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B/EDEKER'S  GUIDE  BOOKS. 

BELGIUM  AND  HOLLAND ,   with  12  Maps  and  20  PlanB. 


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LOWEK  iSWKri.   wxxu  --;,,;:;7^e;.,.nd  76  Vig*>«%^™i 


Sinai,     with  1 6  Maps, 
Edition.    1885. 

PALESTINE  AND 

rama  of  Jerusalen 

THE  TBAVELLEl 


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(:rx.f /^v 


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THE  RHINE. 


MOITET  TABLE. 

(Comp.  p.  xiii.; 
Approximate  Eqaiyalents. 


American 

French 

German 

Austrian 

Money. 

Englisu  juoney. 

Money. 

Money. 

Money. 

Don, 

Cis. 

L. 

8. 

D. 

Fr. 

GU. 

Ji 

Pf- 

Fl. 

Kr. 

— 

1V4 

— 

*/• 

6V4 

5 

— 

1' 

— 

SVa 

—~ 

— 

1V4 

— 

12V2 

— 

10 

— 

— 

5 

— 

—■ 

2V2 

— 

25 

— 

20 

— 

10 

_. 

10 

_ 

— 

5 

— 

50 

— 

40 

— 

20 

— 

127* 

— 

— 

6 

— 

62V, 

— 

50 

— 

25 

— 

20 

— 

— 

10 

i 

— 

80 

— 

40 



25 



1 

1 

25 

1 

— 

— 

50 

__ 

50 

_ 

2 



2 

50 

2 

— 

1 

— 

__ 

75 



3 



3 

75 

3 



1 

50 

1 



4 

__ 

6 

4 

_. 

2 



1 

26 

__ 

5 



6 

S 

5 

— 

2 

50 

1 

50 



6 



7 

50 

6 

— 

3 

— 

1 

75 

__ 

7 



8 

75 

7 

— 

3 

50 

2 



8 



10 

— 

8 

— 

4 

— 

2 

25 



9 



11 

25 

9 

— 

4 

50 

2 

50 

_« 

10 



12 

50 

10 

— 

5 

— 

3 



12 



15 

12 

— 

6 

— 

4 





16 



20 



16 

— 

8 

— 

6 



1 



25 



20 

— 

10 

— 

25 



5 





125 



100 

_ 

50 

— 

125 

— 

25 

— 

— 

625 

— 

500 

250 

THE  RHINE 

FROM 

ROTTEEDAM  TO  CONSTANCE. 


HANDBOOK  FOB  XBAVELLEBS 

BY 

E.  BAEDEKER. 


With  30  Maps  and  22  Plans. 
TENTH  REVISED  EDITION. 


LEIPSIC:  KARL  BAEDEKER. 

1886. 

All  rights  reserved. 


^eo^  1513^.^0^ 


J 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  he  thy  pray  ere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear. 
Where  thon  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 

Chaucbk. 


PEEFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  the  Rhine  is  to 
supply  the  traveller  with  such  information  as  will  render 
him  as  nearly  as  possible  independent  of  hotel-keepers, 
commissionnaires,  and  guides,  and  thus  enable  him  the 
more  thoroughly  to  enjoy  and  appreciate  the  objects  of 
interest  he  meets  with  on  his  tour. 

The  Handbook  is  based  almost  entirely  upon  the  per- 
sonal observation  of  the  Editor,  and  the  country  de- 
scribed has  been  repeatedly  explored  by  him  with  a 
view  to  procure  the  latest  possible  information ;  but ,  as 
changes  are  constantly  taking  place,  he  will  highly  appre- 
ciate any  communications  with  which  travellers  may 
kindly  favour  him,  if  the  result  of  their  own  experience. 
Those  already  received  from  numerous  correspondents, 
which  he  gratefully  acknowledges ,  have  in  many  cases 
proved  most  serviceable. 

The  present  edition,  which  corresponds  with  the  23rd 
in  German  and  the  13th  in  French,  has  been  thoroughly 
revised  and  brought  up  to  date.  For  the  article  on 
Rhenish  Art  the  Editor  is  indebted  to  Professor  A.  Sprtnger 
of  Leipsic. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  on  which  special  care  has 
been  bestowed,  will  often  render  material  service  to  the 
traveller,  and  enable  him  at  a  glance  to  ascertain  his 
bearings  and  select  the  best  routes. 

Time  Tables.  Information  regarding  trains,  steam- 
boats, and  diligences  is  most  trustworthy  when  obtained 
from  local  sources.  The  best  German  publications  of  the 
kind  are  'HendscheVs  Telegraph'    (2  marks) ,    published 


Ti  PREFACE. 

at  Frankfort  on  the  Main,  and  issued  monthly  daring 
the  summer  season,  and  the  'KurshucK  (2  m.),  published 
at  Berlin,  issued  eight  times  a  year. 

Heights  are  given  in  English  feet  (1  Engl.  ft.  = 
0,3048  m^tre  =  0,938  Parisian  ft.  =  0,971  Prussian 
ft.).  Distances  in  English  miles  (except  in  the  case  of 
mountain-excursions,  where  the  time  they  occupy  is  given 
as  more  convenient),  and  the  Populations  in  accor- 
dance with  the  most  recent  census. 

Hotels.  The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  enumerate, 
not  only  the  first-class  hotels ,  but  others  also  of  more 
modest  pretensions,  which  may  be  safely  selected  by  the 
'voyageur  en  gargon* ,  with  little  sacrifice  of  comfort 
and  great  saving  of  expenditure.  Although  changes  fre- 
quently take  place,  and  prices  generally  have  an  upward 
tendency,  the  average  charges  stated  in  the  Handbook 
will  enable  the  traveller  to  form  a  fair  estimate  of  his  pro- 
bable expenditure.  The  value  of  the  asterisks,  which  are 
used  as  marks  of  commendation ,  is  relative  only ;  those 
prefixed  to  town  hotels  and  village  inns  signifying  re- 
spectively that  the  houses  are  good  of  their  kind. 

The  Editor  regrets  that  he  is  unable  to  answer  all 
communications.  To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and 
others  he  begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  deal- 
ing and  courtesy  towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  pass- 
port to  his  commendation ,  and  that  advertisements  of 
every  kind  are  strictly  excluded  from  his  Handbooks. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

I.  Language xiii 

n.  Money.  Travelling  Expenses xiii 

m.  Passports.   Custom  House xiv 

IV.  Railways.    Diligences xiv 

V.  Steamboats.    Fall,  Breadth,  Length,  and  Depth  of 

the  Rhine xt 

YI.  Walking  Excursions xvii 

Vn.  Hotels xvii 

Vni.  Geology  of  the  Rhine xviii 

IX.  Climate.    Grape  Cure xx 

X.  Wines  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle xx 

XI.  Rhenish  Art xxiv 

Route. 

1.  From  Brussels  to  Cologne 1 

Environfl  of  Aix-la-Ghapelle 11 

From  Aix-la-Ghapelle  to  Malmedy 12 

From  Stolberg  to  Jiilich,  Rheydt,  Gladbach,  and  Uorsbach  13 

The  Valley  of  the  Boer.    Ifideggen.    Heimbach    ....  14 

From  Diiren  to  "SexuB  and  to  Jtilich 14 

2.  From  Rotterdam  to  Cologne 16 

Environs  of  Diuseldorf 23 

From  MiiUieim  to  Gladbach  and  Betiaberg 23 

3.  Cologne 24 

4.  From  Cologne  to  Neuss  (Dusseldorfjj  Crefeld,  and  Cleve  .  46 

From  TSexxM  to  Obercassel 47 

From  Oppnm  to  Essen  and  Dortmnnd 47 

From  Qoch  to  Wesel 48 

From  Gleve  to  Elten  and  Zevenaar  and  to  Galcar     ...      49 

5.  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  hy  Gladbach  to  Dusseldorf  ....  50 

SchloBS  Dyck 50 

From  Gladbach  to  Antwerp 51 

6.  From  Gladbach  to  Crefeld,  Ruhiort,  and  Essen 51 

From  Viersen  to  Venlo  and  to  Grefeld  and  Mors      ...  51 

From  Bohrort  to  Oberhansen  and  Sterkrade 52 

7.  From  Cologne  to  Elberfeld  and  Hagen 52 

From  Elberfeld  to  Dusseldorf 53 

From  Hagen  to  Siegen *    .    .    .  54 

From  Letmathe  to  Iserlohn.    Dechenhohle 54 

8.  From  Cologne  to  Frankfort  by  Giessen 55 

From  Siegborg  to  Bunderoth 55 

9.  The  Rhine  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz 57 

Basalt  Quarries  of  Dattenberg  and  the  Minderberg    ...  62 

From  Weuwied  to  Monrepos  and  Altwied 66 

10.  From  Coblenz  to  Cologne.   Railway  Journey 68 

11.  From  Deutz  (Cologne)  to  Obercassel  (Bonn)  and  Ehren- 

breitsteln  (Coblenz) "^ 

From  Engers  to  Hachenburg ♦^ 


Tlli  CONTENTS. 

Boute.  PH!^* 

12.  Bonn 74 

13.  The  Seven  Monntains 79 

14.  VaUey  of  tlie  Ahr 85 

From  Altenahr  to  Adenaa - 89 

15.  From  Andernacli  to  Mayen.    BroUtlial.   Laacher  See  .    .  90 

16.  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreltstein 93 

17.  The  Rhine  from  Coblenz  to  Mayence 101 

The  Dachakopf 105 

From  Braubach  to  Ems  and  to  Welmich 105 

Alte  Burg  near  Boppard.    Fleckertahobe 107 

From  Boppard  to  Brodenbaob  on  tbe  Koaelle 107 

Schweizerthal.  Beicbenberg 110 

The  Steeger-Thal.     From   Bacharach  by   Stromberg  to 

Ereuznach 115 

The    Wisperthal.     From   Lorch   to    Schlangenbad    and 

Schwalbach.    The  Sau^rburg 116 

The  Elisenhohe.    The  Salakopf 121 

Walk  in  the  Bheingau 123 

Eberbach  and  the  Steinberg 125 

Eiedrich.    Grafenberg.     Scharfensteln 126 

18.  The  Niederwald i 127 

From  Biidesheim  to  the  German  l^ational  Uonnment     .  127 

From  Assmannsbanaen  to  t}ie  Kational  Kontunent.    .    .  128 

19.  From  Coblenz  to  Mayence.   Railway  Journey 129 

20.  From  Coblenz  to  Wiesbaden.    Schlangenbad  and  Schwal- 

bach    131 

From  Eltville  to  Schlangenbad  and  Schwalbach     .    -    .  133 

From  Schlangenbad  to  Wiesbaden 184 

From  Schwalbach  to  Wiesbaden 135 

21.  Wiesbaden 135 

22.  Mayence .    .    .    .  1^^ 

23.  From  Bingerbruck  to  Ereuznach,  Saarbrucken,  and  Metz  153 

From  Ereuznach  to  Miinster  am  Stein.    Bhelngrafenstein. 

Gans.    Ebernbnrg.    Bothenfels 156,156 

Altenbaiimburg.    Lemberg.    From  Miinster  am  Stein  to 

Eaiserslautem       157 

Sponheim.    Heisenheim 158 

Dhaun.    Simmern.    Soonwald.  Stein-Eallenfels.  Warten- 

stein , 159 

From  Oberstein  to  Idar 160 

Hnnnenring.  Tholey.  TheSchanmberg.  The  BrennendeBerg  161 

Heights  of  Spicheren 162 

The  Battle  Fields  near  Metz 165 

From  Metz  to  Kancy 167 

From  Metz  to  Lnxembourg  by  Thionville 168 

24.  From  Saarbrilcken  to  Treves  and  Luxembourg  .....  168 

The  Clef.    Castell 168, 169 

From  WasserbilUg  to  Diekirch 175 

From  Luxembourg  to  Trois  Vierges 177 

From  Treves  to  Thionville 177 

25.  The  Moselle  from  Coblenz  to  Treves 178 

Miinster-Maifeld.    Schloss  Eltz 180-181 

From  Piinderich  to  Trarbach-Traben 184 

From  Wengerohr  to  Bemcastel 184 

Eautenbachthal 187 

Tiefenbachthal.    Thron 188 

Mertersdorf.    Griinhaas 189 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Boute.  ^H*^ 

26.  Fiom  Cologne,  to.  Trfeveav    Tlie  Volcanic  Elfel 189 

From  Diiren  to  Easkirchen.    Mtlnstereifel 189 

From  Budkiroben  to  Bonn 190 

From  Call  to  Hellentlial 190 

From  Hillesheim  to  Adenau  and  Daun.    Erenaberg    .    .  191 

From  Gerolstein  to  Priim 192 

Bitburg 193 

27.  FromCoblenztoWetzlar.   Ems  and  the  Valley  of  the  Lahn  199 

Bxcnrsions  from  Ems 308,  208 

Scheid.    Geilnau 205 

From  Dietz  to  ZoUhaus  (and  Schwalbach) 206 

From  Limburg  to  Hadamar;  to  Siershabn 207 

28.  Frankfort 208 

From  Frankfort  to  Mayenee 222 

From  Frankfort  to  ICannheim  by  the  Biedbahn      .     .    .  222 

29.  The  Tannns 22S 

a.'  Tannns  Railway  from  Frankfort  to  Castel  (Mayenee) 

and  Wiesbaden 223 

b.  From  Frankfort  to  Homburg  and  Cronberg 224 

The  Saalburg.    .• 225 

c.  From  Frankfort  to  Soden.    Eonlgstein.    Falkensteln. 
Oreat  Feldherg 226 

d.  From  Frankfort  to  Eppsteln  and  Limbnrg 228 

The  Bossert.    Fischbachthal 229 

30.  From  Frankfort  or  Mayenee  to  Heidelberg  and  Mannheim  229 

From  Darmstadt  to  Worms  and  Mannheim  ......  234 

The  Melibocufl    . 234 

Environs  of  Auerbach  and  Bensheim 285 

From  Bensheim  to  Worms.    Lorsch 236 

31.  TheOdenwald 237 

a.  WeiBtem  Portion.   Felsberg.    Beichenbach.    Linden- 

fels 237 

From  Lindenfele  to  Heppenheim;  to  Weinheim     .    .    .  239 

The  Dromm.    Waldmichelbach.    Schonau 289 

b.  Eastern  Portion,  Odenwald  Railway 239 

From  Belnhelm  to  Lindenfels 240 

From  Michelstadt  to  Beichelsheim 241 

From  Michelstadt  to  Amorbach  and  Miltenberg ....  241 

32.  Heidelberg  and  the  Valley  of  the  Nectar 242 

The  Valley  of  the  Neckar  from  Heidelberg  to  Neckarelz  249 

From  Heidelberg  to  Schwetzingen  and  Speyer 251 

33.  Mannheim  and  Lndwlgshafen 252 

From  Mannheim  to  Carlsmhe 255 

34.  From  Mayenee  to  Lndwigshafen  f Mannheim) »  "Worms    .  255 

35.  From  Bingen  or  Mayenee  by  Alzey  to  Eaiserslautem  or 
Neustadt 260 

The  Donnersberg 261 

From  Monsheim  to  Langmeil     -. 262 

From  Griinstadt  to  Eisenberg .    .    - 262 

Abbey  of  Limbnrg.    Hartenbnrg.   Heidenmaner  ....  263 

36.  Ftom  Ludwigshafen  to  "Welssenburg  and  Strassbnrg    .    .  264 

The.Haar.dt.    From  Neustadt  to  the  Maxbnrg     ....  265 


X  CONTENTS. 

Route. 

Gleisweiler.    Bergzabem 

Geisberg.    Scherhohl.    Wfirth 387 

37.  From  Mannheim  (Ludvjigshafen)  to  Neunkirclien  (8aat- 

brueken) 268 

From  Kaiserslaatem  to  Lanterecken.    Offenbach  am  Olan  269 

From  Landstuhl  to  Eusel 270 

From  Homburg  to  Zweibrucken ;  to  Saarbriicken  \  to  Saar- 

gemund 270 

38.  From  Mannheim  to  Speyer,  and  to  StrasBburg,  vii  Ger- 

mersbeim  and  Lanterbnrg 271 

From  Germersbeim  to  Landau 276 

39.  From  Landan  to  Zweibrucken.  TbeYosges  of  the  Palatinate  276 

40.  Strassbnrg 279 

41..  From  Strassburg  to  Saarbriicken  and  Metz 288 

42.  From  Strassburg  by  Saarburg  to  Metz 289 

From  Zabern  to  Hagenau 290 

From  Saarburg  to  Saargemund  and  IT^ancy 291 

From  Zabern  to  the  N.  Vosges  Mts 291 

43.  From  Strassburg  to  Bale 293 

From  BoUweiler  to  Ensisheim 297 

From  Miilbausen  to  Mfillheim  and  Belfort 298 

From  St.  Ludwig  to  Leopoldsbdhe.    Hunlngen    ....  299 

44.  The  Central  and  Upper  Vosges  Mts 299 

I.  The  Central  Vosges  Mts 300 

a.  From  Strassburg  to  Rotbau  by  Molsheim.    Nideck     .  300 

From  Schirmeck  to  the  Donon 901 

From  Bothau  to  Urbach 301 

b.  From  Zabern  to  Schlettstadt  by  Molsbeim.  "Wangen- 

burg.  Girbaden.  Odilienberg.    Hobwald   ....  302 

Grendelbruch 305 

Environs  of  Hohwald.    The  Hochfeld 308 

II.  The  Upper,  or  High  Vosges  Mts 308 

a.  From  Schlettstadt  to  Marklrch.     Hohenkonigsburg. 

Rappoltsweiler 308 

From  Markirch  to  Rappoltsweiler.    The  Bressoir   .     .     .  309 

From  Rappoltsweiler  to  Reichenweier  and  Kaysersberg    .  312 

b.  The  Weissthal.    The  Weisse  See  and  Schwarze  See. 

Reisberg 312 

From  Kaysersberg  to  Rappoltsweiler  via  Bilstein    .    .    .  313 

c.  From  Colmar  to  Miinster.    The  Schlucht.    Metzeral  315 

From  Turkheim  to  the  DreiiBhren.  Galz.  Hohenlandsberg  315 

From  the  Schlucht  to  the  Hoheneck  and  G^rardmer  .    .  317 

From  Luttenbach  to  the  Eahle  Wasen 318 

From  Metzeral  to  Wildenstein.    The  Rothenbachkopf      .  319 

d.  From  BoUweiler  to  Gebweiler 319 

Murbach  Abbey 319 

6.  From  Miilbausen  to  Wesserling 320 

The  Gebweiler  Belchen 320 

From  Sennheim  to  Hasmunster.    Walsche  Belchen     .    .  322 

45.  From  Heidelberg  to  Baden 322 

From  Bruchsal  to  Germersheim 323 

From  Durlach  to  Pforzheim  and  Wildbad 323 

From  Carlsruhe  to  Landau 330 


CONTENTS.  xi 

Route.  ^H'^* 

46.  Baden  and  Environs 332 

47.  From  Baden  to  Freiburg  and  Bile 341 

Biihlerthal.    Plattig.    Sand.    Herrenwies 841 

Saabach.    Erlenbad.    Brigittexuehloas     .......  842 

From  Appenweler  to  Kehl  and  Straasburg 842 

The  Eaiaerstuhl 344 

Excursions    from    Freiburg.      Gunthersthal ,    Schau-ins- 

Land,  etc 349 

From  Freiburg  to  Golmar 3S0 

48.  TheBUo\iVoTesi(Duchy  of  Baden) 352 

a.  From  Rastatt  to  Gemsbacli  and  AUerheiligen.    Murg- 

thal.   Homisgrinde.   Mummelsee 353 

The  Favorite 354 

From  Gemsbach  to  Herrenalb  and  Wildbad 354 

From  Baden  to  Forbacb  direct 356 

Freudenstadt 356 

b.  Allerbeiligen  and  Biittenstein  WaterfaUs 358 

From  Kappelrodeck  to  AUerheiligen 350 

From  Ottenhofen  to  AUerheiligen  by  the  Edelfrauengrab 

and  the  Blochereck 359 

From  AUerheiligen  to  Bippoldsau  direct 360 

From  AUerheUigen  to  Oppenau  and  to  Sulzbach     .    .     .  360 

c.  Benchthal  Railway.   Knlebis  Baths 360 

The  Schapbachthal.    Antogast 362 

From  Griesbach  to  Bippoldsau 362 

d.  From  Offenburg  to  Constance.  Kinzigtbal.  Bippoldsau  362 

From  Biberach  to  Lahr.    Hohengeroldseck 363 

From  Wolfach  to  Schiltach  and  Alpirsbach 364 

From  Klosterle  to  Freudenstadt      .     .     .    t 364 

From  Homberg  to  Elzach  and  Schramberg 365 

From  Triberg  to  Elzach  by  Schonach 366 

e.  From  Triberg  to  Waldkirch  vi&  Fnrtwangen.    Valleys 

of  Simonswald  and  Elz 369 

From  Furtwangen  to  Waldau 369 

f.  From  Freibnrg  to  Neostadt.    HoUentbal.    Feldberg. 
Schluchsee 371 

From  Zarten  to  Todtnau.    St.  Margen.    Bavennathal  .    .  372 

From  Schluchsee  to  Thiengen 376 

g.  Badenweiler  and  Environs.    Burgeln,  Blauen ....  376 
b.  From  Badenweiler  to  the  Belchen,  and  through  the 

Mflnsterthal  to  Krotzingen 379 

From  Schonau  in  the  Wiesenthal  to  the  Belchen       .    .  380 

From  Staufen  to  Utzenfeld  in  the  Wiesenthal    ....  330 

i.  Wiesenthal,  Wehrathal,  Albthal 381 

From  Todtmoos  to  St.  Blasien 383 

From  Geschwend  in  the  Wiesenthal  to  St.  Blasien     .     .  384 

49.  From  Bale  by  Schaffhausen  to  Constance 385 

From  Thiengen  to  Schluchsee  by  the  Schluchtthal     .    .  £67 

From  Oberlauchringen  to  Weizen 378 

The  Falls  of  the  Rhine 378 

Hohentwiel.    The  Island  of  Reichenau 388 

Index 389 


xll  MAPS  AND  PLANS. 

Xapi. 

1.  The  LowBB  Baim :  EE.  1,  2,  4, 6,  6, 7, 8,  9  j  between  pp.  18,  19. 

2.  The  Ehine  fbom  Bonn  to  CIoblenz:  BB.  '9,  10,  11,  14,  16^  between 

pp.  68,  69. 

3.  The  Sbvbn  Mountains:  E.  13;  between  pp.  78,  79. 

4.  The  BaiNB  pbom    Coblbnz   to   Binobn  :  BB.  16,  17,  19,  30,  23,  27; 

between  pp.  100,  101. 

5.  The  Envibohs  or  Boppabd  :  B.  17 ;  p.  106. 

6.  The  Envibons  of  8t.  Ooab:  B.  17;  p.  107. 

7.  The  Nibdebwald:  B.  18;  p.  123. 

8.  The  W.  Taunus  and  Bheinoau:  BB.  17,19,20;  between  pp.  122,  128. 

9.  The  Envibons  of  Kbbuznach  :  B.  23 ;  p.  164. 

10.  The  Nahethal:  B.  23;  p.  166. 

11.  The  Envibons  of  Mbtz:  B.  28;  p.  163. 

12.  The  Hosblle:  BB.  24,  26;  between  pp.  178,  179. 

13.  The  Volcanic  Eifel:  B.  26;  between  pp.  192,  193. 

14.  The  Envibons  of  Ems:  B.  27;  p.  200. 

16.  The  Vallet  of  the  Lahn:  B.  27;  p.  201. 

16.  The  E.  Taunus:  B.  29;  between  pp.  222,  228. 

17.  The  Bebostbassb  and  Odbnwald:  B.  31;  between  pp.  236,  237. 

18.  The  E.  Odbnwald  :  B.  31b ;  p.  237. 

19.  The  Environs  of  Heidelbebo:  B.  32;  p.  242. 

20.  Map  of  Bhenibh  Hessbn  :  BB.  34^  35 ;  p.  256. 

21.  The  Bhbnish  Palatinate:  BB.  36,  36,  37,  39,  41;  between  pp.  270,  271. 

22.  The  Nobthebn  Yosoes  Mts.  :  BB.  42,  44  I. ;  between  pp.  292,  293. 

23.  The  Central  Vobges  Mts.:  BE.  441.,  4411.;  between  pp.  300,  301. 

24.  The  SouTHBBN  Yosoes  Mts.  :  B.  44 II. ;  between  pp.  314,  315. 

25.  The  Environs  of  Baden  :  B.  46 ;  p.  332. 

26.  The  Black  Fobbst.   Sheet  I.  (Murgthal):    BB.  46,  47,  48  a,  48  b;   be- 

tween pp.  862,  353. 

27.  The  Black  Forest,  Sheet  II.  (Kinzigthal):  BB.  47,  48  c,  48  d;  between 

pp.  362,  363. 

28.  The  Black  Fobbst,  Sheet  III.  (Freiburg,  Triberg,  Donaneschingen) : 

BE.  47,  48d,  48e,  48f ;  between  pp.  370,  371. 

29.  The  Black  Fobest,  Sheet  lY.  (Southern  Valleys):  BB.  48f,  48g,  48h; 

between  pp.  376,  377. 

30.  Bailwat  Map  of  the  Ehine,  after  the  Index. 

Plant  of  Towns. 

Adc-la-Chapellb,  p.  4;  Baden,  p.  833 ;  Bonn,  p.  79 ;  Garlsbure,  p.  324; 
Coblbnz,  with  Environs,  p.  94;  Ck>LMAB,  p.  293;  Cologne,  p.  24;  Dabm- 
stadt,  p.  236;  Dusseldobf,  with  Environs,  p.  19;  Fbankfobt,  with  En- 
virons, p.  208;  Fbeibubo,  p.  344;  Gastlb  op  Heidelbebo,  p.  243:  Luxem- 
boubo,  p.  175;  Mannheim,  p.  252;  Matence,  p.  142;  Mbtz,  p.  162;  Gab- 
dens  OF  Schwetzingen,  p.  252;  Speyeb,  p.  271:  Stbassbubg,  p.  280;  Tr*- 
ves,  p.  174 ;  Wiesbaden,  p.  134 ;  Worms,  p.  257. 


Abbreviations* 

B.  =  room;  L.  =  light;  B.  =  breakfast;  D.  =  dinner;  S.  s=  supper; 
A.  =  attendance.  —  N.  =  north,  northern,  etc.;  S.  =  south,  etc.;  £.  s: 
east,  etc.;  W.  =  west,  etc.  —  r.  =  right;  1.  =  left.  —  M.  s=  English 
mile;  ft.  =  Engl.  foot.  —  Jf^  m.  =  mark;  pf.  =  pfennig. 

The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of  a  place  indicates  its  height 
above  the  sea-level.  The  number  of  miles  placed  before  the  principal 
places  on  railway-routes  and  high-roads  generally  indicates  their  distance 
from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


Asterisks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


INTRODUCrriON. 


A  Blight  acquaintance  with  German  is  indispensable  for  those 
who  desire  to  explore  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  Rhenish 
ProTinces.  Tourists  who  do  not  deviate  from  the  beaten  track  will 
generally  find  English  or  French  spoken  at  the  principal  hotels  and 
the  usual  resorts  of  strangers ;  but  if  they  are  entirely  ignorant  of 
the  langui^e  they  must  be  prepared  occasionally  to  submit  to  the 
extortions  practised  by  porters,  eab-driyers,  and  others  of  a  like 
class,  which  even  the  data  furnished  by  the  Handbook  will  not 
always  enable  them  to  avoid. 

n.  Money.   Travelling  Expenses. 

Monet.  The  German  mark  (Jf,  m.), which  is  nearly  equivalent 
to  the  English  shilling,  is  divided  into  100  pfennigs.  Banknotes 
of  5,  20 ,  and  50  m.  are  issued  by  the  German  Imperial  Bank 
('DeuUeheBeieksbank')^  and  others  of  100,  600,  and  1000 m.  by  the 
Imperial  Bank  and  by  twelve  other  banks  which  possess  the  pri- 
vilege. The  current  gold  coins  are  pieces  of  10  (^KrorW)  and  of 
20  marks  (^DoppeUcrone'J,  the  intrinsic  value  of  which  is  somewhat 
lower  than  that  of  the  English  half-sovereign  and  sovereign  (il. 
being  worth  about  20  m.  43  pf.).  The  paper  currency  is  of  the  same 
value  as  the  precious  metals.  The  silver  coins  are  pieces  of  5,  3 
(the  old  doUar),  2,  1,  1/2  (50  pf.),  and  1/5  mark  (20  pf.).  In  nickel 
there  are  coins  of  10  and  5  pfennigs,  and  in  copper  there  are  pieces 
of  2  and  1  pfennig. 

English  sovereigns  and  banknotes  may  be  exchanged  at  all  the 
principal  towns  in  Germany,  and  Napoleons  are  also  favourably 
received  (20  fr.  =  I69.  s=  16  m.,  and  often  a  few  pfennigs  more). 
Those  who  travel  with  large  sums  should  carry  them  in  the  form  of 
circular  notes  of  6l.  or  10(.,  rather  than  in  banknotes  or  gold,  as 
the  value  of  circular  notes,  if  lost  or  stolen,  is  recoverable. 

TbavbiiLino  Expemsbs.  The  expense  of  a  tour  in  the  Bhenish 
Provinces  depends  of  course  on  a  great  variety  of  circumstances.  Of 
late  years  many  complaints  have  justly  been  made  of  the  exorbitant 
charges  at  some  of  the  Bhenish  hotels ;  but  it  may  be  stated  generally 
that  travelling  in  Germany,  and  even  on  the  Bhine,  is  less  ex- 
pensive ,  and  in  some  respects  more  comfortable ,  than  in  most 
other  countries  in  Europe.    The  pedestrian  of  moderate  require- 


xlv  PASSPORTS. 

ments,  who  has  attained  tolerable  proficiency  in  the  language  and 
avoids  the  beaten  track  as  much  as  possible,  will  have  no  difficulty 
in  limiting  his  expenditure  to  8-10  m.  per  day  ,*  but  those  who  prefer 
driving  to  waUdng,  frequent  the  most  expensive  hotels,  and  require 
the  services -^of  guides  and  commissionnaires,  must  be  prepared  to 
expend  at  least  25-30  m.  dally. 

in.  Passports.    Custom  House. 

Pasbfobtb  are  now  unnecessary  in  Germany,  as  well  as  in 
Austria,  France,  Switzerland,  Belgium,  and  Holland;  but  as  they 
are  occasionally  required  to  prove  the  identity  of  the  traveller, 
to  procure  admission  to  collections,  and  to  obtain  delivery  of 
registered  letters,  persons  who  contemplate  a  prolonged  tour  had 
better  provide  themselves  with  these  easily-obtained  credentials. 
The  following  are  the  principal  passport-agents  in  London :  Lee  and 
Carter,  440  West  Strand;  DorreU  and  Son,  15  Charing  Cross ;  E. 
Stanford,  55  Charing  Cross;  W.  J.  Adams,  59  Fleet  Street. 

CusTOM-HousB  formalities  are  now  almost  everywhere  lenient. 
As  a  rule,  however,  articles  purchased  during  the  journey,  which 
are  not  destined  for  personal  use,  should  be  declared  at  the  frontier. 

IV.  Eailways.  Diligences. 

Railways.  Railway-travelling  is  cheaper  in  Germany  than  in 
other  parts  of  Europe,  Belgium  excepted,  and  the  carriages  are 
generally  clean  and  comfortable.  Those  of  the  second  class,  with 
spring-seats,  are  often  better  than  the  first  in  England.  The  first-class 
carriages,  lined  with  velvet,  and  comparatively  little  used,  are  recom- 
mended to  the  lover  of  fresh  air,  as  he  will  be  more  likely  to  secure  a 
seat  next  the  window.  The  third-class  travelling  community  are 
generally  quiet  and  respectable,  and  the  carriages  tolerably  clean.  On 
a  few  railways  there  is  even  a  fourth  class ,  without  seats.  Smoking 
is  permitted  in  all  the  carriages,  except  those  'Fur  Nicht-Raucher' 
and  the  coupes  for  ladies.  The  average  fares  for  the  different  classes 
are  about  i^/id.,  iy^d.  and  ^/^d.  per  Engl.  M.  respectively.  The 
speed  seldom  exceeds  25  M.  per  hour,  and  the  enormous  traffic 
carried  on  in  some  parts  of  England,  where  hundreds  of  trains  tra- 
verse the  same  line  daily,  is  entirely  unknown.  These  circumstances, 
coupled  with  the  fact  that  the  German  railways  are  generally  well 
organised  and  under  the  immediate  supervision  of  government, 
render  accidents  of  very  rare  occurrence.  On  some  of  the  lines 
20-50  lbs.  of  luggage  are  free,  in  addition  to  smaller  articles 
carried  in  the  hand,  over- weight  being  charged  for  at  moderate 
rates ;  but  on  many  of  the  lines  all  luggage  in  the  van  must  be  paid 
for.  In  all  cases  the  heavier  luggage  must  be  booked,  and  a  ticket 
T>rocured  for  it ;  this  being  done,  the  traveller  need  not  enquire  after 


STEAMBOATS.  xr 

his  'impedlmeiita'  until  he  aniyes  and  presents  his  ticket  at  his  final 
destination  (where  they  will  be  kept  in  safe  custody,  several  days 
usually  gratis).  Where,  however,  a  frontier  has  to  be  crossed,  the  tra- 
veller should  see  his  luggage  cleared  at  the  custom-house  in  person. 
—  Circular  Tickett  for  prolonged  tours  are  issued  at  considerably 
reduced  rates  (see  the  time-tables),  but  are  only  partly  available  for 
the  Rhine  steamers  (see  below).  Ordinary  return-tickets  are  avail- 
able for  one  to  three  days. 

DiLiOENOEB.  The  diligence-communication  in  most  parts  of 
Germany  is  well-organised.  The  average  speed  is  5  Engl.  M.  per 
hour,  the  fare  i^^.  per  M.  'Extra-post'  generally  obtainable  on 
application  at  the  post-offices  :  6d.  per  M.  for  1-2,  i$,  per  M.  for 
3-4  persons.  Carriages  to  be  had  almost  everywhere,  at  tiie  rate  of 
10-15  m.  with  one  horse,  and  12-25  m.  with  a  pair  of  horses,  per  day. 

Y.  Steamboats  on  the  Ehine. 

The  Rhine  is  navigated  by  upwards  of  100  steamboats,  firom 
the  local  vessels  of  fifteen  or  twenty  horse  power  to  the  powerful 
tug-steamers  of  upwards  of  four  hundred.  During  the  last  few 
years  the  average  number  of  steamboat-passengers  has  exceeded 
one  million  annually.  The  following  six  vessels  of  the  united  Co- 
logne and  Dusseldorf  Companies  are  the  best :  'Deutscher  Kaiser', 
'Wllhelm  Kaiser  und  Konig',  'Humboldt',  Trlede',  'Hansa',  and 
'Niederwald',  all  saloon-steamers.  The  first  two  of  these  accom- 
plish the  journey  from  Mayence  to  Cologne  in  7V2  trs.,  and  that 
from  Cologne  to  Mayence  in  12  hrs.,  touching,  in  descending,  at 
Biebrich,  Coblenz,  and  Bonn  only;  in  ascending,  at  Bingen  also. 
On  Sundays  and  holidays  Konigswinter  is  also  called  at.  The 
ordinary  steamers  stop  at  numerous  small  places  where  passengers 
are  landed  in  boats.  The  charge  for  landing  or  embarking  includ- 
ing 100 lbs.  of  luggage  is  10  pf.,  except  at  Walluf  and  Rolandseck. 
The  vessels  of  the  Netherlands  Co.  are  too  uncertain  to  be  depended 
upon  for  short  distances,  but  are  sometimes  preferred  by  travellers 
to  or  from  Rotterdam,  no  change  of  boat  being  necessary. 

The  fares  are  very  moderate,  those  for  voyages  up  stream  being 
one-sixth  less  than  for  those  in  the  reverse  direction.  The  express 
fares  are  somewhat  higher  than  the  ordinary.  The  express-steamers 
carry  saloon-passengers  only.  Each  passenger  is  allowed  lOOlbs.  of 
luggage  free.  Additional  advantages  are  offered  by  the  issue  of  re- 
turn-tickets, one  class  of  which  is  valid  for  a  week,  another  within 
the  current  year.  Railway  Circular  Tickets  (see  above)  are  avail- 
able for  the  steamers  between  Cologne  and  Mayence,  subject  to 
conditions  printed  on  the  tickets.  It  is  important  to  note  that  in 
these  cases  the  train  may  be  exchanged  for  the  steamer,  or  vice 
versa,  only  at  the  terminal  station  in  the  coupon.  Third  class  pass- 
engers may  travel  in  the  saloon  on  paying  the  difference  to  the  con- 
ductor on  board. 


XTl  STEAMBOATS. 

PaasMigera  eab«rking  at  ftaUons  with  pie^s  miuit  take  tiekets  at  the 
office  on  shore,  and  those  embarking  at  other  stations  should  obtain  them 
from  the  condaetor  immediately  on  going  on  board,  as  otherwise  they  may 
be  compelled  to  pay  the  fare  from  the  steamer's  first  point  of  departure. 
The  holder  of  a  ticket  worth  2  m.  and  upwards  is  at  liberty  to  break 
his  journey,  provided  he  signify  his  intention  to  the  conductor  before  the 
tickets  are  collected.  If  the  journey  be  resumed  at  a  station  nearer  the 
passenger's  destination  than  that  at  which  he  disembarked,  the  ticket 
ceases  to  be  valid  for  the  intervening  stations.  Tickets  must  also  be 
stamped  at  the  office  or  by  the  conductor  at  the  station  where  the  journey 
is  resumed*,  and  the  same  regulation  applies  to  return-tickets  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  return-journey. 

In  autumn  the  steamers  are  often  unpunctoal  in  consequence  of  the 
fogs  which  then  prevail.  Should  the  steamer  be  more  than  two  hoi^rs 
behind  time,  the  traveller  is  entitled  to  quit  the  vessel  and  demand  re- 
payment of  the  fare  for  the  portion  of  the  voyage  still  untra versed.  At 
this  season  it  is  sometimes  prudent  to  delay  taking  tiekets  until  the 
steamer  is  actually  in  sight. 

Refreshments  are  provided  on  board  the  steamers,  in  the  style  of  the 
larger  hotels.  Table  d'hote  at  1  o'clock  3  m.,  children  half-price;  ices 
i/g  m.  extra.    The  wines  are  made  a  special  feature  in  the  commissariat. 

Travellers  starting  at  an  early  hour  will  find  breakfast  on  board 
pleasanter  than  a  hurried  meal  before  leaving  their  hotel.  The  waiters 
occasionally  offer  worthless  books ,  maps,  and  panoramas  for  sale  at  ex- 
orbitant prices.  

Tall  of  the  Jlhine. 
Height  above  the  level  of  the  sea  of  — 
Feet. 


The  Toma-8ee,  source  of  the 

Vorder-Ehein <DOW 

The  Eheinwald  Glacier,  cra- 
dle of  the  Hinter-Bhein      .  7268 

The  Lake  of  Constance     .    .  1305 

The  Rhine  at  Bale  ....  803 


Feet. 
The  Rhine  at  Mannheim  .  .  302 
„  „  „  Mayence  .  .  .  272 
„         „       „  Coblenz    ...    190 

„         „       „  Dusseldorf   .     .      87 
nun  Enunerich    .    .      33 


At  Bale 189 

„  Mannheim 429 

„  Mayence 492 

„  Coblenz 399 


Breadth  of  the  Bhine. 
Yards 


Yardfl. 

At  Bonn 682 

„  Cologne 433 

„  Diisseldorf 409 

„  Schenkenschanx  (Dutehfront.),909 


Length  of  the  Rhine.  gngl.  Miles, 

From  Bale  to  Strassburg 8572 

„      Strassburg  to  Mannheim 86V2 

„     Mannheim  to  Mayence 45V3 

„     Mayence  to  Bingen 18 

„     Bingen  to  Coblenz 39V2 

„     Coblenz  to  Cologne 59V2 

„     Cologne  to  Dusseldorf 34V2 

„     Dusseldorf  to  Emmerich 67V2 

„     Emmerich  to  Briel  (German  Ocean) 101 

„     Bale  to  the  German  Ocean 537V2 

Average  Depth  of  the  Bhine.  Feet. 

Between  Bale  and  Strassburg 3^12 

„        Strassburg  and  Mayence 5-26 

„        Mayence  and  Bonn 9-76 

At  the  Lurlei 76 

Between  Bonn  and  Cologne 10-30 

„        Cologne  and  Dusseldorf 12-66 


xvil 

YI.  Walking  Ezcnrsions. 

The  pedestrian  is  unquestionably  the  most  independent  of 
travellers,  and  to  him  alone  the  beautiful  scenery  of  some  of  the 
more  remote  districts  is  accessible.  For  a  short  tour  a  couple  of 
flannel  shirts,  a  pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers,  the  articles 
of  the  toilet,  a  light  waterproof,  and  a  stout  umbrella  will  generally 
be  found  a  sufficient  equipment.  Strong  and  well-tried  boots  are 
essential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be 
avoided;  a  light  pouch  or  game-bag  is  far  less  irksome,  and  its 
position  may  be  shifted  at  pleasure.  A  more  extensive  reserve  of 
clothing  should  not  exceed  the  limits  of  a  small  portmanteau,  which 
can  be  easily  wielded,  and  may  be  forwarded  from  town  to  town 
by  post. 

The  banks  of  the  Rhine  abound  in  charming  scenery ,  which  it 
will  amply  reward  the  pedestrian  to  explore ;  many  districts  replete 
with  both  historical  and  natural  interest  are  described  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages.  The  following  are  especially  recommended  to  the 
notice  of  travellers :  The  Seven  Mts.  (B.  13),  the  Eifel  (R.  26), 
the  banks  of  the  MoseUe  (R.  25),  the  Black  Forest  (B.  4S),  the 
Yosges  (RR.  42,  44),  the  environs  of  Schaffhausen  and  Falls  of  the 
Rhine ,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Constance.  By  consulting  the 
Handbook  the  traveller  will  discover  many  attractive  spots ,  both  in 
these  and  other  districts. 

VII.  HoteU. 

The  flrst-ciass  hotels  in  the  principal  towns  and  watering-places 
throughout  Germany  are  generally  good  and  somewhat  expensive ; 
but  it  frequency  happens  that  in  old-fashioned  hotels  of  unassum- 
ing exterior,  particularly  in  places  off  the  beaten  track ,  the  travel- 
ler finds  more  real  comfort  and  much  lower  charges. 

The  average  charges  in  the  first-class  hotels  are  as  follows: 
bed  tTom^^l^m.,  plain  breakfast  1  m. ,  dinner  3  m.,  table  wine  1  m., 
tea  with  meat  2m.,  attendance  1  m.,  light  1  m.,  boots  extra. 

When  the  traveller  remains  for  a  week  or  more  at  a  hotel,  it  is 
advisable  to  pay ,  or  at  least  call  for  his  account  every  two  or  three 
days,  in  order  that  erroneous  insertions  may  be  detected.  Verbal 
reckonings  are  objectionable ,  except  in  some  of  the  more  remote 
and  primitive  districts  where  bills  are  never  written.  A  waiter^s 
mental  arithmetic  is  faulty ,  and  the  faults  are  seldom  in  favour 
of  the  traveller.  A  favourite  practice  is  to  present  the  bill  at  the 
last  moment,  when  mistakes  or  wilfnl  imposition  cannot  easily 
be  detected  or  rectified.  Those  who  purpose  starting  early  in  the 
morning  will  do  well  to  ask  for  their  bills  on  the  previous  evening. 

En^ish  travellers  often  impose  considerable  trouble  by  ordering 
things  almost  unknown  in  German  usage ;  and  if  ignorance  of  the 
Isnfuage  be  added  to  want  of  conformity  to  the  customs ,  mis- 

Bakdbkbr's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  b 


XTlll  GEOLOGY. 

understandings  and  disputes  are  apt  to  ensue.  The  reader  is  there- 
fore recommended  to  acquire  if  possible  such  a  moderate  proficiency 
in  the  language  as  to  render  him  intelligible  to  the  servants,  and  to 
endeavour  to  adapt  his  requirements  to  the  habits  of  the  country. 
For  this  purpose  Baedeker^s  Manual  of  Conversation  will  be  found 
useful. 

Yalets-de-place  generally  charge  2-3  m.  for  half-a-day,  and 
3*/2-5™.  for  a  whole  day. 

Vm.  Geology  of  the  BJune. 

For  geologiflts  Van  Deeften't  map  of  the  Rhmisk  Pro9ine9  and  Wttt- 
phalia  (Berlin ,  pub.  by  Schropp)  is  of  great  value.  Scale  1 :  80,000.  The 
map  is  divided  into  34  sections,  price  3  m.  each. 

From  Bale  to  Bingen  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is  lake-like  and 
filled  with  comparatively  recent  deposits ,  but  at  the  latter  place  it 
suddenly  changes  its  character,  and  becomes  so  narrow  that  room  is 
barely  left  for  the  high-roads  and  railways  which  traverse  it.  The 
river  flows  swiftly  between  almost  perpendicular  rocks  of  consider- 
able height,  intersected  here  and  there  by  ravines.  Towards  Coblenz 
the  valley  gradually  expands,  the  hills  become  less  abrupt,  and  the 
rocks  disappear.  From  Coblenz  to  Andernach  a  broad  basin  extends 
on  both  sides  of  the  stream,  which  at  the  latter  again  enters  a  rocky 
defile.  Near  Bonn  the  river  gradually  widens,  and  the  'Seven 
Mountains'  appear,  forming  the  grand  closing  scene  of  the  picturesque 
portion  of  the  Rhine.  This  chain  of  mountains,  in  diminished  pro- 
portions, accompanies  the  Rhine  on  its  right  bank  as  far  as  Cologne, 
Diisseldorf,  and  nearly  to  Duishurg.  Below  the  mouth  of  the  Ruhr 
the  country  is  uniformly  flat. 

Between  Bingen  and  Bonn  the  Rhino  Valley  thus  intersects 
an  extensive  range  of  high  land,  consisting  of  upheaved  and 
contorted  strata  of  slatey-grauwaeke  and  quarttoat^rock^  one  of  the 
oldest  formations  in  which  fossils  are  found.  Since  the  fossili- 
ferous  strata  have  been  more  accurately  classified,  the  Rhenish 
slate  mountains  are  believed  to  hold  the  second  place  according 
to  age  among  these  formations,  belonging  to  what  is  termed  by 
Sir  Roderick  Murchison  the  Devonian  System,  while  the  oldest  for- 
mation of  this  class  is  known  as  the  Silurian. 

From  Bingen  to  the  confluence  of  the  Sieg  below  Bonn,  all  the 
strata  intersected  by  the  Rhine  belong  to  the  same  epoch,  as  they 
contain  the  same  organic  remains.  These  strata  consist  of  many 
dlfierent  kinds  of  day-alatey  the  purest  of  which  is  the  roofingslate. 
The  latter  is  yielded  in  great  abundance  by  various  quarries  on  the 
banks  of  the  Rhine,  e.g.  those  of  Cauh  (p.  113),  whence  it  is  sent 
in  all  directions,  even  as  far  as  Switzerland.  The  clay-slate  forms 
transitions  to  the  species  of  sandstone  termed  grauwaeke.  It  is 
generally  fine-grained,  and  in  combination  with  a  quartzose  ce- 
menting matter  passes  into  quartzose-^ock,  which  owing  to  its  in^e- 


GEOLOGY.  ziz 

struotibility  often  aasumas  gvotesque  shapei,  and  between  Bingen 
and  St.  Goar  greatly  enhances  the  beauty  of  the  valley. 

Between  the  period  when  the  Rhine  first  began  to  force 
its  passage  through  the  above -mentioned  mountainous  district, 
and  that  during  which  the  strata  forming  these  highlands  were 
deposited  at  the  bottom  of  what  was  then  an  ocean,  a  vast  in- 
terval must  have  elapsed.  The  formation  of  the  valley  from  Bingen 
to  the  sea  is  more  recent  than  the  deposits  of  the  middle  section 
of  the  Tertiary  system,  the  Meiocene  of  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  in 
which  the  clays  of  Vallendar  and  the  brown  coals  of  the  Wester- 
wald,  the  Seven  Mountains,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Bruhl  are 
found.  Of  equal  age  with  these  tertiary  formations  are  the  basalts 
of  the  Rhine  (p.  62),  which  occur  in  the  most  fantastic  shapes 
near  Linz,  Kaisersberg,  and  Ockenfels,  on  the  Erpeler  Lei,  on  the 
Birgeler  Kopf,  at  Rolandseok  (where  the  railway  has  laid  bare  some 
curiously-situated  columns),  on  the  Oelberg,  Petersberg,  Nonnen- 
stromberg,  and  other  peaks  of  the  Seven  Mts. 

The  Rhine  Valley  is  then,  geologically  considered,  of  very 
recent  formation;  and  the  extinct  volcanoes j  of  which  numerous 
cones  may  be  seen  from  Neuwied,  such  as  the  Camillenberg  and 
the  peaks  of  the  Hummerich  at  Plaidt  and  Kruft,  are  still  more 
recent.  From  the  peak  at  Fornich  a  stream  of  lava ,  whose  large 
perpendicular  columns  may  be  seen  from  the  river  (p.  64),  descends 
into  the  valley.  The  latter  had  nearly  attained  its  present 
depth  when  the  eruption  which  produced  this  stream  of  lava 
took  place.  This  is  proved  by  the  faot,  that  all  the  other  lava- 
streams  near  the  Laacher  See  and  in  the  Elfel  have  been  poured 
into  valleys  already  formed.  The  pumice-stone,  which  extends 
over  the  whole  basin  of  Neuwied  (comp.  pp.  67,  92),  the  only 
place  in  Germany  where  this  volcanic  product  is  found,  must  have 
been  discharged  at  a  still  more  recent  date  than  most  of  the  lava- 
streams. 

In  the  flat  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  are  found  beds 
of  loam  and  rubhUj  at  first  narrow,  and  then  gradually  widen- 
ing, which  have  been  deposited  by  the  stream.  Similar  masses  are 
also  met  with  on  the  terraces  parallel  with  the  river,  at  a  height 
of  400-800  ft.  abov«  the  water.  The  strata  could  only  have  been 
deposited  by  the  agency  of  flowing  water,  and  must  have  been 
deposited  long  before  the  valley  attained  its  present  depth.  These 
terraces  are  distinguishable  by  their  long  horizontal  ridges  from 
the  peaks  formed  by  the  uncovered  slate;  they  prov«  l^at  the 
Rhine  Valley  has  been  gradually  hollowed  out  by  the  action  of 
water,  though  its  rugged  aspect  might  give  rise  to  the  conjecture 
that  it  had  been  the  result  of  some  mighty  convulsion  of  nature. 


IX.  Climate.    Grape  Cnre. 

The  climate  of  the  Talley  of  the  Lower  Rhine  is  influenced  by 
the  proximity  of  the  North  Sea,  which  renders  the  temperature 
remarkably  equable.  To  the  same  influence  are  due  the  mild 
autumns  enjoyed  by  the  districts  on  the  central  Rhine,  where  the 
mean  temperature  is  3-6^  Fahr.  higher  than  that  of  the  correspond- 
ing portions  of  £.  Qermany.  A  tour  In  the  Rhenish  proyinces  is 
therefore  still  enjoyable  at  a  season  when  the  Alps  and  the  moun- 
tainous districts  of  Central  Qermany  are  beginning  to  feel  the 
frosts  of  the  coming  winter.  This  geniality  of  climate  is  also  very 
favourable  to  the  ripening  of  the  grapes;  and  hence  it  is  that 
the  '•Orape  Cure\  a  very  popular  continental  institution,  long 
established  in  the  Southern  Tyrol  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Lake 
of  Geneva,  has  been  introduced  into  the  Rhenish  Provinces  also. 

Grapes  when  eaten  in  moderate  quantity  (1-2  lbs.  daily)  have 
a  soothing  effect  on  the  mucous  membrane,  and  in  conjunction 
with  a  generous  diet  contribute  materially  to  restore  the  strength 
of  convalescents.  When  eaten  in  greater  quantities  (3-8  lbs.  daily), 
the  vegetable  acid  and  salts  produce  an  effect  similar  to  that  of 
mineral  waters  containing  Glauber's  or  common  salt.  The  grapes 
of  the  Rhenish  Palatinate  ('GutedeV  or  'Junker',  and  'Oester- 
reicher'  or  'Sylvaner')  are  large,  thin-skinned,  and  well-flavoured, 
and  hence  this  district  is  the  centre  of  the  'Cure'.  Qleisweiler 
(p.  266)  is  especially  frequented  on  account  of  its  favourable 
situation  and  the  proximity  of  the  vineyards,  in  which  visitors 
may  gather  the  grapes  for  themselves.  The  grapes  of  Durkheim 
(p.  262\  Annweiler  (p.  276),  Edenkoben  (p.  266),  and  Neustadt 
(p.  264)  are  also  in  great  request.  Good  desert -grapes  may, 
however,  be  procured  almost  everywhere  on  the  Rhine,  and  the 
grape-cure  may  be  undergone  at  Honnef,  the  Laubbachj  Boppard^ 
St,  Ooarshausen,  Rudesheim,  Wiesbaden^  BadenweiUr,  and  numer- 
ous other  summer-resorts. 

X.  Wines  of  the  Ehine  and  Moselle. 

Wine  is  a  subject  to  which  those  who  visit  the  land  of  the  grape 
will  naturally  expect  some  allusion,  and  although  it  must  necessa- 
rily be  noticed  but  briefly  in  a  work  like  the  present,  the  following 
remarks  may  prove  acceptable. 

No  error  has  been  more  prevalent  than  that  the  Rhenish  and 
Moselle  wines  possess  an  injurious  acidity.  Liebig  on  the  contrary 
affirms,  not  only  that  the  exquisite  bouquet  of  the  Rhine  wines 
is  owing  to  the  free  acid  which  they  contain,  but  that  some  of 
their  moat  salutary  properties  arise  from  the  tartar  present  in  them. 
To  this  he '  attributes  the  immunity  enjoyed  by  those  who  use 
the  German  wines  from  the  uric  acid  diathesis.    Dr.  Prout,  among 


WINE.  xxl 

many  others  who  have  InTestigated  the  subject,  may  be  mentioned 
as  entertaining  the  same  opinion.  Another  advantage  possessed  by 
Rhenish  wines  is  the  total  absence  of  brandy^  an  ingredient  with 
which  the  wines  of  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Sicily  are  almost  invariably 
fortified,  to  the  utter  destruction  of  their  flavour,  and  the  injury 
of  the  health  of  the  consumer.  The  diseases  which  attack  spirit- 
drinkers,  chiefly  disorders  of  the  liver,  are  commonly  met  with 
amongst  consumers  of  fortified  wines ,  though  such  maladies  rarely 
follow  even  the  intemperate  use  of  pure  wine.  That  the  addition 
of  alcohol  to  wine  is  unnecessary  for  its  preservation  is  proved  by 
the  fact  that  Rhine  wines  often  retain  their  excellence  for  half-a- 
century,  although  they  seldom  contain  more  than  eight  or  nine  per 
cent  of  alcohol.  The  very  property  of  keeping  is  indeed  mainly 
attributable  to  the  fact  that  the  fermentation  is  more  perfect  in 
Rhenish  wines  than  in  those  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  where  fermen- 
tation is  checked  by  the  addition  of  brandy.  With  the  white  wines 
of  France  the  same  object  is  effected  by  sulphuration.  By  these 
processes  the  richness  and  sweetness  of  new  wine  are  artificially  and 
un wholesomely  retained. 

While  the  palm  must  be  yielded  to  France  for  her  red  wines, 
no  country  in  the  world  can  compete  with  the  Rhenish  Provinces  in 
the  vast  variety  and  excellence  of  the  white  wines  which  they 
produce.  On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  from  Mayence  to  Bonn,  a  dis- 
tance of  90  M. ,  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  may  be  seen  in  the 
greatest  possible  perfection. 

The  traveller  who  finds  the  table-wine  of  the  hotels  unpala- 
table, and  whose  eye  wanders  in  bewilderment  over  the  *Wein- 
karte',  is  recommended  to  select  a  bottle  of  still  Hock  or  Moselle 
at  3-4  marks  per  bottle,  at  which  price  the  taste  ought  to  be  grati- 
fied. The  hotel  prices  of  the  high-class  still  wines ,  as  well  as  of 
the  sparkling  wines,  are  often  exorbitant. 

The  Bheingan,  a  district  about  15  M.  in  length,  produces  the 
finest  wines  of  the  Rhine.  Here  is  situated  8ehl088  Johannisberg^ 
a  most  favoured  spot,  yielding  a  wine  almost  without  rival.  As  the 
celebrated  vineyards  do  not  exceed  40  acres  in  area,  little  of  this 
rare  product  falls  to  the  share  of  the  ordinary  public.  Moreover  the 
first  quality  is  only  obtained  in  the  finest  seasons;  the  grapes 
are  selected  with  the  utmost  care  from  the  ripest  bunches,  not 
a  drop  of  the  precious  juice  being  allowed  to  escape;  the  yield, 
under  the  most  favourable  circumstances,  is  therefore  very  limited. 
The  various  qualities  of  this  wine  are  sold  in  the  cask  at  Sohloss 
Johannisberg  by  public  auction.  It  is  remarkable  for  raeiness,  de- 
licacy of  flavour,  and  bouquet,  rather  than  for  strength.  The  other 
wines  of  the  vicinity,  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Johannisberg- 
KUmSj  and  those  yielded  by  the  vineyards  of  Count  Schonborn,  are 
also  highly  esteemed.  There  is  also  'Johannisberger'  produced  from 
the  vineyards  of  the  village  of  that  name,  but  this  is  inferior  to 


xxil  WINE. 

many  of  the  other  products  of  the  Rheingau.  In  this  neighbour- 
hood SLieBudeaheim  and  Oeisenheinif  both  prodnoisg  first-class  wines. 
Bingen  is  a  fayonrable  district  for  strong  wines ;  the  hill  behind  it 
yields  Seharlachberger,  Below  Bingen,  on  the  opposite  bank,  is 
Assmannshauseny  the  red  wine  of  which  holds  a  high  rank  and  in 
good  vintages  vies  with  Burgundy  of  the  best  class,  being  made  from 
the  same  species  of  grape ;  but  unfortunately,  like  the  latter,  it  is 
often  impaired  by  trayelling.  The  Mareobrufin  Tineyard,  between 
Hattenheim  and  Erhachj  produces  a  white  wine  of  exquisite  flavour 
and  bouquet.  The  wines,  however,  which  compete  most  successfully 
with  Johannisberger  and  trench  closely  upon  its  celebrity  are  the 
Steinbergefy  produced  from  the  carefuUy^nltivated  vineyards  on  the 
hill  at  the  back  of  Hattenheim,  and  the  Raumthaler  Berg  (p.  133), 
the  best  vintages  of  which  are  unsurpassed  in  flavour  and  quality. 
Hoehheinij  situated  on  the  Main,  yields  a  wine  of  very  superior 
quality,  and  has  given  the  name  of  ^Hock'  to  the  produce  of  the 
country  generally. 

The  Valley  of  the  Bhine  below  Bingen  produces  many  pleasant 
and  wholesome  wines,  but  inferior  to  the  above.  Those  of  Enge- 
holl,  Steeg^  Oberwesel,  and  Boppard  may  be  mentioned  among  the 
white.  The  Rheinbleicherte  (i.e.  *bleich  rothe',  or  pale  red)  of 
Steegj  Oberwesely  and  BacJuirach,  and  the  light-red  wines  of  Salxig, 
Camp,  Horehheim,  the  Kreutberg  (near  Ehrenbreitstein),  and  Urbar 
are  also  esteemed.  Most  of  the  wines  grown  below  Coblenz  are  light- 
red.   Linz  produces  excellent  Rheinbleicherte. 

Bhenish  Bavaria  yields  a  vast  quantity  of  white  wine,  gener- 
ally known  as  wine  of  the  Haardt,  or  Palatinate.  The  best 
qualities  are  those  of  Ruppertsbetg ,  Deidesheim,  and  For«t,  after 
which  rank  those  of  Vngstein,  Durkkeimj  Wcuihenheim,  and  KorUgs- 
bach.  Good  red  wines  are  grown  &tOimmeldingen  and  Callatadt.  The 
Inferior  wines  of  this  district  usually  have  a  coarse,  earthy  flavour. 

Bheniflh  Hesten  produces  the  excellent  Scharlaehberger  above 
mentioned,  next  to  which  rank  Niersteinery  Oppcnheimer,  LaU' 
benheimer,  and  Bodenheimery  all  pleasant  wines,  but  less  delicate 
than  those  of  the  Rheingau.  Liebfrauenmileh  (*Lait  de  Notre  Dame') 
is  a  good  sound  wine  which  owes  much  of  its  reputation  to  the  su- 
perior wines  sold  under  that  name,  and  to  the  quaintness  of  the 
name  itself.  The  vineyards  where  it  is  grown  (p.  2B0)  are  Incapable 
of  producing  a  tenth  part  of  the  wine  usually  so  called.  The  flat 
vineyards  of  Ingelheim  between  Mayence  and  Bingen  yield  a  good 
light-red  wine. 

The  Kahe  wines,  like  those  of  the  Palatinate,  possess  considerable 
body,  but  little  flavour.  That  of  the  Seharlachberg  near  Bingen  is 
sometimes  classed  as  a  Nahe  wine,  and  is  the  best  of  this  group. 

The  Valley  of  the  Ahr  is  the  most  northern  point  at  which  the 
grape  is  successfully  cultivated.  Its  light  and  wholesome  ^Ahr^ 
Hdeherte^  are  chiefly  consumed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  their  growth. 


WINE.  xxiil 

They  are  strengthening  and  astringent  in  their  properties,  and 
resemble  Burgundy  of  an  inferior  class.  The  best  are  those  of 
Walportlieimj  AhfweUety  and  Bodendorf, 

The  Motelle  wines  are  chiefly  grown  amidst  rugged  and  sterile- 
looking  slate  rocks,  and  owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the  valley  and 
want  of  sun  do  not  so  frequently  arrive  at  perfection  as  those  of  other 
districts.  They  are  distinguished  by  their  delicate,  aromatic  flavour, 
and  are  considered  remarkably  wholesome,  being  frequently  recom- 
mended to  persons  of  sedentary  habits.  The  best  are  Brauneherger 
and  Ohligshergerj  which  possess  a  delicious  'bouquet',  next  to  which 
may  be  placed  the  wines  of  Zeltingerij  Oraach,  Pisport,  and  Orunkaus, 

The  Baar  wines  possess  less  body  than  those  of  the  Moselle,  but 
surpass  them  in  aroma,  and  contain  a  larger  proportion  of  carbonic 
acid  gas.   Scharxhofhergev  is  a  most  excellent  wine  of  this  district. 

Markgr&fler,  the  wine  of  the  Duohy  of  Baden  (Affmthal  red, 
Klingenberg  white),  the  wines  of  ALhum,  the  Heckar  wines,  and 
those  of  the  BergitnuMe  (pp.  234,  236)  are  almost  entirely  con- 
sumed in  their  respective  districts.  The  Traneoiiiaa  wines  which 
grow  on  the  Main  near  Wurzburg  are  abundant,  but  generally  coarse 
and  earthy  in  flavour.  LeiiUn-  Wein  and  SUm-  Wdn  are,  however, 
really  good  varieties. 

The  difference  which  exists  among  the  products  of  the  various 
vintages  on  the  Rhine  presents  a  marked  contrast  to  the  tolerably 
uniform  quality  maintained  by  the  wines  of  Southern  Europe.  The 
best  wine-years  of  the  present  century  on  the  Rhine  have  been  1802, 
1804,  1807,  1811,  1815,  1819,  1822,  1826,  1827,  1834,  1836, 
1842,  1846,  1848,  1867,  1858,  1869,  1861,  1862,  1866,  1869, 
and  1874,  and  good  average  vintages  occurred  iu  1875,  1876,  1878, 
1880,  1881  and  1884.  But  even  in  these  years  the  yield  was  by 
no  means  uniformly  exeeUeut  in  all  parts  of  the  Rhuieland.  The 
climatic  conditions  are  not  the  same  in  all  the  districts ;  different 
years  seem  to  suit  the  different  kinds  of  vine ;  and  the  vineyards 
in  the  most  favoured  positions,  where  the  grapes  ripen  soonebt, 
often  suffer  the  most  severely  from  the  early  spring  firosts.  Thus 
the  yield  of  the  year  1865  was  copious  and  of  good  quality  except 
in  the  Bhelngau,  and  the  same  district  fell  short  In  the  vintage  of 
1875,  which  was  unusually  excellent  at  Deidesheim  and  Forst  in 
the  Palatinate.  Ju  a  full  'autumn',  which  is  hardly  ever  attained,  a 
'morgen'  (about  3/j^  acre)  of  land,  with  3500-4000  vines,  should 
yield  5  *ohm'  (about  150  gallons)  of  wine. 

Sparkling  Wines.  The  effervescing  German  wines  were  first 
manufaotuxed  at  Ea9lkn§tn  (in  1826),  Wursftury,  and  Tfhies,  and 
afterwards  at  Maiyenxie^  Hoohheiniy  BUdeaheim,  Cohlenz^  and  various 
other  places.  These  wines,  generally  known  in  England  as  Sparkling 
Hook  and  Moselle,  are  distinguished  from  the  French  wines  by  the 
predominanee  of  the  flavour  of  the  grape ,  and  when  obtained  ir 


xxi?  RHENIdH  ART. 

uaexoeptionable  quarters,  are  a  light,  pleataut,  and  wholesome 
beverage. 

The  process  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  employed  in  the  pre- 
paration of  Champagne.  The  wine  (which  at  the  outset  is  an  ordinary 
still  wine,  worth  is.  or  1«.  6(f.  per  hottle)  is  bottled  after  the  first 
fermentation  is  over;  and,  by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of 
sugar  and  exposure  to  a  moderately  warm  temperature,  a  second 
fermentation  and  the  generation  of  carbonic  acid  are  produced. 
The  bottles  are  then  placed  on  racks  with  their  corks  downwards, 
where  they  remain  a  month  or  more,  and  are  opened  several  times 
to  allow  the  escape  of  the  sediment.  At  this  stage  of  the  process  as 
many  as  20-25  per  cent  of  the  bottles  usually  burst,  while  the 
contents  of  the  survivors  are  much  diminished.  When  the  wine 
has  thus  been  thoroughly  clarified,  the  bottles  are  filled  up,  a  small 
quantity  of  syrup  (cognac  and  sugar)  is  added  to  give  the  requisite 
sweetness  and  body,  and  the  final  corking  then  takes  place.  The 
sparkling  wine  thus  laboriously  prepared  for  the  market  is  worth 
more  than  double  the  original  still  wine  from  which  it  is  manu- 
factured. The  inferior  qualities  are  generally  the  most  effervescent. 

The  traveller  is  cautioned  against  dealing  with  any  but  the  most 
respectable  wine^merchants ,  and  should  remember  that  excellence 
of  quality  is  quite  incompatible  with  lowness  of  price.  As  a  pleasant 
and  wholesome  summer  beverage  the  Rhenish  wines  of  the  second 
and  third  class  may  be  imported  at  a  moderate  price,  the  duty 
and  carriage  amounting  to  4-5s.  per  dozen ;  but  the  higher  class  of 
Rhine'Wine,  of  which  Marcobrunner  may  be  taken  as  a  sample, 
cannot  be  drunk  in  England  under  six  or  seven  shillings  a  bottle. 

XI.   EhenishArt. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  we  find  that  several  different  strata 
of  civilisation ,  if  we  may  use  the  expression ,  had  deposited  them- 
selves ere  the  rest  of  Germany  had  abandoned  its  primitive  forest 
life.  The  lowest  of  these  strata,  were  a  section  of  them  exhibited 
in  geological  fashion,  would  show  an  ante-Roman  period,  when  the 
natives  carried  on  a  busy  trade  with  the  Mediterranean  seaports  and 
with  Etruria.  After  Caesar's  campaigns  a  new  stratum  was  gradually 
formed  by  the  occupation  of  the  country  by  Roman  military  colo- 
nists. This  stratum  was  afterwards  sadly  contorted  and  broken  by 
the  storms  of  the  barbarian  migrations ,  and  was  at  length  almost 
entirely  covered  by  that  of  the  Franconian-Christian  period,  which 
began  in  the  7th  century. 

On  Rhenish  soil  antiquarians  wUl  find  frequent  opportunities 
of  tracing  back  the  history  of  human  culture  to  its  earliest  begin- 
nings, while  the  Roman  relics  are  so  numerous  and  important  as  to 
arrest  the  eye  of  even  the  superficial  observer.  The  Peutin^er 
Tablet  J   the  medieval  copy  of  a  Roman  map,    now  preserved  at 


RHBNI8H  ART.  xxt 

YioDDa,  shows  the  princip&l  towns  on  the  Rhine  and  also  on  the 
tribataiies  of  its  left  side,  together  with  the  roads  connecting  them, 
and  even  the  haths  and  other  public-bnildings  with  wUch  they 
were  embellished.  The  Roman  colonies  on  the  Rhine,  being  chiefly 
the  headquarters  of  the  different  legions ,  always  presented  a  mili- 
tary character.  Most  of  the  existing  monuments  are  accordingly 
TOtiye  stones  and  tombstones  of  soldiers.  The  artistic  forms  are, 
as  a  rule ,  somewhat  primitive ,  while  the  subjects  are  frequently 
borrowed  from  the  Oriental  worship  of  Mithras.  We  also  find  that 
in  some  cases  Gallic  deities  have  been  Romanised.  The  principal 
collections  of  Roman  antiquities  are  at  the  university  of  Bonn  and 
at  Cologne,  MayeneCy  and  Trhfcs.  At  Trdves ,  moreover ,  we  obtain 
an  admirable  idea  of  the  character  of  a  very  important  Roman  pro- 
vincial town. 

Trhfe8j  the  capital  of  Germania  Inferior ,  and  for  a  considerable 
time  an  imperial  residence ,  did  not  merely  possess  buUdings  of 
practical  utility  like  most  of  the  other  colonies,  but  was  also  embel- 
lished with  some  of  the  noblest  decorative  Roman  structures  ever 
erected  north  of  the  Alps.  On  the  banks  of  the  Moselle  also,  outside 
the  town,  rose  along  seriesof  villas,  many  of  which  wrare  richly  de- 
corated with  mosaics.  Before  the  decline  of  the  Roman  supremacy 
Ghbiscianitt  established  itself  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  but 
no  churches  of  the  earliest  Christian  epoch  are  now  extant.  The 
only  relies  of  that  period  are  the  nucleus  of  the  oathedr&l  of  Treves, 
a  number  of  tombstones  at  Trdves ,  and  several  monumental  in- 
scriptions, such  as  that  in  the  porch  of  St.  Gereon  at  Cologne. 

In  consequence  of  the  barbarian  migrations,  the  Roman-Christian 
culture  was  afterwards  almost  completely  buried  beneath  a  new 
stratum  of  German  paganism,  and  the  vast  valley  of  the  Rhine 
relapsed  into  its  primitive  rudeness,  although  at  Cologne  and  Treves 
the  arts  were  not  entirely  extinct.  The  Austrasian  princes,  however, 
were  munificent  patrons  of  the  church,  and  the  Bishops  of  Treves 
and  Cologne  (^Niceihu  and  Chafentmw,  about  the  middle  of  the  6th 
cent.)  distinguished  themselves  by  their  zeal  for  church-building. 

The  artistic  efforts  of  the  Merovingian  period,  of  which  the 
Cathedral  at  Trhvet  and  the  church  of  SL  Gereon  at  Cologne  are 
almost  the  only  authentic  specimens,  appear  to  have  been  very 
insignificant  compared  with  those  of  OhaxUmmgn»*B  reign  (768- 
814).  In  the  prosecution  of  his  numerous  undertakings  the  great 
emperor  was  not  merely  stimulated  by  his  zeal  for  the  promotion  of 
art ,  but  by  his  ardent  desire  to  revive  the  ancient  glory  of  the 
Roman  empire  and  to  invest  his  capital  with  all  the  splendour  of 
the  anoient  imperial  residences ,  and  particularly  that  of  Ravenna. 
The  Carlovingian  art  was  entirely  centred  around  the  court  of  the 
emperor,  and  he  was  personally  attended  by  a  circle  of  scholars 
called  his  academy.  Among  the  members  of  the  academy  was 
Eihkard ,  who  in  consequence  of  his  surname  Berzaleel  has  been 


xXTl  RHENISH  ART. 

Buppo«ed  to  have  been  familiw  with  art ,  but  of  whose  laboni s  in 
that  sphere  nothing  certain  is  known.  To  him  is  attribatod  the 
building  of  the  Palace  Chapel  at  Aix-la-CkapelU  (now  the  Cathe- 
dral'),  which  is  still  in  eomparatiyely  good  preaervatlon.  It  is 
obviously  a  copy  of  the  court-ehapel  at  Ravenna  (S.  yital«),  but 
has  been  more  judiciously  and  articulately  designed,  and  has  in  its 
turn  served  as  a  model  for  later  edifices,  for  which  either  its  ground- 
plan  (as  at  Ottmarsheim  in  Alsace),  or  its  double  row  of  columns  in 
the  interior  of  the  rotunda  (as  in  the  case  of  8i.  Maria  im  Capitol 
at  Cologne  and  the  Munster  at  Essen),  has  been  borrowed. 

The  magnificence  of  the  palaces  which  the  great  emperor  pos- 
esssed  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  was  a  fayourite  theme  with  the 
poets  and  prose-writers  of  the  day.  According  to  their  accounts  the 
Palace  at  Ingelheim  was  not  inferior  in  splendour  to  that  of  Aix-la- 
Ghapelle  itself ,  but  of  that  edifice  there  is  now  no  trace  beyond  a 
few  fragments  of  walls  and  of  columns  which  have  been  transferred 
to  other  buildings.  —  During  the  later  Oarlovingian  period  the 
Rhineland  again  suffered  severely  from  an  irruption  of  barbarians. 
At  this  period  the  Normans  took  possession  of  the  banks  of  the 
river  and  penetrated  into  its  side- valleys ;  but  civilisation  was  now 
too  far  advanced  to  be  seriously  retarded  by  this  catastrophe. 

Endowed  with  a  rich  art -heritage  handed  down  by  antiquity, 
the  Rhenish-Franconian  tribes  gradually  overspread  the  country 
after  the  middle  of  the  10th  cent. ,  from  which  period  down  to  the 
Reformation  the  development  of  Rhenish  art  is  traceable  without 
interruption. 

In  the  Eably  MrDDLB  Agbs  (10th-12th  cent.)  Rhenish  art 
differed  materially  from  that  of  most  other  parts  of  Germany  in 
being  the  product  of  an  already  cultivated  soil,  where  ancient 
models  were  abundant ,  while  in  these  other  districts  it  was  the 
growth  of  a  soil  previously  untilled.  On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine 
were  preserved  fragments  of  Roman  and  early  Christian  edifices ; 
there  the  eye  was  familiar  vdth  architectural  forms  and  mouldings ; 
in  the  Rhenish  towns  were  always  to  be  found  artificers  possessed 
of  considerable  manual  skill ;  and  owing  to  the  constant  com- 
munication kept  up  with  foreign  places  skilled  labour  could  always 
be  readily  imported  when  necessary.  Rhenish  art  was  thus  matured 
considerably  earlier  than  that  of  Lower  Saxony  and  Swabia.  At 
the  same  time  the  features  common  to  the  whole  of  early  mediaeval 
art  in  the  west  recur  in  that  of  the  Rhine  also.  The  forms  of 
worship  having  been  well  defined  in  the  early  Christian  period, 
the  churches  all  present  a  certain  uniformity  of  appearance.  Like 
the  early  Christian  basilicas,  the  Rhenish  churches  of  the  10th- 
12th  cent,  are  of  an  elongated  form ;  they  possess  aisles  which  are 
lower  and  narrower  than  the  nave ;  the  altar  is  placed  at  the  round- 
ed extremity  of  the  nave;  and  on  the  whole  the  basilica  type  is 
r)reserved  throughout. 


RHENISH  ART.  xxtU 

The  Rhenisb  edlflces  also  possess  the  characteristics  of  the 
BoBumMque  Style,  which  are  common  to  the  great  majority  of 
works  of  the  10th-12th  centaries.  In  this  style  the  pillars  and 
columns  are  connected  by  means  of  round  arches,  the  doors  and 
windows  also  terminate  in  round  arches ,  and  the  naTos  and  aisles 
are  either  covered  with  flat  roofs  or  with  groined  vaulting  of  round- 
ed form.  The  Cubieal  Capital ,  which  was  probably  invented  by 
mediasval  architects  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  harmonious  con- 
necting link  between  the  column  and  the  arch  above ,  is  also  used 
in  the  Rhineland ,  and  the  copings  and  mouldings  of  the  Rhenish 
buildings  are  the  same  as  those  employed  in  the  contemporaneous 
edlflces  of  Western  Europe.  The  Rhenish  architecture,  however,  oc- 
cupies an  independent  position  of  its  own  withfn  the  Romanesque 
group.  The  character  of  the  building-material  (red  sandstone  or 
tufa) ,  local  traditions ,  and  the  prevalent  taste  of  the  period  all 
combine  to  impart  to  the  Rhenish  buildings  a  distinctive  character 
which  seldom  or  never  recurs  in  other  countries.  At  an  eariy  period 
the  use  of  alternate  courses  of  different  colours  came  into  vogue. 
Thus  we  flnd  arches  faced  with  stone  alternating  with  light-coloured 
brick ,  the  latter  material  having  been  taken  from  Roman  ruins ; 
and  when  the  architects  had  exhausted  their  supply  of  bricks ,  the 
art  of  making  which  was  unknown  in  Germany  in  the  early  middle 
ages ,  they  produced  the  same  effect  by  the  use  of  dark  and  light 
coloured  stones.  The  copings  on  pillars  and  walls  were  generally 
copied  from  Roman  models ,  and  the  ancient  Corinthian  Capitals, 
formed  of  a  wreath  of  leaves ,  were  copied  with  varying  success. 
The  most  curious  instance  of  this  is  afforded  by  the /uftifUM-JTircfte 
at  Hochst,  the  columns  of  which,  though  executed  in  the  11th 
cent.,  look  as  if  they  had  been  borrowed  firom  some  ancient  edifice. 
The  long-established  practice  of  art,  and  the  wealth  which  the 
Rhenish  towns  succeeded  in  amassing  at  an  early  period,  enabled 
them  gradually  to  extend  the  dimensions  of  their  churches ,  to 
develop  the  construction  of  vaulting  earlier  than  elsewhere ,  and 
to  impart  to  their  buildings  a  picturesque  richness  of  efflsct.  — 
The  same  conditions  were  likewise  favourable  to  the  development 
of  the  Goldsmith's  Abt,  and  that  of  Enambl  Painting.  The 
Rhinelanders  also  attained  considerable  proficiency  in  Mvsal 
Paihtiwo  at  an  early  period ,  but  for  the  plastic  art  they  displayed 
less  aptitude. 

As  early  as  the  11th  cent,  the  practice  of  art  and  of  artistic 
handicrafts  seems  to  have  become  naturalised  in  the  Rhenish  towns 
and  in  those  of  Lorraine.  In  all  the  larger  towns  extensive  building 
operations  were  undertaken ,  and  at  the  same  time  a  number  of 
handsome  abbey-churches  sprang  up.  At  ififtraM5ur^  a  cathedral  was 
erected  by  Bishop  Werner;  at  Cologne  the  archbishops  Heribert  and 
Anno  exhibited  much  zeal  for  church-building ;  and  at  Trhves  the 
cathedral  was  extended  by  Poppo.     The  grandest  monuments  of 


xxTiU  RHENISH  ART. 

(German  medlsByal  art ,  however ,  are  the  three  Obmtral  Rbbnish 
Cathedrals  of  Spires,  Mayenety  and  Worms  j  examples  of  the 
golden  prime  of  a  style  which  hegan  and  also  ended  earlier  here 
than  in  other  northern  districts.  It  was  not  till  the  Gothic  period 
that  France  and  England  fully  realised  their  architectural  ideals, 
while  the  independent  exertions  of  German  masters  had  already 
culminated  in  their  Romanesque  cathedrals.  It  has  frequently 
been  asserted  that  these  cathedrals  originally  possessed  flat  roofs 
only ,  and  were  not  covered  with  vaulting  till  the  12th  cent. ;  but 
it  is  at  least  probable  in  the  case  of  the  cathedral  of  Spires  that  it 
was  completely  vaulted  in  during  the  11th  cent. ,  to  which  period 
its  huge  crypt  and  massive  articulation  undoubtedly  belong.  The 
charming  Abbey  Church  of  Loach  proves  that  vaulted  churehes  were 
easily  and  skilfully  constructed  in  the  first  half  of  the  12th  cent., 
notwithstanding  the  novelty  of  the  style.  While  the  pillars  of  this 
church  are  of  uniform  pattern  and  are  placed  at  considerable  inter- 
vals, those  of  the  Central  Rhenish  cathedrals  are  placed  much 
closer  together,  and  those  which  bear  the  vaulting  are  differently 
shaped  from  those  supporting  the  arcades. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  for  a  considerable  part 
of  the  13th,  CoLOONB  was  the  chief  cradle  of  Rhenish  art.  The  sa^ 
credness  of  the  city  as  the  custodian  of  the  highly  revered  relics  of 
the  Magi,  combined  with  the  wealth  and  the  poliUoal  power  of  its 
enterprising  citizens,  not  only  led  to  the  rebuilding  of  all  the  prin- 
cipal churches  at  this  period,  but  were  conducive  to  the  general  pro- 
gress of  architecture,  and  contributed  to  impart  a  rich  and  pictur- 
esque decorative  character  to  the  city  itself.  The  architects  do  not 
seem  to  have  aimed  at  grandeur  of  dimensions.  The  naves  of  the 
churiches  are  usually  small  and  insignificant ,  but  the  builders  ex- 
pended their  utmost  skill  on  the  embellishment  of  the  choirs.  The 
apse,  in  combination  with  the  rounded  transepts ,  was  regarded  as 
the  nucleus  of  the  church ,  the  other  distinctive  features  of  which 
consisted  of  the  gable  of  the  choir,  the  dome,  and  the  towers.  As  an 
example  of  the  picturesque  effect  of  this  arrangement  we  may  men- 
tion the  Church  of  the  Apostles  at  Cologne  when  viewed  from  the 
Neumarkt.  At  the  same  time  variety  of  ornament ,  richness  of  ar- 
ticulation, and  pleasing  effects  of  colour  were  also  studied.  Immed- 
iately under  the  roof  runs  a  gallery ,  which  is  of  some  structural 
importance  inasmuch  as  it  lessens  the  dead  weight  of  the  wall,  but 
is  also  effective  in  a  decorative  point  of  view  as  the  small  columns 
stand  out  in  strong  contrast  to  the  dark  background.  Generally, 
indeed,  the  Rhenish  masters  appear  to  have  devoted  much  attention 
to  such  effects  of  light  and  shade.  Under  the  gallery  runs  a  frieze 
consisting  of  dark  slabs  framed  with  light-coloured  stone ;  the  col- 
umns and  half-columns  are  of  a  different  material  firom  the  walls ; 
and  even  the  wall-pillars  are  composed  of  differently-coloured  stones. 
In  keeping  with  this  picturesque  character  Is  the  richness  of  the 


RHENISH  ART.  xxlx 

ornamentation.  The  architects  were  not  satisfled  with  straight  and 
simple  lines.  Their  windows  are  either  round  or  fan-shaped ,  and 
they  are  disposed  in  gronps  or  enclosed  within  a  pointed  arch.  The 
portals  consist  of  archways  resting  on  several  columns ;  the  space 
above  the  doors  is  filled  with  sculpture ;  and  the  facade  is  enlivened 
with  narrow  pillars  and  entwined  arches.  Buildings  of  this  char- 
acter, which  are  typical  of  the  Rhineland,  and  occur  in  almost  every 
town  of  any  importance,  are  usually  described  as  belonging  to  the 
Transitional  8ttlb,  as  if  the  forms  recurring  in  them  were  iden- 
tical with  those  which  pave  the  way  for  the  Gtothic.  The  term, 
however,  is  entirely  misapplied,  as  it  is  impossible  in  the  rich  and 
handsome  Rhenish  churches  of  the  12th  and  beginning  of  the  13th 
cent,  to  discover  the  slightest  germ  of  the  Gothic  style.  The  style 
may,  however,  be  appropriately  characterised  as  the  final  and  most 
ornate  manifestation  of  Romanesque  architecture,  a  definition  which 
is  borne  out  by  the  general  tendencies  of  Rhenish  art.  As  an  auxil- 
iary of  this  style  we  may  now  mention  the  art  of  Mu&ai<  Painting, 
which  was  developed  at  an  unusually  early  period.  Most  of  these 
paintings  were  unfortunately  covered  with  whitewash  at  a  later  pe- 
riod, but  those  still  existing  (at  Sehwarz-Bhemdorf,  opposite  Bonn, 
the  paintings  of  which  resemble  a  symbolic  poem,  at  BrauweUer 
near  Cologne,  in  8t.  Maria  im  Capitol  at  Cologne,  etc.)  exhibit  a 
rich  and  thoughtful  style  of  composition,  and  show  that  the  painters 
were  skilled  in  drawing  and  even  in  the  delineation  of  complicated 
action.  We  cannot  with  any  certainty  judge  of  the  colouring ,  but 
we  at  least  possess  sufficient  materials  to  warrant  the  inference  that 
the  art  of  wall-painting  was  industriously  practised  on  the  banks  of 
the  Rhine  as  early  as  the  second  half  of  the  12th  century. 

This  prevalent  branch  of  the  Romanesque  style,  with  its  highly 
developed  ornamentation,  was  not  hastily  abandoned  by  the  Rhenish 
masters,  and  it  was  not  till  about  the  year  1250  that  the  Gothie 
Stylet  introduced  from  France,  was  completely  nationalised  in  this 
part  of  Germany.  The  precise  manner  in  which  the  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, with  its  spirited  flying  buttresses,  lofty  vaulting,  and  other 
members  relieving  the  monotony  of  the  walls ,  was  introduced  into 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is  unknown ;  but  it  was  probably  adopted 
simultaneously  at  several  different  points.  At  Cologne  we  observe 
in  the  church  of  St.  Oereon  an  attempt  to  apply  the  new  preoepts  to 
the  old  forms,  and  in  the  church  of  the  Mifkoritea  we  have  a  some- 
what plain  example  of  Gothic  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  13th 
century.  In  the  Liebfrauenkirche  at  Trhv€$  the  Gothie  forms  were 
successfully  adapted  at  an  early  period  to  an  unusual  ground-plan. 
The  Cistercian  Church  at  Marienstait  in  Nassau  is  a  fine  example  of 
the  early  Gothic  style,  destitute  as  yet  of  all  ornamentation,  and  to 
the  same  style  belong  the  church  of  Bufach  in  Alsace  and  the  west- 
ern parts  of  8t,  Thomas  at  Strassburg.  In  the  second  half  of  the 
13th  cent,  began  the  construction  of  the  great  Gothic  Cathbdbals. 


XXX  RHENISU  ABT. 

Those  of  Cologne  and  Met%  were  designed  entirely  in  tlie  Qothic 
style,  while  at  Strasaburg  and  Freiburg  the  earlier  Romanesque  be- 
ginnings were  adapted  to  the  new  Gothic  work.  Goethe  has  con- 
tributed much  to  immortalise  the  name  of  Enoin  of  Steinbachj  who 
is  usually  described  as  the  originator  of  the  cathedral  of  Strassburg, 
but  that  master's  actual  share  of  the  work  seems  to  have  been  limit- 
ed to  the  facade  and  the  raising  of  the  nave  and  aisles ,  including 
the  disposition  of  the  windows.  The  masters  of  the  Strassburg  as 
well  as  of  the  Cologne  cathedral  must  have  been  thoroughly  con- 
versant with  the  details  of  French  Gothic,  but  they  were  very  far 
from  being  mere  mechanical  copyists.  The  facade  at  Cologne  and 
the  tower  at  Strassburg  are  entirely  emanations  of  German  imagi- 
nation. In  order,  howeyer,  to  convince  himself  of  the  independence 
of  the  German  masters  of  the  Gothic  style  the  traveller  must  not 
confine  his  attention  to  the  great  cathedrals.  Among  the  Sm ali.eb 
Gothic  Chubchbs  he  will  discover  frequent  proofs  of  originality 
and  not  a  few  gems  of  architecture.  Among  these  smaller  churches 
we  may  mention  the  grave  and  dignified  Abbey  Church  of  AUenberg, 
near  Cologne,  and  the  ColUgiate  Church  of  Xanten^  erected  under 
the  influence  of  Cologne  masters ;  the  superb  Church  of  St.  Cathe- 
rine  at  Oppenheim  and  the  ponderous  Cathedral  of  Frarikfort  on  the 
Central  Rhine ;  and  lastiy ,  in  Alsace ,  the  Church  of  8t.  George  at 
Schlettstadtj  the  Church  of  88,  Peter  and  Paul  at  Wemenbttrgj  the 
church  of  Nieder-Haslach  j  and  that  of  Thanny  with  its  graceful 
tower.  The  numerous  churches  of  the  Mendicant  and  Dominican 
orders,  some  of  which  have  nave  and  aisles  of  equal  height,  are  gen- 
erally too  plain  and  monotonous  to  arouse  much  general  interest. 

The  highest  e£fortg  of  the  Gothic  architects  in  this  part  of  Ger- 
many were  devoted  to  the  building  of  churches ,  but  the  Rhenish 
districts  also  contain  Sboulab  Edificbs  ,  including  castles ,  town- 
halls  ,  guild-houses ,  and  private  mansions ,  which  present  Gothic 
forms  or  at  least  Gothic  characteristics. 

The  eye,  however,  is  less  frequently  struck  by  buildings  of  this 
class  than  by  the  churches,  partly  because  well-preserved  examples 
are  now  comparatively  rare,  and  partly  because  in  secular  archi- 
tecture generally  there  is  usually  less  room  for  marked  changes  of 
style.  Throughout  the  whole  of  the  middle  ages  the  dwelling-houses, 
for  example,  were  constructed  of  timber,  and  the  character  of  their 
ornamentation  was  rather  determined  by  the  nature  of  the  material 
than  by  the  fashion  of  the  day.  Even  in  the  case  of  the  stone 
houses  the  projecting  upper  stories  frequently  recall  the  style  of 
their  wooden  predecessors.  The  architectural  character  of  the 
palaces,  chateaux,  and  castles,  on  the  other  hand ,  was  necessarily 
determined  by  military  considerations.  As  the  requirements  of  both 
defensive  and  offensive  operations  were  almost  equally  important 
during  the  11th  cent,  and  again  during  the  13th,  the  chateaux  and 
castles  retained  the  same  forms  for  several  centuries.     Of  Barba- 


RHBNISH  ABT.  xxxl 

roua*8  residence  at  Qelnkausinf  an  imperial  palace  of  the  Roman- 
esque period,  there  still  exist  considerable  ruins.  The  palace  of  the 
same  mnperor  at  Hagenau  (1157)  was  entirely  destroyed  during 
the  Thirty  Years'  War.  Among  the  medieval  Castlbs  those  of 
Alsace  are  very  numerous  and  important.  The  most  considerable 
are  the  three  Ca$tle8  of  Raf^polUweiUr,  that  of  Hoh'Barr  near  Sa- 
yeme  (1170),  the  Hohen^Konigtburg,  the  Woienbuf^,  near  Mieder- 
bronn,  and  the  Lichienberg  near  Neuweiler,  the  last  three  belonging 
to  the  Gothic  period.  Most  of  the  hills  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine 
and  its  tributaries  are  also  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  medieval 
castles.  In  most  cases  the  pinnacled  Btrgfried,  or  Donjon ,  which 
was  used  both  for  purposes  of  attack  and  defence,  is  stUl  standing ; 
remains  of  the  Palace^  or  dwelling-house,  are  also  frequently  pre- 
served ;  and  in  many  cases  the  outworks,  gateways,  and  towers  by 
which  the  approach  to  the  castle  was  protected  are  stiU  traceable. 
These  ruins,  however,  which  impart  so  picturesque  a  charm  to  the 
scenery  of  the  Rhine,  rarely  possess  much  artistic  value.  The  most 
interesting  of  the  Rhenish  castles  is  that  of  Beiehenberg,  near  St. 
Goarshausen,  vrith  its  three  stories  borne  by  columns. 

The  Gothic  architecture  is  also  notable  for  the  richness  of  its 
PLA.8TI0  Obnamsntation.  The  portals  and  the  various  niches 
and  canopies  are  generally  fUled  with  statues,  and  the  gables  and 
other  parts  of  the  building  adorned  with  relieib.  The  finest  speci- 
mens of  Gothic  statuary  are  to  be  seen  on  the  PortaU  of  the  Litb^ 
frauenkifehe  at  Trhves  and  the  Cathedrals  of  StroMburg  and  fVei- 
burg.  The  Staiues  of  the  AposUes  in  the  choir  of  the  Cologne  CiUhe- 
drci  also  afford  evidence  that  the  Gothic  sculpture  was  sometimes 
richly  coloured.  The  same  cathedral  also  contains  the  Monument 
of  AnMUhop  Conrad  v.  Soehatadeny  the  finest  specimen  of  bronze 
statuary  of  the  Gothic  period.  The  numerous  tombstones  of  that 
period  must  also  be  examined  by  the  student  of  the  progress  of 
Gothic  sculpture,  such  as  those  of  Archbi^top  Siegfried,  Peter  AspeUf 
and  Jokann  von  Ncuaau,  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mayenoe,  and  those  of 
OwUher  von  Sehwarsburg  and  Hohhauten  and  hU  Wife  in  the  Ca- 
ti^edral  of  Frankfort.  The  best  examples  of  late-Gothic  sculpture, 
which  afterwards  degenerated  into  a  mere  handicraft,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  altars  of  carved  wood. 

Throughout  the  middle  ages,  however,  Rhenish  artists  evinc- 
ed mere  aptitude  for  the  art  of  Paintiko  than  for  that  of  sculpture. 
The  stained  glass  at  8tra8sburg,  Cologne,  and  Oppenheim,  and  the 
remains  of  14th  cent,  mural  paintings  at  Cologne  are  not  less  val- 
uable than  the  easel-pictures  of  the  15th  cent,  which  are  still  pre- 
served. At  this  period,  as  in  the  12th  cent.,  Ck>logne  continued  to 
be  the  cradle  of  Rhenish  art.  The  Cologmb  School  of  Paintimo 
was  the  first  of  those  which  attained  to  any  celebrity  on  German 
soil.  The  earliest  master  of  the  school  known  to  us  by  name  is 
MeUUr  Wilhelm,  who  flourished  at  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.,  and 


xxxli  RHENISH  ART. 

from  whose  brush  we  possess  one  authentic  work  in  the  faded  mural 
paintings  of  the  Hansa-Saal  in  the  Rathhans  of  Cologne  (now  pre- 
served in  the  Museum).  A  number  of  easel-pieces,  such  as  the 
altar-piece  of  St.  Clara  in  the  cathedral ,  are  attributed  to  him  with 
little  or  no  foundation.  There  is,  however,  better  authority  for 
attributing  to  MeUter  Stephan  Loehner  the  execution  of  the  Dom- 
bildy  the  finest  Q-erman  painting  of  the  15th  century.  This  master, 
who  was  a  native  of  the  district  of  Constance,  and  died  in  1451, 
has  been  successful  in  substituting  figures  of  considerable  spirit 
and  life  for  the  traditional  types  of  his  predecessors ,  with  their 
emaciated  limbs,  their  undeveloped  busts ,  and  their  childish  ex- 
pression of  countenance,  but  he  has  failed  to  take  the  next  step  to- 
wards fidelity  to  nature  in  omitting  to  individualise  his  characters. 
His  female  figures  are  all  exactly  alike,  and  his  male  figures,  though 
divided  into  young  and  old,  are  also  destitute  of  distinctive  charac- 
ter. In  his  treatment  of  the  drapery,  weapons,  gold  trinkets, 
and  all  other  external  accessories,  however,  Meister  Stephan  cannot 
be  reproached  with  the  fault  of  monotony ;  in  executing  these  de- 
tails he  is  scrupulously  faithful  to  nature,  and  his  task  was  doubt- 
less facilitated  by  his  occasional  use  of  the  newly-invented  art  of 
oil-painting.  The  Dombild  and  the  somewhat  earlier  Seminary 
Madorma  (preserved  in  the  Archiepiscopal  Museum')  are  the  most 
important  works  of  this  school,  the  career  of  which  somewhat  re- 
sembled that  of  the  early  Flemish  school  under  the  leadership  of 
Hubert  van  Eyck.  The  Rhenish  masters,  however,  were  soon  sur- 
passed by  their  Flemish  contemporaries,  and  ere  long  entirely  lost 
their  independence.  About  the  end  of  the  15th  cent,  the  art  of 
painting  in  the  Rhineland  was  at  length  thoroughly  pervaded  with 
Flemish  influence.  The  new  style,  however,  was  least  successfully 
imitated  on  the  Lower  Rhine,  and  particularly  at  Cologne.  A 
number  of  pictures  of  the  end  of  the  15th  and  beginning  of  the 
16th  cent. ,  collected  by  the  brothers  Boisser^e  and  Hr.  Wallraf, 
which  were  formerly  ascribed  to  Netherlands  masters,  have  recently 
been  pronounced  to  be  the  works  of  painters  of  Cologne,  not  only 
from  the  fact  that  they  were  found  in  churches  of  Cologne ,  but 
owing  to  their  marked  Lower  Rhenish  characteristics.  They  pre- 
sent at  the  same  time  strong  traces  of  Flemish  Influence,  but  the 
Flemish  models  are  either  exaggerated  or  but  rudely  imitated.  The 
drawing  is  stiff ,  the  colouring  gaudy ,  and  the  expression  harsh. 
These  works  are  generally  classed  in  accordance  with  their  subjects : 
and  we  thus  frequently  hear  of  the  'Master  of  the  Lyversberg  Pas- 
sion', the  'Master  of  the  St.  Bartholomew',  and  other  equally  vague 
designations.  The  historian  of  art  will  find  abundant  opportunity 
of  studying  this  school  in  the  Museum  of  Cologne ,  but  the  subject 
is  not  one  that  will  interest  ordinary  travellers.  One  of  the  best 
masters  of  the  Lower  Rhine  was  Jan  Joest  of  Calcar ,  who  painted 
the  high  altar-piece  in  the  principal  church  there  about  1505. 


RHENISH  ABT.  xxdii 

Portraii-painting  was  also  pzaotised  witii  some  success  at  this  period 
by  Barihel  de  Bruyny  Johann  von  Mehlemj  and  others. 

Tbe  Upn&  Bhbkiih  and  Albmannian  School  or  Paiittdi» 
had  a  more  prosperous  career  than  the  Lower  Rhenish.  The  masters 
of  this  school  also  succumbed  to  Flemish  influenee,  but  they  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  better  use  of  what  they  had  learned  in  the 
Netherlands.  At  the  head  of  the  school  was  Martm  Sokongauer  of 
Golmar  (d.  1488),  a  pupil  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  and  more 
famous  as  an  engraTer  than  as  a  painter.  The  engraver's  art ,  in* 
deed,  fostered  by  the  advance  of  scientific  pursuits,  was  more 
rapidly  and  successfully  developed  than  that  of  painting.  The 
Yotmger  Holbtin  y  Mathias  Otunewald,  t^nd  Hant  Baldung  Orien 
were  also  members  of  this  school,  but  as  their  training  was  not 
strictly  Rhenish  they  are  only  mentioned  hen  in  passing. 

When,  at  a  somewhat  later  period,  the  tide  of  the  lUnaieeanee 
overflowed  theRMneland,  it  met  with  little  or  no  resistance.  After 
a  brief  conflict  with  the  Gothic  architecture,  which  gave  rise  to  the 
erection  of  a  number  of  curious  buildings  in  a  mixed  style,  the 
Renaissance,  introduced  from  France  and  Flanders,  Mid  possessing 
little  in  common  with  the  genuine  Italian  Renaissance,  became 
naturalised  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  about  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century.  This  new  style  of  art,  however,  never  throve  satisfactorily 
on  Rhenish  soil,  partly  because  the  Rhineland  had  ceased  to  be  a 
great  centre  of  civilisation  as  it  had  been  in  the  middle  ages,  part- 
ly because  the  sway  of  ecclesiastical  princes  is  less  favourable  to  the 
steady  progress  of  art  than  that  of  hereditary  sovereigns,  and  also 
because  this  unfortunate  region  was  the  theatre  of  numerous  wars 
which  of  course  paralysed  all  artistic  effort.  Although  Renaissance 
art  never  took  the  form  of  a  permanent  and  organic  system,  it  has 
bequeathed  to  the  Rhineland  several  works  of  great  importance. 
Foremost  among  these  is  the  CaHU  ofHeidelbergj  the  most  sumptu- 
ous example  of  Q-erman  Renaissance,  next  to  which  we  may  men- 
tion the  Porch  of  the  Rathhaus  of  ColognCy  the  fragment  of  the 
Bathhau$  of  JiiUehy  and  the  Schlosa  ofAsehaffehburg.  On  the  Upper 
Rhine,  in  the  Palatinate,  and  in  Baden  we  encounter  a  number  of 
handsome  chateaux  and  pleasing  houses  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
the  16th  cent.,  but  as  a  rule  all  other  styles  were  completely  over- 
shadowed and  obscured  by  that  of  the  Jesuits. 

The  history  of  the  Plastic  A&t  of  the  Renaissance  period  is 
traceable  in  the  numerous  tombstones  of  the  16th  and  17th  cen- 
turies, which  are  to  be  found  not  only  in  the  large  churches  of  the 
principal  towns,  but  also  in  smaller  and  more  remote  places,  such 
as  Simmemy  Boppardy  and  St,  Arnual  near  Saarbrucken.  A  strik- 
ingly-beautiful work  of  a  late  period  is  the  tomb  of  the  saint  in  the 
Church  of  St.  Ursula  at  CoLognCy  which  was  executed  in  1619. 

The  dependence  of  the  Rhineland  on  the  Netherlands,  which  is 
often  noticeable  in,  the  province  of  architecture,  is  still  more  ob- 

Bakdeeeb's  Bhine.    10th  Edit.  6 


xxxlT  RHENISH  ART. 

vlons  in  the  Paiivting  of  this  period.  Numerous  Netherlands 
masters  migrated  to  the  German  courts,  and  the  Oermans  them- 
selves imitated  these  foreign  masters,  even  when  they  drew  their 
inspirations  from  the  Italians.  In  the  second  half  of  the  16th 
cent,  the  German  masters  feU  under  the  influence  of  the  Dutch 
school,  and  when  French  taste  came  to  he  in  vogue  they  again 
yielded  their  homage  to  the  fashion  of  the  day.  Many  of  these 
painters,  even  down  to  the  18th  cent.,  such  as  Junker ^  SeekatSy 
and  Boos  of  Frankfort,  possessed  considerable  natural  ability  and 
manual  skill,  but  at  the  present  day  their  works  are  weU-nigh 
consigned  to  oblivion. 

The  most  imposing  of  the  Rhenish  edifices  of  last  century  are 
the  palaces  in  the  Rocooo  or  Baboqub  Sttlb,  erected  by  the  vari- 
ous petty  Rhenish  princes,  temporal  and  spiritual,  in  imitation  of 
the  palace  of  Versailles,  such  as  those  of  Carlaruhef  Mannheimj 
Bruchsalf  Bruhlj  and  Bonn. 

At  the  close  of  the  century  the  Rhenish  principalities  were 
swept  away  by  the  French  Revolution,  and  with  them  were  extin- 
guished the  last  signs  of  the  vitality  of  art.  After  the  restoration 
of  peace,  however,  a  revival  began  to  take  place.  Boisser^e's  col- 
lection was  the  means  of  bringing  early  Rhenish  art  into  very 
favourable  notice  and  of  inspiring  the  public  with  confidence  in  the 
capabilities  of  Rhenish  artists.  The  ^Romanticists*  were  desirous 
that  Cologne  should  be  made  the  new  centre  of  art  and  science,  but 
in  1818  the  university  was  founded  at  Bonn,  and  in  1819  the 
academy  atDOssELBOBF.  The  painter  Comeliu8j  who  was  appoint- 
ed director  of  the  academy,  and  who  usually  spent  the  winter 
only  at  Dfisseldorf  (and  the  summer  at  Munich),  exercised  no  great 
influence  on  the  progress  of  Rhenish  art.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Wilhetm  Schadow  (1827),  under  whose  able  guidance  the  Diissel- 
dorf  School  was  brought  into  the  right  track  and  secured  the  favour 
of  the  public.  The  chief  subjects  of  the  painters  of  this  period  are 
scenes  firom  private  life,  melancholy,  sentimental,  and  humorous,  or 
poetical  themes  readily  intelligible  to  the  middle  classes  of  society, 
and  their  style  is  generally  pleasing.  Some  of  the  masters  of  this 
school,  and  particularly  Lessingj  have  also  chosen  themes  of  the 
deepest  national  interest.  Forty  years  have  elapsed  since  the  Dussel- 
dorf  School  first  attained  celebrity,  and  the  public  taste  has  under- 
gone material  changes  since  that  period,  but  the  Industrious  colony 
of  painters  on  the  banks  of  theDussel  still  deservedly  enjoys  a  high 
reputation.  Lastly  we  may  mention  Veifs  studio  at  Maybnob,  the 
school  of  art  connected  with  the  Stadel  Gallery  at  Fbankfobt,  and 
the  academy  of  Gablsbuhb,  forming  a  kind  of  offshoot  of  the  Diis- 
seldorf  School,  at  aU  of  which  modern  German  painting  is  taught 
and  practised  with  considerable  success. 


1.  From  Snusels  to  Cologne. 

Iddi/iH.  By]^»xMiA&i/^/2brB.  (farMS6fr.95^9fr.36e.).  BmaXi 
articles  of  lefKage  m«  eiamiited  at  Herbaatlialf  registered  laggage  on  ar« 
rival  at  Cologne.  Finest  views  between  Louvain  and  Li^ge  to  the  rifht. 
District  between  Li^ge  and  Aix-Ia-Ohapelle  replete  with  interest. 

The  BsftoxscH-lfABXiBCB  Baawat  for  IHliMtldoff  diverges  from  the  line 
described  below  at  Varviers  (p.  8),  and  runs  vi&  Bltybtrg  (cnsfton-bouse) 
and  Aix-la-Chapelle  (Templerbend  Station).  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Dus< 
seldorf,  see  B.  o.  Through-carriages  at  Brussels  for  Dusseldorf  (Berlin,  etc.). 

Brussels  f.  —  Hotehi  In  the  Place  Boyale,  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
town:  Bellevub,  De  Fland&b,  Or  l'Eubopb,  Mbnoellb,  all  expensive.  In 
the  lower  part  of  the  townt  Gbamd  H6rrBt  db  Bbdxxllbs,  Boulevard 
Central;  Hotbl  pb  Sixftnx,  Bue  de  rSvdqne;  Da  Sazb  and  Db  i.'UinvBBS 
in  the  Bue  Neuve,  leading  from  the  station  into  the  town.  Db  la  Postb, 
Rue  Foss^-anx-Loups  -y  De  Viennb,  Rue  de  la  Fourche,  less  pretending. 

Engliih  Ohurch  Senrioe  at  the  Church  of  th€  ResurrectUniy  ift  the  Bne 
Stassart;  at  ChrtMtehurchy  Bue  Grespel,  Aveiuie  de  la  Toison  d'Or,  and  at 
the  French  ProiMUmi  Chw^h^  Bue  Belliard. 

Brussels  J  the  capital  of  Belgium  and  residence  Of  the  king,  con- 
tains, including  the  suburbs,  about  400,000  inhab.,  2/3  of  whom 
speak  Flemish,  and  Y3  French.  Like  Paris  it  possesses  its  paiks, 
boulevards,  caftfs-chantants,  and  other  attractions ;  but  this  Paris 
in  miniature  should  be  seen  before  the  great  French  metropolis  by 
those  who  would  avoid  disappointment. 

The  passing  visitor  is  zeoommended  to  take  the  following  walk, 
which  will  occupy  half-a-day :  Adjacent  to  the  Rue  Neuve,  which 
leads  from  the  station  into  the  city,  rises  the  ^Martyrs'  Monumenty 
designed  by  Geefs,  and  erected  in  1838  to  the  memory  of  those  who 
fell  in  the  war  with  Holland  in  1830. 

Then  past  the  ThSdtre  Royal  to  the  *H6tel  de  VilU,  The 
£.  half  of  the  magnificent  facade  of  the  latter  was  begun  in  1402, 
the  W.  in  1403;  statues  of  Dukes  of  Brabant,  erected  in  1853, 
replace  those  mutilated  by  the  sansculottes  in  1792.  On  the  W. 
side  of  the  Place  de  THotel  de  Ville  are  various  ^Guild-houses, 
erected  at  the  beginning  of  last  century.  At  the  back  of  the  H6tel 
de  Yille,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  du  Chene  and  the  Bue  de  VEtuve, 
is  the  curious  Manneken  fountain,  much  revered  by  the  populace. 
The  *Oalerie  8t.  Hulertj  an  arcade  near  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  is  a 
handsome  structure ,  702  ft.  long,  59  ft.  high ,  and  78  ft.  broad, 
containing  some  of  the  most  tempting  shops  in  the  city.  The  Place 
Boyale  is  adorned  with  the  e(iuestrian  *Statue  of  Godfrey  de  BouU- 
ton,  in  bronze,  executed  by  Simonis  in  1848,  The  adjoining  *Parh 


t  For  a  fuller  description  of  Belgian  towns*  see  Baedeker's  Belgium 
and  Holland, 

Babdbkbb's  Bhine.   10th  Edit.  1 


2     Soutel.  LOUYAIN.  From  BnuseU 

is  the  favourite  pr&menade  of  the  citizens.  On  the  S.  side  rises  the 
Royal  Palaecj  on  the  N.  side  the  Palais  de  la  Nation. 

Not  far  from  the  latter,  beyond  the  Rue  Royale,  is  the  ^Cathedral 
(St€.  Oudule  et  8t,  Miehd),  the  finest  church  in  Brussels,  with  two 
truncated  Gothic  towers.  It  was  erected  in  the  13th -14th  cent., 
but  the  choir  and  the  unfinished  W.  towers  are  of  the  15th,  the 
large  (N.)  chapel  of  the  Sacrament  of  the  16th,  the  (S.)  chapel  of 
Notce  Dame  de  D^ivrance  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  the  whole  was 
restored  in  1848-56.  —  The  new  *Palai8  de  Ju$the^  in  the  Plaoe 
Polaert,  erected  in  1866-83  after  plans  by  Polaert,  at  an  expense  of 
2,000,000  i. ,  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  buildings  of  modem  times. 

At Schaerbeekf  the  fmt  railway-station,  the  Bfalfnes  line  diverges 
to  the  left.   Then  several  small  stations. 

18  M.  Louyain,  Flem.  Leuven  or  Loven  (Hdtel  de  Suhde;  *Du 
Nord;  Du  Nouveau  Monde) y  pop.  38,100.  The  traveller  who  stops 
here  shonld  not  fail  to  visit  the  **M6Ul  de  VUle,  a  magnificent  edi- 
fice in  the  later  Gothic  style ,  erected  1448-63 ,  and  the  Gothic 
^Chufch  of  8i.  Peter,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.,  remarkable  for 
symmetry  of  proportion.  The  choir-stalls  in  the  Church  of  Si»  Ger- 
trude also  merit  inspection. 

29  M,  lirlemont,  or  Thienen  (Nouveau  Monde ;  Hdtel  de  Flandre), 
occupies  an  extensive  area,  nearly  6  M.  in  circumference,  but  is 
thinly  peopled  (13,700  inhab.).  The  Church  of  Si.  Oermain  prob- 
ably dates  from  the  12th  century. 

The  train  next  traverses  a  lofty  embankment ,  aflfording  an  ex- 
tensive view.  In  clear  weather  the  Lion  and  the  Prussian  monu- 
ment at  Waterloo  may  be  distinguished  in  the  distance  to  the  right. 

Between  Esemael  and  Landen  the  line  intersects  the  plain  of 
Neerwinden,  the  scene  of  two  great  battles.  In  the  first  the  allies 
under  William  III.  of  England  were  defeated  in  the  Spanish  War 
of  Succession  by  the  French  under  Marshal  Luxembourg,  29th  July, 
1693 ;  in  the  second  the  French  under  Dumouriez  and  Louis  Phi- 
lippe (*Egalit^)  were  defeated  by  the  Austrians  under  the  Duke  of 
Coburg,  18th  March,  1793. 

38  M.  Landen  was  the  birthplace  of  Pepin  of  Landen,  ancestor  of 
Pepin  the  Little  and  Charlemagne,  and  'major-domo' of  Clothaire  11. 
He  died  here  in  640,  and  was  interred  on  the  hill  which  bears  his 
name.    With  him  began  the  ascendancy  of  the  Carlovingian  line. 

Beyond  (46  M.)  Waremme,  the  line  intersects  the  well-preserved 
Roman  Roadj  or  ^Road  of  Brunhilde^ ,  from  Bavay  (Bavacum  Ner- 
viorum)  near  Mons,  to  Tongres,  9  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Waremme.  The 
Heshaye,  a  district  of  which  Waremme  was  formerly  the  capital, 
was  noted  for  the  strength  and  bravery  of  its  inhabitants ,  as  the 
old  proverb  testifies:  ^Qui  passe  dans  le  Heshain  est  combattu 
VendemairC, 

The  undulating,  agricultural  district  of  Brabant,  with  its  phleg- 
matic Germanic  inhabitants,  Is  quitted  near  (58  M.)  Am  (l90  ft. 


to  Cologne,  Utofi.  l.RouU,     3 

hi^hei;  thsA  Li^ge)  Sor  a  mining  tract  with  a  Walloon  population  of 
Geltio  origin,  ]»ynaxkable  for  activity  and  vivacity  of  disposition. 

Ab  the  tiaija  descends  the  rapid  (1 :  30)  incline  to  Ll^e »  a  fine 
yi^w  of  the  city  and  the  valley  of  the  Meuae  ia  obtained. 

61  M.  Lft%»»  Flem.  Luik,  Ger.  Luttich  {*H6tel  dc  Suede;  •Hotel 
dPAngUterrty  etc.),  is  a  to vn  containing  130,000  inhabitants.  A 
short  stay  here  should  be  devoted  to  the  iPalaU  de  Justice ,  the 
Chfwreh  of  St.  Jaequet ,  the  Cathedral  (St,  Paul)^  and,  for  the  sake 
of  the  view,  the  Citadel. 

Beyond  Lidge  the  Meuse  is  crossed  by  the  handsome  Pont  du 
Val  BendU.  Nnmerous  lofty  chimneys  afford  indication  of  the  pros- 
perity of  the  district.  The  extensive  zlno  -  foundry  of  the  Vieille- 
Montagne  company  is  next  passed,  and  the  Ourthe  crossed.  ChenSey 
the  first  statibn  beyond  Li^ge,  is  another  manufacturing  town. 

66  M.  Chandfontaine  (*Orand  B6tel  des  Bains)  i»  a  small,  but 
picturesquely-aitaated  watering-place,  with  a  thermal  spring  (104** 
Fahr.),  rising  on  an  iriand  in  the  Vesdre, 

Beyond  the  next  tunnel,  the  picturesque  castle  of  La  Rochette 
is  seen  on  an  eminence  to  the  left.  Near  Le  Trooz  the  ancient  castle 
of  that  name,  now  used  aa  a  manufactory  of  ganbanels,  is  perched 
on  the  rooks  to  the  right.  Tarther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  castle  of 
Fra^jiont* 

Between  (70^/2  M.)  Neaaonvaux  and  (T31/2  M.)  Pepinater,  to  the 
right  of  the  line,  stands  the  Chotteau  de  Masu¥e  (maswie  *=  ruined 
house),  erected  by  a  wealthy  manufacturer  of  Verviers,  and  said  to 
occupy  the  site  of  a  hunting-'Seat  of  King  Pepin.  At  Pepin&ter 
('Pepin's  terre*)  a  branch -line  diverges  to -Spa,  the  well-known 
watering-place,  7^2  ^-  distant.  The  next  stat.  Ensival,  to  the 
left  of  the  line,  is  inmost  contlguoua  to  Verviers. 

761/2  M.  Verviers  (H6UI  des  Pays-Baa,  in  the  torwn ;  mtela  du 
Chemin  de  Pet  arid  d^ AUtmdgne,  both  at  the  station ;  Rcdl.  Reatau- 
rant),  with  41,000  inhab.,  the  junction  for  Bleyberg  (see  p.  1),  is 
a  busy  commercial  town  of  recent  origin.  Here  and  in  the  environs 
about  400,000  pieces  of  cloth,  w6rth  3,400,0002. ,  are  manufactured 
annually. 

On  an  eminence  (*View)  near  stat.  Dolhain,  a  modem  town, 
picturesquely  situated  in  the  valley  of  theVesdre,  stands  the  an- 
oiejit  fortress  oi  idniburg ,  tilmost  the  sole  remnant  of  the  once 
fkmrlshing  capital  of  the  dochy  of  that  name,  destroyed  by  Louis  XIV. 
in  1675,  The  castle  was  the  family-seat  of  the  powerful  ducal  fa- 
mily of  Limburg,  to  which  the  emperors  Henry  VII. ,  Charles  FV., 
Wence^ans,  and  Sigismund  belonged.  Pedestrians  will  be  repaid 
by  a  walk  (about  25  M.)  from  Dolhain  by  Verviers  to  Liftge. 

85i/2  M.  fierbestbal,  the  first  Prussian  village,  Is  the  frontier 
station  (branch  line  to  Eupen').  The  custom-house  formalities  cause 
a  detention  of  about  10  mln.  here.  Beyond  stat.  Aatenety  Lontaen 
and  the  castle  of  WeUcenhauaen  lie  to  the  left.  The  train  crosses  the 


4     Route  1.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.         From  BtubmU 

valley  of  the  Gohl  by  a  handsome  vladtiot,  125  ft.  in  heigfht.  To  the 
left  lies  Hergenrathj  and  in  the  distance  beyond,  the  Eineburg  or 
Emmaburgy  situated  on  the  slope  of  wooded  moontains  (p.  1!2)« 

The  train  next  passes  through  two  tunnels  (191  yds.  and  833  yds. 
respeotively),  and  finally  descends  to  the  Rhenish  Station  at  — 

95  M.  Aix-la-Chapelle.  —  Bailway  Stations.  1.  Khenith  BtaUon  (PI. 
D,  5),  for  Cologne,  Verviers,  and  Li^ge.  2.  Temptef^&nd  Station  (PI.  A,  2), 
the  main  station  of  the  Bergisch-Markigch  Bailway  for  €Fladbach,  Duaael- 
dorf,  Verviera,  Li^ge,  etc.  3.  MarseMer-Thor  Station  (PI.  C,  5,  6),  a  second 
station  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  Bailway.  These  three  are  all  used  by 
the  trains  of  the  Belgian  Orand-Central  line  (for  Hastricht,  Antwerp,  etc.). 
4.  Station  of  the  ^ Aachen- JUlielur  Bahn\  at  the  Koln^Thor  (PI.  F,  1). 

Hotels.  *GxAM]>  HoHAiuiVB  (PI.  a^  G,  3),  Biichel  49-51;  ^Hotkl  Ndsl- 
LBN8  (PI.  b }  C,  3,  4),  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz  5,  6,  opposite  the  Elisen- 
brunnen ;  both  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  and  of  the  highest  class. 
♦Hotel  Bellbtck  (PI.  c;  C,  3),  HolzgrabenS;  ♦HdTBi  db  l'Bjifbbbub  (PI. 
d;  C,  8),  Edel-Str.  6;  '^HdxBi.  Hrnbion  (PI.  e:  D,8),  Comphauibad-Str.  13, 
adjoining  the  Curhaus:  *H6tkl  Hoxeb,  or  Imperial  Crown  (PI.  f:  D,  2), 
Alexander-Str.  34-86;  •Dbagon  d'Oe  (PI.  g;  C,  D,  3),  Comphansbad-Str.  9; 
Hotel  zum  Elbphamtbn  (PI.  h;  C,  8),  Ursnliner^Str.  11,  well  spoken  of; 
KoHiG  VON  Spahibh  (PI.  i;  C,  4),  Kleinmarschier-Str.  52;  Kablshaus  (PI. 
k:  C,  4),  see  p.  6.  All  these  in  the  interior  of  the  town.  —  Near  the 
Bnenish  Station:  *Hoteb's  Union  HOtel  (PI.  1;  D,  5),  Bahnhofe-Platz  1; 
♦Hotel  du  Kobd,  Bdmer-Str. ;  H6tbl  Fiokabtz,  Hoch-Str.  2  and  Wall- 
Str.  65,  with  restaurant,  commercial;  Hotel  Dubbn,  Bahnhofs-Plate  4; 
Gbaaf,  Wall-Str.  1;  Bbockino,  Harschierthor-Platz  2;  the  last  three  un- 

Sretending.  —  Near  the  Templerbend  Station:  Eloubbbt,  Templergraben 
5,  with  restaurant. 

Bath  Establishments  (also  hotels,  and  open  throughout  the  whole 
year;  no  table  d'hote).  "KaUerhad  (PI.  36 ;  C,  3),  Biichel  26-30;  K6nigin  von 
Ungam  (PI.  38;  C,  3),  at  the  comer  of  the  Biichel  and  the  Edel-Str.,  a  hand- 
some new  building;  Neuhad  (PI.  39;  G,  3),  Biichel  34;  Quirimuhad  (PL  40; 
C,  3),  Hof  7.  These  four  are  the  bath-houses  of  the  'Upper  Sprincs'  (p.  9). 
The  following  are  supplied  by  the  'Lower  Springs' :  Rosenbad  (PI.  41 ;  C,  3); 
Corneliusbad  (PI.  35;  C,  3);  KarMmd  (PI.  ^T;  C,  3);  CompKambad  (PI.  34; 
C,  3),  all  four  near  the  Curhaus.  —  Cold  «nd  Warm  Bat?u  at  the  Swim- 
ming  Bath$  in  the  Kaiser-Platz. 

Bestauraats.  Wins.  *  Curhaus  (p.  9),  D.  2^2  m. ;  Eliienbrunnm 
(p.  9);  *'Giesen  Cim  KlUppeV),  Holzgraben  1  and  Ursuliner-Str.  21  (PI.  C,  3); 
Kegler^  Capuzinergraben  19;  *Seheu/er,  Hartmann  -  Str.  —  Wiener  Bof- 
burg^  Adalbert-Str.  35;  BemartSy  see  below;  Erhohmgy  Fried.  Wilhelms- 
Platz,  a  favourite  place  of  amusement,  with  richly -decorated  rooms.  — 
Otstess:  Lennertz,  Kloster-Str.  23.  —  Bees:  ^AU-Bayern^  Wirigsbon- 
gard  43  (PI.  D,  4);  Bavaria^  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz  2;  SchelL  Frie- 
drich-Wilhelms-PIatz  9;  *Kilpper»j  Theater-Platz  9;  Fauhauer^  (Japuzi- 
nergraben,  opposite  the  theatre;  Fickartz  (see  above) ;  Vandeneschen,  Hoch- 
strasse  32 ;  SckmitZf  Hoch-Str.  17,  with  a  pretty  garden ;  Kaisersaaly  Wall- 
Str.,  with  a  handsome  concert- room;  Wol/garten,  Hoch-Str.  31;  Stuart- 
mann,  Wilhelm-Str.  Sereral  'Bierkeller'  at  the  foot  of  the  LouBberg  (PI. 
B,  1),  at  the  Frankenberg  (p.  12),  etc. 

Oafis:  at  the  Curhaus  (see  p.  9);  at  the  Elisenhrunnen  (p.  9);  Wiener 
Cafi^  Fried. -Wilhelms-Platz,  near  Kuellen's  Hotel;  at  the  Lwaberg  (see 
p.  11).  —  Gonpbctionebs  :  Wahl^  Theater-Platz  7 ;  Geuleny  Theater-Platz  13  < 
OellerSy  Damengraben  7. 

Oabs.    From  6  a.m.  to  10  p.m.  (at  night  double  fares):  — 

(1)  Per  drive:  Within  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Burtscheidjl  pers.  60,  each 
additional  pers.  20  pf. ;  luggage  under  lOlba.  tree,  trunk  30  pf.  —  To  the 
Belvedere  Inn  oil  the  LotuberOf  1-2  pers.  1  m.  50  pf. ;  84  pers.  2  m.;  to 
the  top  of  the  hill  2  m.,  and  2  m.  50  pf. 

p)  Bp  time:  Each  Vj  hr.  1-2  pers.  1  m.  30  pf.,  34  pers.  1  m.  50  pf. 


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to  Cok^ne,  AIX-LA-OHAPELLE.  i.  Route.     5 

TyMuwayi  trarerfle  Aix-Ia-Chftpelle  and  Burtscheid,  in  yarioua  direc- 
tions ;  comp.  the  Plan. 

Poat-Oifiee  (PI.  28;  B,  3,  4),  Jacob-Str.  2S.  —  Talaffraph-Offloe,  Gapu- 
eittergraben  17,  near  the  theatre  (PI.  0, 4). 

Tli6«tr«a.  Stadf^Theater  (PI.  C,  4),  performaneea  in  winter  only  •,  Btr- 
narW  Sauon-TheaUr  (PI.  D,  3),  with  a  large  concert-room,  garden,  and 
restaurant. 

Yisitora'  Tax.  For  a  year,  1  pers.  35,  2  pers.  40,  3  pen.  50  m.,  each 
a4diti0Bal  pen.  10  m. ;  per  month  in  tummer,  12,  20  or  25  m.  for  1,  2,  or 
3  pers.,  each  additional  penon  5  m. ;  per  month  in  winter,  each  pers. 
3  m.    Single  admission  to  the  Blisengarten,  50  pf. 

Picture  Gallery  of  M.  Jaeobi,  Theater-Plata  17. 

Oonaiil  of  the  United  Statea,  Bmry  F.  Merritt,  E$q, 

Bngliah  Ohnzeh  in  the  Anna-Strasse  \  services  at  11.45  a.m.  and  7  p.m. 

Aix^la-ChapelU ,  German  Aachen,  a  very  ancient  town  with 
95,669  Inbab.,  the  Aquisgranum  of  the  Romans,  lies  in  a  fertile 
basin  sunouBded  by  gently  sloping  hills.  It  was  a  favourite  resi- 
dence of  Charlemagne,  who  died  here  in  814.  That  monarch  elevated 
the  town  to  the  rank  of  the  second  city  in  his  empire,  and  the  capital 
of  his  dominions  N.  of  the  Alps.  From  his  death  down  to  the 
accession  of  Ferdinand  I.  (1531)  Aix  witnessed  the  coronation 
of  all  the  German  emperors  (37),  and  was  called  par  excellence  the 
free  city  of  the  Hely  Roman  Empire  and  seat  of  royalty  (^urbs 
Aquensis,  urb$  regaUs,  regni  udea  princtpaliSy  prima  regum  curicC), 
The  insignia  of  eippire  were  preserved  here  till  1793,  when  they 
were  transferred  to  the  Imperial  treasury  at  Vienna.  Alx-la-Chapelle 
has  frequently  been  the  scene  of  Imperial  diets,  ecclesiastical  con- 
vocations, and  congresses.  In  1668  the  peace  between  Louis  XIV. 
and  Spain  was  concluded  here,  by  which  the  French  king  abandoned 
his  pretensions  to  the  Netherlands;  the  second  Peace  of  Aix-la- 
ChapeUe^  of  1748,  terminated  the  Austrian  War  of  Succession ;  and 
by  the  treaty  of  1818  the  German  armies  were  recalled  from  France. 

Externally  this  venerable  imperial  city  has  retained  few  relics 
of  her  ancient  history.  The  cathedral,  corn-exchange,  Rathhaus, 
the  medittTal  fortifications,  now  converted  into  promenades,  and 
the  Marechier-Thor  (PI.  C,  5)  and  the  Pont-Thor  (PI.  B,  2),  dating 
from  the  14th  cent.,  are  the  only  remains  of  the  old  town.  Aix  has 
become  an  entirely  modern  town,  with  broad ,  handsome  streets, 
busy  manufactories  (of  cloth,  needles^  and  machinery),  and  attrac- 
tive shops. 

The  open  space  in  front  of  the  Rhenish  Station  (PI.  G,  5)  is 
embellished  with  the  ^Warriors'  Monument  (PI.  22),  erected  by 
subscription  to  the  memory  of  natives  of  Aix  and  the  neighbourhood 
who  fell  in  1866  and  1870-71.  The  dying  warrior,  to  whom  an 
angel  presents  the  palm  of  victory,  executed  in  bronze,  was  design- 
ed by  Drake.  —  In  the  vicinity  is  the  handsome  Gothic  Marien- 
kirehe  (PI.  11 ;  D,  4,  5),  in  brick,  erected  by  Statz,  an  architect  of 
Cologne,  in  1859,  with  good  stained  glass-windows  and  handsome 
interior.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Leonhard  (PI.  18 ;  C,  6)  contains  a  Na- 
tivity by  De  Orayer. 


6     Route  1,  AtX-LA'CftA.l^i!Lli£.         From  BtusneU 

To  the  right  of  the  MarienklTche  is  the  broad  Theatefr*Stra8se, 
in  which  xilges  th6  Theatre  (PL  C,  4),  erected  hy  Ciemei  in  i&22- 
24.  Opposite  are  the  Oovemment  BuildingB  (PI.  20)..  The  Gothic 
Karlshaus  (PI.  k;  0,  4),  in  the  Capuzinergraben ,  gerreB  M  the 
meeting-place  for  various  Roman  Catholic  societies,  and  also  as  a 
lodging-house.  —  Friedrich'-Wilhelmft-Platz  and  thf  Eliaenbrun- 
nen,  see  p.  9.  Passing  the  latter  on  the  left  we  reach  the  cathedral, 
which  rises  nearly  in  the  centie  of  the  town. 

The  *Cathedral,  oi  Munster  (PI.  0,  3),  consists  of  two  distinct 
parts  in  different  styles  of  architectare.  The  portton  erected  by 
Charlemagne  in  796-804,  and  consecrated  by  Leo  IIT. ,  a  noble  ex- 
ample of  the  Byzantine  style,  is  an  octagon  copied  firom  S.  Vitale  at 
Ravenna,  and  partly  built  by  Italian  workmen,  48  ft.  in  diameter, 
surrounded  by  a  sixteen-sided  passage,  and  terminating  in  a  cupola, 
104  ft.  high.  The  eight  gables  of  the  centra!  stfttcture  are  ef  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  the  lofty,  fantastic  roof  fa  of  the  17th. 
The  octagon  is  surrounded  by  several  chapels,  huHtin  the  14th  and 
15th  cent.,  and  afterwards  partly  altered.  Adjoining  the  octagon 
on  the  E.  is  the  lofty  and  elegant  Gothic  Choir)  begun  by  Mitter 
Oerhard  Chorus  in  1353,  and  comjpleted  in  1413.  A  thoiough  re- 
storation of  the  whole  edifice  has  now  been  some  years  in  progress, 
and  a  Gothic  tower  has  been  erected  to  the  W.  of  the  octagon,  on 
the  foundations  of  the  low  belftry  that  fctmerty  stood  here. 

On  the  right  and  left  of  the  principal  entrance,  borne  by  medern 
pillars,  are  a  brazen  Wolf  {or  she-hear'),  probably  of  Roman  origin,  and 
a  Pine-Cone  J  dating  from  the  10th  cent.,  both  having  doubtleps  once 
belonged  to  a  fountain,  the  water  of  which  flowed  from  apertures 
among  the  hair  of  the  wolf,  and  ftfom  holes  in  the  pine-cone.  Ac* 
cording  to  a  mediasval  legend,  the  funds  for  the  erection  of  the  church 
ran  short,  whereupon  the  devil  offered  to  supply  the  deficiency  on 
condition  that  the  first  living  being  that  entered  the  building  should 
be  sacrificed  to  him.  The  magistrates  entered  into  the  compact,  but 
outwitted  the  devil  by  admitting  a  wolf  into  the  sacred  edifice  on 
its  completion.    The  Bronze  Doors  were  cast  about  804. 

The  *Intbb,iob  op  thb  Octagon  is  borne  by  eight  massive 
pillars,  which  separate  the  central  space  from  the  surrounding  two- 
storied  passage.  The  lofty,  round-arched  openings  of  the  upper 
story,  or  'Hochmunster',  are  enlivened  with  a  double  row  of  col- 
umns, of  unequal  length,  some  of  them  in  marble,  others  in  granite, 
brought  from  Rome,  Treves,  and  Ravenna.  The  most  valuable  were 
taken  to  Paris  by  the  French  in  1794,  but  restored  in  1815;  some  of 
them  were  replaced  by  new  ones  in  1845.  The  capitals  are  all  new, 
and  unfortunately  differ  materially  in  ornament  from  the  Byzantine 
originals.  The  large  Mosaic  in  the  dome,  on  a  gold  ground,  repre- 
senting Christ  surrounded  by  the  24  Klders  of  the  Apocalypse,  was 
executed  by  Salviati  ^-  Co.  from  a  design  by  J.  Bithune,  in  the 
•tyle  of  an  old  mosaic  with  which  the  dome  was  originally  adorned. 


to  CdlOQne.  AIX-LA-GHAPBLLE.  1,  Soute,     7 

The  gilded  Candelabrum  wag  presented  by  FredericiL  Barbarossa  In 
1165.  The  insoription  ^Caxolo  Magno'  on  the  paTement  beneath  U 
is  modem.  The  tomb  of  the  great  emperor  waa  probably  in  a  ehapel 
adjoining  the  church.  The  so-called  VngariscKe  CaptlUi  adjoining 
the  oetagon  on  the  S.  (to  the  right  of  the  W.  entrance),  recently 
restored  in  the  Gothic  style ,  contains  the  treasury  (see  below). 
The  Kreut'CapeUe,  or  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas,  on  the  N.W.  side, 
retains  its  Gothic  architecture  of  the  beginning  of  the  15th  century. 
(The  egress  leads  to  tha  late-Gothic  Cloiatert,  with  the  small 
^Drachenloch',  a  xelic  of  an  interesting  laite-Romanesqne  edifloe.) 

The  ^Choib  is  remarkable  for  ita  light  and  elegant  proportions. 
The  large  windows  aie  flUed  with  richly-coloured  *Stained  (7Zasa, 
representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Vijgiii  (Assumption  and 
Coronation  designed  by  Cornelias),  executed  partly  at  Berlin,  and 
partly  at  Cologne  and  Alx.  On  the  pillars  between  the  windows 
are  statues  of  Charlemagne,  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  of  1430,  recently  coloured.  The  ^Btading  IHtkt  oonsisting 
of  an  eagle  on  a  rich  stand  of  open* work,  was  cast  in  copper  in  the 
15th  century.  Behind  it  is  the  stone  which  marks  the  Tomb  of 
Otho  III,  (d.  1002).  ThePui:ptt,  adorned  with  gold,  precloua  stones, 
and  carved  ivory,  was  a  gift  of  Henry  II.  (d.  1024>  The  sacristan 
shows  the  pulpit,  %h»  imperial  throne,  and  sarcophagus  (1-1^2  ii^*)- 

The  HoGHMt)NSTB%,  or  gallery  of  tiie  octagon,  contains  the  im- 
perial Thfot^e,  composed  of  marble  slabs,  on  which  the  remains  of 
Charlemagne  (d.  814)  reposed  for  upwards  of  350  years,  having 
been  found  by  £mp.  Otho  lU.  who  opened  the  tomb  in  the  year 
1000.  Frederick  Barbarossa  opened  the  tomb  a  second  time  in 
1165,  and  transferred  the  remains  to  an  antique  Saroophagus^  while 
the  throne  was  afterwards  used  for  the  coronation  of  the  emperors. 
The  sarcophagus,  in  Parian  marble,  with  the  Bape  of  Proserpine  in 
relief.  Is  also  preserved  here ;  but  the  remains  of  the  emperor,  who 
had  been  canonised  in  1164,  were  placed  by  Frederick  II.  in  a  reli- 
quary composed  of  gold  and  silver  (see  below)  about  1215.  The 
*BaluiUrade  between  the  columns  waa  cast  about  the  year  804,  and 
is  perhaps  of  Italian  workmanship. 

The  CarU'Capelle,  which  adjoins  the  Hochmunster  on  the  N., 
dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent ;  the  *Anna'Capelle,  on 
the  S.,  was  consecrated  in  1449.  The  ground-floor  of  the  Maithias- 
CapelUj  also  on  the  S.,  built  in  the  latter  half  of  the  14th  cent., 
is  used  as  a  sacristy. 

.  The  rich  *Oathsdnl  Treainry  (ahowti  daily,  except  Sundays  and  fcsti- 
ral8,  from  10  to  12  and  from  1  to  6  o'clock*,  ticket  fbr  1-3  persons  3  m., 
for  each  additional  person  1  m.;  a  single  traveller  will  frequently  find 
opportunities  of  Joining  a  party)  is  contained  in  the  above-mentioned 
Ungarisehe  Capelle  (Keeper,  Herr  Lennartz,  Dqmhof  1).  The  chief  objects 
of  interest  are  the  sumptuous  late-Romanesque  Shrine  of  thi  Four  Great 
RfHcM,  executed  in  the  year  1220  (contaiaing  the  'robe  of  the  Virgin, 
the  swaddling-clothes  of  the  infant  Christ,  the  bloody  cloth  in  which  the 
body  of  John  the  Baptist  was  wrapped,  and  the  linen  cloth  with  which 


8     BouUl.  AIX-LA-GHAPELLE.         From  Brw$eU 

the  Sayiour  waa  girded  on  the  Cros8\  which  are  shown  to  the  public 
gratis  once  only  every  seven  years)  ^  Reliquaty  of  Charlemaffne^  likewise 
a  uagnifleent  late-Romanesqne  work;  the  Btut  of  CharWmagne^  in  gold 
and  enamelf  14th  cent.;  the  Oro99  ofj^othawe^  presented  by  that  monarch 
(d.  1187) )  several  admirably -executed  Qothie  Reliquaries;  sixteen  Relief m 
in  gold,  with  scenes  from  the  Passion,  etc.,  in  the  Romanesque  style; 
the  Buntinff'hom  of  Oharlematmoy  of  oriental  ivory-work;  numeroos 
mediseval  vessels,  in  gold  and  silver,  candelabra,  and  other  curiosities. 
These  objects  are  preserved  in  large  glass  cabinets,  closed  by  winged 
doors,  on  the  Insides  of  which  are  paintings  of  the  early  Flemish  school, 
attributed  to  Bvifo  van  der  OoeM,  a  pupil  of  the  Van  Eyoks  <15th  cent.). 

In  the  Fischmftrkt,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  cathedral,  is  the 
dilapidated  Komhalle  (PI.  21 ;  B,  3,  4),  or  Orashaue^  perhaps  the 
old  Town  Hall,  completed  in  1267,  with  statues  of  the  seven  Elec- 
tors (?).  —  To  theE.,  behind  the  choir  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  Church 
of  St,  Foilan  (PI.  9;  C,  3),  the  oldest  parish  chnrch  in  the  town. 
The  present  building,  dating  from  the  late  Gothic  period,  was  rebuilt 
In  the  17th  cent. ,  and  has  recently  been  restored.  —  The  Parish 
Church  ofSt.  Michael  (PL  12;  B,  C,  4),  built  in  1618-1628,  con- 
tains a  Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Honthorst  (1632). 

To  the  N.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Mabkbt  (PI.  0,  3),  adorned 
with  a  Fountain  and  a  poor  statne  of  Charlemagne  erected  in  1620. 
Here  is  situated  the  ^^thhatui,  or  Tovm  Hall  (PI.  C,  3),  a  plain 
Gothic  edifice,  begun  in  1356  by  the  burgomaster  Hitter  Oerhard 
Chorus  J  the  builder  of  the  cathedral  choir,  on  the  site,  and  partly 
with  the  fragments  of  the  ancient  Carlo vingian  palace,  and  completed 
in  1376.  The  building  was  recently  carefully  restored,  but  was  seri- 
ously injured  by  a  fire  in  1883.  The  two  towers  flanking  the  facade, 
of  which  that  to  the  W.,  called  the  ^  Granu8thurm\  belonged  In 
part  to  the  ancient  palace,  were  almost  entirely  burned  down. 

A  flight  of  steps,  erected  in  1878,  leads  from  the  mark«t>place  to  the 
Vestibule  on  the  first  floor,  from  which  we  ascend  the  Gk>thic  staircase, 
added  in  1848  (view  of  the  cathedral  from  the  balcony),  to  the  Kaisersaal 
(custodian  60-75  pf.;  more  for  a  party). 

The  *Xalaersaai,  a  hall  65  yds.  long  and  20  yds.  vride,  with  vaulting 
borne  by  four  massive  buttresses,  occupies  the  whole  length  of  the  upper 
floor.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  eight  *^Frb8coe8,  which  rank  among 
the  finest  modem  examples  of  historical  painting;  the  first  four  are  by 
Alfred  Rethel  (born  at  Aix  1816,  d.  1859);  the  others,  designed  by  him,  were 
executed,  with  more  vigorous  colouring,  by  Kehren:  — 

1.  The  Emp.  Otho  III.  opening  the  burial-vault  of  Charlemagne; 
2.  Fall  of  the  ^Irmensaule' ;  3.  Battle  with  the  Saracens  at  Cordova; 
4.  Conquest  of  Paviain774  (these  by  Rethel)\  5.  Baptism  of  Wittekind  and 
Alboin ;  6.  Coronation  of  Charlemagne  in  St.  Peter's  at  Bome ;  7.  Building 
of  the  Cathedral  of  Aix-la-Chapelle ;  8.  Abdication  of  Charlemagne  and 
Coronation  of  his  son  Louis  the  Pious.  Polychrome  ornamentation  of 
buttresses  and  vaulting  by  KleuierU.  The  37  consoles  on  the  walls  sup- 
port small  statues  of  the  German  emperors  crowned  at  Aix. 

The  Council-Hall  contains  portraits  of  Friedrich  Wilhelm  III.,  paint- 
ed in  1817,  the  emperors  Leopold  I.,  Karl  VI.,  Karl  VII,  the  Empress 
Maria  Theresa,  an  old  portrait  of  Charlemagne,  by  an  unknown  master 
(16th  cent.))  &nd  others.  The  stained-glass  window,  with  a  portrait  of 
the  Emp.  William,  is  by  M.  H.  Scfumtz. 

In  the  Pont-Strasse,  which  leads  from  the  market  to  the  N.W., 
is  the  Nieolauskirche  (PI.  7 ;  B,  3),  containing  an  altar-piece  by 


to  Cologne.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  1.  Boute,     9 

Diepenbeek,  a  pupil  of  Rubens.  —  In  the  Templergraben  near  the 
Diiafieldorf  SUtion,  is  situated  the  Rhenish-Westphalian  Polyteoh- 
sic  School  (PL  B,  2,  3),  erected  by  Cremer  in  1865-70,  and  now 
attended  by  400  students.  The  handsome  staircase  and  hall  should 
be  inspected.  —  Adjacent  is  the  Chemieal  Laboratofy,  a  fine  Re- 
naissance edifice  built  by  Ewerbeok  and  Intze  in  1879,  with  ac- 
commodation fox  120  students.  —  The  Parith  Church  of  8U  James 
(PL  10 ;  A,  4),  a  Romanesque  edifice,  built  by  Wiethase  in  1877- 
82,  is  situated  in  the  S.W.  of  the  town. 

The  celebrated  warm  Sulphur  Sprinob  of  Aix,  which  were 
known  to  the  Romans,  rise  in  Alz  itself  and  the  neighbouring  town 
of  Burtscheid  from  the  limestone-rock,  and  there  are  also  seyeral 
chalybeate  springs  whioh  have  their  source  in  the  clay-slate.  Of 
the  fbrmer  the  chief  is  the  Kaiserquelle  (131**  Fahr.),  which  rises 
on  the  'BucheV,  on  the  slope  of  the  market-hill  (PI.  C,  3),  and 
supplies  the  Kaiserbad,  Neubad,  *  Queen  of  Hungary',  and  Elisen- 
brunnen.  The  Quirinusquelle  (125*^  rises  in  the  bath-house  of  that 
name  in  the  neighbouring  'Hof .  These  two  springs  are  called 
the  *Obere  Quellen'.  The  *Untere  Quelleu',  as  the  Roeenquelle 
(116°)  and  Cornelmsquelle  (113®)  are. called,  rise  in  the  Oomp- 
hausbad-Strasse,  a  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  others.  The  baths  of 
Aix-la-Chapelle  are  annually  Tisited  by  about  8000  patients,  be- 
sides passing  trayellers. 

The  EUsenbrunuen  (PI.  G,  3,  4) ,  as  the  drinking  spring  is 
named  after  the  consort  of  Fred.  William  IV.,  is  in  the  Friedrich- 
Wilhelms-Platz.  The  Doric  colonnade  connected  with  it,  90  yds. 
long,  was  designed  by  Schinkel  and  erected  in  1822-24.  Two  flights 
of  steps  descend  to  the  'Trinkhalle',  aboye  which  is  placed  a  bust 
of  the  queen  by  Tieck  {Gafi-Btitaurant  in  the  pavilions  and  colon- 
nade). —  At  the  back  of  the  colonnade  is  the  Elistngariens  where  a 
new  Trinkhalle  was  erected  in  1873,  and  where  a  band  plays  from  7 
to  8  a.m.  and  12  to  1  p.m.  during  the  season.  —  The  garden  opens 
on  the  other  side  on  the  Ursuliner-Strasse,  which  is  continued  to 
the  N.  by  the  Edbl-Stba.S8e,  with  several  of  the  bath-houses  men- 
tioned above.  The  cellar  of  the  Kbnigin  von  TJngam  (PI.  38 ;  C,  3), 
Edel-Str.  1,  contains  remains  of  an  ancient  Roman  bath,  which 
extended  as  far  as  the  neighbouring  streets,  and  was  connected 
with  an  aqueduct  coming  from  Burtscheid  (p.  11).  The  discovery 
of  stamps  of  the  6th  legion  (^Victrix')  refers  this  building  to  be- 
tween 70  and  120  A.D.,  when  that  legion  was  stationed  on  the 
lower  Rhine. 

From  theFriedrich-Wilhelms-Platz  several  streets,  flanked  with 
handsome  shops,  lead  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Comfhausbai>-Stras8b, 
in  which,  opposite  the  bath-houses,  stands  the  Curhans  (PI.  D,  3), 
built  in  1782  and  forming  the  chief  centre  of  attraction  to  visi- 
tors ;  it  contains  a  large  ball  and  concert-room,  beautifully  fitted 
up  in  the  Renaissawce  style,  a  restaurant,  and  a  reading-room  (open 


10     Bouiel,  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  From  BruaseU 

till  10  p.m. ;  adm.  50  pf.,  to  concerts  and  celebrations  1  m.).  Ad- 
joining the  Gurhans,  but  facing  the  Onigarten,  is  tbe  Curtaal,  in 
the  Moorish  style,  completed  in  1864.  Concerts  take  place  here 
-weekly. 

In  the  old  *Redonte*,  Oomphansbad-Str.  11,  a  little  abore  the 
Curhaus,  is  the  *8nexmondt  Museum  (PL  D,  3),  the  chief  attraction 
of  which  is  a  collection  of  150  valuable  paintings  of  the  early-Ger- 
man, Flemish,  and  Spanish  schools,  presented  in  1882  to  his  native 
town  by  Herr  Bartholomew  Suermondt,  a  well-known  connoisseur 
and  patron  of  art.  Adm. :  Sun.  10-2,  gratis;  Tues.,  Wed.,  Thurs., 
11-2  and  3-5  (in  winter  10-2),  50  pf.;  at  other  times  3  m.  extra 
for  1-5  persons. 

Obocnd  Floor.  Boom  I.  (to  the  left),  a  broad  oonidoT  with  aneient 
German  and  Oriental  weapons.  —  B.  II.:  Lai^e  and  well-arranged  collec- 
tion of  German,  Italian,  Belgian  and  French  *Lace,  dating  from  the  16th, 
17th,  and  18th  cent. ;  French  and  Italian  Bilk-brocades,  14th-18th  cent. ; 
Oriental  examples  still  older.  —  B.  III. :  Gems,  coins  of  Aiz-la-Chapelle, 
views  of  the  town,  antique  vases,  a  few  Boman  antiquities  found  near 
the  town^  casts  of  antiquities  in  Aix-la-Chapelle  (continued  in  B.  IV), 
including  Charlemagne's  sarcophagus,  Otho  IIL'^s  altar-screen,  and  other 
objects  in  the  cathedral.  —  We  now  return  to  the  staiivcase  and  ascend 
to  the  — 

First  Floor.  On  the  stair-case:  altar-piece  by  Schadow^  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin ;  Boucher,  Portrait  of  Napoleon,  and  LtfkWt,  Portrait  of 
Josephine,  presented  by  Kapoleon  I.  to  the  town.  —  To  the  left  are  Two 
Booms  containing  a  good  collection  of  Bhenish  stone-ware  of  the  i6th- 
18th  cent.;  ancient  Boman  fused  glass,  small  Egyptian  antiquities,  an- 
tique table-implements  (knifes,  forks,  spoons),  small  ecclesiastical  and 
other  antiquities  in  gold,  enamel,  ivory,  bronze,  etc.  —  We  cross  the  hall 
to  the  — 

'^Picture  Gallery.  I.  Cabinet:  to  the  rieht,  199.  MurilWy  Madonna 
and  Child;  several  sketches  by  Van  Dyck;  197.  i*V.  HaU,  Merry  toper; 
208.  Terburgif),  Church-interior;  204.  Rembrandt,  St.  Jerome  (1630);  174. 
Cranach  the  Elder,  Judith.  —  II.  Cabinet:  94.  Ant,  Mor,  Portrait  ('Mar- 
gret  Halseber');  95.  P.  Moreelse,  Portrait  of  a  child  (1624);  114.  Ludger 
torn  Ring  (Westphalian  school),  Lady  of  fashion;  148.  School  of  Cologne 
(Meuter  Wilhelmt),  Altar-piece;  41.  Gov.  Flinch,  Portrait  of  a  young  lady% 
42.  Hieron.  Franek,  Ball  in  Venice;  123.  Sal.  van  Ruytdael,  View  of  the 
dunes  (1660) ;  P.  de  Hooch,  67.  Buined  castle,  68.  Buined  abbey.  —  III.  Ca- 
binet: 80.  Th.  de  Keyser,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  89,  87.  /.  van  der  Meer  van 
Haarlem,  Dutch  landscapes;  118.  Rtibens,  The  cock  and  the  iewel  Gand- 
scape  by  J.  WildeM)\  48.  Fr.  Hals,  Tobias  and  the  fish;  135.  Terburg, 
The  toilette ;  47,  48.  J.  van  Ooyen,  Dutch  landscapes ;  *'156.  Oerbr.  van  den 
Eeckhout  (or  Rembrandt),  Babbi ;  16.  Brekelenkam,  Fish-seller ;  *115.  Ru- 
bens, Studies  for  the  ^Fall  of  the  Damned',  at  Munich,  of  excellent  work- 
manship;  32.  A.  Cvyp,  Church-interior.  —  IV.  Cabinet :  1.  Will,  van  Atlst, 
Fish ;  129.  Fr.  Snyders,  Hawking  with  the  owl  (landscape  by  /.  Wildens) ; 
12.  F.  Sol,  Admiral  De  Buyter;  58.  Bart,  van  der  Heist,  Young  woman; 
160.  Luis  ds  Morales  (Spanish  School),  Ecce  Homo;  •145.  Corn,  de  Vos, 
Young  lady  of  fashion;  17.  Brekelenkam,  The  proposal;  86.  Jan,  van 
der  Meer  van  Delft,  View  of  Delft;  91.  P.  Meyerheim,  Savages  performing 
at  a  fair  (1873).  —  Large  Hall  (lighted  from  above):  beginning  on  the 
left,  KX).  Pedro  Orrente  (Spanish  school),  John  the  Bs^tist;  14.  Fr.  Bou- 
cher, The  Graces;  97.  Murillo,  Portrait  of  a  town-councillor;  81.  Th.  de 
Keyser,  Study  of  a  young  man;  151.  Fr.  de  Zurbaran  (Spanish  school), 
Holy  Family;  52.  Will.  Kl.  Heda,  Breakfast-table;  15.  Jan  de  Bray,  *In 
praise  of  salt-herring*;  132.  Jan  Steen,  Portrait  of  the  artist;  146.  Paul  de 
Vos,  Boar-hunt;  M.  d" Hondecoeter,  64.  Fieldfare,  65.  Hunting  gear;  66. 
Will,  van  Honthorst,  Princess  Henriette  Louise  of  Orange-Nassau,  afterwards 


to  Cotogne,  BURTSCHEID.  /.  flo«i€.    11 

-wiie  of  the  ^rafti  Bleetor*  of  Brftndenburg ;  29.  A'«<«r  Clmoie,  Beer-m«g 
luid  herring^  8S.  Juu  van  dtr  Mter  van  Haarlem^  BaginiuDg  of  the  wood. 
On  a  stand:  101.  Pieter  Aertten^  Vegetable  market;  *168.  Adr.  Bi'ouwer, 
Cutting  toma ;  Oerman  School^  Portrait  of  a  man.  Farther  on :  76.  Jac. 
Jordaeutj  Batyr  and  boy ;  121.  Jac,  vtm  Auttftfoel,  Cattle  in  a  hilly  land- 
gcape-,  122.  Jt.  van  Rvjiidaeiy  Dutch  landscape  4  13.  F»  Bol^  Oomelif  de 
Witt  and  bis  family  \  50.  Dirk  Hals ^  A  fashionable  company  j  101.  Adrian 
van  Oiictde,  Dnteh  peasant's  hat;  175.  A.  Cuyp^  Dutch  dnnes;  19.  Jan 
Mmtffhel^  Flenkish  landscape. 

The  building  behind  oontains  a  PiiTsiCAi«  Collbqtiok  (minenlSt  pa- 
Iseontological  specimens,  etc.). 

Near  the  Curhaus  is  the  Church  of  8t,  Peter  (PI.  D,  2),  built  in 
1714  and  recently  restored,  and  the  Synagogue  (P).  82;  D,  3),  in 
the  Moorish  style,  designed  by  Wickop.  Farther  to  the  S.,  in  the 
Adalbert- Strasse,  which  runs  off  the  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz 
(p.  9),  rises  the  Church  of  8t,  Adalbert  (Pi.  E,  3),  founded  by 
Otho  III.  in  1001  in  honour  of  St.  Adalbert  vho  "was  martyred  in 
Prussia.  This  building  has  been  much  altered  at  various  dates,  and 
was  almost  enturely  rebuilt  by  Wietkase  in  1873-76. 

In  the  Kaiser-Platz,  near  the  church,  rises  the  Kaiaerbrunnen, 
a  tasteful  fountain  erected  in  commemoration  of  the  'Golden  Wed- 
ding' of  the  Emperor  of  Gevmaiiy  in  1879.  —  More  to  the  E., 
in  the  Adalberts-Steinweg,  to  the  right,  is  a  Itind  of  marble  temple, 
erected  in  1844  to  commemorate  the  Congress  of  Aix  in  1818 
(PI.  F,  3,  4).  Adjoining  it  is  the  turreted  Qothio  Frison  (PI.  F,  4), 
by  Oremer.  —  Opposite  lies  the  Roman  Catholic  Cemetery  (PI.  F, 
G,  3),  containing  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  French  and 
German  soldiers  who  died  at  Aix*-la-Ghapelle  in  1870-71 . 

To  the  N.  of  the  Curhaus,  in  the  Monheims-Allee  and  at  the 
foot  of  the  Wingertsberg,  is  the  Mariahilf  Hospital  (PI.  D,  1,  2), 
built  in  1850,  with  pleasant  grounds,  open  to  the  public  daily 
(closed  12-3).  —  On  the  Salvatorberg  (PI.  C,  1),  to  the  N.W.,  is 
a  pilgrimage-church. 

The  "'Lonsberg  (859  ft.),  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  N.  of  the 
town  (PI.  B,  1 ;  cab,  see  p.  4),  and  rising  200  ft.  above  it,  ascend- 
ed in  40  min.  from  the  Marschier-Thor,  or  in  ^/^hi.  from  the  Pont- 
Thor,  is  laid  out  in  grovnds  and  shady  walks.  The  summit,  on 
which  rises  a  pyramid  (Belvedere,  with  restaurant  near  it) ,  com- 
mands a  fine  survey  of  the  busy  town  and  the  wooded,  undulating 
environs;  to  the  E.  lies  the  rich,  grassy  Soersthal,  with  numerous 
country-residences  and  coal-mines. 

Adjacent  to  Ais.  on  the  S.E.  side ,  and  connected  with  it  by 
promenades  and  new  buildings,  lies  the  town  of  — 

BtlxttCheid.  —  Baths  (comp.  PI.,  p.  4):  Carlsbad ^  Rotenbad^  both 
large  establishments;  MichaeUhad,  Schtcertbad,  etc.  —Visitors^  tax  at  the 
two  first  ^  m.,  at  the  others  1  m.  per  week. 

Burtscheid  or  Borcette,  with  12,144  inhab.  and  considerable 
manufactures  of  cloth  and  needles,  also  contains  important  baths. 
The  principal  springs  are  the  Victoriabrunr^en  (PI.  E,  6  j  140°  Fahr.), 
the  Kochbrunnen  (V\,  D,  6;  158<»),  and  a  drinking  spring  (162°), 


12  Route  1.  BURTSCHBID,  From  BfusseU 

which  together  yield  sneh  abundance  of  hot  water  as  to  form  a 
Warm  Brook,  adjoining  which  and  separated  from  it  by  a  footpath 
is  the  Cold  Brook.  On  an  eminence  in  the  centre  of  the  town  rises 
the  church  of  8t.  John  the  Baptist  (PI.  D,  £,  6),  which  formerly 
belonged  to  a  Benedictine  Abbey  founded  by  Emp.  Henry  II.  in 
1018,  but  has  been  remodelled  in  the  degraded  taste  of  last  cen- 
tury. The  Church  of  St  Michael,  with  a  lofty  tower,  also  on  the 
hill,  was  completed  in  1751.  —  To  the  N.£.  of  Burtscheid  is  the 
long  viaduct  of  the  Rhenish  Railway  (see  below). 

The  Frankenberg  (PI.  F,  6),  past  which  a  tramway  runs,  was  once  a 
hanting-seat  of  Charlemagne.  There  are  now  no  remains  of  the  original 
bnilding,  the  principal  part,  lately  restored,  dating  from  1642.  The  pond 
surrounding  the  castle  was  once  a  large  lake,  in  which,  according  to  tra- 
ditioi^,  was  sunk  the  magic  ring  of  Fastrada  (p.  i50),  the  third  wife  of  Char- 
lemagne. Attracted  to  this  spot  by. its  influence,  the  monarch  is  said 
to  have  sat  here  for  days,  gazing  on  the  lake,  and  mourning  for  his  lost 
consort.  The  ground  round  the  castle  has  been  laid  out  as  a  park  (Re- 
staurant; music  frequently  in  the  afternoon). 

About  '/«  ^  farther  in  the  same  direction,  beyond  the  railway,  is  Trim- 
horn,  a  grove  where  a  Roman  legion-stone  and  a  gigantic  sarcophagus 
were  discovered.  The  artificial  ruin  at  the  entrance  is  constructed  of  the 
fragments  of  a  chapel  of  the  time  of  Charlemagne.    Carriage  2V2-3  m. 

The  promenades  of  the  Oarlahtthe,  iVa  H.  to  the  S.W.  of  Aix,  V^  V* 
from  Ronheide  (station  on  the  line  to  Verviers  and  Li^e),  afford  the  nnest 
view  of  the  town.    Best  point  the  Eronprinzenratt.    Carriage  3-4  m. 

About  6  M.  to  the  8. W.  of  Aiz-la-Chapelle,  on  the  hill-side ,  stands 
the  ancient  Emmaburif,  a  castle  from  which  Eginhard,  the  private 
secretary  of  Charlemagne,  is  said  to  have  abducted  the  princess  Emma. 
It  may  be  reached  either  from  Hergenrath,  the  first  railway-station  towards 
Li^ge  (p.  4),  not  far  from  the  great  Odhl  Viaduct^  or  from  Moresnet,  the 
second  station  on  the  Welkenraedt  line.  The  neighbouring  cadmium-mines 
and  zinc-foundries  of  the  VieilU  Montagne  Companff  are  in  the  parish  of 
Moresnet,  which  is  neutral  ground  belonging  to  Prussia  and  Belgium  in 
common. 

From  Aix-la-Chapsllb  to  KAi.]fEDT,  52  M.,  in  S^s  hrs.  IV4  M*  R»the 
Erde,  see  p.  13.  Near  (5  M.)  Brandy  with  a  new  church,  are  the  water- 
works of  Aix,  erected  in  1871*80,  with  a  main  reservoir  capable  of  con- 
taining 5300  cbm.  of  water.  —  71/2  M.  Comelymiinater,  with  ttie  handsome 
late-Gothic  buildings  of  a  suppressed  Abbey  (now  a  Roman  CathoHc  se- 
minary), in  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  /nde,  at  the  foot  of  the  Hohe  Venn, 
on  the  Trfeves  road,  is  a  favourite  point  for  excursions.  —  10  M.  Walheim.  — 

13  M.,  Raeren,  famous  for  its  stoneware  in  the  16th  and  17th  cent.  This 
place,  as  well  as  the  next  stations,  (18>/2  M.)  Roetgen,  and  (24  M.)  Lam- 
mersdor/,  carries  on  active  trade  in  wood.  —  27  M.  Conzen. 

29y2  M.  Kontjoie  (Hotel  de  la  Tour;  Hembach),  a  manufacturing  town 
with  2110  inhab.,  lies  about  IV2  M.  from  the  station,  in  a  magnificent 
situation  on  both  sides  of  the  BoeTf  enhanced  by  two  ruined  castles.  The 
fortress,  founded  here  by  Charlemagne  on  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  stronghold 
CMons  Jovis'),  afterwards  passed  to  the  duchy  of  Limburg.  In  1815  it 
was  added  to  Prussia  along  with  the  whole  district  as  far  as  Kalmedy, 
the  inhabitants  of  which  still  speak  the  Walloon  dialect.  — -  Beyond 
Montjoie  the  railway  commands  a  picturesque  view  of  the  town  and  the 
deep  valley  of  the  Roer,  and  then  of  the  suppressed  convent  of  Reichea- 
stein.  —  34  M.  Kalterherbtrg.  —  SSVa  M.  Sourbrodt  is  the  highest  point 
of  the  line  (1840  ft.).  —  43  M.  Batgenbaeh.  At  (46  M.)  Weismet  the  line  forks, 
the  left  branch  (unfinished)  leading  to  8t.  Vith,  the  right  to  — 

60  M.  Kalmady  (Gheval  Blane),  a  town  with  6074  inhab.,  in  a  pictur- 
esque valley,  watered  by  the  Warche.  Halmedy  is  the  chief  town  in  that 
part  of  the  territory  of  the  immediate'  Benedictine  abbey  of  Stavelot- 
Malmedy  (founded  in  661),  which  fell  to  Prussia  in  1816.    The  W.  haK  of 


to  Cologne,  ESGHWEILER.  /.  Route.     13 

the  territory  belongs  to  Belgiam.  Tlie  WBter  of  the  numerons  ehalybeate 
springs  in  this  district  is  exported  in  Urge  qoAQtities.  —  A  diligence 
plies  twice  daily  from  lUlmedy  to  (5V.)  Staveloiy  crossing  the  Belgian 
frontier  about  half-way.       .  

RAII.WAY  TO  GoLOOKB  (44  M.,  in  IVr^  ^n» ;  fares  6,  41/21 
3  m. ;  express,  772>  41/3  m.).  Few  lines  exhibit  such  varied  forms 
of  railway  engineering  as  that  between  the  Belgian  frontier  and  Co- 
logne. On  leaving  the  station  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  the  train  crosses 
a  Viaduct  308  yds.  in  length ,  and  passes  the  Frankenberg  (to  the 
left,  see  above).  At  (iyi'Mi.')  Bothe  Erde,  the  'Hohe-Venn'  Railway 
diverges  to  the  S.  (see  p.  12).  The  train  then  passes  through  the 
Nirmer  Tunnel  (^2  M.),  traverses  the  Reichahuach  wood,  and  stops  at 
(101 M.)  StoWerg  Junction j  near  which  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
villa,  excavated  in  1881  (key  kept  at  the  station  refreshment-rooms). 
A  short  branch-railway  and  a  tramway  run  hence  viH  (i^/^M^^Stol' 
berg-Muhle  and  (2^3  M.)  Stolberg^ Hammer  to  Stolberg  (Keller; 
Scheufen;  Welter),  aprosperous  town  with  11,000  Inhabitants.  Stol- 
beTg  is  the  centre  of  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing 
districts  In  Germany,  the  numerous  products  of  which  are  sent  to 
every  part  of  tho  world.  For  the  foundation  of  Its  prosperity  it 
was  Indebted  to  French  Protestant  refugees,  who  established  brass- 
foundries  here  in  the  17th  oent.,  and  drove  a  thriving  trade.  The 
old  chStteau  is  supposed  to  have  once  been  a  hunting-seat  of  Charle- 
magne. 

The  principal  products  of  the  district  are  zinc,  lead,  and  silver ;  there 
are  also  manufactories  of  pins,  needles,  mirrors,  glass,  chemicals,  etc., 
the  fuel  consumed  by  whi6h  ia  yielded  in  abundance  by  the  coal-mines 
of  the  EichweiUr  Pumpe  (near  the  railway)  and  others  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. There  is  probably  no  other  locality  in  Germany  where  so  many 
branches  of  industry  are  so  successfully  prosecuted  within  so  small  a  space. 

Branch-line  from  Stolberg  to  (8  H.)  AUdorf  in  iV4  hr.  —  Another  line 
runs  from  Stolberg  by  Etchweiler  Aut  and  Escuweilbb  Csee  below)  to 
JthicB.  (p.  14),  whence,  united  with  the  Diiren^ulich  railway,  it  goes  on 
to  AmeleHy  Hoch-Ifeukirch,  Odeniircheny  Bhbtdt  (see  p.  50),  and  Gladbagh 
(see  p.  50).  —  A  third  line  runs  by  Weiderij  WUrtelen  (whence  there  is  a 
branch  to  Aix-la-Chapelle),  and  Qrevenhwg  to  (5  H.)  Morsbaeh. 

The  train  now  traverses  a  most  picturesque  district ,  with  nu- 
merous coal-mines  and  foundries.  Near  Eschweiler  it  crosses  the 
Indty  and  passes  through  a  tunnel. 

104  M.  Eiohwoiler  (*I>rieferJ,  a  busy  and  rapidly-growing  town 
of  16,900  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  in  a  valley,  with  a  castel- 
lated hospital.  The  forges,  foundries,  puddling-works,  and  factories 
in  the  immediate  neighhourhood  employ  3000  workmen. 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  near  Nothbergj  rises  the  Rottger  SeMoss^ 
an  ancient  castle  with  four  towers.  Among  the  hills  to  the  right 
are  several  villages,  including  Werth,  the  supposed  birthplace  of 
the  celebrated  Imperial  general  John  of  Werth  (d.  1651),  and  (7res- 
senieh,  the  ancient  royal  residence  of  Orassiniaeum,  near  which  are 
extensive  mines  of  eadminm,  iron,  and  lead-ore,  once  worked  by 
the  Romans,  as  pvored  by  Roman  coins  found  in  them. 


14     BouU  1.  DUB£N. 

lOQ  M.  Langtnotike  (Sohatieiibof),  a  village  with  1700  Inb&b., 
near  which  is  a  large. needle-manufactory. 

The  route  from  Langerwebe  through  the  Wehnthal-^  to  the  Roerthal 
is  pleasanter  than  that  from  Diiren  (see  below).  Passing  the  needle- 
factory  and  the  grounds  of  Herr  Schleicher  we  reach  (2  H.)  ScMnihal 
(Schontbalet  HoQ,  which  is  much  frequented  in  aumiier,  and  (*/4  M.) 
Wenau  (Huppertz),  with  an  old  abbey-church.  The  way  then  leads  through 
beautiful  woods  to  (6  M.)  ffUrtgen  and  (i'/t  M.)  Bergxtein  (see  below). 

The  apurs  of  the  Elfel  are  eeen  on  the  right.  At  the  base  of 
the  wooded  heights  of  the  Hochwald  on  the  right  lies  the  village  of 
MerodCf  1^2  M.  from  Langerwehe,  and  3  M.  from  Diiren,  with  a 
handfome  old  turreted  chateau,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  the 
seat  of  a  wealthy  Belgian  family.    The  train  crosses  the  Boer, 

11472  M.  BuienfEotelMommer;  WindheuMr,  moderate;  Bhein- 
hcher  Hof),  the  Mareodurum  of  Tacitus,  a  busy  town  of  19,800 
inhab.,  with  manufactoriea  of  cloth,  paper,  iron,  etc.,  is  situated 
on  the  Boer  (proa.  Boor')  in  a  fertile  plains  The  most  coDspicuous 
object  in  the  town  is  the  lofty  tower. of  the  church  of  3t.  Anna.  Te 
the  right  of  the  station  are  the  buildings  of  the  Lunatic  mi^  Blind 
Aayluma  for  the  district,  erected  by  subscription  in.  1842.  The 
liathhauB  contains  a  good  CoUeeiion  of  Antiquities, 

The  YaUey  of  the  Boer  presents  some  very  picturesque  points  above 
KreuzaUt  a  village  3  H.  to  the  S.  of  Diiren,  on  the  road  to  Kideggen  (9V2  9'. ; 
omn.  5  times  daily).  Pedestrians  diverge  here  to  the  right  from  the  road 
and  ascend  the  valley,  which  gradually  contracts  and  ia  bounded  by  lafty 
sandstone  rocks,  to  (V*  hr.)  Windetiy  (}/t  hr.)  Unter-Matibachy  (Vi  hr.)  Ober- 
Maubach.  We  then  descend  to  the  left  by  the  chapel,  pass  the  first  side- 
valley,  and  ascend,  opposite  the  Jfausaul  rocks,  to  the  village  ot  Bergstein, 
which  has  long  been  visible  C^Jansen,  unpretending).  Before  reaching  the 
wooded  summit  of  the  Burgberg  we  have  a  fine  survey  of  the  Roerthal^  and 
from  the  top  we  obtain  a  superb  view  of  the  ruins  of  Nideggen.  We  then 
descend  the  Roerthal  to  Zevkall^  and  again  ascend  to  fl'A  hr.)  Nideggen 
Cffeiligey;  MUllei\  moderate),  situated  on  a  rock  rising  precipitously 
from  the  Roer ,  and  crowned  with  the  conspicuous  ruins  of  a  castle  dat- 
ing from  1180.  which  was  once  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Counts  of 
Jiilich  (adm.  25  pf.).  Following  the  valley  beyond  Nideggen,  the  traveller 
next  reaches  (Vahr.)  Abenden^  (20  min.)  BlenSy  (20  min.)  HauseUf  and  the 
strikingly-picturesque  village  of  Heimbach  (Post;  Scheid)  with  the  in- 
significant ruin  of  Hengebach.  The  church  contains  a  carved  altar  of  the 
19th  century.  From  Heimbach,  Ziilpich  (p.  189)  may  be  reached  by  dili- 
gence in  2V4  hrs.  A  picturesque  walk,  chiefly  through  wood,  descends 
from  the  Trappist  convent  of  Maria-Wald  near  Heimbach,  vi&  Wol/sgarten 
to  (4V2  M.)  Gemand  (p.  190). 

Fbom  Dubek  to  KeusSj  3OV2  M. ,  railway  in  1 V*  hr.  -,  stations  EUdovf^ 
Bedburgy  Hwffy  Orevenbroieh^  Capellen-WeviUnghwen.  -IfensSy  see  p.  47. 

PftOM  DfiBEK  TO  JOlioh  (9»/»  M.)  in  25-80  min.  (Im.  20,  90,  70  pf.). 
Jiilich  or  Juliert  (Bmrnann;  Q,uw:k)y  the  capital  of  the  ancient  duchy  of 
that  name,  has  belonged  to  Prussia  since  1814.  The  fortifications  were 
dismantled  in  1860.  From  Jiilich  to  Gladbach,  see  p.  13.  Jiilich  is  now 
also  connected  with  Aiz-Ia-Chapelle  (17  M.)  by  a  direct  line  via  HUngen 
and  WUrsatn  (p.  13). 

From  Diiren  to  Swkirchen  and  Trkvei,  see  R.  26. 

120  M.  Buir,  127  M.  Horrem  lies  in  the  luxuriant  vale  of  the 
Erfty  which  abounds  with  seats  of  the  Rhenish  noblesse.  To  the  left 
the  chateaux  of  Frenz  and  Hemmersbachi  or  HorrMier  Burg* 


ROTX&BDAM.  2.  RouU,     15 

From  Horrem  «  pleasftnt  excarfion  may  be  made  to  (2V9  M.)  Seken- 
dorf  (*Hdt.  Scbendorf),  and  tbence  either  vi&  the  old  convent  of  Kdnigt- 
dorf  (now  a  farm)  to  the  atation  of  the  same  name  (see  above) ;  or  vift 
Baron  von  Oppenheim's  chateau  of  BtkUndwhahm  to  (iV?  M.)  QuMdrath 
and  on  past  (fys  H.)  BtrghHm^  a  pretty  little  town  on  the  Erft,  to  (4Va  M.) 
the  station  of  Elsdorf  (p.  14). 

The  Erftthal  Is  quitted  by  the  KSnigsdorf  tunnel,  1  M.  long. 
Then  — 

130^2  M.  Konigsdorfj  to  the  right  beyond  which,  in  the  distance, 
is  the  village  of  BrauweiUt ,  with  an  ancient  Benedictine  Abbey, 
now  a  reformatory.  The  old  Abbey  Churchf  erected  in  the  13th  cent., 
in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  contains  an  interesting  engraved 
tomb-stone  of  1483,  and  some  ancient  frescoes  on  the  vaulting  of 
the  chapter-house,  both  valuable  in  the  history  of  art. 

As  Cologne  is  approached  the  line  traverses  a  fertile  plain, 
studded  with  detached  houses  and  factories.  The  hills  to  the  right 
are  spurs  of  the  Vorgebirgej  a  low  range  which  begins  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Rhine  between  Cologne  and  Bonn. 

133  M.  Lovenich.  —  137  M.  Ehrenfeldy  a  busy  manufacturing 
town  with  18,245  inhab.,  founded  1840-45. 

138V2  M.  Ck>Iogiie,  see  R.  3. 


2.  From  Rotterdam  to  Cologne. 

Comp.  Map  J  p.  18, 

Railway  (1)  by  Utrecht,  Zevenaar,  Emmerich,  Oberhausen,  and 
Dusseldorfj  (2)  by  Utrecht,  Zevenaar,  Cleve,  and  Crefeld.  Express  by 
both  lines  in  6  hrs.  (fares  12  florins  70  cents ,  10  fl. ,  6  fl.  40  c).  Exami- 
nation of  luggage  at  the  Prussian  cnstom<hoase  at  Eltea.  (The  Dutch  florin, 
or  guilder,  worth  U.  S(/.,  is  divided  into  100  cents.) 

Steamboats  daily  (corresponding  thrice  weekly  with  steamers  from 
London)  in  30  hrs. ;  fares  4  fl.  42  c,  or  3  fl. ;  100  lbs.  of  luggage  free. 
Prussian  custdm-house  at  Emmerich. 

B4>tterdam*ff  —  Hotels.  *Bath  Hotbl,  near  the  steamboat- piers ^ 
^ViGToaiA,  Willemsplein;  *Pats  Bab,  in  the  Korte  Hoogstraat,  similar 
charges.   *'St.  Lucas,  *H6t£L  db  Hollands,  Hoo^straat,  second-class. 

Cab  per  drive  without  luggage,  1-2  pers.  60  c,  3-4  pers.  70  c.\  per 
hr.  1  fl.  20  0. ;  to  or  from  any  of  the  railway-stations,  with  luggage  1  fl. 
—  The  Bhenish  Rail.  Station  is  not  far  from  the  London  steamboat-piers, 
and  is  opposite  that  of  the  Harwich  boat.  Omn.  to  or  from  the  hotels  25  c. 

En^sh  Ohuroh,  Haringvliet;  Presbyterian  Churchy  Schotsche  Dijk. 

BoUerdcmij  with  170,000  inhab.,  the  second  oommereial  town  in 
Holland,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Afooj,  about  14  M.  from 
the  Oevman  Ocean.  It  is  intersected  by  numerous  oanal?  (grachteny 
or  h(wen8)y  which  give  the  town  a  very  picturesque  appearance ;  and 
numerous  drawbridges  (ophacUbruffpenJ  afford  communication  be- 
tween the  various  quarters  of  the  town. 

A  huge  dyke  or  embankment  runs  through  the  centre  of  the 
town,  protecting  the  lower  quarters  (Binnenstad)  from  inundation 


Boiiwid. 


+  For  a  ftiller  description  of  Dutch  towns  see  Batdtker's  Belgium  and 

iMtA 


16     Route  2,  ARNHEM.  From  BoUerdam 

during  high  tide.  The  Boogstraat,  or  high  street,  is  bnilt  on  this 
dyke ;  and  the  finest  part  of  the  town ,  the  Buitenstad ,  is  situated 
between  this  street  and  the  Maas. 

About  4000  sea-going  vessels  annually  enter  and  quit  the  port, 
and  the  traffic  with  the  Upper  Rhine  by  means  of  barges,  towed  by 
powerful  tug-steamers,  is  very  considerable.  Rotterdam  also  contains 
a  number  of  manufactories  and  distilleries. 

The  traveller's  leisure  had  better  be  devoted  to  a  walk  on  the 
busy  quay  (Boompjes) ;  to  the  Gothic  Church  of  8t.  Lawrence 
(Oroote  Kerk) ,  a  brick  building  dating  from  1472 ,  and  containing 
the  monuments  of  Admiral  de  Witt  and  other  celebrated  Dutchmen ; 
and  to  Boyman^s  Museum^  a  very  fair  collection  of  pictures,  open 
daily  except  Mondays.  Those  who  have  a  day  at  their  disposal  are 
recommended  to  spend  it  at  the  Hague  (by  railway  in  ^/^  hr. ;  see 
Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland'). 

The  district  traversed  by  the  railway  is  perfectly  flat,  lying  con- 
siderably below  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  is  excluded  by  means  of 
carefully-constructed  dykes  and  embankments.  Canals,  pasture-land, 
and  occasional  windmills  are  the  principal  features  of  the  scenery. 
The  first  station  of  importance  is  — 

1272  M.  Gtouda,  or  Ter  Oouw  (*De  Zalm,  In  the  market-place), 
on  the  Ysself  with  17,400  Inhab.,  the  staple  eommodities  of  which 
are  bricks,  clay-pipes,  and  an  inferior  kind  of  cheese.  The  principal 
church  (Oroote  or  Jana  Kerk)  contains  some  fine  old  stained  glass. 

38  M.  TFtrecht  (^Pays  Bas;  de  VEurope;  BeUevue;  *Oude 
Kaiteel  van  Antwtrptn ;  Hotel  de  la  Station ,  at  the  station) ,  the 
^Oude  Trecht*  or  old  ford,  the  Trajeetum  ad  Rhenum  of  the  Romans, 
is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  Holland  (pop.  74,300).  It 
belonged  at  one  time  to  Lorraine ,  then  to  the  German  Empire, 
and  was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  emperors.  Here  in  1579 
the  union  of  the  seven  provinces  Holland,  Zeeland,  Utrecht, 
Guelders ,  Over-Tssel ,  Friesland ,  and  Groningen  was  effected,  and 
William  I.  of  Orange  was  created  stadtholder.  In  1672  Louis  XIY. 
took  possession  of  the  town  and  levied  an  enormous  contribution. 
The  well-known  Peace  of  Utrecht,  which  ended  the  Spanish  War  of 
Succession,  was  concluded  here  in  1713.  —  The  Rhine  divides  here 
into  two  arms :  the  Old  Rhine,  falling  into  the  German  Ocean  near 
Katwyk,  and  the  Veehty  falling  into  the  Zuider  Zee. 

Utrecht  was  celebrated  at  a  very  early  period  for  its  floe 
churches ,  the  most  interesting  of  which  is  the  *Caihedraly  founded 
in  720,  and  dating  in  its  present  form  from  1254-67.  The  C/ni* 
versityj  founded  in  1636,  is  attended  by  upwards  of  500  students. 

Beyond  Utrecht  the  line  crosses  the  canal  (Rynvaart)  which 
unites  the  town  with  the  Lek.  Pleasant  retrospect  of  Utrecht.  To 
the  right  and  left  are  four  intrenchments  (lunettes)  ,  now  disused. 
The  country  is  fertile  and  weU-cultivated.  At  (45  M.)  Zeist  (near 
which  is  Driebergen)  there  is  a  Moravian  colony ;  then  stations  Maars' 


to  Cologne.  WESBI/.  2.  Route.     17 

berffen^  and  Veenendaalj  with  numerous  apiaries.  The  line  intersects 
the  extensive  moor  of  the  Veluwe^  which  extends  as  far  as  the 
Znlder  Zee.  Stat.  WolfheKm,  then  — 

731/2  M.  Arnhem  (^Zon,  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  nearest 
the  rail.  stat.  and  the  pier  of  the  Netherlands  Co. ;  Pay^^Bas^  in 
the  Oroote  Markt,  not  far  from  the  pier  of  the  Cologne  and  Dussel- 
dorf  Co. ;  ^Zwynshoofd ,  In  the  town ;  BeiUvue ,  l/l  ™**®  ^- 
yond  the  Zon,  prettily  situated ;  *De  Paautfj  near  the  station,  t2nd 
class),  with  45,370  inhab.  (nearly  ^^Rom.  Cath.),  long  the  seat  of 
the  Dnkes  ot  Guelders ,  is  still  the  capital  of  that  province.  Al- 
though a  good  specimen  of  a  clean  Dutch  town,  it  offers  little  to  detain 
the  traveller.  The  Qrooie  Kefk  contains  monuments  of  the  Dnkes 
of  Guelders.  The  Town  Hall  derives  its  local  appellation  of  Dui" 
velshuU  (^devirs  house')  from  the  grotesque  figures  which  adorn  it. 

The  environs  far  surpass  those  of  any  other  Dutch  town  in 
attraction.  The  grounds  of  ^Sonsbeek  deserve  a  visit  (entrance 
near  tho  station,  ^2  ^-  ^  ^^^  ^-  of  the  town).  They  are  open  to  the 
public  (visitors  ring  the  *Bel  voor  den  Poortler*).  The  custodian, 
who  also  shows  the  Belvedere  Tower,  which  commands  a  fine  view, 
lives  at  the  entrance  (fee  for  1  per*.  V2  fl>  ^oi  *  P*i*y  1-2  fl.). 

Immediately  below  the  town  is  the  Beeherg ,  a  slight  eminence 
with  pleasure-grounds.  Higher  up  is  the  country-seat  of  Heidenoord, 
adjoining  which  are  pleasant  walks  through  the  woods  in  all  di- 
rections. In  the  opposite  direction ,  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  Arnhem, 
lies  the  thriving  village  of  Velp,  on  the  hills  near  which  ax^Roosen" 
doaf  (with  inn),  Beekhuiten,  and  other  beautiful  parks  and  pleasure- 
gronnds,  all  open  to  the  public.  —  Railway  to  Zutphen  and  Salz- 
bergen,  see  Baeddcer^s  N.  Oermany, 

82  M.  Zevenaar  is  the  Dutch,  87  M.  EUen  the  Prussian  frontier- 
station.  Hence,  crossing  the  Rhine,  to  Cleve  and  Cologne,  see  R.  4. 

The  line  by  Diisseldorf  to  Cologne  remains  on  the  right  bank. 

93 M.  Emmerich  (^HdUl  Royal;  Ho f  von  Holland ;  H6UI  Bahn- 
hof;  Rhein.  Hof,  R.  ft  B.  2V2inO  is  &  clean  Dutch-looking  town. 
At  the  upper  end  rises  the  Gothic  spire  of  the  Aldegmkd^Kirche^ 
at  the  lower  is  the  Mtunsier^  in  the  transition-style  of  the  11th  and 
12th  centuries. 

95 V2  ^*  Praest;  100  M.  Empel  (omnibus  five  times  daily  to  Bees, 
an  old  town  on  the  Rhine,  IV2  M.  distant);  IO2V2  M.  Haldem; 
106  M.  Meerhoog ;  then  — 

114  m.  Weiel  (^JOornbusch ;  Oiesen,  R.  &  B.  21/2  m-,  well  spoken 
of),  a  strongly-fortified  town,  with  20,663  inhab.,  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Rhine  and  Lippe.  The  handsome  RathhcniSj  lately 
restored,  and  embellished  with  modern  statues  on  the  fa^de,  dates 
from  1396.  8t,  WiUibrord^s  Church,  originally  a  fine  Gothic  edifice 
of  the  12th  cent.,  but  long  little  more  than  a  ruin  with  a  roof, 
is  now  being  restored.  It  contains  a  marble  tablet  recording  that 
Peregrine  Bertie,  son  of  Willoughby  d'Kresby  and  Catherine,  Dnchess 

BAaBEKKR'a  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  2 


18     Route  2,  DCSSELDORF.  From  BotUrdatn 

of  Suffolk,  was  born  here  in  1555.  The  exiles  were  Protestants, 
who  had  fled  from  the  persecutions  of  Queen  Mary,  and  were  per- 
mitted by  the  magistrates  of  Wesel  to  take  up  their  quarters  in  the 
ohuroh ,  then  unoccupied.  In  1882  an  iron  tower  was  added  to 
the  Mathenakirche.  Among  the  handsomest  modern  buildings  are 
the  OymnMium  and  the  MUUary  Hospital.  In  the  Exercier  Plaiz^ 
near  the  station,  is  a  Monument  on  the  spot  where  11  Prussian  officers 
of  Von  8ehilt$  Corps,  captured  by  the  French  in  Stralsund,  were 
shot  in  1809.  The  town  is  joined  by  a  bridge-of-boats  with  the 
island  otBuderieh  and  Fort  Blixeher^  the  tete-de-pont  on  the  left 
bank.  The  riyer  is  also  spanned  here  by  the  large  railway-bridge 
of  the  OeLdtm-Venlo  and  Goeh^Boxttl  lines,  for  which,  as  well 
as  for  the  branch-line  to  BochoU  and  Winterswyk,  see  Baedeker  a 
Belgium  and  HoUand, 

The  train  crosses  theLlppe  and  traverses  aflat  and  bleak  district. 
122  M.  Dinslaken  Ues  IV2  M.  from  the  Rhine,  on  which,  3  M. 
higher  up ,  is  the  old  town  of  Oraoy ,  formerly  fortified.  128  M. 
Sterkrade  (with  an  extensive  foundry). 

131 M.  OhethAnaenfUof  von  Holland ;  *Rail.  Restaurant),  9.  ioyfn 
of  recent  origin,  with  20, 377  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Cologne- 
Minden,  Mtilheim,  Ruhrort,  Wesel-Emmerlch ,  and  Altenessen- 
Munster-Bremen  lines.  Extensive  iron  works  in  the  vicinity  (p.  52). 

136  M.  'Dxd9!bTag(*Europai8cher  Hof;  Ho  f  von  Holland ;  Harke; 
Kaiserhof ;  Print  Regent),  a  very  ancient  town ,  situated  neax  the  Rhine 
and  the  Ruhr,  is  connected  with  both  rivers  by  means  of  a  canal. 
It  is  now  a  rapidly-increasing  manufacturing  town,  with  47,517  in- 
hab.,  and  one  of  the  chief  dep6ts  of  the  Ruhr  coal-trafflc.  The  *8al- 
vatorkirche,  of  the  15th  cent.,  restored  in  1850,  contains  an  epitaph 
to  the  memory  of  the  geographer  Gerhard  Mercator,  who  died  here 
in  1694.  Fine  view  from  the  Kaiserberg  (Wilhelmshohe  Inn),  on 
the  way  to  Mulheim,  1  M.  firom  the  station.  Railway  to  Bochum 
and  Dortmund,  see  Baedeker^ a  JV.  Germany. 

The  following  stations  are  Grossenbaum  and  Calcum. 

151  M.  Niseldorf.  —  Eailway  SUtion*.  The  station  of  the  Right- 
Rhenish  RaUway  for  Elberfeld,  Troisdoirf,  and  Speldorf  is  on  the  E.  side 
(PI.  D,  2).  those  of  the  Cologne- Minden  and  the  Bergisch-Markisch  lines  on 
the  8.  siae  of  the  town  (PI.  B.  C,  4).  The  station  of  the  last,  a  very  hand- 
some building,  is  connected  with  the  first-mentioned  station  by  a  tramway- 
line.  A  large  central  railway  station  is  in  course  of  construction.  —  The 
Bergisch-Harkisch  line  has  another  station  at  Obercassel,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Rhine  (PI.  A,  3). 

Hotels.  *Bb£idbnbacIieb  Hof  (PI.  a^  B,3),  B.  3,'L.  1,  A.  Vsj  B-  l^A  ^-^ 
''R6ish  Thukobn  (KaiserUcher  Bo/;  PI.  d;  B,  4),  at  the  Bergisch-Harkisch 
Station.  —  Hotkl  Heck,  Blumen-Str.,  between  the  Hofgarten  and  the 
Kdnigsplafz  (PI.  C,  3),  new;  •Romischkr  Kaiser  (PL  c^  A,  B,  3,  4),  Ben- 
rather-Str.  3,  with  good  cuisine  and  wine,  R.  Vh-2,  A.  Vz  ™-  5  "Kolnischer 
Hop  (PL  e;  B,  3),  at  the  corner  of  the  Flinger-Str.  and  Mittel-Str.  •,  Euro- 
pean HoTEi.  (PL  h ',  B.  4),  Petzold,  both  opposite  the  Cologne-Minden 
Station;  Post  (Kaleitch)^  Casernen-Str.,  opposite  the  post-office,  with 
restaurant;  R6oembsro,  Benrather-8tr.  14,  R.  lV2-2m.*,  Altes  Kaffee- 
HAO8,  Andreas-Str.  1.  —  *Frau  BOhmer'^e  Peneionf  Rosenstr.  49  (4  m.  per  day). 


+..iV 


a* 


__^ A!tlii.?v«^ 


lLAu£  M. 

Sfl.AaritAoMj-        .     .  JUS. 


L^vkL'NJMii-Aid"  lot' 


ft.*J 


to  Cologne.  dCSSELBORF.  2.  Route.     19 

Beitaurajits.  In  the Breidei^eher Bo/^  sea  Above;  at  the  Cologne- Minden 
and  BergUch-MMrkiich  StaUons.  *£UpperM,  Klb«rfelder-8tr.  11;  Btulen, 
Berger-8tr.  35;  KaUtrgartM,  Karls-Plate  18;  Diek^  2oU-Str.  9.  *Tonhalle 
(PI.  24;  C,  3),  a  favourite  place  of  recreation,  with  a  large  garden  and 
coneert-rooms  (mnsie  several  times  a  week,  sympliony-concert  on  Sat.)-  — 
Oafes.  *Oei»l€ry  confectioner,  Allee-8tr.  i2\  Neuhuui^  on  the  Ananasberg 
(p.  22k  also  restaurant.  —  Beer.  Ahmer^  Hohe-8tr.  32;  'Butcher^  Ost- 
8tr.  87;  Behtntrix  (Kalser-Saal),  Oasernen-Str.  29;  SarM,  Harold- Str.  18. 
—  Bi*heUerbwg  (PI.  B,  2),  popular  on  summer  evenings,  with  view. 

Bafh  BaUbHahmenta,  in  the  Rhine,  see  PI.  A,  2. 

Oaba.  Per  drive  for  1-2  persons  60,  for  each  addit.  pers.  25  pf.  —  Tram- 
wayi  traverse  the  town  and  suburbs. 

PMt  Office  (PI.  18),  at  the  comer  of  the  Kasemen-Str.  and  Harold-Str. 

Telegraph  Of&ee,  Konigs-Allee  29. 

Fietnre  Galleries.  *8chulWi^  Allee-Str.  42,  where  not  only  the  finest 
new  works  of  the  Diisaeldorf  school,  but  a  number  of  masterpieces  of  the 
earlier  part  of  the  present  century  are  exhibited  (most  of  them  fur  sale).  — 
Bismeyer  it  Kraut,  Elberfelder-Str.  5 :  works  of  the  Dusseldorf ,  and  also 
of  the  Berlin,  Munich,  French,  Belgian,  and  Dutch  schools.  Admission  to 
eaoh  of  these  galleries  60  pf. 

Britiah  Consul  for  Westphalia  and  the  Bhenish  Provinces :  ThoM.  R.  Mnl- 
9auey,  Btq.^  Pempelfort.  •—  American  Oenaul:  D.  J.  Fariello,  Bsq, 

Bngliu  Okureh  Berviee  at  10-30  a.m.,  in  the  smaller  Protestant  Church, 
Berger^Strasse. 

DOsaeldorf,  the  capital  of  the  district  of  that  name,  with  115,183 
Inhab. ,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of  the  Dussel" 
baeh.  It  is  of  comparatively  modern  origin,  and  with  the  exception 
of  some  of  the  oldest  streets  is  a  pleasant  and  well-bnilt  town.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent,  it  was  chosen  as  a  residence  by  the 
Dukes  of  Berg,  and  on  their  becoming  extinct  in  1609  it  continued 
to  be  the  residence  of  the  Princes  Palatine  till  1716,  who  then  trans- 
ferred their  seat  to  Mannheim,  and  afterwards  to  Munich.  In  1806- 
13  Dusseldorf  belonged  to  France,  and  in  1816  it  became  Prussian. 

Recently  BUsseldorf  has  become  an  important  industrial  and 
commercial  town,  though  the  manufactories  are  comparatively  un- 
obtrusive.  It  is  chiefly  celebrated,  however,  as  a  school  of  art. 

The  Academy  of  Art,  founded  by  the  Elector  Charles  Theodore  in 
1767 ,  which  rose  to  some  importance  towards  the  close  of  last  century, 
sustained  a  severe  loss  by  the  removal  to  Munich  in  1806  (on  the  pretext 
of  Withdrawing  it  from  the  perils  of  war)  of  its  celebrated  picture-gal- 
lery,  the  chief  source  of  art  instruction  at  that  period,  and  now  the 
mrOSt  valuable  part  of  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich.  Under  the  French  sway 
it  declined  still  farther.  In  1820  Petek  Cobnelius  (born  at  Dasseldorf 
1788,  died  at  Berlin  1867),  who  had  hitherto  painted  in  Borne,  was 
appointed  director  by  the  Prussian  government,  and  under  his  auspices 
the  Academy  rapidly  acquired  new  importance.  But  the  monumental 
painting,  which  Cornelius  exclusively  cultivated,  never  became  thoroughly 
naturalised  here,  because  the  master,  along  with  the  majority  of  his 
pupils,  i^nt  one  half  of  the  year  in  painting  the  frescoes  of  the  Glypto- 
thek  at  Munich,  and  the  other  half  to  a  great  extent  in  preparing  cartoons 
for  the  same. work.  In  the  Bhenish  towns,  however,  there  are  a  few  at- 
tempts at  mural  painting  belonging  to  tiiis  period  (e.g.  at  Bonn  and  Co- 
blenz).  The  true  golden  era  of  the  Dusseldorf  school  did  not  begin 
till  18127  when  W.  Bchadaw  (b.  1789,  d.  1862)  became  director,  especially 
as  he  lirdught  with  him  from  Berlin  his  talented  pupils  /.  ffUbner,  Jffil- 
debrandti  LesHn^y  8ohn,  and  Bendemann,  while  J.  W.  Schirmer,  a  classical 
landscape-painter  of  Cornelius's  school,  still  remained  at  Dusseldorf.  Sever- 
al of  Bebadow's  pupils  and  contemporaries  soon  rivalled  or  even  surpass- 
ed their  master,  while  he  himself  abandoned  the  monumental  andclassic 

2* 


20    Route  2.  DtJSSELDORF.  From  Rotterdam 

fresco  style  of  Cornelius  and  devoted  bimself  to  a  somewhat  naturalistic 
genre  style  which  was  more  congenial  to  him,  and  to  the  mastering  of 
the  technical  difficulties  of  painting  in  oils.  Shortly  after  his  appoint- 
ment the  Academy  could  boast  of  three  hundred  pupils. 

Towards  the  year  1840,  howerer,  there  unfortunately  sprang  up  reli- 
gious dissensions,  in  which  the  Roman  Catholic  element  obtained  the 
mastery,  and  which  proved  destructive  of  the  patriarchal  peace  and 
unanimity  which  had  hitherto  prevailed  at  the  Academy.  As  early  as 
1838  Bendemann  and  Htibner  had  migrated  to  Dresden ,  while  the  rising 
generation  of  painters  who  remained  at  Diisseldorf  compensated  in  some 
degree  for  this  loss  by  their  vigorous  and  well-coloured  landscapes  and 
genre-pieces,  adhering  chiefly  to  French  or  Belgian  types;  but  the  old 
'esprit  de  corps'  and  coherence  of  the  'school'  was  gone.  In  1854  Schir- 
mer,  and  in  1858  Lessing  quitted  the  Academy  for  appointments  at  Carls- 
ruhe.  In  1869,  on  the  retirement  of  Schadow,  whose  eyesight  had  begun 
to  fail,  Bendemann  was  summoned  from  Dresden  to  undertake  the  directo- 
rate, but  the  condition  of  the  school  remained  unaltered ,  and  at  length 
in  1868  this  master  also  resigned  his  post.  Since  that  period  the  most 
prominent  members  of  the  Academy  have  been  Deger^  the  celebrated 
painter  of  religious  scenes ,  and  his  followers  Andrea*  and  Carl  MiUler^ 
lUenbach,  and  Lauenstein^  while  Bendemann  himself,  the  brothers  Andreas 
and  Oswald  Achenbach^  Knaus  (who  went  to  Berlin  in  1875),  Vautiery  and 
other  talented  masters  continued  to  paint  at  Diisseldorf  independently  of 
the  present  school.  The  Academy  is  now  under  the  directorate  of  three 
professors  elected  by  their  colleagues,  and  at  pifesent  there  are  signs  of  a 
revival  of  its  reputation. 

In  the  heart  of  the  older  part  of  the  town,  with  its  narrow  and 
irregular  streets,  stands  the  old  electoral  Palace  (PI.  1 ;  A,  3),  long 
the  seat  of  the  Academy  of  Art  (see  p.  21),  which  oivas  remodelled 
In  1710,  restored  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1846,  and  almost  en- 
tirely burned  down  in  1872.  In  front  of  the  palace  is  the  exten- 
sive National  Library,  In  the  palace-yard  rises  a  Statue  in  marble 
of  Elector  John  William  (d.  1716),  who  was  born  at  Diisseldorf.  On 
the  Rhine,  to  theW.  of  the  palace-yard,  i%X\iQ  Art- Industrial  School^ 
an  edifice  in  the  French  Renaissance  style,  built  hy  Westhofen  in 
1882;  it  contains  an  InduitridL  Museum  (adm.  daily,  except  Mon., 
50  pf. ;  Wed.,  free). 

In  the  Market  Place  (PI.  A,  B,  3),  in  front  of  the  Rathhaus 
(PI.  20),  a  building  half  in  the  Gothic  and  half  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  built  in  1567,  rises  an  equestrian  Statue  of  Elector  Jolrn 
William  (PI.  5),  in  bronze,  over  life-size,  by  Grupello^  dating 
from  1711,  erected  according  to  the  inscription  by  the  citizens,  but 
in  reality  by  the  elector  himself.  —  In  the  neighbouring  Bolker 
Strasse  Heinrich  Heine  was  bom  in  1799  (d.  1856). 

The  Maximilians '  Pfarrkirche ,  formerly  the  church  of  the 
Franciscans  (Pi.  15 ;  A,  3),  contains  frescoes  by  Settegast  (above  the 
high-altar)  and  Molitor. 

The  Church  of  St.  Lambert  (PI.  14;  A,  2),  a  Gothic  edifice  of 
the  14th  cent. ,  with  a  tower  partly  Romanesque,  contains  at  the 
back  of  the  high-altar  the  Monument  In  marble  of  William  IV.  (d. 
1592)  and  John  William  III.  (d.  1609),  the  last  two  dukes  of  Cleve 
and  Berg,  and  of  other  members  of  their  family,  erected  in  1629. 
There  is  also  an  *Antependium',  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  the 


toCoioyne.  DUSSBLDORF.  2,  £oii<e.     21 

patrons  of  the  church,  painted  and  presented  by  A.  Aehenbaeh,  on  the 
occasion  of  his  joining  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Adjoining  the 
sacristy  a  flne  old  mural  painting  has  recently  been  discovered  and 
restored.  On  the  exterior  of  the  N.  side  of  the  church  is  a  crucifixion, 
with  numerous  figures,  sculptured  in  stone  in  the  16th  cent.,  suc- 
cessfully restored  and  partly  renewed  by  the  sculptor  J.  Kehl.  —  An 
inscription  in  the  Ratinger-Strasse  indicates  the  house  in  which 
Carl  Immermann  (b.  1796,  d.  1840),  the  author,  died. 

The  Church  of  St.  Andrew  (PI.  11 ;  B,  3),  formerly  the  ohnrch 
of  the  court  and  of  the  Jesuits,  completed  in  1629,  and  connected 
with  the  old  college  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  government 
offices ,  contains  the  tombs  of  Count  Palatine  Wolfgang  William 
(d.  1653)  and  Elector  John  William,  mentioned  above,  in  a  chapel 
off  the  choir.  Side-altars:  left,  Deger,  Virgin;  right,  Bubnert 
Scourging  of  Christ.  Side-chapel  to  the  right  of  the  choir :  W. 
SehadoiJPj  Pietk,  a  painting  in  oils. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  old  town  rises  the  new  Academy  of  Art 
(PI.  16a;  B,  2),  an  imposing  Renaissance  edifice  by  JRiffart^  com- 
pleted in  1879.  The  principal  facade,  520  ft.  long,  is  turned  to- 
wards the  winter-harbour,  and  is  embellished  with  handsome  win- 
dows and  niches  for  statues.  It  contains  several  studios  and 
lecture-halls,  a  room  full  of  plaster-casts,  etc.  In  the  Aula,  the 
mural  decoration  of  which  is  not  yet  completed,  are  141  works  of 
the  once  famous  Gallebt  op  Old  Mastb&s,  the  greater  part  of 
which  was  removed  to  Munich  in  1805  (adm.  Sun.  11-1  gratis,  at 
other  times  50  pf.).  The  most  valuable  paintings  are  an  *As- 
sumption  by  Rubens  j  and  Madonnas  by  Cima  da  Conegliano  and 
Bellini,  It  also  contains  a  large  collection  of  drawings  of  every 
school  (14,000  in  number)  and  engravings,  and  the  Ramboux  col- 
lection of  water-calours. 

The  old  town  on  the  W.  is  separated  from  the  Modbrn  Quab- 
TBBs  on  the  E.  side  by  the  broad  Allee-Strasse ,  planted  with 
trees,  in  which  are  situated  Sehulte^s  Picture  Qallery  (p.  19)  and 
the  Breidenbacher  Hof.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  Allee-Strasse  and 
near  the  entrance  to  the  Hofgarten  is  the  handsome  new  Theatre 
(PI.  23;  B,  3),  designed  by  Oiese^  and  opened  in  1875. 

Opposite,  in  the  Eriedrichs-Platz,  is  the  KonBthalle,  an  edi^ 
fice  in  the  French  Renaissance  style  'byOieee^  completed  in  1881 ;  it 
contains  the  *Stddtiache  OtnuUdesammlung,  or  municipal  gallery  of 
modem  Diisseldorf  masters.  Admission  daily  9-6 ,  50  pf. ;  cata- 
logue 30  pf . 

Landseapes  by  A.  Aehenbaeh^  executed  between  1843  and  1866  *,  0.  Aehen- 
bach^  Funeral  atPalestrina*,  A.  Baur^  Christian  martyrs  of  the  Roman  im- 
perial age  \  C.  BegttSy  Exposure  of  Hoses ;  Bewer^  Beheading  of  John  the 
Baptist;  W.  Camphauseny  Frederick  the  Great;  Cornelius,  The  Wise  and 
Foolish  Virgins,  one  of  the  earliest  works;  and  one  of  the  few  oil-paint- 
ings executed  by  this  master,  begun  in  1813,  formerly  in  the  possession  of 
Thorvaldsen;  J.  P.  Hasenclever,  Wine- tasting,  the  master's  last  picture; 
Ph.  mkl0brandt^  Portrait  of  Wappers,  the  Antwerp  painter;  /.  ^Ubner^ 


22     Route  2,  DtJSI^ELDORF.  From  BotUrdam 

Portrait  of  Prof.  Keller;  R.  Jordan^  The  first  child;  L.  Knatu,  Gard-players ; 
Chr.  K&hlert  Hagar  and  Ishmael;  C.  F.  Lesiing^  Landscape  with  warlike 
scene;  Th.  Miutrop,  Holy  Family;  ff.  K.  A.  MUcke,  Portrait;  C.  MUller^ 
Annunciation;  J.  yietsen,  Portrait  of  Schirmer;  /.  Rdiing ^  Portraits  of 
Schadow  and  K.  F.  Lessing;  H.  Saientin^  Village  sermon ;  J.  W,  ScMrmer^ 
Italian  landscape,  Dutch  landscape.  Twenty-six  biblical  scenes  ;  A.  Schrodter^ 
Don  Quixote  before  Dulcinea  or  Toboso;  A.  Seel,  Church  of  8t,  Mark, 
Venice;  K.  F.  8okn,  Tasso  and  the  two  Leonoras;  A.  Tidemand,  Service 
of  the  Haugianer  in  Norway ;  JB,  VauHefj  kittle  Obstinate", 

In  the  open  space  at  the  N.  end  of  the  K5nigs-Allee,  near  the 
entrance  to  the  Hofgarten ,  rises  the  Statue  of  OomeUns  (Fl.  7; 
B,  3),  the  most  eminent  of  modern  German  painters,  by  Donndorf^ 
erected  in  1879.  At  the  sides  of  the  handsome  pedestal  are  alle- 
gorical figures  of  Poetry  and  Religion ;  in  front,  Fainting,  upon  the 
Sphinx  *  at  the  back,  Germania  and  Italia,  in  relief.  The  frieze 
represents  Faust  and  Helen.  —  The  house  in  which  Cornelius  was 
born,  in  the  Eurze-Strasse,  is  marked  by  a  memorial-slab.  —  In 
the  Konigs-Allee  is  a  monumental  fountain,  erected  in  1882  after 
a  design  by  Miisch.  Farther  on  is  the  Schadow-Flatz(P1.  B,  C,  3), 
which  is  embellished  with  a  colossal  Bust  of  Schadow  (PI.  4),  in 
bronze,  designed  by  Wittig. 

The  handsome  hall  of  the  Sealsohule,  or  Commercial  School 
(PI.  21 ;  C,  3),  Kloster-Str.  7,  is  adorned  with  a  ♦Fresco-frieze  by 
Bendemann ,  being  an  allegorical  representation  of  Art ,  Science, 
Commerce,  and  Industry,  the  finest  work  of  the  kind  at  Dilssel- 
dorf.  Admission  50  pf.,  the  proceeds  being  devoted  to  the  foun- 
dation of  scholarships ;  explanatory  notice  by  Dr.  Heinen,  1  m. 

In  the  K<5nios-Platz  (Pi.  C,  3)  a  new  Protestant  Church,  in 
the  Romanesque  style ,  has  been  erected  from  plans  by  Kyllmann 
and  Heyden.  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Platz  is  the  Jastisgebaade, 
or  court-house  (PI.  10),  the  Assisen-Saal,  or  assize-room,  in  which 
contains  Schadow' a  last  great  oil-painting  (Paradise,  Hell,  and 
Purgatory) ,  painted  by  order  of  King  Frederick  William  IV.  — 
Adjacent  are  the  new  Archives,  a  brick  building. 

The*Hofgarten(Pl.  B,  C,  2 ;  cafrf-restaurant  on  the  ArMOhasherg, 
p.  16),  which  was  laid  out  in  1769,  but  was  extended  and  altered 
with  artistic  taste  after  the  levelling  of  the  fortifications  in  1802  by 
the  director  Weihe,  to  whom  a  monument  (PI.  6)  has  been  erected, 
affords  the  pleasantest  walks  at  Diisseldorf.  The  well-kept  grounds 
extend  down  to  the  Rhine  on  the  W.,  and  on  the  £.  to  the  J&gerhof 
(PI.  9 ;  C,  2),  once  a  hunting-lodge,  and  now  occupied  by  the  Prince 
of  HohenzoUern.  The  stables  in  the  Duisburger-Str.  are  tastefully 
adorned  with  sculptures. 

Nearly  adjoining  the  Hofgarten  is  the  JaeobCsche  Garten  Pern- 
pelfort,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  philosopher  Friedrich  Hein- 
rioh  Jacobi  (d.  1819),  and  visited  by  Goethe,  Herder,  Wieland, 
and  other  celebrities  of  that  period.  Since  1860  it  has  belonged 
to  the  ^Malkasten'  club  of  artists,  and  forms  the  centre  of  their  so- 
cial meetings,  and  the  scene  of  their  summer  festivals.    In  the 


to  Cologne.  mClHEIM.  2.  fiowte.     23 

new  bailding  (PI.  17)  in  the  garden,  in  the  Benaiuance  style,  is  a 
fine  room  with  excellent  paintings  on  wood.  —  To  the  N.W.,  in 
the  Stem-Str.,  is  the  Roman  Catholia Maritn-Botpital  (PI.  C,  1),  in 
the  Gothic  style. 

The  handsome  Pott  Office  (PI.  18;  B,  4]  is  huilt  in  the  Flo- 
rentine palatial  style.  —  In  the  vicinity  are  the  Neuen  Anlagen,  or 
new  promenades ,  in  which  stands  the  new  Houte  of  the  Eataiet 
(PI.  B,  5),  built  in  the  Italian  style  by  Raschdorff. — By  the  Fflrsten- 
wall  stands  the  Protestant  Hospital  (PI.  A,  6).  —  In  the  Bilker-AUee 
(PI.  A,  B,  6)  is  the  new  Flora  Garden,  with  a  fine  concert*hall.  In 
the  former  Tillage  of  Bilkj  72^-^  ^^^  ^m  i^o^  ^V^^  o^  DOsseldorf, 
are  the  old  Romanesque  church  of  8t,  Martin,  and  the  Observatory. — 
The  Cemetery t  to  the  N.  of  the  town  (PI.  B,  1),  contains  seyeral  hand- 
some monuments. 

To  the  KE.  of  the  town,  beyond  the  Rheniah  station  (PI.  I>,  1,  2), 
about  1V«  M.  from  the  K3nig8-Platz,  and  reached  by  tramway,  lies  the 
new  Zoological  Garden  (adm.  GO  pf. :  band  on  Wed.  and  Sat.),  tastefully 
laid  oat  from  plans  by  Bodinus  and  the  painter  Professor  Gamphaasen, 
but  as  yet  possessing  few  wild  animals.  —  Adjoining  the  Zoological  Gar- 
den on  the  E.  is  the  Ollsselthal  Asylum  for  homeless  children,  formerly 
a  Trappist  monastery,  presented  by  the  government  to  Count  tob  der 
Becke  in  1819,  and  fitted  up  by  him  for  its  present  purpose. 

The  ancient  town  of  KaiMrawerth  (Rheiniteher  Ho/),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Rhine,  6  H.  from  Dtisseldorf  and  SVs  M.  fh)m  Calctim  (p.  18),  is 
the  seat  of  a  training  school  for  Protestant  Sisters  of  Charity,  an  extensive 
Institution,  with  branches  in  many  different  parts  of  Germany,  founded 
by  the  benevolent  pastor  Fliedner  (d.  1864)  in  1836.  The  old  Romanesque 
Church  of  Kaiserswerth,  of  the  12th  and  13th  cent.,  contains  an  admirably 
executed  *Reliquary  of  the  13th  cent. ,  in  which  the  bones  of  8t.  Suitbertust 
a  native  of  Ireland  who  first  preached  the  Gospel  here  in  710,  are  pre- 
served. Of  the  palace  from  which  the  young  Emp.  Henry  IV.  was  carried 
off  in  1062  in  a  vessel  belonging  to  his  austere  guardian  Archbishop  Anno 
nothing  is  now  left  but  a  few  fragments,  called  the  'K6nigsburg\ 

Railway  to  Goloonb.  To  the  left  rises  Sehloss  Eller.  Beyond 
(157  M.)  Benrath,  among  the  trees  to  the  right,  stands  a  handsome 
royal  chateau  erected  in  1756-60  by  Elector  Palatine  Charles.  Beyond 
(162  M.)  Langenfeld  the  train  crosses  the  Wupperj  passes  the  chateau 
of  Reuschenberg  (left),  and  at  (146  M.)  Kuppersteg  crosses  the  Dhun. 
The  Rhine  is  approached  near  Sehloss  Stammheim,  a  chateau  of 
Count  Fiirstenberg,  beyond  which  the  train  reaches  (172  M.)  MiU- 
heim  am  Bhein  (JBergischer  Hof),  a  thriving  manufacturing  town 
with  24,991  Inhab.,  which  owes  its  prosperity  to  Protestant  citizens 
who  emigrated  from  Cologne  in  the  17th  century.  Handsome  modern 
Gothic  church  near  the  station,  by  Zwirner. 

Frok  M6LHBIM  TO  Beeoisch-Gladbach  AiTD  ^KMSBBBO,  8>/iH.,  brauch- 
railway  in  Vs  br.  (1  m.  20  pf.,  90,  60  pf.).  —  One  of  the  finest  existing  Gothic 
edifices,  similar  in  plan  to  the  Cologne  Cathedral,  is  the  church  of  the 
suppressed  Cistercian  abbey  of  *Altenberg,  founded  in  1255,  consecrated 
in  1379.  This  magnificent  edifice,  situated  in  the  DhOnthal,  6  If .  to  the  1^. 
of  Gladbach.  was  judiciously  restored  by  Frederick  William  IV.,  by  whose 
ancestors,  the  Counts  Adolph  and  Eberhard  vom  Berge.  the  abbey  was 
founded  in  1133.  Several  members  of  the  family  are  interred  here.  — 
Benaberg  iH6tel  BtlUvw;  Rheiniseher  Ho/,  well  spoken  of)  possesses  a 


24    BouUS.  COLOGNE.  HoieU, 

ch&teatt  built  by  Elector-Palatine  John  William  in  1706,  now  a  military 
school. 

From  Miilheim  to  Efber/eld  and  Bamuny  see  R.  7. 

Below  Miilheim  the  train  intersects  the  fortifications  of  Deuiz 
(p.  46),  where  the  ordinary  trains  stop,  while  the  express  crosses 
the  railway-bridge  to  (175  M.)  Cologne. 

Steamboat  from  DCisseldorf  to  Cologne  tedious,  although  several 
places  on  the  banks  possess  historical  interest. 

3.  Cologne. 

Sailwaj  Stationa.  1.  Ckntkal  Statioh  (PI.  F,  4;  nndexgoing  alteration) 
at  Cologne,  for  all  the  trains  to  Bonn,  Goblepz,  Mayence,  Ehrenbreitstein, 
Lahnstein,  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Belgium,  Dusseldorf,  Crefeld,  and  Cleve, 
and  for  the  express  trains  to  Minden,  Hanorer,  and  Berlin.  — 2.  The  St. 
Pamtalkom  Station  (PI.  B,  8),  for  local  trains  to  Briihl.  —  3.  Rioht-Bhenish 
(Bergisch-Markiseh)  Station  at  Deutz  (p.  46),  by  the  bridge-of-boats  (PI. 
E.  6),  for  the  ordinary  trains  to  Elberfeld ,  Gassel  and  Berlin ,  Bensberg, 
Giessen,  Troisdorf  and  Ehrenbreitstein,  and  Diisseldorf.  (The  Cologne- 
Blinden  Station  at  Deute  is  now  used  for  goods-trafiftc  only).  —  An  Omnibu* 
runB  from  the  Central  Station  at  Cologne  in  connection  with  the  trains 
starting  from  the  last-named  station.  —  Porter  into  the  town:  for  packages 
not  exceeding  lilbs.,  30  pf. ;  not  exceeding  551b8.,  50  pf.;  not  exceeding 
110 lbs.,  75  pf.    Cabs,  see  p.  25. 

Hotda.  *H6tkl  dd  Kokd  (PI.  a :  £,  5),  Frankenplatz  6,  near  the  iron 
bridge,  with  railway-ticket,  luggage-despatch,  and  telegraph  office,  B. 
from 3  m.,  A.  80  pf.,  B.  11/4,  D.  Si/s  m. ;  ^Hotbl  Disch  (PI.  b :  E,  4),  Bnicken- 
Str.  13-21, B.  3  m.,  A.  60,  B.  1  m.  20,  D.  3  m.  60  pf. ;  'Mainzbr  Hop  (PI.  c: 
E,  3,  4),  Glockengasae  14-20;  •Victoria  (PI.  d:  D,  5),  Heumarkt  46-50; 
'^HoTXL  Ernst  (PI.  e :  F,  4),  Trankgasse  3,  between  the  station  and  the  cathe- 
dral, B.  2>/s,  B.  1,  D.  3  m.;  «Wiknbr  Hop  (PI.  f:  E,  4),  Glockengasse  6-10 ; 
*HdTBL  OB  Hollands  (PI.  g:  D,  5),  Thurnmarkt  36-40,  on  the  Rhine; 
•Hotel  Weber,  Hoch-Str.  27,  in  the  Augustiner-Platz  (PI.  4 ;  D,  4),  good 
cuisine  and  wine.  All  these  are  of  the  first  class :  R.  from  2-3  m.,  B.  1-1  Vz  m., 
D.  2Vt-3  m.,  A.  60  pf.  —  •Hotel  dd  Dome  (PI.  h :  E,  4),  Domhof  6-11,  R. 
and  B.  from  2  m.  80,  D.  2  m.  60  pf. ;  Russisoher  Hop  (PI.  i :  D,  5),  Friedrich- 
Wilhelm-Str. ;  Hotel  db  Cologne  (PI.  k :  D,  6),  on  the  Rhine,  well  spoken 
of;  •St.  Paul,  Fettenhennen  19,  by  the  cathedral,  B.  from  2,  D.  2  m.; 
"Hotel  db  Paris  (PI.  m:  E,  4),  Drususgasse  3 ;  •Laacheb  Hop  (PI.  o:  D,  2), 
Am  Laach  6-8;  HdTBL  Museum,  Drususgasse  21;  Rheinischer  Hof,  opposite 
the  chief  portal  of  the  cathedral,  R.  11/2-3  m.  —  Europaischer  Hop,  Co- 
m5dien-Str.  2,  near  the  cathedral,  R.  A  A.  2V8m.,  B.  1  m. ;  HdTEL  Bill- 
STBiN,  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Str.  7.  near  the  bridge-of-boats ;  Drei  Konigb,  on 
the  Rhine,  opposite  the  steamooat  quay,  Hotel  Fischer,  Burgmauer  3, 
both  good,  R.  2,  D.  2,  B.  V4  m.;  Beroischer  Hop,  Thurnmarkt  3-5.  near  the 
bridge-of-boats;  Landsbbro,  Marzellen-Str.  1;  Union,  Domlnikaner  2; 
Antonstti,  Gom6dien-Str.  8;  Vanderstbin-Bbllen,  Heumarkt  20,  well 
spoken  of;  Obladen,  unpretending ;  Bbrliner  Hop,  opposite  the  S.  portal 
of  the  cathedral.   Average  charges  in  these :  R.  A  B.  2-2Va  m.,  I>.  2-2V2  m. 

At  Deutz:  Grand  Hotel  Bellevub,  in  the  new  station  beside  the  bridge- 
of-boats  (PI.  E,  6),  with  the  ^Prins  Carl'  garden  restaurant  (see  below). 

Bastanranta  at  the  railway  stations.  —  Wine.  *Htu$er,  Herzog-Str.  10 ; 
"Johnen,  Breite-Str.  36B;  *Berzdor/,  Sandbahn  10;  FreischiUz^  Am  Hof  16; 
•ResUurant  at  the  OUrxenieh  (p.  39) ;  *AUdewt9che  Weinstube,  Am  Hof  14 
(PI.  E,  4, 5) ;  Deiti^  Unter  Goldschmidt  26,  Moselle ;  Steigerwald^  Lintgasse 
9:  Stoekhauzen,  Budengasse  3;  Bamzpohn^  Hochpforte  9;  JEre«f«er,  Hoch- 
pfortc  10;  Ermisch,  Martin-Str.  26;  Ciiri*,  Stephan-St.  2.  At  Deutz:  Prinz 
Carl^  garden-restaurant  (see  above).  —  Beer.  •TTemy,  Salomonsgasse  18, 
between  the  Rathhaus  and  Hoch-Str.,  dinner  1  m.  60  pf. ;  Hamburger  Restau- 
•tfnt,  at  the  S^adt-Theater,  see  below;  "^Jfind,  Am  Hof  12;  "fucher^  in  the 


1.  AppeDiof B.8. 

2.  SihUoihek E.5, 

3.  Biirffer-Moapital  1).3. 

\.  Casino D.  k 

h.CommamhmturjSour.GthJ  J).2. 
^.^rxbischofl.Talais    .  F.3. 

I.Exped.d.Ioln.ZeituAg  K.3. 
%.Gamisons-laBeurtft  .  .  A.l*. 
9.Gewvl>esdude  Z.I. 

Vi.Gurseniek. 0.5. 

lL.&irmneuium.(rri^lr.WUhi     C.4i 

12.  »         r      (Jetuitm)        F.*. 

13.  »         .       (Neiug>  D.2. 

\^.Loge I).2. 

Ift.  Xarien  -lospital Gi5. 

Vb.Jiuseum.enhisf^ofl E.5. 

17.  .    ,WaIlraf-lUchartt    E.*. 

18L  ToUza  •PraesioHum  .   .  .  .E.J. 

l9.To*t-JHrectufiL E.3. 

Vi.Frie8ter-Senvatar E.^-. 

2\.XaihJuai» E.5. 

21.Reffieninffsgti>azule .  .      E.F.3. 


KO  L  N. 

Z^.ReichsbanJi-BauptsUllB  C.5. 
2^.Koniertfitirrn  E.8. 

25.  .^laaflhauafn'scfurBojtknr.l.  f. 

26.  Taubstummenschuie  E.*. 

27.  Tdeifnxphm  -Ami     .      ■  0. 3.  f . 

28.  Tanfttihaus  .  D.5. 
US.  rhfttUr  fStudt-f  .  .  E.3. 
90.  Tf^uf  «7iA<utf  Clf, 
31.  7ra««o-£A/tf>iit  .                  C.3,*. 

SS.ITo^^m^i^ 9.4^ 

Vi.Zeuffhaiu E.3. 


34.5*^/*«wt  D.5. 

Z&.AUerJuiUffen.-GipelU.      &.i-. 

K.StAndreas r.%. 

^.SlApoaUiiL D.2. 

38.  ^GMoaio  B.S.*. 

VH.SiColiumJbou 1.4: 

¥i.StCunibert G.5. 

J)om E.r.4.5. 

^.Elmdkirdie^ JI.5. 


¥LSfKUsaheOi 

D.4. 

Vi.Erttn0tliMhfK.  (AlU  1 

!>.♦. 

*4.                        .   uVeue> 

CA5. 

t&.XfCeory 

C.t 

¥&.Sf€treon 

F.2. 

¥i.Jfsuitm-i. 

F.t 

48.  «W  lohann-Rcftuti 

11.5. 

fB.  SiJiaria-Ablass-CaptUt 

E.3. 

V^.. St  Maria  imChpiWl 

D.5. 

5L  SliiariBi  id.KupUrgasst 

E.3. 

58.  fSNaria  an  LjttJdrdun 

C6. 

53.  .SfVanaBurSdinu/ytuse 

J!.4>. 

it.. St  Martin 

E3. 

i&.StJlmtritius 

C2. 

W.mMinoritai 

E.t 

57.SfflznUUto7i(JfUit.Z> 

US. 

SS.SfJ'Uer 

D.S.4^ 

SBJlaI/t*capeUt 

E.5. 

m.StSfrerbt      

A.5. 

ei.SfUrtuU 

G.4. 

eZ.VrjndtMHT. 

&5. 

^XSjnaaoge 

E.4. 

UMOCBUHGvonKOLN. 


■!<  ■>.P-ii!<Vr--il'ilh-j."^ 


DCR   KOlNER    DOM, 

0     ;'   u)  'JO  30  40 so 

Meter 


431iorkH.pcJlen : 
l.tnydbtrtus-I..  i.Agnes-K. 

2.  Matmuif-K.  6.  lOOiaArK. 

3 .  Joluainis'Z.  7 .  Stmphojis^. 
*.  DnOcSHigwKrl.                         8.  Marienrl. 

Q.SchatmkanuMr.     lO .  SojcrUteL ,     ±L. KapttasajoL .    ^Z.JNbUoOuik^ 


BiUht. 


COLOGNB. 


3.  Am<e.     25 


»TC«de  n«ar  the  Hoch-Str.  (PL  B,  i)\  Tmvme  tTAUaee,  LMir«ns-PlaU  3 
(PI.  F,5),  BtrMsburgbeer;  *  Sewer,  Antonsguae  4;  JteAl,  by  the  Jfttseuni) 
DemieU,  arosse  Bndengasse  2  \  Aldenkirehen,  Hersog-Str.  4;  SimoiUf  Muhlen- 
bach,  near  the  Heumarkt,  and  many  others.  —  Ojatera.  O.  JMtffer,  Kleine 
BndengasM  10.  —  Oafta.  *MMSer,  Obenmanpforten ,  also  the  best  cob« 
fectioiier  in  Cologne;  Reichard^  Hoch-8tr.  104,  confectioner.  —  ^Oa/i  Tewele, 
Hoeh-Str.,  at  the  comer  of  the  Perlenpfahl;  Wiener  Cinfi^  Briider-Str.  1; 
Cafi  Au  D&me,  Domhof  7-9;  PuUuU,  Hochstraase  119,  corner  of  the  Mino- 
riten-Str. ;  *Fiecher  (see  abore). 

Flaeee  of  Beereation.  *  Zoological  Garden,  Vs  ^-  below  the  town,  nearly 
opposite  Mulheim  (p.  23),  see  p.  46.  Adm.  1  m.,  on  Sundays  80  pf.  \  con- 
certs on  Sunday,  Saturday,  and  Wednesday  afternoons.  Tramway^cars  and 
steamers  (see  below)  ply  between  the  town  and  the  gardens  (*Bestaurant). 
—  *Botanie€U  Garden  of  the  Flora  Boeieif,  adjoining  the  Zoological  Oar- 
den,  see  p.  46.  Admission  1  m.,  on  Sundays  GO  pf.^  Aquarium  90  pf. ;  good 
restaurant  \  concerts  on  Sundays  and  Wednesdays,  and  oftener  in  summer.  — 
Kaiier-Oarten,  near  the  Thurmchen,  at  the  V.  end  of  the  town  (on  the 
way  to  the  Zoological  Garden).  —  Bayenhaue,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town 
(comp.  PI.  A,  6).  —  *Marienhwg,  restaurant  with  pretty  grounds  (tramway 
from  the  Domhof,  see  below;  steamboat  in  the  afternoon,  see  below);  ad- 
jacent, on  the  Bhine,  the  Alteburger  MUhle,  commanding  a  fine  riew.  — 
HohenUnd^  garden  to  the  W.  of  the  new  town  (tramway  from  the  Neu- 
markt).  —  Stddtiecher  Garten  (PI.  F,  1),  with  restaurant  and  ^Trinkhalle* 
for  mineral  waters.  —  BrUhl  (p.  70)  also  attracts  numerous  visitors. 

Theatree.  Stadt-Theater  (PI.  29;  B^,  3),  Glockengasse  (1st  Sept  to 
1st  Hay).  —  Summer  Theatre,  near  the  Flora.  —  Cireue  CarrS,  Gertruden- 
Str.  4,  near  the  Neumarkt. 

Mane.  Cologne  has  of  late  years  become  one  of  the  most  musical 
places  in  Germany.  The  GUrsenich  Coneerte  (p.  37;  seats  in  the  body  of 
the  hall  4  m.  60  pf..  in  the  gallery  2  m.,  the  latter  often  oppressively  hot), 
ten  in  number,  which  take  place  annually  in  winter,  have  attained  a  justly 
merited  celebrity,  owing  to  the  admirable  choice  of  the  music,  as  well  as 
to  the  number  and  skill  of  the  performers.  The  Coneervatorium  of  Mtuie 
(Wolfs-Str.  3),  founded  in  1861,  is  supported  partly  by  government  and  the 
city,  and  partly  by  private  subscription,  and  has  numbered  among  its  di- 
rectors some  of  the  most  talented  musicians  of  Germany.  Another  insti- 
tution which  has  earned  a  high  reputation  is  the  Mdnner-Gesangverein,  or 
Men's  Vocal  Society,  by  which  admirable  concerts  are  given  at  the  Wol- 
kenburg  (p.  42). 

Bafhs.  The  Hohenttau/enbad,  in  the  Hohenstaufen-Bing  (PI.  C,  2),  a 
handsome  building,  is  excellently  fitted  up;  large  swimming-baths  for 
ladies.  —  Biegen,  Schildergasse  72  (also  Russian  baths,  ftc).  Baths  in  the 
Bhine,  by  the  bridge-of-boats  (also  warm  baths);  Bekie/er,  In  Deutz,  near  the 
bridge-of-boats,  Nolden,  at  the  Bheinau  (PI.  A,  6),  these  two  with  swim- 
ming-baths and  accommodation  for  ladies ;  Pk'onief^^eftwtfWiNmstoHjin Deutz, 
below  the  iron  bridge;  AcHen-Sehwimmaneialt ,  on  the  Bheinau  (PI.  B,  6). 
Oab  Tariff.  Persons: 

A.  Per  Drive. 
Drive  within  the  city  of  Cologne  ...... 

From  a  point  within  the  city  to  the  suburbs, 

as  far  as  the  new  ramparts 

B.  Drives  from  the  City  or  Suburbs, 
Zoological  and  Flora  Gardens  and  Stadtgarten 
Bergisch-Mark.  Station  at  Deutz,  incl.  bridge 
Villa-Colony  Marienburg 

0.  By  Time. 

For  Vi  hr 

For  1  hr 

Each  additional  V*  ^' 

For  a  trunk  or  heavy  package  26  pf..  each  additional  package  10  pf. ; 
small  articles  in  the  hand  free.  —  Double  fares  from  10  p.m.  to  7  a.m. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

»•?& 

t-t 

„.p. 

T5^ 

1  - 

1  - 

1.  25 

1.  60 

1  - 

1.  76 

2  - 

1.  26 
1.  76 
2  . 

1.  GO 
2  - 
2  - 

1.  50 
2.25 
2  - 

1  - 

2  - 
-  60 

1  - 

2  - 
-  50 

1.  60 
3  - 
-  75 

1.  GO 
3  - 
-  76 

26     Bouie3.  COLOGNE.  Trarnvtayt. 

Tramwayg.  A.  Fbox  thb  Cathbpbal  (PI.  E,  4, 5) :  1.  From  tlie  bridge, 
by  the  Oomodien- 8tr.,  Edmeribunn,  Apoeteln-8fcr.,  llauriUiui'Stemweg, 
Waidmarkt  (PL  C,  4),  and  Heumarkt  (PI.  D,  5),  and  back ;  cars  in  eacb 
direction  every  1()  minutes  (the  line  i«  to  be  extended  throngb  the  new 
Bing-Str.)  \  —  2.  Along  the  bank  of  the  Bbine  to  the  Kaitergartent  Flwa, 
and  the  Zoological  Garden^  every  30  minutea.  —  B.  Fbok  yhb  £ioei.stexn 
(PI.  H,  4)  via  Mppes  to  the  Zoological  Garden  and  tbe  Florok.  —  C.  From 
THE  Waidhabkt  (PI.  C,  4),  via  Bayenihal  to  Marienhwrg  and  Rodtnkirehen^ 
every  20  minutes.  —  D.  Fkom  the  Neuuabkt  (PI.  D,  3):  1.  Past  the  8Uid- 
UicM  Oarten  to  Ekren/eld  (p.  16),  every  20  minntes^  •*  2.  To  lAndenthal 
and  Melaten.  every  20  minutes.  —  E.  Fbox  Deutz  to  Kalk  and  to  iAU' 
heimram-Klmn  (p.  23). 

Staamboati,  see  Introduction,  p.  xv.  The  piers  are  near  the  bridge- 
of-boats  (PL  D,  5,  6).  Local  Steamers  ply  frequently  between  Cologne  and 
Miilheim  (p.  23;  25  pf.),  starting  from  the  bridge-of-boats  (PL  D,  £,  5,  6). 
and  touching  at  8t  Gunibert  (p.  46),  and  (20  pf.)  near  the  Zoological  and 
Flora  gardens  (p.  46).  Other  steamers  ply  every  half-hour  in  the  afternoon 
from  the  Filzgrabenthor  (PL  D,  5)  to  Marieniburg^  a  group  of  suburban 
villas  a  little  above  Cologne  (25  pf. ;  there  and  back  40  pf.). 

Feat  Of&oa  (PL  19 ;  £,  3),  Glockengasse  25-27.  Branch-offices  for  letters 
and  parcels  in  the  Marzellen-Str.,  to  the  !N.  of  the  Central  Station,  at  1 
Hohe-Str.,  at  35  Klingelptitz,  and  at  the  Hotel  du  Kord.  —  Telegraph  Ofttee 
(PL  27),  C«cilien-Str.  4;  also  at  the  Central  Station,  at  the  Hdtel  du  Nord, 
and  at  the  office  of  the  Kolnische  Zeitung,  Breite-»tr.  76  and  78. 

San  de  Cologne.  The  oldest  firms  are  Johann  Maria  Farina,  opposite 
the  Jiilichs-Platz  (Obenmarspforten  23),  and  Johann  Anion  Farina  at  the 
*Stadt  Mailand',  Hoch-Str.  129,  opposite  the  W.  portal  of  the  cathedral  (3  A) ; 
also  at  Jiilichs-PlatK  4,  Aa.  Case  containing  six  bottles  of  the  ordinary 
medium  sise,  from  7  m.  50  pf. 

Objeete  of  Art  and  curiosities  of  all  kinds  are  sold  by  Lempcrtz^  Grosse 
Sandkaul  4;  and  at  the  K&lner  Kunst  und  Oeieerbe-B€uar,  Am  Hof  14. 

Szhibition  of  PaintingSf  at  Fd.  SchHlie%  Bichartz-Str.  16,  near  the 
Museum  (adm.  50  pf. ;  comp.  p.  16).  —  Caetan't  Panoptieum  (wax-works), 
Frohngasse,  near  the  Zoological  Garden. 

American  Consul :  Dr.  William  D.  Warner,  Esq.^  HobenssoUemring  34. 

English  Chnreh  Service  at  17o.  3  Bischofsgarten-Str.  (11  a.m.  and  7.30 
p.m.).    Chaplain,  Rtv.  Rob.  Bkinner,  HohenzoUemring  84. 

Ah BRiCAN  Dbntist  :  JOr.  JBervey  C,  Merrill  (of  Boston),  Hohren-Str.  3 
(near  tramway). 

Principal  Atteaetions :  Cathedral,  interior,  and  walk  round  the  external 
eboir-gallery  (p.  28);  Muaeumip.  34),  Hochstrasse;  Rathhamip.  38);  Onrze- 
nich  (p.  39);  KSnigsdenhmal  in  the  Heumarkt  (p.  40);  St.  Maria  im  Capi- 
tol (p.  40) ;  thence  proceed  to  the  Neumarkt  and  past  the  Church  of  the 
Apostles  (p.  43)  to  St.  Oereon  (p.  44) ;  then  to  the  new  Rhine  Bridge  (p.  34) ; 
liora  or  Zoological  Garden  (p.  46).  A  visit  to  the  chief  sights  of  Cologne 
occupies  two  days,  and  is  conveniently  accomplished  in  the  order  followed 
below.  Tbe  best  time  for  the  churches  is  the  morning  after  9  o'clock. 
(Before  that  hour,  and  from  11  to  11.  30  a.m.  there  is  divine  service.) 

The  names  of  the  streets  leading  to  the  Rhine  (W-  to  E.)  are  painted 
red,  of  those  parallel  to  the  Bhine  ^.  to  8.)  black. 

Cologne  (130  ft.  above  tbe  sea-level),  the  largest  town  In  tbe 
Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia ,  the  residence  of  an  archbishop ,  and 
one  of  the  most  Important  commercial  places  in  Germany,  is  a  for- 
tress of  the  first  class,  with  161,266. inhabitants  (five-sixths  of 
whom  are  Roman  Catholics},  including  a  garrison  of  7000  men.  It 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  across  which  a  bridge-of-boats 
and  an  Iron  bridge  lead  to  Deutz,  a  town  on  the  opposite  bank 
(17,736  inhabitants).  From  a  distance,  and  especially  when  ap- 
uroached  by  steamboat,  the  town  with  its  numerous  towers  presents 


Bi8iory.  GOLOeN£.  3.  BauU.     27 

a  very  imposing  appearance,  but  most  of  the  old  streets  are  narrow, 
gloomy,  and  badly  drained.  Many  of  them,  however,  contain  in- 
teresting specimens  of  domestic  architecture,  dating  from  the  16th, 
15th,  and  even  the  13th  century.  Of  late  considerable  improvements 
have  been  effected ;  most  of  the  narrowest  streets  have  been  swept 
away,  and  replaced  by  new  ones,  containing  tasteful  and  substan- 
tial buildings.  Room  has  recently  been  made  for  a  great  extension 
of  the  city  by  the  removal  of  the  mediaeval  wall,  of  which  a  few 
towers  (pp.  42,  43,  451  now  alone  remain,  and  the  purchase  by  the 
corporation,  for  590,(500^.,  of  the  space  between  it  and  the  new 
glacis.  The  area  thus  acquired  has  been  laid  out  in  building  lots 
and  is  nearly  as  large  as  that  occupied  by  the  old  town.  A  hand- 
some Ringstrasse,  or  series  of  boulevards,  of  which  those  in  the 
centre  (Hohenstau fen-Ring,  HohenzolUm-Ring,  Kaiser- Wilhelms- 
Ring)  already  contain  a  large  number  of  fine  buildings,  will  encircle 
the  entire  old  town,  from  the  Bayenthnrm  on  the  S.  to  the  Eigel- 
stein-Thor  on  the  N.,  a  distance  of  372  M. 

History.  Cologne  was  founded  by  the  Ubii,  at  the  time  when  they 
were  compelled  by  Agrippa  to  migrate  from  the  right  to  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rhine.  In  A.  D.  51  Agrippina ,  daughter  of  Germanicu/i  and  mother 
of  Xero,  founded  here  a  colony  of  Roman  veterans,  which  at  first  was 
called  Cvlonia  Agrippinensis,  and  afterwards  CoUmia  Claudia  Agrippina, 
Of  the  strong  walls  of  this  settlement  there  are  still  some  remains. 
It  was  the  seat  of  the  Legate  of  Oermania  Inferior.  In  308  Constantine 
the  Great  began  a  stone  bridge  over  the  Rhine,  which  connected  Mars- 
pforten  with  what  was  then  the  island  of  St.  If  artin,  and  thence  crossed 
to  Deutz.  This  bridge  was  afterwards  destroyed  by  the  l^ormans,  and 
finally  removed  by  Archbishop  Bruno  (see  p.  43).  From  the  end  of 
the  fifth  century  Cologne  belonged  to  the  kingdom  of  the  Franks,  and 
it  was  long  occupied  by  the  Ripuarian  kings.  Charlemagne  raised  the 
bishopric,  which  had  been  founded  here  in  the  fourth  century,  to  an  arch- 
bishopric, the  first  archbishop  being  the  imperial  Chaplain  Hildehold^  who 
built  the  oldest  cathedral  church,  and  presented  to  it  a  valuable  library, 
which  still  esdsts. 

The  archbishops  soon  began  to  lay  claim  to  political  as  well  as 
ecclesiastical  power,  and  endeavoured  to  construe  the  privileges  granted 
to  them  by  the  Emperor  into  unlimited  jurisdiction  over  the  city.  In 
consequence  of  these  pretensions  they  were  continually  at  variance  with 
the  citizens,  and  their  quarrels  usually  assumed  the  form  of  sanguinary 
feuds,  particularly  under  Anno  II.  (1066-75),  Philipp  von  Heintberg  (1167-91), 
Konrad  von  ffochsiaden  (1238-61),  Ungelbert  von  Falkenbwg  (1261-74),  and 
Siegfried  von  Westerhurg  (1275-97).  The  long  contest  was  decided  in  favour 
of  municipal  independence  by  the  battle  of  Worringen  (1288;  see  p.  44), 
and  the  archbishops  were  compelled  to  transfer  their  residence  to  Briihl 
(p.  66),  and  afterwards  to  Bonn.  They  retained,  however,  the  highest 
jurisdiction  and  other  rights,  and  the  citizens  continued  to  take  the  oath  of 
allegiance,  'so  long  as  they  should  be  maintained  in  the  rights  and  privileges 
handed  down  to  them  by  their  forefathers'.  The  conflicts  carried  on  in 
the  town  itself,  between  different  noble  families  or  between  the  nobles 
and  the  guilds,  were  still  more  violent.  It  was  not  till  1396,  when  the 
guilds  gained  a  decisive  advantage,  that  there  was  a  cessation  of  hostilities 
(oomp.  p.  38).  In  1482, 1513,  and  on  other  occasions,  the  cit]^  was  again  the 
scene  of  revolutionary  struggles.  Its  vigorous  fund  of  vitality  is  shown  by 
the  faet  that,  in  spite  of  all  these  troubles,  Cologne  was  unquestionably  one 
of  the  wealthiest  and  most  prosperous  cities  in  Germany  at  the  end  of 
the  15th  century.  Its  commerce,  especially  its  trade  with  London,  where 
it  possessed  warehouses  at  the  Guildhall,  was  of  the  greatest  importance. 


28    Routes,  COLOGNE*  Cathedral. 

At  an  early  date  Cologne  became  ineorporated  with  the  Htmseatic  Leoffuey 
in  which  it  contested  the  supremacy  with  Luheck.  The  weights  and 
measures  of  Cologne  were  in  use  in  almost  every  Shenish,  Westphalian, 
and  Dutch  town.  A  fair  held  at  Cologne  at  Easter  attracted  visitors  from 
all  parts  of  Europe,  and  even,  from  beyond  the  sea. 

In  the  course  of  its  medieeval  history  Cologne  may  boast  of  having 
twice  been  a  cradle  of  German  Art.  The  first  occasion  was  about  the 
middle  of  the  12th  century,  when  the  ecclesiastical  enthusiasm  shown  by 
the  acquisition  of  the  relics  of  the  Magi,  and  also  the  civic  love  of  splendour 
found  expression  in  a  highly-developed  style  of  Abghitectubs,  calculated 
for  picturesque  effect.  One  after  another  the  larger  churches  were  re- 
modelled, special  attention  being  devoted  to  the  choir.  The  best  specimen 
of  this  period  of  architecture  is  presented  by  the  Apasteikirchey  as  seen 
from  the  Keumarkt.  During  the  13th  cent,  the  taste  for  building  con- 
tinued and  led  to  a  restoration  of  the  Cathedral,  in  which,  however,  the 
traditional  Romanesque  architecture  was  abandoned  for  the  new  Gothic 
style,  emanating  from  France  and  then  spreading  rapidly  thronghout Europe. 
For  a  period  of  about  fifty  years,  dating  from  the  close  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury, Cologne  enjoyed  a  second  golden  era  of  art,  chiefly  confined  to  the 
province  of  Painting.  The  municipal  archives  preserve  the  names  of  a 
great  number  of  painters,  but  only  in  a  very  few  instances  can  any  of 
these  be  definitely  attached  to  existing  pictures.  Among  the  best  known 
are  Meister  Wilhelm  (died  1378) ,  of  whose  mural  paintings  in  the  Hansa- 
Saal  of  the  Bathhaus  some  remains  are  preserved  (now  in  the  Museum, 
p.  35),  and  Meister  Stephan  (Lochner)  of  Constance,  who  died  in  1451.  The 
most  famous  pictures  of  this  school  in  Cologne  are  the  Domblld  (p.  32), 
the  Madonna  of  the  Priests'  Seminary  (p.  34),  and  the  MadonnH  in  an  ar- 
bour of  roses  (p.  35).  —  The  taste  for  architecture  was  not  extinct  even  at 
a  later  period.  The  porch  of  the  Rathhaus,  for  example,  is  an  interesting 
specimen  of  the  German  Renaissance.  Not  only  were  old  churches  re- 
novated, but  occasionally  new  ones  were  built  (e.  g.  the  Church  of  the 
Jesuits).  Prior  to  1801,  when  many  of  them  were  secularised,  Cologne 
possessed  more  than  100  churches,  which,  of  course,  could  only  be  kept 
in  repair  by  constant  care  and  attention.  —  In  the  province  of  Science, 
Cologne  held  by  no  means  so  high  a  place  as  in  that  of  art.  The  univer- 
sity, founded  in  1388,  acquired,  as  the  chief  seat  of  the  opposition  to 
Humanism  in  the  contest  of  Reuchlin  with  the  Obscurantists,  a  wide  but  far 
from  enviable  reputation.    It  was  suppressed  at  the  close  of  last  century. 

After  the  16th  century  Cologne  declined,  at  first  gradually,  and  after- 
wards rapidly.  In  common  with  the  rest  of  the  Hanseatic  towns  its 
commerce  lost  its  former  importance.  Continual  internal  discords,  leading 
to  the  banishment  in  1608  of  the  Protestants,  who  settled  at  Crefeld, 
Elberfeld,  Diisseldorf,  and  Mulheim,  proved  very  prejudicial  to  the 
interests  of  the  city.  It  retained,  however,  its  privileges  as  a  free 
imperial  city  until  its  occupation  bv  the  French  (6th  Oct.,  1794).  By  the 
peace  of  Campo  Formio(17th  Oct.,  1797)  it  was  incorporated  with  France. 
—  It  was  not  till  after  1815,  under  Prussian  rule,  that  Cologne  began  to 
revive.  The  rapid  progress  of  its  steamboat  and  railway  systems,  and 
the  enterprise  of  the  citizens,  many  of  whom  possess  great  wealth,  have 
combined  to  make  Cologne  the  centre  of  the  Rhenish  trade  and  one  of 
the  most  considerable  commercial  cities  in  Germany. 

The  **Catliedral  f ,  or  Dom  (PI.  E,  F,  4,  5),  which  justly  excites 

i  Travellers  are  recommended  not  to  engage  any  of  the  numerous 
valcts-de-plaee  who  hover  about,  in  and  near  the  cathedral ,  as  their  ser- 
vices are  unnecessary.  The  nave  and  transept  with  the  stained-glass 
windows  are  open  the  whole  dav,  but  walking  about  is  forbidden  during 
divine  service  (on  week-days  9-i()  a.  m.  and  3-3.30  p.m.).  The  following 
are  the  authorised  fees  (each  person):  (1).  For  opening  the  choir  and 
choir-chapels,  1  m.  50  pf.  (2).  For  the  attendant  who  conducts  visitors 
along  the  upper  choir-gallery,  round  the  exterior  of  the  cathedral,  and 
the  top  of  the  tower,  1  m. 


Caikedral.  COLOGNE.  3.  RouU.     29 

the  admiration  of  every  beholder,  and  is  probably  the  most  magni- 
fieent  Gothic  edifice  in  the  ivorld^  stands  on  a  slight  eminence  about 
60  ft.  aboTO  the  Rhine,  partly  composed  of  Roman  remains,  near  the 
Central  Station.  As  early  as  the  9th  century  an  episcopal  church 
(see  p.  27)  occupied  this  site,  but  in  course  of  time  the  inhabitants 
regarded  it  as  unworthy  of  the  rapidly  increasing  size  and  prosperity 
of  their  city.  The  Archbishop  St.  Engelbert  first  entertained  the 
project  of  erecting  a  new  church  here,  but  in  consequence  of  his 
untimely  death  in  1225  (see  p.  32)  it  was  never  executed.  His 
second  suoeessor  Conrad  of  Hochstaden  (see  p.  32),  after  the  old 
church  had  been  severely  injured  by  a  conflagration,  at  length  laid 
the  foundation-stone  of  the  present  structure  with  great  solemnity 
on  14th  Aug.,  1248.  The  designer  of  this  noble  work  is  believed  to 
have  been  MeisUr  Gerardy  to  whom  the  Chapter  made  a  grant  in 
1257  in  recognition  of  his  services. 

The  choir  was  the  first  part  of  the  building  proceeded  with. 
The  work  progressed  slowly,  chiefly  owing  to  the  struggles  between 
the  archbishops  and  the  citizens  (see  p.  27).  The  stone  used  in 
the  building  was  quarried  in  the  Drachenfels  (see  p.  82).  On 
27th  Sept.,  1322,  the  choir,  which  had  been  temporarily  terminated 
by  a  lofty  wall  towards  the  west,  was  solemnly  consecrated  by 
Arehbiahop  Heinriehy  Oraf  von  Vimeburg,  The  builder  soon 
proceeded  to  lay  the  foundations  of  the  N.  and  (in  1325)  S. 
transepts,  while  at  the  same  time  the  old  church,  which  was  still 
used  for  divine  service,  was  gradually  removed.  In  1388  the  nave 
was  sufficiently  advanced  to  be  temporarily  fitted  up  for  service, 
and  in  1447  the  bells  were  placed  in  the  S.  tower.  Subsequently 
the  enthusiasm  subsided,  and  by  the  end  of  the  15th  century  all 
hope  of  seeing  the  church  completed  according  to  the  original  plan 
was  abandoned.  The  unfinished  building  was  provided  with  a  tem- 
porary roof,  and  nothing  more  was  done  except  the  decoration  of  the 
interior.  Some  of  these  decorations,  such  as  those  of  the  high-altar, 
belong  to  the  degraded  style  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  The 
uncompleted  structure  became  more  and  more  dilapidated.  In  1796 
the  building  was  converted  by  the  French  into  a  hay-magazine,  its 
ruin  being  rendered  more  complete  by  the  abstraction  of  the  lead 
from  the  roof. 

Frederick  William  III.  and  IV.,  kings  of  Prussia,  at  length 
rescued  the  desecrated  edifice  from  total  destruction.  The  former, 
at  the  suggestion  of  Sulpice  Boisser^e,  caused  it  to  be  examined  by 
the  eminent  architect  Schinkel  in  1816,  and  gave  instructions  for 
its  restoration.  The  work  of  renovation,  however,  was  not  begun 
till  1823.  It  was  at  first  carried  on  under  the  superintendence  of 
AhUrt  (d.  1833),  and  afterwards  under  that  of  the  talented  Ztoimer, 
a  thorough  master  of  the  Gothic  style  (d.  1861).  On  Zwirner's  death 
Herr  Voigtel  (b.  1829)  succeeded  to  his  office,  and  carried  the  work 
to  completion,    Zwimer  was  the  first  to  form  the  project  of  com- 


30     RouU3.  COLOGNE.  Cathedral, 

pleting  the  cathedral,  an  idea  hailed  with  general  enthusiasm.  The 
foundation-stone  of  the  new  part  of  the  building  was  laid  on  4th 
Sept.,  1842,  and  more  than  15,000^  were  afterwards  spent  yearly  on 
the  undertaking,  the  greater  part  of  this  amount  heing  defrayed  by 
government,  the  remainder  by  private  subscriptions,  societies,  and 
the  proceeds  of  a  lottery.  The  entire  sum  expended  between  1842 
and  1880  amounted  to  upwards  of  900,000^.  The  last  stone  of  the 
huge  S.  tower  was  placed  in  position  in  August,  1880,  and  on  the 
Idth  Oct.  of  the  same  year  the  completion  of  the  Cathedral  was  cel^ 
ebrated  in  the  presence  of  the  Emperor  William  and  almost  all  the 
sovereign  princes  of  the  German  Empire. 

The  cathedral  is  a  cruciform  structure  (see  Plan,  p.  23),  the 
nave  being  flanked  with  double,  and  the  transept  with  single  aisles. 
Total  length  148  yds.,  breadth  67  yds.,  length  of  transepts  94  yds., 
height  of  the  walls  150  ft.,  height  of  the  roof  201  ft.,  height  of  the 
central  tower  rising  over  the  transept  357  ft.  The  towers,  512  ft.  in 
height,  are  the  loftiest  in  Europe.  This  enormous  mass  of  masonry 
is  enlivened  by  a  profusion  of  flying  buttresses,  turrets,  gurgoyles, 
galleries,  cornices,  foliage,  etc. 

The  *  W.  FafadCy  which  has  been  completed  entirely  in  accord- 
ance with  the  still  extant  original  design  of  the  14th  cent. ,  with 
its  two  huge  towers,  the  principal  portal  between  them ,  and  the 
vast  middle  window,  is  a  superb  example  of  strictly  consistent  Go- 
thic workmanship.  The  towers  consist  of  four  stories,  of  which  the 
three  lower  are  square  in  form,  while  the  fourth  are  octagonal, 
crowned  with  elegant  open  spires. 

The  Crane  on  the  S.  tower,  which  had  stood  there  for  400  years  and 
constituted  one  of  the  chief  landmarks  of  Cologne,  was  removed  in  1868. 

The  largest  of  the  Bells  in  the  S.  tower  is  the  Kaisergloeke ,  which 
was  cast  in  1874  with  the  metal  of  French  guns ,  and  weighs  25  tons. 
The  next  two  in  point  of  size,  east  in  1447  and  1448,  weigh  11  and  6  tons. 

The  principal  portal  is  93  ft.  in  height  and  31  ft.  in  width ; 
the  side  portals  38  ft.  high  and  18  ft.  wide ;  the  central  window  48 
ft.  high  and  20  ft.  wide.  The  portal  of  the  S.  tower  was  decorated 
in  the  beginning  of  the  15th  cent,  with  excellent  sculptures,  prob- 
ably by  Meiaier  Conrad  Kuyn, 

The  arms  of  the  transept  are  terminated  by  the  N.  and  S.  por- 
tals, which  were  completed  in  1859,  having  been  built  entirely  from 
Zwirner's  designs,  as  the  original  plans  were  no  longer  extant.  The 
N,  Portal  is  executed  in  a  simple  style,  while  the  *S,  Portal  is  elab- 
orately decorated,  and  embellished  with  statues  designed  by  Schwan- 
thaler  and  presented  by  the  Emp.  WiUiam  (then  Prince  of  Prussia). 

The  *  Choir,  completed  in  1322,  and  flanked  with  seven  chapels, 
exhibits  in  its  lower  parts  the  simple  and  dignified  forms  of  the 
early  Gothic  style ,  while  in  the  upper  parts  the  full  magnificence 
and  bold  outlines  of  the  consummated  art  are  displayed. 

The  **Iktbriob,  which  is  borne  by  56  pillars  ,  is  130  yds.  in 
length.    The  nave  is  16  yds.  wide  from  the  centre  of  one  pillar  to 


CathedfraL  COLOGNE.  3.  BouU.     31 

that  of  the  one  0|^p08ite,  and  146  ft.  in  height ;  each  of  the  inner 
aisles  is  7V2  Y^^m  c<^ch  of  the  outer  9  yds.  ivlde;  each  of  the  four 
aisles  is  60  feet  high.  The  area  of  the  interior  is  7399  sq.  yds. 
In  1863  the  partition  which  for  centuries  had  separated  the  nave 
from  the  choir  (see  p.  29)  was  removed.  The  effect  produced  by  the 
ensemble  is  now  singularly  impreesiye. 

Nayb  andTBANSBFT.  The  large  stained-glass  window  above  the 
W.  portal ,  executed  by  Mildc  of  LQbeck ,  was  presented  by  the 
Grown  Prince  and  the  Ciown  Princess  of  Germany.  The  five  stained - 
glass  windows  in  the  N.  (left)  aisle,  executed  In  1508  and  1509,  and 
representing  archbishops,  saints,  and  armorial  bearings,  are  fine  spe- 
cimens of  the  workmanship  of  that  period.  The  beautiful  modern 
windows  of  the  S.  aisle ,  by  Joseph  Fischer  and  Hellweger,  pre- 
sented in  1848  by  King  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria,  prove  that  the  onre 
almost  obsolete  art  has  regained  much  of  its  ancient  glory  :  Ist  win- 
dow, John  the  Baptist ;  2nd,  Nativity ;  3rd,  above.  Last  Supper,  and 
below,  Death  of  Christ ;  4th,  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost ;  5th,  Stoning 
of  St.  Stephen.  Below  are  prophets,  evangelists ,  and  fathers  of  the 
church  in  full  figure.  A  sixth  window ,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  S. 
Transept,  was  in  1855  filled  with  stained  glass,  designed  by  Hess 
and  others,  to  the  memory  of  Joseph  v.  Gorres  (d.  1848),  'catholics 
veritatis  defensori  glorioso*.  The  modem  stained-glass  windows  of 
the  S.  Portal,  presented  by  the  Emp.  William,  were  executed  in 
Berlin;  those  of  the  N.  portal,  commemorating  the  elevation  of 
Archbishop  v.  Geissel  of  Cologne  to  the  rank  of  cardinal ,  are  of 
Cologne  workmanship.  The  old  stained-glass  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
N.  Transept  is  partly  from  several  ancient  churches  of  Cologne,  now 
demolished,  and  partly  from  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin  in  the  cathedral. 

The  Choik  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  iron  screen,  which 
is  to  be  replaced  by  a  lofty  rood-loft.  We  enter  by  the  N.  (left) 
door.  Immediately  to  the  left  is  the  fine  tomb  of  Anion  Keyfeld 
(d.  1539).  Consoles  projecting  from  the  fourteen  pillars  of  the 
central  part,  or  High  Choir  proper,  bear  Statues  of  Christ,  Mary,  and 
the  Twelve  Apostles,  probably  executed  by  the  cathedral  architect 
Michael,  and  restored  in  1842 ;  these  are  overshadowed  by  artistic 
canopies.  The  marble  reliefs  in  front  of  the  high-altar  are  the 
work  of  the  same  hand.  The  modern  statues  in  the  transept  were 
put  up  in  1866.  The  nine  frescoes  In  the  arches  of  the  choir, 
executed  by  Steinle  in  1844 ,  represent  Angel  Choirs  in  the  eccle- 
siastical symbolic  style,  differently  coloured  in  accordance  with  their 
various  stages  of  development ;  they  are  best  viewed  from  the  gal- 
lery of  ^e  choir  (p.  34).  The  walls  behind  the  choir-stalls  are 
covered  with  tapestry  worked  by  ladies  of  Cologne,  illustrative  of  the 
Nicene  Creed  and  the  Seven  Sacraments.  The  handsome  carved 
Stalls  are  of  the  15th  century.  Under  brasses,  with  engraved  full- 
length  figures,  repose  Archbishop  v.  Spiegel  (d.  1835),  and  Cardinal 
von  Geissel  (d.  1864).   Above  the  triforium  of  the  choir  is  a  series 


32     Routes,  COLOGNE.  CathedtaL 

of  admirable  old  Stained  Glass  Windows,  representing  the  kings  of 
Jadah ,  etc. ,  belonging  to  the  end  of  the  13th  oi  the  beginning  of 
the  14th  century.  The  windows  in  the  transepts  are  filled  with 
stained  glass  presented  by  private  individuals. 

Choir  Chapels.  1.  The  Engeibert  Chapel  (first  to  the  left,  N. 
side)  contained  down  to  1633  the  remains  of  Archbishop  Engeibert 
von  Berg ,  who  was  assassinated  by  Friedrich  von  Isenburg  on  the 
Gevelsberg  near  Schwelm  in  1225  (p.  29) ,  but  they  are  now  pre- 
served in  a  magnificent  silver  reliquary  in  the  treasury.  The  tombs 
of  Archbishops  Adolf  and  Anton  von  Sckauenhurg  (16th  cent.)  are 
worthy  of  notice.  — Before  the  sacristy  is  the  sarcophagus  of  Arch- 
bishop Engeibert  von  der  Mark  (1364-68),  with  a  fine  figure  in 
sandstone,  executed  during  the  lifetime  of  the  deceased. 

2.  Matemus  Chapel.  Tomb  of  Archbishop  Philip  v.  Heinsberg 
(d.  1191)  in  the  form  of  a  town-wall  with  towers,  gates,  and  pin- 
nacles ;  also  a  good  statue.  The  altar-piece  is  by  Barthel  de  Bruyn 
(1548).  The  original  ground-plan  of  theS.W.  tower  of  the  cathedral 
and  an  original  view  of  the  S.  tower  from  the  E.  side ,  found  in 
Paris  in  1816,  are  preserved  here  under  glass  (comp.  3rd  chapel). 

3.  Chapel  of  St.  John.  ♦Tomb  of  Archbishop  Conrad  v.  Hoeh- 
staden  (d.  1261) ,  founder  of  the  cathedral ,  with  the  figure  of  the 
deceased  in  bronze,  dating  from  the  first  half  of  the  15th  cent., 
restored  in  1847.  The  Altar  of  St.  Clara ,  with  excellent  wood- 
carving  ,  representing  the  Passion ,  and  paintings  on  the  wings  be- 
longing to  the  school  of  the  Meister  Wilhelm ,  presented  by  the 
brothers  Boisser^e,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  Under  glass  in  a  massive 
oaken  frame  is  here  preserved  the  original  sketch  on  parchment  of 
the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral  with  the  two  towers  in  their  com- 
pleted form.  Part  of  this  interesting  design  was  found  at  Darmstadt 
in  1814,  the  rest  at  Paris  in  1816. 

4.  Chapel  of  the  Three  Kings.  Here  were  formerly  preserved 
the  'Bones  of  the  Magi',  or  'Three  Kings',  which  were  brought  by 
the  Empress  Helena  to  Constantinople.  They  were  afterwards  taken 
to  Milan,  and  in  1164  presented  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  to  Arch- 
bishop Relnald  von  Dassele,  by  whom  they  were  removed  to  Cologne. 
The  reliquary  in  which  they  are  preserved  is  now  in  the  treasury 
(p.  33).  The  marble  mausoleum  erected  in  this  chapel  dates 
from  the  second  half  of  the  17th  century.  —  Below  the  centre 
window  is  a  valuable  relief,  in  gilded  bronze,  of  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi  (1516).  On  the  S.  side  is  the  tomb  of  Archbishop  Ernst 
von  Bay  em  (d.  1612).  The  other  Electors  of  the  House  of  Bavaria 
repose  outside  this  chapel.  The  heart  of  Marie  de  MSdieis  (p.  42) 
is  also  buried  under  a  stone  without  inscription  in  front  of  the  chap- 
el. Opposite,  at  the  back  of  the  high-altar,  is  the  tomb  of  Arch- 
bishop Dietrich  von  Mors  (d.  1463),  probably  altered  at  a  later  date. 

5.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Agnes  contains  the  celebrated  *I)ombild, 
•\  large  winged  picture  representing  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi  in 


Cathedral.  COLOGNR.  3.  Route,     33 

the  centre,  St.  Gereon  and  St.  Ursula  on  the  wings ,  and  the  An- 
nunciation on  the  outside. 

Thifl  is  doubtless  tbe  picture  alluded  to  in  Diirer's  diary  of  his  tra- 
vels in  the  Low  Countries,  in  which  he  mentions  his  paying  two  Veiss- 
pfennige^  to  see  the  picture  which  ''MtUUr  Bttfftn"  had  painted  at  Co- 
logne. It  was  this  notice  that  led  to  the  conjecture  that  Stephan  Loch- 
ner  was  Uie  author  of  the  painting.  There  is  no  inscription  on  the 
picture  itself ,  the  supposed  traces  of  writing  being  merely  ornamental 
flourishes.  The  picture,  which  is  of  imposing  dimenaioni ,  occupies  an 
intermediate  position  between  the  ideal  conceptions  of  mediseval  times, 
and  the  modem  realism  introduced  by  the  Dutch  school.  As  the  finest 
work  of  the  Early  German  School  it  has  received  great  attention  from 
connoisseurs,  and  justly  occupies  an  important  place  in  the  history  of  art. 

lu  the  middle  of  the  chapel  is  the  Sarcophagus  of  8t,  Irmgardis 
(11th  cent.),  adorned  with  Gothic  arches  and  painted  figures  of  saints. 

0.  Chapel  of  8t,  Michael,  Marble  tombstone  of  Archbishop  Wal- 
ram  of  Julich  (d.  1349).  Carved  altar  of  the  15th  century. 

7.  Chapel  of  St,  Stephen,  Stone  sarcophagus  of  Archbishop 
Oero  (d.  976),  of  the  10th  cent.,  a  relic  of  the  old  cathedral,  upon 
which  was  placed  in  1802  the  portrait-statue  of  the  Imperial  general 
Von  Jlochkirchen  (who  fell  at  Landau  in  1703),  by  Fortini. 

8.  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  (properly  speaking  the  last  bay  of  the 
outor  S.  aisle).  Tombstone  of  Archbishop  Reinald  von  Dassele  (d. 
1167,  see  above),  upon  which  the  marble  statue  of  Archbishop 
Wilhelm  von  Qenney  (d.  1362)  was  placed  in  1842.  Opposite  is  the 
sarcophagus  of  Count  Gottfried  von  Amsherg  (d.  136o).  Near  the 
altar  is  the  *Monument  of  Archbishop  Frederick  of  Saarwerden  (d. 
1414),  consisting  of  a  figure  of  the  archbishop  in  bronze  on  a  sarco- 
phagus admirably  decorated  with  figures  of  saints,  the  whole  restored 
in  1847.  —  The  altar,  which  was  designed  by  Zwimer  in  1856,  is 
adorned  "with* Overbeck's  Assumption^  purchased  in  1855  for  900i.  On 
the  next  wall-pillar  is  the  so-called  Madonna  of  Milan,  probably  a 
Geiman  work  of  the  14th  century.  —  The  Stained  Glass  of  this 
chapel,  executed  at  Cologne  in  1857 ,  represents  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Virgin,  copied  from  ancient  mural  paintings  discovered 
in  1842  during  the  restoration  of  the  choir. 

By  a  pillar  at  the  entrance  to  the  S.  Transept  is  the  Statue  of 
St.  Christopher,  about  10  ft.  in  height,  dating  from  the  16th  century. 
The  carved  altar  by  the  E.  wall  of  this  transept,  in  the  late-Gothic 
style,  is  from  the  church  of  St.  Maria  ad  Gradus. 

The  Treasury  (entrance  from  the  X.  ambulatory)  contains  the 
golden  *ReUquary  of  the  Magi ,  a  costly  specimen  of  Romanesque  work- 
manship, probably  executed  in  the  years  1190-1200.  It  was  seriously 
injured  in- 1794,  when  carried  away  for  concealment  from  the  French, 
but  was  restored  in  1807.  The  silver  "* Shrine  of  St.  Bngelherty  in  the 
style  of  the  Renaissance,  dates  from  1633.  There  are  also  several  valuable 
Momtrances,  including  one  of  the  14th  cent.,  another  of  the  17th  cent, 
191/2  lbs.  in  weight,  and  thickly  set  with  precious  stones,  and  a  third 
presented  in  1848  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  Processional  Cross  of  the  12th  century. 
An  ''Osculvm  Pacts'.,  of  the  16th  cent,  richly  decorated  with  enamels, 
pearls,  and  precious  stones;  Sword  of  Justices  sacerdotal  vestments; 
ten  admirably-carved  ivory  tablets  by  Melchior  Paulus  (1708-1733) ,  with 
scenes  from  the  Passion,   etc.  —  The  Sacristy  contains  a  fine  ciborium 

BAEOBKfiK''s  Rhine.     10th  Edit.  3 


34     BouUS.  OOLOGNE.  Museum. 

and   old  stained  glass.  —   In   the  Cathedral  Library  are  the  Hildebold 
Codices,  returned  from  Darmstadt  in  1868. 

The  visitor  should  not  omit  to  walk  round  the  '*Inner  OalUry  of  the 
Choir  and  those  on  the  Exterior  of  the  Choir ^  or  to  ascend  the  Central  or  one 
of  the  W.  Tower$  (adm.  by  card,  see  p.^28i  attendant  at  the  S.  portal,  where 
the  ascent  begins),  as  a  better  idea  may  thus  be  formed  of  the  grandeur  of 
the  structure.  The  external  gallery,  or  better  still  the  open  gallery  of  the 
central  tower,  commands  an  extensive  ^Pkospbct  over  the  sea  of  houses, 
the  plain  intersected  by  the  Rhine,  and  the  Seven  Mts.  in  the  distance. 

The  ArehiepisoopalMiueixm  (PI.  16 :  £,  6 ;  admission  in  summer 
daily,  9-1  and  3-6 ;  in  winter  on  Wednesdays,  Sundays,  and  holi- 
days, 10-1 ;  fee  50  pf.),  opposite  the  S.  gate  of  the  cathedral,  is 
established  in  a  chapel,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Archiepiscopal 
Palace  and  re-erected  in  1665.  It  contains  a  collection  of  ecclesiasti- 
cal and  other  objects  of  mediasval  art,  of  which  the  most  valuable  is 
a  Virgin  belonging  to  the  Priests'  Seminary,  by  an  able  Master  of 
the  Old  Cologne  School  (p.  2^). 

The  Iron  Bridge  (PI.  F,  5,  6),  which  crosses  the  Rhine  to  the 
E.  of  the  cathedral  (completed  in  1859),  is  broad  enough  for  a 
double  line  of  rails  and  a  separate  roadway  for  ordinary  traffic.  It 
is  453  yds.  long,  and  47  ft.  above  the  average  level  of  the  water. 
Over  the  entrance  on  the  left  (Cologne)  bank  is  an  Equestrian  Statue 
of  Frederick  William  IV.  by  Blaser,  on  the  right  bank  an  ^Equestrian 
Statue  of  William  I.  by  Drake,  both  erected  in  1867.  The  approach 
to  the  bridge  on  the  left  bank  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  choir  of  the 
cathedral.    Deutz,  on  the  right  bank,  see  p.  46. 

In  an  open  space  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  cathedral,  rises  the 
^Mnsenm,  or  Wallr a f-Richartz- Museum  (PI.  17;  E,  4),  built  in 
the  Gothic  (Tudor)  style  by  Felten  in  1855-61,  the  funds  for  its 
erection  (about  30,000i.)  having  been  presented  to  the  city  by  Herr 
Richartz,  a  wealthy  merchant  (d.  1861).  The  stately  building  faces 
the  N. ,  while  at  the  back  are  two  wings ,  with  handsome  late- 
Gothic  cloisters,  adjoining  the  church  of  the  Minorites.  The  nucleus 
of  the  collections  of  pictures  and  antiquities  is  formed  by  those 
bequeathed  by  Professor  Wallraf(d.  1824)  to  his  native  town.  The 
statues  which  adoni  the  building  externally,  by  Blaser,  Fuchs, 
Mohr,  and  Werres,  represent  characters  of  distinction  in  the  annals 
of  the  city.  The  museum  is  open  on  week-days,  in  summer  9-6,  in 
winter  9-4,  admission  75  pf.  (Wed.  gratis) ;  on  Sundays  and  holi- 
days, 9-1,  gratis;  closed  on  Easter-day,  Whitsunday,  and  Christ- 
mas-day. Handbook  to  the  museum  1  m,,  catalogue  of  pictures 
50  pf.,  of  Roman  antiquities  75  pf. 

Oround  Floor  and  Oloisters.  Entrance-hall,  on  the  right  and  left  of  the 
staircase,  busts  of  Wallraf  and  Richartz ,  in  marble  by  Blaeser.  —  To 
the  right  we  first  enter  a  large  Hall,  in  which  modern  sculptures  are 
usually  exhibited.  The  stands  in  the  centre  bear  a  series  of  admirable 
water-colours  by  Caspar  Scheuren  (Nos.  1003-1028),  illustrating  the  scenery, 
traditions,  history,  and  monuments  of  the  province  of  the  Rhine.  To  the 
left  we  obtain  a  view  from  above  of  the  Roman  mosaic  pavement  in  the 
cloisters.  —  We  next  enter  a  Saloon  containing  the  Roman  Antiquities: 
statuettes,  busi<i,  masks  (some  of  them  spurious).    ^1.  Colossal  marble  head 


Museum,  COLOaNE.  3.  Bouie.     35 

of  a  Medusa  found  at  Borne  ^  4.  Epicnrua^  9.  Scipio  Afrieanns;  21.  Julius 
Caesar;  casts  of  well-known  antiques.  —  The  adjacent  Saloon  contains  a 
collection  of  Bngrainngs^  Drcmingt^  ManuteripU,  and  also  of  Cotn«,  Small 
Works  of  Arty  Gtnu^  Carvings,  JUmains  of  Sculptures,  etc.  1080A,  Forty- 
two  cartoons  by  Samboux  for  the  tapestry  in  the  cathedral  (p.  31);  sketches 
by  Theod.  Mintrop,  The  periods  ofthe  day.  and  the  seasons. 

The  Uppks  Cloistsbs  contain  a  valuable  collection  of  German  pottery 
from  Siegburg,  Frechem,  and  Baren;  fine  specimens  of  Venetian  glass; 
Roman  glass  and  pottery;  cabinets  in  the  German  Renaissance  style;  a 
valuable  collection  of  thirty  scenes  in  Stained  Glass,  being  modern  copies 
of  old  masters  of  Cologne  and  the  Netherlands,  executed  at  Munich,  and 
bequeathed  by  the  brothers  Boisser^e.  Also  numerous  photographs  of 
celebrated  works  of  art.  —  The  Lower  Cloistbbs  contain  Roman  and 
mediflByal  stone-monuments.  Also  Mosaic  Pavements,  one  of  which  of  con- 
siderable size,  the  ^Mosaic  of  the  Sages'  (Ho.  90),  found  during  the  con- 
struction of  the  new  hospital,  bears  portraits  of  Diogenes,  Socrates ,  Aris- 
totle, Chilon,  Plato,  Cleobulus,  and  Sophocles;  it  consists  in  part  of 
small  squares  of  glass,  and  probably  dates  from  the  fourth  century.  Ho.  188. 
Remains  of  a  wall,  painted  alfresco;  *193.  Sarcophagus,  found  at  Cologne, 
with  reliefs  of  Hercules  liberating  Hesione,  Hercules  stealing  the  Delphic 
tripod,  Theseus  and  the  Minotaur,  and  two  dancing-girls;  196.  Metrical 
inscription  from  the  grave  of  a  boy ;  Votive  stones  to  Mercurius  Cissonius 
(10),  and  Semele  ^et  ejus  sororibus'  (25);  1.  Altar  of  Jupiter  Saxanns, 
found  in  the  Brohl  Valley  (p.  91) ,  and  erected  by  the  Roman  soldiers 
working  in  the  quarries  there;  a  hovering  form  with  a  smaller  figure  on 
the  shoulder,  recently  discovered.  Also  remains  of  the  mural  paintings 
from  the  Hansa-Saal  of  the  Rathhaus  by  Meister  Wilhelm  v.  K6ln  (p.  28), 
representing  the  'nine  good  heroes\ 

To  the  left  on  the  ground-floor  are  six  rooms  containing  pictures  of 
great  historical  interest  of  the  Eablt  Colookk  School,  which,  however, 
will  afford  little  satisfaction  to  the  visitor  who  regards  the  collection  from 
an  aesthetic  point  of  view  only.  The  Virgin  with  the  bean-blossom,  the 
Madonna  in  an  arbour  of  roses,  the  Descent  from  the  Cross  by  the  Master 
of  the  Lyversberg  Passion ,  and  the  Death  of  Mary  by  the  Meister  von 
Calcar  are  the  most  important  works.  We  hegin  with  Room  I.,  entered 
from  the  upper  cloisters,  (a)  Gothic  Pictures  (Hos.  30-39)  of  the  years 
1300-1370;  35.  Passion  in  27  sections;  36-39.  Passion.  —  (b)  Meister  Wil- 
helm and  his  School,  from  about  1350  to  1420  (Hos.  40-117).  "40. 
(Boom  II.)  Meister WUhelm,  Triptych:  the  Virgin  in  the  centre,  with  a 
bean-blossom  in  her  left  hand ,  and  the  Infant  Christ  on  her  right  arm ; 
on  the  left  St.  Catherine,  on  the  right  St.  Barbara.  41.  (Boom  II.)  Meister 
WUhelm  (?),  Christ  on  the  Cress  surrounded  by  Mary  and  eight  Apostles ; 
98.  St.  Veronica  with  the  napkin ;  99.  (Boom  I.)  Legend  of  St.  Ursula, 
with  a  view  of  the  city  of  Cologne.  —  (c)  Meister  Stephan  and  his  school, 
from  about  1420  to  1^  (Hos.  11846,  in  Boom  II.).  "118.  Madonna  in 
an  arbour  of  roses;  119-120.  St.  Ambrose  and  St.  Mark,  wings  of  a 
picture  by  this  master  in  the  museum  at  Darmstadt  (Ho.  168) ;  "121.  Last 
Judgment  (the  pictures  of  the  martyrdom  of  the  Twelve  Apostles  belong- 
ing to  this  work  are  in  the  Stadel  Gallery  at  Frankfort ,  and  six  saints, 
formerly  at  the  back  of  these,  are  now  m  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich). 
122, 123,  Scourging  and  Entombment  of  Christ.  —  (d)  Cologkb  School,  in- 
fluenced by  that  of  the  Van  Eycks,  from  1430  to  1560  (Hos.  147-445,  in 
Booms  IIl-VI.).  "151-158.  The  '•Lyversberg  Passion",  an  altar-piece  for- 
merly in  the  possession  of  a  Herr  Lyversberg,  after  whom  several  works 
by  the  same  hand  as  this  are  usually  named ;  "158-163.  Triptych ,  De- 
scent from  the  Cross  (1480),  on  the  wings  Andrew  and  Thomas ,  on  the 
outside  tbe  Assumption  of  Mary;  "164.  Christ  on  the  Cross;  1©.  Glori- 
fication of  Mary;  184.  Last  Judgment;  195.  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  196. 
Mass  of  St.  Gregory;  197,  198.  Wings  with  saints;  "199.  Triptych,  Mysti- 
cal marriage  of  St.  Catherine  with  the  Infant  Christ;  on  the  wings  SS. 
Bochus  and  Gudula  inside,  and  SS.  Achatius  and  Cecilia  outside.  205. 
So-called  'Altar-piece  of  St.  Thomas',  a  triptych:  in  the  centre  Christ 
appearing    to    the    doubting   Thomas;    inside   the    wings,    the    Madonna 

3» 


36     Itoute3.  COLOGNE.  Muneum. 

with  St.  John,  and  St.  Hippolytua  with  St.  Afra;  outside,  in  grisaille,  St. 
Symphorosa  with  her  seven  sons,  and  St.  Felicitas  with  her  seven  sons. 
«^.  Altar  of  the  Holy  Cross  (by  the  master  of  the  Boisser^e  St.  Bartho- 
lomew in  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich),  a  triptych ;  in  the  centre  Christ  on 
the  Gross,  on  the  wings  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Agnes.  ^207.  Death  of 
Mary  by  the  Meiater  von  Calear,  a  work  after  which  several  others  by 
the  same  hand  are  named ,  with  the  Donors  on  the  wings.  The  other 
pictures,  by  A.  von  Worms,  B.  Brupn,  and  other  later  masters  of  Cologne 
are  interesting  to  connoisseurs  only.  —  The  antechamber  adjoining  the 
entrance-hall  contains  a  few  modem  works  of  art. 

The  Staircase  is  adorned  with  '^Fsescobs  by  Steinle,  illustrative  of 
the  history  of  art  and  civilisation  at  Cologne.  The  scenes  begin  with  the 
picture  to  the  left  as  we  look  back  from  the  topmost  landing  of  the  stair. 
1.  Roman  and  Romanesque  Period:  Constantine  the  Great  (324-337)  on 
his  throne,  surrounded  by  warriors,  artists ,  and  others ,  some  of  whom 
hold  in  their  hands  plans  of  the  emperor's  buildings  at  Treves  and 
of  his  bridge  at  Cologne:  on  the  other  side,  Charlemagne  (716-814),  also 
enthroned,  with  his  retinue,  including  Eginhard,  Alcuin,  and  Paulus 
Diaconus.  Between  the  two  emperors  is  St.  Helena  with  her  attendants. 
In  the  comer  adjoining  Charlemagne  are  the  most  famous  archbishops 
of  Cologne:  St.  Hildebold  (d.  819)  with  the  model  of  the  old  cathedral,  St. 
Bmno  (d.  965)  with  the  church  of  St.  Pantaleon ,  Heribert  (d.  1021)  with 
the  church  of  the  Apostles ,  and  Anno  (d.  1075)  with  the  church  of  St. 
Gereon.  Next  to  these  is  the  Franconian  queen  Plectrudis  (8th  cent.) 
with  the  plan  of  St.  Maria  im  Capitol.  Below ,  in  the  adjoining  scenes, 
is  the  legend  of  Cologne :  St.  Maternus ,  the  first  bishop ,  baptising  con- 
verts in  the  Bhine,  St.  Gereon  with  his  companions,  St.  Ursula  and  her 
virgin  followers,  and  St.  Hermann  Joseph  in  St.  Maria  im  Capitol.  — 
Opposite,  on  the  wall  to  the  right,  is—  2.  The  Mediaeval  Period:  in  the 
centre  Albertus  Magnus ,  the  learned  theologian  of  Cologne,  with  his  pu- 
pils, including  Thomas  Aquinas  and  Duns  Scotus;  beyond  these  are 
mystics,  humanists,  and  artists.  On  the  other  side,  to  the  rieht  of  Albertns, 
is  Conrad  of  Hochstaden  (p.  27),  to  whom  the  architect  of  the  cathedral  sub- 
mits a  plan  of  the  edifice ;  farther  on,  Meister  Wilhelm  of  Cologne  and  Meister 
Stephan  5  then  the  two  burgomasters  welcoming  a  vessel  of  the  Hanseatic 
League.  In  the  subordinate  scenes,  the  popular  Festival  of  St.  John 
(p.  40),  the  arrival  of  the  relics  of  the  Magi,  a  tournament,  and  the 
industrial  activity  of  Cologne.  —  On  the  central  wall,  to  the  left  of  the 
door :  3.  Renaissance  and  Modem  Period :  to  the  left,  Bubens  receiving  the 
order  for  the  altar-piece  of  St.  Peter's  church  (p.  42);  Winckelmann 
studying  the  Laocoon;  in  the  centre  the  brothers  Boisserde  (p.  79)  and 
Friedrich  von  Schlegel  5  to  the  right,  Wallraf  and  Richartz,  the  founders  of 
the  museum.  Below,  the  Carnival  of  Cologne.  —  To  the  right  of  the  door : 
4.  Continuation  of  the  Cathedral:  completion  of  the  8.  portal  in  presence  of 
Frederick  William  IV. ,  the  architect  Zwirner ,  and  the  archbishop  Jo- 
hannes V.  Geissel.  Below,  the  society  for  advancing  the  building  opera- 
tions ,  and  the  vocal  societies  of  Cologne.  —  Above  the  central  entrance 
door,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  staircase ,  are  the  armorial  bearings  of 
Cologne,  with  Marsilius,  the  hero  of  Cologne,  and  Agrippina.  the  Boman 
empress.  —  From  the  highest  landing  we  enter  the  rooms  01  the  — 

Upper  Floor.  In  a  straight  direction  is  the  Antechamber  :  right,  *982  Aa^ 
.  Camphausen,  King  William  saluted  by  his  troops  after  the  battle  of  Sedan, 
with  Bismarck,  Moltke,  and  Boon  among  his  retinue ;  left,  966.  Simon  Meis- 
ter, Fred.  William  IV.  on  horseback.  —  Busts  of  Michael  Angelo  by 
C.  Mohr,  Rubens  by  Fr.  Meynen,  Wolfgang  Miiller  by  Hofmeister^  the 
brothers  Boisserde  and  Alex,  von  Humboldt  by  Ranch,  and  Simrock  by 
Rob.  Cauer. 

Rooms  to  the  Right  of  the  antechamber.  Collection  op  Modebn  Paint- 
iNGS.'^\RooM  I.  *Gustav  Richter,  Queen  Louisd  of  Prussia,  painted  in  1879  /v 
aud  presented  to  the  Museum  by  Herr  Joest  \  opposife,  A.  von  Werner, 
Fieldmarshal  Moltke.  Then,  Oronevaldy  Scene  from  ^Wieland  the  Smith' ; 
Bromeis,  Scene  in  the  Roman  Campagna.  —  Corner  Room.  963.  Kdhler, 
Miriam's  song  of  praise  after  the  passage  of  the  Red  Sea  by  the  Israelites  •, 


Church  of  the  Minorites.    COLOGNE.  3,  RauU.     37 

965b.  Seh»€rdff«burih,  Promenaderfl  outolde  the  gate;  967.  Saientin,  Pil- 
grims at  a  medicinal  spring;  Ropbet^  Sportamen;  C.  OUnther,  Theologians 
disputing;  Portraits  of  Ooethe  by  Babe  and  KoW>€;  Ad.  Schrddter^  Don 
Quixote;  942.  G.  Sehiek,  Bve;  *W9.  J.  W.  BchirffW,  Italian  landscape; 
9B4.  C.  L.  F.  Becker y  Hutten  crowned  witb  laurels;  970a.  Theod.  Mintrop^ 
^Maiwein\  witb  genii.  —  A  Gabikbt  with  modem  engravings  (adjoining 
which  are  the  exhibition  rooms  of  the  Kolner  KnnstTerein,  or  art-nnion) 
leads  to  —  Room  III.  (the  last),  the  principal  saloon  of  the  modem  masters^ 
E.  of  the  staircase.  No.  963.  Lessinff^  Landscape;  A.  Achet^aeh.  971a. 
Starting  of  a  tng-steamer.  Fish-market  at  Amsterdam ;  960.  Bdttetter,  Summer 
night  on  the  Rhine;  974.  J.  Schroder ^  Cromwell  at  the  sick-bed  of  his 
daughter;  990.  Filoty,  Galileo  in  prison;  %i.  Jordan.  Soup-day;  972.  Jtmmer- 
ma»f>,  Scouring  day;  952a.  C.  Bottmann^  Cefalh;  669a.  W.  Wider,  Tombola 
players  in  Trastevere  (Rome);  *966.  Bendemann,  Exiled  Jews;  961.  W. 
Camp AatMen.  Prince  Eugene  at  the  battle  of  Belgrade;  994  A.  StUckelberg, 
The  rustic  Romeo  and  Juliet  (from  a  tale  by  Keller);  991.  0.  Acheiibixehy 
Caatel  Oandolfo;  970.  Oeselschap,  Soiree  musicale;  992.  Vautier^  Funeral 
feast;  Ed.  nudebrandt,  Landscape. 

Rooms  to  the  Left.  Rook  I.  Works  of  the  early  Franoonxam,  Saxon, 
▲Ni>  SwABiAN  Schools  (of  little  importance):  022.  A.  DUrer,  Piper 
and  drummer;  Cranach  the  Elder y  534.  Mary  Magdalene,  536.  Jesus  as 
a  boy.  551-653.  Joachim  Patiniry  Portraits.  —  Rooh  II.  Netherlands  and 
Italian  Schools  etc.;  beginning  to  the  right  of  the  entrance:  652 A. 
Adrictn  Brouver,  Old  peasant ;  *dO()  A.  Franc.  FrandOy  Madonna  and  Child, 
an  admirable  work  presented  by  Boisser^e;  Franc,  de  HerrerOy  Peter's  de- 
nial ;  Jan  van  der  KapelUy  Sea-piece ;  Kupefzki.  Portrait ;  If.  Maaty  Portrait ; 
817.  Tinioretto ,  Ovid  and  Corinna ;  e64A.  Carl  Fabritius  (pupil  of  Rem- 
brandt), Portrait;  652 c.  J.  Oerrits  Cu^py  Portrait;  901.  Pft.  de  Champaigney 
Portrait  of  Jabach,  the  wealthy  patron  of  art;  *6i8.  Ruben*.  Holy  Family  / 
(probably  by  pupils);  624.  Van  Dyck.,  Portrait  of  Jabach;  941.  Davidy  Peri- 
cles with  the  body  of  his  son  Paralus;  632.  O.  Bonthont,  Holy  Family; 
617.  RubenSy  St.  Francis  receiving  the  stigmata;  801.  Inn.  da  ImolOy  Ma- 
donna; 802.  Cfiac.  Franciay  The  Apostle  Andrew;  812,  813.  P.  VeronesCy 
Heads  as  studies;  633.  JordaenSy  Prometheus.  634 A.  Jordaens,  Portrait; 
G.  van  den  Eeckhout,  Esther  and  Haman ;  J.  van  der  Meer,  Landscape ; 
Janaon  van  Keuieny  Portraits ;  Ph.  de  Konincky  Landscape.  —  The  following 
rooms  contain  numerous  mediocre  works  by  Italian  and  French  masters. 

At  the  back  of  the  Museum  is  the  Chnroh  of  the  Minorites 
(PI.  56 ;  £,  4),  an  eaily-Gothic  building  of  simple  but  handsome  pro- 
portions,  probably  commenced  in  1220,  but  not  completed  till  forty 
years  later,  and  recently  restored  at  the  cost  of  the  lateHerrRichartz 
(p.  34).  It  is  65  yds.  in  length ;  the  nave  is  67  ft.  high  and  24  yds. 
broad.  The  large  window  above  the  portal  in  the  principal  fa^de  and 
the  elegant  spire  (of  last  century),  restored  in  the  style  of  the  original, 
are  specially  striking.  The  fine  sacristy  has  a  round  pillar  in  the 
centre.  The  church  contains  the  tombstone  of  the  celebrated  theolo- 
gical disputant  X>um  Scotus  (d.  1309),  with  the  inscription :  Scotia 
me  genuity  Anglia  me  suscepity  Qallia  me  docuity  Colonia  me  tenet. 

In  an  open  space  in  the  Comodien-Str.  is  the  Appellhofgebaude 
(PI.  1 ;  E,  3),  the  seat  of  the  Oberlandesgericht  or  court  of  justice 
for  the  Prussian  province  of  theBhine.  The  imposing  newN.  facade 
was  completed  in  1886.  — •  Farther  on,  in  the  Zeughaus-Str.,  on 
the  left,  is  the  Arsenal(V\.  33 ;  E,  3)  with  the  Quard-Houacy  erected 
in  1601 ;  on  the  right  are  the  palatial  Oovemment Buildings (Fl.  22; 
E,  F,  3),  erected  in  1830.  Farther  W.  in  the  same  direction,  at 
the  comer  of  the  Apern-Str.,  is  the  Romerthurm  (PI.  24;  E,  3), 


38     RouU3.  COLOGNE.  Bathhaua, 

an  ancient  round  tower  inlaid  with  stones  of  different  colour.  It  once 
formed  an  angle  of  the  ancient  Roman  town,  considerable  fragments 
of  the  walls  of  which  still  exist  in  the  vicinity  (on  the  ^Burgmauer'), 
and  is  undoubtedly  to  a  great  extent  of  Roman  origin,  but  the  upper 
part  is  modern.  The  Steinfeldergasse  leads  hence  to  8t,  QertonSy 
see  p.  44. 

The  Synagogue  (PI.  63;  E,  4),  in  the  Glockengasse ,  an  edifice 
in  the  Moorish  style,  designed  by  Zwirner,  and  built  in  1859-61  at 
the  expense  of  the  banker  Oppenheim,  is  covered  with  a  handsome 
gilded  dome.  —  Farther  up  the  same  street  Is  the  Theatre  (PI.  29 ; 
E,  3),  designed  by  Raschdorff,  and  completed  in  1872. 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Museum ,  at  the  small  Wallrafs- 
Platz,  begins  the  narrow  HoehBtrasse  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  the  busiest 
street  in  Cologne,  which  with  its  prolongations  (Marzellen-Str.  and 
Eigelstein  to  the  N.,  Hochpforte  and  Severins-Str.  to  the  S.)  inter- 
sects the  entire  city  from  N.  to  S.  The  street  is  gradually  being 
widened  by  the  erection  of  all  new  buildings  farther  back  than  ^e 
old  ones.  To  the  right,  in  the  centre  of  the  Hochstrasse,  is  the 
Konigin-Augusta-Passage  (PI.  E,  4),  an  arcade  with  shops. 

Between  the  Hochstrasse  and  the  Rhine  are  situated  several 
important  buildings,  not  far  from  each  other. 

The*Batbhaiui(Pl.  21;E,5),  an  interesting  structure,  builtin  dif- 
ferent centuries  and  recently  restored ,  stands  on  the  substructions 
of  a  Roman  stronghold  (probably  the  Prajtorium),  of  the  arches  of 
which  some  remains  are  still  visible  in  the  cellar.  The  oldest  part 
of  the  present  building  (14th  cent.)  is  the  central  portion  (with  the 
Hansa-Saal),  looking  towards  the  Rathhaus-Platz.  In  1569-71  an 
elegant  *  Portico  In  the  Renaissance  style  was  builtin  front  of  this, 
from  the  plans  of  Wilhelm  Vemickel  (whose  designs ,  along  with 
those  of  his  competitors,  are  still  preserved  in  the  municipal  ar- 
chives), bearing  long  Latin  inscriptions  and  reliefs  alluding  to  the 
tradition  of  Burgomaster  Gryn's  fight  with  the  lion  (see  below).  The 
handsome,  five-storied  Rathhausthurm,  formerly  adorned  with  num- 
erous statuettes,  was  built  in  1407-14,  from  the  proceeds  of  the 
fines  imposed  upon  noble  families  in  1396.  —  The  E.  portions  of 
the  structure,  facing  the  Altenmarkt,  were  erected  in  1549-50 ;  the 
facade,  richly  ornamented  with  reliefs  and  statues,  was  altered  in 
1591,  but  restored  by  Raschdorff  in  the  original  style  in  1870. 

The  Lttwenhof,  built  by  Lorem  in  1540  in  the  Renaissance  style,  then 
newly  introduced  into  Gennany,  is  so  named  in  reference  to  the  tradition 
(above  alluded  to)  that  Archbishop  Engelbert  sought  the  life  of  Burgo- 
master Gryn,  and  threw  the  obnoxious  citizen  into  a  lion^s  den  in  his  palace, 
from  which,  however,  his  intended  victim  contrived  to  escape  unhurt. 

The  *Eansa-Saal,  or  Hanseatic  Hall  (90  yds.  long,  8  yds.  wide.  32  ft. 
high),  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Rathhaus,  recently  restored,  is  saia  to  be 
that  in  which  the  first  general  meeting  of  the  League  took  place  on  i9th 
Nov.,  1367.  The  S.  wall  is  entirely  occupied  by  nine  rich  canopies,  with 
large  figures  vigorously  executed  in  stone,  representing  heathen,  Jewish,  and 
Christian  heroes  (Hector,  Alexander  the  Great,  Csesar ;  Joshua,  David,  Judas 
Maccabseus^    Charlemagne,  King  Arthur,    Godfrey  de   Bouillon) ^   above 


Oiinenieh.  COLOGNE.  3.  RouU,     39 

ftheM,  bat  smaller,  Ch»rl«8  IV.,  who  fortifled  th«  town  and  presented  it 
with  the  privileges  of  a  market,  as  the  figures  on  the  right  and  left  indicate. 
In  the  windows  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  different  imperial  fami- 
lies of  Germany,  on  the  long  wall  those  of  forty-five  patrician  families  of 
Cologne,  on  the  ceiling  those  of  the  burgomasters  of  Cologne,  from  1346 
to  the  downfall  of  the  independence  of  the  city.  The  two  upper  series 
are  the  arms  of  the  twenty-two  guilds.  —  The  principal  apartment  of  Uie 
portion  of  the  Bathhaus  which  was  erected  in  1660  (towards  the  Alten- 
markt)  is  the  room  called  the  '^Museher  (shell),  completed  in  1761.  The 
Tapestry,  with  which  it  is  adorned,  was  executed  by  Yos  from  drawings  by 
'Wouverman,  and  was  purchased  by  the  Town  Council  from  the  heirs  of 
Elector  Clement  Augustus.  —  The  former  RathiSadl  is  in  the  tower.  The 
fine  carved  door  was  executed  by  Melckior  Reidt  in  1608;  to  the  same 
period  belong  the  stucco  ceiling,  ornamented  with  medallions  of  the 
emperors,  and  the  door  leading  from  the  Arsenal  into  the  committee-room. 
In  the  Rathhaus-Platz,  opposite  the  Rathhaus,  is  the  late-Gothic 
Chapel  of  the  Rathhaus  (now  used  by  an  Old  Catholic  congre- 
gation) ,  which  formerly  contained  the  Dombild  (p.  32) ,  and  was 
consecrated  in  1426.  The  spire  is  of  graceful  proportions;  the  sa- 
cristy dates  from  1474.  —  The  handsome  new  Civic  Library  (PI.  2), 
In  the  Portalsgasse,  was  erected  by  Hr.  Weyer  In  the  style  of  the 
Renaissance.  —  A  bronze  Statue  of  Field- Marshal  Afoltjke,  by 
Schaper,  was  erected  in  the  adjacent  Laurenz-Platz  in  1881. 

In  the  Altenmarkt  (PI.  E,  6)  is  a  monumental  Fountain,  in  the 
German  Renaissance  style,  after  a  design  by  Albermann.  The  chief 
figure  is  a  statue  of  Johann  von  Werth  (d.  1651 ;  p.  13),  a  famous 
caTalry  general  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War ;  the  figures  of  a  peasant 
and  maiden  at  the  sides  refer  to  the  tradition  that  he  became  a 
soldier  on  account  of  a  love- disappointment. 

The  old  Irish  Church  ('Schottenklrche')  of  OroM  St.  Martin 
(PI.  54 ;  E,  5),  formerly  situated  on  an  island  in  the  Rhine ,  dates 
originally  from  the  Merovingian  period.  The  existing  church,  built 
by  Abbot  Adelhard,  after  the  repeated  destruction  of  previous  edi- 
fices, was  consecrated  by  Archbishop  Philip  in  1172.  The  massive 
E.  portion,  with  its  imposing  tower  (270  ft.  high)  surrounded  by 
four  corner- turrets,  seems  to  have  been  constructed  In  the  13th 
century,  and  was  restored  In  1437  and  1454-99.  (The  S.W.  comer- 
turret  fell  in  1526,  and  was  not  restored  till  lo70.)  Before  the 
handsome,  pointed  W.  portal  stood  a  porch  covered  with  groined 
vaulting,  probably  dating  from  the  14th  century,  one  half  of  which 
was  removed  at  the  last  restoration. 

In  the  Interior,  in  the  corner  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  is  a  marble 
font^  adorned  with  lions'  heads  and  foliage,  said  to  have  been  presented 
by  Pope  Leo  III.  in  803.  On  the  upper  side-altars  are  six  modem  statues 
by  Hoffmann  of  Rome ,  on  the  left  SS.  Martinus,  Eliphius ,  and  Brigitta, 
on  the  right  the  Virgin  with  angels.  The  N.  aisle  contains  a  fine  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  by  Du  Bois,  and  Christ  before  Annas,  by  Bonthorst. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Rathhaus  is  the  ^Oftnenieh  (PI.  10 ;  D,  5),  with 
its  pinnacles  and  turrets,  built  in  1441-52  at  a  cost  of  80,000  florins, 
to  serve  as  a  ^Herren  Tanzhaus'  and  banquet-saloon  on  occasions 
when  the  Town  Council  desired  to  entertain  distinguished  guests 
with  a  magnificence  worthy  of  the  city.     Besides  the  'Giirzenlch^ 


40     Rout£3.  COLOGNE.        St.  Maria  im  Capitol, 

property  the  Council  purchased  several  other  pieces  of  ground  to 
form  a  site  for  this  imposing  building.  The  architect  was  Johann 
vonBuren.  The  first  grand  festival  was  held  here  in  1475  in  honour 
of  Emperor  Frederick  III.  Other  festivals  took  place  in  1486,  1505, 
1521,  and  on  several  occasions  in  the  16th  century.  In  the  17th 
and  18th  centuries  the  large  saloon  fell  into  decay,  and  was  used  as 
a  magazine  till  1857,  when,  after  undergoing  a  thorough  renovation 
at  the  hands  of  Jul.  Raschdorflf,  it  was  restored  to  its  original  uses. 
This  is  the  finest  of  the  ancient  secular  edifices  of  Cologne. 

Above  the  E.  gateways  are  statues  of  Agrippa  and  Marsilitu^  the 
founder  and  the  defender  of  Cologne  in  the  Roman  period,  executed  by  Mohr, 
painted  by  Eleinerte  in  the  ancient  style,  and  erected  in  1859  in  place  of 
the  old  ones,  which  had  become  injured  by  exposure  to  the  weather. 

Interior  (adm.  50  pf.).  On  the  ground-floor  is  the  former  magazine, 
converted  by  Herr  Wcyer  in  1875  into  a  fine  Exchange  Hall.  —  On  the 
first  floor  is  the  spacious  *Fsbt-Saal  (58  yds.  long,  24  broad),  borne  by 
twenty-two  richly  carved  wooden  columns,  with  a  gallery.  The  modern 
stained-glass  windows  represent  the  armorial  bearings  of  Julich ,  Cleve, 
Berg,  and  Mark,  the  mediaeval  allies  of  Cologne,  with  St.  Peter  as  the 
patron  saint  of  the  city,  two  Imperial  eagles,  the  arms  of  Cologne  itself, 
those  of  six  burgomasters  of  the  period  when  the  building  was  first  erected, 
and  those  of  the  twenty-two  guilds.  The  two  large  Chimney  Pieces  of  the 
15th  century,  richly  carved  with  scenes  from  the  early  history  of  the 
town,  are  worthy  of  inspection.  —  The  Antbchaubbb  ('Kleine  Giirzenich'' 
or  ^Isabellen-Saar)  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  by  Schmitz  of  Diissel- 
dorf,  representing  the  entry  of  the  Empress  Isabella  (wife  of  Frederick  II.), 
the  legend  of  the  Cologne  wood-cutting  expedition  (viz.  that  Harsilius 
saved  the  town  from  a  beleaguering  enemy  by  sending  out  armed  women 
against  them  on  the  pretext  of  felling  wood),  and  the  Festival  of  St.  John 
(a  symbolical  washing  away  of  the  evil  of  the  year  in  the  Rhine,  men- 
tioned by  Petrarch,  who  visited  Cologne  in  1333).  —  Concerts,  see  p.  25. 

In  the  Hbumabkt  (PI.  D,  5),  to  the  E.  of  the  Gurzenich,  rises 
the  Monument  of  Frederick  William  III.,  erected  in  1878  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Rhenish  provinces.  It  consists  of  a  colos- 
sal equestrian  statue  of  the  king  on  a  lofty  pedestal,  surround- 
ed by  statues  of  the  principal  statesmen  and  warriors  who  co- 
operated with  him  in  raising  Prussia  to  the  rank  of  a  first- 
class  power  and  in  freeing  the  Rhenish  provinces  from  French 
domination  (Bliicher,  Stein,  Arndt,  Humboldt,  etc.).  The  reliefs 
on  the  sides  indicate  the  progress  of  the  Rhenish  provinces  in 
science,  art,  commerce,  and  manufactures.  The  chief  figures  and 
the  statues  on  one  side  are  by  Oustavus  Bldser  (1813-1874),  those 
at  the  front  and  back  by  Dro&c ,  the  rest  by  SchweinitZj  Tondeur, 
and  Biichting.  The  pedestal  was  designed  hy  SchieveWein  (d.  1867). 
—  Turning  to  the  right  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Heumarkt,  we 
reach  — 

The  Church  of  *8t.  Maria  im  Ci^itol  (^Zint  Mdrjen  in  local  speech ; 
PI.  50),  consecrated  in  1049  by  Pope  Leo  IX.,  a  cruciform  edifice 
in  the  Romanesque  style,  constructed  on  an  imposing  and  somewhat 
peculiar  plan.  The  choir  and  transept  (apparently  of  the  12th 
century)  terminate  in  semicircular  apses  with  an  ambulatory 
round  each,  and  impart  to  the  end  of  the  building  the  trefoil  shape, 


St.  Qtorgt, 


COLOGNE. 


3.  B(AUe.    41 


of  which  this  is  the  earliest  example  at  Cologne.  The  vaulting  of 
the  nave  dates  from  1250.  The  church  owes  its  name  to  the  tradi- 
tion that  this  site  was  once  occupied  by  the  Roman  Capitol ,  which 
was  succeeded  by  the  palace  of  the  Franconian  kings.  The  original 
edifice,  of  which  no  remains  exist,  is  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Plectmdis,  wife  of  Pepin  of  Htfristal,  and  mother  of  Charles  Martel. 

The   ^Intebior  baa 
been       decorated     with 
modem  frescoes,  begun 
by   Steinle  (paintings  in 
the  apse)  and  E.  Oattke^ 
and  completed  by  Ooeb- 
bels   under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Essenvein  of 
Knremberg.     Several  of 
these     are    in    the    old 
Koxnanesqne  style,   and 
therefore  somewhat  nn- 
pleasing  to  modem  taste. 
The    figures    are    from 
drawings    by    Klein    of 
Vienna.    —  In   the   W. 
vestibule  and  under  the 
organ  -  loft      are      some 
tomb -stones    belonging 
to  the  Merovingian  and 
Carlovingian        periods. 
The    door  which   leads 
into  the  apse  of  the  N. 
transept,  decorated  with 
very   prominent  reliefs, 
dates  from  the  fbundation  of  the  church.   The  S.  (Hardenrath^s)  chapel  (of 
1466)  contains  pictures  of  the  School  o/Meister  Stephan^  and  fine  stained  glass. 
The  richly  sculptured  organ-loft  (originally  a  screen)  of  1523,  the  font  of 
1594,  and  a  late-Romanesque  portable  altar  are  well  worUiy  of  inspection.  — 
The  fine  Gbtpt,    with  its  nave  and  aisles,  its  quadrangular  chapels,  and 
its  side-chambers ,   corresponds  with  the  form  of  the  choir.    It  contains 
the  tomb  of  Plectrudis,  and  some  ancient  mural  paintings. 

Near  this  church,  to  the  S.  of  a  new  school,  is  the  old  Roman 
arch  of  the  Pfaffenthor,  originally  situated  near  the  W.  portal  of 
the  cathedral ;  the  inscription ,  'C.  0.  A.  A.',  stands  for  *Colonia 
Claudia  Augusta  Agrippinensis'. 

To  the  right,  in  the  vicinity,  is  the  Templars'  Lodge  (PL  28 ; 
D,  5),  Rheingasse  No.  8,  a  handsome  Romanesque  edifice ,  with 
round-arched  windows,  niches,  and  corbie-stepped  gables,  dating 
from  the  12th  or  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  It  was  the  fa- 
mily residence  of  the  ^Overstolzen',  and  was  bought  by  the  town  in 
1836  and  judiciously  restored.  It  is  now  used  as  a  Baptist  chapel. 
The  Prot.  Trinity  Church  (PL  44 ;  C,  D,  5),  in  the  early  Christian 
basilica  style,  designed  by  Stiiler,  was  consecrated  in  1860. 

St.  George  (PL  45 ;  C,  4),  consecrated  in  1067,  was  originally 
a  plain  columnar  basilica,  with  a  crypt  of  the  same  character  (now 
restored).  The  porch  dates  from  1536.  The  objects  of  greatest  in- 
terest are  a  Romanesque  crucifix  of  wood,  remains  of  Romanesque 
*nd  Gothic  neural  paiptings  and  stained  glass,  and  a  tomb  of  1545. 


42    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  St.  PeUr, 

—  Adjacent,  No.  225  Severin-Str.,  is  the  Friedrieh-Wilhelm  Gym- 
nasium, a  handsome  modern  Renaissance  edifice. 

St.  Severin's  (PI.  60 ;  A,  5),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  stands 
upon  the  site  of  a  Christian  Church  hullt  as  early  as  the  4th  cen- 
tury, and  has  been  often  destroyed.  The  present  church  was  con- 
secrated in  1237  and  has  recently  been  thoroughly  restored.  The 
effective  quadrangular  tower  was  erected  in  1393-1411 ;  the  nave 
was  furnished  with  new  vaulting  in  1479 ;  the  baptismal  chapel, 
adorned  with  stained  glass,  dates  from  1505. 

The  sarcophagus  of  St.  Severin  with  a  roof-shaped  lid,  the  excellent 
mountings  of  a  door  of  the  i2th  centnry ,  a  copper-gilt  reading-desk  in 
the  form  of  an  eagle ,  the  Gothic  choir-stalls ,  and  some  old  mural  and 
easel  paintings  will  repay  inspection. 

The  Severins-Thor  (F\.  A,  5)  is  an  interesting  survival  of  the 
old  town- wall  (p.  27). 

In  the  Augustiner-Platz ,  in  front  of  the  Casino  (PI.  4 ;  D,  41 
rises  a  Statue  of  Prinoe  Bismarok,  by  Sehaper,  unveiled  in  1879. 

Farther  to  the  S.,  in  the  Sternengasse  (No.  10,  right  side)  is  a 
handsome  house  in  which  Rubens  is  erroneously  said  to  have  been 
born  (oomp.  p.  54).  The  house  bears  an  inscription  and  a  relief 
above  the  door  in  memory  of  the  illustrious  master ;  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  is  an  inscription  recording  (correctly)  that  Marie  de 
Midieis,  widow  of  Henri  IV.  of  France,  died  here  in  exile  in  1642. 

—  The  house  No.  23  -  25  Sternengasse  is  that  of  the  well-known 
patron  of  art,  Eberhard  v.  Jahack,  who  died  in  1636. 

Following  the  same  line  of  streets,  we  next  reach  the  church  of 
St.  Peter  (PI.  58 ;  entrance  in  the  Sternengasse),  of  the  16th  century. 

Over  the  High  Altar  is  the  *  Crucifixion  of  St.  Peter,  by  Rubens,  re- 
covered from  Paris  in  1814.  This  fine  picture ,  one  of  the  most  vigorous 
works  of  the  master ,  but  repellent  owing  to  its  startling  fidelity  to  na- 
ture, was  painted  by  order  of  the  Jabach  family  in  memory  of  Herr 
Eberhard  Jabach  (see  above).  It  is  shown  by  the  sexton  for  the  some- 
what exorbitant  fee  of  iVsm.  Behind  the  altar  reposes  Johann  Rubens, 
the  father  of  the  painter  (see  p.  54).  —  A  late-Oothic  carved  altar  (Bear- 
ing of  the  Cross,  Crucifixion,  Descent  from  the  Cross),  with  fine  pictures 
on  the  wings ,  is  exhibited  for  an  additional  fee  of  75  pf.  —  The  brazen 
font,  surmounted  by  an  equestrian  figure,  dates  from  1569. 

The  adjoining  Church  of  St.  CsBcilia  fPl.  38;  D,  3,  4),  a  very 
ancient  building,  was  restored  as  early  as  930-41 ,  and  again  in  the 
12th  century,  on  which  occasion  parts  of  the  edifice  of  the  10th  cen- 
tury appear  to  have  been  retained.  It  contains  a  curious  crypt, 
which  is  wrongly  described  as  a  remnant  of  the  oldest  episcopal 
church  built  by  St.  Maternus.  Good  relief  above  the  arch  of  the  door. 

Opposite  is  the  Wolkenburg  (PI.  32 ;  D,  4),  resembling  the  Gur- 
zenich,  the  meeting-place  of  the  Manner- Oesangverein  (p.  25). 

At  the  back  of  the  two  churches  last  described  is  situated  the 
spacious  Hospital  (PI.  3 ;  D,  3),  erected  in  1846.  It  may  be  in- 
spected in  the  afternoon;  visitors,  on  entering  their  names  in  a 
book,  usually  contribute  to  the  funds  (small  fee  to  the  attendant). 

In  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  Nbumabkt  (PL  D,  3),  a  square  planted 


8t,  ParUalton.  COLOGNE.  3.  RouU.     43 

with  trees  (military  parade  at  noon) ,  tbe  largest  in  Cologne ,  rises 
the  *ApOftlei'  Chnicili  (PI.  37 ;  D,  2),  a  remarkaUy  handsome  ba- 
silica with  aisles  and  double  transept.  Over  the  E.  point  of  inter- 
section rises  a  dome  flanked  with  two  slender  corner-towers ,  and 
over  the  W.  intersection  a  square  tower.  The  pictoresque  choir  and 
tbe  arms  of  tbe  E.  transept  end  in  very  spacious  rounded  apses, 
adorned  with  two  series  of  niches  and  a  miniature  gallery  above  them. 
Tbe  church,  begun  about  the  year  1200,  on  the  site  of  an  older 
structure  of  the  11th  cent.,  which  had  been  burned  down,  was  com- 
pleted about  the  middle  of  the  13th  cent,  and  has  just  been  restored. 
When  the  plague  raged  at  Cologne  in  1867,  Bichmodia  von  Lyskirch- 
en,  wife  of  the  knight  Mengis  von  Adocht ,  was  attacked  by  the  malady, 
and  having  fallen  into  a  deathlike  swoon,  was  interred  in  the  Apostles^ 
Church.  Being  awakened  from  her  trance  by  a  thieviah  gravedigger  in 
hiA  attempts  to  abstract  her  ring,  she  returned  to  the  house  of 
her  husband,  who  imagining  he  beheld  an  apparition,  declared  he  would 
sooner  believe  that  his  horses  could  ascend  to  the  loft  of  his  house  than 
that  his  departed  spouse  should  return  in  proprid  ptrsonA.  Scarcely  had 
the  words  escaped  his  lips,  says  the  legend,  than  horses^  hoofs  were  heard 
mounting  the  stairs,  and  their  heads  were  speedily  seen  looking  out  of  a 
window  in  the  upper  story  of  the  house.  The  lady  recovered,  and  lived 
for  many  years  afterwards.  Two  horses'  heads,  affixed  to  the  upper  story 
of  the  house  with  the  tower  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Neumarkt  (TSo.  10),  are 
said  to  have  been  placed  there  in  commemoration  of  the  miraculous 
event,  but  they  more  probably  formed  part  of  the  armorial  bearings  of 
Xicasius  von  Efaquenay,  who  built  the  house. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Apostles'  Church  are  the  ApoBUl-Oymruuiumy  a 
fine  modern  brick  structure,  by  Raschdorff,  and  the  handsome  Besi- 
dence  of  the  Commandant  (PI.  5 ;  D,  2).  —  Outside  the  Hahnen- 
Thor  (PI.  D,  2),  another  relic  of  the  old  wall  (p.  27),  rise  the 
handsome  new  buildings  in  the  finished  parts  of  the  new  Ring- 
strasse  (comp.  p.  27);  the  Hohenstaufenbad  was  designed  by 
Stubben,  and  the  Art-Industrial  School  by  Weyer. 

The  Kanritiuskirche  (PI.  55 ;  C,  2)  in  the  Mauritius  Steinweg, 
built  by  Vincent  Statz,  in  1861-65,  is  a  Gothic  edifice,  with  a 
tower  230  ft.  high ;  the  interior  contains  a  *pietli'  by  Hoffmann,  — 
To  the  W.  of  it  the  Amdt-Strasse  leads  to  the  0ewerhe-8ehule,  or  in- 
dustrial school,  behind  which  is  the  TumhalU  (gymnastic  hall). 

The  Church  of  St.  Pamtaleon  (PI.  57 ;  now  a  military  church, 
and  also  used  by  the  Old  Catholics)  was  constructed  on  the  site  of 
an  older  building  in  964-980.  The  materials  for  this  purpose  are 
said  to  have  been  taken  by  Archbishop  Bruno  (d.  965),  brother  of 
Emperor  Otho  the  G-reat ,  from  the  remains  of  Constantine's  bridge 
fp.  27).  The  present  building,  recently  restored,  dates  from  the 
12-13th  cent.,  and  partly  also  from  the  16th ;  but  the  substructure 
of  the  tower  in  the  centre,  with  its  two-storied  additions,  seems 
to  belong  entirely  to  the  10th  century.  Archbishop  Bruno  and  the 
Empress  Theophano  (d.  999)  are  buried  in  the  church.  There 
are  some  remains  of  Romanesque  mural  paintings  in  a  side  chapel. 

On  the  way  from  the  Apostles'  Church  to  St.  Gereon's  we  pass 
the  Roman  Tower,  mentioned  at  p.  37. 


44     RouU  3. 


COLOGNE. 


St.  Gereon, 


The  Church  of  *8t.  Oereon  (PI.  46 ;  F,  2),  dedicated  to  the  318 
martyrs  of  the  Theban  legion,  with  their  captain  Gereon,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  legend,  perished  here 
in  286  during  the  persecution  of  the 
Christians  under  Diocletian,  Is  an 
edifice  of  very  peculiar  style.  The 
long  Romanesque  choir  is  adjoined 
by  a  decagonal  nave  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  a  quadrangular  vestibule. 
The  original  structure,  circular  in 
form,  traces  of  the  undoubted  Roman 
origin  of  which  are  still  extant,  is 
said  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
empress  Helena,  mother  of  Constau- 
tine  the  Great.  Archbishop  Anno  (d. 
1075)  added  the  choir  with  its  two 
square  towers,  and  the  spacious  crypt. 
In  1219-27  the  round  part  of  the 
church,  having  become  dilapidated, 
was  converted  into  the  present  de- 
cagonal nave,  153  ft.  in  height,  20 
yds.  in  length ,  and  18  in  breadth, 
covered  with  groined  vaulting;  the 
eight  shorter  sides  are  adjoined  by 
large  round  niches.  Other  alterations 
took  place  in  the  14th  and  15th  cent., 
to  which  period  belongs  the  vaulting  of  the  choir  and  of  the  vesti- 
bule. The  disfiguring  additions  of  the  17tli  and  18th  cent,  have 
recently  been  removed.  The  sacristan,  who  is  generally  to  be  found 
in  the  church  (visitors  knock),  lives  at  the  Gereonsdriesch  17,  a 
Tlatz'  planted  with  trees  (1-2  pers.  1  m. ;  for  more,  50  pf.  each). 
The  Vestibule  contains  tombstones  from  the  old  cloisters  (p.  xxv). 
The  *'lNTERioB,  now  that  the  central  altar  added  in  the  i7th  cent,  has 
been  removed,  presents  its  original  singular  appearance.  In  small  chapels 
in  the  recesses  of  the  nave ,  above  which  runs  a  gallery  borne  by  small 
columns,  are  seen  the  stone  sarcophagi  of  the  martyrs,  half  built  into 
the  walls.  Their  skulls  are  arranged  under  gilded  arabesques  along  the 
sides  of  the  Choir,  to  which  nineteen  steps  ascend.  The  handsome  carved 
choir-stalls  date  from  the  15th  century.  The  E.  end  of  the  choir  is  reached 
by  seven  steps  more.  —  The  Sacristy,  in  the  purest  Gothic  style,  dating 
from  1316,  containing  fine  Gothic  stained  glass,  and  the  octagonal  Bap- 
tistery^ with  ancient  mural  paintings,  are  also  worthy  of  note. 

The  Cbtpt  below  the  choir,  with  its  three  aisles  borne  by  eighteen 
columns,  dating  principally,  as  already  mentioned,  from  the  iith  cent., 
contains  an  interesting  specimen  of  the  art  of  that  period :  viz.  a  '^Mo- 
saic Pavement,  the  sections  of  which  represent  scenes  from  the  lives  of 
David  and  Samson  (not  Joshua  and  Joseph  as  sometimes  described),  and 
the  signs  of  the  Zodiac.  It  was,  perhaps,  executed  by  Italian  workmen, 
as  similar  scenes  are  very  common  in  Italian  churches.  The  fragments, 
which  had  got  into  disorder,  were  successfully  restored  and  supplemented 
by  the  painter  Avenarius  in  1869-71. 

About  a  hundred  paces  to  the  E.  of  the  church,  in  theGereons- 


SL  Cunibert.  COLOQNK.  3.  Route.     45 

Strasse ,  which  is  planted  with  trees,  is  situated  the  Archiepiscopal 
Palace  (PI.  6 ;  F,  3),  in  front  of  which  rises  the  Mariensaule ,  a 
monument  designed  by  y.  Statz,  and  erected  in  1858  to  commemorate 
the  promulgation  of  the  new  doctrine  of  the  Immaculate  Conception. 

Farther  N.,  in  the  Klingelputz,  is  the  Arresthaus  (Fl.  G,  3),  a 
prison  constructed  in  1838  in  a  radiating  form. 

8t.lTr8iila(Pl.  61 ;  G,  4),  occupies  the  site  of  a  church  of  the  5th 
cent.,  but  has  been  much  altered.  Interesting  Gothic  portal. 

The  N.  aisle,  near  the  choir  contains  a  monument,  by  Johann  Lenz^ 
erected  in  1668  to  SL  Ursula,  an  Englisli  princeas,  who,  according  to  the 
legend,  when  on  her  return  from  apilgrimage  to  Borne,  was  barbarously 
murdered  at  Cologne  with  her  11,000  virgin  attendants.  The  figure  is  in 
alabaster,  with  a  dove  at  the  feet.  The  bones  of  these  virgin  martyrs 
are  preserved  in  cases,  placed  round  the  church.  The  legend  is  also  il- 
lustrated  by  a  series  of  old  paintings,  freouently  retouched ,  on  the  wall 
beginning  to  the  right  of  the  entrance.  Ten  old  pictures  of  the  Apos- 
tles, to  the  left  of  the  S.  entrance ,  are  painted  on  slabs  of  slate ,  one  of 
them  bearing  the  date  1224.  Under  the  organ ,  by  the  pillar  to  the  left, 
is  a  well-executed  old  Gothic  sculpture ,  representing  the  bearing  of  the 
Cross.  The  sarcophagus  of  a  child  belonging  to  the  family  of  the  Fran- 
conian  major-domo's  is  also  worth  inspection.  —  The  Goldenb  Kammeb,  or 
treasury  (admission  1  Vs  m.,  for  1"3  persons)  contains  the  fine  late-Romanesque 
Reliquary  of  St.  Ursula ,  several  other  reliquaries  of  the  Gothic  period, 
and  a  carved  rock-crystal  chessman  of  the  Carlovingian  period. 

The  Jesuitt*  Church  (PI.  47;  F,  4),  erected  in  1618-29,  is  a 
striking  example  of  the  Renaissance  style ,  partaking  of  a  Gothic 
character,  peculiar  to  this  order.  The  pulpit  and  high-altar  are  over- 
laden with  decoration.  The  bells  were  cast  with  the  metal  of  cannons 
taken  by  Tilly  at  Magdeburg,  and  presented  by  him  to  the  church. 

St.  Andreas  (PI.  36 ;  F,  4),  with  Romanesque  nave  of  1220  and  a 
raised  Gothic  choir  of  1414,  contains  a  fine  brass -gilt  reliquary 
(the  ^Reliquary  of  the  Maccabees*),  of  late-Gothic  workmanship, 
with  reliefs.  —  The  neighbouring  street  ^Vnter  Sachsenhausen' 
contains  numerous  handsome  buildings,  including  several  banks. 

On  the  Rhine,  near  theN.  end  of  the  town,  is  the  Church  of  ♦St. 
Cnnibert  (PI.  40 ;  G,  5),  an  excellent  example  of  the  transition- 
style,  consecrated  by  Archb.  Conrad  in  1247,  the  year  before  he  laid 
the  foundation  of  the  cathedral,  and  lately  restored.  It  is  a  vaulted 
basilica  with  two  transepts  and  three  towers.  The  principal  tower, 
over  the  W.  transept,  fell  in  1830,  but  has  also  been  restored. 

The  iNTEBiOB  contains  fine  *  Stained  Glass  (in  the  choir)  of  the 
13th  century,  remains  of  good  Romanesque  mural  paintings ,  pictures  of 
the  Cologne  school,  and  sculptures  of  the  14th  and  16th  centuries  (relief 
of  the  Crucifixion).  The  choir  has  lately  been  decorated  with  encaustic 
^Hural  Paintings  by  Welter.    Fine  modern  organ. 

Opposite  is  the  Marien-Hoipital  for  incurables  (PL  15). 

Near  the  Bayenthnrm  (Pi.  A,  6) ,  a  square  pinnacled  tower  of 
the  13-14th  cent.,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  is  the  SicherheiU- 
hafen  (*8afety-harbour',  where  vessels  take  refuge  in  winter  from 
the  dangers  of  the  floating  ice),  which  was  formed  in  1848  by  con- 
necting the  Rheinau,  then  an  island,  with  the  mainland.  Part  of 
the  Rheinau  is  now  laid  out  as  a  promenade.    The  warehouses  of 


46     RouU  3.  COLOGNE. 

the  Freihafen  (PI.  £,  5),  or  free-harbour  for  goods  in  bond,  im- 
mediately below  the  bridge-of-boats,  were  erected  in  1838  in  the 
style  of  the  Gurzenich.  The  traveller  intending  to  cross  the  Iron 
Bridge  (p.  34)  approaches  it  by  the  Domthor  to  the  N. 

Issuing  by  the  medi!BYa\  Eigelatein-Thor  (PI.  H,  4)  and  then 
turning  to  the  right,  or  passing  the  church  of  St.  Cunibert  (see 
above),  where  there  is  a  pier  of  the  steamboats  noticed  on  p.  26,  we 
reach  the  N.  end  of  the  town.  Here  we  cross  the  entrance  to  the  Old 
Sicherheiishafen^  and  skirting  a  number  of  gardens  (Kaiser-Garten, 
see  p.  25)  and  villas,  arrive  at  the  ^Zoological  Garden  (admission, 
see  p.  25).  A  military  band  generally  plays  here  thrice  a  week 
(p.  25).  Grounds  well  laid  out,  fine  collection  of  animals.  *Refresh- 
ment-room.  —  Adjacent  is  the  *Botanical  Garden  of  the  'Flora 
Co.^  (adm.,  see  p.  25 ;  ^Restaurant),  with  a  handsome  conservatory 
(magnificent  collection  of  variegated  leaved  plants)  and  an  Aqua- 
rium (Director,  Herr  NiepraschU).  The  Belvedere  commands  a  good 
survey  of  Cologne  and  the  Seven  Mts.  —  The  belvedere  of  Bruck- 
mann's  Restaurant ,  between  the  Zoological  and  Flora  gardens,  is 
another  good  point  of  view. 

The  extensive  Cemetery,  on  the  road  to  Aix-la-Ghapelle,  1/2  ^'  from  the 
Hahnen-Thor  (cab  for  1-4  pers.  2  m.),  contains  several  fine  monuments, 
including  those  of  Prof.  Wallraf  and  Herr  Richartz  (p.  34),  memorial  mon- 
uments of  the  wars  of  1866  and  1870-1871.  and  a  monument  to  the  memory 
of  French  prisoners  who  died  here.  —  About  8  M.  W.  of  Cologne,  at  the 
village  of  Weiden,  is  an  interesting  vaulted  Roman  tomb,  with  a  sarco- 
phagus, niches,  and  busts.     

On  the  right  bank  of  ihe  Rhine,  opposite  Cologne,  lies  Dentz 
(hotel,  seep.  24;  railway-stations,  see  p.  24),  the  tete-de-pont 
of  Cologne ,  and  the  Roman  Castellum  Divitense.  It  existed  as  a 
fortress  down  to  1114,  after  which  it  was  repeatedly  destroyed,  as  a 
settlement  here  would  have  been  inconsistent  with  the  privileges  of 
Cologne.  Since  1816  Deutz  has  been  fortified  by  the  Prussians  in 
connection  with  Cologne.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church  contains  the 
altar- tomb  of  St.  Heribert,  of  the  year  1147.  The  Protestant  Jo- 
hanniakirche  was  consecrated  in  1861. 

4.   From  Cologne  to  Neuss  (Dtmeldorf) ,  Crefeld, 
and  Cleve. 

741/2  M.  Railway  to  aeve  in  21/4-874  hrs.  (fares  9  m.  60,  7  m.  20,  4  m. 
80  pf.)i  to  Dilsseldor/  in  i-V/9  hr.  (fares  3  m.  70,  2  m.  80,  1  m.  90  pf.). 

Cologne,  see  R.  3.  —  2  M.  Nippes,  —  5  M.  Longerich. 

91/2  M.  Worringen,  the  Buruncum  of  the  Romans,  and  one  of 
their  cavalry-stations.  In  a  battle  fought  here  in  1288  between  the 
citizens  of  Cologne  and  the  Brabanters  under  the  Duke  of  Berg  on 
one  side,  and  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  and  the  Duke  of  Guelders 
on  the  other ,  the  struggle  between  the  burghers  and  their  arch- 
bishop was  decided  in  favour  of  the  former. 


OREFELD.  4.  BouU,     47 

13  m.  Dormayen ,  the  Roman  Dumomagut.  About  272  ^*  to 
the  E.,  on  the  Rhine,  lies  Zotm,  the  Roman  Sontiuniy  a  small  town 
with  numerous  towers,  which  once  belonged  to  Cologne.  The  Pre- 
monstratensian  abbey  of  KnechtaUden ,  with  a  beautiful  Roman- 
esque church  begun  in  1138,  is  situated  3  M.  to  the  W. 

I83/4  M.  Norf,  To  the  right,  farther  on,  is  seen  the  railway- 
bridge  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  line  in  the  distance  (p.  51). 

2272  M*  ir«uM  (Rheiniaeher  Hof),  often  mentioned  as  a  Roman 
fortress  in  the  annals  of  the  BataTian  war ,  under  the  name  Nove- 
sium,  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Germany.  Pop.  20,077.  In  1774 
it  was  in  vain  besieged  by  Charles  the  Bold  of  Burgundy  for  forty- 
eight  weeks,  and  in  1586  was  conquered  and  treated  with  great  sever- 
ity by  Alexander  Famese.  It  onoe  lay  on  the  Rhine,  from  which  it 
is  now  172^-  distant.  The  *Quirinu8kireke,  an  interesting  building 
in  the  transition-style,  begun  in  1209  by  the  master  Wolbexo,  is  a 
basilica  with  nave  and  aisles,  and  with  towers  over  the  transept  and 
over  the  W.  side,  which  externally  forms  a  second  transept.  Above 
the  aisles  ran  galleries,  and  some  of  the  windows  are  peculiarly 
shaped.  The  niches  of  the  W,  portal  are  filled  with  statues  of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul  by  Bayerle  of  Dusseldorf.  The  E.  tower,  which 
was  re-erected  after  its  destruction  by  lightning  in  1741,  is  crowned 
with  a  Statue  of  St.  Quirinua^  who  was  probably  a  Roman  soldier. 
The  Rathhaus  contains  a  considerable  collection  of  Roman  Antiqui- 
ties and  a  large  hall,  adorned  with  a  series  of  historical  paintings 
by  Janssen.  The  new  Railway  Station  Buildings  ^  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  have  also  a  handsome  interior. 

From  Keuss  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  DUtseldorf,  see  R.  Sj  to  Neersen- 
Neuwerh  and  Rheydt,  see  p.  50}  to  DUren^  see  p.  l4. 

A  branch  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  railway  (change  carriages  at  Keuss) 
leads  by  Heerdt  to  (^reatsel^  on  the  Rhine,  opposite  Dusseldorf,  and 
connected  with  it  by  a  bridge-of-boats.    DUsseldor/f  see  p.  18. 

28  M.  Oaterath,  —  32^/2  M.  Oppum,  the  junction  for  the  line 
to  Easen  and  Dortmund^ 

The  Essen  and  Dortmund  railway  crosses  the  Rhine  at  (6  M.)  Ehein- 
TutuseUf  hy  a  bridge,  1040  yds.  long,  spanning  the  river  in  four  handsome 
arches.  From  (SVz  M.)  Hochfeld  a  hranch  line  diverges  to  Duisburg  (p.  18). 
—  13  H.  Speldor/;  16  H.  Mulheim  an  der  Ruhr  (p.  52);  21  M.  Essen.  Thence 
past  several  unimportant  stations  to  (44  M.)  Dortmund. 

34  M.  Crefeld.  —  Hotels.  *Hkrfs;  ^Beltz;  wilder  Hann;  Hilgbbt; 
all  good.  —  GoMPKBTZ;  Qbunek  Wald;  GeaMANiA,  at  the  station;  these 
unpretending.  — .  Enzler^s  Restauranty  Stephan-Str.  —  Wikb  at  Zahner'Sy 
Kraker's.  —  Plbasube  Bbbobts  :  StctdthalU^  with  concert-room  and  garden  ; 
ThUrgartMy  with  garden  (military  concerts).     • 

Crefeld,  with  73,872  inhab.  (13,000  in  1830;  1/4  Protestant), 
is  the  seat  of  the  chief  silk  and  velvet  manufactories  in  Germany, 
which  employ  about  29,000  looms  and  produce  fabrics  of  an  annual 
value  of  about  3,850,000i.,  vying  in  excellence  with  those  of  Lyons, 
and  largely  exported  to  England,  America,  and  other  foreign 
countries.  The  R&yal  Textile  Academy,  opened  in  1883,  is  attended 
by  upwards  of  250  scholars.    The  building  contains  an  interesting 


48     Route  4.  XANTEN. 

Textile  Museum  (open  Sun.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.  10-1),  and  the  rooms 
are  decorated  with  frescoes  by  Baur  referring  to  the  silk-lndnstry. 
Orefeld  presents  the  appearance  of  a  prosperous  modern  town,  with 
regalar  streets,  and  several  new  Churches.  In  the  Rathhaus  are  good 
frescoes  (the  battle  of  Armlnlus)  by  Janssen  of  Dusseldorf.  Mem- 
orial of  the  Franco-German  war  of  1870-1871,  by  Walger.  There 
are  also  monuments  in  honour  of  Cornelius  de  Greiff,  the  philan- 
thropist, and  0.  Wllhelm,  composer  of  the  *Wacht  am  Rhein*.  The 
art-industrial  collection  of  the  Museum  Verein,  including  a  number 
of  pictures,  deserves  a  visit.  Crefeld  is  first  mentioned  by  name  in 
a  document  of  1166  and  obtained  municipal  privileges  in  1373.  On 
the  extinction  of  the  Counts  of  Moers  in  1600  it  came  into  the  hands 
of  the  Princes  of  Nassau  and  Orange,  under  whom  the  foundation  of 
the  town's  prosperity  was  laid  by  the  protection  extended  to  Pro- 
testants and  Anabaptists  banished  from  the  Duchies  of  Jillich  and 
Berg.  In  1702  Crefeld  fell  by  inheritance  to  the  crown  of  Prussia, 
to  which  it  has  since  belonged  with  the  exception  of  20  years  (1794- 
1814)  when  it  was  subject  to  France. 

In  1763  Prince  Ferdinand  of  Brunswick,  the  general  of  Frederick  the 
Great,  defeated  the  French  under  Count  Clermont  in  the  vicinity. 

Crefeld  is  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  to  Ruhrort 
(R.  6),  and  of  local  lines  to  Viersen,  Sitchteln,  etc. 

41  M.  Kempen  (Herriger),  an  ancient  town  with  a  well-preserv- 
ed Romanesque  church,  the  supposed  birthplace  of  Thomas  a  Kempis 
(d.  1471).  The  fertile  district  assumes  a  Dutch  character.  46  M. 
Aldekerki  ^81/2  M.  Nieukerk.  —  53  M.  Geldem  (*H6t.  Holttem), 
once  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Guelders,  has  belonged  to  Prussia 
since  1713.  Our  line  here  Intersects  the  railway  from  Holland 
(VenlOj  Straelen)  to  Bremen  and  Hamburg. 

The  train  crosses  the  Niers.  58i/o  M.  Kevelaer  (frequented  by 
pilgrims);  62  M.  Weeze. 

66 Y2  M.  Oooh,  an  Important  place  in  the  middle  ages,  also  a 
station  on  the  line  from  Boxtel  to  \ye8el,  traversed  by  the  express 
trains  from  Berlin  to  Flushing  (Berlin  to  London  in  24  hrs.). 

Fbom  Goch  to  Wesel,  24  M.,  railway  in  V/a-V/2  hr.  (fares  4  m., 
3  m.,  2  m.).  —  5  M.   Uedem. 

1272  H.  Zanten  (H&velmanni  Sotel)^  a  town  of  great  antiquity,  with 
3700  inhab.,  the  Castra  Vetera  of  the  Romans,  founded  by  Augustus  after  the 
defeat  of  Lollius  (B.C.  18),  whose  camp  was  situated  on  the  Furstenberg, 
near  Birten,  V2  ^*  ^  ^be  S.  The  ^Nibelungenlied'  mentions  Xanten  as 
the  birthplace  of  Siegfried  the  dragon-slayer  (p.  82).  The/^Colleffiate  Church 
of  St.  Victor  J  erected  in  1213-1622,  is  a  gem  of  Gothic  architecture,  and 
is  adorned  with  paintings  by  J.  v.  Calcar,  De  Bruyn,  and  other  artists. 
The  choir,  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  elegant  bronze  screen,  is 
worthy  of  notice.  The  cloisters  contain  some  interesting  tombstones.  One 
of  the  walls  of  an  ancient  building,  apparently  about  SO  ft.  square,  was 
excavated  to  the  N.  of  Xanten  in  1879,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  it  is  of 
Roman  or  of  Frankish  origin. 

Beyond  (I8V2  M.)  BUderieh^  also  a  station  on  the  Wesel  and  Venlo  line 
(p.  18),  the  train  crosses  the  Rhine,  and  reaches  (24  H.)  Wesel  (p.  17). 

69  M.  Pfalzdorf,  a  large  village,  with  2666  inhab.,  founded 
by  emigrants  from  the  Palatinate  (Pfalz)  in  1741. 


OLEYE.  4.  Boutt,    49 

li\l^}/L,  Cl6T«.  —  Hotels.  *MATirALD,  on  the  8.  tide  of  the  hill,  with 
large  garden  s  ^Bad-Hotel  Sl  Hotel  Sttbum,  belonging  to  a  company,  with 
gardens  and  baths,  to  the  W.  of  and  outside  the  town,  in  the  Thiergarten, 
^ pension^  5  m.,  B.  from  2  m.;  *Bobbbrs,  also  in  the  Thiergarten ;  ^Pkirzkn- 
HOF  (see  below),  in  a  large  park,  with  a  fine  Tiew,  'Uotbl  Loook,  op- 
posite the  post-office ;  ^Hotbl  Holtsbm,  near  the  palace.  —  Beer :  DnUtcTier 
Kaiter;  Catpari. 

Visitors*  Tax,  for  a  stay  of  more  than  a  week,  6  m. ;  two  pers.  8  m. ; 
each  additional  member  of  a  family  1  m. 

Cltvt^  Dutch  KUef,  pop.  10,173,  once  the  oapital  of  the  duohy  of 
that  name ,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  wooded  hill,  41/2  M.  W.  of 
Emmerich,  and  is  much  frequented  by  Dutch  families  in  summer. 
The  chalybeate  spring  is  an  additional  attraction.  The  Gothic  *8tifU' 
kirche^  an  imposing  brick  edifice,  erected  in  1345,  contains  monu- 
ments of  Counts  and  Dukes  of  Cleve  (the  finest  that  of  Adolph  YI., 
d.  1894),  and  one  of  Margaretha  von  Berg  (d.  1425). 

The  legend  of  the  ^Knight  of  the  Swan',  made  so  widely  known 
by  Wagner's  opera  of  'Lohengrin',  is  localised  at  Cleve,  where  an 
appropriate  monument  has  been  erected  in  the  small  market-place. 
The  RaiMiaus  contains  a  few  antiquities.  —  A  Statue  of  the  Elector 
John  Sigismund  (d.  1619)  by  Bayerle,  erected  on  the  road  to  the 
palace  in  1859,  is  a  memorial  of  the  annexation  of  the  district  to 
the  Electorate  of  Brandenburg  in  1609. 

On  a  picturesque  eminence  in  the  town  rises  the  Palace  of  the 
former  dnkes,  generally  called  the  Schwanenburg  (in  the  court- 
yard a  Raman  Altar  found  in  the  neighbourhood),  with  the  lofty 
*8chwanenthurm  J  erected  by  Adolph  I.  in  1439,  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  tower  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Cssar.  The  Schwa- 
nenthurm  and  the  CZever-Berj^,  ^2^-  ^^^^^^y  command  the  most 
beautiful  views  on  the  Lower  Rhine.  Near  the  Schwanenburg  rises 
the  Prm%enhof,  erected  in  1663  by  Maurice  of  Orange,  Governor 
of  Cleve  (appointed  by  the  Elector  of  Brandenburg) ,  and  now  a 
hotel  and  pension.  To  the  S.  extends  a  range  of  hills,  on  which  lies 
*Berg  und  ThaV  (•Restaurant),  with  the  grave  of  Prince  Maurice 
(d.  1679).  Towards  the  W.  lie  the  hills  known  as  the  Thiergarten, 
laid  out  with  pleasant  park-like  grounds,  which  adjoin  the  road  and 
railway  to  Nymwegen.  The  Roman  camp  CoioniaTfajana,  establish- 
ed by  the  Emp.  Trajan,  lay  near  Cleve.  About  3  M.  to  the  N.  is  a 
monument  erected  by  Napoleon  in  1811  to  the  memory  of  Johanna 
Sebus,  a  maiden  whose  heroism  has  been  celebrated  by  Goethe. 

Beyond  Cleve  the  Bhenish  Railway  pursues  its  K.  direction ,  crosses 
the  Bhine  by  means  of  a  steam -ferry  near  stat  Elten^  and  at  stat. 
Zevenaar  unites  with  the  Dutch  line  to  Amsterdam  and  Botterdam  (B.  2)  *, 
see  also  Baedeker^t  Belgium  and  Holland. 

To  Nynmegen  by  railway  vi&  Oroethetk  and  Oranemburg  in  40  min. ; 
comp.  Baedeker^t  Belgium  and  Bolltmd. 

From  Cleve  diligence  once  daily  in  IV4  hr.  to  (TVs  ^0  Caloar,  the 
Gothic  church  of  which,  of  the  i4th  cent.,  contains  a  remarkably  fine  al- 
tar-piece by  Johann  of  Calcar,  and  below  it  some  admirably-carved  wood- 
work. Calcar  was  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  Oeneral  Seyd- 
lita  (d.  1773),  the  conqueror  at  Bossbach,  a  handsome  monumeut  to  whom 
adorns  the  market-place. 

Baedekeb's  Bhine.    10th  Edit.  4 


50 

5.  From  Aiz-la-Chapalla  by  Gladbach  to  DuMoldorf. 

Comp»  Map,  p.  18. 

53  M .  Railway  to  DiiMeldorf  in  %^  hn.  (fares  7  m.  50,  5  m.  60,  3  m. 
80  pf. ;  expreM  8  m.  80,  6  m.  60,  4  m.  60  pf.). 

This  railway  (^Bergisch-Markisch  Co.)  has  two  stations  at  Aix- 
la-Chapelle,  one  at  the  Marach%er*Thory  the  other  at  the  Templerhend 
(comp.  p.  4).  At  (31/2 M.)  Stat.  BkhUrich  the  MaatfichtLi'M  diverges 
to  the  left.  The  tall  chimneys  near  (5V2M.)  KohUchtid  belong  to 
coal-mines.  The  train  now  descends  into  the  pleasing  and  partly 
wooded  valley  of  the  Wutm. 

At  (8  M.)  Heriogenrath  (Zum  Wurmthal) ,  French  Roldw ,  a 
small  town  with  an  ancient  castle ,  the  baildings  of  the  suppressed 
Abbey  of  KloBterraih  (now  a  school)  look  down  from  a  height  on 
the  left.  The  Church  was  consecrated  in  1209,  and  its  crypt  in  1108. 

On  the  left  near  (I2Y2M.)  PaUnberg,  rise  the  chateaux  of  Rim- 
burg  and  Zvaeibruggtny  and  at  (15  M.)  QtiUnkirchtn  that  of  Trips* 
The  train  then  traverses  the  undulating  Duchy  of  Julich ,  and  be- 
tween (20  M.)  Lindem  and  (241/2  M.)  Baal  crosses  the  valley  of  the 
£oer(p.  14).  — ^l^j^^,  Erkelenz,  an  old  town  with  the  picturesque 
ruins  of  a  castle  destroyed  in  1674.  The  handsome  church  of  the 
14th  cent,  has  recently  been  famished  with  an  iron  spire  270  ft. 
high.  —  335/4  M.  Wicktath,  with  a  government  stud. 

351/2  M.  Bheydt  (Krusemaim ;  Jdbge$),  with  22,655  inhabitants, 
is  the  junction  of  the  Gladbach-Roermond-Antwerp  line  (p.  51)  and 
of  the  Left-Rhenish  line  to  Oladbach,  Ncersen-Neuwerhj  and  Neuaa 
(p.  47;  17M.  inlV4hr.). 

About  6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Bheydt  is  situated  SchloM  Bvok,  the  chsLteau 
of  Prince  Salm-ReiiTerscheid-Dyck,  with  beautiful  grounds ,  and  a  garden 
which  boasts  of  the  most  complete  collection  of  cacti  in  Europe.  (Good 
inn,  opposite  the  gate  of  the  chateau.)  —  ScMoss  LUdbtrg^  3  M.  to  the  !K. 
of  Dyck,  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

38  M.  Oladbach  (*Herf8,  R.  &  B.  3m.;  Kothen;  *Len88en» 
Be$taiurant)  is  a  rising  manufacturing  town  of  44,228  inhab.,  and 
one  of  the  centres  of  the  Rhenish  cotton,  woollen,  iron,  and  engine- 
making  industries.  To  distinguish  it  from  another  place  of  the  same 
name  (p*  23)  it  is  termed  Munchen-Gladbaehy  the  epithet  M&nchen 
(i.e.  'Monchen'  or  monks)  being  derived  from  a  Benedictine  abbey, 
founded  in  793  and  suppressed  in  1802,  to  which  the  town  owes  its 
origin.  Admission  to  any  of  the  numerous  factories  or  dye-works  is 
usually  granted  by  the  owner  on  application.  The  imposing  brick 
edifice  to  the  right  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  station  is  a  spinning 
and  weaving  factory.  Several  important  insurance  societies  have 
their  headquarters  here.  The  early-Gothic  choir  of  the  Munatcr- 
kirehCy  dating  from  the  second  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  is  supposed 
to  have  been  built  by  Meister  Gerard  (p.  29);  the  treasury  contains 
a  fine  late-Gothic  portable  altar  and  other  interesting  objects.  The 
terrace  of  the  Erholung  Club  (introduction  by  a  member  necessary), 
situated  in  a  shady  park,  and  the  old  Abbey  aiford  commanding 


UERDINGEN.  6'.  BouU.    5t 

views  of  theGladbach  manafaoturing  district  (Tabrikbezirk'l,  which 
inclades  the  towns  of  GUdbaoh,  Bheydt,  Yiersen,  Odenkirchen,  Dili- 
ken,  andSiichteln,  and  presents  a  scene  of  great  indastrial  activity. 

Oladbach  ia  the  junction  of  the  Crefeld  and  Ruhrort  line  (see  R.  6). 
Gladbach  is  aUo  on  the  Rheydt  &  Keuss  Railway  (Left  Rhenish  Line,  see 
above),  with  two  stations,  Oladhaeh-B(fkel  and  Oladbach- Speik. 

From  Oladbach  to  Antwkbp,  99  M.,  railway  in  4  hours,  see  BtudekerU 
Belgium  and  BoUand. 

Branch-line  from  Gladbach  to  Jiilich,  £schweiler,and  Stolberg,  see  p.  13. 

The  line  now  turns  towards  the  £.,  traverses  a  flat,  arable,  and 
partly-wooded  tract,  and  leads  to  (41  M.")  Korschenbroich,  (43  M.) 
KUinenhroich  and  (43V2  ^0  Heust  (p.  47) ,  the  junction  of  the 
Aix-la-Chapelle-Dusseldorf ,  Cologne-Crefeld ,  and  Diiren-Neuss 
lines.  Soon  after  leaving  the  station ,  the  train  crosses  the  Rhine 
by  an  iron  bridge  completed  in  1873  (see  plan  of  Diisseldorf).  To 
the  left  fine  view  of  (53  M.)  Duaseldorf  (j^.  18). 

6.  From  Gladbach  to  Crefeld,  Enhrort,  and  Essen. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  18. 

42  M.  Railway  in  2Vahrs.  (fares  5  m.  40,  4  m.  10,  2  m.  70  pf.). 

Munchen-Qladhach^  see  p.  50.  —  3  M.  Htltnabrunn ;  51/2  M. 
Yiersen  (Bours;  Dahlhausen ;  Hourseh),  a  town  with  22,234  in- 
hab.  and  extensive  manufactories  of  silks  and  velvet  ribbons.  The 
KaisermtSUe,  with  a  park  and  restaurant,  is  a  favourite  place  of 
recreation. 

A  line  diverges  hence  to  Yanlo,  the  junction  of  the  Dutch  railways  to 
Flushing  and  Rotterdam^  to  the  W.,  and  to  the  S.  to  MattricM.  See 
Baedeker^t  Belgium  and  Holland. 

Viersen  is  also  connected  by  a  short  branch-line  with  Keenen-Neu- 
uerk  on  the  Rheydt-Kenss  railway  (see  R.  6). 

A  local  railway,  with  numerous  branches,  runs  from  Viebsen  to 
Cbefeld  and  M6bs.  At  (IV2  M.)  SUchteln  a  branch  line  diverges  via 
S&chtelnvorst  (branch  to  Grefrath\  Sempen  (p.  48),  and  other  unimportant 
stations  to  (15V2  M.)  the  N.  station  of  Crefeld.  The  main  line  proceeds 
from  Suehteln,  via  Vorst  and  St.  Tdnnis  to  (IOV2  M.)  the  8.  station  and 
(I2V2  M.)  the  K.  station  of  Ore/eld  (see  below).  Thence  the  line  continues 
via  HUls,  Niep^  and  Capellen  to  (24  M.)  KSrs  (Hot.  Oeerkens ;  Kdniglicher 
Hof),  an  ancient  town  with  4504  inhab.,  formerly  the  capital  of  an  im- 
portant medieeval  dominion,  which  passed  to  Prussia  in  1702.  Branch 
line  to  (3V«  M.)  Homberg  (see  below). 

The  Crefeld  line  next  crosses  the  Nord-Canal ,  begun  by  Na* 
poleon,  but  never  completed.    9  M.  Anrath,   14  M.  Crefeld  (p.  47). 

I872  M.  Uerdingen  (*Kellner)y  a  commercial  town  on  the  Rhine, 
with  several  extensive  liqueur  and  sugar  manufactories,  is  the  junc- 
tion of  lines  to  Oppuniy  Linnj  Hochfeldj  Essen^  etc.  (comp.  p.  47). 
—  23  M.  Trompet. 

26  M.  Hombergi  whence  travellers  are  conveyed  by  steamboat 
in  8  min.  to  Ruhrorty  and  landed  at  the  station  of  the  Cologne-Min- 
den,  or  that  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  railway.  The  towers  (128  ft. 
high)  at  the  Homberg  and  Ruhrort  harbours  are  used  in  placing 
laden  trucks  on  the  steam-ferry  which  here  crosses  tho  Rhine. 

4* 


52    BouU7.  ELBERFELD. 

27  M.  Bvlirort  (*CUve  HoUH;  Preussiseher  Hof;  Rheinisehtr 
Hof),  with  9840  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of  the£«Ar, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  trading  towns  in  the  district.  Its 
extensive  harbour,  4  M.  in  length,  is  connected  by  branch-lines 
with  the  main  railways.  The  export  of  coals  from  Ruhrort  amounts 
to  about  IY2  ii^iUion  tons  annually,  for  the  transport  of  which  it 
possesses  a  number  of  powerful  tug-steamers  and  400  barges,  some 
of  them  upwards  of  500  tons  burden.  Half  of  the  coal  exported  goes 
to  the  towns  on  the  Upper  Rhine,  and  as  far  as  Strassburg,  and  the 
other  half  to  Holland.  The  Quays  of  Ruhrort  are  of  considerable  ex- 
tent. A  granite  obelisk  on  the  quay  is  to  the  memory  of  Ludwig 
von  Vincke  (d.  1844),  the  president  of  the  province,  who  materially 
improved  the  navigation  of  the  Ruhr.  Opposite  the  railway-station 
are  the  blast  and  puddllng-furnaces  of  the  Phoenix  Co,  —  Branch- 
lines  to  (51/2  M.)  Oberhausen  and  (7  M.)  Sterhrade  (p.  18). 

29  m.  Meiderichy  a  place  with  16,106  inhab.,  important  iron- 
works, and  a  monument  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71. 

35  M.  Mulheim  an  der  Ruhr  (Hotel  Middendorf),  a  prettily 
situated  town  with  24,520  inhab.  —  351/2  M.  Miilheim-Epprng- 
hofen,  the  second  station  of  Mulheim. 

42  M.  Essenj  see  Baedeker's  Northern  Qermany, 

7.  From  Cologne  to  Elberfeld  and  Hagen. 

431/3  M.  Rail  WAT  ('Bergisch-Harkisch^),  express  in  ls/4,  ordinary  trains 
in  21/2  hrs. ;  fares  6  m.  60,  4  m.  20,  2  m.  80  pf. 

Cologne^  see  p.  24.  The  terminus  of  the  Berglsch-Markisch 
railway  is  at  Deut%^  outside  the  fortifications  to  the  N.  of  the  town, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine  (20  min.  from  the  central  station 
at  Cologne ;  omnibus,  see  p.  24). 

2  M.  MnllLeim  am  Bhein,  see  p.  23;  7  M.  SchUbusch;  91/2  M. 
Opladen;  121/2  M.  LeichLingen;  16  M.  Ohligs-Wald  [branch-line 
in  V4  hr.  to  Solingen  (Bairischer  Hof),  an  Important  manufacturing 
place]  ;  20  M.  Haan,  the  junction  of  the  Dusseldorf-Elberfeld  line ; 
23  M.  Vohwirikel^  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Steele^  an  important 
coal-railway ;  25  M.  Sonnbom.   The  train  now  crosses  the  Wupper, 

26V2  M.  Elberfeld-Steinbeck,  (27  M.)  Elberfeld,  (28  M.)  Vnter- 
Barmen,  and  (29^2  M.)  Barmen,  now  together  forming  a  single 
large  manufacturing  town,  which  fills  the  bottom  and  extends  up 
the  sides  of  the  valley,  and  is  intersected  by  the  railway,  the  high- 
road with  a  tramway-line,  and  the  Wupper. 

Hotels  in  Elberfeld.  HdTSL  Bloeh  zdh  Weidbnuop  (PI.  a ;  F,  4) ; 
Victoria  (PI.  d ;  F,  4) ;  Post  (PI.  e :  E,  3),  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2  m.,  well  spoken  of  5 
Hainzeb  Hop  (PI.  c;E,3);  Bheinischbr  Hop  (PI.  f^  E,4);  ZwsiBRdcKBs 
Hop  (PI.  f)  E,  4).  —  Hotels  in  Barmen.  *Vooelbr  (PI.  a^  D,  3)^  Pbimz 
WiLHELH  von  Predbsen;  Evangklisches  Vereinshads,  near  the  station; 
ZuR  Ppalz  (PI.  b ;  E,  3),  SghGtzemhaus  (PI.  c ;  D,  3),  in  the  town. 

Sestanrants  at  Elberfeld.  JBiermanny  Alter  Harkt;  WUlenuen,  Konig- 
Str.,  with  a  garden;  Zaarff,  Kirch-Str. ;  Himmelmann^  Schwanen-Str.  (wine). 
—  At  Barmen.  Salvator  Keller y  next  door  to  the  Hdtel  Vogeler;  Zur  P/alz, 


SGHWELM.  7.B0UU.    63 

The  sister  towns  of  EXberfeld  and  Barmen^  which  haTe  risen  to 
importance  since  the  middle  of  last  century,  now  contain  209,200 
inhab.  (Elherfeld,  106,300;  Barmen,  102,900),  and  rank  among  the 
richest  manufacturing  towns  on  the  continent.  The  chief  products 
of  their  Tery  numerous  and  extensive  factories  are  cotton,  calico, 
silk,  ribbons,  Turkey-red  dyed  goods,  soap,  candles,  and  chemi- 
cals. Since  the  introduction  ol  power-looms  the  value  of  the  cotton 
and  silk  manufactures  has  risen  to  130  million  marks  annually. 
The  old  parts  af  the  towns  are  irregular  and  confined,  but  the 
modern  portions  contain  many  fine  private  buildings.  The  finest 
part  of  Elberfeld  is  the  quarter  to  the  S.W.,  near  the  Niitzehberg 
(PI.  A,  5),  a  hill  with  a  belvedere  commanding  an  extensive  view. 
The  Konig-Strasse  (Pl.B,  C,  D,  5,  4),  Briller-Str.  (PI.  B,  4,  3),  and 
Sadowa-Str.  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  all  in  this  neighbourhood,  are  three  of  the 
handsomest  streets  in  the  town.  The  principal  public  edifices  are : 
the  Rathhaus  (Pi.  16);  the  Reformirte  Kirche  (PI.  10),  designed  by 
Zwirner ;  the  Lutheran  Church ;  the  Landgeriehtagebdude  (PI.  12), 
or  courts  of  law,  with  a  picture  of  the  Last  Judgment  in  the  princi- 
pal court  by  Baur;  the  large  Hospital  (PI.  C,  6);  the  Head  Offlcen 
of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  RaUway  (PI.  22) ;  the  Neviandt-Stiftj  or 
alms-house ;  and  the  Sta/ughter-House,  the  last  two  on  the  Arren- 
herg.  In  the  Kdnigsplatz  (PI.  D,  4)  is  a  War  Monument  commem- 
oratiug  the  campaigns  of  1870-71,  by  Albermann.  The  Hardt 
(PI.  G,  3),  where  there  are  a  monument  to  St.  Suitbertus  and  an- 
other war  monument,  commands  a  pleasing  view.  A  finer  view  is 
obtained  from  the  Konigshbht  on  the  Kiesberg,  iy2  M.  to  the  S.W. 
of  the  tovni.  At  the  base  of  the  Kiesberg  lies  the  Zoological  Garden. 

In  Barmen  the  chief  buildings  are  the  Protestant  Church  (PI.  10), 
designed  by  Hiibsch ;  the  Missionshaus  (PI.  22),  and  the  Missions- 
hir^rhaus^  containing  an  interesting  collection  of  curiosities  from 
foreign  countries ;  and  the  new  Theatre.  On  the  way  from  the  station 
of  Elberfeld  to  that  of  Barmen,  the  train  passes  an  iron  monument 
to  Frederick  William  III. 

From  Elberfsld  to  Dcsseldosf,  17  H.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  2  m. 
40,  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20  pf.).  Stations  Vohmnkel^  Haan  (p.  62),  Hochdahl, 
Erkrathj  Oerresheim^  DUsteldorf  (p.  18). 

The  line  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Wupper.  30  M. 
Rittershausen.  It  then  crosses  the  Wupper,  quits  the  Duchy  of 
Berg,  and  enters  the  County  of  Mark.  The  river  anciently  formed 
the  boundary  between  the  Franks  and  Saxons,  and  now  separates 
the  Rhine-land  from  Westphalia.  —  34  M.  Schwelm  (Rosenkranz), 
a  town  with  13,018  inhabitants.  Farther  on,  the  train  passes  the 
Schwelmer  Brunnen^  a  chalybeate  spring,  and  through  several  cut- 
tings. —  36^2  M.  Milspe.  Pleasing  view  up  the  valley  of  the  £nnepe, 
which  the  train  crosses  by  embankments  and  a  viaduct,  100  ft. 
high.  —  38  M.  Oevelsberg,  a  town  consisting  of  a  long  row  of  de- 
tached houses.  The  stream  turns  the  machinery  of  numerous  small 


54     RouU  7.  HAGEN. 

iron-works,  where  scythes,  sickles,  and  shovels  are  manufactured. 
A  kind  of  axe  for  felling  the  sugar-cane  is  also  made  here  for  ex- 
port. At  (41  M.)  Haspe  are  extensive  puddling-works  and  rolling- 
mills. 

43^2  M.  Hagen  (*H6tel  Lunenachloss,  at  the  station ;  *Kai8erhof^ 
OlitXy  in  the  town),  a  manufacturing  town  with  29,426  inhab.,  and 
the  junction  for  Dortmand,  Cassel  (see  Baedeker's  N.  Oermanyy 
and  Siegen. 

From  Haqen  to  Sibgen  in  3Vs  hra.  (fares  8  m.  60,  6fn.  50,  4  m.  30  pf.). 
This  line  (the  Ruhr-Siegbahn)^  which  connects  the  manufacturing  regions 
of  the  Lenne  and  the  Sieg  with  the  coal-measures  of  the  Ruhr,  runs  to 
the  N.  for  a  short  distance  in  the  valleys  of  the  Vohne  and  the  Ruhr^ 
and  then  turns  to  the  8.  at  the  foot  of  the  Hohen-Syhurg^  into  the  pictur- 
esque and  populous  valley  of  the  Lenne^  which  it  follows  m  far  as  Alten- 
hundem.  5  M.  Kabel.  On  a  hill  to  the  right  rises  a  column  to  the  memory 
of  a  Prince  Bentheim.  11  H.  Hohenlimbarg  {*  Benthtimtr  Hof^  by  the 
bridge  \^  Post),  a  prettily-situated  town  with  6267  inhab.,  is  commanded  by 
the  chateau  of  Prince  Bentheim,  situated  on  a  bold  wooded  height,  and 
affording  a  fine  view.  12V2  M.  Letmathe  (Hotel  Titz ;  EesUurant  at  the 
station),  with  4028  inhab.,  is  the  iunction  for  Iserlohn  (see  below). 

19  M.  Altena  (Klinckey  beyond  the  bridge:  Qu<(mann,  in  the  town)  is 
a  very  picturesquely  situated  little  town  of  8787  inhab.,  with  the  ancestral 
Schloss  of  the  (Jounts  von  der  Mark,  which  commands  an  admirable  view. 
25  M.  Werdohl;  30  M.  PletUnberg;  38  M.  Finnentrop,  whence  a  branch-line 
leads  by  Attendom  to  the  small  town  of  Olpe  (Deutscher  Kaiser),  with 
iron-works,  and  to  RothemUhle;  42  M.  Orevenbrilci;  46  M.  Altenhundem 
(*Plucker),  where  the  line  enters  the  Hundem-  Thai.  At  (53  M.)  Welschen- 
EnneH  the  watershed  of  the  Rahrbacher  Hdhe  (1312  ft.)  is  penetrated  by  means 
of  a  tunnel,  beyond  which  the  train  reaches  (60  M .)  Creuethal,  (63  M.) 
Geitweid,  and  (65  M.)  Haardt. 

66  M.  Siegen  CQoldner  Ldtoe,  R.,  A.,  &  B.  3  m. ;  *Deutscher  Kaiser),  a 
busy  old  mining  town,  with  a  population  of  15,024  souls,  the  centre  of  the 
iron  manufactures  of  the  district,  and  of  a  system  of  meadow-farming,  with 
a  special  school  for  that  branch  of  agriculture.  The  two  castles  belonged 
to  the  Princes  of  Nassau-Siegen  who  became  extinct  in  1743.  The  lower 
castle  contains  a  monument  to  a  Count  of  Kassau-Siegen,  who  was  a  Dutch 
governor  of  Brazil  and  afterwards,  in  the  Brandenburg  service,  Stadtholder 
of  Cleve  (d.  1679  \  comp.  p.  49).  At  Siegen,  on  the  day  of  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul ,  29th  June,  1577,  was  born  the  eminent  painter  Peter  Paul  Rubens,, 
whose  father  Johannes  Rubens,  the  Antwerp  bailiff,  with  his  wife  Marie 
Pypeling,  was  then  living  here  in  exile  (till  1578). 

At  Beizdorf  the  line  joins  the  Cologne  and  Giessen  railway,  see  R.  8. 

JTFrom  Letmathe  to  Iseblohn  by  a  branch-line  in  10-18  min.  (fares  60, 
50,  30  pf.).    Intermediate  station  DechenMhUy  see  below. 

Iserlohn  (Sander;  Post),  a  manufacturing  town  of  some  importance, 
with  18,611  inhab.,  the  chief  products  of  which  are  iron  and  bronze  wares, 
needles,  and  wire.  The  War  Monument  was  erected  in  1883.  The  pictur- 
esque environs  are  crowded  with  factories  of  every  kind.  The  Alexander- 
Mhe,  near  the  station,  is  a  popular  resort. 

At  the  Chrfbie  (Inn),  a  valley  on  the  Lenne  between  Iserlohn  and  Let- 
mathe, rise  two  detached  rocks  termed  the  ^Pater**  and  the  ^l(onne%  near 
which  is  the  Orilrmannshdhle,  a  cavern  containing  numerous  fossil  remains 
of  antediluvian  animals.  On  the  railway  (see  above),  10  min.  to  the  B.  of 
the  Griine,  is  situated  the  highly-interesting  ^Dewenhfthle,  a  stalactite 
cavern  discovered  in  1868  (cards  of  admission,  75  pf.  each,  sold  at  the 
station),   lighted  with   gas,  and  extending  about  300  yds.   into  the  hill.] 


55 
8.  From  Cologne  to  Frankfort  by  Oiessen. 

143  M.  Bailwat  from  Cologne  to  (103  H.)  Gietsen  in  4V2-5Vs  bn.  (fares 
13  m.  30,  10  m.,  6  m.  70  pf.))  from  Giessen  to  (40  H.)  Frankfort  in  li/r 
3  hrs.  (farM  4  m.  40,  3  m.  30,  2  m.  20  pf. }  express,  fi  m.,  3  m.  60  pf.). 

The  tnivL  starts  from  the  Right-Rhenish  stotion  at  Dentz,  and 
traYorses  a  flat  eonntry  at  some  distance  from  the  Rhine.  The  great 
annnal  artillery  practice  of  the  8th  corps  of  the  Prnsslan  army 
takes  place  in  June  and  July  on  the  Wahner  Heide,  an  extensive 
plain,  V2  M.  to  the  £.  of  (8  M.)  Wahn,  Beyond  (121/2  M.)  Troii- 
doxf,  where  the  Right-Rhenish  line  diverges  (p.  71),  the  line 
crosses  the  Agger,  on  the  bank  of  which  to  the  right  Is  situated  an 
extensive  iron-foundry. 

15  M.  Siecfbnrg  (*8iem),  with  7515  inhab.,  lies  pleasantly  on 
the  slope  of  a  hill  at  the  confluence  of  the  Agger  and  the  8ieg. 
Above  it  rise  the  buildings  of  an  old  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded 
by  Abp.  Anno  in  1066  and  now  a  reformatory.  Of  the  abbey- 
church  the  crypt  alone  remains.  The  Parish  Church,  dating  from 
the  second  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  contains  several  Interesting  tombs, 
including  that  of  St.  Anno  (d.  1075),  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  the 
stem  guardian  of  Emp.  Henry  lY.  Siegbnrg  possesses  a  large  gov- 
emment  shot-factory,  extensive  calico-printing  works,  and  other 
important  Industrial  establishments. 

Brancb-line  from  Siegbnrg  to  Friedrich-WUhelmi-HiUtej  see  p.  71. 

Fbom  Sisgbdbo  to  BuKDEBOTH,  23  M.,  railway  in  2Vs-3  hrs.  The 
line  ascends  tbe  picturesque  and  industrial  valley  of  the  Agger^  crossing 
the  stream  several  times.  Beyond  (I1/4  M.)  Dritseh  it  traverses  the  Loh' 
mar-Wald  to  (41/4  M.)  Lohmar.  —  Several  unimportant  stations.  —  16VsM. 
Ehruhovtn,  with  a  chateau  of  Count  Nesselrode,  is  situated  in  an  im- 
portant copper,  zinc,  and  silver-mining  region.  —  20  M.  SngeUkirchen, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  hnsy  valley  of  the  L^apt^  contains  large  spinning- 
factories.  —  23  H.  Rilttdwoth,  with  2978  inhab.,  is  situated  below  the 
junction  of  the  WieM  and  the  Agger,  and  has  important  smelting  and 
puddling-works.    Iron-mines  in  the  vicinity. 

Beyond  Siegburg  (view  of  the  Seven  Mountains  to  the  right), 
the  train  crosses  the  8ieg  for  the  first  time,  and  ascends  the  valley 
of  the  river  over  38  bridges  and  through  13  tunnels  to  Betzdorf  and 
Siegen.  —  From  ("19  M.)  Hennef,  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Wald^ 
hroeL.  The  castle  otAllntr,  the  property  of  HerrCockerill,  adjoin- 
ing the  wood  to  the  left,  stands  at  the  confluence  of  the  Broel  and 
the  Sieg.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  the  monastery  of  Bbdingen^ 
surrounded  by  vineyards ,  and  the  chateau  of  Attenhach.  On  the 
opposite  side  lies  the  village  of  Blanktnherg  (*Honrath,  vrith  a 
terrace  commanding  a  beauitltul  view),  formerly  an  important  forti- 
fied town,  with  a  ruined  castle ;  It  is  now  a  popular  summer-resort. 
Tunnel. 

Beyond  f27  M.)  Eitorf  (*Gerlach)  a  retrospect  is  obtained  of  the 
monastery  of  Merten  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  The  wooded  hills  en- 
closing the  valley  now  increase  in  height.  Two  tunnels  are  passed 
through.  Near  Wmdeck,  with  the  castle  of  that  name  on  the  hill 
to  the  left,  the  railway  and  high-road  pass  through  a  deep  cutting. 


56    BouU8,  GIESSEN. 

36  M.  ScMadem  (diligence  twice  daily  to  Waldbroti).  A  new  chan- 
nel has  here  been  constructed  for  the  Sieg,  while  the  old  one  has 
been  left  dry  for  a  distance  of  2  M.  Tunnel. 

40  M.  Au ;  44  M.  WiMen.  A  little  farther  on,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Sieg,  rises  the  old  chateau  of  8dh!dn»ian,  the  property 
of  Prince  Hatzfeld-Wildenburg.  ~  46V2  M.  NtederhoveU. 

At  (51 V2  M.)  Betsdorf  (Oobteeht)  the  line  diyides :  the  branch 
to  the  left  runs  to  Siegen  (in  V2  ^^m  *ee  p.  54  and  Baedeker's 
Northern  Germany)',  that  to  the  right  to  Oiessen. 

The  line  to  Wetzlar  and  Giessen  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Heller 
to  (56  M.)  Herdorf,  (58  M.)  Neunkirehen,  and  (63  M.)  Burbach, 
crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Heller  and  the  Dill  near  Wwr- 
gersdorf,  and  threads  its  way  through  the  Hickengrund.  It  next 
enters  the  Dillthal.    69V2  M.  Niederdresaelndorf;  73  M.  Haiger. 

771/2  M.  Dillenbnrg  (Hirseh;  Stadt  Frankfurt;  Schwan),  a  pic- 
turesque town  of  3900inhab.,  with  iron  mines  and  a  mining  school. 
The  WiUulmslhurmy  130  ft.  high,  was  erected  in  1872-75  on  the  site 
of  the  ruined  castle  of  Dillenburg,  in  which  William  of  Orange,  the 
liberator  of  the  Netherlands,  was  born  in  1533.  The  tower  contains 
several  relics  of  the  great  patriot  (adm.  30  pf.).  Adjacent  is  the 
Wilhelmslinde,  a  lime-tree  under  which  William  received  the  Neth- 
erlandish ambassadors  in  1568. 

8OV2  M.  Herbom  (670  ft. ;  Metzler),  with  an  old  castle,  now 
a  seminary;  84  M.  Sinn,  Beyond  (89  M.)  Ehringshausen  the  line 
enters  the  Lahnthal,  and  unites  with  the  Nassovian  Railway  (from 
Lahnstein  to  Wetzlar,  R.  27). 

95  M.  Wetalar,  see  p.  207. 

The  line  now  ascends  the  Lahn ,  crosses  the  frontier  of  Hessen 
near  Dutenhofen,  and  unites  with  the  Main-Weser  line  at  Giessen. 
The  ruins  of  Oleiberg  and  Fetzberg  are  seen  on  the  left. 

103  M.  Giessen  (*Kuhne,  near  the  station;  *Einhom;  Rappe; 
Prinz  Carl ;  Bail.  Restaurant ;  good  beer  and  fine  view  at  the  Felsen- 
keller),  situated  on  the  Lahn,  is  mainly  of  modern  origin,  and  con- 
tains 16,855  inhabitants.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  university,  founded  in 
1607,  which  is  attended  by  about  500  students. 

IO8V2  M.  Langgons.  About  3  M.  to  the  left  of  (114  M.)  Butz- 
bach  rise  the  considerable  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Miinxenbergj  de- 
stroyed in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  higher  (154  ft.)  of  its  two 
towers  commands  an  extensive  view. 

120  m.  Nauheim.  —  Hotels.  ^Bellkvue;  '^Cu&saai.;  Hotel  de 
l''Europe^  Deutscher  Hof;  Goldemer  Engel.  —  Private  Apartments  at 
the  Villa  Wagner,  Villa  Langsdor/^  etc.  —  It  is  advisable  not  to  arrive 
late  in  the  evening,  as  the  hotels  are  often  full  daring  the  season. 

Restauranta.    Neuer  Cursaal;  Senkel;  Beinhardt;  Burk. 

Yisitora*  Tax  for  a  stay  of  more  than  5  days,  1  pers.  12  m.,  2  pers. 
18m.,  each  additional  member  of  a  family  3  m. 

Oabs.  Per  drive,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  60  pf.,  34  pers.  80  pf.;  two-horse 
80  pf.  or  1  m.    Per  hour:  2  m.  60,  3  m.  40,  3  m.  <iO  pf.,  or  5  m. 

Nauheim,  a  small  town  of  ^517  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  on 


FRIEDBBRG.  8,  Route.    57 

the  N.E.  slope  of  the  Taanus  Mts.,  with  re^Ur  streets,  shady 
avenues,  and  pleasare-grounds ,  has  of  late  become  a  favourite 
watering-place,  visited  by  5-6()00  guests  annually.  The  warm 
saline  springs,  which  are  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid 
gas,  have  been  known  for  centuries,  but  did  not  begin  to  attract 
visitors  until  about  1840.  Extensive  evaporating-houses  and  salt- 
pans. The  waters  of  the  Friedrick-  WUheims-Sprudel  (95  "^  Fahr.), 
the  Ofotse  8prudel(dO^),  and  the  KUine  Sprudcl  (M°)  are  used 
for  the  baths,  which  are  admirably  fitted  up.  The  Curbrunnen, 
CarlsquelU  (somewhat  resembling  the  Rakoczy  of  Kissingen),  and 
the  Ludwigequelle  (alkaline)  are  drinking-springs.  Adjoining  the 
TrinkhalUj  at  the  £.  end  of  the  town,  are  several  greenhouses.  At 
the  foot  of  the  Johannisberg,  about  V2  ^*  f'om  the  station,  is  the 
handsome  ConversationahauSj  with  elegant  rooms  and  a  fine  terrace 
overlooking  the  extensive  grounds. 

The  train  skirts  the  Gradirhauser(^evaporating-hou8e8'),  crosses 
a  lofty  viaduct,  and  reaches  — 

122  M.  Friedberg  {*H6tel  Trapp;  Restaurant FelsenkelUr,  with 
view),  a  Hessian  district-town  with  4825  inhab. ,  once  a  free  imperial 
town.  The  Protestant  Liebftauenkirche  is  an  interesting  Gothic 
structure,  built  in  1290-1350,  with  towers  dating  from  the  15th 
century.  See  Baedeker  8  Northern  Germany. 

125  M.  Buehenbrucken;  127  M.  Nieder-WolUtadt,  To  the  right 
Tise  the  Taunus  Mts.  130  M.  Qross-Karben ;  132  M.  Dortelweil  ; 
I34Y2M.  Vilbel,  near  which  the  iVidda  is  crossed;  i37M»  Bonames, 
station  forHomburg  (p.  224);  141 M.  Bockenheim,  with  a  handsome 
church,  large  barracks,  and  an  ancient  watch-tower. 

143  M.  Frankfort,  see  p.  208. 

9.  The  Ehine  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  18^  68. 

Steamboat  (60  M.)  in  T-Shrs.  (down  41/3-5 hrs.),  farea  3m.  60,2  m.  40  pf. 
Pier*  at  Bonn,  Konigswinter,  Bolandaeck,  Remagen,  Linz,  Andernach, 
and  D^euwied ;  $mall-4>oat  stations  at  PlittersdoTf-Godesberg,  Unkel,  Nieder- 
Breisig,  Brobl,  St.  Sebastian,  etc.  —  Cabs,  etc.,  at  Cologne,  see  p.  26. 
—  Railway  (57  M.)  in  2-3  hrs.  (7  m.  30,  6  m.  25,  3  m.  70  pf.),  see  B.  10. 

In  the  following  routes  r.  and  I.  indicate  the  position  of  towns,  and 
other  objects,  with  regard  to  the  traveller  ascending  the  river.  The  Left 
Rhenish  and  Right  Rhenish  railways,  however,  are  named  after  the  left 
(W.)  and  right  (E.)  banks  respectively  with  regard  to  the  traveller  de- 
scending the  river. 

Soon  after  the  steamer  has  quitted  the  majestic  city  of  Cologne, 
with  its  cathedral,  numerous  towers,  and  lofty  hridge,  the  chateau 
of  Bentberg  (p.  23) ,  on  an  eminence  9  M.  to  the  left ,  comes  in 
sight.  About  ^/4  M.  to  the  £.  rises  the  Erdenburg^  a  hill  surmount- 
ed by  remnants  of  a  wall,  believed  to  be  of  ancient  Germanic  origin. 
Several  small-boat  stations  CPor»,/Sur</»,  Wesaling,  LiiUdorf,  Widdig, 
and  Mondorf)  now  follow,  which  the  express  steamers  pass  without 
stopping.  Opposite  the  island  of  Graupenwerth,  at  the  mouth  of  thf 


58     Route  9,  MEHLEM.  From  Cologne 

Sieg,  lies  Orau-Bhdndorf.  On  the  hiU-tide,  to  the  left,  several  miles 
inland,  rises  the  tnppressed  Benedictine  abbey  of  Sieghurg  (p.  55). 

On  the  left  we  soon  perceive  the  chnreh  of  Behwan-BliAiiidorf , 
a  cnrions  stracture,  consisting  of  two  stories,  consecrated  in  1151 
by  Archbishop  Arnold  of  Wied,  who  is  bnried  here.  Beneath  the 
dome  is  an  octagonal  aperture  between  the  stories,  10  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, so  that  the  inmates  of  a  nnnnery,  with  which  the  church 
was  in  immediate  connection,  conld  in  tlie  upper  story  distinctly 
hear  the  service  without  being  visible  to  the  congregation  in  the 
lower  story.  Interesting  mural  paintings  of  the  12th  cent,  were  dis- 
covered in  the  lower  church  a  few  years  ago  during  a  restoration 
(comp.  p.  xiix).  The  exterior  is  also  worthy  of  inspection,  espe- 
cially the  remarkably  elegant  miniature  gallery  which  runs  round 
the  upper  part  of  the  church  on  the  E.  side. 

To  the  right  we  next  observe  the  Jemitenhof  ^  and  then  the 
Wichelshof  (p.  76).  As  the  steamboat  approaches  Bonn,  the  charms 
of  the  scenery  of  the  Rhine  gradually  begin  to  present  themselves. 
The  lofty  tower  of  the  Miinster,  the  handsome  residences  on  the 
Rhine  above  the  town,  the  long  buildings  of  the  University  peeping 
from  among  the  trees,  and  the  grounds  of  the  ^Alte  Zoll^  give  the 
town  a  very  attractive  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  steamboat. 

r.  Bonn,  see  Route  12. 

After  Bonn  is  quitted  we  enter  the  most  picturesque  and  famous 
portion  of  the  river.  Ramersdorfj  to  the  left,  with  woods  in  the 
background,  was  formerly  a  lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  the  chapel 
of  which  was  removed  to  the  cemetery  at  Bonn  (p.  79). 

1.  Obercassely  and  railway-ferry  to  Bonn,  see  p.  71. 

r.  Plittersdorf  (Restaurant  Mundorf,  with  'pension'),  station  for 
Godesberg  (p.  69),  1  M.  to  the  S.W. 

1.  NiederdoUendorfj  see  p.  71. 

On  the  right  rises  the  handsome  tower  of  the  ruined  castle  of 
Godesberg  (p.  69),  on  an  eminence,  IV2  ^*  from  the  Rhine.  On 
the  bank  lies  Riirhgsdorf. 

1.  KonigBwinter  (150  ft.;  p.  80),  beyond  which  rises  the 
*Drachenfel8.  Ascent  of  the  latter,  &nd  the  Seven  Mountains ,  see 
p.  81  et  seq. 

r.  Kehlem  (Stem ;  Krone),  a  small  village,  with  a  modern  Ro- 
manesque church  and  numerous  villas  and  gardens,  is  a  railway- 
station  (p.  69),  and  is  connected  with  Konigswinter  by  a  ferry. 

To  the  left,  at  first  concealed  by  the  Islands,  lie  Rhondorf, 
high  above  which  towers  the  ruin  on  the  Drachenfels  (908  ft. 
above  the  Rhine)  and  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  hill  the  Draehenburg 
(see  p.  81),  Rommersdorf,  farther  back,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill, 
and  the  scattered  village  of  Honnef  (p.  72). 

The  steamer  next  passes  the  islands  of  (r.)  Honnenwerth,  or 
Rolandswerth,  and  (1.)  Qrafenwerth.  On  the  former,  peeping  from 
the  midst  of  trees ,  stands  an  extensive  nunnery  of  very  ancient 


«o  Cohlmz.  ROLANDSfiCK.  9.  Route.     59 

OT\g,\Ti,  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  a  document  of  the  12th  cen- 
tury. The  nunnery  was  suppressed  in  1802,  but  was  reopened  in 
184:^  as  a  girls'  school  under  the  auspices  of  Franciscan  nuns  (closed 
at  present).  The  present  buildings  with  the  tower  were  erected 
after  a  lire  in  1673,  and  a  handsome  new  wing  was  added  in  1869. 
r.  Bolandseck.  —  Hotels.  *Rolamd8BCk;  *Roland;  both  with  gar- 
dens and  view;  Billau,  at  the  pier.  —  *Dkcksr,  unpretending,  ^pcnfl/ 
4  m.  —  Kcrilvaf  Restaurant^  with  fixed  but  high  charges,  magnificent  **View 
from  the  terrace. 


Boat  to  Nonnenwerth  and  back  l^/s  m.  \  Rhundorf  and  back  V/t  m. ;  Ko- 
nigs^winter  2V«-3  m.  Ferry  to  Honnef  5  pf.  —  Donkey  to  Roland's  Arch  */<» 
liorse  1  m. ;  to  the  tower  ly*  m.  •,  for  the  retam  V»-V«  naore. 


Molandseek  (idil.  stat.),  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  first  consider- 
able heights  on  theW.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  frequented  spots  on  the  river,  and  is  surrounded  with  numerous 
villas  and  pleasant  gardens,  chiefly  belonging  to  wealthy  merchants 
from  the  Lower  Rhine,  and  extending  along  the  wooded  slopes  at  the 
back  of  the  village.     Leaving  the  station  by  the  public  grounds 
\>eslde  the  railway,  crossing  the  line  at  the  pointsman's  hut  No.  76, 
and  ascending  to  the  left  by  the  Hotel  Roland  (Y2  M.  below  the 
pier)  we  pass  a  shell-grotto  ('Rolandsbom'),  and  following  either 
the  broad  bridle-path  or  the  foot-paths  of  Herr  vom  Rath's  garden 
(usually  open  to  the  public)  past  a  pavilion  on  the  hill,  we  arrive 
in  Y4  hr.  at  the  Rolandsbogen,  or  *Rolaiid  Aroh  (500  ft.  above  the 
sea),  the  last  relic  of  the  Castle  of  Bolandseck,  perched  on  a  basaltic 
rock,  344  ft.  above  the  Rhine.    The  ♦View  hence,  which  is  seen  to 
best  advantage  by  evening-light,  is  less  extensive  than  that  from  the 
Drachenfels,  but  more  picturesque,  as  it  embraces  the  Seven  Mts. 

The  castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  knight  Roland,  the  paladin 
of  Charlemagne,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Ronceval.  The  earliest  histori- 
cal mention  of  it  is  in  a  document  of  1040  or  1045,  where  it  is  called 
Rulcheteck;  the  convent  on  the  island  was  named  RtOchestoerih.  In  1120 
Archbishop  Frederick  partly  restored  the  ruin  for  the  purpose  of  defend- 
ing his  dominions  against  Henry  IV.  The  fortress  stood  till  the  close  of 
the  16ih  cent.,  when  it  fell  entirely  to  decay.  The  beautiful  legend  con- 
nected with  the  castle  and  convent  may  be  thus  briefly  told:  — 

The  brave  knight  Roland,  scouring  the  Rhine  in  search  of  adventure, 
found  himself  ihe  guest  of  Count  Heribert,  lord  of  the  Seven  Mountains, 
at  his  castle  of  Drachenburg.  According  to  custom  the  daughter  of  the 
host,  the  peerless  Hildegunde ,  welcomed  him  with  the  offering  of  bread, 
wine,  and  fish.  Her  beauty  riveted  the  gase  of  the  young  knight,  and 
Hildegunde  and  Roland  were  soon  affianced  lovers.  But  their  happiness 
was  brief:  Roland  was  summoned  by  Charlemagne  to  the  crusade.  Time 
sped  on,  and  anxiously  did  Hildegunde  await  his  return.  But  sad  rumours 
came.  The  brave  Roland  was  said  to  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of  the  In- 
ftdels,  and  the  inconsolable  Hildegunde  took  refoge  in  the  'Kloster'  in  the 
adjacent  island  of  Nonnenwerth.  The  rumours,  however,  of  the  death  of 
her  betrothed  were  unfounded.  Although  desperately  wounded,  he  recov- 
ered, and  hastened  to  the  halls  of  Drachenburg  to  claim  his  bride  ^  but 
instead  of  being  welcomed  back  by  her  fondly-remembered  smile,  he  found 
that  she  was  for  ever  lost  to  him.  In  despair  he  built  the  castle,  of  which 
one  crumbling  arch  alone  remains ,  and  there  lived  in  solitude,  catching 
an  occasional  glimpse  of  a  fair  form  passing  tot  and  fro  to  her  devotions 
in  the  little  chapel  of  the  Kloster.  At  length  he  missed  her.  and  soon 
the  tolling  of  the  bell  and  a  mournful  procession  conveyed  to  him  the 


60    BouU  9,  REMAGEN.  From  Cologne 

heart-rending  intelligence  that  his  beloved  Hildegunde  was  no  more.  From 
that  moment  Roland  never  spoke  again;  for  a  short  time  he  dragged  on 
his  wretched  existence,  but  his  heart  was  broken,  and  one  morning  he  was 
found  rigid  and  lifeless,  his  glassy  eye  still  turned  towards  the  convent 
chapel. 

The  modern  tower  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  Y2  ^*  ^  the  W.  of  the 
ruin,  affords  a  wider  prospect,  embracing  Godesberg,  the  spurs  of  the 
Seven  Mts. ,  and  the  plain  between  Bonn  and  Cologne.  The  key  may  be 
procured  from  the  owner,  Herr  vomRath,  who  lives  opposite  the  Hdtel 
Roland;  on  Sun.  the  custodian  is  generally  at  the  tower  (25-50 pf.). 

About  1/2  V*  ^i'Oi>A  the  tower  is  the  Roderberff^  a  crater,  340  yds.  in 
diameter,  and  60  ft.  in  depth,  with  a  rounded  margin.  The  bottom  is 
now  arable  land,  belonging  to  the  farm  of  Bruchhof. 

r.  Oberwinter  (Post;  Loosen).  The  retrospect  hence  is  one  of  the 
finest  on  the  Rhine.  Rolandseck,  and  the  Drachenfels  with  its  castle, 
the  cliffs  of  the  Wolkenburg ,  and  the  whole  of  the  peaks  of  the 
Seven  Mts.,  upwards  of  thirty  in  number,  form  a  picture  of  incom- 
parable beauty,  while  the  lovely  island  of  Nonnenwerth  and  the 
grand  river  itself  constitute  the  foreground.  On  the  right  bank  is 
the  flattened  summit  of  the  Lowenburg,  with  its  ruin.  The  Isolated 
cone  to  the  extreme  right  is  the  Hemmerich. 

1.  Bheinbreithach  (*Clouth^  with  'pension'  and  garden),  a  fa- 
vourite summer-resort,  lies  at  the  entrance  to  a  wide  valley,  which 
extends  from  the  Rhine  to  the  Siebengebirge  (comp.  p.  72).  Fine 
view  from  the  (Y4  M.)  Heilig,  a  hill  surmounted  with  a  cross.  The 
ancient  copper  and  lead  mines  on  the  Virneberg  are  no  longer 
worked. 

1.  Unkel  (^Clasen^  R.  &  B.  2Y2?  *pens.'  5  m.,  good  wine,  with 
garden  and  view-terrace)  is  a  prosperous  village,  a  favourite  resort 
in  summer  and  autumn  (rail,  stat.,  see  p.  72).  On  the  hill  is  a  pa- 
vilion, affording  a  beautiful  view.  Between  Unkel  and  Remagen 
the  Rhine  describes  a  wide  curve.  A  little  inland  is  the  village  of 
Scheuren.  Of  the  numerous  country-houses  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  river ,  the  most  conspicuous  is  the  chateau  of  Marienfels, 
1/2  M.  below  the  Apollinariskirohe. 

r.  Bemagen.— Hotels.  ^HStbl  Fubstbnbero  andE6Ni6  vonPreusssn, 
on  the  Rhine,  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  with  gardens,  first-class ; 
Bhein-Hotbl,  on  the  Rhine,  next  door  to  the  Fiirstenberg  Hotel,  R.  A  B. 
2  m.  80  pf. ;  Ankbb,  also  on  the  Rhine.  —  Hotel  Fassbekdbb,  Hotel 
MoMJAU,  and  Hotbl  Csambb,  all  in  the  principal  street,  with  restaurants ; 
Bbllingbb,  Hobstmann,  at  the  railway-station ;  Victoriabebo,  Zuh  Apol- 
LINABI8BBB6,  a  little  below  the  town,  unpretending. 

Oarriagea.  To  the  ApollituuHskirche^  one-horse  1  m.  25  pf.,  two-horse 
1  m.  50pf. ;  to  Rolandseck  4  or  6m.,  there  and  back  7  m.  or  10  m.  50pf. ;  to 
Altenahr  10  m.  or  13  m.  50  pf.,  there  and  back  14  or  18  m.,  or  spending 
a  night  there  15  or  21  m.  •,  Laacher  See  and  back  I4m.  50pf.  or  18  m.,  by 
Andernach  18  or  22  m. 

Remagen  (rail,  stat.),  a  small  town  with  3200  inhab.,  situated 
13  M.  above  Bonn  and  22  M.  below  Coblenz,  is  an  excellent  starting- 
point  for  excursions.  It  is  mentioned  as  Rigomagus  in  the  Peutinger 
'ap  of  Roman  roads  (p.  xxiv),  and  Roman  mile-stones,  now  pre- 


to  Coblen%.  REMAGEN.  9.  Route.    61 

served  at  Mannheim  and  Bonn,  have  been  found  here.  Remagen  was  a 
place  of  some  importanoe  in  the  middle  ages,  hut  declined  after  the 
Thirty  Tears'  War.  It  once  belonged,  like  Sinzig,  to  the  duchy  of 
Jiilich ;  In  1624  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Pfalz-Neuburg,  and 
afterwards  into  that  of  Pfalz-Baiern,  or  the  Bavarian  Palatinate. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
with  a  Romanesque  nave  and  a  Gothic  choir,  consecrated  in  1246. 
In  the  interior  are  a  handsome  Gothic  canopy  and  several  sculp- 
tures of  the  15th  century.  The  Romanesque  Portal  adjoining  the 
Roman  Catholic  parsonage,  adorned  with  grotesque  sculptures  of  the 
12th  cent.,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  Whether  it  originally  belonged 
to  a  palace  or  a  church  is  unknown.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  town 
is  a  new  Protestant  Church,  in  the  Gothic  style.  —  The  head  office 
of  the  Apollinari9  Company  Limited  (p.  86)  is  situated  on  the  bank 
of  the  Rhine. 

A  road  to  the  right  near  the  Protestant  church  crosses  the  rail- 
way and  the  high-road  and  ascends  through  a  hollow  bordered  by 
shady  footpaths  (donkey  1  m. ;  for  the  whole  excursion  272  u)-)  ^^ 
the  (20min.)  top  of  the*Victoria-Berg»  with  promenades,  benches, 
and  several  different  points  of  view  (Victoria-Tempel,  with  a  restau- 
rant, Eremit<me,  Hofreiden,  Ahrplatte),  commanding  a  charming 
and  varied  prospect,  best  by  evening-light.  In  the  foreground  is 
the  Apollinarisklrche,  by  which  we  may  return  to  the  town. 

Immediately  below  Remagen  a  broad  road,  diverging  to  the  left 
from  the  high-road,  ascends  the  Apollinarisbergj  a  rock  of  clay-slate, 
rising  abruptly  from  the  road.  On  the  way  up  is  seen  a  Roman 
votive  stone,  now  built  into  the  wall,  which  was  found  during  the 
construction  of  the  railway,  and  bears  an  inscription  referring  to 
Mercurius  Ambiomarcis.  The  Apollinarisberg  is  crowned  by  the 
elegant  Gothic  four-towered  *ApoIlinari8kirche»  erected  in  1839  by 
Zwimer,  the  late  eminent  architect  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne,  at 
the  expense  of  Count  Fiirstenberg  -  Stammheim  (d.  1859).  This 
little  church  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  and  much-frequented 
pilgrimage-shrine.  In  1164  Frederick  Barbarossa  is  said  to  have 
presented  the  head  of  the  highly-revered  St.  Apollinaris,  Bishop  of 
Ravenna,  to  Archbishop  Reinald  von  Dassele  of  Cologne,  who  was 
in  the  act  of  conveying  it  to  Cologne,  together  with  the  relics  of 
the  Magi,  when  by  some  miraculous  agency  the  vessel  stopped  in 
the  middle  of  the  river  here,  and  refused  to  proceed  until  the  head 
of  the  holy  man  had  been  deposited  in  a  chapel  recently  erected  on 
the  Apollinarisberg.    (It  is  now  in  the  crypt.) 

The  church  is  open  daily  9V2-12  and  2-6  o'clock;  on  Saturdays  and 
the  evea  of  festivals  9y2-12  and  2-4,  on  Sundays  and  holidays  11-12  and 
1-3  o^clock  (admission,  30  pf.).  The  ^Intebiob  is  adorned  with  ten  large 
^Frescoe*  in  the  best  style  of  modern  German  religious  painting. 

On  the  left,  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Saviour,  by  Deffer  and  IHeti' 
b€ichy  on  the  right,  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin ;  in  the  centre,  Women 
of  the  Old  Testament,  by  Mailer;  below,  Meeting  of  St.  Joachim  and  St. 
Anna,  and  Hary  ascending  the  steps  of  the  Temple,  by  Ittenbach.    In  tho 


62     Route  9.  LINZ.  From  Cologne 

S.  transept,  St.  ApolUnaria  consecrated  bishop,  and  miraculous  resuscita- 
tion of  a  girl^  in  the  IT.,  destruction  of  idols,  death  and  beatitude  of  the 
saint,  and  a  Crucifixion.  In  the  choir  on  the  right.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin ; 
left,  the  Resurrection.  On  the  external  side  of  the  arch,  on  the  right,  St.  Jo- 
seph, on  the  left ,  '^Mary  and  the  Child,  \>yDeger.  In  the  Chancel  the  Saviour 
with  the  Virgin  and  St.  John  the  Baptist,  by  Deger^  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Apollinaris  with  the  four  Evangelists,  by  Ittenbach.  —  The  Cbypt  contains 
the  sarcophagus  of  the  saint,  of  the  i4th  cent.,  surmounted  by  a  modern 
statue  by  Stephan  of  Cologne.  In  the  a4joining  chapel  is  a  painted  cruci- 
fix carved  by  Veil  Stoss. 

Just  "before  turning  to  the  right  to  reach  the  chapel  we  pass  a 
flnger-post  indicating  the  way  to  the  top  of  the  Victoria  -  Berg 
(p.  61 ;  after  5  mln.  ascend  to  the  right),  which  is  reached  hence 
in  20-25  minutes.  [From  the  Victoria-Berg  we  may  go  on  by  the 
Landskron  (p.  85)  to  Neuenahr  (p.  86),  a  walk  of  2^2  hrs.] 

Railway  from  Remagen  to  AhrweileVy  see  p.  86. 

Eeppingen  and  the  Landskron  are  reached  by  the  road  by  which  the 
traveller  has  ascended  the  ApoUinarisberg ,  and  which  he  follows  to  the 
right  after  returning  to  it  from  the  church  (see  p.  85). 

Opposite  Remagen,  near  Erpel  (rail,  stat.;  *  Weinberg,  with  ve- 
randa), rises  the  Erpeler  Lei  (666  ft.  above  the  sea,  502  ft.  above 
the  Khine),  a  basaltic  cliflF,  the  columns  of  which  are  thicker  than 
those  of  the  Minderberg  and  Dattenberg  quarries  (see  below) ;  fine 
view  from  the  top  (ascent  from  the  N.  side,  in  25  min.).  Above 
Erpel  are  (1.)  Kashach  and  Linzerhausen,  the  latter  commanded  by 
the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  Ockenfels, 

1.  Lihb  (rail,  stat.;  *Wein8tock,  near  the  station,  with  a  gar- 
den on  the  Rhine,  *pen8.'  4^2  ni»  j  Nassauer  Hof;  Hdtel  Hammer- 
stein;  Deutscher  Kaiser"),  an  ancient  town  of  the  Electorate  of 
Cologne  with  3410  inhab.,  is  still  partly  surrounded  by  walls  and 
towers.  The  Romanesque  *  Church  of  St,  Martin,  dating  from  the 
13th  cent.,  with  a  Gothic  spire  and  other  Gothic  additions  of  the 
16th  cent.,  contains  fine  stained  glass  and  an  admirable  winged 
picture  of  the  old  Cologne  school  (1463),  representing  the  Annun- 
ciation and  Crucifixion  on  the  outer  wings,  the  Annunciation  and 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin  on  the  inner,  and  the  Nativity,  Adoration, 
Presentation  in  the  Temple,  and  Christ  appearing  to  his  mother  in 
the  centre.  This  picture  and  the  old  frescoes  were  restored  in  1850. 
Fine  view  from  the  Donatusberg,  or  Kaiserberg,  which  is  crowned 
with  a  chapel.    The  environs  of  Linz  yield  good  red  wine. 

The  extensive  'Basalt  Quarries  of  Dattenberg  and  the  Minderberg  near 
Linz  deserve  inspection,  especially  the  latter.  The  road  to  the  *Mihdsk* 
BEKQ  ascends  the  valley  to  the  E.,  past  the  StemerhHtte.  (Near  the  latter 
is  a  chateau  of  the  Prince  of  Salm-Kyrburg ;  above  it  the  Renneberg  with  a 
tower  on  the  summit.)  From  the  Stemerhutte  the  path  ascends  to  the  left, 
and  the  quarry  soon  comes  in  view.  It  is  a  spacious  hall  of  beautiful 
black  prismatic  columns  of  basalt,  square  or  hexagonal  in  form,  some  of 
them  upright,  others  heaped  together  in  confused  masses,  each  3-10  in. 
in  diameter,  and  sometimes  20  ft.  in  length.  When  struck  they  produce 
a  clear  metallic  ring.  The  *View  from  the  height  above  this  quarry  (1420  ft. 
above  the  sea,  1266  ft.  above  the  Rhine)  is  very  fine.  The  traveller  should 
now  return  by  the  Katbachtfial  towards  the  W.,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
there  is  a  tramway  for  the  transport  of  the  stone  from  the  hill  down  to 
the  valley  (guide  needless).    The  whole  excursion  takes  about  4  hrs. 


to  CobhM.  RUEINKOK.  9.  Route.     63 

The  columiu  in  the  quarry  of  ^Dattkhbebo,  siiuated  in  a  side-vallej 
about  1  M.  above  Linz,  are  as  high  aa  those  at  Hinderberg,  but  much 
thicker.  These  basalts  are  chiefly  exported  to  Holland,  where  they  are 
used  in  the  construction  of  dykes. 

From  (r.)  Krippty  a  small  village  on  the  Rhine,  connected  with 
Linz  by  a  flying  bridge,  a  path  leads  past  the  estate  of  Qodenkaus  to 
the  Mineral  Spring  ofSinsig^  which  contains  carbonate  of  soda,  and 
is  free  from  iron. 

Between  Remagen  and  Nieder-Breisig  the  Rhine  describes  a 
curve  which  the  railway  and  road  cut  off.  The  beautiful  church  of 
(r.)  Sinsig  (p.  68,  on  the  railway,  1 V2  ^-  ^'om  the  river)  is  visible 
from  the  steamboat.   Behind  rises  the  Landskron  (p.  85). 

We  now  pass  (r.)  the  mouth  of  the  Ahr  (p.  85).  The  village 
of  Dattenberg  (see  above)  is  next  seen  peeping  from  a  ravine  on  the 
left.  On  the  same  bank  lies  Leuhadorf  with  the  Saalkof,  a  small 
building  with  four  turrets,  anciently  a  royal  chateau.  Near  it  Arien" 
dorf,  with  a  chateau  of  Herr  y.  Lorch. 

On  the  left  we  next  observe  the  castle  of  Arenfeli,  erected  by 
Henry  of  Isenburg ,  and  named  by  him  after  his  wife  the  Countess 
of  Are.  It  is  now  the  property  of  Count  Westerholt,  by  whom  it  was 
handsomely  restored  under  the  directions  of  Zwirner,  the  architect 
of  Cologne  cathedral  (open  to  visitors  on  Wed.) .  The  Rittersaal  contains 
some  fine  old  weapons  and  pictures,  and  the  grounds  (open  to  the 
public)  command  beautiful  views.  —  The  Malbefgskopf  (1290  ft. ; 
lV2^f*  from  Honningen),  crowned  with  a  cross  commemorating  the 
events  of  1870-71,  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

1.  Hdnningen  {Kraw^  R.  &  B.  Vl^m,^  good  cuisine  and  wine; 
also  rail,  stat.),  at  the  foot  of  Arenfels ,  and  Sheinbrolil  ( Krone) ^ 
with  a  fine  modern  Gothic  Church,  are  large  villages,  situated  in  a 
fertile  plain,  beyond  which  the  mountains  to  the  left  rise  more 
abruptly  from  the  river. 

r.  Hieder-Brei8ig(£en<2er ;  Wtmes  Ross ;  also  rail.  stat. ;  p.  68), 
near  which  are  many  pleasant  villas,  lies  opposite  Hdnningen.  Near 
theS.  end  of  the  village  stands  part  of  the  Tempelhof,  an  old  Templars' 
Lodge.  About  1^/4  M.  higher  up  ,  a  path  ascends  the  wooded  hill 
to  the  ch&teau  of  — 

r.  Bheineck,  the  carriage  -  road  to  which  winds  up  the  N.  and 
W.  sides  of  the  hill ;  on  the  Rhine,  far  below,  lies  the  hamlet  of 
Thai  Rheineck,  The  square  tower,  65  ft.  in  height,  on  the  E.  side, 
is  the  only  relic  of  the  old  castle,  erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  which 
was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689,  and  by  the  troops  of  the 
Electorate  of  Cologne  in  1692,  and  finally  burned  in  1785.  The 
knights  of  the  castle  became  extinct  in  1548.  The  new  chateau, 
in  the  round-arch  style,  the  property  of  Herr  von  Bethmann-Hollweg 
(d.  1886),  was  erected  in  1832  by  Lassaulx. 

The  Imtksios  (to  which  visitors  are  generally  admitted^  fee  for  1  pers. 
50-76  pf.,  a  party  2-3  m.)  contains  several  works  of  art.  Picture  by  Begas^ 
representing  Emp.  Henry  IV.  in  the  court  of  the  chateau  of  Canossa.  In 
the    chapel    the    Sermon    on    the  Mount  and  the  Beatitudes  by  SteinU^ 


64     Route  9.  ANDERNAOH.  From  Cologne 

frescoes,  1839-40.  Crucified  Ohrist  in  marble,  by  Achtermann  of  Home.  The 
•View  from  the  garden  (always  open)  embraces  the  coarse  of  the  Rhine 
from  Andernach  to  the  ApoUinarisberg. 

On  the  right,  the  Brohlbach  falls  into  the  Rhine  at  BroW  (^ Peter 
Brohl ;  *Nonn  Sen. ;  *Nonn  Jun.  /  also  railway-station) ,  which  ad- 
joins the  hamlet  of  Nippes,  and  is  the  dep6t  for  the  tafifstone 
quarried  in  the  Brohlthal.  Excursion  through  the  Brohlthal  to 
Laach  (one-horse  carriage  8  m. ;  gratuity  extra),  see  p.  91 . 

1.  Nieder-Hammerstein  (Zwick),  yielding  good  wine ;  then  Oher- 
Hammerstein  (Zur  Burg  Hammerstein),  near  which  rises  a  massive 
rock  of  grauwacke,  crowned  with  the  ruin  of  Hsmmeritein.  The 
Emp.  Henry  IV.  resided  in  this  castle  for  some  time  when  perse- 
cuted by  his  son  Henry  V.,  and  here  he  kept  the  imperial  insignia 
till  their  removal  by  his  usurping  successor.  During  the  Thirty 
Years'  War  the  castle  was  successively  occupied  by  Swedes,  Span- 
iards, troops  of  Cologne,  and  soldiers  of  Lorraine,  and  it  was  at 
length  destroyed  in  1660  by  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  as  being 
too  powerful  a  neighbour  to  be  tolerated. 

On  the  heights,  4  M .  to  the  £.  of  the  Rhine,  the  course  of  the  P/ahl- 
ffrttben,  a  Roman  intrenchment  constructed  as  a  protection  against  the 
attacks  of  the  Germanic  tribes,  is  distinctly  traceable,  and  may  be  followed 
from  Monrepos  (p.  66)  as  far  as  the  Seven  Mts.  (comp.  p.  225). 

Above  (r.)  Fomieh  rises  ih&  Fomicher  Kopf,  an  extinct  volcano 
(see  p.  xix). 

r.  Namedy ,  at  some  distance  from  the  river ,  possesses  a  small 
Gothic  abbey-church  of  the  15th  cent.,  bisected  by  a  row  of  slender 
columns,  and  an  old  mansion  of  the  knights  of  Namedy.  On  the  left 
lies  the  large  village  of  LeTLtwdOTf  (^Maasberg ;  Delveaux,  unpre- 
tending; also  rail,  stat.),  behind  which  rise  productive  vine-yards 
planted  among  the  rocks.   Below  is  an  old  Gothic  church. 

On  the  right  rises  the  wooded  Krdhnenberg,  now  traversed  by 
paths,  which  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the  river  (26  min.  from 
the  railway  station  at  Andernach  is  the  *Krahnenburg  Bettaurant). 
The  mountains  which  confine  the  river  now  recede. 

r.  Andernach  (*Hackenbruckj  Hoch-Str. ;  Qlocke^  in  the  Markt, 
with  restaurant;  Schdfer^  on  the  Schanzchen,  near  the  Rhine,  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  town ;  also  rail,  stat.),  an  ancient  little  town 
with  5700  inhab.,  with  narrow  streets,  and  still  to  a  great  extent 
surrounded  by  its  old  walls,  extends  picturesquely  along  the  bank  of 
the  river,  above  which  rise  conspicuously  the  old  bastion,  the  Rhein- 
thor,  the  crane,  and  the  lofty  tower  at  the  lower  end  of  the  village, 
while  the  handsome  parish-church  with  its  four  towers  Is  visihle  in 
the  background.  Andernach  was  the  Roman  Antunrhacum^  or  Au' 
tonaco,  one  of  the  fifty  forts  of  Drusus.  Subsequently  to  the  6th 
cent,  it  is  frequently  mentioned  as  a  royal  Franconian  residence.  In 
the  middle  ages  it  was  an  Imperial  town,  but  was  taken  by  the  Elec- 
torate of  Cologne  in  1496 ;  in  1688  it  was  burned  by  the  French. 

The  *Parish  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  Genovefa,  with  its  four 
towers  and  richly-decorated  portals,  is  a  fine  late-Romanesque  edifice 


to  Coblenz,  NEUWIED.  9.  HottU.     65 

(1206),  without  a  transept.  The  still  earlier  choir,  around  which 
runs  a  gallery  of  small  oolamns,  dates  from  1120. 

Over  the  aisles  runs  a  tiiforium.  Oa  the  ▼aolting  of  the  nave  are  the 
Imperial  arms,  with  those  of  the  town  and  of  Hermann  IV.,  Archbishop 
of  Cologne  (d.  IfiOB).  Choir  re-decorated  in  1866.  Carved  wooden  pulpit 
brought  in  1807  from  the  Abbey  of  Laach  (p.  88).    Late>&om«nesque  font. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  near  the  Cohlenzer  Thor,  from  a 
deep  fosse,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  once  fortified  CastU  of  the  Electors 
of  Cologne,  with  its  handsome  towers,  erected  in  the  15th  cent., 
and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1688.  —  The  Raikhaus,  a  late- 
Gothic  building  of  1564 ,  contains  a  few  Roman  antiquities. 

The  lofty  round  *Watch-Tower  on  the  Rhine,  with  an  octagonal 
story  above,  adorned  with  a  pointed  frieze,  was  erected  in  1451-68 
and  restored  in  1880.  The  wide  breach  on  the  W.  side  was  made  by 
the  French  cannonade  in  1688.  —  The  picturesque  Crane  on  the 
Rhine  dates  from  1554. 

The  lava  millstones,  the  tufa,  trass,  and  other  volcanic  products  of  the 
neighbourhood,  form  an  important  object  of  commerce.  —  About  Vs  U. 
inland  from  Andemach  is  the  extensive  Lunatic  Asylum  of  Si,  Thomas, 

Railtcajf  from  Andemach  to  Mafftn,  see  j^.  90. 

On  the  hill  above  the  village  of  (1.)  Fahr  (Hufschmidt),  which 
lies  nearly  opposite  Andernaoh,  is  a  handsome  country  •  house. 
Farther  up,  on  an  eminence,  stands  the  Romanesque  Feldkirche, 
surrounded  by  fruit-trees;  at  its  base  lies  the  village  of  Jrlieh, 
near  which  the  Wiedhach  falls  into  the  Rhine.  The  hill  rising  on 
the  opposite  bank,  a  little  inland,  is  the  Plaidter  Hummerich 
(685  ft.).  The  steamboat  next  passes  the  mouth  of  the  Nettc  (r.), 
on  which,  1/2  M.  inland,  are  the  extensive  mills  of  the  Netter-Hoff 
and  soon  stops  at  the  pleasant  and  thriving  town  of  — 

1.  Heawied  (^  Anker,  *  Wilder  Mann,  both  on  the  Rhine,  D. 
27201. ;  *  Moravian  Hotel,  frequented  by  English  travellers ;  Mader, 
at  the  station  of  the  right  bank ;  Hommer,  at  the  station  of  the  left 
bank;  railway  on  both  banks,  comp.  pp.  68,  73).  The  town,  with 
its  broad,  well-built  streets,  was  founded  in  1653,  on  the  site  of 
the  village  of  Langendorf ,  which  had  been  destroyed  in  the  Thirty 
Years'  War,  by  Count  Frederick  of  Wied ,  who  invited  numerous 
settlers,  without  distinction  of  religion  or  payment  of  money.  Under 
his  auspices  the  town  rapidly  increased.  The  population  (10,194) 
consists  of  Protestants,  Roman  Catholics  (3800),  Moravian  Brothers, 
Baptists,  and  Jews,  who  have  lived  together  here  in  great  harmony 
since  that  period.  Starch,  ehicory,  tobacco,  and  cigars  are  the  prin- 
cipal products.  The  schools  of  Neuwied  enjoy  a  high  reputation, 
and  are  attended  by  pupils  from  England  as  well  as  from  all  parts 
of  Germany. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  rises  the  spacious  Palace  of  the 
Prince  of  Wied,  with  its  fine  Park.  A  building  near  the  palace- 
gate  ,  adjoining  the  street ,  contains  a  small  Collection  of  Roman 
Antiquities,  from  Niederbiber  (p.  66). 

The   Horavian  Brothers,   also    called    Hermhuter   from   Herrnhut   in 

Bakdrker's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  5 


66     Route  9.  ENGERS.  From  Cologne 

Saxony,  where  they  had  established  themselves  after  their  expulsion 
from  Moravia  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  occupy  a  separate  part  of 
the  town.  Their  establishments  afford  an  insight  into  the  habits  of  this 
sect  and  are  worthy  of  inspection.  They  were  originally  followers  of 
John  Huss,  and  their  number  increased  enormously  after  his  death. 
They  now  form  a  kind  of  religious  republic,  having  their  own  laws 
both  for  public  and  private  life,  which  are  administered  by  their  elders. 
The  gravity  and  austerity  of  their  manners  and  habits  has  gained  for 
them  the  appellation  of  the  Quakers  of  Germany.  The  unmarried  brethren 
live  in  a  separate  building,  and  carry  on  different  trades,  the  profits 
of  which  are  devoted  to  the  community.  Fayence  stoves  and  deerskin 
gloves  are  their  best  manufactures.  Visitors  are  readily  admitted,  and 
are  first  conducted  to  the  magazine,  where  they  are  expected  to  make 
some  purchase.  The  establishment  for  the  sisters  is  similarly  conducted. 
They  are  recognised  by  their  peculiar  white  head-dresses,  fastened  with 
ribbons  of  different  colours,  according  to  their  age  and  condition  —  girls 
dark  red,  young  unmarried  women  pink,  married  women  blue,  widows 
white.  At  stated  seasons  ^ove-feasts"  are  celebrated  in  the  church,  ac- 
companied by  singing,  prayers,  a  sermon,  and  tea-drinking.  Their  schools 
are  well  attended  and  in  high  repute. 

Excursion  fbom  Nkuwied  to  Monrkpos  and  Altwikd.  Prom  the 
station  of  the  Right  Rhenish  line  (p.  73)  we  proceed  to  (V«  M.)  ffeddes- 
dorf  and  turn  to  the  left,  following  the  road  which  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Wied.  At  the  (1  M.)  RaueUtein  Foundry^  the  oldest  puddling- work  in 
Germany,  founded  in  1824,  walkers  cross  the  stream  and  traverse  the 
pleasant  park  of  Ifothhausen  C^Restaurant),  following  the  right  bank  to  Begen- 
dorf^  while  the  carriage-road  leads  by  (1V«  M.)  Niederb^r.  Near  the  latter 
village  in  1791,  1819,  and  1857,  were  excavated  extensive  remains  of  a 
Roman  castle,  one  of  the  largest  on  the  Rhine,  which,  however,  is  not 
mentioned  by  any  Roman  author.  The  objects  of  interest  found  here  are 
preserved  in  the  museum  of  Xeuwied,  and  include  the  silver  standard  of 
a  cohort  and  a  stone  erected  in  246  by  the  College  of  the  Yictorienses 
Signiferl,  whence  the  fort  was  once  erroneously  supposed  to  have  been 
named  Victoria.  The  excavations  have  since  been  filled  up.  From  (1  V«  H.) 
Segendorf  a  broad  road  ascends  in  windings  -,  but  these  the  pedestrian  may 
avoid  by  taking  the  footpath  to  the  left  above  Segendorf,  by  which  Mon- 
repos  is  reached  in  »/4  br.  The  villa  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  is  the  seat 
of  the  Dowager  Princess  of  Wied. 

Konrepoa  (869  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  a  chateau  of  the  Prince  of 
Wied,  stands  in  a  beautiful  park  and  commands  an  extensive  prospect 
(refreshments  at  the  Hahnhof,  to  the  W.  of  the  chateau).  The  Eolzttoss 
(reached  in  10  min.  from  the  back  of  the  Schloss  by  a  path  through  the 
beech  wood  in  a  straight  direction)  affords  a  good  survey  of  a  side-valley  of 
the  Rhine.  A  finer  point  is  the  "Altwieder  Aussichty  the  route  to  which  is 
by  the  carriage-road  to  the  E.  of  the  Schloss,  and  then  by  the  third  path 
diverging  to  the  right  (stone  way-post  by  a  large  oak).  Footpaths  descend 
hence  in  20  min.  to  "^AJtwied  (Berbst^t  /»i»,  where  the  key  of  the  castle  is 
kept),  a  village  situated  on  the  Wied  about  2  M.  above  Niederbiber,  and 
commanded  by  the  extensive  ivy-clad  ruins  of  the  ancestral  castle  of  the 
ancient  Counts  of  Wied.  —  The  BnuuMbnrirt  1  ^r.  to  the  N.W.  of  Nieder- 
biber  (reached  via  Oberbiber)^  a  ruined  castle  on  a  wooded  height,  com- 
mands a  picturesque  view. 

Immediately  above  Nenwled,  on  the*  same  bank,  are  the  Her- 
mannshutte,  the  property  of  Herr  Krupp  of  Essen,  and  the  Oermania 
foundry.    On  the  opposite  bank  we  next  observe  the  village  of  — 

r.  WeiBBenthnTm,  with  its  small  modern  church.  At  the  N.  end 
of  the  village  rises  a  square  watch-tower,  erected  in  1370  by  Kuno 
von  Falkenstein,  the  extreme  point  of  the  dominions  of  the  Electors 
of  Treves,  which  here  adjoined  those  of  Cologne.  Above  the  village 
stands  an  obelisk  to  the  French  General  Hoche,  who  crossed  the 


to  CobUru,  UR6AR.  9.  BouU.    67 

Rhine  here  in  1797  with  the  army,  and  shortly  afterwards  died 
suddenly  at  Wetzlar,  at  the  age  of  30. 

Above  Weissenthnrm  are  lime-kilns  and  a  manufactory  for  pre- 
paring the  Engers  stone  (see  below) ;  then  Urmits  and  KcUtenengers, 
opposite  — 

1.  Engers  (^Zur  Rdmerhriidte ;  Restaurant  WetteUy  opposite  the 
railway-station  J,  formerly  ^Kuno8tein-Enger8\  the  ancient  capital  of 
the  Engersgau.  In  1386  Archbishop  Kuno  von  Falkenstein  (p.  104) 
erected  a  castle  here  with  a  round  tower  (the  ivy-dad  trunk  of 
which  rises  below  the  chateau),  to  protect  the  navigators  of  the  Rhine 
from  the  rapacious  Counts  of  the  Westerwald.  The  adjoining  cha- 
teau, now  a  Prussian  military  school,  was  erected  in  1758  by  Elec- 
tor Johann  Philipp  von  Walderdorf .  To  the  left  a  retrospect  of  Mon- 
repos  is  obtained,  to  the  right  a  view  of  the  Camillenberg  or  Kar- 
melenberg  (1214  ft. ;  41/2  M.  from  the  river),  near  Basaenheim. 

Near  (1/)  MiXhlhofen,  where  the  Saynhach  falls  into  the  Rhine, 
is  the  foundry  of  that  name ;  farther  back  the  Concordia  Foundry, 
On  a  hill  in  the  background  of  the  valley  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
Sayn  (p.  73). 

On  both  banks  of  the  riyer  here  is  dug  tip  a  peculiar  kind  of  pumice- 
stone  conglomerate  (p.  91).  It  is  cut  into  squares,  mixed  with  mortar, 
and  dried,  and  is  much  valued  as  a  building  material  for  inside  walls. 

1.  Bendorf  (p.  74),  at  some  distance  from  the  river ;  farther  up 
(r.),  the  villages  of  8t.  Sebastian  and  Kesselheimj  opposite  the 
Niederwerthj  which  conceals  the  town  of  (1.)  Vallendar  (p.  74). 

On  the  long  island  of  Niederwerth  is  a  dilapidated  village,  with 
a  convent-church  built  in  1500,  containing  a  carved  altar-piece 
and  fragments  of  good  stained  glass.  Edward  III.  of  England  re- 
sided here  for  a  short  time  in  1337,  and  had  several  interviews  with 
the  Emp.  Lewis  and  other  princes. 

1.  Mallendar.  On  the  hill  above  the  village  stands  Haus  Besae- 
liehj  once  the  property  of  the  Knights  Templar,  and  afterwards  an  Aug- 
ustine nunnery  down  to  1804,  when  it  was  secularised.  On  the 
hillside,  higher  up  the  river,  is  Urbar  (H6telMo$kopp),  surrounded 
by  fruit-trees. 

r.  WaUersheinij  above  it  Neuendorfs  chiefly  inhabited  by  rafts- 
men. The  smaller  rafts  generally  halt  here  for  the  purpose  of  being 
formed  into  larger,  which  are  sometimes  800-1000  ft.  in  length 
and  150-250  ft.  in  breadth ;  they  are  furnished  with  wooden  huts 
for  the  crew,  which  frequently  numbers  150  men. 

The  steamboat  now  passes  the  base  of  Ehrenbreitstein ,  opposite 
the  influx  of  the  Moselle ,  commanding  a  view  of  the  picturesque 
old  Moselle  bridge,  and  stops  at  Cobleni  (R.  16). 


5* 


68 

10.  From  Coblenz  to  Cologne. 

Bailway  on  th«  Left  Bank* 
Comp.  MapSf  pp.  18^  68. 

56V2  M.  Railway  In  2-2»/4  hrg.  ffareg  7  m.,  5  m.  30,  3  m.  50  pf.).  — 
Railway  on  the  Right  Bank,  gee  R.  11. 

Return-tickets  (for  2  days;  comp.  p.  xv)  taken  on  either  side  of  the 
river  are  available  for  the  journey  both  going  and  returning  on  the  oppo- 
site bank,  and  the  traveller  (Ist  or  2nd  class)  may  sometimes  find  it  con- 
venient to  break  his  journey  and  cross  and  recross  the  river  repeatedly. 
The  following  are  the  corresponding  stations :  Bingerhrilck  and  Rudetheim, 
NiederTieimbach  and  Lorch,  St.  Ooar  and  8t.  Qoarthauten^  Boppard  and 
Campf  Rheru  and  Bra/ubach,  Capellen  and  Niederlahnttein,  CobUnz  and  Ehren- 
hreitttein  (crossing  the  railway-bridge  60,  30,  20  pf.  additional),  Neuwied  on 
the  left  and  Neuwied  on  the  right  bank,  Andernach  and  Leutesdor/,  Nie- 
derbreisig  and  HUnningen^  Sinzig  and  Zt'nz,  Remagen  and  Unkely  Rolandseck 
and  JSonnef,  Mehlem  and  K(hiigsioinier,  Oodesberg  and  Obercassely  Bonn  and 
Beuel.  Views  to  the  right.  —  Steamboat,  see  R.  9. 

Coblenzj  see  R.  16.  As  the  train  crosses  the  Moselle  a  fine  view 
of  Ehrenbreitstein  is  obtained  to  the  right.  At  the  foot  of  the 
fortified  Petersberg  (1.)  is  the  pyramidal  monument  of  Marceau 
(p.  99).  The  train  now  traverses  the  extensive  and  fertile  plain 
which  stretches  from  Coblenz  to  Andernach.  At  (5.V2  ^0  ^rmitz 
are  large  stores  of  the  Engers  sandstone  mentioned  above. 

8  M.  V euwied- Weiseenihurm  (steamb.  stat.,  see  p.  65).  The 
station  is  Y2  ^*  ^^^^  ^^^  town  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  which 
communication  is  maintained  by  a  steamer  and  a  ferry-boat.  The 
train  crosses  the  Nette,  passes  the  lunatic  asylum  of  St.  Thomas  (1.; 
p.  65),  once  an  Augustine  nunnery,  and  reaches  — 

1072  M.  Andemaeh  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  64.  The  station  is 
72  M,  from  the  town,  of  which  the  church,  the  ancient  tower,  and 
walls  are  conspicuous.  (Branch-line  to  Afoj/cn,  see  p.  90.)  Beyond 
Andernach  the  train  skirts  the  river  and  commands  a  fine  *yiew  in 
both  directions  (comp.  p.  64). 

Opposite  (15  M.)  Brohl  (Brohlthal,  etc.,  see  R.  15)  is  the  church 
of  Rheinhrohl ;  the  train  then  passes  the  foot  of  Schloss  Rheineek 
and  (151/2  M.)  Nieder-Breisig  (p.  63),  opposite  (r.)  the  castle  of 
Arenfels.  The  line  now  cuts  off  the  wide  curve  which  the  Rhine 
describes  between  Niederbreisig  and  Remagen. 

2072^*  Bixuig  (DeutscfiesHausJy  probably  the  Roman  Sentiacumy 
a  very  ancient  town  with  2580  inhab.,  still  partly  surrounded  by 
high  walls,  lies  at  the  entrance  to  the  Ahrthal  (R.  14),  I72M.  from 
the  river.  It  was  once  the  site  of  a  Franconian  palace,  afterwards  an 
Imperial  residence,  which  latterly  belonged  to  the  Duke  of  Jiilich. 
Picturesquely  situated  on  a  slight  eminence  rises  the  handsome 
*  Parish  Church  j  which  was  consecrated  in  1220,  a  fine  example  of 
the  late-Romanesque  style,  the  round  arch  predominating,  with  very 
slightly  projecting  transepts,  square  turrets  at  the  sides  of  the 
choir,  and  an  octagonal  tower  rising  over  the  centre.  The  interior 
has  recently  been  restored  and  decorated.  The  N.  transept  contains 
a  *  Winged  Picture  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  the  Crucifixion 


REMAQEN.  10.  RouU.    69 

and  Ascension,  and  the  Death  of  Mary,  by  an  early  Cologne  master, 
restored  in  1855.  At  the  foot  of  this  eminence  is  a  tasteful  little 
Gothic  chateau,  bnilt  in  1858  byStatz  of  Cologne.  On  theHelenen- 
berg,  to  the  right  of  the  line,  and  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  rises 
another  conntry-honse  with  pleasant  grounds. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  insigniflcant  AAr,  from  the  Talley  of 
which  rises  the  blunted  cone  of  the  Landskron  (p.  85).  This 
district  is  extremely  fertile,  and  is  called  the  ^Ooldene  MeU\ 

23  M.  Bemagen  (steamb.  stat.)  and  the  ApollinarUkirehe^  see 
pp.  60,  61.  This  is  the  sUtion  for  the  Ahr  Valley  railway  (R.  14). 
The  train  retnms  to  the  river  here;  beautifal  ^Retrospect.  The 
peculiar  stratification  of  the  rocks  is  exposed  to  view  in  the  rail- 
way-cuttings. The  train  runs  close  to  the  river,  commanding  a 
beautifal  view  of  the  opposite  bank  and  the  Seven  Mountains 
(comp.  p.  61). 

271/2  M.  Bolandseok  (steamb.  stat.;  Rail,  Restaurant,  with 
magnificent  **View,  see  p.  59).  In  the  river  lies  the  island  of 
Nonnenwerth,  a  little  below  which  rise  the  picturesque  Draehen- 
fels  and  the  Seven  Mts.  on  the  opposite  bank,  forming  the  most 
conspicuous  feature  in  the  landscape  until  Bonn  is  reached. 

The  train  now  quits  the  river  entirely.  30 V2  M.  Mehlem,  the 
station  for  Konigswinter  on  the  right  bank  (p.  80 ;  ferry),  is  1/4  M. 
from  the  Rhine.    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  78. 

32  M.  OodesbeiCg*  —  Hotels.  *Blimzlbr,  a  large  establishment,  with 
a  garden  mnch  frequented  on  Snn.,  B.,  L.,  A  A.  3,  B.  1  m. ;  *Adlbr. 

Carriages  to  Bolandseck  or  Bonn,  1-2  pers.,  with  one  horse  S^/s,  with 
two  horses  4  m.,  each  additional  pers.  75  pf.  more ;  to  Bemagen,  7  and 
9  m.,  each  additional  pers.  1  m. 

Oodesberg,  a  village  with  3049  inhab. ,  situated  at  the  point 
where  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  begins  to  expand,  is  a  favourite  sum- 
mer-resort, where  wealthy  merchants  of  Cologne,  Elberfeld,  and 
Crefeld  have  erected  a  number  of  handsome  villas,  surrounded  by 
pleasant  gardens.  The  Romanesque  Protestant  Church  was  erected 
by  a  wealthy  merchant  of  Crefeld  in  1857 ;  another,  near  the  sta- 
tion, was  built  quite  lately.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church,  in  the 
Gothic  style,  was  completed  in  1862  firom  designs  by  Statz.  The 
Hydropathic  Establishment  is  much  frequented.  The  alkaline  chaly- 
beate Stahl-Quelle,  sunk  afresh  in  1864,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
small  Oudenauer  Thai,  at  the  foot  of  the  Draischberg,  was  known 
to  the  Romans.  Pleasant  walks  in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  an  eminence  (246  ft.),  V2M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  stands 
the  Castle  of  Oodesberg  (400  ft.  above  the  sea),  with  a  handsome 
tower,  98  ft.  high,  which  is  ascended  by  150  steps.  Fine  view  from 
the  summit.  The  ruin  belongs  to  the  Empress  of  Germany.  The 
Cemetery  of  the  village  lies  within  the  precincts  of  the  castle. 

At  the  base  of  the  hill  a  Roman  colony  is  said  once  to  have  flourish- 
ed, while  at  the  summit  rose  a  fort,  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by 
the  £mp.  Julian  (A.D.  360),  and  a  temple  of  Jupiter,  afterwards  a  Chris- 
tian church.    The  castle  was  erected  in  the  1,3th  and  14th  cent,  hj  the 


70     RouU  10,  BRUHL. 

archbishops  of  Cologne  as  a  place  of  refdge  during  their  frequent  feuds 
with  their  su^ects,  who  on  several  occasions  carried  the  war  as  far  as 


Bonn.  In  1583  the  Bavarians,  fighting  in  support  of  Archbishop  Ernest  of 
Bavaria  against  the  deposed  Gebhard  of  Waldburg,  who  had  become  a 
Protestant,  blew  up  the  castle,  which  was  defended  by  Ck)unt  Adolph  of 


Neuenahr,   the  last  of  his  family.    The  tower  alone  escaped  destruction. 

On  the  right ,  as  Bonn  is  approached ,  immediately  after  the 
train  has  crossed  the  Bonn  and  Coblenz  road,  is  seen  the  *Hoeh- 
kreuz,  a  Gothic  column  30  ft.  high,  ereoted  in  1332-49  to  a  knight, 
who  is  said  to  have  fallen  in  a  duel  at  this  spot,  and  restored  in 
1854.  On  the  hill  to  the  left  is  the  Rosenburg  (p.  79),  and  farther 
off  the  Kreuzberg  (p.  78).  To  the  right  appears  Bonn  with  its  con- 
spicuous new  Protestant  church  and  its  lofty  mlnster-tower. 

36  M.  Bonn  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  74 ;  railway-ferry  to  Ober- 
cassel,  see  p.  71. 

Near  (40  M.)i2ots<2or^  rises  a  mineral  spring  resembling  that  of 
Selters.  To  the  W.,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  line,  is  a  chain 
of  low  and  partly-wooded  hills  called  the  Vorgebirge,  on  which 
numerous  villages  with  orchards  and  country-houses  are  situated. 
The  last  vineyards  in  the  land  of  the  grape  are  now  passed.  — 
44  M.  Sechiem.  Before  reaching  — 

47  M.  Bruhl  (Pavilion;  Belvedere;  Barion)  the  train  intersects 
the  park  of  Briihl,  passing  the  chateau  of  FcUkenlust  on  the  right, 
which  was  once  a  hunting-lodge  of  the  electors,  but  is  now  private 
property,  and  stops  opposite  the  royal  Palace  of  Bruhl,  a  handsome 
building,  erected  by  Elector  Clement  Augustus  in  1728.  During 
the  French  period  Marshal  Davoust  resided  in  it  for  several  years. 
It  was  restored  in  1842  by  Frederick  "William  IV.,  and  has  since 
been  frequently  occupied  by  the  royal  family.  The  interior  is  shown 
by  the  castellan.  The  finely-decorated  halls  contain  old  portraits  of 
Rhenish  electors  and  other  princes.  The  garden  and  park  are 
favourite  places  of  resort,  and  are  always  open  to  the  public.  Bruhl 
itself  is  a  small  town  with  4030  inhabitants.  Near  the  station  is  a 
hydropathic  establishment.  —  A  branch-line  runs  from  Biiihl  to 
the  St.  Pantaleon  station  (p.  24)  on  the  S.  side  of  Cologne. 

50  M.  Kalscheuren,  junction  for  the  Eifel  Railway  mentioned 
at  p.  189.  The  crowded  houses  of  Cologne  soon  come  in  sight.  The 
train  describes  a  curve  round  part  of  the  town,  above  whose  rampaits 
tower  the  imposing  cathedral  and  other  churches,  intersects  the  old 
fortifications  on  the  N.  side ,  and  enters  the  central  station  at  — 

56V2  M.   Cologne,  see  R.  3. 

11.  From  (Cologne)  Dentss  to  Obercassel  (Bonn)  and 
Ehrenbreitstein  (Coblenz). 

Kailway  on  the  Bight  Bank. 
Comp.  Maps,  pp,  18,68,  78. 
55  M.  From  Deutz  to    Troisdorf  in   V«  hr.   (fares   1  m.  35,   1  m.  10, 
80  pf.)i   from  Troisdorf  to  Ehrenbreitstein  in  lVa-2V2  hrs.  (fares  5  m.  60, 


OBERGASSEL.  11,  RouU.     71 

4  m.  20,  2  m.  80  pf.).  The  expreM  train  aUrte  from  the  Central  Station  at 
Cologne.  —  From  Bonn  by  eteam-ferry  to  Ob€txa$fl\  thence  to  Bhren- 
breitfltein  in  lVs-2  hrs.  (farea  5  m.,  3  m.  80,  2  m.  45  pf.). 

The  traveller  bound  for  Coblenz  should  take  a  ticket  to  Ehren- 
breitstein  only,  the  station  of  which  ia  nearer  the  principal  hotela  of 
Coblenx  Uian  the  station  of  the  latter.  The  railway  from  Ehrenbreitstein 
to  Coblenz  crosses  the  river  above  the  bridge-of-boats,  describing  a  circuit 
of  nearly  2  M.  (fares  60,  SO,  20  pf.).  It  should  also  he  observed  that  all 
the  quick  through-trains  from  Cologne  to  Bonn,  Coblena,  Mayence,  and 
Frankfort  run  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  (B.  10). 

From  Cologne  to  (I2V2  M.)  Ttoitdorf^  see  R.  8.  —  14  M. 
Friednch'WiUUlms'Biitte,  an  extensive  foundry,  is  connected  by  a 
branch-line  with  the  small  town  of  SUghutg,  The  train  crosses  the 
8itgy  and  returns  to  the  Rhine  at  (18  M.)  Benftl  {Poti ;  p.  75),  op- 
posite Bonn  (p.  74;  omnibus  to  the  bridge-of-boats  or  the  ferry 
20  pf.). 

The  carriages  for  Bonn  are  conyeyed  across  the  river  by  means 
of  a  ferry.    Bown^  p.  74. 

2OV2  M.  OberoaiMl  (*  Wolftburg,  with  veranda  and  garden,  D. 
2  m.),  a  thriving  little  town  with  an  old  oharch- tower  and  a 
large  oement-faetory ,  lies  on  the  Rhlae  amidst  fruit-trees,  and 
affords  pleasant  summer-quarters.  Well-constracted  walks  lead  to 
the  Steineme  Hatuehen  (^/4  M.  from  the  station;  fine  view),  the 
quarries  of  the  RabenUi,  Heitterbaeh  (p.  83;  2  M.),  and  oihei 
picturesque  points  in  the  neighbourhood.  At  the  village  of  Kuding- 
hofen,  2  M.  to  the  left  of  the  station,  rises  the  Ennert  (518  ft.), 
isrovmed  by  the  Foveattx-Hausdtenf  which  commands  a  beautiful 
view.  Adjacent  are  extensive  basalt  quarries.  —  Obercassel  is  con- 
nected with  the  Left  Rhenish  Railway  by  a  steam-ferry,  and  our  train 
is  here  joined  by  passengers  from  Bonn.  Travellers  bound  for  Sleg- 
burg,  Troisdorf,  and  Deutz  generally  change  carriages  here,  while 
those  for  Bonn  keep  their  seats  and  are  ferried  across  the  river. 

22V2M.  Dollendorf  is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  among 
the  Seven  Mts.  The  station  (Restaurant  zur  Weintraube)  lies  be- 
tween the  villages  of  Nieder-Dollendorf  (Kjone),  on  the  Rhine,  and 
Ober-DoUendorf  (Thiebes),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Heisterbach  valley. 
HeUterbach  (p.  83)  is  I72  M.  distant  by  the  road.  ♦View  from  the 
Pfaffenrottchen. 

23V2  M.  KdnigtwiAter  (p.  80)  is  the  favourite  starting-point 
for  exploring  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Seven  Mts.  The  station 
lies  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town.  The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now 
contracts.  The  train  skirts  the  base  of  the  Draehenfels  and  runs 
close  to  the  river. 

26  M.  Bhdnddrf  (^Draehenfels,  *pens.'  5  m. ;  Wolkehburg,  3V2- 
4  m. ;  Broel,  Theiaen,  unpretending),  a  pleasant  summer-resort, 
1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Honnef.  On  the  lateral  wall  of  the  church  is  a 
well-preserved  tombstone,  in  trachyte  from  the  Draehenfels,  of  the 
last  knight  of  the  Draehenfels,  with  armorial  bearings  and  date 
1530,  brought  here  from  the  abbey  of  Heisterbach.  —  From  Rhon- 


72     Route  11.  HONNEF.  From  Deutz 

doif  to  the  Lowenburg,  3^2  ^-y  ^^  P*  3^;  ^  ^^^  Drachenfels 
40  min.,  by  a  new  bridle-path  vii  the  Kansel  and  the  Siegfrieds- 
hohe,  indicated  by  a  finger-post  on  the  Lowenburg  road,  mentioned 
at  p.  84 ;  to  Konigswinter  1  M. 

27  M.  Eonnef.  —  Hotels.  *H6tbl  Klbih,  with  garden  and  view, 
^ens".  41/2  m. ;  HStkl  de  Bbbohes,  well  spoken  of,  *pen0\  4-41/2  m. ;  Zcm 
SiEBENGEBiBOE  ;  Weinstogk;  Hotel-Rest.  Bbeueb.  —  FensioBs :  *Sehotten, 
6  m.  per  day,  with  large  garden-,  Kereher,  5-6  m.,  also  with  garden;  Dilges^ 
Krahe,  both  5  m. ;  Stang,  4V2-5  m. ;  Buehbender,  4  m. ;  Ckillinffworth^  S^/z- 
4  m.  —  Rheingdd-Restaurant,  on  the  slope  of  the  Reichenberg,  with  view. 

Biver-Batha  near  the  station. 

Garria|ro>«  From  the  station  to  Honnef,  for  1-2  pers.,  one-horse  60, 
two-horse  80  pf.,  each  additional  pers,  25  pf. ;  to  Roland$eck  Ferrp^  one- 
horse  11/4,  two-horse  IV4  m.  \  to  KUnignoinUr  V/7  or  2  m.,  there  and  back 
2V3  or  3  m.)  to  the  Margarethtnhof  4Vc  or  6  m.  t  to  the  L&venlnirger  Bo/ 
672  or  9  m.,  there  and  back  9  or  12  m. :  for  half-a-day  7  or  12,  whole  day 
12  or  20m. 

Boats  to  Bolandseck  or  to  Konigswinter  2  m. 

Honntf^  a  scattered  village  with  4541  inhab.,  lies  Y2  ^-  ^^  the 
left  of  the  railway,  in  a  laxuriantly  fertile  plain,  about  3  M.  long 
and  1  M.  broad,  which  extends  between  the  S.W.  base  of  the  Seven 
Mts.  and  the  Rhine.  It  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  and  snnniest  spots 
on  the  Rhine ,  being  sheltered  from  the  N.  and  E.  winds  by  the 
Seven  Mts.,  and  surrounded  by  vineyards  and  orchards.  Like  Rhon- 
dorf  and  Rheinbreitbach,  it  has  increased  considerably  within  the 
last  few  years,  and  owing  to  its  genial  climate  and  pretty  scenery 
has  become  a  favourite  summer-resort.  A  number  of  villas,  some  of 
which  are  let  to  visitors,  have  lately  sprung  up  here  and  at  the  ad- 
jacent villages  of  Sellhof,  Beud,  Bondorf,  and  Rommersdorf. 

EirviBONS.  Beautiful  walks  lead  to  the  Annathdly  the  Augiuthifhe^  the 
MooshiltU^  and  the  Rheingold  (see  above).  One  of  the  pleasantest  excur- 
sions (2  hrs.)  is  as  follows:  by  the  farm  of  Zieklet^mrg  to  Menzenberg 
(on  the  slope  of  the  hill  is  grown  the  best  red  wine  of  the  district), 
past  the  large  Hagtr-Hof^  by  a  footpath  to  Rheinbreitbach  (p.  60),  and 
back  by  the  road  to  Honnef.  Other  excursions:  by  Menzenberg  to  the 
Hagtr  Kdppelchen  (V2  hr.  5  fine  view) ;  over  the  Heidenkamin  to  the  *Haa- 
nenbwg  (V4  hr.),  the  tower  of  which  commands  a  fine  view ;  to  the 
(1  hr.)  Le^erg  (1142  ft.),  a  basaltic  hill  commanding  a  beautiful  view,  the 
way  to  which  is  indicated  by  a  guide-post  at  the  S.  end  of  Honnef.  — 
Near  Rheinbreitbach  (p.  60)  are  the  old  copper  and  lead-mines  of  the 
Vimd>erg^  which  were  known  to  the  Romans. 

From  Honnef  to  the  L^enburg^  iVs  hr.,  see  p.  84. 

In  the  Rhine,  to  the  right,  lie  the  islands  of  Nonnenwerth  and 
(jrafenwerih ;  on  the  opposite  bank  are  the  picturesque  arched  ruin 
of  Rolandseck  and  the  village  of  that  name.  The  village  of  Rhein- 
hreitbaeh  (p.  60)  is  next  passed,  opposite  which  ifl  Oberwinter.  At 
(24  M.)  Unkel  (p.  60)  the  train  quits  the  fertile  plain  which  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  Seven  Mts.,  and  passes  Erpely  opposite  to  which  lies 
Remagen  with  the  elegant  Apollinariskirche  (jpp.  60,  61). 

34  M.  Linz  (p.  62)  lies  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Ahr,  above 
which,  a  little  inland,  rises  the  handsome  church  of  Sinzig.  The 
train  next  passes  Leu&sdor/^,  Schloss  Arenfels,  ^nd  Ariendorf.  Oppo- 
site (38  M.)  Houiingen  (p.  63)  is  Nieder-Breisig,  a  little  above 


to  Ehrenbreitstein.         VALLENDAR.  11,  Route.     73 

which  rises  8(Mom  Bheineek.  The  traiu  passes  RheifUtrohl,  with  its 
Gothic  church  (opposite  the  Brohl  Valleyj  p.  91),  and  Nieder-  and 
Ober-Hammeraiein,  at  the  base  o(  the  Bammerstein.  On  the  opposite 
bank,  a  little  above  (431/2  M.)  L6uteadorf(jp.  64),  the  picturesque 
and  ancient  town  of  Andemaeh  (p.  64),  with  its  ronnd  tower  and 
handsome  church  in  the  background ,  comes  in  sight.  The  valley 
of  the  Rhine  expands ,  and  we  obtain  a  pleasant  view  of  Nenwied 
on  the  right,  and  Netterhof  on  the  left  bank.  The  train  crosses 
the  Wiedf  skirts  the  park  of  the  Prince  of  Wied,  and  stops  at  — 

47  M.  Henwiad  (p.  65).  The  station  is  a  little  to  the  £.  of  the 
town.  The  train  now  runs  inland  and  traverses  an  extensive  plain, 
but  returns  to  the  river  at  the  next  station. 

491/2  M.  Engers  (p.  67),  the  junction  for  the  line  to  Alten- 
kirchen  and  Limburg. 

From  Enoeks  to  Hachbnbubo,  47  M.,  railway  in  41/t  brs.  (farea  4  m. 
60,  3  m.  10  pf.).  —  The  line  crosses  the  Saynbach,  and  ascends  the  left 
bank  of  the  stream. 

l*/4  M.  Bayn  (Friedriehsberg)^  with  extensive  iron-works  belonging 
to  Herr  Kmpp  of  Essen,  and  a  ch&teaa  and  park  of  Prince  Sayn-Witt- 
genstein-Sayn,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of  Sayn,  has  a  popnlation 
of  1500.  —  *Bohloaa  Bayn  (generally  shown  on  Sundays  and  Thursdays,  1-5 
o^clock;  proceeds  of  admission-fee  devoted  to  charity;  the  attendant  also 
expects  a  trifling  fee)  is  handsomely  fitted  up  and  contains  a  good  collec- 
tion of  modern  pictures  and  sculptures,  and  a  colossal  wooden  figure 
of  Henry  III.  of  Sayn,  originally  belonging  to  his  sarcophagus  in  the 
neighbouring  abbey  of  Sayn,  of  which  he  was  the  founder.  The  Chapel,  a 
tastefal  modern  Gothic  structure,  with  a  crypt,  contains  a  figure  of  Christ 
in  ivory,  said  to  be  by  Oiovanni  da  Bologna^  and  stained  glass  from  Munich. 
—  The  *Park  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  hill ,  on  which  are  situated  the 
extensive  ruins  of  the  old  (kutle  erected  in  the  10th  cent,  and  destroyed 
by  the  French  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  once 
powerful  counts  of  Sayn.  On  the  slope  of  the  hill  are  the  ruined  castles 
of  8i€in  and  Reiftnherg.  —  About  2  M.  to  the  K.  of  Sayn  rises  jthe  spire 
of  Heimbachj.  near  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  abbey  of  Konmers- 
dorf,  with  fine  cloisters  and  chapter-house,  erected  about  1200,  now  the 
property  of  the  Duke  of  Aremberg,  and  used  as  farm-buildings. 

Beyond  a  tunnel  we  have  a  fine  view  of  Sayn,  with  its  chateau  and 
ruined  castle  to  the  left.  The  train  now  ascends  the  picturesque  BexthcU, 
over  numerous  viaducts  and  through  several  tunnels.  To  the  left,  before 
Grensau,  is  the  ruined  castle  of  IsetUmrg^  the  ancient  seat  of  a  still-exist- 
ing family. 

From  (TVs  H •)  Orenxau  a  branch  line  runs  to  (l^/i  M.)  H&hr-Oreni- 
hauaen.  The  station  lies  on  the  boundary  between  the  two  villages,  in 
which  earthenware,  both  usefulVand  ornamental,  has  been  manufactured 
for  centuries.  The  Vienna  Exhibition  of  1873  brought  the  ware  of  this 
district  into  modern  notice.  The  large  factory  of  M$rkeJbach  A  Wick  is 
situated  near  the  station.  The  Ceramic  School,  with  an  interesting  ex- 
hibition, and  *M1lUenbach''s  Inn  are  both  in  Hohr.  —  We  may  return  to 
the  Rhine  on  foot ;  to  Vallendar  (p.  74),  3S/4  M. 

10i/«  M.  Eantbach,  a  village  with  liJUO  inhab.,  carrying  on  the  manu- 
facture of  whet-stones,  made  of  ^Kaxos  emery'  imported  from  Greece  and 
Asia  Minor.  —  A  steep  incline  leads  hence  to  (13V2  M.)  Siershalmt  whence 
a  branch-line  to  Limburg  diverges  (p.  206). 

171/2  M.  Setter*.  The  train  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  Holxhach. 
The  next  stations  are  Marienrachdorf,  Dierdor/^  with  a  chateau  and  park 
of  Prince  Wied,  Raubach,  with  the  large  paper-mill  of  Hedwigsthal,  Pu- 
derbaeh,  SetfeUy  and  Neitereen. 

40  M.  idteakiwhen  (Luyken,  Weiugerler),  an  industrial  village  on  .the 


74     Route  19,  BONN.  Hotels. 

Wiedy  with  iSOOinhab.,  near  which  the  French  under  Oeneral  Kleber  de- 
feated the  Austrians  in  1796.  —  42  M.  Ingtrbach;  Wk  M.  BaiUrt. 

47  M.  Hachenburg  {Krone^  well  spoken  of),  with  a  ch&teau  of  Prince 
Sayn,  built  in  the  13th,  and  restored  in  the  17th  century.  About 
I'A  M.  to  the  K .W.  is  the  former  Cistercian  convent  of  Jiarienttatt,  with 
an  interesting  Gothic  church,  containing  the  tomb  of  Gerhard  II.  of  Sayn 
(d.  1493). 

5072  M.  Bendorf  (NassauiacTier  Bof),  a  small  town  with  4600 
iiihab.,  situated  amidst  orchards  3/^  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  line,  with 
an  interesting  Romanesque  church. 

531/2  M.  Vallendar  (Ariker;  Albert)^  a  busy  little  town  with 
3800  inhab.  who  carry  on  a  hrisk  rlver-trafflc,  lies  on  an  arm  of 
the  Rhine  opposite  the  island  of  Niederwerth  (p.  67).  On  the  banks 
of  the  river  are  large  depots  of  the  Hohi  pottery  (see  below).  On 
a  height  ahove  the  town  stands  the  handsome  Churchy  built  in 
1839  on  the  site  of  an  older  church  said  to  have  been  founded  In 
836,  with  a  tower  of  the  15th  cent. ;  it  contains  some  stained  glass, 
representing  the  Madonna  enthroned,  designed  by  Hess.  Welters- 
burg,  on  the  hill  V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Vallendar,  commands  a  beau- 
tiful view  of  the  Rhine  with  its  islands  and  its  banks  from  An- 
dern&ch  to  Coblenz.  About  halfway  up  the  hill  is  a  summer-house 
of  the  Vallendar  Casino,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  on  intro- 
duction by  a  member. 

In  the  valley  at  the  back  of  Vallendar  rise  O/2  M.)  the  Romanesque 
towers  of  the  nunnery  of  ScMfnstatt^  which  was  abandoned  in  1667,  and 
afterwards  destroyed  by  the  Swedes.  The  nave  of  the  church  has  en- 
tirely disappeared.  Adjoining  it  is  a  cloth-factory.  The  road  ascends  to 
Hdhr  (see  above). 

A  little  farther  on,  a  picturesque  view  is  obtained  of  Coblenz 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Moselle.  The  station  at  Ehreribreitstein 
(p.  94)  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  precipitous  rock  on  which  the  fortress 
is  situated. 

12.  Bonn. 

Hotels  (Plan,  p.  78).  *Goldneb  Stern  (PI.  a ;  B,  C,  4),  in  the  market- 
place', •EoTAL  Hotel  (PI.  b;  A,  4),  Coblenzer-Str.  11,  with  a  garden  on  the 
Rhine ;  these  two  of  the  first  class,  with  corresponding  charges.  —  Bellevue 
(PI.  c;  A.  4),  Coblenzer-Str.  35,  K.  2-3  m.,  B.  1  m.j  *Hotel  Klet  (PI.  d; 
B.  5),  CJoblenier-Str.  1,  R.,  L.,  A  B.  872,  D.  2  m.  50,  also  a  restaurant  and 
hotel  garni*,  these  last  two  also  have  gardens  on  the  Rhine:  ^Rhbisbok 
(PI.  e;  B,  5),  on  the  Rhine,  R.  lV2-2V2m.,  A.  60,  D.  2  m.  50  p/.  —  HdxEL 
Gentbal  (PI.  h^  B,  4),  Munster-Platz  2,  R.  2  m.;  B.  80  pf.:  Ebonpbinz,  op- 
posite the  new  station^  ''Rhbinischeb  Hof  (PI.  f;  C,  4)  and  ''Schwan 
(PI.  g),  both  in  the  Stern-Strasse ,  near  the  market,  are  good  second- 
class  inns;  Hotel  Eintbaoht,  Sandkaul  15,  also  a  'pen8ion\  —  Hotels 
Oamis  and  Pensions.  Hotel  et  Pension  du  Kobo,  Quantius-Str.  1,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Poppelsdorfer  AUee,  near  the  station*,  Pension  Luhbmann, 
Kvangelische-Kirch-Str.  3;  Kaiseb,  Poppelsdorfer  Allee  40;  Pension  An- 
0LAI8E,  Endenicher  Allee  2;  Gbotbn,  Erste  Fahrgasse  2;  Zilles,  Cobleneer- 
Str.  27,  at  the  Hofgarten;  Rees,  Venusberger  Weg. 

Restaurants.  ^Perrtn,  Wenzelgasse  50;  Clouthy  Sandkaul  13;  Breuer^ 
Markt  13.  —  Oafe.  Hdtel  Kley^  see  above.  —  Beer :  You^  Wenzelgasse  54, 
also  oyster-rooms ;  Hamburger  Restaurant^  Kaiserhalle,  both  at  the  station ; 
Beethovenhalle^  Vierecks-Platz ;  -4d<oi'/,  Miinster-Platz ;  Husemann^  Remlgius- 
Str. ;  Eagemanny  Mauspfad.  —  Confectioner.  *Bcharrenbroichy  Markt  5. 


Vnwersity,  BONN.  12.  Route.     75 

H«wip*pen  and  r«sUuraiit  in  the  Lete-  tmd  Erhotungs-OeHttsehc^ft^ 
opposite  the  Uniyenity ;  the  Academic  Beading-Room  contains  upwards  of 
duo  newspapers  and  periodicals;  visitors  may  be  introduced  to  either  of 
these  by  a  member. 

Bathing  Eatahlishmenta  on  the  Rhine,  above  the  town,  with  swim- 
ming (40  pf.)  and  warm  baths.  There  are  also  warm-baths  at  the  Bonner 
Badeanstalt,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Baumachuler  Allee. 

Oabs.  Per  drive  in  the  town,  1-2  pers.  60  pf.,  each  additional  pers. 
25  pfy^l'>ox  10  pf.  i  per  »/»  hr.  50  pf.,  with  two  horses  66  pf.  To  PoppeU- 
dorf  lb  pf.,  with  two  horses  1  m.,  each  pers.  beyond  two,  25  pf.  more; 
to  Oodetiberg  21/2  or  3  m.,  each  pers.  more  than  two,  50  pf. 

Foat  and  Teleframh  Of&ee  (PI.  21),  Hiinster-Plats. 

English  Ohoreh  Bervioe  in  the  University  Church  at  11  a.m.  and  6  p.m. 
(4  p.m.  in  winter) ;  chaplain,  Rev.  W.  H.  Webeter. 

Chief  Attraotions.  Exterior  of  the  Miinster  (p.  77))  Monument  of  Beet- 
hoven (p.  77) ;  view  from  the  Alte  Zoll  (p.  77) ;  walk  to  Poppelsdorf  (p.  77). 

Bonn,  a  town  with  35,996  inhab. ,  the  seat  of  a  University 
fonnded  in  1818  and  attended  by  aboat  1300  students,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  at  the  N.  entrance  to  the 
narrower  and  more  picturesque  part  of  the  valley  of  the  river.  It 
has  recently  become  a  very  prosperous  place,  and  a  favourite  resi- 
dence of  English  and  other  visitors.  The  pleasant  villas  with  their 
gardens  on  the  Rhine,  situated  on  the  Goblenzer-Strasse  above  the 
town,  the  shady  promenades  of  the  Hofgarten,  the  Poppelsdorf er 
Allee,  and  the  view  from  the  Alte  Zoll,  all  contribute  to  render  the 
town  very  attractive,  while  the  line  towers  of  the  Munster  and  the 
new  Protestant  church  also  enhance  the  general  effect.  Communi- 
cation with  the  village  of  Beuel  (1200  inh&b.),  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Rhine,  is  maintained  by  means  of  a  ferry-boat  and  steamers. 

Bonn,  the  Bonna,  or  Caetra  Bonneneia  of  the  Romans,  frequently 
mentioned  by  Tacitus,  and  probably  founded  by  Drusus,  was  one  of  the  first 
Roman  fortresses  on  the  Rhine,  and  the  headquarters  of  several  legions. 
The  Roman  Castrum^  which  was  very  extensive,  stood  near  the  end  of  the 
modem  Steinweg  or  Heerweg,  at  the  WicheUhofy  to  the  y.  of  the  town ,  as 
is  proved  by  excavations  made  in  1818  and  by  recent  investigations.  In 
the  middle  ages  Bonn  was  a  place  of  little  importance  until  1267,  when 
the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  transferred  his  residence  and  seat  of  govern- 
ment hither  (comp.  p.  27).  The  German  kings,  Frederick  of  Austria 
(1314)  and  Charles  IV.  (1346),  were  crowned  in  the  Munster. 

The  Protestant  tendencies  of  Hermann  of  Wied  and  Gebhard  of 
Waldbnrg,  Archbishops  of  Cologne  in  the  16th  cent,  principally  mani- 
fested by  the  latter  in  his  marriage  with  the  nun  Agnes  of  Mansfeld,  for 
which  he  was  declared  an  apostate  and  banished  from  his  Electorate,  brought 
Bonn  into  great  trouble.  In  the  Dutch  War  of  Independence,  in  the 
Thirty  Years^  War,  and  especially  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  Bonn 
suffered  repeatedly  from  sieges.  That  of  1689  was  conducted  by  Elector 
Frederick  III.  of  Brandenburg  (King  Frederick  I.)  at  the  head  of  the  Impe- 
rial and  allied  troops.  Marlborough  and  other  celebrated  generals  took 
part  about  the  same  time  in  the  operations  against  the  town.  The  walls 
were  levelled  in  1717,  in  accordance  with  the  Peace  of  Rastatt.  —  Under 
the  Electors  of  the  18th  cent.  Bonn  was  very  prosperous,  and  one  of 
them  in  1777  founded  an  Academy,  elevated  to  a  University  seven  years 
later  by  Emperor  Joseph  II.  On  7th  Oct.,  1794,  the  French  marched  into 
the  town,  and  in  1797  the  university  was  closed. 

Under  the  French  Bonn  suffered  much ,  and  its  population  decreased 
from  95(X)  to  7500,  but  since  its  recovery  by  the  Prussians  in  1815  and  the 
foundation  of  the  Friedrich-Wilhelm  University  it  has  gradually  revived. 


76     Route  /2.  BONN.  Vntveraity, 

The  Railway'Station  (PI.  G,  3)  was  built  in  1883-85  after  plans 
by  Viereck  and  linger. 

The  Knabengarten-Strasse  leads  direct  from  the  station  to  the 
MOnster-Platz  (PI.  C,  3),  which  is  embellished  with  a  bronze 
*Statne  of  Beethoven  (PI.  4),  executed  by  Hdhnel  of  Dresden  and 
inaugurated  in  presence  of  Queen  Victoria  in  1845.  The  celebrated 
composer  (1770-1827)  was  born  in  the  Bonngasse,  No.  20  (PI.  5 ; 
C,  4).  His  father  was  a  tenor-singer,  and  his  grandfather  (a  native 
of  Antwerp)  band-master  to  the  Elector.  No.  7  Rheingasse,  to  which 
Beethoven's  parents  removed  after  his  birth,  also  bears  an  inscription. 

The  *MiiiiBteT  (PI.  12 ;  B,  3),  a  cruciform  church  with  two  choirs, 
four  small  towers,  and  a  lofty  octagonal  principal  tower  over  the  cross, 
is  an  injiposing  and  picturesque  example  of  the  late-Romanesque 
style.  It  was  formerly  an  archdeanery  of  St.  Gasslus  and  St.  Flor- 
entius ,  and ,  like  many  Rhenish  churches ,  traces  its  foundation 
to  Constantino.  The  W.  part  of  the  crypt  and  the  part  of  the 
church  above  it  date,  however,  from  the  11th,  the  end  of  the  choir 
from  the  middle  of  the  12th,  and  the  nave,  transept,  and  chief 
tower  from  the  13th  century.  The  building  is  undergoing  restoration . 

The  Interior  is  remarkable  for  its  handsome  proportions.  It  contains 
a  bronze  statue  of  St.  Helena,  the  mother  of  Constantine,  in  the  manner- 
ist style,  cast  at  Rome  in  1756;  two  bas-reliefs  representing  the  Nativity 
and  Baptism  of  Christ  over  the  altars  in  the  nave  and  transept  to  the 
right,  well -executed  Italian  works  of  the  17th  or  18th  century.  Near 
the  chief  portal  is  the  Sarcophagus  of  Archbishop  Engelbert  von  Falken- 
burg  (d.  1274).     The  interesting  old  Crppt  was  recently  restored. 

The  ancient  Chapter  House  adjoining  the  church  is  now  the  par- 
sonage. Cloisters^  with  piUars  possessing  beautiful  capitals,  of  the 
12th  century.  The  Munstersehule ,  built  in  the  Romanesque  style 
in  1885-86,  was  designed  by  Lemcke. 

The  central  point  of  the  business  of  the  town  is  the  triangular 
Market  Place  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  to  which  the  principal  streets  of  the 
old  town  converge.  In  the  centre  of  it  rises  a  Fountain  Column, 
erected  by  the  citizens  in  1777  in  honour  of  the  last  but  one 
of  the  Electors  of  Cologne.  The  Rathhcnis,  with  its  lofty  flight  of 
steps,  was  completed  in  1782.  —  The  Gothic  Minoritenkirche  (PI. 
14;  0,  4),  with  cloisters  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent., 
the  Jesuiterikirche  (PI.  13 ;  0,  4 ;  Old  Catholic),  and  the  Stiftskirche 
(PL  16;  D,  4),  are  unattractive. 

The  UniverBity  Buildings  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  originally  the  electoral 
Palace,  erected  in  1717-1730,  and  partly  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in 
1777,  occupy  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  and  are  the  most  exten- 
sive in  Germany  (600  yds.  in  length).  They  are  well  fitted  up  and 
contain  the  Lecture  Rooms  (with  the  exception  of  the  agricul- 
tural and  most  of  the  medical),  the  Library  (PI.  6)  of  250,000  vols., 
adorned  with  busts  of  Niebuhr,  Schlegel,  Arndt,  etc. ,  a  valuable 
Collection  of  Coins  (4000  Greek  and  Roman  and  400  mediaBval). 
a  Museum  of  Antiquities  (see  below) ,  and  a  Physical  Cabinet,  The 
Aula  or  hall  (keys  kept  by  the  head-porter,  under  the  arcades 


Munster,  BONN.  12.  Route.     77 

to  the  left;  75 pf.)  is  adorned  with  frescoes  emblematical  of  the 
four  faculties,  executed  by  Cornelius's  pupils,  Foister,  Gotzenber- 
ger,  and  Hermann.  The  'theology'  was  begun  by  Cornelius  himself 
in  1824.  The  old  chapel  of  the  Electoral  palace  is  now  a  Protestant 
place  of  worship  (Church  of  England  service,  see  p.  75). 

The  *Kaaeam  of  Antiquitiea  (custodian  in  the  Fransiskaner-Str.,  see 
above ;  catalogue  2  m.)  is  an  interesting  collection  of  monuments  and  other 
objects,  mainly  of  the  Roman  period,  found  in  the  Rhenish  province  and 
Westphalia,  some  of  them  being  from  the  excavations  at  the  Wichelshof 
(p.  58).  The  most  interesting  are  the  votive  tablets  to  Mercuritu  Arvemus 
(Kos.  19^20),  to  HercuU*  Saxanut  (21-24),  to  the  Germano-Celtic  maternal 
deities  (28-^) ,  and  to  the  Teutonic  goddesses  Alatdvia  (63)  and  Hludana 
(64,  67)  \  Votive  stone  of  a  legate ,  with  a  metrical  account  of  his  official 
career  \  60-70.  Mithras  Reliefs  \  *82.  Tomb-relief  of  a  centurion  and  his  two 
freedmen,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  the  Teutoburdui  Forest  Chellum  Va- 
rianuni');  98.  Relief  of  a  Roman  standard-bearer ;  225.  Relief  of  the  flight 
of  Iphigeneia^  Fragments  of  a  Roman  wall  with  frescoes  of  the  battles  of 
the  Amazons  \  204.  Mosaic  portrait  of  an  Abbot  of  Laach ;  smaller  Roman 
and  Franconian  antiquities. 

Passing  through  the  Coblenzer-Thor,  which  intersects  the  £. 
wing  of  the  university  (PI.  B,  4),  and  has  its  facade  adorned  ex- 
ternally with  a  figure  of  the  Archangel  Michael,  we  reach  the  newest 
quarter  of  the  town,  called  the  CoBLBNZEB-STaASSB,  which  skirts  the 
E.  side  of  the  Hofgarten  (PI.  A,  B,  4)  with  its  fine  old  avenues, 
and  consists  of  hotels,  villas  surrounded  by  gardens,  and  other  hand- 
some buildings.  Next  the  Royal  Hotel,  No.  9  in  this  street  is  the 
Yills  Obemier,  containing  the  'municipal  museum'  (adm.  daily 
11-1,  60  pf. ;  Sun.  free),  bequeathed  by  Prof.  Obernier  (d.  1882). 
The  collection  includes  a  number  of  modern  pictures  and  a  few 
sculptures.  Fine  view  of  the  Rhine  and  Siebengebirge.  —  No.  75 
Fahrgasse,  the  second  cross-street  to  the  left,  was  the  residence  of 
the  poet  Arndt,  who  died  here  in  1860  (now  a  school). 

In  the  centre  of  the  Hofgarten  rises  the  new  Academic  Moseimi 
of  Art  (PI.  A,  4),  open  free  on  Mon.,  Wed.  and  Frid.  2-4,  at  other 
times,  fee  (custodian  in  the  central  block,  next  the  Coblenzer-Str.). 
The  museum  contains  casts,  reliefs,  etc.,  some  of  them  originals, 
and  Greek  vases  and  terracottas.  Catalogue  by  Prof.  R.  KekuM, 
1  m.  50  pf.  —  On  the  W.  side  of  the  garden  rises  the  Protestant 
Church  (PI.  18),  a  Gothic  edifice  of  brick,  erected  by  Dieckhof  in 
1866-71,  with  a  lofty  tower.  —  The  modern-Gothic  Herz-Jem- 
Kirche(Pl.  17 ;  A,  4) contains  good  stained  glass,  designed  by  Steinle. 

Close  to  the  Coblenz  Gate  is  the  entrance  to  the  Alte  Zoll 
(PI.  1),  an  old  bastion  on  the  bank  of  the  Rhine,  commanding  a 
fine  ♦View  of  the  river  and  its  opposite  bank,  including  Beuel, 
Bensberg,  Siegburg,  and  the  Seven  Mts.  In  the  centre  is  a  Mon- 
ument (PI.  3;  B,  5)  to  the  poet  Ernst  Moritz  Arndt  (1769-1860), 
in  bronze.  The  figure  leans  with  the  left  hand  on  a  trunk  of  oak, 
whilst  the  right  points  towards  the  Rhine.  The  two  French  guns 
here,  captured  in  the  late  war,  were  presented  by  Emp.  WUliam. 
An  inclined  plane  descends  from  the  Alte  Zoll  to  the  Rhine. 

The  Toppelfldorfer  Allee  (PI.  A,  2),  the  principal  promenade  of 


78     Route.  12,  BONN.  Kreutherg. 

the  town,  a  quadruple  avenue  of  beautiful  horse-chestnuts,  1/2  M. 
long,  and  flanked  with  handsome  villas  and  gardens,  leads  from  the 
Kaiser-Platz,  adjoining  the  Hofgarten  and  the  University,  towards 
the  W.  to  the  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss.  At  the  end  next  the  town  it 
is  crossed  by  the  railway.  To  the  light  is  the  Railway  Station  (PI. 
B,  3).  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  a  little  back  from  the  avenue,  is  the 
handsome  Observatory  (PI.  23 ;  A,  2)  with  its  seven  turrets,  erected 
in  1839-46  under  the  superintendence  of  Prof.  Argelander  (d.  1875). 

The  collections  of  the  Frovinoial  Mogenm  are  at  present  ex- 
hibited in  No.  34  in  the  neighbouring  Baumschulen-Str.  (PI.  B.  2). 
They  consist  chiefly  of  antiquities  discovered  in  the  Rhine  province, 
but  include  also  a  few  mediaeval  and  modern  objects  of  interest. 
Occasionally  the  museum  is  open  only  to  archaeologists. 

Roman  stone-monnments.  Objects  found  in  Roman  and  Franconian 
tombs  at  Andernach  and  Meckenheim ;  large  collection  of  black  Franconian 
goblets  with  inscriptions  *,  gold  ornaments  from  Waldalgesbeim  (in  an  iron 
casket  of  the  15th  cent.) ;  fine  enamels  and  engraved  glass  \  valuable  collec- 
tion of  Roman  glass;  a  Vcu  diatretum;  Etruscan  bronze  vessels,  clasps, 
keys,  etc.    Winged  altar-piece  by  Meister  Wilhelm  of  Cologne. 

The  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss  (PI.  A,  1) ,  formerly  a  residence  of 
the  Electors,  erected  in  1715-46,  but  presented  to  the  university 
in  1818,  now  contains  the  *  Natural  History  Collections, 

The  collection  of  minerals  and  fossils,  originated  by  the  indefatigable 
Prof.  Koggerath  and  arranged  by  Prof.  G.  vom  R«th,  is  particularly  worthy 
of  inspection,  as  the  specimens  illustrate  the  geology  of  the  Seven  Hts. 
R.  13)  and  Eifel  (R.  26).  It  was  enriched  in  1876  by  the  purchase  (for 
[44,000  m.)  of  the  collection  of  Dr.  Krantz.  The  ^Grottensaal\  fitted  up 
in  the  time  of  the  Electors,  contains  mining-models  and  also  reliefs  of  the 
Rhine,  Seven  Mts.,  &c.  Custodian's  lodge  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  (fee 
75  pf.,  for  a  party  11/2-2  m.). 

The  Botanical  Garden  adjoining  the  palace  (open  Tues.  and 
Frid.  3-7;  at  other  times  fee  as  above)  is  well  kept  and  contains  a 
palm-house  and  extensive  hot-houses. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss  rises  the  Chemical 
Laboratory  (PI.  A,  1),  a  palatial  building,  designed  by  the  architect 
Dieckhoff  and  the  Berlin  chemist  Hofmann^  one  of  the  most  exten- 
sive and  best  organised  in  the  world,  completed  in  1868.  — 
Behind  the  laboratory  is  the  handsome  Anatomy  Building  (PI.  2 ; 
A,  B,  1),  designed  by  Neumann^  and  completed  in  1872.  In  the 
vicinity  are  the  Physiological  Institute^  and  the  extensive  buildings 
of  the  Agricultural  Academy,  comprising  lecture-rooms,  collections, 
a  laboratory,  etc.  WesseVs  Porcelain  and  Stoneware  Factory^  employ- 
ing 1000  workmen ,  dates  its  origin  from  a  porcelain  factory  estab- 
lished by  the  £lector  Clemens  August  in  1756. 

Above  Poppelsdorf,  »/«  M.  from  the  Schloss,  rises  the  ^Krevtxberg 
(400  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  crowned  with  a  conspicuous  white  church. 
It  originally  belonged  to  a  monastery  erected  by  Elector  Ferdinand  of 
Bavaria  in  1627,  and  contains  the  ''Holy  8tepf  of  Italian  marble  (in  the 
chapel  behind  the  altar),  constructed  about  1750.  These  steps,  28  in 
number,  are  an  imitation  of  the  8cala  Santa  at  the  Lateran,  and  must  be 
ascended  only  on  the  knees.    Beautiful  view  from  the  tower. 

XesMnieh,  a  village  with  pleasant  country-houses,  about  IVsM.  from 


i! 


'^^vftpaph  ■  Ahut^jltf 


IrlGOoO        h         ■"'         T         ^""^     T*  yp^-^j.^^^^^S^!T7^ffS^^r^^^S,j 


SEVEN  MOUNTAINS.  13.  Route.    79 

Bonn,  is  reached  by  a  road  diverging  from  tbc  middle  of  the  Poppelsdorf 
Avenue  to  the  left.  On  the  slope  of  the  Vorgebirge  (p.  70),  immediately 
above  it,  rises  the  Rotenhurg^  a  small  chateau  with  pretty  grounds.  The 
margin  of  the  Kenenicher  Bchluchi  (Casselsruhe),  a  gorge  higher  up,  com- 
mands a  charming  *View  of  Godesberg,  the  Seven  Hts.,  etc.  Beyond  the 
gorge  are  the  drill-ground  and  rifle-ranges  of  the  Bonn  garrison.  Another 
favourite  point  of  view  is  the  DoUendor/er  HOhe,  a  [few  minutes'  walk 
farther  in  the  direction  of  Godesberg,  and  about  V/t  M.  from  Bonn.  Foot- 
paths lead  along  the  lower  hills  to  Godesberg  (p.  69).  Another  pleasant 
walk  may  be  taken  to  Sndenich,  where  there  is  an  asylum  for  the  insane, 
situated  Vs  M.  to  the  W.  of  Poppelsdorf. 

The  ♦Cemetery  (PI.  D,  %  3),  y^M.  from  the  Sternthor,  is  the 
resting-place  of  many  eminent  men,  chiefly  professors  at  the  uni- 
versity, and  is  also  worthy  of  a  visit  on  account  of  its  handsome 
monuments,  including  one  In  memory  of  the  campaign  of  1870-71 
(in  hronze). 

By  the  wall  on  the  right,  Monument  of  Niehuhr  (d.  1831),  erected  by 
Fred.  William  IV.  to  his  'teacher  and  friend'  \  in  front  a  relief  in  marble 
by  Ranch,  representing  Niebuhr  and  his  wife,  being  a  copy  of  an  ancient 
Roman  tomb-relief  preserved  in  the  hall  of  the  busts  at  the  Vatican.  Farther 
along  the  same  walk,  on  the  right,  the  monuments  of  Emgt  von  Schiller 
(d.  1841),  the  second  son,  and  Charlotte  von  Lengefeld  (d.  1826),  widow  of 
the  poet.  Near  the  circular  space  is  the  monument  of  the  brothers  Boif- 
«er^e,  the  famous  connoisseurs  of  art  (Melchior  d.  1851,  Sulpice  d.  1854), 
a  relief  in  marble  with  a  head  of  Christ,  by  Ranch.  The  "Chapel  in  the 
middle  of  the  cemetery,  a  beautiful  Romanesque  structure,  built  at  Ra- 
mersdorf  (p.  58)  about  the  year  1200,  was  transferred  thence  to  its  present 
site  in  1847.  It  contains  stained  glass  presented  by  the  Boisser^es.  Kear 
the  chapel  are  the  graves  of  Schumann  (d.  1856),  the  composer,  vnth  a 
'^Monument  by  Donndorf,  erected  in  1880,  of  Argelander  (d.  18*5),  the  astro- 
nomer, and  Karl  Simrock  (d.  1876),  the  poet.  The  monument  of  the  poet 
Amdt  (d.  1860),  is  close  to  the  £.  wall  of  the  cemetery.  Beside  it  is  that 
of  Baron  Bunsen  (d.  1860),  with  a  marble  medallion. 

To  the  N.  of  the  town,  and  extending  from  the  Rhine  to  the 
Koln-Thor,  near  which  is  the  large  Hospital  of  St.  John  (PL  10 ; 
D,  5),  is  the  new  UniveiBity  Clinical  Institute  (PI.  D,  5),  with 
the  Pathological  Institute,  huilt  at  a  cost  of  150,0002.,  on  an  eleva- 
ted enclosed  site.  —  Outside  the  Koln-Thor  is  the  new  Provincial 
Lunatic  Asylum  and  (IV2  ^0  ^^^  ^^^  Cemetery, 

13.   The  Seven  MoontailLB  (SiehengeUrge). 

One  day  suffices  to  explore  the  most  interesting  points  in  this  district, 
unless  the  visit  be  for  geological  purposes.  Kdnigswinter  (a  station  on  the 
Right  Rhenish  railway,  and  connected  through  Mehlem,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  with  the  Left  Rhenish  Railway;  also  a  steamboat -station  and  a 
station  on  the  Zahnradbahn  to  the  top  of  the  Drachenfels)  is  the  usual 
starting-point,  but  Sonne/  or  Dollendorf,  stations  on  the  Right  Rhenish 
line,  may  in  some  cases  be  more  convenient.  The  Venchdnerungsverein  fur 
das  Siebengebirge,  a  society  founded  in  1873,  with  its  headquarters  at  Bonn, 
has  done  much  towards  facilitating  access  to  the  fine  scenery  of  this  district 
by  the  construction  of  paths  and  the  erection  of  finger-posts  and  benches. 

Walkera  from  K&nigswinier  to  the  Drachenfels  take  V4  ^^-  \  thence  to 
the  Qreat  Oelberg  l*/4  hr.  •,  and  to  Heisterbach  1 V4  hr.  more ;  back  to  KSnigs- 
winter  in  */«  hr.,  or  to  Nieder-Dollendorf  in  V«  ^r.  —  From  Honnef  to 
the  LGwenburg  IV4  hr.  \  thence  to  the  Oreat  Oelberg  IV4  hr.,  and  via  Heister- 
bach to  KOnigsteinter  as  above.  In  this  case  the  Drachenfels  is  ascended 
last,  from  Eonigswinter.  —  From  Nieder-Dollendorf  the  excursion  is  the 
same  as  the  first-mentioned,  but  in  the  reverse  direction. 


80     RouUl3.  KONIGSWINTER.  The  Seven 

Oarriagei,  Hones,  Donkey*,  and  Ouidei  at  Kdnigtteinter^  see  below; 
at  Horme/,  see  p.  72.  The  whole  tour  from  K&nigtwinUr  to  Heitterbaeh  and 
the  Margarethenhof  (hence  on  foot  to  the  Oelberg,  Vsl^'O)  *^<^  thence 
either  to  the  DrachenfeU  or  by  the  Liheenburger  Ho/  to  Honntf  may  now 
be  accomplished  by  carriage. 

The  heights  given  in  the  following  description  are  calculated  from  the 
level  of  the  sea;  the  approximate  height  above  the  Bhine  is  obtained  by 
subtracting  160  ft.  Geologists  who  understand  Oerman  should  purchase 
Dr.  ».  Btchtn't  'Geognostischer  Fiihrer  in  das  Siebengebirge\  with  map, 
7  m.,  sold  by  Cohen  at  Bonn. 

The  *Seyen  Mountains,  which  form  the  N.W.  termination  of  the 
Westerwald  district,  extend  3  M.  inland  from  the  Rhine,  and  from 
N.  to  S.  about  9  M.,  Konigswinter  being  the  central  point  on  the  W. 
They  consist  of  a  group  of  peaks,  cones,  and  long,  rounded  ridges, 
some  of  which  are  covered  with  forest  and  luxuriant  herbage.  They  are 
ail  of  volcanic  character  and  consist  partly  of  trachyte  (DraehenfelSy 
WolkerUmrg^  Lohrherg)^  and  partly  of  basalt ,  a  more  recent  forma- 
tion {Oelherg,  Nonnenstrombergj  Petersherg')^  while  the  Lowenhurg 
alone  is  of  dolerite.  These  seven  peaks,  from  which  the  mountains 
derive  their  name ,  are  seen  simultaneously  only  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Cologne ;  as  Bonn  is  approached,  the  Lowenburg  is  hidden 
by  the  Nonnenstromberg.  Besides  these  summits  there  are  many 
others,  such  as  the  conical  Hemmerickj  of  trachyte,  which  overtops 
the  lower  mountains  of  the  S.  side,  the  Ro$enau,  and  the  Sten&el- 
berg,  which  adjoins  the  Nonnenstromberg  on  the  S.  The  view  from 
the  DrachenfeU  is  the  most  picturesque,  that  from  the  OeUterg  the 
most  extensive. 

Konigswinter.  —  Hotels.  ^Bkblim  Hotel,  well  spoken  of;  *Edropban 
Hotkl;  both  opposite  the  pier,  and  claiming  to  be  of  the  first  class,  B., 
L.,  <fe  A.  3,  B.  1,  D.  3  m.;  "Hotel  Bisffel,  in  the  principal  street,  B.  and 
B.  2  m.  50.pf.  —  KoLNEB  Hof,  with  terrace  facing  the  river,  above  the  steam- 
boat-pier,'  B.  <feB.  2  m  80  pf.,  ^pens.'  5  m.,  well  spoken  of;  DdsssLDORFEK 
HoF,  on  the  Bhine,  lower  down  than  the  large  hotels,  well  spoken  of ; 
EisENBAHN  Hotel,  near  the  station.  —  Kirch't  Pension^  and  other  pensions 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  village. 

Wine  at  the  Winzer-Verem  or  Vintage- Club^  in  the  Kirch-Str.,  near 
the  Zahnradbahn,  at  the  ascent  to  the  Drachenfels,  wine  of  the  district 
90  pf.— 1  m.  80  pf.  per  bottle. 

Beer  in  the  groundfk>or  of  the  European  Hotel  (see  above) ;  BockJuUle, 
in  the  main  street;  WellingfMuSi  on  the  river. 

Cafi  and  Oonfeotioner :  Mertens^  in  the  main  street,  below  the  Boman 
Catholic  church. 

Zahnradbahn,  or  Rack  and  Pinion  Railtoapy  to  the  top  of  the  Drachen- 
fels, see  p.  81.  There  are  12-18  trains  daily,  with  accommodation  for  50-100 
passengers ;  extra  trips  by  previous  arrangement ;  fare  to  the  top  1  m..  down 
50  pf. ;  children  under  twelve  half-price.  The  ascent  takes  10-12  minutes. 
The  starting-point  is  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  little  more  than  1/4  V.  from 
the  station  of  the  Bhenish  railway  or  the  steamboat-quay  (comp.  pp.  71,  81). 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  for  1  pers.,  one-horse  60, 
two-horse  70  pf.,  each  pers.  additional  20  or  25  pf.,  luggage  25  pf. ;  to  the 
DrachenfeU  4  or  5V8  m.,  there  and  back  within  3  hrs.,  5V«  or  7Vs  ni. ;  Mar- 
garethenhof 5V«  or  7  m. ;  Heitterbach  3V«  or  5  m.,  there  and  back  5  or 
V/i  m. ;  Lifwenburg  via  Heisterbach  6  or  8 ,  by  the  new  road  5  or  6 V2, 
there  and  back  V/2,  10,  6V2,  or  8  m. ;  Honnef  iV*  or  2V2  m.,  there  and 
back  within  3  hrs.  3  or  4  m. ;  drive  through  the  Seven  Mts.  via  Heister- 
bach, Margarethenhof,  and  Honnef  (5  hrs.),  with  two  horses,  11  m. 

Donkeys  and  Horaes.    To  the  Drachenfels  by  the  new  road,  donkey 


Mountains,  KONIGSWINTER.  13.  Route.     81 

l»/2,  horse  IV*  m.,  by  the  old  road  IV4  or  !»/«  m-  \  Wolkehburg  and  Drachen- 
/els  2  or  21/2  m.  •,  DrachefiftU^  Wolktnburg^  and  Birsehberff  2ys  or  3  m.  ( 
ffeisterbach  1 V2  or  2  m.  j  LiHeenburg  2Vs  or  3  m.;  Oelbtrg  2y%  or  3  m.; 
ijvhole  dav  5  or  6  m.',  after  sunset  1/2  or  1  m.  extra  in  all  cases. 

Small  Boats  to  Bolandseck,  21/2  m. ;  to  Plittersdorf,  2  m. 

Konigswinter  (165  ft.),  a  thriying  little  modern  town  with  3049 
inh&b.,  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  yisit  to  the  Se^en  Moantains, 
at  the  foot  of  which  it  lies.  It  is  oonseqnently  much  thronged  by 
tourists  in  summer.  It  possesses  extensive  stone-cntting  yards,  which 
prepared  much  of  the  stone  used  in  building  Cologne  Cathedral. 
The  railway-station  lies  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town ,  and  beyond 
its  precincts.  A  pleasant  walk  extends  along  the  bank  of  the  Rhine. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  is  a  Monument  erected  in  commem- 
oration of  the  events  of  1870-71. 

Ascent  of  ths  Dkachbnfbi.8  (carriages  in  waiting  at  the  sta- 
tion). The  well-constructed  new  road  crosses  the  railway  and  coin- 
cides fox  some  distance  with  that  to  the  Margarethenhof ;  it  then 
turns  to  the  right,  skirts  the  Hiraekberg  (p.  86;  to  the  left  the  new 
road  to  the  Oelberg,  p.  83),  and  ascends  in  a  curve  to  the  terrace. 
Walkers  turn  to  the  left  on  the  platform  at  the  station  (finger-post), 
follow  the  direction  of  the  railway,  and  cross  the  road ;  after  5  min. 
the  path  joins  that  from  the  Rhine  and  reachesljthe  station  of  the 
mountain-railway  (see  below).  —  Other  pleasant  paths  ascend  by  the 
Saurenherg  or  through  the  pretty  NaehtigaUenthal  y  quitting  the 
carriage-road  where  it  turns  to  the  left,  200  paces  beyond  the  rail- 
way. The  way  through  the  NaehtigaUenthal  is  that  to  the  left; 
after  5  min.  it  crosses  a  bridge  to  the  right.  At  the  Kuckstein,  on 
the  top  of  the  hill,  it  unites  with  the  Saurenberg  path. 

The  traveller  arriving  by  Steamboat  passes  between  the  two 
chief  hotels  and  to  the  left  of  the  Church  and  District  Courts  crosses 
the  railway,  and  soon  reaches  the  station  of  the  new  Zahnradbahn, 
or  cog-wheel  railway,  and  the  donkey-station  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
Walkers  follow  the  bridle-path  on  the  side  of  the  rock  next  to  the 
Rhine,  leading  in  3/4  hr. ,  partly  through  wood,  to  the  terrace  near 
the  top.  Several  cabarets  by  the  wayside :  (10  min.)  Zur  Sehonen 
Aussicht,  and  beyond  it  Zum  KucksUin  (620  ft.),  a  little  below  which 
our  path  is  joined  by  that  over  the  Saurenberg,  and  a  little  above 
by  that  through  the  NaehtigaUenthal  (recommended  to  those  return- 
ing to  the  railway-station).  The  path  then  skirts  the  embankment 
of  the  Zahnradbahn,  passes  the  handsome  Gothic  chateau  of  *Dra- 
chehburg,  the  property  of  Baron  von  Sarter,  built  in  1883,  and  ela- 
borately decorated  within  with  frescoes  and  stained-glass,  and  soon 
after  reaches  the  top. 

The  easiest  mode  of  ascending  the  Drachenfels,  however,  is  now 
afforded  by  the  Mountain  Railway,  constructed  on  the  same  sy- 
stem as  that  at  the  Rigi  and  opened  in  1883  (fares,  see  p.  80).  It 
ascends  the  hill  in  an  almost  straight  line  and  approaches  the  top, 
like  the  road,  on  the  side  farthest  from  the  Rhine.  Its  length  is 
Babdbkxk's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  6 


82     BouU  13.  DRACUENFELS.  The  Seven 

1662  yds.  and  its  rise  740  ft. ;  the  steepest  gradient  is  1:5.  About 
halfway  up  is  a  Tladuct  which  affords  a  good  view  of  the  chateau  of 
Drachenburg. 

The  Terrace  (968  ft.;  nnn,  R.  2-2V2m.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  3-4m.,  also 
^pension'),  a  levelled  rocky  plateau  about  100  ft.  below  the  sum- 
mit, is  embellished  with  a  Gothic  Obelisk  commemorating  the  pat- 
riotic spirit  of  the  Rhinelanders  in  the  years  1813-15,  designed  by 
Zwirner  and  erected  in  1857.  From  the  veranda  of  the  inn  a  series 
of  steps  descends  tb  the  bridle-path  to  Rhondorf  p.  71). 

The  castle  of  fDraohenfeli  (1066  ft.),  or  'dragon's  rock',  908  ft. 
above  the  Rhine,  which  is  reached  in  a  few  minutes  from  the  plateau 
just  mentioned,  was  erected  by  Arnold ,  Archbishop  of  Cologne ,  at 
the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent. ,  bestowed  by  him  on  the  Gassius 
Monastery  at  Bonn  in  1149,  and  held  as  a  fief  from  the  latter  by  the 
counts  of  the  -castle.  Henry,  Count  of  Drachenfels  (d.  1348),  fur- 
nished the  chapter  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne  with  the  stone  for  its 
construction  from  a  quarry  which  still  bears  the  name  of  Dombrueh, 
or  cathedra^  quarry.  The  wine  yielded  by  the  vineyards  on  its  slopes 
is  known  as  Drachcnblut ,  or  dragon's  blood.  In  the  Thirty  Years' 
War  the  halfr-ruined  castle  was  occupied  by  the  Swedes ,  but  was 
besieged  and  taken  from  them  by  Duke  Ferdinand  of  Bavaria, 
Elector  of  Cologne,  who  completed  its  destruction. 

The  Cavern  among  the  vineyards ,  visible  from  the  Rhine  about 
half-way  up  the  hill ,  is  said  once  to  have  housed  the  dragon ,  slain 
by  Siegfried,  the  hero  from  the  Low  Countries,  who,  having  bathed 
himself  in  its  blood,  became  invulnerable. 

*yiEw.  The  summit  commands  one  of  the  noblest  prospects  on 
the  Rhine ;  to  the  E.  are  seen  several  of  the  seven  peaks ,  S.E.  the 
basaltic  heights  behind  Hon nef,  among  them  theMinderberg(p.62), 
and  the  Hemmerich(p.  80),  sloping  down  to  the  Rhine.  Immediate- 
ly below  lie  Rhondorf,  Honnef,  Rheinbreitbach,  Unkel,  and  Erpel ; 
on  the  left  bank  Remagen  and  the  Gothic  church  on  the  ApoUinaris- 
berg ,  in  the  background  the  heights  of  the  Eifel  with  the  ruin  of 
Olbriick  (p.  92) ,  in  the  vicinity  Oberwinter,  the  islands  of  Grafen- 
werth  and  Nonnenwerth,  and  the  arched  ruin  of  Rolandseok.  Farther 
to  the  right  the  Kreuzberg,  Bonn,  and  even  Cologne  are  visible. 

^The  castled  crag  of  Drachenfels 
Frowns  o'er  the  wide  and  winding  Rhine, 
Whose  breast  of  waters  broadly  swells 
Between  the  banks  which  bear  the  vine*, 
And  hills  all  rich  with  blossomed  trees, 
And  fields  which  promise  com  and  wine 
And  scatter'^d  cities  crowning  these, 
Whose  far  white  walls  along  them  shine, 
Have  strewM  a  scene  which  I  should  see 
With  double  joy  wert  thou  with  me." 

Sifron  ('Childe  Harold'). 
From  tub  Dbachenfels  to  the  Great  Oblbero  (1^/4  hr.).  The 
'^ew  carriage-road,  which  affords  a  series  of  charming  views,  di- 


Mountains.  U£1ST£11BACU.  13.  Route.     83 

verges  from  the  DrachenfeU  road  in  the  saddle  between  the  Wolken- 
burg  and  the  Hirschberg  (^594  ft. ;  see  p.  85),  about  i  M.  from  the 
Drachenfels,  and  then  leads  in  windings  by  iheSchaUenbergy  Qeis- 
berg,  and  Lohrberg  to  the  Margcurethenhof  (see  below).  The  foot- 
path across  the  Wolkenburg,  Indicated  by  a  finger-post  at  the  second 
bend  of  the  road,  is  not  at  present  aYailable,  as  notices  have  been 
put  up  forbidding  access  to  the  quarries.  The  ancient  stronghold 
on  the  Wolkenburg  (1075  ft.)  has  long  since  been  demolished  to 
make  way  for  the  extensive  quarries  of  trachyte  which  have  been 
worked  here  for  centuries. 

The  Margarethenhof  (iO^Q  ft.)  is  a  good  inn  on  the  highest  part 
of  the  road  from  Konigswinter  to  Ittenbach,  at  the  foot  of  the  cone 
of  the  Oelberg.  On  a  cross  near  the  inn  is  a  relief  of  St.  Margaretha 
and  the  dragon. 

The  Road  to  KOnigstoinUr  (4Vs  M.)  just  mentioned  leads  through  the 
valley  of  the  MitUlbach.  About  half-way,  two  broad  paths  diverge  to 
the  left  to  the  qaarries  of  the  Ofenkaulen  -  Berg^  which  yield  a  trachyte 
conglomerate  known  as  oven-stone. 

Just  beyond  the  Margarethenhof  is  a  stone  guide-post,  indicat- 
ing the  path  to  the  top  of  the  Oelberg,  which  leads  between  the 
two  carriage-roads.  Farther  on  the  path  follows  the  road,  which  leads 
to  the  basalt  quarries  (see  below),  for  some  distance,  and  then  diverges 
again  to  the  left.   The  top  of  the  Oelberg  is  reached  in  ^2  ^^* 

The  ^Great  Oelberg  (1522  ft. ;  Restaurant,  plain)  is  a  basaltic 
mountain  which  has  been  upheaved  through  the  trachyte.  The 
prospect  from  the  summit  is  the  most  extensive  on  the  lower  Rhine ; 
the  picturesque  foreground  differs  in  many  respects  from  that  seen 
from  the  Drachenfels.  The  whole  wooded  tract  of  the  Seven  Mts. 
lies  like  a  map  before  the  spectator;  the  Rhine  glitters  between  .the 
valleys  which  intersect  its  banks,  and  its  course  may  be  traced  as  far 
as  Cologne;  in  the  distance  to  the  S.  the  Taunus,  and  N.E.  the 
heights  near  Dilsseldorf.  The  basalt  quarries  on  the  £.  side  of  the 
Oelberg  are  now  the  most  important  in  the  Seven  Mountains,  and 
are  interesting  for  the  curious  displacement  of  the  basaltic  columns, 
which  are  visible  to  a  height  of  100  ft. 

In  descending,  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  top,  we  reach  a 
finger-post  on  the  path  by  which  we  ascended,  indicating  the  way 
to  Konigswinter  and  Heisterbach.  After.  10  min.  this  path  joins 
the  Heisterbach  carriage-road,  from  which,  farther  on,  the  foot- 
paths to  Konigswinter  and  the  Petersberg  diverge  to  the  left,  and 
one  to  Heisterbach  to  the  right.  To  the  left  rise  the  Bosenau 
(1063 ft.^  and  ^(mntnstrombtrg  (1105  ft.);  to  the  right,  the  Sten- 
zelbtrg  (^45  ft.),  with  extensive  trachyte  quarries. 

In  50  min.  after  leaving  the  top  of  the  Oelberg  we  reach  the 
^Heisterbacher  Mantel\  a  beautiful  valley  in  which  are  situated  the 
remains  of  the  venerable  Cistercian  Abbey  of  *Heiiterbaoh  (475  ft.). 
The  gate  still  bears  the  arms  of  the  abbey,  a  Htitter  (young  beech) 
and  a  Bach  (brook) ;  at  the  side  stand  St.  Benedict  and  St.  Bernard 

6* 


84    Boutel3.  LOWENBURG. 

as  guardians.  Of  the  magnificent  al)bey-ohurch,  erected  in  the  tran- 
sition-style in  1202-33,  the  end  of  the  choir,  with  its  slender  ba- 
saltic pillars,  is  alone  extant,  forming  a  singularly  picturesque  rain. 
The  abbey  itself  was  sold  and  almost  entirely  removed  in  the  year 
1806.  Some  of  the  finest  old  German  pictures  in  the  Pinakothek  at 
Munich  were  brought  from  Heisterbach.  The  abbey-lands  now  be- 
long to  Count  zur  Lippe  (refreshments  at  the  farm). 

The  road  passing  Heisterbach  terminates  at  2>o{^endor^  (railway- 
station,  p.  71),  IV2  M.  distant. 

Fbom  Hbisterbach  to  KdNioswiNTBB.  The  well-trodden  path 
leads  from  the  gate  of  the  abbey  to  the  left,  and  then  along  the  N.  and 
W.  slopes  of  the  Fetenberg  (1096  ft.),  on  the  summit  of  which  are 
a  chapel  commanding  a  fine  view  and  a  good  restaurant.  It  traverses 
the  wood  and  finally  vineyards ,  and  reaches  Konigswinter  in  40 
minutes.  [In  the  reverse  direction,  we  follow  the  Drachenfels  road 
to  a  point  40  paces  beyond  the  railway-crossing,  where  a  finger- 
post ou  the  left  Indicates  the  way  to  Heisterbach.]  On  the  N.E. 
side  of  the  Petersberg  is  abasalt  quarry,  whence  the  stones  are  con- 
veyed to  the  (3/4  M.)  road  near  Dollendorf  by  a  wire-rope  railway. 
Another  basalt  quarry,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  hill,  belonging  to  the 
provincial  authorities,  Is  exploited  so  briskly  that  serious  injury  to 
the  landscape  is  feared,  and  a  'Society  for  the  Protection  of  the 
Seven  Mountains'  has  been  formed. 

The  ascent  of  the  Petersberg  from  Heisterbach  takes  half-an-hour.  On 
passing  through  the  old  gate  of  the  convent  we  turn  to  the  right  and 
then  ascend  along  the  wall.  Numerous  guide-posts  make  it  impossible  to 
miss  the  way. 

The  LewBNBTJBG  is  usually  ascended  from  Honnef  or  Rhondorf. 
From  Honnef  a  new  carriage-road  ascends  through  the  wooded 
Schmelzerthal  01  Ashacher- Thai  to  the  top  in  2  hours.  —  The  shortest 
way  for  walkers  (174^^0  ^^^^  thiOMgh  Bommersdorf  and  along  the 
brook.  At  the  second  bench  the  shorter  way  leads  to  the  right; 
that  to  the  left  skirts  the  foot  of  the  Breiberg  (see  below).  Num- 
erous finger-posts. 

Feom  RndNDoap  (p.  71 ;  railway-stat. ;  cross  the  bridge  to  the 
right  of  the  station,  then  turn  to  the  left  through  the  village),  a 
broad  bridle-path  ascends  through  the  narrow  valley  flanked  on  the 
N.  by  the  heights  of  the  Wolkenburg,  the  Pulverkakn,  SckaUen- 
berg  (1007  ft.l,  and  Qeiiberg  (1080  ft.),  and  on  the  S.  by  the  broad 
Breiberg  (1043  ft. ;  finger-post  to  the  right;  view  from  the  top), 
and  reaches  the  Lowenburger  Hof  in  1 Y4  hr.  Another  path  leads 
off  hence  to  the  left,  passing  the  OiersehtidsqueUe  to  the  Marga- 
rethenhof  (p.  83).  —  The  Lowenburger  Hof  (1180  ft.)  is  a  forester's 
house  with  a  restaurant,  whence  the  top  is  attained  after  a  some- 
what steep  ascent  of  15-20  minutes. 

The  *L5wenbiirg  (1505  ft.),  a  wooded  peak  of  dolerite,  is  crown- 
ed with  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle,  most  of  which  had  to  be  lev- 
elled in  1881  to  forestall  a  threatened  collapse.    It  was  once  the 


Ahr  VaUey,  LANDSKRON.  U.  RouU.    85 

scene  of  the  conferences  of  Hermann,  Elector  of  Cologne,  with  the 
reformers  Melanchthon  and  Bucer,  before  he  became  a  convert  to 
Protestantism  in  1541  (p.  75).  Here,  too,  in  the  troublous  times 
of  1583,  Elector  Gebhard  resided  with  his  wife,  the  beautiful  Coun- 
tess Agnes  von  Mansfeld ,  whom  he  had  abducted  from  the  con- 
vent of  Gerresheim.  The  summit  commands  an  admirable  view. 

From  the  Lowenburger  Hof  a  road,  forming  the  continuation 
of  the  road  from  Honnef,  leads  towards  the  N.  along  the  E.  slope  of 
the  Lohrberg  (1443  ft.).  After  10  min.  a  flnger-post  on  the  left  in- 
dicates the  path  to  the  summit  of  the  Lohrberg,  which  may  be 
reached  in  10  min.  (tower  with  view).  The  road  reaches  the  Marga- 
rethenhof  (comp.  p.  83)  in  25  min.  more. 

The  Hir8chberg(836ft.),  crowned  with  a  belvedere,  commands 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Rhine  and  the  valley  enclosed  by  the  Seven 
Mts.  The  footpath  diverges  from  the  road  in  the  saddle  between 
the  Hirschberg  and  the  Wolkenburg,  about  200  paces  before  the 
point  where  the  Dracheufels  and  Oelberg  roads  separate,  and  reaches 
the  summit  in  Y4  hour. 

14.  Valley  of  the  Ahr. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  68. 

The  Ahr  rises  at  Blankenheim  (p.  190)  in  the  Eifel,  traverses  a  wind- 
ing, picturesque,  and  generally  narrow  valley,  64  M.  long,  and  falls  into 
the  Rhine  below  8imig.  The  river  is  always  rapid  and  often  overflows 
its  banks  in  rainy  weather. 

The  fnll-flavoured,  dark -red  wines  produced  by  the  vineyards  of  the 
Ahr,  which  in  good  seasons  yield  upwards  of  600,000  gallons  (the  best 
are  those  of  Walporzheim  ^  Ahrveilery  and  Bodendor/)^  are  still  termed 
^AhrbleicherVf  although  the  name  signifies  'pale  red  wine  of  the  Ahr\  It 
was  formerly  customary,  after  pressing  the  grapes,  to  draw  off  the  juice 
immediately,  before  fermentation  set  in.  The  wine  thus  prepared  was 
of  a  pink  colour.  The  French  plan  of  allowing  fermentation  to  begin  be- 
fore the  separation  of  the  juice  from  the  skins  has  however  long  been  in 
vogue,  and  the  dark-red  colour  is  the  result.  At  the  principal  places  in 
the  Ahr  valley  the  Winzerverein,  or  Vintage  Club,  has  established  good 
taverns,  where  the  wine  is  supplied  in  its  native  purity. 

Fbom  Rbmagbn  to  Ahswbilbs,  8  M.,  branch-railway  in  ^2  ^» 
(fares  1  m.  10,  80,  60  pf.).  A  continuation  to  Altenahr  is  to  be 
opened  in  1886. 

Rtmagen,  see  p.  60.  —  The  train  describes  a  circuit  round  the 
Victoria-Berg  and  enters  the  fruitful  and  well-cultivated  district  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Ahr,  known  as  the  'Ooldene  Meil'.  3  M.  Boden- 
dorfy  a  village  about  IY2  ^-  ^^^^  Sinzig  (p.  68),  the  church  of 
which  is  descried  to  the  left.  Farther  on  we  obtain  a  view  to  the 
left  of  the  wooded  hills  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr.  Along  the 
river  grow  numerous  willows,  which  are  used  for  basket-making. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  Landskron  (912  ft.),  a  lofty  basaltic 
hill,  which  may  be  ascended  in  Y2  ^^'  either  from  Lohrsdorf  (at  its 
S.E.  base,  IV2  M.  from  Bodendorf)  or  from  Heppingen  (to  the  W., 
IV2  M.  from  Neuenahr). 


86    Route  14.  NEUENAHR.  Ahr  Valley. 

The  castle  on  the  summit  is  said  to  have  been  founded  in  1306  by 
Emp.  Philip  of  Hohenstaufen,  when  on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Aix-la- 
Chapelle,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  in  check  the  hostile  Archbishop 
Bruno  of  Cologne.  It  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1677  and  again  in 
1682  by  Elector  William  of  Ck}logne.  The  richly-endowed  CJMpel  on  the 
S.W.  side  of  the  summit  has  been  spared;  a  basaltic  grotto  serves  as  a 
sacristy.  Near  it  is  a  quantity  of  massive  basalt,  overlying  columnar  ba- 
salt. The  view  embraces  the  Ahrthal  from  Ahrweiler  to  the  Rhine,  the 
higher  peaks  of  the  Seven  Hts.,  to  the  S.  a  portion  of  the  Eifel  with  the 
castle  of  Olbriick,  and  to  the  W.  the  ruin  of  Tomberg  near  Meckenheim. 

At  the  W.  base  of  the  Landskron  are  the  Heppinger-  and  the 
Landskroner-Mineralqtielle J  two  refreshing  springs,  impregnated 
with  carbonic  acid  gas.  The  Apollinarisbnumen,  a  similar  spring, 
situated  a  little  farther  up  the  valley,  is  the  property  of  the  Kreuz- 
berg  family  and  rented  by  an  English  company  (p.  6l\  which  has 
made  its  name  familiar  throughout  the  world.  About  50,000  bottles 
are  filled  daily,  and  750,000  are  despatched  every  month  to  Ame- 
rica alone.  The  water  is  conveyed  to  London  directly  by  ships 
belonging  to  the  company. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr,  2  M.  from  Neuenahr,  lies  Hei- 
mersheim,  the  small,  but  handsome  church  of  which,  with  its  flue 
octagonal  tower  over  the  centre  of  the  transept,  closely  resembles 
that  of  Sinzig.  Choir  richly  adorned.  Stained  glass  of  the  early- 
Gothic  period. 

6  M.  Neuenahr.  —  Hotels.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr:  *Cubbaus, 
with  150  apartments,  post  and  telegraph-office,  baths  in  a  building  on  the 
E.  side;  Concordia,  B.  <fe  B.  21/2,  D.  2»J2m.;  Victoria;  Heiuss;  Wal- 
BURGissTiFT,  unpretending,  ^pens.  41/2  m.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Ahr, 
near  the  station:  Hotel  de  Hollands;  Krone;  Geruahia,  these  three 
well  spoken  of ;  Hotel  Mann ;  Flora;  Traube;  Bheinibchrr  Hof ;  Hotel 
Bonn;  Schroder's.    Private  apartments  may  also  be  procured. 

Wine-Koom  of  the  Winzer-Verein  (p.  80),  near  the  station.  —  Beer 
at  the  Burg  Neuenahr,  with  garden. 

Oafe.    Bellevue,  with  garden. 

Donkey  to  Burg  Neuenahr,  1  m.,  there  and  back  1  m.  75  pf. ;  to  the 
Landskron,  1  m.  20  pf.  and  2  m. ;  horse  dearer. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  village,  1  pers.  60,  each  additional 
pers.  30  pf.    To  Walporzheim,  etc.,  same  charges  as  at  Ahrweiler. 

Neuenahr,  a  flourishing  modern  watering-place,  containing  2027 
inhab.  and  visited  by  3000  patients  yearly,  consists  of  two  formerly 
separate  villages,  Wadenheiniy  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ahr,  and  Beul, 
on  the  right.  The  railway-station,  the  post-office,  and  the  new 
Protestant  church  lie  on  the  left  bank,  while  the  Gurhaus  and  the 
Roman  Catholic  church  are  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The 
water  of  the  five  copious  thermal  springs  (86-104®  Fahr.),  resem- 
bling that  of  Ems,  is  a  weak  solution  of  oarbonate  of  soda,  with  an 
insignificant  admixture  of  carbonate  of  magnesia  and  carbonate  of 
lime,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid.  The  most  im- 
portant of  all  is  the  Orosse  Sprudel,  discovered  in  1861.  It  occasion- 
ally rises  in  a  thick  jet,  8-10  ft.  in  height.  The  springs  are  beneficial 
in  cases  of  chronic  catarrh,  derangement  of  the  pulmonary  and  diges- 
tive organs,  enlargement  of  the  liver,  and  uric  acid  diathesis.  The 
limate  of  Neuenahr  is  admirably  suited  for  lung-diseases  of  a  non- 


Ahf  Valley,  AHRWEILER.  14.  RouU,    87 

irritable  nature.  Pleasant  walks  surround  the  Curhaus  and  extend 
along  the  stream.  A  road  near  the  Victoria  Hotel  and  a  footpath  at 
the  Roman  GathoUo  church  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  wooded  basaltic 
hill  which  is  crowned  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Neuen- 
ahfj  built  by  Otto  von  Are  about  1226.  The  Are  family  became  ex- 
tinct in  1353,  and  the  castle  then  came  into  the  hands  of  the 
Knights  of  Rodesberg,  who  afterwards  assumed  the  title  Count  of 
Neuen-Are.  It  was  destroyed  in  1371  by  Archbishop  Siegfried  of 
Cologne  with  the  help  of  the  inhabitants  of  Ahrweiler.  The  small 
tower  at  the  top  commands  a  fine  view. 

Beyond  Neuenahr  the  train  passes  Hemmessem,  and  then  reaches — 
8  M.  Ahrweiler.  —  HoteU.  *8t£kn;DbbiKsonkn;D£ut8ghe8Had8. 
—  Kreutzherg^i  Restaurant.  —  Winzer-Verein  (p.  80),    near  the  Walporz- 
heimer  Thor. 

Oanriaf«  Tariff.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  1  pers.  60,  each  ad* 
ditional  pers.  30  pf.;  to  the  Calvarienberg  1  m.,  each  addit.  pers.  40  pf.; 
to  WcUporzheim,  Marienthal^  or  Neuenahr,  one-horse  (for  1-3  pers.)  iVs) 
two-horse  (4-5  pers.)  2^2  m.  \  to  AUenahr  5  or  7  m.,  there  and  back  within 
seven  hours  7  or  10,  spending  the  whole  day  10  or  13.  passing  the  night 
there  14  or  18  m. ;  to  Adenau  12  or  15,  there  and  back  15  or  18  m. ;  to  the 
Laaeher  See  13  or  16  m.,  there  and  back  17  or  22  m. 

Ahrweiler  (340  ft.),  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  is  a  thriving 
little  town  with  4318  Inhab.,  surrounded  by  old  walls,  and  carrying 
on  an  active  trade  in  wine.  In  the  middle  ages  it  belonged  to  the 
Electorate  of  Cologne,  and  was  repeatedly  besieged  during  the  feud 
between  the  chapter  of  the  cathedral,  to  which  it  adhered,  and  the 
deposed  archbishops.  In  1646  and  1680  the  town  was  besieged  by 
the  French,  by  whom  in  1689  it  was  entirely  burned  with  the  ex- 
ception of  ten  houses.  The  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrence,  founded 
in  1245,  dates  partly  from  the  14th  and  the  end  of  the  15th  cen- 
tury. Fine  view  from  the  Calvarienherg ,  a  rooky  height  V2M.  to 
the  S. ,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr,  crowned  with  a  Franciscan 
monastery,  dating  from  1678,  but  occupied  since  1838  by  a  girls* 
school  managed  by  Ursuline  nuns. 

Ahrweiler  lies  near  the  entrance  to  the  narrower  part  of  the  Ahr 
Valley,  which  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  districts  on  the  Rhine 
and  especially  well  suited  for  walkers  (to  Altenahr  71/2  M.).  The 
contraction  of  the  valley  begins  at  Walporiheim  {^8t.  Peter y  with 
garden,  good  wine ;  Winzer-  Vereiri),  3/4  M.  from  Ahrweiler,  a  place 
mentioned  under  the  name  of  Walpredeshoven  in  a  document  of 
893,  and  long  celebrated  for  its  wine.  The  railway  to  Walporz- 
heim  will  soon  be  opened. 

The  road  now  enters  a  rocky  ravine,  flanked  by  jagged  and  riven 
cliffs  of  slate;  on  the  left  rushes  the  Ahr,  on  the  right  rises  an 
almost  perpendicular  black  wall  of  slate-rock,  from  which  a  single 
ridge  called  the  *Bunte  KuK  projects.  At  the  top  is  a  small  inn, 
which  commands  an  admirable  view,  especially  by  evening-light, 
and  may  be  reached  either  from  Ahrweiler  or  Walporzheim.  To  the 
right  of  the  road  are  the  ruins  of  the  nunnery  of  Afflri€ntAfli(l  Vi^.), 


88    RouU  14.  ALTENAHR.  Ahr  VdUey. 

near  the  hamlet  of  that  name.    About  3/4  M.  farther  is  Demau 
(*Brenig,  plain),  with  a  railway  station  soon  to  be  opened. 

The  Kraus^  V/t  hr.  to  the  8.  of  Dernau,  the  highest  mountain  in  the 
vicinity,  commands  an  extensive  prospect,  reaching  as  far  as  Cologne. 

Beyond  Deruau  a  footpath,  destitute  of  shade,  but  preferable  to 
the  dusty  high-road,  diverges  and  follows  the  bank  of  the  Ahr,  pass- 
ing (but  not  crossing)  an  old  stone  bridge,  and  traversing  a  more 
open  part  of  the  valley,  to  (IY2  M.)  Rech^  where  the  valley  again 
contracts.  The  Ahr  winds  through  a  wild,  rocky  district.  The  road 
follows  the  course  of  the  stream,  rounding  the  precipitous  Saffen- 
burg,  to  (11/4  M.)  Mayschoss  (new  station)  and  the  (72  M.)  Loch- 
muMe  (see  below). 

The  pedestrian  may  prefer  the  following  route  from  Rech  to  the 
Lochmiihle,  which  is  not  longer  than  the  above  (I3/4  M.).  Near 
the  bridge  (on  the  right  bank),  a  path  ascends  to  the  right  through 
the  vineyards  (closed  from  the  end  of  August  till  the  end  of  the 
vintage)  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  on  which  stand  the  fragments  of 
the  Saffenburg  (846  ft.),  the  view  from  which  is  picturesque, 
although  limited.  The  castle  was  captured  by  the  French  in  1702 
and  destroyed  by  the  Imperial  troops  in  1704.  On  the  W.  side  of 
the  Saffenburg  the  path  descends  rapidly  to  the  road  at  the  bridge 
of  Mayschoss,  near  the  Lochmiihle. 

The  Lochmfihle  (6V2  M.  from  Ahrweiler;  •7nn,  R.,  B.,  &  S. 
31/2  ui.)  lies  at  the  entrance  of  a  deep  cutting  through  the  project- 
ing grauwacke  rocks,  in  which  an  oblique  vein  of  basalt,  2Y2  ^^^ 
thick,  is  perceptible.  A  grotto  formed  in  the  rock  in  1882  is  acces- 
sible from  the  iiin-garden.  The  valley  is  narrow,  and  the  road  is 
partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  partly  supported  by  masonry  on  the 
brink  of  the  stream.  The  Qucklty^  a  huge  rock  resembling  a  tower, 
may  be  ascended  by  steps. 

The  road  next  passes  the  hamlets  of  Loach  and  Reimtrzhofeny 
at  the  latter  of  which,  1  M.  from  the  Lochmiihle,  pedestrians  should 
ascend  a  path  through  the  vineyards  to  the  right  (see  below).  The 
road  remains  in  the  valley  and  soon  reaches  the  DuTchbme\  a  tunnel 
about  70  yds.  long,  constructed  in  1830-33,  by  means  of  which  the 
circuit  of  IV2  M.  described  by  the  valley  is  cut  oflf.  At  the  end  of 
the  tunnel,  3/^  M.  from  Reimerzhofen  and  2  M.  from  the  Lochmiihle, 
lies  the  ancient  village  of  Altenahr  (^Caspariy  D.  3  m.;  Rheini- 
scher  Hofy  with  garden  on  the  Ahr,  R.  &  B.  21/2,  !>•  21/2^1.; 
WciBses  Kreuzy  plain),  the  finest  point  in  the  Ahr  valley,  situated 
amidst  very  picturesque  scenery.  The  prettily-situated  Romanesque 
church  has  a  Gothic  choir.    Pleasing  view  from  the  churchyard. 

It  is,  however,  much  preferable  to  quit  the  road  at  Reimerzhofen, 
an4  ascend  the  above-mentioned  path  to  the  right  through  vineyards 
(closed  during  the  vintage)  to  the  so-called  *Wcw«e  ^rcuz  ('white 
cross' ;  ^4  hr.),  visible  from  the  road.  It  stands  on  a  rocky  ridge,  361  ft. 
above  the  stream,  and  commands  a  strikingly-picturesque  view,  sur- 


Ahr  VaUey.  ADENAU.  14,  Route.    89 

passing  that  from  the  castle  of  Altenahr,  as  the  latter  itself  forms 
the  foreground  of  the  wild,  rocky  landscape.  The  path  descends  on 
the  other  side  to  Altenahr  in  8  minutes. 

The  *Ca8tle  of  Altenahr  (892  ft.  ahove  the  sea-level;  371  ft. 
ahove  the  village),  the  ruins  of  which  are  perched  like  an  eagle's 
nest  on  a  bold,  jagged  cliff,  rising  immediately  above  the  village, 
was  once  the  seat  of  the  powerful  Counts  of  the  Are  and  afterwards 
of  the  Counts  of  Hochstaden,  of  whose  elder  branch  Conrad,  Arch- 
bishop of  Cologne,  the  founder  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne  in  1248, 
was  the  last  scion.  The  castle,  which  is  said  to  have  existed  as 
early  as  the  10th  cent. ,  was  considerably  strengthened  by  the 
Electors  of  Cologne  in  the  14th  and  15th ;  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  French  in  1672  and  again  in  1690,  and  was  finally  destroyed  in 
consequence  of  the  Peace  of  Utrecht  (1714).  On  one  occasion  when 
the  castle  was  captured,  the  chivalrous  Count  von  Are  is  said  to 
have  thrown  himself  down  the  precipice  adjoining  the  principal 
tower  to  avoid  being  taken  prisoner.  Admission  30,  for  a  single 
visitor  50  pf.  (custodian  generally  at  the  ruin  in  summer). 

Another  fine  point  of  view  is  the  *Horn,  above  Altenahr :  to  Al- 
tenburgj  ^^M.,  thence  to  the  pavilion  with  guide,  an  ascent  of  ^/^hr. 

From  Altekahb  to  Adenau,  12V2  M.,  diligence  twice  daily.  —  There 
are  several  pictaresque5!point8  in  the  valley  of  the  Ahr  above  Altenahr. 
One  of  the  best  views  is  obtained  from  the  bridge  over  the  Ahr :  to  the 
left  are  the  rugged  rocks  of  the  Teu/eltkanzel  (Devil's  Pulpit);  then  the 
grand  mass  of  rocks  known  as  the  Alte  Burg  (old  castle),  with  the  ham- 
let^ of  Altenbarg ;  on  a  bold  eminence  near  Kreuzberg  rises  a  picturesque 
chateau.  Another  fine  point  of  view  is  the  hill  beyond  the  village  of 
fUtz/eldj  about  SVa  M.  from  Altenahr.  About  Va  M.  farther  on  is  BrUck 
(Kachtsheim),  at  the  entrance  to  the  picturesque  rocky  KeueUnger  Thai, 
through  which  a  carriage-road  leads  to  (8V2  H.)  Kaltenbom  (Langenfeld  \ 
hence  to  the  Hohe  Acht  V2  hr.),  etc.  The  road  through  the  Ahrthal  next 
passes  ff&nningen  and  Liers,  and  reaches  (4  M.)  Ditmpelfeld,  where  it 
quits  the  Ahr.  [The  picturesque  new  road  that  continues  hence  through 
the  Ahr  valley  leads  by  Jntely  the  picturesquely-situated  (2  M.)  Schuld,  the 
(2  M.)  Zai^etibtieher  Ho/  (Inn,  plain),  and  Fuchsho/en  to  the  O/2  M.)  Wcis- 
holdei'  Ho/.  Hence  we  may  ascend  in  11/4  hr.  to  the  top  of  the  'Arem- 
berg,  a  basaltic  cone  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the  ancestral  castle  of 
the  Dukes  of  Aremberg  and  a  watch-tower,  60  ft.  in  height.  On  the  W. 
side  is  the  hamlet  of  Aremberg.  About  8/4  M.  beyond  the  Washolder  Hof 
lies  Antieeiler  (Keubusch),  on  the  road  from  Blankenheim  (p.  190)  to 
Adenau  (see  below:  from  Adenau  to  Antweller  6  M.).]  —  Our  road  con- 
tinues from  Dumpeifeld  to  (iVs  M.)  — 

I2V2  M.  (from  Altenahr)  Adenau  (960  ft.  \  *Halber  Mond;  Krone;  Liftoe), 
the  principal  village  of  the  district,  with  1500  inhab.,  near  which  rise  two 
basaltic  peaks,  the  highest  points  in  the  Eifel.  The  nearer  of  these  is  the 
Niirbttrg  (2181  ft.),  IV2  hr.  to  the  8.,  surmounted  by  a  ruined  castle  men- 
tioned as  early  as  943,  with  a  lofty  tower  commanding  a  beautiful  pano- 
rama (ascent  from  Quiddelbaeh,  on  the  Kelberg  road,  3  M.  from  Adenau, 
turning  to  the  left  beyond  the  village,  20  min  \  key  of  the  tower  at  the 
inn).  The  *'Hohe  Acht  (2410  ft.),  2  hrs.  to  the  E.,  commands  an  even 
more  extensive  view  over  the  Eifel  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  the  Rhine, 
and  even  the  cathedral  of  Cologne.  At  the  top  is  a  small  refuge-hut.  Guide 
from  Adenau  I-IV2  m.  —  From  Adenau  diligences  ply  once  diaily  in  20  hrs. 
via  Kelberg  (*Pauli's  Inn)  to  Cochem  (p.  181),  and  once  daily,  in  3«/4  hrs., 
to  Mayen  (p.  91). 


90 

15.   From  Andernach  to  Hayen.   Brohlthal.  Laacher 
See. 

The  Laacher  See  may  be  visited  either  from  MedermencUg  (1  hr.)  or 
from  Brohl  (3  hrs.).  DUtaneet:  from  Brohl  to  Tdnnisstein  31/2  H.,  Was- 
senach  2V<)  Abbey  of  Laach  3,  Niedermendig  3  H. 

Carriage  Tariff.  From  Andernach  via  Kiedennendig  and  Laach  to  Brohl 
15  m.,  with  one  horse  12  m.  \  to  Laach  Abbey  in  2  hrs^  thence  to  Brohl  in 
2  hrs.  more.  —  From  Brohl  to  Tonnisstein,  one-horse  3,  two-horse  5,  there 
and  back  5  or  8  m. ;  to  Laach  8  or  11,  there  and  back  10  or  13 Vs  m. ;  per 
day  11  or  16  m.  —  From  Niedermendig  (Joh.  Honer)  to  Laach  4  or  6 ;  Tdn- 
nisstein 7  or  9  J  Brohl  10  or  15  m.  Omnibus  from  Niedermendig  to  Laach  1  m. 

FB.OM  Andbbnaoh  TO  Matbn,  14  m.)  branch-railway  in  1  hr. 
(fares  2,  i%  1  m. ;  iQNiedtrmtndig  in  3/4  hr.,  1  m.  20,  90,  60pf.). 

Andernach,  see  p.  64.  4  M.  Plaidt ;  the  viUage  (360  ft. ;  Zillien) 
lies  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  station.  From  the  station  we  reach  in 
Y4  hr.  the  Bauschermukle  (Inn),  where  the  Nette  is  precipitated  over 
blocks  of  lava,  forming  a  series  of  small  cascades.  In  the  vicinity 
are  extensive  trass  -  quarries  (comp.  p.  91).  On  a  rock  rising 
abruptly  from  the  Nette ,  ^^  M.  to  the  left,  stands  the  ruin  of 
Wemerseck  (560  ft.),  with  a  well-preserved  tower. 

The  hills  which  are  now  visible  on  both  sides  of  the  line  are  all 
extinct  volcanoes :  to  the  right  are  the  Niekenieher  Weinberg  and 
the  Krufter  Ofen  (1538  ft. ;  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Laacher  See, 
1  M.  distant) ;  to  the  left,  the  Plaidter  Hummerich  (968  ft.),  with 
its  saddle-like  summit,  and  the  Korretaberg  (984  ft.).  —  6  M.  Kruft 
(Werle).  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  in  the  plain,  is  the  Frauenkircke, 
or  church  of  St,  Oenovefa,  where  according  to  the  legend  the  saint 
was  found  by  her  husband  Siegfried,  Count  Palatine  of  Hohen- 
simmern.  The  church  contains  monuments  of  both.  Numerous 
mineral  springs  bubble  up  on  the  road-side,  near  the  brook  which 
crosses  the  road,  the  water  of  which  is  now  bottled  and  exported. 

9^2  M.  Niedermendig  (*Ouie  Quelle,  with  a  garden ;  *Po8t),  a 
village  with  2884  inhab.,  famous  for  the  extensive  *Quarries  of 
Basaltic  Lava  in  its  neighbourhood.  The  subterranean  strata,  occu- 
pying an  area  3  M.  in  length  and  IY2  M.  in  breadth,  extend  to  the 
Krufter  Ofen  (see  above),  but  the  lava-stream,  which  was  probably 
ejected  by  the  Hoohstein  (1772ft.,  to  the  W.),  is  thickest  at  Nieder- 
mendig. The  quarries,  which  are  chiefly  under  ground ,  and  were 
probably  once  worked  by  the  Romans,  are  almost  all  connected,  and 
communicate  with  the  surface  of  the  earth  by  wide  shafts.  The  roof 
is  supported  by  massive  pillars  left  for  the  purpose.  The  descent  is 
by  narrow  flights  of  steps.  A  guide  (1  m.)  precedes  visitors  with  a 
torch ;  the  inspection  occupies  an  hour.  The  temperature  in  these 
mines  is  so  low  that  even  in  summer  masses  of  ice  are  seen  in  all 
directions.  The  hardness  and  durability  of  the  lava  adapt  it  ad- 
mirably for  millstones,  as  well  as  for  paving  and  building  purposes. 
The  deserted  galleries  are  used  as  beer-cellars,  to  which  the  beer  of 
Niedermendig  is  chiefly  indebted  for  its  reputation.  —  Omnibuses 


MAYEN.  76.  RouU,    91 

and  carriages  meet  all  the  trains  to  conyey  travellers  to  the  (SVsM.) 
Laacher  See  (p.  02).  The  second  half  of  the  route,  after  the  in- 
tervening hills  have  been  crossed,  affords  a  charming  view  of  the 
lake  and  the  fine  ahbey-ohurch. 

The  train  continues  to  wind  its  way  among  hills.  —  12^2  M. 
Coitenheim  (May).  To  the  right  is  the  Mayener  BelUnbergy  beyond 
which  rises  the  Eitringer  Bellenberg  (see  below). 

14  M.  Mayen  (780  ft. ;  ^Kohlhaas,  in  the  Markt),  a  town  with 
8435  inhab.,  possesses  a  late-Gothic  church  and  a  partly-preserved 
castle  of  1280  (Genovefa-Burg).  To  the  N.  of  the  station  are  several 
lava-quairies,  but  nearer  the  surface  than  those  already  mentioned, 
and  some  of  them  partly  open. 

The  lava-bed  in  which  they  are  worked  is  the  outlet  of  the  ancient 
volcano  of  EUringer-Bellenherg  (1407  ft.),  IV2  M.  to  the  K.  of  Mayen.  The 
E.  side  of  the  crater  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  fertile  plain  of  the  Mai- 
feld  and  Pellenz  between  Mayen  and  Andemach,  and  of  the  Rhine  Valley. 
A  more  extensive  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  Hocfuimmer  (1883  ft.),  ascended 
from  Mayen  in  l^/a  hour. 

A  good  road  leads  from  Mayen  to  the  IT.W.,  through  the  pretty  valley 
of  the  Kette,  to  (3  M.)  the  well-preserved  turreted  ch&teau  of  *BUrrei- 
heim,  on  a  hill  partly  surrounded  by  the  Nette.  It  is  mentioned  in  his- 
tory as  early  as  the  12th  cent.,  and  now  belongs  to  a  Count  Eenesse- 
Breitbach.  Below  the  castle,  to  the  S.,  lies  the  hamlet  of  St.  Johann.  — 
About  372  M.  to  the  8.W.  of  Mayen  is  Monreal  (Kircher),  charmingly  sit- 
uated in  the  Elzthal,  with  two  ruined  castles,  the  larger  and  more  modern 
of  which  dates  from  1229.  —  A  pleasant  round  may  be  made  from  Mayen 
as  follows :  to  the  Hochsimmer,  IV2  hr. ;  St.  Johann  and  Biirresheim,  V4  br.  \ 
then  across  a  bridge  below  Biirresheim  and  through  the  first  wooded  valley 
to  Oarrehbergy  >/4  hr. ;  thence  by  RwtdMtterz  to  Monreal ,  i  hr.  j  back  to 
Mayen,  iVt  hr. 

Fbom  Brohl  to  the  Laaoheb  See,  9  M.  (carriage,  see  p.  90). 

Brchl  (p.  64;  184  ft.  above  the  sea)  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Brohlthal,  a  deep  winding  valley,  enclosed  by  wooded  moun- 
tains, and  enlivened  with  numerous  mills  and  houses.  An  object 
of  great  interest  is  the  extensive  stratum  of  Tu/h,  50-100  ft.  in 
thickness,  of  which  the  floor  of  the  valley  consists,  and  above 
which  rise  slopes  of  Devonian  slate  (p.  xviii).  This  tufa  is  an 
important  article  of  commerce,  and  is  extensively  excavated  from 
quarries  and  mines  on  both  sides  of  the  valley.  When  pounded 
(Hrass')  and  mixed  with  lime  it  possesses  the  invaluable  property 
of  hardening  under  water,  and  is  largely  exported  to  Holland  for 
the  construction  of  dykes.  Numerous  springs  strongly  impregnated 
with  carbonic  acid  gas,  near  the  Laacher  See,  and  especially  in  the 
Brohlthal,  still  afford  indication  of  slumbering  volcanic  agency. 

The  road  which  ascends  the  valley,  skirting  the  Brohlbach,  is 
flanked  on  both  sides  with  numerous  tufa-quarries,  some  of  which 
are  open,  while  others  are  driven  like  mining-shafts  into  the  hill. 
After  2  M. ,  in  the  middle  of  the  valley ,  rises  the  small  castle  of 
Schweppenbnrg  (311  ft.),  probably  erected  in  the  16th  century. 
The  garden  contains  a  Roman  altar  found  here. 


92    Route  15,  t5NNISSTEIN. 

The  HsiLBBUNNSB  Thal,  which  diverges  here  to  the  S..  containfl  the 
Heilbrunnen  (384  ft.),  a  mineral  spring  of  saltish,  but  refreshing  taste,  sim- 
ilar to  the  Krenzbrunnen  of  Harienbad. 

About  IV4  M.  from  Schweppenburg,  a  road  diverges  to  the  left 
through  a  side-yalley  to  the  Laacher  See ;  the  main  road  to  the  right 
leads  to  Olbruck  (see  below).  By  the  former  we  soon  reach  Bad  Ton- 
niflstein  (410  ft.),  the  water  of  which,  strongly  impregnated  with 
carbonic  acid,  resembling  that  of  Selters,  was  collected  in  a  tank  as 
early  as  1700.  Good  accommodation  during  the  season  at  the  Cur- 
haus  (R.,  L.,  &  A.  2  m.,  B.  80  pf. ;  table  d'hdte  at  1  p.m.). 

The  road  through  the  Brohl  Valley  leads  on  to  (1  H.)  Burgbrohl  (480  ft. ; 
*Bell)^  picturesquely  situated,  with  an  old  castle,  once  the  seat  of  a  fa- 
mily of  that  name.  The  road  next  passes  (3  H.)  Nieder-Zisten^  at  the  foot 
of  the  Bausenberg^  which  rises  to  the  N.  of  the  village.  The  summit  of 
this  hill  forms  the  most  perfectly  defined  crater  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Laacher  See  \  the  inner  margin  consists  of  precipitous  slag-rocks,  80  ft.  in 
height,  opening  towards  the  N.W.    The  hollow  is  occupied  by  a  farm. 

The  next  places  are  (IV4  M.)  Ober-ZUten,  (1  M.)  ffain,  and  (1  M.)  the 
castle  of  ^Olbrilck  (1552  ft.  •,  now  the  property  of  Herr  von  Ekespare),  one 
of  the  highest  points  in  this  district,  with  an  extensive  view  of  the  vol- 
canic peaks  of  the  Eifel,  the  hills  towards  the  Rhine  (with  Cologne),  and 
the  Seven  Mts.  The  peak  on  which  it  stands  consists  of  clink-stone  or 
phonolite,  also  a  volcanic  product.  The  castle  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1689.  From  Olbruck  to  the  abbey  of  Laach,  via  Engtln^  8  M.  —  From 
Nieder-Zis»en  (see  above),  a  road  leads  past  the  volcanic  peak  (>/4  hr.)  of 
Herchenberg  (1063  ft.),  (25  min.)  Ober-LUtzingm.  and  (25  min.)  Nieder- 
LUtzingen^  to  (40  min.)  the  castle  of  Rheineeh  (p.  63),  where  we  reach  the 
Rhine,  a  walk  of  about  71/2  M.  in  all.  —  From  Nieder-Zissen  to  Neuenahr 
(p.  86),  about  12  M. 

The  road  to  the  Laacher  See  diverges  to  the  right  below  the  Cur- 
haus,  before  the  bridge  is  crossed,  passes  (Va  M.)  the  ruins  of  the 
(1.)  Carmelite  monastery  of  Antoniusstein  (hence  the  corruption 
'Tonnisstein'),  again  ascends  to  the  right  to  (1^/4  M.)  Wassenach 
(915  ft. ;  Zum  Laacher  See^  tolerable),  and  then  descends  through 
wood  towards  the  Laacher  See.  On  the  right  rises  the  wooded  Veits- 
kopf  (1381  ft.),  a  volcanic  peak  with  a  double  crater  opening  on  the 
W.,  and  a  broad,  abruptly-inclined  lava  stream.  The  view  hence 
of  the  lake  surrounded  by  wooded  hills  is  very  striking. 

The  ""Laacher  See  (902  ft.)  occupies  a  nearly  circular  basin, 
1^/3  M.  in  diameter,  and  5  M.  in  circumference,  and  is  about  175  ft. 
deep  in  the  middle.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  crater-like  tarns  of  the 
Eifel  (p.  197),  and,  though  not  itself  a  crater,  has  doubtless  been 
formed  by  volcanic  action.  The  road  skirts  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake. 

The  volcanic  formations  for  which  the  Vorder-Eifel  is  remarkable 
occur  here  in  very  great  variety,  and  the  lake  itself  has  obviously  been 
the  central  point  of  the  volcanic  activity  of  this  neighbourhood.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  five  craters :  the  F«»<<*op/ (see above),  the  Laacherkopf  (iSCS  ft.), 
the  Laacher  Rotheberg  (1672  ft.),  the  Tellberg  (1328  ft.),  and  the  Kru/ter 
0/en  (p.  90).  Upwards  of  forty  different  streams  of  lava,  the  chrono- 
logical order  of  which  has  been  established  with  more  or  less  precision, 
have  been  counted  in  the  environs  of  the  lake.  There  also  occur  ex- 
tensive masses  of  tufa  of  various  kinds,  particularly  in  the  valleys  de- 
scending towards  the  Rhine,  as  at  Plaidt  and  Kruft  (where  it  is  called 
Duckstein),  and  in  the  Brohlthal.  The  older  theory,  which  Oeynhausen 
vas  one   of  the  last  to  maintain ,   was  that  these  deposits  of  tufa  were 


LAAOH.  15.  Route,    93 

emitted  from  the  volcanoes  in  the  form  of  mud ;  but  more  recent  inveflti- 
gationfl  (by  Humboldt,  Nfiggerath,  and  Dechen)  tend  to  show  that  the 
tufa,  aa  well  as  the  extensive  beds  of  pumice-stone  in  this  region  (p.  64), 
was  gradually  formed  by  showers  of  volcanic  matter.  After  an  inundation 
in  the  12th  cent,  had  threatened  the  abbey  lands  with  destruction,  tiie 
monks  of  Laach  sank  a  shaft  on  the  S.  side  of  the  lake,  by  which  the 
superfluous  water  was  conducted  to  the  Kette.  A  similar  shaft,  con- 
structed in  1845,  lowered  the  level  of  the  lake  30  ft. 

Oeynhausen's  geognostic-orographic  maps  of  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Laacher  See  (Berlin,  1847)  and  Dr.  v.  Dechen's  geognostic  guide  to  the 
Laacher  See  (Bonn,  1864)  are  recommended  to  scientific  travellers. 

On  the  S.W.  bank  rises  the  Benedictine  Abbey  of  *Itaaoli, 
founded  in  1093  by  Count  Palatine  Henry  II. ,  and  secularised  in 
1802,  once  one  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  celebrated  in  Germany. 
In  1863  it  became  the  property  of  the  Jesuits,  who  established  a 
school  here  for  pupils  of  the  order,  but  were  compelled  to  abandon 
it,  in  consequence  of  the  law  of  1872  excluding  Jesuits  from  the 
Empire  of  Germany.  The  *Church  (now  the  property  of  govern- 
ment), completed  in  1156,  with  dome,  five  towers,  and  crypt,  is  a 
noble  example  of  the  Romanesque  style,  being  most  impressive 
externally  (p.  xxviil).  The  beautiful  *Porch  in  front  of  the  W.  facade, 
restored  in  1859,  belongs  to  the  close  of  the  12th  century.  The 
vaulting  in  the  interior  deviates  from  the  usual  style  in  having  its 
longitudinal  sections  in  the  nave  no  broader  than  those  in  the  aisles. 
The  curious  monument  of  the  founder,  a  sarcophagus  with  a  recum- 
bent figure,  beneath  a  hexagonal  canopy  supported  by  columns,  dates 
from  the  end  of  the  13th  century.  The  two  front  columns  are 
monoliths  of  variegated  'calcsintef,  found  in  the  Roman  aqueduct 
through  the  Eifel  Mts.  On  the  road-side,  outside  the  monastery 
walls ,  is  the  *H6tel  Maria  Laach  (R.  2V2i  !>•  2V2>  'pension'  4  m., 
A.  complained  of),  where  the  keys  of  the  church  may  be  obtained. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  lake,  nearly  opposite  the  abbey,  is  another  ex- 
tensive building,  erected  by  the  Jesuits.  Near  it,  about  20  ft.  above  the 
water,  is  a  ^ino/€Ue\  a  hollow  7  ft.  in  width,  and  3-4  ft.  in  depth,  whence 
a  stream  of  carbonic  acid  gas  (most  preceptible  in  wet  weather)  constantly 
issues.  The  suffocating  nature  of  the  lower  strata  of  the  air  in  this  hol- 
low may  be  tested  by  stooping  down  and  attempting  to  breathe  it. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  Laach  vi&  Bell  to  the  top  of 
the  (IV2  hr.)  Oftnaehala  (1873  ft.),  which  commands  an  extensive  view  of 
the  Laacher  See,  the  Pellenz,  the  mountains  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle, 
Olbriick  and  the  Seven  Hts.  to  the  N.,  etc.  From  Bell  to  Niedermendig 
by  Ohermendig  (^Spitzlay,  plain),  1  hr.  On  the  way  interesting  view  to 
the  right  of  the  Ettringer  Bellenberg  (p.  91),  the  volcanic  character  of 
which  is  clearly  discernible  from  this  side. 

16.  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein. 

Railway  Stations.  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein  (p.  99)  together 
possess  three  railway-stations.  1.  Station  of  the  Rhenish  Railway  at  Coblenz 
(PI.  A,  2,  3)  for  the  railway  on  the  Left  Bank  of  the  Rhine,  and  for  the 
trains  to  Ehrenbreitstein  (comp.  p.  71).  —  2.  Motelbahnhof  (PI.  A,  4,  5), 
at  the  foot  of  the  Karthause,  V4  M.  from  the  town,  for  the  Moselle  railway 
(B.  26)  and  the  Lahn  railway  (R.  27) ;  the  trains  of  the  Left  Bank  also 
stop  here.  Gab  from  either  of  these  stations  into  the  town,  1-2  pers. 
76  pf.,  3-4  pers.   IV4  m.,  with  two  horses  1  m.   or  IVam.,  box  10  pf.  — 


94    Route  16,  COBLENZ.  Carriages. 

3.  8kHio»  of  ihB  Rhmish  RdtUway  at  JShrenbreiMein  (PI.  £,  2),  for  the  rail- 
way of  the  Right  Bank;  it  is  nearer  to  the  Coblene  hotels  situated  on 
the  Rhine  than  either  of  the  other  stations ,  but  the  hotel-omnibuses  are 
not  sent  to  meet  the  trains.  Gab  with  one  horse  to  Goblenz,  1-4  pers., 
l>/<  m. ;  with  two  horses  2  m. ;  bridge-toll  45-60  pf.  extra. 

Hotels.  On  tht  Khint:  *Giant  (PI.  a*,  D,  2),  R.  from  2i|2  m.,  A.  60  pf., 
B.  1  m.  20 pf.,  D.  3  m.;  *Bkllbvub  (PI.  b^  D,  2),  similar  charges,  two  houses 
of  the  first  class.  —  Ankeb  (PI.  c;  D,  2),  R.,  L.,  &  A.,  from  2  m.,  B.  1  m.  20, 
I).  2V4  m.  •,  Tbaubb  (PI.  g ;  D,  2).  in  the  Rhein-Strasse,  near  the  Rhine  ^ 
ViCTOBiA  HoTBL,  opposite  the  Rhine  bridge,  unpretending.  —  In  the  Town  : 
«Wiu>BB  SoHWBiM  (PI.  f ;  B,  2),  in  the  Plan,  2nd  el.,  R.  &  B.  2V2,  A.  Vsm.  •, 
^Beblinbb  Hof,  near  the  Rhenish  station,  unpretending,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B. 
8  m. ;  Hotel  db  LiAob  (PI.  e  *,  B,  2),  near  the  Hoselle  pier,  B.  &  B.  2  m.  ; 
Emgbls,  see  below;  KGlniscbbb  Hof,  by  the  Moselle  bridge*,  Tbibbsghbr 
HoF  (PI.  d  *,  C,  %  in  the  Glemens-Platz.  —  Fenaiona.  £rnen  (frequented  by 
English  visitors),  Beautdjour,  Chardon^  ^pens."  with  R.  4-6  m.,  all  situated 
on  the  Rhine  Promenade,  and  well  spoken  of. 

Oafia.  *Trinkhalle  (PI.  G,  5)  on  the  Rhine  Promenade,  military  music 
on  Thursday  afternoons;  Rhein-Pavillon ^  on  the  Rhine  Wharf,  in  sum- 
mer only;  Hubalekf  opposite  the  post-office  (PI.  G,  3).  Beer  in  all.  —  Wine. 
^Tillmann,  Unter'm  Stern,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Kornpfort-Str.  (PI.  C,  2), 
with  restaurant,  with  a  view  of  the  Moselle*,  Vogelsang,  Garmeliter-Str. 
and  Regierungs-Str.  (PI.  D,  3);  Scheid,  in  the  Fruchtmarkt;  CwU-€asino 
(PI.  4),  introduction  by  a  member  necessary.  —  Bear.  Zum  Frangiskaner, 
Kleiner  Parade-Platz  2;  Engelt,  Schloss-Str. ;  Orenzkauter^  near  the  Mainzcr 
Thor,  with  garden.  —  Oonfeetionert.  Bchac^f,  Firmung  -  Str. ;  Laibacher^ 
Glemens-Str. 

Batha  in  the  Rhine  (PI.  E,  2),  attached  to  the  bridge-of-boats  (bath 
50  pf.).  —  Warm  at  Fischer" i,  Lohr-Str.  85,  near  the  station,  and  at  Hens- 
ler^Sj  Gastorhof. 

Foat  and  Office  Telegraph  (PI.  30;  G,  3),  at  the  corner  of  the  Gle- 
mens-Platz. 

Carriages.  (Stands  on  the  Rhine,  near  the  bridge-of-boats ;  in  the  Schloss- 
Rondel,  PL  G,  8,  4 ;  and  at  the  stations.)  One-horse :  per  drive  within  the 
town,  to  Liitzel-Goblenz  (PI.  B,  1),  to  the  Rondel  on  the  Mainzer 
Ghaussee  (PI.  G,  6) ,  or  to  the  foot  of  the  Karthause  (PI.  A ,  5) ,  or  to  or 
from  the  Goblenz  stations,  1-2  pers.  75,  3-4  pers.  IVim.;  luggage,  10  pf.  for 
each  heavy  package ;  to  Capellen  (Stolzenfels),  or  Mederlahnstein,  or  Vallen- 
dar  3  m.,  there  and  back  with  stay  of  2  hrs.  5  m. ;  to  P/affendorf  or  the 
Laubbaeh  1V«  m.,  there  and  back  with  stay  of  2  hrs.,  3V2  m. ;  fort  of  Ehren- 
breitstein,  or  to  the  top  of  the  Pfaffendorfer  Hohe  (Asterstein),  4  m.,  and 
back  with  2  hrs.  stay,  5  m.;  Horchheim  2V2  or  SVs  m. ;  by  time,  for  the 
1st  hr.  2Vs  m.,  each  additional  1/2  hr.  1  m.  25  pf.  —  Two-horse  carriages 
about  one-half  more.  Bridge-toll  (45-60  pf.)  saved  by  taking  a  carriage  in 
Ehrenbreitstein  for  excursions  on  the  right  bank.  Double  fares  from 
10  p.m.  to  6  a.m.  —  Garriages  from  the  hotels  are  dearer. 

Forterage  of  luggage  from  the  steamboat  to  the  hotel,  each  article  40  pf. 

English  Ohnrch  Service  at  11  a.m.  and  6  (in  winter  5)  p.m.  in  the  Eng- 
lish Ghapel  in  the  Palace;  chaplain,  Rev.  A.  W.  Antenhring. 

Frincipal  Attractions.  Walk  from  the  Holz-Thor  through  the  Rhine 
Promenade  to  the  (1  M.)  Rondel,  return  as  far  as  the  Schenkendorf 
monument,  follow  the  glacis  to  the  left  as  far  as  the  Mainter-Thor,  enter 
by  this  gate,  cross  the  Railway  Bridge^  ascend  the  Asterstein  (p.  100),  or 
Ehrenbreitstein  (p.  100),  and  finally  return  by  the  bridge-of-boats,  a  walk 
of  3-3V2  hrs.  in  all.  —  To  obtain  a  glimpse  at  the  town  itself:  walk  from 
the  steamboat-pier  down  the  Rhine  to  the  confluence  of  the  Moselle,  turn 
to  the  left,  enter  the  gate  and  visit  St.  Gastor^s  Ghurch  (see  below),  then, 
if  time  permit,  proceed  to  the  Moselle  Bridge  (p.  96). 

CobleiUy  at  the  confluence  of  the  Moselle  and  Rhine,  is  the  cap- 
ital of  the  Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia  and  the  seat  of  the  civil 
and  military  authorities.  Pop.  31,674;  garrison  5000,  Ehrenbrelt- 


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St.  Castor,  COBLENZ.  16,  Route.    95 

stein  not  inoluded  (see  p.  99).  Coblenz  carries  on  an  important 
wine-trade  and  manufactures  large  quantities  of  champagne,  most 
of  which  is  exported  to  England  and  the  British  Colonies.  The 
town  is  surrounded  with  a  wall,  and  the  neighbouring  heights  of 
Ehrenbreitstein,  the  Asterstein,  Karthause,  and  Petersberg  are  all 
strongly  fortified  with  outworks,  but  compared  with  the  fortresses  of 
Mayence,  Cologne,  Strassburg  and  Metz,  Coblenz  is  no  longer  in 
the  first  rank.  Few  towns  on  the  Rhine  can  vie  with  Coblenz  in 
beauty  of  situation ,  standing  as  it  does  at  the  junction  of  two  of 
the  most  picturesque  rivers  in  Europe,  and  commanding  charming 
views  in  every  direction. 

Kg  ancieat  writers  mention  a  Soman  town  on  the  site  of  the  present 
Coblenz,  and  no  remains  have  been  found  to  give  colour  to  a  belief  that 
one  existed.  It  appears  to  have  been  originally  only  a  posting-station  (^Ad 
Confluentes')  on  the  great  Roman  road,  and  was  not  made  a  'castrum*,  or 
fortress,  till  the  5th  century.  In  1864,  when  the  Moselle  was  unusually  low, 
numerous  remains  of  a  Roman  bridge-of-piles  were  discovered  below  the 
Moselle  bridge,  probably  dating  from  the  5th  century.  Down  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  Rhenish  Towns^  Confederation ,  Coblenz  was  a  place  of 
little  importance.  In  the  Thirty  Tears^  War  it  was  alternately  besieged 
and  garrisoned  by  Swedish ,  French ,  and  Imperial  troops.  In  1688,  al- 
though  the  town  was  nearly  destroyed  by  the  French  cannonade,  Mar- 
shal Boufflers  was  compelled  to  retreat  without  effecting  an  entry.  On 
the  completion  of  the  palace  in  1786  Coblenz  became  the  residence  of 
the  Elector  of  Treves,  but  a  few  years  later  (1794)  it  was  taken  by  the 
French,  who  in  1798  made  it  the  capital  of  the  Department  of  the  Rhine 
and  Moselle.  On  1st  Jan.,  1814,  the  French  were  compelled  by  the  allies 
to  evacuate  the  town,  and  the  following  year  it  became  Prussian. 

The  side  of  the  town  towards  the  Rhine  consists  of  a  row  of 
large  buildings :  the  palace,  government-offices,  hotels,  and  dwel- 
ling-houses, and  lastly  the  venerable  church  of  St.  Castor  and  the 
simple  Gothic  Teutonic  Lodge  (PI.  7),  now  a  magazine,  at  the  angle 
between  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle. 

The  *CliiirGh  of  St.  Castor  (PI.  18 ;  D,  1, 2),  founded  in  836,  dates 
in  its  present  form  chiefly  from  the  end  of  the  12th  cent. ,  and  was 
consecrated  in  1208.  It  is  a  Romanesque  basilica  with  four  towers, 
terminating  in  a  semicircular  apse  adorned  with  a  gallery  of  small 
columns,  and  presents  a  picturesque  appearance  from  the  Rhine ; 
but  from  the  quay  itself  it  is  concealed  by  the  town-wall.  The  W. 
portal  was  restored  in  1862  in  the  style  of  the  rest  of  the  building. 

The  *  Interior  (closed  in  the  middle  of  the  day),  62  yds.  long  and 
23  yds.  wide,  is  roofed  with  rich  Gothic  groined  vaulting,  which  was 
substituted  in  1498  for  the  originally  flat  ceiling.  The  Choir  is  richly 
decorated  with  gilding  and  paintings.  On  the  arch  is  the  Coronation  of 
Mary^  in  the  apse  the  Trinity  with  saints,  both  bv  Settegatt  (1849);  to 
the  right  the  Adoration  of  the  Child  by  Gasten  (1871).  Under  this  is 
the  Monument  of  Archbiihop  Werner  (d.  1418)  of  Treves,  in  a  Gothic  sar- 
oophagus-niche.  Opposite  (N.  side)  is  the  much  more  important  **  Monu- 
ment of  Arcfib.  Kuno  von  Falkenstein  (d.  1388  •,  see  p.  106),  also  in  a  Gothic 
sarcophagus-niche  with  fresco  (Adoration  of  the  Saviour,  on  the  right 
8t.  John  and  St.  Castor,  on  the  left  the  archbishop  kneeling,  Mary,  and 
Peter),  ascribed  to  the  old  master  Wilhelm  of  Cologne  (p.  28).  The  Tran- 
sept contains  sixteen  early  German  oil-paintings,  executed  about  1500. 
The  N.  Aisle,  with  frescoes  by  Kindler,  contains  a  modern  Monument  of 
St.  Riga,  who  according  to  tradition  was  a  daughter  of  Louis  the  PiouSr 


96    Route  16,  GOBLENZ.  Moselle  Bridge. 

To  the  W.  of  the  church  stands  the  OaBtor-Bnuuen  (PI.  6 ; 
D,  1),  erected  by  the  last  French  prefect  in  commemoration  of  the 
French  campaign  against  Russia,  with  the  inscription  :  'An  1S12. 
MSmoraJble  par  la  campagne  centre  lea  Russea.  Sous  le  prifecturat 
de  Jules  Docunan'.  The  Russian  general  St.  Priest ,  who  entered  the 
town  on  1st  Jan.,  1814,  with  exquisite  irony  added  the  words: 
'  Vu  et  approuvS  par  nous  Commandant  Russe  de  laville  de  Coblence. 
Le  I.Jan.  181 4\  —  Adjacent  to  the  Gastorplatz  is  the  General^ 
Commando  (PI.  10),  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Leyen.  Dur- 
ing the  French  regime  it  was  modernised. 

In  the  middle  ages  and  until  the  18th  cent.,  the  greater  part  of 
the  town  lay  on  the  Moselle ;  but  the  narrow,  crooked  streets  of 
that  period  which  are  still  extant  present  few  features  of  interest. 
The  (Prot.)  Florinskirehe  (PI.  19;  C,  2)  was  built  early  in  the 
12th  cent. ,  and  was  furnished  subsequently  with  a  Gothic  choir 
and  (in  1791)  spires  in  poor  taste.  The  adjoining  sacristan's  house 
contains  a  room  with  Romanesque  vaulting.  The  KauPiaus  (PI.  6), 
close  by,  was  built  in  1479  as  a  Rathhaus ;  restored  in  1688  (p.  95), 
it  is  now  used  for  a  commercial  school.  On  the  side  next  the 
Moselle  is  an  elaborate  jutting  story.  The iieft/Vauen&ircAe (Church 
of  Our  Lady ;  PI.  22 ;  B,  2),  or  chief  parish  church,  completed  in 
1431 ,  contains  modern  stained  glass  and  a  modern  Gothic  high- 
altar.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  first  Christian  church  built  at  Cob- 
lenz,  on  the  hill  on  which  lay  the  Roman  castrum. 

The  Moselle  Bridge  (PI.  B,  1)  with  its  14  arches,  erected  by 
Elector  Baldwin  about  1344,  restored  in  1440  (tower  added  in  1832), 
and  widened  in  1884,  commands  a  line  view  of  Ehrenbreitstein. 
As  the  town  is  re-entered,  the  ancient  Burg  (PI.  3;  B,  2),  or 
Archiepiscopal  Palace^  built  in  1276,  stands  on  the  left.  The  fine 
staircase  of  the  tower  next  the  town  dates  from  1599.  It  was  a  fav- 
ourite residence  of  Elector  Lothar  of  Metternich,  who  here  founded 
the  Roman  Catholic  League  in  1609;  it  is  now  a  manufactory. 

The  spacious  and  regular  Nbustadt,  the  S.  part  of  the  town, 
with  its  large  open  squares  planted  with  lime -trees,  owes  its 
foundation  in  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  to  Clemens  Wenceslaus, 
the  last  elector  of  Treves  (see  below).  —  The  busy  Rhein-Str.  (PI. 
D.2)  leads  from  the  river  to  thePARADB-PLATz(Pl.  0,2),  in  which 
rises  a  *Momiment  to  General  vonG6ben(Pl.  38;  b.  1816,  d.  1880), 
with  a  statue  modelled  by  Fr,  Schaper.  The  Post-Str.  leads  hence 
past  the  Post-Office  (PI.  30),  in  the  Renaissance  style,  to  the 
Clbmbns-Platz  (PI.  C,  3),  the  centre  of  which  is  embellished  with 
an  Obelisk,  commemorating  the  construction  in  1791  of  the  aque- 
duct which  supplies  the  town  with  water  from  the  heights  of 
Metternich,  21/2  M.  distant.  To  the  W.  is  the  Theatre  (V\.  37), 
built  at  the  end  of  last  century ,  and  containing  a  small  Picture 
Gallery,  with  a  few  old  paintings  of  the  Netherlands  School  (Sun. 
11-1).    At  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  square  is  the  handsome  Espen- 


Palace.  COBLENZ.  16.  Route,    97 

sehiedsche  Haus.  —  The  road  to  the  £.,  passing  the  Fesiungsbauhof 
(PL  9),  leads  to  the  Holz-Thor  (see  below).  Adjacent  are  the  Re- 
gierunysgebaude  (PI.  32),  or  government -offices,  and  the  new 
Courts  of  Justice  (1^1,  S;  Dicastertalgebaude),  two  large  buildings 
in  the  German  Renaissance  style. 

The  Palaee  (PI.  D,  4) ,  a  large  building  of  no  architectural 
merit,  with  a  lofty  Ionic  portico,  was  erected  by  Clemens  Wenceslaus 
(p.  170),  last  Elector  of  Treves,  in  1778-B6,  and  occupied  by  him 
till  1794.  The  French  converted  it  into  a  hospital  and  a  barrack.  It 
was  afterwards  restored  by  the  Prussian  government,  and  fitted  up  as 
a  palace  in  1845.  The  N.  wing  (on  the  left  as  the  visitor  approaches) 
contains  the  Palaee  Chapel,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  used  as  the 
Protestant  church  of  the  garrison.  Over  the  altar  is  a  large  copy  of 
Leonardo  da  Vinci's  ^Last  Supper'.  Adjoining  it  is  the  English  Chapel, 
which  was  liberally  dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  English  residents 
by  the  Princess  of  Prussia,  now  the  Empress  of  Germany  (chaplain 
supported  by  voluntary  contributions).  The  upper  .apartments,  to 
which  a  broad  staircase  ascends,  are  occupied  in  summer  by  the  Em- 
press (visitors  ring  for  the  castellan  in  the  lower  corridor  of  the  N. 
wing,  near  the  entrance  to  the  chapel;  fee  1  m.,  more  for  a  party). 

The  Electoral  Hall  contains  portraits  of  the  last  Electors  of 
Treves,  from  Richard  y.  Greiffenklau  (1511-31)  to  Clemens  Wenceslaus 
(1768>1802);  an  album  with  portraits  of  distinguished  persons  connected 
with  the  town  of  Coblens  from  1792  to  1866,  Ac.  \  and  the  writing-table  of 
Frederick  the  Great.  In  the  large  Fbstsaal  are  busts  of  the  royal  fam- 
ily 5  that  of  the  empress  was  modelled  by  the  crown-princess  Victoria.  — 
Several  of  the  other  apartments  contain  specimens  of  work  done  by 
the  empress,  her  daughter  the  grand-duchess  of  Baden,  and  her  daughter- 
in-law  the  crown-princess;  also  portraits  of  the  royal  family.  Gobelins 
tapestry  presented  by  Louis  XVI.  to  Frederick  the  Great,  several  modern 
pictures  by  Deschwanden,  Settegast,  4ec.,  and  gifts  presented  by  the  Rhenish 
towns  on  the  occasion  (1864)  of  the  ^silver  wedding-day'  (26th)  of  the  pre- 
sent emperor.  All  these  rooms  afford  fine  views  of  the  Rhine,  the  hills  of 
Pfaffendorf,  and  Ehrenbreitstein. 

The  handsome  S.  gates,  the  Mainzer-Thor  (PI.  C,  4)  and  Lohr- 
Thor  (PI.  A,  B,  3),  serve  as  barracks.  The  glacis  to  the  left,  out- 
side the  Mainzer-Thor,  leads  in  5  mln.  to  the  Rhine  Promenade 
(see  below).  Near  the  Mainzer-Thor,  within  the  town,  is  the  approach 
to  the  ^Bhenish  Bailwaj  Bridge  (PI.  D,  E,  4,5)  over  the  Rhine, 
built  in  1862-64,  an  elegant  structure  of  three  iron  arches,  each  with 
a  span  of  106  yds.,  resting  on  massive  stone  buttresses,  and  com- 
manding a  beautiful  view.  A  walk  across  this  bridge  and  back  by 
the  bridge-of-boats  is  strongly  recommended ;  and  the  Asterstein 
may  also  be  ascended  (p.  100). 

At  the  Holz-  Thor  (PI.  D,  3)  begins  the  beautiful  *B]iine  Pro- 
menade (PI.  C,  5,  6^,  extending  along  the  river  nearly  as  far  as 
the  Laubbaeh  (p.  98).  These  grounds  (Rhein-ArUagen) ,  which 
were  tastefully  laid  out  under  the  auspices  of  the  Empress  Augusta, 
should  be  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  charming  views  they  command. 
From  the  Hotels  on  the  Rhine  a  footpath  leads  due  S.,  through 

Baedbkkr's  Rhine.  10th  Edit.  7 


98     Route  16,  COBLENZ.  Environs, 

the  court  of  the  custom-house  (PL  D,  3;  flnger-post)  to  the  Holz- 
Thor.  —  From  the  Mainzer-Thor,  see  p.  97.  —  There  is  a  direct 
route  from  the  Mosdbahnhof  {JPl,  A,  5;  p.  93):  after  a  few  yards 
in  the  direction  of  the  town  we  cross  the  railway,  turn  to  the  right, 
and  continuing  to  the  E.  along  the  road  from  the  Karthause  (see 
helow),  pass  a  chapel  and  then  the  drill-ground  (comp.  PI.  B,  C,  5), 
and  reach  (V2  M.)  the  Trinkhalle  (see  below). 

Beyond  the  Holz-Thor  we  pass  under  the  railway-bridge,  above 
which,  to  the  left,  at  the  end  of  the  glacis  (Y4  M.  from  the  Mainzer- 
Thor,  see  above),  rises  a  lofty  Column^  with  an  inscription  com- 
memorating the  construction  of  the  bridge.  On  the  right  is  a  bust 
of  the  poet  Max  von  8ehenkendorf  (V\.  33;  D,  4),  who  died  at  Cob- 
lenz  In  1817.  Farther  from  the  town  a  number  of  villas  and  summer- 
houses  extend  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  Among  them  is  a  caf^ 
called  the  Trinkhalle  (PI.  C,  5 ;  p.  94J.  The  grounds  terminate  op- 
posite the  island  of  Oberwerth  (p.  101  j,  IV2M.  from  the  Holz-Thor, 
at  the  point  where  the  Berlin  and  Metz  railway  crosses  the  arm  of 
the  river  between  the  island  and  the  mainland  by  an  embankment. 

The  ^Bailwaj  Bridge  (^Staatsbahn-Brucke'),  which  spans  the 
wider  arm  of  the  river,  between  Oberwerth  and  the  E.  bank,  was 
constructed  by  Altenloh  in  1877-79,  and  is  1300  ft.  long.  It  con- 
sists of  three  brick  arches,  each  80  ft.  in  span,  and  of  two  light  and 
elegant  iron  arches,  each  with  a  span  of  350  ft.  Except  at  night  and 
during  very  foggy  or  stormy  weather  it  is  open  to  pedestrians,  who 
enjoy  from  it  an  admirable  *View  in  all  directions.  The  bridge 
reaches  the  E.  bank  at  the  lower  end  of  Horchheim  (p.  101),  1/2  M. 
below  the  station  of  the  Right  Rhenish  railway  at  the  upper  end 
(p.  199),  and  IY2  M.  above  the  bridge-of-boats  at  Coblenz. 

Beyond  the  embankment  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Promenade 
(see  above)  a  pleasant  path  leads  along  the  river  to  the  (Y2  M.) 
mouth  of  a  small  valley ,  in  which  lies  the  hydropathic  establish- 
ment of  Latibbach('pens.'  5,  R.  from  I72  inO»  ^^'  ^^^^  theMainzer- 
Thor  by  the  high-road  (carr.,  see  p.  94).  Beyond  the  garden  of  this 
establishment  the  Coblenzer  Stadtwald  extends  along  the  base  of 
the  Kiihkopf  (see  below).  —  Another  footpath,  turning  to  the  left 
at  the  entrance  to  the  valley  and  again  to  the  left  beyond  the  build- 
ings, leads  to  the  (Y4  hr.)  ^Bittersturz ,  a  hill  laid  out  with  pro- 
menades (refreshments)  and  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  Cob- 
lenz and  Ehrenbreitstein,  Lahneck,  Marksburg  and  Stolzenfels. 

A  path  from  the  Bittersturz  gradually  ascends  through  wood  and 
crossing  the  Hunsriicken  road,  in  40-50  min.  to  the  top  of  the  *Kflhkopf 
(1280  ft. ;  IVz  hr.  from  Coblenz),  which  commands  an  imposing  view, 
embracing  the  Rhine  and  Moselle,  the  volcanic  peaks  of  the  Vorder  Eifel  (1.), 
and  the  hills  enclosing  the  valley  of  the  Rhine.  We  descend  by  (1  hr.) 
Capelleny  returning  first  to  the  Hunsriicken  road,  which  we  follow  for  a 
short  distance  to  the  right,  then  turning  to  the  left  by  the  road  (finger- 
post) past  StoUtnfeU  (p.  102). 

The  Karthausey  rising  above  the  Mostlbahnhof  (JS\,  A,  5),  also 
commands  a  fine  view,  but  its  popularity  has  waned  since  the  laying 


EHRENBREITSTEIN.  16.  RouU,     99 

oat  of  the  promenades  on  the  Rittersturz.  The  hill,  on  whioh  are 
situated  Fort  Alexander  (at  the  top)  and  Fort  Constantirhe^  derives 
its  name  from  an  ancient  Carthusian  monastery.  The  road  to  the 
Hunsrucken  crosses  the  railway  by  a  viaduct  immediately  beyond 
the  station  and  ascends  along  the  hill-side.  The  plateau,  V/^  ^• 
from  Coblenz,  employed  as  a  military  drilling-ground,  was  occupied 
by  an  encampment  of  10,000  French  prisoners  of  war  in  1870-71. 
Their  cemetery  is  on  the  W.  side,  in  the  direction  of  MoselwelB. 

At  the  foot  and  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  Karthause  is  the  pictur- 
esque Cemetery  (PI.  A ,  5) ,  where  repose  the  remains  of  Max  v, 
Schenkendorf  (ji,  98)  and  General  von  Ooben  (p.  96). 

Beyond  the  Moselle  Bridge  rises  the  Fetenberg,  a  slight  emi- 
nence crowned  by  Fort  Franz.  At  the  E.  base  of  the  fort,  V2  ^• 
from  the  Moselle  bridge  (see  Map  of  Environs),  rises  a  blunted  py- 
ramid of  lava  to  the  memory  of  General  Mareeau,  who  fell  at  Alten- 
kirchen  in  1796,  with  a  long  French  inscription  (^ioldat  ii  16  ana, 
giniral  b.  22  awi*).  His  monument  and  remains  were  originally  on 
the  hill,  but  on  the  construction  of  the  fortifications  by  Fred. 
William  III.  were  removed  to  their  present  site.    Byron's  lines  — 

*By  Coblenz,  on  a  gentle  rise  of  ground, 

There  is  a  small  and  simple  pyramid, 

Crowning  the  summit  of  the  verdant  mound  \ 

Beneath  its  base  are  heron's  ashes  hid. 

Our  enemy,  —  but  let  not  that  forbid 

Honour  to  Harceau!^  Ac. 
refer  to  the  monument  in  its  original  position.     The  French  sol- 
diers who  died  in  the  prisoners'  camp  on  the  Petersberg  in  1870-71 
are  interred  on  the  slopes  behind  the  monument. 

EhrenbreititeiiL  and  Aiterstein. 

Cards  of  admission  to  Ehrenbreitstein  (60  pf.  each,  proceeds  destined 
for  charitable  purposes)!  may  be  procured  in  summer  (Ist  Ap.  -  31st  Oct.) 
at  the  office  of  the  second  commandant  (PI.  40;  E,  2).  Visitors  are  received 
at  the  top  and  conducted  over  the  fortress  by  a  sergeant.  Two  hours 
suffice  for  the  walk  from  Coblenz  to  the  summit  and  back. 

View  from  the  Asterttein  (p.  100)  similar  to  that  from  Ehrenbreitstein. 
No  permission  necessary. 

ABridge-of-Boat9(FL  D,£,2),  about  400  yds.  in  length,  connects 
Coblenz  with  Thai  Ehrenbreitstein  (Hdtel  zur  Schonen  Ausshhtjy 
a  small  town  with  5300  inhab.,  prettily  situated  in  a  valley  bet\\een 
the  heights  crowned  with  the  fortresses  of  Ehrenbreitstein  and  Aster- 
stein.  Along  the  river  runs  the  unsightly  embankment  of  the  R'ght 
Rhenish  Railway  (to  Vallendar,  Bendorf,  etc. ;  see  p.  74). 

The  road  to  the  fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  leads  through  the 
Hof-Strasse,  in  which,  to  the  left,  is  the  Office  of  the  Commandant 
(PI.  40),  recognisable  by  its  ilight  of  steps  (tickets,  see  above).  The 
last  house  in  the  street  on  the  same  side  was  once  occupied  by  M. 
de  la  Roche,  chancellor  of  the  electorate  of  Treves,  to  whom  Goethe 
paid  a  visit  in  1774.  Farther  on  are  the  Bailway  Station  (PI.  E,  2), 
and  a  handsome  Renaissance  building  (PI.  39),  erected  by  the  Elec- 

7* 


100  RouUie.  ASTERSTEIN. 

tors  in  1747  as  a  residence  for  the  governors,  now  used  as  a  Pro- 
vision Magazine,  Beyond  the  next  gate  the  road  diyerges  to  the 
right  and  ascends  the  hill  in  windings. 

Opposite  the  inflnx  of  the  Moselle  rises  the  majestic  fortress  of 
-  *Ehrenbreit8teini  sometimes  called  the  Oihraltar  of  the  Rhine,  sit- 
uated on  a  precipitous  rock,  387  ft.  ahove  the  Rhine,  and  573  ft. 
'  ahove  the  sea,  inaccesslhle  on  three  sides,  and  connected  with  the 
neighhouring  heights  on  the  N.  side  only.  The  massive  fortifica- 
tions, constructed  in  1816-26  hy  General  v.  Aster,  were  long  con- 
sidered a  marvel  of  military  engineering.  The  *View  from  the  top 
is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Rhine.  It  embraces  the  fertile  valley  of 
the  Rhine  from  Stolzenfels  to  Andemach,  and  the  numerous  vol- 
canic peaks  of  the  Maifeld  and  the  Elfel  (p.  90).  Far  below  are  the 
Rhine  and  Moselle,  and  between  them  the  triangulartown  of  Goblenz. 

Whether  this  important  military  point  was  fortified  by  the  Romans  is 
uncertain.  The  Ca$He  of  Ehrenbreitstein  ia  said  to  have  been  presented 
by  the  Frankish  king  Dagobert  to  the  archbishops  of  Treves  in  636,  and 
their  possession  was  confirmed  by  Emp.  Henry  II.  in  1018.  As  it  afforded 
them  an  excellent  asylum  in  troublous  times,  they  repeatedly  strengthened 
and  extended  it,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  12th  cent,  their  comman- 
dant added  the  HilUiMtein,  or  Helfenstein,  a  castle  on  the  lower  S.  pro- 
jection of  the  rock,  which  last  name  exists  down  to  the  present  day. 

In  the  15th,  16th,  and  17th  centuries  the  castle  was  gradually  converted 
into  an  extensive  and  powerful  stronghold  j  and  so  important  was  it  con- 
sidered that  its  commandant  had  to  swear  allegiance  to  the  emperor  as 
well  as  to  the  princes  of  the  country.  The  fortress  has  only  thrice  suc- 
cumbed to  an  enemy.  On  the  first  of  these  occasions  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  French  in  1631  through  the  treachery  of  Elector  Philip  Chri$- 
topher.  In  1637  the  Imperial  general  Johann  von  Werth  invested  it  with 
his  troops,  and  the  garrison  was  forced  to  capitulate  through  hunger. 
During  the  war  of  the  French  Revolution,  Ehrenbreitstein  was  unsuccess- 
fully besieged  four  times,  but  on  27th  Jan.  1799  it  was  surrendered  by  the  gal- 
lant Col.  Faber  after  all  the  provisions  had  been  exhausted.  In  consequence 
of  the  Peace  of  Lundville  the  fortifications  were  dismantled.  In  accordance 
with  the  provisions  of  the  second  Peace  of  Paris,  15  million  fr.  were 
paid  by  the  French  to  Prussia  for  the  restoration  of  the  works,  but  up- 
wards of  24  million  marks  (1,200,0000  have  been  expended  on  them. 

*Fort  Asterstein,  situated  on  the  Pfaffendorfer  Hohe^  to  the  S. 
of  Ehrenbreitstein  ,  completes  the  fortifications  of  this  bank  of  the 
Rhine.  A  projecting  terrace  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  fort  bears  an 
Obelisk  (PI.  F,  4  j  fine  view)  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  of  the 
8th  army-corps  who  fell  in  the  campaign  of  1866.  The  Louisenthurm 
on  the  W.  slope  of  the  hill  derives  its  name  from  the  Grand-Duchess 
Louisa  of  Baden ,  daughter  of  the  Emperor  of  Germany ,  who  spent 
some  of  her  early  years  at  Coblenz.  —  The  hill  on  which  the  obe- 
lisk stands  may  be  reached  in  20  min.  from  the  bridge-of-boats. 
After  crossing  the  latter  we  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  to  the 
end  of  the  Kirch-Strasse  (see  PI.  F,  2),  and  follow  the  road  to  the 
right.  "Where  the  latter  turns  to  the  left,  a  shorter  route  ascends 
by  the  steps  to  the  right,  crosses  the  road  which  leads  up  from  the 
^Promenade'  (PI.  F,  3),  and  again  ascends  by  steps.  Half-way  up, 
the  Cafe  Rheinlustj  and  beyond  it  the  Louisenthurm  (see  above)  are 
uassed.  We  then  follow  the  road  to  the  summit. 


PFAFFENDOttF.  1 7.  RouU,     101 

The  following  route  U  recommended  to  the  traveller  approaching 
from  the  railway -bridge.  After  crossing  the  bridge  turn  to  the  right, 
following  the  road  to  Pfaffendorf,  and  here  take  the  road  to  the  left, 
past  the  church,  ascend  the  course  of  the  brook,  pass  to  the  left  under 
the  railway,  and  gradually  ascend  the  hill.  On  the  height  (1/4  hr.  from 
Pfattendorf  church)  this  road  is  quitted  by  a  new  road  intersecting  the  for- 
tifications of  the  Glockenberg  to  the  left  (see  Plan),  and  afterwards  skirt- 
ing the  brow  of  the  hill  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  Coblenz.  In 
12  min.  more  the  Obelisk  (see  above)  is  reached. 

The  post-road  which  ascends  the  valley  at  the  back  of  the  town  of 
Ehrenbreitstein  leads  by  Niederberg  to  (2  H.)  Ar«nb«rf  (Zur  BehdnenAuttieht)^ 
a  village  witii  a  large  new  pilgrimage-church,  the  stations  connected  with 
which  command  a  beautiful  view.  The  road  diverging  to  the  right  beyond 
Arenberg  passes  a  forester^s  house  and  leads  to  (v/t  M.)  Ems  (p.  200). 

17.  The  Ehine  from  Coblenz  to  Mayence. 

Steamboat  in  V/2  (down  in  4V4)  hrs.  \  piers  at  Oberlahnstein,  Boppard, 
St.  Goar ,  Bingen,  Budesheim,  Eltville,  and  Biebrich ;  tmall-boat  stations 
Capellen,  Spay,  Camp,  Hirzenach,  St.  Ooarshausen,  Oberwesel,  Gaub,  Bach- 
arach,  Lorch,  Niederheimbach,  Oeisenheim,  Oestrich,  and  Walluf  An 
omnibus  runs  from  Biebrich  to  Wiesbaden  in  connection  with  every  boat 
in  Vz  hr.,  fare  1  m.  —  From  Coblenz  to  Mayence  both  banks  are  Prussian. 
Distances:  Coblenz  to  Capellen  4.  Rhens  2,  Niederspay  (opposite 
Braubach)  1V«,  Boppard  4Vx,  Salzig  3,  Hirzenach  2V4,  St.  Goar  8>/4,  Ober- 
wesel 5Vs,  Caub  3,  Bacharach  iVz,  Bheindiebach  iVst  Lorch  (Niederheim- 
bach)  3/4}  Bheinstein  Sfi/u  Bingen  3,  Geisenheim  3,  Oestrich  3,  Eltville  4, 
Walluf  3,  Biebrich  2,  Mayence  4,  total  distance  59  M.  —  Railway  on 
the  Le/t  Bank  see  R.  19 ;  on  the  Riffht  Bank  by  Oberlahnstein  and  Budesheim 
to  Wiesbaden  in  2^4-3 Vs  ^rs.,  see  B.  20. 

Beyond  the  bridge-of-boats  the  steamer  passes  the  palace  on  the 
right,  and  then  steers  under  the  Rhenish  Railway  Bridge,  On  the 
right  extend  the  beautiful  promenades  of  the  W.  bank ,  opposite 
which  is  the  picturesque  village  of  Pfaffendorf  (^Thomm,  favourite 
summer  quarters,  'pens'.),  with  its  slender  church-spire. 

On  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  lies  the  island  of  Oherwerthj 
which  is  connected  with  the  W.  bank  by  an  embankment  and  with 
the  E.  by  the  handsome  Railway  Bridge  mentioned  at  p.  98,  below 
which  the  steamer  passes.  The  buildings  on  the  island,  now  pri- 
vate property,  belonged  to  a  nunnery  suppressed  by  the  French  in 
1798.  Beautiful  retrospect  as  the  yessel  pa'sses  the  upper  end  of 
the  island. 

The  vineyards  of  (1.)  Horchheim  (*HoUer8  Oarden-Restaurarit) 
produce  good  red  wine ;  the  plain  between  this  village  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Lahn  is  remarkably  fertile.  (1.)  Hiederlahnstein  (^Douqui, 
on  the  Lahn,  well  spoken  of ;  Noll;  Hermanny  Bender,  at  the  sta- 
tion ;  Bungartz,  all  with  gardens),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn,  is 
the  junction  of  the  Railway  of  the  Right  Bank,  the  line  to  Coblenz, 
and  the  Lahn  railway  (RR.  20,  27),  but  is  not  touched  at  by  the 
steamer.  From  the  road  ascending  the  Lahnthal  a  path  diverges 
to  the  left,  passing  several  shrines,  to  (V2  ^^0  *^®  *^P  ®^  *^® 
AUerheiligen''Bergy  which  commands  fine  views  of  the  valleys  of  the 
Lahn  and  the  Rhine.  Two  of  the  best  points  of  view  are  known  as 
the  'Lahnblick'  and  the  *Sch6ne  Aussicht'.    Below  Niederlahnstein 


102     Route  27.  STOLZENFKLS.  From  Coblenz 

at  the  mouth  of  the  Lahn,  stands  the  solitary  late-Romanesque 
Church  of  8t.  John^  partly  destroyed  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War, 
hut  rescued  from  total  ruin  in  1857.  The  village  is  said  once  to 
have  extended  as  far  as  this  point,  when  this  venerahle  building 
wag  its  parish-church.  The  Lahn  is  crossed  near  its  mouth  by  an 
unsightly  railway-bridge,  and  by  another  for  the  traffic  of  the  road. 

r.  Capellen.  —  Hotels.  *Stolzbnf£ls,  *Bsllbvue  or  Fbt,  both  with 
gardens  and  ^pension".  —  Lahnegk,  unpretending.  —  MUller'^s  Restaurant. 

Carriage  to  Coblenz,  see  p.  94.  —  clmall  Boat  to  Coblenz,  3  m. 

Donkey  to  the  Castle  of  Stolzenfels  80  pf.  i  there  and  back  1  m.  20  pf. 

Steamboat  to  Oberlahnstein  every  hour  (20,  10  pf.),  starting  above  the 
station. 

Capellen,  a  village  consisting  of  a  single  row  of  houses  facing 
the  railway- embankment  and  the  river,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  wood- 
ed hill  which  bears  the  royal  chiLteau  of  Stolzenfels.  The  chllteau 
is  approached  by  a  winding  road  of  easy  ascent  (I/4  hr.),  crossing  a 
viaduct,  and  passing  two  Roman  mile-stones.  Beyond  the  Klause 
(now  stabling),  a  drawbridge  is  crossed  and  the  castle  entered. 

The  *Ca8tIe  of  StolsenfelB  (310  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  with  a 
pentagonal  tower  110  ft.  high,  was  built  on  the  site  of  an  older  for- 
tress by  Arnold  von  Isenburg,  Archbishop  of  Treves,  in  1242-59, 
and  was  frequently  a  residence  of  the  archbishops.  Down  to  1689, 
when  it  was  destroyed  by  the  French,  it  was  garrisoned  by  the  Elec- 
tors of  Treves.  In  1823  the  ruin  was  presented  by  the  town  of 
Coblenz  to  Fred.  "William  IV.,  when  crown-prince,  who  caused  it  to 
be  restored  in  accordance  with  the  designs  of  Schirikely  StiUer,  and 
Persius.    The  chlteau  now  belongs  to  the  Emperor  of  Germany. 

The  Intebior  is  open  daily.  In  summer  the  number  of  visitors  is 
usually  very  large,  and  the  custodian  performs  his  functions  as  showman 
very  rapidly  (fee  50  pf.,  more  for  a  party). 

We  first  enter  the  Gothic  Chapel  with  its  two  towers.  It  is  decorated 
with  *  Frescoes  on  a  gold  ground  by  JB.  Deger^  representing  the  Crea- 
tion, Fall,  First  Sacrifices,  Ac.  —  On  the  external  wall,  above  the  gar- 
den-hall, is  a  fresco  by  Lannsky:  the  Emp.  Rupert  ana  his  nephew  the 
Count  of  HohenzoUern  visiting  the  Archbishop  of  Trfeves  at  Stolzenfels, 
20th  Aug. ,  1400.  —  In  the  Wxntee  Gabdbn  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Sieg- 
fried, by  ffartung.  —  Adjoining  the  entrance  flight  of  steps  is  an  ancient 
sculptured  chimney-piece  with  reliefs,  bearing  the  arms  of  Cologne.  — 
The  walls  of  the  Kleine  Rittebsaal  are  embellished  with  six  *Frescoes, 
by  Professor  Stilke  of  Dusseldorf ,  illustrative  of  the  principal  attributes 
of  chivalry:  1.  Faith:  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  at  the  Holy  Sepulchre  after 
the  conquest  of  Jerusalem  \  2.  Justice :  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  sitting  in 
judgment  on  the  robber  knights ;  3.  Poetry:  Minstrels  accompanying  King 
Philip  of  Swabia  and  his  queen  Irene  on  a  pleasure  excursion  on  the 
Rhine ^  4.  Love:  The  Emp.  Frederick  II.  welcoming  his  bride  Isabella  of 
England;  5.  Loyalty:  Hermann  von  Siebeneichen ,  sacrificing  his  life  to 
save  the  Emp.  Fred.  Barbarossa;  6.  Bravery:  The  blind  King  John  of  Bo- 
hemia at  the  battle  of  Cr^cy.  —  The  Gbossb  Rittebsaal  contains  a  valu- 
able collection  of  goblets,  armour,  and  weapons.  —  In  the  Uppbb  Rooms 
a  winged  picture  of  the  tradition  of  Toggenburg  by  Bayer  \  Gutenberg,  at 
three  different  periods,  by  Herhig ;  a  copy  of  the  Dombild  of  Cologne 
(p.  32)  by  Beckenkamp ;  pictures  on  a  gold  ground  by  Heideloffy  represent- 
ing the  altar  of  the  order  of  the  swan  at  Ansbach ;  about  50  small  pic- 
tures by  old  masters,  DUrer^  Holbein^  Van  Dycky  Rembrandt^  and  others,  an 
ancient  Byzantine  cross,  antique  furniture,  and  other  curiosities. 


toMaymce.  LAHNECK.  17.  Route,     103 

The  **ViBW,  which  Is  enjoyed  to  greatest  peifection  from  the 
small  S.W.  tower  (entrance  to  the  right  in  the  court),  is  scarcely 
equalled  by  any  other  on  the  Rhine. 

To  the  S.  rifiea  the  castle  of  Marksburg,  with  Braubaeh  and  Rhens  he- 
low.  In  front  of  us  is  the  castle  of  Lahneek^  looking  down  on  the  grey 
towers  and  walls  of  0berla?Mtt9in.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Lahn  is  Jfte- 
derlahnttein,  and  farther  up  the  Lahn  valley  rises  the  Allerhtiligenbtrg^ 
with  its  pilgrimage-chapel.  At  the  confluence  of  the  Lahn  and  Rhine  stands 
the  Romanesque  Church  of  8t.  John.  Farther  down  the  Rhine  is  the  is- 
land of  Oberwerth,  which  is  traversed  by  the  new  Railway  Bridge ;  beyond 
it,  the  three  arches  of  the  old  railway -bridge.  In  the  background  the 
fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  objects  j  oppo- 
site to  it  is  Fort  Conttantine,  and  between  them  Ccblenx;  farther  distant 
the  heights  of  Vallendar, 

Two  bridle-paths,  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  Stolzenfels  road 
(one  at  the  viaduct  mentioned  at  p.  102  and  the  other  above  the  castle), 
lead  to  the  *Auguatahdhe ,  a  turf-hut  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of 
Stolzenfels  and  the  Rhine  (there  and  back  IV4  hr. ;  donkey  2  m.)> 

1.  OberlaliBiteixi  (200  ft. ;  *H6tel  WelUr,  *H6tel  Lahneck,  both 
with  garden  and  view,  also  'pension' ;  Wetland,  opposite  the  rail. 
Stat. ;  Deutsches  Haas ;  steamboat  hourly  to  Gapellen,  20  or  10  pf.), 
a  very  ancient  town  with  about  5800inhab.,  formerly  belonging 
to  the  Electors  of  Mayence,  and  mentioned  in  a  charter  as  early 
as  890,  is  surrounded  with  well-preserved  walls,  towers,  and 
fosses,  which,  notwithstanding  the  sad  havoc  committed  by  the 
railway,  still  afford  some  idea  of  the  appearance  of  a  fortified  town 
of  the  middle  of  the  14th  century.  The  handsome  Sehloas  Martiru- 
burg  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  containing  an  interesting  court, 
onoe  a  residence  of  the  Electors  of  Mayence,  dates  from  1394 ;  the 
new  part  was  built  in  1712.  The  Protestant  Churchy  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  town,  was  built  by  Zais  in  1872-75.  Two  engine-works  and 
foundries  and  several  other  manufactories  bear  witness  to  the  rapid 
progress  of  Oberlahnstein  since  the  completion  of  the  railways.  It 
is  also  a  busy  dep6t  of  the  iron-ores  yielded  by  the  mines  on  the 
Lahn  (comp.  p.  200),  and  possesses  a  large  new  harbour.  Ober- 
lahnstein is  the  steamb.  stat.  for  Ems  and  is  a  good  centre  from 
which  to  make  excursions. 

On  a  rocky  eminence  behind  Oberlahnstein  rises  the  picturesque 
castle  of  *Lalmeck|  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  1224,  having 
probably  been  built  by  Archbishop  Gerhard  of  Mayence.  Accord- 
ing to  an  unfounded  tradition ,  it  was  once  in  possession  of  the 
Knights  Templar.  The  castle,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1689 ,  has  been  recently  restored  with  considerable  taste.  The 
pentagonal  pinnacled  tower  commands  a  charming  view,  for  which 
the  morning  light  is  most  favourable.  Gothic  chapel.  On  seeing  the 
ruin  in  1774  Goethe  composed  his  exquisite  'Geistes  Gruss'.  A 
road  and  two  footpaths  ascend  to  the  castle;  one  of  the  paths,  de- 
ttitute  of  shade,  mounts  direct  from  Oberlahnstein,  the  other  from 
she  side  next  the  Lahn,  beginning  opposite  the  upper  end  of  Nie- 
dertahnstein  (p.  101). 

About  ly*  ^*  *^ove  Capellen,  between  the  high-road  and  th^ 


104     Route  17,  BKAUBACH.  From  CobUnz 

Rhine,  is  the  Kdniyiitnlil  (*king*8  seat'),  partly  concealed  by 
walnut-trees  from  the  steamboat  -  passenger.  It  was  originally 
erected  in  1376  by  theEmp.  Charles  lY.,  but  at  the  end  of  last 
century  had  fallen  to  decay.  In  1843  it  was  rebuilt,  partly  out 
of  the  old  materials,  by  a  patriotic  society  at  Coblenz.  The  struc- 
ture Is  octagonal  in  shape,  somewhat  resembling  a  pulpit,  22  ft.  In 
diameter,  and  18  ft.  in  height.  The  Electors  held  their  meetings 
on  the  stone  seat  on  the  top.  The  situation  was  chosen  from  its 
proximity  to  the  dominions  of  the  four  Rhenish  Electors  ,  Braubach 
belonging  to  the  Palatinate,  Rhens  to  Cologne,  Stolzenfels  to  Treves, 
and  Lahnstein  to  Mayence.  Here  many  emperors  were  elected, 
decrees  issued,  and  treaties  concluded.  Near  the  Konigsstuhl  is  the 
Bhenser  MintralqutUt,  a  mineral  spring  rising  in  the  bed  of  the 
Rhine ,  which  was  known  in  the  18th  cent,  and  re-discoTered  in 
1857 ;  the  water  resembles  that  of  Selters  and  is  used  as  a  table- 
beverage  as  well  as  medicinally. 

On  the  fertile  bank  of  the  Rhine  opposite  the  Kdnigsstuhl,  a 
small  white  chapel ,  near  the  S.  gate  of  Oberlahnstein ,  is  visible 
among  the  trees ,  where ,  on  20th  Aug.,  1400,  the  Rhenish  Electors 
deprived  the  Bohemian  king  Wenzel  of  the  imperial  crown.  On  the 
following  day  they  crossed  to  the  Kdnigsstuhl ,  and  elected  Count 
Palatine  Rupert  III.  emperor  in  his  stead.  Adjacent  is  the  Victoria" 
hrufhnefh^  another  mineral  spring. 

Above  the  Kdnigsstuhl  (3/4  M.)  lies  the  small  town  of  (r.)Blieiui 
{Konigsstuhl^  with  garden,  on  the  river;  Stem^  in  the  town),  once 
belonging  to  the  Electorate  of  Cologne,  and  still  surrounded  by  the 
walls  and  fosses  constructed  in  1870  by  Archbishop  Frederick  111. 
of  Cologne.  A  footpath  to  (1  hr.)  Boppard  ascends  to  the  right  at 
the  way-post,  outside  the  S.  gate  (comp.  p.  106).  On  the  bank  of 
the  river,  1  M.  above  Rhens,  is  a  cotton-mill  with  a  tall  chimney. 
Beyond  it,  surrounded  by  fruit-trees,  is  the  small  village  of  (r.)  Brcj/. 

1.  Braubach  {Hotel  Arzbacher,  on  the  Rhine ;  Rheinischer  Hof, 
'pens.'  3^2*4 m. ;  NassauerHof;  Deutsches  Haus,  with  beer-garden, 
near  the  station,  R.  1  m.  20  pf. ;  all  good),  an  ancient  town  with  1841 
inhab.,  invested  with  municipal  privileges  by  the  Emp.  Rudolph  in 
1276,  the  once  picturesque  appearance  of  which  has  been  marred 
by  the  railway.  It  is  commanded  by  the  imposing  castle  of  ^Harks- 
burg  (Restaurant),  originally  called  the  Braubacher  Schloasy  485  ft. 
above  the  river,  the  only  old  fortress  on  the  Rhine  which  has  escaped 
destruction.  In  1437  Count  Philip  of  Katzenellenbogen  founded  a 
chapel  in  the  castle  and  dedicated  it  to  St.  Mark,  after  whom  the 
castle  has  since  been  named.  It  belonged  to  Hessen-Darmstadt  from 
1651  to  1803,  and  was  then  used  by  the  government  of  Nassau  as  a 
state-prison  down  to  1866.  The  summit  affords  a  pleasing  survey  of 
the  grassy  dales  at  the  back,  and  of  a  portion  of  the  Rhine.  Two 
routes  ascend  to  the  fortress :  to  the  N.  a  footpath,  shorter  but  steeper 
than  the  other,  beginning  opposite  the  old  church  (25  min.);  to  the 


to  Mayenee.  BOPPABD.  17.  BouU.     105 

S.  the  road,  leading  at  first  to  the  left  through  the  town  in  the 
direction  of  Nastatten,  then  to  the  right  past  the  ancient  Chapel  of 
8t,  Martin  (existing  in  1242),  and  lastly  round  the  £.  side  of  the  hill 
(35  mln.). 

Ths  Dachskopf.  In  the  fresh  green  valley  behind  the  town,  en- 
closed by  beautiful  wooded  hills,  a  road  gradually  ascends  to  a  (l^/j  H.) 
finger-post,  where  a  road  to  the  left  leads  to  Dachsenhauten.  We,  how- 
ever, take  the  road  to  the  right,  and  at  the  (2  H.)  top  of  the  hill  traverse 
the  pine- wood  to  the  right  in  the  direction  of  the  two  barren  summits, 
the  second  of  which  is  the  higher.  In  Vs  br.  more  we  reach  the  ^Dachakopf , 
an  eminence  with  a  trigonometrical  signal  for  surveyors,  commanding  an 
extensive  view  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  a  point  below  Andernach,  the  Eifel, 
the  Taanus.the  Seven  Hts.,  Ac.  A  good  road  descends  thence  to  (6  H.) 
Camp  (p.  1(77).  Those  who  are  not  disposed  for  so  long  a  walk  will  be 
rewarded  by  penetrating  about  iVs  M.  into  the  valley  behind  the  Marks- 
burg.  The  contrast  is  very  striking  when  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is 
quitted  by  the  narrow  rock-hewn  track  passing  the  chapel  of  St.  Hartinj 
parallel  to  the  Rhine,  and  also  leading  to  the  castle. 

To  Ems.  From  Braubach  a  road  leads  over  the  hills  to  the  (7Vz  M.) 
Baths  of  Emb  (p.  200),  passing  OoldiehmidVi  Foundry  and  (3  H.)  the  Oher- 
lahnsUiner  Fortthaw  (refreshments),  1  M.  from  FrOehi  (p.  206).  Fine  view 
of  Dausenau  and  the  valley  of  the  Lahn  in  descending. 

To  Wblmich.  The  first  valley  above  Braubach  contains  the  Dinkholder 
Brunnen  (see  below)  \  the  second  is  traversed  by  a  path  which  ascends  the 
hill,  commanding  a  fine  view ,  and  leads  to  Welmich  (TVs  H.),  paasing  the 
village  of  /^*a<A,  and  emerging  from  the  wild  and  rocky  ravine  at  the 
back  of  Welmich  near  the  'House'  (p.  108). 

Above  Braubach  are  the  (r.)  villages  of  Niederspay  and  Oberspay 
(Rindsfiisser),  connected  by  an  avenue  of  walnut- trees.  On  the 
promontory  to  the  right  stands  a  half-ruined  chapel,  the  only  relic 
of  the  village  of  Peter  spay.  The  pleasant  valley  on  the  opposite 
bank  contains  the  Dinkholder  Brunnen,  a  chalybeate  spring  similar 
to  those  at  Schwalbach ;  the  bath-house  is  yisible  from  the  steamer. 

On  the  wooded  height  above  (1.)  Osterspay  (Miiller's  Inn)  stands 
the  ch^ateau  of  Liebeneck,  one  of  the  prettiest  spots  on  the  Rhine. 

Fbom  Libbsnbgk  to  Gamp  (p.  107) ,  the  shortest  route  is  by  a  path 
traversing  the  lofty  table-land  beyond  the  chateau,  and  commanding  a  strik- 
ing view  from  its  S.  margin. 

On  the  hill  to  the  right,  a  little  above  Osterspay,  stands  the 
Jacobsberger  Hof,  a  farm-house  523  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  whence  a 
cart-road  leads  to  Rhens,  3  M.  distant,  cutting  off  the  circuit  of 
6  M.  formed  by  the  river.  The  vineyards  on  the  slopes  of  the  left 
bank,  known  as  the  Bopparder  Hamm,  produce  excellent  wine. 
Then,  on  the  left,  the  village  of  Filzenj  with  a  modern  church. 

r.  Boppard.  —  Hotels.  Spiegel,  E.  2'/2,  D.  2V2>  B.  1  m. ;  Rhein- 
HdTBL,  similar  charges  j  Hibsch,  cheaper,  good  wine^  Ebone,  Ackermann, 
unpretending;  these  five  on  the  Rhine;  Glosmanm,  an  old  established  house 
in  the  town,  with  garden,  D.  2  m.  —  Henttler^s  Pennon,  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  Miihlthal. 

Hydropathic  Establishments.  Mabiembebo  (p.  106),  'pens'.  6-12  m.  per 
day;  HGhlbad,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town.  —  Comp.  the  Map. 

Boppard  (210  ft.),  the  ancient  Bondobrica,  founded  by  the  Celts, 
was  afterwards  fortified  by  the  Romans  and  used  as  a  dep6t  for  their 
^alingers'  (*Balistarii  Bondobrica').  In  the  12th  cent.  Boppard  was 
a  free  imperial  town,  but  in  1312  Emp.  Henry  VII.  ceded  it,  alon^ 


106    Route  n,  BOPPARD.  From  Coblm% 

with  Oberwesel ,  to  his  brother  Elector  Baldwin  of  Treves.  The 
latter,  who  could  not  make  himself  master  of  the  town  till  1318, 
built  the  castle,  which  is  still  preserred  (see  below).  All  efforts  of 
the  inhabitants  to  regain  their  independence  proyed  henceforth 
unayailing.  This  pleasant  little  town,  above  which  rises  the  hand* 
some  old  nunnery  of  Marienberg,  has  of  late  attracted  numerous 
visitors  owing  to  the  beauty  and  healthiness  of  its  situation.  Many 
of  the  picturesque  old  houses  with  their  quaint,  wooden  beams 
have  unfortunately  been  displaced  by  modern  buildings,  while 
numerous  villas  have  sprung  up  in  the  environs.   Pop.  5600. 

The  handsome  Pfarrkirche,  in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  found- 
ed early  in  the  13th  cent.,  and  rebuilt  about  1200,  with  its  two 
square  towers  adjacent  to  the  choir,  is  remarkable  for  the  peculiar 
*Norman'  vaulting  of  the  nave.  —  The  Carmcliterkirehe,  in  the 
pointed  style,  contains  the  monument  of  a  Countess  von  Eltz  (d. 
1500),  with  a  good  marble  relief  representing  the  Trinity,  and  carv- 
ed stalls  of  the  15th  century.  Several  old  mural  paintings  were 
discovered  during  the  restoration  of  the  church.  The  adjoining  con- 
vent is  used  as  a  school. 

In  an  open  space  on  the  Rhine,  to  the  E.  of  the  church  and  near 
the  ferry,  rises  the  old  Castle  of  the  archbishops  of  Treves,  with  a 
tower,  now  occupied  by  law-courts  and  a  school.  Beside  the  moat, 
close  by,  are  considerable  remains  of  a  Wall  constructed  of  Roman 
concrete  ('opus  spicatum'),  and  probably  dating  from  the  reign  of 
Valentinian  I.  (A.D.  364-375).  When  complete  it  was  10  ft.  thick 
and  26  ft.  high,  and  was  strengthened  with  towers  at  the  angles 
and  24  semicircular  towers  along  its  sides,  and  enclosed  the  interior 
of  the  town,  in  the  form  of  a  rectangle  1050  ft.  in  length  by  490  ft. 
in  width. 

The  suppressed  Franciscan  Monastery  with  its  church  at  the  up- 
per end  of  the  town  has  been  converted  by  government  into  a  semi- 
nary for  Roman  Catholic  teachers.  —  Boppard,  like  St.  Goar  and 
Bacharach,  once  boasted  of  a  Lodge  of  the  Knights  Templar,  frag- 
ments of  which  with  round-arched  windows  lie  in  a  neighbouring 
side  street.  Knights  Templar  of  Boppard  are  mentioned  among  the 
crusaders  at  the  siege  of  Ptolemais  (1191).  —  The  old  monastery  of 
8t,  Martin  J  farther  to  the  E.  beyond  the  town,  now  a  reformatory 
for  Protestant  children,  was  seriously  damaged  by  fire  in  1884. 

The  Protestant  Church,  built  in  1851,  is  said  to  have  been  de- 
-sigued  by  Frederick  William  IV. 

The  Marienberg  (Mons  Btatat  Mariae  Virginis),  a  large  building 
which  rises  at  the  back  of  the  town,  100  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  for- 
merly a  Benedictine  nunnery ,  is  now  a  hydropathic  establishment. 
The  water  is  supplied  by  the  Orgelborn,  a  spring  renowned  for 
centuries  for  its  purity  and  unvarying  temperature. 

Below  Boppard ,  near  the  Miihlbad  (p.  105),  opens  the  MuM- 
thalf  a  valley  enclosed  by  wooded  hills  and  affording  a  number  of 


f^iT^Tii'^^^ 


'     ^*     ^ 


k>  Mayenee.  BORNHOFEN.  17.  Route.     107 

picturesque  walks.  One  of  the  finest  points  is  tlie  *Alte  Burg 
(960  ft.),  a  hill  at  the  mouth  of  the  yalley  (reached  by  ascending 
to  the  right),  which  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Near  it  is  the 
*  Vlerseenplatz',  or  ^place  of  the  four  lakes*,  whence  four  apparently- 
unconnected  parts  of  the  Rhine  are  visible.  Farther  up  the  Talley, 
beyond  the  Restaurant  ^  Pension  Hentzler  (p.  105),  is  the  Bopparder 
Stadtwald^  a  magnificent  forest  of  oaks  and  beeches ,  the  most 
interesting  points  in  which  are  indicated  by  way-posts ,  and  made 
accessible  by  paths  constructed  by  a  society  in  Boppard. 

The  finest  excursion  from  Boppard  is  to  the  'TlaekertahShe  (1673  ft. 
above  the  sea,  1486  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  5  H.  distant,  li/s  H.  to  the  left 
of  the  road  to  the  Hunsrticken,  which  mast  be  left  at  the  pine-wood,  soon 
after  passing  the  mile-stone  mafked  *7,4\  The  very  extensive  view  com- 
prises the  Seven  Hts.,  Eifel,  Hochwald,  Idar  and  Tannus,  and  Honrepos 
(p.  66).  From  the  E.  side  of  the  summit,  on  which  there  is  a  landmark, 
a  small  part  of  the  Rhine  is  visible  near  Bomhofen  (see  below).  A  few 
min.  walk  below  the  summit  are  several  poor  cottages,  in  the  highest  ot 
which  good  water  may  be  procured.  The  path  descending  to  (1  hr.)  Balxig 
(p.  106)  through  meadows  and  woods  cannot  be  missed.  The  traveller 
may  avail  himself  of  the  diligence  from  Boppard  to  Simmem  (9  a.m. ;  see 
p.  159)  as  far  as  the  point  where  the  road  to  the  Fleckertshohe  diverges. 
—  A  direct  footpath  leading  through  pleasant  woods  ascends  to  the  sum- 
mit in  IVs  hr.,  but  cannot  easily  be  found  without  a  guide. 

Fbom  Boppakd  to  Bbodenbagh,  on  the  Moselle,  10  H.,  carr.  in  2V8  hrs. 
(fare  20  m.).  The  new  road  ascends  the  Fravhach-Thal  (walkers  should 
quit  it  at  the  second  bend  and  follow  the  old  road  over  the  Kreuzberg), 
crosses  the  SabeUberff,  and  leads  through  the  Bttrbaeh-Thftl  to  (4V2  H.)  the 
Hunsriicken  road.  We  follow  this  to  the  right  to  (1  M.)  Bwhholz^  pass 
near  (IV4  M.)  Windhausen  (to  the  left),  and  reach  ^U  M.)  the  castle  of 
Sehdneekj  with  the  rained  RauiehentcMot*  in  the  background ;  >/«  M.  Hersch- 
wieien;  IV4  M.  path  ou  the  left  descending  to  the  Ehrtnburg;  U/z  M.  Bro- 
denbach^  see  p.  180. 

From  Boppard  to  Simmem  (p.  159),  22  H.,  diligence  daily  in  4'/4  hrs. 

Above  Boppard,  on  the  left,  lies  Camp  (^Kauth,  on  the  railway ; 
Ariker,  on  the  Rhine,  with  'pens.'),  so  called  from  the  remains  of  a 
supposed  Roman  intrenohment  on  the  hill ,  which  however  more 
probably  dates  from  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  village  is  healthily 
situated  and  frequented  as  a  summer-residence.  (Path  over  the 
hills  to  Liebeneck,  see  p.  105.)  A  road  shaded  with  walnut-trees 
leads  along  the  bank  from  Gamp  to  the  (3/4  M.)  convent  of  — 

1.  Bonkhaten{*Oa8ihoftumMarienberg,  'pension',  0.172^0) 
with  a  Gothic  church  erected  in  1435,  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims.  On 
a  bold  rocky  eminence  above  the  convent  stand  the  twin  castles  of — 

Sterrenberg  and  Liebensteiny  better  known  as  The  Brothers,  con- 
nected by  a  sharp  chine  of  rock.  The  legend  of  these  castles  may 
thus  be  briefly  told :  — 

Conrad  and  Heinrich,  sons  of  the  knight  Bayer  von  Boppard,  the  lord 
of  Liebenstein,  were  enamoured  of  their  foster-sister,  the  beautiful  Hilde- 
garde.  Heinrich  with  rare  generosity  tore  himself  away  and  joined  the 
crusades,  leaving  his  brother  Conrad  to  win  the  prize.  That  his  son  and 
the  fair  bride  might  still  be  near  him,  the  old  knight  built  the  castle  of 
Sterrenberg  for  their  reception,  hut,  his  death  occurring  before  its  com- 
pletion, the  nuptials  were  postponed.  Meanwhile  Conrad's  heart  grew  cold 
towards  Hildegarde.     Hearing  of  the  valiant  deeds  of  his  absent  brother, 


108     Route  17.  ST.  QOAK.  From  Coblenx 

his  soul  burned  to  share  his  honours,  and,  wearied  of  an  inactive  life,  he 
joined  the  crusades.  Hildegarde  now  passed  her  days  in  the  lonely  castle 
of  Liebenstein,  brooding  over  her  sad  lot,  not  doubting  the  affection  of 
Conrad,  but  weeping  over  the  uncertainty  of  his  return.  Suddenly  Conrad 
returned  to  Sterrenberg  with  a  lovely  Grecian  bride,  and  the  outraged  Hilde- 
garde ,  stunned  by  the  blow ,  shut  herself  up  in  the  loneliest  chamber  of 
her  dreary  abode,  and  refused  to  see  any  one  but  her  attendant.  Late 
one  evening  a  stranger  knight  demanded  the  hospitality  of  the  castle.  He 
proved  to  be  the  chivalrous  Heinricb,  who ,  hearing  of  his  brother''s  per- 
fidy, resolved  to  avenge  his  foster-sister's  wrongs.  He  accordingly  chal- 
lenged Conrad  to  single  combat,  but  before  the  brothers'*  swords  had  cross- 
ed, Hildegarde  interposed  between  them  and  insisted  on  a  reconciliation, 
to  which  they  reluctantly  consented.  Hildegarde  then  retired  to  the  con- 
vent of  Bornhofen,  at  the  base  of  the  rock  on  which  the  castles  stand.  Con- 
rad's Grecian  bride  soon  proved  faithless,  and  he,  overcome  with  shame 
and  remorse,  threw  himself  on  his  generous  brother's  breast,  exclaiming  that 
no  consolation  was  now  left  him  but  his  friendship.  Thus  their  estrange- 
ment ended,  and  the  brothers  thenceforth  lived  together  in  harmony  and 
retirement  at  Liebenstein,  while  Sterrenberg  was  for  ever  deserted. 

Sterrenberg  was  held  as  early  as  the  12th  cent,  as  a  fief  of  the 
empire  by  the  knights  of  Boland,  and  in  1317  came  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  Electors  of  Treves.  The  date  of  its  abandonment  is 
unknown.  It  lies  on  the  extreme  brink  of  the  rock,  separated  from 
Liebenstein  by  a  massive  wall.  The  ruins  are  interesting  and  com- 
mand a  fine  view  of  the  rocky  ravines  beneath  (restaurant). 

r.  Salzig  (Schloss  Liehensteln),  so  called  from  Its  weak  saline 
spring ,  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  orchard ,  whenoe  ship-loads  of 
cherries  are  annually  exported  to  the  Lower  Rhine ,  Holland ,  and 
England.   Farther  up  (1.)  lies  the  village  of  Nieder-Kestert  (Stern). 

r.  Hirzenach ;  at  the  upper  end  of  the  village  is  a  small  Gothic 
synagogue.  A  handsome  building,  once  a  deanery,  and  the  church, 
built  about  1170,  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Siegburg. 

To  the  right  are  the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Werlau  Mines, 
Above  is  the  Prinzenkopfchen,  with  a  view-pavilion. 

1.  Ehrenthal  is  a  small  village  Inhabited  by  miners  who  work 
the  lead-mines  In  the  vicinity. 

1.  Welmich  (Adler),  a  picturesquely-situated  village,  with  a 
small  Gothic  church,  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  Thum- 
herg,  or  Deureriburg.  This  stronghold ,  begun  by  Archbishop  Boe- 
mund  of  Treves ,  and  completed  in  1363  by  his  successor  Kuno  von 
Falkensteln,  was  derisively  called  the  ^Koose  (Maus)  by  the  C6unt8 
of  Katzenellenbogen,  in  contradistinction  to  their  *Oat'  (p.  110). 
Ascent  fatiguing,  but  there  is  a  fine  view  from  the  summit, 
especially  towards  St.  Goar.  The  interior  contains  a  few  points  of 
architectural  Interest.  (Path  over  the  hills  to  Braubaoh,  see  p.  105.) 

r.  St.  Goar  —  Hotels.  *Schn£id£b,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town ; 
Rheinfelb,  opposite  the  pier,  good  wine.  —  Lowe  ;  Tbaubb  ;  Zum  Kalten 
Kelleb,  these  three  unpretending.  —  Brewery  Zur  Roie,  with  garden 
restaurant. 

Steam-ferry  to  St.  Goarshausen,  10  pf. 

English  Ohuroh  Service  in  summer. 

8t.  Goar^  a  town  with  1450  inhab.,  the  handsomest  of  the  smal- 
ler Rhenish  towns,  and  deriving  a  look  of  additional  importance 


to  Mayenee,  RHEINFELS.  17.  Route,     109 

from  the  extensive  ruins  of  Rheinfels,  owes  its  name  and  origin 
to  a  ohapel  founded  in  the  time  of  Siegbert,  King  of  Austra8ia(570), 
by  St.  Goar,  who  preached  the  gospel  here,  and  whose  aid  was  after- 
wards often  invoked  by  distressed  boatmen.  Down  to  1794  it  was 
the  capital  of  the  lower  county  of  Katzenellenbogen ,  which  lay 
chiefly  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  reached  to  the  Lahn. 
(The  upper  county  lay  to  the  S.  of  the  Main,  p.  230.) 

The  Protestant  Church,  built  about  1468 ,  contains  monuments 
of  the  Landgrave  Philip  (d.  1583)  and  his  countess.  A  flaw  in  the 
altar  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  Gustavus  Adolphus  in  1632, 
who,  indignant  at  the  damage  done  to  the  church  by  the  Spaniards, 
violently  struck  the  altar  with  his  sword.  The  crypt  on  the  E.  side 
once  contained  the  bones  of  St.  Goar.  —  The  Roman  Catholic  church 
is  adorned  with  an  old  stone  efflgy  of  the  saint  with  an  inscription. 

A  curious  old  custom,  the  ^HdnseWy  or  Initiation,  which  prevailed 
here  till  the  beginning  of  the  steamboat-trafiic  in  1827 ,  is  said  to  have 
dated  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  Bvery  traveller  who  visited  the 
town  for  the  first  time  was  attached  to  a  ring  in  the  wall  of  the  Custom- 
house, and  obliged  to  submit  to  the  water  or  the  wine -ordeal.  If  the 
former  was  selected,  a  good  ducking  was  the  result;  the  pleasanter  alter- 
native consisted  in  drinking  a  goblet  of  wine  to  the  memory  of  Charle- 
magne, the  sovereign  of  England,  the  reigning  prince,  and  the  members 
of  the  society  which  enforced  obedience  to  the  custom.  The  traveller 
was  then  crowned  and  invested  with  the  rights  of  a  citizen  and  member 
of  the  society,  and  finally  had  to  present  a  donation  to  the  poor  and 
enter  his  name  in  the  ^Hanselbuch\ 

The  castle  of  ^Bheinfels,  rising  at  the  back  of  the  town,  377  ft. 
above  the  Rhine  (1/4  ^^*  ^'^m  the  pier),  is  the  most  imposing  ruin 
on  the  river.  It  was  founded  in  1245  by  Count  Diether  III.  of  Katzen- 
ellenbogen, a  friend  of  the  £mp.  Frederick  II.,  and  a  new  Rhine-toll 
was  established  here.  Ten  years  later  a  confederation  of  twenty-six 
Rhenish  towns  (p.  143),  dissatisfied  with  the  newly-imposed  burden, 
attacked  the  castle,  but  after  a  siege  of  fifteen  months  were  com- 
pelled to  withdraw.  In  1692  it  was  bravely  and  successfully  defended 
by  the  Hessian  General  von  Gorz  against  the  French  General  Count 
Tallard  with  an  army  of  24,000  men.  In  1758  the  castle  was  sur- 
prised and  taken  by  the  French,  who  kept  a  garrison  in  It  till  1763. 
Thirty  years  later  it  was  basely  deserted  by  the  Hessian  commandant, 
and  fell,  with  its  valuable  stores ,  into  the  hands  of  the  French  re- 
volutionary army  (2nd  Nov.,  1794).  Three  years  afterwards  it  was 
blown  up,  and  in  1812  it  was  sold  for  the  paltry  sum  of  100  Z.  The 
ruin  now  belongs  to  the  £mp .  of  Germany,  who  bought  it  in  1843 .  The 
interior  contains  little  worthy  of  note ;  view  limited.  The  custodian 
is  generally  at  or  near  the  castle  (fee  ^2-^  ™^- 1  more  for  a  party). 

The  *8pitzen8tein  (1315  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  1134  ft.  above  the 
Bhine),  a  hill  to  the  S.W.,  crowned  with  a  refuge-hut,  and  command- 
ing a  magnificent  view  from  Caub  to  Oberwesel,  may  be  ascended  from 
the  Rheinfels  via  Biebernheim  (I/4  hr. ;  or  by  a  zig-zag  path  direct  from 
the  railway  station  at  St.  Goar  in  25  min.)  in  1  hr.  Pleasant  descent  hy 
mederlnM'g  to  (1  hr.)  Oberwesel  (p.  112). 

1.  St.  Goarshaaien.  —  Hotels.  *Adlsb,  two  houses,  the  newer  of 
which  is  slight  and  noisy,  with  garden,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  21/2,  B.  1,  D.  21/2  m.. 


110    B0UU17.         ST.  GOARSHAUSEN.  From  Coblent 

^pens/  41/2  m.,  A.  d(  S.  extra,  carriage  to  Beichenberg  8  m.  —  Lamm, 
D.  2  m.,  opens'.  41/2  m. ;  Kbonbj  Zum  Hohemzollbb;  Nassaueb  Hof, 
B.  11/2}  I>.  2,  Opens'.  4  m.,  Well  spoken  of;  Bheiniscuee  Hof,  good  wine. 
—  Pension  Unziker^  dV2-6  m.,  well  spoken  of. 

Steam-ferry  to  St.  Goar,  10  pf. 

8t.  Ooarshausen  (715.  ft.  J,  a  small  town  with  1450  liihab., 
chiefly  consisting  of  a  single  row  of  new  houses,  is  a  pleasant  place 
for  a  stay  of  a  few  days.  The  upper  part  of  the  town  is  so  confined 
between  the  river  and  the  hill  that  a  bulwark  of  masonry,  on 
which  two  watch-towers  are  situated,  had  to  be  built  at  an  early 
period  to  protect  the  town  against  inundations.  The  new  Pro- 
testant church  in  the  round-arch  style  was  completed  in  1863.  There 
is  a  good  school  for  boys  here.    Gomp.  the  Map,  p.  107. 

Above  St.  Goarshausen,  about  halfway  up  the  hill,  rises  the 
castle  of  Neu-Katzenellenbogenj  commonly  called  the  Cat  (Katz), 
erected  in  1393  by  Count  Johann  of  Katzenellenbogen,  whose  family 
became  extinct  in  1470.  It  then  belonged  to  the  Hessian  princes, 
and  was  occupied  by  a  Hessian  garrison  down  to  1804,  when  it  was 
destroyed  by  the  French.  A  few  rooms  have  been  restored.  (Guide 
with  keys  from  the  Rheinischer  Hof  at  St.  Goarshausen,  50-75  pf.) 

The  ^Bchweizerthal ,  or  *Swis8  Valley',  extending  about  2  M.  inland 
from  the  foot  of  the  Eatz  at  the  back  of  St.  Goarshausen  (reached  by 
proceeding  to  the  left  at  the  upper  end  of  the  village,  and  passing  below 
the  railway),  contains  picturesque  rocks,  miniature  waterfaUs,  and  pleas- 
ant shady  walks.  To  the  left  in  the  background,  on  the  brink  of  the  vine- 
clad  slope,  stands  the  village  of  Patersberg  (800  ft.) ,  to  which  a  steep 
path  ascends  in  Vs  hr.  from  St.  Goarshausen ;  thence  to  Beiehenberg  (see 
below)  about  27*  M.  more.  —  Those  who  wish  to  visit  the  Lurlei  from  the 
Schweizerthal  follow  the  cart-road  in  the  valley  for  about  Va  M.  (the  'Pro- 
menadenweg''  not  recommended),  and  at  a  projecting  rock  surmounted  by 
a  pavilion  ascend  the  HUhnerberg  by  a  steep  footpath  and  part  of  the  way 
by  steps ,  to  the  ^Mdnnchen'  (view  of  the  Schweizerthal).  Then  cross  the 
hill  to  (25  min.)  a  point  commanding  a  *View  of  the  basin  of  St.  Goar. 
From  this  point  follow  the  cart-road  on  the  height  in  a  straight  direction, 
soon  entering  low  wood;  after  V«  hr.  the  footpath  to  the  Lurlei  (not 
easily  recognised  from  this  side)  descends  to  the  right,  and  the  rock  itself 
is  reached  in  V^  hr.  more.  A  steep  path  (see  p.  ill)  descends  from  the 
Lurlei  to  the  Bhine  in  7  min. ;  thence  by  the  road  to  St.  Goarshausen 
1  H.  (the  whole  excursion  from  St.  Goarshausen  to  the  Huhnerberg, 
Lurlei,  and  back  occupying  about  2-2V2  hrs.). 

^ExcuBSioN  TO  Beiohenbebq  ,  3V2  M.  inland  from  St.  Goarshausen. 
The  road  (diligence-route  to  Nastatten)  leads  through  the  Haselbachthaly 
a  valley  which  opens  a  little  below  St.  Gk)ar8hausen  (where  a  carriage 
may  be  hired  for  the  excursion).  Walkers  ascend  through  the  Swiss 
Valley  to  Patersberg  (see  above),  from  which  Beichenbez^  is  2  M.  distant. 
A  shady  footpath,  provided  with  numerous  benches,  diverges  to  the  right 
from  the  road  through  the  Haselbachthal  just  at  the  entrance  to  the 
valley,  follows  the  windings  of  the  road,  and  rejoins  it  near  the  Beiehenberg. 
A  pleasant  way  back  is  by  the  road  through  the  Haselbachthal,  and  past 
the  Offenihaler  Hof  on  the  hill  about  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Beiehenberg; 
then  through  the  upper  part  of  the  Swiss  Valley  to  the  Lurlei.  (Through 
this  part  of  the  valley  there  is  no  direct  path  to  St.  Goarshausen,  but  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  a  narrow  path  descends  thither  from  the 
point  where  the  Lurlei  path  begins.) 

The  casae  of  ^Beioheaberg ,  erected  in  1284  by  Count  Wilhelm  I.  of 
Katzenellenbogen,  and  during  the  Hessian  supremacy  the  residence  of  the 
governor  of  the  lower  county,  was  at  length  sold  in  1818  for  the  sake  of 
the  building  materials.  Fortunately,  however,  it  escaped  demolition,  and 


ioMaymee,  LtJRLEI.  17,  BouU,     111 

is  still  a  grand  and  picturesque  edifice  with  a  lofty  tower,  and  in  better 
preservation  than  most  of  the  other  Khenish  castles.  The  approach  to 
the  CouKT  (see  also  p.  xzxi)  is  striking.  Here  on  the  left  we  observe  the 
chief  entrance  to  the  castle  flanked  with  two  columns  of  granite.  The 
vaulted  chambers  of  the  ground-floor  in  the  Intksiob  are  well-preserved. 
A  memorial  tablet  has  been  placed  here  in  honour  of  the  archivist  Habel, 
who  devoted  himself  with  most  praiseworthy  industry  to  the  preservation 
of  this  and  several  other  Nassovian  castles.  The  castle  has  been  restored, 
and  is  now  the  property  of  Baron  Oettingen  (guide,  50-75  pf.).  A  number 
of  the  rooms  are  decorated  with  old  weapons,  armour,  domestic  uten- 
sils, etc.  The  old  Chapel  consisted  of  three  stories,  but  the  dividing 
beams  have  been  broken  away ;  the  Romanesque  columns,  however,  placed 
one  above  the  other,  which  bear  the  lofty  pointed  vaulting,  are  still  pre- 
served. The  TowEB,  which  is  ascended  by  wooden  steps,  commands  a 
view  of  the  neighbourhood.  A  second  tower  to  the  £.,  connected  with 
be  other  by  a  lofty  retaining  wall,  is  half  destroyed.  The  village  of  Rei- 
chenberg  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  is  a  very  poor  place.  —  Comp.  the  Map. 
p.  107. 

Immediately  above  St.  Gear ,  and  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream,  lies  the  ^Bank\  &  sunken  ledge  of  rock  running  out  from 
the  W.  bank,  over  which  the  water  rushes  and  seethes  in  rapids 
and  miniature  whirlpools  (OewirreJ,   The  E.  channel  is  the  safest. 

On  the  left  rise  the  imposing  rocks  of  the  *Lnrlei,  433  ft.  above 
the  Rhine.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  precipice  a  steep  path  leads  to 
the  summit.  Ascent  20  mln . ;  view  limited.  The  well-known  legend 
of  the  nymph  who  had  her  dwelling  on  the  rock,  and,  like  the  sirens 
of  old,  enticed  sailors  and  fishermen  to  their  destruction  in  the  rapids 
at  the  foot  of  the  precipice ,  has  long  been  a  favourite  theme  with 
the  poet  and  the  painter.  Heine's  beautiful  ballad  (1823)  is  still 
deservedly  popular.  According  to  Mamer,  a  poet  of  the  13th  cent., 
the  Nlbelnngen  treasure  lies  hidden  beneath  the  ^Lurlenberg'. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel  through  the  Lurlei  (p.  132),  a  steep 
path  ascends  (sometimes  by  stone  steps)  to  (26  min.)  the  top  of  the  rock, 
which  commands,  however,  only  a  limited  view.  To  the  traveller  des- 
cending the  river  the  edge  of  the  Lurlei  rocks  presents  the  appearance  uf 
a  human  profile,  supposed  to  resemble  that  of  Kapoleon  I.  Three  tunnels 
cut  off  the  rocky  angles  on  the  opposite  bank  (p.  130). 

In  this  rocky  basin  is  carried  on  the  once  very  lucrative  salmon - 
fishery  of  St.  Goar.  The  cool,  shady  depths  and  sandy  bottom  of  the 
river  at  this  point  appear  peculiarly  suited  to  the  habits  of  ihe  fish.  They 
are  captured  in  nets  only.  The  yield,  formerly  8(X)0lbs.  per  annum,  has 
dwindled  to  barely  1000 lbs.,  most  of  the  fish  having  been  frightened  away 
by  the  noisy  steamboat  and  railway  traffic.  The  Rhine  salmon  are  highly 
esteemed,  and  realise  2-3s.  per  pound  and  upwards. 

This  is  the  narrowest  and  deepest  (76  ft.)  part  of  the  river. 
The  famous  echo  returned  by  the  lofty  cliffs  on  both  sides  is  not 
audible  from  the  steamer,  but  may  be  successfully  wakened  from 
a  small  boat  in  the  quiet  of  early  morning  or  late  evening. 

Opposite  the  Boasstein,  a  rocky  point  to  the  left,  which  the 
railway  penetrates  by  a  tunnel ,  a  ridge  of  rocks ,  known  as  the 
^Seven  Virgins*,  is  visible  when  the  river  is  low.  It  is  said  that  these 
rugged  masses  were  once  seven  fair  maidens  of  the  Schonburg,  who 
were  condemned  by  the  river-god  for  their  prudery  to  this  meta* 
morphosis. 


112    RouUl?.  OBEBWESEL.  From  CohUnz 

r.  Oberwesel.  —  Hotels.  Rheinischer  Hof,  opposite  the  pier  and 
not  far  from  the  station;  Goldsnkr  Pfropfsnzibher,  at  the  lower  end  of  the 
village,  in  a  retired  situation,  B.  U/t  m.,  B.  60  pf.,  D.  2,  ^pens*.  3^2-4  m., 
good;  Oeutsches  Haus,  on  the  high  road. 

Oherwesel,  an  ancient  town  with  2545  inhab. ,  named  Vosavia 
in  Peutinger's  map  of  Roman  roads  (p.  xxiv),  and  once  a  town  of 
the  empire,  was  afterwards  ceded  by  Henry  VII.  (1308-14)  to  his 
brother  Archbishop  Baldwin  of  Treves,  whereupon  it  degenerated 
into  a  mere  country  -  town  of  the  electorate  of  that  name.  Its 
churches ,  walls ,  and  pinnacled  towers  (like  those  at  Bacharach, 
p.  114),  over  which  frown  the  ruins  of  the  Schonburg,  render  Ober- 
wesel one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  on  the  Rhine. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  town  rises  the  conspicuous  *Frattenkirehe^ 
or  Church  of  Our  Lady,  a  fine  Gothic  edifice,  erected  in  1307-31. 
The  narrow  and  lofty  choir  and  nave  rise  high  above  the  aisles. 

Intebior.  The  Rood-loft,  of  the  14th  cent.,  which  separates  the  choir 
from  the  nave,  deserves  particular  inspection.  The  ancient  wood-carvings 
of  the  high-altar ,  coeval  with  the  foundation ,  and  two  pictures  said  to 
have  been  painted  by  Canon  Lutern  in  1504,  are  also  interesting.  The 
lower  part  of  an  altar-piece  in  the  N.  chapel  represents  the  landing  of 
the  11,000  virgins  (p.  45);  on  the  N.  wall  is  a  series  of  small  pictures 
representing  the  End  of  the  World  and  the  Last  Judgment.  The  N. 
chapel  contains  monuments  of  knights  and  counts  of  Schonburg,  in  the 
Renaissance  style.  By  the  W.  wall  is  the  late -Gothic  monument  of 
Canon  Lutern  (d.  1505).  On  the  pillars  are  Mural  Paintings  of  the  Gothic 
period,  which  have  recently  been  discovered  under  the  whitewash. 

The  Gothic  Chapel  on  the  town-wall,  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine, 
is  dedicated  to  8t.  Werrier  (p.  115).  The  TovmHally  in  the  medias- 
val  style,  with  red  sandstone  pinnacles,  was  erected  in  1849.  The 
handsome  round  Oehaenthurm,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  with  its 
lofty  pinnacles,  formerly  belonged  to  the  fortifications  of  the  town. 

Upon  the  hill  lies  the  late-Gothic  St.  Martinakirche ,  with  its 
castle-like  tower  with  turrets  at  the  comers.  The  S.  aisle  con- 
tains ,  under  a  modern  canopy ,  a  coloured  and  gilt  figure  of  the 
Virgin,  of  Gothic  workmanship. 

The  road  from  Oberwesel  to  (3  M.)  Ni$derhurg  and  the  (4V«  M.)  Spiieen- 
stein  (p.  109)  ascends  to  the  left,  near  the  Ochsenthurm,  immediately 
outside  the  town-walls. 

Above  Oberwesel  rise  the  extensive  and  picturesque  ruins  of 
(r.)  ^Schonburg,  with  its  four  huge  towers,  erected  about  the  12th 
cent.,  the  cradle  of  a  once  mighty  race  which  became  extinct  in 
1713.  In  1615  it  was  the  birthplace  of  Count  Frederick  Hermann 
of  Schonburg,  better  known  as  Marshal  Schomberg,  who  fought 
under  the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  in  1668,  when  in  the  French 
service ,  compelled  the  Spaniards  to  acknowledge  the  House  of 
Braganza.  On  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  he  was  obliged 
to  quit  the  French  service,  and  under  the  Elector  of  Brandenburg 
became  minister  of  state,  and  governor  of  Prussia ;  he  finally  passed 
over  to  England  with  the  Prince  of  Orange ,  and  fell  at  the  memor- 
able battle  of  the  Boyne  in  1690.  In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  the 
castle  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Swedes ,  and  in  1689  was  sacked 


toMayence.  CAUB.  17.  RouU»     113 

by  the  French.  The  rains,  now  belonging  to  Baron  Laffert,  deserve 
a  yisit  for  their  own  sake  as  well  as  for  the  view.  —  The  EngehoU 
valley,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Schdnburg,  yields  an  excellent  wine. 

1.  Caub  (705  ft. ;  Zum  Orunen  Wald,  well  spoken  of;  AdUr; 
Thurm^  good  wine),  an  ancient  town  with  2180  iuhab.,  still 
surrounded  with  medisval  fortiflcations ,  and  a  wine-growing 
place  of  some  note,  is  chiefly  important  on  account  of  its  pro- 
ductive subterranean  slate- quarries.  A  visit  may  be  paid  to  the 
WUhelm  Erbstollerij  with  the  permission  of  Herr  Obersteiger  Kern 
in  Caub  (small  fee).  The  slates  ('leyen')  are  split  in  a  large  build- 
ing on  the  spot.  A  landslip,  which  had  been  long  feared,  took 
place  on  the  night  of  10th  March ,  1876 ,  and  destroyed  several 
houses,  burying  25  persons  in  the  ruins.  In  1878  another  landslip 
occurred,  on  a  smaller  scale  and  fortunately  doing  no  injury;  but 
all  danger  of  a  recurrence  of  similar  disasters  has  now  been  ob- 
viated by  the  withdrawal  of  the  water  collected  in  the  interior  of 
the  hill. 

At  the  back  of  the  town  rises  the  picturesque  castle  of  Outonfels 
(key  at  one  of  the  hotels),  with  its  lofty  square  pinnacled  tower, 
named  Cktbe  in  the  middle  ages,  which  was  sold  together  with  the 
little  town  of  Caub  by  the  barons  of  Falkenstein  to  the  Palatinate 
In  1277.  The  building  was  not  destroyed  until  1807.  JThe  Earl  of 
Cornwall,  who  was  elected  King  of  Germany  in  1257,  is  said  to 
have  become  enamoured  here^  of  the  beautiful  Countess  Beatrix  of 
Falkenstein,  whom  he  married  on  the  death  of  his  first  wife  in  1269. 
In  1504  the  castle  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  for  six  weeks  by  the 
Landgrave  of  Hessen,  an  event  recorded  In  a  metrical  inscription  on 
a  slab  of  stone  built  into  a  wall  at  Caub.  In  1508  it  was  strengthen- 
ed and  received  its  present  name ;  and  in  1647  it  was  taken  by  the 
Hessians  under  General  Mortaigne. 

The  ascent  of  the  valley  which  begins  at  the  Adol/tMhey  a  hill  to  the 
8.  of  Caub,  as  far  as  the  Sauerhurg  (p.  116)  is  recommended. 

Above  Caub  on  a  ledge  of  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  Rhine  rises 
the  *PfalZ)  or  Pfalzgrafenstein ,  a  small  hexagonal  building,  well 
preserved  externally  and  internally.  It  has  a  pentagonal  tower  covered 
with  an  unsightly  roof,  numerous  turrets  and  jutting  corners,  loop- 
holes in  every  direction,  and  one  entrance  only,  situated  about  6  ft. 
above  the  rock ,  and  reached  by  means  of  a  ladder.  The  sharp  S. 
(upper)  angle  of  the  building  with  its  stanchions  and  grappling-irons 
serves  to  break  the  force  of  the  floating  ice  in  winter.  On  this  side  is 
seen  the  lion  of  the  Palatinate  as  bearer  of  the  escutcheon  of  the 
ancient  lords  of  the  castle.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  tablet 
commemorating  the  passage  of  the  Rhine  on  Ist  Jan.  1814. 

The  Interior  (keys  kept  by  a  boatman  at  Caub,  who  ferries  visitors 
to  the  bnilding^  fee  75  pf.)  is  unattractive.  The  small  (hurt  is  sur- 
rounded with  vaults.  The  Tower  commands  a  good  view  of  the  river  in 
every  direction.  The  Well  is  said  to  be  quite  independent  of  the  river 
for  its  supply  of  water.  The  diflferent  chambers  in  the  interior  were 
last  inhabited  by  invalid  soldiers  of  the  Elector  Palatine,  whose  duty 

Baedekeb's  Rhine.    iOth  Edit.  8 


114     BouU  1 7.  BACHARACH.  From  Cobl€n% 

WM  to  sigaal  to  the  custom-house  at  Caub  tlie  approach  of  laden  vessels. 
As  early  as  the  13th  cent,  a  watch-tower  was  erected  here  for  the  pur- 
pose of  levying  toll  on  passing  boats.  For  the  same  purpose  King 
Lewis  the  Bavarian  (1314-47)  erected  the  present  stronghold,  which  has 
since  been  restored,  but  his  exactions  were  so  heavy  that  Pope  John  XXII. 
in  a  bull  of  1326  commanded  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  to  destroy  the 
castle.  According  to  an  early  tradition,  the  origin  of  which  is  involved 
in  obscurity,  the  Countesses  Palatine  were  in  the  habit  of  repairing  to 
the  castle  to  await  their  accouchement  in  a  small  chamber  which  is 
still  pointed  out  to  the  curious. 

At  this  point,  early  on  New  Year's  Day,  1814,  a  Prussian  corps 
under  York,  and  a  division  of  Russian  troops  under  Langeron, 
effected  the  passage  of  the  Rhine  nnder  the  direction  of  Blucher. 
A  small  monument  in  sandstone  on  the  road  on  the  W.  bank,  a 
little  above  the  Pfalz,  commemorates  this  event,  Informing  us 
that  the  marshal  was  on  his  way  to  effect  the  'regeneration  of 
Prussia  and  the  German  Fatherland'. 

r.  Bacharach.  —  Hotels.  *H6t£l  Wasum,  at  the  station,  with  a 
garden,  R.  and  B.  3  m.,  also  a  ^pension'j  Bastian,  R.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D.  l'/^- 
IVzm.  5  LiPPERT,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  1  m.  30  pf.,  B.  Vs  m.,  *pens.'  3V2m.,  well 
spoken  of;  Zuh  Blughbbthal,  in  the  town. 

Bacharach,  a  town  with  1840  inhab. ,  lies  plctoresquely  at  the 
entrance  to  the  narrow  Steeger  Thai,  and  is  commanded  by  the  castle 
of  Stahleck,  at  the  foot  of  which  stands  the  beautiful  ruin  of  St. 
Werner's  church.  The  old  town- walls,  a  great  part  of  which  Is 
still  well-preserved,  descending  from  the  castle  and  enclosing  the 
town ,  with  towers  at  Intervals  of  100-150  paces ,  afford  a  good 
example  of  mediaeval  fortifications. 

Bacharach,  mentioned  as  Baehereho  in  1019  and  as  Bagaracha 
in  1140,  was  noted  for  its  wine  at  an  early  period,  and  down  to 
the  16th  cent,  was  one  of  the  greatest  wine-marts  on  the  river.  Pope 
Pius  II.  (iEneas  Sylvius)  caused  a  cask  of  'Bacharach  wine'  to  be 
brought  to  Rome  annually,  and  the  town  of  Nuremberg  obtained  its 
freedom  in  return  for  a  yearly  tribute  to  the  £mperor  Wenzel  of  four 
tuns  of  the  same  wine. 

At  the  point  where  the  road  through  the  Steeger  Thai  diverges 
from  the  main  street  of  the  town  rises  the  Church  of  St.  Peter ,  or 
Templars'  Church,  a  late-Romanesque  edifice  of  elegant  proportions, 
with  a  round  choir  towards  the  main  street,  two  round  E.  towers, 
and  a  square  W.  tower.  Under  this  last  is  a  fine  early-Gothic  porch, 
and  on  the  N.  side  there  is  a  rich  portal.  The  church  has  been 
restored  since  the  damage  done  by  the  fire  of  1872.  The  large  an- 
cient building  with  a  tower,  now  the  Parsonage,  was  formerly  a 
Capuchin  convent.  The  Kellerei  was  the  old  seat  of  the  Electoral 
government. 

On  a  slight  eminence  (path  on  the  S.  side  of  the  church  of  St. 
Peter)  stands  the  *Church  of  St,  Werr^er,  erected  in  1293  in  the 
finest  Gothic  style  in  the  form  of  a  trefoil ,  partly  restored  in  the 
15th  cent.,  but  now  a  ruin,  one-third  of  the  original  building 
having  been  destroyed.  It  was  erected  to  commemorate  the  canoni- 


U)Maytnce»  STAHLECK.  17,  Uoute.     115 

satioa  of  St.  Werner,  a  boy  who,  according  to  tradition,  was  murdered 
by  JewB  in  1286,  and  whose  body  was  landed  here  after  having 
miraculously  floated  up  the  stream  from  Oberwesel.  Within  the 
precincts  of  the  church  is  a  burial-ground.  Above  the  chapel 
(10  mln.  walk)  rises  the  castle  of  Stahleck  (see  below). 

The  Bteeger-Thal  at  the  back  of  the  town,  sometimes  called  the 
Bliieher-Thal  from  the  fact  that  Blucher  after  his  passage  of  the  Rhine 
on  1st  Jan.  1814  pursued  a  body  of  French  troops  through  this  valley 
towards  the  Hunsriick,  affords  a  pleasant  walk.  After  Vs  H.  we  take  the 
road  diverging  to  the  right,  and  IV2  M.  farther  reach  Steeg^  which  yields 
an  excellent  red  wine.  Above  the  village  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
Btahlberg,  which  like  those  of  Btahleck  and  Fiirstenberg  (see  below)  once 
belonged  to  the  Counts  Palatine. 

Fbom  Bachabach  bt  Stbombebg  to  Kbbuzkach  (I2OV3  M. :  Bacharach  to 
the  Bhelnbdller  Foundry  8,  Stromberg  5,  Kreuznacta  TVs  H.).  From  Bacha- 
rach through  the  valley  of  Steeg  to  8te€g  (1  M.),  see  above.  At  the 
tower  (V2  U.)  with  the  small  pond,  we  select  the  middle  of  the  three 
paths,  which  cuts  off  the  long  windings  of  the  high-road.  At  the  last 
sharp  bend  of  the  road  in  the  Steeger  Thai  (iVs  H.  from  the  tower)  the 
footpath  ascends  to  the  right  and  enters  the  wood^  the  road  is  after- 
wards regained,  and  followed  for  a  short  way ;  the  footpath  then  re-enters 
the  wood,  and  finally  crosses  the  meadows  to  (3V«  H.)  Distelbaeh  (thus  far 
a  guide  is  desirable,  although  not  indispensable).  Beyond  the  village  we 
follow  the  same  direction  (S.W.),  and  cross  the  meadows  to  the  (IV2  H.) 
Jtheinboller  Foundry  C^Inn) ,  an  extensive  establishment  picturesquely  sit- 
uated 1116  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  road  leads  hence  through  the 
beautiful  wooded  ravine  of  the  OUldenbaeh.  On  the  slope  to  the  right  riaea 
the  modem  chateau  of  CarUhurg.  Farther  on  is  the  Sahler  HUtte^  another 
extensive  foundry.  Immediately  before  (5  M.)  Stromberg  (*Fvstenburg ; 
*Post;  Hirseh)  is  reached,  the  ruined  castle  of  Oolden/els  rises  on  the  height 
to  the  right ;  and  beyond  the  village,  almost  contiguous  to  it,  are  the  exten- 
sive ruins  of  the  Fustenburg.  Beyond  Stromberg  the  scenery  soon  becomes 
uninteresting;  (2V4  M.)  8chweppenhausen \  (2V4  M.)  Windesheim.  At  the 
point  (3  M.)  where  the  road  begins  to  descend  into  the  Nahethal ,  called 
the  ^Hungrige  Wolf  (714  ft.),  iVa  M.  from  Kreuznach,  a  magnificent  and 
extensive  prospect  is  enjoyed.  —  If  we  follow  the  high-road  through  the 
Steeger  Thai  instead  of  the  above-mentioned  footpath,  we  first  reach  the 
village  of  RheinboUen,  and  then  the  Foundry,  iVsM.  farther  (a  route  longer 
by  2V2  H.) ;  diligence  from  Bacharach  to  Rheinbdllen  (9  M.)  twice  daily, 
in  2  hrs. 

Above  Bacharach  rises  the  once  strongly  -  fortified  castle  of 
Stahleck  y  the  extensive  ruins  of  which  extend  down  to  the  valley, 
erected  about  the  year  1156,  and  the  principal  residence  of  the 
Counts  Palatine  down  to  1253.  The  French  besieged  and  took 
the  castle  and  town  eight  times  in  1620-40,  and  finally  destroyed 
the  former  in  1689.  The  ruins  are  surrounded  with  pleasure- 
grounds,  commanding  a  picturesque  but  limited  view.  Nearly  op- 
posite the  castle  lies  the  village  of  Lorchhausen ,  with  a  modern 
Gothic  church. 

On  a  rocky  eminence  on  the  right,  near  the  village  of  Rhein- 
diebachj  rise  the  handsome  ruins  of  F&rstenberg,  made  over  to  the 
Palatinate  in  1243  as  a  fief  of  Cologne.  In  1292 ,  when  Adolph  of 
Nassau  was  on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Aix-la-Chapelle ,  the 
vassals  of  the  robber-knight  of  the  castle  had  the  audacity  forcibly  to 
detain  the  vessel  of  the  king  for  the  purpose  of  levying  toll.  In 
1321  the  castle  was  taken  by  the  Emperor  Lewis  the  Bavarian 

8* 


116    Route  17,  LORCH.  From  Cohlens 

from  his  opponent  Frederick  the  Fair,  and  presented  to  his  consort 
Margaret  of  Holland.  In  1632  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Swedes, 
and  in  1689  was  destroyed  by  the  French. 

The  brook  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  here  was  anciently  the  botindary 
between  the  dominiona  of  the  archbishops  of  Hayence  and  Treves. 
Farther  up  the  valley  are  the  villages  of  Oberdiebach  and  Manubach^ 
famous  for  their  wine. 

Opposite  the  Fiirstenbnrg ,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Wwper, 
which  falls  Into  the  Rhine  here,  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  Kol- 
lingen,  or  Nollich,  mentioned  in  1110,  581  ft.  above  the  Rhine. 
The  rugged  cliff  on  its  W.  slope  is  called  the  *Z)cviT«  Ladder\  of 
which  a  legend  records  that  a  knight  of  Lorch  with  the  assistance 
of  mountain  sprites  once  scaled  it  on  horseback,  and  thus  gained  the 
hand  of  his  lady-love.  The  Wisperthal  is  unenriably  known  for  the 
keen  'Wisperwind',  which  blows  through  it  towards  the  Rhine. 

1.  Lorch  (*8chwan,  with  a  garden  on  the  Rhine,  good  wine  and 
cuisine,  R.  and  B.  2  m.,  D.  272  ™m  ^pension'  from  5m.,  generally 
full  in  summer ;  *Krone),  a  small  town  with  2152  inhab.,  forming  a 
long  street  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  the  Roman  Laureaeum  (?), 
mentioned  in  a  charter  as  early  as  832,  was  in  the  middle  ages  a 
favourite  residence  of  noble  families,  who  founded  a  school  here 
for  the  exclusive  education  of  their  sons.  The  lofty  Gothic  Church 
of  St.  Martin,  of  the  13-15th  cent.,  which  possesses  the  finest  bells 
in  this  district,  was  entirely  restored  in  1876-80.  The  high-altar 
with  rich  late-Gothic  carving  of  1483,  a  fine  late-Gothic  font  of  1464, 
and  several  monuments  of  knightly  families  of  the  Rheingau,  espe- 
cially that  of  Joh,  Hilchen,  companion  in  arms  of  Sickingen,  merit 
inspection.  The  inscription  on  the  latter  records  that  Hilchen  distin- 
guished himself  against  the  Turks,  and  as  field-marshal  in  1542-44 
against  the  French.  His  house,  a  handsome  Renaissance  building 
of  1546,  adorned  with  sculpturing,  ig  situated  on  the  Rhine  about 
the  middle  of  the  village. 

The  road  through  the  "^Wisperthal  to  Schwalbach  (20i(2M. ;  carriage  with 
one  horse  20,  with  two  horses  30  m. ;  there  and  back  25  or  36  m.)  leads 
by  (6  M.)  the  Kcmmerberger  MUhle  and  the  (2V4  H.)  LaukenmUhle  ann)  to 
(2V4  M.)  Oerolstein.  About  ii/z  H.  farther  on,  beyond  the  OretilingsmUhley 
the  road  quits  the  Wisperthal  and  enters  the  Fischbach-Thal.  After  passing 
the  0/2  M.)  Riesenmilhle  it  reaches  the  long  valley  of  the  Dombach^  which 
it  follows  to  a  point  beyond  (3  M.)  Ratnsehied.  Ifear  Bamschied  a  saline 
spring  is  passed  on  the  left.  We  now  ascend  in  windings,  cross  the  old 
Rheingau  road  ('Hohe  Strasse'),  and  descend  to  (41/2  H.)  Schtcalbach  (p.  134). 

In  the  valley  of  the  Sauer^  which  unites  with  the  Wisper  Vi  ^'  above 
Lorch,  is  the  Sauerburg,  4V4  M.  from  Lorch  or  Caub,  once  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Sickingen  family,  and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  The 
last  direct  descendant  of  Franz  von  Sickingen  died  in  great  poverty  in  the 
neighbouring  farmhouse  in  1836.  In  the  churchyard  at  Samrthal  is  a 
cross  with  the  Sickingen  arms  and  an  inscription,  erected  'by  a  friend  of 
German  history\ 

The  £.  bank  of  the  river  from  Lorch  to  Assmannshausen  is  un- 
interesting. The  hills  rise  abruptly  from  the  water,  their  lower 
l.opes  being  covered  with  vineyards  and  their  summits  with  wood. 


toMayence,  RHEINSTEIN.  17.  Route,     117 

At  the  mouth  of  a  rapine  on  this  bank  are  the  vineyards  which 
yield  the  Bodenthaler  wine. 

r.  NUderkeimbaeh  (rail.  sUt.  ;  Schiffchen ;  Pfalzer  Hof),  a  long 
village,  eommanded  by  the  massive  tower  of  Hoheneek,  or  Heimburg, 
a  castle  of  the  ISth  and  i4th  cent.,  recently  restored,  next  comes  in 
view.   Extensive  retrospect  as  far  as  Bacharach. 

AscxKT  OF  Tus  Salzkopf,  2  hrs.  From  Niederheimbach  the  route 
leads  by  Oberheimbaeh  (Lsmberger  Hof^  Zebnhof)  and  ascends  tbence  to 
(Vs  br.)  a  clearing  among  tbe  pines,  where  the  path  to  Stromberg  (p.  115) 
diverges  to  tbe  right.  Our  path  leads  through  wood  to  Oh  bi"*)  the 
forester^s  house  of  LautehhMte  and  (10  min.)  the  tower  at  the  top  of  the 
hill  (p.  121). 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now  slightly  contracts.  On  the  right 
rises  the  slender  tower  of  *8ooneok,  commanding  the  entrance  to  a 
ravine.  The  castle ,  which  was  erected  by  Archbishop  Willigis  of 
Mayence  about  1015,  was  destroyed  by  King  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg 
as  a  robbers'  stronghold,  but  rebuilt  in  the  14th  century.  The  ruin, 
which  has  been  restored  since  1834 ,  now  belongs  to  the  German 
emperor. 

r.  Trechtlingahausen  (rail.  stat. ;  Stern).  On  an  eminence  beyond 
the  village  rises  the  Reichensteirij  or  Falkenburg,  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1689.  In  1252  this  marauders'  castle  was  destroyed  by  the 
confederation  of  Rhenish  towns,  but  restored  in  1261  by  its  owner, 
Philip  von  Hohenfels,  who  resumed  his  lawless  calling.  Rudolph  of 
Hapsburg  afterwards  besieged  and  dismantled  it,  and  relentlessly 
consigned  to  the  gallows  the  robbers  whom  he  found  in  possession. 
Its  present  owner,  General  von  Rehfuss,  has  caused  the  ruin  to  be 
again  restored. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  entrance  to  the  "^Morgenbachthal,  which 
to  a  distance  of  about  1  M.  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  lateral  valleys  of 
the  Rhine.  Just  above  the  mill  a  path  to  the  left  ascends  in  >/«  ^r.  to  the 
Swiss  House  mentioned  below.  —  From  Trecbtlingsbansen  to  the  SaU- 
kopf  by  the  lagerhaus  (3  hrs.),  see  p.  121. 

On  the  right  we  next  observe  the  venerable  Clemenskapelle, 
a  small  late-Romanesque  edifice,  lately  restored  by  the  Prin- 
cess Frederick  of  Prussia.  The  history  of  the  church  is  unknown, 
but  it  is  on  record  that  it  was  once  visited  by  Emp.  Maximilian  1. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  knights  of  Waldeck  to  en- 
sure the  souls'  peace  of  the  robber-knights  slain  or  hanged  by  Ru- 
dolph of  Hapsburg.  The  choir-stalls  in  the  interior  are  in  the  late- 
Gothic  style. 

A  little  above  the  church ,  on  the  same  bank ,  rises  the  pictur- 
esque castle  of  *Bhein8tein,  262  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  It  was 
formerly  called  the  Faitzberg,  Vautsherg,  or  Voigtaberg.  Its  origin  is 
unknown,  but  it  is  mentioned  as  early  as  1279,  and  after  1348  was 
frequently  a  residence  of  Kuno  von  Falkenstein ,  Archbishop  of 
Treves,  since  whose  time  it  has  disappeared  from  the  pages  of 
history.  In  1825-29  Prince  Frederick  of  Prussia  caused  the  castle 
to  be  restored  in  the  mediaeval  style,  and  he  was  afterwards  (d.  1863) 


118     Route  17.         ASSMANNSHAUSEN.  From  Cohlens 

interred  in  the  chapel  on  the  S.  side.  Rheinstein  is  a  very  inter- 
esting example  of  a  mediaeval  castle,  of  whioh  the  massive  pinnacled 
towers  called  the  *Bergfriede',  the  'Herrenhaus',  or  Talas',  and  the 
substantial  'Schildmauer'  on  the  side  exposed  to  attack  are  well 
represented.  A  •Collection  of  armour  and  antiquities  is  shown  in 
the  interior  (adm.  1  m.,  a  party  50  pf.  each,  for  20  or  more  visitors 
30  pf.  each).  The  view  from  the  castle  as  well  as  from  the  Swiss 
House  (good  inn)  on  the  height  towards  the  S.  is  limited. 

1.  Assmannshaiisen.  —  Hoteli.  *Kbons,  opens'.  6m.,  good  wine; 
'* Anker,  'pens'.  6V2  m.,  Bbutebshabt,  Ossmania,  Lamm,  the  last  plain ;  all 
on  the  Rhine;  Bvrq  Rheinstein,  near  the  rail,  station,  not  expensive; 
NiBDEEWALD,  in  the  village,  second-class.  —  *Cubhau8,  on  the  Rhine,  R. 
from  21/2  m.,  board  5  m.,  baths  2-3  m.    Bath  physician,  Dr.  Mahr. 

Zahnradbahn,  or  Goff- Wheel  RaUteay,  to  the  top  of  the  l^iederwald; 
the  station  is  at  the  E.  end  of  the  village,  near  the  church. 

Small  Boats.  To  Rheinstein,  1-5  pers.  1  m.,  each  additional  pers, 
20  pf. ;  there  and  back  with  stay  of  one  hour,  twice  as  much ;  to  Riides- 
heim  or  Bingen  (BingerbrtLck),  l-o  pers.  31/2  m..  each  additional  pers.  50  pf., 
there  and  back,  Vsiuore;  to  Lorch  1-6  pers.  4V2  m.,  each  additional  pers. 
60  pf.,  there  and  back  V2  more. 

Asamannshausen  (262  ft.),  a  village  with  960  inhah.,  is  cele- 
brated for  its  full-bodied  and  high-flavoured  red  wine,  the  better 
vintages  of  which  are  preferred  by  some  connoisseurs  to  Bnrgundy, 
and  realise  high  prices.  A  warm  alkaline  spring  (90®)  here,  con- 
taining lithia,  which  was  known  as  far  back  as  the  Roman  period, 
has  recently  again  come  into  vogue  for  baths.  Assmannshausen  is 
the  best  starting-point  for  an  excursion  to  the  Niederwald  (p.  127), 
and  affords  opportunity  for  many  other  pleasant  walks  and  drives. 

Beyond  Assmannshausen  the  steamboat  reaches  the  Binger  Locb, 
a  rapid  caused  by  the  narrowness  of  the  rocky  channel ,  the  widen- 
ing of  which  has  been  the  work  of  ages ,  from  the  Roman  period 
down  to  1830-32,  when  the  last  blasting  operations  took  place. 
The  completion  of  the  work  is  commemorated  by  a  monument  on 
the  W.  bank.  The  passage  is  now  free  from  danger,  but  in  descend- 
ing the  larger  rafts  require  to  be  piloted  with  extreme  cantion. 

Above  the  rapids  rises  the  tower  of  (1.)  Ehrenfels,  erected  about 
1210  by  Philipp  von  Bolanden  ,  governor  of  the  Rheingau,  the  fre- 
quent residence  of  the  archbishops  of  Mayence  in  the  15th  cent., 
much  damaged  by  the  Swedes  in  1635,  and  Anally  destroyed  by 
the  French  in  1689.  The  two  towers  are  connected  by  a  lofty  wall 
on  the  side  exposed  to  attack,  facing  the  hill. 

The  steep  slopes  of  the  Riidesheimer  Berg  yield  the  excellent 
wine  of  that  name ,  and  terrace  rises  above  terrace  to  secure  the 
soil  from  falling.  The  hill  is  completely  covered  with  walls  and 
arches ,  the  careful  preservation  of  which  conveys  an  idea  of  the 
value  of  the  vines.  According  to  tradition ,  Charlemagne  observed 
from  his  palace  at  Ingelheim  that  the  snow  always  melted  first  on 
the  Rudesheimer  Berg ,  and  therefore  caused  vines  to  be  brought 
from  Orleans  and  planted  there. 

Opposite  the  castle,  on  a  quartz-rock  in  the  middle  of  the  Rhine, 


to  Mayenee.  BINGEN.  / 7 .  RouU.     119 

is  gitnated  the  IConi*  T«wer,  whieh  Ib  popularly  said  to  derive  its 
name  from  the  well-known  legend  of  the  cruel  Archbishop  Hatto  of 
Mayenee.  Having  caused  a  number  of  poor  people,  whom  he  com- 
pared to  mice  bent  on  devouring  the  corn,  to  be  burned  in  a  bam 
during  a  famine,  he  was  immediately  attacked  by  mice,  which  tor- 
mented him  day  and  night.  He  then  sought  refuge  on  this  island, 
but  waA  followed  by  his  persecutors,  and  soon  devoured  alive.  The 
tower,  however,  was  in  reality  erected  In  the  middle  ages  as  a 
watch-tower,  and  the  name  is  derived  from  the  old  German  ^muaen\ 
to  spy.  In  1856  the  ruins  were  again  converted  into  a  kind  of  watch* 
tower,  for  making  signals  to  steamers,  which  in  descending  the  river 
are  required  to  slacken  speed  here  when  other  vessels  are  coming 
up  the  stream. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now  suddenly  expands,  and  the  district 
of  the  Rheingau,  which  was  once  in  all  probability  a  lake,  is  enter- 
ed. Below  (r.)  Bingen  the  Nahe  unites  with  the  Rhine.  Bridges 
over  the  Nahe,  and  stations  of  the  Rhenish  and  Rhine  -  Nahe  lines 
at  Biagerbruoky  see  p.  130.  The  steamers  do  not  touch  at  Binger- 
briick.  Nearly  opposite  Bingen,  near  the  £.  bank,  is  the  ^Muhl- 
8tein\  a  quartz-rock  in  the  Rhine  marked  with  a  black  cross ,  in 
which  the  heart  of  the  Rhenish  historian  Yogt  (d.  1836)  was  de- 
posited by  his  own  desire. 

r.  Bingen.  —  Hot«l«.  Wbisses  Ross,  lately  well  spoken  of,  and 
HoTBL  VxoTOBXA,  nearest  the  station,  both  on  the  Rhine  and  both  of  the 
first  class,  with  charges  to  correspond.  Bbllbvue,  also  on  the  Rhine,  B. 
A  B.  3,  D.  2  m.;  Goldner  Pfluo,  near  the  market-place.  —  Enolibcuxr 
HoF,  Mainzer  Strasse ;  Earpfen,  on  the  Rhine ;  Pariser  Hof,  Gau-Strasse, 
near  the  Kahe;  Adlbr,  Distel,  both  well  spoken  of,  and  Dbdtsches 
Hads,  these  three  on  the  Rhine*,  Germania.  —  "^IldTEL  Roohusbero 
(p.  121),  D.  2V2i  'pens.'  6  m.,  omnibus  from  the  station  50  pf.  —  At  Binger- 
hrUck:  Hotel  Mohrmamn,  opposite  the  station.  —  Cafi  Soherr^  with  restau- 
rant, in  the  market-place ;  HeUmann^  confectioner  with  cafe,  on  the  Rhine. 
Beer  at  the  Actienhrauerei^  with  a  garden,  in  the  town. 

Steam  Ferry  Boat  (^Trajecf)  from  Bingen  and  Bingerbrilck  to  Rildesheitn 
Cp.  116),  making  about  16  trips  in  each  direction  daily  (fares  20,  10  pf.); 
on  Sundays  and  holidays  extra  trips  to  Assmannshansen,  Rheinstein,  etc. 

Boats,  r  To  the  Mouse  Tower,  1-2  pers.  iVs  m.,  each  additional  pers. 
25  pf. ;  to  Assmannshausen,  1-6  pers.  3  m.;  to  Rheinstein  and  Assmanns- 
hansen, with  2  hrs.  stay  at  the  former,  6  m. 

Conriagea.  To  the  Rochuscapelle,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  SVs)  8-4  pers. 
4  m. ;  two-horse  4  or  5  m. ;  to  the  Scharlachkopf ,  one-horse  4  or  5  m., 
two-horse  5  or  6  m. ;  to  Rheinstein  and  back,  one-horse  6  or  7  m.,  two- 
horse  7  or  8  m. 

Sailway  to  Mayenee  and  Coblem,  see  R.  19;  to  Kreuxnaeh  and  8aar- 
brUcken^  see  R.  23. 

Bingeny  a  Hessian  district-town  with  7100  inhab.,  situated  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Nahe  and  Rhine,  was  known  to  the  Romans, 
who  erected  a  castle  here,  at  the  point  whence  their  military  roads 
to  Cologne  and  Treves  diverged.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  a 
free  town  of  the  empire  and  one  of  the  earliest  members  of  the 
confederation  of  Rhenish  towns  (p.  143).  During  the  Thirty  Years' 
War  it  was  repeatedly  captured,  and  in  1689  it  was  almost  totally 


120     RouUlT,  ROCHUSBERG.  From  CobUns 

destroyed  by  the  Fjench.  Bingen  carries  on  a  large  trade  in  wine. 
The  late-Gothic  Pfarrkirehe  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  a  Romanesque 
crypt  of  the  Uth,  has  been  modernised.  The  Gothic  font  dates 
from  the  15th  century.  The  Raihhaus  was  restored  in  1863  in  the 
medi»yal  style. 

Above  the  town,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Roman  fortress,  rises 
the  castle  of  *Klopp,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689, 
but  has  been  tastefully  restored  and  extended.  The  towers  afford  a 
beautiful  view.  Bell  at  the  door  (fee).  Roads  and  footpaths  ascend 
to  it  both  from  the  Rhine  (diverging  from  the  Rochus-Strasse  beyond 
the  Englischer  Hof)  and  from  the  Nahe  (diverging  from  the  Schloss- 
Strasse  beyond  the  Pariser  Hof). 

The  finest  points  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bingen  arethel^oeftfM- 
capelU  (£.)  and  the  Scharlachkopf  (S.E.) ,  each  about  ^2  ^^*  ^^^^ 
the  town.  In  order  to  reach  the  Rochuscapelle  we  ascend  the  street 
at  the  back  of  the  Englischer  Hof,  and  pass  the  Cemetery ^  which 
contains  monuments  in  memory  of  Napoleon*s  veterans  and  of  the 
campaign  of  1870-71.  Near  the  lower  entrance  is  a  tombstone 
with  an  epitaph  in  verse,  beginning  ^Wobl  auch  die  stille  Haus- 
lichkeit',  and  containing  an  equivoque  which  will  amuse  the  visitor 
who  understands  German.  The  complimentary  tenor  of  the  in- 
scription as  a  whole  is  contradicted  by  that  of  the  initial  words 
when  read  by  themselves.  From  the  upper  gate  of  the  cemetery 
we  reach  the  *H6tel  Rochutherg  (p.  119),  with  a  terrace,  command- 
ing a  fine  view,  in  1/4  hr. ,  and  thence  follow  the  road  on  the  margin 
of  the  Rochusberg,  which  leads  to  the  chapel  in  5  mln.  more. 

The  *Bochu8cap6lle ,  a  chapel  on  the  E.  brow  of  the  Rochui" 
berg,  which  descends  abruptly  to  the  Rhine ,  stands  341  ft.  above 
the  river,  and  commands  a  noble  prospect.  It  was  founded  in  1666 
at  the  time  of  the  plague,  destroyed  in  1795,  and  restored  in  1814. 
The  interior  contains  a  representation  of  St.  Roch  leaving  his  dis- 
mantled palace ,  painted  in  commemoration  of  the  restoration  of 
the  chapel,  and  presented  by  Goethe  and  others.  At  the  festival  of 
St.  Roch  (first  Sunday  after  16th  Aug.),  charmingly  described  by 
Goethe,  thousands  of  persons  congregate  here  and  celebrate  certain 
solemnities ,  to  which  open-air  dances,  music,  and  the  ringing  of 
glasses  form  a  lively  sequel.  At  the  base  of  the  Rochusberg  is  the 
imposing  country-house  of  Prince  William  of  Hessen-Philippsthal- 
Barchfeld,  with  a  large  veranda. 

From  the  H6tel  Rochusberg  a  good  carriage  -  road  leads  along 
the  N.W.  brow  of  the  hill  to  the  Scharlachkopf,  1  M.  to  the 
S.W.,  the  S.  slopes  of  which,  situated  in  the  district  of  Biides' 
heim,  yield  the  fiery  Scharlachberger,  the  best  of  the  Nahe  wines. 
A  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Nahe  is  obtained  from  a  pavilion 
near  the  summit. 

Near  its  mouth  the  Nahe  is  crossed  by  a  Railway  Bridge,  which 

also  open  to  foot-passengers.    The  old  Bridge ,  with  its  seven 


toMayenee.  RtDESHEIM.  17.  Route,     121 

arehes,  about  Vs^*  f&^ther  up,  was  constructed  by  Archbishop 
Willigis  on  the  foundations  of  the  old  Roman  bridge,  and  was 
afterwards  repeatedly  restored.  Below  the  bridge  Is  a  plain  Roman- 
esque chapel,  with  a  semicircular  apse  at  the  £.  end,  which  may 
be  entered  from  a  house  on  the  right  bank. 

On  the  left  or  Prussian  bank  of  the  Nahe,  which  here  forms  the 
boundary  between  Hessen-Darmstadt  and  Prussia,  lies  Bingerbrnok^ 
a  village  with  900  inhab.,  and  the  station  of  the  Rhine  and  Nahe 
Railway  (p.  153). 

On  the  road  to  the  Hunsriicken,  which  aacends  from  the  left  bank  of 
the  Kahe  to  Weiler,  is  situated  the  Rondel^  IV4  M.  from  the  railway 
station,  a  spot  which  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  Rhine  and  Nahe, 
with  Bingen  and  the  Klopp  forming  a  picturesque  foreground.  Leaving 
the  Bingerbriick  station,  we  cross  the  rails  of  the  Bhein-Nahe-Bahn  (R.  23) 
and  reach  the  high-road  by  a  flight  of  steps.  The  Rondel,  being  a  con- 
spicuous point  planted  with  trees,  is  easily  recognised.  A  little  below  it 
is  a  modern  Gothic  villa. 

The  *Eliienh6he  (575  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  Vs  br.  from  the  Binger- 
briick station,  commands  a  still  finer  view  than  the  Rondel.  A  new  zig- 
zag path  ascends  from  the  road  at  the  edge  of  the  wood.  At  the  top 
is  a  pavilion,  erected  in  1878.  The  view  embraces  the  Rheingau,  the 
Niederwald  with  its  monument  (opposite),  and,  down  the  Rhine,  the 
Falkenburg  (p.  117).  A  finger-post  on  the  way  to  the  Elisenhohe  points 
out  the  path  to  the  Prmzenkopf,  another  fine  point  of  view.  The  Da- 
miatukop/^  also  with  view,  between  Bingerbriick  and  Rhelnstein,  is  most 
conveniently  reached  vi&  the  forester^s  house  of  Heiligkreuz. 

The  Salzkopf  (2004  ft.  \  to  the  W.  of  the  Franzotenkopf,  marked  on 
theXmap  at  p.  122)  commands  an  extensive  view  up  and  down  the  Rhine, 
embracing  the  Pfalz  and  Hunsruck,  the  Odenwald,  the  Siebengebirge,  and 
the  Hohe  Eifel  (tower  at  the  top).  Refreshments  at  the  adjacent  forester's 
house  of  LaittchhUtte.  From  Bingen  the  Salzkopf  may  be  ascended  in 
3  hrs.,  ^n&  Heiligkreuz ;  from  Trechtlingehauten  Cp.  117)  the  ascent,  through 
the  Morgenbachthal  and  past  the  Jagerhaus,  also  takes  3  hrs.  y  from  Nieder- 
heimbachy  see  p.  117. 

On  the  E.  bank,  nearly  opposite  Bingen,  lies  Riidesheim,  of 
wine-growing  celebrity. 

1.  Sudesheim.  —  Hotels.  ^'Dakmstadter  Hof,  R.  from  2-3,  B.  1,  D. 
3  m.,  also  'pension^  good  wines;  *'Jckg,  at  the  station,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  2, 
B.  1,  D.  2V2  m. ;  *Rhbinstein,  R.  from  IVs,  B.  1,  D.  2V8  m.;  Ehbhabd, 
new;  Bsllbvus;  ^HdTSL  Kbass;  Massmann;  Tbaubb;  DobhSfeb,  plain 
and  moderate;  all  on  the  Rhine. 

Restaurants  at  the  station  and  the  *RheinhalU^  opposite,  with  view. 
—  Wine  at  the  Redesheimer  Winzer  Verein,  Drosselgasse ;  *Joh.  MUller^ 
in  the  same  street;  WaUmach^e  Old  Oerman  Wine-Room^  at  the  station  of 
the  Zahnradbahn ;  at  the  RUdesheimer  Wine  Room,  etc.  —  Beer  at  the  Oer- 
mania,  on  the  Rhine. 

Bafhs.    Two  establishments  on  the  Rhine. 

Oarriages  to  the  Niederwald,  see  p.  127;  carr.  with  two  horses  to 
Schloss  Johannisberg  6 ,  there  and  back  9  m.,  via  Schloss  Johannisberg 
to  Oestrich  10  m. 

Zahnradbahn,  or  Cog- Wheel  Railway,  to  the  Niederwald  Monument, 
see  p.  128.  The  station  is  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  1/2  M.  from  the 
other  railway  station,  and  BOO  yds.  from  the  steamboat  pier.  Omnibus 
between  the  stations,  10  pf. 

Steam  Ferry  Boat  to  Bingen  and  Bingerbriick^  almost  every  hour, 
starting  from  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the  station,  in  connection 
with  the  trains  (fare  20  pf.). 

Boats  from  Riidesheim  to  Bingen  or  Bingerbriick,  1-4  persons  2  m., 
for  each  additional  person  10  pf.,  trunk  10  pf. ;  to  Assmannshausen  1-6  pers. 


122    RouU  17.  RODESHEIM.  From  Cohlent 

3  m.,  each  additional  person  10  pf. ;  to  Rheinstein  and  Assmannshausen, 
with  Btay  of  2  hrs.  at  the  former,  5  m.,  without  respect  to  the  number  of 
persons.    Two  boatmen  must  accompany  each  boat. 

Rudesheim  (256  ft.),  a  district-town  with  4040  inbab.,  most  of 
whom  live  by  the  culture  of  the  vine,  lies  in  a  sunny  situation  at 
the  S.  base  of  the  Niederwald  (p.  127),  at  the  point  where  the 
valley  of  the  Rhine  expands  into  the  broad  basin  of  the  Rheingaii. 
The  celebrated  wine  of  the  place  can  boast  the  longest  pedigree  on 
the  Rhine,  though  some  of  Its  brethren  of  the  Rheingau  are  now 
considered  superior.  The  best  sorts  are  yielded  by  the  vineyards  be- 
hind the  town,  called  the  Hinterhausj  the  Rottland,  close  to  the  sta- 
tion, and  those  of  the  Berg  extending  below  the  town  to  Ehrenfels. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  are  the  Prote8tant  Churehj  built  in 
1855,  and  the  Adlerthurm,  a  mediaeval  watch-tower.  Adjacent  are 
a  spacious  winter-harbour  and  the  lower  station  of  the  Nieder- 
wald  railway  (p.  127).  —  The  Gothic  Roman  Catholic  Church  in  the 
market-place,  built  in  1390-1400,  has  interesting  vaulting  and 
contains  two  Renaissance  monuments  of  the  Bromsers  of  Rudesheim 
(1543  and  1567),  one  of  the  most  distinguished  knightly  families 
on  the  Rhine,  which  became  extinct  in  the  17th  century.  Of  their 
old  castle  the  only  relic  is  the  Vorderhurg,  a  fragment  of  a  square 
tower  near  the  market-place. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the  station,  rises  the  Brom- 
serbnrgy  or  properly  the  Niederhurg,  the  property  of  Count  Ingel- 
heim,  a  massive  rectangular  structure,  108ft.  long,  70  ft.  broad,  and 
64 ft.  high.  The  three  vaulted  stories  belong  to  the  12th  cent.,  when 
they  were  bailt  with  the  remains  of  an  earlier  edifice.  In  the  centre 
is  a  small  well-like  court  (described  by  Goethe  in  1814).  The  castle 
was  originally  the  seat  of  the  Knights  of  Rudesheim,  who  in  1282 
were  compelled  to  become  vassals  of  the  Archbishop  of  Mayence  as  a 
punishment  for  brigandage.  Down  to  the  14th  cent,  it  was  fre- 
quently occupied  by  the  Archbishops  of  Mayence,  who  afterwards 
preferred  the  more  modern  Ehrenfels.  Part  of  it  was  destroyed  in 
1640.  The  interior  has  been  restored  and  handsomely  fitted  up  by 
the  Counts  of  Ingelheim.  The  Oberburg^  or  Boosenburgj  an  old 
tower  of  tapering  form  behind  the  Bromserburg,  whidi  for  300  years 
belonged  to  the  Counts  Boos,  is  now  the  property  of  a  wine-mer- 
chant. In  the  Obergasse  (No.  42),  behind  the  Boosenburg,  is  the 
ancestral  Mansion  of  the  Bromsers ;  the  building,  with  a  tower  and 
a  turret  at  the  side,  is  still  well-preserved,  and  is  now  used  as  a 
poor-house  and  asylum  for  children. 

Pleasant  walk  of  IV2  hr.  to  the  Kammer/orst^  a  forester's  house  (re- 
freshments), near  which  are  the  Teu/elskaderich  and  the  Jagerhorn^  two 
good  points  of  view.  From  the  Kammerforst  a  broad  track  leads  through  the 
woods  to  Lorch.  —  From  Rudesheim  to  the  ruin  of  Ehrenfels  fp.  118),  V2  ^^^ 

At  Rudesheim  begins  the  *Rheinoau,  a  rich  and  beautiful 
district,  which  produces  some  of  the  most  famous  and  costly  wines 
in  the  world.    The  name  is  now  applied  to  the  tract  on  the  E.  (here 


of 
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a- 

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'irif'iVr 


to  Mayenee,  JOHANNISBERG.  17.  Route.     123 

N.)bank  of  the  Rhine  between  RQdesheim  and  Niederwalluf,  abont 
12  M.  in  length  and  5  M.  in  breadth.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Archbishopric  of  Mayenee  and  extended  down  the  river  as  far  as 
Lorch.  It  was  once  completely  enclosed  by  the  *Oebuek\  a  densely 
interwoven  and  impenetrable  belt  of  trees  abont  50  paces  in  width. 
A  «Walk  through  the  Rheingaa  may  be  taken  as  follows.  From 
EUville  to  (21/4  M.)  Kiedrieh  (p.  126) ,  and  then  past  the  large  lunatic 
asylum  of  Eichberg  to  (3  M.)  Ebet^ch:  thence  over  the  Bos  and  past 
the  Steinberg  to  (2V4  M.)  Hallgarten,  and  via  8chloss  VoUrat/u  to  (3  M.) 
Johannisberg ;  then  back  to  the  Rhine  at  (IVa  M.)  Oeitenheim.  An  ex- 
cursion should  also  be  made  from  BltviUe  to  the  Bi^enh&uter  Ildhe  and 
Rauent?ial  (see  p.  133). 

On  the  summit  of  theNlederwald,  to  the  left,  rises  the  National 
Monument  (p.  128).  —  After  passing  Kempten  and  (rail,  stat.) 
OauUheim,  we  reach  — 

1.  Oeisenheim  (^Frankfurter  Hofy  R.  &  B.  2^/4  m.,  also  'pens.'; 
GermaniOy  good  wine  at  both),  a  pleasant  little  town  with  3125 
inhab.,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  8th  century,  and  now 
boasting  of  a  number  of  country-houses  and  handsome  buildings. 
The  late-Gothic  Churchy  completed  in  1510,  has  a  conspicuous 
portal ,  and  open  towers  of  red  sandstone  added  by  Hoffmann  in 
1838.  The  Bathhaus  was  erected  in  1856.  At  the  E.,  or  upper, 
entrance  to  the  town  is  a  chateau  of  Count  Ingelheiniy  the  Villa 
Rheinbergy  now  occupied  by  a  wine-merchant,  and  the  residence  of 
Count  Sehonbomy  and  at  the  W.  end  is  the  \illa  of  Consul  von 
Ladty  with  an  interesting  garden  and  orchards.  Near  the  station 
is  the  Oinological  and  Pomological  Academyy  a  government-insti- 
tution for  the  scientiflo  instruction  of  wine  and  fruit  growers.  Be- 
hind rises  the  red  Bothebergy  the  slopes  of  which  produce  the  best 
Geisenheim  wine. 

On  the  hill  behind  Geisenheim  near  Eihineen  (Schdfer^s  Tavemh  rises 
the  old  nunnery  of  that  name,  founded  in  1148,  secularised  in  18()2,  and 
used  as  an  arsenal  down  to  1836.  The  church  has  since  been  restored  to 
its  sacred  uses.  Farther  to  the  17.E.  are  the  remains  of  the  monastery  of 
Nothgottes  (Agonia  Domini)^  consecrated  in  1390,  now  a  farm.  About  «/4  M. 
farther  N.  (2V4  M.  from  Riidesheim)  is  the  monastery  of  Marienihalj  now 
suppressed,  picturesquely  situated  among  woods. 

*  Schloss  JohannlBberg ,  a  conspicuous  point  in  the  landscape, 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  vine -clad  eminence,  341  ft.  above  the 
Rhine,  may  be  reached  in  ^2  ^r.  by  a  good  road  either  from  Geisen- 
heim or  from  Winkel  (see  below).  The  extensive  ch&teau  with  its 
two  wings  was  erected  in  1757-59  by  the  Prince-Abbot  of  Fulda, 
on  the  site  of  an  old  Benedictine  monastery  founded  by  Arch- 
bishop Ruthard  in  1106.  The  abbey-church  was  rebuilt  in  1717- 
30.  In  1802,  on  the  suppression  of  the  Abbey  of  Fulda  (which  pur- 
chased the  'Berg'  from  Mayenee  in  1716),  the  castle  became  the 
property  of  the  Prince  of  Orange,  in  1807  it  was  presented  by  Na- 
poleon to  Marshal  Kellermann,  and  in  1816  it  was  conferred  by  the 
Emp.  of  Austria  as  an  imperial  fief  on  Prince  Clemens  of  Metter- 
nich,  who  did  not  fully  recognise  the  sovereignty  of  the  Duke  of 


124    Route  27.  HATTENHEIM.  From  CohUnz 

Nassau  till  1851.  His  son,  Prince  Richard  Mettemioh,  is  the  pre- 
sent proprietor.  The  far-famed  vineyards  (comp.  p.  xxi),  in  area 
about  40  acres,  yielding,  in  good  years,  an  income  ofTOOOf.,  axe 
most  carefully  cultivated,  and  take  the  lead  among  the  vineyards  of 
the  Rhine,  although  of  late  years  there  has  been  a  great  rivalry  be- 
tween the  wines  of  Johannisberg  and  Steinberg  (p.  126).  Visitors 
are  not  admitted  to  the  interior  of  the  chlteau,  though  when  the 
family  is  absent,  they  may  enjoy  the  striking  view  from  the  terrace 
in  front.  (Good  Johannisberger  may  be  procured  from  the  steward 
at  4^2  or  ^  m-  per  hottle.)  The  Chapel  of  the  chateau,  consecrated 
in  1130,  and  now  completely  modernised,  contains  the  tomb  of  the 
Rhenish  historian  Nicholas  Vogt  (d.  1836;  comp.  p.  119),  the  tutor 
of  Prince  Metternich.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  chSlteau,  on  the  road  to 
Winkel,  is  the  villa  of  Herr  Mumm  of  Frankfort.  —  On  the  Hansel- 
herg^  a  hill  lower  down  the  Rhine,  a  little  below  Johannisberg,  Is 
the  villa  of  Consul  Bauer  of  Moscow. 

A  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  Schloss  we  reach  Dorf  Johannis- 
berg (*Zum  Schloss  Johannisberg,  also  a  'pension'),  with  an  estab- 
lishment for  nervous  patients.  To  the  S.W.  is  Johannisberg  im 
Orund  (•Kauter's  Tavern),  a  village  with  an  extensive  manufactory 
of  printing-presses,  whence  we  may  now  descend  to  the  railway. 
Near  the  latter  village,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schloss,  lies  the  ^Klause\ 
the  remains  of  a  nunnery  founded  by  Rucholf,  the  brother-in-law  of 
Archbishop  Ruthard  (see  p.  123),  and  suppressed  in  1452. 

I.  Winkel  (Rheingauer  Hof,  with  garden;  Dbring)  and  Mittel- 
heim  (Ruthmann's  Inn)  together  form  one  long  street,  so  long  that 
Goethe  has  described  it  as  very  trying  to  the  patience.  At  the  W. 
extremity  is  situated  the  country-house  of  Herr  Brentano,  mention- 
ed along  with  Goethe  in  Bettina  von  Arnim's  'Correspondence  of  a 
Child',  -where  memorials  of  the  poet  are  still  preserved. 

At  (I.)  Oestrich  (Steinheimerj  Schwan,  both  on  the  Rhine ;  Kra- 
mer) the  inhabitants  of  the  Rheingau  formerly  swore  fealty  to  the 
newly-elected  Archbishops  of  Mayence,  who  came  here  for  the  pur- 
pose, but  were  obliged  first  to  confirm  the  privileges  of  the  people. 
The  village  with  its  projecting  crane,  and  Johannisberg  in  the  back- 
ground ,  forms  a  picturesque  scene.  Near  the  railway  stands  the 
pretty  villa  of  Herr  von  Stosch,  the  Prussian  ex-minister. 

On  the  slope  behind  Oestrich  lies  HaUgarten,  in  the  midst  of  vine- 
yards ;  near  it  is  the  well-preserved  ch&teau  of  Vollratfu,  probably  erected 
in  136K2  by  a  member  of  the  Oreiffenklau  family,  in  whose  possession  it 
still  is.    Above  Hallgarten  rises  the  Hallgarter  Zange  (1900  ft. ;  ^View). 

Before  reaching  (1.)  Hattenheim  (Ress ;  beer  at  NolVs),  a  vil- 
lage of  1400  inhab.,  with  extensive  cellars  for  the  storage  of  wine, 
the  road  passes  Schloss  Reichartshausen ,  in  a  small  park,  1  M. 
from  Oestrich,  the  seat  of  the  Countess  Benkendorf. 

Between  Hattenheim  and  Erbach  lie  the  islands  of  SandaUy 
connected  with  the  left  bank,  and  Westfdlische  Au^  or  Rheinau, 
To  the  left  of  the   road   between   these   villages  is    the  Marco- 


to  Mayence,  ERBACU.  27.  Route,     125 

brunnen  ('boundary-welV) ,  near  which  are  the  vineyards  yielding 
Marcobrunner,  one  of  the  most  highly  prized  Rhenish  wines,  and 
ehiefiy  belonging  to  Oonnt  Schonborn.  The  different-coloured  posts 
indicate  the  limits  of  the  varions  properties ;  the  white  posts  mark 
the  lands  belonging  to  government. 

1.  Erbach  (*Engtl;  Wallflaeh;  NasBauer  Hof),  mentioned  in 
history  as  early  as  980,  is  partly  concealed  from  the  steamboat- 
passenger  by  the  island  oiKheinau^  172^*  in  length.  Near  the 
railway-station  is  the  Villa  of  Qtneral  Franaecky.  At  the  W.  end 
of  the  village  is  the  oh&teau  of  Reinhardahauaen ,  the  property  of 
Prince  Albert  of  Prussia ,  containing  a  collection  of  pictures  and 
sculptures;  adm.  from  1st  May  to  Ist  Oct.  on  week-days,  10-6 
(1  m.,  for  a  charitable  object). 

A  broad  path  leads  inland  from  Erbach  to  the  (2Vs  M.)  once  celebrated 
and  richly-endowed  Cistercian  Abbey  of  Sb«rbaeh,  founded  in  1116,  erect- 
ed into  an  abbey  by  St.  Bernard  of  Clairvaux  in  1131 ,  and  situated  in 
one  of  those  sequestered  valleys  whicli  this  order  always  selected  for 
their  monasteries.  (^Bemardns  valles,  montes  Benedietus  amabat,  oppida 
Franciscus,  celebres  Ignatius  urbes.*) 

The  Abbey,  secularised  in  1803,  and  now  used  as  a  House  of  Cor- 
rection, was  erected  at  various  periods  from  the  12th  to  the  15th  century. 
The  Bomanesque  Abbey  Churchy  consecrated  in  1186,  recently  restored, 
contains  a  number  of  *M<mument$ ,  most  of  them  of  abbots  of  the  12-18th 
centuries.  The  Gothic  monument  which  encloses  the  tombs  of  Gerlach, 
Archbishop  of  Mayence  (d.  1371),  and  Adolph  II.  of  Kassau  (d.  1474), 
particularly  deserves  inspection.  The  Refectory  of  the  13th  cent.,  now 
occupied  by  wine-presses,  the  Gtothlc  Chapter  House  of  the  close  of  the 
14th  cent,  (restored),  the  large  Dormitory  (partly  altered),  and  a  part  of 
the  cloisters  which  is  still  preserved  are  all  deserving  of  notice.  The 
vaults  below  these  buildings  are  used  as  wine-cellars.  The  important 
wine-auctions  which  take  place  here  every  spring  are  attended  by  all  the 
most  noted  Bhenish  wine-merchants. 

Close  to  the  abbey  is  the  celebrated  Steinberg  vineyard,  60  acres  in 
area,  which  was  carefully  cultivated  by  the  industrious  monks  of  Eber- 
bach  from  the  12th  to  the  19th  century,  and  is  now  the  property  of 
government.  The  vines  are  tended  with  even  greater  care  than  those 
on  the  Johannisberg,  and  their  produce  is  not  less  highly  esteemed.  The 
"^Boa  (an  old  word  for  ^hiir),  an  eminence  close  to  the  monastery,  875  ft. 
above  the  sea-level,  commands  a  magnificent  prospect,  embracing  the 
Steinberg  vineyard.  To  the  E.  of  the  Eberbach  valley,  conspicuously 
situated  on  a  hill,  is  the  extensive  Lunatic  Asylum  of  JSicM>erg. 

1.  Eltville  (290  ft. ;  *H6tel  Reisenbach,  at  the  station,  R.  IV2- 
2  m.,  B.  70pf. ;  restaurants  at  the  Mainzer  Hof^  Bahnhof-Str. ,  and 
Craiz's  in  the  town ;  Burg  Crass,  see  below),  or  Elfeld,  with  3200 
Inhab.,  was  once  the  capital  of  the  Rheingau.  The  German  king 
Giinther  of  Schwarzburg  resigned  his  dignity  here  in  1349,  when 
besieged  and  hard  pressed  by  his  opponent  Charles  IV.  In  the  14th 
and  15th  cent.  Eltville  was  a  residence  of  the  Archbishops  of  May- 
ence ,  to  which  they  often  resorted  to  escape  from  civic  broils.  As 
early  as  1465  a  printing-press ,  established  by  Gutenberg  himself 
after  the  unfortunate  termination  of  his  lawsuit  with  Fust  (p.  151), 
was  in  active  operation  here,  only  25  years  after  the  invention  of  the 
art.  The  handsome  and  lofty  watch-tower,  bearing  the  arms  of  the 
founder,  with  the  adjoining  castle-wall,  is  all  that  now  remains  of 


126    Route  17,  BIEBRICH.  From  CobUnz 

a  castle  erected  in  1330  by  Baldwin,  Archbishop  of  Treves,  then 
governor  of  Mayence.  The  church-tower  belongs  to  the  same  date. 
The  chnrch  contains  a  Renaissance  monument.  In  and  about 
the  town  are  a  number  of  villas  and  country-houses  which  give  a 
handsome  appearance  to  the  place;  that  of  Count  £ltz,  in  the 
Haupt-Strasse,  in  the  German  BenaisBance  style,  is  among  the 
most  imposing.  On  the  Rhine  is  a  War  Monument.  Omnibus  and 
diligence  to  Schlangenbad  and  Schwalbach,  see  p.  133. 

A  charming  excursion  may  be  made  from  Eltville  to  the  (3/4  hr.) 
*'J)ubenhdu»er  ffOhe  and  (1  hr.)  Rauenthal;  comp.  p.  133. 

About  IV4  M.  to  the  K. W. ,  concealed  amidst  vine-clad  hills ,  lies  the 
large  village  of  Xiedrich  (Engel;  Krone),  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims.  The 
Gothic  church  of  8t.  Valentine^  and  the  chapel  of  "^St.  Michael,  erected 
in  1440  in  the  ornate  late -Gothic  style,  restored  in  1858,  merit  a  visit. 
Near  Eiedrich  is  the  Orafenherg,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  vineyards  of 
the  Bheingau;  it  is  crowned  by  the  castle  of  8eharfen»tein,  which  was 
erected  by  the  Archbishops  of  Mayence  at  the  close  of  the  12th  cent., 
dismantled  by  the  Swedes  in  1682,  and  finally  by  the  French  in  1682.  — 
Kiedrich  is  1V2  M.  from  Eberbach  (p.  125). 

Beyond  Eltville  several  more  villas  are  passed,  the  most  conspi- 
cuous of  which  areJBur^  CrcLss,  with  a  large  garden-restaurant,  Villa 
Rheinberg,  and  the  Steinheimer  Hof,  the  last  belonging  to  the  Duke 
of  Nassau.  The  island  opposite,  called  t\it  EltvilUr  Au,  is  occupied 
by  a  large  farm.  The  church-tower  of  Rauenthal  (p.  133)  is  visible 
on  the  hills  in  the  background. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhine  is  Budenheim  (p.  131). 

1.  Niederwallnf  (*£^cAu7an,  good  wine,  *Qartenfeld,  both  with 
gardens ;  *Zur  Schonen  Auasicht,  at  the  station),  a  place  with  1200 
iuhab.,  mentioned  as  early  as  770,  lies  at  the  upper  end  of  the  rich 
wine-district  of  the  Rheingau  (p.  122).  The  road  from  Niederwalluf 
to  Schlangenbad  and  Schwalbach  unites  at  Neudorf  with  the  high- 
road from  Eltville  (p.  133). 

1.  Schierstein  (Drei  Kronen;  Seipel),  an  old  village,  with  a 
manufactory  of  sparkling  wine  and  a  large  river-harbour  constructed 
in  1858,  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  orchard.  About  IY2  M.  in- 
land is  the  ruin  of  Frauenstein  with  the  village  (Weisses  Ross)  of 
that  name ;  on  the  hill ,  5  min.  to  the  E.  of  the  latter  stands  the 
Nurnberger  flb/"  (refreshments)  with  extensive  view. 

1.  Biebrich.  —  Hotels.  *EdkopaischerHof;  *Bellevuk,  with  a  gar- 
den-restaurant-, *Kkone;  all  with  gardens  on  the  Rhine;  Nassauek  Hok, 
open  in  summer  only.    Beer  at  WuWs,  Kasernen-Str. 

Omnibus  to  Wiesbaden  from  the  steamboats,  see  p.  136. 

Bailway  Stations.  That  of  the  Taunus  Railway  (for  Gastel  and  Frank- 
fort) lies  on  the  Rhine  ;  that  of  the  Railway  of  the  Right  Bank  (Wiesbaden, 
the  Rheingau)  is  at  Mosbach  (p.  133),  near  the  N.E.  gate  of  the  park. 

Steamboat  to  Mayence  (p.  142),  every  hour. 

Biebrich  (280  ft.),  which  with  Mosbach  (p.  133)  now  forms  one 
town  of  9667  inhab.,  is  a  busy  place,  with  iron,  cloth,  glass,  and 
various  other  manufactories.  Down  to  the  Prussian  occupation  in 
1866  it  was  a  summer-residence  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau.  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  town  Is  a  Scf^ool  for  Non-commissioned  Officers^ 


to  Mayence.  NIEDEttWALD.  18.  Route.     127 

built  of  red  brick  as  a  banack  in  1859,  and  at  the  lower  the  Palace 
of  Bnke  Adolf  of  Nassau,  completed  in  1706  in  the  Renaissance 
style.  The  extensiTe  and  well-kept  garden  and  *Park  abound  with 
beautiful  walks.  The  Mooshurg,  a  miniature  castle  in  the  palace- 
garden,  built  in  1806  in  the  mediseval  style,  occupies  the  site  of 
the  imperial  palace  of  Bihurk,  where  Louis  the  German  resided  in 
874  (fee  40  pf.).  Near  the  pier  is  a  Monument  in  commemoration 
of  the  war  of  1870-71,  by  Hoffmann.  —  The  ElUahtihenhldhe^  near 
Curve  (p.  224),  a  hill  provided  with  benches,  affords  a  fine  view  of 
Biebrich  and  the  Rhine. 

Beyond  Biebrich  the  steamboat  passes  between  two  islands ,  the 
Jngelheimef  Au  on  the  right  and  the  Petersau  on  the  left.  On  the 
latter,  at  his  summer-residence ,  the  Emp.  Louis  the  Pious,  son 
and  successor  of  Charlemagne ,  expired  in  840.  His  body  was  con- 
veyed to  Metz  and  interred  there. 

The  steamboat-pier  at  Mayence  is  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town, 
below  the  bridge-of-boats,  and  V2  ^*  ^^^^  ^^  railway -station, 
which  is  situated  on  the  Rhine  at  the  upper  end. 

Mayence,  see  R.  22. 

18.  The  Niederwald. 

See  Map^  p.  122. 

Zahnradbahnen  (Racl-and-Pinion  Railways).  From  Rudesheim  to  the 
Monument  on  the  I^iederwald,  and  from  Assmannshauten  to  the  Jagdschloss 
in  10-12  min.  (fares,  ascent  1  m.,  descent  i/g  m.,  return-ticket  to  starting 
point  1  m.  25,  with  option  of  returning  either  to  Rudesheim  or  to  Ass- 
mannshausen,  1  m.  50  pf. ;  children,  half-fare ;  subscription  for  10  trips, 
5  m.,  for  a  year,  15  m.). 

Garriage-and-Pair  from  Biidesheim  to  the  Niederwald  and  Jagdschloss 
within  2  hrs.,  1-2  pers.  6,  3-4  pers.  7  m.,  there  and  back,  within  3  hrs.,  7  or 
8  m.,  descending  to  Assmannshausen,  9  or  10  m.  \  the  same,  returning  along 
the  Bhine,  10  or  11  m. ;  same  excursion  from  Assmannshausen,  and  then  by 
the  Johannlsberg  to  Biidesheim  17  m. 

With  the  assistance  of  the  mountain-railway,  from  IV2  to  2  hrs.  is 
sufficient  for  a  visit  to  the  Niederwald  (Rudesheim,  the  monument,  the  Rossel, 
the  Jagdschloss,  and  Assmannshausen,  or  in  the  reverse  order).  Walkers 
also  require  little  more  than  2  hrs.,  although  in  both  cases  more  time 
may  be  profitably  devoted  to  the  excursion. 

The  *iriederwald  (1083  ft.),  a  wooded  hill,  clothed  with 
vineyards  on  its  S.  slopes,  which  are  known  as  the  'Riidesheimer 
Berg',  rises  from  the  Rhine  at  the  point  where  the  river  quits  the 
Rheingau  and  suddenly  turns  towards  the  N.  It  lies  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  narrow  part  of  the  river,  which  begins  at  the  Seven  Mts., 
and  vies  with  the  latter  as  a  point  of  attraction  to  excursionists. 
The  new  National  Monument  forms  an  additional  object  of  interest. 

From  RtJDBSHBiM  (p.  121)  to  the  Nibdbrwald  Monumbnt. 
Most  travellers  now  use  the  Ra4ik-and'Pinion  Baihoay  (see  above ; 
station,  p.  121),  which  ascends  gently  through  vineyards,  to  the 
terminus  (restaurant),  about  3  min.  from  the  monument.  The 
gradient  is  at  first  1 :  12 ;  at  the  top,  before  the  wood  is  entered, 


128     Route  18,  NIEDERWALD. 

1 : 5.  The  Temple^  near  the  end-station,  once  a  famous  point  of  view, 
has  been  completely  superseded  by  the  terrace  of  the  monument. 

Walkers  reach  the  monument  in  ^/^  hr.  either  by  the  ^Hohlweg*, 
to  the  N.  of  the  railway-station,  or  by  the  'Kuhweg\  passing  the 
Roman  Catholic  church.  Both  these  paths  pass  the  Temple  (see 
above'],  but  the  first  is  closed  in  Sept.  and  Oct.,  during  the  vintage. 

The  **National  Monument  on  the  Niederwald,  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  the  unanimous  rising  of  the  German  people  and  the 
foundation  of  the  new  German  empire  in  1870-71 ,  stands  upon  a 
projecting  spur  of  the  hill  (980  ft.  above  the  sea- level;  740  ft. 
above  the  Rhine),  opposite  Bingen,  and  is  conspicuous  far  and 
wide.  It  was  begun  in  1877  from  the  designs  of  Prof,  SehiUing 
of  Dresden  and  was  inaugurated  in  1883  in  presence  of  the  Em- 
peror and  numerous  other  German  princes.  The  huge  architec- 
tural basis  is  78  ft.  high,  while  the  noble  figure  of  Germania,  with 
the  imperial  crown  and  the  laurel- wreathed  sword ,  an  emblem  of 
the  unity  and  strength  of  the  empire,  is  33  ft.  in  height.  The  prin- 
cipal relief,  on  the  side  of  the  pedestal  facing  the  river,  symbolises 
the  'Wacht  am  Rhein'.  It  contains  portraits  of  King  William  of 
Prussia  and  other  German  princes  and  generals ,  together  with  re- 
presentatives of  the  troops  from  the  different  parts  of  Germany, 
with  the  text  of  the  famous  song  below ;  to  the  right  and  left  are 
allegorical  figures  of  Peace  and  War ,  while  below  are  Rhenus  and 
Mosella,  the  latter  as  the  future  guardian  of  the  W.  frontier  of  the 
empire.  The  fine  reliefs  on  the  sides  of  the  pedestal  represent  the 
departure  and  the  return  of  the  troops.  The  total  cost  of  this 
magnificent  monument  amounted  to  1,100,000  m.  (55,000  i.).  An 
excellent  model  of  it  is  shewn  in  the  custodian's  house,  behind  the 
monument.  —  The  terrace  in  front  commands  an  admirable  survey 
of  the  entire  Rheingau,  bounded  on  the  S.E.  by  the  Taunus  Mts., 
on  the  S.  by  the  Melibocus,  and  on  theW.  by  the  distant  Donners- 
berg. 

A  finger-post  immediately  behind  the  custodian's  house  indi- 
cates the  path,  marked  on  the  Map,  to  (25  mln.)  the  'Rossel'  (see 
below).  —  The  *Tempelweg',  beginning  at  the  railway-station, 
leads  past  the  back  of  the  monument  to  (1  M.)  the  Jagdschloss. 

Those  who  ascend  from  Asbmannshausen  (p.  118)  enjoy  a  more 
gradual  and  striking  development  of  the  views.  Leaving  the  Rhine, 
we  follow  the  street  leading  through  a  gateway  above  the  Anker 
Hotel  and  immediately  afterwards  passing  the  railway- station 
(p.  132)  and  then  the  church.  About  60  paces  farther  on,  to  the 
right,  at  the  end  of  the  village,  is  the  station  of  the  Zahnkab- 
SAHN  (comp.  p.  127).  The  line  ascends  the  S.  side  of  the  val- 
ley, the  opposite  slopes  of  which,  exposed  to  the  influence  of 
the  morning  sun,  yield  the  esteemed  red  wine  known  as  Assmanns- 
hauser.  At  AuUiausenj  about  half-way  up,  the  railway  turns  due 
S.  towards  the  Jagdschloss,   100  paces  short  of  which  It  ends. 


NIEDERWALD.  18.  Route.    129 

—  Walkers  dlTerge  to  the  rig^t  from  the  cart-road  (whleh  remains 
in  the  Talley)  at  a  small  shrine  ahont  ^4  M.  from  the  churoh,  cross 
the  Zahnradbahn,  and  ascend  the  winding  path  through  underwood 
to  (V2  ^^O  ^^  platean. 

The  Jaffdfehlois  (1086  ft. ;  R.,  L.,  ft  A.  2V2  m.,  D.  3  m.,  'pens/ 
in  the  'Logirhans'  opposite  10  m.)  belongs  to  government.  Pietnr- 
esqne  silvan  walks  in  the  neighboarhood. 

From  the  Jagdsehloss  the  ^Tempelweg'  leads  direct  to  the  Monu- 
ment in  20  minutes.  Walkers  should  select  the  path  leading  by 
the  Rossel.  Passing  the  'Logtrhaus'  on  the  left,  they  reach  in  10  min. 
the  Zaubtrh^Me  or  'magic  caTe\  a  small  hut  with  three  apertures 
commanding  views,  through  clearings  in  the  wood,  of  the  Olemens- 
«ap»lle,  the  Falkenbarg,  and  Rheinstein.  The  efllMtmay  be  height- 
ened by  approaching  the  point  of  view  through  a  narrow  and  dark 
passage,  60  or  60  paces  long. 

Five  min.  walk  farther  is  the  Sossel  (1125  ft.  above  the  sea, 
880  ft.  above  the  river),  an  artificial  ruin  on  the  highest  point  of 
the  Niederwald,  commanding  a  beautiful  prospect :  to  the  W.  the 
valley  of  the  Nahe,  with  the  Donnersberg  and  Soonwald  in  the  back- 
ground ;  to  the  right  the  wooded  heights  of  the  Hunsriiok.  Far  be- 
low, the  Rhine  rushes  through  the  Bingerloch,  past  the  ruin  of 
Ehrenfels  and  the  Mouse  Tower.  On  the  opposite  bank  lies  Blngen 
with  the  castle  of  Klopp ,  sheltered  by  the  Rochusberg.  On  the 
right,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  rises  Rheinstein,  with  the  Swiss 
bouse ;  farther  down  stands  the  Clemenscapelle,  beyond  it  the  Fal- 
kenburg.  -^  The  Klippe^  a  point  of  view  to  the  W.  and  below  the 
Rossel,  commands  a  picturesquely  framed  view  of  the  Rheinstein, 
Clemenskapelle,  Burg  Falkenstein  and  Trechtlingshausen,  and  is 
most  conveniently  visited  from  the  Zauberhohle  before  ascending 
to  the  Rossel. 

A  flnger-post  at  the  foot  of  the  Rossel  indicates  the  forest  path, 
marked  on  the  Map,  to  (25  min.)  the  National  Monument.  Half- 
way is  the  Eremitage ,  an  open  blockhouse  with  a  picturesque  view 
of  Blngen.  At  the  stone-bench,  5  min.  farther  on,  we  turn  to  the 
right.  —  The  National  Monument,  see  p.  128.  —  To  the  Rhine  at 
Rudesheim  walkers  require  about  ^2  b^* 

19.  From  Coblenz  to  Uayence. 

Bailway  on  the  Left  Bank. 

Comp.  Map*,  pp,  100,  132. 

Railway  to  Bingerbnick,  39  M.,  express  in  i-l«/4  br.  (fares  5  m.,  3  m. 
70,  2  m.  50  pf.).  —  From  Bingerbriick  to  Mayence,  20  M.,  in  86  min.  (fares 
3  m.,  1  m.  70  pf.,  1  m.).    View  to  the  left. 

Railway  o»  the  Right  Bank,  see  R.  30.  Return-tickets,  available  for  1-2 
days  and  allowing  the  jonmey  to  be  broken  once  in  each  direction,  may 
be  nsed  on  either  bank  as  far  as  Bingerbriick  and  BOdMheim  (see  p.  68). 

—  Steamboat,  see  R.  17. 

Coblenz,  see  R.  16.    As  far  as  Blngen  the  line  generally  runs 
Baedekbb'8  Rhine.  10th  Edit.  9 


1310    BofUe  19.  CAPBLLER  From  CobUnz 

ekwe  to  the  river,  «ad  pMset  tlie  plftcea  more  minutely  deiorlbed 
in  R.  17.  M«ay  of  the  beauties  «f  the  aeenery  are  of  ooane  lost  to 
the  railway-traveU^t. 

Beyond  the  Moselbdhtihof  at  Goblenz  the  line  skirts  the  Kar«- 
thante  (r.),  at  a  little  distance  from  the  rlTer.  A  view  of  the  island 
of  Oberwerth  and  the  fortrese  of  Shvenbzeitstein  is  obtained  to  the 
left.  33/4  M.  Cai)eU«n  (steamb.  stat.)  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  castle 
of  SUlsenfOs  (p.  102).  Opposijte  are  OberUhnsteln  and  the  castle 
of  Lahneek.  After  passing  the  Konigsftuhl,  which  rises  to  the  left, 
the  line  intersects  the  old  village  of  Mh^ns  (p.  104).  Farther  up, 
on  the  opposite  bank,  is  Braubach  with  the  Marksbuxg,  and  beyond 
it  the  ch4teau  of  Liebeneck. 

I2V9  M.  Boppwd  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  105);  15V2  M.  Salvia  (p. 
108).  A  little  farther  on  are  the  eastles  ai  Sterrenberg  and  Lie- 
benstein  and  the  convent  of  Bornhofen ;  Still  farther  up  are  Wel«- 
joaich  and  the  Mouse. 

22  M.  81.  Ooar  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  108).  The  station  lies  on  a 
height  at  the  back  of  the  town.  On  the  opposite  bank  is  St.  Gears'- 
hausen  with  tiie  Gat.  To  the  left,  farther  on,  we  obtain  a  view 
of  the  Lurlei.  Three  tunnels^  beyond  which  is  (26  M.)  Oberwesel 
(steamb.  stat. ;  p.  112).  We  neat  have  a  view  on  the  left  of  Caub^ 
the  Pfklz,  and  the  ruin  of  Gutenfels  (p.  113),  and  then  reach  ^ 

30 M.  Bacharach  (steamb.  stat.;  p.  114);  32 M.  NiederhAtm- 
bach  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  114);  36  M.  Tredhtling9h€m8cn(p,  117).  On 
the  opposite  bank,  Assmannshausen  and  Lorch  successively  come 
in  sight.   At  Bingerbriick  the  wider  part  of  the  valley  is  entered. 

39  M.  Bisgerbruok  (see  p.  121)  lies  on  the  left  (Prussian)  bank 
of  the  Nahe,  about  ^^  M.  from  Bingen,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
Mouee  Tower  (p.  119).  Travellers  bound  fbr  Kreuznach  (p.  163), 
Saarbrilcken,  Treves,  Metz,  etc.,  change  carriages  here.  ■—  Steam- 
boat to  BUdeskeim  (p.  121).   Oomp.  Map  p.  122. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  N&he.  To  the  left  a  view  of  the 
Niederwald  and  the  ruined  castle  of  Khrenfels  (p.  118). 

39 V2  M.  Bingen  (steamb.  stat),  see  p.  119.  The  line  now  skirts 
the  base  of  the  Rochusberg  (several  villas  to  the  right),  unites  with 
the  line  from  Alzey  (R.  35)  and  begins  to  diverge  from  the  Rhine. 
42  M.  Oaulsheim.  44^2  M.  Oau-Algesheim,  A  view  of  the  Johan- 
nlsberg  to  the  left  is  sometimes  obtained,  but  the  country  generally 
is  flat  and  uninteresting. 

46  M.  Ingelheim,  station  for  the  two  villages  of  NUder-Ingel- 
heim  (Hirsch)  and  Ober^Ingelheim  (Lamm) ,  each  2/3  M.  distant. 
Nleder-Ingelheim  was  once  the  site  of  a  celebrated  palace 
of  Charlemagne,  described  by  ancient  writers  as  an  edifice  of 
great  magnificence  ('domus  alta  centum  perflxa  columnls'),  to 
adorn  which  mosaics,  sculptures,  and  other  works  of  art  were 
sent  from  Ravenna  by  Pope  Hadrian  I.  between  768  and  784.  It 
was  burned  down  in  1270,  but  was  restored  by  Charles  IV,  in  1854. 


to  Mayence.  H£ID£8H£IM.  29.  BouU.     131 

Few  relioB  of  the  building  aie  now  extant  (lyenite  eolumiu  of  the 
foantain  at  the  castle  of  Heidelberg,  see  p.  Wf\  The  Proteatant 
8t,  Bemiffiutkitche  wal  onee  the  ehapel  of  the  palace,  but  ai  it  has 
been  repeatedly  restoied  nothing  of  the  original  is  now  left  except 
some  parts  of  the  N.  transept.  The  handsome  Protestant  Church 
of  Ober-Ingelheim ,  leoently  restored,  dates  firom  the  13th  century. 
It  was  at  Ingelhelm,  on  3(>th  Dee.  1105,  that  the  convocation  of 
the  bishops  of  Mayence,  Cologne,  and  Worms  dethroned  Emp. 
Henry  lY.,  an  evOnt  which  is  quaintly  described  by  the  old 
German  historian  Sebastian  MUnster  (1550).  The  red  wine  of 
Ingelheun  is  much  esteemed.  —  The  *  Waldeck  (590  ft.  above  the 
Rhine) ,  about^  M.  beyond  Ober-Ingelheim ,  with  a  pavilion  and 
grounds,  affords  a  charming  view  of  the  Rheingau. 

49 Vs  ^*  -QistdesAewi,  where  good  wine  is  produced.  At  (53  M.) 
Budenheim  and  (55^2  ^0  Mombaeh  (as  also  at  Weisenau,  p.  255) 
there  are  numerous  quarries  of  BhelMimestone,  consisting  of 
myriads  of  lUorirkeUi^  which  is  exported  to  the  Lower  Rhine  and 
Holland,  and  supplies  numerous  limekilns  on  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  Leniaher^  (p.  !260)  may  be  ascended  from  Budenheim 
in  y^hi, 

59  M.  Xaje&ct,  see  R.  2% 

20.   FFom  Coblenz  to  Wiesbaden.   Schlangenbad  and 
Schwalbach. 

Railway  on  the  Bight  Bank. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  102,  122. 

56V2  M.  Railway  to  Niederlahnstein  (3  M.)  in  10  mln.  (fares  90,  40, 
90  pf.))  thence  to  WUibadm  in  2V2-S  bra.  (fares  7  m.  60,  5  m.,  3  m.  20  pf.). 
Betom-ticketa,  see  p.  68.  —  Views  to  the  right. 

Travellers  bound  for  Castel  or  Frankfort  (E.  29a)  need  not  go  via 
Wiesbaden,  as  there  is  a  direct  line  from  stat.  Curve  (p.  224)  to  stat. 
Motbach  (see  below,  Map,  p.  123). 

Journey  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz,  see  R.  10;  from  Deutz  to 
£Sftren6rett«tem,  see  R.  11.  Description  of  Coblenz,  and  El^renbreit- 
stein,  see  R.  16. 

Passengers  who  start  from  Coblenz  cross  the  handsome  new  rail- 
way-bridge (p.  98)  at  the  island  of  Oberwerth.  The  line  from 
Ehrenbreltstein  passes  the  old  railway-bridge  (which  is  now  used 
only  for  local  trains  between  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein),  and 
runs  at  the  back  oi  Pfaffewiorf  (j^,  101),  commanding  a  fine  view  the 
whole  way.  Opposite  the  island  of  Oberwerth  it  unites  with  the 
Coblenz  line  (see  above).  —  2^2  M.  Horehheim  (p.  101). 

4  M.  Niederlahnstein  (p.  101) ,  the  junction  of  the  Coblenz- 
Oologne  and  Moselle  lines )  the  Ehrenbreitstein  and  Deutz  line 
(R.  11),  and  the  Lahn  railway  (R.  27). 

The  line  crosses  the  Ldbn.  View  of  Capellen  and  Stolzenfels 
to4he  right,  and  of  the  Lahnthal  and  Lahneck  to  the  left. 

9* 


132  Route  so.  HATTBNHEIM. 

41/2  M.  Ob«rlalixiftei]i  (steamb.  stat.).  Opposite  lies  the  yillage 
of  Rkens,  with  the  Kdnigsstuhl  (p.  104). 

7  M.  Branbaeb,  with  the  Markshurg  (p.  104).  11  M.  Oaterspay 
(p.  105).  Passing  the  small  village  of  FUxen^  we  now  obtain  a  view 
of  Boppard,  beautifully  situated  on  the  opposite  bank.  15  M.  Camp 
(steamb.  stat.,  p.  107^,  a  little  above  which  are  the  pilgrimage- 
ohureh  and  convent  of  Bomhofen  at  the  foot  of  the  ^Brothers'j  as 
the  ruined  castles  of  Sterrehberg  and  LUbenatein  are  usually  called 
(p.  107).  171/2  M.  KesUrt  (p.  108),  beyond  which  the  train  passes 
the  village  of  Welmieh,  with  the  ^Motue'  castle  rising  above  it.  Far- 
ther on  are  the  extensive  rains  of  Rheinfels  on  the  opposite  bank. 

22  M.  8t.  Ctoanhsnien  (steamb.  stat.),  with  t^e  rained  castle 
of  the  ^Cat'  (p.  110).  Opposite  lies  the  picturesque  little  town  of 
St.  Gear.  The  train  now  passes  through  a  tunnel  under  the  Lurlei, 
and  through  another  under  the  RoaaaUin,  On  the  opposite  bank  lies 
Oberwesel,  a  picturesque  little  town,  commanded  by  the  Schonburg. 

29  M.  Gaub  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  113),  above  which  rises  the  ruin 
of  Outenftla,  In  the  middle  of  the  Rhine  is  the  curious  old  chftteau 
of  the  Pf€dz,  Higher  up  the  river,  on  the  opposite  bank,  lies  the 
venerable  town  of  Bacharach,  overshadowed  by  the  ruin  of  Stahleck; 
then  the  ruin  of  Fiirstenberg  and  the  village  of  Rheindiebach.  The 
train  intersects  the  village  of  Lorehhausen. 

321/2  M.  Lorch  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  116).  On  the  opposite  bank, 
farther  up,  is  Niederheimbach,  commanded  by  the  round  tower  of 
the  Heimburg ;  then  the  slender  tower  of  the  Sooneck,  the  ruin  of 
Falkenburg,  the  Clemenscapelle,  and  the  picturesque  modernised 
castle  of  Rhelnstein. 

37  M.  Assmannshansen  (steamb.  stat.,  see  p.  118)  is  the  usual 
starting-point  for  an  excursion  to  the  NUderwald  (p.  127).  Oppo- 
site ,  a  little  higher  up,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Nahe,  immediately 
above  which  lies  Bingen.  The  train  passes  below  the  ruin  of  Ehren" 
felsj  opposite  which  lies  the  island  with  the  Mouse  Tower,  where  the 
stream  is  very  rapid. 

40  M.  S&desheim  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  121).  On  the  left  rises  the 
Bromserburg.  Ferry  to  Bingerbruck  (junction  for  Kreuznach),  situat- 
ed immediately  below  Bingen  on  the  opposite  bank,  20  or  10  pf .  — 
Opposite  rises  the  Rochusberg,  with  its  chapel  (p.  120). 

42V2M.  Oeisenheim  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  123).  On  the  hill  to  the 
left  are  the  village  and  monastery  of  Eibingen.  —  45  M.  Oestrioh- 
Winkel  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  124) ;  the  station  is  at  MitUlheimj  between 
these  two  places.  To  the  left  is  Schloss  Vollraths.  From  Winkel  to 
Johannlsberg  an  easy  ascent  of  35  minutes. 

471/2  M.  Hattenlieim.  On  the  hiU  to  the  left  is  Hallgarten ,  a 
famous  wine-producing  place,  immediately  below  which  are  the  still 
more  famous  Steinberg,  the  Abbey  of  Eberbach,  and  the  Eichberg 
Lunatic  Asylum.  To  the  right  is  Schloss  Reichartshausen,  and  the 
green  islands  in  the  Rhine.  —  49  M.  Erbach  (p.  125). 


SCHLANGENBAD.  SO.  Route,     133 

50  M.  mtrille  (stesmb.  stat.,  p.  125);  route  to  Sehlangenbad 
and  SchwcUbach,  see  below.  In  the  background  rises  the  handsome 
tower  of  the  Scharfenstein  (p.  126).  The  train  trayerses  vineyards, 
and  passes  a  number  of  country-houses.  On  the  hill  to  the  left 
rises  the  church-tower  of  Rauenthal  (p.  126).  52  M.  Niederwalluf 
(steamb.  stat.,  p.  126);  54^/2  M.  Schieratein  (p.  126),  where  the 
train  begins  to  quit  the  river. 

56  M.  Biebrieh-Mosbach  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  126).  The  N.  en- 
trance to  the  park  is  near  the  railway-station.  On  the  opposite  bank 
rise  the  towers  of  Mayence.  Beyond  Curve  (p.  224)  the  train  turns 
inland  to  the  left,  running  parallel  for  some  distance  with  theTauuus 
line,  and  soon  reaches  — 

58 V2  M.  Wiesbaden,  see  p.  135. 


ScHLANOBNBAD  and  ScHWALBACH  are  most  conveniently  visited 
from  EltviUe,  Wiesbaden,  or  Dietz  (p.  205). 

From  Eltvillb  to  Schlangenhad  5  M. ,  to  Schteatbach  about  iVx  M. 
farther  (in  summer  omnibus  4  times  daily  in  connection  with  the  trains; 
diligence  twice  daily  in  snmmer  to  Schlangenbad  in  IV*  br.,  fare  80  pf., 
and  to  Schwalbach  in  2V4  hrs.,  fare  1  m.  50  pf.).  Carriage  from  Eltville  to 
Schlangenbad  with  one  horse  5-7  m.,  with  two  horses  8-9  m.,  to  Schwalbach 
9V«  m.  or  15  m.  5  return-fare,  with  3  hrs.  stay,  one-half  more. 

From  Wiesbaden  to  Schwalbach,  12  M.,  diligence  twice  daily  in  2V4  hrs., 
fare  1  m.  90  pf.  —  From  Zoi.lhaus  to  Sehwalbachy  14  M.,  diligence  twice 
daily  during  the  fewon,  at  other  times  once  daily,  in  3  hrs.  (comp. 
p.  206). 

Eltville,  see  p.  125.  The  road  from  Eltville  traverses  the  plain 
of  the  Sulkbaeh,  and  gradually  ascends,  skirting  the  foot  of  the 
Rauenthal  vineyards,  to  (1^/4 M.)  Neudorjf  (Kjone),  where  it  unites 
with  the  road  from  Niederwalluf  and  Schierstein.  It  next  passes  the 
suppressed  monastery  of  Tiefenthal  (now  a  mill)  and  the  handsome 
new  Villa  Grainger,  and  leads  through  an  attractive,  shaded  valley, 
enlivened  by  numerous  mills,  to  (33/4  M.)  Schlangenbad. 

Pedestrians  should  select  the  somewhat  longer  route  by  Rauenthal. 
The  high-road  is  quitted  1  M.  from  Eltville,  and  the  vineyards  ascended 
by  a  footpath  to  the  left;  on  reaching  the  summit  of  the  plateau,  turn 
again  slightly  to  the  left;  (25  min.)  the  ''Buhenhtbuter  Hohe  (846  fk.),  com- 
manding a  magnificent  view  of  the  entire  Rheingau  from  Hayence  as  far  as 
below  Johannisberg ;  in  the  foreground  lies  the  attractive  town  of  Eltville. 
About  >/«  H.  farther  K. ,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  is  situated  Baa«nthal 
(Nassauer  Eof^  with  garden;  Rheingauer  ffo/)j  a  village  with  an  ancient 
church ,  and  celebrated  for  its  wine.  The  carriage-road  to  it  from  Jfeu- 
dorf  (see  above)  ascends  to  the  left  at  a  direction-post  V^  M.  beyond  the 
village ,  leading  to  Rauenthal  in  1/4  br.  On  the  slope  of  the  hill  on  the 
N.  side  of  Rauenthal  a  shady  promenade  leads  to  Schlangenbad  in  */4  hr. 
Those  who  prefer  the  high-road  descend  to  the  right  by  a  way-post  about 
Vi  M.  from  the  village.    To  the  road  "A  M.,  to  Schlangenbad  IV2  M.  more. 

Seblangenbad.  —  Setels.  ^^asbavk^  Hof,  R.  from  IVs,  I>-  3>  B.  1  m. ; 
HdTBi.  Viotoria;  HdTSL  Planz;  Gerhania;  Rubsisohkb  Kaibbb,  D.  2  M. ; 
Rhsinqaukr  Hof,  unpretending;  all  these  have  gardens.  There  are  also 
the  Ropal  Bath  Houses  (R.  i-lO  m.,  board  5  m.),  and  numerous  lodging- 
houses  with  ^pension'. 

Batht  I1/2  m. ;  those  at  the  new  bath-house  better,  2  m.  —  A  Tax  of 
12  m.  for  the  season  is  exacted  from  a  single  patient,  with  9  m.  for  each 
additional  member  of  a  party. 


134    lUmteSa.  8CSWALBACH. 

Oarriafeett  two-hone  6  m.,  one-hoMe  3^^  m.  per  hour,  after  11  p.m. 
7  and  5  in»  —  Donkey,  per  hour,  1  m.  20  pf. 

Schlangenbad  (826  ft.)  U  charmingly  situated  in  a  ricUy-wooded 
valley ,  refreshed  by  a  constant ,  invigorating  current  of  air.  The 
water  (84-90^  Fahr.),  which  is  only  used  externally ,  and  is  clear 
and  free  from  odour,  and  smooth  and  oily  to  the  touch,  is  most  effi- 
cacious in  skin  complaints,  convulsive  affections,  debility,  and  sim- 
ilar  maladies ;  the  baths  are  principally  visited  by  ladies.  The  old 
bath-house,  or  CurhauSf  was  erected  in  1694  by  the  Landgrave  Carl 
of  Hessen-Gassel ,  then  lord  of  the  soil ;  the  spacious  new  Bath 
House  was  completed  in  1868.  The  terrace  is  the  chief  rendezvous 
of  visitors.  A  covered  iron  promenade  connects  the  bath-house, 
thermal  spring,  and  Gursaal.  The  environs  afford  a  great  variety  of 
shady  walks  (e.g.  Wilhelmsfelsenj  the  Oraue  Stein j  etc.). 

The  reader  will  find  an  interesting  description  of  this  locality 
in  Sir  Francis  Head's  'Bubbles  from  the  Brunnens  of  Nassau.^ 

Fbom  Schlangenbad  to  Wibsbadsn  (rVg  M.  \  two-horse  carr.  there 
and  back  15-18  m.).  The  carriage-road  hy  (l«/4  M.)  Geor|penbom  (1187  ft.) 
is  the  best  route  for  pedestrians.  From  the  highest  point  there  is  a 
magnificent  view,  extending  from  Frankfort  as  far  as  the  confluence  of 
the  Main  and  Rhine,  and  from  Worms  to  Bingen,  with  the  Donnersberg  in 
the  background.  To  the  ChausseeTiaus  (p.  141)  2V4M.,  thence  vi^.  Clarenthal 
(p.  141)  to  (SVs  M.)  Wiesbaden  by  the  old  Wiesbaden  and  8chwalbach  road. 

The  high-road  from  Schlangenbad  by  Wambach  to  Schwalbach 
(4Y2  M.)  rises  considerably  for  2^2  M. ,  commanding  a  fine  view 
from  the  culminating  point,  and  then  descends  to  (2  M.)  Schwal- 
bach. Pedestrians  may  descend  by  a  shady  footpath,  which  Is  ih- 
dicated  by  sign-posts. 

Sohwalbaoh.  —  Hotels.  *Alleesaal,  D.  4  m. ;  *Herzoo  von  I^assad, 
D.  3  m.-,  *Qdbllknhof,  D.  8V2,  R.  from  2  m.,  B.  Im.,  *pens.'  7-10  m.*, 
*'HdTEL  HfiTROPOLB,  wlth  large  d^pendance ,  B.  3,  B.  11/4*  D.  4,  ^pens.' 
6'/2  m. ;  TrvoLi,  opposite  the  bath-house,  'pens.""  7  m.;  Prinob  of  Walks; 
Berliner  Hof,  *pens\  from  5m. 5  Taunus  Hotel,  Russisghes  Hof, 
*Waoneb,  D.  at  the  last  three  2  m.  —  Some  of  the  Lodging- Houge*  are 
comfortably  fitted  up.    In  July  it  is  advisable  to  secure  rooms  in  advance. 

Bestaaranti.  *Cur8aal.  D.  8  m. ;  «i>tl<«,  at  the  Berliner  Hof;  *  Garten- 
laube^  moderate ;  Weidenho/^  Marktplate,  D.  U/i  m. ;  Liffoenburg. 

Batki  in  the  K&nigiiehes  Badhenu  (6  a.m.  till  IV2  p.m.,  1  m.  80  pf.  or 
2  m.).    At  the  Stadt  CoblenZy  BnglUcher  Hofy  Linde^  Zum  Lindenbrunnen,  etc., 

I  m.  20  to  1  m.  50  pf.  per  bath.  Bath  Tax  10  m.  for  1  person.  —  MuHc  in 
the  morning  and  afternoon ,  at  the  Stahlbrunnen  and  Weinbnmnen  alter- 
nately. —  Fee  to  the  girl  at  the  wella  discretionary. 

Carriages.  One-horse  3V«,  two-horse  6  m.  per  hour,  after  11  p.m.  2  m. 
more ;  to  Bltville  9Vs  and  15  m. ;  to  Wiesbaden  10  and  15  m.  —  Donkeyi 
IV2  m.  per  hour;  for  excuraions  there  is  a  fixed  tariff. 

Telegraph  Office  at  the  post-office. 

English  Ohurch  (CkrUt  Church)}  service  during  the  season  at  8  and 

II  a.m.  and  at  6  p.m. 

Schwedbaeh  (951  ft.),  officially  called  Langenschwalbach,  12  M. 
to  the  N.W.  of  Wiesbaden,  91/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Eltville,  and  14  M. 
to  the  S.  of  Zollhaus  (p.  206),  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  green 
valley.  It  was  known  as  early  as  the  year  300,  and  was  a  fashion- 
able watering-place  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries,  but  is  now 
regarded  more  as  a  health-resort  and  medicinal  spa.     The  water, 


1 34    Bdute  20, 


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WIESBADEN.  21.  R(Me.     185 

strongly  impregnated  with  iron  and  carbonic  acid,  is  adapted  for 
internal  and  external  use,  and  is  especially  efficacious  in  nervous 
and  female  complaints.  The  annual  number  of  visitors  is  about  5000. 

The  two  principal  springs,  the  Stahlbrunntn ,  in  one  of  the 
vaUeys,  and  the  Wcifibrunnen  in  the  other,  are  connected  by  prome- 
nades. The  other  springs  are  used  only  for  bathing.  A  handsome 
Cursaal,  with  a  restaurant,  a  reading-room,  and  other  conveniences, 
was  opened  in  1879. 

Walk*  in  the  pleasure-grounds  and  adjacent  woods.  Also  to  the 
(iOmin. ;  donkey  60  pf.)  PauHnenberg;  tbe  Platte  (1329  ft.),  the  summit 
of  whidi,  with  a  Ane  view,  may  be  reached  in  16-20  min.  more;  and  the 
Br^unckeabergy  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  town  and  the  valley  of 
the  Aar.  —  LoNasK  Excubsiomb  may  be  taken  to  the  ruins  of  A4olphseeh 
(Kling),  2Vt  M.  down  the  valley  of  the  Aar,  on  the  road  to  Diet^  and  to 
Hohtnttein  (Inn  at  the  ruins),  3  M .  farther  on.  A  good  road  leads  from 
Schwalbach  down  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Wisper  to  OeroUtein 
and  (20  M.)  Lorch  (p.  11^. 

Fbox  Schwalbach  to  Wissbaden  (diligence  and  omnibus  twice  daily 
in  2  hrs.)  there  ajre  two  roada.  The  new  road,  now  almost  exclusively 
used,  ascends  by  the  course  of  the  Aar  to  BUidenttadt  and  JSahn,  then 
quits  the  valley,  and  traverses  wooded  heights  towards  the  S.E. 

21.    Wiesbmdeii. 

Arrival.  The  stations  of  the  Bight  Rhenish  Railway  (R.  20),  Taunus 
Railway  (R.  29a),  and  Hessische  Ludwigsbahn  (to  Idstein,  p.  229)  are  all 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  town  (Plan  K.  8).  Ckib  from  the  stations  into  the 
town,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  60  pf.,  3-4  pers.  80 pf.;  two-horse,  90  or  1  m. 
10  pf. )  each  box  20  pf.,  small  articles  free.  The  SteamboaU  stop  at  Bieb- 
rich  (see  p.  126).    Omnibut,  see  p.  136. 

Hotels.  ^Nassauxb  Hop  (PI.  b}  E,  5),  in  the  Theater-Platz ,  with  a 
handsome  d^pendance,  called  the  ViUa  JfassaUf  Sonnenberger-Str.  1  (PI. 
F.  5)^  *yiEK  Jahbbbzbitbn  &  "HoTSL  Zais  (PI.  a^  E,  5),  also  in  the 
Theater-PlatK ^  *Ro8B^(P1.  di  E,  6),  Kxanz-Platz  7-9,  with  a  large  garden; 
•Pabk  Hotbl,  Wilh,elm-Str.  30  5  all  these  fashionable  and  expensive.  *Enq- 
LiSGHBB  Hop  (PI.  k}  E,  5),  Kranz-Platz  11 ;  'Adlkb  (PL  o;  D,  5),  Lang- 
gasse  32,  near  the  Eochbrunnen;  *Bab  (PL  1^  E,  5),  Langgasse  41,  with 
'pension' ;  ^Qband  Hotbl,  Schutzenhof-Str.  3  and  4,  opposite  tbe  old  post- 
offlee  (PL  16;  O,  6),  with  ^pension';  "^Hotel  Block,  near  the  Trinkhalle 
(PL  22;  E,  5);  *IJoTEL  Bellevue,  Wilhelm-Str.  26^  *Bhein-H6tel  ,  to 
the  left  on  leaving  the  station,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rheinbahn-Str.  (PL 
E,  8),  R.  2Vj-3  m.,  L.  60,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D.  3  m.;  *Hotel  du  Nobd, 
Wilhelm-Str.  6  (PI,  E,  6),  R.,  L.,  and  A.  from  21/2  m.;  all  first-class 
and  with  baths.  —  l^eeond  Class :  *Hot.  Alleksaal,  Taunus-Str.  3,  oppo- 
site the  Trinkhalle  (PL  22),  D.  2  H.;  Hotel  on  the  Nebobebg,  see 
p.  141.  For  one  night:  *Taunus  HotEL  (PL  e;  E,  7),  Rhein-Str.  3,  first 
class,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  2  m.,  D.  3  m.,  B.  1  m,,  good  wine.  —  Second 
class:  *GBiiNEB  Wald  (PL  h;  E,  6),  Markt-Str.  10,  R.  from  2  m.,  B.  1  m., 
A.  50pf.;  *HdTEL  Weins,  Bahnhof-Str.  ^  (PL  E,  7),  R.,  L.,  A  A.  from  V/t  m., 
D.  2m.t  Spbhhbb,  Wilhelm-Str.  28,  B.  A  A.  from  IVsm.,  with  baths; 
HtoBL  VOGBX.,  Rhein-Str.  U  (PL  D,  E,  7) ;  these  three  near  the  stations  -, 
^Gbntbal  Hotel,  De  Laspde-Str.  3 ;  *Nonnenhop,  Kirchgasse  41  (PL  D,  7), 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  2-2V2  m.,  D.  1  m.  70  pf.,  B.  80  pf.,  unpretending,  good  cuisine; 
EiNHOBN,  unpretending.  —  HdxELS  Gabmis:  Berliner  Ho/^  H6tel  Batch, 
both  in  the  Wilhelm-^tr.,  comfortable  but  expensive.  —  Pensions.  Qui- 
Htana  (Dr.  Roser),  Park-Str.  3,  4-8  m.,  also  R.  without  pension  ^  Monrepot 
(Frau  Dr.  Pfeiflfer),  Frankfurter- Str.  6,  4V2-8  m. ;  Frau  Hautsmann,  Taunus- 
Str.  9;  JP.  C.  Sehweieker.  Villa  Panorama,  Park-Str.,  4-6  m.;  Internationale, 
Mainzer-Str.  8;    Villa    Beatrice    (Frau    Ahlers),    Garten-Str.  12;    Germania 


136    BouUSl» 


WIESBADBN. 


Cab8. 


(Doatrelepont),  Soanenberg«r-8tr. ;  FUeriuSt  Leb«rl>erg  1.  Moat  of  the  lK>tela 
also  give  ^pension',  at  3-8  m.  per  day. 

Bafh  HouMi.  Europ&iicher  Ho/  (PI.  i;  E,  5),  Kochbrunnen-Platz  5; 
JCaiierbud,  Wilhelm-Str.  42  (PI.  £,  7>^  Eihnerbad  (PI.  m;  E,  5),  KodL^ 
brunnen-Platz  3\  Eng»l  (PI.  n^  S,  5),  Rranx-Plais  6}  Weiuer  Schttan  (PI.  o  ; 
E,  6),  Kochbrunnen-Platz  1;  Krone  (Pi.  p;  E,  5),  Langgasse  26;  Bchwarter 
Boel^  Kranz-PlatK  12  (PL  E,  5) ,  well  apoken  of;  Kdlniseher  Hof^  Kleine 
Bavg-8tr.  6;  Bpitgel  (PI.  qt  E,  0),  Kraaz- Plats  10;  Stwn  (PL  r;  E,  5), 
Webergafse  8;  Wtuu%  £ow,  BMiniUin^  etc    Charges  vary  with  the  aeaaon. 

Seatanranta.  At  the  *CurMal,  not  expensive;  ^ChrUtmannj  Untere 
Webergasse;  ^Dahlheim,  Taunus  -  Straase  15;  *Jfonnenho/,  p.  135.  Table 
d'hdte  at  all  daring  the  season.  Zintttlingy  Kirch-Str.  19.  —  Beer.  Bier- 
Salon  ,  in  the  Cursaal ;  *Konntnhof^  p.  135.  ^'Central  Boiel  (p.  135) ; 
DeuUeher  Keller^  in  the  Rheln-Hdtel  <p.  185) ;  *Engel^  Langgasse  16,  with 
garden,  D.  IV2  m.,  also  wine,  moderate;  ^ToHnue  Hotel  (p.  135),  with 
garden;  Pothe,  Langgasse  11;  Vogel^  Bhein-Str.  11.  —  *Beer  Garden  (Fel- 
senkeller)  on  the  Bierstadt  Road ,  to  the  E.  of  the  town ,  with  a  view ; 
near  it  the  BierstUdter  Warte,  with  a  still  more  extensire  view.  *Beau 
Site  at  the  terminas  of  the  tramway  in  the  Nerothal,  see  p.  141 ;  ^'Behiese* 
halle^  Unter  den  Eieheny  V2  ^-  farther  on,  near  the  new  cemetery.  In 
winter  the  Orand  Hdtel  opens  a  'biersalon*  which  is  mnch  frequented.  — 
OonfeotioDera.  "Rdder^  Webergasse  12;  Jaeger^  Orosse  Burg^Str.  10;  Weniy 
Spiegelgasse  4 ;  *  Brenner  &  Blumy  Wilhelm-Str.  42. 

Ouraaal  (PL  11).  ^Bhinione  dansantes^  on  Saturdays,  during  the  season^ 
tickets  issued  by  the  bath  -  authorities.  Concerts  on  Fridays,  performers 
of  the  highest  class,  adm.  2-5  m. 

Vlaitors'  Tax.  (a)  For.  a  W9t».\  i  P9V8on  20  ta.,  for  a  family  of  2  per- 
sons 30  m.,  for  each  additional  pers.  3  m.  —  (b)  For  six  weeks:  1  person 
10  m.,  for  a  family  of  2  pers.  lo,  each  pern,  additional  3  m.,  children  and 
servants  included.  Payment  of  this  tax  entitles  the  visitor  to  the  use  of 
the  various  public  sanitary  establishments  (Kocbbrunnen,  Trinkhalle,  etc.), 
and  of  the  well-supplied  Reading  Room  (p.  138),  and  to  attend  the  ordinary 
CoNCBBTs  (in  the  Curgarten,  daily  in  summer,  6.30  to  8  a.m.  and  4  to 
5.45  p.m. ;  and  also  8-10  p.m.),  Wednesday  balls,  etc.  Passing  travellers 
may  procure  day-tickets,  admitting  to  the  Gursaai,  for  50  pf.  —  The  Cur- 
▼erein  (office  in  the  Cursaal) ,  which  puTalishes  the  ^Badeblatt'  dally  in 
summer,  will  supply  visitors  with  any  information  they  may  desire. 

Theatre  (PL  21;  E,5),  one  of  the  best  on  the  Rhine,  managed  by  the 

general  direction   of    theatrical   performances    at  Berlin,    daily,  except 

Mondays  and  Fridays,  beginning  at  6.30  l^.m.  (closed  in  June  or  July). 

Gab-Tariff  (double  fkres  from  11  p.  m.  to  6  or  7  a.  m.).       ^      -     - 

Drive  in  the  town  or  to  any  of  the  villas  as  far  as 
the  Dietenmiihle 

1-2  persons 

34  persons . 

By  time:  per  hour  within  the  town,  1-4  pers.  .  .  . 
-  beyond  -  -  -  -  .  .  .  . 
(In  each  case  the  hirer 
may  keep  the  cab  for 
Vs  hr.  and  then  re- 
'turn  at  half  these 
fares;  each  additional 
1/4  hr.  80-50  pf.) 

To  the  Platte  and  hack,  with  stay  of  IV2  hr.  .   .   . 

To  Schwalbach  and  back  (whole  day) 

To  Schwalbach,  and  back  by  Sehlangenbad    .... 

From  the  railway-stations  to  the  town,  see  p.  135. 

Hotel-carriages  one-fourth  to  one-third  more. 

Tramways.  From  tbe  stations  to  the  Artillery  Barracks,  and  in  the 
other  direction  through  the  Wilhelm-Str.,  Taunus-Str.,  and  the  17erothal 
to  Beau  Site.    Fare  20^  pf. 

Omnibus  at  8  a.m.  from  Langgasse  20  to  the  steamboat-pier  at  Biebrich, 
'"^^  with  luggage  90  pf. 


Beau  Site 

Russian  Chapel  or  Sonnenberg 

Neroberg  or  Glarenthal 

Biebnch 


One-h. 
m.  pf. 

Two-h. 
m.  pf. 

-60 
-80 
2- 
280 

—  90 
1  10 
3- 

4  — 

1  — 
170 
240 
280 

1  40 
2- 
3- 
380 

690 
15- 
16- 

9  — 
18  50 
20- 

History,  WIESBADEN.  21,  BouU,     137 

Baths  of  all  kinds,  with  Bwimming  bMiOf  at  the  Nerothal  Hydropathic 
Sstablithment  (p.  141  ^  tramway)^  Turkish  Baths  in  the  JHeienmUhU  (p.  140). 

Ttat  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  16^  E,7),  Rhein-Str.  9.  Branch-of flees 
at  SohiitzeBhof-Sty.  (PI.  16^  D,6)  aad  in  the  Gunaal,  in  the  centre  of  the 
new  Colonnade.  —  RmltMif  Tick^ti  may  he  procured  at  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal hotels.' 

English  Ohnrch  (Bt.  Auffustine's)  in  the  Wilhelm-Strasse ;  services  at 
11  a.m.  and  8.90 p.m.  (summer  7p.m.).    Chaplain,  Mev,  L,  F.  WUUcmu^  3.A. 

WiMboden  (377  ft.  above  the  86a-level,  92  ft.  above  the  Rhine), 
with  55,457  inbab.,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Nassau, 
and  now  tbe  chief  town  of  tbe  Prussian  district  of  Wiesbaden,  lies 
on  tbe  S.W.  spurs  of  the  Taunus  Mts.,  in  a  basin  watered  by  the 
Sahbaehj  and  Is  surxmnded  by  produotiye  orchards  and  vineyards. 
It  is  a  very  pleasant,  and  for  the  most  part  well-built  town.  A 
number  of  handsome  streets  have  sprung  up  within  the  last  fifty 
years  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cursaal  and  the  railway-stations, 
while  the  public  grounds  together  with  the  gardens  of  the  'Land- 
hauser* ,  or  villas  where  apartments  are  let ,  greatly  enhance  the 
attractions  of  the  place.  Wiesbaden  is  annually  visited  by  upwards 
of  60,000  patients  and  travellers.  The  excellence  of  its  sanitary 
establishments ,  coupled  wltii  the  healthiness  of  the  climate,  ren- 
der it  a  favourite  resort  of  strangers,  even  in  winter ,  when  living 
is  moreover  lose  ei^pensive  than  in  summer.  Many  of  the  neigh- 
bouring villas  are  private  residences. 

Wiesbadeu  is  one  of  the  oldest  watering-places  in  Germany.  ^Bunt  ti 
Maitiaei  in  Osnuania  /onUs  etUidi  tratu  Bhenum,  worum  hatiftiu  triduo  /er- 
veC  is  Pliny's  account  of  Wiesbaden  (HUt.  Nat.  xxxi.  2).  On  the 
ffeidenberff ,  which  rises  to  the  "S.  of  the  town,  traces  of  a  Roman  fortress 
were  discovered  in  1838.  which  according  to  the  inscriptions  was  garrison* 
ed  hy  the  14th  and  22nd  Legions.  Tbe  Heidenmauer  (heathens'  wall),  660 
ft.  long ,  10  ft.  high,  9  ft.  thick ,  was  perhaps  a  connecting  line  between 
the  fort  and  the  town.  Varions  objecte  found  here  are  exhibited  in  the 
Museum  (p.  139). 

From  the  Railway  Stations  (PI.  £,  8)  the  traveller  enters 
the  WUkdm-Si/riuat  (PI.  E,  7,  6),  planted  with  trees,  and  about 
1/2  M.  in  length,  bounding  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  and  adjoined  by 
the  Anlagen,  or  public  pleasure-grounds,  in  which  Is  situated  the 
English  Church  fPl.  7).  Among  the  buildings  in  the  Wilhelm-Str. 
are  the  Museum  (p.  189)  and  the  new  Kaiserbad. 

At  the  end  of  the  avenue,  to  the  left,  lies  the  Thbatba-Platz, 
adorned  with  flower-beds  and  a  Butt  of  Schiller  (Pl.  19 ;  E,  5),  a 
copy  of  Dannecker's.  Three  sides  of  this  Platz  are  occupied  by  the 
Vier  Jahreweiten  Hotel,  the  Hotel  Zaia^  the  Ncuaauer  Hof,  and  the 
Theatre  (PI.  21).  On  the  right  is  the  square  in  front  of  the  Cur- 
saal ,  embellished  with  flower-beds  and  two  handsome  fountains, 
which  are  illuminated  at  night,  and  flanked  by  spacious  Doric 
Colonnade*  (PI.  3;  F,  5),  restored  since  a  Are  in  1877,  which 
serve  as  a  bazaar.  MetkeVs  Picture  Qallery  is  worthy  of  a  visit  (adm. 
daily  9-4,  50  pf.;  family  season-ticket  15  mX 

The«Cnwaal(Pl.  11,  F,5;  adm.,  seep.  136),  completed  in  1810 
from  designs  by  Zais^  and  dedicated  'Fontibus  Mattiacis',  is  the 


138    Route  21.  WIESBADSN.         Protestant  Ohu^eW 

chief  resort  of  visitors.  The  facade  consists  of  an  Ionic  hexa- 
style  portico,  while  at  the  sides  are  long  colonnades  supported  by 
24  Doric  colamns.  The  principal  kail,  restored  with  great  taste  in 
1863,  is  132  ft.  long,  60  ft.  wide,  and  48  ft.  high.  The  orchestra 
galleries  are  supported  hy  handsome  Corinthian  columns  of  the  red 
and  grey  marble  of  the  country.  The  other  saloons  are  all  handsomely 
fitted  up.  On  the  N.  side  is  the  restaurant ,  on  the  S.  side  the 
concert  and  ball-rooms  and  the  well-supplied  reading-rooms. 

The  *Park  at  the  back  of  the  Oursaal,  with  which  it  communi- 
cates by  an  iron  arcade,  is  the  favourite  after-dinner  lounge  of  visi- 
tors to  the  baths,  as  well  as  of  numerous  excu>aionists  from  Mayence 
and  the  neighbourhood,  who,  especially  on  Sunday  afternoons, 
flock  to  these  shady  grounds  to  sip  their  coffee  and  enjoy  the  music. 
A  fountain  with  a  jet  100  ft.  in  height  plays  in  the  great  pond 
every  afternoon. 

On  the  AcUdphaberg,  to  the  N.,  are  situated  the  Palais  Pauline 
(PI.  14;  F,5),  a  building  in  the  Moorish  style,  erected  in  1842, 
and  a  number  of  pretty  villas  surrounded  by  gardens. 

The  Kochbrwuieii  (PI.  10 ;  E,  6),  or  boiling  spring  (156°  Fahr.), 
the  most  important  of  the  thermal  springs  (of  which  chloride  o£ 
sodium  is  the  chief  ingredient),  is  connected  with  the  Gurgarten  by 
a  long  iron  TririkhalU  (PI.  22)  in  the  form  of  a  veranda.  The 
visitors  assemble  here  in  great  numbers  between  6  and  8  a.  m.  The 
external  use  of  the  waters  is  beneficial  in  cases  of  rheumatism, 
gout ,  neuralgia ,  and  other  nervous  diseases ,  their  action  resem- 
bling that  of  the  Wildbad  springs,  like  which  they  contain  very  little 
salt.  Internally  they  are  prescribed  for  chronic  dyspepsia^  excessive 
obesity,  etc.  In  addition  to  the  Kochbrunnen,  which,  however,  is 
almost  entirely  used  for  drinking,  there  are  no  fewer  than  28  bath- 
ing-springs. Most  of  the  more  important  bath-houses,  including 
the  Romerbad  (the  oldest  of  all),  Roae^  Schwan,  Europaiseher  Bof, 
Engliaeher  Hof,  and  Adler,  have  each  a  spring  of  their  own.  The 
marble  Hygieia  Group  (PI.  6 ;  E,  5)  in  the  Kranz-Platz  is  by  Hoff- 
mann of  Wiesbaden. 

The  Langgasse,  which  issues  from  the  Kranz-Platz,  and  the  first 
cross-street,  the  Webergasse,  are  the  main  streets  of  the  old  part 
of  the  town  and  contain  many  hotels  and  handsome  shops.  Keeping 
to  the  left  (S.),  we  reach  the  Markt-Platz  (Pi.  E,  4),  enclosed  by 
the  Protestant  Church,  the  Palace,  and  the  Wilhelms-Hospital. 

The  Gothic  *Proteitant  Church  (PI.  8;  E,6),  with  its  five 
lofty  towers,  built  of  polished  bricks  in  1852-60,  is  the  most  con- 
spicuous edifice  in  the  town.  The  choir  is  adorned  with  colossal 
marble  statues  of  Christ  and  the  four  Evangelists,  by  Hopfgarten, 
The  principal  tower,  nearly  300  ft.  high,  commands  a  fine  view. 
Bell  for  the  sacristan  on  the  right  of  the  main  entrance. 

The  royal  (formerly  ducal)  Falaee  (PI.  13 ;  E,  6),  at  the  corner 
of  the  Market  and  the  Markt-Str.,  was  built  by  Goerz  in  1837-40, 


AftM0um.  WIESBADEN.  21.  Route.     I3d 

and  tenovftted  in  1882.  Yisitors  are  admitted  dally  after  9  a.m.,  in 
the  absence  of  tlie  emperor.  The  staircase  is  adorned  with  eight 
sandstone  statues  hy  Sekwanthaler  ^  and  in  the  dining-room  are 
two  Spanish  dancers ,  over  life-size ,  by  the  same  scnlptor.  The 
reception  and  ball  rooms  are  embellished  with  frescoes  by  Posey  and 
some  of  the  other  rooms  contain  good  pictures  by  modefn  masters. 
Adjoining  it  is  the  *  Wilhelma-HeilanatalV,  or  military  hospital,  a 
building  in  the  Italian  style,  by  Hoffmann,  finished  in  1871. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  9;  D,  7),  also  built  by  Hoff- 
mann^ is  a  handsome  modem  structure  in  the  Romanesque  style, 
with  groined  yaulting.  Altar-piece  on  the  right.  Madonna  and 
Child,  by  Steinle;  left,  St.  Boniface,  by  Rethel.  At  the  high-altar 
are  fifteen  figures  of  Saints,  by  Hoffmann^  Vogely  and  Hopfgarten, 
—  In  the  Luisbn-Platz  (PI.  D,  7),  in  front  of  the  church,  an 
Obelisk  (PI.  23)  was  erected  in  1865  to  the  memory  of  the  Nas- 
sovian  soldidrs  who  fell  at  Waterloo. 

The  Mngenm  (PI.  12;  E,  6,  7),  Wilhelm-Str.  20,  occupying  a 
building  erected  by  Zais  in  1812  as  a  palace  for  the  crown-prince, 
eontaina  the  muni<»pal  picture-gallery,  collections  of  antiquities  and 
natural  history  specimens,  and  a  library. 

The  Fiotuxe  GkUJery  (opoB  11-1  and  2-4),  in  summer  daily,  exeept  festi- 
vals j  in  winter  on  Hon.,  Wed.,  Frid.,  and  Sun.),  on  the  eround-tloor  to 
the  right,  contains  some  good  modem  pictures  (Catalogue  So  pf.) :  Legsing^ 
Forest  scene;  /.  Beck€r^  ViHage  on  flre,  a  sketch  in  colours;  C.  TiHebel, 
Swiss  landscape;  A.  Aehenbach,  View  of  Porto  Venere  near  Speeia;  F.  Pi' 
loty^  Sir  Thomas  More  in  prison;  W.  JSohn,  Different  paths  of  life;  C. 
Triebely  Lake  of  Lucerne;  £.  Knaus,  Tavern  scene;  F.  Siddemann^  Jea- 
lousy; 0.  Aehenbach,  Coast  near  Ifaples;  Oehmieheny  Sad  news;  Sender- 
mann^  Our  heroes.  Also  several  Dutch  and  Italian  pictures  of  the  17th 
and  18th  cent.,  and  several  early  German  works.  —  The  last  rooms  also 
contain  the  Exhibition  of  the  Central  Rhenish  Kunstverein. 

The  Celle«tioB  of  Antiquitiea  (Hon.,  Wed.,  Frid.,  'AS)  is  on  the  ground- 
floor  to  the  left.  Vestibule.  Boman  stone  monuments.  —  Book  I.  Flint 
and  bronze  implements;  objects  found  in  the  caverns  in  the  Leer  near 
Steeten  on  the  Lahn,  some  of  the  bones  ornamented.  —  Rook  It.  Roman 
sandals,  found  at  Hayence.  Collection  of  glasses,  historically  arranged.  — 
Book  HI.  Mithras  monument,  found  at  Heddemheim ;  bronse  door,  found 
at  Mayence.  —  Booh  IV.  Models  of  Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Boman  build- 
ings. Bronze  pyramid  of  Jupiter  Dolichenus.  —  Room  V.  Franconian 
antiquities.  —  Room  VI.  Stone  monuments;  Jupiter,  from  Igstadt;  three 
portrait-statues  from  Kieder-Ingelheim.  —  Boom  VII.  Models  of  a  Boman 
villa  at  Harienfels  and  of  the  fort  of  Wiesbaden.  —  Boom  VIII.  Mediaeval 
curiosities,  including  a  gilded  and  carved  wooden  altar  of  the  13th  cent., 
from  the  abbey  of  Marienstadt. 

The  first  floor  contains  an  admirably-arranged  Natural  Histost  Col- 
lection, including  Geming's  celebrated  Collection  of  Insects  and  a  com* 
plete  series  of  the  minerals  of  Nassau  (adm.  on  application  at  Friedrich- 
Str.  1). 

The  LiBBABT  (daily,  except  Sat.  &  Sun.,  10-2),  in  the  upper  story,  con- 
tains valuable  old  M8S.,  including  3  interesting  parchment  codices  of  the 
12-13th  cent.  (Visions  of  St.  Hildegarde),  with  initials  and  miniatures. 

On  the  Michelsberg,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  rises  the 
Synagosru^  (PI.  20;  D,  6),  in  the  Moorish  style,  erected  by  Hoff- 
mann^ and  completed  in  1869.  It  is  covered  by  a  central  dome 
about  1^0  ft.  in  height,  and  four  smaller  domes  at  the  sides,  adorned 


140    BouU21,  WIESBADEN.  Greek  Chaptl, 

exteru&Uy  with  a  kind  of  red  and  white  moaaio,  and  internally  in 
the  style  of  the  Alhambra.  —  Two  new  Schools  in  the  yieinity.  — 
The  Fromenade  adjoining  the  Ueidenmaner  (PI.  24;  p.  137)  waa 
formerly  a  cemetery ;  it  commands  a  good  yiew  of  the  town. 

The  Protestant  Bergkirohe  (PI.  D,  £,  5),  a  brick  edifice  built 
by  OU€n  in  1877-79,  is  a  worthy  example  of  Hanoverian  Gothic ; 
the  interior  is  adorned  with  appropriate  frescoes  by  Schmidt.  Sa- 
cristan next  door. 

The  Old  Oemet«r7  (PI.  C,  8),  on  the  old  Limburg  road.  >/«  ^'  ^'^^ 
the  town,  contains  a  number  of  handsome  monuments,  the  best  of  which 
are  by  Gerth.  The  Matuoleum  (to  the  8.  of  the  dead-house)  of  the  Duchess 
Pauline  (d.  1866),  by  Boos,  is  embellished  with  sculptures  by  Drake  of 
Berlin.  Monument  to  the  faUen  of  1870-71,  with  a  bronze  Victory  by  Schiees, 
—  The  New  Cemetery^  pleasantly  situated  in  the  wood  on  the  way  to  the 
Platte  (PI.  A,  1),  also  contains  several  fine  monuments.  —  In  the  woods 
to  the  left  is  the  Schiteshalle. 

Wiesbaden  possesses  excellent  educational  establishments,  the 
chief  of  which  is  the  Chemical  Lahoratory  of  Freaenius, 

Enyibons  of  Wibsbadbn. 

The  promenades  of  the  ^Curpark'  (p.  138)  ascend  by  the  Ram-' 
bach  in  20  min.  to  the  Dietenmuhle  (PI.  H,  3),  where  there  is  a  good 
Hydropathic  EatabUshmerU  (with  restaurant).  About  1/4  hr.  beyond 
it  is  Sorvnervberg  (Jacquemar's  Inn) ,  a  village  with  a  castle  which 
once  belonged  to  the  Counts  of  Nassau,  and  was  destroyed  in  1689 
(tavern  at  the  top).  A  little  higher  up  the  valley  is  the  Stiickel- 
miihle^  a  favourite  garden-restaurant,  near  which,  at  Rambachy  a 
Roman  fort  was  excavated  in  1859. 

To  the  N.  of  Wiesbaden,  about  halfway  up  the  Neroberg^  1  M. 
to  the  N.  of  the  Cursaal  (pleasantest  route  through  the  Darnbachthal, 
PI.  D,  E,  2),  is  situated  the  '^Greek  GhapeI(Pl.  D,  1 ;  538  ft.),  erect- 
ed from  the  designs  of  Hoffmann  as  a  mausoleum  for  the  Duchess 
Elizabeth  Michailowna,  a  Russian  princess  (d.  1845).  The  terrace 
in  front  of  it  affords  a  line  view  of  Wiesbaden  and  Mayence ;  to  the 
S.  rises  the Melibocus,  to  the  S.W.  the  long  Donnersberg.  Adjacent 
is  the  Busso-Oreek  Cemetery^  with  several  handsome  monuments. 

The  richly-decorated  Chapel,  90  ft.  in  height,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  is  covered  by  a  large,  and  four  smaller  domes,  all  gilded  \  the  highest 
is  surmounted  by  a  Russian  double  cross,  190  ft.  from  the  ground,  secured  by 
gilded  chains.  The  interior  is  entirely  of  marble.  A  rich  altar-screen  (Jkono- 
stas)y  with  numerous  figures  of  saints  on  a  golden  ground,  painted  in 
Russia,  separates  the  body  of  the  chapel  from  the  choir,  to  which  the 
priests  and  their  attendants  alone  have  access.  The  altar,  above  which  is 
a  window  with  a  stained-glass  figure  of  the  Saviour,  is  visible  only  during 
divine  service.  A  pentagonal  recess  on  the  N.  side  contains  the  beautiful 
^Monument  of  the  Duchess.  The  recumbent  figure  of  white  marble,  rest- 
ing on  a  sarcophagus ,  at  the  sides  of  which  are  statuettes  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles ,  and  at  the  corners  Faith ,  Hope ,  Charity ,  and  Immortality,  was 
executed  by  Prof.  Jlop/garten  of  Berlin.  The  circle  of  angels  in  the 
dome  and  the  four  prophets  and  four  evangelists  in  the  angles  between 
the  arches  are  by  Hcp/garten,  the  painter.  Divine  service  on  Sundays,  10- 
11.  30  a.  m. ;  the  public  are  not  admitted.  At  other  times  the  chapel  is 
shown  by  the  sacristan  (fee  for  1-2  pers.  75  pf.,  3-4  pers.  IV2-2  m.). 


Neroberg.  WIESBADEN.  21 .  RouU,     141 

On  the  wooded  •Herob«fg  (PL  C,  1),  to  the  N.W.  of,  and  y^ht. 
Above  the  chapel  (load  indioated  by  ligu-postB),  is  an  open  TempU 
(725  ft.),  commanding  an  extensive  prospect.  Beside  it  is  a  large 
oak,  amid  the  branches  of  which  a  gallery  has  been  constracted, 
reached  by  easy  steps.  The  •Hotel  ('pens.')  built  by  LemekCj  is 
snited  for  a  stay  of  some  time.  Promenades  intersect  the  wood  in 
every  direction,  and  extend  as  far  as  (3  Y^  M.)  the  Platte  (see  below), 
the  way  to  which  is  shown  by  a  guide-post.  Other  paths,  also  in- 
dicated by  finger-posts,  lead  to  the  Speienkopf  (iO  min.),  the 
Feisenfffuppe  (20  min.),  the  Leiehtwdashdhle  (25  min.),  the  Trauer- 
buche  (35  min.),  and  various  other  points.  —  We  may  now  return  to 
the  town  by  the  Neroihcdy  a  pleasant  grassy  valley,  in  which  lie  the 
garden-restaurant  of  ^Bcau  Site'  (PI.  B,  2 ;  tramway,  p.  136)  and 
the  popular  hydropathic  establishment  of  Nerothal  (PI.  G,  3 ;  see 
also  p.  137).  At  the  entrance  of  the  Nerothal  from  the  town  are 
a  Monument  (PI.  D,  3)  to  Nassovian  soldiers  who  fell  in  1870-71, 
and  Pagentte^er^s  OpVicUmic  HospitaL 

The  •Platte  (1640  ft.),  a  shooting-lodge  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau, 
built  in  1824  on  a  height  about  41/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Wiesbaden 
(comp.  the  Map,  p.  122),  is  frequently  visited  for  the  extensive 
view  (finest  by  evening-light),  embracing  the  Spessart,  Odenwald, 
and  Donnersberg,  and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Haardt 
Mts.,  with  Mayence  in  the  foreground.  The  two  fine  stags  at  the 
entrance  were  modelled  by  Rauch.  Inn  adjacent.  The  prettiest 
route  from  Wiesbaden  is  through  the  Nerothal,  and  by  the  Nero- 
berg, the  Wildkanzel,  and  the  Trauerbuche,  a  walk  of  1^/4  hr. 
(finger-posts).  The  carriage-drive  to  the  Platte  is  the  old  Limburg 
road.  —  Pedestrians  may  descend  from  the  Platte  to  the  S.E.  to 
(3  M.)  Sonnenberg  (p.  140).  The  path,  which  diverges  from  the 
main  road  to  the  left  by  a  grove  of  oaks,  is  distinctly  visible  from 
the  platform.    Wiesbaden  lies  IY2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Sonnenberg. 

About  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Wiesbaden,  to  the  right  of  the  old  Scbwal- 
bacli  (Ems)  road  lies  the  ancient  nunnery  of  ClarenthaU  founded  in  1296 
by  King  Adolph  of  Kassan  and  his  consort  Imagina  of  Limburg^  above  it 
is  a  building  formerly  used  as  a  PhmtanU'y  (restaurant).  —  About  1^/2  H. 
farther   on    (4V2   M.    from   Wiesbaden),    another   fine   view   is    obtained 


In  a  valley  to  the  right  of  the  Schwalbach  road,  is  the  extensive  fish-breed 
ing  establishment  of  Capt.  Forst  (restaurant  with  view). 

Another  very  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  ^Kellertkopf 
(1568  ft. :  belvedere  and  inn),  which  is  reached  from  Wiesbaden  via  Ram- 
bach  in  2  hrs.,  and  may  be  ascended  from  Ifiedernhausen  (p.  229)  in  one 
hour.  A  beautiful  forest-path  that  leads  to  it,  diverging  from  the  old  Id- 
stein  road,  can  scarcely  be  found  without  help. 

Wiesbaden  is  connected  with  Mosbach  (p.  126)  by  a  double  avenue  of 
horse-chestnuts.  Half-way  to  the  village  is  the  Adolphthdhe,  a  restaurant 
which  affords  a  beautiful  survey  of  the  Rheingau  as  far  as  the  Eochus- 
Capelle  near  Bingen. 


142 


22.  MayeBM. 


The  Central  Bailway  Station  (PI.  E,  F,  1-,  ^Sefltanrant,  good  wine) 
for  the  lines  of  ike  ^HeM$i$eke  LudwigtlMiJlm^  to  and  froni  Bingen,  Worms, 
Frankfort  (by  the  left  bank  of  the  Main),  and  Darmstadt,  v  situated  at 
the  W.  end  of  the  town.  Hotel-omnibuses  meet  the  trains.  The  8.  part 
of  the  town  is  served  by  the  Jfeuihor  station  (PI.  A,  3),  which  is  con- 
nected with  the  Central  Station  by  a  tunnel  under  the  oitadel,  1300  yds. 
long.  —  By  means  of  omnibnses  passengers  and  luggage  are  conveyed  from 
the  Central  Station  to  the  station  of  the  Taunus  and  Jiight  Hhenish  RaHtoay 
at  Castel  (comp.  Plan),  for  the  trains  to  Frankfort,  Wiesbaden,  Rudesheim, 
Lahnstein,  etc.  The  omnibus  fare  is  included  in  the  price  of  throngh 
tickets.  There  is  also  a  tramway  between  the  stations.  —  Ferry-boai  to 
Casta,  see  p.  223. 

Hotels.  On  the  Rhine:  "Hof  vow  Holland  (PI.  t\  D,  5),  Rhein- 
Sir.  77;  *Bhbinx8Ghbb  Hof  (PI.  a;  D,  5),  Rhein-Str.  61;  ^EiraLiscHBK  Hof 
(PI.  b;  D,  6),  Rhein-Str.  89;  these  three  are  of  the  first  class;  R.  from 
2V2,  B.  IV4,  D.  3  m.  —  EoLNSB  Hof  (PI.  d;  B,  4),  Rhein-Str.  13;  Taunds  Hotel 
(PI.  e;  C,  4),  Rhein-Str.  37;  Stadt  Bown  (PI.  g;  C,  4),  Rhein-Str.  41; 
Qkbxania  (PI.  f ;  C.  4),  Rhein-Str.  48,  B.  2,  B.  1  m. ;  ^SvApt  Cqblenz  (PI.  h ; 
C,4),  Rhein-Str.  49;  lldxia  ob  Pabis  (PI.  i;  C,  4),  Rhein-Str.  21,  R.  1V8-3, 
D.  i'/a  m. ,  well  spoken  of.  —  In  the  Town:  ♦Kakpfen  (PI.  k;  C,  4), 
opposite  the  post-office,  R.,  A.,  A  B.  2  m.  65  pf;,  D.  2  m.  25pf.,  commercial; 
Landsbbbo  (F1.  1;  D,4),  Lohrgasse  29,  B.  2  m.,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  2»/2  m.,  well 
spoken  of;  Hotbl  zub  Post  (PI.  m;  C,  4),  Brandgasse  14;  Schwab  (see 
below).  —  In  the  New  Town :  Pfalzbb  Hof  (PI.  n ;  E.  2),  close  to  the 
Central  Station,  with  restaurant ;  Haikzbb  Hof,  Bahnhoi-Str.  —  AtCattel: 
Ankbb,  opposite  the  new  bridge,  with  small  garden,  moderate  (good  beer). 

Bestaurants.  Wine.  *C(Mino  (PI.  D,  4),  Schuster-Str. ;  **  Yolk^  near  the 
theatre;  Schtoan,  Liebfrauen-Platz  7,  with  an  old  German  drinking-room ; 
Kirschy  Liebfrauen-Platz  12,  good  and  moderate ;  '^Hanaczik^  Jacobsberger- 
gasse  1  (PI.  B,  4),  good  cuisine;  RaiH  Restaurant  (see  above).  •«•  Bbbb.  Ba- 
variOy  DominiianerScif  both  in  the  Triton-Platz  (PL  D,  3);  Heilige  Geist. 
near  the  Rhein-Str.;  Meid,  Kastrich  56-57;  Dreik&nigthof^  Schuster-Strasse  2() 
Oreiffenklauer  JBof^  Emmerans-Str.  12,  with  garden.  Beer-rooms  of  the 
BheinUche  Brauerei  and  the  Aetie»-Brauerei  near  the  Central  Station. 
"Anker  Hotel  at  Castel,  see  above.  ^  Oaf6s.  Ca/i  de  Paris^  Chutenbergs- 
Platz,  with  restaurant;  caf^  in  the  Ifeue  Anlage^  see  p.  152;  Wocker^ 
Triton-Platz  (PL  D,  3);  Sehard,  Dominikaner-Str.,  near  the  theatre;  Ce^i 
Net^fy  Insel-Str.  (PL  D,  3);  Cafi  BouUvcird^  in  the  Boulevard  in  the  new 
town;  Caf ^-Restaurant  in  the  JStadthalle,  p.  147.  -^  Oonfeotioner.  Volk, 
Theater-Platz. 

Baths,  hot  and  cold,  on  the  quays  on  the  Rhine;  also  Swimming 
Baths.  In  winter  at  Martin's^  Mauritiusbogen ;  also  at  Kellerweg3. 

Oabs.  One-horse  for  »/<  hr.,  1-2  pers.  50,  3-4  pers.  70  pf. ;  for  1  hr, 
2  m.  or  2  m.  30  pf. ;  each  box  20  pf.,  travelling-bag  10  pf.,  smaller  articles 
free;  Neue  Anlage  or  Cemetery  80  pf.  or  Im. ;  Zahlhach  or  Weisenau,  Im. 
or  1  m.  20  pf. ;  to  Castel,  incl.  bridge-toll,  90  pf.  or  1  m.  —  Two-horse  about 
a  third  more.  —  For  each  hour  of  waiting  half  the  above  charges  per  hour ; 
for  return-journeys  one-half  fare  more  than  the  single  journey.  In 
summer  double  fares  from  10  p.m.  to  6  a.m.;  in  winter  a  fare  and  a 
half  from  7  to  9  p.m.,  and  double  fares  from  9  p.m.  to  7.  30  a.m. 

Steamboats  to  Biebrich  every  »/«  hr*  in  summer,  and  to  Kostheim, 
starting  near  the  new  bridge. 

Tramways,  see  the  Plan. 

Post  and  Telegrraph  Office,  in  the  Brand  (PL  D,  4),  and  at  the  Central 
Station. 

Kusic.  On  Sun.,  Tues.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.  afternoon  in  the  Neue  An- 
lage (p.  152);  on  Sun.,  Wed.,  and  Thurs.  evening  in  the  Stadthalle 
(p.  147). 

Ohief  Attractions.  Cathedral  and  its  monuments  (p.  147),  the  GKitenberg 
monument  (p.  150),  the  Eigelstein  (p.  152),  and  the  collection  of  Roman  Anti- 
quities in  the  Palace  (p.  144);  the  Rhine-quay  and  the  new  bridge  (p.  147). 


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Hittory.  MAYBNOB.  22.  RouU   143 

^-  Majreaoti  or  Mentt,  German  Maina  (t268  ft.)?  &  strongly 
fortifled  town  with  66,700  inhab.  (20,000  Prot. ,  3500  Jews)  and  a 
garrison  of  8000  soldiers,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
mie  S/Ufie,  opposite  and  below  the  influx  of  the  Maifhj  and  is  oon- 
neoted  wllli  the  small  town  of  Gabtbl  on  the  opposite  bank  by  a 
bridge  opened  in  1885*  The  old  streets  of  the  town  were  for  the 
most  part  narrow  and  crooked,  but  a  number  of  handsome  build- 
ings and  new  streets  have  sprung  up  of  late,  while  ample  space  for 
a  ^Neusiadt^,  ahnost  tripling  the  size  of  the  old  town,  has  been 
afforded  by  the  recent  widening  of  the  line  of  oircumvallation.  The 
railway,  which  formerly  skirted  the  Rhine,  was  transferred  to  its 
present  course  In  1884.   Large  new  harbours  haTe  also  been  built. 

Ma^nee  is  hifltovically  oae  of  Um  most  istereatiBg  of  the  Rhenish 
towns.  Its  important  strategic  situation  has  in  all  ages  attracted  attention. 
The  town  and  its  most  ancient  name  ( Mogontiacum)  are  of  Celtic  origin. 
Zn  B.  0.  14  Augustus  sent  his  son-in-law  Drusus  to  the  Bhine  as  com- 
xnander-in-ehief ,  and  to  him  the  fortress  of  Uayence  owes  its  foundation. 
His  camp  (castrum)  occupied  the  entire  table-land  between  M&yence  and 
Zahlbach  (p.  153),  and  was  adjoined  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine  by  a 
colony  consisting  chiefly  of  traders  and  veterans.  In  order  more  eflfectually 
to  pvolect  the  passage  of  the  ^biae,  a  seeond  smaller  (kutellum  was  soon 
afterwards  constructed  by  Drusus  on  the  opposite  bank,  whence  the  pre- 
sent CaHel  derives  its  origin  and  name.  Uayence  was  tne  seat  of  the  le- 
gate, or  goremor,  of  Oermania  Superior. 

Authentic  aoeounts  prOVe  that  Christianity  flourished  at  Hayence  in 
the  early  Uerovingian  period  (about  550),  and  the  town  afterwards  became 
a  bishopric,  tender  St  Boniface  (or  Winfried,  d.  755),  the  apostle  of  Cen- 
tral Germany,  the  see  was  raised  to  an  archbishopric  and  made  the  seat 
of  the  inrimate  of  Germany.  This  prelate,  the  son  of  an  Bngliah  wheel- 
wright, was  so  little  ashamed  of  his  parentage  that  he  assumed  a  pair 
of  wheels  as  his  armorial  bearings,  which  are  retained  to  this  day  in 
the  arms  of  the  city.  In  ISSSi  Arnold  Walpoden  (d.  1268),  a  oitieen  of 
Xayenee  and  the  chief  of  the  patrician  faAiily  of  the  'Lowenhaupter*, 
founded  the  League  of  the  Rhenish  Toums.  Uayence  became  the  centre 
and  leader  of  this  powerful  association,  which  ere  long  was  strengthened 
by  upwards  of  a  hundred  other  towns,  from  B&le  on  the  S.  to  Bremen 
and  Miinster  on  the  N.  Such  wad  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the  town 
at  that  period  that  it  was  called  the  'Goldene  Uainz\  Two  centuries 
later,  however,  it  lost  most  of  its  extensive  privileges  in  consequence 
of  a  violent  attack  made  upon  it  by  Archbishop  Adolph  of  Nassau  in 
1462,  on  which  occasion  500  cifisens  were  killed,  and  the  most  influential 
banished.  Thenceforth  the  once  independent  city  was  ruled  by  the  arch- 
bishops. Its  university,  founded  in  liTT.  boasted  of  such  distinguished  men 
as  Nicholas  Vogt,  John  v.  Udller,  Bodmann,  and  George  Forster  among 
its  members,  but  it  was  suppressed  by  the  French. 

On  22nd  Oct.,  1792,  the  French  republicans  under  Custine  entered  the 
town  almost  without  a  blow ,  but  it  was  retaken  the  following  year  by 
the  Prussians.  In  1797  it  was  ceded  to  France  by  the  Peace  of  Oampo 
Formid,  and  became  the  capital  of  the  Department  of  Mont  Tonnerre. 
In  1814  it  was  assigned  to  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hessen.  The  Fortre$t  of 
Uayence  belonged  to  the  German  Confederation  down  to  1866,  Austria 
and  Pruseia  having  the  Joint  right  of  providing  the  garrison.  Since  1866 
the  works  have  been  considerably  strengthened  and  extended. 

^<:"   The  new  CentrsJ  Bailway  Station  (PI.  E,  F,  1)  was  built  by 

BerdeUi  and  ornamented  by  8choU  and  Barih,  —  The  'Boulbtabd', 

iSfs^  toaih  street  of  the  new  town,  a  handsome  ayenue  oyer  60  yds. 

-;'.^icte,  embellished  with  trees  and  flower-beds,  and  flanked  for  part 


144  R(mU22.  MAYENOE.  Palace. 

of  its  length  by  imposing  bouses,  extends  from  the  station  to  the 
Rhine. 

The  Bahnkof'Sir.  (PI.  £,  2),  to  the  right  of  the  Boulevard,  leads 
to  the  Klbinb  Mt^NSTBR-PLATz  (PL  £,  1)  which  ocoupies  the  site  of 
the  Munster-Thor.  The  Schiller*Str.,  in  which  are  the  Qovttnmient 
BuUdinga,  diverges  hence  to  the  right  to  the  Schiller-Platz  (see 
p.  151),  while  the  Orosse  Bleiche  runs  eastwards  towards  the  Rhine, 
in  a  direction  almost  parallel  with  the  Boulevard. 

The  Qbossb  Bleiohb  (PL  E,  2,  3,  4)  is  the  principal  street  in 
the  old  town  of  Mayence.  On  the  N.  side  of  it,  at  the  comer  of  the 
Gartnergasse,  is  the  Reaidenee  of  the  Commandant^  where  permis- 
sion to  visit  the  Eigelstein  (p.  152)  is  obtained  (gratis).  In  a  small 
square  to  the  left  is  the  Ifeuhrunneny  an  obelisk  with  symbolic 
reliefs  and  river-gods  and  lions  below. 

On  the  right,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  street,  where  it  enters  the 
Schloss-Platz,  is  the  Church  of  8t.  Peter  (Fl.  18),  erected  in  1751, 
with  bold  vaulting  and  frescoes  by  Appiani.  —  On  the  N.  side  of 
the  large  Schloss-Platz  (F,  4),  which  is  surrounded  with  avenues  of 
trees  and  is  used  as  a  drilling-ground,  are  the  extensive  infantry- 
barracks,  formerly  a  military  hospital. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  former  electoral  Palaee 
(PI.  E,  4,  5),  a  large  red  sandstone  edifice,  begun  in  1627  and 
hastily  finished  in  1678  on  a  much  less  grand  scale  than  that  ori- 
ginally contemplated.  The  wing  facing  the  Schloss-Platz  was  com- 
pleted in  1754;  the  main  facade  fronts  the  Rhine.  It  was  the  resi- 
dence of  the  electors  down  to  the  French  occupation  (p.  143)  of  the 
town.  It  is  now  occupied  by  several  collections,  including  that  of 
*  Roman  and  Germanic  Antiquities ,  chiefly  consisting  of  objects 
found  at  Mayence  or  in  the  environs,  and  one  of  the  richest  in  Ger- 
many, the  *Roman-Oermanic  Central  Museum,  the  Picture  Oallery 
and  the  Public  Library.  —  The  collections  are  open  on  Sundays 
9-1,  and  Wednesdays  and  Thursdays  2-5  free;  at  other  times  cards 
of  admission  (y2iii-)  must  be  obtained.   Catalogue  1  m. 

The  Entranck,  indicated  by  an  inscription,  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
building,  in  the  Schloss-Platz. 

The  YBSTiBULB  contains  the  original  models  of  Thorv€Ud*en*s  statue  of 
Gutenberg  (p.  150)  and  iSeholV*  statue  of  Schiller  (p.  151),  and  an  altar 
with  reliefs  of  various  divinities,  erected  by  the  *Vicani  Mogontiacenses 
vicl  noyi\  On  the  wall  is  the  tomostone  of  the  herdsman  Jucundus,  with 
a  metrical  inscription  in  which  the  name  of  the  river  Main  occurs  as 
'H<Bnus\  —  Beyond  this  we  enter  a  suite  of  four  halls  containing  Roman 
and  medieeyal  monuments  in  stone  (Catalogue  of  the  Roman  inscriptions, 
Im.).  Hall  I.:  Roman  altars  and  tombstones ^  222,  167,  168,  224.  Military 
tombstones,  with  reliefs;  190.  Drusus  Oermanicus.  —  Hall  II.:  241,  242. 
Tombstones  of  a  child,  with  appropriate  inscription ;  247.  Tombstone  of 
a  slave,  with  a  representation  of  the  symbols  of  mortality.  —  Hall  III. : 
*232.  Tombstone  of  Blussus,  a  ship-master,  with  reliefs  of  himself,  his 
wife,  and  child  on  the  one  side,  and  his  vessel  on  the  other.  The 
same  hall  contains  sculptured  fragments,  tiles  and  pipes  stamped  with  the 
marks  of  different  legions,  etc.  —  Hall  IV. :  Mediieval  objects,  including 
reliefs  of  the  seven  electors,  of  Emp.  Henry  VII.,  and  of  St.  Martin,  dating 
from  1312,  brought  from  the  old  Merchants*  Hall }  Jewish  tombstones  of  the 


Palaet.  MAYBNCK.  52.  Route.     145 

13ih  and  14th  centuries.  —  Retarniag  to  Hall  I.  and  erosslng  the  staircase 
(on  which  are  stakes  from  the  Roman  bridge  over  the  Rhine;  mosaic 
pavement}  228a.  Richly  ornamented  tombstone  of  a  Roman  officer ;  190a. 
Public  monument  erected  in  honour  of  .the  Emp.  Claudius,  by  the  Roman 
merchants  at  Mayenee),  we  next  reach  — 

Roox  I.,  containing  medinyal  objects  (armorial  bearings,  weaponii, 
vases),  and  in  the  centre  the  obiects  found  during  the  removal  of  the 
Roman  bridge  over  the  Rhine  in  1880-82  \  also  a  model  of  the  bridge.  — 
Boom  II.,  a^oining  this  on  the  right,  contains  Ctermanic  antiquities  (both 
native  German  objects  and  ancient  imported  Italian  articles  discovered  in 
German  tombs).  Clay  vessels  from  the  most  primitive  times ;  weapons 
and  implements  of  flint  and  horn ;  ornaments ;  bronze  and  iron  weapons. 
Room  UI.  In  the  middle,  Germanic  antiquities  (interesting  collection  of 
bronze  articles;  Etruscan  candelabra,  brazen  shields,  helmet  and  morion, 
vessels).  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  are  Roman,  to  the  right,  Franconian 
antiquities.  We  first  inspect  the  Roman  section.  By  the  first  window : 
•Objects  from  the  Roman  civil  cemetery  discovered  in  1883  in  the  Neue 
Anlage;  body  of  a  woman  with  a  wig,  in  the  original  leaden  coffin;  in 
the  tall  adjoining  glass-case  two  other  well-preserved  Roman  wigs,  fine 
glass,  etc.  In  the  separate  case  (V)  the  contents  of  a  Roman  shoemaker's 
workshop,  with  sandals,  leather,  and  tools,  found  in  1857  in  the  Schiller- 
Plats.  By  the  second  window :  remains  of  a  goblet  in  perforated  work 
(^vas  diatretnm');  bottle  with  chased  Bacchic  scenes;  to  the  right,  head  in 
bronze;  chariot  with  figure  in  bronze-gilt;  weapons  and  utensils  of  various 
kinds.  In  the  window  recesses,  two  bronze  water-taps,  in  the  shape  of 
lions'  heads,  rings,  keys,  pins,  glass  vessels,  surgical  instruments,  military 
diplomas,  etc.  Below  a  large  glass-covering :  funereal  urns  of  five  legionaries. 
Besid«  them,  stone-coffins.  On  and  in  the  cases  on  the  wall,  clay-vessels 
of  all  kinds ;  funereal  urns.  —  The  Franconian  antiquities  occupy  the  right 
side  of  the  room.  On  the  pillars  the  most  ancient  Christian  inscribed 
stones  found  on  the  Rhine.  Under  a  glass  covering,  the  entire  tomb  of  a 
Franeoniui  woman,  from  Oberolm.  The  cabinets  contain  an  extensive 
eoUection  of  Franconian  weapons,  ornaments  (partly  enamelled  and  inlaid), 
utensils,  etc.  On  a  revolving  stand,  under  glass,  is  a  gold  enamelled  *Fi- 
bnla*,  with  the  Roman  eagle,  found  in  the  Stadthaus-Str.  in  1880,  and  early 
mediaeval  objects  in  gold  and  ivory. 

The  ^Roman- Germanic  Central  Museum^  whicli  we  next  enter, 
contains  reproductions  of  the  most  interesting  ante-Christian  anti- 
quities of  Germany,  and  affords  a  unique  survey  of  the  extant  mon- 
uments of  this  kind.    It  is  partly  supported  from  imperial  funds. 

Room  I.:  Germanic  antiquities  (both  native  and  imported  Etruscan). 
Models  of  German  and  Roman  weapons ;  models  of  a  lake^dwelling,  and 
of  a  'Heidenschanze'*  (such  as  the  Heidenmauer  mentioned  at  p.  137); 
models  of  altars  and  tombs.  Tools  of  flint  and  bone,  urns,  bronze  imple- 
ments. Brazen  and  stone  moulds  for  bronze  knives  and  ^celts\  The  wall- 
cases  to  the  left  and  right  of  the  entrance  contain  bronze  weapons  from 
Germanic  and  Gallic  tombs,  trumpets ;  Etruscan  utensils  found  to  the  N* 
of  the  Alps ;  small  bronze  chariot  with  figures  of  men  and  animals,  found 
in  a  tomb  at  Judenburg  in  Styria,  and  probably  used  as  a  stand  for  some 
kind  of  vessel ;  objects  from  Wiirtemberg  (including  two  painted  Greek 
dishes  and  ornamental  golden  horns)  and  from  tombs  at  Rodenbach  and 
Diirkheim.  Two  golden  hats  (?),  of  similar  workmanship,  the  one  found  at 
SchifiTerstadt  near  8peyer,  the  other  at  Corinth;  Chariot ('KesselwagenO  from 
Peckatel  in  Mecklenburg.  On  the  wall  and  at  the  windows  overlooking 
the  Rhine,  Collection  of  all  known  forms  of  Germanic  bronze  implements. 
Gold  objects  found  at  Vettersfelde.  On  the  walls,  Egyptian  and  Assyrian 
sculptures.  —  Room  II. :  Roman  AntiquiHei.  In  the  passage,  to  the  right, 
phalerse,  or  military  decorations,  worn  as  indicated  on  the  stones  placed 
beside  them,  found  at  Lauersfort.  On  the  other  side,  silver-gilt  ornaments 
for  horses,  paria  of  chariots,  horse-shoes,  etc.  In  the  show-cases,  implements 
and  utensils  (plane,  Roman  case  of  surgical  instruments;  ornaments).    In 

Bardbkbb's  Rhine.     10th  Edit.  10 


146    fiott««22.  MAYBNOB.  I'alace. 

the  eases  at  the  wall,  Roman  weaponSf  reproductiont  of  the  silver  objects 
found  at  Hildesheim,  urns,  bronse  pail,  statuettes  in  clay  and  brass,  etc. 
Above  one  of  the  cases,  models  of  the  Porta  Ni|$ra  at  Treves  (p.  170)  and 
*the  Igel  monument  (p.  175).  In  the  last  window^recess,  "Figure  of  a 
Roman  legionary  in  full  uniform.  —  Room  III.:  Franeonian  (Alemannian 
and  Burgundian)  AntiquMu,  In  the  wall -cases  to  the  right,  casts  from 
the  cathedral  at  Aix-la-Ghapelle -,  glass  vessels,  fhoes,  weapons  and  orna- 
ments from  the  tomb  of  Childeric  I.,  discovered  at  Toumay  in  1666  and 
now  at  Paris.  In  the  show-cases,  ornaments  and  utensils  of  various  kinds. 
In  frames,  golden  Lombard  Processional  Cross,  found  at  Honza;  golden 
necklace  with  barbaric  figures,  etc.  Roman  and  Korman  objects.  —  On 
the  Staircase  :  model  of  a  Roman  catapult,  and  tombstones  with  scenes 
from  Roman  domestic  life. 

We  now  ascend  the  staircase  (cartoons  of  Veit's  paintings  in 
the  cathedral,  p.  149)  to  the  second  floor,  on  which  is  the  Picture 
Gallery,    The  best  pictures  were  presented  by  Napoleon  I. 

Room  I.,  with  ante-room:  Modern  pictures,  chiefly  belonging  to  the 
Art  Union :  4.  F.  Becker,  The  Rolandsknappen  (5  water-colours)  -,  36.  F. 
LindenschmUty  Archbishop  Willigis  challenges  the  schools.  —  Rooms  II 
and  III.  Netherlandish  Works:  90.  Mierevelt^  Don  Ruy  Gomez,  Spanish 
secretary  of  state;  80.  8.  Bo/matMy  Kitchen  of  a  prince;  109.  Rubens  and 
Snydere,  Lady  in  a  poultry-yard ;  !^7.  Lairesse^  Baptism  of  St.  Augustine ; 
61.  P.  Brillj  The  building  of  the  tower  of  Babel ;  66.  F.  Bol,  Abraham  on 
Mt.  Horiah.  —  Rooms  IV.  and  V.  Italian  and  Spanish  Masters:  i68.  Lor.  di 
Credi,  Madonna;  160.  Ouerdno^  St.  Francis  of  Assisi ;  *170, 171, 172.  Gavd. 
Ferrari,  St  Jerome  in  a  landscape,  Adoration  of  the  Infant,  The  young'Tobias 
(three  admirable  pictures,  forming  a  winged  altar-piece);  187.  Chtido  Sent, 
Rape  of  Europa;  180.  Raphael  Menge,  St.  Catharine;  198.  ScMdone.  Visi- 
tation ;  189. 190.  Salv.  Roea,  Landscapes ;  195.  Titian,  Bacchanalian ;  198.  Ve- 
netian School,  Filial  love;  213.  Murillo,  Duck-stealer ;  217.  Velaequez,  Head 
of  a  cardinal.  In  the  centre  of  Room  V.  is  an  astronomical  clock  (of 
the  beginning  of  this  century).  —  Room  VI.  German  Masters  of  the  17th 
and  18th  cent.,  including  several  natives  of  Mayence.  —  Room  VII.  Ne- 
therlandish Masters:  *28i6.  Jordaens,  Christ  among  the  doctors.  —  Room 
VIII.  Old  German  School:  292.  L.  Cranach,  St  Jerome  and  the  lion;  294. 
Early  Copy  o/Dilrer,  Adam  and  Eve  (original  at  Madrid);  312.  Master  of 
the  8t.  Bartholomew  (Cologne  school),  St.  Andrew.  —  Room  IX.  French 
Masters :  335.  /oc.  van  Artois,  Foundation  of  the  Chartreuse,  a  large  land- 
scape, the  figure  of  St  Bruno  by  Le  JShieur;  345-348.  Ranucci  after  Claude 
Lorrain,  Four  periods  of  the  day,  painted  for  the  Empress  Josephine  in 
1812  (original  at  St.  Petersburg) ;  M9,  350.  Mignard,  Poetry,  History,  Paint- 
ing, and  the  God  of  Time ;  352,  863.  Oudry,  Animal-pieces ;  364.  Feme, 
Portrait  of  himself.  —  Room  X.  (Balcony  Room,  next  R.  VI).  Water-col- 
ours, drawings,  chalks,  etc. 

Opposite  the  picture-gallery ,  on  the  other  side  of  the  landing 
of  the  staircase,  we  pass  through  two  rooms  containing  casts  from 
the  antique,  and  enter  the  Akademie-Saal,  built  by  F.  Karl  v.  Erthal, 
the  last  elector,  in  1775,  with  ceiling-painting  by  Januarius  Zick 
of  Coblenz.  Opposite  the  portrait  of  the  founder  is  that  of  Grand 
Duke  Lewis  II.,  by  E,  Heuss. 

The  Library  and  the  Collection  of  Coins  occupy  the  second  and 
third  floors  of  the  W.  wing. 

The  former  consists  of  150,000  vols.,  including  1200  MSS.  from  the  8th 
cent,  onwards,  and  4600  incunabula,  among  which  are  early  impressions  by 
Gutenberg,  Fust,  and  Schoffer,  from  1459  onwards.  The  reading-room  con- 
tains portraits  of  nineteen  electors.  In  the  left  room,  in  front,  is  a  col- 
lection of  pictures  connected  with  Gutenbe^  and  the  invention  of  print- 
ing, and  a  case  containing  typographical  medals.  There  are  also  piaced 
here  a  model  in  cork  of  the  Roman  amphitheatre  at  Nimes,  and  a  model 


CaihedfcH.  MATENGE.  22.  Route,     147 

of  the  railway  bridge.  —  The  Coins  (12,000  specimens)  include  a  fall  set 
of  those  of  Mayence,  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne  down  to  the  overthrow 
of  the  electoral  sway. 

The  collection  of  the  Rhekibb  Katcral  Histort  Sooixtt  on  the  3rd 
and  4th  floors  is  extensive  and  well-arranged,  the  biological  collection  of 
insects  being  particularly  interesting. 

The  Court  contains  the  remains  of  an  old  Roman  bridge,  which  con- 
nected Mayence  with  Castel,  removed  from  the  Rhine  in  1881.  The  bridge 
was  probably  built  in  the  1st  cent,  of  our  era  and  was  afterwards  re- 
peatedly restored.  From  a  view  of  it  on  a  leaden  medal  found  at  Lyons, 
the  upper  part  seems  also  to  have  consisted  of  stone. 

Opposite  the  Electoral  Palace ,  to  the  S. ,  is  the  Palace  of  the 
Grand  Dt/fcc  (PI.  E,  5),  formerly  a  Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Orders  built 
at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cent.,  and  connected  with  it  is  the  Ar- 
senal j  which  was  erected  by  Elector  Philip  Charles  in  1736. 

A  handsome  new  *E8planade,  100  yds.  broad,  has  been  con- 
structed along  the  Rhine,  beginning  on  the  S.  at  the  railway-bridge 
mentioned  at  p.  152 ;  it  is  to  be  extended  on  the  N.  past  the  new 
harbour  (p.  143)  to  the  Ingelheimer  Au  (p.  127).  Part  of  it  is  planted 
with  trees.  —  Opposite  the  arsenal,  at  the  spot  where  the  old  Ro- 
man bridge  once  stood,  the  Rhine  is  spanned  by  a  new  iron  ^Bridge 
(PI.  E,  5),  erected  in  1881-85.  Of  the  five  arches  the  central  one 
has  a  clear  span  of  334  ft.,  and  the  others  of  321  ft.  and  282  ft. 
The  bridge  commands  a  fine  panorama.  Castel,  see  p.  223.  —  The 
StadthaUe  (PI.  D,  5)  is  an  elegant  modem  building  in  the  Renais- 
sance style,  surrounded  with  a  garden,  and  used  for  balls,  concerts, 
and  public  meetings.   Gaf ^-Restaurant,  see  p.  142. 

The  centre  of  the  old  town  of  Mayence  is  occupied  by  the 
market-place,  in  which  is  a  fountain  erected  in  1526  by  Elector 
Albert  of  Brandenburg,  and  the  imposing  cathedral. 

The  ^Cathedral  (C,  4)  was  built  under  Archbishop  Willigis 
(975-1011)  on  the  site  of  a  church  of  St.  Martin,  mentioned  as 
early  as  735,  but  it  was  burned  down  immediately  after  its  con- 
secration in  1009.  It  was  then  restored,  but  again  destroyed  by  lire 
in  1081,  1137,  and  1181,  after  each  of  which  occasions  it  was  re- 
erected  on  a  grander  scale  than  before.  In  the  13th,  14th,  and  15th 
centuries  various  Gothic  additions  were  made  to  the  edifice.  In 
1767  it  was  Injured  by  lightning,  and  in  1793  again  damaged 
during  the  siege,  after  which  it  was  repeatedly  used  as  a  maga- 
zine. In  1814  it  was  at  length  repaired  and  restored  to  its  sacred 
uses.  A  thorough  restoration  of  the  E.  part  of  the  building  was 
carried  out  in  1868-78,  under  the  superintendence  of  Herr  Cuypers 
of  Amsterdam.  The  Romanesque  middle  tower  was  erected  in 
place  of  a  Gothic  tower  with  a  dome,  while  the  crypt  under  the  E. 
choir  and  the  two  side-towers  were  renewed  in  harmony  with  the 
extant  remains.  In  consequence  of  all  these  vicissitudes  the  church 
possesses  great.value  in  the  history  of  architecture.  In  its  present 
form  it  consists  of  nave  and  aisles  with  chapels,  an  E.  and  a  W. 
choir,  and  a  W.  transept.  The  groups  of  towers  at  the  E,  and  W., 
especially  the  picturesque  W.  tower  above  the  cross,  present  an  im- 

10* 


148     Route  29. 


MAYENCE. 


Cathedral, 


posing  appearance,  somewhat  injured,  however,  by  the  numer- 
ous additions.  The  E.  round  towers  date  from  the  early  part 
of  the  11th  cent. ;  the  Chapel  of  St.  Godehard  at  the  N.  end  dates 
from  1136  (p.  150);  the  slender  pillars  of  the  nave,  each  al- 
ternate one  of  which  is 
provided  with  a  ressault, 
were  erected  after  1137; 
the  pointed  vaulting  and 
the  W.  choir (ahove  which 
is  an  equestrian  statue  of 
St.  Martin)  were  built  at 
the  end  of  the  12th  and 
beginning  of  the  13th 
cent.,  the  chapels  in  the 
13th- 15th,  and  the  hand- 
some cloisters  in  1397- 
1412,  while  the  upper  part 
of  the  principal  W.  tower 
was  restored  after  a  Are  in 
1767.  —  The  main  en- 
trance, which  is  reached 
between  some  of  the 
houses  in  the  market- 
place, is  in  the  N.  aisle. 

The  two  brazen  doors, 
which  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Liebfrauenkirche 
fa  church  taken  down  in 
1804),  were  executed  by 
order  of  Archb.  Willigis  in 
988,  as  the  Latin  inscrip- 
tion below  records.  On  the 
upper  panels  are  inscrip- 
tions, engraved  in  1135, 
enumerating  the  privi- 
leges granted  to  the  town 
by  Archbishop  Adalbert  I.,  out  of  gratitude  for  his  liberation  from 
the  hands  of  Henry  V.  (p.  276).  — There  are  other  entrances  in  the 
E.  facade  in  the  Liebfrauen-Platz,  with  interesting  old  capitals  at 
the  S.  portal,  and  in  the  S.  transept,  opening  from  the  Leich-Hof. 
The  cathedral  is  open  daily  8-9  and  9.30-12  a.m.,  and  2-6  p.m. 
The  verger,  who  lives  in  the  Leich-Hof  shows  the  Memorie,  clois- 
ters, crypt,  etc.  at  other  times  also  on  application  (fee). 

The  *Intbiiior,  the  vaulting  of  which  is  borne  by  56  pillars,  is 
174  yds.  long,  58  yds.  broad,  and  110  ft.  high  in  the  nave.  The 
vaulting  of  the  W.  choir,  nave,  and  aisles  has  been  painted  dark 
blue  and  richly  decorated,  the  dome  of  the  W.  choir  and  the  nave 


CatkedraL  MAYENCE.  29.  Route,     149 

being  adorned  with  paintings.  The  subjects  of  the  latter  arc  (in  the 
dome)  scenes  from  Old  Testament  history  referring  to  the  sacrifice 
of  Christ,  and  (in  the  nave)  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ.  Design- 
ed by  Ph,  Veit^  they  have  been  executed  by  Hennann^  Lasinsky, 
and  SettegasL  By  the  removal  of  the  whitewash  the  red  sandstone, 
the  colour  of  which  materially  enhances  the  architectural  forms, 
has  been  restored  to  light. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  interior  consists  in  the 
numerous  •Tombstones  it  contains,  ranging  from  the  13th  to  the 
19th  century.     We  begin  to  the  right  of  the  principal  entrance. 

N.  Tkan&bpt.  The  Font,  cast  in  pewter,  with  reliefs  by  Meister 
Johannes,  in  ld28,  has  been  temporarily  transferred  hither  from  the  E. 
choir.  Monuments  of  the  *  V<fn  Oablentz  family .  1692 ,  and  of  Canon 
Von  Breidenbach.  The  handsome  Portal  (closed),  in  the  transition-style, 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Heil.  Geistkirche. 

17.  AisLB.  By  the  Ist  pillar,  *Monnment  of  AUtert  of  Brandenburg , 
Elector  of  Mayenee  and  Archbishop  of  Magdeburg  (the  statue,  and  especially 
the  head,  admirably  executed),  1646;  adjacent  is  his  tombstone,  by  the  same 
pillar.  In  a  chapel  opposite ,  the  monument  of  the  family  of  Brendel  von 
JBomburg,  a  well-executed  Adoration  of  the  Gross  in  stone,  1663.  By  th  e 
2nd  pillar,  Elector  SdHtetkm  v.  Hetuenetamm^  1565.  By  the  Srd  pillar, 
Elector  Daniel  Brendel  v,  Homburg,  1682.  By  the  5th  pillar.  Elector  Wolf- 
gang V.  Dalberg,  1601.  Opposite,  in  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin,  which  was 
restored  in  the  Gothic  style  and  embellished  with  painting  and  stained 
glass  in  honour  of  Bishop  Ketteler^s  25th  year  of  office,  is  the  monument 
of  that  prelate  (d.  1877).  By  the  7th  pillar,  to  the  right,  Canon  Wolf- 
gang von  Betuen$tatnm  (d.  1694) ;  to  the  left.  Bishop  Hunutnn^  1884.  Oppo- 
site, in  the  chapel  of  the  Waldbotts  v.  Bassenheim^  are  an  entombment  in 
stone  and  numerous  reliefs  in  marble.  The  Raising  of  Lasams,  by  the 
pillar,  is  a  masterpiece  of  late  mediseval  wood-carving.  By  the  8th  pillar 
on  the  £.  is  a  monument  erected  in  1369  on  the  site  of  one  still  older,  by 
Bishop  Oerlach  to  St.  Boniface;  till  1829  it  was  in  the  church  of  St.  John. 
The  last  chapel  but  one  contains  a  Gothic  winged  altar  and  paintings  by 
aettegast.  In  the  last  chapel  is  a  Renaissance  altar  of  1623,  presented  by 
Canon  Jod.  von  Riedt.  On  the  wall  of  the  Pfarrchor,  opposite,  the  monu- 
ment of  Count  Lambert  J  an  imperial  general  who  fell  at  the  siege  of  Mayence 
in  1689.  —  Beneath  is  the  entrance  to  the  orypt,  see  p.  160. 

A  stair  of  19  steps  ascends  hence  to  the  Ftakxchob,  or  £.  Choir,  the 
floor  of  which  has  been  raised  about  8  ft.  by  the  restoration  of  the  crypt. 
It  is  not  now  used  for  divine  service.  To  the  left  of  the  steps  is  the 
monument  of  Canon  v.  Buehholz^  of  1609,  and  to  right  in  the  — 

Nave,  by  the  10th  pillar,  Elector  Peter  v.  Aspelt^  or  Aichspalt,  1320,  co- 
loured, leaning  with  his  right  hand  on  Henry  VII.  and  with  his  left  on 
Lewis  the  Bavarian,  the  two  emperors  crowned  by  him;  adjoining  him. 
King  John  of  Bohemia.  The  colouring  has  been  restored.  By  the  oppo- 
site pillar  on  the  S.  side,  monument  (coloured)  of  Archb.  Matthew  v.  Btt- 
check,  1328;  monument  of  Archb.  Siegfried  III.  v.  Eppsiein^  1249,  by  whom 
Count  William  of  Holland  and  Landgrave  Heinrich  Raspe  of  Thiiringen 
were  crowned  as  Roman  Kings.  By  the  8th  pillar  on  the  S.  side  (or  the 
2nd  to  the  left  when  we  approach  from  the  E.  choir),  Elector  Adolph  I.  of 
Nassau^  1390;  opposite  (N.  side).  Elector  John  II.  of  Nassau.^  1419,  a  rich 
Gothic  monument.  By  the  6th  pillar  on  the  N.  side,  ^Elector  Biether  v, 
Isenburg,  1482.  Opposite  is  the  Pulpit,  executed  in  stone  at  the  end  of 
the  15th  cent. ,  with  a  modern  covering  in  wood.  By  the  4th  pillar  on  the 
K.  side,  "Adalbert  of  Saxony^  administrator  of  the  archbishopric,  1484, 
with  a  simple  and  noble  figure  of  the  youthful  prince.  Opposite  (8.  side), 
^Elector  Berthold  v.  Henneberg,  1504,  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in  the 
cathedral.  By  the  2nd  pillar  on  the  8.,  '^Elector  Jacob  v.  Liebenstein,  150Q, 
late-Gothic.    Opposite  (N.  side),  Elector  Uriel  v.  0emmingen^  1514. 


150    Route  22,  MAYENGE.  Cathedral. 

8.  AiBLB.  On  the  wall  of  the  Pfwrchor,  ibe  monument  of  Landffrav9 
George  Christian  of  He$»en  (1677)-  The  beautifbl  Chapel  of  All.  Saints, 
recently  restored^  contains  an  altar  In  the  Renaissance  style,  presented  in 
1604  by  Phil.  Cratx  von  Scharfenstein,  afterwards  bishop  of  Worms.  By 
the  9th  column,  Elector  Aneelm  Franz  v.  Tngelhetm,  1696.  By  the  7th  pillar, 
^Elector  Damian  Hartard  v.  d.  Lepen^  1678.  Bithop  Colmar^  1818.  In  the 
chapel  opposite  is  a  Renaissance  altar  presented  by  Canon  Fried,  v.  Fiirsten- 
berg  (d.  1607),  and  a  winged  altar-piece  in  carved  work  on  a  gold  ground 
representing  the  Twelve  Apostles  and  the  Coronation  of  the  Virein,  1617. 
St.  Hichaers  Chapel  has  some  fine  stained  glass,  an  altar  of  1662  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  and  the  tombs  of  Canon  Motbach  v.  Linden/els  and  Canon 
Joe.  Heinrich  v.  WalJhrtinn  (1673).  —  To  the  left  of  the  handsome  entrance- 
portal  (12th  cent.)  to  the  'M emorie'  and  cloisters  (see  below)  a  Slab  is  built 
into  the  wall  bearing  an  inscription  to  the  memory  of  Faetrada  (or  Fastra- 
dana),  the  third  wife  of  Charlemagne;  she  died  at  Frankfort  in  794,  and 
was  buried  there  in  the  church  of  St.  Alban  which  was  destroyed  in  1662. 
—  At  the  other  side  of  the  entrance  is  the  monument  of  Canon  v.  Holz- 
hattsen,  an  Entombment  of  1668. 

The  S.  Tbansbpt  contains  several  monuments  to  prelates  of  the  iSth 
cent,  and  also  that  of  George  v.  ScMnenburg.,  Biehap  of  TTorms,  1629,  gilded 
and  painted.  A  fine  head  of  Saturn  on  the  monument  of  Canon  von  Brei- 
denbach-Bilrreeheim  (1746),  and  the  noble  Oothic  monument  of  AreM. 
Conrad  II.  v.  Weineberg^  1396,  adjoining  the  W.  choir,  are  noteworthy. 

The  BiSGHOFscHOB,  or  W.  Choib,  separated  from  the  transepts  by  choir- 
stalls  erected  in  1767,  contains  nothing  of  interest.  Above  the  stalls  rise 
two  monuments  of  electors,  which  possess  little  artistic  merit.  In  the 
dome  are  the  paintings  already  mentioned  (p.  148). 

From  the  S.  aisle  the  late-Romanesque  (13th  cent.)  portal  above  noticed 
(closed,  sacristan  for  one  visitor  40-50  pf.)  leads  into  the  Hemoria,  once 
the  chapter-house  or  episcopal  council-chamber,  erected  in  1243,  and  roofed 
with  wide  groined  vaulting.  To  the  right  here  is  the  old  entrance,  a 
beautiful  Romanesque  portal  of  the  11th  century.  By  the  W.  wall  (r.) 
is  the  episcopal  throne  in  stone.  Adjacent  are  several  monuments  of  the 
years  1686,  1650,  and  1658.  —  The  Gothic  Chapel  of  Bi.  Nicholae,  to  the 
S.  of  the  Memorie,  possesses  some  elegant  Gothic  ornamentation  of  the 
14th  cent.,  choir-stalls  in  the  Renaissance  style,  and  modern  stained  glass. 

The  ■'Oloiatera,  erected  in  1397-1412  in  the  Gothic  style,  also  contein 
several  monuments.  On  the  S.  wall  is  ''BchiBanthaler''e  Monument  to 
Frauenlob,  a  female  figure  decorating  a  coffin  with  a  wreath,  erected  by 
the  ladies  of  Mayence  in  1842  to  Count  Heinrich  von  Meissen  (d.  1318), 
surnamed  Frauenlob  (women's  praise),  ^the  pious  minstrel  of  the  Holy 
Virgin,  and  of  female  virtue\  Beyond  it,  on  the  £.  wall,  is  a  relief,  with 
good  heads,  brought  from  the  garden  of  the  Capuchins  in  1839,  and  erroneously 
supposed  to  represent  the  submission  of  the  rebellious  citizens  of  Hayence 
to  the  Archbishop  in  1332.  Near  it  is  an  older  tombstone  of  Frauenlob, 
erected  in  1783,  a  copy  of  the  original  of  1318,  which  had  been  accidentally 
destroyed.  Here  too  is  the  tombstone  of  the  court-jester  JEFenne  Neffe.^ 
known  as  *Witze-Henne''  (d.  1467).  —  Good  view  of  the  towers. 

The  Orypt,  under  the  E.  choir  (entrance  p.  149;  verger  has  key), 
restored  in  1872,  contains  some  very  antique  Romanesque  round  pillars, 
with  square  capitals. 

Between  the  K.  transept  of  the  cathedral  and  the  Harkt,  concealed 
from  view  by  surrounding  buildings,  is  the  Ohapel  of  St.  Godehard,  a  double 
church  with  aisles,  a  characteristic  Romanesque  building,  completed  in 
1136.  It  originally  formed  the  chapel  of  the  Archiepiscopal  palace,  but  is 
now  disused. 

Near  the  cathedral  Is  the  Gutbnbbbo's  Platz  (PI.  0,  D,  3) 
which  is  embellished  with  a  *8tatae  of  Ontenberg,  the  Inventor  of 
printing,  designed  by  ThoroaWAen^  executed  at  Paris,  and  erected 
in  1837.  At  the  sides  of  the  pedestal  are  two  reliefs.  The  inscrip- 
tion at  the  back  by  Ottfried  Miiller  runs  thus :  — 


Stalue  of  SehilUr,  MAYENOE.  S*J.  BouU.    151 

ArUm  fuae  Oraeeot  Muity  laMt^e  Latinot, 

Oermani  tollert  exttuUt  ingeniwn, 
iVtinc,  quidquid  vetere*  tapiunt  $apiuntque  reeentes, 

Won  tibi^  $ed  popuU$  omni^ta  id  $apittnt. 

JoHAKN  zuK  OENsrLEiscH,  flurnamed  Gutenbeko,  wm  born  in  Ha- 
yence  about  th«  end  of  tbe  14th  cent,  at  No.  23  BmmeranagaMe,  or  ^Hof 
zum  Oemjleiseh''  as  it  i0  called  by  the  inBoription.  The  ^ffo/  turn  Outen- 
berff\  which  once  belonged  to  his  mother's  family,  now  the  ^Civil  Casino'' 
(PI.  D,  4),  is  in  the  Schuster-Strasse  (see  below),  and  also  bears  an  inscrip- 
tion. Gutenberg's  first  printing-office  was  at  the  Bo/  turn  Jungtn^  Franzi*- 
kanergasse  3,  near  the  Stadi-Strasse,  and  those  of  JohaiM  Futi  and  PttM' 
8chdffer  at  the  Bof  turn  Bumbrecht^  Schuster-Strasse  20,  and  the  Sdidffer- 
Hof^  Korbgasse  3,  all  indicated  by  memorial  tablets.  The  second  possesses 
a  late-Oothic  staircase.  —  Owing  to  the  obscurity  which  envelopes  the 
inventor  of  printing,  and  to  the  fact  that  he  had  several  contemporaries 
of  the  same  name  as  himself,  there  is  some  difficulty  in  identifying 
him.  Native  and  foreign  writers,  however,  of  the  15th  cent,  agree  in 
naming  the  above-mentioned  Gutenberg  as  the  inventor.  His  first  attempts 
were  made  between  1440  and  1450  ^  and  the  earliest  book  printed  with 
moveable  types  was  the  famous  -*2-line  Bible  (1450-1455).  Johann  Fiut^ 
who  had  assisted  Gutenberg  in  this  work,  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  jud- 
icial decision  in  his  favour,  on  Nov.  5th,  1455,  confirming  him  in  the 
sole  possession  of  the  printing-office,  which  he  thereafter  managed  till  1466 
with  the  aid  of  Peter  Schdffer. 

Opposite  the  monument  is  the  Theatre^  erected  in  1833.  — In  the 
Schuster- Strasse^  one  of  the  chief  business-streets,  which  runs  off 
the  old  market-place,  Is  the  Church  of  8t,  Quentin  (PL  D,  4),  with 
curious  Romane8q[ue  ceiling-paintings. 

Following  the  broad  Ludwigs-Strasse  from  the  theatre  towards 
the  W.,  we  reach  the  Sohili.bb-Platz  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  planted  with 
lime-tfees,  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Military  Oovemmenl  Building Sj 
and  on  the  W.  by  the  Barracks  and  Military  Casino^  and  embellish- 
ed with  a  bronze  Statue  of  Schiller,  designed  by  SchoU,  and  erect* 
ed  in  1862.  The  Fountain  PiUar,  of  Felsberg  syenite  (p.  238), 
was  brought  from  the  palace  of  Charlemagne  at  Ingelheim  (p.  130). 
—  To  the  Central  Station  via  the  Schiller-Str.  see  p.  144. 

The  broad  Emmerich-Joseph-Strasse  leads  hence  westwards  to 
a  flight  of  76  steps  ascending  to  the  Mathilderh-Terrasse  (PL  D,  2), 
which  commands  an  extensive  view  of  the  town  and  environs.  On 
the  Kdstrich  (Caatrum)^  a  new  and  well-buUt  quarter  of  the  town 
has  sprung  up  since  the  explosion  of  a  powder-magazine  here  in 
1857. 

On  an  eminence  in  the  neighbourhood  rises  the  handsome  Qothic 
ChuMh  of  St.  8tepliom(PL  0, 2),  erected  in  1257-1318  on  the  highest 
site  In  the  town  (98  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  Rhine),  and  taste- 
fully restored  after  the  explosion  mentioned  above.  It  consists  of 
nave  and  aisles  of  nearly  equal  height,  a  peculiarity  rarely  seen 
in  Rhenish  churches.  Among  the  objects  of  interest  it  contains  are 
the  bones  and  sacerdotal  vestments  of  Archbishop  Willigis,  several 
monuments  in  stone,  and  altar-pieces  by  Veil  over  the  altars  on  the 
left.  The  altars,  pulpit,  and  organ-loft,  in  gilded  and  varnished 
wood,  are  executed  in  the  Gothic  style.  Behind  the  high-altar  are  a 


152     BouU22.  MAy£NOE.  CUadtL 

late-Gothic  canopy  of  1500  and  4  bionze  candelabra  of  1509.  The 
octagonal  Tower ^  216  ft.  high,  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of 
the  *View  it  commands.  Visitors  ring  near  the  flying  buttress  to 
the  right  of  the  N.  door  of  the  tower.  The  late-Gothic  Cloisters, 
dating  from  1499,  entered  from  the  right  aisle,  are  remarkable  fox 
their  tasteful  vaulting  and  windows. 

The  Stephan-Str.  continues  from  the  church  to  the  new  *Eis- 
grubweg',  where  the  *Windmuhlenherg  (PI.  B,  3),  an  eminence 
planted  with  lime-trees,  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the 
cathedral,  between  the  houses.  —  Beyond  the  Alarm-Bastion  is  the 
entrance  to  the  citadel. 

Within  the  Citadel  (PI.  A,  3 ;  adm.  p.  144),  whioh  occupies  the 
site  of  the  Roman  castrum,  rises  a  dark-grey,  circular  mass  of  stone, 
called  the  Eigelstein,  or  Eichelateifij  a  monument  said  by  tradi- 
tion to  have  been  erected  in  the  year  B.C.  9  by  the  2nd  and  14th 
Legions  in  honour  of  Drusus ,  who  was  killed  by  a  fall  from  his 
horse.  The  name,  which  was  in  use  early  in  the  middle  ages,  is 
connected  with  the  Latin  aquikif  or  eagle.  The  external  masonry 
has  long  since  disappeared,  and  the  monument  has  undergone  many 
changes  in  height  and  form.  At  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent,  it 
'was  82  ft.  high,  or  about  double  the  present  height.  In  1698  it  was 
furnished  with  a  spiral  staircase  in  the  Interior ;  the  top  commands 
a  good  survey  of  the  town  and  environs.  The  key  is  kept  by  the 
inspector  (fee  of  30-50  pf .  to  the  attendant  who  accompanies  the 
visitor). 

The  *Neue  Anlage  (restaurant;  music,  p.  142) ,  or  public  pro- 
menade, on  a  slight  eminence  near  the  Neuihor  (Pi,  A,  4;  tram- 
way), on  the  8.  side  of  the  town,  occupies  the  site  of  the  electoral 
chateau  of  Favorite,  The  grounds  are  intersected  by  the  railways  to 
Frankfort,  Darmstadt,  and  Ludwigshafen.  The  former  crosses  the 
Rhine  by  the  Bailwaj  Bridgpe,  which  lies  obliquely  between  the 
Mayence  bank  and  the  opposite,  ^Mainspitze'.  This  bridge,  which 
consists  of  four  arches ,  each  about  137  yds .  in  span ,  was  con- 
structed in  1862  on  Pauli's  ('flsh-beUy')  system.  It  commands  an 
admirable  view  up  and  down  stream. 

The  new  *Wallstra8M  (PI.  £,  F,  G,  1)  begins  behind  the  Cen- 
tral Station,  beyond  the  viaduct  which  carries  the  Binger-Str.  over 
the  railway,  and  ascends  to  the  right  along  the  inner  side  of  the 
new  fortifications.  It  leads  past  the  Oonsenheimer'-Thor,  a  military 
stores  factory,  the  Cavalry  Barracks  (distinguished  by  a  gilded 
horse  from  the  former  electoral  stables),  to  the  Mombaeher-Thorj 
and  commands  a  striking  view  of  Wiesbaden,  the  Taunus,  and  the 
Rheingau.  The  Gonsenheimer-Thor  is  abont  1/2  M-  ^'om  the  Cen- 
tral Station,  via  the  'Gonsenheimer  Hohle'. 

About  3/4  M.  from  the  Gau-Thor  (PL  C,  2),  and  about  the  same 
distance  from  the  Binger-Thor  (PI.  E,  1),  on  a  hill  to  the  right  of 
the  village  of  ZaMbach^  are  the  remains  of  another  interesting  Bo* 


KREUZNACH.  23.  RouU.     153 

man  Btructure,  an  *Aquedaot,  of  which  62  concrete  pillars,  some 
of  them  30  ft.  high,  are  still  standing.  By  this  channel  a  supply 
of  water  for  the  use  of  the  Roman  castle  was  conducted  to  a  reser- 
voir on  the  site  of  the  present  Entenpfuhl  (^duckpoud*),  a  distance 
of  about  6  M.  The  spring  called  the  Konigs-Bom,  which  the  aque- 
duct connected  with  the  Gastrum,  is  at  Finthen  (Fontanae),  on  the 
road  to  Bingen,  5  M.  from  Mayence. 

The  Cemetery,  which  was  once  the  burial-ground  of  the  Roman 
legions  and  of  the  earliest  Christian  church  (St.  Aureus),  lies  out- 
side the  Blnger-Thor.  It  occupies  an  eminence  near  Zahlbaeh  (see 
p.  152),  and  deserves  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  its  situation  and  its 
tasteful  arrangement.  Several  Roman  monuments  found  here  are 
preserved  in  the  so-called  Eiseme  TAurm,  Lohr-Strasse  12  (PI. 
D,  4) ;  we  ascend  a  narrow  stone  stair  and  are  met  at  the  top  by 
the  keeper,  through  whose  house  we  descend. 

23.  From  Bingerbruck  to  Kreoznach,  Saaxbrucken, 
and  Metz. 

Comp,  Map,  p.  132. 

137  M.  Kailwat  to  Ifeunkirehen  in  2V4-3V4  brs.,  to  Saarbrucken  in  Vz  hr, 
more;  thenee  to  Jfttt  IV2  hr.  (fares  to  Saarbriicken  11  m.  50,  8  m.  70,  5  lu. 
80  pf.  •,  to  Metz  17  m.  90,  13  m.  10,  8  m.  70  pf.). 

The  line  begins  at  Bingerbruck  (p.  119),  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Nahe,  skirts  the  Hufuruekj  traverses  vineyards  and  corn-fields, 
and  passes  several  small  stations ,  the  most  important  of  which  is 
(5  M.)  Langenlonaheim  (Berliner  Hof).  7  M.  Bretzenheim,  l*/2  M. 
to  the  N.  of  which  is  a  hermitage  with  a  church  hewn  in  the  rock. 

10  M.  Kxeumaeh.  —  Tbere  are  two  stations:  1.  Stadt  Kreuznaeh, 
Vs  U-  from  the  town,  and  1  M.  from  the  Curhans  \  2.  Bad  Kreuznach,  on 
the  £.  side  of  the  island  on  which  the  haths  are  situated.  Hotel-omni- 
buses and  cabs  await  the  arrival  of  the  trains.  Cab  with  two  horses  for 
1-2  pers.  1  m.,  with  one  horse  80  pf.,  for  each  additional  person  25  pf. 

Hotals.  In  the  town:  Adlbb,  Hoehstrasse,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3,  B.  1,  D. 
2'/2ni.,  *pen8'.  from  6  m.;  Pfalzes  Hof,  next  the  post-office,  R.  2  m.  50, 
B.  1  m.,  A.  50  pf.,  both  with  gardens;  Beblineb  Hof,  in  the  Kommarkt,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe.  Taubb,  near  the  Binger-Thor,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Nahe,  R.  and  B.  1  m.  80  pf.  \  Huff,  unpretending.  All  these 
hotels  are  often  crowded  in  the  height  of  summer.  Bath-houses  and  ho- 
tels in  and  near  the  Bade-Insel,  for  patients,  mostly  closed  in  winter:  Cdb- 
HAU8,  Emglisgheb  Hof,  Kauzbnbebo,  Obanienhof,  Dhbil-Schhidt,  Hof 
VON  Holland,  Edbopaisohbb  Hof,  H6tbl  Rotal,  HdxEL  Ribdbl,  Obamd 
HdTEL  DD  NoBD,  opposite  the  Elisabeth-Quelle,  Tadnds,  Low,  Db.  Schultz's 
Pbivatb  Baths,  etc.,  and  many  other  lodging-houses,  nearly  all  with  baths  \ 
^pens\  at  these  7-10  m. ;  highest  charges  from  15th  June  to  15th  Aug.  An 
ordinary  salt  bath  costs  1  m.  20  pf. 

Kmtauranta,  with  gardens:  *Clus$erath^  cafd-restaurant,  near  the  iron- 
bridge,  and  at  the  Kaiserau^  at  the  foot  of  the  Kauzenberg  (p.  156)  \  Qra- 
vitti,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe ;  Birkehbuschf  on  the  Bade-Insel  \  Tavbe, 
at  the  Stadthaus,  wine;  Wdrih^  with  shady  garden. 

Oabs.  Drive  in  the  town,  1-2  pers.,  with  2  horses  1  m.,  with  one 
horse  80  pf. ;  3  pers.,    1  m.  25,   and  1  m. ;    4  pers.,  1  m.  50  and  1  m.  25; 

rr  hour,  3  m.  and  2  m.    Carriages  to  the  following  places  and  back,  with 
hra.  atay:  — 


154    Boute23. 


KREUZNACH.  From  Bingerhruek 


•i-S'i 


Rheingrafen- 
stein  .   .   . 


Rheingraf en- 
stein  ▼!&  Miin- 
sier 

Rheingrafen- 
stein,Miin8ter, 
and  the  Ebern- 

burg 

Viiitora*  Tax. 


l-honse 

2-liora6 

-i^'- 

"of- 

9- 

12- 

10- 

13^ 

1-horte 

m.  pf. 

Hiinster .... 

5- 

Munster  (with- 

out retaining) 

2,50 

Ebernburg  or 

Altenbaumburg 

6- 

Rothenfels 

9  - 

Disibodenberg 

10  — 

Schloss  Dhaun 

18  — 

Per  hour  ,   .   . 

2,50 

2-horfle 
m.  pf. 

7,50 

8,90 

9  — 

12  — 

16  — 

24  — 

3,50 


The  *Brunnen  Karte'  for  the  season  costs  for  one  yera. 
12,  for  each  additional  member  of  the  same  family,  5  m.  more;  single 
ticket  admitting  to  the  grounds  of  the  Gurhaus  50  pf. 

Post  and  Telegraph  OfOoe  (PI.  3),  in  the  Neustadt,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Nahe ;  daring  the  season  also  at  the  Curhaus. 

Engliah  Church  Service  during  the  season  at  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m. 

Kfeu%nach  (340  ft.),  which  from  the  13th  to  the  15th  cent,  was 
the  capital  of  the  County  of  Sponheim ,  then  belonged  to  the  Pala- 
tinate, and  since  1814  has  been  Prussian  ,  lies  on  the  Nahe^  about 
10  M.  from  the  Rhine.  Pop.  16,400,  of  whom  one-third  are  Roman 
Catholics.  The  river  separates  the  Alistadt^  with  the  larger  Protest- 
ant church  (PI.  6)  and  the  Roman  Catholic  church  of  St.  Wolf- 
gang, on  the  right  bank,  from  the  Neustadt,  with  the  Roman  Ca- 
tholic church  (PI.  7),  on  the  left,  and  above  the  town  forms  the 
Bade-Insel ,  or  Bath  Island  (see  below).  A  stone  bridge ,  on  the 
buttresses  of  which  several  houses  are  built,  crosses  the  lower  part 
of  the  island ,  affording  a  picturesque  view,  and  unites  the  three 
different  parts  of  the  town.  The  ^otestcmt  Church  of  8t,  Paul 
(PI.  5)  on  the  Island,  near  the  bridge,  was  consecrated  in  1777,  to 
replace  an  earlier  edifice  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in 
1689.  The  ruins  of  the  Gothic  choir  of  the  latter,  dating  from  1330, 
were  fitted  up  as  an  English  Chapel  in  1857-63  (PI.  8).  Adjoining 
the  church  is  the  marble  statue  of  Dr.  Prieger  (d.  1863),  by  whom 
the  baths  were  first  brought  into  notice,  by  Cauer.  The  Protestant 
School,  in  the  Kreuz-Strasse,  contains  the  municipal  collection  of 
Roman  and  mediaeval  antiquities  (apply  to  the  school-janitor).  — 
To  the  N.  of  the  Altstadt,  beside  the  glass-works,  is  the  Heiden- 
mauer  ('Heathens'  walP),  the  remains  of  a  Roman  fortification 
erected  probably  by  Drusus.  A  Franconian  palace  afterwards  stood 
in  this  neighbourhood. 

Kreuznach  has  lately  become  a  watering-place  of  considerable 
repute,  and  is  visited  by  upwards  of  6000  patients  annually.  The 
Salt  Baths f  which  are  particularly  beneficial  in  cases  of  scrofula  and 
cutaneous  diseases ,  are  situated  on  and  near  the  Bade-Intel,  or 
Badeworth,  where  a  new  and  attractive  quarter  of  the  town  has  sprung 
up.  The  principal  street,  flanked  with  hotels,  lodging-houses,  and 
gardens ,  leads  from  the  church  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  Guy 
haus,  with  the  Badehaus  or  Bath  House,  built  in  1872,  and  forming 
the  rendezvous  of  patients  and  visitors ,  and  the  new  Inhalatorium. 
Many  of  the  former  drink  the  waters  of  the  Elisabeth-C^Ue)  -a- 


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S^ltoMeU,  MUNSTER.  23.  BouU.     155 

;:    ^ring  oontainiag  bromine  and  iodine,  «nd  rifling  from  the  porpkyry 

,2^^gKk  at  the  S.  end  of  the  island.    In  bad  weather  the  promenaders 

^^jike  shelter  in  a  covered  walk,  130  yds.  long.    Concerts  are  given 

here  thrice  daily  In  the  season.    The  agate  wares  of  Oberstein 

(p.  160)  are  among  the  most  attractive  of  the  various  objects  offered 

for  sale  here. 

Opposite  the  Gurhaus  an  iron  bridge  crosses  the  narrower  arm 
of  the  Nahe  and  connects  the  island  with  another  new  quarter,  con- 
sisting of  bath  and  lodging-houses ,  which  has  recently  sprung  up 
on  the  right  bank.  The  road  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  the  Bad 
Kreuznaeh  StcUion  (p.  153),  ^2  ^-  ^^^  ^^^  Gurhaus.  Near  this 
station  is  the  studio  (PI.  2)  of  the  Messrs.  Cauer,  well  known  for 
their  skilful  treatment  of  subjects  from  the  domains  of  fairy-tale 
('Sleeping  Beauty*,  *Cinderella*,  etc.).  —  Many  of  the  monuments 
in  the  cemetery,  which  lies  on  the  road  to  Hackenheim ,  are  by 
these  sculptors,  Including  a  memorial  of  the  war  of  1870-71  by 
Robert  Cauer  (d.  1885). 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nahe,  rises 
the  Sehlossberg  or  Kaoxenberg  (500  ft.),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
of  the  counts  of  Sponheim,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  The 
hill  is  laid  out  as  private  pleasure-grounds,  only  the  principal  avenues 
of  which  are  open  to  the  public.  The  vineyards  on  its  S.  slopes 
yield  an  excellent  wine,  called  *Kauzenberger\  The  summit  com- 
mands a  fine  ^View  of  the  valley  from  the  Rheingrafenstein  to 
Bingen.  A  lion  hewn  in  stone,  brought  here  firom  Dhaun(p.  159), 
commemorates  the  devotion  of  Michel  Mort,  abutcher  of  Kreuznaeh, 
who  sacrificed  his  life  in  a  battle  against  Archbishop  Werner  of 
Mayence  in  1279,  to  save  his  prince,  Johann  von  Sponheim.  Paths, 
with  picturesque  views ,  lead  hence  by  the  wooded  Haardt  to  the 
Bothenfels  (p.  156). 

From  the  new  quarter  beside  the  Bad-Kreuznach  Station,  the 
Salinen-Strasse  leads  past  the  Oranienhof  (near  which,  to  the  right, 
is  a  suspension  bridge  over  the  Nahe)  and  the  VictoriasUft,  a 
charity  hospital  for  children,  to  (1  M.)  the  saline  springs  and  salt- 
works (with  bath-house)  of  CarleluJle  and  Th^bdorflhalle  (Hdtel 
Sees;  H6t,  SchreibeTf  R.  10-15 m.  per  week;  Restaurant  in  the 
Curgarten;  Refreshments  at  the  forester's  house  in  the  wood). 
These  baths,  the  property  of  the  Grand-duke  of  Hessen,  may  also  be 
reached  by  a  shady  path  along  the  Nahe.  About  2^2  M.  farther 
on  lies  — 

Jfoniter  am  Stein.    —  HoteU.  ^Cushads^   HdTEL  Low;  *H6t£l 
Baum;  Stolzbnfbls,   well  spoken  of  v.  ^Schwan;  Adles;  Pariseb  Hof. 
lU>e  two  first  are  closed  in  winter.    Kumerous  private  hotels. 
'  ''■:    Ke>taarant>.    Cursaal;  Trumin''s  Rettaurant,  in  the  Hnttentbal,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Xahe  (see  p.  156}.). 
i    Tisitors'  Tax  the  same  as  at  Kreuznaeh. 

ICuAator  am  Stein  (370  ft.;  rail,  stat.,  seep.  157),  a  village 
,  ,itWftftnt,1y  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Rheingrafenstein  and  the  Gans, 


156    Route  fi3,  EBERNBURG.         From  Bingerhriick 

also  possesses  salt-springs,  and  has  of  late  years  acquired  impor- 
tance as  a  watering-place.  The  waters  of  the  principal  salt-spring 
(87*^  are  conducted  directly  to  the  baths,  which  are  well  fitted  up. 
The  Curgarten  is  connected  with  the  springs  by  a  covered  way. 
Mftnster  am  Stein  is  on  the  whole  less  expensive  than  Kreuznach. 

The  *Bhein(nrafe]iBtei]i  (803  ft.),  a  picturesque  cliff  of  por- 
phyry, here  rises  432  ft.  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  Nahe. 
The  river  should  be  crossed  by  the  ferry  near  the  saline  springs, 
and  the  Huttenthal  ascended  for  about  V4  M.,  when  a  good  new 
path  diverges  to  the  right  and  leads  to  the  ruin  in  1/2  hr.  (fine 
view).  The  boldly-situated  rained  castle,  built  In  the  11th  cent., 
once  the  residence  of  the  *Rheingrafen' (Rhenish  counts),  was  blown 
up  by  the  French  in  1689. 

The  •Gaiii  (1024  ft.),  an  indented  ridge  of  porphyry,  8/4  M.  to 
the  N.E.  of  the  Rhelngrafenstein,  commands  a  more  extensive  view, 
embracing  the  Nahethal  as  far  as  Bingen  and  part  of  the  Rheingan. 
At  the  top  are  an  iron  indicator  and  a  conspicuous  pavilion. 

FbOM   EbEUZNAOH  to   THB   GAN8,   BHBIMGBAFXNSTEIN,  AKD   M6N8TEB  AM 

Stbin  a  beautiful  walk  of  2V4-2V2  hrs. ,  a  route  hardly  to  be  mistaken. 
Following  the  road  in  a  straight  direction  from  the  Bad  Kreuznach  Sta- 
tion, and  passing  a  rock-cellar,  we  reach  the  conspicuous  ^Tempelchen'  on 
the  Kuhberg  in  1/2  hr.,  about  100  paces  beyond  which  a  path  diverges 
through  the  wood  to  the  right,  leading  to  the  OA  hr.)  Bheingra/ensteiner 
Eof.  Several  footpaths  ascend  hence  to  the  Gans.  The  route  from  the 
latter  to  the  Rheingrafenstein  is  by  a  field-road  towards  the  S.  provided 
with  a  direction-post,  and  leading  through  the  wood  to  the  ruin,  to  which 
steps  ascend.  Descent  to  the  Nahe  through  the  Huttenthal,  see  above. 
To  the  left,  past  the  Rheingrafensteiner  Hof,  we  reach  the  SchS/erplackeriy 
where  the  boundaries  of  Prussia,  Bavaria,  and  Hessen  meet.  Thence  to 
the  right  to  (1  hr.)  the  Altenbaumburg  (see  p.  157). 

Opposite  the  Rheingrafenstein ,  to  the  W. ,  rises  the  ruined 
♦Ebernburg,  once  the  stronghold  of  Franz  von  Sicklngen  (b.  1481, 
d.  1523),  and  at  that  time  often  an  asylum  for  outlaws  and  fugitives. 
Under  his  roof  several  of  the  early  Reformers  found  shelter,  and 
Ulrich  von  Hutten  here  composed  (1520^22)  his  letters  to  Charles  V., 
to  the  German  nobility,  and  to  the  German  nation.  The  castle  was 
fortified  by  the  French  in  1689 ,  but  was  again  dismantled  at  the 
Peace  of  Ryswyk  (1698).  The  ruin  remained  in  the  possession 
of  the  Sickingens  till  1750,  when  it  was  annexed  to  the  Palatinate. 
Out  ofthe  ruins  rises  a  quaint,  pinnacled  building,  fitted  up  as  an  inn, 
and  embellished  with  portraits  of  Slckingen  and  his  wife,  Ulrich 
von  Hutten,  and  others.  Old  weapons  and  bullets,  which  have  been 
dug  up,  are  preserved  in  the  castle-yard.  A  monument  to  Franz 
von  Sicklngen  and  Ulrich  von  Hutten  is  being  erected.  The  model, 
by  Robert  Oauer,  is  exhibited  in  the  castle-yard.  Fine  prospect.  — 
At  the  foot  of  the  hill  lies  DorfEbemburg  (Schneider's  Restaurant; 
Sickinger  Hof). 

The  view  from  the  ^othenfelB  (918  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  barren 
red  porphyry  cliff  2^2  M.  from  Kreuznach,  surpasses  those  from  the 
Gans  and  Fbernburg,  as  it  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Nahe  as  far 


to  Mett.  RQTH£NF£LS.  23.  Route,     157 

as  the  Lemberg,   and  the  Alsenzthal  as  far  as  the  Moschellands- 
berg. 

A  charming  excursion  from  Miinater  am  Stein  may  be  made  either 
via  the  Bheingrafensteiner  Hof  and  the  Schaferplacken  (p.  156),  or 
through  the  Huttenthaly  a  valley  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Kahe  (ferry, 
already  mentioned),  then  across  arable  land,  and  finally  through  beautiful 
woods,  to  the  (lV«nr.)  ^Altenbawnburg  (^Restaurant),  an  extensive  ruined 
castle  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1669,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  ancient 
^Baugrafen\  and  formerly  called  the  Boynehttrg^  or  Cronehurg.  Another 
route  is  by  railway  to  AUmbamberg  (see  below)  and  then  on  foot  to  (25  miu.) 
the  Altenbaumburg.  —  8cMot*  Mont/ort  may  be  reached  from  Miinster, 
by  the  Ebemburg  and  Brngeri^  in  2  hours.  The  extensive  castle  (refresh- 
ments at  the  Mw^forUr  Hof),  once  a  robber's  stronghold,  was  destroyed 
in  the  15th  century.  Turning  to  the  right  from  Bingert,  the  traveller  may 
ascend  to  the  summit  of  the  ^Lemberg  (1312  ft.),  which  rises  precipitously 
from  the  Kahe  and  commands  an  extensive  panorama.  Restaurant  at  the 
top,  open  in  summer  three  davs  weekly.  The  descent  may  be  made  by  a 
good  path  to  the  (30  min.)  Oberhaxisen  ferry,  whence  stat.  Waldbdckel- 
heim  (see  below)  is  reached  in  Va  ^r.  —  The  Lemberg  may  also  be  as- 
cended from  Stat.  Ifiederhatuenj  with  a  guide,  in  V/t  hr. 


Railttay  to  SAABBBtJcxBN  AKD  Mbtz.  The  district  between 
Krenznaeh  and  Waldboekelheim  (see  below)  and  the  neighbourhood 
of  Obersteln  are  the  most  pieturesqne  portions  of  the  line.  Leaving 
the  principal  station  at  Kreuznach,  the  train  crosses  the  Nahe,  stops 
at  the  Bad-Krtuxnaeh  station  (p.  153),  and  skirts  the  base  of  the 
Qans  (p.  156).  To  the  left,  where  the  train  next  crosses  the  Nahe, 
rise  the  two  cnricas  pinnacles  of  the  Eheingrafenstein  (p.  156). 

121/2  M.  MdnBter  am  Stein  (370  ft.),  see  p.  155. 

From  HIjmstkk  am  Stbin  to  Kaiskxslagtxbn,  37 Vs  ^-i  railway  in 
2-2V4  hrs.  (fares  4  m.  80,  3  m.  20,  2  m.  10  pf.).  The  line  crosses  the  Kahe, 
which  here  forms  the  boundary  between  Prussia  and  Bavaria,  and  beyond 
(V2  M.)  Ebemburg  (p.  156),  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Ahenz.  —  2V2  M. 
AlUnbatnberg  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Altenbaumburg  (see  above) ;  about 
3>/2  M.  henee,  beyond  FUr/eld^  is  the  Jbener  KapelU^  a  fine  example  of 
Gothic  architecture,  recently  restored.  —  31/2  M.  Bochstdtten. 

7  M.  Alsens  (Pi>»t),  a  village  with  a  coal-mine.  From  Alsenz  to  (4V3  H.) 
Gaugrehtoeilery  diligence  twice  a  day;  then  on  foot  throD^h  the  valley  of 
the  Appel  to  Iben  and  vi&  WonahHm  to  FUmhtim  (comp.  p.  260).  —  In  a 
pleasant  lateral  valley  to  the  W.  of  Alsenz  (3  M.,  diligence  thrice  daily) 
lies  the  small  town  of  Obermoschel  (Knobloch),  with  the  large  ruined  castle 
of  Landsbergy  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  Diligence  hence 
twice  a  day  to  (71/2  M.)  Meisenheim  (p.  158).  —  On  the  hill  to  the  right  of 
(9Vs  M.)  Manntpeiler  is  the  ruin  of  Bandeck,  10  M.  Bayer/eld'C6lln\  12  H. 
Dielkirchen. 

14  M.  SockenhauMn  (DeuUchet  Sous),  a  considerable  village,  the  best 
starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  the  Donnersberg  (see  p.  261).  —  16V2  V* 
Jmtw$il0r, 

20  M.  Wiimweiler  (Zum  Donnertberg),  an  industrious  village ,  with 
iron-works  and  a  copper-foundry,  near  the  picturesque  FaUtensteiner  Thal^ 
with  the  ruin  of  Falken»iein.  —  22  M.  Langmeil^  junction  for  the  line  from 
Alaey  (see  p.  261).  —  25  M.  Neuhenubach- Swmbach,  From  (27  M.)  Enken- 
bach  the  direct  line  to  (33V2  M.)  Kaiserslauiem  (p.  269)  diverges  to  the 
right  via  (311/2  H.)  E»eltf€rth.  —  The  main  line  continues  to  (31  H.)  ffoch- 
«peyet*,  where  it  joins  the  ^Pfalzisehe  Ludwigsbahn'  (p.  269).  —  37 V2  M. 
Kuiserslauternt  see  p.  269. 

Beyond  a  cutting  the  Ebemburg  (p.  156)  appears  on  the  left. 
The  train  next  runs  between  the  Nahe  and  the  base  of  the  preci- 


158     Route  23,  SPONHEIM.  From  Bingerhruek 

pitouB  BoihenfeU  (p.  156),  and  after  going  through  two  tunnels, 
passes  the  villages  of  Norheimy  Niederhausen^  and  Oberhauaeriy  and 
an  abrupt  rock  rising  on  the  right,  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 
Bockelheim,  destroyed  by  the  French  In  1688,  in  which  the  Emp. 
Henry  IV.  was  kept  prisoner  by  his  son  Henry  V.  in  1105.  1972  M. 
Waldbockelheim  lies  in  a  side-valley,  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station  ; 
the  above-mentioned  ruins  are  1  M.  from  the  station. 

The  caatle  and  abbey  of  Bponheim ,  the  ancestral  seat  of  one  of  the 
oldest  Rhenish  families  (comp.  p.  155) ,  lie  Vs  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Waldbockel- 
heim. The  church,  consecrated  in  1123,  occupying  the  site  of  an  older 
structure,  and  belonging  to  the  former  Benedictine  Abbey,  is  a  fine  ex- 
ample of  the  Romanesque  style,  and  has  been  restored.  Johann  Trithemius 
(p.  188),  the  learned  chronicler,  was  abbot  here  from  1484  to  1506. 

Emerging  from  a  tunnel  beyond  Waldbockelheim,  we  observe 
on  the  left,  beyond  the  Nahe,  the  extensive  ruins  of  "'Disiboden- 
bergt  a  monastery  founded  by  the  Irish  bishop  Disibodus  (d.  about 
700) ,  the  first  propagator  of  Christianity  in  this  district  (20  min. 
to  the  E.  of  Staudernheim).  It  was  rebuilt  in  1150,  but  abandoned 
in  1559,  and  soon  fell  into  decay.  The  Abbey  Church,  consecrated 
in  1143,  was  an  imposing  edifice  with  pillars ;  the  vaulting  of  the 
choir ,  which  was  composed  of  nave  and  aisles,  was  borne  by  im- 
bedded columns.  The  secular  portions  of  the  monastery  are  in  the 
Gothic  style  of  the  13th  cent.,  when  it  had  come  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Cistercians.  Adjoining  the  church  were  the  cloisters, 
and  to  the  right  of  them  the  chapter-house.  Farther  to  the  W.  was 
the  residence  of  the  abbot,  with  a  view  over  the  valley  of  the  Nahe, 
and  to  the  E.  was  the  refectory,  of  which  the  gable-walls  are  still 
standing.  The  custodian  shows  a  number  of  Gothic  fragments 
(chiefly  key-stones)  from  the  old  building,  which  are  collected  in 
a  vault.  The  pleasure-grounds  around  the  ruins  afford  a  good  sur- 
vey of  the  valleys  of  the  Nahe  and  its  affluent  the  Glan. 

221/2  M.  Staudernheim  (*Salmen)  lies  to  the  left,  connected 
with  the  station  by  the  five-arched  'Landgrafen-Brucke'. 

Diligence  from  Staudernheim  twice  daily  in  IV2  hr.  (carr.  4V2  m.)  to 
Meisenheim  (Engel)^  a  Prussian  district-town,  7  H.  to  the  S.,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Olan,  The  old  *Schlosskirche ,  a  gem  of  late -Gothic 
architecture,  built  in  1479  and  restored  in  1878-80,  contains  the  handsome 
Renaissance  monument  of  Prince  Charles  I  of  Pfalz-Zweibriicken  (d.  1620), 
and  the  tombs  of  several  other  members  of  the  same  house.  —  Diligence 
from  Meisenheim  to  Lauterecken  (p.  269^  7  M.)  twice  daily  ^  thence  to 
Kai$er9lautem  (21  M.),  railway  in  2V4  hrs.  (see  p.  269):  to  Offenbach-am- 
Olan  (p.  269;  3  M.),  diligence  daily  in  1/2  hr. 

24  m.  Sobemheim  (Poaf ;  AdUr.  well  spoken  of)  is  a  small  town 
of  some  antiquity,  enclosed  by  a  wall.  It  possesses  a  late-Gothic 
church  and  an  old  chapel ,  parts  of  which  perhaps  date  from  the 
10th  century,  and  several  picturesque  old  houses,  the  most  no- 
ticeable of  which  is  one  in  the  Renaissance  style  with  a  tasteful 
oriel,  bearing  a  quaint  inscription  in  old-fashioned  German.  In 
the  N.  part  of  the  town,  V*  ^-  ^^^^  *^®  station,  are  an  old 
Chapel  and  Commandery  of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  the  latter  now 
used  as  a  school. 


toMelz.  KIRK.  M.  Route.     159 

27  M.  Momingen  (Wick's  Hotel ;  Pflug),  on  the  slope  to  the 
right,  yields  one  of  the  best  wines  of  the  Nahe.  On  the  right,  farther 
on,  is  (30  M.)  Martinatein  (Seipel),  curiously  built  on  a  rock,  with 
its  church  on  an  eminence  surrounded  by  a  fine  group  of  trees. 
The  station  is  V2^*  ^^^^  ^^^  Tillage.  Beyond  it,  in  a  yalley  opening 
on  the  right,  are  situated  the  grand  ruins  of  Schlosa  Dhaun. 

'^Bchloss  Shaon ,  the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Rheingrafen  which  be- 
came extinct  in  1760,  waa  erected  in  the  i2th  cent.,  and  greatly  extend- 
ed in  1729.  This  strikingly  -  picturesque  castle  is  situated  6  M.  from 
Monzingen ,  27%  H.  from  Martinstein,  and  S'/z  M.  from  Kim  (see  below ; 
carriage  V/2  m.).  A  relief  over  one  of  the  doors,  representing  an  ape 
giving  an  apple  to  a  child,  commemorates  the  incident  that  a  child  of 
one  of  the  Counts  was  carried  off  by  an  ape,  but  fortunately  recovered. 
Magnificent  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Kahe  as  far  as  the  Lemberg ,  of  the 
Simmerthal,  and  the  dark  ravines  of  the  Soonwald.  Admission,  including 
fee  to  attendant,  90  pf.    Kear  the  entrance  is  the  ff6tet  Dhaun. 

The  traveller  who  visits  Schloss  Dhaun  from  Martinstein  should  return 
from  Dor/  Dhaun  to  the  valley  of  the  Nahe  by  Johannisberg  (see  below). 

From  Martinstein  a  new  road  leads  through  the  picturesque  valley  of 
the  Simmerhach  or  KeUen^eh  to  (11  M.)  Qem&nden  (Post).  From  Gemiin- 
den  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  (1  hr.)  ruined  castle  of 
KoppentUiny  which  commands  a  splendid  ^Panorama  of  the  upper  Nahegau, 
the  Soon  and  the  Liitzelsoon,  and  the  heights  of  the  Huntruek  (to  the  N.). 
To  the  E.  of  Koppenstein  is  (3  M.)  the  Altenburg  (2210  ft.;  'View),  rising 
above  the  Soonwald,  a  wooded  district  abounding  in  all  kinds  of  game  \  the 
K.  part  of  the  forest,  with  the  lofty  Opel  and  the  Weisser^feU  (*View),  is 
more  easily  accessible  from  Stromberg  (p.  116)  or  Kreuznach.  About  3  M. 
to  the  N.  of  Gemiinden  is  BavenffterMtntrg^  which  possesses  an  interesting 
abbey-church. 

The  most  important  of  the  small  towns  and  villages  which  sprinkle 
the  Hunsrtick  is  Simmem  (Lamm),  containing  an  interesting  church 
(p.  xxxiii)  and  the  well-known  reformatory  Auf'^m  Sehmiedel.  Simmem 
may  be  reached  from  Gemunden  in  2V2  hrs.  (diligence  from  Mariinstein 
daily  in  4  hrs.  ^  to  Oberwesel,  16  M..  twice  daily  in  21/2  brs.;  to  Bacha- 
rach,  see  p.  115:  to  Boppard,  see  p.  l07^  to  Bullay,  see  p.  ISo).  —  From 
Simmem  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  K.W.  through  the  KiUzthal  to 
(9  M.)  Kaiiellauny  and  to  the  S.W.  to  (7  M.)  Kirehberg. 

On  an  eminence  to  the  right  stands  tiie  church  of  Johannisberg, 
which  contains  ancient  tombstones  of  the  Rheingrafen.  The  train 
next  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  reaches  — 

33  M.  Kim  (595  ft. ;  Stroh,  at  the  station;  Kothen),  a  thriving 
little  town,  with  manufactures  of  cloth  and  leather,  and  a  brewery. 
During  last  century  it  was  the  residence  of  the  Princes  of  Salm-Kyr- 
buig,  the  last  of  whom  was  guillotined  at  Paris  in  1794.  The  an- 
cient church  (nave  Romanesque,  choir  Gothic,  added  in  the  15th 
cent.)  contains  a  good  ciborium,  and  several  tombstones  of  Counts 
Palatine.  Above  the  town,  1  M.  from  the  station,  is  the  ruin  of 
Kyrhurg  (restaurant),  which,  in  1861,  was  freed  from  the  disfigur- 
ing buildings  around  it,  and  embellished  with  pleasure-grounds. 

A  road  ascends  from  Kirn  through  the  valley  of  the  Hahnenbaeh, 
which  falls  into  the  Kahe  here,  by  Biichenbeuren  to  Berncastel  (p.  187)  ana 
Trarbach  (p.  186)  on  the  Moselle.  About  IV3  M.  up  the  valley,  which  on 
the  night  of  5th  Aug.  1875,  was  visited,  along  with  Eim,  by  a  terrible  in- 
undation occasioned  by  a  water-spout,  are  the  ruins  of  Stein-KallenfeU, 
curiously  perched  on  the  rock  like  a  swallow's  nest.  At  the  entrance  to  the 
valley  are  several  agate-polishing  mills.  In  the  background  is  the  white 
castle  of  Wartanatein,  on  a  wooded  height.   Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Schmid" 


160    Route  23.  OBERSTEIN.  From  Bingerbniek 

burg  (1  hr.)«  From  Wartenstein  by  OberMusen  to  Dhauny  and  from  Dhaun 
by  Johannitberffy  or  through  the  woods  to  JTtm,  a  pleasant  walk  of  3V2  hrs. 

The  valley  now  expands,  but  the  line  again  enters  a  mountain- 
ous district  at  (35  M.)  Sulzbach ,  where  the  cliflfs  become  more 
abrupt.  The  most  interesting  part  of  the  line  in  point  of  construc- 
tion is  between  Kirn  and  Birkenfeld,  where  there  are  no  fewer  than 
twenty  bridges  over  the  Nahe  and  ten  tunnels,  while  the  whole  of 
the  remaining  part  of  the  line  has  five  bridges  and  five  tunnels 
only.  Before  (38  M.)  Fiachbach  the  train  crosses  to  the  right  bank. 
—  89  M.  NahbolUnbach.  Then  follow  two  bridges  between  which 
is  a  tunnel.  To  the  right  a  *yiew  of  the  ^Fallen  Bocks'  is  obtained, 
and  then  of  ObersUin^  situated  most  picturesquely  on  the  opposite 
bank. 

42  M.  Oberstein  (^Bestaurant  at  the  station,  with  pavilion 
and  *View  j  *Poat ,  in  the  town ,  near  the  new  bridge ;  agates  sold 
at  several  shops),  a  town  with  5000  inhab.,  is  the  finest  point  on 
the  Nahe.  The  precipitous  cliffs ,  400  ft.  in  height,  which  confine 
the  town  within  narrow  limits,  are  crowned  with  two  ruined  castles 
of  the  Barons  of  Oberstein,  who  became  extinct  in  1670.  The  best 
way  to  the  castles  (there  and  back  1^2 1^0  ^*  '^®  'Burgweg',  ascend- 
ing to  the  left  of  the  Tost',  opposite  Wild's  brewery.  By  this  route 
we  first  reach  the  Neue  Burg  (Restaurant),  which  has  only  of  late 
fallen  to  decay,  and  then,  beyond  a  hollow  containing  a  War  Menu- 
ment,  the  *Alte  Burg,  situated  almost  perpendicularly  above  the 
town.  About  5mln.  higher  is  a  pavilion  commanding  a  very  exten- 
sive *  View.  We  may  now  return  by  the  ^Protestant  Churchy  curi- 
ously built  into  the  face  of  the  rock  about  halfway  down  (200  ft. 
above  the  Nahe),  and  said  to  have  been  erected  in  the  i2th  cent,  by 
a  member  of  the  Oberstein  family  with  his  own  hands,  as  an  atone- 
ment for  fratricide ;  it  was  restored  in  1482.  The  sexton  lives  close 
by.  The  Gothic  Roman  Catholic  Church,  built  of  grey  'melaphyre', 
lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe. 

Most  of  the  inhabitants  of  Oberstein  are  occupied  in  cutting 
and  polishing  agates.  These  stones  were  formerly  found  here  in 
abundance,  but  are  now  imported  from  Brazil  and  Montevideo.  A 
process  has  been  discovered  by  which  colourless  agates  are  con- 
verted into  onyxes,  sardonyxes,  etc.,  by  the  addition  of  colouring 
matter.  On  the  Jdarbach,  which  falls  into  the  Nahe  near  Oberstein, 
there  are  50  polishing  mills. 

Idar  (*Emi  Veeek,  or  SchiUzenhof),  1V«  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Oberstein 
(diligence  thrice  daily  in  20  min.)}  a  place  with  3800  inhab.,  also  possesses 
a  Gewerbehalle,  or  industrial  hall,  in  which  these  wares  are  sold  at  offici- 
ally-regulated prices.  At  Idar  and  Oberstein  upwards  of  100  ^goldsmiths' 
are  engaged  in  setting  the  stones  in  silver  and  other  metals.  -^  Beautiful 
excursion  to  the  Wildenburg  (2V2  hrs.)  by  the  Kateenloch ;  guide  necessary'. 

431/2  M.  Ensweiler;  46  M.  Sonnenherg ;  47  M.  Kronwoler; 
48V2  M.  Nohen;  50 V2  M.  Heimbach;  52  M.  Hoppstadten.  —  From 
(531/2  M.)  Birkenfeld-Neubriicke  a  branch-line  diverges  to  (3  M.) 
Birkenfeld  ( Emmerich) ,  the  capital  (2600 inhab.)  of  the  principality 


to  Mett.  NEUNKIRCHRN.  23.  Route,     161 

of  Birkenfeld,  now  belonging  to  the  Duchy  of  Oldenburg.  In  the 
neighbourhood  Ib  the  small  Bac{5au«r&runnen(0urhaus,  'pens.*  7  m.), 
near  the  village  of  Hambach,  with  a  spring  strongly  impregnated 
with  carbonic  acid  gas. 

56  M.  Nohfelden.  —  From  (5772  M.)  TurkismuhU  a  diligence 
runs  in  71/4  hrs.  to  (32  M.)  Trdves  vi&  Hermeskeil  (•Post). 

From  Turkismiihle  a  pleasant  excuraion  of  2V2  hrs.  may  D«  made  to 
the  Hunnenrinf ,  near  Oitenhaiuen.  We  follow  the  Treves  road  to  the 
brick-kilns  between  Bdtem  and  Otzenhausen,  and  V4  ^-  farther  on  turn 
to  the  rigbt  by  a  bye-road.  After  500  paces  we  again  torn  to  the  right 
and  at  the  top  of  the  plateaa  follow  the  lane  to  the  left.  The  Otzen- 
liaasen  Ring,  with  a  circumference  of  IV4  V.,  is  the  largest  and  best- 
preseryed  of  the  prehistoric  fortifications  in  the  Rhineland.  On  the  S. 
side,  where  the  hill  falls  away,  it  is  strengthened  by  an  additional  circle 
in  front.  The  enclosure  is  highest  (66  ft.)  on  the  17.  side,  where  the  hill 
affords  no  natural  fortification.  It  consists  of  loose  blocks  of  sandstone,  which, 
however,  were  perhaps  originally  fastened  together  in  an  upright  position. 

The  line  now  attains  the  culminating  point  (1030  ft.)  between  the 
Nahe  andBlies  at  (59  M.)  Namhom-Wallhauaen,  and  then  descends 
rapidly  to  the  district-town  of  — 

66  M.  Bt.  Wendel  (970  ft. ;  JochumX  a  town  with  5060  inhab. 
a  fine  old  Gothic  church  and  pulpit  of  1462.  Large  absinth-factory. 

About  7>/s  M.  to  the  W.  of  St.  Wendel  is  situated  the  small  town 
of  Tholoy  (Knoll),  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine  Abbey,  the  simple 
early -Qoihie  church  of  which  is  still  preserved.  Above  it  rises  the 
Sehaumberg  (1837  ft.) ,  a  volcanic  eminence  (porphyry) ,  which  affords  a 
fine  view.  Numerous  Roman  antiquities  are  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 
—  From  Tholey  to  Saarlouis  (p.  168),  19  M.,  diligence  in  iVs  hours. 

69  M.  medtrlitixweiler.  71  M.  OttweUer  (H6tel  Haass).  The 
handsome  building  on  the  hill  to  the  right  is  a  Protestant  Training 
School,  The  train  now  passes  through  the  WiebeUkirchcn  Tunnel, 
which  is  400  yds.  in  length. 

751/2  M.  Vennkirohen  (^Mester,  near  the  bridge ;  Simon,  at  the 
station),  a  town  with  17,655  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Mann- 
heim line  (R.  37).  Large  foundry  bebnging  to  Messrs.  Stumm 
(2700  workmen). 

Neunkirchen  is  also  connected  with  Saarbrucken  by  another  line  (16  M.), 
passing  BeMfffoeiler,  Quir$cheid,  Camphauten,  and  SeMei/rnQhle. 

Beyond  Neunkirchen  is  the  Bildstock  Tunnel  (517  yds.).  The 
numerous  cuttings  here  expose  to  view  strata  of  coal,  often  curiously 
dislodged.    The  coal-mines  all  belong  to  the  Prussian  government. 

771/2  M.  Beden;  81  M.  Friedriehsthal ;  83  M.  Sulzbaeh;  85V4M* 
DudweHeTf  the  long  row  of  glowing  coke-furnaces  at  which  forms 
an  imposing  spectacle  at  night. 

Between  the  stations  of  Suli^tach  and  Dudtceiler ,  in  a  wood  V4  ^-  ^ 
the  left  of  the  line,  is  situated  the  *Brennende  Berg' ,  or  burning  mountain, 
a  coal-bed  which  ignited  spontaneously  at  the  beginning  of  last  century. 
Slow  combustion  still  takes  place,  and  the  bed,  400  by  40  yds.,  is  gra- 
dually sinking.  Smoke  is  seen,  especially  after  rain,  issuing  from  the 
fissures,  in  which  eggs  are  sometimes  cooked  by  visitors. 

88  M.  St.  Johann-Saarbrftcken  (*Rhein,  Hof;  *Kohl;  Kom; 
*ZiXy  unpretending;  beer  at  the  Munehener  Kindl,  and  the  AU- 
manniii,  near  the  station),  two  sister-towns  on  the  right  and  left 

BAEnsKBB's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  11 


162    R<mU23.  SAABBBUCKEN.       From  Bingerbruck 

Dank,  of  the  Saar,  united  with  each  other  by  two  long  bridges. 
St.  Johana  (13,600  inhabitants),  containing  the  railway-station, 
is  entirely  modern,  dating  its  importance  from  the  constructioa. 
of  the  railway,  which  does  not  touch  Saarbriicken.  Down  to  1793 
Saacbriicken  (10,450  inhab.)  was  the  residence  of  the  princes  of 
Nassau- Saarbrucken,  whose  8chlos$j  burned  down  by  the  French 
revolutionary  army  in  that  year,  is  now  private  property;  the 
palace-ohurch  contains  monuments  of  the  princes.  The  hall  of  the 
Rathhaus  at  Saarbriicken  has,  by  order  of  the  Emperor,  been  de- 
corated with  frescoes  by  Werner,  commemorating  the  events  of 
19th  July  to  9th  Aug.  1870  (see  below).  —  Saarbriicken  is  the 
centre  of  a  very  important  coal-mining  district,  producing  in  1880 
six  million  tons  of  coals  and  employing  25,000  miners. 

Railway  to  Treves,  see  R.  24;  to  Saargemiind,  Uagenau,  and 
Strassburg,  see  R.  41 ;  to  St.  Ingbert  and  Zwelbriicken,  seep.  270; 
to  Neunklrchen  and  Ludwigshafen,  see  R.  37. 

On  the  heights  of  3pieh4ren ,  about  3  H.  to  the  S.  of  Saarbriicken ,  on 
6th  Aug.  1870,  a  sharp  engagement  took  place  between  the  Prussians  and 
French,  in  whieh  the  latter,  although  numerically  superior,  were  obliged 
to  retreat.  A  visit  to  the  battle  -  field  "  occupies  3-4  hrs.  (carr.  12  m.). 
The  Hetz  road  is  followed,  passing  the  (IY2H.)  J?Ar«n<fto/,  the  burial-place 
Oif  the  German  soldiers  who  fell  at  Spidieren,  an4  the  (1  M.)  toll -house 
and  *Ooldene  Bremrn'  inn,  near  which  is  the  Bpiekerer  Berg  Hotels  with 
a  collection  of  relics  of  the  battle.  On  the  left  rises  the  Bpioherer  Bery 
(875  ft.),  with  its  steep  and  scantily* wooded  slopes,  a  strong  position 
in  which  the  French  had  intrenched  themselves.  The  Oermans  began 
the  attack  from  the  right  and  left  side  of  the  road,  and  from  the  Winter- 
berff^  a,  hill  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  ^aarbnicKen.  A  tower  erected  here  to 
commemorate  the  victory  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  battle-field. 

At  St.  Amual,  IV2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Saarbriicken,  on  the  B.  side  of 
the  Winterberg,  is  a  *Church  in  the  best  Gothic  style,  with  remarkably 
line  font,  pulpit,  and  interesting  monuments  of  the  princes  of  Kassau- 
Saarbriicken.    Opposite  is  the  Ballberff,  with  a  modern  chateau. 

The  Railway  to  Mbtz  crosses  the  Saar^  traverses  the  battle- 
field of  6th  Aug.  1870,  and  passes  (5  M.)  Stieringen-  Wendel^  and  the 
little  town  of  (6  M.)  Forhach,  with  7200  inhabitants.  To  the  left 
in  the  distance  rises  the  hill  of  Spicheren  (see  above).  The  country 
beyond  Forbach  is  undulating.  9M.  Kochem.  At  (II1/4M.)  JBemnpen 
diverge  branch-lines  to  Saargtmund  (p.  289)  and  to  Teterchen  (see 
below)  and  ThiowvUle  (p.  168).  Next  (I33/4  M.)  Oberhomburg  on 
thejBoM<jZ,  (18  m.)  St  Avoid,  (23  M.)  Tetingtn,  (25  M.)  FaUttn- 
h^g,  (311/4  M.)^cmfl/,  (351/2  M.)  fiemiMy,  (41 1/2  M.)  Co wrccWcs- 
Bur^Med,  all  frequently  mentioned  in  the  annals  of  the  Franco- 
Prussian  war.  (Branch-line  from  Coutcelles  to  TeUf(hen  and  Bou», 
32  M.,  see  p.  168.)  Then  (45  M.)  Peltre,  which  was  entirely 
destroyed  in  consequence  of  a  sally  on  23rd  Sept.  1870.  On  the 
right,  before  the  station  of  Metz  is  entered,  rises  Fort  QutuUu,  now 
called  Fort  Goben. 

481/2  M.  Hetz.  —  Hoteli.  *Grand  Hotel  de  l'Edrope  (PI.  b;  C,  5), 
Rue  des  Clercs  4,  E.  from  2.  B.  I'A,  D.  4  m.,  L.  80,  A.  80,  omn.  80  pf.  •, 
*H6tel  de  Metz  (PI.  a;  C,  5),  Rue  des  Clercs  3,  similar  charges.  — 
HdxBL  DB  Pakis  (PI.  c )  C,  4),   Place  de  Chambre ,   near  the  cathedral, 


^th/itnir-ff     ^}  iTiiVrt^ry. 


Artitti-ri/, 


toMetz,  MJSTZ.  2$.  BouU.     163 

unpretending  and  tolerable,  R.  2,  B.  1  m.,  omn.  75  pf.^  Hotei.  Dannhofer 
(formerly  de  Londres),  Rue  au  Bid  4,  near  the  cathedral,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from 
!>/«,  I>.  2V2m.;  H6tel  Ldxsmboitbo,  Rue  Serpenoise  55:  H6tkl  du  Nord 
(PL  d;  C,  5),  Bue  Pierre  HArdie  4,  with  restaurant^  H6tsl  ds  la.  Poste 
(PL  g ;  C,  5),  Rue  des  Glercs  38 ,  R.  from  V/%  m.  ^  Rheivischeb  Hof,  Rue 
de  TEsplanade,  with  restaurant. 

Bestaurants.  *Moitri€r^  Rue  Ghapelrue  4,  adjoining  the  Rue  Serpe- 
noise ;  Nadvbaur^  Rue  Fabert  2,  confectioner  and  lunoheon-rooms ;  at  some 
of  the  hotels,  see  above.  —  Oafia  in  the  Esplanade  (PL  B,  5,  6),  in  '^View 
of  the  valley  of  the  Moselle,  the  heights  of  Oravelotte,  and  Fort  Friedrich 
KarL  —  Bear,  ffuber,  Rue  des  Allemands  lb,  and  Rue  Marcel  4;  Oermania, 
Avenue  Serpenoise,  with  entrance  in  the  Rue  Serpenoise,  with  garden. 

Tramways  to  all  the  city-gates,  and  to  Montigny^  Longeville^  and  Moulins, 

Mttz,  the  capital  of  Gennan  Lorraine,  with  54,716  inhab.,  moie 
than  a  fourth  of  whom  are  Qeiman  settlers  (pop.  before  the  Franco- 
German  war  55,000),  and  a  German  garrison  of  16,000  men,  lies 
in  a  wide  basin  on  tiie  Moselle,  which  flows  in  several  arms  through 
the  town,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  it  is  joined  by  the  SeiUe  on  the 
right.  It  was  the  Divodurum  of  the  Romans,  the  chief  town  of  the 
Gallic  tribes  of  the  Mediomatici,  and  in  the  5th  cent,  began  to  be 
known  as  Mettis.  In  406  it  was  plundered  by  the  Vandals,  and  in 
451  it  suffered  the  same  fate  from  the  Huns.  It  afterwards  came  into 
the  possession  of  the  Franks,  and  in  512  beci.me  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Austrasia.  Subsequently  Metz  was  a  free  dty  of  the 
German  Empire ,  until  it  was  taken  by  the  French  in  1552,  and 
successfully  maintained  by  them  against  an  army  which  besieged  it 
under  Charles  Y.  By  the  Peace  of  1556  it  was  ceded  to  the  French 
together  with  Toul  and  Verdun,  and  in  1871  it  was  again  incor- 
porated with  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

Metz  has  always  been  strongly  fortified  (at  one  time  by  Vauban),  and 
under  the  later  French  regime  was  rendered  one  of  (he  greatest  fortresses 
in  Europe  by  the  construction  of  forts  on  the  neighbouring  heights.  Until 
its  surrender  to  the  Oermans  on  27th  Oct.  1870,  the  fortress  had  never 
succumbed  to  an  enemy,  and  even  on  that  occasion  it  is  probable  that 
mismanagement  on  the  part  of  the  French  contributed  mainly  to  its 
downfall.  The  Germans  are  now  actively  engaged  in  restoring  and 
completing  the  fortifications.  The  outworks  form  a  girdle  round  the 
town  of  about  15  M.  in  circumference ;  the  most  distant  (Plappeville)  is 
about  4  M.  from  the  cathedral,  the  nearest  (St.  Quentin)  about  1  M., 
the  rest  2-3  M.  To  the  W.,  commanding  a  wide  surrounding  tract  of 
country  are:  Fort  St.  Quentiny  consisting  of  two  parts,  that  to  the  E.  being 
now  called  Friedrich  Karl  and  that  to  the  W.  Manstelu  \  and  Fort  Fkippe- 
ville^  now  named  C.  v.  Alvensleben  ■,  on  the  N.E.  are  Fort  St.  Julien^  now 
Manteu£fel,  and  Fort  Let  Bottes^  now  Zastrow  ^  to  the  S.E.  Fort  Queuleu, 
now  Goben;  to  the  S.  Fort  St.  Private  now  Prinz  August  v.  Wurttem- 
berg,  Belleeroix,  now  Steinmetz,  and  Moselle,  now  Voigts-Rhetz. 

The  *Gathbdbal  (PI.  7;  C,  4),  the  finest  edifice  in  the  town, 
is  a  magnificent  Gothic  structure,  begun  in  the  13th  centnry.  The 
naye  was  completed  before  1392,  the  choir  dates  from  the  15th  and 
16th  cent,  and  was  consecrated  in  1546 ,  and  the  unsightly  portal 
was  added  in  the  degraded  taste  of  the  18th  century.  The  whole  was 
thoroughly  restored  in  1830-35.  The  roof  caught  fire  in  1877,  dur- 
ing the  visit  of  the  Kmpezor  William,  but  has  since  been  restored. 
The  choir  contains  fine  stained-glass  windows,  the  oldest  of  which, 

11* 


164    Route  23,  METZ.  Cathedral. 

of  the  13th  cent.,  are  on  the  S.  side;  those  in  the  middle  are  of  the 
14th  and  15th  cent.,  and  several  others  are  modern.  The  tower, 
387  ft.  high  (110  steps  to  the  first  gallery,  105  more  to  the  huge 
hell  called  La  Muettty  and  78  thence  to  the  highest  gallery),  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  town  and  the  fertile  'Pat/8  M^8in\  The 
Marchi  Couvert  (PI.  23 ;  C,  4),  to  the  W.  of  the  cathedral,  should 
be  visited  by  the  traveller  in  the  morning  for  the  sake  of  seeing 
the  magnificent  display  of  vegetables  and  fruit  yielded  by  the  remark- 
ably fertile  environs. 

The  Placb  d'Abmbs  (PI.  C,  4),  adjoining  the  cathedral  on 
the  W.,  is  adorned  with  a  Statue  of  Marshal  Fabert  (d.  1662), 
a  native  of  Metz ,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  campaigns  of 
Louis  XIV.  The  Hdtel  de  ViUe  (PI.  20)  contains  the  Music  Migette, 
a  collection  of  cartoons  and  paintings  by  the  artist  Migette ,  illus- 
trating the  history  and  architecture  of  Metz  and  the  district  around ; 
also  a  few  Roman  and  Franconian  antiquities. 

The  Church  of  8t.  Vincent  (PI.  14;  0,  3),  a  fine  Gothic  structure 
begun  in  the  13th  cent.,  with  traces  of  the  Romanesque  style,  is 
disfigured  externally  with  an  unsuitable  modern  facade. 

In  the  Rue  Marcel  (PL  B,  4),  in  the  vicinity,  is  the  handsome 
modern  Romanesque  Church  of  8te,  Constance^  with  good  mural 
paintings  of  1861  by  Hussenot,  a  native  of  Metz.  The  church  be- 
longs to  the  extensive  Orphilinaty  or  orphan  asylum,  where  visitors 
apply  for  admission  to  the  church.  Near  the  adjacent  gate  is  the 
Military  Church,  a  new  building  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  lofty 
tower. 

The  Library  (PI.  2;  D,  4),  in  the  Rue  ChSvremont,  contains 
many  valuable  works  on  the  history  of  Lorraine  and  the  town  itself. 
The  Museum,  in  the  same  building,  is  open  on  Sun.  &  Thurs.  1-4, 
gratis;  on  other  days  10-4,  fee. 

Obound  Flooe.  Oalerie  ArcMologique  (catalogue  2  m.).  Boom  I. 
Greek  and  Boman  vases.  Boom  II.  Stone  monuments  from  the  environs 
of  Metz  :  9,  10,  35-40.  Boman  tombstones ;  27.  Altar  of  the  goddess  Epona ; 
79.  Altar  of  Mercury  and  Bosmerta;  89.  Monument  from  Arlon,  with  reliefs 
of  children ;  99.  Belief  of  a  shop ;  170.  Fine  statue  of  a  woman,  found  at 
Metz  ;  portions  of  a  monument  found  at  Mertens ;  richly-decorated  column, 
which  supported  an  equestrian  statue ;  figure  of  Victory  and  other  objects 
found  at  Sablon.  —  Mediaeval  Collection.  415.  Gothic  chimney-piece  from 
the  convent  of  St.  Elisabeth,  16th  cent. ;  440.  Basrelief  of  the  Twelve  Apostles 
and  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Agatha.  —  The  Fibst  Floob  contains  a  collec- 
tion of  smaller  Boman  antiquities,  a  Cabinet  of  Coins  (one  room),  a  Natural 
History  Cabinet,  and  the  Picture  Oallery  (three  rooms). 

In  the  same  street,  adjoining  the  Museum,  is  the  Australian 
Palace,  erected  on  the  site  and-partly  with  the  materials  of  a  Roman 
palace  in  1599.  It  has  recently  been  incorporated  with  a  new 
building  and  now  serves  as  a  commissariat-store.  The  tower,  which 
is  easier  to  ascend  than  that  of  the  cathedral,  commands  an  exten- 
sive panorama. 

The  handsome  Church  of  8L  Eucharius  (PI.  8 ;  E,5),  with  a  plain 
interior,  near  the  Porte  des  Allemands,  dates  from  the  12th  century. 


BattU  FUlda.  M£TZ.  23.  Boute.     165 

The  EsPLANADB,  whioh  extends  towards  the  S.W.  of  the  town, 

is  laid  out  in  pleasant  walks.  In  front  of  the  Esplanade  stands  a 
Statue  of  Marshal  Ney  (by  Pitre),  who  was  horn  at  Saarlouis  in 
1769,  created  Duo  d'Elohingen  by  Napoleon  in  1805,  and  Prince  de 
la  Moseowa  in  1812,  and  shot  in  1815  in  consequence  of  his  de- 
fection from  the  royal  cause  to  that  of  Napoleon  after  the  return  of 
the  emperor  from  Elba.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  a  fountain 
with  a  figure  modelled  by  Pttre,  and  a  bronze  Steed  by  Fratin. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Porte  Chambiere,  or  Schlachthaus-Thor  (PI.  E,  3), 
is  a  lofty  Memorial  to  the  French  soldiers  who  died  at  Metz  in  1870. 

Metz  is  the  Junction  of  the  Saarbrdoken  Railway  with  the  lines  to 
Pagny  and  Nancy  (i^,  167),  to  ThionvilU  (DUdenhofen^  p.  168j  and 
Luxtrribourg  (p.  176),  and  to  AmanviUtrs  and  Vtrdun,  (To  Aman- 
villers,  10  M.,  in  45-50  min.,  passing  Moulins^  situated  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  yalley  of  Monvaux^  which  the  train  ascends  ^  the 
station  of  Amanyillers  is  1^4  M.  from  St.  Privat). 

The  Battle  Fields  of  16ih  and  i8th  August,  1870,  lie  to  the  W.  of 
Hetz  on  the  road  to  Verdun.  A  visit  to  them  occupies  a  whole  day 
(9-iO  hrs.),  and  may  be  most  conveniently  accomplished  by  taking  the 
following  route  (either  entirely  by  carriage:  two-horse  carriage  90-fi)fr., 
the  best  at  the  principal  hotels  \  or  by  train  to  Kov^nt  and  by  omnibus 
to  Gorze,  and  the  rest  on  foot):  up  tiie  valley  of  the  Moselle  to  Naviant 
(p.  167) ;  thence  to  Gorze  S'A  M. ;  Yionville  3V4  M. ;  Bezonville  2  M. ;  Gra- 
veloUe  2  M. ;  8t.  Hubert  IV4  M.  \  back  to  Gravelotte  IV4  M. ;  from  Oravelotte 
to  Verniville  2  M.^  Ste.  MaHe-aux- Chine*  2V4  M. ;  St.  PiHvat-la-lfontagne 
and  AmanvillerSj  which  is  a  railway  -  station  (see  above),  2V4  VL.\  in  all 
about  17V4  M.  from  Gorze.  Information  on  all  points  connected  with  the 
battles  is  given  by  the  keepers  of  the  monuments  and  burial-grounds. 

Those  who  desire  to  visit  the  Battle  Field  of  the  18th  August  only 
should  proceed  by  railway  or  tramway  to  MouUns,  and  thence  follow 
the  road  vift  Gravelotte  to  St.  Privat-Amanvillers,  or  take  the  train  (or 
carriage  yi&  Woippy  and  Saulny)  all  the  way  to  Amanvillers,  and  begin 
the  walk  there.  This  last  method  is  to  be  recommended  because  in  this 
case  the  midday  meal  can  be  taken  in  the  good  inn  at  Gravelotte.  —  The 
road  from  Moulins  ascends  the  valley  of  Honvaux  to  the  right ;  for  walkers 
the  better  route  ascends  vi&  Sie.' Ruffine  to  Point  du  Jour).  Before 
we  cross  the  brook,  which  flows  through  the  valley,  at  MctUon  Neuve^ 
we  pass  a  road  diverging  to  the  right,  which,  like  the  railway,  runs 
through  the  valley  of  Monvaux  by  Chatel  to  Amanvillers  and  St.  Privat. 
By  the  village  of  RozerieuUeSy  farther  up  the  hill  on  the  main  road  to 
Gravelotte,  began  the  left  wing  of  the  French  army  (composed  of  the 
2nd  Corps  under  Frossard  and  the  3rd  Corps  under  Leboeuf),  whose  chief 
^point  d'appui**  was  the  farm  of  Point  du  Jour  situated  on  me  hill.  The 
Germans  who  opposed  them  consisted  of  the  7th  and  8th  Prussian  Corps 
(commanded  by  Zastrow  and  Goben  under  Steinmetz),  who  towards 
evening  were  supported  by  the  2nd  Corps  (under  Fransecky).  The 
French  maintained  their  position  until  nightfall,  but  retreated  on  the 
morning  of  the  19th.  The  inn  of  St.  Subert^  somewhat  lower  down  the 
hill,  had,  however,  previously  been  captured  by  the  Germans  in  the  course 
of  the  afternoon.  The  sanguinary  nature  of  the  struggle  is  shown 
by  the  numerous  tombstones  of  the  different  regiments.  The  road  de- 
scends into  a  ravine,  and  then  ascends  to  the  plateau  of  Oravelotte  C*  Hdtel 
du  Cheval  d^Or^  expensive),  6  M.  from  Moulins-les-Hctz.  In  the  middle  of 
the  village  the  road  divides,  both  branches  leading  to  Verdun.  On  that  to 
the  right  (N.),  about  1  M.  farther,  lies  the  farm  of  Malmaizon^  near  which 
a  good  survey  is  obtained  of  (he  farms  of  Point  du  /our,  Mozcou,  Leipzig 


166    BouU93.  GRAYELOTTE. 

MwOgnf'la-Grangtt  etc.,  on  tke  opposite  heights,  then  occupied  by  the 
French.  MalmaiaoB  wm  occupied  by  the  9th  Pnusian  Corps  d'Arm^e  (under 
Hanstein),  the  lines  of  which  extended  along  the  road  diverging  to  the 
right  as  far  as  (iy^  M.)  VemivilU.  To  the  W.  of  the  village  (reached  by  the 
road  diverging  to  the  left)  Ui  a  handsome  Monument  to  some  of  the  fallen 
Oermans.  Qood  view  from  the  height.  To  the  K.  of  Vem^ville  French 
territory  is  crossed  for  a  short  distance.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  other 
German  monuments.  The  villages  of  (iV4  M.)  ffabonville  and  (V4  M.)  St.  Ail^ 
from  which  the  right  wing  of  the  guards  (under  Prince  Augustus  of  Wiir- 
temberg)  and  behind  it  the  reserve  of  the  10th  Corps  (under  Voigts-Shetx) 
advanced,  are  French;  Ste.  Marie-aux-Chine*y  '/«  H.  nirther,  the  centre  of  the 
left  wing  of  the  guards,  now  belongs  to  Oermany.  Here  there  is  a  French 
monument.  Farther  K.  are  IfontoU-la'Montagne  and  Makmeourt^  where 
the  leffc  wing  of  the  Crennan  line  of  battle  was  terminated  by  the  Saxon 
curps  (under  the  Crown  Prince  of  Saxony).  The  right  wing  of  the  French 
opposite  (consisting  of  the  4th  Corps  under  Ladmirault,  and  the  6th  Corps 
under  Canrobert)  was  posted  by  the  villages  of  Ronoourt  and  Bt.  Frivat- 
la-Montagna,  on  the  road,  opposite  Ste.  Marie,  both  of  which  were  taken 
in  the  evening  by  an  attack  of  the  guards  and  the  Saxons,  whereupon 
the  right  French  wing  retreated  towards  Hetz  in  great  confusion.  Several 
Monuments  have  been  erected  to  the  Germans  on  the  road  from  Ste.  Marie 
to  St.  Privat.  From  the  latter  the  traveller  may  now  return  to  (1  M.) 
Amanvillers,  which  contains  two  German  monumenta.  and  by  the  above- 
mentioned  railway  to  (5  M.)  MouIins-les-Metz,  or  by  footpaths  passing  the 
farms  of  Montigny-la-Grange,  La-Jolie,  Leipzig,  Moscou,  and  Point  du  Jour. 
—  The  eight  German  Corps  d'Armee  engaged  in  this  battle  numbered 
about  230,(X)0  men,  opposed  to  whom  were  180jO(X)  French.  The  Germans 
lost  899  officers  and  19,260  men ;  the  French  609  officers  and  11,705  men. 

The  Battle  Field  of  the  16th  August  adjoins  that  above  described. 
The  position  of  the  French  was  principally  supported  on  the  left  by  the 
village  of  Bezonville,  situated  on  the  left  (S.)  branch  of  the  road  from  Grave- 
lotte,  and  IV2M.  distant  from  it-,  theEmp.  William  spent  the  night  of  18-19th 
Aug.  in  the  last  house  to  the  W.  (A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  village,  at  the 
end  of  the  ravine  ascending  from  Gorze,  mentioned  above,  is  a  monument 
to  the  commander  of  the  T^nd  Regiment,  who  fell  at  this  spot ;  good  view 
hence.)  The  French  line  of  battle  extended  in  a  semicircle  towards  the 
K.W.  as  far  as  8t.  Marcel  and  Bruville^  while  the  Germans  advanced 
from  the  woods  towards  the  S.,  in  the  direction  of  the  road.  Near 
Bezonville,  where  the  monuments  have  been  erected,  the  French  batteries 
planted  on  the  N.  side  of  the  road  were  gallantly  attacked  by  the  German 
cuirassiers  and  uhlans.  About  2  M.  farther  lies  Vionville,  which  was 
occupied  soon  after  the  beginning  of  the  battle  by  detachments  of  the 
3rd  Corps  d'^Armde  (Brandenburgers)  and  successfully  maintained  by  them 
in  spite  of  vehement  attacks  by  numerically-superior  French  troops,  so 
that  the  S.  branch  of  the  road  to  Verdun  was  rendered  unavailable  for 
the  French  retreat.  Here  also  rise  numerous  monuments  to  the  fallen. 
Between  Vionville  and  Mars-la-Tour  a  spirited  attack  was  made  by  the 
Dragoon  Guards  and  the  Bheinbaben  Cavalry  Division  in  aid  of  the  harassed 
infantry  of  the  10th  Corps.  Mars-la-Tour  itself,  with  its  monument,  lies 
within  the  French  frontier.  —  The  battle  of  16th  Aug.  was  one  of  the 
bloodiest  fought  during  the  whole  war.  In  the  course  of  the  day  no 
fewer  than  138,000  French  troops  and  476  guns  were  engaged  at  intervals, 
while  the  German  forces  amounted  to  m,000  men  with  222  guns.  The 
French  loss  was  estimated  at  879  officers  and  16,128  men,  and  the  Ger- 
man loss  at  711  officers  and  15,079  rank  and  file. 

To  the  E.  of  Metz  lie  the  Battle  Fields  of  14th  Aug.  and  of  31st  Aug. 
and  Ist  Sept.  1870.  The  former  began  between  three  and  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  and  ended  at  9  p.m.  by  the  French  being  driven  back 
under  the  guns  of  Metz.  The  Germans  have  named  it  the  battle  of 
Colombey-ITouillp  y  as  the  ground  between  these  villages  was  the  principal 
object  of  attack  (see  Map).  The  result  of  the  battle  was  to  cause  a  fatal 
delay  in  the  intended  march  of  the  French  to  Verdun. 

The  battle  of  31st  Aug.  and  1st  Sept.  was  fought  on  the  occasion 


NANCY.  S3,  Bouie.     167 

of  the  first  and  most  deteraiineA  ftttempt  of  Mavshid  Baeniiie  to  break 
.through,  the  Oeman  army  which  had  surrounded  HeUt  since  i^th 
August.  The  chief  object  of  dispute  was  the  small  village  of  Jfoisseville, 
5  M.  from  Metz,  on  the  road  to  Saarlouis.  The  4th  and  6th  Corps  and 
the  guards  of  the  French  took  the  place  about  6  p.m.,  soon  after  the 
beginning  of  the  battle  \  they  lost  it  about  9  p.  m.  and  re-captured  it  at 
10  p.  m.  On  the  following  day  the  Germans  took  the  village  three  times 
and  lost  it  as  often,  but  at  length  about  noon  tbey  succeeded  in  gaining 
final  posaeMiom  of  it.  The  princijMil  German  monnments  rise  to  the  8. 
of  the  village,  and  there  are  several  others  near  Servigny  to  the  X.  of  it, 
and  near  CoXonibey  to  the  S.  The  German  Idss  amounted  to  126  officers 
and  2850  men,  and  the  French  loss  to  141  officers  and  2664  men. 

To  the  27.  of  DCetz,  not  flar  from  the  road  to  ThionviUe,  lies  Woippy^ 
where . Bazaine''s  last  sortie^  on  7th  Oct.,  terminated  in  the  retreat  of  the 
French  after  a  battle  of  nine  hours^  duration.  —  At  the  chateau  of  Fres- 
cati.  2V4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Metz,  on  27th  Oct.,  was  signed  the  capitulation 
of  Hetz,  whereby  the  fortress  with  3  marshals,  60  generals,  6000  other 
officers,  173,000  men  (including  20,000  sick  and  wounded),  53  eagles,  66 
mitrailleuses,  541  field-pieces,  and  800  fortress-guns,  together  with  a  vast 
•quantity  of  other  munitions  of  war,  was  surrendered  to  the  Gennaas. 


From  Mbtz  to  Nancy,  35  M.,  railway  in  21/4-23/4  hrs.  (fares 
5in.  40,4m.,2m.  90 pf.).  —  The  line  ascends  the  picturesque  and 
well-peopled  valley  of  the  Moselle,  which  flows  between  hills  of  mod- 
erate height.  Soon  after  leaving  Metz,  at  the  point  where  the  line 
to  ThionviUe  branches  off  to  the  right,  we  pass  on  the  left  Fort 
St,  Privat,  now  Prinz  Aitgust  v,  Wiirttembergf  and  then  the  chateau 
of  FrescaU,  embosomed  in  trees.  A.  little  farther  on,  the  train  crosses 
the  river  and  reaches  (6  M.)  Ars^sur- Moselle,  A  little  above  the 
village,  and  also  at  Jouy-aux- Arches  on  the  right  bank,  about  51/2  M. 
from  Metz,  are  situated  extensive  remains  of  a  *Boman  Aqueduct 
erected  by  Drusus,  which  was  once  about  60  ft.  in  height  and  8/4  M. 
in  length,  and  conducted  water  from  the  hills  on  the  right  bank  to 
the  Roman  town  of  Dlvodurum,  the  modern  Metz.  At  Ars  there  are 
seven,  and  at  Jouy  eleven  arches  stUl  standing.  8^2  M.  Noveant, 
connected  by  a  suspension-bridge  with  Corny j  the  headquarters  of 
Prince  Frederick  Charles  during  the  siege,  is  the  German  frontier- 
station.  12  M.  Pagny  is  the  French  frontier-station.  171/2  M.  Pont- 
li-Mowson^  a  picturesquely-situated  little  town,  with  11,000  in- 
hab.,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of  Mousson  on  a  hill.  Then 
DietUouardy  Marbach,  and  (30  M.)  Fr(mardy  where  the  Rhine  and 
Mame  Canal  is  crossed,  and  the  line  to  Paris  diverges  to  the  £. 

35  M,  Nancy  {Hotels  de  Paris ^  de  France,  du  Commerce, 
dAngleterrtf  the  last  near  the  station),  the  capital  of  the  D^parte- 
ment  de  la  Meurthe,  formerly  that  of  the  Duchy  of  Lorraine,  with 
73,225  inhabitants,  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  fertile  and  vine-clad 
plain,  not  far  from  the  left  bank  of  the  navigable  Meurthe.  The 
town  contains  broad,  well-buUt  streets,  handsome  pZaccs  adorned 
with  fountains,  and  a  number  of  imposing  buildings.  The  chief  ob- 
jects of  interest  are  the  Oates,  huilt  in  the  stylo  of  triumphal 
arches;  the  Place  DombasU,  the  Cours  Leopold,  and  the  Place 
Stanislas,  which  are  all  embellished  with  statues;   the  Hotel  de 


168    BOUU24.  SAABLOUIS. 

de  VilUf  with  a  oolleotion  of  modem  paintings ;  the  Chapelle  Ronde, 
the  hnrial-church  of  the  dukes ;  and  the  new  church  of  St.  Epvre, 
See  Batdeker's  Paris.        

From  Mbtz  to  Luxbmboueg,  41  M.,  railway  in  1 1/2-2  hrs.  (fares 
5  m.  40,  3  m.  60,  2  m.  BO  pf. ;  express  6  m.  15,  4  m.  35  pf.).  The 
line  describes  a  curve  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  crossing  the 
Moselle.  To  the  left  the  large  Fort  St.  Quentin  (Manstein,  see 
p.  163).  —  5  M.  DevaxU'lea-PorUs  (outside  the  Porte  de  France 
of  Metz);  IIV4  M.  MaizUres;  I38/4  M.  Hagendmgtn;  171/2  M. 
Vtckingen,  —  20Va  M.  ThionviUe  (B6id  Ltfhhvrt ,  8U  Hubert, 
both  mediocre),  ot  Diedenho  fen,  a  small  fortified  town  on  the  Moselle, 
which  was  taken  by  the  Germans  on  24th  Nov.  1870.  [From  Thlon- 
ville  a  branch-line  runs  to  (28  M.)  Teterehen  Qp.  162).}  Then  Oross- 
Hettifigcn,  Bettemburg,  Bereherrij  And(Aiy ^M.?)Lwcembourg(jp.  176), 

24.  From  Saarbrucken  to  Trives  and  Luxembourg. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  178. 

Bailwat  to  TrHet  (55  H.)  in  2Vs  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  10,  5  m.  30,  3  m.  60  pf.) ; 
to  Luxembourg  (87  H.)  in  3Vs-5  hrs.  (fares  11  m.  40,  8  m.  30,  5  m.  50  pf.). 

Saarhrudcen,  see  p.  161.  The  line  follows  the  course  of  the 
8aar,  Picturesque  scenery,  especially  between  Saarbrflcken  and 
Saarlouis,  at  Mettlach,  and  at  Saarburg.  Numerous  manufactories 
are  passed.  2  M.  Burhach ;  4  M.  Louisenihal ;  6M.  VblkUngen ;  10  M. 
B0U8,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Bolchen  and  Courcelles  (p.  162) ; 
I2V2  M.  Ensdorf. 

14  M.  Saarlonis  (*Rlieini8cher  Hof;  Zwei  Hastn),  with  6800 
inhab.,  a  Prussian  fortress,  constructed  in  1680-85  by  Yauban  for 
Louis  XIV.,  was  the  birthplace  of  Marshal  Ney  (p.  165),  the  house 
of  whose  parents  is  indicated  by  a  marble  tablet.  The  town  lies  on 
a  peninsula  formed  by  the  Saar,  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
station  of  Fraulautem.  About  2  M.  to  the  N.  is  WaUerfangen 
(Vaudrefange),  once  a  fortified  place,  with  an  extensive  porcelain- 
manufactory  and  a  park.  —  Diligence  to  Tholey  and  St.  "Wendel, 
see  p.  161. 

17  M.  DilUngcn;  20  M.  Beckingen;  221/2  M.  Fremmersdorf. 
241/2  M.  Merzig  (Trierscher  Hof),  with  a  pointed  basilica  of  the 
12th  century.  About  1  M.  lower  is  a  large  Lunatic  Asylum.  Before 
(29  M.)  Mettlach  (*Zum  Saarstrom)  a  long  tunnel.  The  buildings 
of  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey,  founded  in  the  7th  cent. ,  are 
now  occupied  by  the  extensive  earthenware-factory  of  Villeroy  and 
Boch.  The  ^Musenm^  at  the  factory  (application  for  adm.  at  the 
hotel)  contains  specimens  of  the  very  tasteful  productions  of  the 
works  since  their  establishment  in  1810,  and  also  numerous  pieces 
of  ancient  and  modern  pottery  of  all  kinds.    Fine  park. 

At  Mettlach  the  Saar  makes  a  considerable  circuit,  which  the  line 
avoids  by  the  above-mentioned  tunnel.     The  N.  point  of  the  hill  which 


TREVES.  24.  BwU.     169 

it  penetrates  (IVs  hr.  to  the  K.W.  of  Mettlach,  and  reached  by  a  shady 
path)  is  the  *01ef  (probably  from  clavis^  the  round  tower  which  once  stood 
here  having  formed  the  key  to  this  district),  affording  a  fine  survey  of  the 
two  arms  of  the  valley  of  the  Saar,  separated  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land. 
On  the  latter  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  Montclair ,  destroyed  in  1350  by 
Elector  Baldwin  of  Treves. 

One  mile  W.  of  the  Clef  (path  through  the  wood)  lies  Orseholz 
C'Thiellemanns) ,  from  which  a  carriage-road  leads  to  Weiten,  2V4  M.  to 
the  N.  A  mile  farther  is  the  old  castle  of  Freudenburg^  and  1  M.  beyond 
it  a  finger-post  indicating  the  way  to  Oaitell.  Near  this  village,  on  a  bold 
rock  overhanging  the  8aar,  is  a  chapel  restored  by  Frederick  William  IV., 
in  which  he  deposited  the  bones  of  his  ancestor ,  the  blind  king  John  of 
Bohemia,  who  fell  at  Cr^y  in  1346.  The  cell  hewn  in  the  rock  contains 
some  Roman  antiquities.    The  castellan  lives  in  the  village  below. 

The  line  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Saar.  Near  Saaiburg  the 
chapel  of  CasteU  (see  above)  is  seen  on  a  precipitous  wooded  rock 
on  the  right  bank.   40^2  M.  Beurig  is  the  station  for  — 

Saarbnrg  (Post;  Trierscher  Hof),  picturesquely  situated  in  a 
basin,  and  commanded  by  the  considerable  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Electors  of  Treves.  Pop,  3900.  The  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrence 
was  erected  in  1856.  The  Leuk,  which  here  unites  with  the  Saar, 
forms  a  waterfall,  60  ft.  high,  near  the  'Post'. 

The  line  descends  the  valley  of  the  Saar,  passing  (1.)  Wiltingen, 
(r.)  Scharshof,  and  Ober-Emmel,  celebrated  for  their  wines,  to 
(49  Y2  M.)  Conxy  below  which  it  enters  the  valley  of  the  Moselle. 
Conz  is  the  Roman  Contioncummj  whence  several  imperial  edicts 
were  dated.  A  few  remains  of  the  imperial  villa  mentioned  by  Au- 
sonias  (p.  178)  are  still  recognlsahle  near  the  church.  The  bridge 
over  the  Saar  was  built  in  1782.  Conz  is  also  united  with  Treves 
by  a  special  hranch  line  (5  M. )  passing  the  stations  of  Zewen  and 
Eurert. 

50  M.  Karthausj  the  junction  of  the  Metz  and  Luxembourg  lines 
(pp.  168,  175).  —  The  railway  crosses  the  Moselle  by  a  massive 
stone  bridge,  beyond  which  the  line  to  Treves  turns  to  the  right. 
5372^*  Lowenbfuchen, 

55  M.  Treves.  —  Hotels.  ♦Twbmchek  Hop  (PI.  a;  F,  5);  *Rothb8 
Haus  (PI.  b:  F,  3;  see  p.  170).  —  •Luxbmbtogbk  Hop  (PI.  cj  F,  4),  E.  &  L. 
from  2,  A.  Va,  I>.  2V«,  B.  i  m. :  *Stadt  Vekedio  (PL  d^  E,  5),  E.  and  B. 
2V2,  D.  2  m.;  Post  (PL  e;  E,  4),  opposite  the  post-office. 

Sestanranta.  2kan  Stem  (Fi8cher)y  in  the  market;  Laven^s  AUdeuUehe 
Weinstiibej  opposite  the  church  of  St.  Anthony ;  Kuff,  l^eue-Str.  222  (good 
Moselle  wine)*,  Cit/i  Oermania^  with  garden,  SUinhaui^  and  5««r,  in  the 
Fleisch-Str.  —  *Cafi  BeUevue;  Schneiders  Hof.  Weisshaus,  with  splendid 
view  (comp.  p.  174).  —  Beer :  Miinchener  Kindly  Simeons-Str. ;  Franziskaner, 
Nagel-Str.,  with  garden*,  Gfftschely  at  the  Amphitheatre,  with  view. 

Cabs.  Per  drive  within  the  town,  to  the  station,  amphitheatre,  and 
Zurlauben,  for  1  pers.  50,  2  pers.  60  of.;  each  additional  pers.  26  pf.  more. 
Per  hour  1V«  or  2V2  m. ;  each  addit.  20  min.,  50  or  76  pf.  —  Longer  drives 
according  to  bargain.  —  To  Jgel  (p.  176)  two-horse  carr.  about  6  m. 

Bailway  Station.  The  station  for  all  passenger-trains  is  now  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Moselle,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town  (comp.  PL  H,  2). 

Post  Office  (PI.  22;  E,  4),  Fleisch-Str.  75. 

Steamboat  to  CoblenZy  see  B.  26 ;  to  Bemcastel,  see  p.  178. 

Treves,  Ger.  Trier^  a  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle,  with 
26,200  inhab.,  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  Germany,  belonged  to  the 


170     RouU24,  fREVES.  Porta  Nigra, 

Civitaa  Treverorum ,  or  territory  of  the  Treveri ,  a  tribe  of  Belglc 
Gauls  conquered  B.C.  56  by  Cesar.  It  is  uncertain  whether  there 
was  a  settlement  here  in  pre -Roman  times.  The  Roman  town, 
Colonia  Augusta  Treverorum^  was  probably  founded  by  Olandius, 
and  rapidly  rose  to  importance.  In  the  reign  of  Diocletian  Treves 
became  the  capital  of  Belgiea  Prima,  and  daring  the  4th  oentnry  it 
was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  Roman  Emperors.  The  numerous 
relics  of  that  age  in  the  vicinity  are  among  the  finest  on  this  side 
of  the  Alps.  On  the  introduction  of  Christianity  by  Constantine, 
Agricius  of  Antioch  was  (328)  elected  first  Bishop  of  Treves ,  and 
for  nearly  15  centuries  the  town  continued  to  be  the  residence  of 
the  bishops ,  archbishops ,  and  electors ,  till  Clemens  Wenceslaus, 
the  last  elector,  a  Saxon  prince  (1768-1802 ;  d.  1812) ,  transferred 
his  residence  to  Coblenz  in  1786.  On  10th  Aug.  1794,  the  French 
captured  the  town,  and  in  1815  it  was  ceded  to  Prussia. 

The  surrounding  vine  -  clad  hills  and  wooded  heights ,  and  the 
rich  plain  in  which  the  town  with  its  red  sandstone  walls  and  nu- 
merous towers  is  situated,  are  strikingly  picturesque. 
^Tvevir  metropolis,  urbs  amoBnissima, 
Quae  Bacchnm  recoils,  Baccho  gratissima, 
Da  tois  incolis  vina  fortissima 

Per  dulcorP  Old  Baying, 

The  Mabkbt  lies  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  'Rothes 
Haus'  Hotel  (PI.  b ;  F,  3) ,  situated  here,  a  late-Gothic  building  of 
the  15th  cent.,  was  formerly  the  Rathhaus,  and  bears  the  inscription : 
'Ante  Romam  Treviris  stetit  annis  MCCC',  referring  to  a  mddiaval 
tradition  that  Treves  was  founded  by  Trebeta,  son  of  the  Assyrian 
monarch  Ninus.  An  ancient  Column  in  the  Platz,  supposed  to  date 
from  958,  was  renewed  in  1723,  and  is  surmounted  with  a  cross 
with  the  Lamb  of  God.  The  8t,  Peter«6rt«nn€n,  a  beautiful  Renais- 
sance fountain,  was  erected  by  Elector  John  of  Schdnbeig  in  1595. 

The  Simeons-Strasse,  leading  out  of  the  market-place  towards  the 
N.,  terminates  in  the  *Porta  Nigra  (PI.  21;  F,  1),  also  named  Porta 
Martia,  Bomerthor,  or  Simeonsthorj  a  gate  with  towers  of  defence, 
and  the  finest  of  the  Roman  structures  at  Treves.  This  magnificent 
relic  is  115  ft.  long,  75-93  ft.  high,  and  29  ft.  in  depth.  It  con- 
sists of  three  stories ,  with  two  gateways ,  23  ft.  in  height ,  and  Is 
constructed  of  huge  blocks  of  lias  sandstone,  blackened  with  age  and 
fastened  with  iron  or  copper  braces  instead  of  mortar.  Opinions 
vary  as  to  its  age ,  but  the  fact  of  its  never  having  been  finished 
seems  to  point  to  an  origin  during  the  last  years  of  the  Roman  em- 
pire. The  interior  is  open  to  the  public  daily  in  summer  from  9  to 
11  (entrance  on  the  W.  side),  and  may  be  visited  at  other  times  on 
application  to  the  custodian  of  the  Roman  Palace  (p.  172). 

The  Porta  Xigra  was  a  fortified  city-gate,  the  exterior  of  which  could 
be  closed  by  a  portcullis  and  defended  by  the  two  towers.  If  the  enemy 
succeeded  in  storming  the  gate  he  found  himself  in  the  *propugnaculum'', 
a  small  enclosed  court,  secured  on  the  side  next  the  town  by  a  barricade 
and  exposed  to  a  raking  fire  from  all  parts  of  the  gate-house.    At  both 


Cathedral,  TREVES.  24,  Route.     171 

ends  there  are  aHU  traces  of  the  junction  of  the  gate  with  the  walls,  and 
at  the  W.  end  is  a  doorway,  which  opened  on  the  ramparts.  In  1038-35 
the  E.  tower  was  occupied  by  a  Greek  hermit  named  Simeon,  and  on  his 
death  the  structure  was  converted  into  two  churches,  one  above  the  other. 
In  1817  all  the  later  additions  were  removed  except  the  apse  at  the  E. 
.end,  and  in  1876  the  original  Boman  structure  was  thoroughlv  disclosed. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Market  Place  rises  the  *Cathadral  (Pl.  10;  F, 
G,  3],  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  Germany,  the  nucleus  of  which 
was  a  quadrangular  basilica  erected  by  the  Emp,  Valentinian  J. 
(364-375),  eitlier  for  a  court  of  law  or  as  a  baptistery.  This  build- 
ing, which  was  of  the  same  breadth  as  the  present  edifice,  and 
extended  from  the  second  pillar  from  the  W.  entrance  to  the  E.  apse, 
seems  to  have  been  converted  into  a  Christian  church  during  the 
Boman  period.  In  the  centre  stood  four  huge  granite  columns, 
connected  by  arches,  some  remains  of  which  lie  in  the  cloister-garden 
(see  below).  The  church  was  partly  destroyed  by  the  Franks,  but  was 
restored  in  the  original  style  by  Bishop  Nicetius^  who  held  the  see 
from  532  to  561.  It  was  afterwards  again  deyastated  by  the  Normans, 
and  restored  by  Archbishop  Poppo  (1016-47)  and  his  successors,  who 
increased  its  size  by  an  addition  of  one-third  at  the  W.  end,  in  the 
style  of  the  original  Roman  edifice,  and  also  built  an  apse.  The  E. 
apse  was  added  by  Bishop  Hillin  Tl  152-69).  The  vaulting  of  the 
nave  and  aisles  dates  from  the  loth  cent.;  the  circular,  dome- 
roofed  treasury  was  not  built  till  the  17th.  —  The  various  periods 
at  which  the  structure  has  been  built  are  all  clearly  visible  on  the 
N.  exterior ;  the  Roman  work  consists  of  sandstone  and  bricks,  that 
of  Archbp.  Poppo  is  partly  of  brick  and  partly  of  limestone.  Several 
Roman  arches  and  Franconian  capitals  have  also  been  exposed  to 
view  in  the  interior  by  the  removal  of  the  stucco. 

The  Intbbiob  is  open  the  whole  day  except  from  12  to  2  (verger^s  house 
behind  the  cathedral,  No.  5).  In  the  vaults  repose  26  archbishops  and 
electors.  The  finest  monument  is  that  of  Johann  III.  (von  Meteenhausen^ 
d.  1540),  on  the  wall  of  the  IK.  aisle.  On  the  tombstone  of  Elector  Bichard  III. 
ivon  OreiffenklaUy  d.  1531),  the  successful  opponent  of  Protestantism,  are 
medallions  with  portraits  of  the  elector  on  the  left,  and  his  most  violent 
antagonist,  Franz  von  Sickingen  (p.  270),  on  the  right.  In  the  high-altar 
are  deposited  some  highly-prized  relics,  among  which  are  the  'Holy  Coat' 
without  seam,  exhibited  at  rare  intervals,  and  attracting  vast  crowds  of 
pilgrims.  The  *  Treasury  (adm.  on  Mon.,  Wed..  Frid.  at  11-30,  by  tickets 
procured  from  the  verger  1  m ;  at  other  times  o  m.  for  1-3  pers.)  contains 
several  Romanesque  reliquaries  with  the  heads  of  Matthew  the  Apostle 
and  the  Empress  Helena,  a  nail  from  the  Cross,  relics  of  the  12th  and 
13th  cent,,  a  late  Romanesque  censer,  and  richly -bound  gospels  of  the 
9th-13th  centuries.  —  By  the  steps  leading  to  the  high-altar  are  statues  of 
Constetntine  and  Si.  Helena^  and  on  the  pulpit  reliefs  in  stone  of  1572,  re- 
presenting the  eight  Beatitudes  and  the  Last  Judgment.  Under  the  organ- 
loft  is  a  momaoent  to  Abp.  Baldwin,  brother  of  Emp.  Henry  IV. 

Adjacent  to  the  cathedral ,  and  connected  with  it  by  beautiful 
♦Cioiatcra  of  the  13th  cent,  (accessible  only  from  the  cathedral,  apply 
to  the  verger),  is  the  *Liebfirauenkirche  (PI.  15;  F,  G,  3),  one 
of  the  most  interesting  early-Gothic  churches  in  Germany,  built, 
it  is  supposed,  in  1227-43,  probably  in  imitation  of  the  abbey- 
church  of  Braisne  near  Soissons*  It  is  circular  in  form  (60  yds.  long, 


172    Route  24.  TREVES.  BasUiea, 

49  yds.  broad,  and  124  ft.  high),  intersected  by  a  lofty,  vaulted  cross, 
and  supported  by  12  slender  pillars ,  on  which  the  12  apostles  are 
represented,  probably  painted  in  the  15th  cent,  (visible  simultane- 
ously from  a  slab  of  slate  in  the  pavement ,  about  8  paces  from  the 
entrance).  The  church  contains  numerous  monuments  of  ecclesiasti*- 
cal  dignitaries,  and  the  mummy  of  Bishop  Theodulf,  who  died  in  the 
6th  century.  To  the  right  of  the  high-altar  is  an  altar-piece  (St. 
Sebastian)  ascribed  to  Guide  Reni.  The  sacristy  possesses  an  in- 
teresting old  side-door  and  contains  the  •Monument  of  Johann  Se- 
gensis  (d.  1564),  with  a  portrait.  The  *  Portal  is  richly  decorated 
with  sculptures,  symbolical  of  the  Old  and  New  Testament,  etc., 
dating  from  the  erection  of  the  church.  This  church  also  is  closed 
from  12  to  2;  the  sexton  lives  opposite.  —  The  other  churches  of 
Treves  are  comparatively  uninteresting. 

In  the  S.E.  Quabtbb  there  are  several  interesting  relics  6f  the 
Roman  period. 

The  ♦Basilica  (PI.  9;  G,  4,  5),  built  entirely  of  brick,  prob- 
ably in  the  reign  of  the  Emp.  Constantino,  served  originally  for  the 
administration  of  justice  and  for  commercial  purposes,  like  the 
similar  ancient  Roman  structures  at  Rome  itself  and  elsewhere. 
Early  in  the  middle  ages  it  was  the  seat  of  the  governors  appointed 
by  the  Prankish  sovereigns,  and  in  1197  it  was  made  over  to  the 
bishops.  "When  the  town  became  Prussian,  it  was  used  as  a  barrack, 
but  after  1846  it  was  restored  by  order  of  Frederick  William  IV., 
and  in  1856  consecrated  as  a  Protestant  church.  The  interior,  ter- 
minating in  an  apse  at  the  N.  end ,  is  lighted  by  a  double  row  of 
windows.  The  Basilica  is  225  ft.  long,  100  ft.  wide,  and  98  ft.  high. 

The  N. W.  side  up  to  the  lower  tow  of  windows .  the  apse ,  and  the 
lofty  arch  between  the  nave  and  the  apse  are  all  antique.  The  S. 
facade  and  the  £.  side,  on  the  other  hand,  are  almost  entirely  modern. 
The  entrance  for  the  public  was  at  the  S.  end;  the  two  smaller  entrances 
near  the  apse  were  probably  far  the  use  of  the  judges.  The  interior  was 
richly  decorated  with  painting,  some  relics  of  which  may  be  inspected 
in  the  museum.    Below  the  floor  was  a  hypoeaust,  or  heating-apparatus. 

The  *Boman  Palace  (PI.  24 ;  H ,  6) ,  entered  from  the  Prome- 
nade, and  also  from  the  Exeroler-Platz,  lies  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
town,  and  forms  a  picturesque  group  of  ruins,  part  of  which  is  65  ft. 
high.  In  the  middle  ages  the  building,  which  was  long  incorrectly 
supposed  to  be  a  Roman  bath,  was  used  alternately  as  a  church  and 
as  a  fortress.  The  rubbish  in  the  interior  accumulated  to  such  an 
extent ,  that  one  of  the  windows  was  once  used  as  an  entrance  to 
the  town. 

The  best-preserved  part  of  the  edifice  is  a  RectanffiOar  Roam^  with 
three  apses,  at  the  S.E.  end,  formerly  lighted  by  two  rows  of  arched 
windows,  and  heated  by  channels  for  hot  air,  many  of  which  are  still 
visible.  To  the  right  and  left  of  this  chamber  stood  two  Towees  ,  one 
of  which  is  still  extant  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  ruins  and  of 
the  town  (ascent  by  a  steep  spiral  staircase).  —  At  the  N.W.  end,  where 
the  excavations  are  still  in  progress,  various  circular  and  square  rooms 
and  subterranean  passages  have  been  brought  to  light.  —  The  custodian 
keeps  the  key  of  the  Porta  Nigra  (p.  170). 


Town  Library.  TREVES,  U.  Route.     173 

On  a  rising  ground  about  Vi  ^*  ^  ^^^  ^*  ^^  ^^^  Baths  (comp. 
PI.  H,  7)  is  the  *Ampluth6atre ,  locally  known  as  the  KaakeUer, 
situated  among  vineyards.  This  arena ,  still  in  exceUent  preser- 
vation ,  with  a  diameter  from  N.  to  S.  of  76  yds.,  and  from  £.  to 
W.  of  53  yds. ,  was  capable  of  accommodating  30,000  spectators, 
(That  at  Verona  held  70,000  spectators,  the  Colosseum  at  Rome 
87,000.)  The  E.  half  is  built  into  the  rocky  side  of  the  hill,  while 
the  W.  is  raised  to  the  same  level  by  artificial  means.  At  the  N. 
and  S.  ends  are  gateways ,  each  with  three  openings ,  that  in  the 
centre  leading  to  the  arena,  and  those  at  the  sides  to  the  seats  for 
spectators.  There  are  also  two  entrances  for  the  public 'on  the  W. 
side.  The  dens  for  the  wild  beasts  and  the  chambers  for  the  gla- 
diators are  still  traceable  adjacent  to  the  arena.  The  amphitheatre 
was  probably  built  in  the  reign  of  Trajan  or  Hadrian.  In  306  Gon« 
stantine  here  sullied  his  fame  by  causing  several  thousand  captive 
Franks,  with  their  leaders  Ascarich  and  Ragais,  to  be  torn  to 
pieces  by  wild  beasts;  and  in  313 ,  thousands  of  the  Bructeri  were 
barbarously  sacrificed  for  the  amusement  of  the  people. 

The  Town  Library,  at  the  Gymnasium  (PI.  26;  F,  5;  adm. 
11-12.30),  contains  some  rare  printed  works  and  numerous  valuable 
manuscripts. 

Among  the  printed  books  are  several  ^incunabula'  or  works  of  the 
15th  cent,  (when  the  art  of  printing  still  lay  in  its  cradle,  ''in  cunabulis'), 
including  the  Bible  of  Fust  and  Gutenberg  of  1450,  and  the  Catholicon  of 
1460.  —  One  of  the  most  interesting  HSS.  is  the  Codex  Auretu,  containing 
the  four  Gospels,  presented  by  Ada  (d,  809),  a  reputed  sister  of  Charle- 
magne ,  to  the  Abbey  of  St.  Maximin.  It  is  illuminated  with  allegorical 
paintings,  and  the  binding  is  superbly  adorned  with  jewels  and  a  cameo  of 
uncommon  size,  probably  representing  the  family  of  Gonstantine.  The  ♦(?<>- 
dex  Egherti^  dating  from  about  970,  is  perhaps  the  finest  extant  specimen  of 
the  art  of  illumination  at  that  period.  The  miniatures  combine  the  best 
traditions  of  Carlovingian  art  with  the  new  influences  of  the  classical 
Italian  school.  The  L%b«r  Aitreiu  contains  documents  of  the  convent  of 
Priim,  ranging  from  the  9th  to  the  11th  century,  and  admirably  illustrat- 
ing the  advance  of  the  illuminator's  art.  —  Several  letters  of  Luther,  one 
from  Bliicher  on  the  death  of  Queen  Louisa,  etc.,  are  also  interesting. 
The  Ante- Chamber  contains  portraits  i,of  Electors  of  Treves,  the  Duke  of 
Alva,  Huss,  Sickingen,  and  others. 

The  *FroTiiioial  Mnieum  in  the  same  building  contains  an  in- 
teresting collection  of  Roman  and  mediaeval  antiquities.  It  is  open 
daily  in  summer  from  11  to  1,  on  Wed.  also  3-6,  Sun.  and  Wed. 
free,  at  other  times  50  pf . ;  in  winter  on  Sun.  11-1,  Wed.  2-4, 
free,  at  other  times  75  pf . 

To  TBB  siQHT.  Boom  I.  Mosaic  pavement,  found  at  Oberweis  ^  Torso 
of  Cupid,  found  at  Treves;  Portrait-herma  from  WelschbiUigj  *Tor80  of 
an  Amazon  in  marble,  found  in  the  Thermae  of  Treves  (p.  174).  Ex- 
tensive collection  of  Roman  glass;  shallow  early-Ohristian  vessel  with 
a  representation  of  Abraham  and  Isaac ;  goblet  with  caterpillars  in  high 
relief.  —  Booms  II.  &  III.  contain  sculptures  from  Neumagen  (p.  188),  chiefly 
from  tombs.  In  B.  II. :  Belief,  with  battles  of  Tritons  and  sea-monsters ; 
•Two  galleys  laden  with  wine-casks  (noticeable  the  cleverly-depicted  humor- 
ous expression  of  one  of  the  steersmen).  On  the  walls,  frescoes  from  the 
Basilica  (p.  172),  and  imtations  of  Boman  mosaics  found  at  Treves.  InB.  III.: 
Beliefs  of  captured  warriors,  and  ladies  at  their  toilette ;  Youths  counting 


174    RouU24,  TREVES. 

money;  Statue  of  a  Eoman  peasant,  found  at  Langsur  (p.  175).  At  the 
wall:  Frescoes  of  a  stag  and  a  lynx,  found  at  Treves.  In  the  middle  of  tlie 
room,  *MoBaic  of  the  4th  cent.,  found  at  Treves  in  1844,  representing  the 
Muaaa  inatrueting  artists  and  scholars  (Calliope  instructs  Homer,  Clio 
Cadmus,  etc.),  busts  of  Hesiod,  Ennius,  Cicero,  Virgil,  Henander,  and 
representations  of  the  months  and  seasons.  —  Boon  lY.  Objects  found  in 
a  Roman  burial-place  outside  the  Porta  Nigra;  to  the  right  by  the  window 
is  part  of  the  burial-place  arranged  as  it  was  when  discovered.  The  case  to 
the  left  contains  the  more  valuable  articles.  ^-  Roman  lamps  and  other 
objects  in  clay,  chiefly  from  the  Roman  Baths  (see  below).  —  Objects  of  decor- 
ative art:  enamel;  ivory  articles;  Italian  majolica*,  collection  of  pottery 
from  Nassau  and  Siegburg,  Venetian  and  Bohemian  glass,  etc.  Early-Ger- 
man pictures  \  Greek  and  Egyptian  antiquities ;  a  mummy. 

To  THE  LEFT.  Bones  of  the  prehistoric  period,  with  traces  of  human 
workmanship,  found  in  the  Buchenloch,  near  Gerolstein.  Etruscan  vessels 
and  other  objects  from  pre-Roman  graves,  most  of  them  from  the  banks 
of  the  Saar  and  the  Nahe.  Christian  inscriptions  of  the  3rd  and  4th  cent, 
from  the  churches  of  SS.  Matthew,  Haximin,  and  Paulin.  Sarcophagus, 
with  relief  of  Koah^s  Ark.  Roman  coins  and  moulds  for  false  coins.  Col- 
lection of  the  coins  of  the  Electorate  of  Treves. 

In  the  suburb  of  8U  Bairbeln,  adjoining  the  new  Kaiser-Struse 
(PI.  C,D,7),  are  the  Aoman  BfttliB,  an  imposing  Btmctnre,  660  ft.  in 
length,  recently  excavated.  Adm.  2b  pf.  The  principal  facade  wag 
turned  towards  the  N.  The  masonry  above  the  level  of  the  ground 
has  almost  entirely  disappeared,  thoagh  at  the  beginning  of  the 
17th  cent,  it  was  preserved  up  to  the  second  story.  The  position  of 
the  cold  baths  (frigidajrium)j  the  tepidarium  and  the  ealdarium,  the 
large  basin  of  warm  water,  the  heating  apparatus,  and  other  parts  of 
the  building  can  still  be  traced. 

Adjacent  is  the  Moselle  Bridge  (PI.  B,  7),  with  eight  arches, 
some  of  the  buttresses  of  which  are  of  Roman  origin.  The  second 
and  seventh  buttresses  from  the  town-side  were  blown  up  by  the 
French  in  1689,  and  restored  in  1729.  The  bridge  (620  ft.  long)  has 
recently  been  skilfully  widened  and  levelled. — The  Railway  Station 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle  is  now  used  for  goods  traffic  only. 

The  best  survey  of  the  town  and  its  beautiful  environs  is  ob- 
tained from  the  garden-restaurant  about  8/4  M.  behind  the  Amphi- 
theatre (comp.  173)  and  from  the  *MarienBaiile»  a  tower  with  a 
colossal  statue  of  the  Virgin,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river  op- 
posite Treves,  between  the  bridge  and  the  village  of  PaUt«n  (PI.  A,  1 ; 
p.  186),  and  about  II/2M.  from  the  former.  The  traveller  should 
return  through  the  entrance  to  the  Pallien-Thalj  a  picturesque 
glimpse  of  which  is  obtained  through  the  arch  of  a  bridge  built  by 
Napoleon.  A  little  below  the  ferry  which  connects  Pallien  with 
Zurlauben  (Gaf^-Restaurant  Mettlach)  on  the  opposite  bank,  on 
the  hill,  lie  the  SeUevue^  Schneidera-Hof  and  Weitshaus  restaurants, 
with  pretty  park  and  views.  A  little  higher  up  is  the  Kockelsberg 
(Restaurant),  commanding  an  admirable  view.  Farther  down  the 
stream  is  a  second  ferry. 

About  s/4  ^'  to  the  S.  of  Treves  is  situated  the  venerable  Church  of 
Bt.  Katthew,  dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  i2th  cent.,  with  alter- 
ations made  in  the  16th  and  18th  cent.,  and  said  to  contain  the  sarco- 
phagus of  the  Evangelist  (a  favourite  resort  of  pilgrims).  —  About  >/<  H.  to 


}  JMtiktt  ffiWifiti 


174    Route  24. 


15 


IJfn^imC G6 


4  fajinfi  ... 


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CJJ3 
JIl3, 


llFoftaau.  E4, 

ntiuMi^r       XTS. 

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J  Jbfiiftfir 

6  £«ffc  de  fnuJirfjue 

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11      .      S*Jta7i 


b.:j, 

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^3. 


13      .       StMuJiH 

IS  Temple  tJTraelilr 
Ifi  Tempie  prstfstnijl 

17    Jfl-Frfff 

IB  SSpitnl  avil 

^  U.dff/j  mmjsfm  lUrpile  B 
21  Side  vUleJiunep  Fesmisre 
33  Maimn  fUJ-f^x 


B.3. 
B,3, 
B,2. 

B.3. 
.2.3. 
B.3. 


^Mintim.d^Ia.piin(Tssr    .  A,^ 

2S  Pa.vt^s  ft  Tfldgrapkrs    jLB.^. 
Effi  Fri£tiiisetd^.d£mmdidiP  C^-i. 


lit  JSXtaiSVDH. 


£CHT£RNAGH.  U.  RouU.     175 

the  N.  of  the  town  is  St.  PauUn,  with  an  interesting  rococo  church  of 
ttie  early  part  of  the  18th  cent.,  richly  adorned  with  frescoes.  In  the 
vicinity  is  a  spot  marked  by  a  Cross  where  some  of  the  early  Ghristifins 
suffered  martyrdom  at  the  hands  of  the  Romans.  INear  it  is  the  vener- 
able Abbey  of  8t.  Maximin,,  now  a  barrack  (PI.  H,  1). 


The  LuxBMBOu&o  Lins  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle  as 
far  as  Karthaus.  —  5672  M.  L^wenhfiXcken, 

60  M.  KafikauSy  the  junction  of  the  Metz  and  Luxembourg 
line  (p.  168).  Opposite  the  station  is  an  old  Carthusian  convent, 
still  partly  preserved,  with  the  ruins  of  a  church.  The  train  now 
crosses  the  Moselle. 

62  M.  Igel^  an  inconsiderable  "village ,  containing  one  of  the 
most  interesting  Roman  relics  to  the  N.  of  the  Alps,  the  celebrated 
*Igel  JEoniime^ty  popularly  called  the  ^Heidenthurm^  (heathens' 
tower) ,  and  visible  from  the  railway.  The  monument  is  a  square 
saadstone  column,  75  ft.  in  height,  and  I6V3  ^^*  broad  at  the  base, 
and  was  erected  as  a  funeral  monument  by  the  rich  mercantile 
£amily  of  Secundlni)  probably  in  the  latter  half  of  the  third  cent, 
after  Christ.  It  bears  appropriate  inscriptions,  some  of  which  are 
now  illegible ,  and  also  several  reliefs  of  scenes  of  daily  life  and 
mythological  representations,  such  asHylasand  the  Nymphs,  Achilles 
being  bathed  in  the  Styx,  Mars  and  Rhea  Sylvia,  the  Apotheosis 
of  Hercules,  Perseus  and  Andromeda,  and  Hercules  with  the  apples 
of  the  Hesperldes.  From  the  churoh  on  the  hill  behind  the  mon- 
ument a  fine  view  is  enjoyed  of  the  country  around.  Above  Tgel, 
whichi  may  also  be  visited  from  Wasserlieach  (p.  177),  are  extensive 
gypsum-quarries. 

Near  (64^2  M.)  WoMerhillig  the  line  crosses  the  frontier  of. 
Luxembourg ;  scenery  picturesque ;  the  Sauer  (Sure)  here  unites 
with  the  MoseUe,  after  having  for  some  distance  formed  the  bound- 
ary between  Prussia  and  Luxembourg.  Near  its  mouth  is  the  priory 
otLangsur. 

Fboh  Wabsebbillio  to  Diekibgh,  30  M.,  railway  in  i'/i-^Vi  hrs. 
(fares  4  fr.,  2  fr.  36,  1  fr.  35  c.)-  The  line  follows  the  pretty  valley  of  the 
SwSy  but  at  some  distance  from  the  river.  —  i^/2  M.  Bom;  8  M.  Rospori. 

13  H.  Echt«nutch  CHinah,  also  ^pen8ion%  Kill)^  a  small  town,  with  a 
well-preserved  Benedictine  abbey,  which  maintained  its  independence  down 
to  1801.  The  abbey-church  of  *St.  WiUibrord  is  a  Romanesque  edifice  of 
1017'31,  skilfully  restored  since  1861.  The  walls  of  the  nave  are  support- 
ed alternately  by  pillars  and  columns ,  as  in  St.  Kichaers  at  Hildesheim 
and  other  churches  of  Lower  Saxony.  The  proportions  of  the  interior  are 
very  light  and  elegant,  and  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are  beautifully  exe- 
cuted. Echternaeh  is  noted  for  the  singular  ^Leaping  Procession\  which 
takes  place  every  Whit-Tnesday  and  is  participated  in  by  12-15,000  per- 
sons from  the  country  round.  Picturesque  walk  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Sure,  with  view  of  the  town  and  its  pretty  environs. 

17 H.  Solltndorf,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sure:  24  M.  Reisdorf;  27  M. 
B^iUndorf. 

dO  M.  Siekirch  {'^Hdtel  des  Ardennes  \  H6tel  de  VEurope),  a  small  town 
prettily  situated  on  the  Sure.  Pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  hence  to  the 
ruin  of  Brandenburg^  to  Bursekeid^  and  to  Yianden  (HStel  de  Luxembourg)^ 
a  small  and  ancient  town,  8  M.  to  the  N.,  in  the  valley  of  the  Owr,  a 


176    Route  2d.  LUXEMBOURG. 

tributary  of  the  Sure.    Vianden  is   commanded  by  an   imposing  ruined 

castle  of  the  Counts  of  ITassau  •,  the  elegant  decagonal  chapel  was  restored 

in  1849.    The  church  contains  a  few  tombstones  of  the  l5-16th  centuries. 

From  Diekirch  to  Etitlbriick  (p.  177),  Si/s  M.,  railway  in  16-20  minutes. 

Near  (65  M.)  Mertert  the  train  quits  the  Moselle  and  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Sire.  To  the  right  Mantemaeh,,  with  a  large  paper- 
manufactory.  70  M.  Weeker;  74  M.  Roodt;  79  M.  Oetringen.  The 
train  then  crosses  the  Pulvermuhlenthal  by  a  viaduct  275  yds.  long 
and  100  ft.  high.  The  station  of  Luxembourg,  situated  on  the  right 
side  of  the  Petrusthal,  is  connected  with  the  town  by  a  handsome 
viaduct  (tramway  to  the  Neu-Thor  20c;  omnibus  to  the  hotels  1  fr.). 

87  M.  Luxembourg.  —  Hotels.  *Hotel  Brassxus,  at  the  comer  of  the 
Rue  de  TArsenal  and  the  Rue  Aldringer;  Hot.  de  Cologne,  Hot.  de 
TEuBOPE,  both  well  spoken  of*,  Hot.  de  Luxembourg.  —  *Faber''s  Restaurant. 

OtkfH,    Jtdlien;  MettUr;  Cafi  de  la  Place;  etc.  Comp.  the  Plan. 

Photographs  at  BrUeVe  book-shop. 

Ltixem&otiry,  formerly  Lutxetburg^  at  one  time  a  fortress  of  the 
German  Confederation,  a  town  with  16,700  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of 
the  grand-duchy  of  Luxemburg,  which  is  united  to  Holland  by  a 
personal  union.  The  situation  of  the  town  is  peculiar  and  pictur- 
esque. The  Oberttadtj  or  upper  part,  is  perched  upon  a  rocky  table- 
land, which  is  bounded  on  three  sides  by  abrupt  precipices,  200  ft. 
in  height.  At  the  foot  of  these  flow  the  Petrutbaeh  and  the  Alxettey 
which  are  bounded  by  equally  precipitous  rocks  on  the  opposite 
bank.  In  this  narrow  ravine  lie  the  busy  Unterstddte  or  lower 
portions  of  the  town,  consisting  of  Pfaffenthal,  the  N.,  Clausen,  the 
E.,  and  Orund,  the  S.  suburb,  separated  by  a  rocky  ridge  in  the 
valley  of  the  Alzette.  The  view  of  the  town  with  its  variety  of 
mountain  and  valley,  gardens  and  rocks,  military  edifices  and 
groups  of  trees,  obtained  from  the  Treves  road,  is  singularly  strik- 
ing, and  Is  enhanced  by  the  huge  viaducts  of  the  railway  and  the 
road  to  the  station. 

The  fortifications,  which  were  partly  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock, 
were  condemned  to  demolition  by  the  Treaty  of  London  in  1867, 
and  the  glacis  has  now  been  converted  into  a  public  park,  command- 
ing an  admirable  view.  The  construction  of  the  works  gradually 
progressed  during  500  years  under  various  possessors,  —  Henry  IV., 
Count  of  Luxembourg,  afterwards  German  £mp.  as  Henry  YII. 
(d.  1312),  his  son  John,  the  blind  king  of  Bohemia  (killed  at  Crtfcy, 
1346),  the  Burgundians,  the  Spaniards,  the  French  (whose  cele- 
brated engineer  Vauban  constructed  a  great  part  of  the  fortress), 
the  Austrians,  the  French  again,  and  finally  the  German  Con- 
federation, by  whom  it  was  evacuated  in  1866. 

Apart  from  its  curious  situation  and  pretty  environs,  Luxembourg 
oflfers  little  to  detain  the  traveller.  The  old  Hdtel  de  ViUe  in  the 
vegetable  market  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  Roman  glass, 
bronzes,  and  other  antiquities,  found  chiefly  in  the  Roman  camp 
at  Dahlheim ;  also  Franconian  and  later  antiquities.    —    A  small 


N£NNIG.  24.  BouU,     177 

collection  of  pictures  was  bequeathed  to  the  town  in  1855  by  M.  J. 
P.  Pescatore,  and  is  always  open  (PI.  21 ;  fee).  —  A  Monument 
of  WiUem  III,  king  of  the  Netherlands)  was  anveiled  in  1884.  — 
Of  the  magnificent  castle  of  the  Spanish  Governor  Count  Mansfeld 
(1545-1604),  in  the  suburb  of  Clausen  (PI.  D,  1, 2),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Alzette  (to  the  N.W.),  no  vestige  is  left,  except  a  small 
portion  of  the  wall  and  two  gateways,  into  which  several  interesting 
Boman  sculptures  are  built.  Adjacent  is  the  Park-Hoht,  a  fine  point 
of  view. 

Pbom  Ldxbmbodso  to  Tbois  Vibbqbb  (Pepinster,  Liiffe),  43  M.,  railway 
in  21/4-3  bra.  (fares  5  m.  60,  3  m.  70,  2  m.  40  pf.).  —  The  line  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Alzette.  2V4  M.  Dwmeldange;  41/2  M.  Wolferdangt;  V/2  M. 
Lorentzweiler ;  9  M.  Lintgen. 

il  M.  Hersoh  (Petite  Croix  d'Or).  at  the  confluence  of  the  Eisch, 
Mamer,  and  Alzette,  the  valleys  of  which  afford  pleasant  excursions.  To 
the  W.  are  the  ch&teaa  of  HolUnfeU  and  the  ruined  convent  of  Marien- 
thal  in  the  valley  of  the  Eisch,  and  the  handsome  ch&teau  of  BehffnfeU 
in  the  valley  of  the  Mamer;  to  the  £.  lie  the  chateau  and  park  of  J/ey- 
semburg,  the  property  of  Prince  Arenherg. 

14  M.  KrueMen,  whence  a  branch-railway  leads  to  the  picturesquely- 
situated  little  town  of  (10  M.)  La  Rochette.  16  H.  Coknar-Berg,  with  an 
old  chftteau  of  the  Counts  of  Nassau,  now  royal  property,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Alzette  and  Attert. 

18Va  M.  Ettelbriiok,  a  small  town,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Warcke  and  the  Alzette.  Fine  view  from  Uie  Herrenberg,  Branch- 
railway  to  Diekirehy  see  p.  176. 

23  M.  MiehelaUf  whence  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  Q/t  hr.)  imposing 
ruins  of  the  castle  of  Bwtcheid ,  below  which  is  a  tunnel.  The  finest 
scenery  on  the.  line  is  at  this  point.  —  25V3  M.  Oo^eUmUMe ,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Wolz  and  the  Sure  (p.  173).  ^  From  (28  M.)  Kautenbaeh^ 
at  the  confluence  of  the  WUz  and  the  Wolz,  a  branch-line  runs  to  (6  M.) 
WiltM.  —  31  Vs  M.  WihcerwOU;  to  the  right  is  the  ruined  castle  of  acMe- 
Jmrg.  —  38  M.  Clervaux  (Ger.  Clerf),  a  picturesquely-situated  place  (H5tel 
Koner)  to  the  E.  of  the  line,  with  an  old  castle,  visible  before  and  after 
the  passage  of  the  tunnel,  but  not  from  the  station.  The  castle  was  for- 
merly in  the  possession  of  the  Seigneurs  de  Lannoy,  the  most  famous  of 
whom  was  Charles  V.>  general,  Charles  de  Lannoy,  the  conqueror  of 
Francis  I.  at  the  battle  of  Favia.  The  interior  has  been  modernised.  — 
40  M.  MauluemUhle. 

43  H.  Trots  Vierges,  Ger.  Ul/lingen,  the  frontier-station  of  Luxembourg. 
—  Hence  to  Stavelot,  Spa,  Li^ge,  etc.,  see  Baedeker^e  Belgium  and  Holland, 

From  Luxembourg  to  ThionvUle  and  MetMy  see  p.  168. 

From  Luxembourg  to  Bemieh  (Nennig),  see  p.  178. 

From  Tb&yes  to  Thiowvillb,  431/2  M.,  railway  in  1^/4  hr. 
(fares  5m.  80,  4m. 20,  2m.80pf.).  —  The  line,  a  prolongation  of 
that  described  in  R.  25,  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  above 
Treves.  I1/2  M.  Lowenbriieken.  5  M.  Karihaua,  the  junction  of 
the  Saarbriicken  line  (p.  169).  Below  the  bridge  at  Oonz  (p.  169) 
the  train  crosses  the  Soar,  affording  a  view  of  the  pretty  valley  of 
that  stream.  8  M.  Waaserlieach,  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Igel  (p.  175); 
13  M.  Wellen.  Near  (15  M.)  Nittel  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel. 
18  M.  Winchringen]  23  M.  Palzem. 

25  M.  Hennig  (Zur  Bomiachen  Villa) ;  the  station  is  1  M.  from 
the  village,  in  which  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  villa,  excavated 
In  1852,   containing  a  remarkably  line  *  Mosaic  Pavement^  49  ft. 

Baxdeksk's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  12 


1 78     Route  25,  MOSELLE.  The  MoseUe  from 

long  and  S3  ft.  broad.  It  is  nearly  as  large  as  the  Mosaic  of  the 
Athletes  in  the  Lateran  at  Rome,  and  perhaps  surpasses  that 
celebrated  work  in  artistic  execution.  The  principal  scene  repre- 
sents a  combat  of  gladiators,  and  is  surrounded  by  seven  medall- 
ions with  animals,  fencers,  and  musicians. 

Keiir  llennig,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Hoselle,  lies  the  little  Dutch 
town  of  Bemichj  connected  with  Luxemhourg  by  a  branch  railway  (IGVs  M. 
in  1^4  br,).  Mondor/  (6  M.)?  tbe  tbird  station  on  this  line,  possesses  warm 
springs  (77'  P.),  strengly  nitrogenous,  and  effleacioas  in  scrofula,  and 
nervous  and  broncbial  affections.  —  Luxembourg,  see  p.  176. 

29  M.  Perl  (Greiveldinger),  the  first  place  in  Lorraine.  32  M. 
Sierck  (*Hdtel  de  Luxembourg),  a  small  and  ancient  town  with 
1300  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mo- 
selle, and  commanded  by  the  conspicuous  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Dukes  of  Lorraine.  About  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Schloss  Mensherg, 
popularly  known  as  Schloas  Marlborough^  from  its  occupation  by  the 
great  British  general.    36  M.  Mallingen ;  38^2  M.  Konigsmachem. 

431/2  M.  Thionville,  see  p.  168. 

26.  The  Moselle  firom  Coblenz  to  Treves. 

Railway  (6972  M.)  in  2V4-8V4  hrs.  (fares  9  m.,  6  m.  80,  4  m.  50  pf.  s  ex- 
press, 10  m.  10,  7  m.  60,  or  5  m.  90  pf.).  The  trains  start  from  tbe  'Mosel- 
bahnbor  (p.  93).  —  View  to  tbe  left. 

Stbamboat  (119  M.)  four  times  weekly  in  June  and  July,  daily  in 
August  and  September  (fares  6  m..  4  m.).  Tbe  steamers  ascend  from  Oob- 
lenz  to  Treves  in  IV2  day,  spending  the  nigbt  at  Trarhach  and  reacbing 
tbeir  destination  about  3  p.m.  on  the  second  day.  The  descent  from  Treves 
to  Coblenz  occupies  11-12  hrs.  A  saloon  steamer  starts  from  Coblens  on 
Hon.  and  Tburs.,  from  Trarbach  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  for  tbe  ascending 
voyage,  and  returns  from  Treves  on  Wed.  and  Sat.  -,  fares,  ascending  7  m. 
50  pf.  or  6  m.,  descending  10  m.  or  6  m.  60  pf.  The  river  is  sometimes  so 
low  that  tbe  steamboats  have  to  cease  running.  Restaurants  on  board  tbe 
steamers*,  table  d'hote  atl  p.m.,  3  m.  —  Looal  Steamboats:  between  Cob- 
lenz and  Coehem  daily  in  summer,  except  Friday,  leaving  Goblens  at  1  p.m. 
and  Cocbem  at  5  a.m.  (1  m.  80, 1  m.  20  pf.);  between  Semcastel  and  Trives 
daily,  except  Tburs..  leaving  Bemcastel  at  4  a.m.  and  Treves  at  3  p.m. 
(fares  1  m.  SD,  1  m.  20  pf.).  —  Tbe  steamboat-pier  at  Coblenz  lies  between 
tbe  bridges  over  the  Moselle  (PI.  A,  2),  and  is  reached  by  descending  to 
tbe  left  of  tbe  approach  to  tbe  old  bridge  and  passing  through  the  gateway. 

The  *YaUey  of  the  Hoaelle  is  not  unworthy  of  comparison  with  that  of 
the  Rhine.  The  scenery  is  remarkably  picturesque  at  places,  tbe  wooded 
And  vine -clad  hills  present  a  great  variety  of  form,  and  the  valley  is 
enlivened  with  smiling  villages  and  ruined  castles.  Tbe  finest  portion  is 
between  Coblenz  and  a  point  a  little  above  Bemcastel.  Tbe  prevailing 
stillness  affords  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  Rhine. 
Charming  excursions  may  be  made  in  the  wooded  lateral  valleys,  the 
beauties  of  which  are  often  enhanced  by  picturesque  ruins,  and  magni- 
ficent views  are  afforded  by  tbe  tops  of  numerous  bills.  The  region 
watered  by  tbe  Hoselle  is  also  rich  in  political  and  historical  associations, 
extending  back  to  the  time  of  the  Romans ;  and  a  Roman  poet,  Decius  M. 
AvAoniw  (circa  309-392),  has  celebrated  the  praises  of  this  river  in  a  poem 
entitled  'Mosella\  The  Moselle  wines  have  long  been  famous  for  their 
delicate  bouquet  (see  p.  xxiii).  The  pedestrian  will  find  the  valley  admir- 
ably adapted  for  a  walking-tour,  which  is  greatly  facilitated  by  numerous 
fairly-comfortable  though  small  and  unpretending  inns.  The  letters  R.B. 
and  L.B.  denote  the  right  and  left  banks  with  reference  to  the  traveller 
descending  the  river. 


x^^^ 


CohUnz  to  Treves,         WINNINGEN.  26.  Houtt.     179 

The  train  skirts  the  base  of  the  Karthause  (p.  98),  and  aboTe 
Moaelweis  (•Rosschen,  with  ^pens.*)  crosses  the  Moselle  by  a  hand- 
some iron  bridge  with  three  spans  of  213  ft.  each. 

2*/2  M.  QuU  (steamb.  stat.;  Zillien),  a  prettily-situated  village, 
much  frequented  by  the  Coblenzers  when  the  cherry-trees  are  in 
'blossom.  The  train  traverses  the  orchard-like  district  of  Giils,  skirt- 
ing the  vine-clad  hills,  and  passes  Lay,  a  village  on  the  right  bank. 

5 M.Winningen (steamb.  stat.;  *8chwan;  *Adler;  Anker;  Hof- 
6aiwf),  a  market-town  with  1900inhab.,  once  belonging  to  the 
county  of  Sponheim,  and  hence  forming,  like  several  other  places 
on  the  Moselle  (Enkirch,  Trarbach,  etc.),  a  Protestant  'enclave'  in 
the  midst  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Electorate  of  Treves. 

Beautifal  walk  past  the  DUielberger  Hof  (Inn)  to  the  (V2  hr.)  Blumilay 
and  the  (i/t  hr.)  Roiht  Lay,  two  fine  points  of  view.  —  On  the  right  bank 
of  the  Moselle  above  Winningen  opens  the  Conderthal ,  with  a  mineral 
spring,  a  pleasant  walk  through  which  brings  as  in  I'/z  hr.  to  the  KUh- 
top/  Cp.  98  •,  refreshments  at  the  Renutecker  Hof^  a  forester's  house). 

Farther  up  the  river  the  left  bank  consists  of  lofty  and  precipi- 
tous rooks,  called  the  y^vMiingtf  and  Cohemtr  Ulen ,  every 
available  spot  on  which  is  planted  with  vines,  producing  the  best- 
flavoured  wine  of  the  Lower  Moselle.  —  On  the  opposite  (r.)  bank 
lies  Dieblidi  (Ndrtershauser),  with  a  handsome  church. 

L.B.  (9V2M.)  Oobem  (steamb.  stat. ;  *8imoni8)j  commanded  by 
two  castles.  The  railway-station  lies  above  Cobern,  on  the  Gondorf 
road.  Near  it  is  a  large  Roman  stone  sarcophagus,  one  of  several 
found  in  this  neighbourhood  in  1878  during  the  construction  of  the 
railway.  A  steep  footpath  ascends  through  the  vineyards  (the  path 
with  the  pilgrimage-stations  is  longer,  but  easier)  to  the  picturesque 
Niederburgy  once  the  seat  of  the  knights  of  Cobern,  the  last  of  whom 
was  executed  at  Coblenz  in  1536.  Higher  up  is  situated  the  Ober- 
or  Altenburg,  within  which  is  the  interesting  *Chapel  ofSi.  Matthias 
(key  in  the  village),  a  hexagonal  edifice  in  the  late-Romanesque 
style,  begun  in  1230,  and  measuring  53  ft.  from  angle  to  angle. 
The  central  portion  rises  above  the  rest,  and  is  supported  by  six 
columns.  The  very  elaborate  decorations  are  executed  in  a  masterly 
style ,  and  the  acoustic  properties  of  the  chapel  are  excellent.  It 
was  restored  by  Frederick  William  IV.  Fine  view  of  the  valley. 

Farther  up,  on  the  same  (1.)  bank,  lies  Qondorf  (^Haupt),  with 
the  Tempelhofj  a  Gothic  castle,  recently  restored,  and  an  old 
electoral  chateau,  partly  destroyed,  and  now  used  as  a  parsonage. 

On  the  opposite  bank  lie  ifiederfell  (Fassbender)  and  Kiihr^ 
The  church  at  Niederfell  contains  the  altars  formerly  in  the 
iibbey  of  MarUnroih ,  3  M.  from  the  river ,  which  was  destroyed 
by  the  peasants  in  1794. 

IO72  M.  Lehmen  (steamb.  stat.),  with  a  modem  castellated 
chiteau.    The  river  is  bordered  here  with  precipitous  crags. 

R.B.  Oberfell.  Above  (13  M.)  Katenes  the  river  flows  through  a 
narrow  gorge,  in  which  are  several  mills.  . 

12* 


180    RouU25.  MOSELKERN.  The  MoseUe  from 

R.B.  Aiken  (steamb.  sUt. ;  Comes,  unpretending),  an  old  town 
with  medisBval  houseB  and  foitiflcations,  now  comes  suddenly  into 
yiew.  On  the  hill  above  it  rise  the  towers  of  the  old  castle  of  Thuron, 
or  Thurant,  built  by  Count  Palatine  Heinrich  (p.  93)  about  1200,  and 
a  frequent  object  of  dispute  between  the  Counts  Palatine  and  the 
Electors  of  Cologne  and  Treves.  It  was  besieged  by  the  two  Arch- 
bishops in  1246-48,  when  600,000  gallons  of  wine  are  said  to  have 
been  consumed  by  the  assailants.  The  chroniclers  also  relate  that 
the  townspeople,  discovering  that  the  governor  meditated  a  trea- 
cherous surrender,  shot  him  from  a  catapult  across  the  valley  into 
the  enemy's  camp,  where  he  arrived  without  scath !  The  chapel  on 
the  Bleidenherg^  to  the  N.,  is  a  memorial  of  the  fact,  and  of  the 
governor's  gratitude  for  his  miraculous  escape.  —  14  M.  Loef, 

R.B.  Brodenbach  (steamb.  stat. ;  *Po8t),  pleasantly  situated  at 
the  base  of  a  lofty  wooded  hill. 

Just  above  Brodenbach  is  the  mouth  of  a  narrow  ravine,  which  ex- 
pands about  Vs  ^«  fvom  the  river  and  contains  a  number  of  mills.  Near 
the  first  of  these  a  footpath  diverges  to  the  left  between  two  rocks  and  leads 
past  a  (3  min.)  point  of  view  to  the  (Vz  hr.)  *£hre]ibarff,  the  finest  ruin  on 
the  Moselle,  situated  on  an  isolated  peak.  A  vaulted,  winding  carriage-way 
leads  to  the  foot  of  the  two  towers,  which  command  a  beautiful  panorama 
(unpleasant  stair).  The  knights  of  Ehrenburg  waged  frequent  feuds  with 
the  town  of  Coblenz.  The  castle  now  belongs  to  the  Countess  von  Kiel- 
mannaegge  (p.  203).  —  From  the  Ehrenburg  to  Boppard^  Q'/s  hrs.;  comp. 
p.  107. 

An  overhanging  cliff  is  now  passed  on  the  left  bank  (^Hattonis 
Porta! )^  beyond  which  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  expands. 

16  M.  Hatzenport  (steamb.  stat.)  and  Boea  ('Heidger,  mode- 
rate), two  long  contiguous  villages,  above  which  rises  an  old 
church.    The  railway-station  is  3/^  M,  above  Hatzenport. 

About  3  M.  inland  (diligence  from  Hatzenport  twice  daily  in  1  hr.) 
lies  Httnster-Haifeld  (*Sonne),  a  small  and  ancient  town,  ft'om  the  6th 
cent,  onwards  the  chief  place  in  the  Meginovelty  or  Megingau^  which  ex- 
tends hence  to  the  Rhine.  The  conspicuous  *  Churchy  formerly  belonging 
to  an  abbey,  is  the  successor  of  a  basilica  of  St.  Martin,  which  existed 
here  as  early  as  633.  The  front  with  its  two  round  towers,  resembling  a 
fortress,  and  a  curious  elevated  chapel  in  the  interior,  perhaps  date  from 
the  10th  cent,  (or  the  12th?);  the  choir  and  choir-chapels  are  in  the  tran- 
sition-style of  1225-30  \  while  the  nave,  in  the  developed  Gothic  style,  was 
erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century.  The  church  contains  a  statue 
of  the  Virgin  (about  1350),  a  Giborium  of  about  1450,  and  the  tomb  of 
Kuno  von  Eltz  (d.  1536)  and  his  wife  (d.  1531).  "View  from  the  towers. 
—  From  Miinster-Maifeld  to  (3  M.)  Schloss  Eltz,  see  below ;  carr.  5  m. 

R.B.  Burden  (steamb.  stat.;  *Kaiserswerth,  plain),  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Beyhachthal,  Opposite  rises  the  massive  tower  of  Bischofstein, 
an  electoral  castle  erected  in  1270.  —  In  the  Beybachthal,  7  M. 
farther  up,  is  the  ruin  of  Waldeck, 

19 M.  Koflelkem (*Dei8s,  moderate;  ZwrBurgELtz,  well  spoken 
of),  at  the  mouth  of  the  El%. 

In  the  narrow,  tortuous  valley  of  the  Elz,  4  M.  above  Moselkem,  lies 
Schloss  Eltz,  which  may  also  be  reached  from  Miinster-Maifeld  (see  above) 
via  Wiertchem  in  1  hr.,  or  from  Hatzenport  (see  above)  on  foot  vi&  Lasserg 
in  13/4  hr.,  or  from  Miiden  (see  below)  in  1  hr.  A  visit  to  Schloss  Eltz  also 
forms  a  pleasant  excursion  for  one  day  from  Coblenz.  —   The  Footpath 


Cohlen%  to  Trhjes.  COOHEM.  25.  Route.     181 

ntoic  XosELKEBN  pMSBS  the  church  and  aaeends  the  left  bank  of  the  £1k, 
crossing  to  the  right  bank  a  little  on  this  side  of  the  second  mill.  Beyond 
the  mill  it  skirts  the  slope  of  the  hill,  traverses  meadows  for  a  short  dis- 
tance, and  then  ascends  into  the  wood,  through  which  it  leads  up  and 
down  hill  to  the  castle.    Milk  may  be  procured  at  the  last  mill. 

*BohloM  XltB,  an  ancient  residence  of  the  Counts  of  Eltz  (p.  126),  is 
most  picturesquely  situated  upon  a  lofty  rock,  surrounded  by  wooded 
hills.  The  different  parts  of  the  chateau  date  from  the  12th-16th  cent., 
and  have  been  to  a  great  extent  restored.  The  rooms  are  furnished  in 
the  styles  of  different  centuries,  and  are  adorned  with  family- portraits, 
armour,  and  weapons.  In  the  Bittersaal  (knights'  hall)  is  a  visitors* 
book,  which  contains  the  autograph  of  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Admission 
on  written  application,  Sundays  and  holidays  excepted.  Opposite  Schloss 
Eltz  are  the  ruins  of  Trutgeltt^  or  BaldeniltSt  erected  by  Archbishop 
Baldwin  of  Treves  to  command  the  castle,  with  the  counts  of  which 
he  carried  on  a  protracted  feud:  Best  survey  of  Schloss  Eltz  and  Balden- 
eltz  from  the  cross  on  the  path  to  the  chateau  from  Wierschem,  beyond 
its  junction  with  that  from  Lasserg  and  Neuhof  (see  above). 

About  8  M.  farther  up  the  Blzthal,  and  the  same  distance  from  Hiin- 
ster-Maifeld,  rise  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Ptfrmont.  near  which 
the  Ell  forms  a  fine  waterfall.  Beyond  the  castle  we  ascena  (good  echo) 
to  the  P^rtnonter  BS/e.^  and  then  proceed  to  the  left  to  the  (2H.)  solitary 
Schtoankirche ,  a  pilgrimage-church,  built  in  1473  and  restored  in  1880. 
Thence  by  Brohl  or  Font  to  Garden  (see  below),  I'/a  hr. 

L.B.  Jtfuden (*H6fer),  opposite  the  entrance  of  the  Lutzer-Thal. 

23  M.  Garden  (steamb.  stat, ;  ^Brauer ;  Weitw,  at  the  station), 
below  which  is  a  cave  in  which  St.  Castor ,  whose  bones  now  re- 
pose in  the  Gastorkirche  at  Goblenz,  is  said  to  haye  dwelt  in  the 
4th  century.  The  present  charcb,  once  part  of  an  abbey,  was 
erected  in  1183-1247  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  one  founded  by  the 
saint.  The  choir  and  transept  are  in  a  late-Romanesqne  style,  the 
nave  is  eaily-Gothic.  The  interior  contains  an  interesting  terra- 
cotta group  of  the  Magi  and  Saints  at  the  high-altar,  several  other 
late-Gothic  sculptures,  and  old  tombstones.  —  Higher  up,  on  the 
other  bank  of  the  river,  lies  — 

R.B.  Treii  (steamb.  stat. ;  Conzen ,  well  spoken  of),  a  village 
with  1600  inhabitants.  In  the  valley  behind  it  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Wildenburg  and  Sehlosa  Treis.  Tasteful  church  by  Lasaulx,  1830. 
The  (2  M.)  Treiser  Sehock  commands  a  fine  view.  —  A  path  crosses 
the  hill  from  Treis  to  Bruttig  fp.  182)  in  1^2  hr. ;  in  the  Flaum-^ 
hachihal  is  the  ruined  monastery  of  Engelport. 

25^2  M.  Pommem^  with  an  old  castle,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pommer- 
bach,  in  the  valley  of  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  nunnery  of  Rosen- 
thal, founded  in  1 170.  — 27  M.  02of  ten  (steamb.  stat.),  with  the  castle 
of  that  name.  Clotten  is  the  dep6t  for  the  excellent  slate  yielded 
by  the  curious  subterranean  quarries  of  Mullenhaeh ,  9  M.  inland . 

30  M.  Coehem.  —  Hotels.  «Zub  Union,  well-appointed,  1/2  M.  from 
the  station,  R.,  L.,  A  A.  2Vs,  D.  2V4>  B.  1  m.  *,  Gbhxania,  well  spoken  of  >, 
Stadt  Goblenz,  Zum  Kaissr,  both  unpretending.  —  Beer  aX,8tammeV». 

Omnibu*  to  Bruttig,  Beilstein,  and  Poltersdorf  (p.  183),  twice  daily. 

Cochcm  (steamb.  stat.),  a  district- town  with  3200  iiihab.,  is 
one  of  the  prettiest  places  on  the  Moselle  (beautiful  view  from 
the  railway  -  station).  The  old  castle,  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1688,  was  frequently  occupied  by  the  Archbishops  of  Treves 


182    RouU26.  BRUTTIO.  The  MoseUe  from 

in  the  14th  and  16th  centuries.  It  wm  restored  in  1868-78 
by  Kaventf  (d.  1879)  after  pUns  by  Basehdorff,  with  the  aid  of 
a  Tiew  of  the  bnilding  taken  in  1676.  The  principal  tower  is 
adorned  with  a  huge  figure  of  St.  Christopher,  in  mosaic,  by  Sal- 
yiati.  Visitors  apply  for  admission  in  the  restaurant  at  the  en- 
trance (1-4  pers.,  1  m.).  The  finest  rooms  are  the  armoury,  the 
diiiing-hall ,  and  the  ^KittersaaV,  the  last  decorated  with  frescoes 
by  Ewald  and  Miinster.  The  Restaurant  Kniippehen ,  below  the 
castle,  affords  a  fine  view.  The  old  Captichin  Monastery,  now  a 
school,  which  is  picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence,  once  num- 
bered among  its  inmates  Pater  Martin  of  Gochem  (d.  1712),  a  well- 
known  German  devotional  writer.  At  :the  Influx  of  the  Eridertsbcuih 
into  the  Moselle  stands  a  Monument  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870- 
71.  In  the  background,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  about  1^2  ^*  ^P 
the  valley  of  the  Endertsbach ,  rises  the  tower  of  the  Winneburgy 
the  most  ancient  seat  of  the  Mettemich  family,  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1639.  —  On  the  right  bank,  opposite  Gochem,  lies  Cond. 
The  train  now  passes  through  the  Cochemer  or  Ellerer  Berg  to 
Eller  Tp.  183)  by  means  of  the  Kaiser  Wilhelm  Tunnel,  the  longest 
tunnel  in  Germany  (22/3  M.),  the  excavation  of  which  through  the 
clay-slate  occupied  3V2  years  (1874-77)  and  cost  4,000,000  m. ;  it 
is  vaulted  throughout. 

The  Moselle  sweeps  round  the  Ellerer  Berg  in  a  winding  curve 
of  more  than  12  M.  in  length ,  which  the  steamer  takes  2^2  hrs. 
to  traverse  in  ascending  and  1^2  ^^*  i^  descending.  The  banks 
here  are  particularly  picturesque. 

At  8ehl,  on  the  left  bank,  1  M.  above  Gochem,  a  fine  retrospect 
is  enjoyed  of  Gochem,  its  castle,  and  the  Winneburg.  —  L.B.  £6er- 
nachj  once  a  priory  of  Laach  (p.  93). 

R.  B.  Valwig,  Picturesque  groups  of  rocks. 

L.B.  Nieder-Err^st  and  Ober- Ernst.  Between  them  a  modem 
church  with  two  towers.  Above  the  sharp  bend  which  the  river 
makes  here,  about  1  hr.  above  Gochem,  lies  — 

R.  B.  Bruttig  (*Friedrichs,  plain),  a  small  town  with  quaint 
mediaeval  houses  (interesting  interiors),  formerly  under  the  joint 
sway  of  the  Counts  of  Winneburg  and  Beilstein  and  the  Electors 
of  Treves,  a  curious  division  of  authority  which  also  existed  in 
other  places  on  the  Moselle.  The  church  contains  some  Gothic 
sculptures  from  an  earlier  edifice.  Bruttig  was  the  birthplace  of 
the  grammarian  Petrus  Mosellanus  (d.  1524).  A  walk  on  the  right 
bank  from  Bruttig  to  Senhelm  is  recommended  to  lovers  of  the 
picturesque. 

R.  B.  Fankel,  lying  somewhat  inland. 

L.  B.  Ellenz  (Dehren).  Fine  view  of  Beilstein  from  a  point 
near  the  mediaeval  church. 

R.B.  Beilstein  (steamb.  stat.  ;  Lipmann'),  nestling  at  the  foot  of 


Coblen%  to  Treves.  ELLBR.  2S.  Bout€,     183 

the  rocks,  U  oTerlooked  by  the  old  imperial  castle  of  the  same 
name,  which  afterwards  belonged  to  the  Electors  of  Treves,  and 
then  to  the  Counts  (now  Princes)  of  Mettemich-Winneburg,  under 
whose  protection  numerous  Jews  settled  here.  Omnibus  dally  to 
Cochem  (p.  181). 

L.B.  PolUfdorf  (omnibus  daily  to  Cochem,  p.  181).  —  R.B. 
Britdem,  — R.B.  Mesenich^  with  the  cellarage  of  the  old  Abbey  of 
Brauweller.   Then,  about  SVa  M.  from  Beilstein  — 

R.B.  £l^nA«tm(8teamb.  stat. ;  Schneiders),  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  with  a  high-lying  church  and  an  imposing 
old  castellated  dwelling-house  (the  'Burg').  (From  Senheim  to 
BuUay  via  the  Konig,  21/2  hrs.)  —  Opposite  lies  — 

L.B.  8enhal$  (Deis),  and  a  little  farther  up  is  Nehren,  About 
3/4  M.  from  the  latter  is  a  hill  with  a  Roman  tomb  (the  ^Heiden- 
keller'),  commanding  an  admirable  yiew  of  Senheim.  —  The  next 
places  are  Lthmen^  with  an  old  tower,  and  — 

L.B.  Ediger  (steamb.  stat. ;  *X/Otren),  surrounded  with  old  for- 
tifications, and  possessing  numerous  medieval  buildings  and  a 
late-Gothic  church  which  contains  a  fine  late-GK)thic  monstrance. 
The  Rathhaus  is  adorned  with  quaint  relieft.  We  now  reach  Eller 
(comp.  p.  182),  3V2  M.  above  Senhals. 


Just  above  Eller ,  at  the  base  of  the  wooded  Calmond^  in  the 
pretty  valley  of  the  Eller^  is  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  mentioned 
at  p.  182. 

3372  M.  Eller  (Moaelbdhn;  Friedrichjj  with  old  houses  of  the 
feudal  ages.  Above  it,  on  the  right  bank,  are  the  ruins  of  Stuben 
(see  below). 

The  train  crosses  the  Moselle,  passes  through  another  tunnel 
(370yds.  long),  and  skirts  the  base  of  the  precipitous  Petershergy 
on  the  right  bank.  34  M.  Neef  (steamb.  stat.). 

On  the  summit  of  the  Petersberg  are  the  Chapel  of  St.  Peter  and  the 
burial-groand  of  Neef,  commanding  a  beautiful  *  Panorama.  (A  pictur- 
esque footpath  leads  from  the  chapel  via  the  EuUnkopf  and  Stuben  to 
Bremm  in  25  min.) 

At  the  centre  of  the  curve  which  the  river  describes  round  the 
Petersberg,  to  the  left,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  the  monastery  of 
Stuben,  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  and  suppressed  in  1788.  On  the 
left  bank,  a  little  farther  on,  is  Bremm  (*Amlinger),  vyith  a  late- 
Gothic  church  and  medisBval  houses,  where  the  vine  is  said  to  have 
been  cultivated  on  the  central  part  of  the  Moselle  for  the  first  time. 
The  next  place  is  Aldegund,  nearly  opposite  Neef. 

36^2 M.  Biilla7C*Afartendur$F,  moderate;  Zu  den  Vier  Tkiirmeny 
at  the  station ;  *Rail,  Restaurant),  on  the  right  bank,  the  station  for 
Alf  and  the  baths  of  Bertrich  (see  p.  194)  on  the  opposite  bank,  and 
also  for  Zdl  (p.  186).  The  road  to  the  ferry  turns  to  the  right 
at  the  station,  and  then  leads  again  to  the  right  below  the  railway. 
By  following  the  railway  a  little  farther  and  crossing  the  bridge 


184    BouU  25.  WITTLIOH.  The  MouUt  from 

mentioned  below  we  reach  the  foot  of  the  Marieriburg  (p.  185), 
which  if  ascended  hence  by  a  good  footpath  in  20  minntes. 

Opposite  the  lUrienborg  hotel  is  a  road  leading  to  the  0/«  M.)  road  to 
Merl  which  we  follow  to  the  left  for  Va  M.  and  then  diverge  to  the  right. 
After  another  Vsl^*  we  reach  a  point  where  the  path  forks,  the  branch  to  the 
left  leading  to  Senheim  and  the  other  to  Merl.  Following  the  latter  we  reach 
(5  min.)  the  *  ^  Vierseenplats*  on  the  KHmig^  which  commands  a  splendid 
view  of  the  Marienbnrg  and  the  Moselle,  surpassing  that  from  the  Harien- 
burg  itself.  The  descent  to  Merl  takes  Vs  br.  (A  pleasant  walk  of  2S/4-3 
hrs.  may  be  taken  to  Alf,  the  Marienbnrg,  Kaimt,  Zell,  Merl,  the  Konig, 
and  then  back  to  Bullay.) 

Steamboat  Jovbitbt  fbok  Alv  to  T&^vbs  ,  see  p.  186. 

Railway.  Beyond  Bnllay  the  train  crosses  the  Moselle  by  a 
huge  doable  bridge  resting  on  iron  girders ,  of  which  the  higher 
loTol  supports  the  ordinary  roadway.  The  central  opening  has  a 
span  of  290  ft.  The  train  then  penetrates  the  PrinMenkopf  by  a 
curred  tunnel,  480  yds.  in  length,  which  emerges  upon  the  river 
above  Punderich  (p.  186).  The  railway  is  next  carried  tilong  the  hill 
by  an  imposing  viaduct  with  92  arches,  each  24  ft.  wide.  3872^- 
Punderich ,  the  station  for  the  village  on  the  right  bank ,  1  y^  M. 
farther  down  (p.  186). 

Fkom  Pumdebich  to  Tbabbach-Tsabsh,  7M.,  branch-railway  in  34 min. 
(fares  90,  70,  50  pf.).  i  M.  Reil  (p.  186)-,  2  M.  Burg  (p.  186j}  HA  M.  £n- 
kireh  (p.  186)-,  7  M.  Trarbaeh-Traben  (p.  186). 

Beyond  Punderich  the  train  quits  the  river,  and  reaches  the 
Alf  thai  by  means  of  another  tunnel  (530  yds.)  through  the  Reiler 
Hals,  (Thevalley  of  the  Moselle  is  regained  at  Schweich,  see  below.) 

To  the  right  in  the  Alfthal,  half  concealed  by  the  trees,  is  seen 
the  church  of  the  old  canonry  of  Springirshach,  founded  in  1107, 
an  edifice  in  the  Italian  style  of  the  18th  cent.,  and  now  the 
parish-church  of  Bengel.  To  the  N.  is  the  Kondelwald ,  through 
which  a  picturesque  path  leads  viSl  the  Signal  to  Bertrich  (p.  194). 
The  train  ascends  the  valley,  passes  Bengel  (Zimmer)  and  Kinder- 
beuren  (Wirz),  and,  beyond  a  tunnel  (635  yds.),  reaches  — 

44  M.  Verzig  (Seller),  2  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name  on 
the  Moselle  (p.  lo7),  to  which  a  diligence  runs  twice  daily. 

The  train  now  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Lieser. 

From  (48 M.)  Wengerohr  a  branch-line  (21/2  M.  in  10  min.; 
fares,  40,  30,  20  pf.)  runs  to  Wittlich  {*Zum  Wolf;  *Po8t;  Losen, 
unpretending),  a  district-town  with  3400inhab.,  surrounded  with 
walls.  The  old  chateau,  of  which  all  traces  have  vanished,  was 
often  occupied  by  the  Electors  of  Treves.  Diligence  to  Kyllburg, 
see  p.  192. 

From  Wengebohr  to  Bernoastbl,  10  M.,  railway  in  */4-i  hr.   (fares 

1  m.  30,  i  m.,  70  pf.).    The  train  descends  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Lieser. 

2  M.  Flatten;  5  M.  Siebenborn,  the  station  for  Noviand;  b^/t  M.  Mating. 
liear  (7  M.)  Uesei'  it  reaches  the  Moselle,  opposite  MilMheim  (p.  188), 
91/2  M.  Cues  (p.  188),  opposite  Bemcastel  (p.  188). 

The  Lieser  is  crossed.  To  the  right  lie  the  hamlet  of  Burseheid 
and  the  village  of  Altrich,  to  the  left  the  Haardter  Hdfe»  Beyond 
the  watershed  between  the  Lieser  and  the  8alm  we  reach  — 


CohUnt  to  Treves.        MARIENBtJRG.  25.  Route.     185 

53  M.  Salmrohfj  1^2  M.  from  whicli  is  the  pilgrimage  -  resort 
EherhairdS' Clausen  (Klein),  an  old  abbey  -with  a  fine  ohurch ,  con- 
taining a  carved  altar  of  the  2nd  half  of  the  15th  century.  —  57  M. 
IJetzerath  (630  ft. ;  Paltzer) ;  hence  to  Clusserath  (p.  189),  1 '/a  hr. 

62  M.  Schweich  (steamb.  stat. ;  Johanntgen;  Denhard),  on  the 
Moselle.  The  train  then  passes  through  the  tunnel  of  Uselj  850  yds. 
in  length.  —  64  M.  Quint,  with  an  iron-work  (p.  189).  —  65  M. 
Ehrang^  a  station  on  the  Eifel  railway  (p.  193),  is  also  con- 
nected with  Treves  by  a  branch-line  (5  M.)  passing  Biewer  and 
Pallien  (p.  174).  The  Moselle  railway  crosses  the  river  at  Pfalzely 
and  reaches  — 

69V2M.  Trives,  see  p.  169.  The  station  lies  to  the  E.  of 
the  town. 

The  Xofl«lle  from  Alf  to  Treves. 

Alf(* Po8«,  with  steamboat-offlce),  a  village  with  1300inhab., 
lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Alf,  between 
the  Sollig  and  the  Prinzenkopf.  Through  the  valley  runs  the  high- 
road to  (4Y2M.)Bcr«ricA  (see  p.  194).  In  the  background  rises  Bu>rg 
Arras  (p.  194). 

Alf  lies  at  the  lower  end  of  a  circuit  of  71/2  M.  described  by 
the  Moselle  round  the  saddle  of  the  Mabibnbubg  (360  ft.)  and 
the  Barl,  a  tongue  of  land  only  550  yds.  in  width,  on  the  farther 
side  of  which  lies  Piinderich  (see  below),  IV2  M.  from  Alf. 
The  steamer  takes  3/4  hr.  with,  and  V/2hi.  against  the  stream, 
to  accomplish  this  detour ,  so  that  walkers  may  quit  the  river  at 
Alf,  ascend  to  the  (Y2  ^^0  Marienburg,  and  regain  the  steamer  at 
(74  hr.)  Punderich.  There  is  still  ample  time  to  descend  after  the 
boat  comes  in  sight  at  Briedel.  Carr.  from  Alf  to  the  top  of  the 
Marienburg  and  back  4  m.  —  A  walk  from  BuUay  to  the  Marien- 
burg, across  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  184,  takes  20  minutes. 

The  *Matienbiirg  (*ltestaurant),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  said 
to  have  once  existed  here,  or  of  the  monastery  erected  on  the  same 
spot  in  1146,  is  one  of  the  finest  points  on  the  Moselle.  The  view 
embraces  the  wooded  and  vine-dad  slopes  of  the  Moselle,  the  smil- 
ing villages  on  its  banks ,  the  summits  of  the  Hunsruck  and  the 
Eifel,  and  two  detached  reaches  of  the  river,  resembling  lakes.  — 
Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  from  the  Marienburg  to  the  top  of 
the  Barl  (see  above),  and  to  the  Reilerhals,  which  affords  a  view  of 
the  valleys  of  the  Moselle  and  the  Alf. 

A  picturesque  route  leads  direct  from  the  Marienburg  to  the  (^/t  hr.) 
Alfthal  and  Bertrich  (difficult  to  find  without  a  guide).  Diverging  to  the 
right  from  the  footpath  to  Alf,  we  skirt  the  Prinzenkopf,  and  in  10  min. 
reach  the  road  from  Alf  to  Biel  and  Bengel,  which  we  follow  to  the 
left,  through  beautiful  woods.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reach  a  path  de- 
scending to  the  right  and  soon  joining  another,  which  leads  along  the 
steep  side  of  the  hill.  We  now  proceed  in  the  direction  of  the  con- 
spicuous castle  of  Arras  (p.  194).  On  reaching  the  saddle  we  may  either 
descend  to  the  left  to  Hellenihal  and  Springirsbach  (p.  184),  or  to  the  right 


186    Boute  25.  TRARBAGH.  The  MonUefrom . 

to  the  confluence  of  the  Alf  and  the  Ueabach,  on  the  road  from  Alf  to 
Bertrich  (p.  194). 

The  dlBtance  from  Alf  to  Tr^yes  by  the  riTei  Is  about  62  M. 
The  fliBt  place  passed  by  the  steamboat  after  leaying  Alf  is  Merl 
(Groff,  well  spoken  of),  a  small  village  on  the  right  bank,  2  M. 
above  Ballay,  with  an  old  Minorite  abbey. 

B.B.  Corray,  —  R.B.  Zell  (^Fier;  Scfieuer,  unpretending,  well 
spoken  of),  a  district-town  with  2500  inhabitants,  surrounded  by 
remnants  of  an  old  wall,  suffered  severely  ftrom  a  conflagration  in 
1848.  The  old  Electoral  ChdteaUj  built  in  1543,  offers  many  points 
of  interest.    Handsome  new  Town  Buildings.  —  Opposite  lies  — 

L.B.  Kaimt,  whence  a  picturesque  path  leads  along  the  base 
of  the  Barl  to  (^/^  hr.)  the  Marienburg. 

R.B.  Briedel  (Schneider),  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  S. 
and  W.  sides  of  the  Marienburg.  A  rough  short-cut  leads  from 
Briedel  across  the  hill  to  Enkirch  (see  below). 

R.B.  Punderich  (Hpep,  Engel,  Schneiders,  all  unpretending), 
a  picturesquely-situated  village.  Opposite  the  steamboat-pier  is 
the  path  mentioned  above ,  which  ascends  to  the  Marienburg  in 
y4  hour.  The  mouth  of  the  tunnel  through  the  Prinzenkopf ,  the 
Imposing  railway-viaduct,  and  the  entrance  to  the  tunnel  by  which 
the  train  quits  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  are  also  visible  from  the 
steamboat  (comp.  p.  184). 

R.B.  BeiUcireh,  1V4^*  above  Piinderich,  is  the  church  of  the 
village  of  Beil  (Nalbach,  Barzem),  which  lies  a  little  higher  up  on 
the  opposite  bank.   Beyond  Rell  the  left  bank  is  very  steep. 

R.B.  Burg,  —  R.B.  Enkirch  (*Anker),  a  large  village,  named 
Ankaracha  in  the  earliest  documents ,  most  of  the  inhabitants  of 
which  are  Protestants. 

L.B.  Kovenich ,  a  small  group  of  houses ,  built  chiefly  with 
the  ruins  of  Montroyal  (see  below).  —  L.B.  Litzig. 

On  the  top  of  the  lofty  rocks  to  the  left  (R.B.)  lies  Starkenhurg^ 
with  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  in  which,  about  the  middle  of  the  14th 
cent.,  the  Gountess  Laurette  von  Starkenburg  detained  Archbishop 
Baldwin  of  Treves  in  captivity  for  an  attempted  infringement  of 
her  rights ,  until  he  paid  a  large  ransom  for  his  liberation.  To  the 
light  rises  the  Trdbener  Berg ,  on  the  fiat  top  of  which  are  traces 
of  the  fortress  of  Montroyal ,  constructed  by  Louis  XIV.  In  1686, 
but  demolished  in  1697  in  pursuance  of  the  Treaty  of  Ryswyck. 
The  hill  commands  a  beautiful  view.  —  At  the  apex  of  the  curve 
which  the  river  makes  round  this  hill  lies  — 

L.B.  Traben  (*Claus8,  R.  &  B.  2  m.  25,  D.  1  m.  80,  S.  1  m. 
40  pf.) ,  a  village  with  1600  inhab.,  seriously  damaged  by  flre  in 
1857  and  1878.  —  Opposite  (71/2  M.  from  Piinderich)  is  — 

R.B.  Trarbach(*B«Wcr«e,  R.  IV2J  A.  %  S.  1  m. ;  Brauneberg, 

unpretending,  well  spoken  of;   Orafinburg),  burned  down  in  1857, 

and  since  rebuilt,  the  most  prosperous  little  town  on  the  Moselle, 

Uh  1800 inhab.,  most  of  whom  are  Protestants  (comp.  p.  179).  It 


Coblent  to  Treves,       BERNOASTEL.  25.  Route,     187 

is  cOttmanded  by  the  rain  of  the  Ordflnburpj  erected  according  to 
tradition  by  the  Coantess  Ton  Starkenburg  with  the  ransom  Bhe 
exacted  from  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  (see  above^,  but  more  pro- 
bably built  by  her  son,  Count  Johann  III.  (d.  1387).  The  castle 
was  dismantled  by  the  French  in  1734. 

At  Trarbaeh  opens  the  KautanbaAhthal,  a  valley  enclofed  by  wooded 
and  rocky  slopes,  through  which  runs  the  high-road  to  Fischbach  (p.  160). 
The  most  picturesque  part  is  above  (2V2  H.)  the  baths  of  Wildttein^  where 
there  is  a  thermal  spring  (83**  Fahr.).  Good  accommodation  in  the  Ctir- 
haus  and  the  Bdtel  Wildttein  (pens.  5  m.)*  *-  Walkers  may  reach  Bern- 
castel  in  31/2  hrs.  bv  following  the  Kautenbachthal  to  Longcamp  and  then 
descending  the  Tiefenhachthal  (p.  188).  Carriage  from  Trarbaeh  to  Bern- 
caatel  by  these  two  valleys,  12  m. 

At  Trarbaeh  begins  the  district  of  the  ^Upper  Moselle',  which 
produces  the  ^ZeltingerSchlossberg',  ^Bernoasteler  Doctor',  ^Braune- 
berger\  and  other  highly-prized  yarieties  of  Moselle  wine. 

L.B.  Bieabaeh,  —  R.B.  Wolf.  The  ruins  on  the  hill  are  those 
of  a  monastery. 

L.B.  Cro/f  (•Zur  Graflnburg,  unpretending),  capital  of  the  old 
'Oroffer  Reich',  which  included  several  villages  in  the  valleys  of 
the  Moselle  and  the  Alf.  Croff  was  originally  a  Garlovingian  free- 
hold, but  afterwards  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Emperors.  In 
1171  Frederick  I.  gave  it  in  pledge  to  the  Counts  of  Sponheim,  and 
the  inhabitants  suffered  no  little  injury  from  the  disputes  between 
these  nobles  and  the  Electors  of  Treves,  who  acted  as  the  im- 
perial representatives. 

L.B.  Kinheim  (*Neidhdfer,  good  wine). 

R.B.  Kindel.  —  R.B.  Loaenieh,  —  R.B.  Erden, 

On  the  left  bank,  below  Uerzig,  is  a  tower  built  into  the  rock, 
with  a  large  sun-dial,  formerly  a  castle,  afterwards  a  hermitage, 
known  as  the  Michaels-Lei  or  Nicolaus-Lei, 

R.B.  Uerzig  (*Po8t),  a  place  of  some  importance,  which  once 
possessed  an  independent  jurisdiction.  It  is  2  M.  from  the  station 
mentioned  at  p.  184,  the  road  to  which  first  ascends  somewhat 
abruptly  and  then  descends  (diligence  in  Y2  ^^* ;  omnibus  50  pf.). 

R.B.  Bachtig,  —  L.B.  Machem,  —  R.B.  Zeltingen  (Scheer; 
*Schlo88berger'  wine). 

R.B.  Oraach,  Adjacent  to  the  church  is  an  old  abbey.  The 
Martinshof,  or  Josephshof,  a  little  lower  down,  the  Himmelreieh^ 
and  the  Kirehlei  all  produce  esteemed  varieties  of  wine. 

R.B.   Wehlen,  also  a  wine-growing  place. 

R.B.  Bemcastel  (^Drei  Konige,  in  a  side-street,  R.  &  B.  2  m. 
40  pf.,  D.  272™*;  *Po8tj  moderate),  the  capital  of  the  district, 
with  2400inhab.,  was  partly  burned  down  in  1857.  The  ruined 
electoral  castle  ot  Landshutj  now  the  property  of  Emp.  William, 
commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Moselle  and  of  the  valley  of  the 
Tiefenbach.  The  wine  known  as  'Berncasteler  Doctor'  and  those  of 
the  *Lei'  are  much  prized.  Diligence  daily  to  (281/2  M.)  Fischbach 
(p.  160),  in  7  hours.   Local  steamer  to  Treves,  see  p.  178. 


188    RouU25.  NEUMAGEN. 

The  ^TiafenbMlitlial,  whieh  opens  at  Berneaatel  and  is  ascended  by 
the  road  to  the  Hunsriick,  resembles  the  Ahrthal  (p.  85)  in  the  grandeur 
of  its  rocky  scenery.  About  1  M.  above  Berncastel  are  a  chapel  and  a 
waterfall,  where  a  lateral  valley  diverges  to  the  right,  through  which  we 
reach  ('A  hr.)  liontelfeld  (Ane  view).  Hence  to  Veldenz  (see  below),  1  hour. 

Berncastel  is  oonnected  by  a  stone  bridge  with  — 

L.B.  Cu€B^  the  birthplace  of  the  learned  Cardinal  Nlcolans 
Ousanus  (d.  1464),  who  founded  a  hospital  here  and  bequeathed 
to  it  his  library,  containing  some  valuable  MSS.,  a  number  of 
Codices,  and  rare  old  Impressions.  The  hospital  owns  several  of 
the  Ylneyards  In  the  neighbourhood.  Cues  is  the  terminus  of  the 
branch-railway  mentioned  at  p.  184. 

R.B.  Andd^  the  first  place  in  the  old  Protestant  county  of 
Veldenz,  which  was  finally  incorporated  with  the  Palatinate. 

L.B.  Lieser  (Jung) ,  a  well-built  village  at  the  mouth  of  the 
brook  of  that  name. 

R.B.  MiXhlhtim  (*Karsch),  a  yillage  of  some  importance  at  the 
entrance  to  the  picturesque  Veldent  Valley,  in  which  lie  the  vil- 
lages of  Veldenz  (Bottler)  and  Thai  Veldent  ^  and  the  ruins  of  Burg 
Veldenz  (fine  view). 

R.B.  l>u«emorki(Plunien).  — R.B.  Neu-FUzen.  ^R,B.  Filzen. 

L.B.  The  Brauneberg,  famous  for  its  wine.  At  the  upper  end  of 
the  Brauneberg,  on  the  hill,  lies  Monzel,  below  which,  on  a  small 
headland,  is  Kesten  (*Licht,  unpretending),  whence  a  footpath 
leads  in  1^4  hr.  to  Pisport  (see  below).  The  hills  of  Ohligsberg  and 
Neuberg,  on  the  other  bank,  also  produce  excellent  wine. 

R.B.   Winterich,  where  the  hills  approach  close  to  the  river. 

L.B.  Minheim,  at  the  apex  of  a  sharp  curve  in  the  river. 

R.B.  Beinsport  (*Fuchs,  below  the  ferry).  —  R.B.  Muster L  A 
little  inland  lies  NiederemmeL 

L.B.  Pisport  (*Hayn),  perhaps  ^Pisonis  Partus',  has  been  for 
centuries  famous  for  its  wine.  A  road  leads  hence  via  Clausen 
to  (6^2  M.)  Salmrohr  (p.  185),  on  the  Moselle  railway. 

L.B.  Ferres,  the -Bo vem>  of  ancient  charters,  about  ^/^  M.  above 
Pisport. 

A  little  higher  up  ,  the  Thron,  a  rapid  stream  abounding  in  fish, 
flows  into  the  Moselle  on  the  left.  The  village  of  Thron  (Feilen),  in  its 
narrow  valley,  is  noted  for  its  wine  ('Hofberger*).  A  provostry  of  the 
abbey  of  Tholei,  which  lay  here,  was  presented  by  Ifapoleon  to  Marshal 
Bertier,  Prince  of  Wagram.  At  the  head  of  the  valley  rises  the  ruined 
castle  of  Troneck,  near  which  is  the  'Singende  ThaF. 

R.B.  Keumagen  (Hoffmann),  the  Roman  Noviomagus,  where 
Constantino  had  a  castle,  mentioned  by  Ausonlus.  In  1877-78 
an  immense  quantity  of  Roman  sculptures  from  tombs  was  dis- 
covered here ;  some  of  the  reliefs  refer  to  the  wine-trade  carried 
on  on  the  Moselle  by  the  Romans.  The  church,  erected  in  1190,  was 
probably  built  with  the  stones  of  the  castle.  Opposite  is  a  foot- 
path leading  over  the  hill  to  (1  hr.)  Cliisserath. 

Above  Neumagen  the  Moselle  makes  a  wide  curve.  Here ,  to 
the  right,  lies  Trittenheim,  the  birthplace  of  Johann  Trithemius, 


EUSKIROHEN.  26,  BouU,     189 

an  eminent  historian,  and  Abbot  of  Sponheim  (d.  1516),  'who 
persuaded  the  Elector  Joachim  of  Brandenburg  to  found  the  uni- 
versity of  Frankfort  on  the  Oder. 

R.B.  Xcitocn  (*Becker).  —  R.B.  Kowerieh,  —  L.Bi,'' Cliisserath 
(Post),  at  the  mouth  of  the  8alm,  71/2  M.  from  H^twrath  (p.  185). 

R.B.  Thomich,  —  R.B.  Detzem  (^ad  decimum',  i.e.  the  tenth 
Roman  milestone  from  Trftves).    Opposite,  — 

L.B.  Ensch,  —  L.B.  Schleich.  —  L.B.  Polich,  —  L.B.  Mehring, 
an  old  place.  —  L.B.  Zidrsch,  —  L.B.  Longen, 

A  little  inland  on  the  right  bank,  between  the  two  last-named 
tillages,  on  the  side  of  the  bill ,  lies  Riol ,  the  Rigodulum  of 
Tacitus ,  where  the  Roman  general  Cerealis  conquered  the  rebel- 
lious Treveri,  and  took  their  leader  Valentinus  prisoner. 

R.B.  Longwich  (*Sonntag,  moderate).  —  R.B.  Kirsch ,  nearly 
opposite  Schweich  (p.  185). 

Pedestoriaiu  should  quit  the  rirer  at  Longwich  and  walk  to  (9  H.) 
Treves  vi&  Mert«r»dor/  and  the  fortified  village  of  OrHnhatu  (good  wine) 
in  the  Buwerthal.  Indeed  on  the  upper  Moselle  the  paths  along  the  hills, 
affording  numerous  views,  are  generally  preferable  to  those  on  the  banks 
of  the  river. 

L.B.  Between  Issel  and  Ehrang  (p.  185)  is  the  iron-foundry  of 
Quint  (*ad  quintum',  i.e.  5  M.  from  Treves). 

R.B.  Buwer;  in  the  valley  of  the  brook  of  that  name  lie  f^itels- 
bach  and  Casel, 

L.B.  Pfalzel  (Palatiolum)y  where  Adela,  daughter  of  King 
Dagobert,  founded  a  nunnery  in  655. 

Treves,  see  p.  169. 

26.  From  Cologne  to  Treves.  The  Volcanic  Eifel. 

113  M.  Railway  in  4V4-5V4  hrs.  (fares  14  m.  60,  11  m.,  7  m.  30  pf.). 

Cologne ,  see  p.  24.  As  far  as  (6^2  M.)  Kalscheuren  the  line 
follows  the  direction  of  the  Left  Rhenish  Railway  (R.  10);  it  then 
turns  to  the  right,  and  intersects  the  Vorgehirge  (p.  15).  10  M. 
Kierberg;  I33/4  M.  Liblar;  1772  M.  Weilerswistj  the  station  for 
Vemich;  21  M.  Derkum. 

Fbom  Dusen  (p.  14)  TO  EusKiBCHSN,  I8V2M.,  railway  in  */4  hr.  (fares  2  m. 
10,  Im.  60,  im.  iOpf.).  —  5H.  Buhenheimf  8H.  VeUweii.  i2%V.,  Ziilpich, 
an  ancient  town,  the  Roman  ToVwicum^  where  in  496  the  Alemanni  were 
defeated  by  the  Franks,  in  consequence  of  which  victory  Clovis  became 
a  convert  to  Christianity.  The  handsome  Romanesque  church  of  8t.  Peter^ 
of  the  11th  and  12th  cent.,  contains  carved  Gothic  altars  of  the  16th  century. 
The  four  gates  of  the  old  fortifications  of  the  town,  dating  f^om  the  15th 
cent.,  are  also  worthy  of  notice.    14 Va  M.  Diirscheven. 

24V2  M.  EuBkirohen  (Btihkmann),  a  busy  little  town  of  8120 
inhab.,  with  doth-factories,  lies  on  the  Erft.  It  is  the  junction  of 
the  Cologne  line  with  branches  to  Diiren  (see  above)  and  Bonn. 

From  Suskirchen  diligence  twice  daily  in  U/t  hr.  to  Kiinttareifel,  a 
small  town  on  the  Sr/L  with  a  late-Romanesque  church  of  the  12th  cent., 
containing  several  good  tombstones  of  the  16th  cent,  and  a  winged  altar- 
piece  of  the  school  of  Lucas  van  Leyden. 


190    Route  26.  MECKENHBIM.  From  Cologne 

From  BusKiECHBir  to  Boiiir,  21  X.,  railway  in  IVs  hr.  (feres  2  m.  80, 
2  m.  10,  1  m.  40  pf.).  -  The  line  eroMes  the  £r/l.  2  M.  Cuchmhtim;  4V«M. 
Odendorf.  To  the  right  the  exteuBiye  Flamerflheim  woods.  —  TVs  H.  Rhein- 
baeh  (Adenauer;  Kanth),  0itaated  in  a  fertile  plain.  About  2  H.  to  the 
8.E.  riMfl  the  Ttmiberg^  with  a  ruined  eastle,  which  belonged  to  the  Counts 
Palatine  from  050  to  1156 ;  the  round  tower  is  probably  of  Roman  origin. 
Fine  view. 

lO'/s  M.  Xeokenheim  (Biehe ,  well  spoken  of;  Fierdorf) ,  a  village 
with  2000  inhab.,  and  once  fortified.  Opposite  rises  the  Tomiberg.  ~-  From 
Meckenheim  a  road  leads  by  GeUdor/  to  (11  M.)  AUenahr  (p.  88);  the 
KaUnborner  Hdhe,  about  6  H,  from  Meckenheim,  is  a  fine  point  of  view. 
Another  charming  view  is  enjoyed  at  the  entrance  to  the  Ahrthal. 

Beyond  (18  H.)  KottM/orst  the  train  traverses  part  of  the  forest  of 
that  name,  passes  (16  M.)  WinUrtchUd^  and  descends  to  (17  M.)  DuUdorf, 
-^  21  M.  Bonn^  see  p.  74. 

29 V2  M.  Satsveyi  33  M.  Meehemieh,  to  the  left  of  which  are 
extensive  lead-mines  and  foundries.     Beyond  a  tunnel,  the  line 

steadily  ascends. 

8972  M.  Call  (NiSBchen;  Relnhard),  a  yillage  with  some 
disused  forges. 

Fbom  Gall  to  Hbllbhthal,  11  H.,  railway  in  1  hr.  31/2  M.  Otmiind 
(*Bergemann),  a  busy  little  town  on  the  Urft;  hence  to  Heimbach  and 
Nideggen,  see  p.  14.  The  line  ascends  the  picturesque  valley  of  the 
OUf,  passing  (SVa  M.)  OUf,  to  fP/a  M.)  ScMeiden,  with  501  inhab.,  the 
smallest  district  town  in  Prussia  and  once  the  capital  of  nn  independent 
dominion.  It  contains  an  ancient  church  and  a  ruined  castle.  —  10  M. 
Blumentfial^  a  little  above  which  rise  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Reiffwteheid^  mentioned  as  early  as  976,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  Princes 
and  Counts  of  Salm-ReiiTerscheld-Dyck.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the 
Wildenhurg^  3  H.  from  the  station  of  Blankenheim  (see  below).  —  11  H. 
Hellenihaly  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Olef. 

42  M.  XJrft  (Schneider).  The  old  abbey  of  Steinfeld,  founded 
in  the  iOth  cent,  and  nov  a  i^fornuitoiy,  lies  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  (not 
visible) ;  the  large,  well-preserved  church  contains  an  altar-piece  of 
1530  and  a  monument  of  1782.  —  45  M.  Nctiersheim,  on  the  Urft. 

491/2  M.  Blankenheim,  which  lies  2V2M.  from  the  station  (dili- 
gence four  times  daily ;  Schwartz's  Inn) ,  is  situated  in  a  narrow 
valley  to  the  £.,  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  ancestral  castle 
of  the  knights  of  Blankenheim,  built  in  the  12th  century.  The 
parish  church  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  Counts  of  Mander- 
scheid,  to  whom  the  castle  afterwards  belonged.  The  Ahr  (p.  85)  rises 
at  Blankenheim,  where  its  sources  are  enclosed  by  a  wall.  —  From 
Blankenheim  a  diligence  runs  daily  to  (I8V2  M.)  Adenau  (p.  89). 

The  line  continues  to  ascend,  until  at  (52  M.)  Sehmidiheim,  with 
an  old  castle,  it  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Urft  and  the 
beautiful  *  Valley  of  the  Kyllj  which  it  enters  at  (571/2  M.)  Junke- 
rath  (1450ft.),  the  station  for -fiftod«fcy«  (Post),  situated  3M.  higher 
up  (diligence  four  times  daily).  Jtinkerath  (Brinkmann),  which 
possesses  a  large  foundry  and  an  extensive  ruined  castle,  probably 
occupies  the  site  of  the  Roman  station  leorigium.  60  M.  Lissendorf, 
The  train  now  descends  the  valley,  passing  over  44  bridges  and  via- 
ducts, and  through  10  tunnels. 


to  Trhves,  GEROLSTEIN.  26.  Route.     191 

63  M.  HUlMheim  (1433  ft. ;  *Schmitz;  *Kloep^,  a  small  town 
with  1200  Inhab.,  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  The  (1  M.)  KyUer 
Hohe  commands  a  heautiful  view. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  Hilleslieim  station  down  the 
KyUthal  to  tbe  (IV4  br.)  Catae^wg.  After  passing  (20  min.)  NiedtrbettwifM 
and  (Va  hr.)  Bewingen  we  take  tbe  footpatli  to  the  left  beyond  tbe  points- 
man'^s  cottage,  and  ascend  to  the  Oh  hr.)  Casselbure  (see  below). 

HlUesheim  is  about  17  M.  from  Adenau.  to  which  a  good  road  leads 
(see  Ifap).  On  this  road,  3  H.  to  the  N.W.  of  Hillesheim,  lies  Kerpen^  with 
a  beautiful  ruined  castle.  Here  we  may  quit  the  road  for  a  walk  to 
(1V»  M.  to  the  E.)  Nxederehe  (Schmitz,  tolerable),  a  village  in  a  basin  of 
shell-limestone,  with  an  old  abbey-church  containing  the  tombs  of  Philip, 
Count  of  the  MJark,  and  his  wife.  A  footpath  ascends  hence,  following  the 
course  of  the  brook,  to  the  Nohner  liUhUy  the  ruin  of  DreimUhlen  with  a 
waterfall  (fossils),  and  AhUtU  (^Fasen,  by  the  bridge).  A  Roman  villa 
was  discovered  in  1878  at  Leudersdor/,  IV4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Ahiitte.  From 
Ahiitte  we  continue  to  follow  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Altbach  to  (Vs  hr.) 
the  picturesque  ruin  of  Jfeu-Blankenhain.  Thence  we  ascend  a  footpath 
to  the  (Va  hr.  j  to  the  W.)  road  coming  from  the  H^ohn,  which  we  may 
follow  to  Kirmuttcheidt  and  then  proceed  to  the  right  by  Wir/t  and  ffonne- 
rath  to  Adenau  (p.  89).  Or  we  may  choose  the  route  by  BartoeiUr  (Ser- 
vatius),  a  resort  of  pilgrims,  WietenBcheid,  and  NUrburg. 

Fbom  Hillbbheim  to  Daun,  I2V2  M.  The  road  leads  by  (iVs  H.)  Oher- 
ehe  and  (2Vs  H.)  DreiSt  between  which  places,  to  the  right  of  the  road, 
lies  the  Dreiser  Weiher,  a  marshy  meadow  remarkable  for  its  strong  car- 
bonic acid  exhalations.  On  the  E.  and  S.  sides  of  it  are  frequently  found 
nodules  of  olivine,  which  have  been  thrown  up  by  volcanic  agency.  The 
next  village  is  (1  M.)  Dochweiler^  to  the  S.  of  which  rises  the  ^Erenabeiv 
(2267  ft.) ,  an  extinct  crater ,  from  which  a  thick  stream  of  basaltic  lava, 
beginning  about  2(X)  ft.  below  the  summit,  descends  towards  the  K.  to  Dock- 
weiler  and  Dreis.  The  ascent  of  this  hill  is  also  interesting  on  account  of 
the  view  it  commands  and  the  extensive  millstone- quarries  situated  on 
it.  The  path  diverges  from  the  road  at  the  point  where  it  divides  beyond 
Dockweiler.  The  Daun  and  Gerolstein  road  passes  the  base  of  the  Erens- 
berg  on  the  8.  side.    Daun^  see  p.  196. 

The  most  Interesting  pait  of  the  line  begins  below  Hillesheim. 
The  valley,  which  is  exceedingly  fertile  and  well-cultivated,  is  en- 
closed by  precipitous  and  partly-wooded  limestone  rocks  of  most  pic- 
turesque forms.  To  the  right  of  the  village  of  Petm^  which  the  train 
passes,  rises  a  wooded  hill  (1560  ft.)  crowned  with  the  ruined  *Cas9«i- 
hurg  (ascent  20  min.),  once  the  ancestral  castle  of  the  knights  of 
Oastelberg.  The  principal  tower,  164  ft.  high,  is  easily  ascended,  and 
commands  a  splendid  view  of  the  Kyllthal  and  the  Eifel.  Key  at  the 
forester's  house  (refreshments). 

The  PapenJtaul  (see  below)  may  be  reached  from  the  forester's  house 
in  Vs  hr.;  near  it  is  a  cavern,  known  as  the  Buchenloch,  in  which  some 
colossal  fossilised  bones  were  lately  found.  From  the  Papenkaul  we 
descend  to  Gerolstein  in  1/4  hr.,  passing  the  lime-tree  mentioned  below. 

The  /cs  Cavtm  o/Roth,  S  M.  to  theK.W.  of  the  Gasselburg,  near  the 
village  of  Roth,  is  an  old  pit,  on  a  volcanic  hill,  about  16  ft.  deep,  in 
which  ice  is  found  in  summer. 

The  valley  of  Gees^  to  the  S.E.  of  Pelm,  abounds  in  fossils. 

69  M.  eerolstein  (1300  ft. ;  BaU,  Best;  *Post;  *&'s,  near  the 
rail-way  station;  Heek,  well  spoken  of),  the  finest  point  In  the 
Kyllthal,  and  one  of  the  most  picturesque  places  in  the  Eifel ,  is 
confined  within  narrow  limits  by  the  rocks  and  the  river,  and  com- 
manded by  a  ruined  castle,  built  by  Gerhard  von  Blankenheim  in 


192     RouU2e.  KYLLBURG. 

1115,  and  afterwards  in  the  possession  of  the  Counts  of  Msnder- 
scheid.  A  fine  view  of  Gerolstein  is  ohtained  from  a  large  lime-tree 
on  the  road  leading  to  the  N.  from  the  station.  On  the  top  of  the 
limestone  rocks  opposite  the  yillage  is  the  Papenkauly  a  small  extinct 
crater,  from  which  a  narrow  stream  of  lava  descends  hy  a  grassy 
valley  on  the  N.  side  into  the  Kyllthal.  The  entire  neighbourhood  of 
Gerolstein  is  very  interesting  in  a  geological  point  of  view.  Besides 
the  volcanic  formations,  aqueous  limestone,  containing  innumerable 
fossil  shells,  also  occurs.  From  Gerolstein  to  the  Casselburg  (see 
p.  191)  a  walk  of  1  hr.  Diligence  from  Gerolstein  to  (134/2  M.)  Daun 
(p.  196),  twice  daily  in  28/4  hrs.  (fare  2  m.  20 pf. ;  carr.  12  m.). 

Fbgii  Obbolstein  to  Pbuh,  12  M.,  railway  in  V/4  hr.,  via  MUllen- 
horn^  BUdesheim^  Qondelsheimy  and  WUteerath.  Priim  (*Ooldener  Sterriy  or 
Post) ,  situated  on  the  brook  of  that  name,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Schneifel 
(p.  194),  wa6  anciently  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  by  the 
Merovingians  in  720,  and  once  in  the  enioyment  of  political  independence, 
but  suppressed  by  the  French  in  1801.  The  present  buildings,  dating  from 
1756,  are  occupied  by  the  local  authorities.  The  church,  with  ito  two 
towers,  has  been  frequently  altered.  (The  line  is  being  continued  to  Aix- 
la-Chapelle,  comp.  p.  12). 

Beyond  Gerolstein  the  train  passes  Lissingen,  with  two  castles, 
adjoining  each  other  and  still  occupied.  On  the  right  bank  of  the 
Kyll,  about  IV2  M.  above  (74  M.)  BtVresftom,  is  situated  the  Mineral 
Spring  ofBirreabomy  the  strongest  and  best-known  of  the  chalybeate 
springs  of  the  Eifel.  The  gaseous  cavity  or  *  mofette',  called  the 
Brudeldreis,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kyll,  is  now  covered  in,  and 
the  gas  is  conveyed  down  the  hill  in  pipes. 

76  Y2  M.  Murlenhach  ('Krumpten),  a  small  village  with  the  ruins 
of  a  castle  founded  by  the  Merovingians  and  re-erected  in  the  17th 
century.  —  78  M.  Densbom,  with  another  ruined  castle.  The  lime- 
stone-rot^ks  are  now  succeeded  by  variegated  sandstone.  The  line 
traverses  a  pleasant  wooded  tract,  and  passes  the  villages  of  Zend- 
Bcheid  and  Vtsch  and  the  suppressed  Cistercian  monastery  of  8t.  Tho' 
mas,  built  in  1185  and  now  employed  as  a  house  of  discipline  for 
Roman  Catholic  priests.  The  Gothic  church  was  completed  in  1225. 
Near  the  village  of  Neidenbach,  SVzM.  to  the  W,,  are  extensive  re- 
mains of  the  embankment  of  an  old  Roman  road. 

84^2  M.  Kyllburg  (Leinen,  Sohulte,  both  good;  Schweitzer; 
Marquet)  J  another  very  picturesque  place,  with  1200  inhab.,  lies 
on  an  eminence  partly  encloseid  by  the  Kyll ,  and  is  commanded 
by  an  old  watch-tower  and  the  handsome  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Tho- 
masy  built  in  1276,  with  stained  glass  of  1534,  from  designs  after 
Diirer.  The  fine  adjacent  cloisters  and  the  suppressed  abbey-build- 
ings are  of  later  date.  On  a  height  on  the  Kyll,  1^2  M.  below 
Kyllburg,  rises  the  chateau  of  MaWerg,  incorporated  with  an  old 
castle  and  commanding  a  fine  view.  —  Diligence  to  (15  M.)  Mander- 
scheid  (p.  198)  daily  in  31/4  hrs.,  to  (17  M.)  Wittlich  (p.  184) 
daily  in  4  hrs. 

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THE  VOLCANIC  EIFEL.      26,  Route.     193 

means  of  the  WiUeck  Tunnel,  IV4M.  in  length.  88  M.  Erdorf 
(Weinert)  is  the  station  for  Bitburg,  a  small  town  on  the  hill  to 
the  S.W.,  4  M.  distant  (diligence  five  times  daily). 

Bitbnrg  (*  Well)  was  the  Bedae  Vicus  of  the  Romans,  and  a  station  on 
their  road  from  Treves  to  Cologne,  several  of  the  mile-stones  of  which 
hjave  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  Kobenhof.  or  house  of  the 
Kob  von  Riidingen  family,  is  a  curious  building  of  15(6.  The  castle  to 
the  N.  of  the  town ,  on  the  road  to  Priim ,  was  the  ancient  residence  of 
the  knights  of  Bitburg.  To  Prum  (p.  192)  diligence  dailv  (25  M.,  in  5»/4  hrs.). 
—  At  the  Odrang,  near  Fliessem^  2V2  M.  farther  K.  (fi/a  hr.  from  Erdorf) 
there  are  several  fine  Roman  mosaic  pavements  (inferior,  however,  to 
that  at  Nennig,  p.  177)  and  other  antiquities. 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  picturesque  wooded  *  Valley  of 
ike  Kyll,  bounded  by  sandstone-rocks.  The  brook  now  becomes  na- 
vigable for  rafts.  Tunnels  and  bridges  follow  each  other  in  rapid 
succession,  and  numerous  mills  are  passed.  At  HitUingen  is  a  pic- 
turesque waterfall ,  often  scanty  in  summer.  93  M.  Philippsheim, 
the  station  for  (IV2  ^0  Dudeldorf,  with  an  old  castle.  95  M. 
Speicher;  the  village  lies  on  the  hill,  IY2  M.  to  the  E.  97  M.  AuWj 
with  a  pilgrimage-church,  erected  in  1708-46  in  memory  of  three 
maidens,  who  here  miraculously  escaped  their  pursuers  on  an  ass. 
100  M.  Cordelj  with  valuable  quarries;  the  ruined  castle  of  JRam- 
steinj  erected  in  the  14th  cent.,  is  situated  at  the  station,  which  is 
a  considerable  way  from  the  village.  108  M.  Ehrang,  the  last  station, 
lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Kyllthal  with  the  valley  of  the  Moselle, 
and  is  connected  by  a  line  of  rails  with  the  Quint  (p.  189).  To  the 
left ,  before  Tr&ves  is  reached,  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  town 
on  the  opposite  bank.  The  station  is  on  the  left  bank,  near  the  bridge. 
113  M.  Trlves,  see  p.  169. 


The  Voloanic  Eifel. 

Fbom  the  Eifel  Railway.  With  the  aid  of  the  railway  described  in 
this  route  the  finest  points  in  this  very  interesting  district  may  be  most 
conveniently  visited  as  follows:  1st  Day.  Railway  to  HilleBheim  or  Oerol- 
ttein  rp.  19i);  walk  by  Beioingen  or  Pelm  to  the  Catielburg  in  IV2  hr. 
(p.  IM)  5  walk  or  drive  to  Dauriy  10  M.  5  ascend  the  Erensberg  and  the 
Scharteherg  by  the  way,  if  time  permit.  —  2nd  Day.  Walk  by  OemUnden, 
the  Daimer  Maare^  and  the  M&useberg  to  Oilleti/eld ,  in  2V4  hrs. ;  to  the 
Pulvermaar  and  back,  V4  br.*,  Strohn^  Bprink^  IV4  hr.  j  by  the  Belvedere  to 
Manderscheidy  2V4  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  Walk  over  the  Mosenberg  to  Bettenfeld, 
IV2  hr. ;  to  EiBengchmift,  IVa  hr.  \  walk  or  drive  to  Himmeroth,  Grosslitgen^ 
and  (9  M.)  WittUch  (p.  184),  which  Is  2  M.  ft-om  the  station  of  that  name 
on  the  Moselle  railway.  —  Travellers  who  have  not  visited  Kyllburg 
should  proceed  thither  from  Eisenschmitt. 

F&OM  THE  Moselle  Railway  the  Eifel  is  best  explored  as  follows: 
1st  Day.  From  BuUay  to  the  Marienburg  (p.  185) ,  20  min. ;  A{f  (p.  185), 
Vi  hr.  5  Berfrich,  2  hrs.  ^  environs  of  Bertrich.  —  2nd  Day.  To  ffontheim, 
9/4  hr.  i  atrotzbUschy  I'/a  hr. ;  walk  to  Sirohn^  and  visit  to  environs,  IV4  br. ; 
Oillen/eldy  1/2  1^'m  hy  Eckfeld  and  the  Belvedere  to  Jfanderscheid ^  2  hrs.; 
the  ascent  of  the  Mosenberg  may  be  added.  —  3rd  Day.  Walk  by  Bleek- 
hausen  and  (6  M.)  Uedersdor/  (route  as  far  as  this  uninteresting)  to  Daun, 
4  hrs. ;  afternoon ,  environs  of  Daun.  —  4th  Day.  By  the  Erensberg  or 
the  Scharieberg  to  Palm,  4  hrs.;  by  the  Casselburg  to  Qerolstein,  IV4  hr. 
—  5th  Day.    To  Kyllburg,  where  the  railway  is  reached. 

The  Eifel  is  a  mountainous  district  situated  between  the  Moselle,  the 

Babdekbb's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  13 


194     BouUSe,  BERTRICH.  Eifd, 

Bhine,  and  the  Roer,  about  45  H.  in  leneth,  and  24  M.  in  breadth.  The 
E.  part  is  called  the  Hohe  Eifely  near  Adenau  and  Kelberg,  and  com- 
prises the  Hohe  Acht  (2410  ft.)  p.  89),  the  Nurburg  (2181ft.;  p.  89),  the 
Aremberg  (p.  89),  and  the  Erensberg  (2267  ft.;  p.  191);  the  W.  part  is  the 
Bchnei/el  {i.e.  Schnee-Eifel),  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Prum  (p.  192);  and 
the  8.  part  is  the  Vorder  -  Eifel  y  or  Volcanic  Eifely  extending  as  far  as 
the  Rhine  (Laacher  See.  p.  92),  and  embracing  Gerolstein,  Daun,  Mander- 
scheid  (p.  198),  and  Berinch  (see  below).  The  district,  though  somewhat 
bleak  and  barren,  is  very  picturesque  at  places,  especially  in  the  Vorder- 
Eifel.  The  latter  is  also  very  interesting  in  a  geological  point  of  view 
owing  to  the  numerous  traces  it  bears  of  former  volcanic  action,  such 
as  the  streamsof  lava,  slag-hills,  'Uaare',  or  extinct  craters  iilled  with  wa- 
ter, £c.  —  The  Inn»  are  unpretending,  but  as  a  rule  comfortable  and 
moderate  (B.,  8.,  &  B.  about  3  m.). 

From  Alp  (p.  185)  to  Bbrtrich,  4^2  M.,  omnibus  seyeral 
times  daily  (faie  1  m. ;  one-horse  carr.  5,  two-horse  from  8  m.,  fee 
extra).  The  road  leads  at  first  through  the  romantic  Valley  of  the 
Alf^  and  then  at  (1^2  M.)  a  disused  iron  rolling-mill ,  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  IJtsbach.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  lie  the  ruins  of  Burg 
ArraSf  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  in  938 
for  a  charcoal-burner  and  his  two  sons,  who  had  distinguished  them- 
selves by  their  courage  in  the  destruction  of  a  band_^of  Hungarians. 

Bertrioh  (525  ft. ;  *FitZj  next  door  to  the  Curhaus,  D.  2^/2  m. ; 
*Adler,  D.  2  m.;  *KUring8y  D.  2  m. ;  *8chneiderj  unpretending,  D. 
1  m.  20  pf.),  a  watering-place,  delightfully  situated  in  a  secluded 
yalley,  and  visited  annually  by  1000  patients,  may  be  described  as 
a  kind  of  modified  Carlsbad,  the  waters  of  which  are  specially  effi- 
cacious in  gout,  rheumatism,  and  nervous,  liver,  and  bowel-com- 
plaints.  The  warm  springs  (90®  Fahr.)  contain  Glauber's  salt. 
Pleasant  walks  have  been  laid  out  in  all  directions.  On  the  Romer- 
kessel,  an  eminence  where  the  Roman  relics  now  in  the  garden  of 
the  bath-establishment  were  found,  is  a  small  Protestant  chapel. 

About  V2  ^-  ^  ^^3  ^*  0^  Bertrich  the  road  crosses  the  Uesbach 
to  the  Elfenmuhle.  Ascending  to  the  left  before  reaching  the  mill, 
and  after  20  paces  following  the  lower  path  to  the  right ,  we  reach 
the  *K&skeller  (^cheese-cellar^,  a  grotto  composed  of  basaltic  col- 
umns, each  formed  of  8  or  9  spheroids,  resembUng  Dutch  cheeses. 
Near  it  is  a  scanty  Waterfall,  16  ft.  in  height.  A  basaltic  stream  of 
lava  is  visible  in  several  places  in  the  bed  of  the  Uesbach. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  the  Kaskeller  to  the  (1  hr.)  Ifan- 
tersburg;  thence  to  the  (IV2  hr.)  *E5delheck  (1584  ft. ;  refreshments  at  the 
adjacent  forester'^s) ,  which  commands  an  extensive  panorama^  and  lastly 
to  the  (V2  hr.)  *'Reinhard*ltut,  on  the  patii  leading  from  the  Bddelheck  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Uesbach  (see  above). 

If  we  follow  the  new  road  to  Lutzerath  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Uesbach 
as  far  as  the  kilometre-stone  9.29,  in  a  part  of  the  valley  called  the  Maisch- 
tviese,  diverge  here  to  the  right  by  the  old  road,  and  pass  to  the  left  of 
the  Maischquelle  y  we  reach  (in  'A  hr.  from  the  Grotto)  the  ^Falkenlei 
(1315  ft.) ,  a  semi-conical  hill ,  the  S.  side  of  which  is  a  precipice  170  ft. 
in  height,  exhibiting  the  geological  formation  of  the  interior.  At  the 
bottom  lie  solid  masses  of  lava ;  at  the  top  scoriee  and  slag.  Kumerous 
caves  and  clefts  have  been  formed  in  the  rock,  in  which  the  temperature 
seldom  exceeds  48*  Fahr.  The  rocks  are  thiclcly  covered  with  yellowish 
red  moss  and  lichens.    The  summit  affords  an  extensive  view  of  the  vol- 


Eifd.  WABTESBERQ.  26,  Rotite.     195 

c&nic  peaks  of  the  Eifel  \  the  highest  are  the  Hohe  Acht  (p.  89),  the  Niir- 
burg  (p.  89),  with  a  tower  on  its  summit,  and  the  Hohe  Kelberg^  to  the 
"S.W.  the  prospect  is  circumscribed  by  the  long  isolated  ridge  of  the 
Hosenberg  (p.  196),  a  little  to  the  left  of  which  rises  the  Nerother  Kopf 
with  its  ruin  (p.  196).  A  very  steep  path  descends  to  the  high-road  on 
the  side  of  the  hill  opposite  to  that  by  which  we  ascended.  Following 
the  road  to  the  right,  we  reach  OA  M.)  Kenn/us  and  (3  H.)  Lntserath 
(12B6  ft.),  a  post-station  on  the  Coblens  and  Treves  road.  Diligence  twice 
daily  between  Lutzerath  and  Alf  ri2  M.),  via  Bertrich. 

A  road  passing  the  KdskelUr  (see  p.  194)  leads  to  the  W.  to 
(2  M.)  Hontheim  (Zum  Bad  Bertrich) ,  whence  footpaths  lead  to 
(3V2  ^0  Schutsalf,  a  hamlet  in  the  Alfihdl.  We  then  ascend  the 
pictniesqae  valley,  which  here  forms  a  deep  cutting  through  the  lava 
rocks  and  is  sometimes  called  the  'Strohn  Switzerland',  to  Sprink 
and  (40  min.)  Strolui.  (Another  path  from  Hontheim  to  Strohn 
leads  by  Strotzbuseh  and  Trautzberg  in  2  hrs.)  On  the  E.  side  of 
the  Alfthal,  between  Sprink  and  Strohn,  rises  the  Wartesberg 
(1597  ft.) ,  one  of  the  largest  slag-hills  of  the  Eifel,  and  probably 
an  extinct  crater,  althoagh  not  now  distinguishable  as  such.  From 
Strohn  we  ascend  the  valley  to  (V2  l^r.)  Oillenfeld  (p.  197). 


Fbom  Obbolstbik  to  Daun,  131/2^*  T^^  ^o&d  traverses  a 
district  of  great  geological  interest,  about  60  sq.  M.  in  area,  ex- 
tending N.W.  as  far  as  Hillesheim  (p.  191)  and  Stelflen,  and  from 
the  former  towards  the  S.,  down  the  Kyllthal  to  Birresborn  (p.  192), 
to  the  E.  to  Daun  (p.  196),  and  again  to  the  N.  to  Dockweiler  and 
Drels  (p.  191).  Proofs  of  volcanic  action ,  which  are  more  nume- 
rous here  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  Eifel ,  are  afforded  by  pre- 
served craters ,  or  portions  of  craters ,  overflowed  by  masses  of  slag 
and  streams  of  lava  overlying  the  grauwacke  and  limestone-rocks, 
and  by  conical  basaltic  formations  which  protrude  from  the  surround- 
ing rocks.  The  scenery  of  the  lower  part  only  of  the  valley  of  the 
Kyll  is  picturesque,  but  this  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Pelm  and  the  Ccuaelburg^  see  p.  191.  The  old  road  (see  below) 
leaves  the  Kyllthal  here.  The  new  road  follows  it  a  little  farther, 
and  then  gradually  ascends ,  passing  near  Rockeskyll ,  and  by  the 
villages  of  Esaingen,  Hohenfela,  which  lies  in  the  basin  of  a  crater 
surrounded  by  precipitous  walls  of  slag,  and  Betteldorf  to  Dockweiler 
(8  M.  from  Gerolstein),  where  it  joins  the  road  coming  from  Hilles- 
heim (6  M. ;  comp.  p.  191). 

The  old  road,  rougher,  bat  more  interesting  than  the  new, 
ascends  to  the  right  from  Pelm,  and  reaches  its  highest  point 
at  KirchweHcTf  whence  the  Erensberg  to  the  N.  (p.  191)  and  the 
Scharteberg  (2158ft.)  to  the  S.,  both  extinct  craters,  the  latter 
most  distinctly  recognisable,  may  be  ascended.  The  summit  of  the 
latter  consists  of  blistered  masses  of  slag  which  surround  the  circu- 
lar crater.  About  100  ft.  below  the  summit  begin  the  lava  streams 
which  descend  towards  the  N.,  S.,  and  E.  The  last  of  these,  al- 
though almost  everywhere  covered  with  'rapilli'  (or  *lapilli',  small 

13* 


196     R0UU26,  DAUN.  EifeL 

round  aodules  of  lava)  and  volcanic  sand ,  la  traceable  by  the  occa- 
atonal  protrusion  of  the  rock  through  its  superficial  covering ,  and 
may  be  examined  in  the  quarries  worked  in  it  in  the  direction  of 
Steinbomf  where  a  transverse  section  of  two  streams  lying  one 
above  the  other  is  exposed  to  view  ^near  a  mound  of  earth  by  the  road 
side).  The  lowest  stratum  consists  of  porous  and  but  slightly  deft 
basaltic  lava ;  above  it  lies  slag,  3-4  ft.  in  thickness ;  next  comes 
a  layer  of  rapilli  and  volcanic  sand ;  and  finally ,  next  the  surface, 
basaltic  lava  again  (comp.  p.  93).  A  little  farther  S.  is  the  Nerother 
Kopf  (2060  ft.),  a  hill  of  slag  crowned  with  a  ruined  castle,  4Y2  M. 
to  the  W.  of  Daun.  Beyond  Kirchweiler  the  hilly  road  to  Daun 
next  passes  Steihbom ,  where  there  is  a  mineral  spring  (to  the  left 
the  Felsberg,  to  the  right  the  Rimmeriehj  two  craters  with  lava- 
streams),  and  Neunkirchen. 

Baun.  —  Hotels.    *Gbbthen;   *Hohics8,   B.   60  pf.,  D.  IV2-2  m.; 

SOHKAim. 

Oarriage  to  Gerolstein,  Mandencheid,  or  Lutseratb,  10>12m.  —  Dili- 
gence twice  daily  to  (14  H.)  Gerolstein,  once  to  (lOVs  M.)  Handerscheid, 
once  to  (15  H.)  Lutzerath,  etc. 

Daun  (1230  ft.),  a  smaU  district-town ,  with  900  inhab.,  lies 
picturesquely  in  the  valley  of  the  Lieser^  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  which 
is  crowned  with  the  remains  of  the  old  Sehloss  of  the  Counts  of 
Daun,  a  celebrated  family,  several  members  of  which  distinguished 
themselves  in  the  Austrian  service.  The  castle  was  stormed  in  1352 
by  Baldwin  of  Treves  and  William  of  Oologne.  The  modern  build- 
ing on  the  hill ,  which  was  formerly  occupied  by  a  bailiff  of  the 
Elector  of  Treves,  is  now  the  chief  forester's  residence.  Adjoining 
it  is  the  modern  Protestant  Church.  The  Roman  Catholie  Church, 
in  the  village,  contains  two  painted  coats-of-arms  of  the  Counts  of 
Daun.    Several  mineral  springs  in  the  neighbourhood. 

About  Vs  H.  to  the  K.E.  of  Daun  rises  tbe  Fftrmerieh  (1614  ft.),  the 
abrupt  margin  of  a  crater  covered  with  slag.  The  crater  itself,  which  is 
filled  with  volcanic  ashes,  is  easily  distinguished  from  the  surrounding 
masses  of  lava.  The  Dauner  Leyen,  a  broad  stream  of  lava,  descends  from 
it  towards  the  W.  The  eminent  geologist  Dechen  (p.  93)  is  of  opinion 
that  the  columnar  lava  on  which  the  castle  of  Daun  stands  belongs  to  this 
stream,  that  a  passage  was  forced  through  it  by  the  Lieser  at  a  later 
period ,  and  that  the  picturesque  rocks  of  the  Leyen  and  those  near  the 
castle  were  thus  exposed  to  view.  —  About  7  M.  to  the  K.E.  of  Daun  lies 
the  Uelmener  Maar^  13  acres  in  area,  with  the  village  and  ruined  castle 
of  Uelmen  (*Franzen). 

To  the  S. W.  of  Daun  rises  the  Wehrbiiseh  (1565  fl.),  another  lava-hill, 
crowned  with  a  conspicuous  monument  to  the  natives  of  the  district  of 
Daun  who  fell  in  the  war  of  1870-71. 

To  the  N.W.  of  Daun  is  the  Warth  (1623  ft.).  The  Nerother  Kopf 
mentioned  above,  is  4  H.  to  the  N.W. 

The  •Dauneb  Maabb  ,  or  crater-lakes  of  Daun  (comp.  p.  197), 
lie  21/2 --^  M.  to  the  S.  of  Daun  in  an  extensive  bed  of  vol- 
canic deposits,  consisting  of  scoriae,  rapilli,  and  occasional  strata  of 
volcanic  tufa.  We  descend  the  valley  of  the  Lieser  by  the  road 
to  (11/2  M.)  Oemunden;  here  (guide  advisable)  we  diverge  from  the 
-oad  to  the  left,  and  in  a  few  minutes  reach  the  Oemiinder  Maar 


EifeL  GILLBNFELD.  26,  Route.     197 

(1358  ft.),  126  ft.  above  the  village.  This  is  the  smallest  of  the  crater- 
lakes  of  the  Eifel.  It  lies  in  a  deep  and  partly-wooded  basin,  and 
is  about  18  acres  in  area  and  200  ft.  in  depth.  On  the  £.  bank  of  the 
lake  rises  the  precipitous,  and  barren  "IK&nseberg  (1844  ft.),  which 
maybe  ascended  f rom  Gemiinden  in  V2^^-;  and  commands  a  very  fine 
view  of  a  great  part  of  the  Eifel.  The  E.  slope  of  the  hill  descends 
abruptly  to  the  Weinf elder  Maar  (1568  ft.),  another  of  these  crater- 
lakes,  40  acres  in  area,  and  220  ft.  in  depth. —  On  the  N.  bank  of 
the  lake  rises  the  Weinfelder  Kirehe  (1686  ft.),  the  only  relic  of  the 
village  of  Weinfeld ,  now  used  as  a  burial-chapel  for  the  ceme- 
tery of  Schalkenmehren  (see  below).  The  traveller  should  now 
follow  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake  and  traverse  the  natural  barrier 
which  separates  the  Weinfelder  Maar  from  the  Schalkenmehrer 
Maar  (1384  ft.),  the  third  of  the  lakes  of  Daun ,  55  acres  in  area, 
and  100  ft.  in  depth,  drained  on  the  S.  side  by  the  Alfbach(ip,  194). 
The  bed  of  peat  on  the  E.  side  is  believed  by  geologists  to  be  the 
site  of  a  stfll  older  crater,  which  was  afterwards  partly  filled  in 
consequence  of  an  eruption  from  the  crater  now  occupied  by  the 
lake.  This  Maar,  unlike  the  two  already  mentioned,  is  well  stocked 
with  fish  and  crayfish.  At  the  S.  end  lies  the  village  of  Schalken- 
mehren (Inn,  very  poor),  3^2  ^*  from  Daun,  and  the  same  dis- 
tance from  Gillenfeld. 

A  hilly  and  shadeless  road  leads  from  Schalkenmehren,  follow- 
ing the  direction  of  the  Alfbach,  but  at  some  distance  from  the 
brook,  and  passing  through  several  curiously-formed  basins,  to  the 
villages  of  Saxler  and  OiUenfeld  (1335  ft. ;  Claaen,  D.  2m.),  the 
latter  of  which  was  almost  totally  destroyed  by  fire  in  1876.  The 
*FiilV6rmaar(1348ft.),  the  most  beautiful  and,  after  the  Laacher  See 
(p.  93),  the  largest  of  these  crater-lakes,  90  acres  in  area,  and  300ft. 
deep,  lies  in  a  picturesque  basin  fringed  with  woods  on  a  hill  about 
1  M.  to  the  E.  of  Gillenfeld.  The  banks  consist  of  volcanic  sand, 
tufa,  and  scoriae.  On  the  S.  side  rises  the  Romerslerg  (1565  ft.),  a 
considerable  rock  composed  of  slag,  at  the  S.  foot  of  which,  scarcely 
1/2  M.  from  the  Pulvermaar,  lies  the  small  Sirohner  Maar.  —  In 
the  Alfthal,  IV2M.  to  the  S.  of  Gillenfeld,  lies  8trohn,  see  p.  195. 

From  Gillbnfbld  to  Mandbabchbid,  6  M.  The  road  leads 
past  the  Durre  Maar^  with  fine  vegetation,  and  the  Holzmaar^  two 
very  small  lakes,  and  by  the  villages  of  Eckfeld  and  Buchholz. 
Near  the  church  of  the  latter  village  is  a  finger-post  pointing  out 
the  way  to  the  right,  through  wood,  to  the  ^Belvedere ,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  points  near  Manderscheid,  which  affords  a  striking 
view  of  the  castles  of  Manderscheid  rising  from  the  valley  below, 
with  the  Mosenberg  and  other  hills  in  the  background.  An  easy 
path,  provided  with  direction-posts,  and  reached  by  retracing  our 
steps  for  a  few  yards  from  the  Belvedere,  descends  the  ravine'  in 
windings ,  joining  the  road  near  the  bridge  over  the  Lieser.  The 
path  and  the  bridge  afford  very  picturesque  views.   (A  precipitous 


198     BouU2e.  MANDEBSGHBII).  Eifd. 

path  leads  dixeot  from  the  Belvedero  down  the  ravine  to  the  Lieser, 
which  can  be  crossed  by  means  of  stepping  -  stones  if  the  water  is 
low ;  it  then  ascends,  passing  the  more  modern  of  the  two  castles, 
with  a  line  Tiew,  direct  to  Obermandersoheid.)  The  Tempelchen, 
near  Manderscheid,  commands  a  fine  -view. 

Fbom  Daun  to  If  andkhsghsid,  direct  fdiligenoe  daily).  The  road  de- 
scends the  valley  of  the  Lieser,  passing  (iVs  HO  OemUnden  (p.  196)  and 
(1V»  M.)  Weyerthach.  On  the  right  side  of  the  valley,  farther  on,  rise  lofty 
and  imposing  masses  of  lava,  almost  entirely  encircling  the  village  of  (IVs  M.) 
Uedertdor/y  which  lies  286  ft.  above  the  Lieser.  They  are  believed  to 
have  owed  their  origin  partly  to  a  volcano  to  the  S.  of  Uedersdorf,  which 
culminates  in  the  Weberlei  (1528  ft.)i  &  slag- hill  near  the  valley  of  the 
KUine  Kyll^  and  partly  to  a  volcanic  mountain  (1770  fl)  rising  towards 
the  N.W.  The  last  part  of  the  road,  after  it  has  quitted  the  Lieserthal, 
is  uninteresting;  3  H.  Bleek?iavten^  3  V.  Manderscheid. 

Hftndersoheid  (1214  ft. ;  *Fi8cher ;  *Zcns ;  carriages  for  hire 
at  both),  a  village  of  some  Importance,  lies  on  a  lofty  plain  between 
the  Lieser  and  the  Kleine  Kyll.  On  the  S.  side,  in  a  singularly 
picturesque  situation,  are  two  ^Castles^  perched  on  jagged  slate- 
rocks  rising  precipitously  from  the  Lieser,  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
Counts  of  Manderscheid  who  became  extinct  in  1780.  Pleasant 
walk  to  the  'Constantinswaldchen'  (there  and  back  ^j^  hr.),  which 
affords  a  line  view. 

Travellers  who  wish  to  visit  the  above-mentioned  Belvedere  (35  min.) 
take  the  new  footpath  to  the  left,  immediately  beyond  the  bridge  over 
the  Lieser,  which  ascends  the  ravine  and  passes  the  ruins. 

From  Manderscheid  by  Schwarzenborn  (see  below)  to  Kyllburg^  15  M. ; 
diligence  once  daily  in  3«/4  hrs.  5  to  WittUch  (p.  184),  12»/2  M.,  daily  in 
31/2  hours. 

The  most  interesting  volcanic  mountain  of  the  Eifel  is  the  three- 
peaked  MosBNBBBO,  1  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Manderscheid.  We  first 
follow  the  Bettenfeld  road  (see  below),  cross  the  KUine  Kyll^  and 
take  a  path  to  the  left  at  the  second  bend. 

The  "Rosenberg  (1719  ft.)  is  a  long  hill  of  lava  extending  from 
N.  to  S.)  with  four  craters,  the  lava- walls  of  which  rise  fantastically 
to  a  height  of  50  ft.  The  basalt  and  slag  which  form  the  summit 
have  here  protruded  250  ft.  through  the  grauwacke.  The  N.  crater, 
formerly  filled  with  water,  was  drained  in  1846 ,  and  now  yields 
peat.  The  huge  lava -stream  which  has  issued  from  an  opening  in 
the  S.  crater  may  be  traced  as  far  as  the  (3/4  M.)  Homgraben  (foot- 
path), where  it  reaches  the  Kleine  Kyllj  and  rises  in  perpendicular 
lava-cliffs  100  ft.  in  height.  The  hill  is  surrounded  with  beds  of 
slag  and  scorias,  and  is  but  scantily  covered  with  grass.  View  very 
extensive.  A  new  footpath  diverges  to  the  right  about  1  M.  below 
Manderscheid,  passes  the  Homgraben,  and  leads  through  the  Kyll- 
thai  to  the  road  near  Neumiihlen. 

On  a  lofty  plain,  i  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Mosenberg,  lies  Bettenfeld 
iOierder^  clean  and  moderate) ,  whence  a  path  leads  to  (IV4  hr.)  Eisen- 
schmitt  (see  below).  The  Kyllburg  road  leads  straight  from  Bettenfeld  to 
the  S.  W.  through  forest,  crossing  two  other  roads,  and  after  s/4  hr.  descends 
into  the  Salmthal  to  the  right.  The  (li/z  hr.)  ComeihiUte  lies  on  the  right. 
We  then  cross  a  small  bridge ,  pass  a  stone  cross ,  ascend  a  steep  path 
through  wood,  reach  another  cross-road  (guide-post),  and  in  >/«  br.  come 


EifeL  GROSS-LITTGEN.  26.  Route.     199 

to  Ober-KttU  (*D{edenhofen),  with  the  scanty  remains  of  a  caatle .  said 
to  have  been  erected  by  Maria  Theresa.  Thence  a  good  high-road  leads 
to  (4V«  M.)  KyUburg  (p.  192). 

About  1V«  M.  to  the  l^T.  of  the  Hosenberg  lies  the  Meerfelder  Maar, 
formerly  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Eifel  lakes,  now  almost  entirely  drained. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  tfaar  is  the  village  of  Meer/eld. 

From  the  Mosenberg  a  path  to  the  S.  descends  into  the  valley  to 
the  Neumuhl  (3  M.),  where  the  Kleine  Kyll  falls  into  the  Lieser^ 
and  here  reaches  the  road  whioh  descends  in  numerous  windings 
from  (2^2  M.)  Manderscheid.  The  scenery  of  the  valley  here  is  pictur- 
esque and  imposing  (path,  see  above').  The  road  then  winds  up  the 
left  bank  of  the  stream,  and  after  1  M.  divides.  The  road  to  the 
right  leads  tlirough  wood  to  (2^2  M.)  EUenschmitt  (Jung)  and 
(1  Y2^> ;  steep  footpath  in  20  min.)  Schwarzenbom  (Zens),  whence 
a  dLlligence  runs  twice  daily  (seats  not  always  obtainable)  to  KyU- 
burg (6V2  M. ;  p.  192). 

The  branch  of  the  road  which  at  the  above-mentioned  bifurcation 
turns  to  the  left  soon  descends  from  the  wood  into  the  valley,  and  passes 
the  EiehelMUfe  and  the  buildings  of  the  Benedictine  abbey  of  Simmerody 
founded  by  St.  Bernard  of  Clairvaux  in  1139;  the  church  was  unfortun- 
ately almost  entirely  removed  at  the  beginning  of  this  century.  The  road 
then  leads  through  a  bleak  and  hilly  district  to  (47?  H.)  OroM-Litgen 
(Heck)^  where  it  unites  with  the  Wittlich  and  Kyllburg  road,  which  as- 
cends towards  the  E.  The  country  becomes  more  fertile.  Beyond  (2V4  M.) 
Minder -Litgen  (1151  ft.),  whence  a  good  retrospect  of  the  Hosenberg  is 
enjoyed,  the  road  descends  into  the  valley  in  windings,  but  a  footpath 
Vs  H.  from  the  village  cute  off  nearly  half  the  circuit  of  3  H.  which  the 
road  describes.  The  ^View  over  the  rich  plain  sloping  towards  the  Mo- 
selle, and  the  mountains  of  the  latter,  rendered  more  picturesque  by  the 
red  sandstone  which  here  supersedes  the  grauwacke,  forms  a  pleasant 
conclusion  to  the  tour. 

WitUich,  see  p.  184. 

27.  From  Coblenz  to  Wetzlar. 
Ems  and  the  Valley  of  the  Lahn. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  100. 

64  M.  Railway  by  Uiederlahnstein  to  Em«  in  Va-^A  hr.  (fares  1  m.  50, 
1  m.,  70  pf.),  to  Wetxlar  in  2V2-3V2  hrs.  (8  m.  40,  6  m.  30,  4  m.  20  pf.»; 
express  9  m.  40  pf. ,  7  m.).  Nauau  and  the  district  as  far  as  Schaumburg, 
Limhurg,  WeUburg  and  Wetzlar y  are  the  most  picturesque  points. 

[The  Rhenish  railway  is  not  in  direet  connection  with  the  Lahn  Valley 
railway,  but  travellers  from  Coblenz  by  the  former  line  reach  the  latter 
at  liiederlahnstein  (p.  97),  where  they  change  carriages.  Travellers  arriving 
at  Coblenz  by  the  railway  of  the  Left  Bank,  or  at  Ehrenbreitstein  by  the 
railway  of  the  Right  Bank,  may  either  drive  to  the  Hoselbahnhof,  or  take 
the  train  to  Niederlahnstein  and  there  await  the  train  for  the  Lahn  Valley.] 

The  train,  starting  from  the  Moselbahnhof,  crosses  the  Rhine  by 
the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  98,  and  passes  through  a  cutting  on  the 
landward  side  of  Horchhelm  (comp.  p.  130). 

3  M.  Niederlahnstein  (p.  101 ;  railway  restaur.))  the  junction 
of  the  Staatsbahn  with  the  Rhenish  railway  from  Ehrenbreitstein 
and  the  Railway  of  the  Right  Bank  (for  Wiesbaden^  p.  130).  Tra- 
vellers for  these  lines  change  carriages. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  AUerheiligenberg  (p.  101),  affording 


200    Route  27.  EMS.  From  Cobhnt 

a  fine  view  of  Lahneck  (p.  103)  to  the  right.  It  then  crosses  the 
Lahn ,  and  ascends  on  the  left  bank,  where  the  line  from  Ober- 
lahnstein  (p.  103)  is  joined.  Seyeral  Ironworks  are  observed.  The 
river  is  provided  with  numerons  locks  to  facilitate  the  navigation 
of  the  barges  which  convey  to  the  Rhine  the  ores  yielded  by  this 
district.  —  6  M.  Friedrichasegerif  the  station  for  the  lead  and  silver 
mines  of  the  same  name ,  which  lie  near  Friicht  (p.  203),  in  a 
side  valley,  about  I72  M.  to  the  east.  Ems  only  becomes  visible 
when  the  train  is  close  to  the  town.  The  Four  Towers  and  the  Cur- 
saal  with  its  pleasure-grounds  are  the  most  conspicuous  objects. 

12^2^^'  Ems.  —  Hotels  (most  open  in  summer  only).  *1Snoli8Chss  Hof, 
at  the  lower  end ;  ^Rubsisobsb  Hop,  in  the  centre  of  the  town ;  *Vier 
Jaebbszeitkn  HdTXL  A  Eubopaisohbb  Hof.  near  the  Gursaal ;  ^Dabmstadtih 
Hof,  near  the  bridge  and  the  railway-station,  B.  &  L.  3,  B  lUi  m.,  A.  60^.  5 
these  all  of  the  first  class.  H6tel  Bristol,  near  the  Four  Towers  (p.  afe). 
—  •HdTEL  DE  Flamdke  ;  *H6tel  Guttenbebq,  R.  2V«  m.,  L.  50,  A.  50,  B. 
1  m.  20  pf. ;  "HdTKL  db  Fbanob  ,  with  the  d^pendance  Be?weigerthal  and 
a  garden,  open  in  winter  also,  R.  2-4,  A.  V<]  ^*  IV^t  ^-  3i  Opens'  6-9  m.  \ 
these  three  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn,  near  the  station.  *Weilbubger 
Hof,  moderate;  Godeke,  with  good  garden-restanrant,  near  the  old  bridge 
over  the  Lahn,  D.  2^/4  m. ;  *Haimau,  plain,  'pens',  from  41/2  m.  \  Spobkek- 
bubg,  Rhbinisgheb  Hof  (moderate),  in  the  village  of  Ems. 

There  are  also  numerous  Lodging  Homes  and  Private  Hotels,  most  of 
which  also  receive  passing  travellers.  Those  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
are  preferable  in  the  height  of  summer,  owing  to  their  shady  situation. 
Some  of  them  are  very  comfortably  flttea  up.  The  more  remote  houses 
are  of  course  the  least  expensive.  Breakfast  and  tea  are  provided  at  all 
of  these,  but  dinner  more  rarely.  The  most  important  is  the  Cubhaus, 
with  several  dependencies ,  where  prices  are  fixed  by  tari£f.  Others  are 
the  Bbaunschweigbr  Hof  ;  Pbincb  of  Walbs  &  Rohebbad  ;  Vibb  Thubme  ; 
ScHLOss  Langenau,  ^pens.'  41/2-8  m.  according  to  the  season,  well  spoken 
of;  Johannisbebg ;  Goldene  Tbaubb;  Stadt  Stbassbubg-,  Roth;  Tilla 
Bella  Riva;  Wilhelmsburg  ;  Britannia  and  Villa  &  Pavillon  Mon- 
bepos,  well  spoken  of;  Villa  Reale;  Schloss  Balmobal  and  Villa 
Diana  ;  Weissbs  Ross  ;  Ritzhann.  Charges  are  somewhat  high  at  Ems,  as 
at  all  the  principal  watering-places,  but  have  sunk  a  little  lately  and  are 
reduced  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  season. 

Restaurants  and  Oaf^s.  Cvrhaug^  with  table  d'hdte,  and  Cursaal,  both 
of  the  first  class ;  Villa  B^riot^  with  a  garden,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn ;  Ca/d  Walter^  at  the  station ;  also  at  all  the  hotels.  Schtceizer- 
hauschen^  halfway  up  the  hill  on  the  left  bank;  Silberau^  at  the  end  of 
the  Konig-Wilhelms-Allee ;  Lindenbach  (p.  202),  V/4  M.  from  the  Cursaal. 
Wine  at  the  Wilhelmsburg  (see  above),  with  a  room  in  the  old  German  style. 

Beer  in  the  gardens  of  the  Cursaal,  at  the  Ldwe  (with  rooms  to 
let,  plain  but  comfortable),  ffdtel  Gddeke  (see  above),  Goldne  Fass,  Schiltzen- 
ho/,  Cafi  Alemannia,  etc. 

Oarriages  with  one  mule  2  m.,  with  two  3  m.  per  hour.  A  drive 
within  the  precincts  of  the  town  70  pf.,  after  9  p.m.  U/2  m. ;  carriage  with 
one  horse  to  Kloster  Arnstein  and  back,  iOVa  m.,  with  two  horses  15  m. ; 
to  Coblenz  10  or  15 ,  and  back  12  or  18  m. ;  to  Ehrenbreitstein  8  or  12, 
and  back  12  or  17  m. ;  to  Eemmenau  and  back  7V2  or  11  m. ;  to  Nieder- 
Lahnstein  6  or  9 ,  Ober  -  Lahnstein  7  or  11  m. ;  to  Kassau  and  back  6  or 
10  m.  —  The  drivers  must  exhibit  their  tariff  when  desired. 

Donkeys  or  Mules  per  hour  IV2  m..  Horses  21/4  m. ;  to  the  Oberlahn- 
stein  Forsthaus  direct  (and  back,  including  a  stay  of  1  hr.)  21/2  m. ;  to  the 
Sporkenburg  21/2  m.;  Eemmenauer  Hohe2V2m. ;  Mooshiitte  1  m.,  summit 
of  the  same  2  m.;  by  the  new  promenade  to  the  Lindenbach  IV2  m.  Horse 
in  each  case  about  1/2  m.  more.  —  All  these  charges  include  the  return- 
route. 


jCoVleM 


,$;.\(iOiHi'HT':v 


BritlibAdi '  I  '. 


to  Wetxlar.  EMS.  27.  Route,     201 

Xarifli  of  the  various  charges ,  fares ,  and  fees  may  be  purchased  for 
20  i^.  —  A  tax  of  16  m.  is  levied  on  each  single  patient  after  a  stay  of  a 
week ;  for  2  pers.  21,  for  S  pers.  2f7  m.  —  The  charges  for  baths  vary  in  the 
diff'erent  houses  from  1  m.  to  3  m.  —  No  charge  is  made  for  drinking  the 
waters  at  the  thermal  springs ,  bat  a  fee  of  50  pf.  per  week  is  usually 
paid  to  the  girl  in  attendance. 

Xttsio  7-6.30  a.m.,  the  hours  during  which  the  waters  are  drunk  \ 
4  to  5.30  p.m.  in  the  public  grounds;  and  8  to  9.30  p.m.  in  the  Cursaal.  At 
the  latter  theatrical  performances  and  concerts  are  also  given. 

Post  and  Tele^aph  Office,  adjoining  the  Darmstadter  Hof,  near  the 
principal  bridge. 

EagUflh  Chvroli  Btrvioe  in  the  English  Church  on  the  left  bank  at  11 
a.m.  and  6  p.m.  (communion  at  8.80  a.m.).  Chaplain ,  Bev.  W.  0.  Par- 
minter,  of  Stuttgart. 

Em8  (242  ft.)  was  known  to  the  Romans ,  as  the  vases ,  coins, 
etc.,  found  in  the  vicinity,  prove,  but  is  mentioned  for  the  first 
time  as  a  warm  bath  in  a  document  of  1172.  It  is  now  visited  an- 
nually by  10-12,000  patients,  besides  5000  tourists,  while  in  1823 
the  number  was  1200  only.  The  height  of  the  season  is  from  the 
middle  of  July  to  the  end  of  August.  From  1803  to  1866  It  be- 
longed to  the  Duchy  of  Nassau,  and  is  now  Prussian.  It  is  a 
curious  fact ,  showing  to  what  an  extent  Germany  was  formerly 
subdivided ,  that  from  the  bridge  over  the  Lahn,  which  commands 
but  a  limited  view,  the  dominions  of  eight  different  indepen- 
dent princes  could  be  seen. 

The  town  (6730  inhab.,  y^  Rom.  Cath.)  is  prettily  situated  on 
both  banks  of  the  Lahn  in  a  narrow  valley ,  enclosed  by  wooded 
and  vine -clad  rocky  heights.  It  consists  of  a  street  of  lodging- 
houses  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the  original  ^Bad  Ems' ;  of 
a  new  quarter  on  the  left  bank,  named  ^8pie88-Em8\  with  numerous 
handsome  villas  at  the  base  of  the  Malberg ;  and  of  *Dorf  Bms\ 
or  the  old  village,  at  the  lower  end  of  'Bad  Ems'.  The  English 
Church  is  on  the  left  bank.  The  river  is  spanned  by  four  bridges. 
The  Cursaal,  the  Curhaus,  and  the  Cuboabtbn  adjoining  them 
form  the  great  centre  of  attraction  to  visitors,  the  pleasure-grounds 
of  the  latter  being  generally  thronged  with  a  fashionable  crowd  while 
the  band  plays  In  the  afternoon. 

The  Cnrhaiu,  erected  at  the  end  of  last  century,  and  frequently 
enlarged  since  then,  contains  the  most  important  springs  and  about 
60  baths,  the  best  of  which  are  on  the  first  floor.  In  the  arcades, 
which  were  extended  in  1854,  are  the  principal  springs  used  for 
drinking :  the  KesseWrunnen  (125**  Fahr.),  in  the  upper  arcade, 
and  the  Krdhnehen  (95-97®),  the  Furstenhrunnen  (102-104®),  and 
the  Kaiserquelle  (81® ;  the  pleasantest  to  drink)  in  the  lower.  The 
waters  are  chiefly  drunk  between  6  and  8  a.m.  —  The  Konig-Wil- 
helms^Felsen^Quelle,  the  Augusta-Quelltt  and  the  VicUma-Quelle^ 
IbXee  springs  discovered  In  1866-67,  in  the  court  of  the  NassauerHof, 
arsused  both  internally  and  externally.  The  bath-house  in  connection 
with  them  is  joined  by  covered  passages  with  the  Vier  Jahreszeiten 
Betel  and  the  Europaischer  Hof.    The  bath-house  Prince  of  Wales 


202     Route  27.  EMS.  From  CobUn* 

also  possesses  springs  of  its  own.  The  chief  ingredients  of  the  water, 
which  is  most  beneficial  in  female  and  pnlmonary  complaints,  are 
bi-carbonate  of  soda  and  chloride  of  sodium.  About  two  million 
bottles  are  exported  annually. 

The  Cnrsaal,  situated  in  the  Curgarten  and  erected  in  1839, 
is  connected  with  the  Gurhaus  by  means  of  a  tasteful  iron  Colon- 
nadCj  in  which  is  a  tempting  bazaar.  The  Gursaal  contains  several 
magnificent  saloons,  a  reading-room,  a  restaurant,  and  a  caf^,  which 
last,  with  its  numerous  tables  in  the  gardens  adjoining,  attracts 
crowds  of  after-dinner  loungers.    Music  in  the  evening. 

Near  the  pavilion  of  the  band,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Cur- 
garten, a  marble  slab  in  the  ground  indicates  the  spot,  where,  on 
13th  July,  1870,  King  William  ordered  his  adjutant  Count  Lehn- 
dorf  to  give  his  memorable  answer  to  the  obtrusive  French  am- 
bassador Benedetti.  A  covered  iron  bridge  connects  this  bank  of  the 
Lahn  with  the  new  bath-house  (see  below). 

In  the  shady  grounds  at  the  back  of  the  Cursaal  is  the  new 
Wandelbahn  (generally  called  the  Trinkhalle),  or  covered  prome- 
nade for  the  use  of  visitors  in  wet  weather.  On  the  Lahn,  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  park,  is  the  bath-house  of  the  Four  Towers  (Vier 
Thurmejy  built  at  the  end  of  last  century.  Adjacent  is  the  new 
Roman  Catholic  Churchy  near  which  an  iron  bridge  crosses  the  Lahn. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn,  near  the  iron  bridge,  and  also 
surrounded  by  pleasant  grounds ,  is  the  New  Bath  Honse  (Neue 
Badhaus),  erected  in  1853,  each  of  its  courts  being  embellished  with 
fountains  of  mineral  water  worked  by  steam.  The  baths  are  supplied 
from  the  copious  Neue  Quelle^  or  New  Spring ,  which  was  disclosed  in 
1850,  the  warmest  (135-137°)  of  all  the  waters  of  Ems. 

On  the  left  bank  there  are  also  shady  walks  skirting  the  river, 
the  chief  being  the  Kdnig-WUkelms-Alleej  on  which  is  a  Russian 
Chapel,  built  in  1876.  At  the  end  of  the  AUee  abridge  crosses  to  the 
right  bank  (Restaur.  Silberau ,  see  p.  200).  —  Beautiful ,  shady 
walks  intersect  the  slopes  of  the  wooded  Halberg ,  at  the  foot  of 
which  are  the  favourite  Schweizerhduschen  and  Villa  Beriot  caf^s, 
commanding  good  views.  The  top  of  the  hill,  called  the  Malbergs- 
kopfj  which  may  be  reached  in  3/^-1  hr.,  is  crowned  with  a  bel- 
vedere and  a  restaurant.  We  may  now  descend  by  the  Lindenhaeh 
(*Inn),  a  silver -mine,  I72  M.  below  Ems,  where  the  Lahn  is 
crossed  by  an  iron  bridge. 

The  nearer  peak  of  the  Winterberg  (Restaurant) ,  a  hill  on  the 
left  bank  to  the  E.  of  the  Malbergskopf ,  1/2  ^i*  ^^<>^  Ems,  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Lahn.  On  the  summit  is  a 
tower,  built  after  a  design  on  Trajan's  Column ,  on  the  foundations 
of  an  old  Roman  tower  which  formerly  stood  here.  The  Pfahlgraben 
(p.  225),  which  was  provided  at  intervals  with  similar  towers ,  is 
still  traceable  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn ,  immediately  above  the  high- 


to  Weizlar,  NASSAU.  27.  Route.     203 

road,  towers  the  abrupt  *B&derlei,  or  *8ieben  Kopfe\  a  jagged  rock 
of  slate  crowned  with  the  Concordia  Tkurm  (refreshments),  a  tower 
built  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  Halfway  up  is  the  ^Mooshiittey  a 
pavilion  eommanding  an  admirable  survey  of  Ems,  below  which  is 
a  monument  to  the  warriors  of  1870-71.  We  reach  the  summit 
in  3/4  hr.  by  following  the  Grabenstrasse,  above  the  Onrhans,  and 
then  ascending  by  the  broad  path  to  the  right. 

The  **  Xemmenaatr  H6he,  or  SeMne  Auttieht^  IVs  hr.  to  the  N.  of 
Ems,  may  either  be  reached  by  the  footpath  ascending  a  small  side-valley 
to  the  left  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Grabenstrasse ,  or  by  the  road  from 
the  lower  end  of  Dorf  Ems  (restaurant  at  the  top).  This  is  one  of  the 
highest  points  to  the  N.  of  the  Lahn,  and  commands  an  extensive  and 
interesting  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine ,  the  Taunus ,  and  the  Eifel 
Hts. ;  far  below  in  the  foreground  stands  the  castle  of  Sporkenbwg^  and 
to  the  right  rise  the  two  curious  trachytio  Artbaeher  Kdp/e.  An  equally 
fine  view  towards  theE.  is  obtained  from  the  neighbourhood  of  a  large  beech 
near  the  village  of  Kemmenau,  1  H.  to  the  K.,  on  the  way  to  Hontabaur. 

On  the  hill  between  Ems  and  Braubach  is  situated  the  village  of 
Frficht,  which  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  famous  Prussian  minister 
Baron  Stein  (d.  1831),  the  last  scion  of  a  noble  family  which  had  resided  on 
the  banks  of  the  Lahn  for  seven  centuries  (see  p.  204).  The  epitaph  contains 
a  tribute  to  the  upright  and  pious  character  of  the  deceased.  The  forester 
at  Friicht  keeps  the  kevs  of  the  chapel  (Vi-lV*  ™').  —  A  direct  road  leads 
from  Ems  to  Frneht  (3  M.);  or  we  may  descend  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn  to  MUllen  (2  H.)  and  ascend  thence  through  the  Sehtceizerthaly  a 
valley  with  beautiful  woods  and  picturesque  rocks,  to  Friicht  (V2  hr.); 
the  latter  route  is  specially  recommended  in  returning.  Friicht  lies  about 
1  H.  to  the  "S.  of  the  route  from  Ems  to  Braubach  mentioned  at  p.  105. 

Other  excursions  may  be  made  Ito  the  Lahnsteiner  Foriihaiu^  the  Cch- 
lenzer  Fortthaus^  to  Jfassau^  to  the  monastery  of  Aiiistein ,  the  castle  of 
Sehaumburgy  etc.  (see  below). 

Railway  to  Wbtzi.ab.  Leaving  Ems,  the  train  passes  Dcmse- 
nau  (Lahnthal),  on  the  right  bank,  with  an  ancient  octagonal 
tower,  and  still  surrounded  by  old  walls.  The  church  dates  from 
the  13th,  its  vestibule  from  the  15th  century.  Near  Nassau  we 
cross  the  Lahn. 

15^2  M.  (from  Coblenz)  Nassau.  —  Hotels.  ^Hullek,  at  the  sta- 
tion, R.  4t  B.  2Vz  m-;  Hotel  Nassau,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn, 
similar  charges;  Pension  Villa  Beilsteim,  board  3  m.,  B.  extra;  Kilp''s 
Private  Hotel. 

Beer  at  Klip's,  and  at  the  Bellevtie,  opposite  the  suspension-bridge. 

Hydropathie  and  Pine-Bath  Fttabliihrnenty  fto  the  W.,  on  the  road  to 
Ems,  *pens.''  with  medical  advice  51/2  m.,  B.  1-5  m.  per  day  extra. 

Donkey  from  the  suspension -bridge  to  Burg  Stein  70  pf.,  to  Burg 
Nassau  11(2  m. 

iVossau (265  ft.),  an  ancient  little  town,  believed  to  hare  existed 
as  early  as  790  under  the  name  of  Naaonga,  is  prettily  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn  (which  is  here  crossed  by  a  suspension- 
bridge),  and  is  much  frequented  by  summer  visitors.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  minister  Boron  i8ftein(d.  1831 ; 
see  above),  whose  family  had  resided  here  since  the  Idth  century. 
His  8chlo88,  though  modernised,  dates  from  1621,  and  now  belongs 
to  his  grand-daughter  the  Countess  Kielmannsegge.  In  1815  Stein 
caused  aGK)thic  tower  to  be  added  to  commemorate  the  war  of  inde- 


204     BovUS7.  AKNSTBIN.  From  CobUnz 

pendence.  This  was  a  favourite  resort  of  the  illiistrloas  proprietor, 
who  embellished  it  with  various  reminiscenees  of  that  eventful 
period.  Othersconnected  with  the  last  war  have  been  added.  (Visi- 
tors deposit  a  donation  for  a  charitable  purpose  in  a  box  at  the 
entrance.)  The  8cMo89park  U  open  to  the  public  daily,  except  Sun- 
days and  festivals,  8-12  a.m.  and  2-7  p.m. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Lahn  rises  a  wooded  eminence 
(ascended  from  the  station  in  25  min.),  crowned  by  the  ruined 
*CastIe  of  Naiian,  erected  in  1101  by  Dudo  lY.,  Count  of  Lauren- 
burg  (p.  205),  whose  descendants  henceforth  assumed  the  name  of 
Nassau ;  it  has  been  suffered  to  fall  to  decay  since  the  end  of  the 
16th  century.  Lower  down  on  the  same  hill  are  the  ruins  of  Bnrg 
Btein  (V2  M.  from  the  suspension-bridge),  the  ancestral  seat  of  the 
Barons  Stein,  the  earliest  mention  of  which  is  in  1158,  and  which 
was  inhabited  down  to  the  end  of  the  17th  century.  The  projecting 
rock  in  front  of  it  bears  a  *  Monument  to  Stein ,  consisting  of  a 
statue  in  marble  one-half  over  life-size,  by  Pfuhl  of  Berlin,  beneath 
a  Gothic  canopy  of  red  sandstone,  61  ft.  in  height,  inaugurated  in 
1872.  The  figure  of  the  minister,  who  wears  the  costume  of  his 
age,  successfully  expresses  his  personal  character.  In  his  right  hand 
he  holds  a  scroll  with  the  date  11th  June,  1807,  in  allusion  to  his 
treatise  regarding  the  reorganisation  of  the  Prussian  state.  The 
terrace  affords  a  survey  of  the  valley  of  the  Lahn. 

The  rocks  of  the  *Hohe  Lei,  reached  from  Nassau  in  »/*  hr.  (donkey 
21/2  m.),  command  a  beantiful  view,  including  the  monastery  of  Arnstein. 
—  Pleasant  walks  may  also  be  taken  to  the  (V4  hr.)  pavilion  on  the  iVia*- 
sauer  Berg,  the  pavilion  on  the  Hahnkopf,  the  JfUhlbaehtTial,  etc. 

Beyond  Nassau  the  railway  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn, 
and  is  soon  carried  through  a  series  of  tunnels.  Before  and  beyond 
the  second ,  a  glimpse  is  obtained  on  the  right  of  Burg  Langenau 
(3  M.  from  Nassau,  1 M.  from  Obemhof),  built  in  1244,  the  ancient 
seat  of  an  Austrian  family,  the  Rhenish  branch  of  which  became 
extinct  in  1603.  The  watch-tower  and  external  waUs  are  well  pre- 
served ;  within  the  latter  a  modem  dwelling-house  has  been  erected. 
Beyond  the  castle,  on  the  opposite  bank,  rises  the  *Kloster  Amitein 
(from  Nassau  a  pleasant  walk  of  4  M.  on  the  left  bank ;  from 
Obemhof  Y4  hr. ;  refreshments  at  the  Elostermfihle) ,  with  its 
church  in  the  Transition  style  of  the  12th  cent,  (enlarged  in  1359), 
and  other  buildings,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  wooded  eminence. 
A  castle  of  very  ancient  origin  which  once  stood  here  was  converted 
by  the  last  Count  of  Arnstein  or  Arnoldstein  into  a  Premonstraten- 
sian  monastery  in  1208  (suppressed  in  1803).  It  is  most  easily 
visited  from  Obemhof  (see  below).  On  leaving  the  station  we  turn 
to  the  right,  and  after  300  paces  follow  the  path  to  the  left,  indi- 
cated by  a  finger-post,  to  (Y2  ^0  Arnstein.  Refreshments  at  the 
Kloatermiihle.  A  picturesque  path  leads  hence  to  (41/2  M.)  Nassau, 
via  Hollrieh  and  Scheuem. 

Near  (18  M,)  Ober^hof  (Bingelf  unpretending;  LotzJ^  where 


to  Wetitar.  SCHAUMBURG.  27.  Route.     205 

seYer&l  trains  stop  in  summer ,  are  lead  and  silver-mines,  the  work- 
ing of  which  has  lately  been  resumed.  The  station  is  on  the  left 
bank  and  the  village  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn.  A  line  point 
of  view  in  the  vicinity  is  known  as  the  Ooethepunktj  from  a  visit 
made  to  It  by  Goethe  in  1814. 

The  line  now  passes  through  a  long  tunnel,  and  skirts  the  village 
of  Kalkofen.  Then  a  long  curve.  High  up,  on  the  slopes  of  the  left 
bank,  is  situated  the  'AWe  flitzus*,  a  solitary  fragment  of  wall  belong- 
ing to  the  old  nunnery  of  Brunnenlnirg. 

24^2  M.  Laurenburg  (Bingel),  with  silver-smelting  works ,  a 
small  chateau,  and  the  rains  of  the  ancestral  residence  of  the  Counts 
of  Nassau,  who  were  originally  Counts  of  Laurenburg  (comp.  p.  204) ; 
this  castle  is  first  mentioned  in  1093  and  was  already  a  ruin  in  1643. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  taken  hence  to  the  wooded  and  rocky 
Ruphaehthal  (there  and  back  iV?  hr.),  with  its  foundries  and  slate-quarries. 

Before  the  church  is  reached,  a  road  to  the  left  ascends  to  (IV4  M.)  Soheid, 
and  about  8  min.  farther  again  leaves  the  main  road  and  descends  to  the 
left  to  (1 H.)  Geilnau  on  the  Lahn.  The  river  describes  a  circuit  of  many 
miles  between  Laurenburg  and  Geilnau,  which  this  route  cuts  off.  The 
mineral  spring  of  Geilnau  is  Vs  ^-  above  the  village  ^  it  is  not  resorted  to 
by  patients,  but  the  water  is  exported.  The  valley. between  Geilnau  and 
the  C2V4  ^)  ferry  of  Balduinstein  is  very  picturesque. 

Beyond  the  Cramberg  Tunnel  the  train  stops  at  (28  M.)  Baldnin- 
Btein  (Noll)  ,*  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  of  that  name,  built 
in  1319,  rise  in  a  narrow  ravine  behind  the  village.  A  good  road 
(carriages  at  the  station)  leads  through  the  village  in  ^/^  hr.  to  the 
castle  of  Schaumburg ;  walkers  ascend  the  steep  foot-path  in  about 
25  minutes. 

On  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  the  loftily-situated  castle  of 
^Sohanmburg  (915  ft.)  overlooks  the  valley  from  a  wooded  basaltic 
peak.  It  was  once  the  seat  of  the  princes  of  Anhalt-Schaumburg, 
and  afterwards  that  of  Archduke  Stephen  (d.  1867),  grandson  of 
the  last  prince  (d.  1812) ;  it  is  now  the  property  of  Duke  George 
Ludwig  of  Oldenburg.  The  castle  was  built  before  1194,  but  the 
oldest  parts  of  the  present  building  date  from  the  18th  cent. ;  the 
modern  part ,  in  the  English-Gothic  style,  was  erected  for  Archduke 
Stephen  by  the  architect  Boos  of  Wiesbaden.  Fine  view  from  the 
tower.  The  collection  of  minerals  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  hothouses 
contain  a  number  of  rare  plants.  Bear-garden.  Fine  park.  Below 
the  castle  is  a  good  restaurant  with  a  picturesque  garden.  —  We 
descend  at  first  through  wood,  and  then  through  the  village  of  Bir- 
lenbach  to  (3  M.)  Dietz. 

29  M.  Fachingen  (Anker)  derives  importance  from  its  mineral 
spring,  of  which  90,000  bottles  are  annually  exported.  The  pro- 
cess of  filling  and  corking  is  interesting. 

32  M.  BietB  (334  ft. ;  *HoUandischer  Hof ;  *H6tel  Lorenz),  a 
thriving  little  town  with  4169  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  hillside,  close  to  the  Lahn,  Is  commanded  by  the  Peterskirchej 
built  in  the  13th  cent,,  and  by  an  old  castle  of  the  Counts  of  Dietz, 


206    RouU  27.  LIMBUBQ.  From  Coblenz 

now  a  house  of  conection,  where  marble  is  out  and  polished  by  the 
prisoners.  The  old  stone  Bridge  across  the  Lahn  is  supported  by 
buttresses  erected  on  two  others  belonging  to  an  earlier  bridge 
(destroyed  in  1552)  which  lie  unbroken  in  the  bed  of  the  riyer. 

On  the  left  bank ,  1  M.  from  Dietz ,  and  connected  with  it  by  a 
beautiful  avenue  of  limes,  is  Sehloss  Oranienateiny  erected  in  1676, 
now  a  Prussian  military  school. 

Fbom  Dixtz  to  Zouhadb,  7  M.,  railway  in  25  min.  (fares  90,  70,  40  pf.). 
The  line  ascends  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Aary  which  falls  into  the  Lahn 
at  Dietx.  To  the  left,  near  (2Vs  H.)  FlaeM,  stands  the  ruin  of  Ardeck. 
3  H.  Obtmeisen;  6V«  H.  ffafm$tdtten  (Kassauer  HoO ;  7  M.  Zollhatu.  Pleasant 
excursions  may  be  made  from  the  latter  two  to  the  ruined  castles  of 
Hohlen/els  and  Burg  Schwalbach.  A  good  road  leads  in  the  valley  of  the 
Aar  from  Zollhaus  to  Miehelbach  and  (14  M.)  Schwalbach  (p.  134)  -,  diligence 
daily  in  3  hrs. 

31 V2  M.  Limbnrg  (360  ft. ;  ^PreassUcher  Hof;  *Nas8auer  Hof; 
Altt  Post,  all  about  V4  M.  from  the  station;  beer  at  the  Aetien- 
hrauerei,  on  the  Wiesbaden  road),  an  old  town  with  6485  inhab., 
a  place  of  some  importance  in  the  middle  ages,  and  now  the  seat  of 
a  Roman  Catholic  bishop,  is  situated  on  the  Lahn,  which  is  crossed 
here  by  a  bridge  constructed  in  1315.  The  *  Cathedral ,  with  its 
seven  towers,  the  ^Bcuilica  St,  Oeorgii  Martyris  erecta  909\  as  the 
inscription  above  the  portal  records,  rises  conspicuously  above  the 
river,  from  the  right  bank  of  which  the  best  view  of  it  is  obtained. 
It  was  founded  by  Conrad  Kurzbold,  the  powerful  Salic  count  of 
the  Niederlahngau,  whose  Castle  adjoins  the  church.  The  present 
structure ,  a  remarkably  fine  example  of  the  Transition  style ,  con- 
secrated in  1235,  was  skilfully  restored  in  1872-78.  It  contains  an 
antique  font,  and  a  monument  to  the  founder  (d.  948),  with  a 
recumbent  figure ,  in  front  of  the  high-altar.  The  old  paintings 
have  been  renewed  by  Wittkopf .  The  valuable  treasury  of  the  cathe- 
dral, preserved  in  the  parish  church,  next  door  to  the  bishop's  resi- 
dence, is  shewn  only  on  Wednesdays  (1-5  pers.  3  m.,  6  or  more 
pers.  6  m.;  apply  to  the  vicar).  —  Near  the  station  is  a  new  Pro- 
testant Church  In  the  Gothic  style.  The  War  Monument  for  1870-71 
is  a  fountain  also  in  the  Gothic  style. 

Fbom  Limbcbo  to  Hadamak,  5H.,  by  a  branch-line  in  20  min.  (fares 
65, 45,  30  pf.).  Hadamar  (423  ft. ;  *Jfa$$auer  Hofi  Bou)  is  a  pleasant  little 
town  with  an  ancient  castle.  About  6  M.  to  the  N.  is  situated  the  basaltic 
Dornburg  (1298  ft.),  a  cavern  on  the  8.  side  of  which  contains  a  consider- 
able mass  of  ice  remaining  unmelted  throughout  the  summer. 

Fbom  Limbubo  to  Siebshahn  (Eugers),  20  H.,  railway  in  l^/z  hr.  (fares, 
1  m.  80,  1  m.  20).  The  line  traverses  fruitful  tablelands  and  woods,  of  no 
outstanding  landscape  beauty.  —  IV4  M.  Staffel  (see  above)  ^  41/2  M.  Ifieder- 
Erbach.  —  9  H.  Wallmerody  an  unimportant  place  mentioned  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  ISth  cent.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  ch&teau  of  MoU- 
herg.  —  I21/2  M.  Goldhauten.  —  15  H.  Xontabaur  (*BchUmtner),  a  district 
town  with  3461  inhab.,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  village  refounded  by  the 
archbishop  of  Treves  and  named  Mom  Tabor,  —  18  M.  Wirges.  20  M. 
Sierihahny  see  p.  73. 

From  Limburg  to  Wiesbaden,  mchtt,  and  Frankfort^  see  B.  29  d. 

The  banks  of  the  Lahn  now  become  flatter.    To  the  left  lies 


ioWeitlar.  WEILBURG.  27,  Route.     207 

Dietkirchen^  with  the  oldest  church  in  the  Duchy,  built  before  801, 
on  a  locky  hill  lising  abruptly  from  the  river.    341/2  ^*  Eachhofen, 

36 V2  M.  Bnnkel  (368  ft.;  Wied'acher  Hof;  Zur  Lahnbahn\ 
an  ancient  town  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Lahn,  commanded  by 
an  extensive  old  castle  of  the  princes  of  Wied ,  dating  from  about 
1159,  perched  on  a  rocky  height,  and  now  occupied  by  the  local 
authorities.  On  the  hill  opposite  lies  the  village  of  Schadeck,  with 
an  old  castle  (10  min.  from  the  station;  *View).  —  Near  (38^2  M.) 
Villmar  (Basting)  are  considerable  marble-quarries ;  then  (43  M.) 
AumenaUj  with  ironstone-mines  and  slate-quarries.  After  a  suc- 
cession of  tunnels,  bridges,  and  viaducts,  the  train  reaches  — 

50  M.  Weilbnrg  (^Veut aches  Haua;  *Traube;  ^Bohm,  in  the 
valley  opposite  the  castle,  moderate),  a  small  town  with  3700 
inhab. ,  the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Nassau-Weilburg  down  to 
1816.  Their  chateau,  built  in  the  16th  cent,  and  enlarged  in  1721, 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  rocky  eminence,  and  still  habitable,  is 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  Stadtkirche^  near  the  chateau,  built  in  1707- 
11,  contains  the  family  vault  of  the  ducal  family.  To  the  S.  is  the 
entrance  to  the  pretty  Weilthal,  —  The  wealth  of  the  district  con- 
sists in  the  presence  of  red  ironstone ,  yielding  45-50  per  cent  of 
pure  metal,  between  the  layers  of  slate.  About  200,000  tons  of  ore 
are  mined  in  the  Weilburg  district  yearly,  in  procuring  which  up- 
wards of  2000  miners  are  engaged. 

52  M.  Lohnberg ;  55  M.  Stockhauaen;  58  M.  Braunfela.  In  the 
neighbourhood  are  several  iron  mines,  the  ores  from  which  are 
brought  to  the  main  line  by  small  wire-rope  railways. 

On  a  hill  2Vs  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station  of  Braunfela  is  the  small  town 
of  BraonfeU  (Solnuer  Bo/;  H6U  Seyh) ,  the  residence  of  the  Prince  of 
Solms-Braunfels,  whose  extensive  Sehloss,  dating  in  part  from  the  late- 
Gothic  period,  contains  interesting  old  armour  and  other  curiosities. 
Pleasant  grounds.    A  well  known  breed  of  dogs  is  also  raised  here,  i 

From  (61  M.)  Albshauaen  (Deutscher  Kaiser)  we  may  walk  in 
1/2  hr.  to  the  suppressed  Premonstratensian  abbey  of  Altehberg^  the 
early-Gothic  *Church  of  which  was  completed  at  the  end  of  the 
13th  cent.,  and  contains  ancient  tombstones  and  wood-carving. 

64  M.  Wetzlar  (475  ft.;  Hersoglichea  Haua,  in  the  town;  *H6tel 
Kaltwaaaer^  near  the  station ;  *0rtenbach''8  Reataurant,  wine),  with 
7847  inhab. ,  once  a  free  imperial  town,  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  Lahn  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Dill^  3/4  M.  from  the  station.  The 
town  extends  along  a  height  on  the  left  bank.  The  most  conspicuous 
building  is  the*  Cathedral,  the  oldest  part  of  which  (N.W.),  called  the 
Heidenthurm  by  the  townspeople,  dates  from  the  11th  cent.,  while 
the  N.  side,  the  finest  part,  was  ereated  in  the  14th  and  15th,  and  the 
portals  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries.  The  terrace  planted  with 
limes  is  adorned,  on  the  S.  side,  with  a  monument  to  soldiers  who 
fell  in  the  Franco-Prussian  war,  byLehr.  To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral, 
in  the  Buttermarkt,  which  is  embellished  with  a  bust  of  Goethe  by 
Lehr ,  rises  the  guard-house ,  built  of  red  sandstone.    The  Reicha- 


208    Route  28.  FRANKFORT. 

kammergericht  (courts  of  justice) ,  with  the  imperial  eagle  ,  is 
opposite  the  Herzogliches  Haas.  The  building  of  the  Archives^  near 
the  Haiiser  Thor,  finished  in  1806,  contains  those  state  papers  and 
documents  of  the  German  Confederation  which  remained  over  after 
the  distribution  among  the  different  states  in  1845-52 ,  and  also 
the  share  assigned  to  Prussia. 

About  Y2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Wetzlar  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
KaUmunty  which  is  said  to  be  built  on  Roman  foundations.  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Schiitzengarten.  Other  fine  points  in  the  en- 
virons are  the  Metzeburg  (restaurant)  and  the  Oasthaus  zur  Sehonen 
Au88ichtj  on  the  road  to  Giessen,  commanding  an  admirable  view. 

Goethe  resided  at  Wetzlar  for  some  months  in  1772,  when  he 
was  engaged  in  professional  work  at  the  Reichskammergericht,  and 
is  said  to  have  occupied  a  house ,  indicated  by  a  marble  tablet ,  in 
the  narrow  Gewandgasse,  near  the  corn-market^.  Various  events 
here  and  in  the  environs  suggested  his  *  Sorrows  of  Werther'. 

The  original  of  Werther  was  a  certain  Herr  Jerusalem ,  secretary  to 
the  embassy,  who  shot  himself  in  a  house  (with  two  bow-windows)  in 
the  Schiller-Platz,  near  the  Franciscan  church.  The  Deutsches  Haus,  or 
Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order  (reached  by  the  street  to  the  left  of  the  new 
guard-house,  opposite  the  S.  transept  of  the  cathedral)  was  the  residence  of 
Charlotte's  father,  named  Buff,  the  manager  of  the  estates  of  the  Order, 
and  still  contains  a  room  witli  a  few  memorials  of  her.  The  house  is 
distinguished  by  an  inscription;  apply  for  admission  to  the  custodian,  who  . 
lives  behind  the  cathedral.  Outside  the  Wildbacher  Thor  is  the  'Werther 
Brunnen",  shaded  by  a  venerable  lime-tree,  a  favourite  resort  of  Goethe, 
by  whom  the  pretty  environs  of  Wetzlar  have  been  highly  extolled.  A 
broad  road  ascends  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn  to  (1V2  H.)  Oavhenheim^ 
the  Wahlheim  of  Werther,  situated  on  a  hill  commanding  a  pleasant  view 
of  the  valley.  Most  of  the  old  houses  in  the  'Werther-Platz'  in  front  of 
the  church  were  burned  down  in  1866.  A  monument  here  marks  a 
favourite  seat  of  the  poet.  The  traveller  may  return  by  the  Garbenheim 
watch-tower,  commanding  a  fine  view.  On  the  slope  of  a  hill,  3  M.  from 
Wetzlar,  lies  the  pleasant  village  of  Volpertshausen^  in  a  house  in  which 
(now  a  school)  the  ball  described  in  Werther  took  place. 

From  Wetzlar  to  Deutz  or  Qiessen,  see  R.  8 ;  to  Lollar,  Cassely 
and  Berlin,  see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany. 

28.  Frankfort. 

Railway  Stations.  Frankfort  has  seven  stations,  which,  however,  are 
about  to  be  superseded  by  a  new  Central  Station,  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction. On  the  W.  side  of  the  town  (PI.  B,  5)  are :  —  (1).  Main-Wksbr- 
Bahnhof,  for  Oiessen,  Cassely  Honiburg^  and  Cronherg  (R.  29b);  (2).  Taunds 
Bahnhof,  for  Coitel  (opposite  Mayence),  Wiethaden  (R.  29a).  and  Soden  (R.  29c); 
(3).  Main-Neokab-Bahnhof,  for DaifMtadt^  Mannheim^  and  Heidelberg  (fi..  30), 
for  Mayence  and  Mannheim  (p.  252),  and  for  the  quick  trains  to  Offenbach^ 
ffanau,  Bebra^  Berlin,  and  Leipsic.  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the  town:  —  (4). 
HANA17BB  Bahnhof  (PI.  K,  3),  for  ffanau.  Asehaffenburg^  and  Bavaria^  and 
for  Liniburg  (R.  29d) ;  (5).  Bahnhof  am  Fahsthob  (PI.  E,  5) ,  for  Limburg. 
—  At  Sachsenhausen :  —  (6).  Offenbacheb  Bahnhof  (PI.  D,  7),  for  the 
local  trains  to  OJfenbach',  (7).  Hanau-Bebbaeb  -  Bahnhof,  the  first  stop- 
ping-place for  the  trains  to  Hanau,  Fulda,  Bebra,  etc.  The  hotels  do  not 
send  omnibuses  to  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  '^Frankfubtbb  Hof  (PI.  a ;  G,  D,  4) ,  a  large  establishment  in 
the  Kaiser-Str.,  near  the  western  stations;  R.  with  L.  &  A.,  on  the  first 


i:  14^2  so 


S^JIeter. 


Fm^NKFURT. 


l.Arekir,  JTeutf F.5. 

2Jan3k,nviJb/krta'  .    .    .  D.E.5. 

ZJi9rg«,MU E.4. 

4.      >    Jr«u# D.3. 

SJKa]^erA«ip(ta£ £.2. 

^JBUnferniaiU,  MShere  .  O.K.2. 
l.Bibyerrertiny  ....  £.2. 
S.CmstatUnmahe.  .    .  P.3. 

9.a9u»tnuzZ' &.3. 

DenikixiuUer: 
.    10.3eaman>v     .  .   .  JL.2. 

n.GSOte  ......  D.3. 

12.  fiuioUtt B.3' 

IS.Outtenbay D.^. 

Ik.JTessen C.l. 

IZ.Iarl  des  Groasm,  .    .    .  G.5- 

l^.Sc/tOUr 1>.3. 

n.Seneitmhay E.l. 

li.IfeuU<Qi-Ordenshatcr .  .  6.6. 
Id.Gfflhe's  raterJuuu     .  D.4?. 

20.ffrmiuuhatt C.3. 

2l.Exiifrtweiohe. D.3. 


Urckent 

22J>nas4^TefimnirU^:K.    .  D.4:. 
2ZJ>om.    ........  P.4 

2*.3mMd*treh«JL.    .    .    .  D.3, 

2SJSaautHnenTK.    .    .    .  I».E.3. 

26.£Am7iar«ZHr X  .5 

21.1iehfixuienJC.    .    .    .    .  E.3. 

2&JlicolearK: E.5 

29Jfa«Z«-JE:  ......  E.l; 

ZQJktens'X. £.2 

ZlMUrfrtmavK.  ■    ■    .    .  iD.S. 

Z2:^tnstTerein. C.3. 

3:iJiiirkffudU T.3, 

Z^JtfUtev-FrtisUauni..   .    .    .  £.5 

ZlJbst .    E.3 

2^Ji»ner E.4 

37  .Jtoihschilds  Stamrnhmct  .    &.  3 . 

ZS.Saalhof E.5 

ZS.Sendkenieryisches  SUA    .  £.2. 
iO.Stadelsi^e^  lauutzlnst.  .    C.7. 

il.Staaaibtioatek 1C.5. 

^2.Stadtgericht E.4?, 


m.^ynago^.  Grosser  ....   Cr.S. 

4!4>.I%«(tto* D.3. 

^^JfmnvV'.liacis'sSietTkdedt  E.3. 
I  ehmtJBunAestag  ) 

Efttels: 

aJhatk/urtm-Jof.    .   .    .  C.D.^. 

'bJRassischerSof £.3. 

cJEny'UseherMof D.4. 

d..J*ebraR D.2. 

t.JtSmitdherHuser  ....  F.3 . 

lJS6tAa»L2ror^ C.4>. 

g.  IRtffien^/UzS B.5. 

'\iJduLdt.VVhian,  .    .   .       D.3. 

iJ!iam£r&«r^ E.3.1;. 

^JOMJtraA T.2.3. 

IJtuwrJTof D.3. 

vLSrOsaAerKof C.4. 

riWurttaribergischerWaf  .  F.  ■*•. 


g«.^' 


BeBtaurants.  FRANKFORT.  28,  RouUl    209 

floor  4-81^,  on  the  second  SVs-Ti/s,  on  the  third  3-61/2)  on  the  fourth  3- 
3y<  ™<7  sitting>room8  and  double-bedded  rooms  considerably  dearer,  B.  1  m. 
20  pf.,  table  d'hdte  at  1  p.m.  3Vs  m-j  other  items  discharged  as  incurred, 
'pens/  in  winter  from  10  m. ;  post,  telegraph,  and  railway-offices  on  the 
premises.  *HdTBL  db  Bussxb  (PI.  b ;  E,  8),  Zeil,  B.,  L.,  A  A.  from  3  m., 
B.  1  m.  40  pf^  D.  at  1  p.m.  3Va,  at  5  p.m.  4Vsm.,  also  ^pension';  *  Eng- 
lish Hotel  (PI.  c;  ^y^}-,  Bossmarkt;  *Schwan  (PI.  d;  D,  3),  at  which  the 
peace  of  10th  May,  1871 ,  was  concluded ,  Steinweg  \  the  last  three  are 
good  and  expensive,  charges  similar  in  all.  *HdTBL  du  Kosd  (PL  f ;  G,  4), 
G^osse  GalluB-Str.  17,  B.,  L.,  4[  A.  4Vs,  B.  IV4  m.,  well  spoken  of;  Wbst- 
siVDHALLE  (PI.  g;  B,  5),  near  the  western  stations,  well  spoken  of;  *HOtbl 
Dx  l'Union  (PI.  h;  D,  3),  Steinweg  9,  near  the  Theater-Platz ;  Bomischeb 
Kaisbb  (PI.  e;  F,^,  a  Jewish  house.  —  *Land8bbbo  (PI.  i;  E,  3,4),  near 
the  Liebfrauenberg;  •H6tbl  Dbbxbl  (PI.  k;  F,  2,  3),  Grosse  Friedberger 
Strasse  20-22,  these  two  commercial.  —  Second-class :  ^BbGbsbleb  Hop  (PI. 
m ;  C,  4),  Grosse  Gallus-8tr.,  B.  2V8'3  m. ;  HdTEL  Jaoobi,  Stift-Str.  6,  B.,  L., 
A  A.  2-2V3,  D.  Vs!  m.,  good  cuisine;  *HdTEL  Ebnst,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  from 
2>/s  m.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf. ;  HdrxL  Hohbnzollebn,  these  two  near  the  western 
stations;  WtBTTBMBBBOEB  HoF  (PI.  n;  F,  4),  Fahrgasse  41;  *HdTEL  Hol- 
land, Grosser  Hirschgraben  2,  quiet  and  unpretending,  B.  4^  B.  2  m. 
80  pf. ;  AuosBUBGEB  HoF,  Vogelgesanggasse,  unpretending  but  clean; 
GbunebBaum,  BoHU(^Zum  Stiff;  see  below),  Grosse  Fischergasse ;  HdTEL 
Webneb,  at  the  Hanau  Station ;  Gasthof  zub  Eisenbahn,  near  the  western 
stations,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  2  m.,  D.  2  m.,  B.  80  pf.  —  HOtel  Gabni  zum  Eb- 
LAHOXB  HoF,  Bomgasse  11,  unpretending. 

Pensions.  Frau  NUderheitmann,  Kettenhofweg 83;  FrtMYortter.  Linden^ 
Str.  17;  Frau  Valentin^  Wohler-Str.  18;  Frau  Camozti,  Liebig-Str.  12;  Frau 
Weissenbom,  Lindenstr.  32,  for  ladles  only. 

Beatanruitfl.  *(kn/i  CHowtno,  opposite  the  Frankfurter  Hof,  dear;  Bier- 
bauery  Grosse  Gallus-Str.  5;  HdtBlduNord.  Hdtel  Jacobi  (see  above);  Zur 
Oper,  near  the  opera-house;  ^Hartmann^  Neue  Mainzer-Str.  58,  with  gar- 
den; Menzer^8  Oreek  Wine-Rocm^  Bockenheimer-Str.  40;  Bestaxirants  in  the 
"Zoological  Oarden  and  *Fahn  Oarden.  For  ladies  only :  ReMtaurtttion  d€$ 
Frauenbildung$-Verein$,  Tongesgasse  40  A  Holzgraben  11,  entrance  by  the 
Zeil  37.  —  Gafis.  *Cc^fd  Bauer,  Schiller-Str.  2;  Milani,  Zeil  72;  Oursaal, 
in  the  pleasure-grounds  near  the  Friedberger  Thor;  Ooldschmidt,  Aller- 
heiligen-Str.  83.  —  Oonfeotioners.  A.  BUttehly,  Goethe-Platz,  ices;  Kiefer^ 
SchiUer-Platz ;  Be  Oiorgi,  Liebfrauen-Str.  3,  chocolate.  —  Beer.  *Neiis  BUru^ 
near  the  theatre ;  Taunus^  Grosse  Bockenheimer-Str. ;  Btadt  ITlm,  Schafer- 
gasse,  fitted  up  in  the  old-German  style ;  Ca/4  Neuf,  Bibergasse  8  and  Bor- 
senplatz;  Winiergarten^  Goethe-Platz  13;  Pfnffer,  Schaf ergasse ;  Tewtonia^ 
Paulsplatz  16;  FfSMer,  Grosse  Eschenheimergasse  25.  —  Wine.  *FhXl.  J. 
B9hm  CZum  Stift'),  Grosse  Fischergasse  7,  near  the  Cathedral;  Val.  Bdhm, 
Grosse  Kornmarkt  10,  with  'old-German**  drinking-room  on  the  upper  floor; 
Eneke  ('FalstafT),  Theaterplatz  7;  *  Print  von  Arkadien,  Grosse  Bocken- 
heimer-Str. 9  (D.  lV2m.);  *Se?mitgj  Kirchgasse6;  Bauer^  Kaiserhof-Str.  3; 
Btadt  Athen,  Gr.  Bockenheimer-Str.  (^Greek  wines)  Continental.,  Bodega 
Comp.,  Schillerplatz  2  (Spanish  A  Portuguese  wines,  American  iced  drinks). 

Fost  Ottoe  and  Telegraph  Ottoe  (PI.  35;  E,  3),  Zeil  52;  also  several 
branch-offices. 

Oabs.  Each  vehicle  ought  to  contain  a  copy  of  the  tariff.  From  any  of 
the  stations  into  the  town,  1-2  pers.  90  pf.,  8-4  pers.  1  m.  20 pf. ;  drive  within 
the  town,  60  or  70  pfj,  returning  from  the  Palm  Garden  or  Zoological 
Garden  after  9  p.m.,  90  pf.  or  1  m.  Each  box  20  pf. ;  small  articles  free. 
Bp  time':  15  min.  50  or  70  pf ,  20  min.  70  or  90  pf. ,  25  min.  90  pf.  or 
1  m.,  1  hr.  1  m.  70  or  2  m.  Drives  from  the  so-called  outer  ^zones'  (districts) 
to  the  inner  zones,  or  vice  vers&,  10  pf.  extra.  Double  fare  from  11  p.m. 
to  6  a.m. 

Tramway  from  Boekenheim  past  the  Palm  Oarden  and  along  the  Zeil 
to  the  Zoological  Oarden  and  the  Ost-Bahnhof,  with  branch-lines  to  the 
western  stations,  Sachsenhansen,  Nordend,  and  Bomheim.  Gomp.  the  Plan. 
—  Bleetrio  Bailway  from  Bacheenhaueen  to  Offmbach  over  the  old  Main 
bridge  and  stopping  at  Oberrady  every  15  min.  (fare  20  or  10  pf.). 

Babobkbb's  Bhlne.    10th  Edit.  14 


210    Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  History. 

Baths.  Warm  at  QreVtt^  Leonhardsthor ,  and  at  AlVt^  Alte  Mainser 
Gasse.  Batht  (Turkish ,  etc.)  at  Sachsenhaiuen.  River  Baths  near  the 
Unter-Mam-Briicke  and  the  Ober-Main-Briicke. 

Theatres.  Opsra  House  (PI.  B,  C,  2;  p.  217)  and  Town  Theatre  (PI.  44; 
D,  3 ;  p.  211),  both  the  property  of  the  town,  performances  on  alternate  davs. 

Ooncerts  given  by  the  Musetans-QeselUchaft  in  the  Saslban  (p.  211) 
every  Frid.  evening  in  winter,  alternately  orchestral  (6-30  p.m.)  and 
chamber  music  (7  p.m.).    Tickets  to  be  obtained  of  the  custodian. 

British  Consul :  C.  Oppenheimer^  Esq.^  Consul  General,  Bockenheimer 
Landstrasse  8.  B.  Ooldbeck^  Esq.j  Consul.  —  United  States  Gonsul:  J.  MiUler^ 
Esq.,  Kaiser-Str.  29. 

BngUsh  Church  Service  in  the  French  Churchy  Goethe-Platz  7,  at  11.15 
a.m.  and  3.30  p.m.  \  Chaplain,  Rev.  G.  W.  Maekentie^  Eomer-Str.  13. 

Chief  Attractions  (one  day).  In  the  morning  the  Rossmarkt  and  (3k)ethe- 
Platz  and  the  monuments  there,  the  RSmer  (p.  212;  fee).  Cathedral,  and 
old  bridge  over  the  Main;  after  11  a.  m.  the  Stadel  Institution  (p.  218), 
and  in  the  evening  the  Palm-Garden  (visiting  the  opera-house  on  the  way) 
or  the  Zoological  Garden.  —  The  numbers  of  the  houses  in  the  streets 
running  at  right  angles  to  the  Main  are  painted  on  a  blue,  those  in  the 
streets  parallel  with  the  Main  on  a  red  ground. 

Frankfort  on  the  Main  (300  ft.),  with  154,504 Inhab.  (including 
15,000  Jews  and  a  garrison  of  1800  soldiers),  formerly  a  free  town 
of  the  Empire,  and  down  to  1866  one  of  the  free  towns  of  the  Ger- 
man Confederation  and  the  seat  of  the  Diet,  now  belongs  to  Prnssia. 
Old  watch-towers  in  the  vicinity  indicate  its  ancient  extent.  The 
city  lies  in  a  spacious  plain  bounded  by  mountains,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  navigable  Main,  On  the  left  bank  of  the  river  lies 
SachsenhauHeny  a  suburb  connected  with  Frankfort  by  four  stone 
bridges,  and  by  an  iron  suspension-bridge.  In  a  commercial  and 
particularly  a  financial  point  of  view ,  Frankfort  is  one  of  the  most 
important  cities  in  Germany. 

The  old  part  of  the  town  consists  of  nairow  and  unattractive 
streets,  but  theZeil,  the  Neue  Mainzer-Str.,  Kaiser-Str.,  Frieden- 
Str.,  etc.,  boast  of  many  handsome  modern  buildings.  The  town 
is  surrounded  by  ^Anlagen\  or  public  grounds,  where  many  taste- 
fully-built residences  are  situated.  The  air  of  wealth  and  impor- 
tance which  pervades  the  city  affords  an  indication  of  the  success 
and  extent  of  its  commercial  relations. 

Frankfort  dates  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  In  794  that  emperor 
held  a  convocation  of  bishops  and  dignitaries  of  the  empire  in  the  royal 
residence  '- Franeonofurd"  (ford  of  the  Franks).  After  the  erection  of  a 
new  palace  (now  the  SaalhoO  by  Louis  the  Pious  in  822  the  town  soon 
reached  such  a  high  degree  of  prosperity  that  at  the  time  of  the  death 
of  Louis  the  German  (876)  it  was  already  looked  upon  as  the  capital  of 
the  East  Franconian  Empire.  Under  this  monarch,  who  frequently 
resided  here,  the  city  was  considerably  enlarged.  During  the  reign  of 
Lewis  the  Bavarian,  who  conferred  on  the  town  the  freedom  of  the 
empire  and  many  other  privileges,  Frankfort  was  again  much  extended 
and  almost  reached  the  present  limits  of  the  inner  city.  One  of  the  most 
important  of  the  privileges  which  it  received  was  the  confirmation  of 
the  Easter  Fair  in  1330;  the  Autumn  Fair  had  been  sanctioned  by 
Frederick  II.  as  early  as  1240.  To  these  fairs  the  town  owed  the  im- 
portance it  ei\joyed  during  the  16th  and  17th  cent,  as  a  centre  of  domestic 
and  foreign  trade.  From  the  time  of  Frederick  Barbarossa  (1152)  onwards 
most  of  the  German  emperors  were  chosen  at  Frankfort,  and  in  1350  it 
was  recognised  by  the  Golden  Bull  of  Charles  IV.  (p.  215)  as  the  perma- 
nent seat  of  the  elections.    On  the  dissolution  of  the  Empire  in  1806, 


Kaiser-Strasse.  FRANKFORT.  28,  Route.    21 1 

Frankfort,  with  Aschaffenburg ,  Hanau,  Fulda,  and  Wetzlar,  was  made 
over  as  a  Orand-duchy  to  Carl  von  Dalberg,  Primate  of  the  Bhenish  Con- 
federation ,  and  previously  Archbishop  of  Hayence.  From  1814  to  1866  it 
was  one  of  the  four  free  cities  of  the  German  Confederation,  and  in  1866 
it  was  taken  by  the  Prussians. 

New  and  imposing  buildings  are  rapidly  springing  np  near  the 
railway-stations  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  The  principal  approach 
to  the  town  is  formed  by  the  handsome  *KaiB6r-8trasBe  (PI.  G, 
5,  4),  which  leads  directly  to  the  Rossmarkt.  The  first  street  run- 
ning at  right-angles  to  it  is  the  Neue  Mainzer  Strassey  in  which, 
on  the  left  (No.  35),  is  the  building  containing  the  art-industrial 
exhibition  of  the  MittelrJieinische  Kunstgewerht-Vtrein  (adm.  50  pf ., 
Wed.  20  pf.). 

The  RossMAHKT  (PI.  D,  4),  at  the  end  of  the  Eaiser-Str.,  the 
largest  Platz  in  the  city,  is  an  open  space  of  irregular  shape ,  in 
the  W.  half  of  which  rises  the  Honnment  of  Gutenberg  (PI.  13), 
erected  in  1858,  a  fine  group  on  a  large  sandstone  pedestal,  design- 
ed by  Ed,  V.  d.  Launitz.  The  central  figure  with  the  types  in  the 
left  hand  is  Gutenberg,  on  his  right  Fust,  on  his  left  Schoffer.  On 
the  frieze  are  portrait-heads  of  fourteen  celebrated  printers,  with 
Caxton  among  them.  In  the  four  niches  beneath  are  the  arms  of 
the  four  towns  where  printing  was  first  practised,  Mayence,  Frank- 
fort, Venice,  and  Strassburg.  Round  the  base  are  figures  represent- 
ing Theology,  Poetry,  Natural  Science,  and  Industry. 

The  Gobthe-Platz,  which  adjoins  the  Rossmarkt  on  the  N.,  is 
embellished  with  Schwanthaler's  Honiunent  of  Goethe  (PI.  11; 
D,  3),  erected  in  1844.  The  reliefs  on  the  pedestal  in  front  are 
allegorical ;  on  the  sides  are  figures  from  Goethe's  poems.  —  Op- 
posite is  the  French  Reformed  G^urch  (French  service  on  Sun.  at 
9.30,  English  at  11.15  a.  m.). 

In  the  Theater -Platz  (PI.  D,  3)  rises  the  Theatre  (PI.  44), 
erected  in  1782.  Behind  the  theatre  stands  a  building  for  contain- 
ing the  theatrical  scenery  and  other  properties,  adjoining  which  is 
the  Keue  Borse,  or  Exchange  (PI.  4;  D,  3),  built  by  BumitZj 
with  a  handsome  Renaissance  hall  (business  -  hours  12-2).  The 
Goethe-Strasse,  to  the  W.,  contains  the  new  Qewerhehasse^  or  Ar- 
tizans'  Savings  Bank,  and  the  ElUaheihenschuU, 

To  the  W.  of  the  Rossmarkt,  Junghof-Strasse  8,  is  the  Kunst- 
verein  with  its  picture-gallery  (PI.  32 :  C.  3 ;  open  daily  9-6,  1  m.). 
Nos.  19,  20  in  the  same  street  form  the  SaaXbcm  (PI.  9),  in  the 
handsome  rooms  of  which  concerts,  balls  etc.  take  place  (see  p.  210). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Rossmarkt,  Grosser  Hirschgraben23,  is  the  house 
in  which  Qoethe  was  born  (PI.  19:  D,  4;  adm.  1  m.,  daily  except 
Sun.  afternoon),  with  an  inscription  recording  that  event  (28th  Au- 
gust, 1749).  The  house,  where  some  of  the  adventures  mentioned 
in  his  ^Fiction  and  Truth'  took  place,  was  purchased  by  the  ^Deut- 
sche HoehstifV  in  1863,  and  has  been  restored.  It  contains  some  busts 
and  portraits  of  Goethe,  a  few  works  of  art,  and  various  curiosities. 

14* 


212    B<mU28.  FRANKFORT.  ZeU. 

Adjoining  the  Rossmarkt  on  the  N.E.  side  is  theSCHiLLBR- 
Platz  (PI.  D,  3),  with  the  Hauptwache  or  guaid-house  (PI.  21), 
and  a  Statue  of  Schiller  in  hronze  (PI.  16),  from  a  model  hy  Diel- 
mann.  To  the  right  rises  the  Katharinenkirehe  (PI.  25),  hnilt  in 
1680,  the  tower  of  which  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  city.  —  The 
house  Zum  Kaiser  Karl  at  the  corner  of  the  Orosse  Eschenheimer 
Strasse  is  a  quaint  and  interesting  edifice. 

We  now  enter  the  ♦Zeil  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  a  hroad  and  handsome 
street,  the  hnsiest  in  Frankfort,  consisting  chiefly  of  attractive  shops. 

The  Liehfrauen -  Strasse ,  the  first  cross -street  on  the  right, 
leads  across  the  Liehfrauenherg  towards  the  Romerherg.  The 
Roman  Catholic  Liebfrauenkirche  (PI.  27)  contains  several  old 
tomhstones.  The  Liehfranen  -  Str.  is  continued  hy  the  Neue 
Krame,  in  which ,  on  the  right ,  stands  the  old  Exchange  (PI.  3 ; 
E,  4),  erected  in  1844;  the  principal  facade  is  turned  towards 
the  Pauls-Platz.  —  In  the  Pauls-Platz,  opposite  the  Exchange, 
rises  the  Church  of  8U  Paui  (PI.  29;  E,  4J,  a  circular  building 
completed  in  1833.  It  was  used  in  1848-49  for  the  meetings  of 
the  'German  National  Assembly  for  remodelling  the  Constitution^ 
hut  was  again  fitted  up  as  a  place  of  worship  in  1852.  (Bell  for 
the  sacristan  at  the  right  side  of  the  entrance.) 

The  •ESmer  (PL  36 ;  E,4),  the  most  interesting  edifice  at  Frank- 
fort in  a  historical  point  of  view,  is  a  late-Gothic  structure,  erect- 
ed as  a  town-hall  by  Friedrich  Konigshofen  about  the  year  1406,  and 
afterwards  frequently  altered.  The  principal  facade,  with  its  three 
lofty  gables  and  broad  pointed  doorways,  looks  towards  the  R5mer- 
berg.  The  five  windows  in  the  centre  belong  to  the  Kaisersaal.  The 
back  of  the  building,  in  the  Pauls-Platz,  dates  from  1602  and  1731. 

Entering  the  arcades  of  the  ground-floor  from  the  B5merberg,  we 
ascend  a  handsome  stair  to  the  right,  built  in  1740  (painting  recently 
restored),  to  the  first  floor,  on  which  is  situated  the  — 

^'Kaiaenaal  (adm.  free  from  the  beginning  of  May  till  the  end  of  Sept. 
on  Mon.,  Wed.,  Frid.  11-1,  and  from  Oct.  till  the  end  of  April  on  Men. 
and  Wed. ;  at  other  times  fee,  60  pf.  to  1  M.  for  one  or  more  persons  \ 
visitors  ring),  where  the  new  emperor  dined  with  the  electors  and  show- 
ed himself  from  the  balcony  to  the  people  assembled  on  the  Bomerberg. 
The  hall,  which  is  covered  with  tunnel-vaulting  in  wood,  was  restored 
in  1843  and  embellished  with  Portraitt  of  the  Emperor*^  presented  by  Ger- 
man princes,  art-associations,  and  private  individuals.  The  following  are 
among  the  finest.  On  the  central  wall,  opposite  the  windows,  and  larger 
than  the  others,  Charlemagne  (768^14)  by  Ph.  Veit;  then,  beginning  at 
the  corner  diagonally  opposite  the  entrance,  Conrad  I.  C911-918),  by 
Ballenberger;  Otho  I.,  the  Great  (936-973),  by  Veit;  Otho  III.  (983-1002), 
by  Setteffasi;  Conrad  II.  (1024-1039),  by  Gasen;  Henry  lU.  (1039-1056),  by 
Stilke;  Henry  V.  (1106-1125),  by  KiedeiHch;  Lothaire  (1125-1137),  hj  Bende- 
marm;  Frederick  I.,  Barbarossa  (1152-1190),  by  Lessing.h  figure  full  of 
majesty  and  repose,  perhaps  the  best  of  the  series:  Philip  of  Swabia 
(1198-1208),  by  Rethel;  Frederick  II.  (1215-15B()),  by  Veit;  Adolph  of  Nas- 
sau (1292-1298),  by  MUeke;  Albert  I.  (1298-1308),  hj  Steinle;  Henry  VII.,  of 
Luxembourg  (1308-1314),  by  Veit;  Frederick  HI.  (1440-1493),  by  Jul.  ffUbner; 
MaximUian  I.  (1493-1519),  Charles  V.  (1519-1556),  and  Maximilian  II. 
(1564rl576),  by  Rethel;  Budolph  II.  (1576-1612),  by  Bemerlein;  Ferdinand  III. 
(1637-1657),  by  Steinle.  —  We  next  enter  the  — 


SoMof.  FRANKFORT.  ^8,  BouU.     213 

WaUiiauner  (election-room),  decorated  in  red,  where  the  electors 
met  to  deliberate  on  the  choice  of  an  emperor,  and  which  has  been  left 
in  its  original  condition.    It  contains  a  portrait  of  Emp.  Leopold  II. 

The  R6mbbbbbo(P1.  E,4),  or  market-place  in  front  of  the  Bomer, 
which  down  to  the  end  of  last  century  no  Jew  was  permitted  to  enter 
(comp.  p.  216),  was  the  scene  of  those  public  rejoicings  after  the 
election  of  an  emperor  which  Goethe  so  graphically  describes  in  his 
autobiography.  The  Justitia  Fountain  in  the  centre,  formerly  in 
stone,  has  recently  been  re-erected  in  bronze.  The  sonthernmost 
of  the  three  gables  Of  the  Romer  belongs  to  the  Haus  Limpurg, 
which  possesses  a  handsome  yaulted  gateway  (at  the  side)  and  an 
imposing  winding -staircase  of  the  year  1607  (visible  from  the 
court).  At  the  comer  of  the  Romerberg  and  of  the  Wedelgasse  is 
the  8al%hau8,  the  groand-floor  of  which  is  provided  with  rustica  pil- 
lars and  handsome  lattice-windows,  while  the  upper  story  shows 
traces  of  rich  painting.  The  narrow  gable-sides  are  carved  entirely 
of  wood.  —  The  S.  side  of  the  Romerberg  is  bounded  by  the 
Hioolaikirehe  (PL  28),  an  elegant  church  in  the  early-Gothic  style 
of  the  13th  cent. ,  with  one  aisle  only  (N.),  and  a  massive  tower 
adjoining  the  choir.  It  was  restored  in  1847.  Altar-piece,  a  Resur- 
rection by  Bethel, 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Romerberg  is  the  old  Fahrthor,  to  the 
left  of  which  rises  the  Rententhumiy  erected  in  1455.  On  the  side 
of  the  tower  next  the  Main  Is  marked  the  height  attained  by  an 
inundation.  Opposite  is  an  iron  Suspension  Bridge j  on  the  approach 
to  which  are  also  marked  exceptional  heights  reached  by  the  river. 

Adjoining  theRententhurm,  farther  up  the  river,  rises  the  fa^de 
of  the  Saalhof  (PI.  38;  E,  5),  built  in  1717,  and  occupying  the 
site  of  an  Imperial  palace  of  that  name,  which  was  built  by  Charle- 
magne and  renewed  by  Louis  the  Pious  in  822.  The  palace  was 
mortgaged  by  the  emperors  in  the  14th  cent.,  and  was  frequently 
altered,  particularly  in  the  18th  and  19th  centuries,  so  that  no 
external  trace  of  the  original  edifice  now  remains.  The  old  chapel 
in  the  tower  (now  a  private  room,  visible  from  the  side  next  the 
river)  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  once  served 
as  a  receptacle  for  the  imperial  jewels.  The  building  is  now  occu- 
pied by  the  Conservatorium  of  Music, 

On  the  Main,  a  little  lower  down.  Is  the  Roman  Catholic 
Ghnroh  of  St.  L60iihard(Pl.  26 ;  E,  5),  begun  in  1219,  with  a  later 
Gothic  choir  built  in  1434,  the  whole  completed  in  1507,  and 
restored  In  1808.  Some  ancient  paintings  discovered  during  the 
restoration,  Including  a  Last  Judgment  above  the  triumphal  arch, 
have  been  restored.  On  the  N.  tower  and  on  the  stone  pulpit  im- 
mured in  the  N.  wall  (exterior)  is  seen  the  Imperial  eagle ,  said 
to  have  been  bestowed  by  Lewis  the  Bavarian  on  the  abbey  in 
acknowledgment  of  services  rendered  to  him  in  defiance  of  the 
papal  ban.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  in  the  interior  (N.  aisle) 
are  the  two  Romanesque  portals,  which  formed  the  entrances  to  the 


2t4    nouU28,  FRANKFORT.  CatheiraL 

church  before  its  extension  in  the  14th  cent. ;  the  vaulting  with 
the  detached  girders  in  the  chapel  to  the  left ;  a  Last  Supper  by 
Holbein  the  Elder;  and  flnely>coloured  glass  windows  of  the  late- 
Gothic  period. 

The  street  called  the  Maskt  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  leading  from  the 
Romerherg  towards  the  £.  to  the  cathedral,  contains  several  hand- 
some old  dwelling-houses.  No.  44,  on  the  left,  known  as  the  Stei- 
neme  Hauty  with  round-arch  frieze,  corner-turrets,  and  handsome- 
ly vaulted  gateway,  dates  from  the  15th  cent. ;  nearly  opposite, 
next  the  Romerherg,  is  the  Haut  zum  Kleinen  Engel,  half  Gothic, 
half  Renaissance,  of  1562.  In  the  court  of  No.  30  (to  the  left) 
are  two  galleries  with  friezes  of  the  16th  cent,  representing  the  Fall 
and  the  Prodigal  Son.  No.  5,  on  the  right,  called  the  Ooldene  Wage, 
is  adorned  with  rich  mstlca-work  and  fine  lattice-windows,  and 
stucco  ornamentation  on  the  upper  story. 

The  Cathedral  {8U  Bartholomew,  Rom.  Oath.;  PI.  23;  F,  4), 
a  Gothic  edifice ,  was  founded  in  1238 ;  the  choir  was  erected  in 
1315-38.  The  church  was  seriously  injured  by  a  fire  in  August 
1867,  but  has  since  been  restored  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  architect  Densmp^r.  On  that  occasion  the  tower,  left  unfinished 
in  1514,  and  now  312ft.  high,  was  completed  from  the  early  plans. 

Intekiob.  Access  to  the  church  is  obtained  by  the  X.  portal  (best  time, 
10-4).  By  the  wall,  to  the  right,  are  tombstones  of  the  Holzhausen  and 
Sachsenhansen  families,  of  the  i4th  and  15th  centuries.  The  chapel  ad- 
joining the  choir  on  the  left  contains  a  group  of  the  Death  of  Mary, 
sculptured  in  stone  in  the  14th  century.  —  At  the  high-altar  the  coro- 
nation of  the  emperors  used  to  be  solemnised  by  the  Elector  of  Hayence. 
To  the  right  is  the  Wahlkapelle  (election-chapel),  where  the  actual  election 
of  the  emperors  took  place ;  at  the  entrance  stands  the  beautiful  monument 
of  the  German  king  Gilnther  von  Schwarzburg,  who  died  in  1349  at  Frank- 
fort, where  he  had  taken  refuge  from  his  opponent  Charles  IV.  The  armorial 
bearings  around  it  belong  to  the  families  who  erected  the  monument. 
The  original  inscription  is  in  old  German,  the  new  one  in  Latin,.  — 
The  frescoes  in  the  choir  and  the  transepts  were  excuted  from  cartoons 
by  A.  Linnemann  and  Steinle.  They  represent :  Christ  judging  the  world 
(above  the  main  arch)  etc.;  and  scenes  from  the  history  of  the  cathedral 
(on  the  W.  wall),  including  the  Council  of  firankfort  (794);  Reconciliation 
of  Otho  I.  and  his  brother  Duke  Henry  (941) ;  Conrad  III.  and  St.  Bernard 
of  Clairvaux  (1147);  Burial  of  Giinther  von  Schwarzburg  (1349);  Capistran 
preaching  repentance  (1434);  Albert  Achilles  of  Brandenburg  carried  into 
the  meeting  of  the  electors  (14S6) ;  Coronation  of  Maximilian  II.  (1564) ; 
and  the  Imperial  procession  to  the  Bomer.  —  In  the  choir,  to  the  right, 
is  a  *Painting  by  Van  Dyck^  presented  by  the  Brentano  family.  The  altar- 
piece,  a  Virgin  enthroned,  is  by  Veit.  —  In  the  chapel  adjoining  the  choir 
on  the  right  is  a  Sepulchre  with  the  sleeping  watchmen  beneath,  of  the 
15th  century;  also  a  fine  Tabernacle  of  the  same  period.  To  the  right 
of  the  S.  portal  is  the  tomb  of  Andrea*  Eirde,  with  a  relief  representing 
the  Mocking  of  Christ  (1518). 

On  the  outside  of  the  N.  wall  of  the  choir  is  a  large  Crucifixion, 
executed  in  tufa  in  the  style  of  Diirer  for  the  cloth-merchant  Jacob  Heller. 

At  No.  4  in  the  Domplatz,  to  the  E.  of  the  cathedral,  is  a  Statiu 
of  Luther,  commemorating  a  sermon  said  to  have  been  delivered 
here  by  the  Reformer  when  on  his  way  to  the  Diet  of  Worms. 

To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  new  building  for  preserving 


Municipal  Archives,      FRANKFORT.  28.  Route,     215 

the  Kimioipal  ArehiveB  (PI.  1;  F,  5),  completed  in  1878  from 
designs  by  Denzinger,  The  ground  -  floor  contains  a  ^Historical 
MusBi7M  (adm.  10-1,  Sun.  and  Wed.  free;  other  days,  50  pf.), 
formed  of  the  combined  collections  of  the  municipality  and  the 
Antiquarian  Society. 

The  Ants-Boom  Gontains  armour,  weapons,  and  architectural  fragments, 
including  a  colossal  Roman  ^Column,  exhumed  at  Heddemheim.  — 
Room  I.  contains  pictures  from  suppressed  Frankfort  monasteries.  In  the 
first  cabinet,  on  the  left:  Pietli,  a  large  group  of  the  Cologne  school*,  op- 
posite, C.  Viol  (?),  Altar-piece;  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  *  Holbein  the\ 
Elder ^  Genealogy  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Dominicans.  In  the  second  cabinet, 
to  the  left :  Old  copy,  by  Johtt  ffarrich  of  Nuremberg,  of  DUrer^s  celebrated 
Assumption,  which  was  painted  in  1609  for  Jacob  Heller  (p.  214)  of  Frank- 
fort, purchased  in  1615  by  Elector  Maximilian  of  Bavaria,  and  destroyed  by 
fire  at  Munich  in  1674  -y  the  wings  are  the  original  productions  of  Diirer's 
studio.  On  the  right,  two  works  in  grisaille  by  Math.  Gi-iinewald  (?)i 
altar-piece  by  Ham  Baldung  Orien.  In  the  3rd  Cab. :  Two  animal-paintings 
by  J.  H.  and  J.  M.  Roos;  Ascension,  by  M.  Merian  the  Younger;  Portrait  of 
Zach.  Stenglin  (1674)  ■,  Sandrart^  Portrait  of  the  patrician  Maximilian  zum 
Jungen  (1636) ;  David  Sulzer^  Portrait  of  Borne  (1812). —Room  II.  contains  the 
*Prehn  Collection'  of  cabinet-works ;  to  the  right  of  the  window,  *Meieter 
Stephan  of  Cologne  (?),  Virgin  in  a  garden ;  below,  Uffenhach  (Elsheimer's 
teacher),  The  Magi.  Among  the  Dutch  paintings  in  the  adjoining  cabinet, 
the  best  are  a  *Physician  by  Teniers  and  two  Church  Interiors  by  Van  Vliet, 
Another  cabinet  contains  a  ^Panorama  of  Frankfort  in  1812,  by  Morgenstem 
(pen-and-ink  sketch).  The  last  cabinet  is  devoted  to  modem  works :  on  the 
right,  Peter  GomeliuSy  Holy  Family;  several  fine  landscapes.  —  The  Aitti- 
QUABiAN  Collection,  including  prehistoric ,  Roman ,  and  Frankish  anti> 
quities,  is  also  interesting.  The  Doll's  House  of  the  18th  cent,  is  curious.  >f 
Among  the  old  documents  is  the  'Golden  Bnir  of  1366  (see  p.  210).  There 
are  also  Egyptian  and  Ethnographical  GolleoHons. 

Adjacent  is  the  old  Leinwandhaus ,  or  Drapers'  Hall,  dating 
from  the  14th  cent.,  which  has  recently  been  provided  with  turrets 
and  pinnacles  and  is  used  for  municipal  offices. 

In  the  Fahrgasse,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  Fursteneek 
(No.  17),  a  late-Gothic  house,  with  a  room  on  the  first  floor  with 
late-Renaissance  decoration  (visitors  admitted).  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
Fahrgasse  is  the  handsome  old  Bridge  over  the  Main,  constructed 
of  red  sandstone  in  1342.  The  middle  of  the  bridge  is  embellished 
with  a  Statue  of  Charlemagne  (PL  15),  erected  In  1843.  Near  it 
is  an  old  iron  cross,  with  a  still  earlier  figure  of  Christ.  The  pre- 
sence of  the  cock  which  surmounts  it  is  explained  by  the  tradition, 
that  a  cock  became  the  victim  of  a  vow  made  by  the  architect ,  to 
sacrifice  to  the  devil  the  first  living  being  that  crossed  the  bridge. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Main  lies  the  suburb  of  SaehBenhauBen 
(p.  210),  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Charlemagne,  and  assigned 
by  him  as  a  residence  to  the  conquered  Saxons ,  from  whom  it 
derives  its  name.  To  the  left,  on  the  Main,  Is  the  Deutsch-Ordens^ 
haus  (PI.  18 ;  G,  6),  or  House  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  erected  in 
1709 ,  and  now  a  Roman  Catholic  Mission  House.  To  the  right  is 
the  Chureh  of  the  Magi  (PI.  F,  6;  Prot.),  rebuilt  by  Denzinger. 

The  quay  flanked  with  lofty  houses ,  which  extends  along  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  is  called  the  Schone  Aussieht  (PI.  G,  H,  5). 


216    Route  S8.  FRANKFORT.  Towh  Librofy, 

and  is  traversed  by  the  junction-railway.    At  the  npper  end  of  it, 
where  the  Oher^Main  Bridge  croases  the  river,  is  sitnated  the  — 

Town  Library  (PI.  41,  H,  5 ;  adm.  Mon.,  Tues. ,  Thurs.  andFrid. , 
10-3;  Wed.  and  Sat.,  12-2),  built  by  Ht8B  in  1825,  with  a  conspi- 
cuous Corinthian  portico.  It  contains  over  200,0()0  volumes.  At 
the  foot  of  the  staircase  is  a  marble  *8tatue  of  Ooethej  in  a  sitting 
posture,  by  P.  Marcheai  (1838),  besides  which  there  are  numerous 
busts  in  marble  of  Frankfort  celebrities.  In  front  of  the  libi^ary  is 
a  Bwt  of  LeBBing,  in  marble,  by  Kaupert. 

Behind  the  Library,  Lange-Str.  4,  is  the  Hospital  sum  Heiligtn 
OciBtj  a  model  institution  of  its  kind.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  the 
Rechnei  -  Cfraben ,  opposite  which  is  the  Rechneigraben  -  Strasse 
leading  to  the  Borne-Platz,  in  which  is  a  Synagogue,  built  in  1881.^ 
At  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  square  diverges  the  old  and  once  pictur-' 
esque  Judbnoassb  (PI.  G,  4 ;  now  Borne-Strasse),  the  dingy  houses 
of  which  have  of  late  been  removed. 

Down  to  the  regime  of  the  Prince  Primate  (p.  211)  in  1806,  the  Juden- 
gasse,  or  Jews'  Street,  was  closed  every  evening,  and  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  throughout  the  whole  day,  with  lock  and  key,  and  no  Jew  might 
venture  into  any  part  of  the  town  under  a  heavy  penalty.  In  spite  of 
this  tyranny,  many  denizens  of  these  squalid  purlieus  flourished,  and  among 
them  the  now  enormously-wealthy  Rothschild  family,  who  originally  resid- 
ed at  Ko.  148.  Their  offices  are  now  in  the  comer-house,  Fahrgasse  146 
and  Bornheimer-Str.  16. 

At  the  end  of  the  Judengasse  stands  the  old  Synagogue  (PI.  43 ; 
G,  3) ,  erected  by  Kayser  in  1855-60.  The  Bornheimer  -  Strasse 
leads  hence,  intersecting  the  Fahrgasse ,  to  the  Market  Hall  (PI. 
F,  3),  an  iron  and  glass  structure,  416  ft.  long  and  111  ft.  broad. 
From  the  Market  we  regain  the  Zeil. 

Near  the  Romische  Kaiser  Hotel  (PI.  e ;  F,  3)  diverges  the  Schdfer^ 
ga»$e,  in  which  is  situated  the  old  Pbtbb's  Cbmetbby  (PL  F,  2) 
containing  the  tombstone  of  Goethe's  mother  (d.  1808).  In  the  centre 
is  the  War  Honximent,  erected  in  1878  to  the  memory  of  the  natives 
of  Frankfort  who  fell  in  the  war  of  1870-71,  cast  in  bronze  from  a 
model  by  Eckhard, 

The  flight  of  steps  at  the  N.  end  of  the  cemetery  ascends  to  the 
Bleich'Strasse^  in  which,  a  little  to  the  W. ,  is  the  Senckenberg 
Institution  (PI.  39:  E,  2;  adm.  Sun.  and  Frid.  11-1,  Wed.  2-4, 
gratis ;  on  other  days  fee  75  pf.),  founded  in  1763  by  Johann  Chris- 
tian Senckenberg,  a  physician  of  Frankfort.  It  comprises  a  fine 
Natural  History  Collection,  a  Library^  a  Botanic  Oarden,  an  Ana- 
tomical Theatre,  and  a  Hospital, 

Adjacent,  at  the  end  of  the  Gbossb  Eschbnhbimbb  Stbassb, 
rises  the  circular  EBohenheimer  Thurm  (PI.  E,  2),  erected  in 
1400-28  on  the  site  of  a  square  tower  of  1346,  the  only  one  of  the 
ancient  tower-gateways  of  the  city  now  ex.tant.  The  large  house  at 
the  corner  of  the  Stifts-Strasse  and  the  Eschenheimer-Str.(No.  74), 
the  residence  of  the  Archduke  John  in  1848-49,  when  'Regent  of 
the  Empire*,   now  belongs  to  the  Burgerverein,  or  citizens'  club 


Opera  House.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route,     217 

(PI.  7).  On  the  same  side,  No.  26,  is  the  Palace  of  the  Ftince  of 
Thum  and  Taxis  (PI.  45),  built  in  1740,  vhich  contained  the 
assembly-hall  of  the  German  Diet  (Bundestag)  down  to  1866. 

On  the  site  of  the  old  fortifications  around  the  city,  with  the 
exception  of  the  side  next  the  Main,  extend  pleasant,  park-like 
^PromenadMf  adorned  with  several  monuments,  including  those  of 
the  patriotic  Bctftmann  (PI.  10),  who  died  in  1826,  GuioUet (PI,  12), 
who  IfAd  out  the  promenades,  Senckenherg  (PI.  17),  the  founder  of 
the  hospital,  Borneo  the  poet,  and  Kirchnety  the  historian. 

The  Hessian  Monument  (PI.  14 ;  G,  1),  outside  the  Frledberger 
Thor,  was  erected  by  Frederick  "William  II.  of  Prussia  to  the  Hes- 
sians who  fell  on  2nd  Dec,  1792,  in  the  attack  on  Frankfort,  then 
occupied  by  the  French  under  General  Gustine. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Friedberg  road  is  the  Ariadnenniy 
or  Bethmann^s  Museum  (PI.  G,  1 ;  adm.  daily  10-1,  from  June  1st 
'to  Sept.  30th  also  3-5;  fee  60-75  pf. ;  Sun.  gratis),  a  circular 
building  containing  the  exquisite  group  of  *Ariadne  on  the  panther, 
the  masterpiece  of  Dannecker  (d.  1841),  a  sculptor  of  Stuttgart, 
who  is  likewise  famous  for  his  bust  of  Schiller.  This  work  was 
purchased  for  20,000  fl.  The  building  also  contains  a  few  other 
works  of  art. 

At  the  N.  corner  of  the  Eschenheimer  Anlage  (PI.  F,  1)  a 
finger-post  indicates  the  way  by  the  £schenheimer  Strasse  (in  which 
No.  57,  on  the  left,  in  the  Greek  style,  contains  VannVs  exhibition 
of  casts)  to  the  (1  M.)  ^Cemetery,  which  is  entered  by  a  Doric 
colonnade  and  contains  a  number  of  well-executed  monuments. 

The  Abcadbs  on  the  E.  side  contain  the  vaults  of  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal families  of  Frankfort.  Nearly  in  the  middle  of  them  is  a  relief  by 
Pradier  of  Geneva.  The  last  vault  to  the  left,  belonging  to  the  v.  Beth- 
mann  family,  contains  an  admirable  ^Relief  by  Thorvaldsen  to  the  me- 
mory of  a  Hr.  V.  Bethmann  who  died  at  Florence  (1812)  of  an  illness 
caused  by  his  exertions  on  the  occasion  of  a  fire  at  Baden  near  Vienna. 
The  hurried  presentation  of  an  oak-wreath  to  the  dying  man  is  an  allu- 
sion to  a  letter  of  thanks  written  to  him  by  the  Emperor  of  Austria.  The 
vault  is  closed.    Custodian  (50  pf.)  at  the  entrance  to  the  cemetery  (right). 

On  the  N.  side  rises  the  Matuoleum  of  Elector  William  II.  of  Hessen 
(d.  1847)  by  Messemer,  containing  a  crucifix  in  marble  by  Zwerger^  and  two 
marble  sarcophagi  with  life-size  figures  of  the  prince  and  his  wife  by 
X/aunitz.  Two  other  monuments  near  it  are  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers 
and  insurgents  who  fell  in  1848.  To  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  is  the 
tomb  of  the  philosopher  Schopenhauer  (d.  1860). 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  new  cemetery  is  the  Jewish  Burial 
Ground,  open  daily  except  Saturdays.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  large  marble 
sarcophagus  with  Hebrew  inscriptions,  by  Launitz,  to  the  memory  of  Carl 
M.  V,  Rothtchild  (d.  1855). 

Outside  the  Eschenheimer  Thor,  near  the  Eschenheim  road, 
is  the  irrenanstaU  or  lunatic  asylum,  a  large  Gothic  edifice.  To  the 
right,  nearer  the  town,  is  an  Institute  of  Deaconesses. 

Near  the  Bockenheimer  Thor  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  rises  the  magnificent 
"^Opera  House,  designed  by  Lucae  (d.  1877),  and  opened  in  1880. 
The  sculptures  in  the  pediment  in  front  are  by  Kaupert^  those  at 
the  back  by  Bumpf^  both  of  Frankfort.  Most  of  the  mural  paintings 


218    Bouie  ^3.  FRANKFORT.  St&del  GaUery, 

in  the  interior  were  execnted  from  cartoons  by  8Umle ;  the  drop-* 
scene,  representing  the  Prologne  to  Fanst,  is  by  Beer  and  Orat%, 

On  a  height  to  the  right  of  the  fiockenheimer  Landstrasse,  1  H. 
from  the  town,  is  sitnated  the  *Palm  Oarden ,  a  pleasant  park  con- 
veniently reached  by  tramway,  containing  extensiyehot-hooses.  Con- 
certs every  afternoon  and  evening,  adm.  1  m.  Restaurant,  see  p.  209. 
—  In  the  Oomelins-Strasse,  to  the  left  of  the  Bockenheim  road,  is 
a  Panorama,  The  subject  is  changed  from  time  to  time ;  at  present 
it  is  the  'Battle  of  Weissenburg',  painted  by  Braun  of  Munich. 
Adm.  9-6,  2  m.,  Sun.  ^/2-i  m. 

The  *Zoologioal  Ckirden  (PI.  K,  2, 3 ;  ^Restaurant),  with  its  ex- 
tensive grounds,  is  situated  on  the  Pfingstweide,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  town.  The  tower  commands  a  line  *View.  In  the  ruin  is  a 
salt-water  aquarium  (50  pf.).  Adm.  1  m. ;  concerts  in  the  after- 
noon and  evening;  tramway,  p.- 209;  comp.  Plan,  p.  209. 

The  *8t&del  Art-Institute  (PI.  40;  G,  7),  an  establishment  to 
which  Frankfort  owes  its  high  rank  in  the  artistic  world,  was 
founded  by  Joh,  Fred.  Stadel  (d.  1816) ,  a  citizen  of  Frankfort, 
who  bequeathed  his  pictures  and  engravings,  his  houses,  and 
1,200,000  fl.  (100,000i.)  to  the  town,  in  order  to  found  a  School 
of  Art  (now  attended  by  about  200  students).  The  former  directors 
were  Veit  and  Passavant  (d.  1861) ;  the  present  director  is  Herr 
Steinle.  The  collection  consists  of  pictures,  engravings,  drawings 
by  eminent  masters,  and  numerous  casts.  The  handsome  building 
now  occupied  by  the  collections,  situated  on  the  Schaumain-Quai  at 
Sachsenhausen,  was  erected  with  the  surplus  funds  of  the  institu- 
tion from  the  designs  of  Oscar  Sommer,  and  was  opened  in  1878. 
It  consists  of  a  large  central  building  in  the  Italian  Renaissance 
style,  with  a  fine  portal  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps ,  a 
dome,  and  two  projecting  wings.  The  material  is  gray  sandstone. 
The  six  large  reliefs  above  the  round -arched  windows  are  very 
effective.  Admission  gratis,  Sun.  11-1,  Wed.  11-4,  other  days 
11-2;  catalogue  1  m. 

CFround  Floor.  The  entrance  opens  on  an  octagonal  Ante-Ghambbb, 
which  contains  casts  from  the  tomb  of  Maximilian  I.  at  Innsbruck.  — 
The  rooms  to  the  left  of  this  are  devoted  to  the  Library  and  the  collec- 
tions of  Drawings  and  Engravings ;  the  latter  collection,  containing  80,000 
specimens,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Germany  (adm.  Tues.  &  Frid.  11-1  A 
4-6,  Mon.  &  Thurs.  11-1).  —  The  rooms  on  the  right  contain  Casts  of 
ancient,  medieeval,  and  Renaissance  sculptures.  Also  a  ^Terracotta  Altar 
by  Giorgio  Andreoli  of  Gubbio  (1511),  and  a  *Shield  of  ffercules  in  bronze, 
modelled  by  L.  von  ScTueanthaler  from  Hesiod^s  description,  and  a  number 
of  antique  vases. 

Upper  Floor.  From  the  staircase  we  first  enter  an  Antb-Boom  con- 
taining a  bust  of  J.  Fr.  Stadel,  the  founder  of  the  Institute,  by  Zwerger, 
and  a  few  ancient  sculptures.    The  other  rooms  are  occupied  by  the  — 

'^'^Picture  Gallery,  the  most  important  municipal  collection  in  Germany. 
The  Early  Italian  Schools  are  somewhat  poorly  represented,  but  there 
are  a  number  of  good  works  by  the  Venetian  masters.  The  best  of  these  is 
the  Four  Fathers  of  the  Church  by  Moretto  {da  BresdOy  properly  AUssan- 
dro  Bonvicino^  d.  1560).  The  St.  Sebastian  attributed  to  Antonello  da 
Messina  is  probably  a  copy  of  the  picture  at  Berlin.  —  A  most  attractive 


Siadel  Gallery.  FRANKFORT.  S8,  Route.     219 

work,  notwithstanding  its  insignificant  size,  is  the  Cardinal  Borgia  of 
VelazqueZy  finely  coloured  and  admirably  individualised.  —  Among  the 
finest  works  of  the  Easlt  Flemish  School  of  the  15th  cent,  are  a  Ma- 
donna by  John  van  Eyck^  the  Tiburtine  Sibyl  showing  the  Emperor 
Augustus  a  vision  of  the  Virgin  in  Heaven  by  Dierick  Bouts,  and  the  softly- 
coloured  portrait  of  a  man  by  Memiing.  A  number  of  later  Flemish  works 
have  flJso  recently  been  purchased  by  the  directors.  The  St.  Jerome  be- 
fore the  crucifix  and  the  Annunciation,  the  latter  perhaps  by  Qerard 
David,  are  works  of  more  than  mediocre  value.  —  Among  the  works  of 
the  Eaklt  Gebman  School  several  by  the  Cologne  Masters,  by  DUrer,  and 
by  the  two  HoU>eins  are  conspicuous,  but  the  genuineness  of  the  Fiirleger 
and  of  the  elder  Dilrer  is  disputed.  The  Passion  Scenes  by  the  Elder 
Holbein  are  genuine,  but  harsh  and  repellent  in  style.  On  the  other  hand 
the  profile  of  a  young  man  with  a  carnation  (Simon  George  of  Cornwall) 
by  the  Younger  Holbein  is  remarkable  for  delicacy  of  conception.  —  The 
gallery  has  also  been  much  enriched  of  late  years  by  the  purchase  of 
works  of  the  Dutch  School  of  the  ITth  cent.,  the  merits  of  which  have 
recently  begun  to  be  duly  appreciated.  The  most  valuable  of  these  is 
R«mJbrand(*s  Parable  of  the  labourers  in  the  vineyard,  painted  in  1656, 
and  purchased  from  the  King  of '  Holland's  collection.  The  picture 
at  first  sight  presents  a  monotonous  appearance,  but  on  closer  inspection 
we  observe  that  the  master  has  most  skilfully  relieved  the  prevailing 
yellow  tone  with  shades  of  brown  and  gray,  delicately  blended  with 
red.  Frans  Hals  of  Haarlem^  the  greatest  of  the  other  Dutch  masters, 
is  admirably  represented  by  a  large  portrait  of  a  lady  and  the  busts  of 
a  young  married  couple.  —  Most  conspicuous  among  the  Modesn  Pioxubss 
in  the  Stadel  Gallery  are  numerous  works  of  the  older  Diisseldorf  School, 
and  of  the  so-called  'yazarenes',  of  whom  Overbeck  at  Rome  was  the  chief. 
That  master's  large  picture  representing  the  Triumph  of  Religion  in  the 
Arts,  which  would  have  been  more  suitable  as  a  mural  painting,  forms 
an  excellent  exponent  of  the  views  of  his  school.  Though  executed  but 
a  few  decades  ago,  many  of  these  works  are  almost  more  foreign  to  mod- 
ern taste  in  their  style  and  touch  than  the  pictures  of  ttie  old  Dutch 
masters.  Kot  only  do  the  works  of  Olivier,  Ramboux,  Pforr,  Passavant^ 
and  the  earlier  Diisseldorf  masters  present  a  most  primitive  style  of 
execution,  but  their  subjects  are  of  a  character  which  is  now  but  little 
appreciated.  There  is  also  a  marked  difTerence  between  the  various 
schools  in  their  colouring,  as  for  example  in  the  treatment  of  the  red 
used  by  Lessing  in  his  Council  of  Constance,  as  contrasted  with  that  used 
by  the  Belgian  Gallait,  and  still  more  with  that  used  by  Velazquez.  The 
names  of  the  artists  appear  on  the  picture-frames. 

Room  I  (to  the  left).  Netherlandish  Masters  of  the  17th  century.  To 
the  left  of  the  door :  193.  Aart  de  Oelder,  The  artist  painting  a  woman ; 
256,  258.  Aart  van  der  Neer,  Moonlight-scenes  ^  182.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of 
a  lady  (1636);  155.  Tenters  the  Younger,  Rustic  Tavern  j  184.  F.  Bol,  Por- 
trait of  a  man;  *'181.  Rembrandt,  Parable  of  the  Labourers  in  the  vineyard  •/ 
(1666);  *175.  Frans  Hals,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  Tenters  the  Younger,  156. 
Companion  picture  to  Xo.  155,  151.  Farmyard ;  149.  A.  Brouwer,  A  bitter 
potion ;  143.  Van  Dyck,  Young  man ;  330.  J.  de  Heem,  Festal  apparatus 
and  fruit;  153.  Dav.  Teniers,  The  smoker.  —  188.  G,  van  den  Eeckhout, 
Portrait;  290.  Hobbema,  Forest;  245.  Sal.  van  Ruisdael,  River  landscape; 
131.  Rubens^  Child  in  a  small  chair;  *217.  Pieter  de  Hooch,  Lady  and  grey- 
hound ;>(*173,  *174.  Frans  Hals,  A  Dutchman  (1638)  and  his  wife;  269.  /. 
Ruisdael,  BrooklStteT  a  thunder-storm;  260,  261.  Everdingen,  Storm,  Mill; 
127.   Rubens,  King  David  playing  on  the  harp ;    194.    Janson  van  Keulen, 


A.  van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  Hendrik  du  Buys ;  A.  van  Ostade,  Dead  swine ; 
Jan  van  der  Meer  van  Delft,  The  Geographer;  Jan  van  Huysum,  Flower- 
piece. 

Room  II.    Italian  and  Spanish  Masters.    To  the  left:  *44.  Moretto,  Ma-^^ 
donna  enthroned,  with  SS.  Anthony  and  Sebastian;  30.  Sassoferrato,  Girl 
praying;  49.  P.  Veronese  {t),   Mars  and  Venus;  11.  Sandro  Botticelli,  Por- 
trait Ca  tempera") ;  *57.  Velazquez,  Cardinal  Gaspar  Borgia ;  43a.  Titian, 


220    BouUSS.  FRANKFORT.  Stadel  OaUery. 

Portrait  of  a  man  (under  glaM);  12.  Sandro  Bottieaii^  Kadonna  (^a  tempera'') ; 
06.  Vtlatquez,  The  Infanta  Maria  Harg.  Theresa,  daughter  of  Philip  IV. 
and  consort  of  £mp.  Leopold  I. ;  1.  Barnaba  da  Modena ,  Madonna  (^a 
tempera')}  25.  Fr.  Franeia,  Portrait  of  a  man;  47.  Moroni ,  Carthusian 
monk;  39.  Oitna  da  Conegliano^  Madonna;  09.  iS^a^noIetto.  Susannah ;  42. 
Sa>.  del  Pionibo.  Portrait  of  a  lady  of  the  Medici  family;  *S5.  Oiov.  BeUini, 
Madonna  and  Child,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Elisabeth ;  *46.  Moretto, 
Madonna  with  the  four  Latin  Church  Fathers,  SS.  Gregory,  Jerome,  Am- 
brose, and  Augustine  (originally  in  S.  Carlo  al  Corso  in  Rome);  16.  Peruffino, 
Madonna;  14a.  A.  Brotuino,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  38.  Vitt.  Carpaecio,  Ma- 
donna and  Child  with  St.  John ;  48.  Tintoretto,  The  Doge  Marcantonio 
Memo.  —  19.  Maerino  d^Alba.  Triptych  for  an  altar  ('a  tempera');  32.  An- 
tonello  da  Meuina^  St.  Sebastian ;  9.  J^.  PesellOy  Virgin  and  Child ;  7.  Oiov. 
da  Fiesole,  Madonna  enthroned  (*a  tempera") ;  41.  Oiorffione,  St.  Maurice ; 
^  *29.  Ouido  Beni,  Christ  scourged ;  33,  34.  Carlo  Crivelli,  Annunciation ;  20. 
Ces.  da  SettOy  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria;  26.  Innocemo  da  Imola,  As- 
sumption; 18.  Mantegna,  St.  Mark.  (*a  tempera"). 

Booh  III.  (to  the  left  of  Boom  11.).  Later  Italian  and  French  Masters. 
51,  52.  Canaletto,  Palace  of  the  Doges  at  Venice.  '        ^ 

Boom  IV.  (to  the  right  of  Boom  11.).  Earlier  Flemish  and  German 
Masters.  To  the  left:  62,  63.  School  of  Cologne  (ascribed  to  Stephan  Loeh- 
ner^  p.  28),  Martyrdom  of  the  Apostles  (twelve  scenes);  100.  Roger  van  der 
Weyden,  Virgin  with  SS.  Peter,  John,  Cosmas  and  Damianus,  perhaps 
painted  about  1450  for  Piero  and  Giov.  de'  Medici  in  Florence;  102-10o. 
School  of  R.  van  der  Weyden,  Trinity  (in  grisaille) ,  St.  Veronica,  Madonna 
and  Child,  The  Malefactors  crucified  with  Christ,  Crucifixion;  83.  A. 
DUrery  Job's  wife  pouring  water  on  him  to  alleviate  his  sufferings ;  99. 
Petrus  Cristus  (a  pupil  of  Hubert  van  Eyck),  'Madonna  of  Lucca",  so-called 
from  the  Duke  of  Lucca,  its  former  proprietor  (the  date,  1447,  erroneously 
changed  to  1417);  98.  Jan  van  £yek,  Madonna,  formerly  in  the  possession 
of  the  Duke  of  Lucca ;  73.  Hane  Baldung  Orien,  Heavenly  and  earthly  love ; 
101.  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Three  sections  of  an  altar-piece  of  St.  John; 
110.  Oerard  David ,  Annunciation ;  *71.  Holbein  the  Younger ,  Simon  George  of 
Cornwall;  97.  Dierick  Bout*,  The  Sibyl  foretelling  the  birth  of  Christ  to 
the  Emp.  Augustus. 

The  following  five  cabinets  contain  Netherlandish  and  German  works 
of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  Cab.  V. :  64,  65,  66.  B.  Bolbein  the  Elder , 
Scenes  of  the  Passion;  to  the  right,  115.  Netherlandish  School  (beginning 
of  the  16th  cent.).  Entombment;  opposite,  93.  Master  of  the  Death  of  the 
Virgin  (Jan  Joest),l?iei^.  St.  Veronica,  Joseph  of  Arimathsea  (a  triptych). 
—  Cab.  VI. :  67,  68,  69,  70.  Bolbein  the  Elder,  Passion  Scenes;  84.  DUrer, 
Portrait  of  his  father  (forged  inscription);  107.  B.  Memling,  Portrait;  85. 
A.  DUrer^  Girl  of  the  Fiirleger  family;  on  the  centre-wall,  94,  95,  96, 
Earth.  Bruyn,  Portraits;  74.  Chr.  Amberger,  Portrait;  L.  Cranach  the  Elder, 
88.  Nude  woman  with  a  veil,  86.  Madonna  and  Child ;  113.  Quinten  Massys, 
Portrait;  108.  Memling ,  St.  Jerome  before  a  crucifix;  72.  Bolbein  the 
Younger  (?),  Man  with  a  sick  child.  —  Cab.  VII. :  320.  Adr.  van  de  Velde, 
Meadow  beside  a  forest ;  205.  Adr,  van  Ostade,  Bam ;  204.  Oerard  Terburg, 
Woman  drinking  wine;  319.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Shepherd;  Teniers  the 
Younger  164.  Windmill,  (opposite)  157.  Two  peasants  beside  the  hearth, 
152.  St.  Jerome;  310.  Ph.  Wouwerman,  Cavalier  at  the  door  of  a  tavern 
(purchased  for  770?.);  271.  J.  vanRuisdael,  winter  landscape.  —  Cab.  VIII. : 
3U6.  Oer.  Dou,  Girl  with  a  candle  preparing  supper  (5131.);  A.  Elshaimer, 
137.  Paul  and  Barnabas  at  Lystra,  338.  Landscape  with  Bacchus  and  nymphs ; 
284.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-piece;  147,  148.  A.  Brouwer,  Operations  on 
peasants;  Jan  Steen,  216.  Alchemist,  214.  Moses  smiting  the  rock,  215. 
Man  jesting  with  a  girl.  —  We  now  traverse  Cab.  IX.,  and  reach  — 

Boom  X.,  the  copying-room,  which  contains  a  bust  of  Prof.  J.  Becker, 
by  Kaupert. 

The  following  five  cabinets  contain  examples  of  Flemish  and  Dutch 
masters  of  the  17th  and  18th  cent.,  and  of  the  cognate  Frankfort  paint- 
ers of  the  same  period.  Cab.  XI.:  213.  Jan  Weenix,  Tinker.  —  Cab.  XIII. : 
232.  Mieris,  Old  woman  with  a  flask ;  373,  374.  Stehate  (p.  231),   Boy  and 


Stddel  GaUery. 


FRANKFOBT. 


28.  Route.    221 


girl  by  candle-light.  —  Cab.  XIV.:  398,  399.  TUcKbein,  Portraits;  375. Seekatg, 
Dulcimer-player. 

Room  XVI.  is  devoted  to  modem  German  masters  from  1810  to  1840. 
To  the  left  of  the  door :  415.  Ramboux,  Capuchin  preaching  in  the  Colos- 
seum at  Some.  To  the  right  of  the  door:  411.  Pcusavani^  St.  Hubert; 
412.  Pforr^  Budolf  of  Hapsburg  presenting  his  horse  to  the  priest;  422. 
-s^  Schnorr  von  Carols/eldy  The  Good  Samaritan ;  404.  J.  A.  Kochy  Ifoah  after 
the  Flood.  —  **413.  Overbeck,  The  Triumph  of  Religion  in  the  Arts  (1840);  ^^^ 
one  of  its  chief  points  of  interest  is  its  wealth  of  allusion,  to  understand 
which  the  visitor  should  consult  the  catalogue. 

RooH  XVII.   The  whole   of  the  farther  wall  is  occupied  by  a  large  ^' 
'^Fresco  by  PMlip  Veit  (Ko.  416),  representing  the  'Introduction  of  the  s 
Arts  into  Qermany\  with  figures  of  ^Italia'  and  'Germania*  on  thrones. 
This  work,  the  masterpiece  of  the  painter,   completed  in  1836,  was  skil-  - 


lully  sawn  out  of  the  wall  in  the  old  building  and  transferred  hither.  — 
The  room  also  contains  ten  Biblical  cartoons  (Kos.  506-512)  by  Sfeinle, 

Room  XVIII.    *414.     W,  Behadow^    The  Wise   and   Foolish  Virgins;  v 
468a.  Fr.  Brentcmo^  Costume  picture.  —  We  now  retrlice  our  steps  through 
Room  XVII.,  and  enter  — 

Room  XIX.,  the  principal  room  of  modem  works.  To  the  left  of  the 
door:    U4.  E.  BMnU.The  Tiburtine  Sibyl;   417421.  Ph.  Vmt,   Sketches; 

>V^*463.  A.  Aehenbaeh^  Storm  at  sea;     C.  F.  Letting,  440.    Landscape,  with 
accessories  from  the  Thirty  Years'  War;   *437.  John  Huss  at  the  Council  fM' 
of  Constance,  11  ft.  high,  14  ft.  long,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  works  of 
the  Diisseldorf  school ;  442.  A.  Zimmettnann,  Mountain-torrent  after  a  thunder^  t- 
storm ;  439,  440.  Lestingj  Woodland  scenes ;  448.  Pose,  Schloss  Elte  (p.  181). 
/  '=^=^  *4So.    Letsing,  Ezzelino  in  prison,  refusing  spiritual   consolation   and 
)  resolving  to  die  of  hunger;  424.  R.  Rottmann,  Reggio  (Calabria)  and  Ht. 
Etna;  *430.  M.  v.  Sehmnd,  Contest  of  singers  at  the  Wartbarg,  a  replica  in  ^-^^ 
oils  of  his  fresco  at  the  Wartburg.    —  ifii.  H.  Xey«,  Scene  in  front  of  a^ 

^wv Dutch  inn ;  450.  C.  Morgenstem,  Italian  coast-scene ;  •447,  J.  Becker,  Shepherd 
struck  by  lightning;  419.  Ph.  Veit,  Repose  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt; 
466.  O.  8aal,  Hardanger^f^ord  by  evening-light;  405.  Koch,  Landscape, 
with  the  rape  of  Hylas  by  nynvpha,  perhaps  Koch's  best  work;   433.  /. 

-srHUbner,  Job  and  his  friends ;  431.  M.  von  Schwind,  Dance  of  elves ;  436. 
ff.  Funk,  Ruin  on  a  lake  by  morning-light ;  463.  A.  Calame,  Alpine  scene ; 
460.  OallaU,  Abdication  of  Charles  V.,  a  small  replica  of  the  large  picture 
at  Brussels ;  441.  Leaing,  Centenarian  oak.  —  454.  A.  Rethel,  Daniel  in 
the  den  of  lions. 

Room  XX.  472-481.  Ramboux^  Ten  coloured  sketches  from  Dante; 
471.  Overbeck,  Joseph  sold,  and  482.  Ph.  Veit ,  The  seven  years  of  plenty, 
two  cartoons  of  the  famous  frescoes  in  the  Casa  Bartholdy  at  Rome.  The 
remainder   of   this  room,    and  Rooms  XXI.,  XXII.    contain  a  selection 


222    BouU28,  GERNSHEIM. 

(changed  weekly)  of  engravings  and  drawings,  including  drawings  and 
coloured  sketches  of  BaphaeFs  frescoes  in  the  Vatican.  Room  XXI.  also 
contains  the  design  for  Veifs  ceiling  -  painting  of  the  ^Shield  of  Achilles'* 
as  described  by  Homer,  in  one  of  the  rooms  of  Hhe  building  now  occupied 
by  the  Mittelrheinische  Kunstgewerbe-Verein  (p.  211). 

Room  XXIII.  486-496.  Schnorr.  Cartoons  for  the  frescoes  in  the  Villa 
Massimi  at  Rome ;  470.  (hmelitUy  Last  Judgment,  coloured  sketch  for  the 
picture  at  Munich. 

From  Frankfort  to  Nauheim^  Oieaen,  and  Cassel^  see  Baedeker's 
^Northern  Germany'.  The  first  stations  are :  Bocktnhevm  (seep.  57), 
JBonames(6M.),  and  Fti&«^(872M.),  where  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
bath  have  been  found. 

Fbom  Fbankpobt  to  Matbnob  (HtisUchtLudwigshahn)^  22 V2  M. , 
in  3/^-1  hr.  (fares  2  m.  90,  2  m.  20,  1  m.  50  pf. ;  express  3  m.  20, 
2  m.  40).  —  The  train  starts  from  the  Main-Neckar  station  (p.  208), 
crosses  the  Main,  and  joins  the  line  from  Sachierikausen  near 
(21/2  M.)  FonihaiuB,  It  runs  at  first  through  wood,  but  afterwards 
affords  a  view  of  the  Taunus  to  the  right.  The  intermediate  sta- 
tions, all  of  which  express  trains  pass  without  stopping,  are  Qold- 
stetn  (see  below);  7  M.  Schtoanheim ;  9  M.  Kelsterbach;  14  M. 
Raunheim;  16M.  BiisseUheim;  I8V2M.  Bischofsheim  (^.230).  The 
train  then  crosses  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  152 ,  to  the  Neu- 
thor  station,  and  runs  thence  beneath  the  citadel  to  the  central 
station  in  Mayenee  (p.  142). 


Fbom  Fbankfobt  to  Mannhbim  by  the  ^Rledbahn',  one  of  the 
lines  of  the  Hesaisehe  Ludwigabahn  (60  M.  ^  in  1V2-2V2^^^'» 
fares  6  m.  25,  4  m.  15,  2  m.  70  pf.).  From  Frankfort  to  Forsthaus, 
see  above.  4M.  Goldstein  f  9  M.  Walldorf;  11  M.  Morfelden.  From 
(17  M.)  Domhtrg  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Qroitgerau  (p.  230). 
19  M.  Dorriheim;  201/2  M.  Leeheim-Wolfskehlen.  22  M.  Qoddelau- 
Erfelden  is  the  junction  for  the  Darmstadt  and  Worms  railway 

fp.  234),  which  coincides  with  the  Mannheim  line  as  far  as  Biblls 
see  below).  23 V2  M.  Stoekstadt,  on  the  Rhine;  26  M.  Biebes- 
heim.  28  M.  0emtheim  (Karpfen ;  Weisses  Ross),  a  small  and  busy 
town  on  the  Rhine,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  773  and  de- 
stroyed by  Mtflac  in  1689.  It  contains  a  monument  to  Peter 
Schdffer,  one  of  the  inventors  of  printing,  who  was  born  here. 
At  (33  M.)  BibliSj  with  an  imposing  church  with  two  towers,  the 
line  to  Resengarten  and  Worms  diverges  to  the  right  (p.  234); 
36  M.  Burstadty  junction  of  the  Bensheim  and  Worms  railway 
(p.  236).  At  (40  M.)  Lampertheim  (branch-line  to  Rosengarten  and 
Worms)  the  Rledbahn  divides,  the  right  branch  leading  by  Waldhof 
to  the  (48  M.)  Neckar  suburb  of  Mannheim,  while  the  left  passes 

Waldhof  and  Kdferthal  and  leads  to  the  central  station  at  Mannheim 

(p.  252). 


EiXtmclrr  i: 


*  t         1  "~J" """ 


&t*gi!Wfk.iimi3lf  ^nm^fM^wmA 


223 


29.  The  Tannns. 


The  name  Taunut,  in  the  wider  sense,  applies  to  the  whole  of  the 
mountainous  region  between  the  Main,  the  Rhine,  and  the  Lahn,  but  is 
usually  restricted  to  the  southern  mountains  of  that  district,  sloping  down 
to  the  Main  and  Rhine,  and  extending  from  l^^auheim  on  the  £.  to  Ass- 
mannshausen  on  the  W.  The  highest  points  of  this  range  are  the  Great 
Feldberg  (2900  ft.),  the  Little  Feldberg  (TTlSft.),  and  the  AlthUnig  (2386  ft.). 

One  and  a  half  or  two  days  suffice  for  a  glimpse  at  the  most  inter- 
esting spots  in  this  district :  Railway  to  Eomlbuvg^  where  the  night  is  spent, 
50  minutes.  Kext  morning  by  an  early  train  to  Oherw^eeX  and  thence  to 
the  top  of  the  FtMbevg  3  hrs.,  or  from  Homburg  to  the  Feldberg  direct, 
also  in  3  hrs. ;  descent  to  Kdnigstein  1  Vi  hr. ;  thence  by  Falkenstein  to  Cron- 
berg  V/t  hr. ;  or  by  the  Roisert  to  Eppatein  in  2Va  hrs.,  at  either  of  which 
the  railway  is  again  reached. 

a.  Tannns  Railway  from  Frankfort  to  Castel  (Mayence)  and 
Wiethaden. 

Railway  to  Coitel  (20V»  M.)  in  V4-I  hr- ;  ^"8  2  m.  80,  2  m.  10,  1  m. 
40  pf.,  express  3  m.  10,  2  m.  30  pf.  —  To  Wiesbaden  (26  M.)  in  1-1  Vz  hr. 
(fares  3  m.  40,  2  m.  60,  1  m.  70  pf. ;  express  3  m.  80,  2  m.  90  pf.). 

The  Taunua  Railway  j  one  of  the  oldest  In  Germany,  was  opened 
in  1839.  Leaving  the  town,  the  train  passes  the  OaUenwarte  on  the 
left,  and  Bockenheim  on  the  right.  The  Homburg  line  diverges  to 
the  right  (p.  224).  The  Nidda  is  now  crossed,  and  the  train  reaches  — 

51/2  M.  Hochflt  (290  ft.;  Frankfurter  Hof;  Ooldner  Adler; 
Landsberg,  at  the  station),  a  thriving  little  town,  with  6518  inhah., 
and  possessing  an  interesting  *Church  of  8t,  Juatinua ,  erected  in 
1090,  with  a  Gothic  choir  added  in  1443.  A  palace  of  the  Electors 
of  Mayence  here  was  destroyed  by  the  Frankforters  in  1634,  but 
the  handsome  tower  is  still  standing. 

From  Hochst  to  Soden,  see  p.  226.  —  From  Hochst  to  Hofheim^  Epp- 
atein,  and  Limbiirg^  see  p.  228. 

9Y2  M.  Hatterskeim.  A  good  view  to  the  N.  is  obtained  of  the 
principal  peaks  of  the  Taunus  Mountains,  The  white  Hofheimer 
Chapel  (p.  228),  on  the  hill-side,  is  also  conspicuous. 

At  (131/2  M.)  Florsheim  (Hirsch),  a  village  on  the  Main,  omni- 
buses and  carriages  are  in  waiting  to  convey  travellers  to  the 
(1^2  ^0^^^^^  of  Weilbach (sulphur-springs),  with  its  Curhaus  and 
pleasant  grounds.  The  village  of  Weilbach  lies  3/^  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
baths.  Pleasing  view  from  the  ^KanxeV  (pulpit),  a  hill  with  four 
trees,  1/2  M.  above  Dieder^ergen,  and  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Weilbach. 

171/2  M.  Hochheim  (407  ft.;  *8chwan'),  a  small  town  with 
2814  inhab.,  celebrated  for  its  wines.  The  most  esteemed  is  yielded 
by  the  vineyards  of  the  old  Domdechanei  (deanery),  now  a  shooting- 
box  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau.  The  sparkling  'Hock'  made  at  Hoch- 
heim, whence  the  name,  is  much  prized,  and  is  chiefly  exported  to 
England. 

On  entering  (20^/2  M.)  Castel  (p.  142),  the  line  Intersects  the 
fortifications. 

Steamboats  from  Castel  to  Mayence  start  close  to  the  station.  Om- 
nibus and  Taamwat  to  the  Central  Station  in  Mayence,  see  p.  142.    Caq 


224    RouUiB.  HOMBUBG.  TaunxM, 

to  Hayence  (preferable  for  traTellers  continali^  their  journey  at  once  by 
steamer),  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  1  m.,  34  pera.  1  m.  40 pf.  \  two-horse,  1  m.  40 
or  1  m.  80  pf.  \  each  box  20  pf. 

23  M.  Curve^  where  the  through-carriages  to  the  Rheingau  are 
detached  (p.  133),  and  which  is  connected  by  a  short  branch-line 
with  BUhfieh  (p.  126).   26  M.  Wiesbaden,  see  p.  135. 

b.  From  Frankfort  to  Hombiirg  and  Cronberg. 

Railway  to  Hamburg,  11  H.,  in  33-43  min.  (fares  1  m.  60,  1  m.  10, 
80pf.)i  to  Cronhtrg,  9Va  M.,  in  46  min.  (fares  1  m.  30,  90,  60  pf.).  — 
The  trains  start  from  the  Main-Weser  Station. 

Soon  after  qnlttlng  the  town  the  train  dlyerges  from  the  Taunus 
line  (p.  223)  and  crosses  the  Nidda.  2  M.  Bockenheim,  a  manu- 
facturing suburb  of  Frankfort  with  17,452  inhab.,  contains  a  pic- 
turesque church,  an  old  watch-tower  and  large  barracks.  It  is  con- 
nected with  Frankfort  by  tramway  and  electric  railway.  3  M.  Rodel- 
heinij  junction  of  the  Cronberg  line  (p.  226) ;  7  M.  WeUkirchen, 
9M.  06eftir«ci(Schutzenhof;  Bar),  a  very  old  town,  is  much  visited 
by  the  Frankforters  in  summer,  and  possesses  a  Gothic  church  con- 
secrated in  1481.  (Ascent  of  the  Feldberg  from  Oberursel,  see 
p.  228.) 

11  M.  Hombnrg.  —  Hotels.  'Bussisohbb  Her,  'Vibb  Jahkbszkitbn, 
*ViGTOBiA,  ^Bbllevue,  *H6tbl  dd  Pabc,  all  houses  of  the  first  class,  with 
prices  to  correspond ;  *HdTEL  Bikchelmanm  ;  *£usopai8Cheb  Hqf,  suitable 
for  tourists.  —  Second  class :  Pbince  of  Wales  \  *H6tel  Windsob,  moderate  •, 
Hotel  Fbustneb,  moderate;  Ekglischeb  Hof;  *Adleb,  well  spoken  of, 
convenient  for  a  single  night*,  Eisenbahn  Hotel  (at  the  station);  HStbl 

BiSSEB. 

Restaurant  at  the  *Curhaus,  D.  at  1  oVlock  3,  at  6  o'clock  4  m.  — 
Beer.  Ooldene  Rote;  Lauer,  in  the  main  street;  *Kk»dderadaUch,  near 
the  post-office  (also  wine-room). 

Xuaic  in  summer,  8.30  a.  m. ,  by  the  Elisabeth-Brunnen ;  at  3.15  and 
7.30  p.  m.  in  the  Curgarten.    Also  a  theatre,  concerts,  and  balls. 

Tax  for  persons  staying  more  than  five  days:  1  pers.  12  m.,  2  pers. 
20  m.,  3  pers.  25  m.,  for  a  larger  party  30  m. 

Carriage  with  one  horse  from  the  station  to  the  town,  1-2  pers.  60, 
3-4  pers.  90  pf.,  box  20  pf. ;  within  the  town  or  to  the  mineral  springs, 
with  one  horse  50  or  70,  with  two  horses  80  pf. ;  to  Cronberg  with  one 
horse  7  or  9,  with  two  horses  12  m. ;  to  Saalburg  with  one  horse  4V3  or 
5V2)  with  two  horses  7m.  (vicl  Konig-WUhelms  Weg  Im.  more  in  each  case). 

English  Ohurch,  Ferdinand-Str.,  near  the  railway  station,  with  accom- 
modation for  500  people  *,  services  at  11  a.  m.  and  4  p.  m. ;  chaplain,  Rev. 
C.  B.  Brigetocke,  M.  A.  -^  Preahyterian  Services  in  the  Sehlosskirche  at  11.30 
a.m.  and  7.30  p.m.  in  July  and  August. 

Homburg  vor  der  Hoh\  a  town  with  about  8650  inhab. ,  situated 
on  a  spur  of  the  Taunus  Mts. ,  the  residence  of  the  Landgraves  of 
Hessen-Homburg,  a  collateral  line  of  the  grand-ducal  family  of  Hes- 
sen,  from  1662  to  1866,  when  this  branch  of  the  family  became  ex- 
tinct ,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  watering-places  in  the  Bhin eland 
(11,000  visitors  annually).  In  the  Louisen-Strasse,  the  main  street, 
which  runs  to  the  N.  W.  of  the  station ,  are  situated  the  principal 
hotels,  the  theatre,  and  the  Curhaus. 

The  Curhaus ,  the  chief  rendezvous  of  visltorg,  built  in  1840 
and  extended  in  1863 ,  contains  a  namber  of  very  handsome  apart- 


Tonmus.  SAALBUBG.  S9.  Route.    225 

meats,  a  well-supplied  readlng-ioom,  and  the  *Saalburg  Museum* 
(adm.  50  pf.),  a  well-ananged  collection  of  antiquities  found  on  the 
Saalburg  (see  below),  a  good  model  of  the  Saalburg,  and  a  recon- 
struction of  a  Roman  watch-tower.  A  terrace  on  the  N.  side,  partly 
covered  with  glass,  is  a  favourite  resort  in  fine  weather,  and  the 
corridors  of  the  ground-floor  afford  a  sheltered  promenade  during 
rain.    The  large  adjacent  Bath  House  contains  baths  of  every  kind. 

At  the  back  of  the  Gurhaus,  to  the  N.E.,  extend  beautiful 
^Pleasure  OroundSy  in  which,  to  the  right  (E.),  we  observe  the  spark- 
ling chalybeate  and  saline  Springs  (chiefly  prescribed  for  disorders  of 
the  digestive  organs),  ^/^  M.  from  the  Curhaus.  The  chief  of  these 
is  the  Elisdbeth-Brunnen ,  farthest  to  the  E.,  the  water  of  which, 
containing  more  salt  than  the  Rakoczy  mineral- water  at  Kissingen, 
Is  exported  In  considerable  quantity.  Near  the  adjoining  ^Trink- 
halle'  are  well-kept  flower-beds ,  a  palm-house ,  and  an  orangery. 
The  Stahlbrunnen  and  the  Louiaenquelle  are  less  saline  than  the 
Elisabethbrunnen,  but  are  much  richer  In  iron,  especially  the  first- 
named.  The  Kaiserbrunnen  and  the  Ludwigsbrunnen  are  used 
chiefly  for  bathing. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  town  (ascend  the  main  street  and  turn  to 
the  left)  rises  the  ScMosSj  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  land- 
graves. It  was  erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cent. ,  and  has 
been  recently  fitted  up  for  the  use  of  the  Emperor  and  Crown- 
prince  of  Germany.  The  Weisse  Thurm,  which  rises  in  the  court  at 
the  back  to  a  height  of  188  ft.,  commands  an  extensive  view  (fee 
50  pf.).  Above  a  gateway  here  is  the  front  half  of  an  equestrian 
statue,  and  opposite  to  it  a  bust  of  Prince  Frederick,  who,  under  the 
leadership  of  the  Great  Elector,  decided  the  victory  of  the  Bran- 
denburgers  over  the  Swedes  at  Fehrbellln  In  1675  by  the  spirited 
charge  of  his  cavalry.  The  Palace  Garden  (open  to  the  public)  con- 
tains an  orangery,  some  fine  old  cedars,  and  a  fish-pond. 

Walks.  Besides  the  pleasure-grounds  above  mentioned,  the  traveller 
may  also  visit  the  Bard  or  Hardwald,  adjoining  the  Gurhaus  grounds;  the 
Qroue  Tarmentoald,  »/« ^'-  to  the  N. W.  of  Homburg,  and  the  Kleine  Tan- 
nenwald ,  20  min.  to  the  W.  •,  the  Luthereiche ,  Vz  hr.  beyond  the  Grosse 
Tannenwald;  the  Wildpark^  V4  hr.  from  the  Grosse  Tannenwald,  with 
its  numerous  deer;  the  Bdllstein\  the  Rabenatein^  ete. 

Archaeologists  should  visit  the  Baalharg ,  the  remains  of  the  walls  of 
a  Roman  castle,  brought  to  light  by  excavation,  situated  on  a  wooded 
height  of  the  Taunus,  l»/4  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Homburg ,  1340  ft.  above  the 
sea-level,  and  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  left  of  the  Usingen  road.  Walk- 
ers should  follow  the  Elisabethenschneisse  and  the  Lindenweg  (also  call- 
ed the  Kaiser  Wilhelmsweg;  comp.  Map  of  the  Taunus).  The  Saalburg 
formed  one  of  the  forts  belonging  to  the  I^aMgraben  (Limet),  an  extensive 
line  of  intrenchments  constructed  about  70  A.D.  to  protect  Bhaetia  and 
the  Germanic  provinces  against  the  warlike  Germans  and  fulfilling  this 
function  for  about  two  centuries.  It  extended  from  Batisbon  to  the  Hohen- 
staufen,  then  turned  nearly  due  N.  to  Wetzlar,  and  finally  stretched 
westwards  to  Bms  and  the  Seven  Mts.  (p.  64).  —  The  Saalburg  is  the  larg- 
est, so  far  as  known,  of  the  forts  on  the  Pfahlgraben,  measuring  725  by 
480  ft.,  and  is  generally  regarded,  though  without  definite  proof,  as  the 
fortress  re-erected  by  Germanicus ,  son  of  Drusus ,  ^super  vMtigia  paterni 

Bakdbkbb'b  Bhine.    10th  Edit.  15 


226    Route  29.  SODEN.  Taurwu. 

praetidii  in  monte  Tttuno\  The  antiquities  found  here  are  preserved  in  the 
Homburg  Curhaus  (p.  225).  The  Pfahlgraben  itself  is  distinctly  recognis- 
able at  a  point  abont  900  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  Saalburg,  reached  by  follow- 
ing the  alley  cut  throagh  the  wood. 

Ascent  of  the  Orotse  Feldberg,  see  p.  228. 


The  Cronbbbo  Railway  diverges  from  the  Homburg  line  at 
Rodelhelm  (p.  224).  Stations  (51/2  M.  from  Frankfort)  Eschborn 
and  (7  M.)  Nieder-Hochstadt. 

9^/2  M.  Cronberg.  —  HdteU.  *FBAKKruRTKE  Hof,  with  good  paint- 
ings by  Frankfort  artists  in  the  dining-room;  ^Sghutzenhof,  both  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  town,  with  gardens  and  views.  —  Beatauranta. 
Ilahny  at  the  station  \  Oermania^  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  on  the 
road  to  Konigstein. 

Cronberg,  a  small  town  with  2400  inhab.,  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  a  hill,  surrounded  by  productive  gardens,  and  commanded 
by  Schloss  Cronberg,  with  its  conspicuous  and  lofty  tower.  This 
castle  was  built  in  the  13th  cent,  by  the  Counts  of  Cronberg,  who 
resided  here  down  to  1704,  when  the  family  became  extinct.  Part 
of  it  is  still  occupied.  The  old  chapel  contains  tombstones  of  the 
14th  cent. ;  the  windows  of  the  tower  (132  steps,  fatiguing)  com- 
mand a  beautiful  view.  Cronberg  is  a  favourite  summer-resort  of 
the  citizens  of  Frankfort,  including  quite  a  colony  of  artists,  who 
possess  a  number  of  pleasant  villas  in  the  environs,  and,  like 
Konigstein,  it  is  also  well  adapted  as  headquarters  for  excursions 
into  the  Taunus  region.  —  To  Falkenstein  2  M. ;  to  Konigstein  also 
2  M.  (omnibus ;  see  below). 

c.  From  Frankfort  to  Soden.   Kdnigstoin.  Falkenstein. 
Great  Feldberg. 

Railway  to  Soden,  10  M.,  in  V2  hr. ;  fares  i  m.  90,  1  m.,  70  pf. ;  express 
i  m.  50,  1  m.  10  pf. 

From  Frankfort  to  Hockst,  see  p.  223.  —  Thence  by  a  short 
branch-line  vii  Sulzbach  to  — 

Soden.  —  HoteU.  ^-Cubhaus;  *HdTBL  Golloseds,  B.  2-2V2,  I>-  2-2 V«m. ; 
*Edbopaischer  Hop;  ^Fbankfubteb  Hot.  quiet;  Hollandischeb  Hop, 
small;  Hotel  Uhbio,  with  restaurant.  These  hotels  are  all  good  and 
comfortable.  —  Beer  at  Pfaff'i. 

Carriage  per  hour  3  m.,  to  Konigstein  3Vs,  to  Cronberg  4Vs,  to  the  top 
of  the  Feldberg  20  m. 

Yiaitora*  Tax  for  1  pers.  12,  for  2  pers.  18,  for  3-4  pers.  24  m. 

-Sfod«n  (460  ft.),  a  small  town  with  UOOinhab.,  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  Taunus  Mts.  in  the  sheltered  valley  of  the  StUzbach.  On  the 
Konigstein  road,  which  intersects  the  town  from  S.£.  to  N.W.,  are 
most  of  the  hotels,  the  post-office,  and  the  pleasant  Curpark,  with  the 
Curhaus  and  the  New  Bath  House,  admirably  fitted  up.  The  baths 
are  visited  by  about  2500  patients  annually.  The  Springs,  twenty- 
three  in  number,  and  varying  in  temperature  from  52®  to  Sl^'Fahr., 
contain  salt,  iron,  and  carbonic-acid  gas,  and  are  chiefly  prescribed 
for  nervous  complaints  and  derangement  of  the  mucous  membrane. 


Taunus,  KONIGSTEIN.  29.  Route,     227 

They  are  used  both  for  drinking  and  bathing,  and  rise  in  different 
parts  of  the  valley.  The  Milehbrunnen,  Warmbrunnen,  Soolbrunnen, 
and  Champagner-Brunnenj  which  are  chiefly  used  for  drinking,  rise 
in  the  so-called  Haupt-Strasse,  near  the  old  Bath  House. 

Walks.  To  the  Drei  Linden,  a  good  point  of  view,  20  min.  to  the 
N.,  near  ITeaenliain  (see  below);  to  the  Altenfutiner  Thal^  Vi  br.  to  the 
N.W,  •,  to  the  village  of  SuUbach;  to  the  Sodener  Wdldcheny  etc. 

FsoM  SoDEN  TO  Cronberg,  3  M.  —  The  road  diverges  to  the  W.,  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  Curpark.  About  V«  M.  from  Soden  there  is  a  finger- 
post indicating  the  footpath  and  the  carriage-road  to  Cronthal^  which 
possesses  two  saline  springs  (water  exported),  and  to  Cronberg. 

From  Sodbn  to  Konigstbin,  3  M.  (post-omnibus  twice  daily). 
The  road  ascends  gradually,  and  passes  (1  M.)  Neuerihainj  where 
there  is  another  chalybeate  spring  used  for  sanatory  purposes. 

Kdnigstein.  —  Hotela.  Post  or  Lowe,  with  garden,  omn.  to  Cron- 
berg station  TOpf.;  *Stadt  Amsterdam,  with  garden;  *Hiksch,  plain.  — 
Beer  at  the  FeUenkeller.  —  P%ngUr'$  Hydropathic  Establishment.  —  Baths 
and  pension  at  the  Hainbad. 

Kdnigstein  (1190  ft.),  a  picturesquely-situated  little  town  with 
1714  inhab.,  and  a  number  of  pleasant  villas  in  the  environs,  is 
one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  Taunus  region.  To  the  W. 
of  the  town  rise  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Konigstein 
(1490  ft.),  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1796.  This 
stronghold  is  mentioned  in  history  for  the  first  time  in  1225 ;  in 
1581  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Electors  of  Mayence,  whose 
armorial  bearings  are  still  to  be  seen  over  the  entrance ;  in  1792  it 
was  captured  by  the  French,  and  in  1793  by  the  Prussians.  The 
vaults  and  casemates  are  still  partly  preserved.  Fine  view,  especially 
from  the  tower,  the  custodian  of  which  lives  in  the  town. 

From  Konigstein  to  Eppstein,  5  M.,  see  p.  229. 

The  wooded  hill  to  the  N.E.  of  Konigstein  is  crowned  with  the 
ruin  of  Burg  Falkenstein  (1490  ft.),  the  path  to  which  (35  min.) 
is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town.  This 
castle,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  powerful  Archbishop  Kuno  of  Treves, 
was  erected  in  the  14th  cent,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  fortress 
of  Nuring,  and  was  destroyed  in  1688.  *View  from  the  tower, 
a  key  of  which  is  kept  at  Konigstein,  and  another  at  the  village 
of  Falkenstein  (Inn  'Zur  Schonen  Aussicht'),  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
hill.  Adjoining  the  village  is  the  Curanstalt  Falkenstein  (1310  ft.  ^ 
R.  for  a  week  or  upwards  1-972  ni.  per  day,  board  6  m.  per  day), 
to  which  an  omnibus  plies  regularly  from  (2M.)  Cronberg. 

The  highest  point  of  the  Taunus  Mts.  is  the  *€hreat  Feldberg 
(2900  ft.),  the  top  of  which  consists  of  quartzose  rock,  while  the 
slopes  are  composed  of  clay-slate.  The  whole  mountain,  except  the 
flat  grassy  plateau  on  the  summit,  is  clothed  with  beautiful  woods. 
The  *Feldbefghau8,  an  unpretending  inn  at  the  top  (R.  1  m.  20  to 
Im.  70pf.,  D.  at  12.30p.m.  Im.  75pf.,  'pension'  41/2 m. ;  ascent 
of  the  tower  20  pf.) ,  commands  an  admirable  panorama  in  clear 
weather  (see  Ravenstein's  panorama  in  the  dining-room ;  also  some 

15* 


228    RouU  29.  GREAT  FELDBEBG.  Taunus. 

good  pictures  by  Frankfort  painters).  TheblodL  of  quartz,  12  ft.  in 
height,  near  the  inn,  is  mentioned  in  a  document  as  early  as  812, 
where  it  is  called  the  BrunhiliUhbett, 

To  the  S.  of  the  Fddberg  rises  the  AUkonig  (2386  ft. ;  asoent 
more  fatiguing).  The  summit  is  enclosed  hy  a  huge  double  girdle 
of  loose  stones,  with  a  rectangular  outer  rampart  on  the  S.W.  side. 
The  outer  circle  has  a  circumference  of  1660  yds.,  the  inner  one  of 
1260  yds.  These  work*  were  probably  thrown  up  by  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants  of  the  Main  Valley  as  a  place  of  defence  in  time  of 
war.  The  stones  were  probably  originally  arranged  in  layers  with 
trunks  of  trees  between,  so  as  to  form  a  perpendicular  wall. 

Ascent  of  the  Fkldbero  fsom  KCnigstxin,  2  hra.  (carriage  12  m. ; 
guide  unnecessary,  1  m.  70  pf.).  We  ascend  the  Frankfort  and  Lim- 
burg  road  as  far  as  (IV4  M.)  a  finger-post,  which  indicates  the  road  to 
the  right  to  Beiffenberg  and  the  Feldberg^  this  road  passes  the  Seelen- 
bom,  and  reaches  the  (IV4  U-)  so-called  Rothe  Kreuz  (finger-post), 
where  the  Feldberg  road  diverges  to  the  right.  About  1  M.  farther  we 
reach  the  saddle  between  the  Great  and  the  Little  Feldberff,  where  our 
route  joins  the  road  from  the  Fuchatane  (see  below).  In  V4  hr.  more  we 
reach  the  top. 

From  Falkenstbin  (2  hrs.).  A  broad  road  ascends  gradually  from 
the  upper  part  of  the  village  in  1  hr.  to  the  Fuchstanz,  an  open  space 
in  the  wood,  where  several  patiis  meet,  and  whence  the  top  is  reached 
in  1  hr.  more  (finger-post).  We  may  avoid  the  long  circuit  made  by 
the  road  by  following  the  path  to  the  left  at  the  church  of  Falken- 
stein,  which  ascends  the  course  of  the  Beichenbach  and  then  joins  the 
footpath  to  the  Fnchstanz  (not  easy  to  find  without  a  guide).  —  [The 
path  to  the  Altkonig  diverges  from  the  Feldberg  path  about  20  min. 
before  the  latter  reaches  the  Fuchstanz.] 

Fbom  Obebubsbl  (3  hrs.).  Leaving  the  station  (p.  234),  we  pass 
through  the  village  and  follow  the  road  ascending  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  brook.  Beyond  the  (IVa  hr.)  Hoht  Mwh  spinning-mill,  we  quit  the 
road  at  the  finger-post  inscribed  'Feldberg  iiber  den  Buchborn\  whence 
the  ridge  is  reached  in  40  minutes.  We  then  follow  the  Pfahlgraben, 
passing  the  Stoeibom,  a  Boman  tower,  after  V<  br.,  and  attaining  the  top 
in  V2  br.  more. 

Fbom  Houburg  (3  hrs.)>  Leaving  the  W.  exit  of  the  Schlossgarten 
we  follow  the  poplar  avenue  and  the  ^  ElisabethsTUchneiiae^  (a  cutting  in 
the  wood)  in  a  straight  direction.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  called  the  ^Sand- 
placken'  (2V4  hrs.)  a  finger-post  indicates  the  way  to  the  Feldberg  to  the 
left.  [A  finer  route,  but  less  easy  to  trace,  leaves  the  Schlossgarten  about 
V4  M.  from  the  exit,  diverging  to  the  left  on  this  side  of  the  bridge,  and 
ascending  vi&  the  Frankfurter  f^rsMaiM.] 

d.  From  Frankfort  to  Eppttein  and  Limburg. 

46 V2  M.  Bailwat  in  2V2  hrs.  (fares  6  m.  30,  4  m.  10,  2  m.  70  pf.). 
This  line  forms  the  shortest  route  from  Frankfort  to  Ems. 

The  train  starts  from  the  Ott-Bahnhofj  stopping  at  the  (2^2  M.) 
Fahrthor  Station  (comp.  p.  208).  6  M.  Orieeheim;  9  M.  Hochst,  see 
p.  223.  The  line  now  describes  a  curve  and  crosses  the  Taunas 
railway.    121/2  M.  KrifteL 

14  M.  Hofheim  (*Krone;  Hydropathic  Establishment  of  Fran 
Ripps,  'pens\  40-60  m.  per  week),  a  pleasant  Tillage  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Lorsbacher  Thal^  a  grassy  valley,  enclosed  by  wooded  slopes 
and  watered  by  the  Schwarzbach,     The  lofty  *Hofheimer  CaptUt 


TaufiM.  EPPSTEIN.  29,  BouU.    229 

(760  ft.),  reached  by  the  new  promenades  In  ahont  1/2  ^'- »  *^- 
fords  an  admirable  survey  of  the  extensive  valley  of  the  Main,  the 
Tannns  Mts. ,  the  Bergstrasse,  and  the  Mts.  of  the  Palatinate. 

The  line  ascends  the  Lorsbacher  Thai,  and  crosses  the  Schwarz- 
bach  several  times.  16  M.  Lorsbach  (Tannns  Inn),  a  prettily-sitnat- 
ed  village.  —  ISVsM.  Eppstein  (605  f t. ;  H6tel  SeUer,  at  the  station ; 
Zur  OelmukUj  outside  the  village),  an  ancient  little  town  with 
scarcely  700  inhabitants.  On  a  precipitous  rock  above  the  place  rises 
the  picturesque  CaatU  of  the  same  name ,  mentioned  in  history  as 
early  as  1120,  the  ancestral  seat  of  a  celebrated  family,  five  members 
of  which  were  archbishops  and  electors  of  Mayence  between  1060 
and  1305.  It  is  now  the  property  of  Count  Stolberg.  The  Protestant 
church  contains  several  tombstones  of  the  old  family,  which  became 
extinct  in  1535.  A  good  *yiew  of  the  castle  is  obtained  from  the 
hill  opposite  to  it,  to  the  S.,  reached  by  the  ^Kriegerweg'. 

The  *Bo«Mrt  (1700  ft.),  whicli  is  eaaily  aacended  from  Eppgtein  in 
1  hr.  by  a  path  turning  to  the  left  just  beyond  the  'Oelmuhle'  (but  from 
Fischbach  very  steep),  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valleys  of  the  Rhine 
and  Main.  Near  the  top,  behind  a  group  of  trees,  is  a  chalet  of  the  Tau- 
nus  Club,  a  key  for  which  may  be  obtained  at  Eppstein  and  other  villages 
in  the  neighbourhood.  From  the  Rossert  to  Eonigstein  i'/i  hr.  —  The 
Staufen  (1489  ft.),  >/4  hr.  to  the  E.,  is  crowned  by  a  tower  commanding 
an  extensive  view. 

Immediately  below  Eppstein  the  Eonigstein  road  diverges  to  the 
N.E.  from  the  Lorsbach  valley,  ascending  the  Fischhachthal  to  (1^4  M.) 
Fischbach.  It  then  traverses  a  lofty  plateau  to  (2V4  H.)  Schneidhain,  and 
ascends  thence  to  (IV2  M.)  Kifnigstein  (p.  227). 

Beyond  Eppstein  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel.  —  From 
(23  M.)  Niedemhatisen  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Auringen-Meden" 
bach,  Igstadty  Erbenheim,  and  Wiesbaden  (y,  135).  —  28  M.  Idstein 
(Lamm,  well  spoken  of;  Merz),  a  town  of  2358  inhab.,  with  many 
old  houses,  was  once  the  residence  of  a  branch  of  the  Nassau  family ; 
the  chateau  dates  firom  the  16th  cent.,  the  church,  richly  adorned 
with  marble,  from  1667.  —  31  M.  Worsdorf;  34  M.  Camberg,  — 
36^2  M.  Kiedenelters  rCcMpari;,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Electorate 
of  Treves. 

l^iederselters  has  been  celebrated  since  the  16th  cent,  for  its  mineral 
waters,  in  which  carbonate  of  soda  and  salt  are  agreeably  blended ,  and 
widely  known  under  the  erroneous  name  of  ^Seltzer  Water\  The  build- 
ings of  the  spring  are  near  the  station.  From  SVs  to  4  million  bottles 
are  annually  exported. 

39  M.  Oberbrechen ,  with  large  marble  quarries ;  40  M.  Nieder- 
brechen,    46Y2  ^<  Limborg,  on  the  Lahn,  see  p.  206. 

80.  From  Frankfort  or  Mayence  to  Heidelberg  and 
Mannheim. 

From  Frankfort  to  Darmstadt  (17  M.)  railway  in  i/s'l  hr.  (fares  1  m.  90, 
1  m.  25,  86  pf.i  express  fares  2  m.  30,  1  m.  65,  1  m.  10  pf.).  From 
Mayence  to  Darmstadt  (21  M.)  railway  in  *h-i  hr.  (fares  3  m.,  2  m., 
1  m.  30  pf.  5  express  fares  8  m.  40,  or  2  m.  40  pf.).  From  Darmstadt  to 
Heidelberg   or  Mannheim^    38  M.,    in  iV4-2  hrs.   (fares  4  m.  25,   2  m.  80, 


280    Route  30,  DARMSTADT. 

1  m.  85  pf. ;  expreM  fafea  5  m.  10,  3  m.  10,  2  m.  45  pf.).    Seats  on  the  le/t 
(E.)  side  of  the  train  should  be  selected  for  the  view. 

From  Frani/ort  and  from  Maytnce  to  Mannheim  by  the  ^Riedbahn' ^  see 
p.  222. 

F&OH  F&A.NKFO&T  TO  Dabmstadt.  Beyond  the  imposing  sand- 
stone bridge  oyer  the  Main  a  branch  line  diverges  to  the  left  to 
Offenbach  and  farther  on  the  ^Hessische  Lndwigsbahn'  to  the  right 
to  Mayence  and  Mannheim  (p.  222).  On  the  hills  to  the  left  is 
seen  the  Saehsenhduser  WarU.  From  {2  M.)  Louisa  a  branch  line 
runs  vik  Sachsenhansen  (p.  215)  to  (5  M.)  Offenbach.  —  The  fol- 
lowing stations  are  for  the  most  part  some  distance  from  the  unim- 
portant Tillages  after  which  they  are  named.  The  railway  from 
Mayence  to  Darmstadt  passes  beneath  onr  line  shortly  before  we 
reach  (17  M.)  Darmstadt. 

From  Maybncb  to  Dabmstadt.  Starting  from  the  central 
station,  the  train  runs  under  the  citadel  to  the  Neuthor  station, 
and  crosses  the  Ludwigshafen  railway  (p.  255),  and  the  Rhine. 
5  M.  Bischofsheim  is  the  junction  for  the  Frankfort  Railway  (p.  222). 
10  M.  Nauheim.  From  (12*/2  M.)  Grossgerau,  the  junction  of 
the  Riedbahn  (p.  222),  a  branch  line  runs  to  Domberg.  —  131/2  M. 
Kleingerau;  16 Y2  M.  Weiterstadt.  —  21.  M.  Darmstadt,  where 
carriages  are  usually  changed. 


Darmstadt  (see  Plan,  p.  236).  —  Hotels.  Dabmstadtkb  Hof  (Pi. b ; 
B,  3),  Traube  (PL  a;  C,  3),  at  both  E.  &  A.  3  m.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf. ;  'Railway 
Hotel,  at  the  Hessian  Station,  IL  2,  D.  2  m.-,  Hotel  K6hleb  (PL  c;  A,  3), 
near  the  station,  with  restaurant,  unpretending  j  Pbimz  Carl  (PL  d  -,  D,  3), 
unpretending. 

Sestaurants.  '^Saalbau  (PL  B,4),  concerts  almost  daily;  Schmitt,  near  the 
station-,  Behmitz^  Louisen-Str.  14;  all  with  gardens.  —  Caf^:  Eiehherg ^RYiQin- 
Str.  —  Beer:  Formhals^  Grafen-Str.;  Mongeringhausen,  Hugel-Str. 

Darmstadt,  the  capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hessen,  with 
49,000  inhab.  (including  the  suburb  of  Bessungen) ,  a  town  with 
handsome  broad  streets,  spacious  squares,  and  tasteful  pleasure- 
grounds,  was,  though  the  capital  of  the  Counts  of  Katzenellen- 
bogen  and  afterwards  of  the  Landgraves  of  Hessen  -  Darmstadt, 
a  place  of  no  importance  down  to  the  close  of  the  18th  century. 
The  Grand  Duke  Ludwig  I.  (d.  1830)  erected  the  new  part  of  the 
town,  and  to  him  Darmstadt  is  indebted  for  its  prosperity.  A  Sta- 
tue (PI.  17;  C,  3),  by  Schwanthaler,  erected  to  him  by  his  'grateful 
people'  in  1844,  is  borne  by  a  column,  140  ft.  in  height,  the  sum- 
mit of  which  affords  a  fine  view. 

»The  Residbnzschloss  (PI.  29 ;  0,  2,  3)  was  begun  by  the  Land- 
grave George  I.  at  the  end  of  the  16th  cent. ;  the  portals,  belonging 
to  that  period,  but  finished  after  the  Landgrave's  death,  are  a  good 
specimen  of  the  German  Renaissance.  The  present  building  dates 
chiefly  from  the  beginning  of  last  century,  but  did  not  quite  attain 
its  present  dimensions  till  1833.  The  tower  contains  a  chime  of 
bells.  The  valuable  Library  consists  of  500,000  vols.,  4000  MSS., 
and    numerous    typographical    curiosities   (open  9-12  a.  m.    and 


DARMSTADT.  30.  Route.     231 

2-4  p.  m. ;  closed  on  Sun.,  and  on  Sat.  afternoon).  The  other  *Col^ 
lections  (pictures,  antiquities,  natural  history,  costumes,  and  coins) 
are  open  free  on  Tues.,  Wed.,  Thurs.  and  Frid.  11-1,  and  on  Sun. 
10-1 ;  also  at  other  times  for  a  fee.  The  entrance  is  in  the  arch- 
way in  the  Markt-Platz,  opposite  the  Rathhaus.  A  flight  of  58  steps 
ascends  to  the  first  floor,  where  the  library  is  to  the  left  and  the 
other  collections  straight  in  front  (p.  232).  Another  flight  of  steps 
leads  hence  to  the  — 

*PiciTUBB  Gallbby,  wMch  occupies  the  upper  floor  of  the 
palace.    Catalogue  1  m.  50  pf. 

The  collection  has  been  almost  entirely  formed  during  the  present 
century,  the  nucleus  having  been  the  collection  of  a  Hr.  ▼.  Htibsch.  The 
chief  boast  of  the  gallery  is  the  large  Rubens  (Nymphs  and  Satyrs  with 
fruit  and  game)  from  the  old  Diisseldorf  gallery,  presented  by  King  Max 
Joseph  of  Bavaria.  Van  Dpck''*  portrait  of  a  lady  with  a  fan,  dating  from 
1635,  and  Bembrandd  Scourging  of  Christ,  painted  in  1668,  the  year 
before  his  death ,  are  also  very  valuable  works.  The  portrait  of  a  wo- 
man, No.  348,  is  an  early  work  of  Rembrandt,  whose  pupils  iEeckhout^ 
FUnck,  etc.)  and  contemporaries  iVan  der  ffelttj  Fitter  de  Hooch,  and 
others)  are  also  well  represented.  To  an  earlier  period  of  art  belong  a 
Madonna  by  Lueai  van  Leyden,  a  portrait  of  Cardinal  Albrecht  of  Mainz 
by  Lucoi  Cranach,  a  landscape  by  P.  Brueghel,  and  several  works  of  the 
Early  Cologne  School  (Presentation  in  the  Temple,  etc.).  The  Italian 
works  are  chiefly  of  the  ^Academic  School'  of  tiie  i7th  century. 

Room  I. :  Modern  pictures,  chiefly  of  the  18th  cent.,  by  Schmidt,  Seekatz 
(d.  1768),  Fiedler,  SehUtz,  Kobell,  Morgenstern,  Ac,  the  earlier  of  which 
should  be  inspected  in  order  to  contrast  them  with  the  most  modem  school. 
To  the  left  on  entering  (1st  transverse  partition):  126.  Schilbach.  Gastel  Oan- 
dolfo.  Second  partition:  136.  Schirmer,  Heidelberg  Castle;  148,  149,  160, 
151.  Achenbaeh,  Four  small  Dutch  landscapes.  Principal  wall :  157.  ff.  Hof- 
mann.  Betrayal  of  the  Saviour  \  129.  Steinbriick,  Genovefa ;  Radl,  121.  Gron- 
berg,  and  122.  Falkenstein,  both  in  the  Taunus;  59.  Seekatz,  Children  in 
the  poultry-yard;  106.  Sch&nberger,  Sunset;  157b.  Carl  Otto,  Court  ladies 
paying  their  respects  to  Marie  Antoinette. 

Boom  II. :  Partition :  137.  Leasing,  Evening-scene  on  the  Moselle ;  be- 
hind, E,  Henseler,  Social  democrats.  Principal  wall:  H.  Qude,  Marine 
piece ;  134.  Morgenstem,  Scene  on  the  Isar ;  155.  Noack,  Beligious  disputa- 
tion between  Luther  and  Zwingli  at  Marburg ;  Lucas,  132.  Italian  harvest- 
scene,  130.  The  Melibocus  seen  from  the  Odenwald ;  156.  Schweich,  Autumn 
morning;  164.  Becker,  Glacier-lake  in  Norway. 

Boom  III.  Old  German  School.  The  pictures  in  this  room  form  one 
of  the  best  collections  of  the  works  of  this  school.  In  the  doorway :  224. 
Holbein  the  Elder,  Body  of  Christ  at  the  foot  of  the  cross.  Partition :  Lucas 
Cranach,  244.  Portrait  of  Cardinal  Albert  of  Brandenburg  in  the  character 
of  St.  Jerome,  249.  Virgin  and  Child.  226.  Holbein  the  Younger  (7),  Bust 
of  a  youth,  1515;  188.  Claeissens,  Mary  and  Child.  Exit  wall:  189.  School 
of  JfemHng,  perhaps  Gerard  Horebout  (1538),  Enthroned  Mary  and  Child; 
186.  Lower  Rhenish  School,  Dying  Mary;  168.  Stephan  Lochner  (the  master 
of  the  Dombild  at  Cologne),  Presentation  in  the  Temple;  (N.)  216.  Reliquary 
from  the  church  of  Wolfskehlen,  date  1500;  (E.)  217.  M.  Schongauer  CO, 
Scourging  of  Christ 

Boom  IV.  Netherlands  Masters.  Partition:  "328.  Van  Dyck  (d.  1641), 
Portrait  of  the  painter  Erasmus  (^uellyn ;  399.  Sal.  Ruisdael,  Dutch  beach ; 
"361.  Adr.  van  Ostade,  Peasants  dancing,  an  early  work,  dated  1635; 
•366-868.  Thoe.  de  Keyser,  Portraits;  335.  Wynants,  Landscape,  1676;  *271. 
P.  Brueghel  the  Elder,  Landscape  with  peasants  dancing,  16oo.  Second  par- 
tition :  345.  Adr.  Brouwer,  Two  peasants  singing ;  350a.  Sandvooi't,  Portrait 
of  a  girl ;  395.  P.  Potter  (?),  Stable.  At  the  last  window :  347a.  Rembrandt, 
Babbi.    —   Principal  wall:  327.    Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  354.  Ferd. 


232    BouUaO.  DARMSTADT.  From  Frankfort 

Boly  Holy  Family  \  *296.  JUibenSy  Satyrs  and  Kymphs  with  game  and  fruit ; 
the  nymph  with  the  red  rohe  is  th»  master's  first  wife,  the  one  with  the 
hare  his  second  (copy  in  Dresden).  ^386,  *387.  Oert>r.  van  den  Seckhout, 
Portraits. 

Rook  V.  Beside  the  window:  400.  Jae.  von  BMtsdael  (?),  Silvan  scene; 
340.  Cuyp^  Cow-herd}  286.  Mich.  J.  Mierevelt,  Portrait ^  "diS.  Rembrandt, 
Portrait  of  his  wife  Saskia;  376,  377.  OontaUi  Coquet  y  Portraits  i  851. 
Terburg,  Portrait. 

Room  VI.  Front  of  partition :  870.  Van  der  HeUi^  Bust  of  an  old  man  ; 
315.  Honthorsty  Portrait  of  a  lady.  Back  of  partition :  378.  Govaert  Flinck, 
Woman  cleansing  her  boy's  head  i  405.  P.  de  Hooch^  Interior.  Exit  wall : 
*347.  RenOtrandt,  Christ  about  to  be  scourged  (1668)  ^  *368.  Van  der  Belet, 
Portrait  of  a  ladv :  860.  A.  van  Oelder  (pupil  of  Rembrandt).  Presentation 
in  the  Temple ;  855.  Ferd.  Sol,  Portrait.  —  Entrance  wall :  424.  Sehalekeny 
William  III.  of  England  by  torch-light*,  349.  Eeckhout,  The  disciples  at 
Emmaus^  889.  A.  van  Everdingen,  Landscape. 

Room  VII.  French  works  of  inferior  value :  483.  /.  Jouvenety^  Madonna 
and  Child;  475.  Le  Sueur ^  Christ  raising  the  widow's  son  at  ^ain^  489, 
490.  Van  Loo^  Portrait  of  Louis  XV.  and  his  Queen  Maria  Lesczinska; 
511.  aonntag^  View  of  Darmstadt  in  1746  (taken  from  the  window  op- 
posite); 488.  Rigaudy  Portrait  of  Cardinal  Fleury;  492.  F.  Bouchert  Sleeping 
nymphs  and  satyrs. 

Room  VIII.  Spanish  and  Italian  Masters.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance : 
639.  Velazquez  Oh  Woman  with  a  dead  child  kneeling  before  a  bishop. 
To  the  right:  547.  Carlo  Galiariy  Venus  and  Adonis;  527.  Ascribed  to  Gor- 
reggioy  Young  shepherd  freally  a  later  work  of  no  great  value).  —  67. 
Raphael  Menge,  St.  Sebastian ;  *638.  Velazquez,  Portrait  of  a  girl.  —  586. 
Oignaniy  Madonna ;  520.  Titian,  Sleeping  Venus  (according  to  Mr.  Crowe  an 
original,  ruined  by  restoration). 

Room  IX.  To  the  left :  541.  Ann.  Carraeei,  Full  length  portrait  of  a 
man.  First  partition :  641.  Mtirillo,  Carthusian  monk ;  514.  Pervgino,  St. 
George;  554.  Schidone,  John  the  Baptist  in  the  desert.  Second  partition: 
*529.  Parie  Bordone,  Portrait  of  a  general,  in  admirable  preservation ;  571. 
Pieiro  da  Cortona,  Angel  appearing  to  Hagar  and  Ishmael ;  "519.  Tintoretto 
(wrongly  attributed  to  Titian),  Portrait  of  a  nobleman,  dated  1562.  At  the 
last  window:  578.  Sasto/errato,  Pietk;  above,  Italian  School,  Crucifixion. 
On  the  wall  beyond:  533.  Tintoretto,  Portrait;  523.  The  Baptist  in  the  wil- 
derness, a  weak  copy  of  Raphael. 

The  two  adjoining  rooms  contain  the  valuable  collection  of  objects 
of  Natu&al  Histobt.  Halfway  up  the  staircase  to  the  next  floor  are 
two  rooms  containing  Plcuter  Casts. 

The  Other  Collections  are  on  the  second  fiioor. 

Room  I.  Roman  Antiquities:  a  ^'Mosaic  Pavement,  30  ft.  in  length, 
20  ft  in  breadth ,  excavated  near  Vilbel  in  1849 ;  model  of  an  apparatus 
for  evaporating  salt,  excavated  at  Nauheim  in  1854,  with  a  clay  vessel  which 
formed  part  of  it ;  bronze  tools  and  a  helmet  from  a  tomb  near  Nauheim ; 
smaller  Germanic  and  Roman  antiquities.  —  Room  II.  Cork  Models  of 
Roman  edifices,  ancient  ornaments  in  gold  and  silver,  goblets,  enamels 
of  the  early  Lower  Rhine  School  and  of  Limoges,  beautiful  ivory  carving, 
stained  glass,  coins.  —  Room  III,  IV.  Collection  of  the  weapons,  flags, 
and  equipments  of  the  Hessian  regiments  from  the  earliest  times  to  Uie 
present  day.  —  Room  V.  *Armour  and  weapons,  curious  helmets,  shields, 
and  targes.  —  Room  VI.  Model  of  the  palace,  costumes  and  utensils  of 
foreign  nations,  &c.  —  Room  VII.  Drawings  and  Engravings,  ancient  and 
modern;  among  the  former  are  the  sketches  of  Rottmann  for  the  Italian 
landscapes  in  the  arcades  at  Munich.  Some  coins  are  exhibited  here  also ; 
and  engraved  stones,  with  impressions  taken  from  them. 

Other  rooms  contain  the  valuable  Collection  of  Minerals,  Conehylia, 
and  ''Fossils,  skeletons  of  antediluvian  and  other  animals,  skulls  etc. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  Palace  stretches  the  Pauadr  Gbound  (PI. 
C,  2),  on  the  N.  side  of  which  is  the  Artillery- Arsenal  (PI.  32).  In 


to  Heidelberg.  DARMSTADT.  30.  Route.    233 

front  of  the  latter  stands  the  War  Honament  (PI.  20),  commemora- 
tive of  the  campaign  of  1870-71,  east  in  1879  from  the  model  of 
Herzig.  Between  the  Arsenal  and  the  Thbatbb  (PL  31 ;  D,  2),  re- 
bnllt  since  its  destruction  by  fire  in  1871  are  Statues  (PI.  18, 19), 
by  Scholl,  of  the  Landgrave  PUUp  the  Oenerous  (d.  1567),  and  his 
son  George  I.  (d.  1596),  founder  of  the  grand-ducal  family. 

In  the  Hbbbengabtbn  (PI.  0,  1,  2),  which  is  well  laid  out, 
with  pleasant  walks,  to  the  right,  is  the  tomb  of  the  Landgravine 
Henrietta  Carolina  (d.  1774;  PI.  8),  mother  of  the  queen  of  Fred- 
erick William  II.  of  Prussia ;  the  unpretending  urn  erected  by  Fred- 
erick the  Great  bears  the  inscription :  ^Femina  sexuj  ingenio  vir\ 

The  Renaissance  Rathhaus  (PI.  28),  in  the  Makkt  (PI.  C,  3),  was 
built  by  George  I.  The  Stadtkircke  (PL45 ;  0,  D,  3),  in  the  Kirch- 
Strasse,  possesses  a  Gothic  choir  and  some  Renaissance  monuments. 

The  modem  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  12 ;  usual  entrance 
at  the  S.E.  angle),  in  the  Wilhelminen-Platz^  is  built  in  the  style  of 
the  Pantheon  at  Rome  and  is  lighted  from  the  dome  which  is  sup- 
ported by  28  columns.  It  contains  the  well-executed  marble  sarco- 
phagus of  the  Grand  Duchess  Mathilde  of  Hessen  (d.  1862),  with  a 
recumbent  figure  of  the  princess  by  Widnmann.  On  the  W.  side 
of  the  Platz  is  the  new  Palace  of  the  Grand  Duke  (PL  24),  in  the 
Italian  Renaissance  style.  The  Palace  of  Prince  Alexander  (PL  21 ; 
B,3)  contains  a  fine  collection  of  coins. 

The  Palace  op  the  late  Peince  Chablbs  (PL  22;  0,  5), 
in  the  Wilhelminen-Strasse,  contains  the  celebrated  ♦•Madonna 
with  the  family  of  Burgomaster  Meyer  of  Bile,  by  Holbein  the 
Youngety  executed  in  1526,  and  ascertained  since  the  Holbein  Ex- 
hibition at  Dresden  in  1871  to  be  the  original  work  of  the  master, 
though  much  injured  by  retouching.  (Visitors  apply  for  admission 
in  the  passage,  to  which  a  short  flight  of  steps  ascends ;  fee  1  m.) 

There  is  an  excellent  collection  of  early  German,  Dutch,  and 
other  paintings  at  No.  8  Zimmer-Str.,  the  property  of  Dr.  Schdfer. 

The  Technical  School  (PL  26;  D,  3,  4),  in  the  Capell-Str.,  is 
admirably  equipped  with  teaching  apparatus,  but  is  architecturally 
uninteresting:  Opposite  to  it  rises  the  Neue  Recdschule,  a  more  im- 
posing edifice,  beyond  which  stands  the  ^Pddagog\  built  in  1627 
for  the  gymnasium  founded  in  that  year.  The  modern  -  Gothic 
Stadt-Capelle  (PL  14)  in  the  adjoining  grounds  is  an  elegant  struc- 
ture. . —  Opposite  the  station  (Hess.  Ludwigs-Bahnhof)  are  the 
Rank  fiir  Handel  und  Industrie  and  the  Bank  fur  Sud-Deutschland, 
both  built  in  1875  (PL  2,  3 ;  A,  2).  In  front  of  the  stations  is  a 
monument  to  I/icftififj  the  chemist  (b.  at  Darmstadt  in  1803,  d.  1873). 
In  the  Rhein-Strasse  is  the  large  new  Post  Office. 

At  Rosenhohe  (p.  240),  8/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  Darmstadt,  is  the 
Grand-ducal  Mausoleum,  containing  the  remains  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Lewis  III  (d.  1877)  and  the  Princess  Alice  of  England  (d. 
1878),  wife  of  the  Grand  Duke  Lewis  IV.  The  ♦Tomb  of  the  Prin- 


234   Bouie30.  BERGSTRASSE.  From  Frankfort 

C09S  Elizabeth,  who  died  at  the  age  of  5^2  years,  with  a  recmnbent 
figure  In  marble,  is  by  Bauch  (1831). 

The  extensive  woods  near  Darmstadt  afford  numerous  pictur- 
esque walks,  the  favourite  of  which  are  to  the  KarUhof  (Y2Af-; 
c«mp.  PI.  D,2),  to  the  Fasanerie  {IV2  M. ;  comp.  PI.  D,2),  to  the 
shooting-lodge  of  JTranicftstom,  to  Einsiedel  (^M.,')j  and  to  the  Lud^ 
wigshohe  (2  M.),  on  which  is  the  Ludwigsthurm  fview). 

Fbom  Daemstadt  to  Wokms,  28  m.,  railway  in  iVi-l'/ahr.  (fjures  3  m.  90, 
2  m.  60,  or  1  m.  70  pf.).  6  M.  Oriesheim ,  with  an  extensive  artillery- 
range  and  camp.  9  M.  WolfskeTUen;  10  M.  Ooddelau-Er/elden,  the  junction 
of  the  Frankfort  and  Mannheim  line  (p.  222),  which  coincides  with  the 
Worms  line  as  far  as  (21  M.)  BiblU.  2oi/8  M.  ffo/fieim,  the  junction  of  the 
Bensheim  and  Worms  line  (p.  236).  26  M.  Rosengarten^  where  passengers 
cross  the  river  by  a  steam-ferry.  26V2  M.  Womu-Ba/en.  The  train  now 
makes  a  circuit  round  the  N.  side  of  the  town.    28  M.   WomUf  p.  257. 

Fbom  Dasmstadt  to  Mannhbim  by  the  'Riedbahn',  38Va  M.;  fares 
4  m.  65,  3  m^  2  m.  To  Ooddelau-Er/eldetiy  see  above;  thence  to  Mann- 
heim, eee  p.  222. 

From  Dwmatadt  to  Merbaeh,  see  B.  31b. 

171/2  M.  Besaungen  (p.  230).  —  2OV2  M.  Eberstadt-Pfungstadt  ,• 
the  latter,  a  busy  little  manufacturing  town,  lies  IY4  M.  to  the  W., 
the  former  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  Near  this  point  begins 
the  BergstraABe,  an  old  road  originally  constructed  by  the  Romans, 
skirting  the  fruit  and  vine- clad  W.  slopes  of  the  Odenwald  (to 
which  the  name  'Bergstrasse'  is  sometimes  applied  in  a  wider 
sense),  and  leading  to  Heidelberg.  —  On  the  hills  to  the  left  rises 
the  handsome  ruined  castle  of  Frankenstein  (1110  ft.),  commanding 
a  splendid  *View  (Inn). 

25  M.  Bickenbdch  is  the  station  for  (1^/4  M.  distant ;  post-omni- 
bus three  times  daily,  40  pf . ;  during  summer  carriages  await  every 
train)  Jugenheim  (*Loo8  zur  Postj  *Qoldene  Krone  ^  Alexander- 
Bad,  'pension'  at  both  41/2111. ;  Bellevue,  well  spoken  of),  a  favourite 
summer-resort,  with  pleasant  villas.  Tour  in  the  Odenwald,  see 
p.  237.  Ascent  of  the  Melibocus,  see  below.  —  At  Seeheim 
(*Hufnagel,  'pens.' 4m.;  carriages  at  the  station),  1  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Jugenheim,  there  is  a  grand-ducal  chUeau,  the  garden  of 
which  is  open  to  the  public.  Above  Seeheim  rises  the  ruined  castle 
of  Tannenbergj  destroyed  in  1399;  it  is  scarcely  visible  from 
below.  —  To  the  left  of  the  railway,  farther  on,  rises  the  pinna- 
cled tower  of  the  Alsbacher  Schloas,  which  may  be  reached  in  1/2  ^^« 
from  Zwingenberg. 

27  M.  Zwingenberg  (^Lowe,  with  garden,  R.  11/2^.,  D.  1  m. 
70  pf.,  'pension'  4m.),  an  old  town,  with  1600  inhabitants,  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  wooded  Melibocus  or  Malchen  (1679  ft.),  the  high- 
est point  of  the  Bergstrasse  and  entirely  of  granite.  On  the  summit 
is  a  tower  (80  ft.  high),  erected  in  1777  by  Louis  IX,,  Landgrave 
of  Hessen  (key  and  refreshments  from  the  forester;  fee  26  pf.,  for  a 
party  1  m.). 

The  Ascent  of  the  Melibocus  takes  1  hr.  from  Zwingenberg,  and 
I'/a  hr.  from  Jugenheim.     Guide   (unnecessary)    1  m. ;    carriage  to  the  top 


to  Heidelberg,  BENSHEIM.  30.  Route.    235 

10-12  m.  —  Fbom  JuasNHEiM  vi&  the  Helibocus  and  the  Auerbacher 
Schlosfl  to  Anerbach  3  hours.  Besides  the  old  and  the  new  path  ascending 
the  mountain,  there  is  a  third,  slightly  longer,  via  the  ruined  castle  of 
Jo$ta.  The  three  paths  unite  halfway  up  the  hill  (Vi  hr.  from  Jugenheim). 
The  path  leading  down-hill  to  the  right  is  to  be  avoided. 

Frok  ZwiKGBiTBBBO,  the  road  leads  £.  from  the  ^JAhot'  and  ascends 
the  hill;  after  8  min.  the  path  follows  the  water-conduit  to  the  right, 
leads  through  a  small  fir-wood  over  the  Ltizieberg^  and  in  25  min.  more 
regains  the  carriage-road,  which  is  furnished  with  direction-posts. 

From  the  Helibocus  a  road,  furnished  with  way-posts  at  all  doubt- 
ful places,  leads  direct  in  */i  hr.  to  the  Auerbacher  Schloss.  Descent  from 
the  Schloss  to  the  village  of  Auerbach  in  V«-*/4  hour.  ■—  From  the  Auer- 
bacher Schloss  direct  to  the  Fiirstenlager,  see  below. 

2972^-  Auerbach  (^Krone,  established  originally  in  the  17th 
cent.,  'pens'  4-5 m.;  also  lodgings,  R.  from  7  m,  per  week;  restau- 
rants, Mohr  and  Hess,  with  gardens;  carriage-tariff  at  the  station), 
a  picturesque  village  of  1700  inhab. ,  mentioned  as  early  as  795,  is 
a  favourite  summer-resort,  and  affords  good  headquarters  for  ex- 
cursions in  the  W.  part  of  the  Odenwald  (p.  238).  Good  wine  is  pro- 
duced in  the  neighbourhood,  the  best  quality  being  called  Rottwein. 

The  ^Auerbacher  Schloss  (8/4  hr.  from  the  Melibocus,  carriage 
road;  same  distance  N.  of  Auerbach,  path  not  to  be  mistaken), 
situated  on  an  eminence  (1053  ft. ;  Inn,  small),  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  Charlemagne.  After  1257  it  appears  as  a  fortress  of  the 
Counts  of  Katzenellenbogen,  held  at  first  as  a  fief  of  the  monastery 
of  Lorsch  (see  p.  236),  and  then  of  the  Electorate  of  Mayence.  The 
present  buUding  dates  from  the  15th  cent. ;  in  1674  it  was  blown 
up  by  Turenne.  ♦View  from  the  towers  less  extensive  but  more 
picturesque  than  that  ttom  the  Melibocus. 

Envibons.  One  of  the  prettiest  points  near  Auerbach  is  the  FOraten- 
lager,  a  small  chateau  built  during  last  century  by  the  Landgraves  of 
Hessen ,  and  enlarged  by  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria  (p.  230),  with  a  chalybeate 
spring  and  charming  grounds.  Coffee  and  milk  may  be  had  at  the  chftteau. 
It  may  be  reached  by  the  road  in  20  min.  from  the  ^Erone'  inn  (or, 
pleasanter,  by  turning  to  the  right  by  the  Rathhaus  and  ascending  past 
the  church).  —  The  walk  from  the  Auerbacher  Schloss  to  the  Fiirstenlager 
is  also  pleasant:  we  follow  the  broad  road  to  the  E.  as  far  as  the  mineral 
spring  in  the  HochitdUtr  Thai  (refreshments  at  the  forester's),  pass  the 
mill,  and  turn  to  the  W.  to  the  Neun-AuBBichttn  (*nine  views'),  a  clearing 
in  the  wood,  where  nine  different  picturesque  views  are  obtained  through 
the  nine  forest-paths  which  converge  here.  Farther  on  we  reach  the 
Fiirstenlager  (IV4  hr.  in  all).  —  About  Vs  hr.  to  the  E.  of  the  Fiirstenlager 
lies  Schdnberg  (see  below). 

30  M.  Bensheim  (Traube,  *Deutsches  Haus,  in  the  town ;  *Reu' 
ter's  Hotel ,  at  the  station ,  small) ,  a  busy  town  in  a  picturesque 
situation  ,  with  6000  inhab. ,  dates  as  far  back  as  the  8th  century, 
and  till  1802  belonged  to  Mayence.  The  two  churches,  Roman  Ca- 
tholic and  Protestant,  are  both  modem.  The  Rinnenthor,  near  the 
station,  is  an  interesting  relic  of  the  old  fortifications. 

From  Bensheim  a  diligence  plies  twice  daily  in  1  hr.  to  Sch6nberg 
(Traube;  a<mne;  ViUa  Schlapp,  with  restaurant,  ^pens."  4  m.),  which  also 
attracts  visitors  in  summer,  with  a  chateau  of  Count  Erbach-Schonberg. 
The  Schlossgarten  and  the  village-church  command  pretty  views.  —  From 
Schiinberg  the  diligence  goes  on  to  (iVa  M.)  Reichenbach  and  Linden/els 
(11  M.  from  Bensheim;  p.  238). 


236    BouUSO.  WEINHEM. 

FsoM  BsNSHtiM  TO  BosBMOABTtiT  (WoRMs),  13 M.,  Mulway  in  aboM4  ht, 
3H.  Lorsok  (4000  inbab. ;  H6ta  ffttrtmarm)^  on  tbe  Wesehnitty  with  rtiiiiA'of  ft 
monastery  ( Laureshamenst  Monaiterium)  ^  founded  in  763  on  an  islM^  in 
the  WeBchnitz  and  afterwards  removed  to  its  present  site.  In  788  OMtrle- 
magne  assigned  it  as  a  place  of  banishment  to  Tassilo,  Duke  of  Bayi^iia, 
who  had  been  condemned  to  death  as  a  traitor.  On  leaving  the  station 
we  first  turn  to  the  left,  then  to  the  right,  and  follow  the  main  street  to 
the  (8  mln.)  market-place.  Kear  the  latter,  and  not  far  from  the  E.  end 
of  the  village  is  the  ''MiehaelskapelW  (so  called  only  since  the  end  of  the 
17th  cent.),  which  is  now  recognised  as  the  chapel  erected  by  Lewis  III. 
between  876  and  882  as  a  mausoleum  for  his  father,  Lewis  the  German. 
The  chapel,  with  curiously-formed  imposts  and  inlaia  walls,  is  one  of  tbe 
most  elegant  and  best-preserved  specimens  of  the  architecture  of  the 
period.  Lewis  JII.  himself  and  Gunigunde,  wife  of  £mp.  Conrad  I.,  are 
also  interred  here.  The  stone  coffins  seem  to  belong  to  the  Carlovingian 
era.  The  Kibelungen-Lied  represents  the  vaults  at  Lorsch  as  the  burial- 
place  of  Siegfried  and  Queen  Ute  (mother  of  Chriemhilde).  Beyond  the 
chapel  are  some  portions  of  the  nave  of  the  convent-church,  which  was 
consecrated  in  1130. 

8  M.    BUrstadt.    lOVs  M.  Bo/heim.    13  M.  Rosengarten^  see  p.  234. 

Near(33M.)Heppeiiheim(*Ha»«r^ond,  R.lm.50,  B.  70pf.), 
to  tbe  left  of  the  road,  rises  the  Landberg ,  a  hill  crowned  with 
three  trees,  where  the  provincial  tribunals  were  held  in  the  middle 
ages.  The  church  was  founded  by  Charlemagne,  according  to  an 
old  inscription.    The  present  edifice  is  of  Gothic  and  later  times. 

The  Btarkenburg  (932  ft.)  is  reached  by  a  good  path  from  Heppen- 
heim  in  V2  hour.  It  was  erected  in  1064  by  an  abbot  of  Lorsch,  captured 
by  the  Swedes  and  Spaniards  in  the  Thirty  Tears"  War,  besieged  in  vain 
by  Turenne  in  1674,  and  was  only  recently  quite  abandoned.  It  gives 
its  name  to  a  province  of  Hessen.    Fine  view  n-om  the  lofty  square  tower. 

The  train  now  enters  the  dominions  of  Baden.  Beyond  (37  M.) 
Hemsbach  it  crosses  the  small  river  WeachnUZj  and  reaches  — 

391/2  M.  Weinheim  (^Pfalzer  Hof,  with  garden,  R.  2  m.,  B. 
70  pf.,  ^pension'  5  m.;  Adler,  in  the  Markt,  cheap;  Karlsherg)^ 
a  small  town  of  7600  inhab. ,  lying  at  the  union  of  the  pleasant 
valleys  of  Oorxheim  and  Birkenau,  and  the  most  important  and  most 
beautifully  situated  town  on  the  Bergstrasse.  It  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Abbey  of  Lorsch,  and  is  of  ancient  origin,  though  owing  to 
its  destruction  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  and  again  in  the 
devastation  of  the  Palatinate  in  1689,  there  are  few  old  buildings 
of  any  importance.  A  few  towers  belonging  to  the  former  fortifi- 
cations, the  House  of  the  Teutonic  Order  (now  a  government-office), 
and  the  QoiMoRathhaua  are  the  only  relics  of  its  former  prosperity. 
The  Gothic  towers  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church  and  the  Berk- 
heini'sche  Schloss  are  modern.  Numerous  picturesque  walks  in  the 
neighbourhood.  —  Huhherger^  the  best  wine  of  the  Bergstrasse,  is 
produced  near  Weinheim. 

To  the  E.  rises  the  old  castle  of  Windeck  (685  ft.),  with  its 
high  conical  'Bergfried'  tower ,  the  property  of  the  monastery  of 
Lorsch  in  the  12th  cent. ,  afterwards  that  of  the  Palatinate ,  com- 
manding a  beautiful  view.  —  From  Weinheim  to  Fiirth,  IOY2  M, , 
diligence  twice  a  day,  see  p.  239, 

At  (43  M.)  Gross-Sachsen ,  a  village  said  to  have  been  fouiiiied 


1  N  ■§' 


"^  THE  ODENWALD.  237 

by  Charlemagne ,  the  line  leaves  the  Bergetraase.  To  the  left  we 
see  the  Strahleriburg  towering  above  Schriesheim.  —  46  M.  Laden- 
burg  (Bos€;  8chiff)y  the  Roman  iMpodunumy  the  walls,  towers,  and 
fine  old  GK>thlc  church  of  8U  Oallua  (14th  cent.)  of  which  give  it  an 
air  of  importance.  The  Neckar  is  crossed  here  by  a  bridge  of  red 
sandstone. 

48  m.  Friedrichafeld,  where  the  lines  to  Heidelberg  and  Mann- 
heim (each  about  15  min.  distant  by  train)  separate.  —  A  branch- 
line  leads  hence  to  (31/2  M.)  Schwttzingen  (p.  251). 

54V2M.  Heidelberg,  see  p.  242. — 54  M.  Hannhelm,  seep. 252. 

31.  The  Odenwald. 

The  Odenwald,  the  wooded  mountain-district  between  Darmstadt  and 
Heidelberg ,  is  about  40  M.  in  length  and  34-30  M.  in  breadth.  The 
highest  points  are  the  Kattenbuckel  (1959  ft.,  see  p.  251),  the  Ifeunkii'cher 
MOhe  (1869  ft.,  see  p.  338),  the  Dromm  (1834  ft,  see  p.  239),  the  MeliboeM 
(1679  ft.,  see  p.  234),  and  the  Felsberg  (1624  ft.,  see  below).  This  district 
is  picturesque  and  Interesting  at  places,  although ,  like  its  inns,  inferior 
to  the  Black  Forest. 

a.  Westem  Portion. 

Onb  Day:  From  Bickenbaeh  to  the  Feltberff  2  hrs. ,  thence  to  Linden- 
/els  31/4  hrs.  and  drive  in  2  hrs.  to  Bensheim  or  in  2Va  hrs.  to  Weinheim. 

Two  Days:  1st.  As  above  to  Linden/els;  2nd.  Gross  the  Dromm  to 
Waldmiehelbach  in  8V2  hrs. ,  thence  by  Ober-  and  Unter-Shihanmattenwag  to 
Hirschhom  3V«  hrs.  (or  by  SchSnau  to  Neekar$te%nach  5  hrs.),  and  by  the 
new  Neckar  railway  to  Heidelberg. 

Bickenbaeh  (p.  234)  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  ramble  in 
this  district.  Thence  to  the  E.  to  (l^M.)  Jngenheim  (p.  234),  in 
the  middle  of  which  a  road  to  the  right  ascends  through  well-kept 
grounds ,  passing  (1/4  hr.)  a  ruined  Mondstery  (a  few  paces  to  the 
right),  with  some  tombstones  of  1480  in  the  wall.  (Near  the  mon- 
astery is  the  *Centllnde*,  an  old  lime-tree  marking  the  place  of 
meeting  of  a  'Centgericht',  or  Court  of  a  Hundred;  in  front  of  It 
Is  a  conspicuous  gilded  Russian  cross.)  Beyond  the  monastery  the 
route  soon  reaches  the  (7  min.)  chateau  of  Heiligenherg,  the  resi- 
dence of  Prince  Alexander  of  Hessen  (fine  view  from  the  ter- 
race). We  next  ascend  to  the  right  through  the  grounds,  and, 
at  the  finger-post  indicating  the  way  (^Wilhelminenweg*)  to  the 
Felsberg,  turn  to  the  left  round  the  hill,  whence  a  pleasing 
glimpse  of  the  chateau  and  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  is  obtained. 
Following  the  direction  indicated  by  various  way-posts,  we  reach, 
In  11/2  ^^-  from  Jugenheim ,  the  Felsberg  (1624  ft.,  where  refresh- 
ments and  night-quarters  may  be  obtained  in  the  Foresters  House 
of  in  Hdberkom^s  Inn  (Opens'  at  the  latter,  4  m.).  The  view  to  the  E. 
embraces  a  great  part  of  the  Odenwald,  and  extends  to  the  Spessart 
and  Aschaffenburg. 

Fbov  thx  Mkliboous  to  thb  Felsbebo  (IV2  hr.).  The  path  (sign- 
posts) ascends  from  the  Balkhatuer  7Aal,  which  separates  the  two  hills, 
OB  the  ir.W.  side  of  the  Felsberg. 


238     Routed!.  REICHENBACH.  Odenwald. 

Fbom  Ausbbagh  (p.  285)  to  the  Fblsbebo  (2-272  hrs.).  We  may  either 
ascend  through  the  Hochstatter  Thai  (to  the  left  on  entering  the  village) 
past  Hochgtdtten^  or  by  the  path  over  the  FUrstenlager.  The  last  route  is 
somewhat  more  difficult  to  find ,  but  both  are  furnished  with  guide- 
posts.  In  returning  we  take  the  beautiful  road  called  the  ^Neun  Krumme'j 
leading  first  through  wood,  then  across  fields  to  Balkhausen,  and  to 
the  left  through  a  wood  which  it  afterwards  skirts,  and  finally  reaching 
(IVa  hr.)  the  Auerbacher  Schloss. 

Fbom  the  Fei.8bsbo  to  Obosb-Bisbbbad  (p.  240),  in  4Vs  hours.  The 
road  passes  Brandau  and  the  Neunkircher  ffdhe  (1869  ft.;  *View,  Inns, 
poor),  and  continues  through  wood  to  the  ridge  above  Nonrod  (IV4  hr.) 
which  commands  an  extensive  view.  In  25  min.  we  strike  the  path 
from  Frankisch-Grumbach  to  Gross-Bieberau,  and  taking  the  broad  forest 
track,  diverging  at  right  angles  to  the  left  at  the  stone  guide-post,  we 
reach  (1  hr.)  Oross-Bieberau  (p.  240). 

About  1/4  M.  from  the  forester's  house  lies  the  AltarsUin ,  a 
block  of  syenite,  nearly  cubic  in  form,  bearing  traces  of  an  attempt 
to  hew  it  Into  lengths  for  a  huge  architrave ;  lower  down,  in  a  small 
gully,  is  the  ^Ri68enaaule\  a  column  of  the  same  material,  30  ft.  in 
length,  and  3-41/2  ft.  thick,  with  a  notch  IY2  inch  deep  in  the 
middle.  There  is  no  doubt  that  an  old  Roman  quarry  once  existed 
here,  which  perhaps  also  furnished  the  columns  on  the  Schloss- 
brunnen  at  Heidelberg.  The  Felsenmeer  ('sea  of  rocks') ,  on  the 
side  of  a  hill  on  the  road  to  Relchenbach ,  near  the  Riesensaule, 
consists  of  rounded  blocks  of  syenite  scattered  in  huge  and  con- 
fused masses,  covering  an  area  of  500  paces  by  200. 

The  path  now  descends  rapidly  to  Beichenbaoli  (Traube^  Zur 
Riesensaule) ,  a  village  on  the  Lauierhach,  2^/2  M.  from  the  Fels- 
berg,  and  41/2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Bensheim  (p.  235). 

We  cross  the  brook  here,  and  follow  the  high-road  which 
leads  up  the  valley  to  Lindenfels,  but  quit  it  after  3/4  M.,  and 
ascend  a  path  to  the  right,  past  some  old  copper-mines,  to  the 
(10  min.)  Hohenstein,  a  group  of  quartzose  rocks  commanding  a  very 
pleasing  prospect.  After  5  min.  more,  we  ascend  to  the  left,  then 
(25  min.)  pass  some  houses  of  Unter-Reidelhach,  and,  near  Gadem^ 
heim,  return  to  the  above-mentioned  main  road  (Y4  hr.) ,  which  is 
not  again  to  be  quitted. 

About  1/2  M.  from  the  point  where  we  regain  the  high-road, 
we  pass  through  the  hamlet  of  Kolmbach  (good  wine  at  Schmidt's 
Inn),  and  about  2/4  M.  farther  reach  a  group  of  trees  with  a  bench, 
whence  a  remarkably  fine  view  is  enjoyed. 

The  road  now  leads  through  beautiful  beech- wood,  interspersed 
with  boulders  of  granite,  to  (2^/2  M.)  Lindenfels  (Hessisches  Haus; 
Harfe;  Odenwald)^  a  favourite  summer-resort  (1000  inhab.),  the 
finest  point  in  the  Odenwald,  picturesquely  situated  on  an  emin- 
ence. It  is  commanded  by  a  large  ruined  *Chateau ,  formerly  the 
property  of  the  Palatinate.   The  old  town-gates  are  still  extant. 

On  the  beautiful  wooded  mountain  to  the  E.  is  the  ^Ludwigs- 
hohe,  a  small  temple,  1  M.  from  Lindenfels,  commanding  a  fine  view, 
especially  picturesque  by  evening  light.  The  prospect  is  more  exten- 
sive from  a  point  1/4  l^r*  higher  up. 


Odenwald.  DROMM.  31.  Route.     239 

From  Lindenfels  to  Bensheim  (p.  235),  11  M.,  diligence  twice 
daily  in  2  his.  (in  the  reverse  direction  nearly  3  hrs.). 

Fbom  Lindbnpbls  to  Hbppbnhbim,  a  pictureaque  walk  of  about  9  M. 
We  follow  the  path  which  descends  to  the  left  beside  the  last  house  on  the 
left  outside  the  gate  of  the  chateau,  and  take  the  third  turning  to  the  right 
(guide  post)  to  EuUhttch.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Talley  we  ascend  the 
hill,  and  taming  to  the  left  where  the  wood  begins,  reach  (s|4  hr.)  Erlen- 
bach  and  (Vz  hr.  farther)  Mitierhausen.  A  short  distance  fartiier  we  reach 
the  high-road  from  Fiirth  to  Heppenheim,  and  follow  it  till,  beyond  the 
crest  of  the  hill,  a  meadow  path  leads  off  to  the  left  to  (*li  hr.)  Kirtch- 
hamen.  Heppenheim  (p.  286)  lies  */a  hr.  farther  on.  A  sign-post,  shortly 
beyond  Eirschhausen,  indicates  the  path,  ascending  to  the  right,  to  the 
Starkenburg. 

Fbom  Lun>BNrBL8  to  Wbimhbim,  about  15  M.  (earr.  10-12  m.  in  2Vs  hrs.) 
by  the  high-road  through  the  vallev  of  the  Wesehnitz.  Pedestrians  should 
descend  to  the  S.  of  Lindenfels ;  after  10  min.  the  path  leads  to  the  left 
through  wood,  and,  in  25  min.  more,  over  a  slight,  fir-clad  eminence^ 
10  min.,  Fiirth  (L&we)^  a  small  town  on  the  Wesehnitz^  through  the  valley 
of  which  the  road  winds.  —  Diligence  from  Fiirth  to  Weinheim,  twice 
daily,  passing  (3  M.)  Rimhach  CNic.  Geist),  (3  M.)  MOrlenlach  (Krone), 
(2V4  M.)  BMiien^  and  (2i/4  M.)  Birkenan  (Reiniff  gum  Birkenauer  Thal)^  one 
of  the  prettiest  spots  in  the  valley,  with  the  chateau  and  park  of  Baron 
von  Wambolt.  —  2V4  M.  Weinheim,  see  p.  236. 

Travellers  desirous  of  spending  several  days  in  the  Odenwald  should 
proceed  from  Fiirth  (see  above)  in  a  S.E.  direction  to  the  (iVs  hr.)  Dromm^ 
by  a  footpath  which  can  hardly  be  mistaken  (safer  to  take  a  guide).  The 
Dromm  or  Tromm  (1834  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  Odenwald, 
commands  a  good  survey  of  the  valley  of  the  Wesehnitz;  the  best  point  of 
view  is  the  *Stein\  a  riven  mass  of  rock  to  the  right  of  the  path.  We  then 
proceed  to  the  S.,  passing  several  hovels,  and  at  the  point  where  the  path 
enters  an  oak-plantation  descend  to  the  right  to  Oadern.  Hence  the  route 
leads  through  a  pleasant  valley  to  Waldmiehelbach  (Lipp ;  SchOne  Aussicht)^ 
a  small  town  with  2100  inhab.,  4V2  M.  from  the  Dromm,  9  H.  from  Linden- 
fels, and  14  M.  from  Weinheim  (by  Oberabtsteinach  and  Birkenau). 

[About  6  M.  to  the  N.  lies  QrauUeti^ch  (Bauer),  in  the  wood  on  the 
hill  above  which  Qjz  hr.)  is  a  spring,  popularly  supposed  to  be  the  spot 
where  Siegfried  was  slain  by  Hagen,  as  narrated  in  the  *17ibelungen-Lied\ 
A  small  monument  was  erected  here  in  1851.] 

From  Waldmiehelbach  we  follow  the  high-road  to  Ober-Schdnmatten- 
teag,  and  then  descend  tiie  grassy  valley  of  the  Lax  by  Uhter-Schdnmatten- 
wag,  Corsika,  Heddesbachy  and  LangentTuil  to  (lOVs  M.)  Hirschhoi-n  (p.  260). 

Another  road  leads  from  Waldmiehelbach  by  SiedeUhrunn  and  Heilig- 
kreutsteinaeh  to  (12  M.)  Schdnan  (Ldwe)y  an  old  town  standing  on  the  ruins 
of  a  once  rich  and  celebrated  Cistercian  monastery,  founded  in  1136,  and 
presented  in  1560  by  Elector  Palatine  Frederick  III.  to  some  French 
refugees,  who  built  the  village.  The  church  of  the  monastery  was  destroyed 
during  the  Thirty  Years'  War;  the  present  Protestant  Church  was  formerly 
the  refectory.  From  Heiligkreuzsteinach  a  pretty  forest-path  leads  by  the 
Sehriesheimerhof  and  the  '^ffochstrasse^  to  (4  hrs.)  Heidelberg  (p.  242).  — 
From  Schonau  we  may  proceed  through  the  romantic  valley  of  the  Slei- 
naeh  to  (3  M.)  Neeharsteinach  (p.  250) ,  or  to  the  W. ,  across  the  wooded 
hill,  to  (31/2  M.)  ZtegellMUsen  (p.  260)  and  thence  to  (3  M.)  Heidelberg  (p.  242). 


b.  Eastern-  Portion. 

Heseieche  Ludwigsbahn.  Fbom  Fbamkfobt  to  Ebbbbagh,  66  H.,  in 
2»/4-3V«  hrs.  (fares  8  m.  60,  5  m.  70,  3  m.  70  pf.).  —  Fbom  Dabmstadt  to 
Wibbblsbach,  17  M.,  in  1  hr.  (fares  2  m.  25,  1  m.  50  pf.,  1  m.);  at  Wie- 
belsbach  the  two  lines  unite. 

Frankfort^  see  p.  208;  departure  from  the  E.  station.  —  3  M. 


240    BouU31.  REINHEIM.  OdenwcOd. 

Mctihkur ;  to  the  right,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Main,  are  the  vil- 
lage and  ch&teau  of  Rumpetiheim*  —  6  M.  Hochstadt^Domightim ; 
9  M.  WUhelmsbadj  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Frankforters. 

10  M.  HanaUj  W.  station;  11  M.  JJanati,  E.  station,  the  junc- 
tion for  the  express-trains  from  Frankfort  and  Stuttgart  to  Berlin. 
"Ktkntku  (Carlsberg  i  Riese;  Adler),  situated  near  the  confluence  of 
the  Kinzig  and  the  Main,  is  a  pleasant-looking  town  with  24,379 
inhab.  and  flourishing  silk  and  woollen  manufactures.  On  the  Main 
lies  the  dhkieAVL  of  Philipp$ruke,  belonging  to  the  Landgrave  of  Hesse. 

TheOdenwald  railway  now  turns  to  theS.  and  crosses  the  Main. 

—  13  M.  KUin-Auheim;  14  M.  Hainstadt.  —  17  M.  Seligenstadt,  a 
small  town  with  3700  inhab.,  receiving  its  name  from  a  celebrated 
abbey  founded  about  815-820  by  Einhard,  the  biographer  of  Char- 
lemagne. The  church  has  been  entirely  modernised  in  appearance, 
but  the  greater  part  of  the  nave  still  dates  from  the  Garlovingian  epoch. 

231/2  M.  Baberihausen ,  the  junction  of  the  Darmstadt  and 
Aschaffenburg  railway.  The  Lutheran  church,  an  edifice  in  the 
Transition  style  with  a  late-Gothic  choir  and  aisle,  contains  some 
interesting  monuments  of  the  counts  of  Hanau  and  a  late-Gothic 
carved  altar  of  1518.  —  26  M.  Langstadt;  28  M.  Kltin-Vmstadt ; 
30  M.  Grois-Vmitadt;  33  M.  Wiebelsbach-Heubach. 

Darmstadtj  see  p.  230.  Beyond  (5  M.)  Rosenhohey  to  the  E.  of 
Darmstadt,  the  line  traverses  extensive  woods.  —  51/2  M.  Nieder^ 
Ramstadt'  IVaija,  places  much  visited  from  Darmstadt ;  fine  view 
from  the  station.   The  train  now  turns  to  the  E.,  skirting  the  Modau, 

—  71/2  M.  Ober-Ramstadt ;  121/2  M.  Reinheinij  an  old  town  with 
1500  inhab.,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Oersprenz  with  the  Wembach. 

Fbom  Rbinheim  to  Lindenfels  ,  51/2  hrs. ,  a  pleasant  excursion  up 
the  busy  Gers-orentthal  (diligence  to  Brensbach,  5M.,  twice  daily,  to  Bei- 
chelsheim ,  li  M.,  once  daily).  At  (I'/i  M.)  Oross-Bieherau  ^  a  favourite 
summer-resort,  walkers  quit  the  road,  which  goes  on  to  Brensbach  (Post), 
Oersprenz,  and  Reichelsheim  in  the  valley  of  the  Gersprenz,  and  ascend  the 
valley  of  the  small  Fischbach  to  the  S.  The  shady  path  passes  through 
the  Leidert  and  leads  via  Rodau  to  (IV4  hr.)  the  chateau  of  *Lichtenbera, 
the  greater  part  of  which  was  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  about  1570-8() 
(fine  view).  We  then  descend  by  Obemhausen  to  (*/*  hr.)  Nowrody  whence  we 
proceed,  with  the  aid  of  a  guide,  through  the  lower  woods  on  the  left  to 
Erlau ,  the  ruined  castle  of  Roaenstein  (p.  241) ,  situated  at  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  and  (1  hr.)  I^'dnkisch-  Crumbach  (Horr),  the  property  of  Baron 
Gi«mmingen,  and  once  the  seat  of  the  barons  of  Rodenstein,  several  of  whose 
tombstones  are  preserved  in  the  church.  Thence  in  8/4  hr.  more  to  JB«»- 
cheUheim  (p.  241),  where  we  rejoin  the  road,  which  leads  us  to  (4V2  M.) 
Linden/els  (p.  238).  —  [A  route  IV2  hr.  shorter,  and  better  shaded,  but 
not  easily  found,  leaves  Gross-Bieberau  opposite  Ruths'*  Inn,  crosses  the 
Fischbach,  and  ascends  direct  to  the  S.,  through  the  wood,  without  touch- 
ing Lichtenberg,  to  (l^/s  hr.)  Nonrod.  Thence  in  1  hr.  to  the  Rodmttein 
and  in  i*/\  hr.  by  the  Freiheit  and  the  Winterkastener  H&he  to  Lindenfels.] 

151/2  M.  Lengfeld,  whence  the  Otzberg  (1200  ft.),  to  the  S.,  may 
be  ascended  in  8/4  hr.  j  at  the  top,  near  which  lies  the  little  town  of 
Hering  (*H6h'ring'),  is  the  well-preserved  castle  of  that  name,  with 
a  massive  tower  (extensive  view).  Descent  viai  Zip  fen  (*Inn),  or  to — 


Odenwald,  MICHELSTADT.  31,  Route.     241 

17  M.  Wiebelsbach'Heubachj  where  the  line  unites  with  that 
from  Frankfort  (see  ahove). 

361/2 M.  (from  Frankfort)  Hookst  (520ft. ;  Zur  Post ;  Burg  Breu- 
berg;  Zur  Eisenbahn'),  a  town  with  1900  inhab.,  lies  in  the  valley 
of  the  Miimling,  which  the  train  now  ascends  to  Erbach. 

About  21/2  M.  lower  down  the  pleasant  Mumlingih&l  (diligence  twice 
a  day)  lies  Neuttadt-an-der-MUmling  (Zum  Ochsen),  above  which  rises  the 
ruined  castle  of  Breuherg  (1000  ft. ;  restaurant),  with  extensive  fortifications 
of  the  first  half  of  the  16th  centarv. 

38  M.  Mumling-  Grumbach ;  40  M.  ^ont^(Buchner),  with  a  loftily- 
situated  church ;  42  M.  ZtU-Kirchbrombaeh,  The  valley  contracts. 
We  next  pass  the  village  of  Steinbach ,  vrith  a  ruined  monastery, 
the  church  of  which,  founded  in  821  by  Einhard  (p.  242),  is  still 
tolerably  preserved;  then  Schloss  Fiirsterhou,  partly  built  before 
1270,  with  four  towers  and  a  shady  park,  which  has  been  the  seat 
of  the  Counts  of  Erbach-Fiirstenau  since  the  14th  century. 

45  M.  ]ficlLel8tadt(862ft.;  *H6Ul  Friedrich;  8chwan),  a  town 
with  3400  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  Odenwald,  mentioned  in  history 
as  early  as  741,  lies  in  one  of  the  prettiest  parts  of  the  Miimling- 
thai.  The  Parish  Otureh,  a  late-Gothic  building  of  the  15th  and 
16th  cent.,  contains  numerous  tombstones  of  Counts  of  Erbach  of 
the  14- 17th  centuries.  The  Rathhatu  and  some  other  buildings 
are  interesting  examples  of  timber-architecture.  The  Market  Foun- 
tain dates  from  1541.  A  few  relics  of  the  old  fortifications  still 
exist.  Near  both  the  town  and  the  station  is  Dr.  8charfenberg*s 
Hydropathic  Establishment,  where  summer  visitors  as  well  as  pa- 
tients find  accommodation  (R.  5-25 ,  board  20-25  m.  per  week, 
cheaper  in  winter). 

A  road  and  a  footpath  lead  from  Michelstadt  to  the  W.  to  (10  M.) 
BeicheUheim  (*FoU),  a  prettily-situated  village,  commanded  by  the  conspi- 
cuous ruin  of  Reichenberg.  In  a  sequestered  hilly  and  wooded  region,  Vz  hr. 
to  the  N.  of  this  point,  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  ^Rbdtnstein,  from  which, 
according  to  the  popular  legend,  when  a  war  is  about  to  break  out,  the  wild 
huntsman,  and  his  train  gallop  with  fearful  din  to  the  castle  of  Schnellerts, 
4  H.  to  the  S.  —  From  Beichelsheim  to  UndenfeU  (p.  288),  41/3  U. 

From  Michelstadt  a  road  ascends  to  the  E.,  passing  Dorf  Erbach  and 
(4V2  M.)  Count  Erbach's  shooting-box  Eulbach^  with  its  fine  deer-park,  to 
Amorbach  (Badischer  ffof;  JSecht),  a  town  with  2500  inhabitants.  It  is  the 
residence  of  Prince  Leiningen,  and  contains  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey, 
with  a  library,  the  buildings  of  which  chiefly  date  from  last  century. 
[Excursion,  via  J?r»<«Aai  (Inn),  with  its  large  brewery,  to  Wald-Leiningen^ 
a  modern  ch&teau  in  the  English-Gothic  style,  with  a  fine  deer-park.  A 
pleasant  walk  may  also  be  taken  via  Katzenbach  and  the  Katzenbuekel 
(p.  251)  to  Eberbach  (p.  261).] 

Fkou  Amobbach  to  Miltenbkeg,  5V2  M.,  railway  in  '/a  hr.  (fares  70, 
50,  30  pf.).  —  !»/♦  M.  Weilbach. 

5^2  M.  Viltenherg  ( Engel ;  Riese),  a  busy  little  town  with  3700  inhab., 
charmingly  situated  on  the  Main^  with  extensive  quarries  of  red  sandstone, 
which  were  known  to  the  Romans.  The  old  Ch&teau  of  the  Electors  of 
Hayence.  built  in  the  15th  cent,  and  destroyed  by  Albert  of  Brandenburg 
in  1552,  has  been  recently  restored,  and  contains  a  fine  collection  of  anti- 
quities and  objects  of  art  (visitors  admitted)  \  it  commands  an  admirable 
view.  The  town  contains  several  curious  timber-dwellings  {e.g.  the  'Riese' 
Inn)  and  gate-towers.  —  Opposite  Miltenberg  lies  the  Franciscan  monastery 
of  EngeUberg,  another  good  point  of  view.  —  From  Miltenberg  to  AschafTen- 
Bakdekeb's  Rhine.   10th  Edit.  16 


242    Route  3S.  HEIDELBERG.  Holds. 

burg,  221/3  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  10  min.  13/4  H.  Klein-JBeubach  (Adler),  with 
the  chateau  and  beautiful  *park  of  Prince  Lowenstein.  The  chapel  of  the 
ch&teau  is  decorated  with  admirable  ^Frescoes  by  B.  Steinle.  In  the  woods, 
IV2  H-  to  the  S.  of  Eleinbach  and  about  the  same  distance  from  Hilten- 
berg ,  are  the  so-called  Beunen-Sdtden  ('columns  of  the  Giants') ,  twelve 
gigantic  columns  of  syenite,  the  remains  of  a  quarry  of  the  Boman  period, 
which  appears  to  have  been  suddenly  abandoned.  Picturesque  woods.  — 
Atchaffenhurg^  see  Baedeker*s  Southern  Germany. 

47  M.  Erbach  (815  ft.;  *Zum  Odenwald;  Burg  WUdenatein; 
Adler)y  a  town  with  3000  inhab.,  situated  in  the  Miimlingthal,  is 
the  principal  pUce  in  the  dominions  of  Count  Eibach.  The  *8chLo88, 
rebuilt  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  the  i6th  cent,  on  the  site  of  a 
very  ancient  castle,  and  partly  restored  in  the  i8th  cent. ,  contains 
an  interesting  ^Collection  of  armour,  old  fire-arms,  valuable  stained 
glass  of  the  i3th-17th  cent.,  Etruscan  vases,  and  a  number  of  other 
antiquities  (catalogue  from  door-keeper  50  pf.).  In  the  court  is  a 
statue  of  Count  Franz  von  Erbaeh  (d.  1823),  the  fonnder  of  the 
collections.  In  the  chapel  is  shown  the  stone  Sareophctgua  which 
once  contained  the  remains  of  Einhard  (see  p.  241)  and  his  wife 
Emma,  brought  from  the  church  of  Seligenstadt  in  1810  (fee  75  pf.). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Miimling  and  gradually  ascends  the 
E.  side  of  the  valley,  high  above  the  river.  Near  (51^/2  M.)  Httt- 
bach-Becrfelden  it  traverses  the  Bimbdchel  Viaduct^  825  ft.  long 
and  145  ft.  high.  The  busy  little  town  of  Beerfelden  (Furstenaner 
Hof ;  Traube)  Ues  2  M.  to  the  S,,  at  the  head  of  the  picturesque 
Oammelebacher  Thai.  The  line  now  turns  to  the  S.E.,  penetrates 
the  Krahberg  (on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  shooting-lodge  of  Count 
Erbach-Furstenau)  by  a  tunnel  3400  yds.  in  length ,  and  follows 
the  winding  course  of  the  Itterbach,  54^2  ^-  SchoUenbach ;  58  M. 
Kailbach,  whence  a  pleasant  walk  or  drive  may  be  taken  to  (6  M.) 
EmsUhal  (p.  241)  and  (1 1/2  M.)  Wald-Leiningen  (p.  241) ;  61 1/2  M. 
QaimuhU.    66  M.  Eberbach,  see  p.  251. 

32.  Heidelberg  and  the  Valley  of  the  Neekar. 

The  Kailway  Station  C^Restaurant)  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  The 
express-trains  alone  have  through-carriages.  The  railway  which  ascends 
the  Neckarthal  to  Wiirzburg  has  a  second  station  outside  the  Carlsthor^ 
see  p.  249. 

Hotels,  ^ear  the  Station:  *Eukopai8CHEk  Hof  (PI.  a),  in  the  Leopold-Str., 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  4  m.,  B.  I74,  table-d'hote  at  1  p.m.  31/2,  at  5  p.m.  4  m.,  'pens.' 
for  a  prolonged  stay ;  *Gband  Hotel,  *H6tel  Schbikdee  (PI.  b),  R.  &  L. 
from  2  m.,  D.  3  m.,  both  close  to  the  station:  *Victoeia  (PI.  f),  in  the 
Leopold-Str.,  R.  2-3  m.,  L.  50,  A.  60,  B.,  1  m.  2()pf.,  also  'pension';  Da&m- 
stajdtekHof  (PI.  i),  at  the  entrance  to  the  town,  R.,  L.,  d;  A.  l«/4-2V2  m., 
B.  90,  D.  2  m.  25  pf.,  well  spoken  of.  —  Baieischee  Hop  (PI.  h),  at  the 
station,  R.  2,  B.  1  m.  —  Second-class :  Wienee  Hop,  Haupt-Strasse  11,  mo- 
derate. —  In  the  Town  (1  M.  from  the  station) :  "^Pbinz  Gabl  (PI.  c),  in  the 
Kornmarkt,  near  the  lane  ascending  to  the  castle,  D.  3  m.;  ''Aoleb  (PI.  d), 
also  in  the  Kornmarkt;  •Holi.andischeb  Hop  (PI.  h),  near  the  old  bridge, 
R.  &  L.  2,  A.  Va,  B.  1  m.  —  Second-class :  *Ritteb  (PI.  k ;  p.  245) ;  ^Ba- 
DiscHEB  Hop  (PL  e),  W.  Haupt-Strasse,  with  restaurant ;  Rheinisghbb  Hop, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Haupt-Str.  and  the  Bienen-Str.,  R.  from  IV2  m. ;  Sil- 
bebneb  Hibsch,  in  the  market,  good  wine;  Dbutscueb  Hop,  Pbinz  Max, 


HUtory.  HEIDELBERG.  32.  BouU.     243 

Marstall-Str.,  unpretending.  —  On  th€  2f.  lank  of  the  Neekar^  near  the  old 
bridge,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  castle  and  the  town:  "^Neokar 
Hotel,  well  fitted  up,  B.  &L.  3,  D.  3,  A.  V^  m*)  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  alao  ^pension'. 

Pensions.  ''Lang''9  PHvaU  Hotel;  *  Villa  Bergheim  (Miss  Abrahams); 
fircm  Cctemmerer,  Anlage  3^  Pension  Anglaise;  Pens.  Schildeeker;  Frau  v. 
Maaery  Haupt-Str.  248i  Pens.  Allemande. 

Bettanrants  and  Clafit.  '*H&berlein,  with  a  ladies^  room,  Erfrischungs- 
hiaie,  both  in  the  Leopold-Str.  in  the  Anlage  (p.  244)^  *Caf4  Leers^  in  the 
Bheinidcher  Hof  (see  above)  •,  Cafi  Yogelshergery  W.  Haupi-Strasse  \  Wachier, 
in  the  Market  \  Restaurants  at  the  Schloss,  the  Molkencur  (moderate),  and 
the  Philosophenhohe  (pp.  248,  249).  Beer  at  the  Bother  Oehse,  Actienbrauereij 
Weisser  Bock;  Krone^  Sehig^,  in  Neuenheim. 

Gabs.  (All  with  two  horses).  To  or  from  the  Railway  Stations^  or 
for  a  drive  within  the  town,  or  beyond  the  bridges  to  Neuenheim  and 
the  Hirschgasse:  1  pers.  GO,  2  pers.  90,  3  pers.  1  m.  5,  4  pers.  1  m.  20  pf.  \ 
if  hired  in  Neuenheim,  30  pf.  extra;  between  11  p.m.  and  5  a.m.  double 
fares*,  each  heavy  box  20  pf.  —  By  time:  per  hour  2m.,  2m.  20,  or  2m. 
60  pf.  —  To  the  Castle  (direct)  3  m.  •,  Castle  and  Molkencur  5  m. ;  Castle^ 
Molkencur^  and  Wolfshrunnen^  6  m.  60  pf.  -,  C<M«e,  Molkencur ^  K&nigsstuhl^ 
and  Wolfsbrtmnen^  13  m.,  return-fare  V^th  or  V»th  more. 

Tramway  from  the  principal  station  via  the  Haupt-Strasse  to  the 
Carlsthor  station,  every  10  min.  (fare  15  pf.). 

Guide  (unnecessary)  to  the  Castle  IVs  m.  \  to  the  Konigsstuhl  3  m. 

BatAts.  Warm  baths  at  ^HcUler's  Badeanstalt^  in  the  Plock-Strasse 
(PI.  B,  C,  4,  5);  river-baths  in  the  Neckar,  between  the  bridges. 

Post  and  Telegrraph  Offlee,  opposite  the  station;  Town  Post  Office, 
Marstall-Strasse  6,  to  the  N.  of  the  Ludwigs-Plats.  ^  Raiheay  Ticket  Offices 
in  the  Prinz  Garl  Hotel  and  the  Europaischer  Hof. 

Photographs  of  the  Castle,  etc.,  at  E.  v.  Kdnig'^s^  Schlossweg,  and 
Eug.  Mignin's,  Haupt-Strasse  193. 

English  Church  (PI.  9 ;  B,  4),  in  the  Plock-Strasse  (300  seats) ;  services 
at  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m.    Chaplain,  Sev.  G.  O.  Calvert^  Neuenheim  94. 

PrineipaL  Attractions.  If  time  be  limited,  proceed  at  once  from  the 
station  to  the  Molkencur  and  Castle  (IV4  hr.)  as  follows :  by  the  Leopold- 
Str.  as  far  as  the  Victoria  Hotel  (PI.  f),  then  by  a  footpath  to^the  right  wind- 
ing through  tibie  '  Wo^fshohle^  in  20  min.  to  the  Rondel  ('crescent"),  whence 
a  broad  road  to  the  left  leads  to  the  (}U  M.)  Kanzel  ('pulpiV;  p.  248). 
All  descents  to  the  left  are  to  be  avoided.  1  M.  the  Molkencur;  1  M. 
the  Castle;  1/4  M.  the  Great  Terraee.  In  returning,  descend  by  the  Burg- 
weg  or  the  new  Schloss-Strasse  (p.  244),  and  walk  along  the  Haupt-Strasse 
to  the  (20  min.)  station.  Or  we  may  make  a  pleasant  detour  by  descending 
from  the  Heilig-Geistkirche  to  the  Old  Ifeckar  Bridge,  and  then  following 
the  right  bank  to  the  Jfew  Bridget  which  cfosses  to  the  station. 

Few  towns  can  vie  with  Heidelberg  in  the  beauty  of  its  en- 
virons and  its  historical  interest.  Count  Palatine  Otho  ofWittelsbaoh 
(1228-53)  transferred  the  seat  of  his  government  from  Stahleck 
(p.  115),  near  Bacharach,  to  Heidelberg,  which  thus  became  the 
capital  of  the  Palatinate,  and  continued  so  for  nearly  five  centuries, 
until  the  Elector  Charles  Philip  in  1721,  owing  to  ecclesiastical  dif- 
ferences with  the  Protestant  citizens,  transferred  his  seat  to  Mann- 
heim. Since  1802  Heidelberg  has  belonged  to  the  grand-duchy 
of  Baden.  It  now  contains  26,927  inhab.  (9500  Roman  Catholics), 
and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade. 

Heidelberg  forms  the  key  of  the  mountainous  valley  of  the 
Neckar,  which  below  the  town  opens  into  the  plain  of  the  Rhine. 
The  castle-hill  leaves  but  little  space  between  its  base  and  the  river 
for  the  farther  extension  of  the  town,  which,  apart  from  the  new 
quarters  near  the  station  and  at  Neuenheim  (p.  249),  consists  of  the 

16* 


^44     Routes^.  HEIDELBERG.  University. 

so-called  Haupt-Strasse,  a  street  about  I72  Mi-  long,  with  a  few 
unimportant  cross  and  parallel  streets.  On  the  N.  side  flows  the 
Neekar. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  extending  from  the  Station  (PL  B, 
0,6)  along  the  Leopold -Strasse,  runs  the  Anlaoe,  or  public 
promenade,  planted  with  trees,  and  flanked  with  modern  hotels 
and  handsome  dwelling-houses.  Near  the  centre  of  the  Anlage,  and 
near  the  Chemical  Laboratory  (J^h  1)  built  in  1852,  is  a  Statue  ofitte 
Bavarian  Field  Marshal  Prince  Carl  v.  Wrede  (PI.  2 :  1767-1838) 
by  Brugger,  erected  in  1860  by  Lewis  I.,  King  of  Bavaria. 

Near  the  E.  end  of  the  Anlage ,  on  the  left,  is  the  Protestant 
Church  of  St.  Peter  (PL  3),  built  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent, 
and  lately  restored,  with  a  fine  open-work  Gothic  tower.  —  Op- 
posite, on  the  other  side  of  the  railway ,  is  the  KUngenthor  (see 
p.  248),  near  which  a  bust  was  erected  in  1880  in  memory  of  Karl 
Metz  (d.  1877),  founder  of  the  German  volunteer  fire-brigade  system. 
From  this  point  the  new  and  winding  Schloss-Strasse^  commanding 
a  fine  view,  and  the  shorter  but  less  agreeable  old  road  (the  'Sehloss- 
berg')  ascend  to  the  entrance  of  the  Schlossgarten  at  the  Elisa- 
bethen-Pforte  (see  p.  247). 

Turning  to  the  left  at  the  choir  of  St.  Peter's  Church,  we  reach 
the  Ludwigs-Platz,  with  the  University  Buildings  (PL  19,  B,  3), 
erected  in  1711-15. 

The  University  (in  winter  650-700,  in  summer  1000  stud.), 
the  famous  Ruperto-Carola,  the  cradle  of  science  in  S.  Germany, 
and  after  the  universities  of  Prague  and  Vienna  the  oldest  in  Ger- 
many, was  founded  in  1386  by  Elector  Rupert  I.  Its  period  of 
greatest  prosperity  was  in  the  latter  half  of  the  16th,  and  the  be- 
ginning of  the  17th  cent.,  when,  under  Electors  Otho  Henry,  Fre- 
derick III.,  and  Frederick  IV.,  it  was  the  centre  of  ^Humanism', 
and  the  chief  Reformed  seat  of  learning  in  Germany.  During  the 
stormy  times  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War  and  the  devastation  of  the 
Rhenish  Palatinate  by  the  French  it  survived  with  difficulty.  It 
is  indebted  for  its  modern  development  to  Charles  Frederick  of 
Baden,  who  in  1804  provided  it  with  eminent  professors  and  scien- 
tific collections. 

The  Library^  in  a  separate  building,  contains  300,(XX)  vols.,  3000  HSS., 
and  ISCiO  ancient  documents.  It  is  open  daily  10-12  and  2-4  (from  May  to 
August  3-5).  Scarcely  one-third  of  the  MSS.  in  the  famous  Bibliotheca  Pa- 
latina,  which  was  transferred  to  Borne  as  a  present  from  the  Elector  Maxi- 
milian of  Bavaria  after  the  capture  of  Heidelberg  by  Tilly,  have  been  re- 
turned. (Thirty-eight  were  restored  in  1814,  and  eight  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  in  1816,  including  some  original  MSS.  of  Luther.)  The  collection  of 
MSS.  (many  with  miniatures),  autographs,  documents,  incunabula,  and  por- 
traits, on  ttie  ground-floor,  to  the  left,  is  open  gratis  to  visitors  on  Wed.  2-4 
(summer  3-5) ,  and  on  other  week-days  for  50  pf.  (30  pf.  for  each  member 
of  a  party)  i  tickets  are  obtained  in  the  lending  room  on  the  first  floor. 
—  The  other  collections  and  scientific  institutions ,  which  possess  little 
interest  for  the  passing  traveller,  consist  of  an  Archaeological  Institute,  Au- 
gustinergasse  7,  with  a  collection  of  casts  ^  a  Zoological  Museum  and  an 
extensive  Collection  0/  Miner aU^  both  in  the  Friedrichsbau  (PI.  16  5  B,  5),  a 


CaaUe.  HEIDELBERG.  3ii.  Route.     245 

Botanical  Garden^  a  Chemical  Laboratory  (p.  244),  Physioloffieal  Institute^  Bo- 
tanical Itutiiute^  Clinical  Institutions^  etc. 

The  Museum  (PI.  6),  the  property  of  a  club,  is  also  situated  in 
the  Ludwigs-Platz.  The  third  floor  contains  a  small  collection  of 
pictures  belonging  to  the  town,  in  which  Rottmann,  Feuerbach, 
Fries,  and  other  Heidelberg  artists  are  well  represented  (adm.  on 
Sun  &  Wed.  11-1,  50  pf. ;  at  other  times  by  fee  to  the  attendant). 

The  Jesuitenkirche  (PI.  7),  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the 
I8th  cent.,  has  lately  been  decorated  with  fine  polychrome  orna- 
mentation by  Mayerhauser  of  Carlsruhe,  and  contains  a  new  marble 
pulpit  by  Stelnhauser. 

In  the  Ma£kbt  Pla.ce  rises  the  Gothic  StUtskircke,  or  Heilig- 
Oeifltkirche  (PI.  8),  erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  15th  cent,  under 
Count  Palatine  Rupert.  In  1705  the  Roman  Catholic  Count  Palatine 
Johann  Wilhelm  caused  the  naye  (lately  restored)  to  be  separated  from 
the  choir  by  a  wall  (now  removed),  in  order  that  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics might  worship  in  the  latter  (now  used  by  the  'Old  Catholics'), 
while  the  Protestants  retained  the  nave.  The  choir  contains  the 
tomb  of  King  Rupert  (see  p.  247)  and  his  wife  Elizabeth,  sister  of 
the  first  Elector  of  Brandenburg.  —  Opposite  the  church  is  the  inn 
*Zum  Bitter  (PL  k),  erected  in  1592  in  the  Renaissance  style,  one 
of  the  few  houses  which  escaped  destruction  during  the  devastations 
of  1693.  —  A  few  paces  hence  is  the  old  Neckar  Bridge  (p.  249). 

The  last  of  the  side-streets  to  the  right  of  the  Market  Place  is 
the  Oberlad-Gasse  (adjoining  the  'Prinz  Carl'),  from  the  end  of 
which  we  may  reach  the  new  Road  to  thb  Castle  (p.  244).  — 
Pedestrians  continue  to  follow  the  Haupt-Strasse,  cross  the  Kom- 
markt  diagonally  to  the  right,  and  ascend  the  Burqwbg,  which 
leads  in  12  min.  (passing  under  a  long  vaulted  gateway  near  the 
top)  to  the  great  balcony  and  the  court  of  the  castle  (p.  246). 

The  ** Castle  (670  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  330  ft.  above  the 
Neckai),  situated  on  the  *Jettenbuhl',  a  wooded  spur  of  the  Konigs- 
stuhl,  was  founded  by  the  Count  Palatine  Rudolph  I.  (1294-1319), 
who  erected  his  new  chateau  below  the  old  castle  on  the  Jettenbiihl 
(p.  248).  The  building  was  extended  by  Rupert  L  (1353-90)  and 
Rupert  III,  (1399-1410),  who  was  elected  Roman  king  at  Rhens  in 
1400.  The  castle  was  then  strongly  fortified  by  the  electors  Frederick  I. 
'the  Victorious'  (1449-76),  and  LewU  V.  (1508-44).  The  palatial 
paxts  of  the  edifice  were  afterwards  erected  by  the  electors  of  the  16th 
and  17th  cent.,  particularly  Otto  Heinrich  (1556-59),  Frederick  IV. 
(1583-1610),  and  Frederick  V.  (1610-21),  King  of  Bohemia  (hus- 
band of  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  James  I.  of  England).  In  1622,  when 
Heidelberg  was  taken  by  Tilly,  the  castle  escaped  almost  uninjured. 
It  was  afterwards  restored  by  Carl  Ludwig  (1631-80),  during  whose 
reign  the  country  also  recovered  from  the  other  disasters  of  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  After  the  death  of  Carl  (in  1685),  the  last 
Protestant  Elector,    Loui9  XIV.  preferred  a  claim  to  the  Pala- 


246    RouU32,  HEIDELBERG.  Castte. 

tinate,  and  began  the  crael  and  destiactive  war  which  involved  the 
Castle  of  Heidelberg  and  so  many  others  in  one  common  ruin.  On 
24th  Oct.  1688  the  town  and  castle  capitulated  to  Count  Milac, 
the  French  general,  who  spent  the  following  winter  here.  On  the 
approach  of  the  German  armies,  however,  he  determined  to  evacuate 
the  place ,  and  on  2nd  March ,  1689 ,  he  caused  the  whole  of  the 
fortifications  to  be  blown  up ,  the  palace  to  be  burned  down,  and 
part  of  the  town  to  be  set  on  fire.  Those  parts  of  the  castle  and 
town  which  escaped  the  French  on  this  occasion  were  destroyed 
by  them  four  years  afterwards.  Thirty  or  forty  years  later  the 
greater  part  of  the  castle  was  rebuilt  by  the  Elector  Carl  Theodor 
(1716-1742),  but  In  1764  it  was  struck  by  lightning  and  finally 
reduced  to  the  ruinous  condition  in  which  we  know  it. 

The  walls  of  the  castle  are  of  vast  extent,  and  form  the  most  mag- 
nificent ruin  in  Germany.  The  ivy-clad  ruins  are  moreover  linked 
with  innumerable  historical  associations ,  and  the  striking  contrast 
here  presented  between  the  eternal  rejuvenescence  of  nature  and 
the  instability  of  the  proudest  of  human  monuments  has  called  forth 
many  a  poetic  effusion.  As  the  external  walls  (with  the  exception 
of  that  on  the  N.  side,  facing  the  town  and  the  Neckar)  served 
chiefly  for  purposes  of  defence,  all  architectural  ornament  was  re- 
served for  the  inner  facade  towards  the  *8chlo88hofy  or  castle-yard. 

Tickets  admitting  to  the  interior  of  the  ScUobs  are  procured  at  the 
corner  marked  14  in  the  plan:  charge,  including  the  'Great  Tun',  for 
1  pers.  1  m.,  2  pers.  IVs  m.,  3  pers.  or  more  50  pf.  each.  Visitors  are 
conducted  over  the  Otto-Heinrichs-Bau,  ascend  the  octagonal  tower,  pass 
from  the  Buprechts-Bau  by  the  extensive,  partly  subterranean  passages  to 
the  'Thick  Tower",  and  lastly  inspect  the  castle-chapel,  which  contains 
sculptural  and  architectural  fragments  of  the  Roman  and  later  periods, 
and  the  cellar.  Charge  for  seeing  the  'Great  Tun'  only,  for  1  pers.  20,  two 
or  three  pers.  SO,  more  than  three  pers.  10  pf.  each.  Comp.  the  Plan^  p.  243. 

The  **Otto  HeinrichS'Bau  (PI.  16) ,  erected  in  1556,  the  finest 
example  of  Renaissance  architecture  in  Germany,  first  attracts  the 
eye  and  merits  careful  inspection.  The  facade,  partly  of  the  Ionic 
and  partly  of  the  Corinthian  order,  rises  in  three  stories  above  a 
lofty  cellar  floor,  and  is  richly  adorned  with  beautiful  sculpturing. 
The  cornice  of  the  magnificent  portal,  to  which  a  double  flight  of 
steps  ascends,  is  supported  by  Caryatides.  Above  it  is  the  bust  of 
the  founder,  the  Elector  Otto  Heinrich,  with  armorial  bearings 
and  inscription.  In  the  niches  of  the  facade  are  a  number  of  sta- 
tues by  A,  Colins  of  Malines,  all  having  a  symbolical  meaning :  in  the 
four  lower  niches  are  Joshua,  Samson,  Hercules,  and  David ;  in  the 
middle  niches,  allegorical  figures  of  Strength,  Justice,  Faith, 
Charity,  Hope ;  in  the  upper  niches,  Saturn,  Mars,  Venus,  Mer- 
cury, Diana ;  on  the  parapet,  Apollo  and  Jupiter.  In  the  window- 
arches  are  medallions  of  the  heads  of  eminent  men  of  antiquity. 

The  *Friedrich8-Bau  (PI.  9),  dating  from  1601-7,  is  built  in  a 
massive  rococo  style ,  and  consists  of  four  stories  (Doric,  Tuscan, 
Ionic,  and  Corinthian).   In  ornamentation  it  is  inferior  to  the  Otto- 


CoiUe,  HEIDELBERG.  32,  RouU.    247 

Heinxlchs-Bau,  which  it  perhaps  surpasses  in  structural  grandeur. 
In  the  niches  are  statues  of  Charlemagne,  Otho  of  Wittelsbach,  and 
the  Counts  Palatine  down  to  Frederick  lY. 

In  the  comer  to  the  left  ie  tbe  entrance  to  the  cellar  (PI.  10^  adm. 
see  above),  containing  the  famouB  Seidelberg  Tuny  a  monster  cask  capable 
of  holding  49,000  gallons.  The  present  tun  was  constructed  in  1751  by  the 
Elector  Charles  Philip,  as  the  successor  to  three  others,  the  first  of  which 
was  erected  in  1501  by  the  Count  Palatine  Casimir,  the  second  by  the 
Elector  Charles  Lewis  in  1662,  and  the  third  by  Charles  Philip  in  1728. 
By  the  tun  stands  a  grotesque  wooden  figure  of  Perkeo,  court-jester  of 
Elector  Charles  PhUip.    Another  large  tun  bears  humorous  inscriptions.- 

The  Xnaieipal  Collection  of  Fieturoa  and  Aatiquitiet  in  the  Fried- 
richsbau  (entrance  PI.  14^  adm.  40  pf.,  family-tickets  for  large  parties; 
catalogue  80  pf.)  contains  an  extensive  collection  of  portraits  of  Palatine 
princes,  statesmen,  generals,  and  professors ;  documents,  coins,  relics,  wea- 
pons, ornaments;  views  of  the  castle  at  different  periods;  a  cork  model 
of  the  castle;  a  relief-plan  of  the  environs  of  Heidelberg,  etc.  Beneath  is 
the  Schlosskirehe^  containing  a  collection  of  stone  monuments  from  Heidel- 
berg and  the  neighbourhood. 

A  vaulted  passage  leads  under  the  Friedrichsbau  to  the  *Bal- 
conyj  constructed  in  1610,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view.  The 
footpath  (Burgweg ;  p.  245)  to  the  town  begins  at  the  base  of  this 
platform. 

Adjoining  the  Friedrichsbau  on  the  left  is  the  so-called 
Ruprechts- Halle,  or  Bandhaus  (PI.  8),  probably  erected  by  Ru- 
pert I.,  but  afterwards  altered.  Farther  back  is  the  so-called  Alte 
Bau(Pl.  7),  perhaps  the  remains  of  a  building  erected  by  Rudolph  I. 

Beyond  the  Alte  Bau  is  the  RupreehUbau  (PL  6),  a  simple  Go- 
thic structure  erected  by  Rupert  III.  The  imperial  eagle  with  the 
arms  of  the  Palatinate  recall  the  election  of  that  prince  to  the  sceptre 
of  the  Roman  kingdom.  Over  the  entrance  Is  a  rosary  borne  by  two 
angels ;  the  half-open  circle  is  the  guild-mark  of  the  sculptor. 

Opposite  is  a  coTered  Fountain  (PI.  23),  with  four  columns  of 
syenite  (perhaps  from  the  Felsberg,  p.  237),  which  once  adorned 
the  palace  of  Charlemagne  at  Ingelheim,  and  were  brought  here  by 
the  Count  Palatine  Ludwig. 

Passing  through  the  gateway  under  the  square  Watch  Tower 
(PI.  6),  and  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  castle-moat,  we  reach  the 
*Sohloss-Gartbn,  laid  out  in  1804  on  the  ruins  of  the  fortifications, 
and  used  as  a  nursery  of  forest-trees  In  connection  with  the  uni- 
versity. These  pleasant  grounds  contain  many  different  species  of 
pines. 

To  the  right,  near  the  "W.  entrance  to  the  garden,  at  the  end  of 
the  new  road  to  the  Castle  (pp.  244,  245),  is  the  EUsabeihen-P forte 
(PI.  1),  erected  by  Frederick  V.  in  honour  of  his  consort  (p.  245). 
This  gateway  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Stuckgarten,  an  old  bastion, 
which  together  with  the  corner-tower,  the  so-called  I>kke  Thurm 
(PI.  2) ,  defended  the  castle  on  the  W.  side.  Between  the  Dicke 
Thurm  and  the  Friedrichsbau  is  the  EngUache  Bau,  or  Elisabethen- 
bau  (PI.  3),  which  was  also  erected  by  Frederick  V. 

The  ^Oesprengte  Thurm'  (blown-up  tower;  PI.  18)  or  Pulver 


248     B(fuU32.  H£ID£LB£RQ.  MoUceneur. 

Thurm,  at  the  £.  angle  of  the  castle,  in  the  fosse  to  the  left  of  the 
exit  from  the  court,  is  of  masonry  so  solid  that ,  when  the  French 
blew  it  up  in  1689,  one-half  became  detached  and  fell  in  an  un- 
broken mass  into  the  moat ,  where  it  still  remains.  The  tower  is 
93  ft.  in  diameter,  the  walls  21  ft.  thick ;  beneath  it  are  long  case- 
mated  passages. 

One  of  the  finest  points  in  the  Schloss-Garten  is  the  *Oreat 
Terrace  to  the  N.E. ,  constructed  in  1613,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  Castle  itself.  Between  the  Castle  and  the  terrace  is  a 
Restaurant ,  where  a  band  generally  plays  on  summer  afternoons. 

Behind  the  terrace  la  the  Schloss-Hdtel ,  opened  in  March  1886  by 
Dr.  Schweninger  as  a  *Curhau8'  or  ^Sanatorinm".  New  bnildings  are  being 
erected  beside  it. 

Abont  V/t  H.  farther  to  the  E.  ia  the  Wol/sbrunnefiy  once  a  favourite 
resort  of  Frederick  Y.  and  his  wife  Elizabeth,  and  celebrated  in  a  sonnet 
of  Martin  Opitz,  who  was  a  student  at  Heidelberg  in  1619.  According  to 
tradition,  the  enchantress  Jetta  was  here  killed  by  a  wolf,  whence  the 
name.  The  five  ponds  fed  by  the  spring  contain  trout,  a  dish  of  which 
may  be  had  at  the  inn  (also  pension,  well  spoken  oO-  In  the  vicinity  is 
the  reservoir  supplying  the  water  for  the  new  aqueduct.  We  may  then 
proceed ,  enjoying  a  series  of  pleasant  views,  to  (ii/s  M.)  BehUerbaeh  (Re- 
staur, and  Pension  Vblcker),  a  station  on  the  Neckar  railway  (p.  250),  and 
cross  the  Neckar  to  Ziegelhausen  (*Adler),  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Heidel- 
bergers  (p.  260)^  where  boats  are  always  ready  to  take  walkers  back  to 
Heidelberg  by  the  river. 

The  RouTB  TO  thb  Molkbmcvb  (20  min.)  ascends  the  steps  op- 
posite the  Oesprengte  Thurm,  between  ivy-clad  walls,  passes  through 
a  small  gate,  and  reaches  the  road  which  passes  at  the  back  of  the 
castle  (finger-post).  We  may  now  either  ascend  by  the  road  or  by 
the  zigzag  footpath.  If  we  follow  the  latter  we  may  after  a  few  mi- 
nutes either  diverge  by  the  'Friesenweg'  to  the  right,  where  an  in- 
scription has  been  placed  to  the  memory  of  Ernst  Fries  (d.  1841), 
a  young  painter  of  Heidelberg ,  or  we  may  continue  to  follow  the 
zigzag  path.    (Several  finger-posts.) 

The  *Molkenciir  (960  ft.  above  the  sea^level;  195  ft.  above  the 
castle)  is  a  small  restaurant  which  commands  an  admirable  view, 
and  is  the  only  point  from  which  the  castle  is  seen  from  above.  It 
stands  on  a  spur,  near  the  site  of  the  old  castle  of  the  Counts  Pala- 
tine, which  was  destroyed  by  an  explosion  in  1537,  and  of  which 
few  traces  are  left.  It  is  said  to  have  been  inhabited  in  the  12th 
cent,  by  Conrad  of  Hohenstaufen,  brother  of  Barbarossa  (d.  1195). 

A  road  leads  from  behind  the  Molkencur  to  the  S.,  and  after  a  few 
yards  reaches  a  point  where  four  roads  meet  (finger-post).  That  on  the 
left  descends  to  the  Schloss,  the  one  straight  on  ascends  to  the  Konigsstuhl 
(see  p.  249),  while  that  to  the  right  descends  to  Heidelberg,  which  it  reaches 
at  the  Klingenihor  (p.  244).  From  the  last,  after  1  M.,  a  road  diverges  to  the 
left  and  ascends  in  6  min.  to  a  *'Bench^  commanding  an  excellent  view 
of  the  upper  part  of  the  town  and  of  the  Schloss.  A  few  paces  farther 
on  is  the  K«asel  ('pulpit'),  a  small  projecting  platform,  with  a  parapet, 
affording  a  survey  of  Heidelberg  and  the  plain.  The  Kondel  (reached 
hence  in  5  min.),  an  open  space  in  front  of  a  covered  seat,  is  also  a  charm- 
ing point  of  view.  From  the  Rondel  a  broad  path  (indicated  by  a  guide-post 
'nach  dem  BahnhoO  leads  by  the  Wolfshdhle  to  Heidelberg,  emerging  at 
he  Victoria  Hotel  (p.  242;  PI.  C,  5).  —  Immediately  beyond  the  Eondel 


Bridgei,  HEIDELBERG.  32,  Route,    249 

is  a  footpath  aacending  to  the  top  of  the  (20  min.)  ^Qeisherg  (1234  ft.), 
the  tower  on  which  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  near  Heidelberg. 
About  i  M.  farther  on  is  the  Speyererhof  (Inn,  'pens.'  4V2  m.),  a  favourite 
point  for  a  walk.    Thence  to  the  Heidelberg  station  about  I'A  M. 

The  Kftnlgaatuhl,  also  called  Kcii9er$tuhl  in  commemoration  of  the 
visit  of  the  Emperor  Francis  in  1815,  906  ft.  higher  than  the  Castle,  and 
1847  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is  reached  from  the  Molkencur  by  an  easy 
and  shaded  path  (indicated  by  a  guide-post  on  the  road  to  the  Schloss, 
behind  and  to  the  £.  of  the  Molkencur)  in  >/«  ^"^-t  O'  1>7  the  carriage-road 
in  1  hour.  The  tower  on  the  top,  93  ft.  in  height,  commands  a  most  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  Rhine,  Neckar,  Odenwald,  Haardt  Mts.,  Taunus,  the 
Black  Forest  as  far  as  the  Mercuriasberg  at  Baden,  and  even  the  cathe- 
dral of  Strassburg(?).  Inn  on  the  summit.  The  Kohlhof^  20  min.  farther 
on,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Dilsberg  and  the  valley  of  the  Neckar 
(*Inn,  with  'pension').  The  tower  at  PosselUlwt  also  commands  a  good  view. 

The  handsome  *01d  Bridge  (PI.  A,  2)  over  the  Neckar,  con- 
structed by  Elector  Charles  Theodore  in  1786-88,  is  embelllslied 
with  statues  of  the  Elector  and  of  Minerva.  About  1300  yds.  lower 
down,  at  Neuenheim,  Is  the  equally  fine  *Brew  Bridge  (PI.  A,  6). 
Both  bridges  command  beautiful  views.  The  village  of  Neuenheim 
now  forms  part  of  Heidelberg.  The  range  of  villas  recently  erected 
here  extends  almost  to  (IV2  ^0  Jlo-ndschuchsheim  (Zum  Rothen 
Ochsen).  The  garden-restaurants  of  Neuenheim  (Krone,  SchifF,  see 
p.  243)  are  much  visited  on  summer-evenings. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Neckar  is  the  *  Philosoplienweg  (PI. 
A,  5,  4 ;  Philosophenhohe  Restaurant,  well  spoken  of),  a  beautiful 
walk  extending  2  M.  along  the  slope  of  the  Heiligenherg ,  chiefly 
through  vineyards,  and  commanding  splendid  views  of  the  town, 
castle,  valley,  plain  of  the  Rhine  with  the  cathedral  of  Speyer,  and 
the  picturesque  outlines  of  the  S.  Haardt  Mts.  A  very  pleasant 
walk  of  about  1  hr.  may  be  taken  by  ascending  the  first  road  to  the 
right  beyond  Neuenheim,  near  the  new  bridge,  traversing  the  Phi- 
losophenweg ,  and  then  descending  through  the  small  lateral  valley 
of  the  Hirschgasse ,  past  the  well-kno-wn  students'  tavern  of  that 
name,  to  the  Neckar  (PI.  A,  1).  —  A  view-tower  (1250  ft.  above 
the  sea-level)  was  erected  in  1885  on  the  nearest  summit  of  the 
Heiligenberg ,  which  may  be  ascended  in  about  ^/^  hr.  from  the 
bridge  over  the  Neckar. 

The  road  ascending  the  river  to  Ziegelhausen  passes  Ickrath's 
Restaurant  and  the  Ku^henhduschen  (Restaurant  Schack),  which 
afford  an  admirable  view  of  the  castle. 

The  Valley  of  the  Keckar  from  Heidelberg  to  Neckarelz. 

Camp,  the  Map,  p.  236. 
The  ^Valley  of  the  Keekar  above  Heidelberg  affords  many 
pleasant  excursions ,  which  have  been  much  facilitated  by  the  new 
Railway  to  Nbckarblz  (30  M.  in  21/2-3  hrs.;  fares  3  m.  90,  2  m. 
60,  1  m.  60  pf.).  The  station  at  the  Carlsthor  (p.  242),  IV4  M. 
from  the  central  station,  is  connected  witli  the  latter  by  a  tunnel 
passing  under  the  castle. 


250    fiouledS.  NECKABGEMOND. 

Ab  the  train  quits  the  CarlsthoT  station ,  the  ahbey  of  Neubwg 
and  the  village  of  Ziegelhausen  (p.  248)  are  seen  to  the  left,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river.    Then  (2  M.)  SchUerbaeh  (p.  248). 

472  M.  Heekargemftnd  (P/iczfo ;  Anker ;  Karpfm,  with  Greek 
wine-room),  a  pleasant  little  town  with  1865  inhah.,  at  the  point 
where  the  Neckar  is  joined  by  the  Elaenz,  the  valley  of  which  is 
ascended  by  the  railway  to  Heilbronn.  Walks  may  be  taken  to  the 
Bockfelsen,  the  Tilly-Stein,  and  the  castle  of  Reichenstein.  —  The 
Neckarthal  Railway  crosses  the  Neckar,  penetrates  a  tunnel  leading 
into  the  valley  of  Schonau  (p.  239),  and  reaches  — 

8  M.  KeckarsteixiaclL  {Harfe^  with  garden  on  the  river;  Schwal- 
hennesty  also  'pens.',  opposite  the  station  which  is  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  town,  well  spoken  of),  a  small  town  with  1500  inhab.,  in  a 
highly  picturesque  situation,  once  the  seat  of  the  valiant  race  of  the 
Steinachs,  who  became  extinct  in  1653.  The  four  old  castles  still 
bear  testimony  to  their  power.  The  church  contains  numerous  mon- 
uments of  the  family,  several  of  whom  bore  the  surname  of  Land- 
schaden  ('land-scourge'),  perhaps  from  the  perpetual  feuds  in  which 
they  were  engaged.  One  of  the  castles  has  been  restored  in  the 
mediaeval  style  and  surrounded  with  a  park  by  its  present  proprietor 
Baron  v.  Dorth.  The  oldest  is  called  Hinterhurg  or  Schadeck ;  while 
the  highest  of  them ,  the  ''Swallow's  Nesi\  frowns  above  a  deep 
quarry.  A  good  view  of  the  pleasing  valley  of  the  Neckar  is  obtained 
from  the  tower  (from  Neckarsteinach  and  back  1  hr.). 

Opposite,  on  a  lofty  wooded  eminence,  rises  the  castle  of  Dils- 
berg  (1080  ft.),  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  Tilly  during  the  Thirty 
Years'  War.  It  was  used  as  a  state -prison  down  to  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century,  particularly  for  Heidelberg  students,  and  the 
following  anecdote  shows  how  rigorous  was  the  confinement  to  which 
the  prisoners  were  subjected.  One  day  when  the  castle  was  visited 
by  strangers  who  desired  to  see  the  cells,  they  were  told  by  the 
officer  in  command  that  he  could  not  oblige  them ,  as  the  prisoners 
were  then  making  a  tour  in  the  Odenwald  and  had  taken  the  keys 
with  them. 

1072  M.  Neckarhausen,  —  I272  M.  Hirsohhorn  (*Zum  Natura- 
listen),  lying  picturesquely  at  the  foot  of  the  handsome  and  loftily- 
situated  old  *Castle  of  the  once  powerful ,  but  now  extinct  barons 
of  Hirschhom,  or  Hirzhorn.  In  1406  one  of  the  Hirschhorns  erected 
a  Carmelite  monastery  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  original  chapel  of 
which,  built  in  a  tasteful  style,  with  pointed  towers ,  still  contains 
many  monuments  of  the  family.  Tlie  Erschheimer  Capelle,  rising 
above  the  river  on  the  right  bank ,  a  late-Gothic  building  of  1517, 
also  contains  monuments  of  the  Hirschhorns.  Two  tunnels  are 
passed  through. 

17  M.  Eberbaoh  (*Leininger  Hof,  pens.  4  m.;  *Krone,  on  the 
Neckar,  moderate,  some  of  the  rooms  divided  from  each  other  only 
by  screens,  garden;  Bail,  Restaurant),  an  old  town  with  4900  inhab., 


MOSBAGH.  32.  RouU.     251 

'belonging  to  the  Prinee  of  Leiningen,  and  canying  on  a  brisk  trade 
in  timber.  From  this  point  ve  may  in  2  hra.  fguide  not  absolutely 
necessary)  ascend  the  XatEenbnekel  (1959  ft.},  the  highest  of  the 
Odenwald  Mts.,  composed  of  red  sandstone,  through  which  dolerite 
protrudes  at  the  top.  The  tower  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valley 
of  the  Neckar,  part  of  the  duchy  of  Baden ,  and  Wurtemberg  as  far 
as  the  Alb  and  the  Black  Forest.  —  Railway  to  Erbach ,  Hoohst, 
and  Darmstadt  (or  Frankfort),  see  R.  31. 

Beyond  Eberbach  the  train  passes  8tol%eneckf  on  the  left  bank, 
the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  13th  century.  231/2  ^*  Zwingenberg 
(SchifQ,  on  the  right  bank ,  lying  close  to  the  river,  is  commanded 
by  a  picturesquely-situated  castle  of  the  Margraves  of  Baden,  which 
was  rebuilt  In  the  16th  cent.,  and  has  lately  been  restored  and 
rendered  habitable.  Five  of  the  eight  towers  are  still  preserved. 
The  Katzenbuckel  may  also  be  ascended  hence.  — 25^2  M.  Neekar- 
geraeh,  on  the  right  bank.  On  the  hill  above  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Minneburgj  which  was  destroyed  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The 
valley  now  expands.  On  the  left  bank  is  the  Reikerhalde^  so  called 
from  the  flocks  of  herons  (Relher)  which  have  established  them- 
selves here.  A  little  above  Obrigheimj  on  the  left  bank,  is  the  ruin 
of  Dauehstein.  At  Diedesheim  the  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge-of- 
boats.  —  Near  (28  M.)  Binau  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel 
V2  M.  in  length. 

30  M.  VeekarelE ,  on  the  right  bank ,  at  the  influx  of  the  Elx 
into  the  Neckar,  contains  a  late -Gothic  lodge  of  the  Templars. 
Opposite  the  town  rises  the  Neuburg, 

Neckarelz  is  the  junction  for  the  Heilbronn  and  Meckesheim 
line ,  by  which  we  may  return  to  Heidelberg  (same  distance  and 
fares).  The  stations  are  Aebaehy  AgUuterhawenj  Helmsiadi^  Waib- 
stadt,  Neidenstein^  Eaehetbronn,  Meckesheim,  junction  for  the  Heil- 
bronn and  Heidelberg  line,  Mauer^  Bammenthal,  and  Neckargemund 
(p.  250),  where  it  rejoins  the  line  above  described. 

The  first  station  beyond  Neckarelz  in  the  direction  of  Wiirzburg 
is  Xoflbach  (*Prinz  Carl,  moderate;  Badischer  Hof),  an  old  and 
busy  little  town  with  3514  iuhab. ,  on  the  Elz.  Comp.  Baedeker's 
Southern  Oermany. 

From  Heidelberg  to  Bpeyer,  17  M.,  railway  In  1  hr.  (fares  2  m. 
50,  1  m.  70,  1  m.  10  pf.).  Stations  :  4  M.  Eppelheim;  5  M.  Plank- 
stadt. 

6  M.  Bchwetiingen  {*Erbprinz,  Hirsch,  and  AdUer,  by  the 
entrance  to  the  chateau ;  H6tel  Hassler,  at  the  station),  a  pleasant 
little  town  with  4943  inhab. ,  attracts  numerous  visitors  from 
Heidelberg.  The  Sehloss,  erected  by  Elector  Karl  Ludwig  in  1656, 
and  destroyed  by  Mtflac  in  1689,  but  afterwards  restored,  was  the 
residence  of  the  electors  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  The 
♦Gaedbns  (comp.  Plan  of  Mannheim)  were  laid  out  by  Elector 


252    BOUU33.  MANNHEIM. 

Karl  Theodor  In  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent,  in  the  style  of  the 
grounds  atYeTsailles,  and  the  beautiful  old  avenues  have  since  been 
surrounded  with  grounds  in  the  English  style.  The  gardens  cover 
an  area  of  117  acres ,  and  are  embellished  with  statues,  temples, 
artificial  ruins,  a  mosque  with  lofty  minarets,  and  other  objects  in 
the  taste  of  the  18th  century.  The  fountains  play  daily  from  the 
middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  October.  The  visitor  Is  recom- 
mended to  turn  to  the  right  on  entering.  A  walk  round  the  whole 
of  the  gardens  takes  about  2  hours. 

Schwetzingen  is  the  junction  of  the  Speyer  line  with  the  rail- 
way to  Mannheim  and  Carlsruhe  (p.  255),  and  of  a  branch-line  to 
Friedrlchsfeld  (p.  237).  The  Speyer  line  passes  (10  M.)  Tkalhaus, 
and  crosses  the  Rhine  by  a  bridge  of  iron  pontoons  near  (13  M.) 
Altlussheim. 

Speyer,  see  p.  271.  The  Rhine  Station  (15  M.)  is  near  the 
cathedral;  the  Principal  Station  (17  M.)  is  reached  in  lOmin.  more. 


33.  Mannlieixa  and  Ludwigshafen. 

Sailway  Stations.  The  Main  Station  (^'Restaarant)  lies  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  town  (PL  J,  K,  5  *,  p.  264),  and  is  used  for  the  trains  to  Heidelberg 
and  Frankfort  (E.  30),  Ludwigshafen  (p.  254),  Schwetzingen  and  Carls- 
ruhe (p.  255),  and  for  the  'Riedbahn'  to  Frankfort  (p.  222).  The  Riedbahn 
has  another  station  beyond  the  Neckar  Bridge  (PI.  G,  H,  1). 

Hotels.  *PpXlzbb  Hop  (PI.  b ;  O,  H,  3,  4),  at  the  corner  of  the  Pa- 
rade-Platz  and  of  the  Planken,  R.  from  2  m.,  B.  1  m.  20,  A.  50  pf.  \  Kaiser- 
HOF,  An  den  Planken,  opposite  the  post-office,  new,  —  *Deut8CIIKR  Hop 
(PI.  c;  G,  4),  commercial,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  1  m.  80  pf.  —  *H6tel  Lanos- 
LOTH  (PL  g;  H,  3),  near  the  Strohmarkt;  Landsbbbg,  small,  near  the 
station ;  Konig  von  Portugal  (PL  d  ^  G,  3),  An  den  Planken  ;  Zdh  17eckar- 
THAL,  near  the  Neckar  bridge,  R.  iV4-lV2  m. 

Restaurants.  Wine :  Arehe  Noah  (F,  5, 2) ;  Rouniioelt  (N,  3, 5),  near  the 
Kaufhaus.  Beer :  Oafi  Bavaria  (P,  5, 1)  \  Cafi  Victoria  (P,3, 11) ;  Stem  (B,2, 
14),  near  the  theatre^  Ballhauxy  in  the  Schlossgarten,  in  the  W.  wing  of 
the  Schloss  ^  Restaurant  in  the  Stadtpark;  Prim  Max;  Alte  Sonne  (N,  3, 14) ; 
Maierhof  (E,  4,  12). 

BiTor  Baths,  above  the  bridge. 

Cabs.    From  the  station  or  the  steamboat-pier  into  the  town,    for  1 

Sers.  50 ,  2  pers.  70,  3  pers.  90,  4  pers.  1  m.  10  pf.  \  to  Ludwigshafen  1  m. 
D,  1  m.  TO,  1  m.  90,  or  2  m.  10  pf.  —  Per  drive  within  the  town :  1/4  hr. 
for  1-2  pers.  6O,  for  3-4  pers.  90  pf, ;  »/«  hr.  80  pf.  or  1  m.  20  pf. 

Tramways.  From  the  Main  Railway  Station  to  the  Rheinthor  and 
from  the  Riedbahn  Station  to  the  Rhine  Bridge,  fare  15  pf. ;  to  Ludwigs- 
hafen 25  pf.    Gomp.  the  Plan. 

Steamboat.  The  landing-place  is  below  the  bridge  over  the  Rhine, 
3/4  M.  from  the  station  at  Ludwigshafen,  and  i  M.  from  the  Mannheim 
station.    Gomp.  the  Plan.    Steamboat  to  Mayence,  via  Worms,  in  4V2  hrg. 

TTnited  States  Consul:  J.  C.  Monoghan,  Esq. 

Post  Office,  An  den  Planken  (0,  2,  6). 

Mannheim  (276  ft.),  a  town  with  61 ,210  inhab.  (1/2  Rom.  Cath.), 
situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  Neckar  and  the  Rhine  and  con- 
nected by  a  bridge  with  Ludwigshafen  on  the  left  bank  of  the  latter 
river  (p.  254),  was  founded  in  1606  by  Elector  Palatine  FredericklV. 
The  castle  he  then  built  was  destroyed  along  with  the  infant  town 


1  " r^ 


MANNHEIM.  33.  Route.    253 

in  the  Thirty  Years*  War,  and  again  by  the  French  in  1689.  For  its 
subsequent  importance  Mannheim  was  indebted  to  Elector  Charles 
Philip,  who  owing  to  ecclesiaBtical  differences  transferred  his  resi- 
dence from  Heidelberg  to  Mannheim  in  1721.  It  is  the  most  regu- 
larly built  town  in  Germany,  being  divided  into  110  square  sections 
like  a  chess-board.  The  streets  are  distinguished,  according  to  the 
American  system,  by  letters  and  numerals.  Mannheim  is  the  most 
important  commercial  town  of  the  Upper  Rhine,  tobacco,  coffee, 
grain,  and  petroleum  being  the  staple  commodities.  The  new  har- 
bour and  docks  are  very  extensive. 

The  spacious  SchloBS  (PI.  G,  H,  5),  erected  in  1720-29  and 
partly  destroyed  in  1795,  contains  several  collections.  All  of  these 
may  be  visited  at  any  time  on  payment  of  1  m. ;  the  Collection  of 
Antiquities  is  open  free  in  summer  on  Sun.,  from  11  a.m.  to  1  p.m., 
and  the  Picture  Gallery  and  the  Cabinet  of  Natural  History  on  Sun. 
and  Wed.,  11-1  and  3-5. 

The  central  structure  (entr.  opposite  the  Friedrich-Str.)  contains  the 
united  Antiquarian  Collections  of  the  grand-ducal  Antiquarium  and  the 
Society  of  Antiquaries.  Booh  I.  Plans  and  views  of  the  Palatinate,  por- 
traits of  Palatine  princes,  seals,  coins,  medieeval  sculptures.  —  Room  II. 
Mediseval  furniture,  bronzes,  reminiscences  of  Karl  Sand,  the  murderer 
of  Kotzebue  (1823).  —  Booh  III.  Ancient  woodcuts.  —  Booh  IV.  Objects 
from  China,  Japan,  India,  INorth  America,  and  South  America.  —  Boom  V. 
Bomano-Germanic  antiquities  found  near  Mannheim,  near  Hayence,  in  the 
Boman  fort  at  Osterburken  C^Helmet  of  a  Boman  legionary),  and  in  the 
burial-trenches  of  Wallstadt.  —  Boom  VI.  Etruscan  funeral  cists  in  ala- 
baster and  clay,  objects  from  Etroscan  graves,  Greek  vases  and  terracottas 
(*Girl  from  Tanagra),  marble  sculptures,  bronzes.  —  In  the  front  part  of 
the  middle  building  is  a  Collection  of  Vasts ,  acquired  at  Paris  in  1803. 
—  Hall  of  the  Boman  Monuments.  No.  6.  Belief  of  Mithras  5  19.  Votive 
stone  dedicated  to  Visueiua ;  11.  Mercury  with  the  infant  Bacchus,  a  relief 
recalling  the  Hermes  of  Olympia;  46.  (red  number)  Belief  with  Mer- 
cury; 2b.  Money-changer 5  7,  8.  Mile-stones*,  77.  'Altar  of  the  Four  Gods'; 
*24.  Votive  stone  to  the  maternal  deities,  from  Bodingen  (Jiilich) :  40.  (red 
number)  Votive  stone  to  Mars  and  Nemetona^  the  patron-deity  of  Spayer ; 
83.  (by  the  middle  window).  Altar  of  the  Four  Gods ;  11.  (red  no.)  Altar 
of  the  gods  of  the  days  of  the  week ,  with  traces  of  its  use  as  a  font ; 
39.  Tombstone  of  an  Eques  \  73.  Front  of  a  large  sarcophagus ;  36-  (red  no.) 
Votive  stone,  with  relief  of  a  winged  Genius ;  52.  Tombstone  of  a  trum- 
peter; 21.  (red  no.).  59.  Horsemen  and  giants;  14.  (red  no.)  Amor  and 
Pan;  13.  (red.  no.)  Torso  of  Mercury;  65.  Belief  of  Mercury  andHygieia; 
74.  Altar  of  the  Four  Gods ;  68.  Statue  of  a  legionary. 

The  E.  wing  (entrance  opposite  the  StephanienrStrasse)  contains  a 
Natural  Histobt  Cabinet,  a  Public  Libbaxy  (open  dally  ll-l),  and  the  — 

Picture  Gallery.  Corridor  :  Engravings  and  drawings,  and  some  ani- 
mal-paintings, landscapes,  and  sketches  by  Rud.  Kuntz,  —  Ante-Chamber. 
Modern  Baden  artists;  Karl  KwUe^  and  Rud,  Kuntt^  Several  cattle-pieces; 
313.  Kimery  Italian  countryman  at  home.  Marie  Ellenriedery  300.  Head  of  a 
child,  307.  Christ;  Fohr^  301.  Party  on  the  Chiemsee,  302,  The  Castie  of 
Eberstein ;  Bernh.  Fries,  Mountain  scene ;  Fed.  Dietz^  Destnjiction  of  Hei- 
delberg (sketch);  A.  von  Bayer ^  Convent  scene ;  Verhas,  Heidelberg  (water- 
colour).  —  Boom  I.:  L.  Cranach,  34^  Dying  Mary  and  the  Visitation,  35. 
The  Nativity  and  the  Annunciation ;  24.  HolbeinCi),  Portrait  of  an  Oriental ; 
25.  Roosy  Senator  of  Frankfort  1  19,  38.  Hamilton  (d.  1754),  Game;  122,  131. 
Kohell  (d.  1799),  Two  large  landscapes.  —  II. :  60.  Eondekoeter,  Poultry.  — 
III.:  *119.  Rubens,  Portrait  of  his  first  wife.  Isabella  Brant;  87,  88. 
/.  Ruisdael,  Landscapes.  —  IV. :  121.  Brouwer,  A  surgical  operation.  Rem- 


254  Route  33.  LUDWIOSHAFEN. 

brandt,  123.  Christ  before  Pilate,  122.  Two  clergymen,  124.  A  philosopher, 
126.  The  Woman  taken  in  adultery  (in  shades  of  brown).  127.  Potter, 
Cattle;  128.  Rembrandt^  Portrait  of  a  woman:  141.  Ruyschy  Fruit-,  163. 
WeeniXt  Game.  Terburg,  188.  Singing-lesson,  182.  Lace-maker.  ^190.  Wou- 
werman.  Plundering.  —  V.:  Tenien  ih€  Younger^  193-196.  Scenes  of  low 
life ;  200.  Van  0»tad«^  Boors.  Tenter*  the  Younger,  *201.  Rustic  wedding, 
205.  Boors  playing,  219.  Scissors-grinder,  222.  Peasants  singing.  223.  Ever- 
dingen.  Landscape  •,  286.  Joteph  Vemet,  Calm  sea.  268.  Le  Brun,  Portrait  of 
a  counsellor.  —  VI. :  269.  CHgnaniy  Jf>seph  and  Potiphar's  wife.  —  Vll. 
Municipal  Collection.  Kaulbach^  Study  of  a  head;  Wenglein,  Moorland 
scenes  Roux,  Animal  pieces*,  De/regger,  Two  studies  of  heads;  Oude, 
Marine  piece;  A.  AeKenbach^  Coast  scene;  K.  Rottmann,  Italian  landscape; 
K.  Hoff,  Capuchin  monk  in  a  peasant's  hut;  E.  QrHtmet^  Scene  from  the 
Merry  Wives  of  Windsor ;  F.  Volts,  Cow-house ;  O.  Max,  Head  of  a  wo- 
man ;  Drestler,  Italian  landscape ;  Meistonier,  Page ;  Spitztoeg,  Trainband 
soldier  on  the  rampart ;  Sehirmer,  Expulsion  from  Paradise ;  SUgert,  The 
last  of  his  race.  —  VIII.  Permanent  Exhibition  of  the  Kunstverein.  — 
IX.  Engravings. 

The  Theatre  (PI.  10),  built  in  1776-79,  restored  in  1854,  and 
admirably  decorated,  is  one  of  the  best  in  S.  Germany.  Schiller's 
first  pieces,  the  'Robbers',  'Fiesco',  and  'Cabal  and  Love',  were 
performed  here  with  the  co-operation  of  IfiTland  and  partly  under 
his  own  direction.  —  SehiUer^a  MonumerU  (PI.  4),  by  Cauer^  which 
adorns  the  Schillerplatz,  in  front  of  the  theatre,  was  erected  in  1862. 
Adjacent,  on  the  right  and  left,  are  the  statues  of  Jffland  (d.  1814), 
a  distinguished  actor  who  began  his  career  at  Mannheim,  and  Von 
Dalberg  (d.  1806),  intendant  of  the  theatre  down  to  1803,  both  by 
Widnmann,  and  erected  by  King  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria  in  1864-66. 

The  following  buildings  may  also  be  mentioned:  the  Jeauits* 
Church  (PI.  5),  richly  decorated  with  marble  and  gilding,  erected 
in  1733 ;  the  Artenal,  huilt  in  1777-78  and  now  a  barrack;  the  new 
Synagogue  (PI.  9),  in  the  Byzantine  style,  embellished  with  gilding 
and  arabesques ;  and  the  Main  Railway  Station  (PI.  J,  K,  5),  a 
handsome  structure  by  Helbling.  In  the  Parade-Platz,  in  front  of 
the  Kaufhaua  (PI.  6 ;  H,  4) ,  is  a  curious  allegorical  Monumenty 
representing  the  vicissitudes  of  the  times  (1741). 

The  Speiaemarkt  is  adorned  with  a  Monument  (Pi.  1 ;  G,  H,  3) 
erected  in  1771  in  commemoration  of  the  founding  of  Mannheim. 
On  the  N.  side  of  the  town  is  a  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Neckar, 
constructed  in  1845,  and  leading  to  the  *  Neckar  vorstadt'  with  the 
Riedbahn  Station  (p.  222). 

The  Railway  Bridge  (PI.  G,  6)  across  the  Rhine,  built  in  1866- 
68,  connects  Mannheim  with  Ludwigshafen  on  the  opp9site  bank ; 
It  is  also  used  by  carriages  and  foot-passengers.  Handsome  portals 
designed  by  Durm,  and  adorned  with  groups  of  figures  by  Moest, 

Lndwiglhafen.  —  Hotels.  Dbutbchks  Haus,  in  the  town;  Dbei 
MoHBEN ;  Ppalzer  Hof  ;  Stadt  MdMCHBN,  unpretending.  —  Restaurants. 
OeselUchafUhave,  opposite  the  B.  Oath,  church,  with  garden  and  baths ; 
Hei-nCe  Bretoery^  good  beer. 

Ludwigshafen^  a  town  with  21,000  inhab.,  begun  in  1843,  and 
rapidly  increasing  in  commercial  importance,  was  originally  only 
the  tite'-de'pont  of  Mannheim.    During  the  revolutionary  war  at 


NIERSTEIN.  34,  RouU.     255 

the  end  of  last  century  it  was  several  times  the  scene  of  sanguinary 
contests.  The  Wharfs  are  among  the  finest  on  the  Rhine  and  are 
now  heing  enlarged.  The  two  new  churches,  in  the  Romanesque 
and  Gothic  styles,  are  well  worthy  of  inspection.  The  former  (Roman 
Catholic)  contains  frescoes  by  Siissmeier. 

Ludwigshafen  is  a  central  junction  of  the  Palatinate  railways, 
which  radiate  hence  in  various  directions:  toNeustadt,  see  p. 268; 
to  Worms,  p.  257 ;  to  Speyer,  p.  271.  Passengers  to  and  from  Mann- 
heim change  carriages  here. 

From  Mannhbim  to  Gablsbuhs  (39  M.)  by  direct  railway 
(Rhine  Valley  Railway)  in  IV4-2  hrs.  (fares  5  m.,  3  m.  30,  2  m. 
20  pf.).  The  fast  express  between  Cologne  and  Basel  traverses  this 
line.  —  Immediately  after  leaving  Mannheim  and  again  at  Schwetzin- 
gen  we  see  on  the  left  the  mountains  iiffar  Heidelberg  and  the  tower 
on  the  Konigsstuhl.  2  M.  Neckarau;  5  M.  Rheinau,  —  9  M.  Schwe- 
tzingen^  see  p.  251.  The  line  now  traverses  pine-forests ;  on  the  right 
the  Palatine  Mountains  are  visible  nearly  the  whole  way.  —  Beyond 
(14  M.)  Hockenheim  we  catch  several  glimpses  of  Speyer  cathedral, 
in  the  plain  to  the  right  across  the  Rhine.  1572  ^-  Neulussheim. 
191/2  M.  Waghausel^  where  the  Baden  insurgents  were  signally 
defeated  011  21st  June,  1849.  2OV2  M.  WiesenthaL  25  M.  Oraben- 
Neudorfy  where  the  line  is  intersected  by  a  branch-line  between 
Rheinsheim  and  Bruchaal,  which  passes  the  ancient  Imperial  fortress 
of  Philippsburg,  dismantled  by  the  French  in  1800.  29VoM.  Linken- 
heim;  31  M.  Leopoldahafen ;  33  M,  Eggenatein;  35  M.  Neureuth, 
39  M.  Carlsruhe  (p.  324). 

84.  From  Mayence  to  Ladwigshafen  (Mann^im). 
Worms. 

41  M.  Railway  in  IV2-2V4  bw.  j  fares  5  m.  60,  3  m.  80,  2  m.  40  pf. 
(express  6  m.  45,  4  m.  40,  3  m.  40  pf.).  Betsitche  Ludwigsbahn  as  far  as 
Worms  (in  1-1V2  hr.),  and  beyond  it  the  PfaUi$ehe  Bahn. 

Mayence,  seep.  142.  —  The  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station, 
and  traverses  the  tunnel  under  the  citadel  to  the  Neuihor  station.  It 
then  passes  under  the  Darmstadt  line  (p.  230),  intersects  the  forti- 
fications, and  passes  the  village  of  Weisenau.  -~  2  M.  Laubenheimy 
51/2  M.  Bodenhdniy  71/2  M.  Nackenheiniy  wine-producing  villages, 
lie  on  the  vtne-clad  hills  to  the  right,  at  some  distance  from  the  Rhine. 

1072  M.  Vierstein  (^Rheinthaly  at  the  station,  with  an  old-Ger- 
man wine-saloon),  a  village  with  3200  inhab. ,  is  noted  for  its  care- 
ful vine-culture.  *Niersteiner'  is  one  of  the  best-known  and  most 
wholesome  of  Rhenish  wines ;  it  is  marked  by  a  mildly-acid  flavour 
with  considerable  aroma.  Most  of  the  wine  of  Rhenish  Hessen  is 
sold  under  this  name.  The  private  chapel  of  the  v.  Herding  family 
contains  six  large  frescoes  by  Ootzenberger.  On  the  hill  to  the  right 
rises  an  old  watch-tower. 


256    RouU  34,  OPPENHEIM.  From  Mayence 

12  M.  Oppenheim  {^Hdtel  zum  Ritter,  near  the  station),  a  manu- 
factniing  town  with  3500inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill 
rising  above  the  river,  is  commanded  by  the  red  church  of  St.  Ca- 
tharine and  the  ruined  castle  of  Landskron.  The  town  is  mentioned 
in  the  Roman  itineraries  as  Bauconica ;  it  afterwards  became  a  city 
of  the  empire  and  enjoyed  the  patronage  of  the  Franconian  emperors, 
particularly  Henry  lY . ;  and  at  a  still  later  period  it  was  an  important 
member  of  the  league  of  the  Rhenish  towns.  In  1689  the  town  was 
destroyed  by  the  French. 

On  leaving  the  station  we  turn  slightly  to  the  left,  pass  the  lofty 
round  clock-tower,  and  go  through  an  archway  below  one  of  the 
streets.  We  then  ascend,  skirting  the  medisval  wall,  to  the  (10-12 
min.)  ruins  of  the  once  famous  imperial  fortress  of  Landskron, 
which  was  burned  down  by  the  French  in  1689.  It  was  erected  in 
the  reign  of  the  Emp.  Lothaire,  and  restored  by  Emp.  Rupert,  who 
died  here  in  1410.  It  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  Oppenheim 
and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine.  —  We  next  descend  to  the  — 

*Catfiarinerikirche ,  a  fine  Gothic  edifice ,  now  undergoing  a 
thorough  restoration.  The  E.  part  of  the  «hurch  forms  a  cruciform 
edifice  with  a  tower  over  the  crossing  and  two  W.  towers ;  the  choir 
was  begun  in  1262  and  the  nave  was  erected  in  1317.  The  windows 
contain  beautiful  tracery.  The  W.  choir  (abbey-church)  was  conse- 
crated in  1439.  In  the  interior  we  observe  stained  glass  and  tomb- 
stones of  the  15th  cent.,  bearing  the  arms  of  the  Dalberg,  Sickingen, 
Greiffendau,  and  other  distinguished  families.  The  finest  of  the 
monuments  are  those  of  Johann  v.  Dalberg  (d.  1415)  and  his  wife, 
and  their  daughter  Anna  (d.  1410).  The  sacristan  lives  on  an  upper 
floor  to  the  left  of  the  steps  at  the  principal  S.  entrance  (40  pf.). 

In  front  of  the  S.  portal  of  the  church  is  the  market-place,  which 
is  embellished  with  a  War  Monument  for  1870-71 ;  the  monument 
incorporates  a  column  of  syenite  with  an  inscription,  excavated  on 
the  Landskron,  and  probably  one  of  those  quarried  on  the  Felsberg 
(p.  237). 

16  M.  OunterBblnm  (Krone),  a  small  town  which  formerly  belong- 
ed to  the  Count  of  Leiningen,  possesses  a  Romanesque  church  with 
helmet-shaped  towers.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  town  is  the  chateau  of 
the  count  with  its  gardens.  In  the  plain  between  Guntersblum  and 
Oppenheim  the  Salic  Conrad  II.  was  elected  emperor  in  1024. 

18  M.  Alsheim;  20  M.  Mettenheimj  22 V2  M.  Osthofen, 

271/2  M.  Worms,  see  p.  257. 

From  Worms  to  Darmstadt,  Frankfort  and  Mannheim  by  the  junction- 
line  to  the  Rhine  and  via  Rosengarten,  see  p.  234. 

From  Worms  to  Monsheim  (Bingen,  Diirkheim ,  etc.) ,  see  p.  262.  — 
Pfeddersheim,  the  halfway  station,  possesses  ancient  fortification^. 

3IV2M.  Bdbenheim.  —  34  M.  Trankenthal  ( H6tel  Kaufmann ; 
Reitaurani  Witter),  a  busy,  regularly-built  town  with  9100  inhab., 
possessing  a  number  of  manufactories  and  considerable  nursery- 
gardens,  was  founded  by  Calvinists  who  were  banished  from  tbe 


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to  Ludwigahafen.  WORMS.  34,  Boute.     257 

Netherlands  by  the  SpanUids  in  1554.  The  portal  of  the  late-Roman- 
eeque  Abbey  Ckurch,  situated  at  the  back  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
church,  founded  in  1119  and  consecrated  in  1224,  is  worth  inspec- 
tion. Frankenthal  is  connected  with  the  Rhine  (3  M.  distant)  by  a 
canal  constructed  in  1777. 

Fbom  Fbankenthal  to  Fbbinshxiii  (p.  262),  9  H.,  railway  in  1/2  hr. 
(75,  50  pf.).  Stations  F%otMr*heim^EppsMn,^  Lambsheim,  W«i»enheim  am  Sand. 

38  M.  Oggeraheim  (Krone).  The  Loretto  church  here  is  a  fine 
building.  A  memorial  tablet  on  a  house  in  the  Schiller-Strasse 
records  that  Schiller  resided  here  in  1781.  He  was  at  that  time 
engaged  in  writing  his  *Kabale  und  Liebe*. 

41  M.  Ludwigahafen,  see  p.  254.  —  Passengers  for  Mannheim, 
Heidelberg,  etc.,  change  carriages  here.  Route  to  Neustadt,  Neun- 
kirchen,  Landau,  etc.,  see  pp.  264,  268,  271. 


Worms.  —  Hotels.  Near  the  Station:  Eubopaisgheb Hof  (PI.  a;  B,1), 
B.  2-2Vs,  B.  1,  D.  2V2  m.;  Pfalzbb  Hop  (PI.  b:  B,  1),  R.  &  B.  2V4  m., 
unpretending.  —  In  the  Town:  ♦Alteb  Kaisbb  (PL  c ;  A,  3),  Andreaa-Str., 
near  the  cathedral  \  ♦Hotel  Habtuann  (PI.  d ;  C,  2),  Kammerer-Str.  \  these 
of  the  first  class.  —  By  the  Bridge :  Shbinischbb  Hop  (PI.  e ;  E,  4).  —  Rail- 
way Restaurant;  WorreVs  Restaurant,  near  the  station. 

Worms,  one  of  the  most  ancient,  and  in  the  middle  ages  one  of 
the  most  important  towns  in  Germany,  with  21,927inhab.  (^2  P^ot., 
1/3  Rom.  Gath.,  and  1300  Jews),  lies  in  the  rich  plain  of  the  Wonne- 
gau,  3/4  M.  from  the  Rhine.  The  culture  of  the  vine  forms  the 
great  resource  of  the  place,  but  of  late  years  a  number  of  leather  and 
other  manufactories  have  also  been  established. 

Worms  is  the  Ram&nBorhetomagu*,  the  seat  of  the  Vangiones,  which,  after 
the  period  of  the  migrations  of  the  barbarian  hordes ,  became  the  capi- 
tal of  the  kingdom  of  the  Burgundians,  who  had  descended  from  the  Baltic 
Sea  (431).  The  Franconian  kings,  and  afterwards  Charlemagne  and  his  snc- 
cessors,  frequently  resided  at  Worms.  The  war  against  ttie  Saxons  was 
planned  here  in  772,  and  here  the  great  contest  concerning  the  investiture 
of  the  bishops  with  ring  and  staff  was  adjusted  by  the  Concordat  between 
the  Emp.  Henry  V .  and  Pope  Galixtns  II.  (1122).  As  a  free  city  of  the  Em- 
pire, Worms,  in  the  disputes  between  the  emperors  and  the  princes,  always 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  former,  and  was  specially  faithful  to  the  un- 
fortunate Henry  IV.  Its  fidelity  was  rewarded  by  the  grant  of  various 
privileges,  chiefly  of  a  commercial  character.  The  union  between  Worms 
and  Mayence  laid  the  foundation  for  the  Confederation  of  Rhenish  Towns 


(1254).  At  Worms,  in  April  1521 ,  was  held  the  Imperial  Diet,  at  which 
Luther  defended  his  doctrines  before  the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  six  Electors, 
and  a  large  and  august  assemblage,  concluding  with  the  words:   Offers  I 


stand,  I  cannot  act  otherwise,  Ood  help  me!    J^en.* 

The  Thirty  Years'  War  proved  very  disastrous  to  Worms,  which  was 
repeatedly  occupied  and  laid  under  contribution  by  Hansfeld  and  Tilly, 
the  Spaniards,  and  the  Swedes.  In  1689  the  town  was  treated  with  savage 
cruelty  by  M^lac  and  the  young  Due  de  Cr^qui.  After  having  been 
pillaged,  it  was  set  on  fire,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  cathedral  and 
synagogue,  soon  became  one  smouldering  heap  of  ruins.  The  town  re- 
tained its  independence  down  to  the  Peace  of  Lun^ville  in  1801,  and  after 
the  short-lived  French  supremacy  was  annexed  to  Hessen-Darmstadt  in 
1815,  when  its  inhabitants  numbered  about  QOCO. 

Proceeding  straight  from  the  railway-station  by  the  Carmeliter- 
Strasse,  flanked  by  new  houses  with  gardens ,  we  reach  the  Luther^ 

Bakdskbb's  Rhine.   10th  Sdit.  17 


258     Route  34.  WORMS.  From  Mnyence 

Platz  with  its  tasteful  pleasure-grounds,  situated  at  the  entrance 
to  the  town,  and  occupying  the  place  of  the  former  ramparts.  It 
is  emhelUshed  with  '"Luther's  Xomunent  (PI.  B,  2),  designed  by 
Rietschelj  partly  modelled  by  him,  and  completed  after  his  death  in 
1861  hyKietz,  Dondorf,  amd  Schilling  of  Dresden  (erected  in  1868). 
This  imposing  memorial  of  the  great  Reformer  of  Germany,  the  execu- 
tion of  which  occupied  nine  years  and  cost  about  17,000/.,  merits 
examination.  A  massive  platform,  16  yds.  square  and  9Vs  ft.  high,  bears 
in  its  centre  a  large  pedestal,  surrounded  by  seven  smaller  ones.  The 
central  base  or  pedestal  is  surmounted  by  another  pedestal  in  bronze, 
adorned  with  reliefs  from  Luther's  life,  and  medallion-portraits  of  his 
contemporaries  who  contributed  to  the  Reformation.  On  it  stands  Luther''s 
*Statue  in  bronze,  11  ft.  in  height,  a  commanding  figure.  In  his  left  hand 
he  holds  a  Bible,  on  which  his  right  hand  is  placed  emphatically;  while 
his  face,  on  which  faith  is  admirably  pourtrayed,  is  turned  upwards.  'He 
is  surrounded  by  a  row  of  bold  spirits,  who  before,  or  along  with  him 
had  fought  the  last  struggle  for  the  freedom  of  the  Reformation,  or  were 
privileged  to  promote  it  in  various  positions  of  life.""  At  the  corners  of 
the  chief  pedestal,  in  a  sitting  posture ,  are  four  precursors  of  the  Refor- 
mation: in  front,  r.  *Hus8  (d.  1416),  1.  *Savonarola  (d.  1498) i  at  the  back, 
r.  Wycliffe  (d.  1387),  1.  Petrus  Waldus  (d.  1197).  On  the  side-pedestals 
in  front  are  Philip  the  Generous  of  Hessen  on  the  right,  and  Frederick  the 
Wise  of  Saxony  on  the  left;  at  the  back  Melanchthon  on  the  right,  and 
Reuchlin  on  the  left  (each  9  ft.  in  height).  Between  these,  on  lower  ped- 
estals ,  are  allegorical  figures  of  the  towns  of  (r.)  ^Magdeburg  (mourning), 
0.)  Augsburg  (making  confession),  and  (at  the  back)  Speyer  (protesting). 
Between  these  figures  are  the  arms  of  the  24  towns  of  Germany  which  first 
embraced  the  reformed  faith. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Luther -Platz  is  the  handsome  House 
of  Herr  von  Heyl,  with  a  fine  garden,  on  the  site  of  the  Bischofs^ 
kofj  or  episcopal  palace,  in  which  Luther  made  his  defence  in  1521. 
The  building  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689,  and  again  in 
1794. 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  B,  2),  dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul, 
is  a  building  of  very  ancient  origin,  but  nothing  now  remains  of  the 
original  structure.  The  W.  towers,  the  oldest  part  of  the  present 
building,  were  consecrated  in  1110,  the  remainder  of  the  building 
in  1181.  The  S.  portal,  richly  adorned  with  sculptures  of  scriptural 
subjects  and  allegorical  figures  of  the  Church  and  the  Synagogue, 
dates  from  the  14th  century.  With  its  four  elegant  towers  (the 
one  at  the  N.E.  angle  restored  in  1472),  two  domes,  and  double 
choir,  the  Cathedral  ranks,  like  those  of  Speyer  and  Mayence,  among 
the  finest  examples  of  Romanesque  architecture  in  the  Rhineland. 
The  exterior  in  particular  is  strikingly  effective. 

The  ^Interior  (entrance  on  the  S.  side;  fee  to  the  sacristan,  for 
whom  a  boy  may  be  sent,  50  pf.),  141  yds.  long,  29  yds.  wide,  across  the 
transept  40  yds.  wide,  nave  1(»  ft.  high,  has  been  recently  restored.  The 
tawdry  decoration  of  the  E.  choir  with  marble  and  gilding  dates  from  the 
18th  century.  The  Sculptures  representing  Daniel  in  the  lions'  den,  in  the 
first  S.  chapel  on  the  right,  and  the  Tombstone  of  the  three  Franconian 
Princesses  of  the  14th  cent.,  now  in  the  N.  aisle,  are  interesting. 

The  Baptistery^  on  the  left  side  of  the  S.  Portal,  contains  some  large 
^High-Relics  in  stone,  dating  from  1487  and  1488,  admirably  executed,  and 
in  excellent  preservation.  They  were  presented  by  noble  families  of 
Worms  and  placed  in  the  old  cloisters  of  1484,  but  on  the  demolition  of 


to  Ludwigshafen.  WORMS.  34.  Route,     259 

the  latter  in  1813  were  removed  to  their  present  position;  they  represent 
the  Annunciation.  Descent  from  the  Gross,  Resurrection,  Nativity,  and 
Genealogy  of  Christ.  Here,  too,  is  the  Tombstone  of  the  knight  Eberhard 
von  Heppenheim  (d.  1569),  a  well-executed  kneeling  figure  in  armour.  The 
font  is  from  the  ancient  chapel  of  St.  John,  which  was  taken  down  in  1807. 

It  may  interest  those  versed  in  German  lore  to  know  that  the 
space  in  front  of  the  cathedral  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the 
quarrel  between  Brunhilde  and  Ohriemhllde,  recorded  in  the  14th 
Adventure  of  the  Nibelungenlied.  —  A  little  to  the  S.W.,  in  the 
Andreas-Platz,  is  the  late-Romanesque  Andrtaikirche  fPl.  4;  A,  3), 
near  which  is  the  Luginsland^  a  watch-tower  of  the  13th  century. 
The  vicinity  of  the  Luginsland  and  the  ^Katterloch\  outside  the 
Speyerer  Thor,  yield  a  highly-esteemed  wine. 

The  streets  to  the  E.  lead  from  the  cathedral  to  the  Markbt 
Place,  which  contains  the  Dreifaltigkeitskirche  (PI.  5;  B,  3)  or 
church  of  the  Trinity,  huilt  in  1726.  The  streets  leading  out  of  the 
market-place,  the  Kammerer-Strasse  on  the  N.,  and  the  Speyerer- 
Strasse  on  the  S. ,  intersect  the  whole  town. 

To  the  E.  of  the  market-place  rises  the  Stadtliaiui  (PI.  11 ; 
B,  3),  recently  rebuilt  after  designs  by  Seidl.  The  large  hall  con- 
tains frescoes  by  Prell,  the  chief  one  representing  the  Emp. 
Henry  IV.  conferring  important  commercial  privileges  on  the  town 
(1074). 

The  Fanlnslcirolie  (PI.  9 ;  0,  3) ,  a  Romanesque  building  of 
1102-1116,  is  inferior  in  interest  to  the  cathedral  alone.  The  choir, 
in  the  form  of  a  half  decagon,  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  13th 
century.  The  interior,  restored  in  the  taste  of  the  18th  cent. ,  was 
fitted  up  in  1881  to  receive  the  *Paulus  Museum ,  an  extensive 
and  well-arranged  collection  of  Germanic  antiquities  of  all  epochs. 
Adm.  on  Sun.,  10.30-12.30,  free;  on  other  days  after  9  p.m.,  on 
application  to  the  custodian,  50  pf. 

The  doors  of  the  handsome  Romanesque  W.  Portal  are  a  copy  of  those 
of  Hildesheim  Cathedral. 

Interior.  We  first  reach  the  collebtion  of  prehistoric  antiquities  and 
an  Etruscan  bronze  shield,  found  in  the  Rhine  at  Mayence.  In  the  nave 
are  Roman  Antiquities,  chiefly  from  Worms  and  its  neighbourhood,  includ- 
ing a  fine  collection  of  Roman  glass,  two  helmets,  seal,  a  large  military 
diploma,  and  about  70  surgical  instruments.  The  FranJnsh  Antiquities  are 
also  arranged  here  •,  bronze  goblet  with  early  Christian  design,  richly 
ornamented  fibulae,  silver  fibula  with  Runic  inscription,  and  the  impor- 
tant articles  found  in  the  tombs  at  Flonheim.  ■—  The  two  wings  of  an 
altar,  painted  with  figures  of  8t.  Paul,  St.  Peter,  and  other  saints,  are 
from  the  chapel  of  St.  John  in  the  cathedral.  —  Documents  of  the  11- 
12th  cent,  from  the  municipal  archives  5  old  silver  goblets  of  the  Israel- 
itic  Benevolent  Society;  beaker,  hat,  gloves,  and  heraldic  wands  of 
the  'Pfeifergericht',  or  fiddlers'  court,  mentioned  by  Gtoethe  in  his  'Dich- 
tung  und  Wahrheit\  Architectural  fragments  and  sculptures.  —  The 
S€Kiri»ty  contains  a  collection  of  coins.  —  In  the  gallery  are  antiquities 
of  the  civic  guilds.  A  room,  furnished  in  the  Gothic  style,  on  the  second 
floor  of  the  IS.  tower  beside  the  W.  portal,  contains  the  ^Luther  lAbravy'^ 
with  rare  early  editions  of  the  works   of  Luther  and  his  contemporaries. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  church  are  the  cloisters  and  abbey-build- 
ings, dating  from  various  centuries. 

17* 


260    Route  34.  WORMS. 

Near  the  Mainzer  Thor,  in  the  Grosse  Judengasse,  which  diyerges 
to  the  right  of  the  Kammerer-Strasse,  is  the  Synagogue  (PI.  12; 
C,  D,  2),  an  insignificant  huilding  dating  from  the  11th  cent.,  hut 
completely  remodelled  in  the  13th  cent,  and  now  quite  modernised. 
The  Jewish  community  of  Worms  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Germany. 

In  the  Mainzer  suhurh,  which  was  destroyed  hy  the  Swedes  and 
French ,  the  late-Gothic  *Li6b£raiie]ikirolie  (^Church  of  our  Lady ; 
PI.  E,  1),  V2M.  from  the  Mainzer  Thor,  alone  escaped  (sacristan, 
28  Liehfrauenstift-Str.,  to  the  right).  The  church,  which  has  heen 
lately  restored,  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cruciform  basilica,  with  a  triforium 
and  two  W.  towers.  It  replaces  an  older  edifice,  and  was  consecrated 
in  1467 ;  the  keystone  of  the  vaulted  roof  bears  the  arms  of  the 
different  corporations  of  Worms  who  caused  it  to  be  built.  The  only 
object  of  interest  in  the  interior  is  a  curious  old  painted  sculpture 
of  the  Entombment,  with  life-size  figures,  to  the  right  of  the  prin- 
cipal entrance.  The  stained  glass  is  modern.  The  W.  Portal  is 
enriched  with  sculpture.  The  wine  called  Liebfrauenmilch  (see  In- 
trod.)  is  yielded  by  vineyards  near  the  church. 

The  Rhine  anciently  flowed  round  a  meadow  known  as  the 
Bosengarten  (PI.  F,  4),  on  the  right  bank,  opposite  Worms  (now 
the  terminus  of  the  Darmstadt  and  Frankfort  railway,  p.  231).  To 
this  spot  attach  many  ancient  traditions ,  preserved  in  the  Nibe- 
lungen  and  other  heroic  poems.  Worms  is,  indeed,  the  centre  of 
these  romantic  legends. 

Bemsheim^  3  M.  to  the  N.W.,  contains  the  chateau  of  the  Dalbergs, 
one  of  the  most  ancient  and  illostrious  families  in  Germany. 

35.  From  Bingen  or  Mayence  by  Alzey  to  Kaisers- 
lantern  or  Nenstadt. 

Railway  fbom  Bingen  to  Alzkt,  2OV2  M.,  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  2  m.  75, 
1  m.  85,    1  m.  20  pf.).     Fbom   Mayence  to  Alzey,  27  M.  ,   in   I74  hr. 


(fares  3  m.  40,  2  m.  30, 1  m.  50  pf.).  From  Alzey  to  Kaisbbslautern,  35  M., 
in  2V3  hrs.  (fares  3  m.  20,  2  m.  10  pf).  Fbom  Alzey  to  ITeustadt  ('Hessische 
Ludwigsbahn^  to  Monsheim.  and  beyond  it  'P^lzische  Bahn^),  37  If.,  in 


in  2V3  hrs.  (fares  3  m.  20,  2  m.  10  pf).  Fbom  Alzey  to  ITeustadt  ('Hessische 
Ludwigsbahn^  to  Monsheim.  and  beyond  it  'P^lzische  Bahn^),  37  M.,  in 
174-274  hrs.  (2nd  cl.  3  m.  fe  pf ,  3rd  cl.  2  m.  15  pf ).  The  route  from 
Mayence  to  Neustadt  via  Ludwigshafen  is  preferable  (express  in  274  hrs.). 

Fbom  Binqbn  (p.  119)  to  AiiZET.  The  train  leaves  the  Rhine 
at  (2  M.)  Kempten,  and  turns  southwards.  —  4^2  M.  Budeaheim' 
Dromersheim,  wine -producing  places ;  7M.  Oensingen-HorrweUer ; 
_9  M.  Welgesheim-Zotzenheim ;  10  M.  Sprendlingen ;  I2V2M.  Oau- 
bickelheim;  14  M.  WalUrtheim,  At  (16  M.)  Armsheimj  with  a  fine 
Gothic  church  of  1430,  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Floriheiniy  whence 
a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  to  Wonsheim  and  (5  M.)  the  farm  of 
Iben,  where  there  is  a  fine  Romanesque  chapel,  restored  in  1876. 
—  I9V2M.  Albig;  2OV2M.  Alzey, 

Fbom  Matbncb  (p.  142)  to  Alzbt.  —  1  M.  Oartenfeld,  472  M. 
Oonsenheinij  favourite  resorts  of  the  Mainzers.  A  tower  on  the 
Leniabergy  reached  from  Gonsenheim  by  a  walk  of  V2  ^^-  through 


ALZfiY.  35.  Route.     261 

the  shady  Muhlbachihal,  commands  a  fine  yiew.  To  the  left  is  the 
Roman  aqueduct  of  Zahlbach ;  to  the  right  lies  Finthen.  —  772  M. 
Marienborn;  10  M.  KUin-Winterheim;  I2V2  M.  Nieder-Olm; 
151/2  M.  Nieder-Saulheim;  19  M.  Worrstadt;  221/2  M.  Armaheim 
(see  above);  251/2  M.  Albig ;  27  M.  Alzey, 

Alsey  (Hdtel  Maachmannjy  a  Hessian  town  with  5655  inhab., 
on  the  8eUy  possesses  a  late-Gothic  church  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1687. 

On  the  Petenberg,  near  Oauodemheimy  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Alzey 
(beyond  Kffngemheim\  are  the  remains  of  a  monastery  founded  about  1200, 
which  was  excavated  in  1877;  the  Romanesque  crypt  contains  fragments 
ot  pilasters.    The  hill  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

From  Alzey  to  Kaisebslautbbn.  3  M.  Waklheim  ,•  7  M.  Morsch- 
heim-Ilbeaheim;  10  M.  Kirchheimbolanden  (Hdtel  Bechtelsheimer ; 
Traube),  a  busy  little  town,  with  a  ch&teau  of  the  former  princes 
of  Nassau- Wellburg,  restored  after  a  fire  in  1861  (interesting 
chapel). 

Fbom  Kibchhbihbolamdbh  to  thb  Donnebsbbbo.  a  good  road  ascends 
from  the  town  to  (4M.)  BaniMBfeU  i*Oiimbely  ^Lander^  both  unpretending), 
situated  on  the  slope  to  the  S.  of  the  road,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  old 
chestnut-trees,  and  visited  as  a  summer-resort.  About  y^  M.  farther  up 
through  wood  is  the  *  Villa  Donnertberff  (R.  from  Im.,  D.  2V«,  'pens.' 
3Vt  in.)»  with  a  view-terrace.  Pleasant  paths,  well-provided  with  finger- 
posts, lead  from  the  village  and  from  the  villa  to  various  points  of  view 
on  the  E.  and  S.  slopes  of  the  Donnersberg.  To  the  8.  of  the  villa  is 
(V4  M.)  the  Molkteplatz  (with  tablets  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71), 
1/4  M.  to  the  right  the  Wacht  am  Rheiuy  and  (*/i  M.  more)  the  HirUnfeU, 
three  fine  points  of  view.  The  Hirtenfels  is  1042  min.  from  the  tower 
on  the  top  of  the  Bonneraberg  (2244  ft.),  the  Mcn»  Jovi*  of  the  Romans, 
and  the  French  Mont  Tonnerre.  The  tower  on  the  summit  (key  ob- 
tained at  Dannenfels),  96  ft.  in  height,  commands  an  extensive  view, 
embracing  the  course  of  the  Rhine  upwards  to  a  point  near  8peyer,  the 
Haardt  Mts.  towards  the  8.,  and  the  Odenwald  and  Taunus  to  the  E. 
Near  the  tower  is  a  firmly  constructed  fragment  of  a  Celtic  fort.  To  the 
W.  of  the  tower  is  the  Waldhaus  (refreshments  on  Sun.  and  holidays),  and 
farther  on  in  the  same  direction  (1  M.)  is  the  K^nig$ttuhly  affording  a 
beautiful  view  towards  the  W.  —  Fboh  Rookbnhadsbn  (p.  157),  a  rail- 
way-station on  the  W.  side  of  the  mountain,  the  ascent  occupies  the  same 
time.  A  road  leads  thence  to  (4  M.)  the  village  of  Marienthal^  where 
the  handsome  modem-G-othic  church  contains  good  monuments  of  Counts 
of  Falkenstein  (one  with  seven  children,  who  died  in  1666-63)  from  an 
earlier  church.  From  Marienthal  to  the  tower,  1  hr.  —  The  Donners- 
berg  may  also  be  ascended  from  WinnweiUr  (p.  157;  through  the  Falken- 
stein valley,  steep,  8  hrs.),  or,  most  conveniently,  from  B&rrttadt  (see 
p.  262;  I1J3  hr.).  —  From  Dannenfels  to  OWJieim  (see  below)  via  Jacobs- 
weiler  ana  DrtUen,  5Vs  M. 

13  M.  Mamheimf  branch-line  to  Monsheim,  see  p.  262. 

1072  M.  OoUheim-Dreisen.  —  The  village  of  Odllheim  (Ooldenes 
R088)  lies  V/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  station.  Near  it  rises  the  Hasen- 
buhly  where  Emperor  Adolph  of  Nassau  was  defeated  and  slain  by 
Albert  of  Austria  on  2nd  July,  1298.  At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  town 
is  a  modem  Chapely  designed  by  Voit,  into  the  walls  of  which  is 
built  the  old  'Konigskreuz',  a  figure  of  the  Saviour  in  red  sand- 
stone, erected  on  the  battle-field  in  the  14th  century.  Below  the 
cross  is  the  Inscription:    ^Anno  milUno  trecentis  bis  minus  annis 


262   Bouu35.  dCrkheim. 

Julio  mense  Rex  Adolphus  cadit  ense,  with  an  addition  to  the  effect 
that  the  monument  was  restored  by  Count  Lewis  of  Nassau  in  1611. 

18  M.  Bbrrsiadt  (ascent  of  the  Donnersberg,  see  p.  261);  22  M. 
Langmeil  (Frank's  Restaur,  at  the  station,  beds).  The  Alseuz  line, 
see  p.  167. 

24^2  M.  Neuhemabach'  Sembach.  —  27  M.  Enkenbaeh  (Ries) 
contains  the  interesting  late  Romanesque  church  of  a  PrsBmonstra- 
tensian  abbey,  founded  in  1150  and  suppressed  in  1664.  The 
church  is  a  cruciform  vaulted  basilica,  without  a  tower,  and  is  ad- 
joined on  the  S.  by  a  cloister,  part  of  which  represented  the  left 
transept  and  was  continued  beyond  the  "W.  end  of  the  church.  Fine 
W.  portal.    The  restoration  of  the  church  was  begun  in  1876. 

32  M.  EseUfiirthf  with  the  finely  wooded  Barbarossa  Park^  be- 
longing to  Kaiserslautem.  The  (2 72  M.)  Bremerhof  is  a  favourite 
pleasure-resort. 

34  M.  Kaiserslautem  (N.  Station) ;  36  M.  Kaiserslautem  (Prin- 
cipal Station),  see  p.  269. 

Fbom  AiiZBY  TO  Nbxtstadt  via  Monshbim .  —  21/2  M.  Ketten- 
heim;  b}l.  Eppelsheim;  7M.  Qundersheim ;  972^.  Niederflorsheim ; 
12  m.  Monsheim,  the  junction  for  Worms  (p.  256)  and  forMarnheim. 

FfiouMoNSHEiM  TO  Mabmheim,  11  M.  —  2M.  Wachenheim;  4  M .  Jfarx- 
heim-Zell ,  on  the  Pfriembach ,  with  extensiye  vineyards  i  {5V8  M.  Albisi- 
heitn.  11  M.  Marnheim  (see  p.  261). 

121/2 M.  Hohensulzen;  I4V2M.  Bockenheim;  I6Y2M.  Albsheim. 

171/2  M.  Grunstadt  (Hotel  Ilgen;  PfdlzerHof)  was  the  residence 
of  the  Counts  of  Leiningen  down  to  the  French  Revolution.  The 
ruins  of  their  old  chateaux  of  Alt-  and  Neu-Leiningen^  destroyed  by 
the  French  in  1690,  lie  on  a  hill  in  the  distance  to  the  right. 

Fkom  GbCnstadt  to  Eisbnbbbg,  railway  in  V2  hr.  (fares  80,  55,  35  pf.). 
—  The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Eisbachy  passing  numerous  clay- 
pits.  IV4M.  Asse^heim;  2V8M.  JUerteshsimf  4M.  Eberttheim.  From(5V8lI.) 
Eisenberg  (Derlinger)  a  diligence  plies  twice  a  day  to  Gollheim  (p.  261)5 
a  pleasant  detour  may  be  made  by  the  (3  M .)  old  Cistercian  convent  01 
Rosenthal^  with  an  interesting  late-Gothic  church  (15th  cent.).  Thence  to 
Gollheim  SVa  M.,  to  Borrstadt  (see  above)  via  the  Hseuschen,  3V«  M.  —  From 
Eisenberg  past  Hettenheim-Leidelheim  (Meyer's  Inn),  the  ruined  chateau  of 
AU-Leiningen  (see  above)  and  Honingen  to  the  Peterskopf  (p.  263),  8V2  M., 
or  through  the  Pfaffenthal  to  the  S.  of  Honingen  to  the  Hartenburg  (p.  263), 
9Va  M. 

20  M.  Kirchheim-an-der-Eck.  From  (23^2  M.)  Freinsheim 
a  branch-line  diverges  to  Frankenthal  (see  p.  256).  24  M.  Erpolz- 
heim.    Extensive  vineyards  in  every  direction. 

27  M.  Durkheim  (380  ft.;  *CurhoUli  *Vier  Jahreszeiten,  on 
the  E.  side;  *Hdusling,  near  the  station,  R,  1  m.  70,  B.  80 pf.; 
Zum  Haardtgebirge ,  unpretending,  well  spoken  of;  Graf  a  Hotel 
Oami ;  wine  at  Bach- Meyer's^  with  garden),  with  6100  inhab.,  one 
of  the  busiest  towns  in  the  Palatinate ,  with  its  conspicuous  new 
Gothic  spire,  is  beautifully  situated  among  the  vineyards  of  the 
llaardt  Mts.  The  town  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  after  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  castle  of  the  Counts  of  Leiningeii  by  the  Elector  Palatine 


HARTENBURG.  35.  Route.     263 

Frederick  in  1471,  and  again  after  the  ravages  of  the  French  in 
1689.  It  afterwards  enjoyed  great  prosperity  as  the  residence  of 
the  Princes  of  Leiningen-Hartenbnrg,  whose  handsome  palace,  in 
which  Ififland  once  acted,  and  which  was  burned  down  by  the  French 
in  1794,  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  town-hall.  The  neigh- 
bouring salt-baths  of  PhilippshalUj  which  attract  visitors  in  spring, 
were  rented  by  a  French  company  in  1881,  and  considerably 
enlarged.  The  town,  which  is  surrounded  by  pleasant  promenades, 
is  much  visited  in  autumn  for  the  grape-cure.  A  large  and 
numerously-attended  sausage-fair  is  held  atDiirkheim  in  September. 

On  an  abmpt  eminence  at  the  entrance  to  the  Itenaehthal^  about  UhW. 
to  the  W.  of  Diirkheim,  lie  the  pictnresqne  rains  of  the  Benedictine  Abbey 
of  *Limbarg,  once  a  chateau  of  the  Salic  Connt  Conrad  the  Elder,  who  was 
elected  king  of  Germany  in  1024  (Conrad  II.).  His  eldest  son  Conrad 
having  perished  while  engaged  in  hunting,  the  king  determined  to 
convert  his  ancestral  castle  into  a  religious  house  for  the  welfare  of  his 
son's  soul.  On  12th  July,  1090,  at  4  a.m.,  as  the  chroniclers  inform  us, 
he  and  his  queen  Gisela  accordingly  laid  the  foundation-stone  of  the 
church,  and  at  a  later  hour  on  the  same  day  he  is  said  to  have  also  laid 
the  first  stone  of  the  Speyer  cathedral.  The  Abbey  of  Limburg  was  com- 
pleted twelve  years  later  and  presented  to  the  Benedictines,  who  soon 
acquired  large  possessions.  The  abbots  placed  themselves  under  the 
protection  of  the  Hartenburg  Counts  of  Leiningen,  but  having  quarrelled 
with  them,  their  abbey  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  Count  Emich  VIII. 
in  1504.  The  buildings  were  partly  re-erected  between  1515  and  1554, 
but  the  abbey  having  been  suppressed  by  Elector  Frederick  III.  in  1574 
they  gradually  fell  to  decay.  The  ruins  of  the  imposing  Basilica,  which 
now  belong  to  government,  afford  an  admirable  example  of  the  style 
of  the  11th  cent.,  and  are  surrounded  with  pleasant  grounds.  The  S.W. 
tower,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  commands  a  fine  view 
(187  steps).  Part  of  the  original  cloisters  and  the  burial-chapel,  which  is 
open  at  the  top,  are  still  preserved.  Charming  view  in  three  different 
directions.    (Tavetti  at  the  top.) 

We  may  now  proceed  towards  the  W.,  either  by  a  hilly  path  along 
the  heights,  or  by  Eauten^  to  the  '^Hartenburg,  the  conspicuous  red  ruins 
of  which  are  situated  in  the  Isenachthal,  27?  M.  from  the  Limburg.  This 
extensive  castle  was  erected  by  the  Counts  of  Leiningen  about  the  year 
1200,  and  was  afterwards  enlarged;  in  1510  it  was  restored  in  the  Re- 
naissance style,  and  in  1794  it  was  blown  up  by  the  French.  The  ruin  is 
surrounded  with  pleasant  promenades.  On  the  E.  side,  on  the  path  from 
the  Limburg,  there  is  a  large  grass-plot  where  tournaments  were  once 
held,  planted  with  fine  lime-trees,  and  commanding  a  pleasing  survey  of 
the  valley.  At  the  foot  of  the  castle  lies  the  village  oi  Hartenburg  (Hirsch), 
3  M.  from  Diirkheim  by  the  high-road.  —  A  walk  from  Hartenburg  up 
the  pretty  laenachihal  to  Frankenstein  (p.  269)  takes  about  3  hours. 

To  the  N.W.  of  Diirkheim  rises  the  wooded  Ka$tanienbtrg^  the  summit 
of  which  is  enclosed  by  a  rude  stone  rampart,  57-100  ft.  broad,  7-13  ft. 
high,  and  about  3V2  M.  in  circumference,  called  the  Heidemnaner,  and 
probably,  like  the  similar  structure  on  the  Altkonig  (p.  228),  of  ancient  Ger- 
manic origin.  On  the  right  the  rampart  is  overtopped  by  the  TeufeUttein^ 
a  rock  13  ft.  in  height.  The  'heathens'  wair  and  the  abbey  of  Limburg 
furnished  Cooper  with  the  materials  for  one  of  his  novels.  The  paths 
are  provided  with  finger-posts,  which  indicate  the  way  to  several  good 
points  of  view.  Among  the  finest  of  these  are  the  Flaggenthurm  (see 
below)  and  the  Peterskopf  (±680  ft.  \  with  the  'Schillers-Ruhe^  the 'Geiers- 
brunnen',  and  the  'Heidenfels\  «/4  hr.  from  the  Teufelsstein  and  I'A  hr. 
from  Dfirkheim.  At  the  foot  of  the  Peterskopf  is  the  forester's  house 
Weilaeh. 

On  the  hill  to  the  right,  beyond  Diirkheim,  we  observe  the 


264    Route  36.     NEUSTADT  AN  DER  HAARDT. 

Limburg,  and  nearer  the  railway  rises  the  'Flaggenthurm*  (view).  — 
29  V2  M.  Waehonheim  (DMerger  Hof);  on  the  hill  lies  the  ruined 
Wachitnhurg,  or  Oeiersburgj  once  the  property  of  the  Salic  dnkes, 
and  afterwards  that  of  the  Counts  Palatine,  destroyed  in  1689.  The 
handsome  country-houses  and  gardens  here  belong  to  wealthy  wine- 
merchants.  To  the  left  lies  Forat,  a  Tillage  which  yields  excellent 
wine.  —  31 7*2  M.  Deidesheim  (Sckuler)  is  another  wine-producing 
place  and  the  residence  of  many  extensive  ▼ineyard-proprietors. 
331/2  ^*  Kbnigsbachj  with  extensive  sandstone-quarries.  347a  M. 
Mussbaeh ;  on  the  hill  to  the  right  lie  the  long  villages  of  Kbnigs- 
hofen  and  Oimmeldingen  (^Hammers  Inn). 
37  M.  Neu8tadt,  see  below. 

36.  From  Ladwigshafen  to  Weissenbiirg  and 
Strassbnrg. 

Railway  to  Weisaenburg  (48  M.)  in  iV4-2Vs  brs-;  fares  6  m.  20,  4  m.  10, 
2  m.  65  pf. ;  express,  7  m.  10  pf.,  or  4  m.  —  Express  from  Ladwigshafen 
to  Strassburg  (89  M.)  in  3i/s  hrs. ;  fares  13  m.,  9  m.  20  pL 

Ludxcigshafen,  see  p.  264.  The  train  traverses  the  fertile  plain 
of  the  Rhine,  with  its  extensive  vineyards  and  fields  of  corn  and 
tobacco.  —  3  M.  Rheingonheim ;  6  M.  Mutterstadt, 

7^2  M.  Schifferitadt,  the  junction  for  Speyer  (5^2  M- ;  ^^^^^ 
55,  35  pf.),  Germersheim  and  Strassburg  (see  p.  271). 

The  train  approaches  the  Haardt  Mts.  —  10^2  M.  Bohl^Iggel- 
Keim;  121/2  M.  Hassloeh;  19  M.  Neuatadtj  junction  for  the  lines  to 
Durkheim,  Alzey  (R.  35),  and  Kalserslautern-Neunkirchen  (R.  37). 
Carriages  generally  changed  here. 

Hevstadt  an  der  Haardt.  —  Hotels.  ^Railway  Hotel,  in  the  Saal- 
bau  (see  below) ,  with  restaurant  and  garden ;  *LdwE ,  B.  A  B.  2V2  m- ', 
Wbissbb  Lahh  ;  PfIlzbr  Hop  ;  Batbischeb  Hof.  —  *Railwap  Restaurant ; 
*8aalbau^  see  below 5  Old  German  Wine-Room,  Post-Strasse.  —  Beer  at 
Frank"**,  Kallmaver't,  and  the  *Pottm^hle,  the  last  with  a  garden  and  baths. 

Neustadty  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  valley  of  the  Speyer- 
bach,  the  largest  town  In  the  Haardt  district  (12,246  inhab.),  pos- 
sesses several  manufactories,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  wine- 
trade.  (Palatinate  wines,  see  Introd.)  Near  the  station  is  the 
Saalbau,  a  Renaissance  edifice,  built  by  a  company  in  1871-72  as 
a  hall  for  balls,  concerts,  and  meetings.  The  handsome  Gothic 
Abbey  Church,  founded  in  1354  and  completed  in  1489,  contains 
the  tombstones  of  several  of  the  Counts  Palatine,  the  founders  of 
Neustadt.  The  Rom.  Gath.  iMdwigskirche,  a  modern-Gothic  Church, 
was  consecrated  in  1862.  The  Stadthaus,  formerly  a  Jesuit  college, 
was  built  in  1743.  The  Crtche  in  the  Hetzel-Platz  and  the  Neptune 
Fountain  in  the  Strohmarkt,  and  the  Hospital  (not  quite  finished) 
in  the  S.E.  of  the  town,  were  erected  by  Hr.  Hetzel,  a  banker. 

Neustadt,  being  the  intersecting  point  of  the  various  railways 
of  the  Palatinate,  makes  an  admirable  starting-point  for  excursions 
in  the  Haardt  district.  Tours  in  this  neighbourhood  and  throughout 


MAXBURG.  36,  RouU.    265 

the  whole  of  the  Palatinate  haye  been  greatly  facilitated  by  the 
praiseworthy  exertions  of  the  'Pfalzer  Yerschdnerungsverein'  in 
making  paths  and  ereoting  finger-posts. 

About  1/4  M.  from  the  station  is  the  JScMesthaus  (Inn),  and  */«  ^-  ^  the 
W.  is  the  SehUtzenTiaut  (Restaurant),  both  affording  good  views  of  Neustadt. 
Farther  on,  at  about  the  same  height  above  the  valley,  opens  the  SehOnthal^ 
with  its  beautiful  fountains  (Restaurant);  opposite  rises  the  Wolfsburg 
(see  below).  A  walk  through  the  Schonthal  brings  us  to  the  (V4  K.)  shady 
Kaltenbrunner-Thal,  which  begins  at  the  KffnigtmUhle  (Restaurant;  one- 
horse  carr.  from  Ifeustadt  3  m.)*  —  A  pleasant  path  leads  past  the  (3  H.) 
Kalte  Brunnen  and  through  the  Fintterthal  (numerous  finger-posts ;  to  Span- 
genberg  and  Erfenstein,  p.  269,  2  hrs.)  to  (2Vt  hrs.)  the  SchAuel  (p.  266), 
in  defending  which  the  Prussian  General  von  Pfau  fell  in  1794.  Refresh- 
ments may  be  obtained  at  the  forester's  house  of  ffeldenttein.  Thence 
through  the  Tri^enthal  to  Sdenkobm  (p.  266),  2  hrs. 

About  11/3  M.  to  the  N.  of  l^eustadt  lies  the  small  village  of  Haardt, 
on  the  ridge  in  front  of  which  is  the  Villa  Daequi,  to  the  right  of  Weltch'^t 
Terrace,  a  good  point  of  view.  Near  the  village  rises  the  castle  of  Win- 
zingen,  or  '•Haardter  Behlott\  recently  rebuilt  in  the  French  Renaissance 
style.  Beyond  the  village ,  near  the  church,  are  the  *  Wo\f*gehen  Anlagen 
(open  to  the  public),  which  command  an  admirable  survey  of  the  valley 
of  the  Rhine  (evening-light  best).  —  By  the  third  house  in  Haardt  is  a 
finger-post,  indicating  the  way,  leading  past  the  vineyards  belonging  to 
Dr.  Clemm,  proprietor  of  the  castle  of  Winzingen,  and  then  to  the  right  by 
the  Kaiserweg  to  the  *Wilhelms-Flatz  (2  M.  from  Neustadt),  which  com- 
mands a  superb  view  to  the  8.  A  zigzag  leads  hence  in  40  min.  to  the 
tower  on  the  Weit^ief  (1820  ft,  always  open),  which  commands  an  exten- 
sive view.  Finger-posts  indicate  the  way  thence  to  the  (25  min.)  'Berg- 
atein  (1640  ft.),  affording  a  beautiful  view  of  ITeustadt ,  the  Speyerbach- 
thal,  and  the  Schonthal.  From  the  Bergstein  we  proceed  to  the  (40  min.) 
ruin  of  Wd/gburg  and  thence  to  (40  min.)  Keustadt. 

Fkom  l^BUSTADT  TO  THs  Maxbuso,  l^/i  hr.  —  From  the  road  between 
the  station  and  the  town  we  turn  to  the  S. ,  passing  the  Schiesshaus  on 
the  left.  [After  5  min.  we  reach  a  finger-post  on  the  right,  pointing  out 
the  way  to  the  (1  hr.)  pavilion  on  the  NolUn  (1640  ft.),  whence  we  may 
reach  the  Maxburg  in  an  hour  more.]  At  (25  min.)  Oberhambixeh  we  ascend 
the  steep  paved  path  to  the  right;  V«  hr.,  finger-post;  25  min.,  the  top 
(custodian  40  pf.).  The  *Hazbiirg,  or  Hambctcher  8ehlo»s,  formerly  called 
the  Xesfenburg  ('chestnut  castle"),  is  conspicuously  situated  on  a  spur  of 
the  Haardt,  1060  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  about  650  ft.  above  the  plain. 
The  handsome  chateau  was  re-erected  in  the  Gothic  style  by  Foi<,  by 
order  of  Max  II.  of  Bavaria,  but  is  in  a  neglected  condition.  Large  frag- 
ments of  Roman  walls  are  still  exposed  to  view,  this  having  probably  been 
the  site  of  one  of  the  eastra  etaHva  which  commanded  Germania  Superior. 
The  medieeval  castle,  which  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Henry  II.,  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Bishops  of  Speyer  in  11(X).  In  the  Peasant  War 
of  1525  the  castle  was  pillaged  and  destroyed,  but  a  few  years  later  it  was 
restored  at  the  expense  of  the  peasantry.  In  1562  it  was  burned  down  by 
Margrave  Albert  Alcibiades  of  Brandenburg,  and,  like  most  of  the  castles 
in  the  Palatinate,  was  finally  destroyed  by  the  mercenaries  of  the  'most 
Christian'  Grand  Monarque  in  1688.  On  27th  May,  1832,  the  'Hambacher 
Fest\  the  first  great  public  meeting  in  Germany,  took  place  here. 

A  steep  path  descends  from  the  Maxburg  to  (V4  hr.)  Diedesfeld  and 
(V«  hr.)  the  railway-station  of  Maikammer  (see  below).  —  Or  from  the 
Maxburg  we  may  proceed  to  0/3  hr.)  the  village  of  Maikammer,  (1  hr.)  Eden- 
koben^  0/3  hr.)  Rhodt,  and  the  Villa  LudwigsTidhe  (see  below). 

Neastadt  is  a  terminal  station.  The  train  next  skirts  the  exten- 
sive vineyards  of  the  Haardt  district,  commanding  beautiful  views, 
especially  by  morning  light.  —  22 Y2  M.  Maikammer- KirrweiUr ; 
to  the  right  rises  the  Maxburg  (see  above),  which  may  be  reached 


266    Route  36.  LANDAU.  From  Ludwigshafen 

hence  in  1  hr. ;  farther  distant  la  the  KcUmit  (2230  ft. ;  with  a 
belvedere  at  the  top),  which  may  be  ascended  from  Nenstadt  yik 
the  Kaltenbrunner-Thal  in  2  hours.  On  a  height  more  to  the  S.,  by 
the  village  of  8t.  Martin^  2  M.  from  Malkammer,  are  the  ruins  of 
the  Kropsburgy  which  belonged  to  the  Dalbergs  down  to  1790.  On 
the  Steigerkopf  (2008  ft.),  6  M.  to  the  W.,  is  the  Schanzel  (p.  265). 

24Y2  M.  Edenkoben  (^Schaafy  with  pleasant  garden),  a  cheer- 
ful little  town,  with  a  sulphur-spring,  is  much  frequented  for  the 
grape-cure  in  autumn.  Near  the  thriving  village  of  Bhodt,  3  M. 
from  Edenkoben,  Is  seen  the  royal  Villa  LudwigshdhCj  above  which 
rises  the  ruined  Rietburg  or  Rippburg.  The  villa,  built  for  Lewis  I. 
by  Gartner,  but  never  furnished,  commands  a  charming  view. 

26  m.  Edesheim;  28^2  M.  Knoringen.  The  train  crosses  the 
Queiehj  which  formed  the  boundary  between  Alsace  and  the  Palatinate 
down  to  1815,  and  separates  the  Yosges  and  Haardt  Mts. 

301/2  M.  Landau  (*8chwan^  Korber),  a  town  with  9403  inhab. 
(I/2  Protestants),  was  a  fortified  place  at  an  early  period.  In  the 
Thirty  Years'  War  it  was  besieged  and  taken  seven  times ;  in  1680 
it  was  captured  by  Louis  XIV.,  and  in  1686  it  was  fortified  by 
Vauban.  From  the  Peace  of  Rastatt  (1714)  down  to  1815  it  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  French,  after  which  it  was  annexed  to 
Bavaria.  In  1867  the  fortifications  were  removed.  The  town  has 
recently  much  extended  beside  the  W.  station  (see  below). 

From  Landau  to  Oermertheim,  see  p.  275. 

From  Landau  to  AnnweiUr  and  ZweibrilcJteny  see  R.  39. 

About  5  M.  to  tbe  N.W.  of  Landau  (diligence  four  times  daily)  is  the 
village  of  Gleiaweiler  (1066  ft.),  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Teufelsberg 
(1950  ft.  ^  *View  of  the  Vosges),  with  a  large  Hydropathic  Establishment, 
with  whey,  grape,  and  'cow-house  air'  cures  (also  a  Botel ;  'pension'  and 
medical  attendance,  30-60  m.  per  week).  —  Pleasant  walk  of  IVs  ^t^-  to  the 
S.W.  to  the  ruin  of  Schar/eneck,  with  fine  views. 

To  the  right  are  visible  the  Madenburg,  the  Trifels,  the  Miinz- 
berg,  and  the  Rehberg  (comp.  pp.  276,  277).  —  34  M.  Insheim; 
351/2  M.  Rohrbach. 

Diligence  twice  daily  in  IV2  hr.  from  Rohrbach  to  (7  M.)  EJinffen- 
manster^  on  the  Klingbach  at  the  foot  of  the  Haardt.  The  ruined  Bene- 
dictine convent  was  founded  in  650  by  Dagobert  II.  Klingenmilnster  alfio 
contains  the  extensive  District  Lunatic  Asylum. 

38  M.  Winden,  junction  for  Maxau  and  Carlsruhe  (see  p.  331), 
and  for  Bergzabem. 

Fbom  Linden  to  Bkbqzabkbn,  6  M. ,  railway  in  Va  hr.  (fares  55, 
35 pf.).  — Intermediate  stations:  Barbelroth-OberhausenyKapellen-Drustceiler. 
Bergzabem  (Rdssle;  PJlug)  is  an  old  town,  with  partly-preserved  forti- 
fications.   Diligence  hence  once  daily  to  (16  M.)  Dahn  (p.  278). 

42 V2  M.  Schaidt'Steinfeld ;  45  M.  Kapsxceyer,  the  last  Bavarian 
station.  The  train  enters  Alsace  and  crosses  the  Lauter,  To  the  left 
are  the  Bienwald  and  the  Geisberg  (see  below). 

48  m.  'WeiBBenhTUg  (^Eng el,  Schw an,  in  the  town;  *Ooldene 
Rose,  moderate ;  Dilrr's  Qasihof,  at  the  railway-station),  a  very  an- 
cient town  with  6200  inhab. ,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the 
Merovingian  kings,  was  the  seat  of  an  independent  abbey,  founded 


to  Strassburg.  WORTH.  36.  Route.     267 

by  Dagobertll.,  down  to  1534.  The  ^Ahbay  Church  of  St.  Peter 
and  8t.  Paul  is  a  noble  example  of  the  early-Gothic  style  (13th 
cent.),  with  a  tower  above  the  centre  of  the  transept.  In  the  in- 
terior are  fine  stained-glass  windows,  of  the  13th  (Romanesque ; 
on  the  S.  side),  14th,  and  15th  centuries.  It  is  adjoined  on  the 
N.  side  by  handsome  Gothic  cloisters ,  which  have  been  recently 
restored  and  converted  into  a  Museum  for  Antiquities  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  Weissenburg.  The  Johanniskirche^  partly  Romanesque 
in  style,  and  many  of  the  private  houses  are  also  interesting  edifices. 

On  4th  Aug.,  1870,  part  of  the  German  army  under  the  Crown  Prince 
of  Prussia  gained  a  decisive  victory  here  over  the  French  under  Abel  Douay. 
The  town,  defended  by  a  simple  wall,  and  the  G-eisberg,  2  M.  to  the  S., 
were  occupied  by  the  French,  but  were  attacked  by  Prussians  from  the  E. 
and  Bavarians  from  the  N.,  and  both  taken  after  a  severe  struggle.  In 
order  to  form  an  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  ground,  the  traveller  should 
follow  the  Lauterhurg  road,  turn  to  the  right  about  1  M .  from  the  station, 
cross  the  railway,  and  proceed  by  a  footpath  to  the  (%  M.)  Outleuthof  and 
the  (^4  M.)  chateau  of  Geitberg,  now  a  farm-house,  round  which  the 
struggle  was  very  hotly  contested.  Fine  view  from  the  terrace  on  the  E. 
side.  Douay  fell  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  on  the  way  to  which  numerous 
graves  of  the  fallen  are  passed.  The  traveller  may  now  return  by  the 
Hagenau  road  on  the  W.  side,  a  round  of  2-2 V2  hrs.  in  all. 

A  new  path,  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  ascends  gradually  from 
the  Hagenauer  Thor  to  the  ^Bcherhohl  (1664  ft.),  a  fine  point  of  view, 
3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Weissenburg,  to  the  right  of  the  road  to  Bitsch.  There 
is  a  tower  at  the  top.  —  The  excursion  may  be  pleasantly  extended  by 
the  Bitsch  road  to  Lembach  (9  M.  from  Weissenburg)  and  (15V2  M.)  Oher- 
tteinbach  (p.  279). 

On  quitting  Weissenburg  the  train  describes  a  circuit  round  the 
Geisberg,  and  passes  stations  RiedatlSy  Hunspach,  and  Hofen. 

58  M.  Sulz  nnter  dem  Walde  (Rossle),  the  best  starting-point 
for  a  visit  to  the  battle-field  of  6th  Aug.  1870.  —  At  Lobsann  and 
Sehwabweilerj  near  Sulz,  petroleum  and  asphalt  are  obtained. 

Leaving  the  station,  the  traveller  follows  the  road  as  far  as  the  middle 
of  the  village,  and  then  turns  to  the  left.  Beyond  the  village  the  road  to 
(12V«  M.)  Reichshofen  leads  to  the  left  to  Kutzenhausen  and  Merekweiler. 
On  the  right,  a  little  farther,  lies  Preuschdorfy  whence  the  5th  Prussian 
corips  marched  on  the  morning  of  6th  August.  At  the  point  where  the  road 
begins  to  descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Sauer^  a  few  paces  beyond  a 
finger-post  (41/2  M.  from  Sulz),  which  indicates  the  road  to  Tiefenbach  to 
the  left,  and  Qotrsdorf  to  the  right,  an  admirable  view  of  the  entire 
battle-field  is  disclosed  (the  Crown-Prince  was  stationed  in  the  fields  to 
the  right):  in  the  valley  opposite  the  spectator  lies  W6rth  CWeiaaes  Pferd)^ 
with  its  ancient  castle-tower,  which  with  Frdschweiler  and  Elsatshauten 
to  the  left,  also  situated  on  the  hill,  formed  the  centre  of  the  French 
position.  By  noon  the  Germans  had  possessed  themselves  of  Worth,  but 
the  height  of  Froschweiler  held  out  against  them  until  the  lith  corps 
advanced  from  Ounstett  behind  the  woods  and  stormed  Elsasshausen,  and 
the  Bavarians  marched  up  from  Langentulzbach^  the  red  roofs  of  which 
peep  through  the  woods  on  the  right.  From  W6rth  (following  the  road  to 
the  right  in  the  village)  to  Froschweiler  is  a  walk  of  20  minutes.  The 
church  of  Froschweiler  was  destroyed,  with  the  exception  of  the  outer 
walls,  but  a  new  one,  the  tower  of  which  overlooks  the  whole  of  the 
battle-field,  has  been  built.  To  the  S.E.  of  Merbaeh^  in  the  direction  of 
Mofsbronriy  is  the  point  where  the  French  cavalry  made  its  gallant  onset, 
which  certainly  covered  the  retreat  of  the  infantry,  but  resulted  in  the 
destruction  of  the  whole  brigade  of  horse.  The  battle-field  is  now  studded 
with  monuments,  the  principal  German  one  being  near  Elsasshausen  and 


268    Route  36,  HAGENAV. 

the  largMt  French  one  to  the  IS.  of  the  road  from  Worth  to  Froschweiler. 
From  Frdschweiler  to  Reieh$ho/en  (p.  288),  2V4  U. ;  and  on  to  Jfiederbronn 
(p.  288),  11/4  M.  more. 

The  line  now  trayerses  part  of  the  Forett  of  Hagenau^  -which  is 
45,000  acres  in  extent.  —  BSVs  M.  Walbwg,  a  small  Tillage  in  the 
forest,  with  a  fine  church  of  the  15th  century,  is  also  a  good  start- 
ing-point for  a  visit  to  the  battlefield  of  6th  Aug.  1870  (from 
Walburg  to  Worth  via  Gunstedt  51/2  M.). 

68Y2M.  Hagenan  (^Europaiseher  Hof;  Post;  Wilder  Mann, 
good  red  wine),  with  12,700  inhabitants,  was  once  a  free  town  of 
the  German  Empire  and  a  fortress,  the  works  of  which  are  partly 
preserved.  The  walls  were  erected  by  £mp.  Frederick  I.  in  1164. 
The  palace  built  by  the  same  emperor,  afterwards  a  favourite  re- 
sidence of  the  Hohenstaufen,  was  destroyed  In  the  17th  century. 
Part  of  the  conspicuous  Church  of  8t.  Oeorge  dates  from  the  12th 
century.  The  choir  contains  a  huge  wooden  figure  of  Christ,  executed 
in  1488.  The  fine  candelabrum  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  the  modem 
stained  glass  also  deserve  attention.  Herr  Nessel  possesses  a  col- 
lection of  coins  and  antiquities  found  In  the  yldnity.  —  To  the  £. 
of  the  town  and  S.  of  the  Hagenauer  Wald  lie  the  artillery-ranges. 
-^  Railway  to  Saargemund,  Metz,  and  Saarbrucken,  see  p.  288. 

71  M.  Marienihal,  with  a  nunnery,  dissolved  in  1789 ;  73  M. 
BisehweileTj  with  cloth-manufactories.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Zom,  —  79  M.  Hordt, 

83  M.  Vendenheim,  junction  for  the  Sa&rburg-Zabern  line(R.  42). 
Then  several  unimportant  villages,  near  which  are  some  of  the 
new  outworks  of  Strassburg.  —  89  M.  Straashurg,  p.  279. 

37.    From  Mannheim  (LudwigsJiafen)  to  Neunkirchen 

(Saarbrucken), 

72  M.  Railway  (Pf&lzitche  Eisenbahn)  in  2s/44  hrs. ;  fares  9  m.  60, 
6  m.  30,  4  m.  10  pf.  (express  10  m.  80,  7  m.  60  pf.). 

The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  the  new  Railway  Bridge  (p.  254), 
which  affords  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  the  river,  to  (2  M.)  iMdwigs- 
hafen  (p.  264).   Thence  to  (21  M.)  Heuitadt,  see  p.  264. 

Neustadt  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Diirkhelm  (R.  35)  and  to 
Landau  (R.  36).  The  Saarbrucken  line  now  enters  the  mountain- 
district  of  the  Westrieh.  For  an  hour  the  train  winds  up  the  wooded 
ravine  of  the  Speyerbachj  and  penetrates  the  variegated  sandstone 
rocks  by  means  of  12  tunnels.  Beyond  Neustadt,  on  a  hill  to  the 
right,  stand  the  red  ruins  of  the  Wolfsburg. 

25  M.  Lambrecht-Orevenhausen  (*Klein),  two  villages  founded 
by  French  emigrants,  with  extensive  military  and  other  cloth-fac- 
tories. About  IV4  ^*  farther  on,  at  Frankeneck,  a  paper-making 
village,  the  valley  divides.  The  branch  to  the  left,  through  which 
flows  the  Speyerbach,  is  named  the  Elmsteiner-Thal;  that  to  the 
right  is  named  the  Frarikenateiner'Thal ,  and  is  watered  by  the 
Hochspeyerbach.    The  train  ascends  the  latter. 


KAISBRSLAUTERN.  37.  Route.     269 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  in  the  well>wooded  Blhstbxner- 
Thal.  About  41/2  M.  above  Frankeneck  are  the  ruins  of  Spangehberg 
(left)  and  Erfenttein  (right  \  refreshments  at  the  adjacent  forester's).  We 
next  pass  the  ruin  of  Breitenttem  and  reach  (3V2  H.)  Appenihal  and  (IV2  M.) 
Elmttein  (Schroer's  Inn),  whence  the  Etchkopf  (1870  ft.)  may  be  ascended 
in  2  hrs.  (guide  desirable). 

Farther  on,  on  a  height  to  the  right,  are  the  ruins  of  Neidenfels. 
30  M.  Weidenthal,  with  two  new  churches.  32  M.  FrankenBtein 
(^Kblschy  Haffen,  both  good),  one  of  the  most  picturesqne  points  in 
the  valley,  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  that  name.  On  the  other 
side  of  the  valley,  above  the  tunnel,  which  is  1487  yds.  in  length, 
is  another  fine  old  ruined  castle ;  to  the  right  is  the  rock  called 
the  Teufelsleiter  ('devil's  ladder').  In  a  secluded  valley  to  the  right 
lies  the  ruin  of  Diemerstein^  surronnded  with  pleasure-grounds. 

The  Drachenttein^  commanding  a  varied  and  extensive  view,  may  be 
ascended  from  St.  Lambrecht  (3  hrs.),  Weidenthal  (2  hrs.),  or  Franken- 
stein (2  hrs.).  About  1/2  hr.  below  the  summit  is  a  spring  named  the 
Sieff/riedthrunnen.  The  descent  may  be  made  through  Isenachthal  to 
Darkheim  (4  hrs.,  see  p.  263). 

35  M.  Hochspeyer  (S7  6  ft  J),  the  highest  station  on  the  line,  Ib 
the  junction  for  the  AUenzbahn  to  MUnster  am  Stein  and  Kreuznach 
(see  p.  157). 

4iy2M.  KBSuenl»atBTiL(*Schwan;  ZumKarUberg;  HdttlKraffl; 
Post),  one  of  the  chief  towns  in  the  Palatinate,  situated  in  the 
hilly  tract  of  the  Westrich,  with  31,452  inhab.,  and  considerable 
spinning  factories,  iron-works,  and  breweries,  was  once  a  residence 
of  Emp.  Frederick  Barbarossa ,  who  erected  a  magnificent  palace 
here  in  1153.  The  building  was  destroyed  during  the  Spanish  War  of 
Succession,  and  the  site  is  now  occupied  by  a  house  of  correction. 
The  Protestant  Church  with  its  three  towers  owes  its  foundation  to 
the  same  monarch,  but  in  its  present  form  belongs  wholly  to  the 
13th  and  14th  centuries ;  it  was  restored  recently.  The  FruehthalUf 
or  corn-hall,  and  the  Provincicd  Museum  are  large  and  handsome 
buildings.  The  Realschule  contains  a, Natural  History  Museum(fee), 
A  battle  was  fought  at  Kaiserslautern  in  1793  between  the  Prussians 
and  the  French. 

From  Kaisebsladtebn  to  Lautebeceen,  21  M.,  railway  in  2V4  hrs. 
(fares  1  m.  90,  1  m.  20  pf.)'  From  the  station  of  (5V2  M.)  LampertgrnUhle, 
a  diligence  plies  thrice  daily  in  1/2  hr.  to  (2V2  M.)  Otterberg,  with  a  Cister- 
cian abbey  founded  in  1134  and  now  suppressed.  The  abbey-church,  an 
imposing  structure  in  the  Transition  style,  was  probably  completed  in 
1226.  —  21  M.  Lautereckeny  a  small  town  at  the  junction  of  the  Lauier  and 
the  Olan.  Diligence  hence  once  daily  in  1/3  hr.  to  (3  M.  farther  up  the 
valley  of  the  Glan)  Offenbach  am  Olan  (Oerlach,  Schaun^  both  good),  the 
*Abbey-church  of  which  is  one  of  the  most  important  examples  of  the 
Transition  Style.  Of  the  original  edifice,  which  was  built  about  1170-90, 
only  the  choir,  the  transepts,  and  two  side-apses  like  chapels  now  remain ; 
most  of  the  nave  and  aisles  was  pulled  down  in  1810.  —  Diligence  twice 
daily  from  Lauterecken  to  (7  M  )  JfeitenTieim  (p.  158). 

Between  Kaiserslautern  and  Homburg  the  line  runs  near  the 
'Kaiserstrasse^  a  road  constructed  by  Napoleon,  and  skirts  the 
Landstuhler  Bruchj  an  extensive  moor  at  the  base  of  wooded  hills.  — « 
49  M.  Kindsbach. 


270     RouU37.  LANDSTUHL. 

51  M .  Luidttiilil  (*Eng€lj  in  the  town ;  Bwgard,  at  the  station), 
a  small  town  with  4000  inhah.,  was  once  a  seat  of  the  Sickingen 
family,  whose  castle,  with  its  huge  walls,  25  ft.  thick,  lies  in  ruins 
above  the  town.  Franz  von  Sickingen  was  besieged  here  by  the 
Electors  of  the  Palatinate  and  Treves  in  1523,  and  lost  his  life  by 
the  falling  of  a  beam.  His  remains  were  interred  in  a  vault  under 
the  church,  but  the  monument  erected  to  his  memory  was  destroyed 
by  the  French.  Another  has  recently  been  erected,  and  the  paths 
about  the  castle  have  been  repaired.  Keys  at  the  forester's.  The 
Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum  was  erected  in  1853.  Pleasant  walks 
may  be  taken  to  the  FUischhackers  Loch,  fhe  Kohlenberg  (with  a  bel- 
vedere), and  the  Bdrenloch,  all  of  which  maybe  visited  in  2^2-3  lirs. 

From  Landstdhl  to  Kuskl,  18  M.,  branch-railway  in  iy2-2  hrs.  (fares 

1  m.  60  pf.,  1  m.)-  The  line  intersects  the  Landstuhler  Brucn  (see  p.  269). 
3M.  Ratnstein;  41/2 M.  SMnteenden;  7M.  NUdermohr.  At(8V4M.)  Qlan-MUnch- 
weiler  the  attractive  valley  of  the  Okm  is  entered,  and  followed  via  Rehweilei\ 
Eisenbach-Mattenbach^  and  Theitbergtteffen  to  (15  M.)  AUenglan.  The  line 
then  turns  in  a  sharp  angle  towards  the  W.,  and  enters  the  Kuseler  Thai. 
Kusel  (Mainxer  Hof)y  a  busy  little  town  with  cloth  and  other  factories,  was 
hurned  down  hy  the  French  in  1794,  on  suspicion  of  being  concerned  in  a 
forgery  of  'assignats'.    In  the  neighbourhood  are  large  syenite  quarries. 

54V2  M.  Hauptstuhl;  57  M.  Bruchmiihlbach.  64  M.  Homburg 
(*Dummler),  a  small  town,  with  a  handsome  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
built  in  1840.  The  *Bergschloss  Homburg'  has  entirely  dis- 
appeared. The  castle  of  Carlsherg,  on  a  hill  1/2  ^^'  *o  t^ie  N.E., 
was  built  by  Duke  Charles  II.  of  Zweibriicken  in  1780,  and  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1793. 

Fbom  Homburq  to  Zweibbuckkn,  7M.,  railway  in  1/2  hr.  (fares  65  pf., 
45  pf.).  —  Near  (4  M.)  Schwarzenacker  is  the  former  convent  of  Wersch- 
weiler.  From  (5  M.)  EinSd  to  Saarbriicken  and  Saargemtlnd,  see  below. 
—  7  M.  Zweibriicken  (* Zwetbriicker  Hof;  Pfdlzer  Hof),  formerly  the  re- 
sidence of  the  Dukes  of  Zweihriicken,  and  known  to  the  literary  world 
as  the  place  where  the  Editionet  BiponUnae  of  classical  authors  were 
published.  It  is  now  a  town  of  10,665  inhab.,  and  contains  the  chief 
court  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate,  which  occupies  the  old  castle.  To  the 
left  of  the  E.  entrance  to  the  town  is  the  new  prison.  When  Charles  X. 
Gustavus  of  the  Zweibrucken  family  ascended  the  Swedish  throne,  the 
duchy  became  subject  to  Sweden,  which  it  continued  to  be  till  the  death 
of  Charles  XII.  in  1719.  The  Alexanderkii'che  contains  the  burial-vaults  of 
the  ducal  house.  The  new  Roman  CatJiolic  Church  is  a  handsome  building 
in  the  Gothic  style.  The  Oovernmeni  Stud  here  was  originally  founded 
by  the  old  Dukes  of  Zweibrucken.  —  To  Landau^  see  p.  276. 

Fbom  Zweibrucken  to  Saabbeucken,  21  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.  (fares 

2  m.,  1  m.  40  pf.).  IV4  M.  Eindd  (see  above)  ^  4V2  M.  Bierbaeh;  S'/a  M. 
Lautzkirchen ;  8»/a  M.  WUrzbach;  lO'/a  M.  Hassel,  14  M.  St.  Ingbert,  an 
industrial  town,  with  9800  inhab.,  on  the  Rohrbach.  I6V2  M.  Scheidt^ 
18  M.  BUehmisheim.  21  M.  SaarbrUcken^  see  p.  161. 

Fbom  Zweibbucken  to  Saabqemund,  23  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.  (fares, 
2  m.,  1  m.  30).  To  (4V2  M.)  Bierbaeh,  see  above.  6  M.  BUetkattel;  8  M. 
BlicktoeUer;  9  M.  Breit/urt;  IIV2  M.  Blietdahlheim-Berbitzheim;  13V2  M. 
Gersheim-Walsheim;  15  M.  Reinheim;  16  M.  BUesbrUckeny  also  a  station  on 
the  line  from  Hagenau  to  Saargemiind  (p.  289) ;  20  M.  Folperatoeiler.  23.  M. 
SaargemOnd,  see  p.  289. 

Beyond  (68  M.)  Bexbach  the  line  enters  a  productive  coal-district 
in  the  Prussian  dominions.  691/2 M.  Wellesweiler.  72  M.  Neunhirchen 
'p.  161). 


ion), 

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II  M#^fe£i#^ 


^GgniicTii'hiliiii 


271 

38..  From  Mannheim  to  Speyer,  and  to  Strassbnrg 
vi&  Germersheim  and  Lanterborg. 

82  M.  Railway  in  4-4V«  lirs.;  fares  10  m.  70,  7  m.  10,  4  m.  60  pf.  (to 
Sjpeyei'y  14  M.,  in  V2-*/4  ^r.  ^  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20,  75  pf.).  This  line,  opened  in 
1876,  tkffords  the  shortest  route  between  Frankfort  on  the  Main  and  Strass- 
burg  («zpre88<train  in  4V*  hrs.)*  —  From  SchwBixingen  (Heidelberg)  to 
Speyer,  see  p.  251. 

From  Ludwigshafen  (^Siannheimj  p.  254)  to  (71/2  M.)  Schiffer- 
stadtj  see  p.  264.  The  line  to  Speyer  diverges  here  to  the  left  from 
the  Landan  line  (R.  36). 

14  M.  Speyer.  —  Omnibus  into  the  town,  30 pf.  —The  principal  station 
(PI.  A,  1),  is  about  V4  ^-  fi'om  the  cathedral,  to  which  the  road  leads  in 
a  straight  direction^  the  Rhenish  station  of  the  Schwetzingen  line  (Fl.  E,  8) 
is  only  Vi  ^-  f'^m  the  cathedral. 

Hotels.  *Rheini8CHee  Hop  (PI.  b  5  B,  3),  Maximilians-Str.,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  3,  B.  1  m;  WiTTKLSBAOHEE  HoF  (PI.  a^  CJ,  4),  Ludwigs-Str.,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  2,  B.  1,  omn.  »/«  m. ;  *Pfalzbk  Hop  (PI.  c  5  C,  3),  Maximilians-Strasse. 

Reataurant.  Deutsche  opposite  the  station.  —  Beer  at  Schvltz'i  and  at 
Behwarz*s^  both  in  the  Klippelthor-Str.  —  Wine  at  &c*'<,  Konigs-Platz.  — 
Cafe  Naet^  Maximilians-Str.*,  Cafe  Mooe^  Konigs-Platz. 

Speyer,  or  Spires  (325  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate 
and  the  seat  of  government,  with  16,228  Inhab.  (^/^  Prot.),  lies  near 
the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of  the  Speyerbach. 

Speyer  was  the  Roman  Augusta  Nemetum,  boQame  an  episcopal  see  in 
the  4th  cent.,  and  was  frequenUy  the  residence  of  the  German  emperors. 
The  city  prospered  greatly  under  the  Salic  kings,  who  repeatedly  granted 
privileges  to  the  loyal  inhabitants,  embellished  the  old  palace,  and  built 
the  celebrated  cathedral,  which  was  regarded  as  the  burial-church  of  the 
German  emperors  for  nearly  five  centuries.  As  a  free  city  of  the  empire 
Speyer  enjoyed  a  high  reputation.  Of  the  numerous  imperial  diets  held 
here  the  most  important  was  that  of  1529,  under  Charles  V.,  after  which 
the  princes  and  estates  who  had  espoused  the  cause  of  the  Reformation 
received  the  name  of  Protestante,  from  their  protest  against  the  resolution 
of  the  hostile  majority.  The  city  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689, 
and  has  only  recently  begun  to  prosper  again. 

The  '*'*Catliedral  (PI.  D,  3),  the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is 
open  9-11  a.m.,  and  2-6  p.m. ;  admission  to  the  choir  and  crypt  by 
tickets  only  (35  pf.),  obtained  from  the  sacristan.  The  old-German 
altar-piece  and  the  cartoons  in  the  Ohapel  of  St.  Catharine  are 
shown  for  a  fee  of  1  m.  and  35  pf.  respectively. 

The  cathedral  was  founded  in  1030  by  Conrad  II.  (d.  1039) 
as  a  burial-place  for  himself  and  his  successors ,  and  continued  by 
his  son  Henry  ni.  (d.  1056)  and  his  grandson  Henry  IV.  (d.  1106), 
all  of  whom  found  a  resting-place  within  its  precincts.  The  remains 
of  Henry  rv.,  who  had  been  excommunicated  by  Pope  Gregory  VII., 
were  not  deposited  here  till  five  years  after  his  death,  during  which 
period  his  body  remained  unburied  in  the  Chap6l  of  St.  Afra,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  cathedral,  which  he  himself  had  erected.  His  son 
Henry  V.  (d,  1125),  the  last  of  the  Salic  imperial  family,  is  also 
interred  here ,  as  well  as  Philip  of  Swabia  (d.  1208) ,  Rudolph  of 
Hapsburg  (d.  1291) ,  Adolph  of  Nassau  (d.  1298),  and  Albert  I.  of 
Austria  (d.  1308),  by  whose  hand  Adolph  fell  at  Gollheim  (p.  261). 


272    Route  38. 


SPEYER. 


From  Mannheim 


After  the  murder  of  Albert  I.,  the  Emp.  Henry  VII.  caused  the 
remains  of  the  rival  monarchs  to  be  deposited  in  the  same  vault. 
Here,  too,  repose  Qisela,  the  pious  consort  of  Conrad  H.,  Bertha, 

queen  of  Henry  IV.,  and 
Beatrice,  wife  of  Barbarossa, 
with  her  daughter  Agnes. 

The  cathedral  was  much 
injured  by  flre  in  1450,  but 
was  soon  restored.  On  31st 
May ,  1689 ,  the  town  and 
the  cathedral  were  ravaged 
with  flre  and  sword  by  the 
hirelings  of  *his  most  Chris- 
tian majesty'  Louis  XIV., 
under  Louvois,  Montclar, 
and  Mtflac.  The  tombs  of  the 
emperors  were  ransacked, 
the  town  was  committed  to 
the  flames  and  completely 
destroyed,  and  other  atro- 
cities were  committed.  The 
desecration  of  the  imperial 
monuments  was  repeated  in 
1693  by  order  of  the  French 
Intendant  Henx,  By  a  sin- 
gular coincidence,  on  the 
same  day,  exactly  100  years 
later,  the  spoliation  of  the 
tombs  of  the  French  kings  at 
St.  Denis  was  perpetrated 
under  the  direction  of  one 
Hent%  f  a  representative  of 
the  people.  The  church  was  subjected  to  devastation  for  the  third 
time  on  10th-20th  Jan.,  1794,  and  was  converted  into  a  magazine. 
It  was  not  till  1822  that  it  was  at  length  restored  to  its  sacred  pur- 
poses. The  interior  was  decorated  by  order  of  Lewis  I. ,  King  of 
Bavaria,  in  1845-53 ;  and  the  re-erection  of  the  W.  fagade,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Hubschj  took  place  in  1854-58. 

The  church  is  a  simple,  but  vast  and  imposing  Romanesque 
basilica.  Length  147  yds.,  length  of  transept  60  yds.,  breadth  of 
nave  15  yds.,  height  of  nave  105  ft.,  height  of  W.  towers  240  ft. 
The  nave  seems  to  have  been  originally  covered  with  a  flat  wooden 
roof,  for  which  the  present  vaulting  was  afterwards  substituted. 

The  Facade  has  three  portals.  Over  the  central  one  is  the 
imperial  double  -  eagle ,  over  the  side  -  entrances  the  lion  of  the 
Palatinate,  The  large  rose -window  in  front  has  a  head  of  the 
Saviour  crowned  with  thorns  in  the  centre,  on  a  gold  ground ,  and 


to  Straashurg.  SPEYEB.  3.9.  Route.     273 

in  the  corners  the  emblems  of  the  Evangelists.  The  handsome  arcade 
at  the  top  runs  round  the  whole  building.  (The  visitor  should  vralk 
round  this  arcade  and  ascend  the  tower;  sacristan  75  pf.) 

In  the  Kaiaer-HalUy  or  entrance-hall,  are  niches  of  gilded  mosaic, 
in  which  sandstone  statues  of  the  emperors  interred  in  the  Kings' 
Choir,  by  Dietrich  and  Femkornj  were  placed  in  1858. 

The  four  reliefs  are  by  Pilz:  Conrad  laying  the  foundation  of  the 
cathedral;  Rudolph  and  the  priest  with  the  host;  Rudolph  receiving  the 
tidings  of  his  election  to  the  throne;  the  same  emperor  taking  the  cross 
from  the  altar  in  default  of  a  sceptre  at  his  coronation  at  Aix-la-Chapelle. 
Over  the  principal  inner  portal  is  represented  the  dedication  of  the  church 
to  the  Virgin,  on  the  left  St.  Bernard  and  St.  Stephen,  on  the  right  John 
the  Baptist  and  the  painter  Schraudolph. 

The  *Intbrioii  is  adorned  with  *Frbscob8  by  Schraudolph,  32 
in  number,  which  owe  their  origin  to  the  artistic  taste  of  Lewis  I. 
and  Max  II.,  kings  of  Bavaria,  and  are  among  the  finest  specimens 
of  modern  German  art.  They  were  executed  by  Joh,  8chraudol/ph 
(b.  1808),  assisted  by  C.  Schraudolph  and  others,  in  1845-53; 
decorations  by  Jos,  Schwarzmann. 

Nave.  N.  Wall:  1.  Adam  and  Eve;  2.  Abraham's  promise ;  3.  David's 
vision:  4.  Birth  of  the  Virgin;  6.  Her  betrothal;  6.  Visitation;  7.  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi;  8.  Circumcision;  9.  Mary  finds  Jesus  in  the  Temple;  10. 
Joseph's  death;  il.  Jesus  teaching;  12.  The  risen  Saviour.  JS.  Wall:  1. 
Noah's  thank-offering ;  2.  The  burning  bush ;  3.  Prophesying  of  Isaiah ;  4. 
Mary's  sacrifice;  5.  Salutation;  6.  Nativity;  7.  Simeon's  prophecy;  8. 
Flight  to  Egypt ;  9.  Jesus  at  Nazareth ;  10.  Marriage  at  Cana ;  11.  Cruci- 
fixion; 12.  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost.— On  the  Dome:  the  Lamb,  Abel, 
Abraham,  Melchisedeeh,  the  Manna,  Isaiah,  Jeremiah,  Ezekiel,  Daniel, 
and  the  Evangelists.  —  S.  Side  -  Cuois :  Stoning  of  Stephen ;  above  it, 
Stephen  before  the  council  i  (1.)  Consecration  of  the  deacons,  and  Beheading 
of  St.  Stephen,  a  martyred  pope ;  on  the  wall  at  the  back,  Prayer  of  the 
same  saint.  —  N.  Sidb-Choik  :  Vision  of  St.  Bernard ;  above  it.  Arrival  of 
St.  Bernard  at  Speyer  (1147);  on  the  right,  his  Prayer  at  the  altar,  and  under 
it,  Presentation  of  the  banner  of  the  Cross;  on  the  back  part  of  the  wall. 
Miraculous  cure  of  a  boy.  Departure  of  the  saint.  —  Collegiate  Choir  : 
Mary  and  John ;  Death  or  Mary ;  her  Interment ,  Assumption ,  Coronation. 
The  spaces  between  these,  the  cross  vaultings,  and  the  chapels  are  adorned 
with  paintings  of  saints. 

In  the  Kings'  Choib,  on  broad  pedestals,  are  two  large  *Statues : 
right,  Rudolph  of  Uapsburg  (d,  1291),  in  Tyrolese  marble,  by 
Schwanthaler,  in  a  sitting  posture ;  left,  the  Emp.  Ado(p/i  o/'iVasaau 
(p.  261),  in  sandstone,  by  Ohnmacht,  in  a  kneeling  position.  On 
the  right  and  left  of  the  passage  of  the  principal  choir  two  Reliefs, 
formerly  in  the  vaults ,  are  built  into  the  walls ,  each  containing 
likenesses  of  four  emperors  and  bearing  ancient  inscriptions. 

The  Chapbl  op  St.  Apra  was  built  in  1097-1103,  but  was  after- 
wards altered.  —  The  Baptistery,  in  the  S.  aisle,  dates  from  the 
jl2th  century.  Above  it  (entrance  from  the  S.  transept)  is  the  Chapbl 
OP  St.  Catharine,  originally  dating  from  the  13th  cent,  but  almost 
entirely  rebuilt  in  1857 ;  it  contains  the  cartoons  for  Schraudolph's 
frescoes  and  an  early-German  altar-piece  (adm.,  see  p.  271). 

The  Crypt  beneath  the  choir  and  the  transept,  restored  in 
1857,  is  architecturally  interesting.    It  belongs  in  its  entirety  to 

Baedekrr*s  Rhine.     10th  Edit.  \  8 


274    Route  38.  SPEYER.  From  Mannheim 

the  old  building,  consecrated  in  1039,  and  contains  the  ancient 
tombstone  of  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg,  restored  in  1858. 

The  ancient  Churchyard  (PI.  D,  3)  is  now  a  promenade.  Op- 
j>osite  the  N.E.  comer  of  the  church  is  the  Domnapf^  or  cathedral- 
bowl  ,  a  large  vessel  of  sandstone ,  once  marking  the  boundary  be- 
tween the  episcopal  and  civic  jurisdiction.  Every  new  bishop  was 
obliged ,  after  binding  himself  to  respect  the  liberties  of  the  town, 
to  fill  the  Napf  with  wine ,  which  was  then  drunk  to  his  health  by 
the  townspeople.  The  fragments  of  the  ^ Mount  of  Olives',  to  the  S. 
of  the  cathedral,  constructed  in  1511 ,  are  the  sole  remains  of  the 
cloisters,  which  were  built  in  1437-44  and  destroyed  at  the  end  of 
the  18th  century.  At  the  back  of  the  cathedral  are  a  large  Fountain j 
a  Statue  of  Fortune  and  busts  of  Schvoerd ,  the  astronomer ,  and 
Sttngel^  the  maker  of  the  promenade.  —  From  among  the  trees  to 
the  £.  of  the  choir  rises  the  Heidenihurmchen  (Heathens'  Tower; 
PL  £,  3),  the  substructure  of  which  is  supposed  to  be  of  Roman 
origin.  It  probably  belonged  to  the  town- wall  built  in  1080  by 
Bishop  Rudger. 

The  devastations  of  the  French  have  left  few  notable  buildings 
of  antiquity  at  Speyer.  A  mouldering  wall  by  the  Protestant  church 
preserves  the  name  of  the  ancient  Betscher  (PI.  q;  0,  D,  3),  an  im- 
perial palace  where  the  diets  were  held.  The  line  old  gate-tower, 
at  the  W.  end  of  the  Maximilians-Strasse,  is  named  the  Altporiel 
(PI.  B,  3).  —  Funds  are  at  present  being  collected  to  build  a  Protest- 
ant Church  on  a  neighbouring  site. 

The  Xuseum  (PI.  8 ;  B,  ^),  in  the  Bealgymnasium ,  contains 
trophies  of  the  war  of  1870-71,  a  cabinet  of  natural  history,  a  few 
pictures ,  and  an  important  *Gollectiou  of  Antiquities.  Admission 
on  Sun.,  1-3,  gratis;  at  other  times  for  a  fee. 

Room  I.  Extensive  collection  of  'sigillata^  and  other  vessels,  chiefly 
from  Bheinzabern  \  fine  glass  vessels ;  statue  of  Apollo ;  weight  in  the  form 
of  a  Faun's  head^  late-Roman  medallion  with  the  rape  of  Ganymede  | 
eagle  of  the  Fourth  Legion ,  of  doubtful  authenticity  \  magnificent  horse- 
trappings  in  bronze,  from  Geinsheim;  Roman  bronze  cooking  utensils.  — 
R.  II.  Collection  of  cut  stones ;  reproductions  of  antiques  ^  maps ,  plans, 
representations  of  towns  of  the  Palatinate  etc.  —  R.  III.  Prehistoric,  Ale* 
mannian,  and  Franeonian  antiquities^  Roman  antiquities  (two  chariot- 
wheels  of  bronze,  found  at  Hasloch);  Etruscan  antiquities  (Etruscan  bronze 
tripod  and  golden  ornaments  from  DiLrkheim;  painted  vases,  etc.,  from 
Rodenbach);  golden  buckle  from  Bobl;  bronze  rings  from  Leimersheim. 
—  R.  IV.  Hedieeval  objects^  HSS.;  imperial  documents;  specimens  from 
the  first  printing-press  at  Speyer;  coins;  tapestry.  —  B.  V.  Model  of  the 
large  Protestant  church  designed  to  commemorate  the  Diet  of  1529,  and 
sketches  of  the  historically-interesting  edifices  of  the  Palatinate.  — -  R.  VI. 
Pottery  and  casts ^  weapons;  banners. 

GxouMD  Floob.  Roman  monuments  in  stone.  Sarcophagus  with  a 
relief  of  Marsyas,  Apollo,  and  Minerva;  another,  with  reliefs  of  Hercules 
carrying  off  Cerberus  and  conquering  the  Kemean  lion.  Altars  with  reliefs, 
one  representing  Diana,  Mercury,  and  Maia. 

From  Speyer  the  railway  proceeds  past  Berghausen ,  HeiUgen- 
stein,  and  Lingenfeld  to  (23  M.)  Oermersheim  (Elephant;  8alm)t 


to  Strassburg.  SESENHEIM.  33,  Route,     275 

an  old  town  at  the  eonfluenee  of  the  Queieh  (p.  266)  and  the  Rhine, 
fortified  since  1835.    Rndolph  of  Hapsbnrg  died  here  in  1291. 

Fbom  Obbmcbshbim  to  Lamtdait,  13  M.,  railway  in  */4  hr.  (1  m.  70, 
1  m.  15,  75  pf.).  BUiiona,  Wetthtim,  Lu9tadi,  Zmkam^  Sochstadly  and  Drei- 
ho/.    Landau,  see  p.  266.  —  To  Bruchsal,  see  p.  323. 

26  M.  Sondemkeimi  291/2  M.  Bellhtim;  Slt/g  M.  RuLzheim; 
341/2  M.  Rheinzaberrif  on  the  Erlenbach ;  38  M.  Jockgrim. 

391/2  M.  Worth ,  the  junction  of  the  Carlsruhe  -  Landau  line 
(p.  331).  42V2  M.  Hagenbach;  44  M.  Neuburg,-  46  M.  Berg,  The 
train  then  crosses  the  Lauterf  which  forms  the  boundary  between 
the  Bavarian  Palatinate  and  Alsace. 

47  m.  Lauterbnrg  ('£{ume^  was  once  fortified,  and  is  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  annals  of  the  old  wars  between  the  French  and 
Germans.  The  Rathhaus  contains  a  Roman  altar.  — 49  M.  Mothem; 
53  M.  SelZj  with  a  Gothic  chapel.    58  M.  Roeschwoog. 

62  M.  Sesenlieim  or  Setaenkeim  (Anker),  the  scene  of  Goethe's 
intimacy  with  Frederica  Brion  (1770-71).  The  church  and  parsonage 
have  since  been  rebuilt.  The  wooded  hill  with  the  arbour  in  which 
Goethe  and  Frederica  used  to  •  converse  has  been  purchased  by  a 
number  of  the  poet's  admirers,  and  the  arbour  has  been  renewed. 
—  About  11/2  M.  to  the  W.  lies  Sufflenheim  (Krone),  whence  an 
omnibus  plies  several  times  daily  to  (7  M.)  Bisch waller  (p.  268). 

65  M.  Drusenheim;  68  M.  Herlisheim,  on  the  Zom;  70 1/2  M. 
Oambsheim,  with  an  old  chapel ;  74  M.  Wanzenau,  with  Fort  Fran- 
secky;  79  M.  Bischheim.   82  M.  Strassburg,  p.  279. 

89.  From  Landau  to  Zweibrucken.    The  Vosges  of 
the  Palatinate. 

The  picturesque  mountainous  district  to  tbe  S.  of  the  (^eich,  which 
belongs  to  the  Wasoau,  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  may  be  explored 
in  2-3  days.  Ist  Day:  Railway  to  Siebeldingen ,  walk  to  Eschbaeh,  the 
Madenburg,  and  the  Trifdi,  and  either  walk  thence  to  Annw9iltr,  take 
the  train  to  WUgarttunesen  ^  and  continue  on  foot  to  the  Lindelbrunner 
Porsthaut  and  Schloss:  or  walk  direct  from  Trifels  to  Lindelbrunn,  via 
the  Rehberff,  about  6  hrs.  in  all.  —  2nd  Day:  Walk  to  Schdnau,  vift 
Vorderweidenthaly  the  DrachenfeU,  Schlots  Dahn,  and  Rvmbaehy  6  hrs.  — 
3rd  Day :  On  foot  to  the  WegeHmrg  and  the  Bohenburg  and  on  to  Fleckers 
stein,  proceeding  thence  either  via  BirtcMhaly  Schdnau^  and  the  Wasigen- 
stein  to  Niederhronn  (7  hrs.),  or  vii  Lembach  to  Weitenburg  (6  hrs.)  or 
worth  (5Vs  hrs.). 

The  Railway  fbom  Lavi>au  to  ZwbibbOckbit,  completed  in 
1876  (45  M.  in  2-23/4  hrs. ;  faxes,  2nd  cl.  3  m.  80,  3rd  cl.  2  m. 
46  pf.,  express^aies  1st  el.  6  m.  50,  2nd  cl.  4ni.  60  pf.),  greatly 
facilitates  a  visit  to  the  S.  Palatinate.  —  Leaving  the  pxinclpal  station 
at  Landau ,  the  train  stops  again  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town ,  and 
then  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Qucichy  which  soon  contracts.  The 
Quaich  is  crossed  several  times.  —  3^/4  M.  Oodramsiein,  From 
(6  M.)  8M>eldingen  (Adler)  a  road  leads  via  BirkweiUr^  Banabacht 
and  LeinmveUer  to  (3^^  M.)  Esehbaoh^  at  the  foot  of  the  Madenhurg 
(p.  277).    674  M.  Albenweiler.    The  village  of  Eusaerthal,  about 

18* 


276    RouU39.  ANNWEILER. 

3^2^*  ^  ^^^  N.W.,  contftins  &  Romanesque  church  dating  from 
the  middle  of  the  13th  cent.,  a  relic  of  a  former  Cistercian  eon-» 
vent.  —  972  M.  Annweilefj  see  below;  the  station  lies  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Queich,  the  town  on  the  right.  The  narrow  green  valley 
of  the  Queich,  at  this  point  known  as  the  ^Annweiler  ThaV,  is  en- 
closed by  wooded  hills ,  from  which  the  variegated  sandstone  pro- 
trudes in  picturesque  and  fantastic  forms.  —  12  M.  Rinnthali 
141/2  M.  Wilgariswiesen,  with  a  handsome  church  by  Volt 

Wilgartswiesen  makes  a  good  centre  for  excursions  in  the  Vosges  of 
the  Palatinate.  —  To  Schloss  Dahn:  about  1/2  M.  from  the  village,  we 
diverge  from  the  road  to  the  right,  and  follow  the  course  of  the  stream. 
At  0/2  hr.)  Hauenstein  we  cross  the  brook  and  proceed  along  a  sandy  path 
on  the  other  side.  In  i/g  hr.  more  a  pine-wood  is  reached,  through  which 
we  ascend  a  somewhat  steep  incline  to  (i/s  hr.)  a  chapel,  beyond  which 
we  descend;  20  min.  ErfweUtr;  Vs  ^*  more  SchlosA  Dahn  (p.  278).  — 
To  the  Lindelbrunner  Schloss:  we  take  the  road  by  apirielhach  and 
aehwanheim  to  Darstein^  and  then  skirting  the  cliffs  of  Darstein  on  the 
S.,  follow  the  path  leading  from  Gosserswciler  to  the  Lindelbrunner  Forst- 
haus  (p.  278). 

17  M.  Bauenstein;  21  M.  Hinterwcidenihal  (diligence  thrice 
daily  to  Dahn ;  5  M.,  p.  278) ;  24  M.  MunchweiUr,  —  The  line  now 
crosses  the  watershed  between  the  tributaries  of  the  Rhine  and  of 
the  Nahe.  —  28  M.  Rodalben;  30  M.  Biebermiihle,  where  a  branch- 
line  diverges  to  Pirmasenz  (Greiner).  Pirmasenz  is  an  industrial 
town  with  13,000  inhab.,  and  is  named  after  St.  Pirmin,  who 
preached  here  in  the  8th  century.  From  1764  to  1790  the  landgrave 
Ludwig  IX.  of  Darmstadt  had  his  residence  in  the  town ,  which 
passed  to  Bavaria  in  1815.  The  JProtestant  church  contains  the 
landgrave's  monument.  —  Several  unimportant  stations.  45  M. 
Zweihrucken^  see  p.  270. 

Annweiler  (590  ft. ;  Vblcker^  at  the  station ,  *pens.'  5  m.; 
Sehwan^  unpretending,  with  beer- garden,  both  these  well  spoken 
of;  Feldwebel  Restaurant  J  at  the  station)  is  a  small  and  ancient 
town  of  3000  inhab.,  with  a  Kathhaus  by  Voit,  built  in  1844.  The 
KrappenfelSy  Buchholzfels,  Wetterberg ,  and  other  fine  points  in  the 
neighbourhood,  have  lately  been  made  easily  accessible  by  means 
of  footpaths  and  finger-posts. 

From  the  E.  entrance  of  Annweiler  (in  the  direction  of  Landau) 
a  road,  diverging  to  the  S.  from  the  high-road,  ascends  towards 
the  village  of  Bindersbach,  and  from  it  a  footpath  ascends  to  the  left 
through  wood,  dividing  into  two  branches,  both  of  which  lead  to  the 
Trifels  in  1  hi.  (descent  V2  tr.).  The  ancient  imperial  fortress  of 
*TrifelB  (1516  ft. ;  Refreshments)  was  founded  as  early  as  the  10th 
cent. ,  but  the  present  scanty  ruins  date  from  about  the  middle  of 
the  12th  century.  Trifels  was  not  unfrequently  occupied  by  the 
German  emperors.  Its  walls  protected  the  unhappy  Henry  IV., 
when  excommunicated  by  Pope  Gregory  VII.  in  1076,  and  deserted 
by  his  nobles.  It  also  served  as  a  prison  for  Adalbert,  Archbishop 
of  Mayence ,  who  was  confined  here  by  Henry  V.,  but  released  by 
^he  citizens  of  Mayence.  It  was  here  that  Richard  Cosur  de  Lion  is 


MADENBURG.  39.  Route,     277 

said  to  have  been  confined  for  more  than  a  year  by  the  Emp. 
Henry  VI.,  until  his  liberation  was  effected  by  the  faithful  Blondel. 
After  the  Thirty  Years'  War  the  castle  fell  to  decay,  and  nothing  is 
now  left  but  the  recently-restored  tower  (32  ft.")  and  fragments  of 
the  walls.  On  the  remoyal  of  part  of  these  in  1880  the  old  castle 
well  was  discovered  in  the  rock,  at  a  depth  of  270  ft.  The  •  View 
resembles  that  from  the  Madenburg  (see  below) ,  but  is  less  exten- 
sive towards  the  E. 

Fbom  Tbivkls  to  tbk  Lindslbruniibb  ScflLOBS.  We  follow  the  path  to 
the  Haaenburg  (see  below)  as  far  as  (Vs  hr.)  the  saddle  uniting  the  Scharfen- 
berp  with  the  Rehberg  (see  below) ,  and  then  skirt  the  depression  by  a 
shady  path  leading  at  a  uniform  elevation  to  (%  mln.)  a  stone  cross  on 
the  saddle  to  the  K.  of  the  Rehberg.  From  the  cross  we  gradually  descend 
to  the  left  till  we  reach  (20  min.)  the  high-road  leading  from  Annweiler 
to  VGlkerstceiler  and  Qoszerzweiler  (see  below).  From  the  latter  a  bye-road 
leads  to  the  Undelbrunner  Forsthaus  and  the  Lindelbrttnner  ScMost  (see 
below). 

The  hill  occupied  by  the  Trifels  is  the  northernmost  eminence 
of  a  range  1  M.  in  length ,  the  other  two  summits  of  which  bear 
the  rains  of  Anebos  and  Scharfenherg ,  the  latter ,  with  its  square 
tower  66  ft.  in  height,  being  usually  known  as  the  Miins.  A  pleas- 
ant path,  provided  with  several  Anger-posts,  akirts  the  S.W.  slope 
of  this  range,  passing  these  ruins.  Farther  on  it  descends,  but  after- 
wards again  ascends,  leading  through  fragrant  woods  of  beech  and 
pine.  The  traveller  should  observe  that  he  must  go  round  the 
Wetterberg  to  the  right.  In  I72  hr.  we  reach  the  *]Cadenbnrg 
(Mctidenbivrg ,  Marieniraut ,  locally  Esehbaeher  Sehloas  ;  1522  ft. ; 
Refmtfl.),  situated  above  the  village  of  Eschbach  to  the  S.,  the 
grandest  ruin  in  the  Rhenish  Palatinate,  formerly  belonging  to  the 
counts  of  Leiningen ,  afterwards  to  the  bishopric  of  Speyer ,  and 
burned  down  by  the  French  general  Montclar  in  1689. 

The  *View  from  the  Madenburg  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  exten- 
sive in  the  Palatinate,  comprising  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  from  Strassburg 
to  the  Melibocus,  and  the  heights  of  the  Odenwald  and  Black  Forest  in 
the  distance.  The  spire  of  Strassburg,  and  the  towers  of  Garlsruhe, 
Speyer,  Mannheim,  and  Worms,  are  all  visible.  A  peculiar  attraction  is 
the  view  of  the  a^acent  Vosges,  with  their  numerous  volcanic  and  forest- 
clad  peaks,  from  many  of  which  protrude  bald  and  grotesquely-formed 
masses  of  variegated  sandstone.  —  From  the  Madenburg  to  Eschbach^ 
IV4  M.;  to  Siebeldfngen  (p.  2^),  4Vt  M. ;  to  Landau  (p.  266),  vi&  Wollmei- 
heim^  5  M. 

The  tower  on  the  *B6liberg  (1790  ft.),  1 V2  ^^'  to  the  S.  of  Ann- 
weiler, is  another  fine  point  of  view.  The  path  to  it  diverges  from 
the  road  to  the  left  opposite  the  Trifels'  inn.  View  of  the  plain 
less  extensive  than  from  the  Madenburg,  that  of  the  mountains 
more  imposing.  Beside  the  spring,  about  ^4  hr.  from  the  summit, 
there  is  a  pretty  glimpse  through  the  foliage. 

About  41/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Rehberg  and  71/2  M.  from 
Annweiler  (whence  it  is  reached  via  the  high-road  to  VolkersweiUr 
and  OossersweiUr^  and  thence  by  a  path  through  the  iields)  lies  the 
*Lindelbrunner  Schloss  (1446  ft.),  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Counts  of  Leiningen.    The  Isolated  hill  on  which  it  stands  afford 


278    BOUU39.  PAHN. 

an  admirable  surrey  of  the  curious  rock-formations  of  the  Wasgau. 
At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Lindelbrwnner  For$ihau8  (refreshm., 
also  beds).   From  Lindelbrunn  to  Trifels,  see  aboye. 

About  2  M.  from  the  Lindelbrunner  Forsthans  lies  Vorder' 
weidenthal  (Refreshments  at  the  burgomaster's),  and  1  M.  farther  on 
is  Erlenbaehy  under  the  shadow  of  the  rained  castle  of  BarheUUin. 
At  the  latter  village  we  join  the  high-road  from  Bergzabern  (p.  266, 
diligence  from  Bergzabern  to  Dahn  daily,  16  M.  in  3^3  hrs.)  which 
we  follow  until  we  reach  a  finger-post  on  the  left  indicating  the 
path  to  (21/4  M.)  the  picturesque  DrachenfeU,  which  commands  a 
fine  view  of  Schloss  Dahn  (see  below)  and  the  castellated  rocks  of 
this  district.  From  the  Drachenfels  we  descend  in  ^2  ^f>  ^  the 
Lauterthal,  and  ascend  it  to  (IV2  ^0  the  little  town  of  Dahn  (Inn 
kept  by  the  burgomaster ;  Pfeffer's  Inn],  whence  a  diligence  plies 
thrice  daily  to  (5  M.)  the  railway-station  of  Hinterweidenthal 
(p.  276).  [From  the  crossing  of  the  roads  In  the  Lauterthal,  the 
route  to  the  right  leads  past  the  Fitchwager  Muhle  to  (1  Y2^0  Schloss 
Dahn.] 

On  a  wooded  rock,  IVs  ^'  ^  ^^^  ^*  ^^  Dahn,  rise  the  ruins 
of  *8ohIOM  Dahn,  also  locally  called  the  'Erfweiler  Schloss'.  The 
steps  and  passages  are  partly  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The  top 
commands  a  striking  view  of  the  imposing  and  grotesque  sandstone 
rocks  around. 

From  Schloss  Dahn  we  return  in  about  i/j  hr.  to  the  above- 
mentioned  crossing  of  the  roads ,  and  descend  the  Lauterthal  to 
(I3/4  M.)  BruchvoeiUr,  On  the  left  is  the  grotesque  cliff  known  as 
the  FladeruUin,  One  mile  beyond  Bruchweiler  the  Lauterthal  is 
quitted  by  a  road  to  the  right  to  (1  M.)  BumbcKh  (Kern's  Brauerei ; 
Gruner  Baum),  traversing  the  picturesque  valley  of  that  name,  and 
(33/4  M.)  Schonau  (♦Lowe,  rustic),  a  village  on  the  Sauer,  with 
deserted  iron -works.  From  Rumbaoh  we  follow  the  new  road  to 
Nothweiler  (see  below)  and  take  a  path  to  the  right  at  a  finger-post, 
which  leads  to  the  (1/4  hr.)  Wegelburg.  (Or  we  may  reach  the  Wegel- 
burg  from  Schonau  in  1  hr.)    Finger-posts  at  all  doubtful  points. 

The  *Wegelburg  (1880  ft.),  a  hill  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 
a  castle  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1679,  is  the  finest  point  in  the 
Vosges  of  the  Palatinate.  The  view  embraces  the  whole  of  the  Vosges 
Mts.  and  extends  to  the  Black  Forest  and  the  Odenwald.  At  the 
top  is  a  mountain-indicator. 

Those  who  extend  their  walk  to  the  E.  of  the  Wegelburg  descend  to 
(40  min.)  Nothweiler  (Inn,  poor)  and  then  proceed  by  (3  M.)  IfiederschleUen- 
bach^  with  the  ruined  Gothic  church  of  8t.  Anna,  to  (2  M.)  Erlenbach,  — 
From  Niederschlettenbach,  a  road  descends  the  valley  of  the  Laater  to 
(6  M.)  Weissenburff. 

The  frontier  of  Alsace  runs  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  S.  of 
the  Wegelburg.  Just  beyond  it  and  across  a  ridge  on  which  is  a 
memorial  tablet  to  Emperor  "William  and  a  well,  about  ^/^  M.  from 
the  Wegelburg,  is  the  Hokenhurg^  the  ancestral  castle  of  the  mother 


STR4.SSBUR0,  40.R0UU.    279 

of  Frauz  yon  Sickingen,  into  ^iiose  own  possession  it  afterwards 
passed.  It  is  built  of  skilfully-hewn  square  blocks  of  stone,  and 
commands  a  view  similar  to  that  enjoyed  from  the  Wegelburg.  We 
return  to  the  ridge  and  descending  to  the  left  by  a  flnger-post  pro- 
ceed by  the  FUekensteiner  Hof  and  the  ^Fleckensiein,  another  rocky 
fastness  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Sauerthal.  Hence  we  descend 
in  20  min.  to  the  Sauerihal  (Rossle,  unpretending),  3  M.  farther 
on.  Diligence  from  Lembacb  to  Worth  (p.  267)  in  2V2  lirs. ;  to 
8ul%  unterm  Wald  (p.  267)  In  28/4  to. ;  and  to  Wemenburg  (p.  266) 
in  3  hrs. 

About  2Vs  M.  to  the  a. W.  of  Schonau,  in  the  wood»,  Vs  hir.  above  the 
hamlet  of  Weagelsbacli,  is  the  ancient  castle  of  Wasigenstein,  or  Wasen- 
sMa^  mentioned  in  tke  old  German  Walthariuslied,  and  one  of  the  most 
interesting  ruins  in  the  district ;  it  is  now  easily  accessible,  and  steps  have 
been  taken  to  prevent  ita  farther  deeay.  We  may  descend  hence  in  1/4  hr. 
to  Oberiteinbaeh  (Bdssle,  unpretending),  at  the  foot  of  the  mined  Klein- 
ArtUbtrg;  a  massive  rook  behind  the  village  bears  the  ruins  of  LUixel- 
hard$.  A  path  leads  to  the  S.,  via  Windecker  (to  the  left  the  ruined 
WiMck)  and  Windstein  to  (7  M.)  Jdgerthal  (Inn),  with  iron-works  and  the 
imposing  ruins  of  AH-Windstein  and  IFtu-Windst&in.  From  Jagerthal  ,to 
Niederbronn  (p.  288),  3  M. 

40.  Strassbnrg. 

Arrival.  The  Central  Raihoay  Station  (PI.  A,  2,  3),  a  handsome  new 
building,  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town;  it  is  adorned  with  frescoes  re- 
presenting Strasshurg  in  the  old  and  in  the  modern  empire.  Omnibuses 
belonging  to  the  larger  hotels  (50  pf.,  each  trunk  20  pf )  and  cabs  (see 
below)  are  in  waiting.  The  line  to  Kehl  has  also  a  station  at  the  Metzger- 
tbor  (comp.  Plan). 

Hotels.  At  the  station:  HdTSL  Natioxal,  a  new  house  of  the  first 
class,  with  lift,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2-4  m. ;  —  Hot.  Pfbiffer,  good  second-cl^s 
establishment,  with  an  'old-German'  wine- room,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  2  m.  —  In 
the  town:    *Villb  db  Paris  (PI.  a;  C,  3),  in  the  Broglie,  R.,  L.,  A  A.  4  m, 

B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  table-d'hote  (1  and  6  0" clock)  3  or 4m.,  cheaper  in  winter; 
*H6tel  o'Anglbtbbbb  (PI.  b;  B,  3),  opposite  the  station,  B.,  L.,  A  A.  from 
2Vt  m.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D.  (1  and  6)  2V2  or  4  m. ;  *Maison  Bodgb  (PI.  c; 

C,  3),  Kleber-Platz,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  2  m.  40  pf.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  3  m.?  *Euro- 
faisghbb  Hof,  Blau-Wolkengasse  19  (PI.  d;  G,  3),  with  restaur,  and  gar- 
den, B.,  L.,  &  A.  3.  B.  1  m.t  Hotbl  ob  Fbanob  (PI.  e;  G  3),  Junge  St. 
Peters-Platz,  R.  2,  A.  Va,  B.  1  m.j  Wibnbr  Hof  (PI.  f;  C,  3),  at  the  sta- 
tion, R.  from  1  m.  60  pf.,  A.  40  pf.,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  2  m.;  Viqnbttb  (PL  g; 
B,  3),  Lange-Str.  67*,  Hdrsx.  Gsist,  Kuss-Str.  5{  YiIiIiB  os  Lton  (PI.  i; 
G,  3),  Kinderspielgasse ;  HdTBL  Turk  (PI.  k-,  D,  4),  D.  2  m.,  Stadt  Basbl 
(PI.  1 ;  D,  4),  both  in  Jhe  Metzger-Platz ;  Krone,  Blume,  Kronenburger- 
Bir. ;  Riitdsfoss,  Metcger-Giessen. 

Cafes  (also  restaurants):  Olobe^  BrogliCy  both  in  the  Broglie;  Misange^ 
Heisengasse;  Cafi  de  la  Lanterne^  in  the  Arcades;  Sautwald,  Kussbaum- 
gasse;  du  Commerce^  Schlossergasse. 

Bestanrants.  *  Valentin^  Alter  Weinmarkt,  first-class,  D.  2  m.;  *lfott- 
maet9€hy  Neukirchgasse  ^  2ratm«>;raf»/m,  Kleber-Platz,  D.  27^  m. ;  Schrempp, 
Fasanengasse;  Pfeiffvr,  at  the  station  (see  above);  Kempfft  Kinderspiel- 
gasse ;  SehmufZj  Jean  dii  CaroHs,  ZuricherStr. ;  "^Railway  Restaurant.  —  Beer 
(Strasshurg  beer  highly  esteemed  ever  since  1446).  Taveme  Alsaeienne,  in 
the  Gewerbslauben ;  Eepirmnee,  Kalbsgasse;  Stadi  Parity  Bmderhofsgasee; 
Zum  Fischer y  Kinderspielgasse;  *Piton,  Gewerbslauben;  A*"»6acA«r,  Latere 
nengasse;  MUnehener  Kindt,  BrAnd^Mse^  Wolfs- Schlucht,  Goldschmidtzasse; 
Stadt  MUnehen,  Kdfergasse;  *lMxhof,  in  the  Broglie;  Framiscaner,  Stein- 
Str.;  ScMonMlWy  Beibeisengasse.  —   Tivoli,  outside  the  Schiltigheimer 


280  jiouUdO. 


STRASSBURe. 


Cdba. 


Thor,  on  the  N.B.  side  of  the  town,  beyond  the  *Contftde8\  concert-g:arden 
and  summer-theatre. 


Oab-Tariff. 


During  the 
day. 


In  the  even- 
ing (after  the 
street-lamps 
are  lit). 


At  night 

(midnight  to 

6  a.m.). 


1-2 
pers. 
m.  pf. 

1.  &) 

2.  40 
4.  80 


3-4 
pers. 
m.  pf. 
1.  80 


Per  Drive:  1-2      34        1-2       34 

Drive  within  the  town,  to  Tivoli,      pers.  pers.    pers.    pers, 
the  Citadel,  and  theHeteger-    m.  pf.m.  pf.  m.  pf  m.  pf. 

thor  Station —  -^5  —  90    1.  —    1.  20 

To  the  bridge  over  the  Rhine  .      1.  20  1.  50    1.  60    2.  — 

To  Kehl  .         2.  —  2.  40    2.  80    3.  40    4.  80    5.  70 

By  Time: 

Per  y^hx 1.  —  1.  20    1.  20    1.  46    1.  eO    1.  90 

-      1  hr 1.  60  1.  90    2.  —    2.  40    2.  40    2.  90 

For  each  1/4  hr.  additional  .    .     .     —36—40—40—50—50—60 

Trunk,  90  pf. 

Tramwayfl.  Within  the  town  (every  10-30  min.  \  fare  10  pf.).  From 
the  Steinthor  to  the  Mettgerthor;  from  the  Kleber-Platz  to  the  WeiMthurm- 
Btr.i  from  the  Kleber-Platz  to  the  KUnigStraue.  —  Ontside  the  town 
(steam-tramways).  From  the  BUintlior  to  aehiUigheim  ^  Bfsehheim  (everv 
20  min.),  and  ffOnheim  (ev.  40  min.),  ISpf.^  ft-om  the  Mettgerthor  to  the 
Kehl  Bridge^  every  20  min.,  20  pf. ;  from  the  Weissthttrm-Str.  to  KOnigs- 
hofen^  ev.  V2  hr.,  15  pf.-,  from  the  Kdnig-S'.r.  to  Rupreehtsmt^  ev.  20 min., 
15  pf. 

Bathfl.  Speierbad^  Alter  Weinmarkt;  Rosenbady  Sandplatz  (PI.  D,  4), 
at  these  vapour  baths;  Kleberbad,  at  the  Lrfzay-Mam^sia  Quay  (PI.  D,  3); 
Napoleonsbad ^  Hiihlenplan ;  Person^  Finkweiler,  these  two  on  the  river. 
River  Bath*  at  the  Kehl  bridge,  on  both  banks;  tramway,  see  above;  in 
summer,  trains  thrice  daily. 

Theatre  (PI.  D,  3;  p.  287),  six  times  a  week  in  winter.  French  Operettas 
at  BrUc1cmani%*$  Ceuino^  Kinderspielgasse,  in  winter,  and  in  the  Edengarlen^ 
Thiergarten-8tr.,  in  summer. 

Military  Muaic  in  the  Broglie,  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  from  4  to 
5,  6  to  6,  or  6  to  7  p.m.,  according  to  the  season. 

Post  Office  (PI.  D,  4),  in  the  Schloss-Platz,  opposite  the  cathedral. 

Telegraph  Office,  Pariser  -  Staden  4  (nearly  opposite  the  central  rail- 
way-station). 

Pfttia  de  foie  graa.  L.  Henry ^  Miinstergasse  5 ;  A.  Benry,  Grosse  Kirch- 
gasse;  Doyen  ^  Miinstergasse;  Hummel^  Lange-Str. ;  Arttner,  Domengasse; 
Martin,  Blauwolkengasse;  jf^ller,  Judengasse;  8chneegans-Reeb ,  Miinster- 
gasse 27.    Price  4  to  ^  m.    The  geese-livers  occasionally  weigh  2-3  lbs.  each. 

Principal  Attractions :  Cathedral  (ascend  tower) ;  Church  of  St.  Tho- 
mas (p.  286) ;  Monuments  of  Kleber  (p.  286)  and  Gutenberg  (p.  186),  and 
the  Broglie  (p.  287).  —  The  proffered  services  of  valets  de  place  are  quite 
unnecessary. 

English  Church  Berrioe  at  the  English  Chapel,  Munz-Str.  1. 

Strassbnrgy  the  capital  of  Alsace  and  German  Lorraine,  the  seat 
of  the  governor  and  administration  of  that  province,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  15th  Corps  of  the  German  army,  and  the  see  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  bishop,  with  112,091  Inhab.  (in  1871,  85,654;  V2 
Rom.  Cath.),  is  situated  on  the  III,  2M.  from  the  Rhine,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  the  Rhine-Mame  Canal.  This  canal  is 
connected  with  the  Rhine-Rhone  Canal,  which  joins  the  TU  above 
the  town,  by  means  of  a  smaller  canal,  outside  the  Jf.  fortifications. 
As  a  medium  of  communication  between  Germany,  France,  and 
Switzerland,  Strassburg  has  long  enjoyed  extensive  commercial 
relations.  Recently  it  has  also  become  a  manufacturing  place  of 
some  importance,  with  breweries,  engine-works,  and  tanneries. 


4- 


.<^ 


.^ 


KJiiriJ 


VsvchTiAW' 


Plofs 


O  IQO         aOO  3*»y         *<M3 


J^i     i\t«*-  ''  V    Jfci^tiii'    Spud  -TlM  r      Th^ 


■^ 


■  ■    heir 


jjjiiijiifii'Tg 


line, 
'hile 


Cathedral.  STRASSBURG.  40.  Route.    281 

The  town  was  founded  by  tbe  ItomaM  and  named  Argentoratum^  and 
in  the  middle  ages  became  one  of  the  most  prosperous  and  powerful 
of  the  free  cities  of  the  German  Empire.  On  the  occasion  of  imperial 
processions  the  citizens  enjoyed  the  proud  distinction  of  having  their 
banner  borne  second  only  to  the  imperial  eagle.  Their  love  of  inde- 
pendence and  skill  in  tbe  arts  of  war  enabled  them  to  maintain  their  posi- 
tion in  spite  of  the  frequent  attacks  of  the  bishops  and  the  nobilitv  of  the 
country  (as  at  the  battle  of  Oberhausbergen  in  1262),  and  in  1445  they 
successfully  defended  their  city  against  00,000  Armagnacs  who  invaded 
Alsace  under  the  Dauphin  of  France.  On  30th  Sept.,  1681,  in  a  time  of 
peace,  Louis  XIY.,  who  had  already  conquered  the  rest  of  Alsace  during 
the  Thirty  Years'  War,  seized  the  city  of  Strassburg,  and  France  was  con- 
firmed in  its  possession  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck  in  1697.  By  the  Peace  of 
Frankfort,  10th  May,  1871,  the  city  was  restored  to  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

The  UniTersity,  founded  in  1621,  was  closed  at  the  time  of  the  French 
Revolution,  but  was  re-opened  in  1872.  Many  distinguished  men  have 
been  educated  here ,  and  Gtoethe,  after  a  prolonged  course  of  study  in  the 
society  of  Herder,  Stilling,  and  other  talented  fellow-students,  graduated 
here  as  a  doctor  of  laws  in  1771.  In  1794  the  National  Convention  sup- 
pressed the  university  as  being  a  stronghold  of  the  German  element  in 
Alsace,  and  in  1808  it  was  converted  into  a  French  academy,  which  in 
its  turn  was  closed  in  1870. 

Strassburg  has  always  been  regarded  as  a  place  of  the  utmost  strate- 
gical importance ,  and  in  a  letter  of  Emp.  Maximilian  I.  is  termed  the 
bulwark  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire ,  and  commended  for  its  old-German 
honesty  and  bravery.  Strassburg  artillery  was  famous  in  the  middle 
ages.  The  Fortiflcations  were  much  strengthened  by  the  French,  who 
constituted  Strassburg  their  third  great  arsenal.  The  siege  of  1870  began 
on  18th  Aug.,  the  bombardment  on  18th  Aug.  \  and  after  a  determined 
and  gallant  resistance  the  town  capitulated  on  27th  September.  The 
pentagonal  Citadel  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine, 
erected  by  Yauban  in  1682-84,  was  converted  into  a  heap  of  ruins,  while 
the  Bteinthor  on  the  N.  and  the  Weistethurmthor  on  the  W.  were  almost 
entirely  destroyed.  The  quarters  of  the  town  adjoining  these  gates  suf- 
fered terribly,  but  no  trace  of  the  havoc  now  remains.  The  German 
fortifications  consist  of  an  extensive  girdle  of  fourteen  strong  outworks, 
some  of  them  4-5  M.  from  the  town  (comp.  p.  268  and  p.  294),  and  of  an 
inner  rampart,  enclosing  a  space  more  than  twice  the  area  of  the  former 
town. 

The  city ,  in  spite  of  a  foreign  domination  of  nearly  200  years, 
has  maintained  in  many  respects ,  both  in  external  appearance  and 
in  the  language  and  customs  of  its  Inhabitants,  the  character  of  a 
German  Imperial  city.  As  we  traverse  the  generally  narrow  and 
crooked  streets  we  observe  many  medisval  dwellings  with  Gothic 
gables  or  facades,  embellished  with  wood-carving,  which  justify 
the  epithet  of  *most  beautiful  city*  applied  to  Strassburg  in  an  old 
*Volkslied'.    In  the  centre  of  the  city  rises  the  — 

'Cathedral  (PI.  D,  3),  to  which  the  stranger  naturally  first 
directs  his  steps.  The  history  of  the  building  of  the  present 
structure  extends  from  the  12th  to  the  15th  century.  The  an- 
cient edifice,  said  to  have  been  originally  founded  in  the  time 
of  Clovis  (Bth  cent.),  was  repeatedly  injured  by  fire  during  the 
12th  century.  It  was  accordingly  determined  to  erect  a  new 
church,  the  building  of  which  was  begun  in  1179  undei  Bishop 
Conrad  /.,  hut  progressed  slowly  and  with  prolonged  interruptions. 
To  this  period,  in  which  the  Romanesque  style  still  flourished, 
helong  the  choir-niches  and  the  transept.   Towards  the  end  of  it. 


282     Route  40. 


STRASSBURG. 


Cathedral. 


however,  Gothic  architecture  had  hecome  estahlished  in  France, 
and  of  course  exercised  an  influence  on  all  huildings  in  ootirse 
of  construction.  The  N.  facade  of  the  transept  (now  altered)  is 
tolerahly  pure  Romanesque,  while  the  S.  facade  presents  pointed 
arches  and  rose-windows  approaching  the  newer  style.  The  rebuild- 
ing of  the  nave  was  begun  about  the  middle  of  the  13th  century, 
after  the  completion  of  the  E.  portions  of  the  church.    The  archi- 


tecture here  is  exclusively  Gothic,  with  the  exception  of  some 
traces  of  the  older  style  in  the  pillars.  The  architect  of  the  nave, 
according  to  the  latest  researches,  seems  to  have  been  one  Meister 
Wehelin.  At  all  events  this  part  of  the  church  was  completed  in 
1275  (or  on  St.  Urban's  Day,  1277,  if  we  may  believe  an  in- 
scription in  the  cathedral  of  doubtful  origin,  now  removed),  after 
which  the  facade  was  taken  in  hand.  It  is  in  connection  with 
•^he  latter  that  we  encounter  the  name  of  Erwin  von  Steinbach 


Cathedral.  STRA.SSBUBG.  40.  Boute.     283 

for  the  first  time.  Of  the  origin  and  training  of  this  master 
we  know  nothing,  and  even  the  accuracy  of  his  surname  is  ques- 
tioned. We  can  gather,  however,  from  analogies  of  style  that 
he  had  heen  a  diligent  student  of  French  architecture  (such  as  that 
of  the  churches  of  St.  Denis,  and  of  St.  Urhain  at  Troyes).  He  was, 
however,  hy  no  means  a  mere  servile  copyist,  hut  a  thoughtful  and 
original  master ,  who  pre-eminently  surpassed  his  contemporaries 
in  his  keen  sense  of  symmetry.  He  flourished  ahout  the  year  1318. 
His  work  includes  not  only  the  facade  up  to  the  termination  of  the 
rose-window,  hut  also  the  restoration  and  heightening  of  the  hody 
of  the  church  after  the  fire  of  1298 ,  and  in  particular  the  upper 
windows,  the  triforium,  and  the  vaulting.  The  upper  parts  of  the 
facade  and  the  towers  were  completed  after  Erwin's  death  in  ac- 
cordance with  quite  different  designs.  The  office  of  cathedral- 
architect  long  remained  in  Erwin^s  family.  At  the  heginning  of  the 
15th  cent.  Ae  work  was  superintended  hy  Ulrich  von  Ensingen  of 
Ulm,  who  constructed  the  platform  hetween  the  towers.  Johann 
and  Wenztlj  the  two  ^Junker  von  Prag\  memhers  of  a  Prague 
building-society  which  ahout  this  time  was  dissolved,  were  the 
architects  of  the  octagonal  story  of  the  tower,  with  its  lofty  windows, 
and  of  the  perforated  staircase-turrets.  Lastly,  the  heightening  of 
the  octagonal  tower  hy  another  low  story,  and  the  completion  of 
the  work  in  1439  hy  a  singular  spire ,  also  consisting  entirely  of 
open-work,  are  attributed  to  Johannes  HuLtz  of  Cologne  (1439).  — 
All  traces  of  the  injury  which  the  cathedral  sustained  during  the 
siege  of  1870  have  now  disappeared.  The  roof  has  been  covered 
with  copper,  and  the  towers  over  the  cross  and  the  apse  were  com- 
pleted in  1879. 

The  *Fagade^  by  Erwin  of  Steinbach,  is  justly  the  most  admired 
part  of  the  edifice ,  and  presents  a  singularly  happy  union  of  the 
style  of  N.  France  (interrupting  galleries ,  horizontal  members ,  and 
fine  rose -window,  42  ft.  in  diameter)  with  the  perpendicular 
tendency  peculiar  to  Oerman  cathedrals.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
delicate  tracery,  and  the  entire  building  is  embellished  with  numer- 
ous sculptures  (many  of  them  restored).  Those  of  the  three  *Portals, 
representing  scenes  from  the  history  of  the  Creation  and  Redemption, 
are  among  the  finest  Gothic  works  in  existence.  The  niches  of  the 
gallery  of  the  first  story  contain  equestrian  figures  of  Clovis,  Dago- 
bert ,  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  (all  dating  from  1291),  and  Louis  XIV. 
(erected  in  1823).  In  1793  several  hundred  statuettes  were  barbar- 
ously torn  down  and  destroyed,  and  the  beautiful  spire  only  escaped 
the  same  fate  from  having  been  provided  with  a  red  republican  cap 
made  of  metal  as  a  protecting  badge. 

The  Romanesque  *S.  Portal  also  merits  examination.  The 
sculptures  with  which  it  is  adorned  are  assigned  by  an  Inscription 
of  doubtful  origin  to  Sabina,  the  supposed  daughter  of  Erwin;  but 
not  only  her  relationship  to  that  master  but   her  very  existence 


284     Route  40.  STRASSBURG.  Cathedral, 

&s  a  sculptress  are  probably  entirely  mythical.  Of  the  reliefs  over 
the  doors  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  is  almost  entirely  of  modern 
workmanship,  while  the  Death  of  Mary  has  also  been  freely  restored. 
King  Solomon  between  the  doors  is  also  modern.  The  female  figures 
on  the  right  and  left  are  mediaeval  symbols  of  Christianity  and 
Judaism.  The  Statues  of  Enpin  and  Sabina^  byKirstein,  were 
erected  in  1840. 

On  the  N.  side  is  the  Chapel  of  8t.  Lawrence  with  recently-re- 
stored sculptures  from  the  martyrdom  of  the  saint,  built  in  front 
of  the  Romanesque  facade  of  the  transept  in  1495-1505. 

The  •iNTBKioa  (open  9-12  and  2-6;  tickets  for  crypt  and 
choir,  35  pf. ;  fees  for  inspecting  the  clock  and  some  of  the 
chapels),  consisting  of  a  nave,  14  yds.  wide  and  99  ft.  high, 
and  aisles,  with  transept  and  a  somewhat  shallow  choir,  is 
121  yds.  in  length  and  45  yds.  in  width.  It  differs  from  that 
of  other  German  cathedrals  in  possessing  greater  width  in  pro- 
portion to  its  height,  and  surpasses  them  in  harmonious  effect.  The 
subdued  light  enters  through  stained  -  glass  windows  of  the  15th 
cent. ,  some  of  which  are  admirably  executed.  The  Magi  with  the 
Virgin  in  the  N.  aisle  are  modern.  The  pillars  and  columns  are 
slender,  but  of  massive  construction.  The  *Pulpit  of  1485 ,  richly 
sculptured  in  stone ,  is  by  Hans  Hammerer.  The  Font  in  the  N. 
transept  dates  from  1453.  —  The  Chapel  of  St.  John  (13th  cent.),  to 
which  a  few  steps  descend  to  the  left  of  the  choir,  contains  the 
Monument  of  Bishop  Conrad  of  Lichtenherg  (d.  1299),  executed  in 
Erwin's  studio ,  in  a  (closed)  court  beyond  which  is  the  Tombstone 
of  Erwin^  his  wife,  and  one  of  his  grand-children.  —  The  Chapel 
of  St.  Andrew^  to  the  right  of  the  choir,  dates  from  the  end  of  the 
12th,  with  additions  of  the  13th  century.  —  The  ^Erwinspfeiler\ 
a  pillar  in  the  S.  transept,  is  adorned  with  Gothic  sculptures. 

The  large  astronomical  *01ock  in  the  S.  transept  was  constructed  in 
1838-42  by  Schmlguiy  a  clockmaker  of  Strassburg.  It  replaces  a  similar 
clock  by  Dasppodius,  constructed  in  1571,  which  was  in  use  down,  to 
1789,  and  which  in  its  turn  formed  a  substitute  for  a  still  older  clock, 
mentioned  as  early  as  the  13th  century.  Only  a  few  parts  of  the  interior 
and  some  of  the  decorative  paintings  of  the  old  clock  were  used  in 
making  the  present  one.  The  exterior  attracts  spectators  at  all  times, 
especially  at  noon.  On  the  first  gallery  an  angel  strikes  the  quarters 
on  a  bell  in  his  hand;  while  a  genius  at  his  side  reverses  his  sand- 
glass every  hour.  Higher  up,  around  a  skeleton  which  strikes  the  hours, 
are  grouped  figures  representing  boyhood ,  youth ,  manhood ,  and  old  age 
(the  four  quarters  of  the  hour).  Under  the  first  gallery  the  symbolic  deity  of 
each  day  steps  out  of  a  niche ,  Apollo  on  Sunday ,  Diana  on  Monday ,  and 
so  on.  In  the  highest  niche,  at  noon,  the  Twelve  Apostles  move  round  a 
figure  of  the  Saviour.  On  the  highest  pinnacle  of  the  side-tower,  which  con- 
tains the  weights,  is  perched  a  cock  which  flaps  its  wings,  stretclies  its  neck, 
and  crows,  awakening  the  echoes  of  the  remotest  nooks  of  the  cathedral. 
The  mechanism  also  sets  in  motion  a  complete  planetarium,  behind  which 
is  a  perpetual  calendar.  —  The  most  wonderful  feature  of  this  piece  of 
mechanism  is  that  it  is  calculated  to  regulate  itself  and  adapt  its  motions 
to  the  revolution  of  the  seasons  for  an  almost  unlimited  number  of  years. 

Opposite  the  clock  is  a  Statue  of  Bishop  Werner ^  with  a  model 


Caihechal  Tower.  SXRASSBURG.  40.  RouU.     285 

of  the  cathedral  (beginning  of  the  11th  cent.},  executed  by 
Friedrich  in  1840.  —  Two  old  Latin  inscriptions  on  the  S.W.  pillar 
at  the  angle  formed  by  the  transept  and  the  nave  commemorate  the 
zeal  and  piety  of  John  Geiler  of  Kaysersberg  (d.  1510;  p.  313), 
one  of  the  most  profound  scholars  and  undaunted  preachers  of  hia 
age.  —  The  Chapel  of  St.  Catherine,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  aisle, 
was  added  in  1349  and  revaulted  in  1547.  —  Opposite,  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  N.  aisle,  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Martin,  of  1515-20. 

The  choir  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Steinheil  of  Paris,  an 
Alsatian  by  birth,  and  Steinle  of  Frankfort,  executed  in  1877-80, 
The  value  of  those  by  the  former,  representing  the  Last  Judgment, 
has  been  much  canyassed. 

The  ""'Gathbdral  Toweb,  (p.  283)  rises  from  the  W.  fa^e  to  a 
vast  and  dizzy  height.  Adjoining  the  right  portal,  round  the 
corner ,  is  a  door  leading  to  the  dwelling  of  the  custodian ,  from 
whom  a  ticket  is  procured  (to  the  platform  15  pf.,  up  to  the  turrets 
40  pf. ;  tickets  for  the  not  altogether  safe  ascent  to  the  top,  1  m. 
20  pf.,  can  be  obtained  only  in  the  Rathhaus).  The  visitor  ascends 
a  tolerable  staircase  of  330  steps  to  the  Platform,  216  ft.  above  the 
street,  which  affords  a  fine  *Vibw  of  the  town  and  the  plain  of  the 
Rhine.  To  the  E.  is  seen  the  Black  Forest  from  Baden  to  the 
Blauen;  W.  and  N.  the  Yosges  Mountains;  S.  the  isolated  Kaiser- 
stuhl  (p.  344),  rising  from  the  plain ;  beyond  it,  in  the  extreme 
distance,  the  Jura  range.  Innumerable  names  are  engraved  on  the 
parapet  of  the  platform  and  on  the  tower  itself.  Among  them  are 
those  of  Ooethe,  Herder,  and  Lavaier,  on  a  stone  to  the  right  of  the 
small  E.  door  of  the  tower  leading  to  the  gallery.  VoUaire'a  is  also 
to  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  among  many  others. 

From  the  platfonu  to  the  Bummit  of  the  tower  is  a  height  of  249  ft.  \ 
the  entire  height  is  therefore  465  ft.  (one  of  the  highest  buildings  in  Eu- 
rope; Cologne  Cathedral  512  ft.,  Rouen  Cathedral  485  ft.,  the  new  Nicolai- 
kirche  at  Hamburg  471  ft.,  St.  Martinis  at  Landshut  in  Germany  462  ft., 
St.  Stephen's  at  Vienna  446  ft.,  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  435  ft.^  St.  Paul's  at 
London  404  ft.).  The  spire  having  been  injured  by  lightning  in  1833,  it 
is  now  surrounded  with  a  network  of  conductors.  The  unfinished  tur- 
rets at  the  comers ,.  which  seem  to  cling  precariously  to  the  principal 
structure,  contain  winding  staircases,  leading  to  the  ^Lantern*^  an  open 
space  immediately  below  the  extreme  summit.  The  massive  cross  on  the 
top  was  bent  by  a  projectile  during  the  siege  of  1870,  but  has  been  restored. 

The  Mtinster-Platz,  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral, 
contains  several  ancient  examples  of  timber  architecture,  the  finest 
of  which  is  the  KammerzeWsehe  Hau9,  now  being  judiciously  re- 
stored. In  the  Schloss-Platz  (PL  E,  3,  4),  which  lies  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  Miinster ,  is  situated  the  Lyceum  (PI.  8) ,  or  grammar-- 
school,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Seminary. 

The  Episcopal  Palace ,  opposite  the  S.  portal  of  the  Miinster, 
built  by  Cardinal  de  Rohan  in  1731-41,  was  purchased  by  the  town 
during  the  first  Revolution,  afterwards  converted  into  an  imperial 
priace,  and  is  now  employed  as  a  Library  (PI.  D,  4).  The  new  Lib" 
rary,  founded  to  replace  the  town-library  which  was  destroyed  dur-» 


286    Route  40.  STRASSBtJRG.      Gutenberg's  Statue, 

ing  the  siege,  now  comprizes  550,000  volumes.  The  building  also 
contains  a  yaluable  C<ibinet  of  Coins, 

The  Maison  de  Notre  Dame^  or  Frauenhaus  (PI.  D,  3 ;  entrance, 
Schloss-PIatz  3),  built  in  1581,  contains  an  ancient  f^an  of  the  ca- 
thedral, the  model  of  the  spire,  several  Gothic  sculptures  trans- 
ferred from  the  cathedral,  designs  for  the  tower  (dated  1377  and 
1439),  and  remains  of  the  old  clock.  The  elegant  winding  *Stair- 
case,  in  the  latest  Gothic  style,  merits  attention. 

From  the  cathedral  the  traveller  may  next  proceed  to  the  church 
of  St.  Thomas,  crossing  the  Gutbnbbhos-Platz  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  so- 
called  from  the  Statue  of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of  printing, 
who  made  his  first  experiments  at  Strassburg  about  the  year  1436. 
The  four  bas-reliefs  are  emblematical  of  the  blessings  of  the  inven- 
tion in  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe ,  and  comprise  likenesses  of 
many  celebrated  men.  The  first  Strassburg  printer  was  one  Johann 
Mentel  or  Mentelin,  who  flourished  about  1458-1478,  and  was  per- 
haps either  a  pupil  or  assistant  of  Gutenberg  (comp.  p.  151).  The 
Gutenbergs-Platz  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  H6tel  du  Commerce 
(or  Chamber  of  Commerce),  formerly  the  town-hall,  built  in  the 
Renaissance  style  by  Daniel  Specklin  in  1585  on  the  site  of  the 
old  palace  (*Pfalz'),  but  remodelled  at  the  end  of  last  century.  The 
first  floor  contains  the  rooms  of  the  Alsatian  Club.  —  No.  16  Alter 
Fischmarkt,  where  Goethe  lived  when  a  student  at  Strassburg  (1770- 
71),  is  indicated  by  a  marble  slab. 

The  Protestant  *  Church  of  St.  nomas  (PI.  G,  4)  is  a  plain 
Gothic  edifice  constructed  in  1273-90  on  the  site  of  an  older 
church ;  the  nave  with  its  double  aisles  is  said  to  have  been  erected 
in  1313-90.  Tickets  of  admission,  40  pf.  each,  obtained  from  the 
sacristan,  Thomas-Platz  5. 

The  choir  contains  a  magnificent  ^Monument  in  marble,  erected  by 
Louis  XV.  to  Marshal  Saxe  (d.  1750),  son  of  Augustus  I.  of  Poland  and 
the  beautiful  Countess  Aurora  v.  Konigsmark.  It  was  executed  by  PigalUy 
who  completed  it  in  1776  after  twenty  years'*  labour.  The  marshal  is  in 
the  act  of  descending  into  the  tomb  opened  for  his  reception  by  Death, 
while  a  female  figure  representing  France  strives  to  detain  him,  and 
Hercules  at  the  side  in  mournful  attitude  leans  upon  his  club}  on  the 
left,  with  broken  flags  beneath,  are  the  Austrian  eagle,  the  Dutch  lion, 
and  the  English  leopard,  symbolizing  the  three  powers  defeated  by  tiie 
marshal  in  the  Flemish  wars.  The  whole  is  an  allegory  in  the  ques- 
tionable taste  of  the  age,  but  as  a  work  of  art  masterly  and  original. 
The  stone  sarcophagus  of  BUhop  Adeloeh  (d.  821),  in  one  of  the  niches  of 
the  choir,  deserves  notice.  The  church  also  contains  busts  and  monu> 
ments  of  celebrated  professors  of  the  University,  and  the  sarcophagus 
of  a  Count  Ahlefeldt,  who  died  in  1669  while  attending  Strassburg 
University. 

From  the  Gutenbergs-Platz  the  Gawbrbslaubek,  a  busy  street 
with  arcades  under  the  houses  on  its  £.  side,  leads  N.  to  the  Kle- 
bbe-Platz  {Fl,  G ,  3),  which  is  adorned  with  a  bronze  Statn^  of 
Kleber  (PI.  36),  by  Grass  (d.  1876),  erected  in  1840.  At  the  foot 
of  the  statue  reclines  an  Egyptian  sphynx,  and  at  the  sides  are 
two  reliefs.   The  inscriptions  give  a  brief  account  of  the  career  of 


UrUveraity.  STRASSBURG.  40.  Uoute.     2S7 

the  general,  who  was  a  native  of  Strasshurg.  —  The  so-called  Aw 
bette,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  I^atz,  fonnerly  contained  the  mnnicipal 
picture-gallery,  which  was  totally  destroyed  hy  the  bombardment 
of  1870.  The  building  has  been  tastefully  restored,  the  former 
facade  haying  been  retained.  The  upper  floor  is  devoted  to  the 
Conaervatoirej  and  includes  a  fine  concert-hall.  —  Adjacent  is  the 
Eiseme-Manns-Platz  (PI.  VI;  C,  4),  deriving  its  name  from  the 
'iron  man'  which  forms  the  cognisance  of  Strassburg. 

The  Temple  Keuf,  or  Keakirche  (PL  0,  3),  a  Dominican  church 
of  the  13th  cent.,  was  entirely  burned  down  during  the  siege  of 
1870,  and  the  libraries  of  the  town  and  the  Protestant  Seminary, 
which  had  been  deposited  in  the  choir,  were  also  totally  destroyed, 
The  church  has  been  rebuilt,  with  the  exception  of  the  tower, 
in  an  imposing  Romanesque  style,  and  contains  a  flue  organ,  recitals 
on  which  are  frequently  given.  Adjoining  the  church  is  the  Pro- 
testant Oymnaaium  (PI.  38),  an  institution  of  which  the  Strass- 
buigers  have  been  justly  proud  for  more  than  two  centuries. 

The  BrogUe  (PI.  G,  D,  3),  a  Platz  to  the  £.,  named  after  a 
marshal  of  that  name  who  laid  it  out  in  1742,  is  bounded  on  the 
N.B.  by  the  Theatre  (PI.  34),  built  in  1805-21,  also  burned  down 
in  1870,  but  since  restored  in  the  former  style,  with  a  lofty  por- 
tico. On  the  S.£.  is  the  StadtJiaue^  with  the  valuable  municipal 
archives,  the  MiliUtry  Headquarters,  and  the  Residence  of  the  Gover- 
nor of  Alsace.  At  the  corner  is  a  bronze  statue  of  the  prefect  Mar- 
quis de  Lizay^MoffUsia  (1810-14),  by  Grass,  erected  in  1857. 

Beyond  the  111  various  new  streets  have  been  begun  to  be  laid 
out.  In  the  Kaisbk-Platz  (PL  D.  2),  adjoining  the  river,  an  Im- 
perial Falaee,  designed  by  Eggert,  is  in  course  of  erection.  —  A 
wide  street  leads  hence  to  the  S.E.  to  the  very  imposing  new  Uni- 
▼ereity  (PL  £,  F,  3).  In  front  is  the  Collegicnkaus,  in  the  early 
Italian  style.  The  interior  contains  a  handsome  court,  lighted  from 
above,  richly  decorated  vestibules,  staircases,  and  aula,  and  on  the 
first  floor  an  extensive  collection  of  Greek  and  Roman  sculptures. 
Adjoining  are  the  Chemical  and  Physical  Institutes^  the  Botanical 
Institute,  with  a  large  garden,  and  hot-houses,  and  the  excellently 
equipped  Observaiory*  A  geological,  zoological,  and  pharmaceutical 
institute  is  also  about  to  be  erected.  —  The  Institutes  of  the  Medi- 
cal Faculty  are  situated  near  the  l&TgQ  Hospital  (PL  G,  4,  5,  B,  5), 
in  the  S.  part  of  the  city. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  111 ,  on  the  way  to  the  citadel ,  is 
situated  the  handsome  Academy  Building  (PL  E,  4) ,  erected  in 
1825,  containing  the  ColUotions  of  the  Alsatian  Antiquarian  So- 
ciety y  and  the  extensive  Museum  of  Natural  History.  The  former 
GOllectioBS  include  Roman  tombstones  of  soldiers  of  the  2nd  legion, 
a  large  number  of  Roman  sepulchral  objects  found  at  the  Weissen- 
thurm-Thor;  mediaeval  and  Renaissance  articles,  including  two 
winged  altar-pieces  from  Neuweiler  and  Sulzbach ;  in  the  garden, 


288    Route  41.  BITSCH. 

sarcophagi  and  Bomanesqae  sculptures  from  churches.  —  In  the 
neighbourhood  is  the  Oovemment  Tobacco  Manufactory, 

Two  pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  within  the  lines ;  viz.  to  the 
Contades  (PI.  E.  1,  2)  or  public  park,  near  the  Schiltigheimer- 
Thor,  and  to  the  Orangerie  (PI.  G,  H,  1,2),  another  pretty  public 
garden. 

F&OH  Sthassbusq  to  Kehl  (p.  342)  is  also  a  pleasant  walk  (2  M.,  comp. 
PI.  H,  5;  tramway,  see  p.  280  j  railway,  p.  343).  The  road  leads  over  the 
Sporenintely  formed  by  the  temporary  divergence  of  the  ^Little  Rhine^ 
from  the  main  stream,  and  across  the  b  idge-of-boats,  275  yds.  in  length, 
to  Kehl.  Beyond  the  bridge  over  the  'Little'  Rhine,  on  the  Sporeninsel, 
to  the  right  of  the  road,  is  a  monument  erected  by  Xapoleon  I.  to  General 
Desaix,  who  fell  at  Marengo  in  1800.  On  the  E.-  side  of  the  Sporeninsel 
is  the  favourite  open-air  pleasure  resort  the  *'RAeinlust,  to  which  the 
tramway  extends. 

41.  From  Strassborg  to  Saaxbriickeii  and  Metz. 

84  H.  Railway  in  5-6Vt  hrs.  (fares  11  m.,  7  m.  40,  4  m.  eO  pf.)- 

From  Strassburg  to  Hagenau^  20^2  Al.,  see  p.  268.  At  Hagenau 
the  line  diverges  to  the  N.W.  from  that  to  Weissenburg ,  passes 
(23  M.)  8chweighau8en  (whence  there  is  a  branch-line  to  2^bem, 
p.  289),  and  traverses  part  of  the  forest  of  Hagenau  (p.  268). 
271/2 M.  Merzweiler,  a  busy  little  place  with  iron-works;  28  M. 
Mieteaheim;  30  M.  Gundershofen.  —  31 1/2  M.  Eeichshofen  Werk 
and  32  M.  Beichshofen  Stadt  (BelleTue,  at  the  sUtion ;  battleflekl, 
see  p.  267),  situated  on  the  road  from  Worth  to  Bltsch ,  by  which 
the  remnants  of  MacMahon's  army  retreated  on  the  evening  of 
6th  Aug.,  1870.  The  line  enters  the  mountains,  and  passes  through 
several  cuttings. 

34 M.  Kiederbronn  r*Zur  Goldenen  Kette),  with  3200  Inhab.,  in 
the  pretty  valley  of  the  FaUtensteiner  Bachj  is  a  popular  summer- 
resort  with  two  saline  springs.  Pleasant  walks.  The  Wasenberg, 
which  rises  abruptly  to  the  W.  of  the  town ,  commanding  a  fine 
view,  and  easily  ascended  in  1  hr.,  is  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 
the  Waaenburgj  erected  in  the  14th  century.  Other  excursions  may 
be  taken  to  the  Bdrenthalj  the  ruin  of  FalkensteiUj  etc.  —  The 
Jdgerthal  and  the  Wasigensteinf  see  p.  279. 

3872^'  Bhilippsburg.  About  3M.  from  here,  among  the  woods, 
is  the  ruined  Amaburg  (12th  cent.),  with  a  massive  tower.  42  M. 
Bannstein. 

49  M.  Bitsch  (Hotel  de  Metz),  a  small  town  and  fortress  with 
2900  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  N.  slopes  of  the  Vosges,  and 
commanded  by  Fort  BiUch ,  the  fortifications  of  which ,  partly 
hewn  in  the  rock,  are  deemed  almost  impregnable.  In  the  Franco- 
German  war  of  1870-71  Bitsch  was  enclosed  by  the  Germans  from 
the  middle  of  August,  1870,  till  7th  March,  1871,  and  only  capit- 
ulated after  the  preliminary  articles  of  the  peace  had  been  signed. 

54  M .  Lemberg,  with  crystal,  faience,  and  tobacco-pipe  manu-* 
factories;    56t/2  M,    Enchenberg;    591/2  M.   Klein^Bederchingen; 


ZABERN.  42.  Route.     289 

61 Y2  ^*  Bohrhach;  66  M.  £^>es&ruefcen,  also  a  station  on  the  rail- 
•way  from  Zweibrucken  to  Saargemiind  (p.  270). 

73  M.  Saargemflnd)  French  Sarreffueminet  (Hotel  de  Paris), 
a  small  town  with  9600  inhab. ,  at  the  confluence  of  the  BUes  and 
Saar,  the  latter  of  which  here  forms  the  boundary  between  German 
Lorraine  and  Rhenish  Prussia,  possesses  large  manufactories  of 
plush,  velvet,  faience,  and  earthenware. 

From  Saargemtind  to  Saarburg,  see  p.  291  •,  to  Homburg,  p.  270. 

At  Saargemund  the  line  divides:  the  branch  to  the  N.  runs  by 
HanweiUr  (station  for  the  small  baths  of  Rilehingen)  and  Klein- 
BlHUrsdorf  to  (84  M.)  Saarbracken  (p.  161);  that  to  the  W.  by 
Hundlingen^  Farschweiler,  and  Beningen  to  (128  M.)  Mete  (p.  162). 

42.  From  Strassburg  by  Saarbnrg  to  Metz. 
The  K.  Yosges  Mts. 

431/2  M.  Railway  in  1V«-2V4  hrs.  (fares  6  m.  70,  3  m.  80,  2  m.  50  pf. ; 
express-fares  80  pf.  more).  To  Metz,  98  M.,  express  in  3V4  hrs.,  ordinary 
trains  in  4Va-5  hrs.  (fares  12  m.  80,  8m.  50,  Dm.  50 pf.;  express  Im.  80pf. 
extra).    To  Nancy,  93  M.,  express  in  3V3  hw.,  ordinary  trains  in  5  hrs. 

As  far  as  Zabem  the  scenery  is  uninteresting.  41/2  M.  Mundols- 
heim.  At  (6^2  M.)  VendenJieim  the  line  to  Weissenburg  diverges 
to  the  right  (p.  268).  The  train  crosses  the  Zom.  IOV2  Brumath ; 
14  M.  Mommenheim;  17  M.  Hochfelden;  20  M.  Wilwisheim;  22  M. 
Dettweiler;  241/2  M.  Steinburg  (to  Hagenau,  see  p.  290). 

27M.  Zabern (610ft.;  *B6tel  Amhrusteri  *8orme,  D.2%  S.  2, 
R.  172-2m.;  Schwarzer  Ochse;  Hotel  ^  Bestaurant  zum  Munchenev 
Kindl,  at  the  station;  Karpfen^  good  wine),  also  called  Elsasa- 
Zdbem  to  distinguish  it  from  Rhein- Zabern  and  Berg-Zabern 
(p.  266),  the  French  Saveme ,  the  Trea  Tabemae  of  the  Romans, 
and  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Wasgau,  is  now  a  dull  town  with 
6600  inhab.,  lying  at  the  entrance  of  the  Zabemer  Senke  (p.  290), 
a  narrow  defile  of  the  Vosges,  watered  by  the  Zorn,  and  close  to  the 
base  of  the  beautifully-wooded  lower  hills.  On  the  latter  appear  the 
ruins  of  Oreiffenstein  to  the  right  (W.),  and  to  the  left(S.W.)Hoft- 
Barr.  The  Rhine-Mame  Canal  also  traverses  the  pass  and  intersects 
the  town. 

The  conspicuous  Schloss  of  the  Bishops  of  Strassburg,  erected  in 
its  present  form  in  1779  by  Cardinal  de  Rohan,  from  the  designs 
of  Salins  de  Montfort ,  is  now  used  as  a  barrack.  The  principal 
facade  is  turned  towards  the  garden.  An  Obelisk  in  the  planted 
square  in  front  of  the  Schloss,  erected  in  1666,  records  the  distances 
of  100  different  towns  from  Zabern  in  German  miles. 

Ascending  the  Haupt-Strasse  we  reach  the  Hauptkirchej  chiefly 
in  the  late-Gothio  style  of  the  latter  half  of  the  15th  century.  The 
pulpit  dates  from  1497;  the  four  Scenes  from  the  Passion,  in  the 
Virgin's  Chapel  at  the  extremity  of  the  left  aisle,  are  ascribed  to 
Hans  Wohlgemuth,    The  court-gateway,  to  the  N.  of  the  church, 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    lOthEdit.  19 


290    Route  42.  lOTZELBURG.  From  Straaahurg 

leads  to  a  Museumj  in  which  are  preserred  Roman,  Qallic,  Celtic, 
and  Franconian  antiquities  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  including 
several  roof -shaped  tombstones  with  Roman  inscriptions  from 
Kempel,  Falberg,  and  Dagsbnrg. 

Fbojc  Zabjebn  to  Hagkmau,  26  m.,  railway  in  2V8  hrs.  (fares,  3  m.  40, 
2  m.  30,  1  m.  50  pf.).  —  2V2  M.  SUinburg  (p.  289) ;  5V2  M.  Hattmatt. 

7  H.  SoMenhaim  (Railtoay  Hotel)  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Zimelthal,  through  which  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  (3>/4  M .) 
06erAo/ rinn),  (I'/s  M.)  Crav/thal,  and  (2V4  M.)  Bust;  the  valley  conUins 
quarries  of  white  sandstone.  Another  picturesque  walk  from  Dossenheim 
is  the  following  (numerous  way-posts) :  ascend  to  the  left  at  the  beginning 
of  the  woods  in  the  Zinzelthal  to  the  Taubentchlaff/elseny  above  Emols- 
heim;  then  cross  the  hill,  via  Beidemtadt  and  Langenthaler  Kreue,  to  the 
MicAaelskapelie,  above  St.  Johann  (p.  291),  and  to  Zabem  (p.  289). 

V/2  M.  Kauwailer  (Anker ^  V^olff^  good  red  wine)  possesses  two  interest- 
ing churches :  the  Protestant  St.  Adelphikirche,  a  late-Romanesque  edifice  of 
the  12th  cent. ,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  88.  Peter  and  Paul, 
Romanesque  with  later  additions,  restored  in  1862  (fine  crypt). 

IOV2  M.  Buchsweilar  (Sonne),  a  small  town  with  chemical  works  and 
scanty  remains  of  an  old  chateau ,  is  the  capital  of  the  old  ^Hanauer 
Landchen',  which  belonged  to  Hessen  -  Darmstadt  down  to  the  French 
revolution.  The  Bathhaus  and  the  Gymnasium,  the  latter  established  in 
1612,  possess  handsome  portals,  and  many  of  the  houses  have  Renaissance 
balconies.  An  admirable  view  is  obtained  from  the  Bcutberg  (1254  ft.), 
a  hill  of  curious  geological  formation,  abounding  in  coalj  its  fossils 
attracted  the  attention  of  Goethe.  The  Bastberg  is  the  centre  of  numer- 
ous local  traditions  and  was  long  believed  to  be  a  favourite  trysting-place 
of  witches  and  sorcerers.  —  From  Buehsweiler  omnibus  twice  daily  to 
(9^2  H.)  LUtteUteint  also  on  the  arrival  of  each  train  to  Jngweiler  (Lamm). 
The  village  of  Lichtenberg  (Bloch's  Inn),  SVa  M.  from  Ingweiler,  is  com- 
manded by  a  fort  destroyed  in  1870. 

14 H.  Obermodem;  17VsH.  Pfaffenhofen;  20V8M.  Neuburg,  At(23Vs  M.) 
Schweighausen  the  line  joins  the  Saarbriicken  and  Hagenau  railway  (p.  288). 
—  26  M.  Hagenauy  see  p.  268. 

F^om  Zabem  to  Sehlettstadt^  see  p.  302. 

Near  Zabem  the  railway  enters  the  narrow  and  picturesque 
valley  of  the  Zom^  and  intersects  the  Vosges  range  at  its  narrowest 
point ,  the  Zabemer  Senke ,  or  low  ground  between  Zabern  and 
Saarburg,  which  separates  the  Central  from  the  Lower  Vosges.  The 
line  runs  parallel  with  the  high-road,  the  brook,  and  the  Rhine- 
Marne-Canal.  Bridges,  lofty  embankments,  viaducts,  and  tunnels 
follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession. 

33  M.  Lfttzelbnrg  (Zur  Eiaenhahn ;  Starch) j  the  only  station  on 
this  part  of  the  line,  is  a  pleasant  village,  the  first  in  Lorraine.  It 
is  separated  by  the  Zorn  from  a  bold  rock  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 
the  Liitzelsteiny  or  Liitzelburger  SchlosSy  a  castle  dating  from  the 
11th  century,  under  which  runs  a  railway-tunnel. 

From  Liitzelburg  to  Pfalzburg^  d^Jt  M.,  tramway  in  '/«  br.  (fares,  50, 
35  pf.).  —  P/aleburg,  see  p.  291. 

From  Liitzelburg  to  Dagiburg,  3^2  hrs.,  see  p.  293. 

The  line  soon  quits  the  vaUey  of  the  Zorn.  A  handsome  bridge 
spans  the  river  with  one  of  its  arches,  and  with  the  other  the  Rhine- 
Mame-Canal,  which  here  turns  to  the  right  side  of  the  valley.  The 
railway  and  the  canal  then  penetrate  the  last  of  the  obstructing  hills 
by  means  of  the  curious  ArzweiUr  Tunnel^  2945  yds.  in  length. 


to  Saarhurg.  PFALZBURO.  42,  Route.    291 

4372  ^-  Saarburg  (^Hotel  dt  VAhondance^  good  cuisine),  on 
the  Saar^  a  small  and  ancient  town  enclosed  by  walls  and  gates, 
which  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  place  of  that  name  near 
Treves,  forms  the  boundary  between  the  two  languages,  French  being 
spoken  in  the  upper,  and  German  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town ; 
but  the  line  of  demarcation  is  less  strongly  defined  than  formerly. 

From  Saarbuso  to  Saabgemund,  34  M.,  railway  in  I'A-S'/*  liM-  (fares 
4  m.  40,  3  m.,  1  m.  90  pf).  To  Berthelmingen^  see  below.  10  M.  Finstingen; 
131/2  M.  Wol/tkirchen ;  ITVs  M.  aaarwerden;  18  M.  f^MX-JSvion  (Hdtel  du 
Commerce)^  a  place  consisting  of  the  two  small  towns  of  Bockenheim  and 
NeuSaarteirden.  At  Saar-Alben  diverges  the  Saargemund  and  Kancy  line 
mentioned  below.  Then  Willerwald,  Hambach,  Neuscheuem.  —  34  M.  Saar- 
gemUndy  see  p.  289. 

From  Saabbubq  to  Nancy,  52*^  M.,  railway  in  1*74-3  hrs.  Stations: 
Hemingen^  Rixingen  or  JUckicourti  Deutsch-Avricourt  (the  German  frontier- 
station  and  seat  of  the  custom-house;  connected  by  a  branch  with  Bens- 
dorf,  see  below),  Igney-Avrieourt  (the  French  frontier^station),  SmbemUnily 
Marainvillery  LunivxlUy  and  Nancy  (p.  167). 

At  Saarburg  the  line  to  Metz  begins,  and  follows  the  course  of 
the  8aar.  —  461/2  M.  SaaraUdorf;  61 V2  M.  Berthelmingen.  The 
line  now  diverges  to  the  left,  intersecting  a  hilly  and  wooded 
country.  Several  unimportant  stations :  i6M.  Lauterfingen;  22 M. 
Bensdorfy  the  junction  for  the  Saargemiind-Nancy  railway  and  for  a 
branch-line  to  Deutsch-Avricourt  (see  above);  21  M.  Rodalben- 
Bermeringen;  27  M.  Morchingen;  36  M.  Baudrecourt.  At  (41  M.) 
Remilly  (p.  162)  the  train  joins  the  line  from  Saarbriicken  to  Metz 
(p.  162). 

The  K.  YoBgds  MountftiiLS. 

Zabem  is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  among  these  mountains. 
—  From  Zabem  to  St.Johann  and  Doasenheimy  6M.,  returning  by  railway 
or  taking  the  train  to  Buchsweiler  (p.  290).  —  From  Zabem  to  P/alzburg, 
V/i  M.,  and  by  steam- tramway  to  LiUztlburg  in  '/2  hr.  (p.  290).  —  From 
Zabem  to  the  top  of  the  Qreiffetutein  and  back,  in  2-2V2  hrs.  —  From 
Zabem  to  the  railway-station  at  MUelburgy  vi&  Boh-Barr,  Oeroldseck  and 
Dagiburg^  about  24  M. 

About  21/2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Zabem  lies  the  village  of  St. 
Johann,  Fr.  St-Jean-des-Choux,  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine 
Abbey,  the  Romanesque  church  of  which,  re- consecrated  in  1127, 
but  partly  disfigured  in  the  18th  cent.,  deserves  notice.  The  St, 
Michelskapelle  near  this  commands  a  fine  view. 

From  Zabern  to  Pfalzburg,  6^/4  M.,  an  Interesting  road  up 
the  steep  slopes  of  the  *Pfalzburger  Steig'.  Pedestrians  turn  to 
the  left  and  pass  the  Karlssprungy  a  precipitous  rock,  above  which 
they  regain  the  road.  Pfalzbnrg  (1034  ft.  j  Walters)  is  a  small 
town,  situated  in  an  unattractive  lofty  plain,  and  fortified  down  to 
1872.  It  possesses  a  monument  to  Marshal  Mouton,  Comte  Lobau, 
one  of  Napoleon's  officers,  who  was  born  here  in  1770. 

To  the  W.  of  Zabern,  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty,  wooded  hill,  to 
the  right  of  the  entrance  of  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley  of  the 
Zorn,  rises  the  tower  of  the  ancient  fortress  of  Greiffenstein 
(1257  ft.).    From  Zabem  we  follow  the  high-road  for  3/^  M.  as  far 

19* 


292     RouU42.  HOH-BARR. 

as  the  kilomfetre-stone  1,7  (^or  along  the  bank  of  the  canal).  We  now 
cross  the  Zorn  and  the  railway,  pass  a  pleasant-looking  country- 
house,  and  ascend  through  the  wood  to  the  left.  The  path  (indi- 
cated by  flnger-posts)  leads  hence  to  the  summit  in  about  Yi  hour. 
The  ruins  consist  of  two  separate  parts,  chiefly  dating  from  the  12th 
and  13th  centuries,  and  command  a  pleasing  view.  On  the  slope 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  fortress,  and  about  iy4M.  distant,  is  the  natural 
Orotto  of  8t.  Vitus  (1280  ft),  formerly  a  chapel  and  hermitage  to 
which  pilgrimages  were  made.   Back  to  Zabern  in  8/4  hr. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Zomthal  rises  the  ruin  of  *Eoh-Barr, 
which  also  occupies  a  wooded  eminence.  Starting  from  Zabern,  we 
follow  the  Neue-Str.,  which  leaves  the  main  street  on  the  right, 
and  turn  to  the  left  into  the  Reungasse.  A  finger-post  soon  directs 
us  to  the  right,  and  keeping  to  the  left  where  the  road  forks,  we 
again  turn  to  the  right  past  the  country-house  (where  there  is  a 
finger-post) ,  and  reach  the  summit  in  50  minutes.  The  fortress 
was  built  in  the  10-1 1th  cent.,  enlarged  at  a  later  period,  and  restor- 
ed in  1583.  The  extensive  ruins  almost  appear  to  grow  out  of  the 
fantastic  sandstone  and  conglomerate  rocks.  The  small  Romanesque 
chapel,  in  the  court,  is  perhaps  of  the  11th  century.  Refreshments 
may  be  obtained  of  the  tenant.  The  highest  points  of  the  huge 
rocks  are  made  accessible  by  ladders  and  bridges.  Extensive  view 
of  the  Vosges,  and  the  plain  of  the  Rhine. 

Proceeding  in  the  same  direction,  crossing  the  top  of  the  hill 
(finger-post),  we  reach  (20  min.)  the  ruin  of  OroBB-Geroldseck 
(1578  ft),  with  a  huge  tower,  only  half  preserved,  and  an  exten- 
sive Rittersaal,  which  is  also  still  traceable.  —  About  1/2  M.  farther 
on  (finger-post)  is  the  unimportant  ruin  of  Klein- Geroldaeck,  com- 
manding a  fine  view. 

With  a  visit  to  Hoh-Barr  and  the  two  castles  of  Geroldseck  a 
more  extended  and  very  interesting  walk  among  the  hills  may  be 
combined.  A  few  paces  before  regaining  the  last-mentioned  finger- 
post we  diverge  by  a  path  to  the  left  leading  down  the  hill  in  Y4  hr. 
to  a  small  open  space  in  the  wood,  where  notices  on  the  trees  indi- 
cate the  routes  into  the  Zornthal,  to  St  Gall  to  the  left,  and  straight 
on  to  the  forester's  house  of  (20  min.)  Schaferplati  (1267  ft.). 
Thence  we  follow  the  road  which  descends  in  nearly  the  same  di- 
rection (S.)  and  which  Y2  M.  farther  (way-post)  terminates  in  a 
road  coming  from  Reinhardsmunster.  By  the  latter  we  ascend  to 
the  right,  and  after  10  min.  reach  another  road  coming  from  Rein- 
hardsmiinster,  which  leads  in  10  min.  to  the  forester's  house  of 
Haberacker  (1569  ft).  The  ruin  of  Ochsenatein  (1937  ft.),  which 
rises  above  the  forester's  house  (10  min.),  consists  of  three  towers, 
the  remains  of  which  look  like  parts  of  the  rocks.  The  summit  of 
the  rock  crowned  by  the  first  castle  has  been  rendered  accessible  by 
a  ladder  erected  by  the  *Vosges  Club*,  and  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  Hueb  and  Dagsburg. 


:^ /—Sal 


W*^ja^ajbvai»&       -^  --= 


eJ  tifl  oo 


H    ►i-M  . 


DAGSBURG.  42.  RouU,    293 

The  path,  often  difficult  to  trace  (numerous  f^uide-posts)  con- 
tinues through  wood,  and  passes  the  hamlets  of  (40  min.^  An  der 
JIardtj  beyond  which  is  a  deep  ravine,  and  Auf  der  Hueb  (Inn), 
the  church  of  which  has  been  conspicuous  for  some  time.  We  now 
descend  rapidly  and  then  ascend  again  hy  forest-paths,  in  1  hr.,  to 
the  Dagsbnrg  (1677  ft.),  French  Dabo,  a  lofty,  isolated  rock,  com- 
manding an  excellent  view.  The  castle,  *hewn  in  a  rock  and  in- 
habited by  certain  Counts  of  Leiningen-Dagsperg'  (Merian,  1663), 
was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1676,  and  has  left  scarcely  a  trace 
behind.  On  its  site  stands  a  chapel,  erected  in  1828,  in  honour  of 
Pope  Leo  IX. ,  who  was  bom  here  (?).  At  the  foot  of  the  oastle-hill 
lies  (V4  hr.)  the  village  of  Dagsburg  (Bour's  Inn). 

The  traveller  is  recommended  to  proceed  from  Dagsburg  to 
(83/4  M.)  Lutzelburg.  The  road  follows  the  N.E.  slope  of  the  Balltr- 
steinkopf  to  (3  M.)  Schdferhof  and  (1 M.)  'Neumuhl^  where  it  reaches 
the  valley  of  the  rapid  Zorn,  a  beautiful  dale  enclosed  by  wooded 
mountains.  Passing  several  mills  we  come  to  (2  M.)  Sparsbrod, 
The  road  is  next  reached  near  the  railway-bridge  (Y2  M.),  and  then, 
V/2  M.  farther,  the  station  of  Liitzelburg  (p.  290). 

Those  who  desire  to  proceed  farther  S.  after  visiting  Hoh-Barr  and 
Geroldseck,  descend  to  the  left  of  the  finger-post  beyond  the  forester's 
house  of  Schaferplatz  (see  above)  to  (2V4  H.)  BeinhardtmansUr  ^  and 
then  follow  the  new  road,  which,  at  a  point  about  Vs  M.  beyond  Beinhards- 
munster,  divides  into  two  branches,  that  to  the  right  leading  to  (2V2  M) 
Haberacker  (see  above),  that  to  the  left  to  Obersteigen  (and  Engenthal).  We 
follow  the  latter,  and  by  taking  the  footpath  to  the  left  at  the  4th  kilometre- 
stone,  about  3V2  M.  from  Beinhardsmiinster,  and  passing  the  forester''8 
house  Weihermatt^  we  cut  off  the  long  windings  which  the  road  describes 
before  reaching  Obersteigeit,  (IV4  hr.  from  Beinhardsmiinster).  Wangenburg 
(p.  304)  is  reached  in"*/4  hr.  more,  through  wood.  We  descend  a  steep 
footpath  to  the  road,  turn  to  the  left,  and  cross  a  bridge,  where  there 
are  two  paths,  by  either  of  which  we  may  ascend  to  the  road  at  the  top, 
and  then  keep  to  the  right. 

Fbom  Dagsbusg  to  Wanosnbubo,  a  pleasant  walk  of  2-2V2  hrs.  The 
new  path,  furnished  with  guide-posts,  skirts  the  cliffs  of  Dagsburg  crown- 
ed by  a  chapel,  and  reaches  (3M.)  the  Schleiffe^  a  clearing  in  the  woods, 
where  the  road  makes  a  wide  curve.  Continuing  in  the  same  direction 
by  the  path  indicated  by  guide-posts,  we  descend  into  the  Engen'haly 
and  then  ascending  to  the  right  reach  Wangenburg  (p.  304)  in  1  hr.  more. 
—  Instead  of  entering  the  Engenthal,  we  may  proceed  to  the  W.  past 
the  Rossiopf  to  the  Schneethal,  and  thence  ascend  direct  to  the  Sehneeberg 
(p.  304). 

43.  From  Strassbnrg  to  B&le. 

Comp.  Mapiy  pp,  300,  314. 

89  M.  Bail  WAT.  express  in  23/4-3V4  hrs.,  ordinary  trains  in  51/4  hrs.  (fares 
11  m.  30,  7  m.  50,  4  m.  80  pf. ;  express,  12  m.  90,  9  m.  10  pf.). 

The  line  describes  a  wide  curve  round  the  town,  and  then 
proceeds  towards  the  S.  Near  Konigshofen^  where  the  capitulation 
of  Strassbnrg  was  signed  in  a  railway -van  in  Sept.,  1870,  the 
junction-line  to  Kehl  (p.  342)  diverges  to  the  left ;  that  to  Rothau 
(p.  300)  diverges  to  the  right  a  little  farther  on.  On  the  left  the 
tower  of  the  cathedral  long  remains  visible,  on  the  right  we  observe 


294     Route  43.  SCHLETTSTADT.        From  Strassburg 

the  new  fortifications  of  Wolfisheim  (Fort  Prince  Bismarck)  and 
Lingolsheim  (Fort  Crown  Prince  of  Saxony).  Then  on  the  left  the 
outworks  of  (41/2  M.)  Illkirch  (Fort  Werder)  and  of  Grafenstaden 
(Fort  V.  d.  Tann),  the  latter  place  possessing  important  machine- 
factories.  7M.  Oeispolsheim ;  8Y2M.  Fegersheim;  IO72M.  Limers- 
heim;  I33/4  M.  Erstein  (Lowe),  a  town  with  4100  inhabitants. 

The  line  now  runs  nearer  the  mountains.  The  Odilienberg 
(p.  306),  with  its  white  convent,  is  long  a  conspicuous  object.  The 
land  is  fertile  and  well-cultivated,  tobacco  being  one  of  the  principal 
crops.  The  hill-slopes  are  covered  with  vineyards ,  the  best  wine 
being  produced  at  Rappoltsweiler,  Tiirkheim,  Thann,  etc. 

15V«  M.  Matzenheim;  18  M.  Benfeld;  21 V4  M.  Kogenheim; 
231/2  M.  Ebersheim.  On  a  hill  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Leberthal  rise  the  old  castles  of  Ortenburg  andRamstein(seep.  304), 

28  M.  SchlettBtadt  (*Adler  ^  Bock ;  Ooldnes  Lamm,  the  nearest 
to  the  station,  well  spoken  of),  a  town  with  9,000  inhab.,  once  a 
free  city  of  the  German  Empire,  attained  the  height  of  its  prosperity 
during  the  13-16th  centuries.  It  was  fortified  by  Vauban  after  its 
capture  by  the  French,  but  was  taken  by  the  Germans  on  25th  Oct. 
1870.  The  church  of  8t.  Fides,  founded  in  1094  by  the  Hohenstau- 
fen,  but  completed  at  a  later  period,  an  edifice  in  the  Romanesque 
and  Transitional  styles,  with  a  porch,  is  a  memorial  of  the  town's 
former  importance.  So,  likewise,  is  the  cathedral  of  8t,  George, 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  Gothic  architecture  in  Alsace,  a  cru- 
ciform church  with  an  octagonal  tower,  founded  at  the  beginning  of 
the  13th  cent.,  and  lately  restored.  The  choir  was  begun  in  1415. 
A  new  barrack  has  been  erected  at  the  railway-station.  —  Railway 
to  Markirch,  see  p.  308;  to  Barr,  see  p.  302. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  halfway  up  the  hill,  we  observe  the 
ruined  castle  of  Kinzheim  (p.  309).  32  M.  St.  Pilt;  the  village 
(Krone)  is  about  3  M.  from  the  station,  and  is  commanded  by  the 
ruins  of  the  lofty  Hohen-Konigsburg  (p.  310);  farther  on  is  the 
Tanncliel  (p.  311). 

341/2  M.  Sappoltgweiler,  also  3M.  from  the  station,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  a  steam-tramway,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains.   Above  it  rise  three  castles  (p.  311). 

361/4  M.  Ostheim;  SSM.  Bennweier,  to  the  right  of  which  is  the 
opening  of  the  Weissthal  (Kaysersberg,  see  p.  313).  To  the  right 
is  the  Galz  (p.  316),  beside  it  the  Drei  Mhren  (p.  315),  and  be- 
hind are  the  Kleine  and  Grosse  Hohnack  (p.  316). 

42V2M.  Colmar  (see  Plan,  p.  292).  —  Hoteli.  Dkux  Clkfs (Pi.  x •, 

D,  2),  R.  2V2  m.,  A.  50,  omn.  60  pf.  •,  *Schwabze8  Lamm,  nearest  the  sta- 
tion*, Van  Briesen,  with  restaurant,  R.  2  m.,  B.  80  pf.  —  Beer  at  Molly's, 
.Tudengasse,  in  the  Cafi  Champ  de  Mart  and  the  Caf4  Brand.  —  P&t^s  de 
foie  gras  at  8cherer^$,  Pfaflfengasse. 

Stbam-Tkamwat  to  Kaysersherg  and  Sehnierlaeh,  see  p.  312. 

Colmar,  a  town  with  26,000  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  Upper 
Alsace  and  the  seat  of  the  court  of  appeal  for  Alsace  and  Ger- 


to  Bdle.  COLMAR.  43.  Route,     295 

man  Lorraine.  It  Is  situated  on  the  Laueh,  a  tributary  of  the  111, 
and  the  Logelbaek  (p.  315),  which  flow  through  the  town,  and 
is  2^2  M.  from  the  mountains  and  10  M.  from  the  Rhine,  nearly 
in  a  straight  line  with  Freiburg  in  the  Breisgau.. 

Colmar  waa  declared  a  free  town  of  the  Empire  by  the  Emp.  Frede- 
rick II.  in  1226,  and  became  so  powerful  that  in  1474  its  inhabitants  re- 
fused admittance  to  Charles  the  Bold,  who  by  a  treaty  with  Archduke 
Sigmund  of  Austria  had  become  master  of  Alsace,  the  Breisgau,  and  the 
Sundgau  from  1470  to  1476.  In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  it  was  occupied 
by  the  Swedes ,  and  in  1673  by  the  French.  In  1697  it  was  awarded  to 
Louis  XIV.  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck.  —  In  the  Rhenish  history  of  art 
Colmar  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  having  been  the  scene  of  the  la- 
bours of  Martin  Schongauer  (b.  about  1420,  probably  at  Colmar;  d.  1488  at 
Colmar),  a  descendant  of  an  Augsburg  family  of  artists.  He  was  sumamed 
'Hipsch  Martin'  from  his  beautiful  (hUbtch)  paintings,  a  sobriquet  after- 
wards converted  into  ^Martin  Sch6n\  He  was  still  more  eminent  as  an 
engraver  than  as  a  painter,  and  was  certainly  the  greatest  German  artist 
of  the  l5th  century. 

The  road  from  the  station  leads  direct  to  the  pleasant  grounds 
in  the  Champ  de  Mars,  or  Marsfeld,  in  which  &* Fountain  Monument 
(PI.  5),  a  statue  in  bronze  on  a  lofty  stone  pedestal,  surrounded  by 
figures  representing  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  by  the  Colmar 
sculptor  F.  A.  Bartholdy,  was  erected  in  1857  to  Admiral  Bruat 
(d.  1855),  a  native  of  Colmar.  The  large  building  to  the  S.  is  the 
Bezirk8prd8idium(Pl.  2),  or  office  of  the  President  of  the  district 
(formerly  the  Prefecture).  The  Monument  of  Marshal  Rapp  (PI.  7), 
another  native  of  Colmar  (1772-1821),  is  also  by  Bartholdy. 

In  striking  contrast  to  this  quite  modern  part  of  the  town  is 
the  inner  town  with  its  narrow,  picturesque  streets,  and  numerous 
handsome  secular  buildings  of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries  (the 
most  important  are  marked  in  the  plan).  In  the  centre  rises  the 
Churehof8t.Martin(yi.ii  ;  C,2,3),  a  fine  cruciform  Gothic  building, 
with  marks  of  French  influence,  begun  in  1237.  The  choir  dates 
from  1350.  Of  the  two  W.  towers,  that  on  the  S.  alone  is  partly 
completed.  The  S.  side-portal,  with  interesting  sculptures,  merits 
examination.  The  sacristy,  adjoining  the  choir  on  the  right,  con- 
tains a  'Madonna  in  an  arbour  of  roses'  by  Martin  Schongauer ,  an 
excellent,  though  harsh  work,  the  most  important  production  of 
the  master,  now  partly  painted  over. 

The  buildings  of  the  old  Dominican  Monastery  of  Unterlindenj 
founded  in  1232,  famous  in  the  history  of  the  German  Mysticism 
of  the  13th  and  14th  cent.,  and  suppressed  during  the  French  Revo- 
lution, were  restored  in  1849-58,  and,  together  with  the  early- 
Gothic  church,  have  been  tastefully  converted  into  a  *  Museum 
(PI.  12;  open  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  2-6,  winter  2-4,  gratis;  on 
other  days,  8-12  and  2-6,  for  a  fee). 

We  first  enter  the  fine  early -Gothic  *Cloi8TBR8,  which  contain  a 
collection  of  Roman-Gallic  and  medieeval  stone  montiments,  including  a 
Roman  roof-shaped  tombstone  from  Kempel  (So.  18),  and  a  number  of 
interesting  Roman  tomb-reliefs  from  Horburg;  stones  dedicated  to  Mer- 
cury etc.  In  the  centre  is  a  fine  Monument  to  Schongauer  by  Bartholdy. 
Adjoining  the  cloisters  on  the  E.  is  a  room  containing  plaster  casts. 


296     RouU43.  EGISH£IM.  From  Strasthurg 

The  chief  point  of  interest  in  the  mnAeum  is  the  ^Collection  of  Early 
OBBHA.H  Pictures,  partly  brought  from  the  Monastery  of  Isenheim  (p.  319), 
and  now  preserved  in  the  choir  of  the  church  to  the  S.  of  the  cloisters. 
The  following  are  the  principal  works:  182-185.  Martin  Schongauer,  Two 
small  altar- wings :  inside,  the  Virgin  adoring  the  Child,  and  St.  Anthony  \ 
outside,  the  Annunciation ;  at  the  side,  179.  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria, 
181.  St.  Lawrence,  with  scenes  of  martyrdom  on  the  outside,  dated  1506, 
from  Isenheim  \  115-130.  Sixteen  scenes  from  the  Passion,  formerly  in  the 
Dominican  church  at  Colmar,  executed  in  Schongauer's  studio  but  of 
little  artistic  value;  137-143.  Caspar  Isenmann^  Scenes  from  the  Passion 
(1462);  161.  Unknown  MoMter^  Virgin,  with  the  dead  body  of  Christ,  on  the 
wings  Annunciation  and  Adoration  of  the  Infant  Christ.  The  three  painted 
carved  wooden  ♦Figures  of  SS.  Anthony,  Jerome,  and  Augustine,  were 
part  of  the  famous  altar  at  Isenheim.  The  paintings  by  Mathiat  OrUneteald 
(d.  after  1529),  which  formed  the  wings  of  the  same  altar  (Nos.  163-171) 
are  also  preserved  here :  inside,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  SS.  Paul  and 
Anthony  in  the  wilderness,  ♦St.  Sebastian,  and  *St.  Anthony  \  outside.  Virgin 
and  Child  (Monastery  of  Isenheim  in  the  background),  the  Resurrection 
of  Christ,  and  Christ  on  the  Cross,  surrounded  by  SS.  Magdalene,  Mary, 
John  the  Evangelist,  and  John  the  Baptist.  Another  piece  of  painted 
wood-carving,  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles  (according  to  the  inscription  by 
De§.  Btyehel^  1493),  is  also  from  Isenheim.  —  The  nave  of  the  church 
contains  a  large  Roman  mosaic  pavement  from  Bergheim,  several  cork- 
models  of  buildings  in  Alsace,  and  a  number  of  modern  paintings.  —  On 
the  upper  floor  of  the  monastery  is  a  collection  of  smaller  antique  objects, 
including  Roman,  Ctermanic,  and  Qallic  gold  and  silver  ornaments  and 
weapons ;  valuable  Roman  gold  ornaments  from  a  tumulus  at  Ensisheim  \ 
mediaeval  objects;  a  gold-mounted  silver  goblet,  etc.,  and  Gallic  gold  and 
silver  articles  found  at  Drei  .tflhren  (p.  315)  and  Ensisheim  (1873) ;  a  Na- 
tural History  CoUeeHon,  an  Ethnographical  Colleetiony  a  Cabinet  of  Engrav- 
ings^ and  the  Library. 

Railway  from  Colmar  to  MUnster,  see  p.  315 :  to  Altbreisach,  see  p.  350. 
—  Steam-tramways  to  Winzenheim  (3  M. ;  p.  316),  to  8ehnierl(»eh  (p.  350), 
and  to  Horburg  C^/a  M.),  on  the  road  to  Neubreisach. 

Beyond  Colmar  "we  observe  on  the  right  the  castle  of  Hohenlands- 
herg  (see  p.  316). 

45  M.  Egisheim.  Above  the  village ,  which  is  1  M.  from  the 
station,  stands  the  castle  of  Hohen - Egisheim^  or  Dreien-  Egisheinij 
with  its  three  towers,  which  have  been  for  some  time  visible  in  the 
distance  :  the  Dagsburg,  of  the  12th,  and  the  Wahlenburg  and  Wick- 
mund  of  the  11th  cent.,  known  as  the  ^Drei'Exen\  and  claiming 
(like  the  Dagsburg  near  Zabem,  p.  293)  to  be  the  birthplace  of  Pope 
Leo  IX.,  who  was  a  Count  of  Egishelm  and  Dagsburg.  The  route  from 
the  station  to  the  castle  is  by  the  village  of  Hausemy  whence  a  foot- 
path ascends  rapidly  through  wood.  —  The  descent  may  be  made  to 
the  S.  by  the  Augustine  abbey  of  Marbaeh  (now  a  farm),  founded  In 
1094,  of  which  a  tower,  part  of  the  church-choir,  and  a  few  Ro- 
manesque columns  of  the  cloisters  are  still  extant  (comp.  p.  316). 

47  M.  Herlisheim.  —  5072  M.  Bnfttcli  (*BarJ,  the  Rubeacum  of 
the  Romans.  The  *Chureh  of  8U  ArbogaH,  a  cruciform  vaulted 
basilica,  with  an  octagonal  tower  over  the  centre  of  the  cross,  erect- 
ed at  the  close  of  the  12th  cent.,  partly  in  the  Transition,  and  part- 
ly in  the  Gothic  style,  has  lately  been  restored.  The  choir  dates 
from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century.  Close  to  the  town  is  a 
hill,  which  was  formerly  crowned  by  the  castle  of  Uenburg^  one  of 


to  BdU.  MULHAUSEN.  43.  Route.     297 

the  oldest  in  Alsace,  frequently  occupied  by  the  Merovingian- 
Franconian  kings ;  an  insignificant  modern  building  stands  on  the 
old  foundations.    The  town  possesses  an  agricultural  school. 

Sulznuttt,  a  small  watering-place  in  a  pretty  side-valley ,  lies  6  H.  to 
the  W.  of  Rufach.  Diligence  thrice  daily  in  Vi  hour.  The  water  resem- 
bleA  that  of  Selters,  and  is  much  in  vogae  in  Alsace.    Pension  5  m. 

53  Vs  M-  Merxheim,  To  the  right,  in  the  distance,  is  the  Rlelne 
Belchen  (p.  318),  and  beyond  it  the  Gebweiler  Belchen  fp.  321). 

—  58  m.  BoUvpeilerj  the  junction  for  Lautenbach  (see  p.  319).  The 
Baumann  Arboricultural  8chooU  here  are  the  oldest  and  most  ex- 
tensiYe  in  Alsace. 

Post-omnibufl  thrice  daily  in  1  hr.  from  Bollweiler  to  Ewriahftiin,  a 
small  town  with  3200  inhab.,  5  M.  to  the  E.  It  was  once  the  capital 
of  the  Austrian  possessions  in  Alsace,  and  is  interesting  for  its  specimens 
of  secular  edifices  of  the  i5th  and  16th  centuries,  chiefly  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  especially  the  imposing  Rathhaus  with  its  handsome  bartizan  and 
the  Hotel  zur  Krone.  The  former  contains  a  meteoric  stone,  which  fell 
here  in  1492.  —  Steam  tramway  to  M iilhausen  (10  M. ;  see  below). 

The  Thuf  is  now  crossed.  —  61  M.  WitUUheim;  ^b^j^HL,  Lutter- 
back  (junction  for  Masmiinster,  p.  322).  Here  the  train  leaves  the 
mountains,  turns  to  the  E.,  and  reaches  (67  M.)  Domaehy  a  suburb 
of  Miilhausen,  with  numerous  manufactories.  The  photographs 
of  M.  Braun  of  Dornach  are  well  known  in  France  and  Germany. 

69  M.  HfUhaiuejl.  —  Hotels.  ^Cbntkal  HStel,  with  good  restaurant; 
Hotel  Wagner,  R.  1  m.  60  pf. ;  HdTEi.  du  Xobd,  to  the  right  of  the  station. 

Beatauranta.  At  the  station :  Federmann,  Cafi  Moll^  l^euquartier-Platz. 

—  Beer:  Luxlwf^  Wildemannsgasse ;  Dumeney^  at  the  Baseler-Thor. 

Cab,  1  m.  60  pf.  per  hour.  —  Steam-Tramways  in  several  streets,  and 
to  Ensisheim  (see  above). 

Miilhausen ,  in  the  Sundgau ,  once  a  free  city  of  the  German 
Empire,  and  from  1515  to  1798  allied  with  the  Swiss  Confed- 
eration, is  now  the  most  important  manufacturing  town  In  Alsace 
(cotton  goods,  chemicals,  paper,  iron-wares,  machinery,  etc.).  It 
is  the  seat  of  government  for  the  district,  with  a  provincial  tribunal 
and  69,600  inhabitants. 

Leaving  the  station,  which  lies  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  and 
proceeding  a  few  paces  towards  the  right,  we  cross  the  canal,  and 
enter  the  New  Quabtbb  of  the  town,  with  its  large  but  unat- 
tractive houses,  many  of  which  have  wide,  arched  porticoes  on  the 
ground-floor.  Here  is  situated  the  large  building  of  the  ^SoeiiU  In- 
dustrielle\  an  association  formed  in  1825  for  the  promotion  of 
industrial  and  scientific  interests  of  all  kinds.  It  contains  natural 
history  collections  and  a  library.  The  Museum,  in  the  adjacent 
Guteleutgasse,  established  by  the  Soci^ttf  Industrielle  in  1882,  con- 
tains an  admirable  collection  of  BomanO'Celtic  Antiquities ,  most 
of  them  found  in  Alsace,  and  the  JSistotical  Museum^  a  collection 
of  objects  illustrative  of  local  history.  On  the  second  floor  is  a 
Picture  Qallery^  with  good  specimens  of  modern  French  masters. 

Proceeding  straight  on,  we  enter  the  Baseler-Thor- Strasse,  the 
main  street  of  the  Old  Town.  A  street,  diverging  to  the  left,  leads 
to  the  Rathhaus-Platz  ,  In  which  is  the  Rathhaus,  erected  in  1552 


298     Route  43.  ALTKIRCH. 

after  a  Are,  and  restored  in  1846,  a  solitary  witness  of  the  ancient 
importance  of  Miilbausen  as  a  free  imperial  city.  The  whole  of  the 
facade  was  painted  by  Christian  Vacksterffer  of  Colmar.  Opposite 
the  Rathhaus  is  the  modern-Gothic  Protestant  Churchy  with  a  very 
showy  facade.  —  The  School  of  Design,  Belfort-Str. ,  contains  an 
Interesting  and  extensive  collection  of  patterns  and  desigiis  for 
dress  goods,  chiefly  produced  by  Mtilhansen  firms. 

The  Arbbitbrstadt,  or  artizans'  colony,  founded  in  1853  by  the 
*Socitft^  des  Cittfs  OuvriSres' ,  a  society  established  by  the  Mayor 
Dollfuss  to  improve  the  condition  of  the  working  classes,  lies  to  the 
N.E.  of  the  old  town  (follow  the  main  road  and  then  turn  to  the 
left).  It  now  consists  of  about  1000  houses  of  one  or  two  stories, 
each  accommodating  one  or  two  families,  and  provided  with  a  small 
garden.  There  are  also  large  bath  and  washing-houses,  an  infant- 
school,  etc.,  connected  with  the  colony.  The  houses  are  sold  to  arti- 
zans almost  at  cost  price  (2500-3000  m.),  payable  by  instalments. 
The  value  of  the  houses  already  built  amounts  to  about  125,000 £., 
of  which  sum  fully  three-fourths  have  been  paid  off.  —  Near  the 
station  rises  the  Rebberg,  with  several  pretty  villas,  and  higher  up 
Is  the  Tannenwald,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

From  MClhausen  to  Mullhkim  in  Baden,  13  M.,  railway  in  V*  ^'« 
(fares  2  m.  10,  1  m.  50  pf.,  1  m.).  —  3  M.  Napoleonsinsel^  on  the  Rhine- 
Bhone-Canal ,  with  large  paper-mills.  The  train  then  traverses  the  ex- 
tensive Hartwald.  7  M.  OrUnMltte.  9  M.  Bamenheim^  2Va  M.  to  the  S. 
of  which  lies  Ottmanheim ^  with  a  fine  Romanesque  octagonal  chapel, 
consecrated  in  the  middle  of  the  11th  cent.,  and  belonging  to  a  suppressed 
Benedictine  abbey.  It  is  built  on  the  model  of  the  Carlovlngian  cathedral 
at  Aiz-la-Chapelle.  The  Rhine  is  then  crossed.  12  M.  Neuenhurg.  14  M. 
MUllheimy  see  p.  361. 

From  Mulhausbn  to  Belfort  ,  30  M.  ,  railway  in  1-3  hrs.  (fares 
4  m.  20,  3  m.,  2  m.  10  pf.  ^  express  4  m.  60,  3  m.  40  pf.).  The  railway  as- 
cends the  smiling  valley  of  the  III.  There  were  formerly  about  20  castles 
in  the  district  traversed"  by  this  line,  which,  with  numerous  villages,  have 
all  been  destroyed  by  the  ravages  of  war.  At  many  points  traces  of  Roman 
fortifications  and  roads  are  noticeable.  —  SVi  M.  Zillisheim;  6  M.  Jllfurt. 

IOV2  M.  Altkirch  (H6tel  KuhUr;  Schwarzer  Bdr;  Cafi  Bigelin), 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  is  the  capital  of  the  Snndgau 
in  the  narrower  sense  of  the  name.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  new  Romanesque  church.  Pottery  is  extensively  manu- 
factured here.  Almost  the  whole  of  th©  Sundgau  belonged  to  the  Counts 
of  Pfirt,  whose  castle,  now  in  ruins,  is  in  the  Jura  Mts.,  above  the  little 
town  of  PJirt  (*Stadt  New  York),  14  M.  to  the  S.  of  Altkirch.  An  omnibus 
runs  from  Altkirch  to  Pfirt  thrice  daily;  and  the  pedestrian  may  reach 
it  by  a  picturesque  route  via  Hirsingen.  From  Pfirt  we  may  proceed  to 
Bale,  or  by  the  iron-foundry  of  LUtzel,  formerly  an  abbey,  to  JDelsberg  or 
BeUmont,  on  the  Jura  railway. 

18  M.  Dammerhireh  y^  Fr.  Dannemarie.  The  train  then  crosses  an  im- 
posing viaduct  with  3o  arches,  and  reaches  (21  M.)  Alt-I^'Ungtevol ,  Fr. 
Montr etix-  Vieux,  the  German  frontier-station.  23  M.  PetitnOroix,  the 
French  frontier-station.  —  31 M.  Belfert  or  Bifori  iHdtel  de  VAncienne  Poste^ 
R.  3  fr.)y  a  town  and  fortress  on  the  Savoureusey  built  by  Vauban  under 
Louis  XrV.,  and  memorable  for  its  long  siege  by  the  Germans  from  3rd 
Nov.,  1870,  to  16th  Feb.,  1871. 

As  far  as  (721/2  M.)/?ta;fc«im  the  train  continues  to  run  towards  the 
;  it  then  turns  to  the  S.E.     The  soil  Is  gravelly  and  sterile. 


THE  VOSGES.  44.  Route,     299 

73  M.  Babsheim;  79  M.  Sierentz;  81  M.  BaHenheim.  Beyond 
(86  M.)  St.  Ludwig  (or  8t.  Louis)  the  line  enters  Switzerland. 

About  3V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  St.  Ludwig  is  the  famous  piscicultural 
establishment  of  HUningen^  which  since  1852  has  been  of  great  service  in 
replenishing  the  waters  of  Alsace  with  fish.  Thousands  of  young  salmon, 
bred  in  its  tanks,  are  placed  every  year  in  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle, 
and  immense  quantities  of  trout  and  other  fish  in  the  smaller  streams  of 
Upper  Alsace.  A  visit  is  most  interesting  in  the  breeding-season  (Jan.- 
April).    The  small  town  of  Hiiningen  (see  below)  is  3  M.  distant. 

From  St.  LudWig  to  Leopoldshohk  (in  Baden),  5V2M.,  railway  in  V4hr. 
(fares  65,  50,  35  pf.).  —  4  M.  Hiiningen  (H6tel  de  Paris),  formerly  a  for- 
tress, constructed  by  Vauban  under  Louis  XIV.  (1679),  and  dismantled  by 
the  Austrians  in  1815.  —  51/2  M.  LeopoldiMhe^  see  p.  852. 

89  M.  B&le,  see  p.  352. 

44.  The  Central  and  Upper  Vosges  Mts. 

The  Vosges  (Lat.  Mons  VoseguSy  Ger.  Vogesen,  or  more  correctly 
Wasigen  or  Wasgenwald)  form  the  western  boundary  of  the  basin 
of  the  Upper  RMne,  and  run  parallel  with  the  Black  Forest,  with 
which  they  for  the  most  part  coincide  in  orological  and  geological 
characteristics.  They  are  "generally  divided  into  the  Upper,  Central, 
and  Lower  Vosges.  The  Uppbr,  or  High  Vosgbs  Mts.  are  separated 
from  the  Jura  on  the  S.  by  the  pass  of  Belfort,  and  on  the  N.  extend 
to  the  Leberthal  (p.  308).  They  are  almost  entirely  of  granitic 
formation ,  the  granite  being  adjoined  towards  the  N.  by  the  red 
sandstone  which  prevails  in  the  Central  and  Lower  Vosges.  The 
highest  summits  are  the  Gehweiler  Belchen  (4677  ft. ;  p.  321),  the 
Hoheneck  (4480  ft. ;  p.  317),  the  RothenbachJcopf  (A32^  ft. ;  p.  319), 
and  the  Kleine  Belchen  or  Kahle  Wasen  (4180  ft. ;  p.  318).  The 
Cbnthal  Vosgbs  Mts.  stretch  from  the  Leberthal  to  the  Zaberner 
Senke  (p.  290),  the  highest  points  being  the  Hbc^/'e^d  (3590  ft. ; 
p.  308),  the  Donon  (3313ft. ;  p.  301),  the  Climont  (3196  ft.),  and 
the  Odilienberg  (2470  ft.  and  2687  ft. ;  p.  306),  a  spur  running 
out  towards  the  W.  The  Lowbb,  or  Nobthbbn  Vosgbs  run  north- 
wards from  the  Zaberner  Senke  as  far  as  the  Queich  (p.  266) ;  and 
they  are  sometimes  considered  to  include  the  Haardt  Mts.  and  the 
Donnersberg,  and  thus  to  extend  to  the  Nahe. 

Up  to  a  height  of  about  3600  ft.  these  mountains  are  covered 
with  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  pine.  The  highest  sum- 
mits, on  which  only  grass  grows,  afford  excellent  pasturage,  and 
are  extensively  used  for  cattle  -  rearing  and  dairy -farming.  The 
slopes  are  thickly  strewn  with  ancient  castles,  and  on  the  side 
towards  Alsace  are  covered  with  vineyards,  yielding  wine  of  good 
quality  (comp.  p.  294).  In  the  densely -populated  valleys,  iron- 
working,  ore-smelting,  weaving,  and  other  industries  are  actively 
prosecuted.  As  in  the  Black  Forest,  there  are  a  few  mineral  springs 
here;  but  the  Vosges  Mts.  can  scarcely  compete  with  the  sister 
range  in  point  of  scenery,  as  they  lack  the  abundant  brooks  which 
impart  such  a  charm  to  the  valleys  of  the  latter.    There  are,  how 


300    Route  44.  MOLSHEIM.  The  Central 

ever,  several  beautiful  points,  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  particularly 
the  following :  the  vicinity  of  Zabem^  the  Odilienberg^  the  Hohen- 
Kbnigahurg^  the  castles  of  Rappoltsweiler,  the  Miinsterthal  with  the 
Schlucht,  the  St.  Amarinthal  and  the  MaimuTuter-Thal.  There  are 
good  inn*  (R.l-lV2ni.,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  Incl.  wine  2-21/2  m.,  S.  incl. 
wine  172-^  m.)  at  the  points  most  frequently  visited. 

The  ^Vosges  Club\  instituted  in  1872,  has  done  much  to  facilitate  a 
tuur  among  these  mountains  by  the  construction  of  paths,  the  erection 
of  finger-posts ,  etc.  The  best  map  of  the  district  is  that  of  the  German 
Ordnance  Survey^  on  a  scale  of  1  :  80,000  (36  sheets  at  60  pf.  each). 

I.  Thb  Gbntkal  V08GB8  Mts. 

The  separate  excursions  from  Strassburg  described  in  this  Route  may 
easily  be  combined  as  follows  so  as  to  form  an  uninterrupted  tour  through 
this  interesting  district,  the  N.  part  of  which  is  described  at  p.  291,  and  the 
S.  part  in  Route  b.  (p.  302).  1st  day.  From  Strassburg  by  railway  to  Romans- 
weiler;  walk  or  by  diligence  in  IV2  hr.  to  Wungenhurg  (or  from  Zabern  over 
the  Hohbarr  to  Wangenburg  in  4  hrs.,  comp.  p.  292);  thence  by  the  (IV2 
hr.)  Schneeberg  and  Nideck  io  (2Vs  hrs)  NiederJuulach^  7-8  hrs.  in  all. 
—  2nd  day.  On  foot  to  Schloss  Oirbaden  3  hrs. ,  Odilienberg  2Vs  hrs., 
Mennelstein  and  back  IV2  hr.,  in  all  7  hrs.  —  3rd  day.  To  Hohwald  2  hrs., 
to  Weiler  by  the  Pelage  3  hrs.,  Weilerihal  IV2  br.  (railway-station,  see 
p.  309).  The  traveller  desirous  of  proceeding  to  the  Hohen-Eonigsburg 
(p.  310)  towards  the  S.  will  find  good  quarters  for  the  night  at  Weiler. 

a.  From  Strassburg  to  Bothau  by  HolBheim.  —  Nideck. 

29  M.  Railway  in  2V4  hrs. ;  fares  3  m.  60,  2  m.  40,  1  m.  60  pf. 

Straasburgy  see  p.  279.  —  Several  unimportant  stations. 

13  M.  Holsheim  (Ooldner  Pflug ;  Zwei  Schlussel)^  a  small  town 
on  the  Breusch ,  at  the  foot  of  the  Vosges .  a  fortified  place  in  the 
middle  ages.  In  the  handsome  'Fleischhalle'  here  the  forms  of  the 
Renaissance  are  combined  with  the  articulation  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. The  church  (formerly  the  property  of  the  Jesuits)  is  partly 
Gothic  and  partly  in  the  Renaissance  style.  —  Molsheim  is  the 
junction  for  the  Zabern  and  Schlettstadt  line  (p.  303). 

The  Rothau  line  ascends  the  pleasant  green  valley  of  the 
Breusch ,  which  is  enclosed  by  wooded  heights  and  rocks  of  red 
porphyry.    The  stream  descends  from  the  Winberg  or  Climont. 

15  M.  Mutzig  (Zur  Post),  a  small  town  of  2600  inhab.,  possesses 
a  manufactory  of  weapons,  once  more  important  than  it  is  now.  — 
17  m.  Gressweiler.  To  Schloss  Girbaden,  see  p.  304.  —  18^2  M. 
HeUigenberg,  whence  another  good  path  leads  to  Girbaden. 

2OY2  M.  Vrmatt  (Wahlmann  ,  at  the  station ,  well  spoken  of; 
Chasse  Forcee,  in  the  village)  is  the  starting-point  for  a  visit  to 
the  Haslachthal  and  the  Nideck  (see  p.  302). 

23  M.  Liitzelhausen  (Zwei  Schliissel,  good),  a  large  village, 
whence  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  via  the  Grande  Cdte  (in 
German  Langenberg')  and  the  Noll  to  the  Alberschweiler  Thal^  or 
valley  of  the  Rothe  Saar  (8  hrs.).  —  From  (241/4  M.)  Wisch  (Gol- 
dene  Glocke),  a  Roman  road  leads  to  the  Donon  (see  below). 
"^.572  M.  Russ-Hersbach, 


Vosges.  ROTHAU.  44.  Route,     301 

27  M.  Schirmeck-Vorbruck  ^1084  ft.;  *H6tel  de  France,  in 
Vorbrnck;  *Croix  d'Or,  in  Schirmeck;  Marehat),  two  busy  little 
places  with  2700  inhab.,  situated  at  tbe  point  where  the  valley  of 
the  Breusch  (with  the  road  to  St.  Di^  is  joined  by  the  valley  of 
Grandfontaine  (through  which  a  road  leads  to  Raon-l'Etape).  The 
two  villages  are  separated  by  the  Breusch.  Vorhruck^  Fr.  Lahroque^ 
with  the  railway-station,  is  on  the  left  bank;  Schirmeck  lies  on 
the  right  bank  and  is  commanded  by  the  Schlossberyj  on  which  are 
a  ruined  castle  of  the  Bishops  of  Strassburg  and  a  modern  statue 
of  the  Virgin  (view).  The  environs  afford  numerous  pleasant  ex- 
cursions, which  may  be  easily  made  with  the  aid  of  Heller's  Map 
(1 :  40,000;  price  1  m.  60  pf.).  Ruins  of  8alm  and  Katzenatein,  see 
below. 

Fbou  Sohibmbck  to  thb  Donon,  In  2V2-3hr8,  —  A  drive  of  2V2  hrs.  on 
the  road  to  Baon-rEtape  through  the  valley  of  Grandfontaine  brings  ns 
to  the  Plate/orme  du  Donon  (Inn  at  the  forester's).  The  top  is  reached  thence 
in  40  minutes.  If  we  take  the  diligence  from  Schirmeck  to  Grandfon- 
taine, we  turn  to  the  left  from  the  Cerf  Blanc,  where  the  vehicle  stops, 
pass  through  Orandfontaine,  and  reach  the  forester's  house  in  about 
Vs  hour.  Pedestrians  should  follow  the  path  which  diverges  to  the  right 
from  the  Grandfontaine  road  where  the  wood  begins,  about  »|4  M.  from 
Schirmeck  (guide-post  marked  *Entre  les  deux  Donons").  This  gradually 
ascends  to  the  top  in  about  2  hra.,  passing  through  fine  woods,  well- 
stocked  with  deer,  and  commanding  picturesque  views.  The  Donon  (3313  ft.}, 
one  of  the  most-frequented  summits  of  the  Central  Vosges,  afTords  an 
extensive  survey  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  of  Alsace  towards  the  W., 
and  of  the  hills  and  plain  of  Lorraine  on  the  E.  In  clear  weather  the 
Bernese  Alps  can  be  distinguished.  On  the  summit  is  the  'Mus^e\  a  small 
sandstone  'temple',  built  in  1869  and  containing  some  antiquities  dis- 
covered in  the  neighbourhood.  There  is  a  refuge-hut  about  30  yds.  below 
the  summit,  amid  the  rocks  on  the  side  next  the  Kleine  Donon.  A  path 
from  the  summit  passes  the  'temple  of  Mercury'  (thence  to  the  left,  by 
the  path  indicated  by  the  guide-post  'Grandfontaine')  and  the  Druiden- 
felten.  and  reaches  the  forester's  house  in  25  minutes. 

29  m.  Kothan  (Deux  Clefs) y  a  pleasant-looking  and  busy  village, 
with  1450  inhabitants.  The  ruined  castle  of  Salm,  4^2  M.  to  the 
W,,  commands  a  view  of  the  Donon  and  the  Mutziger  Thai;  it  was 
the  seat  of  the  Princes  of  Salm,  to  whom  the  whole  district  belonged. 
About  V2  M.  from  the  castle  is  the  hamlet  of  Salm,  The  Katten' 
%Uin,  or  Chatte  Pendue,  2  M.  farther,  affords  a  good  view  of  the 
Hochfeld,  the  valley  of  the  Breusch,  and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine. 
A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  taken  from  Rothau  to  (3  M.)  Natz- 
weiler  and  (^/iM.)  the  ^Cascade  de  la  Serva,  which  lies  in  the  midst 
of  dark  pine-forests  (often  visited  from  Hohwald,  p.  307 ;  5  M.). 

In  the  valley  of  the  Breusch,  2Vs  M.  higher  up,  on  the  road  to  St.  Die, 
lies  Urbaeh,  Fr.  Fouday  (Poste),  belonging,  like  Rothau  and  five  other 
villages,  to  the  ancient  lordship  of  Bteinthal^  Fr.  Ban  de  la  Roche^  which 
has  been  a  desolate  and  sparsely-peopled  district  since  the  time  of  the 
Thirty  Tears'  War.  The  places  named  owe  their  prosperity  and  com- 
parative populousness  to  the  praiseworthv  philanthropic  exertions  of 
Johann  Friedrich  Oberlin  (b.  at  Strassburg  1740 ,  d.  1826) ,  who  is  buried 
in  the  churchyard  of  tJrbach.  —  The  saddle  of  the  Hochfkld,  at  a  point 
near  a  finger-post  showing  the  road  to  Hohwald  (comp.  p.  308),  may  be 
reached  from  Urbach  in  about  3  hrs.,  via  Waldersbaeh,  where  Oberlin 
was  a  Protestant  pastor,  and  Belmont.  —  Fbom  Ubbaou  to  Wkileb  in  the 


302    BouU  44.  NIEDER-HASLAGH.  The  Central 

Weilerthal  (p.  308) ,  via  St.  Blaise,  Ranrupt^  Steiffe,  and  Meisengott^  is  a 
walk  of  about  4  hrs.  —  A  diligence  plies  from  Urbach  Til  St.  Blaite-la- 
Roeht  and  Bourg  Brnche  to  (8  M.)  Sadlet  (Hot.  du  Commerce),  the  last 
German  village,  about  3  min.  from  the  frontier.  Thence  an  omnibus 
plies  to  St.  Did.  

Haslaohthal.  By  proceeding  to  the  N.,  over  the  hill,  from 
Urmatt  (p.  300)  we  soon  reach  (1  M.J  — 

Nieder-Haslacli  ( Krone  i  Linde;  *Apfel),  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
convent.  The  large  Gothic  church  of  St.  Florian  possesses  beautiful 
old  stained-glass  windows,  and  fine  Gothic  sculptures  on  the  W. 
portal.  The  body  of  the  church  and  the  tower  date  from  the  14th 
cent. ;  the  'Choir  was  begun  in  1274,  and  rebuilt  in  1290  after  its 
destruction  by  flre.  A  side-chapel  to  the  left  contains  the  tombstone 
of  a  son  of  Meister  Erwin  ('fllii  Erwini  magistri' ;  d.  1330),  the 
builder  of  the  choir. 

The  road  continues  to  ascend  the  Haslach ,  and  at  the  end  of 
(3/4  M.)  Oberhaslach  (Beer  at  Fuchsloch's)  it  divides.  We  follow 
the  branch  to  the  right,  leading  through  a  beautiful  and  gradually 
contracting  dale  to  the  (2^2  M.)  fifth  saw-mill  from  Oberhaslach. 
A  few  paces  on  this  side  of  it  a  broad  footpath  ascends  to  the  right 
into  the  beautiful  pine-clad  *Valley  of  the  Kid60k»  enclosed  by 
rocks  of  porphyry,  which  vies  with  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Black 
Forest.  At  the  (1  M.)  upper  end  of  the  valley  the  Nideck  forms  a 
waterfall,  80  ft.  in  height.  High  above  it  stands  the  square  tower 
of  the  Castle  of  Nideck^  called  by  an  old  tradition  the  castle  of  the 
giants,  to  which  a  zigzag  path  ascends  to  the  right,  crossing  the 
brook  to  the  left  above  the  waterfall.  The  tower  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  valley.  From  this  point  to  the  forester's  house  of  Nideck 
(♦Inn),  15-20  min.,  see  p.  304. 

From  the  forester's  house  to  the  Schne»berg,  see  p.  304.  To  Wangen- 
burg  (p.  304)  we  first  follow  the  road  to  the  left,  then  (20  min.)  ascend 
to  the  left,  and  reach  (20  min.)  a  cross-road  with  a  guide-post.  We  next 
(5  min.)  turn  to  the  right,  descend  to  the  right  at  (V4  hr.)  the  hamlet  of 
Wol/9thal^  turn  (Va  hr.)  to  the  left,  and  arrive  at  (V4  hr.)  Wangenburg. 

b.   From  Zabem  to  Sehlettstadt  by  Holiheim.     Wangenburg. 
Oirbaden.     Odilienberg.     Hohwald. 

41  Va  M.  Railway  to  Sehlettstadt  in  23/4  hrs. ;  fares  6  m.  30,  3  m.  50, 
2  m.  30  pf.  —  Best  views  to  the  right. 

Zabem,  see  p.  289.  —  2V2  M.  OtUrsweiler, 

5  M.  Hanrimanster,  Fr.  Marmoutier  (Krone;  Zwei  SchliuselJ, 
a  small  village.  The  Church  of  8t,  Maurus,  which  belongs  to  an 
ancient  and  once  powerful  Benedictine  abbey,  now  suppressed, 
possesses  a  handsome  late-Romanesque  facade  and  a  vaulted  vesti- 
bule (a  favourite  style  in  Alsace ;  comp.  the  church  of  St.  Fides 
at  Sehlettstadt,  and  the  church  at  Gebweiler). 

9  M.  RomanstDeiler,  (Route  to  Wangenburg,  see  p.  304.) 
10  M.  PapiermiihU, 


Vo»ge8.  BOSHEIM.  44.  Route.    303 

11  M.  WaiBftlnheim ,  French  Wasaelonne  (*Goldner  Ajpftl),  a 
small  town  prettily  situated  on  the  Moasig^  with  the  ruins  of  an  old 
castle,  and  exte naive  stocking-factories. 

13  M.  Wangen;  133/4  M.  Marlenheim,  the  traditionary  home  of 
the  Nihelungen  hero,  Hagen  von  Troneck ;  14^4  M.  Kirchheim ; 
151/2  M.  Scharrackbergheim  J  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  which  lies  West- 
hofen,  with  a  handsome  Qothic  church  of  the  14th  cent. ;  17  M. 
Sulzhad;  18  M.  AvoUheim,  a  village  with  a  Romanesque  church  of 
the  11th  cent.  ('Dom-Peter'),  the  nave  of  which  has  a  fiat  roof. 

20  M.  MoLsheim^  the  junction  of  the  Strassburg  and  Rothau 
railway  (p.  300).  —  201/2  M.  DorUsheim,  with  a  Romanesque 
church.    In  the  distance,  farther  on,  Girbadeu  (p.  305). 

23V2  M.  KoBheim  (Pflug),  a  small  town  with  3700  inhab., 
once  a  free  city  of  the  empire,  has  several  times  suffered  de- 
struction, but  the  mediaeval  fortifications  are  in  good  preser- 
vation. At  each  end  of  the  town,  and  also  in  the*  middle  of 
the  main  street  running  from  E.  to  W.,  the  ancient  tower-gates 
are  still  standing.  The  Romanesque  *  Church  of  88.  Peter  and  Paul 
was  consecrated  in  1049;  the  present  edifice,  however,  dates  from 
the  12th  cent.,  and  has  been  added  to  in  Gothic  times.  Several 
of  the  old  houses  are  very  picturesque. 

24y4  M.  Bischofaheim,  In  the  distance  the  castles  of  Otrott 
(p.  305),  farther  on  the  Odilienberg  (p.  306)  and  the  Mennelstein 
(p.  307). 

26  M.  Ober-Ehnheim,  French  Ohemai  {Hotel  Wagner,  by  the 
church ;  Vormwald^  at  the  station),  with  4700  inhab.,  and  several 
manufactories,  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  free  imperial  town  by 
Emp.  Frederick  II.  The  Town  Hall  of  1523,  thoroughly  restored  in 
1849,  contains  an  interesting  old  council-chamber;  in  front  of  it 
Is  a  draw-well.  There  are  several  other  picturesque  houses.  — 
From  Ober-Ehnheim  to  the  Odilienberg,  see  p.  305. 

28  M.  Ooxweiler  produces  a  good  variety  of  white  wine  (*Clev- 
ner') ;  the  station  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains,  with  their 
numerous  ruined  castles.  Pleasant  walk  through  the  'Heiligensteiner 
Au*  to  Heiligenstein  (p.  306). 

30  M.  Oertweileri  to  the  right  the  ruin  of  Landsperg  (p.  306), 
opposite  Schloss  Andlau  (p.  307). 

301/2  M.  Barr  (*Bothes  Haus;  *Krone;  Ooldner  Apfel;  Inn  and 
Hydropathic  Establishment  Zum  Biihl ;  *RaU.  Reaiaurant),  a  busy 
little  town  of  6000  inhab.,  with  extensive  tanneries,  is  prettily 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kimeckthal.  The  Tovm  Ball  in  the 
market-place  was  built  in  1640. 

32  M.  Eichhofen,  station  for  Andlau  (2M. ;  p.  307),  and  8totz- 
heim ,  21/2  M.  to  the  W.  Then  (331/2  M.)  Epfig,  with  2600  inhab. ; 
at  the  E.  end  is  the  early-Romanesque  Margarethencapelle.  To  the 
right,  in  the  background,  rises  the  Vngeraberg  (2966  ft.). 

361/2  M.  Dambaohi  (*Krone),  a  small  town  of  3000  inhab.,  with 


304     Route  44,  WANGENBURG.  The  Central 

the  remains  of  old  fortifications  and  several  late-Gothic  houses. 
The  St,  Sebastianscapelle  to  the  "W.,  with  its  Romanesque  tower  and 
Gothic  choir ,  contains  a  richly-carved  wooden  altar.  Passing  the 
chapel  we  reach  in  40  min.  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Bernstein ,  whence  we  may  proceed  (guide-post)  by  the  castle  of 
Ortenburg,  with  its  bold  pentagonal  tower  of  the  13th  cent.,  and 
that  of  Ramstein  (locally  known  as  the  'Scherweiler  Schlosser'),  to 
Kestenholz  (p.  308). 

39  M.  Scherweiler,  where  the  insurgent  peasants  were  defeated 
in  the  Peasants'  War  of  1525.  In  the  background,  to  the  right,  the 
AUenberg  (2877  ft.)  and  the  ruined  Frankenburg  (p.  309).  — 
411/2  M.  Schlettstadt,  see  p.  294. 


From  Romanswbileb  to  Wangbnbubg,  51/2  M.,  diligence  twice 
daily  in  IV2  1^^'  ^^^  '^^^  crosses  the  Afo««i^,  and  then  ascends 
the  wooded  and  confined  valley  watered  by  that  stream.  Pedestrians 
may  save  about  a  mile  by  short-cuts. 

From  Zabern  to  Wangtnburg,  10  M.,  see  pp.  291-293. 

Wangenbnrg  (1476  ft.;  *H6telWeyer,  near  the  new  church,  D. 
2  m.  40  pf.,  *pens.'  4  m.  40  pf.,  omnibus  to  meet  the  trains  at  Ro- 
mansweiler,  p.  302),  a  small ,  scattered  village,  commanded  by  the 
ruins  of  the  castle  of  that  name  (built  in  the  13th  cent.),  is  beauti- 
fully situated  among  meadows  surrounded  by  pine-forest,  and  fre- 
quently visited  in  summer  on  account  of  the  purity  of  its  air. 

The  route  from  Wangenburg  to  the  top  of  the  8clmeeberg(3159  ft.; 
li/2hr.)  descends  to  the  left  near  the  church,  passes  a  well  on  the 
leift,  and  a  solitary  house  and  then  ascends  to  the  left  by  a  footpath 
constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club  (finger-post).  On  quitting  the  wood 
(1  hr.)  the  path  proceeds  to  the  left  in  the  direction  of  the  rocks 
among  which  a  shelter-hut  has  been  built.  The  summit  (1/4  hr.) 
commands  an  extensive  *View  over  Alsace  (to  the  W.),  the  plain 
of  Lorraine  (to  the  E.),  and  the  Vosges.  —  Another  path  (not  to 
be  mistaken)  descends  to  the  S.  in  3/4  hr.  to  the  forester's  house  of 
Nideck  (*Inn).  Thence  to  Nideck  Castle  (see  p.  302),  1/4  hr. :  we 
turn  to  the  right  along  the  carriage  road,  from  which  a  path  div- 
erges to  the  left  In  7  min.,  reaching  the  castle  in  6  min.  more.  To 
Nieder-Haslach,  see  p.  302,  and  Map,  p.  300. 

Good  walkers  will  find  it  pleasant  to  proceed  hence  by  the  Noll  and 
the  Donon  to  (6  hrs.)  Schirmeck  (p.  301). 


The  Ruins  of  Gibbadbn  may  be  visited  from  Gressweiler 
(p.  300),  Heiligenberg  (p.  300),  Rosheim  (p.  803),  or  Urmatt 
(p.  300).  —  The  most  convenient  route  is  that  from  Heiligenberg. 
We  follow  the  line  of  rails  for  some  yards  to  the  S.W.,  then  cross 
them,  and  follow  a  path  (guide-post)  ascending  to  the  right  by 
the  edge  of  the  wood.  This  leads  past  the  forester's  house  of  Gir- 
^aden  to  the  ruins  in  I8/4  hr.  —  Leaving  the  station  at  Rosheim 


Vosgea,  GIRBADEN.  44,  Route.     305 

■we  follow  the  principal  street  intersecting  the  village  to  the  "W.  for 
about  V2  M->  *^d  *^en  ascend  gradually  by  the  high-road.  After 
walking  for  about  3  M.  we  reach  a  flnger-post ,  indicating  the  way 
straight  on  to  (41/2  M.)  Grendelbruch ,  to  the  left  to  (I3/4  M.) 
Klingenthal,'  and  to  the  right  to  Gressweiler.  We  proceed  in  the 
last  direction  to  (Y2  M.)  a  s?cond  finger-post,  which  points  across 
the  bridge,  to  the  left,  to  Lauhenheim  (Inn),  from  which  Girbaden 
may  be  reached  by  a  foot-path  in  about  3/^  hr. 

Schloss  Oirbaden  (1870  ft.),  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  exten- 
sive fortresses  in  Alsace,  is  said  once  to  have  possessed  14  gates  and 
14  court-yards,  and  is  still  an  imposing  ruin.  It  was  probably 
built  in  the  early  part  of  the  13th  century.  In  the  W.  portion  a  hall, 
the  handsome  windows  of  which  are  bordered  with  clustered  pillars, 
is  still  traceable.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Valentine,  which  has  been 
erected  among  the  ruins  beside  the  square  W.  tower,  is  much  fre- 
quented by  pilgrims.  —  On  the  crest  of  the  hill,  lOmin.  to  theE., 
is  the  Oirhadener  Hof  (refreshments). 

Travellers  coining  from  the  N.  {e.g.  from  Wangenburg,  or  the  Schneeberg) 
and  wishing  to  proceed  to  Girbaden,  may  do  so  by  crossing  the  hill  from 
Meder-Haslaeh  (p.  302)  to  (20  min.)  Urmatt  (p.  300)  and  (»/«  hr.)  MUhlbach, 
where  they  turn  to  the  left,  at  the  church,  and  ascend  the  side-valley. 
About  1  M.  farther  on ,  the  road  divides  •,  we  take  the  branch  to  the 
right  to  (2V2  M.)  arendelbruch  (H6tel  ScTialler.,  'pens.*  3V2-4  m.),  a  fagrourite 
summer-resort  of  the  Strassburgerfl.  Fine  view  from  the  FalkensteinftUen, 
IV2  M.  from  the  hotel.  From  Grendelbruch  to  Girbaden  in  1  hr.  5  the  foot- 
path quits  the  road  to  Rosheim,  a  few  hundred  paces  below  the  village, 
and  ascends  the  slope. 

A  considerably  shorter  path  leads  direct  to  the  S.  to  Girbaden,  quit- 
ting the  road  IV*  M.  to  the  E.  of  TJrmatt ,  about  Va  M.  to  the  E.  of  the 
point  where  the  Niederhaslach  road  joins  the  Breuschthal  road:  comp. 
Map,  p.  300. 

At  the  Girbadener  Hof  the  traveller  should  ask  the  way  to  the  small 
village  of  Laubenheim^  mentioned  above,  which  is  reached  after  a  steep 
descent  of  25  min.  (the  footpath  at  first  not  being  well-defined).  Thence  in 
5  min.  to  a  road  (several  guide-posts),  leading  to  (2V2  M.)  Klingenthal  (see 
below  ^  ascent  of  the  Odilienberg  2  hrs.  more). 


Abobnt  op  ths  Odilibnbebo  (comp.  also  Prof.  Euiing's  Map, 
on  a  scale  of  1 :  40,000 ;  numerous  finger-posts).  —  From  Obeb- 
Ehnheim  (carriage  there  and  back  9-12  m.)  the  road  leads  to  the 
W.  by  (21/2  M.)  Nieder-Otrott  (787  ft.;  Bar;  Schwan;  Gruner 
Baum),  at  the  foot  of  the  hiU  (good  red  wine),  and  then  winds 
round  the  eminence  (1643  ft.,  ascended  in  40  min. ;  zigzag  foot- 
path to  the  new  pavilion  on  the  Elzberg  and  to  the  Dreistein, 
p.  307),  which  is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  Liitzelburg  and  Rathsam- 
hauaen.  At  (1 1/4  M.)  Klingenthal  (Lowe  &  Post),  a  road  to  (23/4  M.) 
Laubenheim  (see  above)  diverges  to  the  N.  (right).  The  road  to  the 
(2  hrs.)  Odilienberg  traverses  beautiful  woods. 

Pedestrians  effect  a  considerable  saving  by  following  the  road  from 
Nieder-Otrott  to  Ober-Oiroti  (good  red  wine  at  Wilmann's,  opposite  the 
church),  and  7  min.  beyond  the  latter  (or  about  halfway  to  8t.  Nabor),  tak- 
ing a  forest-path  to  the  right  which  follows  an  ancient  Roman  causeway  and 
leads  to  the  top  in  1 V4  hour.  Another  path,  recently  constructed  by  the  Vosges 

Baedeker's  Ehine.  10th  Bdit.  20 


306    Route  44.  0DILIBNBER6.  The  CefUral 

Club,  Ascends  direct  from  Ober-Oiroit.  A  third  route  le«ds  from  St.  Ifabor 
past  Niedermiin$ier  (with  a  chapel  lately  rebuilt,  and  a  farm-hoase  adja- 
cent), also  founded  by  St.  Odile,  and  afterwards  joins  the  road  from  Barr. 

From  Barr  (p.  303)  to  thb  Odilirnbrro  (2^2  ^to.)  the  route 
is  more  picturesque  than  from  Oher-Ehnheim.  —  The  road  leads 
from  the  station  direct  to  the  N.,  vii  (1  M.)  Heiligenstein  (Stem, 
opposite  the  Rathhaus,  good  'Gleyner'),  V2  ^*  beyond  -which  a 
finger-post  Indicates  the  way  (to  the  left)  to  (8/4  M)  Truttenhausen 
and  (33/4  M.)  St.  Odile.  The  suppressed  Augustine  abbey  of  Trut- 
tenhausen (1230  ft.)  was  founded  in  1181;  it  is  now,  along  -with 
the  ruins  of  the  Gothic  abbey-church ,  dating  from  1490,  private 
property.  —  To  the  W.,  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  BlosSy  of 
which  the  Mennelstein  is  the  highest  point,  we  observe  the  ruins 
of  the  castle  of  Landsperg  (1916  ft.),  erected  in  the  13th  century. 
—  A  few  hundred  paces  beyond  Truttenhausen,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  wood,  is  a  finger-post,  pointing  in  a  straight  direction 
to  St.  Odile,  and  to  the  left  to  Landsperg.  Another  finger-post  is 
reached  about  IV2  M.  farther  on,  in  a  clearing  in  the  wood,  which 
affords  a  view  of  the  monastery  above;  it  indicates  the  way  to 
Niedermiinster  (see  above)  on  the  right,  and  St.  Odile  on  the  left. 
Continuing  the  steep  ascent,  we  reach  the  Odilienbrunnen,  welling 
up  in  a  grotto  close  to  the  new  road ,  the  water  of  which  has  been 
used  by  thousands  of  devotees  as  a  cure  for  diseases  of  the  eye. 
The  convent  is  reached  In  ^4  1^'-  more. 

Another  route  from  Barr  leads  past  the  Protestant  church  to  the  for- 
ester's house  of  Heywang^  and  then  by  a  good  path  to  (1  hr.)  the  ruin  of 
Landsperff  (see  above),  whence  we  may  either  follow  the  path  of  the 
Vosges  Club  to  the  Mennelstein  (see  below),  or  go  direct  to  the  nunnery. 

The  "'Odilienberg  is  a  long  mountain  with  a  rocky  eminence 
(2469  ft.)  in  the  middle,  on  the  E.  side  of  which  stands  a  nunnery 
founded  by  St.  Odile,  the  patron -saint  of  Alsace.  The  abbey- 
church,  which  is  much  frequented  by  pilgrims,  and  has  even  been 
visited  by  emperors  and  popes,  contains  the  tomb  of  the  foundress. 
{*Inn  at  the  nunnery,  R.  1Y2»  D.  2Y2»  'pension'  5  m.).  Tradition 
relates  that  Odile,  the  daughter  of  the  Duke  of  Alsace  (7th  cent.), 
was  born  blind,  but  gained  her  sight  on  being  baptised ,  and  after- 
wards spent  a  long  life  here  in  all  the  odour  of  sanctity.  Superb 
♦View  from  the  convent  garden.  The  Odilienberg,  or  'Hohenburg', 
was  fortified  at  a  remote  period.  Maximian,  the  co-regent  of  Dio- 
cletian, is  said  to  have  erected  a  castle  here  against  the  Aiemanni 
about  the  year  300,  and  it  is  at  all  events  certain  that  a  Roman 
road  led  to  this  spot  (see  above).  Authorities  are  not  quite  agreed 
as  to  the  origin  of  the  Heidenmauer,  a  wall  encircling  the  entire 
hill,  6-10  ft.  in  height,  6^/2  ft.  in  thickness ,  and  still  compara- 
tively well-preserved.  The  fact  that  the  blocks  of  sandstone  are 
hewn,  and  the  way  in  which  they  are  dove-tailed  into  each  other, 
seem,  however,  to  prove  that  it  is  not  a  pre-Roman  monument, 
but  was  more  probably  erected  in  the  4th,  5th,  or  6th  cent.,  as  a 
place  of  refuge  from  the  predatory  attacks  of  the  barbarians. 


Vosges.  HOHWALD.  44.  Route,     307 

The  highest  point  of  the  ridge  is  the  *Hennel8tein  (2673  ft.), 
which  rises  to  the  S.,  and  may  he  ascended  from  the  nunnery  in 
Y2  hour.  In  clear  weather  it  commands  a  view  emhracing  almost  the 
whole  of  Alsace,  the  Breisgau  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest,  the  Vosges 
(to  the  S.  the  Kirneckthal,  the  Andlauer  Schloss,  and  the  Speshnrg), 
the  Rhine,  and,  towards  the  {?.,  the  Alps.  On  the  left  side  of 
the  Mennelstein,  towards  the  plain,  are  extensive  remains  of  the 
Heidenmauer,  and  also  on  the  S.  and  W.  side.  Ahont  Y4  M.  he- 
low  the  S.W.  angle  is  a  point  of  view,  known  as  the  Kiosk.  —  At 
the  N.  extremity  of  the  Odilienherg  lies  the  ruin  of  Waldsherg^  or 
HagelachlosSj  which  may  he  reached  in  3/4  hr.  (the  ruin  itself  is  dif- 
ficult of  access).  More  to  the  W.  is  the  ruin  of  Dreiatein,  huried  in 
wood,  consisting  of  two  castles  (once  three)  of  the  13th  century. 

From  the  Odilienberg  the  traveller  may  proceed  by  a  path  through 
the  woods  (indicated  by  finger-posts),  in  2V2hr8.  to  Hohwald  (see  below). 
We  follow  the  path  indicated  by  finger-posts,  from  the  Kiosk  (see  above), 
and  after  IV4  hr.  tarn  to  the  left  (the  path  to  the  right  leads  in  1  hr.  to 
the  forester's  house  of  Rothlachy  p.  308). 


Fbom  Babb  to  Hohwald.  Post-omnihus  in  summer  twice 
daily ;  carriage  8-10  m. 

The  Cabbiaoe-Road  from  Barr  to  Hohwald,  8^/4  M. ,  leads  by 
Mitielbergheim  to  Andlan  (Krone;  Stadt  StrassburgJ^  a  small  town 
with  1900  inhah.,  prettily  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  Andlau- 
Thal,  with  several  old  timber  houses,  and  a  Romanesque  *  Abbey 
Church  of  the  12th  cent.,  with  Gothic  additions,  altered  in  1701, 
and  judiciously  restored  in  1861.  The  crypt  (11th  cent.)  is  borne 
by  pillars.  The  facade  is  ornamented  with  rude,  fantastic  reliefs, 
and  the  choir-stalls  are  very  handsome.  — The  road  then  ascends  the 
pleasant  valley  of  the  Andlau,  through  beautiful  woods,  passing  the 
ruins  of  Andlau  and  Spesburg  on  the  right  (connected  with  each 
other  by  a  footpath),  and  numerous  saw-mills. 

Pbdestbians  should  walk  through  the  town  of  Barr,  and  from 
the  W.  end  of  it  (2  M.  from  the  station)  ascend  the  road  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Kirneck  as  far  as  the  (2  M.)  ^Hol%platz\  where  there 
are  several  saw-mills  and  extensive  stores  of  wood.  The  carriage- 
road  terminates  here ,  and  a  'Schlittweg',  or  sledge-track  for  the 
descent  of  timber,  begins,  by  which  the  forester's  house  of  Wetsch- 
&rucft (refreshments;  route  to  the  Neuntenstein,  see  below)  is  reach- 
ed in  11/4  hr. ;  a  footpath  thence  leads  to  Hohwald  in  another  Y2  ^^• 

Hohwald.  —  Hotels.  *Kuntz,  D.  incl.  wine  2,  S.  IV4,  R.  from  1, 
^pens."  5  m.,  with  baths;  *Mabbchall,  also  with  baths;  'pens.''  4m. 

Hohwald  (2198  ft.)  is  a  straggling  village  with  700  inhab.,  and  a 
Protestant  and  a  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Its  healthy  and  at  the 
same  time  sheltered  and  picturesque  situation  has  made  it  one  of 
the  most  frequented  summer-resorts  in  the  Vosges. 

The  wooded  ""Envtrons  op  Hohwald  afford  many  pleasant  excursions, 
which  are  greatly  facilitated  by  numerous  way-posts.  To  *Bellevue 
(1  hr.):    we  turn    to  the  right    at    the    first  saw-mill  below  the  hotel, 

20* 


308    Route  44.  WEILER.  The  Central 

crosd  the  bridge,  and  skirt  the  wood  for  about  Vs  ^'i  tintil  we  reach 
the  beginning  (on  the  left)  of  a  narrow,  partly  grass-grown  path,  which 
afterwards  widens  and  winds  gradually  round  the  mountain ,  chiefly 
through  wood,  and  keeping  at  nearly  the  same  elevation.  At  the  exit 
from  the  wood  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Breitenbach, 
and  V4  M.  farther  of  the  Weilerthal.  —  To  the  *Neunten$tein  (there  in 
11/4  hr.,  back  in  V4  ^^•^'>  ft  Ane  point  of  view:  we  turn  to  the  left  at 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  situated  on  an  eminence  near  the  hotel,  and 
ascend  by  a  steep  footpath  (numerous  finger-posts);  another  path  leads 
from  the  forester''s  house  of  Welschbmch  (2  H. ;  see  above).  Inn  at 
the  adjacent  forester's  house  of  Rothlach.  —  At  the  entrance  to  the  wood, 
about  1/4  H.  above  the  hotel,   on   the  right  side  of  the  road,  is  a  guide- 

rost,  indicating  the  way  to  the  Ratfisamkausenstein  (3441  ft. ;  there  in 
>/s  hr. ,  back  1  hr. ;  view  over  the  upper  Breuschthal),  the  Cascade 
du  Hohwald  (Vs  hr.)i  and  the  Champ-du-Feu.  —  The  Pelage  (3110  ft.), 
another  favourite  point,  is  reached  by  the  road  below  the  hotel,  leading 
to  the  W.  across  the  bridge;  it  affords  a  picturesque  view  of  the 
Weilerthal,  which  may  be  descended  from  the  Pelage  vi&  Breitenbach. 

The  Hochfdd,  French  Ghamp-du-Feu  (3090  ft.),  is  ascended  from  Hoh- 
wald in  21/4  hrs.  (guide  unnecessary;  finger-posts,  see  above).  It  commands 
a  limited  view.  The  path  we  follow  in  returning  skirts  the  trench  dug 
across  the  ridge,  and  in  about  26  min.  leads  to  the  dairy-form  of  KM- 
berhUtte  (the  Pelage  is  Vs  '^-  ^o  the  right,  the  new  dairy  lies  on  the  left), 
whence  Hohwald  is  reached  in  2  hrs. 

From  Hohwald  to  Weilek,  2V«  hours.  Follow  the  above-described 
route  to  Bellevue,  then  descend  to  Breitenbach  (Inn  by  the  church)  and 
thence  proceed  by  the  road  to  (4V3  H.)  Weiler. 

Weiler,  French  Villi  CZur  Alien  Poet,  moderate),  with  1150  inhab.,  is 
the  chief  place  in  the  valley  which  diverges  from  the  Leberthal  at  Weiler- 
thal. A  road  leads  from  Weiler  by  (1  M.)  Triembaeh,  (IVs  M.)  St.  Moritg, 
and  (IV4  M.)  Thanioeiler,  with  a  chateau  belonging  to  the  Vicomte  de 
Castex,  built  in  1518-40  and  restored  last  century,  to  (3  M.)  the  railway- 
station  Weilerthal  (see  below);  post-omnibus  several  times  daily  from  Wei- 
ler to  Weilerthal,  fare  60  pf.,  carriage  3  fr. 

II.   Thb  TJppbb,  OB  High  Yosobb  Mts. 

FouB  Days  suffice  for  a  glance  at  the  Upper  Vosges  Uts. :  By  railway 
in  the  afternoon  from  Strassburg  to  Weilerthal  (see  below),  and  thence  in 
the  evening  to  the  summit  of  the  Hohen-KGnigsburg.  2V4  nrs.  —  1st  day. 
To  Rappolieweiler  3  hrs.,  Kayser8berg2'h.T6.,  Orftey  2'/4  hrs.,  in  all  7V4  hrs. 
—  2nd  Day.  Weiste  See  2  hrs.,  Reisberg  *U  hr.,  Daarensee  i  hr.,  ScMucht 
V/i  hr.,  in  all  5-6  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  MUnster  0  hrs.,  explore  environs  (Schloss- 
wald)  2V2  hrs.,  on  foot  or  by  omnibus  to  Metzeral  lV4hr.  —  4th Dav.  Over 
the  Herrenberg  to  Wildenstein  in  4V4  hrs.,  Wesserling  2  hrs.,  in  all  o>/4  hrs. 

a.  From  Schlettstadt  to  Harkirch.  Holien-Konigsbnrg.  Bappolts- 
weiler. 

13  M.  Railway  in  1  hr. ;  fares  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20,  75  pf. 

Schlettstadtj  see  p.  294.  —  The  line  ascends  the  Leberthal ,  a 
picturesque,  industrial  valley  enclosed  by  wooded  hills. 

3  M.  Kestenholz,  French  CMtenois  (^J^tahlissement  Badbronnj 
with  120  rooms ,  very  comfortably  fitted  up,  board  20  m.  per  week, 
R.  &  S.  extra),  a  place  with  3800  inhab.,  situated  at  the  beginning 
of  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley,  was  visited  by  a  destructive  fire 
in  1879.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Hdhneriberg,  on  which  rise  two 
warm  mineral  springs  (61°  Fahr.).  To  the  N.  are  the  Scherweiler 
Schlosser  (p.  304).  —  New  road  to  Hohen-Konigsburg,  see  p.  310. 


Vosges.  MABKIRCH.  44.  Route,    309 

A  road  leads  from  Kestenholz  to  (1  M.)  Kinzheim,  an  ancient  village, 
commanded  by  a  castle  of  the  same  name,  a  ruin  since  the  Thirty  Years 
War.    The  Hohen-Konigsburg  may  be  ascended  hence  in  2  hours. 

33/4  M.  WeiUrthal,  French  Val-de-VUU,  lies  at  the  entrance  of 
the  valley  ascending  to  the  right  to  Weiler  (and  Hohwald,  see 
above).  Above  it  to  the  right,  on  the  hill  where  the  two  valleys 
unite,  rises  the  ruin  oi  Frankenburgj  with  its  massive,  round  tower, 
built  in  the  12th  cent.,  and  burned  down  in  1582.  (From  Weiler- 
thal  to  the  Hohen-Konigsburg,  see  p.  310.) 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  Leberthal. —  51/2  M.  Wanzelly 
whence  there  is  a  footpath  to  the  Hohen-Konigsburg.  88/4  M.  Le- 
berau ,  French  Liepvre  (Grand  Cerf ;  Rest.  La  Fleur),  opposite  the 
entrance  to  the  Rumbachihal ,  a  valley  of  imposing  beauty ,  still 
little  known  to  the  tourist  j  the  principal  place  in  it  is  Deutsch- 
Rumbachj  with  a  French-speaking  population.  11 1/4  M.  ;5^*.  Kreutz, 
French  Ste.  Croix-aux-Mines. 

13  M.  Uarkirch,  French  Ste.  Mant-aux-Mines  (Qrand  H6Ul, 
new,  of  the  first  class;  Hdtel  du  Commerce}  Lauterbachy  near  the 
station;  Brasserie  de  VActiorij  Brass.  Oruber^  with  gardens),  the 
capital  of  the  valley,  with  11,500  inhab.,  has  considerable  wool 
and  cotton-factories.  The  once  productive  silver-mines  have  been 
long  exhausted.  The  boundary  between  the  French  and  German 
languages  formerly  passed  exactly  through  the  middle  of  the  town, 
the  right  bank  of  the  Leber  or  Liepvrette  being  German,  the  left 
French,  but  it  is  now  less  strongly  defined.  The  German-speaking 
portion  embraced  the  Reformation  and  was  subject  to  the  Counts  of 
Rappoltstein,  while  the  French  inhabitants  were  Roman  Catholic 
and  under  the  sway  of  the  Dukes  of  Lorraine. 

A  pleasant  Walk  may  be  taken  by  the  St.  Did  road  (the  bends 
may  be  avoided  by  short-cuts)  to  (3  M.)  the  frontier  (Inn,  with  good  red 
wine),  and  then  to  the  right  along  the  frontier  to  (^U  M.)  a  Pavilion, 
situated  exactly  upon  the  boundary-line,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Meurthe,  and  of  St.  Did  and  its  environs.  —  The  lime- 
stone-quarries of  (IVa  M.)  St.  Philipy  in  the  gneiss  rock ,   are  interesting. 

From  Mabkiboh  to  Bappoi:.tswbii.bb,  111/4  M.,  there  is  a  good  road 
leading  across  the  hill.  The  old  road,  diverging  to  Uie  left  from  the 
new ,  V2  M.  from  Markirch,  effects  a  considerable  saving.  It  first  passes 
some  cherry-trees  and  then  leads  generally  through  a  dale,  rejoining  the 
new  road  in  about  Vs  hour.  Fine  retrospect  of  Markirch.  The  summit  of 
the  hill  (2411  ft.)  is  about  halfway.  The  road  then  descends  into  the  valley 
of  the  Stretiffbach^  and  leads  through  wood  nearly  the  whole  way  to  Eap- 
poltsweiler.  About  V/2  M.  from  the  summit,  and  SVa  M.  from  Rappolts- 
weiler,  a  new  road  begins  to  ascend  to  the  right  (S.),  leading  to  (8  M.) 
Alttoeier.  Fr.  Avbure,  which  is  also  connected  with  Markirch  by  a  direct 
road.  The  tower  of  the  picturesque  ruin  of  Bilstem  (1  hr.  from  Altweier) 
next  comes  in  sight  on  a  hill  to  the  right  ^  while  to  the  left  are  the  three 
castles  of  Rappoltsweiler,  easily  reached  in  «/4-l  hr.  by  the  path  construct- 
ed by  the  Vosges  Club  through  the  Dusenbachthal,  the  entrance  of  which 
is  about  1  M.  on  this  side  of  Rappoltsweiler  (comp.  p.  311). 

Thb  Ascent  of  the  Bbbssoib,  which  may  be  accomplished  from 
Markirch  in  about  3  hrs.,  is  a  very  pleasant  excursion  (guide  advisable). 
We  follow  the  road  ascending  the  Leberthal  to  (V2  hr.)  Eckirch  or 
Etchery  (1407  ft.),  to  the  left  of  which  a  brook,  rising  on  the  Bressoir  and 
flowing  through  the  RauentJial^  joins  the  Leber.    From  this  point  a  path, 


310     Route  44.        HOHEN-KONIGSBURG.  The  Upper 

at  first  Bteep  and  afterwarda  traversing  wood,  ascends  tlie  spur  which 
divides  the  Rauenthal  from  the  Leberthal  to  the  farm-house  of  (IVs  hr.) 
Heycot  (refreshments),  whence  the  summit  is  reached  in  about  '/4  hr.  — 
[We  may  also  make  the  ascent  from  Bckirch,  either  by  ascending  the 
Rauenthal,  or  by  keeping  to  the  carriage-road  up  the  Leberthal  as  far  as 
a  small  inn  ('Les  Bagenettes**)  upon  a  height,  where  we  turn  to  the  E., 
towards  the  farm  of  Heycot]  —  The  *Bre«ioir,  or  BrtischbHekel  (4039  ft.), 
commands  a  most  extensive  view  over  hill  and  plain,  including  the  AIds 
in  clear  weather.  It  may  also  be  ascended  from  Urbach  or  Friland  (p.  3l3), 
or  from  Altweier  (see  p.  SOB)  in  2-2V2  hrs. 


From  Weilerthal  (p.  309)  a  good  road  ascends  in  windings  through 
wood  to  the  (_8  M.)  Hohen-Koniosbubo.  About  1/2  ^r.  below  the 
top,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle,  is  the  new  Hohen- 
Konigsburg  Hotel  (D.  incl.  wine  3  m.),  commanding  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  and  the  slopes  of  the  Vosges.  Farther  up 
is  the  Forsthaus, 

Pbdbstbians  follow  the  road  skirting  the  hill,  to  the  left  of  the  railway 
(passing  the  ruin  of  Frankenburg,  p.  909,  on  the  hill  where  the  Leberthal 
and  Weilerthal  divide),  as  far  as  the  (V4  H.)  third  road  diverging  to  the 
left,  where  a  stone  indicates  the  route  to  the  Hohen-Konigsburg  and  Wick 
(forester's  house).  About  */i  M.  farther  another  stone  indicates  the  way 
to  the  right.  The  road  traverses  fine  woods  at  the  base  of  the  Hohen- 
Kdnigsburg.  After  2  M.  more  a  path  diverges  to  the  left  (finger-post),  which 
ascends  in  1  hr.  (the  last  20  min.  again  on  the  road)  to  the  hotel. 

Other  very  pleasant  routes,  also  partly  indicated  by  direction-posts, 
ascend  from  Leberau  (p.  309)  and  8t.  Pilt  (p.  294;  1V<  hr.).  A  fourth 
path,  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  and  also  provided  with  finger-posts, 
leads  from  Kettenholt  to  the  top  in  iVs  hr. ;  or  via  Kinxheim  in  2  hrs. 

The  path  to  the  right  by  the  huge  S.W.  tower  leads  to  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  of  the  castle. 

The  *Hohen-KoxLig8biirg,  1679  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is,  after 
Girbaden(p.  305),  the  largest  castle  in  Alsace.  Its  huge  walls  of  sand- 
stone, towering  above  the  dark -green  chestnut  wood,  are  strikingly 
picturesque.  The  ruins  are  still  in  tolerable  preservation.  The  W. 
portion  served  for  purposes  of  defence,  while  the  dwelling-rooms 
were  in  the  £.  part.  The  principal  entrance  leads  to  a  Court-yard j 
from  which  we  pass  through  the  Ldwen-Thor  (commemorating  the 
dukes  of  the  house  of  Hohenstaufen,  p.  313)  to  the  Inner  Quad- 
rangle, The  handsome  main  building  here  (15th  cent.)  consists  of 
four  stories,  the  lowest  of  which  was  the  kitchen,  the  others  the 
dweUing-rooms.  The  platform  of  the  E.  tower  commands  a  most 
extensive  *View. 

Nothing  certain  is  known  of  the  origin  of  the  castle,  but  it  has  ob- 
viously been  the  work  of  several  centuries.  As  early  as  1462  the  castle 
was  partly  destroyed  by  the  Bishop  of  Strassburg  and  the  Archduke 
Sigismund  of  Austria  on  account  of  depredations  committed  by  its  pro- 
prietor. It  was  subsequently  restored,  but  was  bombarded  and  burned  by 
the  Swedes  in  1633.  In  1864  it  was  purchased  by  the  town  of  Schlett- 
stadt,  and  steps  have  been  taken  to  prevent  its  farther  dilapidation. 

From  the  Hohen-Konigsburg  a  path  not  easily  mistaken  leads  to 
the  S.W.,  passing  a  forester's  house  (20  min.)  to  the  right,  which 
has  been  already  visible  from  above,  to  (1  hr.)  Thannenkirch  (Hotel 
Tannchel,   well  spoken  of),  a  scattered  village,  lying  at  the  foot  of 


Voages.  RAPPOLTSWEILER.  44.  Route.     311 

the  Tdnnehel  (2975  ft. ;  with  a  'Heidenmauer'  like  that  on  the  Odi- 
lienberg,  and  a  fine  view}.  BappoUsweiler  may  be  reached  hence 
in  1^/4  hr.,  either  by  the  road  descending  the  valley  to  Bergheim, 
or  by  a  footbath  across  the  hill  (at  first  rather  steep),  past  the  three 
castles  of  Bappoltsweiler. 

The  latter  route  ascends  to  the  E.  past  the  church.  From  the  (V4  hr.) 
summit  of  the  hill  a  view  is  obtained  of  Hohen-Rappoltstein.  We  keep 
to  the  main  path,  passing  several  boundary-stones ;  at  stone  No.  29  the 
road  to  the  castles  diverges  to  the  right,  while  that  to  Bappoltsweiler 
turns  to  the  left.  

Sappoltsweiler  (locally  called  Rapperschwier)^  French  Riheau- 
vilU  (*Zum  Lamm,  B.  IV2  ^'  \  ^^^^^  ^«  Nancy),  an  old  cotton- 
manufacturing  town,  with  6100  Inhab.,  3  M.  from  the  station 
(p.  294),  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam- tramway,  lies  at 
the  entrance  of  a  short  but  beautiful  valley,  watered  by  the  Streng- 
bach,  and  bounded  by  productive  vineyards  (p.  294).  On  the  rocks 
above,  to  the  right,  rise  the  *  Three  Castles'  of  the  Counts  of  Bappolt- 
stein,  a  family  often  mentioned  in  the  mediaeval  history  of  Alsace. 

The  Count  of  Rappoltstein  was  the  'king^  of  all  the  musicians  and 
minstrels  of  the  Upper  Rhine,  who  recognised  him  as  the  head  of  their 
brotherhood  and  paid  him  a  yearly  tax,  while  he  in  return  extended  to 
them  the  benefit  of  his  protection.  Every  year  on  8th  Sept.  (which  is 
still  the  date  of  a  local  feast),  these  wanderers  assembled  at  Bappolts- 
weiler (afterwards  at  Bischweiler)  to  celebrate  a  joyous  festival,  called 
the  'Pfeifertag',  and  to  settle  all  their  disputes.  On  the  death  of  the 
last  Count  of  Bappoltstein  in  1673,  this  singular  jurisdiction,  along  with 
the  title  of  'king  of  the  pipers',  was  conferred  on  the  Counts-Palatine  of 
Birkenfeld  (afterwards  Zweibrilcken-Birkenfeld)^  who  were  in  the  service 
of  France,  and  was  retained  by  them  until  they  were  deprived  of  it  by 
the  French  Bevolution.  Uax  Joseph,  Duke  of  Pfalz-Zweibriicken,  a  colo- 
nel in  the  French  service  (1777),  and  afterwards  King  of  Bavaria  (d.  1825), 
resided  in  the  chateau  (now  a  school)  down  to  1783. 

The  ancient  town-walls  of  the  the  14th-16th  cent,  are  still  partly 
extant.  A  long  street,  containing  many  fine  old  houses  of  the  15th 
and  16th  centuries,  intersects  the  town  from  E.  to  W.  The  Metzger- 
thurm,  in  the  market-place,  is  a  remnant  of  the  inner  fortifications, 
which  once  separated  the  four  adjacent  parishes,  now  forming  the 
town  of  Bappoltsweiler.  The  tower  bears  the  coat-of-arms  of  the 
counts.  Near  it  is  a  handsome  fountain,  and  farther  up  a  modern 
one ,  with  a  figure  representing  Alsatia ,  by  Friedrich.  The  Gothic 
Parish  Church  was  completed  in  1473.  Philip  Jacob  Spener,  the 
eminent  theologian  (1635-1705),  was  a  native  of  Bappoltsweiler. 

In  order  to  visit  the  three  castles  we  traverse  the  town  to  the 
upper  gate,  where  the  Markirch  road  (p.  309)  issues,  and  then 
ascend  to  the  right  along  the  town-wall.  In  5  min.,  at  a  point 
where  the  road  begins  to  descend,  we  strike  off  by  a  footpath 
ascending  to  the  left,  and  a  few  paces  farther  on  again  turn  to  the 
left.  In  3/4  hr.  we  reach  the  ""St.  TJlrichs-Burgy  the  most  modern 
of  the  three  castles,  erected  about  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent., 
and  abandoned  since  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  It  is  remarkable  for 
its  artistic  architecture  (Transition  style) ,  best  exhibited  in  the 


312    BouUU.         AMMEKSOHWEIER.  The  Upper 

spacious  'Rittersa&I',  with  its  beautiful  double  windows,  surrounded 
by  niches.  The  castle  commands  a  romantic  view.  The  opposite 
ruin  of  Oirsberg,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  rises  boldly  upon  a 
precipitous  cliff.  A  flnger-post  at  the  entrance  to  the  St.  Ulrichs- 
fiurg  indicates  the  way  to  {}/2  hr.)  Hohen-Bappoltitain ,  with  its 
lofty  tower ,  constructed  in  the  14th  cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
building,  and  affording  a  good  view.  —  From  Hohen-Rappoltstein 
to  Thannenkirch ,  about  1^4  hr.,  see  p.  310.  —  The  best  route 
for  returning  to  Rappoltsweiler  is  through  the  DuaenbachVial 
(flnger-post),  past  the  ruins  of  the  chapel  of  that  name  (end  of  15th 
cent.),  formerly  much  frequented  by  pilgrims,  to  the  (40  min.) 
Markirch  road  (p.  309),  and  by  It  to  (1  M.)  Rappoltsweiler. 

Fbom  Rappoltswbilbb  to  Katsebsbbbo  (6  M.)-  Tbe  road  leads 
through  vlney»rds  on  the  hillside  to  (iVs  H.)  Eunaiceier,  containing  a 
church  of  the  15th  cent.,  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  bastions.  To  the  E. 
we  observe  the  ancient  Zellenbevffy  a  village  and  castle,  also  surrounded 
with  a  wall.    About  IVs  H.  beyond  Uunaweier  we  reach  — 

Keichenweier  {Btem^  good  wine),  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  1700 
inhab.,  containing  several  good  specimens  of  mediseval  architecture,  and 
surrounded  by  vineyards  yielding  excellent  wine.  Its  walls  and  gates  are 
among  the  finest  works  of  the  kind  in  Alsace,  particularly  the  Oberthor, 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  with  its  double  gateway.  Near  the  Oberthor 
is  a  fine  Fountain^  of  the  17th  century.  A  few  ruins  only  now  remain  of 
the  old  Chdteau  of  the  Counts  of  Wiirtemberg-Hompelgart ,  to  whom  the 
town  was  subject.  It  was  built  in  the  16th  and  17th  centuries ,  and  a 
number  of  handsome  private  dwelling-houses,  in  the  Gothic  and  Renais- 
sance  styles,  date  from  the  same  period. 

From  Reichenweier  to  Kaysersberg  (p.  313),  3  M. 

From  Rappoltsweiler  to  Kayteriberg  vid  Bilstein,  see  p.  313. 


b.   The  Weissthal.    The  Weisse  and  Schwarze  See.    Reisberg. 

Steah-tbauwat  from  Colmar  to  Schnierlach  vi&  Kaysersberffy  I21/2M.,  in 
IV2  hrs.  (fares,  1  m.  30,  90  pf.).  Those  who  desire  to  visit  the  lakes  leave 
the  tramway  at  Hachim€tt€  and  walk  to  Urbeis  in  •/«  hr.  From  Urbeis 
footpath  to  the  Weisse  Be*  C2  hrs.),   and  thence  to  the  Sehlucht  (3V«  hrs.). 

The  Vosges  differ  from  most  other  mountainous  regions  in  the  facili- 
ties which  they  afford  for  long  walks  along  the  crest  of  the  hills  without 
fatiguing  descents  into  intervening  valleys.  Such,  for  example,  are  the 
walks  from  the  Weisse  See  to  the  Sehlucht,  from  the  Sehlucht  to  the 
Hoheneeky  and  from  the  Hoheneck  to  the  Kheinkopf  (or  to  the  Kahle  Wasen, 
p.  318)  and  to  the  GebweiUr  Belchen  (p.  321). 

Colmar  J  p.  294.  The  tramway  starts  from  the  principal  railway 
station.  Immediately  after  crossing  the  Fecht  it  reaches  (3  M.) 
Ingersheim. 

5M.  AmmeTBchweier  (ZweiSchlussel)f  an  old  town  with  1766  in- 
hab., and  a  number  of  interesting  buildings,  among  which  may 
be  named  the  late-Gothic  parish -church,  the  Gothic  Kaufhaus 
(1538),  the  Renaissance  Rathhaus  (1652).  and  a  fountain  of  the 
16th  century.  There  are  also  several  handsome  dwelling-houses  of 
similar  dates;  and  the  walls  and  towers,  of  the  16th  cent.,  parti- 
cularly the  Schelmenthurm  of  1535,  merit  attention. 

From  Ammerschweier  to  the  *Drei  Aehren'  (p.  315),  3  hrs. 

The  tramway  next  crosses  the  WeisSj  a  tributary  of  the  Fecht. 
51/2  Sigoisheim.     The  village,  which  lies  V2  ^*  to  the  £.,  possesses 


Vosgea,  EAYSERSBEBG.  44,  Route,     313 

a  fine  late-Romanesque  church,  with  interesting  sculptures  on  the 
portal;  the  tower  over  the  cross  is  late-Gothic.  Near  Sigolsheim  is 
the  so-called  'Red  Field',  where  the  degenerate  sons  of  Louis  the 
Pious  took  their  father  prisoner  in  833,  after  they  had  seduced  his 
army  from  its  allegiance.  In  consequence  of  this  event  the  spot  is 
sometimes  termed  the  'Lugenfeld'  (i.e.  fleld  of  lies). 

6  M.  Kienzkeim  is  one  of  'three  towns  in  one  valley'  (the 
other  two  being  Kaysersberg  and  Ammerschweier),  mentioned  in  a 
verse  quoted  by  Merian  (1663)  as  characteristic  of  Alsace  along  with 
'three  castles  on  one  hill,  and  three  churches  in  one  church-yard'. 

7^2  M.  Kaysersberg  (^KronCy  B.  1-2  m.,  good  wine  and  beer; 
Oibecihre)j  an  old  town  with  2600  inhab.  and  several  cotton- 
factories,  lies  at  the  point  where  the  picturesque  Weissthal  contracts, 
and  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Kaistrhurg,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  imperial  Landvogt  of  Alsace  during  the  13th  and  14th 
centuries,  which  was  destroyed  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War  (view 
from  the  platform).  The  town  was  founded  by  Emp.  Frederick  II. 
of  the  Hohenstaufen  family ,  who  were  Dukes  of  Swabia  and  Al- 
sace and  were  solicitous  for  the  welfare  of  their  land.  The  famous 
preacher  John  Qeiler  (p.  285)  was  brought  up  here.  The  ancient 
walls,  the  numerous  quaint  houses  of  the  15th  and  16th  cen- 
turies ,  and  the  old  fountains  (with  inscriptions)  combine  to  give 
the  town  a  particularly  pleasing  air  of  antiquity.  The  handsome 
Town  Hall,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  dates  from  1604.  The  spacious 
Church,  originally  constructed  in  the  12th  cent. ,  but  subsequently 
altered,  possesses  a  fine  Romanesque  portal,  and  contains  a  Lamen- 
tation for  Christ  in  stone,  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  a  German  *Altar- 
piece  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  The  Sommerhaus 
(}ll  hr.),  on  a  hill  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Weiss,  commands  an 
admirable  view  of  the  plain ;  the  Wctterkreuz,  somewhat  higher  up, 
is  another  good  point  of  view. 

Fbom  Kaysebsbbbg  to  Rappoltsweileb  (10  M.),  a  path  (different  from 
that  described  at  p.  312),  lately  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  diverges 
from  the  path  to  the  castle  a  few  yards  to  the  W.  of  the  Kaiserburg, 
and  ascends  through  vineyards  to  the  right  to  (11/4  hr.)  the  Bohe  8chwerz, 
on  which  is  a  pavilion  commanding  an  extensive  view.  At  first  descend- 
ing from  this  point,  we  afterwards  ascend  through  the  Reichentoeierer 
Wold,  and  then  follow  an  almost  level  path  to  the  Brudersmait,  where  a 
guide-post  indicates  the  route  to  the  (li|4  hr.)  ruined  castle  of  Bihtein 
(comp.  p.  309).  Refreshments  in  the  adjacent  forester's  house  of  Baren- 
hUtte.    Hence  to  Rappoltaweiler,  SVa  M.  (p.  309). 

The  road  crosses  the  Weiss  by  an  ancient  bridge  at  Kaysersberg, 
and  ascends  on  the  right  bank.  8Y2M.  Alapach,  formerly  a  Clarissine 
Nunnery,  now  a  factory.  About  3  M.  from  Kaysersberg  (tramway- 
station)  the  road  to  Drbach  or  Friland  (*Inn),  which  is  visible  above 
us,  turns  to  the  right  across  the  Weiss  (ascent  of  the  Bressoir ,  see 
p.  309 ;  from  Urbach  a  new  path  made  by  the  Vosges  Club). 

91/2  M.  Hachimette,  just  within  the  bounds  of  the  French-speak- 
ing district,  which  embraces  the   country  on  the  E.  slope  of  the 


314     Route  44,  ORBEY.  The  Upper 

mountains,  watered  by  the  Weiss  and  its  tributary  streams.  Cross- 
ing the  stream,  -we  pass,  Y4  M.  farther  on,  on  the  left,  the  road  (In- 
dicated by  a  flnger-post)  leading  to  Orbey  or  Urbeis  (see  below), 
and  next  reach  (1/4  M.)  — 

10  M.  Sehnierlach,  French  La  Poutroye  (ZurPost),  the  tram- 
way-terminus and  the  capital  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Weissthal^ 
which  is  also  called  the  Schnierlachthal,  situated  on  the  BSehine,  a 
tributary  of  the  Weiss,  and  possessing  considerable  cotton-factories. 
The  road  proceeds  to  (I272  M.  from  Bennweier)  Colmar-Le  Bon- 
hommey  Oer.  Diedolahciu$en  (H6tel  des  Lacs,  new ;  Gheval  Blanc) 
whence  an  easy  route  leads  to  the  Welsse  See  (see  below).  It  then 
ascends  circuitously  to  the  Col  du  Bonkomme  (3084  ft.),  its  highest 
point,  and  the  boundary  of  Alsace.    Thence  to  St.  DUj  16  M. 

From  Haohimbttb  (see  p.  313)  we  proceed  towards  the  S.W., 
up  the  left  bank  of  the  Weiss  for  2^/4  M.,  to  Orbey  or  Urbeis  (♦Oroia: 
(VOry  aboYe  the  church),  a  scattered  mountain-Tillage,  with  yarious 
Industries,  and  a  new  church  conspicuous  far  and  wide. 

From  Orbey  to  the  Drbi  Abbbbh  (p.  316)  in  2Vr3  hrs. ;  foot-path  to 
(4>/4  M.)  La  ChapelU,  and  thence  either  by  footrpath  or  by  the  carriage- 
road  vii  (4  M.)  La  BarochCy  Ger.  Zell  (Krenz,  by  the  church). 

Most  travellers  pay  a  visit  from  Orbey  to  the  two  mountain-lakes, 
the  Weisse  See  and  the  Schwarze  See,  which  lie  two  hours'  walk  to 
the  W.  of  it ,  and  nearly  on  the  summit  of  the  granite  ridge  which 
separates  Alsace  from  Lorraine.  The  road  to  the  Schwarze  See 
(1 1/2  ^r- ;  a*  first  suitable  for  carriages)  passes  the  old  Cistercian 
abbey  of  Paris ,  the  extant  portions  of  which  have  been  converted 
into  an  hospital.  From  this  point  to  the  Schwarze  See  a  new  path 
has  been  laid  out  by  the  Vosges  Club.  Thence  to  the  Weisse  See, 
by  a  good  footpath  in  1  hr.  —  The  road  from  Orbey  to  the  Weisse 
See  is  preferable  (guide  to  the  Schlucht  4  m. ;  unnecessary  in  clear 
weather).  It  turns  to  the  right  in  the  village;  at  a  point  about 
1/4  M.  beyond  the  *Neue  Hammerschmiede'  or  *Nouveau  Martinet^ 
where  the  path  divides,  we  ascend  to  the  left,  passing  several  farm- 
houses. We  may  cut  off  the  last  wide  bend  of  the  road  by  ascending 
direct  to  the  left  about  1^2  hr.  after  leaving  Orbey. 

The  Weisse  See,  or  Lac  Blane  (3450  ft.;  *H6tel  des  Lacs, 
moderate),  which  derives  its  name  from  the  quartz  at  the  bottom, 
Is  about  3  M.  in  circumference;  it  is  bounded  on  two  sides  by 
lofty  precipices ,  and  on  a  third  by  huge  masses  of  granite  piled 
together.  The  Schwarze  See,  or  Lac  Koir  (3140  ft.),  about  half  the 
size  of  the  other,  lies  only  8/4  M.  to  the  S.,  but  the  two  lakes  are 
separated  by  a  huge  wall  of  granite,  which  it  takes  a  full  hour  to 
cross.    The  discharge  of  the  two  lakes  forms  the  Weiss. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  lakes  rises  the  Beisberg  (3310  ft.),  the 
northernmost  and  highest  eminence  of  the  range  called  Le»  Hautes 
Chaumes  (German,  rarely  used,  Uf  Hochfelden),  which  extends  to 
the  Schlucht  (about  6  M. ;  p.  317).  The  summit,  along  which  runs 
the  boundary  of  Alsace,  may  be  attained  from  the  H6tel  des  Lacs 


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Vosges,  MUNSTERTHAL.  44,  Itoute,     315 

in  3/4  hr.  by  a  new  footpath.  The  view  extends  over  the  Vosges, 
a  great  part  of  Lorraine ,  the  Black  Forest ,  and  the  entire  plain 
of  the  Rhine.  The  path  follows  the  crest  of  the  hill,  and  keeps  on 
the  German  side  of  the  boundary  (numerous  guide-posts).  About 
1  hr.  after  leaving  the  hotel  we  get  a  view  of  the  Schwarze  See 
lying  below  us,  and  about  1/4  M.  farther  a  survey  is  obtained 
to  the  S.  of  the  Munsterthal,  with  the  Swiss  Alps  in  the  distance. 
Those  who  wish  to  proceed  direct  to  the  Miinsterthal  descend 
here  ,  turning  slightly  to  the  left  (via  Les  Hautes  Huttes ;  to  Sul- 
zern  2  hrs.). 

After  3/4  hr.  we  reach  a  low  wood  of  beech  and  pine ,  and 
about  50  paces  to  the  left,  obtain  a  view  of  the  Daaren  -  See,  or 
Lac  Vert  (200  ft.  deep  at  one  place),  a  small  mountain-lake  like  those 
mentioned  above,  but  more  picturesque,  being  enclosed  by  pines,  and 
bounded  on  three  sides  by  precipitous  rocky  banks.  We  follow 
the  crest  of  the  hill  for  IY2  ^^^  niore  to  the  Schluchti  see  p.  317. 

c.    From  Golmar  to  Unnster.    The  Sehlucht.    Hetzeral. 

12  M.  Railway  to  Miinster  in  1  hr. ;  fares  1  m.  60,  1  m.  10,  65  pf. 

To  the  W.  of  Golmar  (p.  294)  opens  the  fertile  ""Uunsterthal, 
formerly  called  the  St.  Gregorienthal ,  watered  by  the  Fechtj  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  frequented  valleys  of  the  Vosges.  Its  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  Protestants,  are  very  industrious, 
carrying  on  manufactures  of  various  kinds  in  the  valley  itself ,  and 
cattle-farming  on  the  neighbouring  hills.  The  'Miinster  cheese' 
resembles  the  highly-esteemed  Camembert. 

The  line  skirts  the  Logelbach,  an  old  canal,  conducted  from  the 
Fecht  at  Tiirkheim,  on  which  numerous  cotton  -  manufactories 
are  situated.  2  M.  Logelbachj  with  a  small  modern-Gothic  church. 
In  the  plain  between  Golmar  and  Tiirkheim ,  on  5th  Jan.,  1675, 
Turenne  surprised  and  signally  defeated  the  German  imperial 
army,  which  had  gone  into  winter-quarters  here.  This  decisive 
engagement  drove  the  Germans  across  the  Rhine  and  effectually 
expelled  them  from  Alsace. 

33/4  M.  Tarkheim  (Bdtel  Petitdemangey  indifferent;  Restaurant 
au  Petit  Turenne^  with  beds,  well  spoken  of),  an  old  town  still  al- 
most entirely  surrounded  by  walls  and  towers.  One  of  the  best 
wines  of  Alsace  is  yielded  by  the  neighbouring  vineyards. 

Fkom  TfiKKHEiM  TO  THE  Dbei  Abhken.  We  may  either  follow  the  road 
to  the  W.  (6»^  M. ;  8hort-cuts  for  walkers),  which  leads  in  long  windings 
through  beautiful  pine-wood,  or  that  to  the  N.,  via  Meder-Morschweier, 
Drei  Aehren,  French  Ifotre  Dame  des  Trots  EpiSy  German  Unsere  Lithe  Frau 
tu  den  drei  Aehren  (1910  ft.  above  sea-level  \  HStel  des  Trots  Rois,  D.  2>/2  m-j 
Hdtel  des  Trots  ^pis,  both  good^  Notre  Dame^  unpretending)  is  a  village 
and  resort  of  pilgrims,  on  the  hill  to  the  W.  of  Tiirkheim.  [The  ped- 
estrian may  avoid  the  windings  of  the  road  by  attending  to  the  following 
directions :  at  the  3rd  path,  IV4  M.  from  Tiirkheim,  ascend  to  the  right;  after 
regaining  the  road,  follow  it  for  V4  M.,  then  take  a  footpath  to  the  left, 
joining  the  road  once  more;  follow  it  for  another  V4  M..  then  again  di- 
verge to  the  right;  by  this  route  the  village  is  reached  in  1  hr.  from  Turk- 


316    Boui€44,  MONSTER.  The  Upper 

helm.]  Ita  picturesque  situation  and  salubrious  air  have  rendered  this  spot 
a  favourite  summer-resort.  The  village  consists  of  an  unpretending  Gothic 
church ,  containing  a  number  of  votive  tablets,  with  a  few  houses  adja- 
cent The  *View  embraces  the  lower  Ifiinsterthal  towards  the  S.,  the  £. 
slopes  of  the  Vosges,  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest, 
and  the  distant  Alps  to  the  8.  If  the  last  are  very  distinct,  rain  may 
generally  be  expected.  —  A  more  extensive  view,  especially  towards  the 
N.,  is  gained  from  the  *Oals  (2401  ft.)f  a  rocky  height  to  the  N.E.,  which 
may  be  ascended  in  Va  br.  —  The  Grosse  Hohnack  (3215  ft.),  1  hr.  to  the 
8.W.  of  Drei  Aehren,  also  commands  a  pleasing  view,  with  the  Miinster- 
thal  in  the  foreground,  and  opposite,  on  the  N.,  the  KUine  Hohnack  (3071  ft.), 
crowned  with  the  ruins  uf  a  castle  restored  in  the  13th  cent,  and  de- 
stroyed in  1655.  To  the  lakes  (p.  314),  passing  between  the  two  Hohn- 
acks,  4-41/3  hours.  From  Drei  Aehren  to  Ammersehweier  i^/t  hr.,  to 
Orbey  2«/«  hrs. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  stat.  Turkheim 
and  3  M.  from  Colmar  (steam- tramway  in  ^j^lir.  ^  40,  20pf.),  lies  the 
village  of  Wintenheim  (Storch^  Meyer,  well  spoken  of),  from  which 
a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  ruins  of  Hohenlandsberg  and  Plixburg.  A  new 
footpath,  not  to  be  mistaken  (guide-posts),  issuing  from  the  W.  end  of  the 
village,  leads  to  the  top  in  1  hour.  The  ruin  of  Hohenlandaberg  (2073  ft.) 
consists  of  little  more  than  the  outer  walls  of  an  extensive  castle,  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1635.  The  summit  of  the  walls  commands  an 
extensive  view.  In  returning  we  may  either  proceed  by  Plixburg  (also  call- 
ed /fixbw'ff  by  the  natives),  or  by  the  direct  and  easy  path  of  the  Vosges 
Club  to  stat.  Walbaeh  (see  below),  or,  taking  the  direction  indicated  by 
the  finger-post  on  the  S.  slope  of  tne  Hohenlandsberg,  pass  almost  entirely 
through  wood  to  (3  M.)  the  ruin  of  Drei-Exen,  and  thence  by  the  (IVs  H.) 
ruins  of  the  Convent  of  Marbach  to  (2Vs  H.)  the  station  of  fferlitheim 
(p.  296).    In  clear  weather  the  Swiss  Alps  are  visible  from  Drei-Exen. 

6V4  M.  Walbaeh.  —  8  M.  Weier  im  Thai  (♦Nouvelle  Auberge, 
at  tbe  station),  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  is  a  small  bath- 
establishment  near  the  ancient  town  of  Sulzbach.  (From  Snlzbach 
a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  over  the  mountains  to  Sulzmatt, 
3  hrs. ,  see  p.  297;  another  by  Wasserburg  to  the  Kahle  Wasen, 
p.  318,  also  3  hrs.)  The  village  of  Weier  im  Thai,  with  a  con- 
spicuous new  church,  lies  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  and  is  com- 
manded by  the  pilgrimage-chapel  of  Heiligkreuz.  —  10  M.  Oiins- 
bach^  with  a  large  cotton-factory,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schlosswald 
(see  below).    The  train  then  crosses  the  Fecht  to  — 

12  M.  Munster  (*AfunatcrHo(ci,  at  the  station,  R.  from  172^1., 
D.  3  m.;  Storch),  a  manufacturing  town  with  5200  inhab.,  sit- 
uated at  the  base  of  the  Monchsberg^  at  the  union  of  the  Kleinthal 
with  the  Orossthalf  the  latter  of  which  is  watered  by  the  Fecht.  The 
place  owes  its  origin  to  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  here  by  King 
Childeric  about  660,  the  buildings  of  which,  however,  have  en- 
tirely disappeared  with  the  exception  of  a  single  tower.  In  the 
middle  ages  Miinster  was  a  free  town  of  the  German  Empire.  Nu- 
merous modern  buildings,  among  which  the  handsome  new  Roman- 
esque church  Is  conspicuous,  testify  to  the  prosperity  of  the  town. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  Miinster  to  the  "*  Schloss- 
wald, IV4  M.  to  the  E.,  an  eminence  laid  out  in  pleasure-grounds,  and 
crowned  by  the  ruin  of  Schtoarzenburg.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Hart- 
mann  family,  and  generally  open  to  the  public.    *View. 

From  Miinster  to  the  top  of  the  Kahle   Wasen,  see  p.  318. 


Vo$ge8.  SCHLUCHT.  dd.  Route.     317 

The  excellent  *Road  fhom  MDnsteb  through  thb  Sohlitcht 
TO  G:6babdmbb  (111/2  M.  ;  omnibus  2  m.  80  pf. ;  one-horse  carr., 
there  and  back,  12  m.),  finished  in  1860,  ascends  the  Kleinthal 
towards  the  W.  At  (2  M.)  Stossweier  it  turns  towards  the  N.  to 
(IV4M.)  Sulzem,  and  ascends  the  hill  in  a  long  curve.  At  the  N. 
angle  of  this  bend  is  a  group  of  houses  belonging  to  the  parish  of 
Sulzern,  and  named  Insel.  (Thence  to  Orbey,  9  M.,  p.  314;  to  the 
Daaren-See,  6  M.,  p.  315;  comp.  Map.)  The  road  continues  to  as- 
cend through  pleasant  wood.  As  we  approach  the  head  of  the  pass 
the  scenery  becomes  grander.  The  whole  of  the  upper  part  of  the 
road  is  cut  through  the  granite  rocks ,  and  a  few  hundred  paces 
below  the  summit  it  passes  through  a  tunnel.  The  ascent  from 
Munster  occupies  3-31/2  hrs.,  the  descent  21/2-3  hrs. 

Pbdbsteians  turn  to  the  left  at  Stossweier  (see  above) ,  follow 
the  right  bank  of  the  stream  to  Schmelzwasen  (opposite  which,  on 
the  left  bank,  lies  AmpfershacK),  and  then  ascend  by  the  new  path 
of  the  Vosges  Club ,  which  regains  the  road  about  1  M.  below  the 
Schlucht.  —  (The  Schlucht  may  also  be  reached  via  the  Hoheneck ; 
comp.  the  Map.) 

The  ♦Schlucht,  French  Col  de  la  Schlucht  (4100  ft.) ,  a  pictur- 
esque mountain-pass,  surrounded  by  precipitous  rocks  and  beau- 
tiful pine-forest,  lies  between  the  Montahec  (4117  ft.)  on  the 
N.  and  the  Altenherg  (4124  ft.)  on  the  S.,  two  heights  of  the 
Central  Vosges  Mts.,  which,  before  the  construction  of  the  road, 
were  crossed  by  a  footpath  only.  On  the  summit  of  the  pass,  which 
forms  the  boundary  between  Germany  and  France ,  is  the  Hdtel 
du  Col  de  la  Schlucht  (good  and  moderate). 

The  *  Hoheneck  (4480  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Vosges  Mts.  after  the 
Gebweiler  Belchen  (p.  321),  and  more  centrally  situated,  affords  a  beauti- 
ful and  extensive  view.  The  route  from  the  Schlucht  to  the  (1  hr.)  sum- 
mit cannot  be  mistaken  in  clear  weather,  if  we  follow  the  finger-posts 
and  boundary-stones.  We  turn  to  the  left  and  begin  the  ascent  at  the 
back  of  the  stable  of  the  inn.  The  view  extends  far  beyond  the  Vosges 
Hts.,  embracing  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest,  the 
Jura  and  the  Alps  towards  the  S. ,  and  the  French  Department  of  the 
Vosges  towards  the  W.  In  the  foreground  towards  the  E.  is  the  beauti- 
ful Hiinsterthal ,  towards  the  W.  the  valley  of  G^rardmer  with  the  Re- 
tournemer  and  Longemer  lakes.  The  Hoheneck  is  also  of  great  interest 
to  the  botanist.  On  the  summit  stand  the  boundary-stone  "So.  2858,  and  a 
finger-post  pointing  to  the  Schlucht  on  the  N.W.  and  the  Fischbodle  on 
the  E.  Proceeding  in  the  latter  direction  we  reach  by  a  stony  path  (U/zM.) 
a  finger-post  indicating  the  way  (left)  to  Munster,  and  1/2  M.  farther  on 
another  pointing  towards  the  left  to  Miihlbach  (and  Metzeral,  see  p.  318), 
and  towards  the  right  to  (3  M.)  the  Fischbodle.  The  Fischbddle  is  a 
small  lake,  well  stocked  with  trout,  surrounded  by  wild  rocks,  probably 
the  moraine  of  an  ancient  glacier  once  occupying  the  Wolmsafhal.  From 
the  Fischbodle  to  Metzeral  iV2  hour. 

Those  who  can  spare  the  time  should  not  fail  to  extend  their  excur- 
sion westwards  of  the  Schlucht,  through  the  finest  part  of  the  French 
Vosges,  to  OfiRABDMBR  (from  the  Schlucht  and  back,  1  day).  The  road  is 
followed  to  (IV4  M.)  the  Collet^  where  the  forest-path  to  the  left  is  taken. 
A  few  hundred  paces  farther,  by  the  finger-post  ('Chemin  des  Dames'),  we 
turn  to  the  right,  and  proceed  by  a  good  pathway  through  the  wood, 
where  we  hear  the  roaring  of  the  Vologne ,  a  torrent  which  rises  on  the 


318    Route  44,  MBTZERAL.  The  Upper 

Hobeneck.  In  45  min.  we  reach  the  Jietoumemer ,  ft  small  lake ,  with  a 
fore«ter*8  house  on  its  bank  (Inn).  The  route  next  follows  the  Vologne, 
and  then  skirts  the  Longemer  lake.  IVi  hr.  Bridge  over  the  Vologne, 
which  here  forms  the  far-reaounding  fall  of  Saut  dti  Cuvet.  40  min.  G4* 
rardmer  (2130  ft.  \  *HdUl  de  la  Potte ;  *H6itl  des  Vosffet) ,  charmingly 
situated  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  and  much  frequented  by  French 
visitors.  —  In  returning,  the  road  which  leads  high  above  the  lake  of  Lon- 
gemer should  be  chosen.  The  Roche  du  Diable ,  to  the  right ,  near  the 
tunnel,  commands  a  delightful  view  of  the  two  upper  lakes.  To  the 
Schlucht,  12  H. 

Those  who  pass  the  night  at  Gdrardmer  should  visit  the  wild  ValUt 
de  Oranffe$ ,  the  way  to  which  is  indicated  by  a  flnger-post  passed  in  the 
woods  near  Odrardmer  in  coming  from  the  Schlucht.  About  IV2M.  above 
the  mouth  of  the  valley  is  the  glacifere,  or  ice-cavern,  of  Kertoff.  —  A  fine 
evening  may  be  agreeably  spent  in  rowing  on  the  lake.  —  An  imposing 
excursion  may  be  taken  from  Q^rardmer  to  the  Wildenstein  (5hr0. ;  p.  321) 
via  La  BresM  (Soleil)  and  the  Col  de  Bramonty  or  to  Oderen  over  the 
Col  du   Ventron  (7  hrs.  5  p.  321). 

The  road  from  Munster  into  the  Gbossthal  (to  Metzeral, 
33/4  M.,  omnibus  twice  daily)  ascends  towards  the  S.W.  and  passes 
Luttenbach  (ascent  of  the  Kahle  Wasen ,  see  below) ,  Breitenbach, 
and  Miihlbach ,  three  pretty  and  pleasantly-sitaated  villages ,  with 
cotton-factories.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Grossthal,  most  of  whom  are 
Protestants,  retain  several  old  peculiarities  of  manner  and  costume. 

From  LUTTSNBACH  a  carriage- road,  the  windings  of  which  may  be 
avoided  by  the  pedestrian,  leads  through  wood  to  the  (6  M.)  Melkerh^tU 
(refreshments).  A  new  footpath,  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  ascends 
in  40  min.  from  the  hut  to  the  top  of  the  Kahle  Wa»en,  or  Kleine  Belchen 
(4180  ft.),  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Miinsterthal  and  the  Lanchthal. 
In  June  the  mountain  is  covered  with  a  carpet  of  Vosges  violets  (Viola 
elegans).  The  descent  is  made  to  Lamtehbaeh  (p.  320),  by  a  good  path 
constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  and  indicated  by  red  marks  on  the  trees. 

The  Kahle  Wasen  may  also  be  ascended  from  MUnster  (p.  316).  We 
pass  below  the  railway-viaduct  and  follow  the  road  from  0/2  M.)  E»eh- 
bach  to  (41/2  M.)  ErschUUy  a  village  occupied  by  French-speaking  wood- 
men. In  the  middle  of  the  village  a  steep  path  ascends  to  the  right  (finger- 
posts) and  in  10  min.  reaches  the  road  from  Luttenbach  (see  above),  at  a 
point  about  Va  ^t^'  below  the  Melkerhiitte.  Fine  view  of  the  Miinsterthal 
before  the  beginning  of  the  wood. 

Ketseral  (^Ooldene  Sonne^  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Fecht, 
unpretending),  another  small  village  with  several  cotton-factories, 
lies  at  the  union  of  the  valleys  of  the  two  streams  which  combine 
to  form  the  Fecht. 

Beautiful  walk  from  Metzeral  to  8ond«maeh,  and  then  through  fine 
woods,  past  the  forester^s  house  of  Querben^  to  the  crest  of  the  mountains 
{Lauchenkopf  or  WUtort ,  4520  ft. ;  the  walk  may  be  continued  along  the 
ridge  to  the  Gebweiler  Belchen ,  p.  321).  Near  the  chalet  of  Oherlauchen 
(refreshments)  are  the  cascades  of  the  Lauch.  the  finest  in  the  German 
Vosges,  recently  made  accessible.  —  From  Oberlauchen  to  the  forester's 
house  of  Niederlauchenhof  (•Inn),  »/4  hr.  \  thence  to  Gebweiler,  3  hours. 

Fbom  Mktzkbal  to  Wildenstein  (p.  321),  in  4  hrs.,  a  very  interesting 
route.  The  road  turns  to  the  right  opposite  the  inn,  and  continues  to 
follow  the  valley  of  the  Fecht.  After  1  M.  the  road  to  the  above-men- 
tioned Fischbodle  diverges  to  the  right  across  a  bridge.  At  (2  M.)  Mitilach 
the  road  divides  (guide  beyond  this  desirable,  2-2V2m.  ^  the  whole  route, 
however,  is  provided  with  finger-posts);  we  turn  to  the  left  before  the 
bridge,  and  a  little  farther  on  cross  a  bridge  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Fecht, 
and  proceed  to  (*/4  M.)  the  forester's  house  of  fferi'enberff  (refreshments). 
Immediately  beyond  this  the  road  is  quitted  by  a  wooden  pathway,  used 


Vo$g€8.  GEBWEILER.  44,  Route,     319 

for  the  timber-traffic  (see  p.  SOT),  which  aaeends  in  numerous  windings 
through  the  wood  for  nearly  2  hours.  On  the  Herreaherger  Wasen  at  the 
top  is  a  large  chalet.  From  here  to  Wildenstein  (guide-post)  1  hr.  \  path 
rugged  and  often  steep. 

The  AsGBNT  OF  THE  RoTHENBAGHKOFF  may  be  agreeably  combined  with 
the  above  excursion  by  making  a  digression  of  l-iVa  hour.  From  the  chalet 
on  the  Herrenberger  Wasen  we  follow  the  road  to  Wildenstein  for  »/«  M., 
and  then  ascend  to  the  right,  keeping  close  to  the  ditch.  After  a  gentle 
ascent  of  about  Vs  ^^-  ^^  attain  the  summit  of  a  rounded  eminence, 
commanding  a  view  over  the  St.  Amarinthal.  From  this  point  we  reach 
the  small  peak  of  theBoth«nbaohkopf(4327ft.),  to  theK.,  in  another  V4hour. 
Extensive  *View,  particularly  of  the  Miinsterthal.  We  may  descend  to 
the  dairy  of  Rothenhadiho/^  whence  the  Vosges  Club  has  constructed  a 
path  to  Wildenstein  (eomp.  p.  S21). 

d.  From  Bollweiler  to  Lautenbach. 

8  M.  Railway  in  V4  hr. 

Bollweiler,  see  p.  297.  The  line  traverses  a  fertile  district.  —  3  M. 
Obersuhf  a  town  of  4600  inhab.,  with  silk-factories.  It  contains 
an  unpretending  but  elegant  parish-church ,  chiefly  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  a  lofty  tower  above  the  cross,  begun  in  1278,  and  al- 
tered in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries.  To  the  left  near  Gebweiler 
are  several  modem  houses  in  the  Gothic  style. 

41/2  M.  Gebweiler  (*Zum  Engel ,  at  the  station ;  Ooldene  Ka- 
none;  Luxhof) ,  the  capital  of  a  district,  with  12,500  inhab., 
situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  Lauchthal,  Is  an  Important  manu- 
facturing place ,  the  products  of  which  are  cotton  goods ,  cloth, 
sugar,  and  machinery.  The  road  from  the  station  leads  straight  to 
the  Neue  Kirche ,  a  handsome  building  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
the  18th  cent. ,  erected  in  1759  by  the  Prince-Abbots  of  Murbach, 
when  they  transferred  their  residence  to  Gebweiler.  The  main 
street  leads  to  the  right  past  the  late -Gothic  Rathkaus  to  the 
*Pari8h  Church  (8U  Legeriua),  a  fine  example  of  the  Transition  style, 
begun  in  1182,  and  lately  restored.  It  possesses  double  aisles,  a 
transept ,  three  towers  of  unequal  height ,  and  a  fine  Romanesque 
porch  occupying  the  whole  breadth  of  the  W.  front.  The  choir  is 
Gothic.  The  sculptures  on  the  W.  central  portal  merit  inspection. 
One  of  the  best  wines  of  Alsace  is  produced  near  Gebweiler. 

The  Vosges  Club  has  constructed  a  path,  indicated  by  red  marks  on 
the  trees,  from  Gebweiler  to  (3V2  hrs.)  the  Belehen  (p.  321). 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Gebweiler  lie  the  scanty  remains  of  the 
old  Antonite  monastery  of  Jsenheim^  the  source  of  a  number  of  the  most  im- 
portant works  of  art  in  the  Museum  of  Golmar  (see  p.  296). 

The  railway  ascends  the  pretty  Lauchthal,  passing  the  ruin  of 
HugsUin,    51/2  M.  Heissenstein ;  71/2  M,  Buhl. 

About  11/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Biihl ,  in  a  side-valley  watered  by  the 
Bothbaeh,  is  the  picturesquely  -  situated  Romanesque  *Abbey  Church  of 
Murbach,  surrounded  by  a  few  houses.  This  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded 
by  Duke  Eberhard  of  Swabia  in  727,  became  one  of  the  most  powerful  on 
tile  Upper  Rhine,  and  possessed  extensive  domains,  in  which  three  towns 
(including  Gebweiler)  and  thirty  villages  were  situated.  It  was  presided 
over  by  an  abbot  of  princely  rank,  who  bore  as  his  device  a  black  grey- 
hound (^haughty  as  the  Murbach  hound'  was  a  mediaeval  saying).  The 
church,  of  which  the  nave  has  disappeared,  was  consecrated  in  ii39,  and 


320    Route  44.  THANN.  The  Upper 

rankii,  like  that  of  Haurdmiinster  (p.  302),  as  one  of  tbe  oldest  and  fineit 
Romanesque  baildings  in  Alsace.  The  S.  transept  contains  a  handsome 
Gothic  tombstone  of  the  13th  century.  The  house  to  the  left,  about 
60  paces  beyond  the  archway  across  the  road,  with  its  ground-floor  borne 
by  Romanesque  columns,  is  an  inn,  a  boy  from  which  may  be  engaged  as 
a  guide  to  the  summit  of  the  Gebweiler  Belchen  ClV«-2m.).  Comp.  p.  321. 
The  terminus  of  the  railway  is  (8  M.}  Lauteribach,  a  large  in- 
dustrial village,  with  cotton  and  thread  factories.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood, 8t.  Oangolfs  Kapelle,  Opposite,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Lauch,  is  the  village  of  Lauttnhach-Zell. 

e.  From  H&Iliaaieii  to  Weiierling. 

20Vt  M.  Railway  in  li^  hr. ;  fares  2  m.  80,  1  m.  90,  1  m.  20  pf. 

Miilhausen,  see  p.  297.  This  railway  connects  the  main  line 
with  the  important  manufacturing  places  in  the  *8t.  Amarinthal, 
the  industrious  valley  of  the  Thur,  and  opens  up  to  visitors  an 
exceedingly  picturesque  tract  of  country.  —  2  M.  Domach ;  3  M. 
Lutterhach,  see  p.  297;  S^/^  M.  Sennheim,  Fr.  Cemay  (Zwei 
SchlGssel),  where  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Gewenheim  and 
Masmunster  (see  p.  322). 

12 M.  Thann (Kaiser;  Zwei Schlusael ;  CafisBeck  and  Engel),  the 
chief  town  of  the  district,  with  7600inhab.,  and  thriving  cotton  and 
silk-factories,  is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  narrow 
valley  of  the  Thur,  the  mountains  enclosing  "which  are  covered  with 
wood  on  their  upper,  and  vineyards  on  their  lower  slopes.  The 
*Church  of  St.  Theobald,  begun  in  1351,  the  choir  of  which  is  first 
visible  in  approaching  from  the  station,  is  a  gem  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. Its  bold  and  elegant  open  tower,  begun  in  1430  and  com- 
pleted in  1516  by  Meister  Remigius  Walch  (inscription  on  the  spire 
at  the  top) ,  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  later  Gothic,  far  sur- 
passing the  tower  at  Strassburg.  The  handsome  double  portal  on 
the  W.  side  also  deserves  attention.  The  interior  is  adorned  with 
carved  work  of  the  16th  cent.,  Gothic  stained-glass ,  and  a  fine 
painting ,  of  the  school  of  Martin  Schongauer,  of  Christ  amid  se- 
veral apostles. —  The  church  is  seen  to  advantage  from  the  EngeVburg, 
a  castle  crowning  an  eminence  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Thur  (which 
is  crossed  by  two  bridges),  and  commanding  the  town  and  entrance  to 
the  valley.  (The  route  to  the  castle  diverges  to  the  right  from  the 
main  street,  opposite  the  church.)  The  overthrown  tower  of  the 
castle,  which  was  destroyed  by  Turenne  in  1674,  somewhat  re- 
sembles a  huge  cask.  The  district  to  the  E.  of  the  Engelburg 
yields  the  'Rangener  wine',  which  is  mentioned  by  the  German 
historian  Milnster  as  early  as  1550.  The  Siaufen,  IY2  M.  from 
Thann,  is  a  fine  point  of  view. 

141/2  M.  Bitachweiler,  15^2  M.  Weiler,  two  industrious  villages, 
with  modern  Gothic  churches. 

The  Oebwktlbr  Brlghbn  is  best  ascended  from  Weiler.  The  road 
ascends  the  valley  of  the  Rennehaeh.  At  the  crucifix,  IV2  M.  from  the 
^'illage,  we  may  either  remain   in   the  valley  (to  the  left),  or  cross  the 


Vosgcs.  WESSERLING.  44.  Route.     321 

bridge  to  the  right,  and  turn  immediately  to  the  left,  cross  the  brook, 
and  ascend  the  cart-track.  In  about  IV4  hr.  we  reach  AUenbaeh.  The 
cart-road  continues  to  (5  M.)  the  Haager  Hiitte  (Rfmts.)  whence  the  summit 
may  be  reached  in  about  V^  hr.  The  Ghebweiler,  or  Sulxer  Belohen,  French 
Ball&n  de  BouUz  (46T7  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Vosges  Mts.,  affords  an 
extensive  panorama,  embracing  the  Black  Forest,  the  Jiira,  and  the  Alps. 
The  descent  on  the  N.  side  to  the  Lauchthal  (p.  319)  may  be  made  either 
past  the  Belchen-See  and  vi&  the  Roll  (Inn  opposite  the  falls  of  the  See- 
bach),  or  via  the  RedlerhHtte  to  Murbach  (p.  319).  To  the  E.  to  Gebweiler 
(p.  319).  —  St.  Amarin  is  also  a  favourite  starting  point  for  the  excursion 
to  the  Belcben  (Si/z  hrs.  \  numerous  guide-posts).  The  ascent  may  also 
be  made  from  Moosch  (see  below). 

Tlie  line  now  skirts  the  left  bank  of  the  stream.  17*/2  M. 
Moosch,  I8V2  M.  8t.  Amarin  (Goldener  Lowe),  one  of  the  most 
ancient  places  in  the  valley,  to  which  it  has  given  its  name.  Since 
its  destruction  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  St.  Amarin  has  been 
a  place  of  no  importance.    Then  — 

2OY2  M.  Wesserling  (^Hdtel  de  Wesserlingj  near  the  station),  a 
place  of  modern  origin,  built  partly  on  what  was  once  the  moraine 
ot  a  huge  glacier,  being  a  colony  of  extensive  cotton-factories,  with 
numerous  pretty  villas,  and  well-kept  pleasure-grounds  (between 
the  station  and  the  hotel,  beyond  the  bridge).  It  is  a  suitable 
spot  for  a  prolonged  stay.    Carriage  to  Wildenstein  in  II/4  hr.,  8  m. 

On  the  W.  slope  of  the  range  separating  Alsace  from  Lorraine,  immed- 
iately beyond  the  Col  de  Btissanff,  which  is  traversed  by  the  road  to 
Bemiremont,  5  M.  from  Wesserling,  the  ifotelle  takes  its  rise.  The  road 
leads  through  (2V2  M.)  the  frontier-village  of  Urhis  (Hdtel  de  la  Couronne, 
good).  On  the  top  is  a  tunnel  about  300  paces  in  length,  with  a  boundary- 
stone  in  the  middle,  just  beyond  which  is  the  source  of  the  river.  —  To 
the  S.E.  of  Urbis  lie  Storkentauen  and  (IV4  H.)  Mollau ,  where  a  dish  of 
fine  trout  may  be  enjoyed  at  the  inn. 

From  Wbssbblino  to  Wildbnstbin,  7  M.,  a  pleasant  route  for 
pedestrians.  A  good  road  ascends  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Thur, 
passing  through  the  thriving  villages  of  Felleringen  (Hirsch,  good 
cuisine),  Oderen  (Lowe ;  Adler),  and  (2^2  M.)  Kruthf  chiefly  in- 
habited by  the  operatives  of  the  Wesserling  factories. 

About  1 1/4  M.  beyond  Kriith,  and  the  same  distance  below  Wilden- 
stein, suddenly  rises  the  8chlo8$berg ,  an  isolated  and  precipitous 
wooded  eminence ,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  stand  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Wildenstein.  This  stronghold  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Abbey  of  Murbach  (p,  319),  by  which  it  was  surrendered  during  the 
Thirty  Years' War  to  Marshal  Caumont  de  la  Force.  In  1634  it  was 
betrayed  to  the  troops  of  Lorraine,  and  ten  years  later  was  taken  and 
destroyed  by  General  v.  Erlach,  the  commander  of  the  Weimar  troops. 

Wildenitein  (Sonne),  the  chief  place  in  the  St.  Amarinthal,  is 
almost  entirely  shut  in  by  rocky  heights. 

A  good  path,  made  by  the  Vosges  Club,  leads  from  Wildenstein  to 
the  Rotheiibaehhof  and  the  RothenbacJikopf  (p.  319).  Thence  a  pleasant  walk 
along  the  crest  of  the  hills  via  the  Rheinkopf  and  the  Hoheneck  (p.  317) 
to  the  SeMueht  (p.  317)  in  4V»-6  hrs. 

From  Wildenstein  across  the  Herrenberg  to  Metzeral  in  41/3  hrs.,  see 
p.  318.  

Baedekbr's  Bhine.    10th  Edit.  21 


322    R<mUd5.  BBUCHSAL. 

F&OM  Sbnnhbih  to  MasmCnstbb,  12  M.,  railway  in  1^4  1^^* 
(fares  1  m.  60,  1  m.  10,  65  pf. ).  The  stations  on  the  branch-line 
mentioned  at  p.  320  are  (3  M.)  Aspack,  (5  M.)  Burrihaupty  (7  M.) 
Owenheimy  (9  M.)  Sentheiniy  and  (IOV2  M.)  Aue.  —  12  M.  Km- 
mlbiiter,  Fr.  Massevattx  (*Adler)y  an  old  town  with  3300  Inhah., 
the  principal  place  in  the  DolUrthal.  This  picturesque  valley,  with 
its  imposing  ramifications,  merits  the  attention  of  tourists  (good 
inns). 

Farther  np  lie  Niederbruck ,  Kirchberg ,  Wegseheidy  and  (4  M.) 
Oberbruck  (omnibus  thus  far  twice  daily),  the  best  starting-point  for 
the  ascent  of  the  Waliche  Belchen,  or  Ballon  d' Alsace  (4080  ft.). 
The  route  ascends  the  Dollerthal  from  Oberbruck  to  (40  min.)  Se- 
wen  (Hirsch ;  Krone).  A  good  dub-path  leads  hence  past  the  new 
fish-ponds  to  the  (21/2  hrs.)  Ferme  Rosaye  (*Inn,  unpretending), 
abont  10  min.  from  the  top.  The  view  from  the  granite  summit  of 
the  Belchen  is  magnificent,  especially  in  the  direction  of  Belfort ; 
to  the  N.W.  it  is  somewhat  limited  by  the  Ballon  de  Servance, 
The  boundary  between  France  and  Alsace  is  about  10  min.  from 
the  top.  We  may  return  by  the  picturesque  road  leading  past  St, 
MauricCj  Buasang,  and  the  Source  of  ike  Moselle  (p.  321)  to  Wes- 
serling. 

The  following  excursions  may  also  be  made  from  Oberbruck:  by 
(40  min.)  Rimbachy  with  guide,  to  the  Stem-See  and  the  Rothe  Wasen  or 
Rouge  Oazon  (4096  ft. ;  fine  view) ,  and  then  to  Storkensauen  and  Wetser- 
Ung  (p.  321;  4  hrs.);  or  from  Bimbach  to  the  top  of  the  Ro*»berg  (view), 
with  descent  to  Koosch  (p.  321)  or  Thann  (p.  320). 

46.  From  Heidelberg  to  Baden. 

56V2  M.  Railway  in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  66,  5  m.  15,  3  m.  20  pf.). 
Carriages  generally  changed  at  Oos,  the  junction  for  Baden. 

Heidelberg,  see  p.  242.  2V2  M.  Kvrchheimi  5  M.  8i.  Ilgen; 
9M.  Wiesloch  (the  village  8/4  M.  from  the  line).  12  M.  Roth-Malsch ; 
14  M.  Mtngolsheim.  Before  reaching  Langenbrilcken,  we  pass ,  on 
the  right,  Kislau,  formerly  a  hunting-seat  of  the  Prince-Bishops  of 
Speyer,  and  now  a  penitentiary  for  women.  15  M.  Langenbraoken 
(Oehs;  Sonne)  y  a  small  village  with  sulphnr-baths.    17^/2  Vbstadt, 

22  M.  Bruehsal  (•H5<««  JTrifer,  ♦JRow,  both  near  the  station; 
*Rail.  Restaur. ,  at  the  back  of  the  station-buildings),  a  town  with 
11,657  Inhab.,  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  Speyer, 
whose  SchlosSy  a  handsome  Rococo  structure  of  the  beginning  of 
last  century,  elegantly  fitted  up  and  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Zick, 
merits  a  visit.  Opposite  the  Schloss,  which  stands  in  a  pretty  gar- 
den, is  a  large  Reservoir  built  in  the  form  of  a  small  chateau.  The 
castellated  building  to  the  left  of  the  line  is  a  Prison.  The  Church 
of  St.  Peter  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  last  bishops.  The  War 
Monument,  commemorating  the  campaign  of  1870-71,  is  in  the 
German  Renaissance  style.  —  Bruchsal  is  the  junction  for  the 
"Wurtemberg  linej  comp.  Baedeker's  Southern  Oermany. 


WILDBAD.  45,  BouU.    323 

Fbom  BkugbsaIi  to  Gebmkbbhbim,  16  M.,  railway  in  V4-1V«  hr.  (fares 
2  m.  70,  Im.  80,  1  m.  20  pf.).  Stations:  21/2  M.  KarUdorf;  S'/aM.  Grahen- 
Neudorf  (:^.  255)^  9  M.  Buttenheim;  11  M.  Philippsburg  (see  p.  255);  13  M. 
Rheintheim.  The  train  then  crosses  the  Bhine.  16  M.  Oermersheim,  see  ip.27i. 

On  the  Mlchaelsberg ,  near  (24^2  M.)  Vnter^Oromhach,  stands 
the  old  Michaels- Capelle.  On  an  eminence  near  (26*/4  M.)  Wein- 
garten  rises  the  tower  of  the  ruin  of  Sehmalenstein, 

31  M.  Dnrlach  (Karlshurg),  a  small  town  with  7500  inhab., 
the  capital  of  the  duchy  of  Baden-Durlach  from  1529  to  1771,  was 
almost  entirely  burned  down  by  the  French  in  1688.  The  lofty  and 
conspicuous  Watch  Tower  on  the  Thurmberg  (20  min.),  said  to  be  of 
Roman  origin,  commands  a  splendid  view. 

Fbom  Dublach  to  Pfobzhbim,  16  M. ;  thence  to  Wildbad,  14V«  M. 
more.  Railway  to  Wildbad  in  lV«-3  hrs.  (fares  4  m.,  2  m.  70,  I  m.  70  pf.). 
The  train  traverses  the  fertile  valley  of  the  PJim.  IV2M.  Griftzinffen;  3  M. 
Berghatuen;  8M.  SSlUngen;  ^tH.  Kteimteinbach ;  IOV2M.  Wilferding  en  (Krone). 
The  line  now  skirts  the  IT.  slopes  of  the  Black  Forest.  12>/2  M.  Kdnigs- 
bach;  12  M.  Ersingen;  14  M.  Ispringen. 

16  M.  Pforzheim  (*H6Ul  AuUnrieth ;  Sehwarger  Adler;  Rappen)^  a  thriving 
manufacturing  town ,  witii  27,207  inhab. ,  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the 
JBnt,  the  W'Urm,  and  the  Nagcld.  The  manufacture  of  gold  and  silver 
wares  is  largely  carried  on  here,  employing  upwards  of  10,000  workmen. 
A  number  of  substantial  new  buildings  have  sprung  up  at  Pforzheim  of 
late  years.  The  *' Schloiikirche^  close  to  the  station,  erected  in  the  12-15th 
cent,  in  the  Transition  stvle,  contains  a  number  of  monuments  of  the  Mar- 
graves of  Baden  of  the  i6th  century.  In  the  town  are  a  Btatue  of  Mar- 
grave  Ei-nest  (d.  1558),  the  founder  of  the  now  extinct  Baden-Durlach- 
Ernestine  family,  and  a  War  Monument.  A  branch-line  connects  Pforzheim 
with  Muhlacker,  where  it  joins  the  Bruchsal  line  to  Stuttgart.  —  Baihvay 
to  Calw,  Tubingen,  and  Constance,  see  Baedeker^*  Southern  Germany. 

The  Wildbad  Railway  continues  to  follow  the  pleasant,  grassy  valley 
of  the  Eng,  which  now  contracts.    2  M.  Brdteingen;  4  M.  Birken/eld. 

6  M.  BeuenbUrg  (Post)^  a  picturesquely-situated  little  town,  is  com- 
manded by  a  Schloss  (now  occupied  by  public  offices),  erected  in  1668  by 
Duke  Christopher  on  the  site  of  an  older  building,  on  a  wooded  height 
encircled  by  the  Enz.  Adjoining  the  Schloss  is  the  ruined  castle  called 
the  Fruchtspeicher^  with  some  Roman  relics.  Diligence  thrice  daily  to 
Herrenalb  (14  M.  •,  p.  355). 

The  train  crosses  the  Enz,  nasses  under  the  Schlossberg  by  a  tunnel, 
and  again  crosses  the  stream.  9  M.  Rothenbach;  lOVs  M.  EOfen;  12V2  M. 
Calnibach  (^Sonne),  with  a  handsome  new  church. 

14V2  M.  Wildbad  (^BadSotel;  *'BeUevue;  *Hotel  Klumpp  or  Bar;  charges 
at  these,  R.  2-3,  D.  3-5  m,;  *Frey;  Keim;  Hdtel  de  Russie,  etc.  —  Beer 
at  Miek"t)j  a  much-frequented  watering-place  with  3600  inhab.,  lies  in  the 
pine-clad  ravine  of  the  EnZy  on  both   sides  of  the  stream.    The  greater 

Sart  of  the  town,  with  the  principal  street,  the  bath-establishments,  and 
lie  hotels,  is  on  the  right  bank  5  the  railway-station  lies  on  the  other 
bank  at  the  N.  or  lower  end  of  the  town.  In  the  Cdb-Platz,  at  the  end 
of  the  Haupi-Strasse,  rises  the  Royal  Bad  Hotel  (Curhaus),  with  caf^,  read- 
ing, and  ball-rooms  (music  8-9  a.m.  and  6-7  p.-m.).  and  the  large  Bath 
Houeey  admirably  fitted  up.  The  thermal  springs  (94-180*  Fahr.),  which 
are  beneficial  in  cases  of  gout  and  rheumatism,  rise  immediately  from 
the  sand  in  the  baths  for  each  sex,  capable  of  containing  22  persons  each ; 
30  private  baths).  The  salutary  qualities  of  the  water,  which  contains 
no  mineral  ingredients,  are  ascribed  in  great  measure  to  its  being  used 
immediately  at  its  source.  The  bath  may  be  inspected  between  12  and  1 
(fee).  Annual  number  of  patients  about  6500.  An  elegant  iron  Trinkhalle 
(with  music-pavilion)  has  recently  been  erected  between  the  Enz  and  the 

21* 


324     Route  45,  CARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

Hfifel  Bellevue,  by  Bok  of  Stuttgart,  who  is  also  the  architect  of  the 
Katharinentti/l^  or  bath  for  the  poor.  Walks  and  pleasure-grounds  extend 
on  both  sides  of  the  river;  on  the  8.  (upper)  side  of  the  village,  past 
the  new  Roman  Catholic  church,  as  far  as  the  (1  H.)  Windhof,  a  caf^,  and 
on  the  H.  (lower)  side  to  the  (1  M.)  garden-restaurant  '^m  iUhlen  Brunnen*^ 
a  favourite  resort. . 

Excursions.  A  road  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Enz  to  (TV?  M.)  Enz- 
kldsterle  (Waldhorn")  and  (SM.)  OumpeUcheuerCLtkmm),  and  thence  to  (17  M.) 
Freudenst«dt  (p.  356).  Another  excursion  may  be  taken  by  the  small 
Wildsee^  which  tradition  has  peopled  with  water-sprites,  and  thence  to  the 
shooting-lodge  of  KaltenWonn  f2R47  ft.;  'Inn),  and  the  (V4  M.)  *Bohloh- 
thurm  (3250  ft. ;  view).  By  (4V«  M.)  EyachmUhl  to  (2V2  M.)  Dobel  and  (3  M.) 
Berrenalbf  see  p.  356. 

On  the  light  as  we  approach  Carlsruhe  is  8chlo88  Gottesaue 
(p.  3301. 

341/2  M.  Carlsruhe ,  see  below.  The  through-trains  to  Switzer- 
land generally  stop  here  for  dinner.  Railway  beyond  Carlsruhe, 
see  p.  331. 

Oarlsmhe.  —  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  3)  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
town ;  trains  to  Heidelberg,  see  above ;  to  Baden,  see  p.  331 ;  to  Pforzheim 
and  Wildbad,  see  p.  323;  to  Bretten  and  Wurtemberg,  see  Baedek«r*a 
Southern  Oermany.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  town  there  is  a  small  station 
('Miihlburgthor')  for  the  trains  to  Haxau  (p.  330)   and  Mannheim  (p.  252). 

Hotels.  Nemr  the  ttation:  *Gebmania  (PI.  a;  D,  3),  at  the  comer  of 
the  Kriegs-Str.  and  Carl-Friedrich»-8tr. ,  well  fitted  up,  R.  A  L.  from  2V2, 
A.  Va  m.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D.  3  m. ;  Victoria,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2,  D.  2V«  m.,  Bahn> 
hop-Hotel,  both  in  the  Kriegs-Str.  opposite  the  station.  —  *Prin2  Max, 
Adler-Str.;  Grunee  Hof  (PI.  e;  E,  8),  with  restaurant  and  garden.  —  In 
the  town:   *Erbprinz  (PI.  b;   D,  2),  Kaiser-Str.,  with  cafd  and  beer-room. 

—  *H6telGro88e  (PI.  c;  D,  2),  in  the  Garl-Friedrichs-Plfttz,  R.,  L.,  &  A. 
2V«  m.,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  2  m.  40 pf. ;  •Hotel  Stoffleth  iWeuser  Bar;  PI.  e; 
D,  3),  R.  1  m.  80,  B.  75  pf.,  and  Goldneb  Adleb  (PI.  f ;  D,  3),  R.  2,  D. 
2  m.,  both  in  the  Carl-Friedrichs-Str. ;  Rothes  Hacs,  Wald-Str.,  near  the 
theatre,  well  spokeu  of;  •Geist,  Kronen-Str.,  moderate.  —  Hotel  Garni 
Tanmhauser,  Kaiser-Str.  —  Boarding  House ;  FrUuUin  Nernstj  Douglas- 
Str.  5,  150-160  m.  per  month. 

Restaurants.  * Stadtgarten  ^  see  p.  330;  Engliteher  Hof^  in  the  mar- 
ket; •Zt/fn  EJro'kodily  Ludwigs-Platz ;  HunoWt  (Munchener  Kindl),  Carl- 
Friedrichs-Str.,  near  the  Germania  hotel;  also  at  the  above-named  hotels. 

Tramway  (fare  10,  on  Sun.  15  pf.)  from  Gottesaue  (on  the  E.)  through 
the  Kaiser-Str.  to  the  Miihlburger-Thor  (on  the  W.)  and  on  to  Miihlburg. 

—  Steam-Tramway  from  the  Durlacher-Thor  to  Durlach  every  20  min. 

Cabs.  One-horse  or  two-horse,  to  or  from  the  station,  1  pers.  50, 
2  pers.  70  pf,  3  pers.  1  m.,  4  pers.  1  m.  10,  luggage  20  pf.  —  Drives  within 
the  town:  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  for  1/4  hr.  50,  3-4  pers.  60  pf. ;  for  Va  hr. 
90  or  1  m.  10  pf. ;  two-horse  60,  90,  1  m.  10,  1  m.  60  pf.  —  To  the  Neue 
Friedhof  1  m.,  1  m,  40  pf.,  two-horse  1  m.  40,  1  m.  80  pf. ;  to  Durlach 
1  m.  80,  2  m.,  two-horse  2  m.,  2  m.  40  pf.  —  Double  fares  from  9  p.m.  to 
6  a.m.  (in  winter  8-7). 

Post  Office  (PI.  30;  D,  2),  Friedrichs-Platz  1,  entrance  from  the  Ritter- 
Str. ;  and  at  the  station. 

Telegraph  Office  (PI.  39;  D,  2),  comer  of  the  Herren-Str.  and  the 
Standehaus-Str. 

Theatre  (PI.  12;  D,  2),  four  times  a  week:  closed  from  15th  June  to 
15th  Aug. 

Baths.  Stddtisches  Vierordtsbad  (PI.  D,  4),  near  the  Stadtgarten,  ad- 
mirably fitted  up ;  RGmischer  Kaiser,  at  the  comer  of  Kaiser-Str.  and  Wald- 
Str.  —  In  the  Rhine,  at  Maxau  (p.  331),  to  which  special  morning  and 
'^.veiling  trains  convey  bathers  in  summer- 


Wagn«r  *  D«^«,  Ii«lp 


to  Baden,  OARLSRUHE.;  45,  RouU,    325 

English  Ohnroh  Service  in  the  chapel  of  the  Diaconisaen-Haua,  comer 
of  Sophien-Str.  and  Leopold-Str.,  at  11.30  a.m.  and  6  p.m.  Chaplain,  Rev. 
J.  B.  Harding^  Garten-btr.  21. 

Car^ruAe  (318  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  grand-duohy  of  Baden 
(61,074  inhah.,  2/5  Rom.  Cath.),  situated  6  M.  from  the  Rhine,  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  Hardtwald ,  is  a  clean,  well-built  town,  which 
owes  its  origin  to  the  Margrave  Charles  William ,  who  founded  a 
castle  here  in  1715  and  transferred  his  residence  hither  from  Dur- 
lach.  The  plan  of  the  old  town  resembles  a  fan,  the  streets  radiat- 
ing from  the  palace.  Several  distinct  architectural  styles  may  he 
observed:  The  palace  and  the  other  older  buildings  are  in  the 
French  style  prevalent  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  The 
structures  of  the  next  period  exhibit  the  simple  and  harmonious 
classical  forms  introduced  by  Friedrich  Weinbrenner  (d.  1826),  an 
architect  who  received  his  training  in  Rome.  His  principal  succes- 
sors were  Hubsch  (1795-1863)  and  Eisenlohr  (1805-1854),  who 
erected  many  handsome  buildings  in  the  modern  Romanesque  (round- 
arched)  style ,  and  long  determined  the  tone  of  Carlsruhe  architec- 
ture. The  stately  edifices  erected  in  recent  years  by  BerckmiUler  (d, 
1879),  Lang,  and  others  form  a  fourth  period,  marked  by  great 
diversity  of  style.  The  importance  of  Carlsruhe  as  an  industrial 
town  has  of  late  increased  very  rapidly.  Its  principal  manufactures 
being  engines  and  railway-carriages,  furniture,  and  plated  goods. 

In  front  of  the  railway  station  (PI.  D,  E,  3)  is  a  small  Platz, 
planted  with  trees,  and  embellished  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Winter 
(PI.  26 ;  d.  1838),  the  minister,  designed  by  Reich  and  executed  by 
Burgschmiet  in  1855.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  a  Monument 
erected  to  the  memory  of  the  German  soldiers  who  died  at  Carls- 
ruhe during  the  war  of  1870-71,  consisting  of  a  group  in  marble  by 
Yolz,  on  a  lofty  sandstone  pedestal. 

Opposite  the  memorial,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Carl-Friedrichs- 
Strasse,  stands  a  handsome  Fountain^  by  Lang,  with  marble  figures 
by  Moest,  erected  in  honour  of  Burgomaster  Malsch. 

The  CABL-FRiKDBicHS-STBAfiSE  (PI.  D,  3,  2),  extending  from 
the  site  of  the  old  Ettlinger  Thor  northwards  to  the  palace  (3/4  M.), 
is  one  of  the  main  streets  of  the  town.  The  chief  buildings  here 
are  all  by  Weinbrenner  j  and  present  a  handsome  and  uniform 
appearance.  In  the  Rondel -Platz  rises  an  06  ciisfc  ('Verfassungs- 
saule';  PI.  D,  3)  to  the  Grand  Duke  Carl  (1811-18),  the  'founder 
of  the  constitution^;  on  the  right  is  the  Margrave's  Palace^  by  Wein- 
brenner. 

The  Lande8-GeweTbehalle{V\.  23),  on  the  right,  contains  a 
^a'ood  industrial  museum  and  a  technical  library.  [Admission  daily 
except  Mon.  10-12  (on  Sun.  11-12)  and  2-4]. 

On  the  left  side  of  the  Markbt-Placb  (PI.  D,  2)  is  the  Town 
Hall  (PI.  31),  built  in  1821 ,  with  a  porch  containing  a  memorial 
tablet  to  the  natives  of  Carlsruhe  who  fell  in  1870-71,  and  on  the 


326    Route  45,  CARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

right  the  Protestant  Church  (PI.  17),  with  a  Corinthian  portico,  the 
burial-ohurch  of  the  grand-ducal  family.  Both  these  edifices  are  by 
Weinbrenner.  In  the  centre  of  the  market-place  is  a  fountain  with 
a  Statue  of  the  Grand  Duke  Uwia  (1818-1830;  JPl.  3),  by  Raufer. 

Farther  along  the  Carl-Friedrichs-Strasse,  near  its  intersection 
with  the  Kaiser-Strasse  fp.  330) ,  the  other  principal  street  of  the 
town,  is  a  Pyramid  (PI.  7)  in  honour  of  Margrave  Charles  William 
(p.  325),  who  is  buried  here. 

In  firont  of  the  palace,  in  the  centre  of  a  square  embellished 
with  gardens  and  fountains,  is  the  *  Bronze  Statue  of  the  Grand 
Duke  CharUi  Frederick  (PI.  2;  d.  1811),  by  Schwanthaler,  erected 
in  1844,  with  four  female  figures  at  the  corners  of  the  pedestal, 
emblematical  of  the  four  divisions  of  the  Duchy. 

The  Sdiloss  (PI.  D,  1),  erected  in  1754-76,  is  in  the  form  of 
a  semicircle ,  and  surmounted  by  the  Bleithurm  (150  ft.),  which 
affords  a  good  survey  of  the  town  and  the  Hardtwald.  The  dining- 
hall,  ball-room,  and  other  apartments  are  sumptuously  fitted  up.  In 
the  hall  is  a  fine  orchestrion,  which  is  generally  played  on  Sunday 
forenoons.  The  well-appointed  duoal  Stables  (open  12-4)  are  on 
the  £.  side. 

In  the  crescent  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Schloss-Platz,  connected 
with  the  Schloss  by  an  arcade,  is  the  Conrt  Theatre  (PI.  12), 
erected  in  1847-1853,  by  Hubschy  to  replace  one  which  had  been 
burned  down.  In  style  it  differs  from  other  large  theatres  in  being 
Romantic  instead  of  classic.  The  pediment  contains  (r.)  reliefs  of 
Goethe,  Schiller,  and  Lessing,  and  (1.)  of  Mozart,  Beethoven,  and 
Gluck ;  in  the  centre  the  Muse  of  the  Drama ;  all  by  Reich,  In  the 
interior  the  new  drop-scene,  painted  by  Keller^  merits  inspection. 

An  arched  passage  in  the  W.  wing  of  the  Schloss  leads  to  the  Palace 
Garden  (PI.  D,  1),  recently  embellished  with  fountains,  etc,  which  extends 
into  the  Hardtwald.  About  260  yds.  X.W.  of  the  Bleithunu,  in  a  small 
avenue,  is  a  monument  to  the  poet  H^el  (PI.  4),  erected  in  1835  (comp. 
pp.  363  and  382).  Adjacent  is  a  figure  of  Victory^  presented  by  the  Emp. 
William  in  1877  on  the  completion  of  the  25th  year  of  the  Grand  Duke's 
reign.  To  the  left,  at  some  distance  from  the  house,  stands  a  marble  group 
of  Hermann  and  Dorothea  by  Steinhauser.  Farther  on  to  the  right  is  a 
small  temple  containing  a  bust  of  Carl  Friedrich. 

Behind  the  Court  Theatre  is  the  Botanic  Garden  (PI.  D,  1,  2^  closed 
on  Sat.  and  Sun.,  and  from  12-2  on  other  days),  with  a  Winter  Garden 
(PL  43^  open  on  Mon.  and  Frid.,  10-12  and  2-4),  containing  a  palm- 
house,  pond  for  the  Victoria  Regia,  orangery,  green-houses,  etc.,  con- 
structed in  1853-56  from  designs  by  HUbsch.^  to  whom  a  monument  has  been 
erected  here.  The  usual  entrance  to  the  Botanic  Garden  is  in  the  Linken- 
heimer-Strasse  (p.  329). 

Adjacent  is  the  *Hall  of  Art  (PI.  21 :  D,  2;  generally  called  the 
'Academiegebaude'),  built  by  Hubsch  (1836-45)  in  the  modern  Ro- 
manesque style,  containing  coUections  of  pictures,  casts,  and  anti- 
quities (entrance  from  the  Linkenheimer-Strasse).  The  sculptures 
at  the  entrance  are  by  Reich.  The  collections  are  open  to  the 
public  on  Wed.  and  Sun.,  11-1  and  2-4;  at  other  times  fee  ^/2-im. 
\talogue  1  m. 


io  Baden. 


OARLSRUHE. 


45.  Route.     327 


Oround-Floor.  On  the  left  U  tlie  saloon  of  the  Carltruhe  Art  Union 
(adm.  20  pf.),  containing  a  collection  of  modem  pictures  and  other  works 
of  art,  chiefly  by  artists  of  Garlsrnhe  (for  sale).  —  On  the  ground-floor 
are  also  several  rooms  and  cabinets  containing  casts  of  ancient  and  mod- 
em sculptures. 

Staircase.  "Frescoes  by  Sehwind.  executed  in  1840,  representing  the 
consecration  of  Freiburg  Cathedral  by  Duke  Conrad  of  Zahringen.  The 
standard-bearer  is  a  portrait  of  the  Orand  Duke  Leopold,  with  his  son  by 
his  side  \  the  workman  with  the  white  collar  to  the  right  of  the  entrance 
is  the  architect  Hiibsch;  the  crowned  female  figures  are  portraits  of  the 
Grand  Duchess  and  her  daughters ;  Schwind  himself  is  seen  on  the  scaf- 
folding to  the  right;  to  the  left  is  Sabina,  daughter  of  Erwin  of  Steinbach 
(comp.  p.  283),  to  the  right  is  Baldung  Grien,  painting  the  Margrave 
Christopher  I.  (see  below).  —  The  allegorical  paintings  in  the  lunettes 
are  also  by  Schwind:  that  in  the  middle  represents  Art  protected  by  the 
Church  and  State  \  on  the  right  are  Fancy  and  Wealth,  on  the  left  Science 
and  Peace.  —  Another  part  of  the  wall  is  adorned  with  a  continuation 
of  the  under-mentioned  Procession  of  Children  by  Schwind ,  and  the  car- 
toon for  OverhecVt  'Triumph  of  Christianity  in  the  Arts'  (p.  221). 

First  Floor.  The  Fibst  Cobbidor  (to  the  left)  contains  a  few  cartoons 
by  Overheek^  Schwind  (Procession  of  Children),  and  Sehnorr  von  CaroU- 
feld  (scenes  from  the  ll^ibelungenlied  in  the  Palace  at  Munich  and  from 
the  'Orlando  Furioso'  in  the  Villa  Massimi  at  Rome),  and  a  number  of 


6.  Cab.  ' 

'V' 

1 

— 

8. 
Cab. 

7. 
cab. 

IV.  Room. 

1 

5           4 

6 

2.  Cab. 

I.  Room. 

1 

1. 
Cab. 

III. 
Room. 

ipil 

II. 
Room. 

Second  Corridor. 

•     • 

• 

1 

First  Corridor. 

1 

1 

early  German  and  Netherlandish  works.  2nd  Section:  69,  60.  Bernhard 
Stngely  Pietji,  Mocking  of  Christ ;  64.  Ham  Holbein  the  Younger  (or  perhaps 
the  Elder f).  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  with  numerous  figures;  67,  66.  Hol- 
bein the  Younger^  SS.  George  and  Ursula,  probably  the  wings  of  an  altar- 
piece;  Hans  Baldung,  sumamed  Orien,  88.  Margrave  Christopher  I.  of 
Baden  and  his  family  kneeling  before  the  Virgin  and  St.  Anna,  87.  Mar- 
grave Christopher  I.,  89.  Portrait  of  the  artist;  109.  Lueae  Cranaeh  the 
Elder y  Judgment  of  Paris,  Paris  and  Hermes  in  the  guise  of  Saxon  knights. 
8rd  Section:  121.  Sehooi  of  Cranaeh,  Luther  after  death;  98-101.  Winged 
altar-pieces  bj^ant  Burgkmaier,  Earth.  Beham,  and  H.  von  Kuhnbaeh;  168. 
yic.  NeuehateX  (d.  1600),  Portraits.  This  section  also  contains  a  large  en- 
caustic painting  by  Dan.  Fohr,  representing  St.  Boniface  preaching  to  the 
heathen  Chattl,  after  having  felled  their  sacred  oak  at  Frltzlar.  —  Cab.  I. 
(to  the  left):  188.  Joh.  HuUmann  (d.  after  1646),  Heidelberg;  213.  Frane 
Snyder $,  Gigantic  cabbages;  190.  Oeorg  Penet,  Life-size  portrait  of  a 
citizen  of  Nuremberg.  —  We  now  enter  — 

Room  I.  (beginning  on  the  right).  186.  Joe.  Jordaene,  Moses  bringing 
water  from  the  rock;  294.  Com.  Janssens,  Portrait;  196.  Teniers  the  Younger, 
Village-doctor;  Adr.  Brouwer,  *19l.  Sleeping  peasant,  *192.  Dentist;  ^236. 
Barth.  van  der  Helei,  Young  married  couple ;  318.  Jan  Both,  Italian  landscape ; 
339.  Jan  van  der  Heyde,  Dutch  street-scene,  with  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde; 
Willem  van  AeUt,  361.  Butterfly  and  thistle.  Snail  and  spider,  350.  Still- 
life  piece  dated  1668;  842.  Lud.  Bakhuieen,  Harbour;  A.  van  de  Velde, 
292.  Shepherd  reposing,  291.  Cattle  in  a  wood;  «329.  Jan  Wynants,  Land- 


328    BouU46.  OABLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

•c*pe,  with  6gure«  by  A.  van  de  Velde.  ^  *'238.  Bembrandt^  Fantastic  por- 
trait of  himself,  1633;  239.  Oov.  Flinch,  Portrait;  *244,  245.  A.  van  Ostade, 
Uumorous  scenes  of  peasant-life,  early  works  (signed  A.  y.  O.);  *272. 
Frans  van  MitrU  the  Elder,  Portrait,  a  youthful  work;  "261.  Oabriel  MetMU, 
Cavalier  and  Friesland  lady  driDking  wine,  an  admirable  example  of 
Metsu's  powers;  *260.  Jan  Steen,  Husband  and  wife  in  a  garden;  301. 
Karel  du  Jardm,  Shepherdess  and  cattle;  S35.  Jae.  van  Ruiedael,  Forest 
scene;  259.  Pieter  de  Hooch,  Woman  and  girl  in  a  room  overlooking  a 
garden;  332,  333.  Aart  van  der  Neer^  Moonlight-scenes;  ffiO.  Jan  van  Huy- 
eum.  Flowers  (dated  1714);  Dou,  *266.  Herring-seller  (1652),  *268.  Lace-maker, 
«267.  Repentant  Magdalene.  ^  <^344-346.  M.  d'ffondecoeter.  Poultry;  388. 
Jan  Weenix,  Dead  hare;  264.  Caspar  NeUcher,  Cleopatra;  P.  van  Slinge- 
land,  *270.  Family-scene,  269.  Mother  and  child;  285.  Pieter  van  der 
Werff,  Adam  and  Eve;  375-377.  Rachel  Ruyech,  Still-life. 

Boom  II.  To  the  right:  403.  Ific.  Aluwno  (Umbrian  painter,  d.  1502), 
Crucifixion,  with  the  Virgin,  John  the  Evangelist,  and  the  Magdalene, 
below  Pope  Gregory,  with  worshipping  Christians,  a  genuine  but  repainted 
work  (dated  1468) ;  449.  Ann.  Carracd,  Man  laughing.  —  409.  Lorenzo  di  Credi 
(Florentine  master,  1459-1537),  Madonna  and  John  adoring  the  Holy  Child, 
a  late  work,  in  good  preservation;  416.  Ane.  Feuerbach,  Reduced  copy  of 
Titian's  Assumption  at  Venice.  —  440.  A.  Bronzino,  Xobleman ;  460.  Salva- 
tor  Rosa,  Italian  mountain-scene ;  several  copies  of  works  by  Raphael;  437. 
Innocenzo  da  Imola,  Madonna. 

Cab.  2.  468.  Phil,  de  Champaigne,  Portrait;  483.  Oreuze,  Louis  XVI.; 
480.  Fr.  Boucher,  Genre-seenes  (in  the  style  of  Watteaa) ;  477,478.  Orimou, 
Portraits  of  girls ;  495-499.  J.  B.  Ghardin,  Still-life.  A  few  works  by  Spanish 
artists.  —  The  following  rooms  contain  the  modem  works. 

Cab.  3.  588.  K.  Frommel,  Heidelberg;  650-658.  Kunz,  Animal-pieces; 
609.  Overbeck,  Raising  of  Lazarus.  —  Cab.  4.  521.  M.  von  Schwind,  Ritter 
Kurt's  Bridal  Procession ,  a  humorous  composition  in  the  old-German 
manner,  bearing  the  motto,  'Widersacher,  Weiber,  Schulden,  ach!  kein 
Ritter  wird  sie  los'  (Of  foes,  women,  and  debts,  alas  \  no  knight  can  get 
rid);  this  work  was  bought  in  1839  by  the  Grand  Duke,  who  afterwards 
persuaded  the  artist  to  reside  in  Carlsruhe  for  several  years.  Above, 
612.  Schirmer,  Gathering  storm  in  the  Campagna;  646.  A.  von  Bayer,  Strass- 
burg  Cathedral;  576.  L.  Rachel,  The  gentle  passion;  670.  Tidemand,  The 
grandmother''s  bridal  crown.  —  Cab.  5.  575.  F.  Hiddemann,  Funeral  in 
Westphalia  (dated  1877);  56(^563.  Kimer,  Rustic  scenes  in  the  Black 
Forest  and  in  Italy;  60^.  Ernst  Fries,  Italian  scene;  645.  A.  von  Bayer, 
Jeanne  de  France  in  the  convent  of  Bourges.  —  Cab.  6.  647.  A.  von 
Bayer.  Freiburg  Cathedral;  *622.  Lindemann-Frommel ,  Scene  on  the  coast 
of  Italy;  666.  Karl  Roux,  Dorothea  among  the  emigrants  (from  Goethe); 
548.  Jul.  ScholU,  Wallenstein's  banquet. 

Room  III.  Feodor  Dietz,  542.  Destruction  of  Heidelberg  by  M^lac, 
543.  Queen  Maria  Eleonora  by  the  coffin  of  Gustavus  Adolphus;  553.  W. 
Emele,  Battle  of  Nuits  (Dec.  18th,  1870) ,  with  Prince  William  of  Baden 
issuing  orders;  ^552.  Nikutowsky,  Passage  of  the  Beresina  by  Napoleon  in 
1812;  619.  A.  Achenbach,  Steamer  in  collision  with  an  iceberg;  637.  Hans 
Qude,  Coast  of  Korway. 

Room  IV.  '*574.  Rie/siahl,  Funeral-ceremony  in  the  mountains;  554. 
Ferd.  Keller,  Margrave  Lewis  of  Baden  in  the  Turkish  war ;  611.  J.  W. 
achirmer.  Via  Mala ;  K.  F.  Lessing,  535.  Wooded  Ravine,  with  figures  of 
the  period  of  the  Thirty  Tears'  War,  *533.  Scene  from  the  First  Crusade ; 
622.  Winierhalfr,  Grand  Duke  Leopold  of  Baden;  667.  Schmitson^  Horse 
shying ;  613-616.  J.  W.  Schirmer,  Parable  of  the  Good  Samaritan,  in  four 
scenes,  with  extensive  landscapes;  534.  K.  F.  Letting,  Dispute  between 
Luther  and  Eck  at  Leipzig  in  1519  in  presence  of  Duke  George  of  Saxony 
and  Prince  John,  a  very  effective  composition;  ^i.Ant.  FeuertMch,  Dante 
and  the  ladies  of  Ravenna,  painted  in  imitation  of  Palma  Vecchio; 
Poetry  (over  life-size);  ^2.  Steinle,  Mary  and  Elizabeth  (over  the  en- 
trance). 

Cab.  7.  To  the  left :  571.  Ten  Kate,  Genre-scenes ;  *577.  Wilhelm  Sohn, 
A  matter  of  conscience ;   620.  And.  Acftenbach,  Norwegian  landscape ;  596. 


to  Baden.  OABLSEUHE.  45,  Route.     329 

Rotimann^  Buined  temple  in  ^gina.  —  To  the  right :  RoUmann,  594.  Lake 
Copaia,  595.  Delos ;  567.  /.  Becker^  A  proposal  of  marriage ;  649.  Ans.  Feuer- 
hach ,  Satyr  playing  the  flute  to  the  infant  Bacchus.  —  Cab.  8.  Water- 
colours  by  W.  Dilrr^  Ad.  Schrddter^  etc. 

We  now  return  to  the  staircase  through  the  Second  Corridob  (which 
contains  cartoons  by  Veit,  Hess^  Schnorr  von  OaroUfeldy  and  others),  and 
the  Cabinet  of  Engravings  (open  on  Thurs.  10-12). 

Near  the  Academy  of  Art  is  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  Botanic 
Garden  (p.  326).  Beside  it  is  a  colossal  bust  of  the  architect 
Hiibsch  (p.  325).  On  the  other  side  of  the  Linkenheimer-Strasse, 
nearly  opposite  the  Academy,  rises  the  imposing  new  Palace  of 
Justice  (PI.  16 ;  C,  2),  built  by  Leonhard  (d.  1878),  and  accom- 
modating all  the  superior  law-courts  of  Baden. 

Farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Bismabok - Strassb ,  which 
diverges  to  the  left,  are  the  Headquarters  of  the  XJV.  Corps  d'Armee 
(PI.  42;  0,  1),  built  by  Devin,  and  generally  called  the  Palais 
Werder^  after  the  victor  of  Belfort,  who  was  the  first  commandant 
of  the  corps.  —  At  the  W.  end  of  the  Bismarck-Strasse  lies  the 
School  of  Art  (PI.  B,  2 ;  director,  Karl  Boux)^  founded  by  Grand 
Duke  Frederick  in  1853,  and  supported  by  him  till  1876,  when 
Government  relieved  him  of  the  burden.  —  The  Westend-Strasse, 
which  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  Bismarck-Strasse,  and  also  the 
Kunstschul-Strasse  to  the  right,  contain  numerous  handsome  villas. 
In  the  same  neighbourhood  are  the  handsome  residences  of  Hr. 
Douglas  (corner  of  the  Stephanien-Str.  and  Douglas-Str.)  and  Hr. 
Schmieder  (Carl-Str.). 

The  finest  square  in  Carlsruhe  is  the  Fbisdbichs-Platz  (PI.  D, 
2,  3),  which  is  surrounded  with  imposing  modern  buildings ,  and 
embellished  with  pleasure-grounds,  a  fountain,  and  a  group  of 
Orestes  and  Pylades  by  Steinhauser.  On  the  N.W.  side  is  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church  (Pi.  18;  D,  2),  built  by  Weinbrenner  in 
the  style  of  the  Pantheon.  The  square  is  traversed  from  E.  to  W. 
by  the  Erbprinzen-Strasse  and  bounded  on  the  N.  by  a  row  of  ar- 
cades and  shops.  On  the  E.  side  are  the  Central  Offices  of  the  Baden 
Railways  (PL  9)j  and  on  the  S.  is  the  imposing  museum  of  the  Ver- 
einigte  Saimnlnngen  (PI.  41 ;  D,  3),  with  its  conspicuous  central 
portion  somewhat  resembling  a  triumphal  arch,  erected  by  Berck- 
mulUr  in  1865-72.  The  four  marble  figures  are  by  Steinhauser. 
The  staircase  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Keller  and  Gleichauf.  The 
grand-dncal  collections  are  open  to  the  public  on  Sun.  and  Wed., 
11-1  and  2-4 ;  at  other  times  on  payment  of  a  fee.   Catalogue  50  pf . 

On  the  ground-floor,  to  the  right,  is  the  ^Collection  of  Antiquities 
(good  catalogue).  Vestibule.  Altar  of  St.  Maurice,  from  Weisweil 
(16th  cent.).  —  Rook  I.  Important  collection  of  Greek  and  Italian  vasea 
and  terracottas,  the  latter  chiefly  from  Sicily:  1.  (in  the  centre)  Amphora 
from  Girgenti,  with  Zeus  before  the  birth  of  Athena  \  4  (behind,  to  the 
right)  Amphora  from  Ruvo,  with  Orpheus  and  Proserpine;  7.  (in  front, 
to  the  lett)  Amphora  from  the  Basilicata,  of  very  fine  workmanship.  The 
terracottas  (several  from  Tanagra)  include  some  excellent  miniature 
figures.  —  Room  II.  Mithras  reliefs  from  Neuenheim  (16,  to  the  right)  and 
Osterburken  (118,   to  the  left).     This   room   also   contains  Major  Maler's 


330     Route  45.  CARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

"Collection  of  Bronzes,  which  includes  fine  Etruscan  weapons,  helmets, 
armour,  shields,  and  vessels.  Etruscan  tripod;  gold  ornaments  and  ar- 
ticles in  ivory  (Roman  dice),  and  antique  Italian  sculptures  (*Marsyas, 
Athlete,  Giant,  Yenus).  —  Room  III.  Smaller  German  antiquities,  chiefly 
of  the  flint,  Roman,  and  Merovingian  periods.  Ethnographical  Collection.  — 
Room  IV.  Old  Weapons,  chiefly  'Turkish  spoils  of  war  captured  by  Margrave 
Lewis  William  (p.  354).  —  A  Hall  in  the  central  part  of  the  building 
contains  Roman  and  medisBval  stone  monuments,  models  of  the  excavations 
near  Heidelberg,  etc. 

On  the  ground-floor,  to  the  left,  is  the  Mineralogical  and  Geological 
Collection. 

The  upper  floor  contains  the  Zoological  Collection,  the  Modem  Weapons^ 
with  models  of  cannons  in  the  Baden  arsenal,  the  Library,  with  about 
150,000  volumes  and  a  handsome  reading-room  (adm.  Sun.  11-1,  week-days 
10-1  &  6-8),  and  lastly  the  Cahinet  of  Coins. 

The  Kaisbb-Staabsb,  a  street  1^2  ^*  ^ong,  flanked  with  hand- 
Bome  modern  houses  and  attraetive  shops,  runs  through  the  centre  of 
the  town  from  E.  to  W.  At  the  comer  of  the  Kaiser-Str.  and  the 
Kronen-Str.  rises  the  new  Synagogue  (PI.  38;  E,  2),  built  by 
Darm  in  the  Oriental  style  with  Renaissance  details.  At  the  E. 
end  of  the  Kaiser-Str.  is  the  Polyteehnic  School  (PI.  E,  2),  erected 
by  Hiihaeh  in  1836  and  considexably  enlarged  by  Fischer  in  1863. 
Over  the  entrance  are  stone  statues  of  Keppler  and  Erwin  of  Stein- 
bach,  by  Raufer.  In  the  vestibule  is  a  tablet  recording  the  names 
of  the  students  who  fell  in  the  war  of  1870-71,  and  in  the  court  is  a 
bust  of  Prof.  Redtenbacher  (d.  1867),  the  engineer,  by  Moest.  This 
•Institution  is  the  oldest  of  the  kind  in  Germany,  and  is  attended 
by  about  350  students. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Polytechnic  School  and  approached  by  the 
Waldhorn-Strasse  is  the  Old  Cemetery  (VI.  F,  3),  which  merits  a  visit. 
The  Preiusen-Derikmal,  in  memory  of  Prussians  who  fell  in  the 
revolution  of  1849,  was  erected  in  1851  from  designs  furnished  by 
King  Frederick  WiUiam  IV.  The  cemetery  also  contains  a  War 
Morhument  in  commemoration  of  the  campaign  of  1870-71. 

Farther  on,  about  1/2  ^'  ^ro™  ^^^  Durlacher  Thor  (tramway),  is 
the  Schloss  Gotteaane  (PI.  G,  3),  erected  by  Margrave  Carl  II.  in 
1553  on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine  abbey  dating  from  1110,  and  en- 
larged by  Ernst  Friedrich  in  1588.  The  interior  has  been  fitted  up 
as  an  artillery-barrack,  but  the  exterior  with  its  five  towers  and 
somewhat  heavy  ornamentation  has  remained  unaltered.  A  large 
new  Military  Prison  has  been  erected  in  the  vicinity.  —  Nearly 
opposite  Schloss  Gottesaue,  to  the  left,  diverges  the  road  leading  to 
the  fine  NKVf  Obmetbby  (PI.  G,  1),  which  lies  about  1  M.  from  the 
Durlacher  Thor  and  was  laid  out  by  the  architect  Durm. 

Pleasant  walks  are  afforded  by  the  Palace  Garden  (p.  326),  the 
Wildpark  (permission  obtained  from  the  Intendant  of  the  Grand- 
ducal  Domains  or  at  the  Grand-ducal  Administration  of  Forests), 
the  Hardtwald,  the  grounds  of  the  Sallenwdldchen  (PI.  D,  4) ,  and 
the  adjacent  Stadtgarten  (fee  of  20  pf.),  which  contains  a  zoological 
collection  and  a  large  concert  and  ball  room  (*Restaurant),  where  a 
military  band  plays  frequently  in  the  afternoon  (adm.  50  pf.).     On 


to  Baden.  RASTATT.  45.  Route.    331 

the  N.  margin  of  the  Stadtgarten  is  the  Viefordtsbad  (p.  324),  built 
hy  Daim  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style  in  1873. 

Fbom  Gablsbdhb  to  Land  ad,  25  M.,  by  railway  in  IV2  hr.  (fares 
3  m.  90,  2  m.  60,  1  m.  70  pf.).  I'A  M.  MUhlburgthor ;  3M.  MUhlburg;  4V2  M. 
KnMingen  \  674  M.  Maxau  (baths,  see  p.  324),  where  the  Rhine  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge-of-boats *,  then  MaxttMliamau^  8  M.  Wdrth^  junction  for  the 
railway  to  Speyer  and  Lanterburg  (p.  2f75)i  12  M.  Langenkand^l-^  and 
17  H.  Winden.  where  the  line  joins  the  Palatinate  railway.  —  25  M.  Lan- 
dau^ see  p.  266.  

Soon  after  the  train  has  quitted  the  Carlsruhe  station,  the  two 
towers  of  the  church  of  Bulaeh  (erected  by  Hiibsch)  are  seen  on 
the  right.  To  the  left  wooded  hills. 

38  M.  Ettlingen  (*Erhprm%),  an  industrial  town  with  6200  in- 
hab.,  and  large  shirting,  velvet,  and  paper  manufactories;  paper 
has  been  made  here  since  1482.  Diligence  to  Herrenalb  (12*/2  M. ; 
p.  365),  twice  daily.  —  43  M.  Malsch,  whence  a  pleasant  wooded 
path  leads  by  FteioUhtim^  Mooshrunn^  and  Bemhach  to  Herrenalb 
(p.  355).  45V2  M.  Muggenaturm.  The  mountains  of  the  Murgthal 
bound  the  view  on  the  left. 

481/2  M.  Bastatt  (407  ft.  y  ^Kreuz^  in  the  market-place ;  Lowe, 
Postf  plainer ;  omnibus  from  the  station  into  the  town ,  30  pf .) 
junction  for  the  railway  (*Murgthalbahn')  to  Gemsbach  (p.  353).  The 
town,  with  11,745  inhab.,  formerly  an  insignificant  place,  burned 
by  the  French  in  1689 ,  but  soon  afterwards  rebuilt  in  a  superior 
style  by  the  celebrated  Imperial  general  Margrave  Lewis  of  Baden 
(d.  1707),  was  the  residence  of  the  Margraves  till  the  line  became 
extinct.  It  was  fortified  by  the  Austrians  in  1840.  From  1844  to 
1866  Rastatt  was  one  of  the  fortresses  of  the  German  Confederation. 

The  handsome  Palace  (no  admission),  completed  by  the  Mar- 
gravine Sibylla  Augusta  (p.  354),  now  used  for  military  purposes, 
stands  on  a  hill,  and  is  crowned  with  a  gilt  statue  of  Jupiter. 

In  one  of  the  apartments  the  peace  between  France  and  Austria, 
which  terminated  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  was  signed  by 
Prince  Eugene  of  Savoy  and  Marshall  Villars.  A  congress  held  here 
in  1797-99  between  Austria  and  Germany  on  the  one  side  and 
France  on  the  other  led  to  no  result,  and  at  its  close  the  two  French 
delegates  were  barbarously  murdered  by  Austrian  hussars  in  an  ad- 
jacent wood,  but  at  whose  instigation  it  was  never  discovered. 

The  Baden  revolution  began  at  Rastatt  in  1849  with  a  mutiny 
of  the  soldiery,  and  it  was  also  terminated  here  by  the  surrender 
of  the  fortress  to  the  Prussians  after  a  siege  of  three  weeks. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Murg,  and  reaches  — 

54  M.  Ooi»  whence  a  branch-line  (change  carriages)  ascends  the 
Oosthal  in  10  min.  to  (661/2  M.)  Baden. 


332 

46.  Baden  and  Environs. 

Comp.  Map. 

ArriTftl.  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  A,  1)  is  on  the  K.W.  side  of  the 
town.  Porter  from  the  train  to  a  cab.  5  pf.  for  each  article  of  luggage ; 
for  carrying  a  trunk  into  the  town  30  pf.,  more  than  one  20  pf.  each, 
light  articles  10  pf.  each  j  after  11  p.m.  35,  30,  20  pf.  —  Cab  CPackdroschke^): 
V4  hr.  for  1-2  pers.  70  pf,  for  3-4  pers.  Im.  5  pf  5  for  »/«  hr.  Im.  6  or 
1  m.  40  pf.  (to  Lichtenthal  Im.  40  or  1  m.  70 pf.)^  from  9  to  12  p.m.,  1  m. 
5,  1  m.  40,  1  m.  4(),  and  1  m.  70  pf. ;  from  midnight  to  5  a.m.,  1  m.  40,  1  m. 
70,  1  m.  70,  and  2  m.  16  pf.  \  each  box  20  pf.  —  Omnibtu  into  the  town 
30,  luggage  20  pf. 

Hotels.  * ViGTOBiA  (PI.  V ;  C, 3),  Sophien-Str.  3,  in  the  Leopolds-Platz,  with 
lift  \  *Badi8Gher  Uof  (PI.  b  ^  B,  2),  Lange-Str.  22,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
town,  with  baths  and  pleasant  garden,  patronized  by  the  English,  'pens'. 
8>10m.;  ^EiTOUSCHXft  Hot  (PLh^  B,4),  Sophien-6tr.  2,  by  the  Promenaden- 
Briicke,  D.  4m.;  *Edbofaisoh£K  Hop  (PI.  i;  B,  3),  Promenaden>Platz  2,  B. 
from  2Va  m.,  good  cuisine  j  *Stkphamikn-Bad  (PI.  uj  C,  5),  a  large  building 
in  the  Lichtenthaler  Allee,  with  baths  and  garden  and  the  dlpendances 
Villa  Stephanie  and  Chalet  Stephanie,  'pens.'  from  8  m. ;  '^Grand  Hotel 
Bellevub,  Maria- Victoria-Str.  (PI.  C,  6),  a  large  detached  buildii^  with  a 
largo  garden  extending  towards  the  Lichtenthaler  Allee;  Hotel  Messmkr, 
open  only  from  June  till  Septr.  15th,  with  the  dlpendances  Villa  Helena, 
Villa  Wiluelma,  and  Schweizsehaus,  'pens.'  9-12  m. ;  ^Hollandisgher 
Hop  (PI.  m ;  C,  4),  Sophien-6tr.  14,  with  garden  and  the  d^pendance  Pen- 
sion BEALsfijouR  (PI.  d;  B,  C,  3)-,  ^Rdssischer  Hop  (PI.  qj  B,  2),  Prome- 
naden-Platz  4;  *Franz68I8Cher  Hop  (PI.  k-,  B,  3),  Louisen-Str.  34;  *Zah- 
rinoer  Hop  (PI.  e;  B,  2),  Lange-Strasse  63,  with  baths.  Average  charges 
at  all  these  hotels:  B.  from  2m.,  L.  60-70  pf.,  A.  60-75  pf.,  D.  3-4  m.,  B. 
IV4-IV2  ™-»  'pens.'  from  7-8  m.  —  Charges  somewhat  lower  at  the  follow- 
ing: *Stadt  Baden  (PI.  S;  A,  1),  at  the  railway  station;  Hirbgh  (PI.  I; 
B,  3),  HirschStr.  1,  with  baths,  R.  &  A.  2V<,  B.  1,  D.  2V8  m.,  *pen8.'  from 
5Vam.;  *Darm8tadtbr  Hop  (PI.  e;  C,  2),  Gemsbache^Str.  1,  with  baths, 
R.  2,  L.  V2,  B.  1,  D.  3  m.;  *Peteb8bgbger  Hop  (PI.  r;  C,  3),  Gernsbacher- 
Str.  9,  with  baths  and  restaurant,  B.  2  m.,  A.  60,  L.  50  pf.,  B.  1,  D.  2>/4  m., 
'pens.'  from  6  m. ;  '^Deutscher  Hop  (PI.  f ;  B,  2),  Lange-Str.  49,  with  restau- 
rant, D.  2V«m.,  'pens.'  from  5  m.;  Oberst  (PI.  o;  B,  3).  Louisen-Str.  1, 
'pens.'  5  m.;  Muller,  Lange-Str.,  well  spoken  of,  B.  1  m.  40  pf.;  Bai- 
RiscHER  Hop  (PI.  c ;  A,  1),  Lange-Str.  19,  opposite  the  station,  with  garden, 
convenient  for  passing  travellers;  Goldenbr  Stbrn  (PI.  x;  B,  3),  Lange- 
Str.  46,  commercial,  well  spoken  of;  ^Drbi  KOniob  (PI.  g;  B,  3j,  Lange- 
Str.  62,  D.  2V2  m.,  good  cuisine;  Zum  Baldeeit,  Kiifer-Str.  6,  near  the 
market,  with  baths,  unpretending,  'pens.'  4-5  m.;  Eamherer,  Schloss-Str. 
18,  unpretending  but  good,  'pens.'  from  5  m.;  Bittbr  (PI.  p;  C,  3),  Gterns- 
bacher-Str.  5;  I^riedrighsbad,  Gernsbacher-Str.  41 ;  Krone,  Lange-Str.  10; 
Erbqrossherzog  (hotel  garni),  Lichtenthaler-Str.  o2,  with  brewery;  Gol- 
DENE8  Kredz,  Lichtenthalcr-Str. ,  well  spoken  of;  Stadt  Strassburo 
(PI.  t;  C,3),  Sophien-Str.  16;  Stadt  Paris,  opposite  the  last,  'pens.' dm., 
well  spoken  of;  Bheinisguer  Hop,  Lichtenthaler-Str.  5;  Boss,  Afarkt-Platz 
13;  Stadt  Nanzig,  Sophien-Str.  20 ;  Zdm  Geist,  Gernsbacher-Str.  80,  with 
brewery ;  '•Bar,  at  Lichtenthal  (p.  337),  and  a  number  of  others.  There  are 
also  numerooB  H6teU  Garni*  and  ViUa: 

Cafe-Reatauranta.  " Convenatioruhaus ^  high  charges;  " Mangin  (also 
'pension'),  Louisen-Str.  20,  D.  4-5m.;  Stephanien-Bad  (see  above);  "Petert- 
hwger  Hof  (see  above) ;  *Ooldenes  Kreuz  (see  above) ;  '^Krausbeck,  Kreuz- 
Str.  8,  in  the  'Old  German'  style,  good  wine ;  Drei  K&nige  (see  above) ; 
Ooldener  SCern  (see  above).  —  Beer.  Hauffy  £isenbahn-8tr.  11,  near  the 
station ;  at  the  Oeist  and  Stadt  Sirasshurg  (see  above) ;  ""Zur  Post^  Lichten- 
thaler-Str. 4,  in  the  Leopolds-Platz,  in  the  'Old  German'  style,  D.  IV2  m.; 
Blettevy  Lichtenthaler-Str.  35;  several  restaurants  in  the  Lichtenthaler 
Allee,  especially  near  Lichtenthal;  also  at  the  SchUtzenhauSy  to  the  N.  of 
the  station,   beyond  the  bridge.    —   Dinner  (IV2-2  m.)  after  12  o'clock,  at 


oft: 

Tgagf 

■Ml'r 

,1a 

wia 

0  tk 

pen:-.. 

adei- 

2,£ 

IdinJ 

mW' 

oni 

tJiJ 

'£>■- 


.  •  A  • 


c-*( 


fkiiui:h2 


B,  'SiiSiAihaRe  £.%. 


Cabs. 


BADEN. 


46,  RouU.     333 


various  eating-houses  in  the  Gernsbacher-8tr.  and  the  streets  running  of 
the  Lichtenthaler-Str. 

Gabs  C^Packdroschken'  at  the  rail,  station,  see  p.  £ 
a.  By  Time. 

For  V4  hour 

For  '/g  hour 


For  */i  hour 

For  1  hour 

To  Lichtenthal 

Each  additional  V*  bour  40-50  pf. 

In  summer  after  9  p.m.,  and  in  winter  after  8  p.m. :  per  drive  (V«  hr.), 
14  pers.,  Im.  40  pf.,  each  additional  1/4  hr.  60  pf.  j  each  large  box  40  pf. 


1-2  pers. 

3-4  1 

pers. 

m.  1  pf. 

m. 

p«. 



90 

1 

BO 

1 

40 

2 



2 

3 



3 

__ 

4 



1 

40 

2 

— 

b.  Dkivbs  at  Fixed  Ghabgks  (1-4  persons). 


0 
It 

MC9 


®  «  s  . 

5a 


I! 

^1" 


To  the  Alte  Schloss 

and  back 

Fremersberg  and  Jagdhaus  and  back 

The  Seelach  or  Gaisbach  and  back 

The  Fremcrsberger  Thurm  and  back 

To  the  Alte  Schloss  and  back 

The  Favorite  and  back 

The  Ebersteinburg  and  back 

and  back  by  the  Alte  Schloss 

Gernsbach  and  back 

Ebersteinschloss  and  back 

and  back  by  Gernsbach  .... 

The  Tburg  and  back 

The  Fremersberger  Thurm  by  the  Fremersberger 

Convent,  and  back  by  the  Jagdhaus     .... 

To  the  Alte  Schloss,  Ebersteinburg,  Teufelskanzel, 

Mercurius-Thurm,  and  Miillenbild,  or  in  reverse 

{direction  (not  more  than  10  hrs.) 
Same,  including  Gernsbach  or  Schloss  Eberstein  . 
Same,  including  Gernsbach  and  Schloss  Eberstein  . 


50 
50 


50 


Horses  (Berthold-Str.  6):  1-2  hrs.  6  m. 

Visitors'  Tax.  Since  the  abolition  of  the  gaming-tables  the  following 
tariff  for  admission  to  the  Conversationshaus  and  grounds  (during  the  sea- 
son) has  been  fixed  (tickets  at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds) :  for  one  day, 
1  pers.  60  pf.,  for  a  fortnight  6  m.;  for  one  month,  1  pers.  8  m.,  2  pers. 
14  m.,  8  pers.  18m..  each  additional  person  4  m.  more;  for  one  year, 
1  pers.  20,  2  pers.  90,  3  pers.  36  m.,  and  so  on.  —  All  the  tickets  entitle 
holders  to  use  the  reading*room  and  attend  the  ordinary  concerts,  and  the 
monthly  and  yearly  tickets  (procured  at  the  Conversationshaus)  give  ad- 
mission to  the  'reunions',  symphony-concerts,  and  'matinees  musicales".  — 
Balls  every  Saturday  during  the  season.  Good  Concerts  frequently.  — 
Music  in  front  of,  or  in  the  Conversationshaus,  7-8  a.m.,  34  and  8-10  p.m. 

Theatre.  Performances  on  Wednesdays  (actors  from  the  Carlsruhe 
theatre);  during  the  season  twice  weekly. 

Baces  at  Jffetheim  (near  Cos,  p.  331),  at  the  end  of  August  and  at  the 
beginning  of  September  and  of  October. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Ofiloe  (PI.  11)  in  the  Leopolds-Plats. 

English  Church  CAll  SainW)^  Berthold-Str.,  close  to  the  Grand  Hotel 
Bellevue*,  services  at  8.90  a.m.,  11  a.m.,  and  7.30  p.m.  Chaplain,  Rev. 
Archibald  S.   White,  Maria- Victoria-Str.  11. 

Baden  has  the  reputation  of  being  an  expensive  watering-place,  and 
probably  is  so  to  those  who  live  at  the  flrst-cIass  hotels,  attend  all  the 
numerous  concerts,  and  liberally  patronise  the  shops  and  bazaars :  but  many 
of  the  advantages  of  the  place  may  be  enjoyed  without  very  serious  inroad 
on  the  finances.  A  respectable  private  lodging  may  be  procured  for  10-20  m. 
a  week ,  the  farther  from  the  Cursaal ,  the  cheaper  {e.g,  at  one  of  the 


334    Route  46.  BAD£N.  Pfarrkirche. 

numerous  vUlas  near  the  nilway-siatioiL,  such  m  the  Villa  Haug,  or  at  the 
village  of  Lichtenthal,  iVs  M.  difltant).  The  lodgings  in  the  Sophien-Strasse 
are  pleasant  and  comfortahle,  but  somewhat  expensive.  Breakfast  in  the 
lodf  ing-houses  costs  40-00  pf. ;  dinner  at  one  of  the  houses  mentioned  at 
p.  332,  lVr2m.;  baths  40  pf.  to  2  m.  BOpf.  and  upwards.  —  The  thermal 
water  may  be  drunk  at  the  Trinkhalle  and  Friedrichsbad  free  of  charge ; 
other  kinds  of  mineral  water  are  supplied  at  fixed  rates.  Whey  or  goats^- 
milk,  20  pf.  per  glass. 

Baden  (600  ft.),  or  Baden-Baden  (to  distinguish  it  from  the 
Baden  near  Vienna  and  that  in  Switzerland),  lies  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Black  Forest,  among  picturesque,  well- wooded  hills,  in  the 
delightful  valley  of  the  Oo8,  or  Oel-Bach,  and  vies  with  Heidel- 
herg  and  Freihurg  in  the  heauty  of  its  situation.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  watering-places  in  Europe,  and  is  rivalled  in  Ger- 
many by  Wiesbaden  only.  The  number  of  visitors  has  risen  from 
2460  in  1815  to  more  than  40,000  annually.  The  climate  is  mild 
and  salubrious.  The  efficacy  of  the  waters  was  known  to  the  Ro- 
mans, who  called  it  Civita4  Aurelia  Aquensia,  For  six  centuries 
Baden  was  the  seat  of  the  Margraves  of  Baden,  of  whom  Hermann  IV. 
(d.  1190  in  the  Crusades)  first  resided  in  the  old  castle.  The  new 
castle,  above  the  town,  was  erected  by  the  Margrave  Christopher 
(d.  1527),  but  both  town  and  castle  suffered  so  much  during  the 
Thirty  Years'  War  and  the  war  of  the  Palatinate  (1689)  that  the 
Margraves  soon  after  transferred  their  residence  to  Rastatt.  The 
modern  reputation  of  Baden  as  a  sanatorium  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  this  century.  The  first  'Conservationshaus'  was  opened  in  1808. 
and  the  gaming-table,  which  was  set  up  immediately  afterwards, 
became  a  favourite  resort  of  European  wealth  and  fashion.  The  sup- 
pression of  public  gambling  in  1872,  however,  has  given  Baden 
more  of  the  character  of  a  health-resort,  though  it  is  still  annually 
visited  by  thousands  of  pleasure-seekers.  The  season  lasts  from 
1st  May  to  31st  October,  and  is  at  Its  height  from  the  end  of  August 
to  the  middle  of  October.  Even  In  winter  a  considerable  number  of 
strangers  now  reside  here.  The  numerous  walks  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  the  town  seem  admirably  adapted  for  the  devel- 
opment of  Prof.  Oertels  'Terrain'-cure  for  diseases  of  the  heart  and 
lungs,  which  has  recently  been  introduced. 

The  town  (12,782  inhab. ,  chiefly  Roman  Catholic)  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oosbach,  and  extends  up  the  slope  of  a 
spur  of  the  Battert,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  by  the  grand- 
ducal  ch&teau.    Farther  to  the  S.  rises  the  — 

FfiurrkiTche,  or  Stiftskirche  (PI.  5 ;  0,  3 ;  always  open  in  the 
morning),  erected  in  the  7th  cent.,  raised  to  the  dignity  of  an 
abbey-church  in  1453,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1689,  repaired  in  1753, 
and  restored  in  the  original  style  in  1866.  The  choir  contains 
^Monuments  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Margraves  of  Baden,  from  Bern- 
hard  I.  (d.  1431)  downwards,  and  some  modern  stained  glass.  The 
church  lies  at  a  height  of  600  ft.  above  the  sea. 

Adjacent  to  the  church,  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Schlossberg,  are 


Neue  8ehl088.  BADEN.  46.  Route,     335 

ike  Hot  Springs,  the  ohief  of  which  have  been  united  In  the  same 
channel.  They  yield  upwards  of  100  gallons  per  minute,  and  vary 
from  113"  to  158®  Fahr.  in  temperature.  The  efficacy  of  the  water 
is  chiefly  due  to  its  high  natural  temperature,  the  solid  ingredients, 
chiefly  chloride  of  sodium,  amounting  only  to  three  per  cent.  The 
latest  analysis  has  detected  slight  traces  of  arsenic. 

The  principal  bath-house  is  the  ♦Friedrichabad  (PI.  10 ;  C  3),  an 
Imposing  Renaissance  edifice  designed  by  Demfeld,  and  erected  in 
1869-77,  rising  in  terraces  from  the  Stein- Strasse,  close  to  the 
springs.  The  exterior  is  executed  in  red  and  white  sandstone,  and 
embellished  with  statues,  busts,  and  medallions.  In  the  completeness 
and  elegance  of  its  internal  arrangements  the  establishment  is  per- 
haps unriyalled  by  any  other  of  the  kind. 

The  first  floor  contains  hot  and  cold  plunge-baths  (morning  1  m.,  after- 
noon 75  pf.),  sita-baths  (private  bath,  morn.  21/2,  aft.  2  m.  j  general  bath, 
1  m.  20  pf.  and  1  m.)i  electric  baths  (3  m.),  an  inhaling  room  (60  pf.),  etc. 
On  this  floor  is  the  division  set  apart  for  carative  gymnastics  and  ^mas- 
sage", the  apparatus  for  which  was  purchased  at  Stockholm  in  1884  (sub- 
scription for  1  month  30,  2  months  40,  3  months  45  mX  —  On  the  second 
floor  are  baths  for  bathing  in  company,  vapour  and  douche  baths  (morn. 
1  m.  80,  aft.  1  m.  30  pf.),  Turkish  baths,  and  large  swimming-baths  with 
cold  and  warm  water.  On  the  third  floor  are  the  Fiirstenbader,  or  baths 
of  the  most  luxurious  description  (10  m.),  and  also  vapour  baths  (1-2  m.). 
—  One  half  of  each  floor  is  assigned  to  ladies,  the  other  to  gentlemen. 
The  second  floor  contains  a  promenading-room.  —  Admission  to  view  the 
interior,  1-6  p.m.,  1  m. 

Above  the  Friedrichsbad  is  the  Alte  Dampfbad^  built  in  1846. 
During  its  construction  extensive  remains  of  Roman  Baths  were 
discovered,  but  they  have  since  been  built  over.  —  Other  springs 
(Fettqttelle,  ButtenquelUj  MurguelU)  are  conducted  by  pipes  to  the 
hotels  and  the  public  hot-wells  in  the  town. 

The  Kene  SchloM  (PI.  0,  2),  on  the  hill  to  the  N.  of  the  town, 
founded  in  1479,  enlarged  in  1530  and  1570-80,  seriously  damaged 
in  1689,  and  since  partly  restored,  was  fitted  up  as  a  summer-resi- 
dence for  the  Grand  Duke  in  1842.  The  W.  gateway,  with  its  Gothic 
vaulting ,  leads  into  the  court  (bell  to  the  left  for  the  castellan, 
1-1 72  m.),  on  the  £.  side  of  which  is  the  handsome  Renaissance 
chateau.  It  contains  a  number  of  handsome  saloons  and  the  apart- 
ments of  the  grand-duke,  adorned  with  several  good  modem  pictures, 
carving,  family-portraits,  etc.  The  curious  subterranean  vaults  with 
stone  and  Iron  doors  were  probably  once  used  as  dungeons. 

The  beautiful  *Plea8Uile  GBODrNDB  extending  along  the  left 
back  of  the  Oos,  which  flows  for  a  long  distance  through  an  artificial 
channel,  and  along  the  W.  slopes  of  the  valley,  form  the  chief  resort 
of  visitors.  The  busiest  points  are  the  Trinkhalle  and  the  Con- 
versationshaus,  and  the  main  stream  of  traffic  follows  the  Llchten- 
thaler  AUee  towards  the  S.  The  grounds  are  enclosed  by  a  fence, 
and  during  the  season  holders  of  the  tickets  mentioned  at  p.  333 
are  alone  admitted. 

The*ConveriatioiLiliaiui  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  designed  by  Weinhrenner^ 


336    Route  46.  BADEN.  Theatre. 

erected  in  18^,  and  considerably  enlarged  in  1854,  is  125  yds.  in 
length  and  is  preceded  in  the  centre  by  a  portico  of  8  columns. 

The  ^Intekiob  contains  the  ball,  concert,  reading,  and  other  rooms, 
which  were  gorgeously  0tted  up  by  H.  Benazet,  the  late  lessee  of  the 
gaming-tables,  from  designs  by  the  best  Parisian  masters.  Immediately 
within  the  colonnade  is  the  Qbkat  Saloon,  64  yds.  long  and  17  yds. 
wide,  where  the  band  plays  in  the  evening  in  unfavourable  weather.  To 
the  left  are  the  so-called  Landsoapb  Saloon  ,  the  Italian  Saloon  ,  and 
the  Flower  Saloon;  to  the  right  the  Renaissance  Saloon,  containing 
the  well-supplied  Reading  Room.  The  so-called  'New  Saloons,  opened 
in  1864 ,  and  used  for  concerts  and  other  purposes ,  fitted  up  in  the  Re- 
naissance style  of  Louis  XIII.  and  Louis  XIV. ,  are  still  more  sumptuous 
than  the  old  (shown  for  a  fee).  —  Marx^$  Book  Shop^  in  the  N.  wing  of 
the  building ,  also  contains  a  well-stocked  reading-room.  The  S.  wing 
contains  the  restaurant  (p.  332). 

The  band  which  plays  in  front  of  the  GonYersationshans  (p.  333) 
always  attracts  a  large  assemblage  of  the  fashionable  world ,  and  on 
fine  Sunday  afternoons  the  grounds  are  crowded  with  visitors  from 
Strassbnrg,  Carlsruhe,  and  other  neighbouring  places.  The  small 
avenue  leading  to  the  Leopoldsbriicke ,  to  the  E.  of  the  Conver- 
sationshaus,  contains  the  Bazaar j  consisting  of  two  rows  of  stalls  of 
various  wares. 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.  is  the  Trinkhalle  (PI.  B,  3),  designed  by 
Hiibsch^  and  erected  in  1839-42,  96  yds.  in  length,  with  a  colonnade 
of  16  Corinthian  columns  in  front.  It  is  most  frequented  from  7  to 
8  in  the  morning,  when  the  band  plays  and  the  waters  are  drunk. 
The  relief  in  the  tympanum,  \}y  Reich,  represents  the  nymph  of  the 
springs  administering  health  to  sufferers  of  every  kind.  The  some- 
what faded  frescoes  in  the  arcades,  by  Ootzenberger,  represent  four- 
teen legends  of  the  Black  Forest.  —  The  grounds  in  front  of  the 
Trinkhalle  are  adorned  with  a  marble  Bust  of  Emperor  William,  by 
Kopf  of  Rome. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Promenade  is  the  Theatre  (PI.  13 ;  B,  4), 
built  })yDerchy  in  1861,  and  richly  fitted  up  from  designs  by  Couteau. 
Betv^een  the  theatre  and  the  Conversationshaus  is  Messmer's  H6tel 
Garni  (PL  9) ,  where  the  Emperor  and  Empress  lodge  when  at  Ba- 
den. —  In  the  Werder-Strasse ,  behind  the  Conversationshaus,  Is 
the  studio  of  Professor  Kopf,  the  sculptor,  to  which  visitors  are  ad- 
mitted on  Thurs.  3-5  p.m.  from  July  to  October.  — ■  The  Kunst- 
halU  (PI.  8),  at  the  back  of  the  theatre ,  contains  an  exhibition  of 
pictures  (adm.  50  pf.).  Near  it  is  the  Intematior\,al  Club.  In  the 
Kronprinzen-Strasse,  farther  up  the  hill,  is  the  KunsUerhaus,  vrith 
the  studios  of  several  artists. 

The  Leopoldsbriicke  leads  to  the  Lbopolds-PI/ATZ  ,  which  is 
embellished  with  a  bronze  Statue  of  Gfrand  Duke  Leopold  (PI.  3 ; 
d.  1852),  erected  by  the  'grateful  town  of  Baden'  in  1861.  The 
Sophibn-Stbassb,  to  the  E.  of  this  Platz,  is  bordered  with  trees, 
and  forms  another  promenade.  —  In  the  new  S.  quarter  of  the  town 
are  the  Protestant  Church  (PI.  6),  designed  by  Eisenlohr,  and  the 
English  Clmrch  (PI.  7).     The  latter  contains  several  handsome 


LiehUnthal.  BADEN.  46.  Route.    337 

stained-glass  windows,  a  fine  candelabrum  presented  by  the  Em- 
press of  Germany ,  and  a  lectern  given  by  the  Grand  Buchess  of 
Baden.  Near  the  municipal  hospital  in  the  Lichtenthaler-Str.  is 
the  Russian  Church. 

On  the  Miohaelsberg  rises  the  Greek  Chnroh  (PI.  A,  3),  erected 
in  1863-66  (from  designs  by  KUnze  of  Munich)  as  a  tomb  for  the 
Roumanian  prince  Michael  Stourdza ,  who  died  at  Baden  in  1863, 
in  his  17th  year.  The  roof  and  dome  are  gilded;  the  interior  is 
sumptuously  decorated  with  gold,  marble,  and  painting.  Key  at  the 
house  No.  2;  fee  50  pf.  —  A  little  to  the  S.  is  the  Chdteau  of 
Prince  Solms-Braunfels  ^  built  by  Oppler  in  a  mediaeval  style 
(the  ♦Interior  is  shewn  by  the  castellan).  Farther  up  is  the  Friesen- 
berg,  the  pretty  forest-paths  on  which  afford  beautiful  views ;  it  is 
reached  by  following  the  prolongation  of  the  Werder-Str. ,  passing 
the  Villa  Hohenstein. 

The  Old  Cemetery  J  now  transformed  into  a  promenade,  contains 
a  crucifix  by  Niclaus  Lerch  of  Leyen  (1467),  and  a  late-Gothic  re- 
presentation of  the  Passion,  ornamented  with  stone  carvings.  — The 
New  Cemetery  is  on  the  Annaberg  (p.  340). 

Enyisons  of  Badbn. 

For  the  purposes  of  the  ^Terrain*-cure  mentioned  at  p.  334,  the  chief 
walks  in  the  neighbonrhood  of  Baden  are  classified  by  means  of  coloured 
marks  on  the  trees,  yellow  signifying  a  level  path,  red  an  easy  ascent, 
red  and  yellow  a  steep  ascent.  The  height  above  the  Gonservationshans 
is  given  (in  metres)  at  various  points  in  red  figures  on  a  white  ground. 

The  most  attractive  walk  in  the  vicinity  of  Baden  is  the  *Lich- 
tenthaler  Allee  (PI.  B,  4,  5,  6),  ascending  the  left  bank  of  the 
Cos,  and  much  frequented  in  the  afternoon.  The  avenue  consists 
of  fine  old  oaks,  limes,  and  maples,  bordered  with  flower-beds  and 
shrubberies,  and  embellished  with  fountains.  On  both  sides  of  the 
brook  a  number  of  handsome  villas  have  sprung  up,  and  their  num- 
ber is  steadily  increasing.  About  1/4  M.  from  the  theatre,  beside 
the  house  No.  6,  the  roads  to  the  Fremersberg  and  the  Ybnrg  (p.  343) 
diverge  to  the  right;  and  about  1/2  M.  farther  on  the  road  toGunzen- 
bach  also  runs  off  to  the  right.  A  little  farther,  on  the  right,  is  the 
tree  which  was  struck  by  the  bullet  flred  at  King  (now  Emperor) 
William  by  Oscar  Becker  on  14th  July,  1861. 

Following  the  above  mentioned  Fremersberg  road  and  then  turning 
to  the  left  we  may  reach  the  Sauersberff  (930  ft. ;  pleasant  view  from  the 
Birkenkopf)  in  1/2  br.,  and  the  prettily -situated  Whey -cure  Eetablishment 
(refreshments),  Vt  M.  farther  on.  —  The  Ounxenbachthal  is  interesting  to 
mineralogists.  The  *Leopoldshdhe,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  commands 
a  fine  view.  —  A  path  leads  from  the  Allee  to  the  top  of  the  Caedlienberg 
(p.  838). 

About  11/2  M.  from  the  Conversationshaus  we  reach  — 

Lichtenthal.  —  *Bas,  with  restaurant  and  pleasant  garden,  B.  about 
16  m.  per  week,  D.  2  m.*,  *Ludwig8bad,  with  a  chalybeate  spring,  D.  im. 
80 pf.;  *L6wE,  h.  IV2,  *pens.'  from  4m.;  Kssuz,  unpretending.  —  Several 
Breweries  at  the  entrance  to  the  village.  —  Omnibus  from  Baden,  starting 
from  the  post-house,  to  Lichtenthal  8  times  daily,  50  pf. 

Babdbkbb's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  22 


338    BcvitiB.  BADBN.  OwoUau. 

At  Lichtenihal  (610  ft.),  formerly  called  VnUr-Btuem^  a  Tillage 
with  3620  inhab.,  is  situated  the  Nunns&t  of  Lichtent!bai<  (to 
the  right,  beyond  the  bridge),  which  was  founded  in  1245  by  Irmen- 
gard,  grand-daughter  of  Henry  the  Lion  and  widow  of  Hermann  IV. 
of  Baden ,  and  was  taken  by  the  Margraves  of  Baden  under  their 
special  protection.  The  convent  has  escaped  the  devastations  of 
war  and  the  ravages  of  time ,  and  is  still  occupied  by  Cistercian 
nuns.  The  Churchy  which  has  no  aisles,  contains  the  *Tomb  of  the 
foundress  (d.  1260),  consisting  of  a  sarcophagus  and  a  fine  figure  of 
the  Margravine.  Adjoining  the  church  and  connected  with  it 
by  an  archway  is  the  TodUncaptllt  (mortuary  chapel),  built  in 
the  Gothic  style  in  1288,  and  restored  in  1830.  It  contains  tomb* 
stones  of  Margraves  of  Baden-Durlach ,  and  altar-pieces  by  the  old 
German  master  Hans  Baldung,  surnamed  Grien.  The  Orphan  As^ 
lum,  within  the  precincts  of  the  convent,  was  founded  by  the  wealthy 
and  benevolent  London  tailor  8tult ,  who  was  afterwards  ennobled. 
In  front  of  the  nunnery  is  a  War  Monument  for  1870-71. 

The  pine-dad  Caecilienberg  (750  ft.),  immediately  behind  the 
nunnery,  a  spur  of  the  Klosterberg  (1760  ft.),  affords  pleasant  walks 
and  charming  views.  Higher  up,  on  the  hill  between  the  valleys  of 
Beuren  and  Gerolsau,  Tiaestht  Parish  €bureh  with  its  lofty  tower. 

On  the  Beelach  (890  ft),  the  opposite  height,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Gerolsau  (ascended  from  the  nunnery  in  Vs  br.  \  road  to  the  right  of  the 
parish-church,  footpath  to  the  leftj,  stands  the  villa  of  Count  Krepto- 
vitch,  in  the  medieeval  style,  a  fine  point  of  view  (restaurant  adjacent). 

From  Lichtenthal  the  road  ascends  the  Bbubbnbb  ThaI/,  pass- 
ing several  houses  and  hamlets,  to  (I74  M.)  Ober-Benem  (692  ft.; 
♦  Waldhom ,  above  the  door  of  which  is  the  laughing  head  of  the 
late  host,  a  relief  by  the  well-known  French  sculptor  Dantart, 
d.  1869).  The  valley  now  contracts.  About  3  M.  from  the  convent 
the  road  divides,  the  main  branch,  to  the  left,  proceeding  by  Miillen- 
bach  to  Gernsbach  and  Ebersteinschloss  (see  pp.  354,  355).  To  the 
right,  on  the  branch  leading  to  Galsbach  and  Forbach  (p.  356),  is 
the  Gaisbach  Piscicnltnral  Establishment  (*Inn  and  Restaurant; 
adm.  to  breeding-ponds  30  pf.),  situated  amid  pleasant  grounds  in 
a  picturesque  nook  of  the  valley,  and  a  favourite  point  for  excur- 
sions from  Baden  (by  carr.  in  3/^  hr.). 

Near  Lichtenthal,  on  the  S.W.,  opens  the  Oerolsan,  a  pretty 
grassy  valley  watered  by  the  Grobbachj  and  fringed  with  wood,  where 
(IV2  M.)  the  village  of  that  name  (741  ft.;  HmcK)  is  situated.  A 
road  leads  to  the  right  from  Gerolsau  by  Matschbach  (860  ft.)  and 
Neuweier  (p.  341)  to  (6  M.)  Steinbach  (p.  341).  We  follow  the  road 
to  the  left.  Beyond  the  village  the  valley  becomes  more  secluded ; 
3/4  M.  the  *OeroUau  Waterfall  (960  ft. ;  •Restaur ant).* 

From  the  Gerolsau  Waterfall  a  pleasant  route  leads  through  wood 
to  (9  M.)  Herrenwies,  Sand  and  Plattig.  At  the  (1  M.)  bifurcation  the  road 
to  the  right  leads  direct  to  the  Plattig  (p.  342).  We  keep  to  the  left; 
Vz  ^^*  ^^^6F  the  road  again  forks,  but  the  two  branches  reunite  on  the 
Badener  Hohe  (3295  ft.;  no  view),  l'/*  hr.  farther  on.    Het-renwies  (p.  342) 


Mte  8(^1088.  BADEN.  46.  RouU,    339 

and  Sand  (p.  34S^  are  each   about  iVs  M.  farther  on-,   the  path  to  the 
latter  is  indicated  by  finger-posts. 

The  Altb  Schloss  (1  hr.),  lying  1000  ft.  above  Baden  to  the  N., 
is  reached  by  a  carriage-road  (comp.  PI.  C^  2,  D,  2,  1).  Beyond 
the  donkey-station  (donkey  to  the  castle  1  m.  40;  there  and  back 
2  m.  40  pf.),  the  bridle-path  diverges  to  the  right,  traversing 
fragrant  pine-plantations  (direction-posts  at  doubtful  points).  About 
half-way  we  reach  (on  the  left,  near  the  path)  the  SopfUenruhe 
(1046  ft.),  a  projecting  rock  with  a  pavilion ,  beyond  which  is  a 
fresh  spring. 

The  *Alte  SohlOM  Hohenbadea  (1610  ft. ;  ^Restaurant  with 
shady  terrace)  is  an  extensive  structure  situated  on  a  buttress  of 
the  Batiertj  the  walls  of  which  probably  date  in  part  from  the 
3rd  cent.,  when  the  Romans  constructed  some  fortifications  here. 
From  the  12th  cent,  until  the  construction  of  the  New  Castle  (p.  336) 
it  was  the  seat  of  the  Margraves.  The  so-called  Bittersaal  dates 
from  the  end  of  the  14th  century.  Since  its  destruction  by  the 
French  in  1689  the  castle  has  been  a  complete  ruin,  but  the  tower 
has  been  rendered  accessible  by  means  of  stairs.  The  **View  from 
the  top  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  from  Speyer  to  a  point  far 
beyond  Strassburg  (not  itself  visible) ;  in  the  foreground  lies  the 
charming  valley  of  Baden ,  with  its  bright  villas ,  its  light-green 
woods  of  beech  and  oak,  and  its  sombre  pine-forests. 

To  theS.,  on  the  summit  of  the  Ba«er«  (1854  ft.),  which  may  be 
reached  from  the  Schloss  in  ^4  hr.  (finger-post),  rise  the  precipitous 
*FelMn  (^rocks'),  a  number  of  fantastically-cleft  masses  of  porphyry. 
A  good  path  leads  through  this  chaos  of  rock ,  of  which  the  FeUen- 
hriicke,  commanding  a  magnificent  view,  is  the  finest  point.  A 
picturesque  path  leads  from  the  Schloss  along  the  foot  of  the  Felsen 
towards  theE.,  after  following  which  for  20-25  min.  we  may  ascend 
the  high-road  to  the  right  to  (1^2  M.)  Ebersteinburg  (see  below). 

The  route  from  Baden  to  (4  M.)  Ebersteinburg  is  by  the  old 
Gernsbach  road  (PL  D,  3),  ascending  the  valley  to  the  E.  between 
the  Battert  and  the  Mercurius.  On  the  saddle  of  the  hUl  (1224  ft.), 
near  which  are  two  rocks  known  as  the  Teufelakan%el  and  Sngels- 
kamely  the  Ebersteinburg  road  diverges  to  the  left.  A  little  farther 
on  is  a  finger-post,  also  on  the  left,  indicating  the  way  to  the  ro- 
mantic Wolfsaehluchtf  through  the  woods  of  which  we  may  ascend 
to  the  village  of  Ebersteinburg. 

From  the  village  of  Ebersteinburg  (1398  ft.;  Krone;  Hirsch)  we 
ascend  in  10  min.  to  the  top  of  the  isolated  eminence  which  bears 
the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  *Alt-£b6ritei]L,  or  the  Ebersteinburg 
(1598  ft. ;  Restaurant).  The  castle  stands  on  Roman  substructures, 
and  the  present  edifice  dates  from  the  10th-14th  centuries.  It  was 
once  the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Eberstein,  and  afterwards  came  into 
the  possession  of  the  Margraves  of  Baden. 

A  charming  ballad  by  Uhland  is  founded  on  an  old  legend  connected 
with  this  castle.    At  a  ball  given  by  the  emperor  (Otho  I.),  the  Count  of 

22* 


340    BofiUde.  BADEN.  Mereuriusberg. 

Ebersiein  is  sftid  to  hftve  been  informed  by  the  emperor's  dangbier  of 
her  father's  intention  to  take  possession  of  the  castle }  wherenpon  he 
hastened  home  and  defended  his  stronghold  with  such  spirit  that  the 
emperor  was  struck  with  admiration  and  gave  him  his  daughter  in  mar> 
riage.    The  tower  (fee  10  pf.)  commands  a  beantifal  view. 

The  Mereorius'berg,  the  highest  mountain  near  Baden ,  may  be 
ascended  in  1^2  ^^'  hy  one  of  seyeial  different  routes.  The  car- 
riage-road diverges  on  the  ahoYe-mentioned  saddle  of  the  hill  to 
the  right  from  the  old  Qernshach  road ,  passes  near  the  Teufels- 
kanzel,  and  leads  to  the  top  in  long  windings  in  less  than  an  hour. 
—  Pedestrians  had  hettei  start  from  the  Scheiben-Strasse  in  Baden 
(PI.  D,  3,  4),  and  take  the  route  over  the  Annaberg  (994  ft.),  a 
spur  of  the  Merouriusherg.  At  the  top  is  the  Bestrvoir  of  the  Baden 
waterworks,  near  which  is  the  KarUhof  Inn^  with  a  garden  com- 
manding a  fine  view ;  here  we  turn  to  the  left,  through  wood  (nu- 
merous flnger-posts).  Or  we  may  start  from  Lichtenthal  and  ascend 
across  the  Sckaafberg  (1063  ft.).  —  The  summit  of  the  Mereuius- 
berg,  or  Orosae  Staufen  (2205  ft.),  is  occupied  by  a  tower  which 
commands  a  very  extensive  •View  (key  at  the  adjoining  inn,  10  pf.). 
The  mountain  derives  its  name  from  a  Roman  votive  stone  found 
here,  and  now  preserved  in  a  small  niche  made  for  its  reception.  — 
The  above-mentioned  carriage-road  passes  near  the  summit  of  the 
Mereuriusberg,  skirts  the  W.  slope  of  the  Kleine  Staufehberg 
(2050  ft.),  and  at  the  Mullenbild,  above  Mullenbach,  joins  the  new 
road  to  Gernsbach  (see  below).  Pedestrians  may  reach  Gernsbach 
from  the  Mereuriusberg  in  1  hr.  via  Staufenberg  (see  below),  by 
taking  the  path  to  the  E.  at  the  bifurcation  of  the  roads  on  the 
Binsenwasen  (1696  ft. ;  flnger-post). 

Fkom  Badbn  to  Gernsbach  (p.  354)  by  the  new  road  vii.  Lich- 
tenthal and  Beuern  (p.  338),  8  M.  About  8/4  M.  from  the  Pisci- 
cultoral  Establishment,  the  hamlet  of  MiiUenbaeh  (Inn;  1056  ft.) 
is  reached,  after  which  the  road  ascends  very  circuitously  (pedestrians 
effect  a  saving  by  proceeding  straight  on  from  the  inn)  to  the  so- 
called  Mullenbild  (1263  ft.),  where  it  divides  into  two  branches, 
that  to  the  left  descending  to  Gernsbach,  and  that  to  the  right  lead- 
ing at  nearly  the  same  level  to  Schloss  Eberstein  (p.  366).  —  The 
old  road  (6  M.)  as  far  as  the  col  (1224  ft.)  between  the  Teufels- 
kanzel  and  the  Engelskanzel  is  described  on  p.  339).  Fine  view 
of  the  Murgthal  in  descending.  On  the  right,  after  about  IV4  M., 
where  the  road  again  ascends  a  little,  is  the  Neuhaus,  a  solitary  inn. 
The  road  then  descends  the  hillside  to  the  left  to  Gernsbach.  The 
following  short-cut  may  be  taken :  about  8  min.  beyond  the  Neu- 
haus  descend  by  a  steep  road  to  the  right ;  1/4  ^'*  Staufenberg ; 
V2  hr.  Oemebach,   (Comp.  the  Map,  p.  332). 

The  Fremersberg  and  the  Yburg  are  also  reached  by  two  pleasant 
excursions  from  Baden.  We  leave  the  Lichtenthaler  Allee  by  the 
Fremersberger-Str.  (p.  337),  which  diverges  to  the  right,  about  1/2  M. 
from  the  theatre.   In  little  more  than  1/2  ^'  ^^  pa^s  a  group  of 


BOHL,  i7.  Route.     341 

bouses  known  as  Thiergarten,  and  1/2  M.  farther  the  Restaurant 
sum  Korhmattfelsen,  The  road  now  forks,  the  left  branch  leading 
to  the  Korbmattfelsen  and  the  Yburg  (see  below),  and  the  right 
through  wood  to  (3  M.)  the  Fremersberg  (1730  ft. ;  ♦Inn).  The 
view  from  this  point  commands  a  wide  survey  of  the  Rhine  valley. 
We  return  by  the  (2^2  M.)  JagdhauSj  with  a  frequented  inn,  to 
(33/4  M.)  Baden. 

The  Yburg  lies  3-4  M.  from  the  above-mentioned  Restaurant  zum 
Korbmattfelsen.  Both  road  and  foot-paths  are  indicated  by  numer- 
ous finger-posts.  The  direct  road  from  Baden  diverges  from  the 
Fremersberger-Str.  almost  immediately  after  leaving  the  Lichten- 
thaler  AUee,  and  traverses  fine  pine-woods.  The  ancient  Ybnrg 
(1696  ft. ;  Inn)  was  like  the  Ebersteinburg  once  a  Roman  watch- 
tower.  Extensive  view  of  the  Rhine- valley.  From  the  Yburg  to 
Steinbach  (see  below),  41/2  M. 

47.    From  Baden  to  Freiburg  and  B&le. 

Comp.  Map$y  pp.  352^  370. 
Bailwat  to  Fbbibdbg  (66  M.)  in  iy%-\?U  hrs.  (express  fares  9  m.  80, 
6  m.  95  pf. ;  ordinary  8  m.  70,  6  m.  85,  3  m.  70  pf.)^  to  Bale  (105  M.)  in 
^^/fiy*  hrs.  (express  fares  16  m.  30,  10m.  95pf.5   ordinary  13  m.  85,  9  m. 
20,  5  m.  86  pf.).    Finest  views  to  the  left. 

Baden,  see  p.  332.  —  21/2  M.  Oos,  see  p.  331.  —  To  the  left  rise 
the  Black  Forest  Mts. ;  in  the  foreground  stands  the  gray  tower  of 
the  Yhurg  (see  above).  47-2  M.  Sinzheim.  Near  (61/4  M.)  Steinbach 
(*8tem)j  on  a  barren  hill  to  the  left,  is  a  red  sandstone  monument 
to  Erwin,  the  architect  of  Strassburg  cathedral,  supposed  to  have 
been  a  native  of  Steinbach  (d.  at  Strassburg,  1318).  A  road  leads 
hence  to  the  E.  to  (6  M.)  the  Yburg  (see  above).  In  the  valley  of  the 
Steinbach,  about  272  M.  from  the  station  of  that  name,  lies  the 
village  of  Neuweier  (607  ft. ;  ♦Lamm),  with  an  ancient  castle  and 
excellent  wine.  Hence  to  Baden,  via  Malschbach  (p.  338),  6  M. ; 
to  the  Yburg  41/2  M.  —  Affenthaler,  one  of  the  best  red  wines  of 
Baden,  is  produced  in  the  vicinity. 

91/2 M.  BuidfRahe;  Badiacher  Hofj  Krone;  Koch),  is  a  thriving 
place,  with  3104  inhabitants.  The  new  Gothic  church  has  a  hand- 
some pierced  spire ;  the  old  church  with  a  tower  dating  from  the 
16th  cent.,  is  now  the  Rathhaus.  On  the  hill  to  the  S.  E.  rises  the 
ruined  castle  of  Alt-Windeck  (1285  ft. ;  33/4  M.),  once  the  seat  of 
a  powerful  race  which  became  extinct  in  1692. 

About  6  M.  to  the  K.W.  of  Biihl,  and  near  the  Rhine,  lies  Schwarzach, 
with  a  late  Romanesque  church  of  the  12th  century. 

Through  the  industrious  Biihlerthal^  which  opens  here,  a  road  leads 
past  AlUchweier,  with  a  new  church,  and  the  straggling  village  oiBuhler- 
ihal  (Griiner  Baum)  to  (4  H.)  the  Wolf  Inn  (night  accommodation  bad). 
A  diligence  plies  from  Biihl  thrice  daily  in  m)  min.  The  road  forks 
immediately  beyond  the  inn,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Baden  via  (3^/4  M.) 
the  JScTwanenwasen  and  the  (7V2  M.  )Gerolsau  Water/all  (p.  338),  or,  if  the 
road  to  the  right  from  the  Schwanenwasen  be  taken,   to  (3  M.  more)  the 


342    Route  47.  ACHBRN.  From  Baden 

Plittig  (see  below)  (  the  right  bnmeb  leading  vi&  (6>/4  M.)  WUd^nfOtm  to 
the  (IV2  K-)  Sand  (see  below).  We  follow  the  Utter,  and  beyond  C/4  M.) 
Sehindelpeier^  take  the  footpath  to  the  left,  which  leads  past  the  (272  M.) 
Palken/elun  to  the  (1  H.)  Plattig,  or  (2  M.)  Sand.  The  nnns  on  the  PUttiy 
(2fi46  ft. ;  ^pens.'  5-6  xn.)  and  on  the  Band  (2716  ft.),  which  are  connected, 
by  a  picturesque  path  (1  M.)  through  the  woods,  are  favourite  summer 
resorts.  About  iVa  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  latter  lies  Herrenwies  (2457  ft.  5 
^Averitahn,  ^pens."  i-iVs  m.),  on  an  irregular  plateau  surrounded  by  moun^ 
tains.  —  From  these  three  points  paths,  which  unite  on  the  Badener 
mhe,  lead  to  aVa  M.)  the  Gerolsauer  Waterfall  and  (5V2  M.  farther)  to 
Baden ;  comp.  p.  338.  —  Bj  the  ffundseck,  with  guide  to  the  Homisgrinde 
and  the  Hummelsee  (p.  368),  9  M.  —  From  Herrenwies  to  FtMrbach  (p.  355) 
9  M.  *,  a  lonely  woodland  path,  but  hardly  to  be  mistaken. 

IIV4M.  Ottersweier  (Sonne;  Adler),  The  Hub,  formerly  a 
popular  mineral  bath,  now  a  poor-bouse,  lies  1^2  ^*  ^  ^^^  ^* 

I4V2  ^*  Aohem.  —  Hotels.  Eailwat  Hotbl  and  Restaubant,  at 
the  station.  In  the  town,  about  ^/iV..  from  the  station:  *Po8T;  Aoler, 
well  spoken  of;  *6onnb,  unpretending;  beer  at  the  Engel  and  RdssU  (also 
confectioner's,  with  accommodation  for  single  travellers). 

Carriages  and  omnibus  at  the  station  and  hotels  according  to  tariff: 
to  Erlenbad  3  m. ;  to  Ottenhofen  7  m.;  to  AUerheiligen  16  m. ;  to  the  Bri- 
gittenschloss,  12  m. 

Batht  In  the  Acher,  20  pf.,  tickets  at  the  hotels. 

Achem  (480  ft.),  a  thriving  little  town,  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kappeler  Thai.  The  market-place  is  adorned  with  a  monnment  to 
the  Grand  Duke  Leopold  (d.  1852).  The  large  Lunatic  Asylum  of 
Illenau  (near  Achem)  has  accommodation  for  400  patients.  Hence 
through  the  Kappeler  Thai  to  AUerheiligen^  see  p.  359 ;  diligence 
to  (7  M.)  Ottenhofen  once  daily. 

At  Sa^aeh^  IVt  H.  to  the  X.  of  Achern,  the  French  Marshal  Turenne 
fell  in  1675  during  an  engagement  with  the  Imperial  General  Hontecuccoli. 
The  spot  is  marked  by  an  obelisk  in  grey  granite,  erected  by  the  French 
government  in  1829  on  tbe  site  of  the  old  monument. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  Achern  lies  Erlenbad  CFuncVs  Inn),  a  small 
watering-place  with  thermal  saline  springs. 

Pleasant  walk  (1  hr.)  past  tbe  Erlenbad  to  the  ruins  of  Neuwmdeck. 
or  Laufer  Schlo$s^  perched  on  a  precipitous  rock  above  the  village  of  Lauf. 
From  Lauf  by  NeuiHndeck  or  Olaahiitte  to  the  top  of  the  Homisgrinde  (p.  358), 
3-3V2  hrs.  —  The  Brigittenschloss  (or  Hohenroder  Schloss  ;  2500  ft.),  6  M. 
from  Achem,  is  insignificant  as  a  ruin,  but  commands  a  noble  prospect. 
Halfway  the  road  passes  through  Sasbachtoalden  (Badischer  Hof ;  *£ebstock)j 
a  beautifully-situated  village,  above  which  is  the  OaishGhle. 

19  M.  22crk5fcen  (Adler),  with  2200  inhab.,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Renchthal.  A  monument  was  erected  in  1879  to  H.  J.  von  Grim- 
melshausen,  the  author  of  ^Simplicissimus',  who  died  here  in  1676. 
—  22  M.  Appenweier  (Railway  Hotel;  Krone;  Adler),  a  village 
with  1400  inhabitants.  The  railways  to  Strassburg  and  to  Oppenau 
(see  p.  361)  diverge  here  from  the  main  line  (change  carriages). 

From  Appenweiee  to  Eehl  and  Strassburg,  16  M.,  railway  in  '/<  hr. 
The  line  traverses  a  district  rendered  marshy  by  the  inundations  of  the 
Kinzig,  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  at  Kehl.    SVxM.  Kork. 

9  M.  Kehl  (462  ft.;  Post,  or  Weisses  Lamm;  Salmen;  Blum€;  at  all 
these  R.  11/2  m. ;  Fingado,  beer-garden,  at  the  station),  a  small  town  with 
manufactures  of  tobacco  and  paper-hangings,  was  erected  by  the  French 
as  a  tSte-de-pont  of  Strassburg  in  1688,  and  has  often  been  besieged.  Dur- 
ing the  siege  of  Strassburg  in  1870  the  town  sustained  serious  damage. 
Excellent  baths  on  both  sides  of  the  Rhine.  —  Close  to  the  bridge,  on 
the  left  bank,  is  the  open-air  pleasure-resort  *Rheinlutt  (p.28S).  Pop.  2559. 


to  Bdle.  OFFENBURG.  47.  Route,     343 

At  Eehl  the  jnnction-liiie  between  the  Baden  and  the  Alsace  railways 
crosses  the  Bhine  by  an  iron  bridge ,  immediately  below  the  bridge-of- 
boats.  The  train  stops  at  a  station  near  the  S.E.  gate  (Meteger  Thor)  of 
Strassbnrg,  describes  a  wide  circuit  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  and  enters  the 
large  station  of  (16  M.)  8tra»9burg^  see  p.  279. 

From  Appenweier  to  OppenaUy  see  p.  360. 

The  line  now  runs  parallel  with  the  mountains  of  the  Black 
Forest.  In  the  distance  to  the  left  rises  the  castle  of  Staufenberg 
(belonging  to  Prince  Wilhelm  of  Baden),  founded  in  the  11th  cent, 
by  Otho  of  Hohenstaufen,  Bishop  of  Strassburg,  and  still  in  good 
preservation.  It  commands  a  superb  view^  and  may  be  reached  from 
Windachldgj  the  next  station,  via  Durbach  (Linde,  Ritter),  in 
21/2  trs. 

27  M.  Offenbvrg.  —  Hotels.  Railway  Hotei.,  opposite  the  station, 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  2  m.,  B.  70  pf,  well  spoken  of^  •Foetuna,  B.  &  A.  2V2  m., 
3/4  M.  from  the  station ;  Schwabzeb  Adleb  or  Post.  -^  Rheinischeb  Hop, 
near  the  church;  Sonne;  Ocbse,  with  a  caf^,  not  far  from  the  station. 
—  *Railwa9  Restaurant. 

0/fenburg  (438  ft.),  a  small  town  on  the  Kinzig,  with  7754  in- 
hab.j  contains  a  statue  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  Hhe  introducer  of  the 
potato  into  £arope,  1586,*  and  a  modern  Gothic  Protestant  Church 
in  red  sandstone  with  an  open-work  tower.  It  was  once  an  imperial 
town,  and  down  to  the  Peace  of  Pressburg  the  capital  of  the  district 
of  QrtenaUy  or  Mordnau.  The  comfortable  appearance  of  the  town 
with  its  numerous  industries  and  well  laid-out  promenades  bears 
witness  to  its  prosperity. 

From  Offenburg  to  ffausach^  Tribevg^  and  Constance  ^  see  p.  362. 

The  train  crosses  the  Kinzig,  On  a  hill  to  the  left  rises  Schloss 
Of (enfterp  (p.  363).  32V2M.  Nieder-Schopfheim,  35  M.  Friesenheim] 
then  (38  M.)  Dinglingeny  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  (7  min.)  to 
Lahr  (*8onne;  Pflug ;  Krone),  one  of  the  most  prosperous  industrial 
towns  in  the  duchy,  with  9936  inhab.,  in  the  Schutterthal,  2^2  M. 
from  the  main  line.  It  contains  a  venerable  Abbey  Church,  a  modern 
Roman  Catholic  Church,  an  old  Rathhaus,  and  a  War  Monument. 
In  one  of  the  suburbs  is  the  Villa  Jamm^  bequeathed  by  the  former 
owner  to  the  town  and  placed  by  the  latter  in  1877  at  the  disposal 
of  Prince  Bismarck.   To  Biberach,  9  M.,  see  p.  363. 

The  cemetery  of  Meissenheim,  V/t  M.  to  the  N.  W.  of  Dinglingen,  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  Frederica  Brion  of  Sesenheim  (p.  275),  Goethe's  early 
love  (d.  1813).    Her  resting-place  is  indicated  by  a  new  monument. 

41  M.  Kipperiheim  (Anker),  a  market-town ,  lying  1/2  M.  from 
the  station,  was  the  birthplace  of  Stulz,  the  rich  tailor  (p.  338), 
and  possesses  a  monument  to  him.  To  the  right  in  the  distance  rise 
the  Vosges.  The  castle  of  Mahlherg ,  to  the  left  above  the  small 
town  of  that  name  (Hotel  Prinz),  was  once  the  seat  of  the  old  Baden 
government;  in  the  middle  ages  it  belonged  to  the  Hohenstaufen. 
The  town  was  founded  by  Conrad  III.  in  the  12th  century. 

Near  (44  M.)  Orschweier  (Krone)  lies  Ettenheim  (Pflug),  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Munsterthal,  with  a  conspicuous  church. 

A  melancholy  interest  attaches  to  this  village  as  the  spot  where  the 


344    Route  47.  FREIBURO.  FromBadm 

Due  d^Enghien  wM  arrested  by  order  of  Napoleon  on  the  night  of  i4th 
March,  180ii  to  be  shot  at  Vincennea  six  days  later. 

Farther  up  the  valley  lies  (IVa  M.)  St.  Landolin^  a  small,  pleasantly- 
situated  watering-place. 

46  M.  Ringiheim;  il%  M.  Herholth^m,  Near  (49V^  M.)  Ken- 
fUngen  the  line  crosses  the  El%  twice.  Above  Hecklingen  are  the 
ruins  of  Lichtentgg^  once  a  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Tubingen. 

At  (52V2  M.)  Biegel  (Zum  Kopf)  the  Dreisam  unites  with  the 
Elz.  The  entire  plain  here  was  formerly  a  marsh,  but  is  now  drained 
by  the  Leopolds-Canal.  Riegel  lies  at  the  N.E.  base  of  the  Kaiser- 
stuklj  a  basaltic  hill-district  about  42  sq.  M.  in  area,  and  entirely 
planted  with  the  vine,  which  rises  from  the  plain  in  upwards  of 
forty  peaks  between  the  Dreisam  and  the  Rhine. 

Riegel  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  this  district.  By  the 
post^mnibus,  which  runs  several  times  daily,  to  Ending  en  (Pfau)  in 
lO  minutes.  Ascend  in  IV4  hr.  to  the  ^Chapel  0/  at.  Catharine  (1620ft.), 
which  commands  a  superb  view  of  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  Strass- 
burg,  of  the  Vosges,  and  of  the  Black  Forest.  Descend  to  Sehehlinffen^ 
and  proceed  to  Vogtsburg,  where  the  high-road  traversing  the  district  from 
E.  to  W.  is  reached.  Ascend  this  road  to  the  left  (E.)  to  the  top  of  the 
hill,  where  a  finger-post  on  the  right  indicates  the  way  to  the  Ifeun  Linden 
(1833  ft.),  the  highest  point  of  the  Kaiserstuhl.  Descend  thence,  either 
towards  the  S.E.  to  (IV4  hr.)  JhHngen  (railway-station,  see  p.  350),  or 
return  to  the  high-road  and  descend  by  it  via  Oberechaffhaueen  to  (3  H.) 
Qottenheim  (see  p.  350). 

6472  M.  Kondringen,  —  57  M.  Emmendingen  (*Po»t  or  Krone; 
Adler)  has  two  modern  churches.  Beyond  it,  on  a  hill  to  the  left, 
are  (3  M.)  the  extensive,  well-preserved  ruins  of  the  Hochburg, 
dismantled  in  1689  by  order  of  Louis  XIV. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Elz.  Beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of 
the  Elz,  opening  to  the  N.E.  (left).  —  61  M.  Denzlingen;  branch- 
line  to  Waldkirch,  5  M.,  see  p.  370. 

Near  Freiburg,  on  the  left,  stands  the  watch-tower  of  the  ruined 
castle  of  Zdhringen,  once  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race,  which  became 
extinct  in  1218  by  the  death  of  Count  Berthold  V.  (p.  347).  The 
train  now  passes  a  large  prison,  on  the  left,  and  reaches  — 

66  M.  Freiburg.  —  Hotels.  Near  the  Station:  ^Zahbimgbb  Hof  (PI.  a; 
B,  3),  opposite  the  station,  R.  &  L.  from  2Vain.,  A.  70,  B.  1  m.  10  pf., 
D.  3  m.:  •H6tkl  Victokia,  Eisenbahn-Str.  (PI.  C,  2),  next  door  to  the 
Post  Office,  R.  &  A.  2  m.,  B.  90  pf.;  Pfad  (PI.  e;  6,  1),  near  the  staUon. 
In  the  Town:  *Enqkl  (PI.  c;  E,  2),  Engel-8tr.,  near  the  Miinster,  unpretend- 
ing, R.  lV8-2m.,  B.  80  pf.-,  •  Wilder  Mann  (PI.  f;  E,  4)-,  •Hotel  Geist 
(PI.  g;  B,  3),  opposite  the  west  portal  of  the  Miinster,  R.  IVsm.  —  Rhbini- 
8CHER  HoF  (PI.  ii  E,  3);  *R6m.  Kaiseb  (PI.  h;  D,  4);  •Hotel  Fobhbenbach 
(PI.  b ;  D,  4),  in  the  8.  suburb,  with  large  rooms,  R.  1  m.  70  pf.,  B.  80  pf. ; 
Maskg&afleb  Hof,  Gerberau  (PI.  D,  E,  4);  Fbbibdbokb  Hof,  with  large 
local  connection.  —  *Pen»%on  Utt,  Werder-Str.  8 ;  Pension  Thomann^  Belfort- 
Str.  14;  Pension  Bellevue.  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  on  the  road  to  Giinthers- 
thal. 

llestanraata  ft  Oafis.  *Kop/,  adjoining  the  Engel,  well  supplied  with 
newspapers,  with  old -German  drinking-room  and  garden;  *Alte  Burse, 
Berthold-Str.  5 ;  *Hechinger^  Salz-Str.  7;  Thomann^  in  the  Allee-Garten ; 
Oambrinushalle^  adorned  with  paintings  5  Simmer,  with  garden ;  RommeVs 
SchWsschen,  above  the  8chwaben-Thor  (p.  349),  with  •View.  —  Wine  at 
''ffummeVs,  Munster-Platz.  —  Confectioner.   Wol/inger,  Kaiser-Str. 


toBdU.  FREIBURG.  47. Route,    345 

Baths  at  the  Zahringer  Hof,  in  the  garden  of  the  Pfau,  and  at  the 
MaHenbad^  Marien-8tr.    Puhlie  Baths  at  the  Botanical  Garden  (PI.  B,  C,  5). 

Gabs.  From  the  station  into  the  town  (one-horse),  for  1  pers.  50,  2  pers. 
90,  3  perfl.  Im.  20,  4  pers.  Im.  40,  luggage  20 pf.  —  In  the  Town:  V4  hr.,  one- 
.  horse,  for  1-2  pers.  50,  34  pers.  9D  pf.,  two-horse,  70  pf.,  1  m.  j  Va  ^r, 
Jf  Im.,  lm.50,  Im.  40  pf.,  or  2m.;  8/4  hr.  1  m.  50,  2m.,  2m.,  2  m.  80  pf.; 
1  hr.  2m.,  2m.  50,  2m.  60,  3m.  40  pf.  —  To  Loretto,  one-horse,  1  m.  70, 
2m.  60  pf.',  two-horse  3m.,  3  m.  80  pf.  •,  to  Kappel  3m.  50,  4m.  60,  4m. 
60,  5  m.  60  pf. ;  to  the  Sehlossberg  ('Kanonenplatz') ,  two-horse,  4V2-5  m. ; 
to  QUnthersthal  y  1  m.  50,  2  m.,  2  m.  60  pf.,  3  m.  Longer  drives  also  ac- 
cording to  tariff;  two-horse  carr.  about  20  m.  per  day  with  fee  of  2  m. ; 
comp.  p.  371. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Ofiftoe  (PI.  20;  C,  2,  3),  Eiflenbahn-Strasse,  a  hand- 
some new  building. 

English  and  American  Ghapel,  Kaiser-Str.  61 ;  services  at  10.30  a.m.  and 
5.30  (in  winter  3.30)  p.m.     Chaplain :  Rev.  Neville  O,  M.  Neville-Lawrence. 

Prinoipal  Attractions.  The  traveller  should  follow  the  Eisenbahn-Str. 
from  the  station  through  the  town  as  far  as  the  Kaiser-Str.,  then  turn 
to  the  right,  follow  the  Salz-Str.  to  the  Schwabenthor,  and  ascend  the 
Sehlossberg^  a  walk  of  25  minutes.  On  the  way  back  visit  the  MUnster  and 
Kaufhaus  (exterior  only  of  the  latter),  traverse  the  broad  Kaiser-Strasse 
(Fountains^  War  Monttmenty  Protestant  Chweh)^  and  return  to  the  station 
by  the  Friedrichs-Strasse.  The  best  *View  is  obtained  from  the  Loretto- 
herg  by  evening-light  (cab  from  the  station  and  back  in  1-1 V2  hr.). 

Ffci6ur<7  (918  ft.),  situated  in  the  BreUgau^  11  M.  from  the 
Rhine,  vies  with  Baden  and  Heidelberg  in  the  beauty  of  its  en- 
virons. The  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest ,  the  picturesque  hills 
in  the  vicinity,  the  populous  and  fertile  plain,  bounded  by  the 
vine-clad  Kaiserstuhl ,  and  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Dreisam ,  all 
combine  to  render  the  situation  highly  attractive. 

The  town  owes  its  origin  to  Duke  Berthold  J  J.  of  Z&hringen^  who  found- 
ed it  about  1091,  and  it  remained  in  possession  of  his  successors  till  the 
line  became  extinct  in  1218.  For  over  400  years  Freiburg  belonged  to  the 
House  of  Hapsburg ;  it  suffered  much  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War ;  in  1677 
it  was  taken  by  the  French,  fortified  by  Vauban,  and  confirmed  to  them 
by  the  Peace  of  Uymwegen  in  1678;  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck  in  1697  it 
was  given  back  to  Austria,  but  captured  by  Villars  in  1713,  after  an 
obstinate  defence.  It  was  again  restored  to  Austria  by  the  Peace  of  Bastatt 
in  1714,  plundered  and  to  a  great  extent  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1746, 
and  then,  after  the  destruction  of  the  fortifications,  once  more  made  over 
to  Austria  by  the  Peace  of  Aix-la-Ghapelle  in  1748.  The  Breisgau,  an 
hereditary  possession  of  the  hou0ft  of  Austria,  of  which  Freiburg  was  the 
capital,  was  annexed  to  Baden  by  the  Peace  of  Pressburg  in  1806,  and  the 
town  thus  restored  to  the  representatives  of  the  house  of  Zahringen,  by 
which  it  was  originally  founded. 

Freiburg  is  the  chief  city  of  the  upper  Rhenish  province  of 
Baden,  and  since  1827  has  been  the  seat  of  an  archbishop  whose 
see  comprises  the  church  of  the  Upper  Rhine.  Population  41,310, 
including  about  10,000  Protestants  and  800  Jews.  Silk,  cotton, 
pottery,  buttons,  machinery,  etc.,  are  largely  manufactured  in  and 
around  the  town,  which  is  also  the  chief  market  for  the  productions 
of  the  Black  Forest.  The  streets  are  supplied  with  streams  of  pure 
water  from  the  Dreisam^  which  gives  them  an  agreeable  freshness 
in  summer,  and  the  town  is  surrounded  with  a  girdle  of  pretty 
promenades  and  villas.  Freiburg  is  indeed  one  of  the  pleasantest 
towns  in  Germany,  and  its  inhabitants  have  long  been  noted  for 


346    Route  47.  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

their  good-nature  and  courtesy.  It  is  much  patronised  as  a  residence 
by  retired  North  German  officials. 

The  railway-station  is  connected  with  the  town  by  the  Eisbn- 
BAH2r-STBA88E(Pl.  B,  0,2),  a  pleasant-looking  street,  flanked  with 
modern  villas  and  gardens.  To  the  right  rises  the  handsome  Post 
Office  (PI.  20),  by  Arnold,  On  the  left,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
town,  is  the  Monument  of  Rotteekj  the  historian  (d.  1840 ;  PI.  5). 
The  Werder-Str.  leads  to  the  right  to  the  Allee-Garten  (p.  349). 

The  Franziskaner-Platz  is  embellished  with  a  statue  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan Berthold  Sehwarz  (PI.  6 ;  D,  3),  the  inventor  of  gunpowder 
(1312;  at  Freiburg),  as  the  reliefs  indicate.  In  the  same  square 
stand  the  Gothic  Church  ofSt.  Martin  (PI.  15),  the  interior  of  which 
has  been  restored,  with  its  simple  cloisters,  and  the  Rathhauf. 

Close  by  is  the  TTnlTersity  (PI.  23;  D,  3),  founded  in  1456  by 
Archduke  Albert  IV.,  and  attended  by  900-1200  students.  Most  of 
the  lectures  are  delivered  in  the  university-buildings  in  the  town ; 
those  on  medical  and  scientific  subjects  almost  exclusively  in  the 
handsome  new  buildings  In  the  N.W.  quarter  of  the  town,  between 
the  Protestant  Church  (p.  348)  and  the  large  penitentiary  (p.  344). 
Comp.  the  Plan,  D,  E,  1. 

We  next  reach  the  broad  and  handsome  Kaisbb-Stbassb  (Pl.D, 
£,  3,  2),  which  intersects  the  town  from  N.  to  S.,  and  Is  enlivened 
¥rith  numerous  fountains.  In  the  centre  rises  an  old  ^Fountain  of 
the  late-Gothic  period,  embellished  with  a  number  of  old  and  modern 
figures.  To  the  S.  of  it  is  a  modern  fountain  with  a  statue  of  Ber- 
thold III. ,  and  inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  that  prince,  the  law- 
giver of  Freiburg  (1120),  of  his  brother  Conrad,  the  founder  of  the 
cathedral  (1123),  of  Archduke  Albert  VI.  (see  below),  and  of  Charles 
Frederick  of  Baden,  the  'Nestor  of  princes' ,  in  whose  honour  the 
fountain-column  was  erected  in  1807.  To  the  N.,  in  the  same 
street,  is  another  modern  fountain,  with  a  statue  of  Archduke  Al- 
bert, the  founder  of  the  university  (1456).  A  little  farther  on  is 
the  War  Monument,  p.  348. 

The  Munstergasse  leads  straight  to  the  W.  portal  of  the  cathe- 
dral, in  front  of  which  rise  three  lofty  columns  bearing  poor  statues 
of  the  Virgin,  St.  Alexander,  and  St.  Lambert,  the  patron-saints  of 
the  cathedral. 

The  ♦CSathedral  (^Munster;  PI.  14;  E,  3),  the  tower  of  which  is 
the  earliest  and  most  perfect  of  its  kind,  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic 
buildings  in  Germany,  and  has  justly  been  admired  from  a  very  early 
periods  The  church,  which  is  constructed  entirely  of  dark-red  sand- 
stone, was  begun  at  a  period  when  the  Gothic  style  had  not  as  yet 
become  naturalised  in  Germany.  We  accordingly  find  that  the 
transept  with  the  side-towers,  the  oldest  part  of  the  edifice,  are  in 
the  Romanesque  style.  From  the  transept  the  work  was  continued 
towards  the  W.,  so  that  the  tower  was  not  begun  till  the  end  of 
the  13th  century.    While  the  form  of  the  nave  and  aisles  resem- 


to  BdU.  FREIBUBO.  i7.  JBoufo.     347 

bles  that  of  the  contemporaneous  cathedral  of  Strasshurg,  it  is  ob- 
vious that  the  architects  found  it  difficult  to  hring  them  into  har- 
mony with  the  style  of  the  older  transept.  The  resemblance  between 
the  two  cathedrals  has  given  rise  to  the  conjecture  that  both  may 
have  been  partly  designed  by  the  same  architect.  After  the  com- 
pletion of  the  nave  and  aisles,  the  construction  of  the  choir  was 
begun,  but  it  was  not  completed  till  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent. 
(1354?- 1513).  The  most  artistic  part  of  the  whole  building  is  the 
Tower,  which  is  380  ft.  in  height.  The  three  bold  and  simple 
stories  at  once  reveal  their  structural  significance :  the  massive 
square  basement,  the  lofty  octagonal  bell-tower,  and  the  airy  pyramid 
of  perforated  masonry,  which  the  octagon,  both  in  form  and  orna- 
mentation, serves  harmoniously  to  connect  with  the  square  base.  In 
the  side  of  the  tower  is  the  Principal  Portal,  adorned  with  rich 
sculptures.  On  the  right  side  are  the  seven  Arts  and  the  Foolish 
Virgins,  on  the  left  the  Wise  Virgins  and  several  figures  from  the 
Old  Testament  looking  forward  to  the  Redemption.  On  the  wall  of 
the  portal  are  statues  of  Judaism  and  the  Church,  and  representa- 
tions of  the  Salutation,  the  Annunciation,  and  the  Adoration  of 
Christ.  In  the  segment  of  the  arch  is  portrayed  the  further  history 
of  the  Saviour  down  to  his  return  at  the  Last  Day.  Around  the 
whole  building  are  niches  containing  statues  of  saints,  fathers  of 
the  church,  prophets,  and  allegorical  figures.  The  8,  Portal  is  un- 
fortunately disfigured  with  a  portico  of  the  17th  century. 

The*lNTBBiOB(354ft.  long,  102  ft.  wide,  85  ft.  high),  consisting 
of  nave  and  aisles,  transept,  choir  and  ambulatory,  with  magnificent 
ancient  and  modern  stained-glass  windows,  is  most  impressive.  It 
has  been  recently  restored.  The  best  time  to  visit  it  is  after  10.80 
a.m.,  when  the  services  for  the  day  are  concluded  (the  sacristan, 
Miinster-Platz  29,  admits  visitors  to  the  choir,  fee  50  pf.). 

Navb.  On  the  W.  wall  are  stained-glass  rose- windows,  those  on  the 
left  new,  on  the  right  old.  The  Pulpit^  executed  by  Jerg  Kmvpf  in  1561, 
is  said  to  be  hewn  out  of  a  single  block  of  stone.  The  Twelve  Apostles^ 
by  the  pillars,  are  somewhat  rough  specimens  of  sculpture.  —  The  arch 
at  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transept  is  embellished  with  a  fresco 
by  L.  8eitz^  executed  in  1877,  and  representing  the  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin.  —  The  screen  was  constructed  in  the  17th  cent,  by  Jacc^  AUermcidt. 

9.  Aisle  (right).  Good  stained-glass  windows  of  the  15th  century.  The 
four  Evangelists  in  stained  glass  (5th  window),  after  Diirer,  by  HeVmle^ 
1822.  Below  these,  the  tombstone  with  high-relief  of  Berthold  V.  of  Zah- 
ringen ,  the  last  of  his  line  (d.  1218).  In  the  Holy  Sepulchre  Chapel  the 
Saviour  on  a  sarcophagus  \  beneath  it  the  watchmen  of  the  sepulchre  asleep, 
old  sculptures,  perhaps  by  Jerg  Kempf,  The  eight  small  stained-glass 
scenes  from  the  Passion  were  executed  by  Helmle  in  1826  from  designs  by 
Dttrer.  The  carved  wood-work  of  the  side-altars  is  old.  That  on  the  left, 
with  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  executed  in  1505,  is  the  finest. 

Choir  Chapkls.  The  stained  glass  in  these  chapels  is  damaged.  —  Altar- 
piecet :  Ist  Chapel.  *Winged  picture,  in  the  centre  SS.  Augustine,  Anthony, 
and  Rochus,  88.  Sebastian  and  Christopher  on  the  wings,  master  unknown. 
—  2nd  (University)  Chapel.  •Nativity,  and  *Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  Hol- 
bein the  Younger^  painted  about  1520,  brought  hither  from  Bale  after  the 
Reformation;  the  paintings  on  the  outside  are  of  later  date  and  little 
value.    Next  to  it,   the  ♦Portrait  of  a  priest,  dated  180O.    Near  it  are  me- 


348    BouU  47,  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

morial-Atonen  to  fonner  professors.  —  At  the  back  of  the  high-altar,  a 
winged  picture  by  Ban*  Baldung^  snmamed  Orien  (1516)  of  the  '^Crucifixion, 
on  the  left,  St.  Jerome  and  John  the  Baptist,  on  the  right,  St.  George  and 
St.  Lawrence.  The  chapel  to  the  left  behind  the  high-altar  contains  a 
Romanesque  CrudJIx  in  silTer-gllt,  brought  from  Hagdeburg,  the  head 
modem ;  also  a  few  reliefs  —  The  second  chapel  on  the  left  contains  an 
*  Adoration  of  the  15th  cent,  in  carved  wood,  with  Grothic  framework. 

Croir.  At  the  entrances  on  the  right  and  left,  reliefs  of  dukes 
Berthold  III.  and  IV. ,  Conrad  III. ,  and  Rudolph  of  Zahringen.  On  the 
wall  a  monument  of  Gen.  de  Rodi  (d.  1743).  —  '^High-altar-pieee  by  Bald- 
vng  (1516),  in  the  centre.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  between  God  the  Father 
and  Christ,  to  the  right,  St.  Peter  and  other  saints,  to  the  left,  St.  Paul 
and  some  warriors ;  outside,  the  Annunciation,  Visitation,  l^ativity,  and 
Flight  into  Egypt     Episcopal  throne  richly  carved,  1848. 

v.  Aisle.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Mt  of  Olives  a  painted  stone  relief  of 
the  Last  Sapper  (1806),  and  four  small  stained-glass  'Windows  with  scenes 
from  the  Passion,  by  Helmle,  from  designs  by  Diirer.  —  Statue  of  Arehb. 
Boll  (d.   1836),  by  Friederieh.  —  Monument  of  Archb.  DemeUr  (d.  1842). 

—  The  Egonskapelle  contains  two  modern  stained-glass  windows  executed 
by  Helmle  from  drawings  by  DUrr  ^  representing  the  Lord  appearing  to 
Moses  in  the  burning  bush,  and  King  David. 

TowBB  (p.  347).  Entrance  in  the  church  to  the  right  of  the  portal  \ 
ticket  20  pf.,  fee  to  custodian  40  pf.,  who  also  shows  the  clock  by  Schwil- 
gu^  (comp.  p.  284). 

The  Kanfhaui,  or  Merchants'  Hall  (PI.  13 ;  E,  3),  opposite  the 
S.  portal  of  the  Mfinster,  was  erected  in  the  Idth  century,  and  is 
now  being  restored.  In  front  is  a  vaulted  round-arched  portico, 
resting  on  five  pillars,  and  above  it  a  balcony  with  two  projecting 
turrets,  covered  with  coloured  tiles  and  painted  arms  in  relief;  on 
the  outer  wall,  four  small  statues  of  emperors  of  Germany.  —  The 
Komhalle ,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Mftnster-Platz ,  contains  a  fine 
concert-hall. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Kaufhaus  stands  the  Theatre  (PI.  22; 
E,  4).  Adjacent  is  an  old  Augustine  Convent,  now  converted  into 
a  school  and  containing  the  Municipal  ColUetion  of  Antiquities.  This 
comprises  fine  axes  from  Jutland  and  other  prehistoric  objects, 
Egyptian,  Roman,  and  medisBval  antiquities ,  and  a  numismatic 
cabinet  (adm.  free  on  Sun.  and  holidays,  11-1 ;  at  other  times,  fee). 

—  The  Palace  of  the  Crown-Prince^  in  the  Salz-Str.,  at  one  time 
belonged  to  the  Von  Sicklngen  family. 

In  the  N.  part  of  the  Kaiser- Strasse,  opposite  the  Infantry  Bar- 
racks (PI.  12),  built  by  the  Austrian  Government  in  1776,  rises  a 
large  ♦War  Monument  (PI,  26;  E,  2),  erected  in  1878  to  the  14th 
German  Army  Corps  and  its  leader,  General  von  Werder.  It  con- 
sists of  a  large  granite  pedestal,  surrounded  by  figures  of  soldiers, 
and  surmounted  by  a  bronze  figure  of  Victory,  by  C.  F,  Moest,  — 
A  little  farther  on  is  the  Romanesque  Froteitant  Chiirch  (PI.  16 ; 
E,  1) ,  erected  by  Hiibsch  in  1839  with  materials  from  the  ruined 
abbey-church  of  Thennenbach.  Richly-ornamented  portal.  Interior 
simple  and  chaste,  with  paintings  by  Durr.  To  the  N.  is  the 
Institution  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy,  with  a  modern  Gothic  chapel. 
The  Theological  Seminary  opposite  is  also  in  the  Gothic  style. 

The   Kaiser-Strasse  ends,    to   the  S. ,    in    the    Martinsthor 


to  BdU.  FREIBURG.  47,  Route,    349 

(PI.  D,  4),  on  the  wall  of  which  is  represented  St.  Martin  sharing 
his  cloak  with  a  beggar.  The  inscription  on  the  gateway  commem- 
orates the  bravery  shown  by  the  townspeople  in  an  engagement 
with  the  French  at  Wagenstadt  in  1796.  —  By  turning  to  the  right 
(W.)  and  following  the  Belfort-Strasse  we  reach  the  Alleegarten 
(PI.  G,  4),  pleasantly  laid  out ,  and  embellished  with  an  artificial 
waterfall,  the  three  genii  above  which  represent  the  three  tribu- 
taries of  the  Dreisam  and  the  industries  carried  on  on  their  banks. 
Opposite  rises  the  Hohere  Burgerschule,  with  sculptured  groups  by 
Knittel  in  the  pediment.  A  little  to  the  N.,  opposite  the  Synagogue, 
is  a  Monument  to  General  Werder,  by  Knittel. 

On  the  SehwabentlLor  (PI.  F,  4)  is  an  ancient  fresco,  represent- 
ing a  Swabian  peasant  driving  a  heavily-laden  waggon.  On  the 
keystone  of  the  arch  is  a  small  sitting  figure. 

From  the  Schwabenthor  a  broad  path  to  the  left  leads  through 
vineyards  and  past  the  reservoir  of  the  town-waterworks  to  the 
*8chl088berg  (427ft.  above  the  town;  PI.  F,  G,  H,  3,  4),  once  de- 
fended by  two  castles,  which  were  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1744, 
during  the  Bavarian  War  of  Succession.  The  ruins  are  surrounded 
with  pleasure-grounds.  Above  the  so-called  'Kanonen-Platz',  where 
a  road  from  Immenthal  joins  ours,  we  reach  the  Ludwigshohe^  on 
which  are  a  pavilion  and  an  iron  indicator  of  the  places  visible 
hence.  The  •View,  particularly  of  Freiburg  itself  and  of  the  valley 
of  the  Dreisam,  is  very  fine.  Morning-light  most  favourable.  —  The 
shortest  way  back  to  the  town  leads  from  the  Kanonen-Platz  through 
a  gate,  passing  RommeU  ScJUosschen  (beer-saloon,  p.  344);  another 
leads  by  the  'Kreuz'  and  Out  Schoneck  (PI.  G,2;  milk)  to  the  Karls- 
Platz  (PI.  F,  2).  A  third  but  longer  path  leads  from  the  Kreuz  N:E. 
to  the  (2Y2  M.)  Jdgerhdusehen  (fine  view),  from  which  the  traveller 
may  return  to  (1 1/2  M.)  Freiburg  by  the  suburb  of  Herdern. 

The  S.  prolongation  of  the  Kaiser- Strasse  (PI.  D,  5),  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Dreisam,  is  named  the  Quntherathal-Strasse.  From 
it  the  Baaeler-Strasse  and  Loretto-Strasae  (3rd  to  the  right)  lead  to 
the  *Lorettoberg,  a  hill  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Freiburg.  At  the 
top  are  three  chapels  under  one  roof  and  an  inn,  and  a  new  view- 
tower.    View  best  by  evening-light. 

The  Environs  of  Freiburg  are  well  shaded  with  pleasant  woods,  through 
which  of  late  years  numerous  paths  have  been  constructed,  affording 
many  beautiful  walks.    Comp.  Hap,  p.  370. 

Between  the  Lorettoberg  on  the  W.  and  the  Bromberg  on  the  E.  lies 
the  charming  *Guntheesthal,  through  which  the  above-mentioned  Giin- 
thersthal-Strasse  ascends.  At  the  entrance  to  the  valley  footpaths  diverge 
to  the  left  from  the  road,  and  lead  along  the  wooded  slopes  of  the  Brom- 
bei^.  About  2  M.  up  the  valley  lies  CKinthersthal  (Hirsch;  Zum  Kyb- 
/elsen),  with  an  old  monastery,  now  converted  into  a  brewery.  Ahout 
IV2  M.  farther  on  is  the  Kybburg  Hoiel^  whence  we  may  return  through 
the  beautiful  pine-forests  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  valley  to  the  Loretto- 
berg and  Freiburg.    (Or  we  may  turn  at  Giinthersthal.) 

At  the  'Waldeck'  (entrance  of  the  viUley),  on  the  road  to  Giinthers- 
thal, a  path  diverges  to  the  left  and  leads  to  the  "KyhfeUen  (2716  ft.),  the 


350    Route  47.  BREISAGH.  From  Baden 

top  of  which  i§   reached  in  2  hours.     The   4efeent  may   he  made   to 
Oiinthenthal. 

The  ^Schihiberg  (2118  ft.),  6  M.  to  the  8.W.  of  Freiburg,  affords  the 
best  general  view  of  the  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest. 

Pleatant  ezenrtions  may  also  be  made  to  8t.  OttiUen  (1516  ft.),  a  chapel 
and  inn  IV4  hr.  to  the  N.E.^  then  to  the  J2o««Jm>2»/ (2254  ft.)  in  lV4hr., 
and  thence  to  the  Jdgerhdu»chen(]^.  Si9).  or  the  castle  of  Zdhringen  ip.  3i4). 

Excursion  to  the  Blfllenthal^  see  p.  371.  —  A  shady  walk  ascends  the 
▼alley  of  the  Dreissm  to  the  (IV4  M.)  •fFoldssc  (Restaurant)  and  (IVa  M.) 
LittenteeUer  (Inn  and  batbs),  both  with  stations  on  the  new  Holleuthal 
Railway  (p., 371). 

The  *8chau-ins-Land,  or  Ertkasten  (4219  ft.),  the  nearest  of  the  higher 
mountains  of  the  Black  Forest,  387  ft.  higher  than  the  Blauea  (p.  379), 
and  commanding  a  similar  view,  mi^  be  ascended  in  41/2 hours.  The  best 
route  lead  by  OUnthersthal  (see  p.  349)|  beyond  which  we  follow  the  road 
through  the  picturesque  valley  watered  by  the  Bohrtrheu^  to  the  (3  M.) 
Bohrtr  restaurant,  to  which  also  carriage!  can  ascend.  The  road  divides 
here  •,  to  the  right  lies^Horben ;  to  the  left  the  path  ascends  through  woods 
(finger-posts)  via  the  IXettendobel  and  (3  H.)  the  Wot/skop/^  a  projecting 
crag  commanding  a  fine  view.  In  11/4  hr.  we  reaeh  the  ridge  to  the  K. 
of  the  summit,  which  lies  5  min.  to  the  left.  To  the  right  below  us  is 
(5  min.)  the  Rasthaus^  a  small  but  good  inn. 

About  ^4  hr.  to  the  8.  of  the  summit,  is  the  ffalde,  a  group  of  houses 
with  a  good  inn.  Thence  to  the  Kothschrei  (p.  372),  1  hr.  ■,  from  it  direct 
to  the  Feldberg,  2Vs  hrs.  —  The  Belchen  lies  dVs  hrs.  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
Schau-ins-Land ;  footpath  via  the  Edmle  and  the  Wiedener  Eck  (p.  380). 
—  Both  the  Feldberg  and  the  Belchen  are  good  points  from  which  to  ex- 
tend our  mountain-expedition,  from  the  Feldberg  to  the  Belchen,  vi&  the 
Notbsehrei  and  the  Wiedener  Eck  (see  above),  12  M.  $  from  the  Belohen  to 
the  Blauen,  12  M. 

From  Fbbibuho  to  Colmab  (28  M.).  Railway  in  1 1/4-2  hrs. ; 
fares  4  m.  20,  2  m.  90,  1  m.  80  pf. 

The  line  traverses  the  Mooswald^  a  marshy  tract,  crosses  the 
Dreisam  Canal^  and  turns  to  the  W.,  between  the  undulating  slopes 
of  the  Tuni-Berg  on  the  left,  and  the  Kaiserstuhl  (p.  344)  on  the 
•right.  5  M.  Hugstetten  (Kreuz);  7^2  M.  Oottenheim  (Adler); 
91/2  M.  Wasenweiler;  IIY4  M.  Ihringen  (Ochs). 

141/2  M.  Alt-Breisach  (744  ft.  j  ^Deutscher  Kaiser^  or  Post; 
Salmen)j  the  Roman  Mons  BrisiacuSy  a  picturesque  old  town,  with 
3300  inhab.,  situated  on  the  extreme  S.W.  spur  of  the  vine-clad 
Kaiserstuhl,  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  rock  rising  precipitously  to  a  height 
of  240ft.  above  the  Rhine. 

As  lately  as  the  10th  cent.,  the  Rhine  is  said  to  have  flowed  round 
the  town,  which  was  anciently  an  important  fortress  and  regarded  as  the 
key  of  Germany.  After  1331  it  belonged  to  Austria;  in  1()38  it  was  taken 
after  a  long  siege  by  the  Swedes  under  Bernhard  von  Weimar ;  after  his 
death  garrisoned  by  the  French ;  in  17(X)  again  in  possession  of  Austria; 
in  1703  taken  by  Tallard  and  Vauban-,  and  in  1714  restored  to  the  Aus- 
trians.  In  1740  a  change  in  the  course  of  the  Rhine  proved  so  detrimen- 
tal to  the  fortifications,  that  they  were  abandoned  and  partly  demolished 
by  the  Austrians,  and  then  completely  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1793. 
The  Rheinthor  bears  the  following  plaintive  inscription,  dating  from  the 
time  when  the  disunited  Germans  felt  their  inability  to  repel  the  attacks 
of  the  French  :  — 

Limes  eram  Oallis,  nunc  pons  et  j'antia  Jto; 
3i  perffunty  Qallis  nullibi  limes  eriti 

On  the  highest  point  in  the  town  rises  the  *  Cathedral  of 
8t.  Stephen ,  a  cruciform  edifice.   The  choir,  supported  by  an  open 


ioBdU.  mClLHEIM.  47,Bouie.    351 

substructure,  the  S.  tower,  aad  theW.  half  of  the  naye  are  Gothic, 
dating  from  the  14th  cent. ;  the  transept  andN.  tower  are  Roman- 
esque. It  contains  a  beautiful  rood-loft  of  the  latter  part  of  the  15th 
cent.,  and  a  large  Gothic  winged  altar-piece  in  carved  wood,  exe- 
cuted in  1526  by  Hans  Lieveringp),  representing  the  Coronation 
of  Idle  Virgin.  The  interior  was  restored  and  painted  in  1879.  Two 
laige  pictures  in  the  choir  by  Diirr,  1851.  Fine  view  from  the 
terrace.  —  In  the  ^Sehlossga^ten'  is  a  tower  erected  in  honour  of 
Colonel  Tulla,  an  officer  of  engineers.  To  the  S.  rises  the  Eekards- 
berg^  with  fragments  of  an  old  fortress. 

At  the  base  of  tbe  Eaiserstuhl,  on  the  Rhine,  TVs  M.  to  the  K  of  Brei- 
sach,  lies  the  ruin  of  Sponecl  C^Grossherzog  Leopold),  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  Alsace,  the  Vosges  Mts.,  dc.  Ahout  2"/4  M.  farther  on  is  the  ruin 
of  Ltmburffy  where  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  was  born  in  1218.  (On  Sundays 
a  steamer  sails  from  Breisach  to  Sponeck  and  Limburg.) 

The  railway  now  crosses  the  Rhine  by  means  of  a  new  iron 
bridge.  —  16  M.  Neu- Breisach ,  a  small  fortress,  constructed  by 
Yauban  in  1703,  and  taken  by  the  Germans  in  1870,  after  a  siege 
of  eight  days.  22^/2  M.  Sundhofen.   28  M.  Colmar,  see  p.  294. 


Fbom  Fsbibvbo  to  Bam  (39  M.).  Railway  in  IV4-2V2  hrs. 
(fares  5  m.,  3  m.  30,  2  m.  10  pf. ;  express-fares  6  m.  50,  4  m.  55, 
3  m.  20 pf.).  The  train  skirts  the  vine-elad  W.  spurs  of  the  Black 
Forest.  Stations  ^t.  Qeorgen  and  SehallsiadU  —  9^2  ^*  Krotungen 
(Badifloher  Hof,  at  the  station;  Rossle,  in  the  village,  a  short 
distance  from  the  railway ;  diligence  to  Siaufen,  p.  380).  The  small 
town  of  (13M.)  Hieitertheim  (AdUr;  Kttuz),  once  the  seat  of  the 
Master  of  the  Maltese  Order,  io  3/4  M.  from  the  station.  To  the  £., 
4V2  M.  up  the  vaUey,  lies  the  town  of  SuUtburg  (Hirsch ;  diligence 
twice  daily),  pretjtily  situated  amidst  wood;  3  M.  farther  on  is  Bad 
Sulxburg.   15  M.  Buggingen, 

18  M.  MftUheim.  —  Hotttls.  *BABNKor»-HdTSi.,  at  the  sUtion,  with 
garden  and  restaurant;  Wsissss  Kbedz,  nearer  the  town;  Schwan  and 
Xeue  Post,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  V/t  M.  from  the  station ;  Lowe. 
—  Omnibus  to  Badenweiler,  see  p.  376.  Travellers  arriving  late  are  recom- 
mended to  pass  the  night  at  Miillheim,  as  the  hotels  at  Badenweiler  are 
sometimes  full. 

MiiUhdm  (882ft.)  is  a  thriving  little  town  of  3300  inhab.,  with 
a  new  church,  lying  on  the  hill-side,  1  M.  from  the  station,  and 
extending  for  about  1  M.  up  the  valley  of  the  KUmmbachj  through 
which  runs  the  road  to  Badenweiler.  It  is  noted  for  the  Mark- 
grafler  wine  produced  in  the  neighbourhood.  —  Branch-railway  to 
Mulhauaeny  see  p.  298. 

19ViM,  Auggen  (Bar);  21 M.  Sehlimgen  (845ft. ;  Krone;  dili- 
gence to  Kandern,  b^/2  M.,  twice  a  day).  The  line  now  approaches 
the  Rhine,  which  is  here  divided'  by  islands  into  several  arms. 
Best  views  to  the  right.  24  M.  Bellingcni  25^2  M.  RheinweiUr } 
271/2  M.  KUinkema. 

Then  three  short  tunnels  through  the  ^Tsteiner  Klotz' ,  a  lime- 


352    Route  47.  BALE. 

stone  cliff  overhanging  the  water,  to  (31  M.)  Efringen.  The  eon- 
struction  of  the  line ,  which  winds  along  the  hillside  high  above 
the  river,  is  an  object  of  interest  between  Bellingen  and  Efringen. 
At  (33  M.)  Eimeldingen  (878  ft.)  the  train  crosses  the  Kander, 
beyond  which  a  fine  view  is  disclosed.  35  M.  Haltingen;  37  M. 
LeopoldakoJie^  whence  a  branch-line  diverges  to  St.  Ludwig  (p.  299). 
The  train  now  crosses  the  WieiCf  and  stops  at  the  station  of  (39  M.) 
Klein-Basel,  V2  M.  from  the  Rhine-bridge,  and  connected  with  the 
central  station  at  Bile  by  a  junction-line. 

B&le*  —  Hotels.  Dbei  Konigb,  on  the  Rhine,  B.  3-5,  L.  and  A. 
I'/afr--,  SCHWEiZEBHOP  and  H6tel  Edleb,  at  the  central  station,  R.  3fr.; 
HdTEL  National;  Jura,  near  the  station-,  Lokenz;  Hofeb;  Goldener 
Falkb;  Wilder  Mannj  Stobch;  Kbone;  Bellevde;  Post.  —  At  Klein- 
Basel:  HflTEL  Ebafft;  Kbeuz,  both  on  the  Rhine;  Basleb  Hop,  Schbie- 
DRB,  near  the  station. 

Bdle,  or  Basel,  the  capital  of  the  canton  Basel-Stadt  (nop.  61 ,400), 
and  a  busy  commercial  place,  is  first  mentioned  in  374  as  Basilea. 
In  the  middle  ages  it  was  a  free  city,  of  the  empire,  and  in  1501  it 
became  a  member  of  the  Swiss  Confederation.  The  *Munst€r  was 
erected  in  the  Gothic  style  in  the  14th  cent. ,  on  the  site  of  an 
older  Romanesque  building,  of  which  the  W.  portal  still  remains, 
and  was  consecrated  In  1363.  The  towers  were  not  completed  till 
1500.  In  the  interior  (sacristan  V2  ^'0  *re  some  very  fine  pieces  of 
sculpture  (monuments,  rood-loft)  of  the  12th-15th  centuries.  The 
Council  Hall,  so  named  from  the  convocation  which  sat  in  the  cathe- 
dral from  1431  to  1448,  contains  the  remains  of  the  celebrated  Basel 
Dance  o/'DcatA  (1439).  The  cloisters  date  from  the  14th  and  15th 
centuries.  Extensive  view  from  the  Pfalz ,  a  terrace  behind  the 
MtLnster.  The  *Mu8eum  (open  daily,  fee  1  fr.),  in  the  street  lead- 
ing from  the  Miinster  to  the  bridge,  is  chiefly  valuable  for  its  col- 
lection of  paintings  and  drawings  by  Holbein  the  Younger  (b.  at 
Augsburg  1497,  d.  at  London  1543),  who  lived  at  Bale  in  1515-26 
and  1528-32.  There  are  also  a  number  of  good  works  by  modern 
painters  (Vautier,  Calame,  Girardet,  etc.).  Bale  contains  several 
other  interesting. buildings,  such  as  the  Rathhaut  of  1508,  and  the 
Spahlenthofj  built  in  1400,  formerly  one  of  the  town-gates.  The 
most  important  churches  after  the  Miinster  are  the  Gothic  Church  of 
St.  Martin^  the  Church  of  St.  Leonhard,  and  the  new  Church  of 
St.  Elizabeth.    For  farther  details  see  Baedeker's  Switzerland. 


48.  The  Black  Forest  (Duchy  0/ Baden). 

Pedestrian  Todb  of  eleven  days  from  Baden.  1st.  Bbersteinsfchloss, 
Forbach,  Schonmiinzach  (p.  356).  —  2nd.  Hornisgrlnde ,  Mummelsee, 
AUerheiligen  (p.  359).  —  3rd.  Oppenau,  (drive  to)  Griesbach,  (walk  to) 
Holzwalderhohe,  Rippoldsau,  Schapbach  (p.  364).  —  4th.  Wolfach,  railway 
to  Triberg  (p.  366),  Furtwangen.  —  5th.  Simonswald,  Waldkirch,  Denz- 
lingen,  railway  to  Freiburg  (p.  344).  —  6th.  Freiburg  and  Environs  (B.  47). 
—  7th.  (Drive  to  entrance  of  the)  Hollenthal  (the  railway  as  far  as  Titisee 
is  to  be  opened  in  1887),   Feldberg  (p.  374).   —  8th.  St.  Blasien,  Hochen- 


BLACK  FOREST.  48,  Route.     353 

schwand  (p.  386),  by  the  Albstrasse  to  Albbruck.  —  9th.  Railway  to  Brennet, 
Wehr  (cavern  at  Hasel),  Todtmoos  (p.  383).  ^  10th.  Prag,  Schonau,  Belchen 
(p.  380).  —  11th.  Badenweiler  and  environs  (p.  376). 

The  maps  in  the  Handbook,  on  the  scale  of  1:280,000,  will  probably 
be  found  amply  snfflcient  for  the  ordinary  traveller  ^  they  are  based  on  the 
Ordnance  Maps  of  Baden  (1 :  60,000;  1^4  m.  per  sheet).  The  new  Ordnance 
Map^  on  a  scale  of  1:26,000,  is  not  yet  completed. 

Of  all  the  wooded  districts  of  Germany,  none  presents  so  beau- 
tiful and  varied  landscapes  as  the  Black  Forest ,  especially  the  W. 
portion,  belonging  to  Baden,  the  spurs  of  which  decline  pre- 
cipitously towards  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  whilst  the  £.  slopes 
are  more  gradual.  The  Kinzigthal  (p.  364)  divides  the  mountains 
of  the  Black  Forest  into  two  portions ,  which  are  also  distinct  in 
regard  to  their  geological  formation:  viz.  the  Lowbb  Black  Fobbst 
to  the  N.,  consisting  chiefly  of  variegated  sandstone,  and  cul- 
minating In  the  Homisgrinde  (3825  ft. ;  p.  358] ;  and  the  Ufpbb 
Black  Fobbbt  to  the  S. ,  in  which  granite  and  gneiss  predominate, 
and  of  which  the  Fddberg  (4921  ft. ;  p.  374),  the  Belchm  (4641  ft.; 
p.  380),  the  Herzogshotn  (4583  ft.),  and  the  Barenkalde  (4831  ft.) 
are  the  highest  mountains.  The  lower  heights  are  covered  with 
fragrant  pine  -  forests ,  while  the  populous  valleys  are  generally 
fertile  and  well-cultivated.  Numerous  mineral  springs  have  given 
rise  to  a  number  of  little  watering-places,  which  offer  tempting 
retreats,  and  good  inns  are  found  in  various  other  places.  Charges 
have  risen  of  late  years,  so  that  living,  even  in  the  remotest  dis- 
tricts, is  no  longer  so  remarkably  cheap  as  formerly.  (The  following 
is  the  average  scale :  B.  i i/a-^m-,  B.  60  pf.  to  1  m.,  D.  11/2-272^0 

The  staple  commodity  is  timber,  which  is  floated  down  the  prin- 
cipal streams  to  the  Rhine ,  where  larger  rafts  are  constructed  and 
navigated  to  Holland.  The  great  timber-merchants,  locally  called 
*SchlfFer',  have  been  for  centuries  formed  into  the  so-called 
'Schiffergesellschaften'  (p.  354),  whose  profits  are  divided  in  shares 
termed  ^Stamme'.  Their  extensive  foresta  are  known  aa  ^Schiffer- 
wald'  in  contradistinction  to  the  ^Herrschaftliche  Wald'»  or  private 
property.  The  ohief  branch  of  industry  in  the  Black  Forest  is  clock- 
making,  while  straw-hats,  brushes,  and  wooden  wares  are  also 
largely  manufactured.  In  this  prosperous  district  beggars  are  un- 
known. To  German  scholars  the  charms  of  the  Black  Forest  will  be 
much  enhanced  by  a  perusal  of  the  AlUmannUche  Qediehte  of  HebeL 

The  Black  Forest  Cluby  instituted  in  1873,  has  done  much  to  increase 
the  facilities  and  pleasures  of  a  tour  in  this  picturesque  district  by  the 
construction  of  paths,  the  erection  of  finger-posts,  etc.  The  headquarters 
of  the  club  are  at  Freibnrg  (annual  subscription  5  m.). 

a.   From  Bastatt  to  Gomsbach  and  AUorhoiligon. 

Xurgthal,  Homisgrinde*  XammeUee. 

Two  Days.  Ist.  Railway  to  Oemsbachy  see  below  (or  from  Baden  to 
(jtornshach  on  foot,  6  or  8Vs  M.,  comp.  p.  340)  \  thence  to  Forbach  10  H. 
(or  from  Baden  to  Forbach  direct  12  H. ,  see  below) ,  Forbach  to  ScA&n- 
m^Moeh  7  H.  s  2nd.  Schonmunaach  to  the  summit  of  the  Homisgrinde  4Vs 
hrs. ,  down  to  the  Mummelsee  i/s  hr.,  Seebach  1  hr.,  OUenhU/en  1  hr.,  and 

Basdrkek's  Rhine.   10th  Edit.  23 


354    Bauieda.  OERNSBAOH.  Black  Fore$t. 

thence  over  the  hiil  to  AlUrheMfftu  V/t  br.  (or  from  the  MmnmeUee  hy 
the  £ekie^  Wilde  tiee^  and  JfMem  to  AHerhmligeu,  4  hrf.;  in  aU8ijr9hn. 

i^KOM  iUsTAiT  (p.  831)  TO  Gbbmsbach,  9  M.,  railway  iu  41 
mill,  tfares,  1  m.  50,  i  m.  *Z0,  76  pf.).  2V2  M.  Kuppenhehn  (Ochs), 
a  siuaU  town  with  1948iahab.,  on  the  left  hank  of  the  Murff,  which 
is  here  spanned  by  an  iron  bridge. 

Among  the  wooda  1  M .  from  the  station  of  Kuppenheim,  and  6  M.  to 
the  N.W.  of  Baden,  rites  the  FaYorite,  a  chateau  of  the  Grand  Duke, 
erected  in  172D,  in  the  rucocu  style,  by  the  Margravine  Sibylla  Augusta, 
widow  of  the  Margrave  Lewis  WilUam  (d.  ilOJ),  who  after  the  death  of 
her  husband  saperiniended  the  education  of  her  sons  for  nineteen  yearn, 
and  then  retired  to  this  spot.  The  Interior  is  decorated  in  the  taste  of 
the  period  and  has  been  preserved  unaltered.  Small  restaurant.  —  From 
the  Alte  Sehloss  at  Baden  or  from  the  Ebersteinburg  (p.  38B),  pleasant 
paths  lead  ttirough  the  woods  to  (6  M.)  the  Favorite. 

The  line  continues  iu  the  valley  of  the  Afury,  here  upwards  of 
3  M.  in  width.  —  5  M.  BotkenfeU,  with  a  small  chateau  of  the 
Margrave  >ViIliam,  a  mineral-spring  (*Bath-house,  *pens.'  5  m.) 
and  well-kept  grounds.  Near  {py^  M.j  Qagifenau  (Hose)  rises  a 
monument  to  M.  Klndescfawender,  a  patriotic  native  of  Baden.  — 

9  M.  HordUn. 

9  H.  Geraibaek.  —  Station  below  the  town  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Murg.  —  Hotels.  ^KiSFKEMAoajuBiJ),  pine-cone  baths  aad  hotel,  above 
the  village.  —  *Stken,  *Kkonb,  R.  I'/r'A  i>.  2,  *pens.'  from  i  m. ;  Lows, 
WiLDbK  Mamm,  near  the  station,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Murg,  both  un- 
pretending ■,  ADLsa,  in  the  market-place.  ->  In  8eh€U4m,  V«  JH.  above  Gems- 
bach :  i'juiaiON  Zucmkuiamk,  board  dVa^m.  per  day,  R.  10*15,  vrith  2  beds 
i&-2U  m.  a  v\  eek. 

Carriages  (no  authoritative  tariff)  to  Sehloss  Eberstein,  with  two 
horses  6  m.,  fee  1  m.,   with  one  horse  4  m.,  fee  70  pf. ;   to  Baden  direct 

10  m.,  fee  1  m.  40  pf..  or  7  m.,  fee  Im.^  to  Baden  via  Sehloss  Eberstein 
12  m..  fee  I'/s  m.,  or  8  m.,  fee  1  m.  j  to  Forbach  10  m.,  fee  1  m.  20  pt., 
or  6'/'i  m.,  fee  1  m.  ^  to  Schonmiinzach  IS  m.,  fee  2  in.,  or  12  m.,  fee 
I'/s  ni. ;  to  Wildbad  30  m.,  fee  4  m.,  or  20  m.,  fee  8  m.  At  night  a  fare 
and  a  third. 

DiLiGKNCE  to  (ISVs  M.)  Schonmunzach  in  3V2  hrs.,  and  to  (27  M.) 
Freudenstadt  in  3^/4  hrs.  more,  twice  daily  in  summer. 

Oemsbaeh  {J&^l  ft.),  the  terminus  of  the  railway  from  Rastatt 
(p.  331),  on  the  Murgj  which  is  here  crossed  by  a  new  bridge,  is 
an  ancient  and  thriving  little  town ,  with  2663  inhab. ,  and  now 
frequently  resorted  to  as  a  summer -residence.  It  is  the  bead* 
quarters  of  the  ^MurgthalscbifTeT-Qesellschaft',  a  company  whi^h 
has  been  established  for  centuries  and  owns  about  16,000  acres  of 
forest  (^comp.  p.  363).  The  *Ruthhau8y  with  its  corner-oriel,  built 
in  1617,  is  a  good  example  of  the  Renaissance  style.  The  Protestant 
Chuirck  contains  the  tombs  of  several  Counts  of  Eberstein. 

Fkom  Ge&msbach  to  HxnBKNAui,  8  M.,  diligence  daily  in  2  hrs.,  vi& 
(3  M.)  Loffenau  (Adlerj  Stern  J,  a  long  village,  with  a  modern  Gothic  church 
of  red  sandstone.  In  ths  middle  of  the  village  a  path  to  the  right  leads 
to  the  Teu/eUmUhle  (2985  ft.),  a  conspicuous  mountain  to  the  right.  The 
'  summit  (IVa  hr.)  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Prom  Loffenau  the  road 
ascends  to  the  (2  M.)  Kdppele,  shortly  before  which  a  flnger-post  indicates 
the  way  to  the  (I72  M.)  Htukop/^  which  commands  another  fine  view.  From 
the  Kappele  to  Herrenalb  is  a  descent  of  not  quite  1  hr.  Pedestrians  cut 
off  2  M.  by  following  the  footpath  to  the  Kappele,  which  diverges  about 
100  paces  beyond  the  church  (finger-post). 


Bktefe  PortH.  FORBACH.  48.  Route.    355 

Hwrenalb  {* Sonnet  *Oeht  orPo«/,  unpretending;  BeUevue;  Waldhom ; 
Dr.  MerfnmgmCt  B^dropathie  E$tabli*f»mentf  apartments  in  several  Tillas), 
a  village  with  600  inhab.,  frequented  on  account  of  its  equable  and  some- 
what moist  climate.  The  once  celebrated  Benedictine  abbey,  founded  by 
a  Count  of  Bberstein  in  1118,  was  destroyed  by  the  Swedes  in  1642.  The 
church  contains  the  tomb  of  the  Margrave  Bernhard  of  Baden  (d.  1431), 
with  a  recumbent  figure.  In  the  churchyard  are  remains  of  cloisters  of 
the  12th  cent.,  with  round  arches  supported  by  small  columns,  containing 
tombs  of  the  abbots.  The  portal  towards  the  road  is  of  the  15th  century. 
In  the  distance,  farther  down  the  Albthal,  the  suppressed  abbey  of  Frauen- 
aW  is  seen  on  a  rocky  eminence.  Pleasant  walk  of  30  min.  to  the  Falken- 
steinf  a  huge  granite  rock  rising  from  the  valley.  Diligence  to  Ettlingen 
(12V2  M. )  see  p.  331)  twice,  and  to  Keuenburg  (14  M. ;  p.  323)  thrice  daily. 

From  Herrenalb  to  Wildbad,  12  M. ,  the  high-road  runs  vi&  Dobet 
(Sonne;  Waldhom;  extensive  view  from  the  Signal,  2368  ft.,  V«  M.),  and 
then  descends.  There  are  several  short-cuts  for  pedestrians.  —  Wildbad. 
see  p.  323. 

From  the  road  ascending  the  valley  of  the  Murg  (p.  356),  ^2  M. 
from  Gemshach,  a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  (I72  M.)  *8ohloM 
BberiteinflOl?  ft.),  founded  in  the  13th  cent. ,  afterwards  destroyed, 
and  in  1798  restored  nnder  the  name  of  *Neu-Eber8t€in\  It  is 
delightfully  situated  on  a  wooded  eminence ,  high  above  the  Murg. 
It  contains  ancient  relics,  weapons,  armour,  etc.,  and  in  one  of  the 
apartments  pictures  of  the  16th  century.  The  beautiful  and  exten- 
sive *View  embraces  the  picturesque  Murgthal,  upwards  nearly  to 
Rauhmiinzach,  and  downwards  as  far  as  the  Rhine  valley. 

Pedestrians  may  reach  Baden  from  Schloss  Kberstein  in  2^14  hrs.  by 
the  road  mentioned  at  p.  340,  via  Hullenbach,  Oberbeuern,  and  Lich ten- 
thai.    Carriages  take  172  hr.    The  road  leads  at  first  through  flne  woods. 

A  footpath  descends  from  the  castle  to  the  S.  to  OberUroth 
(Blume),  1  M.  from  Qernsbaoh,  on  the  Murgthal  road.  At  (1  M.) 
RUperiaau  the  road  crosses  the  Murg. 

A  road  traversing  pictare«qa«  scenery  leads  hence  hyHnehmikal  (1329  ft.) 
and  the  forester's  house  of  KalUnbromn  0^848  ft.)i  and  past  the  (right)  Bith- 
Ich  (3248  ft.)  to  (21  H.)  Wildbad  (p.  323). 

The  Murgthal  between  Gemsbach  and  Schonmunzach  is  wild 
and  beautiful.  The  slopes  are  richly  clothed  with  wood.  As  far  as 
Schonmiinzach  the  rocks  consist  of  granite,  huge  blocks  of  which 
lie  scattered  about ;  beyond  it  the  formation  is  gneiss ,  whence  the 
smooth,  rounded  aspect  of  the  slopes.  Variegated  sandstone  also 
occurs.  The  valley  then  widens  and  loses  much  of  its  peculiar 
charm.  It  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  in  descending. 

2Y2  M.  (from  Gernsbach)  Weissenbach  (636  ft. ;  *Orun€r 
Baum),  the  modern  Gothic  church  of  which  contains  some  good 
stained-glass  and  modern  altar-pieces.  The  hamlet  of  Au  lies  pic- 
turesquely on  the  left  bank  of  the  Murg.  The  valley  becomes  nar- 
rower and  wilder ;  (^VaM.)  Langenhrand  (872  ft. ;  Ochs) ;  (1 V2  M.) 
QaiuhctGh  (*Waldhornj.  Near  (^/^  M.)  Foibach  the  new  road  crosses 
the  Murg  by  a  lofty  iron  bridge. 

Forhaeh  (1090  ft. ;  *Oruner  Hof,  near  the  new  bridge ;  *Krone, 
a  little  farther  from  the  bridge,  R.  &  B.  2  m.  10  pf. ;  Hirtck,  Lowe, 
by  the  old  bridge),  a  thriving  village,  with  a  picturesque  church 
on  a  hlU  and  a  vaniline  factory,  is  the  finest  point  in  the  valley. 

23* 


356     BouU  48.  FREUDBNSTADT.  Blade  Foreii, 

The  DiRBCT  BouTK  from  Baden  to  Forbaeh  (13  U.)  followB  the  high- 
road at  the  PiflciciUtural  BsUblisbment  (p.  8il8t  4>/i  M.  from  the  Con- 
vertatioashaus  in  Baden)  to  (>/s  M.)  Gaiiback  and  (IVs  M.)  Sehmaiback, 
beyond  which  we  take  the  path  through  the  woods,  indicated  by  finger- 
posts, surmounting  the  hill,  to  (4i/s  M.)  JSermertbaeh  (1860  ft.)-  We  may 
now  either  ascend  to  the  right  at  the  second  fountain  in  the  village,  or 
proceed  to  the  inn  (Blume)  beyond  the  church,  and  thence  follow  the  path 
through  the  woods  (the  villagers  will  show  the  beginning  of  the  path) 
to  (l>/«  M.)  Farkath. 

Fkom  Fokbaou  to  Ukbesnwibb  (p.  342),  12  M.,  a  lonely  but  easily 
traced  forest  path  past  the  Herrenwieser  See. 

Beyond  Forbach  the  Murgthal,  although  more  secluded,  con- 
tinues grand  and  beautiful.  About  halfway  to  Schonmunzach  the 
HaueMnunxcuh  falls  into  the  Murg ;  1  M.  above  the  confluence  the 
former  is  augmented  by  the  Schwartbaeh ;  below  the  *Fallbrtlcke'  is 
a  picturesque  waterfall.  A  new  road  leads  through  the  valley  of  the 
Schwaczbach  to  (lOYg  M.)  Herrenwiea  (see  above). 

14  M.  Sohozununzach  (l496  ft ;  ^GLashutU  or  Post,  R.  l-ia/^m., 
A.  40,  B.  70  pf.;  ^Waldhom;  Schif),  the  first  village  in  Wurtem- 
berg,  contains  a  glass-work,  employing  seventy  hands,  and  Is  a  fav- 
ourite  summer-resort.  The  Schonmunzach  falls  into  the  Murg  here. 
To  the  Hornisgrinde,  see  p.  357.  Numerous  pleasant  walks  in  the 
woods.  Carriage  to  the  £ckU  14,  to  Ottenhofen  20,  to  Allerheiligen 
28  m. 

About  V*  ^*  above  Schonmiinzach  a  path  ascends  to  the  right  to  the 
Klararuh  and  the  (Vs  hr.)  ^Schlost\  or  site  of  the  old  castle  of  Bauenfels, 
which  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  valley.  The  footpath  leads  thence 
through  the  valley  to  the  (V«  hr.)  Saw  Mill.  Fine  view  on  emerging  from 
the  woods.  —  About  */4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Schonmiinsach  is  a  guide-post  indicat- 
ing the  way  to  a  swimmiBg*bath.  ^  In  the  mountains,  3  H.  to  the  W., 
is  the  solitary  Sehurmsee. 

The  Murg)  1^/2  Ai.  beyond  Schonmiinzach ,  penetrates  a  preci- 
pitous wail  of  rock,  beyond  which  the  valley  loses  its  wild  character. 
The  village  of  SchwartenJberg  (^Ochs)  on  the  height  to  the  left  com- 
mands a  pleasant  view ;  on  the  right  Buizenbach ;  then  (2^4  M,) 
Schonengrund  (Hirsch),  whence  a  road  leads  to  the  N.  by  Besenfeld 
and  Vrnagold  to  Enzklosterle  (^*Waldhorn),  and  through  the  Euzthal 
to  Wildbad  (p.  323).  On  this  road,  2/4  M.  from  Schonengrund,  are 
situated  the  scanty  remains  of  the  castle  of  Konigswart, 

The  next  village  in  the  Murgthal  is  (3^4  M.)  Reickenback 
(•Sonne,  also  a  'pension'),  with  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey, 
founded  in  1082;  the  church,  a  flat-roofed  Romanesque  basilica 
with  a  W.  portico,  was  restored  in  1849. 

23V2  ^*  BaierBbronn  (1913  ft. ;  Zum  Ochacnjy  a  considerable 
village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Murg  and  the  Forbach, 

The  road  following  the  course  of  the  latter  passes  the  considerable 
government- foundries  of  Friedriehsthal  and  Chrittophithal  ^  and  leads  to 
(4i/s  H.)  Frendenstadt  ( Schwartteald  ffdtely  at  the  station,  outside  the 
town^  lAnde;  beer  at  the  Happen )y  a  loftily-situated  town  of  Wartem- 
berg  (6100  inhab.) .  with  a  curiously-constructed  Protestant  church ,  built 
in  ieOi-8.  This  edifice  consists  of  two  naves  at  right  angles  to  each  other, 
in  one  of  which  the  male,  and  in  the  other  the  femaile  members  of  the 
'ion^regation  sit^  while  the  altar  and  pulpit  are  placed  at  the  angle.     The 


Black  Forett  RUHSTEIN.  48.  Route.    857 

Bomanttqiie  font  from  the  eonyent  of  Alpirsbaeh  and  tke  Bkilfnlly-carved 

choir-fltalls  are  noteworthy.  ITear  the  Boman  Catholic  church,  V*  H.  from 
the  town,  a  ^View  of  the  Swabian  Alb,  Hohenzollern,  Ac,  is  enjoyed.  — 
Good  roads  lead  from  Freudenstadt  to  the  W.  over  the  Kniebis  (p.  361)  to 
Oppenauy  and  to  the  S.  to  (IIV4  M.)  Alpirsbaeh  (p.  364 ;  diligence  daily)  and 
ScMltach  (p.  364).  —  Railway  to  Stuttgart^  see  Baedeker's  8.  Oermany. 

At  Baiersbronn  the  Talley  of  the  Murg  turns  towards  the  N.  W., 
and  is  traversed  by  a  new  road,  which  crosses  first  the  (^4  M.) 
Forbach  and  then  the  (1/4  M.)  Murg.  From  (3  M.)  Mittelihal  (Wald- 
horn)  a  road  leads  S.  to  the  (41/2  M.)  Kniebis,  joining  the  road  de- 
scribed at  p.  361  near  the  Schwedenschanze  (p.  361).  About  IV2M. 
farther  up  the  Murgthal,  into  which  numerous  brooks  are  precipi- 
tated from  the  Kniebis,  is  the  Schwan  Jnn,  near  which  is  the  ruin 
of  Tannenfela,  situated  on  a  precipitous  rock  in  a  wUd  gorge  to  the 
right.  We  then  soon  reach  the  first  houses  of  Oberthal,  whence  a 
road  (172^-  ^rona  the  ^Schwan*)  diverges  on  the  left  to  the  (I72M.) 
large  Buhlbaeh  Olasskouse  (•Inn). 

The  road  continues  to  ascend,  forming  long  windings  towards  the 
top,  to  (6  M.)  the  Buhstein  (3018 ft. ;  Inn;  to  the  Wilde  See  and 
•Allerheiligen,  see  p.  360),  whence  it  descends  again  (commanding 
several  fine  views)  into  the  valley  of  the  Acker,  Lastly  it  passes  the 
Wolfsbrunnen  Jnn,  where  there  is  a  finger-post  indicating  the  way 
to  the  Mummelsee  (3/^  hr.,  p.  368),  and  reaches  (3  M.)  Seebach]  in 
all  about  5-572  l^rs.  from  Baiersbronn. 


To  THB  H0BNI8OBINDB  AND  MvMMBLSBB  two  xoads  lead  from 
Schonmunzach  (see  p.  356),  the  Baden  road  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
SchdnmUnuiehj  and  the  Wurtemberg  road  on  the  right.  Following 
the  latter,  which  diverges  at  the  Schiff  Inn,  beyond  the  bridge,  we 
reach  (3  M.)  Zwichgabel  (Inn),  cross  the  brook,  and  ascend  to  the 
right  along  the  Langenbach ,  which  at  Zwickgabel  unites  with  the 
Schonmiinzach.  The  road  then  passes  (1^2  M.)  VorcUr-Langenbach, 
and  at  (274  M.)  Hinter-Langenbach  (Ziifle)  ascends  to  the  left. 

About  74  M.  farther  on  is  a  way-post,  indicating  the  route  to 
the  (4  M.)  Wilde  See  and  (12  M.)  AUerheiligen.  The  road  now 
ascends  more  rapidly  to  the  (3  M.)  StiptlaeeldB  or  EelUe,  the  angle 
of  a  wood,  with  a  refuge-hut  on  the  saddle  of  the  mountain,  whete 
a  stone  marks  the  boundary  between  Wurtemberg  and  Baden,  and 
a  view  of  the  Yoages  is  obtained.  The  road  to  the  left  descends  to 
Seebaeh  (see  below),  situated  on  the  new  road  through  the  Murg- 
thal; a  footpath  only  leads  to  the  Hornisgrinde.   Stone  way-post. 

Thkbb  Paths  here  enter  the  wood :  that  most  to  the  rtght  leads 
to  the  S.E. ,  and  fbrms  the  boundary  between  the  above  -  men- 
tioned states ;  the  second  and  most  trodden,  also  inclining  to  the 
right,  leads  past  the  Vrei-FurstoMtein ,  bearing  the  arms  of  Ba- 
den and  Wurtemberg,  to  the  summit  of  the  Hornisgrinde.  The 
third  path  (to  the  Mummelsee),  at  first  little  trodden ,  after  a  few 
paces  joins  a  broad  track,   which  gradually  ascends  the  hillside 


3ft8    Route  48.  MUICMSLSJSE.  BlaAFotui. 

(to  the  Tight);  tke  broad)  ftony  path  aaoending  to  the  right,  10  min. 
from  the  Eekle,  then  leads  to  the  lake  in  ^4  hour. 

From  the  Eckle  we  may  reach  AUerheiligen  in  4  hrs.  by  following  the 
boundary-fftones  towardf  the  8.E.,  paaslng  the  picturesque,  iaolated  Wilde 
See  and  Ruhsteim  (p.  367),  and  then  descending  to  the  S.W.  by  the  Jfel- 
kereikopf. 

The  second  of  the  above  paths  leads  to  the  (1  hr.)*HomiigriAd6 
(3825  ft.),  the  massive  tower  on  the  summit  of  which,  22  ft.  in 
height,  may  be  ascended  by  a  ladder  (adjacent  is  a  refuge-hut). 
The  bare  and  marshy  summit  commands  a  very  extensive  view, 
which  however  is  frequently  shrouded  in  mist :  to  the  E.  the  Swa- 
bian  Alb,  the  Achalm  at  Reutlingen ,  the  Rossberg  and  Hohenzol- 
lern,  the  Hohentwiel,  and  other  peaks  of  the  Hohgau ;  S.  the  heights 
of  the  Black  Forest,  the  Feldberg,  Belchen,  Blauen,  and  beyond 
them  even  the  Alps  (comp.  p.  380);  S.W.  the  Kaiserstuhl  (p.  344) 
and  Vosges;  W.  the  vast  plain  of  the  Rhine;  nearly  opposite  rises 
the  spire  of  Strassburg,  and  on  a  mountain  in  the  foreground  the 
extensive  ruins  of  the  Briglttenschloss  (p.  342) ;  N.  the  mountains 
around  Baden,  the  Yburg  and  the  Mercurlusberg  (p.  340). 

From  the  Hornisgrinde  a  stony  path,  bearing  to  the  right, 
descends  in  windings  to  the  S.E.,  and  after  1/2  hr.  reaches  the 
Knxnmelsee  (3385  ft.),  a  gloomy  little  lake,  surrounded  by  pine-clad 
mountains,  and  popularly  believed  to  be  inhabited  by  water-sprites. 
By  the  Seebachy  the  brook  issuing  from  the  lake  on  the  S.,  is  a  hut 
which  affords  shelter  in  bad  weather  (refreshments  in  summer). 

From  the  Mummelsee  we  descend  by  a  winding  footpath  to  the 
(20-25  min.)  road  from  the  Eckle,  which  we  follow  to  the  right  to 
the  (25  min.)  Baiersbronn  and  Ruhstein  road  (p.  357),  reaching  it 
at  the  inn  Zum  Wolfsbrunnen.  About  1  Vi^*  farther  on  we  come  to 
Hinter-Seebacli  (^Zum  Adler,  D.  1  m.  80 pf.).  A  way-post  opposite 
the  *Adler'  indicates  a  path  with  steps  leading  to  (2  hrs.)  AUerhei- 
ligen ;  and  others  are  placed  at  doubtful  points.  On  reaching  the 
summit,  after  a  stiff  climb  of  ^^/4  hr.,  we  keep  to  the  right.  The  road 
at  first  traverses  extensive  tracts  of  debris,  commanding  a  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  and  then  descends  through  forest. 

The  village  of  Vorder-Beebaeh  (lower  part  1174  ft.,  upper 
1623  ft.;  Krone;  HiraeK)  lies  on  the  high-road,  IV2M.  beyond 
Hinter- Seebach ,  and  extends  along  the  road  for  a  considerable 
distance.  Then  (^4  hr.)  HagenbrUcke  (to  the  Edelfrauengrab,  see 
below),  and  (V4  hr.)  Otienhofen, 

b.  AUerheiligon  and  Bftttenttoin  Waterfalls. 

Oimp.  Map,  p.  859* 

Two  Days.  Ist  From  Achem  to  GrieOnush,  24  M.,  better  by  carriage; 
2ad.  To  Wolfach^  24  M.  —  Or  the  traveller  may  accompliah  this  tour 
in  one  day  as  follows :  From  Achem  to  OttenhOfen  by  carriage  in  IS/4  hr. 
(diligence  at  9  a.m.);  walk  to  AlUrheiUgen  IV4  hr.,  from  the  inn  to  the 
foot  of  the  falls  Vs  ^r. ;  then  drive  to  Griesbaeh  2V«  hrs.  $  walk  over  the 


Black  Fwtfi,  ALLERHBILIOEN.  48.  Route,    359 

Holswalder  Hdhe  to  RippoMtau  2  hn.  \  drive  (omnibus  twice  daily)  to 
WolfBch  2V4  hours. 

From  Oppenau  (p.  361)  AUerheiligen  is  reached  in  3  hours. 

Achem  (p.  342)  is  the  starting-point  for  this  tour.  The  road  to 
AUerheiligen  leads  through  the  Kappeler  Thai ,  a  pleasant ,  green 
dale  watered  by  the  Acher  (to  the  left  on  the  hill,  the  Brigitten- 
ictdoss,  p.  342),  past  the  villages  of  (1/2  M.)  Oberachem  and  (3  M.) 
Kappelfodeck  (*Ochs ;  Linde),  the  latter  of  which  is  commanded  by 
the  chlteau  of  Rodeck,  dating  as  far  back  as  the  8th  cent.,  and  re- 
cently altered  and  restored  (for  adm.  to  the  fine  grounds,  apply  to 
the  gardener"). 

From  Kappelbodboe  to  Allbrhbiligbk  ,  13  M.  The  aomewhat  fati- 
guing route  pngses  below  the  chateau  of  Bodeck,  and  ascends  rapidly 
through  pine-wood,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Acherthal  on  the  one  side 
and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  with  Strassburg  and  the  Vosges,  on  the 
other.  Farther  on  (3  M.)  it  skirts  the  rnck«  of  the  Btlrstenstein^  6  M.  beyond 
which  it  Joins  the  AllerheiUgensteig  which  begins  at  Oberkirch,  and  runs 
along  the  saddle  past  the  Sohlherg  (p.  360)  to  AUerheiligen  (see  below). 

The  road  then  ascends  by  the  course  of  the  Achtr  to  (3  M.)  — 

6V2  M.  (from  Achem)  OttenlidfeiL  (1020  ft. ;  *Unde;  *Pfiug, 
D.2m. ;  WagevC^  a  prettily-situated  village,  forming  suitable  head- 
quarters for  a  number  of  pleasant  excursions. 

From  OttenhOfen  to  Allekheiligen  by  the  Edelfrauengrah  and 
the  Blochereck  (2V4  hrs.) ,  a  very  attractive  walk.  In  front  of  the  church 
turn  to  the  left,  then  follow  the  footpath  immediately  to  the  right,  and 
the  road  to  the  left  higher  up,  which  diverges  from  the  road  to  AUer- 
heiligen at  a  point  about  300  yAs.  beyond  the  church.  After  10  min.  follow 
the  middle  road  in  a  straight  direction,  traverse  the  pretty  Oottschl&gihaly 
cross  the  brook  several  times,  and  finally  ascend  by  steps  to  the  (20  min.) 
Edelfrauengrah  (*grave  of  the  noble  lady*) ,  a  very  insignificant  grotto  to 
which  a  romantic  legend  attaches.  The  environs  are  very  picturesque, 
especially  the  road  ascending  beyond  this  point  past  the  numerous  pretty 
cascades.  Then  (1  hr.)  Blochereck^  beyond  which  the  wood  is  traversed, 
and  the  new  road  soon  reached  (see  below);  'A  hr.,  Alter heiligen.  — 
Travellers  coming  from  Seebach  (see  p.  3.58)  may  diverge  to  the  left  at  the 
HagenhrUche^  beyond  the  Edelfrauengrah,  »/<  M.  before  reaching  Ottenhofen. 

The  carriage-road  from  Ottenhofen  to  Allerheiligen  ascends  the 
VnUrwasset-Tkal  towards  the  S.  to  the  (2V4  M.)  Erhprim  Jnn, 
Here  the  new  road  describes  a  wide  curve  In  the  valley  towards 
the  left,  while  the  old  road  ascends  the  steep  slope  on  the  right,  on 
the  summit  of  which  the  roads  again  unite.  Fine  retrospective 
views  from  the  new  road;  IY2  M.  from  theNeuhaus  a  way -post 
indicates  the  way  to  the  Edelfrauengrah  by  BWchereck  (see  above). 

From  the  top  of  the  hill  (from  which  a  short-cut  descends  by 
steps  to  the  right)  the  road  descends  in  windings  to  (2Y4M.)  •AUer- 
heiligen (1968ft.),  the  first  glimpse  of  which  is  very  striking.  The 
ruins  of  the  Prtemonstratensian  abbey,  founded  by  the  Duchess 
Uta  of  Schauenburg  in  1196,  secularised  in  1802,  and  partly  de- 
stroyed by  lightning  In  1803,  occupy  almost  the  entire  breadth  of 
the  wooded  dale.  The  Inn  is  often  full  (charges  rather  high,  *pens.' 
6-10  m.) ;  the  Oaatkof  %um  Wasserfall,  1/2  M.  from  the  lower  end 
of  the  Falls,  on  the  road  to  Oppenau,  belongs  to  the  same  landlord. 

Immediately  below  the  monastery  is  a  rugged  cleft  in  the  rocks, 


360    aouU48.  OBJCRIUBOU.  Blaek  FofCit. 

formed  by  an  eArtkquake,  thxough  which  the  Oriindmbaeh  is 
precipitated  into  the  Talley  beneath  over  blocks  of  granite  in 
seven  falls,  called  the  'Sleben  Butten*  (seven  cauldrons),  or  ^Bai^ 
tenstein  Palli,  some  of  them  50  ft.  in  height.  A  good  path,  cut 
through  the  rock  at  places,  descends  by  the  falls  to  the  (20  min .) 
bottom  of  the  valley,  300  ft.  below.  From  the  second  'Rondel',  or 
platform,  the  double  fall  is  best  surveyed.  The  waterfalls,  the 
picturesque  accessories  of  which  form  their  chief  attraction ,  are 
seen  to  most  advantage  in  ascending  from  the  valley  below.  The 
best  way  of  approaching  them  is,  accordingly,  to  take  the  footpath 
to  the  'Louisenruhe,  Engelskanzel,  and  Teufelsstein*,  which  di- 
verges to  the  right  of  the  barn,  opposite  the  new  Logiihaus,  and 
leads  throngh  wood  to  the  (Y2  ^'0  ^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^'^^^b  >  ^^^^ 
ascend  the  path  to  the  (^2  kr.)  Inn. 

Fbom  ALLaauBiLioRK  TO  B1PFOLD8AD  direct  (5  hrs.)  over  the  Kniebia 
(guide  unnecessary,  way -posts  everywhere).  Tbe  route  diverges  to  the 
left  at  a  finger-post  (*Zur  ZufluchC)  on  the  wfty  to  the  falls,  a  few  yards 
from  the  inn,  and  runs  through  wood  for  the  first  hour^  farther  on,  an  ex- 
tensive prospect  is  eigoyed,  embracing  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  Strassburg, 
and  the  Vosges  Kts. ;  2i/s  hrs.  Refuge  (see  below)  by  the  Schwedensohanze ; 
1  hr.  Kniebis;  IVs  hr.  Rtppoldwu  (p.  366).  A  shorter  route  thither  leads 
from  the  Alexander$ehanxe :  follow  the  Oriesbach  road  for  Vt  M.,  then  enter 
the  wood  to  the  left;  after  20  min.  more,  where  the  path  divides,  select  that 
descending  rapidly  to  the  right 

Fbom  Allbbheilioen  to  Ofpskad,  2Vt  hours.  The  carriage-road  affords 
the  shortest  and  best  route.  As  above  mentioned,  it  passes  at  the  foot  of 
the  waterfalls,  crosses  a  bridge  to  the  left,  and  follows  the  bank  of  the 
LUrbwh  (as  the  Ghrundenbach  is  now  called),  high  on  the  slope  of  the 
hill.  At  the  Kreuz  Inn,  near  Oppenau,  the  Kniebis-Strasse  and  the  road 
to  (8  H.)  Antogast  (see  below)  diverge  to  the  left. 

Fbom  Allbbheilioen  to  Sulzbach  (p.  361),  l>^  hour.  We  descend  by 
the  waterfalls  to  the  road ,  which  we  ascend  for  V*  M.  to  a  stone  finger- 
post on  the  right,  indicating  the  way  over  the  Braunbtrg  to  (3  M .)  Sulzbach. 

From  Allerheiligen  to  Oberhirch  (sec  below),  across  tixe  SoMberg^  in 
3  hrs.,  a  pleasant  but  somewhat  steep  route  (numerous  finger-posts). 

c.  Benehthal  Bailway.    Kaiebit  Bftths. 

Railwat  f^om  Appenweier  to  Oppenau.  12  H.,  in  40-00  min. :  fares 
lm.90,  lm.60,  95p£: 

ATpT^enwtitr ,  see  p.  342.  The  train  ascends  the  Renchthal  to 
(2V2  M.)  ZM««nAo/«n.  —  5V2M.  Oberkireh r*I'mde,  'pension'  4m. ; 
*OcAs,  with  shady  garden,  'pens.' 4m.;  Ooldener  Adletj  good  wine; 
Sehwaner  Adler ;  beer  at  Btxtun'sJ,  situated  in  an  extremely  fertile 
district  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  at  the  entrance  to  the  narrower 
Renchthal.  About  1  M.  farther  down  the  valley,  to  the  light  of 
the  line,  is  the  boldly -situated  ruined  castle  of  FurtUneek,  About 
2V4  M.  to  the  left  of  Oberkirch  lie  the  ruins  of  Schaticnburg, 
whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained;  Von  Haberer^s  Hollhof  is  another 
good  point  of  view.  To  the  N.  of  Oberkirch  the  villages  of  (i  M.) 
Gaisbach  (Lamm)  and  (3  M.)  Ringelbach  (Salm),  known  for  their 
wine.  —  71/2  M.  Lautenbach  (Schwan,  well  spoken  of,  good  wine), 
with  an  old  church  containing  an  interesting  screen  and  stained- 


Black  Forut.  OPPENAU.  48.  Bouie,    361 

glasB  windows.  —  9  M.  Hubaeker,  station  for  Stdtbaeh,  a  small 
bath  r3/4  M.  to  tile  N. ;  ^pension'  5  m.),  with  a  saline  spring  (70<» 
Fahr.  j ;  from  Sulzhach  by  a  pictnreeque  road  vi&  the  Braunherg^ 
to  Allerheiligen,  278  hn.  (uphill),  see  above. 

12  M.  OppoJLan.  —  B»tels.  *8tahlbad,  *Po0T  or  Bnqbl,  belonging  to 
the  same  owner,  K.,  L.,  A  A.  l>/8,  D.  2,  'pens.*  4-6  m.,  B.  66  pf.;  *Goi.dkmke 
Adlbb*,  Hibbch;  Blume,  on  tbe  way  to  the  station;  Fortuna,  opposite 
the  station,  unpretending.  —  Taube,  with  mineral  baths,  iVt  M.  from 
Oppenau,  on  the  road  to  Allerheiligen  (see  below).  -^  HdTBL  ZUK  Fimkxn, 
see  below.    Kranz  Bbbwbrt,  B.  1  m.,  well  spoken  of. 

Diligenet  to  (6  M.)  Petersthal  and  (TVa  M.)  Griesbach  thrice  daily  in 
summer.    An  Omnibut  from  the  Benehtbal  Baths  meets  the  trains. 

Oppenau^  a  busy  little  town,  with  1934  iuhab.,  is  frequented 
as  a  summer-resort.    ^Kirschwasser'  is  largely  manufactured  here. 

—  A  conspicuous  belvedere  near  the  town  commands  an  excellent 
view ;  it  is  reached  in  20-25  min.  by  passing  the  N.  side  of  the 
church ,  to  the  left  of  the  'Turn-Platz',  and  after  about  350  paces 
taking  the  footpath  on  the  left,  which  at  first  ascends  in  steps. 

Close  by  the  Oppenau  station ,  the  high-road  divides,  the  right 
(S.)  branch  being  the  Renchthal  road  (see  below),  and  the  left(£.) 
arm  leading  to  the  Kniebis.     The  latter  passes  through  Oppenau. 

—  Immediately  beyond  the  town  the  road  to  (3  M.)  Aniogasi 
(1585  ft. ;  •Huber),  one  of  the  Kniebis  Baths ,  charmingly  situated 
in  the  pretty  Maisachthal,  and  known  as  early  as  the  16th  cent., 
diverges  to  the  right;  the  road  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  Aller- 
heiligen (see  above).    Footpath  to  (6  M.)  Griesbach  (see  p.  362). 

The  Kniebis  Road  ascends  the  Ro$9buhl  from  Oppenau  In 
windings  (pleasing  retrospects)  to  the  (6  M.)  Schwabenschanze 
(*Swabian  intrenchment*),  an  ancient  earth-work ;  V4  ^-  to  the  S. 
is  the  Schwedensehanse  (road  to  Baiersbronn,  see  p.  361);  near  it, 
the  inn  *Zur  Zuflueht,  About  1*/^  M.  farther  is  the  grass-grown 
Alexanderachanze  (Inn),  on  the  summit  of  the  Kniebis  (3192  ft.), 
where  the  Renchthal  road  joins  ours  (see  below).  At  the  inn  Zum 
Lamm,  1  i/4  M.  farther,  another  road  diverges,  leading  to  Rippoldsau 
(p.  B65)  by  the  E.  side  of  the  Holzwalder  Hohe.  The  Kniebis  road 
then  leads  by  the  Wurtemberg  village  of  Kniebis  (•Ochs)  along  the 
left  bank  of  the  Forbachy  which  rises  in  the  vicinity,  to  (6^/4  M.) 
Freudenstadt  (p.  356).       

The  road  continuing  to  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Bench  (diligence 
thrice  daily)  passes  through  a  small  part  only  of  Oppenau,  and  leads 
southwards  to  the  ^Kniebis  Baths'  of  Freiersbach,  Petersthal,  and 
Griesbaeh.  Neax  (IVs  M.)  Ibaeh  is  the  picturesquely  -  situated 
Oaslhaud  turn  Finkm  ('pension'). 

From  0^/4  M.)  LOckerherg  (^Pflug)  a  gently-ascending  road,  affording 
various  fine  views,  leads  through  the  pleasant  valley  and  across  the 
ffermersberg  to  (4V«  M.)  OberTMrmerthach  f Sonne  j  Drei  Schweinskiipfe), 
mederharmertbaeh  (*Adler),  and  (iOi/a  M.)  Zell  (p.  363). 

The  next  place  in  the  Renchthal  is  (21/4  M.  from  Locherberg) 
Bad  Freiersbaeh  (1260  ft. ;  *Meyer'8  HoUl,  with  baths ,  D.  2  m. 


362    BouUdd,  PETERSTHAL.  Blads  Fort$t. 

10  pt.y,  with  fitilpliareoas  springs,  sitvated  in  a  pretty  dale,  enclosed 
by  lofty  bills.  (The  village  of  FreUr^back  is  li/2  M.  distant,  in  the 
lateral  valley  of  Petersthal.)  Then  (3/4  M.)  ~ 

5  M.  (from  Oppenau^  PetonttuJ.  >-  Hotels.  In  tbe  TillsKe:  ^Bak; 
Baoisohbb  Hop,  D.  1  m.  70  pf.i  Hibscu;  'Svahlbad,  with  batbs.  Out- 
nide  tbe  village:  Mullbb's  Hotbl  and  Batiib,  often  crowded,  bath  1  m., 
towels  extra.    Nnmerons  private  apartments. 

Peterathal  (1320  ft.l,  tbe  most  important  of  these  small  watering- 
places,  ocrupies  a  sheltered  situation,  embellished  with  well-kept 
grounds.  Tbe  four  springs  contain  iron  and  carbonic-acid  gas.  The 
baths,  which  were  known  in  the  16th  cent,  are  frequented  by  abont 
1400  patients  annually. 

A  beantifal  route  leads  hence  to  the  B.  through  the  FreUrUhal  into 
the  Bchaphachihal  (p.  361).  We  take  the  road  to  the  left  at  the  Hdtel 
Kum  Baren  in  Petersthal.  and  reach  the  top  of  the  bill  in  iVi  hour. 
Pedestrians  may  reduce  the  distance  by  crossing  the  stream  to  the  right 
at  a  point  Vs  hr.  from  Petersthal,  and  ascending  a  steep  path  through 
forest  in  an  easterly  direction.  A  few  paces  farther  on  we  take  the 
narrower  path  to  the  right.  In  8  min.  it  passes  obliquely  across  the 
carriage-road,  which  it  rejoins  in  8  min.  more.  A  way-post  indicating 
the  road  to  Schapbach  stands  on  the  road -side  150  paces  farther  on. 
After  reaching  the  culminating  point  we  descend  through  the  picturesque 
Wildtehaphachthal  to  (iVs  hr.)  Schapbach  (p.  364). 

A  pleasant  footpath  leads  from  Peternthal  to  Antogatt  in  3  hrs., 
passing  the  hamlet  of  Ddttelbaeh  on  tiie  road-side ;  at  the  telegraph-post 
numbered  458  we  ascend  through  the  covered  gateway. 

The  Renchthal  now  turns  to  the  N.E.    In  8/4  hr.  we  reach  — 

7V2  M.  (from  Oppenau")  Oriesbaoh  (1626  ft. ;  several  Curhauser; 
AdUr\  possessing  a  chalybeate  spring,  which  has  been  highly  valued 
for  200  years.   Most  of  the  patients  (.1100  in  number)  are  ladies. 

The  road  through  the  Renchthal  (diligence  once  daily)  now 
ascends  in  windings  to  the  Kniebis,  the  summit  of  which  is  reached 
at  the  (1  Y2)^^-^'^6^&nderschanze.  Hence  to  Rippoldaau  or  FVeuden- 
stadt^  see  p.  361. 

Footpath  fbom  Gbiksbach  to  Rippoldsau.  2  hours.  We  follow  the 
road  just  named  for  */i  M.  from  the  Griesbach  Baths  and  quit  it  at  a  point 
where  it  bends  sharply  to  the  left,  keeping  straight  on  for  a  few  pacen 
farther  and  then  by  a  stone  finger-poet  taking  the  broad  track  provided 
with  benches  which  leads  to  the  left  through  the  wood.  The  path  to 
the  Teufelskanzel  diverges  to  the  right  V2  br.  farther  on.  About  6  min. 
below  the  top  is  the  ^Sophlen-Rnhe\  affording  a  fine  retrosoect  of  the 
Griesbach  Valley.  The  highest  part  of  the  route  is  called  the  HolswAldar 
Hbhe  (3005  ft.),  where  the  path  for  several  hundred  paces  is  nearly  level. 
Tt  then  descends  gradually  in  long  windings,  passing  after  a  few  paces  a 
flight  of  steps  on  the  left,  used  for  the  timber-traffic,  to  the  (Vi  hr.)  Knie- 
bis Koad  (p.  361),  which  leads  us  to  (1  M.)  Xippoldsau  (p.  366). 

d.  From  Offenbnrg  to  Coiuitaneo.    Kisuigthal.    Bippoldiaii. 

Comp.  the  Maps^  pp.  963  and  370. 

113  M.  Railwat  in  5-5V2  brs.  (fares  14  m.  40,  9  m.  60,  6  m.  20  pf  \  by 
express  16  m.  40,  11  m.  65  pf. ;  'Aussichtewagen',  see  below). 

The  *Schwarzwald  Railway,  opened  in  1873,  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  in  Germany,  both  in  point  of  scenery  and  construction.  The 
most  interesting  part  is  that  between  Hausach  and  Villingen  (pp.  363-367). 
Carriages  constructed  so  as  to  command  a  view  In  all  directions  C<^«i- 


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JBiaek  ForeH.  HAUSAGH.  48.  Route.    363 

eichtswagen*)  »re  Attached  to  the  ezprese-trains  between  Offenburg  and 
Singen,  and  may  be  used  by  eecond-claas  passengers  on  payment  of  1  m. 
extra;  tickets  are  obtainable  at  Offenburg,  Hausacb,  Trlberg,  Villingen, 
and  Singen,  or  from  the  guard  of  the  train.  The  line  attracts  numerous 
travellers,  and  the  inns  at  Hausach,  Homberg,  Triberg,  and  other  pietures- 
que  points  are  often  full. 

Offenburg^  see  p.  343.  —  The  line  trayenes  the  populous  and 
fertile  Klnzlgthal,  a  valley  enclosed  by  gently-sloping  mountains. 
3  M.  Otiefiberg  (Krone),  above  which,  on  a  vine-clad  hill,  rises  the 
cb&teau  of  *Ort€nhergy  occupying  the  site  of  an  ancient  stronghold 
destroyed  by  Marshal  Crrfqul  in  1668.  The  grounds  of  the  chateau 
are  prettily  laid  out,  and  the  interior  is  tastefully  fitted  up. 

6V4M.  Gengenbaoh (580ft.;  AdUr;  5onn<!),  with 2542 inhab., 
an  independent  town  down  to  the  Peace  of  Lunrfville,  still  exhibits 
traces  of  its  former  importance  in  its  walls,  gates,  and  towers, 
although  most  of  the  buildings  have  been  erected  since  the  de- 
struction of  the  town,  by  the  French  in  1689.  The  handsome  old 
Benedictine  Abbey ^  to  which  the  town  owes  its  origin,  was  also 
formerly  independent  of  all  external  jurisdiction. 

10  M.  Schonherg.  11 1/4  M.  Biberach  (Krone;  Sonne),  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Harmersbaeh.  On  the  latter,  2^2  M.  distant,  lies  the 
thriving  village  of  Zell  (Hirsch ;  Lowe) ;  the  valley  there  divides 
into  the  Unterharmersbachihal  and  the  Nordraehthal,  through  both 
of  which  are  roads  leading  to  the  Renchthal  (p.  361). 

Fbom  Bibbbaoh  to  Lahb  (9  M.)  a  road  leads  by  BchOnbtrg ,  a  solitary 
inn,  whence  it  descends  through  the  Schutterthal  by  Jieichenbath  and  Kuh- 
bach.  About  41/2  H.  to  the  W.  of  Biberach,  and  2  M.  to  the  V.  of  the  Schon- 
berg  inn  (see  above),  rises  a  lofty  and  precipitous  rock,  crowned  with 
the  ruins  of  Hohengeroldaeek ,  an  extensive  castle  destroyed  by  Marshal 
Cr^qui  in  1697,  and  commanding  a  complete  ^Survey  of  the  Kinzigthal,  the 
Schutterthal,  and  the  plain  of  the  Rhine.    Lahr^  see  p.  343. 

Before  (141/2  M.)  Steinaeh  is  reached ,  the  line  crosses  the 
Kinzig.  17  M.  Haslach  (728  ft. ;  Furstehberger  Hof;  Kreuz),  the 
chief  town  of  the  district ,  formerly  in  the  principality  of  Ffirsten- 
berg ,  was  destroyed  by  the  French  on  their  retreat  after  the  battle 
of  Hoohst&dt.  In  the  doorway  of  the  Church,  which  escaped  destruc- 
tion, is  a  Romanesque  relief  of  the  12th  century. 

The  road  leading  hence  to  the  8.  by  Bnf$teiten  to  (9  M.)  Elgaeh  (p. 
370)  traverses  beautiful  scenery ;  on  the  left,  halfway,  rise  the  insignificant 
ruins  of  the  Heidburg. 

211/4  M.  Hauaoh  (783  ft.;  Bahnhofahotel ;  Hirseh;  Krone; 
Enget)  is  a  small  town  with  1465  inhab.,  commanded  by  the  ruins 
of  an  old  castle  of  the  princes  of  Furstenberg,  destroyed  in  1643. 


From  Hausach  to  Ripfoldsau  ,  16^/4  M.  Railway  to  (3^4  M.) 
Wolfach  in  1/4  '^r.  (fares  40,  30,  20  pf.) ;  thence  diligence  and 
omnibus  twice  daily  in  2^/4  hours.  —  The  train  ascends  the  Kin- 
zigthal.   I8/4  M.  Kimbach. 

31/4  M.  WoUaoh.  —  Hotels.  Salm,  *pen9.'  4V«-5  m.;  Kbone.  — 
Adlbb,  Sonnb,  Zahbikobb,  these  three  good  second-class  houses.  >- 
*KixrBKNADBLBAD,  with  baths  of  various  kinds,  pens.  4  m. 


364    MouUda.  WOLFACH.  Blade  Forest. 

Wolfach  (869  ft.>  «n  ancient  town  with  1891  inhab.  and  a 
handsome  'Amtahaus^  formerly  a  chUeau ,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
town ,  ia  situated  between  abrupt  mountains  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Wolfbaeh  and  the  Kintig, 

A  railway  through  the  Kinzigthal,  which  higher  np  ia  ealled  the  Vor- 
der€  Lehnggricht^  is  bow  in  progress;  it  will  lead  to  Schiltaoh.  Alpirsbach, 
and  Freadenstadt.  The  road  aneends  on  the  right  bank  or  the  Kinzig, 
pasHing  the  picturesque  chapel  of  St.  Jakob,  on  the  slope  to  the  right.  At 
(3  M.)  ffalbmeil  (Znm  En  gel;  Ldwe)  It  crosses  to  the  left  bank.  Then 
(6  M.)  Behiltaek  (1118  ft.  \  *  Krone;  Ochi),  an  old  town  sitnated  at  the  union 
of  the  Schiltach  and  the  Kinaig,  with  a  modern  church,  and  a  ruined  castle 
on  a  hill.  A  good  road  leads  through  the  Schiltachthal  CHintere  Lehn- 
geriehV)^  which  here  opens  on  the  8.,  to  ((t^/a  M.)  Sehramberg  (see  below ; 
IV/tU.  from  Wolfach).  —  8M.  achenkensell  (Somia;  Ooka;  Drel  Xonige), 
the  next  village  in  the  Kinzigthal,  carries  on  an  extensive  traffic  in  tim- 
ber. An  arm  of  the  Kinsig  here  descends  from  the  N.,  from  the  Reinerzau, 
a  pietaresque  valley,  through  which  a  road  leads  to  VomUhal  (*Linde), 
Bemeck  (Trauhe).  and  (13Vt  M .)  Freudtnttadt  (p.  366).  The  laflt  Tillage  in 
the  Kinsigthal  is  (4V«  M. ;  I2V2H.  from  Wolfach)  Alpirsbach  CLdwt;  Schwan)^ 
which  carries  on  a  considerable  traffic  in  timber  and  straw-hats.  The 
church,  a  Romanesque  building  of  the  12ih  cent.,  contains  the  tombs  of 
some  members  of  the  Hohensollem  family  (14-16ih  cent.);  in  the  porch 
the  tusk  of  a  mammoth  has  hung  from  time  immemorial.  High-road 
hence  tibrnugh  the  EMenbogenthal  to  (12  M.)  Freudenstadt ;  another  to 
Flvorn  and  (lO^/t  M.)  Obemdcrf  on  the  Upper  ITeckar  railway  (comp.  Bae- 
deker^t  8.  Qermanif), 

The  road  to  Rippoldsau  quits  the  Kinzigthal  and  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Wolfbaehy  which  it  crosses  several  times.  After  about 
1^/2  M.  it  reaches  the  church  of  the  scattered  village  of  Oherwolfach 
(938  ft. ;  Zur  Linde). 

At  the  entrance  to  (6  M.)  Sohapbaoh  (*0eh8,  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  village ;  AdUr  and  Sonne^  farther  up)  the  Wildschaphaehthalf 
through  which  leads  the  road  to  Petersthal  (p.  362),  opens  to  the 
left.  Schapbach  is  another  scattered  village,  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  which  still  wear  their  picturesque  old  costume  (see  below). 
The  curiously^constructed  houses  have  stabling  on  the  ground-floor, 
the  dwelling-rooms  above,  and  a  hay-loft  under  the  roof. 

Near  the  (2V4  M.)  Seehack  Inn  the  Seehach,  formed  by  the 
discharge  of  the  sequestered  Olaswaldace,  a  lake  situated  on  a  hill 
4  M.  from  the  road ,  emerges  from  a  wild  side-valley  on  the  left. 
About  1  M.  farther  huge  granite  rocks  rise  to  the  right  of  the  road; 
near  them  is  the  waterfall  of  the  Burbach^  only  visible  after  rain. 
We  next  reach  (8/4  M.)  the  — 

Klosterle  (♦Zum  Erbprinzen),  formerly  a  Benedictine  priory, 
with  a  church  with  two  towers ,  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  by  the 
Benedictines  of  St.  Georgen.  It  lies  ^^4  M.  below  Rippoldsau, 
visitors  to  the  baths  of  which  often  lodge  here. 

Fbou  the  Kl56tbblb  to  Fssudenstadt,  8'/tH.,  a  new  road  has  been 
constructed,  which  passes  JSeichenbach ^  ascends  the  Sc/noabcmh  2%al,  and 
traverses  the  Pfaffenwald  to  Oberzwieselberg  (2788  ft. ;  Jagerruhe).  Thence 
it  proceeds  in  wide  curves,  round  the  valley  of  the  Kleine  Kinzig^  to  join 
the  road  from  Schdmberg^  which  it  follows  to  the  left  to  Freudetutadt 
(p.  356).  —  There  is  also  a  pleasant  footpath  through  the  woods.  Passing 
the  church  we  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  brook,  and  take  the  broad 


Black  Foreti.  HORNBBRG.  48.  RouU,    365 

ftnd  shady  foreft^psth  to  the  rigbt  (stone  finger-pcNit).  At  Zwiestlbaeh  the 
puth  forks,  the  left  arm  leading  to  Freuden$tadi  {$.  366),  the  right  to 
JSchenkenzell  (see  above). 

Sippoldsau  (1856  ft. :  *Goringer^8  Hotel  and  Bath-Tiouse^  often 
full,  R.  from  2,  B.  1,  D.  3,  bath  li/a  m. ;  visitors'  tax  50  pf.),  a  vil- 
lage with  727  inhab.,  lies  at  the  S.  base  of  the  Kniebis  (p.  361), 
in  a  very  narrow  part  of  the  Wolfthal.  It  is  the  most  frequented 
and  best-organised,  but  also  the  most  expensive  of  the  Kniebis 
Baths  (1500  visitors  annually).  The  water  of  the  five  springs,  con- 
taining iron,  earthy  ingredients,  and  Glaubei^s  salts,  is  considered 
beneficial  in  cases  of  bowel-complaint.  It  is  exported  in  bottles 
(800,000  annually),  and  the  salt  is  also  sold  under  the  name  of 
'Kippoldsau  salts*.    The  environs  afford  many  pleasant  walks. 

Aboat  iVt  M.  above  Rippoldsau  lies  Holzwald  (Holzwdldir  ffdhe). 
Th«BC«  across  the  HolBwiilder  H6he  to  Otiesbaeh^  see  p.  363 ;  across  the 
Kniebis  to  Oppenau,  see  p.  361. 

The  railway  leaves  the  Kinzigthal  above  Hausach,  turns  to 
the  right  at  Am  Thurm,  and  ascends  the  picturesque  and  fertile 
TAlley  of  the  Qutaeh,  •—  23  H.  Cfutcmh  (920  ft. ;  Lowe). 

27  M.  HoznbeoFg  (1265  ft. ;  *Bart  'pens.'  4-5  m. ;  *Fo8i ;  BobsU  ; 
8ehlo9sh6Ul  and  Fcn$ion  ^  high  above  the  town ,  near  the  rained 
chlteau),  an  old  town  of  2000  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque spots  in  the  Black  Forest  and  attracts  numerous  summer  visi- 
tors. There  is  a  War  Monument  near  the  church.  The  costume  of 
the  peasantry  here  is  interesting.  The  women  wear  black  petticoats, 
short- waisted  green  bodices,  and  broad-brimmed  straw-hals  or  black 
caps  with  projecting  flaps  at  the  sides.  The  hats  of  the  married 
women  are  adorned  with  black  rosettes,  and  those  of  the  girls  with 
red.  The  men  wear  black  coats  with  a  red  lining.  The  picturesque 
ch&teau,  situated  on  a  preoipitous  hill,  was  taken  in  1703  by  Mar-* 
shal  Villars,  but  soon  recovered  by  the  peasantry. 

From  Hoknbbbo  to.Elzagh,  13V2  M.  About  lya  M.  below  Homberg 
our  road  diverges  to  the  W.  from  the  Hausach  road.  Near  Landtocuter  it 
reaches  the  Preehthat^  in  which  it  then  descends.    EUaeh^  see  p.  370. 

Frox  Hobnbbbo  to  Schbambbro,  a  chaxming  walk  of  lOVt  M. 
through  the  Schffnachthaly  by  LauUrbcuA.  Bohramberg  CPosti  ffirsch)^  a 
busy  little  town,  prettily  situated  on  the  Schiltachj  is  commanded  by  the 
lofty  ruins  of  the  Nipptnburg.  Picturesque  road  thence  to  (6  H.)  SehHtach 
{$.  864).  The  return  •route  to  Hombei«  maybe  made  by  the  ''B4m6eky  a 
romantic  rocky  valley,  and  (6  M.)  Thenntnbrann  (Krone);  thence  passing 
above  Oenbaeh  to  the  Eeiehenbachtkal  ^  through  which  a  road  descends  tu 
(6  M.)  Hornberg. 

The  most  curious  part  of  the  line  is  between  Homberg  and 
(18  M.)  St.  Georgen.  For  some  distance  the  railway  runs  parallel 
with  the  road,  which ,  like  the  line  itself,  is  in  many  places  hewn 
in  the  rock,  and  then  ascends  the  narrow  wooded  Gutachthal. 
Above  the  village  of  Niederwasser  (1380  ft.),  which  we  observe  to 
the  right,  is  the  ^Niederwasser  Kehrtunnel',  where  the  first  great 
curve  begins.  Tunnels  (of  which  there  are  26  between  Hornberg 
and  St.  Georgen),  viaducts,  and  bridges  follow  in  rapid  succession. 


366    BouUlS.  TRIBEBO.  BlaOt  FcftH. 

The  gradient  varies  from  1 :  58  to  1 :  50.  —  The  road  from  Homberg 
to  Tribeig  is  yery  interesting  for  pedestrians,  and  affords  good  yiews 
of  the  remarliable  structure  of  the  railway. 

35V2  M.  Triberg.  —  The  sUtion  (2022  ft.)  lies  close  to  the  'Kreus- 
briicke',  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  from  St.  Oeorgen  und  Furtwangen, 
and  about  Vt  M.  from  the  town  (2246  ft.),  to  which  omnibuses  run. 
Porter,  for  luggage  under  fiftlbs,,  60  pf .  ^  to  the  Schwarswald  and  BeJlevue 
botele  60  pf.  —  From  the  station  to  the  market-place  >/«  H.  ^  thence  to  the 
Falls  10-16  min.  more ;  so  that  the  walk  from  the  station  to  the  Falls  and 
back  takes  1Vy-2  hours.  Visitors  who  desire  to  spend  at  Triberg  only  the 
interval  between  two  trains  should  make  a  point  of  yisiting  the  waterfall 
before  acceding  to  the  urgent  advice  of  the  hotel-keepers  to  dine. 

Hotels.  *8cHWARZWALD,  in  a  beautiful  situation,  Y4  M.  from  the  Falls, 
with  yiew  of  the  vaDey,  often  full  in  summer,  table-d  hdte  at  1  p.m.  3,  at 
6  p.m.  4  m.,  B.  i  m.,  B.  2i/«m.,  A.  60  pf.;  *Ldws,  in  the  town,  also  firet- 
class,  R.  from  IVtm.^  *Och«,  R.  2  m.,  B.  Im.;  Bbllbvux,  high  up,  with 
view^  *SoNNB;  Enokl,  Aplbk,  Lilib,  RCsslb,  all  unpretending.  In  mid- 
summer the  hotels  are  sometimes  uncomfortably  crowded. 

Baths  and  Rastaurant  at  Sehw^r'i  opposite  the  Hotel  zum  Ochs,  to 
the  right  of  the  main  street. 

■Bflisli  OkVTflih  Benriee  in  nimmer  at  the  Sehwarzwald  Hotel. 

In  summer  the  Falls  are  illumtnated  seyeral  times  a  week. 

Trihergy  which  was  re-built  after  the  great  fire  of  1826,  lies  in 
the  heart  of  the  Black  Forest,  and  is  one  of  the  piinoipa]  centres  of 
the  trade  in  docks,  numerous  specimens  of  which  may  be  seen  in 
the  InduBtrial  ExhibiUon  (adm.  50  pf.).   Pop.  2462. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  stands  a  finger-post,  the  left  arm 
of  which  indicates  the  way  to  the  waterfall ,  past  the  Sehwarzwald 
Hotel,  while  the  right  arm  points  across  the  bridge  to  the  Industrial 
Exhibition.  Beyond  the  Sehwarzwald  Hotel  we  take  the  lower 
path  to  the  right,  and  in  5  min.  reach  a  projecting  rock,  firom  which 
the  best  general  yiew  is  obtained.  The  *Watbbfall,  formed  by 
the  Fcdihaeh,  is  the  finest  in  W.  Germany.  The  stream,  which  is 
here  of  considerable  yolnme,  is  precipitated  from  a  height  of  426  ft., 
and  diyided  into  seyen  distinct  leaps  by  huge  blocks  of  granite.  The 
cascade,  like  the  fall  of  the  Qiessbach  in  Switzerland,  is  pictur- 
esquely framed  by  dark  pines.  The  best  points  are  reached  by 
good  paths.  A  pleasant  footpath  ascends  on  the  right  bank,  with 
seyeral  fine  points  of  yiew.  Yisitors  who  are  pressed  for  time 
need  not  go  beyond  the  (10  min.)  bridge.  In  20-25  min.  more, 
aboye  the  falls,  and  close  to  the  Inm  Zum  Wasserfallj  we  reach 
the  road  to  Schdnwald  and  Furtwangen  (p.  369),  by  which  we 
return. 

The  road  from  Triberg  to  Schonaeh,  from  which  the  Furtwangen  road 
diverges  to  the  left  by  the  Wall/ahrtskirche  (p.  969),  a  few  hundred  paces 
above  Triberg,  ascends  the  Unterthal  to  the  N.W.  From  (3  M.)  8cho- 
naoh  (2910  ft. ;  Lamm)  we  may  either  continue  to  follow  the  road  to  the 
K.W.,  and  pass  through  the  Oberlhal  into  the  PreeJUhal  (p.  366),  or.  turn- 
ing to  the  left  on  leaving  Schonach,  and  passing  the  (3  M.)  Elzhojy  pro- 
ceed by  a  footpath  across  the  Rohrhardt$herg  and  through  the  Ytiehthal 
to  Bltach  (p.  870),  about  10  M .  from  Schonach. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Gutach,  and  in  the  great  'Triberger 
Kehrtunner   turns  direct  to  the  N.,  towards  the  top  of  the  hill. 


Black  Fbrest,  YILLINOEN.  48.  RouU.     367 

Seteial  tunnels  and  viaducts.  For  some  distance  we  obseiTe  to  the 
left  below  us  the  portion  of  the  line  which  we  traTetsed  before 
leaching  Triberg.  The  train  turns  to  the  S. ,  passing  through 
tunnels  and  oyer  viaducts.  Beyond  (40  M.)  Nustbach  It  again  turns 
to  the  £.  Among  the  next  tunnels  is  one  1852  yds.  in  length,  which 
penetrates  the  hill  of  (43  M.)  Sommerau  (2730  ft.),  the  watershed 
between  the  Rhine  and  the  Danube.  (Many  passengers  alight  here, 
and  travel  back  direct ;  behind  the  station  is  a  restaurant.) 

45  M.  St.  eeorgen  (2660  ft.;  Adter,  UirscK),  a  busy  clock- 
manufacturing  place,  is  prettily  situated  on  a  height  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Brigack,  a  little  above  the  station.  The  old  Benedictine 
abbey,  founded  at  the  end  of  the  ilth  cent.,  was  suppressed  in 
1806.  The  Brigach,  which  after  a  course  ef  21  M.  unites  with 
the  Brege  at  Donaueschingen  and  forms  the  Danube  (see  p.  368), 
rises  about  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  St.  Georgen. 

The  line  now  traverses  the  plateau,  not  far  from  the  Brigach. 
—  47^2  M.  FeteneU  (Krone),  and  Konigafeld,  the  latter  a  Mora- 
vian settlement  with  a  school.  —  51  M.  Kimach^  whence  a  dili- 
gence runs  twice  daily  through  the  picturesque  Kimachthal  to 
Yohrenbach  (8  M. ;  p.  369),  passing  the  ruin  of  Kimedc  and  the 
village  of  Vnter-Kimaeh  (2^^  ^» »  Rossle).  Kiraach  (Horniuger's 
Restaur.)  lies  on  the  edge  of  the  Yillinger  Stadtwald,  which  is 
traversed  by  paths  In  all  directions  from  this  point. 

54  M.  ViUingen  (*Blume  or  Post;  Lilie;  Deuticher  Kaiser, 
beside  the  station ;  beer  at  the  Falke ;  Bar),  an  ancient  manufac>- 
turing  town  (6140  inhab.),  mentioned  as  early  as  the  9th  cent., 
and  a  centre  of  the  Black- Vorest  clock-making  industry,  is  partly 
surrounded  with  waUs  and  gates,  which  successfuily  resisted  sieges 
in  the  Thirty  Years'  War  (1633-34)  and  the  war  of  the  Spanish 
Succession  (1703-4).  A  War  Monument  for  1870-71  rises  on  the 
promenade  between  the  station  and  the  town.  Gothic  MiinaUrkirche 
with  two  towers  (of  1420),  a  Gothic  pulpit,  and  some  good  plate. 
The  BathhauB  contains  well-preserved  rooms  in  the  medieval  style, 
and  a  collection  of  antiquities  (40  pf.).  The  8t.  MiehaeUtkwm, 
with  a  statue  of  Romelius  (d.  1513),  is  the  most  interesting  of  the 
old  towers.  The  Tower  of  the  AUatadtkirche,  beside  the  (V2  ^O  c^" 
metery,  is  a  relic  of  the  old  town  of  ViUingen  which  was  removed 
to  its  present  site  about  1119.  The  Wanne,  a  neighbouring  hill, 
commands  a  fine  mountain-view  iu  clear  weather.  About  1  M.  to 
the  N.E.  is  the  ruined  Warenburg,  —  Yillingen  is  the  junction  for 
the  railway  to  Rottweil ;  see  Baedeker'9  Southern  Qetmany. 

55  M.  Matbaeh;  56V3  M.  KUngen;  59  M.  Qriiningen. 

62i/2  M.  Donaneiohingen  (2263  ft. ;  *8chuize;  Brunner,  at  the 
station;  Falke  or  Post;  small  Saline  Bath  heside  the  station),  an 
ancient  town  with  3600  inhab..  Is  the  residence  (since  1723)  of  the 
Princes  of  F&rstenberg,  who  possess  a  celebrated  library  and  valuable 
collections.    From  the  station,   near  which  is  a  salt-bath  opened  in 


368    BouUdS.         DONAtJESCmNOEN.  Blatk  Famt. 

1871,  we  follow  the  main  street,  past  the  new  bvilding  of  the  'Do- 
main Adminiatration',  to  a  bridge,  on  the  other  side  of  which,  to 
the  right,  is  the  gate  of  the  prineely  Park.  The  latter  is  always 
open  to  the  publie,  but  the  Paktee  only  occasionally.  Near  the 
palace  is  a  roand,  walled-in  basin,  with  a  spring  of  clear  water, 
which  is  led  by  a  subterranean  channel  to  the  Brigach  about  100  ft. 
distant.  An  inscription  styles  this  spring  the  ^Source  of  ike  Danube* 
(2220  ft.  above  the  sea-leyel;  1780 M.  from  the  sea),  but  the  name 
Danube  is  usually  first  applied  to  the  stream  formed  by  the  union 
of  the  Brigach  and  the  Brege. 

On  an  eminence  behind  the  church  and  the  palace  stands  the 
KarUbau^  a  building  completed  in  1868,  and  containing  the  art 
and  other  collections. 

On  the  ground-floor  i»  the  Oeclogieal  Collection.  ^  The  flrat  floor  con- 
tains, on  Uie  right,  the  Mintralogicul  Collection,  ethnological  curiosities, 
and  Roman,  Franconian,  and  other  antiquities  found  in  S.W.  Oermany, 
to  the  left  is  the  Zoological  OtMnot.  —  The  Aet-Gollbctioms  on  the 
second  floor  consist  of  pictures  and  casts,  the  latter  chiefly  from  the  an- 
tique. The  most  important  pictures  are  those  of  the  Swabian  and  Fran- 
conian Schools  of  the  16th  century,  which  are  collected  in  a  room 
lighted  from  above.  (Catalogue  by  Woltmann).  Nos.  41,  42.  Wings  of 
an  altar-piece,  Salutation  and  SS.  Magdalene  and  Ursula,  by  Barth,  ZoUblom. 
43-64.  The  Passion  in  twelve  sections,  by  Holbein  the  Elder  (monogram 
on  the  picture  of  the  Resurrection);  69-71,  Wings  of  an  altar-piece,  Saints, 
by  Mane  Burgkmair.  Altar-pieces  by  Barthel  Beham :  73-75.  Wings  of  an 
altar-piece,  of  which  the  central  picture  is  at  Mosskirch  \  76-80.  Madonna 
with  saints  and  donors ,  81-85.  St.  Anna  with  other  saints ;  86.  Christ  on  the 
cross;  87-90.  SS.  Afra,  Paul,  Anthony,  and  James,  a  fragment.  —  Among 
the  modem  pictures,  which  fill  several  rooms,  few  are  of  much  merit. 

The  Armoury^  which  occupies  a  separate  building,  embellished 
■with  a  frieze  with  hunting-scenes,  contains  a  number  of  old  imple- 
ments of  the  chase  and  a  few  modern  arms. 

The  L9frary  and  Archivts  are  in  separate  buildings  near  the 
post-offlce.  The  library,  with  which  that  of  Baron  von  Lassberg 
was  united  in  1860,  consists  of  90,000  vols,  and  about  1000  MSS., 
including  the  finest  MS.  of  the  Nibelungenlied  after  those  of  Mu- 
nich and  St.  Gallen,  and  several  others  of  early-Oerman  origin. 
The  same  building  contains  the  collections  of  Engrcwings  (Durer, 
Mantegna,  etc.)  and  Coins,  —  A  large  brewery  at  Donaueschingen 
belongs  to  the  princely  family.  —  Post-omnibus  toFreiburg(p.  344) 
in  8V2  lirs. ;  to  Ncustadt  (p.  373),  twice  daily  in  4  hours. 

The  railway  now  follows  the  grassy  valley  of  the  Danube,  Sta- 
tions P/b^r^n,  Neudingen  (with,  mausoleum  of  the  princes  of  Ffirsten- 
berg),  Outmadingenj  OeisingenjHinUehingen,  (76 M.^Jmmendingen 
y  unction  for  Tuttlingen  and  Rottweil,  see  Baedeket's  8,  Oermany)^ 
Engen,  (94  M.)  Singen,  and  (113  M.)  Gonitaaee  (p.  388). 


Black  Forest,  FURTWANGEN.  48.  Route,    369 

e.  From  Triberg  to  Waldkiroh  vifc  Furtwaagen.    Yalleyi  of 
Sixaoniwald  and  Sis. 

88  H.  From  Triberg  to  (OVs  M.)  Fartwangen,  diligence  twice  daily  in 
2V3  ^r9\  from  Fnrtwangen  to  (ISVs  M.)  Waldkirch,  diligence  once  daily 
in  S'/s  ^-  0>*ck  in  5  lurs.)*    This  is  a  pleasant  route  for  pedestrians. 

Triberg  (2245  ft.),  see  p.  366.  The  road  to  Furtwangen  first 
ascends  the  ^Unterthal*  to  the  W. ,  and  at  the  WaUfahrUkirche 
(2405  ft.),  about  i/2  M.  from  Triberg,  turns  to  the  left,  and  ascends 
the  hill  in  long  windings  to  the  (2^/4  M.)  Inn  zum  Wasserfall 
(p.  366  ]  the  carriage-road  in  the  Unterthal  leads  to  Schonach,  see 
p.  366).  Pedestrians  had  better  ascend  the  path  mentioned  on 
p.  366,  past  the  waterfall,  by  which  they  regain  the  road  at  the 
Wasserfall  Inn,  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  in  i/2  hour.  About  V2  M. 
farther  is  a  restaurant  (Zur  Linde),  beyond  which  we  reach  the 
church  and  viUage  of -Sfc/»ontuaid  (3225  ft. ;  ♦Adler;  ♦Hirsch).  From 
almost  every  house  resound  the  tapping  of  hammers  and  the  peculiar 
grating  of  files,  indicating  the  abodes  of  clockmakers. 

Pleasant  footpath  across  the  BrUeklerain^  and  through  the  Griibachthal 
(or  through  the  Nonnenbachthat),  to  (2V2  hrs.)  Simanmald  (see  next  page). 

Near  the  last  houses  of  Schonwald  stands  a  way-post,  pointing 
on  to  (51/2  M.)  Furtwangen  and  back  to  (33/4  M.)  Triberg.  Pedes- 
trians take  the  old  road ,  diverging  to  the  right  a  little  before  this 
point  is  reached,  and  joining  the  new  road  by  the  inn  Zum  Kreuz 
(3500  ft.),  at  the  top  of  the  pass ,  which  forms  the  watershed  be- 
tween the  Rhine  and  the  Danube.  The  new  road  descends  gradually 
and  circuitously.  Travellers  on  foot  may  shorten  the  distance 
considerably  by  taking  the  broad  and  precipitous  old  road,  which  di- 
verges to  the  right  a  few  paces  beyond  the  Kreuz  Inn,  and  rejoins 
the  new  road  lower  down.  —  3  M.  Furtwangen  (2800  ft. ;  *8onne, 
EngeC)^  on  the  Brtge,  a  prosperous  little  town  with  3500  inhab., 
where  the  beat  clocks  in  the  Black  Forest  are  manufactured.  The 
*Gewerbehalle',  or  industrial  hall,  affords  a  general  view  of  the  in- 
dustries of  the  district  and  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  old 
Black  Forest  clocks,  from  the  end  of  the  16th  cent,  onwards.  There 
is  also  a  large  training-school  for  wood-carvers  and  clockmakers. 
New  church.  Pleasant  excursion  to  the  Brend^  an  eminence  1Y2^'* 
to  the  N.W.,  commanding  a  fine  view. 

Hieh-road  hence  to  the  E.  by  FtfArenftotfA  (5  M.  \  Kreuz)  to  Kimachy 
see  p.  867. 

From  Furtwangen  a  footpath  leads  via  PrUg  (ascend  the  Halde  to 
the  left;  finger-post  on  the  top)  and  Kaltenherberg  to  (TVs  H.)  Waldau 
(Traubey  unpretending  but  good)  a  favourite  summer-resort.  6ood  echo 
at  the  neighbouring  Lachkdtule.  Thence  down  the  Lanffenordxachthal  to 
(4Vz  M.)  the  road  from  Freiburg  to  Kenstadt  \  oomp.  p.  373. 

The  new  ♦Road  to  Simonswald  and  Waldkirch  ascends  from 
Furtwangen  to  the  S.W.,  describing  several  curves.  Pedestrians 
may  avoid  these  by  following  a  narrow  road  to  the  left  about  ^4  'Ml, 
beyond  Furtwangen ,  which  rejoins  the  highway  at  the  top  of  the 
hill  (3310  ft.),  near  the  Stadt  Freiburg  inn.     The   road  again 

Baedbkeb's  Rhine.    10th  Edit.  24 


370    RouUdS.  WALDKIIiCH.  Black  For e3t. 

croises  the  watershed  between  the  Danube  and  the  Rhine  ,  and 
soon  reaches  (41/2  M.  from  Furtwangen)  0&tenbach  (2840  ft. ; 
*Zur  Hoehburgf  'pension'  4^2  m.),  another  busy,  clook-making 
place,  with  a  picturesque  church. 

From  Oiitenbacb  to  St.  M&rgen,  ▼!&  the  WildguUch-Thal,  see  p.  372. 

The  road,  which  is  partly  hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  continues 
towards  the  W.  A  path  on  the  left  diverges  to  the  deep  ravine  of 
the  Wilde  Gutach  and  to  the  Zweribach  Fall  (see  below).  The 
road  then  turns  to  the  N.  and  descends  in  long  windings,  affording 
numerous  beautiful  views;  the  finest  is  that  of  the  *Fall  of  the 
Zweribach^  issuing  from  the  Hohe  Kandel,  beyond  the  Gutach  thai 
(not  seen  to  such  advantage  from  any  nearer  point).  About  5  M. 
from  Gutach  is  the  inn  *Zum  Engclj  at  the  junction  of  the  road  with 
the  old  KHpenstrcuse,  which  also  comes  from  Furtwangen  and  will 
repay  walkers. 

As  we  descend  the  picturesque  *8imoniwald  Valley  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  road  increase.  The  costume  of  the  Inhabitants  is 
peculiar.  The  villages  of  Ober-  and  UnterSimonswald  consist  of 
numerous  scattered  houses.  On  the  right,  by  the  church  of  Ober- 
Simonswald,  1  M.  from  the  Engel  inn,  is  a  finger-post,  indicat- 
ing the  way  through  the  Grisbachthal  to  Schonwald  and  Triberg 
(p.  369).  About  3  M.  farther  on  lies  the  inn  Zur  Krone  (1160  ft.), 
near  the  prettily-situated  church  of  Unter-Simonswald.  [A  pic- 
turesque path,  for  nearly  the  whole  way  among  wood,  leads  through 
the  EtUrsbacher-Thal  from  Unter-Simonswald  to  (2  hrs.)  the  Hohe 
Kandel  (see  below).]  The  hiU  to  the  right  is  the  Homleberg  (2970  ft.). 
Near  (4  M.)  Bleyhack  (1000  ft. ;  Lowe),  a  village  on  the  right,  the 
valley  opens  into  the  broad  and  smiling  Elxthal,  in  which,  6  M. 
higher  up,  lies  the  old  town  of  Elzach  (Post).  A  new  road  leads  from 
the  latter  by  Hofstetten  to  Haslach  in  the  Kinzigthal  and  another 
to  Homberg  (comp.  pp.  363-365).  —  The  road  to  Waldkirch  de- 
scends the  Elzthal,  at  first  following  the  right  bank  of  the  brook, 
which  is  crossed  at  Bleybach.  The  villages  of  Outachj  KollnaUy 
where  the  Elz  is  again  crossed,  and  (31/2  M.)  Waldkirch  are  almost 
contiguous. 

Waldkirch  (902  ft.;  *LdweoTPost,  R.  1  m.  20  pf.;  *Arche, 
with  a  garden,  near  the  station ;  *Rebstocky  with  a  brewery ;  *St. 
Margarethen,  also  a  ^pension',  pleasantly  situated),  a  busy  and 
prettily-situated  little  town  of  3664  inhab.,  with  glass  and  stone- 
polishing  works,  is  connected  with  the  Baden  Railway  by  a  branch- 
line.  The  station  lies  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Schlossberg  (1185  ft.),  which  is  crowned  with  the  rain  of 
Kastelburgy  and  may  be  ascended  in  20  minutes.  The  visitor  may 
also  ascend  (S.)  through  the  finely  wooded  Alpersbacher-  Thai 
(numerous  finger-posts)  to  the  Hohe  Kandel  (4078  ft. ;  extensive 
view ;  10  min.  from  the  top,  to  the  N.,  a  new  Rasthaus,  R.  Im.  20, 
B.  80  pf.,  well  spoken  of),  in  21/2-3  hours.    Pleasant  descent  to 


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Black  Forest.  HOLLENTHAL.  48.  Route,     371 

Unter-Simonswald ,    see  above.     Diligence   to  (8'/2  M.)  Elzach, 
twice  daily. 

Railway  (41/2  M. ;  fares  80,  60,  40  pf.)  in  16  min.  from  Wald- 
kircb  yik  Buchholz  (near  the  pleasant  little  baths  of  Suggenthal, 
♦Pension  41/2-5  nx.)  to  Denzlingen'XV'  344). 

f .  From  Freiburg  to  Kenstadt.  HoUentbal.  Feldberg.  Sohlnohsee. 
(hmp.  Mapt  p.  876. 

The  *H5llent]ua  Bulway  (from  Freiburg  to  Keustadt,  22  M .,  in  21/3  bra. 
ascending,  2  brs.  10  min.  descending),  which  is  to  be  opened  in  the  spring 
of  1887,  commands  as  grand  and  beautiful  scenery  as  any  part  of  the 
older  Schwarzwald  line.  Starting  from  the  principal  station  at  Freiburg 
(p.  3i4),  it  crosses  the  DreiMtn^  and  ascends  the  left  bank  of  the  stream, 
past  Wiehre^  the  8.  suburb  of  Freiburg,  Waldsee  (p.  360)  and  Bad  Litten- 
weiler  (p.  860).  Beyond  Kirehtarten  (see  p.  872;  diligence  to  Todtnau) 
and  ffimmelreich  (see  p.  372;  diligence  to  St.  Margen),  the  line  gradually 
ascends  (21/3:100,  Schwarzwald  line  2:100)  the  HoUenthal  proper,  and 
traverses  the  N.  slope  of  the  valley  by  means  of  massive  supporting  walls, 
over  a  viaduct,  54  yds.  long,  and  through  three  short  tunnels,  between 
which  there  are  pretty  glimpses  of  the  Hirschsprung  (see  p.  372).  As  far 
as  (11  M.)  Edllenthal^  where  we  return  to  the  floor  of  the  valley,  the 
railway  consists  of  a  single  line  of  rails  of  the  usual  type,  but  beyond 
that  station  the  ascent  becomes  so  steep  (dVs^lOO;  Bigibahn  25:100)  that, 
in  order  to  obviate  the  necessity  of  passengers'  changing  carriages,  the 
toothed-wheel  system  is  adopted  for  nearly  6  M.  Beyond  a  tunnel,  157  yds. 
long,  lie  the  stations  Posthalde^  near  the  inn  Zum  Adler  (see  p.  372),  and 
Stertty  high  above  the  inn  of  the  same  name  (see  p.  372).  At  the  *Viaduct, 
237  yds.  long,  resting  upon  three  stone  pillars  118  ft.  high,  which  spans 
the  Ravenna- ScMuehi  (see  p.  373),  the  train  reaches  the  most  magnificent 
part  of  the  line.  Beyond  the  gorge  the  line  skirts  the  supporting-wall  of 
the  Hollensteig-Strasse,  crosses  the  latter  by  an  iron  bridge  farther  on, 
and  entering  the  LOffellhal  by  means  of  two  tunnels,  reaches  its  highest 
point  (2930  ft.)  at  Bmierzarten  (see  p.  378).  The  toothed  rails  end  here. 
The  line  now  gradually  descends  through  moors  to  the  stat.  of  Titi-See^ 
!{«  H.  from  the  inn  mentioned  below,  and  continues  down  the  Gutachthal 
to  Ifeuttadt  (p.  373). 

FiVK  DATS  are  required  for  a  visit  to  the  HoUenthal,  Feldberg,  and 
the  three  S.  valleys  of  the  Black  Forest,  including  either  the  excursion 
to  Belchen  and  Badenweiler,  described  at  pp.  379  and  380,  or  the  follow- 
ing tour :  —  1st.  Drive  from  Freiburg  to  the  beginning  of  the  HoUenthal 
(carr.  with  two  horses,  10  m.),  walk  or  drive  (carr.  20  m.)  thence  to  (71/2  H.) 
Titi-See  (p.  373;  railway  to  be  opened  in  1887) ;  ascend  the  Feldberg  in  872  hrs. 
—  2nd.  Descend  to  Todtnau  (p.  881)  in  2  hrs.,  through  the  Wiesenthal  to 
(12  M.)  Zell  (railway  being  built;  p.  882),  railway  to  JBehop/heim.  —  3rd. 
Railway  to  L6rrach  (p.  882 ;  Schlos*  BMteln  or  TiUlinger  HOhe),  return  to 
Schopfheim,  thence  in  the  evening  to  (i^/aM.)  Wehr  (p.  38^.  —  4th.  Through 
the  Wehrathal  to  (12  M.)  Todtmoos  (p.  388) ,  thence  to  St.  Blasien  (p.  384) 
in  3  hrs.  —  5th.  To  mchenschwand  (p.  386)  in  IV4  hr.,  NiedermUhle  2»/4  hrs., 
thence  by  the  Albstrasse  to  (10  tf.)  Albhruck  (p.  385).  (An  interesting 
addition  to  this  tour  may  be  made  by  visiting  the  picturesque  little 
Rhenish  towns  of  Laufenburg  and  SQckingen,  see  R.  49.) 

DiLiOBNCSs  (till  the  railway  is  opened).  From  Freiburg  to  Hinter- 
sarten-Altenweg  and  Keustadt  (p.  378),  thrice  daily ;  between  Hinterzarten- 
Altenweg  and  Schluchsee,  once  daily;  Keustadt,  Lenzkirch,  Schluchsee, 
and  St.  Blasien  (p.  384),  once  daily;  Keustadt  and  Donaueschingen, 
twice  daily. 

Freiburg  (see  p.  344)  is  quitted  by  the  Schwabentbor.  The  broad 
valley  of  the  DreUaniy  ascending  into  the  mountains  from  Freiburg, 

24* 


372    BouUdS.  HOLLSNTHAL.  Black  Forest, 

is  not  at  first  sufficiently  attrtotive  for  the  pedestrian.  —  3  M. 
Ebnet^  with  an  old  chateau,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Dieisam.  3  M. 
Zartenj  with  traces  of  the  RoiDan  castle  Tarundunum. 

A  road  here  diverges  to  the  right  to  Todtftau  (p.  381).  From  (>/«  M.) 
Klrcfitarten  (Krone)  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Dreisain  derives  its 
appellation.  At  (3  M.)  Oberried  (8tem  or  P^tt;  ffirsch;  AdUr),  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Zastlerthal  (p.  376),  a  wood  is  entered;  3  M.  farther  the  8t. 
Wilhelmgthal  (p.  3T6)diverges  to  the  left.  *Am  Jfothschref  (4  M.)  ia  the 
culminating  point  (8906  ft.)  of  the  route  (whence  the  Feldberg  can  be 
ascended  in  2Vs  hrs.) ;  here  the  road  quits  the  wood  and  descends  through 
the  upper  Wiesenthal  bv  Muggenhrunn  (Griiner  Baum;  V*  lur*  farther, 
finger-post  on  the  left  indicating  the  way  to  Todtnauberg,  p.  %1)  and  After- 
titg  to  (6V4  M.)  Todtnau  (p.  381).  Between  Aftersteg  and  Todtnau  a  foot- 
path diverges  to  the  Todtnauberg  WaUrfiM  (see  p.  981). 

From  (IV2  M.)  Butg  (Zur  Brandenburg)  a  good  road  diverges  to 
the  left  to  St.  Margen. 

The  road  leads  vi&  (1  H.)  BMOuvhach  (on  the  left  the  ruined  castle  of 
ir««n«ejt),  and  ascends  the  Wageruteigthal  to  (5  M.)  the  loftily  -  situated 
village  of  St.  Kirg«n  (3919  ft. ;  Rirseh;  Jrron«,*pen8ion*  4  m.).  A  picturesque 
road  ascends  in  V/^  hr.  to  the  Thumer  (8320  ft. ;  Inn),  and  then  descends 
to  (31/s  H.)  the  Inn  Zum  Lffwen  at  Breitenau.  About  IVz  tf.  from  the  inn 
a  finger-post  indicates  the  path,  to  the  right,  through  the  Bavennathal  to 
the  Stern  (see  below),  while  the  road  continues  to  (I'/s  M.  farther)  the 
BoBsle  Inn  at  Hinterzarten  (p.  873).  Another  pleasant  walk  leads  from 
the  Thurner.  by  the  Weisitafmem-Hdhe  (3910  ft. ;  view) ,  to  the  Titi-See 
(8-9  M.  \  p.  373.  —  Picturesque  route  from  St.  Margen  through  the  Wild- 
gutacMhal  to  (7i/s  M.)  OUtenbaeh  (p.  370). 

The  road  now  enters  a  more  mountainous  region,  the  first  part 
of  which  is  called  the  Himme^eicA  ('kingdom  of  heaven'),  from  the 
contrast  it  presents  to  the  wild  ravine  of  the  Holle  (*heil')  beyond. 
At  the  entrance  to  the  latter  the  ruin  of  FalkensUin  stands  on  the 
hill  to  the  left;  on  the  right  are  small  iron-works.  —  10  M.  (from 
Freiburg)  Falkeruteig  (Zwei  Tauben,  well  spoken  of),  a  diligence- 
station.   Beyond  this  point  walking  is  recommended. 

The  *HolIenpats  proper,  a  grand  defile  with  towering  and  over- 
hanging rocks,  partly  overgrown  with  firs  and  underwood,  beginning 
1/2  M.  from  Falkensteig,  is  3/4  M.  in  length.  The  wildest  and  most 
beautiful  point  is  at  the  *JIirsch8prung,  marked  by  the  wooden  figure 
of  a  stag.  The  road  winding  through  the  defile  was  constructed  by 
the  Austrian  government  in  1770,  and  was  shortly  afterwards  tra- 
versed by  the  Archduchess  Marie  Antoinette  when  on  her  way  to 
France  to  marry  the  Dauphin,  the  future  Louis  XVI.  The  pass  also 
witnessed  the  celebrated  retreat  of  Moreau,  Oct.  1796,  when  pursued 
by  the  Archduke  Charles. 

The  Hollenthal  now  expands.  On  the  roadside,  4  M,  from  Fal- 
kensteig, lies  the  rustic  inn  *Zum  Adler^  whence  a  new  road  leads 
up  the  Feldberg  (p.  874).  We  then  pass  the  Chapd  of  8t,  Oswald, 
and  reach  (1  M.)  the  — 

14  M.  Stern  Jnn  (2354 ft.,  R.  V^m. ,  B,  80 pf.,  D.  21/2  m., 
'pens.' 6  m.),  a  diligence-station,  with  baths,  and  several  dependen- 
cies. It  is  about  7  M.  from  Burg ,  and  not  quite  6  M.  from  the 
Titi-See.  —  Thence  to  the  summit  of  the  Feldberg,  see  p.  373. 


Black  Forest.  TITI-SEE.  48.  Route.     373 

Opposite  ih«  inn,  to  the  N.,  opens  the  Bavennathal,  a  wild  ravine  with 
a  fine  cascade,  trarersed  hy  a  good  path.  By  this  path  the  windings  of 
the  road  may  be  cut  off,  and  the  road  rejoined  (15-20  min.)  at  one  of 
its  finest  points,  which  the  diligence  from  the  ^Stem'  takes  fully  Vs  hr. 
to  reach.  [A  pleasant  route  from  the  *Stem^  to  Oberhollsteig  (see  below) 
is  as  follows :  keep  to  the  high-road  for  1/2  M. ;  beyond  the  bridge,  where 
it  makes  a  sharp  curve  to  the  left,  take  the  road  to  the  right,  which 
ascends  the  picturesque  Ldffelthal,  now  traversed  by  the  railway,  to 
dVs  M.)  the  first  houses  of  Hintertarten;  then  to  the  left  to  (V4  M.)  Ober- 
hollsteig.] 

From  the  inn  the  road  ascends  the  HoUensteig  in  bold  windings, 
affording  many  beautiful  retrospects.  It  reaches  the  top  of  the  hill 
at  (372  M.)  OberhoUateigj  a  Uttle  beyond  which  is  the  prettily 
situated  rustic  inn  ♦Weisses  Rossle  (2884  ft. ;  *pens.*  ^^2'^  n^O-  ^ 
road  branches  off  to  the  right  here  to  the  Barenthal,  Feldberg,  and 
Altglashutte ;  on  this  road,  about  1  M.  from  the  Weisses  Rossle,  is 
the  village  of  Hinteriarten ,  a  favourite  summer-resort  (2938  ft. ; 
Adler,  Schuler's  Pensionj  unpretending,  4  m.  per  day ;  rustic  lodg- 
ings). —  1  M.  farther  on  lies  Erlenbruek  (Schwan). 

From  the  Weisses  Rossle  a  walk  of  1^2  M.  along  the  high-road 
brings  us  to  — 

18  M.  Alienweg  ("'Bar),  a  post-station,  beyond  which  the  road 
divides. 

The  road  to  the  right  leads  to  the  (^^M.)  small  Titi-See,  a  lake 
abounding  in  flsh,  fed  by  the  Seebach  (jp.  374)  and  drained  by  the 
Qutaeh.  At  the  exit  of  the  latter  is  *Eigler'8  Inn  (*pens.'  3  m., 
with  R.  from  5  m.),  a  favourite  summer  resort,  2768  ft.  above  the 
sea- level,  and  near  the  woods.  A  new  inn  is  being  built.  —  About 
172  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Titi-See,  on  the  old  road  to  Lenzkirch,  now 
disused  on  account  of  its  steepness,  lies  8aig  (*0ch8,  with  ^pen- 
sion'). A  new  footpath  also  leads  to  Saig.  —  From  the  Titi-See  to 
the  Feldberg,  see  p.  374. 

The  post-road  to  Neustadt  returns  now  for  about  Y4  M.  in  the 
direction  of  Alteuweg,  and  then  turns  to  the  right  towards  the 
Gutach.  The  direct  road  from  Altenweg  joins  it  at  Springelsbaeh. 
Farther  on  we  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Langenordracher-Thal ,  in 
which  lies  (51/2  M.)  Waldau  (p.  369). 

221/2  M.  Heustadt  (2716  ft.;  Adler  or  Pott;  Krone;  Lowe; 
Bar),  an  ancient  industrial  town,  with  2556  inhab.,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Hochfirst,  Clock-making,  tanning,  and  gold-embroidery  are  the 
chief  Industries.  Pretty  walks  to  the  (4V2  M.)  LuchsfeUen,  to  the 
(272  M.)  Lorenhofj  to  (472  M.)  Friedenweiler  via  Rudenbergj  etc. 

The  road  leads  on  to  Loffingen  (772M. ;  Liiwe),  Huftngen(iQM. ; 
Lowe),  and  Donaueschirigen  (18  M. ;  p.  367). 

The  Fbldbb&g  may  be  ascended  from  the  Hollenthal,  direct 
from  the  Adler  or  from  the  Stern  Inn  (p.  372),  or  from  Hinterzarten 
(see  above),  but  it  is  preferable  to  follow  the  high-road  to  the  Titi- 
See,  and  begin  the  ascent  thence. 

Fbom  ths  Adlkb  or  thb  Stern  Inn  the  distance  is  about  the  same 
(3V«  ^rS' ;  gi>id«,  4  m.,  not  indispensable).     The  paths  turn  to  the  right 


374    RouUdS.  FELDBERG.  Blade  Forest, 

Joft  above  the  inn^  cross  the  brook,  Mcend  tbrough  the  wood,  and  tra- 
verse green  meadows^  passing  (25  min.)  the  Ave  farms  which  form  the 
parish  of  Albersl>aeh.  The  two  paths  nnite  here.  After  25  min.  more  the 
path  passes  the  Oiuchpeh  Hof\  IV4  hr.  the  hamlet  Avf  dsm  BUmhwn  (new 
path  hence  to  the  Feldsee,  see  below) ;  25  min.  Baldwwtgtr  ViehhUtU  \ 
UU  min.  the  saddle  of  the  hill,  where  we  turn  to  the  left^  35  min.  Feldberg 
Inn.  We  then  turn  to  the  right  and  reach  the  top  in  1/4  hour.  —  Fkom 
HiNTKRZAKTKM  (3Vi  hrs.)  the  road  *to  BarcDthal,  Feldberg  and  Altglas- 
hutte\  menUoned  at  p.  373  leads  by  £rUnbru€k  (p.  373)  into  the  B&renthal, 
which  it  ascends  between  the  scattered  houses  named  after  the  valley  to 
the  (4Vs  M.)  Adler  Jnn  (see  below). 

Pedestrians  starting  from  the  Titi-See  Inn  (p.  373)  may  take 
the  following  route  to  the  Feldberg  (372  hrs.):  by  boat  (1-2  pers. 
40,  each  additional  pers.  30  pf. ;  boat  not  always  to  be  had)  in 
35  min.  to  the  upper  (W.)  end  of  the  lake,  a  considerable  saving. 
Here  mount  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  road  on  the  N.W.  bank 
of  the  lake,  traverse  the  BrwUrhalde,  and  ascend  the  valley ;  at  a 
(3/4  hr.)  saw-mill  cross  the  Seebach  (the  discharge  of  the  Feld- 
see) ;  then  through  the  wood,  passing  between  the  houses  of  Ba- 
renthal,  to  the  (V2  hr.)  Adler  Inn  (good  wine).  Beyond  the  inn  the 
road  continues  to  ascend,  commanding  for  some  distance  a  fine 
survey  of  the  Barenthal  and  the  Titi-See,  and  then  enters  beau- 
tiful pine-forest  (the  property  of  Prince  Fiirstenberg)  with  very 
picturesque  rock-scenery.  About  3  M.  above  the  Adler  a  path 
diverges  to  the  right  to  the  *Feld8ee  (3644  ft. ;  whence  a  steep 
zigzag  footpath  ascends  to  the  Feldberg  Inn  in  3/4  hr.).  The  road 
soon  quits  the  wood ;  1  M.  Menzenachwander  HuiU ;  1/4  M.  Feldberg 
Inn  (4197  ft. ;  B.  IV2-2  m.,  B.  60  pf.,  D.  21/2  m.,  'pens.'  51/2-6  m. ; 
post-office  and  telephone). 

The  path  hence  to  the  (1-1 V4  ^^0  ^P  ^^^  scarcely  be  mistaken. 
Not  quite  half-way  (25-30  min.)  is  the  Seebnok  (4757  ft.) ,  a  spot 
furnished  with  benches,  commanding  a  less  extensive  but  more 
picturesque  *View  than  the  top.  Far  below,  enclosed  by  precipitous 
pine-clad  mountains ,  and  fed  by  waterfalls,  lies  the  gloomy  little 
Feldsee  (see  above);  beyond  it  the  Barenthal  with  its  numerous 
chalets,  watered  by  the  Seebach ;  in  the  background  the  W.  part  of 
the  Titi-See. 

The  *reldberg  (4901  ft. ;  1004  ft.  lower  than  the  Rigi-Kulm) 
is  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Black  Forest,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Bavarian  Alps  and  the  Schneekoppe  in  the  Riesen- 
gebirge  (5138  ft.),  also  the  highest  in  Germany.  It  commands  a 
magnificent  and  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  mountains  and 
valleys,  the  Swabian  Mts.,  Rhine  Valley,  and  Alps.  Keys  of  the 
Friedrich-Luiaen  Thurm  on  the  summit,  which  Is  known  as  the 
'Hochste',  are  kept  at  the  Inn,  and  at  the  Todtnauer  and  the  S, 
Wilhelmer  Hutu,  1/2  ^^'  helow  the  summit  on  the  S.  (at  both,  re- 
freshments and  night-quarters). 

ASCBNT  OF  THR  FbLDBBBO   FBOM  ObBKKIBD  (p.  372)  TUKOUOH  THS 

St.  Wilhblmsthal  (5  hrs.)-  We  follow  the  Todtnau  road  for  3  H.  to  a 
Qnger-post,  indicating  the  way  to  the  left  to  the  picturesque,  wooded,  and 


t 


Black  Forest.  FELDBERO.  48.  Route.     375 

rocky  8t.  Wilhelmsthal.  The  broad  track  crogses  the  brook  four  times; 
beyond  the  last  bridge  (2  hrs.)  is  the  humble  inn  Zum  Napf.  The  foot- 
path to  the  left  is  to  be  followed  hence;  12  min.,  ascend  to  the  left,  at  first 
gradually,  afterwards  in  rapid  zigzags;  */i  hr..  the  wood  is  quitted  (way- 
post)  ;  again  ascend  to  the  left  to  the  (S5  min.)  St.  Wilhelmer  EUUe  (see 
above),  from  which  the  summit  is  attained  in  20  min.  more. 

From  Obkb&ied  th&ouoh  thk  Zastlebthal  (S^/*  hrs.).  The  road  is 
quitted  at  Oberried,  and  the  Zastlerthaly  a  narrower  and  wilder  valley  than 
the  St.  Wilhelmsthal,  is  ascended.  In  2V4  hrs.  we  reach  Ai^f  dem  Rinken^ 
and  in  1  hr.  more  the  top,  by  the  route  first  described  (p.  874). 

Fbom  Todtnau  (see  below;  SVa  hrs.).  We  ascend  the  Brandenherger 
Thai ,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Wiese.  At  the  first  house  of  (IV2  lir.)  Fahl 
'  .  381)  we  cross  the  bridge,  and  30  paces  farther  we  ascend  to  the  right  by 
lc  way-post  through  fine  wood.  We  then  either  proceed  by  the  (IV2  br.) 
Todtnauer  Hiitte,  mentioned  above,  to  the  (V2  br.)  tower,  or  follow  the 
left  bank  of  the  Wiese  direct  to  the  (I'A  hr.)  Feldberg  Inn.  —  The 
ascent  from  Todtnauberg  (p.  381 ;  guide  aesirable)  occupies  3  hrs. ;  the 
route  unites  at  the  Todtnauer  Hiitte  with  that  above  described.  —  From 
the  Ifothsehrei  to  the  top  of  the  Feldberg  in  2V2  brs.,  see  p.  372. 

Fbox  Hbnzbnschwand  (p.  384;  2  hrs.).  This  route  is  also  easily  found. 
It  ascends  by  the  Alb^  crossing  it  several  times,  and  finally  leading  along 
the  left  bank. 

Fbox  St.  Blasixn  (p.  384;  SVsbrs.).  About  1 H.  above  St.  Blasien  a  road 
diverges  to  the  rieht  from  the  high-road,  ascends  the  Albthal,  and,  mounting 
the  Bdixberg^  leads  to  Muchenland  (3786  ft.)  in  IV4  hour.  It  then  runs  along 
the  hill  through  the  woods,  passing  a  clearing  (with  a  bench),  where  an 
imposing  view  is  obtained  of  the  Schluchsee  far  below.  The  road  then 
gradually  descends  to  Aeule  (3379  ft. ;  Rossle).  A  path,  which  cuts  oflf  the 
long  windings  of  the  road,  ascends  close  to  the  Bdssle,  and  in  V*  ^' 
reaches  the  top  of  the  pass  between  the  valley  of  Aeule  and  that  of  Hen- 
zenschwand.  After  regaining  the  road  we  reach  a  finger-post  ('Waldweg'), 
where  we  take  a  road  to  the  right,  which  soon  contracts  into  a  footpath 
(views  of  the  profound  Albthal),  and  at  length  joins  the  road  leading 
through  the  Barenthal  to  the  Feldberg.  From  the  top  of  the  pass  above 
Aeule  to  the  Feldberg  Inn,  IV4  hour. 

Fbox  Schluchsbb  (p.  376).    The  new  road  by  UnUr  and  Ober-Aha  and 

•    •-■         •        in  the  '^ 


Altgl€uhmt4  unites  in  the  Barenthal  with  the  road  from  Hinterzarten, 
described  at  p.  373.  Walkers  may  quit  the  road  at  Unter-Aha  (p.  375; 
3  M.  from  Schluchsee)  for  the  path  indicated  by  a  finger-post  to  the  left. 


From  thb  Titi-Sbb  to  Schluchsbb  and  St.  Blasibn.  The 
road  (diligence  once  daily)  crosses  the  Ouiaehy  and,  leaving  the 
steep  old  road  via  Saig  (see  above)  to  the  left,  skirts  the  S.  bank 
of  the  lake,  and  ascends  the  pine-clad  hill  in  windings,  command- 
ing beautiful  retrospective  views.  At  the  RothehkreuZj  on  the  top  of 
the  hill,  the  high-road  to  (6M.  from  the  Titi-See)  Xcn«fcif cA  diverges 
to  the  left  (uniting  with  the  old  road  at  MuhUngen ,  farther  on). 
Lenzkirch,  a  village  with  1800  inhab.,  busied  in  straw-plaiting 
and  clock-making,  consists  of  two  portions,  Oberlenzkirdi  (2656  ft. ; 
Post,  Wilder  Mann)  and  Vnterlenzkirch.  In  Oberlenzkiroh  the  road 
forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Bonndorf  and  Schaffhausen,  the 
right  to  (51/2  M.)  Schluchsee. 

The  direct  Schluchsee  road  leads  from  the  Rothenkreuz  by  Falkau 
to  (6  M.)  Altglashutte  (L6we,  well  spoken  of),  loftily  situated 
(3228  ft.)  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Bdrhalde.  It  then  descends,  and 
at  (3  M.)  VnUr-Aha  (Sonne)  turns  to  the  E.  to  the  (3M.)  Sckluch- 


376    R<mU48.  SGHLUCHSEE.  Black  Forest, 

see,  the  N.  bank  of  wkich  it  skifts.  The  diligenee  diTeiges  to  the 
left  from  the  new  road  on  the  bank,  and  ascends  to  the  village  of  — 
10  M.  Bohlnchiee  (2958  ft. ;  *8tem,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  1  m.  80, 
B.  90  pf.,  D  272,  ^pens.'  with  R.  51/2  m. ;  Schiff,  well  spoken  of), 
Y2  M.  from  the  lake,  prettily  and  healthily  situated  in  the  midst  of 
pine-forest,  and  much  frequented  as  a  summer-resort.    The  lake, 

2  M.  long,  and  3/^  M.  broad,  is  well  stocked  with  fish  (boats  for 
hire).    On  the  bank  is  a  bath-establishment,  with  warm  baths. 

The  *FaulenJlrttt  to  which  a  carriage-road  leads  from  the  Schluch- 
see  in  1  hr.,  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  Alps  (comp.  p.  986).  The 
excursion  may  also  be  extended  as  follows :  descend  by  the  K.  side  of  the 
Faulenftrst  to  (V4  hr.)  Rothhavs ,  a  brewery  founded  by  the  abbots  of  St. 
Blasien,  now  crown-property  (Inn  opposite,  with  view  of  the  Alps).  Eoth- 
haus  lies  on  the  road  from  Seebru^  (see  below)  to  Bonndorf.  We  fol- 
low this  road  for  I'/a  M.  in  the  direction  of  Bonndorf,  and  then  diverge  to 
the  right  by  a  new  road,  leading  into  the  wooded  £rlenhaehthal^  which, 
after  about  4  M. ,  unites  with  the  SUinachthal ,  a  little  above  the  three 
ruined  ^ Roggeribacher  Bchld*ter\  We  then  ascend  the  Steinachthal  to 
the  SteinaehmUhlt  (^pension'  4-5  m.),  and  return  by  the  road  to  (4  H.)  Both- 
haus  and  (5  M.)  Schluchsee. 

Fbom  Schlochske  to  Thikngen  (p.  386),  2IV2H.,  diligence  once  daily 
in  4«/4  hrs.  (returning  in  6V«  hrs.),  «ec  p.  387.  —  The  picturesque  Schlucht- 
thal  (p.  387)  is  the  only  interesting  part  of  the  road.  —  A  road  descends 
the  MeUmathal  from  Rothhaus,  turning  to  the  right  after  about  SVa  M.  to 
Brenden.    Thence  to  the  Schliichtthal  vi&  Berau^  4i/«  M. 

From  Schluchsee  the  road  descends  to  the  lake  (where  there  is 
a  finger-post,  pointing  to  Schluchsee  and  Lenzkirch),  and  skirts 
its  bank.  Beyond  (IY2  ^-^  Seebrugg^  consisting  of  a  few  scattered 
houses  with  an  inn ,  it  crosses  the  Schwarxachj  the  brook  by  which 
the  lake  is  drained.  About  8/4  M.  farther  a  finger-post  indicates 
a  path  to  the  right ,  leading  by  Blasiwald  (3940  ft.)  to  St.  Blasien 
(6  M.;  172  M.  shorter  than  by  the  road).  The  high-road  now  enters 
the  Sehwarzhalde  J  a  deep  and  romantic  valley,  which  it  follows 
nearly  to  (4V2  M.)  Hdutem  (p.  384).  A  little  beyond  the  village 
it  "divides  (comp.  p.  384),  the  branch  to  the  left  leading  to  (1 V2  M.) 
mchensehwand  (p.  386),  that  on  the  right  to  (21/4  M.)  — 

31  M.  at.  Blasien  (p.  384). 

g.  Badenweiler  and  Environs. 

Arrival.  At  the  railway-station  of  Mullheih  a  post-omnihut  (90  pf. ; 
box  40-50  pf.)  and  hotel-omnibuses  and  carriages  (5'/2  m.  incl.  gratuity,  box 
40-60  pf.)  are  in  waiting  to  convey  travellers  (in  IV2  hr.)  to  Badenweiler. 
At  Niederweiler  a  shorter  route  to  Badenweiler  (for  pedestrians)  diverges 
to  the  right  (IV4-IV2  hr.). 

Hotels  at  Badenweiler.  ''Bomesbad,  B..  from  2  m.,  A.  50,  B.  1  m. 
20  pf.,  D.  3  m.,  'pens."  7V<-9  m.  according  to  the  season,  with  handsome  ^d^- 
pendance'i  *Hotel  Sommee,  B.  &  A.  3  m.  20,  L.  60  ,B.  1  m.  10  pf.,  D.  2»/4- 

3  m. ;  both  these  hotels  have  baths.  Sonne,  unpretending.  —  Pensions : 
*8adpe,  with  shady  garden,  'pens.'  with  B.  6-7V2  m.^  Engler;  Huoler; 
Sutter;  'Trautwbin;  Haus  Bdrck.  —  Restaurant  at  the  Ourhaus;  beer 
at  Meissburger'a  (also  beds).  —  Ffivate  Apartments  (easily  obtained)  6-25  m. 
per  week. 

At  Oberweiler,  less  expensive  than  Badenweiler:  *  Pension  Venedet; 
*OcHs,  with  garden;   Wilder  Mann,  the  last  two  with  baths;  Blume; 


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Blaek  Forest,  BADENWEILER.  48.  Route.    377 

Hasenbubg,  with  brewery.  —  At  Niederwellert  on  the  roftd  to  Mullheim : 
Lowe,  unpretending.  —  Haus  Baden,  see  p.  378. 

Yiaitors' Tax  at  Badenweiler  2  m.  per  week,  or  20 m.  for  the  season. 
Baths  at  the  Marmorbad  IVzm.,  per  dozen  tickets  15  m.;  at  the  Freibad 
1  m.,  tickets  per  dozen  8-lU  m.  Gentlemen  use  the  Freibad  from  6-9  a.m. 
and  the  Ifarmorbad  9-12,  ladies  vice  versa.  Visitors  admitted  to  the  baths 
12-1,  20  pf.,  at  other  times  50  pf. 

Bngpliah  Ohnrch  Benrice  during  the  season. 

Carrii^je  TariiF  at  Badenweiler.  By  time:  first  hour  Q^/am.^  each  ad* 
ditional  hour2V2m.,  with  gratuity  of  40  pf.  per  hour.  To  the  top  of  the 
Blanetij  one-horse  9  m.  80  pf. ,  two-horse  for  2-3  pers.  14,  for  4-5  pers. 
19  m.,  gratuity  IVa  m. ;  to  BUrgeln  7  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  10V«  or  12  m., 
gratuity  1  m. ;  to  Kandern^  8  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  12  m.,  gratuity  1  m. ;  to 
Sch&nau  15  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  22  or  28  m.,  gratuity  2  m.  —  Donkey  to 
the  station  2  m.,  Blauen  3  m.,  Belchen  8  m.,  Sophienruhe  70  pf.  \  per  Vs 
day  2  m.  75,  whole  day  5  m.  ID  pf.  —  Hoksk  in  each  case  V&th  more. 

Badenweiler  (1385  ft.  above  the  sea,  680  ft.  above  the  Rhine), 
a  village  with  548  Protestant  inhab.,  lies  among  the  W.  spurs  of 
the  Black  Forest,  on  a  buttress  of  the  Blauen,  and  commands  an 
unimpeded  view  across  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  to  the  Vosges.  The 
thermal  springs  (77^-80*^ ,  which  are  almost  destitute  of  mineral 
ingredients ,  were  known  to  the  Romans.  Badenweiler,  however, 
owes  its  present  prosperity  to  its  fine  air,  beautiful  situation,  and 
important  whey-cure.  It  is  patronised  by  over  4000  visitors  annually. 

The  Curhaiu  contains  concert ,  ball ,  and  reading-rooms,  and  a 
restaurant.   Music  6-8  a.m.,  and  3-5  p.m. 

Adjoining  the  Ourhaus  is  a  large  Pakk,  with  numerous  benches 
in  pleasant  situations  andaTrinkhalle  or  covered  promenade  erected 
in  1882,  containing  a  bust  of  the  Orand-Duke  FriedrUh  by  Moest. 
It  occupies  the  slope  of  a  hill  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the  Castley 
which  was  originally  built  by  the  Romans  to  protect  the  baths,  and 
came  into  the  hands  of  the  Dukes  of  Zahringen  in  the  11th  century. 
Fine  prospect  from  the  ivy-clad  walls. 

A  little  below  the  Gurhaus,  to  the  £.,  rises  the  handsome 
*Bath  House,  with  a  portico,  108  ft.  long  and  69  ft.  broad,  built  by 
Leonhard  of  Oarlsruhe,  and  completed  in  1875.  The  arrangement 
of  the  interior  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the  ancient  Roman  baths, 
all  the  rooms  being  vaulted  and  lighted  from  above.  The  principal 
room  contains  the  Marmorbad,  behind  which  is  the  open  Freibad. 

The  ancient  *Boman  Baths  (keys  procured  at  the  hothouse 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  Cursaal,  fee  50  pf.),  in  the  Park  on  the  N.W. 
Bide  of  the  Cursaal ,  discovered  in  1784 ,  are  among  the  finest  in 
existence.  Length  106  yds.,  breadth  33  yds.;  the  walls,  parti- 
tions, pavements,  and  steps  are  all  well-preserved.  The  structure 
is  divided  into  two  corresponding  parts,  the  larger  of  which,  to  the 
W.,  was  reserved  for  the  men,  that  to  the  E.  for  the  women.  On 
each  side  there  is  a  vestibule  (atrium)j  used  for  walking  and  gym- 
nastic exercises,  whence  a  passage,  adjoined  on  the  S.  by  the  dress- 
ing-room (apodyterhitn)  and  on  the  N.  by  the  vapour  or  hot-air 
bath  (caldariumjj  leads  to  the  two  cold-baths  (frigidaria),  each  mea- 
suring 33  by  21  ft.    Beyond  these  are  the  warm  baths  (tepidatia), 


378    Route  48.  BORGELN.  Blcuik  Forest. 

2872  ^y  24ri/2  ft*  Smaller  rooms  served  as  anointing-rooms  (unc- 
toria),  and  for  other  parposes.  The  baths  were  probably  constructed 
in  the  2nd  century  of  our  era. 

In  the  valley  of  the  KUmmbach  to  the  N.  of  Badenweiler, 
through  which  the  road  from  Mullheim  ascends,  are  situated  the 
villages  of  Hiederweiler  (^968  ft.)  and  Oberweiler  (1115  ft. ;  hotels, 
see  p.  376),  both  of  which  are  favourite  watering-places.  The  latter 
is  frequented  in  spring  and  autumn  as  being  more  sheltered  and 
quieter  than  Badenweiler.  Farther  up  lies  Sohweighof  (1263  ft. ; 
*8onne')f  2  M.  from  Badenweiler,  much  resorted  to  by  visitors. 

About  3  H.  to  the  X.E.  of  Oberweiler  and  2V4  H.  to  the  N.W.  of 
Schweighof  rises  the  ruin  of  Jfeuer^/eU  (1975  ft.),  commanding  a  view  of 
Badenweiler,  the  Black  Forest,  and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine.  The  paths  to 
the  Brudermatt/elsen,  which  also  commands  an  excellent  view,  3  M.,  and 
to  Bad  auMurg  (p.  361),  4Vi  H.  to  the  N.E.  of  Schweighof,  are  indicated 
by  numerous  finger-posts. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Badenweiler  are  numerous  picturesque 
and  well-kept  *FoaBST-FATHs  leading  to  beautiful  points  of  view, 
which  will  be  easily  found  with  the  aid  of  the  following  directions. 

Proceeding  from  the  Bomerbad  to  the  right,  through  the  shady  garden 
of  the  castle  (open  to  the  public),  we  reach  0min.)  the  corner  of  a  wood 
on  the  Kandern  road,  where  a  ftnger-post  indicates  the  ascent  to  the 
Sophienruhe:  2  min.,  at  a  cross-way,  continue  to  ascend  in  a  straight 
direction^  at  the  (7  min.)  'Rondel""  turn  to  the  left;  7  min.,  turn  to  the 
left  again,  then  descend  slightly  to  the  left-,  3  min.,  the  ^Bophienruhe, 
an  open  space  on  the  outskirts  of  the  wood,  200  ft.  above  the  village,  com- 
manding a  more  picturesque  view  than  the  old  castle,  which  with  Baden- 
weiler itself  forms  a  beautiful  foreground. 

On  the  way  back,  2  min.  from  the  Sophienruhe,  a  broad  path  ascends 
to  the  left  through  wood,  crossing  the  road,  to  (6  min.)  the  road  to  the 
Blauen  and  to  the  (V4  hr.)  *Alte  Kann,  a  rocky  height,  accessible  by 
bridges  and  steps,  about  160  ft.  higher  than  the  Sophienruhe :  view  simi- 
lar, beautiful  wooded  foreground.  An  unimpeded  view  of  Badenweiler  is 
obtained  from  a  rock  farther  to  the  S.,  to  which  a  path,  passing  to  the 
right  of  the  hut,  leads  at  about  the  same  level. 

We  may  then  return  to  Badenweiler  by  the  Schubergsfelsen  or  by 
Haus  Baden.  The  SchvhergsfeUen^  another  point  of  view,  is  reached  in 
10  min.  by  a  path  which  gradually  ascends  to  the  N.  of  the  hut.  Farther 
on,  the  path  crosses  the  road  to  the  Blauen  and  leads  through  the  narrow, 
pine-claa  Vogelbachthal.  —  From  the  Alte  Mann  a  path  descends  in  wind- 
ings in  >/4  hr.  to  Haut  Baden  (*Inn),  formerly  a  miners'  tavern.  Baden- 
weiler, to  which  there  is  a  carriage-road,  lies  1  M.  to  the  N. 

Vdgisheim  (^Krone).  a  village  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  reached  from 
Badenweiler  by  a  shady  path  in  IV3  hr.,  is  another  pleasaut  object  for 
a  walk.    Auggen,  see  p.  361. 

F&oM  Badenwbilbb  to  BObobln  (61/2  M.).  The  best  route  is 
by  the  Kandern  road  to  (IY2  M.)  Sehringen.  About  V2  M-  father 
on,  a  path  diverges  to  the  right  beyond  the  ^Alpenansicht'  (Inn),  an 
open  spot  in  the  wood,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Bernese  Alps. 

"^Schloss  Bnrgeln  (2182  ft. ;  *Jnn)  was  formerly  a  chateau  of  the 
wealthy  Benedictine  abbey  of  St.  Blasien  (p.  384),  and  was  founded 
in  the  12th  century.  The  stag  which  figures  in  the  arms  of  St.  Bla- 
sien still  serves  as  a  weather-cock.  The  present  building,  adorned 
with  stucco-ornaments  and  figures  of  the  patrons  of  St.  Blasien, 
dates  from  1762.    The  church  is  used  for  Roman  Catholic  worship. 


Black  Forest.  BLAUEN.  48.  RouU.    379 

Biirgeln  commands  a  striking  and  uninterrupted  view,  resembling 
though  less  extensive  than  that  from  the  Blauen,  at  the  S.  base  of  which 
it  lies.  To  the  E.  are  seen  the  mountains  enclosing  the  Wiesenthal  (p.  881) ; 
S.E.  the  snow-dad  Alps  from  the  Scheerhom  to  the  Jungfrau  (see  be- 
low) ,  with  the  Jura  in  front  of  them :  in  the  foreground  well-wooded 
heights,  on  the  principal  of  which  Kandem  lies ;  farther  back  are  B&le, 
Htlningen,  Miilhausen,  and  the  Vosges. 

FKom  BGbgkln  to  the  Blauen.  An  easy  road,  not  to  be  mistaken, 
with  windings  which  may  be  avoided  by  pedestrians,  leads  to  the  top  in 
2  hrs.  (see  way-posts). 

About  3Vs  M.  to  the  S.  of  Burgeln  lies  Kandem  (1161  ft. ;  Oehs;  Blume), 
a  busy  little  town  with  1500  inhab.,  to  reach  which  a  pleasant  detour  of 
about  2Vs  hrs.  may  be  made  vi&  KdMaeker,  Vogelbachj  and  the  ruins  of 
Sausenburj^  (2182  ft. ;  key  at  Vogelbach),  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1678. 
A  new  path  leads  from  Kandern  to  the  Isteiner  Klotz  (p.  361).  —  From 
Kandem  to  (10  M.)  Ldrraeh^  diligence  twice  daily,  see  p.  382-,  to  (SVa  M.) 
Schliengen  (p.  361),  diligence  twice  daily. 

The  *Blanen  (3832  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  Black 
Foiest,  and  the  nearest  to  the  Rhine,  at  the  N.  base  of  which  Baden- 
weiler  lies,  is  easily  ascended  in  21/2  hours.  The  carriage-road,  di- 
verging to  the  left  from  the  Kandern  road  at  the  back  of  Badenweiler, 
cannot  be  missed.  About  V2^^*  ^fo>^  ^^^  ^P  ^^  &  spring  of  excellent 
water,  indicated  by  a  flnger-post.  Apparent  short-cuts  must  be 
avoided.  On  the  summit  are  an  inn,  and  a  wooden  tower  which  com- 
mands an  unimpeded  view  of  the  Alps  from  Glarnisch  to  the  Matter- 
horn  and  Mont  Blanc,  the  Jura,  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  the  Vosges, 
and  the  Black  Forest.  —  Direct  route  to  the  Belchen,  41/2-6  hours. 

h.  From  Badenweiler  to  the  Belohen»  and  through  the 
Xftntterthal  to  KrotsiJigen. 

One  day.  —  From  Badenweiler  to  the  Belohen  in  6  hrs.  (numeroas 
finger-posts }  horse  or  donkey,  see  p.  377) i  down  to  Neumiihl  2  hrs.;  thence 
to  (672  M.)  KroUingen,  where  the  diligence,  which  starts  from  Staufen^  may 
be  taken  for  the  last  stage. 

A  good  road  leads  to  the  B.  to  (2  M.)  Schweighof  (p.  378), 
where  the  Badenweiler  and  Oberweiler  roads  meet.  We  then  pro- 
ceed straight  on  through  forest-scenery,  foUo^^ing  the  course  of  the 
rapid  Klemmbaehf  to  the  (4  M.)  SimitZf  a  forester's  house  (lun)  in 
a  green  dale.  The  broad  road  now  ascends  to  the  left  along  the  N. 
slope,  and  reaches  (1^2  M.)  a  depression  where  the  Belchen  becomes 
visible.  Then  descend;  to  the  right  are  the  (^/^ M.)  huts  of  Ober- 
Heubronn,  where  flnger-posts  indicate  the  routes  to  Bad  Sulzburg 
and,  a  few  steps  farther  on,  to  the  Miinsterthal  (Staufen) ;  1/4  M. 
farther  is  another  post  indicating  the  route  to  the  Belchen,  to  the 
left;  after  about  120  paces,  ascend  in  a  straight  direction.  Beyond 
the  first  height  the  path  skirts  the  wood  to  the  left  in  order  to  reach 
the  opposite  slope,  avoiding  the  valley  by  a  long  circuit.  In  Y2  ^'• 
the  path  enters  the  wood;  1/4  hr.,  finger-post  'to  the Belchenhaus' ; 
10  min.,  an  open  eminence  with  a  hut;  26  min.,  last  saddle; 
20  min.,  the  Belohenrasthaus ;  10  min.,  sumntit.  [In  the  reverse 
direction  we  keep  to  the  right  at  the  Rasthaus,  at  first  ascending 
slightly  along  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  then  descending  in  zig- 


380    BouU4S.  BELOHEN.  Block  Forest. 

zags ;  50  min.  wood ;  20  min.  end  of  the  wood.  In  25  mln.  more 
we  le&ch  the  road  leading  to  the  lower  Mdnsterthal,  from  which  the 
(4  min.)  road  to  MuUheim  and  Badenweiler  by  the  Sirnitz  diYerges 
to  the  left.] 

The  "Selehen  (4641  ft.),  perhaps  the  flneat  point  of  view  in  the 
Black  Forest,  commands  a  most  pictaresque  and  uninterrupted  sur- 
Toy  of  the  surrounding  valleys,  especially  the  attractive  Milnster- 
thai  towards  the  W.,  the  Wiesenthal  to  the  S.,  and  the  Rhine  Valley 
stretching  far  into  the  distance  to  the  W.  In  clear  weather  a  magni- 
flcent  distant  prospect  is  enjoyed.  Four  mountain-chains  are  visible : 
to  the  E.  the  Black  Forest  with  its  numerous  peaks,  W.  the  Vosges, 
S.  the  Jura,  and  the  snow -clad  Alps.  About  10  min.  from  the 
summit  is  a  good  Rasthaus  (R.  &  B.  2^/2  m.;  post-office  and  tele- 
phone). 

Ascent  of  thk  Bblchen  from  Schonau  (p.  381)  in  the  Wiesenthal  (2V4 
hn.)'  Guide  unnecessary  (numerous  finger-posts).  A  road  ascends  to  the  right 
by  the  inn  Zur  Sonne;  after  8 min.,  turn  to  the  right  by  across;  16 min. 
ScMneberg;  a  little  farther  on,  in  a  straight  direction,  is  a  bare  eminence 
from  which  the  Alps  are  visible.  A  steep  path  ascends  thence  through 
wood  to  the  crest,  where  we  proceed  to  the  right,  eventually  over  grass,  to 
the  Rasthaus  (see  above). 

F&OM  THB  Bblchbn  TO  THB  Mt)N8TB&THAL  (zlgzag  descent  from 
the  Rasthaus,  3  hrs.).  After  35  min.  (Auf  der  Krinne),  we  reach 
a  broader  path  leading  from  the  Milnsterthal  to  Sch5nau,  which 
we  follow  to  the  left ;  40  min.  farther  the  first  houses  of  the  pic- 
turesque UnUr-MuntUrtkal,  watered  by  the  Roihbaeh,  We  con- 
tinue to  descend  the  valley,  passing  numerous  farm-houses;  Y2  ^^m 
Neumuhl  (Krone),  where  our  path  joins  the  road  from  Staufen  to 
Neiienweg  and  Schopfheim,  which  we  follow  to  the  right.  At 
(20  min.)  the  hamlet  of  Wasen  (see  below)  the  Staufeu  and  Schopf- 
heim road  unites  with  the  Ober-Munsterthal  road.  From  this  point, 
down  the  valley  of  the  Newmagen-Baeh^  to — 

3  M.  Staufen  (912  ft. ;  Badiseker  Hof;  Kreuz,  well  spoken  of), 
an  ancient  town  with  1820  inhab.,  overshadowed  by  the  ruined 
Staufenburgy  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race  which  became  extinct  in 
1602.  BathhauB  of  the  16th  century.  The  vineyards  on  the  hill 
yield  good  'Burghalder'  wine. 

Staufen  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Munsterthal.  The  rail- 
way station  of  Krotzingen  (p.  351)  is  3  M.  farther  (diligence  four 
times  daily  in  35  min.,  in  the  reverse  direction  45  min.). 

From  Staafen  to  Utzenfeld  in  the  Wiesenthal,  19  M.  To  (3  M.)  Wasen  see 
above.  Ascending  the  Ober-MHtutert/Ml  to  the  N.E. ,  towards  the  Schau- 
ins-Land,  we  pass  the  ancient  monastery  of  8t,  Trudpert,  and  reach  (4Vs  M.) 
the  inn  Am  Spieltoeg.  A  good  new  road  ascends  hence  in  long  windings 
towards  the  8.,  through  wild  and  romantic  scenery.  After  2  M.  the 
^Sehar/emtein^  a  precipitous  rock  of  porphyry,  crowned  by  the  scanty  re- 
mains of  a  robbers'  castle,  rises  on  the  left,  the  finest  point  on  the  route. 
The  road  then  reaches  (SVu  M.)  the  culminating  point  of  the  Wiedenereck 
(3396  ft.),  where  the  road  from  the  Schau-ins-Land,  mentioned  at  p.  350, 
ends.  [A  footpath  leads  hence  by  the  Krinne  (see  above)  to  (7Vc  M.)  the 


Black  ForeH.  TODTNAU.  48.  BouU,    381 


Belchen.]  The  road  descends  hence  in  numerous  windings  (commanding 
a  fine  view  of  the  Alps)  by  the  village  of  Wieden  (Hirsch)  and  past  scattered 
groups  of  houses,  to  (b/2  M.)  Utzen/eld  in  the  Wietenthal  (see  below). 


1.  Wiesenthal,  Wehrathal,  Albthal. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  376. 
Flan  of  Tour,  see  p.  371.  —  Diligence  between  Todtnau  and  ZeU 
(1273  M.) ,   twice  daily  (railway  under  construction) ;  Brennet,  Wehr,  and 
Schopfheim  (91/2  M.)>  once  daily;  Albbruck  and  St.  Blasien  (16  M.),  twice 
daily;  Waldshut  and  St.  Blasien  (15  M.),  once  daily. 

The  valleys  of  the  Wie*e,  the  Vitlvra^  and  the  Alb ,  are  three  of 
the  finest  in  the  Black  Forest.  The  latter  two  at  some  points  are 
worthy  of  oomparison  with  the  wildest  Alpine  ravines ,  while  the 
beauties  of  the  Wiesenthal  are  of  a  softer  character. 

^Wiesenthal.  The  source  of  the  Wieae  is  on  the  S.  slope  of  the 
Seebuck,  not  far  from  the  Feldberger  Hof.  Starting  thence,  our 
route  follows  its  left  bank ,  and  passes  Fahl  (2840  ft. ;  Adler),  a 
hamlet  near  which  thje  Bothwiese  (rising  near  the  Todtnauer  Hiitte) 
forms  a  picturesque  waterfall,  and  where  the  aboYe-mentioned  route 
to  the  Feldberg  diverges.  The  pleasant  Brandenberger  Thai,  en- 
livened with  a  few  solitary  habitations,  is  next  traversed  to  Todtnau 
(3  hrs.  from  the  Feldberghaus,  21/2  hrs.  from  the  Todtnauer  Hiitte). 

Todtnau  (2129  ft. ;  *Och9;  Bar;  Sonne;  one-horse  carr.  to 
Schonau  3-3V2  m. ,  ZeU  672-7  m. ,  Todtnauberg  10-12  m.)  is  a 
thriving  little  town  in  a  picturesque  situation,  almost  entirely 
rebuilt  since  a  destructive  fire  in  1876.  A  new  road  ascends  by 
the  Todtnauberger  Waterfall,  formed  by  the  Bergerbaeh  descending 
from  Todtnauberg  in  several  leaps,  altogether  300  ft.  in  height,  to 
Todtnauberg  (Stern ;  Engel ;  route  to  the  top  of  the  Feldberg ,  see 
p.  375),  from  which  we  may  return  to  Todtnau  hyAftersteg  (p.  372; 
a  circuit  of  9  M.).  Todtnauberg  has  of  late  become  a  summer  resort. 

The  road  leads  from  Todtnau  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Wiese. 
An  open  carriage  is  recommended  for  this  part  of  the  route  (rail- 
way under  construction ;  diligence,  see  above).  1 V2  ^'  ScMecht- 
nau;  ^/4M.  Qesehwend  (Rossle),  where  a  road  to  the  left  leads  by 
Prag  to  St.  Blasien  (p.  384),  or  to  Todtmoos  (p.  383).  The  road 
here  crosses  thePragbach,  and  then  the  Wiese  near  (1 1/2  M.)  Vtzen'^ 
feld  (Eiche),  where  the  Munsterthal  road  (see  above)  descends  from 
the  Wiedenereck.  Passing  through  8chbnenb%tchen,  we  next  reach 
(lV2M.)Schdnan  (1778  ft.;  "^Sonne;  Oeha;  Lowe;  Vier  LbvDen\ 
a  busy  little  town,  prettily  situated  and  attractive  for  a  short  stay, 
with  1301  inhab.  and  cotton-factories.  Ascent  of  the  Belehen,  see 
p.  380. 

Beyond  Schonau  the  road  winds  through  picturesque  rocky  ra- 
vines. From  (3/4  M.)  Wenibach,  with  its  extensive  cotton-factory, 
a  carriage-road  leads  W.  through  the  BoOenthal^  by  OberboUen^ 
Neuenweg,  and  Oberheubronn  (p.  379),  to  Oberweiler  and  MiUl- 
heim.    —    From  (41/2  M.)  Mambachj  also  with  a  cotton  factory,   a 


382    RouUdd.  SCHOPPHEIM.  Black  Foreit 

picturesque  new  route  leads  to  the  E.  through  the  Angenbach-Thal 
hy  Rohmatt  to  Todtmoos  (p.  383).  —  Our  road  next  reaches  (1 M.) 
Atzenbach  (Adler)  and  (li/a  M.)  — 

Zell  (1460  ft.;  Lowe;  Krone)  'im  Wiesenthal*,  a  prosperous 
manufacturing  place  with  2892inhab.,  and  important  spinning  and 
weaving  works.  The  *ZelUr  Blauen  (3519  ft. ;  11/2  ^'\  towards 
the  N.,  commands  a  magnificent  distant  view. 

Fbom  Zbll  to  Balb^  18  M.,  railway  in  1^4  hr.  (fares  2  m.  70, 
2  m.,  1  m.  35  pf.).  —  2  M.  Hausen  (Zur  Linde),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  stream,  where  Hebel  (b.  at  Baie  1760,  d.  1826),  the 
poet  of  the  Black  Forest,  spent  his  early  years.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  are  Roman  Catholics ,  those 
below  Hausen  Protestants.  A  Statue  of  Hdfel  was  erected  in  front 
of  the  church  in  1860.  Opposite  to  it,  to  the  right,  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  village ,  is  the  house  of  the  poet's  parents,  indicated  by  an 
inscription.  —  8V4  M.  Fahmau. 

41/4  M.  Behopfheim  (1230  ft. ;  ^Pflug,  R.  IVam.;  ^Drei  Kd- 
nige')  is  a  small  town  of  some  importance  (2733  inhab.),  with  con- 
siderable manufactories  of  cotton,  paper,  and  earthenware.  The 
HebeUhohe,  with  a  temple  and  bronze  bust  of  the  poet  Hebel,  is  a 
pleasant  spot  with  grounds,  ^2  ^*  ^^^  the  railway-station. 

The  Eiehemer  Bee^  2  H.  to  the  E.  of  Sehopfheim,  is  a  hollow  which 
is  periodically  filled  with  water ;  it  is  often  dry  for  years  together,  and  is 
then  cultivated  like  the  surrounding  country. 

High-road  from  Schopfheim  to  (IVi  H.)  Wehr  In  the  Wehrathal  (p.  383) ; 
diligence  hy  Wehr  to  (S'/s  M.)  Bretmet  (p.  384)  twice  daUy  in  f/i  hour. 

The  valley  continues  to  widen.  The  stream  is  employed  in  the 
irrigation  of  the  land  and  for  the  supply  of  numerous  mills  and 
factories.  6  M.  Maulburg ;  8M.  Steinen.  To  the  right  near  (11  M.) 
Haagen^  on  a  wooded  eminence ,  rises  *  Sehloss  Rotteln,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  Duchy,  commanding  a  fine  view,  once  the  residence 
of  the  Margraves  of  Hochberg ,  afterwards  that  of  the  Margraves  of 
Baden.  It  was  taken  by  Bernhard  of  Weimar  in  1638,  dismantled 
and  blown  up  by  the  French  in  1678,  and  restored  in  1867.  •Inn 
at  RoUlerweilerf  at  the  foot  of  the  castle,  1^2  ^-  ^^^m  Lorrach. 

13  M.  Ldmtch  (971  ft. ;  *Hiraeh,  or  Post),  the  most  Important 
place  in  the  valley,  with  6800  inhab.,  contains  extensive  shawl, 
cloth,  and  other  factories.  —  Post-omnibus  to  (10  M.)  Kandern, 
twice  daily  (see  p.  379). 

Beyond  (14  M.)  Stttten  the  line  enters  the  Swiss  canton  of  Bale. 
From  (15  M.)  Biehen  (928  ft.  ;  Ochs)  we  may  ascend  in  1/2  ^^'  *© 
the  hamlet  of  OberiuUingen  (Inn  zur  Schonen  Aussicht),  situated 
on  a  hill  which  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Baden  Oberland 
and  the  mountains  of  Alsace  and  Switzerland.  On  a  wooded  hill  to 
the  left  is  the  church  of  8t,  Chrisehona,  formerly  a  resort  of  pilgrims, 
now  a  Protestant  missionary  institution. 

18  M.  BdlCy  see  p.  352. 


modi  Form.  WEHRATHAL.  48.  Route,     383 

^Welinithal.  The  traveller  who  desires  to  descend  from  the 
Feldberg  to  the  Rhine  by  the  Wehraihal  should  proceed  to  Qetehwend 
(p.  381),  ascend  the  course  of  the  Prdgbaeh  towards  the  E.  by  the 
road  leading  through  the  Bernau  to  St.  Blasien  (comp.  p.  384), 
and  before  (3  M.)  Prag  (Hirsch)  is  reached  diverge  by  a  steep  and 
stony  road  to  the  right  to  Todtmoos.  Herrenschwand ,  situated  on  a 
wooded  height ,  remains  on  the  right ;  then  descend,  the  latter  half 
of  the  way  by  a  better  road,  to  (6  M.)  Vorder-Todtmoos  (2693  ft. ; 
^AdlcTj  R.  1Y2>  ^'  2  m.,  well  spoken  of;  Loire),  a  village  in  the 
Wehrathal,  with  a  loftily-situated  church,  much  resorted  to  by  pil- 
grims from  the  S.  portion  of  the  Black  Forest  and  from  Switzer- 
land. A  variety  of  curious  costumes  may  be  observed  here  on  Sun- 
days and  festivals.  The  Wehra  rises  on  the  Hochkopfj  3  M.  to 
the  N.  of  Todtmoos ,  and  is  rapidly  filled  by  numerous  affluents. 
A  picturesque  new  road  leads  from  Todtmoos  to  the  W.  to  Mam- 
bach  in  the  Wiesenthal  (p.  381);  another  to  the  S.  goes  to  Herrisch- 
ried,  etc.  (see  p.  386). 

To  St.  Blasien  (iOVz  H.)*  The  road  ascends  in  windings  to  the  E., 
affording  fine  retrospective  views ;  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  Alps  is  en- 
joyed before  the  culminating  point  is  attained.  The  descent  is  by  Muttera- 
lehen  (Hirsch),  and  through  the  8teinachthal.    St  Blasien,  see  below. 

The  next  village  in  the  Wehrathal  is  (3M.)  TodlmooS'Au{\nn\ 
commonly  called  the  Au,  whence  the  Wehra-StrasaCy  a  good  road 
constructed  chiefly  for  the  transport  of  timber  in  1848-50,  descends 
to  (9  M.)  Wehr.  It  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  an  inundation 
in  1850,  but  has  been  restored.  This  portion  of  the  ♦♦Wehra- 
Thal  is  a  magnificent  rocky  ravine,  the  most  striking  of  all  the 
valleys  in  the  Black  Forest,  and  hardly  surpassed  in  picturesqueness 
and  variety  by  the  most  famous  in  Switzerland.  The  bold  pine- 
crowned  cliffs  enclosing  the  valley  are  clothed  with  luxuriant  vege- 
tation ,  broken  here  and  there  by  imposing  masses  of  barren  rock. 
At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  the  rivulet  dashes  impetuously  over  the 
blocks  of  granite  which  obstruct  its  narrow  channel,  frequently  leav- 
ing but  little  space  for  the  road.  The  most  striking  point  is  about 
half-way,  at  a  bridge  which  carries  the  road  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
Wehra.  On  a  precipitous  cliff  to  the  left  at  the  outlet  of  the  valley 
rises  the  ruin  of  BdrcnfeU.  There  is  no  inn  between  Todtmoos- 
Au  and  — 

9M.  Wehr  (1207  ft. ;  Krone;  AdUr),  an  industrial  village  with 
2909  inhab.,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of  Werrach. 

In  a  grassy  dale  which  opens  near  the  N.W.  houses  of  Wehr  is 
situated  the  Erdmdnnleinhdhle ^  a  stalactite  cavern,  1^2  M.  from 
Wehr,  and  1/2  M.  from  the  village  of  Easel  (1321  ft. ;  Zur  Erd- 
mannleinhohle).  The  cavern  is  also  Interesting  to  the  zoologist 
on  account  of  its  white  flies  and  blind  white  spiders.  The  inn- 
keeper at  Basel  keeps  the  key  (fee  for  1  pers.  1V2™»>  2pers.  2  m.). 

A  good  road  leads  direct  from  Hasel  to  Schop/h€im  (p.  8©),  travellers 
hound  for  which  need  not  return  to  Wehr. 


384    Route  48.  ST.  BLASIEN.  Blade  Forest, 

Beyond  (SM.)  Oeflingen^  the  road  reaches  stat.  Srennei  (SVz^* 
from  Wehr;  diligence,  see  p.  382),  on  the  Bale-Waldshut  railway 
(p.  386).  

AitBTHAL.  Another  very  interesting  route  is  that  from  the 
Feldherg  to  St.  Blasien ,  and  through  the  Alhthal  to  the  railway. 
From  the  Feldberg  down  to  (IVj  hr.)  Menzenschwand ,  seep.  375. 

Kenzexiflchwand  consists  of  Hinter-Menzenschwand  (4431  ft. ; 
Hlrsch)  and  Vorder-Menzenachwand  (4254  ft. ;  •Adler).  About  6  M. 
farther  down  the  Albthal  (good  road)  lies  — 

St.  Blasien.  —  Hotels.  ^HdincL  St.  Blasien,  in  the  abbey-buildings, 
with  two  dependencies,  one  called  *Friedrich-nnd-L\u8en-Rah\  B.  from 
1V«,  B.  1,  D.  3,  board  for  a  long  stay  from  5  m.  (R.  extra);  *Kbons,  B., 
L.,  4e  A.  2  m. ;  HiBSCH.  —  Gaskiaob  to  Albbruck  or  Waldshut  20  m.,  to 
Brennet  through  the  Wehrathal  25-90  m.  —  Diligences,  see  pp.  371,  381. 

8t.  Blasien  (2532  ft.) ,  a  village  with  1219  inhab. ,  was  once 
celebrated  for  its  wealthy  and  learned  Benedictine  abbey ,  founded 
in  the  middle  of  the  10th  cent,  and  secularised  in  1805,  and  is  now 
frequently  resorted  to  as  summer- quarters  owing  to  its  healthy  situa- 
tion, which  affords  an  agreeable  mixture  of  mountain  and  forest  air. 
The  possessions  of  the  abbey  extended  over  the  whole  of  the  S. 
part  of  the  Black  Forest;  in  1611  it  attained  the  freedom  of  the 
Empire,  and  in  1746  its  abbot  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  prince 
of  the  Empire.  The  magnificent  library  was  seriously  injured  by  a 
fire  in  1786,  and  the  volumes  that  escaped  were  afterwards  removed 
to  Heidelberg.  The  buildings  are  now  used  partly  as  an  hotel  and  ' 
partly  as  a  cotton-mill.  The  church,  built  in  1786,  after  the  model 
of  the  Pantheon,  was  almost  entirely  burned  down  in  1874,  but  has 
been  restored.  The  Calvarienherg  and  Sandboden  (8/4  hr.),  with 
fine  views,  the  Tuseulum  waterfall  (10  min.),  the  Windberg  FalU 
(V2  lir.),  and  other  points  in  the  environs  afford  pleasant  walks. 
The  Chasse  of  St.  Blasien  contains  numerous  roe-deer  and  winged 
game,  and  good  trout-fishing  may  be  enjoyed  in  the  Alb  and  the 
Steinach. 

To  SCHLUCHSEE  (9  M.),  Bte  p.  376*,  diligence,  p.  371.  The  shorter  route 
by  Blasiwald  is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  4  min.  below  the  Krone  Inn,  on 
the  left  of  the  Albthal  road. 

Feom  Feeibuko  to  St.  Blasien,  see  pp.  371-376;  pbom  Todtmoos, 
see  p.  3^.  —  Fkom  the  Wiesenthal.  A  road  leads  from  Oeschwend  (p.  381) 
to  (12  M.)  St.  Blasien  by  Pr&g^  where  the  road  to  Todtmoos  div^es  to 
the  right ;  sequestered  valleys  are  traversed  to  the  top  of  the  pass  (3200  ft.)  *, 
the  road  then  descends  through  the  Bemau ,  a  grassy  valley  with  several 
hamlets,  to  St.  Blasien.  From  the  diligence-station  Bemau  (Adler)  a  dili- 
gence plies  daily  to  (6  H.)  St.  Blasien.  The  road  unites  with  that  from 
Menzenschwand  at  a  1)ridge  over  the  Albbach^  3  H.  from  St.  Blasien. 

From  St. Blasien  to  (16  M.)Albbruck,  diligence  twice  daily  (p.  381). 

As  far  as  (6  M.)  Immeneich  (p.  385)  the  valley  is  uninteresting.  The 

traveller  should  therefore  follow  the  Schluchsee  road  diverging  about 

3/4  M.  from  St.  Blasien,  and  then,  before  reaching  the  scattered 

^Uage  of  (IY2  M.)  flau«ern  (Adler ;  Deutscher  Kaiser),  take  the 


Black  Forest,  ALBTHAL.  48,  RouU.    385 

road  to  the  right,  which  leads  to  (l^/a  M.)  Hochenschwand.  Pedes- 
trians should  follow  the  'Alte  Strasse',  indicated  by  the  finger-post. 

Hoohensohwand  (3326  ft. ;  *H$tel  Hochenschwand,  D.  2V2-3, 
*pens.'  6-8  m.;  Hirschj  Krone,  unpretending),  one  of  the  highest 
villages  in  Baden ,  where  straw-plaiting  is  extensively  carried  on, 
has  lately  come  into  notice  as  a  health-resort.  From  the  ^Belvedere, 
5  min.  from  the  village,  a  magnificent  view  is  enjoyed,  comprising 
the  Algau  and  Vorarlberg  Mts.,  and  the  entire  chain  of  the  Alps. 
The  sunsets  are  often  superb.    Key  and  panorama  at  the  hotel. 

To  regain  the  Albthal,  the  direct  footpath,  descending  rapidly  to 
Immeneieh  (Adler) ,  may  be  taken.  The  better  route ,  however, 
is  by  a  carriage-road,  commanding  views  of  the  Alps,  by  (IY4M.) 
Frohnschwand  and  (1  M.)  Tiefenhausem.  About  ^4  M.  farther  on 
our  way  (easily  overlooked)  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  high-road, 
and  we  next  reach  (Y2  M.)  Brurhadem  and  (IV2  ^*)  Niedermuhle 
(Inn),  on  the  Albthal  road,  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Immeneieh. 

From  this  point  downwards  the  *  Albthal  becomes  narrower  and 
wilder.  The  road,  designed  almost  exclusively  for  the  carting  of 
timber,  passes  between  perpendicular  rocks,  high  above  the  impetuous 
brook,  and  affords  occasional  views  of  the  grand  and  rocky  ravine. 
The  most  Imposing  part  of  the  route  is  beyond  Tiefenstein  (Krone, 
mnch  frequented;  restaurant  near  the  bridge),  situated  on  the 
right  bank,  about  5  M.  below  Niedermuhle.  Beyond  Tiefenstein 
five  tunnels  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  About  2  M. 
•farther  on  we  pass  the  *H6tel  Zum  Hohenfels,  charmingly  situated 
high  above  the  river.  Near  (2  M.)  Albhruck  (p.  386),  on  the  Bale- 
Waldshut  Railway,  the  valley  opens  into  that  of  the  Rhine. 

49.  From  Bile  by  Schaffhausen  to  Constance. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  376. 

90  M.  Railway  in  3»/4-B  hrs.  (fares  11  m.  60,  7  m.  70  pf.,  5  m.).  Views 
on  the  right. 

B6le ,  see  p.  352.  The  line  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  the 
Rhine,  which  here  flows  in  a  channel  of  considerable  depth.  33/4M. 
Orenzach,  where  excellent  'Markgrafler*  (p.  351)  is  produced.  5  M. 
WyhUn;  71/2  M.  Herihen.  The  line  now  approaches  the  Rhine, 
which  dashes  impetuously  over  rocks  and  stones,  forming  the  Hollen- 
haken  and  other  rapids.  Salmon  are  caught  here  in  large  quantities. 
The  opposite  Swiss  bank  is  precipitous  and  wooded.  —  9^2  M.  Bei 
Bheinfelden  (♦Bellevue,  with  salt-baths ;  Railway  Hotel).  —  The 
Swiss  town  of  Bheinfelden  (866  ft.  ;  *H6Ul  des  Salines,  1/4  M. 
above  the  station ;  *Hdtel  Dietschy,  with  gardens  on  the  Rhine ; 
Schutzen ;  Schiff^  all  with  salt-baths),  was  in  ancient  times  strongly 
fortified  and  repeatedly  besieged.  Since  1801  it  has  belonged  to 
Switzerland.  Within  the  last  20  or  30  years  numerous  visitors  have 
been  attracted  to  Rheinfelden  by  its  strong  saline  spring,  and  by 
the  protection  its  situation  affords  against  the  cold  N.  winds. 

Basdbksb's  Rhine.  10th  Edit.  25 


386    Route  49.  SAC&INGEN.  From  BdU 

To  the  right  of  (12  M.)  Bcuggen  (909  ft.)  is  a  fonner  lodge  of 
the  Teutonic  Order,  used  since  1817  as  a  seminary  for  teachers  and 
reformatory  for  children.  —  15  M.  Niederaekworstadt,  —  1772  M. 
Brennet  (Zum  Wehrathal;  Krcusjj  the  station  for  the*  Wehrastrasae 
(see  p.  383). 

2OV2  M.  S&okingen  (958  ft.;  Schiitzc;  Lowe  or  Badgaathof; 
beer  at  the  Schwane  Wallfiieh ;  Knopf,  with  a  terrace  on  the  Rhine, 
and.  unpretending  restaurant),  a  manufacturing  town  with  3500 
inhah.,  possesses  an  old.  abbey-church  with  two  towers,  restored  in 
the  17th  cent. ,  which  contains  the  remains  of  St.  Fridolin ,  the 
apostle  of  this  district.  The  abbey,  subsequently  a  nunnery,  was 
secularised  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century.  The  chiteau 
of  SMnau  on  the  Rhine,  alluded  to  in  Seheffers  'Trompeter  von 
Sackingen',  is  now  private  property.  The  river  here  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge.  — Excursion  to  the  (iy2M.)  Schwarzsee  ot  ScheffeUee, 
to  the  N.  of  the  station,  on  the  road  to  Ileirischried  (see  below). 

To  the  left  of  the  railway  stands  the  new  church  of  Ober- 
Sdckingcn.  —  24  M.  Afur^  (1025  ft. ;  Zum  Murgthal),  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  stream  of  that  name.  A  new  road  ascends  the  pictur- 
esque valley  of  the  Murg  to  (67*  M.)  Hottingen  (Sonne),  about  half- 
way to  which,  on  a  hill  to  the  left,  rises  the  Harpolinger  Scfdost. 
Beyond  Hottingen  the  road  leads  to  (3  M.)  Herritchried  and 
(71/2  M.  farther)  Vorder-Todtmoos  (p.  383). 

Opposite  (267*  M.)  KUin-Lauftnhurg  (*Po8t,  unpretending)  is 
the  Swiss  town  of  Laofenburg  {Rheimoolbad,  with  salt-baths  and  a 
terrace  on  the  river ;  beer  at  the  Pfau,  with  *View),  picturesquely 
placed  on  the  left  bank,  with  its  ancient  castle,  below  which  the 
Rhine  dashes  impetuously  over  its  narrow  and  rocky  bed.  These 
rapids  have  more  than  once  been  successfully  navigated,  but  the 
experiment  Is  of  course  extremely  perilous. 

The  eighth  Lord  Montagu,  the  last  of  hi«  family,  perished  here  in  1793, 
and  by  a  singular  coincidence  his  ancestral  mansion  of  Gowdray  House 
in  Sussex  was  burned  down  almost  on  the  same  day,  and  has  never 
been  rebuilt.  Below  the  cataract,  salmon  are  caught  in  considerable  num- 
bers. Down  to  1808  Klein-Laufenburg  and  Gross -Laufenburg  formed  a 
single  Austrian  town,  but  the  former  now  belongs  to  Baden,  the  latter  to 
Switzerland.    *View  of  Oross-Laufenburg  from  the  Schlossberg. 

The  line  passes  through  a  tunnel,  and  beyond  (2872  M.)  AlhcH- 
Hauenstein  crosses  a  lofty  viaduct. 

30  M.  Albbruck  (1017  ft. ;  *Zum  Albtkat),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
*AU)thal  (p.  384).  —  3272  M.  Dogern. 

35  M.  Waldshut  {SchaeizUj  near  the  station ;  H6tel  Blum^  Reb^ 
stocky  Rheinischer  Hof,  in  the  town),  the  most  important  of  these 
small  towns  on  the  Rhine,  with  2608  inhab.,  lies  at  a  considerable 
height  above  the  river.  Railway  to  Turgi  (Zurich)  and  Winterthur, 
see  Baedekers  Switzerland.  —  Quitting  Waldshut,  the  train  passes 
through  a  tunnel,  and  skirts  the  hills  to  the  left. 

38  M.  Thiengen  ('^ronc  ,•  Ochs),  an  industrial  town  with  2230 
inhabitants. 


to  Constance,      FALLS  OF  THE  RHINE.      49,  Boute,    387 

A  new  road  from  Thiengen  up  the  *'Sotalii«httlutl  (diligence  to  Schluch- 
see  via  Birkesdorf  onoe  dftily  in  5V4  hn.))  offers  an  interesting  walk  for 
part  of  the  way.  At  (2  U.)  the  Bruekhaus  inn  (baths)  a  covered  bridge 
crosses  tbe  ravine;  Vs  ^-  farther  on  a  path  descends  to  the  left  to  the 
Baselbach  Water/all^  V*  M.  beyond  which  is  the  OuUenburg  saw-mill 
at  the  foot  of  a  rock  crowned  with  a  small  rained  castle.  About  2V«  H. 
farther  on  is  the  Witznauer  Kiihla  (1394  ft. ;  "^Inn),  at  the  junction  of  the 
Schliichtthal  and  Schwarzathal.  From  this  point  the  Schlfichtthal  vies 
in  picturesque  beauty  with  the  Wehrathal  and  the  Albthal.  On  each 
side  are  lofty  and  partly-wooded  rocks.  At  one  place  the  stream  occupies 
the  whole  width  of  the  valley,  so  that  at  its  junction  with  the  Metttna  a 
passage  for  the  new  road  had  to  be  hewn  through  the  rocks.  —  Farther 
on  the  valley  again  expands.  —  9  M.  (from  Thiengen)  Uhlingen  (2119  ft. ; 
Posthorn).  —  12  M.  5t>*e»dor/ (2582  ft.;  Hirsch:  Post).  —  15  M.  QraUn- 
haiuen  (2943  ft.;  Hirsch).  --^1673  M.  Eoihhaus  (3189  ft.;  Inn).  ~  ISVs  K. 
Schlvchseey  see  p.  376. 

411/4  M.  Oberlauchringenj  where  the  Wutach  is  crossed. 

Fbom  Obbblauchbingen  TO  Weizbk,  I2V2M.,  railway  in  52  min.  (fares 
1  m.  70,  1  m.  20,  75  pf.).  —  The  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Wutaeh. 
iVi  M.  Jlorheim;  4Jy^M.  0/teringen;  5V2  M.  Untereggingen;  8  M.  Eberfingen. 
IOV2  M.  Stiihlingen  (Hirsch;  Adler),  an  ancient  town,  commanded  by  a 
castle,  affording  fine  views.  Pleasant  excursions  thence  to  Schleitheim^ 
Unterhallau,  etc.  Excavations  in  an  old  Roman  camp  near  Schleitheim 
have  brought  to  light  a  number  of  interesting  antiquities.   I2V2  M.  Weizen. 

The  train  crosses  the  Wutach.  The  ruined  castle  of  Kiissenberg, 
on  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  right,  Is  now  passed.  —  45  M.  Oriessen, 
Beyond  (48  M.)  Erzingen,  the  train  enters  Sifsiss  territory.  49  M. 
Wilchingen;  5JL  M.  Neurikirch;  55  M.  Beringen, 

571/2 M.  HenhauBen,  station  for  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine.  —Hotels. 
*ScHWEiZEBHOF,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  5-6,  D.  4-5  fr.,  well  managed  (no  gratuities), 
with  large  garden  and  beautiful  views  of  the  falls  and  the  Alps ;  Bellb- 
VDE,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  8-4,  D.  31/2  fr.  Omnibuses  from  these  (IV2  fr.)  to  and 
from  the  steamboats  and  the  railway  station  at  Schaffhausen.  —  In  the 
village  of  Ifeuhausen :  *H6tel  Rheinfall,  *Rheinhop,  with  baths,  mod- 
erate. —  In  summer  the  falls  are  illuminated  every  evening  with  electric 
light,  for  which  a  charge  of  1  fr.  is  made  in  each  bill. 

The  *FallB  of  the  Bhine,  one  of  the  finest  cascades  in  Europe, 
locally  called  the  'Laufen',  descend  In  three  leaps  over  a  ledge  of 
rock  of  unequal  height.  The  breadth  of  the  river  above  the  falls  is 
about  126  yds.  The  height  of  the  umbroken  fall  is  62  ft.  near  the 
left  bank  and  49  ft.  by  the  right.  If  the  rapids  above  and  below 
are  taken  into  consideration  the  whole  fall  is  nearly  100  ft.  high. 
The  river  Is  largest  in  June  and  July,  owing  to  the  melting  of  the 
snow.  On  a  wooded  rock  high  above  the  falls,  on  the  left  bank,  is 
the  picturesquely-situated  Schloss  Laufsn  (*Inn),  the  garden  of 
which  affords  the  best  points  of  view,  viz,  the  Pavilion^  the  Kdn&liy 
and  In  particular  the  FischetZy  a  gallery  projecting  almost  into  the 
roaring  cataract  (adm.  1  fr.  each ;  no  gratuity).  —  From  the  Nku- 
HAUSBN  Station  we  descend  through  the  pleasure-grounds  to  the 
Scklosschen  Worth  (restaurant;  ferry  50  c.)  which  commands  a  su- 
perb view  of  the  falls.  "We  then  visit  the  different  points  of  view 
at  Schloss  Laufen,  and  return  by  the  Rheinfallbriicke  to  Neuhau- 
sen.    Gomp.  Baedeker' a  Switzerland, 

59Y2  M.  Sohaffhausen. —Hotels. *Rh£INISCheeHof, Hotel HiiLLEB, 

25* 


388     RouU49,  CONSTANCE. 

RiBSB,  all  near  the  station;  in  the  town,  *Kronb,  R.  S^/t  f r.  ^  *Pobt; 
Schwan;  "Takhb,  Sohiff,  unpretending.  —  *R€tilwip  lUttauramt. 

Schaffhausen  (1296  ft.),  a  picturesque  old  town  with  11,800  In- 
hab.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  the  capital  of  the  Swiss  canton 
of  the  same  name,  was  formerly  a  free  Imperial  city,  and  still  re- 
tains many  of  its  ancient  characteristics.  The  early-Romanesque 
Munatefy  a  basilica  supported  by  columns,  was  built  in  1052-1101, 
and  has  lately  been  restored.  The  massive  tower  of  8chlo88  Munoth 
dates  from  the  12th  and  16th  cent,  (view  from  the  top).  The  Fasen- 
stauh  Promenade  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Alps. 

62  M.  Herblingen ;  65  M.  Thayingen.  The  train  now  re-enters 
Baden.  68  M.  Oottmadingen.  72  M.  Singen  (^Kront;  EkkehardJ, 
the  junction  of  the  Black  Forest  Railway  (R.  48d)  and  of  the  Upper 
Neckar  line  fsee  Baedeker  s  S.  Germany), 

About  2  U.  to  tbe  V.W.,  on  an  iaolated  basaltic  rock,  rises  the  for- 
tress of  *Hohentwiel  (2267  ft.),  an  ^enclave'  of  Wurtemberg  within  the 
Bavarian  dominions,  which  was  bravely  and  successfully  defended  by  the 
Wurtemberg  commandant  Wiederhold  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The 
grand  ruins  command  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Tyrolese  and  Swiss  Alps  aa 
far  as  Mont  Blanc.  A  guide  and  the  keys  of  the  tower  are  procured  at 
the  "Inn  half-way  up. 

751/2  M.  RiekeUhausen,  —  78  M.  BadoIfkeU  C^Schif;  Sonne), 
an  ancient  town,  with  walls,  gates,  and  a  handsome  Gothic  church 
dating  from  1436,  is  situated  on  the  Untersee,  In  the  middle  of  the 
lake  is  the  island  of  Reichenau^  connected  with  the  E.  bank  by  a 
long  embankment.  The  church  of  the  Benedictine  Abbey  of  Rei- 
chenau  now  serves  as  the  parish  church  of  the  village  of  Mittelzell 
or  Munater.  The  line  intersects  the  tongue  of  land  between  the 
Unterseeand  the  Ueherlinger-See,  80  M.  Markelfingen;  888/4  M. 
AUenshach;  87  M.  Reichenau  (island  to  the  right).  The  train  crosses 
the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge  and  stops  at  — 

90  M.  CoBltanee*  —  Hotols.  ^Konstanzbr  Hof,  on  the  K.  bank  of 
the  lake,  with  a  large  garden,  baths,  etc.,  B.  3,  B.  iVi?  !>•  S'/s;  ^pens.'  from 
51/2  ni. ;  ^Insel  Hotel,  in  tne  old  Dominican  monastery,  with  a  garden, 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  3  m.  20,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D.  SVs  m-;  both  these  have  a  view 
of  the  lake  \  *Hecht,  R.  2,  D.  3  m.;  ^HdrBL  Halm  ,  opposite  the  station, 
R.  and  A.  2V2,  B.  1  m. ;  'Baoischeb  Hof  ;  Ebone,  Scbiff,  and  Falke,  se- 
cond-class. 

Constance  (1335  ft.),  with  13,400  inhah.,  a  free  town  of  the 
Empire  down  to  1548,  lies  at  the  N.W.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance, at  the  efflux  of  the  Rhine.  The  Cathedral^  with  its  inter- 
esting sculptures  and  rich  treasury,  the  Stadt-Kanzlei  (frescoes 
outside),  the  old  Kaufhaus  with  the  Council  Chamber  (also  adorned 
with  frescoes),  and  the  Roagarien  Museum  are  the  chief  attractions. 
Pleasant  excursion  to  the  island  of  Mainau  (IV2  ^r.),  formerly  the 
seat  of  a  commandery  of  the  Teutonic  Order  and  now  a  summer  re- 
sidence of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Baden.  For  fuller  details  see  Bae- 
deker's 8,  Oermanyj  or  Baedeker^a  Switzerland, 


INDEX. 


Aachen  4. 

Aar  Vallev.  the  206. 
Abenden  14. 
Acher,  the  342.  367.  359. 
Achcrn  342. 
Adenau  89.  190.  l91. 
Adolphseck,  ruin  135. 
Adolphshohe  (Oaub)  113. 
—  (Wienbaden)  141. 
Aeule  375. 
Aftersteg  372.  381. 
Agger,  the  55. 
Aglasterhaugen  251. 
Ahbach,  the  191. 
Ahr,  the  63.  69.  85.  190. 
Ahr,  Valley  of  the  85.  68. 
Ahrweiler  87. 
Ahiitte  191. 
Aix-Ia-Chapelle  4. 
Alb,  the  375.  384. 
AlberschweilerThal  300. 
Albersweiler  275. 
Albbruck  386. 
Albersbach  374. 
AlbeH-Hauenstein  386. 
Albig  260.  261. 
Albisheim  262. 
Albshausen  207. 
Albshelm  262. 
Albthal  385. 
Aldegund  183. 
Aldekerk  48. 
Alexanderschanze,    the 

361.  360. 
Alf  185.  183. 
— ,  the  185. 

AlfthaL  the  184. 194. 195. 
Aiken  180. 
Allensbach  388. 
Allerheiligen  359. 
Allerheiligenberg,  the 

Allner,  castle  55. 
Alpersbacher  Thai  370. 
Alpirsbach  364. 
AlsbacherSchloss.the  234. 
Alsdorf  13. 
Alsenz  157. 
— ,  the  157. 
Alaheim  256. 
Alspach  313. 
Altarstein,  the  238. 


Alt-Breisach  360. 

Alt-Eberstein  339. 

Alte  Burg  (Ahr  valley)  89. 

(near  Boppard)  107. 

Alte  Haus,  the  205. 
Alte  Hann,  the  378. 
Altena  54. 
Altenahr  8a  190. 
Altenbach  321. 
Altenbamberg  157. 
Altenbaumburg,  the  157. 
Altenberg  (near  Bergisch- 

Gladbach)  23. 
—  (on  the  Lahn)  207. 
— ,  the  304.  317. 
Altenburg  (Ahr)  89. 
— ,  the  (Moselle)  179. 
— ,  —  (Soonwald)  169. 
Altenglan  270. 
Altenhainer  Thai  227. 
Altenhundem  54. 
Altenkirchen  T^. 
Altenweg  373. 
Altglashiitte  376. 
Altkirch  296. 
Altkonig,  the  228. 
Altluasheim  262. 
Alt-Hunsterol  298. 
Altrlch  184. 
Altflchweier  341. 
Altweler  309. 
Altwied  66. 
Alt-Windeck  341. 
Alzette,  the  176.  177. 
Alzey  261. 

AmanvUIers  165.  166. 
Amelen  13. 
Ammerschweier  312. 
Amorbach  241. 
Ampfersbach  317. 
Am  Thurm  365. 
Andel  188. 

Andemach  64.  69.  73. 
Andlau  307. 
Anebos,  ruin  277. 
Angenbachthal,  the  382. 
Annaberg  340. 
Annathal  72. 
Annweiler  276. 
Anrath  51. 
Ana  2. 
Antogast  361. 


Antoniusstein,  ruins  92. 
Antweiler  89. 
Apollinarisberg  61. 
Apollinarisbrunnen  86. 
Apollinariskirche,  the  61. 

19.  72. 
Appel,  the  157. 
Appenthal  269. 
Appenweier  342. 
Ardeck  206. 
Aremberg  89. 
Arenberg  101. 
Arenfels  68.  72.  63. 
Ariendorf  63.  73. 
Armsheim  260.  261. 
Amhem  17. 
Amsburg  288. 
Arnstein,  monast.  204. 
Arras,  Burg  194. 
Ars-sur-Moselle  167. 
Arzbacher  Kopfe  203. 
Arzweiler  Tunnel  290. 
Asbach  251. 
Asbacher  Thai  84. 
Ascha£fenbnrg  242. 
Aspach  322. 
Asselheim  262. 
Assmannshausen  118. 133. 
Astenet  3. 
Asterstein,  the  100. 
Attenbach  65. 
Attendorn  54. 
Attert,  the  177. 
Atzenbach  382. 
Au  (Murgthal)  365. 
—  (Siegthal)  56. 
Aubure  309. 
Aue  322. 
Auerbach  235. 
Auggen  361. 
Augustahohe,  the  103. 
Augusthohe.  the  72. 
Aulhausen  128. 
Aumenau  207. 
Auringen-Medenbach  229. 
Auw  193. 
Avolsheim  303. 
Avricourt  291. 

Baal  50. 

Babenhausen  240. 
Bacharach  114.  130. 


390 


INDEX. 


Baden  332. 

Bftdener  Hohe.  the  338. 
BadenweUer*376. 
Baderlei,  tbe  308. 
Baaenbronn  366. 
Baldeneltz,  castle  181. 
Baldenweger  Hiitte  374. 
Balduinstein  305. 
B&le  362. 
Balkhausen  238. 
Balkhauser  Thai  237. 
Ballersteinkopf  208. 
Ballon  d' Alsace  822. 

—  de  Servance  322. 

—  de  Soulta  321. 
Bammenthal  251. 
Ban  de  la  Boche  301 
Bannstein  288. 
Banzenheim  298. 
Barbelroth  266. 
Barbelstein  278. 
Barenfels,  ruin  383. 
Barenhalde,  the  363. 
Barenhtitte  313. 
Barenthal,  the  (near  Nie- 

derbronn)  288. 
— ,  —(Black  Forest) 374. 
Barhalde,  the  375. 
Barl,  the  185. 
Barmen  52. 
Baroche,  La  314. 
Barr  303. 
Bartenheim  299. 
Barweiler  191. 
Basel  352. 
Bassenheim  67. 
Bastberg,  the  290. 
Battert,  the  339. 
Baadreconrt  291. 
Bausenberg,  the  92. 
Bayerfeld  167. 
B^chine,  the  314. 
Beckingen  168. 
Bedburg  14. 
Beekhuizen  17. 
Beerfelden  242. 
Beilstein  182. 
Belcfaen,  the  380. 
— ,  Kleine  318. 
— ,  Snlzer  321. 
— ,  Walsche  322. 
Belfort  298. 
Bell  93. 
Bellevue  308. 
Bellheim  275. 
Bellingen  351. 
Belmont  301. 
Bendorf  67.  74. 
Benfeld  294. 
Bengel  184. 
Beningen  162.  289. 
Bennweier  294. 
Henrath  23. 


Bensberg  23.  67. 
Benadorf  291. 
Bensheim  236. 
Beran  376. 
Berohem  168. 
Berg  276. 

Bergerbach,  the  361. 
Berghausen  274.  323. 
Bergheim  16. 
Bergisch-Gladbach  23. 
Bergstein  14. 
— ,  the  286. 
Bergstrasse,  the  234. 
Bergsabem  266. 
Berlngen  387. 
Bermeringen  291. 
Bermersbach  366. 
Bemau  384. 
— ,  the  384. 
Bembach  331. 
Berncastei  187. 
Bemeck  364. 
— ,  the  365. 
Bernstein,  ruin  804. 
Berthelmingen  291. 
Bertrich  194. 
Besenfeld  356. 
Besselich,  Haus  67. 
Bessungen  230.  234. 
Betteldorf  196. 
Bettemburg  168. 
Bettendorf  175. 
BettenfeM  189. 
Betzdorf  54.  56. 
Beuel  77.  75. 
Beuggen  386. 
Beul  86. 

Beurener  Thai  338. 
Beurig  169. 
Bewingen  191. 
Bexbach  270. 
Bexthal  73. 
Beybachthal,  the  180. 
Biberach  363. 
Biblis  222.  234. 
Bickenbach  234.  237. 
Biebermiihle  276. 
Biebemheim  109. 
Biebesheim  222. 
Biebrich  126.  133. 
Bierbach  270. 
Biewer  185. 

Bildstock  Tunnel,the  161. 
Bilstein  309. 
Binau  261. 

Bindersbach,  the  276. 
Bingen  119.  130. 
Bingerbriick  119.  121. 

130.  132. 
Binger  LoQh,  the  118. 
Bingert  157. 
Binsenwasen,  the  340. 
Birkenau  236.  239. 


Birkendorf  387. 
Birkenfeld  (Nahe)  160. 

—  (near  Pforzheim)  328* 
Birkenfeld-Neubriicke 

160. 
Birkenkopf,  the  337. 
Birkweiler  'Z15. 
Birresbom  192. 
Birten  48. 
Bischheim  276. 
Bischmlsheim  270. 
Bischofsheim  (Alsace) 

301. 

—  (Hessen)  222.  230. 
Bischofstein  180. 
Bischweiler  268. 
Bitburg  198. 
Bitsch  288. 
Bit^chweiler  320. 
Black  Forest,  the  352. 
Blankenberg  55. 
Blankenheim  190. 
Blasiwald  376. 
Blauen,  the  379. 
Bleckhausen  196. 
Bleidenberg,  the  180. 
Bleidenstadt  136. 
Blens  14. 
Bleybach  370. 
Bleyberg  1.  3. 
Blickweiler  270. 
Biles,  the  289. 
Bliesbriicken  270.  289. 
Bliesdahlheim  270. 
Blieskastel  270. 
Blochereck.  the  369. 
Bloss,  the  d06. 
Blucherthal,  the  115. 
Blumenthal  190. 
Blumslay,  the  179. 
Bobenheim  256. 
Bocholt  18. 
Bochum  18. 
Bockelheim,  ruins  168. 
Bockenheim  (Alsace)  291. 

-  (Frankfort)  224.  57. 
W  223. 

—  (Palatinate)  262. 
Bockfelsen  260. 
Bodendorf  85. 
Bodenheim  255. 
BSdingen,  monast.  56. 
Boes  171. 

Bghl  264. 
Bohrerbach  360. 
Bollendorf  175. 
Bollenthal,  the  381. 
BoUweiler  297. 
Bonames  57.  222. 
Bondorf  72. 
Bonhomme,  Le  314. 
— ,  Col  du  314. 
Bonn  74.  70. 


INDEX. 


391 


Bonndorf  376. 
Boosenburg,  the  122. 
Boppard  lOO.  130. 
Borcette  11. 
Bom  176. 

Bornhofen  107.  132. 
Borrstadt  262.  261. 
Bos,  the  125.  123. 
Botzberg,  the  375. 
Bourg-Bruche  302. 
Boiis  162.  168. 
Boxtel  18. 
Boyneburg  167. 
Bramont,  Col  de  318. 
Brand  12. 
Brandau  238. 
Brandenberger  Thai,  the 

376.  381. 
Brandenburg,  ruin  175. 
Branbach  104.  132.  203. 
Braunberg,  the  360. 
Braunchesberg,  the  136. 
Brauneberg,  the  188. 
Braunfels  207. 
Braunsburg,  the  66. 
Brauweiler  15. 
Brege,  the  368.  369. 
Breiberg,  the  84. 
Breisgau,  the  346. 
Breitenau  372. 
Breitenbach  308.  318. 
Breitenstein,  ruin  269. 
Breitfart  270. 
Bremm  183. 
Brend,  the  369. 
Brenden  376. 
Brennende  Berg,  the  161.' 
Brennet  386. 
Brensbach  240. 
Bresse.  La  318. 
Bressoir,  the  310. 
Bretzenheim  153. 
Breuberg,  rain  241. 
Breusch,  the  300. 
Brey  104. 
Briedel  186. 
Briedern  183. 
Brigach,  the  367.  368. 
Brigittenschloss,  the  342. 
Brodenbach  107.  180. 
Broel,  the  55. 
Brohl  (Rhine)  64.  68. 91. 
—  (Moaelle)  181. 
Brohlbach,  the  91. 
Brohlthal,  the  91. 
Bromberg,  the  349. 
Bromserburg,  the  122. 
Broque,  La  301. 
Brothers,  the  107. 
Brotzingen  323. 
Bruchhof  60. 
Bnichmiilbach  270. 
Bruchsal  322.  258. 


Bruchweiler  278. 
Briick  89. 
Bruckhaus  387. 
Briicklerain,  the  369. 
Brudeldreis,  the  192. 
Briiderhalde,  the  374. 
Brudermattfelsen  378. 
Brudersmatt  313. 
Bruhl  70. 
Bramath  289. 
Brunadern  385. 
Brunhildenbett,  the  228. 
Brunnenburg  205. 
Briiuchbtickel  310. 
Brussels  1. 
Bruttig  182. 
Bruville  166. 
Bubenhauser  Hohe,  the 

123.  126.  133. 
Bubenheun  189. 
Buchenbach  372. 
Biichenbeuren  159. 
Bnchenbriicken  67. 
Buchenloch  191. 
Buchholz  (Boppard)  107, 

—  (Elzthal)  m. 
'  (Manderscheid)  197. 
Buchsweiler  290. 
Budenheim  126.  131. 
Biiderlch,  island  18.  48. 
Biidesheim  192.  260. 
Bnggingen  361. 
Biihl  (near  Baden)  341. 

—  (near  Gebwciler)  319. 
Buhlbach  357. 
Buhlerthal,  the  341. 
•Buir  14. 
Bulach  331. 
Bullay  183. 
Bunte  Kuh,  the  87. 
Barbach  (near.Betzdorf) 

56. 

—  (near  Saarbriicken) 
168. 

— ,  waterfall  364. 
Burbach-Thal  107. 
Burg  (Black  Forest)  372. 

—  (Moselle)  184.  186, 
Burgberg  14. 
Burgbrohl  92: 
Burgeln  378. 
Burgen  180. 
Burnhaupt  322. 
Biirresheim  91. 
Burscheid  177.  176. 
Biirscheid  184. 
Biirstadt  222.  236. 
Burstenstein  359. 
Burtscheid  11. 
Bussang  322. 
— ,  the  Col  d6  321. 
Bust  290. 
Biitgenbach  12. 


ButtensieinFa]Is,the  360. 
Butzbach  56. 


Gsecilienberg,  the  338. 
Calcar  49. 
Calcum  18. 
Call  190. 
Calmbach  323. 
Calmond,  the  183. 
Calvarienberg  87. 
Camberg  229. 
Camillenberg.  the  67. 
Camp  107.  106.  132. 
Camphausen  161. 
Capellen  102.  98.  14.  130. 

51. 
Carden  181. 
Carlsberg,  castle  270. 
Carlsburg,  ch&teau  115. 
Carlsdorf  323. 
Carlshalle  155. 
Carlshohe  12. 
Carlsruhe  324. 
Casel  189. 

Casselburg,  the  191. 
Castel    (near  Hayence) 

143.  223. 
Gastell  (Saarburg)  169. 
Cat,  the,  ruin  110. 
Caub  113.  132. 
Cernay  320. 
Champ  du  Feu  308. 
Ch&tel  166. 
Chatenois  308. 
Chatte  Pendue,  the  300. 
Chaudfontaine  3. 
Chau88eehaus(nearWies- 

baden)  141.  134. 
Change  3. 
Christophsthal  356. 
Clarenthal  141.  134. 
Clausen  177.  188. 
Clef,  the  169. 
Clemenscapelle,  the  117. 
Clerf  or 
Clervaux  177. 
Cleve  49. 
Climont,  the  299. 
Clotten  181. 
Cliisserath  189. 
Cobern  179. 
Coblenz  93. 
Coblenzer   Forsthaus 

203. 
Cochem  181. 
Cochemer  Berg,  the  181. 
Collet,  the  317. 
Colin  167. 
Colmar  294. 
Colmar-Berg  177. 
Colmar-Le  Bonhomme 

314. 


392 


INDEX. 


Cologne  24. 
AlteninftTkt-FouiiUiii 

89. 
Apostles'  Church  48. 
Appellhofgebaude  37. 
Aqaarium  46. 
Archiepisc.  Museum 

34. 

—  Palace  45. 
Arresthaus  46. 
Arsenal  37. 

Art  Exhibitions  26. 

Baths  25. 

Bayenthurm  45. 

Casino  42. 

Cathedral  28. 

Cemetery  46. 

Commandant's    Honse 
43. 

Concerts  25. 

Eau  de  Cologne  26. 

Eigelstein-Thor  46. 

Flora  Garden  46.  25. 

Fortifications  27. 

Freihafen  46. 

Gates  42.  43.  46. 

Gewerbe-Schule  43. 

Governm.    Buildings 
37. 

Gross  St.  Martin  39. 

Guardhouse  37. 

Giirzenich,  the  39. 

Gymnasium  42.  43. 

Hahnen-Thor  43. 

Harbour  46. 

Heumarkt  40. 

Hochstrasse  38. 

Hospital  42. 

Iron  Bridge  34. 

Jabach's  House  42. 

Jesuits'  Church  45. 

Kdnigin- Augusta-Pas- 
sage 38. 

Library,  Civic  39. 

Marienburg  25. 

Marien-Hospital  45. 

Mariensaule  45. 

Mauritius  Church  43. 

Minorites,    Church    of 
the  37. 

Museum  34. 

Neumarkt  42. 

PfaflTenthor  41. 

Bailway  Stations  24. 

Bathhaus  38. 

Ringstrasse  27. 

Bomerthnrm  37.  43. 

Rubens's  House  42. 

St.  Andreas  45. 

—  CsBcilia  42. 

—  Cunibert  45. 

—  George  41. 

—  Gereon  44. 


Cologne : 
St.  Maria  im  Capitol  40. 

—  Martin  39. 

—  Pantaleon  43. 

—  Peter  42. 

—  Severin  42. 

—  Ursula  46. 
Stadtischer  Garten  25. 
Stotne  of  Fred.  Will. 

in.  40. 

Fred.  WUl.  IV. 

34. 

MoUkc  39. 

William  I.  34. 

Bismarck  42. 

Job.  V.  Werth 

39. 

Severin's  Thor  42. 

Steamboats  26. 

Synagogue  38. 

Templars'  Lodge  41. 

Theatres  38.  25. 

Tramways  26. 

Trinity  Church  41. 

Tumhalle  43. 

Unter  -  Sachsenhausen- 
Str.  45. 

Waterworks  46. 

Wolkenburg,  the  42. 

Zoolog.  Garden  46.  25, 
Colombey  166.  167. 
Concordia  (foundry)  67. 
Cond  182. 

Conderthal,  the  179. 
Constance  388. 
Conz  169. 
Conzen  12. 
Cordel  193. 
Comelymiinster  12. 
Corneshiitte  189. 
Corny  167. 
Corray  186: 
Corsika  239. 
Cottenheim  91. 
Courcelles-sur-Nied  162. 
Cramberg  Tunnel  205. 
Cranenburg  49. 
Oraufthal  290. 
Crefeld  47.  51. 
Creuzthal  54. 
Croff  187. 
Cronberg  226. 
Croneburgl57. 
Cronthal  227. 
Cuchenheim  190. 
Cues  188.  184. 
Ctirrenberg  91. 
Curve  224. 


Daaren-See,  the  315. 
Dachsenhausen  105. 
Dachskopf,  the  106. 


Dagsburg,  the  (near 

Zabem)  283. 
— ,  —  the  (near  Egis- 

heim)  296. 
Dahn  278. 
Dambach  303. 
Dambachthal,  the  140. 
Damianskopf  121. 
Dammerkirch  298. 
Dannemarie  298. 
Dannenfels  261. 
Danube,  the  368. 
Darmstadt  230. 
Darstein  276. 
Dattenberg  62.  63. 
Dauchstein,  ruin  251. 
Daun  196.  191. 
Dauner  Leyen,  the  196. 
—  Maare,  the  196. 
Dausenau  206. 
Dechenhohle,  the  54. 
Deidesheim  264. 
D^lemont  298. 
Delsberg  298. 
Densborn  192. 
Denzlingen  844.  371. 
Derkum  189. 
Dernan  88. 
Dettweilcr  289. 
Detzem  189. 
Denrenburg,  ruin  108. 
Deutsch-Avricourt  291. 
Deutsch-Bumbach  309. 
Deutz  26.  46.  52. 
Devant-les-Ponts  168. 
Devil's  Ladder  (Lorch) 

116. 

(Palatin.)  269. 

Dhaun  159. 
Dhiin,  the  23. 
Dieblich  179. 
Diedenbergen  223. 
Diedenhofen  168. 
Diedesfeld  265. 
Diedesheim  251. 
Diedolshausen  314. 
Diekirch  175.  177. 
Dielkirchen  157. 
Diemerstein  269. 
Dierdorf  73. 
Dietenmiihle,  the  140. 
Dietkirchen  207. 
Dietz  205. 
Dieulouard  167. 
Dill,  the  56.  207. 
Dillenburg  56. 
Dillingen  168. 
Dilsberg,  castle  250. 
Dinglingen  342. 
Dinkholder    Brunnen 

105. 
Dinslaken  18. 
Disibodenberg  158. 


INDBSX. 


393 


DiBtelbach  116. 
Distelberger  Hof,  the  179. 
Dobel,  356.  324. 
Dockweiler  191.  196. 
Dogern  386. 
Dolhain  3. 
DoUendorf  71.  84. 
DoUerthal,  the  322. 
Dombruch,  the  82. 
Dommeldange  177. 
Donatusberg  62. 
Donaueschingen  367. 
Donneraberg,  the  261. 
Donon,  the  901. 
Dorlisheim  303. 
Donuagen  47. 
Dornach  297.  304. 
Dornbach,  the  116. 
Dornberg  222.  230. 
Dornburg,  Mt.  206. 
Dornheim  222. 
Dornigheim  240. 
Dortelweil  57. 
Dortmund  18. 
Dossenheim  290. 
Dottelbach  362. 
Dottendorfer  Hdhe,the78. 
Drachenburg,  chateau  81. 
Drachenfels,  castle  82. 
—  (Palatinate)  278. 
Drachenstein,  the  269. 
Draischberg  69. 
Drei  Aehren  316. 
Dreien-Egisheim  296. 
Dreien-Ezen,  the  296. 
Drei-Fiirstenstein  367. 
Dreihof  275. 
Dreimiihlen  191. 
Dreifl  193. 

Dreisam,  the  344. 345. 371. 
Dreisam  Canal  360. 
Dreisen  261. 
Dreiser  Weiher,  the  191 
Dreistein,  ruin  307. 
Driebergen  16. 
Driesch  65. 
Dromersheim  260. 
Dromm,  the  239. 
Druidenfelsen  301. 
Drusenheim  276. 
Drusweiler  266. 
Dudeldorf  193. 
Dudweiler  161. 
Duisburg  18. 
Duisdorf  190. 
Diimpelfeld  89. 
Durchbruch,  the  88. 
Durbach  343. 
Diiren  14. 
Durkheim  282. 
Durlach  323. 
Diirre  Maar,  the  197. 
Diirscheven  189. 


Dusemond  188. 
Dusenbachthal,  the  312. 
Diisselbach,  the  19. 
Diisseldorf  18. 
Diigselthal  23. 
Dutenhofen  66. 
Dyck,  Schloss  50. 

Bberbach  (Alsace)  267. 

—  (Rheingau)  126.  123. 
(on  the  Neckar)  250. 

Eberfingen  387. 
Eberhards-Clausen  185. 
Ebemach  182. 
Ebemburg  156.  157. 
— ,  the  156. 
Ebersheim  294. 
Eberstadt  234. 
Eberstein,  castle  365. 
Ebersteinburg  339. 
Ebertsheim  262. 
Ebnet  372. 
Echternach  175. 
Eckardsberg,  the  361. 
Eckirch  309. 
Eckfeld  197. 
Eckle,  the  367. 
Edelfrauengrab,  the  369. 
Edenkoben  266. 
Edesheim  266. 
Ediger  183. 
Efringen  352. 
Eggenstein  256. 
Egisheim  296. 
Ehlenbogenthal,  the  364. 
Ehrang  186.  189.  193. 
Ehrenbreitstein  100. 
Ebrenburg  (Hoselle)  107. 

180. 
Ehrenfeld  15. 
Ehrenfels  118.  132. 
Ehrenthal  (Rhine)  106. 

—  (Saarbrucken)  162. 
Ehreshoven  56. 
Ehringshausen  56. 
Eibingen  123. 
Eichberg  123.  126. 
Eichelhiitte  199. 
Elchemer  See,  the  382. 
Eichhofen  903. 

Eifel,  the  198. 
Eimeldingen  352. 
Eineburg,  the  4. 
Einod  270. 
Einsiedel  234. 
Eisbach.  the  262. 
Eisch,  the  177. 
Eisenbach  270. 
Eisenberg  262. 
Eisenschmitt  199. 
Eitelsbach  189. 
Eitorf  56. 


Blberfeld  62. 
Elfenmiible  194. 
Elisabethenhohe  127. 
Elisenhohe,  the  121. 
Ellenz  182. 
EUer  183. 
— ,  Schloss  23. 
-,  the  183. 
EUerer  Berg,  the  182. 
Elmstein  269. 
Elmsteiner-Thal  268.   ' 
Elsasshausen  267. 
Elsdorf  14. 
Elsenz,  the  250. 
Elten  17.  49. 
Eltville  125.  133. 
Eltviller  Au,  the  126. 
Eltz,  Schloss  181. 
Elz,  the  180.  251.  3U. 
Elzach  370. 
Elzberg,  the  306. 
Elzhof  366. 
Elzthal,  the  370. 
Emberm^nil  291. 
Emmaburg,  the  4.  12. 
Emmendingen  344. 
Emmerich  17. 
Empel  17. 
Ems  200., 
Enchenberg  288. 
Endenich  78. 
Endertsbach,  the  182. 
Endingen  344. 
EngehoU,  the  113. 
Engelburg,  the  320. 
Engeln  92. 

Engelport,  monast.  181. 
Engelsberg  241. 
Engelskanzel,  the  339. 
Engelskirchen  56. 
Engen  368. 
Engenthal  293. 
Engers  67.  73. 
Enkenbach  262.  157. 
Enkirch  184.  186. 
Ennepe,  the  63. 
Ennert,  the  71. 
Ensch  189. 
Ensdorf  168. 
Ensisheim  297. 
Ensival  3. 
Ensweiler  160. 
Enz,  the  323. 
Enzklosterle  324.  356. 
Epflg  303. 
Eppelheim  251. 
Eppelsheim  262. 
Eppinghofen  62. 
Eppstein  229.  257. 
Erbach  (Rheingau)  125. 
132. 

(Odenwald)  242. 
— ,  Dorf241. 


3d4 


INIXEX. 


Erbenheim  229. 
Erden  187. 
Erdenburg,  the  S7. 
Erdmannleinhohle  383. 
Erdorf  193. 
Erensberg.  the  191. 
Erfelden  222.  234. 
Erfenstein,  ruin  209. 
Erft,  the  14.  139. 
Erfweiler  276. 
Erkelenz  00. 
Erkrath  03. 
Krlaa  240. 
Erienbsch  339.  278. 
— ,  the  270. 

Erlenbachthal,  the  876. 
Erienbad  342. 
Erlenbruck  355.  374. 
Ernolsheim  290. 
Ernstthal  241.  242. 
Erpel  62.  72. 
Erpeler  Lei,  the  62. 
Erpolzheim  262. 
Erschheimer  Capelle  250. 
Krschlitt  318. 
Ersingen  323. 
Erstein  294. 
Erzlngen  387. 
Enkasten,  the  300. 
Eachbach  275.  318. 
EBchborn  226. 
Eschelbronn  251. 
Eschery  309. 
Eschhofen  207. 
Kschkopf,  the  269. 
EschweileT  13. 
Kschweiler  Aue  13. 
—  Pumpe  13. 
Eselsfiirth  157.  262. 
Esemael  2. 
Essen  52. 
Essingen  195. 
Ettelbriick  ITT. 
Ettenheim  342. 
Ettersbacher  Thai  370. 
Ettliagen  331. 
Ettringer-Bellenberg  91. 
Eulbach  241. 
Eulenkopf,  the  183. 
Eulsbach  239. 
Eupen  3. 
Euren  169. 
Euskirchen  189. 
Eusserthal  275. 
Eyachmiihl  324. 

Fachingen  205. 
Fahl  375.  381. 
Fahr  65. 
Fahrnau  382. 
Falkau  375. 
Falkenberg  162. 
^alkenburg  117. 


Falkenfelicn  343. 
Falkenlei,  the  194. 
Falkenlust  70. 
Falkensteig  372. 
Falkenstein  (Alsace)  288. 

—  (near  Herrenalb)  360. 

—  (Hollenthal)  372. 

—  (TaunuB)  227. 

—  (nearWinnweiler)167. 
Falkenstelnerbach  2SA. 
Falkensteiner  Thai  157. 
FjUkensteinlelsen  306. 
FaUbach,  the  306. 
Fankel  182. 
Farschweiler  289. 
Faulenflrst,  the  376. 
Favorite,  the  304. 
Fecht,  the  312.  315. 
Fegersheim  294. 
Feldberg  (Black  Forest) 

374. 

—  (Taunus),  the  Great 

—  (Taunus) ,    the  Little 
228. 

Feldkirche,  the  65. 
Feldsee,  the  374. 
Felleringen  321. 
Felsberg,  the  (Eifel)  196 

—  (Odenwald)  237. 
Felsen  (Baden),  the  339 
Felsengruppe  141. 
Felsenmeer,  the  238. 
Ferres  188. 
Fetzberg,  ruin  56. 
Filzen  (Moselle)  188. 

—  (on  the  Rhine)  105. 132 
Finnentrop  51. 
Finsterthal  260. 
Finstingen  291. 
Finthen  153. 
Flschbach  (Nahe)  160. 

—  (Nassau)  229. 
Fischbachthal  229.  240. 

116. 
Fischbodle,  lake  317. 
Fischetz,  the  387. 
Flacht  206. 

Flaumbachthal,  the  181. 
Fleckertshohe.  the  107. 
Fleckenstein  279. 
Fliessem  193. 
Flomersheim  257. 
Flonheim  260.  157. 
Florsheim  223. 
Fluorn  364. 
Flushing  61. 
Folpersweiler  270. 
Forbach  (Baden)  305. 

—  (Lorraine)  162. 
Formerich,  the  196. 
Fomich  64. 

Forst  181.  264. 


Forsthaus  222. 
Fouday  301. 
Foveaux-Hauschen  71. 
Fraipont,  castle  3. 
Frankenberg,  the  12. 
Frankenburg  304.  309. 
Frankeneck  268. 
Frankenstein  (Odenwald) 

234. 
—  (Palatinate)  269. 
Frankensteiner  Thai  268. 
Frankenthal  256. 
Frankfort  208. 

Archives  215. 

Ariadneum  217. 

Art  Union  211. 

Borse  211. 

Bridges  213.  210. 

Biirgerverein  216. 

Cathedral  214. 

Cemeteries  216.  217. 

Charlemagne''s    Statue 
210. 

Conservatorium  213. 

Deaconesses ,  Instit.  of 
217. 

Deutsch-Ordenshaus 
215. 

Elisabethenschule  211. 

Eschenheimer   Thnrm 
216. 

Exchange  211. 

Exhibition  of  Art  211. 

Fahrthor  218. 

Gewerbekasse  211. 

Goethe's  House  211. 

—  Monument  211. 
Goldene  Waage  214. 
Gutenberg's     Monu- 
ment 211. 

Hauptwache  212. 
Haus  Fiirsteneck  215. 

—  Limpurg  213. 

—  Znm  Kaiser  Earl 
212. 

—  turn  Eleinen  Engel 
214. 

Hessian  Monument  217. 
Hochstift  211. 
Hospitals  216. 
Judengasse  216. 
Justitia  Fountain  213. 
Kaiser-Strasse  211. 
Katharinenklrche  212. 
Eunstgewerbe-  Verein 

211. 
Kunstverein  211. 
Lein  wand  haus  215. 
Library  216. 
Liebfrauenkirche  212. 
Lunatic  Asylum  217. 
Luther's  Statue  214. 
Magi,Churchofthe216. 


INDEX. 


395 


Frankfort : 

Market  214. 

Market  Hall  216. 

Mofleam,  Histor.  216. 

Nicolaikirche  213. 

Opera  House  217. 

Palm  Garden  218. 

Panorama  218. 

Picture  Gallery,  Muni- 
cipal 216. 

Promenades  217. 

Rechnei-Graben  216. 

Rententburm  213. 

Romer  212. 

Bomerberg  213. 

Rossmarkt  211. 

Saalbau  211. 

Saalbof  213. 

St.  Leonhard's  ch.  213. 

St.  Paul's  church  212. 

Salzhaus  213. 

Schiller's      Monument 
212. 

Schone  Aussieht  216. 

Senckenberg  Institu- 
tion 216. 

Stadel  Art  Institute218. 

Steineme  Haus  2i4. 

Synagogue  216. 

Theatre  211. 

Thurn  und  Taxis,  Pal. 
of  the  Prince  of  217, 

Vanni's  Exhlb.  of  Casts 
217. 

War  Monument  216. 

Zeil  212. 

Zoolog.  Garden  218. 
Frankfurter  Forsthans 

228. 
Frankisch  -  Crumbach 

240. 
Franzoseakopf ,  the  121. 
Fraubachthal  107. 
Frauenalb  356. 
Frauenkirche  90. 
Frauenstein  126. 
Fraulautern  168. 
Freiburg  844. 
Freiersbach  361. 
Freiersthal,  the  362. 
Freifaeit,  the  240. 
Freinsheim  262. 
Freiolsheim  381. 
Fr^land  313. 
Fremersberg,  the  341. 
Fremmersdorf  168. 
Frena  14. 
Fresoati  167. 
Freudenburg,  castle  169. 
Freudenstadt  366. 
Friedberg  67. 
Friedensweiler  373. 
Friedrichsfeld  237. 


Friedrichssegen  200. 
Friedrichsthal    (Black 
Forest)  366. 

—  (Nahe)  161. 
Friedrich-Wilhelms- 

Hutte  71. 
Friesenheim  342. 
Frohnschwand  386. 
Froschweiler  267. 
Frouard  167. 
Friicht  106.  208. 
Fruchtspeicher,  ruin  323. 
Fuchshofen  89. 
Fuchstanz  228. 
Fiirfeld  157. 

Fttrstenau,  Schloss  241. 
Fiirstenberg,  ruin  115. 
Fiirsteneck  360. 
Fiirstenlager,  the  236. 

238. 
Fiirth  239. 
Furtwangen  369. 
Fustenburg,  ruin  116. 

Oadem  239. 
Gademheim  238. 
Gaggenau  364. 
Gaimiihle  242. 
Gaisbach  333.  356.  360. 
Gaishohle  342. 
Gallenwarte,  the  223. 
Galz,  the  316. 
Gambsheim  275. 
GammelsbacherThal  242. 
Gans,  the  166. 
Gansehals,  the  93. 
Garbenheim  208. 
Gartenfeld  260. 
Gaschpels  Hof  374. 
Gau-Algesheim  ISO. 
Gaubickelheim  260. 
Gaugrehweiler  167. 
Gaulsheim  123.  130. 
Gauodemheim  261. 
Gausbach  356. 
Gebiick,  the  122. 
Gebweiler  319. 
Gebweiler  Belchen  321. 
Gees  191. 

Geiersburg,  the  264. 
Geilenkirchen  60. 
Geilnau  205. 
Geisberg,  the  83.  84. 

—  (Alsace)  267. 

—  (near  Heidelberg)  249 
Geisenheim  123.  132. 
Geisingen  368. 
Geispolsheim  294. 
Geisweid  64. 
Geldem  48.  18. 
Gelsdorf  190. 
Gemund  190. 
Gemunden  159. 196.  198. 


Gemiinder  Maar  196. 
Gengenbach  363. 
Gensingen  260. 
Georgenbom  134. 
G^rardmer  318. 
Germania  Foundry  66. 
Germersheim  274.  323. 
Gemsbach  354.   340. 
Gemsheim  222.  270. 
Geroldseck  292. 
Gerolsau  388. 
Gerolstein  116.  135. 
— ,  (Kyllthal)  191. 
Gerresheim  53. 
Gersbach  366. 
Gersheim-Walsheim  270. 
Gersprenz  240. 
— ,  the  240. 
Gertweiler  308. 
Geschwend  381.  383. 
Gevelsberg  53. 
Gewenheim  322. 
Gierscheidsquelle  84. 
Giessen  66. 
Gillenfeld  197.  196. 
Gimmeldingen  264. 
Girbaden  304. 

,  Schloss  305. 
Girsberg  312. 
Gladbach,  Bergisch-  23. 
Gladbacb,  Mtinchen-  50. 
Glan  270. 
-,  the  158.  269. 
Glashiitte  342. 
Glaswaldsee,  the  364. 
Gleiberg,  ruin  56. 
Gleisweiler  266. 
Goch  48. 

Goddelau  222.  234. 
Godenhaus  63. 
Godesberg  69. 
— ,  castle  69.  68. 
Godramstein  276. 
Goebelsmiihle  178. 
Goersdorf  267. 
Gohl,  the  4. 
Gohl-Viaduct  12. 
Goldene  Meil,  the  69.  86. 
Goldenfels,  castle  116. 
Goldha\isen  206. 
Goldstein  222. 
Gollheim  261. 
Gondelsheim  192. 
Gondorf  179. 
Gonsenheim  260. 
Gorxheim  236. 
Gorze  166. 
Gossersweiler  277. 
Gottenheim  350. 
Gottesaue  330. 
Gottmadingen  388. 
Gottschlagtbal,  the  359- 
Gouda  16. 


INDEX. 


GoxweUer  308. 
Qraach  187. 
Graben-Keudorf  256.332. 
Qrafenberg,  the  12t>. 
Orafenhaiueii  387. 
OrafenBtaden  294. 
Orafenwerth,  isl.  58.  72. 
Qrafinbarg,  the  187. 
Grande  Cdte,  the  300. 
Grandfontaine  301. 
Granges,  Valine  de  318, 
Graaellenbach  239. 
Graupenwerth,  isl.  57. 
Grau-Rheindorf  58. 
Gravelotte  165. 
Greiffenfltein  291.  289. 
Grendelbruch  305. 
Grenzach  385. 
Grenzau  73. 
Grenxhansen  73. 
Gressenich  13. 
GressweUer  300. 
Greulingsmuhle  116. 
Grevenberg  13. 
Grevenbroich  14. 
Grevenbriick  54. 
Grevenhausen  268. 
Griesbach  362. 
Griesheim  228.  234. 
Griessen  387. 
Grisbachthal,  the  369. 
Grobbach,  the  33S. 
Groesbeck,  49. 
Gross-Bieberau  238.240. 
GroBsenbaum  18. 
Grossgeraa  222.  230. 
Gross-Geroldseck  292. 
Gross-Hettingen  168. 
Gross-Karben  57. 
Gross-Litgen  199. 
Gross-Sachsen  236. 
Grossthal,  the  316. 
Gross-Umstadt  240. 
Grotzingen  323. 
Grumbach  241. 
Griindenbach,  the  359, 
Griine,  the  54. 
GninhauB  189. 
Grunhiitte  298. 
Griiningen  367. 
Griinstadt  262. 
Griirmannshohle,  the  54. 
Guckley  88. 
Gudenaaer  Thai,  the 
Giildenbach,  the  115. 
Gulfl  179. 

Gumpelscheuer  324. 
Gandersheim  262. 
Gundershofen  288. 
Gundbach  316. 
Gunstett  267. 
Guntersblum  256. 
Giiathersthal  349. 


Gttnienthalf  the  3M. 
Gunsenbachthal,  the  337, 
Gutach  366.  370. 
— ,  river  366.  373.  876. 
Giitenbach  370. 
Gntmadingen  868. 
Gutenfels,  castle  113. 
Gutlenthof  267. 
Gnttenburg  387. 

Haagen  382. 
Haager  Hutte  321. 
Haan  62.  53. 
Haanenburg,  the  72. 
Haardt  64. 

Haardt  (Palatinate)  266. 
Haardter  Hofe ,  the  184. 
Haardt  Mts.,  the  268. 265 
Haberaoker  292. 
Habonville  166. 
Habsheim  299. 
Hachenburg  74. 
Hachimette  313. 
Hadamar  206. 
Hagelschloss  807. 
Hagen  64. 
Hagenau  268. 
Hagenbach  275. 
Hagenbrucke  368.  369. 
Hagendingen  168. 
Hager  Hof,  the  72. 
Hager  Koppelchen  72. 
Hahn  136. 

Hahnenbach,  the  159. 
Hahnenberg,  the  308. 
Hahnhof,  the  66. 
Hahnkopf,  the  204. 
Hahnstatten  206. 
Haiger  66. 
Hain  92. 
Hainstadt  240. 
Halbmeil  364. 
Halde,  the  363. 
Haldem  17. 
Hallberg,  the  162. 
Hallgarten  124.  123. 
Hallgarter  Zange  124. 
Haltingen  362. 
Hambach  291.  161. 
Hambacher  Schloss  266 
Hammerstein  64.  73. 
Hanau  240. 

Handschuchsheim  249. 
Hanselberg,  the  123. 
Hanweiler  289. 
Hardt,  An  der  293. 
Harff  14. 

Harmersbach,  the  363. 
Harpolinger    Schloas 

Hartenburg  263. 
Hartwald ,   the  298. 
Uarxheim  262. 


Hasel  388. 
Haselbach  Valley  110. 

—  Waterfall  887. 
Hanenbiihl,  the  261. 
Haslach  368. 
Haslachthal,  the  302. 
Haspe  64. 

Hassel  270. 
Hassloch  264. 
Hattenheim  124.  132. 
Hattersheim  223. 
Hattert  74. 
Hattmatt  290. 
Hatzenport  180. 
Hanenstein  (Baden)  386. 

—  (Palatinate)  276. 
Hauptstuhl  270. 
Hansbaden  378. 
Hausach  368. 
Hansen  (Baden)  382. 

—  (Palatinate)  262. 

—  (Boer  VaUey)  14. 
Haiisem  (Black  Forest) 

376.384. 

—  (near  Egisheim)  296. 
Hautes  Chanmes  314. 
Hantes  Huttes  314. 
Hecklingen  344. 
Heddesbach  239. 
Heddesdorf  66. 
Heerdt  47. 
Heidburg,  the  363. 
Heidelberg  242. 
Heidenberg,  the  137. 
Heidenkamm  72. 
Heidenmauer,  the  (Diirk- 

heim)  263. 
— ,  —  (Kreuznach)  164. 
— ,  —  (Odilienberg)  306. 
— ,  —  (Wiesbaden)  137. 
Heidenoord  17. 
Heidenstadt  290. 
Heidesheim  181. 
Heilbrunnen,  the  91. 
Heilig,  the  60. 
Heiligenberg,  chat.  237. 
— ,  hill  249. 
— ,  (Vosges)  300. 
Heiligenstein  (Vosges) 

306. 

—  (near  Speyer)  274. 
HeiUg-Kreuz  121. 

—  (chapel)  316. 
Heiligkreuzsteinach  239. 
Heimbach  (Engers)  73. 

—  (Nahe)  160. 

—  (Boer  Valley)  14. 
Heimburg,  ruin  117. 
Heimersheim  86. 
Heissenstein  319. 
Heisterbach  83.  71. 
Heitersheim  351. 
Heldenstein  265. 


INDEX. 


397 


Helenabrunn  51. 
Helenenberg,  the  69. 
Helfenstein  100. 
HeUenthal  185.  190. 
Heller,  the  56. 
Helmstadt  251. 
Hemingen  291. 
Hemmerich,  the  80. 
Hemmersbach  14. 
Hemmessem  87. 
Hemsbach  286. 
Hengebach  14. 
Hennef  55. 
Heppenheim  236. 
Heppingen  85. 
Herbesthal  3. 
Herbitzheim  270. 
Herblingen  388. 
Herbolzheim  344. 
Herboni  56. 
Herchen  55. 
Herchenberg  92. 
Herdem  849. 
Herdorf  56. 
Hergenrath  4. 
Bering  240. 
Herlisheim  275.  296. 
Hermannshiitte  66. 
Herxnersberg.  the  361. 
Hermeskeil  161. 
Hernsheixn  260. 
Herny  162. 
Herrenalb  355. 
Herrenberg  318. 
— ,  the  177. 
Herrenschwand  383. 
Herrenwiea  342. 
Herriachried  386. 
Hersbach  300. 
Herschwiesen  107. 
Herthen  385. 
Herzogenrath  60. 
HerzogBhorn,  the  353. 
Hesbaye,  the  2. 
Hettenheim  262. 
Hetzbach  242. 
Hetzerath  185. 
Heubach  240.  241. 
Heukopf  354. 
Heanen-Saulen,  the  242. 
Heycot  310. 
Heywang  306. 
Hickengrand,  the  56. 
Hillesheim  191. 
Hillinstein  100. 
Hllpertoau  355. 
Himbachel  Viadact  242. 
Himmelreich,  the  (Black 

Forest)  872. 
— ,  —  (Moselle)  187. 
Himmerod  199. 
Hlnterburg  260. 
Hinterhaus  122. 


Hinter-Langenbach  357. 
Hinter-Seebach  358. 
Hlnterweidenthal  276. 
Hinter-Zarten  373. 
Hintachingen  368. 
Hirschberg,  the  81.  85. 
Hirschhom  250.  239. 
Hirschsprung,  the  372. 
Hirsingen  296. 
Hirzenach  106. 
Hochburg,  ruin  344. 
Hochdahl  53. 
Hdchenschwand  385. 
Hochfeld  47.  51. 
— ,  the  308. 
Hochfelden  289. 
Hochfirst,  the  373. 
Hochheim  223. 
Hochkopf,  the  383. 
Hochkreuz,  the  70. 
Hoch-Neukirch  13. 
Hochsimmer,  the  91. 
Hochspeyer  157.  269. 
Hochspeyerbach,  the  268. 
Hochst  (Odenwald)  241. 

—  (Taunus)    223.    226. 
228. 

Hochstadt  (Odenwald) 
240. 

—  (Ehen.  Palat.)  275. 
Hochstatten  157.  238. 
Hochstatter  Thai  235. 
Hochwald,  the  14. 
Hockenheim  255. 
Hofen  267. 

Hofen  323. 

Hofheim  228.  234.  236. 

Hofheimer  Gapelle,  the 

228. 
Hofstetten  363.  370. 
Hoh-Barr  293.  289. 
Hohe  Acht,  the  89. 
Hohe  Eandel,   the  370. 
Hohe  Lei,  the  204. 
Hohe  Mark,  the  228. 
Hohenbaden,  castle  33' 
Hohenbnrg,  the  278. 
Hoheneck,  the  317. 
— ,  ruin  117. 
Hohen-Egisheim  296. 
Hohenfels  195. 
Hohengeroldseck  363. 
Hohen-Eonigsburg  310. 
Hohenlandsberg  316. 
Hohenlimburg  54. 
Hohen-Rappoltstein  312. 
Hohenroder  Schloss  342. 
Hohenstein,  the  238. 

,  ruin  135. 
Hohensiilzen  262. 
Hohen-Syburg  54. 
Hohentwiel,  the  388. 
Hohe  Schwerz  818. 


Hohe  Venn,  the  12. 
Hohe  Wurzel,   the  141. 
Hohlenfels  206. 
Hohloh,  the  323.  355. 
Hohnack,  Grosser  316. 
— ,  Kleiner  316. 
Hohr  78. 
Hohwald  307. 
HoUenfels  177. 
Hollenhaken,  the  385. 
Hollenpass,  the  372. 
Hollensteig,  the  372. 
Hollenthal,  the  371.  372. 
Hollhof  360. 
HoUrich  204. 
Holzbach  73. 
Holzmaar,  the  197. 
Holzstoss,  the  66. 
Holzwald  365. 
Holzwalder  Hohe,the362. 
Homberg  51. 
Homburg,  Baths  224. 
—  (Palatinate)  270. 
Hongen  14. 
Honingen  262. 
Honnef  72. 
Honnerath  191. 
Honningen  63.  62.  89. 
Hontheim  195. 
Hoppstadten  160. 
Horburg  296. 
Horchheim   101.  98.  131. 
Hordt  268. 
Hordten  354. 
Horheim  387. 
Horn,  the  (AhrValley)  89. 
Homberg  365. 
Homgraben,  the  189. 
Homisgrinde.  the  358. 
Homle,  the  850. 
Hornleberg  370. 
Horrem  14. 
Horremer  Burg,  14. 
Horrweiler  260. 
Hottingen  886. 
Hub,  the  342. 
Hnbacker  361. 
Hueb,  Auf  der  293. 
Hiiflngen  373. 
Hugstein  319. 
Hugstetten  350. 
Hiihnerberg,  the  110. 
HtLls  51. 
Hummerich,  the  Plaidter 

65. 
Hunaweier  312. 
Hundem-Thal  54. 
Hundlingen«!2B9. 
Hnndseck,  the  342. 
Hungrige  Wolf,  the  115. 
Hiiningen  299. 
Hunnenring,  the  161. 
Hunspach  2o7. 


398 


IM>£X. 


Hansrtiok,  the  1A9.  Ifie. 
Hartgen  14. 
Hattenheim  323. 
lluttenthal,  the  166. 
Huttingen  198. 
IlutsenbKk  808. 

Ibach  381. 
Iben  157.  260. 
Idar  160. 

Idarbach,  the  16a 
Idstein  229. 
IfTezheim  333. 
I  gel  176. 
Iggelheim  264. 
Igney-Avricottrt  291. 
Igstadt  229. 
Ihringen  3U.  360. 
Ilbesheim  261. 
Ill,  the  280.  29B. 
Illenau  342. 
Illfnrt  298. 
lUkirch  294. 
Immendingen  368. 
Immeneich  384.  385. 
Imsweiler  167. 
Inde,  the  12. 
Ingelbaeh  74. 
Ingelheim  130. 
Ingelheimer  An  126. 
Ingersheim  312. 
Ingweiler  290. 
Insel  (Ahr  Valley)  89. 

—  (near  Miinster,  Alsace) 
317. 

iQshelm  266. 
Irlich  66. 

Isenachthal,  the  263. 
Isenburg  (Alsace)  296. 
— ,  —  (Sayn  Valley)  73 
Isenbeim,  monast.  319. 
Iserlohn  64. 
Ispringen  323. 
Issel  186.  189. 
Isteiner  Klotz,  the  361. 
Itterbach,  the  242. 

Jacobflbepger  Hof  106. 
Jacobsweiler  261. 
Jagdhaus  (n.  Baden)  341. 
Jagdschloss  (near  Ass- 

mannshausen)  129. 
Jagerhaaschen  (near 

Freiburg)  349. 
Jagerhom  122. 
Jagerthal  279. 
Jesaitenhof  58. 
Jockgrim  275. 
Johannisberg,   Dorf  124. 

123. 
— ,  Schloss  123. 

—  im  Grand  124. 

—  (Nahe  Valley)  169 


JoMphthof  187. 
JoBsa,  ruin  286. 
Jouy-aux-Ardies  167. 
Jugenheim  294.  287. 
Jiilich  or  Juliera  14. 
Jtinkerath  190. 

Kabel  64. 
Kaferthal  222. 
Kahle  Wasen,  the  818. 
Kailbaeh  242. 
Kaimt  186. 

Kaiierberg,  the  18.  62. 
Kaiserburg,  ruin  813. 
Kaiserslautem  26a  167. 
Kaiserstahl,  the  344. 
—  (near  Heidelberg)  249. 
Kaiserswerth  28. 
Kaiser  Wilhelm  Tunnel 

182. 
KalberhUtte  806. 
Kalenbomer  Hdhe  190. 
Kalk26. 
Kalkofen  205. 
Kalmit,  the  266. 
Kalscheuren  70.  189. 
Kalsmunt,  ruin  206. 
Kaltenbach  276. 
Kaltenbom  89. 
Kaltenbronn  324.  366. 
Kaltenbrunner-Thal  266. 
Kaltenengers  67. 
Kattenherberg  369. 
Kalterherberg  12. 
KammerbergerMuhlell6. 
Kammerforst  122. 
Kandel,  the  Hohe  370. 
Eander,  the  362. 
Kandern  379. 
Kanzel,  the  72. 
Kapellen  266. 
Kappele,  the  364. 
Kappeler  Thai  842.  369. 
Kappelrodeck  369. 
Kapsweyer  266. 
Karlsdorf  323. 
Karlssprung  291. 
Karmelenberg,  the  67. 
Karthaus  169.  175.  177. 
Karthause,  the  96. 
Kasacker  379. 
Kaabach  62. 
Kasbachthal  62. 
Kaskeller  (Bertrich)  194. 
KasUnienberg,  the  263. 
Kastelburg,  ruin  370. 
Kastellaun  159. 
Katenes  179. 
Katz,  the,  ruin  110. 
Katzenbach  241. 
Katzenbuckel,  the  251. 

241. 
Katzenloch,  the  160. 


Kataenatein,  the  301. 
Kautenbach  177. 
Kautenbaehthal,  the  187. 
KauMiiberg,  the  166. 
Kaysersberg  313. 
Kehl  342.  W. 
Kelberg  89. 
Kellenbaeh  169. 
Kellerskopf,  the  141. 
Kelsterbach  222. 
Kemmenau  208. 
Kemmenauer  Hohe  206. 
Kempen  48. 
Kempten  123.  260. 
Kennfus  196. 
Kenzingen  344. 
Kerpen  191. 
Kertoff  318. 
Kesselheim  67. 
Kesselinger-Thal  89. 
Kessenich  78. 
Kesten  188. 
Eestenburg  266. 
Kestenholz  306. 
Kestert  132.  106. 
Kettenheim  262. 
Kevelaer  48. 
Kiedrich  126.  123. 
Kienzheim  313. 
Kierberg  189. 
Kilpenstrasse,  the  370. 
Kindel  187. 
Kinderbeuren  .184. 
Kindsbach  269. 
Kinheim  187. 
Kinzheim  309. 
Kinzig,  the  229.  342.  347. 
Kippenheim  342. 
Kirchberg  159.  322. 
Kirchbrombaeh  241. 
Kirchheim  (Alsace)  S(B. 

—  an  der  Eck  262. 

—  (near  Heidelberg)  322. 
Kirchheimbolanden  261. 
Kirchlei  187. 
Kirchweiler  195. 
Kirchzarten  372. 
Kirmutscheid  191. 
Kim  169. 

KImach  367.  369. 
Kirnbach  363. 
Eirneck  367. 
Kimeckthal,  the  303. 
Eirrweiler  266. 
Eirsch  189. 
Eirchhausen  239. 
Eifllau  322. 
Elararuh,  the  356. 
Elause,  the  124. 
Elein-Amsberg  279. 
Elein  Auheim  240. 
Elein-Basel  362. 
Elein-Blittersdorf  289. 


INDEX. 


399 


Eleine  Kyll  198.  199. 
Kleinenbroich  51. 
Kleingerau  230. 
Klein-Oeroldseck  292. 
Elein-Heubach  242. 
Kleinkems  351. 
Klein-Laufenburg  386. 
Klein-Rederchingen  288. 
Kleinsteinbach  323. 
Kleinthal,  the  316. 
Klein-Umstadt  240. 
Klein-Winterheim  261. 
Klemmbach,  the  351. 378. 
Klengen  367. 
Klingenmiiiister  266. 
EUngenthal  305.. 
Klopp,  castle  120. 
Klosterberg  338. 
Klosterle,  the  364. 
Klosterrath  50. 
Knechtsteden,  abbey  47. 
Kniebis,  the  360. 361. 362. 
Kniebis  Baths,  the  361. 
Knielingen  331. 
Knoringen  266. 
Kochem  162. 
Kockelsberg  174. 
Kogenheim  294. 
Kohlhof,  the  249. 
Kohlscheid  50. 
KoUnau  370. 
Kolmbach  238. 
Kondelwald,  the  184. 
Kondringen  344. 
Kongernheim  261. 
Konig  241. 
Konig,  Ht.  184. 
Konigsbach  (near  Durk- 
heim)  264. 

—  (near  Durlach)  323. 
Konigsdorf  15. 
Konigsfeld  367. 
Konigshofen  (Alsace)293 

—  (Palatinate)  264. 
Konigsmachern  178. 
Konigsmiihle  (near  Xeu- 

stadt)  265. 
Konigsstuhl   (near   Hei- 
delberg) 249. 

—  (near  Alzey)  261. 

—  (near  Bhens)  104. 
Konigstein  (Taunus)  227. 
Konigswart  366. 
Konigswinter  80.  58.  71. 
Koppenstein  159. 
Korbmattfelsen  341. 
Kork  342. 

Korretsberg,  the  90. 
Korschenbroich  51. 
Kottenforst  190. 
Kovenich  186. 
Kowerich  189. 
Krahberg,  the  242. 


Krahnenberg,  the  64. 
Kranichstein  234. 
Kraas,  the  88. 
Kreuzau  14. 
Kreuzberg  (Ahr)  89. 

—  (near  Bonn)  78. 
Kreaznach  153. 
Kreuzthal  54. 
Kriftel  228. 
Krippe  63. 

Krinne,  Auf  der  380. 
Kronweiler  160. 
Kropsburg,  the  266. 
Krotzingen  351.  380. 
Kruchten  ITT. 
Kruft  90. 

Krufter  Ofen,  the  90.  92 
Kriith  321. 
Kudinghofen  71. 
Euhbach  363. 
Kiihkopf.  the  98. 
Kiihr  179. 
Eillzthal,  the  159. 
Kuppenheim  354. 
Kiippersteg  23. 
Knael  270. 
Kiissenberg  387. 
Kiitzenhausen  267. 
Kybfelsen,  the  349. 
Kyll,  the  190.  193. 
Kyllburg  192.  184. 
Kyller  Hohe,  the  191. 
Kyrburg,  ruin  159. 

Laach,  Abbey  of  93. 

—  (Ahr  Valley)  88. 
Laacherkopf,  the  92. 
Laacher  Rotheberg  92. 
Laacher  See,  the  92. 
La  Baroche  314. 

La  Bresse  318. 
Labroque  301. 
Lac  Blanc,  the  314. 

—  Noir,  the  314. 

—  Vert,  the  315. 
La  Chapelle  314. 
Ladenbnrg  237. 
Lahn,  the  56.  96.  131. 

199.  206. 
Lahneck  103. 
Lahnsteiner  Forsthaus 

203. 
Lahr  342. 
Lambrecht  268. 
Lambsheim  257. 
Lammersdorf  12. 
Lampertheim  1^. 
Lampertsmiihle  269. 
Landau  266. 
Landberg,  the  236. 
Landen  2. 

Landsberg,  ruin  157. 
Landahut  (Moselle)  187. 


Landskron  (Palatinate) 

256. 
— ,  the  (Ahr  Valley)  85. 
Landsperg,  ruin  306. 
Landstuhl  270. 
Landstuhler   Bruch  269. 
Landwasser  365. 
Langenau,  castle  204. 
Langenbach,  the  357. 
Lnngenberg  300. 
Langenbrand  355. 
Langenbriicken  322. 
Langenfeld  23. 
Langenkandel  331. 
Langenlonsheim  153. 
Langenordrach-Thal  373. 
Langen-Schwalbach  134. 
Langensulzbach  267. 
Langenthal  239. 
Langenthaler  Ereuz  290. 
Langerwehe  14. 
Langgons  56. 
Langmeil  157.  262. 
Langstadt  240. 
Langsnr  175. 
La  Poutroye  314. 
La  Rochette  3.  177. 
Lasserg  180. 
Laubbach  98. 
Laubenheim(  Vosges)305 
—  (near  Hayence)  ^. 
Lauch,  the  295.  318. 
Lauchenkopf,  the  318. 
Lauchthal,  the  319. 
Lauf  342. 

Laufen,  Schloss  387. 
Laufenbacher  Hof  89. 
Laufenburg  386. 
Laufer  Schloss  342. 
Laukenmiihle,  the  116. 
Laurenburg  205. 
Lauschhiitte  117.  121. 
Lautenbach-Zell  320. 
Lautenbach  320.  360. 
Lauter.  the  266.  269.  276. 
Lauterbach  365. 
— ,  the  238. 
Lauterecken  269.  158. 
Lauterburg  275. 
Lauterfingen  291. 
Lauterthal  278. 
Lautzkirchen  270. 
Lax,  the  239. 
Lay  179. 
Leberau  309. 
Leberthal.  the  308. 
Leeheim  222. 
Lehmen  179.  183. 
Lehngericht,  the  Vordere 

and  Hintere  364. 
Leiberg,  the  72. 
Leichlingen  52. 
Leichtweisshohle  141 « 


400 


INDEX. 


Leidelbeim  269. 
Leidert,  the  240. 
Leiningen  202. 
Leinsweiler  716. 
Leipzig  (near  Hetz)  160. 
Leiwen  189. 
Lek,  the  16. 
Lembach  267. 
Lemberg  28B. 
— ,  the  167. 
Lengfeld  240. 
Leniaberg,  the  260.  131, 
Lenne.  the  54. 
Lenzkirch  375. 
Leopolds- Canal,  the  344. 
Leopoldshafen  265. 
Leopoldshohe,  the  (near 
Baden)  337. 

—  (near  Bile)  352. 
Leppe,  the  55. 
Letmathe  54. 

Le  Trooz  3. 
Leubadorf  63.  72. 
Lendersdorf  191. 
Lcuk,  the  169. 
Leutesdorf  64.  73. 
Liblar  189. 
Lichtenberg  290. 
— ,  ruin  240. 
Lichtenegg,  ruin  344. 
Lichtenthal  337. 
Liebeneck  105. 
Liebenstein  107.  132. 
Liedberg  50. 
Lifege  3. 
Liepvre  309. 
Lifepvrette,  the  809. 
Lierbach,  the  360. 
Liers  89. 
Lieaer  184.  188. 
— ,  the  184.  196.  198. 199. 
Limburg  (Nassau)  206. 

—  (Belgium)  3. 

—  on  the  Lenne  54. 

—  Abbey  263. 
— ,  ruin  361. 
Limersheim  294. 
Lindelbrunner  Schloss 

277. 
Lindenbach  202. 
Lindenfels  238. 
Lindern  50. 
Lingenfeld  274. 
Lingolsheim  294. 
Linkenheim  265. 
Linn  51. 
Lintgen  177. 
Linz  62.  72. 
Linzerhausen  62. 
Lippe,  the  57. 
Lissendorf  190. 
Liasingen  192. 
Littenweiler  350. 


Litsig  186. 

Lobsann  267. 

Locherberg  361. 

Lochmiihle  (Ahr  Valley) 
88. 

Loef  180. 

Loffelthal,  the  371.  378. 

Loflfenau  354. 

Lofflngen  373. 

Logelbach  315. 

-,  the  296.  316. 

Lohmar  66. 

Lohnberg  207. 

Lohrberg,  the  83.  86. 

Lohrsdorf  86. 

Longcamp  187. 

Longemer,  Lake  318. 

Longen  189. 

Longerich  46. 

Longwich  189. 

Lontzen  8. 

Lorch  116.  132.  135. 

Lorchhausen  116.  132. 

Lorenhof  373. 

Lorentzweiler  177. 

Lorettoberg,  the  349. 

Lorrach  382. 

Lorsbach  229. 

Lorsbacher  Thai,  the 
228. 

Lorsch  236. 

L6rsch  189. 

Losenich  187. 

Louisa  230. 

Louisenthal  168. 

Lousberg.  the  11. 

Louyain  2. 

Lovenich  15. 

Lowenbriicken  169.  175. 
177. 

Lowenburg,  the  84. 

Lowenburger  Hof  84. 

Luchsfelsen  373. 

Ludwigshafen  254.  252. 

Ludwigshohe.the  (Darm- 
stadt) 234. 

— ,  —  (Lindenfels)  238. 

— ,  —  (Freiburg)  349. 

— ,  Villa  266. 

Liilsdorf  57. 

Lundville  291. 

Lurlei,  the  111.  132. 

Lustadt  275. 

Luttenbach  318. 

Lutterbach  297.  320. 

Liittich  3. 

Liitzel  298. 

Liitzelburg  290. 

— ,  ruin  306.  290. 

Liitzelhausen  300. 

Liitzelstein  290. 

Lutzerath  195. 

Lutzer-Thal,  the  181. 


Luzeikibourg  176. 
Luzieberg,  the  234. 

Maarsbergen  16. 
Maas,  the  15. 

Machern  187. 
Madenburg,  the  277. 
Hahlberg  342. 
Maifeld,  the  91. 
Haikammer  265. 
Main,  the  143.  210. 
Hainau,  island  388. 
Mainkur  240. 
Mainz  142. 

Maisachthal,  the  361. 
Maischqnelle,  the  194. 
Maischwiese,  the  194. 
Maison  Neuve  (Metz)  165. 
Maizi^res  168. 
Malancourt  166. 
Malberg,  the  (Ems)  202. 
— ,  chateau  192. 
Malbergskopf ,  the  63. 20Q. 
Malchen,  the  234. 
Mallendar  67. 
Mallingen  178. 
Malmaison  165. 
Malmedy  12. 
Malsch  331. 
Malschbach  338. 
Mambach  381. 
Mamer,  the  177. 
Manderscheid  198. 
Mannchen,  the  110. 
Mannheim  252. 
Mannweiler  157. 
Manternach  176. 
Manubach  116. 
Marainviller  291. 
Marbach  (Alsace)  296. 

—  (Black  Forest)  367. 

—  (Lorraine)  167. 
Marcobrunnen  124. 
Margarethenhof,  the  83. 
Maria-Wald  14. 
Marienberg    (near   Bop- 

pard)  106. 

Marienbom  261. 

Marienburg,  ruin  185.184. 

Marienfels  60. 

Marienrachdorf  73. 

Marienroth,  abbey  179. 

Mariensaule,  the  (near 
Treves)  174. 

Marienstatt  74. 

Marienthal,  monast.  (Al- 
sace) 268. 

— ,  convent  (near  Luxem- 
bourg) 177. 

— ,  (Ahr  Valley)  87. 

—  (Palatinate)  261. 

—  (Rheingau)  123. 
Maring  184. 


INDBX. 


401 


Markelflngen  388. 
Markireh  309. 
Harksburg,  castle  104. 

132. 
Marlborough,  rain  178. 
Marlenheim  BOS. 
Harmoutier  302. 
Mamhelm  261. 
Mars-la-Tour  186. 
Hartinsbof  187. 
Hartinstein  159. 
Masmiinster  322. 
MaBseyaux  322. 
ICastriclit  51. 
Masure,  Ch&tean  de  3. 
Matzenbach  270. 
Hatsenheim  294. 
Hatier  251. 
Haulbtirg  382. 
Manlnsmuhle  177. 
H aursmdiuter  308. 
Haus,  rain  106. 
Maasaul,  rocks  14. 
Xaaseberg,  the  197. 
Mazau  331. 
Haxbnrg,  the  265. 
Haximiliansaa  331. 
Hayen  91. 
Mayence  142. 
Mayener  Bellenberg  91. 
Mayschoas  88. 
Mechernich  190. 
Heekenheim  190. 
Heckesheim  251. 
Medenbach  229. 
Heerfeld  199. 
Meerfelder  Haar,  the  199. 
Meerhoog  17. 
Megingauf  the  180. 
Hehlem  58.  69. 
Mehring  189. 
Meiderieh  52. 
Heisengott  302. 
Heisenheim  158. 157. 269. 
Hei88enheim(Baden)  342. 
Helibocus,  the  234. 
Melkereikopf,  the  358. 
Melkerhtttte,  the  318. 
Mennelsteln,  the  307. 
Hensberg,  castle  178. 
Henzenberg,  the  72. 
Henzenschwand  384. 
Merckweiler  267. 
Mercuriusberg ,  the  340. 
Herl  186. 
Merode  14. 
Merach  177. 
Merten,  monast.  55. 
Hertersdorf  189. 
Mertesheim  262. 
Mertert  178. 
Merzheim  297. 
Herzig  168. 

Babdeksb^s  Rhine. 


Merzweiler  288. 

Mesenich  183. 

Mettenheim  256. 

Mettlach  168. 

Mettmabach,  the  376. 387. 

Hetz  162. 

Metzeburg,  the  206. 

Metzeral  318. 

Hearthe,  the  167. 

Heuse,  the  3. 

Meysembarg  177. 

Hichaelscapelle    (near 
Durlach)  333. 

~  (near  Zabem)  290. 

Hichaels-Lei  187. 

Uichelau  177. 

Michelbaeh  206. 

Hichelstadt  241. 

Uietesheim  288. 

Milspe  53. 

Hiltenberg  241. 

Hinderberg,  the  62. 

Hinder-Litgen  199. 

Mingolsheim  322. 

Uinheim  188. 

Hinneburg,  rain  251. 

Mittelbach  Valley  83. 

Mittelbergheim  307. 

Uittelheim  132. 

Mittelthal  357. 

Uittelzell  388, 

Mitterhansen  239. 

Mittlach  318. 

Hodaa,  the  240. 

M  oIkencar,the  (near  Hei- 
delberg) 248. 

MoUau  321. 

Molsberg  206. 

Holsheim  303. 

Uombach  181. 

Mommenheim  289. 

Monchsberg,  the  316. 

Mondorf  67.  178. 

Honreal  91. 

Honrepos  66. 

Honsheim  262. 

Hontabaur  206. 

Hontabec,  the  817. 

Montclair  169. 

Montfort,  Schloss  157. 

Montforter  Hof  157. 

Uontigny-la-Orange  166. 

Hontjoie  12. 

Hontois-la-Hontagne  166. 

Hontreux-Vieax  298. 

Montroyal  186. 

Honvaax  165. 

Honzel  188. 

Honzelfeld  188. 

Monzingen  159. 

Hoosbrunn  331. 

Moosch  321. 

Mooswald,  the  350. 

10th  Edit 


Horchingen  291. 
Hordnau,  the  342. 
Moresnet  12. 
Morfelden  222. 
Horgenbachthal,  the  117. 
Horlenbach  239. 
M3r8  51. 
Morsbach  13. 
Horsbronn  267. 
Morschheim  261. 
Mosbach  (Oden^ald)  251. 

—  (Biebrich)  126.  133. 

Hoscou  (near  Hetz)  166. 
Hoselkem  189. 
Moselle,  the  178.  68.  94. 

163.  167.  187.  321. 
Hoselweis  179. 
Mosenberg,  the  198. 
Hossig,  the. 308.  304. 
Hothem  275. 
Houlins-les-Metz  165. 
House,  ruin  106. 
House  Tower,  the  119. 
Huchenland  375. 
Hiiden  181. 
Huggenbrunn  372. 
Huggensturm  831. 
Miihlacker  323. 
Hiihlbach  305.  318. 
Huhlbachthal,     the 

(Nassau)  2U4. 
--,  —  (Mayence)  261. 
Huhlburg  331. 
Htihlburgthor  331. 
Hnhlheim  (Hoselle)  188. 
Huhlhofen  67. 
Huhlingen  375. 
Htlhlstein,  the  119. 
Hiihlthal,  the  108. 
Hiilhausen  297. 
Hulheim  am  Bhein  23. 52. 

—  an  der  Ruhr  62. 
Hiillen  203. 
Hullenbach  (Baden)  340. 

—  (HoseUe)  181. 
Hiillenbild  340. 
Hiillenborn  192. 
Hiillheim  351. 
Hiimling  241. 
— ,  the  241. 
Hummelsee,  the  368. 
Hunchen-Oladbach  50. 
Hiinchweiler  276.  270. 
Hundolsheim  289. 
Hunoth  388. 
Hiinster  am  Stein  155. 
Hun8ter(Beich6nau)  388. 

—  (Alsace)  316. 
Htinstereifel  189. 
Hunstel^Haifeld  180. 
HtLnsterthal  (Vosges) 

315. 

26 


402 


INDBX. 


Mfinsterthal  (Blaek- 

Forest)  88a 
Miinz,  the  277. 
Miinzenberg.  ruin  06. 
Hnrbach  819. 
Hurg  886. 

— ,  the  331.  864.  366. 
Hurgtfaal,  the  364.  366. 
Miirlenbach  192. 
MuMbach  264. 
Hiijtert  188. 
Hutterslehen  383. 
Muttentadt  264. 
HtttEig  800. 

Vachtigallenthal,  the  81. 
Nackenheim  256. 
ITagold,  the  333. 
Kahbollenbach  160. 
Vahe,  the  119.  121.  164. 
Namboni  161. 
Kamedy  64. 
Kancy  167. 

ITantersbvirg,  the  194. 
l^apoleonslBBel  298. 
I«fas8au  208. 
— ,  castle  of  204. 
ITassauer  Berg,  the  204. 
National  Monument 

CNiederwald)  128. 
Natzweiler  300. 
Nauheim  (Taunns)  66. 
—  (near  DarmsUdt)  290. 
Neckar,fhe249.2Ba251. 
Neckarau  255. 
Neckarelz  261. 
Neekargemimd  250. 
Neckargerach  251. 
Neckarhausen  250. 
Neckarsteinach  250.  239. 
Neef  188. 
Keersen  60.  51. 
Keerwinden  2. 
Nehren  183. 
Neidenbach  192. 
iJTeidenfels,  ruin  269. 
Neidenstein  251. 
Neitersen  73. 
Nennig  177. 
Neroberg,  the  141. 
Nerothal  141. 
Nerother  Eonf,  the  196. 
Nessonvauz  3. 
Nette,  the  66.  68.  90. 
Netterhof,  the  66. 
Nettersheim  190. 
Neuberg,  the  188. 
Nen-BIankenhain  191. 
Ueu-Breisach  861. 
Keuburg  290. 
~,  abbey  250. 
~,  the  (Neckarelz)  251. 
Neudingen  368. 
Keudorf  126.  133. 


Kea-Eberstein  856. 
Keuenahr  8G.  92. 
Neuenburg  298. 
Neuenbiirg  323. 
Keuendorf  67. 
Neuenfels  378. 
Veuenhain  227. 
Keuenheim  243.  249. 
Neuenweg  881. 
Neu-Filzen  188. 
Neuhaus  (near  Baden) 

340. 
Neuhausen  887. 
Keuhemsbach  167. 
Neu-Eatzenellenbogen 

110. 
Neulussheim  265. 
Neumagen  188. 
Neumagen  -  Bach ,   the 

380. 
Neumiihl  (Eifel)  199. 

—  (Alsace)  293. 

—  (Black  Forest)  380. 
Keun-Aussichten  235. 
Keunkirch  387. 
Keunkirchen  (Kahe  Val- 
ley) 161.  170. 

—  (Eifel)  196. 

—  (Heller  Valley)  66. 
Nennkircher  Hohe  288. 
Keun  Kriimme  238. 
Keun-Linden  344. 
Neuntenstein  806. 
Neureuth  266. 
Neu-8aarwerden  291. 
Neu-Scheuern  291. 
Neuss  47.  51. 
Xeustadt  an  der  Haardt 

264.  268. 

—  an  der  Mumling  241. 

—  (Black  Forest)  373. 
Neuweier  388.  841. 
KeuweUer  290. 
Neuwied  65.  68.  73. 
Neu-Windeck  342. 
KickenicherWeinberg90. 
Nicolaus-Lei  187. 
Kidda,  the  54.  223. 
Nideck  302.  304. 

,  the  302. 
Kideggen  14. 
Kiederberg  100. 
Niederburg  112. 
Kiederbettinsen  191. 
Niederbiber  66. 
Kiederbrechen  229. 
Niederbreiaig  68.  72.  .63. 
Niederbronn  288. 
Niederbruck  322. 
Niederburg(Bude8h.)122. 

,  the  109.  179. 
NiederdoUendorf  71.  68. 
Kiederehe  191. 


Viederemmer  188. 
Kieder-Erbach  206. 
Kieder-Emst  182. 
Niederfell  179. 
KiederflSrsheim  262. 
Kieder-Hammerstein  64. 

73. 
Niederbarmersbacfa  861. 
Kieder-Haslach  802. 
Niederhausen  141.  157. 

158 
Niederheimbach  117. 130. 
Nieder-Hochstadt  226. 
Kiederhovels  66. 
Kieder-Ingelheixn  130. 
Kieder-Kestert  108. 
Niederlauchenhof  318. 
Kiederlahnstein  101. 13a 

131.  199. 
Niederlinxweiler  161. 
Nieder-Liitzingen  92. 
Niedermending  90. 
Kiedermohr  270. 
Nieder-Morschweier  315. 
Ifiedermiihle  385w 
17iederm(instar  306. 
Kiedemhausen  229. 
Nieder-Olm  261. 
Nieder-Otrott  306. 
Nieder-Ramstadt  240. 
Nieder-Saulheim  261. 
Niederschlettenbach  278. 
Kieder-Schopfheim  342. 
Niederschworstadt  386. 
Niederselters  229. 
Niederspay  106. 
Niederwald,  the  127. 
Niederwalluf  126.  183. 
Kiederwasser  365. 
NiederweUer  377.  378. 
Niedcrwerth,  isl.  67.  74. 
Nieder-Wollstadt  57. 
Nieder-Zissen  92. 
Niep  51. 
Kiers,  the  48. 
Kierstein  255. 
Kieukerk  48. 
Nippenburg  365. 
Nippes  46.  64. 
Kirmer  Tunnel,  the  13. 
Nittel  177. 
Kixburg  316. 
Nohen  160. 
Nohfelden  161. 
Nohner  Muhle  191. 
NoissevUle  167. 
Noll,  the  300. 
Nollich  116. 
Nollen,  the  265. 
Nollingen,  castle  116. 
NonnenbachthaL  the  869. 
Nonnenwerth  58.  69.  72. 
Nonnenstromberg,the  88. 


INDEX. 


403 


Nonrod  240. 
Nord-Canal,  the  51. 
yordrachth&l,    the   336. 
Norf  47. 
Korheim  168. 
ITothberg  13. 
Nothgottes,  mon.,  123. 
Kothhauaen  (i6. 
ITothschrei,  Am  372.  875. 
Ifothweiler  278. 
Il^otre  Dame   des    Troia 

Epis  315. 
Nouilly  166. 
Nov^ant  165.  167. 
Noviand  184. 
Niirhurg  191. 
— ,  the  89. 

Niirnberger  Hof,  the  121 
Kussbsch  367. 

Oberachem  359. 
Ober-Aha  375. 
Oberbeaern  338. 
Oberbiber  66. 
OberboUen  381. 
Oberbrechen  229. 
Oberbrack  822. 
Oberburg,  tower  122. 
— ,  the  179. 
Obercassel  (near  Diusel' 

dorf)  47. 
.—  (near  Bonn)  71.  58. 
Oberdiebach  116. 
Oberdollendorf  71. 
Oberehe  191. 
Ober-Ehnheim  303. 
Ober-Emmel  169. 
Ober-Kmst  182. 
Oberfell  179. 
Obertiambach  265. 
Ober-Hammerstein  64.73. 
Oberharmersbach  361. 
Oberhaslach  302. 
Oberhausen  (near  Duis- 

burg)  18.  52. 

—  (Nahe  Valley)  168. 

—  (near  Bergzabem)  266. 
Oberheimbach  117. 
Oberheubronn  379.  381. 
Oberhof  290. 
Oberhollsteig  373. 
Oberhomburg  162. 
ObeMngelheim  130. 
Ober-Kail  199. 
Oberkirch  360. 
Oberlahnstein  103.  132. 
Oberlahnsteiner  Forst- 

haus  105. 
Oberlauchen  318. 
Oberlauchringen  387. 
Ober-LiitEingen  92. 
Ober-Jfanbach  14. 
Obermendig  93. 


Obermodern  290. 
ObermoflOhel  157. 
Obemai  308. 
Oberndorf  864.       . 
Oberneisen  206. 
Obemhausen  240. 
Obemhof  204. 
Ober-Otrott  305. 
Ober-Ramstadt  240. 
Oberried  372. 
Ober-Sackingen  886. 
Oberschaffhansen  344. 
Ober  -  Schonmattenwag 

239. 
Ober-Simonswald  870. 
Oberspay  106. 
Obersteigen  293. 
Oberstein  160. 
Obersteinbach  267.  279. 
Obersulz  319. 
Oberthal  357. 

,  the  366. 
Obertfroth  865. 
Obertiillingen  382. 
Oberursel  224. 
Oberweiler  376.  378. 
Oberwerth  98.  101. 
Oberwesel  111.  130. 
Oberwinter  60.  72. 
Oberwolfach  864. 
Ober-Zissen  92. 
Oberzwieselberg  364. 
Obrigheim  251. 
Ochsenstein  292. 
Ockenfels  62. 
Odendorf  190. 
Odenkircben  13. 
Odenwald,  the  237. 
Oderen  321. 
OdiUenberg,theS06. 
Odilienbninnen  306. 
Odrang,  the  193. 
Oeflingen  384. 
Oelbach,  the  384. 
Oelberg,  the  Great  88. 
Oestrich  132.  124. 
Oetringen  176. 
Ofenkaulenberg,  the  83. 
Offenbach  158.  230.  269. 
Offenburg  342. 
Offenthaler  Hof  llO: 
Ofteringen  387. 
Oggersheim  257. 
Ohligflberg,  the  188. 
OhligB-Wald  52. 
Olbruck,  caatle  92. 
Olef  190. 

Olefthal,  the  190. 
Olpe  54. 
Oos  831. 
— ,  the  834. 
Opel,  the  159. 
Opladen  52. 


Oppenau  361. 
Oppenheim  253. 
Oppum  47.  51. 
Oranienstein  206. 
Orbey  314. 
Orgelbom,  the  107. 
Orscholz  169. 
Orschweier  342. 
Orsoy  18. 
Ortenau,  the  342. 
Ortenberg   (Bl.   For.) 

863. 
~,  Sehloss  348. 
Ortenburg  (Alsace)  304. 
Osterath  47. 
Osterspay  105.  182. 
Ostheim  294. 
Osthofen  256. 
Ottenhofen  359. 
Otterberg  269. 
Ottersweier  342. 
OttersweUer  808. 
Ottmarshelm  298. 
Ottweiler  161. 
Otzberg,  the  240. 
Otzonhansen  161. 
Our,  the  176. 
Ourthe,  the  8. 

Pagny  167. 
Palenberg  60. 
Pallien  174. 
Pallienthal  174. 
Palzem  177. 

Papenkaul,  the  192. 191. 
Papiermiihle  302. 
Paris,  abbey  314. 
Patersberg  110. 
Paulinenberg,  the  185. 
Pelage,  the  306. 
Pellenz  91. 
Pelm  191. 
Peltre  162. 
Pepinster  3. 
Perl  178. 

Petersau,  the  126. 
Petersberg,  the  (near 

Coblenz)  99. 
— ,  —  (Seven  Mta.)  84. 
— ,  —  (near  Alzey)  261. 
— ,  —  (Moselle)  183. 
Peterskopf,  the  268. 
Peterspay  105. 
Petersthal  362. 
PeterzeU  367. 
Petit-Croix  298. 
Pctrusbach,  the  176. 
Pfaffendorf  101.  131. 
Pfaffendorfer  Hohe  100. 
Pfaffenhofen  290. 
Pfaffenrottchen  71. 
Pfaffenwald,  the  364. 

26* 


404 


INDEX. 


Pfahlgraben,  tb*  61.3(0. 

225, 
Pfalx,  the  113.  183. 
Pfalsbar(  381. 
Ffalsdorf  48. 
Pfftl»el  18&.  188. 
Pfftlserafenstein  113. 
Pfeddershelm  356. 
Pflns,  the  323. 
Pflrt  386. 
Pfohren  368. 
Pfonheim  333. 
Pfriembftch.  the  362. 
PfungBtftdt  234. 
PhUipp8hurg(Altace)388. 
—  (Baden)  2».  333. 
Philippshalle  268. 
PhiUppsheim  193. 
Philippanihe  240. 
Pirmasenx  376. 
Pisport  188. 
Plaidt  80. 
Plaidter  Hummeiieh  65. 

90. 
Plankstadt  251. 
Platte,  the  141.  135. 
Platten  184. 
Plattig.  the  342. 
Plettenberg  54. 
Plittersdorf  (Bonn)  58. 
Plixburg  316. 
Point  da  Jour  165. 
Polich  188. 
Poltersdorf  183. 
Pommerbach.  the  181. 
Pommem  181. 
Pont-&-Mouuon  167. 
Poppelsdorf  78. 
Porz  57. 
Posthalde  371. 
Poutroye,  La  314. 
Praest  17. 
Prag  69.  383. 
Pragbach,  the  381.  363. 
Prath  106. 
Prechthal,  the  365. 
Preuschdorf  267. 
Prinzenkopf  (Alf)  184. 

185. 
— ,  —  (Bingerbruck)  121 
Prinsenkbpfchen  108. 
Prum  192. 
Puderbach  73. 
Pulverhahn,  the  84. 
Pulvermaar^  the  197. 
Pulvermiihlenthal,  the 

176 
Punderich  184.  186. 
Piitzfeld  89. 
Pyrmont,  ruin  181. 

Qaadruth  15. 
Queich,  the  266.  275. 


(^uerben  818. 
Qaiddelbach  88. 
Quint,  the  186.  188. 186. 
Qoirftcheid  161. 

Babenlel,  the  71. 
BachUg  187. 
Badolfzell  388. 
Baerea  12. 

Bahrbacher  Hohe  54. 
Bambach  140.  141. 
Bamendorf  58. 
Banuchied  116. 
Bamstein  270. 

,  castie  193.  304. 
Bandeck,  rain  157. 
Banrupt  302. 
Bansbach  73.  275. 
Bappolt0weiler  311.  284. 
Baaselstein  66. 
BaaUtt  331. 
Bathsamhausen  305. 
Bathsamhaiuensteln  306. 
Banbaeh  73. 
Bauenmiinzach,  the  356. 
Bauenthal  123.  126.  133. 
— ,  the  309. 
Baunheim  222. 
Banschermuhle,  the  80. 
BauBcheuBchloflB  107. 
Bavengiersburg  159. 
Bavennathal,  the  371.373. 
Bech  88. 
B^chicourt  281. 
Beden  161. 
Bedlerhutte  321. 
Beeberg,  the  17. 
Bees  17. 
Behberg,  the  (near  Ann- 

weiler)  277. 
Behweiler  270. 
Beichartshausen  124. 
Beichelsheim  241.  240. 
Beichenau  388. 

,  island  388. 
Beichenbach  (Murgthal) 

356 

—  (O'denwald)  238.  235. 

—  (Schutterthal)  363. 

—  (near  Rippoldsau)  364 
Beichenbachthal,  the  365. 
Beichenberg  (Bhine)  110. 

—  (Odenwald)  241. 
Reichelshelm  240. 
Beichenstein  (Bhine)  117. 
Beichenstein  (Keckar- 

thal)  250. 

—  (Boer  Valley)  12. 
Reichenthal  355. 
Beichenweier  312. 
Beichshofen  288. 
Reifferscheid,  ruin  190. 
Beifenberg,  ruin  73. 


Beiherhalde  351. 
BeU.184.  186. 
BeUer  Hals,  the  184. 
Beilkirch  186. 
Beimerzhof(M&  88. 
Beinerzau,  the  364. 
Beinhardshut  184. 
Beinhardamiiiister  283. 

393. 
Beinhartshauaen  135. 
Beinheim  240.  270. 
Beinaport  188. 
Beisberg,  the  314. 
Beiadorf  175. 
Beisaen  239. 
Bemagen  6a  69.  72. 
Remich  178. 
Bemilly  163.  381. 
BemateckerHof,  the  179. 
Benchen  342. 
Rennebach,  the  330. 
Benchthal,  the  360. 
Benneberg,  the  62. 
Betoumemer,  lake  318. 
Reudelsterz  91. 
BeuschenbeK  23. 
Bezonville  1&.  166. 
Bheinau  255. 
— ,  island  124. 
Bheinbaeh  190. 
BheinboUer  Foandryll5. 
Bheinbreitbach  57. 60. 72. 
Bheinbrohl  88.  73.  63. 
Bheindiebach  115. 
Bheineck  63.  68.  72.  82. 
Bheinfelden  385. 
Bheinfels  108. 
Bheingau,  the  122. 
Bheingonheim  264. 
Bheingrafenatein  156. 
Bheinhanaen  47. 
Bheinsheim  255.  323. 
Bheinstein  117. 
Bheinweiler  351. 
Bheinzabem  275. 
Bhena  104.  130. 
Bheydt  50. 

Bhine,  Falla  of  the  387. 
— ,  Old  16. 
Bhine-tfarne  Canal  280. 

290. 
Bhine-Bhone  Canal  280. 
Bhodt  266. 
Bhondorf  58.  71. 
Bibeauvill^  311. 
Bichterich50. 
Bickelshauaen  388. 
Riedaelz  267. 
Riegel  344. 
Biehen  362. 
Biesenzniihle  116. 
Biesensaule,  the  238. 
Bietburg,  the  266.    . 


IKDBX. 


405 


Rilchingen  288. 
Rimbach  (Al«ace)  323. 

—  (Odenwald)  :^9. 
Kimburg  50. 
Rimmerich,  the  196. 
Ringalbach  860. 
Ringsheim  344. 
Rinken,  Auf  dem  874. 
Binntbal  276. 

Riol  189. 

Rippburg,  Che  266. 
Rippoldsaa  865. 
Rissbach  187. 
Rittershausen  58. 
Ritterstarz,  the  98. 
Rixheim  298. 
Rixingen  291. 
Roche  du  Diable,  the  318. 
RochasbeTg  120. 
Rochuscapelle,  the  120. 
Rockenhauften  157.  261. 
Rockeskyll  195. 
Rodalben  (Palat.)  276. 

—  (Lorraine)  291. 
Rodau  240. 
Rodeck  359. 
Rodelheck,  the  194. 
Rodelheim  224. 
Rodenstein,  ruin  241. 24a 
Roderberg,  the  60. 
Roer,  the  14.  12.  50. 
Roeschwoog  275. 
Rohmatt  882. 
Rohrbach  266.  289. 
Rohrhardtflberg  866. 
Roggenbacher  Schlosser, 

the  376. 

Roisdorf  70. 

Roland  Arch  59. 

Rolandeeck  59.  69.  72. 

Rolandswerth  58. 

RoU,  the  321. 

Romansweiler  302. 

Romerkessel,  the  194. 

Romersberg,  the  197. 

Rommersdorf  58.  84. 

— ,  abbey  73. 

Roncourt  166. 

Ronheide  12. 

Roodt  176. 

Roosendaal  17. 

Rosaye,  Ferme  dS2. 

Roeenau,  Mt.  83. 

Rosenburg,  the  78. 

R08engarten268.  234. 

Rosenhohe  233.  240. 

Rosenthal,  conyent  (Mo- 
selle) 181. 

— .  —  (near  Griinstadt) 
262. 

Rosheim  303. 

Rossberg,  the  822. 

Rossbiihl,  the  361. 


Roflsel,  the  129. 
— ,  —  (stream)  182. 
Rossert,  the  229. 
Roflskopf,  the  350.  298. 
Rosport  175. 
Rossstein,  the  111.  132. 
Roth  191. 
Rothau  301. 
Rothbach,  the  819.  380. 
Rothe  Berg  123. 
Rothe  Erde  12.  13. 
Rothe  Kreuz  (Tannns) 

228. 
Rothe  Lay,  the  179. 
Rothemiihle  54. 
Rothenbach  323. 
Rothenbachkopf,  the  319. 
Rothenfels  (Bl.  For.)  354. 
— ,  the  (Nahe)  156. 
Rothenkreuz  375. 
Rothe  Saar,  the  300. 
Rothe  Wasen,  the  322. 
Rothhaos  376.  387. 
Rothlach  306. 
Roth-Malsch  322. 
Rothwiese,  the  381. 
Rotteln,  8chl086  382. 
Rotterdam  15. 
Rottger  Sehloas  18. 
R5ttlerweiler  882. 
Rouge  Gaeon  322. 
RoBerieuUes  166. 
Rudenberg  373. 
Rudeeheim  121.  182. 
Riidesheimer  Berg  118. 

127. 
Rufach  296. 
Ruhr,  the  18.  52.  54. 
Ruhrort  52. 
Rnhstein,  the  357. 
RtOzheim  275. 
Rumbach  278. 
Rnmbachthal,  the  809. 
Rumpenheim  240. 
Riinderoth  55. 
Riingsdorf  58. 
Runkel  207. 
Rnpbachthal  205. 
Russ  300. 
Riisselsheim  222. 
Ruwer  189. 

Baalburg,  the  225. 

Saales  m. 

Saalhof  63. 

Saar,  the   162.   168.  177. 

289.  291. 
Saar-Alben  291. 
Saaraltdorf  291. 
Saarbriicken  161. 
Saarburg  (Alsace)  291. 
—  (Prussia)  169. 
Saargemtind  289. 


Saarlouia  168. 
Saar-Union  291. 
Saarwerden  291. 
Sabelsberg  107. 
SachsenhauBen  215.  210. 
Sachsenhauser  Warte 

230. 
Sackingen  886. 
Safifenburg,  the  88. 
Sahler  Foundry,  the  116. 
Saig  373. 
St.  Ail  166. 

—  Amarin  321. 

—  Amarinthal  320. 

—  Amual  162. 

—  Avoid  162. 

—  Blaise  808. 

—  Blasien  384. 

—  Catharine,  chapel  344. 

—  Chrischona  382. 

—  Di^  802.  814. 

—  Genoveva,  church  90. 

—  Georgen  351.  387. 

—  Goar  108.  130. 

—  Goarshausen  109.  132. 

—  Hubert  165. 

—  Ilgen  322. 

—  Ingbert  270. 
Johann  (near  Saar- 

bnicken)  161. 
—  (near  Zabem)  291. 
(near  May  en)  91. 

—  John,  church  102. 

—  Ereutz  809. 

—  Landolin  344. 

—  Ludwig  (Louis)  299. 

—  Marcel  166. 

—  Margen  872. 

—  Martin  266. 
Matthew  174. 
Maurice  822. 

—  Mazimin,  abbey  175. 

—  Moritz  308. 

—  Nabor  306. 

—  Odilie  306. 

—  Oswald  372. 

—  OttUien  350. 
Paulin  175. 

—  Philip  809. 

—  Pilt  294. 

—  Privat-la-Montagne 
165.  166. 

—  Sebastian  67. 

—  Thomas,  lun.  asylum 

66.  68. 
,  monast.  192. 

—  Tonnis  51. 

—  Trudpert  380. 
Ulrichs-Burg  311. 

—  Vitus,  Grotto  of  292. 

—  Wendel  161. 
Wilhelmsthal372.375. 

Ste.  Croiz-auz-Mines  309. 


406 


HTDBX. 


8ta.  Mari«-ftiix-€hdiies 
165.  166. 

—  Bufane  166. 

—  Harie-aax-Hinea  309. 
8»lm,  cAAtte  301. 

— ,  the  184. 
Salmrohr  185.  IPS. 
Salmthal,  the  189. 
Salzbach,  the  137. 
Salzig  106.  107.  130. 
Salskopf,  the  121.  117. 
Sand  m. 

Sandau,  island  124. 
Sandplacken  228. 
SarreguemJnes  288. 
Sasbach  342. 
Sasbachwalden  342. 
SaUvey  190. 
Sauer,  the  116.  175.  267. 

278. 
Sauerbrunnen  (Badi  161. 
Sauerburg,  casUe  116.113. 
Sauenberg,  the  337. 
Sauerthal  279.  116. 
Saurenbergf  the  81. 
Sausenburg  879. 
Saut  des  Cuvea,  the  318. 
Saverne  289. 
Savoureuse,  the  296. 
Saxler  197. 
Sayn  73.  67. 
Saynbach,  the  67.  73. 
Schaafberg,  the  340. 
Schadeck  207. 
— ,  the  (Neckarsteinach) 

250. 
Schaerbeek  2. 
Schaferhof  293. 
Schaferplacken  156. 
Schaferplate  292. 
Schaffhausen  387. 
Schaidt  266. 
Schalkenmehren  197. 
Schallenberg,  the  83.  84. 
Schallstadt  851. 
Schanzel,  the  265. 
Schapbach  364. 
Scharfenberg,  ruin  277. 
Scharfeneck,  ruin  266. 
Scharfenstein  (Black 

Forest)  380. 

—  (Nassau)  128. 
Scharlachkopf.  the  120. 
Scharrachbergheim  303. 
Scharteberg,  the  195. 
Scharzhof  169. 
Schauenburg,  ruin  360. 
Schau-ins-Land,  the  350. 
Schaumberg,  the  161. 
Schaumburg  2C6. 
Scheffelsee  386. 
Schehlingen  344. 
Schleich  189. 


Scheldt  270. 
Scheldt  270. 
Schendorf  15. 
Schenkenzell  364. 
Scherhohl  267. 
Scherwetler  304. 
Scheuem  204. 
Scheuren  60. 
Sehieburg  177. 
Schierstein  126.  133. 
Schifferstadt  264. 
Sohiffweiler  161. 
Schiltach  364. 

,  the  354.  365. 
Schindelpeter,  342. 
Schirmeck  301. 
Schladem  56. 
Schlaferskopf,  the  141. 
Schlangenbad  133. 
Schlebuflch  52. 
Schlechtnau  381. 
Schleich  189. 
Schleiden  190. 
Schleifmiihle  161. 
Schleitheim  387. 
Schlenderhahn  15. 
Schlettfltadt  294. 
Schliengen  351. 
Schlierbach  248.  250. 
Schlossberg,    the   (Frei< 

burg)  349. 
— ,  —  (Kreusnach)  155. 
— ,  —  (Schirmeck)  301. 
— ,  —  (Wilden8tein)321. 
Schlosswald  316. 
Schluchsee  376. 
Schlucht,  the  317. 
Schlucht,  the  376.  378. 
Schliichtthal,  the  387. 
Schmalbach  356. 
Schmalenstein  323. 
Schmelser-Thal  84. 
Schmelzwaaen  317. 
Schmidburg,  the  159. 
Schmidtheim  190. 
Schneeberg,  the  304. 
Schneethal  293. 
Schneidhain  229. 
Schneifel,  the  194. 
Schnellerts,  ruin  241. 
Schnierlach  314. 
SchoUenbach  242. 
Schomberg  364. 
Schonach  366. 
Schonachthal,  the  365. 
Schonau  (Odenwald)  239. 

—  (Palatinate)  278. 

—  (Wiesenthal)  381. 
Schonberg  (Hessen)  235. 

—  (Black  Forest)  363. 
—J  the  (near  Freiburg) 

Schdnburg,  ruin  112. 


SchSneberg  390. 
SchSneck,  chateau  107. 
Schonenbuchen  381. 
Schonengriind  356. 
SchoBfels  177. 
Schdnmiinsach  356. 
—,  the  366.  357. 
Schdnstatt  74. 
Schonstein,  chateau  56. 
Schonthal  14. 
Schonthal,  the  264.  265. 
Schonwald  369. 
Schopfheim  882. 
Schramberg  365. 
Schriesheim  237. 
Schriesheimerhof  239. 
Schubergsfelsen  378. 
Schuld  89. 
Schurmaee,  the  356. 
Schutterthal,  the  363. 
Schutsalf  196. 
SchwabachThal  364. 
Schwabenachanse  361. 
Schwabweiler  267. 
Schwalbach  134.  116. 

,  Burg  206. 
Schwanenwasen  341. 
Schwanheim  222.  276. 
Schwankirche  181. 
Schwarea ,  the  387. 
Schwarsach,  341. 
— ,  the  378. 
Schwarzbach,  the  (Tatb- 

nus)  228. 
— ,  —  (Black  Forest)  356. 
Schwarz-Rheindorf  58. 
Schwarzenacker  270. 
Schwarzenberg  356. 
Schwarzenbom  199. 
Schwanenburg,  ruin  316. 
Schwarae  See,  the  314. 
Schwarzhalde,  the  376. 
Schwarzsee  386. 
Schwarzwald  352. 
Schwedenachanze  361. 
Schweich  185.  189. 
Schweighausen  288.  290. 
Schweighof  378.  379. 
Schweizerthal  (St.  Goar) 

110. 
— ,  —  (near  Ema)  203. 
Schwelm  53. 
Schweppenhausen  115. 
Schweppenburg,  the  91. 
Schwetzingen251.237.25&. 
Sechtem  70. 
Seebach  358. 
— ,  the  357.  358.  373.  374. 
Seebrugg  376. 
Seebuck,  the  374. 
Seeheim  234. 
Seelach,  the  338. 
Seelenborn  228. 


INDEX. 


407 


Segendorf  66. 
Sehl  182. 
Sehringen  378. 
Seifen  78. 
Seille,  the  163. 
Seipelseckle  357. 
SeligenaUdt  240. 
Sellhof  73. 
Selters  73. 
Selz  261.  27&. 
Sembach  167. 
Senhals  183. 
Benbeim  183. 
Sennheim  320. 
Sentheim  323. 
Serva,  Cascade  de  la  800, 
Servance,  Ballon  de  322. 
Servigny  167. 
Sesenheim  275. 
Seven  Mountains,  the  79. 

—  Virgins,  the  111. 
Sewen  322. 
Sieheldingen  275. 
Siebenborn  184. 
Siebengebirge  79. 
Siedelsbmnn  239. 
Sleg,  the  55.  71. 
Siegburg  56.  71. 

— ,  abbey  55.  54. 
Siegen  54. 

Siegfriedsbrunnen  269. 
Sierck  178. 
Sierentz  299. 
Siershahn  7^. 
Sigolsheim  312. 
Simmerbacb,  the  159. 
Simmern  159.  107. 
Simonswald  370. 
Singen  368.  388. 
Sinn  56. 
Sineheim  341. 
Sinzig  68.  72.  63. 
Sire,  the  176. 
Simita  879. 
Sobernheim  156. 
Soden  226. 
Soersthal,  the  11. 
Sohlberg,  the  859. 
Solingen  62. 
Sollig,  the  186. 
S611ingen  323. 
Sommerau  367. 
Sondemach  318. 
Sondemheim  276. 
Sonnborn  CQ. 
Sonnenberg  (min)  140. 

—  (Nahe)  160. 
Sonsbeek  17. 
Sooneck  117. 
Soonwald,  the  169. 
Sophienrohe  (near 

Baden)  339. 

—  (Badenweiler)  378. 


65tem  161. 
Sourbrodt  12. 
Spa  3. 

Spangenberg,  ruin  269. 
Sparsbrod  2&3. 
Speicher  193. 
Speierskopf  141. 
Speldorf  47. 
Spesburg  305. 
Speyer  271. 
Speyerbach,  the  268. 
Speyererhof  248. 
Spicheren  162. 
Spielweg,  Am  380. 
Spires  271. 
Spirkelbach  276. 
Spitzenstein.  the  109. 
Sponeck,  ruin  361. 
Sponheim  168. 
Sporeninsel  288. 
Sporkenburg,  the  203. 
Sprendlingen  260. 
SpringeJsbach  373. 
Springirsbach  184.  185. 
Sprink  195. 
Stadtkyll  190. 
Staffel  206. 
Stahlberg,  castle  116. 
Stahleck,  castle  116. 
Stammheim  23. 
Starkenburg,  the  (Hes- 
sen)  236. 

—  (Moselle)  186. 
SUudemheim  168. 
6taufen(Munsterthal)880. 
— ,  the  (Taunus)  239. 
— ,  the  (near  Thann)  330. 
— ,  the  Grosse  340. 

— ,  the  Kleine  340. 
Staufenberg  (Baden)  340. 
— ,  casUe  348. 
Staufenburg,  the  880. 
Stavelot  13. 
Steeg  116. 

Steeger-Thal  114.  116. 
Steele  62. 
Steige  302. 
Stein,  Burg  (Nassau)  204. 

—  (near  Sayn)  73. 
Steinach  363. 

— ,  the  239. 
Steinachmiihle  376. 
Steinachthal  376.  388. 
Steinbach  341.  838. 

—  (Odenwald)  241. 
Steinberg,  the  125.  128. 
Steinbom  196. 
Steinburs  289. 
Steinen  382. 
Steinfeld  190.  266. 
Stein-Eallenfels  159. 
Steinwenden  270. 
Steinthal  301. 


Stenselbei^,  the  83. 
Sterkrade  18.  52. 
Stern-See,  the  822. 
Sternerhiitte,  the  62. 
Sterrenberg  107.  132. 
Stetten  382. 
Stieringen  162. 
Stockborn,  the  228. 
Stockhausen  207. 
Stockstadt  222. 
Stolberg  13. 
Stolzeneck  251. 
Stolzenfels  102.  98. 
Storkensauen  321. 
Stossweier  817. 
Stotzheim  308. 
Strahlenburg,  the  237. 
Strassburg  279. 
Strengbach,  the  309. 
Strohn  195.  197. 
Strohner  Maar  197. 
Stromberg  115. 
Strotzbusch  195. 
Stuben,  monast.  183. 
Sttickelmuhle,  the  140. 
Stiihlingen  387. 
Siichteln  48.  51. 
SiichtelnYorst  51. 
Sufflenheim  276. 
Suggenthal  371. 
Sulz  (Upper  Vosges)  312. 

—  unter  dem  Walde  267. 
Stazbach  (Alsace;  316. 

—  (Baden)  361. 

—  (on  the  Nahe)  160. 

—  (near  Saarbrucken)161. 

—  (near  Soden)  226. 
— ,  the  133.  135.  226, 
Sulzbad  303. 
Sulzburg  361. 

Sulzer  Belchen,  the  321. 
Sulzern  317. 
Sulzmatt  297. 
Sundgau,  the  297.  298. 
Sundhofen  361. 
Sure,  the  176.  177. 
Siirth  57. 

Tannenberg  234. 
Tannenfels  367. 
Tannchel,  the  311. 
Taubenschlagfelsen  290. 
Taunus,  the  223. 
Tellberg,  the  92. 
Tempelhof.  the  (Ni«der- 

breisig)  63. 
— ,  —  (Moselle)  179. 
Temple  (Niederw.)  128. 
Teterchen  162.  168. 
Tetingen  162. 
Teufelsberg,  the  266. 
Teufelskaderich ,    the 

122. 


408 


INPBX. 


Teafelikansel  (new 
AdenM)  88. 

—  (near  Ba46n)  389. 
TeafelBlelter  269. 
TeufeUmtthle,  Um  3M. 
Teufelsstein,  the  363. 
Thai  EhrenbreiUtein  99. 

—  Bhelneolc  68. 

—  Veldens  18S. 
Thalhaiu  2S2. 
Thann  320. 
Thannenkirch  810. 
Thanweiler  906. 
Thavingen  388. 
TheisbergBtegen  270. 
Thennenbronn  385. 
Theodonhalle  lfi5. 
Thienen  2, 
Thiengen  386. 
Thiergarten  341. 
Thionville  168. 
Tholey  161. 
Thoniich  189. 
Thpon  188. 

— ,  the  188. 
Thur,  the  297.  320. 
Thurant,  ruin  180. 
Thurmberg,  the  323. 
Thumberg,  ruin  106. 
Thurner,  the  372. 
Thoron,  ruin  180. 
Tiefenbach  267. 
Tiefenbachthal.  the  188. 
Tiefenhauaem  3S5. 
Tiefenstein  386. 
Tiefenthal  133. 
Tilly-Stein  250. 
Tirlemont  2. 
Titisee,  the  373. 
Todtmoofl  383. 
Todtmoos-Au  383. 
Todtnau  361. 
Todtnauberg  381. 
Todtnaaer  Uutte  374. 
Tomberg,  niin  190. 
Tonnerre,  Mont  261. 
Tonnisstein,  bath  92. 
Traben  184.  186. 
Trabener  Berg,  the  186. 
Traisa  240. 
Trarbach  184.  186. 
Trauerbuche  141. 
Trautzberg  195. 
Trechtlingshausen  117. 

130. 
Treis  181. 

Treiaer  Schock  181. 
Treves  169. 
Triberg  366. 
Triefenthal  266. 
Triembach  308. 
Trier  169. 
Trifelfl  276. 


Trimbom  12. 
Trips,  chatean  fiO. 
Trittenheim  188. 
Troisdorf  66. 
Troia  £pi«  815. 
—  Vierges  177. 
Trompet  51. 
Troneck  188. 
Truttenhauaen  306. 
Trutzeltz  181. 
Tuni-Berg,  the  360l 
Tiirkhcim  315. 
Tiirkiamuhle  161. 

TIbstadt  322. 
UeberlingerSee,  the  388. 
Ueckingen  166. 
Uedem  48. 
Uedersdorf  196. 
Uhlingen  387. 
Uelmen  196. 
Uelmener  Haar  196. 
Ucrdingen  51. 
Uerzig  184.  187. 
Uesbach,  the  194. 
Uf  Hochfeldea  314. 
Ulflingen  177. 
Unkel  60.  72. 
Ungertberg  303. 
Unter-Aha  376. 
Unter^Barmen  52. 
Unter-Beuem  3^ 
Untereggingen  387. 
Unter-Gvombach  322. 
Unterhallau  387. 
Unterharmenbaohthal, 

the  363. 
Unterklrnach  367. 
Unter-Haubach  14. 
Unter-Hiinsterthal  380. 
Unter-Beidelbach  238. 
Unter-8oh6nmattenwag 

239. 
Untersee,  the  388. 
Unter-Simonswald  370. 
Unterwasserthal,  the  359. 
Urbach  300.  313. 
Urbar  67. 
Urbeis  314. 
Urbifl  321. 
Urft  190. 
-,  the  190. 
Urmatt  300. 
Urmiti  67.  68. 
Umagold  366. 
Utrecht  16. 
Utsch  192. 
Utzenfeld  381. 

Val  Benott,  Pont  dn  3. 
Val  de  VilliS  309. 
Vallendar  74.  67. 
Valwig  182. 


Vaudrefange  168. 
Vecht,  the  16. 
Veenendaal  17. 
Veitskopf,  the  92. 
Veldens  188. 
Velp  17. 
Veluwe.  the  17. 
Vendenheim  268.  289. 
Venlo  61. 

Ventron,  Col  du  318. 
Vem^ville  165.  166. 
Vemich  189. 
Verviers  3. 
Vesdre,  the  3. 
Vettweifl  189. 
Vianden  175. 
Victoriaberg,  the  61. 
Vlctoriabrunnen  104. 
Vieille-Montagne  3. 
Viersen  61. 
Vilbel  57.  222. 
VilW  308. 
Villingen  867. 
Villmar  207. 
VionvUle  166.  166. 
Vimeberg  6a  72. 
Vogelbach  379. 
Vogelbachthal  378. 
Vogisheim  378. 
Vogtsburg  344. 
Vohrenbach  869. 
Vohwinkel  62. 
Volkeraweiler  277. 
VSlklingen  168. 
Volcanic  Bifel,  the  193. 
Vollraths  124.  123. 
Volme,  the  54. 
Vologne,  the  317. 
Volpertshansen  206. 
Vorbruck  301. 
Vorder-Langenbach  357. 
Vorder-Seebach  368. 
Vorder-Todtmooa  383. 
Vorder-Weidenthal  278. 
Vorgebirge,  the  16.  70. 

78.  189. 
Vormthal  364. 
Vorst  51. 
Vosgea,  the  299.  291. 

Wachenheim  (Bhen. 

Hessen)  262. 
—  (Palatinate)  264. 
Wachtenburg.  the  264. 
Wadenheim  86. 
Wagenateigthal,  the  372. 
Waghaasel  266. 
Wahlenburg  296. 
Wahlheim  261. 
Wahn  66. 
Waibatadt  261. 
Walbach  316. 
Walburg  266. 


INDKX. 


409 


Wftldaa  369. 
Waldbroel  65.  56. 
Waldbockelheim  157.168. 
Waldeck,  the  131. 
—,  ruin  180. 
Waldersbach  301. 
Waldhof  222. 
Waldkirch  870. 
Wald-Leiningen  241. 
Waldmichelbach  239. 
Waldsberg  307. 
Waldsee,  the  350. 
Waldshut  386. 
Walheim  12. 
Walldorf  222. 
Wallerfangen  168. 
Wallersheim  67. 
Wallertheim  260. 
Wallhausen  161. 
Wallmepod  206. 
Walporzheim  87. 
Walsheim  270. 
Wambach  134. 
Wangen  306. 
Wangenburg  304.  293. 
Wanzell  309. 
Wanzenau  275. 
Warche,  the  12. 
Warcke,  the  177. 
Waremme  2. 
Warenburg,  the  367. 
Wartenstein ,  castle  159. 
Wartesberg,  the  195. 
Warth,  the  196. 
Wasen  380. 
--.  the  Rothe  322. 
Wasenberg,  the  288. 
Waaenburg,  the  288. 
Wasenweiler  360. 
Wasgau,  the  275. 
Washolder  Hof  89. 
Wasigenfltein,  the  279. 
Wasselnheim  303. 
Wassenach  92. 
WasaerbiUig  176. 
Wasserliesch  175.  177. 
Webeplei,  the  198. 
Wecker  176. 
Weeze  48. 
Wegelburg,  the  278. 
Wegscheid  322. 
Wehlen  187. 
Wehnthal,  the  14. 
Wehr  382.  333. 
Wehra,  the  383. 
Wehra-Strasse  383. 
Wehra-Thal  383. 
Wehrbusch,  the  196. 
Welden   (near     Aiz-la- 

Chapelle)  13. 
—  (near  Cologne)  46. 
Weidenthal  269. 
Weihermatt  293. 


Weicr  im  Thai  316. 
Weilach  263. 
Weilbach  223.  241. 
Weilburg  207. 
Weiler  308.  320. 
WeUerswist  189. 
Weilerthal  309. 
Weilthal  207. 
Weinbiet,  the  265. 
Weinfelder  Kirche  197. 
—  Haar  197. 
Weingarten  323. 
Weinheim  236. 
Weisenau  255. 
Weisenheim  257. 
Weiskirchen  224. 
Weismes  12. 
Weiss,  the  312. 
Weisse  Kreuz,  the  88. 
Weissenbach  365. 
Weissenburg  266. 
Weissenfels,  the  159. 
Weissenthurm  66.  68. 
Weisse  See,  the  314. 
Weisshaus  174. 
Weisstannenhuhe  372. 
Weissthal,  the  313.  314. 
Weiten  169. 
Weitersburg  74. 
Weiterstadt  230. 
Weizen  387. 
Wekmund  296. 
Welgesheim  260. 
Welkenhausen  3. 
Wellen   177. 
Wellesweiler  270. 
Welmich  106.  106.  132. 
Welschbruch  307. 
Welschen-Ennest  54. 
Wembach,  the  240. 
Wenau  14. 
Wendel  162. 
Wengerohr  184. 
Werdohl  54. 
Werlau  mines  108. 
Wernerseck,  ruin  90. 
Werrach  383. 
Werschweiler  (Gonyent) 

270. 
Werth  13. 

Weschnitz,  the  236.  239. 
Wesel  17. 
Wesserling  321. 
Wessling  57. 
Westfalische  An  124. 
Westheim  275. 
Westhofen  303. 
Westrich,  the  268. 
Wetterberg,  the  277. 
Wetzlar207.  56. 
Wevelinghoven  14. 
Weyersbach  198. 
Wichelahof,  the  58. 


Wickrath  50. 
Widdig  57. 

Wiebelsbach  240.  241. 
Wiebelskirchen  161. 
Wled,  the  66.  66.  73.  74. 
Wieden  381. 
Wiedenereck  350.  380. 
Wiedenfelaen  312. 
Wiehl,  the  65. 
Wiehre  371. 
Wierschem  180. 
Wiesbaden  135. 
Wiese,  the  362.  375.  381. 
Wiesenscheid  191. 
Wieaenthal  265. 
— ,  the  381. 
Wiesloch  322. 
Wilchingen  387. 
Wildbad  323. 
Wildenburg,  the  160. 181. 

190. 
Wildenstein  321. 
Wilde  See,  the  358. 
Wildgutach  370. 
Wildgntachthal,  the  370. 

^27 
Wildschapbachthal  362. 

364. 
Wildsee,  the  324. 
Wildstein  187. 
Wilferdingen  323. 
Wilgartswiesen  276. 
Wilhelmsbad  240. 
WiUerwald  291. 
Wilseck  193. 
Wiltingen  169. 
Wiltz  177. 
Wilverwiltz  177. 
Wilwerath  192. 
Wilwisheim  289. 
Wilz,  the  177. 
Winberg,  the  300. 
Winchringen  177. 
Windeck  ^ergstrasse) 

236. 

—  (Siegthal)  66. 
Windecker  279. 
Winden  (Baden)  331. 

—  (near  Daren)  14. 

—  (Palat.)  266. 
Windesheim  115. 
Windhausen  107. 
Windschlag  342. 
Windstein  279. 
Wineck  279. 
Winkel  124.  132. 
Winneburg,  the  182. 
Winningen  179. 
Winnweiler  157.  261. 
Winterberg,  the    (near 

Ems)  202. 
— ,   —   (Saarbriicken) 
162. 


410 


INDEX. 


Wintericb  188. 
WinlerkMtener  Hdhe 

240.' 
WinterscMick  190. 
Winterswyk  18. 
Wiazenheim  316. 
Winzingen,  min  265. 
Wirft  191. 

wirges  aoe. 

Wisch  300. 
Wisneck  372. 
Wiflten  06. 
WUsort,  the  318. 
Wisper,  the  116. 
Wiflperthal,  the  116. 
Wittelsheim  297. 
Wittlich  184. 
Witznauer  Miihle  387. 
Woippy  167. 
Wolf  187. 
Wolfach  363. 
Wolfbach,  the  364. 
Wolferdange  177. 
Wolfhezen  17. 
Wolflsheim  294. 
Wolfsbrunnen,  the  248. 
Wolfgburg,  ruin  266. 268. 
Wolfsgarten  14. 
Wolfskehlen  222.  234. 
Wolfskirchen  291. 
Wolfskopf  350. 
Wolfflflchlncht,  the  339. 
Wolfsthal  302. 
Wolkenburg,  the  83. 


Wollmesheim  277. 
Wolmsathal,  the  317. 
Wolz,  the  177. 
Wonnegaa,  the  207. 
Woiuheim  260.  107. 
Worms  207. 
Worringen  46. 
WSrrstadt  261. 
Worsdorf  229. 
Warth  (Alsace)  267. 
—  (Palatinate)  270.  331. 
— ,  chateau  3OT. 
Wupper,  the  23.  02. 
Wurgersdorf  06. 
Wurm,  the  00. 
Wiirm,  the  323. 
Wttrselen  13.  14. 
Wiirzbaoh  270. 
Wutach,  the  387. 
Wyhlen  886. 


Xanten  48. 
Tachthal,  the  366. 
Tburg,  castle  341. 
Tssel,  the  16. 

Zabern  289. 

Zaberner  Senke  289.  290. 
Zahlbach  152. 
Zahringen  344. 
Zarten  372. 
Zastlerthal,  the  372.  375. 


Zanberhdhle,  the  129. 
Zeiskam  270. 
Zelst  16. 
Zell  (Alsace)  314. 

—  (Kinzigthal)  363. 

—  (Moselle)  186.  183. 

—  (Mtimlingthal)  241. 

—  (Palatinate)  262. 

—  (Wiesenthal)  382. 
Zellenberg  312. 
Zeller  Blauen,  the  382. 
Zeltlngen  187. 
Zendscheid  192. 
Zerkall  14. 
Zevenaar  17.  49. 
Zeven  169. 
Zicklenbnrg  72. 
Ziegelhansen  239.248.200. 
ZilUsheim  298. 
Zinzelthal,  the  290. 
Zipfen  240. 

Zollhaus  206. 
Zona  47. 

Zom,  the  268.  289. 
Zotzenheim  260. 
Ziilpich  189. 
Zurlauben  174. 
Zusenhofen  360. 
Zweibriicken  270. 
Zweibriiggen  00. 
Zweribach,  the  370. 
Zwickgabel  357. 
Zwleselbach  365. 
Zwingenbezg  ^4.  201. 


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