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THE  RHINE. 


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HONET  TABLE. 

(Comp.  p.  xiii.) 
Approximate  Eqniyalents. 


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French 

German 

Austrian 

Money. 

Englisu  jnuney. 

Money. 

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THE  RHINE 

FROM 

ROTTEEDAM  TO  CONSTJLNOE 


HANDBOOK  FOB  tSATELlEBS 

BY 

EARL  BAEDEKER 


With  45  Maps  and'26  Plans 
FIFTEfiHTH  BEVISED  EDITIOH 


LEIPSICt  KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER 

LOiroON:  DULAU  Ain>  CO.,  37  SOHO  SQUAEE,  W. 
NBW  TOEK:   CHAELES  SCBIBNEB'S  SONS,  163/167  FIFTH  AVENUE 

1903 

All  rights  reserved. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


KIBVARD  PINE  ARTS  LIBRAHY 
FOGG  MUSEUM 


*Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  aft«r  their  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 


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PREFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  the  Rhine  is  to 
supply  the  traveller  with  such  information  as  will  render 
him  as  nearly  as  possible  independent  of  hotel-keepers, 
commissionnaires,  and  guides,  and  thus  enable  him  the 
more  thoroughly  to  enjoy  and  appreciate  the  objects  of 
interest  he  meets  with  on  his  tour. 

The  Handbook  is  based  almost  entirely  upon  the  per- 
sonal observation  of  the  Editor,  and  the  country  de- 
scribed has  been  repeatedly  explored  by  him  with  a 
view  to  procure  the  latest  possible  information ;  but,  as 
changes  are  constantly  taking  place,  he  will  highly  appre- 
ciate any  communications  with  which  travellers  may 
kindly  favour  him,  if  the  result  of  their  own  experience. 
Those  already  received  from  numerous  correspondents, 
which  he  gratefully  acknowledge^^ ,  have  in  many  cases 
proved  most  serviceable. 

The  present  edition,  which  corresponds  with  the  29th 
in  German  and  the  17th  in  French,  has  been  thoroughly 
revised  and  brought  up  to  date.  For  the  article  on 
Rhenish  Art  the  Editor  is  indebted  to  the  late  Professor 
Anton  Springer  of  Leipsic. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  on  which  special  care  has 
been  bestowed,  will  often  render  material  service  to  the 
traveller,  and  enable  him  at  a  glance  to  ascertain  his 
bearings  and  select  the  best  routes. 

Time  Tables.  Information  regarding  trains,  steam- 
boatd,  and  diligences  is  most  trustworthy  when  obtained 
from  local  sources.  The  best  German  publications  of 
the  kind  are  'HendscheVs  TelegrapK  (2  Jt]  ,  published 
at  Frankfort  on  the  Main,  and  issued  monthly  during 
the  summer  season,  and  the  ^Eeichs^Kursbuch*  (2  Jt) , 
published  at  Berlin,  issued  eight  times  a  year. 

Heights  are  given  in  English  feet  (1  Engl.  ft.  == 
0,3048  m^tre).  Distances  in  English  miles  (except  in  the 
oase  Qf  mountain-excursions,  where  the  time  ihey  occupy 

Digitized  by  VjCTOk 


vl  PREFACE. 

is  given  as  more  conyenient) ,  and  the  Populations  in 
accordance  with  the  most  recent  census. 

Hotels.  The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  enumerate, 
•not  only  the  first-class  hotels ,  hut  others  also  of  more 
modest  pretensions,  which  may  be  safely  selected  by  the 
.^voyageur  en  garden',  with  little  sacrifice  of  comfort 
and  great  saving  of  expenditure.  Although  changes  fre- 
quently take  place,  and  prices  generally  have  an  upward 
tendency,  the  average  charges  stated  in  the  Handbook 
will  enabk  the  tfaveller  to  form  a  fair  estimate  of  his  prob- 
able expenditure.  It  is  advisable  to  ascertain  the  charge 
for  rooms  in  advance.  The  asterisks  indicate  those  hotels 
which  the  Editor  has  reason  to  believe  to  be  provided 
with  the  comforts  and  conveniences  expected  in  an  up- 
to-date  establishment,  and  also  to  be  well  managed  and 
with  a  reasonable  scale  of  charges.  Houses  of  a  more 
modest  character,  when  good  of  their  class,  are  described 
as  *fair'  or  ^very  fair'.  At  the  same  time  he  does  not 
doubt  that  comfortable  quarters  may  often  be  obtained  at 
inns  which  he  has  not  recommended  or  even  mentioned. 

The  Editor  regrets  that  he  is  unable  to  answer  all 
communications.  To  hotel-proprietors,  t!radesmen,  and 
others  be  begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  deal- 
ing and  courtesy  towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  pass- 
port to  his  commendation ,  and  that  advertisements  of 
every  kind  are  strictly  excluded  from  his  Handbooks. 


Abbreviations. 

B.  =  room,  route;  L.  ss  luncheon^  Ught;  B.  =  breakfast;  D.  =  dinner; 
S.  =  sapper;  A.  =  attendance;  rfmts.  =  refresbments ;  pens.  =  pension 
(i.e.  boara  and  lodging).  —  TS.  =  north,  northern,  etc.;  S.  =:  south,  etc.; 
E.  =  east,  etc.;  W.  =  west,  etc.  —  r.  =  right;  L  =  left.  —  M.  =  English 
mile;  ft.  c=  Engl.  foot.  —  J#  =  mark;  pf.  =  pfennig;  fr.  =  franc;  c.  = 
centime.  —  hr.  =  hour;  min.  =  minute.  —  Carr.  =  carriage;  omn.  = 
omnibus.  —  ca.  =  circa,  about.  —  Gomp.  ss  compare. 

The  letter  d  with  a  date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates  the 
year  of  his  death.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of  a  place  in- 
dicates its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  number  of  miles  placed  be- 
fore the  principal  places  on  railway-routes  and  highroads  generally  indi- 
cates their  distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


Asterisks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 

'  Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


CONTENTS. 

Page 

I.  Language xiii 

n.  Money.  Travelling  Expenses xiii 

m.  Passports.   Custom  House xiv 

rv.  Routes  from  London  to  the  Rhine xiv 

V.  Railways xv 

VI.  Steamboats.    Fall,  Breadth,  Length,  and  Depth  of 

the  Rhine xvi 

VII.  Walking  Excursions xviii 

VIU.  Cycling  Notes xviU 

IX.  Hotels xix 

X.  Climate.    Grape  Cure xx 

XI.  Wines  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle xxi 

XII.  Rhenish  Art xxiv 

Boate. 

1.  From  Brussels  to  Cologne 1 

Enyirons  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  12.  —  From  Aix-la-Ghapelle  to 
Malmedy,  13.  —  The  Valley  of  the  Roer.  Nideggen.  Heim- 
bach.  From  Diiren  to  Neuss  and  to  Jiilich,  15.  From  Horrem 
to  Liblar  and  Ameln,  16. 

2.  From  Rotterdam  to  Cologne 16 

From  Oberhaasen  to  Ruhrort,  19.  —  Environs  of  Diisaeldorf. 
From  Miilheim  to  Oladbach,  Bensberg,  and  Immekeppel,  25. 

3.  Cologne 26 

4.  From  Cologne  to  Neuss  (Dusseldorf),  Crefeld,  and  Cieve   .     55 

From  Nenss  to  Obercassel  (DQsseldorf),  66.  —  From  Goch  to 
Wesel.  Xanten,  58.  —  From  Gleve  to  Elten  and  Zevenaar 
and  to  Galcar,  59. 

5.  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Diisseldorf  vi&  Gladbach  ....     60 

Schloss  Dyck,  60. 

6.  From  Gladbach  to  Crefeld,  Duisburg,  and  Essen  ....     61 

From  Viersen  to  Venlo  (Flushing,  Rotterdam,  Maastricht).  61. 
—  From  Viersen  to  Moers  via  Crefeld.    Rheinberg,  61,  62. 

7.  From  Cologne  to  Elberfeid  and  Hagen 62 

From  Opladen  to  Lennep.  Altenberg,  62.  —  From  Ohligs  to 
Solingen  and  Vohwinkel.  Kaiser -Wilhelm-Briicke,  63.  — 
From  Elberfeid  to  Dusseldorf,  65. 

8.  From  Cologne  to  Frankfort  via  Giessen 65 

9.  The  Rhine  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz 68 

Basalt  Quarries  of  Dattenberg  and  the  Minderberg,  73.  — 
From  Keuwied  to  Honrepos  and  Altwied,  77. 

10.  From  Coblenz  to  Cologne.    Railway  Journey 78 

11.  From  Cologne  (Deutz)  to  Ehrenbreitstein  (Coblenz)  ...     81 

From  Engers  to  Siershahn,  83. 

12.  Bonn 84 

13.  The  Seven  Mountains  (SUbengebirge) 91 

14.  VaUey  of  the  Ahr 97 

Eeaselinger-Thal  and  Denathal.  Aremberg,  101.  —  Hohe  Acht. 
Nftrbmrg,  102.  ( 

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liU  CONTENTS. 

Boute  Page 

15.  From  Andeinach  and  from  BroU  to  the  Laacher  See   .    .  102 

16.  Coblenz  and  its  Environs 105 

17.  The  Rhine  from  Coblenz  to  Mayenee 112 

From  Braabach  to  Nastatten,  115.  —  Alte  Burg,  near  Boik 
pard.  Fleckertshohe,  117.  —  From  Boppard  to  Brodcn- 
bacb,  118.  —  Spitzenstein.  Schweizer-Tbal.  120.  —  Reichen- 
berg.    From  St.  Goarsbausen  to  ZolUiaus  vi&  Naat'atten,  121. 

—  Steeger-Tbal,  124.  —  Wisper-Tbal.  From  Lorcb  to 
Scbwalbacb,  125.  —  Tbe  Sauerburg.   Morgenbacb-Tbal,  126. 

—  EUsenbohe,  130.  —  Walk  in  the  Rbeingau,  131.  —  Ei- 
bingen,  132.  —  Hallgarten.  Eberbach  and  tbe  Steinberg, 
133,  134.  —  Kiedrich.    Grafenberg.    Scbarfenstein,  136. 

18.  The  Niederwald 136 

19.  From  Coblenz  to  Mayenee.   Railway  on  the  Left  Bank     .     139 

20.  From  Coblenz  to  Wiesbaden.    Schlangenbad  and  Schwal- 

bach.    Railway  on  the  Right  Bank 140 

From  Eltville  to  Schlangenbad,  142.  —  From  Schlangenbad 
to  Wiesbaden.  From  Wiesbaden  to  Schwalbach  and  Lim- 
burg,  148. 

21.  Wiesbaden 145 

22.  Mayenee 154 

23.  From  Bingerbruek  to  Kreuznach,  Saarbriieken,  and  Metz     165 

From  Kreuznach  to  the  Gans,  Bheingrafenstein,  and  Hiinstet 
am  Stein,  168.  —  Ebernbnrg.  Rothenfels.  Altenbaumburg. 
Lemberg.  From  Kreuznach  to  Wallhansen  and  to  Winter- 
burg,  169.  —  From  Miinster  am  Stein  to  Kaiserslautem, 

170  —  From  Staudemheim  to  Meisenheim.    Schloss  Dhaun, 

171  —  Idar,  172.  —  Hunnenring.  Tholey,  178.  —  Heights 
of  Spicheren.  St.  Amual,  174.  —  The  Battle  Fields  near 
Metz,  177.  —  From  Metz  to  Pagny,  179. 

24.  From  Saarbrucken  to  Treves,  and  thenee  to  Luxembourg 

and  Metz 180 

Hontclair.    The  Clef.    Gastel.    The  Klaus,  181. 

25.  From  Coblenz  to  Treves  by  the  Moselle  and  by  Railway     190 

Ehrenburg.  Miinster-Maifeld.  Schloss  Eltz,  192,  198.  — 
From  Alf  to  Bertrich,  196.  —  Rodelheck.  Falkenlei,  197.  ~ 
From  Piinderich  to  Traben-Trarbach,  197.  —  From  Wenge- 
rohr  to  Bemcastel,  198.  —  Kautenbacb-Thal.  Wildbad 
Trarbach.    Bad  Wildstcin,  199.  —  Tiefenbacb-Thal,  201. 

26.  The  Volcanie  Eifel 202 

a.  Railway  from  Cologne  to  Treves 202 

From  Euskirchen  to  Duren,  to  Bonn,  and  to  Hiinstereifel. 
From  Call  to  Hellenthal,  203.  —  From  Hillesheim  to  Adenau, 

204.  —  From  Gerolstein  to  Prclm  and  St.  Vith  and  to  Daun, 

205.  —  FUeasem  and  Bitburg,  206. 

b.  Railway  from  Andernaeh  to  Mayen  and  Gerolstein  207 
From  Kaisersesch  to  Cochem.   Wehrbflsch.   Warth,  208. 

c.  Walk   from  Daun   to  Kyllburg  y\^   Gillenfeld   and 

Manderscheid 209 

From  Daun  to  Manderscheid,  210.  —  Bettenfeld.  Meerf elder 
Maar,  211. 

27.  From  Coblenz  to  Wetzlar.   Ems  and  the  Valley  of  the  Lahn    212 

Excursions  from  Ems,  216.  —  From  Limburg  to  Au  and  to 
Altenkirchen.  Hachenbiirg,219.— Weilthal.  Braunfels, 22[^ 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Bonte  Page 

28.  Frankfort.    .    .    , 221 

From  Frankfort  to  Mayence,  289. 

29.  The  Taunus 240 

a.  Taunns  Railway  from  Frankfort  to  Oastel  (Mayenee) 

and  Wiesbaden 240 

b.  From  Frankfort  to  Homburg 241 

The  Saalbnrg,  344.  —  From  Hombarg  to  Usingen,  345. 

c.  From  Frankfort  to  Cronberg  or  Konigstein.   Feldberg  245 

d.  From  Frankfort  to  Soden 247 

From  Soden  to  Cronberg  and  to  Konigstein,  348. 

e.  From  Frankfort  to  Eppstein  and  Limbnrg 248 

TkeRossert.  Fischbach-Thal.  Neu-Weilnan.  Alt-Weilnau,349. 

30.  From  Frankfort  or  Mayenee  to  Mannheim  and  Heidelberg  260 

a.  Via  Lampertheim  to  Mannheim  (Carlsrahe)  ....     250 

b.  Via  Darmstadt  to  Heidelberg  and  Mannheim  ....     250 
From  Darmstadt  to  Worms  and  to  Mannheim,  354.  —  From 
Bickenhach  to  Jugenheim  and  Seeheim.   The  Melibocus,  365. 

—  Environs  of  Auerbach,  356.  —  From  Bensheim  to  Worms. 
Lorsch,  356.  —  Starkenburg,  357.  — -  From  Weinheim  to 
Heidelberg  and  to  Mannheim,  257,  258. 

31.  TheOdenwald 258 

a.  Western  Portion.  Felsberg.  Linden f els.  From  Wein- 
heim to  Furth 258 

From  Lindenfels  to  Heppenheim  and  to  Fdrth.  From 
Horlenbach  to  Waldmichelbach.    The  Tromm,  261. 

b.  Eastern  Portion.   Odenwald  Railway 262 

From  Beinheim  to  Reichelsheim,  262.  —  From  Hichelstadt 

'  to  Amorbach,  Miltenberg,  and  Aschaffenburg,  363,  364. 

32.  Heidelberg  and  the  Valley  of  the  Neckar 264 

From  Heidelberg  to  Schwetzingen  and  Speyer 275 

38.  Mannheim  and  Lndwigshafen 276 

From  Mannheim  to  Carlsrahe,  279. 
34.  From  Mayenee  to  Lndwigshafen  (Mannheim).   Worms    .     279 
85.  From  Bingen  or  Mayenee  Yi4  Alzey  to  Eaiserslautem, 

Worms,  or  Nenstadt 285 

The  Donnersberg,  286.  —  From  Griinstadt  to  Eisenberg. 

Abbey  of  Limbnrg.   Hartenbnrg,  387.  —  Heidenmaaer,  288. 
36.  From  Lndwigshafen  to  Weissenburg  and  Strassbnrg   .    .     288 

Environs  of  Nenstadt.    Haardt.   From  Nenstadt  to  the  Max- 

bnrg,289.  — Gleisweiler.  Elingenmtin8ter,290. — Bergzabern. 

Geisberg,  291.  —  Worth,  292. 

87.  From  Mannheim  (Lndwigshafen)  to  Neunkirchen   .    .    .     293 
From  Eaiserslautem  to  Standemheim.    From  Landstuhl  to 
Eusel,  394.  —  From  Homburg  to  Zweibriicken,  295. 

38.   From  Lndwigshafen  to  Speyer,  Lanterbnrg,  and  Strassbnrg    295 
From  Germersheim  to  Landau,  298. 

89.  From  Landan  to  Zweibriicken.  The  Vosges  of  the  Palatinate    299 
Pirmasens    From  Zweibr&cken  to  Saarbrucken  and  to  Saar- 
gemiind,  300. 

40.  Strassbnrg 302 

From  Strasfburg  to  Kehl  and  to  Colmar,  814.    ( 

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X  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

41.  From  StrasBbnrg  to  Saarbrucken  ^Afrt«; 314 

42.  From  Strassburg  to  Metz  vl4  Saaralben  or  via  Saarburg   .     316 

From  Obermodern  to  Zabem,  316.  —  From  Saarburg  to 
Saargemiind ;  to  Albertchweiler ;  to  Nancy,  818. 
The  N.  Vosges  Mts 318 

43.  From  Strassburg  to  Bile 320 

Sulanatt,  323.  —  From  BoUweiler  to  Ensisheim,  324.  —  From 
Miilhausen  to  Hiillheim  and  to  Belfort.  835.  —  From  St. 
Ludwig  to  Leopoldshohe,    Hiiningen,  326. 

44.  The  Central  and  Upper  Vosges  Mts 326 

I.  The  Central  Vosges  Mts 327 

a.  From  Zabem  to  Molshelm.  Wangenburg.  Schneeberg     327 

b.  From  Strassburg  to  Saales.   Brenschthal.   Donon    .     328 
From  Schirmeck  to  Hohwald,  329.   —  From  Rothau  to 
Hohwald,  380. 

c.  From  Molshelm  to  Schlettstadt.  Odilienburg.  Hohwald    332 
II.  The  Upper  or  High  Vosges  Mts 336 

a.  From  Schlettstadt  to  Markiroh.    Hoh-Kdnigsbnrg. 

Rappoltsweiler 336 

From  Harkirch  to  Rappoltsweiler.  The  Br^zonard,  837.  — 
From  Rappoltsweiler  to  Reichenweier  and  Kaysersberg,  840. 

b.  The  Weissthal.    The  Weisse  See  and  Schwarze  See. 
Reisberg 341 

c.  From  Colmar  to  Miinster  and  Metzeral.  The  Schlncht    344 

From  Tiirkheim  to  Drei  -ffihren,  344.  —  Ascent  of  the  Kahle 
Wasen  from  Miinster  and  Luttenbacb,  345, 346.  —  Hohneck. 
From  Metzeral  to  the  Grosse  Belchen.  Rothenbachkopf,  347. 

d.  From  BoUweiler  to  Lautenbach.    Grosse  Belchen    .     347 
Murbach  Abbey,  848. 

e.  From  Mulhausen  to  Wesserling 349 

From  St.  Amarin  to  Masmiinster,  850. 

f.  From  Sennheim  to  Sewen,  Welsche  Belchen   .    .    .     351 

45.  From  Heidelberg  to  Baden 352 

From  Bruchsal  to  Germersheim,  852.  —  From  Darlach 
to  Pforzheim  and  Wildbad,  353.  —  From  Carlsruhe  to 
Landau,  361. 

46.  Baden  and  Environs 362 

47.  From  Baden  to  Freiburg  and  Bale 374 

Sasbach.  Erlenbad.  Brigittenschloss.  From  Appenweier 
to  Kehl  and  Strassburg,  375.  —  From  Dinglingen  to  Lahr, 
876.  —  Excursions  from  Freiburg.  Giintersthal,  Schau- 
ins-Land,  etc.,  383,  384.  —  From  Freiburg  to  Colmar,  8S4. 

48.  The  Black  Forest  ('Dwcfty  0/^  Baden; 386 

a.  From  Carlsruhe  and  Ettlingen  or  from  Gemsbach  to 
Herrenalb 388 

b.  From  Buhl  through  the  Buhler-Thal  to  the  Sand(Plattig) 
and  Hundseck,  and  to  Allerheiligen  via  the  Homls- 

grinde  and  the  Ruhstein 389 

Gertelbach-Schlucht,  389.  —  Badener  Hohe.  Mehliskopf. 
Hohe  Ochscnkopf,  390.  r^ 

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CONTENTS.  xi 

Route  Page 

c.  The  Murgtbal  firom  Rastatt  to  Baiersbronn,  and  thence 
to  Frendenstadt.  From  SchonmClnzach  to  the  Horais- 

grinde 391 

From  Baden  to  Forbfwh  direct  and  to  Herrenwies,  898. 

d.  From  Aohern  via  OttenhSfen  to  the  Ruhstein  or  Aller- 

helligen 396 

From  Eappelrodeek  to  Allerheiligen.  From  OttenhSfen  to 
Allerbeiligen,  396.  —  The  Bothe  SchllfflEopf.  From  Aller- 
heiligen to  Oppenau,  896.  —  From  Allerheiligen  to  Rippoldsau 

over  the  Eniebis,  397. 

e.  From  Appenweier  to  Oppenau  and  the  Baths  in  the 

Renchthal 397 

From  Locherberg  to  Zell  vi&  Harmersbach  or  Nordraeh, 

398.  —  From  Petersthal  to  Schapbach  and  Antogast.  From 
Qrieabach  to  Rippoldsau.    Holswalder  Hohe,  3fiK9. 

f.  Schwarzwald  Railway  from  Offenburg  to  Constance    .     400 
Moosthurm,  400.  —  From  Biberach  to  Lahr.  Hohen-Gerolds- 

eck,  401.  —  Althornberg.  From  Homberg  to  Elzach  and 
Schramberg,  402.  —  From  Triberg  to  Homberg  via  the  Alt- 
hornberg and  to  Elzach  viH  Schonach,  403.  —  From  St. 
Georgen  to  Triberg,  404.  —  From  Donaneschingen  to  Furt- 
wangen,  405. 

g.  From  Hansach  to  Frendenstadt  vik  Schiltach.   Rip- 
poldsau   406 

From  the  K15sterle  to  Frendenstadt.  From  Schiltach  to 
Schramberg,  407. 

h.  From  Triberg  to  the  Simonswalder-Thal  (Waldkirch) 

vl&  Furtwangen 409 

The  Brend,  409.  —  From  Furtwangen  to  Waldau.  Zweri« 
bach  Fall,  410. 

1.  Waldkirch  and  the  Elzthal 411 

k.  Hollenthal  Railway  from  Freiburg  to  Donaneschingen. 

Feldberg 412 

From  Kirchzarten  to   St.  Hargen  and  to  Todtnau.    From 
Himmelreich  to  St.  Margen,  118.  —  Hochwart.   Saig.  Hoch- 
first.    Weisstannhohe.    Friedenweiler,  415. 
1.  From  Titisee  to  Schluchsee  and  St.  Blasien    ....     419 
From  Schluchsee  to  Thiengen,  490. 

m.  Badenweller  and  Environs.  Biirgeln.  Blanen  ....     420 
Kandern,  and  thence  to  Haltingen,  423. 

n.  From  Badenweller  to  the  Belchen,  and  through  the 

Mflnster-Thal  to  Staufen 424 

From  Schonau  and  from  Bad  Sulsbnrg  to  the  Belchen,  424. 

—  From  Staufen  to  Utzenfeld  in  the  Wiesen-Thal,  425. 

0.  The  Wiesen-Thal  and  the  ^Strategic  Line* 425 

From  Ldrraeh  to  Leopoldshohe,  427. 
p.  The  Wehra-Thal  and  Albthal 428 

From  St.  Blasien  to  Schluchsee  and  to  Todtmoos,  430. 
49.  From  Bale  to  Constance  via  Schaflfhausen  .    .    ...    .    .     431 

From  Waldshut  to  Immendingen.    The  Schlficht-Thal,  433. 

—  The  Falls  of  the  Rhine  434.  —  Bohentwiel,  485.  — 
The  Island  of  Reichenau,  435. 

Index  ....        r"v^/^rtlr^     ^^^ 

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xli  MAPS  AND  PLANS. 

Xapi. 

1.  Railway  Map  op  the  Lowbb  Rhinb,  from  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Coloe:ne 

to  Venlo  and  Dortmnnd :  BB.  1.  2,  M ;  p.  64. 

2.  The  BwiBONS  op  Olbvx:  B.  4;  p.  68. 

3.  The  Bonn  pbom  Goloonb  to  Bonxt:  BB.  9,  10,  11;  p.  68. 

4.  The  Bhinb  from  Bonn  to  Goblbnz:  BB.  9,  10,  11,  14,  15;  p.  70. 
6.  The  Sbvbn  Mountains  :  B.  13;  p.  93. 

6.  The  Valley  op  thb  Ahb:  E.  14;  p.  97. 

7.  The  Bnvibons  op  thb  Laachbb  Sbb:  B.  16;  p.  103. 

8.  The  Bhinb  pbom    Goblbnz    to   Binobn  :  BB.  16,  17,    19,  20,  23,  27; 

p.  113. 

9.  The  EN7IBON8  op  Boppabd:  B.  17;  p.  116. 

10.  The  Envibons  op  St.  Goab:  B.  17;  p.  119. 

11.  The  W.  Taunub  and  Bheinoau:  BB.  17, 19,  20;  p.  128. 

12.  The  Nibdbbwald:  B.  18;  p.  136. 

13.  The  Envibons  of  Ebbuznach:  B.  23;  p.  166. 

14.  The  Nahbthal:  B.  23;  p.  168. 

16.  The  Valley  op  the  Saab  from  Saarbriicken  to  Treves:  B.  23;  p.  172. 

16.  The  Enyibons  op  Hbtz:  B.  23;  p.  176. 

17.  The  Mosblle:  BB.  24,  25;  p.  190. 

18.  The  Envibons  op  Alf  and  Bbbtbich:  B.  25;  p.  196. 

19.  The  Volcanic  Eipbl:  B.  26;  p.  202. 

20.  The  Envibons  of  Daun  and  Mandbbschbid  :  B.  26 ;  p.  206. 

21.  The  Envibons  of  Ems  :  B.  27 ;  p.  213. 
2*2.  The  Valley  of  the  Lahn:  B.  27;  p.  216. 

23.  The  Tadnds:  B.  29;  p.  240. 

24.  The  Fbldbbbg  in  the  Taunus  and  the  Envibons  of  Hombubq:   B.  29; 

p.  246. 

25.  The  Bbbostbassb  and  Odbnwald  :  B.  31 ;  p.  256. 
2B.  The  E.  Odenwald  :  B.  31h ;  p.  262. 

27.  The  Envibons  of  Hbidblbbbo:  B.  32;  p.  264. 

28.  Map  of  Bhbnish  Hesse  :  BB.  34,  35 ;  p.  285. 

29.  The  Envibons  op  Neustadt:  B.  36:  p.  2"=^8. 

30.  The  Bhbnish  Palatinate  :  BB.  35,  36,  37,  39,  41 ;  p.  293. 

31.  The  NoBTHEBN  VosGES  Mts.  :  BB.  42,  44  I. ;  p.  318. 

32.  The  Cbntbal  Vosges  Mts.:  BB.  441.,  44  II.;  p.  824. 
83.  The  SoDTHBBN  VosoES  Mts.  :  B.  44  II. ;  p.  840. 

34.  The  Environs  op  Baden  :  B.  46 ;  p.  368. 

85.  The  Envibons  op  Fbbibdbg:  B.  47;  p.  378. 

36.  The  Black  Forest,  Sheet  I.  (Murgthal):  BB.  46,  47,  48a-d;  p.  386. 

87.  The  Envibons  of  Allbrhbiligbn  :  B.  48  d;  p.  3d6. 

38.  The  Black  Forest,  Sheet  II.    (Einzig-Thal):    BB.  47,  48d-g;  p.  898. 

39.  The  Environs  op  Tbibbbg:  B.  48  f;  p.  402 

40.  The  Black  Forest  ,  Sheet  III.  O^'reihurg,  Triberg,  Donaueschingen) : 

BB.  47,  48h-k;  p.  404. 

41.  The  Fbldbbbg  District:  B.  48k;  p.  416. 

42.  The  Black  Forest,  Sheet  IV.  (Southern  Valleys) :  RR.  481-p,  49 ;  p.  418. 

43.  The  Environs  op  Badenweiler:  B.  48  m;  p.  420. 

44.  ScHAFPHAUSEN  AND  Falls  OF  THB  Bhinb  :  B.  49;  p.  434. 

45.  Bailway  Map  of  the  Bhinb,  after  the  Index. 

Plans  of  Towns. 

Aik-la-Chapblle,  p.  4;  Baden,  p.  363;  Babmbn,  p.  64;  Bonn,  p.  84; 
Garlsruhb,  p.  354;  Clbvb.  p.  59;  Goblbnz,  with  Environs,  p.  106;  Col- 
MAB,  p.  322;  Cologne,  p.  26;  Cbbpbld,  p.  57;  Dabmstadt,  p.  251;  Ddis- 
burg-Buhrort,  p.  19;  DGsseldorf,  p.  20;  Elbbbfeld,  p.  64^  Frankfort, 
p.  222;  Castle  of  Heidelberg,  p.  268 ;  Mannheim,  p.  276;  Maybnoe,  p.  154; 
Metz,  p.  175;  M5LHACSBN,  p.  824:  Spbybb,  p.  295;  Strassburg,  p.  302; 
TrAves,  p.  183;  Wiesbaden,  p.  145;  Wobms,  p.  281, 


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INTRODUCTION. 


I.  Language. 

A  slight  aoqnalntance  with  (German  is  indispensable  for  those 
who  desire  to  explore  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  Rhenish 
Provinces.  Tourists  who  do  not  deviate  from  the  beaten  track  will 
generally  find  English  or  French  spoken  at  the  principal  hotels  and 
the  usual  resorts  of  strangers ;  but  if  they  are  entirely  ignorant  of 
the  language  they  must  be  prepared  occasionally  to  submit  to  the 
extortions  practised  by  porters,  cab-drivers,  and  others  of  a  like 
cUm,  whieh  even  the  data  furnished  by  the  Handbook  will  not 
always  enable  them  to  avoid. 

n.  Money.   Travelling  Expenses. 

MoNBT.  The  German  mark  (ulf),  which  is  nearly  equivalent  to 
the  English  shilling,  is  divided  into  100  pfennigs.  Banknotes  of  5, 
20,  and  50  M  are  issued  by  the  Oerman  Imperial  Bank  (^Deutsche 
Seieh$bank'),  and  others  of  100,  500,  and  1000  Jl  by  the  Imperial 
Bank  and  by  twelve  other  banks  which  possess  the  privilege.  The 
current  gold  eoint  are  pieces  of  10  and  of  20  marks,  the  intrinsic 
value  of  which  is  somewhat  lower  than  that  of  the  English  half- 
sovereign  and  sovereign  (il,  being  worth  about  20  UK  43  pf .).  The 
paper  currency  is  of  the  same  value  as  the  precious  metals.  The 
silver  coins  are  pieces  of  5,  3  (the  old  dollar),  2, 1,  and  Y2  m&^l^ 
(50  pf.).  In  nickel  there  are  coins  of  10  and  5  pfennigs,  and  in 
copper  there  are  pieces  of  2  and  1  pfennig. 

English  sovereigns  and  banknotes  may  be  exchanged  at  all  the 
principal  towns  in  Germany,  and  napoleons  are  also  favourably 
received  (20  fr.  s=  16«.  s  16.#,  and  often  a  little  more).  Those 
who  travel  with  large  sums  should  carry  them  in  the  form  of  letters 
of  credit  or  in  circular  notes  of  5^  or  10^.,  rather  than  in  banknotes 
or  gold,  as  the  value  of  the  former,  if  lost  or  stolen,  is  recoverable. 

TiLAVBiiLiNO  EZPBN8B8.  The  oxponse  of  a  tour  in  the  Rhenish 
Provinces  depends  of  course  on  a  great  variety  of  circumstances.  Of 
late  years  many  complaints  have  Justly  been  made  of  the  exorbitant 
charges  at  some  of  the  Rhenish  hotels ;  but  it  may  be  stated  generally 
that  travelling  in  Germany,  and  even  on  the  Rhine,  is  less  ex- 
pensive, and  in  some  respects  more  comfortable,  than  in  most 
other  countries  in  Europe.  The  pedestrian  of  moderate  require- 
ments, who  has  attained  tolerable  proficiency  in  the  language  and 
avoids  the  beaten  track  as  much  as  possible,  will  have  no  difficulty 
in  limiting  his  expenditure  to  8-10  Jf  per  day ;  but  those  who  prefer 
driving  to  walking,  frequent  the  most  expensive  hotels,  and  require 

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xiY  PASSPORTS. 

the  services  of  guides  and  commissionnalres,  must  be  prepared  to 
expend  at  least  25-30  uff  daily. 

ni.  Passports.    Custom  Hoase. 

Passfobts  are,  as  a  mle,  unnecessary  for  trayellers  in  Germany, 
but  they  are  occasionally  req^uired  to  prove  the  identity  of  the  trav- 
eller, to  procure  admission  to  collections,  and  to  obtain  delivery  of 
registered  letters.  Cyclists  (comp.  p.  xviti)  should  aliways  carry  a 
passport.  Among  the  principal  passport  -  agents  in  London  are : 
Buss,  4  Adelaide  Street,  Strand  (charge  4«.,  including  agent's  fee); 
0.  Smith  and  Son,  23  Craven  Street,  Charing  Cross  ^elusive  fee48.J; 
Thomas  Cook  &  Son,  Ludgate  Circus  (fee  Ss.  ocf.);  and  Henry 
Blacklock  &  Co.  (^Bradshaw's  Guides';  fee  bs.}.  Aii  «xtra  charge  i« 
made  for  each  visa,  should  such  be  necessary. 

Custom  House  formalities  are  now  almost  everywhere  lenient. 
As  a  rule,  however,  articles  purchased  during  the  journey,  which 
are  not  destined  fox  pdxsonal  use,  should  be  declared  at  the  frontier. 

IT.  Boates  from  London  to  the  Bhine. 

Cologne^  as  the  focus  of  the  Rhenish  districts,  i^  taken  as  the 
goal  of  the  under-noted  routes ;  but  it  will  be  easy  to  make  the  re- 
quisite allowances  if  some  other  point  be  the  tourist's  destination. 
—  Luggage  may  be  registered  through  to  destination  (booking- fee 
4-6d.  per  package),  but  is  examined  at  the  frontier  (see  below). 
Bicycles  are  registered  as  ordinary  luggage  for  an  extra  fee  of  5«.  — 
Second-class  passengers  may  travel  in  the  saloon  of  the  steamers  for 
a  small  extra  fee  (from  2^.  upwards).  —  Uniformed  Interpreters 
attend  the  Continental  trains  at  the  chief  points  of  departure  and 
arrival.  —  German  (Central  Europe)  time  is  1  hr.  ahead  of  Green- 
wich time.  —  For  fuller  details  as  to  hours  of  trains,  sleeping  car- 
riages, station-omnibuses,  etc.,  see  the  time-tables  of  the  South 
Eastern^  C^ot^om ^nd  the  Oreat  Eastern  Raiiways,  Cook^s  Continent 
tal  Time-'TahleSy  or  Brad^taw's  Continental  Railway  Ouide. 

a.  Vii  Ostend  and  (^heht. 

IHiration  of  direct  Journey  12-14  hrs.  Through-fares,  ist  class  21.  14<. 
6d.,  2nd  class  il.  19<.  6d. ;  return-fares  H.  i2i.  tid.,  3^  1t.  2d.  Extra-fare 
on  ^train  de  luxe'  (10  a.m.)  10s.  6d.  Charge  for  excess-luggage,  ds.  3d.  per 
20  lbs.    Return-tickets  valid  for  45  days. 

South  Eastbbn  A  Ouatham  EailwaT  from  Charing  Cross  or  Victoria 
to  (78  U.)  Dover  Pier  in  2-21/2  hrs.  —  Stsames  from  Dover  to  (49  H.)  Ostend 
in  3-4  hrs.  —  Eailwat  to  (216  M.)  Cologne  via  Brussels  or  vi&  Malines 
in  7-71/2  hrs. 

Luggage  is  examined  at  BerbestJMl  (p.  S).  Passengers  by  the  morning 
service  may,  on  notice  given  to  the  conductor  of  tilie  train  at  Ostend^ 
Bruges,  or  Ghent,  obtain  dinner-baskets  at  Malines  (41/2  fr.,  wine  included). 

b.  Vtik  TlntUng. 

Duration  of  journey  141/2-15  hrs.  Through-fares  2Z.  7^  8d. ,  il.  12<.; 
return  (available  for  45  days)  dl.  iOs.  9d.,  21.  7s.  3d. ;  extra-fare  on  corridor^ 
train  (*D'  train)  2^. ;  excess-luggage  is.  Id.  per  20  lbs. 

edbyCOOgle 


RAILWAYS.  XV 

Baxlwat  from  Victoria,  Holbom,  or  St.  Pauf$  to  (50  M.)  Qutmboro  Pimr 
in  11/4-1  Vz  hr.  —  Stbamkr  from  Que enboro  to  (120  M.)  FUUMng  in  7Vr8  \a%. 
"  Bailwat  from  Flashing  to  (20S  M.)  Cologne  via  Ytnlo  in  7-8  hrs. 

I<agg*e«  examined  at  (?ocA  (p.  58).  Table  dlidte  on  the  day-steamer  i». 
Kestaorant-cars  attached  to  the  chief  traiiu  firom  Flushinf . 

0.  Vi&  Hoek  Tan  Holland. 

Duration  of  journey  15 hrs.  Fares  2<.  5f.,  II.  9<.  lid.;  return  (45  days) 
32.  7«.  6d.,  22.  4<.  9d. ;  extra-fare  on  *D^  or  corridor  train  2«. ;  excess-luggage 
U,  6<f.  per  2Olb0. 

Gbeat  Eastbbn  Rail  WAT  from  Liverpool  Street  to  (70i/t  H.)  Harwich  in 
IV2  hr.  >-  Steambb  from  Harwich  to  (i08  M.)  Hoek  van  HoUand  in  7  hr«. 
—  Railway  from  Hoek  van  Holland  to  (186  M.)  Cologne^  Tii  Rotterdam^ 
Jfymwegen^  and  Venlo,  in  6V«  hrs. 

Luggage  examined  at  CUv^  (p.  58).  Restaurant- car  attached  to  the 
boat-train  from  Hoek  van  Holland. 

d.  Yii  Oalaia. 

Duration  of  journey  I8V2-I8  hrs.  Fares  82.  4«.  9<l.,  22.  6«.  4J.;  return 
(45  days)  52.  lOi.  2<l..  4/.  0«.  4d.;  extra-fare  on  'train  de  luxe'  (9  a.m.)  13<. 
Id. ;  excess-luggage  o*.  3<2.  per  20  lbs. 

Railway  from  Charing  Crou^  Victoria^  or  Cannon  Street  to  (78  H.)  Dover 
Pier  in  2-2V3  hrs.  —  Stxahxr  from  Dover  to  C^  H.)  Calais  in  IV4-IV2  hr.  — 
Bailwat  from  Calais  to  Brussels  and  (229  M.)  Cologne  in  10-14  hrs. 

Luggage  examined  at  Herbesthal  (p.  5).  Best  urant  or  dining  cars  attached 
to  the  chief  trains. 

Y.  Railways. 

Railwats.  Railway-travelling  is  cheaper  in  Germany  than  in 
other  parts  of  Eaxope,  Belgium  excepted,  and  the  carriages  are 
generally  clean  and  comfortable.  Those  of  the  second  class,  with 
spring-seats,  are  sometimes  nearly  as  good  as  the  first  in  England. 
The  first-class  carriages,  lined  with  velvet,  and  comparatively  little 
used,  are  recommended  to  the  lover  of  fresh  air,  as  he  will  be  more 
likely  to  secure  a  seat  next  the  window.  The  third-class  travelling 
community  are  generally  quiet  and  respectable,  and  the  carriages  tol- 
erably clean.  On  a  few  railways  there  is  even  a  fourth  class,  without 
seats.  Smoking  is  permitted  in  all  the  carriages,  except  those  'Fur 
Nioht-Raucher'  and  the  coupes  for  ladies.  The  average  fares  for  the 
different  classes  are  about  1^/4 c^.,  IVi^M  ^^^  Vb^'  P^'  Engl.  M. 
respectively.  The  extra-charge  for  a  seat  In  the  D  Corridor  Trains 
Is  1  Uf  for  any  distance  below  160  KU.  (ca.  93  M.)  and  2  J(  for  any 
greater  distance.  The  speed  seldom  exceeds  25  M.  per  hour.  On 
some  of  the  lines  20-50  lbs.  of  luggage  are  free,  in  addition  to 
smaller  articles  carried  in  the  hand,  over- weight  being  charged  for 
at  moderate  rates ;  but  on  many  of  the  lines  all  luggage  in  the  van 
must  be  paid  for.  In  all  cases  the  heavier  luggage  must  be  booked, 
and  a  ticket  procured  for  it ;  this  being  done,  the  traveller  need  not 
enquire  after  his  'impedimenta'  until  he  arrives  and  presents  his 
ticket  at  his  final  destination  (where  they  will  be  kept  in  safe 
custody,  several  days  usually  gratis).  Where,  however,  a  frontier 
has  to  be  crossed,  the  traveller  should  see  his  luggage  cleared  at  the 
custom-house  in  person.  —  Circular  TiekeU  for  prolonged  touis  are 

jOOgle 


x^l  STEAMBOATS. 

Issued  at  oonsiderably  reduced  rates  (see  the  ttme-tables),  t)ut  are 
only  partly  ayailable  for  the  Rhine  steamers  (see  below).  Ordinary 
return-tickets  are  ayailable  for  one  to  three  days.  —  At  the  larger 
stations  all  information  may  be  obtained  from  the  uniformed  PorUer, 

VI.  steamboats  on  the  Khine. 

Trayellers  for  pleasure  should  undoubtedly  select  the  Rhine 
steamers  between  Mayence  and  Cologne  in  preference  to  the  rail- 
way, in  spite  of  the  fact  that  their  punctuality  (especially  in  going 
upstream)  cannot  be  so  implicitly  depended  on.  The  first  steamer 
came  from  London  to  Ooblenz  in  1817.  Regular  service  aboye 
Cologne  was  instituted  in  1827.  The  passenger-service  is  carried 
on  mainly  by  the  united  Cologne  and  DuMeldorf  Companies^  the 
steamers  of  the  former  having  black,  of  the  latter  black-and-white 
funnels.  The  admirable  saloon-steamers  of  these  companies  ac- 
complish the  journey  from  Mayence  to  Cologne  in  7^/4  hrs.,  and 
that  from  Cologne  to  Mayence  in  12^4  hrs.,  touching,  in  descend- 
ing, at  Biebrlch,  Coblenz,  and  Bonn  only;  in  ascending,  at  Bingen 
also.  The  Netherlands  Steam-Ship  Co,  (funnels  black  below  and 
white  above),  which  formerly  carried  on  a  freight-service  almost 
exclusively,  now  also  runs  two  saloon-steamers  for  passengers  (piers 
different  from  those  of  the  other  companies).  These  have  the  ad- 
vantage for  travellers  to  or  from  Rotterdam  that  no  change  of  boat 
is  needed.  The  ordinary  steamers  stop  at  numerous  small  places 
where  passengers  are  landed  in  boats.  The  charge  for  landing  or 
embarking,  including  100  lbs.  of  luggage,  is  10  pf. 

The  fares  are  very  moderate,  those  for  voyages  upstream  being 
one-sixth  less  than  for  those  in  the  reverse  dibrection.  The  express 
fares  are  somewhat  higher  than  the  ordinary.  The  express-steamers 
carry  saloon-passengers  only.  Each  passenger  is  allowed  lOOlbs.  of 
luggage  free.  Additional  advantages  are  offered  by  the  issue  of  re- 
turn-tickets, one  class  of  which  is  valid  for  a  week,  another  within 
the  current  year.  Railway  Circular  Tickets  (see  above),  the  so- 
called  'Elective  Railway  Tickets*  (WaUfreit  EUenbahnkarten),  and 
the  tickets  issued  by  the  usual  tourists'  agents  are  available  for  the 
steamers  between  Cologne  and  Mayence,  subject  to  conditions 
printed  on  the  tickets.  It  is  important  to  note  that  in  these  cases 
the  train  may  be  exchanged  for  the  steamer,  or  vice  verad^  only  at 
the  terminal  station  in  the  coupon.  Third-class  passengers  may 
travel  in  the  saloon  on  paying  the  difference  to  the  purser  ('Oon- 
dukteur')  on  board. 

Passengers  embarking  at  stations  with  piers  must  take  tickets  at  the 
ofAce  on  shore,  and  those  embarking  at  other  stations  should  obtain  them 
from  the  parser  immediately  on  going  on  board,  as  otherwise  they  may 
be  compelled  to  pay  the  flare  from  the  steamer^s  first  point  of  departure. 
The  holder  of  a  ticket  worth  2  Jt  and  upwards  is  at  liberty  to  break 
his  journey,  provided  he  signify  his  intention  to  the  purser  before  the 
tickets  are  collected.    If  the  journey  be  resumed  at  a  station  nearer  the 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


STEAMBOATS. 


x^li 


Passenger's  destination  than  that  at  which  he  disembarked,  the  ticket 
ceases  to  he  valid  for  the  intervening  stations.  Tickets  mnst  also  he 
stamped  ,at  the  office  or  by  the  conductor  at  the  station  where  the  journey 
is  returned;  and  the  same  regulation  applies  to  return-tickets  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  return-journey. 

In  autumn  the  steamers  are  often  unpunctual  in  consequence  of  the 
fogs  which  then  prevail.  At  this  season  it  is  sometimes  prudent  to  delay 
taking  tickets  until  the  steamer  is  actually  in  sight. 

Refreshments  are  provided  on  board  the  steamers,  in  the  style  of  the 
larger  hotels.  Table  d'hdte  on  the  German  steamers  at  1  o'clock  3  •#, 
children  half-price;  ices  60  pf.  extra.  The  vrines  are  made  a  special 
feature  in  the  commissariat. 

Travellers  starting  at  an  early  hour  will  find  breakfast  on  board 
pleasanter  than  a  hurried  meal  before  leaving  their  hotel.  The  waiters 
occasionally  offer  worthless  books ,  maps,  and  panoramas  for  sale  at  ex- 
orbitant prices. 


Fall  of  the  Bhine. 
Height  above  the  level  of  the  sea  of  — 
Feet. 


The  Toma-See,  source  of  the 

Vorder-Bhein 7t»v 

The  Bheinwald  Glacier,  cra- 
dle of  the  Hinter-Bhein     .  7268 

Tlie  Lake  of  Constance     .    .  1306 

The  Bhine  at  B&le  ....  803 


Feet. 

The  Bhine  at  Mannheim    . 

.    280 

„         „        „  Mayence  .     . 

.    266 

„         „       „  Coblenz    .    . 

.    190 

„         „       „  Cologne   .    . 

.    142 

r,             n          n    DuSSCldorf    . 

.      78 

.         „       „  Emmerich    . 

.      38 

At  B&le.  .  . 
0  Mannheim. 
„  Mayence  . 
.  Coblenz 


Breadth  of  the  Bhine. 
Yards. 


429 
492 


Yards. 

At  Bonn 632 

„  Cologne 433 

„  Diisseldorf 409 

„  Schenkenschanz  (Dutch front.)  909 


Length  of  the  Bhine. 

From  B&le  to  Kehl 

„     Kehl  to  Mannheim 

„     Mannheim  to  Mayence  .     .     . ' 

y,     Mayence  to  Bin  gen 


Engl.  Miles. 
.     .      80 
.    .      82 
.    .      46V8 
18Vt 


Bingen  to  Coblenz 38Va 

Coblenz  to  Cologne 69V2 

Cologne  to  Dusseldori 841/r 

Diisseldorf  to  Emmerich 66Vt 

Emmerich  to  Briel  (German  Ocean) 101 

B&le  to  the  German  Ocean 626 


Average  Depth  of  the  Bhine.  Feet. 

Between  B&le  and  Strassburg 8-12 

„        Strassburg  and  Mayence 6-26 

„        Mayence  and  Bonn 9-76 

At  the  Lurlei 76 

Between  Bonn  and  Cologne 10-30 

„        Cologne  and  Diisseldorf 12-66 


Babdbkkr's  Bhine.    15th  Edit. 


rebby  Google 


Vn.  Walking  Excursions. 

The  pedestrian  is  anqnestionably  tiie  most  independent  of 
travellers,  and  to  Mm  alone  the  beautiful  scenery  of  some  of  the 
more  remote  districts  is  accessible.  For  a  short  tour  a  couple  of 
flannel  shirts,  a  pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers,  the  articles 
of  the  toUet,  a  light  waterproof,  and  a  stout  umbrella  will  generally 
be  found  a  sufficient  equipment.  Strong  and  well-tried  boots  are 
essential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be 
avoided;  a  light  pouch  or  game-bag  is  far  less  irksome,  and  its 
position  may  be  shifted  at  pleasure.  A  more  extensive  reserve  of 
clothing  should  not  exceed  the  limits  of  a  small  portmanteau,  which 
can  be  easily  wielded,  and  may  be  forwarded  from  town  to  town 
by  post. 

The  banks  of  the  Rhine  abound  in  charming  scenery ,  which  it 
will  amply  reward  the  pedestrian  to  explore ;  many  districts  replete 
with  both  historical  and  natural  interest  are  described  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages.  The  following  are  especially  recommended  to  the 
notice  of  travellers :  The  Seven  Mts.  (R.  13),  the  Eifel  (R.  26), 
the  banks  of  the  Moselle  (R.  25),  the  Taunus  (R.  29),  the  Oden- 
wald  (R.  31),  the  Black  Forest  (R.  48),  the  Vosges  (RR.  42,  44), 
and  the  environs  of  Schaffhausen  and  Falls  of  the  Rhine  (R.  49).  By 
consulting  the  Handbook  the  traveller  will  discover  many  attractive 
spots,  both  in  these  and  other  districts. 

Vm.   Cycling  Notes. 

Cycling  is  very  prevalent  in  the  Rhenish  districts,  and  there  are 
suitable  roads  all  the  way  from  Holland  to  Bale  and  the  Lake  of 
Constance.  Among  the  most  popular  bits  for  wheeling  are  the  left 
bank  of  the  Rhine  from  Bonn  to  Bingen,  the  Rheingau,  the  valley 
of  the  Moselle,  the  road  from  Frankfort  to  Heidelberg,  the  Neckar 
valley  and  the  W.  slopes  of  the  Black  Forest,  and  the  roads  skirting 
the  Haardt  Mts.  and  the  Yosges.  Excursions  in  the  Black  Forest, 
the  Yosges,  or  other  mountainous  districts  make  considerable  de- 
mands on  the  strength  and  staying  power  of  the  rider,  but  some 
delightful  rides  downhill  may  be  begun  at  the  highest-lying  railway- 
stations.  Dangerous  places  are  generally  marked  on  the  cycling 
maps  mentioned  at  p.  xix,  but  the  cyclist  should  always  be  careful 
on  roads  unknown  to  him.  Strong  brakes  and  a  good  lamp  for  night- 
riding  are  indispensable. 

Some  of  the  narrower  and  steeper  streets  in  towns  and  villages 
are  apt  to  be  closed  to  the  cyclist,  and  restrictions  are  also  often  made 
on  the  use  of  the  wheel  in  public  parks.  In  most  cases  a  number- 
plate  has  to  be  attached  to  the  bicyle,  and  the  police  have  the  right 
to  demand  the  exhibition  of  the  cyclist's  club-ticket  or  passport.  All 
regulations  of  this  kind  are  stringently  enforced  by  ihe  authorities. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


HOTELS.  xix 

The  rale  of  tlie  road  is  to  keep  to  tlie  light  in  meeting,  and  to  pass 
on  the  left  in  overtaking.  Led  horses  must  be  met  and  passed  on 
the  side  on  which  the  man  in  charge  is. 

On  the  Prassian  and  Hessian  State  Railways  uncrated  bicycles  are 
carried  as  personal  luggage  when  accompanied  by  the  rider.  The  latter 
has,  however,  to  take  a  bicycle-ticket  ('Fahrradkarte'  -y  price  50  pf.)  and  has 
himself  to  take  his  wheel  to  and  from  the  baggage-car.  If  carriages  are 
changed  en  route,  he  is  also  responsible  for  transferring  his  wheel  from 
one  train  to  the  other.  Many  express-trains  (esp.  the  so-called  D-trains, 
p.  xv)  do  not  carry  unpacked  bicycles.  —  In  Baden  and  the  Bavarian 
Palatinate  the  bicycle  is  given  in  charge  of  the  baggage-master  like  ord- 
inary luggage.  In  Alsace  and  German  Lorraine  special  compartments  are 
provided  for  cyclists,  with  apparatus  for  suspending  their  machines. 

The  German  steamers  on  the  Rhine  do  not  carry  bicycles  unless  special 
tickets  have  been  taken  at  the  agencies  beforehand.  Passengers  have  them- 
selves to  deposit  their  wheels  in  the  steerage,  where  they  are  generally 
left  without  anyone  to  look  after  them.  The  Dutch  steamboat  company 
makes  no  charge  for  bicycles,  and  moreover  provides  stands  for  them  on 
the  main  deck. 

The  best  Cyeling  Maps  of  the  Bhenish  districts  are  those  issued  by 
L.  Ravenstein  of  Frankfort  for  Wiesbaden  and  neighbourhood  (4  J().  the 
Environs  of  Frankfort  (3  Jf),  Starkenburg  (Valley  of  the  Rhine,  Odenwald, 
A  Spessart;  4  JT),  Upper  Hesse  (4  Jf),  and  the  Bavarian  Palatinate  & 
Rhenish  Hesse  (4  Jf).  —  A  series  of  cheaper  maps  (IV2  Uf  each)  for  Central 
Europe  is  issued  by  Liebenoto  and  Ravenstein  of  Leipsic.  Those  available 
for  visitors  to  the  Rhine  are  Nos.  84  (Cologne),  86  (Wetzlar),  98  (Prixm), 
99  (Frankfort),  112  (Treves),  113  (Mannheim),  127  (Strajssburg),  140  (Colmar), 
and  141  (Freiburg).  —  The  German  volume  of  the  Continental  Road  Book 
of  the  Cyclists'  Touring  Club  (price  6s.)  will  be  found  useful. 

No  duty  is  levied  at  the  frontier  on  bicycles  accompanied  by  their 
riders,  but  a  charge  of  8-10  Jf  is  made  on  crated  machines,  if  they 
look  new. 

IX.  Hotels. 

The  first-class  hotels  in  the  principal  towns  and  watering-places 
throughout  (Germany  are  generally  good  and  somewhat  expensive ; 
but  it  frequently  happens  that  in  old-fashioned  hotels  of  unassum- 
ing exterior,  particularly  in  places  off  the  beaten  track ,  the  travel- 
ler finds  more  real  comfort  and  much  lower  charges. 

The  average  charges  in  the  first-class  hotels  are  as  follows :  room 
(including  light  and  attendance)  3-5  jjf,  plain  breakfast  1-1 V2  *^i 
dinner  3-5  uff,  pension  (i.e.  board  and  lodging)  6-10  Jf.  In  some 
of  the  most  luxurious^  houses,  and  for  extra  accommodation,  the 
charges  are  considerably  higher.  When  not  otherwise  indicated, 
R.  (room)  in  the  Handbook  is  used  to  include  light  (L.)  and  atten- 
dance (A.). 

When  the  traveller  remains  for  a  week  or  more  at  a  hotel,  it  Is 
advisable  to  pay ,  or  at  least  call  for  his  account  every  two  or  three 
days,  in  order  that  erroneous  insertions  may  be  detected.  Verbal 
reckonings  are  objectionable ,  except  in  some  of  the  more  remote 
and  primitive  districts  where  bills  are  never  written.  A  waiter's 
mental  arithmetic  is  faulty ,  and  the  faults  are  seldom  in  favour 
of  the  traveller.  A  favourite  practice  is  to  present  the  bill  at  the 
last  moment,    when  mistakes   or  wilful  imposition   cannot  easily 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


XX  CLIMATE. 

be  detected  or  rectified.  Those  who  purpose  starting  early  in  the 
morning  will  do  well  to  ask  for  their  bills  on  the  preyions  evening. 
English  travellers  often  impose  considerable  trouble  by  ordering 
things  almost  unknown  in  German  usage ;  and  if  ignorance  of  the 
language  be  added  to  want  of  conformity  to  the  customs,  mis- 
understandings and  disputes  are  apt  to  ensue.  The  reader  is  there- 
fore recommended  to  acquire  if  possible  such  a  moderate  proficiency 
in  the  language  as  to  render  him  intelligible  to  the  servants,  and  to 
endeavour  to  adapt  his  requirements  to  the  habits  of  the  country. 
For  this  purpose  Baedeker's  Manual  of  Conversation  (3  JK)  and 
Baedeker's  Chnversation  Dictionary  (in  four  languages ;  3  Jf')  will 
be  found  useful. 

X.  Climate.    Grape  Core. 

The  climate  of  W.  Germany  is  influenced  by  the  comparative 
proximity  of  the  North  Sea,  which  renders  the  temperature  remark- 
ably mild.  While  the  annual  mean  temperature  in  E.  Germany  is 
only  about  42-48°  Fahr.,  in  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  it  rises  to  over 
51**  (Cologne  60.2°,  Coblenz  50.9°,  Heidelberg  51.4°).  Thus,  owing 
to  the  early  springs  and  the  long  warm  autumns,  a  tour  in  the 
Rhenish  provinces  is  still  enjoyable  at  a  season  when  the  Alps  and 
the  mountainous  districts  of  Central  Germany  are  beginning  to  feel 
the  frosts  of  the  coming  winter.  This  geniality  of  climate  is  also 
very  favourable  to  the  ripening  of  the  grapes ;  and  hence  it  is  that 
the  ^Orape  Cure\  a  very  popular  continental  institution,  long 
established  in  Southern  Tyrol  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Lake  of 
Geneva,  has  been  introduced  into  the  Rhenish  Provinces  also. 

Grapes  when  eaten  in  moderate  quantity  (1-2  lbs.  daily)  have 
a  soothing  effect  on  the  mucous  membrane,  and  in  conjunction 
vfith  a  generous  diet  contribute  materially  to  restore  the  strength 
of  convalescents.  When  eaten  in  greater  quantities  (3-8 lbs.  daily), 
the  vegetable  acid  and  salts  produce  an  effect  similar  to  that  of 
mineral  waters  containing  Glauber's  or  common  salt.  The  grapes 
of  the  Rhenish  Palatinate  ('Gutedel'  or  'Junker',  and  'Oester- 
reicher'  or  'Sylvaner')  are  large,  thin-skinned,  and  well-flavoured, 
and  hence  this  district  is  the  centre  of  the  'Cure'.  Oleisweiler 
(p.  290)  is  especially  frequented  on  account  of  its  favourable 
situation  and  the  proximity  of  the  vineyards,  in  which  visitors 
may  gather  the  grapes  for  themselves.  The  grapes  of  Vurkheim 
(p.  287),  Edenkoben  (p.  290),  and  Neustadt  (p.  288)  are  also  in  great 
request.  Good  dessert-grapes  may,  however,  be  procured  almost 
everywhere  on  the  Rhine,  and  the  grape-cure  may  be  undergone 
at  Konigswinter,  Honnef,  Boppard^  St,  Ooarshausen^  Assmanns'^ 
hausenj  Wiesbaden ,  Badenweiler^  and  numerous  other  summer- 
resorts. 


y  Google 


xxl 


XI.  Wines  of  the  Ehine  and  Moselle. 


While  the  palm  must  be  yielded  to  France  for  her  red  wines, 
no  country  in  the  world  can  compete  with  the  Rhenish  Provinces  in 
the  vast  variety  and  excellence  of  the  white  wines  which  they 
produce.  On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  from  Mayence  to  Bonn,  a  dis- 
tance of  90  M. ,  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  may  be  seen  in  the 
greatest  possible  perfection. 

No  error  has  been  more  prevalent  than  that  the  Rhenish  and 
Moselle  wines  possess  an  injurious  acidity.  Liebig  on  the  contrary 
affirms,  not  only  that  the  exquisite  bouquet  of  the  Rhine  wines 
is  owing  to  the  free  acid  which  they  contain,  but  that  some  of 
their  most  salutary  properties  arise  from  the  tartar  present  in  them. 
To  this  he  attributes  the  immunity  enjoyed  by  those  who  use  the 
German  wines  from  the  uric  acid  diathesis.  Many  others  who  have 
investigated  the  subject  entertain  the  same  opinion.  Another  ad- 
vantage possessed  by  Rhenish  wines  is  the  total  absence  of  brandy, 
an  ingredient  with  which  the  wines  of  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Sicily 
are  almost  invariably  fortified,  to  the  utter  destruction  of  their 
flavour,  and  the  injury  of  the  health  of  the  consumer.  The  diseases 
which  attack  spirit-drinkers,  chiefly  disorders  of  the  liver,  are  com- 
monly met  with  amongst  consumers  of  fortified  wines,  though  such 
maladies  rarely  follow  even  the  intemperate  use  of  pure  wine.  That 
the  addition  of  alcohol  to  wine  is  unnecessary  for  its  preservation  is 
proved  by  the  fact  that  Rhine  wines  often  retain  their  excellence 
for  half-a-century,  although  they  seldom  contain  more  than  eight 
or  nine  per  cent  of  alcohol.  The  very  property  of  keeping  is  indeed 
mainly  attributable  to  the  fact  that  the  fermentation  is  more  per- 
fect in  Rhenish  wines  than  in  those  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  where 
fermentation  is  checked  by  the  addition  of  brandy.  With  the  white 
wines  of  France  the  same  object  is  effected  by  sulphuration.  By 
these  processes  the  richness  and  sweetness  of  new  wine  are  artific- 
ially and  un wholesomely  retained. 

The  traveller  who  finds  the  table-wine  of  the  hotels  unpala- 
table, and  whose  eye  wanders  in  bewilderment  over  the  *Wein- 
karte',  is  recommended  to  select  a  bottle  of  still  Hock  or  Moselle 
at  3-4  M  per  bottle,  at  which  price  the  taste  ought  t(T  be  grati- 
fied. The  hotel-prices  of  the  high-class  still  wines ,  as  well  as  of 
the  sparkling  wines,  are  often  exorbitant. 

The  Bheingan,  a  district  about  15  M.  in  length,  produces  the 
finest  wines  of  the  Rhine.  Here  is  situated  Schlosa  Johannisberg, 
a  most  favoured  spot,  yielding  a  wine  almost  without  rival.  As  the 
celebrated  vineyards  do  not  exceed  55  acres  in  area,  little  of  this 
rare  product  falls  to  the  share  of  the  ordinary  public.  Moreover  the 
first  quality  is  only  obtained  in  the  finest  seasons;  the  grapes 
are  selected  with  the  utmost  care  from  the  ripest  bunches,  not 
a  drop  of  the  precious  juice  being  allowed  to  escape ;  the  yield. 

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xxii  WINE. 

under  the  most  favourable  circumstances,  is  therefore  very  limited. 
The  various  qualities  of  this  wine  are  sold  in  the  cask  at  Sohloss 
Johannisberg  by  public  auction.  It  is  remarkable  for  ra^lness,  de- 
licacy of  flavour,  and  bouquet,  rather  than  for  strength.  The  other 
wines  of  the  vicinity,  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Johannisberg - 
Klaus,  and  those  yielded  by  the  vineyards  of  Count  Schonborn,  are 
also  highly  esteemed.  There  is  also  ' Johannisberger'  produced  from 
the  vineyards  of  the  village  of  that  name,  but  this  is  inferior  to 
many  of  the  other  products  of  the  Rheingau.  In  this  neighbour- 
hood &Te  Riidesheim  and  Geisenheim,  both  producing  first-class  wines. 
Bingen  is  a  favourable  district  for  strong  wines ;  the  hill  behind  it 
yields  Scharlachherger  (see  below).  Below  Bingen,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  is  Assmannshausen,  the  red  wine  of  which  holds  a  high  rank 
and  in  good  vintages  vies  with  Burgundy  of  the  best  class,  being  made 
from  the  same  species  of  grape ;  but  unfortunately,  like  the  latter,  it 
is  often  impaired  by  travelling.  The  Marcobrunn  vineyard,  between 
Hattenheim  and  Erbach,  produces  a  white  wine  of  exquisite  flavour 
and  bouquet.  The  wines,  however,  which  compete  most  successfully 
with  Johannisberger  and  trench  closely  upon  its  celebrity,  are  the 
Steinbergetj  produced  from  the  carefully-cultivated  vineyards  on  the 
hill  at  the  back  of  Hattenheim,  and  the  Bauenthaler  Berg  (p.  142), 
the  best  vintages  of  which  are  unsurpassed  in  flavour  and  quality. 
Hochheim,  situated  on  the  Main,  yields  a  wine  of  very  superior 
quality,  and  has  given  the  name  of  'Hook'  to  the  produce  of  the 
country  generally. 

The  Valley  of  the  Bhine  below  Bingen  produces  many  pleasant 
and  wholesome  wines,  but  inferior  to  the  above.  Those  of  Lorch, 
Engholl,  Steeg,  Oberwesel,  and  Boppard  may  be  mentioned  among 
the  white.  The  Rheinbleicherte  (i.e.  'bleich  rothe',  or  pale  red)  of 
Steeg,  Oberwesel,  and  Bacharach,  and  the  light-red  wines  of  Salzig, 
Camp,  Horchheim,  the  Kreuzberg  (near  Ehrenbreitstein),  and  Vrbar 
are  also  esteemed.  Most  of  the  wines  grown  below  Coblenz  are  light- 
red.    Linz  produces  excellent  Rheinbleicherte. 

Bhenish  Bavaria  yields  a  vast  quantity  of  white  wine,  gener- 
ally known  as  wine  of  the  Haardt,  or  Palatinate.  The  best 
qualities  are  those  of  Ruppertsberg ,  Deidesheim,  and  Forst,  after 
which  rank  those  of  Vngstein,  Durkheim,  Wachenheirrij  and  Konigs- 
bach.  Good  red  wines  are  grown  at  Gimmeldingen  and  Callstadt.  The 
inferior  wines  of  this  district  usually  have  a  coarse,  earthy  flavour. 

Bhenish  Hesse  produces  the  excellent  Scharlachberger  above 
mentioned,  next  to  which  rank  Niersteiner,  Oppenheimer,  Lau- 
benheimer,  and  Bodenheimer,  all  pleasant  wines,  but  less  delicate 
than  those  of  the  Rheingau.  Liebfrauenmilch  (*Lait  de  Notre  Dame') 
is  a  good  sound  wine  which  owes  much  of  its  reputation  to  the  su- 
perior wines  sold  under  that  name,  and  to  the  quaintness  of  the 
name  itself.  The  vineyards  where  it  is  grown  (p.  285)  are  incapable 
of  producing  a  tenth  part  of  the  wine  usually  so  called.    The  flat 

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WINE.  xxiii 

vineyards  of  Ingelheim  between  Mayence  and  Bingen  yield  a  good 
light-ied  wine. 

The  Nalie  wines,  like  those  of  the  Palatinate,  possess  considerable 
body,  but  little  flavour.  That  of  the  Scharlachberg  near  Bingen  is 
sometimes  classed  as  a  Nahe  wine,  and  is  the  best  of  this  group. 

The  Valley  of  the  Ahr  is  the  most  northern  point  at  which  the 
grape  is  successfully  cultivated.  Its  light  and  wholesome  *Ahr- 
hleicherte^  are  chiefly  consumed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  their  growth. 
They  are  strengthening  and  astringent  in  their  properties,  and 
resemble  Burgundy  of  an  inferior  class.  The  best  are  those  of 
Walporzheimf  Ahrweilerj  and  Bodendorf, 

The  Moselle  wines  are  chiefly  grown  amidst  rugged  and  sterile- 
looking  slate  rocks,  and  are  distinguished  by  their  delicate,  aromatic 
flavour,  though  the  inferior  varieties  are  apt  to  be  rather  acid  in 
bad  years.  They  are  considered  remarkably  wholesome,  being  fre- 
quently recommended  to  persons  of  sedentary  habits.  The  best  are 
Braunebergetj  Ohligshergef,  and  BemcasteUr  Doctor^  which  possess 
a  delicious  ^bouquet' ;  and  next  to  these  may  be  placed  the  wines  of 
Zeltingeny  Oraach,  Pisport,  and  Orunhaus, 

The  Siuur  wines  possess  even  less  body  than  those  of  the  Moselle, 
but  surpass  them  in  aroma.  Scharzhofberger  is  a  most  excellent 
wine  of  this  district. 

Markgr&fler,  the  wine  of  the  Duchy  of  Baden  (Affenthal  red, 
Klingenhcrg  white),  the  wines  of  Alsace»  the  Neekar  wines,  and 
those  of  the  Bergstrasse  are  almost  entirely  consumed  in  their  re- 
spective districts. 

The  difference  which  exists  among  the  products  of  the  various 
vintages  on  the  Rhine  presents  a  marked  contrast  to  the  tolerably 
uniform  quality  maintained  by  the  wines  of  Southern  Europe.  The 
best  wine-years  of  the  nineteenth  century  in  the  Rhinegau  were 

1806,  1811, 1822, 1834, 1846, 1867,  1862,  1865,  1868,  1893,  and 
1895;  and  good  average  vintages  occurred  in  1801,  1802,  1804, 

1807,  1815,  1818,  1819,  1825-27,  1831,  1835,  1848,  1855,  1868, 
1869, 1861,  1884,  1886,  1889,  1892,  and  1897.  But  even  in  these 
years  the  yield  was  by  no  means  uniformly  excellent  in  all  parts  of 
the  Rhiueland.  The  climatic  conditions  are  not  the  same  in  all  the 
districts ;  different  years  seem  to  suit  the  different  kinds  of  vine ; 
and  the  vineyards  in  the  most  favoured  positions,  where  the  grapes 
ripen  soonest,  often  suffer  the  most  severely  from  the  early  spring 
frosts.  In  a  full  *autumn',  which  is  hardly  ever  attained,  a  'morgen' 
(about  8/g  acre)  of  land,  with  3500-4000  vines,  should  yield  5  'ohm* 
(about  150  gallons)  of  wine. 

Many  of  the  inns  on  the  Middle  and  Upper  Rhine  (especially  in  the 
imaDer  towns)  have  wine  on  draught,  which,  though  not  entered  on  the 
wine-list,  is  frequently  better  than  the  cheaper  wines  in  bottle. 

Sparkling  Wines.  The  effervescing  German  wines  were  first 
manufactured  at  Esalingen  (in  1826),  Heilbronn,  Wurzburg^   and 

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xiiv  RHENISH  ART. 

Mayence,  and  afterwards  at  Treves,  Coblenz^  aad  various  other 
places.  These  wines,  generally  known  in  England  as  Sparkling 
Hock  and  Moselle,  are  distinguished  from  the  French  wines  by  the 
predominance  of  the  flavour  of  the  grape ,  and  when  obtained  in 
unexceptionable  quarters,  are  a  light,  pleasant,  and  wholesome 
beverage. 

The  process  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  employed  in  the  preparation 
of  Champagne.  The  wine  (which  at  the  outset  is  an  ordinary  still  wine, 
worth  is.  or  is.  6d.  per  bottle)  is  bottled  after  the  first  fermentation  is  over  \ 
and,  by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  and  exposure  to  a  mod- 
erately warm  temperature,  a  second  fermentation  and  the  generation  of 
carbonic  acid  are  produced.  The  bottles  are  then  placed  on  racks  with 
their  corks  downwards,  where  they  remain  a  month  or  more,  and  are 
opened  several  times  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  sediment.  At  this  stage  of 
the  process  as  many  as  20-26  per  cent  of  the  hotties  usually  burst,  while 
the  contents  of  the  survivors  are  much  diminished.  When  the  wine  has 
thus  been  thoroughly  clarified,  the  bottles  are  filled  up,  a  small  quantity 
of  syrup  (cognac  and  sugar)  is  added  to  give  the  requisite  sweetness  and 
body,  and  the  final  corking  then  takes  place.  The  sparkling  wine  thus 
laboriously  prepared  for  the  market  is  worth  more  than  double  the  original 
still  wine  from  which  it  is  manufactured.  The  inferior  qualities  are  gener- 
ally the  most  effervescent. 

The  traveller  is  cautioned  against  dealing  with  any  but  the  most 
respectable  wine-merchants ,  and  should  remember  that  excellence 
of  quality  is  quite  incompatible  with  lowness  of  price.  As  a  pleasant 
and  wholesome  summer-beverage  the  Rhenish  wines  of  the  second 
and  third  class  may  be  imported  at  a  moderate  price,  the  duty 
and  carriage  amounting  to  4-58.  per  dozen ;  but  the  higher  class  of 
Rhine- wine,  of  which  Marcobrunner  may  be  taken  as  a  sample, 
cannot  be  drunk  in  England  under  five  or  six  shillings  a  bottle. 

XII.  Bhenish  Art. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  we  find  that  several  different  strata 
of  civilisation ,  if  we  may  use  the  expression ,  had  deposited  them- 
selves ere  the  rest  of  Germany  had  abandoned  its  primitive  forest 
life.  The  lowest  of  these  strata,  were  a  section  of  them  exhibited 
in  geological  fashion,  would  show  an  ante-Roman  period,  when  the 
natives  carried  on  a  busy  trade  with  the  Mediterranean  seaports  and 
with  Etruria.  After  Cesar's  campaigns  a  new  stratum  was  gradually 
formed  by  the  occupation  of  the  country  by  Roman  military  colo- 
nists. This  stratum  was  afterwards  sadly  contorted  and  broken  by 
the  storms  of  the  barbarian  migrations ,  and  was  at  length  almost 
entirely  covered  by  that  of  the  Frankish-Christian  period,  which 
began  in  the  7th  century. 

On  Rhenish  soil  antiquarians  will  find  frequent  opportunities 
of  tracing  back  the  history  of  human  culture  to  its  earliest  begin- 
nings, while  the  Roman  relics  are  so  numerous  and  important  as  to 
arrest  the  eye  of  even  the  superficial  observer.  The  Peutinger 
Tabula ,  the  mediaeval  copy  of  a  Roman  map ,  now  preserved  at 
Vienna,  shows  the  principal  towns  on  the  Rhine  and  also  on  the 

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BHENISH  ART.  xxv 

tributaries  of  its  left  side,  together  with  the  roads  connecting  them, 
and  even  the  baths  and  other  public  buildings  with  which  they 
were  embellished.  The  Roman  colonies  on  the  Rhine,  being  chiefly 
the  headquarters  of  the  different  legions ,  always  presented  a  mili- 
tary character.  Most  of  the  existing  monuments  are  accordingly 
TOtive  stones  and  tombstones  of  soldiers.  The  artistic  forms  are, 
as  a  rule ,  somewhat  primitive ,  while  the  subjects  are  frequently 
borrowed  from  the  Oriental  worship  of  Mithras.  We  also  find  that 
in  some  cases  Gallic  deities  have  been  Romanised.  The  principal 
collections  of  Roman  antiquities  are  at  Bonny  Cologne,  Wiesbaden, 
Carlaruhe,  Mannheim,  Speyer,  Mayence,  and  Treves,  At  Treves, 
moreover ,  we  obtain  an  admirable  idea  of  the  character  of  a  very 
important  Roman  provincial  town. 

Treves,  the  capital  of  Germania  Inferior ,  and  for  a  considerable 
time  an  imperial  residence ,  did  not  merely  possess  buildings  of 
practical  utility  like  most  of  the  other  colonies,  but  was  also  embel- 
lished with  some  of  the  noblest  decorative  Roman  structures  ever 
erected  north  of  the  Alps.  On  the  banks  of  the  Moselle  also,  outside 
the  town,  rose  along  series  of  viUas,  many  of  which  were  richly  de- 
corated with  mosaics.  Before  the  decline  of  the  Roman  supremacy 
Chiustianity  established  itself  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine ,  but 
no  churches  of  the  earliest  Christian  epoch  are  now  extant.  The 
only  relics  of  that  period  are  the  nucleus  of  the  cathedral  of  Treves, 
a  number  of  tombstones  at  Treves,  and  several  monumental  in- 
scriptions, such  as  that  in  the  porch  of  St.  Gereon  at  Cologne. 

In  consequence  of  the  barbarian  migrations,  the  Roman-Christian 
culture  was  afterwards  almost  completely  buried  beneath  a  new 
stratum  of  German  paganism,  and  the  vast  valley  of  the  Rhine 
relapsed  into  its  primitive  rudeness,  although  at  Cologne  and  Treves 
the  arts  were  not  entirely  extinct.  The  Austrasian  princes,  however, 
were  munificent  patrons  of  the  church,  and  the  Bishops  of  Treves 
and  Cologne  (^Nicetius  and  Charentinus,  about  the  middle  of  the  6th 
cent.}  distinguished  themselves  by  their  zeal  for  church-building. 

The  artistic  efforts  of  the  Merovingian  period,  of  which  a  few 
traces  only  are  left ,  as  in  the  Cathedral  at  Treves,  appear  to  have 
been  very  insignificant  compared  with  those  of  Charlemagne's  reign 
(768-814).  In  the  prosecution  of  his  numerous  undertakings  the 
great  emperor  was  not  merely  stimulated  by  his  zeal  for  the  promo- 
tion of  art,  but  by  his  ardent  desire  to  revive  the  ancient  glory  of 
the  Roman  empire  and  to  invest  his  capital  with  all  the  splendour  of 
the  ancient  imperial  residences,  and  particularly  that  of  Ravenna. 
The  Carlovingian  art  was  entirely  centred  around  the  court  of  the 
emperor,  and  he  was  personally  attended  by  a  circle  of  scholars 
called  his  academy.  Among  the  members  of  the  academy  was 
Eginhard,  who  in  consequence  of  his  surname  Bezaleel  has  been 
supposed  to  have  been  familiar  with  art ,  but  of  whose  labours  in 
that   sphere   nothing  certain  is  known.    To  him  is  attributed  the 

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xxTi  RHBNISH  ART. 

building  of  tbe  Pcdaee  Chapel  at  Aix-la-Chapelle  (now  the  Caih» 
edral^  which  is  still  in  comparatiyely  good  preservation.  It  is  ob- 
viously a  copy  of  the  court-chapel  at  Ravenna  (San  Yitale) ,  but 
has  been  more  judiciously  and  articulately  designed,  and  has  in  its 
turn  served  as  a  model  for  later  edifices,  for  which  either  its  ground- 
plan  (as  at  Ottmarsheim  in  Alsace),  or  its  double  row  of  columns  in 
the  interior  of  the  rotunda  (as  in  the  case  of  St  Maria  im  Capitol 
at  Cologne  and  the  Minster  at  Essen')^  has  been  borrowed. 

The  magnificence  of  the  palaces  which  the  great  emperor  pos- 
sessed on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  was  a  favourite  theme  with  the 
poets  and  prose-writers  of  the  day.  According  to  their  accounts  the 
Palace  at  Ingelheim  was  not  inferior  in  splendour  to  that  of  Aix-la- 
Chapelle  itself ,  but  of  that  edifice  there  is  now  no  trace  beyond  a 
few  fragments  of  walls  and  of  columns  which  have  been  transferred 
to  other  buildings.  The  same  variety  of  capitals  is  also  seen  in  the 
Church  of  8t.  Justin  at  Hochst  am  Main  founded  under  Abp.  Otgar 
of  Mayence  (826-847).  —  During  the  later  Garlovingian  period  the 
Rhineland  again  suffered  severely  from  an  irruption  of  barbarians. 
At  this  period  the  Normans  took  possession  of  the  banks  of  the 
river  and  penetrated  into  its  side- valleys ;  but  civilisation  was  now 
too  far  advanced  to  be  seriously  retarded  by  this  catastrophe. 

Endowed  with  a  rich  art -heritage  handed  down  by  antiquity, 
the  Rhenish-Frankish  tribes  gradually  overspread  the  country  after 
the  middle  of  the  10th  cent. ,  from  which  period  down  to  the  Re- 
formation the  development  of  Rhenish  art  is  traceable  without  in- 
terruption. 

In  the  Eably  Middlb  Aass  (10th-12th  cent.)  Rhenish  art 
differed  materially  from  that  of  most  other  parts  of  Germany  in 
being  the  product  of  an  already  cultivated  soil,  where  ancient 
models  were  abundant ,  while  in  these  other  districts  it  was  the 
growth  of  a  soil  previously  untiUed.  On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine 
were  preserved  fragments  of  Roman  and  early-Christian  edifices ; 
there  the  eye  was  familiar  with  architectural  forms  and  mouldings ; 
in  the  Rhenish  towns  were  always  to  be  found  artificers  possessed 
of  considerable  manual  skill;  and  owing  to  the  constant  com- 
munication kept  up  with  foreign  places  skilled  labour  could  always 
be  readily  imported  when  necessary.  Rhenish  art  was  thus  matured 
considerably  earlier  than  that  of  Lower  Saxony  and  Swabia.  At 
the  same  time  the  features  common  to  the  whole  of  early  mediaBval 
art  in  the  west  recur  in  that  of  the  Rhine  also.  The  forms  of 
worship  having  been  well  defined  in  the  early-Christian  period, 
the  churches  all  present  a  certain  uniformity  of  appearance.  Like 
the  early-Christian  basilicas,  the  Rhenish  churches  of  the  10th- 
12th  cent,  are  of  an  elongated  form ;  they  possess  aisles  which  are 
lower  and  narrower  than  the  nave ;  the  altar  is  placed  at  the  round- 
ed extremity  of  the  nave ;  and  on  the  whole  the  basilica  type  is 
preserved  throughout. 

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RHENISH  ART.  xxtU 

The  Rhenish  edifices  also  possess  the  characteristics  of  the 
Bomaneique  Style ,  which  are  common  to  the  great  majority  of 
works  of  the  10th-i2th  centuries.  In  this  style  the  pillars  and 
columns  are  connected  by  means  of  round  arches,  the  doors  and 
windows  also  terminate  in  round  arches ,  ^nd  the  naves  and  aisles 
are  either  covered  with  flat  roofs  or  with  groined  vaulting  of  round- 
ed form.  The  Cubical  Capital ,  which  was  probably  invented  by 
mediaeval  architects  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  harmonious  con- 
necting Hnk  between  the  column  and  the  arch  above ,  is  also  used 
in  the  Rhineland ,  and  the  copings  and  mouldings  of  the  Rhenish 
buildings  are  the  same  as  those  employed  in  the  contemporaneous 
edifices  of  Western  Europe.  The  Rhenish  architecture,  however,  oc- 
cupies an  independent  position  of  its  own  within  the  Romanesque 
group.  The  character  of  the  building-material  (red  sandstone  or 
tufa) ,  local  traditions ,  and  the  prevalent  taste  of  the  period  all 
combine  to  impart  to  the  Rhenish  buildings  a  distinctive  character 
which  seldom  or  never  recurs  in  other  countries.  At  an  early  period 
the  use  of  alternate  courses  of  different  colours  came  into  vogue. 
Thus  we  find  arches  faced  with  stone  alternating  with  light-coloured 
brick ,  the  latter  material  having  been  taken  from  Roman  ruins ; 
and  when  the  architects  had  exhausted  their  supply  of  bricks ,  the 
art  of  making  which  was  unknown  in  Germany  in  the  early 'middle 
ages ,  they  produced  the  same  effect  by  the  use  of  dark  and  light 
coloured  stones.  The  copings  on  pillars  and  walls  were  generally 
copied  from  Roman  models ,  and  the  ancient  Corinthian  Capitals , 
formed  of  a  wreath  of  leaves,  were  imitated  with  varying  success 
(as,  indeed,  had  also  been  the  case  in  the  Garlovingian  epoch). 
The  long-established  practice  of  art,  and  the  wealth  which  the 
Rhenish  towns  succeeded  in  amassing  at  an  early  period,  enabled 
them  gradually  to  extend  the  dimensions  of  their  churches ,  to 
develop  the  construction  of  vaulting  earlier  than  elsewhere ,  and 
to  impaTt  to  their  buildings  a  picturesque  richness  of  effect.  — 
The  same  conditions  were  likewise  favourable  to  the  development 
of  the  Goldsmith's  Art,  and  that  of  Enamel  Painting.  The 
Rhinelanders  also  attained  considerable  proficiency  in  Mubal 
Painting  at  an  early  period ,  but  for  the  plastic  art  they  displayed 
less  aptitude. 

As  early  as  the  lith  cent,  the  practice  of  art  and  of  artistic 
handicrafts  seems  to  have  become  naturalised  in  the  Rhenish  towns 
and  in  those  of  Lorraine.  In  all  the  larger  towns  extensive  building 
operations  were  undertaken ,  and  at  the  same  time  a  number  of 
handsome  abbey-churches  sprang  up.  At  Strassburg  ^csXtedial  was 
erected  by  Bishop  Werner;  at  Cologne  the  archbishops  Herihert  and 
Anno  exhibited  much  zeal  for  church-building ;  and  at  Treves  the 
cathedral  was  extended  by  Poppo.  The  grandest  monuments  of 
German  mediaeval  art ,  however ,  are  the  three  Cbntbal  Rhbnish 
Cathbdbals  of  Mayence,  Speyer,  and  Worms,   examples  of  the 

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xxvlll  RHENISH  ART. 

golden  prime  of  a  style  which  began  and  also  ended  earlier  here 
than  in  other  northern  districts.  It  was  not  tiU  the  Qothic  period 
that  France  and  England  fully  realised  their  architectural  ideals, 
while  the  independent  exertions  of  German  masters  had  already 
culminated  in  their  Romanesque  cathedrals.  It  has  frequently 
been  asserted  that  these  cathedrals  originally  possessed  flat  roofs 
only ,  and  were  not  covered  with  vaulting  till  the  i2th  cent. ;  but 
recent  researches  prove  that  the  vaulting  of  Mayence  Cathedral  dates 
from  immediately  after  1081 ,  when  the  older  wooden  roof  was  de- 
stroyed by  flre.  It  is  also  probable  that  the  nave  of  Speyer  Cath- 
edral, in  spite  of  its  gigantic  proportions,  also  received  a  stone  vault- 
ed roof  soon  after  1097.  The  charming  Abbey  Church  of  Loach  proves 
that  vaulted  churches  were  easily  and  skilfully  constructed  in  the 
first  half  of  the  12th  cent.,  notwithstanding  the  novelty  of  the  style. 
While  the  pillars  of  this  church  are  of  uniform  pattern  and  are 
placed  at  considerable  intervals,  those  of  the  Central  Rhenish  ca- 
thedrals are  placed  much  closer  together,  and  those  which  bear  the 
vaulting  are  differently  shaped  from  those  supporting  the  arcades. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  for  a  considerable  part 
of  the  13th,  CoLooNB  was  the  chief  cradle  of  Rhenish  art.  The  sa- 
credness  of  the  city  as  the  custodian  of  the  highly  revered  relics  of 
the  Magi,  combined  with  the  wealth  and  the  political  power  of  its 
enterprising  citizens,  not  only  led  to  the  rebuilding  of  all  the  prin- 
cipal churches  at  this  period,  but  was  conducive  to  the  general  pro- 
gress of  architecture,  and  contributed  to  impart  a  rich  and  pictur- 
esque decorative  character  to  the  city  itself.  The  architects  do  not 
seem  to  have  aimed  at  grandeur  of  dimensions.  The  naves  of  the 
churches  are  usually  small  and  insignificant ,  but  the  builders  ex- 
pended their  utmost  skill  on  the  embellishment  of  the  choirs.  The 
apse,  in  combination  with  the  rounded  transepts ,  was  regarded  as 
the  nucleus  of  the  church ,  the  other  distinctive  features  of  which 
consisted  of  the  gable  of  the  choir,  the  dome,  and  the  towers.  As  an 
example  of  the  picturesque  effect  of  this  arrangement  we  may  men- 
tion the  Church  of  the  Apostles  at  Cologne  when  viewed  from  the 
Neumarkt.  At  the  same  time  variety  of  ornament ,  richness  of  ar- 
ticulation, and  pleasing  effects  of  colour  were  also  studied.  Immed- 
iately under  the  roof  runs  a  gallery ,  which  is  of  some  structural 
importance  inasmuch  as  it  lessens  the  dead  weight  of  the  wall,  but 
is  also  effective  in  a  decorative  point  of  view  as  the  small  columns 
stand  out  in  strong  contrast  to  the  dark  background.  Generally, 
indeed,  the  Rhenish  masters  appear  to  have  devoted  much  attention 
to  such  effects  of  light  and  shade.  Under  the  gallery  runs  a  frieze 
consisting  of  dark  slabs  framed  with  light-coloured  stone ;  the  col- 
umns and  half-columns  are  of  a  different  material  from  the  walls ; 
and  even  the  pilasters  are  composed  of  differently-coloured  stones. 
In  keeping  with  this  picturesque  character  is  the  richness  of  the 
ornamentation.     The  architects  were  not  satisfied  with  straight  and 

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RHENISH  ART.  xxix 

simple  lines.  Their  windows  are  either  ronnd  or  fan-shaped  y  and 
they  are  disposed  in  groups  or  enclosed  within  a  pointed  arch.  The 
portals  consist  of  archways  resting  on  several  columns ;  the  space 
above  the  doors  is  filled  with  sculpture ;  and  the  facade  is  enlivened 
with  narrow  pillars  and  entwined  arches.  ^Buildings  of  this  char- 
acter, whioh  are  typical  of  the  Rhineland,  and  occur  in  almost  every 
town  of  any  importance,  are  usually  described  as  belonging  to  the 
Transitional  Style,  as  if  the  forms  recurring  in  them  were  iden- 
tical with  those  which  pave  the  way  for  the  Gothic.  The  term, 
however,  is  entirely  misapplied,  as  it  is  impossible  in  the  rich  and 
handsome  Rhenish  churches  of  the  i2th  and  beginning  of  the  13th 
cent,  to  discover  the  slightest  germ  of  the  Gothic  style.  The  style 
may,  however,  be  appropriately  characterised  as  the  final  and  most 
ornate  manifestation  of  Romanesque  architecture,  a  definition  which 
is  borne  out  by  the  general  tendencies  of  Rhenish  art.  As  an  auxil- 
iary of  this  style  we  may  now  mention  the  art  of  Mubal  Painting, 
which  was  developed  at  an  unusually  early  period.  Most  of  these 
paintings  were  unfortunately  covered  with  whitewash  at  a  later  pe- 
riod, but  those  still  existing  (at  Sehwan-Rheindorf,  opposite  Bonn, 
the  paintings  of  which  resemble  a  symbolic  poem ,  at  Brauweiler 
near  Cologne,  in  8t.  Maria  im  Capitol  at  Cologne,  etc.)  exhibit  a 
rich  and  thoughtful  style  of  composition,  and  show  that  the  painters 
were  skilled  in  drawing  and  even  in  the  delineation  of  complicated 
action.  We  cannot  with  any  certainty  judge  of  the  colouring ,  but 
we  at  least  possess  sufficient  materials  to  warrant  the  inference  that 
the  art  of  wall-painting  was  industriously  practised  on  the  banks  of 
the  Rhine  as  early  as  the  second  half  of  the  i2th  century. 

This  prevalent  branch  of  the  Romanesque  style,  with  its  highly 
developed  ornamentation,  was  not  hastily  abandoned  by  the  Rhenish 
masters,  and  it  was  not  tiU  about  the  year  1250  that  the  Oothio 
Style,  introduced  firom  France,  was  completely  nationalised  in  this 
part  of  Germany.  The  precise  manner  in  which  the  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, with  its  spirited  flying  buttresses,  lofty  vaulting,  and  other 
members  relieving  the  monotony  of  the  walls ,  was  introduced  into 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is  unknown ;  but  it  was  probably  adopted 
simultaneously  at  several  different  points.  At  Cologne  we  observe 
in  the  church  of  St.  Oereon  an  attempt  to  apply  the  new  precepts  to 
the  old  forms,  and  in  the  church  of  the  Minorites  we  have  a  some- 
what plain  example  of  Gothic  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  13th 
century.  In  the  Liehfrauen-Kirche  at  Treves  the  Gothic  forms  were 
successfully  adapted  at  an  early  period  to  an  unusual  ground-plan. 
The  Cistercian  Church  at  Marienstati  in  Nassau  is  a  fine  example  of 
the  early-Gothic  style,  destitute  as  yet  of  all  ornamentation,  and  to 
the  same  style  belong  the  church  of  Rufach  in  Alsace  and  the  west- 
em  parts  of  8t,  Thomas  at  Strassburg.  In  the  second  half  of  the 
13th  cent,  began  the  construction  of  the  great  Gothic  Cathbdbals. 
Those  of  Cologne  &nd  Mei%  were  designed  entirely  in  the  Gothic 

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XXX  RHENISH  ART. 

style,  while  at  Strassburg  and  Freiburg  the  earlier  Romanesqae  be- 
ginnings were  adapted  to  the  new  Gothic  work.  Goethe  has  con- 
tributed much  to  immortalise  the  name  of  Erwin  of  J^tdnbachy  who 
is  usually  described  as  the  originator  of  Strassburg  Minster,  but  that 
master's  actual  share  of  the  work  seems  to  have  been  limited  to  the 
W.  facade.  The  masters  of  the  Strassburg  as  well  as  of  the 
Cologne  cathedral  must  have  been  thoroughly  conversant  with  the 
details  of  French  Gothic,  but  they  were  very  far  from  being  mere 
mechanical  copyists.  The  facade  at  Cologne  and  the  tower  at 
Strassburg  are  entirely  emanations  of  German  imagination.  In 
order,  however,  to  convince  himself  of  the  independence  of  the 
German  masters  of  the  Gk>thlc  style  the  traveller  must  not  confine 
his  attention  to  the  great  cathedrals.  Among  the  Smallbb  Gothic 
Chubches  he  will  discover  frequent  proofs  of  originality  and  not 
a  few  gems  of  architecture.  Among  these  smaller  churches  we 
may  mention  the  grave  and  dignified  Abbey  Church  of  Altenberg, 
near  Cologne,  and  the  Collegiate  Chureh  of  Xanten ,  erected  under 
the  influence  of  Cologne  masters ;  the  superb  Church  of  St.  Cath- 
arine at  Oppenheim  and  the  ponderous  Cathedral  of  Frankfort  on  the 
Central  Rhine ;  and  lastly ,  in  Alsace ,  the  Chureh  of  8t.  Oeorge  at 
Schlettstadtj  the  Church  of  88.  Peter  and  Paul  at  Weissenburg,  the 
church  of  Nieder-Haslach  y  and  that  of  Tftarm,  with  its  graceful 
tower.  The  numerous  churches  of  the  Mendicant  and  Dominican 
orders,  some  of  which  have  nave  and  aisles  of  equal  height,  are  gen- 
erally too  plain  and  monotonous  to  arouse  much  general  interest. 

The  highest  efforts  of  the  Gothic  architects  in  Ais  part  of  Ger- 
many were  devoted  to  the  building  of  churches ,  but  the  Rhenish 
districts  also  contain  Sbculab  Edieioiis  ,  including  castles ,  town- 
halls  ,  guild-houses ,  and  private  mansions ,  which  present  Gothic 
forms  or  at  least  Gothic  characteristics. 

The  eye,  however,  is  less  frequently  struck  by  buildings  of  this 
class  than  by  the  churches,  partly  because  well-preserved  examples 
are  now  comparatively  rare,  and  partly  because  in  secular  archi- 
tecture generally  there  is  usually  less  room  for  marked  changes  of 
style.  Throughout  the  whole  of  the  middle  ages  the  dwelling-houses, 
for  example,  were  constructed  of  timber,  and  the  character  of  their 
ornamentation  was  rather  determined  by  the  nature  of  the  material 
than  by  the  fashion  of  the  day.  Even  in  the  case  of  the  stone 
houses  the  projecting  upper  stories  frequently  recall  the  style  of 
their  wooden  predecessors.  The  architectural  character  of  the 
palaces,  chateaux,  and  castles,  on  the  other  hand ,  was  necessarily 
determined  by  military  considerations.  As  the  requirements  of  both 
defensive  and  offensive  operations  were  almost  equally  important 
during  the  11th  cent,  and  again  during  the  13th,  the  cMteaux  and 
castles  retained  the  same  forms  for  several  centuries.  Of  Barba- 
rossa*s  residence  at  Oelnhauseny  an  imperial  palace  of  the  Roman- 
esque period,  there  still  exist  considerable  ruins.   Th^  palace  of  the 

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RHENISH  ART.  xxxl 

Sftme  empeioT  at  Hagenau  (1157)  was  entirely  destroyed  during 
the  TMrty  Years'  War.  Among  tlie  medisval  Castles  those  of 
Alsace  are  very  numerous  and  important.  The  most  considerable 
are  the  three  Castles  of  Rappoltsweilerj  that  of  Hoh-Barr  near  Za- 
bem  (1170),  the  Hoh-Konigsbwg^  the  Wasenburg^  near  Nieder- 
bronn,  and  the  Lichtenherg  near  Neuweiler,  the  last  three  belonging 
to  the  Gothic  period.  Most  of  the  hills  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine 
and  its  tributaries  are  also  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  medisBval 
castles,  or  others  rebuilt  in  their  original  style.  In  most  cases  the 
pinnacled  B4rgfried,  or  keep,  which  was  used  both  for  purposes  of 
attack  and  defence,  is  still  standing;  remains  of  the  Palas,  or 
dwelling-house,  are  also  frequently  preserved ;  and  in  many  cases 
the  outworks,  gateways,  and  towers  by  which  the  approach  to  the 
castle  was  protected  are  still  traceable.  These  ruins,  however,  which 
impart  so  picturesque  a  charm  to  the  scenery  of  the  Rhine,  rarely 
possess  much  artistic  value.  The  most  interesting  of  the  Rhenish 
castles  is  that  of  Reiehenbergj  neat  St.  Goarshausen,  with  its  three 
stories  borne  by  columns. 

The  Gothic  architecture  is  also  notable  for  the  richness  of  its 
Plastic  Oknambntation.  The  portals  and  the  various  niches 
and  canopies  are  generally  filled  with  statues,  and  the  gables  and 
other  parts  of  the  building  adorned  with  reliefs.  The  finest  speci- 
mens of  Gothic  statuary  are  to  be  seen  on  the  Portals  of  the  Lieb- 
frauen^Kirche  at  Treves  and  the  Cathedrals  of  Strassburg  and  Frei- 
burg, The  Statues  of  the  Apostles  in  the  choir  of  the  Cologne  Cath- 
edral  also  afford  evidence  that  the  Gothic  sculpture  was  sometimes 
richly  c(doured.  The  same  cathedral  also  contains  the  Monument 
of  Archbishop  Conrad  von  Hochstaden^  the  finest  specimen  of  bronze 
statuary  of  the  Gothic  period.  The  numerous  tombstones  of  that 
period  must  also  be  examined  by  the  student  of  the  progress  of 
Gothic  sculpture,  such  as  those  of  ArchbisJiop  Siegfried,  Peter  Aspelt, 
and  Johann  von  Nassau j  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mayence,  and  those  of 
ijHiniher  von  Schwarxburg  and  Johann  von  Holzhausen  and  his  Wife 
In  the  Cathedral  of  Frcmkfort.  The  best  examples  of  late-Gothic 
sculpture,  which  afterwards  degenerated  into  a  mere  handicraft,  are 
to  be  found  in  the  altars  of  carved  wood. 

Throughout  the  middle  ages,  however,  Rhenish  artists  evinc- 
ed more  aptitude  for  the  art  of  Paintino  than  for  that  of  sculpture. 
The  stained  glass  at  Strassburg,  Cologne,  and  Oppenheim,  and  the 
remains  of  14th  cent,  mural  paintings  at  Cologne  are  not  less  val- 
uable than  the  easel-pictures  of  the  15th  cent,  which  are  still  pre- 
served. 

The  CoLOONB  School  op  Paintino  was  the  first  of  those  which 
attained  to  any  celebrity  on  German  soil.  The  earliest  master  of 
the  school  known  to  us  by  name  is  Meister  Wilhelm,  who  flourished 
at  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.,  and  from  whose  brush  we  possess 
one  authentic  work  in  the  faded  mural  paintings  of  th^  Hansa-Saal 

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xxxii  RHENISH  ART. 

in  the  Ratlilians  of  Cologne  (now  preserved  in  the  Wallraf-Richartz 
Museum).  A  numher  of  easel-pieces  are  attrihuted  to  him  with 
little  or  no  foundation.  There  is,  however,  hotter  authority  for 
attributing  to  MeUter  Stephan  Lochner  the  execution  of  the  Dom' 
hildj  the  finest  German  painting  of  the  15th  century.  This  master, 
who  was  a  native  of  the  district  of  Constance,  and  died  in  1451, 
has  been  successful  in  substituting  figures  of  considerable  spirit 
and  life  for  the  traditional  types  of  his  predecessors ,  with  their 
emaciated  arms ,  their  undeveloped  busts ,  and  their  childish  ex- 
pression of  countenance,  but  he  has  failed  to  take  the  next  step  to- 
wards fidelity  to  nature  by  omitting  to  individualise  his  characters. 
His  female  figures  are  aU  exactly  alike,  and  his  male  figures,  though 
divided  into  young  and  old,  are  also  destitute  of  distinctive  charac- 
ter. In  his  treatment  of  the  drapery,  weapons,  gold  trinkets,  and 
all  other  external  accessories,  however,  Meister  Stephan  cannot  be 
reproached  with  the  fault  of  monotony ;  in  executing  these  details 
he  is  scrupulously  faithful  to  nature ,  and  his  task  was  doubtless 
facilitated  by  his  occasional  use  of  the  newly-invented  art  of  oil- 
painting.  The  Dombild,  the  Madonna  wiih  the  VioleU  (preserved 
in  the  Archiepiscopal  Museum),  and  the  Madonna  in  the  Arbour  of 
Roses  (in  the  Museum)  are  the  most  important  works  of  this  school, 
the  career  of  which  somewhat  resembled  that  of  the  early-Flemish 
school  under  the  leadership  of  Hubert  van  Eyck.  The  Rhenish  mas- 
ters, however,  were  soon  surpassed  by  their  Flemish  contemporaries, 
and  ere  long  entirely  lost  their  independence.  About  the  end  of 
the  15th  cent,  the  art  of  painting  in  the  Rhineland  was  at  length 
thoroughly  pervaded  with  Flemish  influence.  The  new  style,  how- 
ever, was  least  successfully  imitated  on  the  Lowot  Rhine,  and 
particularly  at  Cologne.  A  number  of  pictures  of  the  end  of  the  15th 
and  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  mostly  found  in  churches  of  Co- 
logne, have  been  collected  by  the  brothers  Boisser^e,  Hr.  Wallraf, 
and  others.  The  drawing  is  stiff,  the  colouring  gaudy,  and  the  ex- 
pression harsh.  These  works  are  generally  classed  in  accordance 
with  their  subjects;  and  we  thus  frequently  hear  of  the  'Master  of 
the  Lyversberg  Passion',  the  'Master  of  the  St.  Bartholomew',  and 
other  equally  vague  designations.  The  historian  of  art  will  find 
abundant  opportunity  of  studying  this  school  in  the  Wallraf-Riohartz 
Museum  of  Cologne.  One  of  the  best  masters  of  the  Lower  Rhine 
was  Jan  Joest  of  Calcar,  who  painted  the  high-altar-piece  in  the 
principal  church  there  about  1505.  Portrait -painting  was  also 
practised  with  some  success  at  this  period  by  Barthel  de  Bruyn, 
Johann  von  Mehlem,  and  others. 

The  Uppbb  Rhenish  and  Albmannian  School  op  Paintino 
had  a  more  prosperous  career  than  the  Lower  Rhenish.  The  masters 
of  this  school  also  succumbed  to  Flemish  influence,  but  they  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  better  use  of  what  they  had  learned  in  the 
Netherlands.     At  the  head  of  the  school  was  Martin  Schongauer  of 

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RHENISH  ART.  xxxiil 

Golmar  (d.  1488),  a  pupil  of  Rogier  van  der  Weyden,  and  more 
famous  as  an  engraver  than  as  a  painter.  The  engraver's  art ,  in- 
deed, fostered  by  the  advance  of  scientific  pursuits,  was  moie 
rapidly  and  successfully  developed  than  that  of  painting.  The 
Younger  Holbein ,  Mathias  OrHnewald ,  and  Hans  Balduny  Orien 
were  also  members  of  this  school,  but  as  their  training  was  not 
strictly  Rhenish  they  are  only  mentioned  here  in  passing.  Holbein's 
famous  ^Madonna  of  Burgomaster  Meyer'  is  preserved  at  the  Palace 
of  Darmstadt. 

When,  at  a  somewhat  later  period,  the  tide  of  the  Benaitsance 
overflowed  theRhineland,  it  met  with  little  or  no  resistance.  After 
a  brief  conflict  with  the  Gothic  architecture,  which  gave  rise  to  the 
erection  of  a  number  of  curious  buildings  in  a  mixed  style,  the 
Renaissance,  introduced  from  France  and  Flanders,  and  possessing 
little  in  common  with  the  genuine  Italian  Renaissance,  became 
naturalised  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  about  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century.  This  new  style  of  art,  however,  never  throve  satisfactorily 
on  Rhenish  soil,  partly  because  the  Rhineland  had  cea^^ed  to  be  a 
great  centre  of  civilisation  as  it  had  been  in  the  middle  ages,  part- 
ly because  the  sway  of  ecclesiastical  princes  is  less  favourable  to  the 
steady  progress  of  art  than  that  of  hereditary  sovereigns,  and  also 
because  this  unfortunate  region  was  the  theatre  of  numerous  wars 
which  of  course  paralysed  all  artistic  effort.  Although  Renaissance 
art  never  took  the  form  of  a  permanent  and  organic  system,  it  has 
bequeathed  to  the  Rhineland  several  works  of  great  importance. 
Foremost  among  these  is  the  CaHle  of  Heidelberg^  the  most  sumptu- 
ous example  of  German  Renaissance,  next  to  which  we  may  men- 
tion the  Porch  of  the  Rathhaus  of  Cologne,  the  fragment  of  the 
Rathhaus  of  JuUch,  and  the  Schloss  ofAschaffenburg.  On  the  Upper 
Rhine,  in  the  Palatinate,  and  in  Baden  we  encounter  a  number  of 
handsome  ch&teaux  and  pleasing  houses  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
the  16th  century. 

The  history  of  the  Plastic  Abt  of  the  Renaissance  period  is 
traceable  in  the  numerous  tombstones  of  the  16th  and  17th  cen- 
turies, which  are  to  be  found  not  only  in  the  large  churches  of  the 
principal  towns,  but  also  in  smaller  and  more  remote  places,  such 
as  Simmem^  Boppard,  and  St.  Amual  near  Saarbriicken. 

The  dependence  of  the  Rhineland  on  the  Netherlands,  which  is 
often  noticeable  in  the  province  of  architecture,  is  still  more  ob- 
vious in  the  Painting  of  this  period.  Numerous  Netherlands 
masters  migrated  to  the  German  courts,  and  the  Germans  them#- 
selves  imitated  these  foreign  masters,  even  when  they  drew  their 
inspirations  from  the  Italians.  In  the  second  half  of  the  16th  cent, 
the  German  masters  fell  under  the  influence  of  the  Dutch  school, 
and  when  French  taste  came  to  be  in  vogue  they  again  yielded  their 
homage  to  the  fashion  of  the  day.  Many  of  these  painters,  even 
down  to  the  18th  cent.,  such  as  RooSy  Juneker,  and  Seekatz^  possessed 

Babdkkkb'b  Rhine.  iSth  Edit.  ^       ^^  C^(^rMn\c> 

Digitized  by  Vj v!70  V  l\^ 


xxxlv  RHENISH  ART. 

considerable  natural  ability  and  manual  skill,  but  at  tbe  present  day 
their  works  are  weU-nigb  consigned  to  oblivion. 

The  most  imposing  of  the  Rhenish  edifices  of  the  18th  century 
are  the  palaces  in  the  Baboqitb  and  Rococo  Sttlbs,  erected  by  the 
various  petty  Rhenish  princes,  temporal  and  spiritual,  in  imitation 
of  th«3  palace  of  Versailles,  such  as  those  of  CarUruhe,  Mannheim, 
Bruchaaly  Briihl,  and  Bonn. 

At  the  close  of  the  century  the  Rhenish  principalities  were 
swept  away  by  the  French  Revolution,  and  with  them  were  extin- 
guished the  last  signs  of  the  vitality  of  art.  After  the  restoration 
of  peace,  however,  a  revival  began  to  take  plane.  The  Boisser^e  collec- 
tion (p.  xxxli)  was  the  means  of  bringing  early-Rhenish  art  into  very 
favourable  notice  and  of  inspiring  the  public  with  confidence  in  the 
capabilities  of  Rhenish  artists.  The  ^Romanticists'  were  desirous 
that  Cologne  should  be  made  the  new  centre  of  art  and  science,  but 
in  1818  the  university  "was  founded  at  Bonn,  and  in  1819  the 
academy  at  DOssbldobf  was  re-established.  The  painter  Cornelius, 
who  was  appointed  director  of  the  academy,  and  who  usually  spent 
the  winter  only  at  Dusseldorf  (and  the  summer  at  Munich),  exer- 
cised no  great  influence  on  the  progress  of  Rhenish  art.  He  was 
succeeded  by  WUhdm  Schadow  (1827),  under  whose  able  guidance 
the  Diisseldorf  School  was  brought  into  the  right  track  and  secured 
the  favour  of  the  public.  The  chief  subjects  of  the  painters  of  this 
period  are  scenes  f^om  private  life,  melancholy,  sentimental,  and 
humorous,  or  poetical  themes  readily  intelligible  to  the  middle 
classes  of  society,  and  their  style  is  generally  pleasing.  Some  of 
the  masters  of  this  school,  and  particularly  C.  F.  Leasing,  have  also 
chosen  themes  of  the  deepest  national  interest.  Sixty  years  have 
elapsed  since  the  Diisseldorf  School  first  attained  celebrity,  and  the 
public  taste  has  undergone  material  changes  since  that  period,  but 
the  industrious  colony  of  painters  on  the  banks  of  the  Dussel  still 
deservedly  enjoys  a  high  reputation.  Lastly  we  may  mention  the 
school  of  art  connected  with  the  Stadel  Gallery  at  Frankfobt,  the 
academy  of  Cablsbuhb,  forming  a  kind  of  offshoot  of  the  Diissel- 
dorf School,  and  (quite  recently)  Dabmstadt,  at  aU  of  which  modern 
German  painting  is  taught  and  practised  with  considerable  success. 


y  Google 


1.  From  Brassels  to  Cologne. 

141  M.  By  ExpEESs  in  5-6V2  brs.  (fares  26  fr.  25,  19  fr.  25  c).  Small 
articles  of  luggage  are  examined  at  Herbesthal,  registered  Inggage  on  ar- 
riral  at  Ck)logne.  Finest  views  between  Louvain  and  Li^ge  to  the  right. 
District  between  Li^ge  and  Aiz-la-Ghapelle  replete  with  interest. 

The  DussBLDORF  Railway  diverges  from  the  line  described  below  at 
Verviers  (p.  3),  and  runs  via  Bltyherg  (cnstom-honse)  and  Aix-la-Chapelle 
(Templerbend  Station).  From  Aix-la-Ghapelle  to  Diisseldorf,  see  B.  5. 
Through-carriages  at  Brussels  for  Diisseldorf  (Berlin,  Hunburg,  etc.)* 

BnuselS  t.  —  Hotels,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town :  Bbllsvub,  Db 
Fi.A2n>RB,  Db  l'Eubopb,  R.  at  these  from  41/2  or  5,  D.  5-6,  pens.  13V«-15  fr. ; 
Hbngbllb,  Rue  Boyale  103,  R.  from  4,  D.  5  fr. ;  Db  Fsancb,  Montague  du 
Pare  6,  R.  from  5,  D.  5,  pens.  11-14  fr.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  town: 
HftTBOFOLB,  Place  de  Brouck^re,  Gband-Hotbl,  Boulevard  Anspach,  Hotel 
db  l'Univbbs  et  db  Su&db,  Rue  Neuve  48  and  Boul.  du  Kord  7,  at 
these  three,  R.  from  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from  I2V2  fr. ;  Db  Saxe,  Db  l^Empbbbub, 
Rue  Keuve  (111  &  93) ;  Cbntral  ,  Place  de  la  Bourse ,  pens.  10  fr. ;  Db 
LA  PosTB,  Rue  Foss^-aux-Loups,  D.  4  fr. ;  De  Viennb,  Rue  de  la  Fourche, 
less  pretending. 

English  (Thurch  Service  at  the  Church  of  the  ReturrecHon^  in  the  Rue 
Stassart ,  and  at  Chrittehureh ,  Rue  Grespel,  Avenue  de  la  Toison  d'Or.  — 
Scottish  Presbyterian  Chweh,  Rue  Bodenbroeck  3. 

Brussels,  the  capital  of  Belgium  and  residence  of  the  king,  con- 
tains, including  the  suburbs,  about  670,000  inhab.,  of  whom  about 
2000  are  British.  Like  Paris  it  possesses  its  parks,  boulevards,  caf^s 
chantants,  and  other  attractions ;  but  this  Paris  in  miniature  should 
be  seen  before  the  great  French  metropolis  by  those  who  would  avoid 
disappointment. 

The  passing  visitor  is  recommended  to  take  the  following  walk, 
which  will  occupy  half-a-day.  Adjacent  to  the  Rue  Neuve,  which 
leads  from  the  station  into  the  city ,  rises  the  Martyrs^  Monument j 
designed  by  Geefs,  and  erected  in  1838  to  the  memory  of  those  who 
feU  in  the  war  with  Holland  in  1830. 

Then  past  the  Theatre  Royal  and  the  Bourse  to  the  *H6tel  &e 
ViUe,  The  E.  half  of  the  magnificent  facade  of  the  latter  was  begun 
in  1401,  the  W.  in  1443 ;  statues  of  Dukes  of  Brabant,  erected  in 
1853,  replace  those  mutilated  by  the  sansculottes  in  1792.  On  the 
W.  side  of  the  Place  de  I'Hdtel  de  Ville  are  various  *  Guild  Houses, 
erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  At  the  back  of  the 
H6tel  de  Ville,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  du  Chene  and  the  Rue  de 
I'Etuve,  is  the  curious  Mannikin  fountain.  The  OalerieSU  Hubert,  an 
arcade  near  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  is  a  handsome  structure,  702  ft.  long, 
containing  some  of  the  most  tempting  shops  in  the  city.  The  Place 
Boyale  is  adorned  with  the  equestrian  *8tatue  of  Godfrey  de  Bouillon, 


t  For  a  fuller  description  of  Belgian  towns,   see  Bffedeker''s  Belgium 
and  Holland. 

BaBDBKBB'S  Rhine.     15th  Edit.  Digitized  by  QiOOglc 


2     Route  1.  LOUVAIN.  From  Brussels 

in  bronze,  execnted  by  Simonls  in  1848.  The  adjoining  *Park  is  the 
favonrite  promenade  of  the  citizens.  On  the  S.  side  rises  the  Royal 
Palace,  on  the  N.  side  the  Palais  de  la  Nation. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  former  are  the  *Boyal  Museums,  with 
their  fine  collections  of  ancient  and  modem  paintings  and  modem 
sculpture.  —  Not  far  from  the  Palais  de  la  Nation,  beyond  the  Rue 
Royale,  is  the  ^Cathedral  (8te,  Qudule  et  8t,  Michel),  the  finest  church 
in  Brussels,  with  two  trancated  Gothic  towers.  It  was  erected  in  the 
13- 14th  cent.,  but  the  choir  and  the  unfinished  W.  towers  are  of 
the  15th,  the  large  chapel  of  the  Sacrament  of  the  16th  cent.,  and 
the  whole  was  restored  in  1848-56.  —  The  *  Palais  de  Justice^  in 
the  Place  Polaert,  erected  in  1866-83  after  plans  by  Polaert,  at  an 
expense  of  2,000,000^,  is  one  of  the  most  Imposing  buildings  of 
modern  times.  —  The  Music  Wiertz,  with  most  of  the  works  of 
that  talented  but  eccentric  painter,  lies  about  3/4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of 
the  Park. 

At  (2  M.)  Schaerbeek,  the  first  railway-station,  the  Malines  line 
diverges  to  the  left.   Then  several  small  stations. 

18  M.  Louvain,  Flem.  Leuven  or  Loven  (Hdtels  de  Suhde,  de  la 
Cour  de  Mons);  pop.  42,000.  The  traveller  who  stops  here  should 
not  fail  to  visit  the  *^H6tel  de  Ville,  a  magnificent  edifice  in  the 
later  Gothic  style,  erected  in  1447-63,  and  the  Gothic  *Church  of  8t, 
Peter,  dating  from  the  15th  century.  The  choir-stalls  (16th  cent.) 
in  the  Church  of  St.  Gertrude  also  merit  inspection. 

291/2  M.  Tirlemont,  or  Thienen  (Nouveau  Monde;  H6tel  Pon- 
saerts),  occupies  an  extensive  area,  nearly  6  M.  in  circumference, 
but  is  thinly  peopled  (17,800  inhab.).  The  Church  of  St.  Germain 
probably  dates  from  the  12th  century. 

The  train  next  traverses  a  lofty  embankment ,  affording  an  ex- 
tensive view.  In  clear  weather  the  Lion  and  the  Prussian  monu- 
ment at  Waterloo  may  be  distinguished  in  the  distance  to  the  right. 

Between  (33  M.)  Esemael  and  Landen  the  line  intersects  the  plain 
of  Neerwind^,  the  scene  of  two  great  battles.  In  the  first  the  Allies 
under  William  III.  of  England  were  defeated  in  the  Spanish  War 
of  Succession  by  the  French  under  Marshal  Luxembourg,  29th  July, 
1693 ;  in  the  second  the  French  under  Dumouriez  were  defeated  by 
the  Austrians  under  the  Duke  of  Ooburg,  18th  March,  1793.  —  38  M. 
Landen  (Hdtel  de  la  Hesbaye)  was  the  birthplace  of  Pepin  of  Landen, 
ancestor  of  Pepin  the  Little  and  Charlemagne,  and  'major-domo'  of 
Glothaire  II.  He  died  here  in  640,  and  was  interred  on  the  hill 
which  bears  his  name. 

47  M.  Waremme.  The  undulating,  agricultural  district  of  Bra- 
bant, with  its  phlegmatic  Germanic  inhabitants,  is  quitted  near 
(58  M.)  Ans  (490  ft.  higher  than  LiSge)  for  a  mining  tract  with  a 
Walloon  population,  remarkable  for  their  activity  and  vivacity. 

As  the  train  descends  the  rapid  (1 :  30)  incline  to  Lidge ,  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  and  the  valley  of  the  Meuse  is  obtained,     i 

'  '  oogle 


to  Cologne.  VEKVIERS.  1,  RouU.    3 

62  M.  Li^ge,  Flem.  Lutft,  Ger.  Luttich  (^Hdtel  de  Suhde;  Hdtel 
d^Angleterre;  Hdtel  de  V Europe,  etc.),  is  an  important  industrial 
town  with  169,000  inhabitants.  A  short  stay  here  should  be  devoted 
to  the  Palais  de  Justice j  the  Church  of  St.  Jacques ,  the  Cathedral 
(St.  Paul) J  and,  for  the  sake  of  the  view,  the  Citadel. 

Beyond  Li^ge  the  Meuse  is  crossed  by  the  handsome  Pont  du 
Val  Binott.  Numerous  lofty  chimneys  afford  indication  of  the  pros- 
perity of  the  district.  The  extensive  zino-foundry  of  the  Vieille- 
Montagne  company  is  next  passed,  and  the  Ourthe  crossed.  64  M. 
Chenee,  the  first  station  beyond  Li^ge,  is  another  manufacturing  town. 

66  M.  Chandfontaine  (*Orand'Hdtel  des  Bains;  *H6t  d' Angle- 
terre)  is  a  small,  but  picturesquely-situated  watering-place,  with  a 
thermal  spring  (104®  Fahr.),  rising  on  an  island  in  the  Vesdre. 

Beyond  the  next  tunnel,  the  picturesque  castle  of  La  Rochette 
is  seen  on  an  eminence  to  the  left.  Near  Le  Trooz  the  ancient  castle 
of  that  name,  now  a  manufactory  of  gun-barrels,  is  perched  on  the 
rooks  to  the  right.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  castle  of  Fraipont. 

Between  (71 1/2  M.)  Nessonvaux  and  (74^2  M.)  Pepinster,  to  the 
right,  stands  the  Chdteau  des  Masures  {masure  =  ruined  house), 
said  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  hunting-seat  of  King  Pepin.  At  Pep- 
Inster  ('Pepin's  terre')  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Spa^  the  well 
known  watering-place,  71/2  M.  distant.  —  75^2  M.  Ensival. 

77^2  M.  Vervierg  {Httel  de  Londres,  in  the  town ;  Hdtels  du 
Chemin  de  Fer  and  d'Allemagne,  both  at  the  station),  with  62,500 
inhab.,  the  junction  for  Bleyberg  (see  p.  1),  is  a  busy  commercial 
town.  Here  and  in  the  environs  upwards  of  400,000  pieces  of  cloth 
are  manufactured  annually. 

On  an  eminence  near  (82V2  M.)  Dolhain,  a  modern  town,  pictur- 
esquely situated  in  the  vaUey  of  the  Vesdre,  stands  the  ancient  for- 
tress of  Limburg,  almost  the  sole  remnant  of  the  capital  of  the  duchy 
of  that  name,  destroyed  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1675.  Pedestrians  will 
be  repaid  by  a  walk  (about  25  M.)  from  Dolhain  via  Verviers  to  Liftge. 

8DV2M.HerbestlLal  (*Rail.  Restaurant;  Bellevue)^  the  first  Prus- 
sian village,  is  the  frontier-station  (branch-line  to  Eupen^  p.  13). 
The  custom-house  formalities  cause  a  detention  of  about  V2  ^r. 
here.  Beyond  (891/2  M.)  Astenet,  Lontzen  and  the  castle  of  Welken- 
h%u8en  lie  to  the  left.  The  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Oohl  by 
a  handsome  viaduct,  125  ft.  in  height.  To  the  left  lie  (91  M.) 
Hergenrathj  and,  in  the  distance  beyond,  the  Emmaburg,  situated 
on  the  slope  of  wooded  hills  (p.  13). 

The  train  next  passes  through  two  tunnels  (191  yds.  and  833  yds. 
respectively),  and  finally  descends  to  the  Rhenish  Station  at  — 

97  M.  Aix-la-Ghapelle.  —  Bailway  stations.  1.  Rhenish  Station  (PI. 
D,  6),  for  Cologne,  Verviers,  and  Li^ge.  —  2.  Marsehier-Thor  Station  (PI.  C. 
5,  6),  for  Gladbach,  Duageldorf,  Maastricht,  and  Antwerp.  —  3.  TempUrbena 
Station  (PI.  A,  2),  for  the  same  lines  as  Ko.  2  and  also  for  Welkenraedt, 
Venders,  and  Lifege.  —4.  CGln-Thor  or  Jmich  Station  of  the  Aix-la-ChapcUe 
and  JuUch  railway  (PI.  F,  1).  C"n,nin]o 

Digitized  by  Vi^OQlc 


4     Route  1,  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.         From  Brussels 

Hotels.  All  the  first-class  hotels  and  the  better  second-class  hotels  have 
lifts,  electric  light,  hot-air  heating,  etc.  —  In  the  Middle  of  the  Town:  ^Gband 
MoNABQUB  (PL  a;  C,  3),  Biichel  51,  E.  2V2-10,  B.  IV4,  D.  (7  p.m.)  4,  pens, 
from  6  jH  ;  *H6tbl  Nubllbks  (PI.  b ;  C,  a,  4),  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz  6, 
opposite  the  Elisenbrunnen,  with  garden  and  the  d^pendances  Eaiserbad, 
Neubad,  and  Quirinusbad  fsee  below),  R.  from  3,  B.  IV4,  D.  at  1.80  p.m.  4, 
at  7  p.m.  4721  pens,  from  0  Jl  \  *Hbneion'8  Qkand-Hotel,  Gomphaosbad- 
Str.  16-20,  adjoining  the  Comeliusbad  (see  below),  R.  3-6,  B.  11/4,  D.  at 
1.30  p.m.  8I/1,  at  7  p.m.  4,  pens.  8-12  Ulf;  ♦Hotel  de  l'Empebedb  (PI.  d:  C,  3), 
Edel-Str.  6,  R.  from  31/2,  B.  IV4,  D.  3,  pens,  from  7  Ji ;  *Impebial  (;bown 
(PI.  f ;  D,  2),  Alexander-Str.  36,  with  garden,  R.  from  3,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens, 
from  Qjf;'  ♦Monopol  (formerly  Bellevue;  PI.  c,  C  3),  Holzgraben  11,  newly- 
furnished,  R.  2-3»/2,  B.  »/4,  D.  2,  pens,  from  6ytJf;  Dbagon  d'Oe  (PL  g; 
C,  D,  3),  Comphausbad-Str.  9;  Elephant  (PL  h;  C,  3),  Ursuliner-Str.  11, 
opposite  the  Elisen-Garten ;  Konio  von  Spanien  (PL  i ;  C,  4),  Kleinmarschier- 
Stp.  52,  commercial,  R.&B.2J(  80-3  Ji?  50  pf.,  D.  incl.  wine  2V2,  pens.  6  Uf, 
well  spoken  of*,  Cablshaus  (PI.  k;  C,4),  see  p.  6^  Wilhblmbhof,  Friedrich- 
Wilhelm-Platz  3,  R.  from  2,  B.  1,  D.  IV2  3,  pens,  from  5  Jt;  Scheufen, 
near  the  Elisenbrunnen,  these  three  all  hotels -restaurants.  —  Near  the 
Rhenish  Station:  'Union  Hotel  (PL  1;  D,  5),  Bahnhof-Platz  1  R.  from  21/2, 
B.  1,  D.SJt;  *H6tbl  do  Nobd,  Romer-Str.  3,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  Q-SJ(; 
Hotel -Restadbant  Kaisebhof,  Hoch-Str.  2  and  Wall-Str.  65  (PL  D,  4), 
commercial,  R.  2V2-5,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  6  J^,  Plainer:  Hotel  Duben, 
Bahnhof-Platz  4,  R.  IV2-2V2,  B.  »/4,  i>.  from  IV4,  pens,  from  ijt;  Degens, 
Wall-Str.  1.  —  Near  the  Templerbend  Station:  Elodbebt,  Templergraben 
64-66,  with  restaurant. 

Bath  Establishments  (also  hotels,  and  open  throughout  the  whole 
year;  no  table  d'hote).  In  connection  with  the  'Upper  Springs'  (p.  10): 
Kaiserbad  (PL  36;  C,  3),  Biichel  26-30,  well  fitted  up,  JTeubad  (PL  38;  C,  3), 
Biichel  34,  Quirinusbad  (PL  39;  0,3),  Hof  7,  cheaper;  these  three  belong 
to  the  Hot.  Nuellens  (see  above).  Kdnigin  von  Ungarn  (PL  37 ;  C,  3),  Edel- 
Str.  1,  belonging  to  the  Hot.  de  TEmpereur,  pens,  frova.!  M,  The  following 
are  supplied  by  the  'Lower  Springs' :  Rosenbad  (PL  40 ;  C,  3),  Corneliusbad 
(PL  35;  C,  3),  these  two  connected  with  Henrion's  Grand-Hdtel  (see  above); 
Comphausbad  (PL  34 ;  C,  3) ,  all  three  near  the  Curhaus.  Bath-houses  at 
Burtscheid,  see  p.  12.  —  Cold  and  Warm  Baths  at  the  Swimming  Bathe^ 
Adalbert-Steinweg  10,  with  restaurant. 

Restaurants.  Wine.  *  Curhaus  (p.  10),  D.  2Vt  Uf ;  *ir«pjwr»,  Elisen- 
brunnen (p.  10);  Monopoly  see  above;  Scheufen^  Theater-Platz  5 ;  Konig  von 
Spanien^  see  above;  Carl^aus^  see  above;  Piltz^  Edel-Str.  12;  Rethet-Stubet 
Rethel-Str.  4;  Erholung^  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz  7,  with  richly-decorated 
rooms.  —  Otstebs.  ienneW^,  Klostergasse  15  (PLB,3).  —  Beeb.  Alt-Bayemy 
Wirichsbongard-Str.  43  (PL  D,  4),  D.  1-11/2^!?;  Kdvpere^  Carlshaus,  see  above  5 
Zum  Augustiner^  Priedrich-Wilhelm-Platz  3,  with  large  garden  (concerts); 
Ahn^  Theater-Platz  4;  Automat  ^  Capuzinergraben  10;  Oermania^  Friedrich- 
Wilhelm-Platz  8;  Rathskeller^  Grosskoln-Str.  1,  with  music;  Vier  Jahres- 
zeiten  (also  hotel),  Capuzinergraben  16,  opposite  the  theatre;  Fickartz^ 
at  the  Kaiserhof  Hotel  (see  above),  with  a  handsome  concert-room. 

Oafes.  At  the  Curhaus  (see  p.  10) ;  at  the  Elisenbrunnen  (p.  10) ;  Mon^ 
poly  Wilhelmehofy  see  above;  Kaiser- Ca/i^  on  the  groundfloor  of  the  Hdtel 
Nuellens;  at  the  Lousberg  (see  p.  12).  —  Confectionees.  Wahly  Theater- 
Platz  7 ;  Oeuleny  Hoch-Str.  9 ;  Oellers,  Dahmengraben  7. 

Oabs.    From  7  a.m.  to  10  p.m.  (at  night  double  fares):  — 

(1)  Per  diHve:  Within  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Burtscheid,  1  pers.  60,  each 
additional  pers.  20  pf. ;  luggage  under  251bs.  free,  trunk  30  pf.  —  To  the 
Belvedere  Inn  on  the  Lousberg^  1-2  pers.  i  J(  60  pf.,  3-4  pers.  2  Jt. 

(2)  By  time:  Each  V«  hr.  1-2  pers.  1  Uf  30  pf.,  3-4  pers.  1  Uf  50  pf.;  each 
additional  1/4  hr.  65  or  75  pf. 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  Aiz-la-Chapelle  and  Burtscheid  in  various 
directions  (10-20  c);  comp.  the  Plan.  Outside  the  town:  to  the  Stadt- 
Wald  (Ronheide,  CarlshShe),  Linzenshdutchen  ^  and  Forsthaus  Siegel  (these 
three  lines  run  to  the  Aachener  Wald  or  Burtscheider  Wald);  to  Haaren 


y  Google 


y  Google 


y  Google 


y  Google 


to  Cologne.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  J.  Route.      5 

Biirtenberff  (Wilhelmstein),  Vaels  (three  favourite  reaorts),  to  Herzogenrath, 
Siolberfff  Etchu>eiler,  Vicht^  etc. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Capuzinergraben  17  and  Theater-Platz  10-12 
(PI.  C,  4;  p.  6).    For  branch-offices,  see  the  Plan. 

Theatres.  Stadt-Theater  (PI.  C,  4 :  p.  6),  performances  in  winter  only ; 
Bernarts'  Saigon-Theater  (PL  C,  D.  3),  Adalbert-Str.  20-24,  with  concert- 
room,  garden,  and  restaarant;  Eden-Theater  (PI,  C,  4),  Franz-Str.  45,  varieties. 

Yisitora'  Tax.  For  a  year,  1  pers.  15,  each  additional  pers  \OjH;  for 
two  months  in  summer,  12,  2  pers.  20,  eac  additional  person  5  jH  (in 
winter  50  per  cent  less). 

United  States  Oonaul,  Frank  M.  Brundage,  Bsq.,  44  Heinrichs-All6e. 

English  Ohurch  (St.  Alban's)^  Convent-Str. ;  services  on  Sun.  at  8  a.m., 
11  a.m.,  and  4  p.m.    Resident  Chaplain,  Rev.  C.  F.  Jonet^  B.A. 

AiX'la-Chapelle  (615  ft.),  German  Aachen,  a  very  ancient  town 
with  135,235  inhab.  (Including  Burtscheid,  p.  12;  incorporated  in 
1897),  the  Aquae  Orani  of  the  Romans,  lies  in  a  fertile  basin  sur- 
rounded by  gently  sloping,  wooded  hills.  It  is  a  manufacturing  town 
of  some  importance,  with  upwards  of  100  cloth-factories,  45  iron- 
foundries  and  machine-shops,  etc.  Aachen  was  frequently  the 
residence  of  the  Frankish  kings,  and  it  was  a  favourite  abode  of 
Charlemagne,  who  made  it  the  capital  of  his  dominions  to  the  N.  of 
the  Alps,  and  died  here  in  814.  From  his  death  down  to  the  ac- 
cession of  Ferdinand  I.  (1531)  Aix  witnessed  the  coronation  of  all 
the  German  emperors  (30),  and  was  called  par  excellence  the  free 
city  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire  and  seat  of  royalty  (^urba  Aquensis^ 
urbs  regaliSy  regni  sedea  principaliaj  prima  regum  curicC).  In  the 
middle  ages  Aix-la-Chapelle  was  the  scene  of  many  imperial  diets 
and  ecclesiastical  convocations,  and  in  and  after  the  17th  cent, 
several  congresses  met  here.  In  1668  the  peace  between  Louis  XFV. 
and  Spain  was  concluded  here,  by  which  the  French  king  abandoned 
his  pretensions  to  the  Netherlands;  the  second  Peace  of  Aix-la- 
Ohapelle,  of  1748,  terminated  the  Austrian  War  of  Succession ;  and 
by  the  treaty  of  1818  the  German  armies  were  recalled  from  France. 
In  1793  the  town  was  occupied  by  the  French ;  in  1801  it  became 
capital  of  the  Department  of  the  Roer;  and  in  1815  it  passed  to 
Prussia. 

Externally  this  venerable  imperial  city  has  retained  few  relics 
of  her  ancient  history,  and  is  now  practically  a  modern  town.  The 
cathedral,  the  Rathhaus,  a  few  relics  of  the  mediaeval  fortifications, 
now  converted  into  promenades,  such  as  the  restored  Marachier-Thor 
(PI.  C,  5),  the  Lange  Thurm  (PI.  A,  3;  line  view  from  the  top,  adm. 
20  pf."),  and  the  recently  restored  Pont-Thor  (PI.  B,  2),  dating  from 
the  14th  cent.,  and  the  Marienburg  (PI.  B,  1),  of  the  16th  cent.,  are 
the  only  remains  of  the  old  town. 

The  open  space  in  front  of  the  Rheniah  Station  (PI.  D,  5;  p.  3) 
is  embellished  with  the  *  Warriors'  Monument  (PI.  22),  designed  by 
Drake  and  erected  in  1872  in  memory  of  the  wars  of  1866  and 
1870-71.  —  Passing  the  handsome  modem  Gothic  Marien-Kirche 
(PI.  11;  D,  4,  5),  in  brick,  erected  by  Statz,  we  reach  the  broad 
Thbatbe-Steassb,  and  follow  it,  to  the  left,  to  the  Th]^ater-Platz 

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6     Route  1.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  From  BrusstU 

(PI.  0,  4),  in  the'  centre  of  which  stands  the  Tkeatrt^  erected  in 
1822-25  and  enlarged  in  1901.  Opposite  (S."W.)  are  the  Qovemmtnt 
Buildings  (PI.  20).  Adjacent  are  a  Telegraph  Tower  and  the  entrance 
to  the  handsome  Post  Office  (PI.  28;  0,  4),  in  the  Capnzinergraben. 
The  Gothic  Carlshaus  (PI.  k;  0,  4),  at  the  comer  of  the  Theater- 
Platz  and  the  Gapuzinergrahen,  serves  as  the  meeting-place  for 
yarious  Roman  Gatholic  societies.  In  front  of  the  theatre,  on  the  "W. , 
is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Emperor  William  /.,  by  F.  Schaper  (1901), 
with  allegorical  reliefs  on  the  pedestal.  —  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz 
and  Elisenbrunnen,  see  p.  10.  Passing  the  latter  on  the  left ,  we 
proceed  through  the  Ursuliner-Str.  to  the  cathedral,  which  rises 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 

The  ^Cathedral,  or  Minster  (PI.  G,  3),  consists  of  two  distinct 
parts  in  different  styles  of  architecture.  The  portion  erected  by 
Gharlemagne  in  796-804  as  the  court  and  national  church  of  the 
Garlovingian  kingdom,  and  consecrated  by  Leo  III.,  a  noble  example 
of  the  Byzantine  style,  is  an  octagon  copied  from  San  Vitale  at  Ra- 
venna, and  built  by  Master  Odo,  48  ft.  in  diameter,  surrounded  by 
a  sixteen-sided  ambulatory,  and  terminating  in  a  cupola,  104  ft. 
high.  The  eight  gables  of  the  central  structure  are  of  the  beginning 
of  the  13th  cent.,  the  fantastic  roof  is  of  the  17th.  The  octagon  is 
surrounded  by  several  Chapels,  built  in  the  14th  and  15th  cent.,  and 
afterwards  partly  altered.  On  the  "W.  side  are  the  principal  entrance 
and  vestibule,  surmounted  by  a  modem  Gothic  bell-tower,  with  a 
pointed  and  slated  roof.  Adjoining  the  octagon  X)n  the  E.  is  the  lofty 
and  elegant  Gothic  Choir ,  begun  in  1353,  and  completed  in  1413. 

Through  the  "W.  portal ,  the  Bronze  Doors  of  which  were  cast 
about  804,  or  the  adjacent  side-door,  we  enter  the  Vestibule,  where, 
on  modem  pillars,  stand  a  brazen  Wolf  (or  She-Bear),  a  Roman  work 
of  the  3rd  or  4th  cent.,  and  a  Pine  Cone,  dating  from  the  10th  cent, 
both  having  doubtless  once  belonged  to  fountains.  According  to  a 
medisBval  legend,  the  devil  helped  in  the  construction  of  the  church 
on  condition  that  the  first  living  being  that  entered  the  building 
should  be  sacrificed  to  him.  The  magistrates  entered  into  the  com- 
pact ,  but  outwitted  the  devil  by  admitting  a  wolf  into  the  sacred 
edifice  on  its  completion. 

The  Inte&iob  op  the  Octagon  is  borne  by  eight  massive  pillars, 
which  separate  the  central  space  from  the  surrounding  two-storied 
ambulatory.  The  lofty,  round-arched  openings  of  the  upper  story,  or 
'Hochmunster'(p.  7),  are  enlivened  with  a  double  row  of  columns,  of 
unequal  length,  some  of  them  in  marble,  others  in  granite,  brought 
from  Rome,  Treves,  and  Ravenna.  Some  of  them  were  replaced  by 
new  ones  in  1845,  and  the  capitals  are  all  new.  The  large  Mosaic 
in  the  dome,  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  Ghrist  surrounded  by 
the  24  Elders  of  the  Apocalypse,  was  executed  at  Venice  in  1882 
by  Salviati,  from  a  17th  cent,  copy  of  an  old  mosaic  vdth  which 
the  dome  was  originally  adorned.    The  rest  of  the  central  church 

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to  Cologne.  AIX-LA.-CHAPELLE.  1.  Route.      * 

has  been  adorned  since  1902  with  mosaics  and  maible,  from  the 
designs  of  H.  Schaper.  Above  are  the  twelve  Apostles,  two  arch- 
angels, Mary  and  John  the  Baptist,  with  Charlemagne  as  founder 
and  Pope  Leo  III.  as  consecrator  of  the  church.  In  the  frieze  below 
the  original  inscription  of  eight  yerses  has  been  reproduced;  and 
the  columns  are  once  more,  as  formerly,  encased  in  cipoUino.  The 
gilded  Candelahrum,  upwards  of  13  ft.  in  diameter,  was  presented 
by  Frederick  Barbarossa  in  1165.  The  inscription  *Carolo  Magno'  on 
the  pavement  beneath  it  is  modem.  The  tomb  of  the  great  emperor 
was  probably  in  a  chapel  adjoining  the  church.  —  The  so-called 
Vngarische  Capelle,  adjoining  the  octagon  on  the  S.  (to  the  right  of 
the  W.  entrance),  recently  restored  in  the  baroqne  style ,  contains 
the  treasury  (p.  8).  —  The  oblong  Kreuz- Capelle,  or  Chapel  of  8t.  Ni- 
cholas y  on  the  N.W.  side,  retains  its  Gothic  architecture  of  the 
second  half  of  the  15th  century. 

The  egress  leads  to  the  late-Gtothic  Oloistbbs,  which  were  restored 
in  1894;  to  the  right  is  the  late-Romanesque  Purgatory  Chapel^  erected  by 
Philip  of  Swabia  after  1200,  with  a  rich  facade  \  the  'Quadrum'  (court)  con- 
tains a  modem  fountain  by  Prof.  Frentzen  and  some  old  remains. 

The  Choie  is  remarkable  for  its  light  and  elegant  proportions. 
The  thirteen  windows  (83  ft.  high,  6-16  ft.  wide)  are  filled  with 
modem  ''^Stained  Glass ,  representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
Virgin  (Assumption  and  Coronation  designed  by  Cornelius),  execut- 
ed partly  at  Berlin,  and  partly  at  Cologne  and  Aix.  On  the  pillars 
between  the  windows  are  statues  of  Charlemagne,  the  Virgin  Mary, 
and  the  Twelve  Apostles,  of  1430,  recently  coloured.  In  the  centre 
hangs  a  piece  of  wood -carving  (1564)  above  the  empty  Tomb  of 
Otho  III.  (d.  1002).  In  front  of  the  tomb  is  a  Reading  Desk,  consist- 
ing of  an  eagle  on  a  rich  stand  of  open-work,  cast  in  copper  in 
the  15th  century.  To  the  right  and  left  are  Winged  Altars,  with 
paintings  of  the  Cologne  School  (15th  cent.).  The  Pulpit,  adorned 
with  copper-gilt  plaques  with  embossed  designs,  precious  stones, 
and  carved  ivory  (5th  and  8th  cent.),  was  a  gift  of  Henry  II.  (d.  1024), 
but  restored  in  the  17th  cent. ;  it  is  protected  by  a  wooden  cover. 
The  High  Altar  is  a  modem  work  from  Schneider's  designs  (1876), 
in  which  several  old  columns  have  been  incorporated.  The  Episcopal 
Throne  and  other  modern  church  furniture  also  deserve  notice.  The 
sacristan  shows  the  pulpit,  the  imperial  throne,  and  the  sarcophagus 

(V2-1  Jt). 

The  HochmOnstbb,  or  gallery  of  the  octagon,  contains  the  lately 
restored  Throne  of  Charlemagne,  composed  of  marble  slabs,  which 
was  used  during  divine  service  by  Charlemagne  and  his  successors, 
and  afterwards  at  the  imperial  coronations.  An  ancient  sarcophagus, 
in  Parian  marble,  with  the  Rape  of  Proserpine  in  relief,  preserved 
in  the  gallery  of  the  Kreuz-Capelle  (see  above),  passes  for  the  coffin 
of  Charlemagne  (see  above).  The  Balustrade  between  the  columns 
was  cast  about  the  year  804,  and  like  the  bronze  doors  (p.  6)  is  of 
Carlovingian  workmanship. —  The  Carls- Capelle,  which  adjoins  the 


8     Route  1 .  AIX-LA-GHAPELLE.  From  BrusttU 

Hochmiinster  on  the  N.,  dates  from  the  second  half  of  the  15th  cent. ; 
the  ^Anna-Capelle,  on  the  S.,  was  consecrated  in  1449.  The  MaUhiai* 
Capelle,  also  on  the  S.,  built  in  the  latter  half  of  the  14th  cent.,  is 
used  as  a  sacristy. 

The  rich  Cathedral  Treasury  (shown  daily,  except  Sundays  and  festi- 
yals,  from  10  to  6  o'clock ;  ticket  for  1-3  persons  3  Ui,  for  each  additional 
person  1  Jf;  apply  to  the  Sacristan,  Domhof  2^  a  single  traveller  wiU 
frequently  find  opportnnities  of  joining  a  party)  is  contained  in  the  above- 
mentioned  Ungarische  Oapelle.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the 
following :  2A.  (Golden  Ankp^mUum  resembling  the  Pala  d'Oro  in  St.  ]fark*d 
at  Venice,  with  sixteen  reponss^  reliefs,  representing  scenes  from  the 
Passion,  etc.,  a  gift  of  Emp.  Otho  III.  and  restored  by  Emp.  William  I. 
in  1872 ;  16.  Snmptuous  late-Bomanesqne  silver  Shrine  of  the  Four  Oreat 
Relics,  executed  in  1220-36  (containing  the  'robe  of  the  Virgin,  the 
swaddling-clothes  of  the  infant  Christ,  the  bloody  cloth  in  which  the  body 
of  John  the  Baptist  was  wrapped,  and  the  linen  cloth  with  which  the 
Saviour  was  girded  on  the  Cross** ,  which  are  shown  to  the  public 
gratis  only  once  every  seven  years;  last  occasion  in  1902);  47.  Silver 
Reliqiiary  of  Cfiarlemagne^  likewise  a  magnificent  late-Bomanesque  work, 
containing  the  relics  of  the  great  emperor,  who  was  canonized  in  1165; 
18.  Buit  of  Charlemagne,  in  gold  and  enamel,  14th  cent.;  1.  Ch-oss  of 
Lothaire  III,,  presented  by  that  emperor  (d.  1137);  19.  €torman  Ropal 
Crown ,  14th  cent. ;  21.  Hunting  Horn  of  Charlemagne,  of  Oriental  ivory 
work;  numerous  medieeval  vessels,  in  gold  and  silver,  candelabra,  and 
other  curiosities.  These  objects  are  preserved  in  large  glass  cabinets, 
closed  by  winged  doors,  on  the  insides  of  which  are  paintings  of  the 
early-Flemish  and  early-Ck)logne  schools. 

To  the  "W.  of  the  cathedral,  in  the  Fischmarkt,  is  the  building 
for  the  Archives  (PI.  21 ;  B,  G,  3) ,  handsomely  fitted  up  in  the 
interior,  erected  in  1886-89  on  the  site  of  the  earliest  town-hall  of 
Aix  (of  1267 ;  subsequently  called  the  'Gras'),  of  which  the  facade 
has  been  retained;  the  statues  of  the  seven  electors  are  modern. 
A  permanent  Selection  of  Documents  is  shown  on  week-days,  12-1, 
free.  A  common  staircase  connects  the  Archives  with  the  new  Library 
(90,000  vols.),  opened  in  1897. 

To  the  E.,  behind  the  choir  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  Church  of 
St.  Foillan  (PI.  9  j  C,  3),  the  oldest  parish-church  in  the  town.  The 
present  building,  dating  from  the  late-Gothic  period,  was  rebuilt 
in  the  17th  cent,  and  restored  in  1883-88.  —  The  Church  of 
St.  Michael,  or  Jesuits'  Church  (PL  12;  B,  C,  4),  built  in  1618-28, 
contains  a  Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Honthorst  (1682).  Nearly 
opposite  is  the  Real-Oymnasium  (PL  25;  B,  C,  4),  opened  in  1891. 
—  The  Church  of  St.  Paul  (PL  13 ;  B,  3)  contains  the  remains  of 
frescoes  of  the  15th  cent,  and  modem  stained-glass  windows. 

To  the  N.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Mabkt-Platz  (PL  C,  3),  with 
a  Fountain  and  a  poor  statue  of  Charlemagne  erected  in  1620.  Here 
is  situated  the  *BatlLhaii8,  or  Town  Hall  (PL  C,  3),  a  handsome 
Gothic  edifice,  begun  about  1333  on  the  site,  and  partly  with  the 
fragments  of  the  ancient  Carlovingian  palace,  and  completed,  with 
the  exception  of  the  ornamentation,  about  1350.  After  a  partial 
restoration,  the  building  was  injured  by  a  fire  in  1883,  by  which  the 
two  towers,  the  Markt-Thurm  to  the  "W.  and  the  Oranus-Thurm  to 


to  Cologne.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  7.  Route.     9 

the  E.,  were  almost  entirely  bnrned  down.  Both  belonged  in  large 
part  to  the  ancient  palace,  and  the  latter  served  as  storehouse  for 
the  imperial  archives  and  treasures.  The  subsequent  complete  re- 
storation, by  Q.  Frentzen,  was  completed  in  1902.  On  the  fa^de 
are  54  statues  of  German  emperors,  and  over  the  windows  of  the 
first  floor  is  a  frieze  with  28  reliefs  representing  sciences,  arts, 
trades,  and  manufactures.  Below  are  coats -of- arms.  The  rear- 
fa^^de  is  embellished  with  statues  of  Alcuin,  Eginhard,  Benedict  of 
Aniane,  Wibald  of  Stavelot,  and  the  burgomasters  Gerhard  Chorus 
and  Johann  von  Punt,  besides  various  coats-of-arms. 

A  flight  of  steps,  erected  in  1878,  leads  from  the  market-place  to  the 
Vestibule  on  the  first  floor,  which  is  decorated  with  mottoes  and  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  gtulds  (ring  for  the  custodian;  adm.  60  pf.).  The 
reliefs  on  the  Porto?  represent  the  coronation  banquet  ofBadoIf  1.  and  the 
burghers  of  Aix-la-Obapelle  taking  the  oath  of  allegiance  after  the  revolt 
of  1428;  above  is  the  Majestas  Domini,  with  Charlemagne  and  Leo  III.  — 
The  staircase,  added  in  1848,  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  of  scenes 
from  local  history,  by  Prof.  A.  Baur.  The  windows  show  the  arms  of 
various  local  families  who  have  held  municipal  office. 

The  Kaisersaal,  a  hall  55  yds.  long  and  20  yds.  wide,  with  vaulting 
borne  by  four  massive  piers,  occupies  the  whole  length  of  the  upper 
floor.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  eight  *'Frbsooes,  which  rank  among 
the  finest  modern  examples  of  historical  painting ;  the  first  four  are  by 
Alfred  Bethel  (bom  at  Aix  1816,  d.  1859);  the  others,  designed  by  him,  were 
executed  by  Kehren:  — 

1.  The  Emp.  Otho  III.  opening  the  burial-vault  of  Charlemagne; 
2.  Overthrow  of  the  ^Irmensaule'* ;  3.  Battle  with  the  Saracens  at  Cordova ; 
4.  Conquest  ofPaviain774  (these  by  Bethel)-,  5.  Baptism  of  Wittekind  and 
Alboin ;  6.  Coronation  of  Charlemagne  in  St.  Peter's  at  Rome ;  7.  Building 
of  the  Cathedral  of  Aix-la-Chapelle ;  8.  Abdication  of  Charlemagne  and 
Coronation  of  his  son  Louis  the  Pious.  The  piers  and  vaulting  bear 
polychrome  ornamentation.  The  windows  contain  armorial  bearings  of 
the  emperors;  in  the  oriel  (the  old  chapel)  are  small  stained-glass  paint- 
ings with  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin  and  the  apostles  Philip  and 
James  the  Elder,  by  Oeterrath.    Fine  echo. 

The  CoDNCiL  Hall  and  the  Burgomaster's  Booh  contain  portraits 
of  Frederick  William  in.  (1817),  Frederick  William  IV.  (both  by  Sensel), 
the  emperors  Leopold  I.,  Charles  VI.,  Charles  VII.  (by  /.  vanKessel,  1742), 
Francis  I.,  William  I.  (A.  wm  Werner ,  1890),  and  Frederick  III.  (H.  von  Angeliy 
1889),  the  Empress  Maria  Theresa,  Charlemagne  (by  an  unknown  master 
of  the  16th  cent.).  Pope  Clement  IX.,  and  others. 

The  Gothic  addition  with  the  massive  square  tower  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  Rathhaus,  between  the  Ohorus-Platz  and  the  Kloster- 
gasse,  is  the  Municipal  Administrative  Offices. 

In  the  Grosskdln-Strasse,  which  leads  from  the  market  to  the 
N.W.,  is  the  St.  Nicolaus-Kirche  (PI.  0,  3),  containing  an  altar-piece 
by  Diepenbeeck,  a  pupil  of  Rubens.  —  In  the  Templergraben,  near 
the  Templerbend  Station,  is  situated  the  Rhenish  -  Westphalian 
Polytechnic  School  (PL  B,  2,  3),  built  by  Cremer  in  1865-70,  and 
now  attended  by  700  students.  The  handsome  staircase  and  hall 
should  be  inspected.  Adjacent  is  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  a  fine 
Renaissance  edifice  built  in  1879,  with  accommodation  for  120 
students;  and  in  the  Malteser-Strasse  is  the  Mining  and  Electric 
School^  completed  in  1897.  —  The  Church  of  St.  James  (PI.  10; 
A,  4),  a  Romanesque  edifice  with  a  handsome  tower,  built  by  Wiet- 


10     Route  1.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  From  Brussels 

base  in  1877-82,  is  situated  in  the  S."W.  corner  of  the  town.  Near 
it  is  the  Zoological  Garden,  laid  out  in  1886,  a  faTOurite  resort 
(*Restaurant,  concerts;  adm.  60  pf.). 

The  celebrated  warm  Sulphub  Springs  of  Aix,  which  were 
known  to  the  Romans,  rise  from  the  limestone-rock,  and  there  are 
also  several  chalybeate  springs  which  have  their  source  in  the  clay- 
slate.  Of  the  former  the  chief  is  the  Kaiser  quelle  (131°  Fahr.),  which 
rises  on  the  *Biichel*  or  slope  of  the  market -hill  (PI.  C,  3),  and 
supplies  the  Kaiserbad,  Neubad,  *Queen  of  Hungary',  and  Elisen- 
brunnen.  The  Quirmusquelle  (125°)  rises  in  the  bath-house  of  that 
name  in  the  neighbouring  'Am  Hof .  These  two  springs  are  called 
the  *Obere  Quellen'.  The  'Untere  Quellen',  as  the  Bosenquelle 
(116°)  and  Comeliusquelle  (113°)  are  called,  rise  in  the  Comp- 
hausbad-Strasse,  a  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  others.  The  baths  of 
Aix-la-Ohapelle  are  annually  visited  by  about  4000  patients. 

The  EliBenbnmnen  (PI.  G,  3,4),  as  the  drinking  spring  is  named 
after  the  consort  of  Fred.  William  IV.,  is  in  the  Friednch-Wahelm- 
Plaiz,  The  Doric  colonnade  connected  with  it,  90  yds.  long,  was 
designed  by  Schinkel  and  erected  in  1822-24.  Two  flights  of  steps 
descend  to  the  'Trinkhalle'  {Cafi-Restaurant  in  the  pavilions  and 
colonnade).  —  At  the  back  of  the  colonnade  is  the  Eliser^-Qarterh^ 
where  another  Trinkhalle  was  erected  in  1873,  and  where  a  band 
plays  from  7.30  to  8.30  a.m.  and  12  to  1  p.m.  during  the  season 
(p.  4).  —  The  garden  opens  on  the  other  side  on  the  Ursuliner-Strasse, 
which  is  continued  to  the  N.  by  the  Edbl-Stbassb  and  the  Bt^CHBL, 
with  several  of  the  bath-houses  mentioned  on  p.  4.  The  cellar  of  the 
Kbnigin  von  Vngam  (PI.  37 ;  C,  3)  contains  remains  of  an  ancient 
Roman  bath,  which  extended  as  far  as  the  neighbouring  streets,  and 
was  connected  with  an  aqueduct  coming  from  Burtscheid  (p.  12). 
The  discovery  of  stamps  of  the  6th  legion  (*Victrix')  refers  the 
building  to  between  70  and  120  A.D.,  when  that  legion  was 
stationed  on  the  Lower  Rhine. 

From  the  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz  several  streets,  flanked  with 
handsome  shops,  lead  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Gomphausbad-Stbasse, 
in  which,  opposite  the  bath-houses,  stands  the  Curhaus  (PL  D,  3), 
built  in  1782  but  extensively  altered  and  enlarged  since.  It  con- 
tains a  large  ball  and  concert  room,  a  restaurant,  and  a  reading- 
room  (open  till  10  p.m. ;  adm.  50  pf. ,  to  concerts  and  festivals 
1  JK).  At  the  back  of  the  Gurhaus,  and  facing  the  Cur-Oarten,  is 
the  Cursaal,  in  the  Moorish  style,  built  by  Wickop  in  1863-64. 
Symphony-concerts  take  place  here  weekly. 

Near  the  Gurhaus  are  the  Church  of  St.  PeUr  (PI.  D,  2),  built  in 
1714,  and  the  Synagogue  (PI.  32;  D,  3),  in  the  Moorish  style, 
designed  by  Wickop.  Farther  to  the  S.,  in  the  Adalbert-Strasse, 
which  begins  at  the  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz  (see  above),  rises  the 
Church  of  Si,  Adalbert  (PI.  E,  3),  founded  by  Emp.  Henry  II.  in  1005 
in  honour  of  St  Adalbert,  who  was  martyred  in  Prussia.  This  build- 
Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


to  Cologne*  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  i.  RouU,     H 

ing  bas  been  mncb  altered  at  Tarious  dates,  and  was  almost  entirely 
rebuilt  by  Wiethase  in  1873-76.  --  In  the  Kaiser-Platz,  near  the 
church,  rises  the  Kaiserhrunnen,  a  tasteful  fountain  erected  in  1879. 

—  A  little  to  the  S.,  in  the  Richard-Strasse,  is  the  Protestant  ChriatuS' 
Kirehe  (P1.D,  E,  4),  by  G.  Frentzen.  Adjacent,  Wilhelm-Str.  No.  18, 
is  the  former  PalaU  Cassalette,  built  by  E.  Linse  in  1866.  -now 
containing  the  — 

^Snermondt  Mnsenm  (PI.  30;  E,  4).  The  chief  attraction  of  this 
museum  is  a  collection  of  133  valuable  paintings  of  the  early- 
German,  Flemish,  and  Spanish  schools,  presented  in  1882  to  his 
native  town  by  Herr  Bartholomew  Suermondt  (d.  1887),  a  well- 
known  connoisseur  and  patron  of  art.  Various  local  antiquities  and 
objects  of  industrial  art  have  been  added  to  these.  Open  free  on 
Sun.  &  Wed.  10-1  (in  summer  also  3-5);  other  days  adm.  50  pf. ; 
closed  on  Mon.,  except  to  strangers,  who  pay  1  Jf.  Director,  Dr.  Kisa. 

Ground  Floob.  In  a  room  to  the  right  of  the  vestibule  is  the  Collection 
of  Engraoingt^  beyond  which  is  the  former  banqueting-room  with  the  Ceramic 
Collection  (stoneware  from  Raeren,  p.  13,  etc.)-  Ethnographical  Section.  — 
A  corridor  contains  prehisioric,  Roman,  and  Frankish  discoveries  and 
architectural  fragments.  —  Four  small  rooms  on  this  floor  contain  paintings 
of  the  Wetherland'Sh  schools:  No.  9.  Herri deBles,  Flight  into  Egypt;  10. 
P.  de  Bloat ^  Dutch  cottage;  15.  Bray,  In  praise  of  the  herring;  BrekeUnkam^ 
16.  Fishwife,  17.  The  proposal;  25.  Ccmphiiy$en^  Calves;  29.  P.  Glaaszy 
Still-life;  32.  A.  Cuyp^  Interior  of  a  church;  41.  Oov.  FKnck,  Portrait  of  a 
young  lady;  42.  Hieron.  Franek^  Ball  at  Venice;  52.  Heda^  Luncheon:  54. 
C.  de  Heem,  Fruit;  Hondeeoeter,  64.  Fieldfares,  65.  Hawking  gear;  69.  N. 
van  der  Eorst,  Jephtha^s  sacrifice;  80.  De  Keyter^  Lady;  88.  Van  der  Laen^ 
Dutch  cottages;  87.  /.  van  der  Meer  van  Haarlem.  Dutch  village;  94.  Sir 
A.  Morey  Margret  Halseber ;  96.  Moreehe^  Portrait;  124.  C.  Saftleven,  Landscape 
with  cattle;  134.  D.  Tenters  tJie  Younger^  Hilly  landscape;  156.  Qerbr.  van 
den  Eeckhout,  Rabbi;  161.  Aertsen,,  Market;  A.  Brouwer^  164.  Surgeon, 
169.  Peasants'  brawl;  A.  Ouypy  177.  Still-life,  178.  Brooding  hen. 

FiBST  Floob.  One  room  here  is  devoted  to  the  Textile  Collection,  another 
to  the  Works  in  Metal.,  amongst  which  the  cutlery  is  especially  noteworthy. 

—  In  a  third  room  are  paintings  of  the  Flemish  and  Spanish  school: 
Rubens,  115.  Studies  for  the  'Fall  of  the  Damned'  at  Munich,  varying 
considerably  from  the  completed  work;  118.  The  cock  and  the  jewel. 
146.  C.  de  Vos,  Portrait;  76.  Jordaens,  Satyr  and  boy;  129.  F.  Snyders, 
Hawking  with  the  owl;  301.  Zurbaran^  St.  Francis.  —  Modern  paintings 
occupy  two  rooms :  324.  Lenbach,  Prince  Bismarck  (1894);  31.  Constable,  After 
the  storm;  126.  Schadow,  Assumption  of  the  Virgin;  A.  Calame,  Coast-scene. 
Here  also  is  a  permanent  exhibition  of  modern  paintings,  changed  from 
time  to  time.  —  On  the  staircase:  13.  F.  Bol,  Cornelias  de  Witt  and  his 
family;  146.  Paul  de  Vos,  Boar-hunt. 

Second  Floob.  •Studies  and  paintings  by  A.  Rethel.  Coins  of  Aix-la- 
Chapelle.  —  Antique  works  of  art;  works  in  the  Romanesque,  Gk>thic,  and 
Renaissance  styles.  Peasant^s  room  from  the  IH.  Eifel.  —  Room  of  the 
18th  cent.,  containing  the  •Episcopal  Throne  of  Bishop  Berdolet.  —  Two 
rooms  in  the  modem  style. 

To  the  E.,  in  the  Adalberts-Steinweg,  to  the  right,  is  a  kind  of 
marhle  temple,  erected  in  1844  to  commemorate  the  Congress  of  Aix 
in  1818  (PI.  F,  3,  4).  Adjoining  it  is  the  turreted  Gothic  Prison 
fPL  F,  4),  hy  Cremer.  —  Opposite  lies  the  Roman  Catholic  Cemetery 
(PI.  F,  G,  3),  containing  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  French 
and  German  soldiers  who  died  at  Aix-la-Chapelle  in.l870-j71.  - 

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12    Route  1.  BURTSCHEID.  From  Bruaselt 

Adjoining  the  prison,  in  the  Oongress-Strasse,  are  the  Law  Courts, 
completed  in  1888. 

Ornamental  gardens  extend  &om  the  Kaiser-Platz  to  the  Pont- 
Thor.  In  the  Hansemann-Platz  (PI.  D,  E,  2)  is  a  monument  to 
David  Hansemann  (1790-1864),  the  Prussian  minister  (1848),  who 
established  the  Aix-la-Chapelle  Fire  Insurance  Go.  —  Near  it,  in 
the  Monheims-AU^e,  is  the  Mariahilf  Hospital  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  with 
the  pleasant  grounds  of  the  Stadt-Garten  (closed  12-3),  in  which  is 
a  new  Meteorological  Observatory.  —  On  the  Salvatorberg  (PI.  0, 1), 
to  the  N.W.,  is  a  pilgrimage-church. 

The  Louflberg  (860  ft.),  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  N.  of  the 
town  (PL  B,  1 ;  cab,  see  p.  4),  and  rising  250  ft.  above  it,  ascend- 
ed in  40  min.  from  the  Marschier-Thor,  or  in  Y4  hr.  from  the  Pont 
Thor,  is  laid  out  in  grounds  and  shady  walks.  The  summit,  on 
which  rises  a  pyramid  (near  it  the  Belvedere  j  with  restaurant),  com- 
mands a  fine  survey  of  the  busy  town  and  the  wooded,  undulating 
environs,  as  far  as  the  outliers  of  the  Eifel  Mts. ;  to  the  E.  lies  the 
pretty  Soersthalj  with  its  numerous  country-residences. 

Contiguous  to  Aix  on  the  S.E.  side,  but  for  the  most  part 
beyond  the  Rhenish  Railway  and  its  viaduct  (see  p.  14),  lies  — 

Burtscheid.  —  Batbs  (comp.  PI.,  p.  4):  *  Carlsbad,  E.  2-4,  D.  2V2, 
pens.  BSJf;  *Boienbad,  pens.  6  Jt;  Louismbad,  B.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2Vsi  pens. 
h-iO  Jt  (S.  extra)*,  MeTutelsbad^  pens.  6  Jt;  Prinzenbad;  Sehweribad.  — 
Visitors'  tax  at  the  first  four  21/2  Jf,  at  the  others  IV2  J(  per  week. 

Burtscheid  or  Borcette^  now  incorporated  with  Aix-la-Ohapelle 
(comp.  p.  5),  has  considerable  manufactures  of  cloth  and  needles, 
and  also  contains  important  baths.  The  principal  springs  are  the 
Victoriabrunrien  (PI.  E,  6;  140°Fahr.),  where  a  band  plays  every 
morning  from  7  to  8  and  also  in  the  afternoon  or  evening,  the  Koch^ 
brunnen  (PI.  D,  6;  158<»),  and  a  third  hot  spring  (162*^),  which  to- 
gether yield  such  abundance  of  hot  water  as  to  form  a  Warm  Brook^ 
adjoining  which  and  separated  from  it  by  a  footpath  is  the  Cold 
Brook.  The  handsome  Curhaus  was  built  in  1887-89  (good  restau- 
rant ;  concerts).  On  an  eminence  in  the  centre  of  the  town  rises 
the  church  of  8t.  John  the  Baptist  (PI.  D,  E,  6),  which  formerly 
belonged  to  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  by  Emp.  Otho  III. 
(d.  1002),  but  was  rebuUt  in  1730.  The  Church  ofSU  Michael,  with 
a  lofty  tower,  also  on  the  hill,  was  completed  in  1761.  The  District 
Offices,  in  the  ZoUern-Str.,  contain  wall-frescoes  by  Kampf  (open 
on  Wed.  &  Sat.  3-6,  adm.  50  pf.). 

The  Frankenberg  (PL  F,  6),  past  which  an  electric  tramway  runs,  was 
once  a  hunting-seat  of  Charlemagne,  and  is  now  in  the  centre  of  a  new 
quarter  of  the  town.    The  present  bnilding,  lately  restored,  dates  from  1642. 

About  >/«  ^'  farther  in  the  same  direction,  beyond  the  railway,  is  the 
Trimbomer  Wildohen  (Restavrcmt),  a  grove  where  a  Roman  legion-stone 
from  the  Brohlthal  and  a  Roman  sarcophagus  from  Weisweiler  may  be 
seen.  The  artificial  ruin  at  the  entrance  is  constructed  of  the  fragments 
of  an  ancient  chapel.  Carriage  2V3-3  Jl.  About  1/2  M>  farther  on  is  Bchftn- 
thai,  with  ita  pretty  grounds  (no  adm.),  near  which  is  a  garden-restaurant. 

A  favourite  walk  is  to  the  PauUnenw&ldchen,  a  grove  taking  ita  name 


to  Cologne,  MALMEDY.  1.  BouU.    13 

from  Kapoleon's  sister,  1  lur.,  by  the  Sandkanl-Str.,  the  Grefelder>Str.,  and 
then  to  the  left  through  the  Soers  Valley  (restaurant). 

A  pleasant  excursion  of  about  2V2  hrs.  may  be  arranged  as  follows. 
By  the  eleetric  tramway  (p.  4)  to  the  'Waldschenke'  station  in  the  Stadt- 
Waldy  or  by  the  Verviers  and  Li^ge  railway  to  Ronheide^  and  then  walk 
0/2  M.  and  1  M.  respectively)  to  the  Carlahdhe  CRettaurant)  and  on  vii 
the  Kronprinzen-Rcut  to  (3  M.)  the  view-tower  (restaurant)  and  to  the  (2  M.) 
forester's  house  of  LinzensMtuchen  (restaurant).  Thence  we  proceed  through 
the  Burtscheid  woods  to  the  forester's  house  of  Siegel  (restaurant),  whence 
we  take  the  electric  tramway  back  to  Aix.  —  Another  plea.cant  waJk  (1  hr.) 
leads  from  the  Waldschenke  or  the  Carlshohe  via  Heldruh  and  the  Vier- 
Idnder-atein  (at  the  junction  of  Prussia,  N.  Moresnet,  Belgium,  and  Holland) 
to  VaeU  (electric  tramway,  see  p.  5). 

About  6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  on  the  hillside,  stands  the 
Emnuibarg  (restaurant),  the  ancient  but  lately  restored  castle  from  which 
Bginhard,  the  private  secretary  of  Charlemagne,  is  said  to  have  abducted 
the  princess  Emma.  It  may  be  reached  either  from  Hergenrath^  the  second 
railway-station  towards  Liege  (p.  3),  near  the  great  Oeul  Viaduct^  or  from 
Ifontzen-Moresnet^  the  second  station  on  the  Welkenraedt  line.  The  neigh- 
bouring cadmium-mines  and  zinc- foundries  of  the  Vieille  Montague  Company 
are  in  the  parish  of  Moresnet,  which  from  1816  to  1889  belonged  to  Prussia 
and  Belgium  in  common. 

Fbom  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Malmbdt,  51  M.,  in  31/4  hrs.  —  I1/4  M.  Rothe 
Erde,  see  p.  14.  l^ear  (5  M.)  Brand ,  with  a  new  church ,  are  the  water- 
works of  Aix,  ereeted  in  1871-80,  with  a  main  reservoir  capable  of  con- 
taining 1,160,000  gallons  of  water.  —  7^/t  H.  GomelimiinBter  (863  ft. ;  1400  in- 
hab.),  with  the  handsome  late-Gothic  buildings  of  a  suppressed  Abbey  (now 
a  Roman  Catholic  seminary),  in  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Milnsterbaeh, 
is  a  favourite  point  for  excursions.  The  interesting  abbey-church  possesses 
one  of  the  grave-cloths  of  Christ  and  other  relics,  said  to  have  been  pre- 
sented by  Louis  the  Debonair.  —  10  M.  Walheim  (tf20  ft.).  —  From  (13  M.) 
Raeren  (1190  ft.),  famous  for  its  stoneware  in  the  16th  and  17th  cent.,  a 
branch-line  runs  to  (5  M.)  Eupen  (*Reinartz;  Koch),  a  busy  and  pictur- 
esquely situated  little  town  (14,300  inhab.),  also  connected  with  Herbes- 
thal  (p.  3).  Baeren  and  the  next  stations,  (I8V2  M.)  Roetgen  (1345  ft.)  and 
(24  M.)  Lammersdorf  {±140  ft),  carry  on  an  active  trade  in  timber.  —  27Va  M. 
Conzen  (1806  ft.). 

30  M.  Montjoie  (1360  ft.;  *H6tel  de  la  Tour;  Vecqueray;  Wehhatipi)^  a 
manufacturing  town  with  2011  inhab.,  lies  about  IV2  M.  from  the  station, 
in  a  magnificent  situation  on  both  sides  of  the  Roer^  with  a  ruined  castle 
and  the  remains  of  an  old  watch-tower.  The  fortress,  founded  here  by 
Charlemagne  on  the  ruins  of  a  Boman  stronghold  CMons  Jovis'),  afterwards 
passed  to  the  duchy  of  Julich.  In  1815  it  was  added  to  Prussia  along  with 
the  whole  district  as  far  as  Malmedy,  the  inhabitants  of  which  still  speak 
the  Walloon  dialect.^  —  Beyond  Montjoie  the  railway  commands  a  pic- 
turesque view  of  the*  town  and  the  deep  valley  of  the  Boer,  and  then  of 
the  suppressed  convent  of  R«ichen$tein.  —  From  (34  M.)  Kalterherberg 
(1788  ft.  5  Post)  a  road  leads  through  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Perlbach  to 
(3V«  M.)  Montjoie.  —  38V2  M.  Sourbrodt,  on  a  barren  moor,  is  the  highest 
point  ofj  the  line  (1840  ft.).  —  43  M.  BUtgenbach  (Railway  Hotel) ,  near 
which,  at  Eltenbom^  is  a  large  military  manoeuvre  ground.  At  (46  M.) 
Weismes  (1586  ft.)  the  line  forks ,  the  left  branch  leading  to  (IOV2  M.) 
8t.  Vith  (and  GeroUtein,  p.  205),  the  right  to  — 

51  M.  Malmedy  (1080  ft. ;  Cheval  Blanc^  very  fair,  pens.  4-5  Jt ;  Grand  Cerf; 
JaeiA),  a  town  with  4700  inhab.,  in  a  picturesque  valley,  watered  by  the 
Warche.  Malmedy  is  the  chief  town  in  that  part  of  the  territory  of  the 
immediate"  Benedictine  abbey  of  Stavelot-Malmedy  (founded  in  651)  which 
fbll  to  Prussia  in  1815.  The  W.  half  of  the  territory  belongs  to  Belgium. 
Kear  the  town  are  three  chalybeate  springs,  the  water  of  which  is  exported 
in  large  quantities. 

Railway  to  Colognb  (44  M.,  in  IV*-^  l^^s* ;  fwes  6  UJ?  6^ 
4  Uf  20,  2  ^  80  pf.;  express,  6  Uf  30,  4  Uf  70  pf.).    Few  lir 

o 


14    BouUl,  ESCHWEILER.  From  BrwaeU 

exhibit  such  varied  foims  of  lailway  engineering  as  that  between 
the  Belgian  frontier  and  Cologne.  On  leaving  the  station  of  Aix-la- 
Ghapelle  the  train  crosses  a  Viaduct  308  yds.  in  length,  and  passes 
the  castle  of  Frahkenberg  (to  the  left;  see  p.  12).  At  (iy4M.3 
Rothe  Erde  theMalmedy  line  diverges  to  the  S.  (see  p.  13).  100  M. 
Eilendorf.  The  train  then  passes  through  the  iVirmerTtinnei  (1/2  M.), 
traverses  the  Reichsbusch  wood,  and  stops  at  (103  M.)  Stolberg  Junc- 
tion^ near  which  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  villa,  excavated  in 
1880  (key  kept  at  the  station  refreshment-rooms).  A  short  branch- 
railway  and  an  electric  tramway  run  hence  to  Stolberg  f  Berliner  Ho  f; 
Mildejj  a  prosperous  town  with  14,300  inhabitants.  Stolberg  is  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing  districts  in 
Germany,  the  numerous  products  of  which  are  sent  to  every  part  of 
the  world.  For  the  foundation  of  its  prosperity  it  was  indebted  to 
French  Protestant  refugees,  who  established  brass- foundries  here 
in  the  17th  century.  The  old  chateau,  traditionally  said  to  have 
once  been  a  hunting-seat  of  Charlemagne,  has  been  rebuilt. 

The  principal  products  of  the  district  are  zinc,  lead,  and  silver  •,  there 
are  also  manufactories  of  pins,  needles,  mirrors,  glass,  chemicals,  etc., 
the  fuel  consumed  by  which  is  yielded  in  abundance  by  the  coal-mines 
of  the  Etehtoeiler  Pumpe  (near  the  railway)  and  others  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. There  is  probably  no  other  locality  in  Germany  where  so  many 
branches  of  industry  are  successfully  prosecuted  within  so  small  a  space. 

Branch-railways  run  from  Stolberg  to  several  busy  little  towns. 

The  train  now  traverses  a  picturesque  district ,  with  numerous 
coal-mines  and  foundries.  Near  Eschweiler  it  crosses  the  /nde, 
and  passes  through  a  tunnel. 

105  M.  Eschweiler  (Kaiserhof;  SchutzenhalU),  a  busy  and  rapidly 
growing  town  of  22,000  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  in  a  valley, 
with  a  castellated  hospital.  The  forges,  foundries,  puddling-works, 
and  factories  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  employ  3000  workmen. 
The  coal-mines  in  this  district  are  sometimes  1300  ft.  deep  and 
produce  excellent  coal. 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  near  Nothberg,  rises  a  ruined  castle  with 
four  towers,  and  still  farther  on,  also  to  the  left,  is  the  Rothger  Burg. 
Among  the  hills  to  the  right  are  several  villages,  including  Werth, 
the  supposed  birthplace  of  Johann  von  Worth  (d.  1651 ;  p.  47), 
and  Oressenich,  the  ancient  royal  residence  of  Craaciniacum^  near 
which  are  extensive  mines  of  cadmium,  iron,  and  lead-ore,  once 
worked  by  the  Romans,  as  proved  by  Roman  coins  found  in  them. 

110  M.  Langerwehe  (Schutzenhof),  a  village  with  1700  inhab., 
near  which  are  several  large  needle-manufactories. 

The  spurs  of  the  Eifel  are  seen  on  the  right.  At  the  base  of 
the  wooded  heights  of  the  Hochwald  on  the  right  lies  the  village  of 
MerodCf  I1/2  M.  from  Langerwehe  and  3  M.  from  Dftren,  with  an 
old  turreted  chateau,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  formerly  the  seat 
of  a  wealthy  family  of  Belgian  counts.   The  train  crosses  the  Roer. 

116  M.  Bfiren.  —  Hotels.  "Uommbb,  Eisenbahn-Str.  24,  B.  &  B.  from 
2Vf,  D   IV4-2,  pens.  5  Jl;  Schiller  (Rheiniseher  Ho/)^  Zehnthof-Str.  7 


to  Cologne.  BOER  VALLEY.  i.  Route,    15 

B.  2-2Vsi  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens.  6  Ji ;  EdLNBB  Hop,  Koln-Str.  21 1  Duci  Kaisbb, 
Kaiser-Platz  17,  R.  lVf-2V»,  B.  »/4  Jt. 

Durerhy  a  busy  town  of  27,100  inhab.,  with  manufactories  of 
cloth,  paper,  iron,  etc.,  is  situated  on  the  Boer  or  Rur  (pron.  Roor) 
in  a  fertile  plain.  The  most  conspicuous  objeot  in  the  town  is  the 
lofty  tower  of  the  church  of  Su  Anna,  To  the  right  of  the  station 
are  the  buildings  of  the  proYincial  Lunatic  and  Blind  Asylums, 
Adjacent  is  the  new  8t,  Joachim$~Kirche.  The  Rathhaua  contains  a 
collection  of  antiquities.  The  town  contains  Monuments  to  Emp, 
William  /.,  Bismarck,  and  Afoiffee,  all  by  J.  Uphues,  and  a  War 
Monument  by  Prof.  Frentzen.  In  the  Boer  Promenade  is  a  bronze 
bust  of  Emp.  William  II.,  by  Begas  (1897). 

The  Yalley  of  the  Boer  presents  some  very  pictureaqae  points  above 
Kreuzau  (Knipraths  Inn),  a  village  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Diiren  (narrow-gauge 
line  in  19  min.).  An  omnibns  plies  hence  twice  dailv  over  the  hills  to 
Hideggen,  bat  pedestrians  diverge  here  to  the  right  and  ascend  the  valley, 
which  gradually  contracts  and  is  bounded  by  lofty  sandstone  rocks,  to 
(V4  hr.)  Winden,  (»/«  hr.)  Unter-Maubach  (Strepp,  pens.  34  JOy  and  (V4  br.) 
Ober-Maubach.  We  then  turn  to  the  left  by  the  chapel,  pass  the  first  side- 
valley,  and  ascend,  opposite  the  Mausaul  rocks,  to  the  village  of  Bergstein, 
which  has  long  been  visible.  Before  reaching  the  wooded  summit  of  the 
Burgherg  (view-tower)  we  have  a  fine  survey  of  the  Beer  valley,  and  from 
the  top  we  obtain  a  superb  view  of  the  ruins  of  Nideggen.  We  then  descend 
into  the  valley  to  Zerkall^  and  again  ascend  to  (IV4  hr.)  Nideggen  (*Heiliger, 
B.  iV2-3,  D.  from  11/4,  pens.  iJ(;  Heergarten;  Seinen^  unpretending),  with 
well-preserved  town-walls,  situated  on  a  rock  rising  precipitously  from  the 
Boer,  and  crowned  with  the  conspicuous  ruins  of  a  castle  dating  from  1180, 
which  was  o&ce  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Counts  and  Dukes  of  Jiilich. 
The  keep,  with  its  Bomanesque  chapel,  is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  Ger- 
many ;  while  the  *PaIas'  (14th  eent.)  is  the  largest  hall  of  its  period  in  W. 
Germany,  next  to  the  Bathhaus  Hall  in  Aix-la-Chapelle.  —  Following 
the  valley  beyond  Nideggen,  the  traveller  next  reaches  (V«  hr.)  Abenden, 
{20  min.)  Blens,  and  (20  min.)  Hansen;  or  we  may  cross  the  river  at  Blens 
and  proceed  on  the  left  bank  via  Habertaul  to  the  picturesque  village 
of  Heimbach  (Po$i;  Scheid).  with  the  small  ruin  of  Hengebcieh.  The 
church  contains  a  carved  altar  of  the  16th  century.  From  Heimbach, 
Zulpich  (p.  203)  may  be  reached  by  diligence  in  3  hrs.  A  picturesque  walk, 
chiefly  through  wood,  leads  from  Heimbach  past  the  former  Trappist  con- 
vent of  Maria-Wald  and  viil  Wolfgarten  to  (2V2  hrs.)  GemUnd  (p.  203)  i  and 
another  (guide  needful  to  the  forester^s  house  of  PavUhof)  to  Rfshrberg  and 
the  fine  view-point  Am  Kreuz,  near  Einruhr  (3^/2  hrs. ;  inn).  The  road  from 
(j^mund  to  (ITVz  M.)  Uontjoie  (jp.  13)  leads  via  Einruhr  and  Simmerath. 

Fbom  D6BEN  TO  Nedss,  3OV2  M. ,  railway  in  IV4  hr. ;  stations  EUdorf, 
Bedburg^  Hafff-,  €frevenbroich,  Capellen-Wevelinghoven.    Neuss,  see  p.  56. 

From  Durbm  to  JtJLioH,  972  M.,  in  40  minutes.  —  Jiilich  or  Juliert  (Diss- 
mann;  Quack),  with  6400  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  ancient  duchy  of  that 
name,  has  belonged  to  Prussia  since  1814.  The  fortifications  were  dis- 
mantled in  1860.  Julich  is  now  also  connected  with  Aix-la-Ghapelle  (17Vs  M.  ; 
IV4  hr.)  by  a  direct  line  yiS^  Aldenhovm,  Mariagrube^  WUrselen,  and  Kaisertruh. 

From  Diiren  to  Efukirchen  and  Trivet^  see  p.  208. 

12172  M.  Buir.  —  129  M.  Horrem  lies  in  the  luxuriant  vale  of 
the  Erft,  which  abounds  with  seats  of  the  Rhenish  noblesse.  To  the 
right  are  the  chateaux  of  Frenz  An6.Hemmershach  or  Horremer  Burg. 

From  Horrem  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  (2V2  M.)  Ichen- 
<^/  (good  inn),  and  thence  either  via  the  old  convent  of  Kdnigtdorf  (nov 
a  farm)  to  the   station  of  Gross-Konigsdorf  (p.    16) ;    or  vi^  Baron   vr 
Oppenheim^s  ch&teau  of  8chlenderhdhn  to  (IV2  M.)  Quadrath  and  on  pa 
(IV2  M.)  Bergheim  (Hotel  Weidenbach),   a  pretty  little  town  on  the  En 


16   Route  2.  ROTTERDAM.  From  Rotterdam 

Narrow-gauge  railways  run  from  Horrem  to  OVa  M.)  JUt>lar  (p.  202), 
and  via  Bedburg  (p.  13)  to  (17  M.)  Ameln. 

The  Erftthal  is  quitted  by  the  Konigsdorf  tnnnel,  1  M.  long. 
To  the  left,  beyond  (132  M.)  Oross-Konigadorfy  in  the  distance, 
is  the  village  of  Brauweilery  with  an  ancient  Benedictine  Abbey, 
now  a  reformatory.  The  Abbey  Church,  an  imposing  late-Roman- 
esque edifice  with  three  towers,  rebuilt  in  the  13th  cent,  contains 
a  crypt  of  the  11th  cent,  and  some  interesting  Romanesque  sculp- 
tures. The  frescoes  on  the  vaulting  of  the  chapter-house  (scenes 
from  the  Epistle  to  the  Hebrews)  date  from  the  12th  century. 

As  Cologne  is  approached  the  line  traverses  a  fertile  plain, 
studded  with  detached  houses  and  factories.  The  hills  to  the  right 
are  spurs  of  the  Vorgebirge^  a  low  range  which  begins  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Rhine  between  Cologne  and  Bonn. 

135  M.  Lovenich,  —  139  M.  Ehrenfeldy  a  large  and  busy  manu- 
facturing suburb  of  Cologne. 

141  M.  Ck>logne,  see  R.  3. 

2.  From  Botterdam  to  Cologne. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  64. 

Railway  (1)  by  Utrecht,  Zevenaar,  Emmerich,  Oberhausen,  and 
Diisseldorf^  (2)  by  Utrecht,  Zevenaar,  Gleve,  and  Grefeld.  Expbbss  by 
both  lines  in  6-61/2  hrs.  (fares  12  florins  70  cents,  10  fl.,  6  fl.  40  c).  Examin- 
ation of  Inggage  at  the  Prussian  custom-house  at  Elten.  (The  Dutch  florin, 
or  guilder,  worth  1«.  8rf.,  is  divided  into  100  cents.) 

The  through-trains  from  Hoek  van  Holland  (p.  xv),  in  connection  with 
the  Harwich  steamers,  run  to  Cologne  in  6V2  ^ra.,  vi&  Rotterdam,  Dordrecht, 
Nymwegen,  Venlo,  Kaldenkirchen  (Prussian  custom-house  revision),  Crefeld 
(p.  56),  and  Neuet  (p.  66). 

Rotterdam  t.  —  Hotds.  *]Iaa8  Hotel,  near  the  steamboat-piers,  B. 
from  21/2,  D.  2V2fl-;  Victobia,  Willemsplein^  *Wbimab,  Spaansche  Eade ; 
•Letobaaf,  Weatplein;  Hotel  de  Fbancb,  Hoogstraat:  St.  Lucas,  Hoog- 
straat;  Coomans,  Hoofdsteg  12,  R.  &  B.  from  l»/4,  D.  1-1  V«  fl. 

Oab  per  drive  without  luggage,  1-2  pers.  60  c,  3-4  pers.  70  c;  per 
hr.  1  fl.  25  c. ;  to  or  from  any  of  the  railway-stations,  with  luggage,  Ifl. 
—  The  Rhenish  Rail.  Station  is  not  far  from  the  London  steamboat-piers. 
Omn.  to  or  from  the  hotels  25  c. 

Rotterdam,  with  320,000  inhab.,  the  second  commercial  town 
in  Holland,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Maas,  about  15  M. 
from  the  German  Ocean.  It  is  intersected  by  numerous  canals 
(grachten,  or  havens),  which  give  the  town  a  very  picturesque  ap- 
pearance ;  and  numerous  drawbridges  (ophaalhruggen)  afford  com- 
munication between  the  various  quarters  of  the  town. 

A  huge  dyke  or  embankment  runs  through  the  centre  of  the 
town,  protecting  the  lower  quarters  (Binnenstad)  from  inundation 
during  high  tide.  The  Hoogstraat,  or  high  street,  is  built  on  this 
dyke ;  and  the  finest  part  of  the  town ,  the  Buitenstad ,  is  situated 
between  this  street  and  the  Maas. 


t  For  a  fuller  description  of  Dutch  towns,  see  Baedeker't  Belgium  and 
Holland.  ^  . 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


to  Cologne,  UTRECHT.  2.  Routt.   17 

About  5000  sea-going  vessels  annually  enter  and  quit  the  port, 
and  the  traffic  with  the  Upper  Rhine  by  means  of  barges,  towed  by 
powerful  tug-steamers,  is  very  considerable.  Rotterdam  also  contains 
a  number  of  manufactories  and  distilleries. 

The  traveller's  leisure  had  better  be  devoted  to  a  walk  on  the 
busy  quay  (Boompjes) ;  to  the  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrence 
(Oroote  Kerk) ,  a  brick  building  dating  from  1477 ,  and  containing 
the  monuments  of  Admiral  de  Witt  and  other  celebrated  Dutchmen ; 
and  to  Boymans*  Museum^  a  very  fair  collection  of  pictures,  open 
daily  (except  Mon,)  10-6  (in  winter  10-3).  Those  who  have  a  day  at 
their  disposal  are  recommended  to  spend  it  at  The  Hague  (by  railway 
in  3/4  hr. ;  see  Baedeker's  Belgium  ar^d  Holland). 

The  district  traversed  by  the  railway  is  perfectly  flat,  lying  con- 
siderably below  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  is  excluded  by  means  of 
carefully-constructed  dykes  and  embankments.  Canals,  pasture-land , 
and  occasional  windmills  are  the  principal  features  of  the  scenery. 
The  first  station  of  importance  is  — 

121/2  M.  Oondsy  or  Ter  Oouw  (*De  Zalm^  in  the  market-place), 
on  the  Tssel,  with  22,000  inhab.,  the  staple  commodities  of  which 
are  bricks,  clay-pipes,  and  an  inferior  kind  of  cheese.  The  principal 
church  (Oroote  or  Jans  Kerk)  contains  some  flue  old  stained  glass. 

38  M.  TJtreoht  (^Pays  Bas;  *Kasteel  van  Antwerpen;  H6t.  de 
V Europe;  BelUvue;  H6t.  de  la  Station,  at  the  station),  the  'Oude 
Trecht'  or  old  ford,  the  Trajectum  ad  Rhenum  of  the  Romans, 
is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  Holland  (pop.  100,000).  It 
belonged  at  one  time  to  Lorraine ,  then  to  the  German  Empire, 
and  was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  emperors.  Here  in  1579 
the  union  of  the  seven  provinces  Holland,  Zeeland,  Utrecht, 
Guelders ,  Over-Yssel ,  Friesland ,  and  Groningen  ^s  effected,  and 
William  I.  of  Orange  was  created  stadtholder.  In  1672  Louis  XIV. 
took  possession  of  the  town  and  levied  an  enormous  contribution. 
The  well-known  Peace  of  Utrecht,  which  ended  the  Spanish  War  of 
Succession,  was  concluded  here  in  1713.  —  The  Rhine  divides  here 
into  two  arms :  the  Old  Rhine,  falling  into  the  German  Ocean  near 
Katwyk,  and  the  Vecht,  falling  into  the  Zuider  Zee. 

Utrecht  was  celebrated  at  a  very  early  period  for  its  fine 
churches ,  the  most  interesting  of  which  is  the  ^Cathedral,  founded 
in  720,  and  dating  in  its  present  form  from  1254-67.  The  Uni- 
versity,  founded  in  1636,  is  attended  by  about  750  students. 

Beyond  Utrecht  the  line  crosses  the  canal  (Vaartsche  Rhyn)  which 
unites  the  town  with  the  Lek.  Pleasant  retrospect  of  Utrecht.  To 
the  right  and  left  are  four  intrenchments  (lunettes)  ,  now  disused. 
At  (45  M.)  Zeist  (near  which  is  Driehergen)  there  is  a  Moravian 
colony;  then  stations  Maarsbergen,  and  Veenendaal,  with  numeror 
apiaries.  The  line  intersects  the  extensive  moor  of  the  Veluu 
which  extends  as  far  as  the  Zuider  Zee.    6972  M.  Wolfheten, 

Basobxek's  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  2*       jl^ 


18    Route  2.  WESEL.  From  Rotterdam 

73  M.  Arnhem  (^Zorij  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  nearest 
the  rail.  stat. ;  *Bellevuej  V4  M.  beyond  the  Zon,  prettily  situated ; 
*Pay8-BaSj  in  the  Groote  Markt ;  Zwynshoofd,  very  fair ;  De  Pauw^ 
near  the  station,  second-class),  with  57,250  inhah.,  long  the  seat  of 
the  Dukes  of  Guelders ,  is  still  the  capital  of  that  province.  Al- 
though a  good  specimen  of  a  clean  Dutch  town,  it  offers  little  to  detain 
the  traveller.  The  Groote  Kerk  contains  monuments  of  the  Dukes 
of  Guelders.  The  Town  Hall  derives  its  local  appellation  of  Dui- 
velshuis  (^devil's  house*)  from  the  grotesque  figures  which  adorn  it. 
The  environs  of  Arnheim  far  surpass  those  of  any  other  Dutch  town 
in  attraction.  Railway  to  Zutphen  and  Salzhergen,  see  Baedeker's 
Northern  Germany. 

82  M.  Zevenaxir  is  the  Dutch,  87  M.  Elten  the  Prussian  frontier 
station.  Hence,  crossing  the  Rhine,  to  Gleve  and  Cologne,  see  R.  4. 

The  line  by  Dusseldorf  to  Cologne  remains  on  the  right  bank. 

93  M.  Emmerich  (Hdtel  Royal,  R.  2-3,  B.  8/4,  D.  2V2  J^ ;  Hof 
von  Holland,  R.  from  2,  D.  2  Jf ;  H6tel  Bahnhof;  Rheinhofy  R. 
2-3  Jf)  is  a  clean  Dutch-looking  town  with  10,600  inhabitants. 
At  the  upper  end  rises  the  Gothic  spire  of  the  Aldegundis-Kirche,  at 
the  lower  is  the  Mwnater-Kirche,  in  the  Romanesque  style  of  the  11th 
and  12th  centuries.  The  tower  of  the  latter  is  of  the  15th  cent., 
while  below  the  choir  is  a  crypt  of  the  11th  century.  The  carved 
choir-stalls  date  from  1486.  Among  the  treasures  of  the  sacristy  is 
the  *"Willibrordi  Arche',  a  golden  casket  of  the  8th  century. 

97  M.  Praest.  From  (100  M.)  Empel  a  narrow-gauge  railway 
runs  to  (3  M.)  Rees^  a  small  town  on  the  Rhine.  103  M.  Haldem; 
106  M.  Mehrhoog. 

113  M.  Wesel  (Dombusch,  R.  2-3,  B.  3/^,  D.  2  Uf,  very  fair; 
Escherhaus,  with  a  frequented  garden ;  Germania;  Kaiserhof,  all  near 
the  station ;  Giesen),  a  town  with  22,500  inhab.,  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Rhine  and  Lippe  and  formerly  strongly  fortified.  The 
Berliner  Thor^  a  relic  of  the  fortifications,  erected  in  1718-22  and 
restored  in  1892,  is  adorned  with  sculptures  and  inscriptions.  The 
handsome  Rathhaus,  lately  restored,  and  embellished  with  seven 
modern  statues  on  the  facade,  dates  from  1396.  Opposite  stands  a 
war-monument  for  1870-71.  *8t.  Willibrord's  Church,  in  the  market- 
place, is  the  finest  Gothic  edifice  on  the  Lower  Rhine  after  the  cath- 
edral at  Xanten  (p.  58).  It  was  begun  in  1424  and  completed  as  far  as 
the  choir  goes  in  1526.  In  1882-96  the  nave  was  added  and  the  whole 
restored.  The  ornamentation  of  the  gables  deserves  attention.  The 
slender  iron  fleche  is  new.  The  interesting  interior  (sacristan,  Grosse 
Markt  144)  is  adorned  with  partly  modern  and  partly  ancient  ceiling- 
paintings,  while  the  vaulting  of  the  choir  is  a  miracle  of  the  stone- 
mason^s  art.  A  marble  tablet  records  that  Peregrine  Bertie,  Lord 
Willoughby  d'Eresby,  son  of  Richard  Bertie  and  Catherine,  Duchess 
of  Suffolk,  was  born  here  in  1555.  The  exiles  were  Protestants,  who 


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to  Cologne.  DUISBURG.  2.  Route.    19 

had  fled  from  the  persecutions  of  Queen  Mary,  and  were  permitted 
by  the  magistrates  of  Wesel  to  take  up  their  quarters  in  the  ohurch, 
then  unoccupied.  —  The  Lower  Rhenish  Museum,  in  theGold-Str., 
contains  antiquities,  weapons,  and  domestic  utensils  (adm.  50  c.l 
The  Mathena-Kirche,  begun  in  1429,  has  an  iron  tower  added  in  1882. 
—  In  the  Exercier^Platt,  V2  M.  from  the  station,  is  a  Monument  on 
the  spot  where  11  Prussian  officers  of  Von  SchiWs  Corps,  captured 
by  the  French  in  Stralsund,  were  shot  in  1809. 

The  town  is  joined  by  a  bridge-of-boats  with  the  island  of  B^derieh 
and  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine.  The  river  is  also  spanned  here  by  the 
large  railway-bridge  of  the  Geldem-Venlo  and  Ooch-Boxtel  lines  (see  Bae- 
deker^s  Belffiwn  and  Holland^.  —  A  local  steamer  plies  four  times  daily  in 
summer  from  Wesel  to  Xanten  (p.  68)  in  Vs  hr.  (retnm-fare  1  J()-  —  Rail- 
way to  £a2<en»,  see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany ;  to  Winterswyk  vii  Boeholt, 
see  Saedeker^s  Belgium  and  Holland. 

The  train  crosses  theLippe  and  traverses  aflat  and  bleak  district. 
121  M.  Dinslaken  lies  IV2  M.  from  the  Rhine,  on  which,  3  M. 
higher  up,  is  the  old  town  of  Of  soy,  formerly  fortified.  The  Roman 
Catholic  church  of  Orsoy  contains  an  important  early-Flemish  carved 
altar,  with  painted  wings  (ca.  1480-90).  —  Beyond  (128  M.)  Sterk- 
rode,  with  an  extensive  foundry,  we  cross  the  Emseher. 

131  M.  Oberhausen  (*Rail.  Restaurant;  *Hof  von  Holland, 
R.  from  2,  B.  1,  D.2  JK;  Central  HoUl;  ReichskroneJ,  a  town  of 
recent  origin,  with  42,200  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Cologne- 
Minden,  Mulheim-Essen,  Ruhrort,  and  Altenessen-Dortmund  lines. 

Fsou  Obbbhausen  to  Rdhbo&t  (SVa  M.),  branch-line  via  Meiderich,  with 
importantpron-works,  in  V4  hr.  (70,  65,  35  pf.).  —  Ruhrort  (Cleve  ffotel^  very 
fair;  Pretusischer  Ho/;  RheinUcher  Hof)^  with  12,400  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Rhine 
at  the  influx  of  the  Ruhr^  and  is  mainly  engaged  in  the  exportation  of  coal 
and  importation  of  ore  for  the  Rhenish- Westphalian  iron  -  industry.  Its 
harbour  and  docks,  covering  400  acres  (125  acres  water-surface)  and  about 
to  be  extended,  form  one  of  the  largest  river-ports  in  Europe  and  are  sur- 
rounded with  coal -magazines,  connected  by  branch-lines  with  the  main 
railways.  The  ship-building  yards  of  Ruhrort  are  of  considerable  extent. 
At  the  harbour  are  monuments  to  the  Emp.  WilUam  J.  (PI.  9)  and  to  Ludtoig 
vonVincke  (d.  1844),  the  president  of  the  province  of  Westphalia,  who  materi- 
ally improved  the  natrigation  of  the  Ruhr.  Opposite  the  railway-station 
are  the  blast  and  puddliag  furnaces  of  the  Phoenix  Co.  —  Branch-lines  to 
(7  H.)  Sterkrade  (see  above)  and  (7  M.)  Millheim  (p.  62).  —  Steamboat  to 
Hovpiberg.,  and  raUw  y  thence  to  Uerdingen  and  Crefeld^  see  p.  62. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Ruhr. 

136  M.  Dnisburg.  —  Hotels.  ^EubopXischeb  Hof,  Burg-Platz  3, 
with  wine-room^  ^Beblinbb  Hof,  R.  3-5,  B.  1,  D.  1V2-3  Jl;  Sghapbb,  these 
two  close  to  the  rail,  station :  Kaisbbhof,  E5nig-Str.;  Fbinz  Rbgbnt,  Uni- 
versitats-Str.  1,  very  fair,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  1V4-2V*  UT. 

Cab  to  the  town  V4-I  Jl.  —  Tramway  to  RvJirort  every  1/4  hr.  —  Steam 
Tramways  to  the  foot  of  the  Kaieerherg  (p.  20),  to  Kaisers werth  (p.  25),  and 
to  Dusseldorf  (p.  20). 

Duishurg,  a  very  ancient  town,  situated  near  the  Rhine  and  the 
Ruhr,  is  connected  with  both  riyers  by  means  of  a  canal.  It  is  now 
an  important  manufacturing  town,  with  92,700  inhab.,  and  one  of  the 
chief  dep6ts  of  the  Ruhr  coal  traffic.  The  Salvator-Kirche  (PL  16),  of 
the  15th  cent.,  restored  in  1850,  contains  an  epitaph  to  the  memory 

2*        - 


20    BouU2,  DUSSELDORF.  From  Rotterdam 

of  the  geographer  Oerhard  Mercator  (d.  1594),  to  whom  a  monnment 
was  erected  in  1878  in  the  neighbouring  Burg-Platz.  Fine  view  from 
the  KaUerberg  (Monning's  Inn),  on  the  way  to  Miilheim,  1^4  M.  from 
the  station,  witii  a  monument  to  Emp.  William  I.  (PL  18).  —  Rail- 
way to  Crefeld  and  Essen,  see  p.  62. 

Near  (140  M.)  Orosaehbaum  is  the  chateau  otHeltorf,  the  property 
of  Count  Spee,  adorned  with  frescoes  by  masters  of  the  DQsseldorf 
school.  —  From  (144  M.)  Calcum  a  diligence  runs  4  times  daily  to 
(21/2  M.)  KaUerswerth  (p.  25). 

150  M.  Dusseldcrf.  —  Bailway  BUtiont.  Central  Station  iffaupt- 
bahnhof,  PL  B,  6;  *Beataurant ,  D.  2-2Vs  Jf),  for  aU  trains  of  the  Bight> 
Rhenish  lines  and  for  those  of  the  left  bank  running  vit  Neoss.  The 
Derendorf  Station  (PI.  E,  2, 8),  to  the  N.,  and  the  Bilk  Station  (PL  B,  8),  to 
the  S.,  are  stopped  at  by  the  ordinary  trains  only.  —  There  is  also  a 
station  at  Obereassel,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Bhine  (PL  A,  4;  p.  56). 

Hotels.  '^BBSinBNBACHBB  HoF  (PL  a ;  C,  6),  AU^e-Str.  84a,  with  lift  and 
restaurant,  B.  31/2-6,  B.  iy4,  D.  2V2-3V2,  omn.  »/4  Jt ;  'Pabk  Hotbl  (PL  0 ;  C,  4), 
prettily  situated  in  the  Comelius-Platz,  with  lift,  B.  from  4,  B.  li/s,  d^j.  8, 
D.  6,  omn.  1  Jt;  *HdTBL  Botal  (PL  f ;  D,  6),  Bismarck-Str.  103,  near  the 
Central  Bailway  Station,  with  wine- restaurant  and  lift,  B.  21/2-6,  B.  1, 
D.  2-8  U^ ;  *HdTBL  Hbck  (PL  e :  G,  5),  Blumen-Str.  16,  with  a  garden  and 
glased  veranda,  B.  21/2-5,  B.  1,  D.  8,  pens,  from  7  Jt ;  *BdMi8CHBB  Kaiseb 
(PL  z\  B,  6),  Benrather-Str.  3,  commercial,  B.  21/2,  B.  V«i  D.  21/2,  pens.  5-6  Jt; 
EuBOPBAN  Hotel  (PL  b ;  B,^.  Friedrich-Str.  1,  with  restaurant,  well  spoken 
of,  B.  21/2-3,  B.  1,  D.  21/2  ur.  —  Hansa  Hotel  (PLm;  0,6),  Wilhelms- 
Platz  18,  near  the  Central  Station,  B.  21/2-6,  B.  1,  D.  2V2-afi/2  UT,  new; 
MoNOPOL  (PL  h;  D,  5),  Eaiser-Wilhelm-Str.  2,  with  lift  and  restaurant, 
B.  21/2-6,  B.  1,  D.  11/2-8,  pens,  from  6  Jt;  Mebkcb,  Schadow-Str.  40;  Abtus- 
HOF  (PL  p ;  C,  6),  Aders-Str.,  B.  8-4,  D.  from  I1/2  Jl ;  Ddsseldorpbb  Hop, 
Kaiser -Wilhelm-Str.  2;  Eaisebhop,  Kaiser-Wilhelm-Str.  ;Pbinz  Albxandeb, 
Alexander -Platz,  B.  2-8,  B.  »A,  D.  I1/2-2  UT.  —  The  foUowing  have  beer- 
restaurants  :  *HdTEL  Bbistol  (PL  g ;  D,  6),  Wilhelms-Platz  12  with  lift,  B. 
2V2-41/S,  B.  1,  D.  from  i}/tJt;  Gbbmania  (PL  n;  D,  6),  Bismarck-Str.  101, 
by  the  Central  Station  (PL  B,  6),  B.  21/2-71/2,  B.  I1/4,  D.  (in  the  restaurant)  2-3  Jf  ; 
Bahnhop-H6tbl  (PL  1  •,  D,  6),  opposite  the  Bailway  Station,  B.  21/4-5,  B.  1, 
D.  ii/2-3  ur.  —  Chbistliches  Hospiz,  Graf-Adolf-Str.  59  (PL  C,  D,  6).  — 
Pensions :  Cfreeven^  Schumann-Str.  2,  pens.  4-10  Jt ;  Schvts,  Stein-Str.  85 : 
KrUsemanny  Feld-Str.  22;  -4.  Jf«fer,  Victoria-Str.  34  (4-7  Jf)\  BirJter^feld, 
Grafenberger  Chauss^e  67  (4-6  UT);  Fibers- Gildemai/er,  Hohenzollern-Str.  28. 
—  Augmta-Haiu  (for  ladies).  Stefanien-Str.  14. 

Beataurants.  Wine.  At  the  above-named  Hotel* ;  *ThUmaga,  Elber- 
felder-Str.  11  (PL  C,  4,  6),  D.  from  QJt;  *Walther.  Allde-Str.  24,  D.  2-8  UT; 
*Reh*tocky  Grtln-Str.  4,  D.Z^ijM;  Bach,  Harold-Str.  17 ;  Seulen,  Berger-Str.  35; 
*Zum  Alten  Zoll,  Andreas-Str.  2 ;  DUssehSehlduchen  (p.  22),  Schlossufer  1.  — 
Bbeb.  At  the  above-named  Hotels;  TonJuxile  Restaurant^  Schadow-Str.;  LSwe, 
Schadow-Platz  81,  D.  I1/4-IV4UI;  Hansa  Restaur.^  at  the  hotel  of  that  name 
(see  above);  Rothes  Haus,  Josephinen-Str.  8,  with  garden.  —  Wine  Booma. 
Faecenda,  Eonigs-Allde  7,  Stadt  Venediff^  Graf  Adolf-Str.  41  (lUlian  wines 
at  these);  Continental  Bodega.  K6mgs-All6e  26. 

Oafds.  *Comelius  Cafi,  Eonigs-All^e  9 ;  *Bierhoff^  Breite-Str.  4  Oargely 
frequented  by  ladies);  Branscheidt^  Eck-Str.  1 ;  Arab  Cafi,  Graf-Adolf-Str.  44 ; 
Ananasberg^  Eiskdlerberg^  both  in  the  Hof-Garten  (p.  24):  Cafi  Alter  Bahnhof, 
Graf-Adolf-Platz.  —  Confectioner.    *Weitz,  K6nigs-All^e  89. 

Placet  of  Amusement.  *Ton?ialle  (PL  D,  4),  i^-ith  a  garden  and  concert- 
rooms  (music  several  times  a  week,  60  pf.;  symphony-concert  on  Thurs. 
A  Sat.);  Zoological  Garden  (PL  F,  1,  2),  see  p.  25;  *Flora  Garden  (PL  B,  8; 
p.  24),  with  palm-house  (concert  twice  weeUj  ;50  pf.) ;  Volks-  Qarten  (PL  £,  8). 

Theatres.  Stadt-Theater  (PL  C,  4;  p.  23),  All^e-Str.;  performances  be- 
tween Sept.  15th  and  AprU  16th.  —  Apollo  Theatre  (PL  2;  C,  6),  Konigs- 


y  Google 


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to  Cologne,  DtJrSSELDORF.  2,  RouU.    21 

All^e,  variety  performances  and  operettas;  ReicTuTuaUeny  Hohe-Str.  83,  variety 
performances. 

Baths.  TotDn  Baths  (swimming.  Tarkish,  etc.),  entered  either  from  the 
Grfln-Str.  or  the  Bahn-Str.  (PI.  C,  4).  —  Siver  Baths ^  see  PI.  B,  3  and  A,  3. 

Gabs.  Per  drive  of  2  kil.  (IV4  H.),  1-2  persons  60,  3-4  pers.  80  pf.  ^  each 
kil.  additional  30  or  40  pf.  extra.  By  time:  Vshr-i  1-2  pers.  iV2,  3-4  pers. 
2  JT;  Ihr.,  21/4  or  3ur;lV2lir.,  SJl,  SUT  OOpf.;  2  hrs.,  3 UT 76,  4 UT  80 pf.  — 
There  are  also  Taxameter  Cabs  and  Taxameter  Motor  CabL  with  a  special  tariff. 

Electrio  Tramways  ply  to  the  Rhine  Bridge  (p.  22),  the  Flora  (p.  20), 
the  Cemetery^  the  Zoological  Garden  (p.  25),  Orafenberg  (p.  26),  etc. ;  comp. 
the  Plan.  —  Electric  Bailwaya  run  to  Vohwinkel  (p.  63),  vi4  Benrafh  (p.  25) 
and  Hilden;  to  (14  M.)  every  1/2  ^^')  Crefeld  (p.  66),  Ti&  Obereassel  (p.  56), 
Heerdt  (p.  56),  BUdench  (p.  58),  and  Osteraih  (p.  56);  to  Neuss  (p.  56),  via 
Obereassel  and  Heerdt;  and  to  Dttisbwg  (p.  i9),  visl  Kaiserstoerfh  (p.  26). 

Local  Bteamera  ply  3-4  times  daily  to  Kaiserswerth  (p.  25)  and  Uerdingen 
(p.  62). 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  6),  at  the  corner  of  the  Casernen-Str.  andHarold-Str. 

Telegraph  Office  (PI.  C,  5),  Konigs-All^e  29. 

Picture  Gallery,  8chulte*s,  All^e-8tr.  42  (adm.  50  pf.). 

British  Consul  for  Westphalia  and  the  Bhenish  Provinces:  Thos,  R. 
Mulvaney^  Esq.,  Derendorfer-Str.  1.  —  American  Oonsul:  Peter  Lieber,  Esq. 

Ei^Ush  Ohnroh  Service  at  8  and  11.15  a.m.,  in  the  smaller  Protestant 
Church,  Berger-Strasse.    Chaplain,  Rev.  W.  F.  Connor^  Brehm-Str.  8. 

DusscWor/ (88  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  district  of  that  name,  with 
213,000  inhah.,  lies  on  the  right  hank  of  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of 
the  Dusselbach.  With  the  exception  of  some  of  the  oldest  streets,  it 
is  a  pleasant  and  well-huilt  town.  First  mentioned  in  a  docament 
of  1159,  it  was  chosen  at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent,  as  a  resi- 
dence by  the  Dukes  of  Berg,  and  on  their  becoming  extinct  in  1609 
it  continued  to  be  the  residence  of  the  Princes  Palatine.  It  reached 
the  acme  of  its  prosperity  under  the  splendour-loving  Elector  John 
William  (1690-1716),  who  invited  numerous  artists  to  his  court  and 
established  the  picture-gallery.  On  his  death  the  Princes  Palatine 
transferred  their  seat  to  Mannheim.  In  1767  Elector  Charles  Theodore 
founded  the  Vusseldorf  Academy  of  Arty  which  was  reorganised  in 
1819  and  became  one  of  the  chief  centres  of  German  art  (comp.  p.  22). 
Recently  Dusseldoif  has  become  an  Important  industrial  and  com- 
mercial town,  with  an  extensive  new  harbour  (to  the  S.W.  of 
PI.  A,  6,  7). 

In  the  heart  of  the  older  part  of  the  town,  with  its  narrow  and 
irregular  streets,  once  stood  the  old  Electoral  Palace,  which  Was 
burned  down  in  1872  and  afterwards  removed  except  the  restored 
tower.  In  the  Burg-Platz  (PL  B ,  4)  stands  the  Provincial  Library  y  and 
behind  this  is  the  Art- Industrial  School,  an  edifice  in  the  French 
Renaissance  style,  built  by  Westhofen  in  1882. 

A  little  to  the  S.  is  the  Mabkbt  Plaob  (PI.  B,  5),  with  the 
Bathhans,  or  Town  Eally  built  by  Heinrich  Tuswnann  in  1570-73 
(the  W.  wing  in  the  French  Renaissance  style  added  in  1885).  The 
council-room  (adm.  Sun.  &  Wed.,  11-12.30)  is  embellished  |with 
modern  historical  frescoes.  In  front  of  the  Rathhaus  rises  an 
equestrian  Statue  of  Elector  John  WiWtam,  in  bronze,  over  lifesize, 
by  Orupello  (1711),   erected  according  to  the  inscription  by  the 


22    JRoute  2.  DUSSELDORF.  From  Rotterdam 

citizens,  but  in  reality  by  the  elector  himself.  —  In  the  neigh- 
bouring Bolker-Strasse  (No.  63)  Heinrich  HeinCj  the  poet,  was  bom 
in  1799  (d.  1856).  -—  Beside  the  MaximUians-Pfarrkirche  (PI.  B,  5) 
rises  a  Column  of  8t  Mary,  by  J.  Reiss. 

The  Church  of  St.  Lambert  (PL  B,  4),  a  Gothic  edifice  of  the 
end  of  the  14th  cent. ,  with  a  tower  partly  Romanesque,  contains  at 
the  back  of  the  high-altar  the  Monument  in  marble  of  William  V. 
(d.  1592)  and  John  William  III.  (d.  1609),  the  last  two  dukes  of 
Cleve  and  Berg,  and  of  other  members  of  their  family,  erected  in  1629. 
There  are  also  a  late-Gothic  Tabernacle  and  an  *Antependium',  on 
a  gold  ground,  representing  the  patrons  of  the  church,  painted 
and  presented  by  A.  Achenbaeh.  —  An  inscription  in  the  Ratinger- 
Strasse  (No.  45)  indicates  the  house  in  which  Carl  Immermann 
(1796-1840),  the  author,  died. 

The  Church  of  St.  Andrew  (PI.  3 ;  B,  4),  formerly  the  church 
of  the  Court  and  of  the  Jesuits,  completed  in  1629  by  Deodat  del 
Monte,  a  pupil  of  Rubens,  and  connected  with  the  old  Jesuit  Col- 
lege which  is  now  occupied  by  the  government-offices,  contains  the 
tombs  of  Count  Palatine  Wolfgang  William  (d.  1653)  and  Elector 
John  William  (see  p.  21),  in  the  choir.  Altar-pieces  by  Deger, 
Hiibner,  and  W.  Schadow. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  old  town,  between  the  harbour  (p.  21) 
and  the  Rhine  Bridge,  extends  the  Bhine  Promenade ,  completed 
in  1902,  and  bearing  different  names  in  its  different  sections 
(Berger-Ufer,  Bathhaus-Ufer,  Schloss-Ufer).  The  Dussel-Schlosschen 
(p.  20)  and  other  buildings  are  situated  here. 

The  Bhine  Bridge  (PL  A,  B  ,  4;  toU  6pf.),  built  from  the 
designs  of  Prof.  Krohn  in  1896-98,  spans  the  stream  in  two  arches, 
197  yds.  in  width  and  75  ft.  aboYO  the  water-level.  The  gateways 
at  each  end  were  designed  by  Prof.  Schill ;  the  central  pier  bears  a 
gigantic  lion,  the  cognizance  of  Diisseldorf . 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  old  town  rises  the  Academy  of  Art 
(PL  B,  4),  an  imposing  Renaissance  edifice  by  Eiffart,  com- 
pleted in  1881  (comp.  p.  21).  The  principal  facade,  520  ft.  long, 
is  turned  towards  the  Hof- Garten.  It  contains  several  studios  and 
class-rooms,  a  collection  of  plaster-casts,  etc.  On  the  groundflour 
are  the  remains  of  the  once  famous  Galleby  of  Old  Mastbbs,  the 
greater  part  of  which  was  removed  to  Munich  in  1805  (open  free  on 
Sun.,  12-1,  and  Wed.,  11-1 ;  at  other  times  50pf.,  more  than  1  pers. 
25  pf.  each).  The  most  valuable  paintings  are  an  Assumption  by 
Rubens  (ca.  1620)  and  Madonnas  by  Cima  da  Conegliano  and  Qiov, 
Bellini.  It  also  contains  a  large  collection  of  drawings  of  every  school 
(14,000  in  number)  and  engravings,  and  the  Ramboux  collection  of 
water-colours.  The  Aula,  on  the  second  floor,  is  adorned  with  good 
frescoes  (the  Course  of  Human  Life)  by  Peter  Janssen  (b.  1844), 
Director  of  the  Academy  since  1895.  .    r^^^^i^ 

Digitized  by  V^OOQ  LC 


to  Cologne.  DUSSELDORF.  2.  Route.    23. 

Adjacent,  Renter-Caserne  la,  is  the  Histoeical  Museum  (P].B,4), 
a  collection  of  Roman  and  Frankish  antiquities,  coins,  portraits,  and 
views  and  plans  of  Diisseldorf  (open  free,  Sun.  &  Wed.  11-1 ;  list  of 
the  pictures  30  pf). 

The  old  town  is  separated  from  the  Modbbn  Quabtees  on  the 
E.  side  hy  the  hroad  Allee-Strasse  (PI.  B,  C,  4,  5),  in  which  rise 
bronze  statues  of  Emp.  WUUam  /.,  Bismarck j  and  Moltke.  —  On  the 
light  is  the  — 

Kunstlialle  (PI.  4}  B,4),  erected  in  1881  in  the  French  Renais- 
sance style  by  Oiese  and  enlarged  in  1902,  with  a  large  mosaic  on  the 
facade  (Truth  as  the  foundation  of  Art,  after  Fr.  Rosber,  by  SaWiati). 
It  contains  an  Exhibition  of  Modem  Paintings  (on  sale)  as  well  as  the 
^Municipal  Oallery  of  modem  Diisseldorf  masters.  On  the  staircase- 
walls  are  frescoes  by  0.  Gehrts,  representing  the  History  of  Art.  Adm. 
daily  9-6,  50  pf.  (free  on  Wed.  after  1  p.  m.);  catalogue  30  pf. 

Landscapes  by  A.  Achenbaeh'^  0.  Achenbach^  Funeral  at  Palestrina  and 
three  Italian  landscapes^  C.  Begas^  Exposure  of  Moses-,  Ed.  Bendemcmn^ 
W.  Camphansen,  the  painter ^  Betoer,  Beheading  of  John  the  Baptist; 
L.  Bokehnann.  Funeral  in  N.  Friesland  \  F.  Briltt ,  Condemned ;  W.  Catnp- 
hausen^  Frederick  the  Great;  Coi^nelius^  The  Wise  and  Foolish  Virgins, 
one  of  the  earliest  works,  and  one  of  the  few  oil-paintings  executed  by 
this  master,  begun  in  18i3,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  Thoryaldsen; 
DeikeTy  Savage  dogs;  E.  DUeker^  Ooast-acene;  F.  J.  FagerUn^  The  rejected 
suitor  (a  Dutch  interior) ;  E.  von  Od>hardt ,  The  young  man  of  great  posses- 
sions; J.  P.  Hasenclevert  Wine- tasting,  the  master's  last  picture;  Th.  Hilde- 
brandty  Wappers,  the  Antwerp  painter ;  J.  HUbner^  Portrait  of  Prof.  Keller ; 

E.  HUnten^  Episode  at  the  Battle  of  Gravelotte;  P.  Jamten,  The  monk 
Walther  Dodde  and  the  peasants  of  Berg  before  joining  in  the  battle  of 
Worringen ;  R.  Jordan ,  The  first  child ;  A.  Kampf,  Frederick  the  Great  and 
his  generals;  L.  Knaus^  Card-players  and  a  genre-piece;  F.  von  Lenbaeh^ 
Prince  Bismarck ;  C.  F.  Lessing^  Landscape  with  military  scene ;  Kl.  Meyer^ 
Merry  musicians ;  G.  Miilleft  Annunciation ;  L.  Munthe,  Two  winter-scenes ; 

F.  Neuhcnuy  Helfenstein;  J.  Niesten^  Portrait  of  Schirmer;  A.  Jformann^ 
XorwegiaD  Qord;  Th.  RocJwll^  Stragglers;  J.  RSting^  Portraits  of  W.  Schadow 
and  C.  F.  Lessing;  J.  W.  Bchirmer,  Italian  landscape,  Dutch  landscape. 
Twenty-six  Biblical  scenes ;  A.  8chrddtei\  Don  Quixote  before  Dulcinea  of 
Toboso ;  A.  Seely  Church  of  St.  Mark,  Venice ;  G.  Sohn^  Tasso  and  the  two 
Leonoras;  A.  Tidtmand,  Service  of  the  Haugianer  in  Xorway;  B.  Fancier, 
'Little  Obstinate'. 

The  Hoseum  of  Art  ft  Industry  (PL  B,  4),  a  building  in  the 
Butch  Renaissance  style  by  0.  Hecker,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Friedrichs-Platz,  was  completed  in  1896.  It  is  open  daily,  except 
Mon.,  10-4,  on  Sun.  &  holidays  10-1  (adm.  50  pf.). 

The  collections  include  textile  fabrics,  lace,  embroidery,  bindings, 
pottery,  porcelain,  works  in  iron,  and  wood-carvings.  It  also  contains  a 
good  Japanese  and  Indian  collection  (2nd  floor).  The  series  of  rooms  fitted 
up  in  the  old-German,  Flemish,  Oriental,  and  other  styles  is  interesting. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  AlMe-Strasse  is  the  handsome  Theatre 
{^Stadt-Theater;  PI.  0,  4),  buUt  in  1876  by  Qiese,  with  statues  of 
Mendelssohn  and  Immermann  (by  CLBuscher;  1901)  on  the  fagade,  — 
Behind  the  theatre  is  the  War  Memorial,  designed  by  Prof.  Hilgers 
and  erected  in  1892  in  memory  of  the  campaigns  of  1864,  1866, 
and  1870-71,   The  inscription  is  by  H.  Sudermann,  tha  dramatist. 

:«d  by  LjOOg, 


24    Route  2.  DOSSELDORF.  From  RotUrdam 

To  the  S.  of  this  point,  in  the  Cornelius-Platz,  liges  the  bronze 
Statue  of  Cornelius  (PI.  0, 4),  the  eminent  painter  (b.  at  Diissel- 
dorf  in  1783,  d.  1867),  by  Donndorf,  erected  in  1879.  At  the  sides 
of  the  handsome  pedestal  are  allegorical  figures  of  Poetry  and  Reli- 
gion. —  The  house  in  which  Cornelius  was  born,  Kurze-Strasse  15, 
is  marked  by  a  memorial  slab. 

Farther  on  is  the  Schadow-Platz  (Pi.  C,  4,  5),  which  is  em 
bellished  with  a  colossal  Bust  of  W.  Schadow  (b.  1789,  d.  1862),  in 
bronze,  designed  by  Wittig.  —  Mendelssohn  lived  at  No.  30, 
Schadow-Str.,  in  1833-35,  while  he  was  municipal  director  of  music 
at  Dusseldorf.  —  The  hall  of  the  Beal-Gymnasiam,  or  Technical 
School  (PI.  0,  D,  5),  Kloster-Str.  7,  is  adorned  with  an  allegorical 
frieze  by  Ed,  Bendemannj  representing  Art,  Science,  Commerce,  and 
Industry  (admission  50  pf.).  —  The  Church  of  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception (PI.  D,  5),  in  the  Ost-Str.,  a  Gothic  building  by  Becker,  was 
erected  in  1896. 

In  the  KOnigs-Platz  (PI.  C,  5)  is  the  Protestant  Church  of 
8t.  John,  in  the  Romanesque  style,  erected  in  1876-81  from  plans 
by  Kyllmann  and  Heyden.  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Platz  is  the 
Jnstiz-Oeb&nde,  or  court-house,  the  assize-room  in  which  contains 
Schadow's  last  great  oil-painting  (Paradise,  Hell,  and  Purgatory). 

From  the  Cornelius-Platz  the  Konigs-All6b  (PI.  C,  5,  6),  embel- 
lished with  a  group  of  Tritons  by  Fr.  Courhillkr  (1902),  leads  to 
the  park-grounds  at  the  Schwanenspiegel  and  Kaiserteich.  Here  stands 
the  FrovinBial-St&ndehaiis,  or  House  of  the  Rhenish  Estates  (PI.  B, 
6,  7),  built  in  1879  in  the  Italian  style  by  Raschdorff.  The  bronze 
group  in  front  of  it,  by  Tiishaus  and  Janssen  (1897),  represents  the 
Rhine  and  its  Tributaries.  —  The  new  late-Gothic  Church  of  St,  Peter 
(PI.  B,  7)  is  by  Pickel.  —  In  the  Flora-Strasse,  which  leads  to  the 
Flora  Garden  (p.  20),  is  the  Friedens-Kirche,  which  contains  frescoes 
by  Ed.  von  Gebhardt  —  In  the  former  village  of  BUky  to  the  W., 
now  a  part  of  Btisseldorf,  are  the  Observatory  and  the  Romanesque 
church  of  8t  Martin  (PI.  A,  7,  8),  the  oldest  part  of  which  dates 
from  the  11th  century. 

Adjoining  the  AlMe-Str.  (p.  22)  and  the  Cornelius-Platz  is  the 
Hof-Garten  (PI.  B-D,  3,  4;  caftf-restaurant,  p.  20),  which  was  laid 
out  in  1769,  but  was  extended  and  altered  with  artistic  taste  after 
the  levelling  of  the  fortifications  in  1804-13.  The  well-kept  grounds 
extend  down  to  the  Rhine  on  the  W.,  and  on  the  £.  to  the  Jdgerhof 
(PI.  D,  4),  once  a  hunting-lodge  of  Elector  Charles  Theodore  (1760). 
The  stables  in  the  Pempelforter-Str.  are  tastefully  adorned  with 
carved  wood-work. 

The  former  Pempelfort  Garden  (PI.  D,  4),  once  the  residence  of 
the  philosopher  Friedrich  Heinrioh  Jacob!  (d.  1819),  and  visited  by 
Goethe,  Herder,  Wieland,  and  other  celebrities  of  that  period,  now 
belongs  to  the  Halkaiten  club  of  artists  (founded  in  1848 ;  intro- 
duction necessary).  —  The  new  Church  of  8t,  Roehus  (PI.  D,  3)  ig 


to  Cologne.  MClHEIM  AM  RHEIN.  2.  BouU,    25 

i  Romanesque  structure  by  Kleesattel.  —  In  the  Prinz-Georg- 
Strasse  is  the  new  building  of  the  Government  Archives  (PI.  D,  2). 
The  island  of  Golzheim,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Hof-Garten,  was  in 
1902  the  site  of  an  Industrial  Exhibition  for  the  Rhine  and  West- 
plialia,  with  which  a  National  Exhibition  was  combined.  The 
Palace  of  Art  (PL  B,  3),  built  for  the  latter  in  the  S.  German 
baroque  style,  with  a  handsome  facade  145  yds.  in  length  and  a 
lofty  dome,  will  be  henceforth  used  for  the  Diisseldorf  Ait  Exhibi- 
tion, held  annually. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  about  IVs  H.  from  the  Cornelius-Platz.  and 
reached  by  tramway,  lies  the  Zoological  G-arden  (PI.  P,  1,  2 }  adm  50  pf. ; 
band  on  Wed.  and  Sat.  afternoons),  tastefully  laid  oat.  —  Adjoining  the 
Zoological  Garden  on  the  E.  is  the  Otiaselthal  Asylum  for  homeless 
children,  formerly  a  Trappist  monastery,  presented  by  the  government  to 
Count  von  der  Recke  in  1819,  and  fitted  up  by  him  for  its  present  purpose. 

The  ancient  town  of  Kaaserswerih  (Rheiniseher  So/)^  with  2500  inbab., 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  6  M.  from  Diisseldorf  and  2Vs  H.  from  Cal- 
cum  (p.  20),  is  the  seat  of  a  training  school  for  Protestant  Sisters  of  Charity, 
an  extensive  institution,  with  branches  in  many  di£ferent  parts  of  Germany, 
founded  by  the  benevolent  pastor  Fliedner  (d.  1864)  in  1836.  The  old  early- 
Romanesque  Church  of  Kaiserswerth,  a  huge  colamnar  basilica  with  tran- 
septs and  four  towers,  dates  from  the  middle  of  the  11th  century.  The 
choir  is  an  elegant  transition  addition  of  about  1250,  while  the  W.  towers 
were  rebuilt  in  1874.  The  church  contains  an  admirably  executed  '*Rel%quary 
(1264),  in  which  the  bones  of  St.  SuitbertuSy  a  native  of  Ireland  who  first 
preached  the  Gospel  here  in  710,  are  preserved.  From  the  Ktfniff^/cUzy  or 
Palace,  of  Kaiserswerth,  the  young  Emp.  Henry  IV.  was  carried  ofi  in  1062 
in  a  vessel  belonging  to  his  austere  guardian  Archbishop  Anno.  The  Emp. 
Frederick  I.  rebuilt  the  castle  in  1174-84,  and  the  present  extensive  re- 
mains, which  were  folly  exposed  by  excavations  in  1899-1901,  belong  ex- 
clusively to  that  period. 

The  Grafenberger  Chaussee  (PI.  F,  8,  4^  tramway  from  the  Central 
Station)  leads  to  the£.  from  Diisseldorf  to  (2^/2  M.)  Orafenberg  (Restaurant* 
JdgerhauM,  Eaardt ,  and  HirKhberg)^  with  the  reservoir  of  the  water-works 
and  the  provincial  Lunatic  Asylum.  —  To  the  N.  is  the  much  firequented 
Btadt-Wald,  on  the  W.  verge  of  which  is  the  vegetarian  health  establish- 
ment of  Waldtiheim  (pens.  6-9  Jt). 


Railway  to  Goloonb.  To  the  left  rises  Schloss  Eller.  Beyond 
(156  M.)  Benrath  (Hesse),  among  the  trees  to  the  right,  stands  a 
handsome  royal  chateau  erected  in  1756-60  by  Elector  Palatine 
Charles  Theodore.  Beyond  (161 M.)  Langenfeld  the  train  crosses  the 
Wupper^  passes  the  chateau  ot  Reuschenberg  (left),  and  at  (I65V2M.") 
Kiippersteg  crosses  the  Dhun,  The  Rhine  is  approached  near  Schloss 
Stammheim^  a  chliteau  of  Count  Fiirstenherg. 

ill  M.  Hftlheim  am  Shein  (Hdtel  Magdeburg;  Briieseler  Eof), 
a  thriving  manufacturing  town  with  45,000  inhab.,  which  owes  its 
prosperity  to  the  hundreds  of  Protestants  who  migrated  hither  from 
Cologne  in  the  early  years  of  the  17th  century.  Handsome  modern 
Gothic  church  near  the  station,  by  Zwirner.  The  equestrian  statue 
of  Emp.  William  I.,  by  Buscher,  was  unveiled  in  1898. 

Feom  MOlhkim  to  Immekeppkl,  18«/2  M.,  railway  in  IV4-IV2  hr.  — -  2V2  M. 
DellbrHek,  —  5V2  M.  Bergiaoh-Gladbach  (Bergischer  Ho/),  a  straggling  town 


26  Routes.  COLOGNE.  Practicdl 

with  11,400  inhabitants.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  StunderthaliMhe,  a  popular 
resort.  The  Cistercian  abbey  of  Altenberg  (p.  62)  lies  6  M.  to  the  ».  'of 
Gladbach  (carriage  there  and  back  8-9  Jl\  and  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Bw»eheid 
(p.  62).  —  11  M,  Bensberg  (ScMm  Amsicht;  Rheinischer  Hof)^  a  place  of 
10,400  inhab.,  possesses  a  chateau  built  by  Elector  Palatine  John  William 
in  1705,  now  a  military  school.  In  the  woods,  about  1  M.  to  the  S.,  is  the 
Sdtel-Peruion  Bokenburg  (pens.  4-6  jH).  —  The  remaining  stations  ixt^Fors- 
hach^  Rdsrath,  Hoffnungtihal^  IhUereschbach,  and  Jmmekeppel. 
From  Mulheim  to  JElberfeld  and  Barmen,  see  B.  7. 

Below  Mulheim  the  train  intersects  the  fortifications  of  Deuix 
(p.  55)  and  crosses  the  railway-bridge  to  (175  M.)  Cologne, 

Stbamboat  from  Diisseldorf  to  Cologne  (5  hrs.,  in  the  reyerse  direction 
2V2  ^rs.)  tedious,  although  several  places  of  historical  interest  are  passed. 

3.  Cologne. 

Eailway  Stations.  1.  Centbal  Station  (PI.  F,  4:  'Restaurant,  D.  firom 
2  UK),  in  the  Trankgasse,  opposite  the  cathedral  (see  p.  38),  for  all  the 
trains  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine  and  for  most  of  the  trains  on  the 
right  bank.  —  2.  South  Station  (PI.  0,  2  ^  p.  81).  for  slow  trains  and  a  few 
express  trains.  —  3.  Wkst  Station  (PI.  F,  1;  p.  81),  for  slow  trains  only.  — 
4.  Right  Rhbnish  Station  at  Deutz  (PI.  E,  6),  for  a  few  of  the  Ordinary 
trains.  —  Porter  into  the  town:  for  packages  not  exceeding  11  lbs.,  30  pf.; 
not  exceeding  55 lbs.,  50pf.i  not  exceeding  100 lbs.,  75 pf.  CabSy  seep.  28. 

Steamboat  Cfcuays.  The  fast  steamers  of  the  Cologne  ds  Diisseldorf 
Steamthip  Go.  (p.  xvi)  start  from  the  Trankgassen-Werft  (PI.  F,  3),  the 
other  steamers  from  the  Leystapel  (PI.  D,  5),  respectively  2-3  min.  and 
10-12  min.  from  the  cathedral  and  the  central  station.  The  quay  of  the 
Dutch  steamers  (p.  xvi)  is  at  the  Frankenwerft  (PI.  B,  5)^  4  min.  from  the 
central  station.  —  Porter  into  the  town  or  to  the  railway-station:  for 
hand-bag  10  pf.,  for  trunk  up  to  55  lbs.  50  pf.,  up  to  110  lbs.  80  pf.,  up  to 
65  lbs.  iJfOOpt 

Hotels.  *H6tbl  du  Nobd  (PI.  a ;  E,  6),  Franken-Platz  4-6,  near  the  iron 
bridge,  with  railway-ticket,  post,  and  telegraph  office,  R.  3-7,  B.  IV2, 
D.  4,  omn.  y^Jt;  •Hotel  Monopole  (PI.  m;  E,  4),  Wallrafs-Platz  5,  with 
caf^  and  restaurant,  R.  3-5,  B.  11/4,  D.  iJl;  'Hotbl  Disch  (PI.  b^  E,  4), 
Brucken-Str.  19,  R.  from  3  J(;  •Hotel  dd  Dome  (PI.  i;  E,  4),  near  the 
cathedral,  R.  3-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  3Va,  omn.  1/2  ^;  *K6lnee  Hop  (Hdt.  de 
Cologne;  PI.  k,  F  4),  Balmhof-Str.  5,  opposite  the  central  station,  with 
terrace,  R.  21/2-6,  B.  I75,  D.  (in  restaurant)  3,  pens,  from  8  Jf;  *H6tki. 
Ebnst  (PI.  e;  F,  4),  Trankgasse  3,  near  the  cathedral.  All  these  are  of 
the  first  class,  with  lift,  baths,  electric  light,  and  hot-air  heating.  —  The 
following  are  also  first-class,  but  less  pretentious:  •Qrossbb  Kubf6bst 
(PI.  0  5  E,  4).  Domkloster  2,  R.  3-5,  B.  11/4,  D.  from  31/2,  pens.  9,  omn.  1/2  Jf; 
•EwiGK  Lahpe  (PI.  g;  F,  4),  Komodien-Str.  2-8,  with  caf€  and  restaurant} 
VioTOEiA  (PI.  d;  D,  B,  5),  Heumarkt  46-50,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  7-10  JT, 
omn.  60  pf.,  good  cuisine;  ^Continental  (PI.  fi  E,  4),  Domhof  18,  R.  21/2-5, 
B.  1-11/4,  D.  3,  pens,  from  71/2  Jf. 

The  following  are  still  less  pretentious :  'St.  Paul  (PI.  s  \  F,  4),  at 
the  corner  of  the  Burgmauer  and  Unter  Fettenhennen,  with  good  view  of 
the  cathedral,  R.  2-3V«,  B.  1,  D.  2Va,  pens.  51/2-8  Jl;  •H5tel  Mittel- 
HAUSER  (PI.  li  F,  4),  Marzellen-Str.  5,  with  lift,  electric  light,  and  hot-air 
heating,  R.  2V2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2%Jl;  Pala8t-H6tel  (PI.  ps  E,  4),  Am  Hof  24, 
with  Uft,  electric  light,  and  hot-air  heating,  R.  from  2  Ji;  Hainzeb  Hof 
(PI.  c;  E,  3),  Glockengasse  14-20,  R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V«,  pens,  from  7i/a  UT, 
commercisJi  Reichshof,  Am  Hof  18  (PI.  E,  4),  with  lift,  electric  light, 
hot-air  heating,  and  beer -restaurant,  R.  21/4-21/2,  B.  »/4i  !>•  IV^-^V*  ^t* 
•Bbloischbb  Hop  (PI.  y;  F,  4),  Komodien-Str.  9.  with  lift,  electric  light, 
ot-air  heating,  and  restaurant,  R.  2-3,  B.iJi;  Bbblinbb  Hop,  Marzellen- 


y  Google 


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NoUtu  COLOGNE.  8.  Route,    27 

Str.  19  (PI.  F,  4),  with  lift,  electric  light,  hot-air  heating,  and  restaurant, 
R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  iVt-S^/s  •«,  well  spoken  of;  Kaisbb  Fbisdbioh  (PL  h; 

C,  2),  Salier-Bing  45,  with  lift,  electric  light,  hot-air  heating,  and  restaurant, 
frequented  by  offieers,  B.  2-5,  B.  1,  D.  lV4-2Vs  ^;  Kajssb  Wilhblm 
(PI.  w;  G,  2),  Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring  43,  well  situated,  with  electric  light 
and  beer-restaurant,  R.  2Vr6,  B.  V^-l,  D-  IVa-S  •#;  Minebva  (PI.  vj  F,  5), 
Johannis-Str.  24,  with  beer-restaurant;  Union,  Dominikaner  2  (PI.  F,  4), 
R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2Vs  Jl ;  HStbl  Tils,  Andreas-Kloster  (PI.  F,  4),  with  electric 
light,  R.  2-8V2,  B.  1,  D.  2V«  Jt ;  Hop  von  Holland,  Hofergasse  11,  to  the  8. 
of  the  central  railway  station,  R.  2-31/2,  B.  1  Jt.  —  RHsiN-iidTEL,  LeysUpel 
(PI.  D,  5),  R.  lVr4,  B.  1,  D.  from  IV4  J(i  Batbischeb  Hop,  next  to  the 
Museum  (PI-  E,  4) ;  FbInmscheb  Hop,  Kom6dien-Str.  32  (PI.  F,  4),  with 
restaurant,  R.  &  B.  from  2ys,  I>.  from  IV2  -if,  weU  spoken  of;  H6t£L 
MftXBOPOLE,  Am  Hof  48,  with  wine-room:  Hotel  Landsbebo  (PI.  n;  F,  4), 
Marzellen-Str.  1;  HdTSL  Stbuno,  Johannis-Str.  16  (PI. F, 5),  near  the  railway; 
BdTEL  Vandbbstein-Bellen,  Heumarkt  20  (PI.  D,  E,  6),  with  wine-room. 
R.  2V4,  B.  V2,  D.  IV*  Jti  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  H^feb,  Drususgasse  11 
(PL  E,  4),  with  electric  Ught  and  hot-air  heating,  R.  IV2-8,  D.  IV4  Jt; 
Hotel  Langen,  Salomonsgasse  13  (PL  E,4),  with  wine-restaurant.  commerciiJ ; 
Eaisebhop  (PL  u;E,  4),  Salomonsgasse  11,  with  hot-air  heating,  and  beer- 
restaurant,  R.  2-2V2,  B.  1,  D.  from  IV^*^;  Metzbb  Hop,  Salomonsgasse  18; 
Deutbches  Haub,  Laurenz-PIatz  (PL  E,  4) ;  HStel  Lowenbbat},  Hoch-Str.  SO, 
with  beer-restaurant,  R.  and  B.  from  2Vs  Jf;  Hotel  Obladen,  St.  Agatha  37 
(PL  D,  4),  with  electric  light,  R.  lVr2,  B.  "A,  !>•  2  J(.  —  Chbistliches 
Hospiz  (PL  q ;  Q,  5),  Johannis-Str.  77,  R.  1V2~2V2  -^^  B.  60  pf.,  D.  I-IV2, 
pens.  3-6  Ulf.  —  Pensions:  Af4lller^  FamUien-Permon^  Albertus-Str.  37;  Bauer y  E  ^ 
Richard  Wagner-Str.  35;  HeJbacK^  Boon-Str.  40. 

Bestanrants.  *Q.  Bettger  A  Co.,  Kleine  Budengasse  8  and  10  (PL  E,  4)) 
with  oyster-saloon;  ^Neues  StadU?ieater-Res(aurant,  D.  from  2  UK;  *  Monopoly 
"Hdta  du  Ddmey  ^KOlner  Hof.  *Gro*.ier  KurfUnt,  see  p.  26;  Oiirzenich  (p.  44), 

D.  from  IV2  Jt;  "F.  Roue.,  Hohenzollern-Rine  44.  These  all  of  the  first 
class  and  visited  by  ladies.  —  Wine.  Petert,  Severin-Str.  187  (PL  B,  0,  4), 
good  Rhine  wine ;  Eurige  Lampe,  see  p.  26 ;  "Beckmann,  Am  Hof  38  (PL  £,  4), 
D.  from  1  .J  20  pf.;  AltdeuUthe  Weinkneipe^  Am  Hof  14;  Lcmgen,  see  above; 
J.  J.  Schott,  Am  Hof;  Edtel  Vanderstein-Btllm  (see  above),  Moselle  wine; 
j^akaimus,  Ludwig-Str.  5-7;  flilifete,  Hohenstaufen-Ring  21 ;  Wirtz,  Limburger- 
Str.  (PL  E,  2) ;  Bodega,  Hohe-Str.  127  (Spanish  wines).  —  Beer.  "Fischer, 
in  the  arcade  off  the  Hobe-Str.  (PL  £,  4) ;  "Bierstall,  at  the  Belgischer  Hof 
(see  above),  D.  1V«-1V««^»  *Cafi  BortuHa,  see  below;  Stapelhaus  (PL  E,  5; 
p.  47).  at  the  Frankenwerf t,  with  garden-terrace  (military  band) ;  Kaiterhof, 
see  aoove;  Ptchoit^&u.  Burghofchen  and  Hof-Str.  38;  Ldwei^du,  Hohe- 
Str.  90,  D.  I-IV2  UV;  *Kranka,  Martin-Str.  24  (Pilsen  beer);  H6t.  Kaiter 
WilJtehn,  see  above.  —  Cologne  Beer:  PUffgrn,  Friesen-Str. ;  Zum  Bart, 
Auf  dem  Brand ;  ScTweckenskammer,  Johannis-Str. ;  ^r  ^eipann,  Breite 
Strasse. 

Oafea.  *Monopol,  see  p.  26 ;  *  Bauer,  Hoch-Str.  69,  comer  of  the  Perlen- 
pfuhl ;  *Cafi  de  r Europe,  at  the  H6tel  Ewige  Lampe,  see  p.  26;  Wimer  Cafi, 
Briicken-Str.  1  (PL  E,  4);  Fischer,  in  the  Passage,  next  the  Hohe-Str. 
(see  above) ;  *Cafi  Borussia,  Hohenzollem-Ring  66  (PL  E,  2).  —  Confectioners. 
*Seichard,  Hoch-Str.  154;  ^'Kaiser,  Breite-Str.  43;  *Eigel,  Schildergasse  36 
(PL  E,  4,  8);  *Euer,  Hoch-Str.  53. 

Places  of  Recreation.  Zoological  Garden,  with  frequented  'Restaurant, 
see  p.  54.  Adm.  1  Jl,  on  Sundays  50  pf. ;  concerts  in  summer  on  Tues.  & 
Frid.  in  the  evening,  on  other  days  in  the  afternoon  (in  winter  on  Sun., 
Wed.,  and  Sat.  afternoons  only).  Steamers,  see  p.  29.  —  Flora  Garden, 
see  p.  65.  Admission  50  pf.  Aquarium  25  pf.  Restaurant ;  concerts  on  Sun. 
and  Wed.,  and  oftener  in  summer ;  lawn  tennis  courts.  Steamers,  see  p.  29. 
—  Kur/Hrsten- Garten,  near  the  Zoological  Garden,  on  the  Rhine,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Frohngasse,  beside  the  quay  of  the  Miilheim  steamers  (p.  29); 
band  in  the  afternoon.  —  Stadt-Garten  (PL  F,  1;  p.  53),  with  good  re- 
staurant. —  VolkS' Garten  (PL  A,  3,  4;  p.  63),  near  the  Salier-Ring,  with 
pretty  grounds,  concerts  in  summer,  and  a  restaurant.  —  Marienburg,  re- 


28    Route  3. 


COLOGNE. 


Practical 


1 

2 

3 

4 

UTpf. 

UTpf. 

UTpf. 

UTpf. 

-  75 
1.  25 

1  - 
1.  25 

1.  25 
1.  75 

1.  50 
1.  75 

1  - 
-  50 

1  - 
-  50 

1.  50 
-  75 

1.  50 
-  75 

stanrant  with  pretty  groands  (p.  68)  *,  adjacent  on  the  Rhine,  the  AUeburger 
MilhU^  commanding  a  fine  view.  —  Stadtteald^  in  Lindenthal,  see  p.  65.  — 
Racecourse^  see  p.  ^  (meetings  in  April,  May,  Sept.,  and  Oct.). 

Theatres.  Neuet  Stadt-TJuaier  (PI.  D,  2;  p.  53),  Hahsburger  Ring,  for 
operas,  dramas,  and  ballets  (Sept.  Ist-May  Slst);  Altet  Stadt-Theater  (PI.  E,  3; 
p.  i8),  Glockengasae,  for  comedies  and  operettas  (Sept.  Ist- April  80th);  Re- 
ndent-Theatar  (PI.  F,  2;  p.  53),  Bismarck-Str.,  modem  dramas,  farces,  and 
operettas;  Summer  Theatre  in  the  Flora  (see  p.  27);  Reiehehallen  -  Theater 
(PI.  £,  3),  Gertruden-Str.  10,  variety  performances  in  winter,  operettas  and 
^Kdlner  Hanneschen'  in  summer;  Hcala  Theatre^  Herzog-Str.  9;  Apolld 
Theatre^  Schildergasse,  these  two  variety  theatres. 

Mnsio.  The  Qilrzenich  Concerts  (p.  44;  seats  in  the  body  of  the  hall 
6  •<#,  in  the  gallery  3  Ulf),  twelve  in  number,  which  take  place  annually 
in  winter,  have  attained  a  European  celebrity.  —  Two  institutions  which 
have  earned  a  high  reputation  are  the  Comervatorium  of  Uu&tc  (PI.  B ,  3), 
Wolf-Str.  3,  founded  in  1851,  and  the  Mdnner-Oesangvereiny  or  Men's  Vocal 
Society  (p.  48). 

Festivals.  *Camivai.  On  Nov.  11th  and  weekly  after  Jan.  Ist  the  three 

chief  carnival-societies  hold  burlesque  meetings.  A  ^Procession  takes  place 

on  the  Mon.  before  Shrove  Tues. ;  and  on  Shrove  Tues.  there  is  a  masked 

ball  in  the  Oiirzenich  Hall  (p.  45 ;  early  application  for  tickets  necessary). 

Oab  Tariff. 

A.  Per  Drive.  Persons  x 

Drive  within  Cologne  and  Deutz,  as  far  as  the 

new  ramparts  (bridge-toll  36,  return  44  pf., 

extra) 

Zoological  and  Flora  Oardens  and  Racecourse 
B.  Bp  Time. 

For  Vt  br 

Each  additional  V4  br 

For  a  trunk  or  heavy  package  25  pf. ;  small  articles  free.  —  Double 
fares  from  11  p.m.  to  7  a.m.  (in  summer  6  a.m.).  —  For  drives  to  the 
suburbs  50  c.  additional  is  paid  if  the  cab  be  not  used  in  returning. 

Taxameter  Oabs  (some  of  them  motor-cabs).  Drive  of  800  metres  (ca. 
V«  M.),  1-2  pers.  60  pf.,  each  400  m.  extra  10  pf. ;  drive  of  600  m.  for  3-4  pers. 
(1-4  pers.  outside  the  municipal  district)  60  pf.,  each  300  m.  extra  10  c; 
at  night  400  m.  for  1-4  pers.  50  c,  each  200  m.  more  10  pf.  —  Waiting, 
10  pf.  every  4  minutes.  —  Luegage  imder  22 lbs.  free;  22-55 lbs.  25  pf. ; 
each  addit.  55  lbs.  or  fraction  25  pf. 

Electric  Tramways  (fare  lO-lo  pf.).  The  following  are  the  chief  lines 
for  tourists:  1.  (Ufer-Bahn).  From  the  Zoological  Garden  (p.  54),  vi&  the 
Kaiser-Friedrich-Ufer  (PI.  H,  F,  6, 6),  Leystapel  (PI.  D,  6),  and  Agrippina-Ufer 
(PI.  A,  6),  to  Marientmrg  (p.  68).  -  2.  (Bund-Bahn).  From  the  TrarOigaeee 
(PI.  F,  5;  near  the  cathedral  and  central  station)  vift  Heumarkt  (PI.  E,  D,  5), 
Barbarossa-Platz  (PI.  C,  2),  Rudolfs-Platz  (PI.  E,  2),  Kaiser-Wilhelm-Rlng 
(Pi.  F,  2),  and  Oereonsdriesch  (PI.  F,  3)  back  to  the  Trankgaue.  —  3.  (Innen- 
Bahn).  From  the  Ubier-Ring  (PI.  A,  6),  via  Bayen-Strasse  (PI.  B,  C,  6), 
Joseph-Strasse,  Im  Martinsfeld  (PI.  C,  3),  Neumarkt  (PI.  D,  E,  3),  Auf  dem 
Berlich  (PI.  E,  3),  Klingelpiits  (PI.  F,  G,  3),  and  Hansa-Ring  to  the  Deutscher 
Ring  (PI.  G,  H.  5).  —  4.  (Quer-Bahn).  From  the  Volks-Oarten  (PI.  A,  3)  via  the 
Salier-Bing,  Weidenbach  (PI.  C,  3),  Aposteln-Kloster  (PI.  D,  E,  2).  Breite-Str., 
the  Museum  (PI.  E,  4).  Unterfettenhennen  (PI.  F,  4),  Eigelstein - Thor 
(PI.  G,  4) ,  and  Keusser-Str.  (PI.  H,  4) ,  to  the  Ractcowse  (p.  65) ,  returning 
by  the  same  route  with  a  slight  deviation  in  the  middle  of  it.  —  5.  (Ring- 
Bahn).  From  the  Ubier-Ring  (PI.  A,  5),  vii  Rudolfs-PIatz  (PI.  E,  2),  Hansa-Ring 
fPl.  G,  H,  3,  4),  and  Riehler-Strasse  (PI.  H,  6),  to  the  Zoological  Garden 
(p.  54).  —  6.  From  Marienburg  (p.  68;  vi&  Chlodwigs-Platz  (PL  A,  4).  Severin- 
Strasse  (PL  B,  C,  4),  Heumarkt  (PI.  D,  E,  5),  Trankgasse  (cathedral  station), 
KomSdien-Strasse  (PI.  F,  4),  and  Friesen-Platz  (PI.  F,  2),  to  Ehrenfeld 
(p.  16).  _  7.  From  the  Neumarkt  (PL  D,  E,  3)  via  Rudolfs-Platz  (PI.  E,  2) 
to  Undenthcd  (Stadtwald,  p.  65).  —  8.  From  the  Neumarkt  via  Rudolfs- 
''latz  and  Melaten  (Cemetery,  p.  55)  to  Mimgersdorf,  ^dbyGoOQ 


NoUs.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.   29 

Stettin  Truawftyg.  1.  From  the  Schaafen-Str.  (PI.  D,  2),  via  Lindenthal 
and  FreckM,  to  Bmzelrath  and  Blateheim.  —  2.  From  the  Barbatossa-Plats 
(PI.  G,  2)  yia  BrUhl  (p.  80),  to  J^onn  (^Vorgebirgshahn' ^  comp.  p.  80). 

Loeal  Steamars  ply  frequently  between  Cologne  and  MUlheim  (p,  25 
10  and  5  pf.),  starting  from  the  bridge-of-boats  (PI.  D,  £,  6),  and  touching 
at  the  Trankgasse  Wharf  (PL  F,  5) ,  and  near  the  Zoological  and  Flora 
gardens  (pp.  54,  66^  15  pf.);  also  on  summer-afternoons  from  the  Holzwerft 
(PL  D,  5)  to  Marienbufg  (p.  65;  20  pf.,  there  and  back  35  pf.).  —  Ferry  to 
DtiU  (PI.  D,  5,  6),  5  pf.  and  8  pf. 

Baths.  The  Hohenstaufen-Bad^  in  the  Hohenstaufen-Bing  (PL  D,  2),  is 
excellently  fitted  up;  large  swimming-baths  for  ladies  and  gentlemen. 
Siegetit  Schildergasse  72  (also  Russian  baths,  etc.).  —  Baths  in  the  Rhine, 
by  the  bridge-of-boats  (also  warm  baths);  Sehiefer^  in  Deutz,  near  the 
bridge -of -boats,  with  swimming-baths  and  accommodation  for  ladies; 
MiUtdr-Schwimmanstalty  in  Deutz,  between  the  two  Rhine  bridges. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offtee  (Havpi-Fottamt;  PI.  F,  4;  p.  52),  in  the 
Dominikaner-Str.    Numerous  branch-offices. 

Eau  de  Cologne.  This  celebrated  perfume  is  said  to  have  been  in- 
vented by  /.  M.  Farina  of  Domodossola  in  1700,  while  another  tradition 
asserts  that  it  was  first  brought  to  Germany  in  1690  by  Favl  de  Feminit, 
The  claim  of  the  firms  manufacturing  it  to  the  name  of  Farina  is  some- 
times very  indirect.  The  oldest  firm  is  Johann  Maria  Farina^  opposite 
the  Jiilichs-Platz  (Obenmarspforten  28).  Gase  containing  six  bottles  of  the 
ordinary  medium  sise,  71/8^1. 

Exhibition  of  Paintings  of  the  Kunii-Verein.  at  the  Konigin  Augusta 
Halle  (p.  42),  and  at  Ed.  Schulte't,  Richartz-Str.  16  (PL  E,  4;  adm.  50  pf.).  — 
Among  the  numerous  Private  Oollections  may  be  mentioned  those  of  Baron 
AJbrn-t  von  Oppenhiem^  Eerr  aehnfUgen^  and  Herr  C.  A.  Niessen  (Roman  anti- 
quities), which  are  generally  shown  to  lovers  of  art  on  previous  application. 

ITnited  States  Consul:  Mr.  Chas.  E.  Barnes^  HohenzoUem-Ring  12.  — 
British  Consul:  Berr  C.  A.  yietnn,  Domhof  6  (also  foreign  banker). 

English  Church  Saryioe  in  the  Chapel  in  the  Hdtel  du  Nord  Grounds, 
Bischofsgarten-Str.  3.  Hours  of  Service,  varying  according  to  notice,  at  8.30, 
11,  and  6,  in  winter  and  summer.  Chaplain,  Rev.  Eldred  Morgan^  Domldoster  1. 

English  Physicians:  Dr.  Halh  Rohrergasse  32;  Dr.  Prior ^  Eaiser- 
Wilhelm-Ring  18.  —  American  Dentists :  H.  C.  Merrill  A  John  W.  Oale^ 
HohensoUem-Ring  79;  Dr.  Wm.  FeUton,  Gereon-Str.  34;  Dr.  Jot.  Mei'ckent^ 
Hohensollem-Ring  2.  —  Chemists :  0.  Contzen  (Dom-Apotheke),  Ck>mddien- 
Str.  1;  S.  Wrede,  Wallrafs-Platz  1  (both  speak  English). 

Tourist  Agents:  Thomas  Cook  &  Son^  Hdl^^u  Ddme  (p^  QSjj^aze  A  Sont^ 
Domkloster  1  (both  also  foreign  bankers);  C.  A.  Niesten  (see  above;  General-  ^ 
Agent  of  the  S.E.  A  Chatham  Railway).  . 

Colleotions  and  objects  of  Interest. 
*€athedralj  see  p.  32. 

OUy  Archives  (p.  51),  Mon.-Frid.  10-1  and  5-7,  Sun.  10-1 ;  gratis.  ^ 

City  Library  (p.  51),  Mon  -Frid.  10-1  and  4-8,  Sat.  10-1. 
EthnograpTticcd  Collection^  Joests  (p.  62),  daily  9-5,  adm.  50  pf.,   Sun.  free. 
Flora.,  see  p.  27. 

GUrtenieh  (p.  44),  open  all  day;  1-2  pers.  50  pf.  each,  a  party  40  pf.  each. 
Industrial  Art  Library  (p.  54),  week-days  10-12  and  7-10;  free. 
Museum^  Archiepiscopal  (p.  39) ,  week-days  9-6  (winter  104) ,   adm.  50  pf.. 

Sun.  A  holidavfi  10-2,  adm   30  pf. 
Museum,  HUtoriedi  (p.  53) ,  daily  9-5  (Oct.-March  104) ,  adm.  free  on  Sun. 

4  Wed.,  other  days  50  pf.;  closed  on  Sun.  1-2.30  p.m.,  on  Mon.  before 

noon,  and  on  Jan.  1st,  ^Carnival  Monday'  (p.  28),  Orood  Friday,  Easter 

Sunday,  Whitsunday,  and  Christmas  Day. 
*Museum  of  Industrial  Art  (p.  54),  open  a?  the  Historical  Museum;  gratis. 
Museum  of  Natural  History  (p.  47),  open  as  the  Historical  Museum. 
*Museum  Wallraf-Riehartz  (p.  39),  open  as  Nat.  Hist.  Museum. 
Baiihhaius  (p.  43),  open  on  same  terms  as  the  Giirsenich. 
ROmergang  (p.  4J8),  daily  until  10  p.m.  by  electric  light;  a^m.  50  pf. 
Zoological  Garden^  icc  p.  27.  ^dbyCjOOglC 


30    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  EiHory. 


choir-gallery  (p.  32) ;  Museum  (p.  38)  •,  Hohe  Straw  (p.  42) ;  Bathhaus  (p.  43) ; 
MoUk9  Monument  (p.  43);  GUrzenich  (p.  44);  St.  Maria  im  Capitol  (p.  45); 
thence  proceed  to  the  Keumarkt  and  past  the  Church  of  the  Apostles  (p.  iS) 


to  St.  Oereon  (p.  49) ;  walk  or  drive  in  the  new  Binff-Streute  (p.  52)  and  across 
one  of  the  Rhine  Bridget:  Flora  or  Zoological  Garden  (pp.  65, 54).  A  visit  to  the 
chief  sights  of  Cologne  occupies  two  days,  and  is  conveniently  accomplished 
in  the  order  followed  below.  The  best  time  for  the  churches  is  the  morn- 
ing after  10  o'clock.  The  services  of  valets-de-place  are  quite  superfluous. 
Afternoon  excursions  may  be  made  to  Altenberg  (p.  62),  ScMose  BrilM  (p.  80), 
and  Weiden. 

Cologne  (120  ft.  above  the  sea-leyel),  the  largest  town  in  the 
Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia ,  the  residence  of  an  archbishop ,  and 
one  of  the  most  important  commercial  places  in  Germany,  is  a  fort- 
ress of  the  first  class,  with  388,000  Inhabitants  (five-sixths  of  whom 
are  Roman  Catholics),  including  a  garrison  of  8000  men  and  the 
suburbs.  It  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  across  which  a  bridge- 
of-boats  and  an  iron  bridge  lead  to  Deutz  (p.  55).  From  a  distance, 
and  especially  when  approached  by  steamboat,  the  town  with  its 
numerous  towers  presents  a  very  imposing  appearance,  but  most  of 
the  old  streets  are  narrow  and  gloomy.  Many  of  them,  howeyer, 
contain  interesting  specimens  of  domestic  architecture,  dating 
from  the  16th,  15th,  and  even  the  13th  century.  The  development 
of  the  town  received  a  great  impetus  in  1881 ,  when  the  adoption  of 
a  farther  advanced  line  of  fortifications  literally  doubled  the  area 
of  the  town-domain,  and  also  in  1888  by  the  incorporation  of  the 
suburbs  of  Bayenthal,  Ehrenfeld,  Nippes^  and  Deutz.  Large  harbour- 
works  and  wharves  were  constructed  on  the  river- side  of  the  town 
in  1892-98. 

History.  Cologne  was  founded  by  the  Ubii,  at  the  time  when  they 
were  compelled  bv  Agrippa  to  migrate  from  the  right  to  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rhine  ^.  0.  38).  In  A.  D.  51  Agrippina,  daughter  of  Germanicus  and 
mother  of  Nero,  founded  here  a  colony  of  Roman  veterans,  which  at  first 

I  was  called  Colonia  AgHvpinensis^  and  afterwards  (Iplonia  Claudia  Agrinnina. 
It  was  the  seat  ot  ine  Jbegaie  of  Germania  In/erior.  The  Roman  city- 
walls,  constructed  in  the  time  of  Claudius,  enclosed  the  rectangle  between 
St.  Maria  in  Capitol  (PI.  D,  4),  the  Cathedral  (PI.  F,  4),  the  Romerthurm 
(PI.  F,  3;  p.  50),  and  the  S.  end  of  the  Kleine  Griechenmarkt  (PI.  C,  3).  The 
naval  camp,  recently  discovered,  lay  at  Alteburg  (p.  28),  to  the  S.  of  Cologne. 
In  308  Constantine  the  Great  began  a  stone  bridge  over  the  Rhine,  which 
connected  Marspforten  with  what  was  then  the  island  of  St  Martin,  and 
thence  crossed  to  Cattra  Divitentia  (Deutz).  This  bridge  was  afterwards 
destroyed  by  the  17ormans,  and  finally  removed  by  Archbishop  Bruno 
(see  p.  49).  From  the  end  of  the  fifth  century  Cologne  belonged  to  the 
kingdom  of  the  Franks,  and  it  was  long  occupied  by  the  Ripuarian  kings. 
Charlemagne  raised  the  bishopric,  which  had  been  founded  here  in  the 
fourth  century,  to  an  archbishopric,  the  first  archbishop  being  the  imperial 
chaplain  Bildeboldy  who  built  the  oldest  cathedral  church ,  and  presented 
to  it  a  valuable  library,  which  still  exists  (p.  38). 

The  archbishops  soon  began  to  lay  claim  to  political  as  well  as 
ecclesiastical  power,  and  endeavoured  to  construe  the  privileges  granted 
to  them  by  the  Emperor  into  unlimited  jurisdiction  over  the  city.  In 
consequence  of  these  pretensions  they  were  continually  at  variance  with 
the  citizens,  and  their  quarrels  usually  assumed  the  form  of  sanguinary 
feuds,  particularly  under  Anno  II.  (1066-75),  PhUipp  von  Heinsberg  (1167-91), 
lonrad  von  Hochstaden  (1238-61),  Engelhert  von  Falkenburg  (1261-74),  and 


Art  History.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route,     31 

Sieff/ried  van  Westerburg  (1275-97).  The  long  contest  was  decided  in  favour 
of  municipal  in^lepcndence  by  the  battle  of  Worringen  (1288 ;  see  p.  66), 
and  the  archbishops  were  compelled  to  transfer  their  residence  to  Briihl 
(p.  80),  and  afterwards  to  Bonn.  They  retained,  however,  the  highest 
jurisdiction  and  other  rights,  and  the  citizens  continued  to  take  the  oath  of 
allegiance,  *so  long  as  they  should  be  maintained  in  the  rights  and  privilege? 
handed  down  to  them  by  their  forefathers\  The_conflicts  carried  on  in 
the  town  itself,  between  different  noble  families  or  belwee'n  the  nobles 
and  the  guilds,  were  still  more  violent.  It  was  not  till  1396,  when  the 
guilds  gained  a  decisive  advantage,  that  there  was  a  cessation  of  hostilities 
(comp.  p.  43).  In  1482, 1513,  and  on  other  occasions,  the  city  was  again  the 
scene  of  revolutionary  struggles.  Its  vigorous  fund  of  vitality  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that,  in  spite  of  all  these  troubles,  Cologne  was  unquestionably  one 
of  the  wealthiest  and  most  prosperous  cities  in  Germany  at  the  end  of 
the  15th  century.  Its  commerce,  especially  its  trade  with  London,  where 
it  possessed  warehouses  at  the  (3^uildhall,  was  of  the  greatest  importance. 
At  an  early  date  Cologne  became  incorporated  with  the  ffanteatic  League^ 
in  which  it  contested  the  supremacy  with  Liibeck.  The  weights  and 
•  measures  of  Cologne  were  in  use  in  almost  every  Bhenish,  Westphalian, 
and  Dutch  town.  A  fair  held  at  Cologne  at  Easter  attracted  visitors  from 
all  parts  of  Europe,  and  even  from  beyond  the  sea. 

In  the  course  of  its  mediaeval  history  Cologne  may  boast  of  having 
twice  been  a  cradle  of  German  Art.  The  first  occasion  was  about  the 
middle  of  the  12th  century,  when  the  ecclesiastical  enthusiasm  shown  by 
the  acquisition  of  the  relics  of  the  Magi,  and  also  the  civic  love  of  splendour 
found  expression  in  a  highly-developed  style  of  Abohitbgtcbb,  calculated  for 
picturesque  effect  (comp.  p.  xzviii).  One  after  another  the  larger  churches 
were  remodelled,  special  attention  being  devoted  to  the  choir.  The  best  spe- 
cimen of  this  period  of  architecture  is  presented  by  the  Apoatel-Kirchey  as 
seen  from  the  Xeumarkt.  During  the  13th  cent,  the  taste  for  building  con- 
tinued and  led  to  a  restoration  of  the  Cathedral,  in  which,  however,  the 
traditional  Romanesque  architecture  was  abandoned  for  the  new  Gothic 
style,  emanating  from  France  and  then  spreading  rapidly  throughout  Europe. 
From  the  close  of  the  14th  cent,  onwards,  Cologne  enjoyed  a  second  golden 
era  of  art,  chiefly  confined  to  the  province  of  Painting  (comp.  p.  zxxi). 
The  municipal  archives  preserve  the  names  of  a  great  number  of  painters, 
but  only  in  a  very  few  instances  can  any  of  these  be  definitely  attached 
to  existing  pictures.  Among  the  best  known  are  MeUter  Wilhelm  (d.  about 
1880),  Stephan  Lochner  (d.  1461 1  comp.  p.  87),  and  the  Master  of  ih»  Life  of 
the  Virgin  (flourished  ca.  1400-90).  The  most  famous  pictures  of  this  school 
in  Cologne  are  the  Dombild  (p.  37),  the  Madonna  of  the  Priests'  Seminary 
(p.  39),  and  the  Madonna  in  an  arbour  of  roses  (p.  41).  —  The  taste  for 
architecture  was  not  extinct  even  at  a  later  period.  The  porch  of  the 
Bathhaus,  for  example,  is  an  interesting  specimen  of  the  German  Renais- 
sance. Not  only  were  old  churches  renovated,  but  occasionaUy  new  ones 
were  built.  Prior  to  1801,  when  many  of  them  were  secularised,  Cologne 
possessed  more  than  100  chtirches,  which,  of  course,  could  only  be  kept 
in  repair  by  constant  care  and  attention.  —  In  the  province  of  Science, 
Cologne  held  by  no  means  so  high  a  place  as  in  that  of  art.  The  univer- 
sity, founded  in  1388,  acquired,  as  the  chief  seat  of  the  opposition 
to  Htimanism  in  the  contest  of  Beuchlin  with  the  Obscurantists ,  a  wide 
but  far  from  enviable  reputation.  It  was  suppressed  at  the  close  of 
last  century. 

After  the  16th  century  Cologne  declined,  at  first  gradually,  and  after- 
wards rapidly.  In  common  with  the  rest  of  the  Hanseatic  towns  its 
commerce  lost  its  former  importance.  Continual  internal  discords,  leading 
to  the  banishment  in  1608  of  the  Protestants,  who  settled  at  Crefeld, 
Elberfeld,  Diisseldorf,  and  Miilheim,  proved  very  prejudicial  to  the 
interests  of  the  city.  It  retained,  however,  its  privileges  as  a  free 
imperial  city  until  its  occupation  by  the  French  (6th  Oct.,  1794).  By  the 
peace  of  Campo  Formio(17th  Oct.,  1797)  it  was  incorporated  with  France. 
—  It  was  not  till  after  1815,  under  Prussian  rule,  that  Cologne  began  to 
revive.     The  rapid  progress  of  its  steamboatf  and  railway  systems,  and 


32    Route  3,  COLOGNE.  a.  CaXhed/rql. 

the  enterprise  of  the  citizens,  many  of  whom  possess  great  wealth,  have 
combined  to  make  Cologne  the  centre  of  the  Bhenish  trade  and  one  of 
the  most  considerable  commercial  cities  in  Germany. 

a.  Cathedral  and  Museum. 

The  ♦♦Cathedral  t,  or  Dom  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  which  justly  excitea 
the  admiration  of  every  beholder,  and  Is  probably  the  most  magni- 
ficent Gothic  edifice  in  the  world,  stands  on  a  slight  eminence  about 
60  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  partly  composed  of  Roman  and  Prankish 
remains,  near  the  Central  Station.  It  is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter.  As 
early  as  the  9th  century  an  episcopal  church  (see  p.  30)  occupied 
this  site,  but  in  course  of  time  the  inhabitants  regarded  it  as 
unworthy  of  the  rapidly  increasing  size  and  prosperity  of  their  city. 
The  Archbishop  St.  Engelbert  first  entertained  the  project  of  erecting 
a  new  church  here,  but  in  consequence  of  his  untimely  death  in 
1225  (see  p.  36)  it  was  never  executed.  His  second  successor  Conrad 
of  Hochstaden  (see  p.  36),  after  the  old  church  had  been  severely 
injured  by  a  conflagration,  at  length  laid  the  foundation-stone  of 
the  present  structure  with  great  solemnity  on  14th  Aug.,  1248.  The 
designer  of  this  noble  work  is  believed  to  have  been  Meistet  Gerard^  to 
whom  the  Chapter  made  a  grant  in  1257  in  recognition  of  his  services. 

The  choir  was  the  first  part  of  the  building  proceeded  with. 
The  work  progressed  slowly,  Gerard's  successors,  Meister  Arnold  and 
his  son  Meister  Johann^  being  seriously  hampered  by  the  struggles  be- 
tween the  archbishops  and  the  citizens  (see  p.  30).  The  stone  used 
in  the  building  was  quarried  in  the  Drachenfels  (see  p.  93).  On 
27th  Sept.,  1322,  the  choir,  which  had  been  temporarily  terminated 
by  a  lofty  wall  towards  the  west,  was  solemnly  consecrated  by 
Archbishop  Heinrich,  CourU  of  Vimeburg.  The  builder  soon 
proceeded  to  lay  the  foundations  of  the  N.  and  (in  1325)  S. 
transepts,  while  at  the  same  time  the  old  church,  which  was  still 
used  for  divine  service,  was  gradually  removed.  In  1388  the  nave 
was  sufficiently  advanced  to  be  temporarily  fitted  up  for  service, 
and  in  1447  the  bells  were  placed  in  the  S.  tower.  Subsequently 
the  enthusiasm  subsided,  and  by  the  end  of  the  15th  century  all 
hope  of  seeing  the  church  completed  was  abandoned.  The  unfinished 


t  Travellers  are  recommended  not  to  engage  any  of  the  numerous 
valets-de-place  who  hover  about,  in  and  near  the  cathedral,  as  their  serv- 
ices are  unnecessary.  The  nave  and  transept  (with  the  stained-glass 
windows)  are  open  the  whole  day,  but  walking  about  is  forbidden  during 
divine  service,  the  hours  of  which  vary  (but  regularly  on  week-days  9-10  a.m. 
and  3-3.30  p.  m.)-  Tickets  to  visit  the  choir  (best  light  in  the  morning)  and 
treasury  (IVt  »M  each  person)  are  sold  by  the  'Domschweizer',  or  attendants 
stationed  in  the  cathedral.  Hours  of  admission:  from  1st  May  to  30th  Sept. 
on  Mon.-Frid.  10-11  a.m.,  12.30-3,  3.30-7  p.m. ;  Sat.  10-11  a.m.,  12.30-2.30  p.m.  5 
Sun.  12-1.30,  6-7  p.m.  -,  from  Ist  Oct.  to  30th  April  Mon.-Frid.  10-11, 11.30-1, 
3.30-5?  Sat.  10-11,  11.30-1;  Sun.  12-1  p.m.  From  8  to  8  45  a.m.  the  choir  is 
open  throughout  the  year,  but  walking  about  is  seldom  allowed,  as  divine 
service  is  then  usually  going  on.  Ascent  to  the  upper  gallery,  the  towers,  etc., 
•ee  p.  38.  —  Ko  fees  need  be  given.  ^  j 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


a.  Cathedral.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.   33 

building  was  provided  with  a  temporary  roof  about  1608,  and  in  the 
17tli  and  18tli  cent,  the  interior  was  decorated  in  the  degraded  style 
of  the  period.    The  uncompleted  structure  became  more  and  more 


1.  Engelbert  Chapel.    2.  Maternns  Gh.    8.  Ch.  of  St.  John.    4.  Ch.  of  the 

Three  EIdss.     5.  Ch.  of  St.  Agnes.     6.  Ch.  of  St.  Miehael.    7.  Ch.  of  St- 

Stephen.     8.  Ch.  of  the  Virgin.     9.  Treasury.    10.  Sacristy.     11.  Chapter 

House.     12.  Library. 

dilapidated.  In  1796  the  building  was  converted  by  the  French  into 
a  hay-magazine,  its  ruin  being  rendered  more  complete  by  the 
abstraction  of  the  lead  from  the  roof. 

Frederick  William  in.  and  FV.,  Kings  of  Prussia,  at  length 
rescued  the  desecrated  edifice  from  total  destruction.^The  former, 

Baedbkek'8  Rhine.     15kh  Edit.  «dbyVgi.OOg 


34    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  a.  Cathedral, 

at  the  saggestion  of  Sulpice  Boisser^e,  caused  it  to  be  examined  by 
tbe  eminent  architect  Schinkel  in  1816,  and  gaye  orders  to  preserve 
the  bonding  as  it  then  was.  The  work  of  restoration  was  not  begun 
till  1823.  It  was  at  first  carried  on  under  the  superintendence  of 
Ahlert  (d.  1833),  and  afterwards  under  that  of  the  talented  Zwimer^ 
a  thorough  master  of  the  Gothic  style  (d.  1861).  On  Zwimer's  death 
B,  Voigtel  (1829-1902)  succeeded  to  his  office,  and  carried  the  work 
to  an  end.  Zwimer  was  the  first  to  form  the  project  of  complet- 
ing the  cathedral,  an  idea  hailed  with  general  enthusiasm.  The 
foundation-stone  of  the  new  part  of  the  building  was  laid  on  4th 
Sept. ,  1842,  and  more  than  15,000^  were  afterwards  spent  yearly  on 
the  undertaking,  the  greater  part  of  this  amount  being  defrayed  by 
government,  the  remainder  by  private  subscriptions,  societies,  and 
the  proceeds  of  a  lottery.  The  entire  sum  expended  bet'^een  1842 
and  1880  amounted  to  upwards  of  900,000^.  The  last  stone  of  the 
huge  S.  tower  was  placed  in  position  in  August,  1880,  and  on  the 
15th  Oct.  of  the  same  year  the  completion  of  the  cathedral  was  cel- 
ebrated in  the  presence  of  the  Emperor  William  I.  and  almost  all 
the  sovereign  princes  of  the  German  Empire. 

The  cathedral  is  a  cruciform  structure  (see  Plan,  p.  33),  the 
nave  being  flanked  with  double,  and  the  transept  with  single  aisles. 
Total  length  167  yds.,  breadth  67  yds.,  length  of  transepts  94  yds., 
height  of  the  walls  150  ft.,  height  of  the  roof  201  ft.,  height  of  the 
central  tower  rising  over  the  crossing  357  ft.  The  W.  towers  are 
515  ft.  in  height  (oomp.  p.  38).  This  enormous  mass  of  masonry 
is  enlivened  by  a  profusion  of  flying  buttresses,  turrets,  gargoyles, 
galleries,  cornices,  foliage,  etc. 

The  ♦  W,  FaQodej  which  has  been  completed  entirely  in  accord- 
ance with  the  still  extant  original  designs  of  the  14th  cent,  with  its 
two  huge  towers,  is  a  superb  example  of  strictly  consistent  Gothic 
workmanship.  The  towers  consist  of  four  stories,  of  which  the  three 
lower  are  square  in  form,  while  the  fourth  is  octagonal,  crowned 
with  elegant  open  spires. 

The  largest  of  the  Belli  in  the  S.  tower  is  the  Kaiser- Oloeke^,  which 
was  east  in  1874  with  the  metal  of  French  guns ,  and  weighs  27  tons ; 
24  ringers  are  required  to  set  it  in  motion.  The  next  two  in  point  of 
size,  cast  in  1447  and  1448,  weigh  11  and  6  tons. 

The  Principal  Portal  is  93  ft.  in  height  and  31  ft.  in  width ; 
the  side-portals  38  ft.  high  and  18  ft.  wide ;  the  central  window  48 
ft.  high  and  20  ft.  wide.  The  portal  of  the  S.  tower  was  decorated 
in  the  beginning  of  the  15th  cent,  with  excellent  sculptures,  prob- 
ably by  Meiater  Conrad  Kuyn,  The  bronze  doors  were  modelled  by 
Schneider  of  Cassel,  and  cast  at  Iserlohn  in  1891-92.  —  The  arms  of 
the  transept  are  terminated  by  the  N.  and  S.  portals,  which  were 
completed  in  1859,  having  been  built  entirely  from  Zwimer's 
designs,  as  the  original  plans  were  no  longer  extant.  The  N.  Portal 
is  executed  in  a  simple  style;  the  beautiful  bronze  ♦Doors,  from 
the  designs  of  Mengetberg  of  Utrecht,  were  cast  at  Stuttgart  (1891). 


a.  Cathedral.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     35 

The  *8.  Portaly  with  bronze  doors  after  Schneider's  designs  (p.  34), 
is  elaborately  decorated,  and  embellished  with  statues  designed  by 
Schwanthaler, 

The  *  Choir y  completed  in  1322,  and  flanked  with  seven  chapels, 
is  substantially  a  repetition  of  that  of  the  cathedral  of  Amiens,  but 
some  of  its  details  are  even  more  perfect  in  form.  In  its  lower  parts 
It  exhibits  the  simple  and  dignified  forms  of  the  early  Gothic  style, 
while  in  the  upper  parts  the  full  magnificence  of  the  consummated 
art  is  displayed. 

The  **lNTBitiOB,  which  is  borne  by  56  pillars,  is  130  yds.  in 
length.  The  nave  is  16  yds.  wide  from  the  centre  of  one  pillar  to 
that  of  the  one  opposite,  and  145  ft.  in  height  |  each  of  the  inner 
aisles  is  7^2  yds.,  each  of  the  outer  9  yds.  wide ;  each  of  the  four 
aisles  is  60  feet  high.  The  area  of  the  interior  is  7400  sq.  yds. 
In  1863  the  partition  which  for  centuries  had  separated  the  nave 
from  the  choir  (see  p.  34)  was  removed,  and  in  1890-98  the  mosaic 
pavement  was  restored  from  designs  by  Essenwdn  and  Oeiger.  The 
effect  produced  by  the  ensemble  is  now  singularly  impressive. 

Nayb  andTBANSBpT.  The  large  stained-glass  window  above  the 
W.  portal ,  executed  by  Milde  of  Lfibeck,  was  presented  in  1878 
by  Emp.  Frederick  III.,  when  Crown  Prince.  The  five  stained-glass 
*  Windows  in  the  N.  (left)  aisle,  executed  in  1508  and  1509,  and 
presented  by  Archbishop  Philipp  von  Daun-Oberstein,  the  town  of 
Cologne,  Archbishop  Hermann  von  Hessen,  and  Count  Philipp  von 
Yirneburg,  are  among  the  finest  examples  of  the  kind  now  extant. 
The  subjects  are:  1.  Passion  and  Resurrection  of  Christ;  below, 
St.  Lawrence,  Madonna  and  Child,  and  the  donors.  2.  Life  of  St. 
Peter,  and  Tree  of  Jesse ;  below,  St.  Sebastian  and  an  archbishop. 
3.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  j  below,  SS.  George,  Reinold,  Gereon, 
and  Maurice,  with  Agrippa  and  Marsilius,  the  traditionary  founders 
of  Cologne.  4.  Visit  of  the  Queen  of  Sheba  to  Solomon,  the  Three 
Magi  'y  below,  St.  Peter  in  the  papal  chair,  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne, 
the  Madonna,  and  SS.  Elizabeth  and  Christopher,  patron  saints  of 
Hesse.  5.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  St. 
Peter  in  the  papal  chair,  SS.  Mary  Magdalen  and  George,,  and  the 
donor  with  his  two  wives.  —  The  five  beautiful  modem  windows  of 
the  S.  aisle,  with  representations  from  New  Testament  history, 
by  Joseph  Fischer  and  Hellweger,  were  presented  in  1848  by  King 
Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria.  —  The  first  window  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
S.  Transept  was  in  1856  filled  with  stained  glass,  executed  like  the 
preceding  in  Munich,  to  the  memory  of  Joseph  von  Gorres  (1776- 
1848),  *catholic»  veritatis  defensori  generoso*.  The  second  window, 
and  the  one  opposite  it,  representing  respectively  scenes  from  the 
lives  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  were  erected  by  the  directors  of  the 
two  leading  railway-companies  at  Cologne.  To  the  left  of  the  latter 
is  a  window  with  SS.  Sixtus  and  Hilarins.  The  modern  stained - 
glass  windows  above  the  S.  Portal,  presented  by  the  Emp.  William  1., 

3*        - 


36     Routes.  COLOGNE.  a.  Cathedral, 

were  executed  in  Berlin ;  those  of  the  N.  portal,  commemoiatiug 
the  elevation  of  Archbishop  von  Geissel  of  Cologne  to  the  rank  of 
cardinal,  are  of  Cologne  workmanship.  —  The  old  stained  glass  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  N.  Transept  is  from  several  ancient  churches  of 
Cologne,  now  demolished. 

The  statues  on  the  pillars  of  the  vestibule,  the  nave,  and  the 
transept  represent  prophets,  apostles,  and  saints.  —  By  a  pillar  of 
the  S.  transept  stands  a  8t<itue  ofSU  Chfiatopher,  about  10  ft.  high, 
dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  The  first  carved 
altar  (1520)  by  the  E.  wall  of  this  transept,  in  the  late-Gothic  style, 
is  from  the  church  of  St.  Maria  ad  Gradns  (pulled  down  in  1817) ; 
the  second  altar  is  of  Westphalian  origin  (15th  cent.). 

The  Ohoib  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  iron  railing.  We 
enter  by  the  N.  (left)  door.  Consoles  projecting  from  the  14  pillars 
of  the  central  part,  or  High  Choir  proper,  bear  Statues  of  Christ, 
Mary,  and  the  Apostles,  dating  from  thel4th  cent,  and  repainted 
in  1840  The  nine  frescoes  in  the  spandrels  executed  by  Steinle 
in  1843,  represent  Angel  Choirs  in  the  ecclesiastical  symbolic  style; 
they  are  best  seen  from  the  gallery  of  the  choir  (p.  38).  The  walls 
behind  the  carved-wood  Choir  Stalls  (14th  cent.;  are  covered  with 
interesting  mural  paintings  of  the  same  period,  unfortunately 
concealed  by  silken  tapestry  worked  by  ladies  of  Cologne  after 
Eamhoux*  designs.  Under  brasses,  with  engraved  full-length  figures, 
repose  Archbishop  von  Spiegel  (d.  1835)  and  Cardinal  von  Geissel 
(d.  1864).  The  High  Altar,  restored  in  the  original  style  in  1899, 
is  surmounted  by  the  old  ^Altar  of  St.  Clara\  with  a  fine  wood- 
carving  of  the  Passion ;  the  wings  are  adorned  with  paintings  of  the 
school  of  Meister  Wilhelm.  Above  the  triforium  of  the  choir  is  a 
series  of  admirable  old  Stained  Qlass  Windows,  representing  the 
kings  of  Judah,  etc.  (ca.  1300). 

Choib  Chapbls.  In  front  of  the  sacristy  is  the  sarcophagus  of 
Arehbiahop  Engetbert  von  der  Mark  (1364-68),  with  a  fine  figure  in 
sandstone. 

1.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Engelbert  (first  to  the  left,  N.  side),  con- 
tained down  to  1633  the  remains  of  Archbishop  Engelbert  von  Berg, 
who  was  assassinated  by  Friedrich  von  Isenburg  on  the  Gevelsberg 
near  Schwelm  in  1225,  but  they  are  now  preserved  in  a  magnificent 
silver  reliquary  in  the  treasury.  The  tomb  of  Arehbiahop  Anton  von 
Sehauenburg  (d.  1661)  is  worthy  of  notice. 

2.  Chapel  of  St,  Matemus,  Tomb  of  Arehbiahop  Philip  von  Heins- 
berg  (d.  1191),  with  'ajgood  statue  of  the  14th  century.  The  form 
of  this  monument  refers  to  the  fact  that  the  city- walls  were  begun 
under  this  archbishop.  The  altar-piece!  is  by  Barthol.  de  Bruyn 
(1548). 

3.  Chapel  of  St.  John.  *Tomb  of  Archbishop  Conrad  von  Hoch" 
staden  (d.  1261) ,  founder  of  the  cathedral ,  with  the  figure  of  the 
deceased  in  bronze  (restored  in  1847),  from  the  first  half  of  the 


a.  Cathedral.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route,     37 

i5tb  centnry.  Above  the  altar  are  mural  paintings  of  the  14th  cent- 
ury.   Under  glass  in  a  massive  oaken  frame  is  here  preserved  the 
original  sketch  on  parchment  of  the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral  with 
the  two  towers  in  their  completed  form.    Part  of  this  interesting 
design  was  found  at  Darmstadt  in  1814,  the  rest  at  Paris  in  1816. 
4.   Chapel  of  the  Magi.     Here  were    formerly  pieAerved  the 
'Bones  of  the  Magi'  or  'Three  Kings*,  which  were  brought  by  the 
^Empress  Helena  to  Constantinople.     They  were  aftejrwards  taken 
to  Milan ,  and  in  1164  presented  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  to  Arch- 
bishop Keinald  von  Dassel,  by  whom  they  were  removed  to  Cologne. 
This  is  the  origin  of  the  three  crowns  in  the  city*8  arms.    The  re- 
liquary in  which  they  are  preserved  Is  now  in  the  treasury  (p.  38). 
The  chapel  contains  a  modern  Q-othic  altar,  embellished  with  carv- 
ings (the  Magi,  etc.)  of  the  14th  century.    On  the  S.  side  is  the 
tomb  of  Archbishop  Ernest  of  Bavaria  (d.  1612).  The  other  electors 
of  the  House  of  Bavaria  repose  outside  this  chapel.    The  heart  of 
Marie  de  Midicis  (p.  48)  is  also  buried  under  a  stone  without  in- 
scription in  front  of  the  chapel.  —  Opposite,  at  the  back  of  the 
high-altar,  is  the  tomb  of  Archbishop  Dietrich  von  Mors  (d.  1463). 

5.  Chapel  of  8t,  Agnes^  with  old  stained-glass  windows,  much 
restored  in  parts,  and  noteworthy  mural  paintings  of  the  14th  cent., 
restored  by  Kleinertz.  In  the  middle  of  the  chapel  is  the  Gothic 
Sarcophagus  of  St,  Irmgardis  (11th  cent.). 

6.  Chapel  of  8t,  Michael.  Marble  tombstone  of  Archbishop  Wal- 
ram  of  JUlich  (d.  1349).  Marble  statue  of  the  imperial  general  Von 
Hochkirchen  (who  fell  at  Landau  in  1703),  by  the  Florentine  For- 
tini. — This  chapel  contains  the  celebrated  *Dombildj  a  large  winged 
picture,  painted  by  Stephan  Lochner  before  1460,  representing  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi  in  the  centre,  St.  Gereon  and  St.  Ursula  on 
the  wings,  and  the  Annunciation  on  the  outside. 

This  is  doabtless  the  picture  alluded  to  in  Diirer's  diary  of  his  tra- 
vels in  the  Low  Countries,  in  which  he  mentions  his  paying  two  'weiss- 
pfennige"  to  see  the  picture  which  ^Meister  Steffen'  had  painted  at  Co- 
logne. Heister  Stephan  or  Stephan  Lodmer  was  a  native  of  Meersburg  on 
the  Lake  of  Constance,  who  seems  to  have  settled  at  Cologne  about  1442. 
In  1448  he  was  elected  a  municipal  senator  by  his  guild,  and  he  died 
before  the  end  of  1461.  The  picture,  which  is  of  imposing  dimensions, 
occupies  an  intermediate  position  between  the  ideal  conceptions  of 
medieeval  times,  and  the  modem  realism  introduced  by  the  Dutch  school.. 
As  the  finest  work  of  the  Early  Oerman  School,  it  has  received  great* 
attention  from  connoisseurs,  and  justly  occupies  an  important  place  in  the 
history  of  art.  It  was  in  the  Bathhaus  Chapel  (p.  44)  until  the  period  of 
the  French  Revolution. 

7.  CJiopel  of  St.  Stephen.  Stone  sarcophagus  of  Archbishop  Oero 
(d.  976),  with  a  mosaic  of  the  10th  cent.,  a  relic  of  the  old  cathedral. 
Mural  tomb  of  Archbishop  Adolf  von  Schauenburg  (d.  1566). 

8.  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  or  Small  Choir  of  Our  Lady  (properly 
speaking  the  last  bay  of  the  outer  S.  aisle).  The  altar,  which  was 
designed  by  Zwimer  in  1856,  is  adorned  with  Overbeck's  Assump- 
tion, purchased  in  1855  for  900i.    On  the  next  pilaster  is  the  so- 


38    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  a.  Cathedral 

called  Madonna  of  Milany  a  German  work  of  the  14th  century.  — 
Near  the  altar  is  the  monument  of  Archbishop  Frederick  of  Saarwerden 
(d.  1414),  consisting  of  a  figure  of  the  archbishop  in  bronze  on  a 
sarcophagus  admirably  decorated  with  figures  of  saints,  the  whole 
restored  in  1847.  —  Tombstone  of  Archbishop  Reinald  von  Daaael 
(d.  1167;«8ee  p.  37),  upon  which  the  marble  statue  o(  Archbishop 
WUhelm  von  Oennep  (d.  1362)  was  placed  in  1842.  Opposite  is  the 
sarcophagus  of  Count  Gottfried  von  Amsberg  (d.  1368).  —  The 
Stained  Glass  of  this  chapel,  executed  at  Cologne  in  1857,  represents 
scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin,  copied  from  the  ancient  mural 
paintings  in  the  choir  (p.  36). 

The  Sacristy,  entered  from  the  '^.  ambulatory,  containi  a  fine  ciborium 
and  ancient  stained  glass  from  old  churches  of  Cologne. 

The  Treaanrv  Tadioinig  the  sacristy  on  the  left;  adm.,  see  p.  82) 
contains  ihe  golden  *ReUquarp  of  ihe  Magi\  a  costly  specimen  of  Roman- 
esque workmanship  in  the  form  of  a  basilica,  probably  executed  in  the 
years  1190-1200.  It  was  seriously  injured  in  1794,  when  carried  away 
for  concealment  from  the  French,  and  was  unskilfully  restored  in  1807. 
The  silver  Shrine  of  St.  Etiffelbtrt^  in  the  style  of  the  Renaissance,  dates 
from  1633.  —  On  the  end-wall,  to  the  left,  i  re  several  ecclesiastical  banners 
(banner  of  the  Magi,  1897)  and  the  so-called  war-banner  of  Byssus,  an 
embroidery  ascribed  to  the  10th  cent. ;  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  a  bronze 
relief  of  1516.  —  On  the  entrance-wall,  in  the  cabinet  to  the  right:  Sword 
of  Jutiice  (15th  cent.),  borne  by  the  Electors  of  Cologne  at  imperial  corona- 
tions in  Frankfort;  processional  cross  (12-14th  cent.);  bishops*  staves  (8th, 
14th,  and  17th  cent.);  Gothic  m  nstrance  (14th  cent.) ;  Renaissance  monstrance 
presented  by  Pius  IX.  in  1848;  elaborate  altar -cross  (17th  cent.);  and 
vestments.  In  the  cabinet  to  the  left :  Ten  admirably-carved  ivory  tablets 
by  Melchlor  Paulus  (1708-83),  with  scenes  from  the  Passion;  reliquary  ot 
the  16-17th  cent.;  ''Otculum  Pads  in  the  Renaissance  style,  decorated  with 
enamels,  pearls,  and  precious  stones;  monstrance  of  the  17th  cent.,  l9Vslbs. 
in  weight,  thickly  set  with  precious  stones;  mitres.  —  The  desk-case  con- 
tains ancient  printed  works  and  HSS..  including  a  MS.  of  th'  Gospels 
(llJh  cent.)  and  a  Frankish  breviary  (12th  cent.)- 

The  Paramenten-Saaly  to  the  right  of  the  sacristy,  contains  a  valuable 
collection  of  ecclesiastical  ornaments  and  farnitore. 

In  the  Cathedral  Library  are  the  Hildebold  Codices,  returned  from 
Darmstadt  in  1868  (comp.  p.  30). 

The  visitor  should  not  omit  to  walk  round  the  *Inner  Oallery  of  the 
Choir  and  those  on  the  Exterior  of  the  Choir ^  or  to  ascend  the  Central  or  one 
ot  the  W.  Towers  (ascent  from  the  outside,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  S.  transept ; 
cards  of  admission  iJi;  on  Sun.  open  from  9  or  10  to  2  only),  as  a  better 
idea  may  thus  be  formed  of  the  grandeur  of  the  structure.  The  external 
gallery,  or  better  still  the  open  gallery  of  the  central  tower,  commands 
an  extensive  *View  over  the  sea  of  house.",  the  plain  intersected  by  the 
Rhine,  and  the  Seven  Mts.  in  the  distance. 

In  the  garden  on  the'  terrace  behind  the  choir  are  some  architectural 
fragments,  discarded  in  the  process  of  restoration,  which  will  serve  to 
convey  some  idea  of  the  colossal  proportions  of  the  edifice. 

To  the  N.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Haupt-Bahnhof  (PI.  F,  4),  or 
main  railway -station,  built  by  G.  Frentzen  in  1889-94  and  con- 
sisting of  an  iron  pavilion,  275  yds.  long,  100  yds.  wide,  and  80  ft. 
high,  with  a  clock-tower  132  ft.  in  height.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  cath- 
edral is  the  H6tel  du  Dome  (p.  26).  The  Hein%elmannchen  Founicdn, 
by  E.  and  H.  Renard  (1900),  in  the  adjoining  street  known  as  Am 
Hof,  Illustrates  a  local  fairy  tale,  well  versiiled  by  Kopisch. 


a,  Muf'tam,  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     39 

The  Arehiepisoopal  Muienm  (PI.  E,  4;  adm.,  see  p.  29),  op- 
opposite  the  S.  gate  of  the  cathedral,  is  established  in  a  chapel, 
formeily  belonging  to  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace  and  le-ereoted  in 
1665.  It  contains  a  collection  of  ecclesiastical  and  other  objects  of 
medisBval  art,  sculptures,  MSS.,  and  paintings,  of  which  the  most 
valuable  is  tiie  *ViTgin  with  the  violet,  belonging  to  the  Priests' 
Seminary,  probably  by  Stephan  Lochner  (p.  37).  On  the  first  floor 
is  an  exhibition  of  church  vestments. 

From  the  Dom-Kloster,  the  space  in  front  of  the  W.  facade 
of  the  cathedral ,  we  cross  the  Wallrafs-Platz  to  the  S.W. ,  and 
reach  the  — 

♦Wallraf -Bichartg  Mnieiun  fPl.  E,  4),  built  in  the  English 
Gothic  style  by  Felten  in  1855-61 ,  and  adorned  with  statnes  of 
eminent  natives  of  Cologne  by  Bldter,  Fuchs,  Mohr,  and  Werres, 
The  central  building  faces  the  K.,  while  at  the  back  are  two  wings, 
including  the  handsome  late-Gothic  cloisters  of  the  Church  of  the 
Minorites  (p.  42).  In  the  garden  in  front  of  the  museum  is  the  E. 
side-portal  of  the  Pfaffenihor  (p.  45),  and  near  it  are  bronze  statues 
(by  W.  Albermann;  1900)  of  Herr  Richartz  (d.  1861),  a  wealthy 
merchant  who  provided  the  funds  for  the  museum-building,  and 
Canon  F.  WaUraf(<i.  1823),  who  bequeathed  his  collection  of  art 
to  the  town.  —  Adm.,  see  p.  29.  Guide  to  the  Roman  Antiquities 
(1902),  20  pf. ;  to  the  paintings  (1902),  50  pf.  —  Director,  Ptof. 
K,  Aldenhoven, 

Ground  lloor  and  Oloiatay :  Collection  of  AntiqwHeg.  From  the  entrance- 
hall,  tn^vnT^ronthengbTimd  left  of  the  staircase,  are  marble  basts  of 
Wallraf  and  Richartz,  by  Bldier.  we  descend  to  the  — 

Lower  Gloistrbs.  The  K.  (front)  wing  contains  Roman  antiquities 
discovered  at  Cologne  (lst-4th  cent.  A.D.).  In  4he  central  cases  are  objects 
found  in  closed  graves;  between  these,  a  built-up  tomb  from  the  street 
of  tombs  at  Aix-Ia-Ghapelle.  In  Anteroom  V.  are  mosaic  pavements,  in- 
cluding the  'Mosaic  of  the  Sages',  showing  bust-portraits  of  seven  Greek 
philosophers  aod  poets  (with  the  names  Diogenes,  Socrates,  Aristotle. 
Chilon,  Plato,  Cleobulos,  and  Sophocles),  found  near  St.  Gecilia  in  1844 
(probably  of  the  4ih  cent.;  some  of  the  cubes  are  of  glass).  —  In  the  W. 
wing  (on  the  right)  are  Roman  tombstones,  including  several  with  re- 
presentations of  the  funeral  feast  (Kos.  86,  24,  26,  469),  and  the  relief  of 
a  horseman  (No.  96).  —  The  E.  f  nd  S.  wings  are  occupied  by  fragments 
of  buildings  and  sculptures  from  medieeval  and  Renaissance  churches  and 
other  builcungs  in  Cologne,  now  pulled  down.  —  We  return  to  the  entrance- 
hall  and  enter  the  — 

Upp£b  Gloibtbbs.  Comer  Room,  to  the  right:  12.  Colossal  marble 
mask  of  Medusa,  found  in  Italy.  —  To  the  left,  in  the  If.  Wing:  Roman 
antiquities  found  at  Cologne:  'Glass  with  rich  ornamentation;  terracotta 
statuettes,  lamps,  and  vases ;  pottery.  Sculptures :  11.  Colossal  mask  of  a 
river-god;  busM;  3.  iEneas,  Anchises.  andAscanius,  a  group  in  limestone ; 
head  of  Athena  Parthenos ,  after  Phidias.  —  E.  Wing.  Roman  goblets ; 
bronzes  (statuette  of  a  god);  carvings  in  bone,  jet,  and  amber;  ornaments; 
writing  implements  in  bronze;  weapons;  coins;  prehistoric  and  Prankish 
antiQuitiea;  stones  with  Roman  and  early- Christian  inscriptions.  Sculptures : 
18.  Head  of  Venus ;  22.  Herma  of  Bacchus ;  27.  Female  head  (so-called  Niobe). 
—  8.  Wing.  Dutch  and  other  paintings  bequeathed  by  Fuchs,  the  sculptor 
(temporarily  exhibited  here):  727.  R.  van  Vries,  712.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Land- 
scapes; 666.  Direk  van  pelen,  Prodigal  Son;  693.  /.  M.  Molenaer,  Peasant 


40    Route  o  .  COLOGNE.  a.  Museum. 

interior-,  675.  Heda,  StiU-life  (165?);  671.  Dink  Hah,  Genre-scene  (1629)-, 
tt26a.  J).  Terrier*  the  Younger  {f),  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  711.  S.  van 
Ruytdael^  Tavern  by  a  river.  Here  also  are  water-colours,  etc.  —  W.  Wing. 
Mediseval  and  Renaissance  aculptures  in  wood  and  stone :  large  carved-oak 
*  Altar  (c.  1520),  with  scenes  from  the  Passion  (school  of  Calcar,  p.  59); 
Virgin  and  Child,  French  work  of  1800 ;  marble  figures  from  the  old  high- 
altar  of  the  cathedral  (1860) ;  painted  angels  of  the  Cologne  school  (ca.  15i0) ; 
single  figures  from  altars  of  the  Bhenfsh  and  Antwerp  schools.  —  Between 
the  windows:  Water-colour  copies  of  the  frescoes  in  the  chapter-room  at 
Brauweiler  (p.  16). 

To  the  right  on  the  groundfloor  are  five  rooms  with  plaster-casts; 
to  the  left  are  a  room  containing  the  model  of  tha  monument  of  Frederick 
William  III.  (p.  46)  and  another  containing  old  mural  paintings  (story  of  the 
Undutifal  Son),  from  the  Glesch  House  in  the  Hoch-Strasse. 

The  Staircase  is  adorned  with  ^Fbbsooes  by  Steinle  (1860-61),  illustra- 
tive of  the  history  of  art  and  civilisation  at  Cologne.  The  scenes  begin 
with  the  picture  to  the  left  as  we  look  back  from  the  topmost  landing  of 
the  stair.  1.  Roman  and  Romanesque  Period:  Constantine  the  Great  (324-337) 
on  his  throne,  surrounded  by  warriors,  artists,  and  others;  on  the  other 
side,  Charlemagne  (716-814),  also  enthroned,  with  his  retinue,  including 
Eginhard,  Alcuin,  and  Paulus  Diaconus.  Between  the  two  emperors  is 
St.  Helena  with  her  attendants.  In  the  comer  adjoining  Charlemagne  are 
the  most  famous  archbishops  of  Coloene:  St.  Hildebold  (p.  80)  with  the 
plan  of  the  old  cathedral,  St.  Bruno  (d.  965)  with  the  church  of  St.  Pantaleon, 
Heribert  (d.  1021)  with  the  church  of  the  Apostles,  and  Anno  (d.  1075) 
with  the  church  of  St.  Gereon.  Next  to  these  is  the  Prankish  queen 
Plectrudis  (8th  cent.)  with  the  plan  of  St.  Maria  im  Capitol.  Below,  in 
the  adjoining  scenes,  is  the  legend  of  Cologne:  St.  Haternus,  the  first 
bishop,  bapt^ing  converts  in  the  Rhine,  St.  Gereon  with  his  companions, 
St.  Ursula  and  her  virgin  followers,  and  St.  Hermann  Joseph  in  St.  Maria 
im  Capitol.  —  Opposite,  on  the  wall  to  the  right,  is  —  2.  The  Mediaeval 
Period :  in  the  centre  Albertus  Magnus,  the  learned  theologian  of  Cologne, 
with  his  pupils,  including  Thomas  Aquinas  and  Duns  Scotus.  To  the 
right  of  Albertus  is  Conrad  of  Hochstaden  (p.^1);  farther  on  are  painters 
of  Cologne ;  then  the  two  burgomasters  welcoming  a  vessel  of  the  Hanseatic 
League.  In  the  subordinate  scenes,  the  popular  Festival  of  St.  John  (p.  45), 
the  arrival  of  the  relics  of  the  Magi,  etc.  —  On  the  central  wall,  to  the  left 
of  the  door :  3.  Renaissance  and  Modem  Period :  to  the  left,  Rubens  receiving 
the  order  for  the  altar-piece  of  St.  Peter's  church  (p.  48);  Winckelmann 
studying  the  Laocoon;  in  the  centre  the  brothers  Boisserde  (p.  41)  and 
Friedrich  von  Schlegel ;  to  the  right,  Wallraf  and  Richartz,  the  founders  of 
the  museum.  Below,  the  Carnival  of  Cologne.  —  To  the  right  of  the  door  : 
4.  Continuation  of  the  Cathedral:  completion  of  the  S.  portal  in  presence  of 
Frederick  William  IV. .  the  architect  Zwimer,  and  the  archbishop  Jo- 
hannes von  Geissel.  —  Above  the  central  entrance-door,  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  staircase,  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  Cologne,  with  Marsilius, 
the  hero  of  Cologne  (p.  44),  and  Agrippina,  the  Roman  empress  (p.  SO).  — 
From  the  highest  landing  we  enter  the  rooms  of  the  — 

Upper  Floor,  containing  the  *  Picture  Oallery,  Its  most  important  section 
from  a  technical  point  of  view  is  that  containing  the  works  of  the  Earlt 
CoLooNB  School;  but  some  excellent  Dutch  works  of  the  17th  cent,  two 
important  canvases  by  Rubens,  and  the  large  Murillo  acquired  in  1896  will 
interest  even  the  unprofessional  visitor.  The  works  of  the  Italian  schools 
and  the  modern  paintings  are  of  less  importance. 

From  the  Staircase  (I)  we  enter  the  rooms  to  the  right,  containing 
the  earlier  paintings,  and  traverse  them  to  the  other  end. 

Room  II.  Early  Cologne  School  (c.  1350-1450).  To  the  right:  Unknown 
Masters,  1.  Triptych,  Crucifixion  (about  1350),  2,  3.  SS.  John  and  Paul 
(about  1360),  4,  5.  Annunciation  and  Presentation  in  the  Temple  (about 
1370).  —  Meister  Wilhelm  (about  1380),  8.  Craciflxion;  9.  Eight  saints;  13. 
Triptych,   the  Virgin  with  a  bean-blossom  in  her  hand  and  the  Infant 


a.  Museum.  COLOGNE.  3.  Routt,    41 

Christ  on  her  right  arm;  on  the  left  St.  Catharine,  on  the  right  St.  Barbara. 
36,  37.  Master  of  the  Small  Fastion,  Annunciation  (ca.  1400)-,  MeisUr  Stephan 
Loekaer  (d.  1450),  *''64.  Madonna  in  an  arbour  of  roses,  66. 88.  Mark,  Barbara, 
and  Luke,  66.  SS.  Ambrosius,  Cecilia,  and  Augnstine,  68.  Last  Judgment. 
3d7.  WestpAalian  Matter  (about  1420),  Crucifixion,  with  numerous  figures. 

Book  III.  Cologne  Masters  (ca.  1460-1510).  On  the  entrance-wall  and 
side-walls,  Master  of  the  Life  of  Mary  (ca.  1460-90;  so  called  from  a  series 
of  pictures  at  Munich),  *131.  Crucifixion,  with  the  Virgin ,  St.  John ,  and 
Mary  Magdalen.  "134.  Madonna  and  St.  Bernard,  18T.  The  Saviour,  13S.  St. 
^gidius,  13^,  140.  Annunciation,  *141.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  dated  1480 
(the  wings,  SS.  Andrew  and  Thomas,  are  school-pieces).  Farther  on  (to 
the  right  and  left),  Jfa«<«r  of  the  Olorijication  of  Mary,  123.  Glorification 
of  the  Virgin,  a  crowded  picture,  12^.  St.  Anna  with  the  Madonna  and 
saints  (view  of  Cologne  from  the  harbour),  130.  Four  saints  (view  of 
Cologne  from  the  land  side) ;  *147-l64.  Matter  of  the  Lyvenherg  Passion^  The 
Liyversberg  Passion,  a  series  of  8  pictures  on  a  gold  ground  (about  1500; 
formerly  belonging  to  the  Lyversberg  family).  —  ifatter  of  St.  Severin 
(ca.  1500;  comp.  p.  43),  18B.  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  188.  Last  Judgment; 
="169.  Matter  of  Hhe  Holy  Kinship,  The  Kindred  of  the  Madonna,  on  the 
wings  SS.  Bochus  and  Nicasius  (right)  and  SS.  Oudula  and  Elizabeth  (left; 
after  15u0).  Farther  on,  on  the  left  side-wall  and  the  exit-wall:  Matter 
of  the  Altar  of  St.  Bartholomew  (ca.  1500),  ^184.  'Altar  of  St.  Thomas',  a 
triptych:  in  the  centre  Christ  appearing  to  the  doubting  Thomas;  in- 
side the  wings,  the  Madonna  with  St.  John,  and  St.  Hippolytus  with  St. 
Afra;  183.  Virgin  and  Child;  186.  Altar  of  the  Holy  Cross,  a  triptych,  in 
the  centre  Christ  on  the  Cross,  on  the  wings  John  the  Baptist  and  SS. 
Cecilia,  Alexius,  and  Agnes. 

Boom  IV.  Cologne  and  Early  Netherlandish  Schools  fca  1516-50).  255. 
Barih.  de  Bruyn  the  Elder,  Portrait;  *442.  Matter  of  the  Death  of  Mary, 
l>eath  ot  Mary,  a  triptych,  with  saints  and  donors  on  the  wings  (1515?).  — 
Boom  V.  935-339.  Bemains  of  the  mural  paintings  from  the  Hansa-Saal  in 
the  Bathhaus  (187u).  —  Boom  VI.  (straight  on)  contains  less  important 
works  by  B.  de  Bruyn  and  other  Cologne  painters  and  some  Netherlandish 
works.  —  Boom  VII.  Upper  German  Jjchool  (16th  cent.):  3^3.  iM.  GrUne- 
toald,  St.  Anthony;  385.  A.  DiireriO,  l?ifer  and  drummer  (belonging  to 
the  'JoV  painting,  mentioned  on  p.  238).  —  We  return  to  B.  V,  and  thence 
enter  (to  the  rigiit)  — 

Boom  Vni.  Italian  Schools.  On  the  entrance -wall  are  paintings  of 
the  early-Sienese  school :  516.  I^eri  di  Bicci,  5*22.  B.  Meinardi,  Madonna  and 
saints.  —  Opposite:  635.  Style  of  BoceeKcio  Boecaecino,  Portrait;  *552.  J^an- 
cesco  Franeia,  Madonna;  633.  Raphael,  Madonna  of  Loretto,  a  copy  of  a 
vanished  original  of  the  master's  Boman  period.  —  634.  8eb.  del  Fionibo, 
Holy  Family  (original  in  Naples);  5  2.  Tintoretto,  Portrait ;  543.  Paris  Bordone, 
Bathsheba;  673.  Mattia  Preti,  Judith.  —  Also:  579.  Claude  Lorrain,  Land- 
scape with  Cupid  and  Psyche  (damaged).  *577.  Murillo,  Pardon  of  St.  Francis 
of  Assisi;  the  Saviour  and  the  Virgin  appear  to  the  saint  in  the  chapel  of 
the  Portiuncula,  while  angels  strew  roses  on  the  altar  in  token  that  his 
prayer  has  been  heard  (painted  after  1670  for  the  Capuchins  of  Seville).  — 
We  cross  the  hall  to  — 

Boom  X.  Flemish  School  (16-17th  cent.),  etc.  To  the  right,  680. 
O.  van  Eonthortty  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds;  6L7.  Corn,  de  Vot,  Family 
portraits.  —  616.  /Snydsrs,  Still-life ;  *\m.  Rubensy  St.  Francis  of  Assisi 
receiving  the  stigmata  (pamted  ca.  1617  for  the  high-altar  of  the  old 
Capuchin  church  at  Cologne);  632.  D.  Ryckaert^  Cobbler.  —  **604.  Rubens, 
J.ono  and  Argus,  originaUy  in  the  Palazzo  Dorazzo  at  Genoa  (1611);  622, 
633.  A.  van  Dyek,  Portraits  of  Jabach  (p.  48),  school -pieces;  no  number, 
D.  Teniert  the  Yownger,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony.  —  Jordaent,  614.  Pro- 
metheus, 612,  613.  Portraits;  605.  Rubens,  Holy  Family  (probably  by 
pupils ;  ca.  1636) ;  607.  A.  van  Dyck  (here  ascribed  to  Rubent),  Four  negroes* 
heads  (original  in  Brussels).  —  To  the  right  is  — 

Boom  XI.  Dutch  Schools  (16-17th  cent.).  To  the  right,  661.  Benj. 
Oerrittz  Cuyp,  Camp-scene;  689.  M.  J.  van  Miereoelt,  Portrait  (1633);  '673. 
Jan  van  Ooyen^  Landscape  j  Jac.  Ofrritst  Ouyp,  662.  Children  with  a  sheep, 


42    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  a.  Hoch-Strassc, 

663.  Portrait  (1643).  —  *7iQ,  Jan  Sfeen ,  Capture  of  Samson  ^  724.  PieUr 
VerelMt^  Old  woman;  ♦847.  A.  van  Beiferm^  Breakfast;  649.  Terhurg^  Portrait; 
6S8.  /.  vender  Mterit),  Dutch  wbarf;  663.  Van  de  CtmelUCj),  RiTer-piece.  — 
670.  O.  van  den  Beckhout(1),  Esther  and  Haman;  654,  665.  Com.  JemseenSy 
Portraits  (1651);  668.  K.  du  Jardin^  Italian  landscape,  with  accessories. 

We  now  reach  the  Oolleotion  of  Hodem  Paintings,  most  of  which  are 
of  the  Dusseldorf  and  Munich  schools.  —  Room  IX  (Kaiser-Saal;  to  the 
right  of  R.  XI,  opposite  the  staircase) :  784.  ^Sf.  Meieter^  Frederick  William  IV. 
as  Grown  Prince  (1884) ;  83^.  W,  GampTutusen,  King  William  saluted  hy  his 
troops  after  the  battle  of  Sedan,  with  Bismarck,  Holtke,  and  Roon  among 
his  retinue  (i8T2);  896.  Lenhach,  Bismarck  (1888);  929.  F.  von  Kaulbach, 
Emp.  William  II. 

Room  XII.  To  the  right :  *932.  W.  Leibl,  Study  of  a  head ;  971.  Munkacay^ 
Old  woman;  972.  L.  Jimenet^  Guard-room;  983.  V.  Lagye^  The  librarian 
(1870) ;  1889.  Fr.  Defregger,  Tyrolese  girl  (1812).  ~  Room  XIII.  To  the 
right:  f64.  E.  SUngeneier^  Sinking  of  *Le  Vengeur\  a  French  man-of-war 
(1842);  774.  K,  Begat,  Parents  of  the  painter  (1826);  768.  Fr.  Overbeek^ 
Patrons  of  art  (cartoon  designed  by  Cornelius) ;  746.  Joh.  Kupetzky  (d.  1740), 
Portrait  of  himself  (?) ;  no  number,  A.  Oraffi^.  1818),  Portrait.  —  Room  XV. 
980.  A.  jromiann,  Norwegan  fjord. 

Room  XVI.  To  the  right.  888.  Deftegger^  Wrestlers  (1870);  902.  Liezen- 
Mayer,  Queen  Elizabeth  signing  the  death-warrant  of  Queen  Mary  Stuart; 
823.  A.  Achenhach,  Departure  of  a  steamer;  *859.  O.  Riehter,  Queen  Louise 
(1879);  886.  B.  VauHer,  Funeral-feast;  864.  Gude,  Calm;  793.  LesHng, 
Monastery-court  in  winter;  777.  RottmafM,  Cefalu  (Sicily);  788.  B.  C.  Koekkoek, 
852.  Ed.  Hildehrandt,  794.  Zesting,  Landscapes;  789.  Ed.  Bendemann,  Mourn- 
ing Jews  in  exile  (1839) ;  795.  /.   W.  Sehirmer,  Italian  landscape. 

Room  XVII.  973.  F.  Pradilla,  Spanish  scholar ;  935.  W.  Firle,  'Forgive 
us  our  trespasses';  925,  924.  /.  Sperl,  Landscapes  (figures  by  W.  LetTtt); 
923.  W,  Leibl,  Portrait  of  Pallenberg;  930.  G.  Schdnlebery  Dutch  coast;  916. 
/.  Wenglein,  On  the  Isar;  876.  L.  Knaus,  The  empty  d'sh;  955.  Trot/on, 
Landscape;  •921.  W.  Leihl,  Father  of  the  painter;  970.  Munkacty,  Village- 
hero;  895.  Letihaeh,  Leo  XIII. 

Adjoining  the  S.  side  of  the  Museum  is  the  Church  of  the 
Minorites  (PI.  E,  4),  an  early-Gothic  building  of  simple  but  hand- 
some proportions,  probably  commenced  in  1220,  but  not  completed 
till  forty  years  later,  and  restored  in  1860.  The  large  window  above 
the  portal  in  the  principal  facade  and  the  elegant  spire  (of  last 
century),  restored  in  the  style  of  the  original,  are  specially  strik- 
ing. The  line  sacristy  has  a  round  pillar  in  the  centre.  The  church 
contains  the  (modem)  tombstone  of  the  celebrated  theological  dis- 
putant Duna  Scoius  (d.  1309),  in  the  ambulatory  at  the  back  of  the 
high-altar,  with  the  inscription :  Scotia  me  genuitj  Anglia  me  sus' 
cepitj  OaXlia  me  docuit^  Colonia  me  tenet. 


Between  the  Oathedral  and  the  Museum,  at  the  small  Wallrafs- 
Platz  (p.  39),  begins  the  narrow  HoHHSTBAsyB^  or  Hooh-Stbassb  (PI.  E, 
D,  4),  the  busiest  street  In  Cologne,  which  with  its  prolongations 
(Marzellen-Str.  andEigelstein  to  the  N.,  Hochpforte  and  Severln-Str. 
to  the  S.)  intersects  the  whole  city  from  N.  to  S.  To  the  right,  near 
the  centre  of  the  street ,  is  the  Kdniain-AnguMta-HalU ,  or  P<maoe 
(caftf,  p.  27),  an  arcade  with  shops.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  in  the 
Augustiner-Platz,  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Bismarck,  by  F.  Schaper 
(1879). 

In  the  Waidraarlt  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  at  the^end  gf(the  Hochpforte, 


b.OldToun,  COLOGNE.  3,  Route.    43 

is  the  Hermann  Joseph  Fountain^  by  W.  Albermann  (1894).  — 
Close  by  is  the  old  church  of  — 

St.  Oeorge,  consecrated  in  1067,  originally  a  plain  Romanesque 
columnar  basilica,  with  a  crypt  of  the  same  character  (now  restored). 
The  porch  dates  from  1536. 

At  the  end  of  the  Severin-Strasse  (tramway  No.  6,  p.  28),  to  the 
left,  is  St.  Severin  (PI.  B,  4),  which  stands  upon  the  site  of  a 
Christian  church  built  as  early  as  the  4th  century,  and  has  been 
often  destroyed.  The  present  church  was  consecrated  in  1237  and 
was  thoroughly  restored  in  1880.  The  effective  quadrangular  tower 
was  erected  In  1393-1411 ;  the  nave  was  furnished  with  new  vault- 
ing in  1479;  the  baptismal  chapel,  adorned  with  stained  glass, 
dates  from  1505. 

The  sareopbagns  of  St.  Severin  with  a  roof-shaped  lid ,  the  excellent 
mountings  of  a  door  of  the  12th  century .  a  copper-gilt  reading-desk  in 
the  form  of  an  ««gle.  and  the  Gothic  choir-dtalls  will  repay  Inspection. 
The  Matter  of  St.  Severin  (p.  41)  'akes  his  appellation  from  two  eaTly-Cologne 
pictures  in  the  sacristy. 

For  the  Severins-Thor  and  the  Ring-Strasse^  see  p.  53. 

b.  The  Old  Town  to  the  E.  of  the  Hoch-Strasse. 

Between  the  Hoch-Strasse  and  the  Rhine  are  situated  several 
important  buildings,  not  far  from  each  other.  Another  relic  of  the  y 
Roman  fortifications  is  also  preserved  here  in  the  shape  of  the  ^ 
Romergang,  a  subterranean  passage  constructed  of  massive  blocks 
of  tufa  (adm.,  see  p.  29).  It  is  reached'by  a  winding  staircase  in 
the  restaurant  *Im  R5mer'  (Unter  Goldschmied  48;  PI.  E,  4).  The 
passage  is  about  7  ft.  high  and  4  ft.  wide  and  has  been  explored  for 
120  yds.    By  the  entrance  are  a  few  Roman  remains. 

A  \)Tonze  Statue  of  Field  Marshal  Mnlike,  by  Schaper,  was  erected 
in  1881  in  the  Laurenz-Platz  (PI.  E.  4),  a  little  io  the  S.  —  The 
Portalsgasse  leads  immediately  to  the  left  to  the  Rathhaus-Platz. 

The  *Bathhaiii  (PI.  E,  4,  51  stands  on  the  substructions  of  a 
Roman  stronghold  (probably  the  Praetorium),  of  the  arches  of  which 
some  remains  are  still  visible  In  the  cellar.  The  oldest  part  of  the 
present  building  (14th  cent.)  is  the  central  portion  (with  the  Hansa- 
Saal),  looking  towards  the  Rathhaus-Platz.  In  1569-71  an  elegant 
^Portico  in  the  Renaissance  style  was  built  in  front  of  this,  from 
the  plans  of  Wilhelm  Vemickel,  bearing  long  Latin  inscriptions  and 
reliefs  alluding  to  the  tradition  of  Burgomaster  Oryn's  fight  with 
the  lion  (see  p.  44).  The  handsome,  five-storied  Tower  was  built 
in  1407-14,  from  the  proceeds  of  the  fines  imposed  upon  noble 
families  in  1396.  Most  of  the  statuettes  with  which  it  was  adorned 
have  been  replaced  by  modern  substitutes.  —  The  E.  portions 
of  the  structure,  facing  the  Altenmarkt,  were  erected  in  1549-50 ; 
the  fa^de,  richly  ornamented  with  reliefs  and  statues,  was  altered 
in  1591,  but  restored  by  RaschdorfF  in  the  original  style  in  1870.  — 
Admission,  see  p.  29.  D,g,t„ed  by Google 


44    Routes.  COLOGNE.  h.  Old  Town  (E.): 

The  L&wenhof,  bnilt  by  Lorenz  in  1540  in  the  Renaissance  style,  then 
newly  introdaced  into  Germany,  is  so  named  in  reference  to  the  tradition 
(above  alluded  to)  that  Archbishop  Engelbert  sought  the  life  of  Burgomaster 
Gryn  (1264),  and  threw  the  obnoxious  citizen  into  a  lion's  den  in  his  palace, 
from  which,  however,  his  intended  victim  contrived  to  escape  unhurt. 

The  ^HaiUM'Saal,  or  Hanseatic  Hall  (30  yds.  long,  8  yds.  wide,  32  ft. 
high),  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Rathhaus,  now  used  for  meetings  of  the 
municipal  council,  is  said  to  be  that  in  which  the  first  general  meeting 
of  the  League  took  place  on  19th  Nov.,  1367.  The  S.  wall  is  entirely 
occupied  by  nine  rich  canopies,  with  large  figures  vigorously  executed  in 
stone,  representing  heathen,  Jewish,  and  Christian  heroes  (Hector,  Alexander 
the  Great,  Ceesar;  Joshua,  David,  Judas  Maccabseus;  Charlemagne,  King 
Arthur,  Godfrey  de  Bouillon)  \  above  these,  but  smaller,  Charles  lY . ,  who 
fortified  the  town  and  presented  it  with  the  privileges  of  a  market,  as  the 
figures  on  the  right  and  left  indicate.  In  the  windows  are  the  armorial 
bearings  of  the  diUerent  imperial  families  of  Germany,  on  the  long  wall 
those  of  forty-five  patrician  families  of  Cologne,  on  the  ceiling  those  of 
the  burgomasters  of  Cologne,  from  1346to  the  downfall  of  the  independence 
of  the  city.    The  two  upper  series  are  the  arms  of  the  twenty-two  guilds. 

—  The  principal  apartment  of  the  portion  of  the  Bathhaus  which  was 
erected  in  1550  (towards  the  Altenmarkt)  is  the  ' MuMchel-SaaT  (shell- 
room)  ,  richly  decorated  in  the  rococo  style  in  1761.  The  Tapestry ,  with 
which  it  is  adorned,  was  executed  by  Vos  from  drawings  by  Wouverman, 
and  was  purchased  by  the  Town  Council  from  the  heirs  of  Elector  Clement 
Augustus.  —  The  former  Rath$-Saal  is  in  the  tower.  The  fine  door,  adorned 
with  intarsia,  was  executed  by  MelcMor  Beidi  in  1603  \  to  the  same  period 
belong  the  stucco  ceiling,  ornamented  with  medallions  of  the  emperors, 
and  the  door  of  the  committee-room,  transferred  hither  from  the  Arsenal. 

—  The  part  of  the  building  between  the  Hansa-Saal  and  the  Baths-Saal  has 
been  adorned  with  modem  carved  panelling  and  mural  paintings  in  the 
Gothic  style. 

In  the  RATHHAus-PjiAIgt  to  the  left,  is  the  late-Gothic  Chapel  of 
the  Rathhaus,  which  formerly  contained  the  Dombild  (p.  ST),  and 
was  consecrated  in  1426.  The  spire  is  of  graceful  proportions;  the 
sacristy  dates  from  1474.  To  the  right  is  an  edifice  known  as  the 
Spanish  BuUdino.  erected  in  1611-17  after  Flemish  models,  and 
restored  in  1886. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  Martin-Str. ,  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Rath- 
haus, is  the  *GarBenich  (_P1.  E,  4),  with  its  pinnacles  and  turrets, 
built  in  1441-52  at  a  cost  of  80,000  florins,  to  aerve-aa.  a  *Herren 
Tanzhaus'  and  banquet-saloon  on  occasions  when  the  Town  Council 
desired  to  entertain  distinguished  guests  with  a  magnificence  worthy 
of  the  city.  Besides  the  'Giirzenich'  property  the  Council  purchased 
several  other  pieces  of  ground  to  form  a  site  for  this  imposing  build- 
ing. The  architect  was  Johann  von  Biiren.  The  first  grand  festival 
was  held  here  in  1475  in  honour  of  Emperor  Frederick  III.  Other 
festivals  took  place  in  1477,  1486,  1505,  and  1521.  In  the  17th 
and  18th  centuries  the  large  saloon  fell  into  decay,  and  was  used  as 
a  magazine  till  1857,  when,  after  undergoing  a  thorough  renovation 
at  the  hands  of  Jul.  Raschdorfif,  it  was  restored  to  its  original  uses. 
This  is  the  finest  of  the  ancient  secular  edifices  of  Cologne. 

Above  the  E.  gateways  are  statues  of  Agrippa  and  Martilius^  the 
founder  and  the  defender  of  Cologne  in  the  Roman  period,  executed  by  Hohr, 
painted  by  Rleinertz  in  the  ancient  style,  and  erected  in  1859  in  place  of 
the  old  ones,  which  had  become  injured  by  exposure  to  the  weather. 

Interior  (adm.,  see  p.  29).    On  the  groundfloor  is  the  former  magazine, 


St.  Maria  im  Capitol.      COLOGNE.  3.  Route.    45 

converted  by  Herr  Weyer  in  1875  into  a  fine  Exghangk  Hall  Tno  adui. 
in  the  morning).  The  handsome  Staibcasb  was  added  in  1891-92.  —  On 
the  first  floor  is  the  spacious  *F£8t-Saal  (58  yds.  long,  24  broad),  borne 
by  twenty-two  richly  carved  wooden  columns,  with  a  gallery.  The  modern 
stained-glass  windows  represent  the  armorial  bearings  of  Jiilich ,  Cleve, 
Berg,  and  Mark,  the  mediseval  allies  of  Cologne,  with, St.  Peter  as  the 
patron-saint  of  the  city,  two  Imperial  eagles,  the  arms  of  Cologne  itself, 
those  of  six  burgomasters  of  the  period  when  the  building  was  first  erected, 
and  those  of  the  twenty-two  guilds.  The  two  large  Chimney  Piecti  of  the 
15th  century,  richly  carved  with  scenes  from  the  history  of  the  town, 
are  worthy  of  inspection.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  a  fine  representa- 
tion of  the  Procession  on  the  completion  of  the  cathedral  in  1880,  by 
CampTiauseny  the  two  Roebers^  Beekmann^  and  Baur.  —  The  Antkghakbeb 
(^Kleine  Giirzenich"  or  4sabeIlen-Saar)  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings 
by  Schmitz,  representing  the  entry  of  the  Empress  Isabella,  the  legend  of 
the  Cologne  wood-cutting  expedition  (vt>.  that  Marsilius  saved  the  town 
from  a  beleaguering  enemy  by  sending  out  armed  women  against  them  on 
the  pretext  of  felling  wood),  and  the  Festival  of  St.  John  (a  symbolical 
washing  away  of  the  evil  of  the  year  in  the  Rhine,  mentioned  by  Petrarch, 
who  visited  Cologne  in  1333).  -   Concerts  and  ball,  see  p.  28. 

The  Martin-Str.  ends  at  the  Lichhof  (VLD,  4),  beside  the  church  of  \ 
St.  Maria  im  Capitol.  Immured  in  the  N.  side  of  the  Platz  is  the  main  i 
archway  of  the  Pfaffenthor  (Porta  Paphia ;  PI.  Pf.),  brought  to  light 
in  1893  opposite  the  W.  end  of  the  cathedral.  It  bears  the  inscription 
C.  C.  A.  A.  (i.e.  Colonia  Claudia  Augusta  Agrippinen  sis),  below  which 
the  name  of  Gallienus  appears  as  that  of  the  builder  (259-268). 

The  church  of  ♦St.  Maria  im  Capitol  (Zint  Marjen  in  local  speech  ; 
Pl.D,  4),  consecrated  in  1049  by  Pope  Leo  IX.,  a  cruciform  edifice 


in  the  Romanesque  style,  constructed  on  an  imposing  and  somewhat 
peculiar  plan.    The  choir  and  transept  terminate  in  semicircular 


46   Route  3.  COLOGNE.  h.  Old  Town  (K): 

apses  with  an  ambulatory  round  each,  and  impart  to  the  £.  end  of 
the  building  the  trefoil  shape,  of  which  this  is  the  earliest  example 
at  Cologne.  The  vaulting  of  the  aisles  dates  from  the  11th  cent., 
the  upper  portion  of  the  choir  from  the  12th,  and  the  remaining 
vaulting  probably  from  the  13th  century.  The  church  owes  its  name 
to  the  ancient  tradition  that  this  site  was  once  occupied  by  the 
Roman  Capitol,  which  was  succeeded  by  the  palace  of  the  Frankish 
kings.  The  original  edifice  was  erected  at  least  as  early  as  696  and 
is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Plectrudls,  wife  of  Pepin  of  H^ristal 
and  step-mother  of  Charles  Martel. 

The  church,  which  has  other  entrances  in  the  Harien-Plats  and  in  the 
Casino-rtr.  (No.  6),  is  not  open  fur  inspection  until  12  noon.  Best  light 
about  midday. 

The  *lNTBiuoR  was  decorated  in  1870  with  frescoes,  begun  by  BMnU 
(paintings  in  the  apse),  and  completed  by  OoeObels  from  tue  designs  of 
JSsienwein  of  Nuremberg  and  Klein  of  Vienna.  —  In  the  W.  vestibule  are 


painting  by  Bant  Baldung  Orien  (Death  ot  the  Vii^in;  1521).  —  The  modem 
high-altar  was  designed  by  £ttenwein.  —  The  o|^ken  door  which  leads  into 
the  uyse  of  the  JN .  transept,  decorated  with  very  prpminent  reliefs,  dates 
from  the  foundation  of  the  church.  The  8.  (Haraenrath's)  chapel  (of  1466) 
contains  fine  stained  glass.  In  the  Archive  Boom  is  a  late-Komanesque 
portable  altar.  —  The  fine  Cbtpt,  with  its  nave  and  aisles,  its  quadran- 
gular chapels,  and  its  side-chambers,  corresponds  with  the  form  of  the 
choir.  It  contains  the  tomb  of  Plectrudls  (12tb-cent.),  and  some  ancient 
mural  paintings.  —  The  Bomanesque  Clolbtbrb,  beside  the  entrance  in 
the  Casino-Strasse,  are  quite  built  up. 

We  quit  the  Lichhof  by  the  Gothic  Dreikdnigen-Thdrchen  on  the 
S.  side.  In  the  dirdction  of  the  Rhine,  Rheingasse  No.  8,  Is  the 
Templars'  Lodge  (PI.  X),  5),  a  handsome  Romanesque  edifice,  with 
round-arched  windows,  niches ,  and  corbie-stepped  gables,  dating 
from  the  12th  or  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  It  was  the 
family  residence  of  the  *Over8tolzen\  a  powerful  family  of  medlsTal 
Cologne,  and  was  bought  by  the  town  in  1836  and  judiciously  restored. 
It  Is  now  used  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce.  —  A  little  to  the  S., 
in  the  Filzengdsse ,  Is  the  Protestant  Trinity  Church  (PI.  D,  4,  5), 
in  the  early-Christian  basilica  style,  designed  by  Stiller  (1860).  — 
For  the  church  ofSt.  Maria  in  Lyakirchen  and  the  Harbour,  see  p.  47. 

The  short  street  known  as  'AmMalzbiicher  leads  to  theN.E.  from 
the  upper  end  of  the  Rheingasse  to  the  Hbumabkt  (PI.  D,  E,  5), 
one  of  the  largest  squares  In  the  town.  Here  rises  the  Xonument 
of  Frederick  William  III.,  erected  in  1878  by  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Rhenish  provinces. 

The  colossal  equestrian  statue  of  the  king  on  a  lofty  pedestal  is  surrounded 
by  statues  of  the  principal  statesmen  and  warriors  who  cooperated  with 
him  in  raising  Prussia  to  the  rank  of  a  first-class  power  and  in  freeing  the 
Bhenish  provinces  from  Frenca  domination  (Bliicher,  Stein,  Amdt,  Hum- 
boldt, etc.).  The  reliefs  on  the  sides  indicate  the  progress  of  the  Bhenish 
provinces  in  science,  art,  commerce,  and  manufactures.  The  chief  figure 
and  the  statues  on  one  side  are  by  BlOser  of  Cologne  (1813-74),  those  at 
the  front  and  back  by  Drake,  the  rest  by  BchweiniU,  Tondeur,  and  Bilehting, 
The  reliefs  are  by  Valandrelli. 


Gross  8t.  Martin  COLOGNE.  3.  Route,    47 

In  the  adjacent  Altbnmaukt (PI.  £,  5)  is  a  monumental  Fountain, 
in  the  German  Renaissance  style,  after  a  design  by  Albermann  (1885). 
The  chief  figure  is  a  statue  of  Johann  von  Werth  (d.  1651 ;  p.  14), 
a  famous  cavalry  general  in  the  Thirty  Years*  War ;  the  figures  of 
a  peasant  and  maiden  at  the  sides  refer  to  the  tradition  that  he 
became  a  soldier  on  account  of  a  love-disappointment. 

The  Zoll-Strasse  leads  from  the  Altenmarkt  to  the  Rhine.  In 
this  street  is  the  old  Irish  Church  (*Schotten-Kirche*)  of  *OroBB 
St.  Martin  (PI.  E,  5),  formerly  on  an  island  in  the  Rhine,  dating 
originally  from  the  Merovingian  period.  The  existing  church,  built 
by  Abbot  Adelhard,  after  the  repeated  destruction  of  previous 
edifices,  was  consecrated  by  Abp.  Philip  in  1172.  The  massive  E. 
portion,  with  its  imposing  tower  (270  ft.  high)  surrounded  by  four 
corner-turrets,  seems  to  have  been  constructed  in  the  13th  cent., 
and  was  restored  in  1437  and  1454-99.  (The  S.W.  comer- turret  fell 
in  1526,  and  was  not  restored  tiHlBT^;^  Before  the  pointed  W. 
portal  is  a  porch  covered  with  groined  vaulting,  probably  dating 
from  the  14th  century.  The  whole  building  has  been  restored  by 
Nagelschmidt. 

The  Intbbios  (visitors  ring  at  the  screen;  fee  50 pf.  eachj  sacristan, 
Zoll-Str.  7a)  has  been  decorated  from  the  designs  of  Ettenwein.  In  the 
comer  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  marble  font,  adorned  with  lions' 
beads  and  foliage,  said  to  have  been  presented  by  Pope  Leo  III.  in  803.  On 
the  upper  side-altars  are  six  modem  statues  of  Saints,  by  Hoffmann  of 
Borne.  The  N.  aisle  contains  a  fine  Descent  from  the  Gross,  by  Du  BoiSy 
and  Christ  before  Annas,  by  Honthortt.  Fine  modern  tiled  pavement,  made 
at  Hettlach. 

The  Zoll-Strasse  ends  at  the  Stapelhaus  (PI.  E,  5),  built  in 
1558-69  and  restored  in  the  original  style  in  1900-1.  Besides  a 
restaurant  (p.  27)  this  edifice  accommodates  the  municipal  Museum 
of  Hatnral  History  (adm.,  see  p.  29),  the  entrance  to  which  is  is 
the  Mauthgasse. 

On  the  Firtt  Floor  are  the  Vertebrata,  including  a  large  collection  of 
native  birds.  There  is  also  a  lecture-room  (adm.  free).  —  On  the  Second 
Floor  are  the  less  developed  animals  and  the  m  nerals  and  fossils. 

A  large  new  Central  Market  (PI.  D,  5)  was  begun  in  1902  amid 
the  quaint  old  lanes  between  the  Heumarkt  and  the  Rhine.  — 
Farther  up  the  river,  in  the  street  *An  Lyskirchen',  is  the  ancient 
church  of  St.  Maria  in  Lyskirchen  (PI.  D,  5) ,  rebuilt  in  the  transi- 
tion style  at  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent,  and  embellished  with 
ceiling-paintings  and  recently  restored  throughout  (sacristan,  An 
Lyskirchen  10).  Here  begin  the  new  Harbour  Works  mentioned 
at  p.  80. 

Near  this  point  are  the  only  two  bridges  across  the  Rhine  at 
Cologne,  viz.  the  older  Bridae-of- Boats  (PI.  P,  E,  6)  and,  near  the 
new  gardens  on  the  Frankenwerft,  the  Iron  Bridge  (PI.  E,  F,  5). 
The  latter  (completed  in  1859)  is  broad  enough  for  a  double  line 
of  rails  and  a  separate  roadway  for  ordinary  traffic  (toll  3  pf.).  It 
is  453  yds.  long,  and  47  ft.  above  the  average  level  of  the  water. 


48    Routes,  COLOGNE.  c.  Old  Town  (W.): 

Over  the  entrance  on  the  left  (Cologne)  bank  is  an  Equestrian  Statue 
of  Frederick  William  IV.,  in  bronze,  by  Blaser,  on  the  right  bank 
an  Equestrian  Statue  of  William  I.  by  Drake,  both  erected  in  1867. 
The  approach  to  the  bridge  on  the  left  bank  affords  a  good  survey 
of  the  choir  of  the  cathedral.  —  Deuts,  on  the  right  bank,  see  p.  55. 

c.  The  Old  Town  to  the  W.  of  the  Hoch-Btrasse. 

In  the  Briickengasse  (on  the  right)  is  the  late-Gothic  church  of 
St.  Columha  (PI.  E,  4),  the  kernel  of  which  is  a  Romanesque 
columnar  basilica.  The  church-treasury  is  rich.  —  The  Synagogue 
(PI.  E,  4),  in  the  Glockengasse,  was  built  in  1859-61  in  the  Moorish 
style,  from  designs  by  Zwirner.  Farther  to  the  "W.,  in  the  same 
street,  is  the  Alte  Stadt-Theater  (PI.  E,  3),  by  Raschdorff  (1872). 

The  Kreuzgasse  and  Antonsgasse  lead  hence  to  the  S.  to  the 
convent  and  church  of  St,  Ceeilia  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  the  latter  a  very 
ancient  building,  rebuilt  as  early  as  930-41 ,  and  again  in  the  12th 
century,  on  which  occasion  parts  of  the  edifice  of  the  10th  century 
appear  to  have  been  retained.  It  contains  a  curious  crypt,  which 
is  wrongly  described  as  a  remnant  of  the  oldest  episcopal  church 
built  by  St.  Matemus.  Good  relief  above  the  arch  of  the  N.  door. 
The  interior  has  lately  been  restored;  the  painting  of  the  choir 
dates  from  about  1300,  but  the  pictures  in  the  apse  and  nave  are 
modern.  —  Adjacent  is  the  church  of  St.  Peter  (PI.  D,  3),  begun 
in  1524  and  successfully  restored  in  1890-92. 

The  Imtbsiob  haa  been  redecorated,  with  the  aid  of  the  old  painting. 
—  The  choir  contains  a  late-Gothic  carved  altar  with  good  pictures  on  the 
wings  (fee  76  pf.),  and  beautiful  stained-glass  *Window8  of  1528  and  1680 
(Bearing  of  the  Cros'',  Crucifixion,  Descent  from  the  Cross).  In  the  chapel 
to  the  right  of  the  choir  (but  concealed  by  a  mediocre  altar-piece)  is  the 
*Oucifixion  of  St.  Peter,  by  Rubens^  recovered  from  Paris  in  1814.  Thia 
fine  picture,  one  of  the  most  vigorous  works  of  the  master,  but  repellent 
owing  to  its  startling  fidelity  to  nature,  was  painted  by  order  of  the 
.Tabach  family  in  1638-40  in  memory  of  Herr  Bberhard  Jabach,  the  well- 
known  patron  of  art  (d.  1636).  It  is  shown  by  the  sexton  for  the  some- 
what exorbitant  fee  of  li/s  JK-  Behind  the  altar  reposes  Jan  Bubens 
(d.  1587),  the  father  of  the  painter. 

Opposite  is  the  Wolkenburg  y  resembling  the  Gurzenlch,  the 
meeting-place  of  the  Mdnner-Gesangverein  (p.  28). 

At  the  back  of  the  two  charches  last  described  is  situated  the 
spacious  Hospital  (PI.  D,  3),  erected  in  1846.  It  may  be  inspected 
in  the  afternoon  (small  fee  to  the  attendant).  —  To  the  N.W.  are 
the  Neumarkt  and  the  Apostles'  Church  (p.  49). 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  Sternengasse  (Xo.  10.  left  side),  near  the  Hoch- 
Strasse,  is  a  handsome  house  in  which  Rubent  is  erroneously  said  to  have 
been  born.  The  house  bears  an  inscription  and  a  relief  above  the  door 
in  memory  of  the  illustrious  master  v- and  on  the  opposite  side  is  an  in- 
scription recording  (correctly)  that  Marie  de  MicUeis,  widow  of  Henri  IV. 
of  France,  died  here  in  exile  in  1642. 

The  church  of  St.  Pantaleon  (PI.  C,  3 ;  now  a  military  church, 
and  also  used  by  the  Old  Catholics)  was  constructed  on  the  site  of 


AjfOsUes  Church.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.    49 

t  i  older  building  in  964-80.  The  materials  for  this  purpose  are  said 
to  have  been  taken  by  Archbishop  Bruno  (d.  965),  brother  of  Emperor 
Otho  the  Great,  from  the  remains  of  Oonstantine's  bridge  (p.  30). 
The  choir  and  the  vaulting  date  from  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent. ; 
but  the  substructure  of  the  towers,  with  its  two-storied  additions, 
seei'  s  to  belong  entirely  to  the  10th  century.  The  towers  were  rebuilt 
in  .  J91.  Archbishop  Bruno  and  the  Empress  Theophano  (d.  999)  are 
buried  in  the  church.  There  are  some  remains  of  Romanesque  mural 
paintings  in  the  E.  transept  and  the  side-chapels. 

The  Mauritius- Steinweg  (tramwax„lSra^4,  p.  28)  leads  hence  to 
the  N.W.  to  the  Mauritius-Kirche  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  built  by  Vincenz 
Statz  in  the  Gothic  style  in  1861-65. 

In  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  liBujy^BSS,(Pl.  D,  E;  3),  a  square  planted 
with  trees  (military  parade  at  noon),  the  largest  in  the  old  town, 
rises  the  *AP08tleB'  phnych  (PI.  E,  2,  3),  a  remarkably  handsome 
basilica  with  aisles  and  double  transept.  Over  the  E.  crossing  rises  a 
dome  flanked  with  two  slender  corner-towers,  and  over  the  W.  crossing 
a  square  tower.  The  picturesque  choir  and  the  arms  of  the  E.  transept 
end  in  very  spacious  rounded  apses,  adorned  with  two  series  of  niches 
and  a  miniature  gallery  above  them.  The  oldest  parts,  including  the 
W.  tower,  date  from  the  first  half  of  the  11th  cent;  at  the  end  of 
the  12th  cent,  the  edifice  was  vaulted,  the  pilasters  in  front  of  the 
pillars  introduced,  and  the  choir  enlarged;  and  the  church  was 
finally  completed  about  1220.  In  1895-1901  the  choir  and  transepts 
were  adorned  with  mosaics  from  designs  by  Kleinertz  and  Stummel. 
*  When  the  plague  raged  at  Cologne  in  1367,  Bichmodis  von  Lyskir- 
chen,  wife  of  the  knight  Mengis  von  Aducht,  was  attacked  by  the  malady, 
and  liaving  fallen  into  a  deathlike  swoon,  was  interred  in  the  Apostles'* 
Church.  Being  awakened  from  her  trance  by  a  thievish  grave-digger  in 
his  attempts  to  abstract  her  ring,  she  returned  to  the  house  of 
her  husband,  who,  imagining  he  beheld  an  apparition,  declared  he  would 
sooner  believe  that  his  horses  could  ascend  to  the  loft  of  his  house  than 
that  his  departed  spouse  should  return  in  proprid  pertond.  Scarcely  had 
the  words  escaped  his  lips,  says  the  legend,  than  horses'*  hoofs  were  heard 
mounting  the  stairs,  and  their  heads  were  speedily  seen  looking  out  of  a 
window  in  the  upper  story  of  the  house.  The  lady  recovered,  and  lived 
for  many  years  afterwards.  Two  horses'*  heads,  affixed  to  the  upper  story 
of  the  house  with  the  tower  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Keumarkt  (So.  10),  are 
said  to  have  been  placed  there  in  commemoration  of  the  miraculous 
event,  but  they  more  probably  formed  part  of  the  armorial  bearings  of 
l^icasins  von  Haquenay,  who  built  the  house. 

The  Kichmod-Strasse  (tramway  No.  3,  p.  28)  and  its  continua- 
tions lead  hence  direct  to  the  church  of  St.  Gereon  (p.  50).  — 
From  the  end  of  the  Richmod-Str.  the  busy  Brbitb-Steassb  (PI.  E, 
3,  4;  tramway  No.  4)  leads  to  the  E.  back  to  the  Wallraf-Richartz 
Museum  (p.  39)  and  the  cathedral. 

d.    The  N.  Quarters  of  the  Old  Town. 
The  Burgmauer,  beginning  at  the  Pom-Kloster  (p.  39),  and  the 


busy  Kqmodien- Strasse  (PI.  F,  4,  3)  lead  to  the  W.  to  the  hand- 
some ^^C^rpfTcomJleted  in  1893.  r^^^^T^ 

..  '    „  •  .  ._,^    „^.  Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 

Baedekjse's  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  ^         ^40 


50    LioaU'd.  COLOGNE.  d.  N.  Quarters: 

In  the  Zeughau8-Str.,  the  continuation  of  the  Komodien-Str., 
are  the  Arsenal  (1601),  with  the  guard-honse,  and  the  OovernmerU 
Building  (1830).  —  Farther  on  to  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  the 
Apern-Str.  (which  leads  to  the  Apostles'  Church,  p.  49),  rises  the 
I  so-called  RofnErthurm  fPl.  F,  3),  or  Clarenthurmj  an  ancient  round 
i  tower  inlaid  with  stones  of  different  colours.  It  formed  the  N.W. 
angle  of  the  ancient  Roman  town  (comp.  p.  30).  The  upper  part, 
with  battlements,  is  modern.  —  The  Steinfeldergasse  leads  hence  to 
the  Gbeeonsdbibsch  (PI.  F,  3),  which  is  planted  with  trees. 

The  church  of  *St.  .gereon  (PL  F,  3),  dedicated  to  the  318 
martyrs  of  the  Theban  legion,  with  their  captain  Gereon,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  legend,  perished  hete  in  286  during  the  persecution 


of  the  Christians  under  Diocletian,  is  an  edifice  of  very  peculiar 
style  (recently  thoroughly  restored).  The  long  Romanesque  choir  is 
adjoined  by  a  decagonal  nave  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  quadran- 
gular vestibule.  The  original  structure,  circular  in  form,  with  ten 
niches  resembling  those  of  the  NymphaBum  of  the  ^Minerva  Medica' 
at  Rome,  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the  Empress  Helena^  mothei 
of  Constantino  the  Great.  Archbishop  Anno  (d.  1075)  added  the 
choir  and  the  spacious  crypt,  and  Archbishop  Arnold  II.  built  the  E. 
apse  and  the  two  square  towers  about  1160.  In  1219-27  the  round 
part  of  the  church,  having  become  dilapidated,  was  converted  into 
the  present  decagonal  nave,  153  ft.  in  height,  20  yds.  in  length, 
and  18  in  breadth,  covered  with  groined  vaulting,  the  eight  shorter 
sides  retaining  the  original  niches.  Other  alterations  took  place  in 
the  14th  and  15th  cent.,  to  which  period  belongs  the  vaulting  of 
the  choir  and  of  the  vestibule.  The  s&criBtan,  who  is  generally  to 
be  found  in  the  church  in  the  morning  (visitors  knock),  lives  at 
Gereons-Kloster  No.  4  (1-2  pers.  1  Jf;  for  more,  50  pf.  each). 

The  Vestibule  contains  a  few  ancient  tombstones.  To  the  right  is 
a  small  chapel  added  in  1897,  with  a  Pieta  by  /.  ReU$. 

The  *TKTRyTf^it,  recently  embellished  with  paintings  by  Odhbeh  after 
Eumwein'9  designs,  presents  an  imposing  appearance.  In  small  chapels  in 
the  recesses  of  the  nave,  above  which  runs  a  gajlery  borne  by  short 
columns,  are  seen  the  stone  sarcophagi  of  the  maftyrs,  "half  built  into  the 

.^dbyGoOg 


8L  Iksala.  COLOGNE.  3.  RouU,    51 

walls.  Their  skalla  are  arranged  ander  gilded  arabesques  along  the  sides 
of  the  Choir  ^  to  which  fifteen  steps  ascend.  The  carved  choir-stalls  date 
from  the  beginning  of  the  l4tii  cenfnry.  Above  is  some  tapestry  of  the 
18th  cent.,  \dth  scenes  from  the  story  of  Joseph.  The  E.  end  of  ttie  choir 
is  reached  by  seven  steps  more.  —  The  Sacristy^  in  the  purest  Gothic 
style,  dating  from  1816,  containing  fine  Gothic  stained  glass,  and  the  octa- 
gonal Baptwtery  (adjoining  the  nave),  with  much  defaced  mural  paintings 
of  the  first  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  are  also  worthy  of  notice. 

The  Cbtpt  below  the  choir,  with  its  three  aisles  borne  by  sixteen 
columns ,  dating  (with  the  exception  of  the  12t1i  cent.  E.  end)  from  the 
11th  cent.,  contains  an  interesting  specimen  of  tiie  art  of  that  period: 
viz.  a  Motaie  Pavement ,  the  sections  of  which  represent  scenes  from  the 
lives  of  David  and  Samson,  and  the  signs  of  the  Zodiac.  It  was,  perhaps, 
executed  by  Italian  workmen,  as  similar  scenes  are  very  common  in 
Italian  churches.  The  fragments,  which  had  got  into  disorder,  were  suc- 
cessfully restored  and  supplemented  by  the  psdnter  Avenarius  in  1869-71. 

Adjacent  is  the  CUyLayrary  (PI.  F,  3),  with  the  Archives,  built 
in  the  Gothic  style  in  18^4-97  (adm.,  see  p.  29).  The  former  con- 
tains about  150,000  vols.,  including  a  noted  collection  of  editions 
of  the  Imitation  of  Christ'. 

The  shortest  route  from  the  Gereonsdriesch  (tramway  No.  2, 
p.  28)  to  the  Hansa-Platz  and  the  Museum  of  Industrial  Art  (p.  54) 
is  via  the  Klingel-Piitz  and  the  Gereonsmuhlengasse  (PI.  F,  G,  3).  — 
On  the  left  side  of  the  Gereons-Strasse,  which  leads  hack  to  the 
cathedral,  is  situated  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace  (PL  F,  3),  whence 
the  Hunnenrtlcken  leads  to  the  IJbstjla-Platz  (PI.  F,  G,  4). 

St.  Ursula  (PL  G,  4)  occupies  the  site  of  a  church  of  the  4th 
century.  In  the  11th  cent,  it  existed  as  a  flat-roofed  basilica  with 
galleries,  but  in  the  13th  cent,  it  received  a  vaulted  roof  and  the 
early-Gothic  choir  was  added  (1287).  The  S.  aisle,  of  the  same 
period,  was  re-vaulted  in  the  15th  century.  The  entire  edifice  was 
restored  in  the  original  style  in  1890-91. 

The  church  is  closed  except  during  service,  which  ends  about  10  a.m. 
(sacristan,  Ursulagarten  -  Str.  1).  —  The  "S.  aisle,  near  the  choir,  contains 
a  moniunent,  by  Johann  Lenty  erected  in  1658  to  8t.  Ursula^  an  English 
princess,  who,  according  to  the  legend,  when  on  her  return  from  a  pil- 
grimage to  Rome,  was  barbarously  murdered  at  Cologne  with  her  11,(XX) 
virgin  attendants.  The  figure  is  in  alabaster,-  with  a  dove  at  the  feet. 
The  bones  of  these  virgin  martyrs  are  preserved  in  cases,  placed  round 
the  church.  The  legend  is  also  illustrated  by  a  series  of  old  paintings, 
frequently  retouched,  on  the  side-wall  on  the  left.  Ten  old  pictures  of 
the  Apostles,  to  the  left  of  the  S.  entrance,  are  painted  on  slabs  of  slate, 
one  of  them  bearing  the  date  1224.  Under  the  organ ,  by  the  pillar  to 
the  left,  is  a  late-Gothic  relief  in  stone,  representing  tiie  Bearing  of  the 
Cross.  Below  is  the  sarcophagus  of  a  child  belonging  to  the  family  of  the 
Prankish  major-domo.  The  choir  waa  redecorated  by  J.  Osten  in  1897.  — 
The  GoLDBNS  Eammeb,  or  treasury  (admission  1  Jt)^  contains  the  fine  late- 
Romanesque  Reliquary  of  St.  Ursula^  several  other  reliquaries  of  the  Gothic 
ueriod,  a  carved  rock-crystal  chessman  of  the  Garlovingian  period,  and 
Persian  and  late-Boman  textiles. 

The  Marzellen-Str.  leads  hence  to  the  cathedral  (p.  32),  passing 
the  Jesuits^  Church(Y\.  F,  4),  or  Church  of  the  Assumption,  originally 
a  Gothic  church  without  transepts,  but  rebuilt  in  1618-29  in  the 
late  -  Renaissance  style  peculiar  to  this  order.     The  pulpit  and 

4*  ^ 


52    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  e.  Bing-Strasae. 

high-altar  are  overladen  with  decoration  j  the  communictntB*  bench 
is  a  masterpiece  of  workmanship  in  marble.  The  bells  were  cast 
with  the  metal  of  cannons  taken  by  Tilly  at  Magdeburg,  and  pre- 
sented by  him  to  the  church. 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.W.  is  the  church  of  St.  Andreas  (PI.  F,  4), 
with  Romanesque  nave  of  1220  and  a  raised  Gothic  choir  of  1414. 
It  contains  a  fine  brass-gilt  late-Gothic  reliquary  (the  ^Reliquary 
of  the  Maccabees'),  with  reliefs,  in  which  the  remains  of  Albertus 
Magnus  (d.  1280 ;  see  p.  40)  have  reposed  since  1859. 

To  the  "W.  of  the  Jesuits'  Church,  in  the  street  named  'An  den 
Dominikanern',  is  the  imposing  Pffst  Office  (P1.F,4),  completed  in 
1893,  an  early-Gothic  building  with  turrets  at  the  comers.  It  is 
adorned  with  numerous  statues.  Inside  are  busts  of  Post-Master- 
General  Stephan  and  Baron  von  Thum-und-Taxis,  the  founder  of 
the  modern  postal  system  (16th  cent.).  —  Nearly  opposite  is  the 
Reichsbankj  or  Imperial  Bank,  an  early-Gothic  structure  in  red 
sandstone  (1897). — On  the  Rhine  (Kaiser- Friedrich-Ufer ;  tramway 
No.  1,  p.  28),  near  the  N.  end  of  the  old  town,  is  the  church  ot 
St.  Cunibert  (PI.  G,  5),  an  excellent  example  of  the  transition  style, 
consecrated  by  Archbp.  Conrad  in  1248  and  restored  in  1869-71.  It 
is  a  vaulted  basilica  with  two  transepts  and  three  towers. 

The  Intebiob  contains  (in  the  choir  and  transepts)  remains  of  good 
Romanesque  mural  paintings  (restored  hy  OSbbeU)^  a  picture  of  the  school 
of  Meister  Wilhelnu  and  sculptures  of  the  iith  and  16th  centuries  (relief 
of  the  Crucifixion).  At  the  entrance  to  the  choir  is  a  fine  colossal  group 
of  the  Annunciation  (late-Gothic).  The  choir  has  fine  stained  glass  of  the 
I3th  cent.,  and  is  decorated  with  encaustic  mural  paintings  by  Welter  (1860). 
Fine  modern  organ. 

e.  The  Eing-Strasse  and  the  New  Claartera  of  the  City. 

Tramways  (Nos.  5,  2,  and  3),  see  p.  28. 

The  most  striking  feature  in  the  new  town  is  the  wide  and 
handsome  *Eing-StraB8e,  or  series  of  boulevards  laid  out  since  1881, 
31/2  M.  long,  which  completely  encircles  the  old  town,  and  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  fortifications,  purchased  by  the  corporation  for 
590,000i.  Many  of  the  streets  have  been  widened  and  laid  out  with 
flower-beds  and  trees,  fragments  of  the  old  city-wall  and  three  of 
the  mediaBval  gates  are  still  extant,  while  the  modern  buildings  are 
in  many  cases  ambitious  and  striking  edifices. 

Near  the  Vbier-Ringy  the  still  unfluished  S.  end  of  the  Ring- 
Strasse,  on  the  new  quay  on  the  Rhine,  stands  the  Bayenthurm 
(PI.  B,  5),  a  square  pinnacled  tower  of  the  13-14th  cent.,  which  has 
been  restored  along  with  an  adjoining  piece  of  the  city- wall,  and 
no  wJtemporarily  accommodates  Prof.  Joesfs  Ethnographical  Collection 
(adm.,  see  p.  59).  To  the  S.  are  the  Harbour  Station  and  the  Rbmer 
Park  (PI.  A,  5).  —  Passing  the  ipicturesque  Bottmuhle  (PI.  B,  5), 
a  Jtower  surrounded  by  pleastire-grounds,  we  reach  the  handsome 
SeTerins-Thor  (PI.  A.  4),  a  relic  of  the  mediaBval  fortifications.  — 
Adjacent  is  the  charch  of  Si.  Sevtrin  (p.  43). 

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c.  Ring-Strasse.  COLOGNR.  3.  Route,    53 

From  the  Chlodwigs-Platz  (PI.  A,  4)  we  follow  the  Carolinger- 
Ring  to  the  *Sach8en-Ring  (PI.  B,  4,  3),  both  sides  of  which  are  oc- 
cnpled  by  private  villas.  In  th  middle ,  to  the  right,  is  the  Vlre- 
pforte^  a  mediaeval  town-gate,  now  connected  with  a  caf6-r6staurant. 
Farther  on,  on  the  outside  of  a  fragment  of  the  old  city-wall  still  ex- 
tant, is  the  Ulre  Monument,  with  an  aUegorical  relief  of  the  14th  cent, 
(restored  in  1886),  in  memory  of  the  victory  of  the  citizens  under  the 
Overstolzen  (p.  46)  over  500  soldiers  of  Archbishop  Engelbert,  who 
had  stolen  into  the  town,  on  1 5th  Oct.,  1267.  Several  streets  lead  from 
the  Sachsen-Ring  to  the  S.W.  to  the  VoUca-GarUn  (Pi.  A, 2,  3 ;  p.  27), 
with  pleasure-grounds,  a  ake,  and  fountains. 

The  Salier-Ring  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  with  the  Technical  CoUege  (No.  32), 
leads  to  the  Barbarossa-Platz  (PI.  G,  2),  a  square  adorned  with 
gardens  and  a  fountain.  In  the  Hohenstauf en-Ring  (PI.  D,  0, 2)  are 
the  handsome  Hohenstaufen  Baths  (p.  29).  In  the  Ziilpicher-Platz, 
to  the  left,  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Hen-Jem-Kirche^  by  Schmidt  of 
Vienna  (tower  still  to  build).  To  the  N.W.  is  the  Konigs-Platz, 
with  a  Synagogue  (PI.  D,  1) ,  erected  in  the  Romanesque  style  in 
1896-99.  —  In  the  short  Hahsburger-Ring  rises  the  Neue  Stadt- 
Theater  (PI.  D,  2 ;  p.  28),  erected  in  the  baroque  style  by  K.  Moritz 
in  1900-1902.  —  Nearly  opposite,  in  the  Rudolphs-Platt,  an  import- 
ant tramway-centre,  is  the  — 

Hahnenthor  (PI.  E,  2),  a  massive  town-gate  of  the  early  13th 
cent,  with  two  towers,  which  has  been  restored  and  fitted  up  as  a 
Historical  Museum  of  the  City  of  Cologne  (adm.,  see  p.  29;  visitors 
ring).  Its  contents  include  weapons  and  armour,  models  of  old 
buildings  of  Cologne,  town-plans  of  various  periods,  portraits,  ban- 
ners (14-19th  cent.),  arms,  Cologne  stamps,  dies,  and  coins,  and 
weights  and  measures. 

From  the  Hohemollem-Rino  (PI.  E,  F,  2)  and  the  Kaiser-Wil- 
helm-Ring  (PL  F,  2)  streets  lead  to  the  left  to  the  well-kept  Stadt- 
Garten  (p.  27).  In  the  square  in  front  of  it  is  the  new  Protestant 
ChristuS'Kirche  (PI.  F,  2),  by  Wiethase,  the  interior  of  which  also 
deserves  attention.  In  the  Blsmarck-Strasse  is  the  Residenz-Theater 
(PI.  F,  2;  p.  28),  opened  in  1902.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  gardens 
in  the  Kaiser- Wilhelm- Ring,  on  a  rocky  base,  stands  the  Emp. 
WiUiam  J.  Memorial  fPl.  F,  G,  2),  a  monumental  fountain,  35  ft. 
high,  by  R.  Anders  (1897).  Below  the  equestrian  statue  of  the 
emperor  are  seated  figures  of  Father  Rhine  and  Colonia.  —  A  little 
to  the  S.E.  is  the  church  of  St.  Gereon  (p.  50).  —  In  the  Hansa- 
PlatZy  in  the  middle  of  the  Hansa-Ring  (PI.  G,  3, 4),  a  large  fragment 
of  the  old  town-walls,  known  as  the  Oereonsmiihle,  has  been  preserved. 
Adjacent  stands  the  ^Xuseum  of  Industrial  Art  fPl.  G,  3), 
erected  in  1897-1900  from  plans  by  Brantzky,  Admission,  see 
p.  29;  good  catalogue  (1902),  50  pf.  Director,  Dr.  Otto  von  FaJke. 
Ground  Floor.  The  glass-covered  cotirt  is  used  for  temporary  exhibi- 
tions.   Prom  the  vestibule  we  ascend  the  staircase  on  the  right.  —  Room  I. 


i 


54     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  e.  Ring-Strasse, 

Medieeyal  ecclesiastical  furniture  and  ornaments.  In  Case  1  are  •Ivory 
earrings,  including  the  consecration-comb  of  St.  Ueribert  (999-1021),  Arch- 
bishop of  Cologne,  and  an  oriental  ivory  casket  (Idth  cent.)*  The  other 
cases  contain  carved  caskets,  enamels,  embroideries,  and  metal-work. 
Wall  7,  *Antependium  from  the  church  of  St.  Ursula  (12th  cent. ;  figures 
of  saints  of  the  14th  cent.).  Gothic  stained-glass  windows  fl4-16th  cent.).  — 
Room  II.  Domestic  furniture  of  the  Gothic  period  (16th  cent.).  Also, 
Hgures  of  Justice  (ca.  1510)  and  paintings  on  glass  (Adoration  of  the  Magi ; 
1474)  from  the  Rathhaus.  —  Room  III.  Early-Renaissance  furniture,  etc., 
irom  the  Lower  Rhine.  —  Room  IV.  Late-Renaissance  room  (Colopme);  the 
wall-panelling  and  floor  from  the  Spanish  House  (p.  44).  —  Room  V. 
Stoneware,  tiles,  and  building-materials  from  the  Lower  Rhine.  Stained 
glass  of  1538  (Cologne).  —  Room  VI.  Cottage  furniture.  —  Room  VII.  In- 
dustrial art  of  the  Renaissance,  in  Italy,  France,  and  Spain.  Wall  39. 
'Bronze  Door-knocker,  by  Owvanni  da  Bologna.  Case  45.  *Palis8y  Ware. 
Also,  paintings  on  glass  from  Switzerland  and  Cologne  (to  the  left,  St.  Catha- 
rine, by  A,  Woensam).  —  Room  VIII.  German  furniture,  metal-work,  and 
ornaments  of  the  High  Renaissance  period.  *Stained  Glass  from  B&le,  in 
the  style  of  Hans  Holbein  the  Totmger  (formerly  at  St.  Blasien;  1528).  — 
Room  IX.  Baroque  furniture  from  Cologne,  and  blown-glass.  Case  63. 
*Glass  from  Venice  and  Cologne.  —  Gallskibs  X-XII.  Iron  work  from 
the  late-Gothic  period  to  the  18th  century.  In  Gallery  XII  we  may  note  the 
balcony-railing  from  Aiz-la-Chapelle  (1737). 

First  Floor.  Room  XIII  (to  the  right).  Dutch  and  Low  German  fur- 
niture (17th  cent.).  Dutch,  German,  French,  Italian,  and  Swedish  fayence 
(17-18th  cent.).  —  Room  XIV.  German  and  French  furniture  of  the  18th 
century.  —  Room  XV.  European  porcelain  of  the  18th  and  19th  cent.,  the 
German  potteries  being  especially  well  represented  (""Cases  100  and  101, 
Hochst  and  Frankenthal  porcelain).  Wall  108.  Sevres  porcelain.  Case  91. 
Wedgwood  and  other  English  porcelain  (18th  cent.).  —  Gallebt  XXI. 
Cabinets  125-180.  Book-bindings  (14-18th  cent.).  Cabinets  131, 132.  Cutlery 
and  tools  —  Room  XVI.  Textile  fabric*.  —  Room  XVII.  Orieutal  industrial 
art,  including  Chinese  and  Japanese  porcelain  and  Indian  metal-work,  etc. 
—  Room  XVIII  is  used  for  temporary  exhibitions.  —  Room  XIX  represents 
a  Swiss  room  of  the  late-Renaissance  period  (17th  cent.).  —  Gallebt  XX. 
Lace;  furniture-ornaments  in  the  Empire  style  (ca.  18(X)).  —  Gallery  XXI 
is  adjoined  by  the  large  Pallbnbbbo  Saloon,  handsomely  fitted  up  from 
M.  LecMer't  designs  at  the  expense  of  Herr  PaUenberg  (d.  1900),  and  con- 
taining a  portion  of  the  municipal  silver-plate.  —  Gallebt  XXII.  Embroi- 
deries; modern  medals  and  plaquettes. 

The  first  floor  also  accommodates  th^tvaluable  Library  of  Industrial  Art, 
founded  in  1889,  including  a  collection  of  patterns  (two  catalogues,  25  pf. 
each).    Adm.,  see  p.  29. 

Farther  on,  on  the  right,  is  the  Commercial  High  School,  built  in 
1900 ,  beyond  which  the  HanBa-Rlng  is  crossed  by  the  iron  arches 
of  the  railway. 

The  Eigelstein-TlLor  (PI.  G,  4),  the  N.  fortified  tower  of  the 
mediaeval  entrenchments,  was  restored  in  1891.  —  The  Ring-Strasse 
is  terminated  by  the  Deutsche  Ring  (PI.  H,  5),  which  is  embellished 
with  flower-beds,  ponds,  and  fountains.  A  monument  to  Emp. 
Frederick  III.  is  to  be  erected  at  its  E.  end. 


The  *Zoologiea]  Churden  (admission,  see  p.  27),  which  lies  to 
the  N.  of  the  town,  about  V/4  M.  from  the  Central  Station,  may  be 
reached  by  tramway  (No.  1,  p.  28)  or  by  steamboat  (p.  291.  From 
the  Deutsche  Ring  it  is  approached  vift  the  Riehler-Strasse  (Pl.  H,  5; 
tramway  No.  5).  Grounds  well  laid  out ;  fine  collection  of  animals.  — 

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DEUTZ.  3.  Route.    55 

Adjacent  is  the  Botanical  Garden  of  the  'Flora  Co.'  (adm.,  see 
p.  27),  with  a  handsome  winter-garden,  a  concert-room,  a  Victoria 
Regia  honse,  and  an  Aquarium,  On  the  S.  side  of  the  garden  is  the 
Summer  Theatre  (p.  28).  —  Beyond  the  Zoological  Garden  is  the 
Sport'Platz,  with  cycling  track,  tennis  courts,  shooting  ranges,  and 
restaurant.  —  Ahout  ^/^  M.  farther  on  is  a  bridge-of-boats  leading 
to  Maiheim  (p.  25). — Near  the  end  of  Tramway  No.  4  (p.  28),  in  the 
Neusser-Str.,  some  way  from  town,  is  the  new  Racecourse  (comp.  p.  28). 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  near  the  terminus  of  the  Lindenthal 
tramway  (No.  7,  p.  28),  is  the  Stadtwald  (Town  Wood)^  a  newly 
planted  district  4i80  acres  in  extent.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  older 
park  of  the  Kitchsburg  (restaurant).  The  small  restaurant  (*Stadt- 
waldschenke*)  commands  a  good  view  of  Cologne. 

The  extensive  Cemetery,  on  the  road  to  Aix-la-Ghapelle,  V*'''  from  the 
Hahnen-Thor  (PI.  B,  2;  tramway  No.  8,  see  p.  28),  contains  several  fine 
monaments,  including  those  of  Prof.  Wallraf  and  Herr  Bichartz  (p.  39), 
memorial  monaments  of  the  wars  of  1866  and  1870-71,  and  a  monument 
to  the  memory  of  French  prisoners  who  died  here. 


On  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  opposite  Cologne,  lies  Deutg 
(railway-station,  see  pp.  26, 62, 65),  the  tete-de-pont  of  Cologne,  and 
the  Roman  Castra  Divitensia.  It  existed  as  a  fortress  down  to  1114, 
after  which  it  was  repeatedly  destroyed,  as  a  settlement  here  would 
have  been  inconsistent  with  the  privileges  of  Cologne.  Since  1816 
Deutz  has  been  fortified  by  the  Prussians  in  connection  with  Co- 
logne. The  imposing  Romart  Catholic  Church  (PI.  D,  6),  by  Pickel, 
is  in  the  Romanesque  style  and  was  finished  in  1896.  The  treasury 
contains  the  sumptuous  shrine  of  St.  Heribert,  of  the  year  1147. 
The  Protestant  Johannis-Kirche  (PI.  E,  6)  was  consecrated  in  1861 . 

4.   From  Cologne  to  Nenss  (BUsseldorf),  Crefeld, 
and  C19V6. 

74Va  M.  Railway  to  Cleve  in  2Va-3V4  hrs.  (fares  9  UIT  60,  7  UT  20, 
i  JtSO  pf.)-,  to  Diisseldorf  in  I-IV2  hr.  (fares  8^1^20,  2Ur40,  1^1^60  pf.). 

Cologne^  see  R.  3.  —  IV4  M.  Nippes;  5  M.  Longerich.  —  9  M. 
Worringert  J  perhaps  the  Buruncum  of  the  Romans. 

In  a  battle  fought  here  in  1288  between  the  citizens  of  Cologne  and  the 
Brabanters  under  the  Duke  of  Berg  on  one  side ,  and  the  Archbishop  of 
Quelders  on  the  other,  the  struggle  between  the  burghers  and  their  arch- 
bishop was  decided  in  favour  of  the  former  (comp.  p.  31). 

13  M.  Dormageriy  the  Roman  Dumomagus. 

About  2V2  M.  to  the  B. ,  on  the  Rhine ,  lies  Zont  (Bender's  Inn) ,  the 
Roman  Sontium^  a  small  town  with  numerous  towers,  which  once  belonged 
to  Cologne.  It  is  one  of  the  best  Rhenish  examples  of  a  mediaeval  fortified 
town.  The  Premonstratensian  abbey  of  Knechttteden  ^  with  a  beautiful 
Romanesque  church  (Oilhaeher  Dom)  begun  in  1138  and  restored  after  the 
fire  of  1867,  is  situated  3  M.  to  the  W. 

I8V2  M.  Norf.  To  the  right,  farther  on,  the  railway  bridge  of 
the  Nenss  and  Diisseldorf  line  is  seen  In  the  distance  fp.  611. 

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56    Route  4.  CREFELD      »  From  Cologne 

2272  M.  NeuBS  (Rheinischer  JHof;  Bror$;  Langenheckmann),  men- 
tioned as  a  Roman  fortress  in  the  annals  of  the  Batavian  war,  under 
the  name  Noveaium,  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Germany.  Pop. 
28,500.  In  1474  it  was  in  vain  besieged  by  Charles  the  Bold  of 
Burgundy  for  forty-eight  weeks,  and  in  1586  it  was  conquered  and 
treated  with  great  severity  by  Alexander  ^Farnese.  The  ^Quirtnus- 
Kirche,  an  interesting  building  in  the  transition -style,  begun  in 
1209  by  the  master  Wolbero,  is  a  basilica  with  nave  and  aisles,  and 
with  towers  over  the  crossing  and  over  the  W.  end,  which  externally 
forms  a  second  transept.  Above  the  aisles  run  galleries,  and  some  of 
the  windows  are  peculiarly  shaped.  The  rich  ornamentation  of  the 
W.  part  of  the  building  demands  attention.  The  extensive  crypt 
dates  from  the  11th  century.  The  E.  tower,  which  was  re-erected 
after  its  destruction  by  Are  in  1741,  is  crowned  with  a  Statue  of 
8t,  Quirinus,  the  patron-saint  of  the  town,  who  was  probably  a 
Roman  soldier.  —  The  late-Gothic  Raihhaus  (1634-38),  remodelled 
in  the  'Empire'  style  at  the  close  of  the  18th  cent,,  contains  a  large 
hall  adorned  with  a  series  of  historical  paintings  by  Janssen.  In  the 
Oberthofy  a  large  gate-house  of  the  14th  cent,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
town,  with  two  towers,  is  a  small  collection  of  Roman  antiquities.  — 
Neuss  formerly  lay  close  to  the  Rhine,  with  which  it  is  now  con- 
nected by  a  short  canal,  ending  in  a  busy  harbour. 

From  Neuss  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  DiUseldor/^  see  R.  5;  to  Neenen- 
Neutfferk  and  Rheydt-Viersen^  see  p.  61;  to  DUren,  see  p.  15. 

A  branch -line  leads  from  ifeuss  via  Heerdt  to  Obereassel^  on  the 
Rhine,  opposite  Diisseldorf,  and  connected  with  it  by  electric  tramway. 
DUsseldorf,  see  p.  20. 

28  M.  Osterath.  —  32Y2  M.  Oppum,  the  junction  for  the  line 
to  Uerdingen  (^Ruhrort,  Duisburg;  p.  62). 

34  M.  Grefeld.  —  Hotels.  *Gkbfbldbr  Hop  (PI.  b;  B,  4),  Hoch-Str.  60, 
R.  from  21/4,  B.  1,  B.SJt;  *Beltz  (Pl.a;  B,  3),  at  the  corner  of  Rhein-8tr. 
and  Friedrich-Str.,  R.  2V4,  B.  1,  D.  2i/^Jt;  •Hbkps  (PI.  c?  C,3),  Ost-Wall; 
GsuNBR  Wald  (PI.  d;  C,4),  Hoch-Str.  8:  Stadt  MeNCHKH,  Hoch-Str.  43; 
ROmischbr  Kaisbr,  Keasser-Str.,  B.  AB.2^/2J(;  Gbrmania,  at  the  station, 

—  Restaurants.  Emler, 'K6ni%8-8iT.  20,  D.  from  V/zJt;  WalUnburg^  with 
garden,  i/«  M.  from  the  town ;  StaM  MUnchen^  Rdmitcher  Kaiser ^  see  above.  — 
Wine  at  *Kraeker'»  and  at  the  Bodega^  Ostwall  64  and  173.  —  Baths  at  the 
*Btadibad^  Neusser-Str.  58.  —  Electric  Tramways  through  the  chief  streets. 

—  Steam  Tramways  to  DHueldorf  (p.  20),  Uerdingen  (p.  62),  J?(Ut,  and 
FisehOn.  —  XT.  8.  Consul,  T.  R.  Wdllaee^  Esq. 

Crefeld,  with  107,000  inhab.  (13,000  in  1830;  1/4  Protestant), 
an  important  railway-centre  and  the  seat  of  the  chief  silk  and  velvet 
manufactories  in  Germany,  is  first  mentioned  by  name  in  a  docu- 
ment of  1166  and  obtained  municipal  privileges  in  1373.  On  the 
extinction  of  the  Counts  of  Moers  in  1600  it  came  into  the  hands 
of  the  Princes  of  Nassau  and  Orange,  and  in  1702  it  fell  by  inherit- 
ance to  the  crown  of  Prussia.  The  manufactories  of  Grefeld  and  its 
environs  at  present  employ  about  20,000  power  and  other  looms  and 
produce  fabrics  of  an  annual  value  of  about  4,000,000f.,  vying  with 
those  of  Lyons,  and  largely  exported  to  England  and  America. 

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to  Cleve,  KEMPEN.  4.  Route.    57 

In  tlie  West-Wall  is  the  Rathhaus  (PI.  B,  3),  with  good  frescoes 
(Battle  of  Arminius)  by  P.  Janssen.  —  In  the  same  street,  farther 
to  the  S.,  is  the  Empbkor  William  Mttsbum  (PI.  B,  4),  completed 
in  1897  (open  daily,  except  Mon.,  10  to  1  and  2  to  4  or  5;  adm.  50 pf., 
free  on  Sun.  and  Wed.  afternoons). 

On  the  staircase  is  a  statue  of  Emp.  William  I.,  \j  Eberlein.  —  Qrovvd 
Floob  (r.).  Rhenish  wood- carvings,  especially  statuettes  of  the  Virgin  and 
saints  by  Galcar  masters ;  pottery,  furniture,  weapons,  glass,  and  china  of 
the  Lower  Rhine  (18th  cent.)^  modem  fayence  and  furniture;  objects  from 
E.  Asia.  —  FiBST  Floob.  At  the  head  of  the  staircase.  The  Blacksmith,  a 
figure  by  Const.  Meunier  (lBy6).  Sculptures  of  the  Italian  Benaissance 
(Luca  della  Robbia;  Donatello);  paintings  (portraits  of  Emp.  William  I,, 
LeoXm.,  and  Bismarck,  by  Lenbach;  Moon-rise,  by  Giltoul)-,  plaster  casts. 

The  Textile  Academy  (PL  A,  6)  contains  an  interesting  Textile 
Mttseum,  and  the  rooms  are  decorated  with  frescoes  by  A.  Banr, 
referring  to  the  silk-lndnstry. 

In  the  Ost-Wall  are  monuments  in  honour  of  ComeUus  de  Orei/f 
(PL  6;  0,  2),  the  philanthropist,  Karl  Wilhelm  (PI.  7;  0,  3),  com- 
poser of  the  *Wacht  am  Rhein'  (1854),  and  Moltke  (PL  9;  C,  4). 
To  the  N.E.,  in  the  Bismarck-Platz,  rises  a  bronze  statue  of  Bis- 
marck (PL  4;  D,  1),  by  Eberlein. 

On  the  Gladbach  road,  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  Crefeld,  is  a  memorial  of 
the  battle  of  Crefeld,  in  which  Ferdinand  of  Brunswick,  one  of  Frederick 
the  Great's  generals,  defeated  the  French  on  June  23rd,  1758.  —  The  B^l- 
ser  Berffy  4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Crefeld,  is  often  visited  thence  either  by 
railway  or  on  foot. 

411/2  M.Eempen  (Herriger;  Euler;  Keuter,  with  old  wall-paint- 
ings), an  ancient  town  with  6700  inhabitants.  The  Stifts-Kirche,  a 
Gothic  edifice  with  a  Romanesque  tower,  contains  some  fine  sedilia 
(carved  by  Joh.  Gruter  in  1486)  and  choir-staUa  (1493).  The  Castle, 
with  its  three  towers ,  which  now  contains  the  gymnasium ,  was 
built  in  1380-84  by  Friedrich  III.  of  Saarwerden,  Archbishop  of 
Cologne.  The  Kuhthor,  a  brick  building  of  the  14th  cent.,  recently 
restored ,  contains  the  Municipal  Collection  of  Antiquities  (key  at 
the  Rathhaus),  including  cabinets,  wood-carvings  of  the  16-17th 
cent.,  portraits,  weapons,  and  Roman  and  Prankish  antiquities. 
Thomas  a  Kempis  (1380-1471),  supposed  author  of  the  'Imitatio 
Christi',  is  commemorated  by  a  bronze  statue  (by  Piedboeuf;  1891) 
in  the  Kirch-Platz.  Branch-lines  to  VerUo  (p.  61)  and  Viersen  (p.  61). 

The  fertile  district  now  assumes  a  Dutch  character.  46  M.  Aide- 
kerk;  48V2  M.  Nieukerk, 

53  m.  Geldem  (Hdtel  Dahlhausen,  very  fair;,  with  6400  inhab., 
once  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Guelders,  has  belonged  to  Prussia 
since  1 71 3 .  Our  line  here  intersects  the  railway  from  Holland  (  Venlo , 
Straelen)  to  Bremen  and  Hamburg. 

The  train  crosses  the  Mers.  681/2  M.  Kevelaer  (frequented  by 
pilgrims).  To  the  right  lies  Wiwen,  with  the  handsome  restored 
chateau  of  Baron  von  Loe.  —  62  M.  Weeze. 

66 V2  M.  Goch  (H6U  Qisberts,  very  fair;,  with  9100  inhab.,  an 
Important  place  in  the  middle  ages,  also  a  station  on  the  line  from 

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58    RouU  4,  XANTEN.  From  Cologne 

Boxtel  to  Wesel ,  traversed  by  the  express  trains  from  Berlin   to 
Flushing  (Berlin  to  London  in  21  hrg.).  Pop.  8000. 

Ebom  Goch  to  Wbsbl,  24V2  M.,  railway  in  V*-!*/*  hr.  (fares  3  Jf  30, 
2  ur  40,  1  Ur  60 pf.).  —  3  M.  PrwsHtch-Uedem. 

1272  M.  Xanten  (Hffvelmann,  pens.  5  Jf;  NitderrheinUeher  G(utho/)^  a 
town  of  great  antiquity,  with  3700  intiab. ,  is  mentioned  in  the  'Nibelungea- 
lied\  as  the  birthplace  of  Siegfried  the  dragon-slayer  (p.  94).  The  Castra 
Vetera  of  the  Romans,  founded  by  Augustus  between  B.C.  16  and  13  as 
winter-quarters  for  two  legions,  and  the  headquarters  of  Roman  operations 
on  the  Lower  Rhine  until  its  destruction  by  the  Batavians  in  71  A.D.,  lay  on 
the  Fiirstenberg  (see  below).  The  ^Collegiate  Church  of  St.  Victor,,  erected 
in  1213-1512,  is  a  gem  of  Gothic  architecture,  illustrating  the  entire  devel- 
opment of  the  style.  The  two  Romanesque  towers  0^16  ft.  high)  belonged 
to  an  earlier  structure.  The  interior  is  adorned  with  paintings  by  Bart, 
de  Bruyn  (1534)  and  other  artists,  and  contains  fine  wood -carvings,  tapestry, 
and  stained  glass  (14-17th  cent.).  By  the  piers  are  lifesise  statues  of  the 
14- 16th  centuries.  The  wood-screen  is  of  stone ,  and  the  entire  choir  ia 
enclosed  by  an  early -Gothic  panelled  screen,  covered  by  old  tapestry. 
Between  the  choir  and  the  sanctuary  is  a  light  brass  screen,  with  three 
urches.  In  front  of  the  high-altar  is  a  fine  bronze  candelabrum  from 
Maastricht,  in  the  form  of  an*arch  (1501).  The  sacristy  contains  Bome  valuable 
ecclesiastical  vestments,  including  those  of  St,  Bernhard  (11th  cent.),  while 
there  are  some  fine  reliquaries  and  ivory  carvings  of  the  5- 15th  cent,  in 
the  treasury.  —  In  front  of  the  S.  portal  are  large  Stations  of  the  Cross, 
dating  from  1525-36.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Michael  (15th  cent.)  and  the  Ckoer- 
Thar  (1393)  are  also  interesting  buildings.  The  Rathha/ut  contains  a  good 
collection  of  Roman  antiquities  (adm.  50  pf.).  —  Fine  view  from  BcUotr 
FUrstenberff,  1  M.  to  the  S.E.,  on  the  hill  of  that  name.  —  Steamer  to  Wesel, 

To  the  N.  of  (16  M.)  Birten  is  a  Roman  amphitheatre,  320  ft.  in  dia- 
meter. —  Beyond  (IS^/z  M.)  BGderich,  also  a  station  on  the  Wesel  and  Venlo 
line  (p.  19),  the  train  crosses  the  Rhine,  and  reaches  (2479  M.)  Wesel  (p.  18)* 

69  M.  Pfalzdorf^  a  large  village  near  the  Eeichiwald  (p.  59),  with 
2500  inhab.,  founded  by  emigrants  from  thePalatinate(Pfalz)  in  1741 . 

741/2  M.  Cleve.  —  Hotels  (all  with  gardens).  Bad-H6tbl  &  HdTBi. 
Stykum,  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  in  the  Thiergarten,  R.  3-4,  pens.  5-8  Ulf, 
connected  with  the  Friedrich-Wilhelmsbad,  a  hydropathic;  Prinzbnhop 
(p.  59),  on  an  eminence  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town,  with  a  large  park;  Hotel 
Robbers,  in  the  Thiergarten,  R.  3,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  7  Jt;  Matwald,  on 
the  hill  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  R.  3,  B.  1,  D.  8,  pens.  1  jt;  HdTBL  Loock, 
opposite  the  post-oMce ;  Hotkl  Holtzbm,  near  the  palace ;  Rhbinibchbb  Hop, 
at  the  station.  —  Beer:  Lampe;  Deutscher  Kaiser;  Grosser  KwrfHrtt  (stucco 
ceiling  of  1677).  —  Cafi  -  Restaurant  Kaiser  Friedrich,  Haagsche-Str. 

Yisitors'  Tax,  for  a  stay  of  more  than  a  week,  b  Jl,  —  Kneipp  Insii- 
tiUe  (Dr.  Bergmann),  to  the  8.W.  of  the  town. 

Pott  Of&ce,  Haagsche-Strasse. 

CUve^  Dutch  Jncc/'(pop.  15,000),  once  the  capital  of  the  duchy  of 
that  name,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  wooded  hill, 
which  at  an  early  period  formed  the  bank  of  the  Rhine,  and  is 
much  frequented  by  Dutch  families  in  summer.  The  chalybeate 
spring  is  an  additional  attraction. 

On  a  picturesque  eminence  in  the  town  rises  the  Palace  of  the 
former  dukes,  generally  called  the  Schwanenbwrg  (now  a  law-court 
and  prison),  with  the  lofty  ^Schwanenthurm  (line  view),  erected  by 
Adolph  I.  in  1439,  on  the  site  of  a  Roman  tower.  In  the  courtyard 
are  Romanesque  portals  (now  built  up)  and  a  Roman  altar  found  in 

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to  CUve.  CLEVE.  4.  Route,    59 

the  vicinity.  The  legend  of  the  *Knight  of  the  Swan',  so  widely 
known  from  Wagner's  opera  of  ^Lohengrin',  is  localised  at  Cleve, 
where  an  appropriate  monument  has  heen  erected  in  the  Eleine 
Markt.  A  Statue  of  the  Elector  John  Sigismund  (d.  1619)  by  Bayerle, 
erected  near  the  palace  in  1859,  is  a  memorial  of  the  annexation 
of  the  district  to  the  Electorate  of  Brandenburg  in  1609.  —  The 
Raihhaua  contains  a  few  antiquities  (including  some  good  Roman 
bronzes)  and  some  pictures. 

The  Gothic  Stifts-Kirche^  an  imposing  brick  edifice,  erected  in 
1341-56,  contains  monuments  of  Counts  and  Dukes  of  Cleve,  the 
finest  those  of  Adolph  VI.  (d.  1394)  and  Margaretha  von  Berg 
(d.  1425). 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  town  lies  the  Prinzenhof,  erected  in  1664  by 
Prince  Maurice  of  Orange  (d.  1679),  Governor  of  Cleve  (appointed 
by  the  Elector  of  Brandenburg),  and  now  a  hotel  and  pension.  The 
Nassau  AlMe,  with  its  old  lime-trees,  extends  along  the  hill-slope 
to  the  Stembusch,  whence  a  road  leads  to  the  left  to  the  Hdtel- 
Pension  Haus  Freudenberg  (pens.  5  UJf),  formerly  a  hunting-lodge 
of  Prince  Maurice,  I1/2  M.  from  Cleve,  and  thence  to  ^Berg  und 
ThaV  (H6t.-Pen8.  Sonderkamp),  another  summer-resort.  —  Towards 
theW.  lie  the  hills  known  as  the  Thiergarten,  laid  out  with  pleasant 
park -like  grounds  (1654),  which  adjoin  the  road  and  railway  to 
Nymwegen.  —  The  Clever  Berg  (335  ft.),  to  the  S.  of  the  Thier- 
garten,  commands  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  on  the  Lower 
Rhine.  In  the  foreground  lies  Cleve,  and  farther  off  the  villages 
of  Qualburg  and  Bed  burg,  Chateau  Moyland,  and  the  towns  of  Calcar, 
Xanten,  Wesel,  Rees,  Emmerich,  etc. 

At  the  village  of  Brienen^  2V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Cleve,  is  a  monument 
erected  in  1811  to  Johanna  Sebtu^  whom  Goethe  celebrated  for  her  heroism 
during  an  inundation  of  the  Rhine.  —  The  Retchtteald,  IVa  M.  to  the  S.W. 
of  Cleve,  is  the  largest  forest  in  the  Rhenish  province  (17.000  acres). 

Beyond  Cleve  the  Rhenish  Railway  pursues  its  N.  direction,  crosses 
the  Rhine  by  means  of  a  steam -ferry  near  stat.  Elten^  and  at  stat. 
ZeventMr  unites  with  the  Dutch  line  to  Amsterdam  and  Rotterdam  (R.  2) ; 
see  also  Baedeker'^t  Belgium  and  Holland. 

To  Nymwegen  by  railway  via  Oroesbeek  and  Cranenburg  in  40  min.  5 
comp.  Baedeker^s  Belgium  and  Holland. 

From  Cleve  diligence  once  daily  in  IV4  hr.  to  (8  M.)  Calear  (see  below). 
On  the  way  it  passes  (5  M.)  Chateau  Koyland,  an  imposing  brick  building 
of  the  15th  cent.,  restored  by  Zwirner  (1854  et  seq.).  Its  owner,  Baron 
von  Stcengracht,  possesses  the  finest  private  picture-gallery  on  the  Lower 
Rhine,  comprising  good  examples  of  Frans  Hals,  Van  Dyck,  Van  der  Heist, 
JMoreelse,  Honthorst,  Jan  Steen,  Palamedes,  Brueghel,  Hobbema,  and  Wy- 
nants  (ftdm.  on  application  in  the  court). 

Calcar  (Kuypers),  a  small  town  with  2000  inhab.,  was  in  1490-1540  the 
seat  of  a  school  of  wood-carving,  which  derived  its  inspiration  from  Hol- 
land. It  was  also  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  General  Seyd- 
litz  (d.  1773),  the  conqueror  at  Rossbach,  a  handsome  monument  of  whoip, 
by  Bayerle,  adorns  the  market-place.  The  CJmreh  of  St.  Mcholag,  a  Gothic 
structure  of  the  15th  cent.,  is  a  veritable  museum  of  wood-carving,  with 
its  alta^  choir-stalls,  and  candelabra.  Its  chief  glory  is  the  high-altar 
(1498-1600),  with  wings  painted  by  Jan  Joest  of  Haarlem,  who  worked  at 
Calcar  in  1506-8.    By  St.  George's  altar  is  a  predella,  with  seven  saints  by 


60    Route  5.  GLADBAOH. 

HdmHeh  Ditnwegge^  and  over  St.  Anne's  altar  is  a  Death  of  the  Virgin  by 
a  Westphalian  master  of  about  1460.  The  Rathhau*  (1436-45)  and  several 
brick  houses  with  gables  also  deserve  notice.  —  Calcar  is  also  connected 
by  diligence  with  Goch  (7»/2  M.)  and  Xanten  OVa  M.). 

5.  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Diisseldorf  vi&  Gladbach. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  54. 
64  M.  Railway  in  1V4-3  hrs.  (fares  7  UT,  5  UIT  30,  3  UIT  50  pf-i    express 
8Ur80,  6ur50,  4Ur6U  pf.). 

This  railway  has  two  stations  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  one  at  the  Mar- 
schier-Thor,  the  other  at  the  Templerbend  (comp.  p.  3).  At  (3^2  M.) 
Richterich  the  Maastricht  Line  diverges  to  the  left.  The  tall  chim- 
neys near  (5V2  M.)  Kohlscheidt  belong  to  coal-mines  (branch-line 
to  Wiirselen,  p.  16).  About  IV2  M.  from  Kohlscheidt  rises  the 
picturesque  ruin  of  Wiihelmatein  (restaurant).  The  train  now  de- 
scends into  the  pleasing  and  partly  wooded  valley  of  the  Wurm, 

At  (8  M .)  Hersogenrath  (Ritzerfeld ;  Prinz  zu  Schaumburg-Lippe) , 
French  RolduCj  a  small  town  with  an  old  castle.  The  suppressed 
Abbey  of  Klosterrath  (now  a  school)  crowns  a  height  on  the  left. 
The  church)  lately  decorated  by  M.  Gobbels,  dates  from  1209,  and 
its  crypt  from  1108.  Branch-lines  to  Stolberg  (p.  14)  and  to  Sittard. 

On  the  left,  near  (I2Y2M.)  Palenberg,  rise  the  chateaux  ot  Rim- 
burg  and  Zweibruggen^  and  at  (15^2  M.)  Oeilenkirchen  (Harst)  that  of 
Trips.  The  train  then  traverses  the  undulating  Duchy  of  Julich  or 
Juliers,  and  between  r20  M.)  Lindem  and  (241/2  M.)  Baal  crosses 
the  valley  of  the  Roer  (p.  16).  —  27V2  M.  Erkelenz  (Adler),  an  old 
town  with  4600inhab.,  the  picturesque  ruins  of  a  castle  destroyed  in 
1674,  and  a  late-Gothic  Rathhaus.  The  church  of  the  14th  cent, 
has  a  new  iron  spire  270  ft  high.  Bronze  statue  of  Emp.  William  I., 
by  Kilnne  (1898).  —  33  M.  Wickrath,  with  a  government  stud. 

35V2  M.  Bheydt  (Jobges,  R.  &  B.  from  3,  D.  2  Jf;  Schmidt; 
tramway  to  Gladbach  and  Odenkirchen),  with  34,000  inhab.,  is 
the  junction  of  the  Gladbach -Roerm on d- Antwerp  line  (see  p.  61) 
and  of  the  Left-Rhenish  line  to  Qladbach,  Neersen-Neuwerkf  and 
Neuss  (p.  56;  17  M.,  in  1  hr.). 

Abont  6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Rheydt  is  situated  SehloM  Dyck,  the  chateau 
of  Prince  Salm-Beifferscheid-Dyck  (lately  restored),  with  beautiful  grounds, 
and  a  garden  which  boast^  of  the  most  complete  collection  of  cacti  in 
Europe.  (Good  inn.  opposite  the  gate  of  the  chateau.)  —  Schloss  Liedberg, 
3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Dyck,  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

38M.  Gladbach  (^Herfs,  R.2-4,  B.  1,  D.  with  wine  3,  S.  2y^J(; 
Kothen;  Deutsches  JELaus,  Europdischer  Hof,  Rheinischer  Hof,  these 
three  nearer  the  station;  tramway  from  the  station  to  Rheydt) 
is  an  important  manufacturing  town  of  69,000  Inhab.,  and  one  of 
the  centres  of  the  Rhenish  cotton,  woollen,  iron,  and  engine-making 
industries.  To  distinguish  it  from  another  place  of  the  same  name 
(p.  26)  it  is  termed  Munchen-Qladbach^  the  epithet  Munchen  (i.e. 
'Monchen'  or  monks)  being  derived  from   a  Benj^dictine  abbey, 

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VIERSEN.  6.  RouU      61 

founded  in  972  and  suppressed  in  1802,  to  which  the  town  owes 
its  origin.  Admission  to  any  of  the  numerous  factories  or  dye-works 
is  nsually  granted  by  the  owner  on  application.  The  imposing  brick 
edifice  to  the  right  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  station  is  a  spinning 
and  weaying  factory.  Several  important  insurance  societies  have 
their  headquarters  here.  The  early-Gothic  choir  of  the  Munster- 
KirchCj  consecrated  in  1275,  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Meis- 
ter  Gerard  (p.  32);  the  Romanesque  crypt  and  the  basement  of 
the  tower  are  of  the  11th  cent.,  the  nave  of  the  beginning  of  the 
13th  century.  The  treasury  contains  a  fine  late-Gothic  portable 
altar  and  other  interesting  objects.  In  the  Eaiser-Platz  is  a  statue 
of  Emp,  William  I.  by  Eberlein,  and  in  front  of  the  station  is  one 
of  Biamarck  by  Schaper.  —  The  terrace  of  the  Erholung  Club  (intro- 
dnotion  necessary) ,  situated  in  a  shady  park,  and  the  old  Abbey 
afford  good  views  of  the  Gladbach  manufacturing  district,  which  in- 
cludes the  towns  of  Gladbach,  Rheydt,  Vlersen,  Odenkirchen,  Diil- 
ken,  and  Siichteln.  The  continuation  of  the  Bahnhof-Strasse  leads 
to  the  Kaiser- Parky  in  which  is  the  Kaiser-Friedrich-Halle ,  for 
concerts  and  theatrical  entertainments. 

Gladbach  is  the  junction  of  the  Crefeld  and  Hochfeld-Duitbwg  line 
(see  B.  6).  Gladbach  is  also  on  the  Bheydt  &  Neuss  Railway  (Left  Bhenish 
Line:  see  p.  60),  with  two  stations,  (?Iad&acA-Bdl:e/  and  Gladbach- Speik. 

Fbom  Gladbach  to  Antwerp,  99  M.,  railway  in  ihrs.,  see  Baedekev^s 
Belgium  and  Holland. 

From  Gladbach  to  Juliers  (Jillich)^  Eschtoeiier^  and  Stolberg^  see  p.  15. 

The  line  now  turns  towards  the  E.,  traverses  a  flat,  arable,  and 
partly  wooded  tract,  and  leads  to  (41  M.)  Corschenbroich^  (43  M.) 
Kldnenbroichy  and  (48V2  M.)  KeuBS  (p.  66),  the  junction  of  the 
Aix-la-Chapelle-Diisseldorf,  Cologne- Crefeld,  and  Dtiren-Neuss 
lines.  The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge  of  four  arches, 
beyond  which ,  to  the  left,  opens  a  fine  view  of  Diisseldorf.  —  52*72^. 
maseldorf-Bilk;  54  M.  Diisseldorf,  Central  Station  (p.  20). 

6.  From  Gladbach  to  Crefeld,  Duisburg,  and  Essen. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  54. 

39  M.  Bailway  in  IVz-S  hra.  (fares  5  UT,  3  UT  80,  2  uT  50  pf.). 

Mur%chen-Qladbaehy  see  above.  —  3  M.  Helenabrunn.  —  51/2  M. 
Vierien  {Qansen;  Dahlhausen^  both  very  fair),  a  town  with  24,800 
iuhab.  and  extensiye  manufactories  of  silks,  plush,  and  velvet 
ribbons.  The  late-Gothic  parish-church  dates  from  the  13th  century. 
The  Bohenbuschy  with  a  park,  commands  an  extensive  view, 

A  line  diverges  hence  to  VeiUo^  the  junction  of  the  Dutch  railways  to 
Flushing  and  Rotterdam^  to  the  W.,  and  to  the  8.  to  Maastricht.  See 
Baedeker'* s  Belgium  and  Holland. 

Fbom  Vibbsbn  to  Moebs  vii  Cbbfbld,  25  M.,  railway  with  numerous 
ramifications.  At  (l*/4  M.)  SUchteln  the  line  forks,  one  branch  runniog  via 
Oedt.,  Kempen  (p.  57),  and  HUls  (p.  57)  to  (16  M.)  Crefeld  (N.  Station),  while 
the  main  line  proceeds  via  Vorst  to  (13  M.)  Crefeld.  —  25  M.  Koera  (Devitches 
Haui,  B.  &  B.  21/2  UT;  Kdniglicher  Hof),  an  old  town  with  6200  inhab.,  is  the 
junction  for  Homberg  and  for  the  new  line  from  Rheinhausen  to  Cleve  (p.  58). 


62    R(mU  7.  ALTKNBERG. 

On  the  latter,  71/2  M.  to  the  K.  of  Moers,  is  Bheinberg  (Bienen,  B.  A  B.  21/2  »^t 
an  ancient  place  with  2500  inhab.,  well-known  for  its  'boonekamp'  bitters. 

The  Ciefeld  line  next  crosses  the  Nord-Canal,  begun  by  Na- 
poleon,  but  never  completed,  and  the  river  Nier8y  and  then  traverses 
some  drained  marshland.    9  M.  Anrath;  14  M.  Crefeld  fp.  56). 

I6V2  M.  Oppum^  the  junction  for  Neuss  and  Dusfeldorf  (p.  56). 

18V2'M.  Uerdingen  {Kellner,  fair),  a  commercial  town  on  the  Rhine 
(6600inhab.),  with  extensive  liqueur  and  sugar  manufactories,  is  the 
junction  of  the  line  to  Homherg  and  Buhrort.  —  23  M.  Rhdnhaustn^ 
with  a  harbour  and  iron-works,  is  the  junction  for  the  new  railway 
via  Trompet,  Moers,  Rheinberg,  Calcar,  etc.,  to  Cleve  (p.  58). 

The  railway  crosses  the  RMnt  by  a  bridge  1040  yds.  long.  — 
25  M.  Hochfeld,  —  271/2  M.  Dniiburg  (p.  19).  —  31  M.  Styrum, 
the  junction  for  (2  M.)  Oberhauaen  (p.  19)  and  (51/2  M.)  Ruhr- 
ort  (p.  19). 

32V2  M.  Molheim  an  der  Enlir  (Hdtel  Im  Zulast,  Retze,  R.  21/4- 
3  Jf),  a  prettily  situated  town  with  38,300  inhab.,  surrounded  with 
coal-pits  and  iron- works.  —  38  M.  Altendorf.  As  Essen  Is  approach- 
ed we  gain  a  view  to  the  left  of  Krupp's  Cast  Steel  Works,  with  their 
huge  chimneys,  a  vast  establishment  of  world-wide  celebrity  (about 
25,000  workmen). 

39  M.  Essen  (Essen erHof,  Rheinisoher  Hof,  Berliner  Hof,  etc.), 
see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany, 

7.  From  Cologne  to  Elberfeld  and  Hagen. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  54. 
43Vi  M.  Railway,  express  in  IV2,   ordinary  trains  in  2V4  hrs. ;    fares 

5  ur,  3  ur  60,  or  4  ur  50,  surao,  2ur2o  pf. 

Cologne,  see  p.  26.  The  quick  trains  start  from  the  central 
station ;  slow  trains  also  from  the  Right-Rhenish  station  at  Kalk- 
Deutz,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine  (see  p.  26). 

3  M.  Mulheim  am  Rhein,  see  p.  25 ;  8  M.  SchUbusch.  —  IOV2  M. 
Opladen  (Janseu;  Tillmanns).  a  town  of  4200  inhab.,  on  the  Wupper. 

From  Opladen  to  Lennkf,  IT"/*  M.,  railway  in  11/2  hr.  (fares  2  Jt  30, 
i  UT  70,  1  .^  20  pf.).  —  6  M.  Burscheid  (Post)  is  about  2  M.  from  Altenberg 
(Keller),  a  small  town  charmingly  situated  in  the  finest  part  of  the  wooded 
and  romantic  valley  of  the  Dhiin.  [To  reach  it  we  take  the  first  turn  to  the 
left  on  leaving  the  station,  cross  the  road,  pass  down  a  lane  leading  past 
the  E.  end  of  a  church  to  another  road,  follow  this  road  to  the  left  till  we 
reach  the  highroad,  follow  this  to  the  right  to  a  point  about  100yds.  beyond 
the  Engelrath  Inn,  and  then  keep  to  the  left  down  the  valley  till  the 
church  comes  into  sight.]  The  *'Abbey  Chvreh  of  Altenberg,  known  as  the 
Berffischer  Dom,  was  built  in  1255-79  for  a  Cistercian  abbey  founded  by  the 
brothers  Adolf  and  Eberhard,  Counts  of  Berg,  in  1133.  It  is  a  lai^e  cruci- 
form edifice,  resembling  Cologne  Cathedral,  without  towers,  with  a  double- 
aisled  choir,  and  a  chevet  of  pentagonal  chapels.  The  choir  and  nave  con- 
tain a  series  of  fine  stained-glass  windows  (grisaille)  of  the  ld-14th  cent. ; 
the  large  W.  window  shows  saints  under  golden  canopies  (ca.  1880-88).  In 
the  choir  are  the  tombs  of  the  Counts  of  Berg,  the  finest  being  those  of 
Gerhard  I.  (d.  1360)  and  Adolf  VI.  (d.  1348).  In  the  K.  transept  is  the 
fine  brass  of  Count  Eberhard  (d.  1466).  The  buttresses  above  the  nave- 
aisles   are  of  a   peculiar  shape  and   are   not  pierced,  thongh  serving  the 


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ELBERFELD.  7.  Route.     63 

purpose  pf  flying  buttresses.  —  To  the  W.  is  the  ^Chapel  of  St.i  Mark,  a 
gem  of  the  transition  style  (1225),  with  paintings  of  the  Itith  century.  — 
From  Altenberg  to  Bergisch-Oladbach,  see  p.  25. 

12Vs  M.  Wertneiskirchen  (Bergiseher  Hof)  is  the  junction  of  a  branch- 
line  to  Burg  {Paffrath^  in  Unterburg),  prettily  situated  in  the  valley  of 
the  Wupper  and  commanded  by  the  *Sehic*s  Burg  (adm.  20  pf. :  Schloss 
Restaurant),  long  the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Berg.  This  interesting  Duilding, 
founded  about  1140  and  enlarged  in  the  15-16th  cent.,  was  carefully  rebuilt 
on  the  old  lines  in  1889-94.  The  two-storied  'Palas'  dates  from  1220  (restored). 
The  *Bitter-Saal%  in  the  upper  story,  has  been  adorned  with  frescoes  of 
scenes  from  local  history.  The  adjoining  structure,  with  the  chapel,  was 
rebuilt  in  1892.  The  fortifications  and  towers  are  well  preserved.  The 
keep,  destroyed  about  1648,  has  been  also  rebuilt.  In  the  S.  wing  is  the  Local 
Museum^  including  portraits,  views,  antiquities,  and  sculptures.  Fine  view 
from  the  *Bitter-Saal^  and  the  K.  terrace.  From  Burg  to  the  £mp.  William 
Bridge,  see  below.  —  I71/2  M.  Zennep  (Berliner  Hof),  a  cloth-making  town  of 
9700  inhab.,  is  connected  by  branch-lines  with  Barmen,  Bemscheid,  etc. 

13  M.  Leichlingen.  —  I6I/2  M.  Ohliga,  the  junction  of  the  line 
from  Diisseldorf  to  Solingen,  Remscheld,  and  Vohwinkel. 

Solingen  (Eggert;  Deutsehes  Hatu\  V.  8.  Consul,  J.  J.  Longer )y  with 
45,000  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  most  important  seats  of  the  manufacture  of 
cutlery  in  the  world.    Solingen  blades  were  famous  in  the  middle  ages. 

Beyond  Schaberg^  the  next  station,  the  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the 
Wupper  by  the  imposing  ^Kaiser  Wilhelm  Briicke  (Emp.  William  Viaduct) ^ 
the  central  arch  of  which  is  560  ft.  in  span  and  350  ft.  above  the  river. 
Its  total  length  is  1657  ft.  The  best  view  of  it  is  obtained  from  the  path 
descending  into  the  valley  from  Schaberg  station.  Below  is  a  caf^^-restaorant, 
and  on  the  heights  of  the  opposite  bank  is  the  Schloss  Kiippelstein  Re- 
staurant. About  1 M.  downstream  is  MUngtten^  while  a  pleasant  forest-path 
ascends  to  (1  hr.)  Burg  (see  above*,  ferry  1  M.  before  reaching  Burg). 

I8V2  M.  Haan.  —  21  M.  Oruiten,  the  junction  of  the  Dussel- 
dorf-Elberfeld  line  (p.  66) ;  231/2  M.  Vohwinkel,  the  junction  of  the 
line  to  (20  M.)  Steele,  an  Impoitant  coal-railway.  Beyond  (261/2  M.) 
Sonribom  the  train  ciosses  the  Wupper,  and  calls  at  Zoologischer 
Garten  and  Steinbeck,  two  suburban  stations  of  Elberfeld. 

"iSM,  Elherfeld'Doppersberg,  the  chief  station  for  Elberfeld ; 
283/4  M.  Unter-Barmen ;  30  M.  Barmen ;  31 M.  Barmen-RitterBhausen, 

Hotels  in  Elberfeld  (restaurants  at  mo.^t).  * Wbidbnhop  (F1.  a ;  F,  4), 
with  lift,  E.  from  3,  B.  i,  D  ^  Jt;  Post,  R.  A  B.  from  2V«>  D.  incl.  wine 
3  Jf;  Mainzeb  Hof,  B.  &  B.  2V2,  D.  ^^hJf;  Kaisekhof,  B.  &  B.  from  2V4, 
D.  2  Jt;  KoBBACH;  Edropaisohbb  Hofj  Union  ^  Monopol  (PI.  c,  C,  3); 
Klkin  (PI.  b ;  F,  4),  Kirch-Str.  —  Hotels  in  Barmen.  *Vogeleb  (PI.  a-,  E,  4), 
B.  2V1-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  7-8  Ulf;  Schutzenhaos  (PI.  b;  E,  4);  Deutsches 
Haus  (PI.  d;  E,  4)^  Evakoelisobbs  Vebeinshads  (PI.  27^  ^•,^)i  near  the 
station,  B.  1-2  Jf ;  Bhbinischeb  Hof,  in  the  town. 

Bevtavrants  at  Elberfeld:  At  the  hotels;  also,  Rathtkeller ;  Willemsen, 
Konigs-Str.,  with  a  garden;  SofbrSu;  AUdeuUche  Bierhalle;  Himmelmtmn, 
Schwanen-Str.  26  (wine).  —  At  Barmen :  Theatre  Restcmrant,  next  door  to 
the  Hfitel  Vogeler;  Bheinischer  Hof;  Zur  GenUgsamkeit ;  Stadthalle;  Lu/t- 
curTuHu  (p.  64). 

Gabs.  For  1-2  pers.  50  pf.  per  drive;  »/«  !»'•  U  1  br.  IVa,  each  addit. 
Vahr.  */i  Jf;  luggage  25-60  pf.;  double  fares  at  night  and  for  first-class 
cabs.  —  Electric  Tramways^  see  Plan.  An  Elevated  Tramway  (electric)  be- 
tween Elberfeld,  Barmen,  and  (4V2  M.)  Vohwinkel. 

Oonsul  of  the  United  States,  at  Barmen,   Herr  Max  BoucTuein;  Vice 
Consul,  Herr  J.  A.  BittersJiaue. 

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64    BouU  7.  BARMEN. 

The  sister-towns  of  Elhtrftld  and  Barmtn^  together  with  the 
just-mentioned  and  other  snbnrban  villages,  now  together  form  a 
single  large  manufacturing  town,  which  fills  the  bottom  and  extends 
up  the  sides  of  the  valley,  and  is  intersected  by  the  railway,  tlie 
highroad  with  a  tramway-line,  and  the  Wupper.  They  have  risen 
to  great  importance  since  the  middle  of  last  century,  now  contain 
299,000  inhab.  (Elberfeld,  157,000;  Barmen,  142,000),  and  rank 
among  the  richest  industrial  towns  on  the  continent.  The  chief 
products  of  their  very  numerous  and  extensive  factories  are  cotton, 
calico,  silk,  ribbons,  Turkey-red  dyed  goods,  soap,  candles,  and 
chemicals.  Since  the  introduction  of  power-looms  the  value  of  the 
cotton  and  silk  manufactures  has  risen  to  upwards  of  7V2  million 
pounds  annually.  The  old  parts  of  the  towns  are  irregular  and  con- 
fined, but  the  modern  portions  contain  many  fine  private  buildings. 
Elberfeld  contains  many  benevolent  institutions,  and  is  famous  for 
its  admirable  system  of  poor-relief. 

The  finest  part  of  Elberfeld  is  the  quarter  to  the  S.W.,  round 
the  Konigs-Str.  (PI.  A-F,  3,  4),  the  Briller-Str.  (PI.  E,  3,  2),  and 
the  Sadowa-Str.  (PI.  D,  3).  The  principal  public  edifices  are  the 
new  Rathhaus^  in  the  Neumarkt  (PI.  F,  3) ;  the  Reformierte  Kirche 
(PI.  7-,  E,  3),  designed  by  Zwirner;  and  the  Landgerichts-Gebaude 
(PI.  17}  H,  4),  or  courts  of  law,  with  a  picture  of  the  Last  Judg- 
ment by  Baur  in  the  principal  hall.  The  old  Rathhaus  (PI.  18; 
F,  3,  4)  countains  the  interesting  Jlfumcipa^JIfu^ei^m.  In  the  Konigs- 
Platz  (PI.  F,  3)  is  a  War  Monument  (PI.  4)  by  Albermann.  In  the 
Brausenwerther-Platz,  the  Neumarkt,  and  the  Sohlossbleiche  are 
statues  of  Emp.  William  /.  (PI.  3;  F,  4),  Emp.  Frederick  (PI.  2, 
F  3;  both  by  Eberlein),  and  Bismarck  (PI.  1,  F  4;  by  Brunow). 

The  Eardt  (PI.  of  Barmen,  A,  B,  3,  4) ,  to  the  E.,  where  there  are  a 
monument  to  St.  Saitbertus  and  another  war-monnment ,  commands  a 
pleasinp:  view.  A  finer  view  is  obtained  from  the  KdniffsTidhe  on  the  Eiet- 
herg^  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town  (restaurant  and  view-lower ;  PI.  B,  C,  6). 
On  the  slope  of  the  Eiesberg  lies  the  Zoological  Garden  (PL  A,  4,  5; 
railway* station,  see  p-  63).  —  To  the  W.  are  the  promenades  of  the  Kaiser- 
hdhe  on  the  NUtzenbtrg  (PI.  C,  D,  3 ;  restaurant),  with  the  reservoir  of  the 
town  water-works. 

In  Barmen  the  chief  buildings  are  the  Protestant  Church  (Pi.  16; 
0,  4),  designed  by  Hfibsch;  the  Misaionshaus  (PI.  0,  3),  containing 
an  interesting  collection  of  curiosities  from  foreign  countries  (adm. 
50  pf.);  and  the  Ruhmeshalle  (PL  25 ;  F,  4),  or  Hall  of  Fame,  which 
contains  statues  of  Emp.  William  I.,  Emp.  Frederick,  and  Emp. 
William  II.,  as  well  as  various  collections.  In  front  of  the  old  Rath- 
haus is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Bismarck,  The  Civic  Museum  (PI.  19 ; 
E  ,4)  contains  a  collection  of  natural  history. 

On  the  S.  side  are  the  new  Town  Hall  (Pi.  E,  5),  the  War  Afon- 
ument  (PI.  4),  and  a  bronze  Statue  ofE,  Rittershaus,  the  poet  (d.  1897), 
surrounded  by  pleasant  grounds.  Farther  to  the  S.  is  the  Barmer 
Wald,  with  the  Tblle  Thurm  (PI.  D,  6),  a  belvedere  (electric  tram- 
way in  1/4  hr.,  25  pf.J.  Adjacent  is  the  Luftcurhaus^  a  health-resort 


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SIEGBURG.  8.  RouU,    65 

(pens,  with  room  A^/^r^  JK).  We  may  return  to  the  E.  through  the 
%hiidY  Murmelhack-Thal  (1  hr.),  orproeeed  to  the  W.,  orer  the  KaUer 
Friedrich  Hohe  (PL  A,  6)  to  (1  hr.)  Elberfeld. 

Fkom  Elbbbtbld  to  D688Bldo]if,  17  M.,  in  1  hr.  Stations :  Vokwinkelf 
QrutUm  (p.  63),  Haan^  Hochdahl^  Erkrath^  Gerresheimy  JHlsseldor/  (p.  20). 

Branch-lines  also  run  from  Blberfeld  and  Barmen  to  Cronenberff^  Ront- 
6oTfy  Lennep  (p.  63) ,  Remscheidy  and  many  other  manufacturing  places  of 
more  or  less  importance. 

The  line  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Wnpper.  It  then 
crosses  the  Wnpper,  qnits  the  Dnehy  of  Berg,  and  enters  the  County 
of  Mark.  The  river  anciently  formed  the  boundary  between  the 
Franks  and  Saxons,  and  now  separates  the  Rhineland  from  West- 
phalia. —  34  M.  Sohwelm  (Prin%vonPreu88en),  a  town  with  16,890 
inhabitants.  Farther  on,  the  train  passes  the /9eAtrf2mer  Bruimen,  a 
chalybeate  spring,  and  through  several  cuttings.  —  37  M.  Milspt. 
Pleasing  view  up  the  valley  of  the  Ennepe^  whioh  the  train  crosses 
by  embankments  and  a  viaduct,  100  ft.  high.  —  38^2  ^-  Gevela- 
berg,  a  town  consisting  of  a  long  row  of  detached  houses.  The  stream 
turns  the  machinery  of  numerous  small  iron-works,  where  scythes, 
sickles,  and  shovels  are  manufactured.  At  (41 Y2  M.)  Haspt  are 
extensive  puddling-works  and  rolling-miUs. 

431/2  M*  Hayen  (H6tel  LunenBcUoiB^  at  the  station;  Eomer; 
Glitzy^  a  manufacturing  town  with  50,6()0  inhab.,  is  the  junction 
for  Bochum,  Dortmund,  Oassel,  and  Siegen ;  see  Baedeker's  Northern 
Oermany, 

8.  From  Cologne  to  Frankfort  ▼!&  Giessen. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  5i. 

143  M.  Bailwat  from  Cologne  to  Oieaen.  iOS^/j  M.,  in  4-5  hrs.  (fares 
13  ur  40,  10  ur  lO,  6  ur  to  pf.);  from  Oiessen  to  Fremk/ort,  89 Vs  M.,  in 
1 1/4-3  hrs.  (fares  4  UT  40,  3  Jf  30,  2  UT  20  pf . ;  express,  5  UT,  3  UT  60  pf.). 

The  train  starts  at  Cologne  j  passes  through  Deut*  (p.  55) 
without  stopping,  and  traverses  a  flat  country  at  some  distance  from 
the  Rhine.  2  M.  Kalk  (20,500  inhab.),  a  thriving  industrial  suburb 
of  Gologne  and  Deutz,  is  the  junction  for  Deutz  (slow  trains  only, 
in  8  min.).  7  M.  Urbach,  To  the  E.  of  (8V2  M.)  Wahn  is  the 
Wahner  Heide,  with  an  artillery-range.  Beyond  (13  M.)  Troisdorf, 
where  the  Right-Rhenish  line  diverges  (p.  81),  the  line  crosses  the 
Agger,  on  the  bank  of  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  Friedrich-  WiUulms- 
Hutte^  a  large  iron-foundry. 

15^2  ^*  Siegburg  {Felder,  opposite  the  station ;  Siem^  f ^l^)?  ^^ 
industrial  town  with  14,200  inhab.,  lies  pleasantly  on  the  slope  of 
a  hill  at  the  confluence  of  the  Agger  and  the  8Ug.  Above  it,  on  the 
MichaeUberg,  rise  the  buildings  of  an  old  Benedictine  Abbey, 
founded  by  Abp.  Anno  in  1066  and  now  a  reformatory.  Of  the 
abbey-church  the  crypt  alone  remains.  The  Parish  Church,  dating 
from  ih«  second  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  contains  seven  richly  adorned 
reUqnaries  of  the  12-15th  cent.,  including  that  of  St.  Anno  fd.  1 075), 

Babdbkers  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  5iOOgle 


66    RouU  8.  DILLENBURG.  From  Cologne 

ArcliMsliop  of  Cologne,  the  stem  guardian  of  Emp.  Henry  IV.  — 
Branch-Une  to  C24V2  M.)  Dieringhauaen  and  (66  M.)  Hagen  (p.  651. 

Beyond  Siegbnrg  (view  of  tlie  Seveu  Mountains  to  the  right), 
the  train  crosses  the  Sieg^  and  ascends  the  Talley  of  the  river,  over 
38  hridges  and  through  13  tunnels,  to  Betzdorf  and  Siegen.  •—  20  M. 
J5r<!nne/'(WaIter8cheid)  is  the  junction  of  the  Broelthal  Railway  from 
Beuel  (p.  90)  to  Waldbroel  and  to  Buchholz.  The  castle  of  Allner, 
adjoining  the  wood  to  the  left,  stands  at  the  confluence  of  the  Broel 
and  the  Sieg.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  are  the  monastery  of  Bodingen, 
surrounded  by  vineyards,  and  the  chateau  of  AttenbacK 

22^2  ^*  Blankenberg  (Honrath ,  with  a  terrace  commanding  a 
beautiful  view),  formerly  an  important  fortified  town,  with  a  con- 
spicuous ruined  castle,  is  a  popular  summer-resort.  Tunnel. 

Beyond  (27i/2  M.)  Eitorf  (iVins  Carl,  fair)  a  retrospect  is  obtained 
of  the  monastery  of  Merten  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  The  wooded 
hills  enclosing  the  valley  now  increase  in  height.  Two  tunnels 
are  passed  through.  Near  Windeek,  with  the  castle  of  that  name  on 
the  hill  to  the  left,  the  railway  and  highroad  pass  through  a  deep 
cutting.  —  31  M.  Herchen  (Glasmacher).  —  36i/2  M.  Schladem 
(Klever,  B.  &  B.  2yiJf;  diligence  twice  dally  to  Waldbrdl).  A  new 
channel  has  here  been  constructed  for  the  Sieg,  while  the  old  one 
has  been  left  dry  for  a  distance  of  2  M.  —  Tunnel. 

41 M.  Au,  the  junction  for  Limburg  (p.  219);  441/2  M.  Wistm, 
junction  for  Morsbach.  A  little  farther  on,  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  Sieg,  rises  the  old  chateau  of  Schonstein,  the  property  of 
Prince  Hatzfeld.  —  47  M.  Niederhovels.  —  52  M.  Setidorf  (Breiden- 
backer  Ho  f;  Oabreeht)  is  the  junction  for  8iegen  and  Hagen  (see  p.  65, 
and  Baedekers  Northern  Oermany), 

The  line  to  Giessen  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Heller  to  (57  M.) 
Herdorfy  (59  M.)  NeurUcirchen,  and  (63  M.)  Burbaeh,  crosses  the 
watershed  between  the  Heller  and  the  Dill  near  Wurgersdorf,  and 
threads  its  way  through  the  Hiekengrund,  6972  ^*  Nieder-Dresaeln^ 
dorf;  74  M.  Haiger,   The  line  next  enters  the  DillthaL 

77  M.  Dillenburg(765ft.;  Hinch;  Schwan;  Curhaus,  R.l'^-^ 
D.  13/4,  pens.  4^/2  -  ^A  •i^jj  *  picturesque  town  of  4500  inhab.,  with 
iron  mines,  a  mining  school,  and  a  statue  of  Bismarck  (1898).  The 
WilhelmS'2hurmj  130  ft.  high,  was  erected  in  1872-75  on  the  site  of 
the  ruined  castle  of  Dillenbuig,  in  which  William  of  Orange,  the 
liberator  of  the  Netherlands,  was  bom  in  1533  (adm.30pf.).  Ad- 
jacent is  the  WilhelmS'Linde ,  a  lime-tree  under  which  William 
received  the  Netherlandish  ambassadors  in  1 568. 

A  Branch  Bailwat  ascends  the  DietzMlw-Thdl  to  (lOM.)  Btra$»-Eh«rshcKh, 
whence  the  Wilhelms-Warte  ua  the  Btumiberg  cVs  ^O  m^y  be  visited. 

81 V2  M.  Herbom  (670  ft.;  Ritter),  an  industrial  place  with 
3500  inhab.,  on  the  Dill.  The  old  castle  is  now  a  seminary.  Branch- 
line  to  Hartenrod  and  Nieder-  WeUgem, — 86  M.  Sinn,  On  a  hill  to 
the  right  is  the  ruin  of  Oreifenstein.    Beyond  (891/2  M.)  Ekrings^ 

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to  Frankfort.  NAUHEIM.  8.  RouU,    67 

hauaen  the  line  enters  the  yalley  of  the  Lahny  and  unites  with  the 
NassoYian  Railway  (from  Lahnstein  to  Wetzlar;  K  27 J. 

9572  M.  Wetilar,  see  p.  220.  —  The  line  now  ascends  the 
smiling  yalley  of  the  Lahn.  Beyond  (100  M.)  Dutenhofen  the  ruins 
of  Qleiherg  and  Vetzberg  are  seen  on  the  left. 

103^2  M.  QienwR  (*OT088herzog  von  Hessen^  *Kuhne,  Victoria, 
Schui%,  near  the  station;  Eirihom;  Bappe;  Prins  Cwl;  Rail, 
Restaurant),  situated  on  the  Lahn,  is  mainly  of  modem  origin,  and 
contains  26,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  uniyerslty,  founded 
in  1607,  which  is  attended  by  about  760  students.  f 

IO8V2  M.  Langgons.  About  3  M.  to  the  left  of  (144  M.)  Butz- 
bach  rise  the  eonsiderable  ruins  of  the  castle  of  MUnzenberg,  de- 
stroyed in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  higher  (154  ft.)  of  its  two 
towers  commands  an  extensive  view. 

120  M.  Kaulieim.  —  Hotels.  *KAi8SBHOF,B.from4,B.li/2,D.3V«ur; 
*Bsi8TOL{  *Ai}ou8TA  VioTORiA,  B.  2V«-6>  B.  1,  pens.  S-iiJf\  Or.  HdvEL 
Imt&biaJs,  pens,  frum  7Va  Jf^  *Pa]ik  Hotel;  Gdbsaal,  pena.  6V2-15  Ji; 
BsLLBTUs;  HdTBL  Dx  l'Ecrope,  pena.  8-14  UI(;  HQt,  do  Kobo,  pens. 
9-10  Jft  H6t.  db  Londbes,  pens,  from  7  Jf;  Bbichshof,  pens.  5-9  Jf.  — 
PsMsioNs :  Splendid  (6-V2  Jf) ,  Langadorf,  Victoria,  etc.  —  It  is  advisable 
not  to  arrive  late  in  the  evening,  as  the  hotels  are  often  fall  during 
the  season. 

Bestaurantfl.    At  the  hotels;  OambriMu;  Burk;  Oermania. 

Visitors*  Tax  for  a  stay  of  more  than  6  davs,  1  pers.  12  Jt,  2  pers. 
18  Jf,  each  additional  member  of  a  family  3  Jf. 

Gabs.  Per  drive,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  60  pf.,  34  pers.  80  pf.;  two-horse 
80  pf.  or  1  Jf.    Per  hour:  2  UT  60,  8  UT  40,  5  Jf  40  pf.,  or  6  Jf, 

Nauhdm  {AI60  ft,) ,  a  small  town  of  4700  inhab.,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  N.E.  slope  of  the  Taunus  Mts.  (p.  240),  with  regular 
streets,  shady  avenues,  and  pleasure-grounds,  is  a  favourite  water- 
ing-place, visited  by  22,000  guests  annually.  The  warm  saline 
springs,  which  are  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  gas, 
have  been  known  for  centuries,  but  did  not  begin  to  attract  visitors 
until  about  1840.  They  are  particularly  efficacious  against  heart- 
disease  and  rheumatism.  Extensive  evaporating-houses  and  salt- 
pans. The  waters  of  the  Friedriek-WilheLmS'Sprudel  r95**  Fahr.), 
the  Orosse  8prudel(^0^),  and  the  Kleirhc  Sprudel  (M^)  are  used 
for  the  baths,  which  are  admirably  fitted  up.  The  Curbrunnen, 
CarlsquelU  (somewhat  resembling  the  Rakoczy  of  Kissingen),  and 
LudwigsquclU  (alkaline)  are  drinking-springs.  Adjoining  the 
TrihkhalU,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  are  several  greenhouses.  At 
the  foot  of  the  Johanniaberg,  about  1/2  M.  from  the  station,  is  the 
handsome  Curhaus,  with  elegant  rooms  and  a  fine  terrace  over- 
looking the  extensive  grounds. 

The  train  skirts  the  Gradirhauser(*evaporating-hou8e8'),  crosses 
a  lofty  viaduct,  and  reaches  — 

122  M.  Friedberg  {H6tcl  Trapp;  Restaurant  Felserikeller,  with 
view),  with  6900  inhab.,  once  a  free  imperial  town.  The  Pro- 
testant Licbfrauen-Kirche  is  an  interesting  Gothic  structure,  built 

5»     ^ 


68    Route  9.         SCHWARZ-RHEINDORF. 

in  1290-1350,  with  towers  dating  from  the  15th  centary.  See 
Baedeker's  Northern  Oermarvy, 

125  M.  Buchenbrucken;  127  M.  Nieder-WolUtadt.  To  the  right 
rise  the  Tannus  Mts.  130  M.  Gross^Karben ;  132  M.  DorUlweil; 
134^2  M.  Vilbel,  near  which  the  iV{<2<2a  is  crossed;  137 M,Bonames, 
station  forHombnrg  (p.  241);  141 M.  Boekeriheim,  with  a  handsome 
church,  large  barracks,  and  an  ancient  watch-tower. 

143  M.  Frankfort,  see  p.  221. 

^y^/       9.  71^6  It^^K^n?  ^rnm  Cnlnpne  to  Coblenz. 

Stkamboat  (60  M.)  in  7-8  hrs.  (down  41^-6  hra.) ;  fares  4  JT  70,  3  JT  80  pf. 
Piers  at  Marienborg,  Wesseling,  Bonn,  Godesb  rg,  Konigswinter,  Bolsnd£- 
eck,  Remagen,  Lins,  Andemach,  and  li^euwied^  Small  Boat  Station*  at  Ober- 
cassel,  Unkel,  Nieder-Breisig,  Brohl,  etc.  —  Cabs,  etc.,  at  Cologne,  see 
p.  28.  —  Railway  (57  M.),  see  R.  10. 

In  the  following  routes  r.  and  {.  indicate  the  position  of  towns,  and 
other  objects,  with  regard  to  the  traveller  ascending  the  river.  The  Left 
Rhenish  and  Right  Rhenish  railways,  however,  are  named  after  the  left 
(W.)  and  right  (B.)  banks  respectively  with  regard  to  the  traveller  de- 
scending the  river. 

Soon  after  the  steamer  has  quitted  the  majestio  city  of  Cologne, 
with  its  cathedral,  numerous  towers,  and  lofty  bridge,  the  ch&teau 
oiBensberg  (p.  26),  on  an  eminence  9  M.  to  the  N.E.,  comes  in 
sight.  To  the  right  is  Mwimburg-Bayenihal  (pier;  H6tel-Re8taurant 
Marienburg,  -with  extensiye  grounds),  a  residential  suburb  of  Co- 
logne (p.  28).  Several  small -boat  stations  now  follow:  ].  Porz^ 
r.  8w1h;  r.  Weeseling^  with  a  pier,  the  station  for  Briihl  (p.  80);  1. 
UkUdorf;  r.  Widdig;.\,  Mondorf,  The  express  steamers  pass  all 
these  without  stopping.  Opposite  the  island  of  Graujtenwerth^  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Sfeg ,  on  the  left,  lies  Qrau^Rheindorf,  On  the 
hillside ,  farther  inland ,  rises  the  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey  of 
Siegburg  (p.  65). 

On  the  left  we  soon  perceive  the  church  of  Behwan-Bheindorf, 
a  curious  structure,  consisting  of  two  stories,  consecrated  in  1151 
by  Archbishop  Arnold  of  Wied,  who  is  buried  here  (d.  1156).  It  is 
about  IV2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Beitel  (p.  90). 

The  church  was  erected  in  the  form  of  a  Oreek  cross,  with  a  dome 
over  the  crossing  and  a  semicircular  E.  apse,  but  a  long  nave  was  very 
soon  added  on  the  W.  Beneath  the  dome  is  an  octagonal  aperture  between 
the  stories,  10  ft.  in  diameter,  so  that  the  inmates  of  a  nunnery,  with  Which 
*he  church  was  in  immediate  connection,  could  in  the  upper  story  hear 
the  service  without  being  visible  to  the  congregation  in  Uie  lower  story. 
Interesting  mural  paintings  of  the  12th  cent,  were  discovered  in  the  lower 
church  during  a  restoration  (comp.  p.  xxix).  The  exterior  is  also  worthy 
of  inspection,  especially  the  remarkably  elegant  miniature  gallery  which 
runs  round  the  upper  part  of  the  church  on  the  £.  side.  Among  other 
peculiarities,  it  shows  traces  of  Lombard  influence.  It  has  been  frequently 
imitated  in  Rhenish  churches.    The  church  is  being  restored. 

To  the  right  we  next  observe  the  Jemitenhof,  and  then  the 
Wiehelshof  (p.  85).  Before  calling  at  Bonn,  the  steamboat  passes 
under  the  handsome  new  Rhine  bridge. , 

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MEHLEM.  9.  Route.    69 

I.  Bonny  see  p.  84.  The  lofty  tower  of  the  Miinster,  the  hand- 
some residences  on  the  Rhine  above  the  town,  the  long  buildings  of 
the  University  peeping  from  among  the  trees,  and  the  grounds  of 
the  *Alte  Zoll*  give  the  town  a  very  attractive  appearance  when 
viewed  firom  the  steamboat. 

After  Bonn  is  quitted  we  enter  the  most  picturesque  and  famous 
portion  of  the  river.  Ramersdorf,  to  the  left,  with  woods  in  the 
background,  was  formerly  a  lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  the  chapel 
of  which  was  removed  to  the  cemetery  at  Bonn  (p.  90). 

1.  Ohercassel,  and  railway-ferry  to  Bonn,  see  p.  81. 

r.  PUttendorf  fSchaumburger  Hof,  R.  2-3,  D.  21/2  UT;  JSf^e. 
Mundorf,  R.  &  B.  2-3,  D.  2-2V2,  pens.  4V2-5V2  uTj,  1  M.  to  the 
N.B.  of  Godeabayg, ^ 

1.  Niedet^DoUendoffy  see  p.  81. 

r.  GNKlesberg,  ^j^  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  on  a  hill  above  which 
rises  the  massive  tower  of  the  ruined  castle  of  Oodesberg  (p.  80). 

r.  Biingsdorf  (*Rhein  Hdtel^  Pension  Fritz  Dreeaen^  with  garden, 
R.3-10,  B.  1,  D.2Va-3,  pens.  6-16  u8f;  Qodesherger  Hof ,  R.2V2- 
31/21  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  5V2-7V2  ^^  ^ery  fair). 

1.  Kdnigswinter  (160  ft. ;  p.  91),  above  which  rises  the  ^Dtachen- 
feUy  with  its  ruin  (908  ft.  above  the  Rhine)  and  the  ch&teau  of 
Drachenburg  (p.  93).  Ascent  of  the  Drachenfels,  and  excursion  into 
the  Seven  Mountains,  see  pp.  92  et  seq. 

r.  Mehlem  (Park  Hotel,  between  the  rail.  stat.  and  the  ferry, 
R.  2-3V2»  B.  3/4,  D.  3,  pens,  from  6  u8f ;  Hotel  Drachenfels,  R.  iV2-2, 
B.  3/4,  pens,  from  41/2  ^;  ^»'^  FrUde,  R.  &  B.  2V2-3,  pens,  from 
4^2  •^i  on  the  Rhine),  with  a  modern  Romanesque  church  and 
numerous  villas ,  is  the  Lefc-Rhenish  railway-station  (p.  79)  for 
K5nigswinter,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  ferry  (5  pf.)-  The 
station  and  ferry  are  about  ^4  M*  apart. 

To  the  left  lies  Rhdndorf(^.  82),  and  farther  back,  at  first  con- 
cealed by  the  islands  (see  below),  are  Rommersdorf  and  the  scattered 
village  of  HonnefCp-  82),  above  which  is  the  large  sanatorium  of 
Hohen-Honnefi^,  82). 

The  steamer  next  passes  the  islands  of  (r.)  Coayai^werth  and 
(l.)  Qraftnwtrth  (garden-restaurant;  10  minutes  from  the  railway 
station  of  Honnef ;  ferry  5  pf.;.  On  the  former,  peeping  from  the 
midst  of  trees,  stands  an  extensive  nunnery  of  very  ancient  origin, 
mentioned  in  a  document  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  suppressed  in  1802. 
The  present  buildings,  which  contain  a  girls'  school,  were  erected 
at  the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  and  a  new  wing  was  added  in  1869. 

r.  Bolandseck.  —  Hotels.  Bolandseck,  on  the  Rhine,  with  gardeu, 
B.  2-4,  B.  i,  D.  3,  pens.  5-7  M;  *Bellkvub,  near  the  pier  and  the  rail, 
station,  B.  S'/i-S,  B.  1,  D.  8,  pens.  B-9  M;  Dbckbb,  B.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V2, 
pens.  6-7  Jl;  Viotoua,  B.  2-3»/t,  B.  »/4,  D.  8,  pens.  5-7  Jt^  very  fair;  Kolner 
HoF  B.  2-3,  P..  1,  D.  21/2-4,  pens.  4V2-7  M,  on  the  Bhino,  with  garden.  — 
Railway  Restaurant^  with  fixed  charges ;  magnificent '  '-View  froui  the  terrace ; 
concert  ou  8uu.,  30  pf.  (^  } 

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70     BouU  9.  ROLANDSEOK.  From  Coloyrie 

Boat  to  Nonnenwerth  and  back  IVs  Jf\  Rhoifidorf  2,  there  and  back 
A  Jt  \  Konigswinter  2Va  &  6V«  Jf-    Ferry  to  Honnef  5  pf. 

Rolandaeck  (rail,  stat.,  see  p.  79),  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
first  considerable  heights  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  frequented  spots  on  the  river,  and  is  surrounded 
with  numerous  villas,  chiefly  belonging  to  wealthy  merchants  from 
the  Lower  Rhine,  and  extending  along  the  wooded  slopes  at  the  back 
of  the  village.  Leaving  the  station  by  the  public  grounds,  we  follow 
the  road  along  the  river  as  far  as  the  H6tel  Roland  and  then  as- 
cend the  narrow  path,  leaving  the  hotel  to  the  left,  cross  the  rail- 
way, and,  passing  a  shell- grotto  ('Rolandsbom')  and  following 
the  shadeless  bridle-path  past  a  pavilion  on  the  hill,  arrive  in 
15-20  min.  at  the  Rolandsbogen,  or  "IBoland  Arch  (500  ft.  above 
the  sea;  rfmts.),  the  last  relic  of  the  (Jaatle  of  koiandseck,  perched 
on  a  basaltic  rock,  344  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  The  *View  hence,  which 
is  best  by  evening-light,  is  less  extensive  than  that  from  the 
Drachenfels,  but  more  picturesque,  as  it  embraces  the  Seven  Mts. 

The  castle  ia  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  knight  Roland,  the  paladin 
of  Charlemagne,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Boncesvalles.  The  earliest  histori- 
cal mention  of  it  is  in  a  document  of  1040  or  1045,  where  it  is  called 
Rulcheseek;  the  convent  on  the  island  was  named  Ruleheswerth.  In  1120 
Archbishop  Frederick  partly  restored  the  ruin  for  the  purpose  of  defend- 
ing  his  dominions  against  Henry  IV.  The  fortress  stood  till  the  close  of 
the  16th  cent.,  when  it  fell  entirely  to  decay.  The  romantic  legend  con- 
nected with  the  castle  and  convent  may  be  thus  briefly  told:  — 

The  brave  knight  Roland,  scouring  the  Rhine  in  search  of  adventure, 
found  himself  the  guest  of  Count  Heribert,  lord  of  the  Seven  Mountains, 
at  his  castle  of  Prachenburg.  According  to  custom  the  daughter  of  the 
host,  the  peerless  Hildegunde,  welcomed  him  with  the  offering  of  bread., 
wine,  and  fish.  ■  Her  beauty  riveted  the  gaze  of  the  young  knight,  and 
Hildegunde  and  Roland  were  soon  affianced  lovers.  But  their  happiness 
was  brief:  Roland  was  summoned  by  Charlemagne  to  the  crusade.  Time 
sped  on.,  and  anxiously  did  Hildegunde  await  his  return.  But  sad  rumours 
came.  The  brave  Roland  was  said  to  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of  the  In- 
fidels, and  the  inconsolable  Hildegunde  took  rettige  in  the  ^Kloster**  in  the 
adjacent  island  of  Konnenwerth.  The  rumours,  however,  of  the  death  of 
her  betrothed  were  unfounded.  Although  desperately  wounded,  he  recov- 
ered, and  hastened  to  the  halls  of  Drachenburg  to  claim  his  bride  ^  but 
instead  of  being  welcomed  back  by  her  fondly-remembered  smile,  he  found 
that  she  was  for  ever  lost  to  him.  In  despair  he  built  the  castle,  of  which 
one  crumbling  arch  alone  remains,  and  there  lived  in  solitude,  catching 
an  occasional  glimpse  of  a  fair  form  passing  to  and  fro  to  her  devotions 
in  the  little  chapel  of  the  Kloster.  At  len^h  he  missed  her,  and  soon 
the  tolling  of  the  bell  and  a  mournful  procession  conveyed  to  him  the 
heart-rending  intelligence  that  his  beloved  Hildegunde  was  no  more.  From 
that  moment  Roland  never  spoke  again;  for  a  short  time  he  dragged  on 
his  wretched  existence,  but  his  heart  was  broken,  and  one  morning  he  was 
found  rigid  and  lifeless,  his  glassy  eye  still  turned  towards  the  convent 
chapel. 

The  modern  Tower  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  1/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the 
ruin,  affords  a  wider  prospect  (on  Sun.  the  custodian  is  generally  at 
the  tower  J  25-50  pf.).  —  About  5  min.  farther  on,  on  the  summit 
of  the  Roderberg^  is  the  Re$taurant  Alter  Vulcan^  affording  a  fine 
view  of  the  Seven  Mts.  The  Roderberg  is  an  extinct  volcano,  the 
margin  of  which  may  still  be  descried.    In  the  hollow,  to  the  W.  of 


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to  CoUcwk.  RKMAGEN.  9.  RouU,    71 

the  lestaurant,  lies  the  BrucMo/"  (hence  to  the  Mehlem  railway- 
station,  p.  79,  40  mln.). 

r.  Ohtr\DinUr  (Bhein -  Hdtel ;  Post;  lioosen).  The  retrospect 
hence  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Rhine.  Rolandseck,  and  the  Drachen- 
fels  with  its  castle,  the  cliffs  of  the  Wolkenhurg,  and  the  whole  of 
the  peaks  of  the  Seven  Mts.,  upwards  of  thirty  in  number,  form  a 
picture  of  incomparable  beauty,  while  the  lovely  island  of  Nonnen- 
werth  and  the  grand  river  itself  constitute  the  foreground.  On  the 
right  bank  is  the  flattened  summit  of  the  Lowenburg,  with  its  ruin. 
The  isolated  cone  to  the  extreme  right  is  the  Hemmerich. 

1.  Bheinbreitbach  (^Clouih^  with  garden;  Bheinbreithaehtr  Hof 
pens.  3^2-4  Ufif),  a  favourite  summer-resort,  lies  at  the  entrance  to 
a  wide  valley,  which  extends  from  the  Rhine  to  the  Seven  Mountains 
(comp.  pp.  82,  83).  Fine  view  from  the  (•/4  M.)  Heilig,  a  hill  sur- 
mounted with  a  cross.  The  ancient  copper  and  lead  mines  on  the 
Vimeberg  are  no  longer  worked.  A  cable  line,  nearly  4  M.  in  length, 
connects  the  basalt  quarries  on  the  Asberg  with  the  Rhine. 

1.  Unkel  (*8ehul%,  R.  2-2 V2,  B.  1,  D.  from  1 1/2,  pens.  31/2-6  u8f, 
good  wine,  with  garden  and  view-terrace)  is  a  prosperous  village,  a 
favourite  resort  in  summer  and  autumn  (rail,  stat.,  see  p.  83).  On 
the  hill  is  a  pavilion,  affording  a  beautiful  view. 

Between  Unkel  and  Remagen  the  Rhine  describes  a  wide  curve. 
Of  the  numerous  country-houses  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  river, 
the  most  conspicuous  is  the  ch&teau  of  MatienfeU^  1/2  M.  below  the 
ApoUinaris-Kirche . 

r.  Bemagen.  —  Hotel*.  ^Hotkl  FChbtsnberq,  on  the  Rhine,  with 
gardens,  first-class,  closed  in  winter,  B.  2Vs-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  3Vt,  pens.  8-12  Jl. 
~  RHEiM-HdTKL,  on  the  Rhine,  next  door  to  the  Fiirstenberg  Hotel,  R. 
2-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/9,  pens.  5-8  M;  Ankkb,  also  on  the  Rhine,  R.  <fe  B.  2V<. 
pens.  5  M  s  H0SK8BN,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  B.  &  B.  2Vs-8,  D.  from 
iVs,  pens.  5-6  M^  well  spoken  of;  Hof  von  Holland,  also  in  the  principal 
street,  B.  2-2V2>  B.  »/4,  D.  from  iVa,  pens.  4Vt  jH;  Dbdtschkb  Kaiser, 
R.  d^  B.  2V4-3  UVf  Westfalischbb  Hof,  at -the  railway-station.  —  Hotel 
ViCTORiABERG  (R.  &  B.  2-4.  pent.  4-5Vs  UO  ^n^  HdTBL  Apollinabisbbbo 
(R.  &  B.  2-2V4,  pens.  4  U>),  hoth  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  well  spoken 
of.  —  HdxEL  Waldbubg,  on  the  Victoria-Berg  (see  p.  72),  R.  &  B.  2-2V«, 
pens.  4Va  Jl. 

Carriages.  To  the  ApollinaHs-Kirche^  one-horse  1  UV  25,  two-horse 
i  Ur  50pf. ;  to  Rolandseck  4  or  6  UT,  there  and  back  1  M  or  \0  M  50  pf.;  tr 
Altenahr  10  UV  or  13  UV  50  pf..  there  and  back  12  or  16  Jf\  Laacher  See 
and  back  14  UV  50  pf.  or  18  J(,  vi&  Andernach  18  or  22  Jf. 

Remagen  (rail,  stat.,  p.  79),  a  small  town  with  3500  inhab., 
situated  13  M.  above  Bonn  and  24  M.  below  Goblenz,  is  an  ex- 
cellent starting-point  for  excursions.  It  is  mentioned  as  Rigomagus 
in  the  Peutinger  map  of  Roman  roads  (p.  xxiv).  Remagen  was  a 
place  of  some  importance  in  the  middle  ages,  but  declined  after  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  It  once  belonged,  like  Sinzig,  to  the  duchy  of 
JMich ;  in  1 624  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Pfalz-Neuburg. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  is  the  Roman_^atbolicJChurch, 
with  a  Romanesque  nave  and  a  Gothic  choir,  consecrated  in  1246. 


72    Route  9.  REMAGEN.  From  Cologne 

In  the  interior  are  a  handsome  Gothic  tabernacle  and  seyeral  sculp- 
tures of  the  15th  century.  The  Romanesque  Portal  adjoining  the 
Roman  Catholic  parsonage,  adorned  with  grotesque  sculptures  of  the 
i2th  cent.,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  Whether  it  originally  belonged 
to  a  palace  or  a  church  is  unknown.  — At  the  upper  end  of  the  town 
is  a  new  Protestant  Churehj  in  the  Gothic  style.  —  The  head-office 
of  the  Aj^gUinarit  Company  LimiUd  (p.  98)  is  situated  on  the  bank 
of  the  Rhine. 

A  road  to  the  right  near  the  Protestant  church  crosses  the  rail- 
way and  the  highroad  and  ascends  through  a  hollow  bordered  by 
shady  footpaths  to  the  (20  min.)  top  of  the  Victoria-Berg,  with 
pleasant  promenades,  benches,  and  several  points  of  view  (Hdtela 
Restaurants  Waldbwrg,  Eremitage,  Hofreiden^  AhrplcUte),  command- 
ing a  charming  and  varied  prospect,  best  by  evening-light.  In  the 
foreground  is  the  Apollinaris-Kirche,  by  which  we  may  return  to 
the  tovm. 

Immediately  below  Remagen  a  road,  diverging  to  the  left  from 
the  highroad,  ascends  the  steep  day-slate  hill  to  the  elegant  Gothic 
four-towered  *4S5SH^SS^'*=^^i^^»  erected  in  1839  by  Zwimer,  the 
late  eminent  architect  of  Cologne  Cathedral  (p.  34),  at  the  expense 
of  Count  Fiirstenberg-Stammheim  (d.  1859).  This  little  church 
occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  and  much-frequented  pilgrimage- 
shrine.  In  1164  Frederick  Barbarossa  is  said  to  have  presented 
the  head  of  the  highly-revered  St.  ApoUinaris,  Bishop  of  Ravenna, 
to  Archbishop  Reinald  von  Dassel  of  Cologne,  who  was  in  the  act 
of  conveying  it  to  Cologne ,  together  with  the  relics  of  the  Magi 
(p.  37),  when  by  some  miraculous  agency  the  vessel  stopped  in  the 
middle  of  the  river  here,  and  refused  to  proceed  until  the  head  of 
the  holy  man  had  been  safely  deposited  in  a  chapel  on  the  Apolli- 
narisberg. 

The  church  is  open  daily  from  7  a.ni.  to  8  p.m.,  on  Sun.  and  holidays 
after  10  a.m.  (admission,  30  pf.).  The  interior  was  adorned  in  1843-61  by 
the  DUsseldorf  artiste  £rtut  Deger  (d.  1886),  Karl  MUiler  (d.  1896),  Andreas 
MUUer  (d.  1890),  and  Fr.  Utenbach  (d.T879)  with  ten  large  *Frescoes  of 
scenes  from  the  lives  of  the  Saviour,  the  Virgin,  and  St.  ApoUinaris 
(transept).  —  The  Gbtpt  contains  the  holy  head,  in  a  sarcophagus  of  the 
14th  cent.  ^  the  recumbent  figure  of  the  saint  is  modem.  In  the  adjoining 
chapel  is  a  painted  crucifix  carved  in  the  16th  cent,  (expression  of  face 
differs  with  the  position  of  the  spectator). 

Above  the  church  is  a  ^tue  ofSt.  FranciSy  erected  by  the  Fran- 
ciscans residing  near  the  church  fwide  viewJT—  Just  before  turning 
to  the  right  to  reach  the  church  we  pass  a  finger-post  indicating  the 
way  to  the  top  of  the  Victoria-Berg  (see  above ;  after  5  min.  ascend 
to  the  right),  which  is  reached  hence  in  20-25  minutes.  [From  the 
Victoria-Berg  we  may  go  on  by  the  Landskron  (p.  97)  to  Neuenahr 
(p.  98),  a  walk  of  21/2  hrs.] 

Railway  from  Remagen  to  AdenaUj  see  p.  97. 

Opposite  Remagen,  near  Erpel  frail,  stat. ;  Weinberg,  with  ve- 
randa, R.  &  B.  2,  D.  11/4-1 V2  •^i,  rises  the  Ex»£klML(!o^^  ft. 


to  Cobient.  LINZ.  9.  Route,     73 

above  the  sea,  502  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  a  basaltio  cliff,  the  columnsA 
of  which  are  thicker  than  those  of  the  Minderberg  and  Dattenberg  j 
(see  below) ;  fine  view  from  the  top  (ascent  from  the  W.  aide,  in 
25  min.).    Above  Erpel  are  (L)  Kaahach^  at  the  mouth  of  th? brook 
of  that  name,  and  Linzhaustn  (Hdtel  Weinstock),  the  latter  com- 
manded by  the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  OckenfeU. 

1.  L^  (rail.  stat. ;  ^Weinstock,  R.  &  B.  from  21/2,  !>•  2,  pens, 
from  41/2  Jfi  ^Ewopdischer  Hof,  similar  charges,  these  two  with 
gardens  on  the  Rhine;  Nassauer  Bof^  R.  11/2-2  ufif,  D.  1  ufif  70  pf.; 
Deutscher  Kaiser;  Qoldene  Traube  Restaurant),  an  ancient  town  with 
3500  inhab. ,  is  still  partly  surrounded  by  walls  and  towers.  The 
Romanesque  Church  of  St.  Martin,  dating  from  the  early  ^uxt  of  the 
13th  cent.,  with  a  Gothic  spire  and  other  Gothic  additions  of  the 
16th  cent.,  contains  a  little  fine  stained  glass  and  a  winged  picture 
of  the  old  Cologne  school  (1463).  This  picture  and  the  old  frescoes 
were  restored  in  1850.  The  exterior  has  been  disfigured  by  a  coating 
of  red.  —  Fine  view  from  the  Donatusberg,  or  Kaiserberg,  which  is 
crowned  with  a  chapel  and  Stations  of  the  Gross.  The  environs  of 
Linz  yield  good  red  wine. 

The  extensive  Basalt  Quarries  of  Dattenberg  and  the  Minderberg  near 


Elnz  deserve  inspection,  especially  the  latter.  The  road  to  the  Mindbr- 
BBBO  (about  IVs  hr.)  ascends  the  valley  to  the  E.,  past  the  Stemerhiltte^ 
then  to  the  left,  where  the  quarry  soon  comes  into  view.    It  is  a  spacious 


hall  of  beautiful  black  prismatic  columns  of  basalt,  square  or  hexagonal 
in  form,  some  of  them  upright,  others  heaped  together  in  confused  masses, 
each  3-iO  in.  in  diameter,  and  sometimes  20  ft.  in  length.  Wlyftn  struck 
they  produce  a  clear  metallic  ring.  The  *View  from  the  height  above 
this  quarry  (1^0  ft.  above  the  sea.  1256  ft.  above  the  Rhine)  is  very  fine. 
The  traveller  should  return  via  Ohletiberg  and  Kasbach  to  Erpel  (IV4-I Va  hr.)  \ 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Kasbach  valley  there  is  a  tramway  lor  the  transport 
of  the  stone  from  the  hill  down  to  the  Rhine. 

The  columns  in  the  quarry  of  DATTENBBBa,  situated  in  a  side-valley 
about  li/s  M.  above  Linz,  are  as  high  as  those  of  the  Minderberg,  but 
much  thicker.  These  basalts  are  chiefly  exported  to  the  Lower  Rhine 
and  Holland,  where  they  are  used  in  the  construction  of  dykes. 

r.  Kripp,  ^  small  village  on  the  Rhine,  connected  with  Linz  by 
a  floating  bridge.  ^ 

Between  Remagen  and  Nieder  -  Breisig  the  Rhine  describes  a 
curve  which  the  railway  and  road  cut  off.  The  beautiful  church  of 
(r.)  I^imig  (p.  79,  on  the  railway,  IY2  M.  from  the  river)  i^s^^ifel^e 
from  the  steamboat.    Behind  rises  the  LimMiXQ»  (p-  97). 

We  now  pass  (r.)  the  mouth  of  the  Ahr  (p.  97).  The  church 
tower  of  Dattenberg  (see  above)  is  next  seen  peeping  from  a  ravine 
on  the  left.  On  the  same  bank  lie  Leubsdorf  with  the  Saalhof, 
a  small  building  with  four  turrets,  anciently  a  royal  ohiiteau,  and 
Ariendorf. 

On  the  left  we  next  observe  the  chateau  of  Affm^Qja,  erected  by 
Henry  of  Isenburg ,  and  named  by  him  after  niswife,  a  Countess 
of  Are.  It  is  now  the  piopaaslixjof  Count  Westerholt,  by  whom  it  was 
handsomely  restored  under  the  directions  of  Zwirner  (p.  72 ;  open 
to  visitors  on  Wed.).  —  The  Malbergskopf  (i2^0  U. -,  lV2hr.  from 


74    Route  9,  RHEINECK.  From  Cologne 

Honningen)  Is  crowned  with  a  cross  commemorating  the  war  of 
.  1870-71,  and  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

1.  pongjagen  frail,  stat. ;  H6t  Sehloss  Arenfels,  R.  2,  pens.  4  ujf), 
at  the  foot  of  the  Ajenf^lSj  a  village  with  2800  inhabitants.  In  the 
vicinity  a  strong  mineral  spring  (the  St.  Hnbertus-Sprudel)  was 
tapped  in  1894. 

r.  Nieder-Breisig  (Bender ;  Weisses  Ross),  with  1900  inhab.  and 
many  pleasant  villas.  Near  the  S.  end  of  the  village  stands  part  of 
the  Tempelhofy  an  old  Templars'  Lodge.  About  I8/4  M.  higher  up, 
a  path  ascends  the  wooded  hUl  to  the  — 

r.  Ch&tean  of  Bheineck,  erected  in  1832  by  Herr  von  Beth- 
mann-Hollweg  {6..  iBTzy^from  the  plans  of  Lasaulx  and  decorated 
with  works  of  art  (frescoes  by  Steinle,  etc.).  The  square  tower, 
65  ft.  in  height,  on  the  S.  side ,  is  the  only  relic  of  the  old  castle, 
erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in 
1689,  and  by  the  troops  of  the  Electorate  of  Cologne  in  1692,  and 
finally  burned  in  1785.  The  knights  of  the  castle  became  extinct 
in  1548.   Fine  view  from  the  garden. 

The  Vinx0adi^  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  was  the  ancient  Abrinca  and 
formed  the  boun^ry  between  t.^ie  provincea  of  Upper  ^i^dLcwer  Gfinnania., 
a9  it  still  ffoesbetween  the  Middle  and  Lower  RhenishUialects.  On  its 
S.  bank  lies  the  hamlet  of  Thai  Rheineck. 

The  hills  on  the  left  bank  recede  from  the  river.  In  the  fertile 
plain  at  their  foot  lies  Bheinbrohl frail,  stat.),  a  village  with  1900  in- 
hab. and  two  modern  churches.  —  About  1  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Arien- 
heller  (Ourhaus  Jagerhaus,  R.  &  B.  21/27  pens,  from  5  Jf)y  with  a 
mineral  spring  discovered  in  1897. 

On  the  right,  the  Brohlbach  falls  into  the  Rhine  at  Brohl  (Mttfer , 
R.  1V4-1%7  B.  3/4^  D.  i%  pens.  41/2  Jf;  also  railway-Ttation),  a 
village  with  a  new  Gothic  church,  which  lies  on  the  hill-slope  and 
in  the  valley,  and  is  the  chief  depot  for  the  tufPstone  quarried  in  the 
Brohlthal.  —  Excursion  through  the  Brohlthal  to  Laachy  see  p.  103. 

1.  Nieder-Hammeraiein  (Zwick,  well  spoken  of),  yielding  good 
wine ;  ^QvrUber 'Hammer stein ^  above  which  rises  a  massive  rock  of 
grauwacke,  crowned  with  the  ruin  of  H^merstei^.  Emp.  Henry  IV. 
resided  in  this"  castle  for  some  time  in  1105  when  persecuted  by  his 
son  Henry  V.,  and^  here  he  kept  the  imperial  insignia  till  their  re- 
moval by  his  usurping  successor.  During  the  Thirty  Years*  War  the 
castle  was  successively  occupied  by  Swedes,  Spaniards,  troops  of 
Cologne,  and  soldiers  of  Lorraine,  and  it  was  at  length  destroyed  in 
1660  on  the  instigation  of  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne. 

On  the  heights,  4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Rhine,  the  course  of  the  Pfahl- 
graben^  a  Roman  intrenchment  constructed  as  a  protection  against  the 
attacks  of  thcbfi^QIOUU^ic  tribes,  is  distinctly  traceable,  and  may  be  followed 
from  Monrepos  (p.  TzJ  as  far  as  the  Seven  Mts.  (comp.  p.  244). 

Above  (r.)  Fomich  rises  the  ^^"^j^bigi^uvf  (1040  ft.),  an  extinct 

volcano  commanding  a  wide  prospect  (ascent  from  Brohl  in  1  hr.). 

r.  Namedy,  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  nossessesra  small 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


to  CobUnz,  ANDEUNACH.  9.  Route.     75 

Gothic  ab1>ey-churoh  of  the  14th  cent.,  bisected  by  a  row  of  slender 
columns,  and  an  old  mansion  of  the  knights  of  Namedy,  now  trans- 
formed into  a  chlitean.  On  the  left  lies  the  large  Tillage  (1500  in- 
hab.)  of  JigjiJftidfliJ  (Xoipcnftur^,  R.  2-3,  pens,  from  5  Jf^  very  fair; 
also  rail,  stat.),  behind  which  are  vineyards  planted  among  the  rocks. 
Below  Is  an  old  Gothic  chnrch. 

On  the  right  rises  the  wooded  Krahnenherg  (p.  76),  beyond 
which  the  mountains  confining  the  river  recede. 

r.  Ajidffl^ftOJh.  —  Hotels.  Hacksnbruch,  on  tbe  Bhine,  with  view, 
R.  lV«-iP/t,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  b-^M;  ♦BBBWrtcHBR  Hop,  B.  2-2V2,  B. »/«, 
D.  IVz,  pens.  4-5  M;  *Schafeb,  on  the  Schanzcben,  near  ihe  Bhine,  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  town,  B.  2-274,  B.  »/«,  D.  2-2V«,  pens.  5-6  Jl;  •Ankbr, 
opposite  the  pier,  B.  2-2V2*  B.  »/4,  D.  iV«-2  M.  —  HdTw,  Dahnen,  Glocke, 
R.  IV2-2  Ur,  B.  80  pf,  D.  IV2,  pens,  from  41/2  UT,  both -hr  the  Markt.  — 
Thelm^s  Beer  Houses  in  the  Markt.  —  Omnilnu  from  the  steamer  to  the 
Krahnenbei^  railway  10  pf. 

Andemachj  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  7900  inhab.,  with 
narrow  streets,  and  still  to  a  great  extent  surrounded  by  its  old  walls, 
extends  picturesquely  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  above  which  rise 
conspicuously  the  old  bastion ,  the  Rhelnthor,  and  the  lofty  tower 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  village,  while  the  handsome  parish-church 
vrlth,  its  four  towers  is  visible  in  the  background.  Andernach  was 
the  Roman  Antunnacum,  or  Antonaco,  one  of  the  fifty  forts  of  Dru- 
sus.  Subsequently  to  the  6th  cent,  it  is  frequently  mentioned  as  a 
royal  Frankish  residence.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  an  Imperial 
town,  but  was  taken  by  the  Electorate  of  Cologne  in  1496;  in  1688 
it  was  burned  by  the  French. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  near  the  Coblenzer  Thor,  from  a 
deep  fosse,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  once  fortified  Castle  of  the  Electors 
of  Cologne,  with  its  massive  towers,  erected  in  the  15th  cent.,  and 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1688.  —  The  Rathhaus,  a  late-Gothic 
building  of  1564,  contains  a  few  Roman  and  Frankish  antiquities, 
including  the  so-called  *  Jews'  Bath*,  a  cistern  42  ft.  deep,  16  ft. 
long,  and  13  ft.  broad. 

The  lofty  round  W^j^cf^^Jlower  on  the  Rhine,  with  an  octagonal 
story  above,  adorned'witha  friVie  of  pointed  arches,  was  erected  in 
1451-68  and  restored  in  1880.  The  wide  breach  on  the  W.  side  was 
made  by  the  French  cannonade  in  1688.  A  little  farther  on  is  the 
spot  where  the  lava  millstones,  tufa,  trass,  and  other  volcanic  pro- 
ducts of  the  neighbourhood  are  shipped. 

The  Parish  Churchy  dedicated  to  St.  Genovefa,  with  its  four 
towers  and  richly-decorated  portals,  is  a  fine  late-Romanesque  edifice 
(1206),  without  a  transept.  The  still  earlier  choir,  around  which 
runs  a  gallery  of  small  columns,  dates  from  1120. 

Over  the  aisles  are  galleries,  reached  by  steps  cat  in  the  thickness 
of  the  wall,  with  elegant  arcades  in  front.  On  the  vaalting  of  the  nave 
are  the  imperial  arms,  with  those  of  the  town  and  of  Hermann  IV.,  Arch- 
bishop of  Cologne  (d.  1508).  Choir  decorated  in  1856.  Carved  wooden  pnlpit 
brought  in  1807  from  the  Abbey  of  Laacb  (p.  105).    I>atc-Uomancsque  font. 


76     Routed.  NEUWIED.  From  Cologne 

The  foot  of  the  Krahnenberg  may  be  reached  in  about  10  min. 
either  from  the  Btation  (turn  to  the  left  after  passing  under  the 
railway,  then  to  the  left  again),  or  &om  the  Rhine  (yi^  the  Kirch- 
Strasse  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town  and  past  the  choir  of  the 
parish  church).  The  ascent  (V4  ^^0  is  somewhat  steep  (cable  rail- 
way, return-fare  50  pf.).  At  the  top  are  the  restaurants  Krahnen- 
hurg  and  Kaiserburg,  which  command  beautiful  views  (best  in  the 
afternoon). 

Railway  from  Andeitiach  to  Niedermendig  and  May  en,  see  p.  102. 

Near  the  village  of  IrlicK  on  the  E.  bank,  the.  Wisdbach  falls 
into  the  Rhine.  The  hill  rising  on  the  "W.  bank,  a  little  inland,  is 
the  Plaidter  Hummerich  (695  ft.). 

1.  ^[Q]UEied  (rail.  stat.).  —  Hotels.  •Wildek  Mann,  R.  2,  B.  1,  D.  2V2, 
S.  IV2  Jf;  Anebr,  both  on  the  Rhine  ^  *Mokavian  Hotel,  frequented  by 
English  travellers,  with  restaurant,  R.  13/4-2V2  J(,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  2Va,  pens. 
4V2-5V«^;  Stelting,  these  two  in  the  town;  Bahnhofs-Hotel,  very  fair-, 
Madbb,  at  the  station  of  the  right  bank,  R.  A  B.  2-2V2  Jf- 

A  Floating  Bridge  0  pf.)  and  a  JSteam  Ferry  (6  pf.)  maintain  communi- 
cation between  the  two  banks. 

Neuwiedf  a  pleasant  and  thriving  town,  with  broad,  well-built 
streets,  was  founded  in  1653,  on  the  site  of  the  village  of  Langen- 
dorf,  which  had  been  destroyed  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  by  Count 
Frederick  of  Wied,  who  invited  numerous  settlers,  without  distinc- 
tion of  religion  or  payment  of  money.  Under  his  auspices  the  town 
rapidly  increased.  The  population  (11,000)  consists  of  Protestants, 
Roman  Catholics  (3800),  Moravian  Brothers,  Baptists,  and  Jews, 
who  have  lived  together  here  in  great  harmony  since  that  period. 
Starch,  chicory,  tobacco,  and  cigars  are  the  principal  products.  The 
schools  of  Neuwied  enjoy  a  high  reputation,  and  are  attended  by 
pupils  from  England  as  well  as  from  all  parts  of  Germany. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  rises  the  spacious  Palace  of  the 
Prince  of  Wied,  with  its  fine  Park,  A  building  near  the  palace 
gate,  adjoining  the  street,  contains  a  small  Collection  of  Roman 
Antiquities^  from  Niederbiber  (see  below). 

The  Moravian  Brothers,  also  called  Hermhuter  from  Herrnhut  in 
Saxony,  where  they  had  established  themselves  after  their  expulsion 
from  Moravia  during  the  Thirty  dears'  War,  occupy  a  separate  part  of 
the  town.  They  were  originally  followers  of  John  Huss,  and  their  number 
increased  enormously  after  his  death.  They  now  form  a  kind  of  religious 
republic,  having  their  own  laws  both  for  public  and  private  life,  which 
are  administered  by  their  elders.  The  gravity  and  austerity  of  their  manners 
and  habits  has  gained  for  them  the  appellation  of  the  Quakers  of  Germany. 
The  unmarried  brethren  live  in  a  separate  building,  and  carry  on  di£ferent 
trades,  the  profits  of  which  are  devoted  to  the  community.  Fayence  stoves 
and  deerskin  gloves  are  their  best  manufactures.  At  stated  seasons  Uove 
feasts^  are  celebrated  in  the  church,  accompanied  by  singing,  prayers,  a 
sermon,  and  tea -drinking.  Their  schools  are  well  attended  and  in  high 
repute  (visitors  admitted). 

From  Keuwied  a  Steam  Tbamwat  ascends  ttie  valley  of  the  ITted,  via 
Heddersdor/  and  the  Rasselslein  Foundry ,  to  (2V2  M.)  Aiederhiber,  the  church 
of  which  contains  the  tomb  of  Archbishop  Count  Hermann  von  Wied 
(p.  85).  Near  Niederbiber  were  found  extensive  remains  of  a  Roman  castle, 
one  of  the  largest  oii  the  Rhine,   which,   however,   is  not  mentioned  by 


to  Coblen%.  ENGERS.  9.  Route.     77 

any  Roman  author;  the  excavations  have  again  been  covered  in  (comp. 
p.  76).  Thence  the  tramway  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Aubaeh  to  (AVi  M.) 
Oberbiher  (Wiedischer  Hot),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wellbach.  In  the  valley 
of  the  Aubaeh,  2V2  M.  from  Oberbiber,  is  the  Brauniberger  Hof^  with  a 
frequented  garden -restaurant  and  a  picturesque  ruined  castle.  —  From 
Oberbiber  the  road  proceeds  to  (21/2  M.)  the  high-lying  village  of  JUngtdorf 
(980  ft. ;  Anhauser  \  Post),  visited  as  a  summer-resort. 

ExcuESioN  FKOM  l^EuwiED  TO  MoNKEPos  AND  Altwikd.  At  the  Rasscl- 
stein  Foundry  (p.  76)  walkers  cross  the  stream,  beyond  which  they 
traverse  tbe  pleasant  park  of  Nothhausen  (restaurant)  to  (2  M.)  Segendor/ 
(WolJBf).  From  Segendorf  a  road  ascends  in  windings  j  but  these  the 
pedestrian  juay  avoid  by  taking  the  footpath  to  the  left  above  Segendorf, 
by  which  Monrepos  is  reached  in  V*  l»r.  —  Monxfipoa  (10i5  ft. ;  870  ft.  above 
the  Bhine),  a  chateau  of  the  Prince  of  Wied,  stands  in  a  beautiful  park 
and  commandjuan  extensive  prospect^refreshments  at  the  ifahnho/,  to  the 
W.  of  the  chSLteau).  Good  points  of  view  in  the  vicinity  are  the  (lO  min.) 
ffolettou  and  the  *Altufieder  Aussicht.  Footpaths  descend  from  the  latter 
in  20  min.  to  Altwied  (HerbsVs  Inn ,  where  the  key  of  the  castle  is  kept), 
commanded  by  the  extensive  ivy-clad  ruins  of  the  ancestral  castle  ol  the 
ancient  Counts  of  Wied. 

Immediately  above  Neuwied,  on  the  left,  are  the  flgr^(yinf- 
j^yttej  the  property  of  the  Krupp  Co.  of  Essen  (p.  62),  and  the 
Oermania  foundry.  On  the  opposite  bank  are  the  railway-station  of 
Neuwied'WeisserUhurm  (p.  78)  and  the  village  of  — 

r.  Wftii^^ptl^mqin^  at  the  N.  end  of  which  rises  a  lofty  scmare 
vvatjiltto£^  (1370),  the  extreme  point  of  the  dominions  of  the 
Electors  of  Treves,  which  here  adjoined  those  of  Cologne.  Above 
the  village  stands  an  obelisk  erected  by  the  *Sambre  and  Meuse 
army'  to  the  French  general  Hockey  who  died  at  Wetzlar  in  1797. 

r.  UrmitjB,  2/4  M.  from  the  railway-station  of  that  name. 

On  both  banks  of  the  river  here  is  dug  up  a  peculiar  kind  of  pumice  J 
stone  conglomerate  (p.  103).    It  is  cut  into  squares,  mixed  with  mortar,  j  ^ 
and  dried,  and  is  much  valued  as  a  building  material  for  inside  walls.  —  j 
The  quarrying  operations  led  in  1898  to  the  discovery  of  two  Roman  camps 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  between  Weissenthurm  and  Unnitz.    The  I 
one  nearer  the  river,  upwards  of  400  yds.  in  circumference,  was  probably  \-f- 
designed  to  protect  the  bridge  constructed  here  by  Julius  (^cesar.    Bridge-   j 
piles  were  also  found  in  dredging  the  river.  ' 

1.  Eagers  (^Zur  Romerbriicke;  Restaurant  Schunkert,  on  the 
Rhine;  uttel-RestauraTii  FUgel,  at  the  railway-station),  formerly 
Kunostein-Engersy  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Engersgau.  The  chitean , 
now  a  military  school,  was  erected  in  1758  by  Elector  Johann 
PhiUpp  von  Walderdorf.  —  Then,  on  the  opposite  bank,  Katten- 
Engers  and  St.  Sebastian  Engers. 

Near  (1.)  MvMhofen^  where  the  Saynbach  falls  into  the  Rhine, 
are  several  foundries.  On  the  river  is  the  hydropathic  of  Rheinau 
(R.  from  2,  pens.  6  Jf).  On  a  hill  in  the  background  of  the  valley 
rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Sayn  (p.  83). 

1.  Bendorf  (isal.  stat.,  p.  84),  at  some  distance  from  the  river; 
farther  up  (r.),  the  village  of  Kesselheim,  opposite  the  Niederwerth^ 
which  conceals  the  town  of  (1.)  VaUendar  (p.  84)  and  the  village  of 
Mallendar  with  the  chateau  of  Besselieh  (formerly  belonging  to  the 
Knights  Templar,  now  private  property). 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


78    RouU  10.  WEISSENTHUKM.  From  ColUnz 

On  the  long  island  of  fl.l  NiederwerthAs  a  viUage,Jwith  a  convent 
church  built  in  1500)  containing  a  carved  altar  and  fragments  of 
good  stained  glass.  Edward  III.  of  England  resided  here  for  a  short 
time  in  1337,  and  had  several  interviews  with  the  Emp.  Lewis  and 
other  princes. 

1.  Vrhar  (p.  112),  high  up  on  the  hillside,  surrounded  with 
fruit-trees. 

r.  WaUef^shtim^  above  it  Neuendorfs  chiefly  inhabited  by  raftsmen. 

The  steamboat  now  passes  the  base  of  Ehrenbreitstein ,  opposite 
the  influx  of  the  Moselle,  commanding  an  excellent  view  of  the 
imposing  Emp.  William  Monument,  and  stops  at  Coblenz  (p.  106). 

10.  From  Coblenz  to  Cologne. 

Railway  on  the  Left  Bank. 
Comp.  Map$,  pp.  70^  68. 

•"^iT  Railway  in  li/rS  hrs.  (fares  8  UT  20,  6  *#  10,  4  Jl^  30,  or  7  UT  80, 
5*#  50,  3*#  70  pf.).  View  of  the  Rhine  on  the  right.  —  Railway  on  the 
Right  Bank,  see  R.  11.  —  Steamboat,  see  R.  9. 

Travellers,  whether  holding  single  or  retam-tickets,  are  entitled  to 
break  their  journey  once,  and  may  afterwards  proceed  by  the  railway  on 
either  bank  at  their  choice.  Coblem  and  EhrenbreittteirTXcrosBing  the  railway- 
bridge  60,  30,  20  pf.  additional),  Nettwied  on  the  left  (Weissenthnrm)  and 
Neutoied  on  the  right  bank,  Andemaeh  and  Leutesdor/^  Brohl  and  JiAeIn* 
&roA2,  Nieder-Breiiig  and  Eifnningm^  Simig  and  Lingj  Remagen  and  Erp$lj 
Rolandseck  and  Sonne/ ^  Mehlem  and  Kdnigtwmter^  Godesberg  and  Ober- 
cassel^  Bonn  and  Beuel,  Cologne  and  Deutz. 

CoblenZj  see  p.  105.  As  the  train  crosses  the  Moselle  a  view  of 
the  old  Moselle  Bridge,  with  the  Emp.  William  Monument  and  the 
fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  beyond  it,  is  obtained  to  the  right.  At 
the  foot  of  the  fortified  Petersberg  (1.)  is  a  pyramidal  monument  in 
honour  of  the  French  general  Marceau  (d.  1796;  comp.  p.  108). 
The  train  now  traverses  an  extensive  and  fertile  plain.  At  (5V2  ^0 
Urmitz  are  large  stores  of  the  Engers  stone  mentioned  at  p.  77. 

8  M.  WeiBsentlmrm-Keiiwied  (steamb.  stat.,  see.p.  77).  The 
station  is  Y3  M.  from  the  Rhine,  across  which  communication  is 
maintained  by  a  steamer  and  a  flying  bridge  with  the  town  on  the 
opposite  bank  (p.  76).  The  train  crosses  the  Nette,  passes  the  lunatic 
asylum  of  8t.  Thomas  (1.) ,  a  modem  Gothic  building  with  a  Ro- 
manesque chapel  (12th  cent.),  and  reaches  — 

1072  M.  Andemaeh  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  75.  The  station  is 
V4M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town.  (Branch-line  to  Mayen,  seep.  102.) 
Beyond  Andemaeh  the  train  skirts  the  Rhine  and  commands  a  fine 
view  in  both  directions  (comp.  p.  75). 

Opposite  (15  M.)  Brohl  (Brohlthal,  etc.,  see  R.  15)  is  the  church 
of  Rheinbrohl.  The  train  passes  the  foot  of  Schloss  Rheineek  and 
(I5V2  M.)  Nieder-Breisig  (p.  74),  opposite  (r.)  the  ch&teau  of  Aren-- 
felsj  and  then  cuts  off  the  wide  curve  which  the  Rhine  describes 
between  Nieder-Breisig  and  Remagen. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


to  Cologne,  GODESBERG.  10.  Route.     79 

2OY2  M.  Sinzig  (Deutsches  Haus;  Bheinischer  Hof),  probably  the 
Roman  Sentidcunij  a  very  ancient  town  with  SOOOinhab.,  still  partly 
surrounded  by  walls,  lies  at  the  entrance  to  the  Ahr  Valley  (R.  14), 
IY2  ^'  ^'om  the  Rhine.  It  was  once  the  site  of  a  Frankish  palace, 
afterwards  an  imperial  residence,  which  latterly  belonged  to  the 
Dukes  pf  Julich.  Picturesquely  situated  on  a  slight  eminence  rises 
the  handsome  Parish  C^urcA,  which  was  consecrated  in  1220,  a  fine 
example  of  the  late-Romanesque  style,  the  round  arch  predominat- 
ing, with  very  slightly  projecting  transepts,  square  turrets  at  the 
sides  of  the  choir,  three  apses,  and  an  octagonal  tower  rising  over 
the  centre.  The  interior  has  recently  been  restored  and  decorated. 
The  details  of  the  capitals  and  string-courses  repay  examination. 
The  N.  transept  contains  a  good  winged  picture  on  a  gold  ground, 
representing  the  Crucifixion  and  Ascension,  and  the  Death  of  Mary, 
by  an  early  Cologne  master,  restored  in  1855.  At  the  foot  of  this 
eminence  is  a  tasteful  little  Gothic  ChdteaUy  built  in  1858  by 
Statz  of  Cologne,  the  property  of  Mr.  Bunge  of  Antwerp.  On  the 
Helenenberg,  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  rises  another  pleasant  country- 
house. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  insignificant  Ahty  from  the  valley  of 
which  rises  the  blunted  cone  of  the  Landskron  (p.  97).  This 
district  is  extremely  fertile,  and  is  called  the  ^Ooldene  MeU\ 

23  M.  Bemagen  (steamb.  stat.)  and  the  ApoUinaris-Kirchej  see 
pp.  71,  72.  This  is  the  station  for  the  Ahr  Valley  railway  (R.  14). 
The  train  returns  to  the  river  here ;  fine  retrospect,  and  farther  on 
beautiful  view  of  the  opposite  bank  and  the  Seven  Mountains 
(comp.  p.  70).  —  26V2  M.  Oberwinter  (p.  71). 

27^2  M.  Bolandseok  (steamb.  stat. ;  Rail.  Restaurant ,  with 
verandah  and  magnificent  *View,  see  p.  70).  In  the  river  lies  the 
island  of  Nonnenwerth^  a  little  below  which  rise  the  picturesque 
Drachenfels  and  the  Seven  Mts.,  on  the  opposite  bank. 

The  train  now  quits  the  river.  3O72  M.  HeUem,  the  station 
for  Konigswinter  on  the  right  bank  (p.  91).  —  On  the  DraUehberg^ 
to  the  left,  is  the  new  Chdteau  von  der  Heydt.  Beyond  it  is  the 
park  of  Elisenruhe, 

32  M.  Oodesberg.  —  Hotels.  •Blinzlee,  Kurfursten-Str.,  a  large 
establishment,  with  garden,  R.  from  3,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  9-12  Ul^;  *Adlek, 
Hanpt-Str.,  B.  8-6,  B.  1,  D.  from  2,  pens,  from  QJf;  Hdttkotiauch,  at  the 
raUway-station,  well  spoken  of,  R.  1V2-5,  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens.  6Jt.  —  Pensions. 
Rotenburg  (from  BUlT  per  day),  Wilhehna  (6-9  UlT),  QUnther  (5-8  UO,  Haus 
Lichtenstein  (S'/s-S  Jf),  Familien-ffeim ,  in  the  Rhein-All^e.  —  Hotels  at 
(»/«  M.)  Eiingsdopf  and  at  PUttersdorf,  see  p.  69. 

Tramway  to  Bonn  and  to  Mehlem,  see  p.  85.  —  Steamboat  Station 
(3/4  M.  to  the  E.),  see  p.  69. 

English  Ohurch  Service  in  the  English  Chapel  in  the  Rhein-Allee 
(p.  80).  ^  "^ 

Oodesberg^  a  town  with  8900  inhab.,  situated  at  the  point  where 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine  begins  to  expand,  is  a  favourite  summer- 
resort,  where  wealthy  merchants  of  Cologne,  Elberfeld,  and  Cre- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


80    Route  10.  BRUHL. 

feld  have  erected  a  number  of  handsome  villas,  surrounded  by 
pleasant  gardens.  The  Hydropathic  Establishment^  adjoining  Blinzler's 
Hotel,  is  much  frequented  (8-14  Jf  per  day).  The  Draiseh  or  Draitsch, 
an  alkaline  chalybeate  spring,  sunk  afresh  in  1864,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  small  Oudenauer-Thal,  at  the  foot  of  the  Draischberg  (p.  79), 
was  known  to  the  Romans.  A  well-appointed  mineral  water  bath 
was  opened  in  1902.  —  A  pleasant  walk  ascends  the  Gudenau 
valley  to  the  farm  of  Matienforst^  whence  paths  traverse  the  woods 
to  Kottenforst.  To  the  N.  of  the  mineral  spring  is  a  hill  Mdth  a  large 
Protestant  Orphanage.  Adjacent  is  the  *Wendelstadt'Hdhej  an  ad- 
mirable point  of  view.  —  The  favourite  promenade  is  the  Rhein- 
Allee,  near  the  station,  with  the  English  Chapel. 

On  a  basaltic  eminence  (246  ft. ;  400  ft.  above  the  sea),  V2  M. 
to  the  N.  of  the  station,  stands  the  ruined  Castle  of  €K>de8berg, 
which  was  built  by  the  Archbishops  of  Cologne  in  the  13-14th  cent, 
and  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  Roman  fort.  It  was  destroyed  by 
the  Bavarians  in  1583.  The  partly  restored  *pala8*  contains  a  good 
restaurant.  Fine  view  from  the  platform  of  the  tower  (98  ft.  high). 
The  Cemetery  of  the  village  lies  within  the  precincts  of  the  castle. 

On  the  right ,  as  Bonn  is  approached ,  immediately  after  the 
train  has  crossed  the  Bonn  and  Coblenz  road,  is  seen  the  Boch- 
kreuzy  a  Gothic  column  30  ft.  high,  erected  in  1332-49  to  a  knight, 
who  is  said  to  have  fallen  in  a  duel  at  this  spot,  and  restored  in 
1854.  On  the  hill  to  the  left  is  the  Rosenburg  (p.  90),  and  farther 
off  the  Kreuzberg  (p.  89).  To  the  right  appears  Bonn  with  its  con- 
spicuous new  Protestant  church  and  its  lofty  minster-tower. 

36  M.  Bonn  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  84 ;  steam-ferry  to  Ober- 
cassel,  see  p.  81 ;  railway  to  Euskirchen,  see  p.  202. 

To  the  W.,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  line,  is  a  chain  of  low 
and  partly-wooded  hills  called  the  Vorgehirge  or  Ville^  on  which 
numerous  villages  with  orchards  and  country-houses  are  situated. 
The  last  vineyards  in  the  land  of  the  grape  are  now  passed.  Near 
(40  M.)  Roisdorf  i\&et%  a  mineral  spring  resembling  that  of  Selters. 
—  44  M.  Sechtem.   Before  reaching  — 

471/2  M.  Bruhl  (^Pavilion  ;  Belvedere ;  Deutscher  Kaiier,  opposite 
the  park-gates),  a  town  with  6400  inhab.,  the  train  intersects  the 
park  of  Bruhl,  passing  the  chateau  of  Falkerdust  on  the  right,  which 
was  once  a  hunting-lodge  of  the  electors,  but  is  now  private  property, 
and  stops  opposite  the  royal  *8chlo8s  Bruhl.  This  handsome  build- 
ing, erected  by  Elector  Clement  Augustus  in  1725-28  from  the  plans 
of  J.  0.  Schlaun,  and  altered  and  elaborated  in  subsequent  decades, 
was  restored  in  1842  and  1876-77.  It  offers  classical  examples  of 
the  French  and  German  rococo  style  in  all  stages  of  its  development. 
Admission  from  10  (Sun.  U)  to  6  (in  winter  4),  26  pf.  The  garden 
and  park  are  always  open  to  the  public. 

The  Staircase,  the  handsomest  18th  cent,  structure  of  the  kind  in 
W.  Germany,  with  stucco  sculptures  and  paintings  by  StHber^  was  corn- 
Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


OBEROASSEL.  11.  Route,    81 

pleted  in  1748.  The  Sallx  dxs  Gaxdbs  and  the  Dining  Hall  are  adorned 
in  the  late-rococo  style  by  Roth.  The  "S.  Wino  exhibits  the  elegant  ta«te 
of  the  early  French  rococo  period,  as  interpreted  by  Leveilkr  (1728-32). 
The  Gakdkn  Wing  illustrates  German  rococo  (ca.  1750).  The  palace  con- 
tains a  rich  collection  of  portraits,  carved  furniture,  and  tine  porcelain  stoves. 

50  V2  M.  Kalscheurerif  junction  for  the  Elf  el  Railway  (p.  202).  The 
crowded  houses  of  Cologne  soon  come  in  sight.  The  train  describes  a 
curve  round  part  of  the  town,  above  whose  ramparts  tower  the  impos- 
ing cathedral  and  other  churches,  passes  the  Cologne  South  Station 
and  West  Station  (p.  26) ,  and  enters  the  central  station  at  — 

57  M.   Ck>logn6,  see  R.  3. 


11.  From  Cologne  (Deutz)  to  Ehrenbreitstein  (Cohleiiz), 

Railway  on  the  Right  Bank. 

Comp.  Mapi^  pp.  68^  70. 
56  M.  Railway  in  l^A-S  hra.  (fares  7  *#  30,  5  UlT  50,  3  Jf  70  pf.,  express 
8  Uir  20,  6  Uir  10,  4  Jr  30  pf.).  —  views  to  the  right.  —  For  return-tickets 
and  break  of  journey,  comp.  p.  78. 

From  Cologne  to  (13  M.)  Troisdorf,  see  p.  65.  —  14  M. 
Friedrich-Wilhelms-Hiitte,  an  extensive  foundry.  The  train  crosses 
the  Sieg,  and  returns  to  the  Rhine  at  (18  M.)  Beuel,  connected 
with  Bonn  by  the  new  Rhine  bridge  (p.  90). 

2OV2M.  Oherctasel  (^Wolfsburg,  with  veranda  and  garden,  very 
fail),  a  thriving  little  town  with  an  old  church-tower  and  a  large 
cement-factory ,  lies  on  the  Rhine  amidst  fruit-trees ,  and  affords 
pleasant  summer-quarters.  Well -constructed  walks  lead  to  the 
Steinerne  Hauschen  (^/^  M.  from  the  station ;  fine  view),  the  quarries 
of  the  Babenleiy  Heisterbach  (p.  95;  2  M.),  and  other  picturesque 
points  in  the  neighbourhood.  Near  the  village  of  Kiidinghofen,  2  M. 
from  the  station,  rises  the  Ennert  (518  ft.).  Adjacent  are  extensive 
basalt  quarries.  —  Obercassel  is  connected  with  the  Left  Rhenish 
Railway  at  Bonn  by  a  steam- ferry  (p.  84). 

221/2  M.  Dollendorf  is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  among 
the  Seven  Mts.  The  station  (Restaurant  zur  Weintraube)  is  at  Nieder- 
Dollendorf  (Krone,  pens.  4  ulf),  on  the  Rhine,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Heisterback  Valley^  which  is  ascended  by  a  steam- tram  way,  passing 
(IV4M.)  Ober-Dollendorf^Piemhgen'a  Restaurant) ;  21/2  M.  Heister- 
bach (p.  95) ;  Waldstation,  at  the  divergence  of  the  route  to  the 
Margarethenhof  (Oelberg,  Ldwenburg;  comp.  p.  94)  j  3V4M,  Hdtter' 
bacherrott;  and  (4  M.)  Orengelsbitze, 

231/2  M.  Kdnigswinter  (steamh.  stat.;  p.  91)  is  the  favourite 
starting-point  for  exploring  the  Seven  Mts.  (R.  13).  The  station 
lies  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now  contracts.  The  train  skirts  the  base 
of  the  Drachenfels  and  runs  close  to  the  river. 

BaEDEKBB'8  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  Digitized  by  (j^OOglc 


82    Route  11.  HONNEF.  From  Cologne 

26  M.  Shondorf.  —  Hotels.  Dbaghbnfels,  Bbllevub,  both  on  the 
Rhine ;  Wolkenbueg,  R.  IV2  *#,  B.  60  pf.,  D.  IV2,  pens.  A  J^.  —  Pension 
Klein,  R.  2V2-3,  D.  2-21/2,  pens.  4V2-5  *#.  —  Marienbad  Htdeopathic,  on 
the  Eneipp  system.   —    Omnibus  to  Kdnigswinter  and  Honnef,  see  below. 

Bhbndorf  is  a  pleasant  summer-resort.  In  the  little  churcli  is  a 
well-preserved  tombstone,  in  trachyte  from  the  Drachenfels,  of  the 
last  knight  of  Dracbenfels,  with  armorial  bearings  and  date  1630, 
brought  here  from  the  abbey  of  Heisterbach.  —  From  Rhondorf  to 
the  Lowenburg,  I74  hr.,  see  p.  96;  to  the  Drachenfels  40  min., 
by  a  bridle-path  via  the  Kanzel  and  the  SiegfriedaUippen,  indicated 
by  a  flnger-post  on  the  Lowenburg  road,  mentioned  at  p.  96 ;  to 
Konigswlnter  1^4  M. 

27  M.  Honnef.  —  Hotels.  *H6tel  Klein,  with  garden  and  view, 
R.  2V2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V2i  pens.  5-6  Uf;  Weinstook;  Zdh  SiBBENaEBiBGE, 
unpretending,  with  restaurant,  R.  IV2-2,  B.  V**  ^'  ^^fO^^  iV**  P®'^*'  f'om 
4y«  •*»  Webel,  R.  from  3,  B,  1,  D.  2»/2,  pens,  from  6  UT,  well  spoken 
of;  Rddesheim.  R.  IV2-2,  B.  1,  D.  IV2,  pens.  4  •#.  —  Pensions  (all  good): 
Schotten  (5-6  Jf  per  day),  Kereher  (from  5  •#),  BiscWW  (5-6  Jl\  Erholvng 
{Krdmer;  5-6  UlOt  all  these  with  large  gardens;  O,  Stang  (41/2-6  U»).  —  The 
Hohen-Hormef  Sanatorium  (775  ft),  well  situated  on  the  Fnchshardt  (carr, 
from  the  station  in  25  min.,  4-6  J()y  is  an  admirably  equipped  establish- 
ment for  safferers  from  weak  lungs  (R.  from  2,  bosurd  7-8  Jl).  —  Rhein' 
gold  Restaurant^  on  the  slope  of  the  Reichenberg,  with  view;  Dahlhanstn^ 
cafe  and  confectioner,  Haupt-Str.  68. 

Omnibus  to  KhUndorf  (see  above  \  20  pf.)  and  to  Kdnigswinter  (p.  91  •, 
80  pf.),  15-18  times  daily. 

Oarriages.  From  the  station  to  Honnef,  for  1-4  pers.,  one-horse  80  pf., 
two-horse  \  Jl ;  to  RhUnsdorf  or  Rolandseck  Ferry ^  one-horse  1,  two-horse 
IV2  Jl;  to  Kdnigswinter  2  or  21/2  •#,  there  and  back  2^/4  or  3Va  Jl;  to 
the  Margarethenhof  or  the  Ldwenbvrger  Hof  7  or  9  Jl,  there  and  back 
9  or  12  U!^;  for  half-a-day  9  or  12,  whole  day  15  or  20  UT. 

Boat  to  Rolandseck  or  to  Konigswinter  2  Jl, 

River  Baths  near  the  railway-station. 

Honnef  J  a  scattered  village  vdth  6500  inhab.,  lies  8/4  M.  to  the 
left  of  the  railway,  and  comprizes  a  number  of  pleasant  villas,  some 
of  which  are  let  to  visitors.  The  church  is  handsome.  Honnef  is 
one  of  the  pleasantest  and  sunniest  spots  on  the  Rhine,  being 
sheltered  from  the  N.  and  E.  winds  by  the  Seven  Mts.,  and  sur- 
rounded by  vineyards  and  orchards.  Owing  to  its  genial  climate  and 
pretty  scenery  it  has  become  a  favourite  resort  from  early  spring  to 
late  autumn.  The  DrachenquelUj  a  mineral  spring,  is  used  for 
drinking  and  bathing. 

Envibons.  Beautiful  walks,  furnished  with  guide-posts,  lead  via  Bon- 
dor/^  passing  the  Eecken/els  on  the  left,  to  the  Annathal ;  along  the  Rhine  to 
Kdnigswinter  and  the  island  of  Ora/enwerth ;  to  EoTien-Honne/  (see  above)  and 
then  by  a  path  diverging  from  the  road  to  the  left  to  the  Rheingold  (see  above), 
MooshUtte.  Augusthdhe^  CapeUe^  and  the  Ldwenburg  (p.  96;  in  all  IV2  hr.); 
to  the  poplars  above  Rommersdor/ (:p.  91)\  via  BeUhof  to  Memenberg  (restau- 
rant; on  the  slope  of  the  hill  is  grown  the  best  red  wine  of  the  district), 
past  the  large  Hager-Hof^  by  a  footpath  to  Rheinbreitbach  (p.  71),  and 
back  by  the  road  to  Honnef  (comp.  the  Map,  p.  92);  by  Menzenberg  to 
the  Eager  Kdppelehen  (V2  hr. ;  fine  view) ;  over  the  Eeidenkamm  to  the  Eaa- 
nenburg  (Vi  hr.) ;  via  Sellhof  to  the  (1  hr.)  Leiberg  (1140  ft.),  a  basaltic  hiU 
commanding  a  beautiful  view. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


io  Coblenz.  SAYN.  11,  Route,    83 

In  the  RMne,  to  the  right,  lie  the  islands  of  Nonnenwerth  and 
Qtafenwerth;  on  the  opposite  bank  are  the  picturesque  arched  ruin 
of  Rolandseck  and  the  village  of  that  name.  The  village  of  Ehein- 
hreitbach  (p.  71)  is  next  passed,  opposite  which  is  Oberwinter.  At 
(24  M.)  Unkel  (p.  71)  the  train  quits  the  fertile  plain  which  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  Seven  Mts.,  and  passes  Erpelj  opposite  to  which  lies 
Remagen  with  the  elegant  Apollinaris-Kirche  (pp.  71,  72). 

34  M.  Linz  (steamh.  stat. ;  p.  73)  lies  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Ahr,  above  which,  a  little  inland,  rises  the  handsome  church  of  ^Sinsiy. 
The  train  next  passes  Leubadorf^  Schloas  Arenfels,  and  Ariendorf, 
Opposite (38 M.)  Honningen  (p.  74)  is  Nieder-Breisig,  a  little  above 
which  rises  Schloaa  Rheineck,  The  train  passes  (40  M.)  Rheinbrohl,  with 
its  Gothic  church  (opposite  the  Brohl  Valley ^  p.  103),  and  Nieder-  and 
Ober-Hammerstein,  at  the  base  of  the  Hammerstein.  On  the  opposite 
bank,  a  little  above  (43^/2  M.)  Leuttsdorf  (p.  76),  the  picturesque 
and  ancient  town  of  Andemaeh  (p.  76),  with  its  round  tower  and 
handsome  church  in  the  background,  comes  into  sight.  The  valley 
of  the  Rhine  expands ;  the  train  crosses  the  Wied^  skirts  the  park 
of  the  Prince  of  Wied,  and  stops  at  — 

47  M.  Keuwied  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  76).  The  station  is  V2  ^'  to 
the  E.  of  the  town.  The  train  now  runs  inland  and  traverses  an 
extensive  plain,  but  returns  to  the  river  at  the  next  station. 

49 V2  M.  Engers  (p.  77),  the  junction  for  the  line  to  Alten- 
kirchen  and  Limburg. 

Fboh  ENasRS  TO  SiEBSHAHN,  13  M.,  railway  in  */4  br.  (1  Jl  80,  90, 
45  pf.).  —  The  line  crosses  the  Saynbach ,  and  ascenas  the  left  bank  of 
the  stream.  ' 

l»/4  M.  Sayn  (H6tel  Friedrichsberg^  R.  lV2-2*#,  very  fair;  Krvpp^  pens, 
from  4  •#;  HdM  Holler)  ^  with  extensive  iron -works  belonging  to  the 
Krnpp  Co,  of  Essen,  and  a  ch&tean  and  park  of  Prince  Sayn-Wittgenstein- 
Sayn,  commanded  by  the  mined  castle  of  Sayn,  has  a  population  of  1500. 
—  Schloia  Sajm  (adm.  50  pf.)  is  handsomely  fitted  up  and  contains  a  good 
collection  of  modern  pictures  and  sculptures,  and  a  colossal  wooden  figure 
of  Henry  III.  of  Sayn  (d.  1246),  originally  belonging  to  his  sarcophagus  in 
the  abbey  of  Sayn,  of  which  he  wa0  the  founder.  The  pretty  Pavk  lies 
on  the  slope  of  the  hill ,  on  which  are  situated  the  extensive  ruins  of 
the  old  Castle  erected  in  the  10th  cent,  and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  the 
Thirty  Years'  War,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  once  powerful  Counts  of  Sayn. 
On  the  slope  of  the  hill  are  the  ruined  castles  of  Stein  and  Rei/enberg.  — 
About  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Sayn,  beyond  the  united  villages  of  ffeimbach  and 
Weiu^  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  abbey  of  Rommendor/i  with  fine  cloisters 
and  chapter-house,  erected  about  1200,  now  the  property  of  the  Duke  of 
Aremberg,  and  used  as   farm-buildings. 

Beyond  a  tunnel  we  have  a  fine  view  of  Sayn,  with  its  ch&teau  and 
ruined  castle  to  the  left.  The  train  now  ascends  the  picturesque  Brex- 
b<$eh'Thal,  over  numerous  viaducts  and  through  several  tunnels.  On  a  hill 
to  the  left,  IVt  hr.  from  Sayn,  is  the  ruined  castle  of  Isenburg^  the  ancient 
seat  of  a  still  existing  family.    A  little  higher  up  is  a  restaurant  (view). 

From  (TVa  M.)  Orenzau  a  branch-line  runs  in  10  min.  to  (I*/*  M.)  H5hr- 
G^enshauaen.  The  station  lies  on  the  boundary  between  the  two  villages, 
in  which  earthenware,  both  useful  and  ornamental,  has  been  manufactured 
for  centuries.  The  Vienna  Exhibition  of  1873  brought  the  ware  of  this 
district  into  modem  notice.  There  are  several  large  factories  near  the 
Station.    The  Ceramic  School^  with  an  interesting  exhibition,  and  ^MUllen* 

ft* 


84    BouUli.  BONN.  HoUls, 

haeK's  Inn  are  both  in  Hobr.  —  We  may  return  to  the  Bbine  on  foot ; 
to  Vallendar  (see  below),  IV4  br. 

101/3  M.  Ransbaeh^  a  Tillage  carrying  on  tbe  manufacture  of  whet- 
stonea.  —  A  steep  incline  leads  bence  to  (ISVs  M.)  SiershahUy  the  junction 
of  tbe  Limbarg  and  Altenkircben  line  (p.  219). 

b0^l2M,BBndoti(Bheini8cherHofy  R.  &B.2V2-<lf/  NaasauerHof), 
a  Bmall  town  wltb  5600  Inbab.,  situated  amidst  orchards  3/4  M.  to 
the  E.  of  the  line,  with  an  interesting  Romanesque  church  and 
several  lunatic  asylums. 

531/2  M.  VaUendar  (Hdtel  Anker y  R.  &  B.  from  2V2)  I>*  2, 
pens,  from  4  •#;,  a  busy  little  town  with  4000  inhab.  who  carry 
on  a  Itrisk  riyer-trafflc,  lies  on  an  arm  of  the  Rhine  opposite  the 
island  of  Niedcrwerth  (p.  77).  On  a  height  above  the  town  stands 
tbe  handsome  Churth,  built  in  1839  on  the  site  of  an  older  church 
said  to  have  been  founded  in  836,  with  a  tower  of  the  15th  cent. ; 
it  contains  some  late-Gothic  church-plate.  —  Weitersburg,  on  the 
hill  V2  ^-  ^0  the  N.  of  Vallendar,  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
Rhine  with  its  islands  and  its  banks  from  Andemach  to  Coblenz. 
About  halfway  up  the  hill  is  a  summer-house  of  the  VaUendar 
Casino,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted. 

A  little  farther  on ,  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained  of  Coblenz, 
the  mouth  of  the  Moselle,  and  the  Emp.  William  Monument.  The 
station  at  (56  M.)  Ehrenbreitstein  (p.  105)  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
precipitous  rock  on  which  the  fortress  is  situated. 


a.f^,(V'^  12.  Bonn. 


Hotela.  On  the  Rhine:  *Botal  Hotsl  (PI.  b;  G,  8),  Coblenser-Str.  11, 
first-class,  with  lift  and  garden,  B.  from  2V«»  D.  3*/2,  pens,  from  7  •#.  — 
HdTBL  Klbt  (PI.  c ;  C,  3),  Coblenzer-Str.  1,  near  the  Alte  Zoll',  R.  2V2-4, 
B.  1,  D.  2^/r9  Jfy  with  garden- restaurant :  BHBiintOK  (PI.  e;  C,  2),  at  the  pier, 
second-class,  with  terrace,  B.  2Vs-4,  B.  1,  D.  S^/s  •#;  Dissmamn,  by  tbe  new 
bridge,  B.  2-3  •#,  well  spoken  of.  —  In  the  Town :  *Gk>u>NEB  Stebn  (PI.  a  \ 
G,  2),  in  the  market-place,  with  ball-rooms  and  restaurant,  flrst-class,  B.  2-6, 
B.  IV4,  D.  2V2,  pens,  from  7  J(;  Sohwan  (PL  g;  B,  2),  Stem-Str.  54,  well 
spoken  of,  B.  2-3,  B.»/4,  D.  IV2-2V2,  pens. 5-6 •#;  Bhbinisohbe  Hop  (PI.  f ;  B,2), 
Stem-Str  57  i  Gentkal,  Wilhelm-Str.  1  (PI.  8,2);  Tbaube,  Meckenbeimer- 
Str.  18  (PI.  A,  2,  3);  Bothb  Kannb,  in  the  market-place,  plain  but  very 
fair.  —  At  the  Railway  Station:  HdrEL-BssTAUBANT  Contimbntal,  Bahnhof- 
Str.  15a,  B.  A  B.  2Vr3V2,  pens.  byt-V/tJ^;  Ebonpbinz;  Hambubobb  Hof, 
B.  &B.  2Vi.3V2-#.  —  In  the  PoppeUdor/er  AUde:  H6t.  duNobd,  Quantius- 
Str.l,  B.IV2-3,  B.l,  D.  from  iV2>  peiis.  from4V2«#;  Evangelisohes  Hospiz. 

Pensions.  Mrt.  Thomae^  CK)eben-Str.  15;  Harlimg^  Hofgarten-Str.  4 
(4-8  UT);  MUUer,  Cobnant-Str.  14  (4-6  Jf)-,  Beenken,  Marien-Str.  1  (5-7  UT); 
Schufft,  Fahrgasse  3  (4-7  «#) ;  Janeeniue,  Herwarth-Str.  12  (4-6  JQ :  Neuerhurg^ 
Lenn^-Sir.8(4-6«#);  8chniewind-Eeue^  HohenzoUem-Str.  30(5-7  UT)^  WeUler^ 
Coblenzer-Str.  2;  atrauberger^  Dechen-Str.  1  {ir&I^Jt). 

Bestaurants.  "Perriny  Wenzelgasse  50 ;  *8ehann^  Post-Str.  11;  Schwarz^ 
Eaiser-Str. ;  £a<la»A««Mr,  Miinster-Platz ;  Viehhd/er^  Lang,  Baumschuler  All^e; 
Goldener  Stern,  Edt.  Kley.  see  above.  —  Oaf^s.  Tmoeie,  at  the  station  •,  Kaieer- 
Cafi,  Kaiser-PIatz.  —  Boer.  KaiterhalU,  Martin-Str. ;  Im  Krug  mm  OrHnen 
£ranu,  Goblenzer-Str.  27;  Zum  HShncken,  Dreieck  3  (PI.  B,  2);  Rheiingoldy 
]Iarkt24;  H6t.  Continental^  Hamburger  Hof  ,  Kronprinz^  see  above,  all  near 


y  Google 


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BiHory.  BONN.  12,  Route,    85 

the  station;  Adtorf^  Milnster-PlatK ;  Schumaeher^  Markt  12.  —  StadihalU 
(open-air  restaurant),  see  p.  89. 

Bathing  Establishment!  on  the  Rhine,  above  the  town,  with  swim- 
ming (40  pf.)  and  warm  baths.  There  are  also  warm  baths  at  the  Bonner 
Badeanstalt,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Banmschnler  All^e. 

Electric  Tramways.  From  the  rail,  station  viH  Post-Str.,  M iinster-PIatz, 
Friedrich-Str.,  and  Brncken-Str.  to  Bettel  (p.  90);  from  the  Markt,  past  the 
station,  t)  Pcjapelsdorf  (p.  89):  to  the  Coln-Thor;  by  the  Coblenzer-Str.  to 
KessetUch  (p.  80).  ~  Steam  Tramway  from  the  Kaiaer-Str.  (cor.  of  the 
Eonigs-Str. ;  PI.  C,  4),  passing  the  terminus  of  the  electric  cars  in  the 
Coblenzer-Str.,  to  Gode»berff  (p.  79)  and  Mehlem  (p.  69),  every  1/2  hr.  on  week- 
days and  every  1/4  hr.  on  Sanoay.  —  Another  steam-tramway  (  Vorgehirgsbalm) 
runs  to  (22  M.)  Cologne  in  21/2  hrs.,  starting  at  the  Viehmarkt  (PL  B,  2). 

Oabs.  Per  drive  in  the  town,  1-2  pers.  70  pf.,  each  additional  pers. 
25  pf.,  box  10  pf. ;  per  »/«  hr.  li/a  *#.  To  PoppeUdorf  75  pf.,  with  two 
horses  1  •#,  each  pers.  beyond  two,  25  pf.  more;  to  Oodesberg  3  or  4  Jl^ 
to  Oat$elsrtihe  (p.  90)  3V»  or  41/2  U(f,  each  pers.  more  than  two,  50  pf. 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  3) ,  Munster-Platz.  —  Telegraph  Office ,  Millheimer' 
Str.  (PI.  B,  2). 

English  Church  Service  in  the  University  Chapel  (p.  87)  at  11  a.m.  and 
(in  summer)  7  p.m. 

Ohief  Attractions.  Miinster  (p.  86);  House  of  Beethoven  (p.  86);  Pro- 
vincial Museum  (p.  88) ;  view  from  the  Alte  Zoll  (p.  87) ;  walk  along  the 
Bhine  and  acrpss  the  new  bridge  (p.  90);  Poppelsdorfer  AU^e  (p.  89). 

Bonn(154ft.),  atown  with  50,700  inhab.,  the  seat  of  a  university 
founded  in  1818  and  attended  by  about  2000  students,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  neai  the  N.  entrance  to  the 
narrower  and  more  picturesque  part  of  the  valley  of  the  river.  It 
has  recentiy  become  a  very  prosperous  place,  and  a  favourite  resi- 
dence of  English  and  other  visitors.  The  pleasant  villas  with  their 
gardens  on  the  Rhine,  situated  on  the  Goblenzer-Strasse  above  the 
town,  the  shady  promenades  of  the  Hof-Garten,  the  Poppelsdorfer 
AU^e,  and  the  imposing  new  bridge,  all  contribute  to  render  the 
town  very  attractive,  while  the  fine  towers  of  the  Miinster  and  the 
Protestant  church  also  enhance  the  general  effect. 

Bonny  the  Bonna  or  Castra  Bonnensia  of  the  Romans,  frequently 
mentioned  by  Tacitus,  and  probably  founded  by  Drusus,  was  one  of  the  first 
Roman  fortresses  on  the  Rhine,  and  the  headquarters  of  several  legions. 
The  BK)man  Castrum^  which  was  very  extensive,  stood  near  the  end  of  the 
modem  Steinweg  or  Heerweg^  at  the  Wichelsho/,  to  the  N.  of  the  town ,  as 
is  proved  by  excavations  made  in  1818  and  by  recent  investigations.  In 
the  middle  ages  Bonn  was  a  place  of  little  importance  until  1267,  when 
the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  transferred  his  residence  and  seat  of  govern- 
ment hither  (comp.  p.  81).  The  German  kings,  Frederick  of  Austria 
(1314)  and  Charles  IV.  (1346),  were  crowned  in  the  Miinster. 

The  Protestant  tendencies  of  Hermann  of  Wied  and  Gebhard  of 
Waldburg ,  Archbishops  of  Cologne  in  the  16th  cent. ,  principally  mani- 
fested by  the  latter  in  his  marriage  with  the  nun  Agnes  of  Mansfeld,  for 
which  he  was  declared  an  apostate  and  banished  from  his  Electorate,  brought 
Bonn  into  great  trouble.  In  the  Dutch  War  of  Independence,  in  the 
Thirty  Years'  War,  and  especially  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  Bonn 
suffered  repeatedly  from  sieges.  That  of  1689  was  conducted  by  Elector 
Frederick  III.  of  Brandenburg  (King  Frederick  I.)  at  the  head  of  the  imper- 
ial and  allied  troops.  Marlborough  and  other  celebrated  generals  took 
part  about  the  same  time  in  the  operations  against  the  town.  The  walls 
were  levelled  in  1717,  in  accordance  with  the  Peace  of  Rastatt.  —  Under 
the  Electors  of  the  18th  cent.  Bonn  was  very  prosperous,  and  one  of 
them  in  1777  founded  an  Academy,  elevated  to  a  University  seven  years 


86    Boutel2.  BONN.  MUnster. 

later  by  Emperor  Joseph  II.  On  7ih  Oct.,  1794,  the  French  marched  into 
the  town,  and  in  1797  the  university  was  closed. 

Under  the  French  Bonn  suffered  mach,  and  its  population  decreased 
from  9500  to  7600,  but  since  its  recovery  by  the  Prussians  in  18U  and  the 
foundation  of  the  Frederick  William  University  it  has  gradually  revived. 
Among  the  eelebritie«  of  the  latter  are  B.  G.  Kiebnhr,  E.  M.  Amdt,  A.  W. 
von  Schlegd,  Argelander,  Welcker,  Bitschl,  Diez,  Simrock,  Lassen, 
and  Dahlmann. 

The  Railway  Station  (PL  B,  3)  was  built  in  1883-86  after  plans 
by  Viereck  and  Unger. 

The  Post-Stiasse  leads  direct  from  the  station  to  the  MOnsteb- 
Platz  (PI.  B,  3) ,  which  is  embellished  with  a  bronze  Statue  of 
Beethoven ,  executed  by  Hanel  of  Dresden  and  inaugurated  in  pre- 
sence of  Queen  Victoria  in  1845. 

The  *Man8ter  (PI.  B,  3),  a  cruciform  church  with  two  choirs, 
four  small  towers,  and  a  lofty  octagonal  principal  tower  over  the  cross- 
ing, Is  an  imposing  and  picturesque  example  of  the  late-Roman- 
esque style.  It  was  formerly  an  archdeanery  of  St.  Oassius  and  St. 
Florentius,  and,  like  many  Rhenish  churches,  traces  its  foundation 
to  Constantino.  The  W.  part  of  the  crypt  and  the  part  of  the 
church  above  it  date  from  the  11th,  the  choir  from  the  middle  of 
the  12th,  and  the  nave,  transept,  and  chief  tower  from  the  13th 
century.  The  building  has  recently  been  carefully  restored. 

The  Intebiob,  which  was  adorned  with  paintings  by  Martin  in  1890-94, 
is  remarkable  for  its  handsome  proportions.  It  contains  a  bronze  statue 
of  St.  Bdena.  the  mother  of  Constantine,  in  a  mannered  style,  cast  at 
Home  in  1706  *,  two  Bcu-Relie/s,  representing  the  Nativity  and  Baptism  of 
tVtlxt  over  the  altars  in  the  nave  and  transept  to  the  right,  well-executed 
Italir  ^orks.  Near  the  chief  portal  is  the  Sareophagut  of  Archbishop 
EngeiDeir  \-r  m  Falkenburg  (d.  1274).  The  old  Crypt  and  the  remains  of 
medieeva!  paintings  (restored;  also  in  the  chapter  hall)  are  intere«ting. 
The  £.  choir  contains  a  jpicture  in  mosaic  from  Oeiges*  designs ;  the  stained- 
g^ass  windows  are  by  Linnemann  and  Geiges. 

The  ancient  Chapter  House  adjoining  the  church  is  now  the  par- 
sonage. The  ^QliQisterSj  with  pillars  possessing  beautiful  capitals, 
date  from  the  12th  cent.  (entr.  from  the  church  or  on  the  E.  sid?, 
adjoining  the  choir).  —  Th^Q  Munstev-Schule^  built  in  the  Romanesque 
style  in  1886-86,  was  designed  by  Lemcke. 

The  busiest  point  of  the  town  is  the  triangular  Market  Place 
(PL  B,  0,  2,  3),  on  which  the  principal  streets  of  the  old  town  con- 
verge. In  the  centre  of  it  rises  a  .FbuntofnCo^jmu*,  erected  by  the 
citizens  in  1777  in  honour  of  Maximilian  Frederick,  Elector  of 
Cologne.  The  Rathhaus^  with  its  lofty  flight  of  steps,  was  completed 
in  1782.  —  The  late-Gothic  Church  of  St,  Remigius  (15th  cent.), 
formerly  the  Minoriten-Kirche^PL  C,  2),  has  cloisters  of  the  beginning 
of  the  14th  century  and  modern  paintings  by  Carl  Miiller  (St.  Anna 
and  the  Virgin,  St.  Joseph  and  the  Holy  Child)  and  other  Diissel- 
dorf  artists.  —  The  Jesuit  Church  (PI.  0,  2),  in  the  Bonngasse,  is 
now  used  by  the  Old  Catholics. 

At  No.  20  Bonngasse  is  the  Bftethyyen  Honaa  (PI.  B,  2),  in 
which  Ludwig  van  Beeihoven  (1770-1827)  was  born.    The  house  is 

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VnwerHty.  BONN.  12.  RouU.    87 

now  fitted  np  as  a  Beetlioyen  Museum  (adm.  1  •#,  on  Wed.  &  Sun. 
50  pf.).  Beethoven's  father  was  a  tenor-singer,  and  his  grandfather 
(a  native  of  Antwerp)  band-master  to  the  Elector. 

The  contents  of  the  maseum  include  numerous  portraits  of  Beethoven, 
his  family,  and  his  contemporaries ;  his  piano,  quartette  instruments,  ear 
trnmpet,  scores,  letters,  etc.  The  garret  in  which  he  was  bom  is  in  the 
back-bxulding  and  has  heen  preserved  unaltered. 

The  Pfiiver^ity  Bnildingi  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  640  yds.  in  length  and 
originally  the  Electoral  Palace,  occupy  the  S.  side  of  the  old  town. 
The  central  portion,  with  its  four  towers,  was  begun  by  Enrico  Zuccali 
in  1697-1703  and  completed  by  Robert  de  Cotte  in  1715-23.  The 
two  principal  towers  were  rebuilt  in  the  original  style  in  1895.  The 
best  view  of  the  buildings  is  obtained  from  the  Hof-Garten.  They  are 
well  fitted  up  and  contain  most  of  the  Lecture  Rooms,  the  Library 
(250,000  vols.,  1350  MSS.),  adorned  with  busts  of  Niebuhr,  Schlegel, 
Arndt,  etc.,  the  Physical,  Ophthalmic,  &n^  Aural  Institutes,  and  the 
rich  Palaeontological  Museum,  particularly  interesting  with  regard 
to  the  Rhineland.  The  Aula  or  hall  ( keys  kept  by  the  head-porter, 
under  the  arcades  to  the  left;  50  pf.)  is  adorned  with  frescoes  em- 
blematical of  the  four  faculties,  executed  by  Cornelius's  pupils, 
Forster,  Gotzenbergei,  and  Hermann  (1824).  The  old  chapel  of  the 
Electoral  Palace  is  now  a  Protestant  place  of  worship  (Church  of 
England  service,  see  p.  85). 

Passing  through  the  Coblenzer-Thor,  which  intersects  the  E.  wing 
of  the  university,  and  has  its  facade  adorned  externally  with  a  figure 
of  the  Archangel  Michael ,  we  reach  the  Coblenzer-Strasse  (p.  88). 
—  Immediately  to  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Alte  ZoU  (PI.  C, 
D,  3),  an  old  bastion  on  the  bank  of  the  Rhine,  commanding  a 
fine  •View  of  the  river  and  its  opposite  bank ,  including  Beuel, 
Bensberg,  Siegburg,  and  th^  Seven  Mts.  In  the  centre  is  a  Mon- 
ument to  the  poet  Ernst  Moritz  Arndt  (1769-1860),  in  bronze.  The 
figure  leans  with  the  left  hand  on  a  trunk  of  oak,  whilst  the  right 
points  towards  the  Rhine.  The  two  French  guns  here  were  captured 
in  the  war  of  1870.  An  inclined  plane  descends  from  the  Alte  Zoll 
to  the  Rhine,  which  is  skirted  by  a  pleasant  promenade  (p.  89). 

Next  to  the  Royal  Hotel,  No.  9  Coblenzer-Str.,  is  the  Civic 
Museum,  in  the  former  Villa  Obemier  (PI.  D,  3 ;  adm.  Sun.  &  Wed., 
11-1,  free;  at  other  times  50 pf.),  containing  a  collection  of  modern 
pictures  and  a  few  sculptures,  bequeathed  to  the  town  by  Prof. 
Obernier  (d.  1882).   Fine  view  of  the  Rhine  and  Seven  Mts. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Coblenzer-  Strasse  lies  the  gof-Garten 
(PI.  C,  3),  with  its  avenues  of  fine  old  trees.  On  the  W.  side  of  the 
garden  rises  the  Protestant  Church  (PI.  C,  3),  a  Gothic  edifice  of 
brick,  erected  by  Dieckhoff  in  1866-71,  with  a  lofty  tower.  — 
The  modern  Gothic  Herz-Jesu-Kirche  (PI.  C,  4),  adjoining  the 
S.W.  comer  of  the  garden,  contains  good  stained  glass,  designed  by 
Steinle. 

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88    Route  12.  BONN.  Provincial  Museum, 

In  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Hof-Garten  rises  the  Academic  MnBenm 
of  Art  (PI.  C,  3),  open  free  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.,^-5,  from 
October  to  April  2-4;  at  other  times,  fee  (custodian  in  the  central 
block,  next  the  Coblenzer-Str.).  The  museum,  founded  in  1826  by 
F.  G.  Welcker  (d.  1868),  the  eminent  antiquarian,  contains  one  of 
the  oldest  and  finest  collections  of  casts  in  Germany  and  a  few 
original  antiquities. 

Among  the  original  Greek  works  are  the  celebrated  marblfe  ^ffermae 
with  heads  of  SophoeleSy  Euripides^  AristopTumet^  huA  Menander.  There  are 
also  terracotta  figurines  from  Asia  Minor,  Greece  (Tanagra),  Sicily,  and  Italy; 
and  over  200  Greek  vases.  —  The  Casts  are  arranged  so  as  to  illustrate  the 
development  of  ancient  sculpture:  Egyptian,  Assyrian,  Greek,  and  Boman. 

In  the  Goblenzer-Strasse,  to  the  left,  is  the  Collegium  Albertinum 
(Erzbiachdfliche  Convict;  PI.  0,  D,  3),  a  large  Gothic  building, 
erected  in  1892  for  the  accommodation  of  Roman  Catholic  students 
at  the  University.  No.  36  is  a  club-house  by  Kayser  &  Von  Gross- 
heim,  and  a  little  farther  on; is  the  Boyal  OymnaMum^  a  Renais- 
sance structure  by  Reinike.  —  No.  75  Zweite  Fahrgasse  (PL  D,  4), 
the  second  cross-street  to  the  left  (as  we  go  to  the  S.),  was  the  resi- 
dence of  thO'  poet  Arndt,  who  died  here  in  1860  (p.  87).  —  The 
Goblenzer-Strasse  is  flanked  with  villas  and  gardens  for  about  1  M. 
beyond  the  Coblenz  Gate  (steam-tramway  to  Godesberg,  see  p.  85). 
Among  them  is  the  Boyal  Villa,  for  royal  princes  studying  in  Bonn. 

In  the  N.  part  of  the  town ,  near  the  Wilhelms-Platz ,  are  the 
StifU'Kirche  (PI.  B,  2),  the  large  Hospital  of  St.  John  (PI.  B,  1),  and 
the  new  University  Clinical  Institutes  (PI.  B,  0,  1),  with  the  Patho- 
logical Institute,  on  an  elevated  site  extending  to  the  bank  of  the 
Rhine.  —  Outside  the  Coln-Thor  are  the  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum, 
the  Hussar  Barracks ^  and  (IV2  M.)  the  New  Cemetery. 

The  •Provincial  Museam  (PI.  A,  3^,  No.  16,  Colmant-Str.,  near 
the  railway-station,  is  a  handsome  building  of  red  sandstone  in  the 
Italian  Renaissance  style,  erected  in  1889-93.  It  contains  an  extensive 
collection  of  Roman  and  mediaeval  stone  monuments,  prehistoric, 
Roman ,  and  Frankish  antiquities ,  a  small  picture-gallery ,  and  a 
few  medisval  works  of  art  (director,  Dr.  Lehner).  The  museum  is 
open  11-1,  free  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.,  on  other  days  60  pf.;  at  other 
times  75  pf.   Visitors  ring.    Guide  40  pf. 

Ground  Floor.  Votive  monuments.  By  the  door  to  the  left,  altars  of 
Jupiter,  Hercules,  and  the  Deee  Matres.  IT  82.  *Monament  of  the  centurion 
M.  (kieiiut^  who  fell  in  the  ^Bellnm  Varianum\  the  only  stone  monument 
extant  relating  to  the  battle  in  the  Teutoburgian  Forest 5  the  breast  of 
the  centurion  is  adorned  with  his  military  orders  and  distinctions;  at  the 
side  are  his  freed  men.  Other  interesting  sepulchral  monuments  (Nos.  3124, 
3962,  etc.).  Stones  with  Christian  inscriptions.  —  Basement.  Belies  of  the 
Muselle  bridge  at  Coblenz,  Roman  capitals,  sarcophagi.  Monuments  with 
representations  of  deities.  U  77.  Large  votive  altar  uf  the  Dea  Victoria, 
with  symbols  of  fishing  and  cattle  -  rearing.  In  the  middle,  large  Mosaic 
Pavement  from  Weingarren.  Sculptures  0731.  iEneas  and  Anchi^es;  Lion 
and  hoar).  —  In  the  Vestibule  and  adjoining  room  are  Romanesque, 
GK>thic,  and  Renaissance  sculptures  from  the  Middle  and  Lower  Rhine.  — 
On  the  Staibgase  to  the  first  floor,  models  of  Roman  weapons. 

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Poppelsdorf.  BONN.  12.  BouU.    89 

TTppar  Floor.  I.  Prbhistobio  Booh  (in  the  middle).  The  central  glasa 
case  contains  the  famous  Ifecmderthal  JShitt^  which  has  been  (literally)  such 
a  bone  of  contention  among  savants.  Objects  of  the  Flint  Period,  found 
in  the  Rhenish  proYinces.  Bronae  hatchets,  knives,  spear-heads;  bronse 
vessels t  armlets  and  collars  of  gold  (ea.  4th  cent.  B.C.).  —  II.  Boom  or 
THB  Roman  Bsonzss.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance :  silver-gilt  dishes ;  sieves, 
goblets,  kettles,  bronze  lamps;  the  wig  and  thunderbolt  of  a  colossal  bronse 
statue  of  Jupiter.  At  the  end  of  the  room,  to  the  right :  Bronze  head  of  the 
£mp.  Oordian  III.  (d.  244);  harness,  shield-bosses,  mountings  of  furniture 
and  vessels.  By  the  side-wall:  chains,  spoons,  knives,  keys,  locks,  handles, 
amulets,  buckles  (including  a  large  military  buckle  inscribed  *numerum 
omnium').  Five  cases  in  the  middle  contain  bronze  figures.  —  in.  Roman 
Tbbraootta  Boom.  On  the  entrance  •  wall ,  frescoes  from  Bonn  and 
Pompeii.  —  The  Cobbidob  contains  Roman  earthenware  of  a  late  period 
(4th  cent.  A.D.).  —  IV.  Glass  Boom  (at  the  back  of  the  building). 
Figures  in  terracotta,  masks ,  ivory  carvings ,  silver  and  gold  ornaments. 

—  The  v.  Boom  contains  objects  found  in  Boman  tombs.  In  the  wall- 
cases  are  early-Boman  cremation-tombs,  arranged  chronologically.  Late 
Roman  tombs  with  skeletons.  In  the  last  floor-case  are  four  fine  bronze 
cauldrons.  —  VI.  Boom  (Prankish  Tombs).   Fine  weapons  and  ornaments. 

—  VIl.  PioTDBB  Gallebt,  with  some  good  Rhenish  and  Netherlandish 
works.  —  VIII.  Hbdiaval  Boom.  Sculptures  of  the  12-13th  cent. ;  iZenois- 
aofMS  Tombstone  of  1571,  from  Aiken.  Old  Rhenish  pottery,  real  and 
imitation.    Works  in  ivory  and  enamel. 

On  the  Ground  Floor ,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  is  the  extensive 
JAbrarp  of  the  Rhenith  Society  of  Antiquarietf  to  the  left  are  a  Collection 
of  ahaii  and  a  Cabinet  of  Coins. 

The  Poppetodorfer  All^e  (PI.  B,  A,  4, 6),  the  principal  promenade 
of  the  town,  a  quadruple  avenue  of  beautiful  horse-chestnuts,  1/2  M. 
long ,  and  flanked  with  handsome  villas  and  gardens ,  leads  from 
the  Kaiser-Platz ,  adjoining  the  Hof-Garten  and  the  University, 
towards  the  W.  to  the  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss.  At  the  end  next  the 
town  it  is  crossed  by  the  railway.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  a  little 
back  from  the  avenue,  is  the  handsome  Observatory  (PI.  B,  4), 
erected  in  1839-46  under  the  superintendence  of  Prof.  Argelander 
Cd.  1875). 

The  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss  (PI.  A,  6),  formerly  a  residence  of 
the  Electors,  erected  In  1715-18  from  the  plans  of  Robert  de  Cotte, 
-with  an  Interesting  central  court  In  a  circular  form,  contains  the 
Natural  History  Collections  of  the  University  (open  9  or  10  to  1, 
30  pf. ;  free  on  Sun.,  11-1,  and  Wed.,  2-4).  The  Botanical  Garden 
adjoining  the  palace  Is  open  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  &  Frld.  from  2  p.m.j 
the  hot-houses  on  Wed.  only. 

Opposite  the  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss  rises  tine  Chemical  Laboratory 
(PI.  A,  5),  In  fifont  of  which  Is  a  statue  of  J.  A.  KekulS  (b.  1829), 
the  chemist.  Behind  it  are  the  Anatomy  Btdlding,  the  Physiological 
Institute,  and  the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Agricultural  Academy 
(350-400  students). 

Above  Poppelsdorf,  »/4  M.  from  the  Schloss,  rises  the  Kreuzberg  (400  ft.), 
a  *Mt.  Calvary'  crowned  with  a  conspicuous  white  church,  ^t  originally 
belonged  to  a  monastery  erected  by  Elector  Ferdinand  of  Bavaria  in  1627, 
and  contains  the  ^Bolp  Steps'  of  Italian  marble  (in  the  chapel  behind  the 
altar),  constructed  about  1750.  These  steps,  28  in  number,  are  an  imitation 
of  the  Scala  Santa  at  the  Lateran,  and  must  be  ascended  only  on  the 
knees.    Beautiful  view  from  the  tower.  r^^^^^T^ 

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90    Boutel2.  BONN.  Rhine  BHdge. 

The  promenade  mentioned  at  p.  87  leads  to  a  ferry  (p.  81),  near  which 
are  the  new  Stadt-Park^  and  the  Stadfhalle,  a  large  haroque  pavilion,  with 
an  open-air  restaurant  (p.  86). 

Keuenich,  a  large  village  with  pleasant  conntry-honses,  ahout  iVs  M. 
from  Bonn,  is  reached  by  a  road  diverging  from  the  middle  of  the  Poppels- 
dorf  Avenue  to  the  left  (PI.  B,  G,  4,  6,  6)  and  leading  past  the  Frederick 
WiUiam  Hospital  and  the  grounds  of  the  Bonn  Sporting  Chtb  (adm.  free ;  open- 
air  restaurant).  On  the  slope  of  the  Vorgebirge  (p.  80),  immediately  above 
it,  rises  the  Rotentmrg,  a  small  chateau  with  pret^  grounds.  —  The  Venmt' 
hmrg^  now  renamed  the  Kaiaer-Wilhelm-Park,  with  a  Monument  to  Emp.  WO- 
Uam  I.  (1897),  is  traversed  by  a  number  of  pleasant  walks ;  the  *Ca»seitrtihe 
(restaurant;  cabs,  see  p.  86)  commands  a  charming  *View  of  Oodesberg,  the 
Seven  Mts.,  etc.  The  paths  extend  in  the  one  direction,  passing  the  Bis- 
marck Tower  (lOmin.  from  the  Oa»seIsruhe),  to  Godesberg  (p.  79),  and  in  the 
other  through  woods  and  the  pretty  Melbthal  (upper  part  also  called  Engel- 
Thai;  rustic  inn)  to  Poppelsdorf. 

The  Old  Cemetery  (PL  A,  2),  1/4  M.  from  the  Stemthor,  is  the 
resting-place  of  many  eminent  men,  chiefly  professors  at  the  uni- 
versity, and  is  also  worthy  of  a  visit  on  accoant  of  its  handsome 
monuments,  including  a  bronze  memorial  of  the  war  of  1870-71. 

By  the  wall  on  the  right,  Monument  of  Niebuhr  (d.  1831),  erected  by 
Fred.  William  IV.  to  his  ^teacher  and  friend';  in  front  a  relief  in  marble 
by  Ranch,  representing  Niebuhr  and  his  wife,  being  a  copy  of  an  ancient 
B^man  tomb-relief  preserved  in  the  hall  of  the  busts  at  the  Vatican.  Farther 
along  the  same  walk,  on  the  right,  the  monuments  of  Emet  von  Behiller 
(d.  1841),  the  second  son,  and  Charlotte  von  Lengefeld  (d.  1826),  widow  of 
the  poet.  Near  the  circular  space  is  the  monument  of  the  brothers  Boie- 
$erie^  the  famous  connoisseurs  of  art  (Helchior  d.  1861,  Sulpice  d.  1864), 
a  relief  in  marble  with  a  head  of  Christ,  by  Rauch.  The  little  (/Aaj^eHn  the 
middle  of  the  cemetery,  a  graceful  late-Romanesque  structure,  built  at  Ra- 
mersdorf  (p.  69)  about  the  year  1200,  was  transferred  thence  to  its  present 
site  in  1847.  It  contains  stained  glass  presented  by  the  Boisser^es.  Near 
the  chapel  are  the  graves  of  Schumann  (d.  1866),  the  composer  (with  a 
'Monument  by  Donndorf,  erected  in  188()),  of  Argelander  (d.  1^5),  the  astro- 
nomer, Ddkimaim  (d.  1860),  the  historian,  Welcker  (d.  1868),  the  archso- 
logist,  and  Karl  Simrock  (d.  1876),  the  poet.  The  monument  of  the  poet 
Amdt  (d.  1860)  is  close  to  the  N.  wall  of  the  cemetery.  By  the  8.  wall  is 
that  of  Baron  Bunten  (d.  1860)  and  bis  wife.  The  Warriors'  Monuwunt 
for  1870-71  was  designed  by  Kfippers. 

The  graceful  *Ehine  Bridge  (PI.  D,  2),  built  in  1896-98  from 
the  designs  of  Bruno  Mohring  and  Prof.  Krohn,  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
beautiful  lu  the  Rhenish  provinces.  It  bestrides  the  river  in  three 
arches,  the  central  of  which  has  a  span  of  615  ft.  (^Niagara  Bridge 
840  ft.),  while  the  total  length  is  1415  ft.  The  rich  plastic  decora- 
tion is  often  of  a  humorous  character  (e.g.  the  so-called  *Brilcken- 
mannchen').  Over  the  flight  of  steps  ascending  to  the  bridge  from 
the  RhlBb  wharf  Is  a  seated  figure  of  Julius  Oasar.  though  this  was 
probably  not  the  spot  where  he  crossed  the  Rhine  (p.  77).  The 
bridge  affords  a  fine  view  of  Bonn  and  the  Seven  Mts.  (toll  6  pf.). 

At  the  end  of  the  bridge,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  lies 
Benel  (Schippers,  with  large  veranda,  near  the  bridge),  a  station  of 
the  railway  on  the  right  bank  from  Cologne  to  £hrenbreitstein 
(p.  81).  The  station  of  the  Broel  Valley  Railway  (p.  66)  Ues  below 
the  bridge. 

From  Beuel  to  the  church  of  SchwarM-Bheistdorf,  see  p.*  68.      j 

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91 


13.  The  Seven  Hounteilis  (Skhengehirge), 


One  day  suffices  to  explore  the  most  interesting  points  in  this  district, 
unless  the  visit  be  for  geological  purposes.  KSnigmointer  (a  station  on  the 
Bight  Rhenish  railway,  and  connected  through  Mehlem,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  with  the  Left  Rhenish  Railway;  also  a  steamboat -station  and  a 
station  on  the  Zahnradbahn  to  the  top  of  the  Drachenfels  and  the  Peters- 
"bttfd  is  the  usual  starting  -  point,  but  Rhifndor/,  Honne/y  or  Dollendor/y 
stauons  on  the  Right  Rhenish  line,  may  in  some  cases  be  more  convenient. 
The  VertchlfnerungMverein  fUr  da»  Stebengebirge^  a  society  founded  in  1873, 
with  its  headquarters  at  Bonn,  has  done  much  towards  facilitating  access  to 
the  fine  scenery  of  this  district  by  the  construction  ot  paths  and  the  erection 
of  finger-posts  and  benches. 

Walkers  from  Kifnigtwinter  to  the  Drachenfelt  take  "A  br. ;  thence  to 
the  Qreat  Oelberg  IV4  hr. ,  and  to  HeUterbach  IV4  hr.  more ;  back  to  Kdnigs- 
tointer  in  »/4  hr.,  or  to  Nieder-Dollendorf  in  V«  l^*"*  —  From  H<mnef  to 
the  LHwenbwrg  lv4  hr. ;  thence  to  the  Oreat  Oelberg  IV4  hr.,  and  vi&  HeUter- 
bach  to  Kdnigswinter  as  above.  In  this  case  the  Drachenfels  is  ascended 
last,  from  Eonigswinter.  —  From  Nieder-Dollendorf  the  excursion  is  the 
same  as  the  first-mentioned,  but  in  the  reverse  direction. 

Oarriages,  Horses,  and  Donkeys  at  Mnigswinter,  see  p.  92 ;  at  Honne/y 
see  p.  82.  The  whole  tour  from  K0nig$winter  to  HeUterbaeh  and  the  Mar^ 
garethenhof  (hence  on  foot  to  the  Oelberg,  Vs  br.),  and  thence  either 
to  the  Drachenfelt  or  by  the  Lffwenburger  Hof  to  Honnef  may  now  be  ac- 
complished by  carriage. 

The  heights  given  in  the  following  description  are  calculated  from  the 
level  of  the  sea;  the  approximate  height  above  the  Rhine  is  obtained  by 
subtracting  160  ft.  Geologists  who  understand  German  should  purchase 
Dr.  von  Deeften's  ^Oengnostischer  Filhrer  in  das  Siebengebirge'  (7  UK),  or 
Lcupeifrei  ^Siebengeblrge  am  Rhein*  (1901 ;  9  UK),  both  with  maps,  published 
by  Ouhen  at  Bonn. 

The  *SeveiL  Mountains,  wMcli  form  the  N.W.  termination  of  the 
Westerwald  district,  extend  3  M.  inland  from  the  Rhine,  and  from 
N.  to  S.  about  9  M.,  Konigswinter  being  the  central  point  on  the  W. 
They  consist  of  a  group  of  peaks,  cones,  and  long,  rounded  ridges, 
some  of  which  are  covered  with  forest  and  luxuriant  herbage.  They  are 
all  of  volcanic  character  and  consist  partly  of  trachyte  (DrachenfelSf 
WoUceriburg,  Lohrbergjy  and  partly  of  basalt ,  a  more  recent  forma- 
tion (Oelberg^  Nonnenstrombergj  Petersberg),  while  the  Loweriburg 
Is  of  dolerite.  These  seven  peaks,  from  which  the  mountains  derive 
their  name,  are  seen  simultaneously  only  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Cologne ;  as  Bonn  is  approached,  the  L5wenburg  is  hidden  by 
the  Nonnenstromberg.  Besides  these  summits  there  are  many 
others,  such  as  the  conical  Hemmerichj  of  trachyte,  which  overtops 
the  lower  mountains  of  the  S.  side,  and  the  Rosenau  and  Stenzel- 
herg,  which  adjoin  the  Nonnenstromberg  on  the  E.  and  N.E.  Q^S^Af, 

Konigswinter*  —  Hotels.  On  the  Rhine:  •Beblinkb  Hop,  R.  3-5,  B.  1,  l^^ao 
D.  3,  pensT  from  7  J#,  *EuaoPAi8CHKB  Hof,  R.  from  21/2,  D.  3,  pens.  6-7  UK,  '  ^ 
both  opposite  the  pier,  with  garden-terraces;  '^Monopol-Metropolb,  a  little 
farther  down,  with  lift,  R.  2-10,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens,  from  6  Jt;  ^DtssSLkSiSSS^^ 
gaJK,  still  lower  down,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  6-8 UK;  *H6tel  Mattbbn- 
^ATiONAL,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  Ha  M.  from  the  pier,  with  garden- 
terrace,  R.  2>/2-7,  B.  11/4,  D.  3-4.  pens.  7  12  JK .  Rhkinischkr  Hop,  R.  &  B.  2  UK, 
Gebmania,  both  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  well  spoken  of.  —  In 
(he  Main  Street:  Hot.  Ribffbl;  Hollandischbb  Hop,  by  the  church, 
R.  &  B.  2  3UK;  Teaubb  :  Bogkhallb  ;  WbstfAlischbb  Elop;  Lomuerzheih, 
R.  A  B.  2-2V2,  pens.  4  UK.  —  Near  (he  Station:  Centbal,  unpretending;  Vic- 


92    Route  13,  k6nIGSW1NTER.  The  Seven 

TOBiA.  —  For  a  stay  of  some  time:  HdTBL  Maodalenbnbop,  upstream,  to 
the  left  of  the  highroad,  with  terrace  and  grove,  pens,  from  41/2  Jf-  — 
Pensions:  Villa  Bohnen,  next  door  to  the  Dusseldorfer  Hof,  very  fair  (4-6  Jt)  ^ 
Rheineck;  Kirch  (B.  A  B.  only). 

Wine.  *Baiinghausen^  on  the  Rhine,  with  a  large  garden-hall,  D.  (12-3 
p.m.)  from  i^/tJtf  Wimer-Verein  or  Vintager*'  Society  (p.  98),  in  the  Kirch- 
8tr.,  near  the  Draohenfels  railway,  Canno^  Bhein-AU^e  10,  with  garden 
on  the  Bbine.  —  Beer  at  the  Europdi$che  Hof^  the  Monopoly  the  Uiissel- 
dorfer  Ho/^  and  at  most  of  the  smaller  hotels  (see  above).  —  Caf6  and  Oon> 
fectioner:  Mertens,  in  the  main  street,  below  the  Roman  Catholic  church. 

Zahnradbohnen,  or  Rack  and  Pinion  Bailtoajft^  to  the  top  of  the  Drachen- 
felt  (p.  93)  and  of  the  Fetertberg  (p.  96).  In  summer  there  are  18  trains 
daily,  with  accommodation  for  50-lU)  passengers  \  fare  to  the  top  1  Jfy  down 
50  pf.  The  ascent  takes  10-12  minutes.  The  starting-point  of  the  Drachen- 
fels  line  is  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  little  more  than  1/4  M  from  the  station 
of  the  Bhenish  railway  or  the  steamboat -quay;  the  starting-point  of  the 
Petersberg  line  is  V2  ^-  ^0°^  ^^^  railway-station,  and  nearly  1  M.  from 
the  pier. 

Oarriagea.  From  the  station  to  the  town  or  to  the  Petersberg  Station, 
for  1-2  pers.,  one-horse  60,  two-horse  70  pf. ;  from  the  town  to  the  Peters- 
berg Station,  80  pf.,  1  j$;  each  pers.  additional  20  pf.,  hand-bag  10  pf., 
trunk  20  pf .  —  Drives  in  the  environs,  fares  for  1-4  pers.  (10  per  cent  extra 
for  each  pers.  additional):  to  the  Draehen/els  4  or  oVz  Jf^  there  and  back 
within  3  hrs.,  5»/2  or  V/tJf;  Margarethenhof  iy^  or  BJf;  Eeisterbaeh  3V«  or 
6  Jf^  there  ana  back  5  or  V/tJtf  Ldtoenhurg  via  Hargarethenhof  6  or 
71/2  Jiy  there  and  back  (within  4  hrs.)  7»/«  or  10  UT,  via  Heisterbach  7Va 
or  10,  there  and  back  (SVa  hrs.)  8  or  12  *#  ;  Peteraiberg  via  Heisterbach  6  or 
8  Jl^  the  same,  returning  vii  Hargarethenhof  (dVz  l^rs.),  9  or  12  Ui^;  Honnef 
2  or  2V2  Ui^;*  drive  through  the  Seven  Mts.  vi&  Heisterbach,  Petersberg, 
Hargarethenhof,  L5wenburg,  and  Honnef  (8  hrs.).  with  two  horses,  16  jH. 

Motor  Launch  to  Bhondorf,  1-4  pers.  2Vs  jU  (each  extra  pers.  20  pf.), 
to  Bolandseck  4  UV  (30  pf.),  to  Godesberg  2Vs  •#  C^O  pf.),  to  Bonn  6  Jt 
(90  pf.);  per  hour  4  Jl^  each  >/«  ^-  i^^ore  1  Jl. 

Omnibus  (starting  at  the  rail.  Stat,  and  the  Bhine)  15-18  times  daily 
to  Rhdndor/  (p.  82;  20  pf.)  and  Honnef  (p.  82;  30  pf.). 

Koniaswinter  (165  ft.),  a  thriving  little  modern  town  with  3800 
inhah.,  is  the  Best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  Seven  Moun- 
tains, at  the  foot  of  which  it  lies,  and  is  consequently  thronged  hy 
tourists  in  summer.  It  possesses  extensive  stone-cutting  yards,  which 
prepared  much  of  the  stone  used  in  huilding  Cologne  Cathedral. 
The  railway-station  lies  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town ,  and  beyond 

its  precincts.  A  pleasant  wulk  g^tftnHq  along  tha  hank  of  ^]ifl  Rhine. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  are  a  War  Monument  and  a  monument 
to  Wolfgang  MuUer  of  Konigswinter  (1816-73),  the  Rhenish  poet, 
by  Lessing. 

AsoBNT  OP  THE  Dbachbnfbls  (carriages  in  waiting  at  the  sta- 
tion). The  road  crosses  the  railway  and  coincides  for  some  dis- 
tance with  that  to  the  Oelberg  (p.  95);  it  then  tuins  to  .thfi.  right, 
past  several  handsome  villas ,  and  skirts  the  Hirschherg  (p.  94)  to 
the  aiaddle  between  it  and  the  Wolkenburg,  where  the  road  to  the 
Oelberg  (p.  95)  diverges  to  the  left.  It  then  passes  a  monument 
erected  in  1892  to  H.  von  Dechen  (d.  1889),  the  eminent  geologist  and 
explorer  of  the  Seven  Mts.  (p.  91),  and  ascends  in  a  curve  to  the 
terrace.  —  Walkers  turn  to  the  left  on  leaving  the  railway-station 
(finger-post),  follow  the  direction  of  the  railway,  and  cross  the  road ; 

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Mountains,  DBAOHENFELS.  13,  RouU.     93 

after  5  min.  the  path  joins  that  from  the  Rhine  and  reaches  the 
station  of  the  mountain-railway  (see  below).  —  Other  pleasant  paths 
ascend  by  the  Saurenberg  or  through  the  pretty  NachtigalUn^Thaly 
quitting  the  Drachenfels  road  where  it  turns  to  the  left,  200  paces 
beyond  the  railway.  The  way  through  the  Nachtigallen-Thal  is  that 
to  the  left;  after  5  min.  it  crosses  a  bridge  to  the  right.  At  the 
Kuckstein  (see  below),  both  unite  with  the  bridle-path. 

The  traveller  arriving  by  Steamboat  passes  between  the  two 
chief  hotels  and  to  the  left  of  the  Church  and  District  Court,  crosses 
the  railway,  and  soon  reaches  the  station  of  the  Zahnradbahn,  or 
rack-and-plnion  railway.  Walkers  follow  the  bridle-path  on  the  side 
of  the  rock  next  to  the  Rhine,  leading  in  ^/^  hr.,  partly  through 
wood,  to  the  terrace  near  the  top.  Several  cabarets  by  the  wayside : 
(10  min.)  Zur  Sehonen  Auasicht,  on  the  right,  and  Zur  Drachen- 
burg,  on  the  left ;  farther  on  Zum  Kuckstein  (620  ft.),  a  little  below 
which  our  path  is  joined  by  that  over  the  Saurenberg,  and  a  little 
above  by  that  through  the  Nachtigallen-Thal  (see  above;  recom- 
mended to  those  returning  to  the  railway-station).  The  path  then 
skirts  the  rack-and-pinion  railway,  passes  the  handsome  Qothic 
chateau  of  *Drachenbyira,  the  property  of  Herr  Bottinger,  built  in 
1883  by  Tiishaus  and  Abbema,  and  elaborately  decorated  within 
with  paintings  and  other  works  of  art,  and  ascends  the  wooded  W. 
slope  of  the  hill  to  the  terrace  (8/4  hr.  from  KSnigswinter). 

The  easiest  mode  of  ascending  the  Drachenfels,  however,  is  now 
afforded  by  the  Racic  and  Pinion  Ra^^.^tat  (fares,  see  p,  92),  which 
ascends  the  hill  in  an  almost  straight  line  and  approaches  the  top, 
like  the  road,  on  the  side  farthest  from  the  Rhine.  Its  length  is 
1662  yds.  and  its  rise  740  ft. ;  the  steepest  gradient  is  1 : 6.  The 
viaduct  halfway  up  affords  a  good  view  of  the  Drachenburg. 

The  Terrace  (970  ft.;  ♦Hotel,  R.  from  3,  B.  1,  D.  3  ulf ;  post  and 
telegraph  office ;  concert  on  Wed.  afternoon),  a  levelled  rocky  pla- 
teau about  100  ft.  below  the  summit,  is  embellished  with  a  Gothic 
Obelisk  commemorating  the  patriotic  spirit  of  the  Rhinelanders  in 
the  years  .1813-15,  designed  by  Zwimer  and  erected  in  1857. 
From  the  veranda  of  the  inn  a  series  of  steps  descends  to  the  bridle- 
path to  Rhondorf  (p.  82). 

The  castle  of  Drachenfels  f  1 066  ft.),  or  'dragon's  rock',  4-5  min. 
above  the  terrace,  was  erected  by  Arnold,  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  at 
the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent. ,  bestowed  by  him  on  the  Cassius 
Monastery  at  Bonn  in  1149,  and  held  as  a  flef  from  the  latter  by  the 
counts  of  the  castle.  Henry,  Count  of  Drachenfels  (d.  1348),  fur- 
nished the  chapter  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne  with  the  stone  for  its 
construction  from  a  quarry  which  still  bears  the  name  of  Dcymbruch, 
or  cathedral  quarry.  In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  the  half-ruined  castle 
was  occupied  by  the  Swedes ,  but  was  besieged  and  taken  from 
them  by  Duke  Ferdinand  of  Bavaria,  Elector  of  Cologne,  who 
completed  its  destructioi^.  — -  A  Cavtm  among  the  vineyards,  about 


94    BouUlS,  HIRSOHBERG.  The  Seven 

halfway  up  the  hill ,  is  said  once  to  have  housed  the  dragon  y  slain 
by  Siegfried,  the  hero  from  the  Low  Countries,  who,  having  bathed 
himself  in  its  blood,  became  invulnerable  (the  wine  grown  here  is 
known  as  'Drachenblut*,  or  dragon^s  blood). 

*yiew.  The  summit  commands  one  of  the  noblest  prospects  on  the 
Rhine;  to  the  E.  are  seen  several  of  the  seven  peaks,  S.E.  the  basaltic 
heights  behind  Honnef,  among  them  the  Minderberg  (p.  73),  and  the  Hem- 
merich  (p.  91),  sloping  down  to  the  Rhine.  Immediately  below  lie  Rhon- 
dorf,  Honnef,  Rhcdnbreitbach,  Unkel,  and  Erpel ;  on  the  left  bank  Remagen 
and  the  Gothic  church  on  the  Apollinarisbere,  in  the  background  the  heights 
of  the  Eifel  with  the  ruin  of  Olbriick  (p.  104),  in  the  vicinity  Oberwinter, 
the  islands  of  Grafenwerth  and  Nonnenwerth,  and  the  arched  ruin  of  Ro- 
landseck.  Farther  to  the  right  the  Kreusberg,  Bonn,  and  even  Oologne 
are  visible.  *The  castled  crag  of  Drachenfels 

Frowns  o'er  the  wide  and  winding  Rhine, 
Whose  breast  of  waters  broadly  swells 
Between  the  banks  which  bear  the  vine} 
And  hills  all  rich  with  blossomed  trees. 
And  fields  which  promise  corn  and  wine 
And  scattered  cities  crowning  these. 
Whose  far  white  walls  along  them  shine, 
Have  strew'd  a  scene  which  I  should  see 
With  double  joy  wert  thou  with  me/ 

Byron  (^Ghilde  Harold'). 

The  trachyte  hill  of  the  Wolkenburg  (1086  ffrr>,  to  the  E.  of 
the  Drachenfels,  was  also  once  crowned  by  a  stronghold,  which  has 
long  since  been  demolished  to  make  way  for  the  extensive  quarries 
which  have  been  worked  here  for  centuries. 

The  Hirscliberg(836ft.),  crowned  with  a  belvedere,  commands 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Rhine  &nd  the  valley  enclosed  by  the  Seven 
Mts.  The  footpath  diverges  from  the  road  in  the  saddle  between 
the  Hirschberg  and  the  Wolkenburg,  about  200  paces  before  the 
point  where  the  Drachenfels  and  OElberg  roads  separate,  and  reaches 
the  summit  in  Y4  hour. 

F&OM  THB  Dbaohbnfbls  TO  THB  Gbbat  (Elbbbo  (1^/4  hr.).  The 
carriage-road,  which  affords  a  series  of  charming  views,  diverges 
from  the  Drachenfels  road  in  the  saddle  between  the  Wolken- 
burg and  the  Hirschberg  (^595  ft. ;  see  p.  92),  about  1  M.  from  the 
Drachenfels,  and  then  leads  in  windings  along  the  Schallerherg , 
Oeisberg^  and  Lohrberg  to  the  saddle  (1095  ft.)  between  the  last 
hill  and  the  top  of  the  (Elberg,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  roads 
from  Konigs winter  (1 V2  ^^'i  ascent  2  hrs.),  from  Heisterbach  (p.  95), 
and  from  the  Lowenburg  (p.  96).  On  the  saddle  are  two  good  inns, 
the  Margarethenhof  sjid  the  *H6tel^  Restaurant  Sophienhof  (D.  2, 
pens.  4-5V2  •^)-  If  l^^th  are  crowded,  the  traveller  may  follow  the 
road  to  the  E.  to  (1  M.)  Ittenbachj  where  accommodation  may  be 
found  at  the  clean  little  inn  of  Blesgen,  adjoining  the  church. 

At  the  cross-roads  at  the  Margarethenhof  are  a  cross  with  a  re- 
lief of  St.  Margaretha  and  the  dragon  (1641)  and  a  flnger-post  show- 
ing the  roads  to  the  (Elberg,  Petersberg,  and  Heisterbach.  About 
100  paces  farther  on  is  another  guide-post,  Indicating  a  footpath  to 


Mountains.  HEISTERBAGH.  13,  Route,    95 

the  top  of  the  (Elberg.  This  path  follows  the  road,  which  leads  to 
the  basalt  quarries  (see  below),  for  some  distance,  and  then  diyerges 
again  to  the  left.   The  top  of  the  CElberg  is  reached  in  V2  b'* 

The  *Great  lElberg  (1520  ft. ;  Restauranty  plain)  is  a  basaltic 
cone  which  has  been  upheaved  through  the  trachyte.  The  prospect 
from  the  summit  is  the  most  extensive  on  the  lower  Rhine ;  the  pic- 
turesque foreground  differs  in  many  respects  from  that  seen  from  the 
Drachenfels.  The  whole  wooded  tract  of  the  Seven  Mts.  lies  like  a 
map  before  the  spectator;  the  Rhine  glitters  between  the  valleys 
which  intersect  its  banks,  and  its  course  may  be  traced  as  far  as 
Cologne;  in  the  distance  to  the  S.  the  Taunus,  and  N.E.  the 
heights'  near  Dusseldorf.  The  basalt  quarries  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Oelberg  are  now  the  most  important  in  the  Seven  Mountains,  and 
are  interesting  for  the  curious  displacement  of  the  basaltic  columns, 
which  are  visible  to  a  height  of  100  ft. 

From  the  Gsbat  (Elbbbo  to  Hbiste&bach  (1  hi.).  In  descend- 
ing, a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  top,  we  reach  a  finger-post  on  the 
path  by  which  we  ascended,  indicating  the  way  to  Kdnigswinter 
and  Heisterbach.  After  10  min.  this  path  joins  the  road  from  the 
Margarethenhof  to  Heisterbach  (near  the  kilometre-stone  2.7).  From 
this  road  diverge,  farther  on,  a  footpath  to  Kdnigswinter,  a  road 

*  (below  kilometre-stone  1.3)  to  the  new  hotel  on  the  Roaenau 
(1060  ft.l  and  a  road  (above  kilomStre-stone  1)  to  the  Nonnenstrom- 
herg  (1105  ft.)  and  the  (1  M.)  Peter sherg  (p.  96).  To  the  right  is 
the  Sienzelhtrg  (945  ft.),  with  extensive  trachyte  quarries.  The 
trains  of  the  HeiateTbach  Valley  Steam  Tramway  (p.  81)  stop  when 
required  at  the  point  where  the  road  (short-cut  for  walkers)  reaches 
the  Heisterbach  Valley. 

The  venerable  Cistercian  Abbey  of  Heisterbach  (475  ft.)  is  one 

*  of  the  most  frequently  visited  points  in  the  Seven  Mountains. 
The  gate  still  bears  the  arms  of  the  abbey,  a  Heister  (young  beech) 
and  a  Back  (brook) ;  at  the  side  stand  St.  Benedict  and  St.  Bernard 
as  guardians.  Of  the  magnificent  abbey-church,  erected  in  the  tran- 
sition-style in  1202-37,  the  end  of  the  choir,  with  its  slender  ba- 
saltic columns,  is  alone  extant,  forming  a  singularly  picturesque  ruin. 
The  abbey  itself  was  sold  and  almost  entirely  removed  in  the  year 
1809.  Some  of  the  finest  old  German  pictures  in  the  Pinakothek  at 
Munich  were  brought  from  Heisterbach.  In  1897  a  memorial  was 
erected  to  the  monkish  author,  Cssarius  von  Heisterbach  (ca.  1170- 
1240).  The  abbey-lands  now  belong  to  Count  zur  Lippe-Biesterfeld, 
Regent  of  Lippe-Detmold  (H6tel-Restaurant,  very  fair).  —  The 
road  passing  Heisterbach  terminates  at  (I72M.)  DoMcndor/' (railway 
station,  p.  81). 

Fbom  HEiSTBaBACH  TO  THE  Petebsbebo  0/t  hr.).  Ontside  the  gate  we 
follow  the  road  ascending  to  the  right  till  beyond  the  kilometre-stone  3,3, 
where  the  tramway  crosses  the  road,  and  then  ascend  the  footpath  to  the 
right  (several  finger-posts). 

Fbom  Heistebbach  to  Konioswintbb.    A  well^odden  path 

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96    KouU13.  PETEBSBERG. 

leads  from  the  gate  of  the  abbey  to  the  left,  and  then  along  the  slope 
of  the  Petersberg,  passing  below  the  wire-rope  railway  which  connects 
the  basalt  quarries  on  the  Petersberg  with  the  road  near  DoUendorf, 
through  wood  and  finally  vineyards ,  and  reaches  Konigswinter  in 
S/4  hr.  [In  the  reverse  direction,  we  follow  the  Drachenfels  road 
to  a  point  40  paces  beyond  the  railway-crossing,  where  a  finger-post 
on  the  left  indicates  the  way  to  Heisterbach.] 

From  KdNiaswiNTSB  to  thb  Pete&sbebo.  The  starting-point 
of  the  Zahnradbahn  (rack-and-pinion  railway,  p.  92)  is  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  about  ^2  M.  from  the  Right  Rheniah  rail,  station  (follow 
the  railway  to  the  left,  cross  it  to  the  left  by  a  broad  road,  farther 
on  to  the  left  again ;  comp.  the  Map).  The  line  is  1330  yds.  in 
length  and  the  average  gradient  is  1 : 5  (maximum  1 : 4).  It  ascends 
at  first  through  vineyards,  and  farther  up  is  driven  through  the  rocks. 

The  top  of  the  *Peter8berg  (1095  ft.),  on  which  there  are  a 
Chapel  and  a  Hotel  ^  BeOaurant  (R.  2V2-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  3,  pens. 
7-12  Jf\  affords,  from  the  different  points  which  may  be  reached 
by  a  path  skirting  the  margin  of  the  extensive  plateau,  various 
splendid  views  of  the  Rhine,  the  valley  surrounded  by  the  Drachen- 
fels, Wolkenburg,  Lohrberg,  and  Oelberg,  and  to  the  N.  of  the  Lower 
Rhenish  plain  with  Cologne  Cathedral  and  of  the  Bergisch  hills. 

On  the  way  to  Ober-Dollendorf,  near  the  upper  end  of  the  Zahnrad- 
bahn, and  at  varions  other  points,  are  remains  ot  an  early-German  stone- 
wall that  surrounded  the  summit  of  the  Petersberg. 

From  the  playground  to  the  S.E.  of  the  restaurant  a  finger-post  shows 
the  way  to  Heisterbaeh,  Lowenbui^,  Konigswinter,  and  Draehenfels.  The 
path  crosses  the  railway  and  then  divides  into  several  branches  (finger- 
posts). 

The  LfiwBNBuaa  is  usually  ascended  from  Honnef  or  Rhondorf. 
From  Honnef  there  are  two  roads :  1.  the  new  road  vi&  Hohen-Honnef 
(p.  82),  skirting  the  Fuchshardt  and  reaching  the  summit  from  the 
W. ;  2.  the  older,  and  much  longer,  road  through  the  wooded  Schmel-- 
ter-Thal  or  Asbacher-Thaly  then  to  the  left  through  the  Einsiedler- 
Thai  to  the  Lowenburger  Hof  in  2  hrs.  —  Walkers  (l*/2  hr.)  may 
follow  the  footpath  on  the  N.  W.  slope  of  the  Fuchshardt  (see  above), 
finally  passing  near  the  Augusthohe,  or  they  may  ascend  from  Rom^ 
meradorfy  along  the  brook.  At  the  second  bench  on  the  latter  route 
the  shorter  way  leads  to  the  right ;  that  to  the  left  skirts  the  Brei- 
berg  (p.  97;  finger-posts). 

Fbom  RhOndobp  (p.  82 ;  cross  the  bridge  to  the  right  of  the  rail- 
way-station, then  turn  to  the  left  through  the  village)  a  broad 
bridle-path  ascends  through  the  narrow  valley  flanked  on  the  N.  by 
the  heights  of  the  Wolkenburg,  the  Schallerherg  (1006  ft.),  and 
Oeisberg  (1080  ft.),  and  on  the  S.  by  the  broad  Breiberg  (p.  97), 
to  the  (174  hr.)  Lowenburger  Hof  (1180ft.),  a  forester's  house  with 
a  restaurant  (D.  2  uff ;  also  pension),  whence  the  top  is  attained  after 
a  somewhat  steep  ascent  of  15-20  minutes. 

The  Ldwenburg  (1505  ft.),  a  wooded  peak  of  dolerite,  is  crown- 

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y  Google 


y  Google 


LANDSKRON.  14,  RouU,    97 

ed  with  a  view-tower,  marking  the  site  of  an  ancient  castle,  the 
outer  walls  of  which  are  still  extant. 

For  the  descent  the  beantlfol  shady  path  may  be  recommended, 
which  leads  from  the  Lowenbnrger  Hof  to  the  (Y2  lir.)  Qroase  Brei- 
berg  (1040  ft. ;  •View).  Thence  in  V2  ^'  *<>  ^^^  loft  *<>  Sonnef,  to 
the  right  to  Rhondorf, 

From  the  L5w£nbubo  to  the  Gbeat  (Elbbbg.  From  the 
Lowenburger  Hof  a  road,  forming  the  continuation  of  the  road  from 
Honnef,  leads  towards  the  N.  along  the  £.  slope  of  the  Lohrberg 
(1440  ft.).  After  10  min.  a  finger-post  on  the  left  indicates  the  path 
to  the  summit  of  the  Lohrberg,  which  may  be  reached  in  10  min. 
(tower  with  view).  The  road  reaches  the  Margarethenhof  (comp. 
p.  94)  in  25  min.  more. 

14.  VaUeyoftheAhr. 

Comp.  Mapi^  pp*  10^  97.  . 
The  Ahr  rises  at  Blankenheifn  (p.  208)  in  the  Eifel,  traverses  a  wind* 
ing,  picturesque,  and  generally  narrow  valley,  54  M.  long,  and  falls  into 
the  Rhine  below  Sinzig.  The  river  is  always  rapid  and  often  overflows 
its  banks  in  rainy  weather.  —  The  full-flavoured,  dark -red  wines  pro- 
duced by  the  vineyards  of  the  Ahr  (the  best  are  those  of  Walportheim^  Ahr- 
weileVy  and  Bodendorf)^  are  still  termed  ^AhrbleieherVj  although  the  name 
signifies  *pale  red  wine  of  the  Ahr\  It  was  formerly  customary,  after 
pressing  the  grapes,  to  draw  off  the  juice  immediately,  before  fermentation 
set  in.  The  wine  thus  prepared  was  of  a  pink  colour.  The  French  plan  of 
allowing  fermentation  to  begin  before  the  separation  of  the  juice  from  the 
skins  has  however  long  been  in  vogue,  and  the  dark-red  colour  is  the  result. 

Fbom  Rbmaobn  to  Adbnau,  26  M.,  railway  in  about  2^/4  hrs. 
(fares  3  ulf  40,  2  ulf  60,  1  ulf  70  pf.). 

Bemagerij  see  p.  71.  —  The  train  describes  a  circuit  round  the 
Victoria-Berg  and  enters  the  fruitful  district  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ahr, 
known  as  the  'Goldene  MeiV.  —  3  M.  Bodendorf  (Hdtel-Bestaurant 
Cholin),  a  village  about  11/2  M.  from  Sinzig  (p.  79),  the  church  of 
which  is  descried  to  the  left.  Farther  on  we  obtain  a  view  to  the 
left  of  the  wooded  hills  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  Landskron  (910  ft.),  a  lofty  basaltic 
hill,  which  may  be  ascended  in  V2  ^^'  either  from  Lohrsdorf  (at  its 
S.E.  base,  I1/2  M.  from  Bodendorf)  or  from  Heppingen  (to  the  W., 
1^2  M.  from  Neuenahr).   Extensive  view. 

The  castle  on  the  summit  is  said  to  have  been  founded  in  1205  by 
£mp.  Philip  of  Hohenstaufen,  when  on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Aix-la- 
Chapelle.  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  in  check  the  hostile  Archbishop 
Bruno  01  Cologne.  It  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1677  and  again  in 
1682  by  Elector  William  of  Cologne.  The  Chapel  (closed)  on  the  8.  W.  side 
of  the  summit  has  been  spared^  a  basaltic  grotto  serves  as  a  sacristy. 
Near  it  is  a  quantity  of  massive  basalt,  overlying  columnar  basalt. 

At  the  W.  base  of  the  Landskron  are  the  Heppinget'  and  the 
Landshroner-MineralquelU J  two  refreshing  springs,  impregnated 
with  carbonic  acid  gas.  The  ApollinariBbrimneiL,  a  similar  spring, 
situated  a  little  farther  up  the  valley,  was  discovered  in  1861,  and 

Baedbkbb's  Rhine.   15th  Edit.  •j'iOOglC 


98    Route  14.  NEUENAHB.  Ahr  Valley, 

is  exploited  by  the  Englisli  Apollinaris  Company  Limited^  wMch  has 
made  Apollinaris  Water  familiar  throughout  the  world. 

5  M.  Eeimersheim  (Mohren,  at  the  station),  with  a  small,  but 
handsome  church  which,  with  its  octagonal  tower  over  the  centre  of 
the  transept,  closely  resembles  that  of  Sinzig.  Choir  richly  adorned. 
Stained  glass  of  the  early-Gothic  period.  —  The  bare  patches  in  the 
vineyards  attest  the  ravages  of  the  phylloxera,  which  here  made  its 
first  appearance  in  the  Rhenish  wine  district. 

6^4  M.  Neaenahr.  —  Hotels  (all  well  spoken  of).  On  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ahr:  'Cdb-HStbl,  in  immediate  connection  with  the  Bath 
Establishment  (see  below),  R.  S-iVa,  B.  iV4,  D.  3,  board  6V4  Jt;  *Gk.  Hot. 
Floka,  E.  21/2-31/2,  B.  1,  D.  31/2,  pens.  7-10  J(;  Victokia;  Concoedia, 
R.  2V2-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pena.  51/2-8  UT;  Hbimbs,  R.  2i/a-6,  B.  1,  D.  21/2.  pens, 
from  51/2  J(;  Eaisebhof,  R.  2-3,  B.  i,  D.  21/2,  pens,  b^/z^  Jl ;  Mabiahilf, 
for  Roman  Catholics,  pens.  3-6.^;  Walbdrgisstipt,  for  Protestants,  pens. 
6-6  J(.  —  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Ahr,  near  the  station :  *Rhbini8CHEb 
HoF,  R.  2»/«-6,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  7-9  Jf;  •Palast-Hotel  ,  R.  3-10,  B.  1,  D.  3, 
pens.  6-12  Jf,  with  garden  and  restaurant  (see  below);  *Eabl  Schbodeb, 
R.  2-5,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  6-10  uT;  Hop  von  Holland,  R.  A  B.  31/2-4,  D.  3, 
pens.  6V2-8  Jt;  Krone,  R.  2-5,  B.  1,  D.  2Vs,  pens.  6-10  UK;  Tbaubb, 
R.  2-31/2,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  61/2-8  J(;  Kaiseb  Wilhelm,  with  lift,  R.  from  2, 
pens.  d-'MJt;  Geemania,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens  6-8  Jf ;  Mabqabete  Bonn  5 
Kessleb)  Stebk,  R  ^  B.  21/2,  pens.  5  Jt;  Goldeneb  Ankeb^  Rbighsadleb; 
GoLDENEB  PFLDa.  —  Private  apartments  may  also  be  procured. 

Cafte.  Bellevue,  Johannitberg ^  both  with  gardens  and  view.  —  Restau- 
rant. Pala»t-H6tel  (see  above),  D.  2.4;  Stem^  D.  11/2  Ui^[;  and  others.  — 
Wine  Boom  of  the  Winter-  Verein^  near  the  station. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  village,  1  pers.  60,  each  additional 
pers.  30  pf.  —  For  longer  drives  the  chaises  are  usuaUy  the  same  as  from 
Ahrweiler. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Oface,  near  the  Cur-Hotel. 

Physician,  Dr.  K.  Qrube  (speaks  English). 

Neuenahr,  a  flourishing  modern  watering-place,  containing  2850 
inhab.  and  visited  by  11,500  patients  yearly,  consists  of  three  formerly 
separate  villages :  Hemmessen  and  Wadenheirrij  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Ahr,  with  the  railway-station,  the  post-office,  the  Protestant, 
and  a  new  Catholic  church,  and  Beul^  on  the  right  bank,  with  the 
old  Roman  Catholic  church  and  the  large  and  comfortable  Bath 
Establishment^  rebuilt  in  1899.  The  water  of  the  five  copious  thermal 
springs  (86-104^  Fahr.),  which  were  discovered  in  1854,  is  alkaline 
and  chiefly  contains  bicarbonate  of  soda,  with  an  insignificant  ad- 
mixture of  carbonate  of  magnesia  and  carbonate  of  lime;  it  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid.  The  most  important  of 
all  is  the  Grosse  Sprudely  discovered  in  1861.  It  occasionally  rises  in 
athick  jet,  8-10  ft.  in  height.  The  springs  are  beneficial  in  cases  of 
chronic  catarrh,  derangement  of  the  pulmonary  and  digestive  organs, 
enlargement  of  the  liver,  diabetes,  and  uric  acid  diathesis.  The 
climate  of  Neuenahr  is  admirably  suited  for  lung-diseases  of  a  non- 
irritable  nature. 

A  road  near  the  Victoria  Hotel  and  a  footpath  at  the  old  Roman 
Catholic  church  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  wooded  basaltic  hill  which  is 
crowned  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  Oaatle  of  Neuenahr,  built  by  Otto 
von  Are  about  IS^.    The  Are  family  became  extinct  in  1353,  and  the  castle 


Ahr  Valley.  AHRWEILEB.  Id.  RouU.   99 

then  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Knights  of  Bodesberg,  who  afterwardi 
assumed  the  title  Count  of  Kenen-Are.  It  was  destroyed  in  1871  by  Arch- 
bishop Siegfried  of  Cologne  with  the  help  of  the  inhabitants  of  Ahrweiler. 
The  small  tower  at  the  top  commands  a  fine  view.  —  Other  walks  may 
be  taken  to  Semmetten  and  back ,  Vs  ^^  >  ^^  ^^^  Johannitberg  (open-air 
restaurant)  and  back,  y^  hr.j  to  the  HiltztiUl  (Victoria-Hohe)  and  back, 
*U  hr. ;  to  the  top  of  the  Landskron  and  back,  2  hrs. ;  to  AhrweUer^  and  to 
the  Calvarienberg  (see  below),  and  back,  11/2-2  hrs. 

8  M.  Ahrweiler.  —  Hotels.  Stbrn,  B.  lVa-2V«,  D.  21/2,  pens.  6-6  UT; 
Drbi  Kbonen,  B.  lV2-d,  D.  2-2 V2t  pens.  41/2-5  Uif,  with  garden;  Deutboheb 
HoF.  —  Winter-  Verein.,  near  the  Walporzheimer  Thor. 

Carriage  Tariff.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  1  pers.  60,  each  ad- 
ditional pers.  30  pf.  *,  to  the  Calvarienberg  1  J(^  each  addit.  pers.  40  pf.  \ 
to  Walporzheim^  Marienthal,  or  Neuena?ir^  one-horse  (for  1-3  pers.)  I'/s, 
two-horse  (4-5  pers.)  272  •^;  to  Altenahr  5  or  7  •#,  there  and  back  spend- 
ing the  whole  day  10  or  13,  passing  the  night  14  or  iSJf;  to  the  Laaeher 
See  13  or  16  Jf^  there  and  back  17  or  22  J(, 

AhrweiUr  (340  ft.)  is  a  thriving  little  town  with  5100  inhab., 
surrounded  by  old  walls  with  well-preserved  gates,  and  carrying  on 
an  active  trade  in  wine.  In  the  middle  ages  It  belonged  to  the 
Electorate  of  Cologne,  and  was  repeatedly  besieged  during  the  feud 
between  the  chapter  of  the  cathedral,  to  which  it  adhered,  and 
the  deposed  archbishops.  In  1646  and  1680  the  town  was  besieged 
by  the  French,  hy  whom  in  1689  it  was  entirely  burned  with  the 
exception  of  ten  houses.  The  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrtnct^  found- 
ed in  1245,  dates  partly  from  the  14th  and  the  end  of  the  15th 
century.  —  Pleasant  walk  from  the  station  to  Lantershofen.  Fine 
view  from  the  Calvarienberg  (see  above),  a  rooky  height  V-i^-  ^  ^^^ 
S.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr,  crowned  with  a  Franciscan  monastery, 
dating  from  1678,  but  occupied  since  1838  by  a  girls'  school  managed 
by  Ursuline  nuns.  Another  walk  may  be  taken  from  the  Calvarien- 
berg vlsl  the  Steinthalskopf  (good  views)  and  through  the  QeUhach- 
Thal  and  Heckenbach-Thal  to  (I3/4  hr.)  Walporzheim. 

The  railway  skirts  the  old  walls  of  Ahrweiler  on  the  S. 

91/2  M.  Walporzheim  (St.  Peter,  with  garden ;  Deutscher  Kaiser j 
at  the  station ;  St.  Joseph  or  Winzer-  Verein,  good  wine  at  all),  a  place 
(380  inhab.)  mentioned  under  the  name  of  Walpredeshoven  in  a  docu- 
ment of  893,  and  long  celebrated  for  its  wine.  This  village  lies  at 
the  beginning  of  the  narrower  part  of  the  Ahr  Valley ,  which  is 
well-Buited  for  walkers  as  far  as  (2-21/2  hrs.)  Altenahr. 

The  railway  and  road  now  enter  a  rocky  ravine,  flanked  by  jagged 
and  riven  cliffs  of  slate ;  on  the  left  rushes  the  Ahr,  on  the  right 
rises  an  almost  perpendicular  black  wall  of  slate-rook,  from  which  a 
single  ridge  called  the  ^Bunte  KuK  projects.  At  the  top  is  a  small 
inn,  which  commands  an  admirable  view ,  especially  by  evening 
light,  and  may  be  reached  in  72  ^^-  either  from  Ahrweiler  or  "Wal- 
porzheim. The  railway  crosses  and  recrosses  the  stream.  On  the 
left  bank ,  adjoining  the  road,  are  the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  the  nun- 
nery of  Marienthaly  near  the  hamlet  of  that  name. 

111/2  M.  Demau  (Brenig,  KSlner  Hof,  hoth  unpretending),  helow 


100    BouU  14.  ALTENAHR.  Mr  Valley. 

the  railway-station.  The  valley  again  contracts,  and  the  Ahr  winds 
through  a  wild,  rocky  district.  The  road  follows  the  left  bank  of  the 
stream,  passing  opposite  the  precipitous  cliff  on  the  top  of  which 
stand  the  fragments  of  the  Saffenburg  (845  ft.),  captnred  by  the 
French  in  1702  and  destroyed  by  the  imperial  troops  in  1704.  The 
railway  passes  through  a  tunnel  beneath  the  Saffenburg,  orosses 
the  river,  and  reaches  — 

I3V2  M.  Maysehoas  (Inn  of  the  Winzer-Verein,  at  the  station).  A 
bridge  leads  to  the  village,  which  lies  on  the  left  bank.  A  path,  com- 
manding beautiful  views,  ascends  hence  to  the  top  of  the  Horn  (p.  101). 

The  railway  once  more  crosses  the  Ahr.  At  the  Loehmuhle 
rV2  M.  from  Maysohoss ;  Inn,  very  fair,  B.  &  B.  2-3,  D.  2-2 V2>  pens. 
4-5  Jf)  both  the  road  and  the  railway  enter  a  deep  cutting  through 
the  projecting  grauwacke  cliffs  of  the  Ouckley^  which  may  be  ascended 
by  steps  from  this  point  -^  We  next  pass  the  hamlets  of  Loach  and 
Reimerzhofen ,  at  the  latter  of  which ,  1  M.  from  the  Lochmfihle, 
pedestrians-should  ascend  a  path  through  the  vineyards  to  the  right 
to  (^4  hr.)  the  "Weisse  Erenz  (p.  101 ;  paths  through  the  vineyards 
are  closed  from  the  end  of  August  till  the  middle  of  October).  The 
railway  crosses  the  river  beyond  Laach,  but,  after  ascending  a  steep 
gradient,  returns  to  the  left  bank  by  means  of  a  bridge,  275  ft.  long 
and  56  ft.  high,  and  side  by  side  with  the  road  enters  a  short  tunnel, 
by  which  the  circuit  of  IYjM.  described  by  the  valley  is  cut  off. 
The  river  is  again  crossed  before  Altenahr  is  reached. 

15  M.  Altenahr.  —  Hotels.  *Ca8pahi,  B.  A  B.  2Vt-3Vs,  D.  8,  pens. 
iyz-7  Ji;  •RHE1NI8CHKR  HoF,  with  garden  on  the  Ahr,  B.  4  A.  IVa'SVsi 
B.  s/4f  !>•  from  l>/s,  pens,  from  5  •#,  both  about  4  min.  from  the  station ; 


*Po8T,  at  the  station,  with  small  garden  and  view,  B.  A  B.  SV^i  pens.  6  UK ; 
Weissbs  Ebeuz,  R.  lyr^yA^  B.  "A,  D.  ±^^2^2,  pens.  i-S^/zJf;  Hotel  Pkhbion 
Engelslet,  at  the  foot  of  the  JSngeUley  (p.  101).  —  Rettaurant  of  (he  Winzer- 


Vereiny  at  the  rail,  station.  —  Permissions  for  trout- fishing  in  the  Ahr  are 
issued  by  the  Burgomaster. 

AUenalir  (345  ft.),  with  630  inhab.,  situated  amidst  very  pic- 
turesque scenery,  is  the  final  goal  of  most  visitors  to  the  Ahr  Valley, 
and  in  summer,  especially  on  Sundays,  it  is  often  unpleasantly 
(crowded.  The  bridge,  on  the  road  from  the  station  to  the  village, 
commands  a  lovely  prospect,  both  upstream  and  downstream ;  another 
good  point  of  view  is  the  Henlei,  above  the  station.  The  prettily- 
situated  Romanesque  church  has  a  Gothic  choir. 

A  broad  path,  beginning  opposite  the  H6tel  Caspari,  ascends 
to  (8-10  min.)  the  *Cagtle  of  Altenalir  (950  ft. ;  adm.  50  pf.)*  the 
ruins  of  which  are  perched  on  a  bold,  jagged  cliff,  rising  im- 
mediately above  the  village.  This  was  once  the  seat  of  the  power- 
ful Counts  of  Are  and  afterwards  of  the  Counts  of  Hochstaden,  of 
whose  elder  branch  Conrad,  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  the  founder  of 
the  cathedral  of  Cologne  in  1248,  was  the  last  scion.  The  castle, 
which  is  said  to  have  existed  as  early  as  the  10th  cent.,  was  con- 
siderably strengthened  by  the  Electors  of  Cologne  in  the  14th  and 

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Ahr  Valley.  BRUOK.  14.  Route.   101 

15th;  It  feU  into  the  hands  of  the  French  In  1672  and  again  in  1690, 
and  was  finally  destroyed  in  consequence  of  the  Peace  of  Utrecht 
(1714).  —  The  view  from  the  Weiase  Kreuz,  on  a  rocky  ridge  to 
the  N.  of  the  castle,  on  the  footpath  between  Reimerzhofen  (p.  100) 
and  Altenahr,  surpasses  that  from  the  castle,  as  the  latter  itself  forms 
the  foreground  of  the  landscape.  The  ascent  to  the  Weisse  Ereuz 
from  Altenahr  also  begins  with  the  broad  path  mentioned  above. 
Still  finer  is  the  view  from  the  *Schwar%e  Kreu%,  on  the  height  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr,  opposite  the  castle  on  the  S.  (reached 
from  the  rail,  station  through  the  vineyards  in  Y4  hr.).  About 
10  min.  farther  on  is  the  Teufelsloch,  a  gap  in  the  rocks,  affording 
a  view  of  the  Ahr  deep  below. 

Another  fine  point  of  view  i0  the  *Horn  (1S30  fk.).  We  follow  the  road 
to  C/4  M.)  Altenbwrg^  then  turn  to  the  left,  and,  after  100  paces,  take  the 
footpath  to  the  right  and  ascend  to  C/4  hr.)  the  pavilion  on  the  top.  We 
may  retnm  either  to  the  E.  via  Loach  (p.  106;  IVs  hr.),  or  to  the  S.  via 
Dmn  and  BrUek  (see  below). 

Other  points  of  view  are  the  EngeUUy ,  to  the  S.  of  the  castle  (ascent 
from  the  lower  end  of  the  tunnel  through  which  the  highroad  passes,  V^  hr. ; 
inn;  adm.  25  pf.)^  the  KaleHbomer  Hdh€  (inn),  3  H.  from  Altenahr  on 
the  road  to  Meekenhetm  (p.  903);  and  the  Hasenberg  (1590  ft.),  near  Ober- 
KrdhUngen^  i^t  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Altenburg.  Near  the  latter,  at  Vellm. 
are  the  hill  of  HoehthUrmen  (1495  ft.)  and  the  Heidmgarttn^  both  surrounded 
with  basaltic  blocks. 

The  railway  continues  to  ascend  the  Ahr  Yalley,  crossing  and 
recrossing  the  river  at  the  cliffs  below  the  Teufelsloch  (to  the  right) 
and  the  hamlet  ot  Altenburg  (to  the  left;  see  above).  On  a  bold  emi- 
nence to  the  right,  between  the  valleys  of  the  Viicheler  Bach  and 
Sarhaehy  rises  the  chateau  of  Herr  von  Boselager,  opposite  which  lies 
the  village  of  Kreuzberg  (Wire's  Inn).  Once  more  returning  to  the 
right  bank,  the  train  passes  the  village  of  Piitsfeld,  and  reaches  — 

17  M.  Brucfc (Linden,  poor),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kesselinger-Thal. 

In  the  KeaaeUnger-Thid,  with  fine  rocky  scenery,  a  road  ascends  to 
(s/s  M.)  DetMj  where  the  path  from  the  Horn  descends  (see  above),  and  the 
path  to  the  Hohe  Acht  mentioned  below  diverges  to  the  S.,  and  (2  M.) 
Keueling.  Here  the  road  forks :  to  the  right  to  Weidenb<ichy  Hertehbach^  and 
(5Vt  M.;  about  3  hrs\  walk  from  Briick)  KaUenbom  (Langenfeld's  Inn); 
.thence  to  the  Hoke  Aeht  (see  below),  */*-!  hr.  —  The  footpath  leading  to 
the  S.  from  Denn,  and  ascending  the  Sennthal,  another  valley  with  pic- 
turesque  rocky  scenery,  is  preferable.  Farther  on,  it  leads  through  mea- 
dows and  fine  woods  to  the  Hohe  Worth  (2050  ft. ;  on  the  right)  and  past 
the  forester's  house  of  Hohe  Aeht  (rfmts.)  to  the  top  of  the  Hohe  Acht 
(p.  102 ;  about  3Vs  hrs.). 

The  river  is  crossed  and  recrossed.  — 191/2  M-  Hormingen  (Surges, 
poor).  Beyond  Liers  (3  M.  up  the  Lierser-Thal  rises  the  picturesque 
ruin  of  Wenzberg)  we  reach  — 

22  M.  Dumpelfeld ,  where  the  highroad  forks ,  the  W.  branch 
ascending  the  Ahr  Valley,  the  S.  branch  that  of  Adenau. 

The  road  that  continues  hence  through  the  Ahr  Valley  leads  by  /nssJ, 
the  picturesquely  -  situated  (2  H.)  Schuld,  the  (2  M.)  Lat{fenbacher  Bo/ 
(inn),  and  Fuchsho/en  to  the  (I/2  M.)  Washolder  Ho/  and  (>/•!  M.)  Antweiler 
(Brenig),  a  hamlet  lying  V4  H.  to  the  N.  of  MUeeh^  on  the  road  from  Adenau 
to  Blankenheim.  —  From  the  last  two  we  may  ascend  in  IV4  hr.  to  the 
top  of  the  Areinbergt  a  baaaltic  cone  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the  an« 


102     Route  16,  KRUFT. 

eestral  castle  of  the  Dukes  of  Aremberg  and  a  view-tower,  fiO  ft.  high 
(key  kept  by  the  burgomaster  at  Antweiler). 

The  railway  and  highroad  now  quit  the  Ahi  Valley,  and  ascend 
that  of  the  Adenauer  Bach,  vi^  Nieder-Adenau  and  Leimbach, 

26  M.  Adenau  (950  ft.;  Eifeler  Hof,  R.  A  B.  2-2 V2,  I>.  2,  pens. 
4-6  Jf;  Halber  Mond,  R.  i  Jf  60,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  11/2-2,  pens.  4  Jf; 
Krone ;  Wildes  Schwein')^  a  district-town  with  1700  inhab.,  on  both 
hanks  of  the  stream.  The  parish-church,  dating  from  the  11th  cent., 
but  subsequently  completely  altered,  has  a  rectangular  choir  and  a 
late-Gothic  carved  high-altar. 

l^ear  the  village  rise  the  two  highest  peaks  of  the  Eifel.  About  4^2  M. 
to  the  E.,  and  reached  by  the  new  road  up  the  Exhach-Thal^  is  the  *Hohe 
Acht  (2495  ft.),  which  commands  an  extensive  view  over  the  Eifel  as  far 
as  the  mountains  of  the  Rhine,  and  on  the  X.  even  to  the  cathedral  of 
Cologne.  At  the  top  is  a  small  refuge-hut,  the  key  of  which  is  kept  at  the 
forester^s  (see  p.  101),  to  the  left,  before  reaching  the  top.  —  About  4V2  M. 
to  the  8.  of  Adenau  rises  the  steep  Nfirburg  (2180  ft.),  surmounted  by  a 
ruined  castle  mentioned  as  early  as  943,  with  a  lofty  tower  (key  at  the 
inn)  commanding  a  fine  panorama  (ascent  from  Quiddelhach^  on  the  Kelberg 
road,  3  H.  from  Adenau,  turning  to  the  left  beyond  the  village,  25  min.; 
or  from  Breidicheid  by  a  direct  footpath  in  l>/4  hr. ;  comp.  the  Hap,  p.  202). 

Diligence  from  Adenau  once  daily  to  (10  H.)  Kelberg  (Pauli,  fidr)  and 
thence  to  XJlmen  (p.  206)  and  (20  M.,  in  5  hrs.)  Cochem  (p.  193). 

15.   From  Andernach  and  from  Brohl  to  the 
Laacher  See. 

Railway  to  Krufl  or  Niedermendig ;  thence  on  foot  to  the  Abbey  of 

Loach  (from  Eruft,  vi&  the  Krufter  Ofen,  in  2V4  hrs.,  from  Niedermendig 

in  1  hr.);  then  vift  Wauenach,  in  IV4  hr.,  to  Bad  Tifnnisstein,  a  station  on 
the  Brohl  VaUey  Railway  (p.  103). 

F&OM  Andb&naoh  to  NiBDB&MENDia  (Jfoym,  Daun,  OeroUtein, 
see  p.  207),  91/2  M. ;  hranch-raUway  in  I/2  hr.  (fares  1  ulT  20,  90  pf.). 

Andernach,  see  p.  75.  — 4  M.  Plaidt;  the  village  (360  ft.;  ZiUlen) 
has  a  handsome  church.  From  the  station  we  reach  in  Y4  hr.  the 
Bauacher-Muhle  (Inn,  pens.  3 V2~^  •^)i  surrounded  hy  splendid  trees, 
where  the  Nette  is  precipitated  over  blocks  of  lava,  forming  a  series 
of  small  cascades.  In  the  vicinity  are  extensive  tufa-quarries  (comp. 
p.  103).  On  a  rock  rising  abruptly  from  the  Nette,  3/4 hr.  to  the  left, 
stands  the  ruin  of  Werr^rseck  (660  ft.),  with  a  well-preserved  tower. 
—  The  hills  which  are  now  visible  on  both  sides  of  the  line  are  all 
extinct  volcanoes :  to  the  right  are  the  Nickenicher  Weinberg  (736  ft.) 
and  the  Krufter  0/'cn(  1538 ft.) ;  to  the  left,  the  Plaidter  Hummerich 
(968  ft.),  vdth  its  saddle-like  summit,  and  the  Korretsberg(^Sitt,'), 

6  M.  Knift  (Auer),  a  village  with  1600  inhahitants.  A  pleasant 
road,  soon  contracting  to  a  footpath,  leads  from  the  station  to 
(II/4  hr.)  the  Krufter  Ofen  (see  above),  which  commands  a  good  view 
of  the  Laacher  See  and  the  Seven  Mts.  (descent  to  Laach,  1  hr.). 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  in  the  plain,  is  the  Frauen-Kirche ,  or 
church  of  St.  Oenovefa,  where  according  to  the  legend  the  saint  was 
found  by  her  hushand  Siegfried,  Count  Palatine  of  pohenslmmeyn 


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BROHLTHAL.  15.  Route.   103 

fd.  754).  The  churoh  contains  monuments  of  a  married  couple 
(14th  cent.),  said  to  represent  them.  Nnmerons  mineral  springs 
bubble  np  on  the  roadside,  near  the  brook  which  crosses  the  road, 
the  water  of  which  is  now  bottled  and  exported. 

91/2  M.  Niedermendig  (Oute  Quelle,  Post,  B.  &  B.  2-2 V2, 
D.  1-2  Ufr,  both  very  fair;  Erholung,  R.  &  B.  2-2Vo,  D.  II/4,  pens. 
4V2^;  SehiiUenhof,  R.  11/2-2,  B.  1/2-3/4  uT,  pens.  3-6  Jf),  a  village 
with  3200  inhab.  and  an  old  church  recently  enlarged ,  containing 
mural  paintings  of  the  12th  cent,  stands  upon  a  stream  of  basaltic  lava 
(probably  ejected  by  the  Hochstein),  which  yields  admirable  material 
for  millstones,  paving-stones,  etc.  The  quarries,  which  are  more  than 
60  ft.  under  ground,  and  were  probably  once  worked  by  the  Romans, 
are  almost  all  connected.  The  roof  is  supported  by  massive  pillars 
left  for  the  purpose.  A*guide  (1  ulf)  precedes  visitors  with  a  torch ; 
the  inspection  occupies  an  hour  (overcoat  desirable  j.  The  deserted 
galleries  are  used  as  beer-cellars  on  account  of  their  low  temperature, 
to  which  the  beer  of  Niedermendig  chiefly  owes  its  reputation.  — 
Continuation  of  the  railway  to  Mayen  and  Oerolstein,  see  p.  207. 

Fbom  Nibdbbmbndig  to  Laaoh  (p.  104),  3V2  M.,  by  a  dusty 
road.  Carriages  meet  the  trains  (4  Jf,  with  two  horses  6  Jf).  The 
second  half  of  the  route,  after  the  intervening  hills  have  been  crossed, 
affords  a  charming  view  of  the  lake  and  the  fine  abbey-church. 

Fbom  Bbohl  (p.  74)  to  Kbmpbnich,  15  M.,  narrow-gauge  rail- 
way in  13/4  hr.  —  The  line  ascends  the  Brohlthaly  a  deep  winding 
valley,  enclosed  by  wooded  mountains.  On  both  sides  are  numerous 
tufa-quarries,  some  of  which  are  open,  while  others  are  driven  like 
mining-shafts  into  the  hill.  The  extensive  stratum  of  Tufa,  50- 
100  ft.  in  thickness,  which  covers  the  floor  of  the  valley  and  the 
lower  slopes  of  the  hills,  is,  like  the  conglomerate  stone  mentioned 
at  p.  77,  the  result  of  showers  of  volcanic  matter.  When  pounded 
('trass')  and  mixed  with  lime  this  tufa  possesses  the  invaluable 
property  of  hardening  under  water,  and  it  is  largely  exported  to 
Holland  for  the  construction  of  dykes.  —  To  the  right,  after  2  M., 
in  the  middle  of  the  valley,  rises  the  small  castle  of  Sdiweppenhurg 
(310  ft.),  probably  erected  in  the  16th  century. 

The  Hbilbbunmsb-Thal,  which  diverges  here  to  the  S.,  contains  the 
Heilbrtmnen  (385  ft.),  a  mineral  spring  similar  to  the  Kreuzbrannen  of 
Marienbad.  —  The  Brohl  Valley  generally,  as  well  as  the  vicinity  of  the 
Laacher  See,  abounds  in  mineral  springs,  impregnated  with  the  carbonic 
acid  gas  that  Issnes  from  the  Assures  of  the  slate-rock. 

2Y2  M.  Bad  TdnniBStein  (410  ft. ;  Curhaua^  very  fair,  R.  from  3, 
B-  V^y  pens.  5-6^2  •^)»  t^e  water  of  which,  resembling  that  of 
Selters,  was  collected  in  a  tank  as  early  as  1700. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  Brohlbach  and,  traversing  a  tunnel, 
enters  the  broader  part  of  the  Brohl  Valley.  —  31/2  ^-  Burgbrohl 
(480  ft.;  Traubey  unpretending  but  good;  Krone) ,  picturesquely 
situated,  with  an  old  castle,  restored  in  the  18th  century. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


104  Route  15,  LAAOHERSEE.  From  Brohl 

Beyond  (4^2  ^0  ^tiler,  the  well-fonned  ancient  crater  of  the 
Bausenberg  (1150  ft.)  rises  on  the  right.  —  6  M.  Nieder-Zissen 
(Fuhrmann). 

From  Xieder-Zissen  a  road  leada  past  the  yolcanie  peak  (*/4  hr.)  of 
Herchenberg  (1060  ft.),  Oher-LiUtingm  (25  min.),  and  (25  min.)  Nieder-Lnu 
tingen  to  (40  min.)  the  castle  of  BMineek  (p.  74),  where  we  reach  the  Rhine, 
a  walk  of  about  2»/s  hrs.  in  all.  —  From  Nieder-Zissen  to  JTeusnahr  (p.  98), 
about  12  H. 

The  next  station  Is  (71/2  M.)  Ober-ZUaen  (750  ft),  at  the  con- 
fluence of  several  brooks  forming  the  Brohlbach.  On  a  lofty  phono- 
lithio  cone  on  the  right,  21/4  M.  from  Ober-Zissen,  appears  the  castle 
of  Qlbrack  (1550  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  points  in  this  district,  with 
an  extensive  view.  The  castle  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689. 
The  key  of  the  ruin  is  kept  at  Rademacher's  Inn  in  Hain,  the  village 
below  the  castle  (1  M.).  —  The  railway  no-w  ascends  more  rapidly, 
with  the  Hannebaeher  Lei  and  the  Perlkopf  (1930  ft.)  on  the  right. 
10  M.  Brenk.  To  the  right  rises  the  ScheUkopf  (1^76  ft).  —  11  M. 
Engeln,  at  the  highest  point  of  the  line  (1640  ft.),  commands  an 
extensive  view.  —  At  (12  M.)  Wei6«m  (1330  ft.)  are  quarries  of 
hard  grey  tufa.  —  15  M.  Kempenich, 


Visitors  to  the  Laacher  See  quit  the  narrow-gauge  line  at  Bad 
Tonnisstein  (p.  103).  The  road  thence  (13/4-2  hrs.)  passes  (V3M.) 
the  ruins  of  the  (1.)  Carmelite  nunnery  of  Antoniusstein  (hence  the 
corruption  'Tonnisstein'),  and  ascends  to  the  right  to  (1^/4  M.) 
Wassenaeh  (915  ft. ;  Porsch).  About  ^/^  M.  above  "Wassenach  we 
reach  the  wood  (1150  ft.),  where  the  road  begins  to  descend  towards 
the  Laacher  See.  On  the  right  rises  the  wooded  Veitskopf  (^iSSO  ft.), 
a  volcanic  peak  with  a  double  crater  opening  on  the  W. ,  and  a 
broad,  abruptly-inclined  lava-stream.  A  path  (guide-post)  leads  to 
the  left  to  the  Lydia-Thurmj  commanding  a  wide  prospect.  The  road 
to  Laach  skirts  the  lake  and  in  Y2  ^^*  reaches  the  comfortable 
Hdtel  Maria  Laach  (R.  2-3,  D.  3  Jf), 

The  ^Laacher  See  (900  ft.)  occupies  a  nearly  circular  basin, 
12/3  M.  in  diameter  and  5  M.  in  circumference,  and  is  about  175  ft. 
deep  in  the  middle.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  crater-like  tarns  of  the 
Eifel  (p.  202),  and,  though  not  itself  a  crater,  has  doubtless  been 
formed  by  volcanic  action. 

The  volcanic  formations  for  which  the  Vorder-Eifel  is  remarkable 
occur  here  in  very  great  variety,  and  the  lake  itself  has  obviously  been 
the  centra]  point  of  the  volcanic  activity  of  this  neighbourhood.  It  is  sur> 
rounded  by  five  craters :  the  Veittkopf  (see  above),  the  Laacherkopf  (ibOS  ft.), 
the  LaacTier  Rothehberg  (1670  ft),  the  Thelenherg  (1328  ft.),  and  the  Kru/ter 
Of  en  (p.  102).  Upwards  of  forty  aiflFerent  streams  of  lava  have  been  counted 
in  the  environs  of  the  lake.  —  The  lake  has  no  natural  outlet,  but  in  the 
12-13th  cent,  an  artificial  shaft  was  formed,  by  which  the  superfluous  water 
was  conducted  to  the  Nette.    This  was  re-opened  and  improved  in  1842-44. 

On  the  S.W.  bank  rises  the  Benedictine  Abbey  of  *  Laach, 
founded  in  1093  by  Count  Palatine  Henry  (d.  1096),  once  one  of  the 
wealthiest  and  most  celebrated  in  Germany.   The  abbey  was  sap- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


to  LaacK  LAAOH.  i6.  UouU.   105 

pressed  by  the  French  in  1802,  and  from  1863  to  1873  it  was  in 
the  hands  of  the  Jesuits,  who  established  a  school  here  for  pupils  of 
the  order.  In  1893  it  was  restored  to  the  Benedictines.  The  *  Churchy 
completed  in  1156,  with  dome,  transepts,  two  choirs,  five  towers, 
and  crypt,  is  a  noble  example  of  the  Romanesque  style,  being 
most  impressive  externally  (p.  xxviii).  The  upper  parts  of  the 
towers  and  the  beautiful  Porch  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  (in  Ibrm 
of  a  cloister),  restored  in  1859,  belong  to  the  close  of  the  12th 
century.  The  ornamental  details  are  executed  with  wonderful  deli- 
cacy. The  vaulting  in  the  interior  deviates  from  the  usual  style  in 
having  its  longitudinal  sections  in  the  nave  no  broader  than  those 
in  the  aisles.  In  the  W.  choir  is  the  monument  of  the  founder, 
a  sarcophagus  with  a  recumbent  figure,  beneath  a  hexagonal  canopy 
supported  by  columns ,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  13th  century. 
The  two  front  columns  are  monoliths  of  variegated  calc-sinter,  found 
in  the  Roman  aqueduct  through  the  Eifel  Mts. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  lake,  nearly  opposite  the  abbey,  is  a  boilding 
-of  two  stories,  erected  by  the  Jesuits.  Kear  it,  about  20  ft.  above  the 
water,  is  a  ^mofetWy  a  hollow  7  ft.  in  width,  and  3-4  ft.  in  depth,  whence 
a  stream  of  carbonic  acid  gas  (most  perceptible  in  wet  weather)  constantly 
issues.  The  suffocating  nature  of  the  lower  strata  of  the  air  in  this  hol- 
low may  be  tested  by  stooping  down  and  attempting  to  breathe  it. 

A  cart-road  ascends  from  Laaeh  vi&  B^l  (Oligschlager's  Inn,  with  key 
of  the  tower)  to  the  (I'A  hr.)  view-tower  on  the  OAnaehala  (1873  ft.),  com- 
manding an  extensive  prospect  of  the  Laaeher  See,  the  Pellenz,  the  moun- 
tains on  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle,  and  of  Olbriick  and  the  Seven  Mts.  to 
the  K.  (in  dear  weather,  the  cathearal  of  Cologne  is  visible).  From  Bell 
vi&  Ohermmdig  (Spitzlay,  plain),  with  the  Elisabethbrunnen ,  to  Nieder- 
mendig  (p.  103)  1  hr.  Interesting  view  to  the  right  of  the  Ettringer  Bellen- 
berg  (p.  207),  the  upper  part  of  which  resembles  the  section  of  a  volcano. 

16.  Coblenz  and  its  Environs. 

The  piers  of  the  large  Steamboats  are  below  the  bridge-of-boats.  — 
The  Central  Bailwat  Station,  opened  in  1902,  for  all  lines,  ia  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  town,  at  the  foot  of  the  Earthause,  about  IV4  M.  from  the 
piers,  and  V2  M.  from  the  Rhine  Promenade.  There  is  another  station  at 
JBhrenbreitsUin  (p.  ill)  for  the  trains  of  the  Railway  of  the  Bight  Bank.  — 
Hotel-omnibuses  meet  the  trains  at  the  central  station ,  and  also  some  of 
the  steamers,  but  not  the  trains  at  Ehrenbreitstein. 

Hotels.  On  the  Rhine:  *Giant  (Rieee;  PI.  a),  Belusvdb  (PI.  b),  two  large 
houses  of  the  first  class;  *Ankbs  (PL  c),  R.  2-4,  B.  iV4,  D.  3,  pens.  7-9  Jl; 
Tbaubb,  Rhein-Strasse,  very  fair,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens,  from  6  JK; 
Victoria,  opposite  the  bridge-of-boats,  plain,  R.  i'/z-S  »^-  —  ^n  the  Town: 
*MoNOPOL  (PI.  f),  at  the  corner  of  the  Sehloss-Str.  and  the  Lohr-Rondell, 
with  electric  light  and  lift,  R.  2V«-6,  B.  1,  D.  3;  Wildbs  Schwein  (PL  e), 
.  in  the  Plan,  commercial,  R.  1V«-3V2»  B- i>  D.  2^2  J(;  Hotel  db  Treves, 
in  the  Clemens-Platz,  next  the  theatre  (PI.  26);  HStel  db  Ck>LOGNE,  by 
the  Moselle  bridge,  R.  IV2-2V2,  B.  1,  D.  21/4  UK,  well  spoken  of;  Enoels, 
Schloss-Str.  34,  K.  &  B.  IVa-^Vz  •^;  Spsingbb,  Lohr-Str.  66.  —  Penaiona. 
English  Lodge  {Villa  Germania),  Mainzer-Str.  98,  pens.  4V2-6  UK;  E6UI  Khein- 
hof^  at  Pfaffendorf,  see  p.  112. 

Gaf^B-Bettaurants.  ^JU^oaMpoI,  at  the  Giant  Hotel,  with  a  fine  view  of 
Ehrenbreitstein;  'Sl&dtisehe  Festhalle  (p.  109;  wine  &  beer  restaurant) ;  at 
the  Hdtel  de  Trivee,  see  above,  very  fair ;  refreshments  in  the  *  Trinkhalle^  on 
the  Bhine  Promenade,  military  music  in  summer  on  Thurs.  afternoons.  — 


106  Route  16.  COBLENZ.  Practical  NoU,n, 

Winn,  *TUlmann^  near  the  Kanfhaus  CP'  106),  with  a  view  of  the  Moselle; 
Scheidy  Frachtmarkt.  —  OMl-Ccuino  (PI.  2),  good  wine;  introduction  by 
a  member  necessary.  —  Beer.  FramUtaner  LHsfbrAu^  Fraruiskanery  both 
in  the  Gceben-Platz ;  MUnchner  mndl,  Schlo8s-Str.  34. 

Baths.  Warm,  Russian,  Tuikish,  and  other  baths  in  the  new  Resident- 
had^  Caatorpfafifen-Str.  8.  —  Biver- baths  in  the  Rhine,  attached  to  the 
bridge-of- boats  (bath  50  pf.)  and  at  the  new  swimming-baths  (also  for  ladies  $ 
warm  baths)  in  the  Rhine  Promenade. 

Post  and  Telegraph  OfEoe  (PL  22),  at  the  comer  of  the  Clemens-Platz. 

Oarriagaa.  Within  the  town-limits  (including  Ehrenbreitstein  and  all 
the  railway-stations):  per  Vi  hr.,  1-2  pers.  70  pf.,  3-4  pers.  1  Jl;  with  two 
horses  1  Uf ,  1  Uif  30  pf. ;  each  V4  hr.  additional,  50  pf.,  with  two  horses 
60  pf.  Double  fare  at  night  (11  -6  in  summer,  10-7  in  winter).  Luggage 
from  33  to  55  lbs.  25  pf.,  up  to  110  lbs.  50  pf.  BHdge  Toll  (32-29  pf.)  extra  on 
crossing  the  river.  —  Drive  to  the  Riiterstwx  (p.  liO)  via  the  Laubach 
4Vs  or  6,  there  and  back  with  2  hrs\  stay  6  or  8  Uif;  vi&  the  Eart- 
hause,  7  A  10,  or  10  A  ii  Jf;  fort  of  Ehrenbreitstein  (p.  HI),  or  to  the 
top  of  the  Asterstein ,  4  or  5 ,  and  back  with  2  hrs\  stay,  6  or  7  Jl 
(bridge-toll  extra). 

Local  Steamers  to  Ehrenbreitetein  (5  pf),  starting  opposite  the  end  of 
the  Rhein-Str.  (convenient  for  passengers  by  the  Railway  of  the  Right 
Bank);  to  VaUendar  (p.  84;  20  pf.),  from  the  piers  of  the  large  steamers 
twelve  times  daily;  to  the  Rhine  Promenade  (p.  109;  15  or  10  pf.),  Pf  off  en- 
dor/ (p.  112:  15  or  10  pf.),  Horehheim  (p.  113;  25  or  15  pf.),  Capellen  (p.  113 ; 
35  or  25  pf.),  Obeildhmtein  (p.  114 ;  35  or  25  pf.),  Rhens  (p.  115;  56  or  40  pf.), 
and  BraulxKh  (p.  115;  60  or  45  pf.),  from  the  *Hafen-Ciommi<<sariat%  above 
the  bridge-of-boats,  6-12  times  daily.  —  Moselle  Steamers^  see  p.  190. 

Ele<^o  Tramways.  From  the  Bridge-of -Boats  to  the  Central  Railway 
Station  and  the  SehUttenhof  (at  the  junction  of  the  streets  issuing  from 
the  Mainzer  Thor  and  the  L6hr-Thor).  —  From  the  Qoehen- Piatt  via  the 
Mainzer  Chauss^e  to  the  8chUtzenhaus  Q/a  hr. ;  16  pf.)  and  thence  in  summer 
to  Capellen  (p.  118;  25  min. ;  35  pf.).  —  From  the  Plan  to  LiUeel-Coblenz  and 
Ifeuendorf  —  From  the  former  Lohr-Thor  to  Ehrenbreitstein  viE  the  Kaiser 
Wilhelm  Ring  (p.  109).  and  the  Pfaffendorf  Bridge  (p.  109),  15  pf.  —  For 
electric  tramways  in  Ehrenbreitstein,  see  p.  Hi. 

English  Church  Service  at  8  and  ii  a.m.  and  6  (in  winter  5)  p.m.  in 
the  English  Chapel,  6oi^en-Str.,  X.  end  of  Victoria-Str. 

Principal  Attractions  (34  hrs.).  Walk  along  the  Rhine  to  the  Emperor 
William  Monument  and  th^n  past  the  Church  of  8t.  Castor  to  the  Qoeben- 
Plats;  thence  through  the  tree-shaded  squares  of  the  ^new  town'*,  passing 
the  Ropal  Palace^  and  along  the  Mainzer- ^^tr.  to  the  Pappel-Rondell  (p.  110); 
here  turn  to  the  left,  proceed  to  the  Empress  Augusta  Monument^  and  re- 
turn to  the  town  by  the  Rhine  Promenade.    Ascend  the  Ehrenbreitstein. 

Cobleiu  (200  ft),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Moselle  and  Rhine,  is  the 
capital  of  the  Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia  and  the  seat  of  the  civil 
and  military  authorities.  Pop.  46,000;  garrison  5000,  Ehrenbreit- 
stein not  Included  (see  p.  111).  Ooblenz  carries  on  an  important 
wine -trade  and  manufactures  large  quantities  of  sparkling  wine, 
most  of  which  is  exported  to  England  and  the  British  Colonies. 
Few  towns  on  the  Rhine  can  vie  with  Coblenz  in  beauty  of  situation, 
standing  as  it  does  at  the  junction  of  two  of  the  most  picturesque* 
rivers  in  Europe,  and  commanding  charming  views  in  every  direc- 
tion. Coblenz  contains  excellent  schools,  some  of  which  are  fre- 
quented by  English  girls.  There  is  also  a  Contervatorium  of  Music. 

As  the  pure  Latin  form  of  its  name  (Confiuentes)  indicates,  the  town 
was  founded  by  the  Romans.  The  original  casteuum  was  situated  on  the 
height  now  included  in  the  old  town,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Moselle  bridge,  but 
the  passage  over  the  Moselle,  which  it  was  built  to  protect,  seems  to  have 
been  usually  made  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Deutsche  Eck  (p.  107) 


y  Google 


y  Google 


8t.  Casto/i.  GOBLENZ.  16.  Route.   107 

until  the  middle  of  the  3rd  cent,  of  our  era.  The  great  military  road  then 
reconstructed  by  Aurelian  (270-275),  which  ran  in  the  line  now  joining  the  Mo- 
sel-Bahnhof  and  the  Lohr-Str.,  intersected  the  town  and  crossed  the  Moselle 
immediately  I  elow  the  present  bridse,  where  numerons  remains  of  a  Eo- 
man  bridge-of-piles  were  discovered  in  1864.  The  numerons  Roman  tomb' 
stones  that  have  been  found  on  the  highroad  indicate  that  the  population 
was  more  civil  than  military.  Although  a  FranKish  palatium  was  erected 
on  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  town  a^  early  as  the  6th  cent.,  Goblenz  remained 
a  place  of  little  importance  down  to  the  establishment  of  the  Rhenish 
Towns'  Confederation  (p.  166).  In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  it  was  alternately 
besieged  and  garrisoned  by  Swedish,  French,  and  Imperial  troops.  In  1688, 
although  the  town  was  nearly  destroyed  by  the  French  cannonade,  Mar- 
shal Boufflers  was  compelled  to  retreat  without  effecting  an  entry.  On 
the  completion  of  the  palace  in  1786  Gojblenz  became  the  residence  of 
the  Elector  of  Treves,  but  a  few  years  later  (1794)  it  was  taken  by  the 
French,  who  in  1796  made  it  the  capital  of  the  Department  of  the  Rhine 
and  Moselle.  In  1815  it  became  Prussian.  It  was  subsequently  converted 
into  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  on  the  Rhine,  bat  since  the  peace  of 
Frankfort  it  has  occupied  a  secondary  rank  as  compared  with  Mayence, 
Cologne,  Strassburg,  and  Mets.  Since  1890,  when  the  demolition  of  the 
town-walls  was  begun,  a  new  town  as  large  as  the  old  has  sprung  up 
outside  the  old  gates. 

A  broad  quay,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  busy  stream,  Ehren- 
breitstein,  and  the  Asterstein,  runs  along  the  side  of  the  town  next 
the  Rhine  to  the  ^Deutsche  Eck\  the  point  of  land  between  the 
Rhine  and  the  Moselle,  so  called  from  a  former  Teutonic  Lodge 
(^Deutschordenshaua ;  PI.  4),  now  occupied  by  the  provincial  archiveB. 
Upon  this  point,  which  is  now  about  12  ft.  above  the  normal  water- 
leyel,  rises  the  imposing  **Monument  of  Emp«  William  I.,  erected 
by  the  Province  of  the  Rhine  and  designed  by  Bruno  Sehmitz.  The 
copper  equestrian  figure  of  the  emperor,  45  ft.  in  height,  accom- 
panied by  a  Genius  (30  ft.  high)  bearing  the  laurel* wreathed  im- 
perial crown,  is  by  Emil  Hundrieser.  The  whole  is  supported  by  an 
architectural  basis  of  great  merit.  This  is  one  of  the  most  impressive 
purely  personal  monuments  in  the  world,  and  dominates  the  land- 
scape in  all  directions.  A  specially  fine  view  of  it  is  obtained  from 
the  steamers  ascending  the  river. 

The  Chnrch  of  St.  Castor,  founded  in  836,  dates  in  its  present 
form  chiefly  from  the  end  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  was  consecrated  in 
1208.  It  is  a  Romanesque  basilica  with  four  towers,  terminating  in 
a  semicircular  apse  adorned  with  a  gallery  of  small  columns,  and 
presents  a  picturesque  appearance  from  the  quay.  It  has  recently 
been  well  restored.  The  nave  is  roofed  with  rich  Gothic  groined 
vaulting,  which  was  substituted  in  1498  for  the  originally  flat  ceil- 
ing. To  the  right,  in  the  choir,  is  the  Gothic  Monument  of  Arch" 
hiahop  Kuno  von  FaUcenstein  (d.  1388;  see  p.  119). 

To  the  W.  of  the  church  stands  the  Oastob-Bextnnbn  (Br.  on 
Plan),  erected  in  1812  by  the  last  French  prefect  in  commemor- 
ation of  the  French  campaign  against  Russia.  The  Russian  general 
St.  Priest  with  exquisite  irony  added  the  words :  ^Vu  et  approuvS 
par  nous  Commandant Russe  de  lavillede  Cohlence.  Lel.jan.  1814\ 
--  The  Oastorpfaffen-Str.  leads  hence  to  the  S,  to  th^  Rhein-Str 

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108  BouUie.  GOBLENZ.  MoselU  Bridge, 

(see  below),  whence  it  is  oontinued  by  the  Garmelitei-Str.  to  the 
Olemens-Platz  (p.  109). 

In  the  middle  ages  and  until  the  Idth  cent.,  the  greater  part  of 
the  town  lay  on  the  Moselle ;  but  the  narrow,  orooked  streets  of 
that  period  which  are  still  extant  present  few  features  of  interest. 
The  FlorinS'Kirche  (PI  14),  of  the  12th  cent.,  with  Gothic  choir,  has 
been  used  as  a  Protestant  church  since  1818.  Adjacent  are  the  so- 
called  Kaufham  (PL  12),  bnilt  in  1479  as  a  town-haU  and  now  a 
school,  and  the  Schoffenhaus^  built  in  1530  and  fitted  up  in  1891  as 
a  museum,  containing  chiefly  Roman  and  Prankish  antiquities  (open 
free  on  Sun..  11.30-1 ;  at  other  times  on  application  to  the  custodian 
of  the  school).  A  flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  Moselle  Quay,  afford- 
ing a  good  view  of  the  pretty  oriel  window  of  the  Schoffenhaus.  — 
The  Church  of  Our  Lady^  or  Oberpfarr-Kirche  (PL  17),  finished  in 
1431,  with  Romanesque  nave  and  Gothic  choir,  marks  the  highest 
point  of  the  Roman  castrum. 

The  Mgff^lle  Bridge^  which  leads  to  Liitzel-Goblenz,  was  erected 
by  Elector  Baldwin  about  1344,  restored  in  1440,  and  widened  in 
1884.  It  commands  a  fine  view  of  Emp.  William's  Monument  and 
of  Ehrenbreitstein.  —  The  lofty  turreted  building  adjoining  the 
bridge  on  the  S.E.  is  the  ancient  Burg  (PL  1),  or  Electoral  Palace, 
built  in  1276,  and  recently  acquired  by  the  town  for  administrative 
offices.    The  entrance  is  in  the  Burg-Strasse,  on  the  S.  side. 

A  stone  spiral  staircasg.  dating  from  1557,  ascends  to  the  first  floor, 
on  which  TsTtiie  Muni'eipcifPi^ure  Gallery  (chiefly  Dutch  masters  of  inferior 
importance ;  open  free  on  Sun.  11-1,  at  other  times  25  pf.). 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle  here  are  the  houses  of  LUttel-Coblenz 
and  the  Petertherg^  an  eminence  crowned  by  Fort  Franz.  At  the  E.  base 
of  the  fort ,  1  M.  from  the  Moselle  bridge,  but  somewhat  difficult  to  find 
on  acconnt  of  the  construction  of  a  lart^e  goods-station,  risen  a  blunted 
pyramid  of  lava  to  the  memory  of  Oenerai  MarceaUf  who  fell  at  Alten- 
kirchen  in  1796,  with  a  long  French  inscription  Ctoldat  A  16  an»^  ff4neral 
d  22  ans'').  His  monument  and  remains  were  originally  on  the  hill,  but 
on  the  construction  of  the  fortificaUons  by  Fred.  William  III.  were  re- 
moved to  their  present  site.    Byron's  lines  — 

*By  Coblenz  on  a  gentle  rise  of  ground, 

There  is  a  small  and  simple  pyramid, 

Crowning  the  summit  of  the  verdant  mound  j 

Beneath  its  base  are  hero''s  ashes  hid. 

Our  enemy,  —  but  let  not  that  forbid 

Honour  to  Marceau!'  Ac. 
refer  to  the  monument  in  its  original  position.     In  1889  the  remains  of 
the  valiant  general  were  exhumed  and  transferred  to  the  Pantheon  at  Paris. 

The  busy  RnsiN-STaASSB  leads  from  the  river  to  the  Goebbn- 
Platz,  in  which  rises  a  Statne  of  General  von  Goeben  (1816-80), 
a  distinguished  commander  in  the  wars  of  1864,  1866,  and  1871. 
The  sculptor  was  Fr,  Schaper.  —  The  W.  continuation  of  the  Rhein- 
Str.  leads  to  the  small  Jesuiten-Platz,  with  the  StadthauSj  formerly 
a  Jesuit  College,  on  the  S.  side.  A  bronze  statue  in  this  square,  by 
TjQhues,  commemorates  Johannes  MuUer  (1801-58),  the  physiologist. 

The  Post-Strasse  leads  from  the  Goeben -Platz->paBt  the  Bott 

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Valace.  COBLENZ.  16.  Route.   109 

Office  (PI.  !2!2)  to  the  Clbmbns-Platz,  which  is  embellished  with 
an  ObelUky  oommemoiating  the  construction  in  1791  (hy  the  Elector 
Clemens  Wenceslaus)  of  the  first  aqueduct  supplying  the  town  with 
water.  —  The  road  to  the  E.  leads  to  the  Rhine  Promenade  (p.  109). 

Between  the  Glemens-Platz  and  the  site  of  the  former  Mainzer 
Thor,  to  the  S.,  extends  an  open  space,  known  as  the  Tarade- 
Platz',  planted  with  trees  and  flanked  on  the  E.  side  hy  the  former 
electoral  stables  (now  artillery-barracks)  and  the  palace. 

The  Palace,  a  large  building  with  a  lofty  Ionic  portico,  was 
erected  in  1778-86,  from  the  designs  of  the  French  architects 
Ixnard  and  Pei/r«,  for  Clemens  Wenceslaus  (p.  183),  last  Elector 
of  Treves,  and  occupied  by  him  till  1794. 

After  the  French  occupation  it  was  devoted  to  military  purposes.  Fred- 
erick Willian  IV.  of  Prussia  restored  it  in  '1842-45.  The  groundiloor  of 
the  S.  wing  was  assigned  us  the  official  residence  of  the  civil  goremor  of 
the  Rhine  province.  In  185(Wi8  it  was  occupied  by  the  Prince  of  Prussia 
(afterwards  Emp.  William  I.)  when  military  governor  of  the  Rhine  province 
and  Westphalia.  The  Empress  Augusta  annually  spent  a  part  of  spring  and 
autumn  here  until  her  death  in  1890. 

The  RoTAL  Apartments  are  on  the  first  floor  (visitors  ring  for  the 
castellan  in  the  lower  corridor  of  the  N.  wing) ;  open  on  weekdays  10-6  A 
Sun.  11-6  (in  winter  till  4),  adm.  25  pf.,  free  on  Sun.  and  Wed.  before  1  p.m. 
The  ceiling  painting  (Night  and  Homing)  in  the  Reception  Room  is  one  of  the 
chief  works  of  Januarius  Zick  (1783-97),  court- painter  to  the  Elector  of 
Treves.  The  Gobelins  Room  contains  tapestry  said  to  have  been  presented 
by  Louis  XVI.  to  Frederick  the  Great.  In  the  Eleeton'  Room  are  portraits 
of  Electors  of  Treves,  from  Richard  von  Greififenklau  (1511-81)  to  Clemens 
Wenceslaus  (176S-1802);  also  memorials  of  various  kinds  from  ttie  period  of 
the  electors  and  later. 

Near  the  site  of  the  old  Mainzer  Thor,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
street,  rises  the  Stddtische  Festhalle  (1901),  with  an  elegant  caf^- 
lestaurant  on  the  groundfloor,  a  concert-hall,  and  extensive  wine- 
cellars.  To  the  right  begins  the  broad  new  Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring, 
which  ends  at  the  old  Lohr-Thor,  beside  the  new  Herz-Jesu-Kirche, 
—  To  the  left  is  the  approach  to  the  pfaffendorf  Bridgg  over  the 
Rhine,  built  in  1862-64,  an  elegant  structure  or  three  Iron  arches, 
each  with  a  span  of  106  yds.,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  (toll 
2  pf.).  Originally  a  railway-bridge,  the  structure  is  now  used  only 
for  ordinary  foot  and  carriage  traffic  and  for  the  electric  tramway 
(p.  106).   A  flight  of  steps  descends  to  the  Rhine  Promenade. 

The  new  quarters  of  the  town  begin  beyond  the  Festhalle.  The 
Mainzeb-Strassb  (electric  tramway),  the  main  artery  of  traffic,  is 
flanked  with  tasteful  villas  and  other  houses  and  passes  the  Roman 
Catholic  church  of  St.  Joseph,  built  in  1896-98.  The  side-streets 
on  the  left  lead  to  the  Rhine  Promenade. 

The  beautiful  *  Rhine  YTomeTULdejRhein-AnlagenJ^  extending 
along  the  river,  to  the  ^.  ol  tne  Jinine  quay  (p.  107),  for  about  1 1/2  M., 
and  passing  behind  the  palace,  was  tastefully  laid  out  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Empress  Augusta  (d.  1890).  Immediately  above  the 
passage  under  the  Pfaffendorf  Bridge  (accessible  hence  by  a  lofty 
Iron  ftaircase,  see  above)  is  a  bust  of  the  poet  Max  von  Schenkendorf 

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110  Route  16.  COBLENZ.  Environs 

(b.  1783),  who  died  at  Coblenz  in  1817.  Farther  to  the  S.  is  the 
Trinkfialle  (p.  106),  which  contains  a  few  memorials  of  the  Empress 
Augusta.  A  route  leads  hence  direct  to  the  Central  Railway  Station. 
An  inscription  records  the  enthusiastic  reception  which  the  King 
and  Queen  of  Prussia  received  here  in  July,  1870,  after  the  events 
at  Ems  which  led  to  the  outbreak  of  war  with  France.  A  little 
farther  on  is  the  tasteful  *Monument  to  the  Empress  Augusta,  with 
a  statue  by  K.  F.  Moest.  Behind  is  a  station  (Pappelrondell)  of  the 
electric  tramway  (p.  106). 

The  grounds  end  opposite  the  island  of  Oberwerth  (p.  112),  at  the 
point  where  the  Berlin  and  Metz  railway  crosses  the  arm  of  the  river 
between  the  island  and  the  mainland  by  an  embankment.  The 
Horchheim  Railway  Bridi|[e.  which  spans  the  wider  arm  of  the 
river,  between  Oberwerth  and  the  E.  bank,  was  constructed  by 
Altenloh  in  1877-79,  and  is  1300  ft.  long.  It  consists  of  three  wide 
brick  arches,  and  of  two  light  and  elegant  iron  arches,  each  with  a 
span  of  350  ft.  Except  at  night  and  in  dense  fog,  it  is  open  to 
pedestrians,  who  enjoy  from  it  an  admirable  *View  in  all  directions. 

The  bridge  reaches  the  E.  bank  IV2  M.  above  the  bridge-of-boats  at 
Coblenz.  —  The  railway-station  of  Horchheim  (p.  113)  is  situated  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  village,  1/2  M.  from  the  bridge. 

Beyond  the  embankment,  about  1^/4  M.  from  the  former  Mainzer 
Thor  (p.  109)  by  the  Mainzer-Str.,  is  the  mouth  of  the  small  valley 
of  the  Lauhhach  (comp.  the  Maps,  pp.  105, 112),  in  which  is  a  health- 
resort.  A  road,  ascending  to  the  left  at'  the  entrance  to  the  valley  by 
the  Oeisenkopfcfien,  leads  in  25  min.  to  the  Rittersturz,  which  may 
also  be  reached  in  Y4  hr.  by  a  shorter  footpath  diverging  to  the  left 
The  *Bitter8tiirz,  a  hill  laid  out  with  promenades  (restaurant  and 
tower),  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein, 
Lahneck,  Marksburg,  and  Stolzenfels. 

The  walk  may  be  prolonged  to  the  S.,  either  to  the  right  to  the  top 
of  the  Eiihkopf  (see  below),  or  to  the  left  along  the  slope  to  the  (20  min.) 
*Dommelberg,  with  a  platform  commanding  a  finer  view  than  that  from 
the  Bittersturz.  Three  prehistoric  stone  circles  on  the  slope  ot  the  Dommel- 
berg  and  other  discoveries  point  to  the  existence  in  this  neighbourhood  of 
a  considerable  Celtic  settlement,  which  remained  until  the  Roman  period. 

The  summit  of  the  Eiihkopf  (1230  ft.)  is  reached  from  the  Bittersturz 
in  */4  hr.  by  following  the  above-mentioned  path  through  wood,  finally 
crossing  the  HunsrtLck  road  (IV4  hr.  from  Coblenz).  It  commands  a  beau- 
tiful and  extensive  view  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle,  with  the  volcanic 
summits  of  the  Eifel  (left),  and  the  mountains  enclosing  the  valley  of  the 
Rhine.  —  Prom  the  Eiihkopf  we  reach  Capellen  (p.  112)  in  1  hr.  by  re- 
turning to  the  Hunsriick  road,  following  it  to  the  right  for  a  short  distance, 
and  then  diverging  to  the  left  by  the  road  (guide-post)  passing  Schloss 
Stolzenfels  (p.  113).  A  surprising  number  of  Celtic  and  Roman  remains 
have  been  discovered  on  the  *Pastors-Pfad^  (path  from  Capellen  to  Waldesch). 
which  crosses  the  last-mentioned  road.  Among4]iese  are  distinct  traces  01 
a  temple  of  Mercury ;  the  hand  of  the  colossal  statue,  with  tortoise  and 
serpent,  is  preserved  in  Schloss  Stolzenfels.  —  Winningen  (p.  191)  is  reached 
from  the  Eiihkopf  via  Renutecien  and  the  Conder-Thal  in  IV2  hr. 

The  Karthause  (so  named  from  an  ancient  Carthusian  monastery), 
a  hm  rising  to  the  W.  of  the  CerUrctl  Station,  is  crowned  by  forti- 

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of  Collenz.  EHRENBKEITSTEIN.  16,  Route,   111 

flcations.   On  its  N.  slope  is  the  picturesque  Cemetery^  where  repose 
the  remains  of  Max  vonSehenkendorf  (p.  109),  Karl  Backer  (1801-  * 
59  J  on  the  slope  above  the  chapel),  and  Gen.  von  Ooeben  (p.  108). 

Ehrenbreitfltein  and  Asterstein. 

YUitors,  foreign  officers  excepted,  are  admitted  to  the  fortress  of 
Bhrenbreitstein  between  April  1st  and  Kov.  16th.  The  walk  from  Coblenz  to 
the  summit  and  ba^k  takes  2  hrs.;  carriages  can  ascend  to  the  top  (p.  106). 

The  excursion  to  the  Nellenkopf  (p.  112)  requires  about  2V2-3  hrs.  (there 
and  back),  the  visit  to  the  Aiterstein  (p.  112)  IV4  hr.  No  permissioif  ne- 
cessary for  either. 

Ehrenbreitstein  is  a  station  of  the  Bailway  of  the  Bight  Bank  (p.  94). 
—  Electric  Tramways  (main  station  near  the  railway-station  and  the  pier 
of  the  Coblenz  steamboats ,  p.  106)  run  to  Vallendar  (p.  94),  Niederlahn- 
atein  (p.  106),  Arenburg  (p.  112),  and  also  via  the  Pfaffendorf  Bridge  to 
Coblenz  (p.  106). 

A  Bfidge-of -Boats  (toll  2  pf.,  one-horse  carr.  22,  two -horse 
29  pf.),  about  400  yds.  in  length,  connects  Coblenz  with  iChal-Ehren- 
breitstein,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine.  As  the  bridge  is  often 
opened  to  allow  vessels  to  pass,  passengers  in  a  hurry  to  reach  the 
station  of  the  Right  Rhenish  Railway  will  generally  do  better  to  take 
the  steam-ferry  (p.  106).  The  bridge  affords  a  charming  promenade 
in  the  morning  and  evening. 

^3&^^£li£QS^i:£itstei9.(£rdt.  zumKwpiriten^  with  restaurant,  very 
fair,  R/2-3  Ulf,^.  75  pf.)  is  a  small  town  with  5300  inhab.,  prettily 
situated  in  a  valley  between  the  Ehrenbreitstein  and  Asterstein. 
The  Kirch- Strasae^  beginning  at  the  bridge,  ascends  to  the  Schutzen- 
burg,  a  castellated  modem  villa.  —  In  the  Hof-Straaae^  to  the  left, 
is  the  Kurfursten  Hotel,  once  occupied  by  M.  de  La  Roche,  chancellor 
of  the  electorate  of  Treves,  to  whom  Goethe  paid  a  visit  in  •J1774. 
The  tramway-station  is  close  by.  Farther  on  are  theRttilway  Station 
(left)  and  the  large  court  of  justice  and  residence  (right),  erected 
by  the  Electors  in  1747,  now  in  part  a  Provision  Magazine  (PI.  27). 

About  200  yds.  beyond  the  railway-station  we  diverge  to  the 
right  from  the  road  descending  the  Rhine  and  ascend  the  hill  ( V4  hr.), 
where,  at  the  last  gateway,  the  cards  of  admission  are  issued  (50  pf.). 
Visitors  are  conducted  to  the  point  of  Tiew  by  a  sergeant. 

The  *Fortre8i,oi  Ehrenbreitateyi  rises  opposite  the  influx  of  the 
Moselle,  385  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  on  a  precipitous  rock,  which  is 
connected  with  the  neighbouring  heights  on  the  N.  side  only.  The 
view  embraces  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Rhine  from  Stolzenfels  to 
Andernach,  and  the  volcanic  peaks  of  the  Maifeld  and  the  Eifel 
(p.  102).  Far  below  are  the  Rhine  and  Moselle,  and  between  them 
the  Emp.  William  Monument  and  the  triangular  town  of  Coblenz.  — 
The  present  fortress,  built  in  1816-26  by  (jeneral  von  Aster,  succeeds 
a  very  ancient  stronghold  of  the  Electors  of  Treves,  which  was  fre- 
quently enlarged  in  the  course  of  centuries.  It  played  an  important 
part  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  and  in  1799  it  was  taken  by  the 
French  after  a  gallant  resistance.  ^  I 

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112  RouU  16.  ASTEBSTEIN. 

A  more  imposing  (though  not  so  easily  accessible)  view  is  com- 
manded by  the  Nellenkopf ,  the  N.  spur  of  the  Ehrenbreitstein  plateau, 
which  may  be  reached  by  following  the  Charlotten-Strasse  and  ascending 
the  valley  to  the  back  of  Ehrenbreitstein ,  farther  on  (at  the  kilometre- 
stone  No.  1)  to  the  left,  past  Neudor/;  at  the  top,  we  cross  the  drill- 
ground  to  the  open  space  in  front  of  the  fort  (about  >/4  hr.  from  the 
bridge-of-boats).  —  For  the  return,  we  may  choose  the  pleasant  walk  via 
(30  min.)  Urbar  (Moskopp's  Inn,  with  view  of  the  Rhine  valley  and  the 
Eifel  hills),  whence  we  descend  to  the  road  skirting  the  Rhine  (to  Ehren- 
breitstein, 72  lir.).  • 

Tort  AflterBtein,  situated  on  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  Ehienhreitstein, 
also  commands  a  fine  view.  A  projecting  teirace  towards  the  Rhine 
bears  an  Obelisk  in  memory  of  the  soldiers  of  the  8th  army-corps 
who  fell  in  the  campaign  of  1866. 

The  hill  on  which  the  obelisk  stands  may  be  reached  in  20  min.  from  the 
bridge-of-boats.  After  crossing  the  latter  we  proceed  in  a  straight  direction 
to  the  end  of  the  Eirch-Strasse  (p.  Ill)  and  follow  the  road  to  the  right 
below  the  SchtLtsenbux^  (p.  ill).  Where  the  road  turns  to  the  left,  a 
shorter  route  ascends  by  the  steps  to  the  right,  crosses  the  road  which 
leads  up  from  the  ^Promenade',  and  again  ascends  by  steps.  Halfway  up, 
the  Ca/i  Jtheinlmt,  and  beyond  it  the  Luisenthnrm  are  passed.  We  then 
follow  the  road  to  the  summit.  —  A  road  descends  to  the  left  to  Pfaflfen- 
dorf,  intersecting  the  fortification  on  the  Olockmherg.  We  may  follow  the 
footpath  diverging  from  it  on  the  right,  beyond  the  Victoria- Garten  (garden- 
restaurant),  and  then  descend  the  steps. 

The  road  which  ascends  the  valley  at  the  back  of  the  fortress  of 
Ehrenbreitstein  leads  by  Niederberg  to  (2Vs  M.)  Arenberg  (Rother  Hahn^ 
with  belvedere*,  Schdne  Atuticht),  a  village  with  a  large  new  pilgrimage- 
church,  a  'Herz-Jesu*  chapel,  a  ^Mount  of  Olives*,  etc.,  reached  by  electric 
tramway  (p.  Ill)  in  20  minutes.  —  At  IfeuMusa,  3  M.  farther  on,  by  the 
Uontabaur  road,  a  prehistoric  settlement  was  unearthed  in  1899-1901.  — 
The  road  diverging  to  the  right  beyond  Arenberg  passes  a  forester^s  house 
(rfmts.)  and  leads  to  (4Vs  M.)  Ems  (p.  212). 

^^/ziSlf^y^T^'^  17.  The  Rhinefagm  Coblenz  to  Mayence. 

Steamboat  in  7V2  (down  in  41/4)  hrs. ;  piers  at  Oberlahnstein,  Boppard, 
St.  Goar,  Bingen.  Biidesheim,  Eltville,  and  Biebrich^  small-boat  stations 
Capellen,  Braubach,  Camp,  Hirzenach^berwesel,  Gaub,  Bacharach,  Lorch, 
Geisenheim,  Oestrich,  and  Walluf.  —  From  Goblenz  to  Bingen  both  banks 
are  Prussian. 

Distances:  Coblenz  to  Capellen  4,  Rhens  2,  Niederspai  (opposite 
Braubach)  IV2,  Boppard  4Vs,  Salzig  3,  Hirzenach  2V4,  St.  Goar  3»/4,  Ober- 
wesel  5Va,  Caub  3,  Bacharach  1V«,  Rheindiebach  !>/«,  Lorch  (Uiederheim- 
bach)  V4,  Rheinstein  3»/4,  Bingen  3,  Geisenheim  3,  Oestrich  3,  Eltville  4, 
Walluf  3,  Biebrich  2,  Mayence  4,  total  distance  59  M.  —  Railwat  on 
the  Left  Bank,  see  R.  19 ;  on  the  Right  Bank  by  Oberlahnstein  and  Riidesheim 
to  Wiesbaden  in  2>/4-3Vs  hrs.,  see  R.  20.  —  Oomp.  p.  68. 

Beyond  the  bridge-of-boats  the  steamer  passes  the  palace  on  the 
right,  and  then  steers  under  the  old  Bridge  (p.  109).  On  the  right 
extend  the  beautiful  promenades  of  the  W.  bank,  opposite  which  is 
the  picturesque  village  of  Pfaffendprf  (Bheinhof,  with  garden,  R.2-3, 
pens.  41/2-6  Jf),  8/4  M.  from  the  station  of  Ehrenbreitstein  (local 
steamer  to  Ooblenz,  see  p.  106). 

On  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  lies  the  island  of  Obenverth, 
which  is  connected  with  the  W.  bank  by  an  embankment  and  with 
the  E.  by  the  HorchheUn^ai^tofl^  Bridge  (p.  110),  below  which  the 

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STOLZENFELS.  17.  Route.     113 

steamer  passes.  Beautiful  retTOspect  as  the  vessel  passes  the  upper 
end  of  the  islaud.  To  the  right  are  the  tower  on  the  Bitterstun 
(p.  110)  and  the  view-platform  on  the  Dommelberg^  behind  which 
rises  the  wooded  Kuhkopf{ip.  110). 

The  vineyards  of  (1.)  goroj^i^l)^  (Holler's  Garden  Restaurant) 
produce  good  red  wine ;  the  plain  between  this  village  and  th^-mouth 
of  the  Lahn  is  remarkably  fertile.  —  (1.)  NICflfTM^rt**^"  (^Douquij 
on  the  Lahn,  with  garden,  R.  &  B.  2-21/2,  pens.  4-41/2  Jf^  good 
cuisine ;  Sartori,  also  on  the  Lahn ;  Strassburger^  at  the  station), 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn  (4200  inhab.),  is  the  junction  of  the 
Railway  of  the  Right  Bank,  the  line  to  Ooblenz,  and  the  Lahn  railway 
(RR.  20,  27),  but  is  not  touched  at  by  the  steamer.  From  the  road 
ascending  the  Lahnthal  a  path  diverges  to  the  left,  passing  several 
shrines,  to  (^2  ^^0  ^^^  memorial  church  on  the  top  of  the  Alter- 
heiligen-Berg,  which  commands  fine  views  of  the  valleys  of  the  Lahn 
and  the  Rhine.  Below  Nlederlahnstein,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lahn, 
stands  the  solitary  late -Romanesque  Church  of  St.  John^  partly 
destroyed  during  the  Thirty  Years*  War.  The  Lahn  is  crossed  near 
its  mouth  by  an  unsightly  railway-bridge,  and  by  another  for  the 
traffic  of  the  road  (toll  2  pf.). 

r.  Capellen.  —  Hotels.  *BBLLsyDE,  with  garden,  B.  2Vs-4,  B.  1,  D.  3, 
pens.  6-8  rif.*  ^'Stolzbvfels,  similar  charges*,  Lahitbck,  B.  from  iVz,  pens, 
from  41/3  Ul,  well  spoken  of. 

Donkey  to  the  Castle  of  Stolzenfels  80pf.{  there  and  back  1  UT  aOpf. 

Local  Steamboat  to  Oberlahnstein  (20,  10  pf.),  starting  above  the 
ftation;  to  Goblens,  see  p.  106. 

£leetric  Tramway  to  Coblens,  see  p.  106. 

f^^He^Sa^  &  village  consisting  of  a  single  row  of  houses  facing 
the  railway-embankment  and  the  river,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  wood- 
ed hill  which  bears  the  royal  chUeau  of  Stolzenfels.  The  chllteau 
is  approached  by  a  winding  road  of  easy  ascent  (1/4  hr.),  crossing  a 
viaduct.  Beyond  the  Klause  (stables),  a  drawbridge  is  crossed  and 
the  castle  entered. 

The  *C^stle^^^StcaM  (310  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  with  a 

pentagonaTtoweTlWft.  higb,  was  built  on  the  site  of  an  older  for- 
tress by  Arnold  von  Isenburg,  ArchbislKTJT  of  Treves,  in  1242-59, 
and  was  frequently  a  residence  of  the  archbishops.  In  1689  it  was 
destroyed  by  the  French .  Frederick  William  IV. ,  when  crown-prince, 
caused  it  to  be  rebuilt  in  1836-42  from  the  designs  of  Schinkelj 
StiUerj  and  Peraius,  and  embellished  in  the  romantic  taste  of  the 
period.  It  now  belongs  to  £mp.  William  n.,  and  is  open  to  visitors 
from  10  to  12  and  from  2  to  7  (adm.  25  pf.). 

On  entering  the  court,  we  turn  to  the  right  to  the  tower  at  the  S.  angle. 
While  waiting  for  a  party  to  assemble  we  eigoy  a  magnificent  "View, 
extending  from  the  Harkfburg  to  beyond  Goblens;  in  front  are  the  two 
Lahnf teins  and  the  Castle  of  Lahneck.  —  Among  the  frescoes  in  the  interior 
maj  be  mentioned  those  in  the  Chapel  (Biblical  scenes)  by  E.  Deaer 
(18o3-67;  p.  72),  and  those  in  the  Kleine  Rittersaal,  by  Stilke  (1842-46), 
illustrative  of  the  principal  attributes  of  chivalry.  There  are  also  numerous 
other  ancient  and  modern  works  of  art. 

BABDBKBE*g  Rhine.     15th  Edit.  DgtzedbyfeiOOgle 


114   Route  17,  OBERLAHNSTEIN.  From  Cohlens 

About  2  M.  above  Stolzenfels  a  patb  diverges  to  the  rigbt  from  the 
Sehlossweg,  leading  to  the  Augusta- Hdhe  and  O/s  M.  farther)  the  top  of  the 
Sasenberg^  two  points  (refage-huts)  commanding  a  fine  view  of  Stoljcen- 
fels  and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  (there  and  back  1V4-3  hrs.)-  From  the 
Hasenberg  we  may  proceed  through  the  Sieohenhaus-Thal  to  the  highroad 
on  the  Bhine  or  go  on  to  the  Dommelberg  and  Bittersturz  (p.  110). 

1.  ft]yArln.hTiat.A|p  f9.0f>  ft,  •'*^6tel' Pension  Weller,  with  garden 
and  view,  R.  2-3,  b!  1,  D.  2-21/2,  pens.  5-6  Jf;  Hdt.  Breitenbach, 
well  spoken  of;  Einhdrn^nt  the  station,  plain ;  steamboat  14-20  times 
daily  to  Gapellen,  20  or  10  pf. ;  steamer  to  Coblenz,  see  p.  106),  a 
thriving  town  with  7900  inhab. ,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Electors 
of  Mayence,  is  mentioned  in  a  charter  as  early  as  890.  Several 
towers  recall  the  former  fortifications.  Schlosa  Martinsburg  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  town,  containing  an  interesting  court,  once  a 
residence  of  the  Electors  of  Mayence,  dates  from  1394;  the  new 
part  was  built  in  1712.  The  old  Raihhaua  is  a  noteworthy  late- 
Gothic  half-timbered  edifice.  The  Protestant  Church,  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  town,  was  built  by  Zais  in  1872-75.  Oberlahnstein  is  a 
busy  depdt  of  the  iron-ores  yielded  by  the  mines  on  the  Lahn  (comp. 
p.  212),  and  possesses  a  large  harbour.  It  is  the  steamboat-station 
for  Ems  (p.  212),  which  may  be  reached  hence  either  by  the  main 
line  via  Niederlahnstein  (p.  113),  or  by  the  older  line  (slow  trains 
only)  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn.   The  station  is  close  to  the  quay. 

On  a  rocky  eminence  behind  Oberlahnstein  rises  the  picturesque 
castle  of  Lahnecky  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  1224,  destroyed 
by  the  Fr*encK"uri689,  and  restored  since  1860  (visitors  admitted 
in  the  owner's  absence).  The  pentagonal  pinnacled  tower  commands 
a  charming  view,  for  which  the  morning  light  is  most  favourable. 
On  seeing  the  ruin  in  1774  Goethe  composed  his  exquisite  'Geistes- 
GruBs\  A  road  and  two  footpaths  ascend  to  the  castle ;  one  of  the 
paths,  destitute  of  shade,  mounts  direct  from  Oberlahnstein,  the 
other  from  the  side  next  the  Lahn,  beginning  opposite  the  upper, 
end  of  Niederlahnstein  (p.  113). 

About  IV4  M.  above  Capellen,  between  the  highroad  and  the 
Rhine,  is  the  KgnigsBtuhl  ('king's  seat'),  erected  in  1376  by  the 
Emp.  Charles  Iv.  on  the^ite  of  an  ancient  meeting-place  of  the 
Electors.  At  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  it  had  fallen  to  decay,  but  in 
1843  it  was  rebuilt,  partly  out  of  the  old  materials.  The  structure 
is  octagonal  in  shape,  somewhat  resembling  a  pulpit,  22  ft.  in 
f  diameter,  and  18  ft.  in  height.  The  Electors  held  their  meetings 
on  the  stone  seat  on  the  top.  The  situation  was  chosen  from  its 
proximity  to  the  dominions  of  the  three  ecclesiastical  Rhenish  Elec- 
tors, Rhens  belonging  to  Cologne,  Capellen  to  Treves,  and  Lahnstein 
to  Mayence,  while  the  territories  of  the  Electors  Palatine  began  at 
Oaub  (p.  123).  Here  many  emperors  were  elected,  decrees  issued, 
>  and  treaties  concluded.  Near  the  Konigsstuhl  is  the  Rhenser  Mineral- 
quelle,  a  mineral  spring  rising  in  the  bed  of  the  Rhine ,  which  was 
known  in  the  18th  cent,  and  re-discovered  va  1857 ;  the  water  re- 


ioMayenct.  BRAUBACH.  17,  Routt,    115 

BembleB  that  of  Selterg  and  is  used  as  a  table  beverage  as  well  as 
medicinally.  Tbe  new  quay  has  been  pushed  out  into  the  rivei  as 
far  as  the  spring.  i/t^ 

On  the  feftile  bank  of  the  Bhine  opposite  the  Eonigsstuhl,  &>.  £S>iU^\ 
wT^i^A  i^hapAl,  near  the  8.  gate  of  Oberlahnstein,  is  visible  amonfe~the  l 
trees,  wliere,  on  20th  Aug.,  1400,  the  Rhenish  Electors  deprired  the  Bohe-  I 
mian  king  Wenzel  of  the  imperial  crown.  On  the  following  day  they  / 
erosMd  to  the  Eonigsstnhl,  and  elected  Count  Palatine  Bnpertin.  emperor  y 
in  hif  stead.    Adjacent  are  two  mineral  springs. 

Above  the  Konigsstnhl  (3/4  M.)  lies  the  small  town  of  (r.)](Uifim^ 
(KonigBsiuhl^  with  garden,  on  the  riyer),  still  surrounded  by  the  walls 
and  fosses  constructed  in  1370  by  Archbishop  Frederick  III.  of  Co- 
logne. On  the  highroad,  near  the  S.  gate,  are  several  old  hcyjf- 
t|mbered  houses,  almost  in  their  original  condition.  Outside  this 
gate  lies  the  prettily  situated  church.  A  footpath  to  (1 1/4  hr.)  Bop- 
pard  ascends  hence  to  the  right  at  the  way-post,  outside  the  S.  gate 
(comp.  p.  117).  —  Beyond  a  cotton-factory  with  a  tall  chimney,  we 
next  pass  the  small  village  of  (r.)  Brey,  surrounded  by  fruit-trees. 

1.  Brauba^  {Kaiterhof^  with  veranda  and  view,  on  the  Rhine, 
R.  2-4,  B.  3/4,  pens.  4-5  uf,  new,  very  fair;  Deutsehea  Haus,  with 
beer-garden,  near  the  station;  Bheinischer  Hofj  with  garden  and 
view  of  the  Rhine,  pens,  from  SVtUff;  NcuaauerHof,  R.  lY2'2ufir; 
local  steamboat  to  Oberlahnstein,  Gapellen,  andCoblenz,  see  p.  106), 
an  ancient  town  with  2200  inhab.,  the  once  picturesque  appearance 
of  which  has  been  marred  by  the  railway.  It  is  commanded  by  the 
imposing  castle  of  *MMrt8biirg,  485  ft.  above  the  river,  the  only 
old  fortress  on  the  Rhine  whiS  has  escaped  destruction. 

In  1437  Count  Philip  of  Eatsenelnbogen  founded  a  chapel  in  the  castle 
and  dedicated  it  to  St.  Mark,  after  whom  the  castle  has  since  bcan^wamed. 
"Hit  belonged  to  Hesse-Darmstadt  from  1661  to  1803,  and  was  then  used 
by  the  government  of  Nassau  as  a  state-prison  down  to  1866.  It  is  now 
the  property  of  the  Society  for  the  Preservation  of  German  Castles,  by 
whom  it  is  being  restored  (tickets  of  admission,  26  pf.,  at  the  restaurant 
at  the  entrance).  The  tower  afiords  a  pleasing  survey  of  the  grassy  dales 
at  the  back,  and  of  a  portion  of  the  Rhine. 

Two  routes  ascend  to  the  fortress :  to  the  N.  a  footpath,  shorter 
but  steeper  than  the  other,  beginning  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town, 
beyond  the  old  church  (25  min.) ;  to  the  S.  the  road,  leading  at  first 
to  the  left  through  the  town  in  the  direction  of  Nastatten,  then  to 
the  right  past  the  ancient  Chapel  of  St,  Martin,  and  lastly  round  the 
E.  side  of  the  hUl  (35  min.).  ^ 

Fbom  Bbaubach  to  Nastatten,  171/2  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway  in 
1^4  hr.  The  line  (opened  in  1902),  beginning  at  the  silver  foundries  with 
the  conspicuous  chimneys,  ascends  the  right  bank  of  the  Zollhaeh  to  Hof- 
ZollgruM  (p.  216)  and  beyond  a  bold  viaduct  mounts  in  wide  curves  (views 
to  the  right)  vi&  Bechetn  and  Sinterwald  to  Daohseahauaen  (1250  ft.),  pic- 
turesquely situated  near  the  Dachskopf  (1500  ft.).  Fine  survey  from  the 
latter  and  also  from  the  HeUebdvmehen  (1315  ft ),  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
station.  —  Thence  the  railway  descends  through  the  Bachheimer  Grundy  via 
WinUrwerb,  Oemmeric\  and  Ehr^  to  Marien/el»  (705  ft. ;  with  a  mineral 
spring),  in  the  fertile  MUMbaeh-Thal  (p.  121).  We  then  ascend  the  last- 
n^med  valley  to  the  S.W.,  via  Miehlen  (725  ft.).  —  Natmten^  and  thence  to 
St.  Goarshausen  or  Zollhaus,  see  p.  121.  DgtzedbyGoOglc 


116  Route  17.  BOPPARD.  From  CoUem 

Above  Braubaoh  are  the  (r.)  villages  of  Niederapay  and  Ojjui^y 
(Rindsfusser),  connected  by  an  avenue  of  ^alnnf-trees.  On  the 
promontory  to  the  right  stands  a  half-ruined  chapel,  the  only  relic 

.-oi^the  village  of  Peter  spay.  —  On  the  left,  V2  ^'  ahove  Braubach, 
opens  the  iHrikholder-Thaly  with  several  mills  and  a  chalybeate 
spring  (Dinkholder  Brunnen)  resembling  those  of  Schwalbach. 

On  the  wooded  height  above  (1.)  Osterspay  (Muller;  Anker)  stands 
the  chateau  of  Liebeneckj  belonging  to  the  Baroness  von  Preuschen, 

•one  of  the  prettiest  spots  on  the  Rhine.  —  On  the  hill  to  the  right, 
a  little  above  Osterspay,  stands  the  Jaeobsberger  Hof,  a  farmhouse 
520  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  whence  a  cart-road  leads  to  Rhens  (p.  115), 
S^ftr  distanty'^utting  off  the  circuit  of  6  M.  formed  by  the  river.  The 

1  ▼ineyards  on  the  slopes  of  the  left  bank,  known  as  the  Bo;pj^arder 

I  Hamm,  produce  excellent  wine.  Then,  on  the  left,  the  Filser  Ley, 
with  a  view-temple,  and  the  village  of  Filsen, 

r.  Boppaxd.  —  Hotels.  On  the  Rhine:  *Spibgbl,  E.  2-3V2,  D.  2V2-3, 
pens.  M  Jt;  •Bellevdb  A  Rhein-H6tel,  with  garden,  E.  2Vr3V2>  B.  1, 
D.  2Va,  pens.  5-7  Jt;  Hibsch,  E.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2Vs,  pens.  5-T^L..^kbbmann, 
plain  but  good-,  Salm,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  pensTTS  Jf,  plain.  — 
In  the  town  :  ^Gloshann,  an  old-established  and  unpretending  house,  with 
garden;  Lange,  opposite  the  post-office;  I^assaubb  Hof,  commercial.  — 
M6HLBAD,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  a  family  hotel,  E.  2V2-3Vs)  B.  V4, 
D.  2,  pens.  5-8  Jt  (closed  in  winter).  —  HenzUr^t  Pension ^  in  the  Hiihl- 
thal,  ^  M  per  week.  —  Marienberff  Hydropathic  Eitdblishment  (p.  117), 
pens.  6V2-I3  Jf  per  day.  —  Wine  at  the  Wimer-VerHn,  Ghristgasse. 

Local  Steamer  to  Camp  (p.  118),  in  connection  with  all  trains  on  the 
railway  of  the  right  bank.  ,   ,  _      __^ 

English  Church  Sendee  in  summer  at  fhe  Ehein-Hotel. 

Jgo^par (i/210  ft.\  the  ancient  godofcri^a,  founded  by  the  Celts 
was  afterwards  fortified  by  the  Romans  and  used  as  a  dep6t  for  thei^ 
^slingers'  ('Balistarii  Bodobricae*).  In  the  12th  cent.  Boppard  was 
a  free  imperial  town,  but  in  1312  £mp.  Henry  VII.  ceded  it,  along 
with  Oberwesel ,  to  his  brother  Elector  Baldwin  of  Treves.  The 
latter,  who  could  not  make  himself  master  of  the  town  till  1318, 
built  the  castle,  which  is  still  preserved  (p.  117).  All  efforts  of 
the  inhabitants  to  regain  their  independence  proved  henceforth 
unavailing.  Numerous  villas  have  sprung  up  in  the  environs,  and 
the  town  is  much  frequented  by  summer- visitors.  The  old  town  is 
still  partly  surrounded  by  the  mediasval  fortifications.    Pop.  5800. 

The  handsome^arrfeifcfee,  in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  found- 
ed early  in  the  12th  cenfTJand  rebuilt  about  1200,  with  Its  two 
square  towers  adjacent  to  the  choir,  is  remarkable  for  the  peculiar 
*Norman'  vaulting  of  the  nave.  The  contemporary  painted  decora- 
tion of  the  interior  (on  the  N.  side,  the  legend  of  St.  Severus)  was 
carefully  restored  in  1894-95 ;  the  decoration  of  the  choir  is  modern. 
—  The  Carmeliter-Kirche  (1318),  in  the  pointed  style,  contains  the 
marble  monument  of  a  Countess  von  Eltz  (d»  1509),  carved  stalls  of 
the  15th  cent.,  and  old  mural  paintings;  beside  the  3rd  pillar  is  a 
Christian  tombstone  of  the  7th  century.  ^  j 

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to  Mayence.  BOPPARD.  17.  Route.   117 

In  an  open  space  on  the  Rhine^  to  the  E.  of  the  church  and  near 
the  ferry,  risea  the  old  Castle  of  the  Archbishops  of  Treves,  with  a 
tower,  now  occupied  by  law-courts.  Beside  the  moat,  behind  the 
castle,  are  considerable  remains  of  a  Wall  construoted.  of  Roman 
concrete  ('opus  spicatum'),  and  probably  dating  from  the  reign  of 
Valentinlan  I.  (A.D.  364-75).  When  complete  it  was  10  ft.  thick 
and  26  ft.  high,  and  was  strengthened  with  towers  at  the  angles 
and  24  semicircular  towers  along  its  sides,  and  enclosed  the  interior 
of  the  town,  in  the  form  of  a  rectangle  1000  ft.  long  by  500  ft.  wide 
The  original  positions  of  the  four  gates,  each  exactly  in  the  centre 
of  one  of  the  sides,  are  indicated  by  tablets  on  the  houses  No.  78 
Obei^-Strasse  (W.),  47  Ober-Str.  (E.),  12  Kronengasse  (W.),  and  7 
Kirchgasse  (S.). 

The  suppressed  Franciscan  Monastery  with  its  church,  at  the  up- 
per end  of  the  town,  has  been  converted  into  a  seminary  for  Roman 
Catholic  teachers.  —  Knights  Templar  of  Boppard  are  mentioned 
among  the  crusaders  at  the  siege  of  Ptelemais  (ll^)y  <fcnd-fragments 
of  their  Lodge,  with  round-arched  windows,  lie  in  a  neighbouring 
side-street.  —  The  old  monastery  of  8t,  Martin,  a  little  farther  up 
the  river,  is  now  a  reformatory  for  Protestant  children.  —  The  Prot- 
estant Church,  built  in  1851  on  lines  suggested  by  Frederick 
William  IV.,  was  enlarged  in  1887  and  provided  with  a  tower. 

The  MarJenbergt  a  large  building  which  rises  at  the  back  of  the 
town,  lOOft^TBove  the  Rhine,  formerly  a  Benedictine  nunnery,  is 
now  a  hydropathic  establishment  (p.  116).  The  water  is  supplied  by 
the  Orgelborn,  a  spring  renowned  for  centuries  for  its  purity  and  un- 
varying temperature.  The  fine  old  park  is  open  to  the  public. 

The  numeroas  attractive  walks  in  the  Environs  op  Boppard  are  in- 
dicated by  guide-posts  and  coloured  marks.  —  The  Krevxherg  (765  ft.  j  re- 
staurant) may  be  ascended  in  s/4  hr.  by  footpaths  through  the  Josephinen- 
Thal  or  the  Fraubach-Thal,  or  by  the  more  picturesque  route  through  the 
Michels-Thal  and  Josephinen-Thal. 

Below  Boppard,  near  the  Miihlbad  (p.  116),  opens  the  MUhlthal,  a 
valley  enclosed  by  wooded  hills  and  affording  a  number  of  picturesque 
walks  {Pmtion  Henuler.  see  p.  116).  One  of  the  finest  points  is  the  iJlte 
Burg  (815  ft.),  a  hill  at  the  mouth  of  the  valley  (reached  by  ascending  to 
the  right),  which  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Other  points  of  view  are  the 
Gedtofueek  and  the  Vierseen-Platz,  or  *place  of  the  four  lakes'  (995  ft.  •,  re- 
staurant), whence  four  apparently  unconnected  parts  of  the  Rhine  are  vis- 
ible. From  the  Vierseen-Platz  a  path  descends  past  the  Jaeobaberger  Mof 
(p.  116)  to  (l»/4  hr.)  Rhmt  (p.  115).  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  valley  the 
Eronprineen-Weg  leads  from  the  Pens.  Henzler  to  Boppard  via  the  ElfenUi. 
—  From  the  pension  we  may  ascend  the  valley,  passing  a  Fi*h  Breeding 
EstabUshmerU  and  traversing  fine  woods  of  oaks  and  beeches,  to  (2V«  hrs.) 
Winningen  (p.  191). 

The  FleokertshShe  (1740  ft.)  is  ascended  in  2  hrs.  from  Boppard,  either 
by  following  the  road  to  the  Hun»riicken  as  far  as  the  kilometre-stone 
marked  *7.4'  and  then  diverging  to  the  left  by  a  path  (blue  marks)  leading 
through  pine-woods  \  or  by  crossing  the  park  of  Marienberg  to  the  church- 
yard and  then  taking  the  path  to  the  right  through  the  wood  (indicated  by 
blue  arrows).  On  the  top  if  the  Rettaurant  tur  Schifnm  AuiHcht  (also  pension). 
The  very  extensive  view  comprises  the  Seven  Mts.,  Bifel,  Hochwald,  Idar, 
and  Taunus.  The  path  descending  to  (1  hr.)  Salzig  (p.  118)  through  meadows 
and  woods  cannot  be  missed.  ^  j 

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118    Route  17.  BORNHOFEN.  From  Cohlenz 

Fbom  Boppabd  to  Bbodbnbach,  10  M.,  carr.  in  2Vs  hrs.  (20  jM).  The 
road  ascendf  the  Fraitbaeh-  Thai  (ahort-cut  for  walkers),  croases  the  SdbeU- 
herg,  and  aacenda  the  Burbach'Thal  to  the  (Ai/s  M.)  Hunarflck  road,  which 
we  follow  to  the  right.  1  M.  BucJiholt  (Welter  Inn)-,  IV4  M.  Wimdhatum 
(to  the  left  of  the  road):  Vs  M.  HeneJueium;  IV4  M.  Path  ascending  to  the 
left  to  the  JEhrmiburg.    Fine  riews.    !»/«  M.  Brodenbach  (p.  192). 

A  diligence  runs  twice  daily  from  Boppard  to  (17>/2  M.)  Castellaun 
in  4  hrs. 

Above  Boppard,  on  the  left,  lies  Camp  (Kauth,  above  the  village, 
pens.  31/2-4  Ji;  Anker ^  on  the  Rhine),  a  village  with  1500  inhab., 
frequented  as  a  snmmer-resldence.  To  Branbach  over  the  hills,  see 
p.  115.  —  A  road  shaded  with  walnut-trees  leads  along  the  bank 
from  Gamp  to  the  (8/4  M.)  convent  of  — 

1.  Bornhofen  (*Hdiel  Marieriberg,  R.  1^2'%  pens,  from  41/4  Jf; 
Zum  Liebenstein^  R.  from  1,  pens,  from  31/2  ^^ A  ^^^^  *  Gothic 
church  erected  in  1435,  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims.  On  a  bold  rocky 
eminence  above  the  convent  stand  the  twin  castles  of  — 

SterrerU)era  and  Liebensmn,  better  known  as  The  Brothers,  con- 
nected  by  a  snarp  cbine  or  rock.  The  legend  of  these  castles  may 
thus  be  briefly  told :  — 

Conrad  and  Heinrich,  sons  of  the  knight  Bayer  von  Boppard,  the  lord 
of  Liebenstein,  were  enamoured  of  their  foster-sister,  the  beantinil  Hilde- 
garde.  Heinrich  with  rare  generosity  tore  himself  away  and  ioined  the 
crusades,  leaving  his  brother  Conrad  to  win  the  prize.  That  his  son  and 
the  fair  bride  might  still  be  near  him ,  the  old  knight  built  the  castle  of 
Sterrenberg  for  their  reception,  but,  his  death  occurring  bfifore  its  com- 
pletion, the  nuptials  were  postponed.  Meanwhile  Conrad's  neart  grew  cold 
towards  Hildegarde.  Hearing  of  the  valiant  deeds  of  his  absent  brother, 
his  soul  burned  to  share  hia  honoura,  and,  wearied  of  an  inactive  life,  he 
joined  the  cruaadea.  Hildegarde  now  passed  her  days  in  the  lonely  castle 
of  Liebenstein,  brooding  over  her  sad  lot,  not  doubting  the  a£fection  of 
Conrad,  but  weeping  over  the  uncertainty  of  his  return.  Suddenly  Conrad 
returned  to  Sterrenberg  with  a  lovely  Grecian  bride,  and  the  outraged  Hilde- 
garde ,  stunned  by  the  blow ,  shut  herself  up  in  the  loneliest  chamber  of 
her  dreary  abode,  and  refused  to  see  any  one  but  her  attendant.  Late 
one  evening  a  stranger  knight  demanded  the  hospitality  of  the  castle.  He 
proved  to  be  the  chivalrous  Heinrich,  who,  hearing  of  his  brother'^s  per- 
fidy, resolved  to  avenge  his  foster-si8ter''s  wrongs.  He  accordingly  chal- 
lenged Conrad  to  single  combat,  but  before  the  brothers*  swords  had  cross- 
ed, Hildegarde  interposed  between  them  and  insisted  on  a  reconcillatioB, 
to  which  they  reluctantly  consented.  Hildegarde  then  reUred  to  the  con- 
vent of  Bornhofen,  at  the  base  of  the  rock  on  which  the  castles  stand.  Con- 
rad'^s  Grecian  bride  soon  proved  faithless,  and  he,  overcome  with  shame 
and  remorse,  threw  himself  on  his  generous  broUier's  breast,  exclaiming  that 
no  consolation  was  now  left  him  but  his  friendship.  Thus  their  estrange- 
ment ended,  and  the  brothers  thencefortti  lived  together  in  harmony  and 
retirement  at  Liebenstein,  while  Sterrenberg  was  for  ever  deserted. 

These  castles  were  held  as  early  as  the  12th  cent,  as  a  fief  of  the 
empire  by  the  knights  of  Boland,  and  in  1317  came  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  Electors  of  Treves.  Sterrenberg,  the  higher  ruin,  is 
separated  from  Liebenstein  by  a  moat  and  a  massive  wall,  known 
as  the  'Streit-Mauer'  (wall  of  combat)  in  reference  to  the  hostile 
meeting  of  the  brothers.  The  ruins  (restaurants)  are  interesting  and 
command  a  fine  view  of  the  rocky  ravines  beneath. 

r.  Salzig  (Stumm,  well  spoken  of),  so  called  from  its  weak  saline 

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to  Maytnee.  ST.  GOAR.  17.  Route.  119 

spring,  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  orchard,  whence  ship-loads  of 
cherries  are  annually  exported  to  the  Lower  Rhine,  Holland,  and 
England.   Farther  up  (1.)  lies  the  village  of  Nieder-Kestert  (Stern). 

r.  HirtenacK  A  handsome  building,  once  a  deanery,  and  the 
church,  built  about  1170,  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Siegburg. 

To  the  right  are  the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Werlau  Mines. 

1.  Ekrenihal  is  a  small  village  inhabited  by  miners  who  work 
the  lead-mines  in  the  vicinity. 

1.  Wellmich  (Adler),  a  picturesquely  situated  village ,  with  a 
small  G^iiiic  church ,  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  Thum- 
iierg,  or  Deurenburg.  This  stronghold ,  be^un  by  Archbishop  Boe- 
mund  n.  of  Treves,  and  completed  in  1363  by  his  successor  Kuno 
von  Falkenstein,  was  derisively  called  the  Iggnae  (Maus)  by  the  | 
Counts  of  Eatzenelnbogen,  in  contradistinction  to  their  ^Gat^  (p.  120). 
Ascent  fatiguing,  but  there  is  a  fine  view  from  the  summit. 
The  interior  contains  a  few  points  of  architectural  j\^eieat.  ^ 

r.  St.  0^.  —  Hotels.    *Lilib,  with  baths,  R.  lV«-3,  B.  iy4,  D.  3,^57*^- 
pens.  5-VJll/;  *ScHNEiDEB,  at  the  lower  emd  of  the  town,  D.  S^/a-S  Jf.  —  At      '^^ 
the  steamboat-pier :  Rheinfels,  R.  iV2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V2.  P^na.  6-1  Jt;  Hotel  a  '2,CS^^ 
Jdno,  R.  from  IVz,  B.  3/4,  pens,  from  4V8  J(;  Tradbb,  R.  iV2-2,  B.  3/4,  *     yaJ^ 
D.  IV21  pens.  4  U»,  unpretending;  Hotbl-Rbstaubant  Fiscbbb,  with  view,  U    " 

well  spoken  of;  Lobelbt,  these  two  on  the  road  to  Oberwesel.  —  Shein- 
I«m/,  a  garden-restaurant  on  the  hillside  above  the  town*,  Volk,  on  the 
Rhine,  beer. 

Steam-ferry  to  St.  Goarshausen,  10  pf. 

English  Ohurch  Service  in  July  and  August. 

St.  Ooar,  a  town  with  1600  inhab.,  the  handsomesXll4i>il  ^^^ 
smaller  Rhenish  towns,  and  deriving  a  look  of  additional  importance 
from  the  extensive  ruins  of  Rheinfels,  owes  its  name  and  origin 
to  a  chapel  founded  in  the  time  of  Siegbert,  King  of  Austrasia  (570), 
by  St.  Gear,  who  preached  the  gospel  here.  Down  to  1794  it  was  the 
capital  of  the  lower  county  of  Katzenelnbogen  (comp.  p.  121),  and 
since  1815  it  has  been  Prussian.  —  Below  the  town  is  a  large  harbour. 

The  Protestant  Church,  built  about  1469,  with  Romanesque  choir 
and  crypt,  contains  an  excellent  late-Gothic  pulpit  in  stone  and 
the  Renaissance  monuments  of  the  Landgrave  Philip  (d.  1583)  and 
his  countess  (in  a  private  chapel).  —  The  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  is  adorned  with  an  old  stone  effigy  of 
the  saint  with  an  inscription. 

A  curious  old  custom,  the  ^Hdn»eln\  or  Initiation,  which  prevailed 
here  till  the  beginning  of  the  steunboat-traffic  in  1827,  is  said  to  have 
dated  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  Every  traveller  who  visited  the 
town  for  the  first  time  was  attached  to  ring  in  the  wall  of  the  Custom- 
house, and  obliged  to  submit  to  the  water  or  the  wine  ordeal.  If  the 
former  was  selected,  a  good  ducking  was  the  result;  the  pleasanter  alter- 
native consisted  in  drinking  a  goblet  of  wine  to  the  memory  of  Charle- 
magne, the  Queen  of  England,  the  reigning  prince,  and  the  members  of 
the  society  which  enforced  obedience  to  the  custom.  The  traveller  was 
then  invested  with  the  rights  of  a  member  of  the  society,  and  finally  had 
to  present  a  donation  to  the  poor  and  enter  his  name  in  the  ^Hanselbuch\ 

The  castle  of  Bheinfelit  rising  at  the  back  of  the  town,  375  ft. 
above  the  Rhine  (^4  hr.  from  the  pier),  is  the  most  imposing  ruin 


120   BouU  77.  ST.  GOARSHAUSEN.  From  Cohlm% 

OD  the  riyer.  It  was  founded  by  Count  Diether  III.  of  Katzeneln- 
bogen  (d.  1276),  a  friend  of  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  and  a  new 
Rhine- toll  was  established  here.  In  1692  it  was  bravely  and  success- 
fully  defended  by  the  Hessian  General  von  Gorz  against  the  French 
General  Count  Tallard  with  an  army  of  24,000  men.  In  1768  the 
castle  was  surprised  and  taken  by  the  French,  who  kept  a  garrison 
in  it  till  1763.  Thirty  years  later  it  was  basely  deserted  by  the  Hes- 
sian commandant,  and  fell,  with  its  valuable  stores,  into  the  hands 
of  the  French  revolutionary  army  (2nd  Nov.,  1794).  Three  years 
afterwards  it  was  blown  up.  The  interior  contains  little^ worthy  of 
note ;  view  limited.  The  custodian  is  generally  at  or  near  the  castle 
(fee  25-60  pf. ,  more  for  a  party).  Refreshments  may  also  be 
obtained.  —  The  path  to  the  castle  passes  the  churchyard-wall,  on 
which  is  the  *FLammen$atUe\  a  rough  sandstone  obelisk,  supposed 

/       to  be  of  pre-Roman  origin. 

'  i  The  8mteA*^"  (1315  ft.),  reached  from  Bheinfels  vi&  Biebemlieim 
in  1  ^4  hr.,  comflkands  ajijlendid  yievy,  extending  from  Caub  to  Oberwesel  (re- 
fuge-hut by  the  rocKS  on  the  summit).  Descent  yit  NiederbtuULiP  (i  ^^') 
Oberwesel  (p.  122),  or  rift  drbar  to  the  Rhine  opposite  the  Lurlei  and  so 
back  to  St.  Goar. 

1.  St.  Ooarshausen.  —  Hotels.  *Adlbb,  on  the  Rhine,  with  garden, 
B.  172-21/2,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  5-6  U».  —  Nassadeb  Hop,  E.  IV2-2  UT,  B.  70  pf., 
D.  lyz,  pens.  4-5  Jlf,  weU  spoken  of;  Kbonb;  Hohbnzojllbb,  B.  &  B.  2Up 
20  pf.,  well  spoken  of;  Rhbinisoher  Hop,  good  wine. 

Steam-ferry  to  St.  Goar,  10  pf. 

English  Ohuroh  Serviee  in  July  and  August. 

St,  fiparshausen  (715  ft.)  is  a  small  town  with  1600  inhab.,  the 
upper  part  of  which  is  so  confined  between  the  river  and  the  hill 
that  a  bulwark  ofmasonry,  on  which  two  watch-towers  are  situated, 
had  to  be  abuilt  at  an  early  period  to  protect  the  town  against 
inundations.    The  Protestant  church  was  finished  in  1863. 

Above  St.  Goarshausen,  about  halfway  up  the  hill,  on  the  road  to 
the  Huhnerberg  (p.  121),  rises  the  oastle  of  Neu-Katzenelnhogen, 
commonly  called  the  Cat  (Katz),  erected  in  1393  by  Oount  Johann 
of  Katzenelnbogen,  whose  family  became  extinct  in  1479.  It  then 
belonged  to  the  Hessian  princes,  and  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1806.  The  present  owner  has  built  himself  a  house  in  a  har- 
monious style  on  the  old  foundations  (no  admission).  The  road  to 
the  Cat  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  through  the  Schweizer-Thal 
(see  below),  beyond  the  second  mill. 

The  Lublei  (see  p.  121)  is  most  conveniently  visited  from  the  upper 
end  of  St.  Goarshausen  via  the  Schweizer-Thal^  or  Switi  Valley ^  a  pretty 
rocky  gorge  about  2  M.  long.  Passing  under  the  railway,  we  follow  the 
cart-road  in  the  valley  for  about  1  M.  to  the  Zdllners-MWiU^  where  a  Anger- 
post  to  the  right  indicates  the  ascent  to  the  '-Mdnnehen'.  Beyond  the 
Mannehen  we  continue  to  follow  the  main  track,  and  at  the  top  of  the  hill 
turn  to  the  right  by  a  field-path  (euide-post).  The  summit  of  the  Lurlei 
(rfmts.  in  summer)  commands  an  admirable  view  of  the  deep  Rhine  valley. 
For  the  descent  we  may  choose  either  the  steep  path  with  steps  reaching 
the  road  at  the  (V4  hr.)  tunnel,  or  the  easier  path  0/«br^  through  the 
vineyards,  which  reaches  the  St.  Goarshausen  road  about  300  yds.  farther 
down.    The  whole  excursion  occupies  about  "2 * hi^s.'.^^^  ^^  i 

^dbyLiOOgle 


to  Mayenee,  LUBLEI.  17.  Route,  121 

A  footpath  leads  from  the  Larlei  to  the  (I/4  ^i')  payilion  on  the 
Hiihnerberg,  commanding  a  view  of  the  basin  of  St.  Goar  (another  path 
also  from  the  just-mentioned  gnide-post). 

ExcDBSioN  TO  Rbichknbebo,  SVs  M.  We  either  take  the  narrow-gauge 
line  mentioned  below,  or  follow  the  path  leading  through  the  Hcuenhach- 
Thal^  a  valley  which  opens  a  little  below  St.  Goarshausen.  The  footpath, 
provided  with  numerous  benches ,  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  road 
through  the  valley,  and  rejoins  it  near  Reichenberg.  A  pleasant  way  back 
is  via  the  village  of  FaUnberg  (1125  ft.) ,  on  the  brink  of  the  vine-clad 
slopes  above  the  Swiss  Valley,  or  past  the  OffmthaUr  Hofy  to  the  S.,  and 
then  through  the  upper  part  of  the  Swiss  Valley  to  the  I«urlei. 

The  castle  of  *Beiohenbarg,  erected  in  1284  by  Count  Wilhelm  I.  of 
Eatsenelnbogen,  rebuilt  in  1319,  and  during  the  Hessian  supremacy  the 
residence  of  the  governor  of  the  lower  county,  was  at  length  sold  in  1818 
for  the  sake  of  the  building  materials.  Fortunately,  however,  it  escaped 
demolition,  and  is  still  a  grand  and  picturesque  edifice  with  a  lofty  tower. 
The  approach  to  the  Goubt  (see  also  p.  zxxi)  is  striking.  Here  on  the 
left  we  oTteerve  the  chief  entrance  to  the  castle,  flanked  with  two  columns 
of  granite.  The  Intbbiob  of  the  castle  has  been  restored,  and  is  now 
decorated  with  old  weapons,  armour,  domestic  utensils,  etc.  (fee).  The 
original  dwelling-house  consisted  of  three  stories,  but  the  dividing  beams 
have  been  broken  away;  the  Romanesque  columns,  however,  placed  one 
above  the  other,  which  bear  the  lofty  pointed  vaulting,  are  still  preserved. 
The  TowBB,  which  is  ascended  by  wooden  steps,  commands  a  view  of 
the  neighbourhood.  A  second  tower  to  Uie  E.,  connected  with  the  other  by 
8  lofty  curtain-wall,  is  half  destroyed. 

From  St.  Goabshausen  to  Zollhaus,  via  Nastatten,  27>/2  M.,  narrow- 
gauge  railway  in  about  3  hrs.  (two  through-trains  daily).  The  line 
ascends  the  Hcuenhach'Thdl  (see  above)  to  (3  M.)  Reichenberg  (TOO  ft.),  whence 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  casUe  (»/»  M.).  —  At  (6  M.)  Bogel  (1180  ft.)  we 
reach  the  edge  of  the  plateau  between  the  Rhine  and  the  Lahn.  —  The 
line  then  descends  into  the  MUhlbach-Thal  (p.  116). 

10  If.  Kastfttten  (^ft.;  Ounirun;  Recien)  is  the  junction  of  the  line 
to  Braubach  (p.  116).  —  14  M.  Eolzhausen  auf  der  Heide  (1276  ft.  \  Post)  is 
situated  on  the  Wiesbaden  road,  whence  a  footpath,  diverging  to  the  left 
about  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  station,  leads  through  wood  to  the  (1  M.) 
Alteburg^  a  Roman  entrenched  camp  (partly  restored). 

21  M.  Katsenelnbogen  (916  ft. ;  Hdt.  Bremter^  very  fair),  on  the  Ddrsbach^ 
lies  at  the  base  of  a  porphyry  cliff  crowned  by  the  ancestral  castle  of  the 
Counts  of  Eatzenelnbogen,  who  since  the  11th  cent,  expended  their  sway 
over  the  district  between  the  Rhine  and  the  Lahn  (the  4ower  county") 
and  over  the  now  Hessian  province  of  Starkenburg  (the  'upper  county"). 
On  the  death  of  Philip,  the  last  count,  in  1479,  h  s  possessions  passed  to 
the  Landgrave  of  Upper  Hesse.  In  1815  all  the  lower  county  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Rhine  became  Prussian. 

25  H.  Sohlen/els  is  dominated  by  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  that  name 
(940  ft.),  beside  which  is  a  more  recent  castle,  now  used  an  an  'Inn  (pens. 
3V2  Jf).  —  271/2  M.  Zollhausy  see  p.  lU. 

On  the  left  rise  the  imposing  rocks  of  the  *Lwrtei;  or  Lorelei, 
430  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  The  well-known  legend  of  Ithe  fairy  who 
had  her  dwelling  on  the  rock,  and,  like  the  sirens  of  old,  enticed 
sailors  and  fishermen  to  their  destructitm  in  the  rapids  at  the  foot 
of  the  precipice,  has  long  been  a  favouritA  theme  with  the  poet  and 
the  painter.  Heine's  beautiful  ballad  (1823)  is  still  deservedly 
popular.  According  to  Mamer,  a  poet  of  the  13th  cent.,  the  Nibe- 
lungen  treasure  lies  hidden  beneath  the  *Lurlenberg*.  —  At  the 
foot  of  the  Larlei  is  a  large  harbour.  .» 

This  is  the  narrowest  (about  220  yds.)  and  deepest  (76  ft.)  part 
of  the  river.    The  famous  echo  returned  by  the  lofty  cliffs  on  both 


122   Route  17,  OBERWESEL.  From  Cohlent 

sides  is  not  audible  from  tlie  steamer,  but  may  be  successfully  wakened 
from  a  small  boat  in  tbe  quiet  of  early  morning  or  late  evening. 

Opposite  the  Rosstttin^  a  rocky  point  to  the  left,  which  the  rail- 
way penetrates  by  a  tunnel ,  a  ridge  of  rocks ,  known  as  the  ''Seven 
Virgin8\  is  visible  when  the  river  is  low.  It  is  said  that  these  rugged 
masses  were  once  seven  fair  maidens  of  the  Schonbuig,  who  were  con- 
demned by  the  river-god  for  their  prudery  to  this  metamorphosis. 

r.  Oly^yweieL  —  Hotels.  Bhbinisoheb  Hop,  near  the  pier  and  not  far 
from  the  station,  B.  &  B.  2V4t  D.  iVsi  pens.  4  JV;  *Ooli>bnbb  Pfbopfbn- 
ZIEHE&,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  village,  in  a  retired  situation,  B.  2. 
D.  iy2-3,  pens.  4-6  A;  Dedtschbs  Hads,  E.  &  B.  2V4-2V2,  D.  lV«i  P^m. 
^  Jl;  ZuM  HDNSBdcKEN,  good  wlne.  —  Fcuihinger'*  Rutawrant^  with  garden, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Schonburg,  to  the  N.  of  the  Frauen-Kirche. 

Oherwesel^  an  old  town  with  2600  inhab.,  named  Y^iSasdO-  ^^  Peut- 
inger's  map  of  Roman  roads  (p.  xxiv),  and  once  a  free  town  of  the 
empire,  was  afterwards  ceded  by  Henry  VII.  (1308-14)  to  his  brother 
Archbishop  Baldwin  of  Treves.  Its  churches,  walls,  and  pinnacled 
towerq  (14th  cent.) ,  over  which  frown  the  ruins  of  the  Schonburg, 
Sender  Oberwesel  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  on  the  Rhine. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  town  rises  the  conspicuous^royen-gircfeg^ 
or  Church  of  Our  Lady,  a  fine  Gothic  edifice  in  reel  sandstone, 
erected  in  1307-31.  The  narrow  and  lofty  choir  and  nave  rise  high 
above  the  aisles. 

Interior  (entrance  on  the  N.  side).  The  Screen  between  the  choir  and 
nave  dates  from  the  14th  century.  The  High  Attar^  of  1331,  is  adorned 
within  by  delicate  wood-carving  and  outside  by  painted  figures  of  saints. 
By  the  side-altars  and  in  the  aisles  are  several  Paintings  of  the  Lower 
S^enish  School;  that  at  the  N.  side-altar  has  a  representation  of  the  nave 
of  the  church.  On  the  piers  are  interesting  Mural  Paintings  of  the 
15-16th  centuries.  In  the  N.  chapel  and  in  the  nave  are  several  Tombs  of 
the  Knights  and  Counts  of  Schdnberg  (16-17th  cent. ;  see  below).  By  the  W. 
wall  is  the  late-Gothic  monument  of  Canon  Lntem  (d.  1505). 

The  Gothic  Church  of^^Wemer^  partly  resting  on  the  town- 
wall,  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine,  was  (like  the  church  of  the  same 
name  at  Bacharach,  p.  124)  built  about  1301 ;  fine  choir- windows. 
At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  is  the  handsome  round  Ochsenthurm, 
with  its  lofty  pinnacles. 

Upon  the  hill  lies  the  late-Gothic  8t,  Martins-Kirch^^  with  its 
castle-like  tower  with  turrets  at  the  corners.  The  S.  aisle  con- 
tains ,  under  a  modem  canopy ,  a  coloured  and  gilt  group  of  St. 
Anna  and  the  Virgin,  of  Gothic  workmanship.  This  church  also 
contains  some  curious  reUc-cases  and  other  objects  of  interest  (the 
sacristan  lives  at  No.  223,  near  the  choir). 

The  route  to  the  Spitzeistein  (IV2  hr.)  vi&  Niederhurg  (comp.  p.  120) 
ascends  to  the  left  near  the'Ochsenthurm,  just  outside  the  town-wall.  — 
A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  along  the  Rhine  to  St.  Goar  (p.  119).  — 
DiUgence  to  Simmem  (p.  165),  daily. 

Above  Oberwesel  rise  the  modern  chateau  and  the  picturesque 
old  ruin  of  (r.)  Qslkaxihjm^,  the  la^er,with  its  four  huge  towers,  erected 
about  the  12th  cent.,  the  cradle  of  a  once  mighty  race  which  became 
extinct  in  1713.    In  1615  it  was  the  birthplace  of  Omjnt  Frederick 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


to  Maymee,  CAUB.  17,  BouU.    123 

Hermann  of  Schonburg,  better  known  as  Marshal  Schomberg,  who 
fought  under  the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  in  1668,  when  in  the  French 
serrice,  compelled  the  Spaniards  to  acknowledge  the  House  of  Bra- 
ganza.  On  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  he  was  obliged 
to  quit  the  French  service,  and  under  the  ElectiSTdt  Bffnddll^urg 
became  minister  of  state,  and  gOYernor  of  Prussia ;  he  finally  passed 
over  to  England  with  the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  fell  at  the  memor- 
able battle  of  the  Boyne  in  1690.  In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  the 
castle  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Swedes,  and  in  1689  it  was  sacked 
by  the  French.  The  castle  now  belongs  to  Messrs.  P.  and  T.  J.  Q. 
Rhinelandw  of  New  York.  About  */2  M.  from  the  station,  on  the 
road  ascen^ng  from  the  Frauen-Kirche,  a  footpath  diverges  to  the 
right  (10  min.).  We  ring  at  the  entrance  to  the  castle  (fee).  —  On 
the  W.  side,  a  pleasant  path  descends  into  the  rocky  EnghoU  valley, 
which  yields  an  excellent  wine.  From  the  village  of  Engeholl  (wine 
at  Schneider's)  to  Oberwesel,  2^4  M. 

1.  Canb  (705  ft.;  Zum  Oriinen  Wald;  Adler,  R.  1V2-2  Jf ;  Zur 
Pfalz,  tX  tte  station,  well  spoken  of;  wine  at  the  Thurm  and  Stadt 
Mannheim),  an  ancient  town  with  2200  inhab.,  still  partly  sur- 
rounded with  medieval  fortifications,  is  important  on  account  of  its 
productive  subterranean  slate-quarries  and  as  a  wine-growing  centre. 
The  Church ,  dating  from  the  12th  cent,  and  partly  modernized  in 
1770,  has,  with  the  exception  of  the  choir,  been  used  by  the  Pro- 
testants ever  since  the  Reformation.  The  Nothweg,  an  attractive 
promenade  along  the  town- walls,  is  reached  from  beside  the  square 
tower.  A  large  Statue  of  Bluchevy  by  Schaper,  erected  in  1894, 
shows  the  field-marshal  pointing  out  to  his  soldiers  the  way  over 
the  Rhine.  A  tablet  on  the  ^Stadt  Mannheim'  marks  his  headquarters 
from  Dec.  31st,  1813,  to  Jan.  2nd,  1814. 

At  the  back  of  the  town  rises  the  picturesque  castle  of  Gutg^elSf 
with  its  lofty  square  pinnacled  tower,  named  Cube  in  the  middle 
ages,  which  was  sold  together  with  the  little  town  of  Caub  by  the 
knights  of  Falkenstein  to  the  Palatinate  in  1277.  The  building  has 
recently  been  restored.  The  Earl  ^l^ornwall ,  who  was  elected 
.  King  of  Germany  in  1257,  is  said  to  have  become  enamoured  here 
of  the  beautiful  Countess  Beatrix  of  Falkenstein,  whom  he  married 
on  the  death  of  his  first  wife  in  1269. 

Above  Gaub,  on  a  ledge  of  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  Rhine, 
rises  the  *Pfalg,  or  P/WZtfpr/^/'fflj»/>>(n^  a  hexagonal  building,  founded  'T 
by  Emp.  Louis  the  Bavarian  (1314-47)  and  well  preserved  exter- 
nally and  internally.  It  has  a  pentagonal  tower  covered  with  an 
unsightly  roof,  numerous  turrets  and  jutting  corners,  loopholes  in 
every  direction,  and  one  entrance  only,  situated  about  6  ft.  above 
the  xoek,  and  reached  by  means  of  a  ladder.  On  the  S.  side  is  seen 
the  lion  of  the  Palatinate  as  bearer  of  the  escutcheon  of  the  ancient 
lords  of  the  castle.  The  interior  (keys  kept  by  a  boatman  at  Caub, 
who  ferries  visitors  to  the  building ;  fee  75  pf.)  is  uninteresting. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


124  Boute  17.  BACHABACH.  From  CobUn% 

At  this  point ,  early  on  New  Year's  Day,  1814,  a  Prussian  corps 
under  York,  and  a  division  of  Russian  troops  under  Langeron, 
effected  the  passage  of  the  Rhine  under  the  direction  of  Blucher. 

r.  Bacharach.  —  Hotels.  'ndTEL  Hkbbbbcht  (la**  Wasum),  at  the 
statrin,  wiik  a  garden,  R.  l»/4-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V«-3,  pens.  iyt-QJf;  BLficHBE- 
THAL,  in  the  townj  Webbb  (see  below),  these  two  unpretending.  —  Wine 
at  BcutiarCi  and  at  Jeiter  ds  MiUler'^t  (view). 

Bacharach^  an  ancient  town  with  1900  inhah. ,  lies  picturesquely 
at  the  entrance  to  the  narrow  Steeger^Thaly  and  is  commanded  hy 
the  castle  of  Stahleck,  at  the  foot  of  which  stands  the  beautiful 
ruin  of  St.  ATemer's  church.  The  old  town-walls,  a  great  part  of 
which  is  still  well-preserved ,  descending  from  th^  castle  and 
enclosing  the  town ,  with  three-sided  towers  at  intervals  of  100- 
150  paces,  afford  a  good  example  of  mediaeval  fortifications. 

Bacharach,  mentioned  as  Bachercho  in  1019  and  as  Bagcaracha 
in  1140,  was  noted  for  its  wine  at  an  early  period,  and  down  to 
the  16th  cent,  was  one  of  the  greatest  vane-marts  on  the  river.  Pope 
Pius  II.  (iEneas  Sylvius)  caused  a  cask  of  'Bacharach  wine*  to  be 
brought  to  Rome  annually,  and  the  town  of  Nuremberg  obtained  its 
freedom  in  return  for  a  yearly  tribute  to  the  Emperor  Wenzel  of  four 
tuns  of  the  same  wine. 

In  the  Markt-Platz,  where  the  road  through  the  Steeger-Thal 
diverges  from  the  main  street  of  the  town,  rises  the  Protestant 
Church  of  St.  Peter,  or  Templars'  Church,  a  highly  interesting  late- 
Komanesque  edifice  of  elegant  proportions,  dating  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  13th  cent,  and  recently  restored.  It  includes  a  round 
choir  originally  decorated  in  polychrome,  two  round  E.  towers,  and 
a  square  W.  tower.  Under  this  last  is  a  fine  early-Gothic  porch, 
and  on  the  N.  side  there  is  a  rich  portal.  The  old  building  vnth  a 
tower,  now  the  Parsonage,  was  formerly  a  Capuchin  monastery. 
Opposite  the  church  is  the  Weber  Inn,  a  tasteful  example  of  half- 
timbered  architecture,  dating  from  1568  and  restored  in  1897. 

On  a  slight  eminence  (ascent  on  the  S.  side  of  the  church  of  St. 
Peter)  stands  the  graceful  *Church  of  St,  Werfier^  erected  in  1293 
in  the  Gothic  style  in  the  form  o^  a  trefoil ,  partly  restored  in  the 
15th  cent.,  but  now  a  ruin,  one-third  of  the  original  building 
having  been  destroyed.  The  delicate  tracery  of  the  windows  should 
be  noticed.  It  was  erected  to  commemorate  the  canonisation  of  St. 
Werner,  a  boy  who,  according  to  tradition,  was  murdered  by  Jews  in 
1286,  and  whose  body  was  landed  here  after  having  miraculously 
floated  up  the  stream  from  Oberwesel.  Above  the  church  (10  min. 
walk)  rises  the  castle  of  Stahleck  (p.  125). 

yhe  Steefff^r-Th^l^  at  the  back  of  the  town,  affords  a  pleasant  walk ; 
it  is  sometimes  called  the  Bltlcher-Thal  from  the  fact  that  Bltlcher  after 
his  passage  of  the  Rhine  on  1st  .Tan.,  1814,  pursued  a  body  of  French  troops 
through  this  valley  towards  the  Hunsriick.  After  about  1  M.  we  reach 
Steeg  (Hutwohl),  which  yields  an  excellent  white  and  red  wine.  Above 
the  village  (40  min.  from  Bacharach)  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Stahlberg, 
which  like  those  of  Stahleck  and  Fiirstenberg  (p.  136)    once    belonged 


y  Google 


to  Mayenee.  LORCH.  17,  Route.    125 

to  the  Goants  Palatine.    A  pictaresque  panorama  may  be  enjoyed  from 
the  '8«h5nhUek%  IV4  H.  from  the  village. 

Above  Bacharacb  rises  the  once  strongly  >  fortified  castle  of 
Stahleck ,  the  extensive  ruins  of  vrbich  extend  down  to  the  valley, 
the  principal  residence  of  the  Ck)unts  Palatine  from  1142  to  1253. 
The  French  besieged  and  took  the  castle  and  town  eight  times  in 
1620-40,  and  finally  destroyed  the  former  in  1689.  The  ruins  are 
surrounded  with  pleasure-grounds. 

Nearly  opposite  the  castle  (1.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Betzbach^  lies 
the  village  of  LorcMMusenj  with  a  modern  Gothic  church. 

On  a  rocky^emiit^nce  on  the  right,  above  the  village^  of  Rhein" 
diebach,  rise  the  ruins  of  Fftrrtenlyery*  made  over  to  the  Palatinate 
in  1243  as  a  fief  of  Cologne.  In  12^2,  when  Adolph  of  Nassau  was 
on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Aix-la-Ghapelle,  the  garrison  of  the 
castle  had  the  audacity  forcibly  to  detain  the  vessel  of  the  king  for 
the  purpose  of  levying  toll.  In  1321  the  castle  was  taken  by  the  Em- 
peror Lewis  the  Bavarian  from  his  opponent  Frederick  the  Fair,  and 
presented  to  his  consort  Margaret  of  Holland.  In  1632  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Swedes,  and  in  1689  it  was  destroyed  by  the  French. 

Opposite  the  Furstenberg,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Wisper, 
which  falls  into  the  Rhine  here,  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  yoljipfr 
(580  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  mentioned  in  1110.  The  rugged  cliff  on 
its  W.  slope  is  called  the  ^DeviVa  Ladder',  of  which  a  legend  re- 
cords that  a  knight  of  Lorch  with  the  assistance  of  mountain-sprites 
once  scaled  it  on  horseback,  and  thus  gained  the  hand  of  his  lady- 
love. The  Wisper-Thal  is  unenviably  known  for  the  keen  *Wisper 
Wind',  which  blows  through  it  towards  the  Rhine. 

1.  LoTeh(*Krone,  with  garden,  D.  i^j^JC,  good  wine;  Schmidt, 
very  fair;  Railway  Hotel),  a  small  town  with  2700inhab.,  forming 
a  long  street  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  mentioned  in  a  charter  as  early 
as  832,  was  in  the  middle  ages  a  favourite  residence  of  noble  families. 
In  the  church-yard  is  »*Cruciflx  dated  1491.  The  lofty  Gothic  Church 
of  St.  Martin,  of  the  13-1 5th  cent.,  which  possesses  the  finest  hells 
in  the  Rheingau,  was  entirely  restored  in  1871-74.  The  high-altar 
3rl|b,rlch  late^Gothlc  carving  of  1483,  a  fine  late-Gothic  font  of  1464, 
and  the  monument  of  the  knight  Joh.  Hilchen  von  Lorch  (d.  1548) 
merit  inspection.  The  inscription  on  the  last  records  that  Hilchen 
distinguished  himself  against  the  Turks,  and  as  field-marshal  in 
1543-44  against  the  French.  His  house,  a  handsome  Renaissance 
building  of  1546-48,  adorned  with  sculpturing,  is  situated  on  the 
Rhine  about  the  middle  of  the  village. 

The  road  through  the  *Wisper-Thal  to  Schwalbach  (SOVa  M. ',  carriage 
'!^ith  one  horse  20,  with  two  horses  SO  Jt ;  there  and  back  ^  or  26  Jf) 
leads  by  (d  H.)  the  Kammerberger  Miihle  t^Bii)  and  the  (274  H.)  Laukenr 
MUhU  (inn)  to  (2V4  M.)  the  ruin  of  Gerolsteiny  the  finest  point  in  the  valley. 
About  i%  H.  farther  on,  beyond  the  Or euUng»- Miihle ,  the  road  quits  the 
Wisper-Thal  and  enters  the  Fiichbach-Thal.  After  passing  the  O/z  ^O 
Rie$w.-MuhU  it  reaches  the  long  valley  of  the  Dombach^  which  it  follows 
to  a  point  beyond  (3  M.)  RcmtehUd.    Kear  Eamschied  a  saline  spring  is 


126    Route  17,  RHEINSTEIN.  From  CobUnz 

passed  on  the  left.  We  now  ascend  in  windings ,  crosi  the  old  Bhein- 
gau  road  ^Hohe  Strasse';  1585  ft.),  and  descend  to  (4i/t  M.)  Sthuaibaeh 
(p.  143). 

In  the  yalley  of  the  Sauer,  which  unites  with  the  Wisper  >/4  H.  above 
Lorch,  is  the  Sanerbarg,  41/4  U.  from  Lorch  or  Canh,  once  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Sickingen  famUy,  and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689. 

The  E.  bank  of  the  river  from  Loroh  to  Assmannshauseii  is  an^ 
interesting.  The  MIIb  rise  abruptly  from  the  water,  their  lower 
slopes  being  covered  with  vineyards  and  their  summits  with  wood. 

r.  NUderheimbaeh  (rail.  stat. ;  Pfalzer  Hof ;  Rheinlscher  Hof), 
a  long  village,  commanded  by  the  massive  tower  of  Hokeneek,  or 
Hftlmbnrg,  a  castle  of  the  13th  and  14th  cent.,  recently  restored, 
next  comes  in  view.   Extensive  retrospect  as  far  as  Bacharach. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  "now  slightly  contracts.  On  the  right 
^  rises  the  slender  tower  of  8ooyeck|i  commanding  the  entrance  to  a 
ravine.  The  castle ,  which  was  erected  by  Archbishop  Willigls  of 
Mayence  about  1015,  was  destroyed  by  Emp.  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg 
as  a  robbers*  stronghold,  but  rebuilt  in  the  14th  century.  The  ruin 
was  restored  in  1^4  by  the  Emperor  William  I. 

On  the  right  bank  opens  the  Boden^Thal,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
are  the  vineyards  that  yield  the  Bodenthaler  wine,  mentioned  as 
Qjurly  as.  1107.  A  zigzag  path  ascends  hence  through  wood  to  the 
top  of  the  Teufelakadriek  (1365  ft.). 

r.  ^Jjrc^tfT^d^ausen  or  TrechUingshausen  (rail.  stat. ;  Weisses 
Ross,  rTS  BT^i  J?yr~0n  an  eminence  beyond  the  village  rises  the 
Reichensteinj  or  ralkenbgrg,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  In 
1252  this  maraudere'^Sfle  was  destroyed  by  the  confederation  of 
Rhenish  towns,  but  restored  in  1261  by  its  owner,  Philip  von 
Hohenfels,  who  resumed  his  lawless  calling.  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg 
afterwards  besieged  and  dismantled  it ,  and  relentlessly  c^signed 
to  the  gallows  the  robbers  whom  he  found  in  possession.  The  castle 
(restored)  is  now  private  property. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  entrance  to  the  Morgenbach-ThaL  which 
to  a  distance  of  about  1  H.  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  lateral  rlUleys  of 
the  Bhine.  Just  above  the  mill,  where  the  moit  picturesque  view  is  enjoyed, 
a  path  to  the  left  ascends  in  */a  hr.  to  the  Schweicerhaus  (p.  127). 

On  the  right  we  next  observe  the  venerable  CTemwis-CM^eUft, 
a  small  late-Romanesque  edifice,  with  late-Gothic  "cEoir-stalls.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  been  buUt  by  the  knights  of  Waldeck  to  ensure 
the  souls^  peace  of  the  robber-knights  slain  or  hanged  by  Rudolph 
of  Hapsburg.  There  is  an  interesting  arrangement  for  shedding  the 
light  of  a  lamp  up  the  river,  and  a  similar  one  is  to  be  seen  at 
Nlederheimbach  (see  above), 

A  little  above  the  church,  on  the  same  bank,  rises  the  pictur- 
^  esque  castle  of  * JftludaBtiQm ,  260  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  It  was 
formerly  called  the  Faitzberg^  Vautsherg,  or  Voigtsberg.  Its  origin  is 
unknown,  but  it  is  mentioned  as  early  as  1279,  and  after  1348  was 
a  residence  of  Kuno  von  Falkenstein,  Archbishop  of  Tr&ves,  since 
whose  time  it  has  frequently  appeared  in  hiatory.  In  1825-29  Prince 


to  Mayenee,  ASSMANNSHAUSEN.  17,  Route,   127 

Frederick  of  Prussia  caused  the  castle  to  be  restored  in  the  mediaeval 
style;  it  now  belongs  to  Prince  Henryj)f  Prussja^  Rheinstein  is  a 
very  interesting  example  of  a  mediaeval  castle,  of  which  the  massive 
battlemented  towers  called  the  ^Bergfriede',  the  'Henenhaus',  or 
^Palas',  and  the  substantial  'Schildmauer'  on  the  side  exposed  to  attack 
are  well  represented.  A  good  collection  of  aimonr  and  antiquities  is 
shown  in  the  interior  (adm.  1  Jf,  two  or  more  pers.  50  pf.  each). 
Shady  promenades  lead  hence  to  (1-1 V2  hr.)  Bingerbriick  (p.  130). 
The  view  from  the  castle  as  well  as  from  the  St^weizerhaw  (good 
inn)  on  the  height  towards  the  S.  is  limited. 

1.  Attmannsliaaten.  —  Hotels.  *Kbonb,  B.  2V2-3,  B.  V4)  D.  21/2, 
pejxB.  6V«-6  Of;  •Ankeb,  R.  2-2V»,  B.  1,  D  21/2,  pens.  5-5V2  Jf;  •Bhbin- 
H6tkl,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  village,  opposite  the  pier,  B.  iVs-2, 
B.  1,  D.  lVs-3,  pens.  4Vs-5  Jt;  Eulbsbo,  near  the  railway  -  station, 
B.  V/z-'i-,  6.  1,  D.  iVa-S,  pens.  5-6  •#,  all  these  on  the  Rhine,  with  fine 
views.  —  Beutbbshak,  B.  IV2-2V2,  B.  »/4i  D.  1V«-2V«  »^;  Gebmahia,  plain, 
also  on  the  Bhine;  Hot.  Zahnbadbahn,  near  the  moantain  -  railway, 
without  view. 

Zahnradbahn,  or  Raek-and- Pinion  Railtoap^  to  the  top  of  the  Kieder- 
wald;  the  station  is  at  the  £.  end  of  the  village,  near  the  chnrch  (p.  187). 

Steamer  to  BUdetJ^eim  and  Binffen,  see  p.  130.  —  Motor  Launch  to 
Rheinstein  30,  there  and  back  50  pf.  —  Small  Boat  to  Loreh^  1-6  pers.  iVz  •^• 

^smannah^i^e^  (260ft. ;  railway-station,  see  p.  141),  a  village 
with  1000  inhab.,  is  celebrated  for  its  full-bodied  and  high-flavoured 
red  wine,  the  better  vintages  of  which  are  preferred  by  some-con- 
noissears  to  Burgundy,  and  realise  high  prices.  A  warm  alkaline 
spring  (90^)  here,  containing  lithia,  was  known  as  far  back  as  the 
Roman  period.   The  Ourhaus  was  built  in  1864. 

Beyond  Assmannshausen  the  steamboat  reaches  the  jtinger  Loch, 
a  rapid  caused  by  the  narrowness  of  the  rocky  channel,  the  wideri^ 
ing  of  which  has  been  the  work  of  ages ,  from  the  Roman  period 
down  to  the  most  recent  times.  The  passage  is  now  free  from  danger, 
but  only  the  Dutch  steamers  (p.  xvi)  and  the  local  boats  call  here. 
The  streain  is  too  rapid  to  permit  a  pier  to  be  erected  at  Assmanns- 
hausen. 

Above  the  rapids  rises  the  tower  of  (1.)  Bjhrenfglt,  erected  about 
1210  by  Philipp  von  Bolanden,  Governor  of^the  Rheingau,  the  fre- 
quent residence  of  the  Archbishops  of  Mayence  in  the  15th  cent., 
much  damaged  by  the  Swedes  in  1635 ,  and  finally  destroyed  by 
the  French  in  1689.  The  two  towers  are  connected  by  a  lofty  wall 
on  the  side  exposed  to  attack,  facing  the  hill. 

The  steep  slopes  of  the  Rudeaheimer  Ber^  yield  the  excellent 
wine  of  that  name ,  and  terrace  rises  above  terrace  to  secure  the 
soil  from  falling.  The  hill  is  completely  covered  with  walls  and 
arches ,  the  careful  preservation  of  which  conveys  an  idea  of  the 
value  of  the  vines.  According  to  tradition ,  Charlemagne  observed 
from  his  palace  at  Ingelheim  that  the  snow  always  melted  first  on 
the  Rildesheimer  Berg ,  and  therefore  caused  vines  to  be  brought 
from  Tramin  (near  Botzon)  and  planted  there. 

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128    Boute  17.  BINGEN.  From  Coblenz 

Opposite  the  oastle,  on  a  quaitz-rock  in  the  middle  of  the  Rhine, 
is  situated  the  Monge  Tower,  which  is  popularly  said  to  derive  its 
name  from  the  well-known  legend  of  the  crnel  Archbishop  Hatto  of 
Mayence  (914).  Having  caused  a  number  of  poor  people,  whom  he 
compared  to  mice  bent  on  devouring  the  com,  to  be  burned  in  a 
barn  during  a  famine,  he  was  attacked  by  mice,  which  tormented 
him  day  and  night.  He  sought  refuge  on  this  island,  but  was 
followed  by  his  persecutors,  and  devoured  alive.  The  tower,  how- 
ever, was  in  reality  erected  in  the  beginning  of  the  Idth  cent,  as 
a  watch-tower,  and  the  name  is  derived  from  the  old  German 
MiUthurm  (arsons^).  In  1856  the  ruins  were  again  converted  into 
a  kind  of  watch-tower,  for  making  signals  to  steamers,  which  in 
descending  the  river  are  required  to  slacken  speed  here  when  other 
vessels  are  coming  up  the  stream. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now  suddenly  expands,  and  the  district 
of  theRheingau,  which  was  once  in  all  probability  a  lake,  is  entered. 
Below  (r.)  Bingen  the  Nahe  unites  with  the  Rhine.  Bridges  over  the 
Nahe,  and  stations  of  the  Rhenish  and  Rhine-Nahe  lines  at  Binger- 
brucky  see  p.  130.  The  steamers  do  not  touch  at  Bingerbrflck.  Above 
Bingeibrilok  is  the  pavilion  on  the  Elisenhohe  (p.  130).  Over  Bingen 
rise  the  Klopp'and  the  Rochusberg,  with  its  view^tower  (p.  129). 

r.  Bingen.  —  Hotels.  On  the  Rhine  Quay:  Hotel  Viotobia,  near  the 
station,  R.  2V2-4V2,  B.  IVi*  D.  3,  pens.  5-9  •#,  good  wine  of  its  own  growing ; 
Staekbnbukgek  Hof,  R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  51/2-8  Jt;  Distbl,  R.  I3/4- 
21/2,  B.  >/«)  !>•  2f  pens.  6-672  Jtf  Dbutsohbs  Haus,  B.  iVz-S,  B.  s/4i 
D.  lVa-2,  pens,  from  5  UV,  very  fair:  G6bel,  R.  l«/4-2V2t  B.  »/4,  D.  IV2- 
2V2  •#,  also  very  fair^  ELabpfen,  R.  11/2-2  Uf,  B.  60  pf.;  Adlbb^  Geemania. 
—  In  t?ie  Townj  Golonbb  Pfldg  ,  Kapuziner^Str.  12,  near  the  market-place, 
R.  £B.  1^4-27^.  V«i  !)•  lV>'3!/3  •^>  HdTBL  o'Anqlbtbbbx,  Mainzer-Str.  9, 
very  fair  5  *Hil8dobf,  in  tlie  Speise-Markt,  B.  &  B.  2-2V2,  D.  from  IV4  •#, 
plain.  —  ♦Hotel  Roohusbkbg  (p.  129),  R.  1V»-2V2,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens.  5-6  UK, 
omnibus  from  the  station  50  pf.  —  M  Bingerbrilek :  Hohbmann,  R.  11/2-31/2, 
B.  *Ia,  D.  11/2-3  Jfi  above  the  station.  —  Bestanrimta.  Cafi-Rettaurani 
kheingoldy  on  the  Rhine  Quay  5  Cetfi  JSoherr^  at  the  Hot.  Hilsdorf  (see  above) ; 
Roehmherger  Bierhalle^  behind  the  H6t.  Rochusberg  (see  above)  ^  Railtcap 
Restaurant^  with  veranda  and  view.  —  Beer  at  the  Hdt.  dTAngleterre,  Deuteehes 
Baus,  Oermania  (see  above).  —  OonfeotionerB.  Eeilmann^  RUeker^  both  on 
the  Rhine  Quay/—  -  — ^ 

Electric  Tramways :  1.  From  Bingen  Railway  Station^  past  the  Ferry 
Station,  to  BingerhrUck.   —  2.  From  Bingen  Railway  Station  to  Biidesheim. 

Steam  Ferry  Boat  CTrajecf)  to  RUdesheim  (p.  130),  about  28  times  daily 
from  Bingen  and  about  15  times  daily  from  BingerbrUek  viH  Bingen 
(fares  20,  10  pf.).  —  Steamer  to  Assmannehausen  and  Rudetheimy  see  p.  130. 

Boats.  To  the  House  Tower,  1-2  pers.  11/2  •#,  each  additional  pers. 
25  pf.;  to  Assmannshausen,  1-6  pers.  SJl;  to  Rheinstein  and  Assmanns- 
hausen,  with  2  hrs\  stay  at  the  former,  6  Jf.  —  Batha  in  the  Rhine. 

Oarriages.  To  the  Rochus-Capelle  and  back,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  41/21 
3-4  pers.  b  Jf;  two-horse  1-2  pers.  6,  3-4  pers.  6  UV;  to  the  Scharlachkopf 
and  back,  one-horse  5  or  6  UV,  two -horse  6  or  7  Uf;  to  Rheinstein  and 
back,  6,  7,  &  8  Uif. 

Railway  to  ifayence  and  Coblenz  ^  see  R.  19  ^  to  Ereuznach  and  Saar- 
hrUckenf  see  R.  23.  —  The  Railway  Statiou  at  Bingen  is  near  the  upper  end 
of  the  town. 

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to  Mayence.  BINGEN.  17,  Route,   129 

Sim^  (^0  ft.)t  a  Hessian  district-town  with  9670  inhab., 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Nahe  and  Rhine,  was  known  to  the 
Romans,  who  elected  a  castle  here,  at  the  point  whence  their  military 
roads  to  Cologne  and  Treves  diverged.  In  70  A.D.  a  battle  was  fought 
at  Bingium  between  the  Romans  and  the  Gauls.  In  the  middle  ages 
it  was  a  free  town  of  the  empire  and  one  of  the  earliest  members  of 
the  confederation  of  Rhenish  towns  (p.  166).  During  the  Thirty 
Years'  War  it  was  repeatedly  captured,  and  in  1689  it  was  almost 
totally  destroyed  by  the  French.  Bingen  carries  on  a  large  trade  in 
wine,  and  its  recent  prosperity  is  testified  by  its  new  winter- 
harbour,  quays,  and  embankments.  'It  is  the  seat  of  the  Rhenish 
Technical  CoUege  (900  students)  and  of  an  Industrial  School.  The 
late-Gothic  Pfarrkirche,  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  a  Romanesque  crypt 
of  the  11th,  has  been  modernised.  The  Gothic  font  dates  from  the 
15th  century. 

Above  the  town,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Roman  fortress,  rises 
the  castle  of  Eopp^  which  was  destroyed  by  th6  French  in  1689, 
but  has  been  tasteMly  restored  and  extended  since  1854.  It  now 
accommodates  the  municipal  offices.  The  tower  and  terrace  afford 
a  beautiful  view.  The  tower  contains  a  collection  of  antiquities 
(adm.  20  pf.).  The  moat  is  now  laid  out  as  a  garden.  The  Goeben- 
Strasse,  the  Schloss-Strasse,  and  the  Rochus-Strasse  (beyond  the 
Hdtel  d'Angleterre)  ascend  to  it  from  the  Rhine.  Emp.  Henry  IV. 
was  seized  here  at  Christmas,  1105,  by  his  treacherous  son 
(afterwards  Henry  V.),  who  carried  him  captive  to  the  castle  of 
Bockelheim  (p.  170). 

The  finest  point  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bingen  is  the  "gochua- 
J^erg,  with  the  Rochus  r  Capelle  and  the  ^charlachkopfj  each  about 
72"  A  ^^*  ^^^^  the  town.  The  routes  thither  are  all  provided  with 
guide-posts.  From  the  castle  of  Klopp  we  may  proceed  direct  via 
the  Mariahilf-Strasse  and  the  Rupertus-Strasse.  At  the  top  we 
reach  the  Hdtel  Roehusberg  (p.  128),  with  a  veranda,  commanding 
a  fine  view,  and  thence  we  follow  the  road  on  the  margin  of  wood 
(or  through  the  woods,  below,  passing  a  round  dove-cot),  which 
leads  to  the  chapel  in  8  min.  more. 

The  y^eji^-Capelle,  a  chapel  on  the  E.  brow  of  the  Roehusberg, 
was  built  in  lb??  iiT  memory  of  the  plague  of  1666,  struck  by 
lightning  and  burnt  to  the  ground  in  1889,  and  handsomely  rebuilt 
in  1889-94  in  a  late-Gothic  style  from  plans  by  Meckel.  At  the 
festival  of  St.  Roch  (first  Sunday  after  16th  Aug.),  charmingly  de- 
scribed by  Goethe,  thousands  of  persons  congregate  here  and  celebrate 
certain  solemnities,  to  which  open-air  dances,  music,  and  feasting 
form  a  lively  sequel.  —  The  Kempter  Eck,  4  min.  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
chapel  f  commands  a  fine  view  over  the  whole  of  the  Rheingau 
(p.  131). 

From  the  Hdtel  Roehusberg  a  shady  path  leads  in  20  min.  to  the 
Scharlaohkopf  (810  ft.),  the  highest  point  of  the  Roehusberg,  the 

Basdbksb's  Rhine.  15th  Edit.  9  •       - 


130  Route  Z7.  RUDESHEIM.  From  Cohlen% 

S.  slopes  of  which,  situated  in  the  district  of  Budesheim^YiBld.  the 
fiery  Scharlaehberger  wine.  A  fine  view  of  the  Nahe  Valley,  the 
Tannus,  and  the  Bheingau  is  obtained  from  the  KaUer  Friedrich 
Thurm  on  the  top,  69  ft  high. 

Near  its  mouth  the  Nahe  is  crossed  by  a  Railway  Bridge,  which 
is  also  open  to  carriages  and  foot-passengers.  The  old  Bridge j  with 
its  seven  arches,  about  ^2  ^-  f&rther  up,  is  built  on  the  foundations 
of  an  old  Roman  bridge,  and  has  been  repeatedly  restored.  Below 
the  bridge  is  an  underground  Romanesque  chapel.  —  Above  the  old 
bridge  the  Hunsruck  road  ascends  to  the  Rondell,  a  fine  point  of  view. 

On  the  left  or  Prussian  bank  of  the  Nahe,  on  the  Ruppertsberg, 
lies  Bingerbrock  (hotels,  see  p.  128),  a  village  with  1500  inhab., 
and  the  Jtation^f  the  Rhine  and  Nahe  Railway  (p.  166).  A  Bene- 
dictine nunnery,  formerly  situated  on  the  Ruppertsberg,  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  Swedes  in  1632. 

The  Eli— nh5ha  (880  ft.;  pavilioii),  reached  from  Bingerbriick  station 
in  Vs  hr.j  commanos  a  fine  view  of  the  Bheingau  and  the  Niederwald.  -^ 
Other  good  points  of  view  are  the  PrinzenJcopf  and'  ftfrther^,  the  Dcamkmt' 
k(>pfy  between  Bingerbriick  and  Rheinstein.  —  From  the  Damianskopf  a 
path  leads  to  the  ScJueeiterhatu  (Vaitsberger  Hof,  Burg  Rheinstein,  aee 
p.  127)  in  *U  hr. 

On  the  E.  bank,  nearly  opposite  Bingen,  lies  Rudesheim,  of 
wine-growing  celebrity. 

1.  Bfl^^sheim.  —  Hotels,  all  in  the  Rhein-Str.  (some  closed  in  winter). 
♦DAKk^riDTKB  HOP,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  B.  3,  pens,  from  6  *#;  Juno,  at  the 
station,  R.  2Vx-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens,  from  67*  Uf;  *£hbhabd,  R.  2-3,  B.  1, 
D.  2Vs  Uf'  —  •Weil,  with  frequented  restaurant,  D.  iV2-2.#;  *Rheih- 
STEiN,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/8-4,  pens,  from  Ci^/tJif;  •H6tel  Kbass,  R.  2-3, 
B.  1,  D.  from  3  U»;  DSbhofek,  R.  2-6,  B.  1,  D.  3-3,  pens.  5-6  U»,  well 
ipoken  X)i\  Bbllevub,  R.  1V8-2,  B.  1,  D.  from  IVs,  pens,  from  6  •#; 
Tbaube,  R.  a  B.  2V«,  D.  lV8-3Ulf,  w«U  spoken  of;  Fadlhabbk,  plain. 
Several  of  the  hotels  have  good  wine  of  their  own  growing. 

Beitauranti  and  Wxae  Booms  at  the  HoUU  and  at  the  Bkenith  BtaiUm; 
Rheinhalle,  opposite,  on  the  Rhine  (closed  in  winter);  Mettemicher  Hof 
(wine  of  the  Winzer-Verein) ,  behind  the  Hot.  Jung;  */.  F.  Moo» ,  on  the 
Rhine,  D.  (12-4  p.m.)  2-2V4  UV;  Joh.  MUller,  Drosselgasse  5 ;  Ehrhard't  Old 
German  Wine  Room,  at  the  station  of  the  Zahnradhahn,  D.  (12-2)  from  2  Jf. 
—  Beer:  Weil  (see  above);  Krone^  Rhein-Str.;  Zengler,  on  the  Rhine; 
ScheUhaat;  HiOskOttery  these  three  near  the  Zahnradbi^. 

Baths.    Two  establishments  on  the  Rhine. 

Carriages  to  the  Niederwald,  see  p.  136:  carr.  with  two  horses  to 
Schloss  Johannisberg  for  1-2  pers.  5,  3-4  pers.  o.^tliere^nd  backhand  8  Jt. 

Zahnradhahn  to  the  Niederwald,  see  p.  136.  The  station  is  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  town,  Vs  H.  from  the  Rhenish  railway -station  and 
from  the  pier  of  the  Dutch  steamers,  and  1/4  H.  from  the  pier  of  the 
Cologne  and  Du9seldorf  boats-    Omnibus  between  the  stations,  10  pf. 

Steam  Ferry  Boat  to  Bingen  and  BingerWUck,  starting  from  the  lower 
end  of  the  town,  near  the  station  (passage  under  the  railway),  see  p.  128.  — 
Steamer  to  Bingen  and  Aumanmhaueeny  see  p.  128. 

Boats  from  Rudesheim  to  Bingen,  1  - 10  persons  1  •# ;  Bingerbriick, 
1-5  persons. 2  Jt^  for  each  additional  pers.  10  pf.,  trunk  10  pf. ;  to  Assmanns- 
hausen  1-6  pers.  3  UV,  each  additional  pers.  10  pf. ;  to  Rheinstein  and  Ass- 
mannshausen  5  Jt. 

Rudesheim  (255  ft.),  a  district-town  with  4800  inhab.,  most  of 
whom  live  by  the  culture  of  the  vine,  lies  in  a  sunny  situation  at 


to  Mayenee.  bODESHEIM.  17.  RouU.   131 

the  S.  base  of  the  Niederwald  (p.  136),  at  the  point  where  the 
valley  of  the  Rhine  expands  mto  the  broad  basin  of  the  Rheingau. 
The  celebrated  wine  of  the  place  can  boast  the  longest  pedigree  on 
the  Rhine,  though  some  of  its  brethren  of  the  Rheingau  are  now 
considered  superior.  The  best  sorts  are  yielded  by  the  vineyards 
behind  the  town,  called  the  HinUrhaus,  the  Bottland,  close  to  the 
station,  and  those  of  the  Berg  (p.  12T)  extending  below  the  town 
to  Ehrenfels. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  are  the  Protestant  Churchy  built  in 
1855,  and  the  late-Gothic  Adlerthurm,  a  relic  of  the  old  fortifica- 
tions. Adjacent  is  the  station  of  the  Niederwald  railway  (p.  137).  — 
The  Gothic  Church  of  8t,  James  (Rom.  Oath.),  in  the  market-place, 
built  about  1390-1400,  has  interesting  paintings  from  the  Passion 
on  the  vaulting  (ca.  1400),  and  contains  an  elaborate  late-Renais- 
sance altar  (ca.  1590)  and  two  fine  Renaissance  monuments  of  the 
Bromsers  of  Rudesheim  (1543  and  1567),  one  of  the  most  distin- 
guished knightly  families  on  the  Rhine,  which  became  extinct  in  1678. 

The  Vorderburgy  a  fragment  of  a  square  tower  near  the  market- 
place, 33  ft.  in  height,  is  a  relic  of  one  of  the  three  castles  of  Rudes- 
heim. At  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the  Rhenish  station,  rises 
the  Bromserhurg^  or  properly  the  Niederhurg^  the  property  of  Count 
Ingelheim,  a  massive  rectangular  structure.  In  the  10-1 2th  cent,  it 
belonged  to  the  Archbishops  of  Mayenee  and  it  afterwards  became 
the  seat  of  the  Knights  of  RQdeshelm,  who  became  extinct  in  1548. 
The  Oberburg,  or  Boosenburg^  behind  the  Bromserburg,  was  entirely 
rebuilt  in  1868,  with  the  exception  of  the  keep. 

The  Bromserhofy  a  mansion  of  the  15-17th  cent,  (now  a  char- 
itable institution),  in  the  Obergasse,  has  a  pointed  tower  covered 
with  slates  and  contains  ancient  frescoes  (1558). 

From  Rfldesheim  to  the  ruin  of  EhrmfeU  (p.  127),  i/s  1^'> 

A  pleasant  walk  mav  be  taken  to  the  N.W.  to  (17*  hr.)  the  forester^s 
house  of  Kammerfora  (1520  ft.',  restaurant  with  rooms,  pens.  4  Jif),  near  the 
Teufelskadrich  (p.  126).  From  Eammerforst  a  broad  path  leads  through 
the  wood  to  torch.    Gomp.  Map,  p.  128. 


At  RMesheim  begins  the  *  Rheingau,  a  rich  and  beautiful 
district,  which  produces  some  of  the  most  famous  and  costly  wines 
in  the  world.  The  name  is  now  applied  to  the  tract  on  the  E.  (here 
N.)bank  of  the  Rhine  between  Rudesheim  and  Niederwalluf,  about 
12  M.  in  length  and  5  M.  in  breadth.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Archbishopric  of  Mayenee  and  extended  down  the  river  as  far  as 
Lorch.  It  was  once  completely  enclosed  by  the  *  Oebuck\  a  densely 
interwoven  and  impenetrable  belt  of  trees  about  50  paces  in  width. 

A  *Walk  through  the  Bheingau  may  be  taken  as  follows.  From 
Eltville  to  (2V4  M.)  Kiedrieh  (p.  135) ,  and  then  past  the  lunatic  asylum 
of  Bithberg  to  (3  M.)  Eberbach:  thence  over  the  Bot  and  past  the  Steinberg 
to  (2V4  M.)  Ballgarteny  and  vi&  Sehloge  Vollrad*  to  (3  M.)  Joharmisberg ; 
then  back  to  the  Rhine  at  (1V2  M.)  OeUenheim.  An  excursion  should  alAO 
be  made  from  Bltville  to  the  Bubenhdueer  Hohe  and  Rauenthal  (see  p.  142). 

9*       ^ 


132   Route  17.  JOHANNISBEKG.  From  Coblen% 

On  the  summit  of  tlie  Niederwald,  to  the  left,  rises  the  National 
Monument  (p.  137).  —  After  passing  Kempten  and  (rail,  stat.) 
Oaulsheirrij  we  reach  — 

1.  Geisenheim  (♦JPranfc/'urter  Hof,  R.IV2-2V2,  B.  3/^-1,  D.  1-3, 
pens.  4-6V2  •^»"  I^euUchea  Haus  ,  pens.  4  Jif;  G'ermania,  un- 
pretending), a  pleasant  little  town  with  3800inhah.,  mentioned 
in  histoiy  as  early  as  the  8th  century,  and  now  boasting  of  a  numhez 
of  country-houses.  The  late- Gothic  Church,  completed  in  1518,  has 
a  conspicuous  portal,  and  open  towers  of  red  sandstone  added  by 
Hoffmann  in  1838;  the  interior  was  modernised  in  1746-62.  The 
adjoining  tower  (100  ft.  high)  belongs  to  a  factory  of  sparkling  wine. 
The  Rathhaus  was  erected  in  1856.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  town 
are  a  new  Romanesque  church  and  the  mansions  of  Counts  Ir^gelheim 
and  Schoenbom.  At  the  W. ,  or  lower,  entrance  to  the  town  is  the 
villa  Monrepos  of  Herr  von  Lade ,  with  an  interesting  garden  and 
orchards.  Near  the  station  is  the  CEnological  an,d  Pomological  Aca- 
demy j  a  government-institution  for  the  scientific  instruction  of 
wine  and  fruit  growers.  Behind  rises  the  red  Rotheberg,  the  slopes 
of  which  produce  the  best  Geisenheim  wine. 

On  the  hill  behind  Geisenheim,  near  Eibingen  (446  ft.  •,  Seh^er's  Tavern), 
rises  the  old  nunnery  of  that  name,  founded  in  1148  and  secularised  in  1802; 
a  little  to  the  N.  is  the  new  nunnery  of  St.  Hildegard  (1901).  Farther  to 
the  N.E.,  on  the  hillside,  are  the  remains  of  the  Capuchin  convent  of  Noth- 
gottet  (Agonia  Domini)^  founded  in  1621,  now  a  form.  About  */a  M.  to  the 
!N.  (21/4  M.  from  Biidesheim)  is  the  former  monastery  of  Marienthal. 

1.  Schloss  Johannisberg,  a  conspicuous  point  in  the  landscape, 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  vine -clad  eminence,  340  ft.  above  the 
Rhine,  may  be  reached  in  8/4  hr.  by  good  roads  either  from  Geisen- 
heim or  from  Winkel  (p.  133).  The  extensive  chateau  was  erected 
in  1757-59  by  the  Prince- Abbot  of  Fulda,  on  the  site  of  an  old 
Benedictine  monastery  founded  by  Archbishop  Ruthard  in  1090.  In 
1802,  on  the  suppression  of  the  Abbey  of  Fulda  (which  purchased 
the  Johannisberg  from  Mayence  in  1716),  the  castle  became  the 
property  of  the  Prince  of  Orange,  in  1807  it  was  presented  by  Na- 
poleon to  Marshal  Kellermann,  and  in  1816  it  was  conferred  by  the 
Emp.  of  Austria  as  an  imperial  flef  on  Prince  Clemens  of  Metter- 
nich,  who  did  not  fully  recognise  the  sovereignty  of  the  Duke  of 
Nassau  tUl  1851.  The  far-famed  vineyards  (comp.  p.  xxii),  in  area 
about  65  acres,  yielding,  in  ?ood  years,  an  income  of  7000^.,  are 
most  carefully  cultivated,  and  take  the  lead  among  the  vineyards  of 
the  Rhine,  although  of  late  years  there  has  been  a  great  rivalry  be- 
tween the  wines  of  Johannisberg  and  Steinberg  (p.  134).  Visitors 
are  not  admitted  to  the  interior  of  the  chateau,  though,  when  the 
family  is  absent,  they  may  enjoy  the  striking  view  from  the  terrace 
in  front.  (Good  Johannisberger  may  be  procured  from  the  steward  at 
41/2  •^  *ii^  upwards  per  bottle.)  The  Chapel  of  the  chateau,  con- 
secrated in  1130,  rebuilt  In  1717-30,  and  modernised  in  the 
19th  century,  contains  the  tomb  of  the  Rhenish  his^rian  Nicholas 

.^dbyGoOg 


to  Mayenee.  HATTENHEIM.  17.  Route,    133 

Vogt  (d.  1836),  the  tutor  of  Prince  Metternich.  —  To  the  E.  of 
the  chateau,  on  the  road  to  Winkel,  is  the  Tilla  of  Herr  von  Mumm 
of  Frankfort.  —  On  the  Hanselberg,  a  hill  lower  down  the  Rhine, 
a  little  below  Johannisberg,  is  the  Villa  Bauer. 

A  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  Schloss  we  reach  Dorf  Johannis- 
berg (*Zum  Sehloss  Johannisberg).  To  the  S.W.  is  Johannisberg  im 
Qrund  (Ranter's  Tavern),  a  village  with  a  large  manufactory  of 
printing-presses.  Near  it,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schloss,  lies  the  ^Klause\ 
the  remains  of  a  nunnery  founded  about  1150,  and  suppressed  in 
1452.   Fine  view  of  Ingelheim  (p.  140)  to  the  left. 

I.  Winkel  (Rheingauer  Hof^  with  garden ;  Diking)  and  Mitttl- 
heim  together  form  one  long  street,  so  long  that  Goethe  has  described 
it  as  very  trying  to  the  patience.  Near  the  Rhine  is  the  Oraue  Haus^ 
in  the  Romanesque  style  (11th.  cent.?).  At  the  W.  extremity  is 
situated  the  country-house  of  Herr  Brentano,  mentioned  along  with 
GK>ethe  in  Bettina  von  Arnim's  ^Correspondence  of  a  Child',  where 
memorials  of  the  poet  are  still  preserved. 

At  (1.)  Oestrich  (Steinheimerj  Schwany  both  on  the  Rhine ;  beer 
at  WirikeVs)  the  inhabitants  of  the  Rheingau  formerly  swore  fealty 
to  each  newly-elected  Archbishop  of  Mayenee,  who  was  obliged  first 
to  confirm  the  privileges  of  the  people.  The  village  (2000  inhab.) 
with  its  projecting  crane,  and  the  Johannisberg  in  the  background, 
affords  a  pleasant  picture. 

On  the  slope  behind  Oestrich  lies  Hallgarten  (666  ft. ;  irr«mer,  plain), 
in  the  midst  of  vineyards  *,  near  it  is  the  well-preserved  ch&teau  of  Voll- 
rads,  probably  erected  in  1362  by  a  member  of  the  OreiffenJtlau  family,  in 
whose  possession  it  still  is.  Above  Hallgarten  (1  hr.)  rises  the  Hallgarter 
Zange  (1900  ft. ;  inn),  with  a  view-tower. 

Before  reaching  (1.)  Hattenheim  (*ResSy  on  the  Rhine,  R.  from 
i%  D.  from  iysJf;  l^eer  at  NolVs),  a  village  of  1300  inhab.,  with 
extensive  cellars  for  the  storage  of  wine,  the  road  passes  Schloss 
Reiehartshauseny  in  a  small  park,  1  M.  from  Oestrich. 

A  road  leads  inland  from  Hattenheim  to  the  (2V4  M.)  once  celebrated 
and  richly-endowed  Cistercian  Abbey  of  Eberbaoh  (restaurant  at  the  entrance), 
founded  in  1116,  erected  into  an  abbey  by  St.  Bernard  of  Glairvaux  in  1131, 
and  situated  in  one  of  those  sequestered  valleys  which  this  order  always 
selected  for  their  monasteries.  (^Bemardus  valles,  montes  Benedictus  amabat, 
oppida  Franciscus,  celebres  Ignatius  urbes.') 

The  Abbey  (adm.  1-3  pers.  60  pf.,  more  1  Jl;  the  door-keeper  and  the 
cellerman  who  acts  as  guide  also  expect  a  fee),  secularised  in  1803,  and  now 
used  as  a  prison ,  was  built  at  various  periods  from  the  12th  to  the 
15th  century.  The  extremely  plain  architecture  of  the  Romanesque  Abbey 
Church,  consecrated  in  118o  and  recently  restored,  is  characteristic  of 
the  earliest  days  of  the  Oistercian  Order ;  it  contains  a  number  of  *Mon' 
umentSy  most  of  them  of  abbots  of  the  12-18th  centuries.  The  €K>thic 
monument  which  encloses  the  tombs  of  Gerlach,  Archbishop  of  Mayenee 
(d.  1371),  and  Adolph  II.  of  Kassau  (d.  1474),  particularly  deserves  in- 
spection. The  so-called  Refectory  of  the  13th  cent,  (more  probably  the  In- 
firmary),  now  occupied  by  wine-presses,  the  Gothic  Chapter  House  of  the 
close  of  the  14th  cent,  (restored),  the  large  Dormitory  (partly  altered),  and 
a  part  of  the  cloisters  which  is  still  preserved  are  all  deserving  of  notice. 
The  vaults  below  these  buildings  are  used  as  wine-cellars.  The  im- 
portant wine-auctions  which  take  place  here  every  spring  are  attended  by 
all  the  most  noted  Rhenish  wine-merchants.  Digitized  by  GoOqIc 


134  BouU  17.  ELTVnXE.  From  Coblewt 

Close  to  the  abbey  is  the  celebrated  Steinberg  vineyard,  00  acres  in 
area,  which  was  carefully  cultivated  by  the  industrious  monks  of  Eber- 
bach  from  the  12th  to  the  19th  century,  and  is  now  the  property  of 
government.  The  vines  are  tended  with  even  greater  care  than  those 
on  the  Johannisberg,  and  their  produce  is  not  less  highly  esteemed.  The 
Boa  (an  old  word  for  ^hilF),  an  eminence  close  to  the  monastery,  880  ft. 
above  the  sea-level,  with  a  refage-hut,  commands  a  magnificent  prospect, 
embracing  the  Steinberg  vineyard.  To  the  £.  of  the  Eberbach  valley, 
conspicuously  situated  on  a  hill,  is  the  extensive  Lunatic  Agylutn  of 
Eiehherg. 

Between  Hattenheim  and  Erbach  lie  the  Islands  of  SandaUf 
connected  with  the  left  bank,  and  WeatphaUn" ache  AUy  oi  Rheinau, 
To  the  left  of  the  road  between  these  villages  is  the  Marco- 
hrunnen  ('boundary-well') ,  near  which  are  the  vineyards  yielding 
Marcobrunner,  one  of  the  most  highly  prized  Rhenish  wines,  and 
chiefly  belonging  to  Count  Schonborn.  The  different-coloured  posts 
indicate  the  limits  of  the  various  properties ;  the  white  posts  mark 
the  lands  belonging  to  government. 

1.  Erbach  (Engel,  well  spoken  of,  good  wine ;  Wallfischj  plain ; 
Nasaauer  Hof),  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  980,  is  partly  con- 
cealed from  the  steamboat -passenger  by  the  island  of  Rheinau, 
IY2  M.  in  length.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  village  is  the  chateau  of 
Reifihartahauien^  the  property  of  Prince  Albert  of  Prussia,  containing 
a  collection  of  pictures  and  sculptures ;  open  from  1st  May  to  30th 
Sept.  on  week-days,  10-6  (adm.  1  Jif,  for  a  charitable  object). 

1.  Eltyille.  —  HotelB.  "HStsl  Beisbnbaoh,  at  the  station,  B.  IV2-2, 
D.  11/2  2  •#;  iUiNZKB  HoF,  Wilhelm-Str.  13,  at  the  station,  both  with  re- 
staurants. —  Beer  at  Cralz'ty  in  the  town.  —  Bath»  in  the  Bhine.  —  The 
pier  is  1/4  ^*  from  the  railway-station,  where  also  the  steam-tramway  to 
Schlangenbad  (p.  1^)  starts. 

EUvilU  or  Elfeld  (290  ft.),  with  3700  inhab.  and  many  hand- 
some villas,  was  known  in  the  middle  ages  as  AttaviUa  and  was  once 
the  capital  of  the  Rheingau.  The  German  king  Gunther  of  Schwarz- 
burg  resigned  his  dignity  here  in  1349,  when  besieged  and  hard 
pressed  by  his  opponent  Charles  IV.  In  the  14th  and  15th  cent. 
EltviUe  was  a  residence  of  the  Archbishops  of  Mayence,  to  which 
they  often  resorted  to  escape  from  civic  broils. 

Near  the  pier  are  the  formerly  archiepiscopal  institutions  of 
8t,  Peter  and  8t.  Victory  which  now,  like  the  Martina-Thurm,  the 
last  relic  of  the  town-gates,  belong  to  Count  Eltz.  —  The  Caatle, 
erected  in  1332-50  by  Baldwin,  Archbishop  of  Treves,  then  governor 
of  Mayence,  was  destroyed  in  1635,  with  the  exception  of  the  keep, 
the  watch-tower,  and  the  moat;  the  'Palas*  is  now  used  as  a  wood- 
store.  —  The  Gothic  Churchy  built  in  1353,  contains  a  canopy  of 
the  15th  cent.,  a  font  of  1517,  and  several  Renaissance  tombs. 

The  Lichtenstem  Houaey  in  the  main  street,  is  a  notable  Renais- 
sance structure  of  1670  (upper  story  rebuilt).  In  the  garden  is  a 
late-Gothic  dwelling-house,  formerly  known  as  the  5anccfc«rJIo^  — 
The  Fruhmeaaerei  is  designated  by  a  tablet  as  the  house  where  the 
brothers  BechtermQntze  established  a  printing-prei^  about  1460 

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to  Mayence.  BIEBRICH.  17.  Route.   135 

(probably  with  the  aid  of  their  kinsman  Gutenberg,  p.  163) ;  bnt 
the  Molsberger  Hof  seems  to  be  more  entitled  to  that  honour. 

A  charming  excursion  may  be  made  from  Eltville  to  the  (s/4  hr.) 
Bubenhduter  Bdhe  and  (i  hr.)  Rauenthal;  comp.  p.  112. 

About  IS/4  M.  to  the  N.W.,  concealed  amidst  vine-clad  hills,  lies  the  large 
village  of  Kiedrich  (440ft. ^  Engel;  Krone;  Burg  Scharfmttein,  moderate), 
a  resort  of  pilgrims.  The  Gk)thic  church  of  St.  Valentine  (14-15th  cent.)i 
restored  in  1874,  with  a  pulpit  of  1493  and  other  works  of  art,  and  the  chapel 
of  *8t.  Michael^  erected  in  1440-44  in  the  ornate  late-Gothic  style,  restored  in 
1858,  merit  a  visit;  and  there  are  many  picturesque  half-timbered  houses. 
Near  Kiedrich  is  the  Ord/enbergj  one  of  the  most  celebrated  vineyards  o* 
the  Rheingau ;  it  is  crowned  by  the  castle  of  8charfen»tein^  which  was 
erected  by  the  Archbishops  of  Hayence  at  the  close  of  the  12th  cent., 
dismantled  by  the  Swedes  in  1632,  and  finally  by  the  French  in  1682.  A 
mineral  spring  rising  near  Kiedrich  resembles  the  Wiesbaden  springs,  but 
its  temperature  is  much  lower.  —  Kiedrich  is  1V«  M.  from  Eberbach 
(p.  138)  via  Eichberg. 

Beyond  Eltville  several  more  villas  are  passed,  the  most  conspicu- 
ous of  which  are  Burg  Crass^  with  a  garden-restaurant,  Villa  Rhein- 
herg^  and  the  SteinheimerHofj  the  last  belonging  to  the  Grand-Duke 
of  Luxembourg.  The  island  opposite,  called  the  EltvilUr  Au,  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  large  farm. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhine  is  Budenheim  (p.  140). 

1.  Niederwallnf  (*jfifcAtDan,  on  the  Rhine,  with  garden  and  view, 
much  frequented  by  visitors  from  Mayence  and  Wiesbaden,  R.  2-4, 
B.  1 ,  D.  21/2,  S.  1V2»  pens.  51/2  UJT,-  H6t.  Gartenfeld,  also  with 
garden,  very  fair;  Zur  Schonen  Aussicht,  at  the  station),  a  place  with 
1200  inhab.,  mentioned  as  early  as  770,  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Waldaffa  or  WaUuf,  near  the  ancient  E.  boundary  of  the  Rheingau 
(p.  131).  The  OuranttcUt  Reineck  (pens.  56-80  pf.  per  week)  is  for 
nervous  and  other  sufferers. 

.  1.  Schierstein  (Seipel;  Drei  Kronen^  both  very  fairj,  an  old 
village,  with  a  manufactory  of  sparkling  wine  and  a  large  river- 
harbour,  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  orchard.  —  About  IY2  M. 
inland  is  the  ruin  of  Frauensteiriy  with  the  viUage  of  that  name 
fGoldenes  Ross);  i/4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  latter  is  the  Spitze  Stein 
(835' ;  p.  143),  with  extensive  view. 

1.  Biebrich.  —  HoteU.  •H6tel  Bellbvue,  above  the  pier,  R.  lVa-2V2, 
B.  1,  lJnV«-3,^pens.  from  6  Jf;  HOtel  Nassau,  B.  A  B.  from  3,  D.  2, 
pens,  from  6  •#;  Kkonb,  similar  charges,  all  three  with  gardens  on  the 
Rhine. 

Railway  Stations.  That  of  the  Taunus  Railway  (for  Castel  and  Frank- 
fort) lies  on  the  Rhine,  200  yds.  above  the  pier  \  that  of  the  Railway  of 
the  Right  Bank  (Wiesbaden;  the  Rheingau)  is  at  Hosbach  (p.  142),  near 
the  K.B.  gate  of  the  park. 

Electric  Tramway  from  the  steamboat -pier  to  Wiesbaden  (Beausite), 
see  p.  117.  —  Local  Steamer  to  Mayence,  see  p.  165;  pier  below  that  of 
the  large  steamers. 

Birer  Batha :  BuUiu^  SchneiderMhn^  both  on  the  Rettbergs-Aue. 

Biebrich  (280  ft),  the  steamboat-station  for  Wiesbaden,  and  now 
forming  with  Moshach  (p.  142)  one  town  of  15,000  inhab.,  is  a 
busy  place,  with  various  manufactories.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
town  Is  a  School  for  Non-Commissioned  Officers,  ancUat  the,  lower 

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136    RouUlS.  NIEDERWALD. 

is  the  former  Palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Nassau,  now  in  the  possession 
of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Luxembourg,  completed  in  1706  in  the  Re- 
naissance style.  The  extensive  *Park  contains  a  splendid  chestnut 
avenue  and  other  flue  trees.  The  Moosburg,  a  miniature  castle  in 
the  park,  built  in  1806  in  the  medieval  style,  occupies  the  site 
of  the  imperial  palace  of  Biburk ,  where  Louis  the  German  resided 
in  874  (no  admission).  —  From  Biebrich  to  Wiesbaden ,  vi4  the 
Biebrich  Water  Tower  (fine  view),  see  p.  153. 

Opposite  Biebrich  lies  the  Rtttbergs-Au  and  on  the  left  bank, 
lower  down,  is  Amonebergy  the  first  Hessian  village,  with  cement 
and  chemical  works.  The  steamboat  next  passes  between  two  is- 
lands, the  Ingelheimer  Au  (restaurant  in  the  hunting-lodge),  now 
connected  with  the  mainland  to  form  the  new  winter-harbour  of 
Mayence  (p.  159),  on  the  right,  and  on  the  left  the  Peters- AUy  over 
which  passes  the  new  railway  -  bridge  (930  yds.  long;  built  in 
1901-8)  of  the  Mayence  and  Wiesbaden  line.  On  the  Peters  Au, 
at  his  summer  -  residence ,  the  Emp.  Louis  the  Pious,  son  and 
successor  of  Charlemagne,  expired  in  840.  His  body  was  conveyed 
to  Metz  and  interred  there.  On  the  Ingelheimer  Aue  are  the  new 
electric  works  of  Mayence. 

The  steamboat-pier  at  Mayence  is  above  the  imposing  new  bridge, 
through  the  central  arch  of-which  the  steamer  passes. 

Mayence,  see  R.  22. 


18.  The  Niederwald. 

Se4  also  Mapy  p.  128, 

Zahnradbahnen  (Rack-and-Pinion  Railways).  From  RUdtsheim  to  the 
IConument  on  the  17iederwald,  and  from  Assmannshausen  to  the  Jagdschloss 
in  10-14  min.  (fares,  ascent  1  Ul,  descent  50  pf.)*  The  former  line  is  usually 
open  from  April  to  the  end  of  Oct.,  the  latter  from  the  middle  of  April  to 
the  end  of  Sept.  only. 

Oarriage«and-Fair  from  Biidesheim  to  the  Klederwald  Monument  and 
Jagdschloss  in  2  hrs.,  1-2  pers.  6,  S4  pers.  7  •#,  descending  to  Assmanns- 
hausen,  9  or  10  •#  ;  the  same,  returning  along  the  Rhine,  10  or  11  «# ;  from 
Assmannshausen  to  the  Niederwald  5  «#;  hy  the  Niederwa)^  and  Johannis- 
berg  to  Riidesheim  17  Jt. 

Steamer  six  times  dallv  in  summer  between  Assmannshausen,  Bingen, 
and  Biidesheim;  fares  60,  86  pf. 

With  the  assistance  of  the  mountain-railway,  li/z-S  hrs.  are  suffi- 
cient for  a  visit  to  the  Niederwald  (Btldesheim,  the  monument,  the  Rossel, 
the  Jagdschloss,  and  Assmannshausen,  or  in  the  reverse  order).  Walkers 
also  require  little  more  than  2  hrs.,  although  in  both  cases  more  time 
may  be  profitably  devoted  to  the  excursion. 

The  *iriederwald  (1080  ft.),  a  wooded  hill,  clothed  with 
vineyards  on  its  S.  slopes,  which  are  known  as  the  'RCldesheimer 
Berg'  (p.  127),  rises  from  the  Rhine  at  the  point  where  the  river  quits 
the  Rheingau  and  suddenly  turns  towards  the  N.  It  lies  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  narrow  part  of  the  river,  which  begins  at  the  Seven  Mts., 
and  vies  with  the  latter  as  a  point  of  attraction  to  excursionists. 

.^dbyGoOg 


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Nat  Monument.  NIEDERWALD.  18,  Route.   137 

FbOM    RtDBSHEIM    (p.  130)    TO    THB    NiBDBEWALD   MONTJMBNT. 

Most  travellers  now  use  tlie  Rack-and-Pinion  Railway  (see  p.  136 ; 
station,  p.  130),  which  ascends  gently  through  vineyards,  to  the 
terminus  (Jung's  Restaurant),  about  3  min.  from  the  monument  and 
near  an  old  view-temple.  The  gradient  is  at  first  1:12;  at  the  top, 
before  the  wood  is  entered,  1 :  5. 

Walkers  reach  the  monument  in  8/4  hr.  either  by  a  sunny  path 
through  the  vineyards  to  the  N.  of  the  railway-station  (closed  when 
the  grapes  are  ripe),  or  by  the  *Kiihweg',  passing  the  Roman  Catholic 
church.  The  first  path  ends  about  200  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  mon- 
ument, the  other  leads  to  the  temple. 

The  *Hationid  Monumei^  on  the  Niederwald,  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  the  unanimous  rising  of  the  German  people  and  the 
foundation  of  the  new  German  empire  in  1870-71 ,  stands  upon  a 
projecting  spur  of  the  hill  (980  ft.  above  the  sea -level;  740  ft. 
above  the  Rhine),  opposite  Bingen,  and  is  conspicuous  far  and 
wide.  It  was  begun  in  1877  from  the  designs  of  Johannes  Schilling 
of  Dresden  and  was  inaugurated  with  great  ceremony  in  1883.  The 
huge  basis  is  78  ft.  high,  while  the  noble  figure  of  Germania,  with 
the  imperial  crown  and  the  laurel- wreathed  sword ,  an  emblem  of 
the  unity  and  strength  of  the  empire,  is  33  ft.  in  height.  The  prin- 
cipal relief,  on  the  side  of  the  pedestal  facing  the  river,  symbolises 
the  *Wacht  am  Rhein\  It  contains  portraits  of  King  William  of 
Prussia  and  other  German  princes  and  generals ,  together  with  re- 
presentatives of  the  troops  from  the  different  parts  of  Germany, 
with  the  text  of  the  famous  song  below ;  to  the  right  and  left  are 
allegorical  figures  of  Peace  and  ♦War,  while  below  are  Rhenus  and 
Mosella,  the  latter  as  the  future  guardian  of  the  W.  frontier  of  the 
empire.  The  fine  reliefs  on  the  sides  of  the  pedestal  represent  the 
departure  and  the  return  of  the  troops.  The  total  cost  of  this 
magnificent  monument  amounted  to  1,100,000  Jf  (55,000 i.).  An 
excellent  model  of  it  is  shewn  in  the  custodian's  house  behind 
the  monument.  —  The  terrace  in  front  commands  an  admirable 
•Survey  of  the  entire  Rheingau,  bounded  on  the  S.E.  by  the  Taunus 
Mts.,  on  the  S.  by  the  Melibocus,  and  on  the  W.  by  the  distant 
Donnersberg. 

A  finger-post  immediately  behind  the  custodian's  house  indicates 
the  path,  marked  on  the  Map,  to  (25  min.)  the  'Rossel'  (p.  138). 
—  The  *Tempelweg',  beginning  at  the  railway-station,  leads  past 
the  back  of  the  monument  to  (1  M.)  the  Jagdschloss. 

Those  who  ascend  from  Assmannshausen  (p.  127)  enjoy  a 
more  striking  development  of  the  views.  The  station  of  the  Rail- 
way of  the  Right  Bank  lies  Y4  M.  above  the  village.  From  the 
Rhine  we  follow  the  main  street  leading  through  a  gateway  above 
the  Anker  Hotel.  From  the  steamboat-pier  (p.  127)  we  may  also 
proceed  in  a  straight  direction  through  the  garden  of  the  Rhoin- 
Hdtel  and  pass  under  the  railway.  About  50  paces  beyond  the  church. 


138  RouUlS,  NIEDERWALD.  Jagd8ehlo88. 

to  the  right,  at  the  end  of  the  Tillage,  is  the  station  of  the  Zahkbjld- 
BASS  (comp.  p.  136).  The  line  ascends  the  S.  side  of  the  valley,  the 
opposite  slopes  of  which,  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  morning  sun, 
yield  the  esteemed  red  wine  known  as  Assmannshauser  (p.  127).  At 
Aulhatuenj  about  halfway  up,  the  railway  turns  due  S.  towards  the 
Jagdschloss,  100  paces  short  of  which  it  ends.  —  Walkers  diverge  to 
the  right  from  the  cart-road  (which  remains  in  the  valley)  at  a  small 
shrine  (guide-post)  about  ^^  M.  from  the  church,  cross  the  Zahn- 
radbahn,  and  ascend  the  winding  path  through  wood  to  (3/4  hr.) 
the  plateau.' 

The  Jagdsehloss  (1086  ft.),  an  old  shooting-lodge,  belongs  to 
government ,  but  has  been  rented  to .  a  hotel-keeper  of  Assmanns- 
hausen  (R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens,  in  the  *Logirhaus'  opposite  from 
5Y2  UJf).    Picturesque  silvan  walks  in  the  neighbourhood. 

From  the  Jagdschloss  the  *Tempelweg'  leads  direct  to  the  Monu- 
ment in  20  minutes.  Walkers  should  select  the  path  leading  by  the 
Rossel.  Passing  the  'Logirhaus'  on  the  left,  they  reach  in  10  min. 
the  Zauberhohle  ox  'magic  cave',  a  small  hut  with  three  apertures 
commanding  views,  through  clearings  in  the  wood,  of  the  Clemens- 
Gapelle,  the  Falkenburg,  and  Rheinstein. 

About  5  min.  walk  farther  on  is  the  *Bo8sel  (1125  ft.  above  the 
sea,  880  ft.  above  the  river),  an  artificial  ruin  on  the  highest  point  of 
the  Niederwald,  commanding  a  beautiful  prospect :  to  the  left,  Bin- 
gen,  Hesse,  and  the  valley  of  the  Nahe,  with  the  Donnersberg  in  the 
background  (to  the  left);  to  the  right  the  wooded  heights  of  the 
Hunsrilck  (Soonwald).  Far  below,  the  Rhine  rushes  through  the 
Bingerloch,  past  the  ruin  of  Ehrenfels  and  the  Mouse  Tower.  On 
the  opposite  bank  lies  Bingen  with  the  castle  of  ELlopp,  sheltered 
by  the  Rochusberg.  On  the  right,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  rises 
Rheinstein,  with  the  Schweizerhaus ;  farther  down  stands  the 
Clemens-Capelle,  beyond  it  the  Falkenburg.  —  The  Klippe,  a  point 
of  view  to  the  W.  of  and  below  the  Rossel,  commands  a  pictur- 
esquely framed  view  of  the  Rheinstein,  Clemens-Capelle,  Burg  Fal- 
kenstein,  and  Trechtingshausen,  and  is  most  conveniently  visited 
from  the  Zauberhohle  before  ascending  to  the  Rossel. 

A  finger-post  at  the  foot  of  the  Rossel  indicates  the  forest-path, 
marked  on  the  Map,  to  (26  min.)  the  National  Monument.  Half- 
way is  the  Eremitage ,  an  open  blockhouse  with  a  picturesque  view 
of  Bingen  and  the  Nahe.  At  the  stone-bench,  6  min.  farther  on, 
we  keep  to  the  right.  —  The  National  Monument,  see  p.  137.  — 
To  the  Rhine  at  Rudesheim  walkers  require  about  ^2  b^* 


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139 
19.  From  Coblenz  to  Mayence. 

Bailway  on  the  Left  Bank. 
Comp.  Maps^  pp.  112,  128. 
Railway  to  Bingerbriick,  38  M.,  in  l-l»/4  hr.  (fares  5  •#  60,  4  .#  10, 
2  Jir  90  pf.).  —  From  Bingerbnick  to  Mayence,  19  M.,  in  V2-I  hr.  (fares 
2  ur  70,  1  ur  90,  1  ur  20  pf.).    views  to  the  left. 

Railway  on  the  Right  Bank,  see  B.  20.  Beturn-tickets,  available  for  three 
days  and  allowing  the  journey  to  be  broken  once  in  each  direction,  may 
be  nsed  on  either  bank  as  far  as  BingerbrUck  and  RUdesheim  (see  p.  78). 
—  Steamboat^  see  B.  17. 

Coblenz,  see  R.  16.  As  far  as  Bingen  the  line  generally  rung 
olose  to  the  riyer,  and  passes  the  places  more  minutely  described 
in  R.  17.  Many  of  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  are  of  course  lost  to 
the  railway-traveller. 

Beyond  Coblenz  the  line  skirts  the  Karthause  (r.),  at  a  little 
distance  from  the  river.  A  view  of  the  island  of  Oberwerth  and  the 
fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  is  obtained  to  the  left.  3  M.  Capellen 
(steamb.  stat.)  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  of  Stolzenfels  (p.  113). 
Opposite  are  Oberlahnstein  and  the  castle  of  Lahneck.  After  pass- 
ing the  Konigsstuhl,  which  rises  to  the  left,  the  line  intersects  the 
old  village  of  (5^2  M.)  Rhens  (p.  115).  Farther  up,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  is  Braubach  with  the  Marksburg,  and  beyond  it  the  chliteau 
of  Liebeneck. 

I2V2  M.  Boppard  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  116);  15V2  M.  8alzig  (p. 
118).  A  little  farther  on  are  the  castles  of  Sterrenberg  and  Lie- 
benstein  and  the  convent  of  Bomhofen ;  still  farther  up  are  Well- 
mich  and  the  Mouse. 

21  M.  St.  Goar  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  119).  The  station  lies  on  a 
height  at  the  back  of  the  town.  On  the  opposite  bank  is  St.  Gears- 
hausen  with  the  Oat.  To  the  left,  farther  on,  we  obtain  a  view  of 
the  Lurlei.  Three  tunnels,  beyond  which  is  (25 V2  M.)  Oberwesel 
(steamb.  stat. ;  p.  122).  We  next  have  a  view  on  the  left  of  Caub, 
the  Pfalz,  and  the  ruin  of  Gutenfels  (p.  123). 

30  M.  Baoharach  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  124) ;  32  M.  Niederheim- 
bach  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  126) ;  35  M.  Trechtingshausen  (p.  126).  On 
the  opposite  bank,  Assmannshausen  and  Lorch  successively  come 
in  sight.   At  Bingerbrflok  the  wider  part  of  the  valley  is  entered. 

38  M.  Bingerbruck  (see  p.  130)  lies  on  the  left  (Prussian)  bank 
of  the  Nahe,  about  8/4  M.  from  Bingen,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
Mouse  Tower  (p.  128).  Travellers  bound  for  Kreuznach  (p.  165), 
Saarbrilcken,  Treves,  Metz,  etc.,  change  carriages  here.  —  Steam- 
boat to  Rudesheim  (p.  130).    Comp.  Map,  p.  136. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Nahe.  To  the  left  a  view  of  the 
Nlederwald  and  the  ruined  castle  of  Ehrenfels  (p.  127). 

38V2  M.  Bingen  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  128.  The  line  now  skirts 
the  base  of  the  Rochusberg  (several  villas  to  the  right),  unites  with 
the  line  from  Alzey  (R.  35),  and  begins  to  diverge  from  the  Rhine. 
41  M.  Oaulsheim*  —  44  M.  Gau-Algesheim  is  the  junction  for  the 


140  Route  19.  INGELHEIM. 

new  strategic  railway  to  Kreuznach  and  Milnater  am  Stein  (15  M. ; 
see  p.  168),  which  is  to  he  continued  towards  the  Glanthal.  — 
A  view  of  the  Johannisherg  to  the  left  is  sometimes  ohtalned,  hut 
the  country  generally  is  flat  and  uninteresting. 

46  M.  Ingelheimy  station  for  the  two  yillages  of  Nieder-Ingelheim 
(Goldner  Hirsch)  and  Ober-Ingelkeim  (395  ft. ;  Lamm),  each  2/3  M. 
distant.  Nieder-Ingelheim  was  once  the  site  of  a  celebrated  palace 
of  Charlemagne,  described  by  ancient  writers  as  an  edifice  of 
great  magnificence  (^domus  alta  centum  perflxa  columnis'),  to 
adorn  which  mosaics,  sculptures,  and  other  works  of  art  were 
sent  from  Rayenna  by  Pope  Hadrian  I.  between  768  and  784.  It 
was  burned  down  in  1270,  but  was  restored  by  Charles  IV.  in  1354. 
Few  relics  of  the  building  are  now  extant.  The  Protestant  St. 
Remigius- Kirche  was  once  the  chapel  of  the  palace,  but  as  it  has 
been  repeatedly  restored  nothing  of  the  original  is  now  left  except 
some  parts  of  the  N.  transept.  The  haiidsome  Protestant  Church 
of  Ober-Ingelheim ,  recently  restored,  dates  from  the  13th  century. 
It  was  at  Ingelheim,  on  31st  Dec,  1105,  that  the  conyocation  of 
the  bishops  of  Mayence,  Cologne,  and  Worms  dethroned  Emp. 
Henry  IV.  The  red  wine  of  Ingelheim  is  much  esteemed.  —  The 
Waldeck  (760  ft.),  V2  ^r.  above  Ober-Ingelheim,  commands  one  of 
the  finest  views  of  the  Rheingau ;  a  Bismarck  Tower  was  erected  on 
the  summit  in  1903. 

49  M.  Heidesheim.  From  (52^2  M.)  Budenheim  the  Leniaberg 
(p.  165)  may  be  ascended  in  Y2  ^^'  —  55  M.  Momhach. 

57  M.  Hayence,  see  R.  22. 

20.   From  Coblenz  to  Wiesbaden.   Schlangenbad  and 

Schwalbach. 

Bailway  on  the  Sight  Bank. 

Comp.  MapSj  pp.  112^  128. 

dSVz  M.  Railway  in  2-8  hrs.  (fares  7  UT  40,  5  UT  00,  3  UT  70  pf.;  express 
7  Jir  90,  6  ur  90  pf.).    Return-tickets,  see  p.  78.  —  Views  to  the  right. 

Travellers  bound  for  Castel  or  Frankfort  (R.  29a)  need  not  go  via 
Wiesbaden,  as  a  direct  line  to  these  towns  diverges  between  Bkbrich- 
Afosbach  and  Curve  (see  p.  142  \  Map,  p.  128). 

Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitsteinj  see  R.  16.  —  The  station  for  the 
Railway  on  the  Right  Bank  is  at  Ehrenbreitsteln  (p.  111).  Passengers 
who  start  from  Coblenz  (Central  Station,  p.  105)  cross  the  handsome 
railway-bridge  (p.  110)  at  the  island  of  Oberwerth  [and  join  the 
railway  described  below  at  Niederlahnstein. 

The  line  from  Ehrenbreitsteln  passes  to  the  left  of  the  old 
railway-bridge  and  runs  at  the  back  ot  Pfaffendorf  (jp.  112),  com- 
manding a  fine  view  the  whole  way.  —  2^/2  M.  Horchheim  (p.  113). 

4  M.  Niederlahnstein  (p.  113),  the  junction  of  the  Lahn  rail- 
way (R.27).  In  the  opposite  direction,  passengers  bound  for  Coblenz 
change  carriages  here. 

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ASSMANNSHAUSEN.  20,  Route.   141 

The  line  crosses  the  Lahn,  View  of  Capellen  and  Stolzenfels 
to  the  right,  and  of  Lahneck  to  the  left. 

4^2  M.  Oberlahnitein  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  114).  Opposite  lies  the 
village  of  Rhena,  with  the  Konigsstnhl  (p.  115"). 

7  M.  Braabachy  with  the  Marksburg  (p.  116).  Narrow-gauge 
line  hence  to  Ncutdtten  (Zollhaus),  see  p.  115.  To  the  right  Nie- 
derspay,  and  farther  on  on  the  same  bank,  below  the  Marksburg, 
Oherspay,  —  10  M.  Osterapay  (p.  116).  Passing  the  small  village  of 
FiUeny  we  now  obtain  a  view  of  Boppard,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
opposite  bank.  IS^/j  M.  Camp  (steamb.  stat. ,  p.  118),  a  little  above 
which  are  the  pilgrimage-church  and  convent  of  Bomhofen,  at  the 
foot  of  the  ruined  castles  otSterrenberg  and  Liebenstein  (the  ^Brother  8% 
p.  118).  I7V2  ^-  K^9tert  (p.  118),  beyond  which  the  train  passes 
the  village  of  WeUmich,  with  the  ^Mouae^  castle  rising  above  it. 
Farther  on  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  Rheinfels  on  the  opposite  bank. 

21  M.  St.  Ooax shaiuen  (steamb.  stat.),  with  the  ruined  castle  of 
the  ^Cat^  (p.  120).  Narrow-gauge  line  hence  to  NastdttenCZoUhausJ, 
see  p.  121.  Opposite  lies  the  picturesque  little  town  of  St.  Goar. 
The  train  now  passes  through  a  tunnel  under  the  Lurlei  (p.  121), 
and  through  another  under  the  Roasatein.  On  the  opposite  bank  lies 
Oberwesel,  a  picturesque  little  town,  commanded  b^  the  Schonburg. 
f  28  M.  Caab  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  123),  above  which  rises  the  ruin 
of  OutenfeU,  In  the  middle  of  the  Rhine  is  the  curious  old  chateau 
of  the  Pfcds,  Higher  up  the  river,  on  the  opposite  bank,  lies  the 
venerable  town  of  Bacharaoh,  overshadowed  by  the  ruin  of  Stahleck; 
then  the  ruin  of  F&rstenberg  and  the  village  of  Rheindiebach.  The 
train  intersects  the  village  of  Lorchhausen. 

31  Va  M.  Lorch  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  125).  On  the  opposite  bank, 
farther  up,  is  Niederheimbach,  commanded  by  the  round  tower  of 
the  Heimburg ;  then  the  slender  tower  of  the  Sooneck,  the  ruin  of 
Falkenburg,  the  Clemens-Gapelle,  and  the  picturesque  modernised 
castle  of  Rheinstein. 

36 V2  ^«  AssmannshaoBen  (see  p.  127)  is  the  starting-point  of  a 
rack- and -pinion  railway  to  the  Niederwald  (p.  136).  Opposite,  a 
little  higher  up,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Nahe,  immediately  above  which 
lies  Bingen.  The  train  passes  below  the  ruin  of  EhrenfeU,  opposite 
which  lies  the  island  with  the  Mouse  Tower,  where  the  stream  is 
very  rapid. 

39  M.  BftdeBheim  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  130).  On  the  left  rises  the 
Bromserburg.  Ferry  to  Bingerbrilck  (junction  for  Kreuznach),  situat- 
ed immediately  below  Bingen  on  the  opposite  bank,  20  or  10  pf .  — 
Opposite  rises  the  Rochusberg,  with  its  chapel  (p.  129). 

41 V2  M.  Geitenlieim  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  132).  On  the  hill  to  the 
left  are  the  village  and  monastery  of  Eibingen.  —  44  M.  Oestrioh- 
Winkel  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  133) ;  the  station  is  at  Mittelheimy  between 
these  two  places.  To  the  left  is  Schloss  VoUrads.  From  Winkel  to 
Johannisberg  an  easy  ascent  of  3/^  hr.  ^         i 

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142  Route  20.  SCHLANGENBAD. 

46V2  M.  Hattenheim  (p.  183).  On  the  MU  to  tlie  left  is  Hall- 
garten ,  a  famous  wine-producing  place;  to  the  N.E.,  on  the  slope 
of  the  Bos  J  is  the  still  more  famous  Steinberg ,  and  in  the  yalley 
behind  is  the  Abbey  of  Eberbach,  to  the  right  of  which  lies  the 
Eichberg  Lunatic  Asylum.  To  the  right  are  Schloss  Beichartshausen, 
and  the  green  islands  in  the  Rhine.  —  49  M.  Erbach  (p.  134). 

50  M.  Eltville  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  134);  route  to  Sehlangenbad 
and  Sehwcdbaeh,  see  below.  In  the  background  rises  the  tower  of 
Scharfenstein  (p.  135).  The  train  trayerses  vineyards  and  passes  a 
number  of  country-houses.  From  the  hill  to  the  left  peeps  the 
church-tower  of  Rauenthal  (see  below).  52  M.  Niederwalluf(steim'b. 
Stat.,  p.  135) ;  54^2  M.  SehiersUin  (p.  135),  where  the  train  begins 
to  quit  the  river. 

56  M.  Biebrich-Mosbach  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  135).  The  N.  en- 
trance to  the  park  is  near  the  railway-station  and  the  steam-tramway. 
On  the  opposite  bank  rise  the  towers  of  Mayence.  Beyond  Curve 
(p.  241)  the  train  turns  inland  to  the  left,  running  parallel  for  some 
distance  with  the  Taunus  line,  and  soon  reaches  — 

58V2  M.  Wiesbaden  (see  p.  145). 


SoHLANGENBAD  and  SoHWALBAOH  are  most  conveniently  visited 
from  Eltville  or  Wiesbaden. 

Fbom  Eltville  to  Schlanobnbad,  5  M.,  steam-tramway  daily  in  35  min- 
utes.  —  Eltville,  see  p.  134  and  above.  The  intermediate  stations  are  (2  H.) 
Neudorf  (496  ft.^  Krone),  in  the  vaUey  of  the  Waldc^a;  Rauenthal  (Hdtel 
Diana,  very  fair),  for  the  ("A  M.)  village  of  that  name  (see  below);  and 
Tiefenihdl  (hotel),  an  ancient  convent,  suppressed  in  1803. 

Pedestrians  should  select  the  somewhat  longer  route  by  Rauenthal 
(2  hrs.)«  The  highroad  is  quitted  1  M.  from  Eltville,  and  the  vineyards  as- 
cended by  a  footpath  to  the  left  (partly  closed  during  the  vintage);  on 
reaching  the  summit  of  the  plateau,  we  turn  again  slightly  to  the  left; 
(25  min.)  the  BabenhAuser  H6he  080  ft.),  commanding  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  entire  Bheingau  with  the  town  of  Eltville  in  the  foreground.  About 
s/4  M.  farther  to  the  N.,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  is  situated  Banenthal 
(856  ft. ;  Nastauer  Hof;  Kheingauer  Hof,  both  with  gardens),  a  village  with 
an  ancient  church  (IfiUi  cent.),  and  celebrated  for  its  wine.  On  the  slope 
of  the  hill  on  the  N.  side  of  Rauenthal  a  shady  promenade  leads  to 
Sehlangenbad  in  V4  hr. 

Sehlangenbad.  —  Hotels,  some  with  gardens  and  most  of  them  closed 
in  winter.  ^Rotal  Bath  Hodsbs  (KdrUgliche  CurMuser):  Naeeauev  Hof^ 
with  veranda  and  restaurant,  Berliner  Hof,  B^toeizerhaus^  Oberet,  MitUere*, 
&  Unterea  CurJums,  and  Ge$elltcha/UJum»,  R.  at  these  from  2,  B.  I1/4,  B.  3  Jt, 
pens,  in  May  and  June  only.  —  ^HdxBL  Viotorl4,  with  restaurant,  R.  2-15, 
B.  iy4,  !>•  3,  pens,  from  7.#;  Russisghbb  Kaiseb,  R.  from  IVs,  B.  11/4, 
B.  2^/4  •#,  these  two  in  the  Rheingauer-Str.,  near  the  Bath  Houses.  —  Less 
pretending:  Waldfbibdbn,  on  the  Wiesbaden  road,  a  little  distant  from 
the  Bath  Houses,  R.  2-5,  pens.  5-8  •#;  Wbbnbb,  Rhbinland,  R.  from  l^/s, 
D.  2-2V2,  pens.  41/2-5  •#,  both  in  the  Rheingauer-Strasse.  —  There  are  also 
numerous  lodging-houses  and  apartments  to  let. 

Bestaurants.  Bremter,  RheingatierBof,  Miihl-Strasse.  with  bedrooms  to  let. 

Baths  at  the  upper  bath-house  1V2  •#,  at  the  middle  bath-house  1  •# 
80  pf.,  at  the  lower  bath-house  2  •#.  ^  Visitors'  Tax  (after  ten  days' 
residence),  one  pers.  15  •#,  each  addit.  pers.  10  Uf.  —  Band  3-4  timet 
daily.  —  Summer  Theatre,  twice  weekly  in  July  and  August.        i 


SOHWALBAOH.  20.  Route.   143 

Oarriai^s,  two -horse  6  •<#.  one-horse  SVs  Jf  per  hoar;  to  Schwal- 
bach  9  or  6.  to  Wiesbaden  12  or  9  Ul^.  —  Donkey,  per  hour,  1  U^  60  pf. 
Englian  Ohnreh  Service  in  summer. 

Schlangenbad  (985  ft.),  cbarmingly  situated  in  a  ricbly-wooded 
valley,  is  annually  visited  by  abont  2000  patients,  the  great  majority 
of  whom  are  women.  The  water  (10  springs;  80-86®  Fahr.),  which 
belongs  to  the  earthy-alkaline  group  of  mineral  waters,  and  is  clear 
and  free  from  odour,  is  most  efficacious  in  skin  complaints,  nervous 
affections,  and  the  maladies  of  women.  The  Upper  Bath  JSouse  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  one  erected  in  1694  by  the  Landgrave  Carl  of 
Hesse-Cassel,  then  lord  of  the  soil;  the  Central  Batft  dates  from  the 
18th  cent. ;  the  well-equipped  Lower  Bath  House  was  completed  in 
1868.  The Schlanger^QueUe  and  Marien-Quelle&ie  used  for  drinking. 
The  environs  afford  a  great  variety  of  shady  walks  (e.gr.  the  Wilhelms-' 
feUen,  the  Oraue  Stein,  the  Hohe  Wurzel,  and  the  Wild£  Frau), 

FsoM  SoHLANOSNBAD  TO  WiESBADEN,  7Vt  M.  The  road  by  (IVs  H.) 
Oeorgenbom  (1186 ft.;  Hdid-Restaurtmi  Hohentoald^  D.  IVs)  pens.  4Vs-6  UIT, 
a  litUe  before  the  village  is  reached)  is  the  best  route  for  pedestrians  and 
eydiats.  On  the  way  is  a  belvedere,  ereeted  in  1886  in  honour  of  the  Em- 
press Augusta.  Other  points  of  view  above  the  village.  Descent  to  the 
Chausseehaut  (see  below),  2V4  M. 

The  road  from  Sehlangenbad  vi&  Wambach  to  Schwalbach  rises  con- 
siderably for  2V4  M.,  and  then  descends  to  (2V4  M.)  Schwalbach.  Pedestrians 
may  descend  by  a  shady  footpath  (sign-posts). 


Fbom  Wibsbadbn  to  Schwalbach  and  Limbubo,  34  M.,  local 
railway  in  272  ^^»  (fares  4,  3,  2  ujf ;  to  Schwalbach  in  1  hr.,  fares 
1  UJf  80,  1  UJf  30,  90  pf.).  —  The  railway  (p.  145)  crosses  the 
Biebrich  and  Schierstein  road.  To  the  left  we  have  a  view  of 
Mayence  and  the  plain  of  the  Rhine.  To  the  right  are  the  Neroberg 
and  the  Platte.  —  2^2  M.  Lotxheim  (635  ft ;  hence  to  the  Spitxe- 
Stein,  p.  135,  ^/^  hr.J.  The  line  now  leads  through  wood.  5  M. 
Chausaeehaua  (950  ft. ;  H6tel  Taunnsblick),  named  after  a  (5  min.) 
forester's  house  on  the  old  £m8  road  (p.  153),  whence  (finger-posts) 
the  Schldferakopf  (1483  ft.)  may  be  ascended  in  l/j  hr.,  and  the  Hohe 
Wurzel  (2025  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  summits  of  the  W.  Taunus,  in 
1  hr.  (view-towers  on  both).  —  71/2  M.  Eiseme  Hand  (1380  ft.), 
whence  we  may  reach  the  view-tower  on  the  AUenatein  (1643  ft.)  in 
25  min.  and  the  Platte  (p.  153)  in  60  min.  more.  The  line  descends 
into  the  valley  of  the  Aar  and  follows  it  to  (9  M.)  Hahn-Wehen 
(1144  ft.),  BUidenstadt  (10  M.),  and  — 

13  M.  Schwalbach.  —  The  Railway  Station  (9iO  ft.)  is  about 
1  M.  from  the  Gursaal ,  on  the  road  descending  the  Aar  valley.  Omni- 
buses 00,  trunk  26  pf.)  and  carriages  await  the  trains  (electric  tramway 


Hotels  (most  of  them  closed  in  winter).  *Allbb8aal,  Neue-Str.  1,  with 
d^pendance  Villa  Orebert,  first-class,  R.  from  4,  B.  li/si  D.  4,  pens  from 
10  Jf;  ^Hbrzoo  von  Nassau,  Neue-Str.  6,  R.  from  8  UT,  B.  1  UT  40  pf., 
D.8V3,  pens,  from  SJf;  *HdTBLMBTB0POLB,  Beit-AU^e  2,  with  d^pendances, 
R.  2Va-lO,  B.  IV2,  D.  3Vt,  pens.  8-16  Jf;  *Qubllenhof  A,  Post-Hotbl, 
Brunnen-Str.  53,  with  garden,  B.2-9,  B.  1-1 V4,  D.  SVa,  pens,  from  TVa-*, 
'Victoria,  If eue-Str.  2,  with  caf^  and  confectioner's,  R.  o-12,  B.  1  »#  40  pf., 


144   Route  20,  SOHWALBAOH. 

D.  2V3-3,  pens.  6-15  Jf;  Gontinbittal,  Bad-WegS^  Taunus,  Brunnen-Str.  45, 
B.  from  2,  B.  iV^,  D.  3,  pens,  from  Vh  Jt;  Rcssisohkb  Hof,  Adolf- 
Str.  36  (open  in  winter)^  Bsblineb  Hof,  Brunnen-  Sir.  33.  —  Some  of  the 
Lodging  HouMti  ('Kurhauser*)  are  very  comfortably  fitted  up.  In  July  and 
August  it  is  advisable  to  secure  rooms  in  advance. 

Beetaurants.  ^Cursaal,  D.  2Vs-3VtUr;  *Ditle,  at  the  Berliner  Hof  •,  *Bibo 
(Ldwmhwrg)^  with  a  few  bedrooms,  Brunnen-Str.  4,  D.  2»#;  Oartenlaube; 
•  Weidenhof,  Kirch-Str.  2,  D.  iVaUT;  Malepartw^  Brunnen-Str.  43,  also  rooms. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Bhein-Str.  1. 

Baths  in  the  KOniglichei  Badhaus,  Brunnen-Str.  20  (6  a.m.  till  l.SO  p.m.« 
baths  from  1  Jf  20jpf.  to  8  .J).  At  the  Stadt  Coblene,  Idnde,  Zum  Linden- 
brunnen^  etc.,  1 U^  20  to  2  U^ 60  pf.  per  bath.— Fi««or«'  Tcu::  1-2  persons  12  J( 
each,  every  additional  member  of  a  party  8  •<#;  ^BrunneniiirW  for  drinking 
the  waters  2V2  •#;  Daily  Ticked  for  admission  to  the  Gurhaus  Vs  Jf.  — 
Music  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  at  the  Stahlbrunnen ,  the  Wein- 
brunnen,  and  the  Trinkhalle  alternately.  Bmniont  (dancing,  etc.)  Wed. 
and  Sat.  evenings  in  the  Carhaus. 

Oarriages.  One-horse  21/2 1  two-horse  4  Jt  per  hour,  afternoon  8  and 
6  »#;  to  EUville  91/2  and  15  Jf.  —  Donkey i  2  jH  per  hour. 

English  Ohuroh  (Christ  Church),  Frankftirter-Str. 

Schwalbachj  officially  styled  Langen-Sehwalbcuih  (950  ft.),  with 
2700inliab. ,  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  green  valley,  9^2  M.  to  the  N.  of 
EltviUe  (p.  142).  It  has  been  known  for  at  least  300  years,  and  was 
a  fashionable  watering-place  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries,  but  is 
now  regarded  more  as  a  health-resort  and  medicinal  spa.  The  water, 
strongly  impregnated  with  iron  and  carbonic  acid ,  is  adapted  for 
internal  and  external  use,  and  is  especially  efficacious  in  nervous  and 
female  complaints.  The  annual  number  of  visitors  is  about  5000. 

The  two  principal  springs,  the  Stahlbrunnen  in  one  of  the 
valleys,  and  the  Weinbrunnen  in  the  other,  are  connected  by  prom- 
enades. The  other  springs  are  used  only  for  bathing.  A  handsome 
Cwraaal,  with  a  restaurant,  a  reading-room,  etc,  was  opened  in 
1879.  Farther  up,  beyond  the  pond  near  the  Weinbrunnen,  there 
are  extensive  lawn-tennis  courts. 

Walks  in  the  pleasure-grounds  and  adjacent  woods.  Also  to  the 
(1/4  hr.;  donkey  50  pf.)  Paulinenberg ;  the  Platte  (1380  ft),  the  summit 
of  which,  with  a  fine  view,  may  be  reached  in  15-20  min.  more  \  and  the 
Brdunchesbergj  with  a  pavilion  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  town  and 
the  valley  of  the  Aar.  A  road,  known  as  the  'Bader-Strasse*  and  recom- 
mended to  cyclists,  leads  vi&  Kernel  (1668  ft.),  Holzhaueen  auf  der  Beide 
(p.  121),  Bingho/en,  and  Nassau  (p.  21^  to  r24  M.)  Ems  (p.  212).  A  good 
road  (also  a  favourite  of  cyclists)  leads  from  Schwalbach  down  the 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Wlsper  to  Oerolstein  and  (20  M.)  Lorch  (p.  125). 

The  railway  continues  to  follow  the  pretty  vaUey  of  the  Aar.  — 
I4V2  M.  Adolphseck  (Kling),  with  a  picturesque  ruined  castle  j  I71/2M. 
Hohenstein  (780  ft. ;  Burg  Hohenstein,  very  fair,  pens.  4-41/2  Jf ; 
Villa  Alpin,  pens.  S^/4-i  Jf),  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  a  strong- 
hold destroyed  in  1657.  Several  smaU  stations.  —  251/2  M.  Zollhans 
(Railway  Hotel),  junction  for  the  narrow-gauge  line  to  NastEtten 
(St.  Goarshausen,  Braubach,  p.  121),  has  a  large  cement-factory 
and  the  Johannisbrunnenj  a  spring  exploited  by  the  ApoUinaris  Go. 
(p.  98).  Burg-Schwalbach,  with  a  ruined  castle  (restaurant,  pens. 
31/2-472  •^)j  */4  ^  *o  *^6  S.E.,  and  the  romantic  rmn  of  HoKUnfeU 

Digitized  by  VjOO^ 


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WIESBADEN.  21.  Route,    145 

(p.  121)  may  also  be  -visited  from  Zollhaus  (1  hr.).  —  27  M.  Hahn- 
«taft«n  (465 ft.;  NassauerHof,  unpretending),  with  iron-ore  deposits 
(siderites).  —  28  M.  Oherneisen;  30  M.  Flacht.  To  the  right  is  the 
ruin  of  Ardtck.  —  3272  M.  Dietz,  see  p.  218.  —  34  M.  Limburg, 
see  p.  219. 

21.  Wiesbaden. 

Bailway  Stations.  1.  Tcmnu$  Station  (PI  E,  6;  reatanrant),  Bhein-Str., 
for  the  Taunus  Bailway  to  Gastel  (Mayence)  and  Frankfort  (R.  29  a).  — 
2.  Rhine  Station  (PI.  E,  6;  restaurant),  Bheinbaha--<tr.,  for  the  Railway  of  the 
Bight  Bank  (B.  20)  and  the  Schwalbach  Bailway  (p.  143).  —  3.  Ludwig  Station 
(PI.  E,  6),  Bhein-Str.,  for  the  line  to  Niederhauscn  (Frankfort - Limburg ; 
B.  29 e).  —  The  hotels  do  not  send  oinnibuse<«  to  meet  the  trains.  Cabs,  see 
p.  147).  —  Tourist  Agency :  Sehoitenfelty  Theatre  Colonnade.  —  SteambocUt 
stop  at  Biebrich  (p.  136 j  electric  tramway,  see  p.  147j. 

Hotels  (most  of  the  first-class  houses  provided  with  elevators,  hot-air 
heating,  electric  light,  and  thermal  baths).  ^I^assadxb  Hor  (PI.  a*,  E,  4), 
Kaiser -Friedrich-Platz  3,  with  d^pendance  *Hdtel  Oranien  (PI.  f,  E  Sj 
Bierstadter-Str.  2a),  B.  3-10.  B.  IV2,  D.  (1  p  m.)  4,  pen««.  from  9  Jt; 
*Kai8Ebhof  (PI.  t;  F,  6),  Frankfarter-Str.  17.  with  a  large  garden,  connected 
by  a  covered  passage  with  the  well-equipped  Augusta  Victoria  Bad  (p.  152), 
B.  3-10,  B.  1V»,  D.  (1  p.m.)  4,  S.  3,  pens.  lOVslB  Jf;  •MAtropolk  (PI.  u; 
£,  6),  Wilhelm-Str.  8,  with  restau'ant  (p.  146)  and  d^pendance  Hdtel  Monopole 
(PI.  n;  E  6),  B.  3-10,  B.  IV4,  D.  at  1  p.m.,  3»/2,  pens,  from  9  Jf;  •Hot.  du 
—    v;  E   5),  — ^-^        


PARC  ET  Bristol  (PI.  v;  E  5),  Wilhelm-Str.  30,  with  garden,  frequented 
by  royalty,  R.  from  4,  B.  IVa,  D.  (1  p.m.)  4,  pens,  from  11  Jt;  ♦Hot.  Qdisi- 
8ANA,  Park-Str.  3  (pens.  8-14  Uf);  •Rose  (PI.  c  &  1^  E,  4),  Kranz-PUtz  7-9, 
R.  3-10,  B.  1V«,  D.  at  1  p.m.  4,  pen'",  from  10  Jt;  •H6t.  Block  (PI.  g;  E,  4), 
Wilhelm-Str.  M,  B.  2V«-8,  B.  IV2,  D.  3i/a,  board  from  GVaUT}  •Vier  Jahre8- 
ZEiTEN  (PI.  b ;  E,  4),  Kaiser-Friedrich-Platz  1  i  Hotel  Wilhelma  (PI.  v;  E,  4), 
Sonnenberger-Str.  1,  family  hotel,  B.  from  372,  B.  IV2,  D.  (1-3  p.m.)  4,  pens, 
from  10  Jf;  •Hohknzollern  (PI.  w  \  E,  5),  Paulinen-Str.  10,  in  a  pleasant 
and  quiet  part  of  the  town. 

The  following  are  somewhat  less  expensive :  *HdTBL  d^Akglbterrb 
(PI.  d;  D,  4),  Kranz-Platz  11,  B.  3-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  3,  pens.  7V2-12  Jt; 
•Victoria  (PI.  x;  E,  6),  corner  of  the  Bhein-Str.  and  Wilhelm-Str., 
B.  8-8,  B.  IV4,  D.  3-3V*.  pens,  from  8  Jf;  *HdTEL  Bkllevdb  (PI.  y;  E,  5), 
Wilhelm-Str.  26,  B.  3-12,  B.  IV4,  D.  4,   pens,  from  8  Jt;   •Hotel  Aeoib 

g?l.  a:  E,  5),  Thelemann-Str.  5;  'Promenade  Hotel  (Php;  E,  5),  Wilhelm- 
tr.  24,  witli  wine  room,  B.  2-6.  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens  from  5  Jt;  •Minerva 
g?l.  m;  E,  6),  Bhein-Str.  9,  B.  2»/2  5 ,  B.  1,  D.2V8,  pens,  from  6Uf;  "H6tel 
T.PsTBRSBCRa  (PI.  h ;  E,6).  Museum-Str.3,  frequented  by  Bassians,  B.  2V8-6, 
B.  IV4,  D.3,  pens.  7-10  Uf;  *BHEiN-HdTEL  (PI.  r;  E,  6),  Rhein-Str.  16. 

Second  Class:  ^Dahlhbim  fPl.  d;  D,  3),  Taunus-Str.  15,  with  restau- 
rant, R.  &  B.  3-3V«.  D.  2,  pens.  6-7  Uf;  'National,  Taunus-Str.  21,  B.  2-4V»» 
B.  IV4,  B.  2,  pens.  5  8  Jt^  with  restaurant;  Alleesaal  (PI. a;  E,4),  Taunus- 
Str.  3,  opposite  the  Eochbrunnen,  B.  2i/s-10,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens.  T-ibJtf 
Hambokgbr  Hof  (hdtel  garni?  PI.  h,  B,  8,4),  Taunus-Str.  11?  Fdhr  (PI. 
B,  3),  Geisberg-Str.  3,  with  restourant,  D.  l«/4-2  Jt:  Savot  (PI.  #;  D,  4), 
Baren-Str.  3,  W'th  thermal  baths  ^  Westfalibcher  Hop,  Schiitzenhof-Str.  3, 
B.  A,  B.  3-4,  D  2V«,  pens.  6V2 10  Jt;  Schutzbnhof  (PI.  s;  D,  5),  Schutzen- 
hof-Str.  4,  with  thermal  baths,  B.  £  B.  3  3V2  I>.  2,  pens.  5V2-7  Jt;  Bender, 
Hafner(!asse  10,  with  thermal  bath"  •,  Hahn,  Spiegelgasse  15,  B.  2-3,  B.  1, 
pens,  from  5  Jf;  Braubach,  Saalgasse  84,  with  restaurant.  B.  &  B.,  from  2V2} 
D.  from  IY4  Jt;  Eronprinz,  Tannus-'^tr.  46,  Hebrew.  —  Also  several  Private 
Hotels:  •Bitter,  Taunus-Str.  45,  pens.  5-8  Jt;  Schmidt,  Wilhelm-Str.  22, 
and  others. 

The  following  hotels  are   mainly   frequented  by  passing  travellers: 
•Tauncb  Hotel  (PI.  i  j  E,6),  Bhein-Str.  19,  first-class,  B.  from  2,  B.  1,  D.  3  JT  j 
Babobkbb's  Bhine.    15th  Edit.  10*         ^ 


146  Route  21,  WIESBADEN.  Practical 

*GBttNER  Wald  (PI.  k ;  D,  5),  Markt-Str.  10;  HStkl  Weins  ,  Bahnhof-Str.  7 
(PI.  D,  6),  with  garden,  R.  from  I'/t,  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens,  from  6  Jt;  H6tbl 
Tannhausbb,  Babnhof-Str.  8;  HCtel  Vogel,  Bhein-Str.  27,  opposite  the 
Taunus  Station;  Nonnenhof  (PI.  o;  D, 5),  Kirchgasse  39-41,  R.  2-2V2,  B.Vrl, 
pens,  from  6.#,*  Einhobn,  Harkt-Str.  32,  R.  2-2V4  Jt;  Hehlbr,  Hiihlgasse  3 
(PI.  D,  4,  5);  Union,  Neugasse  7  (PI.  D,  6),  with  wine-room;  Schweinsbebg, 
Rheinbahn-Str.  5,  Beichspost,  I^ikoIansStr.  16,  both  near  the  Rhine  Station; 
Ghbistliches  Hospiz,  Rosen-Str.  4  (PI.  F,  6),  and  Oranien-Str.  63  (PI.  D.  7; 
less  pretending),  B.  2-7,  board  SVa  Jt- 

Outside  the  town  (sdipted  for  summer -quarters),  all  with  open-air 
restaurants:  Nbbobebo  (803  ft.;  PL  B,  C,  1:  p.  152),  B.  8-12,  board  6  Jt; 
Bahnholz  (865  f(.;  to  the  N.  of  PI.  E,  1;  p.  153),  R.  lVr3,  board  3  U(^  80  pf. ; 
Waldegk  (N.W.  of  PI.  A.  2,  8),  Aar-Str.,  in  the  Adams-Thai  (p.  153);  Wil- 
helmshohe,  on  the  Bingert  (p.  154),  10  min.  above  Sonnenberg.  —  Hdtei 
Restaurant  Taunutblidk^  eee  p.  143. 

Bath  Houses  (also  hotels  and  pensions).  *Schwarzbb  Bock,  Kranz- 
Platz  12  (PI.  D.  4),  R.  3-7,  pens,  ft-om  8  Of;  Kaisebbad  (PI.  jfc;  E,  4,  5), 
Wilhelm-Str.  42,  R.  2>/2-16,  pens,  from  l^jtM;  •Romebbad  (PI.  m;  D,  4), 
Kochbrunnen-Platz  3 ;  Goldenb  Ebonb  (PI.  p ;  D,  4),  Langgasse  36 ;  Pabiser 
Hof,  Spiegelgasse;  *K6lni8GHeb  Hop,  Kleine  Burg-Str.  6,  B.  3-6,  hoard 
4-5  jH;  Weisses  Ross,  Eochbrunnen-Platz  2,  R.  2Vs'6  jH, 

Pensions.  Pention  Internationale  (Mrs.  Somerville  and  Miss  Gratrix), 
Mainzer  Stri8  (5-8  Uf);  Rheinttein.,  Taunus  Str.43;  ffdtel  VUlaRoyale,  Sonnen- 
berger-Str.  28  (7-16  Jl)-^  HOUl-Pemion  .Biewier,  Sonnenberger-Slr.  11  (6Va- 
12  j$)\  Kordina^  Sonnenberger-Str.  10(6-SUl?);  vaia  Primeuin  LuUe,  Sonnen- 
berger-Str.  15;  Winter^  Sonnenberger-Str.  14  (5-10  Ulf);  Oermania^  Sonnen- 
berger-Str. 26  (6-9  Jl)\  Villa  Bontssia,  Sonnenberger-Str.  29  (from  9  U?); 
Kaiser  Wahelm,  Paulinen-Str.  7;  VUla  Roma.  Garten-Str.  1 ;  Windsor^  Leber- 
bertj  4  (5-12  J() ;  Villa  Roos-Rvpprecht;  VUla  Olanda^  Grunweg  1 ;  Columbia, 
Garten-Str.  14;  Primavera.  Park-Sir,  15;  Margaretha,  Thelemann-Str.  3 
(6-10  U?);  Monbijou,  Erath-Str.  11;  Ored<J,  Leberberg  1  (5-9  UT);  Villa  Mon- 
reposy  Frankfurter-Str.  6;  Villa  Orandpair,  Emser-Str.  13,  and  many  others. 
At  Wiesbaden  an  arrangement  should  always  be  made  as  to  the  length 
of  notice  required  from  visitors  leaving  a  pension. 

Restaurants.  At  the  *Curhaut  (see  p.  149),  D.  (i-3p.m.)  4  Jt;  "Cafi- 
Restaurant  Mitropole,  WiWmlm-i^tr.  8  (p.  145),  1).  (12-2.3frp.m.)  2Y2-3V2  J(; 
^RaiTiskeller ,  in  the  Rathhaus  (p.  150;  entr,  from  the  Markt-Str.),  D.  IVa, 
2,&QJl  (badly  ventilated);  Orilner  Wald  (see  p.  145),  Markt-Str.  10;  *Mutter- 
Engel^  Langgasse  46,  D.  174-21/2  M;  Ca/dt  Orient  a.ni  Beatuite  (see  below); 
Nonnenho/j  see  above,  D.  1  Uf  90  &  1  Uf  SO  pf. ;  Deutsclur  Keller^  at  the  Rhein- 
Hotel  (p.  145),  D.  from  i^lzJt;  Buchmann^  Spiegelgasse  5;  Rothes  Haus^ 
Kirchgasse  60,  D.  I-IV2  Jt;  Krokodil  (with  bedrooms  to  let),  Luisen-Str.  37, 
D.  IV4  Jf;  Poths,  Langgasse  11 ;  ScMUsenhof  (;p.  143),  with  garden,  moderate; 
SchUtzenhaus  (John)^  Unter  den  Eichen,  with  garden,  D.  from  IV4,  S.  from 
1  J(;  Friedrichshof,  Friedrich-Str.  86;  Tivoli,  Luisen-Str.  2,  D.  I-IV2  U(  ; 
Vogely  see  above.  —  Wine.  *RathshelUry  see  above ;  Maleparius^  Langgasse 43 ; 
Rhenish  Wine  Room^  Spiegelgasse  4,  D.  fW>m  IV4  Ji^  often  crowded  at  midday 
in  summer;  Meier^  Luisen-Str.  12,  D.  IV^Ulf;  *Pohl,  Michelsberg  10 ;  Rhein- 
gauer  Winterstube  (depftt  of  the  Winaer-Verein),  Bahnhof-Str.  5.—  Lunchbom 
Booms  :  ^Oreiher,  Heugasse  24.  — -  *Continenial  Bodega^  Wilhelm-Str.  18; 
Central  Bodega^  Untere  Webergasse  23. 

Cafes.  *Cafi  ffohentoUem,  Wilhelm-Str.  8;  *Blitm,  Wilhelm-Str.  40); 
Kaiserbad^  Wilhelm-Str.  42;  several  caf^  in  the  Cur-Oarteny  see  p.  149, 
'^Orient  (Pi.  A,  1:  p.  158),  Unter  den  Eichen,  in  the  Moorish  style;  Beavsite 
(Bl.  B,  2;  p.  152),  both  with  gardens,  much  frequented  on  summer-afternoons 
—  Oonfeetioners.  Ctifi  Blum  and  Cafi  Kaiserbad  (see  above);  *Lehmann 
Grosse  Burg-Str.  14;  Kunder,  Museum-Str.  8.  —  Milk  Rooms,  at  the  Bad 
l^erothal  (see  p.  147). 

Visitors'  Tax.  The  following  tariff  is  paid  for  admission  to  the  Gurhaus: 

(a)  For  a  year:  1  person  dO  Jt,  for  families,  each  additional  pers.  iOJf.  — 

(b)  For  six  weeks:  1  person  15  »#)  for  families,  each  pers.  additional  5  »#•  — 


Notes, 


WIESBADEN. 


21.B0UU,  147 


<c)  For  a  day,  1  U(.  Extra -tickets  required  for  large  garden -fStes,  special 
concerts,  etc.  The  following  charges  are  made  for  the  use  of  the  Koch- 
bmnnen:  daily  tickets  10  pf.,  quarterly  3,  yearly  6  •#.  —  The  Curverein 
(office  in  the  Gursaal)  will  supply  visitors  with  any  information  they  may 
desire. 

Sanatoria.  Lindenhof  (Dr.  van  HeenenX  Walkmiihl-Str.  45  (PI.  A,  3)  \ 
JHetmmUhle  (PI.  G,  3),  Park-Str.  44  (Dr.  Watzoldt)^  Dr.  QierlicKi  Curhaus^ 
Schone  Aussicbt  30  (PI.  F,  3,  4) ;  Nerothal^  at  the  entrance  to  the  lierothal 
(PL  G,  2;  Dr.  Schubert;  pens.  6*12  U();  in  these  baths  of  all  kinds,  treat- 
ment by  massage,  electrotherapy,  etc.  —  Besides  the  above-mentioned, 
there  are  several  other  establishments  for  nervous  complaints,  maladies 
of  the  eyes,  etc. 

Theatres.  *  Royal  Theatre  (PI.  E,4;  seep.  148),  for  opera,  drama,  and 
ballet;  special  performances  at  raised  prices  in  May  (but  not  every  year); 
clo'ied  from  the  middle  of  July  to  the  end  of  August.  —  RendenX'Theater 
(PI.  D,  6),  Bahnhof-Str.  20,  for  modem  plays  and  farces,  reserved  seat 
2-3  jH;  Walhalla(V\.  D,  5),  Mauritius-Str.  la;  ReichshaUen,  Stift-Str.  16,  these 
two  theatres  of  varieties. 

Concerts  in  the  Cur-Garten  or  Cursaal  daily,  4-5.30  and  8-9.30  p.m. ;  also 
in  summer  at  the  Kochbrtinnen ,  6.30-8  a.m.  (50  pf. ;  free  to  subscribers  to 
the  Gurhaus).  —  Orchestral  Oonoerts  in  winter  in  the  CwJunu  (ev.  Frid. 
from  Kov.  to  Feb.;  5,  4,  2  UV)  and  at  the  Royal  Theatre  (six  symphony 
concerts).  The  Verein  der  KUnttUr  und  Kunelfreunde  gives  concerts  of  chamber 
music  in  the  Victoria  Hotel. 

Festivals.  Masked  balls,  etc.,  in  the  Curhaus.  —  Battle  of  Flower*  in 
the  Cursaal-Platz,  during  the  special  May  performances  in  the  theatre  (but 
not  every  year).  —  Andreeu-Markt,  in  the  Luxemburg-Plata  (PL  C,  7),  on 
the  first  Thurs.  &  Frid.  in  December,  followed  at  night  by  confetti-throwing, 
etc.,  in  the  Restaurant  M^tropole,  Bathskeller,  Hot.  Qruner  Wald,  etc. 

Permanent  Exhibition..  R.  Bavjfer't  Eunet- Salon  ^  Taunus-Str.  6,  adm. 
i  J(;  Nattauiseher  Kunttverein,  in  the  Museum  (p.  150),  adm.  free. 

Cycling  Tracks,  ff.  GrUn^  Mainzer-Str. ;  Stoll^  Adolfsbohe  (p.  153).  — 
Iiawn  Texmis  Courts.  Blumenwiese  (PI.  G,  4),  in  the  Cur-Garten;  Beatuite 
(p.  152);  Spori-Plaiz  det  EUkluUy  in  the  Wolkenbruch  (PL  A,  1). 

Cab  Tariff  (double^fares  from  11  p.  m.  to  6  or  7  a.  m.). 

Drive  in  the  town  or  to  any  of  the  villas  as  far  as 
the  Dietenmiihle 

1-2  persons 

3-4  persons 

By  time:  per  hour* within  the  town,  1-4  pers 

-    beyond 

^        ..  "k  (In  each  case  the  hirer 

lussian  Ghapel  Tlr '?n? Ven  re' 

Neroberg   BierstSdter  Warte,  or  S  4%f '  ^f  >»  J  Jf  «°jim; 

T»<l^S!?!!\f  fa'«8 ;  each  additional 

,    Biel>rfcl»  I  v,  hr.  30-50  pf.) 

To  the  Russian  Ghapel,  Neroberg,  Platte,  and  back, 
with  stay  of  IV2  hr 

To  Schlangenbad,  \i&  Biebrich  A  Bauenthal  (1/2  day) 

To  Schwalbach  and  back  (whole  day) 

To  Schwalbach,  and  back  by  Schlangenbad 

To  Eppstein  and  Eonigstein,  and  back  (1  day)  .... 

Trunk  20  pf ,  smaller  articles  free.  —  To  or  from  the  railway-stations 
20  pf.  extra. 

The  Taxameter  Cabs,  recognized  by  their  red  wheels,  have  a  special 
tariflf  (by  time). 

Electric  Tramways  (with  transfer-tickets).  1.  (with  red  board):  From 
Bia>rieh  (p.  136)  via  Adolfshdhe  (p.  163) ,  Rondel  (PL  D ,  8) ,  Adolfs-Allee 
(PL  D,  7.  6;  returning  by  the  Moritz-Str  ),  the  Railway  Stations  (PL  E,  6), 
Wilhelm-Str.,  and  Kochbrunnen  to  BeauiUe  (PL  B,  1,  2),  2  min.  from  the 

10* 


One-h. 

Jfvt 

TufO-h. 
Ufpf. 

-  60 
-80 
2- 
280 

-  90 
1  10 
3- 
4  — 

1  — 

1  70 
240 
280 

1  40 

2  - 

3  — 

380 

9.40 
13.30 
16- 
16  - 
25- 

12- 
16  30 

18  50 
20  — 
32- 

148  Route  21,  WIESBADEN.  History. 

terminus  of  the  Keroberg  railway  (p.  152).  Last  car  at  11.80  (back  12  mid- 
night) ;  fare  80  pf.  \  from  the  Railway  Stations  15,  from  the  Gurhans  10  pf. 
—  2.  (yellow  board) :  From  the  Lcmgenbtci-Phxtz  (PI.  F,  7)  via  the  Railway 
Stations  KirchgHSse  (PI.  D,  6,  5),  Langgasse,  Eochbrunnen ,  and  Sonnen- 
berger-Str.  (PI  E-G,  4,  3)  to  Sonnenberg  (p.  lo3);  fare  30  pf.,  from  the 
Rossler-Str.  10  pf.  —  8.  (blue  board) :  From  the  Raihony  Siattont  (PI.  E,  6), 
via  Markt-Str.  (PI.  D,  5),  Bmser-Str.,  Walkmiihl - Str.  (Lindenhof),  and 
Schutzen-Str.  to  Unter  den  Eichen  (PI.  A,  1;  p.  153);  fare  20  pf.,  from  the 
Schloss-Platz  15  pf.  —  4.  (green  board):  From  the  Railway  Stationfl  via  the 
Ringkirche  (PI.  B,  C.  6),  and  Sedan-Platz  (PI.  B,  0.  5)  to  the  Eftuer-Straste 
(PI   B,  G,  4*7  fare  10  pf.),  going  on  in  summer  between  4  and  7  p.m.  to 


Unter  der  Eich&n  (20  pf.).  —  The  cars  start  every  71/2  min. ,  or  on  certain 
sections  every  V4  br.  in  the  forenoon  (comp.  the  pocket  tin       " 
The  principal  terminus  is  in  front  of  the  Taunus  Stat. on. 


Post  and  Telegraph  OfAce  (PI.  £,6),  Rhein-Str.  25;  branch-offtces  at 
Taunus-Str.  1  (PL  E,  4),  etc. 

English  Ohurch  (8t.  Auguatine"*)  in  the  Wilhelm-Strasse ;  services  at 
8.80  and  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m.  (summer  6  p.m.).  Ghaplain,  Rev.  E.  /.  TreUe^ 
Kaiser-Friedrich-Ring  86. 

Wiesbaden  (385  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  90  ft.  above  the  Rhine), 
with  86,000  inhab.,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Nassau, 
lies  on  the  S.W.  spurs  of  the  Taunus  Mts.,  in  a  basin  surrounded 
by  orchards  and  vineyards.  The  pleasant  town,  with  its  attractive 
public  grounds  and  beautiful  environs,  is  annually  visited  by  up- 
wards of  130,000  patients  and  travellers.  The  excellence  of  its 
sanatory  establishments,  coupled  with  the  mildness  of  the  climate 
(mean  annual  temperature  51^  Fahr.),  renders  it  a  favourite  resort 
of  strangers,  even  in  winter,  when  living  is  moreover  less  expen- 
sive than  in  summer. 

Wieibaden^  the  Roman  Aquae  Mattiaeomm^  was  one  of  the  Roman  forts 
to  defend  the  frontier  of  the  Main  and  may  have  existed  as  such  Irom  the 
time  of  Brusus.  Discoveries  made  in  the  Hauritius-Str.  (1895-97)  show  that 
it  was  already  a  considerable  settlement  in  the  middle  of  the  first  century 
of  our  era  (canabse,  see  p.  156).  This  was  probably  destroyed  by  the 
Mattiaci  in  69-70  A.D.,  but  had  again  attained  prosperity  at  the  end  of  the 
century  as  the  chief  place  of  the  Civita*  Mattiacorum,  In  the  reign  of  Do- 
mitian  the  Wiesbaden  castle  (p.  150)  was  still  one  of  the  advanced  defences 
of  Mayence ,  but  Hadrian  removed  the  garrison  (Gohors  II.  Reetorum)  to 
the  Saalburg  (p.  244).  Pliny  (Hist.  Kat.  xxi.  2)  refers  to  the  warm  springs 
in  the  following  words :  '■Sunt  Mattiaci  in  Oennania  fontes  calidi  trans  Rhe- 
nuiHy  quorum  haustus  triduo  ferveC.  —  In  the  Frankish  period  and  later 
'Wisibada^  appears  as  the  capital  of  a  district  called  'Ednigssundra-Gau\ 
It  was  the  capital  of  the  Counts  of  !Nassau-Idstein  and  I^assau-Usingen 
from  1355  onwards,  and  of  the  duchy  of  ^Nassau  from  1816  to  1866. 

From  the  Rail-way  Stations  (PI.  E,  6)  the  traveller  crosses  the 
Rhein-Str.  (p.  161)  and  enters  the  Wilhelm-Strasae  (PI.  E,  6,  5,  4), 
the  Gorso  of  Wiesbaden,  planted  with  trees  and  flanked  with  hotels, 
attractive  shops,  and  the  Museum  (p.  150).  To  the  right  it  is  ad- 
joined by  the  Wilhelms-Platz  (PI.  E,  5,  6),  with  a  bronze  Statue  of 
Bismarck,  by  Herter  (1898),  and  by  the  Anlagen,  or  public  pleasure- 
grounds,  of  the  Warme  Damm  (PI.  E,  5),  in  which  rises  Schilling's 
^Monument  to  Emp,  WiUiam  I.  (1894).  —  Farther  on  is  the  back 
of  the  Boyal  Theatre  (PI.  E,  4),  built  in  1892-94  by  Fellrher  and 
Hellmer  (handsome  baroque  interior;  new  foyer  by  Oensmer,  1902). 

At  the  end  of  the  avenue,  to  the  left,  lies  the  Kaisbb-Fbiedbich- 


Ourhaus,  '    WIESBADEN.  21.  Route.   149 

PiiATZ  (PI.  E,  4),  adorned  with  a  bronze  Statue  ofEmp.  Frederick  III. 
by  Upliues  (1897).  —  On  the  right  is  the  Oubsaal-Platz,  em- 
bellished with  flower-beds  and  two  fountains,  and  flanked  by 
spacious  Doric  Colonnades  (PI.  E,  4),  which  serve  as  a  bazaar.  In 
the  new  colonnade  is  the  entrance  to  the  Royal  Theatre  (p.  148). 
Above  the  old  colonnade  is  a  bronze  bust  of  the  poet  Bodenstedt, 
who  died  at  Wiesbaden  in  1892. 

The  Cnrhans  (PL  E,  4;  adm.,  see  p.  147),  built  in  1809-10 
from  designs  by  Zais,  and  dedicated  Tontibus  Mattiacis',  is  about 
to  be  rebuilt.  The  facade  consists  of  an  Ionic  portico,  while  at  the 
sides  are  long  colonnades  supported  by  Doric  columns.  The  principal 
haU  is  121  ft.  long,  49  ft.  wide,  and  33  ft.  high.  The  orchestra 
galleries  are  supported  by  28  Corinthian  columns  and  4  half-columns 
of  red  and  grey  marble.  On  the  N.  side  is  the  restaurant,  on  the  S. 
side  the  concert  and  ball  rooms  and  the  reading-rooms. 

The  *Ciir-Park,  at  the  back  of  the  Curhaus,  with  which  it  com- 
municates by  an  iron  arcade,  is  the  favourite  afternoon  and  evening 
lounge  of  visitors  to  the  baths,  as  well  as  of  excursionists  from 
Mayence  and  the  neighbourhood,  who,  especially  on  Sundays,  flock 
to  these  shady  grounds  to  sip  their  coffee  and  enjoy  the  music.  A 
fountain  with  a  jet  100  ft.  in  height  plays  in  the  great  pond  every 
afternoon.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  Our-Park  lies  the  handsomest  residen- 
tial quarter  of  the  town,  with  numerous  attractive  villas  and  gardens, 
especially  in  the  Park-Strasse,  Rosen-Strasse,  and  Blumen-Strasse. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Cursaal-Platz,  on  the  hill  above  the  Sonnen- 
berger-Str.  (p.  153),  is  the  Paulinen-Schlosschen  (PI.  E,  4),  which 
will  serve  as  a  temporary  Curhaus  during  the  rebuilding  of  the 
present  structure. 

From  the  N.  end  of  the  Wilhelm-Str.  the  Taunus-Strassb 
(PI.  D,  E,  3,  4)  runs  to  the  N.  towards  the  Nerothal  (comp.  p.  152). 
To  the  left  stands  the  Trinkhalle  (PI.  D,  4),  built  by  BogUr  in 
1888-90  and  consisting  of  a  central  pavilion  and  three  colonnades 
enclosing  a  garden.  Visitors  drink  the  waters  here  from  6  or  7 
to  8  a.m.  and  at  Intervals  throughout  the  day  (concerts,  see  p.  147). 

Below  the  central  pavilion  is  the  Kochbrunnen  (PI.  D,  4),  the  combined 
outpour  of  16  hot  springs,  which  rise  within  an  area  of  a  few  square  yards 
and  yield  about  5000  gallons  per  hour.  The  water  has  a  natural  temperature 
of  156**  Fahr.  and  contains  8.76  per  cent  of  solid  matter,  chiefly  chloride  of 
sodium.  The  external  use  of  the  waters  is  beneficial  in  cases  of  rheu- 
matism, gout,  neuralgia,  and  other  nervous  diseases,  their  action  resem- 
bling that  of  the  Wildbad  springs,  like  which  they  contain  very  little  salt. 
Internally  they  are  prescribed  for  chronic  dyspepsia,  excessive  obesity,  etc. 
In  addition  to  the  Kochbrunnen,  which,  however,  is  almost  entirely  used 
for  drinking,  there  are  no  fewer  than  23  bathing-springs,  the  chief  of  which 
are  the  Schtitzenhof-Quelle  and  the  Adler-Qnelle. 

The  marble  Hygieia  Group  in  the  E&anz-Platz  (PI.  D,  4)  is  by 
Hoffmann  of  Wiesbaden.  The  Langgasse  (PI.  D,  4,  5),  which  issues 
from  the  Eranz-Platz,  and  the  first  cross-street  to  the  left,  the 
XJntere  Webergasse,  are  the  main  streets  of  the  old  part  i^f  the  town. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


150  BouU2l.  WIESBADEN.  Palace. 

From  about  the  middle  of  the  Langgasse  the  Kirchhofgasse  leads  to 
the  right  to  the  old  Cemetery^  now  turned  into  a  promenade  (good  view) 
and  partly  destroyed  by  the  formation  of  a  new  street  througu  it  (1902). 
On  its  N.E.  side  stretches  the  Heidentnauer  ('heathens  walFj  PI.  D,  4),  a 
line  of  £oman  masonry.  66  ft.  long,  15  ft.  nigh,  and  9  ft.  thick.  It  waa 
probably  part  of  the  defences  erected  under  Diocletian  soon  after  3(X)  A.D. 

On  the  top  of  the  Michdtherg  (PI.  D,  5)  stands  the  Synagogue,  a  Moorish 
structure  with  five  cupolas,  built  by  HoflFmann  in  1863-69. 

At  the  end  of  the  Langgasse  we  turn  to  the  left,  along  the  Markt- 
Str.,  cross  the  Schloss-Platz  and  the  Mabkt-Platz  (PI.  D,  E,  6}, 
and  regain  the  Wilhelm-Str.  (p.  148). 

The  royal  (formerly  ducal)  Palace  (PI.  D,  5),  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  Schloss-Platz,  was  built  by  Qotrz  in  1837-40,  and  renovated  in 
1883.  Visitors  are  admitted  daily  from  10  to  4,  5,  or  G(adm.  25  pf. ; 
entrance  through  the  *0avalierhau8').  The  staircase  is  adorned  with 
eight  sandstone  statues  by  Sch'Wanthaler,  and  in  the  dining-room 
are  two  Spanish  dancers,  over  lifesize,  by  the  same  sculptor.  The 
reception  and  ball  rooms  are  embellished  with  frescoes  by  Pose,  and 
some  of  the  other  rooms  contain  good  pictures  by  modern  masters. 
—  Adjoining  it  is  the  *  Wilhelms-Heilanstalt\  or  military  hospital, 
built  by  Hoffmann  (1871). 

The  BatUiaus  (PI.  D,  5)  is  a  handsome  building  in  the  German 
Renaissance  style,  erected  in  1884-87  from  Hauberrisser's  designs. 
On  the  balcony  above  the  flight  of  steps  are  statues  of  four  civic 
virtues  by  Schies,  The  great  hall  is  still  unfinished.  —  The  Raths- 
keller (p.  146)  is  decorated  with  frescoes  by  Koglefj  Scklitt,  and 
Weimar. 

The  Gothic  Markt-Kirche  (PI.  E,  5 ;  Prot.),  built  by  Boos  of 
polished  bricks  in  1853-62,  has  five  towers  (the  principal  nearly 
300  ft.  high).  The  choir  is  adorned  with  colossal  marble  statues  of 
Christ  and  the  four  Evangelists,  by  E.  Hopfgarten,  Bell  for  the 
sacristan  on  the  right  of  the  main  entrance  (V2"l  *^)'  —  The  aA- 
joinmg  High  School  for  Girla,  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice  in  sandstone, 
was  built  by  Genzmer  (1901). 

In  the  centre  of  the  market-place  rises  a  new  Fountain  (Markt- 
Brunnen;  1902). 

The  Museum  (PI.  E,  5),  Wilhelm-Str.  20,  occupying  a  building 
erected  by  Zais  in  1813-17  as  a  palace  for  the  crown-prince,  con- 
tains the  municipal  picture-gallery,  collections  of  antiquities  and 
natural  history  specimens,  and  a  library. 

The  Piotnre  Gallery,  on  the  groundfloor  to  the  right,  is  open  daily, 
except  Sat.,  11-1  and  3-5  (in  winter,  3-4);  on  Sun.,  10-1;  catalogue  (1901) 
40  pf.  It  contains  a  collection  of  modern  pictures  and  some  early  German 
and  Netherlandish  works,  etc.  (many  concealed  by  pictures  exhibited  by 
the  Nassau  Art  Union).  —  Boom  I.,  chiefly  early  works.  On  the  entfance- 
wall:  189.  Jan  FytO\  Head  of  a  sporting  dog-,  164.  Imitator  of  Rembrandt 
(18th  cent.),  Faust  and  Mephistopheles •,  230.  E.  de  Witte^  Synagogue  at 
Amsterdam;  221.  Hans  8chau/elin^  Portrait.  Opposite:  228.  Joosvan  Craes- 
beeck^  Officer;  158.  Angelica  Kaufmann^  Portrait;  255.  Antwerp  School 
(IBth  cent.),  Pieta  f copy  of  Quinten  Matsys  ?) ;  no  number,  Lenbach^  Portrait 
(1885).  —  Boom  II.,  chiefly  early -German  works;  17.  School  of  Cranachy 


Museum.  WIESBADEN.  21.  Route.   151 

Mary  Magdalen;  9.  B.  Bruyn  the  Elder ^  Visitation  (early  work);  264.  Jan  van 
Ravesteifni'i)^  Portrait;  220.  L.  Cranach^  Adam  and  Kve;  18.  Master  of  the  Holy 
'Kinship  8t.  Bernard,  with  holy  women.  To  the  left:  Oirol.  Mazzola  (Parmese 
School),  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine.  —  Room  III.,  chiefly  Netherlandish 
works.  1st  Section :  W.  v.  Kobdl^  43.  Best,  45.  Steep  hill  (1790) ;  55,  i».  de  Rinff, 
Still-life;  80.  P.  Wouverman,  Horses;  64.  F.  Snydert  Still-life.  —2nd  Section : 
72.  Ruhent^  Battle  of  Amazons  (  riginal  in  Munich) ;  227.  /.  Wynantt,  Land- 
scape (signature  forged);  229.  Com.  Huytmans^  Arcadian  landscape.  Wall: 
to  the  left,  231,  *76.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-pieces.  —  Room  IV.  Modern 
German  works:  176.  F.  Piloty^  Sir  Thomas  More  in  prison;  262.  TrVbner^ 
Convent-court  at  Amorbach  (1899);  L.  Knaus,  244.  Spring-idyll,  *184.  Tavern- 
scene;  213.  ff.  Baisch^  Spring-morning;  237.  Weiehaupt^  Sheep  in  early  spring; 
261.  F?fic*er,  Landscape;  no  number,  Hans  Th&ma^  Children  in  the  poultry 
yard.  —  Boom  V.  Modem  German  works:  166.  Letting^  Forest-scene;  243, 
E.  LugOy  Grove;  195.  0.  Achenbach,  Coast  near  Naples;  196.  H.  Thoma^ 
Landscape.  By  the  window,  modern  French  and  German  plaquettes  and 
medals.  —  Boom  VI.  202.  Lindeneehmitt ,  Lnther  before  Cardinal  Cajetan 
At  Augsburg  in  1518.    By  the  window,  plaquettes  and  medals. 

The  Oollection  of  Antiquities,  on  the  groundfloor,  to  the  left,  is  open 
in  summer  on  Mon.,  Tues..  Wed.,  Thurs.,  &  Frid.  11-1  &  3-5,  on  Sun.  10-1 
(in  winter  on  Wed.  &  Sat.  11-1  only) ;  at  other  times  on  application  to  the 
keeper,  Friedrich-Str.  1,  fee  50  pf. ;  good  catalogue  (1899)  1  Jt.  Antk-Room. 
Boman  inscriptions,  mile'stones,  tombstones,  bridge-piles.  —  Room  I.  Objects 
of  the  stone,  bronze,  and  iron  ages.  —  Room  II.  Roman  antiquities;  broD7e 
door  from  Mayence;  in  the  cases  bronze  statuettes  and  reliefs  and  other 
small  articles  In  the  middle,  Boman  and  Frankish  ornaments.  —  Boom  III. 
Greek  and  Italic  pottery;  ""Jupiter  Column  from  Schierstein,  erected  by  a 
legionary  in  221  A.D.  i  model  of  the  Boman  fortress  on  the  Heidenberg 
(p.  152);  Mithras  stone  from  Heddemheim.  —  Boom  IV.  Remains  of  heating- 
apparatus;  female  figure  (Muse?);  figure  of  Jupiter.  —  Boom  V.  Boman 
coins,  glass,  and  shoes ;  "^Inscription  in  bronze-gilt  letters,  in  honour  of 
Caracalla  (213  A.D.),  from  fortress  on  the  Pfahlgraben  at  Holzhausen.  — 
Room  VI.  Objects  found  in  Alemanuian  and  Frankish  tombs  (ca.  350-800 
A.D.).  —  Room  VII.  Medieeval  and  modem  objects.  In  the  middle,  Roman 
and  Nassovian  coins.  —  Room  VIII.  Instruments  of  torture,  ecclesiastical 
sculptures;  local  costumes  of  Nassau;  stained  glass.  In  the  middle,  tomb- 
stones of  Diether  UI.  (p.  120)  and  Diether  IV.  (d.  lol5).  Counts  of  Katzen- 
elnbogen.  —  The  Demmin  Bequest ,  including  a  rich  collection  of  pottery, 
is  exhibited  in  the  municipal  excise-office,  Neugasse  6  (PI.  D,  5). 

The  first  floor  contains  a  well-arranged  Natubal  Histoht  Collection 
(adm.  in  summer,  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  &  Frid.  3-5,  Sun.  11-1). 

The  LiB&ARY  (daily,  except  Sun.,  10-1  d^  3-8),  in  the  upper  story,  con- 
tains 120,(XX)  printed  volumes  and  many  valuable  old  MSS.  Among  its 
treasures  are  the  Vision  of  St.  Hildegard  (3IS.  of  the  12-13th  cent.);  Portion 
of  an  astronomical  calendar  of  1447,  being  the  earliest  printed  work  by 
Gutenberg  to  which  a  date  can  be  assigned  (discovered  in  1901);  and  the 
Mayence  Calholicon  of  1460  (comp.  p.  163). 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St.  Bonifacius  (PI.  D,  5,  6),  in 
the  Lulsen-Platz  (PI.  D,  6),  on  the  N.  side  of  tbe  Rhbin-Stbassb 
(Pi.  0,  D,  E,  6J,  was  built  by  Hoffmann  in  1844-49,  and  is  a  hand- 
some structure  in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  Gothic  details  and 
groined  vaulting.  Altar-piece  on  the  right,  Madonna  and  Child,  by 
Steinle;  left,  St.  Boniface,  by  Bethel.  —  In  front  of  the  church  is  a 
sandstone  Obelisk,  erected  in  1865  to  the  memory  of  the  Nassovian 
soldiers  who  fell  at  Waterloo.  —  To  the  W.  the  Rhein-Str.  ends  at 
the  Protestant  Bingkirche  (PI.  B,  C,  6),  a  noteworthy  edifice  by  Otzen, 
in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  consecrated  in  1894  (sacristan,  An 
der  Ringkirche  3 ;  fee  60  pf.). 

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152  BouU  21.  WIESBADEN.  Environs,. 

The  Frankfu/rter-Strasse  (PL  E,  F,  6,  6J ,  diverging  from  the 
Wllhelm-Str.  opposite  the  Museum  (p.  150j,  fonns  the  chief  ap- 
proach to  the  Rbsidbntial  Quartbe  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  town. 
Immediately  to  the  right  is  the  English  Church  (Pl.E,  6).  Farther 
on,  in  the  Victoria-Str.,  is  the  *Anga8ta  Victoria  Bad  (PI.  F,  6),  a 
handsome  Renaissance  building,  erected  in  1890-94.  Its  interior 
arrangements  are  very  complete  and  interesting  (adm.  1  uSf). 

In  the  high-lying  humbler  quarter  to  the  W.  of  the  Taunus-Str. 
stands  the  Protestant  Bergkirche  (PI.  D,  4),  a  good  example  of  Hano- 
verian Gothic,  by  Otzen  (1877-79).  The  interior  is  adorned  with 
frescoes  by  Schmidt.  —  At  the  corner  of  the  Keller -Str.  and 
Platter-Str.  lies  the  Roman  Catholic  Mariahilf-Kircht  (PI.  0,  3,  4), 
built  by  Meckel  in  the  Rhenish  Transitional  style  (1893-95). 

The  adjacent  Gastell-Strasse  (PI.  G,  4)  recalls  by  its  name  the  Roman 
Castle  (p.  148),  of  which  remains  were  found  in  1833  on  the  top  of  the 
Heidenberg  here. 

Near  the  Mariahilf  Church  is  the  Old  Cemetery  (PI.  C,  3),  with  a  mau- 
soleum of  the  Duchess  Pauline  (d.  1856)  and  other  handsome  monuments. 
—  I  he  New  Cemetery  (PL  A,  1),  at  the  terminus  of  tramway  No.  3  (p.  148), 
contains  the  tombs  of  Franz  Abt  (d.  1835)  and  F.  Bodenstedt  (p.  14b). 

Enyieonb  op  Wibsbadbn. 

The  most  popular  open-air  resort  near  Wiesbaden,  frequented 
alike  by  walker,  driYer,  and  cyclist,  is  the  charming  *Nerothal, 
at  the  entrance  to  which  (PI.  C,  D,  2)  is  a  War  Monument  (1872). 
Two  roads,  the  new  Echo-Strasse  (left)  and  the  old  road  (tramway 
No.  1) ,  affording  pleasant  views  of  the  vine-clad  Neroberg  and  the 
Greek  Chapel,  lead  along  the  valley  to  (8/4  M.)  the  CafS-Restaurant 
Beauaite  and  the  station  of  the  Neroberg  Cable  Tramway  (train  ev. 
Y4-72  ^^'  ill  summer;  fare  25,  down  16,  up  and  down  30  pf.). 

The  road  ascends  to  the  Platter- Str aste  (p.  152),  passing  a  monument 
to  the  geologist  Koch  (d.  1888),  a  quartzite  quarry,  and  the  insignificant 
Leichtweiu  Cavern,  where  the  pretty  road  to  the  Rabengrund  diverges  to 
the  right  (see  p.  153). 

The  wooded  •Keroberg  (800  ft. ;  PI.  B,  0,  1),  to  the  N.E.  of, 
and  1/4  hr.  above  Beausite,  is  ascended  by  the  cable-tramway,  by  a 
steep  zigzag  path,  and  by  the  pleasant  ^Philosophenweg'.  At  the  top  is 
a  frequented  Hdtel-Restaurant  (p.  146).  The  tower  (10  pf.)  affords 
a  fine  view  of  the  Taunus,  with  the  Rhine  valley  and  the  Odenwald 
to  the  S.E. ,  the  towers  of  Mayence  to  the  S.  (beyond  the  Biebrich 
water-tower),  and  the  distant  Donnersberg  (p.  286)  to  the  W. 

To  the  S.E.,  a  few  minutes  below  the  summit  (most  easily 
reached  from  the  Neroberg-Str.  station  of  the  tramway ;  pleasantest 
route  through  the  Dambach-Thal^  PI.  D,  2),  is  situated  the  ♦Greek 
Chapel  (PI.  C,  1 ;  538  ft.),  erected  in  1848-55  from  the  designs  of 
Hoffmann  as  a  mausoleum  for  the  Duchess  Elizabeth  Michailowna, 
a  Russian  princess  (d.  1845). 

The  richly-decorated  chapel,  90  ft.  in  height,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  is  covered  by  a  large  and  four  smaller  domes,  all  gilded  and  sur- 
mounted by  Russian  double  crosses.    The  highest  cross  is  180  ft  from  the 

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Ermrow.  WIESBADEN.  21,  Route,   153 

ground.  The  interior  is  entirely  of  marble.  A  rich  altar-screen  (Jkonostcu)^ 
with  namerous  figures  of  saints  on  a  golden  ground,  painted  in  Russia, 
separates  the  body  of  the  chapel  from  the  choir,  to  which  the  priests  and 
their  attendants  alone  have  access.  The  altar,  above  which  is  a  window 
with  a  stained-glass  figure  of  the  Saviour,  is  visible  only  during  divine 
service.  A  pentagonal  recess  on  the  N.  side  contains  the  beautiful  Mon- 
ument of  the  Duchess^  by  Emil  Hopfgarten.  The  angels,  prophets,  and 
evangelists  in  the  dome  and  spandrels  are  by  the  painter  Aug.  Hopfgarten. 
Except  during  the  Sun.  service  (11-1;  in  summer  only),  the  chapel  is 
shown  by  the  sacristan,  who  lives  near  the  Russian  cemetery  (1  .#,  several 
persons  50  pf.  each). 

Pleasant  walks  intersect  the  wood  (fine  old  oaks)  in  every  di- 
rection and  extend  past  the  Reservoir  and  the  (35  mln.)  Trauerbuche 
(finger-post)  to  the  (II/4  hr.)  Platte  (see  below).  Other  paths,  also 
indicated  by  finger-posts,  lead  to  the  Speierskopf  (V4  hr.),  the 
Felsengruppe  (Q^ miii,')j  the Leichtweisshohle (2b min.  ]  p.  152),  and 
past  the  Melibocu8  Oak  to  the  Hdtel-Rtstaurant  Bahriholt  (p.  146). 

The  Platte  (1640  ft.),  a  hill  about  41/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Wies- 
baden (comp.  the  Map,  p.  130),  with  a  shooting-lodge  of  the  Grand- 
Duke  of  Luxembourg,  built  in  1824,  is  frequently  visited  for  the 
extensive  view  (finest  by  evening-light).  The  two  fine  stags  at  the 
entrance  were  modelled  by  Ranch ;  in  the  interior  is  a  fine  collection 
of  antlers  and  furniture  made  from  antlers  (adm.  1  USf,  for  a  party 
50  pf.  each).  Inn  adjacent.  Besides  the  above-mentioned  footpath 
and  the  Nerothal  road,  the  Platte  is  reached  by  the  Plattbb-St&assb, 
which  leads  past  the  cemeteries  (cab,  see  p.  147). 

Kear  the  Kew  Cemetery  (p.  152)  and  the  SehiUzenhallen  is  the  popular 
resort  known  as  *Unter  den  Eiohen'  (terminus  of  the  electric  tramway 
No.  3,  p.  148),  with  various  unpretending  garden-restaurants.  Forest-paths 
lead  hence  to  the  charm  ngly  situated  Augusta  Victoria  Temple  (2  min.  to 
the  N.  of  the  last  bend  of  the  tramway)  and  to  the  K.W.  through  the 
Adams-Thai  to  the  (Vs  hr.)  Waldhdu$ehea  (garden-restaurant)  and  the  (10  min.) 
Pisoioaltural  Establishment,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  by  the  keeper 
(restaurant).  We  may  return  by  the  Platter-Str.  (comp.  Map,  p.  130),  or, 
crossing  this  road,  by  a  footpath  through  the  pine-woods  and  the  Rdben- 
grund  (p.  162). 

About  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Wiesbaden,  to  the  right  of  the  old  Schwal- 
bach  (Ems)  road,  lies  the  nunnery  of  Clarenthal  (rfmta.),  founded  in  1296 
by  King  Adolph  of  Nassau  and  his  consort  Imagina  of  Limburg.  and 
dissolved  in  1569.  A  little  farther  up  is  a  building  formerly  used  as  a 
Pheatantry  (Fatanerie),  with  an  old  park.  A  shady  footpath  leads  hence  to 
the  (i/shr.)  Chaueseehaus  mentioned  at  p.  148. 

Wiesbaden  is  connected  with  Mo$bach~Biebrich  (p.  135 ;  3  M. 
to  the  S.)  by  the  Adolfs-Alltfe  (PI.  D,  7),  the  Biebricher  Strasse 
(PI.  D,  8)l,  and  the  Wiesbadener  AlMe,  each  with  a  double  avenue 
of  horse-chestnuts.  Halfway  to  the  village,  beyond  the  Adolfihbhe, 
are  the  Nexie  Adolf shohe  and  Rheinhohe,  two  caf ^s-restaurants.  Farther 
on  is  the  Biebrich  Water  Tower ,  built  in  1897  (view  extending  to 
the  Niederwald).  Those  who  use  the  electric  tramway  (No.  1,  p.  147) 
should  alight  in  Mosbach  at  the  *Schloss-Park'  station  and  walk 
through  the  park  to  the  Rhine  (1/4  hr.). 

By  following  either  the  villa-lined  Sonnbnbebobb-St&abbb  (PL 
E,  F,  4 ;  electric  tramway  No.  2,  p.  148)  or  the  promenades,  skirting 

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154  RouU22.  MAYENOE.  Praetiedl 

the  Rambach^  we  reach  (1/2  hr.)  Sonnenberg  (Nasmuer  Hof),  a  large 
-village  with  a  new  Roman  Catholic  church  and  a  castle,  which  once 
belonged  to  the  Counts  of  Nassau  and  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1689  (tavern  at  the  top).  The  toWer  (116  steps)  commands  a 
pretty  view.  From  the  ruins  a  road  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  the  (I/4  hr.) 
Bingert  (946  ft. ;  view),  which  is  marked  by  three  trees.  Higher 
up  the  valley  is  the  Stickel^Muhley  a  favourite  garden-restaurant,  a 
little  beyond  which  is  the  charmingly  situated  village  of  Rambaeh 
(770  ft.). 

From  Bambach  we  may  ascend  (1  hr.)  the  *  Kelt  erskopf  ii56S  ft. ;  rfmta. ; 
view-tower,  10  pf.),  which  rises  to  the  K.  The  descent  may  be  made  to 
(s/4  hr.)  Niedernhaus9n  (p.  249). 

22.  Mayence. 

Bailway  Stations.  The  Central  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  F,  1^ 
^Restaurant)  for  the  trains  to  Bingen,  Worms,  Mannheim,  Frankfort  (by 
the  left  bank  of  the  Main),  and  Darmstadt.  Hotel-omnibuses  meet  the 
trains.  —  The  8.  part  of  the  town  is  served  by  the  IfaoTHoa  Station 
(PI.  A,  3),  which  is  connected  with  the  Central  Station  by  a  tunnel  under 
the  citadel,  1300  yds.  long.  —  Passengers  and  luggage  are  conveyed  by 
omnibuses  from  the  Central  Station  to  the  station  at  Gastel  (p.  241),  for  the 
trains  to  Frankfort,  Wiesbaden,  Riidesheim,  Lahnstein.  etc.  The  omnibus- 
fare  (40  pf.)  is  included  in  the  price  of  through-tickets.  There  is  also  a 
tramway  between  the  stations  (25  pf.).    Cabs,  see  p.  155. 

Hotels.  Near  the  Rhine:  'Hotel  db  Hollands  (PI.  c;  D,  5),  Bhein- 
Str.  71,  with  hot-air  heating,  R.  from  3,  B.  IVrlVai  ^'  3V2,  omn.  »/4  Jf; 
HdTEL  DD  Rhin  (PI.  a;  D,  5),  Rhein-Str.  63,  R.  Irom  2%  B.  11/4,  D.  3, 
omn.  8/4  Jf;  Hotel  d'Angleteere  (PI.  b;  D,  5),  Rhein-Str.  89.  R.  from  2V2, 
B.  IV4,  D.  S  Jt;  these  three  are  of  the  first  class,  with  lifts.  —  *Stadt 
CoBLENZ  (PI.  h;  C,  4),  Rhein-Str.  49,  with  good  wine-restaurant,  D.  2^/2 *S; 
Gkrmania  (PI.  g;  C,  4),  Rhein-Str.  43,  R.  IV2  Jf,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  from  IV2  JC. 

—  In  the  Town  (commercial) :  Karpfen  (PI.  k;  C,  4),  Am  Brand;  Landsbero 
(PI.  1;  D,  41,  Lohr-Str.  29,  with  wine-restaurant,  R.  iVa-aVaUT,  B.  80  pf., 
D.  1-1  «/2  Jf;  Hotel  zur  Post  (PI.  m;  C,  4),  Brandgasse  14,  R.  1V2-3, 
B.  8/4  Jt.  —  Near  the  Central  Station:  Central  Hotel  (PI.  d;  F,  2), 
Bahnhofs-Platz  8,  with  restaurant,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V2  Jf;  Bahnhof-Hotel 
(PI.  ej  F,  2),  Bahnhofs-Platz  6,  R.  2-3V2,  B.  1  •^T;  Horn's  Pfalzbr  Hof 
(PI.  n;  E,  2),  Munster-Platz  5,  with  restaurant;  Continental  (PI.  f;  E,  2), 
Bahnhof-Str.  13;  Mainzer  Hof  (PI.  o;  E,  2),  corner  of  Bahnhof-Str.  and 
Parcus-Str.;  Tadnds  Hotel  (PI.  i;  E,  l^j  Bahnhof-Str.  17,  with  good 
restaurant,  R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  lVr2V2  Jt.  —  Hessischer  Hof  (PI.  s;  E,  F,  2), 
Bahnhof-Str.  12 5  Pfeil  (PI.  r;  F,  1^,  Bahnhof-Str.  14;  Weis  (PI.  q;  E,  2), 
Bahnhof-Str.  2;  Binges  Hof  (PL  p;  F,  2),  Kaiser- Wilhelm- Ring  2;  these 
four  ujipretending. 

Restaurants.  Wine.  *(kuino  turn  Gutenberg  ^  GTOsaQBlexoihQ^'^*  Concert' 
haus,  Grosse  Bleiche  56  (p.  167);  Stadthalle  (p.  159),  Rhine  Promenade, 
with  view-terrace,  much  frequented  in  summer;  '^Rathskeller,  Alte  Uni- 
versitats-Str.  11,  behind  the  theatre,  good  M«selle;  Rheingauer  Weinetube, 
Dominikaner-Str.  8;  AUe  Rheingatter  Weinstube,  Seharlwg,  both  in  the 
Triton-Platz  (PI.  D,  3).  —  Beer.  *'Caf^  de  Paris,  see  below,  Woeker,  see 
below;  Stadthalle^  see  above;  *  Rathskeller,  see  above;  ^Heilige  Geist  (p.  160), 
Mailandsgasse,  near  the  Rhein-Str.;  Sehdfferhof,  Schustergasse  20.  plain. 
Beer-rooms  of  the  Rheinische  Brauerei  and  the  AcUenBrauerei  near  the 
Central  Station. 

Caf6s- Restaurants.  Ca/4  de  Paris,  Woeker,  Kaiserhof.  all  three  in  the 
Gutenberg-Platz;  Bassenheimer-Hof  {^.  i%i)  Scbiller^Platz ;  /SftuttAaUe,  see 
above;  caf^  in  the  Neue  Anlage.  see  p.  166;  Deutscher  Kaiser,  Kaiser-Str. 

—  Confectioner.    MUUer,  Gutenberg-Platz  11.  ^  , 

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Notes, 


MAYENOE. 


22.  Boute.  155 


Baths.    ApollO'Bady  Bilhildis-Str.  6  \  several  River  Bath*  in  the  Khine 
(ciuip.  Plan). 

Gahs  (double  fare  from  10p.m.  to  6  a.m.,  in  winter  from  9p.m.  to  6a.m.). 


Per  drive  within  the  gates 
without  - 

Per  hour 

Per  V2  hr 

Each  V*^'*  more 

To  Zahlbach 

To  the  Neue  Aniage  .... 
To  Castel  (pontage  extra)  . 
To  Leniaberg  . 


One-horse  cab      I 

Two-hofse  cab 

1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers. 

1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers. 

—  50 

-70 

-  70 

—  90 

-  80 

1  ur  - 

1  ur~ 

1  ur  20 

2Jt  — 

2ur  80 

2ur  40 

2ur90 

iJ(- 

1  ur  30 

1  urso 

1  JS^60 

-40 

—  50 

-  60 

-  70 

iJt- 

1  U)f'20 

lUif  20 

1  ur4o 

iJt- 

1  urso 

1  Mm 

1  ur  60 

iM- 

1  ur  - 

lUlf  50 

1  ur  50 

4ur- 

4  ur  50 

4ur50 

b  M- 

Each  box  20  pf.;  travell  ng  bag  10  pf;  smaller  articles  free. 

Tramways.  1.  From  the  Bahnhoft-Platz  (PI.  F,  1,  2)  by  the  Schiller- 
Platz  (PI.  C,  4-,  Hofchen)  and  Rhein-Str  to  Cagtel  (p.  241)  ^  2.  From  the  Bahn- 
ho/s-Platz  by  the  Kaiser-Str  ,  Flachs-Markt  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  Hofchen,  Neuthor 
(PI  A,  4).  and  Neue  Aniage  (p.  16'3)  to  Weitenau;  3.  From  the  Bahnhofs- 
Platz  via  the  Kaiser-Str.  and  Rhein-AUee  (PI.  G,  4,  5)  to  ZoHhafen  (Kaiser- 
Karl- Ring).  —  Steam  Tramways  to  Zahlbach- HechUJieim  and  Finthen. 

Steamboats.  1.  Steam-ferries  to  the  station  at  Castel  (p.  2U)  from  the 
JSuerne  Thor  (PI.  C,  5)  and  Irom  the  Kaiser-Thor  (PI.  G,  6),  every  71/2  min. 
(Sun.  every  5  min);  fares  10  or  6  pf.  —  2.  To  BiOrich  (p.  135)  hourly  in 
summer,  starting  near  the  Stadt-Oarten  (PI.  D,  5)  and  calling  at  the  Kaiser- 
Thor;  fare  40  pf.,  return  50  pf.  —  3.  To  Kostheitn. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  in  the  Brand  (PI.  D,  4). 

Theatre  (PI.  D,  3),  in  winter  daily.  —  Music  (in  summer),  on  Sun., 
Wed.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.  afternoons  in  the  Neue  Aniage  (p.  165);  on  Sun., 
Tues.,  and  Thurs.  evenings  in  the  Stadthalle  (p.  159)  5  daily  in  the  Schiller- 
Platz  (p.  164),  12-1.  —  Orchestral  concerts  in  the  concert-room  of  the 
'Liedertafer  (PI.  E,  4). 

The  Carnival  at  Mayence  is  little  inferior  to  the  famous  carnival  at 
Cologne,  which  it  resembles  in  its  general  features  (humorous  plays, 
public  masked  balls,  processions,  confetti  battles,  etc.). 

V,  8.  Consul,  Walter  Schumann^  Esq. 

Chief  Attractions  (one  day).  Cathedral  (p.  160);  the  Rhine  Promenade, 
with  view  from'  the  Rhine  Bridge  (p.  159)  \  Collection  of  Roman  Antiquities 
in  the  Palace  (p.  157);  the  Gutenberg  Monument  (p.  163).  Afternoon:  Neue 
Aniage  and  Railway  Bridge  (p.  165) ;  Harbour. 

Mayence,  German  Mainz  (270  ft.),  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  and  a 
strongly  fortified  town  with  84,600  inhab.  (28,000  Prot. ,  4000  Jews), 
including  a  garrison  of  7600  soldiers,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  RhinCj  opposite  and  below  the  influx  of  the  Afam, 
and  is  connected  with  the  small  town  of  Castel  on  the  opposite 
bank  by  a  bridge  (p.  169).  The  old  streets  of  the  town  are  for  the 
most  part  narrow  and  crooked,  but  ample  space  for  a  'Neustadf,  to 
the  N.,  has  been  afforded  by  the  recent  widening  of  the  line  of 
oircumvallation.  Large  new  harbours  were  built  in  1880-87.  Mayence 
is  one  of  the  headquarters  of  the  trade  in  Rhine  wine  and  manu- 
factures large  quantities  of  sparkling  wine ;  it  is  also  well  known 
for  its  leather  goods  and  artistic  furniture.  Market-gardening  is 
extensively  carried  on  in  the  environs. 

Mayence  is  historically  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  Rhenish 
towns.  Its  important  strategic  situation  has  in  all  ages  attracted  attention. 
The  town  and  its  most  ancient  name  ( Mogontiaeum)  are  of  Celtic  origin. 
Between  B.  0.  12  and  9  Dnuut^  the  son-in-law  of  Augustus,  established  a 
camp  here,  on  the  tableland  outside  the  Gauthor  (p.  165),  and  this  speedily 


156  Route  22.  MAYENCE.  History. 

attracted  a  colony  of  native  residents,  Boman  traders,  and  veterans  (eandlMe). 
Mayence  became  the  seat  of  the  legate,  or  governor,  of  Germania  Superior^ 
and  tiienceforward  served  as  the  base  for  the  Roman  campaigns  in  Central 
Germany.  Domitian.  who  extended  the  Roman  supremacy  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Main  as  rar  as  the  Taunus  and  the  Wetterau  (83-89  A.D.)i  pro- 
bably built  the  bridge  across  the  Rhine  and  constructed  the  Castellum 
MaMaeorum  (the  preseot  Castel)  to  defend  it. 

Authentic  accounts  prove  that  Christianity  flourished  at  Mayence  in 
the  fourth  century  (about  868),  and  the  town  afterwards  became  a  bishop- 
ric. Under  St.  Boniface  (or  Winfried,  d.  755),  the  apostle  of  Central  Ger- 
many, the  see  was  raised  to  an  archbishopric  and  made  the  seat  of  the 
primate  of  Germany.  This  prelate,  the  son  of  an  English  wheelwright, 
was  so  little  ashamed  of  his  parentage  that  he  assumed  a  pair  of 
wheels  as  his  armorial  bearings,  which  are  retained  to  this  day  in 
the  arms  of  the  city.  In  1254  Arnold  Walpod  (d.  1268),  a  citizen  of 
Mayence  and  Uie  chief  of  the  patrician  family  of  the  ^Ldwenhaupter^ 
founded  the  League  of  the  Bhenith  Town*.  Mayence  became  the  centre 
and  leader  of  this  powerful  association,  which  ere  long  was  strengthened 
by  upwards  of  a  hundred  other  towns,  from  Bale  on  the  S.  to  Bremen 
and  Miinster  on  the  X.  Such  was  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the  town 
at  that  period  that  it  was  called  the  ^Goldene  Mainz\  Two  centuries 
later,  however,  it  lost  most  of  its  extensive  privileges  in  consequence 
of  a  violent  attack  made  upon  it  by  Archbishop  Adolph  of  Kassau  in 
1462,  on  which  occasion  500  citizens  were  killed,  and  the  most  influential 
banished.  Thenceforth  the  once  independent  city  was  ruled  by  the  arch- 
bishops. Its  university,  founded  in  1477,  boasted  of  such  distinguished  men 
as  Nicholas  Vogt,  John  von  Miiller,  Bodmann,  and  George  Forster  among 
its  members,  but  it  was  suppressed  by  the  French. 

In  1652  Margrave  Albert  Alcibiades  of  Brandenburg  ravaged  the  town. 
In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  it  was  captured  by  the  Swedes  (1631),  the  Im- 
perialists (1635),  and  the  French  (1644)  The  strong  fortress  fell  once  more 
into  the  hands  of  the  French  in  168S,  but  was  recaptured  in  1689.  On  21st  Oct., 
1792,  the  French  republicans  under  Custine  entered  the  town  almost  without 
a  blow ,  but  it  was  retaken  the  following  year  by  the  Prussians.  In  1797 
it  was  ceded  to  France  by  the  Peace  of  Gampo  Formio,  and  became  the 
capital  of  the  Department  of  Mont  Tonnerre.  In  1803  the  archbishopric 
was  secularised.  In  1816  Mayence  was  assigned  to  the  Grand  Duchy  of 
Hesse  and  in  the  following  year  it  was  made  a  bishopric.  The  Fortresi 
of  Mayence  belonged  to  the  German  Confederation  down  to  1866,  Austria 
and  Prussia  having  the  joint  right  of  providing  the  garrison.  The  demoli- 
tion of  the  inner  fortifications  was  decided  on  in  1902. 

The  Cbnt&al  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  F,  1)  was  built  in  1884 
by  BerdtM  and  ornamented  by  Scholl  and  Barth,  —  The  Kaisbb- 
St&assb,  the  main  street  of  the  new  town,  a  handsome  avenue  abont 
1000  yds.  long  and  over  60  yds.  wide,  embellished  with  trees  and 
flower-beds,  and  flanked  by  handsome  houses,  extends  from  the 
station  to  the  Rhine.  Among  its  buildings  are  the  Offices  of  the 
Hessian  Railway  (PI.  F,  2),  the  Oster-Oymnasium  (PI.  G,  4),  the 
Imperial  Bariky  and  the  ChrUtus-Kirche(P\.F,  G,  4),  built  in  1897- 
1902  by  Kreyssig,  with  its  conspicuous  dome. 

The  Bahthhof-Str,  (PI.  E,  2),  to  the  right  of  the  Kaiser-Strasse, 
leads  to  the  small  MCnstbr-Platz  (PI.  E,  2),  which  occupies  the 
site  of  the  Miinster-Thor.  The  Schiller-Str.,  in  which  is  the  Erthaler 
J3b/'(1735),  now  the  Oovemment  Buildings,  leads  hence  to  the  right 
(S.E.)  to  the  Schiller-Platz  (p.  164J,  while  the  Grosse  Bleiche  runs 
to  the  N.E.  towards  the  Rhine,  in  a  direction  almost  parallel  with 
the  Kaiser-Strasse.  ^  , 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Palaet.  MAYENCE.  22.  i^owtc.   157 

The  Gbossb  Bleiche  (PL  E,  2,  3,  4)  is  the  principal  old  street 
in  the  N,  part  of  the  town.  On  the  N.  side  of  it  (No.  i6)  is  the  toi- 
mer  5ftadion'«c^«  JJo/"  (1728-33).  In  a  small  square  to  the  left  is 
the  Neue  Brunnen^  an  obelisk  with  river-gods  and  lions  below. 

On  the  right,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  street,  where  it  enters  the 
Schloss-Platz,  is  t\i6*Church  ofSt.  Peter  (PI.  E,  4),  erected  in  1756, 
with  bold  vaulting  and  frescoes  by  Appiani.  —  The  barracks, 
formerly  on  the  N.  side  of  the  large  Schloss-Platz  (PI.  F,  4),  have 
been  pulled  down,  and  the  district  is  now  being  remodelled. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  former  Electoral  Palace 
(PI.  F,  4,  6),  a  large  red  sandstone  edifice,  begun  in  1627  and 
hastily  finished  in  1678  on  a  much  less  grand  scale  than  that  orig- 
inally contemplated.  The  wing  facing  the  Schloss-Platz  was  com- 
pleted in  1754;  the  main  facade  fronts  the  Rhine.  The  palace  is 
now  occupied  as  a  museum ;  but  dnring  the  next  few  years,  owing 
to  the  restoration  of  the  building,  only  a  portion  of  the  collections 
will  be  accessible.  The  most  important  section  of  the  museum  is 
that  of  the  Roman  and  Germanic  antiquities ,  on  the  groundfloor. 
On  the  first  floor  are  the  picture-gallery,  the  municipal  library,  and 
part  of  the  Gutenberg  Museum ;  on  the  second  floor,  the  remainder 
of  the  Gutenberg  Museum  and  the  natural  history  collections.  — 
The  Library  i»  open  onMon,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  &Frid.,  9-1,  on  "Wed. 
&  Sat.  9-4  (the  reading-room  from  2  to  5  or  6  also).  The  Outen- 
berg  Museum  (adm.  free)  is  open  on  Sun.,  10-1,  "Wed.  2-4,  and  on 
other  days,  10-4  or  10-6,  on  application  in  the  library.  The  other 
collections  are  open  free  on  Sun.  &  Wed.,  10-1  and  2-5,  and  Mon., 
Thurs.,  and  Frid.,  2-5  (in  winter  Sun.  10-1,  "Wed.  2-4);  at  other 
times  (10  to  4  or  5)  cards  of  admission  (50  pf.)  must  be  obtained. 
Entrance,  Schloss-  Platz  15. 

The  ^Roman  and  Oermanic  Antiquities  chiefly  consist  of  objects 
found  in  or  near  Mayence,  and  the  collection  is  one  of  the  richest 
in  Germany. 

The  Vbstibulb  cbntains  the  original  models  of  Thorvaldten^t  statue  of 
Gutenberg  (p.  163)  and  SeholVs  statue  of  Schiller  (p.  164).  In  the  Ante-Room 
is  a  model  of  the  pile-work  of  the  Roman  bridge  (see  below).  —  To  the 
right  are  Thbbe  Rooms,  with  prehistoric  antiquities  and  smaller  Roman 
and  Germanic  antiquities. 

We  first  enter  the  Pavilion  in  the  court-yard,  containing  the  Romany 
FraniUh^  and  Mediaeval  Inscriptions  and  the  larger  Sculptures  (catalogue  of 
the  Roman  and  mediaeval  inscriptions,  1875,  2  J(;  appendix,  19(X),  8  Jf). 
The  Roman  sculptures  include  reliefs,  capitals,  sarcophagi,  altars,  and 
tombstones  (one  of  a  Roman  soldier  of  the  legions  that  garrisoned  Mayence). 
The  cases  in  the  window-recesses  contain  Roman  vases  and  stamped  bricks. 

—  Among  the  medisBval  sculptures  are  reliefs  and  architectural  fragments. 

—  In  the  court,  outside  the  pavilion,  the  wooden  pile-work  of  a  Roman 
Bridge^  removed  from  the  Rhine  in  18Bi,  has  been  re-erected.  The  bridge 
was  probably  built  in  the  first  century  of  the  present  era,  but  afterwards 
repeatedly  restored. 

We  now  return  to  the  ante-room  and,  passing  the  staircase  to  the  first 
floor,  enter  — 

Room  I,  containing  mediaeval  and  later  objects  (earthenware,  wax  seals, 
weapons,  glass,  etc.).  —  Room  II,  straight  on,  is  the  chief  room.    To  the 


168  BouU22.  MAYENCE.  Muteum. 

left  of  the  entrance  are  Roman,  to  the  right,  Alemannian  and  Frankish 
antiquities.  We  first  inspect  the  Raman  Section.  By  the  first  window : 
Objects  from  the  Roman  civil  cemetery  at  Mayence  (3rd  cent.  A.  D.);  in 
the  window-niche,  skeleton  of  a  woman  with  a  wig,  in  the  original  leaden 
coffin  \  towards  the  middle  of  the  room,  *Goblet  in  perforated  work  (^vas 
diatretum')  and  bottle  with  chased  Bacchic  scenes.  In  the  first  large  case 
by  the  second  window  are  the  contents  of  a  Roman  shoemaker's  workshop, 
with  sandals,  leather,  and  tools,  found  in  1857  in  the  Schiller-Plate.  In 
the  window-niche,  two  bronze  water-spouts  in  the  shape  of  lions^  heads; 
writing  materials ^  stamps;  military  diplomas,  etc.  In  the  second  and 
third  cases  are  ornaments,  rings,  household  utensils,  surgical  instruments, 
weapons,  etc.  By  the  window,  rings,  hair-pins,  and  mirrors.  The  fourth 
case  contains  terracottas,  lamps,  etc.  In  the  last  wiodow-niohe  are  fibnlee, 
etc.  In  the  middle  of  the  room,  under  glass :  funereal  urns  of  legionaries. 
Farther  on,  to  the  right.  Bronze  female  head  (Diana?);  small  Totive 
chariot  with  charioteer,  in  bronze- gilt.  In  the  long  central  case,  tools  and 
weapons,  keys,  locks,  trumpets.  Between  the  pillars  on  the  left  are  bronze 
statuettes,  bronze  vessels,  and  portions  of  armour.  —  The  Frankish  an- 
tiquities occupy  the  right  side  of  the  room.  The  cabinets  contain  an 
extensive  collection  of  weapons,  ornaments,  utensils,  and  glass.  JBy  the 
second  window,  under  ^lass:  gold  rings  or  the  bronze  period;  Roman 
hand-mirror;  medieeval  ivory  carvings  and  ornaments,  including  a  gold 
enamelled  *Fibula\  of  the  11th  century.  —  Room  III.  contains  the 
remainder  of  the  Frankish  and  Alemannian  antiquities.  At  Uie  entrance 
is  the  tomb  of  a  Frankish  woman  (from  Oberolm)  \  in  the  first  central  case, 
a  glass  drinking-horn;  by  the  first  window,  belt- buckles  and  ornaments; 
by  the  second  window,  <3arlovingian  swords  and  lance-heads. 

The  *Roman-Oermanic  Central  Museum^  which  we  next  enter, 
consists  of  four  rooms  containing  reproductions  of  the  most  interest- 
ing pre-Christian  antiquities  of  Germany  and  the  Netherlands,  and 
affords  a  unique  survey  of  the  extant  monuments  of  this  kind.  The 
collection  fills  live  rooms. 

We  now  ascend  the  staircase  (with  Veit's  cartoons  for  the  cath- 
edral paintings,  p.  161)  to  the  Picture  Gallery,  This  is  a  collection 
of  the  second  class  only,  hut  contains  a  few  good  Dutch  and  Flemish 
works  which  will  repay  a  short  visit.    Catalogue  20  pf.  (1900). 

Room  I.  Modem  Works.  1st  Section:  H.  ScJUfnleber,  Dort  Canal. 
2nd  Sec. :  19.  A.  Burger^  Tavern-scene  i  18.  Ad.  Schrej/efy  Arab  horsemen ; 
Ua.  B.  VautieTj  Woman  of  the  Black  Forest;  24.  FlUggen^  Gambler;  27. 
F.  von  Hwsty  Tborvaldsen.  —  Room  n.  Ifetherlandish  Works.  1st  Sec: 
iS.  Laireste^  Baptism  of  St.  Augustine;  53.  Valkenborgh^  Tower  of  Babel. 
2nd  Sec:  66.  Molenaer,  Boors;  68.  Francken  the  Elder,  Triumph  of  David; 
73.  Be  Vo8.  Lady  in  a  poultry-yard.  —  Room  III.  Netherlandish  Works. 
Ist  Sec:  o9.  A.  van  de  Venne^  Judith;  94.  Jan  Steen^  Dancing  lesson; 
95.  Bal,  van  Rupsdael,  Landscape.  2nd  Sec. :  102,  103.  C.  Bega^  Boors ;  100. 
Jan  lAvenSy  Old  man;  107.  Th.  Wpck^  Italian  seaport.  —  Room  IV.  Nether- 
landish Works.  1st  Sec. :  *ld7.  jSf.  van  Rnytdaely  River-scene ;  188.  Molenaer^ 
Tavern-scene;  145.  /.  van  Ooyen,  River-scene.  2nd  Sec:  174.  Teniert  the 
Younger^  Tavern-scene ;  180.  C.  Berehem^  Animals ;  187.  C.  Decker^  Landscape ; 
188.  Neeffe  the  Elder,  Church-interior;  168.  Dirk  Halt,  Lady  tearing  a  letter.  — 
Room  V.  Italian  and  Spanish  Masters.  1st  Sec:  206.  Ouercino,  St.  Francis 
of  Assisi ;  212.  Gnido  Reni,  Rape  of  Europa ;  •217-219.  Eutebio  Ferrari  (school 
of  Vercelli),  Winged  altar-piece  (St.  Jerome  in  a  landscape.  Adoration  of  the 
Infant,  The  young  Tobias;  three  admirable  pictures);  220.  Lor.  di  CVedt(7), 
Madonna.  2nd  Sec. :  225.  Mnrillo  (f)y  Stealing  ducks ;  226.  Tiepolo,  Camp. 
—  Room  YI  (Mayence  Room).  Views  of  the  city ;  portraits  of  governors 
of  Mayence.  Elaborately  ornamented  ceiling  (charming  view  from  the  oriel 
window).  —  EoomVII.  German  Masters  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  348. 
fieekatXf  Joseph's  temptation ;  337,  339.  SehUU^  Landscapes ;  368.  J.  B.  Roos^ 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Esplanade.  MAYENGE.  22.  Route,   159 

Animals  (1678);  879.  Morgensiem^  Church-interior;  386.  R.  Mengt  ^  St.  Ca- 
tharine. By  the  window,  365a.  J.  C.  Schneider j  View  of  the  Taunus  (1789). 
—  Room  VIII.  Flemish  Masters.  *389.  Jae.  Jordaens^  Christ  among  the 
doctors  (1663);  396.  Ph.  de  Champctigne^  Foundation  of  the  Chartreuse,  with 
figures  by  Lt  Sueur (1).  —  Room  IX.  Old  German  School.  414.  H.  Baldung 
Orien,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  429-487.  Matter  of  the  ^Hausbuch'i^)  Life  of 
Mary ;  438.  Early  Copy  of  DUrer,  Adam  and  Eve  (original  at  Madrid).  By 
the  window,  415.  Schdufelin,  Stoning  of  St.  Stephen  (Annunciation  on  the 
back) ;  44L.  Master  of  the  St.  Bartholomew  Altar  (p.  41) ,  SS.  Andrew  and 
Ursula.  —  Room  X,  Modem  Works.  462.  Lindenschmit  the  Younger^  Abp. 
Willigis  challenges  tiie  Schouls.  —  Room  XI.  Modern  Works.  Fh.  Veit,  455. 
Portrait  of  himself,  458.  457.  Studies  of  heads,  456.  Himself  (as  an  old  man); 
464.  Baisch^  Landscape  with  cattle;  483a.  A.  Acltenhach,  Sea-piece.  This 
room  also  contains  an  astronomical  clock  of  the  end  of  the  18th  century.  — 
Room  XII.  French  Masters.  512,  511.  Mignard,  Poetry,  History,  Painting, 
and  the  God  of  Time;  509.  Nattier.,  PrincesiTalmont;  i^.Rigaud^  Cavalier; 
495.  Pesney  Portrait  of  himself.  —  Lastly  come  two  rooms  containing  casts. 
The  first  has  a  fine  rococo  ceiling.  The  other  is  the  Akademie-Sadl^  built 
by  the  last  Elector  Friedrich  Earl  von  Erthal  in  1775,  with  ceiling-painting 
by  Januarius  Ziek  and  portraits  of  the  builder  and  (opposite)  of  Grand-Duke 
Lewis  n.  of  Hesse  (d.  1892),  the  latter  by  E.  von  Heute. 

On  the  second  floor  is  the  Natural  History  Museum^  with  the 
collections  of  the  Rhenish  Natural  History  Society.  The  ornitho- 
logical section  is  extensive. 

The  Municipal  Libfary^  the  Quienberg  Museum^  and  the  Collection 
of  Coins  occupy  the  first  and  second  floors  of  the  W.  wing. 

The  Library  consists  of  about  200,(XX)  vols.,  including  4500  incunabula, 
and  1200MSS.  m>m  the  8th  cent,  onwards.  The  reading-room  contains  por- 
traits of  nineteen  electors. 

The  Gutenberg  Museum.^  founded  in  1901,  is  connected  with  the  library. 
The  anteroom  contains  documents  relating  to  Gutenberg,  writings  referring 
to  the  invention  of  printing,  and  memorials  of  the  Gutenberg  festivals  of 
1837,  1840,  and  1900.  —  On  the  staircase  are  SuUer^s  designs  for  the  pro- 
cession of  1900;  also  a  model  of  ancient  Mayence,  by  If.  OSbel.  —  Two 
rooms  on  the  second  floor  contain  an  exhibition  illustrating  the  history 
and  development  of  printing,  book-illustration,  etc.  In  the  cases  by  the 
windows  are  specimens  of  early  printing  by  Gutenberg,  Fust,  and  Schofier, 
and  a  selection  of  the  most  important  works  to  the  present  day. 

The  Coins  (12,000  specimens)  include  a  full  set  of  those  of  Mayence, 
from  the  time  of  Charlemagne  down  to  the  overthrow  of  the  electoral  sway. 

Opposite  the  Electoral  Palace ,  to  the  S. ,  is  the  Palace  of  the 
6rand'Duke(P\.  E,  5),  formerly  a  Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Orders  built 
in  1731-39  in  the  baroque  style ;  and  connected  with  it  is  the  Ar- 
senalj  which  was  erected  by  Elector  Philip  Charles  in  1738-40. 

A  handsome  ♦Esplanade  (PI.  A-G,  5),  21/2  M.  long,  100  yds. 
broad,  and  planted  with  trees,  has  been  constructed  along  the  Rhine, 
beginning  on  the  S.  at  the  railway-bridge  mentioned  at  p.  166;  it 
extends  on  the  N.  past  the  extensive  new  harbour  to  the  Ingelheimer 
Au  (p.  136).  —  Opposite  the  arsenal,  at  the  spot  where  the  old 
Roman  bridge  once  stood  (p.  156),  the  Rhine  is  spanned  by  an  iron 
•Bridge  (PI.  E,  5;  toll  4  pf.),  erected  in  1881-85  from  designs  by 
Thiersch.  Of  the  five  arches  the  central  one  has  a  clear  span  of 
334  ft.,  and  the  others  of  321  ft.  and  282  ft.  The  bridge  commands 
a  fine  panorama.    Castel,  see  p.  241. 

The  Stadthalle  (PI.  D,  5)  is  a  modem  building  in  the  Renaissance 

.^dbyGoOg 


160  Route  2^,  MAYENCE.  Cathedral, 

style,  with  a  large  hall,  used  for  halls,  concerts,  and  puhllc  meet- 
ings. Gaf ^-Restaurant,  see  p,  154;  view  of  the  Rhine  from  the 
terrace.  Near  it,  Rhein-Strasse  59,  is  the  so-called  Iron  Tower 
(*Eiserne  Thurm*),  and  farther  up  the  river  is  the  so-called  Wooderk 
TotMr('Holzthurm';  PL  B,  4),  two  fragments  of  the  old  fortifications, 
dating  respectively  from  the  13th  and  the  16th  century.  —  In  the 
Mailandsgasse,  near  the  Iron  Tower,  is  the  old  Church  of  the  Holy 
Ohost  (13th  cent.),  now  a  restaurant  (p.  164). 

The  centre  of  the  old  town  of  Mayence  is  occupied  hy  the 
market-place,  in  which  are  a  fountain  erected  in  152d  by  Elector 
Albert  of  Brandenburg  (restored),  and  the  imposing  — • 

^Cathedral  (PI.  C,  4 ;  8t.  Martin's).  A  cathedral  is  mentioned  as 
having  existed  at  Mayence  as  early  as  406,  and  a  new  building, 
with  a  baptistery,  was  erected  by  Bishop  Sidonius  in  the  6th  century. 
A  Romanesque  church  was  built  under  Archbishop  Willigis  (975- 
1011),  but  it  was  burned  down  on  the  very  eve  of  its  consecration 
in  1009.  It  was  restored  by  Ahp.  Bardo  in  1036,  but  was  again  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1081.  On  its  re-ereotion  the  building  received  a 
vaulted  roof  (see  p.  xxviii).  In  1169  the  church  served  as  a  fortress 
during  the  struggle  between  Abp.  Arnold  and  the  citizens.  The 
upper  part  was  yet  again  destroyed  by  fire  in  1191.  Between  that 
date  and  1243  were  erected  the  W.  transept,  the  main  choir,  the 
octagonal  dome,  the  Memorie  or  chapter-house  (p.  162),  and  the 
cloisters.  Gothic  side-chapels  were  added  after  the  close  of  the 
13th  cent.,  and  the  cloisters  were  wholly  remodelled  in  1397-1405. 
The  wooden  spire  of  the  main  W.  tower  was  burned  in  1767,  and 
was  replaced  in  1774  by  a  stone  steeple  in  the  Gothic  style,  by 
J.  F.  Neumann  the  Younger  of  Wiirzburg  (p.  296).  In  the  French 
period  the  church  was  used  as  a  magazine  and  barracks,  but  in 
1814  it  was  repaired  and  restored  to  its  sacred  uses.  A  thorough 
restoration  of  the  E.  part  of  the  building  was  carried  out  in  1868-79, 
under  the  superintendence  of  Laske,  Wessiken^  and  Cuypers,  The 
middle  tower  was  rebuilt  in  the  Romanesque  style  in  1875,  while 
the  crypt  under  the  E.  choir  and  the  two  side-towers  were  renewed 
in  harmony  with  the  extant  remains. 

In  consequence  of  all  these  vicissitudes  the  church  possesses 
great  value  in  the  history  of  architecture.  In  its  present  form  it 
consist'  of  nave  and  aisles  with  chapels,  an  E.  and  a  W.  choir,  and 
a  W.  transept.  The  groups  of  towers  at  the  E.  and  W.,  especially  the 
picturesque  W.  tower  (270  ft.)  above  the  cross,  present  an  imposing 
appearance,  somewhat  injured ,  however,  by  the  numerous  addi- 
tions. The  lower  portions  of  the  E.  round  towers  probably  belong 
to  the  building  of  Willigis  or  Bardo.  The  transept,  with  its  three 
huge  windows,  the  W.  choir  (above  which  is  an  equestrian  statue 
of  St.  Martin),  and  the  three  W.  apses  with  their  rich  decoration 
of  round-arched  frieze  and  dwarf-galleries,  show  the  flamboyant 
forms  of  the  Transition  period.  All  the  additions,  except  the  Mem- 


Cathedral.  MAYENCE.  22.  Route    161 

orie,  are  Gothic  in  style.  The  decoration  of  the  interior  shows 
the  mark  of  each  century  in  turn.  —  Oomp.  the  ground-plan,  p.  155. 

The  Main  Entbance,  which  is  reached  between  some  of  the 
houses  in  the  market-place,  is  in  the  N.  aisle.  The  two  brazen  doors 
were  executed  by  order  of  Archbp.  Willigis  in  988,  as  the  Latin 
inscription  on  the  border  of  the  wings  records ,  and  are  the  oldest 
in  Germany  after  those  of  Aix-la-Chapelle.  On  the  upper  panels 
are  inscriptions,  engraved  in  1135,  enumerating  the  privileges 
granted  to  the  town  by  Archbishop  Adalbert  I.,  out  of  gratitude  for 
his  liberation  from  the  hands  of  Henry  V.  in  1163.  —  There  are 
other  entrances  in  the  E.  facade  in  the  Liebfrauen  -  Platz ,  with 
interesting  capitals  at  the  S.  portal,  and  in  the  S.  transept,  opening 
from  the  Leich-Hof.  The  cathedral  is  open  daily,  8-9  and  9.30- 
12  a.m.,  and  2-6  p.m.  The  verger,  who  lives  in  the  Leich-Hof, 
shows  the  Memorie,  cloisters,  crypt,  and  St.  Gothard's  Chapel,  at 
other  times  also  on  application  (fee  1/2"^  •^)* 

The  *Intbbiob,  the  vaulting  of  which  is  borne  by  56  pillars,  is 
122  yds.  long,  50  yds.  broad,  and  89  ft.  high  in  the  nave.  The 
slender  pillars  are  separated  by  very  narrow  openings,  and  each 
alternate  one  is  provided  with  a  ressaut  from  which  the  vaulting 
springs.  The  W.  choir,  nave,  and  aisles  have  been  painted  dark 
blue  and  richly  decorated,  the  dome  of  the  W.  choir  and  the  nave 
being  adorned  with  paintings.  The  subjects  of  the  latter  are  (in  the 
dome)  scenes  from  Old  Testament  history  referring  to  the  sacrifice 
of  Christ,  and  (in  the  nave)  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ.  Design- 
ed by  Ph.  Veit,  they  have  been  executed  by  Herrinann^  Lasinsky, 
and  Settegast.  The  E.  choir  retains  the  red  coating  applied  to  it  in  the 
18th  century.  In  other  parts  the  red  sandstone  and  the  grey  lime- 
stone have  been  restored  to  light  by  the  removal  of  the  whitewash. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  interior  consists  in  the 
numerous  ♦Tombstones  it  contains,  ranging  from  the  13th  to  the 
19th  cent.  (comp.  p.  xxxi).  We  begin  to  the  right  of  the  principal 
entrance. 

N.  Tbansbpt.  Monaments  of  the  Von  Oablentz  family  (1593)  and  of 
Dean  von  Bretdenbach  (d.  1497).  The  font  dates  from  1328,  the  altar  from 
1601.  The  handsome  Portal  of  the  St.  Gothard  Chapel  (p.  163) ,  in  the 
transition-style,  formerly  belonged  to  the  Holy  Ghost  Church  (p.  160). 

N.  AisLB.  By  the  Ist  pillar,  ^Renaissance  Monument  of  Albert  0/ 
Brandenburg,  Elector  of  Mayence  and  Archbishop  of  Magdeburg  (the  statue, 
of  Kelheim  stone,  admirably  executed),  1545;  adjacent  is  his  tombstone, 
by  the  same  pillar.  By  the  second  pillar,  "^l^onument  of  Elector  Sebaetian 
von  Heueenstamm  (d.  1555).  Opposite  the  5th  pillar,  in  the  chapel  of  the 
Virgin,  which  was  restored  in  the  Gothic  style  and  embellished  with 
painting  and  stained  glass  in  honour  of  Bishop  Ketteler's  episcopal  jubilee 
in  1875,  is  the  monument  of  that  prelate  (d.  1877).  —  In  the  adjoining 
St.  Magnus  Chapel  are  an  Entombment  in  stone  and  numerous  reliefs  in 
marble.  The  Raising  of  Lazarus,  by  the  pillar,  is  a  masterpiece  of  late 
mediseval  wood-carving  (15th  cent.).  By  the  8th  pillar  on  the  E.  is  a 
monument  erected  by  Bishop  Gerlach  to  St.  Boniface  in  1357,  on  the  site 
of  one  still  older  5  till  1829  it  was  in  the  church  of  St.  John  (colouring 
renewed).  By  the  9th  pillar,  *  Monument  of  Elector  Conrad  III.  of  Daun 
(d.  1434),  Gothic.   —    The  Chapel  of  St.  Barbara  contains  an  early-Goth  i 

Baedkker^s  Rhine.  15th  Edit.  11*        _ 


162    Route  22,  MAYENCE.  Cathedral. 

winged  altar-piece;  the  Chapel  of  St.  Victor  has  a  baroque  altar,  dating 
from  1622. 

A  flight  of  19  steps  ascends  hence  to  the  Pfabbghob,  or  E.  Chois,  the 
floor  of  which  has  been  raised  about  8  ft.  by  the  restoration  of  the  crypt. 
It  contains  a  canopy  and  altar  in  memory  of  Bishop  Eetteler  (see  p.  161). 
To  the  right  in  the  — 

Navk,  by  the  10th  pillar.  Elector  Peter  von  Atpelt^  or  Aichspalt  (d.  1320), 
leaning  with  his  right  hana  on  Henry  VII.  and  with  his  left  on  Lewis 
the  Bavarian,  the  two  emperors  crowned  by  him*,  adjoining  him,  King 
John  of  Bohemia,  also  crowned  by  him  (Gothic  \  colouring  restored  in  1834). 
Several  other  monuments  of  archbishops  and  electors.  By  the  6th  pillar 
on  the  N.  side,  ^Slector  Diether  von  Itenburg^  1482.  Opposite  is  the  Fulj^it^ 
executed  in  stone  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  a  modern  covering 
in  wood.  By  the  4th  pillar  on  the  N.  side,  *  Albert  of  Saxony^  administrator 
of  the  archbishopric,  1484,  with  a  simple  and  noble  figure  of  the  youthful 
prince.  Opposite  (S.  side),  *  Elector  Berthold  von  ffenneberg,  1504,  probably 
by  Tilman  Riemenschneider,  one  of  the  finest  late-Oothic  monuments  in 
the  cathedral.  By  the  2nd  piUar  on  the  S.,  *  Elector  Jacob  von  Liebenttein, 
1508,  late-Gothic. 

S.  AisLB.  The  Chapel  of  All  Saints  (1317)  contains  an  altar  in  the 
Benaissance  style,  presented  in  1604  by  Phil.  Cratz  von  Scharfenstein,  after- 
wards Bishop  of  Worms.  In  the  Chapel  of  St.  John  are  a  Benaissance 
altar  presented  by  Canon  Fried,  von  Fiirstenberg  (d.  1607),  and  a  winged 
altar-piece  in  carved  work  on  a  gold  ground  representing  the  Twelve 
Apostles  and  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  1517.  The  adjoining  Chapel 
of  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Michael's  Chapel  have  some  fine  stained  glass 
(modem),  and  an  altar  of  1662  in  the  Benaissance  style.  —  To  the  left  of 
the  handsome  entrance-portal  (14th  cent.)  to  the  ^Memorie'  and  cloisters 
(see  below)  is  a  Slab  (16th  cent. ;  built  into  the  wall)  bearing  an  inscription 
to  the  memory  of  Fattrada  (or  Fastradana),  the  third  wife  of  Charlemagne ; 
she  died  at  Frankfort  in  794,  and  was  buried  there  in  the  church  of 
St.  Alban,  destroyed  in  1552. 

The  S.  Tbansbpt  contains  several  monuments  to  prelates  of  the  18th 
century.  A  fine  head  of  Saturn  on  the  monument  of  Canon  von  Breidenbach- 
BUrresheim  U'74d),  and  the  noble  Gothic  monument  of  Archbp.  Conrad  II. 
von  Weinsberffj  1396,  adjoining  the  W.  choir,  are  noteworthy.  Over  the 
door  opening  on  the  Leich-Hof  (p.  161)  is  a  Romanesque  relief. 

The  BisoHOFSGHOB,  or  W.  Ohoib,  separated  from  the  transepts  by 
galleries  of  1682,  contains  rococo  *Choir  Stalls,  erected  in  1767.  In  the 
dome  are  the  paintings  already  mentioned  (p.  161). 

From  the  S.  aisle  the  portal  above  noticed  (to  the  right,  the  old 
Romanesque  portal)  leads  into  the  Memorie,  erected  in  1243,  and  roofed 
with  wide  groined  vaulting.  This  was  the  old  chapter-house,  and  owes 
its  name  to  the  memorial  services  held  in  it  annually.  By  the  W.  wall 
(r.)  is  the  episcopal  throne  in  stone.  Adjacent  are  several  monuments  of 
the  years  1536,  1550,  and  1558.  —  The  Gothic  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholat^  to  the 
S.  of  the  Memorie,  dates  from  the  14th  century. 

The  Gloistert  also  contain  several  monuments.  On  the  S.  wall  is 
Schwanthaler^s  Monument  to  Frauenlob^  a  female  figure  decorating  a  coffin 
with  a  wreath,  erected  by  the  ladies  of  Mayence  in  1842  to  Count  Heinrich 
von  Meissen  (d.  1318),  surnamed  Frauenlob  (women^s  praise),  *the  pious 
minstrel  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  and  of  female  virtue'.  Beyond  it,  on  the  E. 
wall,  is  a  Gothic  relief,  with  groups  of  saved  and  lost  souls.  Kear  it  is 
an  older  tombstone  of  Frauenlob ,  erected  in  1783,  a  copy  of  the  original 
of  1318.  By  the  buttresses  on  the  garden-side  are  seated  figures  of  the 
Apostles  (late-Romanesque).  The  cloisters,  which  afford  a  good  view  of 
the  church-towers,  also  contain  sculptured  fragments  from  other  churches 
of  Mayence,  some  of  great  beauty  and  interest. 

A  gloomy  chamber  to  the  S.  of  the  cloisters  contains  fine  Renaisaaace 
*Choir  Stalls  and  tapestry  of  the  14-17th  centuries. 

Between  the  N.  transept  of  the  cathedral  and  the  Markt,  partly 
concealed  from  view  by  surrounding  buildings ,  ia^the  Chapel  of 

-Bd  by  VjOOQ 


statue  of  Qutenberg.        MAYENCE.  22.  Route.  163 

St.  Oothardy  a  double  chnrch  with  aisles,  a  characteristic  Roman- 
esque building,  erected  in  1135-8.  It  originally  formed  the  chapel 
of  the  archiepiscopal  palace  (entrance  from  the  N.  transept,  p.  161). 
The  dwarf- gallery  on  the  exterior  (oomp.  p.  68)  and  the  pillars 
and  columns  within  deserve  notice. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Leich-Hof  (p.  161)  is  the  Prot.  Church 
of  8t,  John  (PI.  C,  3),  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  baptistery. 
—  Hard  by,  in  the  Augustiner-Str.,  is  the  Liebfrauen- Kirche  (PI.  B, 
C,  4),  of  1768-76,  with  rococo  decoration  and  ceiling-paintings  by 
Januarins  Zick. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  the  Gutbnbbbg-Platz  (PI.  0,  D,  3), 
which  is  embellished  with  a  "'"Statue  of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of 
printing,  designed  by  Thorvaldsenj  executed  at  Paris,  and  erected 
in  1837.  At  the  sides  of  the  pedestal  are  two  reliefs.  The  inscrip- 
tion at  the  back  by  Ottfried  Miiller  runs  thus :  — 
Artem  quae  Oi'aecot  latuit,  latitiique  Latinos, 

Oermani  solUrs  extudit  ingentum. 
Nunc,  quidquid  veteres  sapiunt  sapiuntque  reeentes, 
Non  sibi,  ted  populU  omnibus  id  sapiunt. 

Owing  to  the  obscurity  which  enyelopes  the  inventor  of  printing,  and 
to  the  fact  that  he  had  several  contemporaries  of  the  same  name  as  himself, 
there  is  some  difficnlty  in  identifying  him.  Native  and  foreign  writers, 
however,  of  the  15th  cent,  agree  in  naming  as  the  inventor  Johann  G-ans- 
FLBiscH,  surnamed  Gutbnbeko  from  his  mother''s  name,  who  was  born  in 
Hayence  about  the  end  of  the  i4th  cent.,  at  the  Hof  Qutenberg,  Ohristoph- 
Strasse  2  (PL  D,  4),  and  not,  in  spite  of  the  tablet,  at  the  Hof  zum  Oansfleisch, 
Emmeran-Strasse  23  (PI.  D,  3).  After  a  stay  in  Strassburg,  Gutenberg 
seems  to  have  established  himself  in  his  native  city  in  1444.  The  earliest 
book  printed  by  him  from  moveable  types  to  which  a  certain  date  can  be 
assigned  belongs  to  the  year  1447  (p.  151),  though  the  27-line  fragment  of 
Donatus,  now  in  the  Bibliotheque  Nationale  at  Paris,  is  doubtless  earlier. 
His  first  work  of  importance  was  the  famous  42-line  Bible  (1450-1456?). 
Johann  Fust^  who  had  assisted  Gutenberg  in  this  work,  afterwards  separated 
from  him,  and  established  a  new  printing-office  in  partnership  with  Peter 
SiMffer.  Gutenberg's  subsequent  career;  his  connection  with  the  36-line 
Bible,  the  types  of  which  were  in  the  hands  of  Albrecht  Pflster  of  Bam- 
berg from  14ol  onwards :  and  the  question  whether  Gutenberg  printed  the 
Mayence  Gatholicon  (1460),  the  earliest  long  work  in  Italic  characters, 
are  all  points  still  veiled  in  obscurity.  After  a  residence  in  Eltville  (p.  134), 
the  date  and  duration  of  which  are  uncertain,  Gutenbex^;  died  in  Mayence 
in  1467  or  1468,  and  was  buried  in  the  Franciscan  church,  which  was 
pulled  down  in  1742.  —  Gutenberg's  alleged  first  printing-office,  at  the  If  of 
turn  Jungen^  Franziskanergasse  3,  and  those  of  Johann  Fust  and  Peter 
Schoffer  at  the  Ho/  zum  Humbrecht,  Schuster-Strasse  20,  and  the  Bch&ffer- 
Sof,  Korbgasse  3,  are  all  indicated  by  memorial  tablets. 

Opposite  the  monument  is  the  Theatre^  erected  in  1833.  —  In  the 
Schuster-Strasse,  one  of  the  chief  business-streets,  which  runs  off 
the  old  market-place,  is  the  Gothic  Church  of  8t.  Quentin  (PL  D,  4 ; 
16th  cent.),  and  near  it  the  Church  of  St.  Christopher,  in  the  early- 
Gothic  style.  Between  them  is  the  large  Pensioners'  Hospital  and 
opposite  is  the  KneheVsche  Ho/" (No.  2),  with  a  rich  oriel  in  the 
Renaissance  style.  —  From  the  Schuster-Str.  the  Stadionerhof-Str. 
leads  to  the  W.  to  the  Dalherger  Hof  (1715-18),  now  occupied  by  law- 
courts  (PI.  D,  E,  3,  4),  and  to  the  Church  ofSt.Emmeran  (Pl.D,  3), 

libogle 


164  JBottte  22.  MAYENCE.  CUadel. 

a  tasteful  late-GotMc  building,  erected  in  1450  and  restored  in  1881 
(old  ceiling-paintings). 

Following  the  broad  Ludwigs-Strasse  from  the  theatre  towards 
the  W.,  we  reach  the  Sohillbb-Platz  (PI.  D,  2,  3;  music,  see 
p.  156),  which  is  planted  with  chestnut-trees  and  embellished  with 
a  bronze  Statue  ofSehUler,  by  SchoU  (1862).  The  place  is  bounded 
on  the  S.  by  the  Oiteinef  Hof  (1747),  now  the  residence  of  the 
Military  Governor  and  of  the  Commandant,  and  on  the  W.  by  the 
Baasenheimer  flo/^(1756),  the  Barracks,  and  the  Military  Catino  or 
Schonhorrher  Hof, 

The  broad  Emmerich-Joseph-Strasse  leads  hence  to  the  W.  to  a 
flight  of  76  steps  ascending  to  the  Mathilderh-Terrasse  (PI.  D,  2), 
which  affords  an  extensive  view  of  the  town  and  environs.  Below  the 
terrace  is  the  wine-magazine  of  Eupferberg  &  Co.,  with  a  house  in- 
dicated by  a  tablet  as  that  occupied  by  Bismarck  from  Aug.  2nd 
to  Aug.  7th,  1870,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Franco-Prussian  war. 
On  thQ  KdstrichfCastrum)  a  new  and  well-built  quarter  of  the  town  has 
sprung  up  since  the  explosion  of  a  powder-magazine  here  in  1857. 

On  an  eminence  in  the  neighbourhood  rises  the  handsome  early- 
Gothic  ♦Church  of  St.  Stephen  (PI.  C,  2),  erected  in  1257-1328  on 
the  highest  site  in  the  town  (98  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  Rhine), 
and  tastefully  restored  after  1857.  It  consists  of  nave  and  aisles 
of  equal  height,  with  a  choir  at  each  end,  a  peculiarity  rarely  seen 
in  Rhenish  churches.  The  octagonal  Toioer,  170  ft.  high,  com- 
mands a  beautiful  view  (220  steps ;  visitors  ring  near  the  flying 
buttress  to  the  right  of  the  N.  door  of  the  tower). 

The  Int£biob  contains  altar-pieces  by  Veit  over  the  side-altars  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  W.  choir  \  behind  the  high-altar  are  a  late-Gothic  taber- 
nacle of  1500  and  four  exquisite  brass  altar-columns  of  1509.  —  The  treasury 
contains  several  interesting  Oriental  and  early-Romanesque  objects,  the 
dalmatic  of  St.  Willigis,  etc.  —  The  late-Gothic  Cloisters,  dating  from  1499, 
entered  from  the  right  aisle,  are  remarkable  for  their  tasteful  vaulting  and 
windows  5  by  the  E.  wall  is  the  tombstone  of  Dean  Wignandus  (d.  1048). 

The  Stephan-Str.  leads  from  the  church  to  the  S.E.  to  the 
'Eisgrubweg',  where  the  Windmuhlenberg  (PI.  B,  3),  an  eminence 
planted  with  lime-trees,  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the 
cathedral,  between  the  houses.  —  Beyond  the  Alarm-Bastion  is  the 
entrance  to  the  citadel. 

The  Citadel  (PI.  A,  3 ;  adm.  by  cards,  obtainable  at  the  office 
of  the  Commandant,  see  above;  50  pf.),  which  occupies  the  site  of 
the  Roman  castrum,  dates  from  the  17th  century.  In  its  S.W.  cor- 
ner rises  the  Drusus-Thurm  or  Eigelstein,  a  dark-grey,  circular  mass 
of  concrete,  40  ft.  in  height,  said  by  tradition  to  have  been  erected  in 
the  year  B.C.  9  by  the  2nd  and  14th  Legions  in  honour  of  Drusus 
(p.  155),  who  was  killed  by  a  fall  from  his  horse.  The  monument  was 
once  much  higher  than  at  present,  but  there  is  no  evidence  that  it 
ever  had  an  outer  casing  of  masonry.  In  1698  it  was  furnished  with 
a  spiral  staircase  in  the  interior. 


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Roman  Aqmduct  MAYENCE.  22.  Route.    165 

The  *Nene  Anlage  (restaurant ;  music,  p.  154),  or  public  prom- 
enade, on  a  slight  eminence  outside  the  Neuihor  (JPl.  A,  4 ;  tram- 
way), on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  occupies  the  site  of  the  electoral 
chateau  of  Favorite  (removed  in  1793).  —  The  Bailway  Bridge, 
built  in  1862,  which  here  crosses  the  Rhine  near  its  junction  with 
the  Main,  consists  of  four  arches,  each  about  137  yds.  in  span.  It 
commands  an  admirable  view  up  and  down  stream. 

The  Wall-Strasse  (PI.  E,  F,  G,  1)  begins  behind  the  Central 
Station,  beyond  the  viaduct  which  carries  the  Binger-Str.  over 
the  railway,  and  ascends  past  the  Qonsenheimer-Thor,  a  military 
stores  factory,  and  the  Cavalry  Barracks  (distinguished  by  a  gilded 
horse  from  the  former  electoral  stables)  to  the  Mombaeher  -  Thor; 
it  commands  a  striking  view  of  Wiesbaden,  the  Tannns,  and  the 
Rheingau.  The  Gonsenheimer-Thor  is  about  V2  M.  from  the  Cen- 
tral Station,  visl  the  'Gonsenheimer  Hohle'. 

By  proceeding  to  the  W.  from  the  Binger-Thor  (Bl.  E,  1),  alongside 
the  Hechtsheim  railway  (p.  156),  we  soon  reach  the  Cemetery,  which  was 
once  the  barial-ground  of  the  Roman  legions  and  of  the  earliest  Christian 
church  (St.  Anrens).  It  deserves  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  its  situation  and 
its  beautiful  roses.  —  About  1/2  ^-  farther  on,  on  a  hill  to  the  right  of  the 
village  of  ZahVMch^  are  the  remains  of  another  interesting  Boman  structure, 
an  *Aqaeduct,  of  which  60  concrete  piUars,  flome  of  them  23  ft.  high,  are 
still  standing.  By  this  channel  a  supply  of  water  for  the  use  of  the  Roman 
castle  was  conducted  from  the  Eonigsbom  (see  below),  a  distance  of  about 
6  M.    We  may  return  to  Mayence  in  20  min.  via  the  Gau-Thor  (PI.  C,  2). 

The  steam-tramway  to  Finthen  (p.  155)  diverges  to  the  right  from  the 
Zahlbach  road  near  the  cemetery,  traverses  the  market-gardens  of  Oonsen- 
heim  (p.  285),  passes  the  villa-colony  of  Lenidberg,  and  then  ascends  to 
Finthen  (Fontanae)^  on  the  road  to  Bingen,  5  M.  from  Mayence.  —  From 
Finthen  we  proceed  to  the  N.  via  (V4  M.)  Kdnigsbam  (inn),  with  the  spring 
that  furnished  the  main  supply  of  the  Roman  aqueduct  (see  above),  to  the 
(I1/2  M.)  Fortihaut  LttdwigthOhe  (restaurant  &  pension)  on  the  Leniaberg,  with 
view-tower,  and  to  (3  M.)  Bttdenfieim  (p.  140).  A  pleasanter  route  is  offered  by 
the  direct  wood-path  from  station  Leniaberg  to  00  min.)  the  Ludwigshohe. 

23.  From  BingerbriicK  to  Kreuznach,  Saarbrucken, 
and  Metz. 

Comp.  Maps^pp.  128^  Iff 8^  and  176. 

137  M.  Railwat  to  (9V2  M.)  Kreuznach  in  V4-V«  hr.  (fares  1  U>  20,  90, 
60  pf.);  to  (88  M.)  Saarbrilcken  in  S-SVa  hrs.  (fares  11  U>  40,  8  U>  60,  5  U> 
70  pf.);  to  Mett  in  41/2-6  hrs.  (fares  18  U^  90,  12  U^  90,  8  U^  60  pf.). 

The  line  begins  at  Bingerbruck  (pp.130, 139),  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Nahe^  skirts  the  S.  slopes  of  the  Hunsruck,  and  traverses  the  pretty 
valley  of  the  Nahe ,  with  its  vineyards  and  cornfields,  via  Munster^ 
Sarmsheimy  and  (3^/2  M.)  Laubenheim.  —  From  (5  M.)  Langen- 
lonsheim  (Berliner  Hof)  a  branch-line  runs  to  Kirchberg  (35  M.,  in 
21/3  hrs.;  fares  3  UJT 40,  2  Uif  30,  1  uif  20  pf.)  via  Stromberg  (Post; 
Weinzheimer),  Rhembollerh  (Hochwald  Hotel),  and  Simmem  (Voll- 
rath ;  Lamm ;  Post).  —  7  M.  Bretzenheim. 

9^/2 M.  Kreuznaoh.  —  There  are  two  stations:  1.  Stadt  Kreuznach^ 
Va  M.  from  the  town,  and  IV4  M.  from  the  Curhaus ;  2.  Bad  Kreuznach^  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  island  on  which  the  baths  are  situated.  Hotel-omni- 
buses and  cabs  (p.  166)  await  the  arrival  of  the  trains.  ^ 


166   Route  23. 


KREUZNAOH.  From  Bingerbruck 


Hotels.  In  the  town,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Hahe:  Adlbb,  Hoch-Str., 
with  garden,  B.  Qi/z^  B.  1,  D.  Q'/s?  pens.  6  .J;  ^Pfalzbb  Hof,  next  the  post- 
office  \  Taubb  ,  with  a  popular  wine-room ,  Dbutschbs  Haus,  in  the  Holz- 
markt,  both  unpretending  but  well  spoken  of.  —  On  the  right  bank  of  the 
Nahe:  Bahhhof-H6tel,  in  Bad  Kreuznach  (p.  167),  very  fair.  E.  IJA-aV*, 
pens.[6.<#,  with  garden-restaurant;  Bbblikeb  Hof,  Bismarck-Platz ;  Huff's 
Goldbnbb  Hibsch,  at  the  comer  of  the  Hannheimer-Str.  and  Salinen-Str., 
these  three  second-class.  —  Bath-houses  and  hotels  in  and  near  the  Bade-Insel, 
for  patients,  some  of  them  closed  in  winter:  *Enoli8Cheb  Hof  and  HdTBL 
BoTAL,  with  lift,  R.  2-16,  B.  i%  D.  SVt,  pens,  from  8  Jt;  •Obahibnhof,  with 
lift,  private  spring,  and  park,  B.  2V2-10,  B.  IV4,  D.  8,  pens,  from  6  J^;  Kaczbn- 
BBBOi  Dhbil- Schmidt;  Eubopaisohbb  Hof,  B.  3^,  B.  1V4«  D*  8,  pens. 
^^/tJf;  Gband-H6tel  du  Nobd,  opposite  the  Elisabeth-Quelle ;  Db.  Hbb- 
MANN'S  Pbivatb  Baths,  B.  1-6,  board  4Vt  Jt.  —  Numerous  lodging-houses 
and  pensions,  nearly  all  with  baths;  highest  charges  from  l&th  June  to 
16th  August. 

Kestaurants.  At  the  hotels;  Heilquelle^  near  the  small  Bade-Briicke ; 
Pari  Restaur anty  Bellevvej  near  the  Gnrhans  bridge;  KaUeraUy  above  the 
island,  at  the  foot  of  the  Eauzenberg  (p.  167),  with  garden. 

Oabs.  Drive  in  the  town,  1-2  pers.,  with  one  horse  80  pf.,  with  2 
horses  1  .J  ;  3-4  pers.  1  .J  20  and  1  Ul^  50  pf. ;  per  hour,  in  the  town  2  or  3  .J, 
outside  the  town  2Vt  or  8Vt  •<#;  to  the  Theodorshalle  1V2  and  2,  or  2  and 
2V2  Ji'    Carriages  to  the  following  places  and  back,  with  2  hrs.  stay:  — 


Bheingrafen- 
stein 

Bheingrafen- 
stein  via  Mun- 
ster 

Bheingrafen- 
stein,Hiinster, 
and  the  Ebern- 
burg 


l-horse 

2-hor8e 

U^pf. 

U^pf. 

7.50 

9- 

9- 

12- 

10- 

13.50 

Hiinster.   .  .   . 
Miinster  (with- 
out returning) 
Ebemburg, 
Altenbaumburg, 
or  Eremitage 
Bothenfels 
Disibodenberg 
Sponheim 


l-horse 

U^pf. 

4  — 

2  ^ 


6  — 
9  - 
10  — 
7.50 


2-horse 

U^pf. 
6  — 

8- 


12  — 
16  — 
10.60 


Omnibus  to  Milnster  am  Stein  every  Vs  I^'m  30  pf. 

Steam  Tramwavs  (starting  from  the  Holzmarkt)  to  Wallhatuen  and 
WintBvhvrg^  see  p.  169. 

Visitors'  Tax,  for  one  pers.  16  •<#,  for  each  addit.  member  of  a  family 
b  M;  single  ticket  admitting  to  the  grounds  of  the  Curhaus  50  pf. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offloe  (PI.  3),  in  the  Neustadt,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Kahe. 

English  Ohnreh  Service  during  the  season  at  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m. 

Kreutnach  (340  ft.),  which  from  the  13th  to  the  15th  cent,  was 
the  capital  of  the  County  of  Sponheim ,  then  belonged  to  the  Pala- 
tinate, and  since  1814  has  been  Prussian ,  lies  on  the  Nahe,  about 
10  M.  from  the  Rhine.  Pop.  21,000,  of  whom  two-flfths  are  Roman 
Catholics.  The  river  separates  the  Altstadt  and  the  ^Badeviertel\  on 
the  right  bank,  from  the  Neustadt,  on  the  left,  and  above  the  town 
forms  the  Bade-Insel^  or  Bath  Island  (p.  167).  In  the  Altstadt  are 
the  churches  of  8t.  William  (Prot. ;  PI.  6) ,  St.  Wolfgang  (R.  C), 
and  the  Holy  Cross  (R.  C);  in  the  Neustadt  is  that  of  St.  Nicholas 
(R.  C. ;  PI.  7).  Several  bridges  unite  the  different  parts  of  the  town. 
The  old  stone  bridge,  which  crosses  the  lower  part  of  the  island,  and 
on  the  buttresses  of  which  several  houses  are  built,  affords  a  pictur- 
esque view.  The  Protestant  Church  of  St.  Paul  (PI.  5),  on  the 
island,  replaces  an  earlier  edifice,  destroyed  in  1689.    The  ruins  of 


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to  Metz.  KREUZNACH.  23.  Route,   167 

the  GotMc  choir  of  the  latter,  dating  from  1330,  were  fitted  up  as 
an  English  Chapel  in  1857-63  (PI.  8).  Adjoining  the  church  is  the 
marble  statue,  by  E.  Cauer,  of  Dr.  Prieger  (d.  1863);  in  the  Bis- 
marck-Platz  is  &  Statiie  of  Bismarck^  by  0.  Cauer  (189T);  and  in  the 
Eiermarkt  is  a  monument  to  Michel  Mort  (p.  168),  by  R.  Cauer 
(1902).  The  Public  School^  in  the  Kreuz-Strasse  (Altstadt),  contains 
the  municipal  collection  of  Roman  and  mediseval  antiquities  (apply 
to  the  janitor).  —  To  the  N.  of  the  Altstadt,  beside  the  glass- 
works, is  the  Heidenmauer  C'Heathens'  Wall')  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  fortification.  A  Frankish  palace  afterwards  stood  in  this 
neighbourhood.  —  A  fine  *Roman  Mosaic  Pavement,  32  ft.  long  and 
241/2  ft.  wide ,  was  discovered  in  1893 ,  in  a  very  fair  state  of  pre- 
servation, on  the  Hiiffelsheim  road ,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nahe, 
3/4  M.  from  the  old  bridge  (p.  166).  It  represents  combats  of  wild 
beasts  and  gladiators  (entr.  by  No.  26;  adm.  50  pf.). 

Kreuznach  is  a  watering-place  of  considerable  repute ,  and  is 
visited  by  6-7000  patients  annually.  The  Salt  Baths ,  which  are 
particularly  beneficial  in  cases  of  scrofula  and  cutaneous  diseases, 
are  situated  on  and  near  the  Bade-Insel|  or  Badeworth.  The 
principal  street,  flanked  with  hotels  and  lodging-houses,  leads 
from  the  church  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  Gnrhaus,  with  the 
adjacent  Badehaus  or  Bath  House  and  the  large  Jnhcdatorium  (a 
double  *Gradir-Haus',  with  a  central  passage).  In  the  morning 
and  evening  this  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  visitors ,  many  of  whom 
drink  the  waters  of  the  Elisabeth-Clnelle ,  a  spring  containing  bro- 
mine and  iodine ,  and  rising  from  the  porphyry  rock  at  the  S.  end 
of  the  island.  In  bad  weather  the  promenaders  take  shelter  in  a 
covered  walk,  130  yds.  long.  Concerts  are  given  here  thrice  daily 
in  the  season.  Agate  wares  of  Idar  (p.  172)  are  offered  for  sale. 
Below  the  chief  bridge,  on  the  Maiien-Worthf  is  an  hospital  managed 
by  Franciscan  monks. 

Opposite  the  Curhaus  an  iron  bridge  crosses  the  narrower  arm 
of  the  Nahe  and  connects  the  island  with  the  pleasant  ^Badeviertel\ 
consisting  of  baths  and  lodging-houses ,  on  the  right  bank.  The 
street  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  the  Bad  Kreuznach  Station 
(pp.  165, 170),  1/2  M.  from  the  Curhaus.  Near  this  station  are  a  large 
Deaconesses'  Institute  and  the  studio  (PI.  2)  of  the  brothers  Cauer, 
weU  known  for  their  skilful  treatment  of  subjects  from  the  domains 
of  fairy-tale  ('Sleeping Beauty',  'Cinderella',  etc.).  —  The  Cemetery, 
on  the  road  to  Hackenheim,  contains  a  Germania,  in  memory  of  the 
war  of  1870-71,  and  other  specimens  of  their  work. 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town ,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nahe 
(ascent  from  the  old  bridge,  or  from  the  Bade-Insel,  crossing  the 
iron  suspension-bridge  near  the  Kaiserau ;  toll  3  pf.),  rises  the 
Schlossberg  or  Kaozenberg  (490  ft.) ,  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of 
the  Counts  of  Sponheim,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.   The  hill 

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168   Route  23,  MONSTER  AM  STEIN.    From  Bingerhriiek 

is  laid  out  as  private  pleasure-grounds,  only  the  principal  avenue 
of  which  is  open  to  the  public.  The  vineyards  on  its  S.  slopes 
yield  an  excellent  wine,  called  *Kauzenberger\  The  summit  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  valley.  A  lion  hewn  in  stone,  brought  here 
from  Dhaun  (p.  171),  commemorates  Michel  Mort,  a  butcher  of 
Kreuznach ,  who  sacrificed  his  life  in  the  battle  of  Sprendlingen 
(1279)  to  save  his  prince,  Johann  von  Sponheim.  Paths,  with  pictur- 
esque views  ,  lead  hence  by  the  wooded  Haardt  to  the  Rothenfels 
(p.  169). 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe,  the  Salinen^Strasse  leads  past  the 
H6t.  Oranienhof  (near  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  suspension  bridge) 
and  the  Victoriastift,  a  charity  hospital  for  children,  to  (1  M.)  the 
salt-works  and  ^Gradirhauser'  (evaporating  sheds)  of  Garlslialle 
and  Theodorshalle  (H6tel  TulUuSj  Hdtel  Scheiber,  both  very  fair, 
R.  10-15 uif  per  week;  lodging-houses;  restaurant  and  pens,  in  the 
*Curhau8  Theodorshalle,  with  garden  extending  to  the  wood ;  plain 
rfmts.  in  the  Forsthaus).  These  baths,  the  property  of  the  town  of 
Kreuznach  ,  may  also  be  reached  by  a  shady  path  along  the  Nahe. 
About  IV2  M.  farther  on  lies  — 

Honster  am  Stein.  —  Hotels  (all  with  baths).  '^GuBHAns  Hotel,  by 
the  Cur-Park,  with  ddpendance,  R.  21/2-3V2,  B.  IV4,  D.  3,  board  S'/a  Jt; 
•HdxEL  Low,  R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  272,  board  4-6  Jt,  closed  in  winter;  HStbl 
Badm,  Bubat,  similar  charges;  Hotel-Pension  Zipp,  at  the  station;  Eng- 
LI8CHEB  HoF,  R.  2-3,  B.  8/4,  D.  21/4,  pens,  from  bJt;  Stolzenfels,  Schwan, 
similar  charges;  Pabiser  Hof.  Numerous  private  hotels. 

Bestaorants.  Cur-Garten  and  Curtaal;  Rabd^s  CentreO-Ca/S^  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Kahe ;  in  the  Hutten-Thal  (see  below) ;  Rail.  Restaurant. 

Visitors'  Tax  for  1  pers.  12,  2  pers.  17,  3  pers.  20,  4  pers.  23,  5  pers. 
26  Jt.    Adm.  to  the  Cur-Garten  25  pf. 

Miinster  am  Stein  (370  ft.;  rail,  stat.,  see  p.  170),  a  village 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Rheingrafenstein  and  the  Gans, 
also  possesses  salt-springs,  and  has  of  late  years  acquired  import- 
ance as  a  watering-place  (4500  patients  annually).  The  waters  of 
the  principal  salt-spring  (87^  are  conducted  directly  to  the  baths, 
which  are  well  fitted  up.  The  well-shaded  Cur-Garten  is  connected 
with  the  springs  by  a  covered  way.  Miinster  am  Stein  is  on  the 
whole  less  expensive  than  Kreuznach. 

The  *  Sheingrafenstein  (770  ft.) ,  a  picturesque  cliff  of  por- 
phyry ,  here  rises  426  ft.  ^almost  perpendicularly  from  the  Nahe. 
We  cross  the  river  by  the  ferry  near  the  saline  springs,  and  ascend 
the  Hutten-Thal  by  a  good  path  which  leads  to  the  ruin  in  ^2  **'• 
(the  highest  point  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps  ascending 
through  the  rocks).  The  boldly  situated  ruined  castle,  built  in  the 
11th  cent.,  once  the  residence  of  the  'Rheingraf en*  (Rhenish  counts), 
was  blown  up  by  the  French  in  1689. 

Fbom  Kbeuznagh  to  the  Gans,  Rheinghafenstbin,  and  MGnstbb  am 
Stein,  a  beautiful  walk  of  2V4-2V«  hrs. ;  route  hardly  to  be  mistaken.  About 
100  paces  beyond  the  small  temple  on  the  Euhberg  (iV*  H.  to  the  S.  of 
the  Bad  Kreuznach  Station;  comp.  Map)  a  path  diverges  to  the  right  from 
the  road,  leading  through  vineyurds  and  wood,  and  joining  the  road  again 


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to  Mett.  EBERNBURG.  23.  Route.    169 

beyond  the  (V2  hr.)  Rheingrafensteiner  Hof  (restaurant).  About  5  min. 
farther  on,  near  the  BJutngrafemieiner  SchVfuehen,  a  path  ascends  in  1/4  hr. 
to  the  top  of  the  ^CFans  (1060  ft.) ,  an  indented  ridge  of  porphyry,  com- 
manding an  extensive  view,  embracing  the  Kahe-ThiJ  as  far  as  Bingen  and 
part  of  the  Rheingau.  —  From  the  Gans  a  field-road  (direction-post)  runs 
towards  the  S.  through  the  wood  to  the  (25  min.)  Rheingrafenstein.  Descent 
to  the  Nahe  through  the  Hutten-Thal  (p.  168  j  V*  l^r-)-  ■—  Bypassing  to 
the  left  of  the  Bheingrafensteiner  Hof  we  reach  (35  min.)  the  Schd^er- 
placken,  where  the  boundaries  of  Prussia,  Bavaria,  and  Hesse  meet.  Thence 
to  the  right  to  the  Altenbaumburg  (see  below),  Vs  ^^' 

Opposite  the  Rheingrafenstein ,  to  the  W. ,  about  1/2  hr.  ttom 
the  Munster  am  Stein  station  (can.  2^2  Jfj  there  and  back  4  Jf\ 
rises  the  *Ebembiirg,  once  the  stronghold  of  Franz  von  Sickingen 
(1481-1523),  and  at  that  time  often  an  asylum  for  outlaws  and 
fugitives,  foremost  among  whom  ranks  Ulrich  von  Hutten,  the 
reformer,  who  resided  here  in  1520-22.  We  cross  the  bridge  (toll 
3  pf .)  and  ascend  to  the  right,  passing  several  inns  (near  the  station 
of  Ebernburg,  p.  170).  The  castle  was  fortified  by  the  French  in 
1689,  but  was  again  dismantled  at  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck  (1698). 
Out  of  the  ruins  rises  a  quaint,  pinnacled  building,  fitted  up  as 
an  Irm.  Below  the  castle  Is  a  Monument  to  Sickingen  and  Hutten,  by 
C.  Cauer,  erected  in  1889.  Fine  prospect  of  the  grand  environs. 

The  view  from  the  Sothenfels  (970  ft.),  a  barren  red  porphyry 
cliff  3  M.  from  Kreuznach,  and  IV2  M.  from  Mfinster  am  Stein, 
surpasses  that  from  the  Gans,  as  it  extends  farther  up  the  valley  of  the 
Nahe  and  embraces  the  Alsenz-Thal  as  far  as  the  ruin  of  Landsherg. 

A  charming  excursion  from  Miinster  am  Stein  may  be  made  either 
via  the  Bheingrafensteiner  Hof  and  the  Schaferplacken  (see  above),  or 
through  the  Hutten-Thal ^  a  valley  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Nahe  (ferry, 
already  mentioned),  and  finally  through  beautiful  woods,  to  the  (ii/4  hr.) 
^tenbaumburg  (Restaurant) ,  an  extensive  ruined  castle  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1689,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  ancient  'Raugrafen'*,  and  formerly 
called  the  Boymenehurg^  or  Croneburg.  Another  route  is  by  railway  to  Alten- 
bamberg  (p.  170)  and  then  on  foot  to  (25  min.)  the  Altenbaumburg 
(cump.  the  Hap,  p.  168).  —  The  ruins  of  the  chateau  of  Jfont/ort  (destroyed 
in  the  15th  cent.)  may  be  reached  from  Miinster,  by  the  villages  of  Mem- 
burg  and  Binaert^  in  2  hrs.  (refreshments  at  the  Montforter  Eof).  —  The 
^Lemberg  (1312  ft.),  which  rises  precipitously  from  the  Kahe,  near  Bingert 
(i>/4  hr.  from  Munster),  commands  an  extensive  panorama.  Restaurant  at 
the  top,  open  in  summer  three  days  weekly.  The  descent  may  be  made 
by  the  (20  min.)  bridge  of  Oberhausen  to  (V2  hr.)  stat.  WaldbSekelheim 
(p.  170).  —  The  Lemberg  may  also  be  ascended  from  stat.  Niederhausen 
(p.  170),  with  a  guide,  in  IV4  hr. 

Fbom  Ebeuznach  to  Wallhadsen,  572  M.,  steam-tramway  in  V2  hr. 
—  About  IV2  M.  beyond  Wallhausen  is  DaJhergy  with  the  ruins  of  the 
ancestral  seat  of  the  family  of  that  name.  Farther  on  are  (3  M.)  Weittenfelt 
(view)  and  Argenachufang^  with  a  ruined  castle. 

Fbou  Kkecznagh  to  Winteebdeg,  11 M.,  steam-tramway  in  I-IV4  hr.  — 
6  M.  Burg-Sponheim,  with  the  ruined  castle  of  the  Sponheim  family.  About 
1  M.  off  is  the  village  of  SponJieim,  with  the  fine  Romanesque  church  (1123) 
of  the  former  Benedictine  Abbey,  of  which  the  learned  Johannes  Trithe- 
mius  (p.  201)  was  abbot  in  1484-1506.  It  occupies  the  site  of  an  older 
structure  and  has  been  restored.  —  11  M.   Winterburg. 


Railway  to  SaabbbCcken  and  Mbtz.    The  district  between 
Kreuznach  and  Waldbockelheim  (p.  170)  and  the  neighbourhoo' 

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170  Boute  23.  ALSENZ.  From  Bingerbriick 

of  Oberstein  are  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  the  line.  Leaving 
the  principal  station  at  Kreuznach,  the  train  crosses  the  Nahe,  stops 
at  the  Bad'Kreuznach  station  (p.  166),  and  skirts  the  base  of  the 
Oans  (p.  169).  To  the  left,  where  the  train  next  crosses  the  Nahe, 
rise  the  two  curious  pinnacles  of  the  Bheingrafenstein  (p.  168). 

12^2  M.  Hunster  am  Stein  (370  ft.;  Bail,  Bestaurant,  very 
fair),  see  p.  168. 

Fbom  Hunsteb  am  Stein  to  Eaisebslautern,  37V2  M.,  railway  in 
ca.  2  hrs.  (fares  4  U>  80,  3  U>  20,  2  J^  10  pf.).  —  The  line  crosses  the  Nahe, 
which  here  forms  the  boundary  between  Prussia  and  Bavaria,  and  beyond 
(V2  M.)  Ebemburg  (p.  169),  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Alsenz.  —  2V«  M. 
AUenbamberg  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Altenbaumburg  (p.  169).  —  3i/e  M. 
ffochstdtten. 

7  M.  Alsenz  (Post),  a  village  with  sandstone  quarries.  From  Alsenz  to 
(4V3  M.)  Oaugrehtoeiler^  diligence  thrice  a  day;  then  on  foot  through  the 
valley  of  the  Appel  to  Ihen  and  via  Wonsheim  to  Flonheim  (comp.  p.  285). 

—  On  the  hill  to  the  right  of  (9V«  M.)  Mannweiler  is  the  ruin  of  Randeck. 
10  M.  Bayerfeld-Cmn\  12  M.  Dielkirchen, 

14  M.  Bockenhansen  (Deutscheg  Eaus)^  a  considerable  village,  the  best 
starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  the  Donnersberg  (see  p.  286).  —  16^/2  M. 
Im$u>€iler. 

20  M.  Winnweiler  (Zum  Donnertberff),  an  industrious  village,  with 
iron-works  and  a  copper-foundry,  near  the  picturesque  Falkensteiner-Thal, 
with  the  ruin  of  Falkenttein.  —  22  M.  Langmeil-MUnchweiler,  junction  for 
the  line  from  Alzey  (see  p.  286).  —  24V2  M.  Jfeuhemsbach-Sembaeh.  From 
(27  M.)  Enkenhach  the  direct  line  to  (33V2  M.)  Kaiserslautem  (p.  286) 
diverges  to  the  right  vi&  (31 V2  M.)  EseUfUrth.  —  The  main  line  continues 
to  (31  M.)  Hochspeper,  where  it  joins  the  'Pfalzische  Ludwigsbahn'  (p.  293). 

—  371/2  M.  Kaiserslauterfiy  see  p.  293. 

Beyond  a  cutting  the  Ebemburg  (p.  169)  appears  on  the  left. 
The  train  next  runs  between  the  Nahe  and  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pitous Bothenfels  (p.  169),  and  passes  through  two  tunnels.  From 
S16  M^  Niederhausen  the  Lemberg  may  be  ascended  in  II/4  hr. 
p.  16y).  On  the  right  rises  an  abrupt  rock,  crowned  with  the  ruins 
of  Bockelheimj  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1688,  in  which  the  £mp. 
Henry  IV.  was  kept  prisoner  by  his  son  Henry  V.  in  1105. — 19^2  M. 
Wald'Bdckelheim  lies  in  a  side-valley,  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station 
(diligence  thrice  daily).  The  above-mentioned  ruins  are  1  M.  from 
the  station,  and  Burg-Sponheim  (p.  169)  Is  about  11/2^-  ^ro°^  t^e 
village. 

Emerging  from  the  next  tunnel,  we  observe  on  the  left,  beyond 
the  Nahe  (20  min.  to  the  E.  of  Staudernheim),  the  ruins  of  Disi- 
bodenberg,  a  Benedictine  (subsequently  Cistercian)  abbey  named 
after  the  Irish  bishop  Disibodus  (d.  about  700),  the  first  propagator 
of  Christianity  in  this  district,  which  was  annexed  during  the  Re- 
formation by  the  Dukes  of  Zweibriicken  and  is  now  private  property. 
Little  is  left  of  the  buildings  beyond  the  foundations.  The  abbey- 
church,  consecrated  in  1143,  was  an  imposing  edifice  with  pillars ; 
the  vaulting  of  the  choir,  which  was  composed  of  nave  and  aisles, 
was  borne  by  imbedded  columns.  The  secular  portions  of  the 
monastery  are  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  13th  century.  Adjoin- 
ing the  church  were  the  cloisters,  and  to  the  right  of  them  the 

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to  Mett.  SOBERNHEIM.  23.  Route,   171 

chapter-house.  Farther  to  the  W,  was  the  residence  of  the  abbot, 
with  a  view  over  the  valley  of  the  Nahe,  and  to  the  E.  was  the  re- 
fectory, of  which  the  gable-walls  are  still  standing.  The  custodian 
shows  a  number  of  Gothic  fragments  (chiefly  keystones)  from  the 
old  building,  which  are  collected  in  a  vault.  The  pleasure-grounds 
around  the  ruins  afford  a  good  survey  of  the  valleys  of  the  Nahe 
and  its  affluent  the  Qlan  (rfmts.  on  Sun.). 

22Y2  M.  Standemheim  (460  ft. ;  Salmen ,  good  and  moderate) 
lies  to  the  left,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe,  connected  with  the 
station  by  the  five-arched  *Landgrafen-Brucke\ 

From  Staudbbnhbim  to  Msisbnhbih,  7  M.,  railway  in  25  min.  (fares 
60,  40  pf.).  The  line  ascends  the  pie  sant  valley  of  the  Olan.  —  Keisen- 
heim  (FfiUzer  Eof;  Engel)^  a  Prussian  district-town  (1800  inhab.),  prettily 
situated  on  the  Glan.  The  old  *8ehlo$*kirehe.dk  gem  of  late-Gothic  architec- 
ture, was  built  in  1479  and  restored  in  1875-80.  The  tower  dates  from 
1377-1404.  The  vaulted  buriai-chapel  (restored  in  1896)  contains  the  in- 
teresting tombs  of  Duke  Charles  I.  of  Zweibriicken  (d.  1600),  the  ancestor 
of  the  present  royal  house  of  Bavaria,  and  of  Duke  Wolfgang  (d.  1569)  and 
his  wife  and  daughter.  —  From  Meisenheim  to  KaittrtlavUm^  see  p.  294. 

24  M.  Sobemheim  (600  ft. ;  Post;  AdUr)  is  a  small  town  of 
some  antiquity,  partly  enclosed  by  a  wall.  Pop.  3300.  It  possesses 
a  late-Gothic  church,  an  o\^  Maltese  Chapel  adjoined  by  a  former 
lodge  of  the  order  (now  a  school),  and  several  picturesque  old  houses. 

27  M.  Monzingen  (Dick's  Hotel,  fair)  lies  to  the  right,  on  the 
vine-dad  slopes. 

From  Monzingen  a  road  leads  through  the  Soxthal  to  the  pleasani 
health-resort  of  Wald/riede  (1320  ft. ;  pens.  4-5  .J),  whence  various  excur- 
sions may  be  made. 

29^2  M.  Martinstein  (Seipel),  curiously  built  on  a  rock,  with 
its  church  on  an  eminence  surrounded  by  a  fine  group  of  trees. 
The  station  is  V2  ^-  ^om  the  village.  Beyond  it,  in  a  valley  opening 
on  the  right,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  Schloss  Dhaun,  The  KeUer- 
hizch  traverses  an  imposing  rocky  gorge. 

*8ehloss  Dhann ,  the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Bheingrafen  which  be- 
came extinct  in  1760,  was  erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  and  greatly  extend- 
ed in  1729.  This  strikingly -picturesque  castle  is  situated  6  M.  from 
Monzingen ,  21/4  M.  from  Martinstein,  and  dVs  M.  from  Kirn  (see  below ; 
carriage  7V«  Jf).  A  relief  over  one  of  the  doors,  representing  an  ape 
giving  an  apple  to  a  child,  commemorates  the  incident  that  a  child  of 
one  of  the  Counts  was  carried  off  by  an  ape,  but  fortunately  recovered. 
Magnificent  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Kahe  as  far  as  the  Lemberg ,  of  the 
Simmer-Thai,  and  of  the  dark  ravines  of  the  Soonwald.  Admission,  including 
fee  to  attendant,  30  pf.    Kear  the  entrance  is  an  inn  (pens.  4-6  UIO* 

On  an  eminence  to  the  right  stands  the  church  of  Johannisberg, 
which  contains  ancient  tombstones  of  the  Rheingrafen.  The  train 
next  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  reaches  — 

33  M.  Kini(595  ft. ;  Stroh,  at  the  station,  very  fair,  R.  &  B.  2-3  Jf), 
a  thriving  little  town  (6100  inhab.),  with  manufactures  of  cloth  and 
leather.  In  the  18th  century  it  was  the  residence  of  the  Princes  of 
Salm-Kyrburg,  the  last  of  whom  was  guillotined  at  Paris  in  1794. 
The  old  Romanesque  church,  lately  restored,  with  a  Gothic  choir  of 
the  16th  cent. ,  contains  a  fine  tabernacle  and  several  tombs  of  the 


172   RouU  23.  BIRKENFELD.  From  Bingerbriick 

Rheingrafen.  Above  the  town ,  1  M.  from  the  station,  is  the  ruin 
of  Kyrburg  (restaurant),  surrounded  with  vineyards. 

The  valley  now  expands,  but  the  line  again  enters  a  mountain- 
ous district  at  (35  M.)  Kim-Sulzbachj  where  the  cliffs  become  more 
abrupt.  The  most  interesting  part  of  the  line  in  point  of  construc- 
tion is  between  Kim  and  Birkenfeld,  where  there  are  no  fewer  than 
twenty  bridges  over  the  Nahe  and  ten  tunnels,  while  the  whole  of 
the  remaining  part  of  the  line  has  five  bridges  and  five  tunnels 
only.  Near  (38  M.)  FUchbaeh  (Post)  the  train  crosses  to  the  right 
bank.  —  39  M.  NahbolUnbaeh.  Then  follow  two  bridges,  with  a 
tunnel  between  them.  To  the  right  a  *View  of  the  *  Fallen  Rock' 
is  obtained,  and  then  of  Oberstein,  situated  most  picturesquely  on 
both  banks  of  the  Nahe. 

42V2  M.  Oberstein  (870  ft. ;  ^Restaurant  at  the  station,  with  pa- 
vilion and  view ;  Post,  Stark,  in  the  town,  near  the  new  bridge,  both 
very  fair,  R.  1V2-2,  B.  8/4,  D.  I3/4  Jf;  agates  sold  at  many  shops),  a 
town  with  8300  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  finest  points  on  the  Nahe.  The 
precipitous  cliffs,  400  ft.  in  height,  which  confine  the  town  within 
narrow  limits,  are  crowned  with  two  ruined  castles  of  the  Barons  of 
Oberstein,  who  became  extinct  in  1670.  The  best  way  to  the  castles 
(there  and  back  IY2  hr.)  is  the  *Burgweg',  ascending  to  the  right 
beyond  the  *Post\  By  this  route  we  first  reach  the  Neue  Sekloss 
(restaurant;  Hotel  Bach,  higher  up),  which  has  only  of  late 
fallen  to  decay,  and  then,  beyond  a  hollow  containing  a  War  Monu- 
ment (1870-71),  the  *Alte  Burg,  situated  almost  perpendicularly 
above  the  town.  About  5  min.  higher  is  a  pavilion  commanding  a 
very  extensive  *View.  We  may  now  return  by  the  Protestant 
Church,  curiously  built  into  the  face  of  the  rock  about  halfway  down 
(200  ft.  above  the  Nahe),  and  said  to  have  been  erected  in  the  12th 
cent,  by  a  member  of  the  Oberstein  family  with  his  own  hands,  as 
an  atonement  for  fratricide ;  it  was  restored  in  1482.  The  sexton 
lives  close  by.  The  Gothic  Roman  Catholic  Churchy  built  of  grey 
*melaphyre\  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe. 

From  Oberstein  an  electric  tramway  runs  in  1/4  br.  to  Idar  (Bdtel 
SchUtzenhof,  very  fair,  D.  I1/2  *#X  a  place  with  4700  inhab.,  most  of  whom 
are  occupied  in  cutting  and  polishing  agates,  an  industry  that  dates  back  to 
the  16th  century.  Agates  were  formerly  found  here  in  abundance,  but  their 
place  is  now  taken  mainly  by  stones  of  similar  character  from  Brazil  and 
the  East  Indies.  A  process  has  been  discovered  by  which  colourless  agates 
are  converted  into  onyxes,  sardonyzes,  etc.,  by  the  addition  of  colouring 
matter.  Idar  possesses  a  Gewerbehalle,  or  industrial  hall,  in  which  these 
wares  are  sold  at  officially-regulated  prices. 

43 V2  M.  Enzweiler;  46  M.  8onnenberg ;  47  M.  Kronweiler; 
48V2  M.  Nohen;  5OV2  M.  Heimbach;  52  M.  Hoppstdtten.  —  From 
(53^2  M.)  Birkenfeld'-Neubrucke  a  branch-line  diverges  to  (3  M.) 
Birkenffeldri315ft.;  Emmerich zur Post;  Warth,  B.&B.  {iom2%Jf'), 
the  capital  (^200  inhab.)  of  the  principality  of  Birkenfeld,  now  belong- 
ing to  the  Duchy  of  Oldenburg,  with  a  ruined  castle  (11th  cent.)  of 
the  Counts  of  Sponheim.   —  On  the  road  to  Bemcastel,  beyond 


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toMett.  SAARBRCCKEN.  S3.  Route.   173 

(31/2  M.)  the  small  Hambach  Sauerbrunnen  (baths),  lies  (7  M.) 
Huttsgewasen  (2300  ft. ;  Gethmann,  R.  &  B.  2,  D.  1 1/2,  pens.  4  Jf), 
the  highest  inhabited  spot  in  the  province  of  the  Rhine,  snrronnded 
with  wood,  and  "visited  as  a  summer-resort. 

56  M.  Nohfeldmj  with  an  old  keep.  — 571/2  M.  Turkismuhle,  the 
junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (14  M.)  Hermeskeil  (p.  202),  via  (7  M.) 
Otzenhauun  and  (9  M.)  Normweiler  (to  Nennkirchen,  see  below). 

The  Hunnexuring,  near  Ottenhausei^^  with  a  circumference  of  nearly 
1  M.,  is  the  largest  and  best-preserved  of  the  prehistoric  fortifications  in 
the  Rhineland.  It  consists  of  loose  blocks  of  sandstone,  and  is  highest 
(60  ft.)  on  the  N.  side. 

The  line  now  attains  the  culminating  point  (1270  ft.)  between  the 
Nahe  and  Blies  at  (59  M.)  Wallhauserij  and  then  descends  rapidly 
vil  Namhom  and  JSofeld  to  — 

66  M.  St.  Wendel  (970  ft.;  KnoU),  a  district-town  of  5500 
inhab.,  with  a  fine  old  Gothic  church  and  pulpit  of  1462. 

About  71/2  M.  to  the  W.  (diligence  daily  in  IV2  hr.)  is  the  small  town 
of  Tholey,  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine  abbey,  the  early-Gothic 
church  of  which  still  exists,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schaumberff  (1836  ft.),  a  vol- 
canic hill  commanding  a  fine  view,  l^umerous  Roman  antiquities  have 
been  found  in  the  environs. 

69  M.  Niederlinxweiler  ;7iy[.  Oettuei^r  (860  ft. ;  H6tel  Haass), 
with  6100  inhabitants.  The  train  now  passes  through  the  Wiebels- 
kirchen  Tunnel,  400  yds.  in  length,  and  reaches  the  important  coal- 
mining district  of  the  Saar.  About  11,000,000  tons  of  coal  are 
annually  produced  in  this  region,  five-sixths  of  which  are  raised 
from  mines  belonging  to  the  Prussian  government. 

75  V2  M.  Nennkiroheu  (845  ft. ;  Au,  near  the  bridge ;  Post,  near 
the  station),  a  town  with  28,000  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  the 
Mannheim  line  (R.  37).  Large  iron-works  (5000  workmen) ,  in 
front  of  which  rises  a  statue  of  the  late  proprietor  Freiherrvon  Stumm 
(d.  1901),  by  Schaper  (1902). 

Keunkirchen  is  also  connected  with  Saarbriicken  by  another  line  (16  M.), 
passing  BcMffweiUr,  Q,uir$cheid,  Camphamen^  and  Schlei/mUhle. 

Beyond  (771/2  M.)  Reden  (925  ft.)  is  the  Bildstock  Tunnel  (517 
yds.).  —  From  (81  M.)  Friedrichsthal  (970  ft.)  an  electric  tramway 
runs  to  Saarbiucken.  —  83  M.  Sulzbach;  851/4  M.  DudweOer  (760  ft.). 

88  M.  St.  Johann-Saarbrncken.  --  Hotels  (lifts,  electric  Ught,  and 
hot-air  heating  in  the  larger  houses).  ''Bhbinischkb  Hof,  Bahnhof-Str.,  Vs  M. 
from  the  station,  U.  S  Jtf  Mbssmbr,  Victoria-Platz,  near  the  station,  B. 
from  21/2,  B.  1,  jy.SJt;  Terminus,  opposite  the  station,  R.  2-3V2,  B.  »/*  ^» 
with  restaurant;  Korn,  very  fair,  R.  from  1  *#  80  pf.,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  2  Jl ; 
ScHWAN,  Kaiser-8tr.,  near  the  station,  well  spoken  of.  —  In  Saarbriicken,  H6t. 
Bbistoi.,  with  restaurant  and  garden.  —  Biver  Baths  above  the  old  bridge. 

Electric  Tramways  from  St.  Johann  to  Burbach  and  Louisenthal  (p.  180)  \ 
to  Brebach  (p.  315);  to  Friedrichsthal  (see  above);  and  over  the  new  Eaiser- 
WUhelm-Briicke  to  Saarbrucken  and  St.  Arnual  (p.  174). 

8t.  Johann  (21,000  inhab.)  and  Saarbrucken  (24,000  inhab.)  are 
two  sister-towns  on  the  right  and  left  bank  of  the  Saar,  united  with 
each  other  by  three  bridges. 


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174   BouU23.  METZ.  From  BingerbrOck 

St.  Johann,  with  the  railway-station,  is  entirely  modem,  dating 
its  importance  from  the  construction  of  the  railway,  which  does  not 
touch  Saarbriicken.  From  the  station  the  Reichs>Str.  and  Victoria- 
Str.  lead  to  the  Neue  Brucke  (new  bridge),  below  which  is  the  in- 
teresting coal-harbonr  (comp.  p.  173). 

Down  to  1793  Saarbiiicken  was  the  residence  of  the  Princes  of 
Nassau-Saarbriicken ,  whose  Schloas ,  burned  down  by  the  French 
revolutionary  army  in  that  year,  is  now  private  property.  The 
Schlosskirche  contains  monuments  of  the  princes.  In  the  Schloss- 
Platz  is  a  Statue  of  Bismarck,  by  Donndorf,  unveiled  in  1899.  The 
hall  of  the  Rathhaus  at  Saarbriicken  is  decorated  with  frescoes  by 
Werner,  commemorating  the  events  of  19th  July  to  9th  Aug.,  1870 
(see  below).  —  A  narrow  road  leads  from  the  Schloss-Platz  to  the 
TrUler,  an  eminence  with  gardens,  commanding  a  fine  view.  —  The 
Ludfjoigs' Kirche  dates  from  1762-75. 

Railway  to  Treves,  see  R.  24 ;  to  Saargemund,  Hagenau,  and 
Strassburg,  see  R.  41 ;  to  St.  Ingbert  and  Zweibrficken,  see  p.  300. 

On  the  heights  of  Spiehereny  about  3  H.  to  the  S.  of  Saarbriicken,  on 
6th  Aug.,  1870,  a  sharp  engagement  took  place  between  the  Prussiaiis  and 
French,  in  which  the  latter,  although  numerically  superior,  were  obliged 
to  retreat.  A  visit  to  the  battlefield  occupies  3-4  hrs.  (carr.  ca.  12  Jf,  at  the 
station,  etc.).  The  Hetz  road  is  followed,  passing  the  (IV2M.)  Ehrenthaly  the 
burial-place  of  the  German  soldiers  who  fell  at  Spicheren,  and  the  (IM.)  toll 
house  and  *Ooldene  Bremm'  inn,  near  which  is  the  Spieherer  Berg  Hotel,  with 
a  collection  of  relics  of  the  battle.  On  the  left  rises  the  Spieherer  Berg 
(875  ft.),  with  its  steep  and  scantily -wooded  slopes,  a  strong  position 
in  which  the  French  had  intrenched  themselves.  The  Germans  began 
the  attack  from  the  right  and  left  side  of  the  road,  and  from  the  Winter- 
bergy  a  hill  about  1  H.  to  the  S.E.  of  Saarbriicken.  A  tower  erected  here  to 
commemorate  the  victory  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  battlefield. 

At  St.  Amoal,  ly*  H.  to  the  S.E.  of  Saarbriicken ,  on  the  £.  side  of 
the  Winterberg,  is  a  ^Church  (1270-1316)  in  the  best  Gothic  style,  with  re- 
markably fine  font  and  pulpit,  and  interesting  monuments  of  the  Princes 
of  Nassau-Saarbriicken.  Opposite  is  the  Halhergy  with  the  modern  chftteau 
of  Freiherr  von  Stumm  (p.  173). 

The  Railway  to  Mbtz  crosses  the  Soar,  traverses  the  battlefield 
of  6th  Aug.,  1870,  and  passes  (5  M.)  Stieringen  and  the  little  town  of 
(6  M.)  Forhach  (Karsch,  R.  &  B.  2V2,  I>.  incl.  wine  21/2  UJT),  with 
7000  inhabitants.  To  the  left,  in  the  distance,  rises  the  hill  of 
Spicheren  (see  above).  The  country  beyond  Forbach  is  undulating. 
9  M.  Kochem,  At  (IIV4  M.)  Beningen  diverge  branch-lines  to  Saar- 
gemufhd  (p.  315)  and  to  Teterchen  (see  below)  and  Diedenhofen 
(p.  190).  Next  (I33/4  M.)  Oberhomburg  on  the  Rossel,  (18  M.) 
St.  Avoid,  (23  M.)  Tetingen,  (25  M.)  Falkenherg,  (28  M.)  Mai- 
weiUr,  (31 1/4  M.)  Herlingen,  (351/2  M.)  RemiUy,  and  (41 V2  M.)  Cour- 
celles,  all  frequently  mentioned  in  the  annals  of  the  Franco-Prussian 
war.  (Branch-line  from  Courcelles  to  Teterchen  and  Bous,  32  M., 
see  p.  190.)  45  M.  Peltre.  On  the  right,  before  the  station  of  Metz 
is  entered,  rises  Fort  Ooeben  (formerly  Fort  Queuleu). 

49  M.  Metl.  —  Hotels.  *GsAiin>-HdTEL  (formerly  H6t.  de  PEvrope; 
PI.  a,  C  4),  Priester-Str.  4,  E.  2V2-5,  d<j.  2Va,  D.  SUT;  •GaANi>-HdTEL  db 
Metz  (PI.  b ;  C,  4),  opposite,  E.  2-4,  d^j.  2,  D.  3,  S.  2  •#.  —  H6tbl  d' Angle- 

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to  Metz.  METZ.  23.  Route.  175 

TBSBS  (PI.  d;  C,  4),  Eom-Str.  4,  near  the  cathedral,  commercial',  HStbl 
DB  Pasis  (PI.  c )  G,  4),  Kammer-Platz  \  HdT.  db  LuxsMBOUsa,  Romer-Str.  55 ; 
Hot.  do  "Sord,  Steinweg  4,  with  restaurant  and  sammer-theatre  ^  Hotbl 
ZTO  Post,  Priester-Str.  38,  R.  from  iVa  -#,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  2  •#;  Rheinischbb 
HoF,  Esplanaden-Str.,  with  restaurant. 

Beitauranti.  MoUrieTj  Kapellen-Str.  4,  adjoining  the  Romer-Str.,  first- 
class;  Kaiser-PatfUlon  y  see  below.  —  Wine.  Kiljeuy  Tuch-Str.;  Bheini$che 
Wekuttibe,  Goldkopf-Strasse.  —  Beeb.  Germania,  Rdmer-Allee  (PI.  B,  5); 
BUrgerbr&Uy  Kaiser -Wilhelm - Platz ,  with  garden;  LdtoenbrdUy  Steinweg 
(PI.  B,  4);  Hofbr&u,  Bank-Str.  (PI.  B,  4);  FrantiskaneTy  Kammer-Platz. 

Oafes.  Kaiser-Pdvillon^  on  the  Esplanade  (PI.  B,  5),  with  «View  of  the 
the  valley  of  Moselle,  the  heights  of  Gravelotte,  and  Fort  Friedrich  Earl; 
Ca/i  Turcy  Esplanaden-Str.;  Ca/i  Cmirea^  Parade-Platz. 

Xlectrio  Ihramwayi  from  the  Cathedral  to  Montigny;  to  Longemile  and 
MotUifU}  to  Devani-let-PonU ;  and  to  other  points. 

Oabi.  TaxameUr  Cabt.  For  1-2  pers.  per  1000  metres  50  pf.,  each  addit. 
600  metres  10  pf. ;  3-4  pers.  per  750  metres  50  pf.,  each  addit.  375  metres 
10  pf ;  at  night,  1-4  pers.  per  500  metres  50  pf.,  each  addit.  250  metres  10  pf. 
Each  box  5©  pf.  —  Ordinary  Cabs.  Per  drive  within  the  town,  1-2  pers. 
60  pf.,  to  or  from  the  rail,  stations  1  •#,  each  pers.  additional  20  pf.;  per 
V»  hr.  for  1-2  pers.  1  •#,  Vi  hr.  1  •#  40,  1  hr.  1  Ul  60,  each  pers.  addit  20, 
30,  40  pf.  —  GarrUgei  to  the  battlefields,  12,  16,  20,  or  24  Ul,  with  fee, 
accord^g  to  the  extent  of  the  drive.  Carriages  should  be  hired  at  the 
hotels,  especially  if  the  tourist  intends  to  cross  the  French  frontier. 

Pott  Office,  Post-Str.  23.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Esplanaden-Strasse. 

Maps  and  Dbscbiptions  of  the  battlefields  are  sold  at  the  bookshops : 
Deutsclte  Buehhandlungy  Palast-Strasse;  0.  Scrtba^  Kammer-Platz  20;  (7.  MUller, 
Bomer-Str.  9.  German  scholars  will  find  LiebacK't  ^Taktische  wanderung 
iiber  die  Schlachtfelder*  (1  Ul  60  pf.)  of  interest. 

Mttviy  the  foitifled  capital  of  German  Lorraine  and  the  head- 
quarters of  the  16th  army-corps,  with  58,500  inhab.,  more  than  a 
half  of  whom  are  Germans,  and  a  garrison  of  23,000  men,  lies  in  a 
wide  basin  on  the  Moselle^  which,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town, 
is  joined  by  the  Stillt  on  the  right.  It  was  the  Divodurum  of  the 
Romans,  the  chief  town  of  the  Gallic  tribe  of  the  Mtdiomatrici.  It 
was  the  seat  of  a  bishop  in  the  4th  cent. ;  became  afterwards  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Austrasia;  and  in  870  passed  into  the 
possession  of  Germany.  Subsequently  Metz  was  a  free  city  of  the 
German  Empire,  until  it  was  taken  by  the  French  in  1552,  and 
successfully  maintained  by  them  against  Charles  Y .  By  the  Peace 
of  1556  it  was  ceded  to  the  French,  together  with  Toul  and  Verdun, 
and  in  1871  it  was  again  incorporated  with  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

The  ♦Esplanade  (PI.  B,  5),  which  extends  towards  the  S.W. 
of  the  town,  is  laid  out  in  pleasant  walks.  On  the  S.E.  side 
stands  a  Statue  of  Marshal  Ney  (1769-1815),  by  Petre  (1855).  In 
the  middle  of  the  Esplanade  is  an  Equestrian  Statue  ofEmp.  WiUiam  /., 
by  Ferd.  von  Miller.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  a  fountain  with  a 
figure  modelled  by  P^tre,  and  a  bronze  steed  and  other  animals  by 
Fratin.  The  W.  part  of  the  Esplanade  affords  a  fine  view  of  the 
valley  and  the  heights  of  St.  Quentin.  —  The  Boufflers  Garden, 
to  the  N.,  belonged  to  the  residence  of  the  French  governor  (1668), 
now  the  Palcu:e  of  Justice  (PI.  B,  4).  In  It  rises  a  Statue  of  Prince 
Frederick  Charles,  who  took  Metz  in  1870,  by  Ferd.  von  Miller 
(1898).  —  In  the  Old  Citadel  (PI.  B,  3)  a  church  of  the  Templars 


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176  RouU23,  METZ. 

(12th  cent.?)  has  recently  been  laid  bare,  to  the  W.  of  the  arsenal. 
In  the  same  neighbourhood  stands  the  ancient  and  now  disused 
Church  of  St.  Peter. 

The  Priester-Strasse  and  Bomer-Strasse,  running  to  the  N.  from 
the  Esplanade  and  the  Kaisbe-Wilhblm-Platz  (PI.  B,  5),  are  the 
chief  seats  of  business.  The  Fabert-Strasse,  continuing  the  Priester- 
Strasse,  ends  at  the  Pabadb-Platz  (PI.  C,  4),  between  the  cathedral 
and  the  Stadthaus  (1771).  The  square  is  adorned  with  a  Statue  of 
Marshal  Fdbert  (1659-1662),  a  native  of  Metz,  who  distinguished 
himself  in  the  campaigns  of  Louis  XIV. 

The  ♦Cathbdbal  (PI.  C,  4),  the  finest  edifice  in  the  town,  is 
a  magnificent  6K)thic  structure,  begun  under  the  influence  of  the 
Rheims  school  of  architecture  in  the  second  half  of  the  13th  century. 
The  lofty  nave  was  completed  before  1392,  the  choir  dates  from  the 
15th  and  16th  cent,  and  was  consecrated  in  1546.  A  thoroughgoing 
restoration,  under  the  superintendence  of  Tomow ,  has  been  in 
hand  since  1875,  and  both  the  main  portal  and  the  Porte  de 
Notre  Dame  (Parade-Platz)  have  been  rebuilt.  The  fine  stained- 
glass  windows  in  the  S.  aisle  date  from  the  13th  cent. ;  those  in 
the  nave  are  of  the  14th  and  15th  cent.;  those  in  the  transept  and 
the  choir  are  of  the  15th  and  early  16th  cent. ;  and  several  others 
are  modern.  In  the  S.  aisle  is  an  old  Roman  bath  used  as  a  font. 
The  tower  is  387  ft.  high  (110  steps  to  the  first  gallery,  105  more 
to  the  huge  bell  called  the  MuttCj  and  78  thence  to  the  highest 
gaUery). 

On  the  Moselle  Island  to  the  N.W.  of  the  cathedral  are  the  Pro- 
vincial Offices  (PI.  C,  8),  formerly  the  French  prefecture  (19th  cent.), 
and  the  Theatre  (18th  cent.).  Fine  view  of  the  cathedral.  A  Protestant 
church  has  been  buUt  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  island.  —  On  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river  rise  the  Church  of  St,  Vincent  (PI.  B,  0, 3), 
a  fine  Gothic  structure  begun  in  the  13th  cent.,  with  traces  of  the 
Romanesque  style,  but  disfigured  externally  with  an  unsuitable 
modern  facade,  and  the  Prot.  Military  Church  (PI.  B,  3),  in  the 
Gothic  style,  with  a  tower  318  ft.  in  height. 

The  Library  (PI.  C,  2),  in  the  Bibliothek  -  Strasse ,  contains 
many  valuable  works  on  the  history  of  Lorraine  and  the  town  itself. 
The  Museum  J  in  the  same  building,  is  open  on  Sun.  10-4  and  on 
Wed.  1-4,  gratis;  on  other  days  10-4,  fee.  It  contains  Roman  mon- 
uments and  other  antiquities  found  near  Metz,  a  few  mediaeval 
objects,  a  collection  of  coins,  and  an  unimportant  picture-gallery. 

In  the  Geisberg-Strasse,  adjoining  the  Library,  is  the  Austrasian 
Palace  J  erected  on  the  site  and  partly  with  the  materials  of  a  Roman 
palace  in  1599.  It  has  recently  been  rebuilt  and  now  serves  as  a 
commissariat- store.  —  The  early-German  Church  of  St,  Segolene 
(PI.  D,  3)  has  also  been  recently  rebuilt. 

The  bridge  between  the  Goldschmied-Strasse  and  the  Deutsche- 
Strasse  (PI.  C,  D,  4)  affords  a  view  of  the  lofty  tanneries  character- 


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GRAVELOTTE.  23.  Boute.    177 

istic  of  Metz.  —  The  Church  of  St.  Eucharius  (PI.  D,  4^,  with  a  plain 
interior,  near  the  Deutsche  Thor  (1448;  restored  in  1892),  dates  from 
the  12th  century. 

To  the  N.  of  the  town  is  the  Charribihre  Cemetery  (adjoining  Pi.  D,  21 
■with  a  lofty  Memorial  to  the  French  soldiers  who  died  at  Metz  in  1870. 

Metz  is  the  junction  of  the  Saarbriicken  Railway  with  the  lines  to 
Pagny  and  Nancy  (p.  179),  to Diedenho fen  (p.  190)  and  Jjuxembourg 
(p.  189),  and  to  AmanweiUr  and  Verdun.  [To  Amanweiler,  9V2  M., 
in  3/^-1  hr.,  passing  Moulins  (electric  tramway,  see  p.  175),  situated 
at  the  entrance  of  the  valley  of  Monvaux,  which  the  train  ascends, 
and  Chdtel-St'Oermain ;  the  station  of  Amanweiler  (restaurant)  is 
11/4  M.  from  St.  Privat.] 

The  Battle  Fields  of  16th  and  18th  August,  1870,  lie  to  the  W.  of 
Metz,  on  the  road  to  Verdun.  A  visit  to  them  occupies  a  whole  day, 
even  by  carriage  (see  p.  175).  It  is  advisable  to  send  on  the  carriage  in 
advance  aad  to  join  it  at  Noviant  (p.  179)  by  an  early  train,  and  to  return 
by  a  late  train  from  AmantoeUer  (see  above).  From  Nov^ant  we  proceed 
to  (2V«  M.)  Gorte;  Vionville  3»/4  M.j  RetonvilU  2  M. ;  Oravelotte  2  M.  1  to 
St.  Hubert  and  back  (on  foot)  3  M.  \  from  Gravelotte  to  VernMUe  3  M.  j 
Ste,  Marie-aux-CTienes  8  H.;  St.  JYivcU  2  M.;  Amantgeiler  IV4  M.  Cyclists 
may  adopt  the  following  route:  from  Metz  to  LongeviUe^  8  M. ;  Lei  Moulins^ 
IV4  M. ;  Maiison  Neuve^  1  M.;  Chatel  St.  Germain  and  Amantoeilerj  6  M.  ^ 
St.  Frivaty  IV4  Af .  •,  then  by  the  Roncourt  road  to  the  (Vz  M.)  Saxon  Monument 
and  past  the  Monument  of  the  lat  Guards  Regiment  to  Ste.  Marie-aux-CJienes 
(1  M.)t  Vemiville,  8V«  M. ;  Gravelotte,  3  M.  Then  to  RezmvUle  (2V2  M.),  Vion- 
ville (2V2  M.),  and  Afars-la-Tottr  (3M.),  and  back  to  Gravelotte;  visit  the 
ravine  of  St.  Hubert  (U/i  M.)  and  return  vi&  (5V2  M.)  Les  Moulins  to  Metz, 
41/2  M.  —  Information  on  all  points  connected  with  the  battles  is  given 
by  the  keepers  of  the  monuments  and  burial-grounds.  —  A  commemorative 
ceremony  is  held  yearly  on  Aug.  i5th  in  the  ravine  at  Gravelotte,  and  the 
graves  are  decked  with  flowers. 

Those  who  desire  to  visit  the  Battle  Field  of  the  18th  August  only  should 
proceed  by  railway  to  An  (p.  179) ;  walk  thence  to  (IV2  hr.)  Gravelotte ; 
visit  the  ravine  of  St.  Hubert  (1  hr.  there  and  back) ;  go  on  to  (1  hr.)  Verni- 
paie  and  via  Habonville  and  St.  Ail  to  (IV4  hr.)  Ste.  Marie-aux-Chinee,  follow  the 
route  of  the  advancing  guards  to  {*U  hr.)  St.  Privat  and  thence  to  (1/2  hr.) 
AmoMJoeiler  Q50  min.  direct  from  Vem^ville) ,  whence  the  return  to  Metz  is 
made  by  railway. 

Oravelotte  (CJieval  cCOr,  Post^  both  very  fair),  formed  the  centre  of  the 
right  wing  of  the  German  position,  consisting  of  the  7th  and  8th  Prussian 
(yorps  (commanded  by  Zastrow  and  Gosben  under  Steinmetz),  which  towards 
evening  were  supported  by  the  2nd  Corps  (under  Fransecky).  At  the  E. 
end  of  the  village  is  a  large  soldiers'  cemetery,  to  which  most  of  the  graves 
scattered  over  the  plain  have  been  removed. 

The  road  descends  into  the  wooded  ravine  of  Gravelotte,  through 
which  the  8th  Prussian  corps  had  to  defile.  Numerous  regimental  mon- 
uments bear  witness  to  the  terrible  losses  of  the  attacking  party.  The  inn 
of  St.  Hubert  was  captured  by  the  Germans  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon. 
The  height  of  Point  du  Jour,  now  crowned  by  a  fort  and  inaccessible,  was 
the  chief  ^point  d'appui'  of  the  left  wing  of  the  French  army  (composed 
of  the  2nd  Corps  under  Frossard  and  the  3rd  Corps  under  Leboeuf),  the 
lines  of  which  extended  to  Rozerieulles.  The  French  maintained  their 
position  until  nightfall,  but  retreated  on  the  morning  of  the  19th. 

In  the  middle  of  the  village,  the  road  divides,  both  branches  leading 
to  Verdun.  On  that  to  the  right  (N.)  lies  the  farm  of  Mogador^  near  which 
is  a  rock  with  an  Inscription,  marking  the  spot  whence  Emp.  William 
witnessed  the  battle  $  it  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  farms  of  Point-du-Jour^ 

Babdbksb's  Rhine.    16th  Edit.  12* 


178   Route  23.  MARS-LA-TOUR.  Battlefields 

MoscoUf  Leiptig^  Montignp-kt-Orange^  etc.,  on  the  opposite  heights,  then 
occupied  by  the  French.  Malmauon,  the  next  fkrm  on  this  road,  was  oc- 
cupied by  the  9th  Prussian  Corps  d'Arm^e  (under  Manstein),  the  lines  of 
which  extended  along  the  road  diverging  to  the  right  as  far  as  (IV4  M.) 
Vemeville.  To  the  W.  of  the  village  (reached  by  the  road  diverging  to 
the  left)  is  a  handsome  Monument  to  some  of  the  fallen  Germans.  We 
now  cross  the  field  to  the  right  and  reach  the  road  to  Amantoeilei'.  The 
villages  of  Habonville  and  St.  Aily  from  which  the  right  wing  of  the  guards 
(under  Prince  Augustus  of  Wurtemberg)and  behind  it  the  reserve  of  the 
10th  Corps  (under  Voigts-Bhetz)  advanced,  are  on  French  territory;  Ste. 
Marie-avx-ChSnes ,  •/«  ^-  farther  on,  the  centre  of  the  left  wing  of  the 
guards,  now  belongs  to  Germany.  Here  there  is  a  French  monument. 
Farther  N.  are  Montou-la-Montagne  and  Malancourt^  where  the  left  wing 
of  the  German  line  of  battle  was  terminated  by  the  Saxon  corps  (under 
the  Crown  Prince  of  Saxony).  The  right  wing  of  the  French  opposite 
(consisting  of  the  4th  Corps  under  Ladmirault,  and  the  6th  Corps  under 
Canrobert)  was  posted  by  the  villages  of  Roncourt  and  St-Privat-la^Kontagne 
(new  inn),  on  the  road,  opposite  Ste.  Marie,  both  of  which  were  taken  in 
the  evening  by  an  attack  of  the  guards  and  the  Saxons,  whereupon  the 
right  French  wing  retreated  towards  Metz  in  great  confusion.  Several 
Monuments  have  been  erected  to  the  Germans  on  the  road  from  Ste.  Marie 
to  St.  Privat.  —  The  eight  German  Corps  d'Arm^e  engaged  in  this  battle 
numbered  about  230,(X)0  men,  opposed  to  whom  were  180,(X)0  French.  The 
Germans  lost  899  officers  and  ld,260  men:  the  French  609  officers  and 
11,705  men. 

The  Battle  Field  of  the  16th  August  adjoins  that  above  described,  and  may 
be  conveniently  visited  by  taking  the  train  to  NovicuU  (p.  179)  and  the 
botel-onmibus  or  motor-omnibus  thence  to  (2Vs  M.)  Oone  {LUmd^Or^  very 
fair;  open  carr.  to  visit  the  battlefield  4-5  •#).  Walkers  proceed  from  Gorze 
via  Flivigny  to  (1V«  hr.)  Vionville  and  thence  to  (V4  hr.)  Bezonville  and 
•back  to  (11/4  hr.)  Gorze.  —  Mars-la-Tour  is  best  visited  from  Pagny  (p.  179). 
The  object  of  the  German  attack  was  to  prevent  the  French  retreating 
."towards  the  W.  —  The  position  of  the  French  was  principally  supported  on 
4  ^e  left  by  the  village  of  Besonville,  situated  on  the  left  (S.)  branch  of  the 
>  i>pad  from  Gravelotte,  and  1  Va  M.  distant  from  it ;  King  William  spent  the 
o  (light  of  18-19th  Aug.  in  the  last  house  to  the  W.  (tablet).  (A  little  to  the  S. 
}  of  the  village,  at  the  end  of  the  ravine  ascending  from  Gorze,  mentioned 
above,  is  a  monument  to  the  commander  of  the  72nd  Regiment,  who  fell 
at  this  spot ;  good  view  hence.)  About  2  M.  farther  on  lies  Vionville,  which 
was  occupied  soon  after  the  beginning  of  the  battle  by  detachments  of 
*the  3rd  Corps  d'^Arm^e  (Brandenburgers).  Farther  advance  w  as,  however, 
impossible  in  the  face  of  the  great  numerical  superiority  of  ihe  French 
troops.  To  prevent  the  progress  of  the  French,  a  desperate  attack  was 
made  on  their  artillery  and  infantry  by  the  (German  cuirassiers  and  uhlans, 
who,  however,  had  eventually  to  retire  before  the  overwhelming  masses 
of  the  French  cavalry.  A  mon>'ment  to  the  N.  of  Bezonvllle  marks  the 
scene  of  this  gallant  episode.  After  6  p.m.  repeated  attacks  were  made 
from  the  8.  by  the  8th  Army  Corps  and  the  Hesse-Darmstadt  Division,  but 
the  withering  fire  on  both  sides  prevented  any  definite  result.  In  the 
meantime  a  not  less  bloody  act  of  the  terrible  drama  was  taking  place  to 
the  W.  of  Vionville,  near  Tronville  and  Kars-la-Tour,  where  the  lOtti  Army 
Corps,  with  part  of  the  9th,  managed  to  hold  the  numerically  superior 
enemy.  About  6.45  p  m.  took  place  the  finest  cavalry  engagement  in  the 
whole  war,  when  six  regiments  of  French  horse  were  routed  by  21  squad- 
rons of  Prussian  cavalry  (Rheinbaben  Division)  Numerous  monaments 
dot  the  battlefield,  many  of  them  on  the  French  side  of  the  frontier.  Beyond 
l*lar8-la-Tour.  near  the  rail,  station,  is  the  chief  French  monument,  by 
Bogino.  —  The  battle  of  16th  Aug.  was  one  of  the  bloodiest  fought  during 
the  whole  war.  In  the  course  of  the  day  no  fewer  than  138,000  French 
troops  and  476  guns  were  engaged  at  intervals,  while  the  German  forces 
amounted  to  67,0(X)  men  with  !^2  guns.  The  French  loss  was  estimated 
at  879  officers  and  16,128  men,   and  the  German  loss  at  711  officers  and 


y  Google 


near'Metz.  COLOMBEY-NOUILLY.         23.  Route.   179 

15,079  rank  and  file.  The  advantage  lay,  on  the  whole,  with  the  Germans, 
who  prevented  their  opponents  from  re-opening  the  road  to  Verdun. 

To  the  E.  of  Metz  he  the  Battle  Fields  of  14th  Aug.  and  of  31st  Aug. 
and  1st  Sepi.^  1870.  We  take  the  diligence  (thrice  daily)  to  (in  IV4  hr.) 
Noi$»enU€  and  walk  via  Servigny  and  Colomhey  to  (4-6  hrs.)  Felire,  where  we 
reach  the  railway.  —  The  former  battle  began  between  three  and  four 
o''clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  ended  at  9  p.m.  by  the  French  being  driven 
back  ander  the  guns  of  Metz.  The  Germans  have  named  it  the  battle  of 
Golombey-Nouilly  ^  as  the  ground  between  these  villages  was  the  principal 
object  of  attack  (see  Hap).  The  result  of  the  battle  was  to  cause  a  fatal 
delay  in  the  intended  march  of  the  French  to  Verdun. 

The  battle  of  31st  Aug.  and  1st  Sept.  was  fought  on  the  occasion 
of  the  first  and  most  determined  attempt  of  Marshal  Bazaine  to  break 
through  the  German  army  which  had  surrounded  Metz  since  19th  August. 
The  chief  object  of  dispute  was  the  small  village  oi  NoUsevillt  (see  above), 
5  M.  from  Metz,  on  the  road  to  Saarlouis.  The  4th  and  6th  Corps  and 
the  guards  of  the  French  took  the  place  about  6  p.m.,  soon  after  the 
beginning  of  the  battle  5  they  lost  it  about  9  p.  m.  and  re-captured  it  at 
10  p.  m.  On  the  following  day  the  Germans  took  the  village  three  times 
and  lost  it  as  often,  but  at  length  aboat  noon  they  succeeded  in  gaining 
final  possession  of  it.  The  principal  German  monuments  rise  to  the  S. 
of  the  village,  and  there  are  several  others  near  Servigny  to  the  N.  of  it, 
and  near  Colombey  to  the  S.  The  German  loss  amounted  to  126  officers 
and  2850  men,  and  the  French  loss  to  141  officers  and  2664  men. 

To  the  N.  of  Metz,  not  far  from  the  road  to  Diedenhofen,  lies  Woippy^ 
where  Bazaine^s  last  sortie^  on  7th  Oct.,  terminated  in  the  retreat  of  the 
French  after  a  battle  of  nine  hours'*  duration.  —  At  the  chateau  of  Fi-es- 
cati  (now  a  barrack,  see  below),  2V4  M.  to  the  8.  of  Metz,  on  27th  Oct., 
was  signed  the  capitulation  of  Metz,  whereby  the  fortress  with  3  marshals, 
50  generals,  6000  other  officers,  173,000  men  (including  20,000  sick  and 
wounded),  53  eagles,  66  mitrailleuses, 541  field-pieces,  and 800  fortress-guns, 
together  with  a  vast  quantity  of  other  munitions  of  war,  was  surrendered 
to  the  Germans. 

Fbom  Metz  to  Pagnt,  I21/2  M.,  railway  in  1/2-I  ^^'  (feres 
1  Uif  70,  1  uif  20,  80  pf .).  —  The  line  ascends  the  picturesque  and 
well-peopled  valley  of  the  Moselle,  which  flows  between  hills  of  mod- 
erate height.  Soon  after  leaving  Metz,  at  the  point  where  the  line 
to  Diedenhofen  branches  off  to  the  right,  we  pass  on  the  left  Fort 
8t,  Privat,  now  Prinz  August  von  Wiirttemberg,  and  then  the  chateau 
of  Frescati  (see  ahove),  embosomed  in  trees.  A  little  farther  on,  the 
train  crosses  the  river  and  reaches  (5  M.)  Ars-sur- Moselle,  with 
several  manufactories  of  sparkling  wine.  On  the  hill  is  the  Kron- 
prins  Fort.  In  the  Moselle  valley,  between  Ars  and  Jouy-aux- Arches 
(^Hdtel  de  TAqueduc  Remain,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  village)  on  the 
right  bank,  about  6  M.  from  Metz,  are  situated  extensive  remains  of 
a  Roman  Aqueduct  erected  by  Drusus,  which  was  once  about  60  ft. 
in  height  and  8/4  M.  in  length ,  and  conducted  water  from  the  hiUs 
on  the  left  bank  to  Metz.  At  Ars  there  are  seven,  and  at  Jouy 
eleven  arches  still  standing.  On  the  hill  of  8U  Blaise  (1195  ft.)  above 
Jouy  is  the  OrafHaeseler  Fort.  —  7  M.  Ancy,  on  the  Moselle.  —  From 
(8^2  M.)  Noviant  an  omnibus  plies  thrice  daily  (once  on  Sun.)  to 
Gorze  (p.  178).  —  I21/2  M.  Pagny  is  the  French  frontier-station. 
Thence  to  Nancy  and  Paris,  see  Baedeker'^s  Northern  France. 

From  Metz  to  Treves  and  Luxembourg,  see  pp.  190-188. 

12<iOOgle 


180 

24.  From  Saarbrucken  to  Treves,  and  thence  to 
Lnxembonrg  and  Metz. 

Cotnp.  Map^  p.  172, 

Railway  to  TrHes  (55  M.)  in  2-21/2  lirs.  (fares  7  Ul  20,  5Ur  40,  3  •#  60  pf.) : 
from  Treves  to  Luxembourg  (82  M.)  in  1V4-2  hrs.  (fares  4  •#  30,  3  Ul,  1  J* 
90pf.)5  from  Treves  to  Metz  vi&  Diedenhofen  (66  M.)  in  2V4-3  hrs.  (fares 
8  Ur  30,  5UI  90,  3ul  90  pf.-,  express  9  UT  50,  6  UT  90,  4Ul  90pf.;  return- 
tickets  available  via  Luzemboarg  are  issued).  —  On  the  journey  from 
Luxembourg  to  Treves  a  brief  halt  is  made  for  a  custom-house  examina- 
tion at  Karthaut  (p.  189). 

Saarhfucken,  seep.  173.  The  line  follows  the  course  of  the  Soar, 
Numeious  coal-mines  and  manufactories  are  passed.  2  M.  Burhadh^ 
with  a  large  foundry.  4  M.  Louisenihal^  also  connected  with  Saar- 
brilcken  by  tramway.  From  (6  M.)  Vblklingen  (Kalserhof;  Miiller- 
Etsch'eid),  with  a  large  foundry,  a  branch-line  runs  to  Wadgaasen^ 
joining  the  line  from  Bous  to  Teterchen  (p.  174).  —  10  M.  BouSj 
the  junction  of  the  line  to  Teterchen  and  Courcelles  (p.  174); 
12^2  M.  Ensdorf,  connected  with  Wallerfangen  and  Saarlouis  by 
tramway. 

141/2  M.  SaATlonis  (Rheinischer  Hof;  Zwei  Hcaen)^  1  M.  from 
the  rail,  station,  with  7900  inhab.,  formerly  a  fortress,  constructed 
in  1680-85  by  Vauban  for  Louis  XIV.,  is  now  used  as  a  military 
dep6t  only.  The  town  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Saar.  About  2  M. 
to  the  N.  (tramway,  see  above)  is  Wallerfangen  (Vaudrefange), 
once  a  fortified  place,  with  the  fayence  manufactory  of  Messrs.  Yil- 
leroy  &  Boch  (see  below)  and  a  park. 

17  M.  Dillingeny  the  junction  for  the  Niedthal  line  to  Busendorf 
on  the  Diedenhofen  (Thionville)  and  Teterchen  railway  (12^2  M. ; 
Bee  p.  190).  —  20  M.  Beekingen ;  221/2  M.  Fremmersdorf.  —  24^/2  M. 
Merzig  (Hdtel  Hoffmann j  Trierscher  Hof,  both  very  fair;  BeUevue; 
Post) J  an  industrial  town  with  6500  inhab.,  on  the  wooded  right  bank 
of  the  Saar,  is  of  ancient  origin  (Mareiacum),  The  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  a  late-Romanesque  (transitional)  basilica  of  the  end  of  the 
12th  cent.,  with  a  lofty  dome  over  the  crossing,  round-arched  windows, 
and  pointed  arcades,  was  restored  in  1887-88  and  provided  with  a 
mosaic  flooring.  The  Gothic  Protestant  Church  was  built  in  1865. 
The  Rathhaus  dates  from  1625.  About  1  M.  lower  is  a  large  Lunatic 
Asylum^  behind  which  rises  the  Oalgehberg  (view). 

A  light  railway  is  now  being  built  to  Biltchfeld  (on  the  Wemmets- 
weiler  and  Nunnweiler  railway,  p.  178). 

The  train  now  tunnels  through  the  heights  of  Montclair,  round 
which  the  Saar  makes  a  considerable  circuit. 

29  M.  Mettlaoh(550ft.;  ZtWiSfaar,  very  fair),  with  1600  inhab.  and 
the  Imposing  buildings  of  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey  (1737-71), 
originally  founded  in  the  8th  cent,  by  St.  Ludyinus,  and  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  extensive  earthenware  -  factory  of  ViUeroy  ^  Boch 
(2000  workmen).  The  modem  parish-church  contains  a  reliquary  of 
the  i2th  cent,  and  other  valuable  objects  from  the  old  treasury  of 


yGOOg 


SAARBURG.  24.  Routt,    181 

the  aT>bey.  The  ^Museum'  at  the  factory  (application  for  adm.  at 
the  hotel)  contains  specimens  of  the  very  tasteful  productions  of 
the  works  since  their  establishment  in  1810,  and  also  numerous 
pieces  of  ancient  and  modern  pottery  of  all  kinds.  The  pretty  park, 
with  the  ruined  choir  of  the  Romanesque  Chapel  of  8t.  Ludvinus 
(restored),  is  generally  accessible  to  the  pubUc.  Fine  view  from 
the  Pavilion  (V2  M. ;  restaurant).  —  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Saar 
lies  Keuchingeny  an  artizan  colony,  connected  with  Mettlach  by  an 
iron  bridge. 

From  the  Pavilion  (see  above)  a  pleasant  forest-path  ascends  to  CA  hr.) 
the  ruined  castle  of  Kontolair  (1060  ft.;  'View),  destroyed  in  1360  by 
Elector  Baldwin  of  Treves  (key  kept  by  the  park-keeper  at  Mettlach).  — 
On  the  left  bank  of  the  Saar,  opposite  the  N.  point  of  the  Montclair  hills, 
rises  the  Glef  (1475  ft.;  rfints.  on  Sun.),  reached  from  Keuchingen  in 
IVs  hr.  by  a  white-marked  path  ascending  to  the  left  from  the  highroad. 
The  hill,  which  was  once  fortified  as  the  key  to  this  district,  affords  a 
fine  survey  of  the  two  arms  of  the  valley  of  the  Saar,  separated  by  a 
narrow  strip  of  land. 

The  line  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Saar  j  picturesque  scenery, 
particularly  near  (34  M.)  Tdbeny  high  above  which  to  the  left  is  the 
Tdben  Chapel ,  commanding  a  fine  view.  —  38  M.  Serrig  is  the 
best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  Klaus  or  chapel  of  Castel,  rising 
on  a  precipitous  rock  on  the  right  bank. 

From  the  station  we  descend  in  5  min.  to  the  Saar,  cross  it  by  boat, 
and  descend  the  left  bank  for  about  100  paces  until  a  narrow  side-valley 
opens  on  the  left.  We  ascend  this  to  (25  min.)  the  entrance  «f  the  park 
surrounding  the  chapel  (if  the  gate  is  closed,  the  key  must  be  called  tor 
at  the  village  of  Ccutely  Vs  M.  distant).  The  *Elaui',  on  a  bold  rock  over- 
hanging the  Saar,  is  a  chapel  restored  in  1838  by  Frederick  William  IV., 
in  which  he  deposited  the  bones  of  bis  ancestor,  the  blind  king  John  of 
Bohemia,  who  fell  at  Cr^cy  in  1346;  the  modem  sarcophagus  is  of  black 
marble.  Fine  views  of  the  valley  of  the  Saar  and  of  Saarburg,  which  may 
be  reached  from  Serrig  by  a  pleasant  walk  along  the  river  in  1  hr. 

4072  M.  Beurig  is  the  station  for  — 

Saarburg  (^Poat;  Restaurant  Thinnes,  both  with  gardens),  pictur- 
esquely situated  in  a  basin,  and  commanded  by  the  considerable  ruins 
of  a  castle  of  the  Electors  of  Treves ;  a  tunnel  leads  under  the  castle 
to  the  town.  Pop.  *X100.  The  Gothic  Church  of  8t,  Lawrence  was 
erected  in  1856.  The  Leuk,  which  here  unites  with  the  Saar,  forms 
a  waterfall,  60  ft.  high,  near  the  *Post'.  The  Pavilion,  on  the  height 
to  the  S.,  opposite  the  castle,  commands  a  fine  view.  —  43  M. 
Schoden. 

The  line  descends  the  valley  of  the  Saar,  passing  (45  M.)  Wil^ 
tingen,  where  remains  of  Roman  buildings  were  recently  dis- 
covered, (r.)  Scharthof,  and  Ober-Emmely  celebrated  for  their  wines, 
to  (491/2  M.)  Cons  (266  ft. ;  Post),  below  which  it  enters  the  valley 
of  the  Moselle.  Gonz  (2000  inhab.)  is  the  Roman  Contionacum, 
whence  several  imperial  edicts  were  dated.  A  few  remains  of  the 
imperial  villa  mentioned  by  Ausonius  (p.  190)  are  still  recognisable 
near  the  church.  Conz  is  also  united  with  Treves  by  a  special 
branch-line  (5  M.)  passing  the  stations  of  Zewen  and  Eur  en. 


182   Route  24,  TREVES.  Practical  Notes, 

5OY2  M.  Karthaua  (Railway  Hotel) ,  tlie  junction  of  the  Metz 
and  Luxembourg  lines  (p.  188).  —  53 Y2  M.  Lowenbriicken. 

55  M.  Treves.  —  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  8)  tor  all  paasenger 
trains  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town.  — 
The  station  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle  serves  merely  for  the  local 
traffic  to  Conz  and  Ehrang. 

Hotels.  *FoBTA  NiGBA  (PI.  n ;  C.  3),  in  an  open  situation  opposite  the 
Porta  Nigra,  with  restaurant  and  veranda,  B.  2V3-10,  B.  1,  D.  3  jf;  'Hotel 
PE  TBftVKS  (PI.  a;  C.  4)i  Venediq  (PI.  d-,  B,4),  Briicken-Str.,  commercioL 
R.  2  3,  B.  i,  D  2V2UI;  P08T  (PI.  e-,  C,  4),  in  the  Kornmarkt,  B.  IVa-SVa, 
B.i  Jt,  D.  2  Ul  40  pf.,  pens.  473-6  Uff;  Hotel  db  Luxbmboubg  (PI.  c-,  C,  4), 
B.  2>/2-6,  B.  1,  D.  27?,  pens.  6-9  Jl;  Ankeb,  cor.  of  Metzel-Str.  and  .Tohannes- 
Str.,  R.IV2  D.  1-172^1.  —  Near  the  rail,  station:  Keichshof,  B  2-4,  D.2U(f; 
Bahnhofs-Hotel,  R.  IV4-2V2,  D.  lV*-2  U(f ;  Hotel  du  Rhin,  R.  IV2-2,  D.  IVa^, 
very  lair. 

Restaurants.  ^Domsehente^  Simeons-Str.,  near  the  Porta  Nigra,  with 
shady  garden,  D.  (1-3  p.m.)  2Ul;  *Zum  Stem  ( Fischer )y  in  the  market;  Schmitz^ 
Fleisch-Str. ;  Kufs^  Keu-Str.  2;  Baur  and  KaUerhof  (rooms  to  let),  both 
in  the  Fleisch-Str.,  good,  with  gardens;  Zvm  Rdmer  (rooms),  Brod-Str.  2, 
D.  IV4  Jf»  —  Beer.  *  Porta  Nigra  (see  above)-,  FranziKhnnery  Fahr-Str.,  with 
garden;  Munchener  Kindly  Simeons-Strasse.  —  Garden  JUstaurant*  on  the 
heights  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle,  see  p.  188.  —  Casino  in  the  Korn- 
markt; Katholischer  BUrgervereiriy  Viehmarkt,  these  two  clubs  to  which 
stranger!^  may  be  introduced  by  members  (good  wine).  Treviris  (Rom.  Cath. 
house  of  call),  Jacobs-Str.  29. 

Baths.  Warm  Baths ,  Brod-Str. ,  and  St.  Martinsbad ,  Zurlauben  (PI. 
B,  2).  River  Baths  at  the  latter  (in  summer)  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Moselle  (PI.  A,  3). 

Oabs.  Per  drive  within  the  town,  including  Amphitheatre  and  Zur- 
laubeny  for^  pers.  60,  2  pers.  60  pf. ;  each  additional  pers.  25  pf.  more.  ~- 
To  the  entrance  of  BellevWy  St.  MatthiaSy  FaUieriy  1  pers.  75  pf.,  each  addit. 
person  26  pf. ;  to  Schneider**  Hof  and  the  Weisshau*  (p.  187),  1  pers.  IVa  •#, 
each  addit.  pers.  U)  pf.  Longer  drives  according  to  bargain.  To  Igel 
(p.  188)  two-horse  carr.  about  b  •#.  —  By  time,  for  each  V*  h^'«»  1-2  pers.  50, 
3-4  pera.  75  pf. 

Tramway  from  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  3)  via  the  Nord-All^e  and 
Simeons-Str  to  the  Market  (PI.  C,  3),  and  thence  by  the  Fleisch-Str.  to  the 
Moselle  Bridge  (PI.  A,  4),  and  by  the  Brod-Str.  t »  the  Neuthor  (PI.  B,  5), 
Lowenbriicken  (see  above),  and  St.  Matthias  (p.  188). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  Fleisch-Str.  75. 

Steamboat  to  CoblenZy  see  R.  26 ;  to  Bemcastel,  see  p.  201. 

Trhves  (435  ft),  Ger.  Triers  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle, 
with  44.000  inhab.  (5000  Protestants),  said  to  be  the  oldest  town  in 
Germany,  belonged  to  the  Civitaa  Treverorum,  or  territory  of  the 
Treveri,  a  tribe  of  Belgic  Gauls  conquered  B.C.  56  by  Caesar.  It  is 
uncertain  whether  there  was  a  settlement  here  in  pre-Roman  times. 
The  Roman  town,  Colonia  Augusta  Treverorum,  was  probably 
founded  by  Augustus,  and  invested  with  the  rank  of  a  colony  by 
Claudius.  In  the  reign  of  Diocletian  Treves  became  the  capital  of 
Bclgica  Prima ,  and  during  the  4th  century  it  was  frequently  the 
residence  of  the  Roman  Emperors.  The  numerous  relics  of  that  age 
in  the  vicinity  are  among  the  finest  on  this  side  of  the  Alps.  On  the 
introduction  of  Christianity  by  Constantine,  Agricius  of  Antioch 
was  (328)  elected  first  Bishop  of  Treves,  and  for  nearly  15  centuries 
the  town  continued  to  be  the  residence  of  the  bishops,  archbishops, 
and  electors,  till  Clemens  Wenceslaus  of  Saxony,  the  last  elector 

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Porta  Nigra.  TREVES.  24.  Route,   183 

(1768-1802;  d.  1812),  transferred  his  residence  to  Coblenz  in  1786. 
On  10th  Aug.,  1794,  the  French  captured  the  town,  and  in  1815 
it  was  ceded  to  Prussia.    The  bishopric  was  re-established  in  1802. 
The  surrounding  vine  -  clad  hills  and  wooded  heights ,  and  the 
rich  plain  in  which  the  town  with  its  red  sandstone  walls  and 
numerous  towers  is  situated,  are  strikingly  picturesque. 
*Trerir  metropolis,  urbs  amoBnissima, 
Qaee  Baccham  recoils,  Baccho  gratissima. 
Da  tais  incolis  vina  fortissima 
Per  dulcor!' 

The  Mabkbt  (PI.  0,  3)  lies  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  The 
*  Rothes  Hans'  (PI.  b),  situated  here,  a  late-Gothic  building  of  the 
15th  cent.,  was  formerly  the  Rathhaus  and  had  an  open  arcade  on  the 
groundfloor.  It  bears  the  inscription :  *Ante  Romam  Treviris  stetit 
annis  MCCC,  referring  to  a  mediaeval  tradition  that  Treves  was 
founded  by  Trebeta,  son  of  the  Assyrian  king  Ninus.  The  building 
was  taken  over  by  the  town  in  1900  and  is  in  process  of  restoration. 
An  ancient  Column  in  the  Platz ,  supposed  to  date  from  958 ,  was 
renewed  in  1723,  and  is  surmounted  with  a  cross  with  the  Lamb  of 
God.  The  Petershrurhnen,  a  beautiful  Renaissance  fountain,  was 
erected  by  Elector  John  of  Schonberg  in  1595.  Behind  it  rises  the 
spire  of  the  St.  Qangolphs-Kirche.  —  In  the  Dietrich- Str.  is  the  so- 
called  Propugnaculum ,  dating  from  the  early  Romanesque  period 
and  said  to  be  the  oldest  domestic  building  in  Germany. 

The  Simeons- Strasse,  leading  out  of  the  market-place  towards 
the  N.,  terminates  in  the  *Porta  Nigra  (PI.  0, 3),  a  well-preserved 
town-gate  with  towers  of  defence,  and  the  finest  of  the  Roman 
structures  at  Treves.  This  magnificent  relic,  dating  from  the  3rd 
or  4th  cent,  of  our  era,  is  115  ft.  long,  75-93  ft.  high,  and  29  ft.  in 
depth.  It  consists  of  three  stories,  with  two  gateways,  23  ft.  in 
height,  and  is  constructed  of  huge  blocks  of  lias  sandstone,  blackened 
with  age  and  fastened  with  iron  braces  instead  of  mortar. 

The  Porta  Nigra  was  a  fortified  city-gate,  the  exterior  of  which  could 
be  closed  by  a  portcnllis  and  defended  by  the  two  towers.  If  the  enemy 
succeeded  in  storming  the  gate  he  found  himself  in  the  'propugnaculum'*, 
a  small  enclosed  court,  secured  on  the  side  next  the  town  by  a  barricade 
and  exposed  to  a  raking  fire  from  all  parts  of  the  gate-house.  At  both 
ends  there  are  still  traces  of  the  junction  of  the  gate  with  the  walls,  and 
at  the  W.  end  is  a  doorway,  which  opened  on  the  ramparts.  A  portion 
of  the  old  Roman  wall  has  been  uncovered  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  gate, 
underneath  the  mediceval  wall.  In  1028^  the  E.  tower  was  occupied  by 
a  Greek  hermit  named  Simeon,  and  on  his  death  the  structure  was  con- 
verted Into  two  churches,  one  above  the  other.  In  1817  all  the  later  ad- 
ditions were  removed  except  the  apse  at  the  E.  end,  and  in  1876  the 
original  Roman  structure  was  thoroughly  disclosed. 

In  the  interior  are  a  number  of  Roman  antiquities,  architectural  frag- 
ments, stone  coffins  (one  containing  a  tall  skeleton),  and  broken  sculptures. 
Admission  daily,  9-11 ;  at  other  times  on  application  to  the  custodian  of  the 
Roman  Palace  (p.  187).    Entrance  on  the  W.  side. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Market  Place  lies  the  Domfrbihof,  a  small 
square  with  a  Statue  of  Emperor  William  J.,  in  bronze,  by  F.  von 
MiUer,  erected  in  1893.  o„.edb,Google 


186  Route  24.  TREVES.  Brovincial  Museum. 

testant  church.  The  imposing  interior,  terminating  in  an  apse  at  the 
N.  end,  is  lighted  hy  a  double  row  of  windows.  The  verger  is  sum- 
moned by  ringing  the  bell  beside  the  guard-honse  in  theConstantinf- 
Platz  (feel.  The  basiUca  is  225  ft.  long,  100  ft.  wide,  and  98  ft.  high. 
The  N.W.  side  up  to  the  lower  row  of  windows,  the  apse,  ar.d  the 
lofty  arch  between  the  nave  and  the  apse  are  all  antiqae.  The  S. 
facade  and  the  £.  side,  on  the  other  hand,  are  almost  entirely  modern. 
The  entrance  for  the  pnblic  was  at  the  8.  end  \  the  two  smaller  entrances 
near  the  apse  were  probably  for  the  use  of  the  judges.  The  interior  was 
richly  decorated  with  painting,  some  relics  of  which  may  be  inspected 
in  the  mnsenm.  Below  the  floor  was  a  hypocaost,  or  he  i  ting-apparatus.  — 
Over  the  altar  is  a  tabernacle  with  four  columns  of  yellow  African  marble, 
presented  to  Frederick  William  IV.  by  the  Khedive  of  Egypt. 

From  the  Oonstantins-Platz  we  reach  the  Ost-Alltfe,  in  which 
the  Museum  lies,  by  passing  the  Palace  Barracks  and  out  through 
the  Mus-Thor. 

The  *Provincial  Xnseum  (PI.  C,  5j,  a  handsome  Renaisssnce 
building  in  red  sandstone,  erected  in  lo85-89,  contains  an  exten- 
siye  and  highly  interesting  collection  of  Roman  and  other  an- 
tiquities, a  number  of  pictures,  and  a  collection  of  art-industrial 
objects.  Open  free  in  summer  on  Sun.  A  Wed.,  11-1,  and  on  other 
days,  at  the  same  hours,  for  a  fee  of  50  pf.;  from  9  to  11  and  2  to  6 
(except  Mon.)  and  in  winter  adm.  is  obtained  by  a  fee  of  75  pf.  to 
the  custodian,  who  lives  in  the  S.  wing.  Short  guide  60  pf. ;  illustrated 
catalogue  by  Dr.  Hettner,  1  ulf  60  pf. 

Ground  Floor.  —  To  the  left,  Booms  I-IV:  *  Roman  Tomb*  from  ilTstt- 
magen^  dating  from  about  100-260  A.  D.  and  depicting  the  ancient  dwelleri 
on  the  Moselle  in  their  costumes  and  their  daily  life.  Many  of  the  sculp- 
tures illustrate  the  culture  of  the  vine  on  the  Moselle. 

Booms  V  and  VI:  Stone  Monuments  from  the  City  of  Trives.  In  Book  V : 
Inscription  from  a  monument  dedicated  to  L.  Caesar^  the  adopted  son  of 
Augustus,  the  oldest  inscription  found  in  the  Rhine  districts.  —  Book  VI: 
Heathen  coffln  with  skeleton  and  sepulchral  objects  of  the  3rd  cent.  A.  J).\ 
Christian  Interiptions .  from  the  cemeteries  of  8t.  Paulin,  St.  Maximin, 
and  St.  Matthias,  bearing  testimony  to  the  spread  of  Christianity  at  Treves 
in  the  4th  and  6th  cent.  \  reproduction  of  a  wooden  coffin  with  Christian 
emblems,  found  in  1883  in  the  church  of  St.  Paulinus  in  the  stone  sarco- 
phagus, which  according  to  tradition  contained  the  remains  of  St.  Pauli- 
nus (d.  about  860).  —  Boom  VII:  Technical  objects  of  Roman  origin.  — 
Boom  VIII:  Most  recent  discoveries. 

Sunk  Floor.  Boom  XI:  iHleetonee  of  A.  D.  121  and  139  from  the  Boman 
road  from  Treves  to  Cologne;  Votive  Mbntanents  from  the  environs  of 
Treves.  Mercury  with  Bfuchue  as  a  child.  —  Boom  XII:  Roman  Tomb  Mon- 
uments  from  the  environs  of  Treves.  —  Room  XIII:  Bomanesque,  Gothic, 
and  later  sculptures. 

First  Floor.  Boom  XIV:  *  Roman  Mosaic^  probably  from  about  A.  D.  300, 
found  during  the  erection  of  the  Museum  (upwards  of  one-third  is  lost), 
representing  Muses  teaching  wise  men,  the  Months  with  their  gods,  the 
Signs  of  the  Zodiac,  and  the  Four  Seasons.  —  Room  XV:  Roman  Antiquities 
found  at  Trivex.  Antique  marble  columns;  'Torso  of  Cupid;  'Torso  of 
Amazon,  based  on  the  same  original  as  the  Mattel  Amazon  in  the  Vatican ; 
torso  of  an  athlete;  smaller  objects  from  the  Boman  Baths,  particularly 
combs  and  hair-pins;  mural  paintings;  mosaics;  statue  of  Jupiter.  — 
Boom  XVI:  Antiquities  found  in  the  Environs  of  Trives.  Mosaics  from 
Boman  villas;  sixty  ^Hermae^  with  Boman  and  Greek  portraits,  popular 
types,  and  heads  of  divinities;  Coins  and  Brontes;  plans  of  Boman  buildings. 
—  Book  XVn :  Bronses.  —  Boom  XVni :  Earthenware  vessels  and  lampg.  — 


Amphitheatre,  TREVES.  24.  RouU.  187 

Boom  XIX:  Roman  Tonibs,  found  mostly  beside  the  Porta  Nigra  and  in  the 
*Nene  Weg\  and  re-erected  as  they  were  found.  —  Boom  XX :  Roman  Drinking 
Cups;  terracottas*,  glass,  rings,  and  cut  stones.  —  Room  XXI:  Pre-Roman 
Antiquities.  —  Boom  XXII:  Frankish  Antiquities  and  a  small  Greek  and 
Egyptian  collection.  —  Boom  XXni.  Collection  of  Coins:  Boman  coins  minted 
at  Treves,  in  chronological  order;  coins  of  the  Electors  of  Treves. 

Boom  XXIV.  In  the  cabinets  in  the  centre  of  the  room :  ivory  carvings; 
Limoges  enamels ;  bronze  dish  of  the  12th  cent,  with  representation  of 
the  Good  Samaritan.  On  the  walls  a  number  of  pictures,  mostly  of  the 
Bhenish  and  Netherlandish  schools  (lively  copies).  —  Boom  XXV  :  Collec- 
tion of  Bhenish  stoneware;  majolica  and  porcelain;  collection  of  glass 
(16-18th  cent.). 

The  *Boiiian  Palace  (PI.  C,  5) ,  entered  from  the  Promenade 
and  also  from  the  Palast-Platz,  lies  at  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  town, 
and  fonns  a  picturesque  group  of  ruins,  part  of  which  is  65  ft.  high. 
In  the  middle  ages  the  building  was  used  alternately  as  a  church  and 
as  a  fortress.  The  rubbish  in  the  interior  accumulated  to  such  an 
extent,  that  one  of  the  windows  was  once  used  as  an  entrance  to  the 
town.  —  Visitors  ring  at  the  entrance. 

The  best-preserved  part  of  the  edifice  is  a  Rectangular  Room^  with 
three  apses,  at  the  S.E.  end,  formerly  lighted  by  two  rows  of  arched 
windows,  and  heated  by  channels  for  hot  air,  many  of  which  are  still 
visible.  To  the  right  and  left  of  this  chamber  stood  two  Towers  y  one 
of  which  is  still  extant  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  ruins  and  of 
the  town  (ascent  by  a  steep  spiral  staircase).  —  At  the  N.W.  end,  where 
the  excavations  are  still  in  progress,  various  circular  and  square  rooms 
and  subterranean  passages  have  been  brought  to  light.  —  The  keeper 
(60  pf.)  has  also  the  key  of  the  Porta  Nigra  (p.  183). 

On  a  rising  ground  about  74  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Palace 
is  the  *Amphitheatre  (PI.  D,  5) ,  locally  known  as  the  Kdskeller, 
situated  among  vineyards.  This  arena,  still  in  excellent  preserv- 
ation, with  a  diameter  from  N.  to  S.  of  76  yds.,  and  from  E.  to 
W.  of  53  yds.,  was  capable  of  accommodating  7-8000  spectators. 
(That  at  Verona  held  20,000  spectators ,  the  Colosseum  at  Rome 
40-50,000.)  The  E.  half  is  built  into  the  rocky  side  of  the  hill,  while 
the  W.  is  raised  to  the  same  level  by  aitiflcial  means.  At  the  N. 
and  S.  ends  are  gateways ,  each  with  three  openings ,  that  in  the 
centre  leading  to  the  arena,  and  those  at  the  sides  to  the  seats  for 
spectators.  There  are  also  two  entrances  for  the  public  on  the  "W. 
side.  The  dens  for  the  wild  beasts  and  the  chambers  for  the  gladi- 
ators are  still  traceable  adjacent  to  the  arena.  The  amphitheatre 
was  probably  built  in  the  reign  of  Trajan  or  Hadrian.  In  306  Con- 
stantine  here  sullied  his  fame  by  causing  several  thousand  Franks, 
with  their  leaders  Ascarich  and  Ragals,  to  be  torn  to  pieces  by 
wild  beasts;  and  in  313,  a  number  of  captive  Bructeri  were  bar- 
barously sacrificed  for  the  amusement  of  the  people.  —  The  Amphi- 
theatre affords  an  excellent  view  of  Treves  by  morning-light. 

Adjoining  the  Kaiser-Strasse  are  the  Boman  Baths  (PI.  A,  5), 
an  imposing  structure  of  the  4th  cent.  A.  D.,  660  ft.  in  length,  ex- 
cavated in  1877-85  (adm.  25  pf. ;  plan  10  pf.).  The  principal  facade 
was  turned  towards  the  N.  The  masonry  above  the  level  of  the 
ground  has  almost  entirely  disappeared,  though  at  the  beginning  of 


188  EouU  24.  TREVES.  St.  Matthew's. 

the  ITtli  cent,  it  was  preserved  np  to  the  second  story.  The  position 
of  the  cold  baths  ffrigidarium),  the  tepidarmmj  and  the  ealdarium, 
the  large  basin  of  warm  water,  the  heating  apparatus,  and  other 
parts  of  the  building  can  still  be  traced. 

Adjacent  is  the  MoBOlle  Bridge  (PI.  A,  4 ;  tramway,  see  p.  182), 
with  eight  arches,  some  of  the  buttresses  of  which  are  of  Roman 
origin.  The  second  and  seventh  buttresses  from  the  town-side  were 
blown  up  by  the  French  in  1689,  and  restored  in  1729.  The  bridge 
(620  ft.  long)  has  recently  been  skilfully  widened  and  levelled.  — 
On  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle  is  the  Local  Station  mentioned  at 
p.  182.  —  The  conspicuous  Column  of  the  Virgin  ('Mariensaule'). 
on  the  hill  (2  M.  from  the  bridge),  commemorates  the  promulga- 
tion of  the  dogma  of  the  immaculate  conception  of  the  Virgin. 

The  best  *View  of  Treves  in  the  afternoon  is  obtained  from  the 
hill  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle  above  the  village  of  Pallien 
(PI.  A,  1),  and  opposite  the  suburb  of  Zurlauben  (ferry;  PI.  B,  1,  2). 
At  the  landing-place  of  the  ferry  is  a  board  indicating  the  way  to 
the  Cafi  Bellevue  (PI.  A,  2).  Beyond  the  Napoleons-Brdcke,  car- 
rying the  Aix-la-Ohapelle  road  over  the  ravine  of  the  Sirzenicher 
Bach,  a  path  ascends  to  the  right  to  Schneider's  Hof  (PI.  A,  1)  and 
the  ♦  Weisshaus  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  with  a  pretty  park  and  a  restaurant 
(cab,  see  p.  182).  About  172  M.  higher  up  is  the  Kockelsberg  (re- 
staurant), commanding  an  admirable  view. 

About  */a  H.  to  the  S.  of  Treves  is  situated  the  venerable  Ohurch  of 
St.  Matthew  (comp.  PI.  B,  6;  tramway,  see  p.  182),  dating  in  its  present 
form  from  the  12th  cent.,  witii  alterations  made  in  the  16th  and  18th  cent., 
and  said  to  contain  the  sarcophagus  of  the  Evangelist  (a  favourite  resort  of 
pilgrims).  Beside  it  is  a  Roman  cemetery.  —  About  *U  ^*  to  the  X.  of  the 
town  is  St.  Panlin  (PI.  D,  2),  with  an  interesting  rococo  church  of  the 
early  part  of  the  18th  cent.,  richly  adorned  with  frescoes.  In  the  vicinity 
is  a  spot  marked  by  a  Cross  where  some  of  the  early  Christians  suffered 
martyrdom  at  the  hands  of  the  Romans.  In  the  crypt  are  their  tombs 
with  their  names  inscribed.  Near  it  is  the  venerable  Abbep  of  St.  Maximin^ 
now  a  barrack  (PI.  D,  3).       

The  Railway  fbom  Tb&tbs  to  Litxbmboxtbo  (fares,  see  p.  180) 
is  the  same  as  that  to  Saarbriickeu  as  far  as  (4^/2  M.)  Karthaus  (see 
p.  182),  the  (seat  of  the  German  custom-house  (p.  180).  Opposite 
the  station  on  the  right  is  an  old  Carthusian  convent,  since  1884 
occupied  by  Franciscan  nuns,  who  have  restored  the  handsome 
baroque  church.  The  train  now  crosses  the  Moselle. 

7  M.  Igel  (Willmerstedt),  an  inconsiderable  village,  contains 
one  of  the  most  interesting  Roman  relics  to  the  N.  of  the  Alps, 
the  celebrated  *Igel  Monument^  popularly  called  the  *Heidenthurm' 
(heathens*  tower),  and  visible  from  the  railway  (to  the  right,  below 
the  church).  The  monument  is  a  square  sandstone  column,  75  ft.  in 
height,  and  I6V2  ft.  broad  at  the  base,  and  was  erected  as  a  funeral 
monument  by  the  rich  mercantile  family  of  Secundini ,  probably 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  third  cent,  after  Christ.  It  bears  appro- 
priate inscriptions ,   some  of  which  are  now  illegible ,   and  also 


NENNIG.  24,  Route.   189 

several  reliefs  of  scenes  of  daily  life  and  mythological  representa- 
tions, such  as  Hylaa  and  the  Nymphs,  Achilles  being  bathed  in  the 
Styx,  Mars  and  Rhea  SyMa,  the  Apotheosis  of  Hercules,  Persens 
and  Andromeda,  and  Hercules  with  the  apples  of  the  Hesperides. 
From  the  church  on  the  hill  behind  the  monument  a  fine  view  is 
enjoyed  of  the  country  around  (best  by  evening -light).  —  Above 
Igel,  which  may  also  be  visited  from  Wasserliesch  (see  below) ,  are 
extensive  gypsum-quarries. 

Near  (91/2  M.)  Waaserbillig  the  line  crosses  the  frontier  of 
Luxembourg ;  scenery  picturesque  j  the  Sauer  (Sure)  here  unites 
with  the  Moselle,  after  having  for  some  distance  formed  the  bound- 
ary between  Prussia  and  Luxembourg.  Near  its  mouth  is  the  priory 
of  Langsur.  From  Wasserbillig  to  Diekirch  (301/2  M.),  railway  in 
2-2^/4  hrs.  via  Echtemachy  see  Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland. 

Near  (10  M.)  Mertert  the  train  quits  the  Moselle  and  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Sure.  15  M.  Wecker;  19  M.  Roodt;  221/2  M.  Miins- 
hach;  241/2  M.  Oetringen,  The  train  then  crosses  the  Pulvermuhlen- 
Thal  by  a  viaduct  275  yds.  long  and  100  ft.  high.  The  station  of 
Luxembourg,  situated  on  the  right  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Piirutse, 
is  connected  with  the  town  by  a  handsome  viaduct. 

32  M.  Luxembonrg  (Hdtels  Brasseur,  de  Cologne^  de  VEurope, 
des  Nations,  de  Luxembourg),  see  Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland. 


The  Railway  fbom  Treves  to  Mbtz  (fares,  etc.,  see  p.  180), 
a  {prolongation  of  that  described  in  R.  25,  ascends  the  valley  of 
the  Moselle  above  Treves.  —  I1/2  M.  Lowenbrucken.  41/2  M.  Kart- 
haus,  the  junction  of  the  Saarbrucken  and  Luxembourg  lines  (see 
pp.  181,  188).  Below  the  bridge  at  Conz  (p.  181)  the  train  crosses 
the  8<iar,  affording  a  view  of  the  pretty  valley  of  that  stream.  8  M. 
Wasserliesch,  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Igel  (see  above) ;  13  M.  Wellen. 
Near  (15  M.)  Nittel  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel.  18  M.  Winche" 
ringen;  23  M.  Palzem.  On  the  right,  close  to  the  Moselle,  the  cha- 
teau of  Thorn;  farther  on,  to  the  left,  the  chateau  of  Buhingen. 

25  M.  Nennig.  The  station  is  at  the  village  of  Wies,  1 M.  from  the 
little  Luxembourg  town  of  Remich  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Moselle, 
and  as  far  from  the  village  of  Nennig  (poor  inn).  In  the  last 
are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  villa,  excavated  in  1852,  contain- 
ing a  remarkably  fine  ^Mosaic  Pavement,  49  ft.  long  and  33  ft. 
broad  (now  protected  by  a  wooden  covering;  fee).  It  is  nearly  as 
large  as  the  Mosaic  of  the  Athletes  in  the  Lateran  at  Rome ,  and 
perhaps  surpasses  that  celebrated  work  in  artistic  execution.  The 
principal  scene  represents  a  combat  of  gladiators,  and  is  surrounded 
by  seven  medallions  with  animals,  fencers,  and  musicians. 

29  M.  Perl,  the  last  Prussian  stetion.  —  32  M.  Sierck  (H6iel  de 
Met%,  very  fairj,  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  1200  inhab.,  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle,  and  cqmmanded  by 

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190   Route  24,  DIEDENHOFEN. 

the  conspicuous  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  Dukes  of  Loiraine.  About 
6  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Schloss  Mensberg^  popularly  known  as  Schlosa 
Marlborough,  from  its  occupation  by  the  great  British  general. 
36  M.  MaUingen;  38 V2  ^*  Konigsmachem. 

43 V2  M.  Diedenhofen,  Fr.  Thionville  (Hdtel  Mehn ;  Post),  a  forti- 
fied town  of  10,000  inhah.,  on  the  Moselle,  is  the  junction  for  Luxem- 
bourg (see  below)  and  of  branch-lines  to  (28  M.)  Teterchen  (p.  174), 
and  via  Hayingen  to  (10  V2M.)  Fentsch,  with  numerous  blast-furnaces. 

Fbou  Dikdknhofbn  to  Luxbmboubg,  2OV2  M  ,  railway  in  Vz-i  iu".  (2  Ulf 
70,  1  Ul?  80,  1  Ul?  20  pf.J.  The  line  crosses  the  Moselle.  Stations  Oro»»-Hei' 
tingen^  Su/tgen,  and  (13  M.)  Bettembourg^  the  first  place  in  the  grand-duchy 
of  Luxembourg;  then  Btrchem  and  (20'/2  ^0  Luxembourg  (p.  189). 

47  M.  Veckingen;  49  M.  Beichersberg  j  51  M.  Hagendingen; 
63  M.  Maizihres,  with  blast-furnaces.  —  69*/2M.  Devant^les-Ponts, 
outside  the  Porte  de  France  of  Metz.  To  the  right,  on  the  hill, 
lies  Fort  Friedrich  Karl  (formerly  St.  Quentin),  and  beside  it  is  a 
monument  to  Bismarck.  The  train  describes  a  wide  curve  round 
the  W.  side  of  the  town,  crosses  the  Mosellle,  and  enters  the  chief 
station  of  (66  M,)  Metz  (p.  174). 


25.  From  Coblenz  to  Trives  by  the  Moselle  and  by 
Eailway. 

Railwat  (69  M.)  in  2-3Vs  hrs.  (fares  9  UT,  6  UT  80,  4  UT  50  pf. :  express 
10  uriO,  7  ur  60,  5  •#  30  pf.).  —  Views  to  the  left. 

Steamboat  (119  M.)  four  times  weekly  in  summer  (May  15th  to  Sept.  30th) 
from  Coblenz  to  Treves  in  2  days,  spending  the  night  at  TrarhtKh.  The 
descent  from  Treves  to  Coblenz  (Mon.,  Wed.,  Thurs.,  A  Sat.)  takes  12-13  hrs. 
Fares  for  the  ascent  9  or  6  Ulf,  descent  lli/s  »#  or  7  Ulf  60  pf.  Comp.  the 
local  time-tables.  The  river  is  sometimes  so  low  that  the  steamboats  have 
to  cease  running.  Restaurants  onboard  the  steamers  (B.  I1/4,  D.  3-4  Uif), 
with  good  wine.  —  The  steamboat-pier  at  Coblenz  lies  between  the  bridges 
over  the  Moselle  i  that  at  Treves  is  near  the  Brticken-Thor  (PI.  A,  4).  There 
are  also  local  steamer  services  between  Coblenz  and  Cochem  and  between 
Bemcastel  and  Treves. 

The  *  Valley  of  the  Moaelle  is  not  unworthy  of  comparison  with  that  of 
the  Rhine.  The  scenery  is  remarkably  picturesque  at  places,  the  wooded 
and  vine -clad  hills  present  a  great  variety  of  form,  and  the  valley  is 
enlivened  with  smiling  villages.  The  finest  portion  is  between  Coblenz  and 
Bemcastel.  The  prevailing  stillness  affords  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  noise 
and  bustle  of  the  Rhine.  Charming  excursions  may  be  made  in  the  wooded 
and  sometimes  rocky  lateral  valleys,  and  magnificent  views  are  afforded  by 
the  tops  of  numerous  hills,  often  crowned  by  picturesque  ruined  castles. 
The  region  watered  by  the  Moselle  is  also  rich  in  political  and  historical 
associations,  extending  back  to  the  time  of  the  Romans ;  and  a  Roman  poet, 
Deeimu*  Magnus  Atuonius  (circa  309-92),  has  celebrated  the  praises  of  this 
river  in  a  poem  entitled  'Mosella'.  The  Moselle  wines  have  long  been 
famous  for  their  delicate  bouquet  (see  p.  xxiii).  The  pedestrian  will  find 
the  valley  admirably  adapted  for  a  walking-tour,  which  is  greatly  facili- 
tated by  numerous  fairly-comfortable  though  small  and  unpretending  inns. 
The  letters  R.B.  and  L.B.  denote  the  right  and  left  banks  with  reference 
to   the  traveller  descending   the  river. 

The  best  roads  for  cyclist?  are  alternately  on  the  right  and  left  banks : 
from  Coblenz  to  Treis  R.B..  then  to  Alf  L.B.,  Bullay  to  Trarbach  E.B., 
Traben  to  Kinheim  L.B.,  Kindel-Bemeastel-Thornich  R.B. ;  from  there  L.B., 


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COBERN.  25.  Route.   191 

in  dry  weather,  along  the  Moselle,   otherwise  via  Second  and  the  Hohe 
Kreuz  Inn  to  Schweich;  thence  R.B.  to  Tr^vea. 

At  certain  steamboat -stations  passengers  are  landed  and  ^embarked 
in  small  boats  (fee  10  pf.). 

CoblenZy  see  p.  105.  The  train  skirts  the  base  of  the  Earthause 
(p.  1101,  and  above  (2  M.)  Moselweis  (Rosschen)  crosses  the  Moselle. 

21/2  M.  Ouls  (steamb.  stat. ;  Zillien),  a  prettily-sitnated  village. 
The  train  traverses  the  orchard-like  district  of  Giils,  skirting  the 
vine-clad  hills,  and  passes  Lay,  a  village  on  the  right  bank. 

5  M.  Winniiigen(steamb.  stat. ;  Schwan^  on  the  river,  with  garden- 
restanrant;  Adler,  both  very  fair),  a  market- town  with  2000  inhab., 
once  belonging  to  the  county  of  Sponheim ,  and  hence  forming, 
like  several  other  places  on  the  Moselle  (Enkirch,  Trarbach,  etc.), 
a  Protestant  'enclave'  in  the  midst  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Elector- 
ate of  Treves.   Wine  is  much  grown  in  thfe  environs. 

Farther  up  the  river  the  left  bank  consists  of  lofty  and  precipi- 
tous rocks,  called  the  Wirminger  and  Cobemer  Vlen^  producing  the 
best  flavoured  wine  of  the  Lower  Moselle.  —  On  the  opposite  (r.) 
bank  lies  Dieblich  (Sauer),  with  a  handsome  church. 

L.B.  (91/2 M.)Cobem (steamb.  stat.;  5imo«w, fair), commanded 
by  two  castles  of  the  Knights  of  Gobern,  the  last  of  whom  was  exe- 
cuted at  Ooblenz  in  1536  as  a  disturber  of  the  public  peace.  The  rail, 
station  lies  above  Cobem,  near  Qondorf  (see  below).  A  steep  foot- 
path ascends  through  the  vineyards  (the  path  with  the  pilgrimage- 
stations  is  longer,  but  easier)  to  the  picturesque  Niederburg.  It  is, 
however,  preferable  to  ascend  direct  to  the  (36  min.)  Oberburg,  fol- 
lowing (20  min.)  the  finger-post  pointing  to  the  right  at  a  bend  in 
the  road  (fine  view  of  the  Niederburg  and  the  valley).  Within  the 
Oberburg^  01  Altenburg,  is  the  *  Chapel  of  St.  Matthias  (key  obtained 
from  J.  Reif,  Scheidergasse  7,  in  the  village),  a  hexagonal  edifice 
measuring  53  ft.  from  angle  to  angle.  It  is  the  most  elegant  work 
of  the  late-Romanesque  style  in  the  Rhineland,  dating  from  1230 
and  probably  inspired  by  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jeru- 
salem, which  had  lately  become  known  through  the  Crusades.  The 
central  portion  rises  above  the  rest,  and  is  borne  by  six  columns.  The 
elaborate  decorations  are  executed  in  a  masterly  style,  and  the 
acoustic  properties  of  the  chapel  are  excellent.  It  was  restored  by 
Emp.  William  II.  in  1894,  and  the  old  painting  has  been  renewed. 

Farther  up,  on  the  same  (1.)  bank,  lies  Gondor/'(Haupt,  R.  1V2-2, 
pens.  372-4  Jf,  very  fair),  vdth  the  Tempelhof,  a  recently  restored 
Gothic  castle,  and  an  old  chateau  of  the  Counts  and  Princes  Von  der 
Leyen,  now  intersected  by  the  railway.  The  village  is  mentioned  as 
early  as  871  under  the  name  of  Condravia,  and  on  account  of  the 
numerous  Roman  and  Prankish  tombs  found  here  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  Roman  harbour  of  Contrua, 

On  the  opposite  bank  lie  Niederfell  (Anker)  and  Ruhr. 

101/2  M.  Lehmen  (steamb.  stat.),  with  a  castellated  manor-house. 
The  river  is  bordered  here  with  precipitous  crags. 


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192   Route  25.  BRODENBAOH.  The  Moselle  from 

R.B.  Oberfell.  —  L.B.  (13  M.)  Cattenes^  at  the  mouth  of  a  ravine 
containing  thirteen  mills. 

R.B.  Aiken  (Sonntag),  an  old  place  with  mediaval  honses  and 
fortifications,  now  comes  suddenly  into  view.  On  the  hill  above  it 
rise  the  towers  of  the  old  castle  of  Thurony  or  Thurant,  built  by 
Count  Palatine  Heinrich  about  1200,  and  a  frequent  object  of 
quarrel  between  the  Counts  Palatine  and  the  Electors  of  Cologne 
and  Treves.  It  was  besieged  by  the  two  Archbishops  in  1246-48, 
when  600,000  gallons  of  wine  are  said  to  have  been  consumed  by 
the  assailants.  —  16  M.  Loef  (Stemburg)  is  the  station  for  — 

R.B.  Brodenbach  (steamb.  stat. ;  Post,  R.  IVr^,  D.  IW^UJf, 
very  fair),  pleasantly  situated  at  the  base  of  lofty  wooded  hills. 

J\xst  above  Brodenbach  is  the  month  of  a  narrow  ravine,  which  ex- 
pands aboat  Vs  M.  from  the  river  and  contains  a  number  of  mills.  Near 
the  first  of  these  a  footpath  diverges  to  the  left  between  two  rocks  and  leads 
past  a  (3  min.)  point  of  view  to  the  (Vz  hr.)  *Shreiibarg,  the  finest  ruin  on 
the  Moselle,  situated  on  an  isolated  peak  (rfimts.).  A  vaulted,  winding 
carriage-way  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  two  towers,  which  command  a 
beautiful  panorama  (unpleasant  stair).  —  From  the  Ehrenburg  to  Boppard^ 
2V2  hrs.  ^  see  p.  118. 

An  overhanging  cliff  is  now  passed  on  the  left  bank,  beyond 
which  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  expands. 

16  M.  Hatienport  (steamb.  stat.)  and  Boes  {Heidget,  R.  &  B.  2  «if ; 
Kranz,  both  very  fair),  two  long  contiguous  villages,  above  which 
rises  an  old  church.  The  railway-station  is  3/^  M.  above  Hatzenport* 

About  3Va  M.  to  the  W.  (diligence  from  Hatzenport  twice  daily  in  1  hr.) 
lies  Kiinster-Kaifeld  (816  ft. ;  Sonne^  Maifelder  Hof,  both  well  spoken  of),  an 
ancient  town  with  1600  inhab.,  from  the  6th  cent,  onwards  the  chief  place 
in  the  Meginovelt^  or  Megingau,  which  extends  hence  to  the  Rhine.  The 
conspicuous  Churchy  formerly  belonging  to  an  abbey,  is  the  successor  of  a 
basilica  of  St.  Martin,  which  existed  here  as  early  as  633.  The  front  with 
its  two  round  towers,  resembling  a  fortress,  and  a  curious  elevated  chapel 
in  the  interior,  perhaps  date  from  the  10th  cent,  (or  the  12th?) ;  the  choir 
and  choir-chapels  are  in  the  transition-style  of  12^^;  while  the  nave,  in 
the  developed  Gothic  style,  was  completed  at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury. —  Carr.  from  Miinster-Maifeld  to  (d  M.)  Schloss  Eltz  (see  below)  and 
back  5  Jff  diligence  to  Mayen  (p.  207)  daily  in  3V4  hrs. 

R.B.  Burgen  (steamb.  stat.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Beyhach-Thal. 
Opposite  rises  the  massive  tower  otBischofsiein^  erected  in  1270.  — 
In  the  Beybach-Thal,  7  M.  farther  up,  is  the  ruin  of  Waldeck. 

191/2  M.  Moselkern  (Burg  Eltz,  very  fair ;  Balmes'),  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Eltz. 

In  the  narrow,  tortuous  valley  of  the  Bits,  4  M.  above  Moselkern,  lies 
Schloss  Eltz,  which  may  also  be  reached  from  Mtinster-Maifeld  (see  above) 
via  Wierschem  in  IV4  hr.,  or  from  Hatzenport  (see  above)  on  foot  via  Lattwg 
in  IV4  hr.,  or  from  Mtiden  (p.  193)  in  1  hr.  —  The  road  from  Moselkern 
to  Bltz  crosses  the  Eltz  several  times.  Pedestrians  pass  by  the  church 
or  below  the  railway -arch  and  ascend  the  left  bank  of  the  Eltz,  crossing  to 
the  (25  min.)  right  bank  a  little  on  this  side  of  the  second  mill  (inn).  Beyond 
the  mill  they  proceed  to  the  left  along  the  garden-fence,  cross  the  mill- 
stream  by  a  small  bridge,  and  follow  the  slope  of  the  hill  to  the  (6  min.) 
road.  In  2  min.  more  they  again  quit  the  road  and  follow  the  footpath 
to  the  left,  which  leads  up  and  down  hill  (divergence  to  the  right  to  be 
avoided),  finally  crossing  to  the  left  bank  and  ascending  to  the  castle. 
Refreshments  may  be  procured  at  the  forester^s,  below  the  castle. 

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Coblem  to  Treves,  COCHEM.  25.  Route,    193 

*Schlos8  Eltz,  an  ancient  residence  of  the  Counts  of  Eltz,  is  most 
picturesquely  situated  upon  a  lofty  rock,  surrounded  by  wooded  hills. 
The  different  parts  of  the  ch&teau  date  from  the  12-16th  cent.,  and  have 
been  to  a  great  extent  restored.  The  rooms  are  furnished  in  the  styles 
of  different  centuries,  and  are  adorned  with  family-portraits,  armour,  and 
weapons.  In  the  Bittersaal  (knights^  hall)  is  a  visitors^  book,  which 
contains  the  autograph  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  (now  Edward  VII.).  Visitors 
may  enter  the  court  at  any  time;  admission  to  the  interior  is  obtained 
on  written  application  to  the  Count  of  Eltz  at  Eltville  (p.  134)  a  week 
beforehand.  —  Opposite  Schloss  Eltz  are  the  ruins  of  Trutzelit^  or  Baldeneltz^ 
erected  by  Archbishop  Baldwin  of  Treves  to  command  the  castle,  with  the 
counts  of  which  he  carried  on  a  protracted  feud. 

2OV2  M.  Muden  (Hofer),  opposite  the  entrance  of  the  pretty 
LiXtzer'Thal, 

23Y2  M.  Garden  (steamb.  stat. ;  Brautr)^  below  which  is  a  cave 
in  which  St.  Castor,  whose  bones  now  repose  at  Coblenz  (see  p.  107), 
is  said  to  have  dwelt  in  the  4th  century.  The  present  Church,  once 
part  of  an  abbey,  was  erected  in  1183-1247  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
one  founded  by  the  saint.  The  interior  contains  several  late- Gothic 
sculptures.  Of  the  picturesque  late-Gothic  Cloisters  nothing  remains 
except  one  walk.  To  the  N.  is  the  Romanesque  Chapter  House.  To 
the  E.  of  the  church,  near  the  railway,  is  the  Tithe  House,  an  inter- 
esting specimen  of  a  Romanesque  secular  building  of  the  12th  cent., 
with  fine  windows;  it  was  restored  in  1894.  The  Burghaus,  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  village,  is  a  Renaissance  structure  of  1562. 

A  marked  path  leads  from  Carden  to  (iVz  M.)  Schloss  Eltz  (see  above). 

R.B.  Tr6is(8teamh.  stat. ;  Wildburg,  well  spoken  of),  with  1600 
inhabitants.  In  the  valley  behind  it  are  the  ruins  of  the  Wilderhhurg 
and  Schloss  Treis.  The  old  church  is  of  the  late-Gothic  period,  the 
new  church  was  built  in  1830.  —  From  Treis  a  road  leads  over  the 
hill  to  (41/2  M.)  Bruttig  (p.  194).  In  the  Flaumbach-Thal  is  the 
ruined  convent  of  Engelport. 

24^2  M.  Pommem,  atthe  mouth  of  the  Pommerbach,  in  the  valley 
of  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  nunjieiy  of  Rosenthal,  founded  in  1170. 
—  271/2  M.  Clotten  (Sehl,  good  wine),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  and 
an  interesting  old  church. 

30  M.  Cochem.  —  Hotels.  "Union,  near  the  landing-stage,  V2  M.  from 
the  station,  R.  1  J(  70-2  UT  70,  B.  80  pf,  D.  21/2,  pens.  51/2-6  Jt;  Schloss- 
HoTjEL,  Schloss-Str.  (goofi  view),  R  &B.  from  2V2,  D.  IV2-2V2,  pens,  from 
iJ(\  Gbbmania,  R.  2-2V«,  D.  from  IV4,  pens,  from  4  J(^  well  spoken 
of;  Stadt  Coblenz.  R.  IV2-2,  B.  »/4,  D.  1V4-2,  pens.  3'/2-4  Jl?;  Stadt  Koln, 
Ravene-S'r.,  R.  IV2-2,  B.  1,  D.2,  pens.  41/2--'^  ^  (with  garden-restaurant); 
Kaisbk,  E.  Ss  B.  fr^^m  2,  pens,  from  2V2  J( ;  H6tel-Restadkant  Kemp,  near 
the  pier  (pens.  4  J().  —  Restaurant  on  the  Knuppchen. 

Motor  Omnibus  between  Cocbem  and  Smhals  (p.  194)  4  times  daily. 
Diligence  to  (8V2  M.)  Eaisersesch  (p.  208)  twice  daily. 

Cochem  (282  ft ;  steamh.  stat.),  a  district-town  with  3600  in- 
hab.,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Ender-Thal,  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
places  on  the  Moselle,  especially  as  seen  from  the  right  bank.  In 
the  pleasure-grounds  by  the  river  Is  a  "War  Monument.  Adjoining 
the  picturesque  Ender-Thor  is  a  timber  house  of  1625. 

The  old  *Ca8tUy  on  the  hill  to  the  S.  (1  M.  from  the  station : 

Baedbkeb's  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  13>OOgle 


194   KouU  i>5.  BEILSTEIN.  The  MoseUc  from 

leached  from  the  pier  via  the  ZoUgasBS  and  Schloss  -  Str.),  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1689,  was  frequently  occupied  by  the 
Archbishops  of  Treves  in  the  14th  and  16th  centuries.  It  was  re- 
stored in  1868-78  for  Here  Raventf  by  the  Berlin  architect  Rasch- 
dorff,  with  the  aid  of  ancient  plans  and  views.  The  principal  tower  is 
adorned  with  a  huge  figure  of  St.  Christopher,  in  mosaic,  by  Salviati. 
Visitors  apply  for  admission  in  the  restaurant  at  the  entrance 
(1  pers.  75  pf.,  a  party  50 pf.  each);  only  a  few  of  the  sumptuously 
decorated  rooms  are  shown  if  the  proprietor  is  in  residence. 

On  the  right  bank,  opposite  Cochem,  lies  Cond  (good  wine  at 
the  Traube) ;  fine  view  from  (^2  ^^0  tli©  'Oonder  Tempelchen'. 

In  the  Emdbr-Thal,  on  a  hill  about  8  M.  from  Oochem,  risee  the  tower 
of  the  Wintuiburg^  the  most  ancient  seat  of  the  Mettemich  family,  destroyed 
by  the  French  in  1689.  The  road  to  Kaiiersesch  (p.  308)  ascends  the  Ender- 
Thal.  A  pleasanter  route  is  to  ascend  viH  Cochem  Castle  to  the  Lucher 
Linde  (view),  go  thence  by  the  Lescher  Hof  to  FoM,  and  return  vi&  the 
Winneburg. 

The  train  now  passes  through  the  Cothtmtt  or  Ellerer  Berg  to  El- 
ler  fsee  below)  by  means  of  the  Emperor  William  Tunnel  (2^/3  M.  long, 
taking  6  min.  to  traverse),  the  excavation  of  which  through  the 
clay-slate  occupied  31/2  years  (1874-77)  and  cost  about  200,000^.; 
it  is  vaulted  throughout. 

The  Moselle  sweeps  round  the  Ellerer  Berg  in  a  winding  curve  of 
more  than  12  M.  in  length,  which  the  steamer  takes  2Vs  hrs.  to  traverse 
in  ascending  and  IVt  hr.  in  descending.  The  banks  here  are  particularly 
picturesque. 

At  8eM  (left  bank),  1  M.  above  Cochem,  a  fine  retrospect  is  enjoyed 
of  Cochem,  its  castle,  and  the  Winneburg.  —  L.B.  Ehemach^  once  a 
priory,  now  a  lunatic  asylum. 

B.  B.  Valtcig.  Picturesque  groups  of  rocks. 

L.B.  Nieder-Emtt  and  Oh«r-Em»t.  Between  them  a  modem  church 
with  two  towers.  Above  the  sharp  bend  which  the  river  makes  here, 
about  3  M.  above  Cochem,  lies  — 

B.  B.  Bruttig  (steamb.  stat.  ■,  Friedrichs,  unpretending),  a  small  town 
with  quaint  mediaeval  houses. 

E.  B.  Fankely  lying  somewhat  inland.  —  L.  B.  Ellent  (Dehren,  very 
fair,  pens.  3^3  Jf)- 

B.B.  Beilstein  (steamb.  stat.;  Lipmann;  Burg  Metternich) .  a  quaint 
little  town  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  rocks,  is  overlooked  by  the  old 
imperial  castle  of  the  same  name,  which  afterwards  belonged  to  the 
Electors  of  Treves,  and  then  to  the  Counts  (now  Princes)  of  Metternich- 
Winneburg',  it  was  destroyed  in  1688. 

L.B.  Poltersdor/.  —  E.B.  Briedem.  —  E.B.  Mumich  (Anker). 

E.B.  Smheim  (steamb.  stat.  \  Schneiders,  very  fair),  with  a  high-lying 
church.     Opposite  lies  — 

L.B.  SenhaU  (Henricbs,  Deis,  both  very  fair);  omnibus  twice  daily  to 
(4M.)  Eller  (p.  195).  Farther  on,  Nehren^  and  the  manor-house  of  Lehmen^ 
with  its  old  tower. 

L.B.  Ediger  (steamb.  stat.;  Friderichs)^  surrounded  with  old  fortifica- 
tions, and  possessing  numerous  medieeval  buildings  and  a  late-Gothic  church. 
There  are  extensive  vineyards  here.  We  now  reach  Eller  (p.  196),  4  M. 
above  Senhals. 


33  M.  EUer  (Friedrichs),  with  old  manor-houses.    Above  it,  on 

'see  below),  while  0 

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the  right  bank,  are  the  ruins  of  Stuben  (see  below),  while  on  the 


CoUem  to  Trlves.  ALF.  26.  Route.   195 

left  bank,  at  the  base  of  the  wooded  Calmond,  in  the  pretty  valley 
of  the  Eller,  is  the  month  of  the  Emperor  William  Tunnel  Qp.  194). 

The  train  crosses  the  Moselle,  passes  through  a  tunnel  (370  yds. 
long),  and  skirts  the  right  bank,  with  a  fine  retrospect  of  the  vine- 
clad  slopes  of  the  Calmond.    34  M.  Neef,  with  an  old  manor-house. 

At  the  centre  of  the  curve  which  the  river  describes  round  the 
Petersherg,  to  the  left,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  the  monastery  of 
Stuben,  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  and  suppressed  in  1788.  Farther 
up,  on  the  left  bank,  Bremm  (Hutter,  unpretending),  with  a  late- 
Gothic  church  and  quaint  mediaeval  houses,  said  to  be  the  first  place 
on  the  middle  Moselle  where  Tines  were  planted.  Then  Aldegund^ 
with  an  old  church  and  a  handsome  modem  one. 

36V2  M.  Bullay  ( Marienhury ,  R.  &  B.  2 Vi-B,  D.  2,  pens.  4-6  Jf, 
fair ;  Vier  Thurmey  similar  charges ;  Rail.  Restaurant^  very  fair),  on 
the  right  bank,  the  station  for  Alf  and  the  baths  of  Bertrich 
(p.  196)  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  also  for  Z«W(p.  19S).  —  Contin- 
uation of  the  railway  to  Treves,  see  p.  197.  Steamboat  journey  from 
Alf  to  Treves,  see  p.  198. 

From  the  Ballay  station  we  may  roach  the  ^Viergeenplatz'  (Four  Lakes 
View)  on  the  KOnig  (iron  finger-post  by  the  roadside  near  the  station)  in 
aboat  Vz  br.  Beautiful  view  of  the  Marienburg  and  the  Moselle  country, 
superior  to  that  from  the  Marienburg  itself.  Descent  in  V2  hr.  to  Merl. 
(Interesting  walk  from  Alf  or  Bullay  to  the  Marienburg,  Kaimt,  Zell,  Merl, 
Konig,  Bullay:  3  hrs  ) 

The  road  to  the  ferry  turns  to  the  right  at  the  station  of  Bullay 
and  then  leads  again  to  the  right  below  the  railway  to  the  village 
of  Bullay  and  the  Alf  ferry.  —  By  following  the  railway  a  little 
farther  and  crossing  the  double  iron  lattice-bridge  (of  which  the 
higher  level  supports  the  railway,  the  lower  the  ordinary  roadway), 
we  reach  the  foot  of  the  Marienburg  ^  which  is  ascended  hence 
by  a  good  footpath  to  the  left  in  20  min.  (path  to  the  right  to  the 
Waldfrieden,  see  below). 

Alf.  —  Hotel*.  Post,  B.  l^A  2»/4,  B.  3/^,  D.  2V2,  pens.  41/2-6  Uf;  Bad 
Bebtbich,  very  fair;  Bdrq  Abaas,  B.  A  B.  2,  D.  IVi-i^i  Jt ;  Sohone  Aus- 
SIGHT,  on  the  Moselle,  unpretending.  —  Pension  Nollen^  4-5  M ;  Pens.  Wald- 
frieden (see  below),  R.  2  Jl,  B.  60  pf.,  D.  iV2-2V2,  pens.  3-5  UT.  —  Diligence 
to  Bertrich  (p.  196)  twice  daily  in  l^A  hr.,  starting  from  the  railway-station 
of  Bullay  (rare  90  pf);  also  Omnibus  .several  times  a  day;  diligence  to 
(131/2  M.)  Lntzerath  (p.  197)  every  morning.  —  Carriage  to  the  Marienburg 
and  back  iJt;  to  Bertrich,  with  one  horse  6  Jt,  two  horses  7  Jt. 

Alff  a  Tillage  with  1300  inhab.,  well  suited  for  a  stay,  lies  at 
the  mouth  of  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Alf^  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Moselle,  opposite  Bullay,  to  which  a  ferry  plies  (carriages 
cross  the  bridge  mentioned  above).  —  The  road  from  Alf  to  the 
Marienburg  (2  M.)  ascends  behind  the  Pens.  Nollen  to  the  Pension 
Waldfrieden  (see  above;  view),  passes  the  view  -  platform  (flue 
panorama)  on  the  Prinzenkopf  (20  pf.),  and  then  follows  the  narrow 
ridge  (fine  view  on  both  sides). 

The  •Marienburg  (377  ft. ;  Restaurant^  very  fair,  pens.  41/2  Jf), 
yviih  the  ruins  of  a  castle  said  to  have  once  existed  here ,  or  pf  the 


196     RquU25,.  BERTRICH.  Thf  Moselle  from 

nunnery  erected  on  the  same  spot  in  1146 ,  is  one  of  the  finest 
points  on  the  Moselle.  The  view  embraces  the  wooded  andTtne-dad 
slopes  of  the  Moselle,  the  smiling  yillages  on  its  banks,  the 
summits  of  the  Hunsriick  and  the  Eifel,  and  two  detached  reaches 
of  the  river,  resembling  lakes. 

Pleasant  walks  may  he  taken  from  the  Marienburg  to  Herl  (p.  198) 
or  over  the  Barl  (935  ft.)  to  Kaimt  (p.  199).  —  As  Alf  lies  at  the  lower 
end  of  a  ciroait  of  T^/a  M.  descpibed  by  the  Moselle,  steamboat-passengers 
on  the  way  up  the  river  nay  quit  the  boat  at  Alf,  ascend  to  the  Marien- 
bnrg,  and  regain  the  steamer  at  Piinderich  (3/4  hr.  in  all).  The  steamer 
takes  IV2  hr.  to  ascend  from  Alf  to  Piinderich,  and  passengers  need  not 
quit  the  Marienbnrg  until  after  the  boat  comes  in  sight  at  Briedel. 

A  ftne  route,  but  one  not  easily  followed  without  a  guide-  descends 
from  the  Marienburg  to  the  Valley  0/  the  Alf  and  Bertrioh  (*/i  hr. ;  see 
below).  From  the  'Schone  Aussichf  on  this  route  a  path  leads  to  the 
chapel  on  the  Better  Halt  (view),  whence  we  may  descend  to  Piinderich 
Station  (p.  197). 

From  Alp  to  Bbrtbich,  5V2  M.  The  road  at  first  ascends  the 
romantic  Valley  of  the  Alf,  between  the  SoUig  and  the  Prinxenkopf, 
and  then,  at  (IV2  M.)  the  'Fabrik  Alf  (now  a  rope-walk"),  ascends 
the  valley  of  the  Uesbach,  At  the  top  of  the  hill  lie  the  ruins  of 
Burg  Arras y  said  to  have  been  built  by  Abp.  Robert  of  Trfeves  in  938 
for  a  charcoal-burner  and  his  two  sons,  who  had  distinguished  them* 
selves  by  their  courage  in  the  destruction  of  a  band  of  Hungarians. 

Bertrich.  —  Hotels.  *Pitz,  connected  with  the  Gurhaus,  B.  2-4,  B.  1, 
D.  3,  pens,  without  S.  5-71/2  jM;   *Adlbr,  R.  2-2V2»  D.  2V4,  pens,  from 

5  j$;  •Dkbi  Beichskronen,  R.  IVs-S,  D.  21/4,  pens.  5-7  j$;  Kdbfdrst, 
B.  IV4-3  Jl,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  21/4,  pens.  6-6  Ul,  well  spoken  of;  Dhein,  R.  11/2-2, 
D.  2,  pens.  5-6  Ul;  Teadbe,  B.  iV4-2,  pens.  4-5  J#;  Villa  Mbduna,  R.  10- 
40  Jf  weekly,  B.  i  jM;  Bomebbad,  pens.  41/2-5  Jt;  ViLhA  Dillbnbubg, 
pens.  41/2-6  Jf;  Hads  Abndt,  pens.  51/2-71/2  Jt ;  Marienhohe,  I1/4  M. 
from  the  village,  pens,  from  4  Jm.  —  Bestanrcmt  Schtoeizerhatu. 

Oarriage  to  Alf  and  Bullay  5,  with  two  horses  6  Uf.  tbere  and  bade 

6  and  8  Ul;  two-horse  carr.  to  Pulverroaar  12,  to  Manderscheid  and  back  24, 
Daun  and  Belvedere  near  Manderscheid  22,  Daun  and  back  24-25  Jf. 

Visitors'  Tax,  1  pers.  9,  a  family  18  Jf. 

Bertrich  (540  ft.),  a  small  watering-place  with  400  inhab., 
delightfully  situated  in  a  secluded  valley,  and  visited  annually  by 
2000  patients ,  may  be  described  as  a  Irind  of  modified  Carlsbad, 
the  waters  of  which  are  specially  efficacious  in  gout,  rheumatism, 
and  nervous,  liver,  and  intestinal  complaints.  The  warm  springs 
(90°  Fahr.)  contain  Glauber's  salts.  Pleasant  walks  have  been  laid 
out  in  all  directions.  On  the  Romerkestel,  an  eminence  where  the 
Roman  relics  now  in  the  garden  of  the  bath -establishment  were 
found,  is  a  small  Protestant  chapel. 

The  road  to  Lutzerath  through  the  valley  of  the  Ues  crosses  that 
stream  about  V2  ^-  ^o^  ^^^  Gnr-Garten.  To  the  left,  beyond  the 
bridge,  is  the  Elfen-Muhle  (restaurant).  Ascending  to  the  left  before 
reachingj^the  mill,|and  after  90  paces  following  the  Ix^wer  path  to 
the  right ,  we  reach  the  "'E&skeller  ('cheese-cellar*),  a  grotto  com- 
posed of  basaltic  columns,  each  formed  of  8  or  9  spheroids,  resembling 
Dutch  cheeses.  Near  it  is  a  WaterfaU,  16  ft.  in  height  (often  dry 

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Cohlenz  to  Treves.         PUNDERICH.  26.  Route.    197 

in  summer),  crossed  by  a  graceful  bridge.  A  basaltic  stream  of  lava 
is  visible  in  several  places  in  the  bed  of  the  Uesbach. 

Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  from  the  Kaskeller  to  the  (1  hr.)  Enters- 
bur  ff;  to  the  (iVs  hr.)  B6delheck  (1585  ft.;  refreshments  at  the  adjacent 
forester^s),  which  commands  an  extensive  panorama,  and  thence  to  the 
(i/t  hr.)  Reinhardsltut ,  on  the  path  leading  from  the  Rodelheck  to  the 
month  of  the  Uesbach  (see  p.  196);  to  (3^/4  H.)  PUnderich  (see  below);  and 
to  (3  M.)  &[>rinffir^ach  (see  below). 

If  we  n)llow  the  road  to  Lutzerath  800  yds.  beyond  the  Elfen-Muhle,  as 
far  as  the  kilometre-stone  9.3,  diverge  here  to  the  right  by  the  old  road, 
ascend  to  (20  min.)  the  second  cross-road,  and  follow  the  footpath  to  the 
left  past  the  Maischquelle^  we  reach  (in  1/4  br.  more)  the  Falkenlei 
(1365  ft.) ,  a  semi-conical  hill ,  the  S.  side  of  which  is  a  precipice  170  ft. 
in  height,  exhibiting  the  geological  formation  of  the  interior.  At  the 
bottom  lie  solid  masses  of  lava ;  at  the  top  scoriee  and  slag.  Numerous 
caves  and  clefts  have  been  formed  in  the  rock,  in  which  the  temperature 
seldom  exceeds  48**  Fahr.  The  rocks  are  thickly  covered  with  yellowish 
red  moss  and  lichens.  The  summit  (shelter-hut)  aflfords  an  extensive  view 
of  the  volcanic  peaks  of  the  Bifel ;  the  highest  are  the  Hohe  Acht  (p.  102), 
the  KiLrburg  (p.  102),  with  a  tower  on  its  summit,  and  the  Hohe  Kelberg 
(2130  ft.) ;  to  the  K. W.  the  prospect  is  circumscribed  by  the  long  isolated 
ridge  of  the  Mosenberg  (p.  209),  a  little  to  the  left  of  which  rises  the 
Verother  Kopf  with  its  ruin  (p.  205).  A  very  steep  path  descends  to  the 
highroad  on  the  side  of  the  hill  opposite  to  that  by  which  we  ascended. 

As  the  starting-point  for  a  Visit  to  the  Eifel  (p.  202),  Bertrich  is 
better  adapted  for  drivers  (carr.,  p.  196)  than  for  walkers,  as  the  first 
part  of  the  route  is  rather  featureless.  From  the  Elfen-Miihle  the  road 
ascends  to  the  left  to  (2^/2  M.)  Hontheim,  and  then  follows  the  ridge  to  the 
right  to  (3  M.)  SirotzhUtch.  From  Strotsbiisch  we  may  follow  the  road  for 
about  2  M.  more  and  then  proceed  to  the  left  via  the  ROmersberg  to  the 
(V»  M.)  Pulvermaar  (p.  209).  —  Walkers  may  deacend  to  the  N.  from  the 
Falkenlei  to  Kenn/us  and  follow  the  highroad  thence  to  (88/4  M.)  Lutzerath 
^Maas,  very  fair),  which  is  about  4V2  M.  from  the  Pulvermaar. 


Railway  fbom  Bull  ay  to  Treves.  Beyond  BuUay  tbe  train 
crosses  tbe  Moselle  by  the  double  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  196,  and 
penetrates  the  Prinzenkopf(^p.  195)  by  a  curved  tunnel,  480  yds. 
in  length,  which  emerges  upon  the  river  above  Punderich  (p.  199). 
The  railway  is  next  carried  along  the  hill  by  an  imposing  viaduct 
with  92  arches,  each  24  ft.  wide.  —  38Y2M.  Pfinderlch,  the  station 
for  the  village  on  the  right  bank,  1 V4M.  farther  down  (p.  199 ;  ferry). 

From  Pukdekich  to  Trabbn,  7M.,  branch-railway  in  Vshr.  (fares  70, 
45  pf.).  1  M.  Reil  (p.  199);  2  M.  Bura  (p.  199);  4»/4  M.  Bnkireh  (p.  199); 
7  M.  Traben-Trarhtush  (p.  199). 

Beyond  Punderich  the  train  quits  the  river,  and  enters  the 
Alfthal  by  means  of  another  tunnel  (530  yds,)  through  the  Reilet 
Hals,    (The  valley  of  the  Moselle  is  regained  at  Schweich,  p.  198.) 

To  the  right  in  the  Alfthal,  half  concealed  by  the  trees,  is  seen 
the  church  of  the  old  canonry  of  Springirsbach^  founded  in  1107, 
but  rebuilt  in  the  Italian  style  of  the  18th  century.  Adjacent  is 
Nlcolay's  Inn  (pens.  3*/2  •^)-  To  the  N.  is  the  beautiful  Kondel- 
wcUd,  traversed  by  a  path  along  the  Signal  to  Bertrich  (p.  196). 
Tbe  line  ascends  the  Alfthal,  past  (42  M.)  Bengel  and  Kinderbeuren 
(Wirz),  and  beyond  a  tunnel  635  yds.  In  length  reaches  — 

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198   Route  25.  ZELL.  The  Moselle  from 

44  M.  Uerzig  (Bahnhof-Hotel),  2  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name 
on  the  Moselle  (p.  200),  to  which  an  omnibus  runs  twice  daily. 

The  train  now  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Lieser. 

From  (471/2 M.)  Wengerohr  a  branch-line  (2^2  M.,  in  10  min.) 
runs  toWittUch  ^Well,  R.  I3/4,  B.  3/^,  D.  2,  pens.  41/2-6  UT; 
^Traube,  R.  lV2-2>  B.  8/4-!,  D.l  1/4-2,  pens.  4-6uir,-  Losen,  similar 
prices),  a  district-town  with  4100  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the 
Lieser.  Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  to  the  Pleiner  Muhle^  Kunowaldy 
Affenberg  (20  min. ;  Restaurant  Philippsburg),  etc.  —  Diligence  to 
Manderscheid,  see  p.  210;  to  Himmerod  &n6.Eisenschmittj  see  p. 212. 

Fbom  Wengekohr  to  Berncastbl,  10  M.,  local  railway  in  */4-l  hr. 
The  train  descends  the  vine  -  clad  valley  of  the  Lieser.  2  M.  Flatten  \ 
5  M.  Siebehbom,  the  station  for  Noviand;  b^/t  M.  Muring.  Near  C^  M.) 
Ueser  it  reaches  the  Moselle,  opposite  MUMheim  (p.  %)i).  9V2  M.  Cues 
(p.  201),  opposite  (10  M.)  Bemcastel  (p.  200). 

The  Lieser  is  crossed.  To  the  right  lie  the  hamlet  of  Biirscheid 
and  the  village  of  Altrichj  to  the  left  the  Haardter  Hofe.  Beyond 
the  watershed  between  the  Lieser  and  the  8alm  we  reach  — 

52  M.  Salmrohr,  II/2M.  from  which  is  the  pilgrimage  -  resort 
Eberards-  Clausen^  an  old  abbey  with  an  interesting  church  (carved 
altar  of  the  second  half  of  the  15th  cent.).  —  57  M.  Hetzerath 
(630  ft. ;  Paltzer). 

59  M.  Fohren.  —  62  M.  Sehweich  (steamb.  stat.;  Denhart), 
1  M.  from  the  station,  on  the  Moselle.  The  train  then  passes  through 
the  tunnel  of  Jssel,  850  yds.  in  length.  —  64  M.  Quint^  with  an 
iron-work  (p.  202).  —  65  M.  Ehrang  (Umbach),  a  station  on  the 
Eifel  railway  (p.  207),  is  also  connected  with  Treves  by  a  branch - 
line  (5  M.)  passing  Biewer  and  PaUien  (p.  188).  The  Moselle  railway 
crosses  the  river  beyond  Ffcdzel,  and  reaches  — 

69  M.  Treves,  see  p.  182. 


The  Moselle  from  Alf  to  Treves. 

The  distance  from  Alf  to  Treves  by  the  river  is  about  62  M. 
The  first  place  passed  by  the  steamboat  after  leaving  Alf  Is  Merl 
(Croff,  well  spoken  of),  on  the  right  bank,  2  M.  above  Bullay  (p.  195). 
At  the  lower  end  of  the  village  rise  the  ^Eisthurm*,  belonging  to 
the  former  fortifications,  and  the  Severinsthurm,  a  clock-tower  of 
the  destroyed  church  of  that  name.  —  R.B.  (l^/i'M.  farther  on) 
Corray^  a  suburb  of  — 

Zell  (steamb.  stat.).  —  Hotels.  Fiek,  with  terrace,  R.  IV2-2V2,  B.  1, 
D.  21/2,  pens.  4-6  Of,  very  fair;  Kaiseehof,  R.  2-2V2,  B.  »/4,  D.  from  l«/4, 
pens,  from  4  J(,  with  garden  on  the  river,  well  spoken  of.  —  Omnibus 
to  Bnllay,  50  pf.  ^  diligence  to  Piinderich. 

ZcW,  a  district-town  with  2700  inhab.,  surrounded  by  remains 
of  old  walls,  presents  an  attractive  picture  and  invites  to  a  prolonged 
stay.  The  interesting  old  Electoral  Chdteau  was  builtin  1543.  Hand- 
some new  Town  Hall,  Fine  view  from  the  HochcolUs  (E.)  and  from 
the  Bummkopf.  —  Opposite  (ferry)  lies  — 

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CohUnz  to  Tt^ves.  TRARBACH.  25.  Route.    199 

L.B.  Kaimt^  whence  a  pictnresqae  path  leads  along  the  base 
of  the  Barl  to  (1  hr.)  the  Marienhurg  (p.  196). 

R.B.  Briedel  (Schneider),  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  S. 
and  W.  sides  of  the  Marienbnrg. 

R.B.  Punderich  (i9ih  stat.,  see  p.  197;  Kallfelz,  unpretending), 
a  pictnresqnely-situated  village.  Opposite  the  steamhoat-pier  is 
the  path  mentioned  at  p.  196,  which  ascends  to  the  Marienbnrg  in 
Yi  hr.  Farther  on,  high  np  on  the  left  bank,  are  the  mouth  of  the 
Prinzenkopf  Tunnel  (^p.  197)  and  the  viaduct  of  the  railway,  which 
then  enters  the  Alfthal  (p.  195)  by  the  Reiler  Tunnel. 

R.B.  Reilkirch,  IV4M.  above  Punderich,  is  the  churchyard  of 
the  village  of  Rett  (railway,  see  p.  197 ;  Nahlbach-Munich),  which 
lies  a  little  higher  up  on  the  opposite  bank.  Beyond  Reil  the  left 
bank  is  very  steep. 

R.B.  Burg. — R.B.  Enkirch  (Anker,  R.  1 1/2-^,  D.  1 V2  .^,  B.  60  pf . ; 
Steflfensberg,  both  fair),  a  large  village ,  named  Ankaracha  in  the 
earliest  documents.    Good  wine  is  raised  on  the  Stephansberg. 

L.B.  Kovenich ,  a  small  group  of  houses ,  built  chiefly  with 
the  ruins  of  Montroyal  (see  below).  —  L.B.  Litzig, 

On  the  top  of  the  lofty  rocks  to  the  left  (R.B.)  lies  Starkenburg, 
with  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  in  which,  about  the  middle  of  the  14th 
cent.,  the  Countess  Laurette  von  Starkenburg  detained  Archbishop 
Baldwin  of  Treves  in  captivity  for  an  attempted  infringement  of 
her  rights,  until  he  paid  a  large  ransom  for  his  liberation.  To  the 
right  rises  the  Trabener  Berg  (892  ft.),  on  the  flat  top  of  which  are 
traces  of  the  fortress  of  Montroyal,  constructed  by  Louis  XIV.  in 
1686,  but  demolished  in  1697  in  pursuance  of  the  Treaty  of 
Ryswyck.  The  hill  commands  a  beautiful  view.  —  At  the  apex 
of  the  curve  which  the  river  makes  round  this  hill  lie  — 

L.B.  Traben  (rail,  station,  see  p.  197)  and  (R.B.)  Trarbach. 

Hotels  (generally  well  spoken  of).  At  Traben:  Eaisbrhof,  at  the 
^ailway-^tation,  B.  &  B.  from  21/2,  D-  2-2V2,  pens,  from  41/2  Ul»  Gekmania, 
plainer.  —  At  Trarbach:  Adolf,  with  veranda  on  the  Moflelle,  B.  &  B.  2V4, 
D.  2,  8.  IV4,  pena.  4V2-6V2  Ul;  Bbllevdk,  B.  A  B.  2V4,  D.  2,  S.  !»/<,  pens. 
i-iyiJK;  Marx,  on  the  road  to  the  Wildbad,  new.  —  Bestaurant.  BHlcken- 
schenke,  on  the  right  bank,  a  quaint  establishment,  with  view-terrace 
^ood  wine).  —  Casino,  at  Trarbach,  good  wine  (introduction  required). 

Trahen  and  Trarbach^  each  with  about  2500  inhab. ,  most  of 
whom  are  Protestants  (comp.  p.  191),  are  connected  by  a  bridge 
(toll  5  pf.)  built  in  1899.  Both  have  a  large  trade  in  wine,  and  the 
number  of  new  buildings  bears  witness  to  their  prosperity.  Nearly 
all  the  old  houses  in  Trarbach  were  destroyed  by  a  fire  in  1857.  — 
On  the  hill  above  Trarbah  (reached  in  20  min.)  is  the  ruin  of  the 
Orafinburg^  built,  according  to  the  legend,  by  Countess  Laurette 
von  Starkenburg  with  the  ransom  of  Archbishop  Baldwin  (see  above;. 

At  Trarbach  opens  the  Kautenbach-Thal,  a  valley  enclosed  by  wooded 
and  rocky  slopes,  in  which  is  the  small  but  well -equipped  Wildbad 
Trarbach  (pens.  5-i6V2  Ul,  with  restaurant),  with  thermal  baths  prescribed 
in  cases  of  gout.      About  IV2  M.  farther  up  is  the   older  Bad  Wildstein 

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200   Route  25.  BERNCASTEL.  The  MoseUe  from 

(Eass^s  Inn,  E.  from  2,  B.  3/4,  I>.  2,  pens,  from  5  Ul),  supplied  from  the 
same  springs.  Omnibus  to  Traben  station.  —  We  may  follow  tbe  valley 
to  the  village  of  Longkamp  and  descend  through  the  Tiefenhach-Thal  (p.  201) 
to  Berncastel  (in  all  31/2  hrs.))  or  we  may  cross  the  hill  from  Trarbach  to 
Berncastel  direct  (3  M.).  Carriage  from  Trarbach  through  the  two  valleys 
to  Berncastel  12  M. 

At  Trarbach  begins  the  district  of  the  'Upper  Moselle',  which 
produces  the  *ZeltlngerSchlo8sberg',  'Berncastel er Doctor',  *Braune- 
berger',  and  other  highly-prized  varieties  of  Moselle  wine. 

L.B.  Rissbach.  —  R.B.  Wolf.  The  ruins  on  the  hill  are  those 
of  a  monastery. 

L.B.  Crdff  (Zur  Ordfinburg,  unpretending)  possesses  an  inter- 
esting half-timbered  house  with  two  oriel-windows. 

L.B.  Kihheim  (Echtemacher  Hof). 

R.B.  Kindel,  —  R.B.  Losenich,  —  R.B.  Erden^  noted  for  its 
wine. 

On  the  left  bank,  below  Uerzig,  is  a  tower  built  into  the  red 
sandstone  rock ,  formerly  a  castle  ,  afterwards  a  hermitage,  known 
as  the  Michaels-Lei  or  Nicolaus-Lei, 

R.B.  Uerzig  (*Fo8tJy  a  place  of  some  importance,  which  once 
possessed  an  independent  jurisdiction.  It  is  2  M.  from  the  station 
mentioned  at  p.  198,  the  road  to  which  first  ascends  somewhat 
steeply  and  then  descends  (diligence  in  V2  hr. ;  omnibus  50  pf.). 

R.B.  Rachtig.  —  L.B.  Machern,  once  a  nunnery. 

R.B.  Zeltingen  (Post;  M.  8troh ;  Neyses)^  celebrated  for  its  wine. 
The  whole  of  the  slopes  from  Rachtig  to  Berncastel  are  covered  with 
vineyards,  the  best  those  on  the  Schlossberg. 

L.B.  Wehlen.  —  R.B.  Oraach  (Velten).  Adjacent  to  the  church 
is  a  former  convent.  The  Martinshof,  or  Josephshof,  a  little  lower 
down,  the  Himmelreieh,  and  the  KirchUi  all  produce  esteemed 
varieties  of  wine. 

R.B.  Berncastel.  —  Hotels.  *Dbbi  Koniob,  well  situated  on  the 
left  bank,  near  the  Cues  Hospital  (p.  201),  new,  B.  &B.  2V2-4,  D.  2V2, 
S.  IV2,  pens,  b-1  M;  Post,  B.  A  B.  IV2-2,  pens.  41/2-5  M-y  BdiascHBR  Kaiser, 
R.  IV2-2,  B.  60  pf.,  pens.  3V2-5  Ji.  —  Burg  Landthut,  restaurant  with  wine 
and  beer;  Motella^  wine-room  at  the  Cues  station. 

Berncastel  (360  ft.),  a  prosperous  town  with  2300  inhab.,  carries 
on  a  large  trade  in  wine  and  offers  one  of  the  most  attractive  pictures 
on  the  Moselle.  The  quaint  old  town  is  for  the  most  part  crowded  into 
a  narrow  slde-valley.  In  the  market-place  are  tbe  RathhauSy  con- 
taining three  ancient  drinking-cups,  and  the  old  Pillory.  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  town,  on  the  river,  are  the  new  District  Offices. 
A  sunny  path  ascends  to  (20  min.)  the  ruined  electoral  castle  of 
Landshutj  now  the  property  of  Emp.  William,  which  commands  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  Moselle  and  of  the  picturesque  valley  of  the 
Tiefenbach  (key  of  the  tower  at  the  hotels ;  20  pf.).  Several  other 
points  of  view  have  recently  been  made  accessible  by  promenades. 
The  wines  known  as  'Bernoasteler  Doctor'  and  *Badstub'  are  much 
prized. 

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CohUnz  to  Treves.  NEUMAGEN.  25.  Route.    201 

The  Tiefenbach-Thal,  through  which  runs  the  road  to  the  Hnnsriick, 
vies  with  the  valley  of  the  Ahr  (p.  97)  in  the  grandeur  of  its  rock-form- 
ations. There  is  a  waterfall  near  a  chapel,  1  M.  from  Berncastel;  and 
from  this  point  we  may  proceed  to  the  right,  through  a  lateral  valley,  to 
(V4  hr.)  Monzdfeld  (view)  and  (1  hr.)  Veldeiu  (see  below).  —  From  Bern- 
castel  to  Trarbach  over  the  hill  the  distance  is  3  M. 

A  LooAL  Steameb  plies  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  Thnrs.,  &,  Sat.  between  Bem- 
castel  and  Treves,  leaving  the  former  in  the  morning,  the  latter  in  the 
afternoon  (fare  3  or  IV2  Ul)*  —  A  railway  along  the  right  bank  is  projected. 

Beincastel  is  connected  by  an  iron  bridge  with  — 

L.B.  Cues,  tbe  birthplace  of  the  learned  Cardinal  Nicolans 
Cusanns  (d.  1464),  who  founded  a  hospital  here  and  bequeathed 
to  it  his  library,  containing  some  valuable  MSS.,  a  number  of 
Codices,  and  rare  old  impressions.  The  hospital  owns  several  of 
the  vineyards  in  the  neighbourhood.  New  Protestant  church.  Cues 
is  the  terminus  of  the  branch-railway  mentioned  at  p.  198. 

R.B.  AndeL  —  L.B.  Lieier  (Mehn ;  Baum),  a  well-built  village 
at  the  mouth  of  the  brook  of  that  name. 

R.B.  Muhlheim  (Fischer,  very  fair,  R.  &  B.  2,  D.  IV2,  pens. 
3^2  •^)>  *  village  of  some  importance,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
picturesque  Veldenz  Valley,  with  Burg  Veldenz  and  the  villages  of 
Veldem  (Bottler)  and  Thai  Veldenz. 

R.B.  Dusemond.  —  R.B.  Neu-Filzen,  —  R.B.  Filzen. 

L.B.  TheBrauneberg,  famous  for  its  wine  (p.  xxiii).  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  Brauneberg,  on  the  hill,  lies  Monzely  below  which, 
on  a  small  headland,  is  Kesten  (Licht,  plain  but  very  fair;  footpath 
in  IVi^r*  *o  Plsport,  see  below).  The  hills  of  Ohligsberg  and  Neu- 
bergy  on  the  other  bank,  also  produce  excellent  wine. 

R.B.  Winterichy  beyond  which  the  rocky  slopes  of  the  Oeierslei 
approach  close  to  the  river. 

L.B.  Minheim^  at  the  apex  of  a  sharp  curve  in  the  river. 

R.B.  Reinsport  (Fuchs).  A  little  inland  lies  Niederemmel, 
destined  to  be  a  station  on  the  new  railway.   —  R.B.  Miistert. 

L.B.  Pisporty  the  ancient  Pingontius  Portus,  has  been  for  cen- 
turies famous  for  its  wine.  Hence  vi^  Clausen  to  the  rail.  stat.  of 
Salmrohr  (p.  198),  51/2  M. 

L.B.  FerreSy  the  Boveriis  of  ancient  charters,  ^/4  M.  above 
Pisport. 

A  little  higher  up  ,  the  Thron.,  a  rapid  stream  abounding  in  fish, 
flows  into  the  Moselle  on  the  left.  The  village  of  Thron  or  Dhron  (Feilen), 
in  its  narrow  valley,  is  noted  for  its  wine  CHofberger'). 

R.B.  Neumagen  (Neumagener  Hof;  Hoffmann) ,  the  Roman  No- 
viomaguSy  where  Constantine  had  a  palace,  mentioned  by  Ausonius. 
Extensive  excavations  made  in  1877-86  near  the  church  (a  build- 
ing of  1190)  showed  that  a  large  and  strong  fortress  was  after- 
wards constructed  on  the  site  of  the  palace  as  a  protection  against 
the  aggression  of  the  Germanic  tribes.  Many  Roman  tombstones  (now 
at  Treves,  p.  186)  were  used  in  the  foundations. 

L.B.  Trittenheiniy  with  a  handsome  church,  the  birthplace  of 
Johann  Trithemius ,  the  historian  (d.  1616). 

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202   Route  26.  VOLCANTO  EIPEL. 

R.B.  Leiwcn,  —  R.B.  Kowerich.  —  L.B.  Cliisserath  (i'raut), 
at  the  month  of  the  Salm,  4^2  M.  from  Hetzerath  (p.  198). 

R.B.  Thomich,  —  R.B.  Detzem  ('ad  decimnm',  i.e.  the  tenth 
Roman  milestone  from  Treves).   Opposite,  — 

L.B.  ErMch,  — L.B.  Schleich.  —  L.B.  Pblich,  where  remains  of 
a  Roman  villa  have  been  excavated.  —  L.B.  Mehring.  an  old  place. 
-—  L.B.  L6r8ch,  —  L.B.  Longen, 

A  little  inland  on  the  right  bank,  between  the  last-named  two 
villages,  on  the  side  of  the  hill ,  lies  Riol ,  the  Rigodulum  of 
Tacitns ,  where  the  Roman  general  Oerealis  conqnered  the  rebel- 
lions Treveri,  and  took  their  leader  Valentinus  prisoner,  A.D.  70. 

R.B.  Longwich  (Sonntag),  prettily  situated.  —  R.B.  Kirsch^ 
nearly  opposite  Schweich  (p.  198). 

L.B.  Between  lasel  and  Ehrang  (p.  198)  is  the  iron-foundry  of 
Quint  ('ad  qnintnm',  i.e,  5  Roman  miles  from  Treves). 

R.B.  Ruwer  (Longen);  in  the  valley  of  the  brook  of  that  name, 
through  which  ascends  the  railway  from  Treves  to  Hermeskeil(S3  M., 
in  21/2  ^rs.;  Hot.  Wagner;  Post),  lie  Oriinhaus  and  Casel^  both 
famed  for  their  wine. 

L.B.  Pfalzel  (Palatiolum),  where  Adela,  daughter  of  King 
Dagobert  I.,  founded  a  nunnery  in  655. 

Treves,  see  p.  182. 


26.  The  Volcanic  Eifel. 

The  Eifel  is  a  bleak  mountainous  district  situated  between  the  Moselle, 
the  Rhine,  and  the  Boer,  about  45  M.  in  length,  and  25  M.  in  breadth.  The 
E.  part  is  called  the  ffohe  Eifel  ^  near  Adenau  and  Kelberg,  and  com- 
prises the  Hohe  Acht  (2410  ft.;  p.  102),  the  Niirburg  (2180  ft.-,  p.  102),  the 
Aremberg  (p.  102),  and  the  Erensberg  (2265  ft.;  p.  205);  the  W.  part  is  the 
Schnei/el  (i.e.  Schnee-Eifel),  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Priim  (p.  205);  and 
the  S.  part  is  the  Vorder  -  Eifel  ^  or  Volcanic  Eifel  ^  extending  as  far  as 
the  Rhine  (Laacher  See,  p.  104),  and  embracing  Gerolstein,  Daun,  Mander- 
scheid  (p.  210),  and  Bertrich  (p.  198).  The  Vorder-Eifel  is  very  pic- 
turesque at  places,  and  is  also  very  interesting  in  a  geological  point  of 
view  owing  to  the  numerous  traces  it  bears  of  former  volcanic  action, . 
such  as  the  streams  of  lava,  slag-hills,  'Maare\  or  extinct  craters  filled  with 
water,  etc.  Gomp.  Dronke-BUppert's  ^Die  EifeV  (Cologne,  1900;  2  M)  and 
Dr.  von  Dechen't  '•  Qeognostischer  Filhrer  dureh  die  VorderdfeV  (2nd  cd.,  1886; 
8  Ul).  A  pleasant  account  of  the  district  is  afforded  by  'In  the  Volcanic 
Eifer,  by  Katharine  and  Gilbert  Macquoid  (illus. ;  1896). 

a.  Bail  way  from  Cologne  to  Treves. 

112  M.  Railway  in  5V4  hrs.  (fares  14  Uff  40,  10  Ul  80,  7  Uff  20  pf.). 

Cologne ,  see  p.  26.  As  far  as  (6^/2  M.)  Kalscheuren  the  line 
follows  the  direction  of  the  Left  Rhenish  Railway  (R.  10);  it  then 
turns  to  the  right,  and  intersects  the  Vorgebirge  (p.  80).  10  M. 
Kierherg;  IS^/^  M.  Liblar,  junction  for  light  railways  to  Euskirchen 
(p.  203)  and  Horrem  (p.  15);  I77.2M.  Weilerswist,  the  station  for 
Vernich:  21  M.  Derkum, 


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MCNSTEREIFEL.  26,  Route,  203 

241/2  M.  Euskirchen  (^600  ft.;  Rheinischer  Hof,  R.  &  B.  3-4, 
D.  21/2  '^f  Traube),  a  town  of  10,200  Inhab.,  with  cloth-factories, 
lies  on  the  Erft.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Cologne  line  with  branches 
to  Duien  and  Bonn. 

Fbom  Edskibohbn  to  Dubsm,  ISVsH.,  railway  in  V4-I  hr.  (fares  2  Jf  10, 

1  Jt 60, 1  Jt  10  pf.).  —  6  M.  ZiUpich  (Kdlner  ffof,  R.  &  B.  21/4-272  Jf),  an  ancient 
town  (2100  inhab.),  the  Roman  Tolbiacum^  where  in  496  the  Alemanni  were 
defeated  by  the  Franks,  in  consequence  of  which  victory  Olovis  became 
a  convert  to  Christianity.  The  handsome  Romanesqne  church  of  8t.  Peter 
dates  from  the  iith  and  i2th  centuries.  —  I8V2  M.  DUren  (see  p.  14). 

Fbom  Edskirohbn  to  Bonn,  21  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  2  .J  80, 

2  Ui(  10,  1  UIT  40  pf.).  —  The  line  crosses  the  Erft.  2  H.  Cuehenheim;  4^/2  M. 
Odendorf.  About  2M.  to  the  S.E.  of  (TVs  M.)  iJAetn&acA  (Wald-H6tel ;  Kauth, 
R.  I-IV4  Jf)  rises  the  Tombergf,  with  a  ruined  castle,  the  round  tower  ot 
which  dates  from  the  18th  or  14th  cent.  (view).  —  lO'/t  M.  Meokenheim 
(Dol/j  Eichen,  both  well  spoken  of),  a  village  with  2000  inhab.,  once  forti- 
lied.  —  21  M.  Bonn^  see  p.  84. 

Fbom  Euskibchen  to  Munstbbbifel,  8V2  M.,  railway  in  'A  hr.  (fares 
90,  60,  30  pf.).  —  Mtlnstereifel  (918  ft.;  SiHdn-and,  R.  &  B.  2V4-2V4,  D.  I3/4, 
S.  iy4,  pens.  SVa-B  Jf;  Post,  both  very  fair),  a  small  town  (2700  inhab.) 
prettily  situated  on  the  Erft,  has  a  late-Romanesque  church  of  the  12th 
cent.,  with  an  older  crypt  and  a  good  monument  of  the  14th  century.  The 
old  walls  and  gates  of  the  town  arepicturesque.  —  About  6  M.  to  the  S.E. 
of  Hunstereifel  (beyond  Rodert)  rises  the  basaltic  MicheUberg  (1880  ft.), 
with  a  pilgrimage- chapel  and  fine  view. 

To  the  right  rises  the  picturesque  old  castle  of  Veynau,  29^/2  M. 
Satzvey;  33  M,  Mechernich  (985  ft. ;  Schwarz),  to  the  left  of  which 
are  extensive  lead-mines  and  foundries,  with  tall  chimneys,  one 
440  ft.  high.   Beyond  a  tunnel,  the  line  steadily  ascends. 

391/2  M.  Call  (1245  ft.  J  Nessgen;  Reinhard),  a  village  with 
forges. 

Fbom  Call  to  Hellbnthal,  10V«  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  —  81/2  M.  GemUnd 
(Bergemann;  Breuer),  at  the  junction  of  the  Urft  and  Olef,  the  waters 
of  which  are  to  be  collected  in  a  reservoir  about  i  H.  higher  up,  in  con- 
nection with  a  new  power-station.  —  5V«  M.  Olef.  —  71/2  M.  Schleiden 
(KOlner  Hof  ^  unpretending),  with  500  inhab.,  two  ancient  churches,  and 
a  modem  ch&teau.  —  10  M.  Blumentfial  (Metz),  a  little  above  which  rise  the 
imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  ot  Reiffertcheid ^  mentioned  as  early  as  975,  the 
ancestral  seat  of  the  Princes  and  Counts  of  Salm-Reifferscheid-Dyck.  — 
lOVs  M.  Hellenthal  (Schinck),  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Olef. 

42  M.  TJrft  (Schneider).  The  old  Premonstratensian  abbey  of 
Stein feld^  founded  in  the  10th  cent,  and  now  a  reformatory,  lies 
1  M.  to  the  S.W.  (not  visible) ;  the  church  is  large  and  well-pre- 
served. —  45  M.  Nettersheim  (1480  ft.),  on  the  Urft. 

491/2  M.  Blankenheim  (1640  ft.),  which  lies  21/2  M.  from  the 
station  (diligence  thrice  daily;  EifelerHof),  is  situated  In  a  narrow 
valley  to  the  E.,  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  ancestral  castle 
of  the  knights  of  Blankenheim,  built  in  the  12th  century.  The 
remains  of  a  large  Roman  villa  were  discovered  here  in  1894.  The 
Ahr  (p.  97)  rises  at  Blankenheim,  where  its  sources  are  enclosed 
by  a  wall. 

The  line  continues  to  ascend,  until  at  (52  M.)  Sehmidtheim 
(1825  ft.) ,  with  an  old  ch&tean  of  Count  Beyssel,  it  crosses  the 
watershed  between  the  Urft  and  the  beautiful  *  Valley  of  the  Kyll, 

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204    Routers.  GEROLSTEIN.  Eifel.      " 

which  it  enters  at  (571/2  M.)  Jiinkeraih  (1420ft. ;  Ereisoh;  Brink- 
mann),  the  station  for  Stadtkyll  (Post),  3  M.  to  the  W.  Junkerath, 
which  possesses  a  large  foundry  and  an  extensive  rninedcastle,  prob- 
ably occupies  the  site  of  the  Roman  station  leorigium.  -^  60  M. 
Lissendorf  (1360  ft.).  The  train  descends,  passing  between  this  point 
and  Treves  over  44  bridges  and  viaducts,  and  through  10  tunnels. 

63  M.  HiUesheim  (1290  ft. ;  Kloep,  Fastn,  both  very  fair),  & 
small  town  with  1200  inhab.,  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  stetion.  The 
(1  M.)  KylLer  Hohe  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

The  Casselburg  (see  below)  may  be  ascended  from  HiUesheim  station  in 
11/4  hr.  We  descend  the  valley  of  the  Kyll  to  (20  min.)  NiederhetUngen 
and  (1/2  hr.)  Betoingen.  We  then  take  the  footpath  to  the  left,  beyond 
the  signal-man's  hut,  and  ascend  to  (V^  br.)  the  top. 

Fbom  Hillbshbih  to  Adenad  by  road,  17 Vs  U.  The  best  plan  is  to 
leave  the  road  at  (3  M.)  Kerpen^  with  a  ruined  castle,  and  proceed  to 
(iVs  M.)  Niederehe  (Schmitz),  with  an  old  convent-church  containing  in- 
teresting monuments.  Thence  by  a  footpath,  along  the  stream ,  to  the 
Nohmr  Muhle^  the  ruin  and  waterfall  of  Dreimilhlen ,  and  AhUtte  (Fasen). 
From  Ahiitte  we  follow  the  valley  of  the  Ahbach  to  (V2  hr.)  the  pictur- 
esque ruin  of  Neu-Blankenheim.  Hence  we  ascend  by  a  path  to  the  right 
(E.)  to  the  (Vs  hr.)  Kohn  road,  follow  this  to  Kirmudscheid^  and  either 
take  the  road  to  the  right  via  Wir/t  and  Bonnerath  or  proceed  viS  Bar- 
toeiUr  (Servatius),  Wiesenscheid ,  and  Niirhurg  to  Adenau  (p.  10 2)  4  or  we 
may  go  vi&  Antweiler  and  Aremberg  to  DUmpelfeld  (p.  102). 

The  most  interesting  part  of  the  line  begins  below  HiUesheim. 
The  valley,  which  is  fertile  and  well-cultivated,  is  enclosed  by  pre- 
cipitous and  partly -wooded  limestone  rocks  of  most  picturesque 
forms.  To  the  right  of  the  village  of  Pelm  (*Bahnhof-H6tel;  Britz; 
station  on  the  Andernach  railway,  1 V4  M.  to  the  N.  E.  of  Gerolstein ; 
see  p.  208),  famed  for  its  *Gerolsteiner  Schlossbrunnen'  waters,  rises 
a  wooded  hill  (1560  ft.)  crowned  with  the  ruined  Casselburg  (ascent 
by  the  road  from  the  Kyll  bridge  in  20-26  min.,  from  the  Hillesheim 
rail,  station  in  1^4  hr.),  once  the  ancestral  castle  of  the  knights  of 
Oastelberg.  The  main  tower,  164  ft.  high,  commands  a  splendid 
view  of  the  Kyllthal  and  the  Eifel.  The  key  is  kept  at  the  forester's 
opposite  (rfmts.). 

The  Papenkaul  (p.  205)  may  be  reached  from  the  forester's  house  in 
40  min.-,  near  it  is  a  stalactite  cavern,  known  as  the  BuohetUoch^  in  which 
some  colossal  fossilised  bones  were  lately  found.  From  the  Papenkaul  we 
descend  to  Gerolstein  in  V4  hr.,  passing  the  lime-tree  mentioned  below. 

The  valley  of  Oees,  to  the  S.E.  of  Pelm,  abounds  in  fossils. 

69  M.  Oerolgtein.  —  Hotels  (V2  M.  from  the  station);  *Post,  with 
veranda,  restaurant,  and  garden;  Heck,  R.  A  B.  2-2V2,  B.  IVz-l'A  Jt^  very 
fair;  Geholstein,  R.  1V2*2V2,  D.  IV2  Uff,  unpretending. 

Railway  Station  (restaurant)  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Kyll. 

Gerolstein  (1230  ft.),  with  1300  inhab.,  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque places  in  the  Eifel,  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  rocky  hill,  and 
commanded  by  a  ruined  castle,  built  by  Gerhard  von  Blankenheim 
in  1115,  and  afterwards  in  the  possession  of  the  Counts  of  Mander- 
scheid.  The  Castle^  reached  from  the  station  in  i/4  hr.,  past  the 
church,  and  then  to  the  left,  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Kyllthal 
and  the  lava-formations  on  the  opposite  side.    The  best  view  of 

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mfeL  PRUM.  26*.  Route.   205 

Gerolstein  itself  is  obtained  from  the  Linden-Strasse,  a  few  hundred 
paces  beyond  a  large  and  -venerable  lime-tree,  on  the  footpath  to  the 
Munter  Ley,,  reached  in  5  min.  from  the  Kyll  bridge  by  crossing 
the  railway.  The  view  from  the  (20  min.)  flag-staff,  higher  up,  is 
more  extensive  but  less  picturesque.  Still  farther  up  is  the  Papen^ 
haul  (1825  ft.),  a  small  extinct  crater,  firom  which  a  narrow  stream 
of  lava  descends  by  a  grassy  valley  on  the  N.  side  into  the  Kyllthal 
(from  the  Papenkaul  to  the  Casselburg  1/2  ^'  ?  ^^^  way-marks). 
The  entire  neighbourhood  of  Gerolstein  is  very  interesting  in  a  geo- 
logical point  of  view.  Besides  the  volcanic  formations,  aqueous  lime- 
stone, containing  innumerable  fossil  shells ,  also  occurs.  The  best 
known  of  the  numerous  ihineral  springs  are  the  Florabrunnen ,  the 
Sprudel,  and  the  Hansabrunnen,  the  water  of  which  is  freely  ex- 
ported. —  The  volcanic  Dietzenley  (1905  ft.),  3  M.  to  the  S.,  near 
Biischeich,  commands  an  extensive  view.  — Railway  from  Gerolstein 
to  Daun  and  Andemach,  see  p.  208. 

Fbom  Gbbolstetn  to  St.  Vith,  36»/a  M.,  by  the  'Hohe -Venn -  Bahn", 
railway  in  2^/4  hrs.  The  chief  intermediate  station  is  (15  M.)  Priim  (1400  ft. ; 
Ooldener  Stern^  R.  IV2,  pens.  4Vs-5  UIT;  Kaiserhof,  pens.  3  JT)^  situated  on  the 
brook  of  that  name,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Schneifel  (p.  20S),  anciently  the  seat 
of  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  by  the  Merovingians  in  7^,  and  once  in  the 
enjoyment  of  political  independence,  but  suppressed  by  the  French  in  1801. 
Pop.  2900.  The  church,  containing;  the  tomb  of  Lothaire  I.  (d.  855),  dates 
from  the  16th  century.  About  5  M.  to  the  N.  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of 
Sehifnecken.  —  27  M  Bleialf.  —  361/*  M.  St.  Vith.  an  old  town  with  2000  in- 
hab.,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Malmedy  and  Aix-la-Chapelle  (aee  p.  13) 
and  of  a  military  railway  to  Vyiingeu  (Luxembourg). 

Walkers  should  choose  the  Old  Boad  fbom  Qebolstbin  to  Daun 
(10  M.),  which  diverges  to  the  rigtht  from  the  new  road  at  the  upper  end 
of  Pehn  (p.  204).  It  ascends  rapidly  and  soon  reaches  its  highest  point  at 
(3  H.)  Kirehweiler  (Schlcemer),  whence  the  Ereiuberg  (2263  ft.)  to  the  K.  and 
%\i&  Scharteberg  (2230  ft.)  to  the  8.,  the  latter  even  more  distinctly  recognis- 
able than  the  former  as  an  extinct  volcano,  may  be  ascended.  The  cir- 
cular crater  is  surrounded  with  blistered  maases  of  slag.  About  100  ft. 
helow  the  summit  begin  the  lava  -  streams  which  descend  towards  the  K. 
8.,  and  E.  The  last  of  these,  although  almost  everywhere  covered  with 
'rapilli'  (or  *lapilli',  small  round  nodules  of  lava)  and  volcanic  sand,  is 
traceable  by  the  occasional  protrusion  of  the  rock  through  its  superficial 
covering,  and  may  be  examined  in  the  quarries  worked  in  it  in  the  di- 
rection of  Steinbom,  where  a  transverse  section  of  two  streams  lying  one 
above  the  other  is  exposed  to  view.  The  lowest  stratum  consists  of 
porous  and  but  slightly  cleft  basaltic  lava  5  above  it  lies  slag,  3-4  ft.  in 
thickness;  next  comes  a  layer  of  rapiUi  and  volcnnic  sand;  and  finally, 
next  the  surface,  basaltic  liva  again.  A  little  farther  to  the  8.  is  the 
yerotJier  Kopf  (2120  ft.) ,  a  hill  of  slag  crowned  with  a  ruined  castle  and 
containing  a  picturesque  grotto.  —  Beyond  Kirehweiler  the  hilly  road  to 
Daun  next  passes  SteinborUy  where  there  is  a  mineral  'spring  (to  the  left 
the  FeUberg,  to  the  right  the  Rimmerich^  two  craters  with  lava -streams), 
and  Ifeunkirclien. 

To  the  right,  beyond  Gerolstein ,  are  the  castle -like  rock  of 
Auburg  and  the  steep  crags  of  (the  Afunter  Ley  {(seejabove).  At 
Lifsingen  are  two  castles,  adjoining  each  other  and  still  occupied.  — 
74  M.  Birresbom  (1205  ft.;  Krone),  a  village  of  1000  Inhab.  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Kyll,  connected  by  a  stone  bridge  with  the  railway 
station  on  the  left  bank.  About  1 V4  M.  above  the  village  is  situated 

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206   Route  20.  KYLLBUUG.  Eifel. 

the  Mineral  Spring  of  Birresbom,  the  strongest  and  best-known  of 
the  chalybeate  springs  of  the  Eifel. 

761/2  M.  MurUnbach  (1050  ft. ;  Krumpen),  a  viUage  (1000  inhab.) 
with  the  rains  of  a  castle  founded  by  the  Merovingians  and  rebuilt 
in  the  17th  century.  —  78  M.  Denabom  (1216  ft),  with  two  ruined 
castles.  The  limestone-rocks  are  now  succeeded  by  variegated  sand- 
stone. The  line  traverses  a  pleasant  wooded  tract,  and  passes  the 
villages  of  Zendscheid  and  UUch  and  the  suppressed  Cistercian  nun- 
nery of  8t,  Thomas,  built  in  1185.  The  line  church  was  erected  in 
the  transition  style  about  1225.  The  train  passes  through  a  tunnel. 

84 V2  M.  Kyllburg.  —  Hotels.  *Eifelee  Hof,  8  mln.  from  station, 
with  veranda,  K.  2-8,  B.  »/<»  !>•  2,  pens.  4V«-6V«  "^t*  Stem,  R.  l-ii/j,  B.  V*^ 
D.  IV2-2.  pens.  4-4V«  J({  Post,  R.  IV2  Jt,  B.  60  pf.  \  QfiaoNUE.  —  Eiftl-Bad 
(on  the  Kneipp  system),  pens.  40-50  JH  weakly. 

KyWfurg  (895  ft.),  another  very  picturesque  place,  with  1100 
inhab.,  lies  on  an  eminence  partly  enclosed  by  the  Kyll.  From  the 
station  we  follow  the  road  as  far  as  the  Kyll  bridge  and  then,  at 
the  tunnel,  the  steep  main  street  to  the  Stem  Inn.  Hence  we  may 
ascend  to  the  right  to  the  Mariensaule  (25  min. ;  key  at  the  xail- 
way-station,  25  pf.),  a  tower  affording  a  fine  view  of  Kyllburg.  On 
a  height  to  the  left,  reached  by  way  of  the  *Eifeler  Hof,  stands  the 
handsome  Gothic  Stiftakirche  (1200  ft.),  built  in  1276,  with  good 
choir  -  stalls ,  interesting  tombstones,  and  stained  glass  of  1534, 
from  designs  after  Durer  (key  kept  at  the  parsonage,  the  last  house 
to  the  right,  opposite  the  old  watch-tower).  The  adjacent  cloisters, 
recently  restored,  and  the  chapter-house,  to  the  E.  of  the  cloisters, 
date  from  the  14th  century.  A  pleasant  promenade  (indicated  by 
a  finger-post  at  the  upper  well,  to  the  left)  leads  round  the  slope  of 
the  hill  for  about  2  M. ;  another,  the  'Ringpfad\  runs  along  above 
the  left  bank  and  is  reached  by  crossing  the  bridge  and  keeping  to 
the  right.  Fine  view  from  the  *"Wilsecker  Linde',  to  the  S.,  also 
roached  by  crossing  the  stream  and  turning  to  the  right. 

On  a  height  on  the  Kyll,  li/s  M.  to  the  W.  of  Kyllburg,  rises  the 
chateau  of  Malherg,  incorporated  with  an  old  castle  and  commanding  a 
fine  view. 

Vi&  Euemchmitt  {V/t  M.  \  diligence)  or  vi&  OUriall,  BeiUnfdd,  and  the 
ifosenberg  to  Handerscheid,  see  p.  210. 

The  train  now  passes  through  a  short  tunnel  and  crosses  the 
Kyll.  The  brook  here  describes  a  circuit,  which  the  railway  cuts  off  by 
means  of  the  Wilseck  Tunnel.  —  88  M.  Erdorf  (785  ft. ;  Weinard) 
is  the  station  for  Bitburg  (4  M.  distant;  diligence  six.  times  daily 
in  1  hr.). 

The  road  to  Bithurg  crosses  the  Kyll.  Immediately  heyond  the  bridge 
a  road  leads  to  the  right  to  (2  M.)  FUetsem  (Leonardp),  near  which,  in 
the  Odrang,  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  villa  with  several  fine  Roman 
mosaic  pavements  (fee  to  the  keeper).  The  Odrang  is  Vt  hr.'s  walk  from 
Erdorf  by  the  path  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Fliessem  road. 

Bitburg  (1008  ft.  i  Poit;  Jnnggebnrlh)  was  the  Bedae  Vicut  of  the  Ro- 
mans, and  a  station  on  their  road  from  Treves  to  Cologne,  Peveral  of  the 
milestones  of  which  have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.    Pop.  2S(X). 

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Eifd.  MAYEN.  '26.  Route.   207 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  picturesque  wooded  *VaU€y  of 
the  Kyll^  bounded  by  sandstone-rocks.  The  brook  now  becomes  na- 
vigable for  rafts.  Tunnels  and  bridges  follow  each  other  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, and  numerous  mills  are  passed.  At  Hiittingen  is  a  picturesque 
waterfall,  16  ft.  high,  but  often  scanty  in  summer.  93  M.  Philipps- 
heim  (660  ft),  the  station  for  (IV2M.3  Dudeldorf,  with  an  old  castle. 
95  M.  Speicher ;  the  village,  with  important  potteries,  lies  on  the  hill, 
11/2  M.  to  the  E.  97  M.  Auto,  with  a  pilgrimage-church,  erected  in 
1708-46.  — 1041/2  M.  Cordel  C480ft.),  with  large  quarries,  where  hun- 
dreds of  flint-axes  have  been  found.  To  the  right  of  the  station  rises 
the  ruined  castle  of  Ramstein,  erected  in  the  14th  century.  —  107  M. 
Ehrang,  the  last  station,  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Kyllthal  with  the 
valley  of  the  Moselle,  and  is  connected  by  a  line  of  rails  with  the 
Quint  (p.  202).  Beyond  Pfalzel^  the  Moselle  is  crossed ;  the  station 
of  Treves  is  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town. 

112  M.  Treves,  see  p.  182. 

b.  Bailway  firom  Andemach  to  Mayen  and  Gerolstein. 

531/1 M.  Railway  in  about  4  hrs.  (fares  bJ(70,3J(  80  pf.). 

From  Andemach  to  (91/2  M.)  iVicdcrmend/y,  see  p.  102.  —  I2V2  M. 
Cottenheim  (Eich;  May).  To  the  right  is  the  Mayener  Bellenherg, 
beyond  which  rises  the  Ettringer  BeUenberg  (see  below). 

141/2  M.  Mayen  (780  ft.;  Kohlhaaa,  in  theMarkt,  R..lV2-'2» 
B.  3/4,  D.  11/2  »^i  Muller'Sy  both  very  fair),  a  town  with  12,000  in- 
hab. ,  possesses  a  late-Gothic  church  and  a  partly-preserved  castle 
(Oenoveva-Burg,  restored  in  1893-94).  To  the  N.  of  the  station  are 
several  lava-quarries,  but  nearer  the  surface  than  those  at  l^ieder- 
mendig,  and  some  of  them  partly  open. 

The  lava-bed  in  which  they  are  worked  is  the  outlet  of  the  ancient 
volcano  of  Ettringer  BeUenberg  (1406  ft.),  IV2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Mayen.  The 
E.  side  of  the  crater  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  fertile  plain  of  the  Mai- 
feld  and  Pellenz  between  Mayen  and  Andemach,  and  of  the  Rhine  Valley. 
A  more  extensive  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  Hochsimmer  (1820  ft.),  ascended 
from  Mayen  in  1V«  hr.,  vi&  8t.  Johann.  —  A  good  road  leads  from  Mayen 
to  the  l^.W.,  through  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Kette,  to  (3  M.)  the  well- 
preserved  turreted  chateau  of  *BUrresheim  y  on  a  hill  partly  surrounded 
by  the  Nette.  It  is  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  12th  cent.,  and 
now  belongs  to  Count  Benesse-Breitbach. 

Diligences  ply  once  a  day  from  Mayen  to  (18 Vs  M. ,  in  4-4^/2  hrs.) 
Adenan,  vii  CUrrenbtrg  and  Virneburg  (Miiller)  y  and  to  (IOV2  M.,  in  2^/2  hrs.) 
Munster-Maifeld  (p.  192). 

The  train  skirts  the  town ,  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Nette  by  a 
viaduct  115 yds. long,  passes  the  station  Mayen-West,  and  then  pen- 
etrates the  watershed  between  the  Nette  and  Elz  by  a  tunnel  525  yds. 
in  length.   A  shorter  tunnel  follows. 

21  M.  Monreal  (980  ft.;  Lunnebach),  charmingly  situated  in 
the  valley  of  the  Elz,  has  two  ruined  castles,  the  Resch  and  Jlfon- 
real.  The  latter,  the  more  important  of  the  two ,  dates  from  1229. 
The  chapel  in  the  cemetery  contains  some  interesting  remains  of 
old  frescoes.  ^         , 

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208   RouU26.  DAUN.  EifeL 

Fine  retrospect  as  we  proceed.  —  26  M.  Vrmerabcuihf  in  the 
SieUbach'Tlua. -— 27  M.  Kaisenesch  (1500  ft.;  Po8t,  very  fair, 
pens.  3  Jf ;  Schwan)  lies  2/3  M.  from  the  station.  In  the  wood,  near 
the  latter,  may  be  distinguished  the  broad  embankment  of  a  Roman 
military  road,  almost  parallel  with  which  are  a  moat  and  rampart, 
extending  across  the  whole  Eifel  district. 

Excellent  slates  (^Clottener  Leien')  are  quarried  at  Mcuimrg  y  Ormers- 
btufiy  and  other  places  to  the  l^.W.  and  W.  of  Kaiserseach. 

FaoM  Eaiseesssch  to  Coghbm  (p.  193) ,  9  M.,  diligence  twice  daily  in 
2  hrs.  (in  the  other  direction  2^/2  hrs.)-  The  road  passes  Landkern^  with 
the  BjnaAl  DreifaUigkeitt-CapeUe  ('Chapel  of  the  Trinity"),  containing  an  an- 
cient colomn,  with  carious  reliefs  of  the  Trinity,  the  CrtiGifixion,  and  the  '  * 
Virgin  with  her  dead  Son.  Farther  on  the  road  joins  the  Ender-Thal  and 
passes  near  the  Winnehurg  (p.  194). 

The  railway  ascends  beyond  the  WoLfsberg  (1786  ft.)  to  (30  M.) 
Laubach'MuUenbaeh  (1 575  ft.),  with  a  view  extending  on  the  S.  W.  over 
the  Vorder-Eifel ,  and  on  the  S.  over  the  hills  of  the  Moselle  to  the 
Hunsrfick.  —  33  M.  Verafeld,  —  36  M-THmen  (1456  ft;  Bahnhofs- 
H6tel,  B.  &  B.  2-2 V2  •^»'  Franzen;  Schlags),  on  the  Ulmener  Maar, 
with  a  mined  castle  and  a  high-lying  church.  —  39^/2  M.  Utzerath. 

From  (42m,)  Darscheid  (Kauth)  a  picturesque  walk  may  betaken 
through  the  Lehwald  and  over  the  Hardt  to  (li/4-lY2hr.)  the  Wein- 
felder  Maar(p.  209;  comp.  the  Map).  The  view  from  the  Hardt 
resembles  that  from  the  Mauseberg. 

The  line  now  descends  along  the  Formerich  (1620  ft),  an  ex- 
tinct crater,  into  the  valley  of  the  Liestr. 

441/2  M.  Daun.  —  Hotels.  ^Schramm,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  town, 
R.  Sl  B.  2-2V2.  B.  IV2-2,  pens.  i-bJi;  *Homme8,  near  the  S.  end  of  the  town, 
similar  prices-,  Dacnbs  Hop,  near  the  station,  R.  &  B.  IVa-S'^,  D.  IV2-2,  pens. 
d\f2Jf.  —  Bathing  House  at  the  Oemiinder  Maar  (p.  209;  key  kept  at  Daun). 

Carriage  to  Manderscheid  or  Lutzerath  .  1(^12  J(.  —  Diligence  twice 
daily  to  (10  H.)  Manderscheid  and  (9V3  M.)  Gillenfeld. 

The  Railway  Station  of  Daun  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  lieser,  the 
town  on  the  right. 

Daun  (1310  ft.),  a  town  with  llOOinhab.,  lies  picturesquely  in 
the  valley  of  the  Lieser y  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  which  is  crowned 
with  the  remains  of  the  old  Schloss  of  the  Counts  of  Daun,  a  cel- 
ebrated family,  several  members  of  which  distinguished  themselves 
in  the  Austrian  service.  The  castle  was  stormed  in  1352  by  Baldwin 
of  Treves  and  William  of  Cologne.  The  building  on  the  hill,  which 
was  formerly  occupied  by  a  bailiff  of  the  Elector  of  Treves,  is  now 
the  chief  forester's  residence.    Several  mineral  springs. 

To  the  S.  of  Daun  rises  the  Wehrbfltch  (1607  ft),  a  lava-hill,  crowned 
with  a  conspicuous  monument  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71.  —  To  the 
W.  of  Daun  is  the  Worth  (1626  ft).  The  Nerother  Kopf^  mentioned  at 
p.  205,  is  4  M.  to  the  N.W. 

The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Lieser  to  (46  M.)  Rengen  and 
reaches  its  highest  point  (1860  ft.)  beyond  (50V2  M.)  Dockujeiler- 
Dreis.  Then  through  a  pretty  valley  to  (53V2  M.)  HokenfeU^  in  a  vol- 
canic basin,  (67  M.)  Pelm,  and  (581/2  M.)  Gerolstein  (see  p.  204). 

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Eifel.  GEMUNDER  MAAR.  26,  Roule,  209 

c.  Walk  from  Daun  to  Kyllbnrg  vi&  Gillenfeld  and  Manderscheid. 

First  Day.  By  the  Daitner  Afaare^  the  Mduseberg,  and  Jfehren  to  the 
Puivennaar^  8  hrs. ;  to  Oillen/eld^  Vi  hr. ;  via  the  Belvedere  to  Manderscheid^ 
2V4  hps.  — r  Skoond  Day.  Over  the  Mosenberff  to  Betten/eld,  iVa  hr. ;  to 
Eiteruehmitt,  i%  hr. ;  thence  to  KyUburg^  TVs  M. 

Our  first  goal  i3  the  three  DaunebMaakb,  or  crater-lakes  of  Daun, 
which  lie  272-4:  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Daun,  in  an  extensive  bed  of 
volcanic  deposits,  consisting  of  scoriae,  rapilli,  and  occasional  strata 
of  volcanic  tufa.  We  follow  the  Manderscheid  road  (from  which, 
*/2  M.  from  Daun ,  a  road  diverges  to  the  left  to  the  church  of 
Weinfeld  and  Schalkenmehren)  to  the  village  of  Qemundtn  (1  M.), 
whick  lies  to  the  right  on  the  Lieser.  A  finger-post  indicates  the 
way  (to  the  left)  to  the  (6  min.)  Gemiinder  Maar  and  the  MSuse- 
herg.  The  ♦Gemunder  Maar  (1335  ft.)  is  the  smallest  of  the  crater- 
lakes  of  Daun.  It  lies  in  a  partly- wooded  hasin,  and  is  ahout  18  acres 
in  area  and  125  ft.  in  depth.  Those  who  do  not  wish  to  descend  to 
the  bank  of  the  lake  proceed  direct  to  the  Mauseberg  (way-post). 
In  10  min.  the  shady  road  emerges  from  the  wood  and  affords  a 
beautiful  ♦Vibw  of  the  Gemiinder  Maar,  with  Daun  and  its  wooded 
hiUs  beyond  it.  We  then  ascend  to  (10  min.  farther)  the  nearly 
barren  summit  of  the  Mauseberg  (1840  ft.),  which  commands  a 
fine  view,  especially  from  the  trigonometrical  signal  on  the  E.  side. 
In  the  foreground  lis  the  solitary  Weinfelder  Maar  (1590  ft.), 
another  of  these  crater-lakes,  42  acres  in  area  and  170  ft.  in  depth, 
and  the  Weinfelder  Kirche,  the  only  relic  of  the  village  of  Weinfeld, 
now  used  as  a  burial-chapel.  (From  the  Mauseberg  back  to  Daun  vi^ 
the  Weinfelder  Kirche,  8/4  hr.)  —  To  the  S.  E.  of  the  Weinfelder 
Maar  lies  the  Schalkenmehrer  Maar  (1380  ft.),  the  third  of  the  lakes 
of  Daun,  55  acres  iti  area,  65  ft.  in  depth,  and  drained  on  the  S. 
side  by  the  Alfbach  (p.  196).  The  bed  of  peat  on  the  E.  side  is 
believed  by  geologists  to  be  the  site  of  a  still  older  crater,  which 
was  afterwards  partly  filled  in  consequence  of  an  eruption  from  the 
crater  now  occupied  by  the  lake. 

A  well-marked  path  (*Lieser-Weg')  leaves  the  Schalkenmehrer  Maar 
on  the  left  for  Trittscheidt  and  follows  the  Lieser  down  to  Manderscheid 
(3-3V«  hrs.). 

By  proceeding  towards  the  E.  across  the  ridge  between  the  two 
Maare,  we  reach  (IV2M.)  the  village  of  lUehxen  (Herbr and- Knodt ; 
Franzen,  both  very  fair),  situated  on  the  highroad  41/2  M.  to  the 
S.  E.  of  Daun  and  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  Darscheid  (p.  208 ;  a  pleasant 
walk  through  the  Lehwald).  —  Near  Steineberg,  about  1^/4  M.  from 
Mehren  and  2  M.  from  Darscheid,  is  the  Ringwally  an  extensive 
prehistoric  burial-ground  commanding  a  fine  view  (best  from  the 
platform  at  the  top). 

We  follow  the  road,  parts  of  which  are  shaded  by  trees,  for  about 
4  M.  farther,  take  the  Gillenfeld  road  to  the  right,  and  diverge  by 
a  footpath  to  the  left  to  the  ^Fnlvermaar  (1350  ft.),  the  most  beau- 
tiful and,  after  the  Laacher  See  (p.  104),  the  largest  of  these  crater- 

Btedbkkh'8  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  ^4.  OOglC 


210  Route  26.  MANDERSCHEID.  Eifel. 

lakes,  95  acres  in  area  and  250  ft.  deep,  situated  in  a  basin  fringed 
with  woods.  The  hills  (ca.  230  ft.)  on  its  banks  consist  almost  en- 
tirely of  volcanic  sand,  which  appears  as  a  black  powder  in  the  water 
of  the  lake.  On  the  S.  side  rises  the  Romersberg  (1565  ft.),  a  con- 
siderable rock  composed  of  slag.  From  this  point  to  Strotzbiisch, 
see  p.  197;  to  Lutzerath,  5  Bf. 

About  1^2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Pulvermaar  lies  the  village  of 
Gillenfeld  (1335  ft. ;  Claaen,  Zillgen^  both  very  fair;  diligence  to 
Daun,  p.  208:  carr.  to  Manderscheid  8  Jf). 

At  Strohn,  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Gillenfeld,  the  valley  of  the  Alf  cuts  into 
the  lava-deposita  of  the  Wartesberg  (1605  ft.),  one  of  the  largest  volcanic 
hills  of  the  Eifel.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  crater,  though  its  form  is  not  easily 
rccogoized  as  such. 

From  Gillbnfbld  to  MANDsascHBiD,  6  M.  After  about  1  M. 
the  road  leads  for  a  short  distance  through  wood,  affording  a  view 
of  the  small  Holzmaar  to  the  right.  Eckfeld  is  passed  2  M.  farther 
oil,  and  then  (1  M.)  Buchholzj  with  the  church  common  to  these 
two  villages.  Near  Buchholz,  beyond  Ho ffmannn's  Inn,  a  footpath  di- 
verges to  the  right,  which  is  joined  10  min.  farther  on  by  another 
path  coming  from  the  church  of  Buchholz.  Here  we  again  turn  to 
the  right  and  after  a  walk  of  10  min.  more  through  trees  reach  the 
^BelvederCf  one  of  the  most  beautiful  points  near  Manderscheid, 
which  affords  a  striking  view  of  the  castles  of  Bfanderscheid  rising 
from  the  vaUey  below,  with  the  Mosenberg  and  other  hills  in  the 
background.  The  stump  of  a  column  from  a  Roman  villa  on  the 
Mosenberg  commemorates  the  visit  of  Frederick  "William  IT.  in 
1833.  —  From  the  Belvedere  we  may  descend  by  a  steep  and 
fatiguing  path  to  the  (12  min.)  Lieser  and  re- ascend  in  12  min.  more 
to  the  saddle  by  the  upper  castle,  near  which  we  enjoy  to  the  left 
a  charming  view  of  the  lower  castle ;  thence  by  the  ridge  to  a  small 
view-temple  and  to  (10  min.)  Manderscheid.  —  Another  path  Is 
indicated  by  a  flnger-post  about  80  yds.  before  we  reach  the  Bel- 
vedere, leading  in  1/4  hr.  to  Nieder -Manderscheid^  in  the  valley  of 
the  Lieser,  where  we  regain  the  highroad.  The  road  crosses  the 
Lieser  (fine  view  from  the  bridge)  and  ascends  to  (^/4-l  M.) 
Manderscheid. 

Feom  Daun  to  Manderscheid,  direct  (10  M. ;  diligence  twice  daily  in 
2V4  hrs.).  Thia  road  passes  above  Qemilnden  (p.  209)  to  Weyersbaeh,  quits 
the  valley  of  the  Lieser^  and  ascends  to  Uedersdorf.  The  lofty  and  im- 
posing masses  of  lava  which  the  road  traverses  between  these  villages  are 
believed  to  owe  their  origin  partly  to  a  volcano  to  the  S.  of  Uedersdorf, 
which  culminates  in  the  Weberley  (1680  ft.),  a  slag-hill  near  the  valley  of  the 
Kleine  Kyll^  and  partly  to  a  volcanic  mountain  (1770  ft.)  rising  towards  the 
N.W.    Halfway  between  Uedersdorf  and  Manderscheid  lies  Bleekhavsen. 

Manderscheid.  —  Hotels.  Zens,  B.  1V8-2,  B.  3/4,  B.  lVs-2,  pens. 
3^/2-5  Jt;  Heid,  R.  a  B.  2-2»/2,  D.  IV4-2,  pens.  4  Jf;  Mullejans,  E.  IV2, 
B.  */a,  D.  2-3,  pens.  4-iy2  J( ,  all  three  fair.  —  Gaskiaob  to  the  Mosen- 
be  g  5,  to  EiscBSchmitt  8,  to  Daun  8,  to  Wittlich  9-10,  Bertrich  15.  GhiUen- 
feld  6,  Kyllburg  14  (via  Himmerod  16),  Gerolstein  vi&  Neroth  il  12  J( 

Diligence  ti)  Daun,  see  p.  208-,  to  (riVa  M.)  Wittlich  (p.  19S)  once  daily 
ill  2»/4  hrs.,  via  Qrou-Litgen  and  Mindtr-Litgen. 


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Eifd.  MOSENBERG.  6,  Route,  211 

Manderscheid  (^1270  ft.),  a  Tillage  of  some  liuportance,  with  860 
inhab.,  lies  on  a  lofty  plain  between  tbe  Lieser  and  the  Kleine 
Kyll.  On  the  S.  E.  side,  In  a  singularly  picturesque  situation,  are 
two  *Castle8,  perched  on  jagged  slate-rocks  rising  precipitously  from 
the  deep  valley  of  the  Lieser,  the  ancient  seat  (first  mentioned 
in  889)  of  the  Counts  of  Manderscheid  who  became  extinct  in  1780. 
The  upper  castle  now  belongs  to  Count  Briihl,  the  lower  one  to  the 
Eifel  Verein.  Manderscheid  is  a  good  halting-place  for  a  day  or 
two.  Fine  yiews  from  the  Conatantinswdldchen  (there  and  back 
3/4  hr.)  and  the  Friedrichsplatz  (there  and  back  25  min.).  To  reach 
the  above-mentioned  Belvedere  (35  min.)  we  take  the  footpath  to 
the  left,  250  paces  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Lieser,  which  leads 
up  from  behind  a  shrine,  and  twice  crosses  the  Buchholz  road, 
after  which  we  follow  this  road  as  far  as  the  wood  and  then  diverge 
to  the  left. 

The  most  interesting  volcanic  mountain  of  the  Eifel  is  the  con- 
spicuous, three-peaked  Mosenbbbg,  1  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Mander- 
scheid. We  first  follow  the  Bettenfeld  road,  which  descends  into 
the  valley  of  the  Kleine  Kyll^  crosses  the  stream  at  the  Heidsmuhle 
(inn),  and  rapidly  re-ascenda.  We  take  a  path  to  the  left  at  the 
second  bend,  which  traverses  fields,  passes  the  marshy  Hinkelimaar, 
and  then  leads  to  the  left  to  the  barren  summit  (shelter-hut  built 
of  slag). 

The  Mosenberg  (1720  ft.)  is  a  long  hill  of  lava  extending  from 
N.  to  S.,  wooded  on  the  E.  side,  but  denuded  by  volcanic  action  on 
the  W.  It  has  four  craters,  the  lava-waUs  of  which  rise  fantastically 
to  a  height  of  50  ft.  The  basalt  and  slag  which  form  the  summit 
have  here  protruded  250  ft.  through  the  grauwacke.  The  N.  crater, 
formerly  filled  with  water,  was  drained  in  1846 ,  and  now  yields 
peat.  The  huge  lava  -  stream  which  has  issued  from  an  opening  in 
the  S.  crater  may  be  traced  as  far  as  the  (8/4  M.)  Homgrdben  (foot- 
path), where  it  reaches  the  Kleine  Kyll,  and  rises  in  perpendicular 
lava-cliffs  100  ft.  in  height.  The  comprehensive  view  extends  as 
far  as  the  HunsrQck  on  the  S.  —  By  following  the  Horngraben  from 
the  Mosenberg  we  may  reach  the  (1  hr.)  Manderscheid  and  Kyll- 
burg  road  near  the  Neumuhle  (see  below). 

On  the  plateau,  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Mosenberg,  lies  the  village  of 
Bettenfeld  (Stad^eld^  clean),  whence  a  road  leads  to  (4Vt  H.  \  footpath 
shorter)  Eisenschmitt  (p.  212)  and  another  (partly  footpath;  marked  in 
bine)  to  (*/4  hr.)  the  Salmthal,  and  so  to  (V4  hr.)  Oberkail  (p.  212). 

About  iVt  X.  to  the  K.  of  the  Xosenberg  lies  the  Mi^rftlder  Maar 
(1015  ft. ;  60  acres  in  extent,  38  ft.  deep),  one  of  the  largest  crater j  of  the 
Eifel,  but  containing  no  water  except  on  one  side.  On  the  W.  bank  is 
the  village  of  MeerfOd. 

Fbom  Mandbrsohbid  to  Kyllbubo,  14  M.  [Walkers  should 
follow  the  path  via  the  Mosenberg  and  Bettenfeld,  which  is  in- 
dicated by  blue  marks  and  from  Bettenfeld  on  leads  through  wood.] 
The  road  soon  descends  Into  the  valley  of  the  Kleine  Kyll,  crosses 
the  rivar,.  and  passes  tha  (2V4  M.)  Neumuhle,  where  the  above- 


212   Route  27.  EMS.  From  Cohlent 

mentioned  path  from  the  Mosenberg  joins  the  road.  Just  beyond 
this  point  the  Fischhach  flows  into  the  Kyll.  The  scenery  of  the 
valley  here  is  pi<'/turesqne  and  imposing.  The  road  then  winds  up 
the  left  bank  of  the  Fischhach,  and  after  II/4  M.  divides,  the  left 
branch  leading  to  Wittlich  (j).  198),  the  right  to  Kyllburg.  The 
latter  leads  through  wood  to  (31/2  M.)  — 

7  M.  Eisenschmitt  (^Wagner-Jung^  very  fair;  Muller,  new),  on 
the  Salm,  —  In  the  valley  of  the  Salm,  1/2  M.  to  the  S. ,  on  the 
road  to  Wittlich,  is  the  cloth-factory  of  Eickelhutte  (Inn,  with 
garden,  pens.  4-5  Jf),  About  1 V4  M.  farther  down  are  the  extensive 
ruins  of  the  Benedictine  abbey  of  Himmerod ,  founded  in  1139  by 
St.  Bernard  of  Clairvaux;  the  Gothic  cloisters  are  the  chief 
remains  (inn). 

From  Eisenschmitt  we  ascend  in  windings,  which  pedestrians 
may  avoid  (steep  path  in  20  min.) ,  to  (l^/j  M.)  Schvjarzenbom 
(Timpen),  0V2  M.  from  Kyllburg.  Farther  on  we  pass  (1  M.) 
Oberkail  (Jabusch),  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  a  church 
erected  in  1787,  and  fragments  of  a  Roman  wall,  which  once 
extended  from  this  vicinity  to  Bitbnrg.  We  reach  (4^2  M.)  Kyllburg 
by  the  bridge  over  the  Kyll  (see  p.  206). 

27.  From  Coblenz  to  Wetzlar. 
Ems  and  the  Valley  of  the  Lahn. 

Comp.  Maps,  p.  112,  916. 

64  M.  Railwat  by  Niederialinstein  to  (lOVa  M.)  Ems  in  VHA  hf.  (fares 
1  Uir  40,  1  ur  10,  70  pf.),  to  WeUlar  in  ^ff^i^lt  hra.  (8  UT  40,  6  UT  90,  4  Ul 
20  pf.;  express  9  UK  40  pf.,  7  Ul,  4  UK  90  pf.).  Nassau,  Sehtmimbwrg,  Um- 
burg,  Weitburg,  and  Wittlar  are  the  most  pictnresqne  points. 

Cohlen%,  see  p.  105.  The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  the  bridge 
mentioned  at  p.  110,  and  passes  through  a  cutting  on  the  landward 
side  of  Horchheim  (comp.  p.  113) 

3  M.  NiederlahxLitein  (p.  113 ;  Railway  Restaurant)^  the  junction 
of  the  railways  from  Ehrenbreitstein  and  to  Wiesbaden  (p.  140). 
Travellers  for  these  lines  change  carriages. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  Allerhelligen-Berg  (p.  113),  crosses  the 
Lahn ,  and  ascends  on  the  left  bank,  where  the  line  from  Ober- 
lahnstein  (p.  114)  is  joined.  Several  iron-works  are  observed.  The 
river  is  provided  with  numerous  locks  to  facilitate  the  navigation 
of  the  barges  which  convey  to  the  Rhine  the  ores  yielded  by  this 
district.  —  6  M.  Friedrichssegen,  the  station  for  the  lead  and  silver 
mines  of  the  same  name,  which  lie  about  1 Y2  M.  to  the  E.  —  8I/2  M. 
Nievem,  with  the  large  Nieverner  Hutte, 

IOY2  ^*  Ems.  —  Hotels  (the  large  ones  generally  open  in  summer 
only^  hotel-onmibases  at  the  station).  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn: 
'^'BoTAL  CcRHADS,  wlth  its  d^pendance  ComtnUsariats-Oebdude,  B.2-10,  B.  iVi, 
D.  31/2,  pens,  from  ly^Jf;  *Hotel  des  Qdatre-Saisons  et  de  l'Edrope,  near 
the  Cnrsaal,  R.  2V2-5,  B.  IVi,  D.  3V2,  pens.  8-11  Uff;  *Hotel  d'Anoleteere, 


y  Google 


y  Google 


to  Weizlar.  KMS.  27.  BouU.   213 

'at  the  lower  end  of  the  promenade,  with  large  garden,  R.  from  3Vzi  B.  IY2, 
D.  31/2,  pens,  from  8  •#;  '^Dabustadtbb  Hof,  near  the  bridge,  R.  21/2-6, 
B.  11/4,  D.  3Y2.  pens.  8  jH;  BdTBL  db  Bussib,  near  the  Wandelbahn,  R.  2-6, 
B.  I74,  D.  31/2,  pens,  from  1  Ji.  —  Prombnadb,  near  the  bridge,  with 
cafd  and  open-air  refltanrant,  R.  2  UIT  20-3  M  70  pf.,  B.  1  UIT,  D.  2  UIT  30  pf., 
pens.  b^/fV/i  Jf^  well  spoken  of;  Bristol,  opposite  the  Vier  Thiirme, 
with  garden,  R.  2V2-5V«,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  6V2-8  Jf;  Stadt  Wibs- 
BADBM,  opposite  the  Wandelhahn,  B.  3-7,  B.  1,  D.  21/4,  pens,  from  6, 
electric  light  1  Jt  per  week;  MfixROPOLE:  Hof  von  Holland,  E.  from  2, 
B.  1,  D.  2,  pens.  5-6  UT;  LOwb,  R.  IVa-S,  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens.  5-7  UIT; 
Wbilbueqbb  Hop  ,  R.  2-2V2,  B.  */*,  D.  1V4-2,  pens.  4V2-6  Jf;  Weisses 
Ross  (see  below),  R.  2-3V2,  B.  I,  D.  2^/4  Jf;  Kaiseehof;  ScnnTZENHOF, 
opposite  the  Vier  Thiirme,  with  its  d^pendance  Rhenania^  R.  2-4,  B.  1, 
D.  2  Ul  30  pf.  —  In  the  lower  part  of  the  town:  HOxbl-Pens.  Soltau,  pens. 
5V2-8  J(;  HdTBL-PBNS.  SoHLOSS  Langbnad,  R.  IV2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2-2>^,  pens. 
5-8  J(.  —  Rhbinischbb  Hof  (good  and  moderate),  in  the  village  of  Ems.  — 
On  the  left  bank  (cooler  than  the  rieht  bank) :  'Roubbbad,  with  a  private 
spring  (p.  2U),  R.  2Vrl6,  B.  IV4,  D.  3V2,  pens,  from  8  J(;  *HdTBL  Gdttbn- 
BBBO,  with  lift  and  «:arden,  R.  2-4V2>  B.  IV4,  D.  31/3,  pen*,  from  8  J(;  Hotel 
DB  Flandbb,  opposite  the  station,  with  garden,  R.  lVs-8<  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens. 
6-7  Jf;  H5tbl  Rotal;  HdTBL-PsNsiox  Schloss  Johanmisbbrg,  D.  2  Ul, 
well  spoken  of.  —  HdTEL-RBSTAOBANT  RoTTMANNSHdHB  (p.  215),  prettily 
situated  halfway  up  the  Malberg,  with  view. 

Private  Hotels.  On  the  right  bank:  *Vibb  Thdrmb  (p.  215),  in 
the  grounds  of  the  Curhaus,  with  lift,  R.  from  2»/2,  B.  11/4,  D.  3,  pens, 
from  7Vs  Jf-  On  the  left  bank :  'Villa  Bella  Riva,  with  its  dependance 
Villa  Petit  Blithe,  near  the  Eaiser-Briicke.  R.  272-4,  B.  iV4,  D.  31/2,  pens. 
7V2-10Uir.  —  There  are  also  numerous  Lodginq  Houses,  most  of  which  also 
receive  passing  travellers.  Some  of  them  are  very  comfortably  fitted  up. 
The  more  remote  houses  are  of  course  the  least  expensive.  Breakfast 
and  tea  are  provided  at  all  of  these,   but  dinner  more  rarely. 

Bestanrants  and  Oafds.  Curhaus^  with  table  d'hdte,  and  Cursaal,  both 
of  the  first  class ;  Villa  Beriot^  with  a  garden,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn ; 
Kaiser-Ca/4  and  Cc^4  Ziepert^  both  also  confectioners ;  Alemannia^  these  three 
near  the  station ;  also  at  all  the  hotels.  Bohen-ilalberg  Restaurant  (p.  215)  -, 
Sehweiserhdmehtn,  on  the  slope  of  the  Malberg  (p.  215);  Jungfemhdhe^ 
opposite  the  Baderlei  (p.  215);  Silberau^  at  the  end  of  the  Eonig-Wilhelms- 
All^e ;  Lindenbaeh  (p.  215),  1 1/4  M.  from  the  Cursaal.  —  Wine :  Goldmes 
Fau^  opposite  the  Cursaal;  Old  German  Wine  JSoom,  opposite  the  Vier 
Thfirme.  —  Bear;  Xtftr«,  Wei8*e$  Rots,  Ooldenes  Fast,  Stadt  Wiesbaden,  Ale- 
mannia^  Weilburger  Hof  (for  all  these,  see  above);  Villa  St.  George^  Lahu- 
8tr.  36,  with  garden,  D.  lV*-2  Ji. 

Oabs.  Drive  within  the  precincts  of  the  town,  one-horse  cab,  70  pf., 
two-horse  cab,  1  UIT;  per  hr.  3  or  4V*  Jt;  to  Eloster  Arnstein  and  back, 
IOV2  or  15  JH ;  to  Kemmenau  and  back  7V2  or  11  Jl;  to  Ober-Lahnstein 
7Vs  or  11,  there  and  back  9Vs  or  14.  to  Arenberg  and  back  10  or  15,  to 
Nassau  and  back  6V2  or  10  •#.    Gabs  drawn  by  mules  or  ponies  are  cheaper. 

Wire-rope  Bailway  to  the  top  of  the  Malberg  (p.  215),  starting  near  the 
Eaiser-Briicke,  in  8  min.  (fare  80,  down  50  pf.,  return-ticket  1  UIT,  sub- 
scription for  a  month  5  M)\  trains  almost  half-hourly. 

Visitors'  Tax,  after  a  stav  of  7  days,  for  1  pers.  18  M^  each  addit. 
member  of  the  same  family  9  jM.  Day-ticket,  admitting  to  the  Cursaal 
and  the  afternoon  and  evening  concerts,  60  pi.,  or,  on  special  occasions, 
i  jH.  —  The  charges  for  baths  vary  in  the  different  houses  from  1  Ji 
to  3  •#.  —  For  drinking  the  waters  at  the  royal  springs  a  ticket  ('Brunnen- 
karte*;  6  UIQ  is  necessary. 

Music  7  to  8.30  a.m.,  the  hours  during  which  the  waters  are  drunk; 
4  to  6.30  p.m.  in  the  public  grounds;  and  8  to  9.30  p.m.  in  the  Cnrsaal.  At 
the  latter  symphony-concerts  are  also  given.  —  Theatre^  in  the  Hot.  HLHto- 
pole  (see  above).  r^  1 

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214   Route  27.  EMS.  From  CohUnt 

Post  and  T«l«ir'<^pl^  Offictf  Romer-9tr.  24,  near  the  Wandelbahn. 

Booksellers.  Kirchberger^  Gntben-Sir.  7,  near  the  Curhaus  (also  moDey- 
changer);  Pftfftr^  Lahn-Str.  33. 

English  Chardh  Servioe  in  i^^  E%gliihCkwrch  (PI.  1),  on  the  left  bank, 
at  8  a.in.,  11  a.in.,  and  5.30  p.m. 

EfjM  (260  ft.)  was  known  to  the  Romans,  but  is  mentioned  for 
the  first  time  as  a  warm  bath  in  a  document  of  1172.  It  is  now 
visited  annually  by  about  12,000  patients,  while  in  1823  the  number 
was  1200  only.  The  height  of  the  season  is  from  the  middle  of  July 
to  the  end  of  August.  The  town  (6500  inhab.)  is  prettily  situated 
on  both  banks  of  the  Lahn  In  a  narrow  valley,  enclosed  by  wooded 
and  vine  -  clad  rocky  heights.  It  consists  of  a  street  of  lodging- 
houses  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the  original  ^Bad  Ema^;  of  a 
new  quarter  on  the  left  bank,  named  ^Spieas-Ems',  with  numerous 
handsome  yillas  at  the  base  of  the  Malberg ;  and  of  ^Daf  Em8\  or 
the  old  village,  at  the  lower  end  of  'Bad  Ems*.  The  English  Church 
(services,  see  above)  is  on  the  left  bank.  The  river  is  spanned  by 
four  bridges. 

The  Gursaal,  the  Gurhaus,  and  the  Cub-Ga&tbn  adjoining  them 
form  the  great  centre  of  attraction  to  visitors,  the  pleasure-grounds 
of  the  latter  being  generally  thronged  with  a  fashionable  crowd  while 
the  band  plays  in  the  afternoon. 

The  Eoyal  Cnrhaus  (PI.  6),  erected  at  the  end  of  the  18th  century, 
and  frequently  enlarged  since  then,  contains  the  most  important 
$;prings  and  about  60  baths,  the  best  of  which  are  on  the  first  floor. 
In  the  arcades,  which  were  extended  in  1&54,  are  the  springs  used 
for  drinking :  the  Kesselbrurinen  (115**Fahr.),  in  the  upper  arcade, 
and  the  Krdhnchen  (95-97®),  the  Fiirstenbrunnen  (102-104**),  and 
(the  Kaiserbrunnen  83**;  the  pleasantest  to  drink)  in  the  lower.  The 
waters  are  chiefly  drunk  between  6  and  8  a.m.  —  The  so-called 
Kdnig-Wilhelms-Felsen-QuelUn  (viz.  Victoria- Quelle,  Augusta- 
Quelle,  Eisen  -  Quelle,  and  Wilhelms- Quelle),  four  springs  dis- 
covered In  1865-67  in  the  court  of  the  Nasaauer  Hof^nd.  purchased  by 
government  in  1902,  are  used  both  internally  and  externally.  The 
bath-house  in  connection  with  them  is  joined  by  covered  passages 
with  the HdleldeaQuatre'SaisonsetdeV Europe.  The\)a.th-ho\iae Prince 
of  Wales  ^  Romerbad  also  possesses  springs  of  its  own  (112®Fahr.). 
The  chief  ingredients  of  the  water,  which  is  most  beneficial  In  female 
and  pulmonary  complaints,  are  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  chloride  of 
sodium. 

The  Cnrsaal  (PI.  7),  situated  in  the  Cur-Garten  and  erected  in 
1839,  is  connected  with  the  Gurhaus  by  means  of  a  tasteful  iron 
Colonnade ,  In  which  is  a  tempting  bazaar.  The  Gursaal  contains 
several  magnificent  saloons,  a  reading-room,  a  restaurant,  and  a  caf^, 
which  last ,  with  its  numerous  tables  in  the  gardens  adjoining, 
attracts  crowds  of  after-dinner  loungers.  Music  in  the  evening. 
Near  the  pavilion   of  the  band ,    at   thfe   upper  and   of  the  Cur- 

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to  WeizlaTf  EMS.  27.  Route.    215 

Garten,  a  marble  slab  iu  the  ground  indicates  the  spot,  where,  on 
13tli  July,  1870,  King  WiUiam  ordered  his  adjutant  Count  Lehn- 
dorf  to  give  his  memorable  answer  to  the  Importunate  French  am- 
bassador Benedetti.  A  covered  iron  bridge  connects  this  bank  of  the 
Lahn  with  the  new  bath-house  (see  below). 

In  the  shady  grounds  at  the  back  of  the  Cursaal  is  the  Wandel- 
6oA»,  or  covered  promenade  for  the  use  of  visitors  in  wet  weather. 
A  marble  statue  of  Emp. .  WiUiam  /.,  by  Otto,  was  erected  here  in 
1893.  On  the  Lahn,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  park,  is  the  bath-house 
of  the  Vier  Thurme  {Four  Towers;  PI.  12),  built  at  the  beginning  of 
the  18th  century.  Adjacent  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  4). 
Between  the  last  two  buildings  the  Kaiser-Brucke  crosses  the  Lahn. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn ,  near  the  Gitter-Briicke,  is  the 
New  Bath  Hoiuie  (Neue  Badhaus;  PI.  8),  with  baths  supplied  from 
the  copious  Neue  Quelle ,  or  New  Sprir^g ,  which  was  enclosed  in 
1850,  the  warmest  (135-137®)  of  all  the  waters  of  Ems.  On  the 
bill  above  the  railway  rises  the  new  Romanesque  Kaiser- Wilhelm- 
Kirche.  —  From  this  point  the  shady  Kbnig-  Wilhelms-Allee  descends 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  passing  the  Russiari  Church  (PI.  6) 
and  the  Kaiser- Briicke  (see  above),  to  the  SUberau  (restaurant,  see 
p.  213),  where  the  Lahn  is  crossed  by  Remys  Brucke^  the  lowest 
of  the  four  bridges  of  Ems. 

The  so-called  'Villen-Promenade'  is  more  attractive.  Beginning 
at  the  New  Bath  House,  it  crosses  the  railway  near  the  station  of 
the  wire- rope  railway  (see  below),  then  passes  the  H6tel  Bella  Riva 
and  leads  through  wood  to  the  open-air  restaurant  of  Lindenbach 
(above  the  station  of  that  name)  and  to  the  (^/^hr.) Rottmannshohe 
(hotel-restaurant,  see  p.  213). 

Near  the  Kaiser-Brftcke  is  the  station  of  the  Wire-Rope  Railway 

(p.  213)  to  the  top  of  the  wooded  Malberg  (1090  ft.).   Pedestrians 

reach  the  top  in  8/4  hr.  by  beautiful  walks  either  on  this  (W.)  side 

or  on   the  E.  side,   passing   the   English  Church  (PI.  1;  p.  214) 

and  the  Schweizerhauschen  (PI.  10  j  p.  21 3)  j  the  W.  side  is  in  the 

shade  in  the  morning ,  the  E.  side  in  the  afternoon.    At  the  top 

are  a  view-tower,  the  Hohen- Malberg  Hotel-Restaurant  (p.  213), 

and  a  statue  of  Emp.  William  I.    Paths  lead  thence  through  wood 

to  the  forester's  house  of  Oberlahnstein  and  to  Friicht  (comp.  p.  216). 

The  nearer  peak  of  the  Winterberg  (rfmts.),   a  hill  on  the  left 

bank  to  the  E.  of  the  Malbergskopf,  ^2  ^'-  ^^^  Ems,  commands 

a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Lahn.    On  the  summit  is  a  tower, 

bnilt  after  a  design  on  Trajan's  Column,  on  the  foundations  of  an 

old  Roman  tower  which  formerly  stood  here.  The  Pfahlgraben  (p.  74), 

which  was  provided  at  intervals  with  similar  towers,  is  still  traceable 

on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn. 

On   the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn,  immediately  above  the  high- 
road ,    towers  the  abrupt  B&derlei,  or  ^Sieben  Kopfe\  a  jagged  rock 


216   iJoute  27.  NASSAU.  From  Cohlenz 

of  slate  crowned  with  the  Concordia  Thurm  (866  ft.  j  rfmts.),  a  yiew- 
tower.  Halfway  up  is  the  MooshiittCy  a  pavilion  commanding  an 
admirable  surrey  of  Ems,  below  whichis  a  monument  to  the  warriors 
of  1870-71.  We  reach  the  summit  in  3/4-I  hr.  by  following  the 
Graben  -  Strasse,  above  the  Curhaus,  and  then  ascending  by  the 
stony  footpath  passing  the  war-monument  and  the  Mooahutte^  or  by 
the  broad  road  to  the  right  farther  on.  The  Bismarck  Promenade, 
diverging  to  the  left  at  the  beginning  of  the  latter,  leads  round  the 
Pfahlgraben  to  the  (8/4  hr.)  Bismarck  Tower  on  the  Klopp,  whence 
we  descend  to  Dorf  Ems  (fine  views). 

The  Xemmenantr  H6he ,  or  Schdne  Aui»icht  (1140  ft.),  IV2  br.  to  the 
K.  of  Ems,  is  one  of  the  highest  points  to  the  N.  of  the  Lahn,  and  com- 
mands an  extensive  and  interesting  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  the 
Taunns,  and  the  Eifel  Hts. 

On  the  hill  between  Ems  and  Braubach  are  situated  the  Oberlahn- 
sfeiner  Fortthatu.yz  hr.  from  the  slation  of  Hof-Zollgrund  (p.  115),  and 
the  village  of  Friicht,  which  contains  the  bnrial-vault  of  the  famoofl 
Prussian  minister  Baron  Stein  (1757-1831  *,  see  below).  The  epitaph  contains 
a  tribute  to  the  strong  and  upright  character  of  the  statesman.  Frau  Epp- 
stein  at  Friicht  keeps  the  keys  of  the  chapel  (gratuity).  —  A  direct  road 
leads  from  Ems  to  Friicht  (3H.);  or  we  may  reach  it  by  woodland  paths 
in  3/4  hr.  from  the  Malberg  (p.  215).  The  route  via  the  Schweizer-Thal 
to  Miellen  and  the  railway-station  of  Nievem  (1  hr.)  is  recommended  in 
returning. 

Road  to  SchweUbBch  (Wiesbaden)  vii  NassaUy  see'p.  144. 

Railway  to  Wbtzlab.  Leaving  Ems,  the  train  passes  Dauae- 
nau  (Nassauer  Hof),  on  the  right  bank,  with  an  ancient  octagonal 
tower,  and  still  surrounded  by  old  walls.  The  church  (restored) 
dates  from  the  13th ,  its  vestibule  from  the  15th  century.  Near 
Nassau  we  cross  the  Lahn. 

I5V2  M.  (from  Goblenz)  Nassau.  —  Hotels.  Hulleb,  at  the  sta- 
tion ;  Krone,  R.  IV2-2,  B.  s/4,  pens,  from  4^/3  •# ;  H6t£L  If  absau,  Bahn- 
Str.  2.  —  Bbllsvub,  prettily  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn,  R.  lV2~2i 
D.  IV4-2V2,  pens.  4-5  Ji.  —  Union  Brewery^  with  garden. 

Hydropathic  and  Pine-Bath  Establishment^  to  the  W.,  on  the  road  to 
Ems,  board  and  medical  advice  51/2,  R.  1-5  Jl  per  day. 

Nassau  (265  ft.),  a  small  and  ancient  town  (1900  inhab.),  believed 
to  have  existed  as  early  as  790  under  the  name  of  Nasonga,  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn  (which  is  here  crossed  by  a 
suspension-bridge),  and  Is  much  frequented  by  summer- visitors. 
It  was  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  minister  Baron 
Stein  (see  above) ,  the  last  scion  of  a  noble  family  that  had  resided 
here  since  the  13th  century.  The  Sehloss,  though  modernised,  dates 
from  1621,  and  now  belongs  to  the  Countess  von  der  Gr$ben.  In  i 
1815  Stein  caused  a  Gk>thic  tower  to  be  added  to  commemorate  the 
war  of  independence.  This  was  a  favourite  resort  of  the  illustrious  J 
proprietor,  who  embellished  It  with  various  reminiscences  of  thatj 
eventful  period.  Others  connected  with  the  war  of  1870-71  have 
been  added.  (Admission  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  &  Frld.,  9-11  &  2-65 
»^$posit  a  donation  for  a  charitable  purpose  In  j  box  at  tlii 


y  Google 


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to   WetzluT.  OBERNHOF.  1^7.  lioute.    217 

entrance.)  The  Schloss-Fark  is  open  to  the  public  daily,  except 
Sundays,  8-12  a.m.  and  2-7  p.m. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Lahn  rises  a  wooded  eminence 
(ascended  from  the  station  in  25  min.),  crowned  by  the  ruined 
Castle  of  Kassan,  erected  in  1101  by  Dado  lY.,  Count  of  Lauren- 
burg  (p.  218),  whose  descendants  henceforth  assumed  the  name  of 
Nassau ;  it  has  been  suffered  to  fall  to  decay  since  the  end  of  the 
16th  century.  Lower  down  on  the  same  hill  are  the  ruins  of  Bnrg 
Stein  (Y2  M.  from  the  suspension-bridge),  the  ancestral  seat  of  the 
Barons  Stein,  the  earliest  mention  of  which  is  in  1158,  and  which 
was  inhabited  down  to  the  end  of  the  17th  century.  The  projecting 
rook  in  front  of  it  bears  a  Momiment  to  Stein ,  consisting  of  a 
highly  characteristic  statue  in  marble,  by  Pfuhl  of  Berlin,  beneath 
a  Gothic  canopy  of  red  sandstone,  61  ft.  in  height,  inaugurated  in 
1872.  In  his  right  hand  the  great  minister  holds  a  scroll  with  the 
date  11th  June,  1807,  in  allusion  to  his  memorial  regarding  the 
reorganisation  of  the  Prussian  state.  The  terrace  affords  a  survey 
of  the  valleys  of  the  Lahn  and  Miihlbach. 

The  rocks  of  the  Hohe  Lei,  reached  from  Nassau  in  V*  !»'•  (donkey 
2V2  -^j  command  a  beautiful  view,  including  the  monastery  of  Arnstein. 

Beyond  Nassau  the  railway  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn, 
and  is  soon  carried  through  a  series  of  tunnels.  Before  and  beyond 
the  second ,  a  glimpse  is  obtained  on  the  right  of  Burg  Langenau 
(3  M.  from  Nassau,  1 M.  from  Obernhof),  built  in  1244,  the  ancient 
seat  of  an  Austrian  family,  the  Rhenish  branch  of  which  became 
extinct  in  1603.  The  watch-tower  and  external  walls  are  well  pre- 
served; within  the  latter  farm-buildings  have  been  erected.  Beyond 
the  castle,  on  the  opposite  bank,  rises  the  Eloster  Arnstein,  with  its 
church  of  the  12th  cent,  (enlarged  in  1359,  restored  in  1865),  and 
other  buildings,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  wooded  eminence.  A 
castle  of  very  ancient  origin  which  once  stood  here  was  converted 
by  the  last  Count  of  Arnstein  or  Arnoldstein  into  aPremonstratensian 
monastery  in  1208  (suppressed  in  1803).  It  is  most  easily  visited 
from  Obernhof  (see  below).  On  leaving  the  station  we  turn  to  the 
right,  and  after  300  paces  follow  the  path  to  the  left,  indicated 
by  a  flnger-post,  to  (8/4  M.)  Arnstein  (refreshments  at  the  Kloster- 
Muhle).  A  picturesque  path  leads  hence  to  (41/2  M.)  Nassau,  via 
Hollrich  and  Berg-Nassau. 

Near  (18  M.)  Obernhof  are  lead  and  silver  mines.  The  station 
is  on  the  left  bank  and  the  village  (Kloster  Arnstein  Inn)  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Lahn.  A  fine  point  of  view  in  the  vicinity  (reach- 
ed in  20  min.,  by  an  easy  but  shadeless  path)  is  known  as  the 
Ooethe-Punkt,  from  a  visit  made  to  it  by  Goethe  in  1814. 

The  line  now  passes  through  a  long  tunnel,  beyond  which  the 
valley  contracts.  Then  a  long  curve.  High  up,  on  the  slope  of  the 
left  bank,  is  situated  the  '•Alte  Hau8\  a  solitary  fragment  of  wall 
belonging  to  the  old  nunnery  of  Brunnenhurg . 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


218   Route  27.  SCHAUMBUUG.  From  CohUrz 

241/2  M.  Lanrenbnrg  (325  ft.),  with  silver-smelting  works,  a 
small  chateau,  and  the  ruins  of  the  ancestral  residence  of  the  Counts 
of  Nassau,  who  were  originally  Counts  of  Lauienburg  (comp.p.217) ; 
this  castle  is  first  mentioned  in  1093  and  was  already  a  ruin  in  1643. 

The  picturesque  Ruphaci^Thal  debouches  at  Lauenburg.  — PromLaunn- 
berg  a  road  leads  via  the  village  of  (25  min.)  8ch»id  to  (20  min.)  OeOmau^ 
with  a  mineral  spring,  in  the  valley  of  the  Lahn,  which  here  describes 
a  wide  beud. 

Beyond  the  Cramberg  Tunnel  the  train  stops  at  (28  M.)  Balduin- 
stein  (355  ft;  NoU)-^  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  of  that  name  on 
the  right,  built  in  1319,  rise  in  a  narrow  ravine  behind  the  village. 
A  good  road  (carriages  at  the  station)  leads  through  the  village  in 
3/4  hr.  to  the  castle  of  Schaumbifi-g;  walkers  ascend  the  steep  foot- 
path in  about  25  minutes. 

On  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  the  loftily-situated  castle  of 
Schaumburg  (915  ft.),  first  mentioned  in  1194,  overlooks  the  valley 
from  a  wooded  basaltic  peak.  It  was  once  the  seat  of  the  princes  of 
Anhalt-Schaumburg,  at  a  later  period  that  of  Archduke  Stephen  of 
Austria  (d.  1867),  and  is  now  the  property  of  Prince  George  Victor 
of  Waldeck.  The  castle  was  built  before  1194,  but  the  oldest  parts 
of  the  present  building  date  from  the  18th  cent. ;  the  modern  part, 
in  the  English-Gothic  style,  was  erected  for  Archduke  Stephen  by 
the  architect  Boos  of  Wiesbaden.  The  rooms  are  empty;  picturesque 
view  from  the  tower  (adm.  till  6  p.m.  25  pf.,  to  the  tower  10  pf.). 
Fine  park.  At  the  foot  of  the  castle  is  a  good  Inn  (with  pension), 
with  a  picturesque  garden.  —  We  descend  at  first  through  wood, 
and  then  through  the  village  of  Birlenbach  to  (3  M.)  Dietz. 

29  M.  Fachingen  (375  ft. ;  Anker)  derives  importance  from  its 
mineral  water,  of  which  a  large  quantity  is  annually  exported. 

30  M.  Diets  (360  ft.;  Victoria^  R.  &  B.  from 21/2,  D-  IV2,  pens. 
from  4  JK,  very  fair ;  Ho f  von  Holland ;  Rail.  Reitaurant;  Restaurant 
FuchSy  at  the  rail,  station),  with  4300  inhab.  and  large  marble- 
polishing  works,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  hillside,  close  to  the 
Lahn,  is  commanded  by  the  Peters- Kirchey  buHt  in  the  13th  cent., 
and  by  an  old  Castle  of  the  Counts  of  Dietz  and  Nassau,  now  a  house 
of  correction.  The  old  Bridge  across  the  Lahn  is  supported  by 
buttresses  erected  on  two  others  belonging  to  an  earlier  bridge 
(destroyed  in  1552),  which  lie  unbroken  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  — 
Through  the  valley  of  the  Aar^  which  joins  the  Lahn  at  Dietz,  runs 
the  Schwalbach  and  Wiesbaden  Railway  (see  p.  144). 

On  the  left  bank ,  1  M.  from  Dietz ,  and  connected  with  it  by  a 
beautiful  avenue  of  limes,  is  Schloss  Oraniensteiny  erected  in  1676, 
now  a  Prussian  military  school. 

32  M.  Limburg  (360  ft.;  *Preussi8cher  Hof,  *Nassauer  Hof^  R.  & 
B.  from  2y2>  D.  2  ujf,  good  wine  at  both ;  Alte  Post,  all  less  than 
V4  M.  from  the  station ;  beer  at  the  Actiehbrauereij  on  the  Wies- 
baden road),  an  old  town  with  8500  inhab.,  a  place  of  some  im- 
ortance  in  the  middle  ages,  and  now  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic 


to  Wetzlar.  LIMBURG.  '27.  Route.    219 

bishop,  with  many  picturesque  old  houses,  is  situated  on  the  Lahn., 
which  is  crossed  here  by  a  bridge  constructed  in  1315. 

Near  the  rail,  station  are  a  new  Ptotestant  Church  (Gothic)  and  a 
War  Morhument.  —  The  narrow  streets  of  the  old  town  ascend  direct 
to  the  *Cathedralj  with  its  seven  towers,  the  ^Basilica  St.  Gtorgii 
Martyris  erecta  909\  as  the  inscription  above  the  portal  records.  It 
rises  conspicuously  above  the  river,  from  the  right  bank  of  which 
the  best  view  of  it  is  obtained.  Tt'was  founded  by  Conrad  Kurzbold, 
the  powerful  Salic  count  of  the  Niederiahngau,  remains  of  whose 
Castle  adjoin  the  church.  The  present  structure  (sacristan  opposite 
the  entrance),  a  remarkably  fine  example  of  the  Transition  style, 
erected  in  1213-42,  was  skilfully  restored  in  1872-78.  The  ground- 
plan  shows  the  *  centralising'  tendencies  of  the  Rhenish  architects  of 
the  period.  The  interior  has  galleries,  arcading,  and  richly  articulated 
surfaces.  The  mural  paintings  of  the  13th  cent,  have  been  freshened 
up.  The  church  contains  a  font  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  a  monument 
(also  13th  cent.)  to  the  founder  (d.  948),  with  a  recumbent  figure, 
in  front  of  the  high-altar.  The  stained  glass  is  modern.  —  The  valu- 
able treasury  of  the  cathedral,  preserved  in  the  Parish  Churchy  next 
door  to  the  bishop's  residence,  is  shewn  only  on  Wed.,  11-12  and 
3-6  (1-5  pers.  3  Jf;  apply  to  the  dean).  —  A  beautiful  view  of  the 
cathedral  is  obtained  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn. 

A  small  Steamboat  plies  between  Limburg  and  Dehm  (p.  220),  affording 
a  fine  view  of  Limborg  cathedral  and  of  the  charch  of  Dietkirchen  (p.  220). 

From  Limbdrg  to  Au,  55  M.,  railway  in  4  brs.  This  line  traverses 
a  fertile  but  somewhat  aninteresting  district.  —  I6V2  M.  Montabanr  (  Ooldene 
Krone),  a  district- town  with  3600  inhab.,  refounded  by  the  Archbishop  of 
Treves  in  1217  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  village  and  named  Mons  Tabor.  — 

22  M.  Sierahahn  (950  ft.),  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Engers  (p.  84).  —  From 
(25V2  M.)  Seltirs  (840  ft.)  a  branch-line  runs  to  Hcichenburg  (see  below).  — 
The  train  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  Holxhach.  The  next  stations  are 
Marienrachdorff  Dierdorf^  with  a  ch&teau  and  park  of  Prince  Wied,  Ran- 
bach,  with  the  large  paper-mill  of  Hedwigsthal,  PuderbacK  Seifen,  and 
Neitersen.  —  46V2  M.  Altenkirchen  CLuykm,  R.  5V4-2V!?,  D.  11/2,  pens. 
4-4Va  •#),  an  industrial  town  on  the  Wied^  with  2000  inhab.,  near  which 
the  French  under  General  Kleber  defeated  the  Austrians  in  1796.  It  is 
the  junction  of  a  line  to  Hadamar  and  Limburg  (see  below).  —  49  M. 
Obererhach;  51 V2  M.  Breitscfieid.  —  55  M.  Au,  see  p.  60. 

FaoM  LiMBUBO  TO  Altemkirghen,  40  M.,  railway  in  3  hrs.  —  6'/s  M. 
Hadamar  (420  ft. ;  *Naszauer  Hof\  a  pleasant  little  town  (Q200  inbab.) 
with  an  old  castle.  —  Several  unimportant  stations.  Above  (17  M.)  We^Ur- 
bwg.  on  a  conical  basaltic  bill,  rises  the  chateau  of  Prince  Leiningen.  — 

23  M.  Korh  is  the  station  for  Mca^enlerg  (1590  ft. ;  Ferger),  a  summer- 
resort,  SVz  M.  to  the  E.  (diligence  Iwice  daily).  —  SlVa  M.  Haohenburg 
(1245  it.}  *' Krone;  Nassauer  Ho/),  a  town  of  1700  inhab.,  with  a  chateau 
of  Prince  Sayn,  built  in  the  13th,  and  restored  in  the  17th  century. 
Railway  to  Setters,  see  above.  About  IV4  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Hacbenburg 
is  the  former  Cistercian  convent  of  Mariemtatt ,  founded  in  1222  by 
Heinrich  III.  of  Sayn,  with  an  interesting  Gothic  church.  —  40  M.  Alten- 
kirchen^ see  above. 

Prom  Limburg  to  Wiesbaden^  EdcMy  and  Frankfort,  see  R.  29  e. 

The  banks  of  the  Lahn  now  become  flatter.  To  the  left  lies 
Dietkirehm^  with  the  oldest  church  in  the  country,  built  before  801, 
on  a  rocky  hill  rising  abruptly  from  the  river.  On  the  Lahn,  1 V4  ^ 


220   RouU27,  WEILBUIIG.  From  Cob lenz 

faithei  up,  are  the  village  and  old  castle  of  Dehrn  (steamboat  fioiu 
Limburg,  see  p.  219).  —  341/2  M.  Eschhofen ;  36  M.  Kerkerbach, 

36^2  ^*  Bimkel  (370  ft.;  Zur  Lahnbahn^  plain),  an  ancient 
town  witli  1100  inhab.,  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Lahn,  com- 
manded by  an  extensive  old  castle  of  the  Princes  of  Wied,  dating 
from  about  1159,  perched  on  a  rocky  height,  and  now  occupied  by 
the  local  authorities.  On  the  hill  opposite  lies  the  village  of 
Schadeckj  with  an  old  castle  (10  min.  from  the  station;  pretty 
view).  The  vineyards  on  the  steep  banks  of  the  Lahn  below  Bunkel 
are  the  last  in  this  region.  —  Near  (38^2  M.)  Villmar  (Basting)  are 
considerable  marble  quarries.  The  Bodenatein,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  bears  a  sandstone  statue,  8  ft.  high,  of  Conrad  I.  (911-918), 
by  L.  Cauer.  —  43  M.  Aumenau  (410  ft.),  with  ironstone-mines  and 
slate-quarries.  Near  (441/2  M.)  Furfurt  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
Qrdveneck.  After  a  succession  of  tunnels,  bridges,  and  viaducts,  the 
train  reaches  — 

50  M.  Weilborg  (Deutsches  Haus,  Traube,  both  very  fair; 
Nassauer  Hof;  Fension  zum  Romischen  Kaiser y  well  spoken  of),  a 
small  town  with  3700  inhab. ,  the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Nassau- 
Weilburg  down  to  1816.  Their  chateau,  built  in  the  16th  cent,  and 
enlarged  In  1721,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  rocky  eminence,  is  occu- 
pied by  the  district-authorities.  The  Stadtkirche,  near  the  chiteau, 
built  in  1707-11,  contains  the  family  vault  of  the  ducal  family. 

To  the  S.  is  the  entrance  to  the  pretty  WeilthaJ,  up  which  a  railway 
runs  vi&  (2Va  M.)  FreienfeU.  (4  M.)  Bst$i'thausen .  (6V»  M.)  Smtthausen, 
(61/s  M.)  Weilmilnster^  and  (8  M.)  Ro?mitadt,  to  (10  M.)  Lauhus-Esehbach. 
From  Freienfeld,  with  a  ruined  castle,  a  pleasant  walk  (2  hrs.)  may  he 
made  past  the  deer-park  of  Prince  Solms,  to  Fhilippsteiny  with  picturesque 
ruins  of  a  castle,  and  BraunfeU  (see  below).  —  About  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  of 
Weilburg,  on  a  steep  basaltic  hill,  rises  the  ruin  of  Mei^enberg  (key  at  the 
village-school;  20 pf.). 

The  wealth  of  the  district  consists  in  the  presence  of  red  iron- 
stone ,  yielding  45-50  per  cent  of  pure  metal,  between  the  layers  of 
slate.  About  200,000  tons  of  ore  are  mined  in  the  Weilburg  district 
yearly,  in  procuring  which  upwards  of  2000  miners  are  engaged. 

52  M.  Lohnberg ;  56  M.  Stockhausen.  -^  58  M.  Braunfels.  In 
the  neighbourhood  are  several  iron-mines. 

On  a  hill  2V«  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station  of  Braunfels  Gocal  railway; 
carr.  3  Jt)  is  the  small  town  (1500  inhab.)  of  BraunfeU  (986  ft;  ^ScMota- 
HdteU  with  a  terrace,  R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens.  5-7  Ji ;  Schifne  Aussicht ; 
Hdt.  Seyb^  well  spoken  of;  Solmser  ffof,  plain),  the  residence  of  the  Prince 
of  Solms-Braunfels,  whose  extensive  *Schloss^  dating  in  part  from  the 
late-Gothic  period,  contains  interesting  old  armour  and  other  curiosities 
(adm.  30  pf.,  free  on  Thurs.).  Pleasant  grounds;  fine  view  from  the  tower. 
—  Charming  walks  in  the  surrounding  woods,  and  longer  excursions  may 
be  taken. 

60  M.  Burgsolms.  From  (61  M.)  Albshausen  (Deutscher  Kaiser) 
we  may  walk  in  1/2  ^^'  *o  the  suppressed  Premonstratensian  abbey 
of  Altenberg,  with  its  fine  early-Gothic  church  (end  of  13th  cent.). 

64  M.  Wetzlar  (475  ft.;  Herzogliches  Haus,  in  the  town,  very 
fair,  R.  &  B.  2Y2»  ^'  2  .^;  Hdtel  fCaUwasser,  comn^erciaL  Kessel^ 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


to  Wetzlar.  WETZLAR.  27.  RouU.    221 

botli  near  the  station ;  OrtenhacKs  Restaurant^  wine),  with  8900  in- 
hab. ,  once  a  free  imperial  town,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
Lahn  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  i)iW,  ^j^  M.  from  the  station.  The 
town  extends  along  a  height  on  the  left  bank.  The  most  con- 
spicuous building  is  the  Caihedtal  (at  present  under  restoration), 
the  oldest  part  of  which  (N.W.)  dates  from  the  11th  cent.,  while  the 
N.  side,  the  finest  part,  was  erected  in  the  14th  and  15th,  and  the 
portals  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries.  The  terrace  planted  with  limes 
is  adorned,  on  the  S.  side,  with  a  monument  to  soldiers  who  fell  in  the 
Franco-Prussian  war,  by  Lehr.  When  the  church  was  converted  into 
a  Gothic  edifice,  the  two  low  Romanesque  towers  (*Heidenthiirme') 
were  left  standing  within  the  large  unfinished  towers  of  red  sandstone. 
The  nave  of  the  cathedral  is  used  by  both  Protestants  and  Roman 
Catholics,  the  choir  hy  the  latter  only.  —  On  the  terrace  to  the  N. 
is  a  War  MonumevU.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral,  in  the  Butter- 
markt,  which  is  embellished  with  a  bust  of  Goethe  by  Lehr,  rises  the 
Guard  HouaCy  built  of  red  sandstone.  —  The  Reichskammergericht 
(courts  of  justice),  with  the  imperial  eagle,  is  opposite  the  Herzog- 
liches  Haus.  The  building  of  the  Archives ^  near  the  Hauser  Thor, 
finished  in  1806,  contains  Prussian  state-papers. 

Goethe  resided  at  Wetzlar  for  some  months  in  1772 ,  when  he 
was  engaged  in  professional  work  at  the  Reichskammergericht,  and 
is  said  to  have  occupied  a  house ,  indicated  by  a  marble  tahlet ,  in 
the  narrow  Gewandgasse,  near  the  corn-market.  Various  events 
here  and  in  the  environs  suggested  his  *  Sorrows  of  Werther'. 

The  original  of  Werther  was  a  certain  Herr  Jerusalem,  secretary  to  the 
Brunswick  embassy,  who  shot  himself  in  a  house  (with  two  bow-windows)  in 
the  Schiller-Platz,  near  the  Franciscan  church.  The  Deutsches  Haus,  or 
Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order  (reached  by  the  street  to  the  left  of  the  new 
guard-house,  opposite  the  S.  transept  of  the  cathedral),  was  the  residence  of 
Charlotte's  father,  named  Buf!'  the  manager  of  the  estates  of  the  Order, 
and  still  contains  a  room  witli  a  few  memorials  of  her.  The  house  is 
distinguished  by  an  inscription ;  apply  for  admission  to  the  custodian,  who 
lives  behind  the  cathedral.  Outside  the  Wildbacher  Thor  is  the  'Werther 
Brunnen\  shaded  by  a  venerable  lime-tree,  a  favourite  resort  of  Goethe, 
by  whom  the  pretty  environs  of  Wetzlar  have  been  highly  extolled.  A 
broad  road  ascends  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn  to  (IV2  M.)  Oarbenheim, 
the  Wahlheim  of  Werther,  situated  on  a  hill  commanding  a  pleasant  view 
of  the  valley.  Most  of  the  old  houses  in  the  *Werther-Platz'  in  front  of 
the  church  were  burned  down  in  1866.  A  monument  here  marks  a 
favourite  seat  of  the  poet.  The  traveller  may  return  by  the  Bismarck  Tower ^ 
commanding  a  fine  view.  —  On  the  slope  of  the  Stoppelberg  (13l5  ft.  \  view- 
tower),  3  H.  from  Wetzlar,  lies  the  pleasant  village  of  Volpertshausen,  in 
a  house  in  which  (now  a  school)  the  ball  described  in  Werther  took  place. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Wetzlar  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
Kalsmuntf  which  is  said  to  he  built  on  Roman  foundations.  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Schfltzen-Garten  (keys  of  castle  at  Wald- 
schmidt's,  Schiller-Platz;  10  pf.). 

From  Wetzlar  to  Cologne  or  Qiessen,  see  R.  8 ;  to  Lollar,  Cassel, 
and  Berlin,  see  Baedeker^ a  Northern  Oermany. 

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222 


28.  Frankfort. 


Railway  Stationi.  The  Cbnt&al  Station  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  a  large  and 
handsome  building,  with  a  good  reataurant  (D.  from  12  to  2  p.m.  2  Jl) 
and  baths  (1  Jf),  lies  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  On  the  E.  side  of  the 
town  is  the  Ost-Bahnhof  (PI.  H,  3)  for  trains  to  Hanau.  Aschaffenbarg, 
and  Bavaria,  which  join  the  Central  Station  trains  at  Hanau,  and  also 
for  trains  to  Eberbach  (Stuttgart).  The  Bebsa  Station  (PI.  E,  F,  6),  in 
Sachsenhausen,  is  the  first  stopping-place  for  the  trains  to  Hanau,  Fulda, 
Bebra,  etc.  The  Offenbach  Station  (PI.  P,  G,  5)  serves  the  local  trains 
to  Offenbach.  —  Gitt  Agencies  of  the  railways :  Sehotten/eU  A  (7o.,  in  the 
Frankfurter  Hof  (see  below);  Inttmaiional  Slewing  Carriage  Co.,  Kaiser- 
Str.  1.  —  The  hotels  do  not  send  omnibuses  to  meet  the  trains.  Cabs 
and  tramways,  see  p.  22). 

Hotels  (all  those  of  the  first  class  have  lifts  and  electric  lighting,  and 
are  generally  heated  by  hot  air).  At  the  Central  Station.  ^HdTEL  d^Amolb- 
tbbbb,  Bahnhofs-Platz ,  corner  of  Kaiser-Str.,  B.  from  4,  B.  1  •#  40  pf., 
D.  at  1  o'cl.  4,  from  6  to  8  o*cl.  5V3,  pens,  from  10  Jt ;  ^hStel  db  Rdssib 
(Pi.  k;  B,  5),  Bahnhofs-Platz  4,  R.  21/2^,  B.  IV4,  D.  4  UT;  •HdiBL  Bhistol 
(PI.  vt  B,  4,  0),  with  restaurant,  caft^,  and  American  bar,  B  ft  B.  fr  >m  i, 
D.  from  3  jk;  *Gband-H6tel  National  (PI.  1 ;  B,  5),  B.  2Vs-iVt,  B.lUT  20 pf., 
D.  3  •# ;  *GBAND-HdTBL  Continental  (PI.  m 3  B,  6),  B-  2Va-6.  B.  IVi,  D.  4-5  •#  ; 
Gbbmania  (PI.  q;  B,  6),  with  garden,  R.  2V2-4,  B.l,  D.  2V2-3V2Ur;  •Savoy 
Hotel  (PI.  h^  B,  5),  a  hotel  garni,  R.3-10,  B.  V^Ji;  HdTEL  Royal  (PL  x; 
B,  4,  5),  Kronprinten-Str.,  R.  IVa-i*,  B.  «/*,  I>-  i^-^Ji;  •Dbdtsohbb  Kaisbk 
(PI.  Oi  B,  6),  Wiesenhiitten-PJatz  36,  R.  ft  B.  a-5,  D.  21/*,  pens.  6-8  •#; 
RciGHSHOF,  Hohenzollem-Str.  12,  at  the  corner  of  the  Nidda-Str.;  Stadt 
Fbankfubt  (PI.  r;  B,  6),  KOlneb  Hof  (PI.  s;  B,  6),  Bahnhof-H6tel  (PI.  t; 
B,  6),  three  unpretending  houses  in  the  Bahnhofs-Platz;  Stuttoabtbb 
Hof,  Kronprinzen-Str.  59,  R.  VJr^^k.  B.  1,  D.  iVj^S  UT;  Basblbb  Hof 
(ChristUehe*  Hotpit),  Taunus-Str.  36,  R.  iVr-5,  B.  s/^-l,  D.  l*/*  UT.  —  In  the 
Town.  •PALAST-HdxEL  Fdbbtenhof  (PI.  b;  C,  4),  Qallas-Anlage  2,  R.  from  4, 
B.  li/s,  d^j.  4,  D,  5  Ulf;  ^Fbankfubteb  Hof  (PI.  a;  D,  4),  Kaiser-Plati,  a 
large  establishment,  with  restaurant.  American  bar,  post,  telegraph,  and 
railway-offices,  R.  ft  B.from  472,  D.  (1  p.m.)  4,  pens,  (in  winter)  from  lOUlf; 
•Hotel  Imp£bial,  Opem-Platz,  with  restaurant,  new;  •Swan  (PL  d;  D,  3), 
at  which  the  peace  of  lOth  May,  1871,  was  concluded,  Steinwegl2,  at  the 
Theater-Platz,  R.  3-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  3-3V2,  pens,  from  8  •#;  •PabisbbHof  (PL  e ; 
D,  3),  Schiller-Platz  5,  R.  3-7,  B.  IV4,  D.  3-4,  pens,  from  8  UT.  —  •H6tel  de 
l'Union  (PL  f ;  D,  3),  Steinweg  9,  R.  2V«-4,  B.  IV4,  D.  3  •#;  •H5tbl  Dbexbl 
(PL  i ;  F,  3),  Grosse  Friedberger-Str.  18,  commercial,  R.  2V2-3V2,  B.  IV4,  D. 
3  •#.  —  Taunus  H6tel  (PL  w 3  D,  3),  Grosse  Bockenheimer-Str.  6-10,  R.  2-4, 
B.  1,  D.  IV2-2V2  •#;  Centbal  Hotel  (PL  g;  D,  4),  Kaiser-Piatz,  at  the  corner 
of  Bethmann-Str.,  well  spoken  of,  R.  2V2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2  UK;  Pbinz  Heikbich, 
Scharnhorst-Str.,  R.  2-3  Jl;  H6tel  db  Bbuxblles  (PL  u:  D,  3),  Grosse 
Gallus-Str.  14;  Dbbi  Kai8Bb(PL  p;  D,  4),  Grosser  Hirschgraben  6,  R.  IVi-^t 
B.  >/«  •#  f  WtBTTEMBEBQEB  HoF  (PL  n ;  E,  3, 4),  Fahrgassc  41,  with  restaurant 
(beer);  Adgsbuboeb  Hof,  Vogelgesanggasse  (PL  E,  3.  4),  unpretending; 
Stadt  Fbiedbebg,  Grosse  Friedberger-Str.  34,  R.  IV2-2  Ulf,  B.  70 pf.,  D.  IV2  •#, 
fair;  Gbunbb  Badm,  Grosse  Fischergasse  4  (PL  F,  4),  R.  IVrlVi)  ^'  ^  h  •^• 

Pensions,  all  very  fair.  MUe  WhUe,  Esshenheimer-Anlage  32;  Mre. 
Emerson.  Bockenheimer-Landstrasse  7;  Oermania^  Bockenheimer-Land- 
strasse  64;  Oranien,  Beethoven-Str.  69  (5-9  •#);  Fr&ulein  Olga  Clouth^ 
Beethoven-Str.  71;  Pent.  Internationale,  Staufen-Str.  31  (5-7  •#);  Miiropole, 
Gallus-Anlage  1  and  Gartnerweg  24  (4V2-7  Jf) ;  A.  Barth,  Uiedenau  52  (4-6Ui()  j 
Pension  Terminus,  Mainzer-Landstrasse  51  (from  6*#);  Vorster,  Linden-Str.  17 
(4-6  Ui();  Befm,  Feuerbach-Str.  31,  pens,  from  30  •#  weekly  (for  ladies  and 
families) ;  Fraulein  Klees,  Bockenheimer-Anlags  21  (41/2-6  Jf). 

Restaurants.  Wine.  ^'Malepartus,  Grosse  Bockenheimer-Str.  30,  D.  2V2  Jf  ; 
•Buerose,  Goethe-Str.  29  (1st  floor),  D.  2  ft  3  UK;  Print  von  Arkadien,  Grosse 
Bockenheimer-Str.  9,  with  terrace,  D.  V/zJl;  Wolf,  Borsen-Platz  1 ;  *FaUtaff, 
Theater-Plat/  7,  D.  from  IV2  Jl;  Bern/tard,  Grosser  Kornmarkt  lU,    with 


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Practical  Notes. 


FRANKFORT. 


28,  Route.   223 


^uld-German''  drinkine-room  on  the  apper  floors  at  the  Theatre  (p.  234),  at 
the  *Palm  Garden  (p.236),  and  at  the  ^Zoological  Garden  (p.  !^5).  —  Continental 
Bodega^  Schiller-Platz  2  (Spanish  and  Portuguese  wines).  —  Frankfort  Cider  : 
Silpt  Alte  Mainaergasse  29;  Teutonia,  Pauls-Platz  11.  —  Bkeb.  Kaiserhof^ 
Goethe-Platz  6,  D.  1  UT  70  A  2  •#  70  pf.  (Pilsen  beer,  Vienna  cuisine); 
''Manehner  Hofbrdu^  Haus  Alemannia,  Schiller-Platz  4,  D.l VaUlf ;  *Kaitergarten^ 
Opern-Platz  2a,  with  garden,  much  frequented  in  summer;  Taunus^  Grosse 
Bockenheimer-Str.  6,  D.  from  iVt  M;  Zur  Oper,  Opem-Plat/  2;  Ldwfnhof^ 
Zeil  24;  C(^6  Ne^^  Bihergasse  8  and  Borsen-Platz,  D.  from  1  Ui(  20  pf. ; 
Stadi  Uhn^  Schafergasse  9;  LOwenbrdu  (*Brau8tiibr),  Grosse  Bockenheimer- 
Sir.  2;  Pilsener  Bierhalle,  Borsen-Platz  9;  Pfungst&dter  Bier?iallen^  Vilbeler- 
Str.  26  and  Groase  Bockenheimer-Str.  29;  Krokodil,  Zeil  45,  unpretending 
and  popular:  TannMuser^  Kai8er-Str.71.  Automatic  Restaurants  in  the  Zeil, 
Kaiser-Str.  (No.  69),  etc. 

Cafifts.  *C!a/(rf  Bauer^  Schiller-Str.  2,  with  mural  paintings;  *Brittoly  in 
the  Pariser  Hof  (p.  222) ;  Fahrig  A  Wolff,  at  the  Hdt.  Bristol  (p.  222 ' ;  Orphewn^ 
Neue  Zeil  80;  Goldtchmidty  AUerheiligen-Str.  83  (Jewish);  Kaieer-Cctfi. 
Kaiser-Str.  58.  —  Oonfectionera.  *i'.  R.  BilUchly,  Kaiser-Str.  23 ;  M.  BUtschly, 
.Ooethe-Platz,  with  ladies'  caf€;  Johner^  G<>ethe-S(p.  25;  Lehr^  Opern-Platz; 
H.  Kwtt^  Steinweg  4  ('Frankfurter  Brenten').  Chocolate :  De  Giorgi,  Lieb- 
frauen-Str.  3 ;  ^Kakaostube'  in  the  Goethe-Platz. 

Pott  and  Telegraph  0£ace,  in  the  Zeil  (PI.  E,  3;  p.  225). 

Oah  Fares  (from  11  p.m.  to  6  a.m.  double 
fares) : 


1-2  pera. 

3  pers. 

Jtpf. 

UTpf. 

-  60 

-80 

1- 

120 

1  — 

120 

1  80 

2  - 

-  25 

-30 

120 

1  50 

2  10 

2  70 

■-35 

-45 

4  pers. 
UTpf. 

1  40 

1  20 

2  — 

-30 

1  5'J 

2  70 
—  45 


Drive  in  the  let  Zone  (blue  line)  .   .  . 

Drive  in  the  2nd  Zone  (red  line)  .    .   . 

>/«  hr.  in  the  town 

1  hr.  in  the  town 

Every  additional  10  minutes 

Vt  lir.  outside  the  town 

1  hr.  ou<sicle  the  town 

Every  additional  10  minutes 

Luggage,  20  pf.  for  each  ar  icle  over  20 lbs. 
The  Taxameter  Cabs,  distinguished  by  the  tall  hats   of  the  drivers, 
have  a  dilTerent  tariff  for  engagements  by  time. 

Eleotrio  Tramways  (10  pf.,  including  transfers).  The  following  lines  need 
alone  be  mentioned:  1.  (white  name-boards)  Central  Station  (PI.  B,  4)-KaiFer- 
Str.-Zeil-Zoological  Gsffden-Ost-Bahnho/ (PI.  H.  3).  —  2.  (whiteboards)  Central 
5<atto»-Kalcer-Str.-Weis^frauen-Str.-Pauf<-P/a<-e(Pl.  E,4).  -  3.  (white  boards) 
(?«n/ra/ ig<a«on- Kaiser-Str. -S chill ei-Plafz  (PI.  D,  3)-E.«chenhciiDer-Thor- 
Eschenheimer-Landstrasse(PJ.D,2.1)-^o;^Aa««en-iSf^.— 4.(whiteboard3)(7«»<raZ 
i»««on-Mainzer-Landstpasse-Opem-Platz  (PLC,  3, 2)-  PaI«»Grard«w(Rossert-Str. ; 
PI.  A,  1).  —5.  (green  boards)  (?«»<raf /8fte/to«-Feuerbach-Str.  (PI.  B,  3,2)-Brcken- 
heimer-Landstrasse (Palm  QrardLen]-Bockenheimer  War  «.—  6.  (blue  b  )ards) Palm 
Garden  (Rossert-Str. ;  PI.  A,  l)-Opem-Platz-Goethe-Slr.-7ieil-Z<K>Zoi;'tcaZ  Garden 
(PL  H,  2,3).  —  7.  (while  boards) -8ocA:«n;i«tm«r  fTarfe-Opem-Platz-Zeil-Berge: - 
Str.  (PI.  G,  H,  2,  iyBornheitn.  —  8.  (gre:'n  boards)  Bockenheiiner  TTarfg-Opern- 
PlHtz-Ncue-Mainzer-Str.-Unter-Main-Brucke  (PI.  D,  6) - Sachsenhausen  ((Offen- 
bach Local  Station).  -  9.  (yellow  boards)  Palm  &ard«/»  (Rossert-S I r.;  PL  A,l)- 
Opem-Platz-Unter-Main-Briicke-iSacAxen/taiMeft  (Local  Station). 

Light  Sail  way  8 :  1.  Steam  Tbamwat  to  Bschersheim  and  Beddemheim, 
28  trains  daily  in  24  min.  (comp  PL  D,2, 1) ;  the  line  is  now  being  extended 
to  Obervrsel.  —  2.  Elbcteic  Eailwat  from  Sachsenhausen  to  Offenbach, 
starting  from  the  old  Main  bridge  and  stopping  at  Oberrad,  every  20  min. 
(fares  20,  15,  10  pf.).  —  3.  The  Waldbahn  (^Forest  Line')  is  a  steam- 
tramway  running  from  Sachsenhausen  (Unter-Main-Briicke,  PL  D,  5,  and 
Offenbach  Station,  PI.  F,  5)  in  three  directions  to  the  Frankfurter  Stadt- 
wald,  the  favourite  point  for  short  excursions ;  stations.  Forsthaut  (restBMT&nt)^ 
Neulsenburg^  Hiederrad  (p.  239),  and  Schwanheim  (p.  240). 

Baths.     Warm  at  the  "Stddtische  Sch'cimmhad  (PL  F,  3),    Allerheiligeii- 


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224   Routers.  FRANKFORT.  History. 

Str.,  at  QreVsy  Leonhardsthor  (PI.  E,  4),  and  at  AlVs,k\i&  Mainzergasse 
(PI.  D,S4).  Turkish,  etc.,  at  Sachsenhausen,  Schaumain-kai  41.  River  Baths 
in  the  Main  (PI.  P,  G,  4  and  C,  D,  5). 

Theatres.  "^Opsra  House  (PI.  C,  2,  3;  p.  233)  and  Town  Theatre  (PI.  D,  3 ; 
p.  225),  both  the  property  of  the  town  (ticket-offices  sJso  at  Schottenfels's, 
Eaiser-Platz  17,  and  Fuchs's,  Zeil  9).  —  Variety  Theatre  at  the  Orphevm, 
Neue  Zeil:;80-82. 

Concerts.  The  Museums-Ossellscha/t  gives  22  orchestral  concerts  in 
the  Saalban  on  Frid.  evenings  and  Sun.  afternoons  in  winter,  and  also 
ten  evening  ^concerts  of  chamber-mnsic. 

Permanent  Exhibitions  of  Art  at  the  Kunttverein  (PI.  D,  3),  daily 
9.30-6,  holidays  10.30-1,  (1  UT);  Banger slPietwe  Saloon,  Kaiscr-Str.  .66; 
Sehneider^s  Kunstsalon,  Rossmarkt  23 ;  Hermes^  Liebfrauen-Str.  8.  — -  Castan's 
Panopticum,  Kaiser-Str.  67. 

British  Consul:  F.  Oppenheimer,  Esq.^  Consul  General,  Bockenheimer 
Landstrasse  8;  C.  W.  Sehu>are,  Esq.,  Vice-Consul.  —  United  States  Consul: 
Richard  Ownthery  Bsq.^  Consul  Genera],  Kaiser-Str.  49;  George  E.  Murphy: 
Esq.y  Vice-Consul  General;  S.  W.  ffanauer^  Esq.^  Deputy  Consul  General. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  French  Churchy  Goethe-Platz  7,  at  11.15 
a.m.  and  3.80  p.m. ;  Chaplain,  Rev,  O.  TT.  Maekenne^  Korner-Str.  13. 

Chief  Attractions  (one  day).  In  the  morning  the  Bossmarkt  and  (3k>ethe- 
Platz  and  the  monuments  there,  Goethe's  House  (p.  226),  the  Bomer  (p.  227), 
Cathedral  (p.  229),  the  old  bridge  over  the  Main,  and  the  Stadel  Institution 
(p.  286);  afternoon.  Palm  Garden  (p.  235);  evening.  Opera  House  (p.  238). 

Frankfort  on  the  Main  (300  ft.l,  with  305,000  inhab.  (including 
29,000  Jews  and  a  garrison  of  2200  soldiers),  formerly  a  free  town 
of  the  Empire,  lies  in  a  spacious  plain  bounded  by  mountains,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  navigable  Main.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  riyer 
lies  Sachsenhausen,  a  suburb  connected  with  Frankfort  by  five  stone 
bridges,  and  by  an  iron  suspension  -  bridge.  In  a  commercial  and 
still  more  in  a  financial  point  of  view,  Frankfort  is  one  of  the  most 
Important  cities  in  Germany.  The  old  part  of  the  town  consists  of 
narrow  and  unattractive  streets,  but  the  Zeil,  the  Neue  Mainzer-Str., 
Kaiser-Str.,  Frieden-Str.,  etc.,  boast  of  many  handsome  modern 
buildings.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  ^Anlagen\  or  public  grounds, 
laid  out  on  the  site  of  the  fortifications  removed  In  1806-12.  Beyond 
these  are  suburban  streets  extending  to  Bomheim  on  the  N.E.  and 
Bockenheim  on  the  N.W.  The  most  fashionable  quarter  is  the  West 
End,  between  the  Taunus  Promenades,  the  Bockenheim  High  Road, 
and  the  West-End-Platz.  The  industrial  interests  are  mainly  con- 
centrated in  the  S.W.  part,  beyond  the  Galluswarte  (PI.  A,  4,  5). 
The  air  of  wealth  and  importance  which  pervades  the  city  affords  an 
indication  of  the  success  and  extent  of  its  commercial  relations. 

Frankfort  is  first  mentioned  in  793  as  the  seat  of  the  royal  residence 
(*Pfalz')  of  ^Franeonofurd^  (ford  of  the  Franks),  and  in  794  Charlemagne 
held  a  convocation  of  bishops  and  dignitaries  of  the  empire  here.  After 
the  erection  of  a  new  palace  (comp.  p.  228)  by  Louis  the  Pious  in  822 
the  town  soon  reached  such  a  high  degree  of  prosperity  that  at  the  time 
of  the  death  of  Louis  the  German  (876)  it  was  already  looked  upon  as 
the  capital  of  the  East  Frankish  Empire.  In  1333  Frankfort  had  become 
practically  independent  of  the  royal  power,  and  in  the  i6th  cent,  it  was 
ofScially  recognized  as  a  ^free  imperial  town'.  One  of  the  most  important 
of  the  privileges  which  it  received  was  the  confirmation  of  the  Easter 
Fair  in  1330;  the  Autumn  Fair  had  been  sanctioned  by  Frederick  II.  as 
early  as  1240.    To  these  fairs   the  town  owed  the  importance  it  eiyoyed 


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a,  Kaiyer-Slram.  FUANKFOllT.  28.  Route,  225 

during  the  16th  and  17th  cent,  as  a  centre  of  domestic  and  foreign  trade. 
It  was  also  the  headquarters  of  the  German  book-trade  down  to  the  end 
of  the  18th  century.  From  the  time  of  Frederick  Barbarossa  (1152)  on- 
wards most  of  the  German  sovereigns  were  chosen  at  Frankfort,  and  in 
1356  it  was  recognised  by  the  Golden  Bull  of  Charles  IV.  (p.  229)  as  the 
permanent  seat  of  the  elections.  On  the  dissolution  of  the  Empire  in  1806, 
Frankfort  was  made  over  to  Carl  von  Dalberg,  Primate  of  the  Rhenish 
Confederation  (previously  Archbishop  of  Hayence),  and  in  1810  it  became 
the  capita]  of  the  grand-duchy  of  Frankfort,  which  included  Aschaffenburg, 
Hanau,  Fulda,  and  Wetzlar.  From  1815  to  1866  it  was  one  of  the  four  free 
cities  of  the  (j^erman  Confederation  and  the  seat  of  the  Diet,  and  in  1866 
it  passed  to  Prussia.  The  formerly  Hessian  town  of  Bockenheim  \\as  in- 
corporated with  Frankfort  in  1895. 

a.  Kaiser-Strasse  and  Zeil. 

The  ^Central  Bailway  Station  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  a  large  and  hand- 
some building  by  Eggert  and  Frantz  (1883-88),  is  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  convenient  stations  on  the  Continent.  It  is  richly  adorned 
with  allegorical  sculptures  (Genius  of  Steam,  Electricity,  Agriculture, 
Industry,  etc.)  and  cost  about  1,650,000^.  Its  erection,  and  the  re- 
moTal  of  the  Western  Stations  outside  the  Taunus-Thor,  have  com- 
pletely dianged  the  appearance  of  the  S.W.  part  of  the  town.  The 
principal  approach  to  the  inner  town  from  this  side  is  the  Imposing 
Kaiser- Stbassb  (PI.  B,  C,  D,  4).  At  the  point  where  this  street 
crosses  the  Gallus  Promenade  (PL  C,  4)  are  a  Clock  Tower  and  (to 
the  right)  the  New  Theatre  (p.  234).  The  street  then  leads  via  the 
Kaiser-Platz,  with  its  tasteful  fountain,  to  the  Rossmakkt  (PI.  D,  3), 
in  the  W.  half  of  which  rises  the  Monument  of  Qutenherg^  erected  in 
1858,  a  fine  group  on  a  large  sandstone  pedestal,  designed  by  Ed.  von 
der  Launitz.  The  central  figure  with  the  types  in  the  left  hand  is 
Gutenberg,  on  his  right  Fust,  on  his  left  Sohoffer.  On  the  frieze 
are  portrait  -  heads  of  fourteen  celebrated  printers,  with  Caxton 
among  them.  In  the  four  niches  beneath  are  the  arms  of  the  four 
towns  where  printing  was  first  practised,  Mayeuce,  Frankfort, Venice, 
and  Strassburg.  Round  the  base  are  figures  representing  Theology, 
Poetry,  Natural  Science,  and  Industry. 

The  Gobthb-Platz  (PI.  D,  3),  which  adjoins  the  Rossmarkt  on 
the  N. ,  is  embellished  with  Schwanthaler's  Monument  of  Qoethe, 
erected  in  1844,  twelve  years  after  the  poet's  death.  The  reliefs  on 
the  pedestal  in  front  are  allegorical;  on  the  sides  are  figures  £rom 
Goethe's  poems.  —  On  the  left  is  the  French  Reformed  Church  of  1792 
(French  service  on  Sun.  at  9.30,  English  at  11.30  a.m.  and  3.30 
p.m.).  —  Farther  on,  in  the  Theater-Platz  (PI.  D,  3),  rises  the  Old 
Theatre  (erected  in  1782),  which  it  is  now  proposed  to  pull  down. 

Adjoining  the  Rossmarkt  on  the  N.E.  side  is  the  Schillbk- 
Platz  (PI.  D,  3),  with  thQ  Hauptwache^  built  as  a  guard-house  in 
1729  but  no  longer  used  as  such,  and  &  Statue  of  Schiller  in  bronze, 
from  a  model  by  Dielmann  (1863).  Among  the  handsome  buildings 
enclosing  this  square  are  the  Bavaria,  the  Alemanrua^  and  the  Haus 
zum  Kaiser  Karl.  To  the  right  rises  the  Katharinen-Kirche  (PI.  D,  E,  3), 

Baeukkku's  Rhine.   15th  Edit.  15jOOgle 


226   Route  28,  FRANKFOUT.  h.  Old  Toun: 

built  in  1680 ,  with  nameroas  tombs  (one  of  1378)  and  modern 
stained-glass  windows  from  designs  by  Stelnle  and  Linnemann. 

We  now  enter  tbe  Zeil  (PI.  £,  F,  3),  a  broad  and  handsome 
street,  the  busiest  In  Frankfort,  consisting  chiefly  of  attractive  shops. 
To  the  left  is  the  handsome  General  Pott  Office  (PI.  E,  3),  built 
by  Ahrens  and  Prinzhausen  in  1892-94  and  adorned  with  groups  in 
copper  by  Hausmann.  The  monument  to  Emp.  William  I.  in  the 
court,  with  a  colossal  bust,  is  by  Krilger  (1895).  The  old  Palace  of 
Prince  Thum  and  Taxis,  built  in  1731,  which  contained  the  assembly- 
hall  of  the  German  Diet  (Bundestag)  down  to  1866,  now  also  belongs 
to  the  post-offlce  (entr.,  Grosse  Eschenheimer-Str.  26). 

The  Liebfrauen-Strasse,  the  first  cross-street  on  the  8.,  leads  into  the 
heart  of  the  Old  Town.  Immediately  to  the  left  stands  the  Bom.  Oath. 
Lieb/rauen-Kirche  (Fl.  E,  3;  16th  cent.),  with  three  old  tombstones  (one,  in 
the  left  aisle,  of  1S22).  The  Liebfrauen-Str.  is  continued  to  the  BSmerberg 
(p.  227)  by  the  Keue  Krame,  passing  the  Old  Exchange  (PI.  E,  4). 

Farther  on  the  Schafergasse  leads  from  the  Zeil  to  the  left  to  the 
disused  Cemetery  of  St  Peter  (p.  234),  and  the  Bome-Str.,  beyond 
the  Afarfcct  (PI.  E,  3),  to  the  right  to  the  old  Jewish  quarter  (p.  232). 
—  In  the  Nbub  Zbil,  to  the  left,  are  the  Police  Headquarters 
(PI.  F,  3),  beyond  which  are  the  handsome  Law  Courts  (PI.  F,  2, 3), 
a  German  Renaissance  structure.by  Endell  (1884-89).  —  Friedberg 
Promenade  and  Zoological  Garden,  see  p.  235. 

b.  jThe^Old  Town.   Streets  on  the  Bight  Bank  of  the  Main. 

The  picturesque  network  of  streets  in  the  Old  Town  affords  a 
good  idea  of  the  original  Frankfort,  though  some  of  them  have  now 
been  cleared  away  to  make  room  for  new  thoroughfares. 

At  Grosse  Hirschgraben  23  is  the  *6oethe  House  (PI.  D,  4),  where 
the  poet  was  born  (28th  August,  1749)  and  spent  his  boyhood  (open 
on  week-days  8-1  &  3-6,  on  Sun.  and  holidays  10-1;  adm.  1  J#). 
The  house  was  purchased  by  the  ^Deutsche  HochstifV  in  1863,  and 
has  been  restored  to  the  condition  in  which  it  was  after  the  altera- 
tions made  in  1765  (see  'Dichtung  und  Wahrheit'). 

The^GnouND  Floob  contains  the  dining-room  and  kitchen.  The  former 
was  also  the  room  of  Gatharina  Elisabeth  Goeihe  (1781-1806),  Goethe's 
mother.  ~  On  the  staircase  are  the  *Boman  Views'  mentioned  in  *Dichtung 
und  Wahrheif. 

FiBST  Floob.  The  three  rooms  towards  the  street  were  those  occupied 
by  Lieut  Thorenc  in  1769.  The  'Karl  August  Boom'  Q.)  was  occupied  for 
several  days  in  1779  by  the  Duke  Charles  Augustus  of  Weimar,  when 
visiting  Goethe's  parents.  —  Towards  the  court  is  the  music-room. 

Second  Floob.  The  middle  front-room  contains  the  picture-gallery  of  the 
poet's  father.  Councillor  Johann  Catpar  Qoethe  (1710-82),  arranged  as  it  was  in 
1756.  To  the  left  is  his  study,  from  the  comer-window  of  which  he  could 
watch  the  goings-out  and  comings-in  of  his  son.  To  the  right  is  the  bedroom 
of  the  poet's  parents,  and  beyond  is  the  room  in  which  their  illustrious  son 
Wolfgang  was  bom.  —  At  the  back  is  the  room  of  Goethe's  sister  Cornelia 
(1760-77). 

Thibd  Floob. ^  The  middle  front-room  was  the  young  Goethe's  study, 
where' he 'created'GStz,  Clavigo.  Werther,  and  Fanst.  In  the  adjoining 
room  to  the  left  is  his  puppet-theatre. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Komer.  FRANKFORT.  28,  Route.    227 

The  archway  in  the  court  leads  to  the  Goethe  MuBeom,  contain- 
ing reminiscences  of  the  poet's  hoy  hood  and  also  of  his  later  relations 
with  his  native  town.  It  is  adorned  with  marble  hnsts  of  him  and 
of  his  parents. 

On  the  walls  are  the  larger  portraits  of  Goethe,  his  family,  and  others. 
On  the  rear-wall  are  the  ^Joseph  Paintings'  by  Traaimann  and  8eekatz.  — 
The  show-cases  and  cupboards  contain  smaller  relics,  such  as  silhouettes, 
autographs,  MSS.,  drawings,  letters,  views  of  places  mentioned  in  *Dichtung 
nnd  Wahrheit',  etc.  —  The  rooms  above  the  museum  contain  the  Ooethe 
TAbrary  of  the  Deutsche  Hochstift  (p.  226) ,  a  specialized  collection  of  the 
classical  period  of  German  literature,  with  Goethe  as  its  centre  (20,000  vols). 

We  follow  the  Hirschgraben  towards  the  S.  to  the  Mint  (PI.  D,  4), 
and  then  proceed  to  the  left  through  the  new  Bethmann-Str.  and 
between  the  still  unfinished  additions  to  the  Romer  (see  below),  to 
the  Pauls-Platz  (PI.  E,  4),  with  the  Church  of  8t  Paul  (bell  to 
the  right),  a  rotunda  built  in  1833,  where  the  German  parliament 
of  1848-49  held  its  meetings. 

The  R5)fEBBBBO  (PI.  E,4),  or  market-place  in  front  of  the  Romer, 
which  down  to  the  end  of  last  century  no  Jew  was  permitted  to  enter 
(comp.  p.  232),  is  the  centre  of  the  Old  Town  and  was  the  scene  of 
those  public  rejoicings  after  the  election  of  an  emperor  which  Goethe 
so  graphically  describes  in  his  autobiography.  The  Justitia  Fountain 
In  the  centre,  erected  in  1543,  and  adorned  with  a  stone  figure  of 
Justice  in  1611,  was  completely  renewed  in  1887  and  furnished  with 
a  figure  in  bronze.  While  the  coronation  banquet  was  being  held  in 
the  Romer  this  fountain  ran  for  ii^hr.  with  red  and  white  wine. 

The  "^dmer  (PI.  E,  4)  is  the  name  now  applied  to  the  Town 
Hally  which  consists  of  a  group  of  twelve  separate  old  houses  and 
various  large  new  buildings  between  the  RSmerberg,  the  Romergasse, 
the  Buchgasse,  and  the  BarfiissergasBe  (open  daily  8-7,  50  pf.;  Mon. 
&  Wed.  10-1,  free).  Three  of  the  houses  in  the  Romerberg  were 
supplied  in  1896-98  with  new  late-Gothic  facades,"  with  lofty  gables, 
from  the  plans  of  M.  Meckel.  These  are  the  so-called  Alt-Limpurg , 
at  the  corner  of  the  Limpurgergasse,  the  seat  in  the  17th  cent,  of  the 
Influential  patrician  guild  of  that  name;  the  JJaus  zum  Romer  j  prop- 
erly so-called,  fitted  up  in  1405,  along  with  the  *Goldener  Schwan' 
behind  it,  as  a  town-hall,  with  large  halls  on  the  groundfloor;  and 
the  Hau8  Loewenatein.  The  Haus  FrauenMein  (r.),  formerly  the  head- 
quarters of  another  patrician  society,  has  a  painted  facade  in  the 
taste  of  the  18th  century.  The  Sahhaua,  at  the  corner  of  the  Wedel- 
gasse,  has  rustlca  pillars  and  fine  iron  screens;  the  end-facade  is 
carved  in  wood.  The  Haus  Wanebach^  Wedelgasse  3,  is  a  character- 
istic timber  structure  of  the  16th  cent.,  with  a  small  and  picturesque 
court;  it  was  restored  in  1888-90.  The  facade  of  the  Ooldener  Schwan 
dates  from  1731.  Beyond  the  court,  in  the  Limpurgergasse,  is  the 
Hau8  Silberherg,  restored  in  1898. 

The  new  buildings  (1900-1903)  were  designed  by  Von  Hoven  and 
Nefier.    The  ^Siidbau",  extending  on  the  W.  to  the  Buchgasse,  with 

15* 


228   Route  "28.  FKANKFOUT.  6.  Old  Town: 

its  lofty  tower,  is  in  the  German  Renaissance  style;  the  smallei 
''Nordbau\  which  is  connected  with  it  by  a  bridge  over  the  Beth- 
mann-Str.,  is  in  the  baroqne  style. 

Intebiob.  The  fine  vaulting  of  the  gateway  in  the  Haus  Silberberg 
and  the  winding  staircase  in  the  court  of  the  Alt  Limpurg  (160T)^  deserve 
attention.  —  From  the  front  hall  the  handsome  KaUer-freppe  (1742)  ascends 
to  the  left  to  the  — 

*KaiaerMkal(adm.freeonMon.andWed.,lC-l-,  on  other  days,  9-6,  by  ticket, 
50c.,  obtained  in  the  court),  where  the  new  emperor  dined  with  the  electors 
and  showed  himself  from  the  balcony  to  the  people  assembled  on  the  Bomer- 
berg.  The  hall,  which  is  covered  with  tunnel-vaulting  in  wood,  was  com- 
pleted in  1411,  repeatedly  restored,  and  thoroughly  renewed  in  1838-63.  It 
IS  embellished  with  Portraits  of  the  Emperors,  by  Veit,  Bend^niantty  Les- 
sinoy  Rethel,  Steinle,  and  other  artists.  Among  the  finest  are  Charlemagne 
r768-814)  by  Ph.  Veit(W.  wall),  and  Frederick  I.  Barbarossa  (1152-1190),  by 
Lessing,  a  figure  full  of  minesty  and  repose.  Above  the  portrait  of  Charle- 
magne is  the  Judgment  of  Solomon  by  Steinle  (1844).  The  marble  statue  of 
Emp.  William  I.  (d.  1888)  is  by  Kaupert  (1891).  —  We  next  enter  the  — 

Wahlzimmer  (election-room),  remodelled  in  1731-32,  where  the  electors 
met  to  deliberate  on  the  choice  of  an  emperor. 

The  new  ^Sudbau",  entered  from  the  front  hall,  contains  the  Rathskeller; 
above  this  and  adjoining  the  Wahlzimmer  is  the  Festsaal,  approached  by 
the  new  Festtreppe,  or  grand  staircase. 

The  S.  side  of  the  Rdmerberg  is  bounded  by  the  Nicolai-Kirclie 
(PI.  E,  4),  an  elegant  church  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  one  aisle  only 
(N.),  and  a  massive  tower  adjoining  the  choir.  It  was  altered  in  the 
late-Gothic  style  in  1450  and  restored  in  1842-46.  Altar-piece,  a 
Resurrection  by  Bethel, 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Romerberg  is  the  old  Fahr-Thor,  to  the 
left  of  which,  at  the  comer  of  the  quay,  rises  the  Rententhumif  a 
relic  of  the  old  fortifications  erected  in  1455.  Adjacent  is  the  Saal- 
hof  (Pl.E,  4),  built  in  1717,  and  occupying  the  site  of  an  imperial 
palace  of  that  name  ('caula  regia'),  which  was  built  by  Charlemagne 
and  renewed  by  Louis  the  Pious  in  822  (comp.  p.  224).  The  palace 
was  mortgaged  by  the  emperors  in  the  14th  cent. ,  and  was  frequently 
altered,  particularly  in  the  18th  and  19th  centuries,  so  that  no  ex- 
ternal trace  of  the  original  edifice  now  remains.  The  only  old  part 
is  the  Romanesque  chapel  (now  a  private  room). 

On  the  Main,  a  little  lower  down,  is  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  of  St.  Leonhard  (PI.  E,  4),  begun  in  1219,  probably  on  the 
site  of  the  royal  grange ,  with  a  late-Gothic  choir  built  in  1434, 
the  whole  completed  in  1507,  and  restored  in  1808-11  and  1882. 
The  two  Romanesque  towers  of  the  choir  belonged  to  the  original 
structure.  On  that  to  the  N.  is  seen  the  imperial  eagle,  said  to  have 
been  bestowed  by  Lewis  the  Bavarian  on  the  abbey  for  services  ren- 
dered to  him  in  defiance  of  the  papal  ban. 

Interior  (entr.  in  the  V.  aisle).  The  *Salvator-Ch6rlein',  or  chapel  to 
the  left  of  the  choir  (1603)^  is  notable  for  its  vaulting  with  the  detached 
ribs.  The  two  Romanesque  portals  in  the  left  aisle  formed  the  entrances 
to  the  church  before  its  extension.  Over  that  to  the  E.  is  an  old  relief. 
Ancient  mural  paintings,  including  a  Last  Judgment  (restored)  above  the 
triumphal  arch.  The  altar-piece  to  the  right  of  the  choir  is  by  Steinle. 
Adjacent,  at  the  entrance  to  the  side-chapel,  is  a  Last  Supper  by  Holbein 
the  Elder  (predella  of  the  altar-piece  mentioned  at  p.  231).  i 

.  oogle 


Cathedral.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.  229 

On  the  Untermain  Quay  fNo.  15)  is  the  Rothschild  Library,  open 
11-1  and  4-8,  Sun.  10-1. 

The  street  called  the  Markt  (PI.  E,  4)  leads  from  the  Ro- 
merherg  towards  the  E.  to  the  cathedral.  At  the  corner  of  the 
Romerherg,  on  the  right,  is  the  house  Zum  Orossen  Engel,  of  1662, 
in  the  Gothic  and  Renaissance  styles.  Behind  is  the  Niirnberger  Hof, 
a  timber-built  house  with  a  Gothic  passage  and  rich  cross-vaulting. 
To  the  left,  Markt  No.  44,  the  Steinerne  Haus,  a  castie-Uke  Gothic 
building  (1464),  with  round-arch  frieze  and  comer-turrets,  a  statue 
of  the  Virgin,  and  a  fine  vaulted  gate.  Adjacent,  in  the  narrow  court 
of  No.  30,  are  two  carved  friezes  representing  the  Fall  and  the  Pro  - 
digal  Son,  in  the  style  of  H.  S.  Beham  (16th  cent.).  Nearly  opposite 
is  the  Tuchgaden^  where  the  guild  of  butchers  offered  a  draught  of 
honour  to  the  emperor  when  proceeding  after  his  coronation  from 
the  cathedral  to  the  Romer.  Farther  on,  Markt  No.  5,  is  the  Ooldene 
Wage^  with  a  rich  facade  and  a  fine  stucco  ceiling  on  the  upper  floor. 
Opposite  is  the  Hatis  zum  Rebstock^  witli  a  picturesque  court 

The  •Cathedral  (5«.  Bartholomew;  Rom.  Oath. ;  PI.  E,  4),  origin- 
ally founded  by  Lewis  the  German  about  870  and  reconsecrated 
in  1239,  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city.  The  short  Gothic  nave  and 
aisles  date  from  the  rebuilding  In  1236-39,  the  choir  was  erected  in 
1315-38,  and  the  unusually  long  transept  in  1346-53.  The  cloisters 
were  added  in  1348-1477  and  the  tower  in  1415.  The  Wahlkapelle 
dates  from  1355,  having  apparently  been  erected  in  connection  with 
the  Golden  Bull  (p.  225) ;  the  late-Gothic  Scheidkapelle  in  the  S. 
aisle,  from  1487.  The  church  was  seriously  injured  by  a  fire  in 
August,  1867,  but  was  restored  in  1869-81  by  the  architect  Den- 
zinger.  On  that  occasion  the  vault  of  the  nave  was  raised,  the 
cloisters  were  completed  from  the  old  plans,  and  the  tower,  left  un- 
flnished  in  1512,  and  now  312  ft.  high,  was  finished  from  the  designs 
of  the  architect  Hans  von  Ingjdnheim  (1483),  which  had  been  dis- 
covered in  the  municipal  archives.  The  crowning  of  the  tower  with 
an  octagonal  cupola  surmounted  by  a  spire  is  peculiar.  In  1901-2 
all  the  buildings  surrounding  and  masking  the  cathedral  were 
cleared  away. 

Interior.  Access  to  the  church  is  obtained  by  the  N.  portal  (best  time, 
about  lO-U  s.m.,  dosed  11.80-2;  good  light  necessary).  —  In  the  N.  transept 
are  the  Tombs  of  Johann  von  Holzhausen  (d.  1393)  and  Rudolph  von 
Sachsenhausen  (d.  1370).  —  The  chapel  adjoining  the  choir  on  the  left 
contains  a  terracotta  group  of  the  Death  of  Mary,  presented  in  1480.  The 
beautiful  five-light  window  was  executed  by  Dixon,  after  an  ancient  design 
from  Cologne.  —  In  the  chapel  to  the  right  is  a  Resurrection,  conyerted 
into  an  altar  in  1855.  Adjacent  are  a  canopy  (modern  figure  of  the  Virgin) 
and  a  fine  terracotta  ciborium  (14th  cent.).  —  By  the  S.  portal  is  the  tomb 
of  Andreas  Hirde  (1518),  with  a  relief  of  the  Mocking  of  Christ.  —  The 
frescoes  in  the  transept,  by  Steinle  and  Liimemann^  represent  events  trom 
the  history  of  the  town :  the  Council  of  Frankfort  (794)  j  Reconciliation  of 
Otho  I.  and  his  brother  Duke  Henry  (941) ;  Conrad  III.  and  St.  Bernard  of 
Clairvaux  (1147);  Burial  of  Gttnther  von  Schwarzburg  (1349);  Capistrano 
preaching  repentance  (1484) ;  Albert  Achilles  of  Brandenburg  carried  into 
the  meeting  of  the  electors  (I486);  Coronation  of  Maximilian  IT.   (1664); 

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230  BouU  28.  FRANKFORT.  b.  Old  Town: 

and  the  Imperial  procession  to  the  Romer.  —  Tlie  coronation  of  the  em- 
perors used  to  be  solemnised  by  the  Elector  of  Hayence  beneath  the  creas- 
ing, originally  before  the  altar  that  stood  here  until  1711.  The  rite  of  the 
'raising  to  the  altar'  which  took  place  immediately  after  the  election,  was 
celebrated  at  the  high-altar.  To  the  right  is  the  Wahlkapelle  (election 
chapel),  where  the  actual  election  of  the  emperors  took  place;  at  the 
entrance  stands  the  beautiful  monument  of  the  German  king,  CMMher  von 
8clmarzhurg^  who  died  in  1349  at  Frankfort,  where  he  had  taken  refuge 
trom  his  opponent  Charles  IV.  The  armorial  bearings  around  it  belong 
to  the  families  who  erected  the  monument.  The  original  inscription  is  in 
old-Gorman,  the  new  one  in  Latin. 

The  Ghoib  is  generally  closed.  The  choir-stalls  date  from  1354.  Above 
them  are  ancient  frescoes  in  the  style  of  the  Cologne  school,  representing 
the  life  of  St.  Bartholomew,  dating  from  1407.  The  tabernacle  in  the  choir 
dates  from  the  early  15th  cent,  and  is  perhaps  by  Modem  Oertmer,  the  first 
architect  of  the  tower.    To  the  right  is  a  Crucifixion  by  Van  Dyck. 

The  frescoes  in  the  Navb,  by  SteinU  and  ZrtfMMmann,  represent  the 
patrons  of  the  church  and  other  sabjects.  —  The  ScMdkc^eUe  (p.  229), 
with  stained-glass  windows  after  ancient  designs,  contains  representations 
of  the  Seven  Works  of  Mercy,  executed  by  Qrdtt  from  Steinte*  designs.  — 
The  To  WES  commands  a  fine  view  (open  in  summer  7-7,  in  winter  9-4; 
adm.  25  pf.,  Wed.  A  Sat.  afternoons  free).  The  chamber  at  its  base  is 
painted  as  a  vestibule  or  ^Paradise'. 

On  the  outside  of  the  N.  wall  of  the  choir  is  a  large  Chruciflxion, 
executed  in  tufa  in  1509  for  the  Frankfort  patrician  Jacob  Heller. 

The  house  Dom-Platz  No.  4,  to  the  £.  of  the  cathedral,  bears  a 
small  relief  of  Luther^  in  memory  of  the  tradition  that  on  his  journey 
to  Worms  (p.  282)  he  preached  a  sermon  here. 

To  the  S.,Weckmarktl,  are  the  Mimicipal  Record  Office  (ilrc/itt?- 
gebdude;  PI.  E,  4),  built  In  1874-77  from  designs  \)y Denzinger^  and 
the  old  Leinwandhaus  (or  Drapers'  Hall),  dating  firom  the  end  of  the 
14th  cent.,  restored  in  1892  and  again  In  1900-2.  The  upper  story 
of  the  former  contains  the  historical  archives,  while  the  lower  story 
and  the  entire  Leinwandhaus  are  devoted  to  the  ^Municipal  His- 
torical MusBUM  (open  free  on  Sun.  and  Wed.,  10-1,  and  on  the 
1st  &  3rd  Sun.  in  each  month,  2-4;  other  days,  9-1  &  3-6,  50  pf.). 
Most  of  the  rooms  are  poorly  lighted.  Director,  O.  ComiU;  good 
*Guide'  (1902)  60  pf. 

Boom  I.  {Entrance  SaU  of  the  Archive  Building).  Municipal  banners 
(16-18th  cent.),  civic  uniforms  and  weapons  of  Frankfort;  instruments  of 
torture^  on  the  walls,  tombs  from  the  old  St.  Peter's  Cemetery  (p.  234) 
and  smith's  work;  stained  glass  of  the  14-15th  cent.;  ^Giant's  Column* 
from  Heddemheim.  —  Boom  II.  Ethnographic  Collection.  —  Boom  III. 
Costumes  of  citizens  from  1700  to  1860;  Frankfort  official  costumes;  doll's 
house  (1748);  local  costumes  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Frankfort;  peasant's 
room  from  Hesse.  —  Boom  IV.  Egyptian  Collection;  Graeco-Italic  vases  and 
bronzes ;  objects  from  lake-dwellings  in  Switserland ;  objects  from  tumuli 
in  the  vicinity  of  Frankfort.  —  Boom  V.  Boman ,  Frankisb,  and  early- 
German  antiquities;  vases,  bronzes,  glass,  large  Mithras-relief;  Greek, 
Etruscan,  and  Boman  helmets.  —  Boom  VI.  Armour  and  wei^ons.  —  In 
the  Passags  leading  to  the  Leinwandhaus  are  smaller  weapons. 

Boom  VII.  On  the  ceiling,  two  large  eagles  from  a  canopy  used  at 
coronations;  eagle  from  the  fountain  on  the  B5merberg  (p.  22 0;  guild- 
banners,  guild-signs;  state  coaches  and  sleighs,  an  early  type  of  veloci- 
pede, etc.  —  Chap£l  (formerly  the  Debtors'  Prison).  Old  choir -stalls 
(1622)  and  pulpit;  stained  glass  (13th  cent.).  —  Through  the  corridor  to 
the  right  we  reach  Boom  VIII,  which  contains  ^Paintings  by  early-German 
masters  (16-16th  cent.),  etc.    Ou  the  main  wall  to  the  right  are  16  sections 


Histor.  Museum.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route,   231 

of  a  lai^e  altar-piece  (the  Passion)  painted  in  the  studio  of  Sans  HoWein 
the  Elder  in  1501  for  the  former  Dominican  church.  2nd  Central  Section : 
320-335.  Lotaer  Rhenish  School.  Series  ot  paintings  (end  of  the  16ih  cent.),  from 
the  Carmelite  church.  3rd  Section:  Conrad  FyoUi'i)^  269.  Virgin  and  Child 
\rith  St.  Anna,  260,  261.  Birth  and  Death  of  the  Virgin;  265.  Old  copy, 
by  Jobtt  Harrich  of  liuremberg,  of  Diirer*t  celebrated  Assumption,  which  was 
painted  in  1509  for  Jacob  Heller,  purchased  in  1615  by  Elector  Maximilian 
of  Bavaria,  and  destroyed  by  fire  at  Munich  in  1674  (the  wings  are  the 
originiJ  productions  of  Diirer^s  studio).  4th  Section :  273-275.  Sems  Baldung 
Orien^  Baptism  of  Christ.  On  the  rear-wall :  no  number,  Style  of  Rogier 
van  dtr  Weyden,  Small  altar-piece  \  303,  309.  M.  GHlnewaldy  SS.  Cyriac  and 
Lawrence  (grisaille);  299.  Franconian  School^  Presentatioa  in  the  Temple 
(16ih  cent.).  In  this  room  are  also  chests  and  cabinets  (15-17th  cent.), 
small  examples  of  ecclesiastical  art  (12-16th  cent.),  albums  (17-18th  cent.), 
and  patents  of  nobility  (18-i9th  cent.).  —  Through  the  corridor  to  the  right 
we  reach  Room  IX.  Portraits  of  citizens  of  Frankfort  (17-18th  cent.), 
ecclesiastical  vestments  (14-18th  cent.),  etc.  —  Boom  X.  Zinc,  copper,  and 
brass  work  (17-19th  cent.),  musical  instruments  (16-19th  cent.),  etc.  »  We 
turn  back  to  the  Gosridos.  The  glass-cases  contain  articles  connected 
with  the  Jewish  ritual,  mediaeval  church  utensils,  guild  paraphernalia, 
astronomical  and  optical  instruments,  and  the  old  standard  weights  and 
measures  of  Frankfort  when  a  free  city.  -^  Stabicase:  Old  views  and 
plans  of.Frankfort. 

First  Floor.  The  cabinets  in  the  Cosbidob  contain  masonic  insignia, 
views  of  Frankfort,  seals,  coins,  etc.  Among  the  old  documents  is  the  ^Golden 
Buir  (see  p.  224).  rortraits  of  emperors;  Coronation  of  Josephl. — Boom  XI. 
Iron-work  ;90erman  stoneware  and  fayence;  Italian  majolica;  guild  bowls 
and  goblets ;  table-service  by  Wengel  Jamniixer  of  Nuremberg.  The  corner 
cabinet  represents  a  citisen^s  room  of  the  18th  century.  —  We  return  through 
the  corridor  to  Room  XII.  1st  Cabinet :  French  stove  in  the  ^JEmpire'  style ; 
room  from  the  Neue  Krame  in  the  same  style;  ivory  carvings;  paintings 
by  Frankfori  artists  (17-19th  cent.).  2ad  A  3rd  Cab. :  Paintings,  the  best 
of  which  (beside  the  first  window  in  Cab.  3)  is  a  Madonna  in  an  arbour  of 
roses,  of  the  ScTwol  of  Meister  Wilhelm  of  Cologne  (d.  1378).  Here  are  also 
watches  (i8-19th  cent.),  snuff-boxes,  and  trinkets  (17-19th  cent.).  —  Boom  XIII. 
Glass  (15-I9th  cent.).  1st  Cab. :  Views  of  Frankfort,  including  a  Panorama 
of  Frankfort  in  l8il,  by  MorgentUm  (pen-and-ink  sketch);  miniatures. 
2nd  Gab.:  Room  from  the  Krnggasse;  in  the  centre  a  French  pianoforte 
in  the  'Empire'  style.  3rd  Cab. :  Fans ;  memorials  of  Borne,  the  author 
(p.  23i). 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  cathedral,  in  the  Fahrgasee,  is  the  late- 
Gothic  Hau8  zum  Furtteneck  (No.  17).  —  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
Fahrgasse,  with  its  plctaresqne  old  houses,  is  the  Old  Bridge 
(PI.  F,  4)  over  the  Main,  constructed  of  red  sandstone  and  870  ft. 
In  length.  It  Is  mentioned  In  a  document  of  1222,  hut  has  heen 
several  times  restored.  The  middle  of  the  hridge  Is  embellished 
with  a  Statue  of  Charlemagne  (1843).  Near  it  is  a  medissval  iron 
cross,  with  a  figure  of  Christ.  The  presence  of  the  cock  which  sur- 
mounts It  is  explained  hy  the  tradition,  that  a  cock  hecame  the 
victim  of  a  yow  made  hy  the  architect,  to  sacrifice  to  the  devil  the 
first  living  being  that  crossed  the  hridge.  •—  For  Sachsenhausen, 
see  p.  236. 

The  quay  flanked  with  lofty  houses ,  which  extends  along  the 
right  hank  of  the  river,  is  called  the  Schone  Aussicht  (PL  F,  4). 
A  tablet  on  No.  17  indicates  the  house  in  which  the  philosophp- 
Arthur  Schopenhauer  (1788-1860)  lived  in  1843-59  (the  dates  on 
tablet  are  wrong).    At  the  upper  end,  the  Upper  Main  Bridge^  1 


232   Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  c.  Norlhern  Part 

in  1878  by  Lauter,  crosses  the  river.  In  front  of  it  are  a  Bust  of  Les^ 
sing^  in  marble,  by  Kanpert,  and  the  — 

^  Town  Library  (PL  G,  4),  built  by  Hess  In  1820-25,  with  a  con- 
spicuous Corinthian  portico,  and  altered  and  enlarged  in  1891-98  by 
Wol/f.  On  the  attic  stories  of  the  wings  are  eight  statues  of  pro- 
minent citizens  of  Frankfort;  and  in  the  pediment  is  a  fine  group 
by  Schierholz.   Director,  Prof,  Fr.  Ebrard. 

In  the  Intbbior,  at  the  foot  of  the  staircaae,  is  a  marble  Statue  of 
Ooethe,  by  P.  Marchesi  (1838),  besides  which  there  are  bnets  in  marble  of 
Brentano,  Bdhmer,  Bavigny^  and  other  Frankfort  celebrities.  The  ceiling- 
painting  is  by  F.  Kirehbach.  —  The  library  contains  about  215,000  vols., 
an  exhibition  of  valuable  HSS.,  printed  wot^b,  bindings,  etc.  (the  latter 
open  free,  week-days  10-12,  Sun.  and  holidays  11-1  j  catalogue  10  pf.).  The 
handsome  Reading  Room.,  with  an  extensive  reference  library  and  a  good 
supply  of  newspapers,  is  open  on  Mon -Frid.  ^O-l  and  4-8,  Sat.  10-1. 

At  the  back  of  the  Library,  Lange-Str.  No.  4,  is  the  Hospital  of 
the  Holy  Ohost,  In  the  grounds  adjoining  the  Rechnel-Graben  (pond ; 
PI.  G,  3,  4)  Is  a  Bust  of  Schopenhauer  (p.  231),  erected  In  1895. 
From  the  Rechnel-Graben  the  Rechneigraben-Strasse  leads  to  the 
W.  to  the  Borne-Platz,  in  which  is  a  Synagogue  ^  built  in  1881.  At 
the  N.W,  corner  of  the  square  diverges  the  Borne-Strasse  (PI.  F,  3), 
formerly  the  Judengasse,  the  dingy  houses  of  which  have  been 
removed  with  the  exception  of  the  old  House  of  the  Rothschild  Family 
(No.  26,  to  the  right). 

Down  to  the  regime  of  the  Prince  Primate  (p.  225)  in  1806,  the  Juden- 
gasse, or  Jews'  Street,  was  closed  every  evening,  and  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  throughout  the  whole  day,  with  lock  and  key,  and  no  Jew  might 
venture  into  any  part  of  the  town  under  a  heavy  penalty.  In  spite  of 
this  tyranny,  many  denizens  of  these  squalid  purlieus  flourished,  and  among 
fhem  the  now  enormously  wealthy  Rothschild  famify. 

At  the  end  of  the  BSme-Strasse  stands  the  old  Synagogue^ 
erected  by  Kayser  in  1855-60.  The  Bornheimer-Strasse  leads  hence, 
joining  the  Fahrgasse  (p.  231),  to  the  Zeil  (p.  226). 

c.  Northern  Fart  of  the  Inner  Town. 

From  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Rossmarkt  (p.  225)  the  Grosse 
Gallus-Strasse  (PI.  D,  3,  4)  leads  to  the  old  Taunus  Gate.  To  the 
left  is  the  house  (No.  19;  memorial  tablet)  In  which  Otto  von  Bis- 
marck lived  when  Prussian  ambassador  to  the  Diet  In  1852-58.  — 
At  the  end  of  the  street  we  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Nbub  Mainzer 
Strassb,  in  which,  to  the  left  (No.  49),  stands  the  building  of  the 
Polytechnic  Soiiety^  containing  (on  the  1st  floor)  the  *Miiseam  of 
Art  and  Industry  (PI.  0,  3),  a  collection  of  considerable  value  (open 
10-5,  on  Sun.  &  holidays  10-1.30;  adm.  50  pf.,  free  on  Sun.  &Wed. ; 
closed  on  Mon.). 

Boom  I.  Modem  art.  Medals  and  plaquettes  by  Roty^  Chc^lain^  and 
others.   Acquisitions  from  the  Paris  Exhibition  (1800). 

Boom  II.,  with  Benaissance  panelling.  Book-bindings,  from  the  Gothic 
period  onward;  leather  hangings  (n-i9th  cent.).  —  Boom  III.  *Panelling 
from  the  Ilaus  zum  Fursteaeck  (p.  13  U),  dating  from  1615  (ceiling  only  a 
plaster  cast). 

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of  Inner  Toxm.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route,   233 

Rooms  IV  &  V.  Plaster  casts.  —  Room  VI.  Exhibilions  (changed 
periodically)  from  the  Library  (see  below).  We  turn  back  to  Room  I 
and  enter  — 

Room  VII.  Iron-work:  railings,  door-knockers,  locks,  keys,  etc.  — 
Room  VIII.    Costly  stuffs,  including  Coptic  fabrics  of  the  5-8th  centaries. 

Boom  IX.  Wood-carvings;  tapestry  (15th  cent.).  In  Sec.  A:  elaborately 
carved  Renaissance  cabinet  from  Lyons  (16th  cent.)  ^  Italian  wedding-chests 
(if  the  early  Renaissance  (ca.  1480);  Florentine  ciborium,  in  the  style  of 
Desidei-io  da  Settlgnano;  Italian  majolica,  including  a  plaque  from  Faenza, 
representing  the  Crucifixion,  after  an  engraving  by  AgosUno  de"  Musi  (1521), 
a  pupil  of  Marcantonio;  Italian  Renaissance  door-knockers.  Sec.  B :  German 
and  Dutch  Renaissance  furniture  (16-1 7th  cent.):  inlaid  cupboard  from 
Bothenburg  (2nd  half  of  i6th  cent.),  Dutch  oak  linen -chest  (ca.  1600); 
ebony  drug-chest  from  Augsburg  (17th  cent.);  German  stoneware.  Sec.  C: 
furniture  (17ih  and  early  18th  cent.) ;  'Altar  of  the  Prelates',  from  Mayence 
(1720),  with  fine  intarsiawork  and  (modern)  silver  reliefs;  Entombment,  a 
relief  in  lead  by  R.  Donner.    In  the  centre,  modern  and  other  glass. 

Room  X.  Furniture  and  carvings  (18th  cent.),  including  a  rococo 
console-table  (ca.  1720) ;  German,  French,  and  Delft  fayence ;  English  stone- 
ware; fine  porcelain  from  Hochst.  —  Room  XI.  Oriental  work:  Persian 
and  Turkish  fayence;  Persian  glass  (18-lbth  cent.)  and  tiles  (13-16th  cent); 
Spanish-Mauresque  majolica;  Japanese  pottery,  lacquer-work,  and  bronzes. 
On  the  walls,  Oriental  fabrics. 

Room  XII.  Linel  Collection  of  furniture,  porcelain,  etc. :  Dutch  cabinet 
in  red  lacquer  (I8th  cent.);  French  escritoire  in  the  style  of  Louis  XVI.; 
Dresden  and  Frankenthal  porcelain  (* Allegorical  Group) ;  works  in  tin  ; 
German  stoneware;  two  'Reliefs,  in  ivory,  wood,  and  marble,  by  Saber- 
#/«mp/ (171-4 ;  Susanna,  Joseph  and  Potiphar's  Wife).  —  Watches,  snuff-boxes, 
and  trinkets. 

Room  XIII.  Works  in  metal.  In  the  centre,  reproductions  of  old  gold 
and  silver  plate.  In  the  wall-cabinet,  small  antique  works  of  art;  repro- 
ductions of  the  silver  treasures  found  at  Hildesheim  and  Boscoreale.  —  The 
articles  exhibited  in  Rooms  XIV  and  XV  are  periodically  changed. 

The  adjoining  building  on  the  left  contains,  on  the  Ist  floor,  the 
Library  of  Art  and  Industry  (open  Tues.  to  Sat.,  10-1  and  6-9,  In 
winter  also  on  Sun.,  10-1 ;  Director,  Dr.  Stader). 

Farther  on  are  the  Bank  of  Trade  and  Indufftry  (I.),  the  Imperial 
J5anfc(r.),  and  the  Frankfort  Bank  (1.).  —  In  the  Junghof-Str.,  which 
here  diverges  to  the  right,  are  the  Saalhau^  by  H.  Bumitz,  for  con- 
certs and  balls  (Nos.  19,  20),  the  Deutsche- Vereins-Bank  (No.  11), 
and  the  Frankfort  Art  Union  (No.  8;  adm.,  see  p.  224).  The 
Junghof-Str.  ends  at  the  Rossmarkt  (p.  225). 

Near  the  old  Bockenheimer  Thor  rises  the  magnificent  "'Opera 
Honse  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  designed  by  Lucae  (d.  1877),  and  opened  in 
1880.  It  can  accommodate  2000  spectators.  The  sculptures  in  the 
pediment  in  front  are  by  Kaupert^  those  at  the  back  by  Rumpf,  both 
of  Frankfort.  Most  of  the  mural  paintings  in  the  interior  were  exe- 
cuted from  cartoons  by  Steinle ;  the  drop-scene,  representing  the 
Prologue  to  Faust,  is  by  Beer  and  Grdtz  (after  Steinle) ;  and  the 
proscenium-frieze  by  0.  Donner  von  Richier.  —  Opposite  the  Opera 
House,  in  th#  Taunus  Promenade  (p.  234),  is  a  Monument  to  Emp. 
William  /.,  by  Buscher,  erected  in  1896.  —  From  the  Opern-PIatz 
to  the  Palm  Garden,  see  p.  235. 

We  now  return  through  the  Grosse-Bockenheimer-Str.  or  the 
new  and  busy  Qoethe-Strasse  (PI.  D,  3)  to  the  Theater-Platz  (p.  226). 

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234  Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  d.  Promenades 

The  Borsen-Str.  leads  hence  to  the  left  to  the  New  Exchange  (^Neue 
Borse;  PI.  D,  3),  built  by  Bumitz  and  Sommer  in  1879,  with  a 
handsome  Renaissance  hall  (business-hours  12-2).  The  N.E.  and 
W.  galleries  contain  a  Commercial  Museum  (9-6,  adm.  50  pf.).  —  The 
modest  house  at  the  end  of  the  B8rsen-Str.  (No.  19)  is  the  pro- 
visional abode  of  the  Academy  of  Social  and  Commercial  Science 
(founded  in  1901). 

The  SchlUer-Str.,  which  starts  from  the  Schiller-Platz  (p.  225) 
and  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  Borsen-Platz,  leads  to  the  old  Eschen- 
heimer  Thor  (PI.  D,  2).  The  circular  Eschenlieiiiier  Tharm  (PI.  D, 
E,  2),  erected  in  1400-28  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  square  tower, 
is  the  finest  of  the  few  ancient  tower  -  gateways  of  the  city  now 
extant.  —  In  the  Bleich-Str.,  a  few  yards  to  the  E.  of  the  tower, 
is  the  Senckenberg  Institution  (PL  E,  2 ;  open  free  on  Sun.  and 
Frid.,  11-1,  and  Wed.,  2-4;  on  other  days  fee  50-75  pf.),  founded 
in  1763  by  Johann  Christian  Senckenberg,  a  physician  of  Frankfort. 
It  comprises  a  fine  Natural  History  Collection,  a  Library,  a  Botanic 
Garden,  an  Anatomical  Theatre,  and  a  Hospital, 

Farther  along  the  Bleich-Str.  stands  the  Protestant  Chnroh  of 
St.  Peter  (PI.  E,  2;  1893-95),  built  and  fitted  up  in  the  Renais- 
sance style  that  prevailed  in  N.  Germany  at  the  period  of  the  Refor- 
mation. The  tower  is  265  ft.  in  height.  The  principal  entrance  is 
in  the  Bleich-Str.  The  S.  termination  of  the  terrace ,  behind  the 
choir  of  St.  Peter's,  is  formed  by  a  "War  Monument,  erected  in  1878 
to  the  memory  of  the  natives  of  Frankfort  who  fell  in  1870-71,  cast 
in  bronze  from  a  model  by  Eckhard,  —  To  the  S.  is  the  old  St.  Pbtbk^s 
Cbmbtbby  (Pl.E,  2)  containing  the  tomb  of  Goethe's  mother  (p.  226) 
and  an  ancient  group  of  the  Crucifixion. 

We  now  either  return  by  the  Schafergasse  to  the  Zeil  (p.  226), 
or  proceed  to  the  N.E.  along  the  Vilbeler-Strasse  to  the  old  Fried- 
herger  Thor  (PI.  F,  2;  p.  235). 

d.  The  Promenades  and  Outer  Quarters  of  the  City. 

The  Pbomenades  (p.  224)  encircling  the  old  town  are  embel- 
lished with  statues  of  eminent  and  patriotic  citizens  of  Frankfort 
(names,  see  Plan).  Among  them  may  be  singled  out  that  of  Senator 
Ouiollet,  creator  of  the  Promenades,  in  the  Taunus  Promenade  (PI.  0, 
3,  4 ;  band  in  summer,  12-i),  near  the  Emperor  William  Monument 
(p.  233),  and  Ludwig  Borne  (1786-1837),  the  author,  by  Kaupert, 
in  the  Bockenheim  Promenade  (PI.  0,  D,  2). 

In  the  Gallus  Promenade  (p.  225  rises  the  New  Theatre  (PI.  D,  4), 
built  in  1900-2  after  designs  by  H.  Seeling.  It  holAs  1200  spec- 
tators. The  sculptured  figures  and  reliefs  on  the  facades  are  in- 
spired by  Goethe's  'DichtungundWahrheit';  the  *Dichtung'  group  on 
the  main  facade  and  the  reliefs  on  the  S.  facade  are  "by  Vamesi,  while 
the  'Wahrheit'  group  and  the  reliefs  on  the  N.  fa^adejare  by  Haus- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


and  duUr  Quarters.      FliANKFORT.  28.  BouU.  235 

mann.  The  sculptures  in  the  pediment  are  by  Klimsch.  The  promi- 
nent gilded  dome,  169  ft  high,  is  surmounted  hy  a  copper  statue 
10  ft.  in  height,  representing  Frankfort  as  Protector  of  the  Arts, 
after  Herold.    A  garden  and  a  large  restaurant  adjoin  the  theatre. 

In  the  Bockenheimer  Landstrasse,  1  M.  from  the  old  Bocken- 
heimer  Thor  (p.  233 ;  electric  tramways),  is  situated  the  Talm  Garden 
(PI.  A,  i),  a  pleasant  park  containing  a  large  palm-house,  extensive 
conservatories,  a  rose-garden,  cycling  track,  lawn  tennis  courts  (skat- 
ing in  winter),  etc.  Adm.  1  Jf,  Sun.  50  pf.  Concerts  in  the  afternoon 
and  evening.  ^Restaurant,  see  p.  222.  —  In  the  Beethoven-Strasse, 
to  the  left  of  the  Bockenheim  road,  is  the  ChrUtus- Kirche  (PL  A,  2), 
built  by  Kauffmann  iu  1883.  —  The  Brentano-Platz  (PI.  B,  2) 
contains  a  monument  to  Clemens  Brentano  (1778-1842),  the  poet. 

Outside  the  Eschenheimer  Thor,  at  Eschersheimer  Landstrasse 
No.  4  (railway  to  Eschersheim,  see  p.  223),  is  Dr.  Hock's  Corner- 
vatorium  of  Music. 

The  Eckenheimer  Landstrasse  (PI.  F,  1:  electric  tramway,  see  p.  223), 
diverging  to  the  N.  from  the  Eschenheim  Fromenade,  leads  to  the  (1  H.) 
Cemetery,  which  it  entered  by  a  Doric  colonnade  with  an  imposing  gate 
and  contains  a  number  of  well-executed  monuments. 

The  Abcades  on  the  £.  side  contain  the  vaults  of  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal families  of  Frankfort.  Kear  the  middle  is  a  relief  by  Fradier.  The 
last  vault  to  the  left  (key  kept  by  the  custodian  ^  60  pf.),  belonging  to  the 
von  Bethmann  family,  contains  an  admirable  *Belief  by  Thorvaldten  to  the 
memory  of  a  Herr  von  Bethmann  who  died  at  Florence  (1812)  of  an  illness 
caused  by  his  exertions  on  the  occasion  of  a  fire  at  Baden  near  Vienna. 

On  the  N.  side  rises  the  Mausoleum  of  Elector  William  II.  of  liesse 
(d.  1847)  by  Husemer^  containing  a  crucifix  in  marble  by  Zwerger^  and  two 
marble  sarcophagi  with  lifesize  figures  of  the  prince  and  his  wife  by 
Launitt,  Two  other  monuments  near  it  are  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers 
and  insurgents  who  fell  in  1848.  To  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  is  the 
tomb  of  the  philosopher  Schopenhauer  (d.  1860). 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  new  cemetery  is  the  Jewish  Burial 
Ground,  open  daily  except  Saturdays.  On  the  K.  side  is  a  large  marble 
sarcophagus  with  Hebrew  inscriptions,  by  LavniU.  to  the  memory  of  Carl 
M.  von  Bothtchild  (d.  1855). 

The  Hessian  Monument  (PI.  F,  2),  outside  the  Friedberger 
Thor,  was  erected  by  Frederick  William  II.  of  Prussia  to  the  Hes- 
sians who  fell  on  2nd  Pec,  1792,  in  the  attack  on  Frankfort,  then 
occupied  by  the  French  under  General  Custine. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Friedberg  road  is  Bethmann^s  Mu- 
seum (PI.  F,  2 ;  open  in  summer  10-1  and  3-5,  on  Sun.  &  holidays 
and  in  winter  11-1  j  fee  60-76  pf.),  a  circular  building  containing 
several  sculptures,  among  them  ""Ariadne  on  the  panther  (1814),  the 
masterpiece  of  Dannecker  of  Stuttgart  (d.  1841). — The  Luther-Kirche 
(PI.  G,  1)  was  built  in  1894,  after  plans  by  Kauffmann  and  Neher. 

On  the  former  Pfingstweide,  outside  the  Friedberg  Promenade, 
and  reached  by  electric  tramways  Nos.  1  &  6  (p.  223),  is  the 
^Zoological  Garden  (PI.  H,  2,  3 ;  Bestaurant)^  with  its  extensive 
grounds,  large  assembly  hall,  and  terrace.  The  tower  commands  a 
fine  *\riew.  In  the  sunk  floor  of  the  artificial  ruin  is  a  salt-water 
aquarium  (50  pf.).  Adm.  1  Jf ;  concerts  in  the  afternoon  and  even- 


2^6   RouU  28,  FRANKFORT.  e,  Sachsenhausen: 

ing.  —  The  Sckutzenhrunnen  in  the  square  to  the  W.  of  the  Zoological 
Gardens  commemorates  the  'Schiitzenfeste',  or  national  rifle  com- 
petitions, held  at  Frankfort  in  1862  and  1887. 

e.  SadLsenhansen. 

On  the  left  hank  of  the  Main  lies  the  suhurh  of  SachsenhauBen 
(p.  224),  said  to  have  heen  founded  hy  Charlemagne,  and  assigned 
hy  him  as  a  residence  to  conquered  Saxons.  To  the  left,  on  the 
Main,  is  the  Deutsch-Ordenshaus  (PI.  F,  5),  or  House  of  the  Teu- 
tonic Order,  erected  in  1709.  A  little  to  the  E.  are  the  large  Cattle 
Market  and  Slaughter  Home,  To  the  right  is  the  Church  of  the 
Magi  (PI.  E,  4),  rehuilt  by  Denzinger. 

Farther  down  the  river,  on  the  handsome  Schaumain  Quay,  is 
the  *8t&del  Art  Institute  (PI.  D,  5),  an  establishment  to  which 
Frankfort  owes  its  high  rank  In  the  artistic  world.  It  was  founded 
by  Joh,  Fried.  Stddel  (d.  1816),  a  citizen  of  Frankfort,  who  be- 
queathed his  pictures  and  engravings,  his  houses,  and  his  fortune 
to  the  town,  in  order  to  found  a  School  of  Art  (now  attended  by 
about  200  students).  The  collections,  which  are  continually  being 
added  to,  consist  of  pictures,  engravings,  and  drawings  by  eminent 
masters,  and  numerous  casts.  The  handsome  building  now  occupied 
by  the  collections  was  erected  with  the  surplus  funds  of  the  institu- 
tion from  the  designs  of  Oscar  Sommer^  and  was  opened  in  1878. 
It  consists  of  a  large  central  building  in  the  Italian  Renaissance 
style,  with  a  fine  portal  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps,  a 
dome,  and  two  projecting  wings.  The  material  is  gray  sandstone. 
The  six  large  reliefs  above  the  round -arched  windows  are  very 
effective.  Open  daily  except  Mon.;  free  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Frid.,  & 
Sat.  10-1,  Sun.  11-1,  &  Wed.  11-4,  at  other  times  i  Jf ;  catalogue 
1  Jf,  Director,  Dr,  H.  Weizsdcker^  the  first  volume  of  whose  elab- 
orate catalogue  (the  old  masters;  ^^j^Jf)  was  issued  in  1900. 

Ground  Floor.  The  octagonal  Vbstibdlb  contains  casts  from  the 
tomb  of  Maximilian  I.  at  Innsbrack.  —  The  rooms  to  the  left  of  this  are 
devoted  to  the  Libraiy  and  the  collections  of  Drawings  and  Engravings ; 
the  latter  collection,  containing  60,000  specimens,  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Germany  (adm.  Taes.-Sat.  11-1,  and,  except  Thurs.,  5-7).  —  The  rooms 
on  the  right  contain  Casts  of  ancient,  mediaeval,  and  Renaissance  sculp- 
tures. In  the  middle  of  the  room  are  a  few  Greek  vases  and  (No.  131)  a 
*Shield  of  Hercules  in  bronze,  modelled  by  L.  von  Sehwanthaler  from  He- 
siod's  description.  The  ante-room  to  the  left  contains  (Ko.  99)  a  Terra- 
cotta Altar  ascribed  to  Giorgio  AndreoU  of  Gubbio  (1511 ;  colouring  revived) 
nd  a  "^Madonna  (in  sandstone)  by  T.  Riemensehneider  (Ko.  126),  probably 
the  most  perfect  single  figure  by  that  master. 

Upper  Floor.  Straight  in  front  of  the  staircase  we  enter  an  Antx-Koom 
containing  a  bust  of  Stadel,  by  Zwerger^  and  a  few  casts.  The  other  rooms 
are  occupied  by  the  — 

**Picture  Gallery  (the  old  masters  on  the  left  and  the  modern 
works  on  the  right).  It  is  especially  rich  in  specimens  of  the  early-Flemish 
School  (15th  cent. ;  Boom  III)  and  in  Dutch  paintings  of  the  17th  century. 
The  gem  of  the  numerous  North  Italian  works  of  the  16-16th  cent,  is 
the  splendidly  coloured  masterpiece  of  Moretto  (No.  46 ,  Koom  II).  The 
early -German    schools    are    scantily    represented.     Among    the    modem 


Stddel  OaUery.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.   237 

works  are  numerous  paintings  of  the  older  Diisseldorf  School,  and  of  the 
so-called  ^lTazarenes%  of  whom  Ovevbeck  at  Rome  was  the  chief,  as  well 
as  a  few  examples  of  other  German  and  foreign  masters  recently  added.  — 
The  names  of  the  artists  appear  on  the  picture- frames. 

To  the  left  of  the  staircase,  through  Corridor  X,  we  enter  — 
Room  I  (comer-room).  Early  Spanish  and  Italian  Masters  (14-15th  cent,)- 
la.  Spanish  School,  Madonna,  from  Teruel  (ca.  1400)  \  7.  Fra  Angelica,  Ma- 
donna enthroned  with  angelic  musicians*,  15.  Fiorenzo  di Lorenzo y  Madonna 
enthroned,  with  SS.  Christopher  and  Sehastian;  33,  34.  Carlo  CriveUi,  An- 
nunciation (parts  of  a  large  altar-piece  now  at  Milan).  Also  several  Flor 
entine  reliefs  of  the  Madonna  (15th  cent.). 

Room  II.  Italian  and  Spanish  Masters.  To  the  left:  48a.  THtianO), 
Portrait-,  *57.  Velazquez^  Cardinal  Gaspar  Borgia,  marked  hy  delicacy  of 
psychological  characterization  and  yigorous  colouring  \  58.  Velazquez  (studio- 
piece),  The  Infanta  Margarita,  daughter  of  Philip  IV.  and  consort  of 
Emp.  Leopold  I. ;  *58a.  Coello,  Charles  11.  of  Spain.  —  20.  Lombard  School 


(Bart.  Veneto?),  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria-,  39.  Oima  da  Conegliano, 
Madonna  -,  69.  Spagnoletto,  Susannah  5  •42.  Parmigianino,  Portrait  of  a  lady  ^ 
**46.  MorettOy  Madonna  with  the  four  Latin  Church  Fathers,  SS.  Gregory, 
Jerome,  Amhrose,  and  Augustine  (damaged  to  some  extent) ;  16.  Perugino, 
Madonna;  19.  Macrino  d'Alba,  Triptych  for  an  altar  ('a  tempera'):  the 
Virgin,  with  SS.  Joachim  and  Anna  on  her  left,  and  on  her  right  St.  Joachim 
receiving  the  promise.  —  47.  Moroni,  Dominican  monk;  22a.  Correggio, 
Madonna  of  Gasalmaggiore  (spoiled);  52.  Canaletto,  Palace  of  the  Doges  at 
Venice.  —  9.  Verrocchio,  Madonna  and  Child  (studio-piece) ;  14a.  A.  Bronzino^ 
Portrait;  44.  JUoretto,  Madonna  enthroned,  with  SS.  Anthony  and  Sebastian ; 
18.  Bat^.  VenetOy  Portrait. 

Room  III  fto  the  right  of  Room  II.),  Earlier  Flemish  and  German 
Masters  (15-l6th  cent.).  To  the  left  of  the  entrance:  •'*98.  Jan  van  Eyck, 
^Madonna  of  Lucca\  formerly  in  the  possession  of  the  Duke  of  Lucca; 
•99.  Petrus  Cristus  (a  pupil  of  Jan  van  Eyck),  Madonna  (1457);  110.  Gerard 
Dcmd,  Annunciation;  101.  Rogier  van  der  Weyden,  Three  sections  of  an 
altar-piece  of  St.  John  (replicas  of  the  paintings  in  the  Berlin  Museum); 
Matter  of  FUmalle,  103.  St.  Veronica,  *104.  Virgin  and  Child,  1C2.  (opposite), 
Trinity  (grisaille,  parts  of  a  large  altar-piece  from  Fl^malle),  105.  Penitent 
Thief  (fragment  of  a  larger  picture).  —  Entrance-wall:  108a.  Dirk  Bouts^ 
Maddiiia  and  Child ;  •100  Rogier  van  der  Weyden^  Virgin  with  88.  Peter,  John 
the  Baptist,  COsmas,  and  Damian,  probably  painted  about  1460  for  the  Medici 
in  Florence;  108.  Gerard  David,  St.  Jerome  before  the  Cross;  *97.  Dirk  Bouts, 
The  Tiburtine  Sibyl  foretelling  the  birth  of  Christ  to  the  Emp.  Augustus. 


238    Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  e.  Sacheenhauscn: 

Cabinets  IV  (4c  Y).  Mostly  ITetherl&ndish  and  German  works  of  the 
16th  century.  93.  Matter  of  the  Death  of  the  Virfftn,  Pieti,  St.  Veronica, 
.Toseph  of  Arimathna  (a  triptych ;  1524).  —  Cab.  V:  L.  Cranaeh  theJWer^ 
87.  Graciflxion,  88.  Venus  (1532);  73.  ffans  Baldung  Orien,  Witches* 
Sabbath  (1523);  71.  French  School  (16th  cent.),  Portrait;  85.  A.  JHtrer,  Girl 
of  the  Fttrleger  family  (copy  of  the  Angsbnrg  picture;  freely  retondbed); 
95,  96.  Barth.  Bruyn  the  Elder,  Portraits;  107.  MemlingCl),  118.  Q.  UaUptO}, 
Portraits ;  83.  A.  DUrer  (?),  JoVs  wife  pouring  water  on  him  to  alleyiate 
his  sufferings;  337.  Adam  Eltheimer,  Paul  and  Barnabas  at  Lystra  (early 
work);  *71.  Solbein  the  Younger y  Sir  George  of  (Cornwall,  holding  a  carnation. 

Cab.  VI  (VII,  &  VIII).  Netherlandish  and  German  Works  (t7th  cent.), 
288.  /.  van  der  ffeyde,  Chateau  oi  Loenersloot  (figures  by  A.  van  der  Velde) ; 
205.  Adr,  van  Ostade,  Bam  (1656);  284  a.  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger.  Sea- 
niece  ;  *320.  Adr.  van  de  Velde^  Meadow  beside  a  forest  (early  work ;  1668) ; 
243.  8.  de  VUeger,  The  salute;  153.  David  Tenters  the  Younger^  The  smoker; 
204.  Oerard  Terhwrg,  Woman  drinking  wine  (damaged);  •338.  A.  EUhtifoer^ 
I.andscape  with  Bacchus  and  nymphs ;  310.  Ph.  Wouverman^  Cavalier  at  the 
door  of  a  tavern.  —  Cab.  VII:  157  c.  Teniere  the  Younger ,  Amoretti  in  the 
workshop  of  an  alchemist;  308 a.  A.  Cugp,  Dutch  landscape;  *147,  *148. 
A.  Broutcer,  Operations  on  peasants ;  Jan  Steen,  216.  Alchemist  about  to 
throw  his  last  thaler  and  the  silver  ornaments  of  his  weeping  wife  into  the 
crucible,  *215.  Man  jesting  with  a  girl;  208.  Oer.  Dou,  Girl  with  a  candle 
preparing  supper.  —  Cab.  VIII. :  152.  Teniers  the  Younger,  St.  Jerome.  — 
To  the  right  is  — 

Room  IX.  Netherlandish  Masters  of  the  17th  century.  To  the  left  of  the 
door:  183.  Rembrandt,  David  and  Saul  (ca.  1633);  260.  Everdinaen,  Storm 
at  sea.  ~  *399a.  TUOibein,  Goethe  in  the  Campagna  (1787).  —  195.  Th.  de 
Keyter^  Equestrian  portrait ;  184.  F.  Bol,  Portrait  (1644) ;  155.  Tenters  the 
Younger,  Rustic  tavern ;  244.  S.  van  Rupsdael^  The  ferry ;  •173,  •174.  Fremt 
JTals,  Man  and  his  wife  (1638);  181.  School  of  Rembrandt,  Parable  of  the 
Labourers  in  the  Vineyard  (signature  forged) j  •149.  A.  Broutoer.  A  bitter 
potion;  Tenters  the  Younger,  151.  (3attle,  166.  Companionpicture  to  No.  155; 
129.  Rubens  (?),  Diogenes  looking  for  a  man  (sketch);  808.  /.  O.  Cuyp,  Por- 
trait of  a  boy;  830.  J,  D.  de  Beem,  Breakfast- table;  322.  Jan  Weenix, 
Hunting  trophies  (1681).  —  252.  Ph.  Koninck,  Landscape;  157 d.  Tenters  (he 
Younger,  Boors  dancing.  —  273.  /.  van  Ruysdaeh  Landscape  (a  late  work); 
•181.  C.  de  70S,  Child  in  a  small  chair  (1627);  320a.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Stag- 
hunt;  255.  Aert  van  der  Neer,  Landscape  (1652).;  206a.  A. van  Ostade,  Pig- 
killing  (1637);  217.  P.  Janssens,  Lady  at  a  writing-table  (signature  forged); 
*245.  iSaJ. van J2t/y«daei, River-landscape;  •157a.  Tenters  the  Younger,l?lkjBitAtkn 
in  his  study;  193.  Aert.  de  GOder,  Portrait  of  the  artist  (1686);  241.  /.  van 
Qoyen,  Harlem  Meer ;  •217a.  Jan  Vermeer  van  Delft,  The  astronomer ;  290. 
M.  Hobhema,  Edge  of  a  wood;  182.  Ren^andt,  Margaretha  van  Bilderdvk 
(1633);  307.  A.  Cugp.  Cattle;  127.  Rubens,  King  David  playing  the  harp ;  261. 
Everdingen,  Norwegian  landscape  with  a  saw -mill.  —  At  the  end  of  the 
ri)om  to  the  left  is  — 

Corridor  X.  Mostly^unimportant  works  of  various  schools.  1st  Sec. : 
50.  Tiepolo,  Continence  of  Sdpio ;  51.  B.  Belotto,  Venice  from  San  Gio^o 
Maggiore.  —  2nd  Sec. :  74a.  B.  Strtgel^  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria;  73a. 
ff.  Baldung  Grien,  Adoration  of  the  Holy  Child  (ca.  1520);  116.  Flemish  School, 
Revellers  (1560)  —  4th  Sec. :  German  School  (18th  cent.).  —  5th  Sec. : 
Netherlandish  School  (17th  cent.).  —  We  now  cross  the  landing  to 
corridor  XII,  to  the  right  of  which  is  — 

Room  XI.  Modern  German  works,  including  Overbeck's  Joseph  sold  by 
his  brethren  (471;  cartoon  for  the  fresco  in  Berlin)  and  water-colours  and 
cartoons  by  Ed.  von  Steinle. 

Corridor  XII.  1st  Sec  :  623.  A.  Burger,  View  of  Frankfort  (1875);  no 
number,  H.  Thoma.  Landscape.  —  2nd  Sec. :  "Thoma^  Eve;  467a.  LunteschHU, 
Schopenhauer  (1866) ;  525.  Burger^  Family  prayer.  —  8rd  Sec. :  467b.  Lord 
Leighton,  Portrait  of  himself  (1852);  401.  /.  F.  Morgenstem.  Frankfort 
harbour ;  450.  C.  Morgenstem,  Bay  of  Villafranca.  —  4th  Sec. :  524.  Burger, 
Rustic  meal ;  no  number,  SchOnleber^  Architectural  subject. 

Room  XIII.    Lessing,  440.  After  the  storm,  439.  Crusader  at  rest 

.oogle 


Stadel  GalUry.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.   239 

441.  Patriarchal  Oak;  414.  W.  Schadow,  The  Wise  and  Foolish  Virgins 5  460. 
QalloU^  Abdication  of  Charles  V..  a  small  replica  of  the  picture  at  Brussels. 

EooM  XIV.  Large  *Fresco  Dy  Philip  Veit  (So.  416),  representing  the 
^Introduction  of  Christianity  into  Germany',  with  fignres  of  ^Italia'  and 
^Germania'  on  thrones.  This  work,  the  masterpiece  of  the  painter,  com- 
pleted in  1836,  was  skilfully  sawn  out  of  the  wall  in  the  old  building  and 
transferred  hither.  —  The  room  also  contains  numerous  water-colours  and 
cartoons  by  Sieinle  and  recent  acquisitions  (Sieinhausen^  Landscape,  The 
artist's  wife). 

Boom  XV.  413.  Overbeck,  The  Triumph  of  Religion  in  the  Arts  (1840): 
419.  P.  VeU,  Repose  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt;  405.  /.  A.  Koch,  Historic 
landscape,  with  the  Bape  of  Hylas;  429.  Ridhkr^  Thunderstorm  in  the  Sabine 
Mountains  (1830).    We  now  enter  — 

Boom  XXI.  End -wall:  *438.  Zesting^  Ezzelino  in  prison,  refusing 
spiritual  consolation  and  resolving  to  die  of  hunger;  *430.  2f.  von  Schivind, 
The  *S&ngerkrieg'  at  the  Wartburg  (reproduction  in  oil  of  the  fresco  in 
the  Wartburg).  —  444b.  Steinle^  Mary  Magdalen  at  the  Sepulchre;  458a. 
Feuerbaeh,  Boman  woman  -,  *447.  J.  Becker^  Shepherd  struck  by  ligntning ; 
458  q.  Wenglein,  Landscape ;  467  a.  Alma  Tadema^  Festival  of  Dionysus  (1871). 
—  454.  E^thely  Daniel  in  the  lions'  den.  —  682.  A.  LitTy  Potato  harvest ;  462  a. 
Tryon^  Cattle;  468.  A,  Aehetibach,  Storm  at  sea  (1887);  638.  Baitch,  Cattle: 
*'497.  C,  F.  Lestingy  John  Huss  at  the  Council  of  Constance,  one  of  tiie  most 
celebrated  works  of  the  Diksseldorf  school;  444.  StiinU,  Tiburtine  Sibyl  (1848). 

Cab.  XVI.  Ph,  FstI,  421a.  Moses  in  the  ark  of  bulrushes,  421.  Visitation 
(1868),  418.  Portrait  of  a  clergyman;  404  Koch^  Ifoah's  sacrifice;  481.  M. 
von  Behwind.  Dance  of  Elves  (1844). 

Cab.  XVII.  444  a.  Steinle,  Portrait  (1848)  ^  Sehirmer,  458  q.  The  Good 
Samaritan ,  458h.  On  the  Tiber  (1842);  424a.  Rottmann,  Near  Aulis  (Greece)^ 
456  d.  Drthety  Italian  landscape. 

Cab.  XVni.  Modem  German  School.  580.  BdckUn^  Villa  by  the  sea; 
no  number,  *Lmbaeh,  Emp.  William  I.,  Bismarck,  andJMoltke. 

Cab.  XIX.  586.  Lehbaeh,  Portrait  of  Brentano,  the  artist  (1884);  no 
number,  (THUmsr,  Monks*  quartette;  681.  D^regger,  Tyrolese  woman;  no 
number,  2Vfl6fi«r,  Negro  reading  a  newspaper. 

Cab.  XX.  No  number,  Mesdagy  Sea-fcene;  A.  Bisley^  Landscape  with 
river;  468 0.  Uhde,  Christ  at  Emmaus;  535.  ZOgel^  Flock  of  sheep;  *IAeber- 
mann^  Orphan-children  of  Amsterdam. 

In  the  S.W.  part  of  Sachsenhausen  we  may  mention  the  Hippo- 
drome (PI.  C,  6),  opened  In  1899,  the  Royal  Institute  of  Experimental 
Therapeutics^  and  the  Town  Hospital,  — In  the  Hiihner-Weg(Pl.  G,  6) 
is  the  Willemer-Hdusckenj  celebrated  through  Goethe  and  Marianne 
Yon  Willemer  (1814;  now  owned  by   the  town). 


From  Frankfort  to  Nauheim  and  Cassel^  see* Baedeker's  Northern 
Germany.  The  first  stations  are  :  Bockenheim  (p.  68),  Eschershcim- 
Heddemheim,  (6  M.^  Bonames,  and  (9  M.)  VilbeL 

A  little  to  the  S.W.  of  Heddemheim,  on  the  road  to  Praunheim,  is  the 
so-called  Seidenfeld,  where  the  remains  of  a  Boman  town,  the  chief  place 
in  the  Civiicu'^TatmeMiumy  with  a  stone  fort  of  the  time  of  Domitian,  were 
discovered  in  1826.  —  At  Vilbel  the  remains  of  a  Roman  bath  have  been 
found  in  Messrs.  Siesmayer^s  nursery-gardens. 


Fbom  Fbankfobt  to  Maybnob  (HessischeLudwigsbafmJj  23  V2  ^ . , 
in  36  mln.-lV4  hr.  (fares  2  uT  90,  2  uT  20,  1  uT  50  pf.;! express 
3  Ur  20,  2  ufr  40  pf.).  —  The  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station 
(p.  221)  and  crosses  the  Main.  2^2  M.  Niederrad,  also  a  station 
on  the  *Waldbahn'  (p.  223),  with  the  Frankfort  racecourse.  —  The 


240   Route '29  HOOHST.  'launus. 

line  runs  at  first  through  the  Frankfort  'Stadtwald*,  but  afterwards 
affords  a  view  of  the  Taunus  to  the  right.  4  M.  QoldsUin,  junction 
of  the  line  from  Sachsenhausen ;  7  M.  Schwanheim ;  9  M.  KeUUr- 
bach;  14  M.  Raunheim;  16  M.  Riisselsheim ;  18  M.  Bischofsheim 
(p.  251).  —  21  M.  Qustavshurg-Kostheim.  Gustavsburg  was  made 
a  fortress  by  the  Swedes  in  1633  and  is  now  a  manufacturing  sub- 
urb of  Mayence ;  Kostheim  lies  on  the  opposite  (right)  bank  of  the 
Main.  The  train  then  crosses,  by  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  165, 
to  the  Neuthor  Station,  and  runs  thence  beneath  the  citadel  to  the 
central  station  in  Mayence  (p.  154). 

29.   The  Taunus. 

The  name  Taunus,  in  the  wider  sense ,  applies  to  the  whole  of  the 
mountainous  region  between  the  Main,  the  Rhine,  and  the  Lahn,  but  is 
usually  restricted  to  the  southern  mountains  of  that  district,  sloping  down 
to  the  Main  and  Rhine,  and  extending  from  l^auheim  on  the  E.  to  Ass- 
mannshausen  on  the  W.  Geologically,  the  range  consists  of  clay-slate  with 
grauwacke  on  the  N.  The  hills  are  covered  with  forests  of  beech  and 
pine.  The  highest  points  are  the  Oreat  Feldberg  (2887  ft.),  the  LiUle  Feld- 
herg  (2710  ft.),  and  the  Altkdnig  (2615  ft.). 

One  and  a  half  or  two  days  suffice  for  a  glimpse  at  the  most  inter- 
esting spots  in  this  district :  Railway  to  Ilomburg^  where  the  night  is  spent, 
1/2-8/4  hour.  Next  morning,  ascent  of  the  Feldberg  in  31/4  hrs.,  either  via 
the  Saalburg  or  direct;  descent  to  Kiynigstein  1V»  hr. ;  thence  by  Faltenstein 
to  Cranberg  IV2  br.  •,  or  by  the  Rossert  to  Eppttein  in  3V«  hrs.  Those  who 
devote  a  single  day  to  the  Feldberg  generally  start  from  Cronberg  or  Konig- 
stein.  —  All  routes  and  paths  in  the  Taunus  are  marked  with  colours 
which  are  explained  by  'Central  Tablets'  posted  at  the  crossings  and  in 
the  charts  (i  JK  25  pf.)  published  by  the  'Taunus  Club*. 

Cyclists  may  make  a  pleasant  tour  by  riding  from  Homburg  to  (3  M.) 
Oberursel,  (3  M.)  Cronberg,  (2V2M.)  Konigstein,  (4M.)  Hschbach,  and  (2  M.) 
Eppstein.  The  distance  from  Konigstein  to  Hoehst  is  about  7  M. ;  the 
portion  before  Soden  (3  M.)  takes  careful  riding. 

a.   Tatinas  Bailway  ftom  Frankfort  to  Caatel  (Mayence)  and 
Wiesbaden. 

Railway  to  Castel  (2OV2  M.)  in  V2-I  br.  (fares  2 UT  80,  2  UTIO,  1  UT  40 pf . ; 
express  3  UTIO,  2  UT  30  pf.).  —  To  Wiesbaden  (26  M.)  in  3/4-IV2  hr.  (fares 
3  ur  40,  2  ur  60,  lur  70 pf.^  express  3  UT  80,  2ur  90 pf.,  2  Jf). 

The  Taunus  Railway  j  one  of  the  oldest  in  Germany,  was  opened 
in  1839.  Leaving  the  town,  the  train  skirts  the  Main,  which  flows 
into  the  Rhine  between  Kostheim  (see  above)  and  Castel ;  the  river 
is  occasionally  seen.   The  Nidda  is  now  crossed, 

51/2  M.  Hoehst  (290 ft.;  Schmidt,  Humboldt-Str.,  at  the  rail, 
station,  D.  i  JflO  pf. ;  Hotel  Casino,  Casino-Str.;  Hirsch,  Nassauer 
Hof,  both  in  the  Haupt-Str.;  wine  at  the  Schone  Aussicht,  also 
rooms),  a  Roman  frontier- fortress  in  the  time  of  Augustus  (comp. 
p.  244),  and  now  a  thriving  little  town  with  14^000  inhab.  and  large 
dye-works,  has  belonged  to  Mayence  since  1352.  The  porcelain 
factory  (1740),  which  once  enjoyed  considerable  reputation,  was 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1794.  The  Rom.  Cath.  Church  of  St. 
Justinus,  on  the  lofty  right  bank  of  the  Main,  beyond  the  Haupt- 

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Taunus.  HOMBURG.  29.  Route.  241 

Str.,  a  9th  cent  basilica,  many  times  rebuilt,  bas  a  Gothic  choir  added 
in  1443.  The  Statue  of  Bismarck  (1899)  is  by  Alois  Mayer.  A  palace 
of  the  Electors  of  Mayence  here,  built  in  the  16-17th  cent.,  was 
destroyed  by  the  Frankforters  in  1634,  but  the  handsome  tower  and 
the  moat  still  remain.  The  building  is  now  used  as  a  municipal 
office.  Behind  it  is  the  Rothe  Hau$j  which  in  the  18th  cent,  was 
a  summer-residence  of  the  Electors. 

From  Rochal  to  KSnigstein,  see  p.  246^  to  Sodenj  see  p.  247;  to  Eppstein 
and  Limbwg^  see  p.  248. 

9V2  M.  Hattersheim.  The  white  Hofheim  Chapel  (p.  248)  and  the 
Meisterthurm  can  be  seen  on  the  nearer  spurs  of  the  Taunus. 

At  (13^2  M.)  Florsheim  (Hirsch),  a  village  on  the  Main,  omni- 
buses and  carriages  are  in  waiting  to  convey  travellers  to  the 
(1 Y2  M.)  baths  of  Weilbach  (sulphur-springs),  with  their  Curhaus  and 
pleasant  grounds.  The  village  of  Weilbach  lies  8/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
baths.  Pleasing  view  from  the  ^KanzeV  (pulpit),  a  hill  with  four 
trees,  Y2  M.  above  Diedenbergen,  and  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  "Weilbach. 

1772  M.  Hochheixn  (405ft.;  Schwan,  fair;  wine  at  Payer's),  a 
small  town  with  3000  inhab. ,  celebrated  for  its  wines.  The  most 
esteemed  is  yielded  by  the  vineyards  of  the  old  Domdecftanei  (deanery). 
The  sparkling  *Hock*  made  at  Hochheim  (whence  the  name),  is 
much  prized,  and  is  largely  exported  to  England  (comp.  p.  xxiv). 

On  entering  (20^2  M.)  Caste!  (p.  154;  Anker)  the  line  intersects 
the  fortifications.  The  station  is  situated  close  to  the  bridge  over  the 
Rhine  (comp.  Plan  of  Mayence,  p.  154).  Through-carriages  for  the 
Rheingau  are  detached  from  the  train  here  (R.  20). 

The  pier  of  the  Hatencb  Steameb  lies  about  300  yds.  from  the  arrival 

Slatform  (to  the  leftj  p.  154).  —  Omnibus  and  Tbamwat  to  the  Central 
tation  in  Mayence,  see  p.  154.  Gab  to  Mayence  (preferable  for  travellers 
continoing  their  journey  at  once  by  steamer),  one-horse  1  Ul,  two -horse 
li/s  Jf  (bridge-toll  extra)  •,  each  box  20  pf. 

23  M.  Curve  is  connected  by  a  short  branch-line  with  Biehrich 
(p.  135).  —  26  M.  Wiesbaden,  see  p.  145. 

b.  From  Frankfort  to  Homborg. 

11  M.  Railway  in  28-43  min.  (fares  i  Jf  BO,  1  Jt  20,  80  pf.).  Trains  start 
from  the  Central  Station;  best  views  on  the  left. 

The  Homburg  line  coincides  with  the  Cassel  line  as  far  as  (2  M.) 
Bockenheim,  now  included  in  Frankfort  (electric  tramway,  p.  223), 
with  a  picturesque  church,  an  old  watch-tower,  numerous  factories, 
and  large  barracks.  —  "We  then  cross  the  Nidda.  4  M.  Rodelheim, 
junction  of  the  Cronberg  line  (p..  245) ;  7V2  M.  Weisskirchen,  — 
91/4 M.  Oberursel  (Schiitzenhof,  very  fair;  Bar;  Pension  Alemannia), 
a  small  but  very  old  town,  is  much  visited  by  the  Frankforters  in 
summer.  (Ascent  of  the  Feldberg  from  Oberursel,  see  p.  247; 
electric  tramway  to  the  Hohe  Mark.) 

11  M.  Hombnrg.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  Central  Station,  Untere 
Luisen-Str.,  for  the  line  to  Frankfort.  —  2.  Friedh&rgev  Bahnhof,  2  min. 
walk  farther  down,  for  the  lines  to  Friedberg  and  Usingen.  , 

Babdbkbb's  Rhine.   t5th  Edit  Ig-OOglC 


242   Boute29,  HOMBUBG.  Taunua, 

Hotels  (all  with  electric  light;  most  of  the  larger  ones  with  garden 
and  lift,  closed  in  winter).  ^Hotbl  dd  Pabc.  Eaiser-Friedrich- Promenade ; 
•Hotel  Victobia,  Lnisen-Str.,  B.  6-12,  B.  IV2,  ddj.  3,  D.  at  7  p.m.  6,  pens, 
from  10  Jl;  *H6tel  Adousta  Victobia,  pens,  from  9  jf ,  in  the  same 
street:  *6BAin>  HStbl  and  Villa  Fubstbnbuhb,  in  the  same  street,  R. 
from  4V»,  B.  IV2,  d€j.  3,  D.  (7.30  p.m.)  6,  pens,  from  i(y^ltJt;  *Bellevde, 
Ludwig-Str.,  opposite  the  Cur-Garten,  R.  3-7,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  2V«-3,  D.  4-5, 
pens,  from  OVs  •# ;  '"MBtbopolb,  Ferdinand-Plats,  near  the  station,  R.  3-8, 
B.  iVa,  d6j.  2V2,  I>.  4^  pens,  from  9Va  UT ;  *Savot,  Kisseleflf-Str.,  R.  from  3, 
B.  IVs,  d<j.  2Vs,  D.  4,  pens,  from  9  Ji;  •Hotel  Minbrva,  Kaiser- 
Friedrich-Promenade,  corner  of  Ludwig-Str.,  R.  3-15,  B.  IV4,  D.  at  1  p.m.  4, 
at  7  p.m  5,  pens,  from  8  »#;  *Adleb,  Luisen-Str.,  open  all  the  year  ronnd, 
R.  from  3,  B.  l^A,  d^j.  21/2,  D.  at  1.15  p.m.  8,  pens,  from  ^jU.  All  these 
are  of  the  first  class.  —  Gbntbal,  Luisen-Str. ,  opposite  the  Gurhaus; 
W1ND8OB,  opposite  the  Cur-Garten,  R.  3-5,  B.  I1/4,  D.  2-3,  pens,  from 
%  jH;  H5tel  d'ANOLETEBBB ,  Luisen-Str.,  near  the  station,  well  spoken 
of.  —  Second-class  (recommended  to  passing  travellers):  Stbasbbuboeb 
HoF,  Thomas- Str.;  SobtDtzbnhof  ,  Auden-Str.  1;  Fbakkfobteb  Hof, 
Elisabethen-Str.  19,  R.  IV2-2V21  pens.  from4VtUlfi  Saalbau,  XJntere  Luisen- 
Str. ;  GoLOENE  Rose,  Luisen-Str.  26,  R.  fromlUV;  EisENBAHX-HdTEL,  at 
the  station,  the  last  two  quite  unpretending;  Bbacnschwbio,  Luisen-Str.  72, 
near  the  station,  a  Jewish  house.  —  There  are  also  many  private  hotels 
and  pensions.  —  The  pleasantest  Ptivaie  Lodgings  are  in  the  Kaiser-Friedrich- 
Promenade  and  its  cross-streets,  the  cheapest  are  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  town. 

Restaurant  at  the  Ourhaus.  —  Beer.  Central  Hotels  D.  from  IV4  M\ 
Sircusburger  Ho/,  D.  i*UJ(;  Edtel  Windsor;  SchHtzmhof ;  Saalbau.  —  Con- 
fectioners :  Brake,  Luisen-Str.  near  the  Gurhaus ;  Ldreher,  Elisabethen-Str. 

Kusio  in  summer,  7.30-8.30  a.m.,  by  the'Springs;  at  3.90-5  and  8-10  p.m. 
in  the  Cur-Garten.  Adm.  for  passing  travellers  1  UV,  Sun.  50  pf.  Also  a 
theatre,  concerts,  and  balls. 

Visitors'  Tax:  1  pers.  20  UlT,  2  pers.  80  UlT,  3  pers.  38  UlT,  4  pers.  UuT, 
each  addit.  pers.  6  Ji ;  for  those  staying  not  more  than  a  week,  8,  12,  16, 

20,  3ur. 

Carriage  with  one  horse  from  the  station  to  the  town,  1-2  pers.  70  pf. , 
3-4  pers.  1  Jl,  box  20  pf. ;  within  the  town  or  to  the  mineral  springs, 
with  one  horse  50  or  70  pf.,  with  two  horses  1  jH  ;  per  day  18  and  24  •#. 
To  Cronberg  with  one  horse  9  or  10,  with  two  horses  12  jH. 

Electric  Tramway  from  the  Central  Station  to  Dornholthausen  (20  pf.), 
and  to  the  Saalburg  (40  min.,  60  pf.  \  in  winter  on  Sun.  only),  with  branch- 
lines  to  the  Gothic  House,  in  the  Grosse  All^e,  and  to  Kirdorf. 

Post  Office,    Luisen-Str.,  opposite  the  Gurhaus. 

English  Church,  Ferdinand -Str.,  near  the  railwav  -  station ,  with  500 
sittings;  Sun.  services  during  summer  at  8.30a.m.,  ll  a.m.,  and  4  p.m. 
Daily  Matins  at  8.30  a.m.  —  Presbyterian  Services  in  the  Schlosskirche  at 
11.30  a.m.  and  7.15  p.m.  in  July  and  August 

Homburg  vor  der  Hohe  (640  ft.),  a  town  with  12,600  Inhab. 
(incl.  Kirdorf),  situated  amid  the  S.E.  spurs  of  the  Taunus  Mts., 
formerly  belonged  to  Eppstein  (p.  249).  It  was  the  residence  of 
the  Landgraves  of  Hesse-Homburg ,  a  collateral  line  of  the  giand- 
ducal  family  of  Hesse,  from  1662  to  1866,  when  this  branch  of  the 
family  became  extinct,  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  watering- 
places  in  the  RMneland  (about  12,000  visitors  annually,  one-third 
of  whom  are  English). 

The  uninteresting  old  town,  with  remains  of  the  old  town-wall 
and  three  towers ,  lies  1/2  M.  above  the  rail,  station.  The  visitors' 
quarters  lie  in  the  new  town,  between  the  Luisen-Str.  and  the  Our- 
Park.    In  the  Luisbn  -  St&assb  ,  which  runs  from  the  station  to 

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Taunta.  H0MBUR6.  29.  BouU.  243 

the  N.W.,  are  the  chief  Hotels,  the  Theatre,  the  Curhaus,  the  Pott 
Office f  the  Town  HaU^  and  a  War  Monument. 

In  the  Kaisbb-Fsiedsich-Pbombnads  are  marble  busts  of  Emp. 
Frederick  III.  and  his  Consort,  by  Uphnes.  Near  it  is  the  elegant 
Russian  Chapel,  by  L.  Jacobi  (1897). 

The  Gurhaus,  the  chief  lendezvons  of  visitois,  built  in  1841-43 
by  the  brothers  Blanc,  of  Monte  Carlo,  and  several  times  enlarged 
since  1860,  contains  a  number  of  very  handsome  apartments,  a  well- 
supplied  reading-room,  and  (until  1904;  comp.  p.  244)  the  8aal- 
hurg  Museum  (adm.  10-12  &  3-6;  25  pf.),  with  a  well -arranged 
collection  of  antiquities  found  on  the  Saalburg  (p.  244)  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Homburg,  a  good  model  of  the  Saalburg,  and  a 
reconstruction  of  a  Roman  watch-tower.  A  terrace  on  the  N.  side, 
partly  covered  with  glass,  is  a  favourite  resort  in  fine  weather,  and 
the  corridors  of  the  groundfloor  afford  a  sheltered  promenade  during 
rain . 

At  the  back  of  the  Curhaus  is  the  Cur-Oarten,  to  the  right  of 
which  are  the  Curhaus  Baths,  renovated  in  1902.  Hence  we  descend, 
crossing  the  Kaiser- Friedrioh-Promenade ,  to  the  fine  *Cnr-Park, 
which  is  about  125  acres  in  extent.  Broad  walks  lead  hence  to  the 
right  to  the  Lawn  Tennis  Courts,  the  Solquelle  (bored  in  1898),  and 
the  Whey  Cure  Institute,  much  frequented  in  the  afternoon.  This 
lies  at  the  beginning  of  the  ^Brunnen-All^e^  containing  the  chaly- 
beate and  saline  Spbinos,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Elisabeth-Brunnen, 
famous  as  a  salt-spring  even  in  Roman  times.  Near  the  two  ad- 
joining *TrinkhaUen*  are  well-kept  flower-beds,  a  palm-house,  and 
the  band-stand.  The  StaMbrunnen  and  the  Luisenquelle  are  less 
saline  than  the  Elisabethbmnnen,  bnt  are  richer  in  iron,  especially 
the  flrst-named.  The  Kaiserhrunnen  and  the  Ludwigsbrunnen  are 
nsed  chiefly  for  bathing.  Near  the  last  is  the  large  ^Kaiser-Wilhelmr' 
Bad,  built  by  L.  Jacobi  and  opened  in  1890  (bath-hours  7-1  and 
4-6,  Sun.  8-12). 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  town  (we  ascend  the  Luisen-Strasse  and 
Schulgasse  and  turn  to  the  left  through  the  Herrengasse)  rises  the 
ScMoss,  which  was  erected,  partly  of  stone  from  the  Saalburg,  by 
Landgrave  Frederick  II.  in  1680-85,  was  rebuilt  in  1820-40,  and 
was  fitted  up  in  1866  for  the  use  of  the  royal  family  of  Prussia, 
Above  a  gateway  In  the  upper  court  is  the  front  half  of  an  equestrian 
statue,  and  opposite  to  it  a  bust  of  the  landgrave,  who,  under  the 
leadership  of  the  Great  Elector,  decided  the  victory  of  the  Branden- 
burgers  over  the  Swedes  at  Fehrbellin  in  1675  by  the  spirited  charge 
of  his  cavalry.  In  the  N.E.  corner  is  a  Roman  portico  from  Brau- 
weiler  (p.  16).  The  Weisse  Thurm,  which  rises  here  to  a  height  of 
188  ft.,  is  a  relic  of  the  old  castle  of  Honberg  (14th  cent.)  and 
commands  an  extensive  view.  The  Palace  Oarden  is  open  to  the 
public.  Adm.  to  the  interior  of  the  palace,  1-2  pers.  1  Jf ,  each 
.  addit.  pers.  50  pf.,  to  the  tower  50  &  25  pf.  (on  Sun.  26  pf.  only 

16* 


244  R(mU29.  SAilLBURG.  Taunus. 

for  both  palace  and  tower).  —  AdjoiniDg  the  E.  corner  of  the  Schloss 
is  the  Old  Protestant  Church,  with  the  bnrial-vault  of  the  Landgraves. 

Walks.  Besides  the  Car-Park  mentioned  at  p.  243,  the  traveller  may 
also  visit  the  Hardt  or  Hard^ald.  adjoining  the  Curhaos  gronnds;  the 
Orosse  Tannenwald^  V2  ^^*  to  the  li.W.  of  Hombnrg,  on  the  Grosae  All^e, 
near  the  Oothic  House,  built  in  1825  and  nsed  by  the  Landgrave  as  a  hunt- 
ing-seat (restaurant:  elec.  tramway,  see  p.  342);  the  Kleine  Tannenteald 
(dairy),  20  min.  to  the  W.  t,  the  Luther-Eiche^  */*  hr.  from  Domholihausen 
(see  below) ,  whence  the  path  is  indicated  by  blue  crosses ;  the  Wildpark 
(restaurant)  with  its  numerous  deer,  V4  l^r.  from  the  Gothic  House;  the 
Ooldgruhe  (1595  ft.),  1  hr.  from  the  Gothic  House.  —  Ascent  of  the  Feldberg, 
see  p.  245. 

An  Expedition  to  the  Saalburo  may  be  made  by  the  electric  tram- 
way (p.  242).  Beyond  (IV4  M.)  Dornholzhautm  (Scheller,  D.  V/t ,  pens.  4  JK  ; 
Deutsches  Haus,  unpretending)  the  tramway  ascends  rapidly  (mazimuin 
gradient  1 :  18)  to  the  comfortable  Sadfburg  Inn  (view-terrace),  on  the  ridge 
of  the  Taunus.  Walkers  from  Domholzhausen  follow  a  path  indicated  by 
yellow  marks,  which  leads  straight  on  to  the  Saalburg  in  1  hr. ;  or  they 
may  follow  the  blue-marked  path  vi4  the  Luther-Eiche  to  the  (1  hr.) 
Herzhtrg  (1930  ft.  t  view-tower)  and  thence  a  path  indicated  by  green  marks 
in  i/r»/4  hr. 

The  Saalburg  (1881  ft.),  on  the  ridge  of  the  Taunus  between  the  roads 
leading  to  Usingen  on  the  right  and  to  Obernhain  on  the  left,  was  one 
of  the  forts  belonging  to  the  Pfahlgraben  ( Limes) ^  a  line  of  intrenchments 
344  M.  long  constructed  about  70  A.D.  to  protect  Rhaetia  and  the  Germanic 
provinces  against  the  warlike  Germans  and  fulfilling  this  function  for 
about  two  centuries.  It  extended  from  Kelheim  to  Lorch,  then  turned 
northwards  to  Miltenberg,  and  finally  stretched  towards  theN.W.  to  Ems  and 
Rheinbrohl  (p.  74).  —  The  Saalburg,  which  is  the  largest,  so  far  as  known, 
of  the  forts  on  the  Pfahlgraben  (measuring  725  by  471  ft.) ,  was  discovered 
in  1868  by  the  excavations  of  Gohausen  and  Jacobi,  and  the  work  of 
restoration  is  being  partly  carried  out  by  the  latter.  It  is  generally 
regarded,  though  without  definite  proof,  as  the  fortress  re-erected  by 
Germanicus,  son  of  Drusus,  ^super  vestigia  patemi  praesidii  in  tnonte  Tmmo*, 

Leaving  the  station,  and  passing  the  ruined  camp  (taverns,  wells,  etc.) 
and  the  commandant's  house  (left),  we  soon  reach  tbe  S.  gate,  the  Porta 
Decumana  (No.  4  on  the  inset  in  the  Map,  p.  240;  25ft.  wide),  which, 
together  with  the  adjoining  wall  (10-15  ft.  high),  the  bridge  over  the  two 
trenches,  and  the  E.  gate  (Porta  Principalis  Dextra),  has  now  been  restored. 
At  the  entrance  are  a  good  plan  of  the  fort  and  a  bronze  statue  of 
Emperor  Antoninus  Pius  by  J.  Gdtz  (1901).  The  Saalburg  Museum  (p.  248) 
is  to  be  removed  in  1904  to  the  newly-restored  Praetoriwn^  in  the  middle 
of  the  fort.  A  short  distance  beyond  the  Porta  Praetor ia  (No.  1  on  the 
plan)  or  N.  gate,  rises  the  Pfahlgraben  itself,  here  distinctly  recognis- 
able. The  Roman  military  road  leading  from  the  S.  gate  to  Heddemheim 
(p.  239)  was  flanked,  in  the  customary  fashion,  by  tombstones.  The  mortuary 
.house  re-erected  a  litUe  to  the  left,  on  the  ancient  foundations,  contains 
a  few  relics  (key  kept  by  the  custodian  of  the  Saalburg ;  fee). 

At  the  DreimUhlhorn,  Vs  ^-  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Saalburg,  to  the  right 
of  the  Oberhain  road,  and  also  at  the  Drueuekippel^  some  remains  of  Ger- 
manic-Roman open-air  forges  have  been  preserved.  —  A  road,  leaving  the 
Usingen  road  to  the  right,  about  250  yds.  beyond  the  fort,  descends  via 
the  LochmUMe  (restaurant)  to  (20  min.)  the  Saalburg  station  (p.  245). 

About  1/4  br.  to  the  E.,  beyond  the  mortuary  house,  rises  the  FrOk- 
lieJu-Mannekopf  (i&&0  ft.;  belvedere),  the  path  to  which  is  indicated  at 
first  by  red,  then  by  blue  marks.  The  blue-marked  path  goes  on  to  the 
CficMsburg  (1535  ft.),  with  remains  of  an  ancient  circular  fortification,  and 
the  Pelagiue- Piatt  ^  where  it  rejoins  the  red-marked  path  (Rothtaufweg) 
by  which  we  may  return  through  the  Hardtwald  to  Homburg. 

The  ascent  of  the  Feldberg  may  be  made  in  2i/s-3  hrs.  from  the  Saalburg 
by  following  the  path  (indicated  by  yellow  marks)  outside  the  intrench* 


Taunus.  CRONBEBG.  29,  RouU,  245 

ment.  About  1  hr.  from  the  top  is  the  Sandplacken  (p.  247).  From  the 
Saalbarg  inn  the  shortest  route  follows  at  first  the  path  (green  marks)  yii 
the  Herzberg  (p.  344). 

Fbom  Hombubo  to  Usinokn,  W/'z  M.,  railway  in  about  1  hr.  —  2Vs  M. 
Seulberg.  —  3  M.  Friedrichgdarf  (Adler -^  Weisser  Thurm,  a  restaurant  above 
the  town),  founded  by  Huguenots  in  1687,  is  a  small  industrial  town, 
formerly  belonging  to  Homburg,  with  1200  inhab.  who  still  retain  their 
French  tongue.  Branch-line  to  Friedberg^  see  below.  —  4YsM.  Kdppem, 
—  71/t  M.  Saalbwff,  the  station  for  the  Saalburg  (p.  244)}  8Vt  M.  Wehrheim 
(1017  ft.);  11  M.  Anspach,  the  station  for  (5  M.)  NewWeilnau  and  0  M.) 
Sehmitten  (p.  249).  —  14V2  M.  Usingen  (956  ft.;  Adler),  a  smaU  town  with 
1900  inhab.,  residence  of  the  Princes  of  Nassau-Usingen  from  1659  to  1774. 

Fbom  Hombubo  to  Fbibdbebq,  14  M. ,  railway  in  •/«-!  ^^-  —  The  line 
diverges  to  the  E.  from  the  Usingen  line  at  (3  M.)  Friedrichtdorf  (see  above), 
6  M.    Holzhau$en  vor  der  EOhe  (607  a);  6  M.    Rodheim  vor  der  Edhe;  8  M. 
Rosbach  vor  der  ffOhe.  —  Friedberg^  see  Baedeker^s  Northern  Oermcmy. 
* 

e.  From  Frankfort  to  Cronberg  or  Kdnigstein.   Feldberg. 

Fbom  Frankfort  to  Cronbbrg,  10  M.,  railway  in  about  ^U  ^r- 
(fares  1  uT  40  pf.,  i  Jf ,  70  pf.).  —  41/2  M.  Rodelheim  (p.  i41); 
6V2M.  Eschbom;  71/2  M.  NUder-JSochstadt. 

10  M.  Cronberg.  —  Hotels.  'Eaisbb  Fbibdbich,  nearest  the  station, 
with  modern  comforts ,  R.  3-7 ,  B .  1,  D.  from  IV2,  pens.  6-10  Jl ;  Fbank- 
FUBTBB  HoF,  with  good  paintings  by  Frankfort  artists  in  the  dining>room ; 
ScHDTZENHor,  B  l>/2-2V«  B.  1,  D.  IV4-2V2,  pens.  4Vt-6  Jf,  all  with  gardens 
and  views.  —  Bahn^s  Restaurant  ^  at  the  station,  >/«  M.  from  the  town, 
very  fair. 

Oronftery (1016  ft.),  a  smalltown  with  2800  inhab.,  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  a  bill,  surrounded  by  orchards  and  chestnut-groves,  and 
commanded  by  a  CcutU  (1096  ft.)  of  the  13th  cent,  and  by  a  Chdteau 
of  the  16th  (restored).  These  belonged  to  the  Knights  of  Cronberg, 
who  resided  here  down  to  1704,  when  the  family  became  extinct. 
They  are  now  the  property  of  Princess  Frederick  Charles  of  Hesse 
(no  admission).  Cronberg  is  a  favourite  summer-resort  of  the  citizens 
of  Frankfort,  including  quite  a  colony  of  artists,  who  possess  a 
number  of  pleasant  villas  in  the  environs,  and,  like  Konigstein,  it 
is  also  well  adapted  as  headquarters  for  excursions  into  the  Taunus 
region.  About  Va  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Schloss  Friedrichshof^  built  in 
1889-91  for  the  Empress  Frederick  (d.  1901),  but  now  also  belonging 
to  Princess  Frederick  Charles.  A  monument  to  Emp.  Frederick  III.., 
by  Uphues,  was  erected  here  in  1902. 

At  the  entrance  to  Cronberg  is  a  ^Central  Tablet'  (p.  240).  — 
The  road  to  (2  M.)  Falkenstein  (diligence  daily;  also  omnibus) 
follows  the  main  street  of  the  village.  After  about  1  M.  the  road  to 
Konigstein  (p.  246)  diverges  to  the  left.  Walkers  take  the  footpath 
through  the  woods  to  the  left,  immediately  beyond  this  road,  and  in 
20  min.  more  reach  the  village  of  — 

Falkenstein  (ca.  1310  ft.),  about  IV4M.  from  Konigstein.  It 
contains  the  Curanstalt  Falkenstein^  and  close  by  are  the  Frankfurter 
Hof(;pens.  5  Jf)  and  the  Taunua  Inn.  The  wooded  hill  to  the  W.  is 
crowned  with  the  ruin  of  Burg  Falkemtein  (1466  ft.),  the  path  to 


246    Routt  29.  KONIGSTEIN.  Taunus. 

whicli  (12  min.)  is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  town.  This  castle,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  powerftd  Ardi- 
bishop  Knno  of  Treves ,  was  erected  in  the  14th  cent,  on  the  site 
of  the  ancient  fortress  of  Nfiring,  and  was  destroyed  in  1688. 
♦View  from  the  tower  (key  at  the  village).  The  adjacent  Teufelatem 
and  the  Dorrsche  Hduachen  are  also  good  points  of  view. 

The  road  from  Oronberg  to  (3  M.)  Konigstein  (diligence  once 
daily ;  omnibus  oftener)  is  at  first  identical  with  that  to  Falkenstein 
(p.  246).  —  From  Soden  to  Konigstein,  see  p.  248. 


From  Fban^fobt  (Hochst)  to  KoiaosTiiiic,  10 M.,  light  railway 
in  about  ^/^  hr.  (fares  iJf^O  pf.,  i  Jf  iO  pf. ;  through-carriages 
from  Frankfort  by  certain  trains);  best  views  to  the  right.  —  From 
Frankfort  to  (61/2  M.)  Hoehsty  see  p.  240.  —  The  railway  diverges 
to  the  right  from  the  main  line  and  pnrsues  a  N.W.  direction  to  the 
Liederbach-Th(U,  affording  on  the  way  fine  views  of  the  Taunus 
range  (r.),  and  later  of  the  Hof  heimer  Oapelle  and  the  Meisterthurm 
(p.  248).  Chief  stations :  41/2  M-  (from  Hochst)  Munster  (560  ft.); 
51/2 M.  Kelkheim-FUchbach  (p.  249),  the  latter  IV2M.  to  the  N.W., 
near  the  Staufen  and  the  Rossert;  8  M.  Schneidhain  (890  ft.; 
p.  249).  —  We  pass  below  the  S.  side  of  the  castle. 

Konigstein.  —  The  Railway  Station  (1105  ft.)  lies  about  i/s  M.  below 
the  town.  —  Hotels.  ♦HOtbl  Ppapf,  with  large  garden,  E.  aVa-SVs,  B.  1, 
D.  2V&^  pens.  MOUlf;  *H6tel  Colloseus,  with  garden,  R.  IVa-o,  B.  1, 
pens.  5-6V2  Ji ',  Bender,  Stadt  Fbankfdbt,  both  plain.  —  Beer  at  Messer's 
and  at  Prohatky^t.  —  Curhanu  Taunva>lick  (physician,  Dr.  Eohnstamm) ; 
Dr.  Amelung'i  CwanttaU-^  Hydropathic  Establishment.  —  Visitors^  Tax^ 
1  pers.  5,  families  8-10  jH. 

Konigstein  (1190  ft.),  a  picturesquely-situated  little  town  with 
2200  inhab.,  many  pleasant  villas,  and  a  chateau  of  the  Grand-Duke 
of  Luxembourg,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  Taunus 
region.  To  the  W.  of  the  town  rise  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  Castle  of 
JToniystcin  (ca.  1310  ft.),  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1796. 
This  stronghold  is  mentioned  in  history  for  the  first  time  in  1225 ; 
in  1581  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Electors  of  Mayence, 
whose  armorial  bearings  are  stiU  to  be  seen  over  the  entrance ;  in 
1792  it  was  captured  by  the  French,  and  in  1793  by  the  Prussians. 
The  vaults  and  casemates  are  still  partly  preserved.  Fine  view 
from  the  tower. 

ExcDBSioNs.  From  the  E.  end  of  the  town  we  may  ascend  to  (20  min.) 
the  view-tower  on  the  Hartenberg.  The  village  of  MammoUhcrin^  prettily 
situated  1/3  hr.  farther  on,  amid  fruit-trees,  lies  20  nain.  above  Cronihal 
(p.  248).  —  A  path,  indicated  by  green  marks,  leads  from  the  E.  end  of 
the  town  to  (35  min.)  Burg  Falkenstein  (p.  245).  —  From  the  K.  end 
of  the  town  a  road  leads  through  the  pretty  Billthal  to  (3Vc  M.)  Rvppertshain^ 
1 M .  above  which  is  Eppenhain.  l^ear  the  latter  is  the  Rossert  (p.  l2i9),  also 
reached  from  Konigstein  hy  a  picturesque  direct  route  via  Schlossbom 
(2V4  hrs.).  —  From  E3nig8tein  to  Eppsiein,  6  M.,  see  p.  249. 

The  highest  point  of  the  Taunus  Mts.  is  the  Great  Veldberg 
(2885  ft.),  the  top  of  which  consists  of  quartzose  Jipck,  while  the 

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Taunus.  KONIGSTEIN.  29,  Route.   247 

slopes  are  composed  of  clay-slate.  The  whole  moantain,  except  the 
flat  grassy  plateau  on  the  summit,  is  clothed  with  wood.  The  dining- 
room  of  the  older  of  the  two  inns  at  the  top  (D.  %  pension  4  Jf) 
contains  some  good  pictures  by  Frankfort  painters.  The  Tiew 
tower  on  the  summit  (98  ft.  high),  built  in  1901-2,  commands  an 
admirable  panorama  in  clear  weather,  which,  unfortunately,  occurs 
but  seldom.  The  block  of  quartz,  10  ft.  in  height  and  35  ft.  in 
breadth,  near  the  inns,  is  mentioned  in  a  document  as  early  as  812, 
and  has  been  known  as  the  Brunhildenbett  since  1043. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Feldberg  rises  the  *Altkdnig  (2616  ft.),  to  the 
S.W.  the  Kleine  Feldberg  (2710  ft.).  The  summit  of  the  former  is 
enclosed  by  a  huge  double  girdle  of  loose  stones,  with  a  rectangular 
outer  rampart  on  the  S.W.  side.  The  outer  circle  has  a  circumference 
of  1660  yds.,  the  inner  one  of  1260  yds.  The  stones  of  this  pre-Ro- 
man  fortification  were  probably  originally  arranged  in  layers  with 
trunks  of  trees  between,  so  as  to  form  a  perpendicular  wall. 

AsoBNT  OP  THB  Fbldbbrg  PROM  Falkbnstbin  (1»/4  bf-)-  A  broad  road 
(white  marks)  ascends  gradually  from  the  upper  part  of  the  village  to 
(2  min.)  a  finger-post  indicating  a  path  on  the  left  to  the  Haitensteiner 
Sehlag  and  the  (*/«  hr.)  Fuehttanz,  an  open  space  in  the  wood  (rfmts.  at 
the  refuge-hut  in  summer),  whence  the  top  is  reached  in  «/*  hr.  more.  — 
A  path  marked  with  red  leads  to  the  right  from  the  upper  end  of  Falken- 
stein  v\%  the  Sireng-HHtie  to  the  AUMOnig.  The  path  from  the  Altkonig 
to  (35  min.)  the  Fnchstanz  is  marked  at  first  with  yellow  (path  to  Ober- 
ursel),  then  with  green  marks. 

AsoBNT  OP  THB  Fbldbbbo  FROM  KOniostbin,  2V4  hrs.  (carriage  12  JO. 
We  ascend  the  Frankfort  and  Limbnrg  road  for  about  2Vz  M.,  then  take 
the  Reiffenberg  road  to  the  right,  which  leads  vi&  the  Seelenbom  to  the 
(IVs  M.)  Rothe  Kreut  (inn).  Thence  we  may  either  follow  the  red  marks, 
to  the  right,  v\%  the  (iV4  M.)  saddle  between  the  LitUe  and  the  Great  Feld- 
herg^  to  the  (20  min.)  summit  of  the  latter ;  or,  following  the  blue  marks, 
we  may  make  a  detour  of  about  Vs  ^«  ^^^  the  remains  of  a  Boman  fort 
and  entrenchments  discovered  in  1892. 

From  Obbrursbl  (3  hrs.).  The  new  road  ascends  along  the  left  bank 
of  the  stream ,  passing  several  mills.  In  1  hr.  we  reach  the  Eohe  Mark 
spinning-mill  (restaurant),  the  terminus  of  the  electric  tramway  (p.  242), 
beyond  which  the  route  is  indicated  by  brown  marks.  In  about  1  hr. 
more  (about  100  yds.  before  a  wide  curve  of  the  road)  we  ascend  a  few 
steps  to  the  right  and  follow  the  path  (finger-posts)  to  the  (20  min.)  Buck- 
horny  a  fresh  spring.  Thence  we  proceed  straight  on.  crossing  the  carriage- 
road  and  skirting  the  intrenchment,  to  the  S  chief erbruch,  which  is  within 
V2  hr.  of  the  top.    Numerous  finger-posts. 

From  Homburo  (3V4  hrs.).  Leaving  the  (1/2  hr.)  Gothic  House  (p.  244), 
we  follow  the  straight  ^ Elisabethensehneise^  (a  cutting  in  the  wood;  route 
marked  with  yellow  crosses).  At  the  top  of  the  hill  called  the  ^Sand' 
placken'  (2V4  hrs.)  a  finger-post  indicates  the  way  to  the  Feldberg  to  the  left. 
[A  finer  path  (marked  by  green  crosses)  diverges  to  the  left  about  ^4  M. 
from  the  S.W.  exit  of  the  Schloss-Garten,  on  this  side  of  the  bridge,  and 
leads  past  the  Frankfurter  Forsthaus  and  the  Soke  Mtxri  (see  above).] 

d.  From  Frankfort  to  fkklen. 

10  M.  Railway  in  V»-l  hr.  (fares  1  UT  30  pf.,  1  UT,  70  pf. ;  express  1  UT  50, 
1  uriO,  80  pf.). 

From  Frankfort  to  flocfe«t,  see  p.  240.  —  Thence  by  a  short 
branch-line  vi&  Sxdulaek  to  —  r^         T 

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248  Route  29.  .    SODEN.  Taunus, 

Soden.  —  Hotels  (all  with  electric  light,  restaurants,  and  gardens). 
*CuBHAU8;  "HoTBL  GoLLosEUB ,  R.  1V2-5,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens,  from  C^/tJf; 
*EuBOPAiscH£B  HoF,  R.  2-1,  B.  1,  D.  2V2i  pens.  5-8  Jt.  —  *Rus8I80hbk  Hof, 
B.  2-4,  D.  IV2-2V2  Jf  t  ScHoNE  Adssxcht,  similar  charges ;  Uhrioh,  Adleb, 
the  last  two  suited  for  passing  tourists. 

Carriftffe  per  hour  3  •#,  to  Konigstein  3Vt,  to  Gronberg  4Vti  to  the  top 
of  the  Feldberg  20  Jf. 

Visitors'  Tax  for  1  pers.  14,  for  2  pers.  20,  for  each  addit.  pers.  5  Jf, 

5oden  (490-650  ft.),  a  village  with  ITOOinhab.,  lies  at  the  foot 
of  the  Taunus  Mts.,  in  the  sheltered  valley  of  the  Sulzbach,  On  the 
Konigstein  road,  which  intersects  the  town  from  S.E.  to  N.W.,  are 
most  of  the  hotels  and  the  pleasant  Cur-Park,  with  the  Curhaua, 
the  Bath  House  (admirably  fitted  up),  and  the  new  Inhaling  House. 
The  baths  are  yisited  by  about  2500  patients  annually.  The  numerous 
warm  Spkinos  contain  salt,  iron,  and  carbonic-acid  gas,  and  are 
chiefly  prescribed  for  heart  and  bronchial  affections  and  mild  diseases 
of  the  lungs.  They  are  used  both  for  drinking  and  bathing,  and  rise 
in  different  parts  of  the  valley.  The  Milchbrunnen,  Warmbrunnen, 
Soolbrunnen,  and  Champagner-Brunnen,  which  are  chiefly  used  for 
drinking,  rise  in  the  Quellen-Park,  in  the  so-called  Haupt-Strasse, 
near  the  old  Bath  House. 

Walks.  To  the  Drei  Linden  (820  ft.),  a  good  point  of  view,  near 
Keuenhain  (see  below);  to  the  Altenhainer-Thal^  Vs  ^^f-  ^  the  K.W. ;  to 
the  Sodener  WMdeheny  etc. 

Fbom  Soden  to  Cbonbebg,  3  M.  The  road  diverges  to  the  W.,  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  Cur-Park.  About  V*  ^-  from  Soden  there  is  a  finger- 
post indicating  the  footpath  and  the  carriage-road  (yellow  marks)  to  (2  M.) 
CronthcU,  which  possesses  two  saline  springs,  and  to  Gronberg. 

From  Sodbn  to  KSnigstbin,  3  M.  The  road  ascends  gradually, 
and  passes  (1  M.)  Neuenhain  (790  ft.),  where  there  is  another 
chalybeate  spring  used  for  sanatory  purposes.  —  Konigstein^  see 
p.  246. 

e.  From  Frankfort  to  EppBtein  and  Limbnrg. 

U  M.  Railway  in  iV2-2V4  hrs.  (fares  SUTSO,  3ur90,  2ur00  pf.). 

Frankfort,  see  p.  221.  6  M.  Oriesheim;  9  M.  Hoehst,  see  p.  240. 
The  line  describes  a  curve  and  crosses  the  Taunus  railway.  121/2  M. 
Kriftel. 

14  M.  Hofheim  (445  ft. ;  Kror^e,  very  fair;  moderate  charges; 
Pfdlztr  Hof) ,  an  early  Roman  settlement  (comp.  p.  244),  is  now  a 
pleasant  village  of  2400  inhab.  at  the  entrance  to  the  Lorsbaeher- 
Thai,  a  grassy  valley,  enclosed  by  wooded  slopes  and  watered  hy  the 
Schwarzbach.  Pleasant  walks  lead  to  the  (I/2  hr.)  lofty  Hofheimer 
CapeUe  (750  ft.)  and  on  to  the  (1/4  hr.)  Meisterthurm  (958  ft.;  key 
at  Hofheim,  open  on  Sun.),  which  affords  an  admirable  survey  of 
the  extensive  valley  of  the  Main,  the  Taunus  Mts. ,  the  Bergstrasse, 
and  the  Mts.  of  the  Palatinate. 

The  line  ascends  the  Lorshacher-Thal,  and  crosses  the  Schwarz- 
bach several  times.  1672^-  i^ors^acA,  a  prettily-^itoiited  village. 

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Taunus.  IDSTEIN.  29.  Route.    249 

19  M.  Eppstein.  —  Hotels.  *H5tbl  Sbileb,  at  the  station,  R.  lVr2, 
B.  '/i,  pens.  4-41/2  Jf;  Oblm6hlb,  outside  the  village,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Fischbach-Thal,  with  shady  garden,  very  fair,  R.  11/2-2,  B.  1,  pens.  4-6  •#; 
Kaisbb-Tbhpbl  (see  below;  open  in  summer  only),  11/4  M.  from  the  station, 
R.  IV2-2,  pens.  4-6  Jf. 

Eppstein  (605  ft),  a  straggling  little  town  with  800  inhab.,  lies 
in  the  Lorshacher-Thal,  above -the  month  of  the  Fiichbach-Thal  and 
below  those  of  the  Draishach^TJial  and  Ooldbach-Thal.  On  a  pre- 
cipitous rock  above  the  place  rises  the  picturesque  Castle  of  the 
same  name,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  1120,  the  ancestral 
seat  of  a  celebrated  family,  five  members  of  which  were  archbishops 
and  electors  of  Mayence  between  1060  and  1305.  It  is  now  the 
property  of  Prince  Stolherg-Wemigerode. 

On  a  (26  min.)  projection  of  the  Stavfen  is  the  Kaiser- Tetnpel.  Adjacent 
is  the  hotel  mentioned  above.  Fine  view.  The  summit  of  the  Staufen 
(1480  ft. ;  3/4  )xr.  to  the  £. ;  yellow  way-marks)  is  occupied  by  a  private  villa 
and  a  belvedere.  —  Good  views  are  also  obtained  from  the  (1/4  hr.) 
Malerpldtzehen  and  the   O/2  ^•)  Colossal-Bank. 

The  Rostert  (1690  ft.),  which  is  easily  reached  from  Eppstein  in 
1  hr.  by  a  path  (yellow  marks)  ascending  the  valley  and  then  by  a  road 
to  the  left,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valleys  of  the  Rhine  and  Main. 
Below  the  summit  is  a  refnee-hut,  shaded  bv  trees  (rflmts.  on  Sun.).  From 
the  Rossert  to  Konigstein  ^^hr.,  see  p.  246. 

Immediately  below  Eppstein  the  Konigstein  road  diverges  to  the 
K.E.  from  the  Lorsbach  valley,  ascending  the  Fischbach-Thal  to  (IV4  M.) 
Fischhaeh  (730  ft. ;  p.  248).  It  then  traverses  a  lofty  plateau  to  (2V4  M.) 
BchMidhain ,  whence  a  light  railway  runs  to  (IV2  M.)  Kifnigstein  (p.  246). 

Beyond  Eppstein  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel.  —  From 
(2SM.S)Niedemhausen  (848  ft.)  a  branch-line  diyerges  to  Auringen- 
Medehbachy  Igstadt^  Erbenheim^  and  (12^2 M.)  Wiesbaden  (p.  145). 

28  M.  Idstein  (872  ft. ;  Lamrriy  well  spoken  of;  Mersi ;  Deutscher 
Kaiser)^  a  town  of  3000  inhab.,  with  many  old  houses,  was  once  the 
residence  of  a  branch  of  the  Nassau  family ;  the  chlLteau,  re-erected 
in  the  16- 17th  cent.,  is  to  be  restored;  the  church,  richly  adorned 
with  marble,  dates  from  1667.  The  Grosse  Feldberg  (p.  246)  may 
be  ascended  hence  in  Si/jhrs.  —  31 M.  Worsdorf.  —  From  (34  M.) 
Camberg  (700  ft.,  Gutenberger  Hof),  a  little  town  with  2300  In- 
hab. ,  the  top  of  the  Feldberg  may  be  reached  in  4V2  hrs. 

About  9  M.  to  the  E.  lies  Neu-Weilnau  (1276  ft.  -,  Janz,  R.  1-1  Vs,  D.  1^2, 

Sens.  3V4-4  Jf)y  in  the  prettiest  part  of  the  wooded  valley  of  the  Weil. 
pposite  is  Alt'Weilnatt  (1288  ft.),  with  a  ruined  castle.  —  From  Neu-Weilnau 
a  yellow-marked  path  leads  to  (3  M.)  Schmitten  (1610  ft. ;  Ochs),  frequented 
by  consumpiives-    Diligence  to  Anspach,  see  p.  246. 

36^2  ^*  Nieder-SelterB  (Caspari;  Hilgers)^  formerly  belonging 
to  the  Electorate  of  Treves. 

Nieder-Selters  has  been  celebrated  since  the  16th  cent,  for  its  mineral 
waters,  in  which  carbonate  of  soda  and  salt  are  agreeably  blended ,  and 
widely  known  under  the  erroneous  name  of  'Seltzer  Water'.  The  build- 
ings of  the  spring  are  near  the  station. 

39V2  M.  Oberbrechen;  41  M.  Niederbreehen. 

44  M.  Limbnrg,  on  the  Lahn,  see  p.  218. 


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250 

30.  From  Frankfort  or  Mayence  to  Mannheim  and 
Heidelberg. 

a.  Yi&  Lampertheim  to  Maxmlieini  (CarUruhe), 

50Vt  M.  (or  471/r  M.).  Railway  in  1V«-2V«  lw«.  (<»res  from  Frankfort 
6  ur  25,  4  ur  15,  2  ur  70  pf.;  from  Mayence  6  Jf  10,  4  UTIO,  2ur60pf.). 

From  Frankfort  to  (4  M.)  Goldstein,  see  pp.  239,  240.  91/2  M. 
Walldorf;  IOV2  M.  Morfelden,  —  16  M.  Domherg  is  the  junction 
for  Mayence  (p.  261).  I8V2  M.  Domheim;  2OV2  M.  Leeheim- 
Wolfskehlen.  —  21^/2  M.  Goddelau  ••  Erfelden  is  the  junction  for 
the  Darmstadt  and  Worms  railway  (p.  254),  which  coincides  with 
the  Mannheim  line  as  far  as  Blblls  (see  helOw).  23V2  M.  Stoek- 
stadt,  on  the  Rhine;  26 M.  Biebesheim,  —  28  M.  Oernsh^m  (Pott ; 
Darmatadter  Hof)^  a  small  and  busy  town  on  the  Rhine,  with  4000 
Inhab.,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  773  and  destroyed  by  M^ac 
in  1689.  It  contains  a  monument  to  Peter  Schoffer,  one  of  the 
inventors  of  printing  (p.  225),  who  was  bom  here.  —  30^/2  M. 
Qro88-Itohrheim.  At  (33  M.)  BihlU,  with  a  handsome  church  with  two 
towers ,  the  line  to  Rosengarten  and  Worms  diverges  to  the  right 
(p.  254).  36  M.  Burstadt^  junction  of  the  Benshelm  and  Worms 
railway  (p.  256).  —  391/2 M.  Lampertheim  (Rehatock;  Schwan),  the 
junction  of  a  branch-line  to  Rosengarten  and  Worms ,  is  a  town 
with  8200  inhab.  and  a  large  new  church.  Our  line  divides  here, 
the  right  branch  leading  by  Waldhof  to  the  (4772  M.)  Neckar  suburb 
of  Mannheim,  while  the  left  passes  Waldhof  MikKdf erthal  and  leads 
to  the  central  station  at  (501/2  M.)  Mannheim  (p.  276). 

Continuation  of  the  railway  to  Carlsruhcy  see  p.  279. 

b.  Vi&  Darmstadt  to  Heidelberg  and  Mannheim. 

Ftom  Frankfort  to  Darmstadt  (17  M.)  railway  in  »/«-!  h'.  (fares  1  Jl  95, 
1  JT  30,  86  pf.  ^  express  fares  2ur30,  lUTSS,  lUTlO  pf.).  From  Mayence 
to  Darmstadt  (21  M.)  railway  in  V4-I  hr.  (fares  3  UT,  2  UT,  1  UT  30  pf. ; 
express  fares  3  •#  40  or  2  •#  40  pf.).  From  Darmstadt  to  Heidelberg  or 
Mannheim,  38  M.,  in  lVs-2  hrs.  (fares  to  Heidelberg  4  UT  25,  2  Ul  80, 
1  Ur  80  pf.;  express  fares  5  UT  10,  3  UT  40,  2  UT  45  pf.;  to  Mannheim 
5-20  pf.  more).    Best  views  to  the  left  OE,). 

From  FaANKPORT  to  Darmstadt.  Beyond  the  imposing  sand- 
stone bridge  oyer  the  Main  a  branch-line  diverges  to  l^e  left  to 
Offenbach,  and  farther  on  the  *Hes8lsche  Ludwigsbahn'  to  the  right 
to  Mayence  and  Mannheim  (p.  240).  On  the  hills  to  the  left  ia 
the  Sachsenhduser  Warte,  From  (21/^  M.)  Louisa  a  branch-line 
runs  via  Sachsenhausen  (p.  236)  to  (5  M.)  Offenbach,  —  The  fol- 
lowing stations  are  for  the  most  part  some  distance  from  the  unim- 
portant villages  after  which  they  are  named.  The  railway  from 
Mayence  to  Darmstadt  passes  beneath  our  line  shortly  before  we 
reach  (17  M.)  Darmstadt. 

From  Mayenob  to  Darmstadt.  Starting  froii  the  central 
station,  the  train  runs  under  the  citadel  to  the  Neuthor  station, 
and  crosses  the  liudwigshafen  railway  (p.  279)  an4  the.  Rhine. 

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DARMSTADT  30.  Route,    251 

21/2  M.  Ou8tav9berg^Ko8theim  (p.  240).  5  M.  Bischofsheim  is  the 
junction  for  the  Frankfort  Railway  (p.  240)  and  for  the  junction- 
line,  now  under  constmction,  to  Castel  (Wiesbaden).  10  M.  NaU" 
heim.  From  (I21/2  M.)  Orossgerau  a  hranch-line  runs  to  Domherg, 
the  junction  of  the  line  to  Mannheim  vift  Lampertheim  (p.  250).  — 
131/2  M.  KUingerau;  17  M.  Weiterstadt.  —  21  M.  Darmstadt^  where 
carriages  are  nsnally  changed. 


Darmfltadt  (see  Plan).  —  BaUway  Btattons.  1.  Main-Nechar 
Station  (PI.  A,  2;  restaurant),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Bahnhofs-Platz.  — 
2.  Eetnan  Station  {Ludtoigtbahnhof ;  *Bestaurant},  on  the  17.  side  of  the 
Bahnhofs-Platz,  also  for  the  Odenwald  line.  ~  3.  Rosenhdhe  (PI.  E,  2),  on 
the  Odenwald  Railway. 

Hotels.  •TuADBE  (PI.  a;  B,  2),  Luisen-Platz  6,  R.  2V«^,  B.  IV4,  D.  3  UT; 
"^Bbitannia  (Pi.  d|  B,  2),  Bhein-Str.  85,  B.  3^,  B.  IV4.  D.  3  JH,  omn.  60  pf. ; 
Darmstadter  Hof  (PI.  bi  B,  2),  Bhein-Str.  12,  B.  3-4,  B.  I-IV2,  D.  3  UT; 
Railway  Hotel,  at  the  Hessian  Station;  H6tbl  K6hlbr  (Pi.  c;  A,  3), 
Bhein-Str.  60,  well  spoken  of?  Prinz  Karl  (PI.  e;  C,  3),  Garl-Str.  1. 

Bestaurants.  Britannia^  aee  a,\ioye\  Wiener  Ca/i^  Bhein-Str.  28 ;  Burg- 
ftr^ii,  Wilhelminen-Str.,  very  fair;  Palais  Restaur ant^  Hugel-Str.  35;  Fttrsten- 
hdlle  (wine  and  Inncheon  rooms).  —  CapAS.  Wiener  Caf4^  see  above ;  Eiehberff^ 
Rhein-Str.  16.  near  the  Lndwigg-Saule.  —  Confectioner.     0«,  Hiigel-Str. 

Baths.  Alice  Bad.  Maner-Str.  17;  ilToM,  Martin-Str.  22.  —  Swimming 
Baths  in  the  Wcog  (PI.  E,  2;  42  pf.,  incl.  towel). 

Cab  with  one  horse  for  V*  hr.,  for  1-2  pers.  60,  3-4  pers.  80  pf. ;  with 
two  horses  80pf.,  iJl;  for  V«hr.  1  UT,  1  jT 40,  1  UT  40,  lUTSOpf.;  1  hr. 
2  Jf,2  Jf  40l  2  ur  60,  3  ur  10  pf.  —  From  the  stations  10  pf.  extra. 

Electric  Tramways  (ev.  7  min. ;  10  pf.) :  1.  Prom  the  Bdhnhofs-Platz 
(PI.  A,  2)  to  the  NiederranutOdter-Str.  (PI.  D,  4).  —  2.  From  the  Carl- Sir. 
(to  the  8.  of  PL  B,  C,  4)  to  the  Didmrger-Str.  (PI.  D,  1). 

Steam  Tramway  from  the  Schloss  to  Oriesheim  (p.  254 ;  comp.  PI.  C,  B, 
A,  2)i  and  from  the  Lnisen-Platz  to  Eberstadt  (p.  265;  comp.  PI.  B,  A, 
2,  3,  4)  and  to  Arheiligen  (comp.  PI.  B,  2,  1). 

Theatre  {Hof-Theater;  PI.  G,  2),  in  the  Theater-Platz,  for  operas  and 
dramas  (closed  in  summer). 

Art  Bxhibition  in  the  Kunsi-  Verein^  Bhein-Strasse.  —  The  Verein  tur 
FOrderung  OemeinnHtziger  Zweeke,  Stein-Str.  2,  gives  every  information  to 
strangers. 

British  Cha^i  d* Affaires,  Arthur  James  Herbert.  Esq. 

English  Ghureh  Service  in  the  Palace  Chapel  at  11  a.m.  and  4.30p.m.; 
H.  C.  on  the  Ist  and  3rd  Sun.  in  each  month. 

Darmstadt  (480  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Grand-Duchy  of  Hesse, 
with  72,000  inhab.,  a  town  with  broad,  quiet  streets  and  tasteful 
pleasnre-grounds,  was,  though  dating  from  the  11th  cent,  and  the 
residence  of  the  Landgraves  of  Hesse  -  Darmstadt  since  1567,  a 
place  of  no  Importance  down  to  the  close  of  the  18th  century.  The 
Grand-Duke  Lewis  I.  (d.  1830)  erected  the  new  part  of  the  town, 
and  to  him  Darmstadt  is  indebted  for  its  prosperity. 

In  front  of  the  Railway  Stations  fPl.  A,  2)  is  a  bust,  hy  Bersch, 
of  the  chemist  Justus  von  Liehig  (180o-73),  a  native  of  Darmstadt. 
Opposite  the  Hessian  Station  are  the  Bank  of  Commerce  and  the 
South  German  Bank,  huilt  in  1875. 

The  Rhein-Str.  leads  hence,  past  the  New  Town  HaU,  to  the 
Luisen-Platz  (PI.  B,  2),  which  contains  a  Statue  of  Orand-Duke 
Lewis  I. ,  by  Schwan thaler,  erected  to  him  by  his  ^grateful  people' 


252   Route  30.  DARMSTADT.  From  Frankfort 

in  1844;  the  statue  is  l)orne  by  a  column,  140  ft.  in  height,  the 
summit  of  which  affords  a  fine  view  (fee  50  pf.).  In  the  same  square 
are  the  Post  Office,  huilt  in  1877-82,  the  8tdndehau8,  and  the 
Kanzlei'Qehdude.  In  the  Mathilden-Platz,  close  by,  are  a  handsome 
fountain  and  a  bust  of  Alt  VogUr  (1779-1814),  the  teacher  of 
Weber  and  Meyerbeer. 

The  Orand-Duoal  Palace  (PI.  0, 2)  was  begun  in  the  15th  cent, 
and  largely  rebuilt  by  the  Landgrave  George  I.  at  the  end  of  the 
16th  cent. ;  the  portals,  belonging  to  that  period,  but  finished  after 
the  landgrave's  death,  are  a  good  specimen  of  the  German  Renais- 
sance. The  bulk  of  the  building  was  erected  in  1715-27,  from  the 
designs  of  Rouge  de  la  Fosse,  The  tower  contains  a  chime  of  bells 
(1671).  —  The  entrance  to  the  Palace  Collections  is  by  the  archway 
in  the  Markt-Platz.  A  flight  of  58  steps  ascends  to  the  first  floor, 
where  the  library  is  to  the  left,  the  Landes-Museum  to  the  right. 

The  valuable  Library  consists  of  about  450,000  vols.,  4000  MSS., 
and  numerous  typographical  curiosities;  it  is  open  on  week-days  to 
visitors  ll-12a.m.,  to  students  9-1  a.m.  and  (except  Sat.) 3-6  (in 
winter  2-4)  p.m.  —  The  Orand- Ducal  National  Museum  (^Landes- 
Museum;  Director,  Prof.  Back)  is  open  free  on  Tues.,  Wed.,  and 
Frid.  11-1,  and  on  Thurs.  3-5  (in  winter  2-4) ;  also  at  other  times 
for  a  fee.  It  comprizes  an  Archaeological  Collection  (good  catalogue 
1  uSf)  of  prehistoric,  Roman ,  and  Prankish  antiquities  (notably  a 
large  Roman  mosaic  pavement) ;  a  Mediaeval  ar^  Modem  Collection 
of  enamels  from  the  Lower  Rhine  and  from  Limoges,  ivory  carvings 
of  the  5th  and  10-18th  cent.,  wood -carvings  (Crucifixion  by 
T.  Riemenscheider),  armour,  weapons,  etc. ;  and  a  Natural  History 
Collection.  —  On  the  upper  floor  is  the  — 

*PiOTUBB  Gallbbt,  a  collection  formed  for  the  most  part  during 
the  18th  and  19th  cent. 

Room  I :  Pictures  by  Schmidty  Seekatz,  Fiedler^  Schiitz^  Kobell^  Morgen- 
steniy  etc.,  chiefly  of  the  18th  cent.;  also  several  modem  pictures.  On 
the  main  wall,  to  the  left:  136.  Schirmer,  Heidelberg  Castle^  134.  Mcrgen- 
stern.  Valley  of  the  Isar:  137.  Lessing^  Evening-scene  on  the  Moselle;  126. 
S'hilbachj  Castel  Gandolfo;  *157p.  A.  Feuerbach,  Iphigeneia  (1862).  —  In  the 
middle,  1st  Sec. :  SeekatZy  69.  Children  in  the  poultry-yard,  47.  Portrait  of 
himself.  2nd  Sec. :  29.  Fiedler^  Open-air  concert*,  129.  Stekibrilck^  Genovefa; 
148-151.  Achenbachy  Four  small  Dutch  landscapes.  3rd  Sec. :  125.  Rottmann, 
Landscape;  133o.  M.  von  Schtnndj  Lady  and  page;  103.  /.  A.  Koch^  Tivoli. 
On  a  stand:  ^158.  Thomay  Scene  m  the  Taunus. 

Room  II.  Modem  Germui  Works.  Principal  WaOl:  •158m.  Brctcht, 
Shores  of  oblivion;  146.  Enkuber^  Bavarian  court  of  justice;  159b.  E.  Hen' 
selei't  Social  democrats;  155.  Noacky  Religious  disputation  between  Luther 
and  Zwingli  at  Marburg ;  159n.  H.  Heimy  Knitting  in  the  Odenwald.  —  In 
the  middle,  1st  Sec. :  146d.  8ehleiehy  Autumn-morning;  Lenbaeh,  167x.  Makart 
the  painter,  167z.  Baron  Liphart ;  159e.  TrUbnery  View  in  Heidelberg  Castle. 
2nd  Sec. :  158r.  Uhde^  Saying  grace  (1897) ;  158e.  Munthty  Winter-scene ;  157y. 
Lenbachy  Passini,  the  painter;  157a.  Ovdey  Sea-piece. 

Room  III.  Early  German  and  Flemish  Schools  (15-16th  cent.).  In  the 
passage:  234.  Holbein  the  Eldevy  Pietk.  ~  Principal  Wall :  U.GrUnewald  (t), 
243.  Virgin  and  Child,  24da.  Altar-panels  with  saints;  231.  Upper  German 
School  ( Wohlgemuth  f)y  Mount  of  Olives;  241.  O.  PencZy  Portrait  of  a  man; 
225.  H.  Baldung  Grien,  Christ  as  gardener  (late  work,  1589;  damaged);  198. 


to  BHddberg.  DARMSTADT.  30.  BouU,    253 

3.  Bruyn  the  Elder,  Portrait  (1539);  *168.  Stephan  Lochner  (the  master  of 
the  Dombild  at  Cologne),  Presentation  in  the  Temple  (1447).  —  In  the  middle, 
1st  Sec:  249.  Cranach^  Virgin  and  Child;  193.  Patinir^  Madonna  in  a  hilly 
landscape;  •226.  Holbein  the  Younger^  Portrait  (1515);  170.  Master  of  the 
St.  Bartholomew  Altar,  Virgin  and  saints. 

Room  IV.  Dutch  and  Flemish  Schools  (17th  cent.).  In  the  passage: 
*275.  Seuehatelj  Portrait.  —  Principal  Wall :  396.  Pcml  Potter,  Stable ;  323. 
A.  de  Bie,  Old  woman*,  ^296.  Rubens^  Diana  hunting  (ca.  1620;  mainly 
executed  by  pnpils);  *350.  School  of  Rembrandt  (B.  Fabritiuef),  Simeon 
in  the  Temple.  —  In  the  middle,  1st  Sec:  ••347.  RembratuU,  Scourging 
of  Christ  (1658).  2nd  Sec :  386,  387.  0.  van  den  Eeckhout^  Portraits ;  405. 
P.  de  Hooghe  (Sam.  van  Hoogstratenf)^  Parrot;  •368.  Th.  de  Key»er{^\ 
Officer;  845.  A.  Brouwer,  Boors;  •383.  Aart  van  der  Neer^  Landscape  by 
moonlight;  406.  Jn  the  style  of  ffobbema,  Landscape.  Prd  Sec:  349.  School 
of  Rembrandt  (FcU>ritivs  f},  Christ  at  Emmaus. 

Boom  V.  Dutch  and  Flemish  Schools.  In  the  passage ;  322.  Lucas  vam 
Uden,  Landscape.  Principal  Wall:  ''369.  B.  van  der  HeM,  Full-length  of 
an  old  woman.  —  In  the  middle,  1st  Sec. :  304.  Teniers  the  Elder^  Peasants 
dancing;  328.  Van  Dyek  (t),  Portrait  of  a  man;  •271.  P.  Brueghel  the  Elder, 
Dance  under  the  gallows-tree  (1568).  —  2nd  Sec. :  337.  Ph.  de  Champaigne, 
Portrait;  876,  377.  Ocnsales  Coques,  Portraits. 

Boom  VI.  326.  Jan  Porcellis,  Calm  sea;  293.  C.  van  Voort  (?) ,  Portrait 
of  the  organist  J.  P.  Swilling. 

Boom  Vll.  French  School.  489,  490.  Vanloo,  Portrait  of  Louis  XV. 
and  his  Queen  Maria  Lesczinska. 

Boom  VIII.  ItaUans.  In  the  middle,  Ist  Sec:  630,  631.  B.  Belotto 
(Canaletto),  Grand  Canal;  •619.  Titian,  Portrait  (1565).  2nd  Sec:  541. 
Ann.  Carracci,  Small  full-length  portrait  of  a  man  (1603);  647.  Carlo 
Caliari,  Venus  and  Adonis. 

Boom  IX.  In  the  middle,  1st  Sec:  629.  Paris  Bordone  (?),  Portrait; 
578.  Sassoferrato,  Pietk.  2nd  Sec:  612d.  School  of  Giotto,  Madonna.  — 
Bear-wall:  612.  J/,  de  Cerezo,  Tobias  and  the  Angel. 

On  application  at  the  steward's  oflice  (first  door  to  the  right  in  the 
'KirchenhoP),  visitors  are  conducted  by  an  attendant  to  the  Assembly  Rooms 
and  Imperial  Rooms  (decorated  in  the  rococo  and  *£mpire*  styles)  and  iilso 
to  inspect  the  celebrated  ••Madonna  with  the  family  of  Burgomaster  Meyer 
of  B&le,  by  Holbein  the  Younger,  painted  in  1626.  A  skilful  restoration  by 
A.  Hauser  (1888)  has  removed  much  of  the  repainting  of  some  of  the  heads, 
and  the  work  again  shines  with  its  original  glory. 

In  the  square  in  front  of  the  Palace  {?\.  B,  C,2)  stands  a  bronze 
Ecpieitrian  Statue  of  Lewis  IV.  (d.  1892),  by  Schaper,  nnveiled  in 
1898.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  square  is  the  New  Museum,  in  front  of 
which  stands  the  War  Monument,  for  1870-71,  by  Herzig.  —  The 
New  Museum,  built  by  A.  Weasel,  which  is  to  be  opened  early  in 
1904,  will  contain  the  collections  enumerated  on  p.  252. 

The  arrangement  of  the  rooms  will  be  as  follows :  to  the  right,  In- 
dustrial and  Technical  Arts,  the  Boman  Court  (archseological  collection), 
and  the  Numismatic  Collection ;  to  the  left,  the  Armoury  and  the  Medieeval 
Court  (Romanesque-Gothic  section).  The  W.  wing  will  contain  the  Historical 
Collection,  distributed  over  three  floors  and  exhibited  in  rooms  fitted  up  in 
the  styles  of  the  periods  represented.  The  E.  wing  will  contain  the  sculptures. 
The  Zoological  and  Kineralogical  Collections  will  be  housed  in  Ihe  lower  floors 
of  the  main  building  (towards  the  N.),  and  above  them  will  be  the  Picture 
Gallery  and  the  Engravings.  Ihe  lower  floor  in  the  front  part  of  the  building 
will  contain  the  Hessian  Peasants'  Rooms  and  the  Ethnographical  Collection. 

Between  the  New  Museum  and  the  Thbatbb  (PI.  C,  2),  rebuilt 
since  its  destruction  by  fire  in  1871,  are  Statues,  by  Scholl,  of  the 
landgrave  Philip  the  Generous  (d.  1567)  and  his  son  George  I. 
(d.  1596),  founder  of  the  grand-ducal  family. 


y  Google 


254  Route  30.  PARMSTADT.  From  Frankfort 

Adjacent  is  the  entrance  to  the  Hbil&bn*Gabtbn  (Pi.  B,  0,  1), 
which  is  well  laid  out.  Under  an  ivy-clad  hill  here  reposes  the 
Landgravine  Henrietta  Carolina  (d.  1774'),  'femlna  sexu,  ingenio  vir' 
according  to  the  inscription  on  the  urn  dedicated  to  her  by  Fred- 
erick the  Great.  —  To  the  E.  is  the  Technieal  Academy  (PL  0,  2; 
50  professors  and  about  1400  students). 

In  the  Markt  (Pi.  0, 2)  stands  the  Old  Town  HaU,  a  simple  Re- 
naissance building  of  1600.  In  the  Kirch-Strasse,  to  the  S.E.,  is  the 
Stadtkirche  (PI.  0, 3),  with  a  Gothic  choir  (1500)  and  the  elaborate 
Renaissance  monument  of  Landgrave  George  I.  —  Farther  on,  to 
the  S.E.,  are  the  new  BealSchule  and  the  Gymnasium^  founded  in 
1627.  In  the  gardens  in  front  of  the  latter  is  the  modem  Gothic 
Stadt-Capelle  (PL  C,  3).  —  In  the  Wilhelndnen-Platz  (PL  B,  3)  is 
a  monument  to  the  Qrand-Duchess  Alice  (see  below),  from  Habich's 
designs,  erected  in  1902.  The  modern  Roman  Catholic  CAixrc^ (usual 
entrance  at  the  S.E.  angle),  to  the  S.,  contains  the  well-executed 
marble  sarcophagus  of  the  Grand-Duchess  MathUde  (d.  1862),  with  a 
recumbent  figure  of  the  princess  by  Widnmann,  —  On  the  W.  side 
of  the  Platz  is  the  New  Palace  of  the  Qrand-Duke,  built  in  1865, 
In  the  Italian  Renaissance  style. 

To  the  E.  of  the  town  rises  the  Mathildenhdhe  (PL  D,  £,  1,  2), 
with  the  Alice  Hospital  (PL  D,  1 ;  station  of  the  electric  tramway 
No.  2,  p.  251).  The  Mathildenhdhe  is  the  seat  of  an  Artists'  Colony, 
established  in  1901,  with  the  houses  and  studios  of  several  well- 
known  painters  and  sculptors.  Adjacent  is  the  reservoir  of  the 
Tovon  Water  Works  (view).  —  Farther  to  the  E.,  beyond  the  Oden- 
wald  Railway  {Rosenhohe  station,  see  p.  262),  is  the  Bosenhdhe 
(PL  F,  1,  2),  with  the  Palace  of  the  same  name,  and  the  Orand- 
Ducal  Mausoleum^  containing  the  remains  of  the  Grand -Duke 
Lewis  IV.  (d.  1892)  and  his  wife,  Princess  AUce  of  EngUnd(d.  1878). 
The  *Tomb  of  the  Princess  Elisabeth,  who  died  when  a  child  ,  wWi 
a  recumbent  figure  in  marble,  is  by  Rauch  (1831). 

Environs  of  Dabhstadt.  Pleasant  walks  may  be  made  in  the  exten- 
sive woods.  —  To  the  N.E.  of  Darmstadt  are  karUhof  (V«  hr  ),  the  Fasa- 
nerie  (1  hr.),  the  hunting-Beat  of  Kranichstein  (20  min.),  and  the  forester^s 
honse  of  Einsiedel  (1  hr.^  to  the  S.  the  LudwigAdhe  (796  ft.;  40  mia.), 
with  view-tower  and  restaurant,  and  the  Rabenflot$kopf  (iVs  hr.),  with  the 
Albrechts-Thurm. 

Fbom  Darmstadt  to  Worms,  27V2M.,  railway  in  l-li/ahr.  (fares  3  Jf  80, 
2  •#  70,  1  •#  90  pf.).  6  M.  Oriesheim^  with  an  extensive  artillery-range 
and  camp  (steam-tramway,  p.  251);  9M.  Wolfskehlen;  10  H.  Goddelau-Er/elden, 
the  junction  of  the  Frankfort  and  Mannheim  line  (p.  250),  which  coincides 
with  the  Worms  line  as  far  as  (21  M.)  Biblis.  24  M.  So/heim  (im  Bied),  the 
junction  of  the  Bensheim  and  Worms  line  (p.  266).  We  cross  the  Rhine  by 
means  of  an  iron  bridge  to  (26V2  M.)  Worms-RJteinj  the  harbour-station.  The 
train  makes  a  circuit  round  the  N.  side  of  the  town.  —  27V2M.  Worms  (p.  281). 

From  Darmstadt  to  Mannheim,  3872  M.  (fares  4  UlT  35,  2  UlT  90, 
Jl  90  pf.;  express  fares  4 uT  65,  3ur  5  pf.,  2  Jf).  To  Goddelau-Er- 
felden,  see  above;  thence  to  Mannheim^  see  p.  250. 

From  Darmstadt  to  Merbach,  see  R.  31b. 

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to  Heidelbefg,  JUOENHEIM.  30,  Route.    255 

171/2  M.  Bestungen,  now  a  snbnrb  of  Darmstadt,  with  two 
gardens  belonging  to  the  Orand-Duke.  —  Near  this  point  begins 
the  Bergstra^se,  an  old  road  originally  constructed  by  the  Romans, 
skirting  the  fruit  andyine-cladW.  slopes  of  the  Odenwald  (to  which 
the  name  'Bergstrasse'  is  sometimes  applied  in  a  wider  sense),  and 
leading  to  Heidelberg.  —  2OV2  M.  Eberstadt  (Traube;  Darmstadter 
Hof),  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  A  branch-line  runs  hence  to 
(1^2  M.)  the  busy  little  town  of  Pfungstadt  (Strauss ,  with  garden), 
with  6300  inhab.  and  a  well-known  brewery.  —  On  the  hills  to  the 
left  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Frankenstein  (1110  ft.),  commanding 
a  splendid  *View  (inn).  The  chapel  contains  tombs  of  the  16-1 7th 
centuries.  —  25  M.  Bickenbach,  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to 
Jugenheim  and  Seeheim. 

Fbom  Bioksnbagh  to  SssaKiM,  8  M.,  railway  in  V4  hr.  —  IV4  M.  Alt- 
baeh  (Krone ;  Sonne,  botb  plain).  Above,  to  the  right,  1/2  hr.  from  Alsbach 
and  */4  hr.  from  Zwingenberg  (see  below) ,  is  Burg  Bickenbach  or  the  Ah- 
backer  Behiou  (775  ft),  with  an  embattled  tower.  From  this  point  we  may 
ascend  the  Melibocus  in  ^k  hr.,  or  follow  the  winding  ^Herrenweg^  (blue 
marks)  to  the  (2hrs.)  Auerbacher  Schloss,  or  walk  on  to  (1  hr.)  Jugenheim. 

2  M.  Jugenheim  (530  ft.-,  "Ootdene  Krone  A  Alexander-Bad^  Poet^  pension 
at  both  i^/T^Jlt  DeutschetHaut;  BchioU'Hdtel)^  a  favourite  summer-resort, 
with  pleasant  villas.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  the  chateau  of  EeiUgenberg 
(710  ft.),  the  residence  of  Prince  Lewis  of  Battenberg  (fine  views  in  the 
park).  On  the  way  to  it  we  pass  a  ruined  convent,  near  which,  are  some 
(immured)  gravestones  of  the  15th  cent,  and  the  *Gentlinde\  an  old  lime- 
tree  marking  the  site  of  a  ^Centgericht'  or  Gourt  of  a  Hundred.  On  an 
eminence  to  the  W.  are  a  conspicuous  golden  cross,  erected  by  the  Empress 
Mary  of  Russia  (d.  18^)  to  her  mother,  the  Grand -Dachess  Wilhelmina 
(d.  1836),  and  the  Mausoleum  of  Prince  Alexander  of  Hesse  (d.  1888). 

3  M.  8eeh«im  (450  ft. ;  Hufiiagel^  very  fair,  pens.  4-5  •#),  where  there  is 
a  grand-ducal  summer-chateau,  the  garden  of  which  is  open  to  the  public. 
Above  Seeheim  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Tannenberg  (1115  ft.),  destroyed 
in  1399  \  it  is  scarcely  visible  from  below. 

271/2  M.  Zwingenberg  (318ft. ;  Lowe ,  with  garden,  pens.  874-4, 
very  fair),  an  old  town,  with  1600  inhab.,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
wooded  Melibocus  or  Malehen  (1690  ft.),  the  highest  point  of  the 
Bergstrasse  and  entirely  of  granite.  On  the  summit  is  a  tower, 
erected  in  1772  (fee  26  pf.,  for  a  party  1  Jf;  refreshments). 

The  ascent  of  the  MelxDoeua,  often  combined  with  that  of  the  Fels* 
berg,  may  be  made  from  Alsbach,  Zwingenberg,  Jugenheim,  or  Auerbach. 
Paths  all  marked  \  carriage  to  the  top  10^12  «#.  —  Fbom  Alsbach  (IV4  hr.) 
we  may  ascend  either  via  the  castle  or  by  another  path  more  to  the  E.  — 
Fbom  Jugenheim  (IVrl*/*  hr.)  we  proceed  to  the  mouth  of  the  BalkMtuer 
Thai  and  then  take  either  the  old  route  (r.)  vi&  the  Leaer  erg  or  the  new 
route  n. )  blue  and  white  marks)  vi&  the  Roberteruhe.  The  two  routes  unite 
(3/4  hr.)  near  the  Eattenberger  Schneise.  —  Fbom  Zwinoenbebg  (IV4  hr.) 
the  shorter  route  leads  to  the  E.  from  the  ^LdtDe"  and  ascends  the  hill; 
after  8  min.  the  path  follows  the  water-conduit  to  the  right,  leads  through 
a  small  fir-wood  over  the  Ltuieberg^  and  in  25  min.  more  regains  the 
carriage-road,  which  is  furnished  with  direction-posts.  —  Fbom  the  Au6b- 
baohbb  S0HLO88  (V4  hr.)  we  follow  the  'Herrenweg'  (blue  and  white  marks) 
to  the  *Nothgottes-Sattel%  and  then  (Orange  marks)  ascend  direct. 

29^2  M.  Auerbach.  —Hotels.  *Ebonb,  established  originally  in  the 
17th  cent.,  R.  ls/4,  pens.  4-6  Jfj  Baubb ^  Tbaubb,  B.  1V4-2,  pens,  from  4«#.  — 
Lodgings,  R.  from  7  Jf  per  week.  —  Beer  at  the  SchOtzenhof.  —  Carriage- 
tariff  at  the  hotels.  r^^^r^I^ 

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256   Route  30.  AUERBACH,  From  FrankfoH 

Aiterbach  (330  ft  J,  a  picturesque  Tillage  of  1800  inhab. ,  men- 
tioned as  early  as  7y5,  is  a  favourite  summer-resort,  and  affords 
good  headquarters  for  excursions  in  the  W.  part  of  the  Odenwald. 
Good  wine  is  produced  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  best  quality  being 
called  Rottwein. 

The  *Auerbacher  Schloss  is  situated  on  an  eminence  (1150  ft.; 
inn)  to  the  N.E.  of  the  village,  whence  footpaths  ascend  on  the 
S.  and  "W.  sides  of  the  hill  in  V2-*/4  ^r*  The  carriage-road  leading 
through  the  Hochst&tter-Thal  skirts  the  S.  and  E.  sides.  Said  to 
have  been  founded  by  Charlemagne,  the  castle  appears  after  1257 
as  a  fortress  of  the  Counts  of  Katzenelnbogen,  held  at  first  as  a  fief 
of  the  monastery  of  Lorsch  (see  below),  and  then  of  the  Electorate  of 
Mayence.  The  present  building  dates  from  the  15th  cent. ;  in  1674 
it  was  blown  up  by  Turenne.  The  view  from  the  towers  is  less  ex- 
tensive but  more  picturesque  than  that  from  the  Melibocus.  —  A 
little  to  the  W.,  below  the  Nothgottes-Sattel  (p.  255),  the  found- 
ations of  the  ancient  Capelle  zur  Heiligen  Noth  Oottes  were  dis- 
covered in  1892,  and  the  site  of  the  altar  marked  by  a  new  crucifix. 
From  Auerbach  the  *Neue  Weg',  which  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  path  to  the  castle  at  the  upper  end  of  the  village,  leads  thither 
in  3/4  hr. 

Enviuons.  One  of  the  prettiest  points  near  Auerbach  is  the  Ffirst^i- 
lager,  a  small  chateau  built  during  tiie  18th  century  by  the  Landgraves  of 
Hesse ,  and  enlarged  by  Lewis  I.  (p.  261),  with  a  chalybeate  spring  and 
charming  grounds.  Coffee  and  milk  may  be  had  at  the  ch§,teau.  It  may  be 
reached  by  the  road  in  20  min.  from  the  ^Krone"  inn,  or  (pleasanter)  by 
following  the  path  to  the  right  indicated  by  the  finger-post  opposite  the  inn. 
—  The  walk  from  the  Auerbacher  Schloss  to  the  Fiirstenlager  is  also 
pleasant :  we  follow  the  broad  road  to  the  E.  as  far  as  the  mineral  spring 
in  the  ffoehsUitter-Thal  (refreshments  at  the  forester's),  pass  the  mill,  and 
turn  to  the  W.  to  the  Neun  AuisicMen  (*nine  views'),  a  clearing  in  the 
wood,  where  nine  different  picturesque  views  are  obtained  through  the  nine 
forest-paths  which  converge  here.  Farther  on  we  reach  the  Fiirstenlager 
(l«/4  hr.  in  all).  —  About  Va  hr.  to  the  E.  of  the  Fiirstenlager  lies  SehOnberg 
(p.  260). 

30  M.  Bensheim  (330  ft.;  Beuter's  Hotel,  at  the  station; 
Deutsches  Haus,  Traube,  in  the  town)  is  a  busy  town  (7200  in- 
hab.)  in  a  picturesque  situation  at  the  entrance  of  the  Lauter-Thal, 
through  which  the  road  ascends  to  Schonberg  and  Beichenbach 
(p.  260).  It  dates  as  far  back  as  the  8th  century ,  and  till  1802 
belonged  to  Mayence.  The  two  churches,  Roman  Catholic  and  Pro- 
testant, are  modern. 

Fboh  Bensheim  to  Wobms,  14M.,  railway  in  about  «/4  hr.  —  3M.  Lorsch 
(4000  inhab. ;  ffdtel  Hartmann)^  on  the  WeschnitZy  with  ruins  of  a  monastery 
(Laureshamense  Monasterium),  founded  in  763  on  an  island  in  the  Weschnitz 
and  afterwards  removed  to  its  present  site.  In  788  Charlemagne  assigned 
it  as  a  place  of  banishment  to  Tassilo ,  Duke  of  Bavaria ,  who  had  been 
condemned  to  death  as  a  traitor.  To  the  E.  of  the  Markt-Platz,  V*  hr.  from 
the  station,  is  the  ^Miehaelt- Capelle  (key  kept  by  theisacristan  of  the  parish- 
church),  which  is  now  recognized  as  the  monastery  -  portal  erected  by 
Lewis  the  German  about  880  hi  the  style  of  a  Roman  triumphal  arch.  This 
building,  now  used  as  a  chapel,  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  best-pre- 
served specimens  of  the  architecture  of  the  period.    It  is  oblong  in  form, 

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to  Heidelberg,  WEINHEIM.  .  30.  Route.   257 

with  a  high-pitched  roof  and  a  round  apse  (now  used  for  the  staircase 
only).  The  two  stories  are  separated  by  a  leaf-pattern  frieze  resting  on 
four  composite  columns.  On  the  long  sides  large  round-headed  arches  have 
been  cut  between  the  pilasters ,  but  the  upper  story  seems  to  be  in  its 
original  condition.  This  story  is  adorned  with  an  arcade  of  nine  triangular- 
headed  arches  resting  on  Ionic  pilasters.  The  flat  surfaces  of  both  stories 
are  covered  with  a  rough  kind  of  mosaic  work ,  in  alternate  squares  of 
white  and  red.  The  interior  has  been  mach  modernized.  Lewis  himself, 
Lewis  III.,  and  Gunigunde,  wife  of  £mp.  Conrad  I.,  are  interred  at  Lorsch. 
Their  stone  coffins  seem  to  belong  to  the  Garlovingian  era.  The  Nibe- 
lungen-Lied  represents  the  vaults  at  Lorsch  as  the  burial-place  of  Sieg- 
fried and  Queen  Ute  (mother  of  Ghriemhilde).  Beyond  the  chapel  are 
some  portions  of  the  nave  of  the  convent-church,  which  was  consecrated 
in  1130. 

8  M.  BUrttadt  (p.  250)  ^  lOVt  M.  Hofheim  im  Ried,  and  thence  to  Worms, 
see  p.  254. 

Near  (33V2  M.)  Heppenheim  (328  ft.;  Halber  Mond;  Darm- 
ttadter  Hof;  6800  inhab.),  to  the  left  of  the  road,  rises  the  Landbetg, 
a  hill  crowned  with  three  trees,  where  the  provincial  tribunals  were 
held  in  the  middle  ages.  The  church  of  Heppenheim  was  founded 
by  Charlemagne,  according  to  an  old  inscription.  The  present 
edifice  is  of  later  times. 

The  ruin  of  Btarkenburg  (930  ft.)  is  reached  by  a  good  path  from 
Heppenheim  in  Vs  hr.  It  was  erected  in  1064  by  an  abbot  of  Lorsch, 
captured  by  the  Swedes  and  Spaniards  in  the  Thirty  Years'*  War,  and 
besieged  in  vain  by  Turenne  in  1674.  It  gives  its  name  to  a  province  of 
Hesse.    Fine  view  from  the  lofty  square  tower. 

The  train  now  enters  the  dominions  of  Baden.  35  M.  Louden- 
bach.   Beyond  (37  M.)  Hemsbaeh  we  cross  the  small  Weschnitz, 

40  M.  Weinheim.  —  Hotels.  PfIlzbb  Hof,  a  well-known  house, 
with  large  garden,  R.  IVz-S,  T).  2,  pens.  41/2-5  •#;  Vier  Jahsbszeiten,  in 
the  town ;  Pbinz  Wilhblm,  at  the  station. 

Weinheim  (345  ft.),  a  leather-making  town  of  11,200  inhab., 
lies  at  the  union  of  the  Qorxheim  and  Birkenau  valleys.  It  once 
belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Lorsch,  and  is  of  ancient  origin ,  though 
owing  to  its  destruction  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War  and  in  the 
devastation  of  the  Palatinate  in  1689,  there  are  few  old  buildings  of 
any  importance.  A  few  towers  belonging  to  the  former  fortifications, 
the  House  of  the  Teutonic  Order  (now  a  government-office),  and  the 
Gothic  Rathhaus  are  the  only  relics  of  its  former  prosperity.  The 
Gothic  towers  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  and  the  Berkheirri'sche 
Schloss  are  modern.  —  To  the  E.  rises  the  old  castle  of  Windeck 
(720  ft.),  with  its  high  conical  *Bergfried'  tower  (p.  127),  the  pro- 
perty of  the  monastery  of  Lorsch  in  the  12th  cent.,  afterwards  that 
of  the  Palatinate ,  commanding  a  beautiful  view.  Pleasant  walks 
may  also  be  taken  to  the  Fuchsen-Miihle  (garden-iestaurant ;  station 
on  the  railway  mentioned  at  p.  261)  in  the  Birkenauer-Thal^  the 
Oorxheimer-Thal ,  the  Kaatanienwald ,  the  Waehenberg  (1320  ft.), 
Oeier$berg  (1120  ft.),  Hirschkopf  (1145  ft.),  etc.  —  Hubberger,  the 
best  wine  of  the  Bergstrasse,  is  produced  near  Weinheim. 

Fbom  Wbinhbim  to  Heidelbeeg,  IOY2  M.J  steam-tramway  in  IV*  hr. 
along  the  Bergstrasse.    IVs  M.  LUtzel-Sacnten  (Traube),  known  for  its  red 

B4.bdk<br''8  Rhine.    16th  Edit.  17*        - 


258   BouUdl.  FELSBERG.  Odenwald. 

wine ;  2V3  M.  Oross-Sachten  (also  rail,  stat.,  see  below) ;  SVs  H.  LeuUrS' 
haiuen;  51/2  M.  Schrietheim  (Deutscher  Kaiser),  coaunanded  by  the  ruins 
of  the  atrahlenbwg  (670  ft.;  inn).  Then  past  the  former  stronghold  of 
Schauenburg  to  (7  M.)  Douenheim^  with  quarries  of  red  porphyry.  —  9  M. 
Handschuehsheim  (Krone;  Baditcher  So/;  Bother  Odi$e)^  much  visited  by 
Heidelberg  students.  The  line  passes  over  the  new  Neokar  bridge  and 
reaches  its  terminus  in  the  BUmarck- Piatt  at  (IOV2  M.)  Seidetberg  (p.  264) . 

Fbom  Weinhbim  to  Mannheik,  IOV2  M.,  steam  -  tramway  vii  Viem- 
heim  and  Kdferthal  (p.  250)  in  1  hr. 

Railway  from  Weinheim  to  FUrth^  see  p.  261. 

43  M.  OrossSachaen,  —  46  M.  Ladenburg  (Rose) ,  the  Roman 
Lopodunum ,  to  wMch  the  walls  and  towers,  and  the  old  Gothic 
church  of  St,  Gallus  (14th  cent.)  give  an  air  of  importance.  The 
Neckar  is  crossed  here  by  a  bridge  of  red  sandstone. 

48V4M.  Friedrichsfeld^  where  the  lines  to  Heidelberg  and  Mann- 
heim separate.  —  A  branch-line  leads  hence  to  (4V2M.)  Sehwetzingen 
(p.  275). 

55  M.  Heidelberg,  seep.  264.  — 541/4  M.  Mannheim,  see  p.  276. 

31.  The  Odenwald. 

The  Odenwald,  a  wooded  mountain-district  lying  between  Darmstadt  and 
Heidelberg  and  extending  on  the  E.  as  far  as  the  Main,  is  about  4DM.  in 
length  and  24-30  M.  in  breadth.  Its  W.  mass  is  formed  mainly  of  granite 
and  syenite,  its  £.  portion  of  variegated  sandstone.  The  highest  points  are 
the  Katzenbuckel  (2t055  ft.,  see  p.  mi.  the  Neunkircher  Hdhe  (1985  ft.,  see 
p.  259),  the  Krehberg  (1965  ft.,  see  p.  230),  the  Tronrn  (I860  ft,  see  p.  261), 
the  Meliboeu*  (1690  ft.,  see  p.  255),  and  the  Felsberg  (1645  ft.,  see  below). 
This  district  is  picturesque  and  interesting  at  places,  although  inferior  to 
the  Black  Forest.  The  Odenwald  Club  has  constructed  paths  (map  published 
at  Darmstadt,  1894  \  2  Jt)  and  erected  belvederes  at  various  points. 

a.  Western  Portion. 

One  Day  :  From  Bickenbach  to  the  Felsberg  2  hrs. ,  thence  to  Linden- 
felt  31/2  hrs.,  and  thence  in  1  hr.  to  FUrih,  where  the  railway  is  regained. 

Two  Days.  First  day.  as  above  to  Lindenfele.  Second  day:  by  the 
Tromm  to  Waldmi<AelbcK:h  3V2  hrs.,  thence  by  Ober-  and  Unter-SchUnmatten- 
wag  to  Hi¥schhorn  4  hrs.,  or  vi&  scMnau  to  Neekarsteinach  5  hrs. 

From  Jugenheim  (p.  255)  to  the  Felsberg  (II/2  hr.).  Beyond 
the  chateau  of  Heiligenberg  (see  p.  255)  we  ascend  to  the  right 
through  the  grounds,  and,  at  the  finger-post  indicating  the  way 
("  Wilhelminenweg^ )  to  the  Felsberg ^  turn  to  the  left  round  the  hill, 
whence  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  the  Melibocus  is  obtained.  We  next 
ascend  along  the  edge  of  the  wood  (view  of  the  Auerbacher  Schloss) 
to  the  Staff eler  Kreuz  (Ouralpe  Inn),  and  then  to  the  right  (somewhat 
steeper)  to  the  Felsberg  (1645  ft. ;  *H6tel  Felsberg^  R.  1 V2,  !>•  ^^k'% 
pens.  4  Jf;  restaurant  at  the  Foresters).  The  view  to  the  E.  embraces 
a  great  part  of  the  Odenwald ,  and  extends  to  the  Spessart  and 
Aschaffenburg.  A  rough  cart-track  (finger-posts  behind  the  hotel) 
leads  to  (5  min.)  the  Altarsteiny  a  cubical  block  of  syenite,  bearing 
traces  of  an  attempt  to  hew  it  into  lengths  for  a  huge  architrave. 
About  5  min.  lower  down,  in  a  small  gully,  is  the  Biesensdule,  a 
column  of  the  same  material,  30  ft.  in  length,  and  3r4i/2  fjt.  thick, 

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Odenwald.  NEUNKIRCHEN.  3U  Route.  269 

-with  a  notch  1^2  i^ch  deep  in  the  middle.  There  is  no  douht  that 
an  old  Roman  quarry  once  existed  here,  which  perhaps  also  furnish- 
ed the  columns  on  the  Schlosgbrunnen  at  Heidelberg  (p.  269).  The 
Felaenmeer  ('sea  of  rocks'),  on  the  side  of  the  road,  below  the 
Riesensaule,  consists  of  blocks  of  syenite  scattered  in  huge  and  con- 
fused masses,  covering  an  area  of  500  paces  by  200.  —  A  path, 
indicated  by  reddish-brown  marks,  descends  past  the  Felsenmeer 
to  Reichenbach  (p.  260)  in  less  than  3/4  lir- 

Fboh  thb  Mblibogus  to  thb  Felsbbbg  is  a  walk  of  nearly  11/2  l^r- 
The  path  (orange  marks)  ascends  on  the  E.  aide  of  the  hill  (to  the  right  the 
^Neunkrnmmweg',  see  below)  to  the  saddle  separating  the  Balkhanser-Thal 
from  the  Hochstatter-Thal,  and  then  follows  the  N.W.  flank  of  the  Felsberg. 

Ascent  of  the  Felsbbbg  fbom  Atjebbach  (p.  255),  2-2V2  hrs.  One 
path  (to  the  left  as  we  quit  the  village  \  red  and  white  marks)  leads  vi& 
HocIut&Uen^  another  (yellow  marks)  via  the  FilrttenUtger  (p.  266).  The 
return  should  be  made  by  the  picturesque  path  leading  towards  the  Meli- 
bocus  (p.  255  i  orange  marks).  This  passes  to  the  S.  of  Balkhauten,  follows 
the  height  above  the  Hochstatter-Thal  (the  ^Neun  Kriimm')  to  the  Noth- 
gottes-Sattel  (p.  255),  and  then  the  'Herrenweg^  (blue  and  white)  to  the 
(iVa  hr.)  Auerbacher  Schloss. 

Fbom  Felsbbbg  to  Lindbnfels  via  the  Nbxtneibcheb  HShb, 
31/2  l»rs.  This  is  the  route  usually  chosen  by  tourists.  We  take  the 
a1y)Ye-mentioned  cart-track  to  the  Altarateiny  but  diverge  to  the  left 
before  reaching  this  and  foUow  the  yellow  way-marks  to  Beeden- 
kirchen,  taking  care  to  go  straight  on  beyond  the  church,  and  not  to 
the  right  (to  Lautem).  Beyond  Beedenkirchen  guide-posts  indicate 
the  route  to  (2/4  hr.)  Brandau  (1040  ft.),  whence  a  public  vehicle 
plies  twice  daily  to  Ober-Ramstadt  (8  M. ;  see  p.  262).  From  Brandau 
to  Neunkirchen  we  may  either  take  the  direct  path  (white  way- 
marks)  in  IV2  l^r- ;  01  choose  the  longer  route  (1^4-2  hrs.)  via  Lutzel- 
bach  (*Meyer*8  Inn,  pens.  3-31/2  •^)»  iiear  which,  to  the  left  of  the 
road  to  Klein-Bieberau  (white  and  blue  way-marks)J  is  a  lofty  pre- 
cipice known  as  the  Wildfrauhatu.  —  At  Heunkirclien  (1680  ft.; 
Gtiiner  Baum^  very  fair ,  pens.  3  JT)  a  monument  commemorates 
flerr  Ohly,  the  founder  of  the  Odenwald  Club. 

A  path  indicated  by  white  marks  descends  from  Keunkirchea  and 
then  ascends  through  wood  to  the  (»/«  hr.)  *Weinweg'  (see  below),  whence 
t  again  descends  to  the  ('/z  hr.)  ruin  and  farm  of  Bodenstein  (p.  262). 

An  easy  path  (red  way-marks)  ascends  from  Neunkirchen  to  the 
(1/2  hr-)  top  of  the  Neunkirclier  Hohe  (1985  ft.),  the  highest  point 
in  the  Hessian  Odenwald,  with  a  view-tower  (75  ft. ;  20  pf.)  com- 
manding an  extensive  survey  as  far  as  the  Haardt,  Taunus,  Vogels- 
berg,  and  Spessart.  A  path  (green  marks),  rough  at  first,  descends 
henoe  to  the  S.  to  the  road  and  (1/2  ^^')  WinterkasUn  and  thence, 
passing  the  pavilion  on  the  Litzelroder  (p.  260),  to  (35  min.)  Linden- 
fel8  (p.  260). 

Amongst  the  other  paths  radiating  in  all  directions  from  the  Neun- 
kircher  Hdhe  one  (yellow  and  orange  marks)  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  (^/a  hr.) 
Oademheim  (p.  260)  j  and  another  (yellow)  to  the  N.E.  vid  FrHheit  (a 
Utile  beyond  which,  to  the  left,  above,  is  the  WildficHbehensteiri)  to  (1 1/2  br.) 
Rodenttein  (p.  262)  and  (3/4  hr.)  Nonrod.  From  the  latter  path,  about 
20  min.   from  the  Neunkircher  Hdhe,  the  Weinweg  (see  above 5  red  and 

17*     ^ 


260    Route  31,  LINDENFELS.  Odenwald. 

white  triangular  marks)  diverges  to  the  left  and  leads  through  wood  to 
the  (11/4  hr.)  saddle  above  KTonrod  (fine  view)  and  thence  to  (l^^  hr.  more) 
Grosi-Bieberau  (p.  262). 

High  Boad  fboh  Bbnsheim  to  Limdekpels,  11  M.,  diligence 
twice  daily  in  gummer  in  3  hrs.  (returning  in  2  hrs.).  The  road 
ascends  the  valley  of  the  hauler  to  (I8/4  M.  firom  Bensheim)  Sohdn- 
berg  (Sonne;  Traube)^  a  village  with  a  chateau  of  Count  Eibach- 
Schonherg.  Fine  view  from  the  garden  of  the  chateau  and  from  the 
village-church.  —  Thence  we  proceed  vll  WUmshausen  and  EtmB- 
hausen  to  (2V2  M.  farther)  Beichenbach  (625  ft. ;  Traxibe'),  a  village 
of  1300  inhab.,  with  a  war-monument  and  a  fountain  in  the  market- 
place formed  of  hewn  blocks  of  syenite  from  the  Felsberg  (p.  268). 
The  way  to  the  (1  hr.)  Felsberg,  past  the  monument,  to  the  right, 
is  indicated  by  a  guide-post. 

The  road  now  ascends  the  gradually  contracting  valley,  past  the 
ultramarine  works  of  Lautem^  to  (2^2  M.)  Oadernheim  (1140  ft. ; 
Rettich's  Inn)  and,  past  Schmidt's  Inn,  'to  (IV4  M.)  Kolmbach 
(1340  ft.),  and  finally  crosses  the  Kolmbacher  Hohe  (1476  ft. ; 
fine  view)  to  (3  M.)  Lindenfels. 

A  shorter  footpath  (IV4  hr. ;  orange  marks)  diverges  to  the  left  from  tbe 
Lindenfels  highroad  to  the  E.  of  Beichenbach,  and  joins  the  road  leading 
to  Oonnt  Erbacb's  farm  of  Sohensteimi  at  the  (Vs  H.)  Sohe  JStein^  a  quarts 
crag  projecting  from  the  woods  (beside  which  is  a  memorial  stone  to  Prince 
Alexander  of  Bulgaria)  we  diven;e  once  more  to  the  left,  and,  beyond 
lTnter-Ra(delbaeh,  regoin  the  highroad  at  a  point  between  Gademheim 
and  Kolmbach. 

Knoden,  where  the  key  of  the  view-tower  on  the  hill  (1750  ft.)  is  to 
be  obtained  at  Beinig's  Inn,  lies  >/«  ^t^*  to  the  S.  of  the  farm  of  Hohen- 
stein,  IVs  hr.  to  the  B.  of  SchSnberg  (vi&  Oronau  and  Schvannenbaeh),  and 
V4  hr.  to  the  S.W.  of  Gademheim.  To  the  S.  of  Enoden  is  the  wooded 
KrtKberg  (1966  ft.). 

Lindenfels.  —  Hotels.  ^Hbssibghbs  Haus,  with  shady  garden,  in  the 
town>,  *  Victoria,  in  the  Bensheimer-Str.,  with  garden-,  Odenwald,  Habfe, 
both  in  the  town,  these  three  also  good,  pens.  4472  Jt\  Tbadbb,  Daiui- 
STADTBB  HoF,  to  the  S.,  both  plain,  pens.  3i/t  M'^  Villa  Einsibdbl,  pens. 
i-bM\  Villa  Maria  (for  invalids  *,  Dr.  Schmidt),  pens.  3-10  UK;  Bb.  Wbiss- 
mahn's  Lodging  Hodsb,  opposite  the  Hessische  Haus,  with  pretty  view. 

Lindenfels  (1170  ft.),  a  favourite  summer-resort  (1500  inhab.), 
the  finest  point  in  the  Odenwald,  with  a  modern  Prot.  church  and 
an  older  Rom.  Cath.  church,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  an 
eminence.  It  is  surrounded  by  the  remains  of  old  fortifications 
and  is  commanded  by  a  large  ruined  Chdteau  (1310  ft.) ,  formerly 
the  property  of  the  Palatinate.  —  On  the  beautiful  wooded  hill  1  M. 
to  the  E.  is  the  Ludwigshohey  a  small  wooden  temple  commanding 
a  fine  view,  especially  picturesque  by  evening-light.  Towards  theE., 
the  prospect  is  more  extensive  from  a  point  1/4  hr.  higher  up.  — 
Attractive  views  are  also  obtained  from  the  Carolinen'Tempel,  1/2  hr. 
to  the  N.W.  of  Lindenfels,  in  the  'Buch',  above  the  road  to  Kolmbach 
and  Gademheim,  and  from  the  Litsxlrdder^  20  min.  to  the  N.,  on 
the  way  to  Winterkasten  (p.  269). 

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Odenwald,  FCRTH.  31,  Route.   261 

Fboh  Lindenfbls  to  Heppbnhkih,  about  13  M.,  pleasant  footpath  (red 
and  white  way-marks).  We  take  the  path  descending  to  the  left  at  the 
last  house  before  the  gate  of  the  ch&tean,  and  then  the  third  path  on  the 
right.  Beyond  EuUbach  we  climb  to  the  top  of  the  hill  on  the  other 
side  of  the  valley  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  wood  turn  to  the  left  to 
(V4  hr.)  £rlenbach  and  O/z  hr.)  liiUershaiuen  ^  a  little  beyond  which  we 
strike  the  highroad  from  Fiirth  to  Heppenheim.  Following  this  over  the 
saddle,  we  then  take  the  path  through  the  meadows  on  the  left  to  (V4  hr.) 
XirtchhausM  and  in  V^  hr*  more  reach  Heppenheim  (p.  257).  A  guide-post 
just  beyond  Eirsehhausen  indicates  the  route  to  the  right  to  the  Starken- 
burg  (p.  267). 

Fbom  Lindbnfbls  to  F6bth,  highroad,  see  below.  A  shorter  footpath 
(green  way-marks)  descends  to  the  S.  from  Lindenfels,  enters  the  (10  min.) 
wood  to  the  left,  (25  min.  farther)  crosses  a  fir-clad  eminence  (avoid  the 
path  to  the  left  here),  and  reaches  Fiirth  in  10  min.  more. 


Fbom  Wbinheim  to  FtJRTH,  10  M.,  branch -railway  in  about 
1  hour.  —  Weinheimy  see  p.  267.  The  train  passes  the  station  Zwm 
Birkeiumer  Thai  and  ascends  the  picturesque  valley,  which  is  watered 
by  the  Weschniiz.  —  2V2  M.  Birkenau^  a  village  with  1500  inhab,, 
possesses  a  Prot.  and  a  Bom.  Cath.  church,  and  a  chateau  and  park 
of  Baron  von  Wambolt.  —  372  M.  Reisaen,  —  5V2  M.  Morlenhach 
(Krone),  with  1000  inhabitants. 

Fbom  Moblbnbagh  to  Wahlbn,  10  M.,  railway  in  ca.  1  hr.  —  2  M.  Weiher ; 
5M.  ^eidach'^  6  M.  WaldmicJielbach  (see  below);  7  M.  Unter-Waldmichelbach\ 
V/t  M.  Aichbacht  9  M.  Amterbaeh.  —  10  M.  Wahlm. 

Waldmiohelbach  (1210  ft.;  Starkenbwffy  pens.  8-3V2  Jft  Odenwaldy  pens. 
S-iJOi  a  picturesquely  situated  little  town  (pop.  2000),  and  a  capital 
centre  for  excursions.  Fine  view  from  the  Bchimmelherg  (1640  ft.),  1  hr. 
to  the  N.W.  (path  indicated  by  yellow  circles),  near  Siallenkandel  on  the 
highroad,  3  M.  from  Zotzenbach  (see  below).  —  To  Hibsohhoen  (p.  274), 
121/*  M.,  a  diligence  plies  once  a  day  from  Waldmichelbach  viS  SehffnmaUefh 
teag  (Hirseh  Inn  at  Unter-Schonmattenwag),  Heddeabaeh^  and  Langenihal. 

Another  path,  marked  by  orange  triangles,  leads  from  Waldmichel- 
bach to  (1  hr.)  SiedeUbrvnn  (Morgenstera).  Thence  we  may  continue 
to  follow  the  same  path  vili  Ober'Abtteincuhy  Unter-Abtteinach,  the  Eichelberg 
(1730  ftO)  the  Bchrie$heimerhof^  and  the  ffocJittraue  to  (61/4  hrs.)  Heidel- 
berg. Or  we  may  take  the  path  indicated  by  blue  marks  to  G^V*  ^rs.) 
HHUgkrBut-SUinaeh  (Lowe,  pens.  3^  Ul),  whence  another  (red  circles)  leads 
to  (1  hr.)  SiMnau  (p.  274)  and  Neckarsteinach  (p.  273). 

7  M.  Zotzenbach,  1/2  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name.  —  8  M. 
Bimbach  (Dmtaeher  KaUer,  very  fair ,  R.  &  B.  1  Vj  Jf)  is  a  village 
with  1800  inhabitants.  —  9^2  M.  Fahrenbach-  Lortenbach.  — 
10  M.  Furth  (620  ft.;  AdUr,  very  fair,  R.  1-1 V2,  D.  IV2  -^T),  with 
1400  inhab.,  41/2  M.  by  road  from  Lindenfels  (p.  260)  via  Krum- 
bach  (two -horse  carriage  6  Jf),  and  about  3  M.  by  the  footpath 
(white  and  green  marks). 

Paths  ascend  firom  Bimbach  (white  triangular  way-marks)  and  from 
Furth  (green  way-marks)  to  the  S.E.  to  the  (IV2  hr.)  top  of  the  Tronun 
(1860  ft.),  which  commands  an  extensive  view  (belvedere  on  the  top  \  key 
at  the  Inn  tw  Bchdntn  AussicTU).  We  then  proceed  to  the  S.,  passing 
several  hovels,  and  at  the  point  where  the  path  enters  an  oak-plantation 
descend  to  the  right  to  Oadem.  Hence  the  route  leads  through  a  pleasant 
valley  to  Waldmichelba<^  (see  above). 


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262   Rouuai.  REIGHELSHEIAI.  Odenwdld. 

b.  EaBtem  Portion. 

From  Franktobt  to  Edbbbagh,  66  M.,  in  2Vr-3*/4  hrs.  (farea  8  UK  60, 
5  UK  80,  3  UK  80  pf.)-  —  From  Darmstadt  to  Wikbklsbach,  ITi/a  M.,  in  1  hr. 
(fares  2  UK  30,  1  UK  70,  1  UK  20  pf.) ;  at  Wiebelsbacli  the  two  lines  unite. 

Frankfort^  see  p.  221 ;  departure  from  the  E.  station.  —  3  M. 
Mainkur.  About  2  M.  to  the  N.,  on  the  bill,  is  Bergen  (Zur  Schfinen 
Aussicbt,  a  garden-restaurant),  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Frankforters. 
The  Bergener  Warie  is  a  good  point  of  view ;  to  the  right,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Main,  are  the  village  and  ch&teau  of  Rumpenheim. 

—  6M.  HochsUidt-Domigheim ;  9M.  WiUielmsbad,  another  favourite 
resort  of  the  Frankforters. 

10  M.  HanaUj  W.  station ;  11  M.  Hanau,  E.  station  (•Restau- 
rant), the  junction  for  the  express-trains  from  Frankfort  and  Stutt- 
gart to  Berlin.  Hanan  (Adler,  R.  2-4  Jf ;  Biese),  situated  near  the 
confluence  of  the  Kinzig  and  the  Main,  is  a  pleasant-looking  town 
with  30,000  inbab.  and  flourishing  manufactures  of  trinkets  and 
tobacco.  In  the  Neustadter  Marktplatz  is  a  monument  to  the  brothers 
Orimm^  who  were  born  here  (1785  and  1786).  On  the  Main  lies  the 
ch4teau  of  Philippsruhey  belonging  to  the  Landgrave  of  Hesse. 

TheOdenwald  railway  now  turns  to  theS.  and  crosses  the  Main. 

—  1 3  M.  KUin-Auheim;  14 M.  Hainstadt  — 17 M.  Seligenstadt^  a  small 
town  with  4000  inhab.,  owes  its  name  to  a  celebrated  Benedictine 
abbey  founded  about  828  by  Eginhard ,  the  biographer  of  Charle- 
magne. The  church  has  been  entirely  modernised  in  appearance,  and 
few  traces  of  the  original  building  have  been  left. 

23^2  ^*  Bahenhausen,  the  junction  of  the  Darmstadt  and 
Aschaffenburg  railway.  The  Protestant  church,  an  edifice  in  the 
Transition  style  with  a  late-Gothic  cboir  and  aisle,  contains  gome 
interesting  monuments  of  the  Counts  of  Hanau  and  a  late-Gothic 
carved  altar  of  1518.  —  26  M.  Langstadt;  28  M.  KUin-Umstadt  ; 
30  M.  OroaS'Umstadt;  33  M.  Wiebelsbach-Heubach  (p.  263> 

Darmstadt,  see  p.  251.  Beyond  (5  M.)  Rosenhohe  (p.  254)  the 
line  traverses  extensive  woods.  —  5^2  M.  Nieder^Ramstadt-Traisa, 
We  skirt  the  litUe  Modau.  —  7^2 M.  Ober-Ramstadt  (Wiener's  Inn, 
R.  IV4,  B.  1/2,  D.  1  -4^ ;  to  Brandau,  see  p.  259);  10  M.  Zeilhard,  — 
121/2  M.  Reinheim  (528  ft.;  Darmstadter  Hof),  an  old  town  with 
1900  inhab.,  on  the  Otrsprerhz,  is  the  junction  for  Offenbach  (p.  250; 
231/2  M.,  in  2-21/2  hrs.)  and  for  Reichelsheim. 

From  Rbinhbim  to  Rbichblsheim,  11  M.,  railway  in  sbont  1  hr.  (fares 
1  UK  10,  75  pf.).  The  line  follows  the  busy  Oertprmt-ThaU  —  1«A  M. 
Orott'Bieberau  (Post),  with  1600  inbab.,  whence  several  footpaths  lead  vi2 
the  Neunkircher  Hdhe  to  Lindenfels  in  3-4  hrs.  —  7  M.  yieder-KaiUibaOi 
is  the  station  for  F^Snkiach-Crutnbtieh  (Horr  sum  Rodenstein),  a  market- 
town  >/«  V-  to  the  8.W.,  with  a  chateau.  To  the  8.E.  of  Ifieder-Kains- 
bach,  overlooking  the  Kcdmbacher-Thal,  is  the  (IVs  M.)  ruined  cattle  of 
Schtiellerts  (p.  263).  —  11  M.  Reichelsheim  (766  ft.  *,  Snffely  very  fair;  Adler)y  a 
prettily-situated  village,  commanded  by  the  ruin  of  Reiehenberg  (1076  ft.). 
In  a  sequestered  hilly  and  wooded  region,  V4  hr.  to  the  N.W.  of  this  point, 
rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Rodenttein,  from  which,  according  to  the  popular 


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Odenwald.  MIOHELSTADT.  31,  Route.   263 

legend,  when  a  war  is  about  to  break  out,  the  Wild  Huntsman  and  his 
train  gaUop  with  fearful  din  to  the  castle  of  Schnellerts  (p.  262).  —  From 
Reichelsheim  to  Linden/eU  (p.  260),  5  M.  (dUigence  daily). 

151/2  M.  Lengfeld  (660  ft;  Krone).  At  the  top  of  the  Ottherg 
(1206  ft. ;  40  min.),  round  which  lies  the  little  town  of  Hering^ 
is  the  old  castle  of  that  name,  with  a  massive  tower  (extensive  view). 

171/2  M.  WieheUhach'Heubcuih^  where  the  line  unites  with  that 
from  Frankfort  (p.  262). 

3672  M.  (from  Frankfort)  Hdchst  (520  ft. ;  Post,  very  fair ;  Burg 
Brtubtrg\  a  town  with  1900  inhab.,  lies  in  the  valley  of  the  Mum- 
ling^  which  the  train  now  ascends  to  Erbach. 

About  2>/2  M.  lower  down  the  pleasant  Miimling-Thal  (diligence  twice 
a  day)  lies  NemUidt  (Zum  Ochsen,  D.  1,  pens.  3  Ul),  above  which  rises  the 
imposing,  partly  ruined  castle  of  Breuberg  (1000  ft.;  restaurant).  —  A 
marked  path  leads  from  Keustadt  to  (2V2  lirs-)  y^Orth. 

^S}iL,Mumling-Qrumbachi  4OV2M.  Konigf  42^/2  M.  Zell-Kirch- 
hrombach.  The  valley  contracts.  To  the  right,  farther  on,  Is  Schloaa 
FufstenaUy  partly  bnilt  before  1270,  with  fonr  towers  and  a  shady 
park,  which  has  been  the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Erbach-Furstenau 
since  the  14th  century.  To  the  W.,  at  the  beginning  of  the  village 
of  Steinhach,  are  the  remains  of  an  interesting  convent -church, 
founded  by  Eglnhard  (p.  264)  in  827.  The  nave,  the  apse,  the 
smaller  apse  of  the  N.  transept,  and  part  of  the  crypt  are  preserved. 
It  lies  about  3/4  M.  from  the  station  of  Mlchel^tadt. 

45  M.  Michelfltadt  (885  ft.;  *H6tel  Friedrieh,  R.  IVr^,  B.  3/^, 
pens,  from  ijf;  Alt-Deutscher  Hof;  Furstenautr  Hof),  a  town  with 
3200  inhab.,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  741,  Ues  in  one  of 
the  prettiest  parts  of  the  Miimling-Thal.  The  late- Gothic  Pcwish 
Church  contains  some  good  monuments  of  the  Counts  of  Erbach. 
The  Rathhaus  (1484)  and  some  other  buildings  are  interesting  ex- 
amples of  timber-architecture.  The  Market  Fountain  dates  from 
1541 .  A  few  relics  of  the  old  fortifications  still  exist.  Near  the 
town  and  the  station  is  Dr,  Scharfehberg's  HydropatbicEsiflblishment 
(R.  5-25,  pens.  30-60  uT  per  week). 

From  Michelstadt  a  road  ascends  to  the  E.,  passing  Dor f  Erbach  and 
(4Vs  M.)  Count  Erbach's  shooting-box  EuHbach^  with  its  fine  deer-park,  to 
(7i/«  M.)  Amorbach  (5A66  ft. ;  BadUeher  Ho/,  fair;  Pott),  a  town  with  2200  in- 
hab.,  the  junction  of  railways  to  Aschaffenburg  and  to  Walldum  and 
Inckaeh.  Amorbach  is  the  residence  of  Prince  Leiningen,  and  contains  a 
suppressed  Benedictine  abbey,  the  church  of  which  (now  Prot.)  has  two 
BomanesQue  towers  and  a  nave  rebuilt  in  the  18th  century.  In  the  convent 
building  is  a  fine  rococo  library  hall.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  several 
Roman  camps.  —  Prom  Amorbach  a  diligence  runs  daily  to  (13  M.)  Kail- 
bach  (p.  264),  via  Emstthal  (Prins  Ernst,  B.  from  2,  pens.  6  Jf),  iVa  M. 
from  which  is  Wald- Leiningen,  a  modern  ch&teau  in  the  English-Gothic 
style,  with  a  deer-park.  Pedestrians  should  select  the  red-marked  path  vii 
(IVi  hr.)  the  Wildenburg  (or  Wilden/elt).  one  of  the  most  important  ruins 
in  the  Odenwald,  about  I'A  hr.  from  Emstthal.  A  pleasant  walk  may  also  be 
taken'  from  Eailbach  or  Emstthal  via  Eduard$lhal,  Reitenbach,  MUlben, 
Katzenbach,  and  the  Kateenbuckel  (p.  274)  to  Eberbach  (p.  274). 

Fboh  Amobbacu  to  MiLTBMBBao,  5V«  M.,  railway  in  V2  ^^'  "  ^*l*  ^' 
WHlbach  (Bngel).  ^  j 

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264  Route  31.  .      ERBAOH. 

6Vf  M.  Kiltenbftrg  (Engelf  Riete)^  a  busy  little  town  with  3600  inhab., 
charmingly  aituated  on  the  Main^  with  extensire  quarries  of  red  sand- 
stone, which  were  known  to  the  Romans.  The  old  Chdteau  of  the  Electors 
of  Mayence,  built  in  the  15th  cent,  and  destroyed  by  Albert  of  Branden- 
burg in  1662,  has  been  recently  restored,  and  contains  a  fine  collection  of 
antiquities  and  objects  of  art  (visitors  admitted);  it  commands  an  ad- 
mirable view.  The  town  contains  several  curious  timber-dwellings  (e.g. 
the  *Biese'  Inn)  and  gate-towers.  —  Opposite  Miltenberg  lies  the  Franciscan 
monastery  of  EngeUherg^  another  good  point  of  view.  In  the  woods,  to 
the  W.  of  Miltenberg,  are  the  so-called  Heunm-Scivien  Ceolumns  of  the 
Huns'),  twelve  gigantic  columns  of  syenite,  the  remains  of  a  quarry  of 
the  Roman  period,  which  appears  to  have  been  suddenly  abandoned.  — 
From  Miltenberg  to  (22V2  M.)  AscJuiffenburg^  see  Baedeker^t  Southern  Oermanp. 

47  M.  Erbach  (815  ft ;  *Sehutzenhof,  R.  &  B.  2-2V2,  D.  2,  pens. 
4-5  Jfi  Odenwaldj  R.  &  B.  2%  pens.  3V2-^  -^j  ^ery  fair;  AdUr, 
unpretending),  a  town  with  2o00  inhab.,  sitaated  in  the  Miimling- 
Thal,  is  the  principal  place  in  the  dominions  of  Count  Erbach.  The 
8chlo88f  rebuilt  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  the  16th  cent,  on  the 
site  of  a  very  ancient  castle,  and  partly  restored  in  the  18th  cent. , 
contains  an  interesting  collection  of  armour,  old  fire-arms,  valuable 
stained  glass  of  the  13-17th  cent.,  Etruscan  vases,  and  other  anti- 
quities (not  always  open ;  catalogue  50  pf.).  In  the  court  is  a  statue 
of  Count  Franz  von  Erbach  (d.  1823),  the  founder  of  the  collections. 
In  the  chapel  is  a  stone  Sarcophagus  of  the  13th  or  14th  cent,  which 
once  held  the  remains  of  Eginhard  (p.  263)  and  his  wife  Emma, 
brought  from  the  church  of  Seligenstadt  in  1810  (fee  75  pf."). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Miimling  and  gradually  ascends  the 
E.  side  of  the  valley,  high  above  the  river.  Near  (51 V2  M.)  Hetz- 
bach'Beerfelden  it  traverses  the  Himbachel  Viaduct  j  825  ft.  long 
and  145  ft.  high.  The  line  penetrates  the  Krahberg  by  a  tunnel 
2  M.  long  and  follows  the  winding  course  of  the  liter,  56  M. 
SchoUenbach;  58  M.  Kailbach  (p.  263);  61 V2  M.  Qaimuhle  (to  the 
Katzenbuckel  IV4  hr.,  see  p.  274).  —  66  M.  Eberbae\  see  p.  274. 

32.  Heidelberg  and  the  Valley  of  the  Neckar. 

The  Railway  Station  (366  ft.;  Restaurant ^  D.  2  Jt)  ia  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  town.  The  quick  trains  alone  have  through-carriages.  The  Keckar- 
Thal  line  has  a  second  station  at  the  CarUihor;  see  p.  273. 

Hot^.  Near  the  Station:  ^HStbl  db  l'Eubopb  (PI.  a),  in  the  Leopold-Str., 
with  lift  and  garden,  B.  4-6,  B.  IVi,  D.  at  1  p.m.  4,  pens.  9Vs-l2  UK; 
*aBAND-HdTBL  (Pi.  g),  Bohrbacber-Str.  11,  also  with  garden,  B.  from  3  •#, 
B.  1  UK  20  pf.,  D.  SVzt  pens,  from  7^2  Jff  *=Schbibdbb  (PI.  b),  at  the  station, 
R.  21/2-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  31^,  pens,  from  7  Jf;  *Victobia  (PI.  Q,  in  the  Leopold- 
Str.,  with  veranda,  R.  from  3,  B.  IV4,  D.  3V«,  pens,  from  8  Jff  MftTBOPOLK, 
Anlage22,  B.  from  3,  B.  IV4,  D.  21/2-4,  pens,  from  8  UK.  new  5  *H6t.-Pbns. 
Lang  (PI.  1),  Rohrbacher-Str.  13,  near  the  station,  R.  2i/j-4,  B.  1,  D.  2i/i, 
pens.  6-8  Jf;  Dabmstadtbb  Hof  (PI.  i),  near  the  station,  very  fair,  B.  21/4-3, 
B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens,  from  61/2  UK.  —  Hbidelbbbgbr  Hof,  Wrede-Platz, 
with  restaurant;  Batbischbb  Hof  (PI.  h),  near  the  station;  Bbichspost, 
next  the  post-office,  B.  21/2-4,  B.  1,  D.  11/2-21/2  UK,  very  fair;  Hot.  Habbbb  A 
Pens.  Beau-S6jodr,  Anlage  32  A  39,  with  restaurant  and  American  bar, 
R.  &  B.  from  21/2,  pens,  from  6  UK. 

In  the  Town  (1  M.  from  the  station) :  *Psinz  Cabl  (PI.  c),  in  the  Kom- 
markt  (p.  268),   an  old-established  house,  with  lift,  B.  2-6  UK,  A.  60  pf.. 

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Hota$.  HEIDELBERG.  32.  BouU.  265 

B.  1  Ul^  20  pf.,  D.  31/2,  pens.  7-10  Jf;  Adlbb  (PI.  d),  also  in  the  Eornmarictf 
with  restaurant.  —  H6tkl  zum  Ritteb  (PI.  k ;  p.  267),  E.  2-3,  fi.  1,  D.  2V2  Jf, 
well  spoken  of;  Badisghbb  Hof,  Haupt-Str.  113,  B.  V/i-SJl,  B.  70  pf.  — 
SiLBEBNBB  HiBscH,  in  the  market-place,  good  wine  from  the  cask:  Pbinz 
Max,  Marstall-Str. ;  Hollamdisgbeb  Hor,  by  the  old  bridge,  R.  iy2-2V2, 
B.  V«  Jf^  both  plain.  —  Pebkeo  ,  Haupt-Str.  75,  hotel  garni,  R.  1V«-2V2  Jf. 

On  the  Bill ^  beside  the  Castle:  *ScHL088-HdTEL  (p.  271),  commanding  a 
fine  view,  first-class,  omn.  from  the  station  1  Jf  (closed  in  winter)  *,  Bbllbvub, 
belonging  to  the  same  company ,  R.  3-6  Ulf ,  B.  1  Ul^  80  pf. ,  D.  4 ,  omn. 
iVs  •^>  *SoHLOSSPABK  HoTBL  &  PBNSiosr,  Wolfsbruunenweg  12,  a  little 
higher  up,  R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  7-9  Jf.  —  *Kohlhop  (p.  272),  reached 
from  the  station  by  cab  in  IV4  hr.  (10  Jf). 

Peniioni.  *Pension  Anglaise  (Miss  Abrahams),  Anlage  49  (pens.  4-6  .40 ; 
*Pens.  Internationale  (Mrs.  Hoffman),  Anlage  10  (4-7  U^^  Schildeeker,  cor. 
of  the  Block -Sir.  and  Theater-Str.  (4-4i/s  Jl)\  Flora,  Anlage  24  (4-5  UV); 
iSMto,  Schlierbach  Road  91  (4V2-5Vs*^)i  KarUihor,  Haupt-Str.  248  (4-5  UT); 
QuMsana,  Blumen-Str.  7,  at  Keuenheim  (4-6  .40- 

^  Bestanrants.  *Perkeo,  D.  from  IV4  Jf  (rooms  to  let,  see  above); 
Stddiisehe  Saalbau,  in  a  new  building  on  the  Neckar;  Rodensteiner,  Sand- 
gasse;  Stadtgarten,  in  the  Anlage  (concerts  in  the  evening;  comp.  p.'^6B); 
Luxhof,  Haupt-Str.  24.  —  *Schermers'  Luncheon  Rooms,  Haupt-Str.  71.  — 
Open-air  Beitaurants.  Bremeneek,  in  the  new  Schloss-Str.,  beside  the  cable- 
railway;  ^Sehloss-Restaurant  (p.  271),  D.  %SJf,'  Bchiff,  beyond  the  new 
bridge;  WaWwrn,  above  the  old  bridge  (R.  IV2-2,  B.  V*  •*)• 

Oafei.  Cafi  Impirial,  Wrede-Platz;  HSberlein,  Leopold  -  Str. ,  both  in 
the  Anlage  (p.  266);  Cafi  Waehter,  in  the  Markt,  frequented  by  students. 

Cabs.  (All  with  two  horses.)  For  a  drive  within  the  town,  or  beyond 
the  bridges  to  Neuenheim:  1  pers.  60,  2  pers.  90,  3  pers.  1  Ul^  5,  4  pers. 
1  •#  20  pf. ;  between  10  p.m.  and  6  a.m.  (9-7  in  winter)  double  fares ;  each 
heavy  box  20  pf.  ~  By  Ume:  per  hour  2  Jf,2Jf  QO,  or  2  UT  60  pf. ;  each 
addit.  1/4  br.,  60  or  65  pf.  —  To  the  CastU  (direct)  1-4  pers.  2  Jf,  there 
and  back  4  Jf;  JSehloss-HdUl  8  UT  30  pf.,  there  and  back  4  Jf;  Castle  and 
Molkencur  6,  there  and  back  ^  Jf;  Castle,  Molkencur^  and  Wolfshrunnen 
7  or  S  Jf;  CasUe,  Molkeneur,  and  Eonigstuhl ,  12  or  14  UT;  Kohlhof, 
10  or  12  Jf. 

Blectric  Tramway  from  the  principal  station  by  the  Haupt-Strasse  and 
Kommarkt  (station  of  the  castle-railway)  to  the  Carlsthorstation  (p.  268); 
branch-lines  to  the  Bergheimer-Strasse  and  to  the  Cemetery  (p.  2i8). 

Cable  RaUway  from  the  Kommarkt  (p.  263)  to  the  Ctutle  in  8  min. 
(station  75  yds.  from  the  entrance)  and  to  the  Moikemmr  in  8  min.  more 
(fare  to  the  Schloss  Station  35,  to  the  Molkencur  70  pf.,   return-fares  V^i 

1  Jf),    Trains  run  every  V4-^/l  br.  Several  tunnels. 

Bteam  Tramway  to  Weinheim,  see  p.  257 ;  to  Mannheim  (14  M.,  in  about 

2  hrs. ;  fares  i^Jf  20,  80  pf.),  via  WiebUngen,  Edingen,  and  SeekenMm  (both 
starting  from ''the  Bismarck  -  Platz) ;  to  Wiesloeh  (starting  at  the  Central 
Railway  Station). 

Baths.  Warm  baths  at  Haller'^s,  Plock-Str. ;  river-baths  in  the  Neckar, 
between  the  bridges. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  9),  opposite  the  station. 

Reading  Room,  with  English  newspapers,  at  0.  Petter^s,  Leopold-Str.  5. 

English  Ohuroh,  Pldck-Strasse  46  (3(X)  seats);  services  at  8  a.m.,  11.30 
a.m.,  and  5.30  p.m.  Chaplain,  Rev.  Francis  Slater,  M.  A.,  Rohrbacher-Str.  24. 

Principal  Attractions  (}/t  day).  We  proceed  firom  the  rail,  station 
through  the  Leopold-Str.  to  St.  Peter's  and  by  the  Schloss-Str.  to  the  Castle 
(li/s  hr!).  Or  we  may  take  the  tramway  to  the  Kommarkt  and  the  cable- 
raUway  to  the  Castle.  An  inspection  of  the  Castle  takes  1  hr.  at  least.  We 
next  walk  (20  min.)  or  take  the  cable-railway  to  the  Molkencur.  We  then 
descend  via  the  Kommarkt  (V2  hr.)  and  the  Heilig-Geistkirche  to  the  Old 
Neekar  Bridge,  and  follow  the  right  bank  to  the  New  Bridge,  which  crosses 
to  the  station  (*U  hr.). 

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266   Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  ArOoffe. 

in^^^^^deVbera,  with  40,200  inhab.  (15,000  Rom.  Catb.),  is  situated 
on  the  NeckoTj  at  the  point  wheie  that  river  debouches  from  the 
Odenwald  in  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  Few  towns  can  vie  with  it  in 
the  beauty  of  its  environs  and  its  historical  interest.  Oonrad  of 
Hohenstaufen,  who  became  Count  Palatine  of  the  Rhine  in  1156, 
selected  the  old  castle  of  Heidelberg  as  his  principal  residence,  and 
under  him  and  his  successors  the  insignificant  little  place  soon 
became  a  town  of  considerable  importance.  It  continued  to  be  the 
capital  of  the  Palatinate  for  nearly  live  centuries,  until  the  Elector 
Charles  Philip  in  1721,  owing  to  ecclesiastical  differences  with  the 
Protestant  citizens,  transferred  his  seat  to  Mannheim.  Since  1802 
Heidelberg  has  belonged  to  the  grand-duchy  of  Baden. 

The  old  town  of  Heidelberg  is  squeezed  In  between  the  castle^ 
hill  and  the  Neckar,  and  consists  mainly  of  the  so-called  Haupt- 
Stras^e.  a  street  about  1^4  M.  long.  The  newer  residential  quarters 
are  built  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Geisberg  and  in  the  valley,  partly 
in  the  district  of  Bergheim,  which,  like  Neuenheim  (p.  272),  dates 
back  to  the  Roman  period.  In  this  quarter  are  the  Rdihnny  ^^^inn. 
and  the  Post  ^  Telegraph  Office  (PI,  9),  opposite  each  other.  On  the 
river  are  several  Medical  InttituUs  and  the  Botanical  Garden  of  the 
University,  and  lower  down  the  river  are  factories. 

From  the  Railway  Station  we  may  approach  the  Haupt-Straese 
via  the  Bismarck  Oarden  (with  a  marble  bust  of  the  Chancellor  by 
Donndorf),  which  extends  to  the  new  bridge  (p.  272) ;  or  we  may  turn 
to  the  right  and  follow  the  Lbopold-St&assb,  with  the  Anlagb,  or 
public  promenade,  which  runs  along  the  S.  side  of  the  old  town  all 
the  way  to  the  castle.  In  front  of  the  Victoria  Hotel  is  a  fountain 
with  a  bust  of  the  local  poet  K.  O.  Nadler  (d.  1849).  Near  the  centre 
of  the  Anlage,  and  near  the  Chemical  Laboratory  (PI.  1),  is  a  Statue 
of  the  Bavarian  Field  Marshal  Prince  Carl  von  Wrede  (PI.  2  j  1767- 
1838)  by  Brugger,  erected  in  1860  by  Lewis  I.,  King  of  Bavaria. 

Near  the  E.  end  of  the  Anlage ,  ou  the  left,  is  the  Protestant 
Church  of  St.  Peter  (PI.  3),  built  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent, 
and  restored  in  1873,  with  a  flue  open-work  Gothic  tower  and  several 
monuments.  —  Opposite,  on  the  other  side  of  the  railway,  is  the 
KlingentJior  (see  p.  272),  near  which  is  a  bust  of  Karl  Metz  (d.  1877), 
founder  of  the  German  volunteer  flre-brigade  system.  From  this 
point  the  street  known  as  the  ^Schloasherg^  ascends  to  the  entrance 
of  the  Sohloss-Garten  at  the  Elisabeth-Pforte  (see  pp.  268,  269). 

Turning  to  the  left  at  the  choir  of  St.  Peter's  Church,  we  reach 
the  Ludwigs-Platz,  with  the  Vniveraity  Buildinafi  (PI.  4),  erected 
in  1711-15.  An  Equestrian  Statue  of  Emperor  WiUiam^.,  by 
Donndorf,  was  unveiled  here  in  IWl. 

The  ypiygraity  (in  winter  about  1200,  in  summer  1600  stud.), 
the  famous  Ruperto-Carola,  the  cradle  of  science  in  S.  Germany, 
and  after  the  universities  of  Prague  and  Vienna  the  oldest  in  Ger- 

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University,  HEIDELBERG.  32.  Route,   267 

many,  was  founded  in  1386  by  Elector  Rupert  I.  Its  period  of 
greatest  prosperity  was  in  the  latter  half  of  the  16th,  and  the  be- 
ginning  of  the  17th  cent.,  when,  under  Electors  Otho  Henry,.  Fred- 
erick in.,  and  Frederick  IV.,  it  was  the  centre  of  'Humanism', 
and  the  chief  Reformed  seat  of  learning  in  Germany.  During  the 
stormy  times  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War  and  the  devastation  of  the 
Rhenish  Palatinate  by  the  French  It  survived  with  difficulty.  It 
is  indebted  for  its  modern  development  to  Charles  Frederick  of 
Baden,  who  in  1804  provided  it  with  eminent  professors  and  scien- 
tific collections.  The  aula  was  restored  in  1886,  the  five-hundredth 
anniversary  of  the  foundation  of  the  university  (apply  to  the  janitor). 
The  Library,  in  a  separate  building  (Angastinergasse  15),  contains 
400,000  vols.,  3000  MSS.,  and  1500  ancient  documents.  It  is  open  10-12 
on  Mon. ,  Tues. ,  Thurs.,  &  Frld. ,  and  2-4  on  Wed.  &  Sat.  (from  May  to 
August,  3-5).  Scarcely  one-third  of  the  MSS.  in  the  famous  Bibliotheca 
Palatina,  which  was  transferred  to  Rome  as  a  present  from  the  Elector  Maxi- 
milian of  Bavaria  after  the  capture  of  Heidelberg  by  Tilly,  have  been  re- 
turned. (Thirty-eight  were  restored  in  1814,  and  eight  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  in  1816,  including  some  original  MSS.  of  Luther.)  A  number  of 
MSS.  (many  wiih  miniatures,  including  the  'Manesse^  Minnesanger  MS.  of 
the  early  14th  cent.)t  autographs,  documents,  incunabula,  and  portraits, 
are  exhibited  on  the  groundfloor,  to  the  left ;  adm.  gratis  on  Wed.,  2-4 
(summer,  3-5),  on  other  week-days  for  60  pf.  00  pf.  for  each  member  of 
a  party);  application  is  made  in  the  lending-room  on  the  first  floor. 

The  Mu»eum  (PI.  5) ,  also  in  the  Ludwigs-Platz ,  occupies  the 
old  Stddtische  Saalbau  (comp.  p.  265),  which  is  about  to  give  place 
to  new  university  buildings.  The  third  floor  contains  the  Exhibition 
of  the  Art  Union  (adm.  on  Sun.  &  Wed.  11-1,  20  pf.). 

The  Jemiten-Kirc^e  (PI.  7),  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the 
18th  cent.,  was  decorated  with  polychrome  ornamentation  in  1873. 

In  the  Mabket  Placb  (380  ft.)  rises  the  Gothic  Heilig-Geiftt- 
^izfih^  (Pl.  8j  sacristan,  .ipothekergasse  16),  erected  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  15th  cent,  under  Count  Palatine  Rupert  III.  In  1705  the 
nave  was  separated  from  the  choir  by  a  wall,  in  order  that  the  Roman 
Catholics  might  worship  in  the  latter  (now  used  by  the  *01d  Catho- 
lics'), while  the  Protestants  retained  the  nave.  The  choir  contains 
the  tomb  of  King  Rupert  (see  p.  268)  and  his  wife  Elizabeth,  sister 
of  the  first  Elector  of  Brandenburg.  —  Opposite  the  church,  to 
the  S.,  is  the  Hdtel  turn  Bitter  (PI.  k),  erected  in  1592  in  the  style 
of  the  Otto  Heinriehs-Bau  (p.  269),  almost  the  only  house  which 
escaped  destruction  in  1693.  —  Opposite  the  choir,  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  market-place,  is  the  Rathhaf^  (1703),  containing  a  new  hall 
adorned  with  paintings  by  Lindenschmit  (1886).  —  A  few  paces  to 
the  N.,  via  the  Steingasse,  is  the  old  Neckar  Bridge  (p.  272). 

^The  Jast  of  the  side-streets  to  the  right  of  the  Market  Place  is 
the  Oberbadgasse,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  begins  the  Sqbloss- 
Stbasbb  (p.  268),  leading  to  the  castle.  —  The  station  of  the  Cablb 
RAiLgAY  TO  THB  Castlb  (p.  265)  IS  in  the  neighbouring  Kornmarkj^ 
beside  the  *Prinz  Carl^otel.  —  Pbi>bstbian8  cross  the  Kornmarkt " 
diagonally  to  the  right,  and  ascend  the  Bubqwbg,  which  leads  in 


268   Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  Ca$iU. 

12  min.  (long  vaulted  gateway  near  the  top)  to  the  great  halcony 
(^p.  270).  A  footpath  dlver^:e8  to  the  left  from  the  Bnrgweg,  leading 
along  the  Friesenberg.  —  A  fourth  route  to  the  castle  is  to  take 
the  tramway  to  the  E.  end  of  the  town  near  the  Carls-Tkor  (built  in 
1776-81),  and  thence  ascend  the  Friesenberg  (to  the  right)  on  foot, 
proceeding  at  the  top  either  to  the  left  by  the  Earmeliter-WSldchen, 
or  to  the  right  along  the  castle-hill. 

The  ^Castie  (640  ft.),  situated  on  the  * Jettenbfthl',  a  wooded 
spur  of  the  Konigstuhl,  may  possibly  have  been  founded  by  Conrctd 
of  Hohenataufen  (d.  1195;  see  p.  266),, while  its  history  canine 
traced  with  certainty  to  the  time  of  Count  PaUxtine  Rudolph  I. 
(1294-1319).  A  more  imposing  building  was  erected  by  Rupert  III. 
(1398-1410),  who  was  elected  Roman  king  at  Rhens  in  1400.  The 
castle  was  then  enlarged  and  strongly  fortified  by  the  electors  Fred- 
erick I.  *the  Victorious*  (1449-76),  and  Lewis  V.  (1508-44).  The 
palatial  parts  of  the  edifice  were  afterwards  erected  by  the  electors 
of  the  16th  and  17th  cent.,  particularly  Otho  Henry  (1556-59), 
Frederick  IV.  (1583-1610),  and  Frederick  V.  (1610-21),  King  of 
Bohemia  (husband  of  Elizabeth  t,  daughter  of  James  I.  of  England). 
In  1622,  when  Heidelberg  was  taken  by  Tilly  during  the  Thirty 
Years'  War,  the  castle  escaped  almost  uninjured.  It  was  aftewards 
restored  by  Charles  Lewis  (1632-80).  After  the  death  of  Charles,  the 
last  Protestant  Elector  (in  1685),  Louis  XIV.  preferred  a  claim  to 
the  Palatinate,  and  began  the  cruel  and  destructive  war  which  in- 
volved the  Castle  of  Heidelberg  and  so  many  others  in  one  common 
ruin.  On  24th  Oct.,  1688,  the  town  and  cast^  capitulated  to  Count 
Milac,  the  French  general,  who  spent  the  following  winter  here. 
On  the  approach  of  the  German  armies,  however,  he  determined  to 
evacuate  the  place,  and  on  2nd  March,  f689,  he  caused  the^whole 
of  the  fortifications  to  be  blown  up,  the  palace  to  be  burned  dowri; 
and  part  of  the  town  to  be  set  on  fire.  Those  parts  of  the  castle  and 
town  which  escaped  the  French  on  this  occasion  were  destroyed  by 
them  four  years  afterwards.  The  Electors  Charles  Philip  (1716-42), 
and  Charles  Theodore  (1742-99)  made  some  attempts  to  render  the 
castle  once  more  habitable ;  but  in  1764  it  was  struck  by  lightning 
and  finally  reduced  to  the  ruinous  condition  in  which  we  see  it  at 
present.  Farther  decay  is  prevented  by  careful  preservation  and 
(where  necessary)  restoration,  and  visitors  may  help  this  good  cause 
by  Joining  the  Heidelberger  Schlossverein  (annual  subscription  3  .if). 

From  the  terminus  of  the  funicular  railway  (p.  265),  at  the  top 
of  the  Schloss-Strasse  (p.  267),  we  pass  through  the  W.  entrance  of 
the  Castle  (comprthe  Plan;  guide  superfluous)  into  the  goHLOss- 
Gabtbn,  laid  out  in  1808  on  the  ruins  of  the  fortifications.  The 
pathslo  the  left,  of  which  the  second  passes  through  the  Elisabeth- 

f  Her  daughter  Sophia  was  married  at  Heidelberg  in  1668  to  Ernest 
Augustus,  afterwards  Elector  of  Hanover,  and  became  the  mother  of 
George  I.  of  England.  C^r^r^n\o^ 

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Castle,  HEIDELBERG.  32.  Route.  269 

Pforte,  erected  by  Frederick  V.  in  1616  in^  honour  of  his  consort 
(p.  268),  lead  to  the  5tucfcparten,  an  old  bastion,  which,  together  with 
the  corner-tower,  the  so-called  Vieke  Thurm,  defended  the  castle 
on  the  W.  side.  A  tablet  here  commemorates  the  yislts  of  Goethe 
and  Marianne  Willemer  (*Suleika')  in  1814  and  1815.  Between  the 
Dicke  Thunn  and  the  Friedrichsbau  (p.  270)  is  the  plain  EnglUche 
BaUy  or  EUsabethbau,  which  was  also  erected  by  Frederick  Y. 

We  now  cross  the  Bridge  over  the  S.  moat  of  the  Castle,  pass 
under  the  Great  Watch  Tower,  and  enter  the  ^Schloashof,  or  castle- 
yard,  the  focus  of  the  whole  structure.  Almost  all  the  architectural 
ornamentation  of  the  castle  was  lavished  on  the  inner  facades  abut- 
ting on  the  court,  as  the  external  walls  served  chiefly  for  purposes 
of  defence.  The  Irregular  grouping  of  the  buildings  reveals  at  once 
the  lack  of  any  systematic  plan  in  their  construction.  This,  howeyer, 
is  directly  responsible  for  the  picturesqueness  of  the  general  effect, 
which  is  farther  enhanced  by  the  clinging  ivy  and  the  verdant  trees. 
The  two  most  interesting  buildings  are  the  Otto-Heinrichs-Bau,  on 
the  £.,  and  the  Friedrlchs-Bau,  on  the  N.,  both  constructed  of  red 
Neckar  sandstone,  with  sculptures  and  details  in  yellowish  sand- 
stone from  Heilbrpnn. 

The  * Otto-Heinriehs-Bau,  erected  in  1556,  the  finest  example 
of  the  German  early-Renaissance  style,  rises  in  three  stories,  partly 
of  the  Ionic  and  partly  of  the  Corinthian  order,  with  a  strong  em- 
phasis on  the  horizontal  lines.  The  lower  story,  with  the  Kaisersaal 
to  the  left  and  the  Elector's  Rooms  to  the  right,  is  of  considerable 
elevation.  It  is  at  present  fitted  up  for  the  exhibition  mentioned  at 
p.  271 .  The  two  upper  stories,  the  first  containing  the  large  dlning- 
hall,  are  each  not  more  than  half  as  high.  The  top  ends  in  two  small 
gables.  The  whole  facade  is  richly  adorned  with  beautiful  sculptures, 
all  recently  restored.  The  cornice  of  the  *Portal,  to  which  a  double 
flight  of  steps  ascends,  is  supported  by  Caryatides.  Above  it  is  the 
bust  of  the  founder,  the  Elector  Otho  Henry,  with  armorial  bearings 
f^nd  inBcription.  In  the  niches  of  the  facade  are  a  number  of  statues, 
all  having  a  symbolical  meaning  after  the  fashion  of  the  Renaissance. 
In  the  four  lower  niches  are  Joshua,  Samson,  Hercules,  and  David, 
the  representatives  of  force  and  courage,  the  foundations  on  which 
a  princely  house^rests;  in  the  middle  niches,  allegorical  figures 
of  Stjfiugth," Justice,  Faith,  Charity,  and  Hope,  the  virtues  which 
adorn  a  princely- IftBfti)^  in  the  upper  niches,  Saturn,  Mars,  Yenus, 
Mercury,  Diana,  Apollo,  and  Jupiter;  or  the  -seven  gods  of  the 
planets,  symbolising  the  higher  powers,  who  rule  the  destinies  of 
all.  In  the  window-arches  are  medallion-heads  of  eminent  men 
of  antiquity.  'The  plastic  ornamentation  of  thi%  beautiful  building 
was  executed  first  under  the  superintendence  of  Matter  Ar^toni,  of 
whom  we  know  nothing  further,  and  afterwards  (from  1558  on)  by 
Alexander  Colin  of  Maline/s  (b.  1626),  who,  however,  went  to  Inns- 
bruck in  1662  to  work  on  the  Monument  of  Emp.  Maximilian. 


270    Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  Castle. 

The  ^Friedricha-Bau,  erected  in  1601-7  from  Joh,  Schoch's 
designs  and  restored  in  1898,  is  an  imposing  building  in  the  late- 
Renaissance  style,  and  consists  of  four  stories  (Doric,  Tuscan,  Ionic, 
and  Corinthian).  In  ornamentation  it  is  inferior  to  the  Otto- 
Heinrichs-Bau,  which  it  perhaps  surpasses  in  structural  grandeur. 
In  the  niches  are  16  statues  of  Charlemagne,  Otho  of  Wittelsbach, 
and  the  Counts  Palatine  down  to  Frederick  lY.  These  are  replicas 
of  the  admirable  originals  executed  by  Sebastian  Oots  of  Coir6.  — 
Between  thg^  Otto- E^lnrichs- Ban  and  the  Friedrichs-Bau  is  the 
Olaseme  Saalbau  or  Neue  Hof,  erected  in  1549,  and  showing  a 
quaint  mixture  of  Gothic  and  Renaissance  forms. 

A  vaulted  passage  (at  PI.  E)  leads  under  the  FriedriohS'*Bau  to  <^e 
*  Balcony,  constructed  in  1610,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view 
(the  bacK  of  the  Friedrichs-Bau  is  here  seen  to  advantage).  The  foot- 
path {Burgweg ;  p.  267)  to  the  town  begins  at  the  base  of  this 
platform. 

Adjoining  the  Friedrichs-Bau  on  the  left  is  tiie  so-called  Band- 
haus  or  Konigs^Saaly  erected  by  Lewis  V.  for  the  ladies  of  the  court, 
but  afterwards  altered.  Farther  back  is  the  Lihtar^  or  Archives, 
usually  called  the  Alte  Bau,  and  farther  on  the  Bupreehts-Bau^  a 
simple  Gothic  structure  erected  by  Rupert  IIL,  the  upper  part  re- 
built by  Lewis  V.  The  imperial  eagle  wilH'  the  arms  of  Che  Palati- 
nate recall  the  election  of  Rupert  to  the  sceptre  of  the  Roman 
kingdom.  Over  the  entrance  is  a  garland  of  five  roses  borne  by  two 
angels ;  the  half-open  pair  of  compasses  is  a  ^gn  that  the  building 
is  commended  to  the  care  of  the  Holy  Virgin. 

Opposite  is  a  covered  Well,  with  four  columns  of  syenite  (from 
the  Felsberg,  p.  258),  which  once  adorned  the  palace  of  Charlemagne 
at  Ingelheim,  and  were  brought  here  by  Count  Palatine  Lewis  V 

Adjacent  is  the  office  in  which  tickets  are  issued  for  admission  to  the 
Interior  and  the  Collection  of  Antiquities :  charge,  1  pers.  1,  2  pers.  i^hJt^ 
3  or  more  pers.  50  c.  each  \  for  the  ^Great  Tun^  alone,  90,  30,  and  10  pf . ; 
for  the  Collection  of  Antiquities  40  pf.  each  (extra). 

Visitors  are  first  conducted  to  the  groundfloor  of  the  RppKKcyre-BAU 
(see  above),  where  the  original  aculpturey  of  the  Otfo-Heinricns-Bau  and  We 
•Friedrichs-Bau  are  preserved. ;  on  the  lirst  floor  is  a  fine  Renaissance  chim- 
ney-piece. —  Thence  &ey  are  led  through  the  lower  rooms  of  the  Libeaby 
and  the  dungeon  to  the  casemates  of  the  EyftT^iBfiim  Bah  (p.  269)  and  to 
the  picKB  Thdbm  (p.  269);  the  last  should  be  as^fthdecF for  the  sake  of 
the  view.    They  then  return  to  the  court  by  the  y^fftP""*  \^-  (see  above). 

To  the  left  of  the  Friedriohs-Ban  is  the  entrance  to  the  CMLLAi^iPi.K; 
adm.,  see  above),  containing  the  famous  Beide1h9r<^  Tun .  a  monster  cask 
capable  of  holding  49,000  gajlojis.  The  present  tun  was  constructed  in  1751 
by  the  Elector  Charges  'i^fteoaore,  as  the  successor  to  three  others,  the  first  of 
which  was  erected  in  1591  by  the  Gouat  Palatine  Casimir,  the  second  by 
the  Elector  Charles  Lewis  in  1662,  and  the  third  by  Charles  PhiUp  in  1728. 
By  the  tun  stands  a  grotesQu*^  woode"  ^p"^fi  flf  Pfrkeo.  court-jester  of 
Elector  Charles  Philip!!    Another  large  tun  bears  humorous  inscriptions. 

We  next  cross  the  court  to  the  Otto-Hbinbiobs-Bau  (p.  269 ;  Eai«ersaal), 
and  then  pass  to  the  left  into  the  Glasbbne  Saalbad  (see  above).  Finally, 
crossing  the  court  once  more,  we  visit  the  Gbspbengtb  Thubu  (p.  271 ;  fine 
view  from  the  platform),  and  the  Apothbkbb-Thubm.  We  return  through 
the  Ludwigs-Bau. 


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Castle.  HEIDELBERG.  32.  Route.   271 

The  interesting  Oollection  of  Art  and  Antiquitiei  (adm. ,  see  p.  270^ 
catalogue,  80  pf.),  arranged  in  the  lower  story  of  the  Otto-Heinrichs-Bau, 
was  founded  by  Count  CJtarlei  de  Oraimherg  (d.  1864)  and  acquired  by  the 
town  of  Heidelberg  in  1879.  —  Boom  I.  Views  of  Heidelberg  by  8eh. 
Mitntter  (1527),  M.  Marian  (1620),  Rottmann  (1798-1850),  and  Verhas  (1843). 
Views  of  the  castle  by  Ulrich  Kratu  (1683).  Portraits  of  electors,  Heidel- 
berg professors,  and  other  worthies.  Reminiiscences  of  Sand  and  Kotzebue ; 
death-mask  of  Victor  Scheffel.  Frankenthal  porcelain  (p.  281).  —  Boon  II. 
Portraits  of  princes.  Renaissance  chimney-piece.  Frankenthal  porcelain. 
—  Boom  in.  1st  Sec. :  Portraits  of  electors,  seals,  weapons,  early  prints 
(Heidelberg,  1486).  2nd  Sec. :  Miniatures,  model  of  the  Castle  (1851),  portraits 
of  Perkeo  (p.  270).  3rd  Sec. :  Portraits.  Documents,  incl.  a  charter  of  896 
(No.  1090).    Letters  of  Melanchthon  (1634).  Tilly,  etc.  Luther's  betrothal-ring. 

The  Schlossiirehe ,  below  the  Friedriehs-Bau ,  contains  a  collection  of   w 
stone  monuments  from  Heidelberg  and  the  neighbourhood  (closed  at  present).  «/ 

We  leave  the  court  by  the  Great  Watch  Tower,  cross  the  moat 
(p.  269),  and  turn  to  the  left  in  the  garden.  The  ^Gesvrenate  Thurm* 
(blown-up  tower),  or  Pulver  Thurm^  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  castle, 
in  the  fosse  to  the  left  of  the  exit  from  the  court,  is  of  masonry  so 
solid,  that,  when  the  French  blew  it  up  in  1693,*  one-half  became 
detached  and  fell  in  an  unbroken  mass  into  the  moat,  whepe  it  still 
remains.  The  tower  is  93  ft.  in  diameter,  the  walls  21  ft.  thick; 
beneath  it  are  long  casemated  passages.  It  was  near  this  spot  that 
Matthison  composed  his  fine  'Elegie  in  den  Ruinen  eines  alten 
Bergschlosses',  an  imitation  of  Gray's  famous  ^Elegy  in  a  Country 
Churchyard'.  —  A  few  paces  farther  on  is  the  Schloss-Restaurant 
(p.  265),  where  a  band  plays  in  the  afternoon. 

The  *Great  Terrace  to  theN.E.,  constructed  in  1613,  commands 
beautiful  views  of  the  castle  itself  and  of  the  town.  A  *Statue  of 
Victor  von  Scheffel  yr&s  erected  here  in  1891.  —  The  plantation  of 
conifers  on  the  !Frie8enberg  (p.  268),  below  the  terrace,  contains 
many  rare  trees. 

Behind  the  terrace  is  the  SeJaoss-ffdtel  (p.  265 ;  735  ft.),  and  a  little 
high«{  up  is  the  HStel  Bellevue  (p.  265);  fine  view  from  the  terrace. 

About  IVs  M.  farther  to  the  E.  is  the  Wolfsbmnnen  (590  ft. ;  Rettau- 
rarU)^  once  a  favourite  resort  of  Frederick  v.  ana  nis  wife  Elizabeth,  and 
celebrated  in  a  sonnet  of  Martin  Opitz,  who  was  a  student  at  Heidelberg 
in  1619.  According  to  tradition,  the  enchantress  Jetta  was  here  killed 
by  a  wolf,  whence  the  name.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  reservoir  supplying 
the  water  for  the  town-aquednctt  We  may  then  proceed,  enjoying  a 
series  of  pleasant  views,  to  fli/z  M.)  Sehlierbaeh  (p.  273),  and  cross  the 
Neckar  to  [ZUffelhaiuen  (p.  273),  where  boats  are  always  ready  to  take 
walkers  back  to  Heidelberg  by  the  river. 

The  Rovra_TO  thb  Molkbnqpb  (20  min.;  finger-posts;  railway 
in  3  min^^  see  p.  265)  ascends  the  steps  opposite  the  Gesprengte 
Thurm,  passes  through  a  small  gate,  and  reaches  the  road  which 
passes  at  the  back  of  the  castle  (finger-post).  We  may  now  either 
ascend  by  the  road  or  by  the  zigzag  footpath.  If  we  follow  the  lajter,^ 
we  may  after  a  few  minutes  either  diverge  by  the  *Friesenweg*  to 
the  right,  or  continue  to  follow  the  zigzag  path.  (Several  finger-posts.) 

The  *Molkencnr  (995  ft.  above  the  sea-level ;  345  ft.  above  the 
castle)  is  a  restaurant  which  commands  an  admirable  view,  and 
la. the  only  point  from  which  the  castle  is  seen  from  above. 


272  Route  32,  HEIDELBERG.  HeUigenberg, 

*  A  road  leads  from  behind  ihe  Molkencnr  to  the  8.,  and  after  a  few 
yards  reaches  a  point  where  four  roads  meet  (finger-post).  That  on  the 
left  descends  to  the  Schloss;  the  next  ascends  to  the  Wolfisbrannen 
p.  271)  and  (20  min.)  the  *Bimarek-ffdke  (1445  ft.;  riew-tower) •,  the  one 
straight  on  ascends  to  the  Konigstahl  (fee  below),  while  that  to  the  right 
descends  to  Heidelberg,  which  it  reaches  at  the  EMngMthor  (p.  266).  From 
the  last,  after  >/<  H.,  a  road  ('Speyerershof-Weg')  diverges  to  the  left  and 
ascends  in  6  min.  to  a  Bench^  commanding  an  excellent  view  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  town  and  of  the  Schloss.  A  few  paces  farther  on  is  the  Sai&Bel 
Cpulpit"),  a  small  projecting  platfonn,  with  a  parapet,  affording  a  survey 
of  Heidelberg  and  the  plain.  The  Kosdal  (800  ft.),  reached  hence  in  5  min., 
an  open  space  in  front  of  a  covered  seat,  is  also  a  charming  point  of  view. 
From  l^e  Bondel  a  broad  path  (indicated  by  a  guide-post  ^nach  dem  Bahn- 
hof)  leads  by  the  ^Sieben-Linden'  and  the  Wolfshdhle  to  Heidelberg, 
emerging  at  the  Victoria  Hotel  (p.  264;  PL  C,  6).  —  Immediately  bevond 
the  Bondel  is  a  footpath  ascending  to  the  top  of  the  (20  min.)  *aei8berg 
(1290  ft.),  the  tower  on  which  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  near 
Heidelberg.  --A))Out  1  M.  from  the  Geisberg  is  the  Bpeytrm'iho/  (966  ft. ; 
IfRTf'pens.  5^^,  a  favourite  point  for  a  walk.  Thence  to  the  Heidelberg 
station  about  I'A  M. 

The  g5nigitnhl  (1865  ft.)  is  reached  from  the  Molkencur  by  a  shady 
path  f*Plattle^egVin  */i  br.,  or  by  the  carriage-road  in  1  hr.  Thejfcawer 
on  the  top,  aa  ft.  in  height,  commands  a  most  extensive  view  of  the  Bhine, 
Neckar.  Odenwald,  Haardt  Mts.,  Taunus,  and  the  Black  Forest  as  far  as  the 
Mercunusberg  at  Baden.  —  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Kdnigstuhl, 
beyond  the  new  University  Observatory,  is  the  KohUutf  (1580 ft. j  ^SoUl, 
with  100  beds,  baths,  electric  light,  etc.,  B.  2-6,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  5-12  UlO> 
a  health-resort  with  pleasant  shady  promenades.  The  tower  at  ihe  PouelU- 
lutt  (1580  ft.),  7  min.  to  the  8.W.,  commands  a  good  view. 

The  Old  Bridge  over  the  Neckar,  constructed  by  Elector  Charles 
Theodore  in  17bbQi8,  is  embellished  with  statues  of  the  Elector  and 
of  Minerva.  About  1300  yds.  lower  down  is  the  handsmne  TSfiW 
Bridge,  erected  in  1877.  Both  bridges  command  beautiful  views. 
The  village  of  Neuenheim  (Schiff,  with  garden),  an  the  right  bank, 
with  many  new  villas,  now  forms  part  of  Heidelberg.  —  Steam 
Tramway  to  Weinheimy  via  Handschuchshelm,  see  p.  257. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Neckar  is  the  Philoiophenw^ ,  a 
heautiful  walk  extending  2^.  along  the  slope  of  the  Meiligerierg  ^ 
chiefly  through  vineyards ,  and  commanding  splendid  views  of  the 
town,  castle,  valley,  plain  of  the  Rhine  with  the  cathedral  of  Speyer, 
and  the  picturesque  outlines  of  the  S.  Haardt  Mts.  A  very  pleasant 
walk  of  about  1  hr.  may  be  taken  by  ascending  the  first  road  to  the 
right  beyond  Neuenheim,  near  the  new  bridge,  traversing  the  Phi- 
losophenweg ,  and  then  descending  through  the  small  lateral  valley 
of  the  Hirschgassej  past  the  well-^own  students'  tavern  and  duel- 
ling-place of  that  name,  to  the  Neckar. 

Those  who  have  time  should  not  fail  to  ascend  from  the  Philo- 
sophenweg  (beyond  the  quarry  to  the  left)  to  the  (8/4  hr.)  ♦HeUigen- 
berg, the  ancient  Mom  Piri^  an  early-Qerman  sacrificial 'Stanon, 
afterwards  consecrated  toUercury.  On  the  S.  summit  (j^50j%.)  Is  a 
view-tower,  commanding  an  admirable  survey  of  HeK[elberg,  the 
Castle,  the  valley  of  the  Neckar,  and  the  Bergstrasse.  Adjacent  is 
the HeiderUoeL  an  old  cistern.  On  the N^_summit(i455^))  lOmln. 
farther  on,  are  the  foundations  of  the  Boinanesque  Abbey  Church 


Neekar  Valley,  NECKAKSTEINACH.        32.  BouU,  273 

of8u_Michad,  established  about  880  and  discovered  in  1886.  Both 
summits  are  surionnded  with  double  ring-walls  of  the  prehistoric 
era.    We  return  to.  Heidelberg  YiH  Handschuchshelm  (see  p.  258). 

The  rdad  ascending  the  river  to  Zlegelhausen  passes  the  restau- 
rants Waldhom  (p.  265)  and  Ickrath^  which  afford  an  admirable 
view  of  the  castle.  —  Farther  on,  II/2  M.  from  the  Old  Bridge,  is 
the  convent  (secularized)  of  Neuburg  (Stiftsmuhle  Restaurant). 
Beyond  it  is  the  village  of  Ziegdhawen  (Ad^er,  very  fair,  D.  1 72"^, 
pens.  4-5  J/.\  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Heidelbergers. 

The  Heidelberg  Oemetery,  on  the  slope  of  the  Geisberg  (p.  272),  to 
the  S.  of  the  railway-station,  contains  the  tombs  of  Gervinus  (d.  1871), 
Blnntschli  (d.  1881),  and  other  eminent  professors.  At  the  S.  end  is  a 
Crematorium.  —  Tramway,  see  p.  266. 

The  Valley  of  the  Neekar  from  Heidelberg  to  Neekarels. 

Comp.  Mapj  p.  256. 
Railway  to  Neckabelz,  31 V2  M.,  in  1V4-2  hrs.;  fares  4  Ulf  10,  2  Ulf  80, 
1  Ul^  80  pf.  —  Besides  the  ordinary  trains,  there  are  in  summer  five  (on 
Son.  ten)  local  trains  every  day  to  IfeekargemUnd  (fares  10-20  pf. ;  tickets 
obtained  in  the  train),  calling  at  Carlsthor^  Jdgerhavt^  Scblierbaeh^  and 
KHmmelbacher  Ho/  (fine  view).  —  When  the  state  of  the  Keckar  permits, 
a  Steamboat  plies  once  or  twice  daily  from  Heidelberg  to  Ifeekartteinctch 
(up  2  hrsl,  down  1  hr.) ;  fares  1  Ul^,  80  pf.  On  Frid.  it  goes  on  to  (13  hrs.) 
Heilbronn. 

The  train  passes  from  the  main  railway-station  to  (2  M.)  the 
CarUihor  Station  (p.  264)  by  a  long  tunnel  under  the  castle-hill. 
The  abbey  of  Neuburg  and  the  village  of  Ziegelhausen  (see  above) 
^are  seen  to  the  left,  on  the  right  bank  of  tlje  river.  —  88/4  M. 
Schlierbach  (Restaurant  and  Pension  Volker). 

6  M.  HFeckargemund  (405  ft. ;  Pfalz,  with  garden  on  the  Neekar ; 
Hirsch;  Stadt  AtheUy  Greek  wlna-room),  a  pleasant  little  town  with 
2000  inhab.,  at  the  point  where  the  Neekar  is  joined  by  the  Elsen%^ 
the  valley  of  which  is  ascended  by  a  railway  to  Neckarelz  vU  Meekes- 
heim  (p.  275).  Walks  may  be  taken  to  the  Bockfelsen,  the  Tilly^ 
Stein,  and  the  castle  of  Reichenstein, 

The  Neekarthal  Railway  crosses  the  Neekar,  penetrates  a  tunnel 
leading  into  the  valley  of  Schonau,  and  reaches  — 

10  M.  Heckarsteixtaeh  (420  ft. ;  Harfe,  with  garden  on  the  river ; 
Schiff;  Schwalbermest^  opposite  the  station),  a  small  town  with 
1600  inhab.,  in  a  highly  picturesque  situation,  once  the  seat  of  the 
valiant  race  of  the  Steinachs,  who  became  extinct  in  1653.  The 
four  old  castles  still  bear  testimony  to  their  power.  The  church 
contains  numerous  monuments  of  the  family,  several  of  whom  bore 
the  surname  of  Landschaden  ('land-scourge'),  perhaps  from  the 
perpetual  feuds  in  which  they  were  engaged.  The  Mittelhurg  has 
been  restored  in  the  medieval  style  and  surrounded  with  a  park  by 
its  present  proprietor.  Baron  von  Dorth.  Burg  Schadeck,  or  the 
^Swallow^a  Ne8t\  frowns  above  a  deep  quarry.  A  good  view  of  the 
pleasing  valley  of  the  Neekar  is  obtained  from  the  tower.    The 

BaedsKbb's  Rhine.     15th  Edit.  tS^'^^^I^ 

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274  BouU32.  EBERBAOH. 

ascent  from  Neckarsteinach  to  the  Sc1iwalbennesttakeaJbarely^Y2^'- ; 
a  pleasant  walk  follows  the  'Mittleie  Bergweg'  to  (8/4  hr.)  Neckar- 
gemiind. 

In  the  8teinaeh-Thal,  3  H.  above  Keckarsteinach,  lies  Schftnaa  (510  ft.; 
Ldwe)^  with  the  ruins  of  a  Cistercian  conrent,  founded  in  1186.  The  old 
refectory  is  now  the  Protestant  church. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Neckai,  on  a  wooded  eminence,  rises 
the  castle  of  DiUhetg  (1080  ft.),  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  Tilly 
during  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  At  the  beginning  of  the  19th 
century  it  was  used  as  a  state -prison,  particularly  for  Heidelberg 
students,  and  the  rigour  of  the  conflnement  is  shown  by  the  story 
that  one  day  when  some  strangers,  visiting  the  castle,  desired  to 
;  see  the  <$eUs,  they  were  told  by  the  officer  in  command  that  he  could 
not  oblige  them,  as  the  prisoners  were  then  making  a  tour  in  the 
Odeimald  and  had  taken  the  keys  With  thdifir*  -——     " 

I2V2  M.  Neckarhawitn,  —  141/2  M.  Hirschhorn  (430  ft.;  Zum 
NaturalisUn;  beer  at  the  EngtC)^  a  small  town  with  2000  inhab., 
the  most  picturesque  point  in  the  lower  valley  of  the  Neckar.  Above 
the  town  (1/4  hr.)  and  connected  with  it  by  walls  is  the  handsome  and 
loftily-situated  old  Castle  of  the  once  powerful,  but  now  extinct 
barons  of  Hirschhom  or  Hirzhorn.  The  interior  (remoclelled  in 
1683-86)  contains  remains  of  Gothic  windows  and  some  old  frescoes 
(13th  cent.  ?).  A  path  with  steps  descends  to  a  monastery  erected  by 
the  Hirschhoms  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  in  1406,  the  chapel  of  which,  in 
the  late-Gothic  style,  still  contains  many  monuments  of  the  family 
(16-16th  cent.).  The  Erschhtimer  Capelle,  rising  above  the  river  on 
the  left  bank  (ferry),  a  late-Gothic  building  of  1517,  also  contains 
monuments  of  the  Hirschhorns.  —  Two  tunnels  are  passed  through. 

19  M.  Eberbach(430ft. ;  Bohrmann's  Hotel,  pens.  i^k'^%M; 
Leininger  Hofy  pens.  4  M;  Brockenhof,  pens.  31/2  J(;  all  very  fair, 
with  gardens;  Bail,  Restaurant^  an  old  town  with  5900  inhab., 
belonging  to  the  Prince  of  Leiningen,  and  carrying  on  a  brisk  trade 
in  timber.  Pleasant  wood-walks  in  the  vicinity.  —  From  this  point 
we  may  in  2  hrs.  (finger-posts)  ascend  the  Katzenbnckel  (2055  ft.), 
the  highest  of  the  Odenwald  Mts.,  either  via  Burghalde'Emichshurg 
or  (somewhat  longer)  vii  Waldkatzehbach  (Adler),  The  mountain  is 
composed  of  sandstone,  through  which  diorite  protrudes  at  the  top. 
The  tower  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Neckar,  Wur- 
temberg  as  far  as  the  Swabian  Alb,  and  the  Black  Forest.  We  may 
descend  to  Zwingehberg  (see  below)  in  1^/4  hr.  —  Railway  to  Er- 
bach,  Hochst,  and  Darmstadt  (or  Frankfort),  see  R.  31. 

Beyond  Eberbach  the  train  passes  Stolzenecky  on  the  left  bank, 
the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  13th  century.  —  2572^-  Zwingenberg 
(480  ft. ;  Anker)j  on  the  right  bank,  lying  close  to  the  river,  is 
commanded  by  a  picturesque  castle  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Baden, 
which  was  rebuilt  in  1694-95,  and  has  lately  been  restored  and 
rendered  habitable.    Five  of  the  eight  towers  are  still  preserved. 

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SCHWETZINGEN.  32,  Route.  275 

The  chapel  contains  some  mediaeval  wall-paintings.  The  Kat^en- 
huckel  may  also  he  ascended  hence  (2^2  hrs.),  the  hest  route  leading 
through  the  romantic  Wolfsschlueht^  hehind  the  castle. 

271/4  M.  Neckargerach  (Krone),  on  the  left  hank.  On  the  hiU 
above  are  the  ruins  of  the  Jlftnne&urp,  which  was  destroyed  in  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  The  valley  now  expands.  On  the  left  hank  is 
the  Reiherhcdde,  so  called  from  the  flocks  of  herons  (Reiher)  which 
have  established  themselves  here.  A  little  above  Ohrigheim,  on  the 
left  bank,  is  the  ruin  of  Dauchstein.  At  Diedeaheim  the  river  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge-of-boats.  —  Near  (28  M.)  Binau  the  train 
passes  through  a  tunnel  V2  ^-  ^^^  length. 

3IV2  M.  Neckarels  (505  ft.;  Klingenhtrg ^  very  fair,  pens. 
31/2-5  Jt ;  Lowe;  Rail,  Restaurant) y  on  the  right  bank,  at  the 
influx  of  the  Elz  into  the  Neckar,  contains  a  late-Gothic  lodge  of 
the  Templars.    Opposite  the  town  rises  the  Neuburg, 

Keckarelz  is  the  junction  for  the  Heilbronn  and  Heekesheim  line ,  by 
which  we  may  retarn  to  Heidelberg  (same  distance  nd  fares).  The  statiqns 
are  Asbach^  AgleuterJunuen^  HehMtadty  Neckarhi»chof$heim^  Waibstadty  Neiden- 
stein^  Etchelbronn^  Meekeiheim  (junction  for  ]the  Heilbronn  line),  Matter^ 
Bammenthdly  and  NeckargemUnd  (p.  273),  where  it  rejoins  the  line  above 
described. 

The  first  station  beyond  Neckarelz  in  the  direction  of  Wiirzburg  is 
Kosbach  (Prinz  Carl;  BadUeher  Hof)y  an  old  town  with  3600  inhab.,  on 
the  Elz.    Comp.  Baedeker^*  Southern  Germany. 


Fkom  Hhidblbebg  to  Sphybr,  I61/2  M.,  railway  in  1  Vi^^'-  (fares 
2ujr50,  luJTTO,  luirlOpf.).  — 3M.  Eppelheim;  iy^^,  Plankstadi, 

by 2  ^'  Schwetzingen  (^Hirschy  Adiety  both  by  the  entrance 
to  the  chateau;  Hdtel  Hasslefy  at  the  station:  Restaurant  Rittery 
beside  the  Birsoh),  a  pleasant  little  town  with  o500  inhab. ,  attracts 
numerous.visitors  from  Heidelberg.  The  SchlosSy  erected  by  Elector 
Charles  Lewis  in  1656,  and  destroyed  by  M^ac  in  1689,  but  after- 
wards restored,  was  the  residence  of  the  electors  at  the  beginning 
of  the  18th  century.  The  gardens  were  laid  out  by  Elector  Charles 
Theodore  in  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent,  in  the  style  of  the  grounds  at 
Versailles,  and  the  beautiful  old  avenues  have  since  been  surrounded 
with  grounds  in  the  English  style.  The  gardens  cover  an  area  of 
117  acres,  and  are  embellished  with  statues,  temples,  artiflcial 
ruins,  a  mosque  with  lofty  minarets,  and  other  objects  in  the  taste 
of  the  18th  century.  The  fountains  play  daily  from  the  middle  of 
April  to  the  middle  of  October.  A  walk  round  the  whole  of  the 
gardens  takes  about  two  hours  ('Guide',  50  pf.,  at  the  entrance). 

Schwetzingen  Is  the  junction  of  the  Speyer  line  with  the  rail- 
way to  Mannheim  and  Carlsruhe  (p.  279),  and  of  a  branch-line  to 
Friedrichsfeld  (p.  258).  All  the  express-trains  stop  here.  —  The 
Speyer  line  passes  (10  M.)  ThalhauSy  and  crosses  the  Rhine  by  a 
bridge  of  iron  pontoons  near  (13  M.)  Altlussheim. 

Speyer,  see  p.  295.  The  Rhine  Station  (141/2  M.)  is  near  the 
cathedral;  the  Pn'nctpo^  Station  (1 672  M.)  is  reached  in  lOmin.  more. 

18* 


276 


33.  Mannheim  and  Lndwigshafen. 


Railway  Stations.  The  Central  Station  (restaurant)  lies  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  town  (PI.  D,  5),  and  is  used  by  trains  in  all  directions.  A 
second  station  for  the  line  to  Lampertheim  and  Frankfort  or  Hayence 
(R.  dOa),  and  the  station  for  the  steam-tramways  to  Weinheim  (p.  257) 
and  Freudenheim  lie  beyond  the  Neclcar  Bridge  (PI.  D,  3). 

Hotela.  •Pabk  Hotel  (PI.  p;  D,  6),  Fried richs-Platz,  B.  SVrlO,  B.  IV4, 
D.  3J/2  4ulf,  new  J  ♦Pfalzbb  Hof  (PL  a;  C,  4),  Parade-Platz,  a  long^ 
estabUshed  house  refitted  in  1902,  R.  8-6,  B.  11/4.  D.  3  Jl.  ^  ^Deutscrss 
HoF  (PI.  c  \  G,  4),  commercial.  —  Kaiskbhof  (PI.  d  :  G,  D,  4),  Heidelberger- 
Str.,  opposite  the  post-office,  R.  from  2Vs,  B.  1  Ul^ ;  ^National  (PI.  e  •,  D,  5), 
R.  2V4-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V«  Jl\  LBHiff,  both  near  the  Gentral  Station  (PI.  D,  5); 
Victoria  (O,  6,  7).  —  Landsbsro  (PI.  fj  C,  5)^  Kbckabthal  (PL  h;  D,  8), 
near  the  Keckar  Bridge. 

Restaurants.  ffo/theater-Keller^  in  the  Theatre  (PL  G,  4);  Ooldner  Stem, 
Ca/4  *vr  Oper,  Ca/4  Franfais,  these  three  near  the  Theatre;  Ca/i  Victoria, 
Wiener  Ca/i  Central,  near  the  Strohmarkt^  Ballhatu,  in  the  Schloss-Garten, 
in  the  W.  wing  of  the  Schloss  ;  restaurant  iii  the  Stadt-Fark,  miltary  musie 
on  summer  afternoons.  —  Wins.  Arche  Noah  (PL  5,  2);  Z&hringer  Eof^ 
near  the  Speisemarkt. 

River  Baths,  above  the  bridge. 

Cabs.  With  one  horse:  1-2  pers.  for  1/4  hr.,  50  pf.,  3  or  more  pers. 
90  pf.-,  V«  ^r.,  80  Df.  or  1  Jf  20  pf.i  V*  hr.  1  UT  20  or  1  UT  60  pf.j  per 
hr.  1  ur  60  pf.  or  2Jf;  each  addit.  1/4  ^r.,  40  or  50  pf.  —  With  two  hortet: 
1-2  pers.  per  V4  J»r.,  i  Jt,  3  or  more  ners.  1  Ul^  10  pf.  i  V«  l^r.,  2  Ul^  or 
2  J 20  pf.  i  "A  l»r.i  2  Ur  50  or  2  Ur  80  pf.;  per  hr.,  3  UT  or  3  UlT  40  pf., 
each  addit.  V4  hr.,  60  or  60  pf.  —  Luggage:  25-55  lbs.,  20  pf.;  66-260  lbs., 
30  pf  ;  over  260  lbs.-  40  pf. 

Electric  Tramways.  From  the  Gentral  Railway  Station  (PL  D,  5) 
round  the  N.  «ide  of  the  inner  town,  and  to  the  station  at  Ludwigshafen 
(PL  A,  4)i  from  the  Waldhof  (to  the  N.  of  the  Neckar-Garten ,  Pi.  G,  1) 
to  Ludwigshafen  (Aniline  Factory.  Hem<)hof;  PL  A,  4);  from  the  Gontard- 
Plats  (PL  G,  D,  6)  to  the  Panorama  (PL  E,  3);  from  the  Jungbusch  quarter 
(PL  B,  G,  2,  3)  to  the  Slaughter  House  (PL  F,  6):  from  the  Rhein-Strasse 
(PL  B,  3)  to  Keckarau  (PL  E,  6). 

Steam  Ferry  (PL  B,  6)  to  Ludwigshafen,  every  6  minutes. 

Steamboat.  The  landing-place  is  below  the  bridge  over  the  Rhine^ 
s/4  M.  from  the  station  at  Ludwigshafen,  and  1  M.  from  the  Mannheim 
station.     Gomp.   the  Plan.     Steamboat  to  Hayence,  via  Worms,   in  4  hrs. 

British  Oonsul :  Dr.  Paul  Ladenburg.  —  United  States  Consul :  Beaton 
Barris,  Eeq. 

Post  Office  (PL  G,  4),  Parade-Platz  \  another  office  at  the  Gentral  Station. 

Mannheim  (275  ft.),  a  town  with  140,000  inhab.,  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Neckar  and 
connected  by  a  bridge  with  Ludwigshafen  (p.  278)  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Rhine,  was  founded  in  1606  by  Elector  Palatine  Frederick  IV. 
The  castle  he  then  built  was  destroyed  along  with  the  infant  town 
in  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  and  again  by  the  French  in  1689.  When, 
owing  to  ecclesiastical  differences,  Elector  Charles  Philip  (1716-42) 
transferred  his  residence  from  Heidelberg  to  Mannheim  in  1720,  the 
latter  enjoyed  a  period  of  prosperity  that  lasted  until  Charles 
Theodore  (1742-99),  the  next  elector,  in  his  turn  removed  the  court 
to  Munich  in  1778.  For  its  more  recent  importance  Mannheim  is 
indebted  to  the  deyelopment  of  the  Rhine  navigation  and  of  rail- 
ways. Within  the  last  50  years  it  has  increased  its  population  fivefold, 
and  it  is  now  the  most  important  commercial  town  of  the  Upper 


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Picture  OaUery.  MANNHEIM.  33.  Route,  277 

Rhine,  coal,  grain,  and  petrolenm  being  the  staple  commodities.  A 
considerable  manufacturing  Industry  (chemicals,  machinery,  etc.) 
has  also  sprung  up.  —  Mannheim  is  the  most  regularly  built  town  in 
Oermany,  being  divided  into  136  square  sections  like  a  chess-board. 
The  streets  are  distinguished,  according  to  the  American  system, 
by  letters  and  numerals,  and  the  recent  attempt  to  introduce  names 
has  met  with  no  popular  response.  The  streets  outside  the  Ring- 
Strasse  are,  however,  named. 

The  Grand -Dnoal  Palace  (PI.  G,  4,  5),  a  spacious  building 
in  the  baroque  style,  was  erected  in  1720-29  and  1749-60.  In 
the  court  are  a  handsome  Monument  to  Emp,  William  /.,  by  Eber- 
lein  (1894),  and  two  Monumental  Fountains  by  the  same  sculptor 
(189o),  representing  the  Rheingold  and  the  legend  of  the  Rhine.  The 
apartments  of  the  Grand-Duke  are  adorned  with  fine  plaster- work 
and  tapestry.  The  interior  also  contains  several  collections.  .  All  of 
these  may  be  visited  at  any  time  on  payment  of  */2"l  •^j  *^6  Col- 
lection of  Antiquities  is  open  free  in  summer  on  Sun.,  11-1  and 
3-5 ;  the  Cabinet  of  Natural  History  on  Sun.,  11-1  and  3-5,  and  on 
Wed.,  3-5:  the  Picture  Gallery  throughout  the  year  on  Sun.  &  Wed., 
11-1  and  3-6. 

The  central  structiire  (entr.  in  the  S.  angle  of  the  court)  contains  the 
united  Antiquarian  Oollectioni  of  the  Grand-ducal  Antiquarium  and  the 
Society  of  Antiquaries.  —  Vb8txbdx.i.  Hedieeval  sculptures  in  wood  and 
stone.  ~  KooM  I.  Objects  from  Greece  and  Italy:  vases,  terracottas, 
bronzes,  marble  sculptures,  cinerary  urns.  -  Rooms  II.  A  III.  Roman  and 
Germanic  antiquities,  chieny  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Mannheim.  —  We 
return  through  the  passage  and  the  entrance-hall  to  Room  IV.  Weapons 
and  military  relics  of  the  lTth-19th  centuries.  —  Room  V.  Plans  and 
views  of  Mannheim;  reminiscences  of  Schiller,  Karl  Sand,  the  murderer  of 
Kotzebue  (1819),  and  the  Revolution  of  1848.  —  Room  V.  Plans  and  views 
of  the  Palatinate,  portraits  of  Palatine  princes;  seals,  coins,  instruments 
of  torture,  —  Room  VI.  Ethnographical  collection.  —  Room  Vn.  Guild 
antiquities  and  recent  acquisitions. 

The  E.  wing  (entrance  in  the  court,  near  the  monument)  contains  a 
Collection  of  Casta,  acquired  at  Paris  in  1803  and  since  enlai^ed.  —  In 
the  same  wing  (entr.  also  from  the  Carl-Theodor-Platz)  is  the  Natural 
History  Cabinet,  in  six  rooms  in  the  baroque  style.  —  On  the  upper  floor 
of  the  E.  wing  are  the  Public  Library  (11-1 ;  61,000  vols.),  in  a  fine  hall, 
richly  decorated  in  the  rococo  style,  and  the  — 

Picture  OaUery  (catalogue  50  pf.),  founded  in  1803  hy  Grand-Duke 
Charles  Frederick  and  since  combined  with  the  Municipal  Collection  (cata- 
logue  30  pf  ).  The  Cobridob  contains  works  of  K.  Kuntx  (1770-1830),  a  native 
of  Mannheim  and  other  paintings  belonging  to  the  municipal  collection. 
Room  I  and  II  are  devote  toGerman  works,  including  landscapes  by  F.  KoheU 
(d.  1799).  —  In  Room  in  are  Italian  paintings  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  -^ 
Rooms  V-VII  contain  a  number  of  good  Netherlandish  works :  112.  Palamede*^ 
Musical  party;  113.  A.  van  Ostade,  Dutch  boors:  190.  A.  Diepraam,  Boors 
drinking ;  178.  8.  van  Rupsdael,  Landscape ;  187, 188.  Everdingen^  Norwegian 
landscapes:  199.  Phil.  Wouwerman^  Plunderers;  201.  Pieter  Wouverman^ 
Cavalry  skirmish;  Za(/',  316.  Interior,  217.  Kitchen;  *328.  Rubem,  Isabella 
Brant,  his  first  wife ;  D.  Tenters  the  Younger,  247.  St.  Sebastian,  249.  Boors 
drinking ;  278.  Peeterg,  Sea-piece ;  230.  Snyders,  Kitchen-gear ;  299-308.  Oaspard 
Pow#<n,  Landscapes:  N.  Pouisin^  804.  The  Golden  Calf,  206.  Moses  at  the  Red 
Sea  —  Room  VIII.  Municipal  Collection.  1.  Raupp^  Stormy  passage ;  8.  Oude^ 
Christiania  Fjord  x  4.  QrUttner^  Behind  the  scenes:  9.  BUfitahl^  Blessing  the 
alpine  pastures;  10.  Cl.  Meyer^  Dutch  scene;  16.  0.  Achenhach^  Villa  (TEste; 


278  Route  33,  LUDWIGSHAPEN. 

22.  DHL  Sea-piece-,  38.  Diiffenhaeher^  Arrest)  39.  K.  Hoff,  Capuchin  monk 
in  a  peasant's  hut;  33.  A,  Achenbachy  Dutch  coast;  73,  74.  J.  A.  Giidin^  Sea- 
beach;  104,  105,  108.  Rottmann^  Perugia,  JEgina,  and  Selinunto,  sketches 
for  the  frescoes  at  Munich ;  no  numbers,  0.  Acheiibaek,  Capitol  at  Rome ; 
Fmterbachj  Medea;  Lenbach,  Bismarck.  —  Booms  IX  and  X.  Permanent 
Exhibition  of  the  Eunstverein  and  Engravings. 

The  Palace  Garden  (PI.  B,  C,  4,  5),  the  StadtUche  ArUage,  and 
the  Toxjon  Park  (PI.  B,  4)  are  pleasant  resorts. 

The  Theatre  (PI.  0,4)  was  built  in  1776-79.  SchiUer's  first 
pieces,  the  ^Robbers',  Tiesco',  and  *Gabal  and  Love',  were  per- 
formed here  with  the  co-operation  of  Iffland  and  partly  nnder 
his  own  direction  (1782-84).  Schiller's  Monument^  by  Oauer,  in 
front  of  the  theatre,  was  erected  in  1862.  Adjacent,  on  the  right  and 
left,  are  statnes  of  Iffland  (d.  1814),  a  distinguished  actor  and  poet 
who  began  his  career  at  Mannheim,  and  Von  Dalberg  (d.  1806), 
intendant  of  the  theatre  In  1779-1803,  both  by  Widnmann.  —  The 
elaborately  adorned  Church  of  the  Jesuits  (PI.  1 ;  0, 4)  was  built  in 
1733.  The  former  Arsenal  (PI.  8;  0,  4)  was  built  in  1777-78.  In 
front  of  it  a  bronze-statue  of  Moltke,  by  Uphues,  was  erected  in 
1902.  —  The  curious  monument  in  the  Parade-Platz  (PI.  C,  4)  re- 
presents the  change  of  the  times  (1741);  that  in  front  of  the  RatMuius 
(PI.  0,  3, 4),  erected  in  1771,  refers  to  the  foundation  of  Mannheim. 
—  By  the  old  Rhein-Thor  is  a  War  Monument,  by  Volz  (1896).  — 
In  the  Kaiser-Ring,  near  the  Central  Station,  Is  a  Bismarck  Mon-- 
ument  by  Hundrleser  (1900).  Near  the  Water  Totoer  (PI.  D,  4),  In 
the  E.  extension  of  the  town,  are  the  Stddtische  Festhalle  (PL  E,  4) 
and  a  Panorama  (PI.  E,  3 ;  60  pf.).  —  The  Neckar  is  spanned  by 
the  Friedrichs-Brucke  (PL  D,  3),  constructed  In  1890-91. 

The  spacious  ^Harbour  (PI.  A,B,  4,  3, 2, 1),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Neckar  below  the  town,  has  been  greatly  extended  since  1897,  and 
Is  admirably  equipped  with  the  docks,  warehouses,  railway  con- 
nections, and  so  forth,  that  are  required  to  deal  with  the  important 
trade  of  the  town  (p.  19). 

The  Bhine  Bridge  (PL  B,  5),  built  in  1865-68,  and  a  steam- 
ferry  connect  Mannheim  with  Ludwigshafen.  The  former,  used  by 
the  railway,  tramway,  and  foot-passengers,  has  handsome  portals 
designed  by  Durm,  and  adorned  with  groups  of  figures  by  Moest. 

Ladwigshafen.  —  Bailway  Station,  near  the  Rhine  (PI.  A,  4);  trains 
to  yeustadt,  etc.,  see  p.  393 ^  to  Worms  ^  see  pp.  381,  280;  to  Speyer,  see 
p.  295.    Passengers  to  or  from  Mannheim  change  carriages. 

Hotels.  Dedtsches  Haus,  cor.  of  Ludwigs-Str.  and  Kaiser- Wilhelm- 
Str.,  R.  from  2,  D.  2  •#;  Ppalzkb  Hof;  Hot.  Mock. 

Beatanrants.  OeselUeha/Uhaus^  opposite  the  Roman  Catholic  Churchy 
with  garden  and  baths,  D.  ^^iJl;  HeinC*  Brewery. 

Ludwigshafen^  an  important  commercial  and  manufacturing 
town  with  61,900  inhab.,  begun  in  1843,  and  rapidly  increasing 
in  commercial  importance,  was  originally  only  the  tUe-de-pont  of 
Mannheim.  During  the  revolutionary  war  at  the  end  of  last  century 
it  was  several  times  the  scene  of  sanguinary  contests.  The  Wharves 


NIEBSTEIN.  34.R0UU,  279 

are  among  the  finest  on  the  Rhine.  The  new  churches,  in  the 
Romanesque  and  Gothic  styles,  are  well  worthy  of  inspection.  The 
former  (Roman  Catholic)  contains  frescoes  by  Siissmeler.  At  the 
rail,  station  is  a  monumental  fountain  (1897).  —  Above  the  town  is 
the  Leopold  Harbour,  opened  in  1897.  —  Branch-liue  to  (8  M.) 
Dannstadt, 

Fbom  LuDWiasHAFEN  TO  Gbosskablbaoh,  141/9  M.,  railway  in  2-2V4  brs. 
Stations:  Friesenheimj  Oppau^  Edigheitny  Frankenthal  (p.  280),  ffestheim^ 
Dimutein,  Lautnersheim.  

Fbom  Mannheim  to  Cablsbuhb,  38  M.,  Rhine  Valley  Rail- 
way in  I-I3/4  hr.  (fares  5  uT,  3  uT  30,  2  uT  20  pf. ;  express  6  J( 
70  pf.,  4ulf).  The  fast  express  between  Cologne  and  Bile  traverses 
this  line.  —  Immediately  after  leaving  Mannheim,  and  again  at 
Schwetzingen,  we  see  on  thel  left  the  mountains  near  Heidelberg. 
21/2  M.  Neckarau,  an  industrial  suburb  of  Mannheim ;  5  M.  Rheinau, 
with  a  large  new  harbour.  —  9  M.  Schwetzingen ,  see  p.  275.  The 
line  now  traverses  pine-forests ;  on  the  right  the  Palatinate  Moun- 
tains are  visible  nearly  the  whole  way.  — Beyond  (14  M.)  Bocken- 
heim  we  catch  several  glimpses  of  Speyer  Cathedral ,  in  the  plain 
to  the  right  across  the  Rhine.  I6V2  ^'  Neulussheim.  19^2  M. 
Waghauselj  where  the  Baden  insurgents  were  signally  defeated  on 
2l8tJnne,  1849.  —  2OV2M.  Wiesenthal.  —  lbM.  Graben-Neudorf, 
junction  of  the  Bruchsal  and  Oermersheim  railway  (p.  352),  is  con- 
nected with  Oarlsruhe  by  a  local  line  also.  -—  28V'>M.  Friedrichthal ^ 
31  M.  Blankenloeh;  34  M.  HagsfeU.  —  38  M.  CarUruhe  (p.  354). 

34.  From  Mayeace  to  Lndwigshafen  (Mannheim), 
Worms. 

42V«  M.  Railway  in  1V4-2V4  hrs.  •,  fares  5  UT  60,  4  UT  10,  2  UT  70  pf. 
Preu»Hseh-He$ii»ch€  Stcutttbahn  as  far  as  Worms  (in  «/4-l V«  ^r. ;  fares  3  Jl  70, 
2  Ur  80,  1  ur  90  pf . ;  express  iJ(20,3JH0  pf.)  and  beyond  it  the  PfUl- 
Mische  Bahn. 

Mayencey  see  p.  154.  —  The  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station, 
traverses  the  tunnel  under  the  citadel  to  the  Neuthor  station,  and 
passes  under  the  Darmstadt  line  (p.  250).  —  4^2  M»  Laubenheim  ; 
6  M.  Bodenheim,  junction  of  a  branch -line  via  Undenheim  (see 
below)  and  Gau - Odernheim  (p.  280)  to  (20  M.)  Alzey  (p.  286  j 
li/2hr.);  8  M.  Nackenheim.  These  three  wine-producing  villages 
lie  on  the  vine-clad  hiUs  to  the  right,  not  far  from  the  Rhine. 

11  M.  Kierstein  (Ztim  Rheinthaly  good  wine),  a  town  with 
4100  Inhab.,  is  noted  for  its  careful  vine-culture.  'Niersteiner'  is 
one  of  the  best-known  and  most  wholesome  of  Rhenish  wines ;  it 
is  marked  by  a  mildly-acid  flavour  with  considerable  aroma.  Most 
of  the  wine  of  Rhenish  Hesse  is  sold  under  this  name.  On  the 
hill  to  the  right  rises  an  old  watch-tower.  Branch-line  to  (6  M.) 
Undenheim  (see  above).  r^         1 

^  ^  Digitized  by  LiOOgle 


280  Route  34,  GUNTERSBLUM.  From  Mayence 

121/2  M.  Oppenheim  (^RitUr^  at  the  station),  an  industrial  town 
with  3700  inhab. ,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill  rising  above  tlie 
river,  is  commanded  by  the  church  of  St.  Catharine  and  the  mined 
castle  of  Landskron.  The  town  is  mentioned  in  the  Roman  itineraries 
as  Bauconica ;  it  afterwards  became  a  city  of  the  empire  and  enjoyed 
the  patronage  of  the  Franconian  emperors,  particularly  Henry  IT. ; 
and  at  a  still  later  period  it  was  an  important  member  of  the  league  of 
the  Rhenish  towns.  In  1689  the  town  was  destroyed  by  the  French. 

On  leaving  the  station  we  descend  the  avenue  in  a  straight  direc- 
tion, then  torn  slightly  to  the  left,  pass  the  lofty  round  clock -tower, 
and  go  through  an  archway  below  one  of  the  streets.  We  then 
ascend,  skirting  the  mediaval  wall,  to  the  (10-12  min.)  ruins  of 
the  once  famous  imperial  fortress  of  Landskron,  which  was  burned 
down  by  the  French  in  1689.  It  was  erected  in  the  reign  of  the 
Emp.  Lothaire,  and  restored  by  Emp.  Rupert,  who  died  here  in 
1410.  It  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  Oppenheim  and  the 
valley  of  the  Rhine.  —  We  next  descend  to  the  — 

*Catharinen^Kirchey  a  superb  (Jothic  edifice,  erected  in  1262-1317 
on  the  site  of  an  older  church,  partly  destroyed  in  1689,  and  thor- 
oughly restored  in  1878-89  from  the  designs  of  the  late  architect 
Schmidt  of  Vienna.  The  £.  part  of  the  church  forms  a  cruciform 
edifice  with  a  tower  over  the  crossing  and  two  W.  towers.  The  W. 
choir  (abbey -church),  which  was  consecrated  in  1439,  is  now  un- 
used and  shut  off  by  a  screen.  The  windows  contain  beautiful  tra- 
cery ;  most  of  the  stained  glass  is  modem.  The  clustered  columns 
with  their  delicate  capitals  should  also  be  noticed.  There  are  nu- 
merous monuments  of  the  Dalberg ,  Sicklngen,  and  other  families. 
The  details  of  the  exterior  repay  a  careAil  study.  The  sacristan 
lives  on  an  upper  Jfioor  to  the  left  of  the  steps  at  the  principal  S. 
entrance  (40  pf.).  To  the  N.,  in  the  old  churchyard,  is  8U  MichatVs 
Chapel  (charnel-house). 

In  front  of  the  S.  portal  of  the  church  is  the  market-place,  with 
a  War  Monument  for  1870-71 ;  the  monument  incorporates  a  column 
of  syenite  with  an  inscription,  dug  up  on  the  Landskron,  and  prob- 
ably found  in  the  Roman  quarry  on  the  Felsberg  (p.  258). 

171/2  M.  Ountersblnm  (Krone),  a  small  town  with  2000  inhab., 
possesses  a  Romanesque  church  with  helmet-shaped  towers.  On  the  N.  ^ 
side  of  the  town  is  the  chlteau  of  Count  Leiningen,  with  its  gardens. 

19  M.  AUheim;  21 V2  M.  Mettenheim.— From  (23V2M.)  Osthofen 
branch-lines  run  to  Oau-Odemheim  (12  M.,  in  1  hr.)  and  to  West- 
ho  fen  (4  M.).  On  the  Petersherg,  near  Gau-Odernheim,  are  the 
ruins  of  an  old  abbey  (ca.  1200). 

28 V2  M.  Worms,  see  p.  281. 

From  Worms  to  Mannheim,  see  p.  260 ;  to  Darmstadt^  see  p.  204 1  to 
Beniheim,  see  p.  256;  to  Mon$heim  (Bingen,  DOrklieim,  etc.),  see  p.  2ti6. 

From  Worm*  to  Off»Mnf  7  M.,  railway  in  38  minates. 

31 1/2  M.  Bobenheim.  —351/2^.  Frankenthal  (H6tel  Kaufmann ; 
Restaurant  Witter),  a  busy  industrial  town  with  16,900  inhab.,  is 


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to  Ludwigahafeh.  WORMS.  34,  Route,  281 

known  to  haye  existed  in  the  8th  cent,  and  after  1554  was  the  lefage 
of  many  Protestants  who  were  banished  from  the  Netherlands  by 
the  Spaniards.    It  was  fortified  in  1608-89  and  afterwards  com- 

?letely  rebnllt.  An  important  porcelain  factory  flonrlshed  here  from 
755  to  1799.  The  portal  of  the  late-Romanesque  Abbey  Churchy 
situated  at  the  back  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  founded  in  1119 
and  consecrated  in  1224,  is  worth  inspection. 

From  Fkankenthal  to  Febinshbiu  (p.  287),  8  M.,  railway  in  V«  br. 
(75,  50  pf.).  Stations :  FlotMrsheim-Eppsteinf  Larr^theim^  Weisenheim  am  Sand, 

39VsM.  O^ersftetm  (Krone),  a  town  with  6100  inhabitants.  The 
Loretto  Church  here  is  a  fine  building.  A  tablet  on  a  house  in 
the  Schiller-Strasse  records  that  Schiller  resided  here  in  1781.  He 
was  at  that  time  engaged  in  writing  his  'Kabale  und  Liebe'. 

42^/2  M.  LudwigBhafen,  see  p.  278.  —  Passengers  for  Mannheim, 
Heidelberg,  etc.,  change  carriages  here.  Routes  to  Neustadt,  Neun- 
kirchen,  Landau,  Speyer,  etc.,  see  pp.  288,  293,  295. 


WomiB.  ~  Tbe  Railway  Station  (PI.  6, 1),  for  all  the  above-mentioned 
lines,  is  situated  at  the  ends  of  Siegfried- Str.  and  Kaiser- Wilhelm-Str., 
1/4  M.  from  the  cathedral  and  from  the  Kammerer-Strasse. 

Hotels.  In  the  Town:  *Altbb  Kaisbb  (PI.  e;  A,  3),  Andrea8-Str.,near 
the  cathedral,  an  old-established  house,  B.  A  B.  3Vs,  D.  27tf  omn.  i/t  J( ; 
♦H6TKL  Haktmann  (PL  d  5  C,  2),  Kammerer-Str.  84,  R.  2-2V2,  B.  V^  D  2i/i, 
omn.  V2  •^»  WiLDBB  Mann  (PI.  e;  B,  3),  Peters-Str.  11,  near  the  market- 
place, patronised  by  Jews.  —  Near  the  Station:  Eubopaischbb  Hof  (PI.  aj 
B,  1) ,  B.  2-2Vt ,  B.  1 ,  D.  2V2  Jf;  Eaisbbhof  (PI.  f ;  B,  1).  similar  charges ; 
Bbzohskbohb  (PI.  g;  B,  1),  Kaiser- Wilhelm-Str.  19,  B.  2-3  •#,  B.  80  pf., 
well  spoken  of;  I^ahnhofs-Hotel  (PI.  b;  B.  1),  R.  from  IV2  •#,  plain. 

Bestaoranti.  Ca/i  Weits,  Rammerer-Str.l5;  Feethaus  Restaurant  (p.  283), 
with  garden,  D.  V/iJf;  Zur  CaJUtey  WoU-Str. ;  RJ^einischer  Bo/,  near  the 
Rhine  bridge,  with  garden  (rooms  to  let).  Also  at  all  the  Hotels  near  the 
station  (see  above).  —  Wine  Booms.  Zum  TocTUermann,  Hafergasse ;  Clemensj 
WoU-Str.  t  Mcdepartfis^  Grimhilden-Str.,  with  small  garden. 

Pott  c  Telegraph  Office  (PL  10 ;  C,  2),  Kdmmerer-Strasse. 

Biver  Baths,  near  the  Rhine  Bridge. 

Steamboat!  to  Hayence  in  2*/«-8  hrs.  The  Cologne  &  D&sseldorf  boats 
start  near  the  Bhine  Bridge  (comp.  PL  £,  F,  3,  4),  those  of  the  Netherlands 
line  V2  M.  lower  down. 

Wonm  (325  ft.),  one  of  the  most  ancient ,  and  in  the  middle 
ages  one  of  the  most  important  towns  in  Germany,  with  41,000  inhab. 
(nearly  2/gProt.,  1/3  Rom.Cath.,  and  2500  Jews),  lies  in  the  rich  plain 
of  the  Wonnegau,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine.  The  large  new  har- 
bour has  an  imposing  warehouse  in  the  old  German  style  and  there 
are  manufactories  of  leather,  wool,  yarn,  and  sparkling  wine,  etc.,  in 
the  town.  Of  the  old  fortifications  only  two  towers  (in  the  Ludwig- 
Str. ;  PI.  B,  G,  4)  and  a  portion  of  the  inner  wall  are  still  extant. 

Worms  is  the  K.amh,ixBorbetomagu*y  the  seat  of  the  Vangionea.  For  a  short 
time,  during  the  period  of  the  migrations  of  the  barbarian  hordes,  it  was 
tbe  capital  uf  the  Burgundkmt.  who  had  descended  from  the  Baltic  Sea,  but 
the  supremacT  of  that  race  terminated  with  the  defeat  of  King  Qnndioar  by 
the  Huns  in  437.  The  Prankish  kings,  and  afterwards  Charlemagne  and  his 
successors,  frequently  resided  at  Worms.  The  war  against  the  Saxons  was 
planned  here  in  772,  and  here  the  great  contest  concerning  the  investiture 


282  Route  34.  WORMS.  Luiher's  Monumeni. 

of  the  bishops  with  ring  and  staff  was  adjusted  by  the  Ooncordat  between 
the  Emp.  Henry  Y.  and  Pope  Galixtus  II.  (1122).  As  a  free  city  of  the  Em- 
pire, Worms,  in  the  disputes  between  the  emperors  and  the  princes,  always 
espoused  the  canse  of  the  former,  and  was  specially  faithful  to  the  un- 
fortunate Henry  lY.  Its  fidelity  was  rewarded  by  the  grant  of  various 
privileges,  chiefly  of  a  commercial  character.  The  union  between  Worms 
and  Mayence  laid  the  foundation  for  the  Confederation  of  Rhenish  Towns 
(1254).  At  Worms,  in  April,  1521,  was  held  the  Imperial  Diet,  at  which 
Luther  defended  his  doctrines  before  the  Emperor  Charles  Y.,  six  Electors, 
and  a  large  and  august  assemblage,  concluding  with  the  words :  ^Sere  I 
standi  I  cannot  act  otherwise^  Ood  help  me !    Amen.'' 

The  Thirty  Years'  War  proved  very  disastrous  to  Worms,  which  was 
repeatedly  occupied  and  laid  under  contribution  by  Mansfeld  and  Tilly, 
the  Spaniards,  and  the  Swedes.  In  1689  the  town  was  treated  with  savage 
cruelty  by  M^ac  and  the  young  Due  de  Cr^qui.  After  having  been 
pillaged,  it  was  set  on  fire,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  cathedral  and 
synagogue,  soon  became  one  smouldering  heap  of  ruins.  The  town  re- 
tained its  independence  down  to  the  Peace  of  Lun^ville  in  1801,  and  after 
the  short-lived  French  supremacy  was  annexed  to  Hesse-Darmstadt  in 
1815,  when  its  inhabitants  numbered  about  5000. 

To  Worms  and  to  the  Bosengarten  (p.  286),  on  the  opposite  bank, 
attach  many  ancient  traditions,  preserved  in  the  ^Nibelungenlied'  and  other 
heroic  poems.  Worms,  indeed,  is  the  centre  of  these  romantic  legends;  as 
the  city  of  the  Burgundian  King  Ganther  it  was  the  scene  of  Siegfried's 
heroic  achievements,  of  his  death  through  the  treachery  of  Hagen,  and  of 
the  revenge  of  Chriemhilde. 

From  the  railway-station  the  Siegfried-Strasse  (PI.  B,  G,  1)  leads 
to  the  former  Maimer  Thor  (p.  2^4)  while  the  Kaiser- Wilhelm- 
Strasse  leads  to  the  Luther-Platz^  situated  at  tlie  entrance  to  the 
old  town.  The  square  is  embellished  with  ^Luther's  Monument 
(PI.  B,  2),  designed  hy  Rietsehel  (d.  1861)  in  1856,  and  modelled 
by  KietZy  Dondorff  and  Schilling  of  Dresden  (erected  in  1868). 

This  imposing  memorial  of  the  great  Reformer  of  Germany,  the  ex- 
ecution  of  which  occupied  12  years  and  cost  about  17,000  <.,  merits 
examination.  A  massive  platform,  16  yds.  square  and  9Vs  ft-  high,  bears 
in  its  centre  a  large  pedestal,  surrounded  by  seven  smaller  ones.  The 
central  base  or  pedestal  is  surmounted  by  another  pedestal  in  bronze, 
adorned  with  reliefs  from  Luther's  life,  and  medallion-portraits  of  his 
contemporaries  who  contributed  to  the  Reformation.  On  it  stands  Luther's 
statue  in  bronze,  a  commanding  figure,  11  ft  in  height  In  his  left  hand 
he  holds  a  Bible,  on  which  his  right  hand  is  placed  emphatically;  while 
his  face,  on  which  faith  is  admirably  pourtrayed,  is  turned  upwards.  'He 
is  surrounded  by  a  row  of  bold  spirits,  who  before,  or  along  with  him 
had  fought  the  last  struggle  for  the  freedom  of  the  Reformation,  or  were 
privileged  to  promote  it  in  various  positions  of  life.'  At  the  comers  of 
the  chief  pedestal,  in  a  sitting  posture,  are  four  precursors  of  the  Reform- 
ation: in!  front,  r.  Huss  (d.  1415),  1.  Savonarola  (d.  1498);  at  the  back, 
r.  Wycliffe  (d.  1387) ,  1.  Petrus  Waldus  (d.  1197).  On  the  side-pedestals 
in  front  are  Philip  the  Generous  of  Hesse  on  the  right,  and  Frederick  the 
Wise  of  Saxony  on  the  left;  at  the  back  Helanchthon  on  the  right,  and 
Reuchlin  on  the  left  (each  9  ft  in  height).  Between  these,  on  lower  ped- 
estals, are  allegorical  figures  of  the  towns  of  (r.)  Magdeburg  (mourning), 
(1.)  Augsburg  (making  confession),  and  (at  the  back)  Speyer  Q>rotesting). 
Between  these  figures  are  the  arms  of  the  24  towns  of  Germany  which  first 
embraced  the  reformed  faith. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Luther-Platz  Is  the  HeyUhof,  built  for  Baron  Heyl 
in  1884  on  the  site  of  the  Bisehofshofy  or  episcopal  palace,  in  which 
Luther  made  his  defence  in  1521 ,  and  wliich  was  destroyed  by  the 
French.  The  garden  is  open  dally,  11-5  (entr.  In  the-Schloss-Platz). 

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Cathedral.  WOBMS.  34,  Boute,   283 

The  Volks-Thbatbb  &  Fbsthaus  (PI.  A,  1),  in  the  Festbaus- 
Strasse,  was  completed  in  1889  by  March.  The  stage  can  be  en- 
larged for  the  performance  of  spectacular  and  popular  pieces; 
the  fine  banqueting  hall  is  destined  for  concerts  and  assemblies. 
Restaurant  (p.  281)  j  fine  view  of  the  cathedraL 

The  ^Cathedral  (PL  B,  2),  dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul, 
is  of  yery  ancient  origin,  dating  as  to  its  ground-plan  and  its  oldest 
part  (lower  half  of  W.  towers)  from  the  11th  and  early  12th  cent, 
(consecrated  in  1110) ;  the  remainder  of  the  building  was  consecrated 
in  1181.  The  W.  choir  and  towers  are  under  restoration,  while  the 
dome  over  the  cross  has  been  rebuilt.  The  S.  portal,  richly  adorned 
with  sculptures  of  Scriptural  subjedts  and  allegorical  figures  of  the 
Church  and  the  Synagogue,  was  re-erected  in  the  Gothic  style  about 
the  end  of  the  13th  century.  With  its  four  slender  round  towers, 
two  domes,  and  double  choir,  the  cathedral  ranks,  like  those  of  Speyer 
and  Mayenoe,  among  the  finest  examples  of  Romanesque  architecture 
in  the  Rhineland.    The  exterior  in  particular  is  strikingly  effective. 

The  Interior  (closed  until  2  p.m.  •,  entrance  on  the  S.  side ;  fee  to  the 
sacristan ,  for  whom  a  boy  may  be  sent,  50  pf.)  is  141  yds.  long,  29  yds. 
wide,  across  the  transept  40  yds.  wide,  nave  105  ft.  high.  Imme^ately  to 
the  left,  in  the  second  S.  chapel  (St.  Joseph's),  is  a  whitewashed  relief 
(12th  cent.),  representing  Daniel  in  the  lions'  den.  —  The  Baptistery^  on  the 
right  side  of  the  8.  Portal,  contains  five  large  ^High  Reliefs  in  stone,  dating 
from  1487  and  1488,  admirably  executed,  brought  hither  on  the  demolition  of 
the  old  cloisters  of  1484)  they  represent  the  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  (1), 
Annunciation,  Deposition  in  the  Tomb,  Resurrection,  and  Genealogy  of  Christ. 
The  coats-of-arms  and  keystones  placed  here  are  also  from  the  cloisters. 
The  late-Gothic  Font  is  from  the  chapel  of  St.  John,  taken  down  in  1807. 

The  Tombstone  of  the  Three  Frankish  Princesses  of  the  14th  cent.,  now 
in  the  N.  aisle,  is  interesting.  —  To  the  left  in  the  E.  choir  is  a  mutilated 
Romanesque  relief  of  St.  Juliana  and  the  Devil,  inscribed  'Otto  me  fecit\ 
The  choir-stalls  and  rococo  high-altar  should  be  noticed. 

It  may  interest  those  versed  in  German  lore  to  know  that  the 
space  in  front  of  the  cathedral  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the 
quarrel  between  Brunhilde  and  Ghriemhilde,  recorded  in  the  14th 
Adventure  of  the  Nibelungenlied. 

In  the  Dechaneigasse,  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral-square,  is  the 
Tovm  Library  (PI.  3 ;  A,  3),  containing  some  rare  impressions.  — 
A  little  to  the  S.W.  is  the  late-Romanesque  Andreas- Kirche  (PI.  4, 
A,  3 ;  closed). 

The  streets  to  the  E.  lead  from  the  cathedral  to  the  Mabkbt 
Place,  which  contains  the  Dreifaltigkeits-Kirche  (PI.  5  j  B,  3)  or 
Church  of  the  Trinity,  built  in  1724. 

In  the  Hagen-Strasse,  to  the  E.  of  the  market-place,  rises  the 
Stadthaus  (PI.  11;  B,  3),  rebuilt  in  1883-84  after  designs  by 
SeidL  The  large  hall  contains  a  fresco  by  Prell^  representing  Emp. 
Henry  IV.  conferring  important  commercial  privileges  on  the  town 
(1074).  The  extensive  archives  are  housed  in  the  pavilion  in  the  court. 

The  Kammerbr-Stbasse  (PI.  B,  0,  2),  the  chief  business  thor- 
oughfare of  the  town ,  leads  from  the  market-place  to  the  former 


284  Route  34.  WORMS.  Paulut  MuHum. 

Mainzer  Thor  (PL  C,  2).  —  We  follow  the  FStrbergasse  to  the  E. 
to  the  — 

PauliUhKirehe  (PI.  9 ;  0, 8),  a  Romanesque  building  of  1102-16, 
kiferior  in  interest  to  the  cathedral  alone.  The  W.  porch  and  the 
choir,  in  the  form  of  a  half  decagon,  date  from  the  beginning  of 
the  13th  century.  The  interior,  restored  at  the  beginning  of  the 
18th  cent,  in  the  baroque  style,  contains  the  Paulu$  Museumy  an 
extensive  and  well-arranged  collection  of  Germanic  antiquities  of 
all  epochs.  Adm.  on  San.,  10.30-12.30,  free;  on  other  days,  on 
application  to  the  custodian,  50  pf.,  for  a  party  25  pf.  each. 

The  doors  of  the  handsome  Bomaneaque  W.  Portal  are  a  copy  of  those 
of  Hildesheim  Cathedral. 

Interior.  By  the  entrance  are  the  sknll  and  antlers  of  an  Irish  Elk. 
Oollection  of  prehistoric  antiquities  and  an  Btrusean  bronxe  shield,  found 
in  the  Rhine.  On  the  right  side  of  the  Vbstxbdlb  are  prehistoric  antiquities 
of  the  later  iron  age:  also  Roman  altars,  milestones  (two  bearing  the  name 
of  Borbetomagus,  p.  281),  etc.  In  theKAVX  hTeRonutn  Antiquities,  chiefly  from 
Worms  and  its  neighbourhood,  including  an  extensive  collection  of  Roman 

5 lass;  three  helmets,  a  military  diploma  of  90  A. D.,  terracotta  vessels,  etc. 
'he  Frankish  Antiquitie*  are  also  arranged  here :  bronze  vessels  with  early 
Christian  representations ;  numerous  objects  found  in  tombs ;  mediaeval 
objects;  tombstones  of  the  14-18th  centuries.  —  In  the  Choib  are  two  panel 
paintings  from  the  cathedral,  perhaps  part  of  a  reliquary;  late-Qothic  altar 
and  carvings ;  stained  glass.  —  The  Sagkisty  contains  a  collection  of  coins 
and  art-industrial  objects.  —  In  the  Oallbbt  are  antiquities  of  the  civic 
guilds,  costumes,  coins,  views  of  the  city,  etc. 

In  the  Cloisters  are  Roman  well-heads,  roof-tiles,  vessels,  etc.  Roman 
and  Byzantine  textiles  (2nd-7th  cent);  antiquities  from  Cyprus;  also  pre- 
historic antiquities  of  the  stone  age. 

A  room,  furnished  in  the  Gothic  style,  in  the  "S.  tower  beside  the  W. 
portal,  contains  the  ''Luther  Librarp\  with  rare  early  editions  of  the  works 
of  Luther  and  his  contemporaries  and  also  three  letters  of  Luther.  —  The 
8.  tower  contains  works  printed  at  Worms  in  1512  and  later. 

In  the  Ludwios-Platz  (PI.  G,  2)  is  an  Obelisk  to  the  memory  of 
Grand-Duke  Lewis lY.,  erected  in  1895.  Close  by,  in  the  Martins- 
gasse,  stands  the  Chwch  of  8t.  Martin  (PL  8;  C,  2),  built  in  1265, 
partly  destroyed  by  fire  in  1689,  and  restored  in  1888 ;  it  contains  old 
mural  paintings  (ruined).  —  In  the  Judengasse,  to  the  right,  is  the 
Synagogue  (PI.  12;  0,  D,  2),  an  insignificant  building  dating  from 
the  11th  cent.,  remodelled  in  the  13th  cent.,  and  now  quite 
modernised  (key  at  No.  27,  Judengasse;  fee  50  pf.).  Behind  the 
adjacent  Raschi  Chapel  (which  owns  prayer-books  of  the  Romanesque 
period),  the  old  Jewish  Bath  (11th  cent.)  was  discoyered  in  1900. 
The  Jewish  community  of  Worms  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Germany. 

In  the  industrial  Mayence  suburb,  which  was  destroyed  by  the 
Swedes  and  French  and  has  but  lately  been  rebuilt,  the  noble  late- 
Gothic  Liebfranen-KiTche  (^Church  of  Our  Lady;  PI.  E,  1),  V2  M. 
from  the  Mainzer  Thor,  alone  escaped  (key  at  Liebfrauenstift  21). 
The  church,  which  was  restored  in  1882-83,  is  in  the  shape  of  a 
cruciform  basilica,  with  an  ambulatory  and  two  W.  towers.  It  re- 
places an  older  edifice ,  and  was  consecrated  in  1467 ;  the  keystone 
of  the  vaulted  roof  bears  the  arms  of  the  different  corporations  of 
Worms  who  caused  it  to  be  built.    Inside,  to  the  right  of  the 


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ALZEY.  35.  Route.  285 

entiance  is  a  painted  sculpture  of  the  Entombment  (14th  cent.). 
The  stained  glass  is  modem.  Handsome  choir-stalls.  -—  The  wine 
called  Liebfrauenmileh  is  yielded  by  vineyards  near  the  church. 

Worms  is  connected  with  the  right  bank  of  the  Bhine  by  a  railway- 
bridge  Cp.  254)  and  by  the  Emtt-Ludwig-Brileie  (PI.  B,  F,  4;  toll  3  pf ),  an 
iron  bridge  of  three  arches,  erected  in  1898*1S00.  From  the  centre  of  the 
latter  we  command  a  good  view  of  the  Odenwald  an<l  of  the  Haardt.  — 
The  barren  right  bank  of  the  river  immediately  below  the  bridge  is  all 
that  represents  the  famous  Bofenfforten  (PI  F,  4*,  p.  263),  once  an  island  in 
the  Bhine. 

The  Water  Tower  at  the  end  of  the  Dalberger-Str.  (PI.  A,  1),  in  the  new 
-W.  quarter  of  the  town,  commands  a  wide  panorama  (adm.  by  order  from 
the  Director  of  the  Town  Water  Works,  Kloster-Str.). 

Hermheim^  3  H.  to  the  N.W.  of  Worms,  has  a  beautiful  private  *Park, 
to  which  visitorfl  are  admitted. 

Lorsch  (p.  256)  may  be  conveniently  visited  from  Worms. 

35.  From  Bingen  or  Mayence  vi&  Alzey  to  Kaisers- 
lantern,  Worms,  or  Nenstadt. 

Comp.  Map$^  pp.  285 ^  292, 
Bailwat  fbom  Bi{76en  to  Alzet,  2OV2  M.,  in  iV4  hr.  (fares  2  Ulf  80, 
2  Ur  10,  1  ur  40  pf.);  TO  WOKMs,  39  M.,  in  2V4  hrs.  (fares  5  UT  20,  3Ur  90, 
2Ul^  60pf).  —  Fbom  Matbncb  to  Alzbt,  251/8M  ,  in  li/zhr.  (fares  3  •#  40, 
2  •#  60,  1  •#  TO  pf.I  —  Fbom  Alzet  to  Eaisbbslautbbn,  35  H.,  in  2  hrs. 
(fares  4  Ul?  60,  2  U?  BO,  1  UlT  80  pf.).  —  Fbom  Alzey  to  Neustadt  (*HeP8ische 
Ludwigs^>ahn'  to  Honsheim,  and  beyond  it  'Plalzische  Bahn'),  36  M.,  in 
2Vr3  hrs.  (2nd  cl.  3  UT  40  pf..  3rd  cl.  2  UT  20  pf.).  —  The  route  from  Mayence 
to  Nenstadt  vi&  Ludwigshafen  is  preferable  (express  in  2  hrs.)* 

FbokBxnosn  (p.  128)  to  Alzet.  —  The  train  leaves  the  Rhine  at 
(2  M.)  Kempteriy  and  turns  southwards. — 4^/2  M.  Budesheim-DromerS' 
heim  is  also  a  station  on  the  new  line  mentioned  at  p.  140.  Both 
Tillages  produce  wine.  —  7M,  Oenaingen-Horrweiler ;  9  M.  Welges' 
heim-Zotzenheim ;  W/2  M.  Sprendlingen  (hranch-line  to  WoUstein- 
Furfeld)]  121/2  M.  Oaubickelheim;  14  M.  WalUriheim,  At  (16  M.) 
Armaheim,  with  a  Gothic  church  of  1430,  a  branch-line  diverges  for 
Flonheim  and  Wendehheim,  19 V2  M.  Albig,  —  20 V2  M.  Alzey. 

Fbom  Matbnoe  (p.  154)  to  Ajlzbt.  —  41/2  M.  Qonsenheim,  a 
favonrite  resort  of  the  Malnzers  (pleasant  excursion  through  the 
Miihlbaeh-Thal  to  the  Lenidberg,  see  p.  165).  To  the  left  is  the 
Roman  aqueduct  of  Zahlhach ;  to  the  right  lies  Finthen.  —  6  M. 
Marienbomj  9Mi.  Klein^Winternheim;  11 M.  Nieder-Olm;  14^2  M. 
NUder-Saulheim ;  17  M.  Worrstadt  (Krone) ;  20 V2  M.  Armsheim 
(see  ahove);  241/2  M.  Albig.  —  25 V2  M.  Alzey. 

Alzey  (Darmatddter  Hofjy  a  Hessian  town  with  6950  inhah., 
on  the  SelZj  possesses  a  late-Gothic  church  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
destroyed  hy  the  French  in  1687.  It  was  the  Altiaia  of  the  Romans, 
and  its  name  occurs  in  the  Nibelungenlied.  Alzey  is  the  junction 
for  several  railways. 

Fbom  Alzbt  to  Kaisbbslautbbn.  —  3  M.  Wahlheim;  6  M., 
Monckhtim-IUbesheim.  —  91/2  M.  Kirohheimholanden  (880  ft. ; 
B6tel  BechteUheimer  i   Traube)^  a  husy  little  town  of  3500  inhah. 

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286  RouU35.  GdLLHEIM.  Rhenish 

with  a  chateau  of  the  former  princes  of  Nassau- Weilburg,  built  in 
1753  and  restored  after  a  Are  in  1861  (interesting  chapel). 

From  Kibchhbimbolandbv  to  thb  Donnbbsbbbo.  A  good  road  ascends 
from  the  town  to  (4i/s  M.)  DannenfelSj  situated  on  the  slope  to  the  S.  of 
the  road,  in  the  midst  of  beautifol  old  chestnut -trees,  and  visited  as  a 
summer-resort.  About  */i  M.  farther  up  through  wood  is  the  Villa  DonnerS' 
btrg^  a  hotel  and  pension,  with  a  view-terrace.  Pleasant  paths,  weIl-pro> 
vided  with  finger-posts,  lead  from  the  village  and  from  the  villa  to  various 
points  of  view  on  the  E.  and  8.  slopes  of  the  Donnersberg.  The  tower 
(98  ft.  high ;  key  obtained  at  Dannenfels),  on  the  top  of  the  Donnersberg 
(2246  ft.),  the  Mom  JovU  of  the  Romans,  and  the  French  Mont  Tormerre, 
commands  an  extensive  view.  Near  the  tower  is  a  firmly  constructed  frag- 
ment of  a  Celtic  fort.  —  Fbom  Rookenhausbn  (p.  170),  a  railway-station 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  mountain,  the  ascent  occupies  the  same  time.  A  road 
leads  thence  to  (4V<  H.)  the  village  of  Marienthal^  whence  the  tower  is 
reached  in  1  hr.  more.  —  The  Donnersberg  may  iJso  be  ascended  from 
Winnweiler  (p.  170  i  through  the  Falkenstein  valley,  steep,  3  hrs.),  or,  most 
conveniently,  from  Bdrntadt  (see  below  \  1  Va  hr.).  —  From  Dannenfels  to 
Odllfuim  (see  below)  vi&  Jacobsweiler  and  Dreiien^  b^l%  M. 

13  m.  Matnheim ;  branch-line  to  (8  M.)  Monsheim  (see  below), 
vilt  Alhisheimy  Harxheim^ZeUy  and  Waehenheim, 

15  M.  OoUheim-DreUen.  The  village  of  Odllheim  (Ooldenes 
Ross)  lies  1^2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  station.  Near  it  rises  the  Basen* 
buhly  where  Emperor  Adolph  of  Nassau  was  defeated  and  slain  by 
Albert  of  Austria  on  2nd  July,  1298.  At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  town 
Is  a  modern  Chapel,  designed  by  Voit,  into  the  walls  of  which  is 
built  the  old  'Konigskreuz',  a  figure  of  the  Saviour  in  red  sand- 
stone, erected  on  the  battlefield  in  the  14th  century. 

18  m.  Borrstadt  (ascent  of  the  Donnersberg,  see  above). — 22  M. 
Langmeil  (Frank,  at  the  station).    For  the  Alsenz  line,  see  p.  170. 

241/2  M.  Neuhemsbaeh'Sembcuih,  —  27  M.  Erikenbcuih  (Ries) 
contains  the  interesting  late-Romanesque  church  of  a  Prssmonstra- 
tensian  abbey,  founded  in  1150  and  suppressed  in  1664.  The 
church  (restored  since  1876)  is  adjoined  on  the  S.  by  a  cloister,  one 
walk  of  which  formed  the  S.  transept  of  the  church.  Fine  W. 
portal.  —  3IV2  ^'  EseUfurthy  with  the  finely  wooded  Barbarossa 
Parky  belonging  to  Kaiserslautem.  The  (2'/4  M.)  Bremerhof  is  a 
favourite  pleasure-resort. 

33  V2  ^'  Kaiserslautem  (N.  Station) ;  35  M.  Kaiserslautem  (Prin- 
cipal Station),  see  p.  293. 

Fbom  Alzby  to  Wobms.  —  2^2  M.  Kettenheim;  5  M.  Eppels- 
heim;  7  M.  Oundersheim;  972  M.  Niederflorsheim,  —  11  M.  Mons- 
heim,  the  junction  for  Neustadt  and  for  Marnheim  (see  above).  — 
15  M.  Pfeddersheim ;  17  M.  Pfiffligheim ,  with  a  very  ancient  elm 
(*Luther-Baum').  -  I8V2  M.  Worms,  seep.  281. 

Fbom  Monshbim  to  Nbustadt.  —  IV4M.  EohensiUzen;  l^j^lA, 
Bockenheim ;  Ay^  M.  Albsheim. 

5V2  M.  Gr&nstadt  (Jacobslust;  Pfalzer  Hof),  a  town  with  3900 
inhabitants.  The  ruins  of  the  old  chtlteaux  of  AU-  and  Neu-Lei- 
r^ingen,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1690,  lie  on  a  hill  In  the  dis- 
tance to  the  right. 

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PalatinaU.  dOrKHEIM.  35,  Route,   287 

FsoM  Gbuhstadt  to  Eisbnbbbo  Ain>  Hbttbmleidblhbim,  51/3  and  6  M., 
In  ca.  VaJif'  —  The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Eishach^  passing  numerous 
clay-pits.  IV4  M.  AgselJteim.  At  (2V2  M.)  Merfesheim  divei^es  the  line  for 
BettenieidelMm.  —  4  M.  Ebtrtgheim.  —  SVa  M.  Einenherg  (Derlinger),  whence 
a  diligence  plies  twice  daily  to  OOllheim  (p.  268).  Gdllheim  may  also  be 
reached  in  2>/4  brs.,  by  a  pleasant  detour  yift  the  old  convent  of  Rosentftaly 
with  an  interesting  late-0oihic  church  (15th  cent.); 

Fbom  ObOmstadt  to  W0BM8,  iOVs  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.,  via  Albsheim 
(p.  286),  OffitHn,  and  WeituMm. 

8  M.  Kirchheim-an-dtr-Eck.  From  (11  M.)  Freinsheim  a 
branch-line  diverges  to  Frankenthal  (see  p.  281).  12 Y2  M.  Erpolz- 
heim.   Extensive  vineyards  in  every  direction. 

151/2  M.  D&rkheim  (380  ft. ;  HdUlHausling,  near  the  Cur-Garten, 
Vier  Jahreszeitefiy  R.  1V2~^V2)  P^ns.  from  4  •#,  both  visited  for  the 
grape-cure;  Cafi-Re$taurant  Schupple;  wine  at  Bach- Meyer' i  and 
DieH^8\  with  6200  inhab.,  one  of  the  busiest  towns  in  the  Palatinate, 
with  its  conspicuous  new  Gothic  spire,  is  beautifully  situated  among 
the  vineyards  of  the  Haardt  Mts.  The  town  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt 
after  the  ravages  of  the  French  in  1689.  It  afterwards  enjoyed  great 
prosperity  as  the  residence  of  the  Princes  of  Leiningen-Hartenburg, 
whose  handsome  palace ,  in  which  IfiFland  (p.  278)  once  acted,  and 
which  was  burned  down  by  the  French  in  1794,  occupied  the  site  of 
the  present  town-hall.  There  are  a  few  antiquities  in  the  court- 
room. The  neighbouring  salt-baths  of  PhilippshaUe  attract  a  few 
visitors  in  spring.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  pleasant  promenades. 

On  an  abrupt  eminence  at  the  entrance  to  the  Isenach-Thal^  about  Uh  M. 
to  the  W.  of  Diirkheim,  lie  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  Benedictine  Abbey 
of  ^Limbnrg,  once  a  chateau  of  the  Salic  Count  Conrad  the  Blder,  who  was 
elected  king  of  Germany  in  1024  (Conrad  11.).  His  eldest  son  Conrad 
having  perished  while  engaged  in  hunting,  the  king  determined  to 
convert  his  ancestral  castle  into  a  religions  house  for  the  welfare  of  his 
son's  soul.  On  12th  July,  1030,  at  4  a.m.,  as  the  chroniclers  inform  us, 
he  and  his  queen  Gisela  accordingly  laid  the  foundation-stone  of  the 
church,  and  at  a  later  hour  on  the  same  day  he  is  said  to  have  also  laid 
the  first  stone  of  the  Speyer  cathedral.  The  Abbey  of  Limburg  was  com- 
pleted  twelve  years  later  and  presented  to  the  Benedictines,  who  soon 
acquired  large  possessions.  Tlie  abbots  placed  themselves  under  the 
protection  of  the  Hartenburg  Counts  of  Leiningen,  but  having  quarrelled 
with  them,  their  abbey  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  Count  Emich  VIII. 
in  1604.  The  buildings  were  partly  re-erected  between  1515  and  1554, 
but  the  abbey  having  been  suppressed  by  Elector  Frederick  III.  in  1574 
they  gradually  fell  to  decay.  The  ruins  of  the  imposing  Basilica,  which 
now  belong  to  government,-  afford  an  admirable  example  of  the  style 
of  the  11th  cent.,  and  are  surrounded  with  pleasant  grounds.  The  S.W. 
tower,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  commands  a  fine  view 
(137  steps).  The  walls  surrounding  the  church,  part  of  the  original  cloisters, 
and  the  burial -chapel,  which  is  open  at  the  E.  side,  are  still  preserved. 
Charming  view  in  three  different  directions.    (Inn  at  the  top,  very  fair.) 

We  may  now  proceed  towards  the  W.,  either  by  a  hilly  path  along 
the  heights,  or  by  Hansen^  to  the  Hartenburg,  the  conspicuous  red  ruins 
of  which  are  situated  in  the  Isenach-Thal,  2V4  M.  from  the  Limburg.  This 
extensive  castle  was  erected  by  the  Counts  of  Leiningen  about  the  year 
1200,  and  was  afterwards  enlarged:  in  1510  it  was  restored  in  the  Be* 
naissance  style,  and  in  1794  it  was  blown  np  by  the  French.  The  ruin  is 
surrounded  with  pleasant  promenades.  On  the  E.  side,  on  the  path  from 
the  Limburg,  there  is  a  large  grass-plot  where  tournaments  were  once 
held,  planted  with  fine  lime-trees,  and  oonunanding  a  pleasing  survey  of 


288  Route  35,  WACHENHEIM. 

the  valley.  At  the  foot  of  the  castle  lies  the  village  of  Hartenburg  (Hirsch), 
3  M.  from  Diirkheim  by  the  highroad.  —  A  walk  from  Hartenburg  up 
the  pretty  iMenaeh-Thai  to  Frankenstein  (p.  293)  takes  abont  3  hours. 

To  the  K.  W.  of  Diirkheim  rises  the  wooded  Kagtanienberg^  the  summit 
of  which  is  enclosed  by  a  rude  stone  rampart^  57-100  ft.  broad,  7-13  ft. 
high,  and  about  372  M.  in  circumference,  called  the  Heidenmaner,  and 
probably,  like  the  similar  structure  on  the  Altkonig  (p.  247),  of  ancient  Qer- 
manic  origin.  On  the  right  rises  the  TevfeUsUin^  a  rock  13  ft.  in  height. 
The  ^heathens'  wair  and  the  abbey  of  Limburg  furnished  Cooper  with 
the  background  for  one  of  his  novels.  The  paths  are  provided  with 
finger-posts,  which  indicate  the  way  to  several  good  points  of  view. 

Oh  the  hill  to  the  right,  beyond  Diirkheim,  we  observe  the 
Limburg,  and  nearer  the  railway  rises  the  *Flaggenthurm'  (view).  — 
18  M.  Waohenheim  (Dalbtrger  Hof),  with  2300  inhab. ;  on  the 
hin  lies  the  ruined  Wachttnhurg  or  Qeiertiburg ,  once  the  property 
of  the  Salic  dukes,  and  afterwards  that  of  the  Counts  Palatine,  de- 
stroyed In  1689.  The  handsome  country-houses  and  gardens  here 
belong  to  wealthy  wine-merchants.  To  the  left  lies  Font  f  Adler), 
a  village  which  yields  excellent  wine.  —  20  M.  Deidesheim  (Ooldene 
Kanne ;  wine  at  Weidlauft)  is  another  wine-producing  place  (2800 
inhab.)  and  the  residence  of  many  extensive  vineyard-proprietors. 
22  M.  Konigsbach,  with  large  sandstone-quarries.  —  23  M.  Afuas- 
bach  (Weisses  Ross ;  wine  at  Nauert's),  with  aluminium-works  and 
large  vineyards ;  on  the  hill  to  the  right  lie  the  long  villages  of 
Lobloch  and  Oimmeldingen  (Hammel,  very  fair,  with  view-terrace). 

26  M.  Neustadt^  see  below. 

36.  From  LndwigBhafen  to  WeisBonbarg  and 
Strassborg. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  385,  393. 

Railway  to  WeUimburg  (48  M.)  in  l«/4-2V«  b".  (fares  6  *#  20,  4  UT  10, 
2  .J  65  pf.;  express.  1  Jl  iQ  pf.  or  4  «#)>'  thence  to  (41  M.)  BrasMburg  in 
lV«-2  hrs.  (fares  6  UT  50,  3  UT  70,  2  UT  70  pf. ;  express  6UH0,  4  UT  30  pf.).  — 
The  quickest  through-route  to  Strassburg  is  vi&  Speyer,  see  R.  38. 

Ludwigshafen,  see  p.  278.  The  train  traverses  the  fertile  plain 
of  the  Rhine,  with  its  extensive  vineyards  and  fields  of  corn  and 
tobacco.  —  3  M.  Bheingonheim ;  5  M.  Mutter atadi. 

71/2  M.  Sohifferstadt,  the  junction  for  Speyer  (51/2  M.,  in  1/4  hr.), 
Germersheim,  and  Strassburg  (see  p.  296). 

The  train  approaches  the  Haardt  Mts.  —  IOV2  M.  BohUIggel- 
heim ;  12^2  M.  Hassloch ;  19  M.  Neustadt,  junction  for  the  lines  to 
Durkheim,  Alzey  (R.  35),  and  Kaiserslautern-Neunkirchen  (R.  37). 

Kenstadt  an  der  Haardt.  —  Hotels.  *Lowe,  near  the  station,  R.  2-3, 
B.  1,  D.  21/2  *#,  good  wine,  with  caf^-restaurant  5  Railwat  Hotel,  in  the 
Saalbau  (p.  ^),  with  restaurant  and  garden,  very  fair?  Lamm,  very  fair; 

PPALZEB  HOF. 

Beitauranti.  ^Railway  Restaurant;  Old  German  Wine  Rootnt^  Post- 
Strasse;  Alte  pfalt;  Waldmcmnsburg,  with  view;  Wiener  Ca/ii  Storch. 

United  States  Agent,  Serr  Leopold  Blum. 

Neustadt  (450  ft.),  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  valley  of  the 
Speyerbach;  the  largest  town  in  the  Haardt  district  (17,800  inhab.), 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


y  Google 


y  Google 


NEUSTADT.  36.  RouU.  289 

possesses  several  paper-millg,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  wine- 
trade.  (Palatinate  wines,  see  Introd.)  Near  the  station  is  the  Saalbau, 
a  Renaissance  edifice,  with  large  halls  for  balls  and  concerts,  a  hotel, 
and  a  restaurant  (see  p.  288).  The  handsome  Gothic  Abbey  Church, 
founded  in  1354  and  completed  in  1489,  contains  the  tombstones 
of  several  of  the  Counts  Palatine,  the  founders  of  Neustadt ;  the 
choir  is  used  by  Roman  Catholics,  the  nave  by  Protestants.  The 
Roman  Catholic  Ludwigs-Kirche,  a  modern  Gothic  church,  on  the 
left  bank  Jf  the  Speyerbach,  was  consecrated  in  1862.  In  the 
market-place  are  a  monumental  fountain  and  the  Stadthcms,  for- 
merly a  Jesuit  college  (1743).  A  house  opposite  has  a  carved 
wooden  balcony  of  1580.  The  Creche  in  the  Hetzel-Platz,  the  Nep- 
tune Fountain  in  the  Strohmarkt,  and  the  Hospital  in  the  S.E.  of 
the  town,  were  erected  by  Hr.  Hetzel,  a  banker,  to  whom  the  cit- 
izens have  erected  a  monument  to  the  N.  of  the  Saalbau.  The 
Maximilian-Str.  is  lined  with  handsome  villas. 

About  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  station  are  the  SeMtxenhatu  (restaurant), 
affording  a  good  view  of  Neustadt,  and  the  new  Realschuk.  Farther  on,  at 
about  the  same  height  above  the  valley,  opens  the  SchSnthal,  with  its 
beautiful  fountains  (restaurant)  ^  opposite  rises  the  Wolfsburg  (see  below). 
A  walk  through  the  Schonthal  brings  us  to  the  (^4  M.)  shady  Kaltenbrunner 
Thai,  which  begins  at  the  K8nig9-MUhU  (restaurant).  —  A  pleasant  path 
leads  past  the  (3  M.)  Kalte  Brunnen  and  through  the  Finster-Thal  (numerous 
finger-posts)  to  (2V2  hrs.)  the  Soh&nzel  (3020  ft.^  view-tower;  comp.  p.  290), 
in  defending  which  the  Prussian  General  von  Pfau  fell  in  1794.  Refresh- 
ments may  be  obtained  at  the  forester's  house.  Thence  through  the 
Triefen-Thal  to  Sdtnkpben  (p.  290;  3  hrs.),  or  through  the  shady  Hiltten- 
brunner-Thal  jgVz  hrs.)  or  vi&  Romberg  and  Albersweiler  (p.  369 }  3  hrs.)  to 
Annweiler  (p.  299). 

About  IVs  M.  to  the  "S.  of  Keustadt  lies  the  village  of  Haardt,  near 
which  rises  the  chateau  of  Wintingen^  or  ^Baardter  Schloss\  recently  re* 
built  in  the  French  Renaissance  style.  —  By  the  third  house  in  Haardt  is 
a  finger-post,  indicating  the  way,  leading  past  the  vineyards,  and  then  to 
the  right  by  the  Kai$eitDtg^  to  the  Wilhelms-PUtz  (2  K.  from  Neustadt), 
which  commands  a  superb  view  to  the  8.  A  zigaag  path  leads  hence  in 
40min.  to  Uie  tower  on  the  Weinbiet  (18!^  ft.;  always  (^[>en),  which  com- 
mands an  extensive  view.  Finger-posts  indicate  the  way  thence  to  the 
(25  min.)  Bergstein  (1260  ft.),  affording  a  beautiful  view  of  Neustadt,  the 
8peyerbach-Thal,  and  the  Schonthal.  From  the  Bergstein  we  proceed  to 
the  (40  min.)  ruin  of  Wof/tburg  and  thence  to  (40  min.)  Neustadt. 

Fkom  Neustadt  to  thk  Maxbdbo,  IV4  hr.  From  the  road  to  the  W. 
of  the  station  we  cross  the  viaduct  and  follow  the  road  to  the  S.  to 
Ober-Hambach  and  (2  H.)  Mittel-Hafnbaeh.  At  the  'EngeP  Inn  we  turn  to. 
the  right  and  after  B  min.  take  the  new  walk  to  the  left,  which  leads  to 
the  (12  min.)  saddle  behind  the  Haxburg.  A  much  preferable  route  ascends 
the  Bergstrasse  to  the  W.,  beyond  the  above-mentioned  viaduct;  after  200 
paces  we  ascend  a  path  to  the  left  to  (7  min.)  a  quarry,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  Neustadt.  A  finger-post  here  points  out  the  way  to  the  Nollen 
and  the  Hohe  Felsen^  whence  the  Maxburg  is  visible  (IV'2  hr.).  —  The  Max- 
burg,  or  Hambacher  JScMots,  formerly  called  the  Kestenburg  ('chestnut 
castle''),  is  conspicuouslv  situated  on  a  spur  of  the  Haardt,  1060  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  about  650  ft.  above  the  plain  (small  fee  to  the  custodian). 
The  handsome  chateau  was  re-erected  in  the  Gothic  style  by  Voit,  by 
order  of  King  liax  II.  of  Bavaria,  but  is  in  a  neglected  condition.  The 
mediaeval  castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Bmp.  Henry  II. 

A  steep  paUi  descends  from  the  Maxburg  by  Unter-Bambach  to  (Vs  hi') 
Diedes/ehi  and  (Vs  hr.)  the  railway-station  of  Maikammer  (p.  2S0).    —   Or 
BAKDKKKB'g  Rhine.   15th  Edit.  19^%OOgle 


290  ^uU36.  LANDAU.  From  Ludwigshafen 

from  the  Uaxbnrg  we  may  proceed  to  O/s  hr.)  the  village  of  Maikammer^ 
(1  hr.)  Edenkoberiy  (Vs  hr.)  Bhodt^  and  the  Villa  LuduHffMhdhe  (see  below). 

Nenstadt  is  a  terminal  station.  The  train  next  skirts  the  exten- 
sive vineyards  of  the  Haardt  district,  commanding  beaatifui  views, 
especially  by  morning-light.  —  22^2  M.  Maikammer  -  Kirrweiler 
CKail.  Restaurant,  yery  fair) ;  to  the  right  rises  the  Maxburg  (p.  289; 
1  hr.  from  here)  j  farther  distant  is  the  Kalmit  (2230  ft.),  with  a  view- 
tower  (2  hrs.  from  Nenstadt).  On  a  height  more  to  the  S.,  by  the 
village  of  St.  Martin^  are  the  ruins  of  the  Krop^urg, 

241/2  M.  Edenkoben  (^Ooldeneg  Schaf,  with  pleasant  garden, 
R.  1V2-^V2'  pens.  6  Jf,  very  fair;  Waldhaus,  at  the  month  of  the 
Edenkoben  Valley,  2  M.  from  the  station,  R.  from  i  JIf  20  pf.,  pens, 
from  4  Jf}j  a  cheerful  little  town  of  5200  inhab. ,  with  a  sulphur- 
spring,  is  much  frequented  for  the  grape-cure  in  autumn.  Near  the 
thriving  village  of  Rhodt,  3  M.  from  Edenkoben,  is  seen  the  royal 
Villa  LudwigshdhCj  built  by  King  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria  after  Gartner's 
designs  (charming  view),  above  which  rises  the  ruined  Riethurg  or 
Rippburg,  A  pleasant  route  leads  hence  through  the  BiUtenbruTmen- 
Thai  to  the  (3  hrs.)  Schantel  (p.  289). 

26  M.  Edesheim ;  28V2  M.  Knoringen,  The  train  crosses  the 
Queichj  which  formed  the  boundary  between  Alsace  and  the  Palatinate 
down  to  1815,  and  separates  the  Yosges  and  Haardt  Mts. 

3OV2  M.  Landau  (480  ft. ;  *Schwan ;  *KronprinZy  at  the  station, 
R.  &  B.  2i/4Jf;  Kbrber,  unpretending  but  good,  R.  1 V^"^,  !>•  ^<^ 
wine  2V2  Jf;  Rail.  Hotel),  a  town  with  15,900  inhab.  (1/2  Protes- 
tants), was  a  fortified  place  at  an  early  period.  In  the  Thirty  Years' 
War  and  in  the  wars  with  Louis  XIV.  it  was  frequently  besieged. 
From  1680  down  to  1815  it  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  French, 
after  which  it  was  annexed  to  Bavaria.  In  1871  the  fortifications  were 
removed.  In  front  of  the  Commandant's  Residence  is  the  Laitpold- 
hrunnen,  with  an  equestrian  statue  of  the  Prince  Regent  of  Bavaria 
(1892).  The  town  has  recently  much  extended  beside  the  W.  station. 

From  Landau  to  Germersheimy  see  p.  298. 

From  Landau  to  Annweiter  and  ZweibrUeJeeny  see  R.  39. 

About  5  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Landau  and  7  H.  to  the  S.W,  of  Edenkoben 
(diligence  daily  from  both,  in  IV4  and  2V»  hr«.>  is  the  village  of  Gleis- 
weiler  (1065  ft),  which  Ues  at  the  foot  of  the  TeufeUberg  (1980  ft. ;  view 
of  the  Vosges),  with  a  large  Bpdrcpathic  (whey,  grape,  and  koumiss  cures), 
which  caters  for  tourists  also.  —  Pleasant  walk  to  the  8.W.  to  the  ruin 
of  Sehar/eneek  (IVa  hr.),  or  to  the  W.  to  the  Oremiberg  (p.  299),  both  with 
fine  views. 

To  the  right  are  visible  the  Madenburg,  the  Trifels,  the  Mlinz- 
berg,  and  the  Rehberg  (comp.  p.  301).  —  34  M.  Insheim.  — 
35V2  M.  Rohrbach. 

Fboh  Bohbbach  to  KLiiroBNM unstbb  ,  6  M.,  railway  in  85  minutes. 
2Vz  M.  BiaigMm-MUhlho/en:  3  M.  Ingenheim-Appmho/en;  i'/s  M.  Ettngen- 
tieuehOheim.  —  Elingenmiinster  (Ocht)^  on  the  Klingbaeh,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Haardt,  had  a  Benedictine  eonvent,  founded  in  650  by  Dagobert  11., 
of  which  only  the  church  (rebuilt  in  1735)  remains.  Elingenmiinster  alflo 
cotifains  the  QX\^ji9iy t  Dittriet  Lwiatic  Atyhim.  Above  the  village  rises  the 
imposing  ruin  of  Landed.    The  tower  on  the   TrHieUkopf  affords  a  fine 


to  8tra$8hurg.  WBISSENBURG.  36,  RouU,   291 

view  of  the  mountains  of  the  Palatinate.  —  From  Klingenmnnster  we  mny 
go  on  to  MOnehweiUr  and  (S'/x  M.)  8ilt^  and  then  take  a  footpath  leading 
to  the  left  to  (IV4  hr.)  the  Lindelbrunner  Schlosa  (p.  301). 

38  M.  Winden,  junction  for  Maxau  and  Carlsruhe  (see  p.  361). 

Fboh  Winden  to  Bebgzabebn,  6  M.,  railway  in  Vs  hr.  (fares  80,  56, 
36  pf.).  —  Intermediate  stations:  Barhelroth-Oberhausen^  Kapellen-INeder- 
horbaeh,  —  Bergsabem  CiSeF^xel ,  E.  lVi-2,  pens.  4-6  .J;  Cwr-Hdtel;  Wilder 
Mann)^  a  town  of  2600  inhab.,  with  old  houses  («.  g.  Angel  Brewery)  and 
a  castle,  is  of  Koman  origin.  To  the  W.  (^(^  M.)  is  a  new  quarter,  with 
the  Holler  MUhle  (Gurhaus),  a  hydropathic,  and  several  pensions.  —  The 
Tillage  of  Dffrrehbaeh,  iVsM.  to  tUe  .S.,  has  an  old  Rathhaas  and  a  singolar 
fortitied  church.  To  the  W.  of  Dorrenbach  rises  the  Steffelsberg  (15b0  it. ; 
view).  —  Diligence  from  Bergzabern  once  daily  to  (17V«  M.)  Dahn  (p.  301) 
in  81/3  hrs. 

42^2  M.  8ehaxdt'8itinftld ;  45  M.  Kapsweytr,  the  last  Bavarian 
station.  —  The  train  enters  Alsace  and  crosses  the  Lauttr,  To  the 
left  are  the  Bienwald  and  the  Geisberg  (see  below).  —  The  inter- 
national through  express-trains  follow  a  loop-line  without  entering 
the  station  of  Weissenburg. 

48  M.  WeiBsenbnrg  (620  ft ;  Engel^  Schwan^  in  the  town,  very 
fair ;  H6t,  Germania,  Durr,  at  the  rail,  station),  a  very  ancient  town 
with  6900  inhab.,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  Merovingian 
kings,  was  the  seat  of  an  Independent  abbey,  founded  by  Dago- 
bert  II.,  down  to  1534.  Otfried,  author  of  a  poetic  harmony  of  the 
Gospels,  the  earliest  rhymed  German  poem  of  any  length,  was  a 
monk  here  about  860.  The  Abbey  Church  of  St,  Peter  and  St.  Paul 
is  a  noble  example  of  the  early-Gothic  style  (13th  cent.),  with  a 
tower  above  the  crossing  of  the  transept,  a  fine  portal,  and  a  beau- 
tiful chapel  opening  from  the  S.  transept  In  the  interior  are  line 
stained-glass  windows,  of  the  end  of  the  13th  (Romanesque ;  on 
the  S.  side),  and  of  the  14th  and  15th  centuries.  It  is  adjoined  on 
the  N.  side  by  handsome  Gothic  cloisters,  which  have  been  recently 
restored  and  contain  a  few  old  carvings  and  tombstones.  The 
Johannis-  Kirche,  partly  Romanesque  in  style,  and  many  of  the 
private  houses  are  also  interesting  edifices. 

On  4th  Aug..  1870,  part  of  the  Qerman  army  under  the  Crown  Prince 
of  Prussia  gained  a  decisive  victory  here  over  the  French  under  Abel  Douay. 
The  town,  defended  by  a  simple  wall,  and  the  Oeisberg,  2  M.  to  ihe  S., 
were  occupied  by  the  French,  but  were  attacked  by  Prussians  from  the  E. 
and  Bavarians  from  the  N.,  and  both  taken  after  a  severe  struggle.  In 
order  to  form  an  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  ground,  the  traveller  should 
follow  the  Lauterburg  road,  turn  to  the  right  about  1  M.  from  the  station, 
cross  the  railway,  and  proceed  by  a  footpath  to  the  (V4  M.)  OutUuthof  and 
the  (V4  M.)  chateau  of  Oeisberg^  now  a  farm-house  (rfmts.),  round  which  the 
struggle  was  very  hotly  contested.  Fine  view  from  the  terrace  on  the  E, 
side.  Douay  fell  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  on  the  way  to  which  numerous 
graves  of  the  fallen  are  passed.  The  traveller  may  now  return  by  the 
Hagenau  road  on  the  W.  side,  a  round  of  2-2V«  hrs.  in  all.  Vs^ous 
monuments  have  been  erected  on  the  battlefield. 

About  8  M.  from  Weissenburg  a  footpath  (red  and  white  marks), 
diverging  to  the  right  from  the  Bitseh  road,  ascends  in  1/2  hr.  to  the 
view>tower  on  the  top  of  the  Seherhohl  (1660  ft.).  From  the  top  we  de- 
scend  to  the  left  and  regain  the  road  near  the  7th  kilometre-stone.  Thence 
we  may  follow  the  footpaths  running  parallel  with  the  road  vi&  Klein- 
Wingen  and  Klimbach  to  the  Fleckenstein  and  the  Wegelnbu^  (p.  301). 

19* 


292  Rouuae.  hagenau. 

Fbom  Wbissbhburq  to  Lautbbbuso  (p.  998),  13  M.,  branch-railway  in 
'/<  hr.,  via  BehleitTud,  Salmbaehy  Niederlauterbach^  and  8eh$ibenhard» 

On  quitting  Weissenburg  the  train  describes  a  circuit  round  the 
Geisberg,  and  passes  stations  Ritdsdz^  Hunspach,  and  Hofen. 

58  M.  8ul%  witerm  Wold  (Rossle))  the  headquarters  of  the 
Grown  Prince  of  Prussia,  commander  of  the  Third  German  Army, 
on  Aug.  5-6th,  1870.  —  At  Lohsann,  Ftehtlhtonn^  and  Schwab' 
weiUfy  near  Sulz,  petroleum  and  asphalt  are  obtained.  —  The  line 
now  traverses  part  of  the  Forest  of  Hagenau^  which  is  45,000  acres 
in  extent. 

6372  M.  Walburg,  with  a  line  church  of  the  15th  century. 
Branch-line  to  {6^/%  M.)  Worth  (see  below),  vl&  BibUsheimj  Durrer^ 
baehy  and  Morsbronn, 

Morsbronn  and  Worth  are  the  best  starting-points  for  a  visit  to  the 
Battlefield  of  Aug.  6th,  1870.  —  The  neighboorhood  of  Mor^otm  was  the 
scene  of  the  attack  of  the  11th  Prossian  Army  Corps  and  of  the  gallant 
onset  (about  1  p.m.)  of  the  French  cavalry,  which  certainly  covered  the 
retreat  of  the  infantry,  but  resulted  in  the  destruction  of  the  whole  brigade 
of  horse.  The  Germans  then  pressed  forward  and  occupied  the  village  of 
£{«at«Aa«(Mri(3p.m.)t  which  they  afterwards  maintained  against  the  attempts 
of  the  French  to  retake  it  The  battlefield  is  now  studded  with  monuments, 
the  finest  of  which  is  the  *Statue  of  Emp.  Frtderiek^  by  Max  Baumbach, 
near  JHe/enbach  (best  view  of  the  battlefield).  Kear  Elsasshausen  is  the 
^MacMahon  Tree%  where  the  French  marshal  had  his  stand  during  most 
of  the  battle. 

The  little  town  of  W6rth  ( Weu$e$  Rosm^  fair;  old  Roman  altar  in  front 
of  the  Gemeindehaus),  which  has  given  its  name  to  the  battle,  contains 
1060  inhab..  and  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Sauer.  The  Germans  found  it 
unoccupied  by  the  French,  and  at  once  took  possession  of  it  (7  a.m.),  sueoess- 
fully  resisting  all  attempts  to  dislodge  them.  Their  efforts,  however,  to 
storm  the  strong  position  held  by  the  French  on  the  heights  of  Fr5seh- 
weiler  were  in  vain,  until  the  success  of  the  Prussians  at  Morsbronn  made 
its  influence  felt  on  the  French  right  wing.  Frftschweiler  (Jdarer-Zusammen* 
hunft ,  fair^,  the  centre  of  the  French  position ,  with  the  headquarters  of 
MacMahon,  was  attacked  from  all  sides  almost  simultaneously  and  captured 
between  4  and  6  p.m.  Those  of  the  French  who  escaped  death  or  capture 
effected  a  disorderly  retreat  towards  (2  M.)  Beiehshofen  (p.  814).  The 
church  of  Frdschweiler  was  destroyed,  but  a  new  one,  the  tower  of  which 
overlooks  the  whole  of  the  battlefield,  has  been  built.  The  largest  French 
monument  stands  to  the  K.  of  the  road  from  W5rth  to  Frdschweiler.  — 
€k>mp.  the  Map. 

6872  M.  Hagenaa  (^Europaischer  Hof,  with  garden ;  Post ;  AndreSj 
all  near  the  station ;  BaiL  Restaurant^  fair),  with  18,(}00  inhab.,  was 
once  a  free  town  of  the  German  Empire  and  a  fortress,  the  works 
of  which  are  partly  preserved.  The  walls  were  erected  by  Emp. 
Frederick  I.  in  1164.  The  palace  built  by  the  same  emperor,  after- 
wards a  favourite  residence  of  the  Hohenstaufen,  was  burned  by 
the  French  in  1678.  Part  of  the  oonspiouous  Church  of  8t.  George 
dates  from  the  12th  century.  The  choir  contains  a  huge  wooden 
figure  of  Christ,  executed  in  1488.  The  fine  candelabrum  of  the 
13th  cent.,  and  the  modem  stained  glass  also  deserve  attention.  — 
To  the  E.  of  the  town  and  S.  of  the  Hagenauer  Wald  He  the  artil- 
lery-ranges. —  Railway  to  Saargemund,  Metz,  and  Scuirbrucken, 
see  pp.  314,  315. 

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KAISERSLAUTERN.  37.  RouU.   293 

71  M.  Marienthal,  with  a  nunnery,  dissolved  in  1789;  73  M. 
BischxveiUTf  with  cloth-mann factories  (branch-line  to  Oherhofen, 
gee  p.  298).  The  train  now  crosses  the  Zom.  —  73^2  M.  Kurzen" 
hausen;  75V2  M.  Weyersheim;  79  M.  Hordt. 

83  M.  Vender^eim,  jnnction  for  the  Saarburg-Zabern  line(R.  42). 
Then  several  unimportant  villages,  near  whloh  are  some  of  the 
outworks  of  Strassbnrg.  —  89  M.  Strassburg,  see  p.  302. 

37.  From  Mannheim  (Ludwigshafen)  to  Nennkirchen. 

72  M.  Railway  (PfdUUche  Eisenbahn)  in  2V4-4  brfl. :  fares  9  *#  30, 
6  Ur  30,  4  uriO  pf.  (express  11  UT  20,  7  ^  60  pf.,  5  Jl). 

The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  the  Railway  Bridge  (p.  278), 
which  affords  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  the  river,  to  (2  M.)  Ludwigs- 
hafen  (p.  278).   Thence  to  (21  M.)  Keustadt,  see  p.  288. 

Neustadt  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Diirkheim  (R.  35)  and  to 
Landau  (R.  36).  —  The  Saarbriicken  line  now  enters  the  mountain 
district  of  the  Westrich,  For  an  hour  the  train  winds  up  the  beautiful 
wooded  ravine  of  the  Speyerhach^  and  penetrates  the  variegated 
sandstone  rocks  by  means  of  12  tunnels.  Beyond  Neustadt,  on  a 
hill  to  the  right,  stand  the  red  ruins  of  the  Wolfsburg. 

25  M.  Lanibrecht  -  Orevenhausen  (Pfalzer  Hof,  very  fair) ,  two 
villages  (3600  inhab.)  founded  by  Walloon  emigrants,  with  extensive 
Qloth-factories.  About  IV4M.  farther  on,  at  Frankeneck,  a  paper- 
making  village,  the  valley  divides.  The  branch  to  the  left,  through 
which  flows  the  Speyerbach,  is  named  the  Elmateiner'  Thai ;  that  to 
the  right  is  named  the  Frankensteiner-Thal,  and  is  watered  by 
the  Hoehapeyerbach.   The  train  ascends  the  latter. 

Farther  on,  on  a  height  to  the  right,  are  the  ruins  of  Neidenf els. 
29  M.  Weidtnthal,  with  two  new  churches.  —  32  M.  Frankenstein 
(Haffen),  one  of  the  most  picturesque  points  in  the  valley,  with  the 
ruins  of  a  castle  of  that  name,  beneath  which  the  line  passes.  On 
the  right  are  the  Teufelsleiter,  and  in  a  sequestered  side-valley, 
also  to  the  right,  the  ruin  of  Diemerstein. 

Prom  Lambrecht  (3  hrs.),  from  Weidenthal  (2  hrs.),  or  from  Franken' 
stein  (2  hrs.)  we  may  visit  the  Drachenfds  (1830  ft.),  commanding  a  fine 
view ;  ^U  hr.  below  the  top  is  the  Sieg/riedtbrunnen.  Thence  to  Diirkheim, 
by  the  Hartenburg  (4  hra.)  or  vii  the  Limbnrg  (3  hrs.),  see  p.  287. 

35  M.  Hochspeyer  (876  ft.),  the  highest  station  on  the  line,  is  the 
junction  for  the  Alsenz-Bahn  to  Kreuznach  (see  p.  170).  The  line 
penetrates  the  Heiligenberg  (watershed)  by  a  tunnel  1485  yds.  long. 

42  M.  Kalserslantern  (775ft. ;  *Schwan,  R.  from  2,  B.  1 ,  D.  2 1/2  Jfi 
Karlsberg,  R.  2-3V2,  B.  8/4,  D.  2  ^;  Kraffi,  R.  lV2-l^/4,  B.  8/4,  D., 
incl.  wine,  2^/2  Jf;  Post;  Railway  Hotet)^  one  of  the  chief  towns 
in  the  Palatinate,  situated  in  the  hilly  tract  of  the  Westrich,  with 
48,300  inhab.,  and  considerable  spinning  factories,  iron-works,  and 
breweries,  was  once  a  residence  of  Emp.  Frederick  Barbarossa,  who 
erected  a  magnificent  palace  here  in  1153,    The  building  was  de* 


294  Route  37,  LANDSTUHL. 

stroyed  daring  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  and  the  site  is  now 
occupied  by  a  house  of  correction.  The  Protestctnt  Church  with  its 
three  towers  owes  its  foundation  to  the  same  monarch,  hut  in  its 
present  form  belongs  to  the  13th  and  14th  centuries.  It  contains 
a  marble  monument  in  memory  of  the  union  of  the  Protestant 
churches  by  Knoll,  with  an  allegorical  figure  and  the  statues  of 
Luther  and  Calyin  (1883).  The  Provincial  ATtMeum,  a  fine  building 
in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  with  interesting  collections,  is  open 
daily,  except  Frid.,  10-12  and  2-4  (adm.  50,  on  Sun.  20  ptl 

Fbom  Kaisebslaxjtebn  to  Staudebnhbim,  85  M.,  railway  in  2V4  brs. 
(fares  3  «#  10  pf. ,  2  Jf).  From  the  staUon  of  (5Vi  H.)  Lan^^erttmUhle  a 
diligence  plies  thrice  daily  in  Vs  hr.  to  (2Vs  H.)  Otterherg^  with  a  Cister- 
cian abbey  founded  in  11^4  and  now  suppressed.  The  abbey-church,  an 
imposing  structure  in  the  Transition  style,  was  probably  completed  in 
1225.  —  15VsH.  WolfiMn^  at  the  foot  of  the  JI9n^«&«r^  (1780  ft.;  ancient 
tombs,  remains  of  Boman  buildings).  On  the  left  are  the  ruins  of  Neu- 
wolfsteiny  built  by  Rudolph  I.  in  1275,  and  of  the  former  imperial  castle  of 
Altwolfstein.  ^  21  M.  Lauterecken.  Diligence  hence  once  daily  in  7%  br.  to 
(3  M.)  Offenbach  am  Glan  (OeHaeK,  Schmtm,  both  fair),  the  *Abbey  Church 
of  which  is  one  of  the  roost  important  examples  of  the  Transition  style. 
Of  the  original  edifice,  which  was  built  about  1170-90,  only  the  choir,  the 
transepts,  and  two  side-apses  like  chapels  now  remain.  —  23  M.  Medard; 
26  H.  Odenbai^.  —  30  M.  MeUeiiheim,  and  thence  to  Statidemheim,  see  p.  171. 

Beyond  Kaiserslautern  the  line  runs  near  the  ^Kaiserstrasse*,  a 
road  constructed  by  Napoleon,  and  skirts  the  lAmdstuhUr  Bruch,  an 
extensive  moor  at  the  base  of  wooded  hills.  —  49  M.  Kindsbach, 

51  M.  Landitohl  (Ooldener  Engel,  in  the  town,  R.  i^l4r%  D. 
1  ^2  •^v  ^Itb  large  garden  and  the  Siikingen  HydropathiCy  pens.  4-6  »4f  ; 
Schlon9-H6tely  R.  IVa-^t  Pens.  41/2*^,  also  with  a  Hydropathic,  in 
the  forest ;  Burgard^  at  the  station),  a  small  town  with  4200  inhab., 
was  once  a  seat  of  the  SidLingen  family,  whose  castle,  with  its  huge 
walls,  25  ft.  thick,  lies  in  ruins  above  the  town.  Franz  von  Sickingen 
(p.  169)  was  besieged  here  by  the  Electors  of  the  Palatinate  and 
Treves  in  1523 ,  and  lost  his  life  by  the  falling  of  a  beam.  His 
remains  were  interred  in  a  vault  under  the  church,  but  the 
monument  erected  to  his  memory  was  destroyed  by  the  French. 
Another  has  recently  been  erected  by  Frelherr  von  Stumm  of  Neun- 
kirchen,  and  the  paths  about  the  castle  have  been  repaired.  Keys 
at  the  forester's.  Fine  points  in  the  environs  are  the  Fleiachhacker's 
Lochy  Kohlenberg  (view-tower),  and  Bdrenloch  (a  round  of  272-3  hrs.). 

Fbom  Lanostdhl  to  Eusel,  18  M.,  branch-railway  in  l>/r>3  hrs.  (fares 
1  «#  60,  iJHO  pf.).  The  line  intersects  the  Landstuhler  Bruch  (see  above). 
3M.  Ranutein;  5H.  Steinvenden;  7  M.  Niedermohr.  At(8s/4M.)  Glan-Mnneh-^ 
teeiler  the  attractive  valley  of  the  Glan  is  entered,  and  followed  vi&  RBhtBMtry 
Eisenhach-Mattenbaehy  and  Theubergstegen  to  (15  M.)  Altenglan.  The  line 
then  turns  in  a  sharp  angle  towards  the  W.,  and  enters  ttie  Kuseler-Thal.  •— 
Kuael  (Mairuer  Ho/  or  Posth  a  busy  town  of  3100  inhab.,  with  cloth  and 
other  factories.    In  the  neighbourhood  are  large  syenite  quarries. 

54V2  M.  HaupUtuhl;  57  M.  Bruchmuhlbach. -^  ^  M.  Homburg 
(795  ft. ;  DummUry  very  fair),  a  small  town  with  4800  Inhabitants. 
About  172  ^>  to  ^^e  ^•^'  is  the  ruined  castle  of  CarUberg  ,  built 
in  i780  and  destroyed  by  tl^e  French  in  1793.       GooqIc 


y  Google 


y  Google 


SPEYER.  38.R0UU,  295 

Fbom  Hombuko  to  ZwhibbCckbh,  7  H.,  railway  in  V«  lir.  —  Keir  (4  K.) 
Sehwarsenacker  is  the  former  convent  of  WeruhweUer.  From  (5  M.)  Einifd  tq 
Saarbriicken  and  Saargemflnd,  see  p.  800.  —  7  M.  ZwfibrOekeny  see  p.  300. 

Beyond  (68  M.)  Bexbaeh  the  line  enters  a  productiYe  coal-district 
In  Prussia.   69V2  M.  WelleaweiUr.  —  72  M.  Neunkirchen  (p.  173). 

38.  From  Lndwigshafen  to  Speyer,  Lanterborg, 
and  Strassborg. 

81  M.  From  Lndwigsbafen  to  (46  M.)  Lautirhurg^  ordinary  train  in 
3-3  hrs.  (fares  5  uT  45,  3  UT  45.  2  UT  60  pf.);  thence  to  (85  M.)  Sirattthurg  in 
I'A-S  hr.4.  (fares  A  •#  50  pf.,  8  •#,  2  Ji).  —  Express  from  Lndwigshafen 
to  Strassbarg  in  2  hro.  (fares  12  UTIO,  8  UT  60,  6  UT  10  pf  ). 

From  Ludwigthafen  to  (71/2  M.)  Schifferstadt,  see  p.  288.  The 
line  to  Speyer  diverges  here  to  the  left  from  the  Landaallne  (R.  36). 

13  M.  Speyer.  —  Railway  Stationa.  The  Central  Stat'on  (PI.  A,  1) 
is  about  «/i  X-  ^I'om  tbe  cathedral,  to  which  the  road  leads  in  a  straight 
direction*,  the  Rhenish  Station  of  the  Schwetzingen  line  (PI.  £,  8)  is  only 
V4  M.  ftom  the  cathedral.  —  Omnibus  into  the  town,  30  pf. 

Hotels.  ^WiTTSLSBACREB  HoF  (PI.  a;  0,  4),  Ludwig-Str.  40,  B.  2-8  Jf^ 
with  garden-restaurant;  Bhxihisghbb  Hof  (PI.  b  ;  B,8),  Maximilian-Str.  44, 
rery  fair,  B.  IV4-21/4.  D.  2Vs  Jfi  Pfalzbb  Hof  (PI.  c;  G,  3),  Maximilian- 
Strasse  13 ,  B.  2-3  UlT ,  D.  with  wine  2  UlT  7D  pf.,  well  spoken  of;  Emgel, 
near  the  Altportel  (PI.  B,  8),  second-class. 

Restanrantg.  Deutsche  Oambrinus,  both  opposite  the  station ;  Sonne^ 
Kaximilian-Str. ;  Zum  Nmtm  Storchen,  facing  the  Altpdrtel  (p.  298)  — 
Wine  at  Sick's,  Konigs-Platz.  —  Oafea.  Waibel^  by  the  Altportel;  Obern- 
dor/ery  Maxfmilian-Str. 

Speyer,  or  Spires  (325  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate, 
lies  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  at  the  influx  of  the  Speyerbaeh, 
Pop.  21,000  (2/5  Prot.). 

Speyer  was  the  Boman  Augusta  Ifemetum,  became  an  episcopal  see  in 
the  4th  cent.,  and  was  frequenUy  the  residence  of  the  German  emperors. 
The  city  prospered  greatly  under  the  Salic  emperors,  who  repeatedly  granted 
privileges  to  the  loyal  inhabitants,  embellished  the  old  palace,  and  built 
the  celebrated  cathedral,  which  was  regarded  as  the  burial-church  of  the 
German  emperors  for  nearly  five  centuries.  As  a  free  city  of  the  empire 
(from  1294  onwards)  Speyer  enjoyed  a  high  reputation.  Of  the  numerous 
imperial  diets  held  here  the  most  important  was  that  of  1529,  under 
Charles  V.,  after  which  the  princes  and  estates  who  had  espoused  the 
eause  of  the  Beformation  received  the  name  of  Protestants^  from  their 
protest  against  the  resolution  of  the  hostile  minority  (comp.  p.  397).  The 
city  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689,  and  has  only  recently  begun  to 
prosper  again.  —  Edward  VII.  of  England  is  said  to  have  first  met  his 
future  wife  in  Speyer  Cathedral. 

The  ^Cathedral  (PI.  D,  3),  the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is 
open  9-11  a.m.,  and  2-6  (in  winter  2-4)  p.m. ;  admission  to  the 
choir  and  crypt,  and  to  the  whole  cathedral  out  of  hours,  by  tickets 
only  (35  pf.),  obtained  from  the  sacristan.  The  old-German  altar- 
piece  and  the  cartoons  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Catharine  are  shown  for 
a  fee  of  50  pf.  fseveral  pers.  25  pf.  each^.  —  The  cathedral  was 
founded  in  1030  by  Conrad  II.  (d.  1039),  continued  by  his  son 
Henry  HI.  (d.  1056),  and  practically  finished  by  his  grandson 
Henry  IV.  (d.  1106).   The  restorations  necessiuted  b^  the  ilres  of 

«d  by  Google 


296  Route  38.  SPEYER.  From  Ludwigshafen 

1137,  1169,  1281,  and  1450  acarcely  modifled  the  original  character 
of  the  building.  On  31st  May,  1689,  the  town  and  the  cathedral 
were  ravaged  with  fire  and  sword  by  the  hirelings  of  *his  most 
Christian  majesty*  Louis  XIY.,  under  -Louvois,  Montclar,  and 
M^ac.  After  the  restoration  by  the  Wurzburg  architect  Neumann 
(1772-84),  the  church  was  once  more  subjected  to  devastation  on 

10th-20tii  Jan.,  1794,  and 
was  converted  into  a  maga- 
zine. It  was  not  till  1822 
that  it  was  at  length  restored 
to  its  sacred  purposes.  The 
Kaiser-Halle,  or  vestibule, 
with  its  three  portals  and 
large  rose-window,  was  er- 
ected hyHubach  in  1854-58 
in  place  of  Neumann's  fa- 
cade, while  the  W.  towers 
(240  ft.)  were  completed  on 
the  model  of  the  E.  towers. 
The  church  is  a  simple, 
but  vast  and  imposing  Ro- 
manesque basilica ,  with 
nave,  aisles,  transepts,  two 
domes ,  and  four  towers. 
Length  147  yds.,  length  of 
transept  60  yds.,  breadth  of 
nave  15  yds.,  height  of  nave 
105  ft.  The  handsome  arcade 
at  the  top  runs  round  the 
whole  building.  (The  visitor 
should  walk  round  this  ar- 
cade and  ascend  the  tower ; 
sexton  75  pf.) 

In  the  Kaiser-Halle  are 
niches  of  gilded  mosaic,  in 
which  stand  sandstone  statues  of  the  emperors  buried  in  the  church. 
The  four  reliefs  are  by  Pilt:  Conrad  laying  the  foundation  of  the 
cathedral;  Rudolph  and  the  priest  with  the  host^  Rudolph  receiving  the 
tidings  of  his  election  to  the  throne;  the  same  emperor  taking  the  cross 
from  the  altar  in  default  of  a  sceptre  at  his  coronation  at  Aix-)a-Chapelle. 
Over  the  principal  inner  portal  is  represented  the  dedication  of  the  church 
to  the  Virgin,  on  the  left  St.  Bernard  and  St.  Stephen,  on  the  right  John 
the  Baptist  and  the  painter  Schraudolph. 

The  ♦Intbriok  is  adorned  with  32  large  ♦Febscobs,  by  Johann 
Schraudolph  and  his  pupils  (1845-53),  representing  Old  Testament 
events  prophetic  of  the  Redemption,  scenes  from  the  lives  of  Christ, 
the  Madonna,  and  St.  Bernard  of  Olalrvaux,  and  numerous  single 
figures  of  prophets  and  saints. 

In  the  Kings'  Ghoib,  on  broad  pedestals,  are  two  larsa  statues: 

Digitized  by  VjOOv  IC 


to  Strasshurg,  SPEYEIl.  38.  Route,   297 

?ight,  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  (d.  1291),  in  Tyrolese  marble,  by 
Schwantbaler,  in  a  sitting  posture;  left,  Adolph  of  Nassau  (d.  1298; 
see  below),  in  sandstone,  by  Ohnmacht,  in  a  kneeling  position.  On 
tbe  right  and  left  of  the  approach  to  the  principal  choir  two  RdiefSy 
formerly  in  the  crypt,  are  built  into  the  walls,  each  containing 
likenesses  of  four  emperors  and  bearing  ancient  inscriptions.  — 
The  Ohapbl  of  St.  Apba  was  built  in  1097-1103,  but  was  after- 
wards altered.  The  body  of  Emp.  Henry  IV.  lay  here  unburied 
from  1106  to  1111,  when  the  papal  excommunication  was  revoked. 
—  The  Baptistbby,  in  the  S.  aisle,  dates  from  the  12th  century. 
Above  it  (entrance  from  the  S.  transept)  is  the  Chapbl  of  St.  Ca- 
tharine, originally  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  but  almost  entirely 
rebuilt  in  1857 ;  it  contains  the  cartoons  for  Schraudolph's  frescoes 
and  an  early-German  altar-piece  (adm.,  see  p.  295). 

The  Ckypt  beneath  the  choir  and  the  transept,  restored  in 
1857,  belongs  in  its  entirety  to  the  old  building ,  consecrated  in 
1039,  and  contains  the  entrance  to  the  Emperors'  Tomb,  which  wa^ 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  In  1900  careful  researches  were 
made,  and  the  imperial  vault  is  now  in  course  of  reconstruction.  The 
bones  of  the  buried  monarchs  are,  as  far  as  possible,  to  be  replace^ 
in  their  old  positions,  and  the  relics  brought  to  light  (includinff 
copper  funereal  crowns,  fragments  of  clothes,  a  sapphire  ring,  and 
a  cross  of  Henry  IV.)  are  to  be  exhibited  to  the  public. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  royal  personages  buried  in  this  cathedral: 
Emp.  Conrad  JI.  fd.  10559)  and  his  wife  GUela  (d.  1048)^  Heni-y  III.  (d.  1056); 
Eew-V  IV.  (d.  1106)  and  his  wife  Beriha  (d.  1087);  Hwry  V.  (d.  1125),  the 
last  of  the  Salic  line ;  Beatrice  (d.  1184),  wife  of  Frederick  Barbarossa,  and 
their  daughter  Agnes;  Pliilip  of  Swabia  (d.  120S);  Rudolph  of  Hapiburg 
(d.  1291),  whose  tombstone  has  heen  preserved;  and  the  rival  monarchs, 
Adolph  of  Na»9au  (d.  1298)  and  Albert  I.  of  Austria  (d.  1303;  p.  286). 

The  ancient  Chitbohyabd  (PI.  D,  3)  is  now  a  promenade,  where 
a  military  band  plays  on  summer-evenings.  Opposite  the  N.E. 
uomer  of  the  church  is  the  Domnapf  or  cathedral  bowl,  a  large 
vessel  of  sandstone,  once  marking  the  boundary  between  the  episcopal 
and  civic  jurisdiction.  Every  new  bishop  was  obliged,  after  binding 
himself  to  respect  the  liberties  of  the  town,  to  fill  the  Napf  with 
wine,  which  was  then  drunk  to  his  health  by  the  townspeople.  The 
fragments  of  the  *  Mount  of  Olives^  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral,  con- 
structed in  1511,  are  the  sole  remains  of  the  cloisters,  which  were 
built  in  1437-44  and  destroyed  at  the  end  of  the  18th  century.  — 
Among  the  trees  to  the  S.E.  of  the  choir  rises  the  Heiden-Thiirmchen 
(Heathens'  Tower;  PI.  E,  3),  the  substructure  of  which  may  be  of 
Koman  origin.  It  belonged  to  the  town-wall  built  in  1080  by  Bishop 
Kudger.  —  A  good  view  of  the  cathedral- choir  is  obtained  from  the 
bank  of  the  Rhine,  below  the  bridge-of-boats. 

The  devastations  of  the  French  have  left  few  notable  buildings 
of  antiquity  at  Speyer.  An  unsightly  wall  by  the  Protestant  church 
preserves  the  name  of  the  ancient  Retscher  (PI.  9 ;  C,  D,  3),  an  im- 
perial palace  where  the  diets  were  held.  The  *Judenhad\  in  a  small 


298  BouU  38,  GERMERSHEIM. 

garden  at  the  end  of  the  Jndengasse  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  dates  from  the 
early  13th  cent,  (key  at  the  town-hall).  The  fine  old  gate-tower,  at 
the  W.  end  of  the  Maximilian  -  Strasse ,  is  named  the  Altporiel 
(PI.  B,  3).  Adjacent  is  the  new  'ProUitations-Kirche'  (PI.  A,  4), 
a  cniclform  building  in  the  Gothic  style,  erected  to  commemorate 
the  Diet  of  1529  (p.  296). 

The  ♦Museum  of  Provincial  Antiquities  (PI.  8;  B,  2)  is  in  the 
building  of  the  Real-Schule.   Adm.  50  pf  (Snn.,  2-4,  free). 

Tbe  first  three  rooms  to  the  right  contain  the  Natwal  ffitiorp  Collee- 
Hon$.  —  Next  come  two  rooms  with  Ftctutu,  mostly  of  Netherlandish 
origin  and  of  little  value.  —  Antiquities,  Booh  I.  Roman  AtUiquitiet,  in- 
duding  glass,  weapons,  bronzes  (*Bust,  perhaps  of  Germanicus;  "Head  of 
a  Centaur,  a  Oreek  original,  ca  B.C.  30u),  and  numerous  *8igillata  Vases. 

—  Room  II.  Smaller  Roman  antiquities.  Ca'>inei  o/  Coin.  —  Room  HI. 
Views  of  Sjpeyer;  representations  of  h'storical  events  in  the  Palatinate.  — 
Room  IV.  Coins;  Roman  pottery ;  painted  stone  plaqaes,  with  the  Virgin 
and  Apostles  (Speyer,  1>to).  —  Room  V.  Prehiitorie  AvtiquUiet,  including 
objects  in  gold  and  bronze.  Alemannian  and  Frank  thAnHquUie*.  —  Room  VI. 
Mirrors;  M^8. ;  incunabula*  —  Room  VII.  Aa«ient  views  of  Speyer,  the 
cathedral,  etc. :  marble  bust  by  VenchaffeU  (d.  1798).  —  Room  VIII.  Library. 

—  GoBBiDOB  IX,  Wooden  model  of  Speyer  in  1680.  Frankenthal  china.  — 
CoERiooB  X.  Prehistoric  dng-out\  found  in  the  bed  of  the  Rhine.  Banners. 
French  weapons  of  1870-71.  —  To  the  left  are  two  more  rooms  with  pictures 
and  the  Heydenreich  Collection  (porcelain  and  tapestrjj 

In  the  basement  is  the  LapidatHum,  with  Roman  milestones,  tombstones, 
and  votive  stones.  —  On  the  B.  side  of  the  building  are  two  Roman  eqres> 
trian  statues.  

From  Speyer  the  railway  proceeds  past  Berghauaen ,  Heiligen" 
stein,  and  Lingenfeld  to  (22  M.)  Germersheim  (Satm)^  an  old  town 
(5900inhab.)  at  the  confluence  of  the(?tteicft(p.299)  andtheRbine, 
fortified  since  1835.    Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  died  here  in  1291. 

Fbom  Gbhmbbshbim  to  Landao,  ism.,  railway  in  Vs-V*  hr.  Stations: 
Westheim,  Lustadt,  Zeisham^  Hochstadtj  and  Dreihof.  Landau,  see  p.  290.  — 
To  Bruehsal,  see  p.  352. 

25  M.  Sondemheim ;  28  M.  Bellheim ;  3072  M.  BulzUim ;  33  V2  M. 
Rheintdbemj  on  the  Erlenbach ;  35  M.  Jockgrim, 

39  M.  Worth,  the  junction  of  the  Carlsruhe  and  Landau  line 
(p.  361).  41  M.  Hagenbach;  43  M.  Neuhurg ;  45  M.  Berg,  The 
train  then  crosses  the  Lanier,  which  forms  the  boundary  between 
the  Bavarian  Palatinate  and  Alsace. 

46  M.  Lanterbnrg  CB^ume;  was  once  fortified,  and  is  frequently 
mentioned  In  the  annals  of  the  old  wars  between  the  French  and 
Germans.  The  Rathhaus  contains  a  Roman  altar.  Branch-line  to 
Weissenburg,  see  p.  292. 

49  M.  Mothern;  53  M.  Selz,  with  a  Gothic  chapel,  the  Junction 
of  a  line  to  Walburg  (p.  292).  —  58  M.  Boschwoog,  junction  of 
the  strategic  railway  to  Rastatt  and  Carlsruhe  (p.  279),  continued 
towards  the  W.  to  H  -genau  and  Obermodem  (p.  3il6). 

62  M.  Sesenheim  (Ochs,  weU  spoken  of;  Krone) ^  the  scene  of 
Goethe*8  Intimacy  with  Frederica  Brion  (1770-71). 

The  church  and  parsonage  have  since  been  rebuilt.  The  wooded  hill 
with  the  arboor  in  which  Goethe  and  Frederica  used  to  converse  has  been 


ANNWEILER.  39.  Route.  299 

purchased  by  a  number  of  the  poet's  admirers,  and  the  arbour  has  been 
renewed.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  church  are  the  tombstones  of  Fred  erica's 
parents  (comp.  p.  376).  In  the  church  Is  the  bench  on  which  Goethe,  by 
Frederica's  side,  *found  a  somewhat  dry  sermon  none  too  long\ 

65  m.  Vrusenheim;  68  M.  Herlisheim,  on  the  Zom;  70  M. 
Oambaheim,  with  an  old  chapel;  74  M.  Wanzenau^  with  Fort  Fran- 
secky ;  79  M.  Bischheim.  —  ol  M.  Strassburg  (p.  302). 


39.   From  Landau  to  Zweibrucken.    The  Vosgea  of 
the  Palatmate. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  292. 
Fbom  Landau  to  Z weibbdcken,  45  M. ,  railway  in  1V4-3V4  hrs.  (fares,  2nd  cl. 
8  UT  80,  3rd  cl.  2  ur  45  pf.,  express-fares  1st  cl.  6  UT  50,  2nd  cl.  4  UT  70  pf.). 

Landau^  see  p.  290.  The  train  stops  at  the  W.  station,  and 
then  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Queichy  which  soon  contracts,  -r- 
38/4  M.  Godramsttin.  From  (5  M.)  Siebeldingen  (Adler)  a  road  leads 
via  Birhweiler,  Ransbachj  and  Leinsweiler  to  (S^/2  M.)  Eschbach,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Madenburg  (p.  800).  —  6V4  M.  Albersweiler.  Abont 
31/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  is  the  village  of  Eusserthal,  with  aRomanesq|ie 
Cistercian  church  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  13th  century.  The 
Orenaberg  (1915  ft),  31/2  M.  to  the  N.,  is  a  good  point  of  view. 

91/2 M.  Annweiler(590ft.;  Sehwan,  R.  lV2-2j  pens.  iJf,  very 
fair;  Rehbergj  similar  prices,  both  with  gardens),  a  small  and  ancient 
town  of  3700  inhab.  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Queich  (the  station 
is  on  the  left  bank),  is  a  good  centre  for  excursions  among  the 
mountains  of  the  S.  Palatinate  (p.  300).  The  KrapptnftU  and  Buck- 
holzfels  are  easily  accessible  points  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  *View 
Tower  on  the  Rehberg  (1890  ft.),  II/2  tr»  to  the  S.,  is  reached  by  a 
path  (white  marks),  indicated  (left)  by  a  flnger-post  in  the  main 
street  of  the  village. 

From  the  E.  entrance  of  Annweiler  a  road  (*Burg-Stra8se')  di- 
verges to  the  S.  from  the  Landau  highroad,  and  from  it  a  footpath 
(blue  marks)  ascends  to  the  left  through  wood.  The  ancient  im- 
perial fortress  of  ♦Trifels  (1516  ft. ;  1  hr. ;  rfmts.)  was  founded 
as  early  as  the  10th  cent.,  but  the  present  scanty  ruins  date  from 
about  the  middle  of  the  12th  century.  Trifels  was  not  unfrequently 
occupied  by  the  German  emperors.  Its  walls  protected  the  unhappy 
Henry  IV.,  when  excommunicated  by  Pope  Gregory  VII.  in  1076, 
and  deserted  by  his  nobles  It  was  here  that  Richard  Coeur-de-Lion 
is  said  to  have  been  confined  for  more  than  a  year  (1193-94)  by  the 
Emp.  Henry  VI.,  until  his  liberation  was  effected  by  the  faithful 
Blondel.  After  the  Thirty  Years'  War  the  castle  fell  to  decay.  The 
central  tower,  33  ft.  in  height,,  and  the  chapel  have  recently  been 
restored.  In  cleaning  the  castle-well,  the  spring,  cut  in  the  rock, 
was  discovered  at  a  depth  of  270  ft.  The  view  is  similar  to  that  from 
the  Madenburg,  but  less  extensive  towards  the  E.    (7qqq1p 


300  BouU  39.  ZWEIBBUCKEN.  The  Vosgei  of 

The  hill  occapied  by  the  Trifels  is  the  noTthemmost  eminence  of  a 
range  1  M .  in  length*  the  other  two  summits  of  which  bear  the  rains  of 
Anebos  and  Schar/enberg^  the  latter,  with  its  square  tower  66  ft.  in  height, 
being  usaally  known  as  the  MUmz.  A  pleasant  path  (with  blue  marks) 
skirt9  the  8.W.  slope  of  this  range,  passing  ihese  ruins.  Farther  on  it 
descends,  but  afterwards  again  ascends,  leading  through  fragrant  woods 
of  beech  and  pine.  The  Weiterberg  remains  to  the  left.  In  I1/3  hr.  we 
reach  the  Kadenbnrg  Gocally  Eschbacker  8ehlot$;  1520  ft.|  rfmts.),  situated 
above  the  village  of  Escbbach  to  the  S.,  the  grandest  rum  in  the  Rhenish 
Palatinate,  formerly  belonging  to  the  counts  of  Leiningen,  afterward^  to 
the  bishopric  of  Speyer,  and  burned  down  by  the  French  general  Kontclar 
in  16S9.  The  *View  from  the  Hadenburg  is  one  of  the  finest  and  moat 
extensive  in  the  Palatinate,  comprising  both  plain  and  mountain.  —  From 
the  Madenburg  to  BtchtuUh^  25  min. ;  to  KlingmmikMter  (p.  290),  1  hr. 

The  narrow  gieen  valley  of  the  Qaeich  beyond  Annweiler  ig 
enclosed  by  wooded  hills,  from,  which  the  variegated  sandstone 
protrudes  in  picturesque  and  fantastic  forms.  —  12  M.  Rinnthal ; 
I4Y2  M.  WilgartawUserij  with  a  handsome  church  by  Voit 

17  M.  Hauenstein,  —  21  M.  Hinttrweidenthal '  KaUenbach 
(Gerstle,  very  fair ;  Rail.  Restaurant) ,  a  good  centre  for  excursions. 
Diligence  four  times  daily  from  Kaltenbach  to  Dahn  (5  M.,  p.  BOl). 
—  24V2  M.  MunehweiUr,  —  The  line  now  crosses  the  watershed 
b^ween  the  tributaries  of  the  Rliine  and  of  the  Nahe.  28  M. 
Radalhen,  —  30  M.  BiebermiihU  (800  ft.). 

Branch-line  to  (4V4  M.,  in  20  min.)  Pirmaaena  (1205  ft.  \  J9fe«ft,  R.  lV»-2, 
D.  2  Jf,  well  spoken  of-,  Rail.  Hotel),  an  industrial  town  with  80,000  inhab.. 
named  after  St.  Pirmin,  who  preached  here  in  the  8th  eentury.  From  1764 
to  1790  the  Landgrave  Lewis  IX.  of  Hesse-Darmstadt  had  his  residence 
in  the  town.    The  Protestant  charch  contains  the  landgrave^s  monument. 

Several  unimportant  stations.  42  M.  Tschifflick,  once  a  summer- 
residence  of  Stanislaus  Leszczynski,  King  of  Poland. 

45  M.  Zweibrucken  (730  ft. ;  *Zweibrucker  Hof;  *PfdlzerHof)^ 
formerly  the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Zweibrucken,  and  known  to 
the  literary  world  as  the  place  where  the  Editiones  Bipontinae  of 
classical  authors  were  published.  It  is  now  a  town  of  13,700  inhab., 
and  contains  the  chief  court  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate,  which  occu« 
pies  the  old  castle.  When  Charles  X.  Gustavus  of  the  Zweibrucken 
family  ascended  the  Swedish  throne,  the  duchy  became  subject  to 
Sweden,  which  it  continued  to  be  till  the  death  of  Charles  XII.  (1719). 
The  Alexander-Kirche  contains  the  burial-vaults  of  the  ducal  house. 
The  Rom.  Cath.  Church  is  a  handsome  building  in  the  Gothic  style. 

Fbom  Zweibrucken  to  Saarbbdckkn  .  22  M. ,  railway  in  »/4-iV4  hr. 
(fares  2  Ulf  90,  1  UT  95,  1  UT  50  pf.),  via  02  M.)  Eindd  (p.  296)  and  (i3»/t  M.) 
St.  Jngbtrt^  an  industrious  town  with  14,000  inhabitants.  The  other  stations 
are  unimportant.  —  SaarbrUeken^  see  p.  173. 

Froh  Zweibrucken  to  Saargemund,  23  M^  railway  in  VrlV*  hr.  (fares 
2  •#,  1  ur  30  pf.).    Unimportant  stations.  —  23  M.  Saargemund,  see  p.  816. 

From  Annweiler  (p.  299)  a  visit  may  be  made  to  the  picturesque 
mountainous  district  to  the  S.  of  the  Queich,  which  belongs  to  the 
old  Wasgau  or  WasgetUand  (p.  326). 

About  6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Annweiler  lies  the  Lindelbrunner 
Schloss,  which  is  reached  by  the  highroad  to  VolkersweiUr  and 


the  Palatinate.  DAHN.  39,  Route.  301 

Ooasersweiler  ^  and  thence  by  a  path  through  the  fields.  A  pleas- 
anter  hut  somewhat  longer  route  (2^/4  hrs.)  diverges  to  the  left  at  Scarn- 
8tallj  IY2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Annweiler,  and  leads  through  the  Bim- 
bach'Thal,  passing  Lug^  Schwanheim,  and  (l*/4  hr.)  Ober-Schletten- 
bach  (Gennann,  5  min.  to  the  left  of  the  path,  good  wine).  — Thore 
coming  firom  the  Trifels  follow  th6  Madenhurg  route  (see  p.  300) 
to  (1/2  hr.)  the  saddle  between  the  Scharfenberg  and  Rehberg  (finger- 
post) and  then  skirt  the  hollow  to  (25  min.)  the  stone  cross  on  the 
saddle  to  the  N.  of  the  Rehberg.  Thence  they  descend  to  (20  min.) 
the  highroad,  to  the  N*  of  Yolkersweiler. 

The  *Lindelbnmiier  Schloss  (1445  ft.),  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
of  the  Counts  of  Leiningen,  stands  on  an  isolated  hill  affording 
an  unimpeded  view  in  all  directions.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the 
inn  Zum  Schlosschen. 

About  2  M.  from  the  Llndelbrunner  Forsthaus  lies  Vordervoeiden- 
thai  (rfmts.  at  the  burgomaster's),  and  I1/2  M.  farther  on  is  Erlen- 
bach  (H6t.  Berwartstein,  R.  1^/4  Jfy  f*ir)»  iii^der  the  shadow  of  the 
castle  of  Bervcartatein  or  BdrbeUteiriy  recently  rebuilt.  Near  the 
latter  Tillage  we  join  the  highroad  to  Dahn  vi4  Busenberg,  which 
we  follow  until  we  reach  a  fingerpost  on  the  left,  indicating  the 
path  to  (2V4  M.)  the  picturesque  DrachenfelSj  which  commands  a 
fine  Tiew  of  Schloss  Dahn  (see  below)  and  the  castellated  rocks  of  this 
district.  "We  descend  on  the  E.  side  and  ascend  again  to  Busenlerg 
(Zum  Schlosschen),  3  M.  from  £rlenbach  and  3^/4  M.  from  Dahn. 
Hence  we  proceed,  either  yik Sehindhardt  or  into  the  (Y2  hr.)  Lauttr- 
Thai.  Here  we  follow  the  Dahn  road  for  about  V4  M.  and  then 
ascend  by  the  second  cross-road  on  the  right  to  the  Fiachwooger 
Muhle  and  to  (IY2  hr.  from  the  Drachenfels)  the  ruins  of  Schloss 
Dahn  (1110  ft.),  locally  called  the  Erfweiler  Schloaa.  The  steps  and 
passages  are  partly  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The  top  commands  a 
striking  view  of  the  imposing  and  grotesque  sandstone  rocks  around. 
—  About  11/2  M.  to  the  W.  lies  the  picturesque  little  town  of  Dahn 
(Pfalz  Jrm  ,  very  fair),  whence  diligences  ply  four  times  daily  to 
(5M.)  Hinterweidenthal-Kaltenbach  (p.  300)  and  once  daily  to 
Bergzabern  and  Weissenburg  (p.  291). 

Those  who  do  not  wish  to  visit  the  town  of  Dahn  return  from 
Schloss  Dahn  to  the  highroad,  and  descend  to  the  S.  through  the 
Lauter-Thal  to  (3  M.)  Bruchweiler.  On  the  left  is  the  grote8q.ue 
cliff  known  as  the  Fladenatein.  One  mile  beyond  Bruchweiler  the 
Lauter-Thal  is  quitted  by  a  road  leading  to  the  right  to  (1  M.) 
Rumbach  (Post,  plain),  and  through  the  picturesque  valley  of  that 
name  to  (3^/4  M.)  Schdnan  (Loto€,  very  fair),  a  village  on  the  Sauer, 
with  pleasant  environs.  —  From  Rumbach  we  follow  the  road  to 
Nothweiler  and  take  a  path  (red  marks)  to  the  right  at  a  finger-post, 
which  leads  to  the  (IY2  ^'0  Wegelnburg.  (Or  we  may  reach  the 
Wegelnburg  ftrom  Schdnau  in  1  hr.) 

The  *Wegelnbarg  (1880  ft.),  a  hill  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


302  BouU40,  STBASSBORG. 

a  castle  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1679,  is  the  finest  point  in  the 
Vosges  of  the  Palatinate.  The  Tiew  embraces  the  whole  of  the  Yosges 
Mts.  and  extends  to  the  Black  Forest  and  the  Odenwald.  At  the 
top  is  a  mountain-indicator. 

The  frontier  of  Alsace  runs  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  S.  of 
the  Wegelnburg.  Just  beyond  it,  about  3/^  M.  from  the  Wegelnburg, 
is  the  Hohenburg ,  built  of  skilfully-hewn  square  blocks  of  stone, 
and  commanding  a  view  similar  to  that  enjoyed  from  the  Wegelnburg. 
We  return  to  the  ridge  and  descending  to  the  left  by  a  finger-post 
proceed  by  the  FUckenstciner  Hof  to  the  (V2  hr.)  Fleckenstein, 
another  rocky  fastness  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Sauer-Thal,  and 
perhaps  the  most  remarkable  ruin  in  the  whole  district.  Hence  we 
descend  to  the  (20  min.)  Sauer^Thal  and  to  (3  M.)  — 

Lembach  ( Wds««s  Rossel,  plain  but  good),  the  terminus  of  the 
branch-line  from  Walbnrg  (p.  292),  and  a  good  centre  for  excursions. 

A  path  (red  and  white  marks),  diverging  from  the  route  between 
Wegelnburg  and  Fleckenstein,  leads  via  Klein-Wingeny  Klimbach  (Engel),  and 
the  Scherhohl  (p.  291)  to  (4Va  h's )  Weisaenburg. 

About  172  hr.  to  the  S.W.  of  Schonau,  in  the  woods,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  hamlet  of  Wengtltbachy  is  the  ancient  castle  of  Wasigenatein, 
mentioned  in  the  old  German  Walthariualied.  and  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting ruins  in  the  district;  it  is  accessible  also  from  SchSnau  by  a 
red -marked  path  over  the  Wengelsbacher  Jochhohe.  We  may  descend 
hence  in  V*  hr.  to  Oher$teinbach  CSensfelder ;  FrickerJ,  at  the  foot  of  the 
ruined  Klein- Amsberg ;  a  massive  rock  behind  the  village  bears  the  ruins 
of  LUtzahardL  A  path  leads  to  the  6.  (to  the  left  the  mined  Wineck)^ 
.vi&  the  hamlet  of  Windtttin,  to  (7  M.)  JUgerthal  (inn),  with  iron-works  and 
the  imposing  ruins  of  Mt-Windttein  and  Neu-Wi»d»tHm.  From  Jagerthal 
to  Niederbronn  (p.  314),  3  M. 

40.  Strasaborg. 

Arrival.  The  Central  Railwip  Station  (PI.  A,  2,  3;  *  Restaurant,  D. 
2-i  «#))  &  handsome  building  adorned  with  frescoes,  is  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  town.  Omnibuses  of  the  larger  hotels  (70  pf.)  and  cabs  (see  p.  303) 
are  in  waiting.  —  Jfntdor/  Station  outside  the  Mttxgerthor  (to  Kehl), 
•ee  p.  814. 

Hotels.  At  the  Central  Station:  HdxBL  National,  Bahnhofs- Plats  13, 
with  lift  and  electric  light,  R.  from  2»//,  B.  IV4,  D.  at  1p.m.  8V2,  at 
6.45  p.m.  4  ulT;  Termimiis  Hotel,  with  Jift,bot-air  heating,  and  caf^-restaurant, 
R.  2I/S-5,  B.  1,  D.2Jlf  HdTEL  Pfriffbr.  Bahnhofs-Platz  12,  also  with  lift 
and  hot-air  heating,  R.  3Vs^«  B.i. D. 3  Jt,  with  popular  restaurant:  'Hotel 
Christofh,  Bahnhofs-Platz  15,  with  lift  and  hot  air  heating,  R.  8-5,  B.  1V4} 
I>.  3,  pens.  10-15  Jt;  ELSisssR  Hof;  Victoria,  Kdssgasse  7,  R.  2-8,  B.  1, 
D.  2Vs  J/y  unpretending;  Sghirmult,  Kuhngasse,  weU  spoken  of. 

In  the  Town:  *Villx  db  Paris  (PL  a;  C,  8),  in  the  Broglie,  quite  of 
the  first-class,  but  rather  noisy,  with  lift  and  hot-air  heating,  R.  8-5,  B.  V/i, 
D.  (1  and  6  o'clock)  4  Jf;  'Hotel  d'Anoletbrre  (PI.  bi  B,  3),  Pariser- 
Staden  5,  in  a  quiet  and  pleasant  situation,  with  lift,  R.  2-4,  B.  1V4>  D.  3, 
pens.  6-8  uy  ;  'Maisoh  Rouob  (PL  c ;  C,  8),  Kleber-Plats,  new,  also  first-class. 
—  HdTEL  DJt  l'Europb  (PL  d;  C,  3),  Blauwolkengasse  19,  with  garden,  good 
restaurant;  H6tel  db  France  (PL  c;  C,  3),  Jung-St-Peters-Platz ;  Vignette 
<PL  g;  B,  8),  Gerbergraben  88-40,  R.  l»/2-2»/j,  B.  «/4»  D.  3  UT;  Union  (fre- 
quented by  Roman  Catholics),  BLellermann-Staden  8  (PI.  0.  2),  with  lift, 
restaurant,  and  hot-air  heating,  R.  2-5,  B.  1,  D.  3,  omn.  '/«  Jfi  ^>tadt  Basel 
(PL  1;  D,  4),  MetBger- Plats;  Krone,  Kronenburger - Str. ,  R.  2-3,  B.  1, 
D.  2^/tJt;  SoHXOTZ,  Ztiricher-Str.  8,  fair,  B..  iy f  2^ ft  Jf ;  £vanoeli8cbes 


y  Google 


y  Google*^ 


Ptaetioal  Notes. 


STRASSBUBG. 


40,  Route,   303 


Vebeinshaus,  Finkmatt-8tr.  (PL  C,  2),  B.  1V2-4  Jl.  —  J*enHon  InUmaHonak^ 
IJiiiversitats-Str.  26,  well  spoken  of  (5-8  Jf)\  Pension  Bother^  Schiffleut- 
gasse  26  (6  Jf). 

Oafes  (also  restaurants):  Broglie^  *  Wiener  Cafi^  both  in  the  Broglie; 
Steindft  Wiener  Cafi^  Schlossergasse  31. 

Keataurants.  *  Valentin^  Alter  Weinmarkt  50,  first-class,  B.bJt;  Sti/U- 
keller^  Mtinster-Platz  (p.  810);  DoUmaeUeh,  l^enkirchgasse  8;  HoUtmann^ 
Braderhofga88e29;  Schrempp.  Fasanengasse  A;  Kempf^  Kinderspielgasse  46 ; 
C^fi'Bettcmrant  SCahl,  Alter  Kornmarkt  20,  d^j.  2,  D.  21/2-5  UT.  —  Beer. 
Strassburg  beer  (renowned  since  1446):  Taveme  Orubei^  Alter  Kornmarkt  i 
Schneider^  Lange-Str.  79.  Munich  beer:  *&0rmanta,  Universitats-Plats,  D.  from 
IV2  •^  •  BrtUwurttgl^ekle^  Rleber-Plats ;  LOwenbr&t^  Laternengasse ;  MUnchener 
Kindly  Brandgasse  12;  *Luxhof^  Luxhofgajise  1,  near  the  Broglie;  Stadt 
Mtinehm^  Etifergasse  23;  PschorrbrdUy  Alter  Weinmarkt;  Krokodil^  Schlauch- 
gasse.  —  Beer  Gardens.  Orangerie^  see  p.  314;  BdckeMesel,  outside  the  W. 
entrance  of  the  Orangerie ;  Tivoli^  outside  the  Schiltigheim  Gate,  beyond  the 


^Gontades'  (PI.  E,  1) ;  Rheinlutt^  see  p.  314. 
Oab  Tariff. 


During  the 
day. 


1-2  pers. 

—  75 
1.  20 


3-4  pers. 


1.  - 

1.  20 

2.  — 

-40 


h4  pe 

1.  40 
1.  20 

1.  45 

2.  40 
—  50 


In  the  evening 
(after  the  street- 
lamps  are  lit). 


1-2  pers. 
Jf  pf. 
1. — 
1.  80 


34  pers, 
Jl  pf. 

1.  5o 

2.  10 


1.  60 

1.  60 

2.  60 
-50 


1.  90 

1.  90 

2.  90 
-60 


Per  Drive: 

Drive  within  the  town,  to  Tivoli,  the 

Citadel,  and  the  Keustadt  Station 

To  the  Orangerie  from  the  station  . 

To  the  Orangerie  frpm   other  parts 

of  the  town 

Bp  Time: 

Per  V«  br 

n       1    hr 

For  each  Vi  br.  additional     .... 

Trunk,  20  pf.  —  Between  midnight  and  6  a.m.  the  fares  are  higher. 

Taxameter  Oaba.  Within  the  town:  1-2  pers.  per  1000  metres  50  pf., 
each  500  m.  more  10  pf. ;  3-5  pers  per  750  m.  5(f  pf ,  each  375  m.  more  10  pf. 
Outside  the  circumvallation :  1-5  pers.  5(J  pf.  per  750  m.,  10  pf.  for  each 
375  m.  more.  From  10  p.m.  till  6  a.m.  60  pf.  per  500  m.,  10  pf.  for  each 
250  m.  more.  —  Waiting  10  pf.  per  4  min.,  IV2  -»  per  hr.  —  Luggage,  25  pf. 
per  55  lbs.  (25  kg.). 

Electric  Tramways.  Within  the  town  10  pf.,  to  the  Orangerie  15  pf.,  etc. 
From  the  Cental  Station  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  in  various  directions  through  the  town 
and  to  the  suburbs.  Other  important  starting-points  are  the  Kleher-Platx 
(PI.  C,  S)  and  the  Mettger  -  Plate  (PI.  D,  1);  comp.  the  indications  on  the 
Plan.  —  The  outer  subarbs  are  served  by  Steam  Tramtoaps. 

Baths.  Rosenbadj  Sand-Platz  (PI.  D,  4),  with  vapour  baths.  River  BaUit 
at  the  Kehl  Bridge,  on  both  banks,  and  also  on  the  Eleine  Bhein ;  steam- 
tramway  from  the  Central  Station  to  the  Metzger-Platz  and  Eehl. 

Theatre  (PI.  D,  3;  p.  812),  from  16th  Sept.  to  15th  May:  Edengartm^ 
at  the  Terminus  Hotel  (p.  802).  —  Music  in  the  Broglie  or  in  the  Contades, 
on  Tues.  and  Frid.,  from  6  to  6,  or  6  to  7  p.m.,  according  to  the  season;  at 
the  Orangerie  (p.  314)  on  Tues.  &  Sat.  evenings  and  Wed.  &  Thurs.  after 
noons  in  summer  (25  pf.);  at  the  Rheinlust  on  Thurs.,  Sun.,  and  holidays* 

Post  &  Tele^aph  Ofdce  (PI.  £,  3)  Hohenlohe-Str.,  near  the  Kaiser- 
Platz. 

P4t6s  de  foie  gras  (invented  by  the  cook  of  Marshal  Contades,  Governor 
of  Alsace  in  1762-88).  L.  Benry  (5),  E.  Doyen ^  Feyel  (27),  Munstergasse ; 
A.  Henry  ^  Kfiss-Str. ;  Hummel^  Lange-Str.  103;  A.  Michel^  Eramergasse; 
Ed.  Artzner,  Schlossergasse  18.  The  geese- livers  occasionally  weigh 
2-3  lbs.  each. 

principal  Attractions  (one  day) :  Minster  (p.  306 ;  ascend  tower);  Church 
of  St.  Thomas  (p.  312);  Collections  in  the  Episcopal  Palace  (p.  310);  Mon- 
uments of  Kleber  (p.  305)  and  Gutenberg  (p.  a06),  and  the -Broglie  (p.  312)  j 
Imperial  Palace  (p.  812);  University  (p.  813);  Orangerie  (p.  314). 

English  Church  Service  at  the  Ober-Eealschule,  Manteuflfel-Str. 


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304  Route  dO*  STRASSBUBO.  Bistory, 

Strassbnrg  (470  ft),  the  capital  of  Alsace  andOerman  Lorraine, 
the  seat  of  the  goyeriior  and  administration  of  that  piotince,  the 
headquarters  of  the  15th  Corps  of  the  German  army,  the  seat  of  a 
uniyersity  (p.  313),  and  the  see  of  a  Roman  Catholic  hishop,  with 
160,000  inhab.  (in  1871,  78,130)  including  its  garrison  of  16,000 
men,  is  situated  on  the  lU,  2  M.  from  the  Rhine,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  canals.  As  a  medium  of  communication  between 
Germany,  France ,  and  Switzerland ,  Strassburg  has  long  enjoyed 
extensive  commercial  relations.  Recently  it  has  alio  become  a 
manufacturing  place  of  some  importance,  with  tobacco  factories, 
breweries,  engine-works,  foundries,  and  tanneries. 

Argentoratum,  the  oldest  name  of  Straasborg,  denotes  a  Celtic  settle- 
ment, which  prohably  owed  its  origin  to  the  intersection  here  of  the  road 
from  Gaul  to  Upper  Germany  with  that  along  the  Rhine  valley.  The 
Romans  established  a  castnim  at  this  point  (in  9  A.  D.  ?),  which  served,  along 
with  Hayence,  as  the  headquarters  of  the  legions  on  the  Upper  Rhine. 
•The  Emp.  Julian  gained  a  brilliant  victory  here  over  the  Alemanni  in  857. 
—  The  name  8traH$bmrgum  appears  towa^rds  the  end  of  the  6th  cent.,  to 
which  period  the  foundation  of  the  bishopric  is  also  ascribed.  As  an 
episcopal  city,  Strassburg  attained  great  prosperity  through  its  shipping  and 
trade  in  wine.  The  inhabitants  (30,000  in  number)  overthrew  the  bishop 
and  acquired  independence  at  the  bettle  of  Oberhausbergen  in  1262.  Their 
skill  in  the  arts  of  war  enabled  them  to  maintain  their  position,  and  in 
1446  they  successfully  defended  their  city  against  50,000  Armagnacs  who 
invaded  Alsace  under  the  Dauphin  of  France.  The  Reformation  gained 
a  footing  at  Strassburg  in  1620,  and  for  a  century  and  a  half  thereafter 
the  minster  was  almost  uninterruptedly  used  for  the  Protestant  service. 
On  dOth  Sept.,  1681,  in  a  time  of  peace,  Louis  ZIV.,  who  had  already 
conquered  the  rest  of  Alsace  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  seized  the  city 
of  Strassburg.  and  France  was  confirmed  in  its  possession  by  the  Peace  of 
Ryswyck  in  1687.  By  the  Peace  of  Frankfort,  10th  May,  1871,  the  city  was 
restored  to  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

The  TJniveraity,  founded  in  IduT,  was  closed  at  the  time  of  the  French 
Revolution ,  but  was  re-opened  in  1872.  Many  distinguished  men  have 
been  educated  here ,  and  Goethe,  after  a  prolonged  course  of  study  in  the 
society  of  Herder,  Stilling,  and  other  talented  fellow-students,  graduated 
here  as  a  doctor  of  laws  in  1771.  In  1794  the  National  Convention  sup- 
pressed  the  university  as  being  a  stronghold  of  the  GermAn  element  in 
Alsace,  and  in  1803  it  was  converted  into  a  French  academy,  which  in 
its  turn  was  closed  in  1870. 

Strassburg  has  always  been  regarded  as  a  place  of  the  utmost  strate> 
gical  importance,  and  in  a  letter  of  Emp.  Maximilian  I.  it  is  termed  the 
bulwark  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire ,  and  commended  for  its  old-German 
honesty  and  bravery.  Strassburg  artillery  was  famous  in  the  middle 
ages.  The  Fortifications  were  much  strengthened  by  the  French,  who 
constituted  Strassburg  their  third  great  arsenal.  The  siege  of  1870  began 
Dn  13th  Aug.,  the  bombardment  on  I8th  Aug. ;  and  after  a  determined 
and  gallant  resistance  the  town  capitulated  on  27th  September.  The 
atadel^  erected  by  Vauban  in  1682-84,  was  converted  into  a  heap  of  ruins, 
while  the  Steinthor  on  the  V.  and  the  Weiitthurmthor  on  the  W.  were 
almost  entirely  destroyed.  The  quarters  of  the  town  adjoining  these  gates 
suffered  terribly,  but  no  trace  of  the  havoc  now  remains.  The  German 
fortifications  consist  of  an  extensive  girdle  of  fifteen  strong  outworks, 
some  of  them  4-6  M.  from  the  town  (comp.  pp.  293,  320j,  and  of  an  inner 
rampart,  enclosing  a  space  more  than  twice  the  area  of  the  former  town. 

The  political  vicis^tndes  of  the  city  find  their  external  counterpart  in 
its  Arehiieotural  Oharaeter.  Its  prosperity  as  a  free  imperial  city  is  illus- 
trated by  iheg  noble  Minster  and  other  old  churches  and  by  a  few  public 
buildings  (pp.  306 ,  310)  and  private  dwellings  in  the  Renaissance  style, 


statue  of  Kleher.  STRASSBURG.  40.  RouU,  30b 

chiefly  in  the  side-strevts  near  the  cathedral  (pp.  310,  311).  A  considerable 
layer  of  structures  in  the  Louis  XV.  style  was  deposited  by  the  18th  cent., 
when  the  noblesse  of  both  banks  of  the  lihine  were  attracted  by  the  brilliant 
court  of  the  French  CardiDal-Bishop  (p.  310).  The  plans  were  furnished 
by  Rob.  de  Cotte,  Blondei,  Finot^  and  other  Parisians,  but  the  execution  was 
entrusted  to  local  architects.  A  third  important  building  era  set  in  with 
the  recent  expansion  of  the  city  under  German  rule.  The  monumental 
edifices,  such  as  the  University,  the  Emperor's  Palace,  and  the  new  churches, 
are  accompanied  by  a  growing  number  of  new  private  residences,  chiefly 
in  the  Benaissance  style.  —  The  numerous  storks  are  an  unfailing  source 
of  interest  to  British  and  American  visitors. 

From  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  we  follow  the  Kuhn- 
gasse  (electric  tramway)  to  the  canalized  111.  In  the  Kleber-Staden, 
to  the  left,  are  the  Synagogue,  a  Romanesque  buUding  by  Levy 
(1898),  and  the  old  railway  station,  now  a  Market  (PI.  B,  21  in  the 
left  wing  of  which  is  an  Industrial  Exhibition  (open  10-12  &  2-6, 
on  Sun,  10-12,30). 

Crossing  the  Kronenhurg  Bridge,  we  reach  the  Altb  Wbinmabkt 
(PI.  B,  3),  which  contains  a  Monumental  Fountain ,  with  reliefs  of 
the  Alsatian  poets,  Ekrenfried,  August,  and  Adolf  Stoher  (d.  1835, 
1884,  &  1892).  —  A  little  to  the  S.W.  Is  OU  St.  Peter's  Church 
(PI.  B,  3),  a  building  of  the  14-15th  cent.,  with  four  large  reliefs 
in  wood  (right  and  left  of  the  entrance)  by  Veit  Wagenei  (1601). 

The  Wedimabkt-Strasse,  the  Hohe  Steo,  its  E.  prolongation, 
and  the  Mbisengasse,  ending  at  the  Broglie  (p.  312),  form  one  of 
the  ehief  arteries  of  traffic.  —  At  the  beginning  of  the  Hohe  Steg, 
to  the  right,  is  the  small  EUern- Manns- Platz  (PL  0,  3),  deriving 
its  name  from  the  ^iron  man',  an  ancient  cognizance  of  Strassburg 
to  be  seen  on  a  house  here.  —  We  pass  the  KUine  Mettig,  recently 
rebuilt  in  the  German  Renaissance  style,  to  the  Klbbbb-Platz 
(PI.  0, 3),  which  is  adorned  with  a  bronze  Statue  of  Kleber,  by  Orass^ 
erected  in  1840.  The  Inscriptions  give  a  brief  account  of  the  career 
of  the  general,  who  was  a  natiye  of  Strassburg  (b.  1763,  murdered  at 
Cairo  in  1800).  —  The  so-called  Aubette,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Platz,  was  totally  destroyed  by  the  bombardment  of  1870,  but  has 
been  tastefully  restored,  the  former  fa^de  haying  been  retained. 
It  was  originally  used  in  part  for  military  purposes,  and  its  name  is 
said  to  refer  to  the  reyeille  or  morning-call.  The  groundfloor  now 
contains  Ouard  Booms  and  some  shops.  The  upper  floor  is  devoted 
to  the  Conservatorium  of  Music,  and  includes  a  fine  concert-hall.  — 
A  little  to  the  £.  is  the  Tmiple  Neuf,  or  Neue  Kirehe  (PI.  C,  3),  a 
Dominican  church  of  the  13th  cent.,  entirely  burned  down  during 
the  siege  of  1870,  but  rebuilt  in  an  imposing  Romanesque  style.  It 
contains  a  fine  organ,  and  the  tombstone  of  the  mystic  Johann  Tauler 
ri290-1361).  Adjoining  the  church  is  the  Protestant  Qymnasium 
(Pl.  38),  an  institution  of  which  the  Strassbnrgers  have  been  justly 
proud  for  more  than  two  centuries. 

From  the  Kleber-Platz  the  Gbwbbbslaubbn,  a  busy  street  with 
arcades  under  the  houses  on  the  E.  side,   leads  to  the  S.  to  the 

Baedbkek's  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  20*^^8^^ 


306  Route  40.  STRASSBURG.  Minster. 

Gutbnbebg-Platz  (PI.  0,  3,  4),  so  called  from  the  Statue  of  Cfuten- 
hergy  the  inventor  of  printing,  by  David  d'Angers  (1840).  The  four 
bas-reliefs  are  emblematical  of  the  blessings  of  the  invention  in 
the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  and  comprise  likenesses  of  many 
celebrated  men.  The  first  Strassburg  printer  was  Johann  Mentd  or 
Mentelinf  who  flourished  about  1458-78,  and  was  perhaps  either  a 
pupil  or  assistant  of  Gutenberg  (comp.  p.  163).  —  The  Gutenberg- 
Platz  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  H6tel  du  Commerce  (PI.  3 ;  G,  4), 
formerly  the  town-hall,  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1682-85, 
and  extended  towards  the  S.  in  1867. 

From  the  Gutenberg-Platz  the  Efamergasse  leads  to  the  £.  to- 
wards the  Minster,  the  W.  facade  of  which,  in  red  sandstone  from 
the  Vosges,  produces  a  brilliant  effect  in  the  light  of  a  clear  afternoon. 

The  *MiiL8ter  (PI.  D,  3;  Monasterium  Sanctae  Mariae  Virginif) 
is  the  cathedral  of  the  see  of  Strassburg,  said  to  have  been  founded 
about  600  and  dedicated  from  the  very  first  to  the  Holy  Virgin. 
The  earliest  building  of  arohitectural  importance  was  begun  In  1015 
by  BUhop  Wemher  von  Hapsburg  (1001-27)  and  continued  by  Bishop 
WiUiam  /.  (1028-47).  The  date  of  its  completion  is  not  known. 
Repeated  fires  gave  occasion  for  the  erection  of  a  new  church,  which 
was  begun  in  1176  under  Bishop  Conrad  /.,  mainly  on  the  existing 
foundations,  but  after  a  design  calculated  to  make  It  one  of  the  most 
considerable  Romanesque  edifices  in  Germany.  While  the  apse  and 
the  transept  were  slowly  progressing,  Gothic  architecture  had  be- 
come established  in  France,  and  of  course  exercised  an  influence  on 
all  buildings  in  course  of  consteuction.  This  Influence  Is  apparent  in 
the  articulation  of  the  S.  transept,  in  the  tracery  of  its  round  and 
pointed  windows,  and  in  its  elaborate  portal.  The  architecture  of 
the  nave,  begun  about  1250  (nearly  the  same  time  as  the  choir  of 
Cologne  Cathedral)  and  finished  in  1275,  is  almost  exclusively 
Gothic,  t  The  name  of  the  architect  is  unknown.  We  can  gather, 
however,  from  analogies  of  style  that  he  had  been  a  diligent  student 
of  French  architecture  (such  as  that  of  the  church  of  St.  Denis, 
finished  in  1231).  He  was,  however,  by  no  means  a  mere  servile 
copyist,  but  a  thoughtful  and  original  master,  who  pre-eminently 
surpassed  his  contemporaries  in  his  keen  sense  of  symmetry.  His 
work  may  be  characterized  as  the  first  important  manifestation  of 
the  Gothic  style  on  German  soiL  In  1277  the  citizens,  justly  proud 
of  their  recently  acquired  independence  (p.  304),  took  in  hand  the 
construction  of  the  W.  facade.  It  is  in  connection  with  the  latter 
that  we  encounter  the  name  of  Erwin  von  Steinbaeh  for  the  first 
time.  Of  the  origin  and  training  of  this  master  we  know  nothing, 
and  even  the  accuracy  of  his  surname  is  questioned.  That  he  was 
a  stranger  may  be  inferred^from  the  discrepancy  of  the  style  of  his 
work  from  that  previously  exhibited  in  the  minster.  Among  the  ex- 

t  In  the  accompanying  plan  the  Romanesque  parts  of  the  building  are 
shown  in  black,  the  Gothic  shaded.  ^  j 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


MiniUr.  STRASSBURG.  40.  RouU.  307 

taut  designs  ascribed  (with  more  or  less  certainty)  to  liim  is  one 
(p.  311)  which  accords  with  the  execution  up  to  the  top  of  the  gable 
of  the  side-portals.  The  constmction  of  the  facade  was  long  inter- 
rupted by  a  flre  which  seriously  injured  the  nave  in  1298  and  diverted 
all  the  available  means  to  its  renovation.  Erwin  died  in  1318.  The 
office  of  cathedral-architect  long  remained  in  his  family,  the  last 


i^ld*UL> 


scion  of  which  is  supposed  to  be  Master  OerUichf  who  completed  the 
third  stage  of  the  towers  in  1366.  Thereafter  the  idea  of  carrying 
through  Erwln's  designs  for  the  facade  seems  to  have  been  given 
up,  while  an  important  innovation,  the  construction  of  the  platform 
between  the  towers,  was  resolved  on.  In  1399  Ukich  von  Ensingen 
of  Swabia,  who  showed  astonishing  command  of  the  constructive 
possibilities,  began  the  erection  of  the  octagonal  story  of  the  tower, 
with  its  lofty  windows  and  bold  com er-t arrets.    To  him  also  is  due 

20*       - 


308   RouUdO.  STRASSBURG.  Minster. 

the  heightening  of  the  octagonal  tower  by  another  low  story  (1419), 
which  completed  the  suhstruction  for  the  spire.  The  identity  of  the 
^Junker  von  Ptag\  who  are  also  credited  with  work  on  the  tower, 
is  ancertain.  Equal  technical  ability  is  shown  by  the  open-work 
spire,  constructed  by  Johannes  HiUtz  of  Cologne  (1420-39). 

The  work  of  the  following  centuries  was  confined  to  renovation  and  . 
small  additions.  Great  damage  was  caused  by  a  conflagration  in  1769,  by 
the  fanaticism  of  the  French  Republicans  in  1793,  and  by  the  German  bom- 
bardment in  1B70.  All  traces  of  the  insjury  which  the  cathedral  sustained 
during  the  siege  have  now  been  removed  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
architect  Klotz,  The  roof  has  been  covered  with  copper,  and  a  Roman- 
esque dome  was  built  over  the  crossing  in  1878-79.  From  1890  to  1895  the 
minster-architect  was  Fv.  ScJtmitz,  who  completed  Cologne  Cathedral. 

The *-Papadc,  by  Erwin  of  Steinbach,  Is  justly  the  most  admired 
part  of  the  edifice ,  and  presents  a  singularly  happy  union  of  the 
style  of  N.  France  (interrupting  galleries ,  horizontal  members ,  and 
fine  rose -window,  42  ft.  in  diameter)  with  the  perpendicular 
tendency  peculiar  to  German  cathedrals.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
delicate  tracery,  and  the  entire  building  is  embellished  with  numer- 
ous sculptures  (many  of  them  restored  in  the  19th  cent.). 

The  niches  of  the  gallery  of  the  first  story  contain  equestrian  figures 
of  Glovit  (founder  of  the  first  minster),  Dagobert  (founder  of  the  bishopric), 
Rudolf  of  Eaptlyurg  (who  invested  the  town  with  many  privileges^hese  Ihree 
erected  in  1291,  but  since  renewed),  and  Louit  XIV.  (erected  in  1823).  In  the 
niches  of  the  second  and  third  stories  are  statues  of  20  other  emperors  and 
kings.  —  Over  the  rose-window  are  the  Virgin,  and  Apottles,  with  the  Saviour 
above  them. 

The  sculptures  of  the  three  portals  illustrate  the  Christian  doctrine  of 
the  Fall  and  Redemption.  On  the  Left  Side  Portal  are  scenes  from  the  early 
life  of  Christ  and  figures  of  the  Cardinal  Virtues  and  the  Seven  Works  of 
Mercy.  On  iheMain  Portal  are  reliefs  from  the  Passion  and  statues  of  prophets, 
with  the  Virgin  and  King  Solomon,  as  the  representative  of  the  highest  earthly 
wisdom.  (The  middle,  beardless  prophet  to  the  left,  in  medieeval  dress,  is 
said  by  tradition  to  be  a  portrait  or  Erwin  of  Steinbach.)  On  the  Right  Side 
Portal  is  a  relief  of  the  Last  Judgment,  with  figures  of  the  Foolish  Vii^ns  and 
the  Tempter  to  the  left,  and  of  the  Wise  Virgins  and  a  prophet  to  the  right. 

The  late-Romanesque  8,  Portal  also  merits  examination.  The 
sculptures  with  which  it  Is  adorned  date  from  about  1250.  Of  the 
reliefs  over  the  doors  the  Coronation  of  the  Ylrgin  has  been  restored, 
while  the  Death  of  Mary  remains  almost  in  its  original  condition. 
King  Solomon  between  the  doors  is  modern.  The  beautiful  female 
figures  on  the  right  and  left  are  medisval  symbols  of  Christianity 
and  Judaism.  The  statues  of  Erwin  and  Sabina  (the  more  or  less 
apocryphal  daughter  of  Erwin)  were  erected  in  1840. 

On  the  N.  side  is  the  late-Gothic  Chapel  of  St,  Lawrence^  with 
coarsely  realistic  sculptures  from  the  martyrdom  of  the  saint  (re- 
stored), built  in  front  of  the  Romanesque  facade  of  the  N.  transept  in 
1495-1505.  On  the  pillars  to  the  left  is  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi; 
to  the  right  are  statues  of  St.  Lawrence,  Pope  Sixtus  IV.,  and  others. 

The  •INTBBIOB  (open  8-9, 10-12,  and  2-6;  best  light  about  mid- 
day), consisting  of  a  nave,  14  yds.  wide  and  99  ft.  high,  and  aisles, 
with  transept  and  a  somewhat  shallow  choir,  is  121  yds.  in  length  and 
45  yds.  in  width.  It  differs  from  that  of  other  German  cathedrals  in 


MinsUr.  STRASSBURG.  40,  BouU.   309 

possessing  greater  width  in  proportion  to  its  height,  and  surpasses 
them  in  harmonions  effect.  The  noble  window-tracery  and  the  open 
triforinm  are  direct  reminiscences  of  St.  Denis.  The  subdued  light 
enters  through  admirable  stained-^glass  windows  of  the  14-1 5th  cent., 
the  subjects  of  which  include  apostles,  saints,  bishops,  German  sov 
ereigns,  and  scenes  from  the  lives  of  Christ  and  the  Yirgin.  The 
middle  window  of  the  choir  is  modern.  The  fresco  of  the  Last  Judg- 
ment on  the  triumphal  arch  is  by  Steinheil  (1875).  In  the  nave  is 
the  Pulpit,  richly  sculptured  in  stone,  and  executed  in  1485-87  for 
John  Oeiler  of  Kayaersherg  (d.  1610;  p.  341).  The  Font  in  the  N. 
transept  dates  from  1453.  —  The  Chapel  of  8t,  Catharinej  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  S.  aisle,  was  added  in  1349  and  revaulted  in  1647.  — 
Opposite,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  the  Chapel  of  8t,  Martin , 
of  1516-20.  —  The  Apse  was  frescoed  by  E.  Steinle  (p.  229)  in 
1877-80.  —  The  Chapel  of  81.  John  (13th  cent.),  to  which  a  few 
steps  descend  to  the  left  of  the  choir,  contains  the  Momtmtnt  of 
Bishop  Conrad  of  Lichtenherg  (d.  1299),  executed  inErwin*s  work- 
shop, in  a  court  beyond  which  is  the  Tombstone  of  Erwin,  his  wife, 
and  one  of  his  grandchildren.  —  The  Romanesque  Chapel  of  St. 
Andrew,  to  the  right  of  the  choir,  was  ^nished  before  1190,  but  its 
upper  part  was  altered  at  a  later  period.  —  The  ^Erwinapfeiler\  a 
pillar  in  the  S.  transept,  is  adorned  with  late-Romanesque  sculp- 
tures (ca.  1260),  representing  eight  angels  and  the  four  Evangelists. 
The  large  astronomical  Olock  in  the  S.  transept  was  constructed  in 
1838-42  by  ^eAt«'{^«^,  a  clock-maker  of  Strassburg.  It  replaces  a  similar  clock 
by  Dasypodius^  constrticted  in  1574,  which  was  in  use  down  to  1789,  and 
which  in  its  turn  formed  a  substitute  for  a  still  older  clock,  made  in 
1352-64.  Only  a  few  parts  of  the  interior  and  some  of  the  decorative 
paintings  of  the  old  clock  were  used  in  making  the  present  one.  The 
exterior  attracts  spectators  at  all  times,  especially  at  noon  (12.29  p.m.  of 
Central  Europe  time).  On  the  first  gallery  an  angel  strikes  the  quarters 
on  a  bell  in  his  hand^  while  a  genius  at  his  side  reverses  his  sand- 
glass every  hour.  Higher  up.  around  a  skeleton  which  strikes  the  hours, 
are  grouped  figures  representing  boyhood ,  youth ,  manhood ,  and  old  age 
(the  four  quarters  of  the  hour).  Under  the  first  gallery  the  symbolic  deity  of 
each  day  steps  out  of  a  niche ,  Apollo  on  Sunday ,  Diana  on  Monday ,  and 
so  on.  In  the  highest  niche,  at  noon,  the  Twelve  Apostles  move  round  a 
figure  of  the  Saviour.  On  the  highest  pinnacle  of  the  side-tower,  which  con- 
tains the  weights,  is  perched  a  cock  which  flaps  its  wings,  stretches  its  neck, 
and  crows,  awakening  the  echoes  of  the  remotest  nooks  of  the  cattiedral. 
The  mechanism  also  sets  in  motion  a  complete  planetarium,  behind  which 
is  a  perpetual  calendar.  —  The  most  wonderful  feature  of  this  piece  of 
mechanism  is  that  it  is  calculated  to  regulate  itself  and  adapt  its  motions 
to  the  revolution  of  the  seasons  for  an  almost  unlimited  number  of  years. 

At  the  end  of  the  nave  Is  the  entrance  to  the  Crypt  (fee),  the  E. 
part  of  which  dates  from  early  in  the  11th  century. 

The  *MiNSTBB  TowBB  (p.  307)  rises  from  the  W.  facade  to  a  vast 
and  dizzy  height.  The  entrance  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the  unfinished 
tower;  ticket  to  the  platform  15  pf.,  up  to  the  turrets  40 pf.,  to  the 
top  of  the  spire  (steady  head  necessary)  2  UJ?.  The  visitor  ascends 
a  tolerable  staircase  of  336  steps  to  the  Platform^  216  ft.  above  the 
street,  which  affords  a  fine  *Vibw  of  the  town  and  the  plain  of  the 


310  Route  40.  STKASSBURG.  Episcopal  Palace, 

Rhine.  To  the  £.  is  seen  the  Black  Forest  from  Baden  to  the 
Blauen  j  W.  and  N.  the  Vosges  Mountains ;  S.  the  isolated  Kaiser- 
stuhl  (p.  377),  rising  from  the  plain ;  beyond  it,  in  the  extreme 
distance,  the  Jura  range.  A  good  panorama  is  sold  by  the  attendants. 
Innumerable  names  are  engraved  on  the  parapet  of  the  platform  and 
on  the  tower  itself.  Among  them  are  those  of  Ooeihe,  Herder,  and 
Lavctterj  on  a  stone  to  the  right  of  the  small  £.  door  of  the  tower 
leading  to  the  gallery.  Voltaire* a  is  also  to  be  found  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, among  many  others. 

From  the  platform  to  the  summit  of  the  tower  is  a  height  of  249  ft. ; 
the  entire  height  is  therefore  466  ft.  (one  of  the  highest  buildings  in  Europe  ; 
Eiffel  Tower  at  Paris  986  ft.,'  Hole  Antonelliana  at  Turin  687  ft.,  Ulm  Cath- 
edral 628ft.,  Cologne  Cathedral  612  ft.,  Rouen  Cathedral  486  ft.,  the  Church 
of  St.  Glaus  ..t  Beval  476  ft.,  the  Kicolai-Eirche  at  Hamburg  471  ft.,  St. 
Martin's  at  Landshut  in  Germany  462  ft. ,  St.  Stephen's  at  Vienna  446  ft., 
St.  Peter's  at  Rome  436  ft.,  St.  Paul's  at  London  404  ft.).  The  spire  having 
been  injured  by  lightning  in  1833,  it  is  now  surrounded  with  a  network 
of  conductors.  The  unfinished  turrets  at  the  comers,  which  seem  to  cling 
precariously  to  the  principal  structure,  contain  winding  staircases,  leading 
to  the  ^LanUrn'y  an  open  space  immediately  below  the  extreme  summit. 
The  massive  cross  on  the  top  was  bent  by  a  projectile  during  the  siege  of 
1870,  hut  has  been  restored. 

The  Miinster-Platz,  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral, 
contains  several  ancient  examples  of  half-timbered  architecture, 
the  finest  of  which  is  the  KammenelVscke  or  Braun^sche  Haus 
(15-1 6th  cent.),  recently  well  restored  and  fitted  up  as  a  wine- 
saloon  (Stiftskeller,  see  p.  303). 

In  the  Sohloss-Platz  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  which  lies  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  Minster,  are  situated  the  Lyceum,  or  grammar-school,  and  the 
Roman  Catholic  Seminary. 

The  old  Episcopal  Palace  (PI.  D,  4),  opposite  the  S.  portal  of 
the  Minster,  was  built  by  Cardinal  Armand  Gaston  de  Rohan  in 
1728-41,  and  between  that  date  and  1789  it  was  the  seat  of  the 
brilliant  court  of  three  other  bishops  of  the  Rohan  family.  It  was 
purchased  by  the  town  during  the  First  Revolution,  and  from  1871 
to  1896  was  employed  as  a  library  and  for  university  purposes.  In 
1898  it  was  fitted  up  for  the  ♦Municipal  Museum  op  Aet.  The 
decoration  of  the  18th  cent,  rooms  is  noteworthy.. 

CoUBT.  To  the  right  is  the  Collection  of  AUaHan  Antiquities  (open  free 
on  Sun.  10-12.30,  and  Wed.  11-12.80). 

First  Floob,  with  the  Oolleotion  of  Fioturei,  founded  in  1889  and 
already  containing  upwards  of  600  works  (open  on  week-days,  except  Hon., 
10-1  A  2-4,  and -on  Sun.  10-1*,  adm.  on  Tues.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.  50  pf.,  on  other 
days  free).  The  older  section  contains  a  few  excellent  examples  of  the 
Italian,  German,  and  Netherlandish  schools;  the  modem  section  is  largely 
devoted  to  Alsatian  works.    Catalogue  80  pf. ;  with  illustrations,  2  Uf  60  pf. 

Room  I.  Modem  Works.  To  the  right,  •499.  /.  H.  Zuber,  Flock  of 
sheep  at  Alt-Pfirt;  *417.  Corot,  Pond  at  Ville  d*Avray.  Also  specimens  of 
Firon,  QiJbtrty  Decamps^  Schuler,  Brion,  Liebermann,  and  Thurner. 

Boom  II.  Older  Schools.  .To  the  right.  85.  Van  Dyek,  Portrait;  124. 
Rembrandt,  Study  of  an  old  man's  head;  324.  A.  Sacehi,  General  of  the 
Augustine  Order;  Rubene,  82.  Christ,  81.  St.  Francis  (studio-pieces);  825. 8alv, 
Rosa,  Heroic  landscape;  361.  Dom.  Theotocopulo  (Spanish),  Madonna;  384. 
P'fHs  Bordone,  Holy  Family  (injured);  *JC3.  Th.   de  Kepset\   Heads  of  the 


Maisonde  Noire  Dame,     STRASSBURG.  40,  Route.    311 

Amsterdam  Silversmiths'  Guild;  87.  Jordam»j^  Boors  carousing;  364,  363. 
Zvrbaran,  S&intst  352.  Bibera^  SS.  Peter  and  Paul. 

ANTB-Boom  III.  Florentine  reliefs  of  the  Madonna,  a  terracotta  bust 
by  At,  Vittoria  (No.  376),  and  other  sculptures.  Fire  view  of  the  Minster.  — 
Room  IV  (to  left).  Examples  of  H.  Baldung  Orien,  ZeiWomf  TTite,  and  other 
early-Oerman  masters  (16-1 6th  cent.). 

Boom  V.  Italian  Masters  (15-16th  cent.).  To  the  left,  276.  Cariani, 
Lute- player;  *2i9.  Oima  da  Conegliano^  St.  Sebastian;  221.  Roceo  Afareoni^ 
Madonna;  2sl.  L,  Ba9$ano^  Annunciation  to  the  Shepherds;  267.  (7.  F,  Penni^ 
Young  Boman  woman;  223.  B.  MonUigna^  Adoration  of  the  Holy  Child; 
342a.  Tiepolo,  Cariti;  271.  School  of  Pdi ma  VeceMo,  Head  of  Christ.  — 
Farther  on,  straight  in  front  of  the  staircase,  we  enter  — 

Cabinet X.  To  the  right:  Cranach  the  Elder^  12.  Fall,  21.  Cmcifixicn. 
B.  Sttigel^  10.  Maximilian  I.,  11.  Death  of  the  Virgin ;  H,  Balduvg  Cfrien, 
14.  Young  man,  16.  Madonna  in  an  arbour,  15  (to  tbe  left),  Portrait;  25. 
Altdor/er  (?),  Architect;  362.  ComeilU  de  Lfon^  Portrait  of  a  nobleman. 

Cabinet  XI.  To  the  left:  53.  Imitator  of  Gerard  David  of  Bruges^ 
Madonna  with  tbe  spoon;  *51.  H.  Memlinffy  Six  panels  from  a  travelHng 
altar.  —  66.  UnJtnovn  Dutch  Matter  (16th  cent.),  Portrait.  —  C2.  Master  of 
the  FemdU  ffalf-lengtht^  Triptych. 

Cabimbt  XII.  91.  StfJe  of  QonzaUe  Coquet^  Astronomer  and  his  wife. 
—  126.  Q.  MettUy  Dives  and  Lazarus.  —  121,  122.  /.  van  Ravetteyn^  Por- 
traits; 166.  J.  de  Heemy  StiU-life. 

Cabinet  XIII.  167.  A.  van  de  VeldOy  Ferry.  —  127.  £t.  Bovrese,  Peeling 
apples;  136.  S.  vanRvptdaely  Biver-pcene.  —  12S.  P,  de  Booghe^  The  walk; 
137.  J.  van  RvftdaeL  Hill-stream. 

Cabinet  XIV.    127B.   Cariani.  Portrait;  90.  Tenters  the  Younger,  Card- 

S layers;  168.  0.  PomboutB,  Dutch  canal;  138.  J.  ran  der  Meer,  Sand-dunes; 
68.  Watteauy  Cleaning  the  dishes. 

Cabinet  XV.  Florentine  reMefs  of  t^e  Madonna;  Heads  of  Apostles, 
old  copies  from  Leonardo's  Last  Supper. 

Cabinet  XVI.  216.  Piero  di  CceimOy  Legend  cf  Prometheus;  270. 
CorreggiOy  Judith.  —  212.  Florentine  School  (ca.  1440),  Tbe  Magi;  202. 
Florentine  School  (ca.  1360),  Apostles'  heads;  213.  Fr,  Bottidniy  Adoratit  n 
of  the  Child.  —  264.  Sodoma,  Holy  Family;  217.  C.  Orivelliy  Adoration  of 
tbe  Child;  214.  Fit.  Lippi,  Ansel's  bead;  216.  Lor.  di  Crediy  Madonna. 

We  return  through  Cab.  XV.  and  Cobsidob  XVII  (views  of  Strasf burg ; 
.ceulptures  by  Bartholdi^  Mcrtolffy  and  others)  to  the  staircase,  and  proceed 
straight  on  to  Booms  VTl  &  VIII,  whith  conta'n  modern  paintings. 

The  Maifon  do  Kotro  Dame,  or  Ftauenhaus  (PI.  2,  D  4;  adm. 
daUy,  9-12  &  3-6,  20pf.),  Schloss-Platz  3,  built  In  tbe  14-16thcent., 
contains  an  ancient  plan  of  the  cathedral,  the  model  of  the  spire, 
seyeral  Gothic  sculptures  transferred  from  the  cathedral,  designs  for 
the  tower  and  facade  (comp.  p.  307),  and  remains  of  the  old  clock. 
The  graceful  winding  staircase,  in  the  latest  GK)thic  style,  merits 
attention. 

Via  the  FetkeUMatht  {^\,  D,  4;  No.  1,  at  the  comer,  a  pic- 
turesque house  of  1477  and  1602),  we  reach  the  Altb  Ftscamabkt 
(PI.  0,  4),  which  connects  the  Gutenberg-Platz  (p.  306)  with  tbe 
Raben-Briicke.  The  house  where  Goethe  lived  when  a  student  at 
Strassburg  (1770-71 ;  No.  36)  is  indicated  by  a  bronze  portrait-bust 
of  the  poet,  in  relief 

At  the  end  of  the  Alte  Fischmarkt,  near  the  Raben*  Briicke,  is 
the  Orouo  Metrfg  (PI.  6;  D,  4),  built  in  1688,  the  groundfloor  of 
which  is  used  as  a  market,  while  the  first  floor  contains  the  interest- 
ing Hohenlohe  Mweum,   open  daily,  Mon.  excepted,  10-12  and 


312  BouU  40.  STRASSBURG.  Imperial  Palace. 

2-4  (Sun.  10-1).  Among  its  contents  is  a  room  in  the  rococo  style 
from  the  Ch&teau  of  Linderhof,  onoe  belonging  to  King  Lewis  n. 
of  Bavaria.  —  No.  1  in  the  Kaufhausgasse,  which  runs  hence  to 
the  W.,  is  a  Renaissance  structure  of  1586. 

The  Protestant  Chnroh  of  St.  Thomas  (PI.  0,  4)  consists,  like 
the  Minster,  of  a  Romanesque  and  a  Gothic  part.  The  former,  to  the 
W.,  dates  from  about  1200-1240.  The  latter,  consisUng  of  a  short 
nave  with  double  aisles,  was  erected  in  the  14th  centnry.  Open  daily ; 
tickets,  40  pf .  each ,  obtained  from  the  sacristan ,  Thomas-Platz  5 
(free  on  Wed.,  10-12). 

The  choir  contains  a  magnificent  *MotMment  in  marble^  erected  by 
Louis  XV.  to  MarsTtal  Sax*  (d.  17S0),  son  of  Augnstua  II.,  Elector  of 
Saxony  (afterwards  King  of  Poland),  and  the  beautifolOonntess  Aurora  von 
Kdnigsmark.  It  was  executed  by  PigalU,  who  completed  it  in  1776  after 
twenty  years^  labour.  The  marshal  is  in  the  act  of  descending  into  the 
tomb  opened  for  his  reception  by  Death,  while  a  female  figure  representing 
France  strives  to  detain  him,  and  Hercules  at  the  side  in  mournfol  attitude 
leans  upon  his  club;  on  the  left,  with  broken  flags  beneath,  are  the 
Austrian  eagle,  the  Dutch  lion,  and  the  Bnglish  leopard,  symbolising 
the  three  powers  defeated  by  the  marshal  in  the  Flemish  wars.  The 
whole  is  an  allegory  in  the  questionable  taste  of  the  age,  but  its  execution 
is  of  great  delicacy  and  vigour.  The  stone  sarcophagus  of  Bithcp  Adeloch 
(d.830),  in  a  side-chapel  to  the  K.,  dates  from  the  12th  centnry.  The  two 
mummies,  in  the  same  chapel,  are  of  the  17th  century. 

To  the  S.,  reached  by  the  Raben-Briicke  (p.  311)  or  the  Thomas- 
Briicke,  is  the  old  City  Hospital^  surrounded  by  various  medical  in- 
stitutes connected  with  the  university. 

In  the  N.E.  part  of  old  Strassburg  lies  the  Bbooue  (PI.  0,  D,  3), 
a  square  named  after  the  marshal  of  that  name  who  laid  it  out  in 
1742,  and  much  frequented  as  a  promenade,  especially  in  the 
evening  (band,  see  p.  803).  At  the  £.  end  stands  the  Theatre, 
burned  down  in  1870,  but  since  restored  in  its  former  style.  In 
front  of  it  is  the  Beinhardhrunneny  by  Hildebrand.  On  the  S.  are  the 
8tadthau8  (1730),  the  Military  Headquarters  (with  a  monument  to 
Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria,  bom  here  in  1786) ,  and  the  Residerhce  of  the 
Governor  of  AUace,  rebuilt  in  1872-74  with  retention,  so  far  as 
possible,  of  the  old  materials  and  appearance  of  1730-36.  At  the 
corner  is  a  bronze  statue  of  the  prefect  Marquis  de  IA%ay-Mam€sia 
(1810-14),  by  Grass,  erected  in  1857. 

The  L^zay-Marn^sia-Staden  leads  hence  along  the  canalized  111 
to  the  Church  of  8t.  Stephen ,  dating  from  the  13th  cent,  but  orig- 
inally founded  in  the  8th  century.  The  Caf£  xum  Bitter ^  Stephans- 
Plan  No.  17,  is  a  Renaissance  building  of  1598,  with  a  painted 
facade. 

Beyond  the  111  a  handsome  new  quarter  has  been  laid  out  on  and 
beyond  the  site  of  the  old  ramparts.  In  the  Eaisbb-Platz  (PL  D,  2), 
adjoining  the  river,  stands  the  Imperial  Palace,  built  in  1883-89  in 
the  Florentine  Renaissance  style  from  Eggert's  designs.  The  building 
(open  daily  10-6,  Sun.  11-6,  in  winter  11-4;  adm.  25  pf. ;  entr.  on 
the  N.  side),  240  ft.  in  length  by  184  ft.  in  depth,  with  a  portico  in 


University.  STRASSBURG.  40.  Route.   313 

front  and  a  half-round  borne  by  columns  at  its  back,  is  richly  decorated 
with  sculptures  by  Berlin  and  Frankfort  artists.  The  dome  above  the 
audience  hall  is  crowned  by  two  colossal  heralds  and  rises  to  a  height 
of  115  ft.  The  palace  is  roofed  with  tiles  after  Olympian  patterns.  The 
imperial  rooms,  on  the  first  floor,  are  decorated  with  paintings  by 
Kneuffel  and  Baum  of  Frankfort.  The  staircase,  the  audience  room 
(under  the  dome),  and  the  three  reception  rooms  on  the  W.  side  are 
all  very  handsome.  —  To  the  right,  opposite  the  palace  and  separated 
from  each  other  by  the  Kaiser-Wilhelm-Str.  (see  below),  are  the 
Hall  of  tlie  Provincial  Diet  and  the  University  Library,  both  in 
the  Renaissance  style  and  built  between  1888  and  1894.  The  latter 
contains  the  Provincial  and  University  Library  (over  800, 000  vols.), 
founded  in  1871  to  replace  that  destroyed  in  the  siege  (open  to 
visitors  on  week-days  2-3,  Sun.  9-12  &  2-4).  In  the  hall  is  a  marble 
statue  of  Emperor  William  I.,  by  Zumbusch. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Kaiser-Platz,  between  the  two  Ministerial 
Offices  (one  of  which  is  still  unfinished),  is  the  Kaiser-Friedrich-Str., 
leading  to  the  Contades  (PI.  E,  1,  2),  a  park  laid  out  by  Marshal 
Contades  In  1764.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  Imperial  Palace  Is  the  con- 
spicuous dome  of  the  Neue-Jung-St-Peter-Kirche  or  the  Church  of  the 
Sacred  Heart  (PI.  0,  D,  2),  erected  in  1889-93.  —  To  the  S.E.,  in 
the  Hohenlohe-Str.,  is  the  imposing  new  Post  Office  (PI.  E,  3 ;  1899). 

The  wide  Kaiser- Wilhelm-Strasse  leads  from  the  Kaiser-Platz 
to  the  S.E.,  crossing  the  111  by  the  handsome  Universitdts-Briicke 
(PI.  E,  3)  and  passing  the  Protestant  Garrison  Church  (1892-97),  to 
the  Univbbsitats-Platz  (PI.  E,  3),  which  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by 
the  collegiate  department  of  the  University  and  on  the  S.  by  the 
building  of  the  Oermania  Insurance  Co.  (restaurant,  see  p.  303). 

The  Collegiate  Department  (ColUgien-Oebdude ;  PI.  E,  F,  3), 
built  in  the  early  Italian  Renaissance  style  in  1877-84,  is  adorned 
with  36  statues  of  men  of  learning.  About  1200  students  attend  the 
lectures.  The  interior  contains  a  handsome  court,  lighted  from  above, 
richly  decorated  vestibules,  staircases ,  and  aula ,  and  extensive 
collections  of  casts  and  objects  of  antiquarian  and  artistic  interest. 
In  the  grounds  behind  the  GoUegienhaus  is  a  colossal  bust  of 
Goethe ;  and  a  statue  of  the  same  poet  as  a  young  man,  modelled 
by  E.  Wagener,  is  to  be  erected  in  front  of  it  —  Adjoining  are  the 
Seismologieal  Institute ,  the  Chemical  and  Physical  Institutes ,  the 
Botaniccil  InstitutCy  with  a  large  garden  and  hot-houses,  the  Qeological 
and  Mineralogieal  Institute ,  the  Zoological  Institute  (at  present 
containing  the  town  collection  of  natural  history),  and  the  excellently 
equipped  Observatory, 

To  the  N.E.,  in  the  Arnold- Platz,  are  the  Roman  Catholic  Oar^ 
rison  Church  (PI.  G,  3),  by  L.  Becker,  and,  opposite,  the  Technical 
School  —  In  the  W.  part  of  the  Schwarzwald-Str.  are  the  District 
Archives  (PI.  1 :  F,  3),  in  the  E.  is  the  large  Commissariat  Depart^ 
ment  (PI.  G,  4)  and  the  Protestant  Teachers'  Seminary.  qqqIp 

o 


314   Route  41.  NIEDERBRONN. 

The  old  part  of  the  town  to  the  S.  of  the  University  also  con- 
tains several  military  l)u11dings.  Near  the  old  Academy  building 
is  the  Mechanics'  School  of  Art  (PI.  5 ;  E,  3),  the  ground  in  front  of 
which,  with  a  monument,  was  formerly  the  botanical  garden  and 
was  nsed  as  a  bnrial-place  during  the  siege.  At  the  "W.  end  of  the 
Wilhelmsgasse  is  the  old  Wilhelmer-Kirche  (PI.  8;  E,  4),  with  a 
fine  Oothic  monument  of  the  14th  cent,  and  good  stained  glass 
(15-16th  cent.).  —  The  Zurich  Fountain  (PI.  9;  D,  4)  commem- 
orates an  old  legend  told  in  a  ballad  by  Fischart.  The  Church  of 
St.  Mary  Magdalen  has  some  old  stained  glass,  and  modem  frescoes 
by  Feuerstein. 

At  the  end  of  the  villa-lined  Ruprechtsauer  AU^e  (tramway, 
see  p.  303)  lies  the  *Orangerie  (PI.  G,  H,  1,  2),  a  beautiful  park, 
with  a  fine  orangery  (1806) ,  a  klosque,  once  belonging  to  King 
Lewis  II.  of  Bavaria,  a  bust  of  the  composer  Victor  Ne8$ler(oi  Strass- 
burg;  1841-90),  a  restaurant  (p.  303)  with  a  large  concert-room, 
and  the  *Al8atlan  Peasant  House*  (wine). 

From  Strassbdro  to  Eehl  (p.  375)  is  also  a  pleasant  walk  (3  M. ;  comp. 
PI.  H,  5;  tramway,  see  p.  303;  railway,  p.  375).  The  road  leads  over  the 
Sporen-Insel^  formed  hy  the  temporary  divergence  of  the  ^Little  Rhine'  from 
the  main  stream,  to  Kehl.  The  large  newharbonr-works  here,  with  maga- 
zines of  coal  and  petroleum,  indicate  the  growing  importance  of  the  navi- 
gation of  the  Upper  Rhine.  Beyond  the  bridge  over  the  ^Little  Rhine\ 
on  the  Sporen-Insel,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  is  a  monnment  erected  by 
Napoleon  I.  to  General  Desaix,  who  fell  at  Marengo  in  1800.  On  the  E. 
side  of  the  Sporen-Insel,  adjoining  the  new  iron  bridge  over  the  Rhine 
(1897),  is  the  favonrite  open-air  pleasnre-resort  Rheinlutt,  affording  a  fine 
view  of  the  Black  Forest. 

From  Strassburo  to  Colhar  (p.  321)  viX  Markolshbim,  47  M.,  steam- 
tramway  in  5  hrs.  (fares  4  UV  90,  3  UlT  30  pf.).  This  line  skirts  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Khine-Rhone  Canal.    The  intermediate  stations  are  unimportant. 

41.  From  Stra4st8burg  to  Saarbrncken  (Metz), 

84  M.  Railway  in  4V«-5>A  hrs.  (fares  10  U»,  7  U»  40,  4  U»  80;  express 
13  U»  50,  9  ur,  5  U»  80  pf.). 

From  Strasshurg  to  Hagenau,  2OV2  M.,  see  pp.  293,  292.  At 
Hagenau  the  line  diverges  to  the  N.W.  from  that  to  Weissenburg, 
passes  (23  M.)  Schweighausen  (branch-line  to  Zabern,  p.  315),  and 
traverses  part  of  the  forest  of  Hagenau  (p.  292).  2772  M.  Merz'- 
weiler^  a  busy  little  place  with  iron -works;  28  M.  Mietesheim; 
30  M.  Oundershofen.  —  31 1/2  M.  Reichshofen  Werk;  32  M.  Reichs- 
ho  fen  Stadt  (Bellevue,  at  the  station;  Dowler,  well  spoken  of; 
excursion  to  the  battlefield,  see  p.  292),  situated  on  the  road  from 
Worth  to  Bitsch,  by  which  the  remnants  of  MacMahon's  army 
retreated  on  the  evening  of  6th  Aug.,  1870.  —  The  line  enters  the 
mountains,  and  passes  through  several  cuttings. 

34  M.  Niederbronn  (660  ft.;  *Matthi8,  R.  2-3,  pens.  5-7  Jf,- 
H6t.  Doersch;  WeUsler;  Villa  Bellevue;  Pens,  Sorg ,  33/4-4  Jf), 
with  3000  inhab.,  in  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Falkensteiner  Bach^  is 
a  popular  summer -resort,  with  saline  springs,  whl(;h  were  known 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


BITSCH.  41,  Route.  315 

to  the  Romans  and  are  specially  beneficial  for  stomach  and  liver 
complaints.  Pleasant  walks.  jThe  Wasenberg  (1416  ft.),  which  rises 
abruptly  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  commanding  a  fine  view,  and  easily 
ascended  in  8/^  hr.,  is  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the  Wasenhurg, 
erected  in  the  14th  century.  Other  excursions  may  be  taken  to 
the  view-tower  on  the  Groase  Winterherg  (1900  ft.;  IV4-IV2  Jir.l 
and  vi&  the  ruins  of  Alt-Windstein  and  Neu-Windstein  to  Philipps- 
burg  (4-4V2  hrs.).  —  Jdgerthal  and  the  Wasigenstein^  see  p.  302. 

381/2  M«  Philippshurg,  About  3  M.  from  here,  among  the  woods, 
on  a  lofty  rock,  Is  the  ruined  castle  of  Falkenstein  (12th  cent.),  with 
a  fine  view.  —  42  M.  Bannstein, 

49  M.  Bitsoh  (1006  ft. ;  H6tel  de  Meiz),  a  small  town  and  fortress 
with  3600  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  N.  slopes  of  the  Vosges,  and 
commanded  by  Fori  Bitschy  the  fortifications  of  which,  partly 
hewn  in  the  rock,  still  command  the  valley.  In  the  Francc-Qerman 
war  of  1870-71  Bitsch  capitulated  only  after  the  preliminary  articles 
of  the  peace  had  been  signed. 

54  M.  Lembergy  with  glass-works ;  6672  M.  Enchenberg ;  59^2  M. 
KUin-Redtfchingen ;  6IY2  M.  Rohrbach;  66  M.  Wolflingen, 

73  M.  Saargemfind ,  French  Sarreguemines  (660  ft. ;  Central 
Hotel)  y  a  town  with  14,900  inhab.,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Blies 
and  8aar,  the  latter  of  which  here  forms  the  boundary  between  Ger- 
man Lorraine  and  Rhenish  Prussia,  possesses  large  manufactories  of 
plush,  velvet,  fayence,  and  earthenware. 

From  Saargemund  to  Saarhurg^  see  p.  318}  to  ZweibrUcktn^  see  p.  800. 

At  Saargemilnd  the  line  divides :  the  branch  to  the  N.  runs  by 
HanweiUr  (station  for  the  small  baths  of  Rilehingen)^  Klein-Blittera- 
dorf^  and  Brebach  to  (84 M.)  Saarbrucken  (p.  173^ ;  that  to  the  W.  by 
Hundlingen^  Farackweilery  and  Beningen  to  (128  M.)  Met%  (p.  174). 

42.  From  Strassbnrg  to  Metz  vi&  Saaralben  or 
vi&  Saarbnrg.   The  North  Vosges  Mts. 

Railwat  vii  Baaralbeny  108  M.,  in  3'/«  brs.  (expre9s);  vift  Saarburg. 
99  M.,  in  2V4-3  hrs.  (express  5  fares  14  U»  60,  10  U»  30,  7  ui  80  pf.). 

As  far  as  Zabern  the  scenery  is  uninteresting.  6  M.  Mundola- 
heim.  At  (6  M.)  Vendenheim  the  line  to  "Weissenburg  diverges  to 
the  right  (p.  293).  The  train  crosses  the  Zom  and  passes  the  large 
lunatic  asylum  ot  Stephanfeld.    11  M.  Brumath. 

W/2  M.  Mommenheiniy  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Saaralben 
(Saargemiind)  and  Saarburg,  which  diverge  from  each  other  here. 

Railway  to  Bbnsdorp  yia  Saaralben.  —  187a  M.  Aliecken- 
dorf.  —  24^2  M.  Obermodemy  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Schweig- 
hausen  and  Hagenau  (see  p.  314). 

From  Obrruodbrn  to  Zabern,  W/t  H.,  railway  in  1  br. 

41/3  M.  BochBweiler  ( Sonne)  y  a  small  town  with  31C0  inhab.,  in  the 
old  4fanancr  Liindchen*,  which  belonged  to  Hcsflc-Darmstadt  down  to  the 


316   Route  42.  ZA.BERN.  From  Stra^mburg 

French  revolution.  The  Rathhaus  has  a  handsome  portal.  The  Gymnasium, 
established  in  1612,  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  chateau.  Many  of  the  houses 
have  Renaissance  balconies.  An  admirable  view  is  obtained  from  the 
Bastberg  (1266  ft.),  a  hill  of  curious  geological  formation,  abounding  in 
coal;  its  fossils  attracted  the  attention  of  Goethe  (refuge-hut  on  the 
summit).  The  Bastberg  is  the  centre  of  numerous  local  traditions  and  vras 
long  believed  to  be  a  favourite  trvsting-place  of  witches  and  sorcerers.  — 
From  Buchsweiler  branch-line  via  Ober-Sulzbaeh  to  (4V«  M.)  Ingweiler  (see 
below). 

7  M.  Neuweiler  (Anifcer,  Wolff.,  good  red  wine)  possesses  two  interest- 
ing churches :  the  Protestant  8t.  Adelphi-Kirche^  a  late-Romanesque  edifice  of 
the  12th  cent. ,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  88.  Peter  and  Paul., 
Romanesque  with  later  additions,  restored  in  1862  (fine  crypt).  Above  the 
town  0/i  br.)  rises  the  ruin  of  Herremtein^  commanding  a  pictureaque  view 
(rfmts.). 

8  H.  Dofsenheim  (Railway  Hotel)  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the  Zinzel- 
Thal.^  through  which  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  (3>/4  U.)  Ober* 
^/(Hathis),  and  Orauflhal  (IVa  M.),  with  curious  rock-dwellings;  the 
valley  contains  quarries  of  white  sandstone.  Abou!  iVa  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Oberhof  is  LUtzeUtein  (Pflug,  very  fair),  with  a  picturesque  old  castle. 
Another  picturesque  walk  from  Dossenheim  is  the  following  (numerous 
way-posts) :  we  ascend  to  the  left  at  the  beginning  of  the  woods  in  the 
Zinzel-Thal  to  the  Taubensehlaff/els ,  above  Emoleheim;  then  cross  the 
hill ,  vi§b  the  so-called  Eeidenstadt  and  Langenthaler  Kreuz.,  to  the  Michaels- 
Gapelle^  above  8t.  Johann  (p.  318),  and  to  Zabem. 

91/2  M.  Hattmatt;  12  M.  Steinburg.  —  14Vs  Zabem  (see  below). 

The  line  ascends  the  wide  valley  of  the  Moder.  —  27  M.  Meneh- 
hoftn;  28  M.  Ingweiler  (H6tel  des  Vosges,  very  fair),  connected  by 
a  branch-line  with  Buchsweiler  (see  above);  3IV2M.  Wimmenau 
(1  hr.  from  Lichtenberg ,  at  the  foot  of  a  fort  destroyed  in  1870) ; 
34  M.  Wingen.  Fine  woods.  Long  tunnel.  38  M.  Puberg;  4O1/2  M. 
Tiefenbach;  43  M.  Adamsweiler.  Near  (451/2  M.)  Diemeringen  are 
the  remains  of  a  Roman  villa.  47V2  M.  Domftssdy  witii  a  fine 
Gothic  church  of  the  14th  cent.;  4r8l/2  M.  VoUerdingen ;  52  M. 
Oermingen;  54^/2^.  Kalhausen^  junction  of  the  line  to  Saargemiind 
and  Saarbriicken;  57  M.  Herbitzheim.  —  59  M.  Saaralben.,  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Bensdorf  and  Saargemiind  line  (p.  318).  —  64  M.  Ott- 
weiUr;  70  M.  Leiningen. 

75  M.  Ben$dorfj  and  thence  to  Metz,  see  p.  318. 

From  Mommbnhbih  (p.  315)  to  BBNSDoitF  via  Saarbuko.  — 
171/2  M.  Hochfeldtn;  2OY2  M.  Wilwisheim;  22V2  M.  DeitweiUr; 
25  M.  Steinburg  (to  Obermodern  and  Hagenau,  see  p.  315). 

271/2  M.  Zabem.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  dkb  Vosqes,  with  beer-garden, 
R.  IVz-^Vzi  R*  V21  !>•  ^  Jf;  Hotel  db  la  Gabb,  at  the  station,  with 
restaurant  and  garden,  very  fair;  Hotel  Cbnteal,  R.  1V«-2V«)  R« 'Ai  pens. 
5V8-B  Jf.  —  Earp/en,  good  wine. 

Carriage  to  Hoh-Barr  and  back  6,  with  two  horses  8  U(^,  iocl.  stay  of 
3  hrs.;  to  Pfalzburg  7  and  12  Ji;  to  Wangenburg  18  Uf}  to  Dagsburg  and 
Wangenburg  20  Jt. 

Zabem  (610  ft.),  also  called  EUass- Zabem  to  distinguish  it 
from  Rhein-Zabem  and  Berg-Zabern  (p.  291),  the  French  Saveme, 
the  Tres  Tabemae  of  the  Romans ,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  the 
Wasgau,  is  now  a  dull  town  with  8500  inhab.,  lying  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Zabemer  Senke  (p.  317),  a  narrow  defile  of  the  Vosges,  watered 


to  Metz.  SAARBURG.  >        42.  Route.   317 

by  the  Zorn,  and  close  to  the  "base  of  the  beautifully-wooded  lower 
hills.  On  the  latter  appear  the  ruins  of  Greifenstein  to  the  right 
(W.),  and  to  the  left  (S.W.)  Hoh-Ban  (p.  319).  The  Rhine-Mame 
Canal  also  traverses  the  pass  and  intersects  the  town. 

The  conspicuous  Schloss  of  the  Bishops  of  Strassburg,  erected  in 
its  present  form  in  1779  by  Cardinal  de  Rohan,  from  the  designs 
of  Salins  de  Montfort ,  is  now  nsed  as  a  barrack.  The  principal 
facade  is  turned  towards  the  garden.  An  Ohelisk  in  the  planted 
square  in  front  of  the  Schloss,  erected  in  1666,  records  the  distances 
of  100  different  towns  from  Zabern  in  German  miles. 

Ascending  the  Haupt-Strasse,  we  reach  the  Haupikirche^  chiefly 
In  the  late-Gothic  style  of  the  latter  half  of  the  15th  century.  The 
pulpit  dates  from  1497.  The  decoration  is  modem.  The  court- 
gateway,  to  the  N.  of  the  church,  leads  to  a  Museum,  in  which  are 
preserved  Roman,  Gallic,  Celtic,  and  Frankish  antiquities  found  in 
the  neighbourhood,  including  several  roof-shaped  tombstones  with 
Roman  inscriptions  from  Eempel,  Fallberg,  and  Dagsbnrg. 

From  Zabern  to  BchUUstadi^  see  p.  332;  to  Obermodem^  see  p.  315; 
to  the  N.  Vosgei^  see  p.  318. 

Near  Zabern  the  railway  enters  the  narrow  and  picturesque 
valley  of  the  Zorn,  and  intersects  the  Vosges  range  at  its  narrowest 
point,  the  Zabemer  Senke  (p.  316),  which  separates  the  Central  from 
the  Lower  Yosges.  The  line  runs  parallel  with  the  highroad,  the 
brook,  and  the  Rhine-Mame  Canal.  Bridges,  embankments,  viaducts, 
and  tunnels  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  —  From  (30^/2  M.) 
Stambach  (A.  Kling;  E.  Kling)  a  marked  path  leads  through  the 
Bdrenbach'Thal  to  (3-3 V2  ^^rsO  Dagsburg  (p.  320).  A  prettier  way, 
but  about  1  hr.  longer,  is  that  by  the  forester's  house  of  Haberacker 
(marked  red  and  white  to  that  point,  and  then  red),  comp.  p.  319. 

33  M.  Lutzelburg,  the  first  station  in  German  Lorraine,  is  sep- 
arated by  the  Zorn  from  a  bold  rock  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the 
LiUzelburger  Schloss,  a  castle  dating  from  the  11th  cent.,  under 
which  rans  a  tunnel  267  yds.  in  length. 

From  LUtseWurff  to  l^altburg  (p.  318),  3>/2  M.,  steam-tramway  in  V2  hr. 
(fares  50,  35  pf.).  —  From  LUitelhurg  to  JOagsburg,  3V«  hrs.,  see  p.  820. 

The  line  soon  quits  the  valley  of  the  Zorn.  A  handsome  bridge 
spans  the  river  with  one  of  its  arches,  and  with  the  other  the  Rhine- 
Mame  Canal,  which  here  turns  to  the  right  side  of  the  valley.  The 
railway  then  penetrates  the  last  of  the  obstructing  hills  by  means  of 
the  Arzweiler  Tunnel,  2945  yds.  in  length,  above  which  is  another 
tunnel  for  the  canal.  —  The  hills  now  recede.  Among  the  mountains 
to  the  left  the  two  Donon  peaks  are  prominent.     41^2  ^-  Ricding. 

44  M.  Saarbnrg  (Edtel  Abondance;  Hdtel  de  Bade;  Hotel- 
Restaurant  Bayersdorfer,  at  the  station),  on  the  Saar,  a  small  and 
ancient  town,  with  9100  inhab.  and  a  strong  garrison,  enclosed  by 
walls  and  gates.  It  must  not  be  confounded  with  Saarburg  near 
Treves  (see  p.  181).  ^  , 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


318  Route  42.  PFALZBURG.  North  Vosges  Mts. 

From  Saabbubg  to  Saakgemumd,  33V2  M.,  railway  in  1-2  hrs.  (fares 
4 Ulf  40  pf.,  8 Uff  lUK 90pf.)*  —  To  BerthelmingBn^  where  carriages  are  changed, 
see  below.  10  H.  Finttingen;  13ys  M.  Wolftkirehen;  17Vs  H.  Baarteerdm; 
IBVfl  M.  Saar-TTnion  (Hdtel  du  Commeree)^  a  place  consisting  of  the  two 
small  towns  of  Bockenkeim  and  Neu-Saartoerden.  24Vs  M.  Baaralben  is  the 
junction  of  the  line  from  Hommenheim  to  Bensdorf  (see  p.  816).  Then 
Willerwaldy  Hanibach,  Neutcheuern.  —  33Y»  M.  SaarffemUndy  see  p.  815. 

From  Saabburo  to  ALBBBscHWBiLSBf  10  H.,  railway  in  1  hr.  —  Stations : 
Immlingm;  8  H.  Ober?ummer  (branch -line  to  Drdbrunn-Valletysthal,  via 
Heurn^  with  interesting  ruins  of  an  old  abbey- church)  ^  LOrchingm^  Nitting^ 
Unter-Barville^  Wcupeneeder,  —  Albersohweiier  (HdUl  Oayei^  R.  2-4  UK,  very 
fair)  is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  into  the  Dagsburg  district 
(p.  820)  and  the  upper  valley  of  the  Saar. 

Fboh  Saabbdbq  to  Kakct,  49V2  H.,  railway  in  lV«-8  hrs.  Stations : 
//  mingm,  Rixingen  or  Richiamriy  DeuUch-Avricouri  (the  Qerman  frontier- 
station  and  seat  of  the  custom-house j  connected  by  a  branch  with  Bens- 
dorf, see  below),  Jgrny-Avricourt  (the  French  frontier-station),  Embtrminilt 
Marainviller^  LunMllet  and  Nancy  (see  Baedeier^t  Northern  France^. 

At  Saarburg  the  line  to  Metz  begins,  and  follows  the  course  of  the 
8aaT,  —  il^l2'ili*8aaralidorf;  52 M. Bcrt^imingren (see above).  The 
line  now  diverges  to  the  left,  intersecting  a  hilly  and  wooded  country, 
with  several  large  ponds.  Several  unimportant  stations.  58  M. 
Lauterfingen ;  63  M.  Nehing. 

66  M.  Bentdorfj  the  junction  for  the  line  from  Mommenheim 
via  Saaralben  (p.  316). 

Bensdorf  is  connected  by  branch-lines  with  (24  M.)  JDeuttek-Avrieourt 
(see  above)  and  with  (22  H.)  Moncel  (for  Kancy). 

68  M.  Rodatben-Bermeringeni  80  M.  Baudreeourt,  At(85M.) 
RemiUy  (p.  174)  we  join  the  line  from  Saarbriicken  to  (99  M.)  Mett 
(p.  174). 

The  North  Yosgei  Mountains. 

Zabem  is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  among  these  mountains. 
—  From  Zabem  to  SL  Johann  and  Dostenheiniy  6  H.,  returning  by  railway 
or  taking  the  train  to  Buchsweiler  (p.  816).  —  From  Zabem  to  lyetUburg^ 
Vft  M.,  and  by  steam- tramway  to  LiUxelbvrg  in  '/i  hr.  (see  p.  817).  —  From 
Zabem  to  the  top  of  the  Ore^fenttein  and  back  in  2-2Vs  hrs.  —  From 
Zabem  vi&  Hoh-Barr^  Brotsehberg^  Haberacker^  and  Oehtenstein  to  Stammbach 
(p.  317),  4  hrs  \  via  Hoh-Barr  to  BacTulntrg  and  Wangenburg,  7-V/t  hrs. 

About  2V2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Zabem  lies  the  village  of  St. 
Johann,  Fr.  8t,  Jean-dcs-Choux^  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine 
Abbey,  the  Romanesque  church  of  v^hich,  re-consecrated  in  1127, 
but  partly  disfigured  in  the  18th  cent.,  deserves  notice.  The  8t, 
MicheU^  Capelle  situated  above  it  commands  a  fine  view.  Along  the 
ridge,  past  the  Taubenschlag  rock,  to  Dossenheim,  see  p.  316. 

From  Zabern  to  Pfalzburg,  6Y4  M. ,  the  road  ascends  the 
steep  slopes  of  the  Tfalzburger  Steig'.  Pedestrians  turn  to  the 
left  and  pass  the  Karhsprung,  a  precipitous  rock,  above  which  they 
regain  the  road.  —  Pfklibnrg  (1035  ft. ;  8tadt  MeU;  Rappen)  is  a 
town  of  3700  inhab.,  situated  in  an  unattractive  lofty  plain,  and 
fortified  down  to  1872.  It  possesses  a  monument  to  Marshal  Mouton, 
ComteLobau,  one  of  Napoleon's  officers,  who  was  born  herein 
1770  (d.  1838).  ^         . 

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North  Vosgtt  Mts,  HOfl-BARR.  42,  Route.  319 

To  the  W,  of  Zabem,  on  the  summit  of  a  wooded  hill,  to  the 
right  of  the  entrance  of  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley  of  the 
Zoni,  rises  the  ruin  of  Greifenstein  (1255  ft.}.  In  Zabern  we  follow 
the  Greifensteiner-Strasse,  which  diverges  from  the  main  street  to 
the  N.  of  the  canal  (or  we  may  go  along  the  bank  of  the  canal),  and 
after  about  ^/^  M.  turn  to  the  right  at  the  finger-post.  We  then  cross 
the  Zorn  and  the  railway,  and  ascend  through  the  wood  to  the  left. 
The  path  (indicated  by  finger-posts)  leads  hence  to  the  summit  in 
about  Y2  hour.  The  ruins  consist  of  two  separate  parts,  chiefly  da- 
ting from  the  12th  and  13th  centuries,  and  command  a  pleasing  view. 
On  the  slope  to  the  S.W.  of  the  fortress,  and  about  1 Y4  M.  distant, 
is  the  natural  Orotto  of  8U  Vitus  (1280  ft.),  formerly  a  chapel  and 
hermitage  to  which  pilgrimages  were  made.  We  may  return  to 
Zabern  in  ^/i  ^m  or  we  may  continue  along  the  crest  as  far  as 
(20  min.)  the  Rappenfeltf  and  descend  thence  to  Stammbach  (p.  317) 
in  25  minutes. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Zomthal  rises  the  ruin  of  Hoh-Barr, 
which  also  occupies  a  wooded  eminence.  Starting  from  the  main 
street  of  Zabern,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  canal,  and  ascending  a  few 
steps,  we  proceed  along  the  canal  and  then  follow  the  red  marks  to 
the  left  until  we  reach  (25  min.)  the  road  and  the  edge  of  the  wood, 
through  which  a  footpath  leads  in  20  min.  to  the  luin  (good  inn). 
The  fortress  was  built  in  the  10-1 1th  cent.,  enlarged  at  a  later  period, 
and  restored  in  1583.  The  extensive  ruins  almost  appear  to  grow 
out  of  the  fantastic  sandstone  and  conglomerate  rocks.  The  small 
Romanesque  chapel,  in  the  court,  is  perhaps  of  the  11th  century. 
The  highest  points  of  the  huge  rocks  are  made  accessible  by  ladders 
and  bridges.  Extensive  view  of  the  Vosges,  and  the  plain  of  the 
Rhine. 

An  interesting  mountain -walk  may  be  made  from  the  Hoh- 
Barr.  Continuing  along  the  ridge  (finger-posts  and  red  marks),  and 
passing  between  the  ruins  of  Oross-Oeroldseck  (1580  ft),  with  a 
huge  tower,  only  half  preserved,  and  an  extensive  Rittersaal,  still 
traceable,  and  Klein- Oerold$eek  ^  we  reach  (20  min.)  the  so-called 
^Hexentisch',  where  notices  on  the  trees  indicate  the  route  via  the 
(20  min.)  Brotschberg  (1757  ft.")  to  (25  min.  more)  the  Schaferplatz 
and  also  the  direct  route  to  (V2  hr.  from  Klein -Geroldseck)  the 
forester's  house  of  Schaferplatz  (1265  ft).  Thence  we  follow  the 
Hagen  and  Haberacker  road,  which,  flanked  by  a  shady  footpath, 
descends  in  nearly  the  same  direction  (S.)  and  terminates  IY2  M. 
farther  on  (way-post)  in  a  road  coming  from  Beinhardsmiinster. 
We  follow  the  latter  to  the  right  to  (10  min.)  the  two  forester's  houses 
of  Haberacker  (1575  ft ;  in  the  first  one  a  fair  restaurant,  also  rooms). 
The  ruin  of  Oohsenstein  (1915  ft.),  which  rises  above  (1/4  hr.), 
consists  of  three  towers,  the  remains  of  which  look  like  parts  of  the 
rocks.  The  ruin  has  been  rendered  accessible  by  ladders  and  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  Hub  and  Dagsburg. 

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320  Route  42,  DAGSBURG. 

We  continue  to  follow  the  road  above  the  forester's,  and  then 
take  the  (6  min.)  footpath  to  the  left  (*Hart,  Hub,  Dagsburg'), 
which  soon  affords  a  view  (r.)  of  the  Dagsburg.  We  proceed  past  the 
Geisfddwasen  (whence  a  red-marked  path  leads  to  the  Obersteigen 
and  Wangenbnrg  road)  to  the  (40  mln.)  Hart,  whence  by  the  wall  of 
the  farmyard,  we  descend  to  the  right,  following  the  red  way-marks. 
1/2  lir.  Auf  der  Hub  (Kimmenau's  Inn) ,  the  chnrch  of  which  has 
been  conspicuous  for  some  time. 

Passing  the  E.  side  of  the  church,  we  reach  (20  miD.)  the  ZolUtock  Inn, 
on  the  road  to  Obersteigen-Wangenburg  (ca.  5  !!.)• 

A  route  leads  towards  the  wood  from  Kimmenau's  inn,  descends 
into  the  valley,  and  then  ascends  again  in  1  hr.  to  the  Dagflbnrg 
(1676  ft.),  a  lofty.  Isolated  rock,  commanding  an  excellent  view. 
The  castle,  'hewn  in  a  rock  and  inhabited  by  certain  Counts  of 
Leiningen-Dagsperg'  (Merian,  1663),  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1676,  and  has  left  scarcely  a  trace  behind.  On  its  site  stands 
a  chapel  (with  view-tower)  erected  in  honour  of  Pope  Leo  IX. 
(104S-64) ,  who  is  said  to  hive  been  born  here.  At  the  foot  of  the 
castle-hill  lies  (Y4  hr.)  the  village  of  Dagsburg  (Schlossberg-Hotel, 
on  the  way  down,  very  fair;  Bour,  Eeibel,  in  the  village). 

The  road  from  Dagsburg  to  (9  H.)  LfUzelhurg  station  (p.  317)  via  SchUftr- 
ho/y  NeumUhl  (near  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Zorn),  and  Sparthrod,  is  not 
recommended  to  pedestrians. 

Fbou  Daosbubo  to  Wanobnbdbo  ,  a  pleasant  walk  of  2i/s  hrs.  The 
path,  furnished  with  guide-posts,  skirts  the  cliffs  of  Dagsburg  (without 
entering  the  village),  and,  after  passing  the  forester's  house  on  the  ridge, 
reaches  (i  hr.)  the  jSchleife,  a  clearing  in  the  woods,  where  the  road  makes 
a  wide  curve.  Ck)ntinuing  in  the  same  direction  by  the  path  indicated  by 
guide-posts,  we  descend  into  the  Sngen-Thal,  and  then,  ascending  to  the 
right,  reach  Wangenburg  (p.  328)  in  1  hr.  more. 

43.  From  StnuEisburg  to  B&le. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  824,  340. 

89  M.  Eailwat  in  2V4-4V*  hrs.  (fares  11  UT  30,  7  UT  50,  4  UT  80  pf.  5  ex- 
press, 12  .J  90,  9  Ui^  10,  6  .J  40  pf.).  For  travellers  in  the  other  direction 
the  German  custom-house  examination  takes  place  in  Bale. 

Strassburg,  see  p.  302.  The  line  to  Kehl  (p.  375)  diverges  to 
the  left  before  we  cross  the  fortifications.  To  the  right  lies  Koniga- 
hofen,  where  the  capitulation  of  Strassburg  was  signed  in  a  railway- 
van  in  Sept.,  1870.  The  line  to  MoUktim  (p.  327)  diverges  to  tbe 
right  beyond  the  fortifications.  On  the  left  the  tower  of  the  cathedral 
long  remains  visible,  on  the  right  we  observe  the  new  fortifications 
of  Wolfisheim  (Fort  Prince  Bismarck)  and  LmgoUheim  (Fort  Crown 
Prince  of  Saxony").  Then  on  the  left  the  outworks  of  IlVkweh  (Fort 
Werder)  and  of  (4V2M.)  Orafenstaden  (Fort  von  derTann),  the  latter 
place  possessing  important  machine-factories.  6^2  M.  OeispoUkeim; 
71/2  M.  Fegersheim;  10  M.  Limeraheim;  I2V2  M.  Erstein  (Lowe),  a 
town  with  5600  inhab.  (steam-tramway  to  Strassburg,  p.  302; 
omnibus  to  Ottenheim,  p.  375). 

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SCHLETTSTADT.  43,  Route.   321 

The  line  now  runs  nearer  the  mountains.  The  Odlllenberg 
(p.  334),  with  its  white  convent,  is  long  a  conspicuous  object.  The 
land  is  fertile  and  well-cultivated,  tobacco  being  one  of  the  principal 
crops.  The  hill-slopes  are  covered  with  vineyards ,  the  best  wine 
being  produced  at  Rappoltsweiler,  Tiirkheim,  Thann,  etc. 

14V«  M.  Matzenheim;  17  M.  Benfeld;  20  M.  Kogmheim; 
22 V2  M.  Ebershehn,  On  a  hill  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Leber-Thal  rise  the  old  castles  of  Ortenberg  and  Ramstein(see  p.  333), 

27  M.  Bchlettstadt  (676  ft.;  AdUr  ^  Boek,  very  fair;  OoUnes 
Lamm ;  Hanser,  Andlauer,  near  the  station ;  carr.  to  the  Hoh-Konigs- 
burg  20  Uf),  a  town  with  9500  inhab.,  once  a  free  city  of  the  German 
Empire,  attained  the  height  of  its  prosperity  during  the  13-15th 
centuries.  It  was  fortified  by  Vauban  after  its  capture  by  the 
French,  but  was  taken  by  the  Germans  on  25th  Oct.,  1870.  The 
church  of  St.  Fides  ^  founded  in  1094  by  the  Hohenstaufen ,  but 
completed  at  a  later  period,  an  edifice  in  the  Romanesque  and  Tran- 
sitional styles,  with  a  porch,  three  apses,  three  towers,  and  some 
interesting  carving  on  the  exterior,  is  a  memorial  of  the  town's 
former  importance.  So ,  likewise ,  is  the  cathedral  of  St.  Qeorge, 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  Gothic  architecture  in  Alsace,  a  cruci- 
form church  with  an  octagonal  tower,  founded  early  in  the  13th  cent., 
and  lately  restored.  The  choir  was  begun  in  1415.  Fine  stained 
glass.  At  the  entrance  of  the  choir  are  two  carved  stone  pulpits, 
and  below  It  is  a  good  crypt.  —  Railway  to  Markirch  and  Weiler, 
see  p.  336;  to  Zabem,  see  pp.  333,  332,  and  327. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  halfway  up  the  hill,  is  the  ruin  of  Kinz- 
heim  (p.  336).  3OV2  M.  St.  Pilt;  the  village  (Krone)  is  about  3  M. 
from  the  station,  and  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  lofty  Hoh- 
Konigshurg  (p.  338);  farther  on  is  the  Tannchel  (p.  338). 

33  M.  BappoltBweiler  (603  ft.),  21/2  M.  from  the  station,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam-tramway  (fares  35,  26  pf.),  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains.    Above  it  rise  three' castles  (p.  339). 

35  M.  Ostheim;  38  M.  BennweieVj  to  the  right  of  which  is  the 
opening  of  the  Weissthal  (Kaysersberg,  see  p.  341).  To  the  right 
Is  the  (Jalz  (p.  345),  beside  it  Drei  iEhren  (p.  346),  and  behind  are 
the  Kleine  and  Grosse  Hohnack  (p.  345). 

4OV2M.  Colmar.  —  Hotels.  •HaTBL  TERMINU8  (PI.  z;  A,  3),  opposite 
the  station,  with  electric  light  and  hot-air  heatiDg,  R.  2V2-5,  B.  1,  D.  21/2  Jt- 
—  Deux  Glbfs  (PI.  x^  D,  2).  at  the  corner  of  the  Schlusselgasse  and 
Langengasse,  B.  2-8,  B.  1,  D.  incl.  wine  3  Jf,  with  restaurant;  HStee/  Centbal 
(PI.  y  -,  B,  2),  Enfacher-Str.  8,  B.  IV2-2V2  J(,  B.  60  pf .,  D.  incl.  wine  IV2-2V2  Jl, 
with  restaurant :  Schwabzes  Lamm  (PI.  v;  B,  2),  by  the  Marsfeld.  —  Wine 
at  the  Kopfhavi  (PI.  b ;  C,  2).  —  Beer  at  the  Ca/4  turn  Um-tfeld  and  the  Luxho/, 
near  the  cathedral.  ~  Pat^  de  foie  gras  at  Seherer's,  Pfaffengasse. 

Colmar  (633  ft.),  a  town  with  36,600  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of 
Upper  Alsace  and  the  seat  of  the  court  of  appeal  for  Alsace  and 
German  Lorraine.  It  is  situated  on  the  Lauch,  a  tributary  of  the 
111,  and  the  Logelbach  (p.  341),  which  flow  through  the  town,  and 

Baedeker's  Rhine.   16th  Edit.  21?OOgle 


S22   Route  43.  COLMAR.  From  Strasshurg 

is  2^2  M.  from  the  mountains  and  10  M.  from  the  Rhine,  nearly 
in  a  s^aight  line  with  Freiburg  in  the  Breisgau. 

Oolmar  was  declared  a  free  town  of  the  Empire  by  the  Emp.  Fred" 
erlck  IL  in  1226,  and  became  00  powerful  that  in  1474  its  inhabitants  re- 
fused admittance  to  Charles  the  Bold.  In  the  Thirty  Tears'  War  it  was 
occupied  by  the  Swedes,  and  in  1673  by  the  French.  —  In  the  history  of 
Bhenish  art  Colmar  is  a  place  of  some  importance.  Ccupcw  Ismmann 
(d.  1466),  who  flourished  here  after  1436,  learned  oil-painting  in  the  school 
of  the  Van  Eycks  and  painted  a  large  altar-piece  for  St.  Martin's  Ghurch 
<1462).  His  pupil  Martin  Schongauer,  born  at  Colmar  about  1450  (d.  1491), 
xilso  visited  the  Netherlands.  He  is  considered  the  greatest  German  artist 
of  the  15th  cent.,  but,  as  few  of  his  paintings  have  been  preserred,  he 
must  be  judged  mainly  by  his  engravings. 

The  road  from  the  station  leads  direct  to  the  pleasant  grounds 
in  the  Champ  de  MarSj  or  Marsfeld,  in  which  a  Fountain  Monument 
(PI.  5),  by  the  Colmar  sculptor  F.  A.  Bartholdi  (well  known  by  his 
Statue  of  Liberty  in  New  York  Harbour),  was  erected  in  1857  to 
Admiral  Bruat  (d.  1855),  a  native  of  Colmar.  The  large  building 
to  the  S.  is  the  Bezirks-Prdsidium  (PI.  2;  B,  4),  or  offline  of  the  Pres- 
ident of  the  District  (formerly  the  Prefecture).  On  the  W.  is  the 
new  Post  Office.  The  Monument  of  Oeneral  Rapp  (PL  7),  another 
native  of  Colmar  (1772-1821),  is  also  by  Bartholdi. 

In  striking  contrast  to  this  quite  modern  part  of  the  town  is 
the  inner  town,  with  its  narrow,  picturesque  streets  and  numerous 
handsome  secular  buildings  of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries  (the 
most  important  are  marked  in  the  plan).  In  the  centre  rises  the 
restored  Church  of  St.  Martin  (PI.  11 ;  C,2,3),  a  fine  cruciform  Gothic 
building,  with  marks  of  French  influence,  begun  in  1237.  The  choir, 
with  a  narrow  ambulatory  and  good  stained  glass  of  the  15th  cent., 
'dates  from  1350.  The  fine  carved  reredos  at  the  high-altar  is  modern. 
Of  the  two  W.  towers,  that  on  the  S.  alone  is  partly  completed.  The 
S.  side-portal  has  interesting  sculptures,  which  are,  however,  in- 
ferior to  the  contemporary  work  at  Strassburg  Minster  (13th  cent.). 
The  sacristy,  to  the-  right  of  the  choir,  contains  a  'Madonna  in  an 
arbour  of  roses'  by  Schongauety  an  excellent,  though  harsh  work,  the 
earliest  and  best-authenticated  production  of  the  master  (retouched). 

The  buildings  of  the  old  Dominican  Nunnery  of  Vnterlindeny 
founded  in  1232,  famous  in  the  history  of  the  Qerman  Mysticism 
of  the  13th  and  14th  cent.,  and  suppressed  during  the  Frencii  Revo- 
lution, were  restored  in  1849-58,  and,  together  with  the  early 
Gothic  church,  have  been  tastefully  converted  into  a  *Mu8eum 
(PI.  12;  B,  2),  which  is  of  some  importance  to  students  of  German 
art  (open  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  2-6,  winter  2-4,  gratis ;  on  other  days, 
8-12  and  2-6,  for  a  fee;  entr.  on  the  W.  side,  opposite  the  theatre). 

To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  the  Flkischhadeb  Boom,  containing  antiqui- 
ties from  Colmar  and  other  Alsatian  towns.  Roman,  Celtic,  Allemanian,  and 
Prankish  antiquities,  cork  models  of  Alsatian  buildings,  and  old  furniture. 

In  front  are  the  fine  early-Gothic  Cloisters,  which  contain  a  collec- 
tion of  Roman-Gallic  and  medieeval  stone  monuments,  including  a  Roman 
roof- shaped  tombstone  from  Eempel  (No.  18),  a  number  of  interesting 
Roman  tomb-reliefs  from  Horburg,  tombstones  from  Colmar  and  neigh- 


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toBdU.  EGISHEIM.  43.  Route.   323 

bourhood,  and  medieeval  wood-carvings.  In  the  centre  is  a  fine  Monument 
to  8ehongauer^  l>y  Bartholdi. 

To  the  S.  is  the  old  Abbet  Ghubch,  containing  a  few  modem  paintings 
and  the  ^Colleotion  of  Early  German  Pictures. 

To  ttie  left  (K.):  137,  143.  Ccupar  Isenmanny  Scenes  from  the  Passion, 
almost  burlesqued  in  their  crude  realism*,  115-130.  Passion  scenes  by  M. 
Schongauer  and  his  assistants. 

In  the  middle,  132-136.  Sehongauer^  Altar-wings  with  the  Madonna  and 
St.  Anthony  Abbas  inside  and  the  Aimanciation  outside;  179-182.  Scenes 
of  martyrdom  (painted  at'  the  Monastery  of  Isenheim,  near  Gebweiler,  and 
dated  1505):  panels  with  six  saints,  from  Eappoltsweiler  (presented  by 
Emp.  William  I.  in  1882). 

Apbb.  The  three  painted  and  carved  wooden  ^Figures  of  SS.  Anthony, 
Jerome,  and  Augustine  were  part  of  the  famous  altar  at  Isenheim.  The 
painted  wings  of  the  altar  (Kos.  163-171)  are  also  preserved  here.  The 
Entombment  (predella),  by  Matthias  GrUnewald  (d.  after  1525),  the  chief 
Bhenish  painter  at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  is  his  best-authenticated 
work.  Another  piece  of  painted  wood-carving,  representing  Christ  and  the 
Apostles  (according  to  the  inscription  by  Det.  Beychel^  1493),  is  also  from 
Isenheim.  To  the  left:  161.  Pieta,  by  an  unknown  master*,  157, 158.  Wings 
of  the  80-ealled  'Stauffenberg  Altar'  -,  112.  Portrait  of  Schongauw.  —  The  nave 
of  the  church  contains  a  large  Roman  mosaic  pavement  from  Bergheim, 

On  the  Uppbb  Floob  of  the  monastery  are  a  Natural  History  Collection^ 
an  Ethnographical  Collection^  a  Cabinet  of  Engravings^  and  the  Library. 

Railway  from  Colmar  to  Mnnster,  see  p.  344;  to  /''f*ef'&ur^,  see  pp.  384, 
383.  —  Steam-tramways  to  Winzenheim  (3  M. ;  p.  344),  to  Schnierlach  (p.  341), 
and  to  Btrassburg  (p.  303). 

Beyond  Colmar  we  observe  on  the  right  the  castle  of  Hohlands-' 
hurg  (see  p.  344).  —  44  M.  Egisheim.  The  village  (1700  Inhab.), 
which  is  1  M.  from  the^  station,  contains  a  recently  restored  palace 
('Pfalz'),  that  is  said  to  date  back  to  the  8th  cent,  (the  chapel, 
dedicated  to  Pope  Leo  IX.,  is  modern ;  comp.  p.  320).  Above  the 
village  stands  the  castle  of  Hohen- Egisheim  or  Dreien-Egiaheimj  with 
its  three  towers,  which  have  been  for  some  time  visible  in  the  dis- 
tance :  the  Dagsburg^  of  the  12th,  and  the  Wahlenburg  and  Wekmund, 
of  the  11th  cent.,  together  known  as  the  ^Drei-Exen'.  The  route 
from  the  station  to  the  castle  is  by  the  village  of  Hdusem,  whence  a 
footpath  ascends  through  wood.  —  The  descent  may  be  made  to  the 
S.  by  the  Augustine  abbey  of  Marbach  (now  a  farm  and  inn),  founded 
in  1094,  of  which  a  tower,  part  of  the  church-choir,  and  a  few  Roman- 
esque columns  of  the  cloisters  are  still  extant. 

45  M.  Herlisheim.  —  49V2M.BTifacli(670ft.;  Bar,  very  fair),  the 
Rubeacum  of  the  Romans,  a  town  of  2900  Inhab.,  with  an  agricul- 
tural school  The  *Chureh  of  8t.  Arbogaat,  a  cruciform  vaulted 
basilica,  with  an  octagonal  tower  over  the  crossing,  erected  at  the 
close  of  the  12th  cent.,  partly  in  the  Transition,  and  partly  in  the 
Gothic  style,  has  lately  been  restored.  The  choir  dates  from  the  be- 
ginning of  the  14th  century.  Close  to  the  town  is  a  hill,  which  is 
crowned  by  the  castle  of  Isenburg,  a  modern  erection  on  the  found- 
ations of  one  of  the  oldest  castles  in  Alsace,  frequently  occupied  by 
the  Merovingian-Frankish  kings. 

Sulxmatt,  a  small  watering-place  in  a  pretty  side-valley,  lies  4V2  H.  to 
the  W.  of  Rufach.  Diligence  four  times  daily  in  1  hr.  The  water  resem- 
bles that  of  Selters,  and  is  much  in  vogue  in  Alsace.  C^ooolp 


324  Route  43.  MULHAUSEN.  From  Stianburg 

527«  M.  Metxheim.  To  the  ri^t,  in  the  distance,  is  tli«  Kahle 
Wasen  (p.  346),  and  lieyond  it  the  Grosse  Belchen  (p.  349).  — 
57  M.  BoUweiler  (784  ft.),  the  junction  for  Lautenbach  (see  p.  348). 
The  Baumann  Arborieultwal  Schools  here  are  the  oldest  and  most 
extensiye  in  Alsace. 

A  narrow-gauge  railway  runs  from  BoUweiler,  vii  FeWarch  and  Ungers- 
heim^  to  (I'/s^O  Enuaheim  (Krone)^  a  small, town  with  2600  inhah.,  once 
the  capital  of  the  Austrian  possessions  in  Alsace.  It  is  interesting  for  its 
many  specimens  of  secular  edifices  of  the  15th  and  16th  centuries,  chiefly 
in  the  Renaissance  style,  especially  the  imposing  Rathhcnu,  with  its  hand- 
some oriel ,  containing  a  meteoric  stone ,  which  fell  liere  in  1492.  Tbe 
Jesuit  college  is  now  a  penitentiary.  The  railway  continues  N.  to  ffT'/z  M.) 
Colmar  (p.  321).  —  Steam-tramway  to  MUlhausen  (10  M. ;  see  below). 

The  Thur  is  now  crossed.  —  ^OM.  Wittelsheim;  63 V2M.  it«tt<r- 
haeh  (junction  for  Thann  and  Masmunstei,  p.  349).  Here  the  train 
leaves  the  mountains,  turns  to  the  E.,  and  reaches  (65  M.)  Dornoch, 
an  industrial  suburb  of  Miilhausen.  The  photographs  of  Braun, 
GMment,  &  Oo.  of  Dornacli  are  well  known  in  France  and  Oeimany. 

67  M.  MftUkansen.  —  Hotels.  ^Gkntsal  Hotel  (PI.  £,  6),  with  good 
restaurant,  B.  21/2-6,  B.  1,  d^j.  3,  D.  3VsUV^  *HdTEL  Waokek  (F1.  E,  5), 
B.  2-8,  B.  1,  D.  3,  S.  21/2  Jf;  Hot.  db  l^Edbope,  B.  2-3  UT,  B.  80pf.,  not 
far  from  the  station. 

Bestaurants.  Bail.  Restaurant;  Federmann^  Molly  Keuquartier-Platz 
(PI.  E,  6);  Landtoerlin,  Bathhaus-Durchgang  (PI.  D,  6).  —  Beer  at  the  BUrger- 
hr&Uy  iMxhofy  SehiUztnhatts^  and  Spatenbr&u. 

Cah^  1  •#  60  pf.  per  hour.  —  Electric  Tramway  through  the  town.  — 
Bteam  Tramways  to  Ensisheim  (10  H.;  see  above),  Pfastatt  (3  H.),  and 
Wittenheim  (5  M.).  * 

Bravn't  Photogra^^  Baseler  Thor  18  (PI.  E,  5,  6), 

Mulhausen  (785  ft.),  in  the  Sundgau ,  once  a  free  city  of  the 
German  Empire,  and  from  1515  to  1798  allied  with  the  Swiss  Confed- 
eration, is  now  the  most  important  manufacturing  town  in  Alsace 
(cotton  goods,  chemicals,  paper,  iron-ware,  machinery,  etc.).  It  is 
the  seat  of  government  for  the  district,  with  a  provincial  tribunal 
and  88,500  inhabitants. 

Leaving  the  Railway  Station  (PL  E,  F,  7)  and  proceeding  a  few 
paces  towards  the  right,  we  cross  the  Rhine -Rhone  Canal  and  enter 
the  New  Quabtbe  of  the  town,  with  its  large  but  unattractive  houses, 
many  of  which  have  wide,  arched  porticoes  on  the  groundfloor.  Here 
is  situated  the  large  building  of  the  SociitS  IndwtrielU  (PI.  E,  6), 
an  association  formed  in  1825  for  the  promotion  of  industrial  and 
Scientific  interests  of  all  kinds.  It  contains  natural  history  collections 
and  a  library.  Adjacent,  in  the  Nordstaden,  is  the  imposing  new 
Post  Office  (PI.  E,  6).  The  Museum  (PI.  F,  6),  established  by  the 
Socl^t^  Industrielle  in  1882,  contains  an  interesting  collection  of 
Romano-Celtic  Antiquities,  most  of  them  found  in  Alsace,  and  the 
Historical  Museum,  a  collection  of  objects  illustrative  of  local  history. 
On  the  second  floor  is  a  Picture  OaUery,  with  a  few  good  specimens 
of  modern  French  masters. 

Proceeding  straight  on,  we  enter  the  Baseler-Thor-Strasse,  the 
main  street  of  the  Old  Town.  A  street,  diverging  to  the  left,  leads 

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to  B&le.  ALTKIROH.  43,  Route.  325 

to  the  Rathbaus-Platz,  in  wMch  is  the  Raihhaus  (PL  D,  6),  erected 
in  1552  after  a  flie,  and  restored  in  1846,  a  solitary  witness  of  the 
ancient  importance  of  Miilhausen  as  a  free  imperial  city.  The  whole 
of  the  facade  was  painted  by  Christian  Vacksterffer  of  Colmar.  Op- 
posite the  Rathhaus  is  the  modern-Gothic  Protestant  Church  (PI.  D, 

6,  6\  with  a  very  showy  facade.  —  The  School  of  Design  (PI.  B,  C, 
5,  6j  contains  an  Interesting  and  extensiye  collection  of  patterns 
and  designs  for  dress  goods,  chiefly  produced  by  Miilhansen  firms. 

The  Abbbitbbstadt  (PI.  A,  B,  3, 4),  or  artizans*  colony,  founded 
in  1853  by  the  *Socitft^  des  Cit^s  Ouvrieres',  a  society  established  by  the 
Mayor  Dollftiss  to  improve  the  condition  of  the  working  classes,  lies  to 
the  N.W.  of  the  old  town  (follow  the  main  road  and  then  tnm  to  the 
left).  It  now  consists  of  about  1000  houses  of  one  or  two  stories, 
each  accommodating  one  or  two  families,  and  provided  with  a  small 
garden.  There  are  also  large  bath  and  washing  houses,  an  infant 
school,  etc.,  connected  with  the  colony.  The  houses  were  sold  to  arti- 
zans  almost  at  cost-price  (2500-3000  Jf),  payable  by  instalments. 
The  workmen,  however,  tend  more  and  more  to  live  in  the  remoter 
suburbs,  coming  to  the  factories  by  rail ,  and  the  Arbeiterstadt  is 
now  largely  occupied  by  small  shopkeepers  and  the  like. 

Near  the  station  (to  the  S.£.)  rises  the  Rbbbsbo,  with  several 
pretty  villas,  the  town-reservoir  (view),  and  the  Zoological  Owrden 
(best  reached  by  the  Brubacher-Str.  or  the  Winzerhiittenweg ;  PI.  F, 

7,  8).  Higher  up  is  the  Tannenwald,  which  commands  a  beautiful 
view. 

From  MGlhadsen  to  MOllhbim  (in  Baden),  ISVs  M.,  railway  in 
V«-*/«  hr.  (fares  2  UT  10,  i  UT  60,  95  pf.).  —  3  M.  Napoleons-Insel^  on  the 
Rhine-Rhone  Canal,  with  large  paper-mills.  The  train  then  traverses  the 
extensive  HartwOd.  7  H.  ChrUnMUe,  —  9  M.  Bansenheimy  2V3  M.  to  the  8. 
of  which  lies  OttmarMheim^  with  an  intereating  octagonal  chapel,  con- 
secrated  in  the  middle  of  the  ilth  cent,  and  belonging  to  a  suppressed 
Benedictine  abbey.  It  is  bnilt  on  the  model  of  the  Garlovingian  cathedral 
at  Aix-la-Ghapelle.  —  The  Rhine  is  then  crossed.  12  M.  Jfeumburg.  —  iByt  H. 
MmiheHn,  see  p.  885. 

FsoM  HfiLHADSBN  TO  Bblfort  ,  31  M.,  railway  in  1V4-3  hrs.  (fares 
4  uriO,  2  ur  90.  1  Ur  90  pf. ;  express  4  UV  60,  3  UT  40  pf.).  The  railway  as- 
cends the  smiling  valley  of  the  III.  There  were  formerly  about  20  castles 
in  the  district  traversed  by  this  line,  which,  with  numerous  villages,  have 
all  been  destroyed  by  the  ravages  of  war.  At  many  points  traces  of  Roman 
fortifications  and  roads  are  noticeable.  —  3Vs  M.  ZilUsheim;  6  H.  Hlfurt. 

lO^/zM.  Altkiroh  (954  ft.;  Oeber;  Blume\  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
slope  of  the  hill,  is  the  capital  of  the  Sundgau  in  the  narrower  sense  of 
the  name.  Pop.  8300.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the  vicinity  of  the 
church.  Small  collection  of  antiquities  in  a  medieeval  tower.  Pottery  is 
extensively  manufactured  here.  —  Almost  the  whole  of  the  Sundgau 
belonged  to  the  Counts  of  Pfirt.  whose  castle,  now  in  ruins,  is  in  the  Jura 
Mts.,  above  the  little  town  (SOOinhab.)  of  Pflrt,  Fr.  Ferette  (1540  ft.:  Stadt 
New  York,  very  fair),  15  H.  to  the  8.  of  Altkirch  (branch-line  in  11/2  hr.). 
Pflrt  lies  on  the  Swiss  frontier,  and  is  a  good  centre  for  excursions  in  the 
Alsatian  Jura,  recently  opened  up  by  the  ^Vosgea  Club'  (p.  337). 

18  H.  Damnfrkirchy  Fr.  Dannemarie  (1040  ft.).  The  train  then  crosses 
an  imposing  viaduct  with  35  arches,  and  reaches  (21  H.)  AU-Mansterot, 
Fr.  ifontreuz-Vieux  (1150  ft.),  the  German  frontier  -  station.  23  M.  Petite- 
OroiXy  the  French  frontier-station.  —  31  M,  BeVort  or  Bifort  (ffdtel  de  VArir 


326  Route  44.  THE  VOSOBS. 

cienne  Poste),  a  to'vrn  and  fortress  on  the  Savoureuse^  built  by  Vauban  under 
Louis  XIV.,  and  memorable  for  its  long  siege  by  the  Germans  from  3rd  Nov., 
1870,  to  16th  Feb.,  1871.    See  Baedeker^ $  Northtm  France, 
!Prom  Miilhausen  to  Weuerling  and  MatmOnitery  see  p.  349. 

As  far  as(70Y2^0  ^^^^^^^^^  ttKin  continues  to  run  towards  the 
E. ;  it  then  turns  to  the  S.E.  Tlie  soil  is  gravelly  and  sterile. 
711/4  M.  Hahsheim ;  TX^j^  M.  Sierentz ;  791/2  M.  Bavtenhtim,  Beyond 
(841/2  M.)  8t,  Ludwig  (or  St.  ZjouW)  the  line  enters  Switzerland. 

Fbou  St.  Litdwig  to  Lbopoldshohb  (in  Baden),  4  M.,  railway  in  1/4  hr. 
(fares  50,  35.  30  pf.).  —  IV4  M.  HUnivgen  (Hotel  de  Paris),  fortified  by 
Vauban  in  1679  and  dismantled  by  the  Austrians  in  1815.  About  3  M. 
from  the  town  lies  the  famous  piscicultural  establishment  of  HUningeny 
which  since  1852  has  been  of  great  senrice  in  replenishing  the  waters  of 
Alsace  with  fish.  A  visit  is  most  interesting  in  the  breeding-season  (Jan.- 
April).  —  4  H.  Leopoldihdhe,  see  p.  386. 

89  M.  B&le,  see  p.  386. 

44.  The  Central  and  Upper  Vosges  Mts. 

The  Vofges  (Lat.  Mom  VoseguSy  Qer.  Voges^n,  or  more  correcdy 
Waaigen  or  Wasgenwald)  form  the  western  boundary  of  the  basin 
of  the  Upper  Rhine,  and  run  parallel  with  the  Black  Forest,  with 
which  they  for  the  most  p&rt  coincide  In  orologlcal  and  geological 
characteristics.  They  are  generally  divided  into  the  Upper,  Central, 
and  Lower  Vosges.  The  Uppbb  or  High  Vosgbs  Mts.  are  separated 
from  tiie  Jura  on  the  S.  by  the  depression  of  Belfort,  and  on  the  N. 
extend  to  the  Leber-Thal  (p.  336).  They  are  almost  entirely  of 
granitic  formation ,  the  granite  being  adjoined  towards  the  N.  by 
the  red  sandstone  which  prevails  in  the  Central  and  Lower  Vosges. 
The  highest  summits  are  the  Groise  BeUhen  (4680  ft. ;  p,  349), 
the  neighbouring  Storkenkopf  (4468  ft.),  the  Hohneck  (4465  ft. ; 
p.  347),  the  Klimkopf  (4368  ft.;  p.  346),  the  Rothenbachkopf 
(4305  ft. ;  p.  347),  and  the  Kahle  Wasm  or  Kleine  Belchen  (4160  ft. ; 
p.  346).  The  Cbntbal  Yosobs  Mts.  stretch  from  the  Leber-Thal  to 
the  Zaberner  Senke  (p.  317),  the  highest  points  being  the  Hochfeld 
(3605  ft.;  p.  336),  the  Afutetp/ci*  (3310  ft.),  the  Donon  (3307  ft. ; 
p.  331),  the  aimont  (3170  ft.;  p.  330),  and  the  Odiiicwfrerjr  (2470  ft. ; 
p.  334),  a  spur  running  out  towards  the  W.  The  Lower  or  Nobth- 
BBN  V08GBS  run  northwards  from  the  Zaberner  Senke  as  far  as  the 
Queich  (p.  290) ;  and  they  are  sometimes  considered  to  include  the 
Haardt  Mts.  and  the  Donnersberg,  and  thus  to  extend  to  the  Nahe. 

Up  to  a  height  of  about  3600  ft.  these  mountains  are  covered 
with  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  pine.  The  highest  summits,  on 
which  only  grass  grows,  afford  excellent  pasturage,  and  are  exten- 
sively used  for  cattle-rearing  and  dairy-farming.  The  slopes  are 
thickly  strewn  with  ancient  castles ,  and  on  the  side  towards  Alsace 
are  covered  with  vineyards  (comp.  p.  321).  In  the  valleys,  iron- 
working,  ore-smelting,  weaving,  and  other  industries  are  actively 
prosecuted.  As  in  the  Black  Forest,  there  are  a  few  mineral  springs 
here,  but  the  Vosges  Mts.  can  scarcely  compete  with  the  sister-iange 


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WASSELNHBIM.        .      44.  BtmU.   327 

in  point  of  scenery,  as  they  lack  the  abundant  brooks  which  impart 
such  a  charm  to  the  valleys  of  the  latter.  The  most  beautiful  points 
are  the  following:  the  vicinity  of  Zabem,  the  Odilieriberg j  the 
Hoh'Konigaburgy  the  castles  of  Rappoltsweiler,  the  Miinater'Thal 
with  the  Schluchtj  the  St.  Amarin-Thal^  and  the  Masmunster-Thal. 
There  are  good  Inm  (R.  1-1 V2  ^,  B.  80  pf.,  D.  incl.  wine  2-2V2  uT, 
S.  incL  wine  1 1/2-2  ulf)  at  the  points  most  frequently  visited. 

The  ^Vosges  Glab%  instituted  in  1872 ,  has  done  much  to  facilitate  a 
tour  among  these  mountains  by  the  construction  of  paths,  the  erection 
of  flneer-posts,  etc.  It  is  publishing  a  map  of  the  district  on  a  scale  of 
1 :  60,(X)0,  of  which  13  sheets  have  appeared  (2  Jf  each),  covering  the  ground 
from  Zabem  in  the  N.  to  Gebweiler  in  the  8.  The  best  detailed  guidebook 
is  C.  MUndeVt  'Handbuch  far  die  Vogesen'  (4  •#,  smaller  edition  21/2  Jf)- 

I.  Thb  Gbntkal  Yosobs  Mts. 

Plan  of  Toub.  The  most  interesting  points  in  the  Central  Yosges 
may  be  conveniently  visited  in  five  days  by  following  the  'Hauptroute%  or 
'Main  Route",  Indicated  by  the  rectangular  red  marks  of  the  'Vosges  Club'.  -^ 
ist  Day :  From  Zabem  YiiHoh-Barr,  Haheracker^  and  Dagtburg  (comp.  pp.  319, 
320)  to  Wangenburg^  TVs-S^/s  hrs.  —  2nd  Day :  Via  the  Sehneeberg  and  the 
Nideek  to  Urmait  (p.  829),  &-5Vs  hrs.  \  in  the  afternoon  ascent  of  the  ffahn$n- 
berg.  —  3rd  Day:  Thergestell,  Muttig/elt,  Donon,  and  SeJteck  (pp.  831,  329), 
8-9  hrs.  —  4th  Day:  Strutho/^  MUns/eld,  Hoeh/dd,  and  Hohwald  (p.  329), 
6*7  hrs.  —  5th  Day:  Odilienberg^  M&nnelstein^  the  ruin  of  Landtbergy  and 
Barr  (p.  333),  6-7  hrs.  -,  railway  to  Schlettstadt. 

a«  From  Zabem  to  Moliheim.  —  Wangenbnrg.  Sehneeberg. 

From  Zabem  to  Molsfuttny  20  M.,  Railway  in  about  1  hr.  (fares  1  Jf  70, 
1  «#  10  pf.).  —  From  Romansweiler  to  Wangenburg,  Omnibus  thrice  daily 
in  summer  in  IVs  hr.  (1  Jf). 

Zabern^  see  p.  316.  —  2^2  M.  OttersweiUr. 

5  M.  Xaiinm&nster,  Fr.  Marmoutier  (Krone;  Zwei  Schlusseljy 
a  small  town  with  1850  inhabitants.  The  Church  of  8L  Maurws, 
which  belonged  to  an  ancient  and  once  powerful  Benedictine  abbey, 
now  suppressed,  possesses  a  handsome  late-Romanesque  facade  and 
a  vaulted  vestibule  (a  favourite  style  in  Alsace ;  comp.  the  church 
of  St.  Fides  at  Schlettstadt,  and  the  church  at  Gebweiler). 

9  M.  Romansweiler,  (Route  to  Wangenbnrg,  see  p.  328.)  — 
10  M.  PapiermuhUy  with  large  cement-works. 

11  M.  Wasselnheim,  French  Wasselonne  (^Railway  Hotel,  well 
spoken  of),  a  town  with  3700  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the  Mossig^ 
with  the  rains  of  an  old  castle,  and  extensive  stocking-factories. 

121/2  M.  Wangen;  I33/4M.  Marleriheim^  the  traditionary  home  of 
the  Nibelungen  hero,  Hagen  von  Troneck ;  141/4  M.  Kirchheim ; 
151/2  M.  Scharraehbergheim  J  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  which  lies  West- 
ho  fen,  with  a  handsome  Gothic  church  of  the  14th  cent. ;  17*/4  M. 
Sulzbad,  —  18  M.  Avolsheimy  a  village  with  an  interesting  parish 
church  of  the  16th  century.  About  8/4  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  a  Roman- 
esque church  of  the  11th  cent.  ('Dom-Peter'),  the  nave  of  which 
has  a  flat  roof. 

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328    Route  44.      .  MOLSHEIM.  The  Central 

20  M.  MoUheimy  the  jtmction  of  the  Strassburg  Mid  Stales,  and 
of  the  Strasaburg,  Molsheim,  and  Schlettstadt  railways,  see  below 
and  p,  332. 

Fbom  Romanswbilbe  to  Wanobnbubg,  7  M.  (omnibns,  see 
p.  327).  Th«  road  crosses  the  MoMig^  and  then  ascends  the  wooded 
and  confined  valley  watered  by  that  stream.  Pedestrians  may  save 
about  2  M.  by  short-cnts. 

From  Zabem  to  Wangeriburg^  10  M.,  see  pp.  318,  320. 

Wangenhnrg  (1486  ft.  j  *H6tel  Wangenburg,  R.  from  1  Vs,  I>.  with 
wine  2'/2,  pens.  4^2-5  Jf ;  Schneeherg,  cheap),  a  small,  scattered 
village,  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  that  name  (built  in 
the  13th  cent.),  is  beautifully  situated  among  meadows  surrounded 
by  pine-forest,  and  frequently  visited  in  summer  on  account  of  the 
purity  of  its  air. 

The  route  from  Wangenburg  to  (1 1/2  ^^'  >  red  marks)  the  top  of 
the  Schneeberg  (3150  ft.)  diverges  to  the  left  near  the  churchy  passes 
a  new  red  house ,  and ,  by  a  solitary  house  on  the  margin  of  the 
wood,  ascends  to  the  left  (footpath ;  finger-post)  to  the  rocky  summit, 
just  below  which  a  shelter-hut  has  been  built.  The  top  (mountain- 
indicator)  commands  an  extensive  *View  over  Alsace  (to  the  E.), 
the  plain  of  Lorraine  (to  the  W.),  and  the  Vosges.  The  *Lottel- 
fels',  at  the  W.  corner,  is  a  *rocking-stone'  which  may  be  set  in 
motion  by  stepping  on  it.  Between  the  summit  and  the  hut  is  a 
finger-post  showing  the  way  to  the  Donon  (red  marks). 

A  good  path  (not  to  be  mistaken)  descends  to  the  S.  in  ^/^  hr. 
to  the  forester's  house  of  Nideck  (p.  330).  Thence  to  Nideck  Castle 
(see  p.  331),  V4  ^^' '  on  quitting  the  house,  we  turn  to  the  right 
along  the  carriage-road,  from  which  a  path  diverges  to  the  left  in 
7  min.,  reaching  the  castle  in  6  min.  more.  To  Urmatt,  see  p.  329. 

b.  From  Strassbnrg  to  Saales.  —  Brenschthal.  Donon. 

38  H.  Railway  in  3-SVs  hrs.  -,  fares  4  UT  90,  8  UT  90,  2  UT  10  pf. 

Strassburgy  see  p.  302.  —  Several  unimportant  stations. 

12  M.  Molsheim  (575  ft. ;  Zwei  Schlussel;  Rail,  Restaurant)y  a 
small  town  with  3100  inhab.  on  the  Breuschy  at  the  foot  of  the  Vosges, 
a  fortified  place  in  the  middle  ages.  In  the  handsome  meat-market 
here  the  forms  of  the  Renaissance  are  combined  with  the  articula- 
tion of  Gothic  architecture.  The  church  (formerly  the  property  of 
the  Jesuits)  is  partly  Gothic  and  partly  in  the  Renaissance  style. 
—  Molsheim  is  the  junction  for  the  Zabern  and  the  Schlettstadt 
lines  (see  above  and  p.  332). 

The  Saales  line  ascends  the  pleasant  green  valley  of  the  Breusch, 
which  is  enclosed  by  wooded  heights  and  rocks  of  red  porphyry. 
The  stream  descends  from  the  Winberg  or  Glimont. 

14  M.  Kntzig  (615  ft. ;  FeUburg;  Zur  Po8t)y  a  small  town  of 
2800  inhabitants.    To  the  right,  on  the  Molsheimer  Berg^  is  the 

oogle 


Vosgea.  GHtBADEN.  44.  Route.   329 

large  Fort  Emperor  William  II.  —  15V2  M.  GressweiUr.  —  17V2  M. 
Heiligenberg  is  the  most  convenient  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the 
ruin  of  Girbaden  (l^/g  hr.;  finger-posts. 

From  the  railway-station  a  footpath  leads  to  the  W.  and  enters  the 
wood.  40  min.  Finger-post  pointing  to  the  OrauieMagfeU.  In  40  znin. 
more,  latterly  on  the  Urmatt  road,  we  reach  the  forester's  house  of  Gir- 
baden, whence  the  road  (better  views  than  from  the  footpath)  leads  in 
10  min.  to  the  mjn. 

BohloBS  Oirhaden  (1865  ft.),  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  extensive  for- 
tresses in  Alsace,  is  said  once  to  have  possessed  14  gates  and  14  court- 
yards, and  is  still  an  imposing  ruin.  The  inner  castle  dates  from  the  10th, 
the  imposing  outer  castle  from  the  early  part  of  the  18th  century.  In  the 
W.  portion  a  hall,  the  handsome  windows  of  which  are  bordered  with 
clustered  pillars,  is  still  traceable.  Beside  the  square  W.  tower  is  the 
Chapd  of  St.  Valentine.    Good  view  from  the  E.  wall  of  the  ruin. 

On  the  S.  slope  of  the  ridge,  */i  M.  from  Girbaden,  lies  Orendelbruch 
(ffdtel  Weber  ^  pens.  4  UlOi  »  favourite  summer-resort.  A  pretty  walk 
through  the  wood  leads  hence  to  (IV4  hr.)  Urmatt  station;  on  the  way 
another  path  branches  off  to  the  Hahnenberg  (view-platform). 

20  M.  Urmatt  (765  ft. ;  Pott,  R.  II/2  uT,  very  fair)  is  the  starting- 
point  for  a  visit  to  Nideek  Castle^  and  for  the  ascent  of  the  Donon  (see 
p.  331)*  —  Above  this  point  French  is  the  language  of  the  valley. 
The  cvrlons  mixed  patois  of  French,  German,  and  Celtic,  now  rapidly 
disappearing,  is  of  interest  to  philologists  (grammar  by  Oberlin). 

From  Urmatt  vi4  the  Hahnenberg  to  Grendelbruch,  see  above. 

22V2  M.  Lutzelhausen  (833  ft. ;  Zwei  Schlussel),  a  large  village, 
whence  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  vi^  the  Orande  C6te  (in 
German  Langenberg\  between  the  Mntzigfels  and  Narionfels,  to 
the  Alberschweiler-Thal  (v.  318;  8  hrs.).  —  24  M.  Wisch  (Donon 
InnV  —  24 V2  M.  Russ-Hersbach, 

26'/4  M.  Schirmeck-Vorbrnck  (1030  ft.;  Hot.  Vogt,  R.  1 1/2-2, 
J).  21/2  ^j  in  Vorbmck;  Hdt.  Donon,  H$t.  Velleda,  in  Schirmeck, 
1/4  M.  from  the  station,  both  very  fair),  two  busy  little  places,  separated 
by  the  Breusch.  Vorbruck,  Fr.  Labroque,  with  the  rail,  station  and 
1600  inhab. ,  is  on  the  left  bank,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Framont; 
Schirmeck  (1700  inhab.)  lies  on  the  right  bank  and  is  commanded 
by  the  (I/4  hr.)  Schlossberg ,  on  which  are  a  ruined  castle  of  the 
Bishops  of  Strassburg  and  a  modern  statue  of  the  Virgin  (view). 

Fbou  Schikmbck  to  Hohwald,  4-4V2  hrs.  We  ascend,  following  the 
red  marks,  to  the  (IV2  hr.)  Sfruthof  (29^  ft.;  good  rustic  ino).  Farther 
on  we  follow  a  cart-road  and  after  V2  !>'•  ascend  by  a  footpath  io  the 
right  to  (20  min.)  the  MUntfeld  (3380  ft.).  At  (25  min.)  the  cross-roads  we 
may  either  follow  the  white  marks  (straight  on)  to  the  RathearrJuiuien-Stein 
and  (1V«  hr.)  Hochfeld  (p.  385)  or  the  red  and  white  marks  (left)  to  the 
solitary  inn  of  (»/«  hr.)  Roihktch  (p.  885),  then  via  the  Ntvntenetein  (p.  335) 
to  (IV4  hr.)  Hohwald  (p.  835).  —  From  the  Neuntenstein  we  may  proceed 
to  (20  min.)  the  forester's  house  of  WeUchbnich  (inn),  whence  a  new  road 
leads  to  (41/2  H.)  the  Odilim  Convent  (p.  834). 

28  M.  Botbau  (1 105  ft. ;  Z%rei  Schlussel,  very  fair),  a  busy  village, 
with  1600  inhabitants.  The  ruined  castle  of  Salm,  41/2  M.  to  the 
W.,  was  the  seat  of  the  Princes  of  Sahn,  to  whom  the  whole  district 
belonged.  About  V2  M.  from  the  castle  is  the  hamlet  of  Salm. 
The  view-tower  on  the  Katzenstein,  or  Chatte  Pendue,  2  M.  farther 


330  Route  44.  HASLACH.  The  Centra 

on,  affords  a  good  view  of  the  Hochfeld,  the  yalley.of  the  Breusch, 
and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine. 

Fbou  Rothau  to  Hohwald,  4V2-5  hrs.  A  pleasaat  path  leads,  via  (3  M.) 
Natzweiler  and  past  the  Cascade  de  Serva  and  the  farm  of  Morel  (rfints.)^  to 
the  (3  hrs.)  Hochfeld  (p.  335).    Descent  to  Eohwald  (p.  336),  IVs  br- 

31  M.  Urbach,  French  Fouday  (Post J ^  at  the  union  of  the  Cher^ 
goutte  with  the  Breusoh. 

Urbach  belongs,  like  Rothau  and  five  other  villages,  to  the  ancient 
lordship  of  Steinthal^  Fr.  Ban  de  la  Roche^  which  has  been  a  desolate 
and  sparsely- peopled  district  since  the  time  of  the  Thirty  Tears'  War. 
The  places  named  owe  their  prosperity  and  comparative  popnlonsness  to 
the  praiseworthy  philanthropic  exertions  of  Johann  Friedrieh  Oberlin  (b.  at 
Strassbnrg  1740,  d.  1826),  who  is  bnried  in  the  churchyard  of  tJrbach. 

The  Hochfeld  may  be  reached  from  IJrbaeh  in  about  3  hrs.,  vi4 
Walderibaehj  where  Oberlin  was  a  Protestant  pastor,  and  the  forester^s 
house  Schirrgut  (rfmts.). 

321/2  M.  at  Blaise- Poutay;  331/8  M.  Saulxures  (UIQ  ft.); 
37  M.  Bowg-Bruche  (1627  ft.). 

38  M.  Saales  (1830  ft. ;  HdL  de  V Europe;  H6U  du  Commerce), 
the  tenninuB  of  the  railway,  lies  dose  to  the  frontier.  —  A  pleasant 
walk  may  be  taken  hence  to  Weiler  (p.  336),  mi  Voyemont^  the 
CWmont i (3170  ft.;  view-towei),  and  the  ruin  otBUttevn;  or  from 
the  farms  of  Climont  we  may  follow  the  frontier  to  the  8t  Diedder 
Hohe  and  thence  descend  by  road  to  Mtirkirch  (p.  337). 

Haslach  Valley.  Nieder-Haslach  is  fully  11/2  M.  by  road  from 
the  station  of  Urmatt  (p.  329).  Pedestrians,  who  have  already  visited 
the  church  of  Nieder-Haslach,  should  take  the  footpath  (red  marks) 
diverging  to  the  right  a  few  paces  to  the  W.  of  the  station  at  Urmatt, 
which  leads  through  meadows  and  wood  and  joins  the  undermen- 
tioned road  in  1^/4  hr.,  shortly  before  the  mouth  of  the  valley  of 
the  Nideck. 

Kieder-HaBlach  (730  ft.;  Delcomirute,  opposite  the  church,  very 
fair ;  Apfel ;  Krone),  formerly  the  seat  of  a  convent.  The  large  Gothic 
church  of  8t,  Florian  possesses  beautiful  old  stained-glass  windows, 
and  fine  Gothic  sculptures  on  the  W.  portal.  The  body  of  the  church 
and  the  tower  date  from  the  14th  cent. ;  the  choir  was  begun  in 
1274 ,  and  rebuilt  in  1290  after  its  destruction  by  fire.  A  side- 
chapel  to  the  left  contains  the  tombstone  of  a  son  of  Meister  Erwin 
(Tilii  Erwini  maestri';  d.  1330). 

The  road  continues  to  ascend  the  Haslach ,  and  at  the  end  of 
(II/4  M.)  Ober-Haslach  (beer  at  Fuchslock's)  it  divides.  We  foUow 
the  branch  to  the  right,  leading  through  a  beautiful  and  gradually 
contracting  dale  to  the  (21/2  M.)  fifth  saw-mill  from  Ober-Haslach. 
A  few  paces  on  this  side  of  it  a  broad  footpath  ascends  to  tiie  right 
into  the  beautiful  pine-clad  *  Valley  of  the  Nideck,  enclosed  by  rocks 
of  porphyry,  which  vies  with  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Black  Forest. 
At  the  (1  M.)  upper  end  of  the  valley  the  Nideck  forms  a  waterfall, 
80  ft.  in  height.     High  above  it  stands  the  square  tower  of  the 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Voigei  DONON.  44.  RouU.   331 

Castle  of  Kideck  (13-14th  cent.),  called  by  an  old  tradition  the 
^plaything  of  the  giants',  to  which  a  zigzag  path  ascends  to  the  right, 
crossing  the  brook  to  the  left  above  the  waterfall.  The  tower  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  valley.  The  relief  of  Ohamisso  over  the 
entrance  refers  to  his  ballad  dealing  with  the  legend  of  the  castle. 
From  this  point  to  the  forester's  house  of  Nideck  (Inn,  very  fair), 
15-20  min.,  see  p.  328. 

From  the  forester's  house  the  Sehrueberff  (p.  328)  is  ascended  in  i>/4  hr. 
A  few  paces  to  the  right  we  enter  a  narrow  cart-road  (finger-post),  which 
preeently  degenerates  into  a  footpath.  In  about  »/<  br.  we  emerge  from 
the  wood  and  reach  the  hill,  20min.  below  the  summit.  —  Another  path 
(numerous  finger-posts),  avoiding  tbe  Schneeberg,  leads  direct  to  Wangen- 
bur^  (p.  328)  in  2  hrs.  In  good  weather,  the  route  over  the  Schneeberg 
is  preferable  (p.  328).  _________ 

The  Donon,  the  most  frequented  snmmlt  in  the  Central  Yosges, 
commanding  an  extensive  prospect,  may  be  ascended  from  Niedeck 
in  41/2,  from  Urmatt  vil  the  Mntzigfels  in  BVs"^*  o'  ^'^"^ 
Schirmeck  in  2V2-3  hrs. 

Fbom  Kideck  to  thb  Donon  (41/2  hrs.))  a  fine  forest-excursion  (finger- 
posts). About  100  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  forester's  house  we  diverge  from 
the  road  to  the  right  (Onger-post)  *,  20  min.,  fork,  where  the  Schneeberg 
route  diverges  to  the  right  {nee  above);  20  min.,  anchor  path  to  the  Schnee- 
bei«;  10 min.,  saddle;  20  min.,  the  Urttein  (3105  ft. ;  fine  view).  In  25  min. 
more  we  pass  through  a  gate  and  follow  the  road  to  the  left;  at  the 
QU  hr.)  fork  we  proceed  to  the  left,  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Orossmarm 
(2S35  ft.),  to  (10  min  )  the  flat  saddle  of  the  AUmcUt.  A  little  farther  on, 
past  the  JioU,  we  descend  a  little  to  the  left,  where  we  join  the  path  from 
the  Mutzigfels,  eiyoying  a  view  of  the  Haut  du  Narion  (2485  ft.).  11/4  hr.  Fork 
Oeft  to  Schirmeck,  right  to  the  Donon).  In  '/jhr.  more  we  reach  the  road 
between  the  Donon  and  Alberschweiler  (p.  983).  Here  we  follow  the  old 
road  to  the  left  to  (20  min.)  the  saddle  betwee  the  Great  and  the  Little 
Donon,  1/2  ^-  ^^^t^  the  summit  (see  p.  332). 

Fbom  UaifATT  to  thk  Donon.  From  the  station  we  proceed  through  the 
village  and  along  the  road  to  the  (IV4  M.)  EitMrbach-Thal,  which  we  ascend 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  through  wood  (red  mark^),  to  Kctppelbronn 
(1^4-2  hrs.  from  the  station).  An  easy  path  ascends  bence  to  the  (^4  hr.)  Thilr- 
ge$teUy  a  curiously  shaped  rock  on  the  saddle  below  the  Katzenberg  (2958  ft.), 
whence  the  commanding  Jiuteig/eh  (8310  ft.)  is  reached  in  35-40  min.  more. 
We  descend  to  the  Haut  du  Narion.  and  thence  either  take  the  shadeless  path 
(fine  views),  via  the  Narionfdi  (3278  ft.)  and  the  top  of  the  iToii  (3253  ft.),  or 
skirt  these  two  heights  to  the  S.  through  the  wood  to  (fully  1/2  l^i^O  the  W.  side 
of  the  Noll,  where  we  again  strike  the  road  from  Nideck  described  above. 

Fbom  Sohibmbok  to  thb  Donon,  2V2-3  hrs.  (several  routes).  —  A  finger- 
post near  the  station  shows  the  shortest  way  (blue  marks).  We  cross  the 
Framont  and  (5  min. ;  1.)  the  railway,  and  then  ascend  through  pasture-land 
and  a  wood  to  the  Kohlberg  road,  followine  which  we  arrive  at  the  saddle 
between  the  Qrosse  and  Kleine  Donon  (p.  8S2). 

The  carriage-road  from  Schirmeck  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Framont 
(omnibus  to  Grandfontaine,  40  pf.).  At  a  quarry,  just  beyond  the  first  kilo- 
metre-stone, a  path  (red  marks)  diverges  to  the  right,  leading  vii  Oher- 
WdKkeubach  to  the  Hdt.  VeUeda  (see  below);  and  farther  on  (IV2  M.  from 
Schirmeck),  immediately  beyond  the  church  of  Waekenhach^  another  route 
(red  and  white  marks)  diverges,  leading  straight  to  tbe  saddle  proper.  The 
latter  is  the  best  route  of  all.  —  The  carriage-road  (no  shade),  with  a 
tramway  for  the  transport  of  timber,  continues  to  ascend  the  left  bank  of 
stream.  At  a  (S'A  M.)  custom-house  we  cross  the  bridge  to  Orandfontaine^ 
and  we  ascend  thence,  passing  the  church,  to  ("A  hr.)  the  natform  of  the 
Donon  (2420  ft.;  Hdt.  Velleda,  R.  2-3,  D.  2^2^  pens.  5-6  Jf;  telephone  to 


532   Route  44,  BOSHEIM.  The  Central 

Schirmeck),  5^ fa  M.  from  SchLrmeck.  The  road  des^ibes  a  wid«  besd 
and  crosfes  the  stream  higher  up.  Beyond  the  Hotel  Velleda  it  divides : 
the  left  branch  enters  France,  the  right  branch  skirts  the  W.  slope  of  the 
Donon  and  follows  the  valley  of  the  Bothe  Saar  to  Alberschweiler  (p.  318). 
The  top  is  reached  in  >/4  hr.  by  a  foo(^ath,  diverging  to  the  right  from 
the  Alberschweiler  road,  about  250  yds.  bey(md  the  Hot.  Velleda. 

The  *I)onon  (3307  ft.)  affords  an  extensive  survey  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  of  Alsace  towards  the  W.,  and  of  the  hills  and  plain  of  Lorraine 
on  the  E.  In  clear  weather  the  Bernese  Alps  can  be  distinguished  to  the  S. 
On  the  summit  are  a  mountain-indicator  and  the  *Mus^e\  a  small  sand- 
stone 'temple%  built  in  18B9  and  containing  some  antiquities  discov^ed 
in  the  neighbourhood.  There  is  a  refuge-hut  about  30  yds.  below  the 
summit,  amid  the  rocks  on  the  side  next  the  Eleine  Donon.  —  Descent 
from  the  refnge-hut  on  the  K.E.  to  the  saddle  (2625  ft.)  between  the  Great 
and  the  Little  Donon  (3160  ft.),  see  p.  331. 

c.  Erom  Molsheim  to  Schlettstadt.  Odilienbnrg.  Hohwald. 

21  M.  Railway  in  IVi  hr.;  tbrough-csrrriages  from  Strassburg. 

Moleheim  is  tlie  junction  for  railways  to  Zabern  (p.  3(^7),  Saales 
(for  Strassburg ;  p.  328),  and  Schlettstadt  (p.  321).  —  1 V4  M.  Dorlis- 
heim,  with  a  Romanesqne  chnrch.  In  the  distance,  farther  on, 
is  Glrbaden  (p.  329). 

272  M.  Eosheim  (Pflug),  a  small  town  with  3100  inhab.,  once  a 
free  city  of  the  empire,  has  several  times  suffered  destrucUan,  but 
the  medisBval  fortifications  are  in  good  preservation,  and  the  an- 
cient tower-gates  are  still  standing.  The  Romanesque  Church  of 
88.  Peter  and  Paul  was  conseerated  in  1049;  the  present  edifice 
dates  from  the  12th  cent.,  and  has  been  added  to  in  Gothic  times. 
Several  of  the  old  houses  are  very  picturesque.  —  A  branch-line 
runs  to  8t.  Nabor  (7%  M.,  in  40  min. ;  see  p.  333). 

4  M.  Bischofsheim.  In  the  distance  are  the  castles  of  Ottrott 
(p.  333),  farther  on  the  Odilienberg  (p.  334)  and  the  Mannelstein 
(p   334). 

5V2  M.  Ober-Ehnheim,  French  Obemai  (Vormwald^  at  the 
station;  Wagner,  by  the  chnrch;  wine  at  the  Rathskellerjy  with 
3900  inhab.  and  several  manufactories ,  was  raised  to  the  dignity 
of  a  free  imperial  town  by  Emp.  Frederick  II.  The  Town  Hall  of 
1523,  restored  in  1849,  contains  an  interesting  old  council-chamber ; 
in  front  of  it  is  a  draw-well.  There  are  several  other  picturesque 
houses.  The  Gothic  Church  is  modern.  —  From  Ober-Ehnhelm  to 
the  Odilienberg,  see  p.  333. 

71/2  M.  OoxweiUr  produces  a  good  variety  of  white  wine  (*CIev- 
ner') ;  the  station  affords  a  fine  Tiew  of  the  mountains,  with  their 
numerous  ruined  castles.  Pleasant  walk  through  the  ^Heiligensteiner 
An'  to  HeiUgenstein  (p.  333).  —  9  M.  OertweUer;  to  the  right  the 
ruin  of  Landsberg  (p.  333),  opposite  Schloss  Andlan  (p.  334). 

10  M.  Barr  (660  ft. ;  Rothes  Ham,  in  the  town,  B.  11/2-^  jT, 
very  fair;  Ooldner  Apfel,  near  the  rail,  station;  Biihl  Hydropathic, 
pens.  4  J(;  Rail,  Restaurant),  a  husy  little  town  of  5300  inhab., 
with  extensive  tanneries ,  is  prettily  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kimeck-Thal,    The  Town  Hall  was  built  in  1640. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


VosgtB.  DAMBAOH.  44,  Route.  333 

12  M.  Eiehhofen^  station  for  Andlan  (2M.;  p.  334)  and  Stotz^ 
heim,  21/2  M.  to  the  W.  Then  (13  M.)  Epfig,  with  2400  inhab.; 
at  the  £.  end  is  the  early-Romanesque  Margarethen-Gapelle.  To 
the  right,  in  the  background,  rises  the  Vngersberg  (p.  335). 

16  M.  Dambaoh (JTrone,  very  fair),  a  small  town  of  2600  inhab., 
with  the  remains  of  old  fortifications  and  several  late-Gothic  houses. 
The  Chapel  of  8t,8ebcutian  to  theW.,  with  its  Romanesque  tower  and 
Qothic  choir,  contains  a  richly-carved  wooden  altar.  Passing  the 
chapel,  we  reach  in  40  miu.  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Bernstein ,  whence  we  may  proceed  (red  marks)  by  the  castle  of 
Ortenberg^  with  its  bold  pentagonal  tower  of  the  13th  cent.,  and 
that  of  Ramatein  (the  two  locally  known  as  the  'Scherweiler 
SchlSsser'),  to  Weilerthal  station  (p.  336). 

I872  M.  Scherweiler,  where  the  insurgent  peasants  were  defeated 
in  the  Peasants'  War  of  1525.  In  the  background,  to  the  right,  the 
Altenberg  (2885  ft.)  and  the  ruined  Frankenburg  (p.  336).  — 
21  ii.'Schlettatadt,  see  p.  321. 


AscBNT  01*  THB  Odilibnbbbg. — Siuce  the  opening  of  the  railway 
from  Rosheim  (p.  332),  8t.  Nabor  (Stern)  is  the  best  starting- 
point.   The  road  ascends  in  wide  curves  (ca.  3  M.).  The  path  leads 


past  the  Odili^ibrunnen  (see  below)  to  the  convent  in  li/4  hr. 
From  Oskk-Ehnhbim  (p.  382;  carriage  there  and  back  10-12  Jf) 
road  leads  to  the  W.  by  (i^/t  M.)  Nieder-Ottrott^  and  then  winds  round  the 


eminence  (1640  ft.)  which  is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  Lmtelhwg  and  Eath- 
tcmhauien^  Beyond  EUng«ttthal  (Schwan)  we  ascend  to  the  8.,  through  the 
vsOleys  of  the  Ehnbaeh  and  FUllochbach,  to(9>/s  M.)  the  convent.  —  Walkers 
will  also  do  well  to  shorten  the  shadeless  and  hilly  road  to  (3V2  M.)  Nieder- 
Ottrott  (786  ft.;  Schwan;  Griiner  Baum)  by  the  use  of  omnibus  (five  times 
d&ily^  40  pf.)  or  carriage  (seat  V*-!  «^)-  This  village  lies  at  the  foot  of  a 
hill  on  which  grows  good  red  wine.  At  the  end  of  Ober-OUroit  a  finger- 
post (r.)  indicates  the  way  to  the  (21/4  hrs.)  top  of  the  Odilienberg  via  the 
^Ottrott  Castles^  and  the  BUbtrg  (fine  view),  a  charming  walk  through 
woods.  The  direct  route  (IVs  hr. ;  white  marks)  ascends  through  wood, 
passes  (1  hr.)  above  an  old  Roman  causeway,  skirts  the  meadow  below  the 
convent,  and  again  traverses  wood. 

Fbom  Babe  (p.  332)  to  thk  Odilisnbbko  (2V2  hrs.)  the  route  is  more 
picturesque  than  from  Ober-Bhnheim.  —  The  road  leads  from  the  station 
direct  to  the  K.,  yia  (1  M.)  Heiligenstein  (Stem,  opposite  the  Eathhaus;  Keb- 
stock ;  good  ^Glevner'  at  both),  1/2  M.  beyond  which  a  finger-post  indicates 
the  way  (left)  to  (V4  M.)  Truttenhausen  and  ^U  M  )  Ste.  Odile.  The  sup- 
pressed Augustine  abbey  of  Trvttenhatuen  (1240  ft.)  was  founded  in  II8I ; 
it  is  now,  along  with  the  ruins  of  the  Qothic  abbey-church,  dating  from 
1490,  private  property.  •—  To  the  W.,  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  Bloss, 
of  which  the  Mannelstein  is  the  highest  point,  we  observe  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Landtberg  (1915  ft. ;  key  and  rfmts.  at  the  forester's),  erected  in 
the  18th  century.  ~  A  few  hundred  paces  beyond  Truttenhausen,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  wood,  is  a  finger-post,  pointing  in  a  straight  direction  to 
Ste.  Odile,  and  to  the  left  to  Landsberg.  Another  finger-post  is  reached 
about  11/2  H.  farther  on,  in  a  clearing  in  the  wood,  which  affords  a  view 
oi  the  convent  above ;  it  indicates  the  way  to  Niedermiinster  (see  above) 
on  the  right,  and  Ste.  Odile  on  the  left.  About  V4  hr.  below  the  convent 
we  reach  the  OdUienbrunnen^  welling  up  in  a  grotto  close  to  the  new  road, 
the  water  of  which  has  been  used  by  thousands  of  devotees  as  a  cure  for 
diseases  of  the  eye.  ^  i 

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834   Route  44,  ODILIENBERG.  The  CerUral 

Another  route  from  Barr  leads  past  the  Protestant  church  and  through 
the  ^Anlagen'  (pleasure-grounds)  on  the  Eirchherg  to  the  forester's  house  of 
Mdnkalb;  thence  to  (1  hr.)  the  ruin  of  Landsberg  (p.  333),  whence  we  may 
either  proceed  to  the  Jiidnnelslein  (see  helow),  or  go  direct  to  the  convent. 

The  *Odilienberg  forms  a  plateau-like  ridge  about  6  M.  in  circum- 
ference, surrounded  by  the  Heidenmauer  ^  a  prehistoric  fortified 
waU,  parts  of  which  are  still  6-10  ft.  high  and  3  ft.  thick;  it  is 
supposed  to  be  one  of  the  Gaulish  places  of  refuge  (like  Alesia, 
Bibracte,  etc.)  mentioned  by  Ossar.  The  sandstone  blocks  of  which 
the  Heidenmauer  is  built  are  merely  rough  -  dressed ,  not  hewn, 
and  were  secured  by  oak  braces  in  the  form  of  a  double  dovetail. 
On  the  N.E.  spur  (2470  ft.)  of  the  central  saddle  stands  a  Nunnery , 
founded  by  Ste.  Odile  in  the  7th  century.  The  abbey-churcb,  which 
is  much  frequented  by  pilgrims,  and  has  even  been  visited  by 
emperors  and  popes,  contains  the  tomb  of  the  foundress.  Tradition 
relates  that  Odile,  the  daughter  of  Eticho,  Duke  of  Alsace  (7th  cent), 
was  born  blind,  but  gained  her  sight  on  being  baptised,  and  after- 
wards spent  a  long  life  here  in  all  the  odour  of  sanctity.  Superb 
•View  from  the  convent-garden.  In  the  inner  court  (ring)  is  an 
Inn  (R.  1-2,  D.  from  12.30  to  3  p.m.  2%  pension  4-6  uT). 

The  highest  point  of  the  ridge  is  the  *M&nn6lit6i]i  (2680  ft.), 
which  rises  to  the^.E.,  and  may  be  ascended  from  the  nunnery  in 
40  min.  (finger-posts),  the  last  part  of  the  route  passing  exteneiye 
remains  of  the  Heidenmauer  (see  above).  In  clear  weather  the 
JMannelstein  commands  a  view  embracing,  almost  the  whole  of  Alsace, 
the  Breisgau  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest,  the  Vosges  (to  the  S.  the 
Kirneck-Thal,  the  Andlauer  Schloss,  and  the  Spesburg),  the  Rhine, 
and,  towards  the  S.E.,  the  Alps.  —  At  the  N.  extremity  of  the 
Odilienberg  lies  the  ruin  of  Waldsberg^  or  HagelsehloaSy  which  may 
be  reached  In  8/^  hr.  (the  ruin  itself  is  difficult  of  access).  More  to 
the  "W.  is  the  ruin  of  Dreiateiny  buried  in  wood,  consisting  of  two 
castles  of  the  13th  cent.,  situated  on  two  crags. 

From  the  Odilienberg  we  reach  (2V2  hrs.)  Hohwald  by  proceeding  for 
8  min..  in  a  straight  line  from  the  nunnery-gate  and  then  turning  to  the 
left,  along  a  new  road,  passing  the  forester^s  house  of  Welichbrueh.  On 
the  way  a  path  turns  off  to  the  right,  leading  to  the  ruin  of  Birkenfdt^ 
and  subsequently  rejoining  the  road. 


F&oic  Babb  to  Hohwald,  post-omnibus  in  summer  twice  daily 
in  13/4-2  hrs.,  (fare  ijf  QO  pf. ;  carr.  for  1-2  pers.  6V2,  for  3  pers.  8, 
carr.  &  pair  13  »#). 

The  Oabriaqb  Road  from  ^Barr  to  Hohwald  (88/4  M.)  leads  by 
Mittelbergheim  to  Andlan  (Ochsen)^  a  small  town  with  1700  inhab., 
prettily  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  Andlau -Thai,  with  several  old 
timbered  houses,  and  a  Romanesque  Ahbey  Church  of  the  12th  cent., 
with  Gothic  additions,  altered  in  1701,  and  judiciously  restored  in 
1861.  The  crypt  (11th  cent.)  is  borne  by  columns.  The  facade  is 
ornamented  with  rude,  fantastic  reliefs,  and  the  choir-stalls  are  very 
handsome.  —  The  road  then  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Andlau^ 


Vosgea.  HOHWALD.  44.  Route.  335 

througli  beautiful  woods,  passing  the  ruins  of  Andlau  (1480  ft.)  and 
Spesburg  (^1660  ft.)  on  the  right,  and  numerous  saw-mills. 

Pbdbstbians  (372  ^'8.)  should  walk  through  the  straggling  town 
of  Ban,  about  1^4  M.  in  length,  and  ascend  the  road  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Kirneck  as  far  as  the(2M.)  ^Holzplatz\  and  then  proceed 
by  a  good  footpath,  frequently  crossing  the  new  railway  (p.  332), 
to  (l*/*  lir.)  the  forester's  house  of  "Welschbruch.  —  As  an  alter- 
natiye  route  we  may  turn  to  the  left  at  the  W.  end  of  Barr  (1^2  ^> 
from  the  station),  cross  the  bridge,  and  pass  to  the  N.  of,  and  below, 
the  ruins  of  Andlau  and  Spesburg.  Beyond  the  (lY4hr.)  forester's 
house  of  HungerplcUx  (1790  ft. ;  rfmts.)  we  follow  a  cart-track  to 
(8/4 hr.)  the  forester's  house  of  Welschbruch  (2540  ft.;  rfmts.),  where 
several  paths  cross  (comp.  p.  334).  —  From  Welschbruch  the  new 
road  to  the  Hohwald  takes  ^/^  hr. ;  we  may  also  go  Tia  the  Neunten- 
stein  (see  below;  white,  then  red  and  white  marks)  in  IV2  l^r* 

Hohwald  (2000  ft. ;  H6Ul  Kuntz^  very  fair,  with'  electric  light  and 
baths,  B.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  S.  I3/4,  pens.  61/2-8 uT ;  8taufer,  plain, 
but  also  very  fair)  is  a  straggling  village  with  700  inhabitants.  Its 
healthy  and  at  the  same  time  sheltered  and  picturesque  situation 
has  made  it  one  of  the  most  frequented  summer-resorts  in  the 
Yosges.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church  stands  on  a  height  to  the  E. 
of  the  hotel ;  the  Protestant  Church  lies  farther  up  the  valley. 

The  wooded  ^E^vibons  of  Hohwald  afford  many  pleasant  exonrsions, 
which  are  greatly  facilitated  by  numerous  way-posts.  To  the  "Waterfall 
(3040  min.)  and  the  Oroste  Tanne  (1  hr.).  We  ascend  to  the  right  from 
the  road  up  the  valley,  near  the  old  Prot.  church.  —  From  the  Grosse 
Tanne  ('Great  Fir';  2790  ft.)  we  may  proceed  to  the  N.,  by  the  new  road, 
to  the  (>/«  hr.)  Rathiaihkauten  Siein  QiASO  ft.),  affording  a  view  of  the  Donon 
and  the  upper  valley  of  the  Breusch.  Hence  we  may  return  by  the  forester's 
hoose  of  Meikerei^  and  past  the  XirchMM  Felt  (I-IV4  hr.).  We  may  also 
follow  the  ridge  to  the  £.  from  the  Bathsamhausen  Stein  to  the  C^  min.) 
RoiMaeh  Inn  (3126  ft.  •,  comp.  p.  329)  and  (*/4  hr.  more)  the  Neuntenstein.  — 
To  the  Neuntenstein  (1  hr.,  back  in  V4  hr.),  a  fine  point  of  view,  a  ^ood 
path  ascends  fiom  the  garden  of  the  Hdtel  Euntz.  —  To  the  Sohttne  Leite 
(or  ^Grosse  Bellevue'*;  1  hr.):  we  turn  to  the  right  at  (5  min.)  the  first  saw- 
mill below  the  hotel,  cross  the  bridge,  and  skirt  the  wood  (following  the 
red  marks)  for  about  10  min.,  until  we  reach  the  beginning  (on  the  left) 
of  a  narrow,  partly  grass-grown  path,  which  afterwards  widens  and  winds 
gradually  round  the  mountain,  chiefly  through  wood,  and  keeping  at 
nearly  the  same  elevation.  At  the  exit  from  the  wood  we  obtain  a  fine 
view  of  the  valley  of  the  Breitenbach,  and  5  min.  farther  on  of  the 
Weiler-Thal.  Thence  to  the  (ii/4  hr.)  Ungersberg  (2985  ft.),  with  view- 
tower.  —  The  Tannenttein^  or  Pelage  (3110  ft.),  another  favourite  point, 
is  reached  by  a  shady  new  footpath,  which  intersects  the  Hohwald  and 
Breitenbach  road  at  the  forester  s  house  of  Kreueweg  (rfmts.). 

The  Hochfeld,  French  Champ-du-Feu  (3605  ft.),  is  ascended  from  Hoh- 
wald in  2  hrs.  The  route  (red  marks)  leads  to  the  W.  from  the  Grosse 
[Tanne  (see  above).  At  the  top  is  the  'Hohenlohe  Tower%  65  ft.  high.  In 
returning  we  may  follow  the  footpath  (blue  marks)  towards  the  £.  via 
Ealberhdtte,  Tannenstein,  and  Ereuzweg  (see  above) :  2  hrs.  —  Ascent  of 
the  Hochfeld  from  Schirmeck  and  from  Rothau^  see  pp.  329,  330. 

Feom  Hohwald  to  "Wbilbb,  2V4  hrs.  (carr.  10,  with  two  horses 
i^fjf).  We  follow  the  above-described  route  to  the  Schone  Leite, 
and  then  descend  to  (IY4  hr.)  the  rail,  station  of  Weiler  by  the  so- 

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336  Route  44.  KESTJSNHOLZ.  The  Upper. 

called  EselBweg  ('donkey-ioad'),  which  traverses  the  ridge  dividing 
the  valleys  of  Breitehbach  on  the  right  and  Erlmbaeh  on  the  left 
(fine  views,  hut  shadeless). 

II.   Thb  Uppbr  or  High  Yosobs  Mtb. 

Plan  of  Todb.  The  *Maiii  Route'  CHauptroute')  of  the  Vosges  Club 
(comp.  p.  327)  takes  six  days.  —  Ist  Day :  By  railway  to  Ke$te»hol§  (see 
below),  ascend  the  Soh-Kdnigsburg,  and  proceed  vii  TanneiiHrch  to  RappolU- 
weiler  (p.  333),  5Vs-6  hrs.  —  2nd  Day :  Yii  AUioeUr  to  Ihe  Brizowxtd  (p.  33T), 
descending  thence  vift  JHedoUhausen  to  the  Weiue  See  (p.  343),  9-10  hrs.  ~ 
3rd  Day:  Along  the  crest  of  the  mountain,  past  the  Schluchi^  to  the 
Hohneek  (pp.  34«,  347),  and  down  to  Metteral  (p.  347),  7y»-8Va  liM-  — 
4th  Day :  Vid  the  forester's  bouse  of  Herrenberg  to  the  top  of  the  ridf^e 
again,  and  on  to  the  Cfrotte  Belchen  (p.  34^),  7-8  hrs.  —  6th  Day :  Descent 
to  St.  Aman'n  and  by  the  Belacker  dairy  and  the  Jtostberg  to  Moem&nster 
(pp.  360,  351),  7-8  hrs.  —  6th  Day:  By  railway  to  Oberbruch  (p.  861),  walk 
via  Horben  and  Risnbach  to  the  Stem-See  and  thence  to  the  Weltehe  Belehen 
(p.  352),  descending  again  to  Seven  (p.  351),  V/r^/t  hrs. 

a.  From  SohlettBtadt  to  Markixcli.  Hoh-Xdnagsbarg.  Bappolts* 
woiler. 

13  M.  Railway  in  1  hr.;  fares  1  UT  80,  1  UT  20,  75  pf. 

Schlettstadtj  see  p.  321.  —  The  line  ascends  the  Leber-Thaly  a 
picturesque,  industrial  valley  enclosed  by  weoded  hUls.  On  the  N. 
rise  the  Scherweiler  Schlosser  (p.  833 ;  reached  from  Weilerthal). 

3  M.  Kestenliolz,  French  ChdtenoU  (630  ft. ;  Weisses  Lamm^ 
at  the  station;  Adler,  in  the  village,  well  spoken  of;  ^Cur^BdUl 
Badbrormy  with  80  rooms,  very  comfortably  fitted  up ,  R.  1V2"^» 
D.  21/2,  board  4  ulf),  a  place  with  2700  inhab.,  situated  at  the 
beginning  of  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley.  A  pleasant  walk 
may  be  taken  through  the  park,  and  then  to  the  left  from  the 
route  to  the  Hoh-Konigsburg  (p.  338),  to  the  (1  hr.)  top  of  the 
Hahnenberg  (1740  ft.). 

A  road  leads  to  the  S.  from  Kestenholz  to  (1  M.)  Xinshdm,  an  ancient 
village,  commanded  by  a  castle  of  the  same  name,  a  ruin  since  the  Thirty 
Years'  War.    The  Hoh-Konigsburg  may  be  ascended  hence  ih  I'/s  hr. 

33/4  M.  Weilerthal  (660  ft.),  French  Vat-de-VilUy  a  small  group 
of  houses,  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the  valley  of  its  own  name.  Above 
it  to  the  right,  on  the  hill  where  the  two  valleys  unite,  rises  the 
ruin  of  Frankenburg  (ll-12th  cent.),  with  its  massive  round  tower. 
On  the  slope  are  remains  of  a  prehistoric  ring- wall.  —  A  bramrh- 
railway  ascends,  in  35  min.,  through  the  Weiler-Thal,  passing 
Oereuth,  Thannweiler  (with  a  16th  cent,  chateau,  restored  in  the 
18th),  St.  Moritz,  and  Triembachy  to  (SS/^M.)  Weiler  (820  ft. ;  Stadt 
Nantigy  Post,  both  very  fair),  the  chief  place  in  the  valley,  with 
1000  inhab.  and  two  churches  (to  Hohwald:  either  by  the  Breiten- 
bach  road  or  via  the  Schbne  Leite,  see  p.  335). 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  Leber-Thal.  —  5^2  M.  Wanzel 
(720  ft.;  Danielsrain,  very  fair),  whence  the  shady  ^Kaiser-Wilhelms- 
Pfad',  marked  red  and  white,  ascends  to  the  (2  hrs.)  Hoh-Konigs- 

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Voages.  MARKIRCH.  4 J,  Route,  337 

burg.  —  83/4  M.  Leberau,  French  Lihpvre  (890  ft.  j  La  Fleur), 
opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Rwnhaeh'Tkalj  a  valley  of  imposing 
beanty,  still  little  frequented  by  tourists ;  the  principal  place  in  it 
is  Deut8ch'Rumbaeh,  with  a  French-speaking  population.  — 11 V4  M 
St.  Kreut^  French  8te.  Croix-aux^Mines . 

13  M.  Markirch.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  NiBOBL,  Lange-Str  86,  V4M.  from 
the  rail,  statioii,  commercial,  very  fair,  B.  2-8.  B.  V^t  ^-  ^Vz?  S.  2,  omn. 
Vs  Jt\  HdTBL  DBS  VoBQBs.  —  Beer  at  Schttbtrfs,  near  the  station,  and  the 
Taveme  Alsaeienne,  by  the  H6tel  Kspgel.  —  Diligence  to  Wissembach  and 
(16  M.)  St.  Di^,  4  times  daily. 

Markireh^  French  8te,  Marie^aux-MincB  (1180  ft.),  the  capital 
of  the  valley,  with  12,400  inhab.,  has  considerable  w6ol  and  cotton 
factories.  The  once  productive  silver-mines  have  been  lately  re- 
opened. The  boundary  between  the  French  and  German  languages 
formerly  passed  exactly  through  the  middle  of  the  town,  the  right 
bank  of  the  Leber  or  Liipvrette  being  German,  the  left  French, 
but  it  is  now  less  strongly  defined.  The  German-speaking  portion 
embraced  the  Reformation  and  was  subject  to  the  Counts  of  Rappolt- 
steln,  while  the  French  inhabitants  were  Roman  Catholic  and  under 
the  sway  of  the  Dukes  of  Lorraine. 

A  pleasant  Walk  may  he  taken  by  the  St.  Di^  road  (the  bends  may 
be  avoided  by  shortcuts)  to  the  forester's  honse  of  PflanztchuU  (fair  inn) 
and  (3  M.)  the  frontier  (2600  ft. ;  inn,  with  good  red  wine),  and  then  to  the 
riebi,  in  a  If.  direction,  along  the  frontier  to  (Vi  M.)  tbe  CMteau  de  Fatte 
(SSOO  ft.),  sitnated  exactly  upon  tbe  boundary-line,  which  commands  a  find 
view  of  the  valley  of  the  Meurthe.  and  of  St.  Dl^  and  its  environs.  —  Tbe 
limestone-quarries  of  (IVsM.)  St.  Philip^  in  the  gneiss  rock,  are  interesting. 

Fbom  Habkibch  to  Bappoltswbilbb,  IIV4  H.,  there  is  a  good  road 
aseending  to  the  right  about  1/4  M.  below  the  rail,  station.  The  old  road, 
diverging  to  the  left  from  the  new,  Vx  ^-  ^om  Markirch,  effects  a  con- 
siderable saving.  It  first  passes  some  cherry-trees  and  then  leads  genenJly 
through  a  dale,  rejoining  the  new  road  in  about  IVs  H.  Fine  retrospect 
of  Markirch.  The  summit  of  the  hill  (1666  ft.)  is  about  halfway.  The 
road  then  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Strengbctch ,  and  leads  through 
wood  nearly  the  whole  way  to  Bappoltsweiler.  About  IV2  M.  from  the 
summit,  and  3Vs  ^-  ^i^  Bappoltsweiler,  a  new  road  ascends  to  the  right 
(S.),  to  (3  M.)  AUveier  (p.  8i0).  About  Qi/s  ^-  farther  on  (1  M.  ftom  Bap- 
poltsweiler) we  reach  tne  entrance  (1.)  of  the  Dusenbach-Thal ,  through 
which  the  three  castles  of  Bappoltsweiler  are  easily  reached  in  V4-I  hr. 
by  a  good  path  (eomp.  p.  840). 

Thb  Ascbnt  ov  thb  BbAzouabd,  which  may  be  accomplished  from 
Markirch  In  S-S^/shrs.,  is  a  very  pleasant  excursion.  We  follow  the  road 
ascending  the  Leber-Thal  to  (V«  hr.)  Eekirch  or  Etchivy  (1406  ft.),  where 
we  turn  to  the  left  into  the  Bautn-Thah  Farther  on  we  twice  turn  to  the 
right  at  finger-posts  marked  ^Hai'cot"  and  ascend  through  wood  to  (2  hrs.) 
the  saddle  and  (6  min.)  the  farm  of  Haieot  (rfmts.).  In  Vs  hr.  more  we 
reach  the  ridge  connecting  the  two  summits,  whence  the  top  is  sained  in 
1/4  hr.  The  Br^sonard,  Brestoir^  or  BrUtekblUkel  (4030  ft.),  commands  a  most 
extensive  view  over  hiU  and  plain,  including  the  Alps  in  clear  weather. 
~  The  Br^zouard  may  also  be  ascended  from  AUweier  (p.  34())  via  the  Drei- 
bannstein,  in  2i^hr8.,  or  from  Sehnierlaeh^  vi&  the  Grande  Roche  (red  marks). 
—  DiedoUhausen  (p.  842)  is  reached  from  the  Br^souard  either  direct  from 
the  summit  over  the  Le  Flat  saddle  (IVs  hr.)  or  by  turning  to  the  right  a 
little  below  the  W.  summit,  proceeding  past  the  farm  of  HaYcot  to  the 
Diedolthmuer  HOhe  (inn),  and  then  following  the  shortcuts  across  the  bends 
of  the  road  (2  hrs.).  


Babdbkbb*8  Rhine.    16th  Edit. 


^  google 


338    BouUii,         HOH-KONIGSBURG.  The  Upper 

The  UoH-KoNiosBUBG  may  be  reaohed  by  road  (shadelees)  from 
the  station  of  8t,  Pill  (p.  321);  by  a  carriage-road  from  Weilerthal 
(p.  336)  tbrough  the  wood  (5  M.) ;  or  by  pleasant  footpaths  from 
Kcitenholz  (p.  336)  and  Wanzel  (p.  336). 

From  the  station  of  Rbstenholz  (l-2^/t  hrs.  •,  red  marks)  we  may  either 
turn  at  once  to  the  right  along  the  main  road,  and  then,  in  5  min.,  to  the 
left  by  Uie  gaide-post,  or  we  may  go  through  the  Bronnbad  park,  skirting; 
the  N  side  of  the  Hahneaberg  (comp.  p.  336)  and  continuing  past  the  forester's 
house  of  Wiek^  which  is  about  1  hr.  from  the  hotel.  —  The  shortest  route  is 
that  from  Wanzbl  (red  and  white  marks),  which  leads  through  woods  the 
whole  way,  twice  crossing  the  Weilerthal  road,  after  which  we  proceed 
either  direct  to  the  rain  (2  hrs.)  by  the  'Kaiser-wilhelm-Pfad\  or  to  the 
hotel  (I'A  hr.). 

About  V2  ^^'  below  the  top,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
castle,  is  the  Hoh-Konigsburg  Hotel  (R.  2  »#  per  day,  board  2*2^2  •# 
per  week),  commanding  a  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  the 
slopes  of  the  Vosges,  and  (In  clear  weather)  the  Alps.  An  easy  path 
leads  from  the  hotel  to  the  principal  entrance  of  the  castle. 

The  •Hoh-K6nigiburg  (2475  ft.) ,  after  Glrbaden  (p.  329)  the 
largest  castle  in  Alsace ,  was  presented  by  the  town  of  Schlettstadt 
to  Emp.  William  II.  in  1899,  and  is  now  being  thoroughly  restored 
At  the  public  expense  (^guide',  50  pf.).  Its  huge  walls  and  towers 
of  sandstone,  towering  above  the  dark-green  chestnut  wood,  are 
strikingly  picturesque.  The  W  portion  of  the  castle  served  for 
purposes  of  defence,  while  the  dwelling-rooms  were  in  the  E.  part. 
The  principal  entrance  leads  to  a  Court  Yard^  from  which  we  pass 
through  the  round- arched  Lotocn-T/ior  to  the  Inner  Quadrangle.  The 
imposing  main  building  here  (15th  cent.)  consists  of  four  stories,  the 
lowest  of  which  was  the  kitchen,  the  others  the  dwelling- rooms.  The 
platform  of  the  E.  tower  commands  a  most  extensive  •View. 

The  castle  is  first  mentioned  in  774,  as  the  *'SlopJMnhereh''  (i.e.  Staufea- 
berg).  About  1147  it  belonged  to  the  Hohenstaufen  family  (p.  84i)^  later 
it  wa^  held  in  fee  by  the  Counts  of  Werd,  and  in  1462  it  was  destroyed  by 
tbe  Confederation  of  the  Rhenish  Towns  (p.  282).  Rebuilt  in  1479.  it 
passed  through  the  hands  of  various  owners,  and  was  again  destroyed  in 
1933.  this  time  by  the  Swedes.  It  subsequently  belonged  to  the  Sickingen 
famUy  until  1770. 

From  the  Hoh-Konigsburg  a  red-marked  path  leads  to  the  S.W., 
passing (20  min.)  the  forester's  house  of  5cMn«c£ (rfmts.)  to  the  right, 
which  has  been  already  visible  from  above,  to  (l-ll/4hr.)  Tannenkirch 
(1730  ft. ;  Hotel  Tanuchel),  a  scattered  vUlage,  lying  at  the  foot 
of  the  Tdnnehel  (2955  ft. ;  with  curions  rock-formations,  and  a  fine 
view).  Ilappoltsweiler  may  be  reaohed  hence  in  i/4  hr.  From  the 
fork,  3/4  M.  from  Tannenkirch  we  may  proceed  either  to  the  right, 
following  the  red  marks  past  the  castles  (2  hrs.),  or  to  the  left  via 
the  saddle  of  Renk  direct  to  the  town  (U/*  hr.). 

From  the  rail,  station  of  Rappoltsweiler  (p.  321)  a  steam -tram 
way  (35,  25  pf.)  runs  to  the  town,  21/2  M.  to  the  W. 

Eappolts waller.  —  Hotels.  'Hotel  db  Kamcx,  at  the  foot  of  the 
main  street,  the  nearest  to  the  station,  R.  l»/2  Jf^  B.  60  pf.^O.  incl.  wine  2Vii 

.«d  by  "L.00^, 


Vo9ye$.  RAPPOLTSWEILER.  44.  Route    339 

pens.  4-6  Jf^  good  wine;  Laui(,  in  the  upper  town,  similar  charges.  — 
*Cabo la-Bad,  */*  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  station  (omn.  10  pf.),  on  ihe  road 
to  Bergheim,  a  well-equipped  bathing  establishment,  with  excellent  mineral 
water  (swimming-bath  80  pf.)i  hotel -restaurant  Q>ens.  from  5  Jf)^  and 
beautiful  garden,  also  frequented  by  transient  guests,  closed  from  Oct.  to 
mid-May.  —  *Zahnack:er'  is  the  best  local  wine. 

Bappoltsweiler  (locally  called  Rapperschwier) ,  French  Ribeau- 
viUi  (820  ft.),  an  old  cotton-manufacturing  town,  with  6100  inhab., 
and  partly  preserved  walls  of  the  14-18th  cent.,  lies  at  the  entrance 
of  a  short  but  beautiful  valley ,  watered  by  the  Strengbach ,  and 
bounded  by  productive  vineyards  (p.  321).  On  the  rocks  above,  to 
the  right,  rise  the  *  Three  Castles*  of  the  Counts  of  Rappoltstein,  a 
family  often  mentioned  in  the  medisval  history  of  Alsace. 

The  Count  of  Rappoltstein  was  the  'king'  of  all  the  musicians  and 
minstrels  of  the  Upper  Rhine,  who  recognised  him  as  the  head  of  their 
brotherhood  and  paid  him  a  yearly  tax,  while  he  in  return  extended  to 
them  the  benefit  of  his  protection.  Every  year  on  8th  Sept.  (which  is 
still  the  date  of  a  local  feast),  these  wanderers  assembled  at  Rappolts- 
weiler  to  celebrate  a  joyous  festival,  called  the  'Pfeifertag\  On  the  aeath 
of  the  last  Count  of  Bappoltstein  in  1673,  this  singular  jurisdiction,  along 
with  the  title  of  'king  of  the  pipers',  was  conferred  on  the  Countt- Palatine 
of  Birkenfeld  (afterwards  ZweibrHeken-Birken/eld),  who  were  in  the  service 
of  France.  Max  Joseph,  Duke  of  Pfalz-Zweibriicken,  a  colonel  in  the 
French  service  (1777),  and  afterwards  King  of  Bavaria  (d.  1^),  resided  in 
the  ch&teau  (now  a  school)  down  to  1782. 

A  long  street,  containing  many  fine  old  houses  of  the  15th  and 
16th  centuries ,  intersects  the  town  from  E.  to  W.  The  Metzger- 
ihurm^  in  the  market-place,  is  a  remnant  of  the  inner  fortifications, 
which  once  separated  the  adjacent  parishes,  now  forming  the  town 
of  Rappoltsweiler.  The  Rathhaua  contains  an  interesting  collection 
of  goblets  and  other  antiquities.  Handsome  fountain  of  1536;  farther 
up  a  modern  one,  with  a  figure  representing  Alsatia,  by  Friedrich. 
The  Gothic  Parish  Church  (R.  0.)  was  completed  in  1473. 

In  order  to  visit  the  three  castles,  we  take  the  red  marks  as  our 
guide,  pass  the  choir  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  follow  to  the 
left  (finger-post)  the  walk  in  the  Lutzelbach-ThcU,  crossing  the 
stream,  and  then  ascend  to  the  right  through  the  coppice.  In  i/4  hr. 
we  cross  a  footpath  leading  from  the  forester^s  house  of  Lutzelbaeh 
to  Giersherg,  and  soon  after  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  is  disclosed  to 
view.  About  V2  ^»  from  the  church  we  turn  sharply  to  the  left 
(to  the  right  a  path  to  the  Lutzelbach-Thal),  and  reach  in  V4  ^^' 
more  the  ruin  of  Giersberg  (i3th  cent.),  perched  boldly  on  a 
preeipitons  cliff  (1730  ft.).  A  fine  path  leads  hence,  past  a  bench 
commanding  a  superb  prospect,  to  (6  min.)  the  *St.  Ulricbs-Borg 
(1710  ft ;  view),  the  most  modem  of  the  three  castles,  erected  in 
the  i3th,  and  enlarged  in  the  15th  cent.,  and  abandoned  since  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  artistic  architecture, 
best  exhibited  in  the  spacious  ^Rittersaal',  with  its  beautiful  double 
windows,  surrounded  by  niches.  From  the  entrance  to  the  St.  Ulrichs- 
Burg  a  footpath  leads  to  (25  min.)  the  saddle  to  the  W.  of  the 
highest  point  (hence  to  Tannenkirch,  l^/ihr.,  see  p.  338)  and, 

22* 


340    BouU  44. 


ALTWEIER. 


The  Upper 


turning  to  the  right,  to  (10  min.)  Hoh-Bappoltstein  (2046  ft.|^ 
with  its  lofty  tower,  constructed  in  the  14th  cent,  on  the  site  of  ad 
earlier  building,  and  affording  a  good  view.  —  The  best  route  fo(| 
returning  to  Rappoltsweiler  leads  from  the  just-mentioned  8addl<| 
(flnger-post)  through  the  Du8€nbach-Thal,  past  the  Duaenbach^ 
Capelle  (pilgrimage  -  resort ;  rftnts.),  recently  rebuilt  from  the 
medisval  remains,  and  along  the  Route  de  Galvairo  (fine  retrogpects^^l 
to  the  (V4  hr.)  Markirch  road  (p.  337),  and  by  it  to  (1  M.)  Rap- 
poltsweiler. 

From  Bappoltbwbilbb  to  Katskssbbbo  (6  M.j.  The  road  leads  I 
throngb  vineyards  on  the  hillside  to  (iVs  H.)  Hunaweier  (Rebstock,  Traabe, 
good  wine  at  both),  containing  a  church  of  the  15th  cent.,  surrounded  by 
a  wall  and  bastions.  To  the  E.  we  obaerve  the  ancient  Ztllenberff^  a 
village  and  castle,  al«o  surrounded  with  a  wall.  About  IVs  M.  beyond 
Hunaweier  we  reach  ■— 

Beiehenwaier  (Sirseh,  Ooldene  Oranate,  good  wine  at  both),  a  small 
and  ancient  town  with  1700  inhab.,  surrounded  bv  vineyards  yielding  ex- 
cellent wine.  Its  walls  and  gates  are  among  the  nnest  works  of  the  kind 
in  Alsace,  particularly  the  O&eWAor,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  with  its 
double  gateway.  Kear  the  Oberthor  is  a  fine  Fountain^  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury. The  old  CfUUeau  of  the  Counts  of  Wiirttemberg-Mdmpelgart,  to  whom 
the  town  was  subject,  is  now  a  school.  The  town  contains  a  number  of 
handsome  private  dwelling-houses,  built  in  the  16th  and  17th  cent,  in  the 
Gothic  and  Renaissance  styles. 

From  Reichenweier  to  Kaif$er*berg    (p.  841),  3  M. 


Fbom  RAPPOLTswBiLBfi  TO  Altwbibr,  6  M.,  diligence  from 
April  to  the  end  of  September  twice  daily  in  2  hrs.  (2  Jf;  down  in 
11/4  hr.,  11/4  UT;  carr.  6  uT  40,  with  two  horses  12  Jf  80  pf.).  The 
road  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Strengbach,  with  the  Rappoltsweiler 
Oastles  to  the  right  and  the  ruin  of  BiUtein  (2385  ft)  to  the  left. 
At  the  kUomfetre-stone  6.19  (reckoned  from  Markirch,  p.  387),  the 
road  to  (2  M.)  Altweier  diyergea  to  the  left.  —  Walkers  may,  with 
advantage,  diverge  to  the  left  by  the  new  red-marked  'St.  Morands- 
weg',  pass  the  forester's  house  of  Barenhiitte  (rfmts.),  below  the 
Bilstein,  and  go  on  thence  by  the  N.  slope  of  the  Seelburg  to  Alt- 
weier in  3  hrs. 

Altweier,  French  Aubure  (2626  ft. ;  H6t.  du  Bristouard^  B. 
2-21/2,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  S.  2,  pens.  4-6  uT,  with  baths;  Ba/fner,  plain; 
also  pensions),  with  300  inhab.  and  two  churches  (Prot.  and  Rom. 
Oath.),  is  the  highest  village  in  Alsace  and  is  a  popular  summer- 
resort.  —  The  road  is  continued  towards  the  S.  Fine  view  on  the 
(i/s  M.)  ridge.  The  road  to  the  left  leads  to  (6  M.)  Kaysersberg  (p.  341) 
and  to  (2  M.)  Urbach  (p.  342),  that  to  the  right  to  (1 M.)  a  Sanatorium^ 
pleasantly  situated  in  a  sheltered  valley. 

The  Bb^zouabd  may  be  ascended  from  Altweier,  by  quitting  the  i 
at  the  last  house  in  the  village  (fineer-post)  2^/4-2%  hrs.),  or  by  going  af 
far  as  the  Sanatorium  and  then  following  the  red-marked  winding  pa^ 
behind  it.  The  latter  (2Vr8  hrs.)  affords  the  better  views.  The  two  " 
converge  at  the  forest-clearing  of  the  Dreibannstein. 


y  Google 


y  Google 


y  Google 


Vosge9,  KAYSERSBERG.  44.  Route.    341 

b.  The  WeisBthal.  The  Weisse  and  Schwarze  See.  Beisberg. 
Stkah  Tsamwat  from  Colmar  to  Sehnierlaeh^  127s  M.,  in  li/s  br.  (fares 
1  •<#  30,  90  pf.  ^  prolongation  to  Urbeis  in  contemplation).  Tbose  wbo  desire 
to  visit  the  lakes  leave  the  tramway  at  Bschelmer  and  walk  or  take  tbe 
omnibos  (thrice  daily  ^  60  pf.)  to  (40  min.)  Urbeis^  and  then  proceed  on 
foot  (2  brs.  direct,  or  21/3  hrs.  via  the  Schwarze  See)  to  the  Weisse  See : 
thence  to  the  Schluchi  (372-4  brs.)- 

The  Voages  differ  from  most  other  mountainous  regions  in  the  facili- 
ties which  they  afford  for  long  walks  along  the  crest  of  the  hills  without 
fatiguing  descents  into  intervening  valleys.  Such,  for  example,  are  the 
walks  firom  the  WHttt  8e«  to  the  Sehhteht,  from  the  Schlucht  to  the  Hohn- 
eek.  and  from  the  Hohneck  to  the  Reinkopf  (or  to  the  Kahle  Wasen,  p.  346) 
and  to  the  Chroste  Belchen  (p.  849). 

Colmctr,  see  p.  321.  The  tramway  starts  from  tbe  principal  rail- 
way station.  1  M.  Logelbach  (p.  344).  Immediately  after  crossing 
tbe  Fecht  we  reach  (2^/2  M.)  Ingeraheim,  whence  a  good  road  leads 
vi4  Niedermorschweier  to  DreiJEhren  (p.  345).  —  4M.  Kat%enthal. 

5  M.  Ammerschweier  (820  ft. ;  Zwei  Sehliissei) ,  an  old  town 
with  IGOOinbab.,  and  a  number  of  interesting  buildings ,  among 
which  may  be  named  the  late-Gothic  parish  -  church ,  the  Gothic 
Kaufhaus  (1538),  the  Renaissance  Rathhaus  (1652),  and  a  fountain 
of  the  16th  century.  There  are  also  several  handsome  dwelling- 
houses  of  similar  dates;  and  the  walls  and  towers,  of  the  16th  cent., 
particularly  the  Schelmenthurm  of  1535,  merit  attention. 

From  Ammerschweier  to  the  *Drei  ^hren*  (p.  346),  4*/t  M.  by  road. 
Walkers  should  take  the  path  via  the  Meiweierer  KdpfcliM  and  the  Qolz 
(p.  345). 

The  tramway  next  crosses  the  Weiss^  a  tributary  of  the  Fecht.  — 
51/2  Sigolsheim.  The  village,  which  lies  V2  M.  to  tbe  E.,  possesses 
a  fine  late-Romanesque  church,  with  interesting  sculptures  on  the 
portal;  the  tower  over  the  cross  is  late-Gothic.  Near  Sigolsheim  is 
the  so-called  *Red  Field',  where  tbe  degenerate  sons  of  Louis  tbe 
Pious  took  their  father  prisoner  in  833,  after  they  bad  seduced  bis 
army  from  its  allegiance.  In  consequence  of  this  event  tbe  spot  is 
sometimes  termed  tbe  *Liigenfeld'  (i.e.  field  of  lies). 

6  M.  Kienzheim  is  one  of  Hbree  towns  in  one  valley'  (tbe 
other  two  being  Kaysersberg  and  Ammerschweier),  mentioned  in  a 
verse  quoted  by  Merian  (1663)  as  characteristic  of  Alsace  along  with 
*  three  castles  on  one  hill,  and  three  churches  in  one  churchyard'. 

7  M.  Kaysersberg  (Zwei  Schlussel,  very  fair ;  Sonne ;  Buffet)^  an 
old  town  with  2800  inbab.  and  several  cotton- factories,  lies  at  the 
point  where  tbe  picturesque  Weissthal  contracts  and  is  commanded 
by  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Kaiserburg^  tbe  residence  of  tbe  imperial 
Landvogt  of  Alsace  during  the  13-14th  cent.,  which  was  destroyed 
during  the  Thirty  Years'  War  (view  from  tbe  platform).  The  town 
was  founded  by  Emp.  Frederick  II.  of  the  Hohenstaufen  family,  who 
were  Dukes  of  Swabia  and  Alsace  and  were  solicitous  for  tbe  welfare 
of  their  land.  Tbe  famous  preacher  John  Oeiler  (p.  309)  was  brought 
up  here.  The  ancient  walls,  tbe  numerous  quaint  bouses  of  the  15- 
16tb  cent.,  and  the  old  fountain  (with  inscription)  combine  to  give 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


342   Route  44.  URBEIS.  The  Upper 

the  to\vn  a  particularly  pleasing  air  of  antiquity.  The  handsome 
Town  Hall^  In  the  Renaissance  style,  dates  from  1604.  The  spacious 
Churchy  dating  from  the  12th  cent.,  but  subsequently  altered,  poss- 
esses a  fine  Romanesque  portal,  and  contains  a  sculptured  PietiL,  of 
the  15th  cent.,  and  a  winged  *Altar- piece,  of  the  early  16th  century. 
The  Sommerhaus  (74  hr.),  on  a  hill  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Weiss, 
commands  an  admirable  view  of  the  plain ;  the  Wetierkreuzy  some- 
what higher  up,  is  another  good  point  of  view. 

From  Eaysersberg  to  DrH  JBhrm  (p.  345)  a  blae-marked  path,  made 
by  the  Vosges  Club,  leads  in  272  hrs. ;  a  shorter  path,  marked  in  yellow, 
is  more  fatigaing  and  less  attractive  (!*/«  hr.). 

The  steam-tramway  skirts  the  S.  side  of  the  old  town-wall  of 
Kaysersberg,  and  ascends  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Weiss.  8V2  M. 
Weihel.  —  9V2  M.  Alspach^  formerly  a  Clarissine  nunnery,  now  a 
factory.  —  10  M.  Urbctch.  The  village  of  that  name,  French  Friland, 
lies  in  a  side- valley,  U/2  M.  to  the  right. 

12  M.  Egchelmer,  French  Hachimette  (Grivel),  just  within  the 
bounds  of  the  French-speaking  district,  which  embraces  the  country 
on  the  E.  slope  of  the  mountains ,  watered  by  the  Weiss  and  its 
tributary  streams.  Crossing  the  stream,  we  pass,  1/4  M.  farther  on,  on 
the  left,  the  road  (indicated  by  a  finger-post)  leading  to  Urbeis  (see 
below;  omn.  in  connection  with  the  mail-trains).  The  line  ascends 
the  valley  of  the  BSchine, 

123/4 M.  Schnierlach,  French  La  Poutr&ye  (Post;  Krone,  both 
very  fair),  the  present  tramway-terminus,  possessing  considerable 
cotton-factories.  —  To  the  S.W.  of  Schnierlach,  beyond  Oouttt,  a 
path  ascends  to  the  left  to  (1  hr.)  the  top  of  the  FaudS(2bS^  ft.). 
—  From  Schnierlach  to  the  Weisse  See  (21/2  ^^s.) :  the  blue-marked 
and  shadeless  path  leads  via  Goutte  to  the  saddle  of  Bermoni 
(2105  ft.),  and  then  via  Remomont  to  (1  hr.)  MatreUe,  where  it 
joins  the  route  from  Urbeis  (p.  343). 

The  road  continues  to  ascend  along  the  Bechine.  3  M.  DiedoU" 
hausen,  French  Le  Bonhomme  (2120ft.;  H6t.  des  Lacs,  R.  1-2, 
D.  2V2  •^>  Cheval  Blanc,  both  very  fair),  with  a  new  church, 
21/2  M.  from  the  French  frontier  (Col  du  Bonhomme,  3120  ft.),  A  red- 
marked  path  (fine  views)  leads  from  Diedolshausen  to  (11/2-^^^8.) 
the  Weisse  See. 

From  EsOHBLMEB  (see  above)  we  proceed  towards  the  S.W.,  up 
the  valley  of  the  Weiss,  to  (2  M.)  Urbeis  or  Orhey  (1676  ft. ;  Cor- 
neliua,  R.  11/2-^  Ulf,  very  fair),  a  scattered  mountain- village,  with 
various  industries  and  a  conspicuous  new  church.  —  At  the 
beginning  of  the  village  diverges  a  road  to  the  left,  ascending  the 
Tannacher-  Thai  (fine  mountain-view)  to  the  (7^/2  M.)  Drei  -fihren 
(footpath  shorter).  —  The  road  running  to  the  S.  from  Urbeis  and 
then  (1  M.)  bending  to  the  left  ascends  vi&  Vnterhuttm  to  the  Wc«- 
ateinhoJie  (2885  ft.)  and  then  descends  to  the  Schlucht  road  above 
Sulzern  (p.  346 ;  Sulzern  is  IO72  M.  from  Urbeis). 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


VoBges.  W£ISS£  SEE.  44,  RouU.   343 

Most  travellers  pay  a  visit  from  Urbeis  (or  from  Schnierlach)  to 
the  two  mountain-lakes,  the  Weisse  See  and  the  Scbwarze  See, 
which  lie  to  the  W.  of  it,  nearly  on  the  summit  of  the  granite  ridge 
separating  Alsace  from  Lorraine.  —  The  direct,  hut  shadeless  route 
(blue  marks)  from  Urbeis  to  the  Weisse  See  diverges  to  the  right  in  the 
village,  passes  the  'Nouveau  Martinet  (forge),  and  follows  the  right 
bank  of  the  brook,  vi&  Basse  Orange,  to  the  hamlet  of  La  Matrelle. 
Hence  we  follow  the  blue-marked  path  from  Schnierlach  (p.  342),  vill 
Blane  Rupt,  We  may  cut  off  the  last  wide  bend  of  the  road  by  ascend' 
ing  direct  to  the  left  about  1^2  ^^*  *^^t^  leaving  Urbeis.  —  The 
route  via  the  Sehwarxe  See  (1 1/2-2  hrs.;  to  the  Weisse  See  23/4-3  hrs.) 
is  pleasantcr.  We  follow  the  above-mentioned  Sulzern  road  for  1 M. 
and  then  take  the  road  to  the  right,  which  passes  (1  M.)  the  old 
Cistercian  abbey  of  Pairis  (2130  ft.),  the  extant  portions  of  which 
have  been  converted  into  a  hospital  (Romanesque  chapel).  In 
25  min.  more  we  reach  the  edze  of  the  wood,  whence  a  steep  foot- 
path to  the  left  ascends  to  (72  hr.)  the  Schwarze  See.  The  road 
runs  to  the  N.,  ascends  in  a  sharp  curve,  and  then  (2  M.)  forks.  The 
branch  to  the  right  leads  to  the  Weisse  See  and  along  its  E.  bank 
to  (2  M.)  the  hotel.  The  left  branch  leads  to  (8/4  M.)  the  refuge- 
hut  on  the  Schwarze  See,  on  the  S.  bank  of  which  we  may  ascend 
(steep)  to  (60  min.)  the  Sulzemer  Eck  (see  below). 

The*WeiSBe  See,  or  Lac  Blanc  (3450  ft.),  which  derives  its  name 
from  the  quartz  at  the  bottom,  is  about  3  M.  in  circumference;  it 
is  bounded  on  two  sides  by  lofty  precipices,  and  on  a  third  by  huge 
masses  of  granite  piled  together.  High  over  its  N.  end  stands  the 
H6UI  zum  Weissen  See  (3680  ft. ;  R.  2,  B.  3/4,  D.  2%  pens.  6  Jf, 
more  in  the  season ;  telephone  to  Urbeis).  —  The  Schwarze  See,  or 
Lac  Noir  (3116  ft.),  about  half  the  size  of  the  other,  lies  only  3/4  M. 
to  the  S.,  but  the  two  lakes  are  separated  by  a  huge  wall  of  granite. 
The  discharge  of  the  two  lakes  forms  the  Weiss. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  lakes  rises  the  Beisberg  (4176  ft.),  the 
northernmost  eminence  of  the  range  called  Les  Hautts  Chaumes^ 
which  extends  to  the  Schlucht  (about  9  M. ;  fine  mountain-walk  of 
3V2-^lirs.).  The  ridge,  along  which  runs  the  boundary  of  Alsace, 
may  be  attained  from  the  Weisse  See  Hotel  in  about  20  minutes. 
The  view  extends  over  the  Vosges,  a  great  part  of  Lorraine,  the 
Black  Forest,  and  the  entire  plain  of  the  Rhine.  The  path  (numerous 
guide-posts)  keeps  mainly  on  the  German  side  of  the  boundary. 
Beyond  the  boundary-stone  2772,  about  40  min.  from  the  hotel,  is 
a  finger-post  indicating  (1.)  the  (V4  hr.)  8ee-Kan%el  ('Pnlpit'),  com- 
manding a  view  of  both  lakes.  At  the  Sulzemer  Eck  (4272  ft.;  stone 
2779)  a  survey  is  obtained  to  the  S.  of  the  Munster-Thal,  with  the 
Swiss  Alps  in  the  distance.  Farther  on  we  pass  the  Taubenklang^ 
fels  or  Roche  du  Oazon  de  Faing  (stone  2782)  and  the  Bingbuhlkopf 
or  Oazon  d/t  Fatte  (4270  ft.;  stone  2786).  Beyond  stone  2789  a  path 
leads  to  the  left  to  the  Sulzemer  See  (to  Sulzern  2  hrs.,  comp. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


344  BouU  44.  TtTRKHEIM.  The  Uper 

p.  346).  We  now  traverse  a  low  wood  of  beech  and  pine,  and  about 
50  paces  to  the  left  obtain  a  view  of  the  Sulzemer  See  or  Daaren^See 
(3425  ft.),  a  small,  pine-girt  mountain-lake,  416  acres  in  area.  At 
the  TanneekfelSj  or  Boehe  du  Panel  (4243  ft. ;  stone  2800),  we  have 
our  last  retrospect  of  the  lake.  At  stone  2816  a  path  leads  to  the 
left  to  (40  min.)  the  H6t.  Altenberg  (p.  346).  From  this  point  we 
reqnire  Vs  ^^v  passing  the  J^roppcn/e/d  (4115  ft.;  stone  2826),  to 
reach  the  Schlucht  (see  p.  346). 

c.  From  Colmar  to  Kuniter  and  Ketseral.   The  Sehluelit. 

16Vi  H.  Railway  to  (12  M.)  MUmter  in  */i  br.  (fares  1  UT  60,  1  UT  10, 
65  pf.)i  to  (15Vs  M.)  Metstal  in  I1/4  hr.  (fares  2  JT,  1  UT  40,  85  pf.). 

To  the  W.  of  Colmar  (p.  321)  opens  the  fertile  *M&nst6r-Thal, 
formerly  called  the  St.  Gregorien-Thal,  watered  by  the  FechU  Its  in- 
habitants ,  most  of  whom  are  Protestants ,  carry  on  manufactures 
of  various  kinds  and  cattle-farming.  Jhe  ^Munster  cheese'  resembles 
the  highly-esteemed  Oamembert. 

The  line  skirts  the  Logelbaeh,  an  old  canal,  conducted  from  the 
Fecht  at  Turkheim,  on  which  numerous  cotton-manufactories  are 
situated.  2  M.  LogeJJbach  (p.  341),  with  a  small  modern-Gothio 
church.  In  the  plain  between  Colmar- and  Tilrkheim,  on  5th  Jan., 
1675,  Turenne  surprised  and  signally  defeated  the  German  imperial 
army,  which  had  gone  into  winter-quarters  here.  This  decisive 
engagement  drove  the  Germans  across  the  Rhine  and  effectually 
expelled  them  from  Alsace. 

33/4  M.  T&rkheim  (775  ft. ;  Deux  Clefs,  a  picturesque  old  house, 
R.  IV4-2,  I>.  IV2-2V2,  pens,  from  31/2  UJf,  with  wine-room ;  Boll, 
at  the  town-gate,  very  fair;  CerfBlane,  nearest  the  station),  an  old 
town  with  2500  Inhab.,  still  almost  entirely  surrounded  by  walls 
and  towers.  One  of  the  best  wines  of  Alsace  is  yielded  by  the  neigh- 
bouring vineyards  (comp.  p.  321). 

On  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  stat.  Turkheim 
and  3  M.  from  Colmar  (steam- tramway  in  1/4  br. ;  40,  26  pf.) ,  lies  the 
village  of  Winzenheim  (Meyer,  well  spoken  of  1  Storch),  trom  which  a  visit 
may  be  paid  to  the  ruins  of  Hohlandshurg  ana  Pflixburg.  A  footpath,  not 
to  be  mistaken,  issuing  from  the  W.  end  of  the  village,  aseends  in  1  hr. 
to  the  ruin  of  Hohlandtburg  (2055  ft.),  consisting  of  little  more  than  the 
outer  walls  of  an  extensive  castle,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  In 
1635.  Fine  view.  In  returning  we  may  either  proceed  by  the  Plixburff  or 
by  a  direct  and  easy  path  to  stat.  8t.  Oilgen  (p.  345),  or,  taking  the  direc- 
tion indicated  by  the  finger-post  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Hohlandshurg, 
I^ass  mostly  through  wood  to  (3  M.)  the  ruins  of  the  Drei-Exen  (p.  323). 

Fbom  TCbkhbim  to  Dbei  yEnBEN,  572  ^"i  electric  railway  in 
8/4  hr.  (fare  1  ujf ,  down  50  pf.,  there  and  back  1  UJf  20  pf.).  The 
line  follows  the  highroad  for  about  half  the  distance,  then  traverses 
the  Tilrkheim  Wood,  and  at  the  top  reaches  the  Niedermorschweior 
road  (p.  341).  —  Pedestrians  (II/4  hr.)  follow  the  road  to  the  W., 
up  the  valley,  for  about  IV4M.,  and  then  take  the  shorter  footpath 
to  the  right.  ^  . 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Vosgts.  MONSTER.  44,  Route,   345 

Brei  JEhxen,  Frencli  Notre  Dame  des  TroU  ^Uj  German  Vnsere 
Liebe  Frau  zu  den  drei  jEhren  (1910  ft.;  Hdtel  de'  Trois  Boia,  with 
terrace;  Hdtel  des  Trois  ^pisy  pens,  at  each  5-7  Jf;  Notre  Dame, 
plainer;  BeHevue,  with  view,  very  fair),  is  a  village  and  resort  of 
pilgrims,  on  the  hill  to  the  W.  of  Tiirkheim.  Its  picturesque  situa- 
tion and  salubrious  air  have  rendered  this  spot  a  favourite  summer- 
resort.  The  village  consists  of  an  unpretending  Gothic  church,  con- 
taining a  number  of  votive  tablets,  with  a  few  houses  adjacent. 
The  *View  embraces  the  lower  Miinster-Thal  towards  the  S.,  the 
E.  slopes  of  the  Yosges,  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Black 
Forest,  and  the  distant  Alps  to  the  S.  To  the  W.  of  the  village  is 
the  Belvedere, 

A  more  extensive  view,  especially  towards  the  N. ,  is  gained  from  the 
Galz  (2400  ft),  1/2  br-  to  the  K.E.  (finger-post  behind  the  Hdt.  Trois  Epis). 
—  The  Orosse  ffohnack  (3216  ft),  2VsM.  to  the  S.W.  of  Drei  Mhren  (finger- 
post at  the  W.  end  of  the  village),  also  commands  a  pleasing  view,  with 
the  Miinster-Thal  in  the  foreground,  and  opposite,  on  the  K.,  the  Kleine 
Bohnack  (3016  ft),  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  restored  in  the  13th 
cent  and  destroyed  in  1665.  —  From  Drei  ^hren  to  the  lakes  (p.  3AB), 
passing  between  the  two  Hohnacks ,  4V8  hrs. ;  by  Hohrodherg  to  Miinster 
(see  below)  3>/a  hrs.  j  to  Ammerschweier  IVihr.,  to  Urbeis  2V»  hrs. 

Drei  ^hren  may  also  be  reached  by  pleasant  routes  from  Ingersheim 
(p.  341),  Ammerschweier  (p.  341),  and  Eaysersber^  (p.  341). 


5V4  M.  8t.  Qilgen;  61/4  M.  Walbach.  —  8  M.  Weier  im  Thai 
(1013  ft.;  good  inn  at  the  station),  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  which 
is  a  small  bath-establishment  near  the  small  and  ancient  town  of 
8ulzbaeh.  (From  Sulzbach  to  the  Kahle  Wasen,  4  hrs.,  see  below.) 
The  village  of  Weier  im  Thai,  with  a  conspicuous  new  church, 
lies  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  and  is  commanded  by  the  pilgrim- 
age-chapel of  Hei^/pfcretis.  —  10  M.  Ounsbachy  with  a  large  cotton- 
factory,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schlosswald  (see  below).  The  train  then 
crosses  the  Fecht  to  — 

12  M.  Konster  (1256  ft. ;  Orand-Hotel  Miinster,  near  the  station, 
R.  1V2-^V2»  ^'  ^A*  P®"8.  5-6  Jf,  with  garden;  Storch),  a  manu- 
facturing town  with  6100  inhab.,  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Monchs- 
berg  (Hot.  Monchsberg,  R.  li/2,  D.  2  Jf,  well  spoken  of)  at  the  union 
of  the  KUinthal  (p.  346)  with  the  Grossthal  (see  p.  346).  The  place 
owes  its  origin  to  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  here  by  King  Childeric 
about  660,  and  in  the  13th  cent  it  was  a  free  town  of  the  German 
Empire.  Numerous  modern  buildings,  among  which  the  handsome 
Protestant  church  (in  the  Romanesque  style)  and  the  theatre  are 
conspicuous,  testify  to  the  prosperity  of  the  town. 

The  Sehloiiwaldy  IV4  M.  to  theE.,  an  eminence  laid  out  in  pleasure- 
grounds,  and  crowned  by  the  ruin  of  Bchwartenburg^  is  open  to  the  public. 
•View. 

Fbom  MfiNSTSR  TO  TUB  Eahlb  Wasbn,  3  hrs.  The  path  (finger-post  at 
the  station;  farther  on  red  and  white  marks)  winds  upward  to  the  f^^rc/M, 
a  ditch  or  trench  filled  with  water,  which  it  skirts,  to  the  right,  as  far 
as  the  Voltaire  Oak.  Here  it  joins  the  road  from  Luttenbach  (p.  8i6),  which 
we  now  follow  (avoiding  the  wide  curve  by  shortcuts),  via  the  Rieth 
dairy  (rfmts.),   where  a  path   to  Sulzbach  diverges  on  the  left,  tu  the 


346  Route  44,  SOHLUOHT.  The  Upper 

gV«-2V2  liM.)  dairy  of  Kahlenwaten  (inn).  Thence  to  the  top,  Va  Iw-  The 
ahle  Waten,  or  Kleine  Belchen  (4160  ft.)*  commands  a  view  of  the  Miinster- 
Thai  and  the  Lanchthal.  In  June  the  mountain  is  covered  with  a  carpet 
of  Vosges  violets  (Viola  elegans).  —  The  descent  is  made  to  (2-3i/s  hrs.) 
Lautenbaeh  (p.  348),  by  a  path  indicated  by  red  and  white  marks  leadins 
via  BSnles  Grab  (2840  ft. ;  inn),  or  we  may  go  from  the  dairy-house  via 
the  Steinberg  to  the  forester's  house  of  Lattem  (red  rectangle  with  yellow 
disk),  and  by  the  road  through  Landerdtach  to  M§tz$rul  Q).  84*0  in  21/4-21^  hrs. 
—  A  fine  walk  of  6-7  hrs.  may  be  taken  by  following  the  ridge  toward* 
the  W.  to  the  Klintkopf  (4365  ft.  5  *View)  and  proceeding  to  the  8.  to  the 
Grosse  Belchen  (p.  349). 

The  train  tarns  to  the  S.W.  and  ascends  the  Orossthal,  which  is 
watered  by  the  Fecht.  —  From  (12^2  M.)  Luitenbach  the  above- 
mentioned  road  leads  to  the  dairy  on  the  Kahle  Wasen.  —  i^^/4  M. 
Breitenbach;  14 V2  M.  MUhlhach.  —  151/2  M.  Metzeral  (1670  ft.), 
see  p.  347.  

The  Road  from  MtiNSTSB  thbouoh  the  Schlucht  (10 Y2  M. ; 
omnibus  to  Altenberg  from  June  to  end  of  Sept.  2  uff  80  pf.,  in  the 
reverse  direction  iJfQO  pf. ;  carr.  for  2  pars.  12,  carr.-and-pair20ulf) 
ascends  the  KleirUhal  towards  the  N.  W.  The  distance  to  the  frontier 
is  11  M.,  which  may  be  accomplished  in  this  direction  in  S-S^/ahrs. 
At  (2  M.)  Stossweier  (Schlucht  Inn  ;  H6t.  Hittelbach,  above  the  village) 
the  road  turns  towards  the  N.  to  (I74  M.)  Sulzem,  and  ascends  the 
hill  in  a  long  curve.  At  the  N.  angle  of  this  bend,  V/2  M.  from 
Miinster,  a  road  to  (91/2  M.)  Urbeis  (p.  342)  diverges  to  the  right. 
The  road  continues  to  ascend  through  line  wood. 

Pbdbstbians  cross  the  stream  at  a  saw -mill  2^4  M.  beyond 
Stossweier  (see  above),  follow  its  left  bank  to  Ampfersbach  and 
Schmelzwasen ^  and  regain  the  (3  hrs.)  road  about  1  M.  below  the 
Schlucht.  Or  they  may  select  the  attractive  route  from  Schmelzwasen 
via  the  8tolze  Abla?t  and  the  Hohneck  (5-6  hrs. ;  comp.  the  Map). 

About  972  M.  from  Miinster  and  11/2  M.  from  the  top  of  the 
pass,  above  the  road  to  the  right,  stands  the  new  *H6tel  Altenherg 
(3600  ft.),  a  comfortable  house  with  electric  light,  hot-air  heating, 
and  baths,  open  in  summer  only  (R.  21/2-672?  B-  ^  V2'  ^-  '^j  S.  3Uf; 
rooms  should  be  ordered  in  advance).  Adjacent  is  a  restaurant  for 
passing  tourists  (D.  I72  ^).  Fine  ylew  of  the  Miinster-Thal.  Plea- 
sant walks  ascend  through  the  woods  at  the  back  of  the  hotel  to  the 
Krappen-Fels  and  the  top  of  the  pass. 

From  this  point  onward  the  road  is  cut  through  the  granite  rocks, 
and  a  few  hundred  paces  below  the  summit  it  passes  through  a 
tunnel. 

The  ♦Schlucht,  French  Col  de  la  Schlucht  (3736  ft.) ,  a  pictur- 
esque mountain-pass,  surrounded  by  precipitous  rocks  and  beau- 
tiful pine-forest,  lies  between  the  Lundenbuhl  or  Montabec  (4125  ft.) 
on  the  S.  and  the  Spittenfelskopf  (iiib  ft.)  on  the  N.,  two  heights  of 
the  Central  Vosges  Mts.  The  summit  of  the  pass  forms  the  boundary 
between  Germany  and  France.    On  the  German  side  are  a  house  in 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Voages.  METZERAL.  44.  Route.   347 

the  'Swiss  Chalet'  style,  and  a  modest  inn,  and  on  the  French  side 
is  the  popular  Hdtel  de  la  Schluchi, 

From  the  chalet  a  good  clnh-path,  passing  the  QuellenfelSy 
ascends  to  the  left  to  (1 1/4  hr.)  the  summit  of  the  *Hohneck  (4465  ft. ; 
Inn  in  summer).  The  view  (mountain-indicator)  extends  far  beyond 
the  Vosges  Mts.,  embracing  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Black 
Forest,  the  Jura  and  the  Alps  towards  the  S.,  and  the  French  Depart- 
ment of  the  Vosges  towards  the  "W.  In  the  foreground  towards  the 
E.  is  the  beautiful  Miinster-Thal,  towards  the  W.  the  valley  of  Gerard- 
iner  with  the  Retoumemer  and  Longemer  lakes.  The  Hohneck  is 
also  of  great  interest  to  the  botanist. 

On  the  summit  is  a  finger-post  pointing  to  the  Schlucht  on  the 
N.W.  and  theFischbSdle  on  the  S.E.  Proceeding  in  the  latter  direction, 
we  pass  Schietsrotkried  (refreshments) ,  where  a  pond  has  recently 
been  dammed  in,  and  reach  the  (11/2  l^r)  *Fi8chbddle^  a  small  lake, 
well  stocked  with  trout,  surrounded  by  wild  rocks,  and  probably  the 
moraine  of  an  ancient  glacier  once  occupying  the  Wolmsa'ThcU. 
From  the  Fischbcidle  to  Metzeral  IV2  ^^'  (*  beautiful  walk,  seen  to 
greatest  advantage  in  ascending). 

Metzeral  (Railway  Hotel^  by  the  station,  plain ;  Sonne^  unpretend- 
ing but  comfortable),  with  1600  inhab.,  lies  at  the  union  of  the  two 
streams  which  form  the  Fecht.  —  To  the  Fischbodle,  see  above. 

From  Mbtzebal  to  the  Grossb  Belchen  (red  marks ;  7-7V2  hrs).  We 
ascend  the  valley  by  the  road  to  (ca.  1  hr.)  the  forester  s  house  of  fferren- 
lerg;  then  traverse  a  pretty  wood,  past  the  Herrenberg  dairy,  to  the  (2  hrs.) 
ridge,  along  which  runs  a  good  track  made  by  the  Vosges  Club.  This 
we  follow  to  the  left,  past  the  dairies  of  OrosS'ffa7inen1)runnen  (rfints.)  and 
Markstein  (rfints.)  \  IV2  M.  beyond  the  latter  we  join  the  *Pionier-Weg'  from 
Lauchenweiher,  and  pursue  it  to  the  foot  of  the  Grosse  Belchen  (See-Sattel). 
A  footpath  finally  leads  to  the  inn  at  the  top  (p.  349). 

Fbuh  Metzbkal  to  "Wildknstein  (p.  351),  4  hrs.  We  mount  to  the  ridge 
above  the  dairy  of  Herrenberg  (see  above),  and  proceed  thence  to  (174-lV2hr.) 
Wildenstein  (finger-posts)  by  a  rugged  and  often  steep  path.  —  The  attractive 
ascent  of  the  Bothenbachkopf  (4305  ft.)  may  be  combined  with  the  passage 
to  Wildenstein  by  making  a  digression  of  l-iy*  hr.  On  the  ridge  we 
follow  the  club-path  to  the  right  (not  to  the  left,  as  for  the  Grosse  Belchen), 
later  again  diverging  to  the  right  and  thus  reaching  the  pointed  top 
(extensive  view  of  the  Miinster-Thal,  etc.).  We  may  descend  either  by  the 
ridge  a**  we  came,  or  by  the  frontier-wall  as  far  as  the  dairy  of  Rothen' 
bacfihof,  whence  a  club-path  leads  to  Wildenstein  (comp.  p.  351). 

d.  From  BoUweiler  to  Lantenbach.   Orosse  Belchen. 

8  M.  Railway  in  S/4-I  hr.  (fares  IjT  20,  75,  50  pf.). 

BoUweiler y  see  p.  324.  The  line  traverses  a  fertile  district.  —  3  M. 
Obersuh^  a  town  of  4400  inhab.,  with  silk- factories,  contains  an 
unpretending  but  tasteful  parish-church,  chiefly  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  a  lofty  tower  above  the  crossing,  begun  in  1278,  and 
finished  in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries.  To  the  left  near  Gebweiler 
are  several  modern  houses  in  the  Gothic  style. 

From  Obersulz  there  is  omnibus  connection,  via  Jungholt^  with  8t,  Anna 
(1630  ft.  5  1  hr.)  with  has  lately  come  into  vogue  as  a  health-resort  (Hfttel- 
Pension  Schuller,  very  fair). 

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348   ^oute  44.  GEBWEILER.  The  Upper 

4V2  ^'  Oebweiler  (926  ft. }  Engel,  at  the  station ;  Ooldene  Kanone)^ 
with  13,300  inhab.,  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  LauchthcU,  is  an 
important  manufacturing  place,  the  products  of  which  are  cotton  goods, 
cloth,  sugar,  and  machinery.  The  road  from  the  station  leads  straight 
to  the  Neue  Kirche,  a  handsome  building  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
the  18th  cent.,  erected  in  1759  by  the  Prince- Abbots  of  Murbach, 
when  they  transferred  their  residence  to  Qebweiler.  The  main 
street  leads  to  the  right  past  the  late- Gothic  Ratkhaus  to  the 
^Parish  Church  (SULeodegar),  a  fine  example  of  the  Transition  style, 
begun  in  1182,  and  lately  restored.  It  possesses  double  aisles,  a 
transept ,  three  towers  of  unequal  height ,  and  a  fine  Romanesque 
porch  occupying  the  whole  breadth  of  the  W.  front.  The  choir  is 
Gothic.  The  sculptures  on  the  W.  central  portal  merit  inspection. 
One  of  the  best  wines  of  Alsace  (*Kitterle*)  is  produced  near  Gebweiler. 

A  good  path,  indicated  by  red  and  white  marks,  beginning  at  theW. 
end  of  Gebweiler  (iV4  M.  from  tbe  station),  ascends  vi&  the  saddles  otPstemU 
(1845  ft.)  and  MUmUrdckerle  (2150  ft.)  and  tbe  refuge-hut  on  tbe  monntain- 
paature  known  as  Judenhuiplan  to  (3V2-4  hrs.)  the  Belehen  (p.  349). 

51/2  M.  Heissenstein  (1015  ft.),  the  upper  station  for  Gebweiler. 
—  The  railway  ascends  the  pretty  Lauchthal ,  passing  the  ruin  of 
Hugstein,  —  7  M.  Biihl  (1115  ft.). 

At  Biihl  the  road  from  Gebweiler  enters  the  valley  of  the  Murb€Kh^ 
passes  the  H61.  Wolff  (good),  and  leads  S.  to  the  (2  M.  from  Bdhl  station) 
Romanesque  Abbey  Church  of  Hurbach.  This  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded 
by  Duke  Eberhard  of  Swabia  in  727,  became  one  of  the  most  powerful  on 
the  Upper  Rhine,  and  possessed  extensive  domains,  in  which  three  towns 
(including  Gebweiler)  and  thirty  villages  were  situated.  It  was  presided 
over  by  an  abbot  of  princely  rank,  who  bor.e  as  his  device  a  black  grey- 
hound (^haughty  as  the  Murbach  hound^  was  a  medieeval  saying).  The 
church,  of  which  the  nave  has  disappeared,  was  consecrated  in  1139,  and 
ranks,  like  that  of  Maursmunster  (p.  327),  as  one  of  the  oldest  and  finest 
Romanesque  buildings  in  Alsace.  The  S.  transept  contains  a  handsome 
Gothic  tombstone  of  the  13th  century.  The  house  to  the  left,  about 
50  paces  beyond  the  archway  across  the  road,  with  its  groundfloor  borne 
by  Romanesque  columns,  is  an  inn. 

The  Belehen  is  ascended  from  Murbach  in  3  hrs.  by  a  path  crossing  the 
brook  to  the  left  above  the  church  and  joining  the  *Neuweg\  which  leads 
to  the  Judenhutplan  (see  above). 

The  terminus  of  the  railway  is  (8  M.)  Lauteribach  (1300  ft. ; 
Weisses  Lamm),  a  large  industrial  village,  with  ootton  and  thread 
factories.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Gangolf,  Opposite, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lauch,  is  the  village  of  Lautenbach-ZeU, 

From  Lautbnbach  to  thb  Grossb  Belchbn,  33/4-4  hrs.  This 
Is  the  pleasantest  ascent  from  the  Lauchthal.  We  follow  the  road 
up  the  valley  to  the  (50  min.)  forester's  house  of  Sdgmatten,  whence 
we  ascend  the  track  (red  and  white  marks)  through  the  woods,  to 
the  left,  to  the  piles  of  cut  timber.  Here  we  again  bear  to  the  left 
past  the  (1  hr.)  falls  of  tbe  Seebach,  and  continue  along  the  left 
bank  of  the  stream,  crossing  it  above  the  falls,  and  then  following 
the  right  bank  until  we  reach  the  Belchensee  (3236  ft ;  35  min.),  pic- 
turesquely situated  at  the  foot  of  the  peak.  Skirting  the  W.  side  of 
the  lake,  we  gradually  climb  to  the  (50  min.)  See-StUtelj  between 

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Voiges.  THANN.  44.  Route.    349 

the  Storkenkopf  on  the  "W.  and  the  Belchen  on  the  E. ;  and  then, 
crossing  the  *Pionier-Weg\  "we  round  the  N.  side  of  the  peak,  and 
reach  (i/o  hr.)  the  tv ell-kept  Belchenhaus,  belonging  to  the  Vosges 
Cluh  (10  rooms  with  16  beds,  telephone  to  Gebweiler;  meteoro- 
logical station).  This  is  5  min.  below  the  peak  of  the  *Gro88e  Bel- 
chen,  French  Ballon  de  Soultz  ("4680  ft),  the  highest  point  of  the 
Yosges,  commanding  a  wide  panorama  (mountain-indicator).  In  clear 
weather  the  Alps,  from  the  Sentis  to  Mont  Blanc,  are  plainly  visible. 
For  travellers  wishing  to  continue  their  walk  farl^er  8.  the  descent 
to  St:  Amarin  is  recommended  (red  marks ^  1^/4 hr.;  see  p.  350). 

e.  From  Mdllianseii  to  Wesserling. 

20Vs  M.  Railway  in  IVs  hr.  (fares  2  JT  80,  1  JT  90,  1  UT  20  pf.). 

MiUhauseny  see  p.  324.  This  railway  connects  the  main  line 
with  the  important  manufacturing  places  in  the  St.  Amarin-Thal, 
the  industrious  valley  of  the  Thufj  and  opens  up  to  visitors  an 
exceedingly  picturesque  tract  of  country.  —  2  M.  Dornoch;  4  M. 
Lutterbaeh  (823  ft.),  see  p.  324 ;  91/2  M.  Sennheim  (854  ft.),  Fr. 
Cemay  (Bornot ;  Zwei  Schlussel),  where  a  branch-line  diverges  to 
Oewenheim  and  Masmiinster  and  Sewen  (see  p.  351). 

121/2  M.  Thann  (1096  ft. ;  H6t.  da  Voyageuri,  at  the  rail,  station, 
veil  spoken  of ;  Zwci  Schlussel ;  Restaurant  Pointet,  with  garden, 
Mnnich  beer;  good  wine  at  the  Weisser  Bdr)^  a  town  with  7600  in- 
hab.,  a  large  chemical  manufactory,  and  thriving  machinery,  cotton, 
and  silk  factories,  is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  Thur,  the  mountains  enclosing  which  are  covered 
with  wood  on  their  upper,  and  vineyards  on  their  lower  slopes.  The 
*Church  of  St,  Theobald,  the  choir  (1351-1421)  of  which  is  first 
visible  in  approaching  from  the  station,  is  a  gem  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. Its  bold  and  elegant  open  tower,  begun  in  1430  and  com- 
pleted in  1516  by  Meister  Remigius  Walch  (inscription  on  the  spire 
at  the  top) ,  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  later  Gothic.  The 
handsome  double  portal  on  theW.  side  also  deserves  attention.  The 
interior  is  adorned  with  carved  work  of  the  16th  cent.,  Gothic 
stained  glass,  and  a  fine  painting,  of  the  school  of  Martin  Schon- 
gauer,  of  Christ  amid  several  apostles.  —  The  church  is  seen  to  ad- 
vantage from  the  Engelburg,  a  castle  crowning  an  eminence  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Thur  (which  is  crossed  by  two  bridges),  and  com- 
manding the  town  and  entrance  to  the  valley.  (The  route  to  the 
castle  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  main  street,  opposite  the 
church.)  The  overthrown  tower  of  the  castle,  which  was  destroyed 
by  Turenne  in  1674,  somewhat  resembles  a  huge  cask.  The  district 
to  the  E.  of  the  Engelburg  yields  the  ^Rangener  wine',  which  is 
mentioned  by  the  German  historian  Miinster  as  early  as  1550.  — 
The  Staufen  (1690  ft.),  1 V2  M.  from  Thann,  is  a  fine  point  of  view. 

Fbom  Thann  to  thb  Gbossb  Bblchbn,  5  hrs.,  by  an  easy  and  attractive 
route.    Starting  from  the  rail,  station,  we  proceed  to  the  K.,  crossing  the 


350   Route  44.  WESSERLING.  Tht  Upper 

Thur  and  ascending  the  Kattehbaeh-Thal^  via  the  Patteten-Plate,  to  OVf^rs.) 
the  ThomaruM-Platx  (2982  ft.),  whence  a  visit  may  be  made,  to  the  left,  to 
the  (4  min.)  Otteinfels,  commanding  a  splendid  view  of  the  Belchen.  From 
the  Thomanns-Platz  we  ascend  in  Va  hr.  to  the  Molkenrain  (3690  ft. ;  wide 
view),  and  thence  in  the  same  direction  to  the  dairy  of  Freunditein  (rfmts.), 
and,  passing  below  the  rain  of  the  same  name,  to  the  (ii/fbr.)  Ftrttacker^ 
the  saddle  between  the  Sudel  (3310  ft.)  and  the  Belchen.  Finally  we  traverse 
the  flat  pastures  on  the  ridge  to  the  BelchenhUtte  (rfmts.)  and  the  (I-IV4  hr.) 
BdcTunhaut  (p.  349). 

Fbosi  Thank  to  St.  Auasin  ob  Hasmdnstks  (red  and  white  marks  as 
far  as  the  Rossberg).  We  keep  to  1  the  W.  over  the  three  saddles  N<g>oleont' 
Fiatz^  Dieboldtcherer^i  Ebene^  and  HundtrUcken ;  then  proceed  to  the  N.W. 
to  the  (2Vi  brs.)  Mittlere  Rossberg  -  ffHtte  or  Kolbs^HHtte  (2962  ft.;  rfmts.), 
situated  between  the  Rossberg  (3906  ft.)  on  the  left  and  the  Thanner  HUbel 
(3876  ft. ;  ascent  recommended  in  clear  weather)  on  the  right.  We  then 
ascend  to  the  ridge  of  the  Bossbere  and  proceed  along  the  ^Hanptronte^  (see 
below)  either  to  the  K.  to  (2  hrs.)  St.  Amarin,  or  to  the  S.  to  (2Vs  l^'s.) 
McumUmUr, 

I41/2  M.  BitschweiUr,  15 V2  M.  WeiUr  (1215  ft.),  two  industrial 
villages,  with  modern  Gothic  charches.  —  The  line  now  skirts  the 
left  bank  of  the  stream.  17^2  M.  MooscK 

18^2  M.  St.  Amarin  (1390  ft.;  Ooldener  Lowt,  very  fair;  JTdm- 
merlin)^  one  of  the  most  ancient  places  in  the  valley,  to  which  it 
has  given  its  name. 

Thb  Orossb  Belghbn  (p.  349)  is  ascsnded  from  St.  Amarin  by  a  pretty, 
shady  path  (marked  red)  in  2^/4  hrs. 

Fbom  St.  Amabin  to  ]Llsu6n8tbb,  6^1/2  hrs.  by  the  'Hanptronte'  (red 
marks)  of  the  Vosges  Club.  We  leave  the  station,  cross  the  Thur,  and 
ascend  the  B.  slope  of  the  Hirschbachkopf  to  the  Drei-MarkitHn  (2493  ft.)-, 
then  throueh  wood,  in  about  2  hrs.,  to  the  meadow  of  the  Belacker  dairy 
(rfmts.  •,  l^^hr.  to  the  W.  is  the  Stemsee-Sattel,  mentioned  below).  Proceed- 
ing via  the  Falkensteine  or  Vogelsteine  (3870  ft.  \  superb  view  from  the  rocks), 
and  continuing  along  the  ridge,  we  reach  the  Rossberg  (3906  ft.)  in  1  hr.  We 
next  pass  the  ffmtere  and  the  Vordere  ffirzensteia  (dSdO  ft  \  good  view)  and 
descend  through  the  Willerbach-Thal  to  (2  hrs.)  MasmUnster  (p.  351).  —  The 
Hittlere  Rossberg-Hutte  (see  above)  lie^  about  Vthr.  to  the  £.  of  the  Vogel- 
steiae,  in  the  direction  of  Thann. 

2OV2  M.  Weiserling  (1433  ft. ;  H6tel  de  Wesserling,  near  the 
station,  very  fair),  a  place  of  modern  origin,  built  partly  on  what 
was  once  the  moraine  of  a  huge  glacier,  Is  a  colony  of  extensive 
cotton-factories,  with  numerous  pretty  villas  and  well-kept  pleasure- 
grounds  (between  the  station  and  the  hotel,  beyond  the  bridge). 
Carriage  to  Wildenstein  in  1 1/4  hr.,  8  Jf, 

On  the  W.  slope  of  the  range  separating  Alsace  from  Lorraine,  immed- 
iately beyond  the  Col  de  Bussang  (2362  ft.),  which  is  traversed  by  the  road 
to  Remircmont,  2-2Vshrs.  from  Wesserling,  the  Moselle  takes  its  rise.  On 
the  top  is  a  tunnel  about  300  paces  in  length,  with  a  boundary-stone  in 
the  middle;  some  300  yards  beyond  the  tunnel,  to  the  left  of  the  road, 
is  the  source  of  the  Moselle. 

FnoM  Wessebling  to  Obebbbdck  (6  hrs.).  About  i'/iM.  from  Wesserling, 
on  the  road  to  the  Col  de  Bussang,  lies  the  village  of  Urbis  (1476  ft. ;  Couronne), 
11/4  M.  beyond  which,  to  the  left,  opens  the  BrUckenbatih'Thal^  through  which 
we  ascend  to  ^U  hrs.)  the  Stemsee-SaUel  (3606  ft.).  Thence,  skirting  the 
basin  of  the  Sternsee  (3?30  ft.),  which  lies  far  below,  we  proceed  along  a 
lev-el  path,  past  the  Obere  Bers  Dcdry^  to  the  N^weQur^  two  little  lakes  in 
an  imposing  setting  (2703  ft).  Following  the  outflow  of  these,  we  reach 
(2  hrs.)  Oberbruck  (p.  351).  —  From  the  ubere  Bers  a  route  leads  along  the 
frontier  on  the  crest  of  the  hill  to  the  Welsohe  Belchen  (p.  352),  in  2i^hrs. 


Vosges.  WILDENSTEIN.  44.  Route.  351 

From  Wbssbbling  to  Wildbnstbin,  7  M.,  a  pleasant  route  for 
pedestrians  (railway  to  KrQt  projected).  A  good  road  ascends  the 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Thur,  passing  through  the  thriving  villages 
of  Felleringen(OQhBB,  very  fair),  Oderen  (L5we ;  Adler),  and  (2V4  M.) 
Kruty  a  resort  of  pilgrims. 

About  IV2M.  beyond  Krut,  and  the  same  distance  below  Wilden- 
stein,  suddenly  rises  the  Scklossberg  ^  an  isolated  and  precipitous 
wooded  eminence,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  stand  the  ruins  of  Wilden- 
atein  (restaurant  in  summer).  This  stronghold  formerly  belonged  to 
the  Abbey  of  Murbach  (p.  d4i3),  by  which  it  was  surrendered  during 
the  Thirty  Years'  War  to  Marshal  Oaumont  de  la  Force.  In  1644  it 
was  taken  and  destroyed  by  General  von  Erlach,  the  commander  of 
the  Weimar  troops.  Fine  view. 

Wiideiistein  (1968  ft.,  Sonne),  the  highest  village  in  the  St. 
Amarin-Thal,  is  almost  entirely  shut  in  by  rocky  heights. 

A  good  path  leads  from  Wildenstein  to  the  Rothenbachho/  and  the  Roiken- 
baehkopf  (p.  347).  Thence  a  pleasant  walk  along  the  crest  of  the  hills,  either 
to  the  N.  via  the  Beinkopf  and  the  Hohneck  (p.  347)  to  the  Behiueht  (p.  346) 
in  41/2-5  hrs.,  or  to  the  S.  to  the  Grosse  Belchen  (p.  349). 

From  Wildenstein  across  the  Herrenberg  to  Metzeral  in  4V8  hrs.,  see 
p.  347. 


t  From  Sennlieim  to  Sewen.  —  Welsche  Belohen. 

I7V2M.  Baxlwat  from  Sennheim  to  Sewen  in  ca.  IVshr. 

Sennheim,  see  p.  349.  —  The  line  runs  to  the  S.  vl4  (3  M.) 
Aspach,  at  the  entrance  of  the  DoUer-Thal,  crosses  the  Doller^  and 
continues  along  Its  right  bank  to  (5  M.)  Bumhaupt,  (7  M.)  Qewen- 
heimj  and  (9M.)  Sentheim,  It  then  crosses  to  the  left  bank.  10  Y2^* 
Aue.  —  12  M.  Magmtixister,  Fr.  Massevattx  (1316  ft.;  Adler),  an  old 
town  with  4000  inhab.,  the  principal  place  in  the  Doller-Thaly  a 
picturesque  valley,  with  imposing  ramifications. 

From  Hasmunster,  via  the  Bossbei^,  to  Thann  or  St.  Amarin^  see  p.  350. 

138/4  M.  Niederbruck;  i6M,  Kirchberg-Wegscheid.  —  I6V4  M. 
Oherhruck  (Sternsee),  at  the  entrance  to  a  side-valley  on  the  N.,  the 
road  through  which  leads  to  (I8/4  M.)  Rimhach  (Krone). 

From  Bimbach  we  may  aseend  to  the  Sternsee  (p.  350)  in  !>/>  hr. 

171/2  M.  Sewen  (Krone,  very  fair;  Hirsch),  the  terminus  of  the 
line  and  the  best  starting-point  for  the  ascentof  the  Welsche  Belchen. 

We  follow  the  road  from  the  station  to  the  beginning  of  the 
village,  and,  after  crossing  the  Seebach,  continue  along  the  road 
ascending  on  the  right  bank.  At  a  finger-post  we  take  the  foot- 
path to  the  right,  which  leads  past  the  Sewensee  and  the  Hohlenbach- 
fdlle  (finger-  post)  to  the  (1  hr.)  Alfeldsee  (2618  ft. ;  inn  at  the 
keeper's),  the  largest  of  the  reservoir-lakes  in  the  Yosges,  situated 
amidst  imposing  surroundings.  We  go  on  by  the  road  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  lake  until  we  come  to  (8/4  M.)  an  ascending  path  on 
the  left  (splendid  glimpses  of  the  precipices  of  theJBelchen).   In 

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352   RouU46.  BRUOHSAL. 

13/4  hr.  more  we  reach  the  ridge,  wMch  forms  the  frontier,  and  strike, 
on  the  French', side,  the  highroad  that  runs  from  Belfortto  St.  Maurice. 
From  the  Hdtel  du  Ballon  (very  fair),  which  lies  to  the  right,  we 
ascend  in  i/2  hr.  to  the  top  of  the  Welsche  Belchen  or  Batton  d' Alsace 
(4083  ft. ;  inn  at  the  farm  below  the  summit).  The  view  (mountain 
indicator)  is  magnificent,  especially  in  the  direction  of  Belfort;  to 
the  N.W.  it  is  somewhat  limited  by  the  Ballon  de  Strvance  (3900  ft), 
which  is  strongly  fortified. 

We  return  to  the  Hdtel  da  Ballon,  and  descend  tbe  road  as  far  as  the 
^ustom-hoose,  where  we  turn  io  tbe  left  by  tbe  footpath  to  tbe  frontier. 
A  footpath  to  the  rigbt,  before  we  reach  the  latter,  leads  over  the  frontier 
ridge  to  the  Barenhopf  (3518  ft.;  wide  view)  and  the  Budel  (2998  ft.).  —  From 
tbe  B'arenkopf  we  may  descend  vi&  Niederhruck  or  from  tbe  Sudel,  vi&  tiie 
0asthaus8chimmel(yeTj  fair;  frequented  as  a  summer-resort),  toHasm&nster. 
—  From  tbe  Welsche  Belchen  a  route  leads  along;  the  crest  of  the  hill  to  the 
dairy  of  Obere  Bert  and  the  Stemsee-Battei  (p.  80O). 

45.  From  Heidelberg  to  Baden. 

57Va  M.  Railway  in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  7  UT  70,  5  UT  15,  8  UT  20  pf. ; 
express,  8  Ul^  70,  6  Ul^  15  pf.)-  Carriages  generally  changed  at  Oos,  the 
junction  for  Baden. 

Heidelberg  J  see  p.  264.  2^2  ^*  Kirehheimi  3^2  M.  Leimen; 
5  M.  St.  Ilgen ;  68/4M.  WaUdorf-Nussloch,  9  M.  Wiealoch,  junction  for 
localraUway8toMecke8heim(12M.;p.276)andWaldangelloch(10M.). 
The  village  is  8/4  M.  from  the  line.  —  12  M.  Both-McUsch;  I3V2M. 
Mingolsheim.  Before  reaching  Langenbriicken,  we  pass,  on  the  right, 
Kislau,  formerly  a  hunting-seat  of  the  Prince-Bishops  of  Speyer,  and 
now  a  penitentiary  for  women.  15  M.  Langenbrucken  (360  ft.^  Ochs ; 
Bonne),  a  small  village  with  sulphur-baths  (^.malienbad);  17i/2  Vbstadt, 

2OV2  M.  Brnchsal  (370  ft. ;  *Bail,  Restaurant,  at  the  back  of  the 
station;  H6tel  KelUr,  near  the  station,  R.  2-3  UT;  H6ta  Postj  in 
the  town,  with  vine-restaurant,  very  fair ;  Bestanarant  Hohenegger'jf 
a  town  with  13,600  inhab.,  was  once  the  residence  of  the  Bishops 
of  Speyer,  whose  *Schlos8,  built  in  1722-70  and  elegantly  fitted  up 
and  adorned  with  stucco-ornamentation  by  J.  M.  Feichtmeier  and 
frescoes  by  Zlck,  merits  a  visit.  The  large  red  sandstone  castellated 
building  to  the  left  of  the  line  is  a  Prison.  The  Church  of  8U  Peter 
contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  last  bishops.  The  War  Monnmentj 
commemorating  the  campaign  of  1870-71,  is  in  the  German  Renais- 
sance style.  —  Bruchsal  is  the  junction  for  the  Wurtemberg  line ; 
comp.  Baedeker's  Southern  Germany . 

FaoM  Brdohsal  to  Gsrmershbim,  16  M.,  railway  in  >/4-l*/i  bv.  (fares 
2  ur  80,  1  ur  90,  1  ur  20  pf.).  stations:  2i/s  M.  KarUdorf;  67s  M.  Oraben- 
Ntudorf  i^.  279)}  9  M.  Buttenh^mf  11  M.  PMl^psburg;  13  H.  RheinshHm. 
The  train  then  crosses  the  Rhine.  —  i%  H.  Oermersfieimy  see  p.  298. 

On  the  Michaeisberg ,  near  (2872  ^0  Vnter-Orombach,  stands 
the  old  Michaels 'Capelle  (855  ft.;  restaurant).  On  a  hill  near 
(26  M.)  Weingarten  rises  the  tower  of  the  ruin  of  SchmaUnstein. 

31  M.  Durlaeh  (880  ft. ;  Karlsburg ;  Amalimbad^  Vi  ^*  ^^  ^^ 


WILDBAD.  45,  Route.    353 

Btation),  a  small  town  with  11,300  inhab.,  the  residence  of  the  Mar- 
graves of  Baden-Durlach  from  1565  to  1715,  was  almost  entirely 
burned  down  by  the  French  in  1688.  The  Thurmberg  (840  ft.;  cable- 
railway  to  the  summit!  commands  a  splendid  view  (view-tower). 

From  Durlach  to  Heilbronn,  see  Baedeker's  Southern  Oermany. 

From  Durlaoh  to  Pforzheim,  16  H. ;  thence  to  Wildbad,  U'/s  M. 
more.  Railway  to  Wildbad  in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  4  UT  40,  3  UT,  i  UT  90  pf.)  — 
The  train  traversea  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Pfint.  11/2  M.  OrdUingen;  3  M. 
Berffhcnuen;  41/2  M.  Bdllingen;  6  M.  Eleinsteinbach ;  7>/s  M.  Wil/erdingen 
(Krone);  9V*  M.   Kdnigtbach;  12  M.  Ersingen;  14  M.  Ispringen. 

16  M.  Pforzheim  (918  ft. ;  B6tel  International,  at  the  railway-station  •, 
Foet,  B.  2-3  Jt,  very  fairi  Dr.  FriedricK'e  Hydropathic)^  a  thriving  manu- 
facturing town,  with  44,000  inhab.,  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Em^  the 
WUrtn,  and  the  Nagold.  The  manufacture  of  gold  and  silver  wares  carried 
on  here  employs  upwards  of  12,(XX)  workmen.  Close  to  the  station  is  a 
monument  to  the  Emperor  William  L  The  Schlosakirche,  erected  in  the 
12-15th  cent,  in  the  Transition  style,  contains  a  number  of  monuments  of 
the  Margraves  of  Baden  of  the  16th  century.  In  the  Carl-Friedrich-Str. 
is  a  Statue  of  Margrave  Ei'nest  (1535-58) ,  the  founder  of  the  now  extinct 
Baden-Durlach-Ernestine  family.  —  From  Pforzheim  to  Wildbad  via  the 
BOchenbronner  HOhe  (2004  ft.)  6V2  hrs. ;  beginning  of  the  so-called  *H6hen- 
weg'  (p.  3S7).  —  Light  railway  from  Pforzheim  to  Oarlsruhc,  see  p.  364.  — 
A  branch-line  connects  Pforzheim  with  Hiihlacker.  where  it  joins  the 
Bruchsal  line  to  Stuttgart.  —  Railway  to  Calw,  Tubingen,  and  Constance, 
see  Baedeker's  Southern  Oermany. 

The  Wildbad  Railway  continues  to  follow  the  pleasant,  grassy  valley 
of  the  Ensy  which  now  contracts.     18  M.  BrOtzingen;  19V4  M.   Birken/eld. 

22V2  M.  Neuenbiirg  (Post;  Bdr),  a  picturesquely-situated  little  town, 
is  commanded  by  a  Schloss  (now  occupied  by  public  offices),  erected  in 
1658  by  Duke  Christopher  of  Wurtemberg  on  the  site  of  an  older  build- 
ing, on  a  wooded  height  encircled  by  the  Enz.  Adjoining  the  Schloss  is 
the  ruined  castle  called  the  Fruchtepeicher^  with  some  Roman  relics. 
Diligence  daily  to  Herrenalb  (12  M.;  p.  338). 

The  train  crosses  the  Enz,  passes  under  the  Schlossberg  by  a  tunnel, 
and  again  crosses  the  stream.  25  M.  Bx>(henhach^  with  a  large  saw-mill; 
26V«  M.  HOfen;  29  M.  Calmbaeh  (Sonne,  very  fair). 

30V«M.  WUdbad.  —  •Royal  Bath  Hotel.,  with  Hft,  R.  SVa-eVa,  B.  IV4, 
D.  3Vi  UT;  •Klumpp  turn  Bdren,  with  lift,  R.  fr«.m  31/2,  B.  l"/4,  D.  at 
1  p.m.  3Vi,  board  6V»  M;  *Bellevue,  B.  from  3,  B.  IV4,  D.  3V2  UT,-  •Poet, 
R.  2Vr4>  2,  B.  I,  D.  81/2.  pen*«.  7-11  Jt;  Hdiel  de  Russie,  R.  2-6,  B.  1,  D.  2»/4, 
pens.  6-9V2Ur;  Hdtel  F/etffer,  R.  2-3,  B.  V4-I,  D.  2,  pens.  6-8  Jf;  Ooldener 
Ochs,  R.  IV2-4,  B.  60-80  pf.  i  Grqf  Eberhard.  —  Cafi-Reetaurant  at  the  Bath 
Hotel.  —  VUitore"  Tax,  4  Jt  per  week,  12  Jt  for  four  week^.  —  English 
Church  Service^  see  below. 

Wildbad  (1476  ft.),  a  much-frequented  watering-place  with  3600  inhab., 
lies  in  the  pine-clad  ravine  of  the  Enx^  on  both  sides  of  the  stream.  The 
principal  street,  the  bath-establishments,  and  the  hotels  are  on  the  right 
bank;  the  railway-station  lies  on  the  other  bank,  at  the  1?.  or  lower  end 
of  the  town.  In  the  Cur-Platz,  at  the  end  of  the  Haupt-Strasse,  rise 
the  Royal  Bath  Hotel  or  Curhaus^  with  caf^,  reading,  and  ball  rooms  (music 
8-9  a.m.  and  6-7  p.m.).  and  the  large  Bath  House.  The  slightly  alkaline 
thermal  springs  (94-180"  Fahr.),  which  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  gout  and 
rheumatism,  rise  immediately  from  the  sand  in  the  baths  for  each  sex, 
capable  of  containing  20  persons  each  (IV2  Jii  30  private  baths,  2  Jt). 
Annual  number  of  patients  about  6500.  From  beside  ih^  Katharinenslift,  or 
bath  for  the  poor,  a  bridge  leads  to  the  K6nig-Karl-Bad,  a  domed  structure 
in  the  Renaissance  style,  with  accommodation  for  17  bathers.  Adjacent 
is  an  elegant  iron  TiHnkhalle  (with  music-pavilion),  and  farther  on  is  a 
small  Theatre.  The  English  Church  is  open  for  service  during  the  season. 
Walks  and  pleasure-grounds  extend  on  both  sides  of  the  river;  on  the  8. 
(upper)  side  of  the  village,  past  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  as  far  as  the 

Baedeker's  Rhine.   15th  Edit.  23*         _ 


354  Route  46.  CARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

(1  M.)  Windho/t  a  caf^,  and  on  the  19.  side,  opposite  the  railway-station,  to 
the  much-frequented  garden-restaurant  ^Zum  KHMen  Brunn€n\ 

Excursions.  A  road  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Ens,  passing  (3  M.)  the 
Kdlber-UiaUe,  where  there  is  a  large  pumping-station  supplying  water  to 
no  less  than  60  communities  in  this  part  of  the  Black  Forest,  to  (TVs  M.) 
EmklHsterle  (Waldhom)  and  (3  M.)  Oumpelscheuer  (Lamm),  and  thence 
to  (17  M.)  Freudenstadt  (p.  408).  —  From  the  Hdtel  Bellevue  we  may  ascend 
(Hohenweg,  p.  387)  via  the  Fllnf  Bdume  to  the  (2«/f  hrs.)  Wildtee,  which 
tradition  has  peopled  with  water-sprites,  and  thence  proceed  to  the  (»/4  hr.) 
shooting-lodge  of  Kaltenbronn  (2817  ft. :  fair  inn :  carriage-road  to  Beichenth&l, 
p.  892),  and  the  (>/«  hr.)  Hohloh  (3250  ft.  s  view-tower).  The  descent  via 
the  LaUcMg  to  Forbach  ($.  398)  takes  2  brs.  —  Bv  the  (4V8  M.)  Eyaeh-MUkie 
to  (2V8  M.)  Dobel  and  (3  M.)  Herrenalb^  see  p.  388. 

Beyond  Dmlach,  on  the  right  as  we  approach  Carlsruhe,  is 
Schloss  Oottesaue  (p.  361). 

341/2  M.  Carlsruhe,  see  below.  The  through-trains  to  Switzer- 
land generally  stop  here  for  dinner.  Railway  beyond  Carlsruhe, 
see  p.  361.  

Carlgrahe.  —  The  Railteay  StaHon  (PI.  E,  3-,  Restaurant,  D.  2Vs  Jf} 
is  on  the  8.  side  of  the  town ;  trains  to  Heidelberg,  see  above ;  to  Baden, 
see  p.  361 ;  to  Bastatt  and  Alsace,  see  p.  861 ;  to  Pforzheim  and  Wildbad, 
see  above:  to  Bretten  and  Wurtemberg,  see  Baedeker's  Southern  Oeitnanjf. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  town  there  is  a  small  station  CMiihlbui^erthor' ; 
PI.  B,  2)  for  the  trains  to  Maxau  (p.  361)  and  the  local  trains  to  Graben- 
Neudorf. 

Hotela.  Near  the  Station:  ^Gebmamia  (PI.  a;  D,  3),  at  the  comer  of 
the  Krieg-8tr.  and  Carl-Friedrich-Str.,  R.  from  2»/j,  B.  11/4,  D.  at  1  p.m.  8'/», 
pens,  from  7  UT;  Victoeia  (PI.  i;  E,  3),  Krieg-Str.  22,  E.  2V«-6,  B.  1,  D.  3, 
pens,  from  6  Jt ;  Monopol  (PI.  mi  E,  8);  Hotel  Lutz  (PI.  1:  E,  3),  R.  & 
B.  2»/8-3,  D.  2  UT;  GrOner  Hop  (PI.  d;  E,  3),  R.  A  B.  2«/f3»/4,  D.  I'A  Jl; 
National  (PI.  n;  E,  3),  R.  lV«-2»/«,  B.  3/^,  d.  from  li/a  UT,  all  these  also 
in  the  Krieg-Str.,  near  the  station ;  Park  Hotel  (PI.  p ;  D,  £,  3),  Kreuz-8tr.  37, 
with  caf^- restaurant;  Leicht  (PI.  o;  D,  E,  3),  Kreuz-Str.  19;  Fbiedrichs- 
Hop  (PI.  e;  D,  3),  Carl-Friedrich-Str.  7.  —  In  the  Town:  *H6tel  Grossb 
(PI.  c;  D,  2),  in  the  Markt-Platz,  with  electric  light  and  hot-air  heating, 
R.  from  2V2,  B.  1,  D.  2V21  pens.  6-10  Uff,  omn.  60  pf.  j  *Ebbpbinz  (PI.  b  \  D,  2), 
Kaiser-Str.,  with  caf^,  R.  2-IJ,  B.  1,  D.  from  IV2,  pens,  from  5  Jf-^  Goldmeb 
Adlee  (PI.  f ;  D,  3),  Carl-Friedrich-Str.,  R.  1V2-2  Jt;  Rothes  Haus  (PI.  g; 
D,  2),  Wald-Str.  2,  not  far  from  the  theatre,  well  spoken  of,  R.  l>/»-2.  — 
Hotel  Gabni  Tannhadser  (PI.  h;  C,  2),  Kaiser-8tr.  146. 

Reatauranta.  *Monninge)\  Kaiser-Str.  142,  with  garden;  ^Sladt-Oarten. 
D.  2-3  ur.  see  p.  361;  •iTroArodii  (PI.  K;  C,  2,  3),  Ludwigs-Plalz,  D.  IV4-IV4  M; 
Friedriehe-Hof  ^  see  above;  Erhprinz^  see  above;  KUhler  Krug,  Bannwald- 
Alle'e  2,  with  large  garden.  —  Win*.  In  the  Friedriehs-Ho/ ,  see  above; 
RathtkeUery  Lamm-Str. ,  below  the  Oaf^  Bauer;  Vier  Jahretzeiten,  BehBl' 
Str.  21;  Rodeneteinery  Herren-Str. 

CafSa.  *Cc^f4- Restaurant  Bauer,  Lamm-Str.  7d  (PI.  D,  2,  3);  Central, 
Kaiser-Str.,  near  the  market-place. 

Electric  Tramways.  From  the  railway-station  to  the  market-place,  the 
Mtihlburger  Tbor,  and  the  Grenadier  barracks  (PI.  A,  1);  from  the  Miihlbei^ 
Thor  to  Durlach  (p.  852).  to  the  Rhine  harbour  at  Muhlberg  (p.  361),  snd  to 
the  Kuhle  Krug  (see  above);  from  the  Kaiser-Strasse  to  Beier»heim  (p.  361). 

Steam  Tramways.  1.  From  the  MeuPkxtz  (PI.  D,  3, 4)  via  Ettiingen  (p.  861) 
to  Herrenalb  (p.  388)  on  the  one  side,  and  to  Ittersbach  and  Pforzheim  (p.  363) 
on  the  other.  —  2.  Through  the  Krieg-Str.  (PI.  B-E,  3)  to  (9ViM.)  Dwmers- 
hHm  on  the  W.,  and  past  the  Durlacher  Thor  to  (10  M.)  Bpdck  on  the  E. 

Oaba.  To  or  from  the  station,  1  pers.  60,  2  pers.  80  pf.,  3  pers.  1  UlT, 
4  pers.  1  Ulf  20,  each  package  of  luggage  20  pf.  —  Drives  within  the  townt 

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to  Baden,  CARLSltUHE.  46.  Route.   355 

one-horge,  1-2  pers.  for  >/«  ^r.  50,  3-4  pers.  70  pf.  r,  for  Va  hr.  i  Jf  or  i  Jf 
20  pf.  \  two-horse  80  pf.,  1  UT,  1  UT  30,  1  UT  70  pf.  —  To  the  Friedho/  or 
Gottesaue  i  j$,  1  Ulf  40  pf.,  two-horse  1  Ulf  40,  1  Ulf  80  pf. ;  to  the  SehHtzen- 
hau*  I  ur  40,  i  ur  70,  two-hopse  1  UT  70,  2  UT  80  pf.5  to  the  entrance  to 
the  mv9r  Harhovr  (p.  361)  1  UT  80,  2  UT  30,  two-horse  2  UT ,  2  UT  80  pf.  — 
After  dusk  10  pf.  more  for  each  V^^i**)  double  fares  from  9  p.m.  to  6  a.m. 
(in  winter  7). 

Pott  k  Telegraph  Office,  Kaiser-Str.  217. 

Theatres.  Covrt  Theatre  (PL  12  5  D,  2),  five  times  a  week  (box-office 
open  11-1);  Wagner's  and  other  operas  conducted  by/*.  Mottl.  Ihe  theatre 
is  closed  from  July  to  September.  —  Summer  Theatre  in  the  Stadt-Oarten 
(p.  361).  —  Colosseum^  Wald-Str.  16,  a  yariety-theatre. 

Baths.  Stddtische*  Viei-ordUbad  (PI.  D,  4),  near  the  Stadt- Garten, 
with  large  swimming-bath  \  FriedrieJubad,  Kaiser-Str.  136 ,  with  swimming- 
bath.  —  In  the  Rhine  y  at  Maxau  (p.  361),  to  which  special  trains  convey 
bathers  in  summer. 

English  Ohnreh  Service  in  the  chapel  of  the  Ludwig  Wilhelm  Eranken- 
heim,  Eaiser-Allde,  at  11  a.m.  and  4  p.m.    Chaplain,  Rev.  0.  Flex. 

CarUruhe  (320  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Grand-Duchy  of  Baden 
(100,000  inhab.,  including  MuJUburg  and  a  garrison  of  4070  men), 
situated  6  M.  from  the  Rhine,  on  the  W.  outskirts  of  the  Hardtwald, 
owes  its  origin  to  the  Margrave  Charles  William  of  Baden-Durlach, 
who  transferred  his  residence  hither  from  Durlach  in  1715.  The 
plan  of  the  old  town  resembles  a  fan ,  the  streets  radiating  from 
the  palace,  but  the  wide  new  streets  on  the  W.,  S.,  and  E.  are  less 
regular  in  plan.  The  importance  of  Carlsruhe  as  an  industrial  town 
has  increased  very  rapidly  since  1870,  its  principal  manufactures 
being  engines  and  railway-carriages,  furniture,  and  plated  goods. 

The  development  of  modem  German  architecture  may  be  very  dis- 
tinctly traced  in  Carlsruhe.  The  palace  and  the  other  older  buildings  are 
in  the  French  style  prevalent  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  The 
structures  of  the  next  period  exhibit  the  simple  and  harmoniou<<  classical 
forms  introduced  by  Friedrich  Weinbrenner  (1766-1826),  an  architect  who 
received  his  training  in  Borne.  His  principal  successors  were  HUbtch  (1795- 
1863)  and  ^<«entoAr  (18>i5-54),  who  erected  many  handsome  buildings  in  the 
modern  Bomanesque  (round-arched)  style,  and  long  determined  the  tone 
of  Carlsruhe  architecture.  The  stately  edifices  erected  in  recent  years  by 
BerekmUller  (d.  1879)  and  Durm  form  a  fourth  period,  together  with  the 
still  more  modern  buildings  (in  the  Kaiser-Str.  and  el -ewhere)  by  Curjel  A 
Uoeer^  Billing ^  Ratzd^  and  others. 

The  School  of  Art^  founded  at  Carlsruhe  in  1853,  has  contributed  not 
a  little  to  the  development  of  the  German  school  of  landscape-painting. 
Its  first  director  was  the  classical  painter  J.  W.  Schirmer  (18U7-63),  of  Dussel- 
dorf,  a  disciple  of  Lessing,  who  was  succeeded  by  ff.  Chtde.  Among  the 
artists  connected  with  the  school  may  be  mentioned  H.  Baiech,  0.  Schdnleber^ 
Fr.  KaUmorgen^  H.  von  Volkmann,  JSans  Thoma^  Ferd.  Keller^  and  L  Dill  (the 
last  three  siiU  living). 

The  railway-station  is  situated  outside  the  former  Ettlinger- 
Thor  fPl.  D,  3).  Near  it  are  a  bronze  statue  of  Winter  (PI.  6;. 
d.  183o),  the  minister,  designed  by  Reich,  a  War  Monument  (PI.  5) 
in  memory  of  1870-71,  by  Volz,  and  other  monuments. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Cael-Fribdrich-Strassb  (PI.  D,  3,  2), 
which  extends  hence  northwards  to  the  palace  (8/4  M.),  stands  a  hand- 
some Fountain  (PI.  25).  In  the  Rondel-Platz,  farther  on,  rises  an 
Obelisk  ('Verfassungssaule*;  PI.  D,  3),  with  a  medallion  of  Grand- 
Puke  Charles  (1811-18)j  on  the  right  is  the  Margrave's  Palace^  by 

23*         3^^ 


356  BouU46,  CARLSRUUE.  From  Heidelberg 

Weinbrenner.  The  Landes-OewerbehalU  (¥\.  23i),  farther  on  to 
the  right,  contains  a  good  industrial  museum  and  a  technical  library ; 
admission  daily,  except  Mon.,  10-12  (on  Sun.  11-12)  and  2-4.  Ad- 
joining, at  the  comer  of  the  Hebel-Str. ,  is  the  Bezirks-Amt  (PI.  11), 
buUt  in  1897-98. 

On  the  left  side  of  the  Market  Plaob  (PI.  D,  2)  is  the  Town 
Hall  (PI.  31),  built  in  1821 ,  in  front  of  which  are  two  colossal  bronze 
figures  of  Baden  and  Carlsruhe,  by  Hirt  (1900).  On  the  right  is  the 
Protestarht  Church  (PI.  17),  with  a  Corinthian  portico,  the  burial- 
church  of  the  grand-ducal  family.  Both  these  edifices  are  by  Wein- 
brenner. In  the  centre  of  the  market-place  is  a  fountain  with  a 
Statue  of  the  Orand-Duke  Lewis  (1818-30;  PL  3),  by  Raufer. 

Near  the  intersection  of  the  Carl-Friedrich-Strasse  with  the 
Kaiser-Strasse  (p.  360)  is  a  Pyramid  (PI.  7)  in  honour  of  Margrave 
Charles  William  (p.  365),  who  is  buried  here;  it  is  to  be  replaced 
by  an  equestrian  statue. 

In  front  of  the  palace,  in  the  centre  of  a  square  embellished 
with  gardens  and  fountains,  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  the  Qrand-Duke 
Charles  Frederick  (PI.  2;  d.  1811),  by  Schwanthaler  (1844). 

The  Falaee  (PI.  D,  1),  erected  in  1750-82  from  L.  BettCs  designs, 
is  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle ,  and  surmounted  by  the  Bleithurm 
(150  ft.),  which  affords  an  extensive  view.  The  dining-hall,  ball- 
room, and  other  apartments  are  sumptuously  fitted  up.  —  The  E. 
wing  contains  the  Zdhringen  Museum  (PI.  27;  D,  1),  a  collection 
of  art-objects  and  curiosities  connected  with  the  ducal  house  (adm. 
May,  June,  and  Sept.  daily,  U-l),  and  also  the  Ducal  Stables  (open 
12-4). 

In  the  crescent  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Schloss-Platz,  connected 
with  the  Schloss  by  an  arcade,  is  the  Oonrt  Theatre  (PI.  12), 
erected  in  1851-53,  by  Hubsch,  The  reliefs  in  the  pediment  are 
by  Reich, 

Arched  passages  in  the  wings  of  the  Schloss  lead  to  the  Palace  Garden 
(PI.  D,  1),  embellished  with  fountains,  sculptures,  etc.  Among  the  sculp- 
tures are  a  small  monument  to  S^el  (PI.  4;  p.  426)  and  a  group  of  Her- 
mann and  Dorothea.  The  garden  extends  into  the  Eardtwald  and  the 
WUd-Park. 

Behind  the  Court  Theatre  is  the  Botanic  Garden  (PI.  D,  1,  2;  closed 
on  Sat.  and  Sun.,  and  from  12  to  2  on  other  days),  with  a  Wintks  GAaDSM 
(PL  48;  open  on  Hon..  Wed.,  and  Frid.,  10-12  and  2-4),  containing  a 
palm-house,  pond  for  the  Victoria  Begia,  orangery,  green-tiouses,  etc. 

Adjacent  is  the  •HaU  of  Art  (PI.  21 ;  P,  2),  buUt  by  Hubsch 
(1836-45)  in  the  modern  Romanesque  style,  with  a  new  wing  (1896) 
by  Durm,  The  entrance  is  in  the  Linkenheimer-Strasse.  The 
sculptures  at  the  entrance  are  by  Reich ;  those  on  the  rear-facade 
by  Ad,  Heer.  The  collections  are  open  to  the  public  on  Wed.  and 
Sun.  (also  Frid.  in  summer),  11-1  and  2-4;  at  other  times  fee  50  pf. 
—  The  paintings  are  arranged  In  schools ;  catalogue  60  pf .  Director, 
Hans  Thoma. 

Ground  Floor.  Extensive  collection  of  casts,  arranged  in  historical 
order  i  also,  in  the  new  wing,  some  modem  models  and  original  works. 


to  Baden.  CARLSRUHE.  45.  Route,  357 

Staircase.  Frescoes  by  >Sf<jAw««d  (1840) :  Consecration  of  Freiburg  Cath- 
edral by  Duke  Conrad  of  Zabringen;  to  the  right,  Hans  Baldnng  Grien 
painting  the  Msurgrave  Christopher  I.  (see  below).  —  The  allegorical  paint- 
ings in  the  lunettes  are  by  Sc/ttoind  and  Qleiehauf:  that  in  the  middle 
represents  Art  protected  by  the  Church  and  State.  Here  also  are:  left. 
No.  542.  F.  DieU,  Destruction  of  Heidelberg  by  M^lac;  right  752.  P.  Veit^ 
Introduction  of  Christianity  into  Germany  (cartoon  for  the  fresco  mentioned 
at  p.  239). 

First  Floor.  Fiest  Cokridob  (to  the  right):  Early  German  Schools 
(15-ieth  cent.).  Eight  Wall:  above,  MulUchery  32.  Death  of  the  Virgin  38. 
Crucifixion  (ca.  UttO);  70.  Burgkmair^  Pieta;  44.  Bart.  Zeitblom^  Priest 
bestowing  the  blessing;  61.  B.  Strigely  Annunciation;  above,  48.  Upper 
Swabian  School,  ^Landenberg  Altar'  (ca.  1500),  with  Crucifixion  in  the  centre 
and  SB.  Pelagius  and  Conrad  at  the  sides;  B.  Strigel,  OH.  Christ  washing 
his  disciples'  feet,  *60.  Mocking  of  Christ,  *d9.  Piet&;  97.  Mom  von  Kuhn- 
hach,  Winged  altar-piece,  with  four  saints  in  the  centre,  and  on  the  sides 
the  mas3hcre  of  10,000  Christians  by  King  Sapor  of  Persia  (after  Durer) 
and  the  miraculous  raising  of  a  dead  man  to  life;  84.  Bchaufelin^  Cucifixion 
(1515) ^  153.  B.  van  Orley,  Winged  altar-piece,  a  late  work;  158.  JT.  Neu- 
chatel,  Portraits  of  a  married  couple  (1572). 

Cabinet  1.  To  the  right:  139.  Style  of  Memling,  Portrait;  164.  Ad.  EU- 
Tuimer^  St.  Lawrence;  L.  Oranach  the  Elder ^  121.  Luther  in  death  (studio- 
piece),  109.  Judgment  of  Paris;  105.  M.  Qerung  (after  B.  Beham),  'Justitia 
dormit";  67.  M.  Holbein  the  Younger^  Erasmus. 

Cabinet  2,  containing  some  of  the  finest  examples  of  the  early-German 
school:  *b96,  897.  M  QrHnewald^  Crucifixion,  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  from 
the  church  at  Tauberbisctiofsheim ;  36.  M.  SchOngauer,  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin;  ffolbein  the  Younger^  64.  Bear'ng  of  the  Cross  (with  numerous  figures, 
painted  in  15 15  in  his  fathers  studio),  65.  St.  Ursula,  66.  St.  George  (1522); 
70,  79.  U.  Schaffner,  S3.  Peter  and  Paul ;  Hone  Baldung  Grien^  87.  Murgrave 
Christopher  1.  of  Baden,  8S.  Margrave  Christopher  I.  and  his  family  kneeling 
before  the  Virgin  and  St.  Anna  (1511),  ♦90.  St.  Joseph  and  the  Madonna 
(fragment  of  an  Adoration  of  the  Child;  1539);  430.  G.  Pencz^  Veit  Hirsch- 
Togel  the  Younger,  glass-painter  of  Nuremberg  (1545);  155.  Lucae  van  Leyden^ 
Adoration  of  the  Magi. 

Boom  I.  Mainly  Netherlandish  works  of  the  17th  century.  To  the  right : 
/.  a.  Chardin,  499,  *498.  Animal-pieces,  496,  497.  Still-life;  380.  /.  van 
Huytvm^  Flowers  (1714).  —  *345,  346,  814.  M.  dHondecoeier^  Poultry;  377, 
876.  Rachel  Ruysch^  Still-life;  ♦238.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  himself  (ca.  1645); 
251.  C.  Sc^ftleven,  Job  tormented  by  evil  spirits;  850.  W.  van  Aeltt,  Still-life; 
259.  Fieter  de  Hooch,  Woman  and  girl  in  a  room  overlooking  a  garden; 
335.  /.  van  Ruytdael,  Wood-scenes;  ^.  J.  D.  de  Heem,  Still-life.  —  Above 
the  door,  218.  F.  Snydertil),  Cabbages;  186.  /.  Jordaent,  Moses  smiting  the 
rock;  283,  284.  C,  Janson  van  Ceulen,  Lifesize  portraits;  171.  Fr.  Francken 
the  Younger,  Parable  of  the  Prodigal  Son.  —  301.  Karel  du  Jardin,  Shep- 
herdess; *270,  271.  P.  van  Slingelandt,  Domestic  scenes;  *260.  Jan  Steen, 
Young  couple  in  a  garden;  318.  Jan  Both,  Italian  landscape;  ♦261.  Gabnel 
Ifettu,  Declaration  of  love  (1667) ;  *269.  P.  van  Slingelandt,  Domestic  scene ; 
264.  Caspar  Netecher,  Death  of  Cleopatra  (1673);  262.  Jac.  Ochtet-veU ,  De- 
claration of  love;  above,  "235.  Bart/i.  van  der  HeUt,  Young  couple  (1661). 
—  ♦495.  Chardin,  Orange-tree;  356.  W.  C.  Heda,  361.  /.  D.  de  Heem,  Sau- 
life;  339.  Jan  van  der  Heyde,  Dutch  canal;  250.  C.  Saftleoen^  Operation; 
198.  D.  Tenitre  the  Younger ,  Peasant  scene ;  above,  152.  Jan  van  Heme'ssen^ 
Bad  company. 

Boom  II.  French,  Italian  (partly  copies),  and  Spa-^ish  Schools.  To  the 
right:  ♦468.  Phil,  de  Champaigne,  Portrait  (166S).  —  409.  Lor.  di  Credit  Holy 
Family;  449.  Mich.  Angelo  da  Caravaggio,  Laughing  toper;  Salvator  Rosa^ 
Two  landscapes.  —  ^416.  Ang.  Feuerbach,  Small  copy  of  Titian's  Assumption 
at  Venice;  427.  A.  Solario,  Madonna;  46i.  lAtca  Giordano,  Christ  with  the 
woman  taken  in  adultery.  —  486.  GiuUo  Romano,  Bape  of  the  Leucip- 
pidee ;  5(K2.  Pedro  de  Moya ,  Fortune  -  teller.  —  473.  N.  Largilli^e ,  Mme. 
Adelaide  of  France  (daughter  of  Louis  XV.)  as  Flora. 

Cabinet  3.    Various  schools.    Left  end-wall:  4U3.  Niccolo  da  Foligno, 


358  Route  46. 


CARLSRUHE. 


From  Heiddherg 


Gruciflxion,  with  Pope  Gregory  the  Great  below  (1468:  from  a  chnrcli- 
banner);  *404.  Vittore  Pisano,  Adoration  of  the  Holy  ChUd.  —  479,  480. 
Fr.  Boucher,  Pastoral  scenes;  483  Oreute,  Louis  XVI.;  477,  478.  Qn'mou^ 
Portraits  of  girls.  —  188.  Jacqnet  Fouqirier,  View  of  Heidelberg  (1620). 

Cabinet  4.  Dutch  works  (17th  cent.).  To  the  right:  2^.  Gerard 
Dou,  Bepentant  Magdalen;  832.  Aart  van  der  Neer,  Moon-lit  landscape;  280. 
Bglon  van  der  Neer^  Boy  and  bird;  290.  Adr.  van  de 
Velde^  Cattle  (1632);  329.  Jan  WynanU,  Landscape  (with 
figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde);  191.  Ad.  Brouwer,  Dentist. 
^  Adr.  van  Ostade,  244,  245.  Peasant-scenes  (youthful 
works),  247.  Smoker,  248.  Draught-players,  246.  Writer; 
"266.  G.  Don,  Cook  at  a  window  (1^);  292,  291.  A.  van 
de  Velde,  Cattle;  272.  Frans  van  MieH*  the  Elder,  Half- 
length  portrait  (early  work).  —  267.  G.  Dou,  Lace-maker; 
248.  P.  Oodde,  Guard-room ;  *192.  Adr.  Browser,  Sleeping 


2. 
Cab. 

Cab.7 
— t  J- 


I.  Boom. 


8.  Cab. 


I 


I 


7.  Cab. 


II. 
Boom. 


First  Corridor. 


Staircase. 


UI. 
Boom. 


VII.  Boom. 


VI.  Boom. 


V.  Boom. 


IV.  Boom. 


8. 
Cab. 


Cab. 


Third  Corridor- 


peasant;  199.  D.  !Peniere  the  Younger,  Toper.  —  The  following  rooms  con- 
tain the  modem  paintings. 

Cabimst  6.  963.  8chdnlebery  Besigheim;  791.  F.  Adam,  After  the  battle  of 
Worth ;  898.  Klaus  Meyer,  Pause  in  the  sitting ;  781.  E,  Lugo,  Idyll.  —  Oabinkt  6. 
659.  Verboeekhoven ,  Sheep;  525.  W.  LindenechmU  the  Elder,  Battle  of  the 
Teutoburgian  Forest;  nS^.  J.  A.  Koch,  Historical  landscape;  '251.  M.  von 
Sehteind,  Bitter  Kurt's  Bridal  Procession  (Goethe),  a  humorous  composition 
in  the  old-German  manner,  bearing  the  motto,  ^Widersacher,  Weiber, 
Schulden,  ach !  kein  Bitter  wird  sie  los'  (Of  foes,  women,  and  debts,  alas  ! 
no  knight  can  get  rid);  "509.  Overbeck,  Raising  of  Lazarus.  —  Cabinet  7. 
Rottmann,  *594.  Lake  Gopais,  595.  Delos-,  620.  A.  Achenbaeh,  Iforwegian 
landscape  (early  work;  1^7);  564,  563.  /.  B.  Kirner,  Bustic  scenes  in  the 
Black  Forest  and  Switzerland. 

Boom  III.  To  the  right:  above,  619.  A.  Aehenbach,  Steamer  colliding 
with  an  iceberg  (1842);  798.  Fr.  Adam,  Horse-catching  on  the  Pushta;  647. 
A.  von  Bayer,  Freiburg  Cathedral;  608.  C.  Morgenstern,  The  Ammer-Thal; 
575.  Hiddemann,  Westphalian  funeral. 

Boom  IV.  To  the  right:  893.  B.  von  Steinle,  St.  Luke  painting  the 
Madonna;  •932.  PoeUdberger,  The  farewell;  934.  ZUgel,  Sheep;  *935.  Count 
Kaikreuth,  Qoudy  weather ;  Eyten,  '954.  Near  Cronberg,  965.  StiU-life ;  •963. 
Em.  Lugo,  TheSchluchsee;  969.  Haeemann,  Spinning  in  the  Black  Forest;  879, 
878.  H.  Baisch,  Dutch  landscapes;  883.  H.  Gude,  Scottish  coast;  W.  TrUbner, 
«899.  Caesar  at  the  Bubicon,  900.  In  church;  889.  H.  von  Volkmann,  Land- 
scape; 596.  K.  Rottmann,  Buined  temple  in  .£gina;  802.  K.  Meyer,  Infant- 
school  at  Ueberlingen;  867.  W.  Vole,  St.  Cecilia;  "=933.  H.  Thoma,  The  Bhine 
at  Sackingen. 

Boom  V.  Entrance-wall :  552.  Nikutowski,  Passage  of  the  Beresina  in 
1812;  611.  /.  W.  Sehirmer,  Via  Mala;  522.  Winterhalter,  Grand-Duke  Leo- 
pold. —  771.  G.  Schdnleher,  Dutch  village;  797.  Fr.  Defregger,  The  youn? 
Sainter ;  564.  F.  KeUer,  Margrave  Lewis  William  of  Baden  at  the  battle  of 
alankemen  (p.  366).  —  637.  H.  Gude,  l^orwegian  coast;  801.  Fr.  Kallmorgen, 
Inundation.  —  588.  E.  F,  Letting,  Crusaders  in  the  desert;  618^6.  J.  W, 


to  Baden.  OARLSRUHE.  45.  Route.  359 

Schirmer,  Landscapes  with  the  parable  of  the  Good  Samaritan;  643.  F.  Dietz^ 
Gustavus  Adolphus  lying  in  state;  767.  J.WengUin^  Moor  in  the  highlands; 
875.  H.  Baischy  May  Day  in  Holland;  612.  /.  W.8chirmer^  Approaching  storm 
in  the  Gampagna. 

EooM  VI.  Ansehn  Feuerhaeh,  *560.  Colossal  figure  of  Poetry  (1856), 
*551.  Dante  and  the  Ladies  of  Ravenna ;  548.  J.  ScholtZy  Wallenstein's  ban- 
quet. —  869.  F.  Keller,  Bmp.  William  II.  —  A.  Fnterbach,  549.  Silenus  and 
Bacchus,  823.  Flowers,  822.  Portrait  of  himself  (1878),  •813.  Banquet  of 
Plato;  *880.  H.  BaUch,  Utan  on  the  Lower  Rhine;  819.  G.  ScMnteber,  Scene 
on  the  Neckar;  570.  A.  Tidemand,  The  grandmother's  bridal  crown.  —  874. 
2/.  J?oi;«;inann,  Ho) stein  village  on  fire;  ^.  B.  Vautier^A  visit  to  the  room 
of  the  quality ;  K.  F.  Letting ,  535.  Scene  in  the  Harz,  534.  Dispute  between 
Luther  (left)  and  Dr.  Eck  (right)  at  Leipsic  in  1519  in  presence  of  Duke 
Qeorge  of  Saxony  and  Prince  Barnim  of  Pomerania:  577.  W.  Soha,  A  ques- 
tion of  conscience;^  959.  L.  Dilly  Flooded  sage-nelds;  958.  A.  BScklin, 
Poverty  and  Care. 

Boom  VII.  Kos.  790,  866,  &  869  are  water-colours,  illustrating  the 
costumes  of  Baden  peasants  at  the  procession  in  honour  of  the  silver- 
wedding  of  the  Grand-Duke  Frederick  (1881),  and  painted  by  Tutiini  and 
Itsel.  Cartoons  by  Schnorr  von  Carols/eld  (13,  19-21).  —  The  Second  Cok- 
RiDos  contains  cartoons  by  M.  von  Schtoind  (5-10),  water-colours,  etc.  — 
Cabinet  8,  unimportant.  —  Cabinet  9.  855.  J.  A.  Koch,  Landscape  with  the 
rape  of  Hylas  (sepia;  figures  by  Carttent)\  691,  692.  F.  Boucher,  Bed  crayon 
studies  for  the  paintings  in  Cab.3.;  967.^.Zar»^,  Landscape;  694  A.8chrSdter, 
The  seasons;  S2i.  A.  Feuerbcuih,  Concert  (water  colour  sketch);  857.  Schwind, 
Sketches  for  his  fresco  in  the  Wartburg. 

Third  Corridob.  722-747.  /.  W.  Schirmer,  Scenes  from  the  book  of 
Genesis  (charcoal) ;  also  cartoons  by  W.  Kaulhach,  Schnorr  von  Caroltfeld,  Veit, 
Schtpind,  and  Overbeek. 

The  Cabinet  of  Enobavinos  (open.  Thurs.,  10-12)  contains  Hant  Bal- 
dung  Grien't  sketch-book,  etc. 

The  fine  new  building  at  the  beginning  of  the  Wald-Str.  (PI.  D,  2), 
to  the  S.  of  the  Kunsthalle,  is  occupied  by  the  Oarlsrohe  Konstverein 
(Art  Union)  and  contains  a  collection  of  modern  pictures  and  other 
works  of  art,  chiefly  by  artists  of  Carlsruhe  (open  daily,  11-1,  and 
on  Sun.,  Wed.,  &  Sat.  2-4;  30  pf.). 

Near  the  Kunsthalle,  in  the  Linkenheimer-Str.,  is  one  of  the 
entrances  to  the  Botanic  Garden  (p.  366).  Beside  It  is  a  colossal 
bust  of  the  architect  Hubsch  (p.  356).  On  the  other  side  of  the 
street  rises  the  handsome  Court  of  Justice  (PI.  16 ;  0,  2),  built  by 
Kircher.  Opposite  Is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Prince  William  of  Baden 
(1829-97),  by  Volz. 

Farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Bismabck - Stbasse ,  which 
diverges  to  the  left,  are  the  Headquarters  of  the  XIV.  Corps  d^Armie 
(PI.  42;  C,  1),  built  by  Devin.  —  Two  buildings  at  the  W.  end 
of  the  street  contain  the  School  of  Art  (PI.  B,  2 ;  see  p.  355). 
In  the  Platz  in  front  of  it,  a  statue  of  the  poet  Victor  von  Scheffel 
(see  p.  361),  by  Volz,  was  erected  In  1892.  —  The  adjoining  streets 
contain  numerous  handsome  villas.  In  the  Moltke-Strasse  are  the 
Building  School  (PI.  1 ;  C,  1),  the  Industnal  School  (PI.  B,  1),  with 
a  museum  (open  Sun.  11-1,  Tues.,  "Wed.,  Thurs.,  &  Frid.  10-1 
and  2-4),  the  Cadet  School  (PI.  A,  1),  and  the  Grenadier  Barracks. 

The  Riefstahl-Strasse  and  the  Westend-Strasse  lead  to  the  S. 
from  the  Moltke-Strasse,  passing  Christ  Church  (Prot.)  and  a  Afon- 


360  Route  45.  OARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

ument  to  Wilhelm  Lubke  (1826-93),  the  historian  of  art,  to  the 
square  in  front  of  the  Miihlburger  Thor,  which  is  embellished  with 
a  bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  Emp.  William  /.,  by  Ad.Heer  (1896). 
—  Near  the  Thor  are  the  Old -Catholic  Church  of  the  Resurrection 
(PI.  A,  B,  2),  in  the  early-Gothic  style,  by  SchSfer,  the  handsome 
office  of  the  Carlsruhe  Life  Insurance  Co.^  and  the  Supreme  Court 
(P1.B,2). 

The  Kaisbr-Steassb  (P1.B-F,2),  a  street  IV2M.  long,  flanked 
with  handsome  modern  houses  and  attractive  shops,  runs  from  this 
point  through  the  centre  of  the  town  from  E.  to  W.  (tramway, 
p.  354).  In  its  W.  half,  to  the  right,  is  the  Pott  Office  (PI.  C,  2),  and 
on  the  left  is  the  Kaiser- Wilhelm- Passage. 

The  Douglas-Strasse,  passing  the  post-office,  leads  to  the  N.  to 
the  Palais  Prinz  Carly  at  the  corner  of  the  Stephanien-Strasse.  The 
Palais  Prinz  Max,  another  bandsome  Renaissance  building,  rises  a 
few  yards  to  the  E. ,  at  the  comer  of  the  Altademie-Strasse  and 
Oarl-Strasse. 

The  Erbprinzen-Strasse,  skirting  the  E.  side  of  the  post-office, 
leads  to  the  Fbibdrichs-Platz  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  which  is  embellished 
with  gardens,  fountains,  and  a  marble  group  of  Orestes  and  Pylades 
by  Steinhduser.  On  the  N.W.  side  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Church 
(PI.  18 ;  D,  2),  built  by  Weinbrenner  in  the  style  of  the  Pantheon, 
and  opposite,  in  the  Herren-Str.,  is  ih.Q  Reichshank  (PI.  33;  D,  3). 
On  the  N.  is  a  row  of  arcades  and  shops ;  and  on  the  E.  side  are  the 
Central  Offices  of  the  Baden  Railways  (PI.  9 ;  D,  3). 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  square  is  the  imposing  building  of  the 
United  Grand-Dncal  Collections  {Vereinigte  Sammtungen;  PI.  41, 
D  3),  with  its  conspicuous  central  portion  somewhat  resembling  a 
triumphal  arch,  erected  by  Berckmuller  in  1865-71.  The  four  marble 
figures  are  by  Steinhduser,  The  staircase  is  adorned  with  frescoes 
by  Keller  and  Oleichauf,  Adm.  free  on  Sun.  and  Wed.,  11-1  and 
2-4  (antiquities  also  on  Frid.) ;  at  other  times  for  a  fee  (50  pf.). 

Gbound  Floor.  To  the  right  of  the  staircase  is  a  Renaissance  foantaia 
from  Sulsburg  (ca.  1600).  Straight  in  front  are  the  larger  stone  monuments 
and  the  stairs  leading  np  to  the  library  (see  below).  —  In  the  E.  wing  (left) 
are  the  Mineralogical^  Geological^  and  Zoological  Collections.  —  In  the  W. 
wing  (right)  are  the  Antiquarian  and  Ethnological  CoUectiom.  Boom  I. 
Egyptian  Antiquities.  *Greek  Vases  and  Terracottas  (good  catalogue).  — 
Boom  II.  To  the  ri^ht  and  left  of  the  entrance,  Mithras  Beliefs.  Bronzes, 
including  Greek  and  Etruscan  ^Weapons,  statuettes,  mirror  -  cases,  etc. 
Marble  Sculptures  found  in  Italy.  —  Boom  III.  Prehistoric,  Boman,  and 
Alemannian  Antiquities  found  in  Baden.  In  the  second  section,  the  Ethno- 
logical Collection  (5000  objects).  —  Boom  IV.  Collection  of  Weapons,  chiefly 
Turkish  spoils  of  war  captured  by  Margrave  Lewis  William  (p.  358).  — 
Boom  V  fa  flight  higher).  Ifodern  weapons.  Collection  0/ Baden  Costumes.  — 
Boom  VI.  Art- Industrial  Collection :  stove-tiles,  cabinets,  musical  instruments, 
church-utensils,  carvings,  and  vestments,  glass  paintings,  etc.;  hlso  coins 
and  medals.  —  We  return  to  the  vestibule,  and  thence  enter  a  hall  con- 
taining Roman  and  Mediaeval  Stone  Monuments  found  in  Baden. 

The  Library  contains  about  169,000  volumes  and  a  handsome  reading- 
room  (open  Sun.  11-1,  week-days  1()-1  &  6^,  and  the  Cabinet  of  Coins. 

Behind  the  building  just  described  lies  the  Erbprinzen-Oartenj 

jOOgle 


to  Baden.  RASTATT.  45,  Route.   361 

with  a  fine  group  of  nymphs  by  Weltring  (1891).  The  Palace  of 
the  Crown  Prince  (PL  37;  D,  3),  in  the  Krieg-Str.,  was  erected  in 
the  late-Renaissance  style  by  Durm  in  1891-96.  The  fagades,  in 
light  greyish-green  sandstone,  are  freely  adorned  with  sculpture. 

In  the  E.  half  of  the  Kaisbr- Stbassb  (p.  360),  at  the  comer  of 
the  Kronen -Str.,  rises  the  Synagogue  (PI.  38;  E,  2),  built  by 
Durm  in  the  Oriental  style  with  Renaissance  details.  Farther  to 
the  E.  is  the  Polytechnic  School  (PI.  E,  2),  erected  by  Hiibsch 
in  1836  and  enlarged  in  1863.  This  institution  is  the  oldest  of  the 
kind  in  Germany  (founded  1825).  Adjoining  the  main  building 
are  the  Aula,  added  by  Durm  in  1896  and  adorned  in  the  interior 
by  Schonleber,  Heer,  and  others,  and  the  Electric,  Physical,  and 
Botanical  Institutes.  —  At  the  end  of  the  Eaiser-Strasse  is  the  new 
Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St.  Bernhard,  by  Meckel. 

About  1/2  H.  from  the  Durlacher  Thor  (tramway)  is  the  Schloss 
Ootteaaue  (PI.  G,  3),  erected  by  Margravea  Charles  II.  and  Ernest  Frederick 
in  1583-99  on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine  abbey  dating  from  1103.  The  in- 
terior has  been  fitted  up  as  an  artillery-barrack.  A  large  Military  Prison 
has  been  erected  in  the  vicinity.  —  To  theK.E.,  the  Kaiser-Wilhelm-Str. 
leads  from  the  Durlacher  Thor  to  (V4  M.)  the  handsome  New  Cemetery, 
in  which  repose  the  statesman  Karl  Mathy  (d.  186S)  and  the  poet  /.  Victor 
von  8cheffel^  a  native  of  Carlsruhe  (1826-86). 

Among  pleasant  resorts  for  walking  are  the  Hardtwaid  (PI.  A,  B,  C,  1); 
the  Wild-Park,  tickets  for  which  are  obtained  at  the  Hofzahlamt,  Schloss- 
Platz  1  (50  pf.)i  and  the  "Stadi- Garten  (PI.  D,  4,  5^  adm.  20  c.),  beginning 
beyond  the  Vierordtsbad  (p.  355),  with  the  Fest-Halle  (^Restaurant),  several 
hot-houses,  the  Thiergarten,  and  the  Lauterherg  (*View). 

From  Carlsrdhk  to  Landau,  25  M.,  railway  in  IV2  hr.  (fares  4  Ji  10, 
2  U^  80,  IJir  80  pf.).  —  IV4  M.  MahXburgerthor.—^y^  M.  Miihlbnrjr,  with  the 
new  River  Harbour  of  Carlsruhe  (189^-1901;  48  acres  in  area),  connected 
with  the  Rhine  by  a  canal  2000  yds.  in  length.  —  4V2  M.  Knielingenf  6V1  ^- 
Kaxau  (RheiniscJier  Hof;  baths,  see  p.  355),  where  the  Rhine  is  crossed  by 
a  bridge-of  boats ;  then  MaximUiamau;  8  M.  Wdrth  (p.  298);  12  M.  Langen- 
kandel;  17  M  Winden^  where  the  line  joins  the  Palatinate  railway.  — 
25  U.  Landau,  see  p.  290. 

On  leaving  Carlsruhe,  the  train  crosses  a  viaduct  spanning  the 
Alb,  the  strategic  railway  to  Rastatt,  and  a  goods  railway.  To  the 
right  are  Beiertheim  and  the  two  towers  of  the  church  of  Bulach. 

39  M.  Ettlingen  (Sonne,  Hirsch,  both  very  fair,-  Krone),  with 
8000inhab.,  possesses  large  shirting,  velvet,  and  paper  manufactories 
(paper  has  been  made  here  since  1482).  A  pretty  path  leads  hence 
via  the  Redoute  (1065  ft.l  to  Schluttenbach  (1120  ft.)  and  thence  to  the 
platform  on  the  Steinig (1320 ft.;  l^^hr.).  Ettlingen  is  also  a  station 
on  the  Albthal  railway  (p.  388)  and  on  the  light  railway  from 
Carlsruhe  to  Pforzheim  (p.  354). 

41  M.  Bmchhausen.  —  From  (44  M.)  Malsch  a  picturesque  road 
leads  to  (9  M.)  Herrenalb  (p.  383),  via  Freiolsheim,  Moosbrunn,  and 
Bembach.  —  46V2M.  Muggensturm, 

49V2M.  Bastatt(406ft. ;  Railway  Hotel,  at  the  station;  Schwert; 
Kreuz,  in  the  market-place),  a  town  with  14,000  inhab.,  burned 
by  the  French  in  1689,  but  soon  afterwards  rebuilt  by  the  celebrated 


362  Route  46.  BADEN.  PraeHcdl 


Imperial  general  Margrave  Lewis  of  Baden  (d.  1707),  was  the  res! 
dence  of  the  Margraves  till  the  line  became  extinct  in  1771.   The 
large  Palace  is  conspicuous  for  its  high  tower,  crowned  by  a  gilt 
statue  of  Jupiter. 

In  one  of  the  apartmenta  the  peace  between  France  and  Austria,  which 
terminated  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  was  signed  on  6th  May,  1714, 
by  Prince  Eagene  of  Savoy  and  Marshal  Villars.  A  congress  held  here 
in  1797-99  between  Austria  and  Germany  on  the  one  side  and  France  on 
the  other  led  to  no  result,  and  at  its  dose  Robeiiot  and  Bonnier,  two  of 
the  French  delegates,  were  barbarously  murdered  by  Austrian  hnsears  in 
an  adjacent  wood,  but  at  whose  instigation  it  was  never  discovered.  — 
The  Baden  revolution  began  at  Bastatt  in  1849  with  a  mutiny  of  the  sol- 
diery, and  it  was  also  terminated  here  by  the  surrender  of  the  fortress 
to  the  Prussians  after  a  siege  of  three  weeks. 

From  Bastatt  to  Gerrubach  and  WHsaibach,  see  pp.  391,  392  ^  strategic 
line  to  Carhruhe  and  AUace^  see  p.  361. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Afury,  and  reaches  — 

55  M.  Ooi  (410  ft. ;  Stem;  Engel),  whence  a  branch-line  (change 

carriages)  ascends  the  Oosthal,  passing  Badenscheuem^  to  (57^2  M.) 

Baden. 

46.  Baden  and  Environs. 

Arrival.  The  Bailwat  Station  (500  ft. ;  PI.  A,  1),  built  in  1894-95, 
is  on  the  N. W.  side  of  the  town.  Poi-ter  from  the  train  to  a  cab,  5  pf.  for 
each  article  of  luggage ;  for  carrying  a  trunk  into  the  town  80  pf.,  more 
than  one  20  pf.  each,  light  articles  10  pf.  each ;  after  11  p.m.  35,  SO,  20  pf.  — 
Cab  CPackdrosehke*):  »/4  hr.  for  1-2  pers.  70  pf.,  for  34  pers.  1  •#  30  pf.  5  for 
V«  hr.  1  ur  20  or  1  ur  60  pf.  (to  Lichtenthal  1  UT  40  or  1  UT  70  pf.  -,  after 
9p.m.lur70,  2ur90pf.);  from  9  to  12  p.m.,  lur20,  lUTSO,  lUTSO.  and 
1  ur  80  pf. ;  from  midnight  to  5  a.m..  1  UT  40, 1  Ul  70, 1 U^  70,  and  2  UT  20  pf . ; 
each  box  20  pf.  —  Omnibus  to  Licntenthal,  see  p.  364. 

Hotels  (generally  good).  Pension-rates  are  granted  at  all,  except  the 
Hdtel  Stephanie,  for  a  stay  of  some  time.  The  larger  houses  are  usually 
closed  from  Kov.  until  the  beginning  of  March.  —  ^Hotbi,  Stephamix  (PI.  bj 
C,  4),  two  houses  in  an  open  situation  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oos,  sur- 
rounded with  gardens;  *HdTXL  db  l'Eubopb  (PI.  f;  B,  3),  Kaiser- Allee  2, 
opposite  the  Trinkhalle,  B.  from  4,  B.  IVs,  !>•  4Vt,  pens.  11-14  Jt;  Hotxi 
Mbssmxr  (PI.  a;  B,  3),  Werder-Str.,  near  the  Conversatlonshaus,  with  three 
ddpendances  and  a  large  garden,  B.  4-7,  B.  IV2,  B.  4Vs,  pens.  11  Ji ;  *HdTBL 
d'Amqlstsbbb  (PI.  e-,  C,  3),  Sophien-Str.  2,  by  the  Promenaden-Brucke,  with 
garden,  open  in  winter  also,  B.  from  3,  B.  1-4,  D.  4,  pens.  8-13  Ulf ;  *BxLLjByus 
(PI.  d;  G,  5),  in  an  open  situation  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oos,  with  garden, 
B.  3-7,  B.  li/s,  D.  4,  board  7  jH;  'Vimbbva  (PI.  c-,  C,  4),  simUarly  situated, 
B.  4-7,  B.  IVj,  D.  4,  pens,  from  9  j$;  *Codb  db  Badb  (PI.  nj  B,  2),  Lange- 
Str.  47,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town,  with  baths  and  garden,  open  in  winter 
also,  B.  3-8,  B.  IV2,  D.  4,  pens.  9-12  j$ ,  patronized  by  the  English :  *H6tel 
DB  BussiB  (PI.  k;  B,  2),  Kaiser- All^e  4,  with  garden,  B.  4-10,  B.  lys,  D.  4, 
pens,  from  10  Jti  *H6tel  db  HoLLAin>B  (PI.  h;  C,  3),  Sophien-Str.  14,  with 
the  d^pendance  Pention  Beaut^Jour  (PI.  i  s  C,  3),  B.  from  8,  B.  1V«,  pens, 
from  %Jf;  *Victoeia  (PL  gi  C,  3),  Leopolds-Platz,  comfortable,  but  not 
showy,  patronized  bv  the  English  and  Americans,  B.  S-SVs)  B.  IVs,  D. 4, 
pens.  8-12  Jf.  —  •Hotbl  db  Francs  (PI.  1 ;  B,  2),  Luisen-Str.  32,  with  garden, 
open  in  winter  also,  B.  2V«-5,  B.  IV4,  D.  8V»,  pens,  from  7  •#.  —  •Pabk 
HoTBL,  Fremersberg  -  Str.  2,  overlooking  the  Lich  ten  thaler  AlHe,  B.  3-8, 
B.  lV4-lVs>  D.  8Vt.  pens,  from  9  J(;  «ZIhbingbr  Hof  (PI.  m^  B,2),  Lange- 
Str.  46,  with  baths  and  large  garden,  B.  21/2^,  B.  IV4,  D.  3Vs,  pens.  1-12  Jf. 
All  the  above  are  of  the  first  class,  with  lifts,  electric  light,  and  other 

modern  conveniences.  C^r^r^n]o 

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^0U8,  BADEN.  46.  Route,   363 

The  following  hoases  are  somewhat  less  expensive:  ^H^tbl  Hiksoh 
(PI.  t;  B.  C,2),  Hirsch-Str.  1,  with  baths  and  lift,  open  in  winter  also, 
B.  2»/r4V«»  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  Ti/j-lO  •#;  Gsbmamia  (PI.  y ;  C,  4),  Ludwig-WU- 
helm-Platz.  —  •Tebminus  (PI.  o:  A,  1),  E.  2-4.  B.  1,  D.  2V»,  pens.  6-9  UT; 
•ViLLE  DB  Bade  (PI.  p;  A,  1),  B.  2-4  L.  V4,  B.  1,  D.  8,  pens.  7-SJ(;  'Bat- 
KX8OHEB  Hor  (PI.  q*,  A,  1),  Lange-Str.  9U,  with  restaurant,  gurden,  and 
covered  terrace;  these  three -are  near  the  station  and  convenient  fur  pass- 
ing travellers.  ^DarmstIotkb  Hor  (PI.  r ;  G,  3),  Oemsbacher-Str.  6,  with 
baths,  E.  2»/i-4ur,  L.  30 pf.,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  7-9  Jf;  Pbtbrsbubgbb  Hof 
(PI. Si  0,3),  Gernsbacher-Str.  12,  with  restaurant-,  Dkei  KOniob  (Pl.  u;  C,3j, 
Lange-Str.  11,  with  restaurant  and  covered  terrace ^  *Dbdtsoubr  Hof 
(PI.  v;  B,2),  Lange-Str.  60,  with  restaurant,  B.  l«/4-3»/«,  B.  1,  D.  2»/s,  pens. 
byi-V/tJt;  *Stadt  Paris  (PI.  «:  C,  3),  Sophien-Str.,  near  the  Friedrichsbad, 
with  lift,  B.  2»/«-3»/«,  B.  1,  D.  3,  pens.  6-8  Jt;  *8tadt  Strassbdkg  (PI.  W5 
G,  3),  Sophien-Str.  22,  with  restaurant  and  covered  terrace.  B.  2y4'^i  B.  1, 
D.  3,  pens.  6^Ulf;  ^Bomerbad,  Bader-Str.  1,  B.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V«i  pens- 
6-S  Jf;  ^Stahlbad,  Licbtenthaler-Str.  27,  B.  2-4,  B.  V4,  pens,  from  6V2  Jf. 

Among  the  less  pretentious  hotels  may  be  mentioned :  Muller,  Lange- 
Str.  31,  B.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V4i  pens.  6-8 •#,  well  spoken  of;  Goldener  Stern 
(PI.  A-,  B,  3),  Lange-Str.  23,  commercial,  B.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V«,  pens.  5-71/2  U^; 
GoLDENEs  EiNHURN,  Laugc-Str.  7,  with  beer  and  wine  restaurant;  Bock 
(PI.  B;  B,  2),  Lange-Str.  45;  Baldreit,  Kiifer^tr.  5,  near  the  market-place, 
with  baths ;  Stadt  Gablsrche  ,  corner  of  Baldreit-Str.  and  Biitten-Str. ; 
B08E,  GrGnbb  Baum,  both  in  the  Markt-Platz;  Stadt  Kanot,  Sophien- 
Str.  22;  Salmbn,  LOwb,  Latbrmb,  Gbist,  all  in  the  Gemsbacher  -  Str. ; 
BAHKHOFS-IldTBL,  With  garden. 

Outside  the  town :  Fbibsbnwald,  Werder-Str.  20,  oii  the  Beutig,  Gbethbl 
(a  sanatorium),  and  'Eaisbbin  Elisabbth  (pens.  6^  UJOi  seep.  w9;  Hotel 
Eorbmattpelsbn.  HdTEL  Fbdh,  see  p.  373;  *Goehac8  Schirmhof,  well- 
managed,  B.  2'/2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2Vi,  pens,  from  QJt.—  PxNBioir  Waldbnbck, 
Fremersberg-Str.  40,  B.  2-5,  D.  2V2,  pens.  6-10  .#.  —  Gumzbnbach-Hof, 
B.  21/2-4,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  6-8  Jf,  see  p.  369.  —  Zu&  MoRQBMRdTHE  and 
WaldschlSsschbn,  see  p.  372.  —  Inns  at  Lichtenthal,  see  p.  869. 

Pensions.  ViUa  Louite  and  LouUenMhiy  Werder-Str.  4,  6,  &  12  (B.  31/2* 
IOV2.  pens.  9-16  UV);  Chandon,  Werder-Str.  16;  AUiehaus,  Lichtenthaler- 
Str.  6;  ffohenslein,  Friesenberg-Str.  4  (5-9  Jf)\  Kcdmdery  Kronprinzen-Str.  2 
(B.  21/2-11 V2,  pens.  71/2-1772  Jt)\  BlUcher,  Gernsbacher-Str.  100  (5-8  Jt); 
Mangin,  Luisen-Str.  20  (from  6  Jf)i  Volt^  Schloss-Str.  lla  (from  41/2  U^); 
Nagel^  Luisen-Str.  22  (B.  21/2-10.  board  5  UT);  Schneider,  Schiller  -  Str.  11; 
JRoM,  Sophien-Str.  38  (6-8Ul^)v  ^^"  Binnarck^  Bismarck-Str.  14.  —  Sana- 
torium Quisisana  (Dr.  BaumgUrtner),  Bismarck-Str.  17  (R.  &  A.  2-12,  board 
QJf)'^  Dr.  Emmerich^  Cur-An»talt,  Quettig-Str.,  for  nervous  patients ;  Sana- 
torium of  Drs.  Fr*y  and  Gilbert,  Lange-Str..  for  heart  and  nervous  patients ; 
Sanatorium  Annaberff.  Gernsbacher-Str.  lOo;  Dr.  SbertU  Sanatorium,  Bern- 
hard-Str.  32,  pens.  8-15  UV;  Ludwiff-WithehM-SHft  (pens.  4-6Ul0t  see  p.  367. 

Private  Apartments  may  be  obtained  from  20  UV  a  week,  the  farther 
from  the  Gursaal,  the  cheaper  (e.g.  at  one  of  the  numerous  villas  near 
the  railway-station,  or  at  the  village  of  Lichtenthal,  IV2  M.  distant).  The 
lodgings  in  the  Sophien-Strasse,  in  the  picturesque  upper  Schloss-Strasse, 
and  in  the  new  quarter  near  the  Protestant  church,  are  pleasant  and  com- 
fortable, but  somewhat  expensive.  Breakfast  in  the  lodging-houses  costs 
70-80  pf. ;  dinner  is  taken  at  a  hotel  or  restaurant  (lV2-4UiO' 

Bestaorants.  In  addition  to  the  above-mentioned  hotels :  *Convertationi- 
fiauty  of  the  first  class,  D.  41/2-7  Jf  (wine,  etc.,  cheaper  at  the  uncovered 
tables)  ;  *G(^4  Palais,  in  the  former  Palais  Hamilton  (PI.  C,  3;  p.  368),  with 
beautiful  garden,  also  of  the  first  class ;  "Mangin.  Luisen-Str.  20  (see  above).  — 
Beer.  Ooldenes  Kreuz,  Lichtenthaler-Str.  13,  popular,  D.  11/2-2  U^;  Zur  Post, 
Lichtenthaler-Str.  4 ;  Bafrischer  So/  (see  above) ;  Krokodil,  Huhlengasse  4, 
between  Nos.  25  and  27  in  the  Lange-Strasse,  D.  li/s-2  Jf;  Stadt  Strassburg 
(see  above);  Ritier,  Gernsbaeher-Str.  11,  with  garden,  D.2  Jf;  Luxhof,  Lange- 
Str.  38;  Bletter,  Lichtenthaler-Str.  35;  SimierU  Saalbau,  Lichtenthaler- 
Str.  44.  —  Dinner  (I1/3-2  Jf),  after  12  o^dock,  at  various  eating-houses  in 
the  Gernsbacher-Str.  and  the  streets  running  off  the  Lichtenthaler-Str. 


364  Route  46. 


BADEN. 


Practiedl 


Qa.Ua  and  Oonfeotionerft*  Shops.  ConvertaUoiuhaus,  see  p.  363 ;  "Rumpel- 
tnayer,  Augusta- Platz  (PI.  0,  3),  first-class,  with  garden;  *Vitta  Sorrento 
(PI.  C,  5,  6),  Lichtenthaler  All^e  14}  Panorama^  aiove  the  LichteDthaler 
All^e  (PI.  C,  6),  with  view;  Zabler,  Lichtenthaler-Str.  12,  with  garden; 
Schababerle,  Gernsbaeher-Str.  4.  —  There  are  also  several  good  caf^  and 
milk -gardens  in  the  environs,  such  as  the  Gwzenbaoher  Bo/  (p.  869}; 
Molkencmitaliy  Quettig-Str.  9;  Oretely  see  p.  369. 

Oabs  (^Packdroschken**  at  the  rail,  station,  see  p.  £ 
a.  Br  Time. 

For  V*  hour , 

For  V2  hour 

For  ^4  hour , 

For  1  hour 


1-2  pers. 

3-4 

pers. 

Jf 

Pf. 

ur 

pf. 



75 

1 

60 

1 

60 

2 

__ 

2 

25 

3 



3 

— 

4 

— 

Each  additional  V4  hour  50  pf.  or  75  pf.  outside  the  cab-radius,  which 
includes  the  whole  of  tbe  town  shown  in  our  plan,  with  the  exception  of 
the  hills  to  the  S.W.  of  the  <3treek  Chapel  and  Schloss  Krupp  ancl  to  the 
K.E.  Cabs  discharged  beyond  the  radios  are  entitled  to  half-fare  for  the 
return.  —  To  Lichtenthal  U/2  0r2Uif;  to  the  pensions  Waldeneck,  Schirm- 
hof,  Eorbmattfelsen,  or  Eaiserin  Elisabeth,  272  or  31/2  Jt- 

In  summer  after  9  p.m.,  and  in  winter  after  8  p.m. :  per  drive  (V4  hr.), 
1-4  pers.  iJf  50  pf.,  each  additional  V4  hr.  1  Jf.    Each  large  box  40  pf. 

b.  Dkives  at  Fixed  Chabgbs  (1-4  .persons). 
Under  Glass  I  carriages  may  be  kept  for  2  hrs. ;  under  CI.  n,  3  hrs. ; 


under  CI.  Ill,  6  hrs. ;  under  Cl.  IV,  10  hrs. ;  and  under  Cl.  V,  14  hrs. 
To  the  Fish  Breeding  Estab.  4  jf.  there  and  back     .     . 

I.  {  To  the  Seelach  4  Jl,  there  and  back 

To  the  Gerolsauer  MiUile  3  Jf,  there  and  back  .... 

To  the  Gerolsau  Waterfall  5  Jf ,  there  and  back    .    .     . 

Jagdhaus  5  Jt^  returning  viH  the  Fremersberger  Hof,  or 

vice  rersSk 


n.  < 


m. 


IV. 


V. 


To  the  Alte  Schloss  4^2  Jf,  there  and  back 

By  the  Yburg  road,   the  Seelighofe,   and  the  *Verbin- 


50 


dungs-Weg'  to  Lichtenthal,  and  back  to  Baden  . 
To  the  Alte  Schloss  and  back  vi&  Ebersteinburg ,   or 

vice  versS 

To  Ebersteinburg  and  back  . 

To  the  Fish  Breeding  Estab.  and  Schloss  Eberstein  and  back 

The  same,  returning  vi&  Gernsbach 

To  the  Fish  Breeding  hstab.  and  Gernsbach  and  back 

To  the  Fremersberg-Thurm  and  back 

To  the  Fremersberg  -  Thurm  viH  the  Katzenstein,   and 

back  vill  the  Jagdhaus  .... 
To  the  Favorite  and  back  vi&  Oos 
,  To  the  Yburg  and  back    .... 
'  Vi&  Gerolsau  to  the  Plattig  (19  Jf),  Sand  (20  UT),  and  the 

Hundseck,  and  back 

Vii  Gerolsau  to    the  Biihler-Thal  and  the   Gertelbach- 

Schlucht,  and  back  viH  Buhl  and  Steinbadi,  or  vice  versa 

To  the  Alte  Schloss.  Ebersteinburg,  Teufelskanzel,  and 

I      by   the   new   road   below   the   Mercurius- Thurm   to 

V     Mtillenbild  and  back,  or  vice  versa 

{The  same,  including  Gernsbach  or  Schloss  Eberstein    . 
The  same,  including  Gernsbach  and  Schloss  Eberstein  . 
Vi&  Gerolsau   to  the  Biihler-Thal  and  the  Gertelbach- 
Schlucht,  and  back  viSk  Sand  and  Plattig 

Omnibuses.  1.  Leopolde-Platz  (PI.  C,  3)  vi&  Lanse-Str.  and  the  station 
to  BadeMcheuern  (p.  862),  11  times  daUy  (20  pf.).  —  2.  Curhaxu  vi&  Sophien- 
Str.  and  Leopold-Str.  to  the  Alte  Sehlott  (p.  371),  twi  e  daily  1IV2,  there  and 
back  2  UiO.  —  3.  Curhetus  to  UcTUenihal  g.  869),  7  times  daily  (25  pf.);  some 
of  the  omnibuses  start  from  the  railway-station  (40  pf.).  —  4.  durJums  vift 
Lichtenthal  to  Seelach  (p.  370),  thrice  daUy,  in  summer  4  times  (75  pf.,  back 


pf. 


50 


Note9.  BADEN,  46.  Boutt,   365 

50  pf.).  —  5.  Curhaui  vi&  Lichtenthal  to  the  FUh  Breeding  EetablUhment 
(p.  870),  tvpice  daily  (1  Jt,  retam-fare  IV2  M)  \  the  morning  omnibus  starts 
fi-om  the  railwaT-station.  —  6.  Ourhaut  vi&  the  Fish  Breeding  Estab.  to 
Schloss  Eberetein  (p.  61%  once  daily,  2  and  3  U>.  —  7.  Curhcnte  vi&  Lichten- 
thal  to  the  QeroUau  Waterfall  (p.  370),  twice  daily  (1  Jf).  -  8.  Curhaiu  via 
the  Plattig  and  Sand  to  the  Bvndseck  (p.  390).  once  daily  (8  or  5  Jf).  — 
Theater-PlaU  vi&  the  Yburg  road  to  Yburg  (p.  3745  returning  viiH  the  Korb- 
mattfelsen  and  Werder-Str.),  twice  diily  (2  or  2V2  Jf)-  —  10.  CwJwuu  via 
the  V7erder-Str.  and  the  Eorbmattfelsen  to  the  Jagdhavs  (p.  374;  returning 
rik  the  Jagdhanser-Allde),  twice  daily  (I  J(  SO  &  2  Jf).  —  Intermediate 
fares  on  all  these  lines.  The  terminus  is  near  the  main  entrance  to  the 
Conservationshaus,  where  the  time-table  is  posted  up. 

Visitora'  Tax.  Tickets  for  admission  to  the  Conversationshans  and 
grounds  (sold  at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds):  for  one  day,  1  pers.  1  Jf 
(morning-concert  only,  free) 5  for  a  fortnight  10  Jf;  for  one  month,  1  pers. 
QOJfy  2  pers.  SO  Ulf,  each  additional  person  6  Jt  more.  Balls  every  Sunday 
during  the  season.  Good  Concerts  frequently.  —  Afusic  in  front  of,  or  in 
the  Conversationshans,  7-8  a.m.,  3-4  and  8-10  p.m. 

Batha.  *Friedricht-Bad^  open  all  the  year  round  7  a.m.  to  6  p.m.,  and 
*Augusia'Badj  open  in  summer  only,  see  n.  366.  Biver  Baths  and  Swimming 
Baths  (PL  C,  5).  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oos  (separate  entrances  for  ladies 
and  gentlemen). 

Batha  Office  (Qrosshertogliehe  Kommission  der  Badeanstalten),  in  the 
Grossherzogliche  Amtshaus  (PI.  G,  D,  2).  —  Municipal  Batha  Committee 
(Btddtische  Curcomiti)^  in  the  Conversationshaus,  to  the  left. 

Theatre.  Performances  on  Wednesdays  (actors  from  the  Carlsruhe 
theatre);  during  the  season  thrice  weekly. 

B«ce8  at  Iffezheim  (near  Oos,  p.  862).  at  the  end  of  August,  the  begin- 
ning of  September,  and  the  beginning  of  October. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  C,  3),  Leopolds-Platz  12. 

English  Ghurch  (All  Saints'* )y  Berthold-Str.  5,  close  to  the  Grand-Hotel 
Bellevue-,  Sun.  services  at  8.30  a.m.,  11  a.m.,  and  7  p.m.  Chaplain,  Rer. 
T.  Archibald  S.   White^  Jf.  A,y  Lange-Str.  33. 

Baden  has  the  reputation  of  being  an  expensive  watering-place,  and 
probably  is  so  to  those  who  live  at  the  first-class  hotels,  attend  all  the 
numerous  concerts,  and  liberally  patronise  the  shops  and  bazaars ;  but  many 
of  the  advantages  of  the  place  may  be  enjoyed  without  very  serious  inroad 
on  the  finances  by  visitors  who  are  content  to  put  up  at  the  less  pretending 
hotels.  A  month  may  be  very  comfortably  spent  at  Baden  for  iOl.  or  12/.  — - 
Baihs  cost  40  pf.  to  2  Ul^  60  pf.  and  upwards.  The  Thermal  Water  may  be 
drunk  at  the  Trinkhalle  and  Friedrichs-Bad  free  of  charge;  other  kinds  of 
mineral  water  are  supplied  at  fixed  rates.  Whey  or  goats'*  milk,  20  pf.  per 
glass.  —  The  Friedrichs-Bad  and  the  Trinkhalle  are  open  throughout  the  year. 
The  Season  proper  lasts  from  April  to  October  and  is  at  its  height  from 
June  to  August,  while  the  town  is  crowded  also  at  the  time  of  the  races 
(see  above).    The  atmosphere  is  mild  and  healthy,  though  somewhat  damp. 

Baden  (600  ft.),  or  Baden-Baden  (to  distinguish  it  from  the 
Baden  near  Vienna  and  that  in  Switzerland),  lies  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Black  Forest,  among  picturesque,  well-wooded  hills,  in  the 
delightful  valley  of  the  Ooshach  or  Oelbac\  and  vies  with  Heidel- 
berg and  Freihurg  in  the  heauty  of  its  situation.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  watering-places  in  Europe,  and  is  rivalled  in  Ger- 
many by  Wiesbaden  only.  The  population  is  16,700  (chiefly  Roman 
Catholics)  and  the  number  of  visitors  is  about  60,000  annually. 

The  efficacy  of  the  waters  was  known  to  the  Bomans,  who  called  it 
Civiias  Aurelia  Aquensis.  For  six  centuries  Baden  was  the  seat  of  the  Mar- 
graves of  Baden ,  of  whom  Hermann  II.  (d.  1130)  first  resided  in  the  old 
castle.  The  new  castle,  above  the  town,  was  erected  by  the  Margrave 
Christopher  (1475-1627),  but  both  town  and  castles  suffered  so  much  during 
the  Thirty  Years'  War  and  the  war  of  the  Palatinate  (1689),  that  the  Mar« 


366  Route  46,  BADEN.  Friedrich$^Bad, 

graves  transferred  their  residence  to  Rastatt  in  1706.  The  modem  reputa- 
tion of  Baden  as  a  sanatorium  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  iHth  century. 
The  first  ^Gonversationshaus'  was  opened  in  1803,  and  the  gaming-table, 
which  was  immediately  set  up,  became  a  favourite  resort  of  European 
wealth  and  fashion.  The  suppression  of  public  gambling  in  1S73,  however, 
has  given  Baden  more  of  the  character  of  a  health-resort. 

The  Old  Town,  with  its  narrow  streets,  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Oosbach,  and  extends  up  the  slope  of  a  spur  of  the 
Battert,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  by  the  grand-ducal  chateau. 
Farther  to  the  S.  rises  the  Gothic  — 

Ffarrkirche  or  Stiftskirohe  (590  ft. ;  PI.  G,  2 ;  always  open  in 
the  morning),  erected  in  the  7th  cent.,  raised  to  the  dignity  of  an 
abbey-church  in  1453,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1689,  repaired  in  1753, 
and  restored  in  the  original  style  in  1866.  The  choir  contains 
interesting  Monuments  of  the  Margraves  of  Baden,  from  Bernhard  I. 
(d.  1431)  downwards,  notably  those  of  Bishop  Frederick  of  Utrecht 
fd.  1517),  brother  of  Christopher  I.  (bronze  monument  in  a  Gothic 
niche,  to  the  left),  and  of  Margrave  Lewis  "William  (colossal  tomb, 
on  the  right).  The  lower  part  of  the  W.  tower  is  Romanesque.  — 
Opposite  the  portal  lies  the  Rathhaiu  (PI.  0,  3),  formerly  the  Jesuits' 
College  and  then  the  Conversationshaus  (1809-24),  with  a  collection 
of  antiquities  on  the  groundfloor  (open  on  Sun.  &  Thurs.,  11-12.30). 
There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  court. 

Adjacent  to  the  church,  on  the  S.£.  slope  of  the  Schlossberg,  are 
the  Hot  Springs,  the  chief  of  which  have  been  united  in  two  chan- 
nels, the  Hauptstollen  and  the  Kirchenstollen,  They  yield  upwards 
of  110,000  gallons  per  day,  and  vary  from  113®  to  158*»  Fahr.  in  tem- 
perature. The  efficacy  of  the  water  is  chiefly  due  to  its  high  natural 
temperature ,  the  solid  ingredients ,  chiefly  chloride  of  sodium, 
amounting  only  to  three  per  cent.  The  latest  analysis  has  detected 
slight  traces  of  arsenic.  The  chief  bath-houses  arc  the  Friedrichs- 
Bad  and  the  Kaiserin-Augusta-Bad. 

The  "Triedrichs-Bad  (PI.  C,  2)  is  an  imposing  Renaissance  edifice 
by  Demfeld  (1869-77),  rising  in  terraces  from  the  Stein-Strasse, 
close  to  the  springs.  The  exterior  is  executed  in  red  and  white  sand- 
stone, and  embellished  with  statues,  busts,  and  medallions.  In  sum- 
mer it  is  reserved  for  gentlemen,  in  winter  it  is  used  by  ladies  also. 

The  first  floor  contains  hot  and  cold  plunge-baths  (6  a.m.  to  1  p.m.  1  Jf 
20  pf.,  1  p.m.  to  6  p.m.  80  pf.),  sitz-baths  (private  bath,  morn.  3,  aft. 
2Vs  •#;  general  bath,  1  UT  50  and  1  UT  20  pf.),  electric  baths  i^  Jf),  an 
inhaling  room  (60  pf.),  etc.  On  the  second  floor  is  the  division  set  apart 
for  curative  gymnastics  and  ^massage^  the  apparatus  for  which  was  pur- 
chased at  Stockholm  (15  tickets,  valid  for  1  month,  15  Jf).  On  this  floor 
also  are  baths  for  bathing  in  company,  vapour  and  douche  baths,  Turkish 
baths,  and  large  swimming-baths  with  cold  and  warm  water.  A  bath 
takes  from  IVz  to  2  hrs.  (charge,  morn.  21/2,  aft.  3  Jf).  On  the  third  floor 
are  the  Furstenbader,  or  baths  of  the  most  luxurious  description  (10  Jf)^ 
and  also  vapour  baths  (3  or  V/t  Jt)\  inhaling  room  (50  c);  and  massage 
(2-5  JO-  —  Admission  to  view  the  interior,  after  6  p.m.,  1  «#. 

On  the  E.  the  Fried  rich s-Bad  is  adjoined  by  the  *Kaisexin- 
Augusta-Badi  a  handsome  Italian  Renaissance  building,  erected  by 


NeueSchloss,  BADEN  46,  Route,  S61 

Durm  in  1891-92  and  adomecl  with  scalptures  by  Hor,  It  is  reserved 
for  ladies,  but  is  open  in  snmmer  only.  The  main  yestibnle  con- 
tains busts  of  the  Grand-Duke  and  Grand-Duchess  Frederick  and 
two  oil-paintings  representing  favourite  walks  of  the  Empress 
Augusta.  The  handsome  staircase  is  adorned  with  a  bust  of  the  Em- 
press by  Moest  and  a  frieze  by  Qleichauf,  The  general  equipments 
and  charges  resemble  those  of  the  Friedrichs-Bad. 

To  the  E.  are  the  Spital-Kirche^  used  by  the  Old  Catholics,  and 
the  Old  Cemetery  (PI.  D,  2),  now  transformed  into  a  promenade 
and  containing  a  crucifix  by  Niclaus  Lerch  of  Leyden  (1467)  and  a 
late-Gothic  ^Mount  of  Olives'  with  stone  figures.  To  the  left,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Schlossberg,  are  the  Landes^Bad  (PI.  D,  2),  for  poor 
patients,  and  the  new  Inhalatorium,  To  the  right  are  the  Ludwig- 
Wilkelms-Stiftj  a  home  for  ladies  founded  by  Grand-Duchess  Louisa 
in  memory  of  her  second  son,  who  died  in  1888,  and  the  Sanatorium 
Annaherg  (higher  up). 

The  Weii6  Schlou  (PI.  0,  2),  on  the  hill  to  the  N.  of  the  town, 
is  most  conveniently  reached  vi&  the  Schloss-Strasse  and  Burg- 
Strasse,  ascending  from  the  Pfarrkirche  (p.  366).  It  was  founded  in 
1479,  enlarged  in  1530  and  1570-80,  seriously  damaged  in  1689, 
and  partly  restored.  In  1842  it  was  fitted  up  as  a  summer-residence 
for  the  Grand-Duke.  The  Schloss  is  open  all  day,  except  12-1  (fee 
1-11/2  •^)-  The  W.  gateway,  with  its  Gothic  vaulting,  leads  into 
the  court  (bell  to  the  left  for  the  castellan),  on  the  E.  side  of  which 
is  the  handsome  Renaissance  chateau.  It  contains  a  number  of 
handsome  saloons  and  the  apartments  of  the  Grand-Duke,  adorned 
with  several  good  modem  pictures,  carving,  family-portraits,  etc. 
The  winding-staircase  (ca.  1575)  in  the  Dagobert-Thurm  is  inter- 
esting. The  curious  subterranean  vaults  with  stone  and  iron  doors 
were  probably  once  used  as  dungeons.  —  The  tasteful  Oarden,  with 
view- terrace,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Schloss,  is  always  open  (entrance 
at  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Schloss ;  steps  descend  to  the  town). 

The  chief  resorts  of  visitors  are  In  the  new  quarters,  and  the 
beautiful  Pleasure  OroundSy  extending  along  the  left  back  of  the  Oos, 
which  flows  for  a  long  distance  through  an  artificial  channel.  The 
busiest  points  are  the  Trinkhalle  and  the  Gonversationshaus. 

The  ConversationBhauB  (525  ft. ;  PI.  B,  3),  designed  by  Wein- 
hrennerj  erected  in  1824,  and  considerably  enlarged  in  1854,  is 
125  yds.  in  length  and  is  preceded  by  a  portico  of  8  columns. 

The  Intebioe  is  gorgeously  fitted  up  by  Parisian  masters.  Imme- 
diately within  the  colonnade  is  the  Gskat  Saloon,  where  the  band  plays 
in  the  evening  in  unfavourable  weather.  To  the  left  are  the  so-called 
Landscape  Saloon,  the  Italian  Saloon,  and  the  Flowek  Saloon*,  to 
the  right  the  Renaissance  Saloon.  The  Kew  Saloons  ,  opened  in  1854, 
are  fitted  up  in  the  Renaissance  style  of  Louis  XIII.  and  Louis  XIV.,  and 
contain  from  April  to  Oct.  a  good  International  Exhibition  of  Art  (week- 
days 10-6:  Sun.  11-6  •,  free  to  holders  of  tickets,  p.  365).  —  In  the  N.  wing  of 
the  building  are  the  well-stocked  reading-rooms.  The  S.  wing  contains  the 
restaurant  (p.  368). 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


368  Route  46.  BADEN.  Greek  Church. 

The  band  which  plays  on  the  'Kaiser-Promenade',  in  front  of  the 
Conversationshans  (p.  367),  always  attracts  a  large  assemblage  of  the 
fashionable  world,  and  on  fine  Sunday  afternoons  the  grounds  are 
crowded  with  visitors  from  Strassburg,  Carlsruhe,  and  other  neigh- 
bouring places.  The  short  avenue  leading  to  the  Leopolds-Brucke, 
to  the  E.  of  the  Conversationshans,  contains  the  Bazaar,  consisting 
of  two  rows  of  stalls  of  various  wares. 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  'Kaiser-Promenade*  is  the  Trink- 
liaUe(Pl.  B,  3),  designed  by  Hiibaeh,  and  erected  in  1839-42.  It  is 
most  frequented  from  7  to  8  in  the  morning,  when  the  band  plays 
and  the  waters  are  drunk.  The  relief  in  the  tympanum,  by  Reich^ 
represents  the  nymph  of  the  springs  administering  health  to  sufferers 
of  every  kind.  The  somewhat  faded  frescoes  in  the  arcades,  by 
Ootzertberger,  represent  legends  of  the  Black  Forest.  —  The  grounds 
in  front  of  the  Trinkhalle  are  adorned  with  a  marble  Bust  of  Emperor 
William  I.,  by  Kopf  (1875). 

On  the  8.  side  of  the  Promenade  is  the  Theatre  (PI.  B,  3),  built 
by  Derchy  in  1861,  and  richly  fitted  up  from  designs  by  Couteau.  — 
Between  the  Conversationshans  and  the  H6tel  Messmer  ascends  the 
Werder-Strasse,  in  which,  to  the  right,  Is  the  studio  of  Professor 
J.  von  Kopf,  the  sculptor  (see  above),  to  which  visitors  are  admitted 
on  Tues.  &  Thurs.,  3-6  p.m.  (80  pf.;  Sunv.11-12  and  3-6,  10  pf.), 
from  July  to  October.  —  The  Kunsthalle  (PI.  B,  0,  3),  at  the  back 
of  the  theatre,  contains  an  exhibition  of  pictures  (adm.  8-6,  Sun. 
&  holidays  11-6;  50  pf.).  Near  it  is  the  International  Club.  Farther 
on,  in  the  Lichtenthaler  A\l4e ,  is  a  marble  bust  of  the  Empress 
Augusta,  by  Kopf  (1894).  —  In  the  Kronprinzen-Strasse ,  farther 
up  the  hill ,  is  the  Kunstlerhaus  (PI.  B ,  4) ,  with  the  studios  of 
several  painters. 

The  Leopolds-Brucke  leads  to  the  Leopolds- Platz  (PI.  0,  3), 
which  is  embellished  with  a  bronze  Statue  of  Orand-Duke  Leopold 
(d.  1852).  The  Sophibn-Strasse,  to  the  E.  of  this  Platz,  is  bor- 
dered with  trees,  and  forms  another  promenade ;  immediately  to  the 
right  is  the  Palais  Hamilton,  bought  by  the  town  in  1900,  with  a 
pretty  garden  (cafe-restaurant,  see  p.  363).  The  handsome  Synagogue 
is  in  the  Stephanien-Str.  —  In  the  new  S.  quarter  of  the  town,  in  the 
Ludwig-Wilhelm-Platz,  are  the  Gothic  Protestant  Church  (PI.  0,  4), 
by  Eisenlohr,  and  the  English  Clmrch(Pl.  C,  5).  The  latter  contains 
some  good  stained-glass  windows,  a  fine  candelabrum  presented  by 
the  Empress  Augusta,  and  a  lectern  given  by  the  Grand-Duchess  of 
Baden.  In  the  Lichtenthaler-Str.  Is  the  Russian  Church  (PI.  C,  D,  5), 
with  a  gilded  dome.  —  On  the  S.W.  slope  of  the  Annaberg  lies  the 
Cemetery  (PI.  D,  4),  with  many  tasteful  monuments. 

On  the  Michaelsberg  rises  the  Oreek  Chnroh  (686  ft. ;  PI.  B,  2), 
erected  in  1863-66  from  designs  by  Klenze  of  Munich  in  memory 
of  a  son  of  the  Roumanian  prince  Michael  Stourdza ,  who  died  at 
Baden  in  1863,  in  his  17th  year.    The  roof  and  dome  are  gilded;  the 

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Liehtenthdl,  BADEN.  46,  BouU,  369 

interior,  which  contains  the  tombs  of  the  family,  is  samptuously 
decorated  with  gold,  marhle,  and  painting.  Key  at  the  house  No.  2; 
fee  50  pf.  (service  on  Sun.,  10-11).  —  A  little  to  the  S.  is  the 
Chdteau  of  Baron  Venrdnger^VUner  (PI.  B,  3),  built  by  Oppler  in  a 
mediaBYal  style. — Farther  up  is  the  Friesenberg  (940  ft.),  the  pretty 
forest-paths  on  which  afford  beautiful  views ;  it  is  reached  by  follow- 
ing the  Werder-Str.  (p.  368)  or  the  Beutig-Str.,  or  direct  from 
the  Greek  church.  —  The  Beutig-Str.  is  continued  to  the  Cro$8  on 
the  Beutig  (830  ft.;  PI.  A,  4),  opposite  which  is  the  Villa  Weineck, 
the  property  of  the  late  Herr  Krupp^  the  great  iron  and  steel  manu- 
facturer of  Essen.  Farther  on,  to  the  left  of  the  road,  is  the  Edtel" 
Cafi  Ghretel,  and  still  farther  on,  1^4  M.  from  the  Conversationshaus, 
is  the  Hotel  Kaiserin  Elisabeth  (comp.  p.  373).  —  Pretty  paths  lead 
from  the  Friesenberg  to  the  Waldaee  (665  ft.),  in  the  valley  of  the 
Miehelbach. 

Environs  op  Baden. 

For  the  purposes  of  the  *  Terrain  Cure'  for  diseases  of  the  heart  and 
lungs  the  chief  walks  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Baden  are  classified  by 
means  of  coloured  marks  on  the  trees,  yellow  signifying  a  level  path,  red 
an  easy  ascent,  red  and  yellow  a  steep  ascent.  The  height  above  the 
Gonversationahaus  is  given  (in  metres)  at  various  points  in  red  figures  on 
a  white  ground. 

The  most  attractive  walk  in  the  vicinity  of  Baden  is  the  *Lich- 
tenthaler  Allie  (PI.  B,  3,  4,  0,  5,  6),  ascending  the  left  bank  of  the 
Oosbach,  and  much  frequented  in  the  afternoon  by  pedestrians, 
cyclists,  and  carriages.  The  fine  old  trees  are  surrounded  with  flower- 
beds and  shrubberies.  On  the  left  beyond  the  brook  are  numerous 
lawn-tennis  courts  and  sumptuous  hotels,  and  on  the  right  are  a 
number  of  handsome  viUas.  About  \/^  M.  from  the  theatre,  beside 
the  AlMe-Haus  (No.  6),  the  roads  to  the  Fremersberg  and  the  Yburg 
(p.  374)  diverge  to  the  right;  and  about  ^2  M.  farther  on  the  road 
to  Gunzenbach  (PI.  D,  6)  also  runs  off  to  the  right. 

Following  the  above-mentioned  Fremersberg  road  and  then  turning 
to  the  left,  we  may  reach  the  Sauersberg  (930  ft.  •,  pleasant  view  from  the 
Birkenkopf)  in  V«  ^^t  and  the  Whey  Cure  Establishment  (refreshments)  in 
10  min.  more.  —  The  Quntenbach-Thal^  with  a  prettily  situated  garden- 
restaurant  and  the  Chinzenbacher  iTo/ (pension  ^  PI.  G,  6),  is  interesting  to 
mineralogists.  At  the  entrance  to  the  Gun^.enbacb-Thal  a  guide-board  in- 
dicates the  way  to  the  Leopoldsh&he^  commanding  a  fine  view,  —  A  path 
leads  from  the  All^e  to  the  top  of  the  Caedlienherg  (p.  870). 

About  IV2  M.  from  the  Conversationshaus  we  reach  — 

Liohtenthal.  —  HoteU  (all  with  gardens  and  restaurants).  *BIb,  R. 
from  2,  B.  1,  D.  3%^  pens.  6-8  Ui^;  "^LnDwiosBAD,  with  a  chalybeate  spring, 
E.  from  2,  B.  V*,  D-  2V4,  pens.  5-7  Jf ;  *L6wb,  R.  IV2-2,  B.  Vi,  I>'2,  pens. 
41/2-6  Jl ;  *GoLDNE8  Ebeuz,  similar  charges.  —  Caecilienberg  Beer  Oarden. 

OifinBDS  to  Baden,  the  Piscicultural  Establishment,  etc.,  see  pp.  364,  365. 

At  Liehtenthal  (610ft.),  formerly  called  Unter-Beuemj  a  village 
with  4300  inhab.,  is  situated  the  Nunnbry  op  Lichtbnthal  (to 
the  right,  beyond  the  bridge),  which  was  founded  in  1245  by  Irmen- 
gard,  granddaughter  of  Henry  the  Lion  and  widow  of  Hermann  V. 

Basdbkbb's  Rhine.    i5th  Edit.  24*      _ 


370   Route  d6.  BAD^N.  Oetotsau. 

of  Baden.  The  convent,  taken  by  the  Margraves  of  fiaden  nnder 
their  special  protection,  has  escaped  the  devastations  of  war  and 
the  ravages  of  time,  and  is  still  occupied  by  Cistercian  nuns.  The 
Churchy  which  has  no  aisles,  contains  the  14th  cent,  tomb  of  the 
foundress  (d.  1260),  consisting  of  a  sarcophagus  and  a  fine  figure  of 
the  Margravine.  Adjoining  the  church  and  connected  with  it  by  an 
archway  is  the  Todteu"  Capelle  (mortuary  chapel),  built  in  the  Gothic 
style  in  1288,  and  restored  in  1830.  It  contains  tombstones  of  Mar- 
graves of  Baden-Durlach,  and  two  altar-pieces  (retouched),  wrongly 
ascribed  to  Hans  Baldung  Grien  (1496).  The  Orphan  Asylum j  within 
the  precincts  of  the  convent,  was  founded  by  the  wealthy  and 
benevolent  London  tailor  Stulz  (p.  376),  who  was  afterwards  ennobled. 
In  front  of  the  nunnery  is  a  War  Monument  for  1870-71. 

The  pine-clad  Caecilienberg  (750  ft.),  immediately  behind  the 
nunnery,  a  spur  of  the  Kloaterberg  (1760  ft.),  affords  pleasant  walks 
and  charming  views.    Higher  up  rises  the  new  Parish  Church, 

On  the  Seelach  (900  ft.),  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Gerolsan  (ascended  from 
the  nonnery  in  Vz  hr. ;  road  to  the  right  of  the  parish-chareh,  footpath  to 
the  left),  stands  the  villa  of  Princess  Bariatinska,  in  the  mediseval  style,  a 
fine  point  of  view  (restaurant,  adjacent;  omn.,  see  p.  364).  —  The  hroad 
road  ascends,  skirting  the  Baden  aqueduct,  to  (1^4-2  brs.)  the  Seherrhof 
(2225  rt.),  whence  the  top  of  the  Badener  Hdhe  (p.  390)  may  he  reached  by 
footpaths  in  IVz  hr. 

From  Lichtenthal  the  road,  which  is  destitute  of  shade,  ascends 
the  Bbubenbb-Thal,  passing  several  houses  and  hamlets,  to(iy4M.) 
Ober-Beuem.  Above  the  door  of  the  Waldhom  Inn  is  the  laughing 
head  of  the  late  host,  a  relief  by  the  well-known  French  sculptor 
Danian  (d.  1869).  —  The  valley  now  contracts,  and  trees  become 
more  numerous.  About  IY2  M.  from  the  convent  the  road  divides, 
the  main  branch,  to  the  left,  proceeding  by  Miillenbaoh  to  Gerns- 
bach  and  Sohloss  Eberstein  (comp.  p.  373).  To  the  right,  on  the 
branch  leading  to  Galsbach  and  Forbaeh  (p.  393) ,  is  the  Qaishach 
Piscicultural  Establishment  (the  ^Fischkultur*;  876  ft.;  fair  inn  and 
restaurant;  adm.  to  breeding-ponds  30  pf.),  situated  in  a  cool  and 
shady  nook  of  the  valley,  and  a  favourite  point  for  excursions  from 
Baden  (omnibus,  see  p.  365). 

If  ear  Lichtenthal,  on  the  S.W.,  opens  the  Gerolsan  y  a  pretty 
grassy  valley  watered  by  the  Orobbachj  and  fringed  with  wood,  where 
(l/4hr.)  the  Oerolsauer  AfuWc  (open-air  restaurant)  and  the  straggling 
village  of  Oerolsau  (740  ft. ;  Auerhahn ;  Hirsch)  are  situated.  A  road 
a  little  beyond  the  Auerhahn  inn  leads  to  the  right  from  Gerolsau 
by  Malschbach  (860  ft.)  to  Neuweier  (p.  374 ;  6  M.  from  Lichten- 
thal). We,  however,  follow  the  road  to  the  left.  A  footpath,  more 
picturesque  than  the  road ,  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  latter  on 
the  oth  r  side  of  the  bridge  over  the  Grobbach ,  and  ascends  the 
right  bank  of  the  stream.  In  about  1  hr.  from  the  Lichtenthal 
nunnery  we  reach  the  pretty  Oerolsau  Waterfall (290  ft.',  restaurant; 
omnibus ,  see  p.  366). 

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AlUScUoaa.  BADEN.  46.  RouU.  Sli 

From  the  Gerolsau  Waterfall  to  Schwanenwasbn  and  Plattxo  (IV2- 
2  hrs. ;  carriage  from  Baden-Baden  in  3  hrs.,  see  p.  365;  omnibus,  see 
p.  366).  The  road  from  the  waterfall  crosses  the  Qrobbach  to  the  right 
(8/4  M.)  and  ascends  round  the  Lanzenkopf  to  (IVz  ^0  the  top  of  the 
achwanenwoien  (p.  289).  The  Oher-Plattig  (p.  889)  Ues  nearly  2  M.  farther 
on.  —  Walkers  may  follow  the  carriage-road  (or  they  may  skirt  the  stream 
by  a  footpath  which  rejoins  the  -road  1/4  hr.  farther  up),  but  beyond  the 
bridge,  at  the  first  sharp  curve,  they  should  quit  the  road  and  .^cend 
the  iogging  road'  to  the  left  for  6  min.,  then  take  the  footpath  to  the 
left,  which  rejoins  the  road  in  V^  br. ;  it  then  ascends  steeply,  and 
farther  on  again  touches  the  road  several  times  (guide-posts  at  all 
doubtful  points). 

To  THB  Badsnss  HOhe,  2  hrs.  At  the  fork,  */«  ^*  froi>^  the  Gerolsau 
Waterfall,  carriages  take  the  branch  to  the  left,  which  remains  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Grobbach  and  V4  M.  farther  on  tarns  once  more  to  the 
left  into  the  valley  of  the  Urbach.  After  crossing  the  (*/*  M.)  Qrimbach^  the 
road  ascends  the  Urbach  valley  in  numerous  windings  to  the  JSerrenineter 
JSatiel  (2895  fk.),  whence  the  road  to  the  Badener  Hohe  leads  to  the  left.  — 
Walkers  should  choose  the  road  (21/4  M.  from  the  waterfall)  ascending  the 
valley  of  the  Qrimbach  and  passing  the  Ifeuhaut ;  1 M.  farther  on  is  a  footpath 
to  the  right,  skirting  the  FdlU  of  the  Orimbach.  Above  the  falls  we 
cross  the  roaa  \  Vz  M.  farther  on,  beside  a  solitary  house  (left),  a  second  road 
is  crossed.  From  the  (Vs  M.)  fork  the  left  branch  leads  to  the  Herren- 
wieser  See,  the  right  branch  to  the  Badener  Hohe  (p.  890). 

The  Altb  Scbloss  (1  br.),  lying  1000  ft.  above  Baden  to  the  N, 
(comp.  PI.  C,  2,  D,  2, 1,  and  the  Map ;  omn.,  see  p.  365),  is  reached 
by  a  carriage-road  ascending  at  first  through  meadows  and  orchards 
and  afterwards  throngh  fragrant  pine- woods.  Walkers  should,  how- 
ever, ascend  the  Schloss-Str.  (p.  367),  and  above  the  Schloss- 
Garten  follow  the  shortcuts  avoiding  the  curves  of  the  road.  About 
halfway  is  the  Sophienruhe  (1045  ft.),  a  projecting  rock  with  a  pa- 
vilion, beyond  which  is  a  fresh  spring.  (The  path  diverging  to  the 
left  at  the  next  bend  leads  to  the  Kellersbild,  p.  372.)  —  From  the 
station  we  take  the  Leopold-Str.,  passing  the  Schiesshaus  (comp. 
PL  A,  B,  1),  and  then  f(dlow  the  direction-posts  (40  min.  to  the 
Schloss). 

The  paths  meet  at  the  Schloss-Terrasse  (1328  ft.),  on  which  is  an 
excellent  restaurant  (official  tariff),  with  shady  seats  in  the  open  air. 
The  *Alte  Schloss  Hohenbaden  is  an  extensive  structure  situated 
on  a  buttress  of  the  Battert ,  the  waUg  of  which  probably  date  in 
part  from  the  3rd  cent.,  when  the  Romans  constructed  some  forti- 
fications here.  From  the  11th  cent.  untU  the  construction  of  the 
Neue  Schloss  (p.  367)  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Margraves.  The  so- 
called  Rittersaal  dates  from  the  end  of  the  14th  century.  Since  its 
destruction  by  the  French  in  1689  the  castle  has  been  a  complete 
ruin,  but  the  tower  has  been  rendered  accessible  by  steps  (10  pf.). 
The  *View  from  the  top  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  from 
Speyer  to  a  point  far  beyond  Strassburg  (not  itself  visible) ;  in  the 
foreground  lies  the  charming  valley  of  Baden,  with  its  bright  villas, 
its  light-green  woods  of  beech  and  oak,  and  its  sombre  pine-forests ; 
to  the  S.  is  the  Black  Forest  with  the  Badener  Hohe  (morning  light 
most  favourable). 

To  the  S.,  on  the  summit  of  the  Battert  (1855  ft.),  reached  from 

24* 


372  Boute  46,  BADEN.  EbtrsUinhurg, 

the  Schloss  in  74^^*  (finger-post),  rise  the  precipitoasFelsen  (*rocks*3, 
a  number  of  fantastically-cleft  masses  of  porphyry.  A  good  path  leads 
through  this  chaos  of  rock,  of  which  the  FeUen-Brucke^  commanding 
a  magnificent  view,  is  the  finest  point.  Paths,  provided  with  finger- 
posts, lead  hence  to  (8/4  hr.)  the  EberSteinburg,  and  also  to  the  right 
to  the  Teufelskanzel  and  the  Mercuriusberg.  An  easier  and  shorter 
route  leads  from  the  castle  to  the  E.  along  the  base  of  the  Felsen. 

About  2  H.  to  the  K.W.  of  the  Alte  Schloss,  on  the  Eardberg^  is  the 
Dreibwffm-Blick,  affording  a  view  of  the  Alte  Schloss,  the  Tburg ,  and  the 
Ebersteinhurg.  It  may  be  reached  from  Baden  yi&  the  Kellerabiid  (p.  371) 
or  viH  Badenschenern. 

From  the  Alte    Schloss  at  Baden  and  from  Ebersteinhurg  pleasant 


paths  lead  through  the  woods  (comp.  Map  at  p.  868;  the  paths  eventually 
quit  the  woods)  to  (6  H.  from  Baden ;  1  M.  from  the  station  of  Kuppen- 
heim)  the  Favorite  (430  ft),  a  chateau  of  the  Grand-Duke,  erected  in  r725, 


in  the  rococo  style,  by  the  Margravine  Sibylla  Augusta,  widow  of  the  Mar- 
grave Lewis  William  (d.  1707),  who  after  the  death  of  her  husband  su- 
perintended the  education  of  her  sons  for  nineteen  years,  and  then  retired 
to  this  spot.  The  interior  is  decorated  in  the  taste  of  the  period  and 
contains  a  valuable  collection  of  porcelain.    Small  restaurant. 

The  Route  fbom  Baden  to  Eberstbinburg  (872  M.)  is  by  the  old 
Gernsbach  road  (PI.  D,  2),  ascending  the  valley  to  the  E.  between 
the  Battert  and  the  Mercuriusberg.  About  1/2  M.  from  the  Old  Cemetery 
(p.  367),  at  the  Morgenrothe  Inn^  a  pleasant  path  diverges  to  the 
right  to  the  Teufelskanzel.  Farther  on  is  the  WcUdachlosschen  Inn 
(p.  363).  Near  the  saddle  of  the  hill  (1225  ft.;  •Wartburg  Inn^ 
pens.  5  Jf)  are  two  rocks  known  as  the  Teufelskanzel  (1245  ft.)  and 
Engelskanzel  (1280  ft.),  both  affording  good  views.  To  the  right  is  a 
pretty  and  almost  level  road,  leading  through  wood  to  the  Mercurius- 
berg and  the  MiiUenbild  (p.  373;  pleasant  return-route  over  the 
Annaberg).  The  Ebersteinhurg  road  leads  to  the  left.  A  little 
farther  on  is  a  finger-post,  also  on  the  left,  indicating  the  way  to 
the  romantic  Wolfssehlucht^  through  the  woods  of  which  we  may 
ascend  to  the  village  of  Ebersteinhurg. 

From  the  village  of  Ebersteinhurg  (1398  ft.;  Krone,  R.  2-4, 
D.  21/2*  pens.  5  ujf ;  Hirsch)  we  ascend  in  10  min.  to  the  top  of  the 
isolated  eminence  which  bears  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  *Ebersteiii- 
hjugf  or  the  Alt-Eberstein  (1605  ft. ;  restaurant).  Fine  view  from 
the  tower  (10  pf.).  The  castle  stands  on  Roman  substructures,  and 
the  present  office  dates  from  the  10-14th  centuries.  It  was  once 
the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Eberstein,  and  afterwards  belonged  to 
the  Margraves  of  Baden.  Visitors  should  be  familiar  with  Uhland's 
ballad  of  the  Count  of  Eberstein  and  the  Emperor*8  daughter. 

The  MBBCUBIU8BEB.G,  the  highest  mountain  near  Baden,  may  be 
ascended  in  I72  ^^-  ^Y  one  of  several  different  routes.  The  car- 
riage-road diverges  on  the  above-mentioned  saddle  of  the  hill  to 
the  right  from  the  old  Gernsbach  road ,  passes  near  the  Teufels- 
kanzel, and  leads  to  the  top  in  long  windings  in  less  than  an  hour. 
— -  The  shortest  route  starts  from  the  Scheiben-Strasse  in  Baden  (PL 
C,  D,  3),  and  crosses  the  Annaberg  (995  ft.),  a  spur  of  the  Merou- 


Mercuriuabcrg,  BADEN.  46.  BotUe.  373 

riusberg.  At  the  top  Is  the  reservoir  of  the  Baden  water- works,  neai 
which  aie  the  Karlshof  Restaurant^  with  a  garden  commanding  a  fine 
yiew,  and  theHofAnnaherg ;  here  we  keep  straight  on,  through  wood 
(numerous  finger-posts).  The  easiest  ascent  quits  the  old  Gemshach 
road  above  the  Morgenrothe  Inn  (p.  372)  and  leads  to  the  right  over 
the  Maisenkopfle  (1120  ft.).  From  Lichtenthal  we  mount  to  the  left 
by  the  Kreuz  Inn,  leaving  the  Schaafberg  (1050  ft.)  to  the  right,  and 
then  ascend  the  FaUcenhalde.  —  The  summit  of  the  Mercariasberg, 
or  Qrosse  Staufen  (2205  ft.),  is  occupied  by  a  tower  76  ft.  in  height, 
which  commands  a  very  extensive  *View.  The  mountain  derives  its 
name  from  a  Roman  votive  stone  found  here,  and  now  preserved  in 
a  small  niche  made  for  its  reception.  —  The  above-mentioned  car- 
riage-road passes  near  the  summit  of  the  Mercuriusberg,  skirts  the 
W.  slope  of  the  Kleine  Staufenberg  (2050  ft.),  and  at  the  Mullen- 
bild  joins  the  new  road  to  Gernsbach  (see  below).  Pedestrians  may 
reach  Gernsbach  from  the  Mercuriusberg  in  1  hr.  vi^  Staufenberg 
(see  below),  by  taking  the  path  to  the  E.  at  the  bifurcation  of  the 
roads  on  the  Binsenwasen  (1695  ft. ;  finger-post). 

Fboh  Baden  to  Gebnsbach  (p.  391)  by  the  new  road  vift 
Lichtenthal  and  Beuern  (p.  370),  6V2M.  About  8/4  M.  from  the  Pis- 
cicultnral  Establishment,  the  hamlet  of  Miillenbach  (inn;  1056  ft.) 
is  reached,  after  which  the  road  ascends  very  circuitously  (pedestrians 
effect  a  saving  by  proceeding  straight  on  from  the  inn)  to  the  so- 
called  MulUnbild  (1260  ft.;  4V2  M.  from  Baden),  where  it  divides 
into  two  branches,  that  to  the  left  descending  to  (2  M.)  Gerns- 
bach, and  that  to  the  right  leading  along  the  hill  to  (3  M.)  Schloss 
Eberstein  (p.  392;  omn.,  see  p.  365).  —  The  old  road  (6  M.)  as  far 
as  the  saddle  (1225  ft.)  between  the  Teufelskanzel  and  the  Engels- 
kanzel  Is  described  on  p.  372.  Fine  view  of  the  Murgthal  in  descend- 
ing. On  the  right,  after  about  1 V4  M.,  where  the  road  again  ascends 
a  little,  is  the  NeuhauSj  a  solitary  inn.  The  road  then  descends  the 
hillside  to  the  left  to  Gernsbach.  Pedestrians  descend  by  a  steep 
road  to  the  right  about  8  min.  beyond  the  Neuhaus;  V4  ^^'  Staufen^ 
berg;  72^^-  Oemsbach,   (Comp.  the  Map,  p.  368.) 

To  THB  Fbemebsbbbo,  wo  may  either  follow  the  Werder-Str. 
and  Moltke-Str.,  passing  the  H6tel  Kaiaerin  Elisabeth  (see  p.  363); 
or  we  may  leave  the  Lichtenthaler  AU^e  by  the  Fremersberg-Str. 
(PI.  B,  5;  p.  369),  which  diverges  to  the  right,  about  Va  M.  from 
the  theatre,  and  in  little  more  than  V2  M.  passes  a  group  of  houses 
known  as  Tkiergarten.  About  */2  M.  farther  on  the  two  routes  unite, 
beside  the  Hdtel  Friih  and  the  Hdtel-Restaurant  zum  Korbmaltfelsen 
(also  pension).  The  road  then  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  the 
Korbmattfels  (1700  ft.)  and  the  Yburg  (p.  374),  and  the  right 
through  wood  to  (3  M.)  the  Fremersberg  (1730  ft. ;  Irhri),  Another 
attractive  route  ascends  from  Baden  in  l^/^  hr.  past  the  Waldsee 
(p.  369).  The  view  from  the  top  commands  a  wide  survey  of  the 
Rhine  valley,  We  return  by  the  (27?  M.)  Jagdhaus  (800  ft.;  own., 

«d  by  Google 


374  Route  47.  ACHERN.  FromBadm 

p.  365),  with  a  frequented  restaurant  (also  pension)  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  Rhine  Talley,  to  (88/4  M.)  Baden. 

To  THE  Ybubo,  another  favourite  excursion  (,5M.;  omn.,  see 
p.  366).  The  road  ascends  from  the  All^e-Haus  (p.  369)  among 
gardens  (view),  skirts  the  £.  slope  of  the  KorbmaitftU  (jp.  373), 
traversing  line  woods,  and  reaches  (4  M.)  the  shelter  on  the  Lache 
(1490  ft.),  a  narrow  saddle,  where  numerous  paths  diverge.  Hence 
to  the  Yburg,  about  1  M.  The  ancient  Thurg  (1695  ft. ;  Inuj  very 
fair)  was,  like  the  Ebersteinburg,  once  a  Roman  watch-tower.  Wide 
view  of  the  Black  Forest  Mts.  and  the  Rhine  valley,  best  in  the 
morning.  From  the  Yburg  to  Steinhach  (see  below),  4^2  M.  A 
road  and  footpath  descend  to  the  H6tel  zum  Eorbmattfelsen  (p.  373) 
in  3/4-1  hr. 

47.    From  Baden  to  Freiburg  and  BUe. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  386^  398^  404^  and  418. 
Railway  to  Fbeibdbo   (66  M.)  in  2Vs-4s/t  hrs.  (express  fares  9  «#  80, 
6  Jl  96,  4  ur  80  pf. ;  ordinary  8  UT  70.  6  Jf  85,  8  UT  70  pf.)  -,  to  Bale  (106  M.) 
in  4V«-7V4  hrs.    (express  fares  16  UT  30,   10  UT  96pf.i  ordinary   13  UT  85, 
9  Ur  20,  6ur  85  pf.).    Finest  views  to  the  left. 

Badeny  see  p.  362.  —  21/2  M.  OoSj  see  p.  362.  —  To  the  left  rise 
the  Black  Forest  Mts. ;  in  the  foreground  the  Yburg  (see  above\  — 
41/2  M.  8in%heim.  —  Near  (7  M.)  Steinbacb  (Stem,  pens.  31/2-6'ur), 
on  a  barren  hill  to  the  left,  is  a  statue  of  Ertom,  the  architect  of  Strass- 
burg  Oathedral  (p.  306),  supposed  to  have  been  a  native  of  Stein- 
bach  (d.  at  Strassburg,  1318).  A  road  leads  hence  to  the  E.  to  (6M.) 
the  Tburg  (see  above).  In  the  valley  of  the  Steifibach,  about  2  M. 
from  the  station  of  that  name,  lies  the  village  of  Neuweier  (605  ft. ; 
Lamm) ,  with  an  ancient  castle  and  excellent  wine  (*Mauerwein'). 
Hence  to  Baden,  via  Malschbach  (p.  370),  6  M. ;  to  the  Yburg 
472  M.  < —  AffenihaUr,  one  of  the  best  red  wines  of  Baden,  Is  pro- 
duced around  (IY2  ^0  Affenthal  (Auerhahn),  to  the  S.£.  The 
Schartenherg  (1710  ft.)  is  ascended  from  Affenthal  in  ^/^  hr. 

10  M.  Bfthl  (446  ft. ;  Babe,  Badischer  Hof,  Stem,  all  very  fair),  a 
thriving  place  with  33()0  inhabitants.  The  new  Gothic  church  has  a 
handsome  pierced  spire ;  the  old  church,  with  a  tower  dating  from 
the  16th  cent. ,  is  now  the  Rathhaus.  On  the  hill  to  the  S.  £.  rises  the 
ruined  castle  of  Alt-Windeck  (1285  ft. ;  I74  hr.),  with  two  towers, 
once  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race  which  became  extinct  in  1592  (inn). 

A  fteam-tramway  plies  from  Biihl  to  (24  M.)  Kehl  (p.  876)  in  2  hrs.  — 
About  6  M.  to  the  V.W.  of  Biihl  lies  Bchwartcuih,  with  a  late-Romanesque 
abbey-church  of  the  i2th  cent,  (well  restored). 

Local  railway  up  the  BUhler-lhal  to  Oberthal,  and  road  thence  to  the 
8(md,  PldtUg,  etc.,  see  p.  889. 

IIV4  M.  Ottersweier  (Adler;  Sonne),  with  2400  inhabitants. 

15  M.  Aohem.  —  HoteU.  Adleb,  R.  1V«-8,  pens,  b-7  Jf\  Post,  well 
man  ged,  both  ifi  the  town,  about  Vf  M.  from  the  station,  -r  Bapu  i^  t^p 
Acher,2dpf.  DgtzedbyGoOglC 


toBdle.  OFFENBURG.  47.  Route.   375 

Carriaget  at  the  station  and  hotels  according  to  tariff:  to  Allerheiligen 
16  j$i  Brigittenschloss  12  j${  Breitenbrunnen  16  j$. 

Achem  (480  ft.),  a  thriving  little  town  with  4000  inhah.,  lies 
at  the  moath  of  the  Kappeler-Thal.  The  market-place  is  adorned 
with  a  monument  to  the  Grand-Duke  Leopold  (d.  1852).  The  Lunatic 
Asylum  of  IHenau,  near  Achern,  accommodates  500  patients. 

Branch-railway  from  Achem  through  the  Eappeler-Thal  to  OtUnMfen 
(Allerheiligen),  see  p.  396. 

At  Sasbach,  I'/z  M.  to  the  K.E.  of  Achem,  the  French  Marshal  Turenne 
fell  in  1675  daring  an  engagement  with  the  imperial  General  Montecuccoli. 
The  granite  obelisk  was  erected  by  the  French  government  in  1829. 

Pleasant  walk  (1  hr.)  past  the  Erlenbad  (now  a  seminary  for  lady- 
missionaries),  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  Sasbach,  and  on  to  the  ruins  of  Neu-Windeck 
or  Latter  Schloss,  perched  on  a  precipitous  rock  above  the  village  of  Lauf. 
From  Lauf  by  Neu-Windeck  or  GlashUtte  and  by  a  new  path  vi|  the  Breiten- 
biimnen  Curhaut  (p.  390)  to  the  top  of  the  Ifomisgrinde  (p.  390),  3-3V3  hrs. 
—  The  Brigittenschloss  (or  Hohenroder  Schloss  ;  2o00  ft.),  picturesquely  sit- 
uated 7  M.  to  the  E.  of  Achern,  is  insignificant  as  a  ruin,  but  commands 
a  noble  prospect.  Halfway  the  road  passes  through  Sasbachwalden  (847  ft. ; 
Bebstock;  Stem),  a  beautifully-situated  village,  above  which  is  the  Oais- 
MhU^  with  waterfalls  (inn). 

19  M.  jBenc^cn  (Sonne ;  Engel),  with  2100inhab.,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Renchthaly  with  a  monument  to  H.  J.  von  Grimmelshausen, 
the  author  of  *Simplici8simu8',  who  died  here  in  1676.  —  22  M. 
Appenweier  (450  ft. ;  Railway  Hotel),  a  village  with  1700  In- 
habitants. The  railways  to  Strassbnrg  and  to  Oppenau  (see  p.  397) 
diverge  here  from  the  main  line  (change  carriages). 

Fbom  Appenweibb  to  Kehx.  and  Strassburg,  iSVz  M..  railway  in  >/«  hi'* 
The  line  traverses  the  plain  of  the  Kimig.  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  at 
Kehl.    8  M.  UgeUhurtts  b^l^  M.  Kork.  —  To  the  right  is  Fort  Bote. 

9  M.  Kehl  (460ft  ;  Saltnen^  near  the  station;  Bltme,  R.  13/4-3,  D.  2V2  *M; 
U.  S.  Consul,  Joseph  I.  Britiain\  a  small  Baden  town  (4200  inhab.),  was 
erected  by  the  French  as  a  tSte-de-pnnt  of  Strassburg  in  168S.  Since  the 
bombardment  of  Strassburg  in  1870  Kehl  has  been  largely  rebuilt.  Kxcellent 
baths  nn  the  Rhine.  —  Steam-tramway  to  Bfihl,  see  p.  374.  Another  runs 
in  lV4hr,,  vt&  (9  M.)  AHmheim  (branch  to  Offenburg,  see  below),  to  (ISVa  M.) 
Oitenheim  (station  17*  M.  from  the  Rhine  bridge),  where  it  joins  the  Lahr 
tramway  (p.  376). 

At  Kehl  the  Rhine  is  crossed  by  two  iron  bridges  (p.  314).  The  train 
traverses  the  lower  of  these,  with  a  view  (on  the  right)  of  the  new  Strass- 
bui^  harbour  and  the  Sporen-Insel.  —  Beyond  (32  M.)  Neudorf  ii  enters 
the  l»rge  station  of  (iSVa  M.)  Strassburg  (see  p.  302). 

From  Appenweier  to  Oppenau^  see  p.  397. 

The  line  now  runs  parallel  with  the  mountains  of  the  Black 
Forest.  In  the  distance  to  the  left  rises  the  castle  of  Staufenberg 
(1266  ft.),  founded  in  the  11th  cent,  by  Otho  of  Hohenstaufen, 
Bishop  of  Strassburg,  and  now  the  property  of  Prince  William  of 
Baden.  It  is  much  visited  (II/2  hr.)  for  its  splendid  view  from 
(241/2  M.)  Windschlag,  the  next  station,  vi&  (3  M.)  Durhach  (Rltter ; 
Linde). 

27  M.  Offenbnrg,  —  Hotels.  Railway  Hotel,  with  garden,  R.  ft-om  2, 
B.  1.  D.  2V«  J(;  Oppenbdbgeb  Hop,  R.  1V4-2,  D.  iy<-i*/4  Jl;  Ochse,  R.  H/i-S, 
D.  i^ltj$\  Rhbinibcheb  Hop;  Schwarzer  Adler  or  Post;  Sonne,  good 
wine  \  the  last  four  in  the  town.  -^  Jiailtoap  Restaurant,  ^-  Steam-tramway 
to  Altenheim,  see  above,  ^  j 

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376  BouiedJ.  LAHB.  From  Baden 

Offeriburg  (530  ft.),  a  small  town  on  the  Kintigf  with  13,700  in- 
hab.,  was  once  an  imperial  town,  and  down  to  the  Peace  of  Press- 
burg  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Orienau  or  Mortnau.  It  contains 
a  statue  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  *the  introducer  of  the  potato  into 
Europe,  1586/  by  Friedrioh,  a  monument  with  the  bust  of  the 
naturalist  Oken  (d.  1851),  and  a  modern  Gothic  Protestant  Church 
in  red  sandstone  with  an  open-work  tower.  —  A  pleasant  excursion 
may  be  made  to  the  E.,  tII  ZeU,  to  the  top  of  the  Brandeckkopf 
(2270  ft.;  Tiew-tower). 

From  Offenbnrg  to  ffautaeh^  Triberg,  and  Constance,  see  p.  400. 

The  train  crosses  the  Kinzig,  On  a  hill  to  the  left  rises  Schloss 
Ortenberg  (p.  400).  32V2  M.  Nieder'Schopfheim;  35  M.  Friesen- 
helm.  —  38 Vt  M.  Dinglingen  (530ft.),  the  junction  of  a  branch-line 
to  (2  M.)  Lahr  (660  ft. ;  *8onne ;  Krauss ;  beer  at  the  Bajjpcn), 
an  industrial  town  with  13,600  inhab.,  in  the  Schutter-Thal,  It 
contains  a  venerable  Abbey  Church,  a  modern  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
an  old  Raihhaus,  and  a  War  Monument.  In  the  Dinglingen  suburb, 
beyond  the  Christus-Kirche,  is  the  8tadt-Park,  containing  the  muni- 
cipal collections  and  library  and  monuments  to  Bismarck  and  the 
poet  Eichrodt  (1827-92).  Near  the  old  Storehen-Thurm  are  the 
remains  of  a  reservoir  of  the  12th  century. 

A  Stbax  Tkauwat  rans  from  Lahr  to  IHngUngen  and  (7i/s  M.)  Otims- 
heim  (see  above  and  p.  375),  and  in  the  other  direction,  up  the  BehvtUr-Thal, 
to  (3  M.)  Reiehenbwh  and  (41/3  M.)  Sselbach.  From  Beichenbach  a  road  leads 
to  the  £.,  vi&  Hohen-aeroldseek,  to  Biberaeh  (p.  400). 

In  the  graveyard  of  Meiuehhetm,  7M.  to  theN.W.  of  Dinglingen,  rests 
Frederica  Brion  (d.  1813),  Goethe's  early  love  (see  p.  298).  *Ein  Strahl  der 
Dichtersonne  fiel  auf  sie,  so  reich,  dass  er  Unsterblichkeit  ihr  lieh\ 

41 1/2 M.  Kippenheim(6Sb  ft. ;  Anker),  amarket-town,  lying  72  M. 
from  the  station,  was  the  birthplace  of  Stul%,  the  rich  tailor  (p.  370), 
and  possesses  a  monument  to  him.  —  The  castle  of  Mahlberg,  on  a 
basaltic  hill  to  the  left,  above  the  small  town  of  that  name  (595  ft. ; 
Prinz),  was  once  the  seat  of  the  old  Baden  governors.  In  the  middle 
ages  it  belonged  to  the  Hohenstaufen  family. 

From  (441/2  M.)  Orschweier  (546  ft.;  Krone)  a  narrow-gauge 
railway  runs  via  Orafenhausen  and  Kappel  to  (5  M.)  the  Rhine  (op- 
posite Rheinau,  on  the  left  bank,  whence  there  is  a  steam-tramway 
to  Strassburg);  and,  in  the  other  direction,  through  fine  woods,  to 
Ettenheim  (Deutscher  Hof),  Munchweiery  and  the  (5  M.)  small  baths 
of  Ettenheimmunster. 

A  melancholy  interest  attaches  to  Bttenheim  as  the  spot  where  the 
Dae  d'Enghien  was  arrested  by  order  of  Kapoleon  on  the  night  of  13th 
March,  1^,  to  be  shot  at  Vincennes  six  days  later. 

46  M.  Ringsheim  (view  from  the  Kalenberg,  1020  ft. ;  «/4^0-  be- 
tween (471/2  M.)  Herbolzheim  and  (50  M.)  Kenzingen  the  line  crosses 
the  Bleiche,  Farther  on  it  crosses  the  Elt  twice.  Above  Hecklingen 
are  the  ruins  of  Lichtenegg,  once  a  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Tiibingen.  To 
the  W.  Is  the  Leopold  Canal,  which  drains  this  once  marshy  district. 

53  M.  Biegel  (690  ft.),  the  station  for  the  Kaisersiuhl  RaOway, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


toBdle.  FREIBURG.  47.  Route.  377 

which  runs  to  (8/4  M.)  the  small  town  of  Biegel  (Kopf),  where  it 
forks,  one  hranch  skirting  the  £.,  the  other  the  N.  and  W.  slopes 
of  the  Kaiserstuhl-Oebirge,  a  hasaltic  and  Ylne-clad  hill-district 
ahout  42  sq.  M.  in  area,  which  rises  from  the  plain  in  upwards  of 
40  peaks  hetween  the  Dreisam  and  the  Rhine. 

Kaisbbstdhl  Railway.  The  E.  branch  of  the  railway  runs  viSl  Bah- 
lingen^  Nimbwg ,  EichsteUen^  and  BOtzingen  to  (8  H.)  Gottenheim  (p.  384). 
From  Botzingen  a  road  ascends  via  (Vs  M)  Obenehaffhniuen  (Krone;  Bad) 
tojl  hr.)  the  saddle  between  the  EicheltpiUe  (12^0  ft.)  and  the  Neanlindenherg 
{VsSi  ft.),  whence  we  may  ascend  the  Todtmkopf  (1835  ft.  \  view),  the  highest 
point  of  the  Kaiserstuhl.  We  may  descend  Yi&  the  stud-farm  of  Lilienthal 
to  (IV4  br)  Ihringen  (p.  384).  —  The  stations  on  the  N.  and  W.  branch 
are  more  interesting.  272  M*  Bndingen  (Hineh;  P/auen)^  a  small  town 
(2900  inhab.)  with  a  Rathhaos  of  the  16th  cent.,  is  a  good  starting-point 
for  a  walk  through  the  Eaiserstuhl-Gebirge.  From  (6  M.)  Scubach  (L5we) 
we  may  visit  (}/%  hr.)  the  extensive  ruin  of  Limbwg  (880  ft. ;  view),  the 
birthplace  of  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  (1218).  On  the  Rhine,  IV4  M.  from  (8  H.) 
JecJUinffen^  is  the  ruin  of  Sponeck.  9VsM.  Burlheim;  11  M.  Rothtceil;  13  M. 
Aehkarrmp  151/2  H.  BreUach  (p.  384). 

55  M.  KSndringen.  On  the  hill  (%hr.)  is  the  ruined  castle  of 
Landeek,  —  57  M.  Emmendingen  (Post,  very  fair;  Sonne) ,  with  two 
modern  churches.  Beyond  it,  on  a  hill  to  the  left,  are  (3  M.)  the  exten- 
sive ruins  of  the  Hoc^tif^,  dismantled  in  1689  by  order  of  Louis  XIY. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  canalized  Elz.  60  M.  Kollmarsreuthe. 
—  61  M.  Dentlingen;  branch-line  to  Elzach,  see  p.  411. 

The  Olotterbach  is  then  crossed,  the  pretty  wine-growing  valley 
of  which  extends  to  the  foot  of  the  Kandel.  —  Near  Freiburg  (left) 
stands  the  watch-tower  of  the  ruined  castle  of  Zahringen,  once  the 
seat  of  a  powerful  race,  which  became  extinct  in  1218  by  the  death  of 
Count  Berthold  V.   We  now  pass  a  large  prison  (left)  and  reach  — 

66  M.  Freiburg.  —  Hotels.  Near  the  Station:  *Zahbimqer  Hof  (PI.  a), 
opposite  the  station,  with  lift,  R.  d-6Vt,  B.  IV4,  D.  31/2,  pens,  from  8  j$; 
*HdTBL  DB  L^EuBOPs  (PI.  b),  a  few  min.  to  the  K.  of  the  station,  R.  21/3-4, 
B.  1V4)  D-  3,  pens.  T^/rS  jU;  HOtel  Victobia,  Eisenbahn-Str.  64,  next  door 
to  the  Post  Office,  very  fair;  Trescheb  zum  Pfaubn  (PI.  e),  Friedrich-Str.  61, 
at  the  comer  of  Bahnhof-Str.,  with  garden-restaurant,  R.  Vft^y  B.  1,  D.  1V2-3, 
pens,  from  67*  •^i  ^^^  t9ST\  Bahnhof-Hotbl,  Bismarck-Str.  3;  Salmen, 
comer  of  Berthold-Str.  and  Moltke-Str.,  R  IV4-2V2,  both  unpretending.  —  In 
the  Town:  *'Romi8chbb  Kaiseb  (PI.  h),  Kaiser-Str.  120',  Enokl  (PI.  c),  Engel- 
Str.,  near  the  Minster;  Hotel  Geist  (PI.  g),  opposite  the  W.  portal  of  the 
Hinster;  Rhbihisghbb  Hof  (PI.  i),  Miinster-Platz  15;  these  four  are  old- 
established  houses,  with  a  local  and  commercial  connection  (R.  from  U/2, 
B.  V4-I1  !>•  2-2V2  Jt).  Fbbibubobb  Hof,  Kaiser-Str.  130 ,  to  the  S.  of  the 
Martinsthor;  *HdTEL  Thomann,  at  the  corner  of  Belfort-Str.  and  Werder-Str., 
with  caf^-restaurant;  charges  at  these  two,  R.  from  li/tU^B.  80  pf.,  pens,  from 
6  J(.  *H5t.-Be8Taubant  Gass,  Garten-Str.  6,  R.  1V4-2,  B.  V4,  pens.  41/2^  Jf; 
H6t.-Rb8taubant  Hohbkzollebn,  Giintersthal-Str.  67,  B.  V/t-'dy  B.  */*,  pens. 
4-6  Jf.  —  The  following  are  unpretending:  Wildeb  Mann  (PI.  f),  Salz-Str.  80; 
Mabkobaflbb  Hof,  Gerberau  2i\  Breisqaueb  Hof,  Kaiser-Str.  137. 

Pensions.  Bellevue^  Giintersthal-Str.  69  (pens.  4V2-7Ulf);  UtZy  Friedrich- 
Str.  87  (4-7  J();  Zahn,  Zahringer-Str.  7  (4-6  Jt);  Beau^Si^our,  Werder-Str.  8 
(6-7  UT);  Rosenerk,  Fahnenberg-Platz  2  (R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens.  7-8  JT); 
Ott,  Friedrich-Str.  39  (41/2-6  Jf). 

Bettanrants  k  Cafis.  *Kop/^  Engel-Str.  5,  to  the  N.  of  the  Minster, 
with  old-German  drinking-room  and  garden,  D.  from  ly^Jf;  "Zum  Martini' 
thor,  dose  to  the  gate  of  the  same  name  (p.  382),  wine  upstairs,  beer  down- 


tJ78  Route  47.  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

stairs;  Alf«  Burse,  Bertbold-Str.  5-,  Wiener  Ca/4,  FranzUianer,  both  near 
the  war-monument;  *DUtseh'Hetterieh.  Sals-Str.  26;  RommeVs  Sehldaseken^ 
aboye  the  Schwabenthor  (view).  —  Wine:  *Briem^  Schiflf-Str.  5;  Hummel, 
Mdnster-Platz  22 ;  Bim,  Raiser-Str.  134.  —  Confectioner.  Wol^finger,  Kaiser-Str. 
—  Variety  Theatre,  Colosseum,  Belfort-Str. 

The  *Btadt-Oarten,  with  fine  grounds,  good  restaurant,  and  a  large 
hall  for  concerts,  is  a  favourite  summer-resort.  Annual  subscription  10  Jf  ; 
for  a  week  1,  for  6  weeks  3  jH,  one  day  20  pf.,  on  Sun.  free  after  1  p.m.; 
adm.  to  concerts  in  the  afternoon  and  evening,  30,  40,  60  pf. 

Baths  at  the  ^Marienbad,  Marien-Str.,  open  all  the  year.  Swimmimg 
Baths  on  the  Dreisam  and  at  the  Lorettoberg.  Special  'Bathers^  Trains* 
run  to  the  Rhine  Baths  at  the  bridge  of  Breisach  (p.  385). 

Gabs.  Per  V«  br.,  one-horse,  for  1-2  pers.  60,  3-4  pers.  1  Jt.  two-horse, 
70  pf..  1  Jt;  V«  hr.  1  ur,  1  Ur  50,  1  ur  40  pf..  or  2  J;  V*  hr.  1  UT  50  pf., 

2  ur,  2  ur,  2  ur  80  pf.;  i  hr.  2  ur,  2  ur  So,  2  ur  eo,  3  ur  40  pf.   From 

10  p.m.  (in  winter  9  p.m.)  to  6  a.m.,  double  fares.  —  To  the  Schlostberg 
(Kanonen- Plata),  one-horse  3V2-4,  two -horse  5-6  •#;  Loreito  2Jf-2JfeO, 
8  ur-3  Jf  80;  GUntersthal,  IV2-2,  2  UT  60-3  Ui^;  Kybbvrg,  2V2-8,  4-5  UT.  For 
a  tour  comprising  Loretto,  Waldsee,  Littenweiler,  Ebnet.  Earthaus,  8Uf; 
Schlossberg,  St.  Ottilien,  Earthaus,  9  Ji ;  Luisenhdhe,  Horben,  Bobrer, 
Giintersthal,  10.4^.  —  Luggage,  beyond  22  lbs.,  20  pf.  per  package. 

Electric  Tramways  (10  pf )  from  the  station  to  the  Schwarzwald-Str. 
(red  sigQ  C);  to  the  Wiehre  station  (white  sign  B),  changing  cars  at  the 
Eaiser-Str.  to  the  Eennweg,  on  the  K.,  and  Loretto-Str.,  on  the  S.  (yellow 
•sign  A);  to  the  Wonnhalde-Str.  (Bebhaus,  15  pf.)  and  Giintersthal  (20  pf.; 
.green  sign  D). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  14),  Eisenbahn-Strasse. 

United  States  Oommercial  Agent,  Mr.  E.  T.  Li^feld. 

English  Ohuroh  (S8.  George  is  Boniface),  Thumsee-Str.  59,  beyond  the 
Dreisam;  services  at  8  (H.  C),  11,  and  6  0.30  in  winter).  Chaplain:  Rev. 
L.  0.  Tuffwaiy  M.  A.,  Bromberg-Str.  86. 

Principal  Attractions.  The  traveller  should  follow  the  Eisenbahn-Str. 
from  the  station  through  the  town  as  far  as  the  Eaiser-Str.,  then  turn 
to  the  right,  follow  the  Salz-Str.  to  the  Schwabenthor.  and  ascend  the 
Schlossberg,  a  walk  of  25  minutes.  On  the  way  back  cross  the  Oarls-Platz 
to  the  Minster  and  Kau/haus  (exterior),  traverse  the  broad  Eaiser-Strasse 
(Fountains,  War  Monument,  Protestant  Church),  and  return  to  the  station 
by  the  Friedrich-Strasse.  The  best  ^Yiew  is  obtained  from  the  Lorettoberg 
by  evening-light  (cab  from  the  station  and  back  in  1-1  Vs  br.). 

Frcifturgr  (920  ft.),  situated  In  the  Breisgau,  11  M.  from  the 
Rhine,  vies  with  Baden  and  Heidelberg  In  the  beanty  of  its  en- 
virons. The  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest,  the  picturesque  hills 
in  the  vicinity ,  the  populous  and  fertile  plain ,  bounded  by  the 
vine-clad  Kaiserstuhl,  and  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Dreisam,  all 
combine  to  render  the  situation  highly  attractive. 

The  town  owes  its  origin  to  JHiie  Berthold  I  J.  of  Zdhringen,  who  found- 
ed it  about  1091.  and  it  remained  in  possession  of  his  successors  till  the 
line  became  extinct  in  1218.  For  over  400  years  Freiburg  belonged  to  the 
House  of  Hapsbnrg;  it  snfTered  much  in  the  Thirty  Tears^  War;  it  was 
taken  by  the  French  in  16T7,  fortified  by  Vauban,  and  confirmed  to  them 
by  the  Peace  of  Nymwegen  in  1678;  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck  in  1697  it 
was  given  back  to  Austria,  but  it  was  captured  by  Villars  in  1713,  after  an 
obstinate  defence.  It  was  again  restored  to  Austria  by  the  Peace  of  Rastatt 
in  1714,  plundered  and  to  a  great  extent  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1745, 
and  then,  after  the  destruction  of  the  fortifications,  once  more  made  over 
to  Austria  by  the  Peace  of  Aix-la-Ghapelle  in  1748.  The  Breisgaa,  a 
hereditary  possession  of  the  house  of  Austria,  of  which  Freiburg  was  the 
capital,  was  annexed  to  Baden  by  the  Peace  of  Pressburg  in  1806,  and  t|ie 
tow»  thus  restored  to  the  representatives  of  tjie  house  of  Zahringen, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


y  Google 


to  nau.  FREIBURG.  47.  Route.  379 

Freiburg  is  the  chief  city  of  the  upper  Rhenish  province  of 
Baden,  and  since  1456  has  heen  the  seat  of  a  university,  now 
attended  by  about  1800  students,  and  since  1827  of  an  archbishop. 
Population,  including  the  suburbs  of  Herdem  (N.),  Wiehre  and 
Guntersthal  (S.),  Haslach  and  Stuhlinger  (W.)«  about  61,500,  of 
whom  17,000  are  Protestants  and  1000  Jews.  Silk,  chicory,  pottery, 
buttons,  machinery,  etc.,  are  largely  manufactured  in  and  around  the 
town,  which  is  also  the  chief  market  for  the  productions  of  the  Black 
Forest.  The  streets  are  supplied  with  streams  of  pure  water  from 
the  Dreisam,  which  gives  them  an  agreeable  freshness  in  summer, 
and  the  town  is  surrounded  with  a  girdle  of  pretty  promenades 
and  villas.  Freiburg  Is  indeed  one  of  the  pleasantest  towns  in 
Germany,  and  its  inhabitants  have  long  been  noted  for  their  good- 
nature and  courtesy.  It  is  much  patronised  as  a  residence  by  retired 
North  German  officials. 

The  railway-station  is  connected  with  the  town  by  the  Eisbn- 
bahk-Stbassb,  which  passes  the  monument  of  Rottecky  the  historian 
(d.  1840;  PI.  3).  Crossing  the  Werder-Str.,  which  leads  to  the 
right  to  the  Alltfe-Garten  (p.  882) ,  and  the  Rotteck-Platz,  which 
diverges  to  the  left,  we  reach  the  Fbanziskanbb-Platz,  in  which 
stand  the  Gothic  Church  of  8t.  Martin  (F\.  11),  with  a  new  tower 
and  part  of  the  ancient  cloisters,  the  Rathhaus  (16th  cent.),  adorned 
with  frescoes,  and  the  quaint  Old  TJniversttyj  now  annexed  to  the 
Rathhaus.  The  relief  on  the  S.  oriel  window  of  the  last,  represent- 
ing a  unicom-hunt  (1643),  should  be  noticed.  In  the  centre  of  the 
square  is  a  statue  of  the  Franciscan  Berthold  Schwart  (PI.  4),  the 
alleged  inventor  of  gunpowder  (1330 ;  at  Freiburg),  as  the  reliefs 
indicate.  —  Close  by,  Berthold-Str.  17,  is  the  present  University y 
formerly  a  convent.    A  new  building  is  under  consideration. 

We  next  reach  the  broad  and  handsome  Kaisbb-Stbassb, 
which  intersects  the  town  from  N.  to  S.  In  the  centre  rises  an 
old  Fountain  of  the  late-Gothic  period,  embellished  with  a  num- 
ber of  old  and  modern  figures.  To  the  S.  of  it  is  a  modern  foun- 
tain, with  a  statue  of  Berthold  III.,  and  inscriptions  to  the  memory 
of  that  prince,  the  law-giver  of  Freiburg  (1120),  of  his  brother 
Conrad,  the  founder  of  the  Minster  (1123),  of  Archduke  Albert, 
the  founder  of  the  University,  and  of  Charles  Frederick  of  Baden, 
the  ^Nestor  of  princes*,  in  whose  honour  the  fountain-column  was 
erected  in  1807.  To  the  N.,  in  the  same  street,  is  another  modern 
fountain  (1868),  with  a  stetue  of  Archduke  Albert  VI.  —  No.  51, 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  street,  is  the  Easier  Hof,  now  a  government 
office,  with  a  handsome  frescoed  facade  of  the  15-16th  centuries.  — 
A  little  farther  on  is  the  War  Monument,  p.  382. 

The  Munster  -  Strasse  leads  straight  to  the  W.  portal  of  the 
Minster,  in  front  of  which  rise  three  lofty  Columns  (1719)  bearing 
statues  of  the  Virgin,  St.  Alexander,  apd  St,  Lambert,  its  patron* 

^^^^^^'  Dgtzed  by  Google 


380  BouU  47.  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

The  ^Cathedral  or  Xinstery  the  tower  of  which  is  the  earliest 
and  most  perfect  of  its  kind,  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic  build- 
ings in  Germany,  and  has  justly  been  admired  from  a  very  early  per- 
iod. The  church,  which  is  constructed  entirely  of  dark-red  sand- 
stone, was  begun  at  a  period  when  the  Gothic  style  had  not  as  yet 
become  naturalised  in  Germany.  We  accordingly  find  that  the 
transept  with  the  side-towers,  the  oldest  part  of  the  edifice,  dating 
from  the  12th  cent.,  is  in  the  Romanesque  style.  The  nave  was 
begun  before  1250 ,  and  the  difficulty  found  In  bringing  the  new 
Gothic  forms  into  harmony  with  the  older  style  Is  clearly  illustrated 
In  the  two  E.  bays,  adjoining  the  earlier  transept.  The  completion 
of  the  nave  (after  1260)  was  accomplished  by  some  younger  archi- 
tect of  marked  ability ,  who  also  added  the  final  stories  and  spires 
to  the  side-towers,  and  about  1270  began  the  main  tower,  which 
was  carried  above  the  bell-chamber  before  1301.  The  construction 
of  the  choir  was  begun  in  1354  by  Johannes  of  Omiindy  but  it  was 
not  completed  till  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.  (1513).  The 
Renaissance  portico  of  the  S.  transept  was  added  in  the  17  th 
century. 

The  most  artistic  part  of  the  whole  building  is  the  **Towery 
which  is  380  ft.  in  height.  The  three  bold  and  simple  stories  at  once 
reveal  their  structural  significance :  the  massive  square  basement, 
the  lofty  octagonal  bell-tower,  and  the  airy  pyramid  of  perforated 
masonry,  which  the  octagon,  both  in  form  and  ornamentation,  serves 
harmoniously  to  connect  with  the  square  base.  When  viewed  cor- 
nerwise  the  entire  tower  has  the  appearance  of  an  uninterrupted 
pyramid.  —  The  four  knightly  figures  on  the  buttresses  are  supposed 
to  be  the  last  members  of  the  Zahringen  family.  On  the  N.  but- 
tresses are  carved  standard-measures  for  loaves  of  bread,  bricks,  etc., 
along  with  the  dates,  the  earliest  of  which  is  1270. 

The  Portico  is  richly  adorned  with  allegorical  sculptures  of  vary- 
ing excellence ;  some  of  the  female  figures  are  specially  fine.  The 
colouring  was  renewed  in  the  17th  cent,  and  again  in  1879. 

On  the  Central  Pillar  of  the  portal  is  the  Madonna  and  Child;  on  the 
sides  are  represent  itions  of  the  Annunciation  and  Visitation  (right)  and 
Adoration  of  the  Magi  (left>,  also  of  Judaism  overthrown  (right)  and  the 
Church  triumphant  (left).  In  the  pediment  over  the  portal  is  pourtrayed 
the  farther  history  of  the  Saviour  down  to  his  return  at  the  Last  Day.  In 
the  niches  are  angels  and  Biblical  and  allegorical  figures.  —  On  the  right  of 
the  portico  are  the  Foolish  Virgins,  the  Seven  Liberal  Arts,  and  SS.  Catha- 
rine and  Margaret.  On  the  left  are  the  Wise  Virgins,  the  Heavenly  Bride- 
groom, Abraham,  John  the  Baptist,  Mary  Magdalen,  Zacharias  with  the 
angel ,  and  finally  Wantonness  (a  nude  female  form)  and  Worldliness  (a 
fashionable  youth,  with  a  rose-crowned  goblet). 

Among  the  other  sculptures  on  the  exterior  of  the  Minster  may  be  men- 
tioned a  Romanesque  bishop  at  the  S.  portal,  the  Death  of  the  Vii^n  above 
the  S.  choir-door,  and  the  Creation  (14th  cent.)   above  the  K.   choir-door. 

The"  *lNTBKioR  (354  ft.  long,  102  ft.  wide,  85ft.  high),  consisting 
of  nave  and  aisles,  transept,  choir,  and  ambulatory,  produces  an  im- 
pression of  greater  antiquity  than  the  contemporaneous  cathedral  of 

:«dbyGOO^, 


to  Bdle.  FREIBURG.  47.  Route.   381 

Strassburg ,  whicli  it  resembles  in  several  particulars  (e.g.  in  the 
fine  Tose-windows  inserted  in  square  frames  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
aisles).  The  progress  of  the  construction  (see  p.  380)  may  he  traced 
In  the  increasing  elegance ,  from  E.  to  W.,  of  the  capitals  in  the 
blind  arcades  of  the  aisles.  The  late-Gothic  choir  terminates  in  a 
wreath  of  chapels,  so  arranged  that  the  central  axis  of  the  cathedral 
is  occupied  by  a  pillar.  The  church  has  been  restored  since  1880. 
It  is  open  daily  after  9.30  a.m.  (the  sacristan ,  MUnster-Platz  29, 
admits  visitors  to  the  choir ;  fee  50  pf .). 

Navb.  On  the  central  column  of  the  portal  is  a  fine  early- Gothic 
Madonna  with  angels.  The  twelve  Apostles,  by  the  pillars,  are  somewhat 
rongh  specimens  of  sculpture.  The  Pulpit  y  executed  by  Jevg  Kemp/  in 
156ff  is  said  to  be  hewn  out  of  a  single  block  of  stone ;  the  portrait  of  the 
artist  is  introduced  under  the  steps.  —  The  arch  at  the  intersection  of 
the  nave  and  transept  is  embellished  with  a  fresco  by  L.  Seitt,  executed  in 
1877,  and  representing  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin. 

Aisles.  The  windows  contain  good  stained  glass,  chiefly  of  the  14th  cent., 
bat  largely  re*arranged  in  modern  times  and  patched  with  glass  from  other 
churches.  Two  of  the  windows  are  modem.  —  N.  Aisle  (left).  The  so- 
called  Grafen-Capelle ,  with  a  Mt.  of  OUves  by  /.  Kemp/  (1558) ,  had  no 
entrance  from  the  interior  of  the  cathedral  until  1829.  Tombs  witli  modem 
marble  statues  of  archbishops  of  Freiburg.  The  sculptured  groups  in  the 
Chapel  of  the  Eucharist  are  by  Xav.  Earner  (1805).  —  S.  Aisle.  To  the 
right  of  the  Sepulchral  Chapel  (lith  cent.;  exterior  1578)  is  the  tomb  of 
a  knight  (14th  cent.),  said  to  mark  the  grave  of  the  last  Zahringer  (p.  878). 

TsANSEPTs.  The  Renaissance  arcades,  removed  to  their  present  po- 
sition in  1789,  were  originally  erected  in  1580  by  H.  Bdringer^  as  screens 
between  the  choir  and  transepts.  The  carved  wood-work  of  the  side-altars 
is  old.  That  on  the  right  with  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  /.  Wydym 
(1505),  is  the  finest.  —  The  curious  Romanesque  frieze  with  scenes  frova. 
tiie  medieeval  bestiaries,  at  the  S.  entrance  to  the  ambulatory,  should  be 
noticed.  In  the  passage  is  a  Romanesque  relief  representing  Samuel  anoint- 
ing David. 

Ghoib.  On  the  wall  (right)  a  monument  of  General  de  Rodi  (d.  1743); 
on  the  left,  tombstones  of  a  ()ount  and  Countess  of  Freibui^  (14th  cent.) ; 
farther  on,  modem  statues  of  the  last  scions  of  the  Zahringen  family,  by 
Xcno.  Hauser  (19th  cent.).  —  The  "High-AUar-Pieee  is  the  chief  work  of 
Hant  Baldung  Orien  (1511-16):  in  the  centre,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  with 
the  Apostles  on  each  side ;  on  the  left  wing.  Annunciation  and  Visitation ;  on 
the  right  wing,  Kativity  and  Flight  into  Egypt ;  on  the  outside,  SS.  Jerome 
and  John  the  Baptist  (left)  and  SS.  Lawrence  and  George  (right).  On  the 
back  is  a  Crucifixion,  with  portraits  of  the  donors  and  painter  below. 

Choir  Chapels.  The  stained  glass  (first  half  of  the  l6th  cent.)  is  dam- 
aged ;  in  some  cases  the  originals  have  been  replaced  by  copies ,  and 
several  of  the  windows  are  entirely  modem.  —  1st  Chapel.    Winged  altar- 

Siece  (early  16th  cent.) :  in  the  centre  SS.  Augustine,  Anthony,  and  Rochus, 
S.  Sebastian  and  Christopher  on  the  wings;  as  antependium,  a  wall- 
tapestry  of  1501,  with  the  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds.  Other  portions  of 
this  tapestry  in  the  next  two  chapels.  —  2nd  (University)  Chapel.  *Holbein 
the  Younger y  Nativity,  and  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  painted  about  1520, 
brought  hither  from  Bale  after  the  Reformation ;  the  paintings  on  the  out- 
side are  of  later  date  and  little  value.  Next  to  it,  the  Portrait  of  Mich. 
KUblin,  dated  1600  (covered).  Near  it  are  memorial  stones  to  former  pro- 
fessors. The  second  or  Imperial  Chapel,  to  the  left  behind  the  high-altar, 
contains  the  remains  of  the  so-called  ^Snewlin  Altar-piece',  by  Hant  Baldung 
Orieny  with  the  Baptism  of  Christ  and  St.  John  in  Patmos.  —  The  next 
or  Bocklin  Ch{»>el  has  a  Romanesque  Crucifix  in  silver-gilt  (11th  cent.).  — 
The  Locherer  Chapel  contains  an  interesting  carved  altar-piece,  by  J.  Sixt 
(1524),  representing  the  Madonna,  with  her  protecting  robe  outspread,  an 
SS.  Anthony  and  Bernard. 


y  Google 


BLACK  FOREST.  48.  Route.   387 

10th.  By  the  Albstrasse  to  Albbruck  (p.  481);  railway  to  Wchr  (p.  427).  — 
11th.  Wehra-Thal  to  Todtmooaan  (p.  428),  via  Gersbach  to  Atzenbach 
(p.  426),  railway  to  Schonau  (p.  426).  —  12th.  Belchen  (p.  425),  Blauen, 
and  Badenweiler,  9  hrs.  (p.  420). 

The  Schwarzwald-Verein  (annual  subscription  5  Jf)  has  greatly  facil- 
itated pedestrian  excursions  throughout  the  entire  district,  by  making 
footpaths,  erecting  guide-posts,  etc.  The  so-called  Hohenwbg,  which 
runs  from  Pforzheim  (p.  358),  via  Wildbad  (p.  353),  Sand  (p.  889),  Hornis- 


grinde  (p.  890),  Bahstein  (p.  391),  Kniebis  (p.  399),  Hausach  (p.  401), 
Schonach  (p.  401),  Brend  (p.  409),  Thumer  (p.  413),  TiUsee  (p.  415),  Feld- 
berg  (p.  417),  Belchen  (p.  425),  Blauen  (p.  ^),   and  Kandern  (p.  423)  to 


Bale,  is  marked  throughout  by  a  red  parallelogram  on  a  white  ground. 
The  approach-routes,  e.g.  from  Baden-Baden  to  Sand,  are  marked  with  a 
blue  parallelogram  on  a  white  ground.  Oomp.  Bussaner't  'Der  Hohenweg 
von  Pforzheim  bis  Basel'  (Ferd.  Spies,  Baden-Baden,  50  pf.). 

Cyclists  find  excellent  roads,  not  only  in  the  valleys  but  also  in  the 
more  elevated  regions  of  the  Black  Forest,  though,  of  course,  the  gradients 
are  often  steep. 

The  most  complete  guidebook  to  the  Black  Forest  is  Schnar^s  Bchwarz- 
waldfUhrer  (Heidelberg  \  C.  Winter). 

Inns.  Gl^ood  inns  are  found  practically  everywhere.  Living,  even  in 
the  remotest  districts,  is  no  longer  so  remarkably  cheap  as  formerly;  the 
following  is  the  average  scale :  R.  IV2-2V2  UT,  B.  60  pf.  to  1  UT.  D.  IV2-2V2  UT, 
pens,  from  4  or  5  Ul.  In  engaging  rooms  beforehand  it  is  always  necessary 
to  follow  up  the  preliminary  letter  or  telegram  with  a  second,  definitely 
accepting  the  terms  offered  by  the  landlord. 

Of  all  the  wooded  districts  of  Germany,  none  presents  so  beau- 
tiful and  varied  landscapes  as  the  Blaclc  Forest  or  8chwarzwaldj 
especially  the  W.  portion,  belonging  to  Baden,  the  spurs  of  which 
decline  precipitously  towards  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  whilst  the  E. 
slopes  are  more  gradual.  The  Kinzig-Thal  (p.  400)  divides  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Black  Forest  into  two  portions,  which  are  also  distinct 
in  regard  to  their  geological  formation:  viz.  the  Lower  Black  Fobbst 
to  the  N. ,  consisting  chiefly  of  variegated  sandstone,  and  cul- 
minating in  the  Homisgrinde  (3825  ft. ;  p.  390) ;  and  the  Uppbb 
Black  Fobbst  to  the  S.,  in  which  granite  and  gneiss  predominate,  and 
of  which  the  Feldberg  (4000ft.;  p.  417),  the  Herzogenhom  (4650  ft.j 
p.  418j,  the  Belchen  (4640  ft.;  p.  425),  and  the  Bdrhalde  (4330  ft.) 
are  the  highest  mountains.  The  lower  heights  are  covered  with 
fragrant  pine-forests ;  at  about  3250  ft.  trees  become  sparser ;  and 
above  3950  ft.  grass  only  is  found.  The  populous  valleys  are  generally 
fertile  and  well  cultivated,  and  mineral  springs  are  numerous. 

The  staple  commodity  is  timber,  which  is  floated  down  the  prin- 
cipal streams  to  the  Rhine ,  where  larger  rafts  are  constructed  and 
navigated  to  Holland.  The  great  timber-merchants,  locally  called 
'Schiffer',  have  been  for  centuries  formed  into  the  so-called 
*Schiffer-Gesellschaften'  (p.  392),  whose  profits  are  divided  in  shares 
termed  'Stamme'.  Their  extensive  forests  are  known  as  'Schiffer- 
wald'  in  contradistinction  to  the  'Herrschaftliche  Wald*,  or  private 
property.  The  chief  branch  of  industry  in  the  Black  Forest  is  clock- 
making,  while  straw-hats,  brushes,  and  wooden  wares  are  also 
largely  manufactured.  In  this  prosperous  district  beggars  are  un- 
known.   In  some  of  the  remoter  valleys  the  women  still  wear  their 

25,t)Ogle 


388   Route  48,  HEREENALB.  Black  Forest. 

national  costume,  especially  on  Sundays.  To  German  scholars  the 
charms  of  the  Black  Forest  will  he  much  enhanced  hy  a  perusal  of 
the  Allemannische  Oediehte  of  Hebel, 

a.  From  CarlBruhe  and  Ettlingen  or  from  Oemsbach  to  Herrenalb. 

From  Garlsmbe,  16  M.,  Elbctbic  Railway  (Albthalbahn)  in  aboat  1V<  br. 
(fares  1  uT  TO,  2  U(^  60  pf. ;  from  Ettlingen  1  UT  20,  80  pf.). 

From  Gemsbach,  71/3  M.,  Dilioxkoe  twice  daily  in  summer  in  2  hrs. 
carriage-and-pair  12  Ji. 

The  Elbcjtmc  Ra.ilway,  starting  at  the  Mess-Platz,  near  the 
central  railway-station  (PI.  D,  3)  in  Oarlsruhe,  runs  vi^  Eupfur  to 
(5  M.)  Ettlingen  (p.  361),  where  it  enters  the  industrial  valley  of 
the  Alh.  —  From  (7  M.)  Busenback  a  branch-line  runs  vifi  Itters- 
hach  to  Pforzheim  (22  M.;  p.  353).  --  12  M.  MarxzeU,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Maisenhach.  —  13^2  M.  Frauenalb  (Klosterhof) ,  with  a 
convent,  founded  in  1138  and  suppressed  in  1803.  At  the  Stein- 
hausle  we  cross  the  boundary  of  Wurtemberg.  —  16  M.  Herrenalb. 

The  Bo  AD  FBOM  Gbbnsbach  (p.  391)  to  Hebbenalb  ascends  to 
the  N.E.,  crosses  the  Wurtemberg  boundary,  and  reaches  (3  M.) 
Loffenau  (1050  ft.;  Adler;  Stern),  a  long  village  with  a  new  red 
sandstone  church.  Thence  we  may  ascend  the  (1^/4  hr.)  Teufels- 
muhle  (2985  ft. ;  refuge-hut).  —  From  Loffenau  the  road  ascends  to 
the  (2V2  M.)  Kdppele  (1745  ft.),  shortly  before  which  a  finger-post 
indicates  the  way  to  the  (IV2  M.)  Heukopf  (2260  ft.),  commanding 
another  fine  view.  From  the  Kappele  to  Herrenalb  is  a  descent  of 
2V2  M.  A  considerable  saving  is  effected  by  the  footpath  which  di- 
verges to  the  left  (finger-post)  about  100  paces  beyond  the  church. 

Herrenalb.  —  Hotels.  *Gushaus  Hebbsnalb,  a  hydropathic  establish- 
ment, pens.  60-70  Ul  weekly  \  Gdb-Hotel  &  Sanatobidm  Huhhelsbdbo,  with 
baths,  pens,  from  Q  J( ;  Villa  Falkenstein,  pens.  6-8  Jf ;  HStbl  zub  Post, 
B.  '2-4,  pens.  51/2-8  J( ;  Sonne  ^  Bellevtje  ;  Stern  ;  K6bleb  Bbdnnen.  pens. 
6  J(,  very  fair.  —  Private  Apartments.  —  Visitors^  Tax^  8  j$  for  Mo  days, 
4  .4^  for  a  fortnight  or  more.  ConversationsJuttUj  with  reading  and  entertain- 
ment rooms,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Alb. 

Herrenalb  (1200  ft.),  a  village  with  1300  inhab.,  on  both  banks  of 
the  Alb,  is  frequented  on  account  of  its  equable  and  somewhat  moist 
climate.  The  once  celebrated  Benedictine  abbey,  founded  in  1148, 
was  destroyed  by  the  Swedes  in  1642.  The  church  contains  the 
tomb  of  the  Margrave  Bemhard  of  Baden  (d.  1431),  with  a  recum- 
bent figure.  In  the  churchyard  are  remains  of  cloisters  of  the  12th 
cent.,  with  tombs  of  the  abbots  and  a  portal  of  the  15th  century. 

Pleasant  walk  of  20  min.  to  the  Falkenstein  (1425  ft.),  a  huge  granite 
rock  rising  from  the  valley.  —  Other  excursions  may  be  made  vi&  the 
Eisswasen  (1850  ft.)  and  the  Oroue  Loch  (2540  ft.)  to  the  (2V4  hrs.)  refuge-hut 
on  the  TeufelsmUhU  (see  above);  to  the  S.E.  via  Qaisihal  to  the  (3V2  hrs.) 
ffohloh  (p.  354);   and  to  the  view-tower  on  the  Malberg  (2010  ft.),  etc. 

Fbom  Hebbbnalb  to  Wild  bad,  8  M.  The  road  runs  via  (3>/4  M.)  Dobei 
(Sonne,  pens,  from  4V2  »S;  Waldhorn;  extensive  view  from  the  Signai-^ 
2340  ft.,  V4  M.)  and  the  £yach-Milhle  (1570  ft.).  Shorter  footpaths  through 
the  woods.  —  Diligence  to  NeuenhUrgy  see  p.  853. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Black  Forest.  BUHLER-THAL.  48,  BouU.   38ft 

b.  From  Bfthl  through  the  B&hler-Thal  to  the  Sand  (Pl&ttig)  and 

Hundseok,  and  to  Allerheiligen  vi&  the  Homisgrinde  and  the 

Bnhstein. 

From  Biihl  to  Oberthca^  S»U  M.,  branch-railway  in  32  min.  (fares  45, 
30pf.)'>  thence  omnibus  every  morning  to  the  OertObacJi'Thal  (80  pf.),  WU' 
denfeUtn  (1  J(  80),  Sand  (2  J(  20),  and  Sundseek  (2  UT  60  pf.).  Families 
wiu  luggage  should  hire  from  Biihl  (or  even  from  Baden-Baden) :  to  the 
Wiedenfelsen  (2  hrs.)  14  Jf,  Sand  (2V2  hrs.)  16,  Plattig  16,  Hundseck  18  Jl. 
—  On  Foot  :  from  Oberthal  to  the  Sand  or  direct  to  the  Hundseck,  2V2  hrs.  \ 
ascent  of  the  Homisgrinde  from  the  Hundseck,  2*/4  hrs. ;  thence  to  Buh- 
stein  S-SVs  hrs.,  and  to  Allerheiligen  l*/4  hr.  more. 

Buhly  see  p.  374.  The  railway,  mainly  used  for  goods-traffic, 
ascends  the  industrial  Bfihler-Thal,  or  valley  of  the  Buhlott.   From 

fiy^  "M..)  Kappelwindeck  we  may  reach  the  ruin  ot  Alt-Windeck 
p.  374)  in  1  hr.,  vli  Biegel^  and  then  follow  paths  through  wood  to 
the  (2V4hr8.)  Hundseck  (p.  390).  —  21/2  M.  Altschweieri  3  M. 
Buhlerthal  (Griiner  Baum ;  Engel).  —  38/4  M.  Oberthal  (Badischer 
Hof ;  Wolf)  is  the  terminus. 

The  road  forks  here,  the  left  arm  leading  to  the  Schwanenwasen 
(2115  ft. ;  Cur-Hdiel,  R.  1-3,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  S.  IV2,  pens.  5-7  UT; 
omnibus  from  Baden-Baden  21/2  '^ y  p.  371),  the  right  to  the 
Sand  and  Plattig.  We  follow  the  latter.  About  1  M.  from  Ober- 
thal a  road  diverges  on  the  right  for  (IV2  M.)  Buchkopf,  a  summer- 
resort.  Farther  on,  on  the  right,  is  the  Schindelpeter  Inn,  and  to 
the  left  is  a  picturesqe  footpath  ascending  via  the  Falkenfela  and 
Fohrenfels  to  the  (li/4  hr.)  Plattig  (see  below).  The  road  continues 
to  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Wiedenbach,  and  beyond  a  sharp  curve 
(3  M.  from  Oberthal),  where  a  footpath  for  the  (40  min.)  Sand 
diverges  to  the  left,  makes  a  bend  and  reaches  the  *Curhau8  Wieden- 
felsen (2270  ft. ;  R.  from  2,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  6-8  UT),  which 
commands  a  beautiful  view  down  the  valley. 

Walkers  take  the  narrow  road  which  diverges  to  the  right  about  2V4  M. 
from  Oberthal  and  leads  in  20  min.  to  the  Waldhom  Inn,  at  the  month  of 
the  '^C^ertelbaoh-Schluoht.  An  easy  footpath  ascends  through  the  pictur- 
esque ravine,  at  the  (35  min.)  head  of  which  is  a  guide-post  indicating  the 
route  to  the  (40  min.)  Hundseck  (p.  390).  We,  however,  turn  to  the  left 
and  reach  the  (6  min.)  road,  V«  M.  from  the  Gurhaus  Wiedenfelsen. 

About  V4  M.  beyond  the  Curhaus  the  road  again  curves  to  the 
N.  (to  the  right  is  the  above-mentioned  path  to  the  Gertelbach- 
Schlucht),  and,  after  passing  the  Bdrenfels  (Sohwarzwald  Hotel, 
pens,  from  6  •#),  it  reaches  its  highest  point  (2715  ft.)  at  the 
Sand  (41/3  M.  from  Oberthal,  IV2  M.  from  Wiedenfelsen).  The 
*Inn  am  Sand  (R.  2-6,  D.  3,  pens.  6V2-IO  uT),  the  oldest  of  the 
many  summer-resorts  in  this  part  of  the  Black  Forest,  is  situated 
at  the  intersection  of  the  roads  from  the  Buhler-Thal  to  the  Murg- 
thal  and  from  Baden  to  the  Hundseck  viH  the  Plattig.  —  About 
1  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  Plattig  (*  WeissU  Hotel,  pens.  51/2-^  •^)»  known 
also  as  Ober-Plattig  to  distinguish  it  from  Unter-Pldttig,  a  forester's 
houie  V2  M.  to  the  N.E.  Hence  to  Baden-Baden  via  the  Gerolsau 
Waterfall,  see  p.  371.  Digitized  by  Goog 


390  BouU48.  HUNDSEOK.  Black  Forest. 

On  the  Muigtbal  road,  IV2  ^*  to  the  E.  of  the  Sand,  lies  the 
small  village  of  Herrenwies  (2490  ft. ;  Auerhahnj  R.  1V2>  D.  21/2, 
S.  IVa-^)  pens,  from  5  ujf),  in  an  upland  plain  watered  by  the 
Schwarxenbach.  The  road  descends  the  valley  of  that  stream  to  (6  M.) 
Raumun%(tch  (p.  393). 

The  road  leading  to  the  S.  from  the  Sand  passes  the  (II/2  M.) 
Hundseok  (2900  ft. ;  *Curhau3,  R.  2-4,  D.  3,  board  41/2 -^T),  on  the 
road  leading  from  Buhl  vii  the  Windeck  to  Hundsbach  (Curhaus, 
unpretending)  and  the  Raumiinzach-Thal. 

Pleasant  forest-paths  radiate  from  all  these  summer-resorts.  From  the 
Plattig  and  the  Sand  we  may  ascend  in  1  hr.  (less  from  Herrenwies)  to  the 
tower  (100  ft.  high)  on  the  Badener  H5he  (3310  ft.),  which  commands  a 
most  extensive  panorama.  We  may  then  descend  to  the  K.,  via  the  Neu- 
hatu  and  the  falls  of  the  Orimbaeh,  to  (l*/*  hr.)  the  Oerolsau  Fall  Op-  370) ; 
or  via  the  Scherrhof  to  Lichtenthal  (p.  369)  \  or,  skirting  the  Seekopf  (3^90  ft.), 
we  may  proceed  to  the  E.  to  the  Herrentcieser  See  (2720  ft.)  and  return  to 
the  S.W.  along  the  slope  to  (2V2  hrs.)  Herrenwies.  —  The  Hehlitkopf 
(3350  ft.  •,  view-tower)  may  be  ascended  from  the  Sand  or  the  Hundseck  in 
'/«  hr. ;  and  the  Hohe  Ochsenkopf  (3460  ft. ;  view)  in  1  hr.  from  Herrenwies. 

From  the  road  to  Buhl  vi&  the  Windeck  the  'Hohenweg'  (p.  387) 
diverges  opposite  the  Hundseck  Curhaus  and  leads  in  50  min.  to 
the  cross-roads  at  the  Vnterstmatt  (3050  ft. ;  stone  hut).  A  guide- 
post  here  indicates  the  routes  to  Breitenbrunnen  and  Achern  (right) 
and  (straight  on)  to  the  Hornisgrinde  (2*/2M. ;  after  y2hr.,  we  diverge 
to  the  right  from  the  road;  footpath  to  the  tower,  1/2  hr.  more).  The 
route  vi&  Breitenbrunnen  (2665  ft.;  *Huber'8  Inn,  R.  1-3,  board 
41/2  Jf)i  a  summer-resort  1 V2  M.  to  the  S.W.,  on  the  road  to  Achern 
(8  M. ;  carr.  10-14  UJf),  is  not  much  longer  than  the  direct  route. 
We  follow  the  cart-road,  immediately  to  the  left  of  the  inn,  cross  the 
(20  min.)  bed  of  a  torrent  (usually  dry),  and  In  40  min.  more  reach 
the  summit  of  the  Hornisgrinde. 

The  bare  and  marshy  summit  of  the  HomiBgrinde  (3825  ft),  on 
which  is  a  tower,  22  ft.  in  height,  is  the  highest  point  in  the  N. 
portion  of  the  Black  Forest.  The  view  is  extensive,  but  frequently 
shrouded  in  mist :  to  the  E.  the  Swabian  Alb  and  the  cones  of  the 
Hohgau ;  S.  the  heights  of  the  Black  Forest,  and  beyond  them  even 
theAlps(comp.p.417);  S.W.  the  Kaiserstuhl  (p.  377)  and  Vosges; 
W.  the  vast  plain  of  the  Rhine ;  nearly  opposite  rises  the  spire  of 
Strassburg  Minster,  and  on  a  mountain  in  the  foreground  the  exten- 
sive ruins  of  the  Brigittenschloss  (p.  375) ;  N.  the  mountains  around 
Baden.    Guide-posts  indicate  the  numerous  routes  from  this  point. 

Fbom  the  Hobnisgbindb  to  Allbbhbiliobn  (4  hrs. ;  yit  the 
Hohenweg,  p.  387).  The  path  descends  in  windings  to  the  S.  to 
(20min.)  the  Mnmmelsee  (3385  ft.),  a  gloomy  little  lake,  surrounded 
by  pine-clad  mountains,  and  popularly  believed  to  be  inhabited  by 
water-sprites  (Mummelchen).  By  the  Setback^  the  brook  issuing  from 
the  lake  on  the  S.,  is  an  *Inn  (pens.  41/2-6  Jf), 

From  the  Hummelsee  we  may  descend  in  >/«-!  hr.  to  the  Wolfthrvmrim 
Inn  on  the  Ottenhofen  and  Ruhstein  road  (p.  395).  (^onolp 


Black  Forest.  RUflSTElN.  48.  Route.    391 

Following  the  new  road,  we  reach  in  1/2  hr.  the  two  huts  on  the 
mountain-saddle  at  the  Eckle  (3140  ft.),  on  the  road  from  Schon- 
munzach  to  the  Mummelsee.  A  stone  here  marks  the  boundary 
between  Wurtemberg  and  Baden.  Numerous  guide-posts.  Our 
route  leads  to  the  S.,  skirting  the  8chwarzenkopf  (3530  ft.)  and  the 
AlteSteigerskopfi^h^^tt:),  to(lhr.)  a  refuge-hut  (3350  ft.),  360  ft. 
aboTe  the  picturesque  and  isolated  Wildite.  (Comp.  also  Map, 
p.  396.)  After  1/4  hr.  more  we  cross  a  broader  path  and  follow  the 
footpath  straight  on  through  wood  to  (1  M.  farther)  — 

BHhstein  (3005  ft. ;  "Klumw's  Irm,  R.  21/2,  pens.  5-6V2  UJT), 
situated  at  the  highest  point  of  the  road  from  Achern  to  the  Murg- 
thal  (p.  394),  on  the  saddle  between  the  Alte  Steigerskopf  and  the 
Vogelskopf,  6  M.  from  Ottenhofen,  10V2  M.  from  Baiersbronn,  and 
I6V2  M.  from  Freudenstadt  (p.  408;  diligence  dally  in  summer). 

The  Hohenweg  (p.  387)  ascends  from  Buhstein  to  the  Vogelskopf^  then 
follows  the  frontier  to  the  (IV2  hr.)  ScUiffhopf  (p.  39(0,  and  in  another 
IV2  hr.  reaches  the  ZuflucU  (p.  397). 

From  Ruhstbin  to  Allbbheiliobn,  I1/2  ^r.  We  follow  the  road 
to  the  W.,  cross  the  boundary  in  a  few  minutes,  ascend  the  broad 
carriage-road  to  the  left,  for  8  min.,  take  the  footpath  to  the  left, 
and  in  6  min.  reach  a  fork.  We  avoid  the  path  to  the  left  ('Aller- 
heiligen  6.4  km.')  and  follow  the  easier  path  to  the  right  (*Aller- 
heiligen  7.1  km.'),  which  skirts  the  Afcifterd/fop/"  (3340  ft.)  and  joins 
the  (3/4  hr.)  Ruhstein  road  a  little  short  of  its  junction  with  the  road 
from  Ottenhofen  (p.  395).  From  the  junction  a  shortcut,  to  the  right, 
crossing  the  road  twice,  leads  to  Allerheiligen  (p.  396)  in  1/2  hr. 

0.    The  Mnrgthal  from  Bastatt  to  Baiersbronn  and  thence  to 
Erendenstadt.    Erom  Schonmunzach  to  the  Homisgirinde. 

From  Bastatt  to  Weisenhach^  13  M.,  Bailwat  in  1^/2  hr.  (fares  1  Ul(  60, 
1  jU  10  pf.).  —  BoAD  from  Welsenbach  to  SchSnmUmach^  11  M.  (diligence 
twice  daily  in  3  hrs.) ;  thence  to  Baiersbronn^  8V2  M.  (diligence  twice  daily 
in  2V3  hr8.)i  and  thence  to  Ruhstein  lO'/a  M.  (diligence  daily  from  June  1st 
to  Sept.  15th).  —  Ascent  of  the  Homisgrinde  from  Schdnmiinzach  on  foot 
41/2  hrs.;  thence  to  Allerheiligen  viS,  Buhstein  4  hrs.  (8V2-9  hrs.  in  all). 

Bastatt,  see  p.  361 .  The  railway  ascends  the  right  bank  of  the 
Murg.  —  2V2  M.  Kuppenheim  (Ochs),  a  small  town  with  2000  in- 
hab.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Murg,  which  is  here  spanned  by  an 
iron  bridge.    The  Favorite  (p.  372)  lies  1  M.  to  the  S.W. 

The  TaUey  now  begins  to  contract.  —  5  M.  Bothenfels,  with  a 
small  chateau  of  Princess  Sophia  of  Lippe-Detmold  and  a  mineral 
spring  (*Bath  House,  pens.  5-6  Jf).  —  61/4  M.  Qaggenau  (Griiner 
Hof),  with  considerable  iron-works ;  8  M.  Eordten. 

10  M.  Oemsbach.  —  Railway  Station  below  the  town,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Murg.  —  Hotels.  Ppeiffkb's  Bad-H6tel,  near  the  station 
of  Soheucrn  (p.  892),  with  garden  and  baths  of  all  kinds,  B.  2-3,  pens. 
5V2-8  J(.  —  GoLDENKB  Stebn,  B.  from  IV2,  B.  3/4,  D.  2V2,  pens,  from  vhJf; 
Krone,  B.  1-2,  pens.  3V2-4  Ul ;  these  two  in  the  town.  —  Lowe,  B.  1V«-2, 
pens.  ir6  Jl;  Wildeb  Mann,  near  the  station,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 


392    RouU48.  GERNSBACU.  Black  Foretl, 

Hurg,  witb  large  beer-gardfen.  —  Lodgings  obtained  by  application  to  the 
'Cu»-Comit^\  Bleicb-Str.  7. 

Oarriaget  (no  tari£f,  preyions  arrangement  recommended).  To  or  from 
the  station,  with  two  horses  V/ty  witb  one  horse  ijft  per  hr.  i  or  8  Ul,  each 
additional  l^  hr.  60  or  80  pf.  —  To  Scbloss  Eberstem,  with  two  horses 
6  Ul,  with  one  horse  i  Jf;  to  Baden  direct,  9  otI  M;  to  Baden  yi&  Scbloss 
Eberstein,  12  or  8  UT;  to  Herrenalb,  18  or  12  UT;  to  Wildbad,  80  or  20  UT; 
to  Baamiinzacb,  17  or  11  Jl. 

Oemsbach  (525  ft.l  on  the  Murg,  is  an  ancient  and  thriving 
little  town,  with  2700lnhab.,  and  frequented  as  a  summer  resi- 
dence. It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  'Murgthal  -  Schiffei  -  Gesell- 
schaft',  a  company  which  has  existed  for  centuries  and  owns  16,000 
acres  of  forest  (comp.  p.  387).  The  Rathhaus,  with  its  corner-oriel, 
built  in  1617,  is  a  good  example  of  the  Renaissance  style.  The  Prot- 
estant Church  contains  the  tombs  of  several  Counts  of  Eberstein. 

From  Gernsbach  to  Herrmalb^  see  p.  388.  The  attractive  ascent  C^/a  hrs.) 
of  the  Teu/eUmUhle  (p.  388)  may  also  be  made  from  the  station  of  Scheuem 
(see  below)  via  the  Fechtenbuckel  or  via  Schenem  and  the  Bockertfels. 

From  the  road  ascending  the  valley  of  the  Murg  (p.  373),  at  the 
upper  end  of  Gernsbach,  a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  (I1/2  M.) 
*8ehl088  Ebenitein  (1015ft.),  founded  in  the  13th  cent.,  afterwards 
destroyed,  and  in  1798  rebuilt  under  the  name  of  ^  Neu-Eber8tein\ 
Pedestrians  may  choose  the  path  diverging  from  the  road  5  min. 
farther  on,  at  the  Klingel-CaptUe,  and  ascend  by  the  cliff  of  (?ra/<en- 
sprung  (view  -  temple).  The  castle  is  delightfully  situated  on  a 
wooded  eminence,  high  above  the  Murg,  and  commands  a  beautiful 
and  extensive  view.  It  contains  ancient  relics,  weapons,  armour, 
paintings,  etc. 

A  footpath  descends  to  the  S.  from  the  castle  to  Obertsroth  (see  below). 
—  Pedestrians  may  reach  Baden  from  Scbloss  Eberstein  in  2^4  hrs.  by 
the  road  mentioned  at  p.  373,  vi&  Hiillenbild,  Oberbeaem,  and  Lichten- 
thal.    Carriages  take  IV2  hr.    The  road  leads  through  fine  wooda. 

The  Railway  next  reaches  the  stations  of  (IO1/2  M.)  Scheuem 
(Stern;  Auerhahn),  Obertsroth  (11  M.;  Blume,  very  fair,  pens. 
5-7  Ji\  the  village  of  which  name  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Murg, 
and  (12  M.)  HilpertsaUy  on  the  right  bank,  to  which  also  the  high- 
road here  crosses.  —  12 Y2  M.  ReicherUhaler-Strasse  is  the  station 
for  the  village  of  Beichenthal  (1330  ft ;  Auerhahn),  ^Va  M.  to  the  E. 

A  pleasant  road  leads  from  Reichenthal  vil,  the  shooting-lodge  of 
Kaltenbrorm  (p.  354)  and  past  the  Hohloh  (3245  ft.  \  view-stage),  on  the  right, 
to  (5V2-6  hrs.)  WUdbad  (comp.  p.  354).  The  footpath  vil  the  Hoi-nberg  and 
the  Bornsee  (2975  ft.)  is  shorter. 

13  M.  Weisenbaoh  (635  ft. ;  Oriiner  Baum^  pens.  4  JK),  with  a 
modern  Gothic  church,  saw-mills,  etc.,  Is  the  terminus  of  the  railway. 

The  High  Road  (diligence,  see  p.  391)  follows  the  right  bank 
of  the  Murg,  the  valley  of  which,  as  far  as  Schonmiinzach,  Is  wild 
and  beautiful.  Pedestrians  are  recommended  to  take  the  picturesque 
path  ou  the  left  bank.  The  rocks  are  granite.  The  brown  stream 
flows  at  the  foot  of  the  valley  amid  grey  rocks  and  green  meadows, 
while  the  slopes  are  richly  wooded  with  pines,  flrs,  and  a  few 
beeches.    The  hamlet  of  Au  lies  picturesquely  on  thj^  left  bank. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Black  Forest.  FORBAOH.  48.  Route.   393 

The  valley  becomes  narrower  and  wilder.  Beyond  a  large  wood- 
pulp  and  paper  mill  we  reach  (l^/i  M.  from  Weisenbach)  Langen- 
ftrand  (870  ft.;  Ochs).  Tnnnel.  2V2  M.  Oausbach  (1000  tt.  \  Wald- 
horn,  very  fair).   Near  (8/4  M.)  Forbach  the  road  crosses  the  Murg. 

6  M.  (from  Weisenbach)  Forbaoh  (1090  ft ;  *Oruner  Hof,  near 
the  new  bridge ;  Krone  or  Pott^  farther  on ;  Friedrichshofj  new),  a 
thriving  village  (1600  Inhab.),  with  a  picturesque  Romanesque 
church  on  a  hill  (1889),  is  the  finest  point  in  the  valley. 

The  DiBSOT  BotT£  FKOM  Badek  to  Fobbaoh  (13  M.)  follows  the  high- 
road at  the  Piscicultural  Establishment  (p.  370;  4Vs  M.  from  the  Con- 
versationshaus  in  Baden)  to  Oh  ^O  Oaisbach  and  (IV4  M.)  Schmalbach 
(1325  ft.)f  beyond  which  we  take  the  path  through  the  woods,  indicated 
by  finger-posts,  surmounting  the  Roihelache  (2290  ft. ;  refuge-hut),  to  (4V2  M.) 
Bermersbaeh  (1360  ft.).  We  may  now  either  ascend  to  the  right  at  the 
second  fountain  in  the  village,  or  proceed  to  the  inn  (Blume,  fair)  Deyond 
the  church,  and  thence  follow  the  path  through  the  woods  (the  villagers 
will  show  the  beginning  of  the  path)  to  (I1/4  M.)  Forbach. 

FsoM  FoBBAGH  TO  Hebbbmwibs,  3  hrs.,  via  the  *Hohenweg*  (p.  887). 
About  V«  M.  above  Forbach  we  leave  the  road  for  the  zigzag  path  to  the 
right,  which  ascends  through  fine  woods  to  (2V2  bi's.)  the  Herrenwieser  See 
(p.  390),  and  thence  in  >/«  hr.  to  the  Badener  Hohe  (p.  390).  —  Via  the 
HoKhh  and  KaUenbronn  to  WUdbad^  see  p.  354. 

Beyond  Forbach  the  Murgthal,  although  more  secluded,  con- 
tinues grand  and  beautiful,  especially  when  viewed  downstream  at 
the  saw-mills  on  the  Holderbach,  ly^M.  from  Forbach.  About 
2V2  M.  farther  on,  at  the  village  of  Raumiinzach  (1305  ft. ;  Griiner 
Baum),  the  river  of  that  name  falls  into  the  Murg. 

About  1/2  M.  above  the  confluence  the  Baumtinzach  is  augmented  by  the 
Schwartbaoh^  which  forms  a  picturesque  waterfall  below  the  ^Fallbriicke\  — 
Hundtbach  (p.  390)  lies  2  hrs.  farther  up  the  valley  of  the  Baumtinzach. 

A  road  leads  through  the  valley  of  the  Schwarzbach  to  (5V2  M.)  Herren- 
wiet  (p.  390). 

6M.  (from  Forbach)  Schonmunzaoh  (1496ft. ;  Post,  R.  1  V4-^V2, 
D.  ^2V2  Jf,  very  fair;  Waldhom,  R.  1-3,  pens.  4-6  JK ;  Schiff, 
unpretending),  the  first  village  in  Wurtemberg,  contains  glass- 
works, and  is  a  favourite  summer-resort.  The  Schonmunzach  falls 
into  the  Murg  here.  To  the  Hornisgrinde,  see  p.  394.  Numerous 
walks  in  the  woods.  Carriage  to  the  Eckle  14,  to  Ottenhofen  20, 
to  Allerheiligen  28  Jf. 

A  woodland-path  diverging  after  7  min.  from  a  road  to  the  right,  about 
V4  M.  above  Schonmiinsach,  ascends  to  the  (40  min.)  ScMou  /nn,  on  the 
site  of  the  former  castle  ofBauenfels  (view).  Thence  a  footpath  descends 
to  the  (V4  hr.)  Saw  JWW,  beyond  which  we  have  another  fine  view.  — 
Among  the  hills  to  the  W  lies  the  (1  hr.)  secluded  Sehurm-See  (2590  ft.). 
Thence  to  Hwndsbach  (p.  390),  IV2  hr. 

The  Murg,  IY4  M.  beyond  Schonmiinzach ,  penetrates  a  preci- 
pitous wall  of  rock,  beyond  which  the  valley  loses  its  wild  character, 
as  granite  gives  place  to  gneiss.  On  the  height  to  the  left  lies  Schwar- 
zehberg.  For  about  1  M.  the  road  runs  among  the  houses  of  Hutzen- 
bach  (Bar;  Krone).  From  (1 Y4  M.)  Schdnengriind  (inn)  a  road  leads 
to  the  N.  by  Besenfeld,  Vrnagold,  and  Oompelscheuer  to  (IO72  M.)  Enr 
klosterle  (Waldhorn),  and  through  the  Enzthal  to  Wildbad  (p.  353 


394    Route  48.  BATERSBRONN.  Black  Foreii, 

The  next  village  in  the  Murgthal  is  (6^/4  M.  from  Schon- 
miinzach)  Kloster-Beichenbacli  (1705  ft. ;  Sofwie,  very  fair),  with 
a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey,  founded  in  1082 ;  the  church  (re- 
stored) is  a  flat-roofed  Romanesque  basilica  with  a  portico. 

From  Klostei-Reichenbach  a  branch-railway,  partly  on  the  rack- 
and-pinion  system,  ascends  the  Murgthal  to  (2  M.)  Baiersbronn,  a 
little  below  the  village  of  that  name  (1910  ft. ;  Ochi)^  situated  on 
the  old  road.  Thence  it  proceeds  up  the  valley  of  the  Forbach^ 
passing  the  (4^2  M.)  foundries  of  Friedrich$thal  and  Chrigtophsthal^ 
to  (IIV2  M.)  Freudenatadt  (p.  408). 

The  MnBGTHAi.  Boad  (comp.  Map,  p.  398)  first  follows  the  branch-line 
just  mentioned,  crosses  (iV«  M.  from  Eloster-Beichenbach)  the  Murg,  and 
ascends  the  left  bank,  leaving  on  the  left  the  Baiersbronn  road,  which 
diverges  at  the  conilaence  of  the  Forbach.  About  iVa  M.  from  Beichenbach, 
at  the  straggling  village  of  Mittelthai  (Tannenburg,  pens.  373-4  Ul,  very  fair; 
Lamm),  a  road  leads  to  the  left  by  the  Elbach-Thal  to  the  (4V2  M.)  RoitbUM^ 
joining  the  road  described  at  p.  398,  near  the  Schwedenschanze.  About 
11/2  M.  farther  up  the  Margthal,  into  which  several  brooks  descend  from 
the  Eniebis,  are  the  Schwan  Inn  and  the  hamlet  of  Tannenfdt^  in  the 
woods  opposite  which  is  the  ruin  of  that  name.  We  now  soon  reach  the 
first  houses  of  OberthcU  (Sonne;  Adler,  both  very  fair),  whence  a  road 
leads  to  the  left  through  the  valley  of  the  Rechte  Mury  to  (i'/jM.)  BvMhach 
(2060ft.;  Inn  zur  Glashiitte,  very  fair;  omn.  thus  far  from  Baiersbronn) 
and  thence  through  wood  to  the  (4V«  M.)  Bossbiihl  (p.  398). 

The  road  in  the  Murgthal  continues  to  ascend,  forming  long  windings, 
to  its  highest  point  at  the  (6  M.)  Ruhttein  (p.  384). 


Fbom  SohonmOnzach  to  thb  Hobnisgbindb.  Two  roads  ascend 
the  8chbnmun%(i6h ^  the  Baden  road  on  the  left  bank,  and  the 
Wurtemberg  road  on  the  right.  Following  the  latter,  which  diverges 
at  the  Schifif  Inn,  beyond  the  bridge,  we  reach  (3  M.)  Zwickgabel 
(inn),  cross  the  brook,  and  ascend  to  the  right  along  the  Langen- 
bachj  which  unites  at  Zwickgabel  with  the  Schonmiinzach.  The 
road  then  passes  (IV2  M.)  Vorder-Liangenbach ^  and  at  (2^4  M.) 
Hinter-Langeribach  (Auerhahn,  kept  by  the  forester,  R.  l-lYiUJ^, 
B.  50-70  pf.)  ascends  to  the  left.  About  1/4  M.  farther  on  is  a  way- 
post,  indicating  the  route  to  the  (3^2  M.)  Wildsee  (p.  391)  and 
(12  M.)  AUerheiligen.  The  road  now  ascends  more  rapidly  to  the 
(3  M.)  Eckle  (p.  391),  on  the  frontier  of  Baden,  beyond  which  it 
descends  to  the  road  from  Baiersbronn  to  Ruhstein  and  Ottenhofen, 
which  it  reaches  beside  the  (2^/4  M.)  Wolfsbrunnen  Inn  (p.  390). 

The  Hornisgrinde  may  be  ascended  from  the  Eckle  either  by  a 
route  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  last-mentioned  road  and  pass- 
ing the  Mummelsee  (p.  390 ;  1^/4-2  hrs.),  or  by  a  route  beginning 
opposite  the  log-cabins  and  following  the  boundary-stones  to  the 
N.W.  The  latter  path  leads  past  the  (1/2  br.)  Drei-FOratensUin,  a 
large  block  of  sandstone  bearing  the  arms  of  Baden  and  Wurtem- 
berg, about  1  hr.  below  the  tower  on  the  Hornisgrinde  (p.  390). 


y  Google 


Black  Forest,  OTTENHOFEN.  48.  Route.    395 


d.  From  Achem  vifc  Ottenhofen  to  the  Buhstein  or  Allerheiligen. 

From  Achern  to  OttmM/m^  6^/4  M.,  Bailwat  in  40  min.  (fares  86, 
56  pf.).  —  Thence  on  foot  to  AlUrhkUgen^  I'A'SV^  l»rs. ;  from  Allerheiligen 
to  Oppenau  3Vs  brs.,  to  Rippoldsau  6  hrs. 

Achem^  see  p.  374.  The  railway  ascends  the  Kappeler-Thaly  a 
pleasant  green  dale  watered  l)y  the  AcJier  (to  the  left  on  the  hill,  the 
Brigitten$chlo88,  p.  375).  —  1^/4  M.  Oberachem.  —  4V2  M.  Kappelr- 
rodeek  (725  ft. ;  Erbprinz ;  Lowe),  commanded  by  the  chateau  of 
Rodeek  (965  ft.),  dating  as  far  back  as  the  8th  cent. ,  and  recently 
altered  and  restored,  with  fine  grounds  and  views  (for  adm.  apply 
to  the  gardener). 

Fbom  Kappslbodbck  to  Allekheiliqem,  iVa  hrs.,  by  a  path  through 
wood,  commanding  fine  viewn.  This  route,  steep  at  first,  lead.^  under  the 
chateau  of  Rodeek  to  (V2-V4  hr.)  the  wooden  tower  on  the  Kd/ertealdkopf 
(1590  ft.-,  view),  the  rocks  of  the  (V«  hr.  farther)  Bilrstensiein,  and  (2  hrs.) 
the  Mlerheiligentteiff^  which  begins  at  Lautenbach.  Thence  we  follow  the . 
ridge  vi&  the  SohWerg  (p.  396). 

63/4  M.  Ottenhdfen  (1020  ft.;  Linde;  Engel;  Pflug;  Wagen, 
R.  1-11/2,  B.3/4,  D.  11/2-2,  pens.  31/4-41/2  UiT;  all  highly  spoken  of), 
the  terminus  oif  the  railway,  a  prettily-situated  village,  forming 
suitable  headquarters  for  a  number  of  pleasant  excursions.  The  road 
forks  here,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Seebach  and  the  Ruhstein,  the 
right  to  Allerheiligen. 

The  Road  fbom  Ottenh5fbn  to  the  Ruhstein  (Baiersbronn) 
continues  to  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Acher,  crossing  to  the  left 
bank  by  the  Hagen-Bmeke^  below  the  Boiemtein.  From  the  hamlet 
of  Vofder'Stehach  (1280  ft. ;  Hirsch)  a  road  leads  to  the  left  through 
the  wooded  Orimmerawalder  ~  Thai  to  (41/2  M.)  Breitenbrunneu 
(p.  390).  From  the  Adler  Inn  at  Hinter-Seebacli,  a  little  farther 
on,  a  steep  path  leads  past  the  Schergen-Fels  to  (274  hrs.)  Aller- 
heiligen, the  last  part  of  the  way  being  on  the  Ruhstein  road.  Our 
road  turns  to  the  left  at  Achert,  3  M.  fi'om  OttenhSfen  (the  steep 
old  road,  4  M.  to  Ruhstein,  keeps  to  the  right),  crosses  the  Acher, 
and  11/4  M.  farther  on  reaches  the  Wolfsbrunnen  Inn  (2200  ft.; 
to  the  Mummelsee  1  hr. ;  see  p.  390 ;  guide-post).  Thence  it  ascends 
In  long  curves,  commanding  extensive  views,  to  the  (28/4 M.)  Ruh- 
stein (p.  391). 

The  Road  fbom  Ottbnhofbn  to  Allbbheiligbn  (6  M.)  ascends 
the  Vnterwasser-Thal  towards  the  S.  to  the  (21/4  M.)  Erbprinz  Inn, 
Here  the  new  road  describes  a  wide  curve  in  the  vaUey  towards  the 
left,  while  the  old  road  ascends  the  steep  slope  on  the  right,  on 
the  summit  of  which  the  roads  again  unite.  Fine  retrospective 
views  from  the  new  road;  II/2  M.  from  the  Erbprinz  a  way- post 
indicates  the  way  to  the  Edelfrauengrab  by  Blochereck  (see  below). 
From  the  top  of  the  hill  (from  which  a  shortcut  descends  by  steps 
to  the  right)  the  road  descends  in  windings  to  (21/4  M.)  Aller- 
heiligen. 

FsoM  Ottbkh6fbn  to  Allsbhkiliobn  by  the  Edel/rauengrab  and 
the  BWchereck  (2V4  hrs.) ,  a  very  attractive  walk.    In  front  of  the  church 


396   Route  48.  ALLERHEILIGEN.  Black  Forest. 

we  turn  to  tbe  left,  then  follow  the  footpath  inunediately  to  the  right,  and 
the  road  to  the  left  higher  up,  which  diverges  from  the  road  to  Aller- 
heiligen  at  a  point  about  300  yds.  beyond  the  church.  After  10  min.  we 
follow  the  middle  road  in  a  straight  direction,  traverse  the  pretty  Oottschldg' 
Thai  (inn),  cross  the  brook  several  times,  and  finally  ascend  by  steps  to 
the  (20  min.)  Edelfrauengrab  (^grave  of  the  noble  ladyOi  a  small  grotto  to 
which  a  romantic  legend  attaches.  The  environs  are  very  pickiresque, 
especially  the  path  ascending  beyond  this  point  past  numerous  pretty  cas- 
cades, to  the  (1  hr.)  BUfc?ureek.  Fartber  on,  the  path  leads  ttirough  wood 
and  soon  reaches  the  road  (see  below) }  V*  ^'' '  ^ll^heiligen.  The  pretty 
footpath  from  the  BIfichereck  vi&  the  saddle  known  as  ^Bei  St.  Ursula^  is 
1/4  br.  longer.  —  Travellers  coming  from  Seebach  (p.  890)  may  diverge 
to  the  left  at  the  Hagen-Braeke  (p.  895),  beyond  the  Ereuz  Inn,  y^HL'  before 
reaching  Ottenhofen. 

♦ADerheiligen  (2035  ft.;  MittmrnaUr'i  Inn,  R.  from  2,  B.  1, 
pens,  from  6  ujf),  with  the  ruins  of  a  PraBmonstratensian  abbey, 
founded  by  tbe  Duchess  Uta  of  Schauenburg  in  1196,  and  partly 
.  destroyed  by  lightning  in  1803,  is  one  of  the  most  frequented  spots 
in  the  Black  Forest.  The  church  was  a  Gothic  edifice  with  polygonal 
side-choirs  to  the  E.  ot  the  transept  and  a  square  tower  over  the 
crossing. 

Immediately  below  the  convent  is  a  rugged  cleft  in  the  rocks, 
through  which  the  Qrundenhach  is  precipitated  into  the  valley 
beneath  in  a  series  of  falls,  270  ft.  high  in  all,  called  the  *Bfitten- 
stein  Falls  or  BiXttenschroffen.  The  waterfalls  and  their  picturesque 
accessories  are  seen  to  most  advantage  in  ascending.  The  best  way 
of  approaching  them  is,  accordingly,  to  take  the  footpath  to  the 
'Luisenruhe ,  Engelskanzel ,  and  Teufelsstein*,  which  diverges  to 
the  right  of  the  barn,  opposite  the  new  Logierhaus,  and  leads  through 
wood  to  the  (Y2  hr.)  road  at  the  foot  of  the  falls.  We  then  ascend 
the  path  to  the  (Y2  ^r)  inn. 

Way-posts  at  tiie  above-mentioned  view-point  Luisenruhe  indicate  paths 
leading  via  the  picturesque  Bohlberg  (2670  ft. ;  p.  896)  to  OberMrch^  and  vi& 
the  Braunherg  to  (2  hrs.)  Sulthach  (p.  397). 

The  Bothe  Schliffkopf  (3460  ft.)  may  be  ascended  in  VJk  hr.  from 
AUerheiligen  by  a  path  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Oppenau  road  a  few 
min.  above  the  ruin  beyond  the  bridge  (guide-post).  On  the  top  (view- 
platform)  is  a  broad  path  constructed  in  18v7.  Thence  we  may  follow  the 
Wurtemberg  frontier  to  the  left  to  the  (ii/4  hr.)  RUhiiein  (p.  391);  or  we 
may  descend  to  the  right,  passing  the  source  of  the  Bechte  Murg  C2886  ft.), 
to  the  (Vi  hr.)  road  from  Buhlbach  (p.  394)  to  Kniebis,  and  follow  the  latter 
to  the  right  (short-cuts  for  walkers)  to  the  (>/«  hr.)  view-platform  beside 
the  Zufiucht  Inn  at  the  Schwabenschante  (p.  397). 

From  Allbbhelligbn  to  Oppenau  ,  7  M.  The  carriage-road, 
which  affords  the  shortest  and  best  route,  diverges  to  the  right  from 
the  Ottenhofen  road  a  few  min.  beyond  the  min,  crosges  the  brook, 
and  descends  in  windings  to  (1^/4  M.)  the  foot  of  the  waterfalls. 
Once  more  crossing  the  stream,  it  passes  (V2  M.)  the  Wasaerfall  JSnn 
(pens,  f^om  5  Jf ;  same  landlord  as  the  AUerheiligen  inn) ,  and 
follows  the  bank  of  the  Lierbach  (as  the  Griindenbach  is  now  called), 
high  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  Near  Oppenau,  1  M.  beyond  the 
Taube  Inn  (p.  398),  the  Kniebis  -  Strasse  and  the  road  to  (3  M.) 
Antogast  (p.  398)  diverge  to  the  left.  —  Oppenau^  see  p.  897. 


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Black  Forat,  OBERKIRCH.  48,  Boute.    397 

Fbom  Allebhbiligbn  to  Rippoldsau  oybb  the  Eniebis,  5  hrs. 
Below  the  new  Logierhaus  we  take  the  path  which  diverges  to  the 
left  at  a  flnger-post  (*Zui  Zufluchf),  crosses  the  Oppenau  road,  and 
begins  to  ascend.  We  then  traverse  pine-woods,  sldrting  the  Butten- 
kopf  (2620  ft.)  on  the  left  (E.)  >nd  later  the  Schauerkopf  (3210  ft.), 
on  the  right  (W.).  In  about  i^/4  hr.  the  broad  road  narrows  to  a  foot- 
path, which  pursues  its  nearly  level  way  due  S.  In  about  I3/4  hr. 
more  we  come  to  the  Wurtemberg  frontier  and  In  another  10  min. 
to  the  'Hohenweg'  (p.  387),  descending  on  the  left  from  the  Schliff- 
kopf  (p.  391).  Immediately  afterwards  we  see  the  Schwahenschanze 
(*Swabian  intrenchment'),  an  ancient  earthwork  (3170ft. ;  belvedere) 
on  the  highest  point  of  the  Bosshuhl  (p.  398).  About  1/4  M.  farther 
on  we  reach  the  humble  Inn  Zur  Zuflucht,  on  the  road  from  Oppenau 
to  Rippoldsau  and  Freudenstadt;  and  2V4  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  the 
Alexanderschanse  Inn  (p.  399),  where  the  Oppenau  road  joins  that 
ifrom  Griesbach  to  Freudenstadt.  Thence  to  Rippoldsau,  see  p.  399. 

e*  I^om  Appenweier  to  Oppenau  and  the  Baths  in  the  Benchthal. 

Railwat  from  Appenweier  to  Oppenau ,  11  M. ,  in  »/4  - 1  hr.  (fares 
1  Ul  90,  1  Ul  50,  95  pf.).  —  DiLiGKNOB  from  Oppenau  \i%  Petertihal  to  Qries- 
hach^  V/t  M.,  thrice  daily  in  summer  (June  Ist-Sept.  15th)  in  IV4  hr. ;  and 
from  Griesbach  to  Freudenstadt  via  the  Eniebis,  13  M.,  once  daily  in  summer 
in  2^/4  hrs.    The  omnibuses  from  the  baths  ply  only  when  specially  ordered. 

Appenweier ,  see  p.  375.  The  train  ascends  the  Renchthal  to 
(21/2  M.)  Zusenhofen.  —  51/2  M.  Oberkirch  (626  ft.;  Linde,  with 
shady  garden,  pens,  from  AJK ;  Ooldener  Adler^  good  wine ;  Schwarzer 
Adler,  all  very  fair;  beer  at Braun's),  situated  in  an  extremely  fertile 
district  on  the  slope  of  the  hill ,  at  the  entrance  to  the  narrower 
Renchthal.   Pop.  3300. 

About  1  M.  farther  on ,  beyond  the  Bench,  to  the  right  of  the  line,  is 
the  ruined  castle  of  FUrtteneck.  A  road  ascends  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Bench  from  Oberkirch  to  Oedsbctch^  whence  the  Moosthurm  (p.  M))  may 
be  reached  in  about  3  hrs.  About  21/4  H.  to  the  X.E.  of  Oberkirch  lie  the 
raina  o{  Sehauenburg^  whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained ;  Von  Baber't  Edllho/^ 
«/4  M.  |p  the  B.,  is  another  good  point  of  view.  To  the  N.  of  Oberkirch 
are  the  villages  of  (1  M.)  Octubach  (Lamm)  and  (3  M.)  Binffetbtuch  (Salm), 
both  noted  for  their  wine. 

71/2  M.  Lautenbach  (705  ft. ;  Schwan,  pens.  31/2-'*  Jf,  ^eiy  fair; 
Kreuzj  Stem),  with  a  late-Gothic  church  (1471-83)  containing  an 
interesting  screen  and  stained-glass  windows.  The  tower  was  added 
in  1898.    Hence  to  the  Moosthurm  via  Oedsbach,  3  hrs. 

9  M.  Hubacker  is  the  station  for  Sulzbach,  a  small  bath  II/4  M. 
to  the  N.  (R.  1^/2,  pens,  from  6  Jf)  with  a  saline  spring  (70®Fahr.). 
From  Sulzbach  a  picturesque  road ,  soon  splitting  into  two  arms, 
passing  respectively  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  the  Kuischenkopf  (2b0b  ft.) 
and  the  Eseli^pf  (2QSb  ft.),  leads  to  (5  M.)  Allerheiligen  (p.  396). 
Walkers  should  choose  the  E.  arm  vlH  the  Braunberg,  2  hrs. 

11  M.  Oppenau.  —  Hotels.  H6tkl  Post,  with  garden,  pens.  41/2-6  Jf; 
GoLDBMBB  Adlsr,  peus.  iy^-bUf;  HiKsGH,  wlth  beer-garden;  Oohs,  pens. 


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398   BoutedS.  OPPENAU.  Black  Forest. 

i  Jf.  —  FoBTUHA,  at  the  station,  tinpretending.  —  Taubk,  with  mineral 
baths,  IVs  M.  from  Oppenau,  on  the  road  to  Allerheiligen  (p.  396),  well 
spoken  of,  pens,  i^/t  Jif.  —  Hotel  zum  Fimkxm,  see  below. 

Carriage  to  Antogast  5,  Freiersbach  or  Petersthai  7,  Griesbach  10  Jf\ 
to  the  waterfall  at  Allerheiligen  7,  to  the  convent  10  J(.  —  Diligbnoe, 
see  p.  397. 

Oppenau  (880  ft.),  a  busy  littie*town,  with  2000  inhab.,  is  fre- 
quented as  a  summeT-resort.  In  the  market-place  is  a  War  Mon- 
ument, —  A  conspicuous  belvedere  near  the  town  commands  an 
excellent  view ;  it  is  reached  in  20-25  min.  by  passing  the  N.  side 
of  the  church. 

From  Oppenau  to  the  Mootihvrm  (p.  400),  about  2  hrs.  We  follow  the 
Renchthal  road  for  6-8  min.,  then  turn  to  the  right  (way-post)  and  ascend 
to  Kutt  (p.  400). 

Close  by  the  Oppenau  station  the  highroad  divides,  the  right 
(S.)  branch  being  the  Renchthal  road  (see  beldw),  and  the  left  (E.) 
arm  being  the  RossstHL  Road,  formerly  known  as  the  Kniebis  road. 
The  latter  passes  through  Oppenau.  Immediately  beyond  the  town 
the  road  to  (4  M.)  Antogast  (1585  ft.;  ♦Huber),  with  chalybeate 
baths,  charmingly  situated  in  the  pretty  Maieaeh-Thal,  and  known  as 
St.  Arbogast  in  the  16th  cent.,  diverges  to  the  right,  and  crosses 
the  Lierbach ;  the  road  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  Allerheiligen 
(p.  396).   Footpath  to  (IV4  ir.)  Griesbach  (see  p.  399). 

The  road  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Antogast  road  gradually 
ascends  (in  8/4  hr.  footpath  to  the  left,  returning  in  I/2  br.  to  the 
road  again) ,  and  finally  traverses  some  fine  woods  (In  V2  ^r-  foot- 
path to  the  left)  to  the  summit  of  the  Bossbubl  (3170  ft.),  on 
which,  to  the  left,  is  the  Sehwabenschanze  (p.  397).  It  then  makes 
a  wide  curve,  past  the  Schwedenschanze  (on  the  right),  to  the  Zw- 
flucht  Inn  (p.  397).  

The  road  continuing  to  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Rench  (diligence, 
see  p.  397)  passes  through  a  small  part  only  of  Oppenau,  and  leads 
southwards  to  the  'Kniebis  Baths*  of  Freiersbach,  Petersthai,  and 
Griesbach.  Near  (1 V4  M.)  Ibach  (985  ft)  is  the  picturesquely-situat- 
ed Gasihaus  turn  Finken.  —  2  M.  Lockerberg  (Pflug).  *" 

A  carriage-road,  commanding  fine  views,  gradnally  ascends  from 
Locherberg  through  a  fertile  valley  via  the  Hamur$berg  to  (4V«  M.)  Ober- 
Harmersbach  (Drei  Schvfeinsk&p/e)  andTTnter-Harmersbach  (Actter^  very  fair), 
and  thence  goes  on  to  (11  M.)  Zell  (p.  400).  —  A  slightly  longer  route  to 
Zell,  via  Nordrach,  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  above-mentioned  road, 
about  21/4  M.  from  Locherberg.  This  route  divides  after  20-25  min.  into 
two  arms,  which,  however,  reunite  20-25  min.  farther  on,  at  Fabrik  Nord- 
rach or  Nordrach  Colonic  (1476  ft.  \  Dr.  O.  Walther'g  Establishment  for 
Consumptives,  pens.  10  UfO«  so  called  from  a  disused  glass-factory.  Fine 
pine-woods.  —  About  S'/a  M.  down  the  valley  of  Nordrach  lies  the  chief 
village  Nordrach  i*Linde,  pens.  4-5  Ul),  whence  the  Jlochkopf  (2015  ft.)  fine 
views)  may  be  ascended  (descent  to  the  W.  to  Gengenbach,  p.  400^.  The 
road  continues  to  follow  the  Nordrach  valley  to  (3Vt  M.)  ir<{<  (p.  4(J0-,  om- 
nibus twice  daily). 

Farther  on  in  the  Renchthal,  2  M.  from  Locherberg,  is  Bad 
freiersbaoh  (1260  ft. ;  Meyer's  Hotels  very  fair,  with  baths) ,  with 


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Bkusk  Forest.  PETERSTHAL.  48.  Route.    399 

sulphureous  springs,  situated  in  a  pretty  dale,  enclosed  by  lofty  hills. 
Then  (V2  M.)  — 

5  M.  (from  Oppenau)  Fetersthal.  —  Hotels.  Bis,  pens,  i^/i-bjf; 
H1R8CH,  R.  IV4-3,  pens.  4-5  Jf.  —  *Bad  Pkteksthal,  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
village,  well  equipped,  R.  1V2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2V«,  pens.  6-78/4  Ui  ,•  visitors'  tax 
2V2  Jf  per  week.  —  Numerous  private  apartments. 

Peiersthal  (1320  ft.),  the  most  important  of  these  small  watering- 
places,  occupies  a  sheltered  situation,  embellished  with  well-kept 
grounds.  The  four  springs  contain  iron  and  carbonic-acid  gas.  The 
baths,  which  were  known  in  the  16th  cent.,  are  frequented  by  about 
1500  patients  annually. 

A  pleasant  route  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the  Bear  Hotel  in  Petersthal 
through  the  Freiers-Thal  and  past  the  (Vi  hr.)  village  of  Freiersbach  to  the 
(IV4  hr.)  saddle  to  the  E.  of  the  Orosse  Eundskopf  (1876  ft.),  and  thence 
down  the  valley  of  the  WUdtchapbcich  to  (l>/j  hr.)  ScTiapbach  (p.  406).  — 
The  route  diverging  by  the  side-valley  to  we  S.,  beyond  the  village  of 
Freiersbach,  crosses  the  (1/4  hr.)  brook  and  reaches  the  (IVs  hr.)  saddle 
to  the  W.  of  the  Grosse  Hundskopf,  whence,  following  the  euide-posts,  we 
may  descend  the  Bankach-Thal,  passing  the  Bear  Inn,  to  (iVa-l'A  ^r.)  Ober- 
Wolfaeh  (p.  406).    Thence  to  the  railway-station  of  Wolfach,  ■/4-I  hr.  more. 

A  pleasant  footpath  leads  from  Petersthal  to  Antogcut  (p.  808)  in 
2hr8.,  passing  the  hamlet  of  DGttelbaeh  on  the  roadside;  at  the  telegraph- 
post  numbered  458  we  ascend  through  the  covered  gateway. 

The  Renchthal  now  turns  to  the  N.E.  In  3/^  hr.  we  reach  — 
2V2  M.  (from  Petersthal)  Griesbach  (1626  ft.;  *Curhaus,  Adler- 
bad,  Tannenhof,  R.  IV2-8,  pens.  572-^72  •^)»  possessing  a  chaly- 
beate spring ,  which  has  been  highly  valued  for  400  years ,  and 
pine-cone ,  mud ,  and  other  baths.  About  1800  patients  annually. 
Pleasant  grounds  surround  the  village,  and  the  Haberer  Thurm  com- 
mands a  good  view. 

A  footpath  leads  from  Gbibsbach  to  Rippoldsau  (21/4  hrs.),  diverging 
from  the  Kniebis  road  at  a  sharp  bend  about  1  M.  from  the  Gurhaus,  and 
ascending  past  a  waterfall  and  vi&  the  Sophienrt^e  to  the  Hilda  Eta  on  the 
Eolzwdlder  Edhe  (9005  ft.).  Thence  a  gradual  descent  brings  us  to  the 
road  to  Rippoldsau.  —  The  *H6henweg'  (p.  387)  runs  from  the  Holzwalder 
Hobe  vill  the  Lettersstdtter  EdJiey  the  Fretersberg,  the  Littweger  Edhe^  the 
Kreuzsattet^  Eirzwasen,  Ebenacker^  and  Kreuzbiihl  (hence  to  the  Eohenlochen, 
10  min.)  to  (71/4  hrs.)  Hausach  (p.  401). 

The  beautiful  road  (diligence  once  daily)  now  ascends  in  wind- 
ings to  the  Kniebis,  the  summit  of  which  is  reached  immediately 
beyond  the  Wurtemberg  frontier  at  the  (4^/2  M.)  Alexander$ehan%e 
/nn  (3165  ft. ;  R.  174-172,  pens.  33/4-474  UJT),  where  the  Rossbiihl 
road  joins  ours  (p.  397).  At  the  inn  Zum  Lamm  (3060  ft.  j  very  fair, 
carriages  on  hire),  I72  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Alexanderschanze,  on  the 
Rossbiihl  road,  the  roads  to  Rippoldsau  and  Freudenstadt  diverge. 
The  road  to  Rippoldsau  (172^^*.;  p.  407),  to  the  right,  leads  vi&  the 
Baden  village  of  Kniebis  (Zum  Schwarzwald ;  shorter  footpath  beyond 
the  village,  to  the  left)  and  winds  down  the  E.  side  of  the  Holzwalder 
Edhe  (see  above).  The  road  to  Freudenstadt  (7  M. ;  p.  408)  leads 
straight  on,  vi^  the  Wurtemberg  village  of  Kniebis  (Ochs),  and  de- 
scends along  the  left  bank  of  the  Forbach,  which  it  finally  crosses 
before  ascending  to  the  town. 

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400  Route  48.  GENGENBACH.  Black  Forut. 

Walksbs  fbom  thb  Albxandbbschamzb  Inn  to  Rippoldsau  follow  the 
Griesbach  road  for  Vs  M.,  then  take  the  path  which  leads  to  the  left  through 
the  wood  CHohenweg\  p.  387)  to  the  (3  M.)  Hilda  Hut  on  the  Holrwalder 
Hohe  (p.  399). 

f.  Schwarzwald  Bailway  from  Offenbnrg  to  Constanoe. 

Comp.  the  Maps^  pp.  898^  404. 

112  H.  Railway  in  6-6  hrs.  (fares  U  UV  40,  9  UV  60,  6  UV  20  pf . ;  by  ex- 
press  16  UV  90,  11  UV  60  pf. ;  'Aussichtswagen^  see  below). 

The  *Bohwarzwald  Bailway,  opened  in  1873,  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  in  Germany,  both  in  point  of  scenery  and  construction.  The 
most  interesting  part  is  that  between  Hansach  and  Villingen  (pp.  401404). 
Carriages  constructed  so  as  to  command  a  yiew  in  all  directions  CAxis- 
sichtswagen')  are  attached  to  the  express^trains  between  Offenbnrg  and 
Singen,  and  may  be  used  by  second-class  passengers  on  payment  of  1  •# 
extra;  tickets  are  obtainable  at  Offenbnrg,  Hausach,  Trlberg,  Villingen, 
and  Singen,  or  from  the  guard  of  the  train.  The  line  attracts  numerous 
travellers,  and  the  inns  at  Hansach,  Homberg,  Trlberg,  and  other  pictur- 
esque points  are  often  full. 

Offehburg,  see  p.  376.  —  The  line  trayeises  the  populous  and 
fertile  Knutig-  Thalj  a  valley  enclosed  by  gently-sloping  mountains. 
2^2  M.  Ortenberg  (Krone),  above  which,  on  a  vine-clad  hill,  rises  the 
chateau  of  Ortenberg  (710  ft.),  built  by  Eisenlohr  in  1834-40  on  tbe 
site  of  an  ancient  strongbold  destroyed  by  Marshal  Crtfqui  in  1668. 

54/2  M.  Oengenbach  (580  ft.;  Adler,  SonrUy  both  very  fair),  with 
2900  inhab.,  an  independent  town  down  to  the  Peace  of  LuntfviUe 
(1801),  still  exhibits  traces  of  its  former  importance  in  Its  walls, 
gates,  and  towers,  although  most  of  the  buildings  have  been  erected 
since  the  destruction  of  the  town  by  the  French  in  1689.  The  hand- 
some Benedictine  Abbey ^  founded  in  the  8th  cent,  to  which  the  town 
owes  its  origin,  is  now  a  preparatory  school  for  teachers.  The  Ro- 
manesque abbey-church  has  rococo  choir-stalls.  The  Bathhaus  is  a 
handsome  18th  cent,  building,  lately  restored.  Opposite  is  a  foun- 
tain with  a  statue. 

Walks  awd  Exodbsions.  In  the  NolUnadld ;  to  the  GA  hr.)  Bt.  JcuMi$ 
Chapel  on  the  Kastelberg  and  thence  to  the  G/z  hr.  more)  TeufeUkamtl; 
via  Einaeh  (Bebstock,  unpretending)  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Kinzig, 
then  (V4  hr.)  to  the  left  up  the  Sattersbaeh-Thal,  and  to  the  right  to 
the  (IV2  hr.)  Hochkopf  (p.  388).  —  A  pleasant  excursion  leads  to  the 
(3  hrs.)  "Hoosthurm  on  the  Siedigkopf  or  Gai»*chleifkopf  (2876  ft.).  The 
path  (re'd  way-marks)  ascends  ti^e  Haigeraeher-Thal  from  Gengenbach, 
passing  the  (»A  hr.)  WcOdhom  Inn,  and  follows  the  'Capellen-Weg'  through 
wood  to  the  (11/4  hr.)  Komebene  (3190  ft.)  and  the  (10  min.)  ^JHlrre  Jirtm- 
nen"  (2100  ft.),  where  the  routes  divide.  We  follow  the  route  to  the  left 
to  the  (1  hr.)  Siedigkopf^  whence  a  footpath  ascends  in  6  min.  to  the  stone 
Moosthurm,  65  ft.  in  height.  The  view  hence  embraces  a  considerable 
part  of  the  Black  Forest,  especially  the  valleys  of  the  Bench  and  the  Kin- 
sig.  From  the  Moosthurm  the  walk  may  be  continued  to  the  K.B.  past  the 
EdeUnanmkopf  (2895  ft.)  to  Kutt  (rfmts.)  and  thence  via  Bdrekritt  to 
(2  hrs.)  Oppenau  (p.  397).  Or  we  may  return  to  the  DIbrre  Brunnen  and 
follow  the  E.  path,  which  leads  to  Nordrach  (p.  398). 

91/2  M.  Schdnberg.  —  11 V4  M.  Biberaoh  (685  ft. ;  Krone ;  Sonne^ 
pens.  3-4^2  •^)>  ^^  ^^^  mouth  of  the  Harmersbaeh.  On  the  latter, 
272  M.  distant,  lies  the  thriving  village  of  Zell  (Hirtch ;  LoweJ^  with 

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Black  threat ,  HAUSACll.  4S.  Route.    401 

1600  Inhab.,  to  wMch  an  omnibns  plies  five  times  daily  from 
Biberach.  At  Zell  the  valley  divides  into  the  Unterharmerahach^Thal 
and  the  Nordraeh-Thdl,  through  both  of  which  are  roads  leading  to 
the  Renchthal  (p.  398;  post-oninibns  twice  daily  to  Harmersbach  and 
as  often  to  Nordrach). 

Fkom  Bibbbach  to  Laub  (9  M.)  a  road  leads  over  the  Schifnberg.  On 
the  top  (1210  ft.),  2*/4  M.  from  Biberach,  is  the  Ldve  Inn,  a  few  yards  be- 
yond which  a  footpath  diverges  to  the  right,  leading  in  40  min.  to  a 
lofty  and  precipitous  rock,  crowned  with  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  Hohen-Geroldseek  (1726  ft.),  first  mentioned  in  1139,  destroyed  by  the 
French  Marshal  Gr^qui  in  1697,  and  commanding  a  fine  view.  From  the 
Sch5nbcrg  the  road  descends  into  the  SchuUer-Thal,  where,  at  (3  If.)  Beichen- 
6acA,  we  reach  the  steam- tramway  mentioned  at  p.  376.   Lahry  see  p.  376. 

Before  (14^2  M.)  Steinaeh  is  reached,  the  line  crosses  the  Kinzig. 
—  I6V4  M.  Haalaoh  (730  ft.;  Kreut,  pens,  from  4  Jf\  a  prosperous 
little  town  with  2200  inhab.,  was  destroyed,  with  the  exception  of 
the  church,  by  the  French  in  1704,  on  their  retreat  after  the  battle 
of  Hochstadt. 

An  attractive  road  runs  to  the  S.  from  Haslach,  vi&  Eo/stettm,  to  (911.) 
Eleach  (p.  412),  passing  halfway  near  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
ffeidbwg  (to  the  left). 

2OV2  M.  Hansach  (780  ft.;  Bahnhofs-Edtel ;  Hirsch;  Enget) 
is  a  small  town  with  1700  inhab.,  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  an 
old  castle  of  the  Princes  of  FQrstenberg,  destroyed  by  the  French  in 
1643.  —  From  Hausach  to  Wolfach  (Rippoldsau),  Schiltach,  and 
Freudenstadt,  see  pp.  406-408. 

The  railway  quits  the  Kinzig-Thal  above  Hausach,  turns  to  the 
right  at  Am  Thurm,  and  ascends  the  picturesque  and  fertile  valley 
of  the  Outach.  —  23  M.  Gntach  (920  ft. ;  Lowe,  pens,  from  41/2  UJT). 
The  Farr^fi&op/' (2590  ft. ;  picturesque  view)  may  be  ascended  hence 
in  2  hrs.,  by  a  good  path  diverging  to  the  W.  from  the  highroad  be- 
tween the  station  and  the  Lowe  inn.  It  may  also  be  ascended  in  the 
same  time  from  Hausach  vii  Breitenbach. 

27  M.  Homberg.  —  Railway  Station  (1260  ft.)  on  the  right  hank  of 
the  Giitaoh,  high  above  the  town.  The  chief  hotels  send  omnibuses  to  meet 
the  trains. 

Hotels.  ^HoTEL  k  Curhaus  Schloss  Hornbebg  (see  below),  B.  1-5, 
B.  IV4,  D.  3,  pens,  from  6,  omn.  i  Jt.  —  In  the  town:  *Po8t.  E.  from  IV2, 
pens,  from  5  Jt;  *BAb,  B.  IVa-S,  pens.  6-7  Jl;  BOsslk,  B.  IV4-IV2,  pens. 
4-5  J$y  well  spoken  of;  Adlbk. 

Homherg  (1180  ft.),  an  old  town  of  2600  inhab.,  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  O/fenbach-Thaly  opposite  the  Reicheribach-Thal,  and 
is  commanded  by  a  precipitous  hill  crowned  by  a  Chdteau  (1500  ft.), 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1703.  It  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
spots  in  the  Black  Forest  and  attracts  numerous  summer- visitors. 
The  ch&teau  is  reached  in  20  min.  by  a  road  ascending  the  Offen- 
bach-Thai, then  turning  to  the  right,  or  by  a  shorter  footpath  direct 
from  the  town.  The  top  of  the  hill,  on  which  is  the  hotel,  commands 
a  fine  view. 

Walks.  To  the  N".  to  the  ("Z*-!  hr.)  Markgra/entchame  (1600  ft.),  with 
a  view -pavilion-,   to   the  E.    to  the  (1  hr.)  Windeck/els  (2020  ft.),  on  the 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  26  •      _ 


402   Route  48.  UOUNBKKG.  Black  I'ortst. 

way  to  Althornberg  (see  below}  ^  to  the  Reiehenbaeh-Thal  (and  vi&  the  Benz- 
ebene  to  Theonenbronn,  p.  406)  or  to  the  Sehwanenbaeh-ThtUf  through  the 
Schwanenbach-Thal  to  the  (2  hrs.)  top  of  the  Windkapf  (3036  fk.)«  and  back 
via  Althornberg)  vi^  the  chateau  of  Homberg  to  the  (>/«  hr.)  ZiegeVcop/ 
(2370 ft.) \  to  the  (IV2  br.)  top  of  the  JStatenwakUtopf  (2525  ft.),  to  tbe  8. 

The  most  attractive  excursion  is  tliat  to  the  (2  lurs.)  rocky  height  of 
*Althomberg  (2390  ft.).  About  250  paces  to  the  8.  of  the  railway-station 
we  cross  the  line,  and  thence  ascend  rapidly  to  the  wood.  We  turn  to  the 
right  in  the  wood,  follow  the  finger-posts  and  red  way-marks,  and  finsdiy 
pass  round  the  upper  end  of  tbe  Altbomberg  ravine  and  reach  the  (iVt  hr.) 
hamlet  of  Althornherg.  Thence  the  path  (marked  II  in  red)  ascends  no  the 
right)  to  the  summit  in  20  minutes.  The  view  hence  of  the  Oatach-Thal  is 
probably  the  finest  in  this  part  of  the  Black  Forest,  and  embraces  a  spe- 
cially interesting  survey  of  the  curve 9  and  tunnels  of  the  railway.  —  The 
path  marked  III  in  red  leads  to  the  (8-10  min.)  Rappen/eh^  commanding  a 
similar  view.  —  Thence  vi&  the  Sehameck  and  through  the  Bothenbach- 
Thal  to  Triberg,  see  p.  403. 

Fbom  Hoknbbrg  to  Elzacu  (p.  412;  comp.  Map,  p.  404),  ISVa  M.  At  the 
houses  of  SteingrUn^  about  ls/4  M.  below  Homberg,  our  road  diverges  to 
the  W.  from  the  Hausach  road  and  gradually  ascends.  Near  Landwnser 
it  reaches  the  Prechthaly  in  which  it  then  descends.  EUaehy  see  p.  412. 
A  guide-post  on  the  saddle  between  the  Gutach-Thal  and  tiie  Prechthal 
indicates  the  route  (to  the  right)  to  the  Farrenkopf  (p.  401),  which  may  be 
ascended  hence  (2  hrs.  there  and  back) 

Fbom  Hobnbebq  to  Sohbambebg  (p.  407;  Map,  p.  398),  a  charming  walk 
of  lOVs  H.  through  the  Schonaeh-Thal,  by  the  FohrmhUhl  02285  ft. ;  Sehwan ; 
Adler;  view)  and  Lauterbach  (8chwarzwald  Hotel). 

The  most  interesting  part  of  the  line  is  between  Homberg  and 
(18  M.)  St.  Georgen.  For  some  distance  the  railway  rans  parallel 
with  the  road,  which ,  like  the  line  itself,  is  in  many  places  hewn 
in  the  rock,  and  then  ascends  the  narrow,  wooded  Qutach-Thal. 
Above  the  village  of  (32  M.)  Nitderwaistt  (1380  ft. ;  Sonne,  pens 
from  31/2  M)  is  the  'Niederwasser  Kehr-Tunnel*,  where  the  first 
great  curve  begins.  Tunnels  (of  which  there  are  26  between  Horn- 
berg  and  St.  Georgen),  viaducts,  and  hridges  follow  in  rapid  suc- 
cession. The  gradient  varies  from  1 :  58  to  1 :  50.  —  The  best 
general  survey  is  commanded  by  the  Althornberg  (see  above),  which 
is  seen  from  the  line  on  the  E.  side  of  the  valley. 

35  M.  Triberg.  -~  The  Station  (2025  ft. ;  Rail.  Rtstauront)  lies 
below  the  'Kreuz-Briicke',  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  from  St  Georgen 
and  Furtwangen,  and  about  Vt  H.  from  the  town  (2200  ft),  to  which  omni- 
buses run.  Porter,  for  lu^age  under  55  lbs.,  50  pf. ;  to  the  Schwarawald  and 
Bcllevue  hotels  60  pf.  —  From  the  station  to  the  market-place  1  M. ;  thence 
to  the  Falls  10-15  min.  more ;  so  that  the  walk  from  the  station  to  the  Falls 
and  back  takes  1V2-2  hrs.  The  road  passes  a  monument  to  Bob.  Gtnoig 
(1820-85),  builder  of  the  Schwarzwald  and  HoUenthal  railways.  Visitors 
who  desire  to  spend  at  Triberg  only  the  interval  between  two  trains  should 
visit  the  waterfall  first  and  then  dine  at  the  railway  restaurant  (D.  IVs  •#)• 

Hotels  (often  uncomfortably  crowded  in  summer).  Sghwabzwaxd  Hotbl 
(2345  ft.),  in  a  beautiful  situation,  1/4  M.  from  the  Falls,  with  view  of  the 
valley,  R.  2-672,  B.  IV-i,  D.  4,  pens,  from  8,  omn.  i  J(.  —  Bbllbvub,  in  an 
open  situation  on  the  SchSnwald  road,  R.  lVs-4,  B.  1,  D.  2^/4,  pens.  B-^/tJf^ 
omn.  80  pf.  These  two  are  closed  in  winter.  —  *Hotbl  Weublb,  in  the  ittin- 
cipal  square,  B.  2-6,  B.  II/4,  D.  8,  pens,  from  6  Jf^  omn.  70  pf.;  Lowb  A 
National,  R.  2V2-4,  B.  1,  D.  3.  pens,  firom  7  Jf;  Bngel,  nearly  opposite  the 
Ochs,  R.  2-3Va,  B.  1,  D.  I'A-SVa,  pens.  5-7i/t  UT,  omn.  60  pf.  —  Sohhb, 
with  wine-room,  R.  lVs-2V2.  pens,  froni  bjf^  omn.  50  pf.,  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  town.  —  Adleb,  with  brewery,  pens.  i-b^/'zUt;  Lilie,  unpretending; 


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Black  Forest  TRIBEUG.  dB.  Route.    403 

Zvu  WASBJiitrALL.  pens.  41/2  Jf  (see  below).  —  Pjcmbions:  Fackler^  pens. 
4i/r5jr;  Tr«tr«i  (R.  lVs-2V«  ^,  B.  80pf.,  8.  i^liJf;  D.  not  suppUed),  very 
fair,  in  the  u.pper  part  of  the  town.  —  JKumerous  private  lodgings. 

Baths  and  Restanrant  at  Sehwer^*^  to  the  right  of  the  main  street,  near 
the  Engel ;  JSgerhous,  on  ihe  Schonwald'  road  (p.  i09),  Vt  It*  beyond  the. 
Hotel  Bcllevue.  —  Ca/i  Pfaffi  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town.  —  Brauerei 
Doldj  at  the  Kreoz-Briicke. 

XagUsh  Ghnreh.  Service  in  summer. 

Viaitors'  Tax,  daUy  30  pf.,  per  week  1  Jf. 

Triberg  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  Black  Forest^  aud  is  cue  of  the 
principal  centres  of  the  trade  in  clocks,  numerous  specimens  of 
which  may  be  seen  in  the  Industrial  Exhihitiorh  (adm.  50  pf.). 
Pop.  3400.  The  lofty  and  yet  sheltered  situation  of  the  place,  and 
the  fine  waterfall  attract  many  summer -visitors.  It  contains  a 
Roman  GatholiC)  a  Protestant,  and  a  small  Eaglish  church.  The 
streets  and  waterfall  are  lighted  by  electricity. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  long  main  street  stands  a  finger-post, 
the  left  arm  of  which  indicates  the  way  (Hofiehen-Str.)  to  the 
waterfall ,  past  the  Schwarzwald  Hotel,  while  the  right  arm  points 
across  the  bridge  to  the  Industrial  Exhibition.  Beyond  the  Schwarz- 
wald Hotel  we  take  the  lower  path  to  the  right,  and  in  5  min.  reach 
a  projecting  rock,  from  which  the  best  general  view  is  obtained. 
The  *Watbbfall,  formed  by  the  Outach^  is  the  finest  in  W.  Ger- 
many. The  stream,  which  is  here  of  considerable  volume,  is  preci- 
pitated from  a  height  of  600  ft.,  and  divided  into  seven  distinct  leaps 
by  huge  blocks  of  granite.  The  cascade,  like  the  fall  of  the  Giess- 
bach  in  Switzerland,  is  picturesquely  framed  by  dark  pines.  A  foot- 
path ascends  on  the  right  bank,  with  several  fine  points  of  view. 
Visitors  who  are  pressed  for  time  need  not  go  beyond  the  (10  min.) 
bridge.  In  20-25  min.  more,  above  the  falls,  and  close  to  the  Inn 
Zum  Wasserfall  (2930  ft.),  we  reach  the  road  to  SchSnwald  and 
Fnrtwangen  (p.  409),  by  which  we  return,  passing  the  Wallfahrts- 
Kirchs(2U0tt.). 

Other  walks:  from  the  Hoflehen-Str.  to  the  left,  before  the  Prot.  church, 
and  past  the  Olga  Pavilion  to  the  (20  injn.)  DreikaUerftU  (2620  ft.),  on  the 
ReUcheriy  the  height  to  the  £.  of  the  town ;  thence  by  the  Rassenbuche, 
Pulverhaus,  and  Schiitzenhaus  to  the  lower  part  of  Triberg.  —  A  finger- 
post in  the  Schwendi-Str.,  which  begins  near  the  L5we  Hot^,  indicates  the 
roate  to  the  Fehen-PaviUon^  and  another  in  the  lower  town,  near  Siedle's 
clock-factory,  that  to  the  Bahn-Au$eicht  on  the  Biffhalden^  the  height  to  the  W. 
of  Triberg.  —  From  the  Hoflehen-Str.  to  the  jyo/ect^shortly  before  which  a 
path  ascends  to  the  right  to  the  (*/«  hr.)  QeuUche  C3980ft.;  inn)  and  on  to 
the  (*/4  liT.^  StOckUwaldkopf  (3506  ft.),  with  a  belvedere  (view  of  the  Alps)^ 
thence  to  the  (>/«  hr.)  Eeuelberg  (3365  <t.)  and  to  St.  Oeorgen  (p.  404). 

From  Tbibebg  to  Hobnbebg  via  the  Althobnbebg,  2  hrs.  (no  inns). 
From  the  Kreuz-Brftcke,  at  the  lower  end  of  Triberg,  we  follow  the  high- 
road, passing  the  (20  min.)  Hirech  Inn  and  (1/4  hr.)  For  elk  Inn,  and  20  min. 
farther  on  turn  to  the  right  to  the  Gremmelsbach  road.  We  then  ascend 
the  road  to  the  lefl»  turn  (10  min.)  to  the  left,  and  proceed  vil  Rdthenbaeh  to 
the  (40  min.)  cross-roads  at  the  Sehameet.  Selecting  the  central  jroute  of  the 
three  leading  to  the  left  to  the  (>/«  hr.)  Rappenfelty  we  descend  (6-7  min.) 
to  the  rocky  AUhornberg.    Thence  to  Hornberg,  see  p.  402. 

Fbom  Tbibero  to  Elzach  via  ScnoNACH,  4V8  hrs.  The  road,  from 
which  the  Fnrtwangen  road  diverges  to  the  left  by    the  Wall/ahrts-Kirche 

26*    ^ 


404   Route  4b.  ST.  GEORGEN.  Btack  Forest. 


ir. 


403),  a  few  hundred  paces  above  Triherg,  a^cendfl  the  Unterthdl  to  the 
W.  to  r3  M.)  BehoiuMh  (2910  ft. ;  Oehs).  About  1  M.  above  Sehonach 
the  road  forks,  the  right  branch  leading  to  the  ^Prechfhal*  (p.  402),  tiie 
left  crossing  the  ^Hdhenweg*  (p.  387)  and  descending  to  (2  M  )  the  Elghof. 
From  the  Elshof  a  cart-track  (right)  leads  up  to  the  (V*  ^f-)  Oehs  Inn 
on  the  RohrhardUhwg\  then  descends  vi4  (IVshr.)  Yaeh  to  (s/i  br.)  Eltaeh 
(p.  412). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Gutach,  and  in  the  great  'Triberger 
Kehr-Tannel'  turns  direct  to  the  N.,  towards  the  top  of  the  hill. 
Several  tunnels  and  viaducts.  For  some  distance  we  observe  to  the 
left  below  us  the  portion  of  the  line  which  we  traversed  before 
reaching  Triberg.  The  train  turns  to  the  S. ,  passing  through 
tunnels  and  over  viaducts.  Beyond  (40  M.)  Nussbach  (2460  ft. ; 
Krone)  it  again  turns  to  the  E.  Among  the  next  tunnels  is  one 
1852  yds.  in  length,  which  penetrates  the  hill  of  (43  M.)  Sommerau 
(2736  ft.),  the  watershed  between  the  Rhine  and  the  Danube.  Many 
passengers  alight  here  (or  at  St.  Georgen),  and  travel  back  direct, 
or  walk  to  Triberg  (li/j  hr. ;  behind  the  station  is  a  restaurant). 

45  M.  St.  Georgen  (2660  ft. :  Zur  Brigaeh).  The  busy  clock- 
manufacturing  town  (^Deutsehet  Haus^  pens.  5-8  Jf;  Hirachj  pens. 
41/2  Uf,  Adler,  both  very  fair),  with  3500inh«b.,  is  prettily  situated 
on  a  height  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Brigach,  200  ft.  above  the  station. 
The  old  Benedictine  abbey,  founded  at  the  end  of  the  11th  cent., 
was  suppressed  in  1806. 

Fbox  St.  Gbobobh  to  Tribebo,  3«/4-3  hrs.  We  follow  the  Triberg  road 
for  some  min.  to  the  W.  from  the  staition,  cross  the  railway-embanJnnent 
to  the  left  before  a  pond,  skirt  it. for  some  distance,  and  turn  to  the  left 
to  Brigach.  Thence  we  proceed  viJ  the  Hirzwald  (inn),  with  porphyry- 
quarries,  or  vift  the  Ketselberg  (p.  403),  to  the  (IVt  hr.)  FticJu/aiU  Inn.  To 
the  Stdoklewaldkopf,  V4  br. ;  to  Triberg,  1  hr.  —  Ascent  of  the  Rupperts- 
berg  and  route  to  the  Bemeck-Thal,  see  p.  406. 

The  line  now  traverses  the  plateau,  not  far  from  the  Brigach. 
—  471/2  M.  PeUrtell  (2550  ft.;  Krone),  with  a  small  church,  partly 
Romanesque  and  partly  Gothic,  is  the  station  for  (2^2  M.)  Konigs- 
feld  (Oaithof  der  Brudergemdndey  pens,  from  4V2  •^  i  Curhaus 
Doniswaldy  B.  1-3,  board  4  Jf)^  an  interesting  little  Moravian 
settlement.  —  51  M.  Kimach  (2390  ft ;  •Wald-H6tel,  new  and 
well  equipped,  with  grounds  and  view,  R.  1^/2-5,  B.  1,  D.  3,  board 
5  Jf;  Honninger^s  Restaurant),  whence  a  road  runs  through  the 
picturesque  Kimach-Thal  to  Yohrenbach  (8  M. ;  p.  406),  passing 
the  ruin  of  Kime<^  and  the  village  of  Unter-Kimach  (2^^  M. ; 
Rossle).  Kimach  lies  on  the  edge  of  the  Villinger  Stadtwald,  which 
is  traversed  by  paths  in  all  directions  from  this  point. 

54  M.  ViUingen  (2310  ft. :  *Blume  or  Post,  R.  Ul2'2%  pens. 
0-6  Jf;  Flcuche;  Deutscher  Kaiser y  nearest  the  station;  Falke; 
Rail.  Restaurant),  an  ancient  manufacturing  town  (7800  inhab.), 
mentioned  as  early  as  the  9th  cent.,  and  a  centre  of  the  Black  Forest 
clock-making  industry,  is  partly  surrounded  with  walls  and  gates, 
which  fluccessfully  resisted  sieges  in  the  Thirty  Years' War  fl  633-34^ 
and  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  (1703-4).  XJVar  Monument 

.«d  by  GOOg 


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Black  ForeH.  DONAtJESOmNGEN.  4fi.  Route,   405 

for  1870-7  i  rises  on  the  prometiade  between  the  station  and  the 
town.  Gothic  Munster-Kirche  with  two  towers  (of  1420),  a  Gothic 
pulpit,  and  some  good  plate.  The  Rathhaus  contains  weU-preserved 
rooms  in  the  medlsval  style,  and  a  few  antiquities  (40  pf.).  The 
St,  Michaels-Thumij  with  a  portrait  of  the  ^Landsknecht'  Romeius 
(d.  1513),  is  the  most  interesting  of  the  old  towers.  The  Tower  of 
the  AUstadt'Kirche^  beside  the  (72  M.)  cemetery,  is  a  relic  of  the  old 
town  of  Villingen  which  was  removed  to  its  present  site  about  1119. 
The  Wanne  (2610  ft.),,  a  neighbouring  hill,  commands  a  view  of 
the  Alps  in  clear  weather.  About  II/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Villingen  is 
the  rained  Warenburg.  —  Villingen  is  the  junction  for  the  railway 
to  Rottweil;  see  Baedeker's  Southern  Germany. 

From  (55  M.)  Marbach  (2280  ft.)  a  diligence  plies  thrice  daily  to 
(3  M.)  the  baths  of  Durrheim.  —  561/2  ^'  Klengen ;  58  M.  Qriiningen. 

62  M.  Donauesohingen.  —  HoteU.  in  the  town:  SchOtzb,  with 
saline  baths,  B.  lVs-3  Jf,  D.  from  2,  pens,  frooi  5Vi  UV,  old  established 
and  very  fair;  Falkb  zur  Post,  alsu  very  fair,  peas.  5  ,My  Lamm,  pens, 
from  iJ(.  —  Railtoay  Restaurant^  D.  iVz  Jf.  —  Small  Saline  Bath. 

Donaueschingen  (2220  ft.),  an  ancient  town  with  3800  inhab., 
has  been  the  residence  since  1723  of  the  Princes  of  Fiirstenberg, 
who  possess  a  celebrated  library  and  valuable  collections.  From  the 
station,  we  follow  the  main  street,  pa^t  the  ^Furttliche  Kammer\  to 
a  bridge,  beyond  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  gate  of  the  princely 
Park.  The  latter,  With  Its  fine  trees  and  ponds,  is  always  open  to 
the  public,  but  the  Palace  only  occasionally. 

A  descent  leads  down  from  the  choir  of  the  church  to  a  round, 
walled-in  basin,  with  a  spring  of  clear  water,  which  is  led  by  a 
subterranean  channel  to  the  Brigacb,  about  100  ft.  distant.  An  in- 
scription styles  this  spring  the  ^Source  of  the  Danube*  (2220  ft. 
above  the  sea-level;  1780  M.  from  the  sea),  but  the  name  Danube 
(Donau)  is  usually  first  applied  to  the  stream  formed  by  the  union 
of  the  Brigach  and  the  Brege. 

On  an  eminence  behind  the  church  and  the  palace  stands  the 
Carlsbau  (1868),  containing  collections  of  science  and  art.  The 
most  important  pictures  are  those  of  the  Swabian  and  Franconian 
Schools  of  the  16th  cent.,  including  examples  of  Zeltblom^  Holbein 
theElder^  Barthel  Behaniy  etc.  The  Armoury,  which  occupies  a  sep- 
arate building,  embellished  with  a  frieze  with  hunting-scenes,  con- 
tains a  number  of  old  implements  of  the  chase  and  a  few  modern  arms. 

In  the  Halden-Str.,  to  the  W.  of  the  church ,  are  the  Library 
and  Archives,  The  library  consists  of  90,000  vols,  and  about  1000 
MSS.,  including  the  finest  MS.  of  the  Nibelungenlied  after  those 
of  Munich  and  St.  GaUen,  and  several  others  of  early -German 
origin.  The  same  building  contains  the  collections  of  Engravings 
(Diirer,  Manlegna,  etc.)  and  Coins,  —  A  large  brewery  at  Donau- 
eschingen belongs  to  the  princely  family. 

From  Donadbschinoen  to  Fdrtwanqen,  20  M.,  branch-railway  in  Uh  i^i'- 
-   t»/4  M.  Hilfingen,  junction   for  the   line   to  Neustadt  (pp.  416,  H5).  — 


40i5   Route  48.  WOLFACH.  Black  ForeH. 

6  M.  WoUerdingen^  with  glass-works.  —  From  (12  M.)  Hammereiunhach 
(Hammer  Inn).  —  151/2  M.  Ydhrenbach  (2620  ft. ;  Eisernes  Kreuz ;  JUicin- 
adler)^  with  18(X)  inhah.,  is  a  scat  ot  the  clock -industry.  —  18  M.  Schdnen- 
bach.  —  20  M.  Fwriwangm^  see  p.  409. 

The  railway  now  follows  the  grassy  valley  of  the  Danube.  Sta- 
tions :  Pfohren,  Neudingen  (with  mansoleum  of  the  Princes  of  Ffirsten- 
herg),  Outmadingeny  Geisingen,  Hintschingen,  —  75  M.  Immendingen 
(2160  ft.;  Rait.  Restaurant;  FaZ&c),  with  1000  inhab.,  is  the  junction 
for  Waldshut  (p. 432)  and  for  Tuttlingen  and  Rottweil  (see  Baedeker* s 
Southern  Germany).  —  The  line  traverses  a  short  tunnel  and  beyond 
(77  M.)  Haitingen  intersects  the  watershed  between  the  Danube  and 
the  Rhine,  by  a  tunnel  980  yds.  long.  —  80  M.  Thalmuhle.  —  84  M. 
Engen  (1705  ft ;  Post  or  Stern) ,  a  quaint  village ,  is  the  central 
point  of  the  Hohgau,  the  volcanic  cones  of  which  are  seen  (^Neuen- 
hbwen,  2850ft.,  172^'.  totheN.W.;  Hohenhowen,  2780  ft.,  lV4hr. 
to  the  S.W.).  —  85V2  M.  Welsehingen ;  871/2  M.  Muhlhauseny  with 
the  basaltic  cone  of  the  Magdeberg  (2185  ft.)  to  the  right;  891/2  M. 
Hoherikrahen ,  with  the  striking  hill  of  the  same  name  and  a  ruined 
castle.  The  railway  rung  past  the  Hohentwiel  (p.  435)  to  (93  M.) 
Singen  (p.  435).   Thence  to  (111  M.)  Constance^  see  p.  435. 

g.   From  Hansaeh  to  Frendenstadt  vift  SeMltaoli.   Bippoldian. 

24V2  M.  Railway  in  l»/«-2  hrs.  (fares  3Jir20,2Uf20,  iJTdO  pf). 
From  Wolfaeh  diligence  and  omnibus  thrice  daily  to  Rippoldtau  in  ^/a  hrs. 
(3  Jf;  one-horse  carr.  12,  two-horse  18  J/)\  from  Freudenttadt  diligence 
and  omnibus  to  Bippoldsau  in  summer  in  2^4  hrs.  (1  Jf  60  pf.). 

Hausachy  see  p.  401.  The  train  ascends  the  Kinzig-lhal^  and  at 
(2  M.)  Kimba^h  crosses  the  stream  of  that  name. 

3  M.  Wolfaoh.  —  Railway  Station  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kinzig, 
to  the  S.  of  the  town.  —  Hotels.  Salxbn,  Krone,  pens,  from  3V2  •#.  — 
BoTuEB  OcHS,  pens,  from  4  •#;  Adlbr^  Zahrinobr  Hof;  these  three 
good  second-class  houses,  with  similar  prices.  —  *Eibpbritadblbad,  with 
baths  of  various  kinds,  *|^  M.  from  the  station,  B.  1V4-2,  D.  1V«-2V«»  pens. 
4-4*/t  -#. 

Wolfaeh  (760  ft.),  an  ancient  town  with  2000  inhab.  and  a 
handsome  old  *Amtshaus',  at  the  entrance  to  the  town,  is  situated 
among  abrupt  mountains  at  the  confluence  of  the  Wolfbach  and  the 
Kinzig.  Walks  may  be  taken  to  the  St.  Jacobs- Capelle  (1280  ft.), 
26  min.  from  the  upper  Kinzig  bridge,  and  to  the  (8/4  hr.)  Alte 
Schloss  (1135  ft.),  with  view. 


The  comparatively  uninteresting  road  to  (14  M.)  Rippoldsau 
ascends  the  valley  of  the  Wolfbach,  which  it  crosses  several  times. 
About  21/4  M.  from  the  station  of  Wolfaoh  it  reaches  the  church  of 
the  scattered  village  of  Ober-Wolfach  (936  ft. ;  Linde),  where  a  road 
(p.  399)  diverges  through  the  Rankach-Thal  to  Petersthial. 

At  the  entrance  to  (6  M.)  the  scattered  village  of  Scliapbaeh 
^^^375  ft. ;  OchSy  very  fair,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  village;  Adler, 

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Black  Forest,  RIPPOLDSAU.  48,  Route.  407 

Sonne,  farther  up),  the  Wildschapbach-Thal,  through  which  leads 
another  road  to  Petersthal  (p.  399),  opens  to  the  left. 

Near  the  (2^/4  M.)  Seebach  Inn  the  Seebach,  formed  by  the 
discharge  of  the  sequestered  Olaswaldseey  a  lake  situated  4Y2  ^• 
from  the  road  below  the  Letterstdtter  Hohe  (view),  emerges  from 
a  wild  side-valley  on  the  left.  About  1 M.  farther  on,  huge  granite 
rocks  rise  to  the  right  of  the  road ;  near  them  is  the  waterfall  of  the 
Burhach,  only  visible  after  rain.   We  next  reach  (3/4  M.)  the  — 

Klosterle  (1780  ft.;  H6t.  Klosterle,  R.  from  1%  pens.  from 
b  Jff  Erbprinz,  both  very  fair),  formerly  a  Benedictine  priory, 
with  a  church  with  two  towers,  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  by  the 
Benedictines  of  St.  Qeorgen  (p.  404).  It  lies  V4M.  below  Rlppoldsau, 
visitors  to.  the  baths  of  which  often  lodge  here. 

Fbox  the  Elostbble  to  Fbbudknstadt  ,  8Vs  M.  The  road  passes 
Reichenbachy  ascends  the  8chwab€tch'Thal  ^  and  traverses  tbe  Pfaffentoald 
to  Obertwi$selherg  (2790  ft. ;  Jagerruhe).  Thence  it  proceeds  in  wide  curves, 
round  the  valley  of  the  Kteine  Kintig,  to  join  the  road  from  Sehdmberg^ 
which  it  follows  to  the  left  to  Freudenstadt  (p.  406).  —  There  is  also  a 
pleasant  footpath  (2Vs  hrs.)  through  the  woods.  Passing  the  church,  we 
turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  brook,  and  take  the  broad  and  shady  forest- 
path  to  the  right  (stone  finger-post).  At  Ober-Zieieselbcteh  the  path  forks, 
the  left  arm  leading  to  Frmdenstadt  (p.  406),  the  right  to  Schenkenzell 
(p.  406). 

Bippoldsan  (1855  ft.  j  Goringer's  Hotel  and  Bath  House,  R.  3-7, 
B.  li/4,  D.  3,  board  6,  bath  i^j^-l  M,  closed  In  winter;  Rosen- 
garten,  pens.  4i/2-7  Jf),  a  village  with  700  Inhab.,  lies  at  the 
S.E.  base  of  the  Kniebis  (p.  399),  In  a  very  narrow  part  of  the 
Wolf  thai  It  is  the  most  frequented  and  best  organised  of  the  Knie- 
bis Baths  (1500  visitors  annually).  The  water  of  the  four  springs, 
containing  Iron,  earthy  Ingredients ,  and  Glauber's  salts ,  Is  con- 
sidered beneficial  In  cases  of  Internal  complaints.  It  is  exported  In 
bottles  (800,000  annually),  and  the  salt  Is  also  sold  under  the  name 
of  'Rlppoldsau  Salts\  The  environs  afford  many  pleasant  walks 
(^Kattelstein  on  the  Sommerberg,  Badwald,  etc.). 

About  iVt  M.  above  Rippoldsau  lies  Eolzwald.  Thence  across  the 
Holzwalder  Hohe  to  Oriesbach,  see  p.  399;  across  the  Kniebis  to  Oppenau, 
see  p.  398. 

The  train  continues  to  ascend  the  picturesque  ITttMip-Tba^,  which 
again  turns  to  the  E.  —  Beyond  (5^/2  M.)  Halbmeil  (Engel;  Lowe) 
the  train  crosses  to  the  right  bank.  Tunnel.  The  houses  on  the 
left  bank  are  called  the  Vordere  Lehengericht  (Pflug). 

9M.  SoMItaah  (1070  ft.;  Bahnhof-HdUl,  very  fair;  Krone, 
R.  lV4-^»  pens.  4-5  Jf ;  Engel),  an  old  town  (1700  Inhab.)  carrying 
on  a  brisk  timber-traffic,  situated  at  the  union  of  the  Schiltaeh  and 
the  Kinzig,  with  a  modern  Prot.  church,  and  a  ruined  castle  on  a  hill. 

Fbox  Schiltaoh  to  Schbambbrq,  6V2  H.,  branch-railway  in  35  min 
(fares  60,  40  pf.).  The  line  ascends  the  Schiltach-Thal,  and  traverses  the 
Hintere  Lehengericht,  with  the  station  of  (2y»  M.)  Lehengericht.  At  the 
Wurtemberg  frontier^  above,  to  the  right,  is  tne  mined  castle  of  SchUteck 
—  6V2  M.  Bchramberir  (1380  ft. ;    Post  or  Krone,   very  fait,  pens.   4-5  J' 

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408   Route  48.  FRBUDEN8TADT.  Black  Forest. 

Hirsch\  an  indnstrial  town  of  8600  inbab,  (straw-plidting,  clock -making, 
and  potteries),  is  prettily  situated  on  the  ScMUach^  commanded  by  the 
ruined  Nippenburg.  —  About  2^/8  M.  from  Scbramberg,  on  ibe  Homberg 
road  (p.  lO?),  wbicb  skirts  tbe  Lauterbacb  waterfalls,  is  the  village  of 
Lauterbach  ("Curbaus  and  Hydropatbic;  Sonne),  a  bealtb-resort. 

A  picturesque  road  pr(  ceeds  from  Scbramberg  farther  up  tbe  Scbilt- 
acb-Thal,  traversing  the  romantic  defile  of  the  Berneck  and  passing  tbe 
ruins  of  Falkenttein  (lately  restored),  Berneck^  and  Remuteiny  and  the  Tevftfs- 
Kiiche^  to  (6  M.)  Thennmbronn  (2l3o  ft. ;  Krone).  There  we  may  turn  to 
the  W.,  cross  tbe  Benzehtne^  und  reach  tbe  Reichenbach-Thal^  in  wbicb  a  road 
descends  to  (6  M.)  Hornberg;  or,  turning  to  tbe  b.,  we  may  proceed  oyer 
the  Ruppertsberff  (2955  ft.)  to  (7  M.)  St.  Georgen  (p.  404). 

The  railway  (belonging  to  Wnrtemberg  from  this  point)  passes 
through  a  tunnel,  beyond  which  we  have  another  view  of  Schiltach. 
On  tbe  hill  above  the  tannel  are  the  mined  Schenkenbwg  and  a 
Cur-H6teL  —  We  ascend  the  valley  Of  the  Kintig.  — 11  M.  Schenken- 
zell  (1170ft.;  Sonne;  Ochs),  with  a  ruined  castle,  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kleine  Kinzig,in  the  pretty  valley  of  which  lies  (2  M.) 
Reinerzau  (Llnde).  The  line  next  passes  the  Krdhtnbad  (for  con- 
sumptives), crosses  the  rirer  several  times,  and  threads  two  tunnels. 

l4i/2  M.  Alpirsbach  (1425  ft. ;  Lowm-Post,  pens.  4-5  u(?,  very 
fair;  Schwan),  with  1400  infaab.,  who  carry  on  a  considerable  traffic 
in  timber  and  straw-hats,  is  the  first  station  In  Wnrtemberg.  The 
Protestant  church,  a  Romanesque  building  begun  in  the  11th  cent, 
with  a  Gothic  choir,  once  belonging  to  a  Benedictine  abbey,  contains 
the  tombs  of  a  Count  and  Countess  of  Zollern  and  late-Gothic  cloisters. 

2OY2  M.  Lo8sburg-Rodt^  near  the  source  of  the  Kinzig. 

241/2  M.  FrendenStadt.  —  The  railway-station  (2165  ft.)  lies  »/4  M. 
below  the  town.  —  Hotels.  (It  is  advisable  to  engage  rooms  beforehand  in 
tbe  summer.)  ^.^chwabzwald  Hotel,  at  tbe  station,  with  large  garden 
and  view,  R.  2-5,  B.  !>/♦,  X>.  3,  pens,  from  Q  Jf.  —  In  the  town:  ^Postj 
■'Krone,  new,  R.  from  li/z,  D.  2,  pens.  5-6  UK;  Rappen,  R.  IV2-2V2,  D.  2, 
pens,  from  4V2  UK;  Linde,  pens,  from  4V2  -#;  HeEZog  Petkdbioh,  new; 
R68SLE,  pens,  i-i^lt  J$.  —  Ccrhaus  Wai.dldst,  pens.  6-8  UK;  Corhads 
Palmenwald.  R.  IV2-3,  pens.  5-6  M;  Cobhaus  Waldeck,  on  the  road  to  tbe 
Kniebis,  similar  prices.  —  Lodgings  and  Pensions  abundant,  R.  6-9  Ji  per 
week.  —  V»itor$    Tax^  2  M. 

Freudenstadt  (2380  ft.),  a  loftily- situated  town  of  Wurtemberg 
(7100  inhab.),  with  iloth-factories  and  an  extensive  traffic  in  timber, 
was  founded  in  1699  by  Duke  Frederick  I.  of  Wurtemberg  for  expelled 
Salzburg  Protestants,  and  is  a  favonrite  snmmer-resort  The  plan 
of  the  town  is  unusual,  the  centre  being  occupied  by  a  large  open 
space  (now  partly  occupied  by  gardens),  surrounded  by  houses  with 
arcades,  and  adjoined  by  the  Raihhauf,  the  School^  the  Protestant 
Churchj  the  Oheramt^  and  the  new  Posit  Office.  The  curiously-con- 
structed church,  built  in  1601-8,  and  restored  in  1887-96,  consists 
of  two  naves  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  in  one  of  which  the  male, 
and  in  the  other  the  female  members  of  the  congregation  sit,  while 
the  altar  and  pulpit  are  placed  at  the  angle.  The  parapets  of  the 
galleries  are  embellished  with  stucco-reliefs  of  Biblical  subjects; 
the  Romanesque  font  was  brought  from  the  convent  of  Alpirsbach ; 
the  choir-stalls  date  from  1488;  the  crucifix  should  also  be  noticed 

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Black  Forest.  FURTWANGEN.  48.  Boute.   409 

(sacristan,  Traubeii-Str.  816,  behind  the  church).  Freudenstadt  is 
snrronnded  by  fine  pine-woods,  including  the  so-called  Palmenwcdd. 
On  the  Kienberg  (2526  ft.)  is  the  Herzog  Friedrich  Tower(view ;  inn). 

Branch-railway  from  Freadenstadt  to  KlosUr'Reichenbach  yi&  Baiers- 
1  ronn,  fee  p.  394.  —  Good  roads  lead  from  Fr«aden8tadt  to  the  W.  over  the 
Kniebis  (p.  599)  to  (12V2  M.)  Griesbach  (p.  399;  one-horse  carr.  10,  two-horse 
18 UT;  diligence  daily  in  2V4hrs.);  to  the  S.W.  vi&  the  Zwieselberg  to  (T'/zM.) 
Rippoldsau  (p.  407;  one-horse  carr.  7,  two-horse  i2J(). 

The  Wnrtemberg  railway  goes  on/passing  several  small  stations, 
to  Eutingen  (see  Baedeker's  Southern  Oermany). 

h.  From  Triberg  to  the  Simonsw&lder-Tlial  (  Waldkirch)  vik 

Furtwangen. 

Con^n  ilap^  p.  404. 

28  M.  From  Triberg  to  (9V2  M.)  FurttDongm,  diligence  twice  daily  in 
2'/4  hrs. ;  from  Fnrtwangen  to  (18V«  M.)  Waidkireh ,  diligence  twice  daily 
in  3»/4  hrs.  (back  in  4»/4  hrs.).  —  A  good  route  for  pedestrians  is  as 
follows:  from  Triberg  past  the  waterfalls  to  tbe  Wasserfall  Inn  and  via 
Schdnwald  to  the  forester's  honse  of  Martins-Capelle^  2Vs  hrs. ;  tbence  via 
the  Brend  to  OUtenbach,  2V4  hrs. ;  and  past  the  Zweribach  WcUer/all  to  the 
top  of  the  Kandelj  l^/t  hrs. 

Triberg  (2250  ft.),  see  p.  402.  The  road  to  Furtwangen  first 
ascends  the  *Unterthar  to  the  W. ,  and  at  the  Wallfahrts-Kirche 
(p.  403)  turns  to  the  left,  and  ascends  the  hill  in  long  windings, 
crossing  the  Gutach  before  reaching  the  (272  M.)  /wn  zum  Wasser- 
fall (p.  403;  the  carriage-road  in  the  Unterthal  leads  to  Schonach, 
see  p.  404).  About  ^2  M.  farther  on  are  the  Lirhde  Inn  and  the 
Pension  Beausitey  and  in  1^4  M.  more,  beyond  a  road  on  the  right 
leading  to  Schwarzenbach  and  Weissenbach  (see  below),  we  reach  — 

4V2M.  (from  Triberg)  Schonwald  (3260  ft. ;  ^Cur-Hdiel,  R.  3/4-2, 
D.  2,  pens.  4-6  Jf;  •Hirsch,  R.  II/4.3,  D.  2V2,  pens.  4-7  JT;  AdUr; 
Ocks^  a  summer-resort,  amid  meadows  and  pine-woods. 

The  above-mentioned  road  (1  M.  from  the  Wasserfall  Inn)  leads  via 
Selwarzenbach  and  Weiuenbaeh  to  the  (IVahr.)  fo tester's  house  of  Martint- 
Capelle  or  Martin^hof  (3646  ft.),  whence  routes  diverpe  to  Weissenbach, 
Neuweg  (Unterkatzensteig,  Furtwangen),  and  Griesbach  (Simonswald).  This 
point  may  he  reached  in  1  hr.  from  Schonwald  direct  by  footpaths  via 
Obevkatzentteig.  —  Footpaths  lead  to  the  S.  from  the  Martins-Oapelle,  along 
the  slope,  to  (a/*  hr.)  the  refuge-hut  on  the  *Brend  (3770  ft.),  one  of  the 
finest  points  of  view  in  this  part  of  the  Black  Forest.  —  Retracing  our 
steps  from  the  hut  for  a  few  yards,  we  descend  to  the  S.  to  O/t  hr.)  the 
farm  of  Alte  Eck  (3550ft.),  on  the  old  Eilpen  read,  2V2  M.  from  Furtwangen, 
41/2  M.  from  Simonswald,  and  3  M.  from  Giitenbach. 

Beyond  Schonwald  the  road  ascends  in  a  wide  curve.  Pedes- 
trians take  the  old  road ,  diverging  to  the  right  a  little  before  the 
last  houses  of  Schonwald,  and  joining  the  new  road  by  the  (Y2  t^'O 
inn  Zum  Kreuz,  at  the  Escheck  (3370  ft.),  or  the  top  of  the  pass, 
which  forms  the  watershed  between  the  Rhine  and  the  Danube. 
The  new  road  descends  circuitously.  Pedestrians  may  shorten  the 
distance  considerably  by  taking  the  steep  old  road,  which  diverges  to 
the  right  at  the  kilometre-stone  marked  10.5. 

5  M.  (from  Schonwald)  Purtwangen  (2800ft.;  Sonne,  Bother 
Ocha^  both  very  fair,  R.  iV2-'^V2^  P^ns.  4-6  ,£;  Bahnhpfs-Hf*ieO,  on 

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410   RouU  48.  aCTENBAOH.  Black  Forest. 

the  Brege ,  a  prosperous  little  town  with  5000  inhab.,  where  the 
best  clocks  in  the  Black  Forest  are  manufactured.  The  'Gewerbe- 
halle',  or  industrial  hall,  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  old 
Black  Forest  clocks,  from  the  end  of  the  16th  cent,  onwards  (adm. 
60  pf.).  There  is  a  training-school  for  wood -carvers  and  clock- 
inakers,  and  another  for  straw-plaiting.  New  church.  —  Railway 
to  Donaueschingen,  see  p.  405. 

To  the  (IVa  hr.)  Brend  via.  the  Alte  Kck,  see  p.  409.  —  Following  the 
Simonswald  road  for  about  1  M.,  then  the  Linach  road  for  V2  M.,  and 
beyond  (he  Bregbaeh,  where  the  road  bends  to  the  left,  taking  the  foot- 
path ascending  over  the  Kaltenherberg  (3375  ft.),  we  reach  (7</b  M.)  Waldan 
(Traube ;  Sonne\  a  favourite  summer-resort.  Gtood  echo  at  the  neighbouring 
Laehh&usle.  Thence  down  the  Langenordrach-Thal  (also  reached  direct 
from  the  Kaltenherben;)  to  (4V«  M.)  the  railway-station  of  Holzlebruck,  near 
Nenstadt;  comp.  p.  415. 

The  road  to  Simonswald  and  Waldkirch  (I8V2  M.)  ascends  ftrom 
Furtwangen  to  the  S.W.  About  l*/4  M.  from  the  church  of  Furt- 
wangen  a  road  diverges  to  the  left  to  Linach  (see  above).  About 
500  yds.  farther  on  the  Simonswald  road  turns  abruptly  to  the  E. 
Qeft).  Pedestrians  choose  the  route  across  the  hill  to  the  right  and  at 
the  Neue  Eck  (3230  ft. ;  Freiburger  Hof)  rejoin  the  road,  the  farther 
windings  of  which  may  also  be  cut  off.  In  about  IV2  ^^'  ^^  reach 
(41/2  M.  from  Furtwangen)  Gfitenbach  (2840  ft. ;  Zur  Hochhurg, 
R.  1-1  V2>  pens.  4-41/2  Jf-i  very  fair;  Post^  unpretending),  another 
busy,  clock -making  place,  with  1300  inhab.  and  a  pretty  church. 
A  way-post,  beyond  the  Post  Inn,  indicates  the  route ,  descending 
to  the  left,  to  Wildgutach  and  St.  MSlrgen  (2^/2  ^rs* ;  comp.  p.  413). 

The  road,  which  is  partly  hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  continues 
towards  the  W.,  then  turns  to  the  N.,  and  descends  In  long 
windings,  affording  numerous  beautiful  views,  into  the  valley  Of  the 
Wildgutach.  A  footpath  cuts  off  the  widest  curve  (about  iy4  M.  from 
Giitenbach),  and  rejoins  the  road  at  the  Stemen  Inn  (2036  ft.), 
about  3  M.  from  Giitenbach. 

To  THE  ZwBBiBAOH  Fall,  which  is  seen  beyond  the  Wildgutach-Thal, 
from  the  road,  IV2  hr.  We  take  the  footpath  to  the  left  a  few  minutes 
beyond  the  Stern  en  Inn;  5  min.  cross  the  Wildgutach;  5  min.  cross  the 
Zweribach  and  proceed  towards  the  high-lying  cottage  and  across  the 
valley;  35  min.  saw-mill;  6  min.  cross  the  brook  and  ascend  on  the  right 
bank ;  20  min.  recross  to  the  left  bank,  and  ascend  through  a  farm  to  the 
(1/4  hr.)  waterfall.  The  Zweribach  Fall  (2525  ft.)  consists  of  an  upper  and 
a  lower  fall,  which,  except  at  the  height  of  summer,  present  a  charming 
picture  in  a  romantic  frame.  A  rope  is  attached  to  the  rocks  to  assist 
visitors  to  ascend  to  the  upper  fall.  —  The  path  (guide-posts)  continues 
to  ascend  to  the  (1  hr.)  PlattenJiof  (3220  ft. ;  restaurant),  and  thence  leads 
through  wood  to  (»/4  hr.)  a  wooden  hut,  where  we  cross  the  carriage-road. 
Following  the  direction  of  the  latter  and  keeping  to*^  the  right  when  the 
route  divides  (way-posts),  we  reach  the  summit  of  the  Kandel  (p.  411),  in 
IV2  hr.  from  the  Plattenhof. 

About  11/4  M.  farther  down  the  valley,  about  13/4hr.'s  walk  from 
Giitenbach,  and  beyond  another  path  descending  on  the  left  to  the 
Zweribach  Fall,  is  the  inn  Zum  Engel  (1470  ft.),  at  the  junction 
of  the  road  with  the  old  Kilpen  Road  (p.  409). 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Black  Forest.  WALDKIRCtt.  48.  Route.   411 

As  we  descend  the  picturesque  Simonswald  Valley  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  road  increase.  The  villages  of  Ober-,  4W-,  and  Vnter- 
Simonswald  consist  of  numerous  scattered  houses.  On  the  right, 
by  the  church  of  Ober-8imonswald,  1  M.  from  the  Engel  Inn,  is  a 
finger-post,  indicating  the  way  through  the  Griesbach-Thal  to  Schon- 
wald  and  Triberg  (p.  409).  About  2^/ 4  M.  farther  on  lies,  the  inn  Zur 
Krone,  or  Post  (pens.  4-5^2  •^)>  ^i^ar  the  prettily-situated  church 
(1225  ft.)  of  Alt-Simonswald.  A  way-post  near  the  Krone  Inn  in- 
dicates a  broad  path  loading ,  nearly  the  whole  way  among  'wood, 
through  the  Ettersbacher-Thal  to  (2  hrs.)  the  Kandel  (see  below); 
after  about  1  hr.  it  ascends  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream.  Passing 
Bleibach  (p.  412),  the  road  reaches  the  Elzthal,  about  11  M.  from 
Giitenbach ;  thence  railway  to  Waldkirch  (see  below). 

i.  Waldldroh  and  the  Elzthal. 

Fboh  Dknzlinokn  to  Elzach,  I2V2M.,  railway  in  1V4  lir.  (numeroua 
local  trains  to  Waldkirch  in  20min. ;  fares  60,  40  pf.).  —  Road  from  Elsach 
to  (5M.)  Ober-Fi'echttJMl,  and  thence  to  (5V2M.)  SteingrUn  in  the  €htiaeh-T?u»l. 

DentUngen,  see  p.  377.  —  The  line  crosses  the  Elz,  Near 
(21/2  M.)  Bttchholz  a  strong  variety  of  wine  is  produced.  On  the 
opposite  (left)  bank  of  the  Elz  are  the  baths  of  Suggenthal  (816  ft. ; 
Reich's  Inn,  very  fair,  pens,  from  41/2  •^)- 

5  M.  Waldkirch.  —  Hotels.  Kastblbdbg,  at  the  station,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Schlossberg.  —  In  the  town,  V»  M.  from  the  station :  *L6we  (Post), 
R.  IV2,  B.  3/4,  D.  2V4,  pens.  41/2-5  Jt;  Bbbstock,  with  brewery;  Adlbb; 
Kbone,  all  near  the  market-place.  —  Garden-Restaurant  zur  Arche,  near  the 
station.  —  Batfu  in  the  Elz. 

Waldkirch  (900  ft.),  a  busy  and  prettily  -  situated  little  town 
of  5000  inhab.  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Elz,  with  sUk  and  cotton 
factories  and  glass  and  stone-polishing  works,  is  a  favourite  summer- 
resort  on  account  of  its  picturesque  environs.  The  station  lies  on 
the  right  bank,  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schloss- 
berg (1185  ft.),  which  is  crowned  "with  the  ruin  of  Kastelburg,  and 
may  be  ascended  in  20  minutes.  —  Among  the  other  view-points 
in  the  vicinity  are  the  Schdnzle,  to  the  S.  (to  the  highest  pavilion, 
Y2  lirO>  "whence  the  walk  may  be  extended  to  Dettenbach  (there  and 
back  in  23/4-3  hrs.);  and  the  Thomas-Hutte  on  the  Kleine  Kandel- 
felSj  reached  in  IY4  hr.  by  woodland  paths  passing  the  ruin  of 
Schwarzenberg. 

The  ascent  of  the  *Eandel  (4075  ft.)  may  be  made  from  Wald- 
kirch in  2V2-3V2  ^rs.  The  road  leads  past  the  Rathhaus  to  the  S.E. 
end  of  the  town ,  and  after  ^/^  M.  forks ,  the  left  branch  leading  to 
the  HolzpUtze  and  the  Kandel ,  the  right  to  Altersbach  and  the 
Kandel.  Pedestrians  also  ascend  the  road  through  the  Altersba^sh  (or 
AlpersbacK)  Thai,  then  follow  the  way-posts  ('Damenpfad',  *Fran- 
zosenweg'),  and  lastly  mount  in  zigzags  by  the  rugged  Kandel- 
fels.  On  the  top  is  a  covered  belvedere  and  a  direction-table,  in- 
dicating the  chief  points  in  the  view ,  which  includes  the  central 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


412   Route  48.  ELZACH.  Black  Forest. 

Black  Forest  as  far  as  the  Rauhe  Alb,  the  Vosges,  and  the  Jura. 
About  10  mlD.  from  the  top,  to  the  N.,  is  a  comfortable  Raathaus 
(R.  1  uir  20,  B.  80  pf.;  telephone  to  Waldkirch). 

The  descentXmay  be  made  on  the  K.E.  to  Onter'Simomwald  (p.  411); 
on  the  E.  via  the  Plattmhof  and  the  Zweribaeh  Fall  to  the  Engel  Inn  in 
Ober-Simoruwald  or  to  Oatenbach  (p.  410);  or  on  the  S.  to  8t.  Pster(p.  413). 

From  Waldkirch  through  the  Simonswalder-Thal  (p.  410)  to  Onunbach^ 
4V2hps.;  thence  to  Furtwangen^  iV2hr.;  comp.  p.  410. 

From  Waldkirch  through  the  Simonswalder-Thal  (p.  410)  to  Marliiu- 
Capelle^  5  hrs. ;  thence  to  Triberg  via  SchOntoald^  2V2hr8.;  comp.  p.  409. 

*rhe  railway  crosses  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Elz,  which  it  thence- 
forth follows.  —  6V2  M.  Kollnau  (1227  ft.) ,  with  large  cotton- 
factories.  —  7  M.  Outachj  with  its  silk- factories ,  lies  below  the 
influx  of  the  Wilde  Gutach  (to  the  Simonswald  valley,  see  p.  410). 

71/2  M.  Bleibach  (985  ft. ;  Sonne),  with  an  old  church.  The  village 
extends  on  the  right  to  the  Simonswald  road. 

The  Hdmteberg  (29<5  ft.;  chapel  on  the  summit),  ascended  hence  in 
274  hrs.,  commands  a  fine  view;  the  descent  to  the  Krone  Inn,  at  Unter- 
Simonswald  (p.  4L1),  may  be  made  in  IV2  hr. 

91/2  M.  Niederwinden;  IOV2M.  Oberwinden. 

I2V2M.  Elzaoh  (1190  ft.;  Zum  Bahnhof,  clean;  Uirsch)  mth 
1200  inhab.,  has  a  16th  cent,  church  and  a  silk-factory.  —  From 
Elzach  to  flfaslach,  see  p.  401. 

The  valley  now  contracts.  We  proceed  on  foot  via  Unter-Prech- 
thai  to  the  Sonne  Inn  in  Ober-Prechthal  (J  510  ft. ;  5  M.  from  Elzach), 
whence  a  carriage-road  leads  to  the  right  through  the  Uintere  Prech- 
ihal  (Zum  Gemeindesegen)  to  Schonach  (p.  404;  15  M.  from  Elzach). 
The  main  road  continues  to  ascend  to  the  N.E.  via  Landwaeser^ 
whence  the  Schwedenschanze  on  the  Eirschlache  (2760  ft. ;  ^/^  hr. 
from  Ober-Prechthal;  fine  view)  may  be  visited,  crosses  the  water- 
shed between  the  Elzthal  and  the  Gutach-Thal  In  long  curves  (short- 
cuts for  walkers),  and  joins  the  Gutach-Thal  road  at  the  houses  of 
(5  V2  M.)  Steingrun  (Rossle),  1^/4  M.  below  Hornberg  (p.  401). 

k.  Hollenthal  Bailway  (Ereiburg  to  DonaueBchingen).  Eeldberg. 

Comp.  JfapSy  pp.  i04:^  416. 

From  Freibubo  to  Donadeschisgen,  MVa  M.,  railw«y  in  ca.  3hr8.  View 
generally  to  the  right,  i.e.  opposite  the  side  by  which  the  carriages  are 
entered  at  Freiburg.  —  The  first  part  (cf^mpJeted  in  1887)  of  Ihe  *H61Ienthal 
Railway  commands  for  a  short  distance  as  grand  and  beautiful  scenery 
as  any  part  of  the  older  Schwarzwald  line.  A  day's  excursion  from  Freiburg 
may  be  conveniently  arranged  as  follows:  take  the  trtAn  to HOlMeig (^.  Aii) \ 
walk  through  the  Ravenca-Schlucht  to  (IVahr.)  iKn<«r«oW«n  (p.  414) i  take 
the  train  tu  the  Titisee  (p.  415)  and  back  to  HincTuprung  (^.  414);  walk  via 
the  (10  min.)^ Hirschsprung  to  (V4  hr.)  Himmelreich  (p.^413).  The  ascent  of 
the  Feldberg  is  also  a  day's  excursion:  to  the  Titisee  by  rail  in  IVz-l^A  hr., 
thence  on  foot  to  the  top  of  the  Feldberg  in  SVs  hrs.,  descent  to  Posthalde 
2V4  hrs.,  rail  to  Freiburg  Ihr.  20  minutes.  —  From  the  Feldberg  to  Schluchtee 
3V4  hrs. .  thence  to  St.  Blcuien  23/4  hrs. 

The  inns  near  the  Feldberg,  particularly  at  Titisee,  are  often  over- 
crowded in  summer,  and  rooms  should  be  secured  beforehand. 

Starting  from  the  principal  station  at  Freiburg  (p.  377),  the 
train  crosses  the  Dreham,  and  halts  at  (2  M.)  Wiehre^  the  S.  sub- 
Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Black  Forest.  KIECHZARTEN  iS.  liuuie.    -413 

urb  of  Freiburg  (p.  383).  It  continues  to  ascend  the  broad  valley 
of  the  Dreisam  to  (88/4  M.)  Liitenweiler  (1040  ft.),  with  a  chalybeate 
spring,  the  station  for  Ebnet,  a  village  with  an  old  ch&teau,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Dreisam.  —  In  the  Kappeler-Thal,  to  the  right, 
the  ore  mined  on  the  Schau-ins-land  (p.  384)  is  smelted. 

7  M.  Kirohzarten  (1285  ft.;  Restaurant  zur  Post,  at  the  sta- 
tion; AdUr,  LowCy  in  the  village,  V4M.  from  the  station),  a  village 
with  800  inhab.,  8/4  M.  to  ^he  N.W.  of  which,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Dreisam,  is  Zarten,  with  traces  of  the  Roman  fort  Tarodunum. 

Fbom  Kibchzartbn  to  St.  Mabosn,  diligence  twice  daily;  once  via 
Buchenbach  (sec  below)  and  once  vi&  St.  Peter  (12  M. ;  in  3V«  hrs.).  The 
latter  ronte  passes  Zarten  (see  above)  and  at  Stegen  enters  the  valley  of 
the  Eschbach^  which  it  ascends  to  (TVa  M.)  the  health-resort  of  St.  Peter 
(2366  ft., ;  Hir*ch\  rebuilt  since  a  fire  in  1899,  with  a  Benedictine  abbey, 
now  a  Catholic  seminary,  and  an  interesting  church.  Thence  over  the 
hills  to  (4V2  M.)  St.  Hargen  (see  below).  —  Pedestrians,  starting  from  the 
station  of  Eirchzarten,  walk  to  the  K.E.  via  the  Brandenburg  Inn  to  Burg, 
and  thence  ascend  the  Ibentfuil  vi§,  the  Lindenberg  (2670  ft.;  pilgrimage- 
chapel,  with  view)  to  St.  Peter,  in  3  hrs.  —  From  St.  Peter  the  Kandel 
(p.  411)  may  be  ascended  in  2  hrs.  We  follow  the  road  running  to  the  N. 
into  the  Olotter-Thal  for  about  »/4  M. ;  then,  at  the  Eckle,  we  turn  to  the 
right  at  the  guide-post  and  proceed  via  the  Haldenhof  to  the  S&gendobel 
(inn).    Thence  we  ascend  to  the  N.  (guide-posts). 

Fbom  Eibchzabten  to  Todtnau,  13  M.,  diligence  twice  daily  in  4V4hrs. 
(returning  in  3V4  hrs.).  The  road  at  first  ascends  the  broad  valley  between 
the  Brugga  and  the  Oiterbach.  At  (21/2  M.)  Oberried  (1530  ft. ;  Stem  or  Post, 
very  fair),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zastler-Thalg(jp.' MS),  a  wood  is  entered; 
farther  on,  on  a  lofty  rock,  the  ruins  of  the  Schneeburg.  About  3  M.  £rom 
Oberkirch  the  St.  Wilhelmx-Thal  (p.  418)  diverges  to  the  left.  The  memorial 
stone  known  as  the  Nothsohrei  (BV2  M.  from  Eirchzarten)  marks  the  cul- 
minating point  (3300  ft. ;  p  334 ;  Cw-Hdtel  Waldheim)  of  the  route ;  a  new 
road  to  the  right  leads  to  the  Halde  (p.  384).    The  main  road  (comp.  Map, 

E.  416)  now  quits  the  wood  and  descends  through  the  upper  Wiesen-Thal 
y  Muggenbrunn  (Gniner  Baum;  1/4  hr.  farther  on,  finger-post  on  the  left 
indicating  the  way  to  Todtnauberg.  p.  426)  and  Aftersteg  to  (5V4  M.)  Todtnau 
(p.  426).  Between  Aftersteg  and  Todtnau  a  footpath  diverges  to  the  Todtnau- 
berg Water/al  (see  p.  426). 

The  railway  crosses  the  Rothbach.  —  81/2  M.  Himmelreich 
(1490  ft.),  a  farm  with  an  inn  at  the  entrance  of  the  Hollen-Thal 
proper.  A  guide-post  opposite  the  station  indicates  the  way  to  the 
(3/4  hr.)  Frauensteigfels  (2540  ft.),  which  commands  an  attractive 
view  of  the  valley  of  the  Dreisam.  Thence  to  the  Nessellache 
(p.414),3/^hr. 

Fbom  Himmelbeich  to  St.  Maboen,  8V2  M.,  diligence  daily  in  2V2  hrs. 
(starting  from  Eirchzarten).!!' Pedestrians,  following  -  the  highroad,  pro- 
ceed via  (1  M.)  Buchenbach  (1470  ft.;  Adler;  Hirsch),  to  the  left  of  which 
is  the  ruined  castle  of  Wisneck,  and  ascend  the  Wagensteig-Thal  (numerous 
shortcuts)  to  (6  M.)  St.  K&rgen  (2930  ft. ;  Hirsch;  Krone,* Tpenaion  in|both 
4UV),  a  frequented  health-resort,  with  iCXX)  inhab.  and  a  conspicuous  church 
with  two  towers.  —  A  picturesque  road  ascends  in  IV4  hr.  tOffthe  Thumer 
(3320  ft. ;  inn),  and  then  descends  to  (8V2  M.)  ih.^'*  Ocuthof  turn  LOwen  at 
Breitnau  (p.  415).  An^altemative  route  leads  from  the  Thumer  vi&  the 
Weisstannhdhe  (p.  415)  to  (3>^hrs.)  TiHsee  (p.  415).  —  Picturesque  route 
from  St.  Margen  through  the  Wildgutach- Thai  to  (T^/jM.)  GUUnbach  (p.  410). 

The  train  now  passes  the  straggling  village  of  Falktnsteig  (Zwei 
Tauben  j  Lowe,  pens.  3*/2-4.if),  crosses  the  Engebach,  passes  through 


414    Route  48.  U()LLSTEIG.  Black  Forest. 

a  tunnel  below  the  ruin  ot  Falkensteinj  and  enters  the  HdlUn-Faas, 
the  finest  part  of  the  valley,  a  defile  with  towering  and  overhanging 
rocks,  partly  overgrown  with  firs  and  underwood.  The  Une  passes 
through  the  Lower  and  Upper  Hirschsprung  Tunf%el.  The  road  wind- 
ing through  the  defile,  side  by  side  with  the  railway  and  the  forming 
Rothbachj  was  constructed  by  the  Austrian  government  in  1770,  and 
was  shortly  afterwards  traversed  by  the  Archduchess  Marie  Antoi- 
nette when  on  her  way  to  France  to  marry  the  Dauphin,  the  future 
Louis  XVI.  The  pass  also  witnessed  the  celebrated  retreat  of  Moreau 
(Oct.,  1796),  when  pursued  by  the  Archduke  Charles. 

The  HoUen-Thal  now  expands.    11  M.  Hirschsprung  (1835  ft,). 

A  footpath,  leading  to  the  right  4  min.  above  the  station,  ascenda  throagh 
the  Laia>brtmnendobel  to  (tV4  hr.)  the  fine  view-point  of  Nesstttache  (3420  ft. ; 
rfmts.). 

Beyond  this  station  the  train  ascends  for  about  41/2  M.  by  means 
of  a  ^rack-and-pinion*  arrangement  (no  change  of  carriages  necess- 
ary). After  passing  through  a  tunnel  660  yds.  long  we  reach  (13  M.) 
Foflthalde(2155ft.;  Adler^  very  fair),  pleasantly  situated. 

From  the  Adler  Inn  to  Breitnau  (p.  415)  vii  the  Neuho/j  i'/i  hr.  A  little 
short  of  the  Neuhof  a  pretty  forest-path  leads  to  the  left  to  the  (I'/z  lir.) 
Nessellache  (see  above).  —  A  path,  turning  to  the  right  at  the  Neuhof,  out- 
side the  wood,  leads  to  the  Kaisencacht  (3420  ft.)  and  the  Ptibe^/'e^  (3325  ft.), 
whence  we  may  descend  to  Hollsteig.  —  Ascent  of  the  Feldl^erg  from  Post- 
halde,  see  p.  416. 

14  M.  HdUsteig  (2420  ft) ,  the  stotion  for  the  weU-known 
♦5tcrnm  Inn  (R.  18/4-21/2  Ji,  D.  21/2,  pens.  6-61/2  ^),  ^^^^  l>aths 
tnd  several  dependencies,  which  lies  on  the  road  80  ft.  below.  It 
is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  in  the  Hollen-Thal  and  for 
an  ascent  of  the  Feldberg  (p.  416  ;  numerous  finger-posts). 

A  footpath  constructed  by  the  landlord  of  the  ^Sternen",  beginning 
opposite  the  inn  and  passing  the  post-offlce,  leads  under  the  railway-viaduct 
to  the  *Ravenna  SchlucJtt,  a  vvrlld  ravine  with  a  fine  cascade.  After  12  min. 
the  path  forks:  the  left  branch  leads  to  the  upper  Ravenna-Thai  (Breitnau, 
p.  4l5);  or  we  may  cross  the  entrenchment  to  the  road,  which  'we  follow 
back  to  the  inn  (in  all  ^fi-i  hr.).  Or  we  may  prolong  the  walk  toHinter- 
zarten  (IVzhr.  in  all).  —  A  pleasant  route  from  the  *Sternen'  to  Hinter- 
zarten  is  as  follows :  we  keep  to  the  highroad  for  V2  M.  ^  beyond  the 
bridge,  where  it  makes  a  sharp  curve  to  the  left,  we  take  the  road  to  the 
right,  which  ascends  the  picturesque  Ldffel-Thal^  now  traversed  by  the  rail- 
way, to  (IV2  M.)  the  first  houses  of  ffinterzarten  (see  below). 

The  railway  crosses  the  Ravenna  ScMuchi  (view  of  it  to  the  left) 
by  a  lofty  viaduct,  while  the  road  ascends  the  Hollsteig  in  bold  wind- 
ings. The  last  view  of  the  Hollen-Thal  is  cut  short  by  a  tunnel 
(275  yds.  long),  whence  we  emerge  in  the  Loffel-Thal.  The  train 
then  passes  through  the  seventh  and  last  tunnel  and  reaches  the 
topjofithe  plateau  and  the  station  of  — 

15V2  M.  Hinterzarten  (2900;  h.-^mtel  Bahnhof,  Linde^  at  the 
station ;  ^ Adler,  near  the  church,  pens.  5  Jf ;  Weisses  Rossle,  V2  M. 
to  the  N.W.,  pens.  Ajfj  lodgings),  a  favourite  summer- resort,  where 
the  rack-aiid-piniou  railway  ends.  —  The  road  passing  the  church 
leads  via  Erlenbruck  (3080  ft. ;  Schwan),  pleasantly  situated  among 


Black  Forest.  TITISKE.  46'.  Route.   415 

firs,  to  the  Titisee  and  Barenthal  (see  below).  The  plateau  is  stud- 
ded with  farm-houses. 

About  V4  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Weisses  Rossle  a  road,  diverging  to  the 
N.  from  the  HSUen-Thal  road,  leads  via  Oedmbach  to  the  (S  H.)  Gatihof  turn 
Ldteen  in  Steig  (3265  ft.).  Hence  we  may  proceed  to  the  left  to  (V4  hr.) 
Breitnau  (Ereuz)  and  (V2  hr.)  the  Hochwart  (3680  ft),  with  an  old  en- 
trenchment (view  of  the  Alps).  Or  we  may  go  to  the  right  to  (1  hr.)  the 
WeitstannMhe  (see  below).  —  From  the  L6we  to  the  Thumer  (p.  413),  I'A  hr. 

Ascent  of  the  Feldberg  from  Hinterzarten,  see  p.  il6. 

18  M.  Titisee  (2815  ft;  Bar,  at  the  station,  R.  13/4-3V2,  B.  1, 
D.  21/2  J(,  suitable  for  passing  trayellers)  lies  about  V4  M.  from 
the  small  lake  of  the  same  name,  on  the  bank  of  which  lie  the 
Schwarzwald  Hotel  and  the  *H8tel  Titisee  (R.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  IV2, 
S.  1 V2J  pens.  6-8  Jf),  two  pleasant  hotels  with  gardens  on  the  lake, 
and  both  often  full  in  summer.  — The  Titwe«(2780  ft.  j  area  266  acres ; 
130  ft  deep),  occupying,  like  all  the  Schwarzwald  lakes,  the  bed  of 
a  former  glacier,  is  fed  by  the  Seebach  (p.  416)  and  drained  by  the 
Gutach,  called  Wutach  farther  down.  The  surrounding  hills  are 
partly  wooded. 

At  the  old  Seebauemhof,  a  few  min.  from  the  Hotel  Titisee,  on 
the  Lenzkirch  and  Schluchsee  road  (p.  419)  which  skirts  the  £.  side  of  the 
lake,  the  steep  old  road  to  (40  min.)  Saig  diverges  to  the  left  (new  road, 
see  p.  419).  Baig  (3250  ft.;  Ocha,  with  baths,  pens,  from  4»/2  Jf,  very  fair) 
is  a  summer-resort.  —  From  the  first  bend  on  the  road.  7  min.  from  the 
Seebanemhof,  a  forest-path  leads  to  the  left  to  (26  min.)  the  lonely  Kalte 
Herherge^  on  the  Saig  and  Keastadt  road.  Grossing  the  latter  diagonally,  we 
ascend  in  V2  l»r-  *»  the  wooded  summit  of  the  ♦Hochflrst  (39(X)  ft.),  on  which 
is  a  view-tower  with  mountain-indicator  (adm.  20  pf.  •,  rfmts.).  —  From  Saig 
to  the  Hodifirst,  ^f*  hr. ;  from  Neustadt,  see  below. 

At  the  first  important  bend  on  the  Lenzkirch  road  (3156  ft.),  2  M.  from 
the  station  and  about  IV4  M.  from  the  Hotel  Titisee,  is  a  notice-board  on  a 
tree  to  the  right,  indicating  the  footpath  to  the  Feldherg.  This  path  (very 
muddy  in  wet  weather)  leads  to  (IV4  hr.)  the  'Adler',  in  the  Baren-Thal 
CP.  417). 

Ascent  of  the  Feldberg^  see  p.  416  j  post-gig  daily  (2^/2  Jf ;  carr.  and  pair 
18  Jt,  returning  via  Menzenschwand  and  St.  Blasien,  33  JT), 

Another  good  point  of  view  is  the  Weisstannhdhe  (3910  ft.),  2  hrs.  to 
the  N.W.  of  Titisee.  From  the  station  we  follow  the  Hinterziurten  road ; 
12  min  ,  ascend  to  the  right  (way-post) ;  60  min.,  Heiliger  Brunnen^  with  chapel 
and  inn;  thence  we  follow  the  way-posts,  turning  to  the  left  at  the  top. 

Farther  on  the  train  crosses  the  Wutach  or  Gutach  and  skirts 
the  spurs  of  the  Hochflrst  (see  above).  —  20  M.  Holzlebruek,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Langerhordracher- Thai,  in  which  lies  (572M.)Waldau 
(p.  410).  Near  Holzlebruck  is  the  Posthdusle,  with  brewery  and 
garden-restaurant. 

22 M.  HeuBtadt  (2640  ft. ;  Adler-Post;  Krone,  both  very  fair; 
Railway  Hotel),  an  ancient  town,  with  3300  inhab.,  engaged  in 
clock-making,  tanning,  and  gold-embroidery,  is  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Reiehenhach  and  the  Gutach. 

Walks  may  be  taken  to  the  (1  M.)  PosOUhule  (see  above)  ^  to  the  (1  far.) 
Hochfir$t  (see  above),  by  the  Saig  road  for  V«^r-i  *hen  footpath  to  the  left  ^ 
and  vi&  Rudenberg  to  (lV2hr.)Friedenweiler  (2966  ft.  ^  *Cvrhav$,  R.  1^,  pens. 
4V2-6V2  'M),  a  favourite  summer-resort.  On  the  last  excursion  we  follow 
the  Lofflngen  road  for  3  M.  and  then  diverge  to  the  left  (omn.  1  J(f,  ca 
with  one  horse  4,  two  horses  6  Ji).  r^^^^^T^ 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


416   Route  48.  FELDBERG.  Black  Fortsl. 

From  r31V2  M.)  Kappd  (2578  ft.)  a  bianch-line  to  Roundoff 
(see  below)  has  been  planned.  The  railway  crosses  the  Gutach  and 
traverses  four  tunnels.  Beyond  (36  M.)  Rbthenhach  (2722  ft.)  we 
see  a  new  pilgrimage-church  (Zum  Schneekreuze)  on  the  left.  — 
39  M.  Loffingen  (2630  ft.;  Lowe;  Sonne),  with  llOOinhab.,  is 
mentioned  as  early  as  886.  —  4O1/2  M.  ReUelfingen  (2567  ft.). 

Loffingen  and  Bei^elfingen  are  the  stations  for  Bad  Boll  (2031  ft. ;  Gur- 
haus,  pens.  5V2-7  Jf)i  whieb  is  situated  in  the  romantic  gr  i^e  of  the  Wutach, 
33/4  M.  from  the  former  and  2>/4  M.  from  the  latter  (carnages  to  meet  the 
train  must  be  ordered  in  advance).  Boll  is  sarrounded  with  pine-woods  (good 

Saths),  and  in  the  vicinity  are  a  ruined  ca  tie  and  some  waterfalls.  —  About 
M.  to  the  S.  is  the  litUe  town  of  Bonndorf  (2778  ft. ;  Hirsch),  reached  from 
Kappel  by  dUigeoce  twice  a  day  (ISs/t  M.,  in  31/4  hrs.)  vi&  Lenzkireh  (p.  419). 

42^2  Bachheim;  45  M.  Vnadingen.  —  The  train  passes  over  a 
viaduct  and  through  a  tunnel.  —  47  M.  Doggingen  (2453  ft);  50  M. 
Hansen  vor  Wald;  5272  M.  Hufingen^  \»ith  1700  inhab.  and  an  old 
castle,  now  converted  into  a  hospital.  —  541/2  M.  Donmieschingen 
(p.  405). 

The  Feldbebg  may  be  ascended  from  the  HoUen-Thal  by  various 
routes,  all  indicated  by  floger-posts  and  coloured  marks.  The  easiest 
routes  are  those  from  Hinterzarten  and  Titisee. 

Ascent  of  the  Feldbeko  from  Kikghzabtbn  rii  the  Oiertberg^  or  from 
the  station  of  Himhelbeich  vi&  Sonneek^  HitUenealdkopf,  and  the  Rhtken  (see 
below),  4V2  brs.  in  each  case.  The  descent  towards  Freiburg  is  the  most 
picturesque. 

Ascent  of  the  Fkldbbbo  pkom  thb  Posthaldb  (p.  414),  3^/4  hrs.  The 
footpath  crosses  the  H511bach  beyond  the  Adler  Inn  and  ascends  (white 
marks),  steep  at  first,  in  view  of  the  Ravenna  viadnct,  to  (40  min.)  the 
W.  farms  of  Albersbach  (to  the  left,  a  path  to  the  Fursatz,  see  below).  It 
then  proceeds  vi&  the  Haspelsage  to  the  (Vs  hr.)  Loehrmte  (3816  ft.)  and 
(V4  hr.)  the  cottages  on  the  Rinken  (3800  ft.).  The  road  forks  here  (\xrgt 
Rnger-post)  *,  we  follow  the  left  branch,  soon  diverging  by  a  path  to  the 
right,  which  ascends  vi&  the  Baldentceger  VieHh&tte  to  the  top  in  iVthr. 
Or  we  may  diverge  to  the  left,  below  the  Scebuck,  by  the  so-caUed  *Fel8en- 
Weg%  leading  to:,the  (IV4  hr)  Feldberg  Inn. 

AsoENT  OF  THE  Fbldbebo  fbom  HOllsteig  (p.  414) ,  3-8Vf  hrs.  Wc 
may  either  take  the  footpath  indicated  by  the  notice-board  at  the  Stcrnen 
Inn  or  follow  the  road  for  Vs  V*  &°d  ascend  to  the  right  by  the  fineer-post 
('fiber  Bisten',  etc.).  We  ascend  rapidly  through  wood.  At  the  (lOmin.) 
BUten  (3400Jt.)  we  join  the  road  from  Hinterzarten,  which  we  now  follow, 
cutting  off  one  of  its  bends  by  a  footpath.  At(l  hr.)  the  iPar<a<«  (3675  ft.)  the 
road  fork!),  the  right  branch  leading  to  Lochriitte  and  the  Feldberg  (see 
above),  the  left  to  Zastler.  We  follow  the  latter.  »/4  hr.  Rt^fmkiltU 
(3546  ft.).  A  large^  way-post  here  points  out  the  routes  to  various  points. 
We  follow  the  path  to  the  left  (in  the  direction  we  have  hitherto  fol- 
lowed), cross  (20  min.)  the  Seetbaeh  by  stepping-stones,  and  soon  reach  the 
Feldsee  (3650  ft.),  a  gloomy  little  lake  enclosed  by  precipitous  pine  clad 
mountains.  Thence  an  easy^  zigzag  path  ascends  to  the  Feldberg  Inn, 
V^-'A  hr. 

AsoKNT  OF  THE  Feldbbrq  FROM  HiNTEBZABTEN,  2V2-2V4  hrs.  We  may 
follow  the  highroad  to  the  right  from  the  station,  and  after  a  few  hundred 
yards,  at  a  flnger-post  CAlbersbach,  Feldberg'  \  2886  ft.),  follow  the  road 
in  a  straight  Erection,  which  joins  the  above-described  route  at  (Vs  hr.) 
the  Bistm."*  Or  we  may  follow  the  road  to  Bi-lenhmei  (p.  414),  ViM.  be- 
yond which  is  a  finger-post  (right),  indicating  the  forest-path  to  Baren- 
thal  and  Feldherg  (see  p.  417). 

The  good  road  from  the  Titisee  to  the  Feldberg  (9  M.;  carr. 


y  Google 


y  Google 


Black  Forest.  FELDBERO.  48.  Route,   417 

and  diligeuce,  see  p.  415)  diverges  to  the  S.  frogi  the  road  coming 
from  the  station,  a  little  on  this  side  of  the  Schwarzwald  Hotel.  After 
about  1 V4  M.  we  reach  the  upper  end  of  tht  l*ke  (rowing-boat  from 
the  hotel  thus  far,  40  pf.).  Our  road  is  joined  by  that  from  Erlen- 
bruck  and  Hinterzarten  (see  p.  416)  3/4  M.  farther  on,  and  by  the 
forest-path  from  Erlenbruck  (p.  416) •after  3/4  M.  more.  Beyond  a 
saw-mill  we  cross  the  Seebach^  continue  to  follow  the  road  (from 
which  a  private  road  to  the  Feldsee  diverges  after  1/2  M.),  and  as- 
cend through  wood,  passing  between  the  houses  of  Bdrenthal,  to  the 
AdUr  Inn  (3180  ft ;  41/2  M.  from  the  station  of  Titisee),  where  the 
road  forks,  the  Feldberg  road  ascending  to  the  right,  while  the  main 
road  leads  in  a  straight  direction  vilt  Neu-OlcLshiitte  and  Alt-Olas- 
hilUe  to  (9  M.)  Schluchsee  (p.  419). 

About  1/4  ^-  fro°^  the  'Adler  Inn  a  path  ascends  on  the  left  to  the 
(IV2  hr.)  ^Zweiseenblick"  (view  of  the  Titisee  and  Schluchsee)  on  the  Bdr- 
halde  (4330  ft.);  hence  to  the  Feldberg  Inn  V4-I  hr. 

The  Feldberg  road  continues  to  a9cend,  commanding  for  some 
distance  a  fine  survey  of  the  Baren-Thal  and  the  Titisee,  and  then 
enters  beautiful  pine-forest.  About  3  M.  above  the  Adler  a  new  road 
diverges  through  wood  to  the  left,  and  3  min.  farther  on  an  old  road 
to  the  (3/4  M.)  Feldberg  Inn  leads  off  to  the  right,  passing  the  Menzen- 
sehwander  Viehhiitte.  The  Todtnau  road  goes  on  vil  the  (8  min.) 
Jdgermatte  Inn  (4100  ft.;  R.  from  IY2,  pens.  5-6  Jf),  where  the 
new  road  to  the  Feldberg  Inn  begins. 

The  *Feldberg  Inn  (4195  ft.;  R.  2,  B.  1,  D.  I3/4-2V2,  pens. 
6-7  Jf;  post-oflice  and  telephone),  where  the  road  ends,  is  situated 
on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  bare  Feldberg  ridge  (2t/2  M.  long,  1/3  M. 
broad),  which  culminates  to  the  N.W.  in  the  Feldberg  proper,  to 
the  N.  in  the  Baldenweger  Buck,  and  to  the  S.E.  in  the  Seebuck, 
while  on  the  S.  it  is  connected  with  the  Herzogenhom  by  a  saddle. 

Two  paths  lead  from  the  inn  to  the  (1  hr.)  top,  diverging  from 
each  other  above  the  (5  min.)  cattle-shed.  The  Telsenweg'  to  the 
r*ght,  high  above  the  Feldsee  (p.  416),  skirts  the  slope  of  the  See- 
buck, to  the  N.  of  which  it  rejoins  the  older  path.  The  older  path 
to  the  left,  ascends  in  windings  to  the  (20-25  min.)  top  of  the 
*Seebabk  (4755  ft.) ,  on  which  is  a  tower  bearing  a  large  bronze 
relief  of  Bismarck  (1896).  To  the  E.  we  have  a  picturesque  view  of 
the  Baren-Thal  and  the  wooded  basin  of  the  Feldsee;  and  to  the  S. 
(in  clear  weather ;  rare  in  summer)  a  distant  jurvey  of  the  Alps 
from  the  Santis  to  Mont  Blanc,  with  the  Bernese  Alps  rising  con- 
spicuously to  the  left  of  the  Hornberg.  —  In  */2  hr.  more  we  reach 
the  top  of  the  Feldberg  proper. 

The  •Feldberg  (4900  ft. ;  1000  ft.  lower  than  the  Rigi-Kulm) 
is  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Black  Forest,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Bavarian  Alps,  the  Schneekoppe  (5260  ft.)  and  two  other 
peaks  (5120  and  4960  ft.)  in  the  Riesengebirge,  also  the  highest 
in  Germany.  On  the  highest  point  (the  'Hochste*)  are  the  Friedrich- 

Baedeker'3  Hhine.    15th  Edit.  07*       ^ 


418  Route  48,  FELDBERG.  Black  Forest. 

Luiaen-Thurm  (adip.  20  pf.)  and  the  Feldbergthurm  Inn  (R.  2yr  3, 
B.  1,  D.  I8/4,  S.  IV2  '^)'  The  view  from  the  tower  includes  the 
Yosges  and  the  Alps  ts  leen  from  the  Seebuck  (monntain-indicator}. 
The  Feldberg,  which  is  yisited  at  all  seasons,  is  frequented  in  winter 
by  numerous  snow-shoertf,  who  use  the  Swedish  'skis'. 

Ascent  of  thb  Fbldbebo  fbom  Obbbbibd  (p.  418)  thbouoh  thb 
St.  Wilhblms-Thal  (5  hn.).  We  follow  the  Todtnau  road  for  3  M.  to  a 
finger-post,  indicating  the  way  to  the  left  to  the  pictureaqne,  wooded,  and 
rocky  St.  Wilhelnu-Thal.  The  broad  track  crosses  the  brook  four  times; 
beyond  the  last  bridge  (2  hrs.)  is  the  humble  inn  Zum  Napf,  where  car- 
rii^e^es  must  stop.  The  footpath  to  the  left  is  to  be  followed  hence; 
12  min..  we  ascend  to  the  left,  at  first  gradually,  afterwards  in  rapid  zig- 
zags; V4  hr.,  the  wood  is  quitted  (way- post);  we  again  ascend  to  the  left 
to  the  (36  min.)  St.  WUhelmer  HUtU  (4530  ft. ;  rfmts.  and  nightquarters), 
from  which  the  tower  is  attained  in  1/3  hr.  more. 

From  Obbbbibd  throuoh  thb  Zastlbb-Thal  (4  hrs.).  The  road  is 
quitted  at  Oberried,  and  Xh^  Zaitler-Thaly  a  narrow  and  wild  valley,  is  as- 
cended. In  2*U  brs.  we  reach  Avf  dem  Rinken^  and  in  iV4  hr.  more  the 
top,  by  the  route  described  at  p.  416.  We  may  also  ascend  to  the  top 
direct  from  the  Zcutler  HStts. 

From  Todtnad  (p.  425 ;  3V«  hrs.).  The  Tilif ee  road  ascends  the  Wiesen- 
Thal  yii  the  hamlets  of  Brandenberg  (Hirsch)  and  (IVs  hr.)  Fahl  (3790  ft. ; 
Adler),  and  then  makes  a  wide  curve  to  the  pais  of  the  Zaifar  (3850  ft.)* 
where  several  roads  meet.  Walkers  may  avoid  the  last  curve  by  following 
the  'Hebelsweg  darch  daS  Fabler  Loch',  a  footpath  to  ihe  right,  »/«  M.  above 
Fahl.  From  the  summit  of  the  Zeiger  pass  a  path  diverges  to  the  left  to 
the  Feldberg  Inn  (iV*  hr.  from  Fahl).  —  A  direct  footpath  ftrom  Fahl  to 
the  (IV4-3  hrs.)  tower  on  the  top  leads  to  the  left  in  the  village  to  the 
right  bank  of  the  Wiese,  ascends  to  the  curve  of  the  road,  and  proceeds 
thence  to  the  left  to  the  Todtnauar  Hiitte  (4355  ft.;  rfints.;  bed  fromlUV), 
y«  hr.  below  the  tower.  —  The  ascent  from  Todtnauberg  (p.  426)  takes 
3  hrs. ;  the  route  unites  at  the  Todtnauer  Hiitte  with  that  above  described. 
—  From  the  Nothschrti  (p.  413)  to  the  top  of  the  Feldberg  2Vshr8.;  nu- 
merous way-posts. 

From  Mbnzbmsghwand  (p.  429  i  iV3-2  hrs.).  At  the  Hirsch  Inn  in  Hinter- 
Menzenschwand  the  road  reaches  the  right  bank  of  the  Alb,  which  it  fol- 
lows. The  final  wide  bend  of  the  road  before  the  Zeiger  U  avoided  by  a 
zigzag  footpath  to  the  right  at  the  top  of  the  wood,  which  re^oin^  the  road 
at  the  Jagermatte. 

From  St.  Blasibn  (p.  429  \  SVs  brs.)  we  may  either  follow  the  road  via 
Menzenschwand  (carr.  25  UV),  or  take  the  following  walk.  About  1  M. 
above  St.  Blasien  a  road  diverges  to  the  rieht  from  the  Mensenschwand 
road,  mounts  Wq  BOtzberg^  and  leads  to  (IV4  hr.)  Muchenland  (3765  ft.) 
and  (20  min.  farther)  the  Krvmmenhreut  (8770  ft.).  Beyond  it  the  path 
fork<),  to  the  right  to  AeuU  and  JlAo,  to  the  left,  alway.<t  on  the  same 
level,  to  the(lVa-2hr8.)  Awlemer  Kreux.  Hence  we  ascend  the  W.  side  of 
the  Feldberg  and  the  Bdrhaide  to  the  Barenthal  road  in  !*/«  hr.,  or,  mak- 
ing a  ddtour  by  the  ZwHseenbUek  (p.  417),  reach  the  Feldberg  Inn  in 
274  hrs. 

From  Schldohsbb  (p.  419).  The  road  by  Unter-Aha^  Ober-Aka^  and 
AltglashUUe  unites  at  the  Adler  in  Barenthal  with  the  road  from  the 
Tltisee  described  at  p.  417.  Walkers  may  quit  the  road  at  Unter-Aha 
(p.  419;  3M.  from  Schluchsee)  for  the  path  indicated  by  a  finger-post  to 
tne  right,  on  the  road  to  Aeule. 

From  the  Zeiger  (see  above  jV*  hr.  below  the  Feldberg  Inn)  a  footpath 
('Herzogenhom')  leads  to  the  S.W..  across  the  Gra/enmatty  at  the  (*/4  hr.) 
S  end  of  which  is  a  finger-post  pointing  to  the  left  to  the  Spiesshon. 
Here  we  turn  to  the  right  and  in  20  min.  reach  the  Henogenhorn  (4660  ft.), 
which  aflfords  a  fine  view  of  the  valleys  to  the  S.  —  From  the  Herzogen- 
horn  we  may  return  to  the  above-mentioned  finger-post  and  descend  by 
a  rough  path  through  wood,  keeping  to  the  left,  to  the  Sftieishom  (HSO  ti^ 

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Black  Forest,  SCHLDCHSEE.  48.  Route.   419 

and  (I'A  hr.)  Meu'zeuschwand  (p.  439).  Or  we  may  Uke  (he  Beroau  path 
(finger-post),  but  at  *An  der  Eck\  instead  of  descending  to  the  left  lo 
Bemanhof,  we  follow  the  ridge  to  the  S.  to  (IVt  hr.)  the  WactU,  on  the 
road  firom  St.  Blaaien  to  Oeschwand  (p.  ^29);  thence  to  the  left  (red  marks) 
by  the  BldssUng  (p.  429),  the  Soke  Zinken  (4075  ft.),  and  the  Hochkopf 
(4160  ft.)  to  Todtmoos. 

A  fine  MocMTAiN  Walk  leads  from  the  Feldberg  vift  the  Todtnauer 
Hutte  (p.  418),  Kind  the  atUbenwMm  (4563  ft.)  to  the  (3  hrs.)  Nothtehrei 
(p.  41.3);  thence  either  over  the  Halde  to  the  (iV4-2  hrs.)  8€hau-im$'Land 
(p.  884),  or  via  the  TntMimaiOccpf  and  the  BOrnle  to  the  (IV4  br.)  Wiedener^ek 
(p.  425)  and  on  over  the  Krinne  to  (3V2  hrs.)  the  top  of  the  Belehen  (p.  425). 

To  Lbnzurou  diligences  ply  once  daily  from  Titisee  (p.  415) 
and  from  Schluchsee  (p.  420),  and  thrice  daily  from  Kappel  (p.  416). 
The  road  from  Titisee  (572  M. ;  diligence  in  IV4  hr.)  douhles  the  E. 
end  of  the  lake  and  ascends  through  a  line  pine-forest  (footpath  to 
the  left,  72  M.  heyond  the  hotel).  At  the  (^Vs  M.)  Bothenkreuz 
(3310  ft),  beyond  the  first  bend,  the  road  forks.  The  left  branch 
leads  to  Saig  (p.  415),  and  the  right  to  Falkau  and  Altglashiltten  (see 
below),  while  that  iu  the  middle  descends  through  the  yalley  of  the 
Uaslach.  —  The  road  from  Kappel  station  (3^2  ^*  i  diligence  in 
3/4  hr.)  passes  through  the  village  of  Kappel  and  oyer  the  hill. 

Lenikireh  or  Ober-Lemkirch  (2665  ft. ;  AdUr  or  Posi^  pens.  41/2- 
5  JKj  yfeVL  spoken  of;  Wilder  Mann^  rustic),  a  village  with  1250  in- 
hab..  Is  one  of  the  chief  clock-making  places  in  the  Schwarzwald. 
Adjoining  it  is  Unter-Lenzkirch  (2630  ft.),  with  550  inhabitants. 
Pleasant  wood-walks  may  be  taken  from  Lenzklrch  to  the  Siockle- 
berg^  the  Hoehechinn  (1/2  ^^'Oi  ^^^  '^®  ^^^  ot  AU-Urach  (74  hr.). 

1.  "Ftom  Titiiee  to  Schluehsee  and  St.  Blasien. 

DiLiosMCB  tvrice  daily  to  (10  M.)  Schluehsee  in  2V4  hrs. ,  to  (19  M.) 
St.  Blasien  in  41/2  hrs.  Schluchsee  has  also  daUy  communication  by  dili- 
gence with  Lenzkirch  (see  above)  and  with  Thiengen  (p.  488).  Gakriagk 
from  Tiiisee  to  Schluchsee  9,  with  two  horses  14  Jl,  to  St.  Blasien  22  and 
26  Jf. 

From  Titisee  to  (2^2  M.)  the  Rothenkretiz^  see  above.  We  now 
follow  the  right  branch.  At  ihe  Lowe  Inn,  iu  FtUkau,  walkers  may 
descend  to  the  left,  through  the  wood,  to  the  WindgfkU-Weiher. 

572  M.  Altglashutten  (3260  ft.;  Lowe,  well  spoken  of),  where  the 
road  from  the  ^Adler'  in  the  Baren-Thal  joins  ours  on  the  right  (2M. ; 
seep.  417).  We  then  descend  to  the  E.  andS.E.,  mostly  through  wood, 
and  passing  the  Windgfmi-  Weiher,  to  the  Auerhahn  Inn  (3057  ft.). 
The  road  leading  hence  to  the  W.  runs  vii  AeuU  (3375  ft.)  to  (672  M.) 
Menzeuschwand  (p.  429),  while  that  to  the  S.  (recommended  to 
walkers)  leads  vi&  Muchenland  to  (3  hrs.)  St.  Blasien. 

The  load  to  St.  Blasien  soon  forks.  The  new  road,  to  the  right, 
runs  yitUnter-Aha  to  the  Schluehsee  (2965  ft.);  the  old  road,  to 
the  left,  which  is  followed  by  the  diligence,  ascends  to  the  village 
and  summer-resort  of  — 

10  M.  Sohloohsee  (3120  ft.;  *8tern,  R.  from  2,  B.  1,  D.  23/4, 
^'  1^/47  pen^-  ^72  *4f ;  Schiff)j  situated  72  ^'  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ii^  the 

27*        ^ 


420    Route  48.  BADENWEILER.  Black  Forest. 

midst  of  pine-forest.  Pop.  600.  The  lake,  2  M.  long  and  1/2  M. 
broad,  is  well  stocked  with  fish  (boats  for  hire).  On  the  bank  is  a 
bath-establishment. 

The  Hochslaufen  or  Wagnertberff  (3556  ft.),  to  the  S.  of  Seebrugg,  is 
ascended  by  convenient  paths  ^  it  aflords  a  view  of  the  Alps.  —  The  Faulen- 
fUrti  (3406  ft.),  to  which  a  road  leads  from  Schluehsee  in  1  hr.,  commands 
a  similar  view.  —  The  expedition  may  be  extended  by  descending  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  Faulenfurst  to  (*/«  hr.)  RothhiXfu  (inn,  opposite),  a  brewery  founded 
by  the  Abbots  of  St.  Blasien  and  now  government-property  (Alpine  view). 
Fbom  Schluchseb  to  Thibnosn,  21  M.,  diligence  once  daily  in  6^/4  hrs., 
see  p.  433.  The  picturesque  Schliicht-Thal  (p.  433)  is  the  only  interesting 
part  of  the  road.  —  A  road  descends  the  Mettma-Thal  from  Bothhaus, 
ascending  to  the  right,  after  about  31/2  M.,  to  Brenden.  Thence  to  the 
Schlticht-Thal  via  JJeraw,  4V2  M.  —  Fbom  Schluchsee  to  Lenzkirch  (p.  419), 
5V2  M.,  diligence  daily  in  IV2  hr. 

From  Schluchsee  the  road  descends  to  the  new  road  along  the 
lake,  which  divides  beyond  (IV2  M.)  Seehrugg  (inn),  at  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Rothhans  and  Bonndorf  (p.  416), 
tlie  right  to  St.  Blasien.  The  latter  crosses  the  Schwarxachy  the  brook 
by  which  the  lake  is  drained,  and  leads  through  pine-forest.  About 
3/4  M.  farther  on  a  finger-post  indicates  a  path  to  the  right ,  lead- 
ing by  Blasiwald  (Sonne)  and  AUhuUe  to  St.  Blasien  (6  M.;  IV2  WT. 
shorter  than  by  the  road).  The  highroad  now  enters  the  Seiwaavz- 
halde,  a  deep  and  romantic  valley,  which  it  follows  nearly  to  (4V2  M.) 
Hdusem  (p.  430).  A  little  beyond  the  village  it  divides  (comp. 
p.  430),  the  branch  to  the  left  leading  to  (li/2  M.)  Hdchtmchwand 
(p.  430),  that  on  the  right  to  (21/4  M.)  — 
19  M.  St.  Blasien  (p.  429). 

m.  Badenweiler  and  Environs. 

Fbom  Mullheim  to  Badenweilbb,  6  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway  in  V2  hr. 
(fares  75 ,  50  pf.).  —  Carriages  take  1 V*  hr. ;  fare  1  Jt  iO  pf. ,  with  two 
horses  5V2  Jf,  fee  included  (luggage  up  to  110  lbs.  60  pf.). 

Mullheim^  see  p.  386.  The  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Klemm- 
bach.  —  23/4  M.  Niederweiler  (974  ft ;  Lowe,  plain),  with  a  large 
brewery. 

31/2  M.  06crir«7er  (1120  ft. ;  Ochse,  with  garden,  R.  IV4-IV2, 
B.  60-80  pf.,  D.  IV2-2,  pens.  4-4^/2  Jf;  Wilder  Mann,  both  un- 
pretending; Pens.  Venedey),  a  village  with  650  inhabitants.  — 
41/4  M.  Hasenhurg  (1180  ft.),  the  station  for  the  Hasenhurg  Hotel 
(r.)  and  for  the  Curhaus  Oherweiler  (pens.  40-60  Jf  per  week ;  with 
baths  and  large  garden),  in  a  sheltered  situation  at  the  S.W.  base  of 
the  wooded  Lausberg,  much  frequented  in  spring  and  antumn. 

About  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  Hasenbui^  is  the  Schvdne  (1430  ft),  command- 
ing a  picturesque  view  of  Badenweiler.  Hence  we  may  proceed  to  the  right 
to  (40  min.)  the  ruin  of  NeuenfeU  (i960  ft.),  returning  vll  Holden  and 
Schweighof  (p.  424). 

The  railway  skirts  the  Hasenhurg  and  reaches  the  station  of 
(5  M.)  Badenweiler^  ^4  M.  below  the  village. 

Badenweiler.  —  Hotels.  «Rom£Bbad,  1/2  M.  from  the  rail,  station,  at 
the  main  entrance  of  the  Cur-Park,  R.  2*6,  B.  l'/*,  P.  3J/|,  pens..  7>/2-l2  •#  ; 

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Black  Forest,  BADBNWEILER.  48,  Route.    421 

^ HOTEL  SoKMBE,  at  the  E.  entrance  of  the  Park,  both  with  garden<), 
R.  3-6,  B.  1V4,  D.  3V2,  pens.  8-IIV2  J(;  *H6tel-Pen8ion  Saupe,  at  the  W. 
end  of  the  village,  with  garden,  E.  2-3V2,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens  from  6  Jf  ; 
ScHWARZWALDBB  HoF ,  R.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  2V2,  pens.  6-8  Jf;  Meissbdrger, 
well  spoken  of,  pens,  from  5  Jf;  Sonne ^  Elsasser  Hop,  Bellevue,  two 
Jewish  houses.  —  Pensions:  Villa  Joner;  Engler;  Hugler;  Pfluger 
(6-S  Jf)i  etc.  —  'Hads  Baden,  in  an  open  situation  on  the  edge  of  the 
wood,  1  M.  to  the  S  of  Badenweiler,  R.  2-3V2,  B.  1,  D.  2V«,  pens,  from  6  Jf 
(closed  in  winter).  —  Private  Apartments  6-26  Jf  per  week. 

Visitors*  Tax  at  Badenweiler  2  Jf  per  week,  or  20  UV  for  the  season ; 
in  the  environs  1  and  10  Jf ;  day-ticket  60  pf.  —  Baths  at  the  Marmorbad 
IV2  Jf'>  tickets  per  dozen  16  Jf',  at  the  Freibad  1  Jf^  tickets  per  dozen 
8-10  Jf.  Gentlemen  nse  the  Freibad  from  7  to  9.30  a.m.  and  the  Marmor- 
bad 9.30  to  12,  ladies  vice  versa.  The  Freibad  is  also  used  in  the  afternoon. 
English  Ohuroh  Service  during  the  season. 
•  Oarriages.  By  time:  first  hour  Sy^  Jf^  each  additional  hour  2V2  Jf^ 
with  gratuity  of  40  pf .  per  hour.  To  the  top  of  the  Blauen ,  one-horse  9  Jf 
80  pf. ,  two-horse  for  2-3  pers.  14,  for  4-5  pers.  19  Jf,  gratuity  IV2  Jf;  to 
BUrgeln  1  Jf  ^  yt,  two-horse  IOV2  or  12  Jf,  gratuity  i  Jf;  to  Kandem, 
8  Uy  40  pf.,  two-horse  12  Jt,  gratuity  1  UV.  —  Donket  to  the  Blauen  3*/4  Jf-, 
Belchen  8  Jf,  Sophienruhe  70  pf.  5  HoRss  in  each  case  Vsth  more. 

Badenweiler  (1450  ft.  above  the  sea,  690  ft.  above  the  Rhine), 
a  village  with  600  inhah.,  lies  among  the  W.  spurs  of  the  Black 
Forest,  on  a  buttress  of  the  Blauen ,  and  commands  an  unimpeded 
view  across  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  to  the  Vosges.  The  thermal 
springs  (77**-80°3,  which  are  almost  destitute  of  mineral  ingre- 
dients, were  known  to  the  Romans.  Badenweiler,  however,  owes 
its  present  prosperity  to  its  fine  air,  its  sheltered  situation,  its 
equable  temperature,  its  t)eautif ul  walks ,  and  its  important  whey- 
cure.  It  is  patronised  by  over  5000  visitors  annually,  including  many 
sufferers  from  pulmonary  and  nervous  ailments.  The  season  lasts 
from  mid-March  to  the  end  of  October. 

The  Curhans,  built  in  1853,  contains  concert,  ball,  and  reading 
rooms,  and  a  restaurant  (D.  at  12.30  p.m.  2^/2  •^)'  A.  band  plays 
here  morning,  afternoon,  and  evening. 

Adjoining  the  Curhaus  is  a  *Park,  15  acres  in  extent,  laid  out 
in  1825  and  enlarged  in  1865.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  luxuriance 
of  its  vegetation ,  the  native  trees  being  neighboured  by  fine  coni- 
ferae,  cedars,  pines,  laurels,  and  yews.  A  broad  walk  (fine  views) 
encircles  the  castle-hill,  on  the  E.  side  of  which,  near  the  Curhaus, 
is  a  Wandelhahn  or  covered  promenade.  The  hill  is  crowned  with 
the  ruins  of  the  Castle  (1500  ft.),  which  was  originally  built  by 
the  Dukes  of  Zahringen  in  the  11th  cent,  and  was  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1688.  Its  foundations  are  possibly  of  Roman  origin.  The 
ruin  is  reached  by  flights  of  steps,  and  a  fine  prospect  is  enjoyed 
from  the  ivy-clad  walls. 

In  the  E.  part  of  the  park  rises  the  handsome  Bath  House  (Mar- 
morhad)y  with  a  colonnade,  108  ft.  long  and  69  ft.  broad,  built  by 
Leonhard  of  Carlsruhe.  The  arrangement  of  the  interior  somewhat 
resembles  that  of  the  ancient  Roman  baths,  all  the  rooms  being 
vaulted  and  lighted  from  above.  Visitors  admitted  12-1 ;  fee  25  pf. 
Behind  the  Marmorbad  is  the  Freibad,  also  well  fitted  "PooqIc 


422   Route  48.  BADENWEILER.  Black  Forent. 

The  aucient  *Bomaa  Baths  to  tbe  W.  of  the  Mannorhad ,  dis- 
covered in  1784,  are  among  the  finest  in  existence  and  were  pro- 
hably  constracted  in  the  second  century  of  oar  era.  They  are  shel- 
tered by  a  wooden  roof  (open  7-11  and  2-7;  adm.  20  pf.). 

The  stracture  (77  yds.  long  and  22-27  yds.  wide)  is  divided  into  two 
corresponding  parts,  the  larger  of  which,  to  the  "W.,  was  reserved  for  tiie 
men,  that  to  the  E.  for  the  women.  On  each  side  there  is  a  vestibule 
(airium)f  used  for  walking  and  gymnastic  exercise<«,  whence  a  passage,  ad- 
joined on  the  8.  by  the  dressing-room  (apodpterium)  and  on  the  K.  by  the 
vapour  or  hot-air  bath  (ealdariwn)^  leads  to  the  two  cold  baths  (frigi- 
daria)^  each  measuring  33  by  21  ft.  Beyond  these  are  the  warm  baths 
(tepidaria)^  28V2  by  24 Vs  ft.  Smaller  rooms  served  as  anointing -rooms 
(unctoria),  and  for  other  purposes. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Gur-PUtz ,  in  front  of  the  main  entrance 
to  the  Park,  is  the  Orand-Dtieal  Palace^  built  in  1586  and  remodelled 
in  the  German  Renaissance  style  in  1887-88.  —  The  new  street  to 
the  right,  with  numerous  villas  and  the  small  Roman  CathoUc  Churchy 
leads  to  Niederweiler.  The  street  to  the  right  passes  above  the 
Parish  Church  (Prot. ;  1897)  and  leads  to  Kandem. 

In  the  enyirons  of  Badenweiler  are  numerous  picturesque  aud 
well-kept  FoRBST  Paths,  leading  to  beautiful  points  of  view  and 
provided  with  guide-posts. 

Proceeding  from  the  Edmerbad  Hotel  to  the  right,  through  the  shady 
garden  of  the  cattle  (open  to  the  public),  we  reach  0  min.)  uie  corner  of  • 
a  wood  on  the  Kander^  road,  where  a  finger-post  indicates  the  ascent  to 
the  SopMenruhe:  2  min.,  at  a  cross-way,  we  ecmtinue  to  ascend  in  a  straight 
direction )  at  the  (7  min.)  'Bondel^  turn  to  the  left;  7  min.,  turn  to  the 
left  again,  then  descend  slightly  to  the  left;  3  min.,  the  Bophienruhe 
(1690  ft.),  an  open  space  on  the  outskirts  of  the  wood,  commanding  a  more 
picturesque  view  than  the  old  castle,  which  with  Badenweiler  itself  forms 
a  beautiful  foreground. 

On  the  way  back,  2  min.  from  the  Sophienruhe,  a  broad  path  ascends 
to  the  left  through  wood,  crossing  the  tomL.  to  (5  min.)  the  road  to  the 
Blauen  and  to  the  0/4  hr.)  Alte  Xann  (2006  ft.) .  a  rocky  height,  acces- 
sible by  bridges  and  steps;  view  similar,  beautiful  wooded  foreground. 
An  unimpeded  view  of  Badenweiler  is  obtained  from  a  rock  farther  to 
the  S.,  to  which  a  path,  passing  to  the  right  of  the  hut,  leads  at  about 
the  same  level. 

We  may  then  return  to  Badenweiler  by  the  Schuberg-Fols  or  by 
Haus  Baden.  The  Sehuberg -  Felt  (2166  ft.),  another  point  of  view,  is 
reached  in  10  min.  by  a  path  which  gradually  ascends  to  the  1?.  of  the 
hut.  Farther  on,  the  path  crosses  the  road  to  the  Blauen  and  leads  through 
the  narrow,  pine-clad  Voffelbaeh'Thal.  —  From  the  Alte  Hann  a  path  descends 
in  windings  in  1/4  hr.  to  Hans  Baden  (1720  ft.),  with  pretty  grounds  and 
a  good  view. 

VGgithtim  (900  ft. ;  Ochs),  a  village  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  reached 
from  Badenweiler  by  a  shady  path  in  IVa  hr.,  is  another  pleasant  ob- 
ject for  a  walk.    Auggen^  see  p.  386. 

Fbom  Badbnwbilbb  to  BtBOBLN  (5  M.).  The  best  route  is  by 
the  Kandem  road  to(2M.)^eftrin^en.  About  V2^*  ^&rther  on  (beyond 
kilometre-stone  4)  a  path  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  (10  min.) 
'Alpenansicht\  on  the  wooded  S.  flank  of  the  Hbrrdt^  commanding 
in  clear  weather  a  view  of  the  Bernese  Alps.  At  kilomdtre-stone  6 
the  road  to  Bfirgeln  diverges  to  the  loft  and  leads  through  wood  to 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  whBr«  it  bends  sharply  to  th«^  right  and  ascends 


Black  ForesU  BLAUEN.  48,  Route.   423 

SohlOBf  Bfurgeln  (2180  ft. ;  Inn,  yeiy  fair,  D.  at  12.30  p.m.  2, 
pens.  5  Jf),  6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Sehliengen  (p.  386),  was  formerly  a 
chateau  of  the  wealthy  Benedictine  abbey  of  St.  Blasien  (p.  429), 
and  was  founded  in  the  12th  century.  The  stag  which  figures  in 
the  arms  of  St.  Blasien  still  serves  as  a  weather-cock.  The  present 
building,  adorned  with  stucco-ornaments  and  figures  of  the  tutelars 
of  St.  Blasien,  dates  from  1762.  The  church  is  used  for  Roman 
Catholic  worship.  Burgeln  commands  a  striking  and  uninterrupted 
view,  resembling,  though  less  extensive  than,  that  from  the  Blauen, 
at  the  S.  base  of  which  it  lies. 

FBom  BuROELK  TO  THE  Blacem,  2-3  hrfi.  At  th3  above-mentioned  bend 
on  the  Bur?eln  road  stands  a  finger-post,  pointing  to  'Vog.^lbach  and  Hoch-. 
b]anen\  The  route  to  the  Blauen  diverges  to  the  left  from  that  to  Yogel- 
bach.    The  windings  of  the  carl-track  may  be  avoided  by  pedestrians. 

The  *Blaaen  (3830  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  Black 
Forest,  and  the  nearest  to  the  Rhine,  is  easily  ascended  by  the  above- 
mentioned  road  in  2^2  ^^s*  ^  pleasanter  walking  route  leads  via 
the  Alte  Mann,  Prinzensitz,  HoheEiche,  Schrennengraben  (3018  ft.; 
refuge-hut),  Wankersfels,  and  Hlrzenmattle.  The  distance,  how- 
ever, is  only  slightly  shortened  towards  the  very  end,  26  min.  below 
the  summit,  where  the  road  is  crossed  (5  min.  farther  on,  on  a  saddle, 
we  reach  the  *H6henweg',  p.  887).  On  the  summit,  surrounded 
by  wood,  are  a  good  Inn  (R.  172»  B.  1,  D.  2V2j  pens,  from  5  Jf) 
and  an  iron  platform  which  commands  an  unimpeded  view  of  the 
Alps  from  the  Glamisch  to  the  Matterhorn  and  Mont  Blanc,  the 
Jura,  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  the  Vosges,  and  the  Black  Forest. 

About  Vs  H.  below  the  inn,  beyond  the  second  bend  of  the  carriage- 
road,  is  a  finger-p  st  indicating  the  above-mentioned  route  to  (IVz-'V*  br.) 
Bilrgeln. 

At  the  first  bend  of  the  road,  about  3  min-  from  the  inn.  a  footpath 
divei^es  to  the  righ*,  lea<JUing,  as  mentioned  above,  to  the  *H6henweg', 
where  a  finger-po«t  shows  the  way  to  Sulzburg  and  the  Belchen.  Thi.s 
oflfers  a  fine  high-level  *Walk  of  about  4V«  hrs.  (way-posts).  Passing  to 
the  left  of  the  Stocliberg  (early-German  ring-wall),  we  reach  the  saddle  of 
Egerten  (3042  ft. ;  *l\  hr.  from  the  inn).  Here  we  cross  the  Schweighof  and 
Marzell  road  and  a^'cend  from  the  refuge -hut  to  the  right.  At  the  (V4  hr.) 
cross-roads  we  keep  to  the  right,  and  !25  min.  farther  on  to  the  right  again. 
At  (1/4  hr.)  the  saddle  of  Stiihh  (9445  i\.\  refuge-hut)  we  cross  tbe  Sirnitz 
and  Marzell  road  and  follow  the  nearly  le^el  path  to  the  left.  In  1/4  hr. 
we  come  to  the  Sirnitz-Sattel  (3470  ft.),  in  7  mm.  more  to  the  SpShneplatz, 
and  in  a  farther  1/4  hr.  we  c  os'?  a  road  and  then  a  stream,  after  which 
we  a=cend  in  a  curve  to  the  left,  r.  aching  in  20  min.  the  highroad,  whivh 
we  descend  to  the  (20-26  min.)  Haldmhof  {^.  424). 

About  SVs  M.  to  the  8.  of  Burgeln  lies  Kandem  (1160  ft.  \  Krone ;  Blume ; 
Ochte)^  a  busy  little  town  with  2000  inhab.,  to  reach  which  a  pleasant 
detour  of  about  2Vs  hrs.  may  be  made  vii  Bilrgeln,  Kdsackery  Vogelbach^ 
and  the  ruins  of  Sausenburg  (2180  ft.  \  key  at  Vogelbach),  destroyed  by  tbe 
French  in  1678. 

Fbom  Kanderm  to  Haltingen  (p.  d86j,  8H.,  branch-railway  in  V4  hr., 
descending  the  Kander-Thal.  via  (i»/4  M.)  Bammerstein,  (S'/a  M.)  Wollbach, 
iiy^  M.)\WiUlingen^  (S'/aM.)  R&mmingen,  and  (7  M.)  Bingeti. 


y  Google 


424 

n.  From  Badenweiler  to  the  Belchen,  and  tLrough  the 
Moniter-Thal  to  Staufen. 

Comp.  Mapty  pp.  416 y  418. 

One  Day:  from  Badenweiler  to  the  Belchen  in  5  hrs.  (nmnerous 
finger-posts  \  horse  or  donkey,  see  p.  421);  down  to  Staufen^  3  hrs. 

A  good  road  leads  from  Badenweiler  to  tlie  E.  to  (1^/4  y[.)8chweig- 
hof  (ibiO  ft. ;  Sonne),  the  highest  village  in  the  valley  of  the  Klemm- 
bach  (I1/4  M.  from  Oberweiler),  where  roads  diverge  to  Marzell  (r.) 
and  Sulzburg  (1.). 

The  new  road  (to  Schonau ,  p.  426)  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Klemmbach  (shortcuts  hy  footpaths  and  the  old  road)  to  the  (41/2  M.) 
unpretending  Auerhahn  Inn,  on  the  Simitz  (2956  ft.),  where  another 
road  to  Marzell  diverges  to  the  right,  while  the  Schonau  road  as- 
cends to  the  left.  Walkers  follow  the  old  road,  which  ascends  be- 
tween the  inn  and  the  'Felicitas  Hut',  and  regain  the  (35  min.) 
highroad  on  a  saddle  (3516  ft.)  where  the  Belchen  becomes  visible 
(to  the  right  is  the  footpath  to  the  Blauen ,  p.  423).  In  1/4  hr. 
more  we  reach  the  rustic  Inn  zum  Halderihof  (3050  ft.) ,  where 
finger-posts  indicate  the  routes  to  Bad  Sulzburg  (I.)  and  (a  few 
steps  farther  on)  to  the  Munster-Thal.  It  takes  about  2^2  ^^s-  ^ 
walk  from  the  Haldenhof  to  Wembach  (p.  426)  by  the  road  vi&  Neuen- 
wegy  Oberhollen^  and  Niederhollen. 

To  reach  the  top  of  the  Belchen  we  take  the  new  *Schattlge 
Weg'  (*Hohenweg',  p.  387),  which,  after  20  min.,  joins  the  older 
route  beginning  6  min.  beyond  the  Haldenhof.  We  quit  the  latter  in 
2  min.,  but  rejoin  it  once  more  1/2  hr.  later;  from  this  point  to  the 
cattle-shed  8  min.;  25  min.  beyond  this,  along  a  shadeless  path, 
we  reach  the  Hohe  Kelchsattel  (4090  ft),  where  finger-posts  point 
to  Badenweiler  and  Sulzburg  and  to  the  Unter-MUnster-Thal;  6  min., 
finger-post  pointing  to  the  summit  and  (r.)  the  Belchenhaus  (1/4  ^r.). 

Ascent  op  thk  Belchen  from  Schonau  (p.  426)  in  the  Wiesen-Thal; 
three  ronten.  (1).  Carriage-road  via  SeMnenbucfien  (passing  UtEenfeld  half- 
way, p.  426),  then  to  the  left  up  the  valley  of  the  Aiterbachy  via  Aitem 
and  Eolzinshatu  (2620  ft.),  to  (3  M.)  the  upper  end  of  Unter-MulUn  (3296  ft.). 
Thence  a  footpath,  to  the  left,  reaches  the  summit  in  about  IV4  hr.  |The 
carriage-road  goes  on  viH  Oher-Mvlten  and  the  Krinne  to  the  Unter-HQnster- 
Thal  (p.  425).]  —  (2).  A  more  convenient  route  is  the  footpath  (2V4hr8.), 
indicated  by  a  guide-post  beside  some  lime-trees  near  the  K.  end  of  the 
village^  1  hr.,  EolzinsJtaua;  at  the  last  house,  guide-post  on  the  left^  then 
straight  on  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Aiterbach  through  wood ;  1  hr.,  view 
of  the  Belchen,  to  the  summit  of  which  (•^hr.)  we  follow  the  telegraph- 
wires  and  guide-posts.  —  (3).  The  older  and  shadeless  route,  leading  to  the 
left  at  the  ^Sonne'  and  ascending  vi&  Schdnenberffy  is  about  V?  hr.  shorter. 

Ascent  op  the  Belchen  fbom  Bad  Salzburg  (1516  ft. ;  p.  386),  4-4V2hrs> 
Passing  the  hotel,  we  ascend  to  the  right  (guide  post)  silong  the  StUzhaefi- 
V2  hr.,  Finger-post,  indicating  route  to  left.  At  (Vz  hr.)  the  finger-post  point- 
ing to  the  Behaghel-Felt  (2216  ft. ;  1.),  we  ascend  to  the  right,  quitting  the 
wood  in  J/«  hr.  more.  At  (1/4  hr.)  the  K&lbeUtchetter  (cattle-shed)  we  gain 
the  saddle  between  the  Kaibenkopf  (3(i75  ft. ;  N.)  and  the  Simitzkopf  (3  '10  ft.). 
The  Belchen  is  now  visible.  Here  we  proceed  to  the  right,  through  wood; 
V2  hr.,  bench,  with  fine  view  of  the  Munster-Thal  and  the  Belchen;  V*  hr., 
Haldenhof.  see  above.  C^ r\r\n\f> 

'  Digitized  by  VjOOQIc 


Black  Forest.  BELOHEN.  48.  Route.   425 

The  ''^lohen  (4640  ft.),  perhaps  the  finest  point  of  view  in  the 
Black  Forest,  commands  a  most  picturesque  and  uninterrupted  sur- 
vey of  the  surrounding  valleys,  especially  the  attractive  MUnster- 
Thal  towards  the  W.,  the  Wiesen-Thal  to  the  S.,  and  the  Rhine  Valley 
stretching  far  into  the  distance  to  the  W.  In  clear  weather  a  magni- 
ficent distant  prospect  is  enjoyed.  Four  mountain-chains  are  visible  : 
to  the  E.  the  Black  Forest  with  its  numerous  peaks,  W.  the  Vosges, 
S.  the  Jura  and  the  snow-clad  Alps.  About  180  ft.  below  the  summit 
is  a  very  fair  Hotel  (R.  1 72-2)  D.  2-3  Jfj  post-office  and  telephone). 

Fbom  the  Bblohbn  to  the  MOnsteb-Thal.  We  follow  the 
Badenweiler-Sulzburg  route  to  (}/^  hr.)  the  saddle  mentioned  at 
p.  424,  where  a  guide-post  indicates  the  way  (r.)  to  the  lower 
Munster-Thal.  This  leads  over  the  ridge  of  the  Langeck  and  descends 
its  N.  slope  to  the  road  that  reaches  the  Unter-Munater-Thal  above 
the  (l*/2  Sr.)  Inn  zur  Krone.  We  follow  the  highroad  (from  Staufen 
to  Neuenweg  and  Schopfheim)  to  the  right.  At  (20  min.)  the  hamlet 
of  Wasen  (see  below)  the  Staufen  and  Schopfheim  road  unites  with 
the  Ober-Munster-Thal  road.  From  this  point  we  descend  the  val- 
ley of  the  Neumagen-Bach  to  — 

3  M.  Staufen  (910  ft;  Kreuz  ^  Post,  very  fair,  R.  1-1 V2,  pens. 
from  Ajf;  Krone),  an  ancient  town  with  1800  inhab.,  overshadowed 
by  the  ruined  Staufenhurg,  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race  which  became 
extinct  in  1602.  Rathhaus  of  the  16th  century.  The  vineyards  on 
the  hill  yield  good  *Burghalder'  wine. 

Staufen  is  a  station  on  the  branch-line  from  Salzburg  to  Krotz- 
ingen  (p.  386). 

From  Staufen  to  Utzenfeld  in  the  Wiesen-Thal,  19'/* M.  To  (3  M.) 
Wasen,  see  above.  Ascending  the  Ober-MUnster-Thal  to  the  N.E.,  towards 
the  Schan-ins-Land,  we  pass  the  ancient  monastery  of  St.  Trudpert  (Linde, 
a  few  yds.  farther  on,  pens.  3-5  Jt)  and  reach  (4V«  M.)  the  inn  Zum  Hirteh, 
at  the  Spieltoeg  (1800  ft.).  The  road  ascends  hence  in  long  windings  towards 
the  S.,  through  wild  and  romantic  scenery.  After  2  M.  the  Sefuxrfenstein, 
a  precipitous  rock  of  porphyry,  crowned  by  the  scanty  remains  of  a 
robbers'  castle,  rises  on  the  left,  the  finest  point  on  the  route.  The 
road  then  passes  Ntuhof  (inn)  and  reaches  (5V2  M.)  the  culminating  point 
of  the  Wiedtnerick  (3396ft.),  where  the  road  from  the  Nothscbrei,  mentioned 
at  p.  884.  ends.  [A  footpath  leads  hence  by  the  Krinm  (p.  424)  to  (2V2  hrs.) 
the  Belchen.]  The  road  descends  hence  in  numerous  windings  (commanding 
a  fine  view  of  the  Alps)  by  the  village  of  Wieden  (Hirsch)  to  (4V2  M.) 
Utzenfeld  in  the  Wiesen-Thal  (p.  426). 

0.  The  Wiesen-Thal  and  the  'Strategic  Line'. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  418. 
The  source  of  the  Wiese  is  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Seebuck,  not  far 
from  the  Feldberg  Inn.     The  uppermost  part  of  the  valley  is  traversed 
by  the  road  leading  from  the  Titisee  to  Todtnau  (from  the  Feldberg  Inn 
to  Todtnau  3  hr.^. ;  by  the  footpath,  p.  418,  IV2  hr.). 

Todtnau  (2180  ft. ;  Ochs,  R.  ±^2-^%  B.  %  pens.  4-7  JT;  Bear, 
R.  1-2,  pens,  from  872  *^j  l>oth  very  fair;  Hir$ch ;  Sonne),  a  thriving 
little  town  in  a  picturesque  situation,  with  2200  inhab.,  is  the  highest 
in  the  Wiesen-Thal  (road  to  Kirchzarten,  seep.  413).  Pleasant  ex- 


426    HouU  48.  SOHONAU.  Black  Forest. 

cursioD  to  the  Todtnauberg  Waterfall^  formed  by  the  Bergerhach  de- 
scending in  several  leaps,  altogether  300ft.  in  height,  and  to  Todtnau- 
berg (3350  ft. :  Stern  j  Engel),  whence  we  may  return  to  Todtnau  by 
Aftersteg  (p.  413;  a  circuit  of  9  M.).    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  416. 

Fbom  Todtnau  to  Schopphbim,  15^2  M.,  railway  in  1 Y2  ^r- ;  fares 
IJfiOyiJfAO  pf.,  ijf.  —  The  line  descends  the  Wiesen-Thal,pa8s- 
ing  through  picturesque  rocky  gorges.    1  M.  Schlecktnau  (Lamm); 
11/2  M.  Qeschwend  (Rossle),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Prdgbach  (via  Prag 
toTodtmoos  and  St.  Blasien,  see  p.  428).  31/4  M.  UtzenfM  (Eiche), 
where  the  Munster-Thal  road  (p.  426)  descends  from  the  Wie- 
denereck.  —  41/2  M.  Sohdnsn  (1760  ft. ;  *Sonn€,  R.  IVrS,  B.  8/4, 
p3ns.  4^/2  J( ;  Oehs,  R.  from  i^/3.  pens,  from  6  Jf  {  Krone;  Vier 
Xidtpen),  a  busy  little  town  with  1660  inhab.,  prettily  situated. 
Pleasant  walks  on  the  Buchenhrand  (S.)  and  Oalgenhalde  (S.),  and 
in  the  Fuchswald  (1  M.  to  the  S.E.).  Ascent  of  the  Belcheny  see  p.  424. 
The  valley  expands.    The  stream  is  employed  in  the  irrigation 
of  the  land  and  for  the  supply  of  numerous  mills  and  factories. 
From  (6V4  M.)  Wembach  (1702  ft.;  Rabenfels  Curhaus)  a  carriage- 
road  leads  to  the  W.  through  the  Bollen-Thalj  by  Oberbollen  and 
Neuenweg,  to  Badenweller.  —  71/4  M.  Hepschingen,  From  (8^2  M.) 
Mambach  a  picturesque  route  diverges  to  the  E.  through  the  Angen- 
bach-Thal\)y  Rohmatt  to  Todtmoos  (p.  428;  8  M.,  3  hrs.  walking).  — 
10  M.  Atzenbach  (Adler);  to  Todtmoos-Au,  see  p.  428. 

1 1 V4M.  Zell(l460ft. ;  Lowe,  R.  1 V2-2V2 ^;  ^^one)  «im Wiesen- 
thaV,  a  prosperous  manufacturing  place  with  3400  inhab.  and  im- 
portant spinning  and  weaving  works.  Extensive  views  of  the  Black 
Forest  and  the  Alps  are  commanded  by  the  Zeller  Blauen  (5606  ft.), 
1 72  ^^'  to  tlie  N. ;  the  Oretgener  Rbhe  (2650  ft),  near  the  village  of 
Gresgen,  1^4  hr.  to  the  W. ;  and  still  better  from  the  belvedere  on 
the  ""Hohe  Mohr  (3230  ft.),  1 V2  lir.  to  the  S.E. 

13  M.  Hansen  (1380  ft;  Linde),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream, 
where  Hebel  (b.  at  Bale  1760,  d.  1826),  the  poet  of  the  Black 
Forest,  spent  his  early  years.  A  Statue  of  Hebel  was  erected  in 
front  of  the  church  in  1860.  Opposite  to  it,  to  the  right,  is  the 
house  of  the  poet's  parents  (now  an  almshouscY  indicated  by  an  in- 
scription. The  valley  here  'changes  its  creed ,  the  inhabitants  of 
the  upper  part  of  the  valley  being  Roman  Catholics,  those  below 
Hausen  Protestants.  —  I48/4  M.  Fahmau,  4V2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of 
which,  on  the  slope  of  the  Hohe  Mohr  (see  above),  is  the  health- 
resort  of  Schweigmatt  (2560  ft. ;  *Curhaus,  pens.  6-8  Jf), 

I5V2  M.  Sohopfheim  (1230  ft;  Pftug,  Drei  Kbnige,  both  very 
fair)  is  a  small  town  (3550  inhab.),  with  two  new  churches  and  con- 
siderable manufactories  of  cotton,  paper,  and  earthenware.  The 
Hebelshokej  with  a  temple  and  bronze  bust  of  Hebel  (see  above),  is 
a  pleasant  spot  with  grounds,  ^2  M.  from  the  railway-station. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  IC 


Black  Forest.  LftRRACn.  48.  Rout f,   427 

Schopfheim  is  the  junction  of  the  'Stbatbgic  Railway'  built  in 
1887-90,  which  avoids  the  Swiss  territory  near  Elein-Baself  and  in 
connection  with  part  of  the  Wiesen-Thal  railway  and  with  the  line  from 
Tmmendingen  to  Waldshut  (p.  433),  now  permits  through-commn- 
iiication  on  German  soil  between  S.  Germany  and  Upper  Alsace. 

From  Bale  to  Sackingen,  261/2  M.,  in  1  Vq-^  ^'s.  ;  fares  3  Jf  60, 
2  ur  60,  1  jr  70  pf. 

BdU  (870  ft),  see  p.  386.  The  line  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  Schaffhausen  and  Constance  railway  (p.  431)  and  enters  the 
Wiesen-Thal,  to  the  N^.  On  a  wooded  hill  to  the  right  is  the  church 
of  8t,  Chrischonay  formerly  a  resort  of  pilgrims,  now  a  Protestant 
missionary  institution.  —  Beyond  (3^/4  M.)  Riehen  (Ochs),  with  its 
pleasant  yillas,  the  German  frontier  is  crossed.  From  (5  M.)  Stetten 
(945  ft. ;  Adier)  we  may  ascend  in  72  ^'-  *o  Oher-  TuUingen  (restaurant 
near  the  church),  situated  on  a  hill  (TuUinger  Hohe)  which  com- 
mands a  magnificent  yiew  of  the  Baden  Oberland  and  the  mountains 
of  Alsace  and  Switzerland. 

51/2  M.  Lorrach  (970  ft.;  Hirsch.  R.  172-^72  ^,  ^ery  fair; 
Krone;  MarkgrafUr  Hof;  Bahnhof-Hdiet),  the  most  important  place 
in  the  valley,  with  10,350  inhab.,  contains  extensive  shawl,  cloth, 
and  other  factories.  The  8chutzenhau8  (1085  ft.)  on  the  Schadelberg 
commands  a  fine  view. 

Fbom  LdKRAOU  TO  LsoPOLDSHdHR,  S^U  M.,  railway  in  16  minutes.  This 
line  forms  the  W.  end  of  the  ^Strategic  Railway'  (see  above).  Beyond 
(1  M.)  Stetten  (see  above),  the  line  passes  under  the  TilUinger  HUhe  (see 
ab  "ve)  by  means  of  a  tunnel  945  yds.  in  length.  2V2  M.  Weil^  with  numerous 
villas,  vineyards,  and  orchards.  —  3^/4  H.  Leopoldthfihe^  see  p.  c86. 

Farther  on,  on  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  left,  rises  Schloss 
Rotteln  (1355  ft),  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Duchy,  commanding  a 
fine  view,  once  the  residence  of  the  Margraves  of  Hochberg ,  after- 
wards that  of  the  Margraves  of  Baden.  It  was  taken  by  Bernhard 
of  Weimar  in  1638,  dismantled  and  blown  up  by  the  French  in 
1678,  and  restored  in  1867.  Fair  inn  at  RbttlerweiUr,  at  the  foot  of 
the  castle,  I72  M.  from  Lorrach;  thence  to  the  top  74  ^^' 

7  M.  Haagen  (987  ft.;  Krone),  with  cotton-factories;  on  the 
right,  Bronibach,  with  the  rains  of  a  castle  destroyed,  in  the  17th 
century.    10  M.  Steinen;  12  M.  Maulburg^  industrial  villages. 

14  M.  Schopfheim,  the  junction  of  the  Zell  and  Todtuau  line 
(p.  426). 

The  strategic  line  now  quits  the  Wiesen-Thal  and,  beyond 
(16  M.)  Fahrnau  (72  M.  from  the  station  of  the  same  name  mention- 
ed at  p.  426),  pierces  the  Dinkelberg,  the  watershed  between  the 
Wiese  and  Wehra,  by  means  of  a  tunnel  2  M.  in  length.  —  1772  M. 
Haael  (1320  ft. ;  inn).  Near  the  village  is  the  Erdmann$-Hohle,  a 
stalactite  cavern,  interesting  also  to  the  zoologist  on  account  of 
its  white  flies  and  blind  spiders  (electric  light ;  the  inn-keeper  at 
Basel  has  the  key ;  50  pf.). 

The  line  descends  the  Wehra -Thai  (p.  4^S).^  ^l(g^^|y  ehr 


428    Route  48.  TODTMOOS.  Black  ForeH. 

(1205  ft.;  Krone;  Adler,  well  spoken  of ;  Baftnfto/«-H5i«i),  an  in- 
dustrial village  with  3500  inhab.,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle 
of  Werrach.  —  213/4  M.  OefUngen  (1085  ft.);  22V2  M.  Brennet 
(Wehrathal;  Kreuz),  about  V2^-  ^'^"^  *^6  station  of  the  same  name 
mentioned  at  p.  431.  —  261/2  M.  Sdckingen  (p.  431). 

p.  Wehra-Thal  and  Albthal. 

The  traveller  who  desires  to  descend  from  the  Feldberg  to  the 
Rhine  by  the  *Wehra-Thal  should  turn  to  the  E.  at  Oeschwend 
(station  of  the  Todtnau  and  Zell  railway,  p.  426)  and  ascend  the 
course  of  the  Prdgbach.  For  the  first  2^2  M.  we  follow  the  road 
leading  over  the  Wacht  to  St.  Blasien  (comp.  p.  429),  from  which  we 
diverge  to  the  right  beyond  the  Hirsch  Inn^  by  a  steep  road  ascend- 
ing to  the  hamlet  of  Prag  (2505  ft.).  Then,  leaving  ihe  road  to 
Herrenschwand  to  the  right  and  the  fioc/ifeop/' (see  below)  to  the  left, 
we  proceed  to  the  Weissbach-Sattel  and  descend  past  Weg  to  (3  hrs.) 
Todtmoos. 

Todtmoos.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Cdbhaus,  with  hydropathic  appliances, 
R.  IV2-4V2,  B.  1,  D.  3,  board  from  5  Jt;  •H6tkl  Villa  Bbllbvub^  Lowb, 
recommended  for  passing  visitors,  R.  from  IV2,  pens,  fr  )m  5  J(;  Pens. 
Adlbb,  pens.  b^Ji;  Pkns.  Schmid.  About  V2M.  to  theW.  is  the  'Sana- 
TOBiDM  Wehbawald  (2821  ft.;  Dr.  Lips),  the  lighest  situated  of  its  kind  in 
Germany,  specially  adapted  for  suflFerers  from  lung-diseases  5  pens.,  includ- 
ing medical  attendance,  heating,  and  light,  lOVz-UVe  Jf. 

Todtmoos  (2690  ft.)  is  a  village  and  summer-resort  of  1500  In- 
hab., with  a  church,  much  resorted  to  by  pilgrims  from  the  S.  portion 
of  the  Black  Forest  and  from  Switzerland.  It  lies  at  the  upper  end  of 
the  Wehra-Sirasse,  which  is  here  joined  from  the  W.  by  a  road  from 
Mambach  through  the  Angenbach-Thal  (p.  426)  and  by  a  new  road 
from  Schonau  (p.  426),  and  from  the  E.  by  a  road  from  St.  Blasien 
via  Mutterslehen  (p.  430).  Another  road  to  the  S.  goes  to  Herrisch- 
ried,  etc.  (see  p.  432).  —  The  ascents  of  the  Blossling  (p.  429)  and 
the  Hochkopf  (p.  419;  li^hr.)*  ^^^  other  attractive  excursions 
may  be  made  from  Todtmoos. 

The  next  village  in  the  Wehra-Thal  is  (3  M.)  Todtmoos- Au 
(2270  ft. ;  Hirsch),  commonly  called  the  Au.  The  next  portion  of 
the  Wehra-Thal  is  a  magnificent  rocky  ravine,  the  most  striking 
of  all  the  valleys  in  the  Black  Forest.  The  bold  pine-crowned 
cliffs  enclosing  the  valley  are  clothed  with  luxuriant  vegetation, 
broken  here  and  there  by  imposing  masses  of  barren  rock.  At 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  the  stream  dashes  impetuously  over  the 
blocks  of  granite  which  obstruct  its  narrow  channel,  frequently  leav- 
ing but  little  space  for  the  road.  The  most  striking  point  is  about 
halfway,  at  a  bridge  which  carries  the  road,  beyond  a  tunnel,  to  the 
left  bank  of  the  Wehra.  On  a  precipitous  cliff  to  the  left  at  the 
outlet  of  the  valley  rises  the  ruin  of  Bdrenfels  (view-tower).  — 
There  is  no  inn  between  Todtmoos-Au  and  (IOV2M.)  Wehr  (diligence 
twice  daily  from  Todtmoos  in  2  hrs.;  back  in  3  hrs.),    where  we 


Black  Forest.  ST.  BLASIEN.  48.  Route.   429 

reach  the  new  strategic  line  (see  p.  427 J.  About  I1/4  M.  before 
entering  Wehr  we  may  cross  the  Wehra  at  a  saw- mill,  and  ascend 
through  the  wood  to  (21/4  hr.)  Hasel. 

Travell  rs  approaching  trom  the  S.  (as  in  the  plan  suggested  at  p.  386) 
quit  the  Wehra-Thal  at  Todtmoos-Au  and  follow  the  highroad  diverging 
to  the  W.  to  the  (V*  M.)  'Neusage',  where  they  turn  to  the  right  by  the  old 
road.  This  brings  them  in  3/4  hr.  to  Gersbach  {2810  ft. ;  Krone,  pens.  41/2-6  J[\ 
where  they  rejoin  the  highroad.  Quitting  the  latter  2^/4  M.  farther  on, 
they  descend  to  the  right  l>y  the  old  road  visl  RiecUchen  to  (3-3ys  M)  Aizen- 
bach  (p.  436).  —  Highroad  from  Gersbach  to  SchweigmaU  (p.  426),  41/2  M. 


AjjBTHAL.  Another  very  interesting  route  is  that  from  the 
Feldherg  to  St.  Blasien,  and  through  the  Albthal  to  the  railway. 
From  the  Feldherg  down  to  {i^li  hr.)  Menzenschwand,  see  p.  418. 

Henzenschwand  consists  of  Hinter- Menzenschwand  (4430  ft. ; 
Hirsch)  and  Vorder- Menzenschwand  (4255  ft. ;  *Adler,  with  good 
baths,  R.  172"^?  pens,  from  5  Jiy  It  is  well-sheltered  and  much 
frequented  in  summer.  Ascent  of  the  Spiesshorn  11/2  ^^-t  0^  the 
Feldherg  28/4  hrs. 

Ahout  2  M.  helow  Vorder-Menzenschwand  the  Albthal  road  joins 
that  from  the  Wiesen-Thal. 

The  latter  crosses  the  Alb  and  ascends  through  the  Bemau.  11/4  M. 
BernauKaiserhaus  (3<i55ft.)^  3/^  m.  BernauRiygenbach  (Adler),  51/2  M.  from 
St.  Blasien.  At  (1  M  )  Bemctu-Dorf  (Lowe)  a  road  diverges  on  the  right 
for  Bemau-Hof.  The  Wiesenlhal  road  ascends  to  the  W.  to  the  mountain- 
saddle  of  the  Wacht  (3105  ft. ;  comp.  p.  419),  between  the  Oiesiboden  (4100  ft.  ^ 
to  the  K.)  and  the  BlSuHng  (4300  ft.  j  IV4  hr.  to  the  S.).  It  then  descends 
the  wooded  valley  of  the  Pr&gbach  to  the  Hirsch  Inn  and  Oeschtoend  (p.  ^6^ 
7  M.  from  Bemau-Dorf). 

Walkers  may  cross  the  bridge  of  the  Bernau  road  and  descend  to 
the  left  on  the  right  hank  of  the  Alb.  The  road  crosses  from  the 
left  to  the  right  bank  just  before  reaching  St.  Blasien  (6  M.  from 
Vorder-Menzenschwand). 

St.  Blasien.  —  Hotels.  '^'HdTEL  &  CtJRHACS  St.  Blasiek,  with  three 
d^pendances  and  a  well-fitted-up  hydropathic  (closed  from  Oct.  to  May); 
*HiB8CH,  R.  IV2-3,  D.  2J/2  J(  also  of  the  first  cla«»s  •,  Krone,  opposite  the 
churcii,  with  garden,  pens  6-7  Jt  very  fair.  —  The  St.  Blasien  Sanatorium 
(Dr.  Sander  A  Dr.  Maier)^  close  to  the  woods,  well-equipped  with  baths, 
shelters,  and  other  conveniences,  is  frequented  by  consumptive  patients  all 
the  year  round  (B.  2'/2-7,  board  51/2,  or  inclusive  of  medical  treatment 
7V2  Jt).  —  Pension  Waldeck  (from  6  Jl\  at  the  S.  end  of  the  village-,  Pens. 
KehrtPteder^  R.  2  4V2,  board  4  »S;  Pent.  lAebler,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  village, 
very  fair.  —  New  Hospital^  at  the  S.  end.  —  Numerous  Private  Apart- 
ments. —  Restaurant  Felsenkeller.  —  Visitors"  Tax  (June  I5th  to  Sept.  15th), 
30  pf.  per  day,  2  J^  per  week.  15  J^  for  the  season. 

Diligence  to  and  from  (I8V2  M.)  Titisee,  twice  daily  in  4V4-4V2  hrs. ; 
to  and  from  (16  M.)  Albbruck,  twice  daily  in  3-4  hrs.;  to  and  from 
(14  M.)  Waldshut.,  once  daily  in  4-4 V2  hrs.  (see  p.  433).  —  Carriage  to 
Albbruck  or  Waldshut  20  jH,  Titisee  22  U(f,  to  Brennet  through  the  Wehra- 
Thal  25-30  Jl'y  fee  10  per  cent  of  the  fare. 

St.  Blasien  (2530  ft.),  a  village  with  1700  inhab. ,  was  once 
celebrated  for  its  wealthy  and  learned  Benedictine  abbey ,  founded 
in  the  middle  of  the  10th  cent,  and  secularised  in  1805,  and  is  now 
frequently  resorted  to  both  in  summer  and  winter,  owing  to  its 

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430  Route  48,  HOOHENSCHWAND.  Black  Fbrat. 

healthy  situation,  which  affords  an  agreeable  mixtuie  of  mountain 
and  forest  air,  and  is  specially  fayouiable  to  lung-diseases.  The 
possessions  of  the  abbey  extended  over  the  whole  of  the  S.  part  of 
the  Black  Forest;  in  1611  it  attained  the  freedom  of  the  Empire, 
and  in  1746  its  abbot  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  prince  of  the 
Empire.  The  buildings  are  now  used  principally  as  a  cotton-mill 
(^600  hands).  In  the  Our-Garten  is  a  fountain,  throwing  a  j»t  nearly 
150  ft.  high. 

The  handsome  Churchy  built  by  Ixnard  in  1768-80,  after  the 
model  of  the  Pantheon,  was  almost  entirely  burned  down  ill  1874, 
but  has  been  restored.  The  central  dome  is  165  ft.  in  diameter. 
The  upper  part  of  the  rectangular  choir,  originally  intended  for  the 
monks  but  now  used  for  the  general  congregation,  is  decorated  with 
Ionic  columns  and  galleries. 

The  paths  in  the  neighbourhood  are  distinguished  by  marks,  for 
the  purposes  of  the  ^Terrain  Cure'  (p.  369).  The  Tusculum  waterfall 
(10  min.),  the  Qros8'Her%ogin-Lui8en-Ruhe  (^/^  hr.),  the  Calvarien- 
berg  (3465  ft.),  the  Sandhodm  (3270  ft.;  view  of  the  Alps),  on 
the  slope  of  the  Bdt%berg  (3970  ft.),  and  the  Uhenkopf  (3410  ft.; 
11/4  br.;  view  of  the  Alps  from  the  tower)  afford  pleasant  objects 
for  walks. 

To  S0HLUOH8KB  (9  H.))  see  p.  420;  diligence,  p.  419.  The  shorter  route 
by  Blasiwald  is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  4  min.  below  the  Krone  Jnn^  on 
the  left  of  the  Albthal  road. 

To  ToDTMOos  (p.  438;  8  M.,  3  hrs.  on  foot).  The  road  leads  from 
St.  Blasien  by  MuttertUhm  and  past  the  cross  on  the  HOmUherg  (3490  ft.), 
finally  descending  rather  steeply. 

On  the  plateau,  41/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  St.  Blasien,  lies  Hoehen- 
schwand  (see  below).  This  may  be  reached  either  by  the  highroad 
vik  (2  M.)  Hdusem  (2920  ft.;  Adler;  Deutscher  Kaiser),  or  by  the 
footpath,  which  leads  to  the  left  into  the  wood  (flnger-post  *Wind- 
bergfalle-Hausem')  at  the  *Steinerne  Kreuz',  below  St.  Blasien. 
This  path  rejoins  the  road  above  Hausern,  but  another  path  (*Wald- 
weg')  soon  diverges  to  the  right  (II/2  hr.  in  all). 

Hoohensohwand  (3310  ft. ;  *H6tel  Curhaus,  with  baths,  R.  1-3, 
B.  3/4,  D.  2V2,  pens.  5-8  Jf ;  Hirsch,  Krone,  unpretending),  one 
of  the  highest  villages  in  Baden  (300  inhab.),  is  now  a  popular 
health-resort.  Pleasant  walks  in  the  adjacent  pine-forest.  From 
the  roof  of  the  hotel  and  from  the  Belvedtre,  5  min.  from  the  village, 
a  magnificent  ♦View  (finest  at  sunrise  and  sunset)  is  enjoyed  in 
clear  weather,  comprising  the  Algau  and  Yorarlberg  Mts.,  and  the 
entire  chain  of  the  Alps.  The  sunsets  are  often  superb.  Key  of  the 
belvedere  at  the  hotel. 

The  road  from  Hochenschwand  to  the  Albthal,  commanding  views 
of  the  Alps,  leads  via  (IV4M.)  Frohnachwand  and  (1  M.)  Tiefen- 
kduaem.  At  the  chapel,  Y4  M.  farther  on,  we  may  either  take  the 
steep  footpath  to  Immeneich  or  proceed  to  (8/4  M.)  Brunnadem 
(2710  ft.)  and  (I'/i  M.)  Niedermuhle  (p.  431). 

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RHEINFELDEN  49.  Route.   431 

Fbom  St.  BLA8IBN  TO  Albbbuck,  16  M.  (diligence,  see  p.  429). 
—  The  road  descends  the  valley  of  the  Alb,  between  wooded  heights. 
274  M.  Schmelset  with  abandoned  iron -works;  274  M.  Kutterau 
(EngelJ.  —  1 V2  M.  Imrmneifh  (2090  ft. ;  Adier),  with  a  new  chapel. 
About  11/4  M.  farther  on  is  the  hamlet  of  NiedermiihU  (2005  ft. ; 
Sonne),  where  the  Hochenschwand  road  joins  ours  (p.  480). 

From  this  point  downwards  the  *  Albthal  becomes  narrower  and 
wilder.  The  road  passes  between  perpendicular  rocks,  high  above 
the  impetuous  bdook,  and  affords  occasional  views  of  the  grand  and 
rocky  ravine.  The  most  imposing  part  of  the  route  is  beyond  Tie  fen- 
atein  (Post,  on  the  road,  near  the  bridge),  situated  on  the  right  bank, 
about  5  M.  below  Niedermiihle.  Beyond  Tiefenstein  Ave  tunnels 
follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  A  footpath,  carried  through 
the  ravine  by  galleries,  is  to  be  constructed.  About  2  M.  farther  on 
we  pass  the  Hdtel  %um  HohenfeU  (very  fair),  charmingly  situated 
high  above  the  river  and  surrounded  with  grounds  (fine  view  of 
the  Albthal).  Near  (2  M.)  Albbrudc  (p.  432),  on  the  Bale-Waldshut 
Railway,  the  valley  opens  into  that  of  the  Rhine. 

49.  From  B&le  to  Constance  vi&  SchafFhansen. 

Camp.  Mapi  p,  418. 

90  M.  Railway  in  4V2-6  hrs.  (fares  11  UIT  60,  7  UIT  75  pf.,  5  Jt).  Views 
on  the  right. 

BdU,  see  p.  386.  The  line,  from  which  the  'Strategic  Railway' 
(p.  427)  diverges  to  the  left  outside  the  town,  traverses  the  fertile 
plain  of  the  Rhine,  here  flowing  in  a  channel  of  considerable  depth. 
33/4  M.  Orenzae\  where  excellent  *Markgrafler'  (p.  386)  is  produced. 
5  M.  Wyhlenf  71/2  M.  Herthen.  The  line  now  approaches  the  Rhine, 
which  dashes  impetuously  over  rocks  and  stones,  forming  the  Hdlleri' 
haken  and  other  rapids.  The  opposite  Swiss  bank  is  precipitous  and 
wooded. 

91/2  M.  Badi$ch'Rheinfelden  (♦Bellevue,  with  salt-baths,  R.  from 
174)  pens,  from  4^/2  Jf\  Railway  Hotel;  Railway  Restaurant,  ver> 
fair),  with  important  electric  works  and  aluminium  factories.  — 
On  the  opposite  bank  lies  the  Svtriss  town  of  Bheinfelden  (865  ft. ; 
*Orand'Hdtel  dea  Salines^  1/4  M.  above  the  town,  pens.  8-12  fr. ; 
^Dietschy,  pens.  6-8  fr.,  with  terrace  on  the  Rhine ;  8ehut*en;  Drei- 
konig;  Engel;  Sehi/f,  all  with  salt-baths),  with  3000inhab.,  which 
was  in  ancient  times  strongly  fortified  and  repeatedly  besieged. 
Since  1801  it  has  belonged  to  Switzerland. 

To  the  right  of  (12  M.)  Beuggen  (910  ft.)  is  a  former  lodge  of 
the  Teutonic  Order,  used  since  1817  as  a  seminary  for  teachers  and 
reformatory  for  children.  —  15  M.  Nieder-Sckworstadt,  —  17  M. 
Brennet  (p.  428> 

20  M.  8&ekiiigen  (960  ft.;  Lowe  or  Bad-Hdtel,  R.  IV4-I72, 
B.  34,  D.  2,  pens.  4.41/2  UT;  Schutze,  R.  1V2'2,  B^U-  D.  2  uT, 

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432  Route  49.  WALDSHUT.  From  B6le 

with  baths;  O'otdener  Knopf y  with  a  terrace  on  the  Rhine;  beer  at 
the  Schwarze  Wallfisek),  a  silk-manufacturing  and  timber-trading 
town  with  4050  inhabitants.  Near  the  station  is  a  tasteful  War 
Monument  by  A.  W.  Menges.  The  old  Abbey  Churchy  with  its  two 
towers,  rebuilt  in  1726,  contains  the  remains  of  St.  Fridolin,  the 
apostle  of  this  district  (6th  cent.).  Over  the  portal  of  the  church  are 
statues  of  the  saint  and  of  Count  Urso  of  Glarus  whom  he  had 
restored  to  life.  To  the  left,  on  the  exterior  chapel,  is  the  tomb- 
stone of  Werner  Kirchhofer  (d.  1690)  and  his  wife  Maria  Ursula  of 
Schonauw  (d.  1691),  which  formerly  stood  behind  the  chateau- 
garden  and  suggested  the  composition  of  Scheffel's  'Trompeter  von 
Sackingen'.  The  abbey,  subsequently  a  nunnery,  was  secularised  in 
1801.  In  the  market-place  is  a  monument  to  Scheffel,  by  Menges. 
The  chateau  of  Schonau  on  the  Rhine  is  now  the  property  of  Princess 
Isenburg-BQdingen.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  covered 
bridge  (fine  view  of  the  castle)  is  the  house  in  which  Scheffel  lived. 

—  Excursion  to  the  (1^2  M.)  Schwarzsee  or  Scheffelseey  to  the  N. 
of  the  station,  on  the  road  to  Herrischried  (see  below).  —  Line  to 
Sckopfheim  and  Lorrachy  etc.,  see  pp.  428,  427. 

To  the  left  of  the  railway  stands  the  church  of  Ober-Sackingen, 

—  24M.  Murg(i02bft,'y  Zum  Murgthal),  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Murg,  in  the  picturesque  valley  of  which  a  road  ascends  to 
(6^4 M.)  Hottingen  (Sonne);  on  a  hill  to  the  left  rises  the  Harpo- 
Unger  Schloss,  Beyond  Hottingen  the  road  leads  to  (3  M.)  Herriich^ 
ried  and  (7V2  M.  farther)  Todtmoos  (p.  428). 

Opposite  (25 V2  M.)  Laufenburg  (Post,  unpretending  but  well 
spoken  of,  R.  1-1 V2)  pens.  4-5  Jf)  is  the  Swiss  town  of  Laufenburg 
(Rheinsoolbady  with  salt-baths  and  a  terrace  on  the  river,  R.  1-2, 
pens.  5-6  fr. ;  Adler;  beer  at  the  Pfau,  with  view),  picturesquely 
placed  on  the  left  bank,  with  its  ancient  castle,  below  which  the 
Rhine  dashes  impetuously  over  its  narrow  and  rocky  bed.  These 
rapids  have  more  than  once  been  successfully  navigated,  but  the 
experiment  is  of  course  extremely  perilous. 

The  eighth  Lord  Montagu,  the  last  of  his  family,  perished  here  in  1783, 
and  by  a  singular  coincidence  his  ancestral  mansion  of  Cowdray  House 
in  Sussex  was  burned  down  almost  on  the  same  day,  and  has  never 
been  rebuilt.  Below  the  cataract,  salmon  are  caught  in  considerable  num- 
bers. Down  to  18(^  Elein-Laufenbnrg  and  Gross -Laufenburg  formed  a 
single  Austrian  town,  but  the  former  now  belongs  to  Baden,  the  latter  to 
Switzerland.    'View  of  Gross-Laufenburg  from  the  Schlossberg. 

The  line  passes  through  a  tunnel,  and  beyond  (28^2  M.)  Albert" 
Hauenstein  crosses  a  lofty  viaduct. 

30  M.  Albbruck  (1060  ft. ;  Zum  Albthaly  R.  11/2-3,  D.  IS/^-S  Jf, 
very  fair),  with  a  large  pulp- mill >  at  the  mouth  of  the  Albthal 
(p.  431).  —  31 V2  M.  Dogern, 

35  M.  Waldshut  (^Railway  Hotel,  R.  1V2-2V2»  !>•  2»  pe»8-  ^«>m 
4V2  Jf;  Blumcy  at  the  beginning  of  the  town,  R.  IV2-2V2,  D.  1% 
pens,  from  41/2  J^;  Rebstocky  Haupt-Str.  83,  with  a  terrace  on  the 

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to  Constanze.  THIENGEN.  49,  Bouit.   483 

Bhine,  R.  lV2-2j  pe^s.  from  41/2  Jf,  lt>oth  with  baths  and  garden; 
BheinUcher  Hof)y  a  quaint  old  town  with  3600  inhab.  and  many 
industries,  lies  at  a  considerable  height  above  the  right  bank  of  the 
river.  Diligence  to  St.  Blasien  (p.  429).  Railway  to  Turgi  (Ziirieh} 
and  Winterthur,  gee  Baedekers  Switzerland, 

Fbom  Waldshut  to  Imkbndinqbn,  46ys  M.,  railway  (a  section  of 
the  strategic  line  mentioned  at  p.  427)  in  V/a-^/a  hrs.  —  31/2  M.  TMengen; 
6  M.  Oberlauehringen,  see  below.  Diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Rhine 
valley,  the  line  ascends.  8  M.  Horheim;  IOV2M.  Ofteringen;  20  M.  Unter- 
eggmgen;  14  M.  Eberjingen.^nw..  Stiihlingen  (1490  ft. ;  Hirsch,  fairj  Adlei% 
an  old  town,  commanded  by  the  castle  of  ffohenlup/en  (extensive  view). 
Pleasant  excarsions  to  Schleiiheim,  near  which  excavations  in  an  ancient 
Boman  camp  have  brought  to  light  a  number  of  interesting  antiquities  ^ 
to  Unterhallau,  etc.  —  I2V2  M.  Weizen  (diligence  to  Bonndorf,  p.  416). 
The  valley  contracts.  The  line  passes  under  the  ruin  of  Blumegg  by  a 
spiral  tunnel  1300  yds.  in  length,  and  crosses  the  Wutach  by  a  lofty 
bridge.  23V2  M.  QrimmeUhofen.  Beyond  a  short  tunnel,  the  line  enters 
the  spiral  Btoehhalden- Kehr-Twmel^  1860  yds.  in  length,  by  which  it  ascends 
in  corkscrew  fanhion.  From  the  station  of  (26V2  M  )  FUtten  (1930  ft.)  we 
enjoy  an  interesting  survey  of  the  line  just  traversed.  Several  viaducts  are 
passed,  high  above  the  Wutach  valley.  15  M.  Bpfenhofen.  The  line 
reaches  its  culminating  point  at  (841/2  H.)  ZoUhcmt-Bhrnberg  (2300  ft.)  and 
descends  past  RiedStchingen^  Leip/erdingeUy  Aulfingm^  Kirehefi'Scnuen,  and 
BinUehingen  to  (46Vs  M.)  Immendingen  (p.  406). 

Quitting  Waldshut,  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel,  and  skirts 
the  hills  to  the  left.     The  Schlucht  is  crossed. 

38  M.  Thiengen  (1140  ft. ;  Krone ;  Ochs,  R.  1 V2-2,  pens.  5-7  JT), 
jan  industrial  town  with  2300  inhabitants. 

A  road  from  Thiengen  up  the  *Sohliicht-Thal  (diligence  to  Schluchsee 
via  Birkendorf  once  daily  in  5»/4  hrs.)  ofTers  a  very  interesting  walk  for 
part  of  the  way.  At  (2  H.)  the  Bruckhaut  Inn  (1310  ft  ;  pens.  4-5  J( ;  baths) 
a  covered  bridge  crosses  the  ravine;  1/2  M.  farther  on  a  path  descends  to 
the  left  to  the  Haselbcich  Waterfall,  V4  M.  beyond  which  is  the  Outtenburg 
saw-mill,  at  the  foot  of  a  rock  (1460  f^.)  crowned  with  a  small  ruined 
castle.  About  2V4  M.  farther  on  is  the  Witznauer  Milhle  (1430  ft. ;  inn), 
at  the  junction  of  the  Schliicht-Thal  and  Bchwarta-ThtA.  From  this  point 
the  Schlttcht-Thal  vies  in  picturesque  beauty  with  the  Wehra-Thal  and  the 
Albthal.  On  each  side  are  lofty  and  partly-wooded  rocks.  At  one  place 
the  stream  occupies  the  whole  width  of  the  valley,  so  that  at  its  junction 
with  the  Mettma  a  passage  for  the  new  road  had  to  be  hewn  through  the 
rocks.  —  Farther  on  the  valley  again  expands.  —  91/2  M.  (from  Thiengen) 
Uehlingen  (2120  ft. ;  Posthom,  very  fair).  —  12  H.  Birkendorf  (2580  ft. ;  Hirseh  ^ 
Post).  —  15  H.  Qraftnhausen  (2940  ft. ;  Hirseh).  —  I6V2  H.  Rothhau*  (3190  ft.  \ 
inn).  —  I8V2  M.  Schluchsee,  see  p.  419. 

411/4  M.  Oherlauchringen,  on  the  Wutach  (*  Strategic  Line'  to 
Immendingen^  see  above).  The  train  crosses  the  Wutach.  The  ruined 
castle  oi  Kussenherg^  on  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  right,  is  now 
passed.  —  45  M.  OriesBen,  Beyond  (48  M.)  Erzingen  the  train  enters 
Swiss  territory.  49  M.  Wilchingen  (customs  examination);  50  M. 
Neunkirch ;  55  M.  Beringen.  —  57V2  M.  Neuhauaen  (1445  ft.),  with 
large  aluminium  and  waggon  works,  is  the  *  Baden'  station  for  the 
Falls  of  the  Rhine ;  there  is  a  station  of  the  same  name  on  the  Swiss 
railway,  to  the  E.  of  the  village  below. 

HenhaoBen  (1448  ft.).  —  Hotels.  *Sohwkizbbhof,  R.  4^,  B.  li/s, 
D.  5,  pens,  from  10  fr.,  with  large  garden  and  beautiful  views  of  the  falls 
^nd  the  Alps  (gratuities  forbidden);  *Bbllbvub,  E.  8-6,  B.  IV4,  D.  4  fr.,  witti 

Ba»dbkbk*s  Rhine.    15th  Edit.  ^^OOqIc 


434  Route  49.        FALLS  OF  THE  RHINE.       .    From  BdU 

similar  view.  —  In  tbe  village  of  Keohausen:  HdrtL-PsHBioN  Germahia, 
B.  2V2-3,  B.  IV4,  D.  8Vs>  pens.  6-8  tt. ;  HdTBx.  Obiirbbbo,  also  with  view, 
B.  2-21/3  fr. ;  HdTEL  Rheinfall,  B.  2-3  fr. :  Hot.  Bahnhof,  near  the  Swiss 
station.  —  Engli*h  Chmrch  in  the  'Schweiserhof  grounds.  —  Abont  lVs-2  hrs. 
are  sufftcient  for  a  visit  to  the  falls.  In  sommer  the  falls  are  illuminated 
every  evening  with  electric  light,  for  which  a  charge  of  '/i-i  fr.  is  made 
in  each  bill. 

Eledrie  RaOwaif  to  Schaffhansen  (see  below). 

The  *Falli  of  fhe  Bhine^  one  of  the  finest  cascades  in  Europe, 
locally  called  the  ^Laufen*,  descend  in  three  leaps  over  a  ledge  of 
rock  of  unequal  height.  The  breadth  of  the  river  above  the  falls  is 
about  126  yds.  The  height  of  the  unbroken  fall  is  62  ft.  near  tbe 
left  bank  and  49  ft.  by  the  right.  If  the  rapids  above  and  below 
are  taken  into  consideration  the  whole  fall  is  nearly  100  ft.  high. 
The  river  is  largest  in  June  and  July,  owing  to  the  melting  of  the 
snow. 

From  Neuhansen  Station  of  the  Baden  Railway  we  follow  tbe 
road  to  the  left,  and  after  a  few  paces  descend  by  a  path  to  the 
right  to  the  village  of  Ntuhamen.  At  tbe  H6tel  Rbeinfall  we  de- 
scend to  tbe  right  by  a  finger-post,  and  after  100  paces  take  tbe 
shady  path  to  the  left,  passing  the  Waggon  Factory^  to  the  (Y4  hr.) 
RheinfaU'Brucke ,  which  carries  the  Swiss  'Nordostbahn'  over  the 
Rhine  to  the  left  bank.  On  the  left  bank  a  path  ascends  in  5  min. 
to  the  8chlo88  Laufen,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  wooded  rock  above 
the  falls ;  the  garden  (adm.  1  fr.)  affords  the  best  points  of  view : 
viz.  the  PavilioUj  the  Kdnzlij  and  in  particular  the  Fischetz,  a  gal- 
lery projecting  almost  into  the  roaring  cataract.  From  the  lower 
entrance  to  the  Schloss-Garten  we  ferry  across  (50  c.  each)  to  the 
Schlosschen  Worth  (inn),  on  an  island  commanding  another  fine  view 
of  the  falls.  A  boat  to  the  central  rock  in  the  falls ,  which  may  be 
ascended  without  danger,  costs  3  fr.  for  1  or  2  persons.  — From 
the  Schlosschen  Worth  we  may  either  return  to  the  station  direct,  or 
follow  the  path  ascending  on  the  right  bank  (benches  at  intervals), 
passing  an  Aluminium  Factory  (left),  to  the  road,  when  we  descend 
slightly  to  the  right  to  a  stone  parapet,  affording  another  good  survey 
of  the  falls.    Gomp.  Baedekers  Switzerland, 

58V2^*  S<)l^<L^^^UI®n*  —  Hotels.  ^BoTBi.  Mdllbr,  opposite  the 
station,  B.  2Vs-4,  B.  11/4,  I>.  SVz  fr.  s  ^Sohwan,  near  the  station,  B.  1,  B.  2-3, 
D.  2V2fr.i  ''H6TEL  National,  B.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  IVz-S  fr.;  Biese;  Boff; 
BAHNHOFS-HdTEL ,  and  others,  with  similar  prices.  —  J^ver  Bath*  above 
the  town,  open  for  men  6-1  and  5-8. 

Electric  Raikoay  from  the  Bahnhof-Platz  to  Neuhausen  (see  above)  in 
20  min.  (20  c). 

Schaffhausen  (1295  ft.),  a  picturesque  old  town  with  15,300  in- 
hab.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  the  capital  of  the  Swiss  canton 
of  the  same  name,  was  formerly  a  free  imperial  city,  and  still  re- 
tains many  of  its  ancient  characteristics,  ^he  early-Romanesque 
Munatery  a  basilica  supported  by  columns,  was  built  in  1052-1101, 
and  has  lately  been  restored.    The  massive  tower  of  Munot  dates 


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to  Constance,  RAPOLFZELL.  49.  Route,  435 

from  1664-90  (view  from  the  top).  The  Fdaenstaub  Promenade 
affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Alps. 

62  M.  Herblingen;  65  M.  Thayingen.  The  train  now  re-enters 
Baden.  68  M.  Oottmadingen.  —  72  M.  Singen  (1406  ft.;  Krone, 
1/2 M.  from  the  station,  R.  IVi-^,  I>.  2Jfj  unpretending  but  good; 
Ekkehard,  R.  IV4-I  V2»  B.  ^U,  D.  iy^2jf;  Adler,  nearest  the  station, 
plain ;  Railway  Restaurant),  on  the  Ache,  is  the  junction  of  the  Black 
Forest  Railway  (R.  48  f)  and  of  the  Upper  Neckar  line  (see  Baedekers 
Southern  Germany').    Luggage  examined  here. 

Tbe  mined  fortress  of  *Hohentwiel  (22^  ft.),  an  ^enclave'  of  Wartem- 
berg  within  the  jSavarian  dominions,  which  was  bravely  and  successfully 
defended  by  the  Wurtemberg  commandant  Wiederhold  in  the  Thirty  Years* 
War,  lies  3i/i  M.  from  the  station.  Turning  to  the  right  i/f  M.  beyond  the 
Krone  Hotel,  we  pass  (20  min.)  the  Hobentwiel  Inn  (clean),  and  in  about 
another  1/4  hr.  reach  the  entrance  to  the  fortress  (adm.  20  pf.).  The  castle, 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  18(X),  is  situated  on  a  isolated  basaltic  rock, 
commanding  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Tyrolese  and  Swiss  Alps  as  Car  as 
Hont  Blanc. 

751/2  M.  Rickelshausen,  —  77V2  M.  BadolfieU  (1306  ft. ;  ScUff, 
R.  1V2-2V2>  ^'  2  M;  Krone,  plainer),  an  ancient  town  of  4160  in- 
hab.,  with  walls  and  gates,  is  situated  on  the  Untersee,  The  Gothic 
church,  dating  from  1436,  contains  the  tomb  of  St.  Radolf  and  a  fine 
reliquary  (left  side-altar),  dating  substantially  from  the  9th  century. 
At  the  Villa  Seehalde  is  a  monument  to  its  former  owner,  the  poet 
Victor  von  SchefiFel  (d.  1886).  Radolfzell  is  the  junction  of  the  line 
to  Mengen  (Sigmaringen)  and  Ulm  (see  Baedelcers  Southern  Qer- 
many), 

78  M.  Markelfingen;  82  M.  AUensbach;  84  M.  Hegne.  —  86  M. 
Reichenau,  the  station  for  the  island  of  that  name,  which  is  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  a  long  causeway  (1  M.)  and  has  for 
some  time  been  visible  to  the  right. 

The  island  of  Beichenau,  belonging  to  Baden,  is  3  M.  long  and  1  M. 
wide.  It  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a  famous  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded  in 
724  and  suppressed  in  1799.  It  may  be  visited  by  the  causeway  (see  above), 
by  row-boat  from  Hegne  or  AUensbach ,  or  by  the  Constance  steamer.  — 
Approaching  from  the  causeway,  we  pass  the  ruined  tower  of  Schdpfeln,  the . 
abbot's  residence,  and  reach  Oberzell,  a  hamlet  with  a  Romanesque  church 
of  the  9-lOth  cent.,  containing  the  oldest  extant  church-frescoes  in  Ger- 
many (iOth  cent.).  —  In  the  middle  of  the  island  lies  its  largest  village 
(1000  inhabj).  MitieUell  or  Milntter  (Mohr^  Bar),  the  churc^i  of  which,  con- 
secrated in  806  and  dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  ll-12th  cent,  (choir, 
late-Gothic,  1448-1651),  was  the  church  of  the  above-mentioned  abbey. 
Oharles  the  Fat,  great-grandson  of  Charlemagne,  who  was  dethroned  in 
887,  was  interred  in  this  church.    The  sacristy  contains  some  fine  reli- 

?uarie8.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  fr^m  the  W.  tower  of  the  KOnigaegg,  a 
6th  cent,  chateau,  recently  restored.  —  The  church  of  Dhterzell^  at  the 
N.W.  end  of  the  island,  is  another  columned  basilica  of  the  9-12th  centuries. 
In  the  apse  are  some  frescoes  of  the  11th  cent.,  discovered  in  1900.  — 
Fine  view  from  the  belvedere  on  the  FriedrichehOhe  (key  kept  at  the 
Mohr  inn  at  Mittelzell). 

The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge  and  stops  at  — 
90  M.  Conitance.  —  Hotels.    *Insel  HStbl,  in  the  old  Dominican 
monastery,  with  a  restaurant  and  garden,  and  view  of  the  lake,  B.  3-6, 
B.  1V4»  D.  4,  8.  3Vj»  pens,  from  8  Jf ;  *H6tel  Halm,  opposite  the  station, 

28* 


436    Route  49^  CONSTANCE. 

B.  from  2>/i,  B.  1,  D.  8  •#;  Hsobt,  to  the  K.  of  the  staiioii,  Tery  f»ir, 
R.  2-8,  B.  1,  D.  8  •#;  *SchO«bbsok,  opposite  the  ftfttioii,  with  reataurant, 
B.  21/34,  B.  1,  D.  2-3.  pens  6>/t-7ysUl;  Badischxs  Hof;  Eeoks,  very  fair, 
SCHNXTZKR,  both  In  the  market-place.  —  English  Chur^  Service  in  summer. 
—  BaOu  in  the  lake,  well  fitted  up  (bath  40  pt,  ferry  10  pf.). 

CoMtanee  (1335  ft.),  with  21,860  Inhab.,  a  free  town  of  the 
Empire  down  to  1548,  lies  at  the  N.W.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Con- 
»tanoe,  at  the  efflux  of  the  Rhine.  The  episcopal  tee,  founded  in  781, 
and  held  by  87  bishops  in  sncoession,  was  made  an  archbishopric 
and  removed  to  Freiburg  in  1827. 

The  *CATHBimAL,  founded  in  1052,  originally  a  cruciform 
Romanesque  edifice,  was  rebuilt  in  its  present  form  In  1435  and  1680. 
The  Gothic  tower  (250  ft.  high),  designed  by  Hfibsch,  was  erected 
in  1850-57;  the  open  spire,  with  a  platform  on  each  side,  commands 
an  excellent  survey  of  the  town  and  lake  (mountain-indicator  at  the 
top;  adm.  20  pf .). 

The  Stadt-Kanzlei  or  town- hall,  erected  in  1593  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  and  embellished  in  1864  on  the  facade  with  fres- 
coes by  F.  Wagner y  relating  to  the  history  of  ConMiance,  contains  the 
Municipal  Archives  in  the  lower  rooms  (2800  charters,  chiefly  from 
the  Reformation  period).   Handsome  inner  court 

The  RosGAKTBN,  the  old  guildhouse  of  the  butchers,  contains  the 
*Ro8garien  Museum  of  lacustrine  remains,  antiquities  of  Constance, 
and  natural  history  specimens  (open  free  on  Wed.,  2-5,  and  Suu., 
10.30-12;  at  other  times  50  pf.). 

The  Kaufhaus,  on  the  lake,  erected  in  1388,  contains  the  large 
hall,  52  yds.  long,  35  yds.  wide,  and  borne  by  ten  massive  oaken 
pillars,  where  the  conclave  of  cardinals  met  at  the  time  of  the  Great 
Council  (1414-18).  The  hall  has  been  restored  and  was  adorned  in 
1875-85  with  frescoes  by  Pecht  and  Sekworer  from  the  history  of 
the  town  (adm.  20  pf.). 

Other  objects  of  interest  are  the  Wesseriberg-Haus  (with  artistic 
collections),  the  late-Gothic  church  of  8t.  Stephen,  and  the  points 
associated  with  the  martyrs  John  Huss  and  Jerome  of  Prague. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  island  of  Mainau 
(1 Y2  lir.),  formerly  the  seat  of  a  commandery  of  the  Teutonic  Order 
and  now  a  summer-residence  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Baden.  For  fuller 
details,  see  Baedeker's  Southern  Oermany  or  Baedeker's  Switzerland, 


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INDEX. 


Aachen  3. 
Abenden  16. 
Achem  974. 
Achert  385. 
Achksrren  8T7. 
Adamsweiler  316. 
Adenau  102. 
Adolpbseck  144. 
Adolphshohe  153. 
Aeule  418.  419. 
Affeiithal  874. 
Aftersteg  413.  426. 
Aglaaterhausen  275. 
Aha41& 

Ahr,  the  73.  99.  20d. 
— ,  Valley  of  the  97. 
Ahrweiler  99. 
Ahtttte  204. 
Aiteni  424. 
Alz-U-GhapeUe  8. 
Albbruck  431.  432. 
Albersehweller  818. 
Albersweiler  299. 
Albersbach  416. 
Albert-Hanenstein  4%. 
Albig286. 
Albisheim  286. 
Albshausen  22Q. 
Albshelm  286.  287. 
Albthal  431. 
Aldegund  195. 
Aldekerk  57. 
Aldenhoven  15. 
Alexandenchanze  397. 

899. 
Alf  195. 

— ,  the  196.  196. 
Alfelden  851. 
Aiken  192. 
AUensbach  435. 
AUerheiUgen  996. 
AUerheiligen-Berg  113. 
Allner,  castle  66. 
Alpirsbach  406. 
Alsbach  265. 
AlBbacher  Schloss  255. 
Alsenz  170. 
Alsheim  280. 
Alflpach  343. 
Altaratein,  the  269. 
Alt-Breisach  384. 
Alt-Bbenteln  373. 


Alteckendorf  816. 
Alte  Burg  117. 
Alte  Eck,  the  409. 
Alte  Mann,  the  422. 
Altenahr  idO. 
Altenbach  349. 
Altenbamberg  169.  170. 
Altenbaumburg,  the  169. 
Altenberg  (near  BergUch' 
Gladbacb)  62. 

—  (on  the  Lahn)  290. 

—  (Alsace)  346. 
Altenburg  (Ahr)  101. 
— ,  the  (MoaeUe)  191. 
Altendorf  63. 
Altenglan  294. 
Altenhalner-Thal  248. 
Altenhelm  375. 
Altenklrchen  219. 
Altenatein  148. 
Altersbacher-Thal  411. 
Altglaahiitte  419.  418. 
Althornberg  403. 
Alth&tte  m 
Altkirch  825. 
Altkonlg^  the  247. 
Altlasshelm  276. 
Alt-Miinsterol  326. 
Altrlch  198. 
Altschweier  389. 
Alt-Urach.  rain  419. 
Altweler  840. 
AU-WeUnau  349. 
Altwled  77. 
Alt-Windeck  374.  8?9. 
Alzey  285. 

Amanweiler  177.  178. 
Ameln  16. 

Ammerschweier  341. 
AmOneberg  136. 
Amorbach  263. 
Ampfersbach  346. 
Am  Tharm  401. 
Andel  201 
Andemach  76.  78. 
Andlau  334. 
Anebos,  rain  300. 
Angenbach-Thal,  the426. 
Annaberg  872. 
Annathal  83. 
Annweiler  299. 
Anrath  63. 


Ans  3. 

Anspach  246. 
Antogast  308. 
Antoniusstein,  ruin  104. 
Antweiler  IQl. 
Apollinarisbrannen  97. 
Apollinariskirche  72. 
,  >kppenhofen  390. 
Appenweier  376. 
Ardeck  145. 
Aremberg  iOl. 
Arenberg  112. 
Arenfela  78.  78.  88. 
Argenachwanf  166. 
Ariendorf  78.  88. 
Arienheller  74. 
Armsheim  2ti5.. 
Amhem  1^ 
Amstein,  monast.  217, 
Arras,  Burg  196. 
Ars-sur-lIoseUe  179. 
Arzweiler  Tunnel  317. 
Asbach  276. 
Asbacher-Thal  96. 
Aspach  361. 
Asselheim  287. 
A88mannshau8enl27. 141 
Asterstein,  the  112. 
Attenbach  66. 
Atzeqbach  436. 
Au  (Murgthal)  392. 

—  (Siegthal)  66.  319. 

—  (Todtmoof)  428. 
Aubure  840. 
Auburg  306. 
AueSM. 
Auerbach  266. 
Auggen  886. 
Augusta-HShe,  the  114. 
Aulfingen  483. 
Aulhausen  188. 
Aumenau  220l 
Auringen-Medenbach 

249. 
Auw  207. 
Avolsheim  828. 
Avricourt  318. 

Baal  60. 

Babenhaosen  262. 
Bacharach  134.  139. 
Baden  863.  Ie 


438 


INDEX. 


Badener  Hohe,  the  39a 
Badenweiler  430. 
Baderlei,  the  216. 
Bahlingen  377. 
Baiersbronn  994. 
Baldeneltz,  castle  193. 
Baldenweger  Hiitte  417. 
Balduinstein  218. 
Bale  3b8. 

Balkhaasen  257.  259. 
Ballon  d' Alsace  352. 

—  de  Servance  353. 

—  de  SooltB  849. 
Ballrechten  886. 
Bammenthal  275. 
Ban  de  la  Hoche  330. 
BannStein  315. 
Banzenheim  825. 
Barbelroth  291. 
Barbelstein  801. 
Barenfels  389.  428. 
BSrenhutte  840. 
Baren-Thal,  the  417. 
Barhalde,  the  417. 
Barl,  the  196. 
Barmen  63. 

Barr  332. 
Bartenheiin  826. 
Bameiler  204. 
Basel  386. 
Basse  Grange  343. 
Bastberg,  the  316. 
Battert,  the  8B9. 
Baadrecourt  818. 
Bansenberg.  the  104. 
Bayenthal.  68. 
Bayerfeld  170. 
Becheln  115. 
Beckingen  180. 
Bedburg  15. 
Beedenkirchen  259. 
Beerfelden  264. 
Beiertheim  861. 
Beilstein  194. 
Belchen,  the  425. 
—,  Grosse  349. 
— ,  Kleine  846. 
— ,  Snlzer  3^. 
— ,  Welsche  362. 
Belfort  825. 
Bell  105. 
Bellheim  298. 
Bellingen  386. 
Bendorf  77.  84. 
Benfeld  321. 
Bengel  197. 
Beningen  174.  316. 
Bennweier  881. 
Benrath  25 
Bensberg  26. 
Bensdorf  316.  318. 
Bensheim  266. 
Benzebene,  the  408. 


Berchem  190. 
Berg  298. 
Bergen  262. 
Berghausen  298.  358. 
Bergheim  16. 
Bergisch-Gladbach  26, 
Berg-Nasfau  217. 
Bergstein  16. 
— ,  the  289. 
Bergstrasse,  the  256. 
Bergzabem  291. 
Beringen  438. 
Bermeringen  318. 
Bermersbach  393. 
Bermont  842. 
Bernau  429. 
Bembach  861. 
Bemcastel  200. 
Berncck,  the  408. 
Bernstein,  ruin  888. 
Berthelmingen  318. 
Bertrich  196. 
Besenfeld  898. 
Besselich  77. 
Bessangen  255. 
Bettembourg  190. 
Bettenfeld  211. 
Betzdorf  66. 
Beuel  66.  81.  90. 
Beuerner-Thal  370. 
Beuggen  431. 
Beul  98. 
Beurig  181. 
Bewingen  204. 
Bexbach  295. 
Biberach  400. 
Biblis  250.  254. 
Bibli^heim  298. 
Bickenbach  256. 
Biebermiihle  300. 
Biebemheim  120. 
Biebesheim  250. 
Biebrich  136.  143.  153. 
Biewer  198. 

Bildstock  Tunneljthe  173, 
BUligheim  290. 
Bilstein  330.  340. 
Binau  275. 
Bingen  128.  139. 
BingerbriLck  130.  139. 
Binger  Loch,  the  127. 
Bingert  154.  169. 
Binsenwasen,  the  372. 
Birkenau  261. 
Birkendorf  433. 
Birkenfeid  (Nahe)  172. 
—  (Pforzheim)  358. 
Birkenkopf,  the  369. 
Blrkweiler  299. 
Birlenbach  318. 
Birresbom  205. 
Birten  68. 
Bischheim  299. 


BischoCsheim  (Alsace) 
832. 

—  (Hesse)  240.  251. 
Bischofstein  192. 
Bischweiler  293. 
Biflten  416. 
Bitburg  206. 
Bitsch  316. 
Bitschweiler  850. 
Black  Forest,  the  386. 
Blanc  Bupt  843. 
Blankenberg  66. 
Blankenheim  208. 
Blasiwald  420. 
Blauen,  the  428. 
Bleckhaasen  210. 
Bleialf  206. 
Bleibach  412. 
Bleidenstadt  143. 
Blens  15. 

Bleyberg  1.  3. 
Blochereck.  the  396. 
Bloss,  the  838. 
Blosaiing,  the  428.  429. 
Blucher-Thal,  the  124. 
Blumberg  439. 
Blumegg  433. 
Blnmenthal  203. 
Bobenheim  280. 
Bockelheim,  ruins  170. 
Bockenheim  (Alsace)  318L 
~  (Frankfort)  68.  241. 

—  (Palatinate)  286. 
Bodendorf  97. 
Bodenheim  279. 
Bodenstein,  the  2^. 
Bodingen,  monast.*66. 
Boes  192. 

Bogel  121. 
Bohl  288. 
Bohrerbach  884. 
BoU  416. 

BoUen-Thal,  the  426. 
BoUweiler  834. 
Bonames  68.  339. 
Bondorf  82. 
Bonhomme,  Le  343.    * 
Bonn  84.  69.  80. 
Bonndorf  416. 
Boosenburg,  the  131. 
Boppard  116.  139. 
Borcette  12. 
Bomhof^n  118.  141. 
Borrstadt  286. 
Borskritt  400. 
Bos,  the  143. 
Botzberg,  the  480. 
Botzingen  377. 
Bourg-Bruche  330. 
Bons  174.  180. 
Boxtel  19. 
Brand  13.  , 

Brandau  j^|^g[e 


INDEX. 


439 


Brandenberg  418. 
Braubach  116.  141. 
Braunberg,  the  898. 
Braunchesberg,  the   144. 
Brauneberg,  the  201. 
^Brauufels  220. 
Braunsberger  Hof  77. 
Brauweiler  16. 
Brebach  315. 
Breiberg,  the  96.  97. 
Breidscheid  103. 
Breisach  384. 
Breisgau,  the  378. 
Breitenbach  836.  846. 
BreitenbrunaeA  390. 
Breitnau  414. 
Bremerhof  286. 
Bremm  196. 
Brend,  the  409. 
Brenden  420. 
Break  104. 
Brennet  428. 
Bressoir,  the  337. 
Bretzenheim  166. 
Breaberg,  ruin  263. 
Brexbach-Thal  83. 
Br^souard,  the  837.  340. 
Briedel  199. 
Briedern  194. 
Brienen  69. 
Brigach,  the  404. 
Brigittenschloss  376. 
Brodenbacb  192. 
Broel,  the  64. 
Brohl  74.  78.  103. 
Brohlbach,  the  108.  74. 
Brohlthal,  the  108. 
Brombaeh  427. 
Bromberg,  the  384. 
Bromserburg,  the  181. 
Brothers,  the  118. 
Brotzingen  353. 
Bruchhaasen  861. 
Bruchmuhibach  294. 
Bruchsal  852. 
Bruchweiler  301. 
Briick  101. 
Briihl  80. 
Bnimath  816. 
Brunnadem  430. 
Brunnenburg  217. 
Briiscbbftckel  837. 
Brussels  1. 
Bruttig  194. 

Bubenhauser  Hohe  142. 
B&bingen,  chftt.  189. 
Bnchborn  347. 
Buchenbach  418. 
Buchenbriicken  68. 
Bnchenloch  204. 
Buchholz  (Elzthal)  411. 

—  (Manderscheid)  210. 

—  (near  Braubach)  118. 


Buchholz  (Sieg)  66. 
Bnchkopf  889. 
Bachsweiler  316. 
Budenheim  140   165. 
Biiderich  68.  19. 
Btideaheim  130.  186. 
Buggingen  385. 
Biihl  (near  Baden)  374. 

—  (near  Oebweiler)  848. 
Buhlbach  394. 
Biihler-Thal  389. 

Bnir  16. 
Bolach  361. 
Bollay  195. 
Bunte  Kuh,  the  99. 
Barbach  (near  Betodorf) 
66. 

—  (Saarbnicken)  180. 
Bnrg  (Black  Forest)  413. 

—  (MoseUe)  199. 

—  (Wupper)  63. 
Bnrgberg  16. 
Burgbrohl  103. 
Biirgeln  428. 
Burgen  192. 
Barg-Schwalbach  144. 
Burgsolms  220. 

Burg  Sponheim  169. 
Burkheim  877. 
Bornhaapt  351. 
Biirresheim  207. 
Burscheid  63. 
Biirscheid  198. 
Burstadt  250.  267. 
Bdrstenstein  396. 
Burtscheid  12. 
Buschfeld  180. 
Basenbach  383. 
Busenbers  301. 
Bnssang  360. 
— ,  Col  de  350. 
Biitgenbach  13. 
Biittenstein  Fall8,the  396 
Butzbach  67. 

Ceecilienberg,  the  370. 
Galcar  69. 
Galcum  20. 
Gall  203. 
Calmbach  353. 
Galmond,  the  194. 
Gamberg  249. 
Gamp  118.  141. 
Camphausen  178. 
Capellen  113.  16.  139. 
Garden  198. 
Garliberg  294. 
Oarlshalie  168. 
Garlshohe  18. 
Garlsruhe  864. 
Gasel  302. 

Casselburg,  the  201. 
Casselsrohe,  the  90. 


Gastel  (Uayence)  241. 
—  (Saarburg)  181. 
GagteUann  118. 
Gat,  the,  ruin  120. 
Gattenes  192. 
Gaub  128.  141. 
Gemay  849. 
Ghamp  du  Feu  335. 
Chatel-S(>6erinain  177. 
Ohatenois  836. 
Ghatte  Pendue,  the  329. 
Ghaudfontaine  3. 
Ghausseehaus  143. 
GhSn^e  3. 
Ghristophsthal  394. 
Glarenthal  153. 
Clausen  301. 
Clef,  the  181. 
Clemens-Oapelle,  the  126. 
Cleve  58. 
Glimont,  the  830. 
Glotten  193. 
Clusserath  202. 
Gobem  191. 
Goblenz  106. 
Gochem  198. 
G611n  170. 
Colmar  321. 
Cologne  26. 

Altenmarkt  47. 

Apostles^  Church  49. 

Aquarium  65. 

Archiepisc.  Palace  61. 

Arsenal  50. 

Art  EzhibiUona  29. 

Baths  29. 

Bayenthurm  52. 

Botanical  Garden  55.27. 

Bottmiihle  52. 

Breite  Strasse  49. 

Bridge-of-Boats  47. 

Carnival  28. 

Cathedral  32. 

Cemetery  56. 

Christuskirche  53. 

City  Library  61. 

CoUeoliOBf  29. 

Commercial  High 
School  64. 

Concerts  28. 

Eau  de  Cologne  29. 

Eigelstein-Thor  64. 

Flora  Garden  65.  27. 

Fountains  38.  43.  47. 

Ck>vemment  50. 

Gross-8t-Martin  47. 

Giirzenich,  the  44.  28. 

Hahnenthor  63. 

Hansa-Platz  68. 

Harbour  47. 

fierz-Jesu-Kirehe  63. 

Heumarkt  46. 

Hohe  Strasse  42. 


440 


INDEX. 


Cologne: 
Hospitals  48. 
Iron  Bridge  17. 
Jesuits'  Church  61. 
Joesfs  Collection  6% 
Kurfdrsten-Oarten  27. 
Law  Courts  49. 
Market  47. 

Mauritius  Church  49. 
Minorites*  Church  42. 
Museum,   Archiepiseo- 

pal  39. 
— ,  Historical  53. 
— .  Walh-af-BichartE 

39. 

—  of  Industrial  Art  63. 

—  of  Katural  Hiftory 
47. 

Neumarkt  49. 
Pfaffenthor  45. 
Post  Office  52.  29. 
Bace  Course  55. 
Railway  Stations  26.38. 
Rathhaus  43. 

—  Chapel  44. 
Beichsbank  62. 
Bing-Strasse  58.  58.  64. 
Bomergang  43. 
Bomer-Park  53. 
Bomerthurm  60. 
Bubens's  House  48. 
St.  Agnes  62. 

—  Andreas  62. 

—  Cecilia  48. 

—  Columba  48. 

—  Cunibert  62. 

—  George  48. 

—  Ctereon  60. 

—  Maria  im  Capitol  45. 

in  Lyskirchen  47. 

-r.  Martin  47. 

—  Pantaleon  48. 

—  Peter  48. 

—  Severin  43. 

—  Ursula  61. 
Severins-Thor  52. 
Sport-Plats  66. 
Stadt-Oarten  68.  27. 
Stadtwald  55. 
Statue  of  Fred.  Will. 

in.  46. 

Fred.Will.IV.48. 

WUliam  I.  48.  53. 

Bismarck  42. 

Moltke43. 

Worth  47. 

Steamboats  26.  29. 
Synagogue  48.  58. 
Technical  College  53 
Templars*  Lodge  46. 
Theatres  28.  48.  53. 
Tramways  28. 
Trinity  Church  46. 


Cologne: 

Ulre  Monument  63. 

—  Pforte  68. 

Volksgarten  63.  27. 

Wolkenburg,  the  48. 

Zoolog.  Oarden  64.  27. 
Colombey  179. 
Cond  194. 
Conder-Thal  110. 
Constance  4S6. 
Cons  181. 
Consen  13. 
Cordel  207. 
Comelimunster  13. 
Corray  198. 
Cortchenbro&eh  61. 
Cottenheim  207. 
Courcelles-snr-Nied  174. 
Cranenburg  69. 
Crefeld  66. 
Croff  200. 
Cronberg  245. 
Cronenberg  65. 
Cronthal  248. 
Cues  201. 
Curve  142.  241. 

Oaaven-See,  the  344. 
Dachsenbausen  116. 
Dachskopf,  the  115. 
Dagsburg,  the  (near  Bgis- 

heim)  323. 
—  (near  Zabem)  820. 
Dahn  301. 
Dalberg  169. 
Dambach  833. 
Dammerkirch  826. 
Dannenfels  286. 
Danube,  the  406. 
Darmstadt  261. 
Darscheid  206. 
Dattenberg  73. 
Dauchstein,  ruin  276. 
Daun  208.   • 

Dauner  Maare,  the  209. 
Dausenau  216. 
Dehm,  castle  220. 
Deidesheim  288. 
Dellbr«lck  25. 
Densborn  206. 
Denzlingen  877. 
Derkum  20S. 
Demau  99. 
Dettenbach  411. 
DettweUer  316. 
Detzem  202. 
Deurenbui^,  ruin  119. 
Deutsch-Ayricourt  318. 
Deutsch-Rumbach  337. 
Deutz  65.  62.  66. 
Devant-les-Ponts  190. 
DevU's  Ladder  126. 
Dhaun  171. 


DiebUch  191. 
Diedenbergen  241. 
Diedenhofen  190. 
Diedesfeld  289. 
Diedesheim  276. 
Diedolshausen  842.         % 
Diefenbach  292. 
Diekirch  169. 
Dielkirchen  170. 
Diemerin^en  316. 
Diemerstein  293. 
Dierdorf  219. 
Dieringhausen  66. 
Dietkirchen  219. 
Dietz  218. 
Dillenburg  66. 
DUlingen  180. 
Dilsberg,  castle  274. 
Dinglingen  376. 
Dinkelberg  427. 
Dinkholder  Brunnen  116. 
Dinslaken  19. 
Disibodenberg  170. 
Dobel  354.  388. 
Dockweiler  208. 
Dogem  432. 
Ddggingen  416. 
Dolhain  3. 
Dollendorf  81. 
Dommelberg,  the  116. 
Donatusberg  73. 
Donaueschingen  405. 
Donnersberg,  the  %6. 
Donon,  the  331.  333. 
Dordrecht  16. 
Dorilsheim  332. 
Dormagen  65. 
Dornach  324.  349. 
Domberg  260.  261. 
Domheim  250. 
Dornholshausen  244. 
Dornigheim  262. 
Dorrenbach  291. 
Dos^nheim  316.  266. 
Dottelbach  396. 
Dottingen  385. 
Dotzheim  148. 
Drachenburg  96. 
Drachenfels,  castle  98. 
—  (Palatinate)  298.  901. 
Draisohberg  79^. 
Drei  Aehren  846. 
Dreibrunn  318. 
Dreien-Egisheim  823. 
Drei-Fur8tenstein;394. 
Dreihof  298. 
Drei-Markstein  360. 
Dreimfihlen  204. 
Dreis  208. 

Dreisam,  the  879.  412. 
Dreisen  286. 
Dreistein,  ruin  834. 
Driebergen  17.  J^ 


INDEX. 


441 


t)romersheim  285. 
Dmsenheim  299. 
Dudeldorf  207. 
Dudweiler  173. 
Duisburg  19.  62. 
Diimpelfeld  101. 
Durbacb  375. 
Diiren  14. 
Diirkheim  287. 
Durlach  352. 
Diirrenbach  292. 
Diirrbeim  405. 
Dusemond  201. 
Diisseldorf  20.  61. 
Dutenhofen  67. 
Dyck,  Schloss  60. 

Eberards-Clausen  198. 
Eberbach  (Bbeingau)  133. 

—  (on  the  Neckar)  2'74. 
Ebernacb  194. 
Ebernburg  169.  170. 
Ebersbeim  321. 
Eberstadt  255. 
Eberstein,  castle  392. 
Ebersteinburg  372. 
Ebertsheim  287. 
Ebnet  413. 
Echternach  189. 
Eckardsberg,  the  385. 
Eckfeld  210. 
Ecklrch  337. 

Eckle,  the  391.  394. 
Edelfrauengrab,  the  396. 
Edelmannskopf,  the  400. 
Edenkoben  290. 
Edesheim  290. 
Ediger  194. 
Edigheim  279. 
Edaardsthal  263. 
Efringen  386. 
Egerten  423. 
Egisheim  323. 
Ehr  115. 

Ehrang  198.  202.  207. 
Ehrenbreitstein  111. 
Ehrenburg  192. 
Ehrenfeld  16. 
Ehrenfels  127. 
Ehrenthal  (Rhine)  119. 

—  (Saarbriicken)  174. 
Ehringshaasen  66. 
Eibingen  182. 
Eichberg  134. 
Eichelberg  261. 
Eichelhiitte  212. 
Eichelspitze  377. 
Eichhofen  333. 
Elchstetten  377. 
Eifel,  the  202. 
Eilendorf  14. 
Eimeldingen  386. 
Einach  400. 


Binod  295.  300. 
Eisenbach  294. 
Eisenberg  287. 
Eisenschmitt  212. 
Eiserne  Hand  143. 
Eitorf  66. 
Elberfeld  68. 
Elfenmiihle  196. 
Elisenhohe,  the  130. 
Ellenz  194. 
Eller  195. 
— ,  Schloss  25. 
Elmshausen  260. 
Elmsteiner-Thal  293. 
Elsasshausen  292. 
Elsdorf  15. 
Elsenbom  13. 
Elten  18.  59. 
EltviUe  134.  142. 
Eltviller  Au,  the  135. 
Eltz,  Schloss  192. 
Elzach  412. 
Elzhof  404. 
Emberm^nil  318. 
Emmaburg,  the  8.  13. 
Emmendingen  377. 
Emmerich  18. 
Empel  18. 
Ems  212. 
Enchenberg  315. 
Ender-Thal,  the  194.  208. 
End  ersburff_197. 
Endingen  377. 
Engeln  104. 
Engelport,  ruin  193. 
Engelsberg  263. 
Engelskanzel,  the  372. 
Engelsley,  the  101. 
Engelthal.  the  90. 
Engen  406. 
Engenthal  820. 
Bngers  77.  83. 
EnghoU,  the  123. 
Enkenbach  286.  170. 
Enkirch  199. 
Ennepe,  the  65. 
Ennert,  the  81. 
Bnsch  202. 
Ensdorf  180. 
Ensisheim  324. 
Ensival  3. 

Enzklosterle  354.  393. 
Enzweiler  172. 
Epfenhofen  433. 
Epflg  333. 
Eppelheim  275. 
Eppelsheim  286. 
Eppenhain  246. 
Bppstein  249.  281* 
Brbach  (Odenwald)  268. 
—  (Eheingau)  184.  142. 
Erbenheim  249. 
Erden  200. 


Erdmanns-Hohle  427. 
Erdorf  206. 
Erensberg,  the  205. 
Erfelden  250.  254. 
ErfWeiler  Schloss  301. 
Erkelenz  60. 
Erkrath  65. 

Erlenbach  261.  301.  336. 
Erlenbad  375. 
Erlenbrack  414. 
Ernsthausen  220. 
Ernstthal  263. 
Erpel  72.  83. 
Erpolzheim  287. 
Erschheimer  Capelle 

274. 
Erstein  320. 
Erzingen  433. 
Erzkasten,  the  384. 
Eschbach  220.  299.  413. 
Eschborn  245. 
Escheck  409. 
Eschelbronn  275. 
Eschelmer  342. 
Eschersheim  239. 
Eschery  387. 
Eschhofen  220. 
Bschweiler  14. 
Eselsfilrth  286.  170. 
Esemael  2. 
Essen  62. 
Ettenheim  376. 
Ettlingen  361. 
Ettringer-Bellenberg  907. 
Enlbach  263. 
Eulsbach  261. 
Eupen  13. 
Euskirchen  203. 
Entingen  409. 
Bvrenll  380. 
Byachmahl  854.  388. 

Fachingen  218. 
Fahl  418. 
Fahrenbach  261. 
Fahrnau  426.  427. 
Faid  194. 

Faite,  Chateau  de  337. 
Falkau  419. 
Falkenberg  174. 
Falkenburg  126. 
Falkenlei,  the  197. 
Falkensteig  413. 
Falkenstein  (Alsace)  815. 
—  (near  Herrenalb)  338. 

(Hollenthal)  414. 

(Kinzigthal)  408. 

(Taunus)  245. 

(Winnweiler)  170. 
Fankel  194. 
Farrenkopf,  the  402. 
ParschWeiler  915» 
Faud^  842.  le 


442 


INDEX. 


FauIenfUrst,  the  430. 
Favorite,  the  372. 
Fegersheim  820. 
Feldberg  (Taunus)  246 

—  (Black  Forest)  417. 
Feldkirch  324. 
Feldsee,  the  416. 
Felleringen  351. 
Felsberg,  the  (Eifel)  205. 

—  (Odenwald)  258, 
Felsenineer,  the  259. 
Fentsch  190. 
Ferette  325. 
Ferreg  201. 

Filsen  116.  141. 
Filzen  201. 
Finsterthal  289. 
Finstingen  318. 
Finthen  165. 
Fischbach  (Nahe)  172. 

—  (Nassau)  246. 

—  Thai,  the  125.  249. 
Fischbodle  847. 
Flacht  145. 
Fladenstein  301. 
Fleckenstein  802. 
Fleckertshohe,  the  117. 
Fliessem  206. 
Flomersheim  281. 
Flonheim  285.  170. 
Florsheim  241. 
Flushing  61. 

Fohren  198. 
Fohrenbtthl  402. 
Forbach  (Baden)  393. 

—  (Lorraine)  174. 
Formerich,  the  208. 
Fomich  74. 
Forsbach  26. 
Forst  288. 
Fouday  330. 
Fraipont,  castle  3. 
Francorchamps  18. 
Frankenberg,  the  12.  14. 
Frankenburg  336. 
Frankeneck  293. 
Frankenstein  (Odenwald) 

255. 

—  (Palatinate)  293. 
Frankenthal  28a 
Frankfort  222. 

Academy  234. 
Archiv-Gebaude  230. 
Art  Union  238.  224. 
Bethmann's  Museum 

236. 
Boeme's  Hon.  234. 
Borse  234. 

Brentano'8  Mon.  235. 
Bridges  231. 
Cathedral  229. 
Cattle  Market  286. 
Cemeteries  234.  235. 


Frankfort : 
Charlemagne^s    Statue 

231. 
Ghristnskirche  236. 
Conservatorium  235. 
Deutsch-Ordenshaus 

236. 
Eschenheimer  Thurm 

234. 
Exchange,  New  234. 
— ,  Old  226. 
French   Reformed 

Church  225. 
FfLrsteneck,  Haus  231. 
Goldene  Wage  229. 
Goethe  House  226. 

—  Monument  225. 

—  Museum  227. 

—  Platz  225. 
Gutenberg's     Monu- 
ment 2So. 

Hauptwache  226. 
Hessian  Monument  235, 
Hippodrome  289. 
Hospitals  282.  239. 
Judengasse  282. 
Justitia  Fountain  227. 
Justlz-Palast  226. 
Kaiser-Strasse  225. 
Eatharinenkirche  225. 
Law  Courts  226. 
Lessing's  Bust  232. 
Library  232. 
Liebfrauenkirche  226. 
Luther-Kirche  235. 
Magi,  Church  of  the  286. 
Market  226.  236. 
Mint  227. 
Museum,  Commercial 

234. 
— ,  Historical  230. 

—  of  Art  and  Industry 
232 

Nicol'aikirche  228. 

Opera  Houae  233. 

Palm  Garden  235. 

Pfingstweide  235. 

Picture  Gallery,  Muni- 
cipal 236. 

Police  Office  226. 

PolytechnicSociety232. 

Post  Office  226.  223. 

RaDway  Station  222. 
225. 

Record  Office  230. 

Rententhurm  228. 

Romer  227. 

Rossmarkt  225. 

Rothschild  House  232. 

—  Library  229. 
Saalbau  231. 
Saalhof  228. 
Sachsenhausen  236. 


Frankfort : 

St.  Leonhard's  Church 
228 

St.  Paul's  Ch.  227. 

St.  Peter's  Ch.  234. 

Cemetery  234. 

Schiller's .  Monument 
225. 

Schone  Aussicht  281. 

Schopenhauer's  House 
231. 

—  Monument  232. 

Schiitzenbrunnen  286. 

Senckenberg  Institu- 
tion 284. 

Slaughter  House  286. 

Stadel  Art  Institute236. 

Synagogue  232. 

Theatres  224.  225.  234. 

Therapeutic  Institute 
239. 

Thum  und  Taxis,  Pal. 
of  the  Prince  of  226. 

Town  Library  232. 

Tuchgaden  229. 

War  Monument  234. 

William  L,  Mon.  238. 

Zeil  226. 

Zoolog.  Garden  236. 
Frankisch-Grumbach262. 
Frauenalb  388. 
Frauenkirche  102. 
Frauensteig-Felsen  413. 
Frauenstein  135. 
Freiburg  377. 
Freienfels  220. 
Freiersbach  398. 
Freiheit  259. 
Freinsheim  287. 
Freiolsheim,  361. 
Frdland  342. 
Fremersberg,  the  378. 
Fremmersdorf  180. 
Frenz  15. 
Frescati  178.  179. 
Freudenstadt  408. 
Friedberg  67.  245. 
Friedenweiler  415. 
Friedrichsdorf  246. 
Friedrichsfeld  258. 
Friedrichshof  246. 
Friedrichssegen  212. 
Friedrichsthal    (Black 

Forest)  394. 
—  (Nahe)  178. 
Friedrich- Wilhelms  - 

Hiitte  65.  81. 
Friesenherg  369. 
Friesenheim  376.  279. 
Frdhliche-Mannskopf 

244. 
Frohnschwand  430. 
Froschweiler  292. 


INDEX. 


443 


Friicht  216. 
Fachsbardt,  the  96. 
Fachshofen  101. 
Fnclistai&a  247. 
Ftirsats  416. 

Fiirstenau,   Schloss  263. 
Fiirstenberg,  ruin  125. 
Fursteneck  39T. 
Fiirstenlager,  the  256. 
Fiirth  261. 
Furtwangen  409. 
Futzen  433. 

Gadem  261. 
Gademheim  260. 
Qaggenau  391. 
Gaimiihle  264. 
Gaisbaeh  370.  397. 
Gaishohle  375. 
Gaisthal  888. 
Galz,  the  845. 
Gambsheim  299. 
Gans,  the  169. 
Gansehals  105. 
Garbenheim  221. 
Gaa-Algesheim  139- 
Gaabiekelheim  286. 
Gaugrehweiler  170. 
Gaulsheim  132.  139. 
Gau-Odernheim  280. 
Gausbach  393. 
Gebweiler  348. 
Gebweiler  Belchen  349. 
Gees  204. 

Geiersberg  201.  257. 
Geiersburg,  the  288. 
Geilenkirchen  60. 
Geilnau  218. 
Geisbach-Thal  99. 
Geisberg,  the  94.  96. 

—  (Alsace)  291. 
Geisenheim  132.  141. 
Geisenkopfchen  HO. 
Geisingen  406. 
Geispolsheim  320. 
Geldern  57. 
Gemmerich  115. 
Gemiind  15.  203.  209. 
Gemiinder  Maar  209. 
Gengenbach  400. 
Gensingen  285. 
Georgenborn  143. 
Gereath  336. 
Germersheizu  298. 
Gernsbach  391. 
Gernsheim  250. 
Geroldseck  319. 
Gerolsaa  370. 
Gerolstein  125.  144. 

—  (Kyllthal)  204. 
Gerresheim  65. 
Gersbach  429. 
Gertelbach-Schlucht  389. 


Gertweiler  332. 
Geschwand  426.  428. 
Gevelsberg  65. 
Gewenheim  351. 
Gickelsburg  244. 
Giersberg  417. 
Giessen  tt7. 
Gillenfeld  210. 
Gimmeldingen  288. 
Girbaden,  Schloss  329. 
Gladbach,  Bergisch  25. 
— ,  Miinchen  60. 
Glan  294. 
Glashiitte  375. 
Glaswald-See,  the  407. 
Gleiberg,  ruin  67. 
Gleisweiler  290. 
Glotter-Thal,  the  413. 
Goch  57.  19. 
Goddelau  250.  254. 
Godesberg  79. 
— ,  castle  80.  69. 
Godramstein  299. 
Gohl-Viaduct  13. 
Goldene  Meil,  the  79. 
Goldstein  240. 
Gollheim  286. 
Gondorf  191. 
Gonsenheim  285. 
Gorze  178. 
Gossersweiler  301. 
Gottenheim  384. 
Gottesaue  361. 
Gottmadingen  435. 
Gottschlag-Thal,  the  396, 
Gouda  17. 
Goutte  342. 
Goxweiler  332. 
Graach  200. 

Graben-Neudorf  279.  352. 
Grafenberg  25. 
Grifenberg,  the  135. 
Grafenhausen  376.  433. 
Grafenstaden  320. 
Grafenwerth  69.  83. 
Grafinburg,  the  199. 
Grandfontaine  331. 
Graufthal  816. 
Graupenwerth  68. 
Grau-Eheindorf  68. 
Grauschlagfelsen  329. 
Gravelotte  177. 
Graveneck  220. 
Greifenstdn  319.  66. 
Grendelbruch  329. 
Grenzach  431. 
Grenzau  83. 
Grenzhausen  83. 
Gresgener  Hohe,  the  426. 
Gressenich  14. 
Gressweiler  329 
Grevenbroich  15. 
Grevenhausen  293. 


Griesbach  399. 
Grieshelm  248.  256. 
Griessen  433. 
Grimbach,  the.  369. 
Grimmelshofen  433. 
Groesbeck  59. 
Gronau  260. 
Gross-Bieberau  262. 
Grossenbaum  20. 
Grossgerau  251. 
Gross-Geroldseck  319. 
Gross-Hettingen  190. 
Gross-Karben  68. 
Grosskonigsdorf  16. 
Grc^smann  331. 
Grossrohrheim  250. 
Gross-Sachsen  268. 
Gross-Umstadt  262. 
Grotzingen  853. 
Gruiten  63. 
Grumbach  263. 
Grunern  385. 
Grunhaus  202. 
Griiningen  405. 
Griinstadt  286. 
Guckley  100. 
Gudenauer-ThaL  the  80. 
Giils  191. 

Gumpelscheuer  354.  393. 
Gundersheim  286. 
Gundershofen  314. 
Gilnsbach  345. 
Guntersblum  280. 
Giintersthal  384. 
Gunzenbach-Thal  369. 
Gustavsburg  240.  251. 
Gutach  400.  412. 
Giitenbach  410. 
Gutenfels,  castle  123.  141. 
Gutleuthof  291. 
Gutmadingen  406. 
Guttenburg  433. 

Haagen  427. 
Haan  03. 

Haanenburg,  the  82. 
Haardt  289. 

Haardter  Hofe ,  the  198. 
Haberacker  317.  819. 
Habersaul  16. 
Habonville  178. 
Habsheim  326. 
Hachenburg  219. 
Hachimette  842. 
Hadamar  219. 
Hagelschioss  384. 
Hagen  65. 
Hagenau  292.  314. 
Hagenbach  298. 
Hagenbriicke  395. 
Hagendingen  190. 
Eager  Hof,  the  82. 
—  Koppelchen  S^ 


444 


INDEX. 


Habn  143. 

Hahnenberg,  the  309. 336. 
Hahnstatten  U5. 
Haicot  83T. 
Haiger  66. 
Hain  104. 
Hainstadt  262. 
Halberg,  the  174. 
Halbmeil  407. 
Haldenhof  413.  434. 
Haldern  18. 
HaUgarten  183. 
Haltern  19. 
Haltingen  386. 
Hambach  173.  289.  818. 
Hammereisenbach  406. 
Hammerstein  (on  the 

Rhine)  74   83. 
^  (Black  Forest)  428. 
Hanan  262. 

Handschuchsbeim  268. 
Hanselberg,  the  133. 
Hanweiler  315. 
Hardt,  the  208. 
Hardwald  244. 
Harflf  16. 

Hannersbach  398. 
Harpolinger  Scbloss  432. 
Hartenburg  287. 
Hartenrod  66. 
Hartwald,  the  326. 
Harzheim  286. 
Hasel  427. 
Haselbaeh  Valley  121. 

—  WaterfaD  438. 
H4senberg  101.  114. 
Hasenbuig  420. 
Haslacb  M. 
Haspe  66. 
Hassloch  288. 
Hattenheim  133.  142. 
Hattersbeim  241. 
Hattingen  406. 
Hatzenport  192. 
Hauenstein  300. 
Hauptstubl  294. 
Hausach  401. 

Hausen  (Palatinate)  287. 

—  (Roer  Valley)  15. 

—  (Wiesenthal)  426. 

—  vorm  Wald  416. 
Hausern  (Black  Forest) 

420.  430. 

—  (near  Egisbeim)  323 
Haates  Ghanmes  343. 
Hayingen  190. 
Hebelshobe  426. 
Hecklingen  376. 
Heddembeim  239. 
Heddesbacb  261. 
Heddesdorf  76. 
Heerdt  56. 

Hegne  435. 


Heidbnrg  401. 
Heidelberg  264. 
Heidenfels  239. 
Heidenkamm  82. 
Heidenmauer,  the  (Diirk- 
heim)  288. 

—  (Odilienberg)  834. 
Heidenstadt  316. 
Heidesheintk  140. 
Heilbrannen,  the  103. 
Heiligenberg,  chat.  265. 
— ,  hiU  272.  293. 

—  (Vosges)  329. 
Heiligenstein  (Vosges) 

883. 

—  (near  Speyer)  298. 
HeiUg-Kreuz  (chapel)346. 

—  Steinach  261. 
Heimbacb  (Engers)  83. 

CNabe)  172. 

(Roer)  15. 
Heimburg)  ruin  126. 
Heimersheim  98. 
Heissenatein  348. 
Heisterbach  96.  81. 
Heisterbacherrott  81. 
Heitersheim  385. 
Helenabrann  61. 
HeUentbal  203. 
Helmstadt  275. 
Heltorf  20. 
Hemingen  318. 
Hemmersbach  15. 
Hemmessen  98. 
Hemsbach  267. 
Hengebach  15. 
Hennef  66. 
Heppenheim  267. 
Heppingen  97. 
Hepsehingen  426. 
Herbesthal  3. 
Herbitzheim  316. 
Herblingen  435. 
Herbolzheim  376. 
Herbom  66. 
Herchen  66. 
Herchenberg  104. 
Herdorf  66. 
Hergenrath  3.  13. 
Hering  263. 
Herlingen  174. 
Herlisbeim  298.  323. 
Hermanns-Hiitte  77. 
Hermeskeil  173.  202. 
Hemsbeim  285. 
Herrenalb  888. 
Herrenberg  347. 
Herrenschwand  428. 
Herrenstein  316. 
Herrenwies  890. 
Herrischried  432. 
Her8bach'329 
Herschbaeh  101. 


Herschwlesen  118. 
Herthen  431. 
Henberg  244. 
Herzogenrath  60. 
Herzogenhom,  the  418. 
Hessen  318. 
Heasheim  279. 
Hettenleitheim  287. 
Hetzbach  264. 
Hetzerath  198. 
Heubach  262. 
Heuchelheim  290. 
Heakopf  888. 
Hillesheim  204. 
Hilpertsau  392. 
Himmelreich,  the  (Black 

Forest)  413. 
— ,  —  (Moselle)  200. 
Himmerod  212. 
Hinter-Langenbach  894. 
Hinter-Seebach  395. 
Hinter-Weidenthal  300. 
Hinterzarten  414. 
Hintsebingen  406.  433. 
Hirschberg,  the  94. 
Hirscbhom  274. 
Hirschkopf  257. 
Hirschlache,  the  412. 
Hirschsprung  414. 
Hirzenach  119. 
Hirzenstein  850. 
Hirzwald  404. 
Hochburg,  ruin  377. 
Hocbdabl  65. 
Hdchenschwand  430. 
Hochfeld  62. 

,  the  829.  330.  335. 
Hochfelden  316. 
Hochflrst,  the  415. 
Hocbheim  241. 
Hochkopf  398.  419.  428. 
Hochsimmer.  the  207. 
Hochspeyer  170.  293. 
Hocbst  (Odenwald)  263 

—  (Taunns)  240.  218. 
Hochstadt  (Ddrnigheim) 

262. 

—  (Rhen.  Palat.)  298. 
Hochstatten  170.  259. 
Hochs  tatter -Thai  256. 
Hochstanfen,  the  420. 
Hochwald,  the  14. 
Hochwart,  the  414. 
Hockenbeim  279. 

H  of  eld  173. 
Hofen  292. 
Hofen  363. 
Hoffnungsthal  26. 
Hofheim  248.  256.  257. 
Hofheimer  Capelle  248. 
Hofstetten  401. 
Hof-^ollgrund  115. 
Hoh-Barr  819.  [^ 


INDEX. 


445 


Hohe  Acht,  the  101. 102. 
Hohe  Lei,  the  217. 
Hohe  Mark,  the  247. 
Hohe  Mohr,  the  426. 
Hohenhaden,  castle  3 
Hohenburg,  the  302. 
Hohenbusch  6L 
Hoheneck,  the  347. 
— ,  ruin  126. 
Hohen-Egisheim  323. 
Hohenfels  206. 
Hohengeroldseck  401. 
Hohen-Honnef  82. 
Hohenhowen  406. 
Hohenkrahen  406.  . 
Hohenlupfen  433. 
Hohen-Bappoltstein  340. 
Hohenroder  Schloss  375 
Hohenstein  144.  260.      . 
HohensiUzen  286. 
Hohentwiel,  the  435. 
Hobe  Warth  101. 
Hohe  Wurzel,  the  143. 
Hohe  Zlnken,  the  419. 
Hoh-Konigsburg  338. 
Hohlandsburg  344. 
Hohlenfels  144.  131. 
Hohloh  354.  388.  392. 
Hohnack  345. 
Hohneck  347. 
Hohr  83. 
Hohrodberg  345. 
Hohwald  m 
Hdllenhaken,  the  431. 
Hollenpass,  the  414. 
HoUenthal,  the  412. 
Holler  Hiihle  291. 
Hollrlch  217. 
HdllBteig  414. 
Holzhausen  121. 144.245. 
Holsinshaas  424. 
Holzlebruck  415. 
Holzmaar,  the  210. 
Holzwald  407. 
HolzwalderHohe  399.407. 
Homberg  62. 
Homburg,  Baths  241. 
—  (Palatinate)  294. 
Honnef  82. 
Honnerafh  204. 
Honningen  74.  83.  101. 
Hontheim  197. 
Horchheim   113.  110. 
Hordt  293. 
Hordten  391. 
Horheim  433. 
Horn  (Ahr  Valley)  101. 
Homberg  401. 
Homberg,  the  392. 
Homisgrinde,    the    390. 
Hfirale,  the  422. 
Hdraleberg  412.  430. 
HorMee,  the  392. 


Horrem  15. 
Horrweiler  285. 
Hottingen  432. 
Hubacker  397. 
Hub,  Auf  der  32a 
Hiifingen  405.  416. 
Hugstein  848. 
Hugstetten  384. 
Huhnerberg,  the  121. 
Hummerich  102. 
Hunaweier  840. 
Hundlingen  315. 
Hundsbach  390. 
Hundseck  380. 
Hundskopf  399. 
Htiningen  328. 
Hunnenrinr,  the  173. 
Hunspach  292. 
Hunsriick,  the  165. 
Huttenheim  352. 
Hutten-Thal,  the  168.169. 
Httttenbmnnen-Thal  289. 

390. 
Hiittingen  207. 
Hntzenbach  393. 

Ibach  396. 
Ibcn  170. 
Ibenthal,  the  413. 
Ichendorf  15. 
Idar  172. 
Idstein  249. 
Igel  188. 
Iggelheim  288. 
Igney-Avricovrt  818. 
Igstadt  249. 
Ihringen  384. 
Ilbesheim  285. 
lllenau  375. 
Illfurt  325. 
lUkirch  320. 
Immekeppel  26. 
Immendingen  406.  433. 
Immeneich  431. 
Immlingen  318. 
Imsweiler  170. 
Ingelheim  140. 
Ingelheimer  Aue  136. 
Ingenheim  290 
Ingersheim  341. 
Ingweiler  316. 
Insheim  290. 
Irlich  76. 

Isenach-Thal,the287. 288. 
Isenburg  (Alsace)  323. 
—  (Sayn  Valley)  83. 
Ispringen  353. 
Issel  198    202. 
Istein  386. 
Ittenbach  94. 

Jacobsberger  Hof  116. 
Jacobsweiler  286. 


Jagdhaus  (Baden)  374. 
Jagdschloss(Niederwa]d) 

138. 
Jagerthal  302. 
Jechtingen  377. 
Jesaitenhof  68. 
Jockgrim  298. 
Johannisberg,  Dorf  133. 
— ,  Schloss  132. 

—  im  Grund  133. 

—  (Nahe  Valley)  171. 
Josephshof  200. 
Jouy-au3(-Arche8  179. 
Jugenheim  255. 
Jiilich  or  Juliers  15. 
Jooghols  347 
Jiinkerath  204. 

Kaferthal  250.  258. 
Eaferwaldkopf  395. 
Kahle  Wasen,  the  346. 
Kailbach  264. 
Eaimt  199. 
Kaiserberg,  the  73. 
Kaiserburg,  ruin  341. 
Eaisersesch  208- 
Kaiserslautem  293.  286. 
Eaisersmh  15. 
Kaiserstuhl,  the  377. 
Kaiserswerth  25. 
Kaiser- Wilhehn-Brucke 

63. 
Kuldenkirchen  16. 
Kalenberg  376. 
Kalenborner  Hohe  101. 
Kalk  62.  65. 
Kalkofen  218. 
Kahnit,  the  290. 
Kalscheuren  81. 
Ealsmnnt,  ruin  221. 
Kaltenbach  800. 
Ealtenbom  101. 
Ealtenbronn  354.  392. 
Ealtenengers  77. 
Ealtenherberg  410. 
EammerbergerMuhIel25. 
Eammerforst  131. 
Eandel,  the  411. 
Kandem  423. 
Eapellen  291. 
Eappel  376.  416. 
Eappelbronn  331. 
Eappele,  the  388. 
Eappeler-Thal  395.  413. 
Eappelrodeck  395. 
Kappelwindeck  389. 
Eapsweyer  291. 
Earlsdorf  352. 
Karlssprung  318. 
Earthaus  182.  188.  189. 
Earthause,  the  110. 
Easacker  423. 
Easbach  TSooqIc 


446 


INDEX. 


Kastanienberg ,  the  286 
Kaatelburg,  puin  411. 
Kattelstein  407. 
Katz,  the,  ruin  120. 
Katzenbach  263. 
Katzenberg  331. 
Katzenbuckel,  the  274. 
Eatzenelnbogen  121. 
Katzenstein,  the  329. 
Katzenthal  341. 
Kautenbach  199. 
Eauzenberg,  the  167. 
Kaysersberg  341. 
Kehl  376. 
Eelberg  102. 
Kelchaattel,  the  Hohe  434. 
EeUerskopf,  the  154. 
Kelsterbach  240. 
Kernel  144. 

Kemmenauer  Hohe  216 
Kempen  57.  61. 
Kempenich  104. 
Rempten  132.  285. 
Eennfas  197. 
Kenzingen  376. 
Kerpen  204 
Eesselberg  403.  404. 
Kesselheim  77. 
Eeaseling  101. 
Kessenich  90. 
Kesten  201. 
Eestenborg  289. 
Kestenholz  386. 
Eestert  141. 
Kettenheim  286. 
Keuchingen  181. 
Eevelaer  57. 
Eiedrich  136. 
Eienberg  409- 
Rienzheim  341. 
Kierberg  202. 
Kindel  200. 
Einderbeuren  197. 
Kindsbach  294. 
Kinheim  200. 
Kinzheim  336. 
Einzig,  the  376.  400  etc 
Eippenheim  376. 
Eirchberg  351.  185. 
Eirchbrombach  263. 
Eirchheim  (Alsace)  328. 

—  an  der  Eck  287. 

—  (near  Heidelberg)  362. 
Eirchheimbolanden  285. 
Eirchlei  200. 
EirchweUer  205. 
Eirchzarten  413. 
Eirmadscheid  201. 
Eirn  171. 

Rimach  404. 
Rirnbach  406. 
Eirneck  404. 
Eimeck-Thal,  the  332. 


Kirrweiler  290. 
Eirsch  202. 
Kirschhausen  261. 
Eislau  352. 
Elans,  the  181. 
Klause,  the  133. 
Elein-Amsberg  302. 
Elein-Anheim  262. 
Elein-Basel  386. 
Elein-Blittersdorf  316. 
Eleinenbroich  61. 
Eleingeran  261. 
Elein-Geroldseck  319. 
Eleinkems  386. 
Eleinsteinbach  353. 
Elein-Umstadt  262. 
Elein-WiDgen  802. 
Elengen  405. 
Elimbach  302. 
Elingen  290. 
Elingenmtlnster  290. 
EUngenthal  333. 
Elinzkopf  346. 
Elopp,  castle  129. 
Elosterberg  370. 
Elosterle,  the  407. 
Elosterrath  60. 
Eloster-Reichenbach  394. 
Enechtsteden,  abbey  55. 
Eniebis  399. 
Knielingen  361. 
Enoden  260. 
Enoringen  290. 
Kochem  174. 
Eockelsberg  188. 
Eogenheim  321. 
Eohlhof,  the  272. 
Eohlscheidt  60. 
Eollmarsreuthe  377. 
EoUnan  412. 
Eolmbach  260. 
Eondelwald  197. 
Edndringen  377. 
Eonig  263. 
— ,  the  196. 

Eonigsbach  (near  Diirk- 
heim)  288. 

—  (near  Durlach)  353. 
Eonigsberg,  the  294. 
Konigsdorf  15. 
Ednigsfeld  404. 
Konigshofen  320. 
Eonigsmachem  190. 
Eouigsmiihle  289. 
Eonigstein  (Taunus)  246. 
Eonigstuhl    (near    Hei- 
delberg) 272. 

—  (near  Bhens)  114. 
Eonigswinter  91.  69.  81. 
Eorb  219. 

Eorbmattfelsen  373. 
Eork  375. 
Eorretsherg,  the  102. 


Eostheim  240.  251. 
Eovenich  199. 
Eowerich  202. 
Erahenbad  408. 
Erahnenberg,  the"76. 
Erappenfels  299.  344. 
Erehberg,  the  260. 
Ereuzau  15. 
EreoBberg  (Ahr)  101. 

—  (near  Bonn)  89. 

—  (near  Boppard)  117. 
Ereoxnach  165. 
Eriftel  248. 

Erinne  424. 
Eripp  73. 
Eronweiler  172. 
Eropsburg,  the  290. 
Erotsingen  386. 
Eruft  102. 

Erufter  Ofen,  the  102. 
Erambach  261. 
Eriit  351. 
Etldinghofen  81. 
Eiihkopf,  the  110. 
Eiihr  191. 
Kuppenheim  391 
Eiippersteg  25. 
Kurzenhausen  293. 
Ensel  294. 
Eiissenberg  433. 
Eutt  400. 
Entterau  431. 
Eybfelsen,  the  384. 
Eyll,  the  2(».  206.  207. 
Eyllburg  206. 
Eyrburg,  ruin  172. 

Laach,  Abbey  of  104. 

—  (Ahr  Valley)  100. 
Laacher  Kopf,  the  104. 
Laacher  See,  the  104. 
Labroque  829. 

Lac  Blanc,  the  343. 

—  Noir,  the  348. 
Ladenborg  258. 
Lahn,  the  67.  127.  212. 
Lahneck  114. 

Lahr  876. 
Lambrecht  293. 
Lambsheim  281. 
Lammersdorf  13. 
Lamperthelm  250. 
Lampertsmiihle  294. 
Landau  290. 
Landeck  377. 
Landen  2. 
Landesbach  346. 
Landkem  206. 
Landsberg  169.  383. 
Landshut  (Moselle)  200. 
Landskron  (Palat.)  280. 
— ,  the  (Ahr  VaUey)  97. 
Landsperg,  rain  8^ 


I 

i 


INDEX. 


447 


Landstuh)  294. 
Landwasser  401.  412. 
Langeck  425. 
Langenau,  Burg  217. 
Langenberg  329. 
Langenbrand  393. 
Langenbriicken  362. 
Langenfeld  25. 
liangenkandel  361. 
Langenlonsheim  165. 
Langenordrach-Thal  415. 
Langen-Schwalbach  143. 
Langenthal  261. 
Langerwehe  14. 
Langgons  67. 
Langmeil  286.  170. 
Langstadt  262. 
Langsur  189. 
Lasserg  192. 
Lattem  346. 
Laubach  208. 
Laubbach  110. 
Laubenheim  (near 

Mayence)  279. 
—  (Nahe)  165. 
Laubus  220. 
Laucbenweier  347. 
Laudenbaoh  257. 
Lauf  375. 

Laulen,  Schloss  434. 
Laufenbacher  Hof  101. 
Laufenburg  432 
Laufer  Schloss  375. 
Laukenmiihle,  the  125. 
Laumersheim  279. 
Laurenburg  218. 
Lautenbach  397. 
Lautenbach-Zell  34S. 
Lauter,  the  291.  301. 
Lauterbach  401.  403. 
Lanterecken  294. 
Lauterburg  298. 
Laaterfingen  318. 
Laatern  260. 
Lay  191. 
Leberau  337. 
Leber-Thal,  the  337. 
Leeheim  250. 
Legelshurst  375. 
Lehengericht ,  the  Vor- 

dere  and  Hintere  407. 
Lebenkopf^  the  430. 
Lehmen  191.  194. 
Leiberg  82. 
Leichlingen  63. 
Leichtweisflbohle  152. 
Leimbach  102. 
Leimen  352. 
Leiningen  286.  316. 
Leinsweiler  299. 
Leiwen  202. 
Lembach  302. 
Lemberg  315. 


Lemberg,  the  169.  170. 
Lengfeld  263. 
Leniaberg  140.  165.  285. 
Lennep  v&. 
Lenzkirch  419. 
Leopolds- Canal,  the  376. 
Leopoldshohe,  the  (near 
Baden)  369. 

—  (near  Bale)  386. 
Letterstatter  Hohe  407. 
Leubfldorf  73.  83. 
Leutershansen  266. 
Leutesdorf  75. 

Liblar  202.  16. 
Lichtenberg  316. 
Lichtenegg,  ruin  376. 
Lichtenthal  369. 
Liebeneck  116. 
Liebenstein  118. 
Liedberg  60. 
Li6ge  3. 
Li^pvre  337. 
Liers  101. 
Lieser  198.  201. 
LiUentbal  877. 
Limburg  (Nassau)  218 

—  (Belgium)  3. 

—  (Kaiserstuhl)  877. 

—  Abbey  287. 
Limersheim  820. 
Lindelbrunner  Schloss 

301. 
Lindenbach  215. 
Lindenberg  413. 
Lindenfels  260. 
Lindem  60. 
Lingenfeld  298. 
Lingolsheim  8'20. 
Linn  62. 
Linz  73.  83. 
Linzhausen  73. 
Lissendorf  204. 
Lissingen  205. 
Littenweiler  413. 
Litzelrdder  260. 
Litzig  199. 
Lobloch  288. 
Lobsann  292. 
Locherberg  398. 
Lochmiihle  100.  244. 
Loef  192. 

Loflfel-Thal,  the  414. 
LofTenau  388. 
LdfHngen  416. 
Logelbach  341.  344. 
Lohnberg  220. 
Lohrberg,  the  94.  97. 
Lohrsdorf  97. 
Longen  202. 
Longerich  55- 
Longkamp  200. 
Longwich  202. 
Lorch  125.  141. 


Lorchhausen  125. 
Lorchingen  318. 
Lorelei  121. 
Lorrach  427. 
Lorsbach  248. 
Lorsch  266. 
Lorsch  202. 
Lorzenbach  261. 
Losenich  2G0. 
Lossburg.Rodt  406. 
Louisa  250. 
Louisenthal  180. 
Lousberg,  the  12. 
Louvain  2. 
Lovenich  16. 
Lowenbriicken  182.  189. 
Lowenburg,  the  96. 
Ludwigshafen  278.  281. 
Ludwigshohe  260. 
— ,  Villa  290. 
Lug  301. 
Liilsdorf  68. 
Londenbiihl,  the  346. 
Lun^ville  318. 
Lurlei,  the  121. 
Lustadt  298. 
Luttenbach  346. 
Lutterbach  324.  349. 
Liittich  3. 

Liitzelbach  259.  339. 
Liitzelburg  317. 
-,  ruin  317.  333. 
Liitzelhardt  302. 
Liitzelhausen  329. 
Liitzelsachsen  257. 
Liitzelstein  316. 
Lutzerath  197. 
Luxembourg  189.  190. 
Luzieberg,  the  257. 

Maarsbergen  17. 
Maas.  the  16. 
Maastriclit  61. 
Machem  200. 
Madenburg,  the  300. 
Magdeberg.  the  406. 
Mahlberg  376. 
Maifeld,  the  207.  192. 
Haikammer  290. 
Main,  the  155.  224.  262. 
Hainan,  island  486. 
Mainkur  262. 
Mainz  154. 

Maisach-Thal,  the  398. 
Maiweiler  174. 
Maizi^res  190. 
Malancourt  178. 
Malberg,  the  (Ems)  215. 
— ,  chateau  206. 
Malbcrgskopf  73. 
Malchen,  the  255. 
Mallendar  77. 
Mallingen  190.       [^ 


448 


INDEX. 


Iklalmaison  178. 
Malmedv  13. 
Malsch  361. 
Malschbach  370. 
Hambach  426. 
Mammolshain  246. 
I^landerscheid  210. 
Mannelstein  334. 
Mannheim  276. 
Mannweiler  170. 
Marainviller  318. 
Harbach  (Alsace)  323. 

—  (Black  Fofest)  40B. 
Harcobrannen  184. 
Mai^arethenbof  94. 
Haria-Wald  16. 
Marienberg  117.  219. 
marienbom  286. 
Harienbnrg,  ruin  195. 

—  Bayenthal  68. 
Maricnfels  71.  115. 
Marienstatt  219. 
Harienthal,  monast.  (Al- 
sace) 132.  293. 

—  (Ahr  Valley)  99. 

—  (Palatinate)  288. 
Haring  198. 
Harkelflngen  435. 
Markirch  337. 
Marksburg  115. 
MarlborougbjTuin  190. 
Harlenheim  327. 
Harmoutier  922. 
Marnhelm  286. 
Mars-la-Tour  178. 
Martinsbof  200.  409. 
Hartinstein  171. 
Marvzell  888. 
Hasburg  206. 
Hasmiinster  351. 
Massevaux  861. 
Mastricht.  see  Maastricht. 
MatreUe  342.  343. 
Matzenbach  294. 
Hatzenheim  321. 
Hauer  275. 
Hanlbnrg  427. 
Maursmiinster  327. 
Maus,  ruin  119. 
Mauseberg,  the  209. 
Maxau  861. 
Maxburg,  the  289. 
Maximiliansau  361. 
Mayen  207. 

Mayence  154. 
Mayschoss  1(X). 
Mecbernich  203. 
Meckenheim  203. 
Meckesheim  275. 
Hedard  294. 
Meerfeld  211. 
Mehlem  69.  79. 
Mehren  209. 


Mehrhoog  18. 
Hehring  202. 
Heiderich  19. 
Meisenheim  171. 
Meissenheim  876. 
Melibocus,  the  255. 
Helkereikopf,  the  39i 
Menchhofen  316. 
Hennelstein,  the  334 
Mensberg,  castle  19J. 
Henzenberg,  the  82. 
Henzenschwand    429. 
Menzenschwander  Htttte 

417. 
Mercuriuflberg,  the  373. 
Merenberg  220. 
Merl  199. 
Merode  14. 
Merten,  monast.  66. 
Hertesheim  287. 
Mertert  189. 
Herxheim  824. 
Merzhausen  383. 
Merzig  180. 
Herzweiler  314. 
Mesenich  194. 
Mettenheim  280. 
HetUach  180. 
Hetz  174. 
Metzeral  847. 
Michaelscapelle    (near 

Durlach)  352. 
—  (near  Zabem)  316. 
Michaels-Lei  200. 
Michelsberg  203. 
Michelstadt  263. 
Miehlen  115. 
Miellen  216. 
Mietesheim  314. 
Milspe  66. 
Miltenberg  264. 
Minderberg,  the  73. 
Mingolsheim  362. 
Minheim  201. 
Mittelbergheim  334. 
Mittelheim  133.  141. 
Mittelthal  394. 
Mittelzell  435. 
Mittershansen  261. 
Molkencur.  the  271. 
Molsheim  328. 
Mombach  140. 
Mommenheim  315. 
Moncel  318 
Monchsberg,  the  345. 
Monchweiler  291. 
Mondorf  68. 
Blonreal  207. 
Monrepos  77. 
Monsheim  286. 
Montabaur  219. 
Montabec,  the  346. 
Montclair  181. 


Montfort,  chftteau  169. 
Montigny-la-Grange  178b 
Montjoie  13. 
Montois-la-Montagne  178. 
Montreux-Vieux  326. 
Montroyal  199. 
Montzen  13. 
Monvanx  177. 
Monzel  201. 
Monz6lfeld.201. 
Monzingen  171. 
Moosbrann7361. 
Moosch  350. 
Moosthurm  398.  400. 
Morel  330. 
Moresnet  13. 
Morfelden  250. 
Morgenbach-Thal  126. 
M6rlenbach:261. 
Mors  61. 
Morsbronn  292. 
Morschheim  286. 
Mortnau,  the  376. 
Mosbach(Odenwald)  275. 

—  (Biebrich)  135.  142. 
Moscou  178. 
Moselkem  192. 
Moselle,  the  78. 190.  etc. 
Moselweis  191. 
Mosenberg.  the  211. 
Mothem  293. 
Moulins-les-Metz  177. 
Mouse,  the,  ruin  119. 
Mouse  Tower  128. 
Moyland,  ch&t.  69. 
Muchenland  418.  419. 
Miiden  193. 
Muggenbrunn  413. 
Muggensturm  361. 
Miihlbach  346. 
Miihlburg  355.  361. 
Muhlhausen  406. 
Miihlheim  (Moselle)  201. 
Muhlhofen  77.  290. 
MOlben  263. 
Miilhausen  324. 
Mulheim  am   Bhein  25. 

an  der  Ruhr  62. 
Miillenbach  (Baden)  372- 

—  (near  Mayen)  208. 
Miillenbild  372. 
MJillheim  385. 
Miimling  263. 
Mummelsee,  the  390. 
Miinchen-GIadbach  60. 
Miinchweier  294.  376. 
Munchweiler  170.  300. 
Mundolsheim  315. 
Miingsten  63. 
Munsbach  189. 
Mun8ter(Reichenau)  435. 

—  (Alsace)  346. 

—  (Taunus)  a46[p 


INDEX. 


449 


M&nster  am  Stein  168.170. 
Miiiutereifel  208. 
Miinster-M&ifeld  192. 


Muii8terthal(Vo8gM)8tt.  "Neudorf  112.  142.  375. 


—  (Black  Forest)  425. 
Himsteruckerle  848. 
Munter  Ley  205. 
Miinz,  the  800. 
Miinzenberg,  min  67. 
Harbach  348. 

Murg  432. 
— ,  the  962.  392. 
Miirlenbach  206. 
Miisch  101. 
Huflsbach  288. 
Hiistert  201. 
M utterslehen  430. 
Mutterstadt  288. 
Mutzig  328. 
Mutzigfela  331. 

Nackenheim  279. 
Kahe,  the  128.  165.  168. 
Kambom  173. 
Namedy  74. 
Nancy  179.  318. 
Napoleonsinsel  325. 
Karion-l&'els  831. 
Nassau  216. 
— ,  castle  of  217. 
Nastatten  115.  121. 
Natzweiler  330. 
Nauheim  (Taunus)  67. 

—  (near  Darmstadt)  251. 
Nebing  818. 
Keckarau  219. 
Keckarbischofshelm  275. 
Neckarelz  276. 
Neckargemiind  278. 
Neckargerach  275. 
Keckarhansen  274. 
Neckarsteinach  273. 
Neef  195. 

Neepsen-Neuwerk  60. 
Neerwlndcn  2. 
Nehren  194. 
Neidenfels,  ruin  293. 
Neidenstein  275. 
Neitersen  219. 
Nellenkopf  112. 
Kennig  189. 
Nerobepg,  the  152. 
Nerothal  152. 
Nerother  Kopf  205.  208. 
Xessellache,  the  414. 
Kessonvaux  3. 

Nette,  the  78   102.  207. 
Kettersheim  203. 
Keublankenheim  204. 
Neu-Breisach  385. 
Nenbrtlcke  172. 
Neubarg  2«8. 
— ,  abbey  278. 


K^nbnrg,  the  (Neckarelz) 

275. 
Nendingen  406. 


Xea-Eberstein  392. 
Neuenahr  98. 
Neuenburg  825. 
Nenenbiirg  353. 
Neuendorf  78. 
Neuenfels  420. 
Neuenhain  248. 
Neuenheim  272. 
Nenenhdwen  403. 
Neuenweg  424.  426. 
Neuhausel  112. 
Neuhausen  433. 
Nenhemsbach  286.  170. 
Neohof  414.  425. 
Neu-Katzenelnbogen  120. 
Neulussheim  279. 
Neumagen  201. 
Neomiihl  (Alsace)  820. 
Neomiihle,  the  211. 
Neun-Aussichten  256. 
Neunkirch  433. 
Neunkirchen  (Nahe  Val- 
ley) 173.  295. 

—  (Bifel)  205. 

—  (Heller  Valley)  66. 

—  (Odenvald)  259. 
Neunkircher  H.6he  269. 
Neuntenstein  335. 
Neu-Saarwerden  818. 
Nen-Scheuem  818. 
Neuss  56.  61. 
Neustadt  an  der  Haardt 

28& 

—  an  der  Miimling  263. 

—  (Black  Forest)  416. 
Neuweier  370.  374. 
Neuweiler  316. 
Neu-Weilnau  245.  249. 
Neuwied  76.  83. 
Neu-Windeck  375. 
Neuwolfstein  294. 
Nicolaus-Lei  200. 
Nideck  328.  381. 
Nideggen  15. 
Nieder-Adenau  102. 
Niederberg  112. 
Niederbettingen  204. 
Niederbiber  76. 
Niederbrechen  249. 
Nieder-Breisig  74.  83. 
Niederbronn  314. 
Niederbruck  351. 
Niederburg,  ttie  (Oobern) 

■  (Budesheim)  131. 

•  (Oberwesel)  120. 
Nieder-Dollendorf  81.  69. 
Nieder-Dresselndorf  66. 
Niederehe  204. 


Bakdekkb's  Rhine.  15th  Edit. 


Niederemmel  201. 
Nieder-Enist  194. 
Niederfell  191. 
Niederflorsheim  286. 
Nieder-Hammerstein  74. 
Nieder-Harmenbach  398. 
Nieder-Haslach  380. 
Niederhausen  170. 
Nieder-Heimbach  126. 
Nieder-Hochstadt  245. 
Niederhorbach  291. 
Niederhovels  66. 
Nieder-Ingelheim  140. 
Nieder-Eainsbach  262. 
Nieder-Kestert  119. 
Niederlahnstein  118. 140. 
Niederlauterbach  292. 
Niederlinxweiler  178. 
Nieder-Liitzingen  104. 
NiedeT-Manderscheid210. 
Niedermendig  108. 
Niedermohr  294. 
Nieder-Horschweier  341. 
Niedermiihle  480.  431. 
Niedemhansen  249. 
Nieder-Olm  285. 
Nieder-Otrott  338. 
Niederrad  239. 
Nieder-Ramstadt  262. 
Nieder-Saolheim  285. 
Nieder-Schopfheim  376. 
Nieder-Schworstadt  431. 
Niederselters  249. 
Niederspay  116.  141. 
Niederwald,  the  136. 
Niederwalluf  136.  142. 
Niederwasser  402. 
Niederweiler  420. 
Niederwerth  78.  84. 
Niederwinden  412. 
Nieder-Wollstadt  68. 
Nieder-Zissen  104. 
Nierstein  279. 
Nienkerk  57. 
Nievem  212. 
Nimburg  377. 
Nippenburg  406. 
Nippes  66. 
Nittel  189. 
Kitting  818. 
Nohen  172. 
Nohfelden  173. 
Nolsserille  179. 
Noil,  the  331. 
Nollen,  the  289. 
NoUich  125. 
Nohnenstrombergfthe  95. 
Nonnenwerth  69.  79.  88. 
Nonnweiler  178. 
Nonrod  269. 
Nord-Canal,  the  62. 
Nordrach  898.        i 
Norf56.  d^ 

29- 


3 


450 


INDEX. 


Kothberg  14. 
Kothgottes  132. 
NothhauBAB  77. 
Nothschrei,  Am  418. 419 
Notre   Dame   des    Trois 
.     Epia  845. 
NouUly  179. 
Nov^ant  177.  179. 
NoTiaad  198. 
Karburg,  the  102.  204. 
Nosabach  404. 
Kuasloeh  862. 
Nymwegen  16.  68. 

Ober-Absteinach  261. 
.  Oberacbern  396. 

Ober-Aha  418. 

Oberbeuem  370. 

Oberbiber  77. 

OberboUen  424.  426. 

Oberbrechen  249. 

Oberbnick  361. 
.  Oberburg,  tower  131. 

Qbercaasel  (near  Diiasel- 
dor0  58. 

—  (near  Bonn)  89.  81 
Ober-Dollendorf  8L 
Ober-Ehnheim  832. 

—  Bmmel  181. 

—  Ern«t  194. 
Oberfell  192. 
Oberbambach  288. 
Oberhunmer  818. 
Ober-Uammerstein  74.88. 

—  Harmersbach  896. 
Oberhaslach  330. 
Oberhausen  (near  Dais- 
burg)  19. 

—  (near  Bergsabem)  291 
Oberhof  816. 
Oberhomburg  174. 
Ober-Ingelheim  140. 
OberkaU  212. 
Oberkatzensteig  409. 
Oberkirch  896.  397. 
Ober-Krfihlingen  101. 
Oberlahnstein  114.  141. 
Oberlauchringen  433. 
Oberlenzkirch  419. 
Ober-Lutzingen  104. 
Ober-Manbach  15. 
Obermendig  105. 
Obermodem  8l5. 
Obemai  332. 
Obemeisen  146. 
Obernhof  217. 
Ober-Otrott  388. 
Ober-Plattig  389. 
Ober-Prechthal  412. 
Ober-Ramstadt  262. 
Oberried  413. 

Obers chaff bausen  377. 
Ober-Schlettenbach  301. 


Ober-Simonswald  411. 
Oberspay  116.  141. 
Oberstein  172. 
Ober-Steinbach  802. 
Obersnlz  846. 
Ober-Sulzbach  316. 
Oberthal  S8D.  374.  894. 
Obertsroth  392. 
Obertullingen  427. 
Oberurael  241. 
Ober-Waekenbaeh  831. 
Oberweiler  420. 
Oberwrerth  112. 
Oberwesel  122.  139. 
Oberwinden  412. 
Oberwinter  71.  79.  83. 
Oberwolfach  399.  406. 
OberzeU  486. 
Ober-Zissen  104. 
Oberzwieselberg  407. 
Obrigheim  276. 
Ochsenkopf,  Hohe  890. 
Ochsenstein  319. 
Ockenfels  78. 
Odenbach  294. 
Odendorf  208. 
Odenwald,  the  268. 
Oderen  351. 

Odilienberg,  the  883. 834. 
Oedsbach  m. 
Oedt  61. 
Oeflingen  428. 
Oelberg,  the  Great  95. 
Oermingen  316. 
Oestrich  138.  141. 
Oetringen  189. 
Offenbach  am  Glan  294. 

Offenburg  375. 

Offenthaler  Hof  121. 

Offstein  280.  287. 

Ofteringen  433. 

Oggersheim  281. 

Ohligfl  63. 

Ohligsberg,  the  201. 

Olbriick,  castle  104. 

Olef  203. 

Oos  362.  374. 

Opladen  62. 

Oppan  279. 

Oppenau  887. 

Oppenheim  280. 

Oppum  56.  62. 

Oranienstein  218. 

Orbey  342- 

Orensberg  299. 

Orschweier  376. 

Orsoy  19. 

Ortenau,  the  376. 


Osterspay  116.  141. 
Ostheim  321. 
Osthofen  280. 
Ottenheim  376. 
Ottenhofen  396. 
Otterberg  294. 
Ottersweier  374. 
Otterswciler  827. 
Ottmarsheim  826. 
OttweUer  178.  316. 
Otzberg  263. 
Otzenhaasen  173. 
Ourthe,  the  8. 

Pagny  179. 
Palenberg  60. 
Pairia,  abbey  343. 
PaUien  188.  198. 
Palzem  189. 
Papenkaul,  the  206. 
Patersberg  121. 
Pechelbronn  292. 
Pelage,  the  336. 
Pelagiua-Plati  244. 
Pellenz  207. 
Pelm  204.  208. 
Peltre  174.  179. 
Pepinster  8. 
Perl  189. 
Perlkopf  104. 
Peternit  348. 
Peters-An  186. 
Petersberg,  the  (Seven 

Mts.)  96. 
—  (Moselle)  196. 

-  (nearGan-Odernheim) 

280. 
Peterspay  116. 
PetersUial  899. 
Peterzell  404. 
Petite-Croix  325. 
Pfaffendorf  112. 
Pfahlgraben,  the  74. 215. 

244. 
Pfalz',  the  123. 
Pfalzburg  318. 
Pfalidorf  58. 
Pfalzel  198.  202.  207. 
Pfalzgrafenstein  128. 
Pfeddersheim  286. 
Pfifflieheim  286. 
Pfirt  826. 
Pfohren  405. 
Pforzheim  353. 
Pfangstadt  255. 
Philippsbarg(  Alsace)  316. 
|—  (Baden)  352. 
Philippsheim  207. 


Ortenberg  (Black  Forest)  Philippsrahe  262. 


400. 

— ,  Schloss  333. 
Osterath  66. 
Osterbach  413. 


Philippstein  220. 
Pirmasenz  300. 
Pisport  201.     , 
Plaidt  102.  jle 


INDEX. 


451 


Plankstftdt  275. 
Platte,  the  153.  144. 
Flatten  198. 
PlattenhQf  41Q. 
Plattig,  tlie  389. 
Plittersdorf  69. 
Point  du  Jour  1T7. 
PoUch  202. 
Poltepsdorf  194. 
Ponunern  193'. 
Poppelfldorf  89. 
Popz  68. 
Posthalde  414. 
Poutay  330. 
Poutroye,  La  342. 
Praest  18. 
Prag  438. 

Prechthal,  the  412. 
Prensaisch-Uedem  58. 
Prinzenkopf  195.  130. 
Priim  205. 
Puberg  316. 
Paderbach  219. 
Pulvermaar,  the  209. 
Punderich  197.  199. 
Patafeld  101. 

auadrath  16. 
Queich,  the  290.  299. 
Quiddelbach  102.    ' 
Quint,  the  198.  202. 
Quirscheid  173. 

Babenlei,  the  81. 
BachUg.200. 
Radolfzell  435. 
Raeren  13. 
Bamberg  289. 
Ramersdorf  69. 
Ramsohied  125. 
Ramstein  207.  294.  333. 

408. 
Randeck,  ruin  107. 
Ransbach  84.  299. 
Rappenfels  402. 
Rappoltsweiler  338.  321. 
Rasselstein  76. 
Raatatt  361. 
Ratb^mhausen  333. 
Ri"^  ^samhausen-Stein 

629.  335. 
ilaubach  219. 
Rauentha]  142. 
Raumiinzach  393. 
Raunheim  240. 
Rauschermiihle,  the  102. 
Ravenna-Thai,  the  414. 
Rebhaus  383* 
Reden  173. 
Rees  18. 

Rehberg,  the  299. 
Rehweiler  294. 
Reichartshaiuen  133. 


Reichelsheim  262. 
Reichenau,  island  435. 
Reichenbach  (Odenwald) 
260. 
(Hurgthal)  394. 

—  (Schutterthal)  376.400, 

—  (near  Rippoldsan)  407. 
Reichenberg  (Rhine)  121. 

—  (Odenwald)  262. 
Reichenstein  (Neckar) 

"  (Rhine)  126.  ! 

—  (Roer  Valley)  13.        I 
Reichenthal  392. 
Reichenweier  340. 
Reichersberg  190. 
Reichshofen  814. 
Reichswald  58  59. 
Reifenberg,  ruin  83. 
Reifferscheid,  ruin  203< 
Reil  197.  199. 
Reilkirch  199. 
Reimerzhofen  1(X). 
Reinerzau  408. 
Reinhardslnst  197. 
Reinhartahausen  134. 
Reinheim  262. 
Reinkopf  351. 
Reinsport  201. 
Reisberg,  the  343. 
Reiselflngen  416. 
Reisenbach  263. 
Reiflsen  261. 
Remagen  71.  79. 
Remich  189. 

Remilly  174.  318. 
Remomont  342. 
Remschttid  65. 
Remstecken  110. 
Renchen  375. 
Rengen  208. 
Rengsdnrf  77. 
Reach  207. 
Reuschenberg  25. 
Rezonville  178. 
Rheinau  279. 

,  island  134. 
— ,  hydrop.  77. 
Rheinbach  OOQ. 
Rheinberg  62. 
RheinboUen  165. 
Rheinbreitbach  71.  83. 
Rheinbrohl  74.  83. 
Rheindiebach  125. 
Rheineck  74.  83. 
Rheinfelden  431. 
Rheinfels  119. 
Rheingau.  the  131. 
Rheingonheim  28S. 
Rheingrafenstein  168. 
Rheinhansen  62. 
Rheinaheim  352. 
Rheinstein  126. 


Rheinweiler  386. 
Rbeinzabem  298. 
Rhens  115.  139. 
Rheydt  60. 
Rhine,  Falls  of  the  434 

—  Hame  Canal  317. 
Rhodt  290. 
Rhondorf  83. 
Ribeauyill^  339. 
Richterich  60. 
Riokelshau8en  435 
Riedichen  429. 
Rieding  317. 
Rieddschingen  433. 
Riedselz  0192. 
Riegel  376. 
Riehen  427. 
Riesenmiihle  125. 
Rieaensaule,  the  258. 
Rietburg,  the  290. 
Rilchingen  315. 
Rimbach  (Alsace)  351. 

—  (Hesae)  261. 
Rimburg  60. 
Rimmerich,  the  205. 
Ringelbach  397. 
Ringf>heim  376. 
Rinken,  the  417.  418. 
Rinnthal  300. 

Riol  202. 

Rippburg,  the  290. 
Rippoldsau  407. 
Rissbach  200. 
Riaawaaen  388. 
Rittershausen  63. 
Rittersturz,  the  110. 
Rixheim  326. 
Rixingen  818. 
Rochenbach  416. 
Rochnsberg  129. 
Rochuscapelle,  the  129. 
Rockenhausen  170. 
Rodalben  (Lorraine)  300. 

—  (Palatinate)  318. 
Rodeck  395. 
Rodelheck,  the  197. 
R5delheim  241.  245. 
Rodenstein,  ruin  2^ 
Roderberg  70. 

Roer,  the  13.  14.  15.  60. 
Roetgen  13. 
Rohmatt  426. 
Rohnatadt  220. 
Rohrbach  290.  315. 
Rohrhardtsberg  404. 
Roisdorf  80. 
Roland  Arch  70. 
Rolandseck  69.  79. 
Rolandswerth  69. 
Romansweiler  327. 
Romerkessel,  the  197. 
Romersberg,  the  210. 
Rommersdorf  69.  96. 

29*      ^ 


452 


INDEX. 


Bommersdorf,  abbey  83. 
Roncourt  178. 
Bonheid0  18. 
Bonadorf  60. 
Boodt  189. 
Bdtchwoog  293. 
Bosenau,  Mt.  95. 
Bosenbarg,  the  90. 
Boaengarten  28&. 
Boaenhdhe  264.  26^ 
Bosentt&aL  conv.  IttS. 
Bosheim  332. 
Bdarath  26. 

BoasbUhl,  the  39A.  896. 
Boaael,  the  188. 
Boaaert,  the  249. 
Boaakopf,  the  383. 
Boaaatein,  the  122. 
Both8&2. 
Bothaa  829. 
Bothe  Erde  18.  14. 
Bothenbaoh  363. 
Bdthenbaoh  403. 
Bothenbachkopf  847. 861 
Bothenfela  (BlackForeat) 

391. 
— ,  the  (Nahe)  169. 
BothenkreuB  419. 
Boihe  Schliffkopf  896. 
Bothhaus  420.  m. 
Bothlach  836. 
Boihweil  877. 
Bdtteln,  Schloaa  427. 
Botterdam  16. 
BdttlerweUer  427. 
Boierleallea  177. 
Budenberg  415. 
Biideaheim  ISO.  141. 
Badeabeiner  Berg  127 
Bufach  388. 
Bufenhiitte  416. 
Bohrberg  16. 
Bohrort  19. 
Buhatein,  the  391. 
Biilzheim  298. 
Bumbach  301* 
Bumbach-Thal,  the  837. 
Biimmingen  423. 
Bumpenheim  262. 
Biingadorf  69. 
Bunkel  220. 
Boppertaberg  180.  408. 
Buppertahain  246. 
Btippur  8:38. 
Bu8a829. 
Bilsaelaheim  240. 
Buwer  202. 

Saalburg,  the  244.  246. 

Saalea  830. 

Saalhof  78. 

Saar,  the  173.  180.  316. 

Saar-Alben  816.  318. 


Saaraltdorf  818. 
Saari>niekeB  178. 
Saarburg  (Alaaee)  817. 

—  (PraaaU)  181. 
Saargemftnd  816.  800. 
Saarlouia  180. 
Saar-UaioB  818. 
Saanrerden  818. 
Sachaenhaaaen  224.  236. 
Sackingen  481. 
SaMndobel  b84.  418. 
Saffeabarg,  the  100. 
Saig  414. 

St.  Ail  178. 

—  Amarin  860. 

—  Anna  347. 

—  Arnnal  174. 

—  Avoid  174. 

—  Blaiae  880. 

—  Blaaien  429. 

—  Ghriachona  427. 
Gtonovefa,  ohureh  102. 

—  Oeorgen  404.  886. 

—  Qilgen  346. 

—  Ooar  119.  189.  141. 

—  aoarahaoaen  120.  141. 

—  Hubert  177. 

—  Ilgen  862. 

—  Ingbert  800. 

—  Johaan  (Saarbrucken) 
178. 

(near  Zabern)818. 

(near  Kayen)  207. 

—  Kreuts  387. 
Ludwlg  826.  886. 

—  Margen  418. 

—  Martin  290. 

—  Matthevr  188. 

—  Morits  836. 

—  Nabor  383. 
St  OttUien  383. 

—  Peter  413. 

—  Philip  337. 

—  Pilt  fel. 

—  Prirat  178. 
Sebaatian  77. 

—  Thomaa,  lun.  aaylum 
78. 

,  monaat.  206. 

—  Tnidpert  426. 

—  Vith  13.  206. 

—  Vitua,  Grotto  of  319. 

—  Wendel  173. 

—  Wilhelmer  fittte  418. 

—  Wilhelmathal  418. 
Ste.  Croix-aax-Mine8387, 

—  Marie-aax*Chdne8l78. 

aox-Minea  887. 

Salm.  caatle  829. 
-,  the  198.  202.  212. 
Salmbaeh  292. 
Salmrohr  198. 
Salzig  118. 


Salzkqpf,  the  131. 
Sand  m. 

Sandau,  ialand  134. 
Sandboden  480. 
Sarmaheim  166. 
Samstall  801. 
Sasbach  376.  377. 
Saabachwalden  376. 
Satzvey  208. 
Sanerburg,  caatle  196. 
Saueraberg.  the  869. 
Saulxuref  830. 
Saurenberg,  the  93. 
Sauaenbnrg  423. 
Saveme  816. 
Sayn  83. 

Schaafbere,  the  372. 
Schaberg  68. 
Scbadeck,  the  273. 
Schaerbeek  2. 
Schaferhof  320. 
Schaferplacken  169. 
SchaferplaU  319. 
Schaflfhanaen  484. 
Schaidt  291. 
Schalkenmehrer  Maar 

209 
Schaiierberg,  the  94.  96. 
Schallatadt  386. 
Schameck  406. 
Scbapbach  406. 
SchanzeL  fhe  2^. 
Scharfenberg,  ruin  300. 
Scharfeneck,  ruin  290. 
Scharfenatein  (Black 

Foreat)  426. 
—  (Naaaau)  185. 
Scharlachkopf.  the  129. 
Scharrachbergneim  828. 
Scharteberg.  the  206. 
Sehanhof  181. 
Schauenburg  268.  897. 
Schauerkopf  897. 
Schan-tna-Land  884. 
Schaomberg  178. 
Schaumburg  218. 
Scheffelaee  432. 
Scheibenhard  292. 
Scheid  218. 
Schellkopf  104. 
Schenkenzell  408. 
Scherhohl  291.  802. 
Scherweiler  338. 
Scheuem  392. 
Schierstein  136.  142. 
Schifferatadt  288.  295. 
Sehiflweiler  178. 
Schiltach  407. 
SchUteck  407. 
Schimmelberg  261. 
Sehindhardt  §01. 
Schirmeck  829. 
Schladem  66.    |^ 


INDEX. 


453 


Schlaferskopf,  the  143. 
Schlangenbad  142. 
Schlebusch  63. 
ScUecbtnau  426. 
Schleich  202. 
Schleiden  206. 
Sohleiftnuhle  173. 
Scbleithal  292. 
Schleitheim  488. 
Schlenderhahn  15. 
Schlettstadt  821. 
SchUengen  386. 
Schlierbach  278. 
Schlossbere,   the   (Frei* 
barg)  8^. 

—  (Kreuznach)  187. 

—  (Schirmeck)  829. 

—  (Wildenstein)  351. 
Schlucbsee  419. 
Schlucht,  the  846. 
Scbliicht-Thal,  the  483. 
SchlnUenbacb  361. 
Schmalbach  398. 
Schmalenstein  353. 
Schmelze  481. 
Schmelzer-Thal  96. 
Schmidtheim  203. 
Schmitten  249. 
Schneeberg,  the  328  331. 
Schneebnrg  8'^8.  413. 
Schneidhain  246. 
Schnellerts.  ruin  262. 
Schnierlach  342. 
Schoden  181. 
Schollenbach  263. 
Schomberg  407. 
Schonach  404. 
Schdnaa  (Odenwald)  274. 

—  (Palatinate)  301. 
Schonaa(Wie8enthaI)426. 
— ,  chat.  432. 
Schonberg  (Hesse)  260. 

—  (Black  Forest)  400. 

—  (Freiburg)  888. 
Schonburg,  ruin  122. 
SchSnecken  205. 
Schonenbach  406. 
SchSnenberg  424. 
Schonenbudien  424. 
Schonengrund  898. 
Schdnmattenwae  261. 
Schonmiinzach  3^. 
Schdnstein,  ch&teau  66. 
Schonthal  12.  289. 
Schonwald  409. 
Schopfheim  426. 
Schramberg  407. 
Schrannenbach  360. 
Schriesheim  258. 
Schriesbelmerhof  361. 
Schubergfelsen  423. 
Schuld  101. 
Schtttter-TUl  376.  401. 


Schwabenschanze  397. 
Schwabweiler  292. 
Schwalbach  148. 
Schwanenwasen  389. 
Schwanheim  240.  301. 
Schwarzach  374. 
Schwarze  430. 
Schwarzenacker  295. 
Schwarzenberg  393.  411. 
Schwarzenbom  212. 
Schwarzenburg,  ruin  345. 
Schwarzenkopf,  the  391. 
Schwarze  See,  the  348. 
Schwarzhalde,  the  420. 
Schwarz-Bheindorf  68. 
Schwarzsee  432. 
Schwarzwald  386. 
Schwedenschanze  898. 
Schweich  198.  202. 
Schweighausen  814. 
Schweigmatt  426. 
Schweighof  424. 
Schweizerthal  (St.  Goar) 
120. 

—  (near  Ems)  216. 
Schwelm  65. 
Schweppenburg,  the  103, 
Schwetzingen  275. 
Sechtem  80. 

Seebach  407. 
-,  the  891.  407. 
Seebrugg  420. 
Seebuck,  the  417. 
Seeheim  255. 
Seekopf  390. 
Seelach,  the  370. 
Seelbach  376. 
Seelenborn  347. 
Segendorf  77. 
Sehl  194. 
Sehringen  433. 
Selfen  319. 
Seligenstadt  263. 
Sellhof  82. 
Selters  219. 
Selz  298. 

Sembach  170.  286. 
Senhals  194. 
Senheim  194. 
Sennheim  849. 
Sentheim  351. 
Serrig  181. 
Servigny  179. 
Sesenheim  !!^. 
Seulberg  245. 
Seven  Mountains,  the  91. 

—  Virgins,  the  132. 
Sewen  851. 
Siebeldingen  299. 
Siebenbom  196. 
Siebengebirge  91. 
Siedelsbrunn  261. 
Siedlgkopf  400. . 


Siegburg  66. 
Siegen  66. 

Siegfried sbrunnen  393. 
Slerck  189. 
Sierentz  326. 
Siershahn  84.  219. 
Sigolsheim  341. 
Silz  291. 
Simmem  165. 
Simonswald  411. 
Singen  435.  406. 
Sinn  66. 
Sinzheim  374. 
Sinzig  79. 
Sirnitz  424. 
Sitfard  60. 
Sobernheim  171. 
Soden  248. 
Sohlberg,  the  396. 
Solingen  63. 
Sollig,  the  196. 
Sollingen  353. 
Sommerau  404. 
Sondemheim  298. 
Sonnborn  63. 
Sonneck  417. 
Sonnenberg  154. 

—  (Nahe)  172. 
Sooneck  126. 
Sophienhof  94. 
Sophienruhe  (near 

Baden)  389. 

—  (Badenweiler)  422. 
Sourbrodt  13. 

Spa  3. 

Sparsbrod  821 
Speicher  307. 
Speierskopf  158. 
Spesburg  335. 
Speyer  2i95. 
Spicheren  174. 
Spicherer  Berg  174. 
Spiesshom  418. 
Spitzenstein  120. 
Sponeck  877. 
Sponheim  169. 
Sporen-Insel  814, 
Sprendlingen  285. 
Springirsbach  197. 
Stadtkyll  204. 
Stahlberg,  castle  134. 
Stahleck,  castle  135. 
Stambach  317. 
Stammheim  25. 
Starkenburg,  the  (Hes< 

se)  267. 

.  (Moselle)  199. 
Staudemheim  171. 
Staufen(Milnsterthal)425. 

885. 
.— ,  the  (near  Thann)  349. 
— ,  the  QroiBe  372. 
— ,  the  Klelne  37^.^ 


454 


INDEX. 


Staufenberg  (Badeu)  872. 
— ,  casUe  S75. 
Staafenburg,  the  435. 
Stavelot  13. 
Stecklewaldkopf  403. 
Steeg  124. 
Steele  68. 
Steffelfberg  291. 
Stegen  413. 
Steig  414. 

Steigerskopf,  the  391. 
Stein,  Burg  (Nassau)  217. 

—  (near  Sayn)  83. 
Steinach  401. 
Steinbach  (Odenwald) 

263. 

—  (near  Baden)  374. 
Steinbeck  63. 
Steinberg,  the  134. 
Steinborn  205. 
Steinbnrg  316. 
Steinebere  208. 
Steinen  ^. 
Steinfel^  291. 

— ,  abbey  203. 
Steingriin  401.  412. 
Steinig  861. 
Steinthal  330. 
Steinthalskopf  99. 
Steinwenden  294. 
Stenzelberg,  the  95. 
Stephanfeld  316. 
Sterkrade  19. 
Stern-See,  the  350. 
Sterrenberg  118. 
Stetten  427. 
Stickelmiihle,  the  154. 
Stieringen  174. 
Stockberg  423. 
Stockleberg  419. 
Stockhausen  220. 
Stockatadt  250. 
Stolberg  14. 
Stolzeneck  274. 
Stolzenfels  113. 
Stoppelberg  221. 
Stossweier  846. 
Stotzheim  333. 
Strahlenburg,  the  258. 
Strassburg  302. 
Strasa-Ebersbach  66. 
Strohn  210. 
Stromberg  165. 
Strotzbusch  197. 
Struthof  329. 
Stuben,  monast.  195. 
Stiihle  423. 
Stiihlingen  433. 
Styrum  62. 
Suchteln  61. 
Suggenthal  411. 
Sulz  unterm  Walde  292. 
Sulzbach  (Alsace;  345. 


Solzbach  (Baden)  897. 

—  (near  Saarbriieken) 
173. 

—  (on  the  Kahe)  172. 

—  (near  Soden)  247. 
Sulzbad  328. 
Sulzburg  385. 

Sulzer  Belchen,  the  849. 
Sulzern  846. 
Sulzmatt  828. 
Snndgan,  the  824.  325. 
Snndhofen  385. 
Siirth  68. 

Taben  181. 
Tannchel,  the  388. 
Tanneckfela  344. 
Tannenberg  267. 
Tannenfela  394. 
Tannenkirch  388. 
Tannenstein  836. 
Tanbenschlagfelsen  316. 
Taunus,  the  240. 
Tempelhof,  the  (Nieder- 
breisig)  74. 

—  (Moselle)  191. 
Teterehen  174.  190. 
Tetingen  174. 
Teufelsberg,  the  290. 
Teufelflkadrich  126. 
Teafelskanzcl  372.  400. 
Teafelakiiche  408. 
Teufelsleiter  293. 
Teufelsloch  101. 
Teufelsmiihle  388.  892. 
Teufelsstein,  the  288. 
Thalhans  275. 
Thalmuhle  406. 
Thann  349.   . 
Thanner  Hiibel  350. 
Thannweiler  336. 
Thayingen  435. 
Theisbergstegen  294. 
Thennenbronn  408. 
Theodorshalle  168. 
Thiengen  433. 
Thionville  190.. 
Tholey  173. 

Thorn,  chat.  189. 
Thornich  202. 
Thron  201. 
Thurant,  ruin  192. 
Thurmberg,  the  358. 
Thurnberg,  ruin  119. 
Thurner,  the  413. 
Tiefenbach  316. 
Tiefenbaeh-Thal,  the  201 
Tiefenhausern  430. 
Tiefenstein  431. 
Tiefenthal  142. 
Tirlemont  2. 
Titisee,  the  416. 
Todtenkopf  377. 


Todtmooa  428. 
TodtmoosAn  423. 
Todtnau  425. 
Todtnauberg  426. 
Todtnauer  Hiitte  418. 
Tomberg,  ruin  208. 
Tonnerre,  Mont  286. 
Tonnisstein,  hatha  103. 
Traben  199. 
Traisa  262. 
Trarbach  199. 
Trechtingshausen  126. 

139. 
Treis  193. 
Treitelskopf  290. 
Trhvea  182. 
Triberg  402. 
Triefenthal  289. 
Triembach  336. 
Trier  182. 
Trifelfl  299. 
Trimbom  12. 
Trips,  ch&teau  60. 
Trittenhelm  201. 
Trittscheid  209. 
Troiadorf  65. 
Trois  Epia  346. 
Tromm,  the  261. 
Trompet  62. 
Tronville  178. 
Trooz,  Le  3. 
Truttenhausen  388. 
Trutzeltz  198. 
Tschiflflick  800. 
Tullinger  Hohe  427. 
Tuni-Berg,  the  384. 
Tiirkheim  344. 
Tiirkismiihle  173. 

Xn)8Udt  352. 
Ueckingen  190. 
Uedem  58.         • 
Uedersdorf  210. 
Uehlingen  433. 
Uerdingen  62. 
Uerafeld  208. 
Uerzig  200.  198. 
Uesbach,  the  196. 
Uffhauaen  386. 
Ulmen  203. 
Ulmene^  Haar  208. 
Unadingen  416. 
Ungersberg  333.  335. 
Ungersheim  324. 
Unkel  71.  88. 
Unter-Absteinach  261. 
Unter-Aha  418. 
Unter-Barmen  68. 
Unter-Barville  318. 
Untereggingen  433. 
Untereaehbaeh  26. 
Unter-Grombach  352. 
jQnterhallAU  433. 


INDEZ. 


455 


Unter-H&rmersbach  398. 
Vnterkiniaeh  404. 
Unterlenskirch  419. 
Unter-Maubach  15. 
Uniermulten  424. 
rnter-Preehihal  412. 
Unter-Baidelbach  260. 
Untersee,  the  435. 
Unter-Simonswald  411. 
Unteriimatt  390. 
IJnterwasserthal,  the  395. 
Urbach  65.  330.  342. 
Urbar  112.  78.  120. 
Urbeis  342. 
Urbia  350. 
Urft  203. 
rrmatt  329. 
Urmersbach  206. 
Urmitz  77. 
Urnagold  393. 
Urstein  331. 
Usingen  245. 
Utrecht  17. 
Utsch  206. 
Utzenfeld  426. 
Utzenth  208. 

Val-de-Vill^  836. 
Vallendar  84.  77. 
Vallorysthal  318. 
Valwig  194. 
Yaudrefange  180. 
Veenendaal  17. 
Veitakopf,  the  104. 
Veldenz  201. 
Vellen  101. 
Veluwe,  the  17. 
Vendenheim  293.  815. 
Venlo  16.  61. 
Verdun  177. 
Vern^viUe  178. 
Vernich  202. 
Verviera  3. 
Vetzberg  67. 
Veynau  203. 
Victoriaberg,  the  72. 
Vieille-Montafne  8.  13. 
Viernheim  258. 
Vierseenplatz,  the  117. 
Viersen  61. 
Vilbel  68.  289. 
Villingen  404. 
Villmar  220. 
VionviUe  178. 
Virneberg  71. 
Virneburg  207. 
Vogelbacb  422.  423. 
YogelAkopf  391. 
Vogisheim  422. 
Vohrenbach  406. 
Vohwinkel  63. 
VolkeraweUer  800. 
VaiUingen  180. 


Vollerdingen  316. 
Vollrads  183. 
Volpertshausen  221. 
Vorbrnck  329. 
Vorder-Langenbach  394. 
Vorder-Seebach  395. 
Vorder-Weidenthal  301. 
Vorgebirge,  the  16.   80. 
Vorst  61. 
Vosges,  the  326. 
Voyemont  330. 

Wachenberg  257. 
Wachenheim  (Bheniah 

Hesse)  288. 
—  (Palatinate)  2S6. 
Wacht,  the  429. 
Wachtenburg,  the  288. 
Wadenheim  98. 
Wadgassen  180. 
Wagensteig-Tha],thc418. 
Waghausel  279. 
Wagnersberg,  the  420. 
Wahlen  261. 
Wahlenburg  323. 
Wahlheim  285. 
Wahn  65. 
Waibatadt  275. 
Walbach  346. 
Waldau  410. 
Waldbockelheim  170. 
Waldbroel  66. 
Waldeck,  ruin  192. 
Waldersbach  330. 
Waldesheim  25. 
Waldfriede  171. 
Waldhof  250. 
WaldkaUenbach  274. 
V/aldkirch  411. 
Wald-Leiningen  263. 
Waldmichelbach  261. 
Waldaberg  384. 
Waldaee  (near  Baden) 

373. 

-  (near  Freiburg)  383. 
Waldshut  432. 
Walheim  18. 
Walldorf  250.  852. 
Wallerfangen  180. 
Walleraheim  78. 
Wallertheim  286. 
Wallhauaen  173. 
Walporzheim  99. 
Wambach  143. 
Wangen  327. 
Wangenburg  323. 
Wanzel  336. 
Wansenau  299. 
Warden  15. 
Waremme  2. 
Warenburg,  the  405. 
Warteaberg,  the  310. 
Warth,  the  208. 


Waaen  426. 
Waaenberg,  the  316. 
Wasenburg,  the  815. 
Wasenweiler  384. 
Waagau,  the-  300. 
Washolder  Hof  101. 
Waaigenatein,  the  302. 
Waaperweiler  318. 
Wasaelnheim  327. 
Wasaenach  104. 
Wasserbillig  189. 
WaaaerUeach  189. 
Weberley,  the  210. 
Wecker  189. 
Weeze  67. 
Weg  428. 

Wegelnburg.  the  301. 
Wegacheid  361. 
Wehen  148. 
Wehlen  200. 
Wehr  437.  428. 
Wehra-Thal  428. 
Wehrbuach,  the  206. 
Wehrheim  246. 
Weibera  104. 
Weidenbach  101. 
Weidenthal  298. 
Weier  im  Thai  345. 
Weiher  261. 
Weilbach  (Tannna)  241. 

—  (Odenwald)  263. 
Weilburg  220. 
Weiler  336.  360.  104. 
Weilerawiat  202. 
Weilerthal  336. 
WeilmCmater  220. 
WeUthal  230. 
Weinbiet,  the  289. 
Weinfelder  Kirche  209. 

—  Maar  209. 
Weingarten  352. 
Weinheim  257. 
Weinweg,  the  259. 
Weiaenbaoh  892. 
Weiaenheim  281. 
Weiames  18. 
Weiaa  82. 

— .  the  841. 
Weisaenburg  291. 
Weiaaenfela  169. 
Weiaaenthnrm  77.  78. 
Weiaae  See,  the  343. 
Weiaakirchen  241. 
Weiaatannhdhe  415. 
Weitersburg  84. 
Welteratadt  261. 
Weizen  483. 
Wekmund  833. 
WelgeaheUn  286. 
Welkenhanaen  8. 
Wellen  189. 
Welleaweiler  295. 
Wellmicb  119.  14^.^ 


456 


INDEX. 


Welschbruch  829.  836. 
Welfdilngen  406. 
Wembacb  436. 
Wcndel  174. 
Wendelsheim  285. 
Wendelstedthohe  80. 
Wengelsbach  902. 
Wengerobr  198. 
Weinberg  101. 
Werlaa  mines  119. 
Wermelskircben  68. 
Wernerseck,  ruin  102. 
Werrach  ,438. 
Wersehweiler  296. 
Werth  14. 
Weacl  18. 
Wefteliiig  68. 
Wesserling  860. 
Westerbure  219. 
Westheim  296. 
Westhofen  280.  828. 
Westphalen'sche  Au  134. 
Westrich,  the  293. 
Wetterberg,  the  900. 
Wettsteinhohe  343. 
Wetzlar  290. 
Weyelinghoyen  16. 
Weyersbach  310. 
Weyersheim  299. 
Wichelahof,  the  68.  8( 
Wickrfttb  60. 
Widdig  68. 
Wiebelflbach  262.  263. 
Wiebelskirchen  178. 
Wieden  426. 
Wiedenereck  426. 
Wiedenfelsen  888. 
Wiehre  883.  412. 
Wierschem  192. 
Wies  189. 
Wiesbaden  146. 
Wiesenscheid  204 
Wiesenthal  279. 
-,  the  426.  426. 
Wiesloch  362. 
Wilchingen  433. 
Wildbad  363. 
WUdenburg,  the  198.  263. 
Wildenatein  347.  U67. 
Wildfrauhaus  269. 
Wildgatach-Thal  410. 
Wildschapbach-Thal  399. 
Wildsee,  the  364.  891. 
WUdstein  199. 
Wilferdingen  368. 
Wilgartswiesen  800. 
Wilhelmsbad  283. 
Wilhelmsplati  289. 
Wilhelmstein  60. 
WiUerwald  318. 


Wilmshansen  260. 
Wilseck  306. 
Wiltingen  181. 
Wilwiaheim  316. 
Wimmenaa  316. 
Wincheringen  189. 
Windeck  (Bergstrasse) 
267 

-  (Siegthal)  66. 
Winden  (near  Diiren) 

16. 

-  (Palat.)  291. 
Windhausen  118. 
WindkMf  402. 
Windschlag  376. 
Windstein  302. 
Wineck  302. 
Wingen  316. 
Winkel  133.  141. 
Winneburg  194. 
Winningen  191. 
Winnweiler  170. 
Winterberg,  the    (near 

Ems)  215. 
— ,  the  (Spicheren)  174. 
— ,  the  Orosse  816. 
Winterborg  169. 
Winterich  201. 
Winterkasten  269. 
Winterswyk  19. 
Winterwerb  116. 
Winzenheim  344. 
Winzingen,  ch&t.  289. 
Wirft  204. 
Wisch  339. 
Wisneck  418. 
Wissen  66. 

Wiapei^Thal,  the  126. 
Wittelsheim  824. 
Wittlich  198. 
Wittlingen  423. 
Witznauer  Miihle  488. 
Woippr  179. 
Wolf  200. 
Wolfach  406. 
Wolfhezen  17. 
Wolflsheim  330. 
Wolflingen  316. 
Wolfsberg,  the  208. 
Wolfsbrunnen,  the  271. 

-  Inn  396. 

Wolfsburg,  ruin  289.  293 
Wolfsgarten  16. 
Wolfskehlen  250.   354. 
Wolfskirchen  818. 
Wolfsschhicht  276.  372. 
Wolfstein  294. 
Wolkenburg,  the  94. 
Wollbach  4^ 
Wdllstein  386. 


Wolterdingen  406. 
Wonsheim  170. 
Worms  281. 
Worringen  66. 
Worrstadt  286. 
Worsdorf  349. 
W6rth  (Alsace)  292. 

—  (Palatinate)  298. 
— ,  eh&t   434. 
Wupper,  the  26.  63.  65. 
Wiirgersdorf  66. 
WUrselen  16. 
Wutach,  the  433. 
Wyhlen  431. 

Zanten  68. 

Tach404. 
Yburg,  castle  374. 

Zabem  316. 
Zabemer  Senke  817. 
ZahlbMsh  166. 
Zahringen  377. 
Zarten  413. 
Zastler-Thal,  the  418. 
Zeiger,  the  418. 
Zeilhard  263. 
Zeiskam  298. 
Zeiat  17. 

Zell  (on  the  Harmers- 
bach>  400 

—  (Hoselle)  198. 

ZeU  (Miimlingthal)  268. 

—  (Palatinate)  286. 

—  (Wiesenthal)  436. 
Zellenberg  340. 
Zeller  Blauen,  the  436. 
Zeltingen  300. 
Zendscheid  306. 
Zevenaar  18.  69. 
Zewen  181. 
Ziegelhausen  273. 
Ziegelkopf,  the  402. 
ZUlisheim  325. 
Zinzel-Thal,  the  916. 
Zollhaus  144.  121. 
Zollners-Miihle,  the  120. 
Zons  66. 

Zom,  the  293.  298. 
Zotzenbach  261. 
Zotzenheim  286. 
Zulpich  303. 
Zusenhofen  397. 
Zweibriicken  300. 
Zweibriiggen  60. 
Zweribach-Fall,  the  410. 
Zwickgabel  394. 
Zwieselberg,  the  409. 
Zwingenberg  256.  274. 


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