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Rider's 

NEW  YORK  CITY 

A  Guide-Book  for  Travelers 


RIDER'S  GUIDES 

Ready : 

Rider's  NEW  YORK  CITY 


In  Preparation: 

Rider's  NEW  ENGLAND 

Rider's  BALTIMORE  AND 
WASHINGTON 

Rider's  CALIFORNIA 

Rider's  FLORIDA 


Rider's 


NEW  YORK  CITY 

and  vicinity,  including  Newark, 
Yonkers  and  Jersey  City 


A  GUIDE-pOOK  for  TRAVELERS 

with  16  maps  and  18  plana 
Compiled  and  edited  by 

FREMONT  J^IDER 

With  the  aasiatance  of  Frederic  Taber  Cooper,  Mary 
Alden  Hopkins  and  others 


NEW  YORK 

HENRY  HOLT  AND  COMPANY 

1916 


128.5 


1  "■■*"  1 


Copyright,  1916 

by 
The  Rider   Press,   Inc. 


The  contents  of  this  volume  are  fully  pro- 
tected by  copyright  both  in  the  United  States 
and  in  foreign  countries^  and  infringements 
thereof  will  be  vigorously  prosecuted. 


PREFACE 

The  desirability  of  a  comprehensive  guide  book  for  what 

X^  is  unquestionably  the  greatest  city  in  the  western  hemisphere 

/VN   and  in  many  respects  the  greatest  city  in  the  world  is  so 

,^   evident  that  no  excuse  for  attempting  its  preparation  seems 

^  i      necessary. 

■^  ^  Neither    does    apology    seem    necessary    for   taking   the 

'    H    admirable    Baedeker    series    for    model.      That    portion    of 
,    ^    Baedeker's    "United    States"   covering   New   York   has   been 
-f    K     perhaps   our   most   thorough   guide    book   treatment   of    the 
-  ^   metropolis,  and  this  despite  the  fact  that  it  sought  to  do  in 
O   0    sixty  pages  what  in  the  case  of  Paris  and  London  had  taken 
four   or   five   hundred   pages.     Where   divergence   has   been 
made-  from  the  well-known   Baedeker  style  and   format,   it 
is  hoped  that  the  innovations  may  be  found  to  be  improve- 
ments. 

No  great  city  on  earth  is  in  so  constant  and  rapid  a  state 
of  flux  as  New  York.  A  guide  book  to  Rome  may  stand 
without  revision  for  a  dozen  years  or  a  score  of  years  with 
tolerable  complacency.  A  New  York  guide  book  half  as  old 
would  be  most  annoyingly  out  of  date.  During  the  three 
years  that  this  present  volume  has  been  in  active  preparation, 
some  parts  of  it  have,  because  of  changes,  been  rewritten 
and  actually  reset  three  times,  while  other  changes  in  the 
text  have  occurred  literally  on  every  page,  up  to  the  moment 
of  closing  forms: 

This  volume  is  believed  to  cover  in   large  part  virgin 
ground,   and   conscientious   effort   has   been   made   to   check 
every  item  by  "field  work."     Of  the  individuals  who  have 
aided  in  its  compilation  the  complete  list  would  be  a  long 
one.    The  Editor  desires  to  acknowledge  his  special  indebted-. 
j-L     ness  however,  to  Miss  Alice  Hartich,  who  prepared  several 
/i)      sections  of  the  introductory  matter;   to  his  brother-in-law, 
Captain  Stuart  Godfrey,  Corps  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  who 
^^      wrote  the  paragraph  on  "Fortifications";  to  Miss  Mary  Alden 
'^      Hopkins,   who   compiled   much    of   the   hotel    material,    who 
J^     was   responsible   for  practically  all  the  material   relative  to 
'       institutional  work  in  the  city  and  who  covered  for  the  guide 
book  propter  much  of  the  down-town  and  mid-town   Man- 
•  --    hattan  sections;  to  Mr.  Edmund  L.  Pearson,  director  of  pub- 
^     lications   of   the    N.   Y.    Public   Library,    who   prepared   the 
5     data  on  that  institution;  to  Miss  Doris  Webb,  of  the  staff 
of  the  Publishers'  Weekly,  who  is  responsible  for  the  "Bibli- 
ography";   to    Mr.    Frank   L.    Congdon,   of   the    New    York 
Telephone  Company  for  courtesies  rendered ;  to  Mr.  T.  A. 

4-ioooo 


vi  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Chard,  of  Ranct  McNally  &  Company,  to  whose  interest 
whatever  excellence  several  of  the  maps  in  the  present  vol- 
ume may  have  is  largely  due,  and  to  Rand,  McNally  &  Com- 
pany themselves  for  permission  to  use  their  map  of  Central 
Park;  to  Mr.  Frank  A.  Dickey,  the  Registrar  of  Columbia 
University,  who  read  the  proofs  of  the  sections  relating  to  that 
institution;  to  Dr.  F.  A.  Lucas,  director  of  the  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  for  invaluable  criticism  and 
suggestions;  to  the  Rev.  Wm.  A.  Grosvenor,  dean  of  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine,  who  examined  the  material 
thereon;  to  Mr.  John  Cotton  Dana,  Librarian  of  the  Newark 
Public  Library,  for  co-operation  in  the  preparation  and  cor- 
rection of  the  material  upon  Newark;  to  Dr.  E.  L.  Stevenson, 
Secretary  of  the  Hispanic  Society  Museum,  who  read  proof 
thereon ;  to  the  New  York  Zoological  Society,  who  read  proofs 
upon  and  made  many  helpful  suggestions  regarding  the  Bronx 
Park  section;  to  Mr.  E.  A.  Hungerford  of  the  Brooklyn  Y. 
M.  C.  A.,  who  prepared  the  material  on  that  institution;  to 
Miss  Florence  Huxley  and  Mr.  Charles  Leonard- Stuart,  who 
read  a  large  part  of  the  volume  in  proof;  to  Miss  Suzette  G. 
Stuart  who  prepared  the  index;  as  well  as  to  numerous 
others  whose  helpful  criticism .  was  a  continual  inspiration 
to  betterment. 

More  than  a  word  of  acknowledgment  however,  is  due 
the  labors  of  Mr.  Frederic  Taber  Cooper,  who  is  in  a  very 
real  sense  responsible  for  the  guide  book  as  it  stands. 
Imbued  with  a  genuine  love  for  New  York  City,  painstaking 
to  a  degree  and  indefatigable  in  the  pursuit  of  an  apparently 
elusive  item,  Mr.  Coooer  brought  to  that  portion  of  the  work 
of  compilation  in  which  he  was  engaged  an  enthusiasm  and 
ability  which  have  gone  far  to  make  the  Editor's  own  work 
therein  nominal.  Much  of  the  Bronx,  and  all  of  the  Brook- 
lyn, Newark  and  Yonkers  sections,  are  Mr.  Cooper's  sole 
work,  while  almost  every  other  section  of  the  volume  has 
had  to  a  greater  or  less  degree  the  benefit  of  his  suggestion 
and  revision.  • 

Acknowledgement  should  also  be  made  of  the  help 
received  from  a  large  number  of  local  histories  and  mono- 
graphs {see  Bibliography,  p.  99)  ;  also  more  specifically  to 
the  following  works,  which  have  been  of  special  service: 
'The  Historical  Guide  to  the  City  of  New  York,"  compiled 
by  Frank  Bergen  Kelley,  chiefly  from  contributions  by  mem- 
bers of  the  City  History  Club,  an  invaluable  aid  in  identifying 
historic  sites  and  ancient  landmarks;  the  City  Art  Commis- 
sion's "Catalogue  of  the  Works  of  Art  belonging  to  the  City 
of  New  York,"  containing  full  descriptions  of  all  sculptures, 


PREFACE  vii 

paintings  and  mural  frescoes  owned  by  the  city;  the  "New 
York  Charities  Directory,"  which  is  the  most  readily  access- 
ible source  of  information  regarding  the  city's  charitable  and 
benevolent  institutions ;  the  official  monographs  on  the  history 
respectively  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  and  St.  John  the 
Divine;  and  lastly  The  American  Architect,  Architecture  and 
Building,  and  other  kindred  periodicals  which  have  been 
especially  helpful  regarding  many  of  most  recently  erected 
New  York  buildings. 

To  be  a  guide-book  of  practical  use  to  the  traveler  it  is  of 
course  necessary  to  discriminate,  and  this  means  not  merely 
to  select  the  good  from  the  bad  but  oftentimes  to  mention 
a  few  good  samples  out  of  many  equally  or  nearly  as  good. 
With  every  endeavor  to  make  careful  selection  error  of  judg- 
ment and  differences  of  opinion  are  of  course  possible.  It 
need  hardly  be  said,  however,  that  no  remuneration  of  any 
sort,  direct  of  indirect,  has  secured  favorable  notice  in  this 
guide  book ;  and  that  altho  by  no  means  all  good  hotels,  rest- 
aurants, stores,  etc.,  are  listed,  the  converse  is  believed  true — 
that  those  which  are  listed  tvith  commendation  will  be  found 
satisfactory.  As  in  Baedeker,  the  especially  noteworthy  is 
iridicated  by  an  asterisk  [♦].  In  the  cases  of  several  art  col- 
lections where  the  Editor  was  unable  to  get  competent  expert 
opinion  no  such  attempt  at  differentiation  has  been  made. 

The  Editor  is  sure  that  only  one  who  has  attempted  to 
compile  a  guide  book  out  of  whole  cloth,  as  it  were,  com- 
pletely appreciates  the  complexity  of  the  task  and  the  in- 
finite opportunity  for  error  which  it  affords.  He  realizes 
therefore  the  imperfections  and  hiatuses  of  this  work  more 
clearly  probably  than  will  its  severest  critics;  and  he  will 
most  cordially  welcome  corrections  and  suggestions  from  any 
source  for  its  improvement  in  succeeding  editions.  That  this 
volume  is  not  fully  worthy  of  its  subject  he  has  no  doubt; 
but  it  is  at  least  offered  as  a  sincere  tribute  to  the  city  of 
which  he  is  proud  to  count  himself  a  resident — ^as  have  three 
generations  of  his  family. 

The  Editor. 


ABBREVIATIONS 
USED  IN  THIS  VOLUME 


a. — ^acre 

acad . — academy 

Amer. — American 

apt. — apartment 

assoc. — association. 

auto. — ^automobile 

B. — baths 

Bap. — Baptist 

bk. — ba'nk  book 

bldg. — building 

blvd. — boulevard  ' 

B'klyn — Brooklyn 

C.  I. — Coney  Island 

Co.— company;    county 

Cong.— Congregational 

ct. — court 

dept. — department 

dist. — district 

E.— East 

Exch. — Exchange 

gym. — ^gymnasium 

hosp. — hospital 

Hts.— Heip;hts 

inst. — institute;    institution 

is. — island 

L.— Left 

L.   I. — Long  Island 

lib. — library 

M.    E. — Methodist  Episcopal 

med. — medical 

mi. — mile,     miles 


Mt. — Mount 

nat. — national 

N.— North 

N.   J. — New  Jersey 

N.   Y.— New   York 

N.  Y.   C— New  York  City 

Newark — Newark,   N.   J. 

p. — page,    pages 

P.    E. — Protestant   Episcopal 

P.   S. — Public   School 

pk. — ^park 

PI.— Plate 

Pres. — Presbyterian 

pres. — ^president 

Pt. — Point 

R.— Right 

R- — rooms 

R.  C. — Roman  Catholic 

Ref'd— Reformed 

regt. — regiment 

R.  R. — railroad 

res. — residence 

rcs't. — restaurant 

S. — South 

S.  I. — Staten  Island 

Soc. — Society 

Sq. — Square 

U.  S.— United  States 

W.— West 

w.  w. — with  wine 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

Introduction 

I.  General  Description  of  New  York  City,  Its 
Geography  and  Geology xv 

II.  History  of  New  Yprk  City      .        .        .      '  .       xix 

III.  The  Public  Administration  of  the  City  .  xxv 

IV.  The  Business  of  New  York    ....    xxxi 
V.    Charitable  Work  and   Social   Investigation 

in   New   York xxxii 

VI.    Miscellaneous    Information    for    the    Pros- 
pective Visitor  in  New  York  ....  xxxvi 
a.  Passports,    Customs,    Time,    Climate,    xxxvi:    b. 
,  Money,  Expenses,  xxxviii;   c.  Some  General   Notes 

on  the  Life  and  Customs  of  New  York   xxxix. 

Preliminary  Information 

I.    Arrival  in  New  York i 

a.  At  the  Railroad  Station,  i;  b.  Division  of  Ma- 
terial in  this  Guide  Book,  Maps,  2;  c.  The  Motorist 
in  New  York,  Garage  Facilities,  etc.,  Traffic  Regu- 
tions,  3. 

II.    Hotels  and  Boardway  Houses  .  .         .6 

a.  General  Information,.  6;  b.  Large  and  Expensive 
Hotels  of  the  Very  First  Rank  7;  c.  Downtown 
Hotels— the  Battery  to  14th  St.,  8;  d.  Midtown 
Hotels — 14th  Street  to  spth  Street,  8;  e  Uptown 
Hotels — Above  59th  Street,  12;  f.  Hotel  Accom. 
modations  for  Women,  13;  g.  Furnished  Rooms,  14; 
h.  Suites  and  Furnished  Apartments,  15;  i.  Board* 
ing  Houses,  Pensions,   16. 

III.  Baths,   Barber   Shops,   etc 17 

IV.  Restaurants  and  Tea  Rooms   ....       18 

a.  Downtown  Restaurants,  19;  b.  Midtown  Res- 
taurants, 20;  Uptown  Restaurants,  22;  d.  English 
Chop  Houses,  22;  e.  French  Restaurants,  22; 
f.  German  Restaurants,  23;  g.  Italian  Restaurants, 
23;  h.  Spanish  Restaurants,  24;  i.  Chinese  Res- 
taurants, 24;  j.  Other  Foreign  Restaurants,  25; 
k.  Department  Store  Restaurants,  25;  1.  Dairy 
Lunch  Rooms,  25;  m.  Tea  Rooms,  26. 

V.  Urban    Travel-^Conveyances,    Cabs,    Motor 
Busses,  etc 28 

VI.  Urban  Travel— Railroads,  Street  Railroads 
(Tram  Lines),  Elevated  and  Subway       .         .       29 

VII.    Urban  Travel — Ferries,  Water  Services  .         .       36 
VIII.    Railroad  Stations,  Ticket  Offices,  etc.       .  37 

a.  Railroad  Stations,  37;  b.  Railroad  City  Ticket 
Offices,   39;   Tourist  and   Freight  Agents,  41. 

IX.     Steamship  and  Steamboat  Lines  and  Offices   .       42 


RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 


X. 


XI. 


XII. 

XIII. 

XIV. 

XV. 

XVI. 

XVII. 

XVIII. 

XIX. 

XX. 

XXI. 

XXII. 


XXIII. 


Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  Telephones,  Ex- 
press  Companies 

a.  Postal  Facilities,  44;  b.  Telegraph  and  Cable 
Offices  and  Service,  47;  c.  Messenger  Service,  49; 
Express   Companies,   49;    d.   Telephones,    51. 

Theatres,  Music  Halls,  Other  Places  of 
Entertainment 

I.  Midtown  District,  54;  II.  Uptown  District,  60; 
Foreign  Theatres,  61. 

Concerts,   Art   Exhibitions,   etc. 

a.  Concert  Halls,  62;  b.  Art  Exhbitions,  63. 

Sports,  Games,  etc.  . 

Clubs        

Shops  and   Stores    . 
Churches,  Religious  Services  . 
Libraries  and  Reading  Rooms 
Newspapers  and   Periodicals    . 
Physicians.     Dentists.     Hospitals 

Banks       

Consular  Offices 
Planning  a  New  York  Stay 

a.  Distribution  of  Time,  93;  b.  Preliminary  Survey 
of  city,  96;  c.  A  List  of  New  York's  Principal 
Attractions,   98. 

Bibliography 


44 


Entering  New  York 

I.    Via  Ocean   Steamship       .... 
II.    Via  Long  Island  Sound  Steamboats 

III.  Via  Hudson  River  Steamboat  .         . 

IV.  Via  Railroad 

a.  Via  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R, 
114;  b.  Via  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
R.  R.,  115;  c.  Via  West  Shore  R.  R.,  116;  d.  Via 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.,   116;  e.  Via  Erie  R.  R.,   117; 

f.  Via   Delaware,   Lackawanna   &   Western   R.    R.. 

g.  Via  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey,  118. 

Downtown  New  York 

(From  the  Battery  to  Fourfeenth  Street) 
I.    The  Battery  and  Vicinity 
II.    Broadway  from  Bowling  Green  to  Wall  St. 

III.  Wall,   Broad,   Nassau  and  William   Streets 
and  their  Neighborhood   .... 

IV.  Broadway  from  Wall   Street  to   City  Hall 
Park 

V.     City  Hall  Park  and  Vicinity     . 


52 


62 

65 
73 
74 
79 
85 
86 

88 

90 

91 
92 


99 


104 
108 
112 

"3 


119 

125 

126 

132 

139 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


XI 


VI.    The  Section  North  and  East  of  City  Hall 

Park 

VII.    From  Canal  to  Fourteenth  Street  East  of 

Broadway  .         . 

VIII.    From  Chambers  Street  to  Fourteenth  Street 
West  of  Broadway:  Greenwich  Village  . 

Midtown  New  York 

(From  Fourteenth  Street  to  Fifty^Ninth  Street) 
I.    Broadway  from  Union  Square  to  Columbus 

Circle 

II.    Fifth  Avenue  from  Washington  Square  to 
Forty-second  Street 

a.  Washington  Square,  174;  b.  Lower  Fifth  Avenue, 
176;^  c.  Side  Excursion  on  University  Place,  179; 
d.  Fifth  Avenue  from  Fourteenth  to  Forty-second 
Street,  179 

III.  The  New"  York  Public  Library 

IV.  Fifth  Avenue  from  the  Public  Library  (42d 
St.)  to  the  Plaza  (59th  St.)     .        .        . 

V.    Madison  Avenue  North  to  Fifty-ninth  Street     . 
VI.    Fourth  Avenue  and  Park  Avenue  North  to 

Fifty-ninth  Street 

VII.    Irving  Place  and  Lexington  Avenue  North 

to  Fifty-ninth  Street 

VIII.    Midtown    New    York    East   of    Lexington 

Avenue 

IX.    Midtown  New  York  West  of  Fifth  Avenue 
and  Broadway 

a.  Sixth  Avenue,  226;  b.  Seventh  Avenue,  230;  c. 
Eighth  Avenue,  23 1 ;  d.  Ninth  Avenue,  232 ;  e.  Tenth 
Avenue,  237;  f.  Eleventh  Avenue,  237;  g.  Twelfth 
Avenue,   238. 

Uptown  New  York 

I.    Broadway  and  the  West  Side  Uptown  from 

59th  to   iioth   Street         .... 
II.    Central  Park  West 

III.  The  New  York  Historical  Society  . 

IV.  Riverside  Drive  (as  far  as  Manhattanville) 

V.  Morningside    Heights    (East    of    Riverside 
Drive  from  iioth  to  125th  Streets)   . 

VI.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine 

VII.  Columbia    University        .... 

VIII.  The  American  Museum  of  Natural  History 

IX.  Central    Park 

X.  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  . 


147 
151 
158 


163 
174 

186 

196 
205 

214 

218 

223 

226 


239 
242 
244 

251 

255 
257 
263 
278 
301 
305 


xii  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

XI.    East     Side — Uptown      (from      Fifty-ninth 

Street  to  the  Harlem  River     ....     329 

a.  Fifth  Avenue,  329;  b.  Madison  Avenue,  334: 
c  Park  Avenue,  335;  d.  Lexington  Avenue,  337; 
e.  East  of  Lexington  Avenue,  337;  f.  Harlem,  340. 
XII.  Washington  Heights  (Northern  Manhattan 
Island — Southern  Section)    (From  130th  St. 

to   i6oth   St.) 343 

XIII.  Northern  Manhattan  Island — Northern  Sec- 
tion (From  i6oth  St.  to  Spuyten  Duyvil, 
225th   St.) 351 

The  Bronx 

I.    Introductory 358 

II.    From  Central  Bridge  to  Van  Cortlandt  Park         360 

III.  The   Bronx:    Middle   Section    (From   Mott 
Haven  to  Crotona  Park 364 

IV.  Bronx    Park:    The    New    York   Zoological 

Park 366 

V.    Bronx  Park:  The  New  York  Botanical  Gar- 
den ........  377 

VI.    Woodlawn    Cemetery    •    .  384 
VII.    Eastern    Section    of    the    Bronx:     Pelham 

Bay   Park 388 


Yonkers 393 

Brooklyn 

I.  Preliminary  Information  ....     397 

II.  From  Fulton  Ferry  to  Borough  Hall  401 

III.  Brooklyn  Heights  .         .  405 

IV.  From  Borough  Hall  to  Prospect  Park      .         .417 

a.  From  Borough  Hall  to  the  Plaza,  417;  b.  Pros- 
pect Park  Plaza,  419;  c.  Side  Excursion  to  Pros- 
pect  Park   West,   421 

V.    Prospect   Park 422 

VI.    The  Brooklyn  Museum     .....  424 
VII.    From    the    Plaza   to    Bedford    Park    (The 
Botanical     Gardens     and     the     Childrens' 

Museum) 434 

VIII.    From  Fort  Greene  Park  to  Pratt  Institute  436 

IX.    Northern   Brooklyn 439 

a.  The  Brooklyn  Navy  Yard,  439;  b.  Side  Excur- 
sion: From  Wallabout  Market  to  Williamsburg 
Plaza,   441. 

X.    Greenwood   Cemetery       .....     445 
XI.    Coney  Island,  Brighton  Beach  and  Sheeps- 

head    Bay 446 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


xin 


Staten  Jsland 

The  New  Jersey  Shore 

J..    Jersey   City 
II.     Hoboken 


.     449 


.     453 
.     458 


Newark 


I. 

11. 

III. 

Index 


Northern  Section :     From  Military  Park  to 
Branch  Brook  Park  .... 

Central  Section :   From  Military  Park  to  the 
"Four  Corners;"  Market  Street 
Southern  Section:    From  the  "Four  Corners 
to    Weequahic    Park  .... 


463 
472 

476 
481 


LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  PLANS 


MAPS  IN  COLOR 


Facing 


Plate  A.     New  York  City,  and  Vicinity 
I.     Battery  to   iioth   St. 
II.     Lower    End    of    Manhattan 

III.  Thirty-fourth   Street   Section 

IV.  Forty-second    Street    Section 
V.     Central    Park    Section 

VI.     Morningside    Heights 
VII.     Columbia    University 
VIII.     Central   Park — Northern    Section 
IX.     Central    Park — Southern    Section 
XI.     Bronx  and  Northern  Manhattan  Section 
XII.     Brooklyn  ..... 

XIII.     Central    Brooklyn    Section 
XV.     Westchester  County  (Yonkers,  Mt.  Vernon  and  New 
Rochelle 
XVI.     Northern    New    York    Citv 
XVII.     Southwestern    Suburbs    of    New    York    (Jersey    City, 
Newark,     etc.)         ....... 


Page 
3 
32 
120 
184 
200 
248 

264 
301 

304 
361 
401 
408 

392 
389 

448 


PLANS  IN  THE   TEXT 


New   York   Public   Library; 

First    Floor    Plan 

Second    Floor    Plan 


Basement   Plan 


Page 
187 
189 
190 


XIV 


RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 


Third    Floor    Plan 


American  Museum  of  Natural  History:  General  Plan 

Cross  Section  of.  Building 

First     Floor 

'  Second    Floor 

Third    Floor 

Fourth    Floor 

Fifth     Floor 

Metropolitan  Art  Museum- 

Second    Floor 

General   Plan   New   York   Botanical    Garden 
Botanical   Museum    Building — Muse\im   of   Systematic 

Upper   Floor        ...... 

Museum   of   Economic    Botany 

Museum  of  Fossil   Botany    .... 


-First   Floor 


•         • 

192 

•           • 

278 

•           • 

280 

*           *           I 

282 

•         • 

.•   287 

■               •               4 

292 

•               • 

295 

•               • 

299 

•               • 

306 

«               • 

312 

•               • 

379 

Botany 

380 

• 

.   382 

•        • 

.   383 

•        • 

385 

INTRODUCTION 

I.     General  Description  of  New  York  City.     Its 

Geography  and  Geology 

New  York  City,  the  largest  city  in  the  Western  Hemi- 
sphere and  probably  now  also  the  largest  in  the  world,*  lies 
in  the  40°  42'  43"  N.  lat.  and  74°  o'  33"  W.  long.,  calculated 
at  the  City  Hall  (p.  141).  In  a  direct  line  it  lies  205  mi. 
distant  from  Washington,  715  from  Chicago,  and  190  from 
Bostgn.  Greater  New  York  has  an  area  of  326.83  sq.  mi. 
and  is  divided  into  5  boroughs: 

The  Borough  of  Manhattan  is  an  island,  bounded  on  the 
E.  by  the  East  River,  and  Harlem  River,  on  the  N^  by  the 
U.  S.  Ship  Canal ;  W.  by  the  Hudson  River,  coming  to  a  point 
in  the  Battery,  at  the  S.  This  island  is  about  13  mi.  long  with 
an  average  width  of  2  mi.  Including  the  islands,  Blackwell's, 
Ward's,  Randall's,  and  Governor's,  it  has  an  area  of  about  21.9' 
sq.  mi.  The  lower  half  of  the  island  is  flat.  The  upper  half 
slopes  up  from  the  Hudson  to  a  higher  ridge.  The  ground  is 
almost  solid  rock,  chiefly  gneiss  and  limestone  (p.  xvi).  Some 
idea  of  the  amount  of  blasting  necessary  to  sink  the  deep 
foundations  of  the  sky-scrapers  can  be  obtained  from  viewing 
the  rocky  ledges  of  blocks  in  the  northern  part  of  the  city, 
not  yet  built  upon. 

The  Borough  of  the  Brohx  is  on  the  mainland  north  of 
Manhattan  Island,  and  extends  from  the  East  River  to  the 
Hudson  and  N.  to  Yonkers.  Including  North  Brother,  South 
Brother,  Riker's,  City,  Rodman,  Hunter,  and  Hart's  islands, 
it  has  an  area  of  40.6  sq.  mi. 

The  Borough  of  Brooklyn  consists  of  the  S.  W.  end  of 
Long  Island,  at  the  southern  end,  Coney  Island,  and  a  num- 

•There  seems  little  doubt  that  the  City  of  New  York  and  its 
environs  has  become  within  the  last  decade  actually  the  greatest  urban 

Elexus  in  the  world,  wresting  premier  position  is  this  respect  from 
,ondon.  The  population  of  greater  Lonoon  (including  all  the  suburbs 
which  are  separate  administrative  entities  but  within  the  Metropolitan 
Police  District)  was  in  1915  estimated  at  7,200,000.  Jersey  City, 
Hoboken  and  the  other  New  Jersey  cities  within  th«  New  York  urban 
area  on  the  west,  as  well  as  Yonkers,  Mt.  Vernon,  New  Rochelle,  etc., 
on  the  north,  although  politically  detached,  all  go  to  make  up  the 
"city"  of  New  York  in  the  larger  sense,  their  political  detachment 
being  in  a  certain  sense  accidental.  Including  these  the  population 
of  the  New  York  area  corresponding  to  the  Metropolitan  London  area 
was  7,500,000.  The  population  of  New  York  City  proper  was,  in  191 5, 
5. 585, 772.  The  London  area  comparable  with  this,  viz.  the  adminis- 
trative City  of  London  governed  by  the  London  County  Council  had, 
in  191 1,  a  population  of  4,522,964,  and  it  is  probable  that  this  area 
has   since   shown   little   or   no   increase. 


xvi  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ber  of  islands  in  Jamaica  Bay.    It  has  an  area  of  77.6  sq.  mi. 
Brooklyn  was  formerly  a  city  by  itself. 

The  Borough  of  Queens  consists  of  a  portion  of  Long 
Island  lying  northeast  of  Brooklyn,  in  which  are  situated 
Flushing,  Hempstead,  Jamaica,  Long  Island  City  and  New- 
town, and  numerous  small  islands  in  Jamaica  Bay.  It  has 
an  area  of  118.6  sq.  mi. 

The  Borough  of  Richmond  is  Sfaten  Island,  lying  at 
the  entrance  to  New  York  Harbor,  with  Shooter  Island  and 
a  few  contiguous  marshy  islands.  It  has  an  area  of  57.2  sq.  mi. 
Staten  Island  is  14  mi.  long  and  7  mi.  wide  at  its  widest  point, 
and  has  13  mi.  of  ocean  frontage.  It  contains  some  farms. 
Todt  Hill,  whose  summit  is  417  ft.  above  sea  level,  is  said 
to  be  the  highest  point  on  the  Atlantic  coast  from  Maine  to 
Florida. 

Geology.  The  five  boroughs  of  Greater  New  York  may  be  treated 
for  geological  purposes  in  three  divisions,  since  Manhattan  and  the 
Bronx  on  the  one  hand,  and  Brooklyn  and  Queens  on  the  other  are 
closely  similar  in  structure.  The  Island  of  Manhattan  is  in  the  main 
a  ridge  of  gneiss,  modified  at  its  upper  end  by  limestone  belts  and 
carrying  on  its  surface  an  accumulation  of  sands,  clays  and  gravel. 
In  later  stages,  as  the  process  of  lithofaction  proceeded,  these  deposits 
were  carried  up  in  almost  vertical  sheets  and  the  fissures  filled  with 
granite  and  fused  gneiss.  Gneiss  predominates  on  the  west  side 
of  the  island  and  graduates  into  mica  schist  on  the  east,  although  no 
clear  line  of  demarkatioh  can  be  drawn.  Gneiss  as  found  in 
Manhattan  varies  from  light  gray  to  dark,  the  color  depending  on 
the  relative  quantities  of  black  mica,  granite  and  feldspar  present. 
In  some  varieties  solid  ribbons  of  spar  quartz  are  found  alternating 
with   narrow   strips  of  mica. 

This  foundation  of  gneiss  extends  beneath  the  mud  of  New  York 
Bay,  reappears  in  Governor's  Island,  underlies  Long  Island  and  Staten 
Island,  constituting  the  earliest  and  basal  geological  foundation.  For 
a  more  detailed  inquiry  into  the  Island's  structure,  it  is  convenient 
to  consider  it  in  three  sections:  i,  the  lower  portion,  bounded  on 
the  north  approximately  by  a  V-shaped  line  running  from  21st  St. 
and  the  East  River  to  Broadway  and  13th  St.j  thence  northwest  to 
31st  St.  and  the  Hudson;  2,  northward  to  approximately  120th  St.;  and 
3,  from  120th  St.  to  Spuyten  Duyvel.  In  the  first  section  there  is  no 
exposed  rock;  but  in  early  colonial  times  there  were  numerous  hills, 
composed  of  earth,  sand,  gravel  and  scattered  boulders.  They  were 
the  result  ot  glacial  action,  which  had  gradually  overspread  the  entire 
lower  portion  of  the  island  with  a  mantle  of  debris,  varying  greatly 
in  depth,  brought  down  from  the  northern  and  higher  portions  of  the 
central  ridge.  Excavations  necessitated  in  the  course  of  laying  founda- 
tions for  modern  office  buildings  have  furnished  some  interesting 
details  of  the  thickness  of  these  upper  strata.  Under  Trinity  Church, 
for  instance,  it  is  only  26  feet  to  bed-rock,  through  sand  and  gravel; 
at  Broad  St.  it  is  39  feet;  at  Washington  Market  it  is  60  feet;  at 
City  Hall,  90  feet;  at  Fulton  Market,  130  feet;  and  where  the  Tombs 
now  stand,  almost  in  the  middle  of  what  was  once  the  "Collect,"  a 
pond  which  the  city  engineers  almost  despaired  of  filling  in,  it  is 
15s  feet  to  rock.  The  upper  layers,  however,  are  not  uniformly  gravel 
and  sand.  In  many  localities  there  arc  wide  areas  of  "hard  pan,"  a 
•olid,    compact    clay    which    some    authorities    have    declared    a    safe 


GEOLOGY  OF  NEW  YORK  CITY  xvii 

foundation  for  any  structure  ever  likely  to  be  erected  on  the  island. 
Elsewhere,  however,  subterranean  streams  have  formed  dangerous 
pockets  ot  quick-sand,  the  sand  and  wet  clay  form  slippery  surfaces, 
and  the  only  safe  solution  is  bed-rock. 

In  the  second  section  of  Manhattan,  all  the  typical  varieties  of 
local  rock  may  still  be  seen  in  place,  except  Kin^sbrid^e  limestone. 
Gneiss,  as  has  already  been  said,  predominates;  but  it  varies  widely  in 
appearance  and  quality,  since  the  name  really  includes  a  number  of 
rocks  of  different  mineral  combinations,  having  only  one  quality  in 
common;  they  are  all  stratified  and  break  up  in  thin  layers.  Some 
excellent  exposures  of  gneiss,  showing  variations,  may  be  seen  in  the 
Transverse  Road  in  Central  Park,  at  79th  St.;  at  the  entrance  to  the 
park,  at  8th  Ave.  and  io6th  St.;  and  on  the  bluffs  at  Cathedral 
Heights  and  iioth  St.  Micaceous  gneiss  can  be  seen  at  a  number 
of  exposures  on  the  east  side  of  the  city:  i.e.,  at  East  River  Park  and 
86th  St.;  East  End  Ave.  and  77th  St.;  7Sth  St.  and  the  river;  73d 
St.  and  Avenue  A;  and  in  the  steep  wall  of  the  East  River  channel, 
between  ^ist  and  52d  Sts. 

Granite  is  found  on  Manhattan  Island  at  only  one  point:  on  the 
West  Side,  from  48th  to  55th  Sts.,  where  it  reaches  a  development 
that  entitles  it  to  rank  as  one  of  the  substantial  mineral  constituents 
of  the  island.  It  can  still  be  seen  at  50th  St.  and  nth  Ave.,  pro- 
jecting on  the  south  side  of  the  street.  This  granite  is  what  is  scien- 
tificalfy  known  as  "intrusive,"  i.e.,  not  originating  from  a  rearrange- 
ment of  gneiss  in  fusion,  but  pushed  by  subterranean  forces  upward 
through  the  gneiss  beds.  Throughout  the  gneiss  rock  of  "the  island 
graJnite  veins  occur,  plainly  visible  even  at  a  distance,  and  looking 
Hke  white  ribbons  against  a  gray  or  black  cloth.  These  veins  form 
the  matrix  of  the  most  beautiful  and  striking  mineral  developments 
on  the  island,  the  list  including  garnets,  tourmalines,  beryl,  amethysts, 
and  jasper.  In  fact,  the  list  of  more  or  less  rare  minerals  on  the 
island^  includes  over  one  hundred  different  sorts,  a  larger  number 
than  is  found  at  the  famous  Lamoe  Rock  of  Norway,  or  the  prolific 
mines  of  Arendahl;  larger,  in  fact,  than  in  any  other  locality  of 
similar  size  in  the  United  States.  (An  interesting  collection  of  these 
local  minerals  is  that  of  the  New  York  Mineralogical  Club,  on  exhi- 
bition in  the  Hall  of  Mineralogy,  American  Museum  of  Natural 
History). 

In  the  third  section  of  Manhattan  Island,  from  120th  St.  north  to 
Kinp^bridge,  we  find  three  separate  features  of  geologic  interest: 
I,  limestone  beds;  2,  transverse  ravines,  one  at  130th  St.  and  another 
at  Inwood;  3,  a  flat,  alluvial  plain,  constituting  the  Harlejn  Flats. 
The  limestone  beds  attain  an  elevation  of  about  50  feet  along  the 
ship  canal  and  in  the  cut  and  opening  of  200th  St.  They  extend 
from  the  village  of  Marble  Hill  southward  to  within  300  feet  of  the 
little  church  on  Dyckman  St. 

The  two  transverse  depressions,  the  one  at  130th  St.  and  the  other 
at  Inwood  are  evidently  former  passages  for  the  waters  of  the 
Hudson  River  to  pour  eastward.  It  is  believed  that  they  are  the 
result  of  an  oblique  wresiting  of  the  rock,  a  sort  of  lateral  strain 
which  separated  the  ridge  and  gave  a  chance  for  the  elements  to 
enter  and  do  the  rest.  Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek  possibly  marks  a  third 
point  of  cleavage.  There  are  indications  that  these  depressions  were 
channels  for  the  ice  movement  in  the  glacial  period.  The  alluvial 
basins,  one  forming  the  upper  basin  of  the  Harlem  River  and  the 
other  the  area  of  the  Harlem  Flats,  originated  in  fluviatile  move- 
ment  through   these   gateways. 

Evidences  of  glacial  action  in  Manhattan  and  the  Bronx  may 
still  be  seen  in  the  boulders  and  the  grooved  surfaces  of  rocks  in 
Central  and  Bronx  Parks.  The  most  famous  boulder  is  the  so- 
called    "Rocking-stone,"    in    the    Bronx    Zoological    Garden,    near    the 


xviii  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Lydig  Arch.  In  Central  Park  the  boulders  most  readily  found  arc: 
one  north  of  Sheep  Meadow,  near  the  "Mineral  Springs";  the  other 
on  the  south  side  of  the  meadow.  Some  interesting  glacial  grooves 
may  bo  seen  on  the  elevation  known  as  Mount  Tom,  in  Riverside  Park 
at  83d  St.,  and  also  at  Ssd   St. 

The  whole  region  of  Brooklyn  and  Queens  is  a  section  of  what 
is  known  as  the  Terminal  Moraine  (a  chain  of  hills,  hillocks,  mounds 
and  debris,  which  stretches  from  Cape  Cod  in  the  east  to  the  State  of 
Washington  in  the  west,  and  marks  the  southern  limit  of  the  glacial 
action  in  the  ice  age.  The  rock  foundation  of  Long  Island  is  identical 
with  that  of  Manhattan,  and  appears  at  Blackwell's  Island,  Astoria  and 
Long  Island  City.  Elsewhere  in  Brooklyn  and  Queens  this  supporting 
arch  of  archaean  rock  is  reached  only  at  considerable  depths.  From 
Bay  Ridge  to  Bath  Beach  the  depth  to  bed  rock  is  successively  200, 
300,  400  and  500  feet.  The  intervening  strata,  however,  are  not  all 
drift;  large  beds  of  clay  (Cretaceous  and  perhaps  Tertiary  forma- 
tions) underly  both  Brooklyn  and  Queens;  these  beds  are  from  300 
to  400  feet  thick,  and  consist  of  a  plastic  clay  alternating  with  strata 
of  aand,  resting  on  the  crystaline  rocks  beneath. 

Staten  Island  consists  largely  of  hills  of  serpentine,  resting  on 
a  lower  bed  of  crystaline  rock  similar  to  that  of  Manhattan.  This 
serpentine  is  for  the  most  part  a  characteristic  yellowish-ffreen,  shad- 
ing eff  to  whitish ;  but  in  some  localities  it  occurs  almost  olack.  The 
only  other  massive  rock  in  Staten  Island  is  trap-rock,  often  called 
New  Jersev  Blue  Stone.  It  is  an  igneous  rock,  forced  up  from  some 
deep-seated  source  of  molten  minerals. 

The   Fortifications  of   New   York   Harbor 

The  Theory  of  Harbor  Fortlflcatlons.  The  primary  role  of 
sea-coast  fortifications  is  to  prevent  the  enemy  from  taking  by  naval 
assault  a  favorable  base  for  operations  against  the  country.  They  also 
protect  the  chief  cities  on  their  seaward  side,  and  secure  the  good  harbors 
as  bases  for  the  country's  own  fleets.  They  cannot  be  expected,  however, 
to  prevent  the  enemy  from  landing  elsewhere;  their  function  is  fulfilled 
if  the  latter  be  compelled  to  land  at  some  less  favorable  spot  on  the 
coast.  The  fixed  guns  of  a  fort  possess  an  inherent  advantage  over 
similar  weapons  mounted  on  the  comparatively  unstable  decks  of  a  ship. 
This  advantage  may  offset  a  considerable  superiority  in  range  and 
caliber  in  the  guns  of  the  ship,  which  is  likely  to  be  of  more  recent 
construction  than  the  fort. 

The  forts  thai  guard  New  York  Harbor  may  be  consid- 
ered in  four  groups : 

(i)  Southern  New  York.  Flanking  the  Narrows  on  east 
and  west,  some  seven  miles  south  of  the  "Battery,"  are  Forts 
Hamilton  and  Wadsworth,  which  effectually  guard  this  en- 
trance. 

Fort  Jay,  on  Governor's  Island,  close  to  the  "Battery," 
is  of  historical  interest  only,  with  its  moat  and  bastioned 
trace.  No  fortress  of  to-day  would  be  placed  so  close  to  the 
city  it  is  built  to  guard.  Tt  is  now  used  for  administrative 
purposes ;  here  is  located  the  headquarters  of  the  Eastern 
Department. 

(2)  Eastern  New  York.  On  either  side  of  the'  channel, 
east  of  the  city,  approaching  Hell  Gate,  are  Forts  Schuyler 
and  T often. 


HISTORY  OF  NEW  YORK  CITY  xix 

(3)  Sandy  Hook.  Fort  Hancock  is  about  sixteen  miles 
south  of  the  Battery,  on  the  tip  of  the  Hook.  Here,  too,  are 
located  the  Ordnance  School  and  the  Proving  Grounds. 

(4)  Long  Island  Sound.  At  the  eastern  entrance  to 
Long  Island  Sound,  the  channel  is  protected  by  a  line  of  four 
forts,  some  eighteen  miles  in  length,  from  northeast  to  south- 
west. Fort  Mansfield,  the  northernmost  of  the  group,  is  on 
the  mainland.  Fort  H.  G.  Wright,  the  largest  of  the  four, 
is  on  Fisher's  Island.  Across  the  Race  to  the  south  lie  Fort 
Michie  on  Great  Gull  Island,  and,  farther  on.  Fort  Terry  on 
Plum  Island.  Though  over  a  hundred  miles  from  New  York, 
these  forts,  by  guarding  the  entrance  to  the  Sound,  form  a 
part  of  the  defense   system  of   the   metropolis. 

II.    History  of  New  York  City 

Although  the  claim  is  made  that  Verrazano  entered  New 
York  harbor  in  1524,  and  the  Spanish  explorer  Estevan 
Gomez  in  1525,  authentic  history  begins  with  the  discovery 
of  the  Hudson  river  by  Henry  Hudson  in  1609.  Hud- 
son was  an  English  navigator  in  the  service  of  the  Dutch  East 
India  Company.  This  was  his  third  voyage  in  search  of  the 
Northwest  Passage  which  the  navigators  of  those  days  be- 
lieved to  exist,  affording  passage  to  the  Indies.  Thinking  he 
had  found  the  passage  he  ascended  the  river  in  his  ship  the 
Half  Moon  with  his  crew  of  18  men.  The  Dutch  thereafter 
claimed  this  territory.  , 

Beginning  with  1610,  Dutch  merchants  despatched 
several  vessels  to  engage  in  the  fur  trade  with  the  Indians. 
In  1613,  a  ship  commander,  Adrian  Block,  whose  ship  the 
Tiger  had  been  burned,  erected  four  houses  to  shelter  him- 
self and  crew  while  building  a  new  ship,  the  Unrest,  These 
dwellings,  the  first  white  men's  habitations  on  Manhattan 
Island,  formed  the  beginning  of  a  trading  post,  and  are  sup- 
posed to  have  been  situated  near  what  is  now  41  Broad- 
way. This  was  the  fourth  settlement  on  the  continent,  St. 
Augustine  having  been  founded  in  1606,  Santa  Fe  in  1605, 
and  Jamestown,  Va.,  in  1607.  Plvmouth  was  established  in 
1620.  In  161 5  Fort  Nassau  was  established  on  a  site  near 
Albany  and  in  1622  it  was  abandoned  in  favor  of  the  present 
site  of  Albany,  then  called  Fort  Orange. 

In  1614,  the  States  General  of  Holland  chartered  the 
United  New  Netherland  Company  of  Amsterdam,  granting 
it  a  three-year  monopoly  of  the  Dutch  fur  trade  in  America. 
This  same  year  the  company  built  Fort  Netherland,  on  the 


XX  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

site  now  occupied  by  the  Custom  House.  In  1821,  this 
company  was  succeeded  by  the  West  India  Trading  Company, 
which  received  a  charter  from  the  States-General  of  Holland 
giving  wide  authority  over  this  region,  and  soon  began  active 
colonization  and  trading. 

This  new  company  chose  the  south  end  of  Manhattan 
Island  for  the  seat  of  government,  and  for  a  trans- Atlantic 
shipping  station.  In  1626,  Peter  Minuit,  Third  director- 
general,  came  over  with  two  ship  loads  of  immigrants.  He 
purchased  the  entire  Island  of  Manhattan  from  the  Indians 
in  exchange  for  goods  worth  about  60  guilders  ($24.00)  ; 
and  he  replaced  Fort  Manhattan  by  the  more  substantial 
structure  known  as  Fort  Amsterdam.  At  the  close  of  the 
year  the  settlement  comprised  thirty  bark-covered  dwellings, 
with  a  population  of  about  two  hundred. 

For  several  years  the  colony  was  maintained  wholly  in  the  interest 
of  the  company.  Its  inhabitants,  all  of  them  agents  or  employees, 
had  no  political  rights,  title  to  land  or  the  privilege  of  trading  with 
Europe  on  their  own  account.  When  the  company  attempted,  in  182$, 
to  encourage  agriculture  in  other  parts  of  the  province,  it  reserved 
to  itself  the  whole  Island,  a  large  portion  of  which  was  divided 
into  six  farms. 

Minuit  served  as  governor  until  1633,  when  he  was  re- 
called. Meanwhile  agricultural  colonization  went  on  rapidly. 
Grants  of  immense  tracts  of  land  along  the  Hudson  were  made 
under  the  "patroon  system"  to  men  who  started  colonies  under 
certain  conditions.  The  patroons  had  special  privileges  and 
feudial  power.  They  were  soon  quarreling  with  the  company 
and  Minuit's  recall  was  due  to  his  inability  to  deal  with  them. 

The  so-called  "Patroon  System"  was  the  outgrowth  of  the  above- 
mentioned  Charter  of  Privileges  and  Exemptions,  which  provided  that 
any  member  of  the  Company  might  have  anywhere  in  New  Nctherland 
outside  of  Manhattan  Island,  his  choice  of  a  tract  of  unoccupied  land 
of  specified  extent,  provided  he  purchased  the  same  from  the  Indians, 
and  within  four  years,  planted  upon  it  a  colony  of  fifty  persons,  upwards 
of  fifteen  years  old.  The  founder  of  such  a  colony  was  called  a 
patroon,  and  the  relations  between  him  and  the  colonists  were  similar 
to  those  under  the  feudal  system  between  a  lord  of  a  manor  and  his 
serfs.  He  was,  for  instance,  the  legal  heir  of  any  colonist  who  died 
intestate. 

In  those  early  days  the  city  lay  S.  of  the  present  Wall  st. 
The  point  of  land  was  much  •  narrower  than  at  present  the 
W.  shore  line  being  at  about  Greenwich  st.  and  the  E.  line 
about  Pearl  st.  Battery  point  then  extended  as  far  as  State 
St.  The  present  site  of  the  Custom  House  (p.  121)  was  occu- 
pied by  Fort  Amsterdam  built  1633-5.  Bowling  Green  (p.  121) 
was  the  village  common  directly  back  of  the  fort.  That  the 
sts.  sprang  up  in  a  haphazard  manner  is  clear  to  the  traveler 


HISTORY  OF  NEW  YORK  CITY  xxi 

in  this  part  of  town.  One  road  ran  to  the  shore  on  the  E., 
while  one  running  to  the  N.  is  perpetuated  in  lower  Broad- 
way. 

The  colony  was  two  years  without  a  governor  before 
Wouter  Van  Twiller  ("a  child  of  the  devil")  was  sent  over,  to 
be  removed  on  charges  in  1637  after  having  accumulated  a 
fortune. 

It  was  Van  Twiller  who  granted  to  one  of  the  colonists  a  tract 
of  land  on  Manhattan  which  later,  under  the  name  of  the  Annetje 
Jans  farm,  became  famous  because  of  the  protracted  lawsuits  between 
the  woman's  heirs  and  Trinity  parish.  It  was  also  Van  Twiller  who 
appropriated  one  of  the  richest  of  the  Manhattan  farms  to  his  own 
use,  built  himself  a  country  seat,  and  thus  formed  the  nucleus  of  the 
west   side   settlement,   known   to    this   day   as   Greenwich    Village. 

Van  Twiller's  successor  was  William  Kieft  (1638-47). 
The  Company  had  now  abandoned  its  monopoly  of  trade  in 
New  Netherlands,  and  had  given  notice  that  all  inhabitants 
of  the  United  Provinces,  and  of  friendly  countries,  might 
trade  there,  subject  to  specified  import  and  export  duties, 
and  certain  other  conditions. 

This  increased  freedom  of  trade  brought  about  dangerous  relations 
with  the  Indians;  and  Kieft's  attempt  to  exact  tribute  from  the  Algon- 
quins,  coupled  with  other  indiscretions,  resulted  in  hostilities  (1641- 
45)}  during  which  many  of  the  outlying  settlements  were  devastated. 
Out  of  this  warfare  there  arose  an  organized  movement  for  a  govern- 
ment in  which  the  colonists  should  be  represented.  Kieft  was  forced 
(1641),  to  call  an  assembly  of  the  heads  of  families,  to  choose  a  board 
which  should  decide  the  question  of  peace  or  war  with  the  Indians. 
The  assembly  first  chose  a  Board  of  Twelve  Men,  which  Kieft  arbi- 
trarily dissolved,  because  he  resented  the  reforms  that  thev  demanded. 
Later  a  Board  of  Eight  Men  was  chosen,  and  after  vainly  protestinfr 
against  his  arbitrary  measures,  sent  in  to  the  States  General  a  success- 
ful  petition   for   his  recall. 

Under  Kieft's  rule  the  first  Cattle  Fair  was  established 
at  Bowling  Green ;  and  in  1642  the  first  House  of  Enter- 
tainment was  erected  on  the  site  of  No.  73  Pearl  St.,  which 
later   became   the   first   City   Hall. 

One  result  of  a  massacre  of  120  Algonquin  Indians  (in 
1643)  was  that  a  stockade  was  built  across  the  entire  breadth 
of  the  Island,  from  the  East  to  the  North  River,  on  a  line 
now  marked  by  the  present  day  Wall  St. 

In  1647  came  Peter  Stuyvesant,  the  ablest  of  the  gover- 
nors. He  is  famous  .for  his  wooden  leg,  his  peppery  temper 
and  his  arbitrary  measures,  but  he  worked,  primarily  for 
the  good  of  the  Company.  Most  of  his  trouble  came  from  his 
interfering  with  the  men  who  were  exploiting  the  colony  for 
their  private  gain.  He  subdued  or  treated  with  unfriendly 
Indians  and  negotiated  with  the  New  England  colonies. 


xxii  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

In  March,  1664,  Charles*  II  granted  New  Netherland  to 
his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York,  and  on  Sept.  8th,  Richard 
Nicholls  sailed  into  the  harbor  and  took  possession  of  the 
city  in  the  name  of  the  Duke  of  York.  Despite  Stuyvesant's 
protests  the  people  accepted  the  English  rule  without  fighting. 
For  9  years  they  were  under  the  English;  then  for  a  year 
again  under  Dutch  rule;  then  permanently  under  English 
rule.  The  name  was  changed  to  New  York.  Major  Ed- 
mund Andros  was  the  first  governor  under  this  regime. 
From  now  until  the  Revolution,  the  colonists,  who  had 
always  fought  their  own  Dutch  governors,  quarreled  with 
the  English  ones.  When  Charles  II.  died  and  the  Duke  of 
York  became  James  II.  he  repudiated  his  former  policies  and 
treated  the  colony  unfairly.  In  1688  Jacob  Leisler,  a  German 
merchant,  seized  the  government,  encouraged  by  the  revolution 
going  on  in  England.  His  action  resulted  in  his  being  hanged 
with  his  son-in-law  Milburne,  in  1691,  on  the  spot  where  the 
World  Building  now  stands. 

In  1690  the  first  Intercolonial  Congress  was  held  in  New 
York,  including  Massachusetts,  Plymouth,  Connecticut  and 
Maryland.  Slavery  had  been  introduced  in  1625 ;  in  1712  and 
again  in  1741  supposed  insurrections  of  slaves  were  put  down 
with  horrible  cruelty.  In  the  first  instance,  twenty-one 
negroes  were  either  hanged,  burned,  or  broken  on  a  wheel. 
In  1741  (on  the  occasion  of  the  so-called  Great  Negro  Plot), 
thirteen  negroes  were  burned  at  the  stake,  eighteen  were 
hanged,  ana  seventy-one  transported. 

In  1693  the  first  printing  press  was  set  up,  1703  the 
first  free  school  was  established;  in  1725,  the  first  news- 
paper was  published;  in  1729  the  city  library  was  organ- 
ized, in  1732  a  monthly  stage  was  started  from  New  York  to 
Boston,  taking  two  weeks  each  way.  In  1735  the  freedom  of 
the  press  was  established  through  the  trial  of  Peter  Zenger, 
publisher  of  the  New  York  Weekly  Journal;  in  1756,  a  three- 
day  stage  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia. 

In  1765  a  General  Congress  of  the  colonies  met  in  the  city 
to  protest  against  the  Stamp  Act.  New  York  joined  the  in- 
surgents and  the  first  bloodshed  of  the  Revolution  occurred 
here  in  1770  (Battle  of  Golden  Hill,  p.  132),  six  weeks  before 
the  Boston  Massacre. 

When  news  of  the  Battle  of  Lexington  reached  New 
York,  a  Committee  of  Safety  assumed  control  of  the  city, 
and  Governor  Tryon  took  refuge  on  board  a  British  man- 
of-war.  On  July  8th,  1776,  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
was  for  the  first  time  publicly  read,  in  the  Common,  now 
City  Hall  Park;  and  the  next  day  the  equestrian  statue  of 


HISTORY  OF  NEW  YORK  CITY  xxiii 

George  III.   in   Bowling   Green   was  pulled  down   from  its 
pedestal  (p.  121). 

The  Battle  of  Long  Island  took  place  (p.  354),  Aug.  27, 
1776,  when  the  Americans  were  defeated  and  retreated  to 
Manhattan  under  cover  of  a  heavy  fog  after  losing  a 
thousand  men.  Following  this  battle,  New  York  City  was 
evacuated  by  the  Americans  on  Sept.  4th,  and  occupied  the 
following  day  by  the  British,  who  held^  it  until  Nov.  25,  1783 
(Evacuation  Day).  On  Sept.  i6th,  1776,  occurred  the  Battle 
of  Harlem  Heights  (p.  255),  the  only  American  victory  in 
New  York  City.  Washington  then  withdrew  his  army  to 
White  Plains  and  Fort  Washington  (p.  355)  surrendered  to 
General  Howe  Nov.  16,  1776.  This  was  preliminary  to 
Washington's  flight  through  New  Jersey  and  his  subsequent 
brilliant  victory  at  Trenton,  the  same  year.  New  York  was 
the  British  headquarters  for  seven  years  (Fort  George,  p.  355). 

The  evacuation  of  New  York,  November  25th,  1783' 
marked  the  close  of  the  war.  The  final  remnant  of  the  British 
army  sailed  for  home  from  Staten  Island  and  Long  Island  on 
that  day.  On  December  4th,  in  the  Long  Room  at  Fraunces 
Tavern  (p.  123),  Washington  took  leave  of  his  officers  in  a 
touching  scene,  saying,  "I  now  take  leave  of  you.  May  your 
later  days  be  as  prosperous  and  happy  as  your  former  ones 
have  been  glorious,"  then  leaving  for  Annapolis  to  resign  his 
Commission  as  General. 

During  the  years  1785-90  Congress  met  in  New  York,  in 
the  old  Federal  Hall,  on  Wall  st.,  where  the  Sub-treasury 
Building  now-  stands.  Here,  on  April  30th,  1789,  George 
Washington   was   inaugurated   as   first  president. 

In  1807,  Robert  Fulton's  first  steamboat,  the  Clermont, 
was  tried  out  on  the  Hudson  River,  and  began  running 
regularly  between  New  York  and  Albany;  in  1812  a  steam 
ferry  to  Long  Island  was  established;  and  in  1818  a  line  of 
Sound  Steamers  was  started.  The  city  took  part  in  the 
war  of  1812.  In  1825  the  Erie  canal  was  opened.  Attacks 
of  cholera  devastated  the  city  in  1832,  '34  and  '49.  The  GreaJ 
Fire  occurred  in  1835,  which  destroyed  the  East  Side  below 
Wall  St.  it  had  the  direct  effect  of  greatly  hastening  the 
work  upon  the  Croton  Aqueduct,  which  was  completed 
in  1842.  From  1836  to  1846  the  "anti-rent  troubles"  occurred 
from  farmers  who  refused  to  pay  rent  to  the  descendants  of 
the  patroons.     Financial  panics  occurred  in  1837,  '57  and  '73. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  in  1861,  Fernando 
Wood,  then  Mayor  of  New  York,  proclaimed  Secession  "a 
fixed  fact,"  and  proposed  that  an  independent  commonwealth 


xxiv  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

be  formed  to  be  known  as  "Tri-Insula,"  comprising 
Manhattan,  Staten  and  Long  Islands.  The  city,  however, 
remained  loyal  to  the  Federal  side  and  furnished 
more  than  its  share  of  soldiers  and  bore  a  proportionate 
share  of  the  expense.  When  drafting  was  resorted  to 
in  1863,  however,  draft  riots  incited  by  the  riff-raff  of 
the  city  occurred,  involving  the  loss  of  a  thousand  lives 
Another  riot  took  place  in  1871  when  the  Orange  lodges  tried 
to  parade  in  defiance  of  the  Irish  Catholics. 

The  political  history  of  the  city  has  been  closely  involved 
with  that  of  the  state  and  both  have  been  at  times  dis- 
creditable. Up  to  1834  the  mayor  was  appointed.  After  uni- 
versal men's  suffrage  was  granted  in  1834  the  mayor  was 
electfed  and  in  1846  the  judiciary  became  elective.  The  first 
political  parties  were  the  Democratic  and  the  Federal,  the  lat- 
ter succeeded  by  the  Whigs  who  were  in  turn  replaced  by  the 
Republicans.  The  Democratic  party  is  frequently  referred  to 
as  Tammany  Hall  (p.  218).  This  society  was  originally 
formed  as  a  benevolent  society  and  thus  gained  a  hold  upon 
the  people  which  it  has  never  lost.  The  name  is  a  corruption 
of  Tamenund,  an  Indian  seer  of  whom  Cooper  wrote  in  "The 
Last  of  the  Mohicans."  The  society  uses  an  Indian  ritual. 
Although  city  political  parties  are  divided  along  the  same 
general  lines  as  national  ones,  they  are  frequently  influenced 
by  local  issues  and  "fusion"  parties  are  formed  for  the  time 
being.  The  most  famous  of  the  corrupt  governments  was  the 
"Tweed  Ring,"  organized  in  1863  of  democrats  and  some 
republicans  under  the  leadership  of  William  Tweed. »  By  1869 
every  department  of  state  and  city  government  was  in  their 
hands.  Their  most  infamous  piece  of  plundering  occurred  in 
connection  with  the  city  Court  House  (p.  144)  when  a  mil- 
lion dollars  is  said  to  have  been  diverted  to  Tweed  alone.  In 
1871  the  Ring  was  defeated  and  some  of  its  members  prose- 
cuted.   Tweed  died  in  prison. 

On  May  24th,  1883,  Brooklyn  Bridge  (p.  iii),  the  first 
of  the  great  bridges  connecting  New  York  and  Brooklyn, 
was  formally  opened.  In  1886,  Bartholdi's  Statue  of  Liberty 
(p.  105)  was  unveiled.  The  Reception  to  Admiral  Dewey 
took  place  in  1899;  and  the  Hudson-Fulton  Celebration 
in  1909. 

In  1897  a  constitution  uniting  the  five  boroughs  into  Great- 
er New  York  was  signed,  going  into  effect  the  following  year. 

The  Population  of  New  York  increased  slowly  for  the  first 
century.  In  1650  it  had  only  1000  inhabitants.  At  the  time  of 
the  Revolution  it  had  22,000  and  was  smaller  than  Boston  or 


PUBLIC  ADMINISTRATION  OF  N.  Y.  CITY    xxv 

Philadelphia.  It  reached  100,000  in  181 5.  Jan.  i,  1914,  by  the 
Board  of  Health  estimate,  Greater  New  York  had  a  popula- 
tion of  5,583,871.  The  inhabitants  ^re  divided  among  the 
boroughs  as  follows:  Manhattan  2,538,606;  Bronx  641,980; 
Brooklyn  1,916,655;  Queens  387,444;  Richmond  99,186.  In 
1910  the  nativity  of  the  population  was:  native  white  57.5% 
foreign  white  40.4% ;  negro  1.9% ;  Indians,  Chinese,  Japanese, 
etc.,  1%.  The  foreign-born  are  in  order  of  number,  from  Rus- 
sia, Italy,  Germany,  Ireland,  Austria,  England,  and  Hungary. 
The  death  rate  for  191 1  was  15.2  to  the  1,000.  The  long  nar- 
row shape  of  Manhattan  has  given  rise  to  serious  congestion 
problems.  One-sixth  of  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  live  be- 
low 14th  St.  on  1-82  of  the  city  area.  The  new  subway  system 
(p.  31)   is  expected  somewhat  to  relieve  this  evil. 

III.  The  Public  Administration  of  the  City 

The  first  charter  for  Greater  New  York,  uniting  the  five 
boroughs,  was  obtaineG*  in  1898  and  amended  1901  the 
amendment  going  into  effect  in  1902.  The  Mayor,  the  Comp- 
troller, and  the  President  of  the  Board  of  Aldermen  are 
elected  by  a  plurality  vote  of  voters  of  the  city.  The  mayor 
appoints  the  heads  of  all  the  departments  except  the  depart- 
ment of  finance,  of  which  the  comptroller  is  chief.  He  ap- 
points, but  cannot  remove  members  of.  the  Board  of  Educa- 
tion, Trustees  of  City  College  (p.  344),  Trustees  of  Bellevue 
and  Allied  Hospitals  (p.  225),  Police  Magistrates,  Judges 
of  the  Court  of  Special  Sessions,  and  some  other  officers. 

The  chief  legislative  body  is  the  Board  of  Aldermen,  one  member 
from  each  of  the  73  aldermanic  districts  of  the  city  (Manhattan  37, 
Brooklyn  22,  Bronx  7.  Queens  4,  Richmond  3).  The  ordinances  or 
resolutions  passed  by  tnis  body  must  be  signed  or  vetoed  by  the  mayor 
within  ten  days.  A  2-3  vote  of  all  the  members  can  pass  an  ordinance 
or  resolution  over  the  mayor's  veto,  unless  it  involves  a  question  of 
finance  in  which  case  it  takes  a  4-5  vote,  or  unless  it  is  the  grant  of  a 
franchise  in  which  case  the  mavor's  veto  is  Anal.  Aldermen  make, 
amend,  or  repeal  all  police,  park,  fire,  and  building  regulations  and 
ordinances.  They  have  the  power  to  reduce  the  budget.  The  salary 
of  each  is  $1,000  a  year.  The  city  Clerk  appointed  by  the  board  holds 
ofKce  for  six  years  at  $7,000  a  year. 

• 

The  Board  of  Estimate  and  Apportionment  is  composed  of  the 
Mayor  (with  3  votes)  the  Comptroller  (with  3  votes)  the  President  of 
*  the  Board  of  Aldermen  (with  3  votes)  and  the  5  Borough  Presidents 
with  a  total  of '7  votes  (Manhattan  and  Brooklyn  having  2  each).  The 
board  by  the  adoption  of  the  yearly  budget^  determines  annually  the 
amount  of  money  to  be  expended   by  each  city  department. 

The  five  Borough  Presidents  receiving  in  Manhattan,  Brooklyn  and 
the  Bronx  $7500  and  in  Queens  and  Richmond  $5000,  have  charge  of 
street,  construction  and  the  oversight  of  erection  and  alterations  of  all 

Srivate  buildings  in  their  boroughs.     Each  appoints  a  Superintendent  of 
iuildings  to  whom  are  submitted  all  building  plans.     The  Building  Code 


xxvi  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

fixes  the  percentage  of  the  lot  which  may  be  covered  by  the  structure, 
height,  foundation,  fire  escapes,  elevators,  etc.,  etc.  (See  Tenement 
House  Dept.   p.  xxix). 

The  Finance  Department,  with  the  Comptroller  as  a  head,  is  divid- 
ed into  five  bureaus  for  the  control  of  the  city's  finances.  The  Comp- 
troller appoints  all  the  heads  except  the  City  Chamberlain  who  is  the 
chief  of  the  bureau  that  pays  out  the  city  money.  He  is  appointed  by 
the  mayor  at  a  salary  of  $12,000. 

The  Law  Department,  with  the  Corporation  Counsel  at  its  head, 
attends  to  the  city's  law  business  and  advises  the  mayor  and  board 
of  aldermen. 

The  Police  Department  protects  life  and  property.  The  Police 
Commissioner  at  the  head  has  entire  control  over  the  police  department. 
He  appoints  deputy  commissioners.  Under  the  charter  he  was  allowed 
6,382  members  in  the  police  force  but  a  legislative  amendment  in  1904 
gave  him  power  to  appoint  more  at  need.  The  force  now  numbers 
10,6^9  members.  Appointments  and  promotions  are  according  to  civil 
service  regulations.  Citizens  are  eligible  to  appointment  who  have  been 
resident  in  the  state  a  year,  have  never  been  convicted  of  felony,  and 
can  read  and  write  English.  Patrolmen  start  at  a  salary  of  $800  which 
increases  to  $1,400.  For  the  first  6  months  they  are  on  probation.  A 
policeman  is  entitled  to  a  pension  after  25  years  service  if  he  has  reached 
the  age  of  55,  and  under  certain  conditions^  earlier.  In  case  of  his  death 
his  widow  and  orphans  under  18  are  pensioned.  The  fund  is  made  up 
of  2%  of  the  monthly  salaries,  gifts,  etc.  The  city  is  divided  into  89 
precincts  and  7  sub-precincts,  i  bridge  precinct,  and  2  harbor  pre- 
cincts. 

At  Police  Headquarters,  240  Center  st.  is  the  "Rogues*  Gallery" 
with  the  Bertillon  measurements,  photographs  and  descriptions  of 
criminals,  finger  prints,  and  criminal  records,  under  the  Bureau  of 
Criminal  Identification.  The  Traffic  Squad  regulates  teaming,  motoring, 
etc.  in  congested  districts,  the  Bridge  Squad  has  charge  of  bridges  and 
their  approaches,  and  the  Harbor  Squad  enforces'  law  and  rescues 
drowning  persons  in  the  city  waters.  The  Boiler  Squad  oversees  all 
steam  boilers  (not  heating  nor  locomotive)  in  the  city. 

In  1912  the  department  issued  33,061  summonses  and  made  170,- 
37S  arrests.  The  department  has  its  own  detectives  usually  referred 
to  as  "plain-clothes  men."  The  best  known  private  detective  agencies 
are  the  William  J.  Bums  International  Detective  Agency,  Inc.,  with 
headquarters  in  the  Woolworth  Building  (p.  138)  and  the  Pinkerton 
Detective  Agency  at  92  Liberty  st. 

In  the  Fire  Department  the  Fire  Commissioner  has  under  him  a 
force  of  about  4>400  men  with  some  2,800  additional  volunteer  firemen 
in  Queens  and  Kichmond.  A  fireman  starts  at  $1,000  a  year,  which 
increases  to  $iy^oo.  After  20  years  service  he  is  entitled  to  a  half -pay 
pension.  He  is  also  pensioned  for  injury  received  in  performance  of 
duty.  Horses  are  being  replaced  by  motors  and  instruction  in  driving 
motors  is  given  as  well  as  instruction  in  fire-fighting.  The  High  Pres- 
sure Water  System  consists  of  separate  mains,  hydrants  and  pumping 
stations.  (See  Dept.  of  Water  Supply  p.  xxvii).  The  Bureau  of  Fire 
Prevention  supervises  combustibles,  automatic  alarms,  sprinkling  sys- 
tems, etc.,  and  investigates  the  origin  of  fires.  The  apparatus  is 
distributed  thus:  Manhattan  and  Bronx,  85  engines,  41  hook  and  ladder 
companies,  6  fire  boats,  2  floating  engines,  3  water  towers,  and  2 
searchlight  engines;  Brooklyn  and  Queens,  69  engines,  29  hook  and  lad- 
der companies,  2  fire  boats^  and  7  hose  companies;  Richmond,  9  engines, 
5  hook  and  ladder  companies,  and  i  hose  company. 


PUBLIC  ADMINISTRATION  OF  N.  Y.  CITY     xxvii 

The  Selvage  Corps  of  Greater  New  York  are  owned  and  maintained 
by  the  insurance  companies  of  the  city  for  the  purpose  of  protecting 
life  and  property  at  and  after  fires.  The  or^nization  in  Manhattan  is 
called  the  New  York  Board  of  Fire  Underwriters,  that  in  Brooklyn,  the 
Fire  Insurance  Salvage  Corps  of  Brooklyn.  Both  are  equippra  with 
fire  alarms  and.  other  apparatus  for  co-operating  with  the  nremen  in 
extinguishing  fire.     They  nave  a  total  force  of  240  men. 

The  Department  of  Water  Supply,  Gas  and  Electricity  supplies 
wkter  to  the  city  and  supervises  the  supplying  of  gas  and  electricity  by 
private  companies.  The  77,000  street  lamps  necessitate  an  annual  ex> 
penditure  of  $5,000,000.  The  department  inq>ects  the  liRhting  of 
theatres  and  the  electric  street  signs.  The  Board  of  Water  Supply  con- 
sists of  three  commissioners:  the  construction  of  the  city  water-works  is 
under  their  jurisdiction. 

Greater  New  York  consumes  each  day  about  500,000,000  gal.  of 
water;  about  100  gal.  per  person.  The  supply  before  the  completion 
of  the  Catskill  Aqueduct  is  obtained  as  follows:  In  Manhattan  and  the 
Bronx  it  comes  from  the  Croton  watershed  (area  360  sq.  m.),  passing 
through  30  miles  of  masonry  conduit  to  reservoirs  in  the  boroughs.  The 
Old  Croton  Aqueduct,  completed  in  1842,  crosses  the  Harlem  River  at 
High  Bridge  (p.  352)  and  has  a  capacity  of  about  85,000,000  gal.  a 
day.  The  jMew  Croton  Aqueduct,  constructed  1883-1 890,  is  an  under- 
ground tunnel  and  drops  under  the  Harlem  river  at  a  depth  of  300  ft. 
It  has  a  capacity  of  about  295,000,000  sal.  a  day,  and  its  construction 
cost  about  $20,000,000.  The  two  boroughs  receive  also  a  smaller  amount 
from  the  Bronx  and  Bryan  watersheds  (area  22  sq.  m.)  Brooklyn, 
Queens,  and  Richmond  have  received  their  water  chiefly  from  wells  by 
public  and  private  pumping  plants.  The  Croton  system  delivers  water 
under  a  hydraulic  head  at  low  pressure.  High  Pressure  Fire  Service 
System  water  is  available  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  in  Brooklyn  busi- 
ness section,  and  on  Coney  Island.  Pressure  is  obtained  from  pumps.  At 
need,  salt  witter  can  be  turned  into  the  mains.  This  system  has  xo8 
miles  of  mains,  2,372  four-nozxle  hydrants,  and  315  telephones  con- 
nected with  the  pumping  stations,  by  means  of  which  the  stations  can 
be  notified  to  send  extra  pressure  to  the  neighborhood  of  the  fire. 

The  Catskill  Mountain  System  now  being  installed  receives  its 
water  from  the  Esopus  Watershed  (area  2^5  sq.  m.).  Later  on  the 
Schoharie  (area  228  sq.  m.)  and  the  C^itskill  Creek  (area  163  sq.  m.) 
watersheds  will  be  developed.  The  Ashokan  Reservoir,  formed  by  ouild- 
ing  the  Olive  Bridge  Dam  on  Esopus  Creek  about  12  m.  from  Kingston, 
has  a  water  surface  of  12.8  sq.  m.,  and  an  average  depth  of  50  ft. 
Filled,  it  will  be  capable  of  holding  enough  water  to  last  the  city  335 
days  at  the  present  rate  of  consumption.  This  reservoir  is  for  collecting 
or  impounding  the  water;  the  Kensico  is  for  storing  the  water:  the 
Hill  view  -  in  Yonkers.  for  equalizing  and  distributing,  and  the  Silver 
Lake,  in  Staten  Island,  for  distributing.  The  Catskill  Aqueduct  from 
Ashokan  Reservoir  to  the  City  Line  is  92  m.  long;  55  m.  are  "cut  and 
cover,"  that  is,  built  on  the  surface  or  in  open  excavations,  in  horse- 
shoe shape,  resting  on  the  flat  side,  17  ft  high  and  17  ft.  6  in.  wide. 
31  m.  are  tunnel  from  17  to  14  ft.  6  in  in  diameter.  6  m.  are  steel 
pipes.  The  aqueduct  runs  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Hudson  to  Storm 
King,  7  m.  above  West  Point,  drops  in  a  tunnel  under  the  Hudson, 
cut  through  solid  rock,  1,100  beneatti  the  surface  of  the  river,  coming 
up  at  Breakneck  Mountain,  proceeding  to  Kensico  Reservoir  4  m.  N.  of 
White  Plains,  with  a  capacity  of  29,000,000,000  gal.,  i^  mo.  supply. 
The  next  reservoir  is  at  Hill  View,  with  a  capacity  of  900,000,000 
gal.  The  tunnel  under  the  City  js  circular,  15  ft.  in  diameter,  de- 
creasing to  II  ft.,  cut  in  solid  rock  from  200  to  750  ft.  deep,  below 
all  subways  and  foundations.  Every  4,000  ft.  connection  is  made  with 
the  present  distributing  system,  with  controlling  valves  to  equalize  the 
pressure.      No   new  distributing  system   will   be  necessary.     The   water 


xxviii  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

goes  on  under  the  East  River  N.  of  Manhattan  Bridge  to  Brooklyn,  on 
to  Queens  and  under  the  Narrows  (in  cast  iron  pipes;  to  Staten  Island; 
here,  in  Silver  Lake  Reservoir  it  is  225  ft.  above  sea  level.  The  entire 
cost,    including   the   three    watersheds    will    be    $176,000,000. 

In  the  Department  of  Street  Cleaning,  the  Commissioner  has  charge 
of  the  cleaning  of  the  streets  and  the  removal  of  rubbish,  garbage  and 
ashes  in  Manhattan,  the  Bronx  and  Brooklyn.  Dead  animals  are 
removed  by  the  Department  of  Health.  The  city  employs  about  3,000 
sweepers,  popularly  known  as  "White  Wings"  from  their  white  uni- 
forms, to  clean  the  streets.  About  1,800  drivers  Collect  the  refuse  which 
is  disposed  of  by  contract.  The  garbage  is  turned  into  fertilizer  and 
grease  on  Barren  Island  in  Jamaica  Bay  (p.  104).  The  ashes  and 
rubbish  are  used  in  fillinj;  in  land,  Riker's  Island  in  Lons_Island  Sound 
being[  the  present  depositing  place.  About  65  A.  of  land  nave  been  thus 
reclaimed. 

The  Department  of  Bridges,  with  a  Commissioner  at  its  head,  has 
charge  of  those  bridges  which  are  wholly  in  the  city,  except  those  in 
parks.  Those  having  one  terminus  only  on  city  land  are  under  the 
charge  of  the  Borough  Presidents. 

The  Department  of  Parks  differs  from  the  other  departments  in  hav- 
ing four  Commissioners,  one  of  whom  the  mayor  appoints  as  President. 
Manhattan  and  Richmond  share  a  Commissioner.  The  other  three 
boroughs  have  each  their  own.  Public  Recreation,  Baths^  and  Comfort 
Stations  as  well  as  the  Parks  themselves  are  under  this  department. 
The  combined  park  areas  equal  7,223  A.;  with  an  assessed  value  of 
$489,989,028.     The  assessed  value  of  the  parkways  is   $11,600,160. 

The  Commissioner  of  the  Department  of  Docks  and  Ferries 
controls  the  waterfront  belonging  to  the  city.  (Wharfage  of  the  port 
described  under  Commerce  p.  xxxi).  The  city  has  acquired  about 
18%  of  the  water  front  and  has  built  260  piers  and  between  8  and  9 
miles  of  bulkhead.  The  Department  is  working  on  extensive  plans  for 
port  development. 

The  Department  of  Charities,  with  a  Commissioner  at  its  head,  has 
charge  of  all  city  charitable  institutions  except  those  under  the  Board 
of  Health  and  Bellevue  and  Allied  Hospitals.  It  gives  institutional  re- 
lief but  no  money  nor  home  supplies.  Each  year  the  city  gives  in  ad-  ,, 
dition  some  four  million  dollars  to  religious  and  privately  managed 
hospitals  and  asylums  that  receive  the  city^s  poor.  (Application  for  aid 
for  destitute  children  is  made  at  the  Children's  Bureau,  124  E.  59th  St.; 
for  destitute  adults  over  16,  at  the  Bureau  of  Dependent  Adults  at  the 
foot  of  £.  26th  St.)  The  Children's  Hospitals  and  Feeble-minded  Schools 
are  on  Randall's  Island  (p.  109).  Hospitals  for  adults  are  the 
Metropolitan  and  City  Hospitals  on  Blackwell's  Island  (p.  no), 
King's  County  Hospital,  Coney  Island  Hospital,  and  the  Cumberland 
Street  Hospital, 

Destitute  people  are  hoysed  in  the  New  York  City  Home  for 
the  Aged  and  Infirm  with  one  branch  on  Blackwell's  Island  and 
another  in  Brooklyn.  The  Municipal  Lodging  House,  432  E.  25th, 
has  room  for  a  thousand  men  and  women.-  One  applicant  may  receive 
bed  and  breakfast  not  oftener  than  three  times  a  month.  On  Staten 
Island  is  the  New  York  City  Farm  Colony  in  West  New  Brighton,  for 
semi-able-bodied  paupers.  The  largest  private  charities  are  the  Charity 
Organisation  Society  at  105  E.  22d  St.,  The  Society  for  the  Improve- 
ment of  the  Condition  of  the  Poor  at  105  E.  22d  st.,  and  the  United 
Hebrew  Charities,  356  2d  ave.  Practically  all  the  hospitals  have  free 
wards  and  dispensaries.  (For  further  information  regarding  charitable 
and  semi-charitable  institutions  see  p.  xxxiii.) 

The  Department  of  Corrections,  with  a  Commissioner  at  the  head, 
supervises  tne  Workhouse  and  the  ^Penitentiary  on  Blackwell's  Island 
(p.    no),    the    Tombs    (p.     147)1    the    Brooklyn    City    Prison,    and    10 


PUBLIC  ADMINISTRATION  OF  N.  Y.  CITY     xxix 

District  Prisons,  and  the  Hart's  Island  Reformatory.  On  December  la, 
1 9 12,  these  institutions  contained  4,565  prisoners,  725  of  whom  were 
women.  The  Brooklyn  Disciplinary  Training  School  for  Boys  contains 
abottt   200    juvenile   delinquents   between    14   and    17    years   of   age. 

The  Department  of  Health  is  governed  by  a  Board  made  up  of  the 
Commissioner  of  Health,  the  Police  Commissioner,  and  the  Healtn  Officer 
of  the  Port.  It  has  headquarters  at  Center  and  Walker  sts.  with  branch 
offices  in  the  four  other  boroughs.  The  following  hospitals  are  under 
its  charge:  Reception  Hospital,  ft.  of  i6th  st.  for  temporary  care  of 
patients  awaiting  transfer  to  other  dept.  hospitals;  the  Willard  Parker 
Hospital,  ft.  of  £.  i6th  st.  for  adults  and  children  sick  with  diptheria; 
the  Scarlet  Fever  Hospital,  ft.  of  £.  i6th  St.,  for  adults  and  children 
sick  with  scarlet  fever;  the  Riverside.  Hospital,  North  Brother  Island, 
for  advanced  cases  of  tuberculosis;  Kingston  Avenue  Hospital,  Fenimore 
St.  and  Kingston  ave.,  Brooklyn,  for  contagious  diseases  New  York 
City  Municipal  Sanatorium,  Otisville,  N.  Y.,  for  tuberculosis.  (For 
other  hospitals  see  p.   88.) 

Under  the  Division  of  Child  Hygiene  arc  grouped  all  activities  re- 
lating to  the  health  of  children  from  birth  to  the  age  of  16,  including  the 
supervision  of  the  practise  of  mid  wives;  the  care  of  babies  and  the  pre- 
vention of  infant  mortality  (55  milk  stations,  doctors  and  nurses  in 
daily  attendance) ;  the  supervision  of  foundlings;  the  sanitary  super- 
vision of  day  nurseries  and  institutions  for  dependent  children;  medical 
inspection  and  examination  of  school  children,  issuance  of  employment 
certificates  and  a  staif  of  164  medical  inspectors  and  263  trained  nurses- 
As  a  result  of  these  activities  among  infants  infant  mortality  has  de- 
creased from  181  deaths  per  1000  births,  to  105  deaths,  in  the  last  10 
years.  This  is  the  lowest  infant  death  rate  ever  reported  in  the  city. 
Visiting  nurses  are  assigned  to  those  districts  having  the  largest  num- 
bers of  babies^  in  the  proportion  of  one  nurse  to  150  babies.  She  visits 
in  the  homes  and  instructs  the  mothers. 

Thirteen  tuberculosis  clinics  have  assisted '  in  lowering  the  annual 
number  of  new  tubercular  cases  to  22,752  in  1912.  The  department 
be^an  in  191 1  an  extensive  campaign  against  venereal  diseases.  The 
Dxvision  of  Food  Inspection  condemns  bad  food  for  sale  in  the  city. 
Three  Morgues  are  maintained,  the  one  at  the  foot  of  26th  st.  receiving 
about  three  thousand  bodies  a  year.  Paupers  are  buried  on  Hart's 
Island   (p.   108). 

The  Tenement  House  Department,  created  in  1903,  under  the 
leadership  of  a  Commissioner,  has  supervision  of  the  construction, 
alteration  and  condemnation  of  tenement  houses.  Although  we  employ 
the  word  "tenement"  to  designate  the  dwellings  of  the  poor,  it  has  in 
law  a  wider  significance.  Any  house  containing  three  or  more 
families  who  do  tneir  cooking  on  the  premises  is  classed  as  a  tenement. 
The  city  had  on  April  ist,  I9i3>  919,269  apartments  in  tenements, 
housing  about  3,750,000  people.  The  number  01  rooms  varied  from  one 
to  30,  the  largest  number  (304,283)  having  4  rooms.  Plans  for  apart- 
ment houses  must  be  approvea  by  the  dept.  before  being  submitted  to 
the  Superintendent  of  Buildings  in  the  Borough. 

The  Department  of  Education,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Board 
of  Education,  consists  of  46  members  appointed  by  the  mayor  for 
five  year  terms,  (Manhattan,  22\  Brooklyn,  14:  Bronx,  4;  Queens,  4; 
Richmond,  2).  All  other  appointments  in  the  department  are  made  by 
the  board.  The  Board  of  Superintendents  consists  of  the  Superintendent 
of  Schools  and  8  Associate  Superintendents ;  they  recommend  to  the 
board  the  appointments,  promotions  and  transference  of  teachers,  the 
courses  of  study,  and  purcnase  of  supplies.  26  District  Superintencunts, 
appointed  for  six  years,  observe  tne  work  of  the  teachers.  The 
Board  of  Examiners,  appointed  for  6  years,  gives  the  teachers'  examina- 
tions; (5ther  six-year  appointments  are:  Supervisor  of  Free  Lectures, 
Supt.   of  School  Buildings,  Supt.   of  Supplies.     The  elementary  schools 


XXX  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

number  503.  Manhattan  contains  160;  Bronx.  50;  Brooklyn,  173; 
Queens,  86:  Richmond,  34.  There  are  23  High  Schools,  3  Training 
schools,  2  Vocational  Schools;  3  Truant  Schools.  The  total  number  in 
the  elementary  schools  is  630,658;  in  the  High  Schools,  44,278. 
Beginning  teachers  are  put  on  probation  for  three  years;  after  that  they 
can  be  removed  only  on  charges.  In  191 1  the  Equal  Pay  Act  by 
which  salaries  were  determined  by  grade  and  not  by  sex,  was  passed 
by  the  legislature.  Salaries  in  the  elementary  schools  start  at  $720  and 
rise  to  $1500.  In  19 14  the  school  appropriation  was  $38,203^406.92. 
Of  this,  I3 1, 485,957* 1 7  was  for  teachers'  salaries.  New  York  City  was 
the  first  in  this  country  to  experiment  in  the  education  of  mentally  de- 
fective children,  and  has  now  146  special  classes.  Special  classes  are 
held  for  foreign  children;  also  "rapid  progress"  classes  for  those  in  ad- 
vance of  their  grade;  and  'Vorking-papeP'  classes  for  those  who  must 
have  extra  help  to  be  entitled  to  working-papers.  Many  of  the  build- 
ings are  used  for  recreation  centers  evening^s.  Summer  schools  and 
playgrounds  are  open  during  the  summer  vacation.  All  schools  are  open 
to  visitors.  Information  can  be  obtained  from  the  ofiice  of  the  Boarcl  of 
Education,  500  Park  ave. 

The  rates  per  i.ooo  inhabitants  in  New  York  Citf  for  19x2  were: 
marriages,  9.99;  births,  26.22;  deaths,  14.11. 

The  number  of  city  employees  in  January,  191 3i  was  82,0x5.  In 
addition,  some  15,000  men  are  temporarily  employed  -during  the  year 
in  mow  removal,  election  supervision,  etc. 

Finance.  The  assessed  value  of  all  taxable  property 
in  Greater  New  York,  191 5,  was  $8,460,815,992.  The  Real 
Estate  was  valued  at  $8,108,764,237,  and  the  Personal  Prop- 
erty at  $352,051,755,  the  latter  being  notoriously  a  greatly  under- 
estimated figure.  The  valuations  were  divided  among  the 
boroughs  as  follows:  Manhattan,  R.  E.,  $Si  145*802495;  P.P., 
$292,349,590;  Bronx,  R.  E.,  $677,126,644;  P.  P.,  $6,804,800; 
Brooklyn,  R.  E.,  $1,691,912,426;  P.  P.,  $43,606,010;  Queens, 
R.  E.,  $509,519,428;  P.  P.,  $7,635,650;  Richmond,  R.  E.,  $84,- 
403,224;  P.  P.,  $1,655,650.  The  tax  rate  for  1915  was:  Man- 
hattan 1.87;  Bronx,  1.94;  Brooklyn,  1.92;  Queens,  1.95;  Rich- 
niond,  2.24.  The  gross  funded  debt  of  New  York,  Dec.  31st 
1915,  was  $1,361,483,821.28,  which  was  greater  by  $272,219,- 
850.11  than  the  debt  of  the  United  States.  The  total  budget 
of  appropriations  was  $198,989,786.52. 

The  revenues  of  New  York  are  derived  from  annual 
taxes,  assessments  for  improvements  of  property,  water 
rates,  and  miscellaneous  revenues  from  70  to  80  different 
departments.  In  1915  the  more  important  revenues  were 
as  follows:  Taxes,  $157,899,467;  Water  rates,  $12,994,316; 
Dock  rents,  $5,156,426;  Municipal  ferries  (to  39th  st.,  Brook- 
lyn, and  to  Staten  Island),  $1,077,916;  Subway  rental  (Inter- 
borough),  $5,156,426.  The  other  miscellaneous  revenues 
amounted  to  $22,852,074. 


THE  BUSINESS  OF  NEW  YORK  xxxi 

IV.    The  Business  of  New  York 

(a)  Commerce.  *  Before  the  outbreak  of  the  European  war, 
New  York  handled  somewhat  less  than  half,  or  44.73% 
of  all  the  foreign  commerce  of  the  United  States.  In  I9I3» 
the  imports  were  valued  at  $1,048,290,629  and  the  exports  at 
$9i7.935»988»  a  total  of  $1,966,32(5,017.  The  net  tonnage  of  ves- 
sels entered  was  14,464,161  and  of  vessels  cleared  14,370,619. 
The  number  of  foreign  vessels  arriving  in  New  York  was 
4441 ;  of  domestic  vessels  from  eastern  ports  2170  and  of 
domestic  vessels  from  southern  ports  2908.  The  city  Has  most 
of  the  trade  between  Europe  and  the  Great  Lakes  region,  but 
very  little  of  the  South  Atlantic  coast,  Lower  Mississippi  or 
Ohio  Vdley.  The  principal  imports  are :  rubber,  silk,  fur,  cot- 
ton, linen,  jewelry,  chemicals,  coffee,  cocoa,  tobacco,  and 
sugar. 

The  notable  changes  wrought  by  the  war  are,  first,  an 
increase  of  about  10%  in  New  York's  proportion  of  foreign 
commerce;  and  secondly,  the  enormous  increase  of  exports 
(which  have  practically  doubled),  placing  the.  city  in  the  lead 
of  all  the  ports  of  the  world.  The  latest  available  figures 
before  going  to  press  are  for  the  ten  months  ending  April 
30th,  1916.  Imports  for  these  months  at  the  port  of  New 
York  were  $933,160,398  out  of  a  total  of  $1,722,368,115, 
(54.16%)  ;  exports,  $1,828,247,724,  out  of  a  total  of  $3,394i- 
382,107  (53.57%). 

New  York  owes  its  commercial  supremacy  primarily  to 
its  harbor  facilities,  almost  entirely  a  natural  advantage,  for 
up  to  June,  191 3,  the  federal  government  had  spent  only 
$21,301,639  in  improving  and  maintaining  New  York's  chan- 
nels and  harbors,  The  city  has  a  waterfront  of  no  less  than 
578  mi.  (Manhattan,  48.2;  Richmond,  57.1 ;  Bronx,  79.8;  Queens, 
196.8;  Brooklyn  201.5)  of  which  103  mi.  is  already  fully  de- 
veloped. The  completion  of  the  Panama  Canal  and  the  pro- 
posed Intercoastal  Canal  will  increase  the  commerce  and  force 
the  further  development  of  the  water  front.  A  relatively  small 
proportion  of  wharfage  is  on  Manhattan,  where  it  is  most 
needed.  Huge  new  piers,  some  still  in  construction,  offer  a 
ipartial  solution.  Of  this  type  the  Chelsea  piers  (p.  238) 
betw.  I2th  and  23d  sts.  are  completed  and  others  are  started 
betw.  44th  and  59th  sts.  (p.  238). 

(b)  Manufacturing.  New  York  City  gained  its  industrial 
lead  over  all  other  American  cities  as  early  as  1820.  In  191 3  it 
alone  produced  one-tenth  of  all  the  manufactured  goods  made 
in  the  entire  United  States.    Its  factories  employ  more  workers 


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»--  *.  ^7 


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CHARITIES  IN  NEW  YORK  xxxiii 

given  here  may  be  obtained  by  consulting  the  "New  York 
Charities  Directory"  issued  by  the  Charity  Organization 
Society.  Visitors  to  the  various  institutions  should,  unless 
a  visiting  day  is  designated,  write  or  telephone  to  the  super- 
intendent for  an  appointment.  Permission  will  always  be 
given  to  inspect  the  institution. 

The  state  of  New  York  maintains  hospitals  and  admin- 
isters the  industrial  insurance  and  the  widows'  pensions.  The 
hospitals  are  chiefly  for  the  insane,  feeble-minded  and 
epileptic.  The  most  important  ones  are  Bloomingdale  Hospital 
for  the  Insane,  White  Plains;  Central  Islip  Hospital,  Central 
Islip,  L.  I.;  Craig  Colony  for  Epileptics,  Sonyea,  Livingston 
Co.;  Letchworth  Village,  Thiells,  Rockland  Co.;  Matteawan 
State  Hospital,  Fishkill-on-Hudson ;  Rome  State  Custodial 
Asylum,  Rome;  State  Custodial  Asylum  for  Feeble-Minded* 
Women,  Newark,  Wayne  Co.;  and  Syracuse  State  Institution 
for  Feeble-Minded  Children,  Syracuse.  Information. concern- 
ing Widows'  Pensions  may  be  obtained  at  the  Bureau  of  Child 
Welfare  in  the  basement  of  City  Hall;  concerning  Industrial 
Insurance  and  other  social  legislation,  from  the  New  York 
Association  for  Labor  Legislation,  i  Madison  Avenue. 

New  York  City  maintains  a  large  number  of  hospitals, 
grouped  under  the  name  of  Bellevue  and  Allied  Hospitals. 
Bellevue  is  at  26th  Street  and  First  Avenue.  Most  of  the 
other  hospitals  are  in  the  neighborhood  or  on  Blackwell's 
Island.  Application  for  admission  of  patients  is  made  either 
in  person  at  Bellevue,  through  a  physician,  or  through  the 
Department  of  Public  Charities.  Treatment  is  free.  Most 
of  the  hospitals  have  dispensaries.  In  case  of  serious  accident 
an  ambulance  can  be  obtained  by  a  policeman's  telephoning 
to  the  nearest  police  station.  The  Board  of  Health  maintains 
visiting  nurses. 

The  City  Almshouses  on  Blackwell's  Island;  the  City's 
Custodial  Asylum  for  Feeble-Minded  Children  on  Randall's 
Island,  and  the  Municipal  Lodging  House  at  432  East  25th 
St.,  are  under  the  supervision  of  the  Department  of  Charities, 
with  its  office  in  the  Municipal  Building. 

The  Children's  Court  in  its  beautiful  new  building  at 
137  East  22nd  St.,  is  under  the  Department  of  Corrections. 
The  Domestic  Relations  Court,  where  non-support  and  de- 
sertion cases  are  tried,  is  at  151  E.  57th  st. 

Asylums  and  Homes  for  dependent  children  supported 
by  voluntary  contributions  and  endowments  are  numerous. 
The  city  assists  in  the  support  of  some  of  the  larger  ones, 
paying  a  per  capita  amount  for  each  child  it  sends  to  them. 
Babies  are  sent  to  the  Foundling  Asylum  at  175  East  68th  st. 


xxxiv  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Older  dependent  or  incorrigible  children,  if  Catholic,  are  sent 
to  the  Catholic  Protectory,  Westchester,  New  York  City. 
Protestant  children  go  to  one  of  the  various  Protestant 
institutions.  The  New  York  Juvenile  Asylum,  city  office. 
Terminal  Bldg.,  Park  ave.  and  41st  st.,  is  one  of  the  largest 
of  these.  Its  Children's  Village  is  near  Dobbs  Ferry.  The 
Orphan  Asylum  Society  in  the  City  of  New  York  has  an 
especially  fine  orphanage  on  the  cottage  system  at  Hastings- 
on-Hudson.  The  Hebrew.  Children  are  sent  to  Hebrew 
institutions.  The  Hebrew  Sheltering  Guardian  Society,  with 
buildings  at  150th  st.  and  Broadway  and  at  507  W.  155th  st. 
in  the  city,  has  at  Pleasantville,  New  York,  a  Republic  which 
is  a  model  institution.  Visitors  interested  in  children's  insti- 
tutions should  arrange  to  inspect  this  one.  Institutions  some- 
what out  of  the  ordinary  are  the  Newsboys'  Lodging  House, 
14  New  Chambers  St.,  and  the  Home  for  Seamen's  Children 
on  Staten  Island. 

The  plan  of  placing  out  children  in  private  families  is 
becoming  yearly  more  approved.  This  work  is  done  by  the 
Board  of  Health,  by  bureaus  in  connection  with  many  of 
the  children's  institutions,  by  the  State  Charities  Aid  Associa- 
tion, and  the  Children's  Aid  Society. 

Various  relief  organizations  exist  which  differ  from 
the  foregoing  in  several  ways.  They  receive  no  support  from 
state  or  city  but  subsist  on  voluntary  contributions  and  endow- 
ments. They  have  few  hospitals  and  asylums  of  their  own, 
but  utilize  those  already  in  existence.  Their  chief  work  is  in 
distributing  charity  in  the  homes.  State  and  city  give  no 
money,  food,  or  clothes  to  needy  people.  Applicants  must 
enter  institutions  to  be  cared  for.  These  private  societies 
supplement  the  institutional  work  with  relief  in  the  homes. 
The  largest  of  these  are:  The  Charity  Organization  Society 
and  the  Association  for  Relieving  the  Condition  of  the  Poor, 
at  22nd  St.  and  Fourth  ave.  and  the  United  Hebrew  Charities 
at  356  Second  ave.    Each  of  these  has  several  district  offices. 

Other  important  organizations  are  the  Society  for  the 
Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Children,  23rd  st.  and  Fourth  ave., 
which  investigates  and  prosecutes  cases  of  improper  guardian- 
ship of  children  under  sixteen;  the  State  Charities  Aid,  22nd 
st  and  Fourth  ave.,  which  inspects  hospitals  and  secures 
improvements ;  and  the  Russell  Sage  Foundation,  22nd  st. 
and'  Lexington  ave.,  which  gives  no  relief,  but  studies  the 
causes  of  poverty.  Among  the  smaller  organizations  in  which 
the  sociological  student  will  be  interested  are  the  Day 
Nurseries  with  head  office  at  105  E.  22nd  st. ;  the  Association 
of  Housekeeping  Centres  with  model  apartments  at  226  Henry 


CHARITIES  IN  NEW  YORK  xxxv 

St.,  62  Washington  St.,  and  loi  Thompson  st. ;  the  New  York 
Diet  Kitchen  Association  with  babies*  milk  stations  scattered 
over  the  city  and  a  central  office  at  i  West  34th  st. ;  the 
People's  Institute  at  50  Madison  ave.,  which  provides  lecture 
courses  and  develops  neighborhood  centres  in  public  school 
buildings;  the  Educational  Alliance  at  East  Broadway  and 
Jefferson  st.,  a  Jewish  organization  offering  wide  variety  of 
classes  and  recreation  for  immigrants;  the  Manhattan  Trade 
School  for  girls  at  209  E.  23rd  st. ;  the  Baron  de  Hirsch  Trade 
School  for  Jewish  boys  at  222  East  64th  st. ;  the  Vacation 
Playgrounds  for  mothers,  babies,  and  children  in  summer 
and  the  evening  roof  gardens,  under  the  direction  of  the 
Board  of  Education ;  the  New  York  Association  for  the  Blind 
at  118  E.  22d  St.;  Women's  Trade  Union  League,  43  East 
22d  St.;  the  Big  Brother  Movement,  the  Big  Sisters,  and  the 
Boy  Scouts  of  America,  all  at  200  Fifth  ave. ;  the  Camp  Fire 
Girls  at  401  Fourth  ave.  Of  the  Working  Girls*  Homes, 
Varick  House  at  11  Dominick  st,  is  the  newest  and  most 
attractive. 

Social  Settlements  are  located  in  all  sections  of  the. city. 
Their  object  is  to  learn  the  conditions  and  needs  of  their 
neighborhoods  in  schools,  politics,  industry,  recreation,  edu- 
cation, and  hygiene.  These  needs  they  themselves  supply  to 
some  extent  in  classes,  clubs,  and  general  recreation  work, 
but  they  also  endeavor  to  secure  the  co-operation  of  the  pub- 
lic agencies.  Through  their  efforts  public  libraries,  public 
baths,  school  gymnasiums,  recreation  centers,  kindergartens, 
playgrounds,  etc.,  have  been  introduced  into  many  districts. 
The  information  supplied  by  them  is  of  value  in  promoting 
social  legislation  concerning  housing,  dance-hall  licensing, 
minimum  wage,  widows*  pensions,  etc.  Educated  men  and 
women  live  in  the  settlement  houses  but  they  endeavor  to 
utilize  in  the  settlement  work  the  people  living  in  the  dis- 
trict. Some  settlements  are  attadied  to  diurches  while 
others  are  sociological  rather  than  religious. 

Henry  Street  Settlement,  265  Henry  st.,  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Visiting  Nurse  System.  The  story  of  the  house 
is  told  in  Lillian  D.  Wald's  "The  House  on  Henry  Street." 
The  University  Settlement,  184  Eldridge  street,  possesses  a 
large  building  with  rooms  for  the  meetings  of  labor  unions 
and  local  organizations.  The  College  Settlement,  with  its 
main  house  at  95  Rivington  street,  supported  by  the  women's 
colleges,  was  the  pioneer  settlement.  The  Music  School 
Settlement,  53-55  East  3d  street,  provides  musical  education 
for  those  who  would  not  otherwise  be  able  to  obtain  it. 
Greenwich  House,  26  Jones   street,   is   extremely  successful 


xxxvi  RIDER'/5  NEW  YORK  CITY 

in  its  Festivals  and  community  activities.  The  Union  Set- 
tlement Association,  237  East  104th  street,  is  in  close  but 
unofficial  relation  with  the  Union  Theological  Seminary. 
Among  other  well-known  settlements  are:  Hartley  House, 
413  West  46th  street;  Hudson  Guild,  436  West  27th  street; 
Warren  Goddard  House,  246  East  34th  street ;  Richmond 
Hill  House,  28  Macdougal  street;  Christodora  House,  147 
Avenue  B;  Corning  Clark  House,  283  Rivington  street; 
Jacob  Riis  Settlement,  48  Henry  street.  In  Brookl)^!  are : 
Lincoln  Settlement,  105  Fleet  street,  working  among  negroes ; 
the  United  Neighborhood  Guild,  formerly  Asacog  House, 
176  Nassau  street;  and  Greenpoint  Neighborhood  House,  85 
Jaca  street,  Greenpoint.  Among  those  more  distinctly  mis- 
sions are:  the  Bowery  Mission,  227  The  Bowery,  where  from 
Thanksgiving  to  Easter  a  breadline  is  maintained  at  one 
o'clock  at  night ;  the  Florence  Crittenton  League,  427  W.  21st 
street,  to  aid  and  encourage  destitute  and  depraved  women 
who  wish  to  reform;  the  Chinatown  and  Bowery  Settlement, 
ID  Mott  street,  for  work  among  white  girls  living  in  China- 
town; the  McAuley  Water  Street  Mission,  316  Water  street, 
for  the  most  degraded  and  profligate  criminals  and  drunk- 
ards. 

VI.     Miscellaneous  Information  for  the  Prospective 

Visitor  in  New  York 

a.     Passports.      Customs.     Time.     Climate. 

Passports.  The  foreign  traveler  will  find  passports  not 
required.  They  are,  however,  of  occasional  convenience  in 
securing  identification  at  banks  and  post-offices,  and  may 
prevent  some  unexpected  misunderstanding. 

Customs.  All  baggage  brought  into  the  United  States 
from  other  countries  is  examined  at  the  port  of  entry.  The 
ship  officers  will  give  the  traveler  arriving  from  a  foreign 
port  information  concerning  dutiable  goods.  A  list  with  prices 
of  all  goods  purchased  outside  the  country  must  be  submitted 
to  the  customs  official.  This  is  called  "declaring."  An  official 
will  inspect  all  trunks,  hand  bags,  and  boxes.  This  inspection 
is  facilitated  if  the  traveler,  packs  the  dutiable  articles  all  in 
one  trunk  in  an  accessible  manner.  One  hundred  dollars  worth 
of  personal  effects  may  be  brought  in  free  of  duty  by  residents 
of  the  country.  Special  arrangements  are  made  for  foreign 
travelers  and  settlers.  A  resident  leaving  the  country  should 
take  the  precaution  of  registering  with  the  customs  officials 


CUSTOMS,  TIME,  CLIMATE  xxxvii 

valuable  furs  or  je.wels  which  he  takes  with  him  lest  he  be* 
charged  duty  on  them  upon  his  return.    The  customs  inspec- 
tion will  proceed  rapidly  if  the  traveler  co-operates  with  the 
officials. 

• 

Time.  New  York  time  is  5  hours  earlier  in  the  day  than 
London  time.  It  is  12  .m.  in  New  York  when  it  is  5  p.  m.  in 
London.  In  accordance  with  the  Standard  Time  System 
adopted  in  1883,  the  United  States  is  divided  into  4  sections  of 
15  degrees  longitude  each.  The  time  is  uniform  in  each  sec- 
tion, differing  betw.  each  two  adjacent  sections  by  one  hour. 
Thus  when  it  is  12  m.  in  New  York  (Eastern  Time),  it  is 
II  a.  m.  in  Chicago  (Central  Time),  10  a.  m.  in  Denver 
(Mountain  Time),  and  9  a.  m.  in  San  Francisco  (Pacific 
Time). 

CuMATE.  Judged  on  a  basis  of  mean  monthly  or  yearly 
averages,  the  climate  of  New  York  City  does  not  offer  on  the 
surface  any  very  striking  contrasts  to  that  of  the  other  prin- 
cipal metropolises.  The  temperature,  for  instance,  gives  a 
mean  average  of  30°  and  74**  Fahr.,  respectively,  for  the 
months  of  January  and  July,  and  a  mean  annual  average  of 
about  50°,  which  coincides  pretty  closely  with  London :  50.8® ; 
Paris,  50**;  Berlin,  48.2'*;  Vienna,  48.6®.  It  is  its  extremes 
and  its  sudden  capricious  variations  that  makes  the  New  York 
climate  so  trying  to  strangers.  The  recorded  maximum  and 
minimum  temperatures  are  6*'  and  100",  a  range  of  106 
degrees.  A  sudden  drop  of  15  or  20  degrees  in  a  few  hours 
is  not  a  rare  phenomenon;  and  these  extremes  and  sudden 
changes  are  further  aggravated  by  the  comparatively  high 
annual  rainfall  of  44.6  in.  (which  New  York  shares  with  tifie 
other  Atlantic  Coast  cities,  and  which  is  nearly  double  that 
of  European  cities;  compare,  on  the  one  hand:  Boston,  43.4 
in.;  Philadelphia,  41.2  in.;  Washington,  43.5  in.;  Charleston, 
52.1  in. ;  Savannah,  50.3  in. ;  and  on  the  other :  London,  25  in. ; 
Paris,  22  in.;  Berlin,  23  in.;  Vienna,  25  in.).  Furthermore, 
the  changes  of  seasons  vary  greatly  from  year  to  year;  a 
"green  Christmas**  is  not  unusual ;  a  blizzard  has  been  known 
in  the  middle  of  March,  and  a  cold  week  may  suddenly  occur 
at  the  end  of  August. 

All  things  considered,  the  visitor  who  can  choose  his  own  time 
for  coming  to  New  York  would  be  wise  to  give  autumn  the  preference. 
After  the  late  September  rains  are  over,  he  may  usually  count  upon 
a  prolonged 'period  of  fairly  settled  weather  and  clear  skies,  becoming 
gradually  more  hazy  during  the  days  of  the  late  and  mellow  "Indian 
summer.".  This  period  also  coincides  with  the  openiiig  of  the  social 
season,  so  that  the  stranger  not  only  has  good  weather  for  out-door 
sight-seeing,  but  can  include  the  opening  nights  of  the  opera  and  the 
important  plays  of  the  season. 


xxxviii  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  second  choice  of  time  is  the  late  spring,  May  and  oart  of  June. 
This  is  the  best  tim^  for  seeing  the  environs  of  New  York:  Coney 
Island  (p.  446)  and  the  numerous  other  famous  summer  playgrounds 
are  opening;  the  excursion  steamboats  up  the  Hudson  and  elsewhere 
have  begun  their  daily  trips;  and  many  delightful  trolley  rides  are 
available.  On  the  other  hand,  there  is  much  that  the  visitor .  misses 
in  the  life  of  the  city  itself;  the  opera  is  over,  the  principal  theatres 
are  closing;  social  New  York  is  leaving  for  toe  summer;  and  while 
the  surge  and  glitter  of  the  night  life  on  Broadway  never  slackens,  it 
loses  something  of  its  characteristic  zest. 

July,  with  its  scorching  heat,  and  August,  with  the  heavy  humidity 
of  the  "dog  days,"  are  decidedly  to  be  avoided,  especially  as  some  of 
the  museums  and  other  places  01  interest  are  apt  to  be  closed.  Never- 
theless, the  proportion  of  strangers  in  the  city  during  the  summer 
months  is  annually  increasing,  a  considerable  percentage  being  South- 
erners and  Spanish-Americans. 

b.    Money.    Expenses. 

Money.  For  the  benefit  of  the  foreign  traveler  it  should 
be  mentioned  that  the  money  of  the  United  States  is  on  the 
decimal  basis,  the  dollar  of  100  cents  being  the  unit.  Coins 
between  the  dollar  and  the  cent  are  the  Half  Dollar  or  Half 
(50  cents),  the  Quarter  Dollar  or  Quarter  (25  cents),  the 
Dime  (10  cents),  the  Nickel  or  Five-cent  Piece  (5  cents). 
The  word  Penny  is  a  s)monym  for  cent.  Three-cent  and  two- 
cent  pieces  were  formerly  in  circulation,  but  are  no  longer 
coined.  The  dollar,  the  half,  the  quarter,  and  the  dime  are 
silver.  The  nickel  is  nickel.  The  cent  i$  copper.  Gold  pieces 
(little  circulated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  country)  are 
minted  at  $2j^,  $5,  $10  and  $20  pieces.  Paper  money  ($i, 
.$2,  $5,  $10,  $20,  $50,  $100,  $500,  $1,000)  in  the  form  of  Gold 
Notes,  Silver  Certificates  and  National  Bank  Bills. 

Foreign  Money  can  be  exchanged  at  the  American  Ex- 
press Co.,  at  the  large  hotels,  at  banks  and  at  many  of  the 
steamship  agencies.  An  English  Pound  is  normally  eual 
to  $4.86^6-10;  I  franc  (French,  Swiss,  Belgium  coins),  19.3 
cents;  i  lira  (Italian),  19.3  cents;  i  mark  (Germany),  23.8 
cents;  i  crown  (Austrian),  20.3  cents;  i  crown  (Norwegian 
or  Swedish),  26.8  cents;  i  peseta  (Spanish),  19.3  cents;  i 
escudo  (Portuguese),  $1.05;  i  florin  (Dutch),  40.2  cents; 
I  ruble  (Russian),  51.4  cents;  i  dollar  (Canadian),  $1';  i 
dollar  (Mexican),  49  cents. 

Expenses.  There  is  probably  no  other  city  in  the  world 
where  the  possible  range  of  a  tourist's  average  daily  expenses 
touches  such  wide  extremes,  according  to  his  means  and  per- 
sonal'tastes.  It  he  requires  a  suite  of  rooms  at  one  of  the 
leading  hotels,  orders  his  meals  d  la  carte  at  high-priced 
restaurants,  goes  to  the  theatre  or  opera,  and  ends  the  evening 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION         xxxix 

at  some  midnight  cabaret,  he  will  find  no  difficulty  in  spending 
from  $25  to  $50  a  day.  On  the  other  hand,  the  traveler 
with  a  modest  credit  and  simple  habits,  who  is  willing  to 
accept  some  minor  discomforts  for  the  sake  of  prolonging 
his  visit,  can  easily  find  accommodations  in  the  less  fashionable 
neighborhoods,  at  a  cost  of  $8  a  week  and  upward.  For 
instance,  in  the  vicinity  of  Washington  Square  or  Gramercy 
Park  (semi-Bohemian  sections,  corresponding  roughly  to  the 
Quartier  Latin  in  Paris  and  the  Russell  Square  district  in 
London),  it  is  possible  to  procure  a  large  double  room  and 
private  bath  for  $8  per  week  and  upwards;  single  room,  $3 
per  week  and  upwards.  The  boarding  houses  in  these  districts 
are  less  satisfactory  ;-either  the  charges  are  disproportionately 
high  or  the  table  is  poor.  The  most  economical  way  in  which 
to  see  New  York  is  to  take  lodgings  and  go  out  for  meals 
(especially  in  the  case  of  a  comparatively  brief  stay) ;  owing 
to  tlie  long,  narrow  formation  of  Manhattan,  the  distances 
to  the  various  points  of  interest  become  a  serious  factor  in 
cost  both  of  time  and  cab  or  trolley  fares,  and  doubly  so  to 
the  traveler  who  must  return  to  his  boarding-house  for  each 
meal.  Besides,  the  restaurants  are  in  themselves  an  important 
feature  of  New  York  life;  and  the  visitor  should  plan  his 
sight-seeing  so  as  to  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  those  he  wishes 
to  patronize,  at  the  luncheon  or  dinner  hour. 

c.      Some  General  Notes  on  the  Life  and  Customs  of 

New   York 

The  first  characteristic  of  New  York  which  impresses 
the  stranger  from  abroad,  and  in  a  less  degree  from  other 
American  cities,  is  its  atmosphere  of  breathless  haste,  its 
pervading  sense  of  life  keyed  to  an  abnormal  tension.  The 
acute  discomfort  of  the  morning  and  evening  rush  hour,  when 
streets  are  gorged  with  tramping  thousands  of  toilers,  and 
every  car  is  jammed  with  close  packed  human  freight,  is 
only  one  manifestation  of  the  city's  ruling  passion.  Every- 
where and  all  the  time  the  surge  and  roar  of  traffic  goes  on, 
varying  only  in  degree;  everywhere  is  the  same  feverish 
eijergy,  the  same  impajtiei\ce  over  a  minute's  loss.  The  New 
Yorker  makes  equally  hard  work  of  his  business  and  his 
pleasures.  In  the  chief  centres  of  wealth,  the  gorgeous  shops 
of  Fifth  Avenue,  the  theatres  and  restaurants  of  Broadway, 
the  one  element  that  is  missing  is  repose.  It  seems  as  though 
the    whole    brilliant    crowd    that    frequents    these    pleasure 


xl  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

palaces  feared  if  they  paused  to  rest  they  might  fall  out  of 
step  in  the  ceaseless  *'rag-time"  of  metropolitan  life. 

One   direct  consequence  of  this   unending  hurry,  which 
the  visitor  is  quick  to  feel,  is  a  certain  brusqueness  and  lack 
of  civility  as  compared  with  other  cities.    Not  that  the  great, 
motley,    democratic    middle    class    is    deliberately    rude    to 
strangers ;  it  simply  lacks  time  for  the  little  courtesies  of  life, 
and  grudges  two  words  where  one  can  be  made  to  answer. 
A   New   York  crowd   is   habitually  good-natured,    accepting 
without    protest    much    crowding    and   jostling;    but    in    the 
hourly   rush    for   admission   to   cars   and   elevators,   women 
must  take  their  chances  along  with  the  men  and  expect  no 
special  favor,  while  the  man  who  rises  and  offers  a  woman 
his  seat  is  distinctly  an  exception  to  the  general  rule.     Con- 
sidering the  size  and  mixed  character  of  the  crowds  they 
have  to  handle,  the  guards  and  conductors  on  the  various 
city  lines  are  probably  as  civil  as  could  reasonably  b^  ex- 
pected ;  yet  their  lack  of  deference  towards  the  general  public 
is  well  summed  up  in  their  favorite  curt  injunction  to  "step 
lively.*'     En  passant,  and   regardless   of   convention,   gentle- 
men remove  their  hats  in  hotel  elevators   when  ladies  are 
present  but  not  usually  in  elevators  in  business  buildings. 

A  tourist  bent  upon  seeing  the  city's  sights  with  min- 
imum loss  of  time  must  ask  many  and  frequent  questions. 
But  he  will  find  it  to  his  advantage  to  appeal  as  far  as  pos- 
sible to  uniformed  officials,  policemen,  railway  porters,  hotel 
clerks,  etc.,  part  of  whose  business  it  is  to  impart  information. 
The  casual  stranger  met  in  the  street,  however  willing  to 
answer  questions,  is  quite  likely  not  to  have  the  required 
knowledge  (in  fact,  in  a  ^surprising  number  of  cases,  he  will 
be  found  unable  to  understand  English)  ;  for  New  Yorkers 
are  curiously  ill  informed  about  their  own  city,  and  especially 
those  features  of  it  most  likely  to  interest  the  outsider. 

Another  characteristic  of  New  York,  and  one  that  applies 
to  all  grades  of  society,  is  the  lavish  and  conspicuous  mode 
of  dress  adopted  by  New  York  women  on  the  public  streets. 
The  styles  for  street  wear  change  more  rapidly  and  more 
radically  than  other  costumes;  and  no  sooner  has  a  new 
mode  found  favor  on  Fifth  avenue  than  cheap  imitations  of 
it  make  their  appearance  on  Fourteenth  street  and  the  lower 
East  Side.  It  is  no  exaggeration  tft  say  that  to-day  the 
fashionable  women  of  New  York  venture  upon  the  streets 
clad  in  garments  which  in  brilliancy  of  hue  and  scantiness 
of  neck  and  sleeves  would  have  been  considered  ten  years 
ago  as  appropriate  only  for  afternoon  or  evening  receptions. 
The  responsibility  for  this  change  undoubtedly  rests  upon  the 


LIFE  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  NEW  YORK  xli 

dancing  fad.  Women  went  for  luncheon  to  restaurants  where 
they  expected  to  dance;  they  passed  on  to  some  thS  dansant, 
and  later  had  dinner  where  they  would  dance  again ;  and 
naturally  in  coming  and  going  they  wore  in  the  street  a 
costume  primarily  designed  for  dancing.  The  custom  adds 
much  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  passing  crowd;  but  it 
naturally  is  viewed  with  some  degree  of  surprise  by  strangers 
accustomed  to  more  sedate  street  apparel. 

Like  other  large  cities,  New  York  has  its  own  conven- 
tions as  regards  smoking  in  public.  Men  cannot  smoke  on 
any  cars  of  the  various  surface,  subway  and  elevated  roads, 
excepting  on  the  four  rear  seats  of  the  open  (summer)  sur- 
face and  Third  avenue  elevated  cars.  The  same  rule  per- 
tains to  the  rear  outside  seats  of  the  Fifth  ave.  busses. 
Furthermore,  to  smoke  or  carry  a  lighted  cigar  in  any  of 
the  subway  stations  renders  the  smoker  liable  to  arrest. 
On  the  other  hand,  smoking  is  freely  permitted  in  practically 
all  first-class  hotel  and  other  restaurants;  also  in  the  bal- 
conies of  many  vaudeville  and  moving-picture  houses.  It 
should  be  added  that  a  certain  number  of  New  York  res- 
taurants, especially  of  the  semi-bohemian  sort,  now  permit 
women  to  smoke;  and  while  the  practice  is  by  no  means  com- 
mon, and  is  not  allowed  in  the  best  restaurants,  tourists  should 
understand  that  the  presence  of  women  smoking  does  not 
imply  that  the  restaurant  in  question  lacks  respectability. 

Sunday  Observance.  While  in  theory  New  York  is  to 
a  large  extent  a  closed-up  town  on  Sundays,  yet  because  of 
its  cosmopolitan  character  and  immense  foreign  population, 
the  administration  of  the  city  has  taken  the  curious  attitude 
that  it  is  impracticable  to  enforce  the  laws  strictly.  Conse- 
quently, so  far  as  public  entertainment  is  concerned,  Sunday 
differs  from  other  days  in  kind  rather  than  degree.  It  is  an 
especially  busy  day  for  the  hotels  and  other  restaurants.  The 
regular  theatres  are  closed;  but  most  of  the  vaudeville  and 
moving-picture  houses  are  open,  doing  a  large  business  at 
advanced  prices.  The  front  entrances  of  all  saloons  are 
strictly  closed;  but  there  is  almost  always  a  "side  door" 
accessible  to  anyone  known  to  the  house.  Among  stores 
and  shops,  the  following  are  open  all  day:  drug  stores  (ex- 
cepting for  the  sale  of  stationery  and  other  side  lines)  ;  cigar 
stores ;  small  stationers  and  newspaper  dealers ;  some  candy 
stores  and  iccrcream  parlors;  some  florists.  Delicatessen 
shops  are  allowed  to  remain  open  until  10.30  a.  m.,  and  again 
from  4.30  until  7  p.  m.  Other  stores  are  required  by  law 
to  be  closed.     The  New  Yorker,  however,   who  knows  his 


xlii 


RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 


city,  can  in  case  of  emergency  buy  very  nearly  anjrthing 
that  he  needs  in  one  or  the  other  of  the  foreign  quarters. 
For  instance,  in  the  Italian  section  around  Bleecker  st.,  mar- 
kets, groceries,  hardware  shops  and  various  other  small  shops 
are  open  all  day  long. 


Rider's 

NEW  YORK  CITY 


A  Guide- Book  for  Travelers 


PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION 

I.    Arrival  in  New  York 
(a)  At  the  Railroad  Station 

All  the  larger  railroad  stations  (and  ferry  houses) 
contain  Information  Desks  where  time-tables,  information 
concerning  routes,  connections,  and  so  forth,  may  be  obtained 
free  of  charge.  Hand  luggage  and  parcels  may  be  left  in  the 
Parcel  Room  at  a  small  charge  (usually  loc.  a  day).  The 
stations  contain  every  convenience  for  the  traveler. 
The  Pay  Lavatories  are  especially  useful  to  those 
who  wish  to  change  their  costume  or  freshen  their 
appearance  after  a  journey.  Uniformed  porters  are  at 
hand  to  carry  hand  luggage  and  give  all  kinds  of  assist- 
ance. A  porter  will  accompany  a  traveler  to  the  street 
car  and  see  him  safely  started  in  the  right  direction.  A  fee 
of  from  10  cents  upward  according  to  the  service  is  ex- 
pected. The  Traveler's  Aid  Society  (office  at  238  E.  48th  st, 
telephone  323  Murray  Hill)  keeps  women  agents  wearing 
badges  in  attendance  at  the  Grand  Central  Terminal  and  at  the 
Pennsylvania  Terminal.  They  also  meet  in-coming  trans- 
atlantic steamers.  Their  duty  is  to  assist  traveling  women 
and  children.  All  their  service  is  rendered  without  charge 
or  gratuities.     Over  1500  travelers  are  helped  each  mondi. 

Railroad  tickets  should  be  purchased  at  the  regular  ticket 
office,  as  any  offered  at  reduced  rates  by  unofficial  agents 
called  "scalpers**  may  be  counterfeit  or  sold  under  illegal 
conditions.  Children  under  five  accompanied  by  an  adult 
travel  free.  Children  between  five  and  twelve  are  charged 
half  fare.  Tickets  purchased  in  advance  of  the  day  of  de- 
parture should  be  stamped  with  the  date  of  departure. 
Through  tickets  to  all  parts  of  the  country,  including  trans- 
portation of  luggage  across  cities,  can  be  purchased  at  any 
large  station.  Unused  tickets  will  be  redeemed  by  the  railroad 
under  certain  conditions.  If  stop-over  privileges  are  desired, 
the  fact  should  be  mentioned  to  the  ticket  agent  when  the 
ticket  is  purchased.  If  a  passenger  has  a  disagreement  with 
the  conductor  concerning  ticket  or  fare,  the  passenger  must 
pay  what  the  conductor  requires,  take  a  receipt  and  refer 
the  matter  to  the  General  Passenger  Agent  of  the  road.  Pull- 
man parlor  or  sleeping  car  reservations  may  be  made  ahead  of 
time  on  most  roads,  but  payment  must  be  made  24  hours  in 
advance. 

Nearly  all  the  railroads  have  City  Ticket  Offices  (p.  40) 
where  tickets  may  be  bought  and  reservations  made. 


2  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Deliver  articles  found  or  report  losses  at  the  Lost 
and  Found  Department  of  the  station  or  notify  the  General 
Passenger  Agent  of  the  road.  Baggage  should  always  be 
clearly  marked  and  tagged  with  its  destination.  It  is  a  wise 
precaution  to  note  the  number  of  one's  baggage  check.  Trans- 
fer checks  across  cities  en  route  should  be  purchased  with  the 
ticket.  A  ticket  must  be  shown  when  the  baggage  is  checked, 
and,  since  1915,  an  annoying  statement  of  value  is  required 
if  the  journey  be  an  interstate  one.  Baggage  checked  a 
few  hours  in  advance  of  train  time  in  a  large  city,  stands 
a  better  chance  of  accompanying  the  traveler. 

Out-going  baggage  can  be  checked  Ifrom  the  hotel  or 
dwelling  house  if  the  ticket  has  been  purchased  (and  baggage 
transfers  when  necessary) .  Strangers  entering  city  would 
best  employ  the  local  express  company  officially  recognized 
in  the  station  (usually  Westcott  Express) ,  rather  than  an 
unknown  company  or  expressman.  A  uniformed  official  of 
this  company  passes  through  the  principal  trains,  collecting 
checks,  just  outside  the  city.  Small  trunks  can  be  carried 
with  one  in  a  cab  or  taxicab,  but  in  a  large  city  where  the 
distances  are  great,  by  far  the  cheaper  method  is  to  send 
baggage  between  the  station  and  the  house  by  express  and 
travel  oneself  by  subway,  elevated,  or  surface  cars.  If  in- 
coming baggage  is  left  in  the  station  unclaimed  for  more  than 
24  hours  a  storage  charge  of  25c.  the  first  day  and  loc.  a 
day  thereafter  is  usually  made.  The  companies  do  not 
recognize  liability  of  over  $100  for  baggage  unless  the  owner 
has  declared  a  higher  value  and  paid  excess  charges  when 
checking.  One  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  is  transported  free 
with  each  full  fare  and  fifty  pounds  with  each  half  fare.  Dogs 
on  the  chain  will,  under  most  circumstances  be  transported  in 
the  baggage  car  upon  payment  of  the  regular  charges  to  the 
baggage-master.  On  most  roads  a  small  animal  in  a  basket  can 
be  taken  into  the  passenger  coach,  although  the  conductor  will 
banish  it  to  the  baggage  car  if  it  is  at  all  conspicuous  or 
offensive. 

(b)    Division  of  Material  in  this  Guide  Book.    Maps 

To  aid  the  traveler  in  the  use  of  this  guide,  Manhattan 
has  been  divided  into  the  following  sections:  Downtown, 
from  the  Battery  to  14th  st.,  occupied  in  different  parts  by 
factories,  warehouses,  offices,  and  banking  concerns,  and 
on  the  E.  side  the  most  congested  tenement  district  in  the 
world.  Midtown  from  14th  st.  to  sgth  st.,  containing  on  the 
E.  side  tenement  houses,  along  4th  ave.  modern  loft  build- 
ings, along  5th  ave.  wonderful  shops,  along  Broadway  the 


ARRIVAL  IN  NEW  YORK  3 

majority  of  playhouses  and  famous  restaurants.  Uptown 
(including  all  Manhattan  north  of  59th  st.  to  the  Harlem 
river)  on  the  East  side,  containing  more  tenements  joining, 
the  Bronx,  and  Sth  ave.,  here  lined  with  magnificent  resi- 
dences. Upper  West  side,  the  chief  residential  district,  built 
up  with  thousands  of  apartment  houses. 

The  streets  run  in  a  general  direction  of  north  and  south, 
east  and  west.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  city  they  are  laid  out 
with  little  regularity.  The  "New  York  Street  Directory" 
Ooc.  at  newsstands)  lists  house  numbers  at  intersecting 
streets.    The  chief  streets  running  N.  and  S.  are: 

Broadway  from  the  Battery  northeasterly  to  E.  loth  St., 
then  northerly,  crossing  Fifth  ave.  at  23rd  St.,  Sixth  ave.  at 
34th  St.,  Seventh  ave.  at  43rd  St.,  Eighth  ave.  at  spth  st, 
Columbus  ave.  at  65th  st,  Amsterdam  ave.  at  726.  st,  and 
West  End  ave.  at  io6th  st 

Fifth  ave.  runs  from  Washington  sq.,  a  block  south  of 
Sth  St.,  through  the  middle  of  the  island  to  the  Harlem  River 
at  I42d  st 

The  avenues  from  First  to  Thirteenth  run  north  and 
south.  Avenues  A,  B,  C  and  D,  are  short  north  and  south 
streets  east  of  First  ave.  Lexington  ave.  is  between  Third 
and  Fourth  aves.,  north  of  21st  st.  Madison  ave.  lies  between 
Fourth  and  Fifth  aves.,  north  of  23d  st  North  of  34th  st. 
Fourth  ave.  is  called  Park  ave.;  north  of  59th  st.  Ninth  av^. 
is  called  Columbus  ave.,  Tenth  ave.  is  called  Amsterdam  ave., 
and  Eleventh  ave.  is  called  West  End  ave.  as  far. as  107th  st, 
where  it  ends  at  Broadway.  Sixth  ave.  is  called  Lenox  ave. 
above  iioth  st.  First  st  lies  about  a  mile  N.  of  City  Hall. 
Parallel  streets  are  numbered  up  to  220th  st.  in  Manhattan 
and  262d  st  in  the  Bronx.  Up  to  I42d  st.  the  streets  are  called 
East  and  West  according  to  their  position  with  regard  to 
Fifth  ave.,  and  the  buildings  are  numbered  from  that  avenue 
toward  the  Hudson  River  on  the  west  and  the  East  River 
on  the  east  (excepting  on  the  west  side  from  59th  to  109th  st 
inclusive,  where  the  numbering  of  the  cross  streets  begins  at 
Central  Park  West). 

Maps.  The  index  map  on  the  opposite  page  shows  in 
outline  the  various  boroughs  of  New  York  City  and  the  im- 
mediately contiguous  suburbs.  Also — in  brown— the  area  cov- 
ered by  each  of  the  different  maps  in  this  guide  book,  to  which 
further  reference  may  be  made. 

(c)    The  Motorist  in  New  York.    Garage  Facilities,  etc. 

Traffic  Regulations 
The  traveler  arriving  in  New  York  by  automobile  will 
find  that  the  leading  hotels  either  have  garages  of  their  own 


4  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

or  (more  usually)  have  connection  with  some  first-class 
garage  conveniently  near.  The  usual  charge  in  New  York 
garages  is  $i.oo  per  day  for  storage,  and  $i.oo  extra  for 
cleaning  and  polishing.  In  some  garages,  only  50  cents  is 
charged  for  daytime  storage.  The  following  is  a  brief  list 
of  some  of  the  better  known  garages: 

Gotham  Garage,  102  W.  46th  St.;  Joacelyn  Garage,  xx4  W.  53d  St.; 
Belnord  Garage,  252  W.  87th  St.;  Ansonia  Garage,  207  W.  75th  at.; 
Bretton  Hall  Garage,  150  W.  83d  St.;  Circle  Garage,  40  W.  60th  st.; 
Hudson  Garage,  220  W.  41st  St.;  Murray  Hill  Garage,  27  E.  40th  St.; 
Mineola  Garage,  Park  ave.  and  59th  st.;  Packard  Acme  Garage,  124  W. 
50th  St.;  St.  Regis  Garage,  481  Park  ave.;  Vanderbilt  Garage,  155  £. 
35tli  St. 

Automobiles  may  be  hired  by  the  hour,  day  or  for  longer 
periods,  the  average  charges  being  from  $2.50  per  hour  up- 
wards, according  to  the  make  and  size  of  the  car  (from $15.00 
upwards  per  day),  the  price  including  services  of  a  chauffeur. 
A  number  of  the  renting  agencies  may  be  found  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Times  Square  (for  comprehensive  list,  see 
Telephone  Red  Book). 

Packard  Acme  Rental  Co.,  124  W.  50th  St.;  Packard  Motor  Renting 
Co.,  Broadway  and  62d  St.;  Times  Square  Renting  Co.,  210  W.  43d 
St.;  Waldorf-Astoria  Auto  Renting  Co.,  55  Prospect  PI.,  Brown's 
Packard  Renting  Co.,  146  W.  44th  St.;  Bryant  Auto  Renting  Co.,  1926 
Broadway;  Columbia  Auto  Renting  Co.,  305  Fifth  ave.;  Lauterbach 
Renting  Co.,  204  W.   43d  st. 

Out  of  town  drivers  in  New  York  City  should  be  familiar 
with  local  "traffic  regulations,"  which,  on  account  of  con- 
gestion, ar^  very  strictly  enforced.  The  most  significant  of 
these  Regulations  are  reprinted  below.  Complete  copies  may 
be  obtained  gratis  at  any  police  station  and,  generally,  from 
any  one  of  the  "traffic  policemen"  at  street  crossings: 

''The  following  regulations  for  vehicles  shall  be  observed  by  the 
drivers  thereof,  who  shall  also  comply  at  all  times  with  any  direction 
by  voice,  hand  or  whistle  from  any  member  of  the  Police  Force  ad 
to  starting,  stopping,  slowing,  approaching  or  departing  from  any 
place,  the  manner  of  taking  up  or  setting  down  passengers,  and  the 
loading  or  unloading  of  anything. 

"Police  Officers  may  temporarily  divert  traffic  to  avoid  congestion. 

Article  I.     Passing,  Turning,  Keeping  to  the  Right,  Backing 

AND  Following. 

''Section  i.    A  vehicle  meeting  another  shall  pass  to  the  right. 

"Sec.  2.  A  vehicle  overtaking  another  shall  pass  to  the  left  and 
not  pull  over  to  the  right  until  entirely  clear  of  it;  except  in  passing 
a  street  car  when  it  shall  keep  to  the  right  if  distance  between  car 
and  curb  permits. 

"Sec.  3.  A  vehicle  turning  into  a  street  to  the  right  shall  turn 
the  corner  as  near  the  right-hand  curb  as  practicable. 

"Sec.  4.  A  vehicle  turning  into  a  street  to  the  left  shall  pass 
around  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  two  streets. 

"Sbc.  5.  A  vehicle  turning  from  one  side  to  the  other  of  a  street 
shall  reverse  its  direction. 

*'Stc.  6.    A  vehicle  shall  keep  as  near  as  practicable  to  the  right- 


ARRIVAL  IN  NEW  YORK  5 

hand  curb  so  as  to  leave  the  center  of  the  street  clear  for  overtaking 
traffic — th€  slower  the  speed  the  nearer  the  curb. 

"Sec.  7.  A  vehicle  on  a  street  divided  longitudinally  by  a  park- 
ivay,  walk,  sunkenway,  viaduct,  isle  of  safety,  or  cab  stand,  shall  keep 
to    the  right  of  such  division. 

"Sec.  8.  A  vehicle  passing  around  a  circle  shall  keep  to  the  right 
from  entrance  to  exit. 

"Sec.  9.  A  vehicle  shall  not  back  to  make  a  turn  if  it  obstructs 
traffic  but  shall  go  around  the  block  or  to  a  street  wide  and  clear 
enough  for  the  purpose. 

Article  II.     Stopping,  Standing,  Waiting  and  Parking. 

"Section  i.  A  vehicle  shall  not  stop  with  its  left  side  to  the  curb 
except  on  a  'one-way  traffic'  street. 

"Sec.  4.  A  vehicle  shall  not  be  parked  or  otherwise  stopped  so  as 
to  prevent  the  free  passage  of  other  vehicles  in  both  directions  at  the 
same  time  or  in  one  direction  in  a  'one-way  traffic'  street. 

"Sec.  5.  A  vehicle,  unless  parked,  shall  not  stand  backed  up  at 
any  angle  to  a  curb,  except  while  actually  loading  or  unloading,  and  if 
horse-drawn  and  with  four  wheels  the  horses  shall  stand  parsulel  with 
the  curb,  faced  in  the  direction  of  traffic. 

"Sec.  6.  A  vehicle,  unless  a  street  car,  shall  not  stop  in  any  street 
except  near  the  curb  and  then  so  as  not  to  obstruct  a  crossing  or  cross- 
walk  except  to  allow  another  vehicle  or  pedestrian   to   cross  its  path. 

Article    III.     Overtaking    Street    Cars. 
"A  vehicle  in  overtaking  or  meeting  a  street  passenger  car  which  has 
been  stopped  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  or  discharging  a  passenger 
or  passengers,  shall  not  pass  or  approach  within  eight  (8)   feet  of  such 
car  so  long  as  such  car  is  so  stopped. 

Article  IV.     Right  of  Way. 

"Section  i.  When  in  the  performance  of  duty,  the  following 
vehicles  shall  have  the  right  of  way:  U.  S.  Mail,  Police,  Fire,  Fire 
Patrol,  Bureau  of  Buildings,  Emergency,  Repair  of  Public  Service  Cor- 
porations, Ambulances;  also  the  Military. 

"Sec.  2.  Conditions  warranting.  North  and  South  traffic  shall  have 
the  right  of  way. 

"Sec.  3.  A  vehicle  in  front  of  a  street  car  shall  immediately  turn 
out  upon  signal. 

"Sec.  5.  A  vehicle,  on  the  approach  of  fire  apparatus,  shall  im- 
mediately draw  parallel  and  near  to  the  curb  and  stop. 

Article  V.     Signals. 
"Section^  i.     A   vehicle's   driver   when    slowing   or   stopping   shall 
give   timely  signal   by  hand   or   whip,   or  in   some   other   unmistakable 
manner. 

"Sec.  2.  A  vehicle's  driver  when  about  to  turn  either  from  a 
standstill  or  while  in  motion,  shall  give  timely  signal  by  hand  or  whip 
or  in  some  other  unmistakable  manner  to  indicate  the  direction  of  the 
turn.     This  is  especially  important  when  turning  to  the  left. 

"Sec.  3.     A  vehicle  beford  backing  shall  give  ample  warning. 
"Sec.  4.     Police  whistle  signals  shall  indicate: 

One  blast — N.  and  S.  traffic  stops  and  E.  and  W.  proceeds. 

Two   blasts— -E.  and  W.  traffic  stops  and  N.  and  S.  proceeds. 

Three  or  more  blasts — ^The  approach  of  fire  apparatus  or 

other  danger. 

**Sec.  6.     Sound  signals  are  prohibited  except  for  necessary  warning. 

Article  VII.     Restrictions  in  Regard  to  Vehicles. 
'Sec.  7.     Coasting  is  prohibited  when  dangerous. 
'Sec.  8.     The  use  of  a  motor  muffler  cut-out  is  prohibited. 
'Sec.  9.     Dense  smoke  from  motors  is  prohibited." 


"J 
"• 


6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  QTY 

II.    Hotels  and  Boarding  Houses 
(a)    General  Information 

The  visitor  to  new  New  York  usually  takes  a  room  by  the 
day  or  week  in  a  hotel  selected  in  reference  to  its  location, 
rates  and  characteristics,  and  eats  his  meals  wherever  he 
chooses.  The  "European  plan"  is  the  reckoning  of  the  board- 
rate  by  the  number  of  meals  eaten,  either  a  la  carte  or  table 
d'hote,  while  the  "American  plan"  is  a  flat  weekly  rate  includ- 
ing room  and  three  meals  a  day^  no  reduction  being  made, for 
absences.  The  "American  plan"  hotel,  once  universal  in 
New  York  as  elsewhere  in  the  United  States,  is  now  prac- 
tically unknown  here.    Special  rates  are  given  to  conventions. 

The  room-rent  in  a  hotel  includes  light,  heat,  usually 
soap,  care  of  the  room,  and  the  privilege  of  bathing  in  the 
house  bathrooms.  The  European  custom  of  including  shoe- 
cleaning  does  not  obtain  in  most  houses.  The  large  houses 
have  valets  and  maids  whose  service  may  be  utilized,  laundry 
can  be  done  overnight,  suits  pressed,  etc.  Meals  will  be 
served  in  rooms  and  charged  as  in  the  dining-room,  except 
that  an  additional  fee  of  25c.  is  usual. 

The  hotel  attendants  are  paid  low  wages  and  expect  to 
supplement  them  by  gratuities.  If  one  is  staying  at  a  large 
hotel  fees  must  be  counted  as  a  part  of  the  daily  expenses. 
The  general  rule  may  be  followed  of  paying  for  any  extra 
personal  service  rendered  by  an  attendant.  The  gratuity  for 
a  bellboy  is  5  to  25c.  according  to  the  service  rendered;  for 
a  waiter  10%  of  the  cost  of  the  meal,  but  not  less  than  loc. 
(In  restaurants  of  the  Childs  type  5c.  "tips**  per  person  are 
usual.)  Upon  the  good  humor  of  these  two  attendants  de- 
pends much  of  the  visitor's  comfort.  The  prices  quoted  are 
the  lowest  prices  for  the  different  classes  of  rooms.  The 
traveler  can  always  obtain  more  desirable  rooms  at  higher 
prices,  and  must  if  the  lower  priced  rooms  are  fully  occupied. 
Some  hotels  have  an  annoying  custom  of  having  but  very 
few  rooms  at  the  minimum  figure,  which  are  practically  never 
available. 

Strangers  arriving  in  New  York  should  know  the  address  of  the 
hotel  to  which  they  ^  direct  a  cabman,  as  some  names  of  reputable 
hotels  are  either  duplicated  or  nearly  imitated  by  less  desirable  houses. 
There  are  in  the  city  many  of  the  "Raines  Law"  hotels,  which  are 
merely  saloons  which  have  added  a  sufficient  number  of  sleeping  rooms 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  hotel  liquor  law  and  escape  Sunday  closing. 
Some  of  these  houses  receive  men  only  and  are  entirely  reputable. 
Others  are  houses  of  assignation. 

The  large  fashionable  hotels  are  among  the  sights  of  the 
^     city,  and  guests  staying  at  more  modest  ones  should  still  visit 


HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  HOUSES 

some  of  the  noted  houses.  Guides  will  be  furnished  upon^ 
request  at  the  desk.  The  guide  will  expect  a  fee  for  showing 
the  house.  Afternoon  tea  in  the  tea  room  or  roof  garden  is 
an  enjoyable  event.  Among  the  largest  houses  are:  the  Bilt- 
more  (p.  212),  the  newest  building;  the  Knickerbocker 
(p.  168)  ;  the  StT  Regis  (p.  204)  ;  the  Ritz-Carlton  (p.  214)  ; 
the  Aster  (p.  171)  ;  the  Plaza  (p.  205)  ;  the  Waldorf-Astoria 
(p.  182)  ;  the  McAlpin  (p.  166)  ;  and  the  Vanderbilt  (p.  216). 

This  most  modem  and  most  sumptuous  type  of  hotel  has*^ 
introduced  a  new  element  into  the  social  life  of  big  cities. 
It  is  not  merely  a  hotel,  but  in  a  certain  sense  a  public  resort, 
frequented  daily  by  a  vast  floating  population  comprised,  not 
only  of  casual  strangers,  but  of  resident  New  Yorkers,  who 
take  an  unlicensed,  yet  undisputed  advantage  of  a  large  pro- 
portion of  the  accommodations  and  privileges  intended  for 
the  guests  of  the  house.  Any  well-dressed  stranger  can  enter 
unchallenged,  use  the  parlors  and  sitting-rooms  as  meeting- 
places  for  social  or  business  purposes,  finish  a  day's  cor- 
respondence on  the  hotel  stationery,  and  in  various  ways, 
make  the  modern  caravansary  serve  the  purpose  of  a  private 
club,  to  which  he  pays  neither  fees  nor  dues.  Women  patron- 
ize these  hotels  more  and  more  for  afternoon  tea,  having 
found  that  they  pay  less  and  receive  more  accessories  than 
at  the  fashionable  little  tea  rooms  in  the  lower  thirties;  and 
men  find  it  more  comfortable  to  lounge  at  ease  in  big 
cushioned  chairs,  spending  an  hour  over  cocktails,  that  have 
cost  no  more  than  if  hastily  tossed  off  at  the  bar  of  a  corner 
saloon. 

(b)     Large  and  Expensive  Hotels  of  the  Very  First  Rank 

The  hotels  named  below  have  a  world  wide  reputation  for 
sumptuous  excellence. 

•♦  St.  Regis.  (PI.  I— B3)  5th  ave.  and  55th  st.  (350  R.)  One  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  large  hotels,  much  patronized  bv  wealthy  foreign- 
ers and  nobility.  (R.  Single  $3.  With  B.  $5.  Double  $5.  With  B.  $6. 
Suites  $10.)      (See  restaurants,   p.  21.) 

**  Ritz-Carlton.  (PI.  IV — E2)  Madison  ave.  and  46th  st.  (42s  R.  425  B.) 
For  description  sec  p.  26,  (Rates  given  upon  request.)  (See  restau- 
rants, p.  21.3 

•♦  Vanderbilt.  (PI.  Ill— E2)  Madison  ave.  and  34th  st.  (600  R.  600  B.) 
For  description  see  p.  216.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $3.  Double  with  B. 
$5.     Suite  $12.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  20.) 

*•  Waldorf-Astoria.  (PI.  Ill— D2)  sth  ave.  and  34th  st.  (nop  R.  900  B.) 
For  description  see  p.  182.  (R.  Single  $3.  With  B.  $4.  Double  $4. 
With  B.  $5.     Suite  $10.)      (See  restaurants,  p.  20.) 


RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

BlltSMrc  (PI.  IV— E3)  43d  8t.  and  Vanderbilt  ave.  (1000  R.  950  B.) 
Close  b^  Grand  Central  Terminal,  subway  entrance  to  station.  For 
description  see  p.  ai2,  (R.  Single  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.50.  Double  $4. 
With  6.  $5.     Suites  $10.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  ai.) 

*•  Plaza.  (PI.  V — C6)  5th  ave.  and  59th  st.  (750  R.)  For  description 
see  p.  ^5.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $4.  Rates  upon  application.)  (See 
restaurants,  p.  ax.)  • 

•  Hotel  Alter.  (PI.  IV — B3)  Broadway  and  44th  st.  For  description 
see  p.  171.  (R.  Single  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.50.  Double  $3.50.  With  B. 
$4.50-     Suites  $10.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  21.) 

(c)    Downtown  Hotels — the  Battery  to  X4th  Street 

The  hotels  in  New  York  are  following  the  general  migra- 
tory movement  toward  the  upper  part  of  Manhattan.  Prac- 
tically none  are  left  in  the  extreme  Downtown  section  below 
Canal  street,  and  those  of  the  upper  section  between  Canal 
St.  and  14th  St.  are  either  unpretentious,  somewhat  old- 
fashioned  houses  or  else  family  hotels.  They  offer  quieter 
surroundings  and  lower  rates  than  the  Midtown  and  Uptown 
houses. 

Earle.  103  Waverley  Place,  (no  R.  no  B.)  Quiet  moderate 
prices.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $1.50.  Double  with  B.  $2.50.  Weekly  rates 
on   application     American   plan   rates    on   application.) 

Jadion.  53  Washington  Square.  Small  family  hotel,  permanent 
and  transient.  (R.  Single  $1.  With  B.  $1.50.  Suites,  rates  on  appli- 
cation.     American    plan,    $2.50.      Weekly    rates    on    application.) 

HoUey.  Washington  Square  West.  Recently  enlarged.  Small 
family  hotel,  permanent  and  transient.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $1.50. 
Suite  $3.  Weekly  rates  on  application.  American  plan,  rates  on  applt- 
catioa.) 

Brevoort.  sth  ave.  and  8th  st.  (100  R.)  French.  Formerly 
fashionable ;  now  one  of  the  most  liked  small  hotels'  in  the  city. 
Much  patronized  by  foreigners,  artists,  and  journalists  of  distinction. 
Quiet,  unostentatious,  satisfactory.  (}ood  food.  (R.  Single  $z.5a  With 
6.  $2.50.     Double  $3.00.  ,  With  B.  $3.50.) 

Hotel  Albert.  University  Place  and  nth  st.  (386  R.)  Small 
commercial  hotel,  much  patronized  by  traveling  men.  (R.  Single 
$1.     With  B.  $1.50.     Double  $2.     With  B.  $3.) 

Van  Rensselaer.  17  E.  nth  st.  (2<>o  R.  200  B.)  Small  family 
hotel.  (R.  Single  $1.  With  B.  $1.50.  Double  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.50. 
American  rates  on  application.) 

St.  Denis.  Broadway  and  nth  st.  (230  R.  40  B.)  A  long- 
established  house.  Popular  with  small  conventions.  Good  food. 
(R.  Single  $1.     With  B.  $1.50.     Double  $2.     With  B.  $3.) 

(d)    Midtown  Hotels— 14th  Street  to  59th  Street 

The  greatest  number  of  hotels  are  on  or  directly  north 
of  42d  St.  between  Madison  ave.  and  Broadway.  They  are 
convenient  to  the  Pennsylvania  station  and  the  Grand  Central 
Terminal,  the  theatrical  district,  and  the  new  shopping  section. 
They  vary  in  price  and  character  from  the  modest  side-street 
houses    to    huge,    high-priced    hostelries.     The    houses    here 


HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  HOUSES      9 

given  further  downtown  have  the  advantage  of  being  some- 
what more  economical. 

Hotel  Irvliig.  a6  Gramercy  Park.  (i8o  R.)  Family  hotel,  per- 
manent and  transient.  (R.  Single  $i.  With  B.  $1.50.  Double  $1.50. 
With   B.  $2.50.     American  rates  $3  a  day.) 

Cbeliea.  224  W.  23rd  st.  (525  R.  250  B.)  Old  hotel,  somewhat 
off  the  m?in  travel  road.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.  Double  $2.50. 
With  B.  $3.) 

♦  Prince  Georse.  (PI.  Ill— E4)  14  E.  28th.  (800  R.  800  B.)  An 
extremely  comfortable  and  popular  hotel  with  average  prices.  One  of 
the  largest  of  the  "side-street**  hotels.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.  Double 
with  B.  $4.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  20.) 

Latham.  (PI.  Ill — D4)  4  E.  28th  st.  (250  R.  200  B.)  Quiet  family 
hotel.     (R.  Single  $1.50.    With  B.  $2.     Double  $2.50.    With  B.  $3.) 

Seville.  (PI.  Ill — E4)  Madison  ave.  and  2Qth  st.  (400  R.  300  B.) 
Pleasant  hotel  with  average  rates.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.50. 
Double  $2.50.    With  B,  $3.) 

*  BreSlin.  (PI.  Ill — D4)  Broadway  and  29th  st.  An  excellent 
medium-sized  hotel,  much  patronized  bv  people  who  come  regularly  to 
the  city.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.50.  Double  $3.  With  B,  $4. 
Suite  $8.)     (See  restaurants  p.  20.) 

•  Holland  House.  .(PI.  Ill — D3)  5th  ave.  and  30th  st.  An  old  and 
established  house,  recently  renovated.  (R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $3. 
Double  $3.     With  B.  $4-     Suite  $7.) 

Grand  Hotel.  (PI.  Ill — D3)  Broadway  and  31st  st.  (400  R.  200  B.) 
Much  patronized  by  traveling  men.  Prices  low.  (R.  Single  $1.  With 
B.  $i.5a     Double  %x     With  B.  $3.) 

La  Marquise.  (PI.  Ill — E3)  12  E.  31st  st.  Apartment  hotel  with  a 
few  single  rooms.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.50.  Suites:  winter 
rate  $5,  summer  rate  $3.     American  rates  upon  application.) 

Wolcott.  (PI.  Ill — D3)  31st  St.  betw.  5th  ave.  and  Broadway.  (260 
R.  xao  B.)  Specializes  in  personal  service  and  attentions.  (R.  Single  $2. 
With  B.  I2.50.    Double  with  B.  $5.     Suite  $6.) 

Park  Avenue.  (PI.  Ill — E3)  4th  ave.  and  32nd  st.  (450  R.)  Quiet 
old'fashioned,  delightful  palm  court.  Much  patronized  by  women 
traveling  alone.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $3.  Double  $2.50.  With  B. 
$4.     Suite  $7.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  20.) 

Stratford.  11  E.  32nd  st.  Small,  quiet,  unpretentious,  comfort- 
able. (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.50,  R.  Double  with  B.  $3.50.  Two 
connecting  with  B.  $4.  Suites  $j^.  American  plan  $2.50  extra  per  day.) 
No  charge  for  service  of  breakfast  in  rooms. 

Aberdeen.  (PI.  Ill — D3)  17  W.  32d  st.  Small,  catering  to  the 
traveler  of  moderate  means,  especially  women  traveling  alone.  (R. 
Single  with  B.  $2.     Suites  $4.) 

Pierrepont.  43  W.  32nd  st.,  near  Broadway.  Small,  moderate 
prices.  (R.  Single  with  running  water  $1.  Double  with  B.  $2. 
Suites  $3.50.) 

Imperial.  (PI.  Ill — P3)  Broadway  and  32nd  st.  Medium-sized  hotel. 
(R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.  Double  $3*  With  B.  $4.  Additional 
person  in  room  $1.     Suite  $5.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  20.) 

♦  •  Martinique.     (PI.   Ill — C3)    Broadway   and   33rd   st.     Large   hotel, 
special  department  for  facilitating  railway  and  steamship  travel,  repre- 
sentative will  meet  steamers  and  attend  to  baggage,  and  rooms  will  be 


10  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

reserved^  upon  request  by  teleeram  or  wireless  from  steamer.'  (R. 
Single  $2.  With  B.  $2.5a  Double  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.50.)  (See  restau- 
rants, p.  ao.) 

**  McAlpln.  (PI.  Ill — Ca)  Broadway  and  34th  st.  (1500  R.  all  outside.) 
For  description  see  p.  166.  (R.  Single  with  running  water  $1.50.  With 
B.  $2.  Double  $3.  With  B.  $3.50.  Suites  $5.)  (See  restaurants,  p.  ao.) 
Excellent  40c.   club  breakfast. 

Herald  Square.  (PI.  Ill — C2)  34th  st.,  near  Broadway.  Small, 
moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $3.  Double  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.) 
Combination  breakfasts,  25c.,  35c.,  45c.^  50c.,  6oc.  Meals  served  in 
rooms,   25c.   extra  for  each   person. 

Colllngwood.  (PI.  Ill — D2)  45  W.  35th  St.,  betw.  Broadway  and 
5th  ave.  Small,  unpretentious,  moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  $1.50. 
With   B.   $2.50.     Double   $2.     With   B.   $3.) 

Gregorian.  (PI.  Ill — D2)  35  W.  35th  st.  betw.  5th  ave.  and  Broad- 
way. (160  R.  160  B.)  Quiet,  family  hotel,  prices  moderate.  (R.  Single 
with  B.  $a.     Double  with  B.  $3.) 

Marlborough.  (PI.  Ill — C2)  Broadway  and  36th  st.,  entrance  on 
36th  St.  (300  R.)  Frequented  by  travelinsr  men,  bnsiness  men  and  familv 
parties.  (R.  Single  $1.  With  B.  $1.50.  Suites  $3.)   (See  restaurants,  p.  ao.) 

York.  (PI.  Ill — B2)  36th  St.  and  7th  ave.  (300  R.  150  B.)  Near 
Pennsylvania  Railroad  Terminal.  (R.  Single.  With  B.  $2.  Double 
$2.50.     With  B.   $3.) 

Mills.  (PI.  Ill— B2)  36th  St.  and  7th  ave.  (1875  R.)  One  of  the 
"Mills  Hotels'*  for  men  of  small  means.  No  women  admitted  to 
Hotel.     Women  admitted  to  restaurant.     (R.  30c.  and  40c.)    • 

Navarre.  (PI.  Ill— Bi)  .?8th  st.  and  7th  ave.  (350  R.  200  B.)  (R. 
with  B.  $1.50.  Large  R.  with  B.  $2.  $1  extra  for  each  additional 
person  in  R.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  20.) 

Normandle.  (PI.  Ill — Ci)  Broadway  and  38th  st.  Small,  low-priced. 
(R.   Single  $1.     With  B.  $1.50.     Double  $2.     With  B.   $3.) 

Murray  Hill.  (PI.  IV — E4)  Park  ave.  and  41st  st.  A  larpe,  old- 
fashioned,  quiet  hotel  in  a  quiet  neighborhood  near  the  Grand  Central. 
Prices  reasonable.  Very  comfortable.  (R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $3. 
Double  $3.     With  B.  $4.) 

•*  Belmont.  (PI.  IV— E3)  Park  ave.  and  42nd  st.  (looo  R.)  Directly 
opposite  the  Grand  Central  Terminal,  subway  entrance  to  station  and 
subway.  For  description  see  p.  212.  (R.  Smgle  $2.50.  With  B. 
$3-50.     Double  $4.     With  B.  $5.     Suites  $10.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  21.) 

*  Manhattan.  (PI.  IV — E3)  42nd  st.  and  Madison  ave.  Directly  op- 
posite Grand  Central  Terminal,  subwav  entrance  ♦^o  station  and  subwavs. 
For  description  see  p.  212.  (R.  Single  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.50.  Double 
$4.     With  B.  $4.     Suites  $10.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  21.) 

*•  Knickerbocker.  (PI.  IV — C3)  42nd  st.  and  Broadwav.  (600  R.  400 
B.)  For  description  see  p.  168.  (R.  Single  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.50. 
Double  $4.     With  B.  $5.     Suites  $10.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  21.) 

Lorraine.  CPl.  IV — F4)  fth  ave.  and  asth  st.  (2*^0  R.  250  B.) 
Family  hotel.     (R.  Single  $2.     With   B.  $3,     Double  with  B.  $5.) 

New  Weston.  (PI.  IV — F2)  Madison  ave.  and  49th  st.  (260  R. 
260  B.)     (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.     Double  with  B.  $3.) 

Buckingham.  (PI.  IV — Di')  5th  ave.  and  soth  st.  An  old-fashioned 
hotel  with  large  rooms  and  grate  fires.  Patronized  especially  bv  fam- 
ilies and  women  visiting  the  city  alone.  (R.  Single  $z.5a  With  bath 
$3.     Suites  $6.) 


HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  HOUSES  ii 

Woodstock.  (PI.  IV— C3)  127  W.  43rd  St.  betw.  6th  avc.  and  Broad- 
way. Small,  quiet,  moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  $a.  With  B.  $3.50. 
Double  $3.    With  B.  $350) 

WaUlck's  formerly  Cadillac.  (PI.  IV — C3)  43rd  at.  and  Broadway. 
Moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  $z.  With  B.  $1.50.  Double  $3.  With  B. 
$3.50.     Suites  $4.) 

Iroquois.  (PI.  IV— D3)  49  W.  44th  st.  (148  R.  148  B.)  Family 
hotel,  moderate  prices.     (R.   Single  with  B.  $2.     Double  with  B.  $3.) 

Algonquin.  (PI.  IV— D3)  59  W.  44th  st.  (225  R.  225  B.)  Family 
hotel,  moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.50.  Double  with  B. 
$350.) 

Gerard.  (PI.  IV— C3)  123  W.  44th  st.  (300  R.  200  B.)  Family  hotel, 
moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  $1.  With  B.  $2.50.  Double  $2.  With 
B.  $4.     American  rates  upon  application.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  21.) 

*Clarldge.  (PI.  IV— C3)  Broadway  and  44th  st.  (250  R.  250  B.)  The 
building  formerly  occupied  by  Rectors,  now  remodeled.  An  extremely 
comfortable  hotel  modeled  upon  the  European  ideal,  yet  distinctly 
American  in  its  fittings  and  service.  No  cabaret.  Good  cooking.  (R. 
Single  with  B.  $3.  Double  with  B.  $5.  Suites  $6.)  (See  restaurants, 
p.  21.) 

Seymour.  (PI.  IV— D3)  44  W.  45th  st.  (300  R.  160  B.)  Family 
hotel.     (R.  Single  $2.     With  B.  $3.50.) 

Richmond.  70  W.  46th  st.  (150  R.  150  B.)  Patronized  by  high- 
class  theatrical  people.     (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.) 

Remington.  129  W.  46th  st.  (100  R.  32  B.)  In  the  theatrical 
district.     (R.  Single  $1.     With  B.  $1.50.     Double  with  B.  $2.50.) 

*Gotham.  (IV — G2)  sth  ave.  and  ssth  st.  (400  R.  400  B.)  Special- 
izes in  permanent  guests.  '25  to  50  %  reduction  in  summer  rates.  (R, 
Single  with  shower  B.  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.50.  Double  with  B.  $4. 
Suites  $12.) 

Feliz-Portland.  (PI.  IV— R)  132  W.  47th  st.  (100  R.)  Patronized 
by  Porto  Ricans.     (R.  Single  $1.) 

King  Edward.  14s  W.  47th  st.  (350  R.  250  B.)  (R.  Single  $1.50. 
With  B.  $2.     Suites  $4.) 

Somerset.  (PI.  IV— C2)  150  W.  47th  st.  (250  R.)  (R.  Single  $1.50. 
With  B.  $2.     Double  $3,     With  B.  $3.5a) 

Longacre.  (PI.  IV — B2)  Broadway  and  47th  st.  (250  R.  150  B.) 
Bachelors  only.  (R.  Single  with  lavatory  $1.  With  B.  $1.50.  Double 
with  B.  $3.)     Ladies  admitted  to  dining  room.     Club  breakfast. 

BristoL  (PI.  IV — C2)  122  W.  <i9th  st.  betw.  6th  and  7th  avcs. 
Family  hotel.  (187  R.  187  B.)  (R.  Single  with  running  water  $1.50. 
With  D.  $2.  Double  with  running  water  $2.  With  B.  $2.50.  American 
plan.  I  person  R.  with  meals  $2;  R.  with  B.  and  meals  $2.50:  2  persons 
R.  with  meals  $5;  R.  with  B.  and  meals  $6.)  Club  breakfast  25c.  to 
50C.     Td'h  luncheon   50c.;   Td'h  dinner  75c. 

Cuibberland.  Broadway  and  54th  st.  (250  R.  250  B.)  Caters 
especially  to  college  students,  fraternities,  and  summer  visitors. 
Screens  throughout.     (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.50.     Double  with  B.  $3.) 

Southern.  54th  st.  near  Broadway.  (180  R.  180  B.)  (R.  Single 
with  B.  $1.50.     Double  with  B.  $2.50.) 

Woodward.  Broadway  and  55th  st.  (220  R.  115  B.)  Quiet, 
family  hotel.  (R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.  Double  $2.50.  With 
B.  $3.) 


12  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Greenoble.  s6th  st.  and  7th  ave.,  opposite  Carnegie  Hall. 
Small  family  and  transient  hotel.  (R.  Single  $z.  With  B.  $3. 
Suites  $3.) 

St.  Hubert.  t2o  W.  $7th  st.  (140  R.  100  B.)  (R.  Single  with 
B.  $2.     Double  with  B.  $4.) 

Great  Northern.  118  W.  S7th  st.  (400  R.  400  B.)  Quiet  hotel; 
patronized  by  women  traveling  alone.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.  Double 
with  B.  $3.     Suites  $4.) 

Netherland.  5th  ave.  and  59th  st.  (350  R.)  Faces  Central 
Park.  High-class.  (R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $3.  Double  with  B.  $5. 
Suites  $7.) 

*  Savoy.  5th  ave.  and  59th  si.  (400  R.  250  B.)  Faces  Central 
Park.  High-ceiled  rooms.  High-class  house.  (R.  Single  $a.  With 
B.  $3.     Double  $3.     With  B.  $4.     Suites  $6.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  ax.) 

(e)    Uptown  Hotels — Above  59th  Street 

The  hotels  follow  Broadway  and  Park  ave.  mainly  north- 
ward, tending  to  become,  as  they  leave  the  business  and 
theatrical  district,  apartment  hotels,  accommodating  both 
permanent  family  groups  and  transient  guests. 

St.  Paul.  Columbus  ave.  and  6oth  st.  (250  R.)  (R.  Single  $1. 
with  B.  $1.50.     Suites  $2.50.     Special  rates  by  the  week.) 

Empire.  (PI.  V — B6)  Broadway  and  63rd  st.  (300  R.  300  B.) 
Moderate  prices.  (R.  Single  $1.  With  B.  $1.50.  Double  "$1.50.  With 
B.  $2.     Suite  $2.) 

*  Marie  Antoinette.  (Pl.  V— Bs)  Broadway  and  66th  st.  (500  R. 
300  B.)     A  large  and  elaborate  family  hotel.  (R.  Single  $3.  Double  $4<) 

Walton.  Columbus  ave.  and  7oth^t.  (no  R.)  (R.  Single  $2. 
Witji  B.  $3.     Double  with  B.  $4.)  ^ 

Sherman  Square.  Broadway  and  71st  st.  (400  R.)  (R.  Single  $x. 
With  B.  $1.50.     Double  $2.50.     With  B.  $3.) 

Belleclaire.  Broadway  and  77th  st.  (336  R.  310  B.)  Rates  on 
application. 

Lucerne.  Amsterdam  ave.  and  79th  st.  (300  R.  300  B.)  Apart- 
ments and  rooms  by  week  or  transient.  (Winter  rates:  R.  Single 
with  B.  $2.  Suite  tor  i  or  2,  $3.  Summer  rates:  Single  R.  with  B. 
$1.50.     Suite  for  i  or  2,  $2.)     Table  d'hote  and  club  breakfasts. 

Endicott.  Columbus  ave.  and  8ist  st.  (500  R.  300  B.)  Quiet 
family  hotel.     R.  Single  $1.     With  B.  $1.50.     Double  $2.) 

*  Brettoni  Hall.  Broadway  and  86th  st.  (600  R.  600  B.)  Ex- 
tremely good  family  hotel.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $2.50.  Double  with 
B.  $3.) 

Bonta  Narragansett.  Broadway  and  94th  st.  (250  R.  ^so  B.) 
(R.  Single  with  B.  $2.     Double  with  B.  $3.) 

Clendening.     202  W.  103d  st.     (215  R.    80  B.)    (R.  all  suites,  $2.) 

Marseilles.  Broadway  and  103d  st.  (300  R.  150  B.)  (R.  Single 
$1.50.     With  B.  $2.) 

Majestic.  (PI.  V— Bs)  Central  Park  West  and  72nd  st.  (700  R.) 
Faces  Central  Park.  Family  hotel.  (R.  Single  $i.5a  With  B.  $2.50. 
Double  $2.     With  B.  $3.) 


HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  HOUSES  13 

Hargrave.  112  W.  72nd  st.  (300  R.)  Near  Central  Park  and 
Riverside  Drive.  Some  of  the  single  rooms  with  baths  are  fur- 
nished with  davenport  beds  so  that  the  room  can  be  used  as  a  parlor. 
(R.  Single  with  B.  $2.     Suites  $3.) 

*Ansoiiia.  (PI.  V — ^As)  Broadway  and  73^  st.  (1400  R.)  A  huge 
family  hotel;  physician,  drug  stored  bank,  tailor,  wine  and  cig;ar  store, 
florist,  dentist,  barber,  manicuring,  notary  public,  etc.  Facilities  for 
private  dinners  and  entertainments.  Special  facilities  for  families 
visiting  the  city.  (R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $2.50.  Double  $2.50.  With 
B.  $3.     Suites  $8.)     (See  restaurants,  p.  22.) 

San  Remo.  Central  Park  West  and  74th  st.  Family  hotel. 
(R.  Single  $1.50.  With  B.  $2.50.  Double  $2.  With  B.  $3.50.)  Also 
American  prices  upon   application.    . 

WlUard.  252  W.  76th  St.  (120  R.)  "Special  attention  to  ladies 
traveling  alone."  No  bar.  (Winter  rates:  R.  Single  with  B. 
$2.  Suite  for  i  or  2,  $3.  Summer  rates:  R.  Single  with  B.  $1.50. 
Suite  for  i  or  2,  $2.  Ai)artments  rented  also  on  a  weekly-  rate. 
American  rates  on  application.) 

Roland.  (IV— Gi)  56  E.  sgth  st.  (157  R-  i57  B.)  (R.  Single 
with  B.  $1.50.     Double  with  B.  $2.     Special  weekly  rates.) 

Number  14,  East  Sixtieth  Street.  (IV— H2)  14  £.  60th  st.  (300  R. 
300  B.)  A  luxurious  apartment  hotel.  (R.  Single  with  B.  $4  R.  and 
alcove  with  B.  $5.     2  R.  with  B.  $6.) 

Leonori.  (IV — 13)  Madison  ave.  and  63d  st.  (200  R.  120  B. 
Chiefly   apartments.     (A  few   single   R.   with   B.  $3.) 

(f)    Hotel  Acconunodatians  for  Women 

All  of  the  large  hotels  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Grand 
Central  Terminal  state  that  women  arriving  unescorted  in  the 
evening  are  received  without  parley.  In  general  it  may  be 
stated  that  the  old  bugaboo  of  women  being  refused  admittance 
to  hotels  on  this  score  no  longer  obtains  in  large  hotels  in 
New  York  City.  In  some  of  the  smaller  ones  the  naive  sup- 
position still  lingers  that  a  woman  who  comes  to  a  hotel  at 
night  without  a  man  can  hardly  be  respectable.  By  telephon- 
ing from  the  station  one  can  avoid  the  possibility  of  this 
annoyance  and  also  ascertain  whether  or  not  a  suitable  room 
is  obtainable.  The  Martha  Washington  is  open  all  night. 
The  McAlpin  has  a  special  floor  reserved  for  women.  Hotels 
which  advertise  especially  for  women  guests  are  mentioned  in 
the  lists.  Curiously  enough,  many  of  the  philanthropic  hotels 
for  women  are  extremely  stiff  about  evening  arrivals.  If  you 
lose  the  last  train  to  the  suburb  or  are  locked  out  of  your 
boarding  house,  go  to  a  big  hotel  and  spare  yourself  the 
annoyance  of  insults.  Guests  without  baggage  pay  in  advance. 

In  the  matter  of  restaurants,  all  the  hotel  restaurants  ex- 
cepting some  grills  and  cafes,  are  open  to  women  in  the  even- 
ing. The  ordinary  restaurants  and  foreign  table  d'hote  places 
consider  a  woman's  money  as  good  as  a  man's.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  large  cabarets,  where  profit  comes  largely  from 


14  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

extravagant  food  and  wine  orders,  frequently  bar  out  women 
unaccompanied  by  men.  Some  of  them  reserve  a  less  desir- 
able room  away  from  the  dancing  and  entertainment  where 
they  segregate  tmescorted  women  and  allow  them  to  give 
their  modest  orders.  Some  of  these  places  also  run  special 
noon  luncheons  for  ladies,  when  they  welcome  them  in  the 
large  and  empty  dancing  rooms.  Two  women  can  go  about 
New  York  City  in  the  evening  with  exactly  the  same  freedom 
as  can  a  man  and  a  woman,  if  they  conduct  themselves  with 
dignity  and  assurance,  expect  proper  service,  and  pay  the 
usual  tips.  The  Claridge  (p.  ii)  offers  an  "official  hostess," 
who  will  accompany  ladies  to  the  theatre,  arrange  visits  to 
places  of  interest,  give  aid  in  shopping,  etc.,  without  charge. 

Women's  Hotels.    Many  hotels  advertise  special  attention 

paid  to  women  traveling  alone,  as  indicated  in  the  preceding 

lists.    A  few  are  run  exclusively  for  women. 

*  Martlia  Washington.  (PI.  Ill — D4)  ag  E.  apth  st.  (450  R.)  For  women; 
men  admitted  to  restaurant  and  tea'  room,  otherwise  like  any  other 
well-conducted  hotel.  (R.  with  hot  water  $z.5a  With  B.  $3.  Double 
with  hot  water  la.50.     With  B.  $4.     Weekly  rates.) 

Margaret  Louisa  Home.  14  E.  i6th  st.  A  temporary  home  for 
the  accommodation  of  Protestant  self-supporting  women.  -  Appli- 
cants for  admission  are  required  to  fill  out  a  blank  giving  name, 
address,  occupation,  church  denomination,  the  name  and  address  of  a 
relative  or  friend  who  could  be  communicated  with  in  case  of  illness 
or  other  emergency,  and  the  name  and  address  of  a  reliable  person, 
not  a  relative,  as  reference.  In  making  application  sufficient  time 
should  be  allowed  for  a  reply  in  regard  to  rooms^  and  should  be 
accompanied  by  particulars  showing  that  the  applicant  is  eligible. 
(R.  Single  85c.  and  90c.  Double  $1.20  and  $1.70.)  Luncheon  25c. 
Dinner  40c. 

Rutledge,  163  Lexington  ave. 

Toung  Women's  Christian  Association.  7  £.  15th  st.  The 
following  branches  have  boarding  accommodations  for  women. 
Application  should  be  made  in  advance  of  arrival  at  the  Central 
Branch  in  7  £.  15th  st.  Margaret  Louisa  Home,  14  £.  i6th  st.  French 
Branch,  124  W.  i6th  st.  International  Institute  for  Young  Women,  113 
£.  34th  St.  Central  Club  for  Nurses,  132  E.  45th  st.  West  Side 
Branch.  460  W.  44th  st.  Studio  Club  of  New  York  City,  35  E.  62nd  st. 
Natl.  Board  Training  School,  135  E.  sand  st.  Harlem  Brandi,  72  W. 
124th  St. 

Young  Women's  Hebrew  Association*  31  W.  iioth  st.  Accom- 
modates 150  women. 

(g)    Furnished  Rooms 

Furnished  rooms  are  advertised  in  the  evening  papers 
and  by  signs  in  windows.  The  prices  vary  from  $3  weekly  for 
a  small  airshaft  or  skylight  room  to  $10  for  a  suite.  The 
usual  price  is  $5  to  $6.  The  understanding  should  be  distinct 
as  to  whether  or  not  light,  heat,  and  service  are  included. 
Sometimes  arrangement  can  be  made  for  breakfast  to  be 


HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  HOUSES  IS 

served  in  the  room.  Extreme  care  should  be  used  by  women  in 
choosing  them.  The  Young  Women's  Christian  Association, 
7  E.  15th  St  (office  hours,  9-6;  7-9),  has  a  list  of  places  of 
guaranteed  respectability. 

Much,  however,  depends  upon  the  locality.  The  cross- 
town  blocks  from  40th  to  50th  st.,  between  6th  and  8th  aves. 
abound  in  lodging  houses,  largely  frequented  by  the  theatrical 
profession,  and  many  of  them  of  sordid  and  unkempt  ap- 
pearance. The  less  central  districts,  such  as  the  blocks 
adjacent  to  lower  Fifth  ave.,  or  the  neighborhood  around 
Gramercy  Park,  are  a  much  safer  choice,  being  not  only  more 
respectable,  but  decidedly  cheaper  (see  section  on  Expenses, 
p.  38).  There  are,  of  course,  furnished  rooms  to  be  had 
in  the  neighborhood  of  upper  Fifth  ave.,  and  in  the  cross- 
streets  adjacent  to  Riverside  Drive.  In  these  neighborhoods, 
however,  signs  are  rarely  displayed,  and  a  stranger  in  the 
city  can  find  them  only  by  watching  the  newspapers. 

For  the  benefit  of  strangers  of  other  nationalities,  the  following 
suggestions  are  made:  on  the  cross  streets  west  of  7th  ave.,  between 
23d  and  40th  sts.  ,are  many  French  rooming  houses  and  a  few  boarding 
houses.  North  of  14th  st.,  in  vicinity  of  Irving  Place,  there  are  many 
very  unpretentious  German  houses,  where  rooms  can  be  had  quite 
economically,  either  with  or  without  board.  On  W.  14th  st.  beyond 
7th  ave.,  are  several  houses  of  the  family  hotel  type,  catering  ex- 
clusively to  Spaniards.  In  the  case  of  Italians  the  problem  is  less 
simple.  Down  in  the  eastside  Italian  quarter,  there  are  numerous 
respectable  Italian  hotels  and  boarding  houses;  but  they  are  fre- 
quented, mainly,^  by  the  lower  middle  class,  on  their  way  to  permanent 
homes  in  America.  The  upper  claims  Italians  of  limited  means,  will 
generally  find  large  and  comfortable  rooms,  at  surprisingly  low  rates 
in  the  houses  occupied  by  the  Italian  table  d'hote  restaurants,  especially 
in  the  Greenwich  neighborhood. 

(h)    Suites  and  Furnished  Apartments 

Visitors  expecting  to  make  a  somewhat  extended  stay 
in  the  city,  may  find  it  advantageous  to  take  a  furnished 
apartment.  There  are  many  apartments  to  be  had  at  any 
season  of  the  year,  by  the  week  or  month,  completely  fur- 
nished, including  household  linen  and  kitchen  and  table 
service,  at  an  average  cost  of  from  forty  to  fifty  per  cent, 
advance  over  the  cost  of  the  unfurnished  apartment.  In  some 
cases  they  are  run  by  4he  owner  of  the  building,  in  other 
cases  by  a  tenant,  who  rents  several  apartments  and  sublets 
them,  furnished,  at  his  own  risk.  The  majority  of  these  are 
in  the  less  central  districts,  and  especially  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Columbia  University  and  125th  st.  They  may  best 
be  found  by  watching  for  advertisements  in  the  newspapers. 


i6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  OTY 

The  New  York  Herald  (morning)  and  particularly  the 
Telegram  (evening)  carry  by  far  the  largest  amount  of 
advertising  of  this  class.  The  Times  (morning)  carries  less, 
but  of  a  somewhat  higher  grade. 

In  addition  to  these,  it  is  possible  at  almost  any  time 
to  find  apartments  which  tenants,  leaving  the  city  temporarily, 
wish  to  sublet.  During  the  New  York  season  such  an  arrange- 
ment would  seldom  work  to  the  advantage  of  the  transient 
tourist,  the  great  majority  of  sublet  apartments  being  offered 
for  the  balance  of  the  year's  lease,  (i.  e.,  until  the  following 
October).  During  the  summer,  however,  many  families  are 
glad  to  secure  tenants  for  two  or  three  months,' at  a  fraction 
of  their  own  rental;  and  sumptuous  apartments  can  often 
be  obtained  at  low  rates.  Advertisements  ^  appear  in  the 
newspapers  and  some  real  estate  agents  make  a  specialty  of 
this  branch.  Apartment  hotels  have  many  suites  vacant  in 
summer  which  they  rent  at  a  lower  rate.  Some  of  these  are 
indicated  in  the  hotel  lists.  In  many  other  cases  one  can 
make  satisfactory  arrangements  by  inquiring  at  the  hotel. 
More  and  more,  Southern  families  are  coming  to  New  York 
for  the  summer  months  and  many  are  availing  themselves  of 
these  opportunities. 

Among  the  more  reliable  real  estate  agents  to  whom 
application  may  be  made  are  the  following:  The  J.  Romaine 
Brown  Company^  299  Madison  ave. ;  Pease  and  Elliman,  340 
Madison  ave.;  Douglas  Robinson,  Charles  S.  Brown  Com- 
pany, 10  East  45th  St.;  Horace  S.  Ely  and  Company,  480  5th 
ave. ;  F.  R.  Wood,  W.  H.  Dolson  Company,  main  office  Broad- 
way and  8oth  st.  (82  branches)  ;  Mark  Rafalsky  and  Com- 
pany, 527  5th  ave. 

(i)    Boarding  Houses,  Pensions 

Good  board  can  be  obtained  in  New  York  from  $10  to 
$20  a  week.  List  of  boarding  houses  (pensions)  may  be 
obtained  from  the  Young  Women's  Christian  Association, 
and  from  the  evening  papers,  particularly  the  Telegram. 
In  general  lower  Lexington  ave.  neighborhood  boarding 
houses  should  not  be  chosen  without  previous  knowledge,  nor 
those  on  the  west  side  from  about  /^d  st.  to  50th  (see  p.  15). 
A  clear  understanding  should  be  arrived  at  before  engaging 
board  as  to  what  is  included.  Light,  heat,  and  service  and 
the  use  of  the  bath,  are  usually  given. 


BATHS,  BARBER  SHOPS,  ETC.  17 

III.    Baths,  Barber  Shops,  etc. 

The  hotels  of  New  York  are  equipped  more  liberally  with 

private  bath  rooms  than  those  of  any  other  metropolitan  city, 

in  fact  the  present  tendency  in  the  newer  hotels  is  to  supply 

a  private  bath  room  with  every  bed  room. 

3ath8.  Hot  and  cold  baths  may  be  obtained  at  all  the  hotels 
(25-75C.  usual  additional  charge  for  private  bathroom.  No  charge 
is  usually  made  for  the  use  of  hotel  public  baths).  Turkish  baths 
(5oc.-$i.5o)  may  be  obtained  at  the  following:  LafayetU  Baths,  40S 
Lafayette  St.;  Everard,  26  W.  28th  St.;  Produce  Exchange,  6  Broad- 
way; Mayer,  46  W.  124th  St.;  Murray  Hill  Bmhs,  164  W.  79th  St.; 
Fleischman  Baths,  113  W.  43d  St.;  Hollender's  39lhs,  158  W.  125th  St.; 
Meffert,  Woolworth  Building.  The  Everard  and  Fleischman  baths  are 
amon^  those  which  have  special  hours  for  ladies.  There  is  not  a  wide 
variation  in  the  charges.  At  the  Everard  Baths,  for  example,  they  are: 
Plain  Bath,  50c.;  Turkish  or  Russian  Bath,  $1.25;  Nauheim,  Carlsbad 
or  Vichy  Bath,  $3.00.  Practically  all  the  Turkish  bath  houses  have 
plunges  or  swimmine  pools.  These  offer  the  casual  tourist  about  the 
only  facilities  New  York  has  for  swimming  in  winter,  there  being  no 
extensive  natatoriums. 

Salt  Water  Swimming  Baths,  at  the  Battery  (25  cents;  warm,  30 
cents).  There  are  also  several  Free  Public  Baths,  both  on  the  Hudsoi^ 
and  the  East  River,  visited  annually  by  5-6  million  bathers  (June^ 
September).  The  People's  Baths,  9  Centre  Market  Place,  are  also 
free    (separate  rooms,  5  cents). 

There'  are  also  Interior  Free  Baths  for  men  and  women  open  the 
entire  year  from  6  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.;  326  Rivington  St.;  133  Allen  st.; 
538  £.  ixth  St.;  23d  St.  and  Ave.  A;  347  W.  41st  St.;  34^^*  54th  St.; 
232  W.  60th  St.;  532  £.  76th  St.;  243  £.  109th  St.;  83-85  Carmine  St., 
cor.  Oliver  and  Cherry  sts.  None  of  these  free  baths  are  recom- 
.  mended  to  the  tourist. 

• 

Barber  Shops.  Good  barber  shops  are  to  be  found  in  all 
the  leading  hotels,  in  the  Grand  Central,  Pennsylvania  and 
Hudson  Terminals,  and  in  many  of  the  principal  office  build- 
ings, such  as  the  Whitehall  Building,  the  Singer  Building,  the 
Flatiron  Building,  the  Times  Building,  etc  The  customary 
charges  are:  hair-cut,  25-35  cents;  shampoo,  25  cents;  shave 
15-25  cents. 

Ladies*  Hair-Dressrrs :  A.  Simonson,  506  5th  Ave.;  Herman  J, 
Bosch,  Biltmore  Hotel;  Frances  O.  Harvey,  i  W.  34th  St.;  Mmg.  Fried, 

15  W.  34th  St.;  Phillipe,  Hotel  Imperial;   Considine,  20  E.  46tfa  St.; 
OgUvie  Sisters,  509  5th  Ave. 

Manicures.  There  are  manicures  to  be  had  in  most 
of  the  leading  hotels,  barber  shops  and  hair-dressing  estab- 
lishments; also  in  many  of  the  department  stores.  The 
following  is  a  partial  list  of  manicure  parlors  in  the  central 
Fifth  ave.  district. 

Astoria  Manicure  Parlor,  366  5th  ave.;  Criterion  Manicure  Parlor, 

16  W.  33d  St.;  Ideal  Manicure  Parlor;  45  W.  34th  st.;  Bristol  Manicure 
Parlor,   500   5th  ave. 


i8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

IV.    Restaurants  and  Tea  Rooms 

• 

The  restaurant  life  in  New  York  is  of  great  interest  to 
visitors.  The  eating  places  vary  from  the  world  famous 
Delmonico's  on  Sth  ave.  to  almost  unknown  foreign  houses 
on  the  side  streets,  and  each  has  its  own  peculiar  personality. 
The  restaurants  of  the  larger  hotels  are  so  distinctly  indepen- 
dent of  the  houses  that  they  are  here  listed  as  separate  enter- 
prises. They  usually  offer  music,  dancing  and  cabaret  enter- 
tainment like  that  of  the  large  show  restaurants.  Tables  may 
be  reserved  by  telg^hone.  Service  is  usually  a  la  carte  and 
prices  in  the  cabarets  often  range  high.  One  order  of  meat 
and  of  vegetables  is  often  enough  for  two  persons  and  two 
orders  enough  for  three  persons.  Sometimes  an  extra  charge 
is  made  for  serving  one  order  to  two.  Where  table  d'hote  is 
also  served  the  price  is  given  in  following  lists.  The  foreign 
restaurants  usually  specialize  on  table  d'hote  dinners,  often 
having  no  a  la  carte;  the  food  is  usually  fair  and  the 
prices  low. 

Although  the  distinction  is  properly  made  between  Ameri- 
can and  foreign  restaurants  in  New  York,  in  point  of  fact 
the  city  practically  has  no  strictly  American  restaurants,  with 
food  cooked  in  the  native  manner  and  served  in  the  simple 
home  style.  The  few  exceptions  are  some  of  the  oyster 
houses,  dairy  lunch  rooms  and  an  occasional  tea  room  that 
specializes  in  southern  dishes  prepared  by  a  negro  cook. 
But  in  general,  the  whole  New  York  restaurant  service  rests 
on  a  basis  of  Continental  cooking.  In  the  leading  houses  the 
chef  is  French;  in  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  others, 
he  is  German,  Viennese  or  Italian.  The  waiters  are  almost 
uniformly  foreign.  In  fact,  the  main  distinction  between  the 
American  and  the  foreign  restaurant  is  that  the  former 
professes  to  cater  to  the  American  taste,  while  the  latter 
tends  to  exaggerate  its  foreign  features  and  make  the  most 
of  their  advertising  value. 

Hours  for  Meals.  In  the  leading  hotels  and  restaurants, 
some  of  the  dining  rooms  at  least,  are  open  from  early  morn- 
ing until  late  at  night.  As  most  business  offices  open  at 
9  o'clock,  the  usual  hour  for  breakfast  is  from  8  o'clock  on- 
ward. Where  a  table  d'hote  luncheon  is  served  the  customary 
hours  are  from  12  to  2.30;  table  d'hote  dinners  are  served 
from  6  to  8.30  p.  m.  The  average  hour  at  which  fashionable 
New  York  dines  is  between  7  and  7.30  p.  m.,  this  hour  being 
in  a  measure  dictated  by  the  fact  that  at  the  leading  theatres 
and  other  places  of  entertainment,  the  evening  performance 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  19 

begins  between  8.15  and  8.30.  The  fashionable  tea  rooms  are 
open  throughout  the  afternoon,  but  are  most  frequented  be- 
tween 4.30  and  5.  Most  restaurants  and  lunch  rooms  in  the 
downtown  business  section  are  closed  evenings,  Simdays 
and  holidays. 

Wine,  Beer,  etc.  In  practically  all  first  class  hotels  and 
restaurants,  ales,  wines  and  liquors  may  be  ordered  with 
meals,  even  on  Sundays;  also  in  the  great  majority  of  the 
less  pretentious  houses.  In  most  of  the  table  d'hote  res- 
taurants, under  French  or  Italian  management,  wine  or  beer 
is  included  in  the  price  of  the  meal,  the  wine  being  usually 
an  inferior  grade  of  California  claret.  The  charges  for  im- 
ported wines  of  the  finer  grades  are  distinctly  high;  indeed, 
to  the  foreigner,  accustomed  to  the  moderate  prices  in  vogue 
upon  the  continent,  they  appear  little  less  than  extortionate. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  better  grade  of  California  wines  may 
be  had  at  much  more  reasonable  cost,  and  their  quality,  year 
by  year,  is  improving.  Ale  and  porter  are  little  in  demand 
Beer,  on  the  contrary,  is  consumed  in  enormous  quantities, 
there  being  between  thirty  and  forty  large  breweries  within 
the  limits  of  Greater  New  York.  Imported  German  beers 
(Pilsner,  Miinchener  arid  Kulmbacher,  etc.),  may  be  had  on 
draught,  usually  at  double  the  prices  of  native  beer,  at  the 
principal  German  restaurants  and  beer-gardens. 

It  may  be  said  in  general,  that  while  the  use  of  wine  or 
beer  with  meals  is  far  commoner  in  New  York  than  in  other 
American  cities — owing  to  its  cosmopolitan  character— :it  is 
far  from  being  a  customary  habit;  and  at  a  majority  of  the 
restaurants  the  casual  visitor  is  likely  to  see  a  much  larger 
proportion  of  tables  where  drinks  are  not  served  than  where 
they  are. 

Within  the  last  few  years,  a  new  feature  in  restaurant 
life,  the  Cabaret,  has  assumed  such  elaborate  proportions  as, 
in  some  cases,  to  rival  the  regular  vaudeville  shows.  In  the 
following  lists,  the  restaurants  offering  music,  dancing,  and 
cabaret  performances  are  specifically  mentioned,  not  only 
for  the  benefit  of  guests  who  like  such  features,  but  also  in 
order  that  they  may  be  avoided  by  diners  who  prefer  to  take 
their  meals  in  quiet. 

a.    Downtown  Restaurants 

A  great  majority  of  restaurants  in  the  downtown  business 
and  financial  sections  are  exclusively  for  men,  are  open  during 
business  hours  only,  and  a  considerable  proportion  of  them 


20  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

are  of  the  "quick  lunch"  order.    There  are,  however,  k  few 
that  are  justly  famous. 

**Delino]ilco'8,  56  Beaver  St.,  the  old  established  down-town  branch 
of  the  most  famous  restaurant  in  New  York.  A  la  carte.  **Sayarln 
Kest&ttrant  and  Caf6,  120  Broadway  (Equitable  Building);  named 
after  Brillat  Savarin,  the  noted  French  gastronomist,  and  famous  for 
its  cuisine.  A  la  carte.  *Frattncea'  Tayem  (PI.  II— -C5),  a  restaurant 
on  the  lower  floor  of  the  famous  old  colonial  building  at  loi  Broad  st. 
Attendants  in  colonial  costume.  (For  description  see  p.  123.)  'Whyte's 
Restaurant,  145  Fulton  st.    S.  X.  Robins,  54  Broad  st. 

Kalll's,  26-30  Park  Place.  Venetian  Garden.  A  la  carte. 
Haan,  13  Park  Row.  *6arret,  140  Cedar  st.  Open-air,  a  la  carte,  music, 
dancing  8  a.  m. — 8  p.  m.  Physical  Culttire,  656  Broadway,  near 
Bleecker.  Also  85  Bleecker.  Vegetarian,  a  la  carte.  Broadwi^  Cen- 
tral Hotel,  Broadway  and  3d  st.  A  la  carte  and  table  d'hote.  Sunday 
shore  dinner  $1.  St.  Denis  Hotel,  Broadway  and  nth  st.  (See  p.  8.) 
A  la  carte.  Lunch  (11-3)  in  the  grill  35c.  Dinner  (6-8:30)  75c. 
Fleischmann's,  Broadway  and  nth  st.  A  Xsl  carte.  Specially  bread, 
rolls,    pastries.     Halloran's,   213  6th  ave.,   near   nth   st.     A   la   carte. 

b.    Middletown  Restaurants 

Note:      Most    of    the    after- theatre    and    cabaret    restaurants    are 
in  this  section. 

Hotel  Prince  George.     (PI.  Ill— E4)     14  E.  28th  st.     (See  p.  9). 
Dining    room;     Grill;    Tea    room.      A    la    carte.      Special    teas     in 
dimly    lighted    tea    room,    50c.    and    75c.      Hotel    Breslin.      (PI.    Ill — 
D4)       Broadway     and    29th     st.       (See    p.     9.)       Employs     an    East 
Indian   chef   who    specializes   ip   curries.      Restaurant;    Grill.     A    la 
carte.     Hotel  Imperial.     (PI.  Ill — D3)     Broadway  and  31st  st.     (See 
p.  9.)  Restaurant;  Cafe;  Palm  Garden.    A  la  carte.    Hotel  Martinique. 
(PI.  Ill — C3)   Broadway  and  32d  st.      (See  p.  9.)     Main  Restaurant, 
music  during  lunch  and  dinner;  Tea  room,  vocal  concert  in  afternoon; 
Cameo  Room  off  the  main  lobby,   morning  sun  for  breakfast;   Dutch 
Room  Grill,  complete  vaudeville  show  during  dinner  and  after  theatre 
A  la  carte.     Park  Avenue  Hotel  (PI.  Ill— E3)  4th  ave.  and  33rd  st." 
Main  Restaurant;  Palm  Court,  out-of-doors,  fountain,  quiet,  delighful; 
prices  reasonable.  A  la  carte.  *Hotel  Vanderbilt.  (Pl.  Ill — E2)  Madison 
ave.  and  34th  st.  (See  p.  7.)  Palm  Garden  Restaurant  to  left  of  lobby^ 
sculptured  frieze;  Della  Robbia  Restaurant  in  blue  and  white,  gallery, 
vaulted  roof,  frescoed  walls;  Roof  Garden;  Chinese  Buffet,  34th  st. 
side;  The  Crypt,  gentlemen's  cafe  and  bar,  33d  st.   side.     A  la  carte. 
••Waldorf-Astoria.    (PI.   Ill— D2)   5th   ave.   and  34th   st.     (See  p.   7.) 
Waldorf  Restaurant,  33rd  st.  corner,  notice  brass  work  and  paneling; 
Astoria  Restaurant,  34th  st.  corner,  murals  made  by  Turner;  Waldorf 
Palm  Garden  with  revolving  dome;  Astoria  Palm  Garden,  medallions 
near  ceiling;  Gentlemen's  Cafe,  34th  st.  and  Astor  Court.     A  la  carte. 
•Hotel  McAlpin.     (PI.  Ill— C3)     Broadway  and  34th  st.     (See  p.  10.) 
Louis  XVI  Restaurant,  music  by  Nahan  Franko's  orchestra;  Grill  in 
style  of  Spanish   Renaissance,   walls  and  ceilings  of  tiles  with   remark- 
j°^T    ^^^*^^"^    *^^®    paneling;     Men's    Cafe    and    Bar    on     Broadway; 
daily    Thes    Dansants    in    the    ballroom   on   the   24th    floor,    music    by 
Franko;  Ladies'  Cafe;  Roof  Garden.    A  la  carte.    Hotel  Marlborough. 
Broadway   and    26th    st.      (See   p.    10.)      A   la   carte;    Luncheon    50c. 
Dinner  $1   or  $1.25.     •Maxim's,     no   W.   38th   st.     A  famous    "smart" 
restaurant.     A  la  carte.     Music,  dancing,  cabaret  from  6:30  to   close 
High     prices.      Special     ladies'     luncheon     at     noon;     6    courses     6oc 
Lorbers.    1420  Broadway  near  39th  st.     Formerly  on  Grand  st      A  la 
carte,  music,  dancing.    Hotel  Navarre.  (PI.  Ill— Bi)  7th  ave.  and  38th 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  21 


/ 


St.  (See  p.  10.)  Restaurant;  Roof  Gaiiden.  A  la  carte.  CaW  des 
Beaux  Arts.  6th  ave.  and  40th  st.  A  la  carte.  Popular  afterthcatrc 
place.  Bustanoby's.  6th  ave.  and  40th  st.  Also  Broadway  and  60th 
St.  A  la  carte;  music,  dancing,  cabaret.  Lunch  see.  Dinner  6-9  $1.50. 
Hotel  Belmont.  (PI.  IV — E3)  Park  ave.  and  4«nd  st.,  opposite  Grand 
Central  Terminal.  (See  p.  10.)  Main  Dinning  Room;  Garden  Dining 
Room;  Grill.  Roof  Garden.  A  la  carte.  Hotel  Manliattan  (PI.  IV — E3). 
42d  St.  and  Madison  ave.,  near  Grand  Central  Terminal.  (See  p.  10). 
North  Restaurant;  South  Restaurant.  Palm  Court  or  Tea  Room; 
Cafe;  Bar.  A  la  carte.  ♦♦Hotel  Knlckeibocker.  (PI.  IV— C3> 
Broadway  and  42nd  st.  (See  5.  10)  Main  Restaurant,  left  of 
42nd  at.  entrance,  electric  fountains,  tapestries,  rugs;  Flower  Room, 
adjoining,  painting  "Pantomime  of  Flora,"  by  James  Wall  Finn,  tinted 
marble  panel  of  Aphrodite  by  John  Flanagan;  Cafe  in  whi«^e  and  gold, 
oDening  off  the  ground-floor  lobby;  Grill,  finished  in  English  oak, 
Flemish  ceiling,  paintings,  canvas  by  Remington,  "Trophies  of  the 
Chase";  Main  Bar,  at  rear  of  ist  floor  Lobby,  paneled  in  English  oak. 
painting,  "Old  King  Cole,"  by  Maxfield  Parrish;  wines  from  cellars  of 
Buckingham  Palace  and  Windsor.  A  la  carte.  Marray's.  228  W. 
42nd  St.  near  Broadway.  Roof  garden,  music,  danrmg.  A  la 
rprte.  Luncheon  6oc.  Dinner  $1.25.  *Hotel  Biltmore.  (PI.  IV — E3) 
Madison  ave.  and  43d  st.  (See  p.^  8.)  Restaurant,  marble  walls  and 
exquisite  hangings;  Cafe  finished  in  smoked  oak  with  raftered  ceiling; 
Grill  room  for  luncheon  and  informal  dinners;  Palm  Court  for  coffee 
and  smoking;  Formal  Garden  with  out-of-door  service  for  afternoon 
tea.  A  la  carte.  Shanley*!.  (PI.  IV — B3)  Broadway  and  4ird  st.  Music, 
dancing,  cabaret  from  7  p.  m.  to  i  a  m.  A  la  carte.  6  course  luncheon 
at  noon  7sc.  ♦•Sherry's.  (PI.  IV — D3)  5th  ave.  and  4fth  st.  Shares  with 
Delmonico's  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  fashionable  restaurant. 
A  la  carte.  Music,  dancing.  ♦♦Delmonico's.  (PI.  IV — D3)  sth  av*?  and 
44th  St.  The  most  famous  restaurant  in  the  city.  A  la  carte.  Music, 
dancing.  Hotel  Gerard.  (PL  IV — C3)  44th  st.  betw.  Broadway  a^d  6th 
ave.  (See  p.  11.)  Small  and  quiet.  A  la  carte.  Lunch  50c.  Dinner 
(5.30  to  8:30)  75c.  ♦Hotel  Clarldge.  (PI.  IV — C3)  Broadway  and  44th  st. 
(See  p.  II.)  Specialties,  oysters,  fowl,  and  cream.  A  la  carte,  no 
cabaret,  quiet,  good  service,  music.  ♦♦Hotel  Astor.  (PI.  IV — B3)  Broad- 
way and  44th  St.  (See  p.  8.)  Main  Dining  Room;  Orangery,  espe- 
cially pleasant  for  afternoon  tea;  Indian  Hall  (for  description  see 
p.  171) ;  Roof  Garden.  A  la  carte.  ♦♦Hotel  Rltz-Carlton.  PI.  IV — £2^ 
Madison  ave.  and  46th  st.  (See  p.  7.)  Main  Restaurant,  entered 
from  Palm  Room  by  short  flight  of  stairs,  a  charming  room  in  white 
and  robin's  egg  green,  with  Girandole  mirrors,  reproduced  from  the 
eighteenth  century,  Adams'  originals,  Georgian  windows,  evening 
lighting  from  the  •cornice;  Pall  Mall  Room,  used  for  overflow  from 
main  restaurant;  Grill,  paneled  in  oak;  Tea  Room;  Palm  Room, 
where  tea  is  also  served,  A  la  carte.  Rector's.  (PI  IV — ^B2)  1600 
Broadway,  near  48th  st.  Moved  from  44th  st.  The  smartest  after- 
theatre  restaurant.  A  la  carte.  Music,  cabaret,  dancing  till  3:30 
a.  m.  Prices  high.  Churchill's.  (PI.  IV— Ba)  Broadway  and  4gth  st. 
After  •  theatre  restaurant,  not  quite  up  to  Rector's.  A  la  carte. 
Prices  cheaper.  .*St  Regis  Hotel.  5th  ave.  and  5i;th  st.  (See 
p.  7.)  Main  Restaurant;  Oak  Room.  A  la  carte.  The  Parisian. 
Sth  ave.  and  56th  st.  Music,  dancing,  cabaret,  a  la  carte, 
special  dinner  $1.  Reisenweber's.  8  ave.  at  Columbus  Circle 
Music,  dancing,  cabaret,  a  la  carte.  Dinner  (6  to  9)  $1.  Special 
dinner  in  Grill  $1.25.  Hotel  Savoy.  5th  ave.  and  «;9th 
St.  (See  p.  .12.)  Restaurant  facing  5th  ave.;  Palm  Garden  Res- 
taurant; Gentlemen's  Cafe  (td'h  dinner,  $1);  Bar;  Balcony  Out- 
of-door  Restaurant  overlooking  the  Plaza.  A  la  carte.  ♦Hotel  Plaza. 
5th    ave.     and  S9th     st.       (See     p.     8.)     Restaurant;     Grill;  •  Tea- 


22  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ROOM.  A  la  carte.  Healy*!.  Broadway  and  66th  st.  Music,  dancing. 
Large  ballroom.  A  la  carte.  Hotel  Ansonla.  (PI.  V — B5)  Broad- 
way and  73d  St.  (See  p.  13.)  Main  Dining  Room,  S.  W.  corner 
of  73d  St.  side,  six  panels  by  Harry  Stoner;  Cape,  Hun^rian  string 
orchestra,  electric  fountain.  A  la  carte.  Rlggs.  36  W.  20th  st. 
Also  43  W.  33d  St.  Low  prices.  A  la  carte.  Dorlon's.  6  E.  23d  St., 
Madison  Square.  Long  established.  A  la  carte.  Specialties  oys- 
ters and  fish.  Fifth  Avenue  Restaurant.  Fifth  Avenue  Building 
corner  5th  ave.  and  23d  st.  A  la  carte.  Dinner  $1.50.  Cava- 
nagh's.  258-260  W.  23d  St.  "Courtesies  to  ladies  unattended." 
A  la  carte.  Specialties,  shell  fish,  oysters^  chops,  steaks. 
Castle  Cave.  271  7th  ave.,  near  26th  st.  A  la  carte.  Grill.  Specialty, 
meats  broiled  over  hickory  embers.  Strand  Roof.  Broadway 
and  47th  St.  Music  and  cabaret.  Lunch  50c.  Dinner  $z.oo. 
176  Madison  Avenue  Restaurant.  Near  34th  st.  Low  prices.  A  la 
carte.  Dinner  500.  Mills  Hotel  (PI.  Ill — B2)  36th  st.  and  7th  ave. 
Lunch  II  :3o-2,  25c.  Dinner  5:30-8,  30c.  Hotel  Athens.^  42d  st.  opposite 
Grand  Central  Station.  A  la  carte.  Good  food.  Quick  service.  Low 
prices.  Jack's.  761  6th  ave.,  near  43rd  st.  Formerly  the  only  res- 
taurant with  an  all-night  license.  A  la  carte.  Alps.  58th  st.  and 
6th   ave.     A   la   carte.      Dinner  $1. 

c.    Uptown  Restaurants 

Carlton  Terrace'.  Broadway  and  looth  st.  Music,  dancing.  A  la 
carte.  ^  Colonial.  8th  ave.  and  125th  st.  Music,  dancing.  Lunch 
with  wine,  40c.  Dinner  with  wine,  75c.  Claremont.  Broadway  near 
Grant's  tomb.  (See  p.  254.)  A  la  carte.  Archambault,  2678  Broadway, 
a  la  carte.  Gossler's  Campus,  900  Columbus  ave.  Specialties,  sea-food. 
Fay's  Oyster  and  Chop  House,  239  W.  125th  st.  Hotel  Bonta,  Broad- 
way and  94th  St.  Music  and  dancing.  Dinner,  65c.  St.  George, 
Broadway  and  io2d  st.  ^Marseille,  Broadway  and  103d  st.  Sunset 
Inn,  4198  Broadway.  'Arrowhead  Inn,  Haven  ave.  and  177th  st. 
'Abbey  Inn,   Ft.   Wash.   ave.   and   198th   st. 

d.    English  Chop  Houses 

Farrlsh's  Chop  House.  John  and  William  sts.  A  la  carte  and 
table  d'hote.  Shore  lunch  12  to  7:30  p.  m.,  50c.  Te  Olde  Chop 
House.  118  Cedar  St.,  near  Broadway.  "The  Cheshire  Cheese  of 
New  York."  A  la  carte.  Keen's  Chop  House.  70  W.  36th  st. 
Also  107  W.  44th  St.  English.  A  la  carte.  Specialties,  chops,  steaks, 
rarebits,  game,  etc.  Engel's  Chop  House.  61  W.  36th  st.  A  la  carte. 
Browne's  Chop  House.  1424  Broadway,  near  40th  st.  A  la  carte. 
Te  Olde  English  Chop  House.-  23  W.  431'd  st.  A  la  carte.  Breakfast 
Soc.     Luncheon  60c.     Afternoon  tea.     Dinner  90c. 

e.    French  Restaurants 

Cal€  Lafayette.  University  Place  and  9th  st.  A  small  hotel, 
famous  for  its  cuisine.  The  cafe  in  the  evening  is  most  inter- 
esting. A  la  carte.  Hotel  Brevoort  Restaurant,  (same  management  as 
preceding),  5th  ave.  and  8th  St.;  a  la  carte;  table  d'hote  dinner, 
$1.50.  Mouquin'8.  148  Fulton  st.  A  la  carte.  Popular  with  busi- 
ness men  for  luncheon.  Mouquln's.  455  6th  ave.,  near  aSth 
St.  A  la  carte.  The  uptown  building  has  recently  been  renovated; 
popular  for  luncheon  and  dinner;  somewhat  patronized  for  after 
theatre  suppers.  Good  food;  average  prices.  Cards,  chess  and 
other  games  permitted  in  cafe  betw.  2:30  and  5  p.m.  La  Parlslenne 
Rotlsserle.  650  8th  ave.,  near  40th  st.  Palm  Garden.  De- 
licious roast  meats  cooked  before  a  grill.    A  la  carte.    Maison  Jeanne. 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  23 

22a  W.  58th  St.  "The  Little  French  Restaurant."  Dinner  75c. 
Maison  Arthur,  5  E.  4Sth  st.;  dinner,  $1.25.  Jules  Peck,  140  Fulton  st.; 
dinner  w.  wine,  11  a.m.  to  8  p.m.,  65c.  Laloy,  228-232  W.  30th  at.; 
lunch,  w.  wine,  50c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  65c.  Charles,  110-114  W.  4Sth 
St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  §oc.;  dinner  w.  wine,  6sc.  J.  B.  O.,  158-160  W. 
4Sth  St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  50c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  75e.  Maison  Mollat, 
118- 120  W.  49th  St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  4SC.;  dinner  w.  wine,  65c.,  Sun.,  7Sc. 
Ctd€  Bonno^  150-162  W.  44th  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.;  dinner  w.  wine, 
60c.,  Sun.,  7SC.  Gaston,  54  W.  26th  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  45c.;  dinner 
w.  wine,  50c.,  Sun.,  60c.  Caf6  Bonsqnet,  157-159  W.  44th  st.;  lunch  w. 
wine,  soc.;  dinner  w.  wine,  65c.  La  Petite  Bretonne,  319  W.  ssth  st.; 
lunch  w.  wine,  3Sc.  and  soc.;  dinner  w.  wine,  65c.,  Sun.,  75c,  Lion 
d'Or,  S9-6i  W.  24th  St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  50c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  65c.< 
Sat.  and  Sun.,  7sc.  Lecnyer,  105-107  W.  2Sth  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  50c.; 
dinner  w.  wine,  65c.  •  Marceline,  230  W.  38th  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.; 
dinner  w.  wine,  60c.  Chevalier,  133  W.  45th  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  50c; 
dinner  w.  wine,  65c.,  Sat.,  Sun.  and  Hoi.,  75c.  Eugenie  Granler, 
1 12- X 14  W.  48th  St.  Arlstlde  Fumey,  10  Stone  St.  Berger,  117  w. 
43d  St.     La  Boh^me,  120  W.  44th  st. ;  lunch,  30c.  and  40c.;  dinner,  50c. 

f.  German  Restaurants 

Lfichow's.  14th  -St.  near  4th  ave.  A  la  carte.  Well-known. 
Allaire's.  190  3d  ave.  Entrance  also  on  17th  st.  Large  Gothic 
hall.  Table  d'hote,  50c.  Beer  excellent.  Hofbrau  Haus.  Broad- 
way and  30th  St.  Elaborate  and  high  priced.  Grill.  Ladies  un- 
escorted by  men  not  allowed  in  main  dining  room  in  the 
evening.  A  la  carte.  Special  ladies'  luncheon  at,  noon.  Kaiserhof. 
Broadway  and  30th  st.  A  la  carte  and  table  d'h6te.  Sunday  din- 
ner, $1.  Unter  den  Linden.  Broadway  and  97th  st.  Out-of-doors. 
A  la  carte.  Wurzburger  Hofbrauhaus.  Broadway  and  83rd  st. 
Elaborate  German  restaurant.  Music,  dancing,  cabaret.  Luncheon, 
40c.  Dinner,  75c.  Pabst.  8th  ave.  and  58th  st.  A  la  carte.  Popular 
with  after  theatre  crowds.  Pabst's.  Popular  in  Harlem.  226 
W.  125th  St.  A  la  carte;  table  d'hote  dinner,  $1.00;  cabaret.  Fausfs. 
Columbus  Circle.  An  elaborate  German  restaurant,  a  la  carte. 
Alt  Heldelburg.  3d  ave.,  adjoining  N.  W.  cor.  of  14th  St.;  lunch,  40c.; 
dinner,  50c.  EbUng's  Casino.  St.  Ann's  ave.  and  156th  st.  (reached 
by  3d  Ave.  Elevated"),  a  large  German  establishment  in  the  Bronx, 
adjoining  Ebling's  brewery,  and  comprising  a  restaurant,  a  quaint 
rathskeller,  private  rooms  for  banquets,  ballSj  etc.;  lunch,  40c.;  dinner, 
50c. 

g.  Italian  Restaurants 

(i)  Central  District:  Roversl,  29  W.  27th  St.,  an  old  established 
house;  a  la  carte;  also  td'h.  dinner,  70c.  (wine  extra).  Roma,  6th  ave.j 
near  soth  St.;  lunch  w.  'W.,  50c.;  dinner  w.  w.,  80c.,  Sat.,  Sun.  and 
Hdl.,  Ii.oo.  Colalzzl,  37-39  W.  24th  St.;  lunch  w.  w.,  50c.;  dinner  w.  w., 
65c.,  S.  S.  and  H.,  75c.  Morettl,  51-55  W.  35th  St.;  lunch  w.  wine, 
35c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  ^sc,  in  d^fe,  50c.  Guffantl,  270-7^  7th  ave.; 
lunch  w.  wine,  50c. ;  dinner,  75c.  (wine  extra).  Semprlni,  iS4-6  W. 
iSoth  St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  60c.  Glollto,  108.  W. 
49th  St.,  with  summer  garden;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.;  dinner  w.  wine, 
60c.,  S.  S.  and  H.,  65c.  Guffantiy  161  W.  49th  st. ;  lunch  w.  wine, 
40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  60c.  Marsullo,  131-35  W.  4Qth  St.;  lunch,  50c.; 
dinner  w.  spec,  wine,  $1.00.  Missi,  244  W.  48th  st. ;  lunch  w.  wine, 
40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  50c.  Glollto,  236  W.  46th  st. ;  lunch  w.  wine» 
40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  60C.,  Sun.  and  Hoi.,  65c.  Lucca,  iio.W. 'v44th 
St.;   lunch  w.  wine,  30c.  and  40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  75c.     ScfalaTetti, 


24  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

346  W.  44th  St. ;  k  la  carte.  Florida,  t4t  W.  43rd  at. ;  lunch  w.  wine, 
40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  60c.  Monza,  104  W.  43d  St.;  lanch  w.  wine, 
45c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  65c.  (in  caf*,  50c.);  Sun.,  w.  spec,  wine,  75c. 
Tlirln,  315  W.  42d  st.;  lunch  w'out  wine,  40c.;  dinner  w'out  wine,  ssc; 
Xacgl,  103  W.  38th  St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  45c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  60c.,  Sun. 
and  Hoi.,  6sc.  "BvLgn^i,  107-9  W.  38th  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  30c.  and 
40c.;  dinner  w.  wine.  50c.  and  65c  Cai€  Gnffantl,  227  W.  36th  st. ; 
lunch  w.  wine,  30c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  50c.  Secchia  ("F.  &  I.  T.  d*H."), 
276  7th  ave.;  lunch  w.  wine,  35c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  40c.  Carios,  2s 
W.  a4th  St.;  lunch  w.  wine»  50c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  75c.  Original 
Xaria'f,  128-130  W.  21st  st.;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.;  dinner,  60c.  (wine 
extra). 

(2)  Greenwich  Village  District:  Enrico  and  Paglieri,  66  W.  nth 
St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.;  dinner  w,  wine,  60c.,  Sun.  and  Hoi.,  tsc 
Peter's  64  W.  loth  st. ;  lunch  w.  wine,  4Sc.;  dinner  w.  wine,  60c. 
Pavl's,  62  W.  Qth  St.;  lunch  w.  wine,  40c.;  dinner  w.  wine,  50c. 
(These  last  three  named  have  ornamental  winter  Rardens.) 
Gonfarone,  S.  E.  cor.  8th  and  Macdougnl  sts.,  one  of  the  oldest  houses 
and  most  patronized  by  downtown  Italians;  lunch  w.  wine,  50c.; 
dinner  w.  wine,  65c.,  Sat.,  Sun.  and  Hoi.,  75c.  Le  Chat  Holr  (formerly 
Mazzini's),  E.  side  of  West  Broadway,  near  Bleecker  St.;  i  la  carte. 

(3)  Business  District:  Angelo's,  165  Pearl  st. ;  t.d'h.  dinner,  ssc. 
Little  Roma,  44  Beaver  st,    Barranca,  S.  William  st..,  cor.  Broad. 

All  the  above  are  Italian  restaurants  conducted  for  American 
trade,  but  in  the  crowded.  Italian  quarters  along  Mott  and  Elizabeth 
sts.  are  many  eating  places  patronized  exclusively  by  foreigners.  The 
majority  are  none  too  clean;  but  a  few  of  the  better  class  afford 
opportunity  to  experiment  in  genuine  Italian  cooking  unmodified  to 
suit  American  tas_te,  e.  g.,  Ristorante  NapoUtana,  S.  E.  cor.  Mott  and 
Kenmare  sts. 

h.    Spanish  Restaurants 

Hermlda  ft  Palos,  "Las  dos  Americas,"  loo  Pearl  st. ;  a  la  carte; 
Specialties,  Spanish  and  Mexican  dishes.  Chorrera,  164  Pearl  st., 
a  la  carte.  Spanish  Restanrant,  56th  st.  and  7th  ave.;  "exclusive 
Spanish  cooking";  lunch,  40c.;  dinner,  60c.;  also  k  la  carte. 

i.    Chinese  Restaurants 

(t)  Uptown  Section:  The  Tokio,  141  W.  45th  st. ;  an  elaborate, 
show  restaurant.  The  P^in.  Broadway  and  47th  st.  An  elaborate 
Cliinese  show  restaurant;  cabaret,  music,  dancing.  A  la  carte.  Dinner 
w.  wine,  $1.00.  Far  East  Tea  Garden,  10  Columbus  Circle.  The 
Shanghai,  1841  Broadway,  near  66th  st.  Garden  of  Cathay,  313  W. 
125th  St. 

(2)  Chinese  Quarter  (3d  Ave.  Elevated  to  Chatham  sq.,  or  Inter- 
borough  Subway  to  Worth  st.):  Port  Arthur,  q  Mott  st.  Oriental, 
3  Pell  St.  Chinese  Delmonico,  24  Pell  st.'  Tuxedo  Restaurant,  2 
Doyers  st.  Suey  Jan  Low,  16  Mott  st.  (less  pretentious,  but  good). 
King  Hong  Lau,  18  Mott  st.  In  all  these  restaurants  meals  are 
served  both  a  la  carte  and  table  d'hote,  the  prices  for  the  latter 
ranging  from  50c.  to  $5.00  in  the  more  expensive  places,  and  to 
$2.50  in  the  more  modest.  In  ordering  a  la  carte,  it  should  be 
remembered  that  one  order  does  not  necessarily  mean  an  individual 
portion  or  a  double  portion,  as  is  the  common  practice  elsewhere. 
There  are,  for  instance,  a  dozen  different  kinds  of  Chop  Suey,  at 
prices  ranging  from  15c.  to  $1.00  or  more  per  order;  as  the  quality 
improves,  the  sire  of  the  portion  increases,  so  that  by  choosing  the 
more  expensive  dishes,  a  party  of  four  or  five  dine  quite  economically 
on  food  of  the  finer  quality. 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  25 

).    Other  Foreign  Restaurants 

Hungarian,  Little  Htmi^ary.  263  E.  Hotiston  st.  Known  also  as 
Cafe  Liberty.  Figures  largely  in  stories  of  New  York  "bohemian  life." 
Is  patronized  by  sightseers  and  a  certain  sportincr  class.  A  1?  carte. 
Dinner  w.  cocktail  and  3  wines,  $1.50.  Barth'f.  32  W.  28th  st. 
Lunch,  soc.     Dinner,  soc. 

Turkish.     The  Constat! tlnople.     17  E.  24th  st.     A  la  carte. 
.Armenian.     Balkan,   88  Lexington  ave.;  dinner,   35c.     Cilicla,  80 
Lexing^pn  ave. 

Hindoo.  East  India  Caf<  and  Tea  Parlor,  672  8th  ave.,  near  43d 
St.;  specialties,  Singalese  Curries. 

Japanese.    Asaki,  48  W.  39th  st. 

k.    Department  Store  Restaurants 

Many  of  the  Department  stores  have  restaurants  which 
are  open  during  store  hours.  The  service  is  a  la  carte,  some- 
times with  table-d'hote  lunches  and  afternoon  teas. 

*Wanamaker's.  Broadway  and  loth  st.  Excellent  riestaurant 
in  "new  building."  A  la  carte.  Lunch  50c.  Greenhut  Company. 
6th  ave.  and  i8th  st.  Formerly  Siegcl  Cooper's.  A  la  carte.  Glmbel's. 
(PI.  Ill — C3)  6th  ave.  and  :^4th  st.  A  la  carte.  Was  when  it  opened 
excellent.  McCreery's.  (PI.  IIT — D2)  34th  st..  betw.  5th  and  6th 
aves.  Tea-room.  A  la  carte.  Macy's.  (PI.  Ill — C2)  6th  ave.  and 
3Sth  St.  Cheap  and  crowded.  Loggia  in  summer.  A  la  carte  or 
table  d'hote.  Luncheon  3dc.  or  44c.  'Lord  ft  Taylor.  (PI.  Ill — Di) 
Sth  ave.  and  39th  st.  Pleasant  restaurant  and  charming  tea-room, 
decorated  in  good  taste.  A  la  carte.  Tea,  50c.  Bloomlngdale's. 
59th  St.  and  3d  ave.    A  la  carte. 

I.    Dairy  Lunch  Rooms,  etc. 

Dairy  Lunch  Rooms  varying  somewhat  in  quality  and 
price,  but  for  the  most  part  clean  and  economical,  abound 
in  all  the  business  and  shopping  districts.  By  far  the  best 
known  and  deservedly  the  most  widely  patronized  are  the 
Childs  Restaurants,  which  have  set  a  standard  in  the  way 
of  sanitary  service  and  excellence  of  quality  at  very  moderate 
prices.     A  complete  list  is  here  given: 

3  Beaver;  47  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  Exchange  PL;  96  Wall; 
194  Broadway,  E.  side,  near  Fulton  st. ;  23  Park  Row;  104  Park  Row; 
31  Cortlandt;  176  Fulton;  285  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  Reade  St.;  148 
Chambers;  351  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  Leonard  St.;  440  Broadway, 
E.  side,  near  Grand  st. ;  142  Bowery,  near  Broome  st.;  753  Broadway, 
W.  side,  near  Sth  St.;  815  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  12th  st. ;  42  E. 
14th;  221  6th  ave.,  near  15th  St.;  270  6th  ave.,  near  17th  st.;  lo  W. 
i8th;  12  E.  23d;  118  W.  23d;  388  6th  ave.,  near  23d  St.;  184  5th  ave., 
W.  side,  near  23d  St.;  403  6th  ave.,  near  25th  st. ;  222  5th  ave.,  W.  side 
near  a6m  St.;  472  6th  ave.,  near  29th  st. ;  527  6th  ave.,  near  31st  st. i 
1233  Broadway,  W.  side  near  31st  st. ;  425  7th  ave.,  near  33rd  St.; 
36  W.  34th;  108  W.  34th;  602  6th  ave.,  near  36th  St.;  1437  Broadway, 
W.  side,  near  40th  st. ;  148554  Broadway  W.  ^de,  near  Times  Square, 
r  E.  42d;  47  E.  42d;  109  W.  42d;  1546  Broadway,  E.  side,  near  46th; 
1551  Broadway,  W.  side  near  46th;  300  W.  59th  st. ;  1953  Broadway,  W. 
side,  near  65th;  272  W.  125th;  in  E.  125th. 

Other  popular  chains  of  lunch  rooms  are  the  Exchange 
Buffet,  5  West  35th  st.  and  24  other  branches;  the  Hanover 


26  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Lunch,  Inc.,  215  West  42d  st,  and  12  other  branches;  Hart- 
ford Lunch  Co.,  22  East  42d  St.,  and  15  other  branches; 
Capitol  Lunch,  Inc.,  833  Broadway,  and  6  other  branches. 

The  Automat  restaurants  are  a  recently  established  series, 
run  on  the  "Nickel-in-a-slot'*  system.  The  purchaser  makes 
his  choice,  deposits  the  specified  amount  and  automatically 
receives  the  food  or  beverage.  The  most  elaborate  "of  -the 
Automat  restaurants  is  on  Broadway  just  below  47th  st. 

m.    Tea  Rooms 

During  the  past  few  years  tea  rooms  have  sprung  up  all 
over  the  city,  usually  low  in  price  with  service  a  la  carte 
(sometimes  table-d'hote  also).  The  food  is  almost  invariably 
good,  but  the  portions  are  likely  to  be  small. 

WafELe  Lunch  and  Tea.    27  William  st.    Re8t-a-Wliil«.    83  Beaver 
St.     Ivy.     33  Murray   st.     •Roof  Tree  Inn.     a8th  st.,   near  5th  ave. 
This  tea  room   is  on  the  second  floor  of  a   quaint  building  set  back 
in  a  courtyard.     The  yard,  first  floor  and  tea  room  itself  are  filled 
with  interesting  collections  of  antique  furniture,  brasses,  embroideries, 
etc.,  for  sale.     Excellent  food,  low  prices,  table  d'hote  or  a  la  carte.   . 
Casey.     19  E.  3^d  st.     Fernery.     22  E.  33d  st.     One  of  the  oldest  tea 
rooms.      Attractive;    good   cooking;    a   la   carte   or    Breakfast,    35C.-S0C. 
Luncheon,  650.     Tea  with  waffles,  30c.     Club  dinner,  500. -$i.     Chimney 
Comer.     2  E.  33rd  st.     Colonia.     2  W.  33rd  st.     At  the  Sign  of  the 
Green  Tea  Pot.     31  W.  33rd  st.     *Tally-Ho     20  E.  34th  st.    A  stable 
belonging    to    an    old    mansion    made    over    into    a    tea    room,    keeping 
the   stable   form.     Tables   in   stalls,   doorboy   in   jockey   costume,   etc. 
Prices  high.     Bertha-Claire.     14  E.  37th  st.     Vanity  Fair.     4  W.  40th 
St.  Excellent  home  cooking.  Quaint  interior.  Dinner  $1.  A  la  carte  lunch. 
^Mary  Elizabeth.     392  5th  ave.     This  is  most  attractive  and  has  also 
delicious  cakes,  ices,  sandwiches,  etc.    The  Mary  Elizabeth  candy  is 
for     sale,     beautiful     dyed     baskets,     cakes,     etc.      Mrs.     Warner's. 
3Sth   St.  opposite  Altman's.     "Real   food."     Eat  out  of  doors   in   sum 
mer.     *Maillard'8.     5th  ave  and  35th  st.     Long  established.     Fashion- 
able.    High   priced.     Maillard's   candy    sold   here.     Peg   Wofflngton* 
II  E.  44th  St.     Beautifully  furnished   in  Old  English   fashion.     Prices 
moderate.     Special  arrangements  for  entertaining.    Tiny.    360  Madison 
ave.     Scotch.    31  W.  46th  st.     Bine  Bird.    64  W.  26th  st.    Fifth  Ave. 
53  W.  45th  St.     Stndio.     130  W.  57th  St.     Copper  Kettle.     Amsterdam 
ave.,  betw.  ii8th  and  119th  sts.,  opposite  Columbia  University.     Good 
food,    low   prices,    much   patronized    by    university    students. 

"Soda  Water  Fountains."  '  Among  the  minor  American  usages 
which  impress  the  visitor  from  Great  Britain  or  the  Continent,  is  the 
ubiquitous  "ice-cream  soda."  It  is  therefore  appropriate  that  some 
special  notice  should  be  given  to  it  in  connection  with  the  city  of 
its  origin.  So-called  "soda  water,"  consisting  of  charged  carbonic 
water  mixed  with  fruit  or  other  syrups,  either  plain  or  with  cream, 
is  a  long-established  American  institution.  The  innovation  of  adding 
ice-cream  was  a  later  development,  dating  from  about  1878.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  first  served  in  tne  original  Huyler*s  candy  store, 
on  Broadway,  above  i7*h  st.  'i;hc  soda  water  "fountain"  is  now  a 
unique  national  institution.  The  original  ice-cream  soda  has  meanwhile  un- 
dergone many  embellishments.  In  place  of  the  original  unflavored  ice- 
cream, the  larger  "fountains"  now  offer  an  assortment  of  flavors, 
affording  a  wide  choice  of  odd  combinations. 

A  still  later  development,  which  almost  rivals  the  popularity 
of    "ice-cream    soda,"    is    the    "ice-cream    Sundae"    (locally    known   in 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  27 

New  England  as  the  "College  Ice").  It  may  be  briefly  described  as 
an  ice-cream  soda  with  the  soda  water  left  out.  The  ice-cream,  of 
whatever  desired  flavor,  is  served  in  a  cuplike  dish,  and  over  it  is 
poured  fruit  syrups,  fresh  crushed  fruit,  chopped  nuts,  marshmallows, 
hot  chocolate  or  any  other  flavoring  or  combination  of  flavor- 
ings which  individual  taste  and  more  or  less  perverted  gustatorial 
ingenuity  can  invent. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  foreign  traveler  desiring  to  try  a 
"soda" — ^and  in  their  not  too-complicated  forms  they  are  a 
very  refreshing  summer  drink — ^it  should  be  stated  that  in 
New  York  City  the  best  sodas  are  to  be  had  at  all  the  leading 
confectioners  and  drug  stores ;  in  fact,  some  of  these  so-called 
"drug  stores"  are  mainly  soda  fountains.  In  most  of  these 
places  a  light  luncheon  also  may  be  obtained;  for,  in  addition 
to  serving  hot  chocolate  or  coffee,  they  will  usually  have  beef, 
clam  or  chicken  bouillion,  a  wide  assortment  of  sandwiches 
and  different  kinds  of  cakes  and  biscuits. 

Confectioners.  Maillakd's  (see  Tea  Rooms).  Mary  Elizabbth 
(see  Tea  Rooms).  Huyler,  io  Wall  st.;  Hudson  Terminal  Building;  152 
Broadway,  W.  side,  near  Liberty  St.;  469  Broadway,  W.  side,  near 
Grand  St.;  793  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  loth  St.;  863  Broadway,  W. 
side,  near  17th  St.;  11 45  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  26th  St.;  60  E.  34th 
St.;  43  W.  34th  St.;  61  W.  4ad  St.;  133  W.  42d  St.;  508  5th  ave.,  W. 
side,  near  43d  St.;  1597  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  48th  St.;  28  E.  59th 
St.;  2149  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  76th  St.;  2393  Broadway,  W.  side, 
near  88th  St.;  2723  Broadway,  W.  Side,  near  105th  St.;  150  W.  za.sth  St.; 
3429  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  165th  st.;  663  W.  i8ist  st.  Allegretti, 
chocolates  and  sodas,  927  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  21st  st.  Page 
AND  Shaw,  71  Broadway,  W.  side,  near  Wall  st.;  Vanderbilt 
Hotel,  34th  St.  and  Madison  ave.:  362  5th  ave.,  W.  side,  near  35th  st.; 
553  5th  ave.,  E.  side,  near  46th  st.  Lopt,  good  candy  at  moderate 
prices;  also  sodas,  29  Cortlandt  st.;  206  Broadway,  E.  side,  near  Fulton 
St.;  54  Barclay  St.;  41  Park  Row;  Broome  and  Centre  st.;  38  E.  23d  St.; 
23  W.  34th  St.;  266  W.  125th  St.  Mirror,  Fulton  and  Nassau  St.;  17 
Cortlandt  St.;  Broadway  and  Chambers  St.;  346  6th  ave.,  E.  side,  near 
2ist  St.;  48  E.  23d  St.;  7  W.  34th  st.;  450  5th  ave.,  W.  side,  near  40th 
St.;  Madison  ave.  and  42nd  St.;  ^6  E.  42nd  St.;  x  W.  42nd  St.;  155  W. 
42nd[  St.:  536^  sth  ave.,  W.  side,  near  45th  st.  Low*pricea  candies 
ranking  high  in  purity  and  excellence;  also  sodas.  Schrafft,  35  Nas- 
sau St.;  IX  W.  ^4th  St.;  383  sth  ave.,  E.  side,  near  36th  St.;  1377 
Broadway,  W.  side,  near  37th  St.;  Martha  Washington  Candy  Shop, 
9  and  23  Church  st.;  32  E.  23d  St.,  near  42d  st.  and  Broadway;  105  W. 
125th  St.  Hetherington's  drug  store,  Vanderbilt  ave.  and  42d  St., 
N.  W.  corner,  opposite  Grand  Central  Station;  known  to  Harvard 
stuaents  as  serving  the  best  ice-cream  soda  in  New  York;  established 
30  years.     Park  &  Tilford's  candies  (see  below)  are  excellent. 

Cake  Shops.  Dean,  628  5th  ave.,  W.  side,  near  50th  st.  No  cake 
served  in  shop.  Steamer  baskets  a  specialty.  Long  established.  The 
Cake  Shop,  362  Madison  ave.,  W.  side,  near  ^sth  st.  No  cake  served 
in  shop.     Delicious  "home-maoe"  cake  of  all  kinds. 

Fancy  Groceries  and  Canned  Goods.  Charles,  44  E.  43rd  St., 
comer  Madison  ave.,  close  by  Grand  Central  Terminal.  "  Park  an» 
Tilford:  5th  ave.  and  26th  st.;  Broadway  and  41st  St.;  784  5th  ave., 
W.  side,  near  59th  st.;  248  Columbus  ave,  near  72nd  St.;  Broadway 
and  87th  St.;  Broadway  and  loist  St.;  Broadway  and  112th  St.;  Lenox 
ave.  and  126th  St.:  Broadway  and  X46th  st.  Macy's  Department  Store, 
Broadway  and  34tn  st. 


28  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Fruit.     Hicks,  557  Fifth  ave.     Park  and  Tilford  (sec  groceries). 

« 

Wlnes»  Liquors,  etc     Mouquin,  s.   e.  cor.  7th  ave.   and  dSth  st. 
Park  and  Tilford  (see  groceries;  see  also  p.   79). 

V.    Urban    Travel — Conveyances.      Cabs,    Motor 

Busses,  etc. 

Carriages  and  Motor  Cabs.  Public  vehicles  of  all  kinds 
are  in  waiting  at  the  stations,  large  hotels,  and  public  cab 
stands  scattered  through  the  city.  They  can  be  ordered  by 
telephone  from  any  point.  The  two  largest  taxicab  com- 
panies are  the  Yellow  Taxicab  Co.  (telephone  number  for 
all  stations  Columbus  1000)  and  the  Mason-Seaman  Transpor- 
tation Co.  (telephone  for  all  stations  Columbus  7400).  At 
the  stations  and  at  the  hotels  the  cabs  are  under  the  direction 
of  a  "starter"  who  may  be  consulted  concerning  the  amount  of 
fare.  Vehicles  may  be  hired  by  the  distance  or  by  the  hour. 
If  the  vehicle  is  not  a  taximeter  cab,  a  bargain  should  be  made 
before  starting.  A  table  of  rates  is  posted  in  each  taxicab 
and  the  fare  can  be  roughly  computed  beforehand  by  reckon- 
ing 20  blocks  to  the  mile,  N.  and  S.  and  from  6  to  8  E.  and 
W.  The  long  distances  in  the  city  make  cab  fares  high. 
Indeed,  to  the  foreign  traveler,  used  to  the  moderate  rates 
of  the  Continent,  they  seem  extortionate.  Cabs  are  for 
this  reason  used  with  nothing  like  the  freedom  in 
New  York  that  they  are  abroad.  In  case  of  serious 
disagreement  between  the  passenger  and  the  driver 
recourse  may  be  had  to  the  nearest  police  station.  When 
a  vehicle  is  retained  for  shopping  or  is  to  return  for  a  pas- 
senger after  the  theatre,  the  door  porter  at  the  carriage  en- 
trance gives  the  driver  and  the  customer  cards  bearing  dupli- 
cate numbers.  To  summon  the  cab  again,  the  customer  hknds 
his  card  to  the  door  porter,  who  flashes  the  number  on  an 
electric  sign  visible  to  the  waiting  driver. 

Cab  rates.  Cabs,  for  the  first  mile  or  any  fraction  thereof,  50  c; 
for  each  add.  half  m.  or  fraction  thereof,  20  c.  Coaches,  for  the  first 
mile  or  any  fraction  thereof,  70  c. ;  for  each  add.  half  m.  or  fraction 
thereof,  30  c.  Hourly  rates:  for  the  first  hour  or  any  fraction  thereof, 
$1.50;  for  each  add.  half  hr.  or  fraction  thereof.  50  c.  Motor  vehicles, 
for  not  more  than  2  passengers:  for  the  first  naif  m.  or  any  fraction 
thereof,  30  c;  for  each  add.  quarter  m.  or  fraction,  10  c.  For  3  or 
more  passengers:  for  the  first  half  m.  or  any  fraction  thereof,  40  c; 
for  each  add.  one-sixth  m.  or  fraction,  10  c.  Hourly  rates:  same  as 
for  cabs  and  coaches.  Waiting  time  for  all  vehicles  at  rate  of  $1.50 
per  hour.  For  each  piece  of  luggage  carried  outside,  20  c,  but  no 
charge  is  made  for  handbags  or  suitcases.  Ferriage  and  tolls  to  be  paid 
by  party  using  the  vehicle. 

Motor  Omnibuses  ("Stages")  run  from  8  a.  m.  to  mid- 
night at  intervals  of  4  to  10  minutes.    Fare  loc.    Fifth  and 


URBAN  TRAVEL^CONVEYANCES  29 

Seventh  Ave.  Lines — ^Leave  Washington  sq.  at  Fifth  Ave., 
through  Fifth  ave.  to  90th  st.  Leave  Washington  sq.  at  Fifth 
ave.,  through  Fifth  ave.  to  W.  iioth  st.,  to  Seventh  ave.,  to 
145th  St.  Riverside  Drive  Lines — Leave  Penn.  Station  at 
Seventh  ave.  and  32nd  st.,  through  W.  32nd  st.  to  Fifth  ave., 
to  W.  57th  st,  to  Broadway,  to  W.  72nd  st,  to  Riverside  Drive, 
to  W.  135th  St.,  to  Broadway.  Leave  Penn.  Station,  through 
32nd  St.  to  Fifth  ave.,  to  iioth  st.,  to  Riverside  Drive,  to 
W.  135th  st,  to  Broadway.  Leave  Washington  sq.  at  Fifth 
ave.,  through  Fifth  ave.  to  W.  57th  st,  to  Broadway,  to  W. 
72ad  St.,  to  Riverside  Drive,  to  W.  135th  st,  to  Broadway. 
(Betw.  8  a.  m.  and  3.45  p.  m.  does  not  run  N.  of  96th  st,  but 
transfers  with  Penn.  Station  Line.)  All  lines  transfer  at 
Fifth  ave.  and  32nd  st.  to  and  from  Penn.  Station.  All  return 
by  route  they  follow  in  going.  A  ride  on  the  top  of  one  of 
these  stages  affords  visitors  a  good  opportunity  to  view  the 
sections  of  the  city  through  which  they  pass. 

The  Seeing  New  York  Automobiles,  starting  from  Herald 
sq.  at  Broadway  and  34th  st.,  with  waiting  room  and  ticket 
office  in  Macy's  store,  offer  an  Uptown  Trip  (starting  10  a.  m., 
II  a.  m.,  2  p.  m.,  and  3  p.  m.  Fare  $1)  which  includes  5th 
ave.,  Central  Park,  Cathedral  Heights,  Riverside  Drive,  with  a 
stop  at  Grant's  Tomb;  a  Downtown  Trip  (starting  10  a.  m. 
and  2  p.  m.  Fare  $1)  which  includes  the  business  and  finan- 
cial section,  the  Battery,  Lower  Broadway,  and  a  stop  at 
the  Aquarium;  and  an  evening  trip  through  Chinatown  and 
the  Bowery  (fare,  including  all  expenses,  $2),  which  includes 
the  "Great  White  Way,"  Chinatown,  the  East  Side,  ^nth 
stops  at  Chinese  restaurants,  dancehalls,  etc.  Another  start- 
ing point  is  the  Flat  Iron  Building  at  Broadway  and  23rd  st. 
In  winter  the  trips  are  made  at  10  and  2  only.  Sight-Seeing 
Automobiles  for  Coney  Island  run  in  the  summer  time,  start- 
ing from  Herald  sq.,  the  Flat  Iron  Building  and  Birough 
Hall,  Brooklyn.  ' 

The  City  History  Club,  105  W.  40th  St.,  conducts  Saturday  After- 
noon Excursions  (fee,  50  cents),  for  the  study  of  local  history,  when 
there  is  sufficient  call,  and  furnisher  Historical  (hiides  at  a  fee  from 
$3  to  $5. 

VI.     Urban  Travel — Railroads.     Street  Railroads 
(Tram  Lines).    Elevated  and  Subway 

The  street  railroads  of  New  York  City,  including  sub- 
ways, elevated  lines,  and  surface  cars,  have  1,666  miles  of 
single  track.  The  total  capitalization  is  about  seven  hundred 
million  dollars.  The  passengers  carried  during  the  year  ending 


30  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

June  30,  1912,  numbered  1,680,914025.  The  fares  amounted 
to  over  83  million  dollars.  All  fares  are  5  cents  except  on 
local  bridge  trains.  The  three  systems  are  operated  separately 
and  transfers  are  not  given  from  one  system  to  another  except 
at  a  few  points  noted  below. 

The  present  Subway,  controlled  by  the  city  and  operated 
by  the  Interborough  Rapid  Transit.  Co.,  carries  more  than  a 
million  passengers  a  day.  It  was  built  1901-4  and  the  Brook- 
lyn extension  was  opened  in  1908.  A  two-track  line  runs 
from  the  Battery  to  City  Hall  Park;  from  there  a  four-track 
line  extends  to  96th  st. ;  at  this  point  the  road  divides  into 
the  Broadway  line  (three  tracks  to  137th  st.  and  two  tracks 
beyond)  to  Van  Cortlandt  Park  and  the  Lenox  ave.  line  (two 
tracks)  to  Bronx  Park.  The  subway  reaches  Brooklyn  from 
the  Battery  through  a  tunnel  consisting  of  two  tubes,  6,784 
ft.  long,  with  an  inside  diameter  of  15  ft.  6  in.,  and  in  Brook- 
lyn extends  to  Atlantic  ave.  The  entire  length  of  road  is  25.63 
m.  and  it  contains  over  81  m.  of  single  track.  The  four-track 
portions  are  54  ft.  8J4  in.  wide  and  16  ft  7  in.  high.  The 
construction  is  concrete  and  steel.  Service  on  the  subway  is 
divided  into  Express  Trains  and  Local  Trains,  Express 
Trains  run  from  South  Ferry  to  96th  st.  in  20j^  min. ;  from 
Bowling  Green  to  Atlantic  ave.,  Brooklyn,  in  7^  min.  "Rush 
hours"  are  from  about  6  to  10  a.  m.  when  the  down-town 
trains  are  crowded  and  from  about  4  to  7  p.  m.  when  the  up- 
town trains  are  crowded.  Express  trains  stop  at  all  stations 
south  of  Brooklyn  Bridge  and  north  of  96th  st,  although  if 
the  traffic  is  extremely  heavy  an  occasional  station  may  be 
omitted,  the  "guard'*  announcing  the  omission.  Between 
Brooklyn  Bridge  and  96th  st.  the  express  trains  stop  at 
Brooklyn  Bridge,  14th  St.,  42d  3t.,  72d  st.,  and  96th  st,  only. 
For  streets  betw.  these  stations  one  must  change  to  local 
trains.  All  West  Farms  express  trains  run  to  and  from 
Brooklyn.  Broadway  express  trains  run  to  and  from  Brook- 
lyn during  "rush  hours,"  at  other  hours,  to  and  from  South 
Ferry.  During  "rush  hours"  South  Ferry  service  is  by  shuttle 
trains,  to  and  from  Bowling  Green.  All  fares  are  5  cents. 
(Children  under  five  may  ride  free.  Tickets  are  bought  at 
booths  near  the  entrances  and  dropped  in  the  glass  box  of  the 
ticket  "chopper"  in  the  gateway.  The  destination  of  each 
train  is  posted  in  the  windows  beside  the  end  entrances.  The 
guards  call  the  stations  as  the  train  approaches  them.  All 
stations  are  clearly  marked  by  many  signs  bearing  their  names. 

Brooklyn  Subway  Stations  (in  order  from  Manhattan,  eastward 
through  Brooklyn)  are  Borough  Hall,  Joralemon  st.,  betw.  Court  and 
Fulton  sts.;  Hoyt  and  Fulton  sts.;  Nevins  and  Fulton  sts.;  Atlantic  and 
Flatbush  aves. 


URBAN   TRAVEL— RAILROADS  31 

Manhattan  Subway  Stations  bctw.  South  Ferry  and  96th  st.  (ex- 
press stations  indicated  by  an  asterisk  [*]);  Bowling  Green  and  Broad- 
way, Wall  St.  and  Broadway;  'Fulton  st.  and  Broadway;  City  Hall 
Loop;  Brooklyn  Bridge;  Worth  and  Lafayette  sts.;  Canal  and  Lafayette 
sts.;  Spring  and  Lafayette  sts.;  Bleecker  and  Lafayette  sts.;  Astor  pi. 
and  4th  avc.;  *i4th  st.  and  4th  ave.;  i8th  st.  and  4th  avc.;  23d  st.  and 
4th  ave.;  28th  st.  and  4th  ave.;  33d  st.  and  4th  ave.;  *42d  st.  and  Park 
ave.,  or  Grand  Central  Terminal;  Times  Square,  or  42d  st.  and  Broad- 
way; 50th  St.  and  Broadway;  spth  st.  and  Brdadway;  66th  st.  and 
Broadway;  *72d  st.  and  Broadway;  79th  st.  and  Broadway;  86th  st. 
and  Broadway;  91st  st.  and  Broadway;  *96th  st.  and  Broadway. 

Broadway  Line  Subway  Stations  (96th  st.  to  Van  Cortlandt  Park) 
are  103d  st.  and  Broadway;  iioth  st.  and  Broadway;  ii6th  st.,and  Broad- 
way; Manhattan  st.  and  Broadway  (Fort  Lee  ferry  nearby);  137th  st. 
and  Broadway;  145th  st.  and  Broadway;  iS7th  st.  and  Broadway;  168th 
St.  and  St.  Nicholas  ave.;  181st  st.  and  St.  Nicholas  ave.;  191st  st.  and 
St.  Nicholas  ave.  (by  tunnel  to  Broadway,  two  blocks  distant);  Dyckman 
St.  and  Nagle  ave. J  207th  st.  and  Amsterdam  ave.;  2isth  st.  and  Amster- 
dam ave.;  225th  st.  and  Broadway;  231st  st.  and  Broadway;  238th  st. 
and  Broadway;  242d  st.  and  Broadway;  Van  Cortlandt  Park. 

Lenox  ave.  and  West  Farms  Line  Subway  Stations  (96th  st.  to 
Bronx  Park)  are:  zioth  st.  and  Lenox  ave;  11 6th  st.  and  Lenox  ave.; 
125th  St.  and  Lenox  ave.;  135th  st.  and  Lenox  ave.;  145th  st.  and  Lenox 
ave.;  Mott  ave.  and  149th  st. ;  149th  st.  and  3d  ave.  (free  transfer 
here  to  elevated  line  in  same  direction) ;  Jackson  and  Westchester  aves. ; 
Prospect  and  Westchester  aves.;  Intervale  and  Westchester  aves.; 
Simpson  st.  and  Westchester  ave.;  Freeman  st.  and  Southern  Blvd.; 
174th  St.  and  Boston  Road;  177th  st.  and  Boston  Road;  i8ist  st.  and 
Boston  Road. 

The  new  subways  under  construction  are  called  the 
"Dual  System"  because  they  will  be  operated  by  two  com- 
panies, the  Interborough  Rapid  Transit  Co.  and  the  Brooklyn 
Rapid  Transit  Co.  (New  York  Municipal  Railway  Corpora- 
tion). Contracts  have  been  drawn  for  44  miles  of  additional 
subway,  53  miles  of  additional  elevated  road,  beside  additional 
tracks  on  existing  elevated  roads.  The  new  system  will  cost 
about  $347,000,000.  The  city  will  provide  $150,000,000  of  this, 
operating  companies  furnishing  the  remainder.  At  the  expira- 
tion of  the  franchises  the  ownership  of  the  roads  will  revert 
to  the  city.  The  Dual  System  is  expected  to  be  opened  in 
1917. 

Among  the  lines  under  construction  are  the  extension  of  the  subway 
from  42d  st.  and  Broadway  down  7th  ave.,  through  lower  Manhattan 
and  via  a  new  tunnel  connection  with  Brooklyn,  past  its  present  terminal 
at  Flatbush  and  Atlantic  aves.,  out  Eastern  Parkway  to  New  Lots 
Road,  with  a  branch  down  Nostrand  ave.  to  Flatbush  ave.;  the  extension 
of  the  Lexington  ave.  branch  to  Pelham  Bay  Park  and  from  Bronx 
Park  to  241st  st,.  the  construction  of  a  new  subway  from  the  Queens- 
borough  Bridge  through  60th  St.,  down  7th  ave.  to  a  connection  with  a 
proposed  tiinnel  under  the  East  River  to  Montague  St.,  Brooklyn;  the  ' 
extension  of  the  4th  ave.  subway,  Brooklyn,  to  Fort  Hamilton^  and  the 
construction  of  a  new  subway  from  14th  St.,  Manhattan,  via  East  River 
tunnel  and  Eastern  District  to  Cypress  Hills,  Brooklyn. 

The  sections  already  completed  and  in  operation  are  the 
Centre  Street  Loop  Line;  the  Fourth  Avenue  Subway  Line 


32  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

(Brooklyn),  and  the  Steinway  Tunnel  Line,  to  Long  Island 
City. 

The  Centre  Si.  Loop  is  a  four-track  subway,  a  mile  and  a  half  longf, 
extending  from  Chambers  st.  to  Delancey  St.,  and  connecting  Brooklyn, 
Manhattan  and  Williamsburg  Bridges.  The  stations  are:  Chambers  St.; 
Canal  St.;  Bowery. 

Fourth  Avenue  (.Brooklyn)  Stations:  (Manhattan)  Chambers  st. 
(under  Municipal  Building);  (Brooklyn)  Cold  st;  De  Kalb  ave. ; 
Pacific  St.;  Union  st.;  9th  St.;  Prospect  ave.;  25th  st.;  36th  st.;  45th 
St.;  53d  St.;  59th  St.;  Bay  Ridge  ave.;  77th  st.;  86th  st. 

Steinway  Tunnel  Stations.  This  line,  which  forms  the  quickest 
means  of  communication  between  the  center  of  uptown  New  York  and 
the  Borough  of  Queens,  is  now  running  between  42d  st.  (Manhattan) 
and  Queensboro  Plaza,  Long  Island  City  (Queens).  The  stations  on 
this  line,  as  approved  by  the  Public  Service  Commission,  will  eventually 
be:  (Manhattan)  Times  Sq.;  5th  ave.;  Grand  Central;  (Queens)  Vernon- 
Jackson  ave.;  Hupter's  Point  and  nth  St.;  Queensboro  Plaza.  At 
present  the  Manhattan  Terminal  Station  is  on  42d  st.  near  Lexington  ave. 

The  Elevated  Roads  have  223  miles  of  single  track.  In 
Manhattan  and  the  Bronx  they  are  operated  by  the  Inter- 
borough  Rapid  Transit  Co.,  and  in  Brooklyn  by  the  Brooklyn 
Rapid  Transit  Co.  All  fares  5  cents.  (Jhildren  under  five 
free.  Passengers  may  transfer  from  one  elevated  to  another 
whenever  this  is  possible  without  descending  to  the  ground. 
By  the  payment  of  3  cents  additional  when  the  ticket  is  bought 
transfers  may  be  obtained  to  some  surface  cars  (the  Ogden 
ave.  line  at  155th  st.  and  8th  ave.;  the  University  ave.  line  at 
181st  St.  and  St.  Nicholas  ave.,  the  Bronx  and  Van  Cortlandt 
Park  line  at  £.  177th  st.  and  Boston  Road,  and  the  Crosstown 
line  at  i8ist  st.  and  St.  Nicholas  ave.).  Stairways  to  the  sta- 
tions are  marked  "Uptown"  and  '^Downtown"  when  the  sta- 
tions are  not  connected.  As  in  the  subway,  tickets  are  pur- 
chased at  the  ticket  window  and  dropped  into  the  glass  box  of 
the  ticket  "chopper."  Turnstile  gates  are  sometimes  substi- 
tuted. 

Trains  pass  every  few  minutes.  The  four  elevated 
lines  all  start  from  a  single  station  at  South  Ferry,  and  all  run 
in  a  general  northerly  direction.  The  lines  are  named 
Second,  Third,  Sixth  and  Ninth  ave.  Elevateds,  from  the  ave- 
nues on  which  they  travel  the  greatest  distances,  but  passen- 
gers should  remember  that  they  swing  into  other  streets. 
Travelers  can  transfer  to  any  train  at  South  Ferry,  2d  and  3rd 
ave.  lines  are  connected  (by  an  overhead  bridge)  at  Chatham 
Square  (spur  line  running  to  City  Hall),  at  34th  st.  (by  a 
shuttle  train  running  from  3rd  ave.  to  34th  st  ferry),  and  at 
129th  St.  (where  the  2nd  ave.  line  stops).  A  shuttle  train  runs 
from  3rd  ave.  to  the  Grand  Central  Terminal  on  42d  st    6th 


URBAN   TRAVEL— RAILROADS  33 

ave.  and  9th  ave.  lines  are  adjacent  at  Rector  st.  and  run 
over  the  same  lines  above  53d.  st.  A  shuttle  train  runs  north 
on  6th  ave.,  from  53rd  st.  and  6th  ave.  where  the  tracks  turn 
west  to  join  the  9th  ave.  tracks,  to  58th  st.  and  6th  ave.  The 
destination  of  each  train  is  marked  by  a  placard  on  the  front 
platform  and  also  by  signs  in  the  windows  nearest  the  en- 
trances. The  guard  announces  the  name  of  each  station 
as  the  train  approaches  and  of  the  pext  station  as  the  train 
starts  on.  The  name  of  each  station  is  on  a  large  sign  at  each 
end  of  the  platform.  Travelers  using  the  6th  or  9th  ave. 
elevated  should  make  sure  that  they  board  the  train  which 
they  wish.    Morning  and  evening  express  trains  are  marked. 

Second  Avenue  Elevated  Stations  are:  South  Ferry;  Hanover 
Square;  Fulton  and  Pearl  sts. ;  Franklin  Square;  Chatham  Square; 
Canal  and  Allen  sts.;  Grand  and  Allen  sts.;  Kivington  and  Allen  sts.; 
xst  St.  and  ist  ave.;  8th  st.  and  ist  ave.;  14th  st.  and  ist  ave.:  19th  st. 
and  xst  ave.;  23d  St.,  between  ist  and  2d  aves.;  34th  st.  and  2d  ave. 
(shuttle  trains  to  3d  ave.  and  to  £.  34th  st.  ferry) ;  42d  st.  and  ad 
ave.;  50th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  57th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  65th  st.  and  2d  ave.; 
72d  St.  and  2d  ave.;  80th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  86th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  92d  st. 
and  2d  ave.;  99th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  105th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  iiith  st.  and 
2d  ave.;  117th  st.  and  2d  ave.;  121st  st.  and  2d  ave.;  125th  st.  and  2d 
ave.;  129th  st.     The  line  connects  here  with  the  3d  ave.  line. 

Third  Avenue  Elevated  Stations  are:  South  Ferry;  Hanover  Square; 
Fulton  and  Pearl  sts.;  Franklin  Square;  City  Hall;  Chatham  Square; 
Canal  st.  and  Bowery;  Grand  st.  and  Bowery;  Houston  st.  and  Bowery; 
9th  St.  and  3d  ave.;  14th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  z8th  st.  and  3d  ave.; 
23d  St.  and  3d  ave.;  28th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  34th  st.  and  3d  ave..; 
(Shuttle  train  to  2d  ave!  and  E.  34th  st.  ferry);  A2d  st.  and  3d  ave.; 
(Shuttle  train  to  Grand  Central  Terminal);  47tn  st.  and  3d  ave.; 
53d.  St.  and  3d  ave.;  59th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  67th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  76th 
St.  and  3d  ave.;  84th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  89th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  99th 
St.  and  3d  ave.;  io6th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  ii6th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  125th  st. 
and  3d  ave.;  Z29th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  133d  st.,  betw.  Willis  and  Alex- 
ander aves.;  138th  st.,  betw.  Willis  and  Alexander  aves.;  143d  St., 
betw.  Willis  and  Alexander  aves.;  149th  si.  and  3d  ave.;  156th  st. 
and  3d  ave.;  i6ist  st.  and  3d  ave.;  i66th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  169th  st. 
and  3d  ave.;  Wendover  and  3d  aves.;  174th  st.  and  3d  ave.;  177th  st. 
and  3d  ave.;  i8oth  st.  and  3d  ave.;  183d  st.  and  3d  ave.;  Pelham 
ave.,  near  Botanical  Gardens.  Bronx  Park,  and  close  to  Fordham  Station 
of  the  Harlem  Division  of  toe  N.  Y.  C.  and  H.  R.  R. 

The  3d  ave.  line  is  joined  by  the  2d  ave.  line  at  120th  St.,  and  a 
shuttle  train  runs  to  the  Harlem  River  Station  of  the  N.  Y.,  N.  H. 
and  H.  R.  R.,  and  of  the  N.  Y.,  Westchester  and  Boston  R.  R. 

Sixth  Avenue  Elevated  Stations  are:  South  Ferry;  Batteiry  Place; 
Rector  and  Church  sts.  (bridg^e  to  9th  ave.  line) ;  Cortlandt  and  Church 
sts.;  Park  Place  and  Church  st. ;  Chambers  st.  and  West  Broadwav: 
Franklin  st.  and  West  Broadway;  Grand  st.  and  West  Broadway: 
Bleecker  st.  and  West  Broadway;  8th  st.  and  6th  ave.;  14th  st.  and 
6th  ave.;  i8th  st.  and  6th  ave.;  23d  st.  and  6th  ave.;  28th  st.  and  6th 
ave.;  33d  st.  and  6th  ave.  (moving  stairway);  38th  st.  and  6th  ave.; 
42d  St.  and  6th  ave.;  50th  st.  and  6th  ave.;  (shuttle  train  to  58th  st. 
and  6th  ave.,  except  during  rush  hours,  when  a  few  through  trains  are 
run  to  58th  St.);  S3d  st.  and  8th  ave.;  59th  st.  and  9th  ave.  (from  here 
on  the  same  tracks  and  stations  as  the  9th  ave.  elevated) ;  66th  st.  and 


34  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Columbus  ave.;  7 2d  st.  and  Columbus  ave.;  8ist  and  Columbus  ave.;  86th 
St.  and  Columbus  ave.;  93d  st.  and  Columbus  ave.;  99th  st.  and  Co- 
lumbus ave.;  104th  st.  and  Columbus  ave.  (the  line  swings  two  blocks 
to  the  east  and  continues  up  8th  ave.  Passengers  should  remember 
that  iioth  St.  to  123d  St.,  Morningside  Park  lies  on  the  west,  with  steep 
stairways  which  must  be  ascended  on  foot);  iioth  st.,  near  Columbus 
ave.  (elevators);  ii6th  st.  and  8th  ave.;  125th  st.  and  8th  ave.;  130th 
St.  and  8th  ave.;  135th  st.  and  8th  ave.;  140th  st.  and  8th  ave.;  145th 
St.  and  8th  ave.;  155th  st.  and  8th  ave.  Connects  with  the  Putnam 
Division  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  &  H.  R.  R.  R. 

Ninth  Avenue  Elevated  Stations  are:  South  Ferry;  Battery  Place: 
Rector  and  Greenwich  sts.;  Cortlandt  and  Greenwich  sts.;  Barclay  and 
Greenwich  sts.;  Warren  and  Greenwich  sts.;  Franklin  and  Greenwich 
sts.;  Desbrosses  and  Greenwich  sts.;  Houston  and  Greenwich  sts.; 
Christopher  and  Greenwich  sts.;  14th  st.  and  9th  ave.;  23d  st.  and 
9th  ave.;  30th  st.  and  9th  ave.;  34th  st.  and  9th  ave.;  42d  st.  and 
9th  ave.;  50th  st.  and  9th  ave.;  59th  st.  and  9th  ave.;  from  here  the 
trains  run  over  the  same  tracks  as  the  6th  ave.  trains,  and  stop  at  the 
stations  already  mentioned — at  66th,  72d,  8ist,  86th,  93d,  99th,  104th, 
Iioth,  ii6th,  i2Sth,  130th,   135th,  140th,  145th,  and  issth  sts. 

The  2(1,  3d  and  gth  Ave.  Elevated  lines  have  recently  com- 
pleted the  instalment  of  a  third-track  system,  with  express 
stations  at  the  following  points : 

Second  Avenue:  City  Hall;  Chatham  Sq.;  14th  st.;  42d  st.;  86th 
St.;  135th  St. 

Third  Avenue:  City  Hall;  Chatham  Sq. ;  Canal  St.;  Grand  St.; 
Houston  St.;  9th  St.;  23d  st.;  42d  St.;  io6th  St.;  125th  St.;  (Bronx) 
133d  St.;   138th  St.;   143d  St.;   149th  st. 

Ninth  Avenue:  Cortlandt  St.;  Warren  st. ;  Desbrosses  St.;  Chris- 
topher St.;  14th  St.;  34th  St.;  66th  St.;  ii6th  st.;  125th  st.;  i4Sth  St.; 
155th   St. 

Surface  Cars  (Tramways),  Nearly  all  the  avenues  run- 
ning N.  and  S.  and  most  of  the  important  cross-streets  arc 
traversed  by  Surface  Cars  (Tramways,  Street  Cars),  prac- 
tically all  operated  by  electricity  ("underground  trolley 
system"  used  almost  exclusively  in  Manhattan,  an 
exception  being  the  crosstown  line  on  135th  st.  and  one 
or  two  lines  operated  by  storage  batteries.  In  the  other 
boroughs  the  overhead  system  is  regularly  adopted). 
Uniform  fare  for  any  distance,  5c.  About  500  million 
passengers  are  carried  annually,  and  overcrowding  is  nearly 
constant.  Transfer  tickets  are  usually  furnished  without  ex- 
tra charge  for  the  cross-lines  (42nd  St.  Crosstown  Line 
transfers  only  to  loth  ave.,  red  Broadway,  and  3d  ave. 
lines).  The  cars  stop  at  the  lower  crossings  going  up  and 
at  the  upper  crossings  going  down  town.  All  lines  run  every 
few  minutes,  and  most  of  them  run  all  night.  The  important 
lines  are  the  following:  Broadway,  Third,  Fourth,  Madison. 
Sixth,  and  Eighth  Avenues;  West  Side  Belt  Line    (Tenth 


URBAN   TRAVEL— RAILROADS  35 

'  Ave.)>  passing  all  the  N.  River  ferries;  East  Side  Belt  Line 
(First  Ave.)»  passing  all  the  E.  River  ferries;  and  the  Cross- 
town  lines  on  14th,  23rd,  34th,  and  42nd  sts.  Several  car  lines 
run  on  Broadway:  the  Broadway  Line  runs  up  Broadway  to 
45th  St.,  to  7th  Ave.  to  59th  St. ;  the  Columbus  Ave.  Line  fol- 
lows the  same  route  to  7th  Ave.  and  53rd  St.,  then  over  to 
Columbus  Ave.  and  north ;  the  Broadway  and  Amsterdam  Ave. 
Line  follows  the  route  of  the  Columbus  Ave.  Line  to  where 
Columbus  Ave.  and  Broadway  intersect,  then  continues  north 
on  Broadway  and  Amsterdam  Aves. ;  the  Lexington  Ave.  Line 
runs  on  Broadway  to  23rd  St.,  then  north  on  Lexington  Ave. 
Passengers  board  the  cars  at  the  rear  or  center  doorway  and 
pay  as  they  enter.  A  blue  light  indicates  cars  between  Brook- 
lyn Bridge  and  135th  st.,  a  yellow  light  those  between  Canal  or 
Broome  st.  and  ii6th  st,  a  green  light  those  between  Astor 
Place  and  86th  st.  A  red  light  signifies  that  the  car  is  not 
carrying  passengers.  The  new  Loop  Subway,  connecting  the 
Manhattan  ends  of  Brooklyn,  Manhattan,  and  Williamsburg 
bridges,  is  traversed  by  electric  cars,  greatly  facilitating  inter- 
course with  Long  Island  points   (p.  32). 

The   Hudson   Tunnels   of  the   Hudson   and   Manhattan 
R.  R.  Co.,  30  Church  st,  connect  Manhattan  with  New  Jersey 
by  two  sets  of  tunnels  or  "tubes."    The  lower  New  York 
terminus  is  the  Hudson  Terminal  Building  (see  p.  136).    En- 
trances on  Cortlandt,  Dey,  and  Fulton  sts.,  west  of  Church 
St.    (i^  blocks  W.  of  Fulton  st.  Subway  Station).    Trains 
from   there   run   to   Penn.   R.   R.    Station   at   Exchange   pi., 
Jersey  City  (3  min.),  Erie  R.  R.  Station  foot  of  Pavonia  ave., 
Jersey  City  (6  min.),  Grove  and  Henderson  sts..  Summit  ave. 
(8  min.),  and  Hoboken  at  the  D.  L.  and  W.  R.  R.  Station  (9 
min.).    The  Uptown  New  York  Stations  are  on  Sixth  ave.  at 
33rd  st   (one  block  E.  of  Penn.  Station),  28th  st.,  23rd  St., 
19th  st,  14th  St.,  and  9th  st.,  and  on  Christopher  st.  betw. 
Hudson  and  Greenwich  sts.    Trains  run  from  Christopher  st. 
to  Erie  R.  R.  Station,  Jersey  City,  in  6  min. :  part  proceed  to 
stations  West,  but  passengers  may  change  downtown  or  for 
Penn.  R.  R.  Station.    Fare  betw.  Hudson  Terminal  and  sta- 
tions in  Jersey  City  and  Hoboken,  5c.    Fare  betw.  Uptown 
N.  Y.  stations  and  Jersey  City  and  Hoboken,  7c.    Local  fare 
bet\sr.  Uptown  N.  Y.  stations  and  local  fare  betw.  stations  in 
Jersey  City  and  Hoboken,  5c.    There  is  also  tunnel  service 
betw.  N.  Y.  City  and  Newark,  N.  J.,  via  Jersey  City.    Fare 
17c.    Time  from  Hudson  Terminal,  20  min.    Passengers  from 
uptown  N.  Y.  stations  ior  Newark  should  change  at  Grove 
and  Henderson  sts.  stations. 


36     '  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY      , 

The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  Tunnels,  used  by  the  trains 
of  the  Long  island  R.  R.,  passing  from  the  New  York  Penn. 
Station  under  33d  st.  and  the  East  River  to  Long  Island 
City,  and  the  Steinway  (Belnwnt)  Tunnel  passing  under  the 
East  River  from  E.  426  st.  to  Long  Island  City,  connect 
Manhattan  with  Long  Island. 

VII.    Urban  Travel — Ferries.    Water  Services 

Ferries  (see  Plan).  To  Brooklyn,  from  Fulton  st.,  Whitehall  st. 
(South  Ferry).  To  South  Brooklyn,  from  Wnitchall  st.  (South  Ferrv) 
(5  c.)  To  Williamsburg  or  East  Brooklyn,  from  Roosevelt  St.,  E. 
Houston  St.,  £.  23d  st.  To  Greenpoint,  from  £.  loth  st.  and  E.  230  st. 
To  Hunter's  Point,  Long  Island  City,  from  E.  34th  st.  To  Astoria, 
Long  Island  City,  from  E.  gad  st.  To  Jersey  City:  from  Desbrosses 
St.  and  from  Cortlandt  st.  to  Pennsylvania  Railwajr  Station;  from  W. 
23d  St.  and  Liberty  st.  to  Central  of  New  Jersey  Railway  Station  (Com- 
munipaw;  fare  3c.);  from  Chambers  st.  and  from  W.  23d  st.  to  Pavonia 
ave.  and  Erie  Railroad  (comp.  also  p.  37).  To  Hohoken,  from  Barclay, 
Christopher,  and  W.  a-jd  sts.  To  Weehawken  (West  Shore  R.  R.). 
from  W.  42d  st.  and  Cortlandt  st.  To  Edgewater,  for  Fort  Lee  ana 
Palisade  Park,  from  W.  130th  st.  (5  c).  To  Staten  Island,  from 
Whitehall  st.  (South  Ferry;  5  c).  To  College  Point  (Queen's  Bor- 
ough), from  E.  99th  St.  and  from  E.  134th  st.  (10  c.).  To  BlackwelfJl 
Island  from  £.  26th,  E.  53d,  and  E.  70th  st.,  (pass  required;  no  charge; 
p.  no).  To  Ward's  Island,  from  E.  ii6th  st.  (pass;  s  c).  To  Ran- 
dall's Island,  from  E.  26th,  E.  120th,  and  E.  125th  sts.  (pass:  no 
charge,  p.  108).  To  Hart!s  Island,  from  E.  ■26th  st.  (i>ass).  To  Hiker's- 
Island,  from  E.  26th  st.  (pass;  no  charge).  To  Liberty  Island  (see 
p.  105),  to  Governor's  Island  (hourly;  pass;  p.  105),  and  to  Ellis  Island 
(free;  p.  106),  from  the  Battery.  The  ferries  ply  at  frequent  intervals, 
the  more  important  running  every  few  minutes  in  the  business  hours. 
Fares  generally  3  or  5  c.  The  various  "railroad  ferries"  are  free  to 
persons  holding  railroad  tickets,  the  ferriage  being  part  of  the  ticket. 

The  Sight-seeing  Yachts  leave  Battery  Park  Pier,  near 
South  Ferry  (reached  by  subway  or  any  elevated  line)  at 
10.30  a.  m,  and  2.30  p.  m.  To  circumnavigate  Manhattan 
Island  (2j^  hr.  $1).  A  yacht  leaves  the  same  pier  at  1.30 
p.  m.  to  see  the  forts,  bay,  and  Sandy  Hook,  returning  at 
5  p.  m.  ($1.) 

With  the  exception  of  the  ferry  boats,  New  York  has  no 
local  steamboat  service,  either  in  the  North  or  the' East  River, 
analogous  to  the  passenger  steamboats  on  the  Thames  in 
London,  or  the  bateaux-omnibus  on  the  Seine  in  Paris.  Most 
of  the  Hudson  River  Steamboat?  lines  (p.  43)  stop  at 
129th  St.,  both  going  and  returning;  so  that,  morning  and 
evening,  it  is  possible  to  take  this  pleasant  trip,  covering 
about  eight  miles  of  the  city's  western  water-front. 


RAILROAD  STATIONS,  TICKET  OFFICES,  ETC.       Z1 

VIII.    Railroad  Stations,  Ticket  Offices,  etc. 

a.    Railroad  Stations. 

a.  Grand  Central  Station  (PI.  IV— E3)  Park  ave.  and 
42d  St.  {See  p,  114)  :  The  terminal  for  the  New  York  Central  & 
Hudson  River  R.  R.  (for  Albany,  New  York  State  in  general, 
Buffalo,  Chicago  and  the  West) ;  the  Harlem  Division 
of  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.  (for 
Mount  Vernon,  White  Plains  and  other  points  north  of  New 
York  City)  ;  and  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford 
R.  R.  (for  all  points  in  New  England). 

b.  Pennsylvania  Terminal  (PI.  Ill— B3)  7th  to  8th 
avenues,  31st  to  33d  streets.  {See  p.  116)  :  The  terminal 
for  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (for  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
Washington,  Pittsburgh  and  the  South  and  West  in  general) 
and  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  (for  all  points  on  Long  Island). 

c.  Erie  Terminal  Station.  Pavonia  avenue,  Jersey  City. 
Reached  by  ferries  from  Chambers  st.  and '  W.  23d  St., 
New  York  City.  The  terminal  for  the  Erie  R.  R.  (for  points 
in  southern  New  York  state,  northern  New  Jersey,  Buffalo 
and  the  West)  the  New  York  Susquehanna  &  Western  R.  R. 
(for  suburban  points  in  northern  New  Jersey),  the  iVew  Jersey 
&  New  York  R.  R.  (for  suburban  points  in  northern  New 
Jersey)  and  the  Northern  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  (for  suburban 
.points  in  northern  New  Jersey  along  the  Hudson  River  and 
Rockland  County,  N.  Y.) 

d.  Lackawanna  Terminal,  fioboken.  Reached  by  ferries 
from  Barclay  St.,  Christopher  st.  and  W.  23d  st.,  New  York 
City.  The  terminal  of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  West- 
ern R.  R.  (for  suburban  points  in  northern  New  Jersey, 
southern  New  York  state,  northern  Pennsylvania,  Buffalo 
and  the  West). 

e.  West  Shore  Terminal  Station.  Weehawken,  N.  J. 
(about  opposite  50  st.  New  York  City).  Reached 
by  ferries  from  Cortlandt  st.  and  W.  42d  st..  New  York 
City.  The  terminal  of  the  IVest  Shore  R.  R.  (for  points 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson  River,  New  York  State  and 
the  West)  and  the  New  York,  Ontario  &  Western  R,  R.  (for 
points  in  central  New  York  State). 

f.  Pennsylvania  Jersey  City  Terminal.  Reached  by  fer- 
ries from  W.  23d  St.,  Desbrosses  St.,  Cortlandt  st.  and  also 
from  Fulton  st.,  Brooklyn.  This  was  the  main  terminal 
station  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  before  the  erection  of  the 
new  terminal  station  on  Manhattan  Island,  and  still  offers 
an  alternative  method  of  taking  Pennsylvania  trains.  Prac- 


38  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

tically,  however,  it  is  now  little  used,  as  few  trains  depart 
from  it  and  travelers  from  downtown  New  York  can  make 
better  connections  by  taking  Hudson  Tunnel  trains  {See  p. 
35)  for  Manhattan  Transfer,  a  station  out  on  the  Newark 
marshes,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  main  line  from  the  Manhattan  main  terminal  station. 

g.  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  Terminal.  In  Jer- 
sey City  south  of  the  Pennsylvania  Terminal,  in  the  Com- 
munipaw  section.  Reached  by  ferries  from  W.  23d  st.  and 
Liberty  st. :  The  terminal  for  the  Central  Railroad  of 
New  Jersey  (Reading  system)  (for  Bayonne,  suburban  points 
in  central  and  southern  New  Jersejr,  the  New  Jersey  coast 
resorts — Long  Branch,  Atlantic  Highlands,  Asbury  Park, 
etc. — ^and  for  Philadelphia,  the  South  and  West)  ;  and  the 
Lehigh  Valley  R,  R.  (for  points  in  Pennsylvania  and  the 
West. 

h.  125th  St.  Station.  Many  trains  on  the  New  York, 
New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  and  practically  all  on 
the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad  stop  at  a 
station  at  125th  st  and  Park  ave.,  Manhattan.  This  station 
is  often  convenient  to  travelers  stopping  uptown,  as  it  saves 
the  fifteen  minute  ride  down  to  42d  st.  Stops  are  made 
by  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  trains  and 
Harlem  Division  trains  at  138th  st.  (PI.  XI — C7),  High 
Bridge  (PI.  XI— B5),  Kingsbridge  (PI.  XI— B2),  and  other 
points  in  the  Bronx.  ^ 

i.  155th  St.  Station.  At  the  terminus  of  the  9th  Avenue 
Elevated  line,  at  Eighth  ave.  and  155th  St.,  Manhattan,  on 
the  Harlem  River,  is  the  terminal  of  the  Putnam  division  of 
the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.  (for  suburban 
points  in  the  Bronx  and  Westchester  county  north  of  the 
Bronx).    The  tourist  will  have  little  use  for  this  line. 

j.  The  New  York,  Westchester  &  Boston  R.  R.,  a  splen- 
didly built,  electrically  operated  four-track  commuting  rail- 
road, and  the  Harlem  division  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven 
&  Hartford  R.  R.  (not  to  be  confused  with  the  Harlem 
division  of  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.) 
have  their  terminals  at  Mott  Haven,  reached  by  a  shuttle  train 
from  the  3d  Avenue  Elevated  R.  R.  at  129th  st.  and  the 
Harlem  River.  The  former  is  the  key  to  a  still  rather  un- 
developed suburban  territory  in  the  Bronx  and  Westchester 
county  and  offers  an  alternative  route  to  White  Plains  with 
a  branch  line  to  Pelham  and  New  Rochelle.  The  latter 
runs  through  the  northeastern  section  of  the  Bronx  to  New 
Rochelle  (see  p.  388). 


RAILROAD  STATIONS,  .TICKET  OFFICES,  ETC.       39 

k.  Long  Island  City  Terminal.  The  Long  Island  R.  R. 
still  maintains  a  terminal  station  at  Long  Island  City  (reached 
by  ferry  from  E.  34th  st.)  Like  the  Pennsylvania  station  in 
Jersey  City,  however,  it  is  practically  little  used  since  the 
opening  of  the  Pennsylvania  Terminal  on  Manhattan  with  its 
connecting  tunnels. 

1.  Atlantic  Avenue  Terminal.  At  the  intersection  of 
Flatbush  and  Atlantic  aves.  in  Brooklyn  the  Long  Island  R.  R. 
maintains  its  main  western  terminal  (see  p.  419).  It  is 
conveniently  reached  by  the  Subway  from  downtown  Man- 
hattan, and  is  generally  used  by  the  latter  section  in  prefer- 
ence to  the  33d  St.  terminal. 

m.  30th  Street  Station:  On  the  south  side  of  30th  st. 
between  loth  and  nth  avenues  is  the  southerly  terminal  of 
the  Spuyten  Duyvil  branch  of  the  New  York  Central  &  Hud- 
son River  R.  R.,  which  runs  south  along  the  Hudson  River 
from  Spujrten  Duyvil  to  59th  st.  and  then  down  nth  avenue 
to  30th  St.  Most  born  and  bred  New  Yorkers  do  not  know 
of  the  existence  of  this  station,  and  it  has  slight  interest  to 
the  tourist. 

n.  It  should  be  recalled  that  every  station  of  the  Hudson 
Tunnels  (see  p.  35)  is  in  one  sense  a  terminal  of  the 
New  Jersey  railroads  with  which  it  directly  connects, 
vis.:  the  Erie,  Delaware,  Lackawanna.  &  Western, 
Pennsylvania,  etc.  It  should  also  be  mentioned  that  each 
of  the  great  ferry  houses  at  W.  42d  st.,  E.  34tli  st.,  W.  a3d  st., 
Desbrosses  st.,  Chambers  st.,  Cortlandt  st.  Liberty  st,  etc., 
is  a  terminal  of  its  respective  railroad,  where  tickets  may  be 
bought,  baggage  checked,  etc. 

b.    Railroad  City  Ticket  Offices. 

^  RAILROADS    WITH    TERMINAL    AT    NEW    YORK    CITY. 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R,  R.:  149  Broad- 
way; 233  Broadway;  2094  Seventh  ave. ;  225  Fifth  ave. ;  1216 
Broadway. 

Pennsylvania  R.R.:  170  Broadway;  461  Broadway;  487 
Fifth  ave. ;  30  Church  st. ;  153  W.  125th  st. 

Erie  R.  R.:  399  Broadway;  1278  Broadway;  Concourse, 
Hudson  Terminal  Bldg.,  30  Church  st. ;  24  Court  st.,  Brook- 
lyn; 122  River  st.,  Hoboken. 

West  Shore  R.  R.:  (same  as  New  York  Central  &  Hudson 
R.  R.) 


40  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Delazvare,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.:  Wall  st.  and 
Broadway;    429    Broadway;    1183    Broadway;    1465    Broad- 
way ;  2293  Broadway ;  251  W.  125th  st.    Also  505  Fulton  st. ; 
•   726  Fulton  St. ;  and  954  Broadway,  E.  D.  Brooklyn. 

New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.:  171  Broad- 
way. Also,  as  agents,  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  at  245  Broadway, 
561  Fifth  ave.  and  2081  Broadway;  Raymond  &  Whitcomb 
Co.  at  225  Fifth  ave.;  Westcott  Express  Co.  at  316  Amster- 
dam ave.  and  i  W.  i2Sth  st. ;  and  New  York  Transfer  Co.  at 
1354  Broadway,  2174  Broadway  and  4  W.  125th  st. 

Long  Island  R.  R,:    170  Broadway;  200  Fifth  ave. 

New  York,  Ontario  &  Western  R.  R.:    387  Broadway. 

RAILROADS    NOT    TOUCHING    NEW    YORK    CITY. 

Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe:  377  Broadway. 

Atlantic   Coast  Line:     11 98   Broadway. 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.:  379  Broadway;  1^76  Broadway;  7 
Cortlandt  st. 

Burlington   Route:      1184    Broadway. 

Canadian  Pacific  Rwy.  Co.:  485  Broadway;  281-  Fifth  ave;  1231 
Broadway. 

Central  of   Ga.    Rwy.    Co.:     291    Broadway;    501    Fifth    ave. 

Central  Vermont  Rwy.:     385  Broadway. 

Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Rwy.   Co.:     2gg  Broadway;    1238  Broadway. 

Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.   Paul:      1200   Broadway. 

Chicago,   Rock   Island   &   Pacific   R.    R.:      1238    Broadway. 

Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha  R.  R.:     1282  Broadway. 

Chicago  &  Eastern  Illinois  R.  R.:     385   Broadway. 

Chicago  &  Northwestern  R.  R.:  1282  Broadway;  233  Broadway. 

Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (Big  Four 
route)  :     Grand  Central  Terminal. 

Colorado  &  Southern   Lines:      11 84   Broadway. 

Delaware  &  Hudson   Co.:     1354   Broadway. 

Denver  &  Rio  Grande  R.  R.:  291    Broadway;    1246   Broadway. 

Florida  East  Coast  Rwy.   Co.:     243   Fifth  ave.;   26   Broadway. 

Frisco  Lines:     385    Broadway. 

Grand    Trunk    Rwy.    System:      290    Broadway. 

Great  Northern  Rwy.  Co.:     1184  Broadway. 

Illinois  Central  R.  R.:     501    Fifth  ave. 

Intercolonial   Rwy.    of    Canada:      1246    Broadway. 

Kansas  City,  Mexico,  Orient  R.   R.:     290   Broadway. 

Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.:  398  Broadway;  94  Broadway;  1460  Broadway; 
1236  Broadway. 

Louisville  &  Nashrnlle  R.  R.:     11 82  Broadway. 

Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste  Marie  Rwv.  ("Soo"  line) :  1270 
Broadway. 

Minneapolis  &  St.   Louis  R.  R.:     299   Broadway. 

Missouri,   Kansas   &   Texas  Rwy.   Co.:     290   Broadway. 

Missouri  Pacific  Rwy.:     1246  Broadway. 


RAILROAD  STATIONS,  TICKET  OFFICES,  ETC.       41 

New   York,   Chicago   &  St.  Louis  R.   R.    ("Nickel   Plate"   routeV 
38s    Broadway. 

Norfolk   &   Western  Rwy.:     1245   Broadway. 

Northern  Pacific  Rwy.:  219  Broadway;  1244  Broadway. 

Oregon  Short  Line  R.  R.:     236  Broadway. 

Pere  Marquette  R.   R.:     290   Broadway. 

St.  Louis,  Southwestern  Rwy.:     290   Broadway. 

St.  Louis  &  San  Francisco  R.  R.:     385  Broadway. 

Seaboard  Air  Line  Rwy.:      11 84   Broadway. 

Southern  Pacific  Co.:     39  Broadway;  1158  Broadway. 

Texas  &  Pacific  Rwy.:     1246  Broadway. 

Toledo,  St.  Louis  &  Western  R.  R.:     299  Broadway. 

Union  Pacific  R.  R.:     236  Broadway. 

Wabash  R.  R.:     387   Broadway. 

Western   Maryland   Rwy.:      71    Broadway;    290    Broadway. 

Western    Pacific    Rwy.:      291    Broadway;    1246    Broadway. 


FOREIGN  RAILROADS. 

French  State  Railways  Bureau:     2  Rector  st. 
Great   Eastern   Rwy.    of   England:      261  'Broadway. 
Great  Western  Rwy.  of  England:     501    Fifth  avc. 
International  Sleeping  Car  Co.:     281    Fifth  ave. 
London  &  North   Western  Rwy.:     287   Fifth  ave. 
London   &  Southwestern  Rwy.:     281    Fifth  ave. 
Netherland  State  Rwys.:     334  Fifth  ave. 
Paris-Lyon-Mediterran6e  Rwy.:     281    Fifth   ave. 
Trans-Siberian  Rwy.:     281    Fifth   ave. 

c.    Tourist  and  Freight  Agents 

Tourist  Agents.  V.  V.  Beard  311  Fifth  ave.;  H.  P.  Bender,  1328 
Broadway;  Bermuda  Tourist  Bureau,  1180  Broadway;  Bretton  Woods 
Hotel  Booking  Offict,  243  Fifth  ave.;  Clark's  Tours,  Times  Bldg.; 
Thomas  Cook  and  Son,  245  Broadway,  Broadway  and  72d  St.,  264  Fifth 
ave.,  and  561  Fifth  ave.;  O.  A.  Dickinson,  Broadway  and  23d  st. ; 
European  Tours  De  Luxe,  Inc.,  1  Madison  avef.;  European  Travelers' 
Bureau,  73  West  st.;  Frank  Tourist  Co.,  398  Broadway;  Gillespie, 
Kinports  &  Beard,  511  Fifth  ave.;  Keewaydin  Camps  Co.,  150  Nassau 
St.;  H.  A.  Kinports,  311  Fifth  ave.;  McCann's  Tours,  1328  Broadway; 
McGrane's  Catholic  Tours,  505  Fifth  ave.;  G.  E.  Marsters,  1246  Broad- 
way; Raymond  and  Whitcomb  Co.,  225  Fifth  ave.;  Royal  Tours,  1328 
Broadway;  Scandinavian  Trazrel  Bureau,  18  Broadway;  Anning  J. 
Smith,    149    Broadway;    Spur    Travel   Bureau,    389    Fifth    ave. 

Freight  Agents.  American  European  Forwarding  Co.,  i  Broad- 
way; J.  J.  Archbold,  Inc.,  403  West  st.;  Interocean  Transport  Co.,  90 
West  St.;  Italian  American  Forwarding  Co.,  24  State  St.;  Latin- 
American  Express  Co.,  68  Broad  St.;  Thomas  Meadows  &  Co.,  10 
Bridge  st.;  Merchants  Despatch,  65  Broadway;  Miller  Packing  Co., 
8  W.  13th  St.;  National  Despatch  Fast  Freight  Line,  82  Wall  st.; 
New  York  &  New  Jersey  Trans.  Co.,  1  Broadway;  Ocean  Transporta- 
tion Co.,  25  Beaver  St.;  Russian  Amerfcan  Line,  8  Bridge  St.;  Tooker 
Storage  &   Forwarding  Co.,  28th  st.   and    nth   ave. 


42  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

IX.    Steamship  and  Steamboat  Lines  and  Offices. 

I.  Ocean    Steamships    (Foreign).     The    following    list 

gives   the   chief    Passenger    Steamship    Lines   between    New 

York  and  Europe,  with  their  docks  and  steamship  offices : 

Cunard  Line,  Piers  53,  54  and  56,  North  River,  foot  of  Bloomfield 
St.,   13th  St.,  and   14th  st.    (office,   21-24   State  St.;   Wed.  and  alternate 
Sat.;   to   Gibraltar,   Genoa,  and  Naples  fortnightly);    White  Star  Line, 
Piers  50  and   60,  North   River,  at  foot  of  W.    i8th  and   19th  sts.    (ot- 
fice,  9  Br-oadway ;  Wed.  and  Thurs. ;  to  Mediterranean  ports  once  or  twice 
a  month) ;  American  Line  (International  Mercantile  Marine  Co.),  Pier 
62,    North    River,    foot    of    W.    23rd    st.     (office,    9    Broadway;    Fri.); 
Holland-American    Line,    foot    of    5th    st.,    Hoboken    (office,    24    State 
St.;    to    Boulogne   and    Rotterdam    on    Tues.) ;    Anchor   Line,    Pier    64, 
North    River,    foot   of   W.    24th    st.    (office,    21    State    St.:    Sat.;    Medi- 
terranean   steamers    sail    frdm    Union    Stores,    Brooklyn);    Compagnie 
GSnSrale   Transatlantique    (French  Line),   Pier   57,   North   River,    15th 
St.    (office,   19  State  st.;  Wed.);  North  German  Lloyd,  foot  of  2d,   3d, 
and    4th    sts.,    Hoboken    (office,    5    Broadway;    Tues.    and    Thurs.;    to 
Gibraltar,   Genoa,   and   Naples   weekly) ;   Hamburg-American   Line,   foot 
of     ist    St.,    Hoboken,    and    foot    of    33rd    St.,    Brooklyn     (office,     45 
Broadway;    Sat.,    Thurs.,    and    Tues.;    to    Genoa    and    Naples    weekly); 
Red  Star  Line   (International  Mercantile  Marine  Co.),  Pier   59,   North 
River,   foot   of  21st   st.    (office,   9    Broadway;    Sat.   or   Wed.);    Atlantic 
Transport,    Pier    58,     North  River,    foot    of    W.     i6th    st.     (office,     9 
Broaoway;  Sat.) ;  Italian  Royal  Mail  Line,  for  Genoa  and  Naples,  Pier 
74,     foot     of     W.     34th     St.     (office,     24     Whitehall     st.;     Wed.;     also 
fortnightly  to  the  W.  Indies);  Scandinavian-American  Line,  foot  of  17th 
St.,     Hoboken      (office,      i      Broadway).       Austro-American     Line:     to 
Mediterranean     Ports;      Office,      17     Battery     Place;      Pier     5,      Bush 
Terminal,      Brooklyn       (42d      St.);       sailings    temporarily      suspended. 
Compania      Trasatlantica       (Spanish      Line);      to      Cadiz,      Barcelona 
and^    Havana;      Office     at      Pier      8,      East      River      (Coehties     Slip). 
Italian    Royal    Mail    Lines    (including    the     Italia    Line.     La     Veloce 
Line,     and     Navagazione     Generale     Italiana     Line) :     to     Naples     and 
Genoa;    Office,    i    State   St.;    Pier    74,    North    River    (34th    st.).     Lloyd 
Italian    Lines:     to    Genoa,    Naples    and    Palmero;    Office,    i    State    St.; 
Pier  74  North  River   (34th  St.).     Lloyd  Sabaudo  Line:  Mediterranean 
Ports;  Office  .^2  Broadway.     Norwegian  American  Line:  to  Bergen  and 
Kristiania;   Office,  8-10   Bridge  st.;   Pier  4,  foot  of  45th  st.,   Brooklyn. 
Russian-American   Line:    to   Archangel;    Office,    37    Broadway;    Pier   5, 
South  Brooklyn. 

2. — INSULAR  AND   SOUTH    AMERICAN   LINES. 

The  principal  Coastwise  and  South  American  Lines  are:  Lamport 
and  Holt  Line,  Pier  8,  Roberts  Stores,  East  River,  Brooklyn  (office,  301 
Produce  Exchange;  every  other  Sat.;  to  Brazil,  Uruguay,  and  Argen- 
tina); Booth  Ltne.  Pier  4,  Martin's  Stores,  East  River,  Brooklyn 
(office,  17  Battery  PI.;  to  Brazil,  Peru,  and  the  Barbadoes) ;  New  York 
and  Cuba  Mail  S.  S.  Co.,  Pier  14,  East  River,  foot  of  Fulton  st.  (office, 
Pier  14,  East  River.;  Thurs  and  Sat.  to  Cuba  and  Mexico;  alternate 
Sat.  to  Nassau;  Fri.  to  Mexico).  New  York  and  Porto  Rico  S.  S.  Co., 
Piers  34  and  35,  Atlantic  Basin,  Brooklyn  (office,  11  Broadway:  Sat. 
for  Porto  Rican  ports);  Red  *'D"  Line,  Pier  11,  Robert's  Stores,  Brook- 
lyn (office,  88  Wall  St.;  Wed.  for  Porto  Rico.  Dutch  W.  I.,  and  Vene- 
zuela); United  Fruit  Co..  Pier  16,  East  River,  foot  of  Barclay  st. 
(office,    17    Battery   PI.;    Wed.    and    Sat.    for   Jamaica,    Colon    (Panama 


STEAMSHIP  LINES  AND  OFFICES  43 

Canal),  and  Colombia  or  Costa  Rica);  Royal  Dutch  West  Indies  Mail 
Co..  Pier  3,  Bush  Docks,  Brooklyn  (oflBce,  17  State  St.:  Fri.  for  West 
Indies  and  South  American  ports) ;  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  Pier 
4a,  North  River,  Morton  st.  (office,  26  Broadway ;- alternate  Sat.  for 
Cuba,  Jamaica,  Colon,  Colombia;  sailings  for  Bermuda);  Atlas  Service 
for  Hamburg- American  Line,  Pier  6^,  North  River,  foot  of  W.  asth  st. 
(office,  45  Broadway;,  weekly  for  Cuba,  Jamaica,  Panama  (connecting 
for  points  on  west  coast  Central  and.  South  America  and  Mexico  at 
Colon),  and  Co^ta  Rica;  fortnightly  for  Nicaragua;  weekly  for  Havti, 
Colombia  and  Jamaica) ;  Quebec  S.  S.  Co.,  Pier  47,  North  River,  foot 
of  Perry  st.  (office,  29  Broadway;  to  Bermuda,  St.  Thomas,  St.  Kitts, 
and  Barbados);  Panama  R.  R.  S.  S.  Co.,  Pier  67,  foot  of  W.  27th  st. 
(office,  24  State  St.;  every  5  days  for  Canal  Zone;  Munson 
Line:  to  Cuba;  Office,  82  Beaver  st.;  Pier  9,  Elast  River  (Old 
Slip).  Panama-Pacific  Line:  to  San  Francisco  via  Panama  Canal; 
Office,  9  Broadway;  Pier  61,  North  River;  Trinidad  Line:  to  Trinidad, 
Demerara  and  Paramaribo;   Office,  29  Broadway;   Pier  24,  Brooklyn. 

3. — ATLANTIC   COAST  LINES. 

Old  Dominion  S.  S.  Co.,  Pier  25,  North  River,  foot  of  N. 
Moore  st.  (office  on  pier;  daily  for  Old  Point  Comfort,  Norfolk, 
Richmond,  Va.);  Ocean  S.  S.  Co.  of  Savannah,  Pier  35,  North 
River,  foot  of  Spring  st.  (office  at  pier  and  501  Fifth  ave.; 
Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  for  Savannah,  Ga.) ;  Clyde  Line,  Pier  32, 
North  River,  foot  of  Spring  st.  (office.  290  and  958  Broadway; 
Tues.,  Wed.^  Fri.  and  Sat.  for  Charleston,  S.  C,  and  Jacksonville,  Fla.; 
Fri.  for  Wilmington,  N.  C,  and  Georgetown,  S.  C.) ;  Mallory  Line, 
Piers  38  and  45,  North  River,  foot  of  King  and  W.  loth  sts.  (offices, 
290  and  958  Broadway,  and  Pier  45;  Sat.  for  Key  West,  Tampa, 
Mobile,  Galveston,  Brunswick,  Ga.);  Southern  Pacific  Co.,  Pier  49, 
North  River,  foot  of  W.  nth  st.  (office,  366  Broadway;  Wed.  and  Sat. 
for  New  Orleans,  La.;  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  for  Cfalveston,  Texas); 
Red  Cross  Line,  Pier  32,  foot  of  Degraw  st.,  Brooklsm  (office^  17  Bat- 
tery PL;  Sat.  for  Halifax,  N.  S.,  and  St.  Johns^  N.  F.);  MoMte  S.  S. 
Line,  Pier  19,  North  River,  foot  of  Vesey  st.  (office  on  pier  and  290 
Broadway;  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sat.  for  Portland,  Me. ;  Mon.  also  in  summer). 

4.  River,  Sound  and  Harbor  Steamers.  The  following 
are  a  few  of  the  principal  points  on  the  Hudson,  Long  Island 
Sound*,  and  New  York  Harbor  reached  by  steamer  from  New 
York.  For  full  information  on  these  and  other  lines, 
*  reference  must  be  made  to  current  time-tables  and  daily 
papers.  The  larger  American  river  steamboats  are  very 
finely  fitted  up,  and  the  Fall  River  and  Hudson  River  boats 
are  more  like  hotels  than  boats.  There  are  good  restaurants 
on  board;  the  regular  ticket  usually  entitles  the  traveler  to 
a  cabin  bunk,  and  a  comfortable  private  stateroom  (2-3 
berths)  may  be  obtained  for  a  small  addition  to  the  regular 
fare  (usually  $1-2  per  night;  large  rooms  with  brass  bed- 
steads, $5-7).  The  Hudson  River  boats  cease  running  in 
winter,  but  most  of  the  Sound  boats  ply  throughout  the  year. 

Hudson  River  Day  Line  to  Albany,  Pier  32,  North  Rivex;  also 
foot  W.  42d  St.;  People's  Line  (night  line)  to  Albany,  Pier  32,  North 
River;  also  foot  W.  i32d  st.  (fare,  day  boats  $2,  9^  hrs.:  night  boats, 
$2.50;    II   hrs.) — ^To  Catskill  and  Hudson,  either  by  the  Hudson  River 


44  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Day  Line  (see  above;  $1.50,  6yi  hrs.)  or  by  the  Catskill  Evening  Line 
from  the  foot  of  Barrow  st.  ($1.50;  night  boat,  11  hrs.  Bridgeport  Line: 
Piers  28  and  70  East  River,  foot  of  Catherine  and  23d  sts.,  respectively) ; 
Metropolitan  Line:  to  Boston;  Pier  15,  North  River.  Maine  Steamship 
Line:  to  Portland;  Pier  18,  North  River  (front  Warren  st.)  Fall  River 
Line:  to  Boston  via  Fall  River;  Pier  14,  North  River  (foot  of  Fulton  st.). 
Hartford  Line:  to  Hartford;  Pier  19,  East  River  (Peck  Slip).  Neiv 
Haven  Line:  to  New  Haven;  Pier  28,  East  River  (foot  of  Catherine  st.) 
and  Pier  70  (foot  of  E.  23d  St.).  New  London  Line:  Pier  40,  North 
River  (foot  Houston  st.)  Iron  Steamboat  Co.,  for  Coney  Island  and 
Rockaway,  Pier  i  North  River  and  17  Battery  Pl.t  A^.  Y.  and  Long 
Branch  Steamboat  Co.,   6   Battery  PI.,  also   foot  W.   3Sth  st. 

X.    Post  and  Telegraph  Offices.    Telephones,  Ex- 
press Companies 

a.    Postal  Facilities 

Post  Office.  The  old  General  Post  Office  (PI.  II— B2)  City 
Hall  Park,  is  open  day  and  night.  The  Money  Order  Office,  on 
the  second  floor,  Rooms  40-42,  is  open  daily,  except  Sun.  and 
holidays,  9-5.  Money  orders  issued  5  P.  M.  to  midnight  at 
Stamp  Windows  Nos.  i  and  2,  Broadway  Lobby.  The  Gen- 
eral Delivery  windows  (for  Poste  Restante  letters)  are  on 
the  ground-floor.  Park  Row  side.  All  letters  for  persons  who 
call  at  the  General  Delivery  of  the  Post  Office  for  their  mail, 
should  be  marked  "To  be  called  fori"  The  new  Railroad  Post 
Office  (PI.  Ill — A3;  p.  232)  is  located  at  8th  ave.,  31st  to  33d 
sts.,  opposite  the  Pennsylvania  Terminal.  It  contains  very  com- 
plete machinery  for  handling  the  mails  with  great  rapidity,  in 
connection  with  the  trains  of  the  railroad  company.  It  is 
now  the  Main  Administrative  Post  Office  of  the  city. 

The  principal  offices  are   on   the   second   floor:      Postmaster,   Room 
ai8;  hours,  9  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.     Supt.  of  Mails,  Room  230;  9  a.  m.  to 
4  p.   m.      On   general  holidays  all   mails  are   closed   as   on   other  days 
of  the  week,   but  only   such  carrier  deliveries  are  made   as  may   have* 
been  previously  announced. 

Besides  the  Government  Post  Office  diptrict,  the  city  is 
is  divided  into  about  45  post  districts,  each  served  by  a  branch 
post-office  or  carrier  station,  designated  as  a  rule  by  letters 
(Station  A.,  etc.).  Grand  (Central  and  Madison  sq.  stations 
open  week  days  7-12,  for  money  order  business  8-8.  Hudson 
Terminal  open  daily  incl.  Sun.  7-12.  All  other  carrier  stations 
open  week  days  7-8,  for  money  order  business  8-8;  Sun.,  9-1 1 
a.  m. ;  holidays  7-10  a.  m.  (except  High  Bridge,  Sun.  4-6:30 
p.  m.  and  Morris  Heights  4:30-6:30  p.  m.)  No  money  order 
business  Sun.  or  holidays.  Registry  business  holidays  7-10 
a.  m.    None  Sun. 


POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICES,  ETC.  45 

Post  Office  Stations.  Downtown — Main  Office,  City  Hall  Park; 
Hudson  Terminal  Station,  3t  Church  St.;  Wall  St.  Station,  60  Wall  St.; 
Station  P.,  Custom  House  Building,  cor.  Whitehall  and  Bridge  sts.; 
Station  V.,  Broadway  and  Canal  st.  Midtown — Station  A,  132  Greene 
St.;  Station  B,  45  Suffolk  St.;  Station  C,  664  Hudson  St.,  cor.  W.  13th 
St.;  Station  D,  103  E.  12th  St.;  Foreign  Station,  cor.  West  and  Morton 
sts.;  Station  S,  140  Lafayette  st.,  cor»  Howard;  Tompkins  sq.  Station, 
cor.  Ave.  B  and   12th  st.     Uptown — Pennsylvania  Terminal  Station,  W. 


Ave.;  Fox  St.  Station,  167th  st.  cor.  Fox  st.;  Grand  Central  Station, 
no  E.  45th  St.;  Station  K,  202  E.  88th  St.;  Station  L,  141  E.  125th 
St.;  Pelnam  Branch,  Pelham,  Westchester  Co.,  N.  Y.;  Pelhara  Manor 
Branch,  Pelham  Manor,  Westchester  Co.,  N.  Y.;  Station  R,  378  E. 
149th  St.;  Station  T,  507  E.  i6sth  St.;  Tremont  Station,  193 1  Washing- 
ton ave.  bet.  177th  and  178th  sts.;  Station  U,  1863  3rd  ave.;  Westches- 
ter Station,  1471  Williamsbridge  Rd.;  Williamsbridge  Station,  3455 
White  Plains  Ave.,  near  Gun  Hill  rd.;  Station  X,  375  E.  138th  st.; 
Station  Y,  11 60-1 162  3rd  ave.;  City  Island  Station,  City  Island  ave.  and 
Bay  St.  Upper  West  Side — College  Station,  305  W.  140th  st.;  Station 
G,  219  W.  51st  St.;  Station  H,  178  W.  i02d  St.;  Hamilton  Grange  Sta- 
tion, 521  W.  146th  St.;  High  Bridge  Station,  W.  165th  St.,  betw.  Lind 
and  Summit  aves.;  Station  1,232  W.  11 6th  st.;  Station  J,  309  W.  i2^th 
St.;  Kingsbridge  Station,  5233  Broadway,  near  W.  227th  St.;  Station 
M,  2088  Amsterdam  ave.;  Morris  Heights  Station,  262  W.  177th  st.; 
Station  N,  2021  Broadway  cor.  69th  st.;  Station  W,  160  W.  83d  st.; 
Washington  Bridge  Station,  2414  Amsterdam  ave.,  near   i8oth  st. 

There  are  also  about  250  Sub-Stations,  in  druggists'  shops, 
where  all  the  ordinary  postal  services  are  rendered,  including 
the  issue  of  domestic  or  inland  money  orders.  Stamps  may 
be  obtained  from  many  other  shops  (chiefly  druggists')  and 
letters  may  be  posted  in  about  3500  Letter  Boxes  (Painted 
green  when  outdoors),  affixed  to  lamp-posts,  or  in  any  large 
office  building,  hotel  or  railroad  station.  Schedules  of  the 
time  of  collecting  are  posted  on  all  of  the  Letter  Boxes. 
From  4  to  32  collections,  and  from  3  to  12  deliveries 
are  made  dgily  according  to  the  district.  Letters  are  col- 
lected on  Sun.  (at  less  frequent  intervals),  but,  unless  they  are 
"Special  Delivery*  letters,  are  not  delivered  on  Sunday;  mail 
matter  may,  however,  be  obtained  on  Sun.,  9- 11  a.  m.,  on  the 
Mezzanine  Floor,  General  Post  Office,  and  at  the  district 
offices.  The  closing  .time  of  foreign  mails  is  advertised  in 
the  daily  papers;  the  chief  European  mails  leave  on  Tues., 
Wed.,  Fri.,  and  Saturday. 

It  should  be  noted  that  the  Borough  of  Brooklyn  has  its 
own  independent  Post  Office  system,  with  main  office  at 
Washington  and  Johnson  sts.  (p.  402),  and  with  144  sub- 
stations. 

Postage  on  all  letters  should  be  fully  prepaid;  but  the 
custom,  prevalent  abroad,  of  exacting  double  postage  on  let- 
ters sent  "collect"  applies  in  America  only  to  mail  from  for- 


46  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

eign  countries.  Domestic  mail  of  the  first-class  (letters),  if 
prepaid  one  full  rate  (two  cents),  will  be  forwarded,  and  the 
deficient  postage  collected  upon  delivery ;  if  wholly  unprepaid, 
the  letter  will  be  held  and  the  addressee  notified  to  remit 
the  postage.  The  domestic  jrsite  for  first-class  matter  is  two 
cents  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof;  for  local  or  "drop" 
letters  in  post  offices  having  no  free  delivery,  one  cent  per 
ounce  or  fraction  thereof;  postal  cards,  one  cent;  double  or 
"reply"  cards,  two  cents. 

The  fee  for  Registration  of  a  letter  or  packet  is  ten 
cents;  and  all  classes  of  mail  matter,  except  fourth  class 
(parcel  post)  may  be  registered.  An  indemnity,  not  to  ex- 
ceed the  actual  value  of  the  piece,  will  be  paid  up  to  $50.00 
on  first-class  matter,  and  up  to  $25.00  on  third-class  mat- 
ter. The  fee  for  Special  Delivery  Service  is  ten  cents  in 
addition  to  the  regular  postage.  If  special  delivery  stamps 
are  unobtainable,  ordinary  stamps  to  the  amount  of  ten  cents 
will  entitle  the  sender  to  the  same  service,  provided  the  words 
"Special  Delivery"  are  written  below. 

Domestic  Money  Orders  are  issued  by  money  order  post 
offices  for  any  amount  up  to  $100.00,  at  the  following  rates : 

For  suras  not  exceeding  $2.50,  3c.;  over  $2.00  to  $5.00,  5c.;  over 
$5.00  to  $10.00,  8c. ;  over  $10.00  to  $20.00,  loc. ;  over  $20.00  to  $30.00,  12c. ; 
over  $30.00  to  $40.00,  15c.;  over  $40.00  to  $50.00,  i8c. ;  over  $50.00  to 
$60.00,  aoc.;  over  $60.00  to  $75.o<),  25c.;  over  $75.00  to  $100.00,  30c. 

Domestic  mail  rates,  as  given  above,  apply  also  to  mail 
for  Canada,  Mexico,  Cuba,  Tutuila,  Porto  Rico,  Guam, 
Hawaii,  the  Philippines,  the  "Canal  Zone,*'  the  Republic  of 
Panama,  and  Shanghai,  China ;  "also  to  mail  for  officers  or 
crew  of  U.  S.  Navy,  and  for  officers  and  men  of  U.  S.  Navy 
in  U.  S.  Naval  Hospital,  Yokohama,  Japan.  ^ 

Domestic  Parcel  Post.  For  the  purpose  of  fixing 
rates  for  domestic  parcel  post  service,  the  country  is  divided 
into  units  of  30  minutes  square.  These  units  form  the  basis 
of  the  eight  postal  zones,  which  are  measured  as  follows : 
1st  Zone,  50  miles;  2d  Zone,  50  to  156  miles;  3d  Zone,  150 
to  300  miles;  4th  Zone,  300  to  600  miles;  5th  Zone,  600  to 
1000  miles;  6th  Zone,  1000  to  1400  miles;  7th  Zone,  1400  to 
1800  miles;  8th  Zone,  all  over  1800  miles.  The  rates  are 
arranged  upon  a  sliding  scale:  thus,  within  the  first  zone,  or 
for  any  distance  of  50  miles  or  less,  the  charge  ranges  from 
5  cents  for  one-pound  parcel  to  54  cts.  for  50  pounds.  Within 
the  2d  zone,  or  for  distances  up  to  150  miles,  the  charge  for 
the  additional  hundred  miles  or  fraction  thereof  is  the  same  as 
the  charges  within  the  first  zone.    For  the  greater  distances 


POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICES,  ETC  47 

comprised  within  the  3d-8th  zones,  the  limit  of  weight  is  20 
pounds,  and  the  range  of  charges  for  each  zone,  respectively, 
are  as  f ollowS : 

3d  zone,  5c.  to  44c.;  4th  zone,  7c.  to  83c.;  5th  zone,  8c. 
to  $1.22;  6th  zone,  9c.  to  $1.61;  7th  zone,  iic.  to  $2.01;  8th 

zone,  I2c.  to  $2.40. 

Although  fourth  class  mail  cannot  be  registered,  it  may  be  insured 
against  loss  in  an  amount  equivalent  to  its  actual  value,  up  to  certain 
limits,  according  to  the  fee  paid:  up  to  $5-oo,  3  cts.;  up  to  $25.00,  5  cts.; 
up  to  $50.00,^10  cts.;  up  to  $100.00,  25  cts.  The  sender  must  fill  out 
an  insurance  tag,  to  be  attached  to  the  parcel.  The  collection  of  in- 
surance is,  however,  surrounded  by  the  Post  Office  Department  with 
so  much  red  tape  as  practically  to  nullify  this  provision. 

Stumped  envelopes.  In  addition  to  postage  stamps,  of  values 
ranging  from  i  ct.  to  $1.00,  the  U.  S.  Post  Office  furnishes  stamped 
envelopes  of  various  sizes  and  tints,  at  a  moderate  advance  upon  the 
value  of  the  postage. 

Foreign  Mails;  Postage  Rates.  The  rates  of  postage  to 
all  foreign  countries  and  colonies,  with  the  exceptions  noted 
below,  are:  for  letters,  first  ounce  or  less,  5  cents;  each  addi- 
tional ounce,  3  cents;  postal  cards,  each  2  cents;  newspapers 
and  other  printed  matter,  per  two  ounces,  i  cent.  Exceptions: 
British  Isles,  Canada,  Newfoundland,  Bahamas,  Barba- 
dos, British  Honduras,  Dutch  West  Indies,  and  Leeward- 
Islands,  to  all  of  which  the  rate  on  letters^  is  two  cents  for  each 
ounce  or  fraction  thereof.  On  other  classes  of  mail,  the 
Postal  Union  Rates  apply.  To  Germany,  letters  by  direct 
ocean  transportation  are  2  cents  per  ounce.  To  Canada, 
•  letters,  2  cents  per  ounce;  postal  cards,  i  cent;  newspapers, 
I  cent  for  each  4  ounces. 

The  rates  for  Foreign  (International)  Money  Orders  are:  ten  cents 
on  each  $10.00  or  fraction  thereof,  on  sums  from  i  cent  to  100.00;  for 
example,  any  sum  between  $50.01   and   $60.00  will  cost   60c. 

b.    Telegraph  and  Cable  Offices  and  Service 

The  telegraph  service  of  the  United  States  is  in  the  hands 
of  private  corporations,  of  which  the  Western  Union  Tele- 
graph Company  and  the  Postal  Telegraph  Cable  Company 
are  by  far  the  most  important.  The  Western  Union  has 
25,784  offices,  1,581,000  miles  of  wire,  and  26,768  miles  of 
ocean  cable.    Principal  New  York  Office,  195  Broadway. 

The  Western  Union's  charges  are  based  on  a  ten-word 
message,  the  date,  address  and  signature  of  the  sender  being 
sent  free  of  charge.  The  address  of  the  sender  involves  an 
extra  charge  if  he  wishes  it  to  be  included  in  the  tele- 
gram; he  may,  however,  leave  his  address,  without  extra 
charge  at  the  office  from  which  the  message  is  sent.  The 
cost  of  the  message  within  the  United  States  varies  accord- 


48  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ing  to  distance,  from  25  cts.  to  $1.00.  Messages  beyond  the 
border  lines  of  Canada  and  Mexico  naturally  involve  con- 
siderably higher  rates.  Messages  exceeding  'the  ten-word 
limit  are  subject  to  the  following  increased  charges : 

Each  additional  word  costs  2  cts.,  where  the  rate  is  25, 
30,  or  35  cts. ;  3  cts.  each,  where  the  rate  is  40  or  50  cts. ; 
4  cts.  where  rate  is  60  cts.;  5  cts.  where  rate  is  75  cts. ; 
7  cts.  where  rate  is  $1.00,  etc.  Day  Telegrams  are  trans- 
mitted immediately  upon  reception ;  Night  Telegrams  are  sent 
during  the  night  at  the  company's  convenience.  The  rates 
for  night  messages  are  in  most  cases  lower  than  the  day 
rate,  especially  for  longer  distances. 

Day  letters  of  50  words  or  less,  may  be  sent  for  one  and  a  half 
times  tne  price  of  a  ten-word  dav  message;  Night  Letters,  50  words  or 
less  for  the  price  of  a  ten-word  day  message.  "Night"  messages  are 
sent  during  the  night  at  the  convenience  of  the  company,  and  delivered 
early  the  next  morning. 

Money  may  also  De  transferred  by  telegraph  and-  cable 
from  any  telegraph  office  to  any  part  of  the  world.  The 
charges  for  money  transmittal  are  the  cost  of  the  telegram 
plus  a  reasonable  fee  (about  50  cents  per  $100)  varying  with 
ihe  amount  transmitted. 

^  The  foreign  tourist  must  remember  that  distances  are  great  in  the 
United  States,  and  that  this  in  part  explains  rates  which  may  otherwise 
seem  to  him  high.  The  following  are  a  few  sample  rates  between  New 
York  and  the  principal  cities  of  the  United  States  (ten-word  day  tele- 
gram):  Chicago,  50  cts.;  Washington,  D.  C,  30  cts.;  New  Orleans, 
60  cts.;  San  Francisco,  $1.00;  Salt  Lake  City,  75  cts.;  St.  Augustine, 
Fla.,  60  cts.;  Cleveland,  O.,  40  cts.;  Detroit,  50  cts.,  Seattle,  Wash., 
$1.00. 

Cable  rates  to  foreign  countries,  unlike  those  for  domestic 
messages,  are  calculated  at  so  much  per  word,  date,  address 
and  signature  all  being  counted.  Furthermore,  the  words  are 
limited  to  15  letters  each,  each  additional  fifteen  letters  or 
fraction  of  fifteen  being  charged  as  an  extra  word.  On  Jan.  i, 
1912,  a  reduced  rate  on  cable  messages  in  plain  language 
was  introduced,  and  is  now  in  effect  between  most  countries. 
The  tariff  is  in  general  about  one-half  the  usual  rate.  The 
Western  Union  also  has  two  other  recent  forms  of  cable 
service :  the  Cable  Letter  and  the  Week-end  Letter,  intended 
as  cable  equivalents  of  the  night  telegram.  Charges  vary  ac- 
cording to  distances;  between  New  York  City  and  London, 
they  are  respectively,  75  cts.  and  $1.15. 

The  following  are  the  rates  per  word  between  New  York  and  the 
principal  foreign  countries:  England,  France,  Belgium,  Holland,  Ger- 
many, as  cts.;  Switzerland,  30  cts.;  Italy,  31  cts.;  Denmark,  Norway, 
35  cts.;  Spain,  SVeden,  38  cts.;  Russia  (European),  43  cts.;  Turkey, 
45    cts.;    Argentina,    65    cts.;    Australia,    66    cts.;    China,    $1.22;    Japan, 


POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICES,  ETC.  49 

The  Postal  Telegraph-Cable  Company,  in  addition  to  its 

foreign  country  service,  also  does  extensive  business  in  the 

United  States,  having  over  400,000  miles  of  wire.    Its  general 

office  is  at  215  Broadway.    Its  rates,  both  for  cables  and  tele- 

g^ratns,  are  essentially  the  same  as  the  Western  Union*s. 

7he  Weston  Union  Tele^aph  Company  has  81  offices  in  Manhattan 
and  the  Bronx.  The  following;  have  been  selected  as  the  ones  most 
likely  to  be  within  accessible  reach:  Downtown  District,  ii  Broadway; 
m  Broadway;  Produce  Exchange;  60  Wall  St.;  100  William  St.; 
Mutual  Life  Building;  Tribune  Building;  306  Broadway,  346  Broadway. 
Central  District:  854  Broadway;  172  5th  Ave.;  11  W.  26th  St.;  26  W. 
31st  St.;  Grand  Central  Terminal;  125  E.  34th  St.;  621  Madison  Ave.;- 
23   "W.  44th  St.;   1398  Broadway;   1653  Broadway;    1916  Broadway. 

The  Postal  Telegraph-Cable  Company  has  76  offices,  among  others: 
45  Broadway;  Cotton  Exchange  Building;  20  Broad  St.;  35  Nassau  St.; 
145  E.  23d  St.;  8  W.  26th  St.;  49  W.  30th  St.;  416  4th  Ave.;  1397  Broad- 
yura-y;  8  £.  42d  St.;  1572  Broadway;  624  Madison  Ave. 

c.    Messenger  Service 

The  two  principal  organizations  for  messenger  service 
are  The  Postal  Telegraph-Cable  Company  and  The  American 
District  Telegraph  Company,  the  latter  with  headquarters  in 
the  Western  Union  Building.  The  American  District  Tele-* 
graph  Co.  was  originally  a  telegraph  company,  but  now 
carries  on  only  messenger  service.  The  messengers  are  re- 
ferred to  as  "A.D.T.  boys." 

This  company  now  has  92  branch  offices,  and  employs  over  11,000 
messenger  boys.  These  boys,  while  primarily  expected  to  carry  letters 
and  other  messages,  are  frequently  called  upon  to  perform  all  sorts 
of  other  services,  ranging  from  the  purchase  of  theatre  tickets  to  mind- 
ing an  office  during  luncheon  hour  or  taking  care  of  children  while  the 
mother  goes  to  market. 

Messengers  can  be  obtained  at  any  telegraph  office,  and 
many  offices,  hotels  and  public  buildings  have  electric  calls 
by  which  boys  can  be  summoned  from  the  nearest  station. 
The  charges  vary  according  to  distance  or  are  reckoned  at  a 
rate  of  30  cents  an  hour  plus  car  fare. 

d.    Express  Companies 

Express  companies  in  America,  it  may  be  said  for  the 
benefit  of  foreign  travelers,  are  private  corporations  estab- 
lished originally  and  primarily  for  the  safe  and  speedy  trans- 
portation of  merchandise  and  personal  effects. 

The  idea  orkfinated  in  1839  with  F.  W.  Harnden;  the  present 
Adams  Express  Company  began  in  1849  as  Adams  and  Company's  Cal- 
ifornia Express;  and  the  Wells  Fargo  Company  dates  from  1852.  The 
principal  express  companies  have  greatly  extended  their  original  scope; 
and  one  important  branch  of  their  modern  activities  is  the  issue  of 
Travelers'  Cheques,  which  are  acceptable  all  over  the  world,  wherever 
the  older  form  of  Letters  of  Credit  would  be  valid.     When  the  Parcel 


50  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Post  system  was  established  in  19 13  by  the  U.  S.  Postal  authorities, 
it  was  expected  that  this  new  competition  would  have  serious  effect  upon 
the  express  companies.  Instead,  by  forcing  them  to  adopt  lower  rates, 
it  has  worked  not  only  to  their  advantage,  but  to  that  of  the  public. 

The  tourist's  chief  interest  in  express  companies  is, 
naturally,  as  one  of  the  available  means  of  transporting  bag- 
gage (luggage).  The  speediest  way,  of  cours%,  is  for  the 
traveler  to  take  his  trunks  and  hand  baggage  with  him, 
"checking'*  them  (p.  2)  free  of  charge,  unless  there  is  excess 
weight.  An  economical  way  of  sending  extra  trunks  and 
boxes  long  distances  is  by  freight;  but  the  shipper  must 
transport  them  to  the  railway  or  steamer  to  which  he  con- 
signs them,  receiving  a  bill  of  lading  which  the  consignee 
must  present  when  claiming  and  removing  the  goods  (which 
may  have  been  days  or  even  weeks  in  transit).  The  method 
of  sending  by  express  often  offers  advantages  of  economy  and 
convenience.  Upon  notification,  the  company's  agent  calls 
at  the  residence,  giVes  a  receipt  for  the  articles  (on  which  the 
owner  may  set  a  value;  any  amount  over  $50.00  involving 
an  increase  in  the  express  charges,  to  cover  the  insurance), 
after  which  the  owner  need  concern  himself  no  further,  until 
his  property  is  delivered  in  the  house  and  room  of  its  des- 
tination. At  many  summer  resorts  the  extortionate  charges 
of  the  local  carriers  exceed  the  express  rates  for  the  wlmle 
distance.    The  three  largest  Express  Companies  are: 

The  Adams  (gGnGTal  and  executive  offices  53-61  Broadway;  branch 
offices  at  91  Maiden  Lane,  200  Chambers,  2  Reade,  137  Broadway,  300 
Canal,  n  Wooster,  151  Bowery,  493  Broadway,  324  Lafayette,  257 
Mercer,  29  7th  ave.,  19  E.  17th  st.,  22nd  and  sth  ave.,  154  W.  26th, 
Penn.  R.  R.  station  7th  ave.  and  32nd,  35  W.  33rd,  8  W.  45th,  242  W. 
47th,  Lexington  ave.  and  49th,  Amsterdam  ave.  and  77th,  3rd  ave.  and 
94th.  227  W.  1 06th  St.,  308  W.  124th,  etc.)  covering  in  general  the 
southern  states;  the  IV ells  Fargo  (General  and  Executive  Offices,  51 
Broadway,  branch  offices  at  311  Canal,  100  Warren,  128  Division,  60 
E.  Sth,  29  E.  14th,  613  6th  ave.,  209  E.  128th,  35  W.  3rd,  22  W.  15th, 
17  W.  23rd,  250  W.  26th,  501  5th  ave.,  313  W.  43rd,  257  W.  «>7th,  376 
Columbus  ave.,  45  W.  125th)  covering  in  general  the  Western  part  of 
the  country;  and  the  American  (General  Offices  at  65  Broadwav,  Execu- 
tive Offices  at  219  E.  42d  st.,' branch  offices  at  142  W.  Broadway,  105 
Bleecker,  Chatham  sq.  and  E.  Broadway,  ^02  Canal,  139  Spring,  Lafay- 
ette and  Astor  pi.,  73  5th  ave.,  922  Broadway,  14^4  Broadway,  Lexing> 
ton  ave.  and  44th,  ^85  -Madison  ave.,  247  W.  57th,  125 1  3rd  ave.,  316 
Amsterdam  ave.,  i  W.  125th,  9  W.  3ist,  134  W.  25th,  138th  and  Park 
ave.)  covering  in  general  New  York  State  and  the  northern  part  of 
the  countr>[.  In  many  sections  these  companies  overlap,  two  or  all 
three  covering  the  same  territory.      Since  the   new   express   rates  have 

5 one  into  operation  it  is  sometimes  cheaper  to  express  a  small  trunk 
irectly  to  its  destination  than  to  pay  local  expressage  and  transporta- 
tion en  route.  The  larger  hotels  have  arrangements  whereby  express 
parcels  can  be  sent  directly  from  the  hotel  without  the  sender's  calling 
at  the  express  office. 

The  chief  Local  Express  in  New  York  City  (and  in  many  other  of 
the    largest    cities    in    the    Eastern    United    States)    is    Westcott's    with 


POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICES,  ETC.  51 

representatives  at  every  station  in  Manhattan  (excepting  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Station,  where  the  official  express  company  is  the  New  York  Trans- 
fer Company)  and  at  the  New  York  side  of  the  ferries  (branch  offices 
at  nos.  149,  171,  399»  425,  429,  "83,  121 6,  ^278  Broadway,  316  Amster- 
dam  ave.,  18  Astor  place,  2030  5th  ave.,  i  W.  lasth  St.,  1869  Park  ave.). 
The  charge  for  transporting  a  trunk  or  suit-case  from  one  point  to 
another  in  the  city  is  40  cents  and  up,  according  to  the  distance. 

e.    Telephones 

The  New  York  Telephone  Company  which  ownjs  and 
operates  the  telephone  system  of  New  York  City  is  a  sub- 
sidiary of  the  American  Telephone  and  Telegraph  Company. 
Its  territory  includes  New  York  State  and  part  of  New  Jersey 
The  main  offices  of  the  Company  are  at  15  Dey  st 

The  general  public  is  invited  to  inspect  any  of  the  7Z 
Central  Offices  in  the  city.  Cards  of  admission  may  be  ob- 
tained at  any  one  of  the  Company's  25  Commercial  Offices, 
the  addresses  of  which  will  be  found  in  the  fore  part  of  the 
"Telephone  Directory." 

There  are  29,600  public  telephones  in  the  city,  each  one 
designated  by  some  form  of  the  "Blue  Bell"  sign.  Among 
these  public  telephones  there  is  a  large  number  of  coin  box 
telephones.  The  operation  of  these  instruments  is  simple,  and 
is  explained  on  a  card  set  into  each  instrument. 

The  rates  for  calls  to  most  toll  points  as  well  as  all 
other  information  concerning  the  use  of  the  telephone  are 
given  in  the  fore  part  of  the  "Telephone  Directory"  For  in- 
formation concerning  rates  which  do  not  appear  in  the  direc- 
tory inquire  of  "Central  Office  Information."  The  so-called 
•**Telephone  Red  Book,"  or  classified  business  directory,  will 
be  found  very  useful  to  the  tourist. 

New  York  has  550,000  telephones;  thus  exceeding  the  com- 
bined telephone  development  of  London,  Paris,  Berlin,  St.  Peters- 
burg and  Rome.  2,100,000  messages  are  sent  and  received  each  day. 
Every  business  day  loi  new  telephones  and  400  miles  of  new  wire 
are  added  to  the  system.  The  city's  first  telephone  line  was  erected 
July  25th,"  1877.  It  connected  81  John  st.,  Manhattan,  to  the  Wire 
Works  of  J.  L.  Haigh  in  South  Brooklyn.  The  method  of  calling  was 
to  tap  the  diaphragm  of  the  transmitter  with  a  pencil.  Boy  operators 
were  superseded  •  by  girl  operators  in  the  eighties.  The  first  common 
battery  switchboard  by  which  lifting  the  telephone  receiver  from  the 
hook  automatically  signals  the  operator  was  put  into  service  in  1898. 
This  necessitated  the  reconstruction  of  the  telephone  system. 

Thirty  years  ago  there  was  only  one  telephone  exchange  in  the 
city,  to-day  there  are  73.  The  Telephone  Company  now  employs  in 
New  York  City  nearly  14,000  persons,  about  6500  of  whom  are  opera- 
tors. In  the  Hudson  Terminal  Building  there  are  3000  telephones 
serving  their  10,000  occupants.  More  than  4,508,000  feet  of  wire  and 
cables  are  needed  for  these  telephones  over  which  11,124,000  calls  are 
sent  annually.  There  are  more  telephones  in  this  building  than  in 
Greece  and  Bulgaria. 

The  Private  Branch  Exchange  is  one  of  the  features  of  the  city's 
telephone  system.  The  first  switchboard  of  this  type  was  established  in 
1893.     There  are  17,000  Private  Branch  Exchanges  in  operation. 


52  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  Hotel  McAlpin  has  the  largest  hotel  Private  Branch  Exchange 
switchboard.  It  employs  its  own  wire  chief.  The  switchboard  has  1823 
extension  telephones.  The  yearly  number  of  outgoing  calls  is  600,000 
while  the  interior  traffic  is  between  900,000  and  1,000,000  calls  annually. 
Among  the  big  business  organizations  the  Consolidated  Gas  Com- 
pany has  one  of  the  largest  Private  Branch  Exchange  systems.  Its 
switchboard  binds  together  67  smaller  Private  Branch  Exchanges  in  its 
offices  and  in  other  parts  of  the  city.  The  annual  number  of  calls  from 
this  switchboard  approaches  the  4,000,000  mark.  The  Greenhut  Company 
has  the  largest  Department  Store  telephone  system.  Connected  to  its 
switchboard  are  467  extension  telephones.  Its  annual  traffic  is  about 
1,000,000  messages. 

New  York's  Long  Distance  telephone  system,  with  which  connection 
may  be  established  from  any  telephone  in  the  city  is  centered  in  the 
Walker-Lispenard  Building,  24  Walker  St.  There  are  315  Lon^  Dis- 
tance switchboards  and  test  boards  of  various  types  in  this  building. 
400  toll  lines  lead  direct  from  this  building  to  89  principal  cities.  47 
toll  lines  connect  Boston,  12  connect  Washington,  D.  C,  and  5  connect 
Chicago.  By  means  of  many  other  toll  lines  terminating  in  this  office, 
connection    may    be    established    with    any    point    in    the    Bell    system. 

The  daily  traffic  to  Chicago  is  165  calls.  The  traffic  between 
New  York  and  Philadelphia  amounts  to  4000  messages  a  day.  This 
is  handled  over  100  circuits  and  is  conducted  on  what  is  known  as 
a  "Two  Number"  basis.  So  rapid  is  the  New  YorJc-Philadelphia  Service 
that  60  seconds  after  a  New  York  subscriber  lifts  the  receiver  he  can 
talk  with  his  party  in  Philadelphia.  The  more  important  Long 
Distance  rates  are  giveji  in  the  fore  part  of  the  "Telephone 
Directory."  For  information  concerning  rates  for  other  Long 
Distance  points  inquire  of  "Central  Office  Information." 

The  Lighting  of  the  city  is  by  private  gas  and  electrical 
companies.  The  gas  companies  are  united  as  the  Consolidated 
Gas  Company  and  operated  in  1912,  24  gas  works  with  a 
manufacturing  capacity  of  924,700  thousand  cu.  ft.  in  24  hours. 
The  gas  goes  through  3,863  miles  of  mains.  The  street  gas 
lights  number  44,387.  Electricity  is  produced  by  several 
companies  who  operate  15  stations  with  a  generating  capacity 
of  346,242  kw.    The  electrical  street  lights  number  38,823. 

XI.    Theatres,  Music  Halls,  Other  Places  of 

Entertainment 

New  York  possesses  altogether  over  two  thousand 
theatres,  photoplay  houses  and  similar  places  of  amusement 
of  all  sorts  and  grades.  In  Manhattan  alone  there  are  upward 
of  fifty  theatres  of  importance,  including  a  few  high-class 
vaudeville  and  photo-play  houses.  A  few  of  the  old-time 
theatres,  once  highly  fashionable,  still  survive  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  14th  St. ;  and  a  few  modern  houses  are  to  be  found 
along  upper  Broadway  and  in  Harlem.  But  for  the  purposes 
of  the  transient  visitor,  the  theatre  life  of  New  York  is  com- 
prised within  the  fairly  narrow  area  of  Broadway  and  the  ad- 


THEATRES,  MUSIC  HALLS,  ETC.  53 

jacent  side  streets,  from  40th  to  50th  st. — a  stretch  popularly 
known  as  the  "Rialto,"  because  so  largely  frequented  by  mem- 
bers of  the  theatrical  profession. 

The  price  of  seats  in  the  best  theatres  is  fairly  uniform. 
The  best  seats  are  in  the  Orchestra  (ground  floor)  and  front 
rows  in  the  First  Balcony :  usually  $2.00 ;  other  balcony  seats, 
$1.50.  Proscenium  boxes,  usually  holding  six  persons,  $15.00 
to  $18.00.  Tickets  may  be  purchased  some  days  in  advance 
without  extra  charge.  It  is  not  unusual,  in  case  of  a  success- 
ful play,  for  the  entire  house  to  be  sold  out  for  two  or  more 
weeks  ahead.  Visitors  who  have  neglected  to  secure  tickets 
in  advance  at  the  box  office  may  usually  obtain  choice  seats 
up  to  almost  the  last  moment  from  any  of  the  reputable  ticket 
agents,  having  offices  in  most  of  the  leading  hotels,  and  charg- 
ing a  small  advance  upon  the  box  office  price. 

Performances  are  regularly  given  every  evening,  excepting 
Sundays;  also  Saturday  matinee.  Many  of  the  theatres  give 
an  additional  mid-week  matinee,  generally  on  Wednesday,  and 
often  at  somewhat  lower  prices.  The  hour  of  the  evening 
performance  varies  between  8  and  8:30  p.  m. ;  matinee  per- 
formance, between  2  and  2:30  p.  m.  A  majority  of  the 
theatres  are  closed  in  summer,  reopening  towards  the  end  of 
August. 

Contrary  to  the  usage  in  many  foreign  theatres,  there  is 
no  section  of  the  house  in  American  theatres  from  which 
women  are  excluded.  In  some  of  the  vaudeville  houses,  where 
smoking  is  permitted  in  the  balconies,  they  will  probably  find 
the  orchestra  seats  preferable,  but  there  is  no  rule  debarring 
them  from  the  upper  part  of  the  house. 

Programs,  for  which  (contrary  to  the  continental  cus- 
tom) no  charge  is  made  (except  in  the  Hippodrome),  are 
distributed  near  the  doorways  and  should  be  secured  upon 
entering. 

Dress.  Evening  clothes  for  men  are  not  obligatory  in 
the  New  York  theatres.  There  are,  however,  certain  conven- 
tions to  which  the  visitor  to  the  city  should  conform  if  he 
does  not  wish  to  feel  out  of  place^  Evening  clothes  are 
always  customary  at  the  opera,  excepting  in  the  upper  gal- 
leries; they  are  also  the  correct  usage  if  you  occupy  a  box 
at  any  of  the  leading  theatres ;  and  on  opening  nights,  in  the 
orchestra  or  first  balcony  seats.  The  tendency  toward  eve- 
ning dress  is  steadily  increasing,  and  a  stranger  may  always 
feel  that  he  is  on  the  safe  side  in  adopting  it  at  any  of  the 
first-class  theatres. 

For  women  the  problem  is  simpler.  At  the  opera  full 
dress  is  expected   (as  in  the  case  of  men).     But  ordinarily 


54  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

in  the  better  class  of  theatres  any  dinner  gown,  high  or  low 
cut,  is  considered  appropriate,  even  in  the  boxes. 

7.    MIDTOWN  DISTRICT. 

Most  of  the  theatres  are  in  this  district.  Foreign  language 
theatres  are  separately  listed. 

a.    Opera  and  Drama 

Metropolitan  Opera  House  (PI.  III-^Ci ;  p.  167),  occu- 
pying the  entire  block  bounded  by  Broadway  and  Seventh 
ave.,  39th  and  40th  sts.,  has  been  since  1883  the  home  of 
grand  opera  in  New  York. 

The  history  of  Italian  opera  in  America  dates  back  to 
November  29,  1825,  when  the  Marriage  of  Figaro  was  given 
at  the  old  Park  Theatre  in  Park  Row.  From  1847  onward. 
Castle  Garden  (p.  120)  was  for  several  years  New  York's 
musical  center,  and  there  Jenny  Lind  made  her  American 
debut  in  1850.  Four  years  later,  Castle  Garden  was  super- 
seded by  the  Academy  of  Music  (see  p.  218),  which  remained 
for  thirty  years  the  undisputed  home  of  opera  in  New  York. 
But  the  upward  trend  of  city  life  brought  about  an  imperative 
demand  for  a  new  opera  house  nearer  the  social  center.  The 
Metropolitan  Opera  House,  designed  by  Cleveland  Cady,  is  a 
structure  of  yellow  brick,  terra  cotta  and  iron  in  the  Italian 
Renaissance  order  of  architecture.  The  seating  capacity  is 
about  3000.  The  opening  performance  was  on  October  22, 
1883,  when  Faust  was  given,  with  a  caste  including  Nilsson, 
Scalchi  and  Campanini.  The  first  night  of  the  annual  sub- 
scription season  is  one  of  the  most  brilliant  functions  of 
New  York  social  life.  Nowhere  else  can  the  stranger  in  New 
York  see  such  a  gathering  of  the  foremost  representatives  of 
the  city's  wealth  and  fashion  as  on  any  of  llie  regular  sub- 
scription nights  at  the  Metropolitan  (Mondays,  Wednesdays 
and  Fridays).  A  list  of  the  subscribers  to  the  boxes  is  printed 
in  the  programs,  facilitating  identification. 

Prices  for  regular  subscription  performances:  Orchestra  and  or- 
chestra circle,  $6.00;  dress  circle  chairs,  ^3.00;  balcony  chairs,  first 
three  rows,  $2.50,  other  rows,  $2.00;  family  circle,  first  three  rows,  $1.50, 
other  rows  $i.oo;  grand  tier  boxes  (6  seats)  $60.00;  stall  boxes  (5 
seats)  $30.00;  (4  seats)  $25.00;  Sunday  night  concerts;  Orchestra  and 
Orchestra  circle,  $1.50;  dress  circle,  -$1.00;  balcony,  75c.;  family  circle, 
50c.;  boxes,  $12.00,  $10.00  and  $8.00. 

Knickerbocker  Theatre  (PL  III— Ci ;  p.  167),  at  the  N.E. 
corner  of  Broadway  and  38th  st.,  was  first  opened  as  Abbey's 
Theatre  in  November,  1893,  and  was  for  many  years  the 
chosen  house  of  such  eminent  foreign  stars  as  Henry  Irving 
and  Ellen  Terry,  Coquelin  and  Jane  Hading,  Beerbohm  Tree 


THEATRES,  MUSIC  HALLS,  ETC    "       *     55 

and  Sarah  Bernhardt.    In  1897  it  became  the  Knickerbocker, 

and  under  Mr.  Frohman's  managentent  continued  to  hold  its 

prestige  for  sorne  years  longer.    It  has  lately  been  given  over 

to  musical  comedy.    The  seating  capacity  is  about  1350. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c  and  50c;  boxes,  $18.00,  $15.00  and  $12.00. 

Casino  Theatre  (PI.  Ill — Ci ;  p.  167) ,  at  the  S.  E.  corner 
of  Broadway  and  39th  st. ;  an  ornate  red  brick  structure  in 
Moorish  style,  since  1882  the  home  of  operettas,  musical  come- 
dies, etc.    Seating  capacity,  1500. 

Orchestra  seats,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50,  $1.00;  2d  balcony,  75c 
and  50c.;  box  seats,  $3.00  and  $2.50. 

Thirty-ninth   Street  Theatre   (PI.  Ill — Ci),   119  W. 

39th  St.;  comedies,  farces,  etc.     Seating  capacity,  655. 

Evenings,  and  Saturdays  and  holiday  matinees:  orchestra  seats, 
$2.00;  balcony,  $2.00  and  $1.50;  family  circle,  $1.00  and  75c.;  boxes, 
$18.00.  Wednesday  matinee:  orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and 
$1.00:  family  circle,  75c.  and  500. 

Maxine  Elliott  Theatre  (PI.  Ill — Ci)  109  W.  39th 
St.,  constructed  of  Dover  marble,  with  a  low,  well  pro- 
portioned fagade  in  the  Louis  XVI  style,  from  designs  by 
Marshall  and  Fox,  Seating  capacity,  924.  Drama  and  com- 
edy. 

Orchestra  seats,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  family 
circle,  75c.  and  50c.  ^ 

Empire  Theatre  (PI.  IV — C4;  p.  i^)  at  the  S.  E.  corner 
of  Broadway  and  40th  St.,  (Frohman).  Seating  capacity, 
1127. 

Orchestra  seats,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second 
balcony,  75c.  and  50c.;  boxes,  $18.00  and  $15.00. 

Comedy  Theatre  (PI.  IV — C4),  no  W.  41st  st.,  (Wash- 
ington Square  Players).     Seating  capacity,  702. 

Orchestra  seats,  $2.00  and  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  family 
circle,  50c.;  Thursday  matinees:  Orchestra,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  balcony, 
1. 00  and   75c.;  family  circle,   50c. 

Republic  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B3;  p.  169),  209  West  42d 
street,  (Belasco).  Noticeable  fagade  of  brownstone,  blend- 
ing with  dark  gray  Powhattan  brick,  relieved  at  the  top  by 
a  row  of  Doric  columns.    Seating  capacity,  1000. 

Evenings  and  Saturday  and  holiday  matinees:  Orchestra,  $2.00; 
balcony.  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  75c.  and  soc;  lower 
boxes,  $18.00;  upper  boxes,  $15.00;  second  balcony  boxes  (four  seats), 
$8.00;  loge  seats,  $2.50.  Wednesday  matinee:  orchestra,  $1.50;  bal- 
cony, $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  50c.;  lower  boxes,  $15.00;  upper 
boxes,  $12.00;  second  balcony  boxes,  $4.00;   loge  seats,  $2.00. 

Lyric  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B3;  p.  169),  213  W.  42d  st., 
(Shubert).    Seating  capacity,  1472. 

Erenings  and  Saturday  and  Holiday  matinees:  Orchestra.  $2.00; 
balcony,  $2.00,  ^1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  $1.00,  75c.  and  50c.; 
Wednesday  matinee:  orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.00;  second  bal- 
cony, 50c. 


56     *  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

New  Amsterdam  Theatre  (PI.  IV— B3;  p.  168),  214  W. 
42d  street,   (Klaw  and  Erlanger).    Seating  capacity,  1700. 

■    Orchestra,  $2.00;   balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
7SC.  and  soc;  boxes,  $18.00  and  $15.00;  loges,  $10.00. 

C.  &  H.  Theatre  (PI.  IV— B3;  p.  169),  226  W.  42d  st. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00;  boxes,  $18.00. 

Liberty  Theatre  (PI.  IV— B3;  p.  169),  234  W.  42d  st., 
(Klaw  and  Erlanger).    Seating  capacity,  120G. 

Evenings  and  Saturday  matinees:  Orchestra,  $2.00  and  $1.00;  bal- 
cony, $2.00,  $1.00  and  75c.;  second  balcony,  50c.  and  25c.  Wednesday 
matinees:  orchestra,  $1.00  and  50c.;  balcony,  $1.00  and  50c.;  second 
balcony  25c. 

Eltinge  Theatre  (PL  IV— B3;'  p.  169),  236  W.  42d  st. 
Seating  <:apacity,  898. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
$r.oo,  75c.  and  50c.     Boxes,  $18.00  and  $15.00;  general  admission,  $z.oo. 

Harris  Theatre  (PI.  IV— B3;  p.  169),  254  W.  42d  st. 
Seating  capacity,  770. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $150  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c.  and  50C.;   box  seats,   $3.00. 

CoH ant's  Theatre  (PL  IV — C3;  p.  170),  1480  Broadway, 

at  the  corner  of  43d  st. 

Evenings  and  Saturday  matinees:  Orchestra.  $2.00;  first  balcony, 
$a.oo,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  75c.  and  50c.;  boxes,  $18.00, 
$15.00  and  $12.00.  Wednesday  matinee:  orchestra  seats,  $1.50;  other 
prices  unchanged. 

Criterion  Theatre  (PL  IV — C3),  at  the  N.  E.  corner 
of  Broadway  and  44th  st.  This  theatre  was  for  a  time  a  mo- 
tion picture  house,  the  Vitagraph  Theatre.  Now  a  high  class 
playhouse. 

Evening  and  Saturday  Matinees:  Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00, 
$1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  75  and  5oc.^  boxes,  $10.00,  $15.00 
and  $18.00.  Wednesday  matinees:  orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and 
$1.00;  second  balcony,  75  and  50c.;  boxes,  $10.00,  $12.00  and  $15.00. 

Forty-fourth  Street  Theatre  (PL  IV — B3),  216  W. 
44th  St.     Seating  capacity.  1540. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  first  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50,  and  $1.00;  second 
balcony,  75c.  and  50c;  lower  boxes,  $15.00;  upper  boxes,  $8.00. 

Shubert  Theatre  (PL  IV— B3),  225  West  44th  st.  The 
seating  capacity  is  1510. 

-Evenings  and  Saturday  and  holiday  matinees:  Orchestra,  $2.00; 
balcony,  |2.oo,  $1.50  and  $i.oo;  family  circle,  75c.  and  soc;  boxes, 
^18.00.  Wednesday  matinee:  orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and 
$1.00;   family  circle   75c.   and   50c.;    boxes,   $15.00. 

Little  Theatre  (PL  IV— B3),  238  W.  44th  st.,  an 
attractive  example  of  the  modern  type  of  playhouse.  The 
style  is  Georgian,  the  materials  are  red  brick  and  French 
limestone,  the  outside  woodwork  is  painted  white  and  the 
shutters  a  dark  green,  giving  the  structure  a  quaint  and  old 
fashioned  aspect.    Seating  capacity,  299. 

All   scats    (orchestra   chairs   only)    $2.00. 


THEATRES,  MUSIC  HALLS,  ETC.  57 

Hudson  Theatre  (PI.  IV— C3),  I39  W.  44th  st.  Seat- 
ing  capacity,   1 100. 

Orchestra  seats,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $i.qo;  boxes. 
$x8.oo  and  $15.00. 

Belasco  Theatre  (PI.  IV— C3),  115  W.  44th  st.,  (David 

Belasco,    manager),    noted    for    careful    stage    production. 

Drama  and  comedy. 

Orchestra  seats,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  boxes,  $18.00, 
$15.00  and  $10.00. 

AsTOR  Theatre  (PL  IV — B2;  p.  171),  at  the  N.  W.  corner 
of  Broadway  and  45th  street.  (Cohan  and  Harris).  Seat- 
ing capacity,  1133. 

Orchestra  $2.00;  first  balcony,  $2.00  and  $1.50;  second  balcony, 
$1.00  and  75c.;  box  seats,  $3.00,  $2.50  and  $2.00.  Tuesday  matinee: 
first  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  75c.  and  50c.; 
other  prices  unchanged. 

Lyceum  Theatre  (PI.  IV — C2;  p.  171),  149  W.  45th  St., 

(Frohman).    Seating  capacity,  953.  * 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50,  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c  and  50c.;   boxes,  $18.00  and  $15.00. 

Booth  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B3;  p.  171),  22  W.  45th  st., 
another  of  the  beautiful  modern  playhouses  due  to  the 
architectural  skill  of  Henry  B.  Herts.  It  forms  externally 
a  single  structure  with  the  Shubert  Theatre  which  adjoins  it 
in  the  rear.  An  interesting  feature  is  the  lavish  use  of 
sgraffito  in  the  decoration  of  the  fagades.  (Winthrop  Ames, 
director). 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony^  $z>5o,  $1.00,  75c.  and  50c.;  boxes,  $15.00 
and  $10.00.  Wednesday  matinee:  balcony  seats,  $1.00  and  50c.;  other 
prices  unchanged. 

Globe  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B2;  p.  172),  46th  st.  and  Broad- 
way.   Seating  capacity,    iioo. 

Monday  to  Friday  inclusive:  Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00  and 
$1.50;  second  balcony,  $1.00;  boxes,  $20.00.  Saturday:  Orchestra, 
$2.50;  balcony,  $2.50  and.  $2.00;   second  balcony,   $1.00;   boxes,  $25.00. 

Gaiety  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B2;  p.  172),  at  the  S.  W.  cor- 
ner of  Broadway  and  46th  st.  (Klaw  and  Erlanger).  Seat- 
ing capacity,  800. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00;  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c.  and   soc. ;   boxes,   $20.00;   loges,   $10.00. 

Fulton  Theatre  (PI.  IV— B2),  206  W.  46th  st.  Seat- 
ing capacity,  906. 

Evenings,  Saturday  and  holiday  matinees:  Orchestra,  $2.00;  bal- 
cony, $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00 ;  dress  circle,  75c.  and  50c.  Wednesday 
matinee:  orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  dress  circle,  75c. 
and  50c. 

LoNGACRE  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B2;  p.  172),  at  the  corner 
of  Broadway  and  48th  st.     Seating  capacity,  1005. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balconV,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c.  and  50c.;  boxes,  $18.00  and  $15.00.  Popular  matinee,  Wednesday: 
orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  75c.  and  50c.; 
boxes,  $15.00  and  $12.00. 


58  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Forty-eighth    Street   Theatre    (PI.   IV— C2;   p.    172), 

157  W.  48th  St.     Seating  capacity  957. 

.Orchestra,  fs.oo;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c. 'and  soc;  boxes,  $15.00. 

Playhouse,  The  (PI.  IV— C2;  p.  172),  i37  W.  48th 
street.    Seating  capacity,  879. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  Ji.oo;  second  balcony, 
75c.  and  soc;  boxes,  $15.00  and  $12.00.  Wednesday  matinee:  orchestra, 
$1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  batcony,  75c.  and  50c. 

CoRT  Theatre  (PI.  IV— C2;  p.  173),  136  W.  43th  st. 
Seating  capacity,  1000. 

Orchestra,  $2.00;  balcony,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony, 
75c.  and  50c.;  box  seats,  $3.00  and  $2.50.  Wednesday  matinee:  or- 
chestra, $1.50;  balcony,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  second  balcony,  75c.  and  soc; 
box  seats.  $2.50  and  $2.00. 

Punch  and  Judy  Theatre,  49th  st,  E.  of  7th  ave.  Seat- 
ing capacity,  299. 

Orchestra,  $2.00,  ^1.50  and  $1.00;   box  seats,  $2.50. 

Park  Theatre,  Columbus  Circle  and  59th  st.     Seating 

capacity,  1400. 

Evenings,  Saturday  and  holiday  matinees:  Orchestra,  $2.00;  bal- 
cony, $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00:  family  circle,  75c  and  50c;  boxes,  $18.00 
and  $15.00;  leges  (holding  tour  persons)  $12.00.  Wednesday  matinee, 
trom  25c  to  $1.00. 

Century  Theatre  (PI.  V— B6),  Central  Park  West 
and  62d  st.     Seating  capacity,  2050. 

One  of  the  most  interesting,  architecturally,  of  the 
new  type  of  theatres.  Its  general  character  is  Venetian 
Renaissance,  with  modern  adaptations.  Since  the  building 
laws  forbid  any  projection  beyond  the  building  VintSy sgraffito 
has  been  extensively  used.  Note  especially  the  oval  panel 
within  the  broken  pediment  above  the  entrance  doorway,  and 
Che  panels  on  the  facade  of  the  upper  story,  m  iignt  gray  oii 
a  background  of  purple  gray.  The  interior  is  also  narmom- 
jus,  the  decorations  being  in  old  Venetian  gold,  witn  pami- 
ings  in  which  absinthe,  gold  and  amethyst  predominate. 

Orchestra,  $3.00  and  $2.00;  foyer,  $1.00;  tirst  balcony,  50c.;  secuim 
balcony,  25c  and  loc. 

.  b.    Vaudeville,  Burlesque,  Photoplays,  etc. 

American  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B3),  at  the  corner  of  8th 
avenue  and  42d  street.  (Marcus  Loew.)  Vaudeville  and 
Photoplays. 

Box  seats,  soc.  and  35c;  orchestra  and  first  balcony,  25c.;  second 
balcony,   15  c.  and   loc. 

American  Music  Hall,  at  the  corner  of  8th  ave  and 
42d  St.,  on  the  roof  of  the  American  Theatre  (Marcus  Loew). 

soc,  35c.  and  asc. 

Columbia  Theatre  (PI.  IV — C2;  p.  172),  at  the  corner  of 
Seventh  avenue  and  47th  street.  Burlesque.  Seating  caps^^ 
city,    1300. 


THEATRES,  MUSIC  HALLS,  ETC.  59 

Evenings  and  holiday  matinees:  Box  seats,  $1.50;  orchestra,  $1.00: 
balcony,  75c.  and  50c.  Saturday  matinee:  box  seats,  $1.00;  orchestra, 
$x.oo,  75c.  and  50c.;  balcony,  50c.  Other  matinees:  box  seats,  $1.00; 
orchestra,  50c.;  balcony,  25c. 

Hippodrome  (PI.  IV — D3;  p.  229),  occupying  the  block 
on  the  east  side  of  6th  ave.,  between  43d  and  44th  sts. 
Famous  for  many  years  for  its  colossal  and  unique  spec- 
tacular effects,  ballets  and  tableaus.  Its  special  feature  is 
a  huge  water  tank  in  front  of  the  stage  and  extending  almost 
its  full  breadth.  This  tank  makes  possible  a  great  variety 
of  most  unusual  aquatic  feats  that  have  formed  one  of  this 
theatre's  chief  attractions.     Seating  capacity,  5200. 

Evenings:  Orchestra,  $1.50;  first  balcony,  $1.50,  $1.00,  75c.;  second 
balcony,  50c.,  250.  Saturdays  and  holdays:  orchestra,  $2.00;  other 
prices  unchanged.  Matinees:  orchestra,  $1.00;  first  balcony,  $1.00, 
75c.;  second  balcony,  50c.,  25c.  Saturday  and  holidays  matinees: 
orchestra  and   first  rows  balcony,   $1.50;   other  prices   unchanged. 

LoEw's  New  York  Theatre  (PI.  IV — C3),  at  the  S.  E. 
corner  of  Broadway  and  45th  street.  "The  World's  Best 
Photo-Plays." 

Evenings:     10,   15  and  25c.;  matinees,  10  and  15c. 

Keith's  Palace  Theatre   (PI.  IV — C2),  Broadway  and 

47th  St.     "Supreme  Vaudeville." 

Evenings  (except  Saturday,  Sunday  and  holidays):  Orchestra,  $1.50 
and  $1.00;  balcony,  75c.  and  50c.;  second  balcony,  25c.:  loge  seats, 
$1.00;  box  seats,  $1.50.  Matinees  (except  Saturday,  Sunday  and  holi- 
days) :  orchestra,  75c.  and  50c. ;  balcony,  50c. ;  second  balcony,  250. ; 
loge  seats,  75c.;  box  seats,  $1.00.  Saturday,  Sunday  and  holidays: 
orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.00,  75c.  and  soc;  second  balcony,  25c.; 
loge  seats,  $1.50;  box  seats,  $2.00. 

Strand  Theatre  (PI.  IV — B2;  p.  172)  N.  W.  corner  of 

Broadway  and  47th  street.    Photoplays  and  Special  Features. 

Seating  capacity,  2750. 

Evenings  and  Saturday,  Sunday  and  holiday  matinees:  Loge  and 
box  seats,  50c.;  orchestra,  50c.  and  25c.;  balcony,  15c.  Other  matinees: 
loge  and  box  seats,  50c.;  orchestra,  25c.;  balcony,  Z5c.  and  loc. 

Winter  Garden  (PI.  IV — Bi;  p.  173),  at  Broadway  and 
50th  st.  "Devoted  to  the  Continental  idea  of  Music  Hall  and 
v/'ariete."  Smoking  is  permitted  and  refreshments  are  served. 
Seating  capacity,  2000. 

Evening  prices:  50c.,  $1.00,  $1.50,  $2.00  and  $2.50;  box  seats, 
$3.00.  Saturday  evening,  no  50  cent  seats.  Matinees  Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day and  Saturday:  50c.,  75c.,  $1.00  and  $1.50;  box  seats,  $1.50.  Sunday 
concerts,   50c.,   75c.,  $1.00,  $1.50  and  $2.00;   box  seats,  $2.00. 

Rialto  (PI.  IV— B2),  at  the  N.  W.  corner  of  7th  ave. 
and  42d  st.  One  of  the  most  recent  and  attractive  high  grade 
photoplay  houses.  Partly  remodeled  from  Hammerstein's 
Victoria  theatre. 

Evenings:  Orchestra,  soc;  balcony,  25c.;  loges,  50c.  Matinees: 
orchestra,  25c.;  balcony,   isc;   loges,  soc. 


6o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

//.    UPTOWN  DISTRICT 
a.     Drama,  Vaudeville  and  Burlesque 

LoEw's  LiNCX)LN  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  66th  street 
Vaudeville  and  Photoplays;  lo,  15  and  25  c. 

Eighty-first  Street  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  81  st 
street.    Vaudeville;  10,  15  and  25  c. 

Standard  Theatre,  Broadway  and  90th  street.  Drama, 
comic  opera,  etc. 

Evenings:  box  seats,  ^1.50;  orchestra,  $1.00;  balcony,  75,  50,  25c. 
Saturday  and  holiday  matinees:  box  seats,  $z.oo;  orchestra,  75c.;  bal- 
cony, 50c.,  25c.  Tuesday  and  Thursday  matinees:  box  seats,  $1.00; 
orchestra,   50c.;   balcony,   25c. 

Riverside  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  96th  street.  Vaude- 
ville and  Photoplay. 

Evenings:  Box  seats,  50c.;  orchestra,  25c.;  balcony,  15c.  Matinees: 
box  seats,  25c.;   orchestra,   15c.;   balcony,   loc. 

Riviera  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  97th  street.  Vaude- 
ville and   Photoplays. 

Evenings:  Box  seats,  50c.;  orchestra,  25c.;  balcony,  xsc.  Mat- 
inees:    box   seats,   25c.;    orchestra,    15c.;    balcony,    loc. 

Nemo  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  iioth  street.  Vaude- 
ville and  Photoplay. 

10,  15  and  25c.  ^ 

Hamilton  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  146th  street. 
Vaudeville  and  Photoplay. 

10  to  25c. 

Audubon  Theatre,  at  Broadway  and  165th  street.  Vaude- 
ville and  Photoplay. 

Evenings:  Box  and.  loge  seats,  50c.;  orchestra,  25c.;  balcony,  15c. 
and  25c.  Matinees:  box  and  loge  seats,  25c.;  orchestra,  loc.  and  15c.; 
balcony,  loc. 

Wads  WORTH  Theatre,  Wads  worth  avenue  and  i8ist 
street.    Vaudeville  and  Photoplay. 

Evenings:  Box  seats,  soc.  and  75c.;  orchestra,  50c.  and  35c.;  bal- 
cony, 50,  35  and  2Sc.  Matinees  (Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday): 
box  seats,  35c.;   orchestra,  25c.;  balcony,   15c. 

Keith's    Harlem    Opera    House,   205    W.    125th    street. 

Vaudeville. 

Popular  prices. 

Keith's    Alhambra,    at    7th    avenue    and    126th    street. 

Vaudeville  and  photoplays. 

Evenings:  Box  seats,  $1.00;  orchestra,  75c.  and  50c.;  balcony,  50c. 
Matinees:     oox   seats,    50c.;    orchestra  and   balcony,  25c. 

LoEw's  Seventh  Avenue  Theatre,  at  7th  avenue  and 
124th  street.     Vaudeville  and  photoplays. 

Evenings:  Box  seats,  3Sc.;  orchestra  and  balcony,  35c.;  second 
balcony,  15c.  and  loc.     Matinees:    box  seats,  25c.     All  other  seats,  loc. 


THEATRES,  MUSIC  HALLS,  ETC.  6i 

Proctor's    One    Hundred    and    Twenty-fifth    Street 
Theatre,   Lexin^on   avenue   and    125th    street.     Vaudeville. 
Evenings:     10  to  15c.     Matinees:    5,  10  and  15c. 

HURTIG     AND     SeAMON's     NEW     ThEATRE,     253     W.     I25th 

Street.     Vaudeville  and  burlesque. 

Evenings:  Box  seats,  |x.oo;  orchestra,  75c.  and  50c.;  balcony,  soc. 
and  25c.  Mstinees:  box  seats,  50c.;  orchestra,  50c.  and  25c.;  balcony,  25c. 

LoEw's  West  End  Theatre,  368  W.  125th  street.  Drama 
vaudeville,  photoplays.     (Temporarily  closed). 

Regent  Theatre,  S.  W.  corner  of  7th  avenue  and  Ii6th 
street.     Vaudeville  and  photoplays. 

Evenings:    10,  15  and  25c.     Matinees:     loc. 

One  Hundred  and  Sixteenth  Street  Theatre,  ii6th 
street  east  of  7th  avenue.     Vaudeville. 

Evenings:     10,  15  and  2Sc.     Matinees:     loc.         ♦ 

b.     Photoplay 

Schuyler  Theatre,  Broadway  and  82d  street. — Adelphi 
Theatre,  Broadway  and  89th  street. — Riverview  Theatre, 
Broadway,  near  93d  street. — Broadway  Photoplay  Theatre, 
Broadway  and  103d  street. — Olympic  Theatre,  Broadway 
and  107th  street. — Bunny  Theatre,  Broadway,  near  147th 
street. — Washington  Theatre,  Amsterdam  avenue  and  149th 
street. — Costello  Theatre,  159th  street,  near  Broadway. — 
Heights  Theatre,  Wads  worth  avenue,  near  i8ist  street. — 
Palace  Theatre,  St.  Nicholas  avenue  and  176th  street. — 
Classic  Theatre,  181  st  street,  near  Broadway. 

The  majority  of  these  are  comfortable,  modern  and  at- 
tractive playhouses,  constructed  with  special  regard  to  the 
needs  of  the  motion  picture,  and  the  prices  are  an  almost 
uniform  rate  of  10  and  15  cents. 

Foreign  Theatres 

There  are,  on  the  lower  East  Side,  a  number  of  theatres 
in  which  plays  are  given  in  various  foreign  languages.  The 
German  stock  company  at  the  Irving  Place  Theatre  has  for 
many  years  enjoyed  a  high  repute  for  the  excellent  standard 
of  acting  it  has  maintained.  There  are  several  Italian  thea- 
tres, where  for  the  most  part  cheap  variety  shows  prevail, 
although  at  times  Italian  opera,  of  a  kind,  may  be  heard  at 
prices  ranging  from  25  cts.  to  $1.00.  The  Yiddish  theatres 
are  probably  the  most  interesting  of  all  the  foreign  houses. 
Many  of  the  plays  produced  are  the  work  of  a  modern  school 


62  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

of  Russian  Jews,  of  much  originality  and  sombre  realism. 
The  visitor  who  devotes  an  evening  to  one  of  these  theatres 
will  come  away  feeling  that  he  has  at  least  had  a  unique 
experience.  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^^ 

Irving  Place  Theatre,  cor.  15th  st.  and  Irving  pi. 

Orchestra,  $1.50;  balcony,  $1.00;  second  balcony,  50  and  35  cts. 

Italian   Theatres 
AciERNo's  Italian  Theatre,  46-48  Bowery. 

Prices  vary  according  to  the  nature  of  the  program.  Grand  opera: 
from  25  cents  to  $1.00.  Dramas,  sketches,  farces,  vaudeville,  etc.:  5, 
10,  15  and  25  cents. 

Maiori's  Royal  Theatre,  235  Bowery,  Vaudeville  and 
Photo  Plays.     (5,  10,  15c.;  Sundays:  10,  15,  25c.) 

Teatro  Italiano  di  Varieta,  237  Bowery.  Vaudeville. 
(5,  10,  15c.;  Sundays:  10,  15,  20c.) 

Yiddish  Theatres 

Jacob  Adler's  People's  Theatre,  201  Bowery.  Drama 
and  comedy. 

Evenings:  box  seats,  $2.00  and  $1.50;  orchestra,  $1.00,  75  and  50c.; 
first  balcony,  $1.00,  75  and  50c.;  second  balcony,  50  and  35c.  Matinees: 
box  seats,  $1.00,  7sc.;  orchestra  and  balcony,  75,  50,  3sc.;  second  bal- 
cony, 35,  25c. 

David  Kessler's  Second  Avenue  Theatre,  S.  W.  corner 
of  Second  avenue  and  Second  street. 

Evenings:  box  seats,  $2.00  and  $1.50;  orchestra,  $1.00,  75,  Soc. ; 
first  balcony,  $1.00,  75,  50c.;  second  balcony,  50c.  Matinees:  box  seats, 
$1.00  and  75c.;  orchestra,  $1.00,  75,  50,  3sc.;  first  balcony,  75,  50,  350.; 
second  balcony,  35,  25c. 

Boris  Thomashevsky's  Theatre,  Second  avenue  and 
Houston  street.     (Popular  prices:   50,  30,  20,   10  cents.) 

XII.    Concerts,  Art  Exhibitions^  etc. 
a.    Concert  Halls 

In  contrast  with  its  multitude  of  theatres,  New  York 
shows  a  curious  lack  of  high-class  concert  halls.  In  fact, 
the  only  prominent  ones  are  Carnegie  Hall  and  Aeolian  Hall. 
This  may  be  partly  explained  by  the  fact  that  several  of  the 
large  musical  societies,  such  as  the  Arion  Society,  etc.,  have 
their  own  auditoriums;  while  on  the  other  hand,  the  Metro- 
politan Opera  House  and  the  various  theatres  are  often 
available  for  concert  purposes. 

The  principal  societies  giving  annual  series  of  symphony 
concerts  in  New  York  are:  the  Oratorio  Society,  the  Phil- 
harmonic Society  of  New  York;  the  Symphony  Society  of 
New  York,  and  the  Russian  Symphony  Society. 


THEATRES,  MUSIC  HALLS,  ETC.  63 

Aeolian  Hall  (PI.  IV— D3;  p.  229),  29  W.  42d  street. 

Symphony  and   other  concerts,  piano   recitals,   lectures,   etc. 
The  prices  vary  according  to  the  nature  of  the  entertainment. 

Carnegie  Hall    (PL    I — ^Ba;   p.    108),   in   the  Carnegie 

Building,  57th  street  and  7th  avenue.     Concerts,  recitals,  etc. 

Seating  capacity,  2800. 

Prices  depend  upon  the  nature  of  the  production. 

Carnegie  Lyceum^  also  in  the  Carnegie  Building.  Seat- 
ing capacity,  627. 

There  arc  also  Concert  rooms,  auditoriums,  etc.,  in  the 
Waldorf-Astoria,  the  Biltmore  and  other  leading  hotels, 
where  occasional  performances  are  given,  often  for  charitable 
purposes. 

Free  Concerts.  Much  really  good  music  may  be  enjoyed 
by  the  public  in  New  York,  free  of  cost.  During  the  winter 
season,  Wanamaker's  Department  Store  gives  in  its  audi- 
torium a  regular  series  of  concerts,  for  which  no  admission 
is  charged.  For  a  number  of  years,  the  Aeolian  Company 
has  also  given  free  concerts,  as  a  means  of  demonstrating 
their  instruments.  Many  of  the  leading  churches  give  special 
musical  services  on  Sunday  afternoons  or  evenings,  an- 
nouncement of  which  may  be  found  in  the  newspapers. 

During  the  summer  season,  there  are  numerous  public 

band  concerts  given  under  the  direction  of  the  Department 

of  Parks.    The  frequency  of  these  concerts,  the  time  of  day, 

and  the  list  of  parks  included  vary  from  season  to  season; 

but  the  following  list  is  fairly  comprehensive : 

I.  (Manhattan)  Abington  Sq.,  Battery,  Bryant,  Central,  De  Witt 
Clinton,  Hamilton  Fish  and  Hudson  Pks.;  Madison  Sq.;  Mt.  Morris 
and  Miorningside  Pks.;  Tompkins  and  Washington  Sqs.;  Wm.  H. 
Seward  Pk.;  2.  (Bronx)  Bronx,  Crotona,  Claremont,  Franz  Sigel,  St. 
Jpmes,  St.  Mary's  and  McComb's  Dam;  3.  (Brooklyn)  Bushwick,  City, 
Ft.  Greene,  'Highland,  Lincoln  Terrace,  Prospect  and  Red  Hook  Pks. ; 
Saratoga  Sq.;  Sunset  and  Winthrop  Pks.;  4  (Queens)  Forest,  High- 
land, K.ings,  Kissena,  Linden  and  Rainey  Pks.;  5.  (Richmond)  Port 
Richmond,  Washington  Sq.  and  Westerleigh  Pks. 

b.    Art  Exhibitions 

Permanent  Art  Exhibitions:  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art 
(PI.  V— C4;  p..305)»  Fifth  ave.  and  Sad  st.     Open  week-days,  10  a.  m. 


Gallery  (Lenox,  Astor  and  Stuart  Collections:  Paintings  and  Objects 
of  Art),  open,  free,  daily,  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.;  Sundays,  i  to  5  p.  m., 
except  the  Stuart  Room.  New  York  Historical  Society  (p.  344), 
Central  Pk.  W.,  betw.  76th  and  77th  Sts.:  Art  Gallery  (Paintings, 
Prints  and  Egyptian  Antiquities),  open,  free,  daily,  from  9  a.  m.  to 
5     p.      m.,      except      Sundays     and      holidays.        Brooklyn     Museum 


64  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

(p.  424),  Eastern  Parkway  and  Washington  ave.  (Paintings, 
Sculpture,  Antiquities,  etc.),  open  week-days,  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.; 
Sundays,  2  to  6  p.  m.;  Thursday  evenings.  7.30  to  9.45.  Admission, 
Mondays  and  Tuesdays;  adults,  25  c,  children  under  16,  10  c.  City 
Hall  Art  Collection  (p.  142),  City  Hall  Park,  Manhattan.  (Por- 
traits of  former  Mayors,  etc.).  Open,  free,  week-days,  during  busi- 
ness hours.  Borough  Hall  Art  Collection  (p.  403).  Borough  Hall- 
Park,  Brooklyn.  (Portraits  of  former  Mayors,  etc.).  Open,  free, 
daily,  during  business  hours.  Hispanic  Society  of  America  (p.  348), 
Broadway  and  156th  St.  (Paintings,  Sculptures,  Wood-carving  and 
other  works  of  Spanish  Art.)  Open^  free,  daily  and  Sundays,  10  a.  m. 
to  s  p.  m.,  except  August.  American  Numismatic  Society  (p.  3So), 
Broadway  and  156th  St.  (Coins  and  Medals.)  Open,  free,  10  a.  m. 
to  5  p.  m.  daily;  Sundays,  i  to  5  p.  m.  Cooper  Union  Museum  of 
Arts  of  Decoration  (p.  154),  in  Cooper  Union,  Fourth  ave.  and  8th 
St.  Open,  free,  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Mondays,  9  a.  m.  to  5 
p.  m.,  and  6.30  to  9  p.  m. ;  closed  July  i  to  September  15.  Bronx 
Society  of  Arts  and  Sciences  (p.  381),  Lorillard  Mansion,  Bronx 
Park.  Open,  free,  daily,  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Staten  Island  Associa- 
tion of  Arts  and  Sciences  (p.  450),  154  Stuyvesant  pi..  New 
Brighton,  S.  I.  Open,  free,  daily,  except  Sundays,  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 
Barnard  Cloisters,  Fort  Washington  Ave,,  above  i8ist  St.  Private 
collection  of  the  sculptor,  George  Grey  Barnard  (Antiquities  and 
French  Objects  of  Art.)  Admission,  week-days,  $2.00;  Sundays, 
$1.00. 

Periodic  Exhibitions  by  Leading  Fine  Arts  Societies  of  New 
York:  National  Academy  of  Design  (p.  242),  Amsterdam  ave.  and 
109th  St.  Permanent  Gallery  of  portraits  of  artists,  etc.  Two  annual 
exhibitions,  spring  and  fall,  in  the  American  Fine  Arts  Building, 
215  W.  S7th  St.  Open,  week-days,  7  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.,  8  to  lo  p.  m. ; 
:>undays,  i  to  6  p.  m.  Admission,  50  c. ;  Mondays  free.  American 
Water  Color  Society  (p.  321),  215  W.  S7th  st.  Annual  exhibition 
held  (February,  1915)  in  National  Arts  Club,  119  E.  19th  St.  Archi- 
tectural League  of  New  York,  215  W.  S7th  St.  Annual  exhibit 
(February)  in  Fine  Arts  Building.  New  York  Water  Color  Club, 
215  W.  57th  St.  Exhibition  held  annually  in  the  autumn,  in  American 
Fine  Arts  Building.  Open  daily,  10  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.;  Sundays,  i  to 
S  p.  m.  Admission,  week-days,i  25  c;  Sundays,  free.  American 
Society  of  Miniature  Painters  (Secretary's  address,  140  W.  S7th  St.). 
Annual  exhibition  held  with  National  Academy  of  Design,  in  the 
spring.  Art  Students'  League,  215  W.  57th  st.  Frequent  "One 
Man"  Exhibitions.  National  Society  of  Craftsmen,  119  E.  19th  St. 
Permanent  exhibition  in  salesrooms  of  society.  Open,  •  daily,  free, 
p  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Annual  exhibition  and  sale  held  in  December, 
in  galleries  of  National  Arts  Club.  Monthly  exhibition  in  the  Society's 
rooms.  National  Association  ,of  Portrait  Painters,  51  W.  loth  St. 
Occasional  exhibits  (last,  1915,  in  Seligman's  Galleries).  Ten  Amer- 
ican Painters,  founded  in  1898  (J.  Alden  Weir,  William  M.  Chase, 
Childe  Hassam,  Robert  Reid.  Edward  Simmons,  etc.).  Annual  exhi- 
bitions (191S.  Knoedler's  Gallery).  Twelve  Landscape  Painters  (Bruce 
Crane,  J.  Alden  Weir,  etc.).  First  exhibition  at  Macbeth  Galleries, 
191 5.  Association  of  Women  Painters  and  Sculptors  (formerly 
Woman's  Art  Club  of  New  York;  Secretary's  address,  131  W.  79th 
St.).      Exhibitions,   Arlington   and   Anderson   Galleries,    etc. 

Occasional  Exhibits:  Municipal  Art  Gallerv,  Irving  High  School, 
Irving  PL  and  17th  St.  Monthly  loan  exhibits."  National  Arts  Club, 
119  E.  19th  St.  Monthly  exhibits  open  to  the  public,  from  10  a.  m. 
to  6  p.  m.  MacDowell  Club,  108  W.  55th  St.  Art  Gallery:  Art 
exhibitions   twice   a   month;    self -organized   groups   of   eight   or   twelve 


SPORTS,  GAMES,   ETC.  65 

artists.  Open,  daily,  free,  to  the  public  (except  Mondays  and  Tues- 
days). Grolter  Club,  29  E.  32d  St.  Occasional  exhibits  for  biblio- 
philes. Admission  on  presentation  of  personal  card.  Museum  of 
t'rench  Art,  599  Fifth  Ave.  Affiliated  with  the  Institut  Frangais  aux 
£tat8-Unis.  Exhibition  Gallery  open  daily,  8  to  6  p.  m.;  occasional 
special  exhibits. 

The  following  Private  Clubs  hold  more  or  less  regular 
Art  Exhibitions  during  the  season.  Admission  by  member's 
card  onlv: 

Union  League  Club,  39th  St.  and  5th  Ave.;  monthly  exhibitions 
during  the  season;  usually  2d  Thursday,  with  Ladies'  Days  the  follow- 
ing Friday  and  Saturday.  Century  Association,  7  W.  43d  St.;  monthly 
exhibitions  of  works  by  members.  Lotos  Club,  no  W.  57th  St.; 
exhibitions  during  season,  3d  Saturday  each  month.  City  Club  of 
New  York,  55  W.  44th  St.;  exhibitions  of  paintings  and  sculpture 
changed  monthly.  Catholic  Club,  120  W.  59th  St.;  occasional  exhibi- 
tions and  lectures  on  art.  Salmagundi  Club,  14  W.  12th  St.;  frequent 
exhibitions.  Pen  and  Brush  Club,  132  E.  19th  St.;  frequent  exhibitions. 
Kit-Kat  Club,  13  £.  14th  St.;  annual  exhibition  and^  ball.  For  special 
exhibits  see  daily  papers,  especially  Saturday's  Evening  Post. 

XIII.     Sports,  Games,  Etc. 

Sports  may  be  classified  under  two  heads:  i.  big  public 
games  and  exhibitions,  such  as  professional  baseball  and 
horse  races,  at  which  the  general  public  plays  the  passive 
role  of  spectator;  2.  those  milder  forms  of  play,  such  as 
golf,  tennis  and  croquet,  in  which  the  chief  pleasure  con- 
sists, not  in  looking  on,  but  in  participating.  In  New  York 
the  first  of  these  classes  is  of  course  open  to  resident  and 
stranger  alike,  at  the  cost  of  a  ticket  of  admission.  But  the 
stranger  in  New  York  who  wishes  himself  to  indulge  in 
any  of  his  favorite  out-door  pastimes  will  find  a  regrettable 
dearth  of  opportunities.  In  no  city  is  land  space  so  ex- 
pensive, and  the  great  majority  of  golf  courses,  tennis  courts, 
and  athletic  fields  are  privately  owned  and  controlled  by 
the  various  Athletic  and  Country  Clubs,  admission  to  which 
can  of  course  be  had  only  through  introduction  by  a  member. 

In  many  of  the  public  parks,  however,  there  are  facil- 
ities for  a  number  of  the  more  popular  out-door  sports,  in- 
cluding baseball,  croquet,  cricket,  cross-country  runs,  foot- 
ball, golf,  lacrosse  and  tennis.  Season  permits  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  Department  of  Parks,  by  any  responsible 
person  or  organization,  upon  payment  of  a  nominal  fee. 
Application  should  be  made  to  the  following  offices:  Man- 
hattan Office,  Municipal  Building,  loth  floor;  Bronx  Office, 
Zborowski  Mansion,  Claremont  Pk. ;  Brooklyn  Office,  Litch- 
field Mansion,  Prospect  Pk. ;  Queen's  Office,  Forest  Pk. 
A  list  of  the  parks  ayailable  for  the  several  sports  will  be 
given   under   their   respective   paragraphs. 


66  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Athletics.  The  principal  Athletic  Clubs  in  New  York 
owning  spacious  outdoor  grounds  include  the  follwing:  The 
New  York  Athletic  Club,  cor.  of  6th  ave.  and  59th  st.,  has 
private  grounds  and  a  country  clubhouse  on  Travers  Island, 
Long  Island  Sound.  The  Pastime  Athletic  Club  has  grounds 
at  the  foot  of  E.  90th  st.  The  Irish- American  Athletic  Club 
holds  its  games  at  Celtic  Park.  The  Crescent  Athletic  Club 
of  Brooklyn,  has  grounds  at  the  foot  of  85th  st.,  Brooklyn. 
E^bets  Field,  the  grounds  of  the  Brooklyn  Baseball  Club, 
are  at  Montgomery  and  Bedford  aves.,  Brooklyn.  The  Polo 
Grounds,  where  professional  baseball  and  college  football 
games  are  held,  are  at  Eighth  ave.  and  155th  st.  Other  gym- 
nastic societies  include  the  following:  New  York  Turn 
Verein  (Gerpian  g3rmnastic  society),  Lexington  ave.,  cor.  of 
85th  St. ;  Columbia  University  (see  p.  270) ;  St,  George's  Club, 
207  E.  i6th  St.;  St.  Bartholomew  (boys'  club),  209  E.  42d  st. ; 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association  (p.  83)  with  grounds 
at  Mott  Haven  and  several  gymnasia  (chief  clubhouse  at 
215  W.  23d  St.,  see  p.  84).  The  Amateur  Athletic  Union 
has  its  office  at  21  Warren  st. 

Many  of  the  principal  public  athletic  contests,  both 
amateur  and  professional,  including  bicycling,  walking,  run- 
ning, etc.,  take  place  in  the  Madison  Square  Garden,  at  Mad- 
ison ave.  and  26th  st. 

Among  private  gymnasiums  may  be  mentioned:  The 
Savage  Gymnasium,  308  W.  59th  st.;  The  Berkeley  Lyceum 
Gymnasium,  19  W.  44th  St.;  The  Downtown  Businessman's 
Gymnasium,  50  Church  st. 

Aviation.  The  principal  Aviation  club  in  New  York 
is  the  Aero  Club  of  America  (organized  1905)  with  head- 
quarters at  297  Madison  ave.  It  has  a  membership  of  265 
resident  and  2&1  non-resident  members.  The  Aviation  field 
is  at  Mineola,  Long  Island.  The  Aeronautical  Society  of 
America  was  formed  in  1914,  with  the  purpose  of  furthering 
the  science  of  aeronautics.  The  club  has  branches  in  all 
parts  of  the  United  States.     Headquarters,  29  West  39th  st. 

Baseball  is  admittedly  the  great  national  sport,  and  one 
in  which  all  classes  and  all  ages  in  the  United  States  share 
alike.  In  the  big  universities  it  is  rivalled  alone  by  the  interest 
in  the  annual  intercollegiate  football  matches.  But  to  the 
general  public  the  fascination  of  baseball  is  paramount.  And 
while  there  are  countless  amateur  teams  and  minor  pro- 
fessional leagues,  what  a  foreigner  first  visiting  America 
should  understand  is  that  when  people  talk  of  baseball  they 


SPORTS,  GAMES,  ETC.  (^ 

may  be  presumed  to  be  talking  of  the  Championship  Series 
of  games  annually  played  by  the  picked  teams  of  the  two 
Major  Leagues,  the  National  League  and  the  American 
League.  There  are  eight  teams  in  each  league,  upon  each 
of  which  the  public  has  conferred  a  slang  appellation.  The 
National  League  consists  of:  i.  New  York,  "Giants"; 
2.  Brooklyn,  "Dodgers";  3.  Boston,  "Braves";  4.  Philadephia, 
"Phillies";  5.  Pittsburg,  "Pirates";  6.  Chicago,  "Cubs";  7. 
Cincinnati,  "Reds";  8.  St.  Louis,  "Cardinals."  In  the  Ameri- 
can League  are:  i.  New  York,  "Yankees";  2.  Boston.  "Red 
Sox" ;  3.  Philadelphia,  "Athletics" ;  4.  Cleveland,  "Indians" ; 
5.  Chicago,  "White  Sox";  6.  Washington,  "Senators";  7. 
Detroit,  "Tigers";  8.  St.  Louis,  "Browns."  The  schedule  for 
the  series  of  championship  games  is  arranged  by  a  National 
Commission  consisting  of  three  members,  two  of  whom  are 
the  respective  presidents  of  the  two  leagues.  At  the  close 
of  the  championship  series,  the  two  leading  teams  proceed  to 
play  the  World  Series  for  the  championship  of  the  year.  The 
choice  of  city  for  the  first  of  this  second  series  is  decided 
by  the  toss  of  a  coin. 

These  leagues  are  highly  organized  business  ventures,  carried  out 
on  a  huge  scale,  and  some  of  the  salaries  paid  'are  large.  One  member 
of  the  National  Commission,  as  now  constituted,  is  John  K.  Tener, 
formerly  Governor  of  Pennsylvania,  who  resigned  that  position  in  order 
to  become  president  of  the  National  League,  and  whose  present  salary 
is  understood  to  be  $25,000.  The  largest  salaries  paid  to  any  of  the 
plavers  range  between  $10,000  and  $15,000.  Among  the  highest  paid 
and  most  popular  players  should  be  mentioned  "Christie"^  Mathewson, 
manager  (Cincinnati) ;  "Jahnny"  Evers,  2d  base  ("Braves");  "Hans" 
Wagner,  shortstop  ("Pirates");  "Tv'*  Cobb,  outfield  ("Tigers"); 
Walter  Johnson,  pitcher  ("Senators**);  *'Eddie"  Collins,  ad  base 
("White  Sox").  It  is  generally  understood  that  the  highest  price 
ever  paid  for  a  player  was  paid  for  Collins,  the  owner  of  thei  **White 
Sox"  being  reputed  to  have  given  $65,000  to  the  owner  of  the 
"Athletics"  for  his  release. 

The  series  starts  between  April  loth  and  14th,  .usually  on  the  loth. 
After  the  championship  schedule  is  completed,  several  days  are  allowed 
the  players  in  which  to  rest  and  prepare  for  the  World  Series,  the 
date  being  decided  by  the  National  (Commission  (but  in  October).  Such 
games  of  the  series  as  are  played  in  Greater  New  York  take  place 
either  at  the  Polo  Grounds,  8th  ave.  and  iS5th  St.,  at  the  end  of  the 
Ninth  Ave.  El  R.  R.,  or  at  Ebbets'  Field,  Montgomery  st.  and  Bedford 
ave.,  Brooklyn  (Brighton  Beach  El.  to  Consumers*  Park  Station). 

Prices  (at  both  fields):  Upper  boxes,  $2.00;  lower  boxes,  $1.50; 
reserved  seats,  $1.00;  grandstand,  75  cents;  "bleachers,**  50  and 
35    cents. 

Bicycling.  Bicycling  as  a  sport  has  well  nigh  ceased  to 
exist  in  New  York,  and  a  bicycle  is  a  rare  sight  on  the  city 
streets,  except  when  used  by  district  messengers  or  as  a 
substitute  for  a  delivery  wagon.  The  motorcycle  on  the 
contrary  is  steadily  gaining  in  popularity. 


68  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Billiards  and  Pool.  Billiard  and  Pool  rooms  will  be 
found  in  practically  all  the  leading  hotels.  Among  the  better 
known  Billiard  parlors  may  be  mentioned  Maurice  Daly's, 
1615  Broadway;  George  F.  Slosson's,  1587  Broadway;  Joseph 
Thumbs,   1 241    Broadway. 

Bowling.  Among  the  many  public  bowling  alleys  of 
New  York  may  be  mentioned,  Joseph  Thumbs,  1241  Broad- 
way; Broadway  Arcade  Bowling  Alleys,  1943  Broadway; 
and  the  Grand  Central  Palace,  Lexington  ave.  and  45th  st. 

Canoeing.  Canoeing  is  practiced  on  both  the  Hudson 
and  Harlem  rivers  and  on  Gravesend  Bay.  On  several  of  the 
park  lakes  there  are  canoes  to  rent.  The  principal  clubs,  the 
New  Yorfs  Canoe  Club  and  the  Brooklyn  Canoe  Club,  have 
their  headquarters  at  Gravesend.  The  best  nearby  canoeing 
river  is  the  Passaic,  in  New  Jersey.  A  good  starting  point  is 
Singac,  where  canoes  can  be  rented. 

Cricket.  Cricket  in  America  is  not  a  public  sport  as  it 
is  in  England,  but  is  confined  almost  wholly  to  private  clubs. 
The  principal  ones  in  and  around  New  York  are:  i.  Those 
composing  the  New  York  and  New  Jersey  Cricket  Associa- 
tion, which  includes  Bensonhurst,  the  Richmond  County,  the 
Manor  Field,  the  Bensonhurst  Rovers,  the  Staten  Island  and 
the  Crescent  Athletic  Club;  2.  The  Metropolitan  District 
Cricket  League,  comprising  the  Manhattan,  the  Bensonhurst, 
the  Brooklyn,  the  Patterson,  the  King's  County  and  the 
Brooklyn  Wanderers. 

Driving.  In  New  York,  as  elsewhere,  driving  as  a  pas- 
time for  the  wealthy,  is  rapidly  being  superseded  by  motor- 
ing. And  on  5th  ave.,  where  less  than  a  generation  ago,  one 
of  the  sights  of  New  York,  any  pleasant  afternoon,  was  the 
long  procession  of  fashionable  equipages  with  liveried  coach- 
man and  footman,  a  private  carriage  today,  in  the  endless 
stream  of  automobiles,  is  almost  a  curiosity.  The  fashionable 
drives,  so  far  as  the  custom  is  still  maintained,  are  through 
Central   Park  and  along  Riverside  Drive. 

Owners  of  "fast  trotters,'*  less  numerous  than  in  former 
years,  resort  chiefly  to  the  Speedway  (p.  353),  which  skirts 
the  W.  bank  of  the  Harlem  River  to  the  N.  of  155th  st. 
Until  comparatively  recently  7th  ave.,  above  Central  Park, 
was  also  a  daily  scene  of  fast  trotting,  and  was  kept  a  soft 
dirt  road  for  the  purpose;  but  it  is  now  paved. 

Public  "Four-in-hand"  coaches  make  daily  trips  through 


SPORTS,  GAMES,   ETC.  69 

northern  New  York  into  Westchester  County,  during  April, 
May  and  June,  starting  from  the  Holland  House  and  the 
Waldorf-Astoria  (seats  usually  $5.00).  Coaches  may  also 
be  chartered  by  the  day  for  private  coaching  parties. 

Fishing.  Salt  water  fishing  is  practically  the  only  kind 
within  convenient  reach  of  New  York  City.  There  are  many 
near-by  points  along  the  coasts  of  Long  Island  and  New 
Jersey  where  striped  bass,  blue  fish,  weak  fish,  etc.  may  be 
taken.  In  the  spring,  shad  enter  the  Hudson  River,  and  in 
some  seasons  may  be  taken  in  abundance  but  they  are  netted 
with  seines.  Steamers  specially  built  for  deep  sea  fishing, 
make  daily  trips  during  the  season,  lying  out  at  sea  all  day. 
Some  of  them  start  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  Battery, 
but  the  majority  have  their  headquarters  at  Sheepshead  Bay 
The  average  price  is  $1.00  per  passenger,  who  is  usually  ex- 
pected to  provide  his  own  luncheon.  Lists  of  these  steamers 
are  published  in  the  daily  papers.  See  especially  the  Sun  and 
Evening  Telegram,  which  make  a  feature  of  their  fishing 
column.  Fresh  water  fishing  involves  a  railway  trip  of  many 
miles.  Some  of  the  railways,  especially  those  in  New  Jersey, 
issue  Fishing  Booklets  giving  distances,  excursion  rates  and 
the  kind  of  fish  to  be  caught  at  places  along  their  lines. 

Football.  There  are  now  practically  no  football  games 
in  New  York  which  attract  those  not  immediately  interested. 
Columbia  University  has  for  the  present  ceased  to  play 
intercollegiate  matches,  and  the  game  has  been  given  up 
by  the  athletic  clubs.  Occasional  intercollegiate  games  are 
played  at  the  Polo  Grounds  (not  used  for  polo,  by  the  way). 
The  Englishman  must  remember  that  American  "football 
is  not  "Rugby"  or  "socker**  but  quite  a  different  game. 

Golf.  The  principal  golf  clubs  within  convenient  distance 
of  New  York  City  makeupthe  Metropolitan  Golf  Association, 
the  membership  of  which  is  limited  to  active  and  allied  clubs 
of  the  United  States  Golf  Association  within  fifty-five  miles 
of  the  city,  including  the  whole  of  Long  Island  (76  clubs 
in  1915). 

The  following  is-  a  partial  list  of  the  more  accessible  clubs: 
Ardsley  Club,  Ardsley-on-Hudson,  N.  Y.;  Brooklyn  Forest  Park  Golf 
Club,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.;  Canoe  Brook  Country  Club,  Summit,  N.  J.; 
Century  Country  Club,  White  Plains,  N.  Y.;  Crescent  Athletic  Club, 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.;  Dunwoodie  Country  Club,  Yonkers,  N.  Y.;  Flushing 
Country  Club,  Flushing,  L.  I.;  Fox  Hills  Golf  Club,  Clifton,  S.  I.; 
Forest  Hill  Golf  Club,  Belleville,  N.  J.;  Garden  City  Golf  Club, 
Garden  City,  L.  I.;  Hackensack  Golf  Club,  Hackensack,  N.  J.;  Inwood 
Country  Club.  Inwood,  N.  Y.;  Knollwood  Country  Club,  White  Plains, 
N.   Y.;   Midland  Golf  Club,  Garden   City,  L.    I.;    Ocean   Country  Club. 


70  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Far  Rockaway,  L.  I.;  Richmond  County  Country  Club,  Dongan  Hills, 
S.  I.;  Saegkill  Golf  Club,  Yonkers,  N.  Y.;  Stwanoy  Country  Club, 
Mount  Vernon,  N.  Y.;  St.  Andrew's  Golf  Club,  Mt.  Hope,  N.  Y.; 
Sunningdale  Country  Club,  Mt.  Vernon,  N.  Y.;  Wykagyl  Country  Club, 
New  Rochelle,  N.  V.;  Baltusrol  Golf  Club,  Baltusrol,  N.  J.;  Nassau 
Country  Club,  Glen  Cove,  L.  I.;  Fox  Hills  Golf  Club,  Staten  Island; 
Apawamis  Club,  Rye,  N.  Y. 

All  these,  of  course,  are  private  clubs,  and  open  to  visitors  only 
when  properly  introduced  by  a  member.  The  only  public  Golf  courses 
within  Greater  New  York  are  in  the  following  parks,  where  anyone  may 
play  upon  obtaining  a  permit,  for  which  a  nominal  fee  is  charged:  Van 
Cortlandt  Park,  Broadway  and  240th  st. ;  Pelham  Bay  Park,  N.  E.  end 
of  city  (reached  by  N.  Y.,  Westchester  and  Boston,  R.  R.) ;  Dyker 
Beach  Park,  on  Gravesend  Bay;  Forest  Park,  Woodhaven,  L.  I. 

Horse  Racing.  The  chief  Horse  Races  near  New  York 
are  those  of  the  Westchester  Racing  Association  at  Belmont 
Park ;  the  Brooklyn  Jockey  Club  at  Gravesend,  betw.  Brook- 
lyn and  Coney  Island;  the  Empire  City  Racing  Association 
at  Yonkers;  the  Coney  Island  Jockey  Club  at  Sheepshead 
Bay;  the  Queens  County  Jockey  Club  at  Aqueduct  (L.  I.); 
and  the  Metropolitan  Jockey  Club  at  Jamaica.  Now  that 
there  is  no  official  betting  less  interest  is  taken  in  the  races 
and  they  are  run  intermittently  (see  daily  papers).  Adm.  to 
grand-stand,  $2;  to   field,  50-75C. 

Steeplechasing  is  carried  on  under  the  auspices  of  the 
National  Steeplechase  and  Hunt  Association  and  the  United 
Hunts  Racing  Association.  Fox  Hunting  (with  a  "drag"  or 
carted  fox)  is  carried  on  in  Long  Island  and  New  Jersey. 

Motoring.  Motoring  as  a  pastime  has  recently  attained 
a  phenomenal  popularity;  and  especially  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  the  ceaseless  stream  of  automobiles  along  the  main 
arteries  of  travel  to  favorite  suburban  resorts,  form  one  of 
the  most  striking  spectacles  of  the  metropolis.  The  chief 
organizations  in  connection  with  motoring  are  the  Automobile 
Club  of  America,  S4th  st.,  W.  of  Broadway,  with  a  member- 
ship of  about  2300  (the  aim  of  the  club  being  to  promote 
the  development  of  motor  cars,  and  to  secure  improved  high- 
ways) ;  and  the  American  Automobile  Association,  at  437 
5th  ave.,  a  national  organization  comprising  475  different 
clubs,  with  an  aggregate  membership  of  100,000.  Both  of 
these  Associations  have  admirably  equipped  garages  for  the 
use  of  out-of-town  members,  at  moderate  rates.  The  forty- 
mile  Motor  Parkway  on  Long  Island  has  no  speed  limit.  It 
extends  all  the  way  to  Ronkonkomo  and  has  no  grade  cross- 
ings. Charges  for  privilege  of  using  it:  Motor  car,  $1.00; 
motor  cycle,  50c. 

The   recently  constructed   Sheepshead  Bay  Motordrome 


SPORTS,  GAMES,  ETC.  71 

is  now  the  scene  of  the  principal  automobile  races  taking 
place  in  or  around  New  York.  The  famous  "Vanderbilt 
Cup"  Race,  formerly  the  big  annual  event  on  Long  Island, 
has  since  1910  been  run  elsewhere  (Savannah,  Milwaukee, 
San  Francisco,  etc.). 

Polo  is  played  mainly  at  the  country  clubs  (p.  74)- 
The  two  important  clubs  are  the  Islip  Polo  Club,  Bay  Shore, 
L.  I.,  and  the  Polo  Association,  17  Battery  PI.  The  inter- 
national polo  matches  are  held  at  the  Meadowbrook  Club, 
Meadowbrook,  L.  I. 

Riding.  Although  horseback  riding  in  New  York  has 
lost  much  of  its  old  time  popularity,  yet  on  any  pleasant  day 
one  of  the  sights  of  interest  to  strangers  is  the  attractive 
group  of  thoroughbred  saddle  horses,  waiting  with  their 
grooms  at  the  main  entrance  to  the  Central  Park  Bridle-path, 
at  Broadway  and  59th  st.  Because  of  the  extent  and  ad- 
mirable condition  of  this  bridle-path,  it  is  the  principal  resort 
of  the  great  majority  of  New  Yorkers  who  still  indulge  in 
this  form  of  exercise, — especially  since  it  adjoins  the  wealth- 
iest residential  section  in  the  city.  There  are  also  bridle- 
paths along  Riverside  Drive,  extending  nearly  to  Grant's 
Tomb;  in  Van  Cortlandt  Park  in  the  Bnonx;  and  in  Forest 
Park,  Jamaica.  Saddle  horses  may  be  hired  by  the  hour  for 
out-door  riding  from  any;  of  the  riding  academies.  The  fol- 
lowing are  among  the  best  known :  Durland's  Riding  Academy, 
5  W.  66th  St.;  Central  Park  Riding  Academy,  7th  ave.  and 
59th  st. ;  Van  Cortlandt  Park  Riding  School,  Van  Cortlandt 
Park.  The  private  clubs  in  Manhattan  devoted  to  this  pas- 
time are :  The  New  York  Riding  Qub,  with  headquarters  at 
Durland's;  and  the  Riding  Club,  at  No.  7  E.  58th  st.  In 
Brooklyn,  near  the  entrance  to  Prospect  Park,  is  the  Riding 
and  Driving  Club,  one  of  the  largest  institutions-  of  the 
kind  in  the  country. 

Rowing.  Row  boats  for  private  use  may  be  hired  at 
a  number  of  boat  houses  along  the  Harlem  River,  at  an 
average  price  of  50  cts.  per  hour;  also  on  the  Hudson  River, 
although  the  boats  are  clumsy  and  the  water  is  usually  too 
rough  and  the  current  too  strong  for  comfort.  Many  of  the 
lakes  in  the  city  parks  rent  row  boats  and  canoes.  The  two- 
mile  stretch  of  the  Bronx  River,  where  it  passes  through 
Bronx  Park,  is  especially  popular  during  the  summer  months. 
The  following  is  a  list  of  the  other  parks  with  boating 
facilities:  Manhattan:  Central  Park  (special  feature,  the 
so-called  "Swan  Boats");  Bronx:  Crotona,  Pelham  Bay, 
and  Van  Cortlandt  Parks;  Brooklyn:  Prospect  Park. 


72  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

There  are  many  rowing  clubs  with  boat  houses  along 
the  Harlem  River,  and  a  few  on  the  Hudson  River,  and  on 
the  Brooklyn  and  Staten  Island  shores  of  the  harbor.  During 
the  summer,  annual  regattas  are  held  on  the  Hudson  River 
(Woodcliff  course),  by  the  Hudson  River  Rowing  Associa- 
tion, and  on  the  Harlem  River  by  the  New  York  Rowing 
Association. 

Sea  Bathing.  Public  accommodations  for  sea  bathing 
are  arranged  at  Bensonhurst,  Dyker,  and  Seabreeze,  all  in 
Brookl3m.  All  public  park  recreations  are  free.  Private 
commercial  enterprises  at  the  various  beaches  oflFer  more 
opportunities  for  sea  bathing.  For  bathing,  the  tourist 
should  avoid  Coney  Island  and  the  other  nearer  and  more 
crowded  resorts.  Rockaway  Beach  and  the  Staten  Island 
beach  resorts  are  but  little  better,  and  Long  Beach  and  points 
east  thereof  are  recommended. 

Shooting.  The  famous  rifle-ranges  at  Creedmore,  Long 
Island,  12^2  miles  from  the  City  Hall,  now  belong  to  the  New 
York  State  militia.  There  are  several  gun  clubs  for  "trap" 
and  pigeon  shooting  in  New  Jersey. 

Skating.  Outdoor  skating  in  winter  can  be  enjoyed  in 
a  number  of  the  larger  city  parks;  in  Manhattan,  at  Central 
Park;  in  the  Bronx,  in  Crotona,  Van  Cortlandt  and  Bronx 
Parks;  in  Brooklyn,  at  Prospect  Park;  in  Queens,  at  Kis- 
sena  Park,  Flushing,  and  Upland  Park,  Jamaica.  The  out- 
lying parks  are  less  crowded  than  the  central  ones.  There 
are  a  number  of  outdoor  rinks  throughout  the  city,  and  very 
recently  some  of  the  large  hotels  have  opened  roof  rinks. 
The  best-known  indoor  rink*  is  the  St.  Nicholas,  at  No.  69 
W.  66th  St. 

ft 

Tennis.  Among  the  chief  clubs  are  the  New  York 
Athletic,  at  Travers  Island,  New  Rochelle;  the  West  Side 
at  Morningside  Heights;  and  the  Kings  County,  at  Kingston 
and  St.  Mark's  aves.,  Brooklyn.  From  May  to  October 
strangers  may  play  in  the  Tennis  Building,  W.  41st  St.,  near 
Seventh  ave.  Indoor  tennis  is  also  played  in  the  Seventh 
Regiment  Armory  and  in  the  Racquet  and  Tennis  Club, 
27  W.  43d  St.,  betw.  Fifth  and  Sixth  aves. 

Tennis  Courts  (several  hundred)  are  found  in  the  fol- 
lowing parks :  In  Manhattan,  Central ;  in  the  Bronx,  Van 
Cortlandt,  Bronx,  Pelham,  Crotona,  Claremont,  Franz  Siegel, 
Poe,  St.  James,  St.  Mary's,  McComb's  Dam;  in  Brooklyn, 
Prospect  Park;  in  Queens,  Forest  and  Kissena  Park. 


CLUBS  73 

XIV.    Clubs 

Clubs.  The  chief  clubs,  to  which  strangers  can  obtain 
access  only  when  introduced  by  a  member,  are  the  following: 
Manhattan  Club,  at  the  corner  of  E.  26th  st.  and  Madison  sq. 
see  p.  209  (1500  members;  democratic)  ;  Union  League,  Fifth 
ave.,  corner  39th  st,  see  p.  185  (1800 members;  social)  ;  Union 
I  E.  51st  St.,  cor.  Fifth  ave.  (1600  members;  social);  Uni- 
versity, Yihh  Ave.,  cor.  54th  st.,  for  college  graduates  (3300 ' 
members);  Century  (p.  197),  7  W.  43rd  st.  (literary  and  artis- 
tic; celebrated  meetings  on  the  first  Sat.  of  each  month); 
Metropolitan.  Fifth  ave.,  cor.  60th  st.  (the  "Millionaires* 
Club";  initiation  fee  $300,  annual  dues  $125) ;  Lotos,  no  W. 
S7th  St.  (art) ;  Knickerbocker,  2  E.  62d  st.  (500  mem- 
bers ;  sporting  and  fashionable) ;  Reform,  9  So.  William 
St.  (for  those  interested  in  political  reforms;  600  members)  ; 
City  Club,  55  W.  44th  st.  (for  those  interested  in  municipal 
reform;  1300  members);  Merchants'  Club,  106  Leonard  st. ; 
New  York,  20  W,  40th  st. ;  St.  Nicholas  Club  (p.  197)  7  W. 
44th  St.  (250  members;  confined  to  descendants  of  old 
New  York  families)  ;  Republican,  54  W.  40th  st.  (political) ; 
National  Democratic,  617  Fifth  ave.  (political) ;  Aero  of 
America,  297  Madison  2ive.;  Automobile  Club,  247  W.  54th  st. ; 
N.  Y.  Yacht  Club,  37  W.  44th  st;  Salmagundi,  14  W.  12th 
st  (art).  Authors'  Club,  883  Seventh  ave.;  N.  Y.  Press 
Club,  21  Spruce  St. ;  City  History  Club,  105  W.  40th  St. ;  The 
Players,  16  Gramercy  Park,  with  interesting  pictures  and 
relics  and  the  rooms  once  occupied  by  Edwin  Booth  (1833- 
93),  maintained  as  they  were  left  at  his  death;  Bar  Associa- 
tion, 42  W.  44th  st;  Lawyers'  Club,  115  Broadway;  Engineers' 
Club,  32  W.  40th  St.,  opposite  the  Public  Library  (2000  mem- 
bers) ;  Transportation  Club,  in  the  Manhattan  Hotel ; 
Machinery  Club,  50  Church  st.  (p.  136) ;  Railroad  Club,  30 
Church  st ;  Drug  and  Chemical  Club,  100  William  st ;  Grolier 
Club,  29  E.  32d  st;  (art,  books  and  prints)  ;  Calumet  Club,  12 
W.  56th  st  (social)  ;  German  Club  (Deutscher  Verein; 
p.  230),  112  Central  Park  South;  Progress  Club,  Cen- 
tral Park  West,  cor.  88th  st.  (Hebrew)  ;  Harmonic,  10  E. 
6oth  st  (Hebrew) ;  Arion  (p.  217),  Park  ave.,  cor.  S9th 
St.  (German  and  musical)  ;  Freundschaft,  105  W.  57th  st. 
(German):  Alliance  Fran^aise,  200  5th  ave.;  43  Cedar 
st  (1000  members);  Aldine  Club.  Fifth  ave.  and  23d  st 
(social)  ;  Downtown  Association,  60  Pine  st.  (these  two  lunch- 
ing clubs) ;  Harvard,  27  W.  44th  st;  Yale,  44th  st.  and  Van- 
derbilt  ave.;  Columbia  University  Club,  18  (iramercy  Park; 
Princeton  Club,  121  E.  21st  st. ;  University  of  Pennsylvania 


74  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Club,  233  Broadway;  National  Arts  Club,  14  Gramercy 
Park;  Lambs*  Club,  130  W.  44th  St.;  Catholic,  120  Central 
Park  South;  Army  and  Navy,  107  W.  43d  St.;  The  Friars, 
a  club  of  press  agents,  no  W.  48th  st. ;  Chemists'  Club,  52  E. 
41st  St.;  German  Liederkranz  Club,  in  E.  58th  st;  Physician^ 
and  Surgeons'  Club,  346  W.  57th  st. ;  Racquet  and  Tennis 
Club,  27  W.  43d  St.;  United  Service  Club,  McAlpin  Hotel; 
MacDowell  Club  (music,  art  and  literature),  108  W.  55th  st. ; 
Technology  Club,  17  Gramercy  Park. 

Among  the  women's  clubs  are  the  Barnard  Club,  883 
Seventh  ave.  (for  men  and  women)  ;  Colony  Club,  for  women, 
Park  ave.  and  62d  St.;  Women^s  Pen  and  Brush  Club,  132 
E.  19th  St.;  Women's  University  Club,  106  E.  52d  St.; 
Women's  Municipal  League,  4IS  E.  29th  st.  (2100  members)  ; 
Women's  City  Club,  Hotel  Vanderbilt  (new  and  growing).  . 

Among  the  chief  Country  Clubs  near  New  York  are: 
Ardsley,  Ardsley-on-Hudson,  N.  Y. ;  Canoe  Brook,  Summit, 
N.  J. ;  Century,  White  Plains,  N.  Y. ;  Country  Club  of  Lake- 
wood,  Lakewood,  N.  J. ;  Siwanoy,  Bronxville,  N.  Y. ;  Meadow 
Brook,  Westbury,  L.  I.;  Inwood  Club,  Inwood,  L.  I.; 
Flushing  Country  Club,  Flushing,  L.  I.;  Knollwood  Club, 
White  Plains,  N.  Y. ;  Maplewood  Field  Club,  Maple- 
wood,  N.  J. ;  Nassau  Club,  Glen  Cove,  L.  I. ;  Ocean  Club,  Far 
Rockaway,  N.  Y. ;  Piping  Rock  Club,  Locust  Valley,  L.  I. ; 
South  Shore  Field  Club,  Bay  Shore,  L.  I. ;  Richmond  County 
Club,  Dongan  Hills,  S.  I.;  Tuxedo  Club,  Tuxedo  Park,  N.'Y. ; 
Wykagyl  Club,  New  Rochelle,  N.  Y.,  and  many  others  on 
Long  Island.    See  also  Golf  Clubs,  in  section  on  Golf,  p.  69-70. 

XV.    Shops  and  Stores 

The  principal  New  York  shopping  district,  including  a  ma- 
jority of  the  leading  department  stores,  extends  from  Greeley 
Square  east  through  34th  st.  and  north  on  5th  ave.  practically 
to  Central  Park.  This  whole  section  is  a  development  of  the 
last  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  in  what  was  previously  New 
York's  choicest  residential  district.  The  former  shopping 
centres,  now  almost  deserted,  were  lower  6th  ave.,  14th  and 
23d  sts.,  and  Broadway  in  the  vicinity  of  Union  square.  Be- 
cause of  its  proximity  to  the  East  Side,  14th  st.  is  likely  to 
remain  for  a  long  time  a  retail  business  street,  catering 
chiefly  to  the  working  classes;  but  23d  st.  within  the  space 
of  a  couple  of  years  has  been  transformed  from  a  retail 
to  a  wholesale  section.  On  5th  ave.  north  of  23d  st.  are 
some  interesting  shops;  but  few  transient  visitors  will  find 
any  necessity,  in  doing  their  shopping,  of  going  south  of  32d  st. 


SHOPS    AND   STORES  75 


Aside  from  the  dcpartncnt  stores,  the  chief  treasnrcs  of  N( 
York's  retail  stock  are  to  he  found  in  the  Fifth  are.  stores  and  shoL 
Here  are  practicallr  all  of  the  leading  jeweDers  and  slreraniiths,  the 
Icadii^  dealers  in  fine  pcircelain  and  glass,  the  galleries  for  the  cx- 
hfhition  and  sale  of  paiffrpgs  and  objects  of  art,  the  most  exdnsiTe 
house  fnroishers  and  decorators.  On  the  side  streets  adjacent  to  Fifth 
aTCL  aboTC  42d  St.,  and  aloi«  Madison  ave.  are  to  be  focnid  a  mnkitnde 
of  nmisiial  shops,  devoted  to  high-grade  specialties,  antiques,  rare  laces, 
choice   ^^'^"BgiF   and   cngrarings,   etc. 

But  it  wonld  be  qnite  misleading,  in  a  city  of  soch  huge , pro- 
portions as  New  York,  to  imply  that  the  shops  worth  patronizing 
are  confined  to  any  one  locality.  On  the  contrary,  they  are  scattered 
everywhere,  ah»ng  upper  Broadway,  on  the  cross-streets,  and  even  in 
the  downtown  business  and  financial  districts.  Not  a  few  bargains  of 
an  unusual  sort  may  be  picked  up  in  the  numerous  arcades  in  the 
larger  ofiice  boildings  and  the  various  railroad   terminals. 

Shofis  fall  into  two  general  classes,  the  department  stores 
and  the  smaller  shops  carrying  bat  one  line  of  goods.  The 
department  stores  offer  goods  of  all  grades  np  to  the  most 
costly  imported  treasures.  The  following  list,  arranged  in 
geograi^ical  order,  indicates  only  the  general  mn  of  prices 
and  the  especially  good  departments.  WanAnukei's,  betw. 
8th  and  loth  sts^  *  Broadway  and  4th  ave.  (Subway  to 
Astor  place  or  snrface  cars  on  Broad  war  or  4th  ave.)  Two 
stores,  connected  by  underground  aisles  and  a  bridge. 
Especially  good  in  silks,  kitchen  utensils.  Japanese  goods, 
china.  Carries  a  line  of  English  imported  coats,  hats,  etc 
(Restaurant  see  p  25).  Beam's  14th  st.,.  S.  side,  betw. 
>th  and  6th  aves.  Very  low-priced  goods;  especially 
large  line  of  infants'  clothing  and  boys'  suits.  Greenhut 
Co.,  formerly  two  stores  6th  ave.  and  i8th  st,  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  street,  but  the  store  on  the  West 
Side  (originally  Altman's)  is  now  dosed.  Low-priced 
gocxb.  wide  range  of  departments.  Gimbel's,  Broadway  and 
33d  St.,  one  of  the  most  recent  of  New  York's  department 
stores.  It  carries  a  high-grade  stock  and  has  an  especially  fine 
line  of  furniture  and  of  silks  and  other  dress  goods.  Its  semi- 
annual *^Promenade  des  Toilettes"  is  one  of  the  familiar  fea- 
tures of  New  York  life.  (Restaurant  see  p.  25.)  Macy's 
(PI.  Ill — C2)  6th  ave.,  between  34th  and  35th  sts.  6th  ave. 
elevated  to  34th  st.,  or  surface  cars.  Seeks  reputation  of 
being  a  "price-cutter.",  (iood  grocery  and  delicatessen  de- 
partment, business  stationery,  glassware,  dress  trim- 
mings. (Restaurant  see  p.  25.)  The  following  stores  have 
no  departments  of  grroceries.  etc :  McCreery's.  (p.  183)  34th 
st,  N.  side,  betw.  5th  and  6th  aves.  Somewhat  higher  grade 
goods  carried;  specialt)-  silks.  Altman's,  (PL  III — J>2)  5th 
ave.  and  34th  st,  beautiful  high-grade  stock ;  specialties,  silks, 
lingerie,  rugs  and  house  furnishings.  Takes  pride  in  the  high 


76  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

standard  of  its  retail  service.  Lord  &;  Taylor  (p.  184),  5th 
ave.  and  38th  st.  Is  the  newest  and  most  beautiful  of  the 
large  stores.  Prices  not  high  considering  the  quality  of  the 
goods.  Specialties,  costumes,  suits,  silk,  stockings.  (Res- 
taurant see  p.  25.)  Stern's  (PI.  I— B3)  42nd  st.,  N.  side  betw. 
5th  and  6th  aves.  Prices  and  goods  similar  to  McCreery's 
Specialty  gloves.  Best,  Bonwit  Teller,  and  Franklin  Simons, 
though  as  large  as  department  stores,  have  been  grouped  with 
the  specialty  shops,  because  their  departments  cover  a  nar- 
rower range. 

The  following  classified  list  of  specialty  shops  makes  no 
pretense  of  being  exhaustive;  it  merely  suggests  for  the 
benefit  of  the  stranger  in  the  city  a  few  of  the  admittedly 
leading  stores  in  each  line.  The  prices  range  higher  than  in 
the  department  stores  and  much  of  the  stock  is  imported. 

Antiques     and     Bricsa-brac:        Duveen     Bros.,     720     5th  Ave.; 

Charles  of  London,   718   sth   Ave.;    C.    &  E.    Canessa,    S47  ,5th  Ave.; 

Aimone  Galleries,   Madison   Ave.   and   45th   St.;   Boston  Antique  Shop, 
275    Sth    Ave.;    Worch    of    Paris,    467    5th    Ave.;    Frank    Bowles,,    422 

Madison  Ave.;  House  of  Philip  Oriel,  23  E.  4?th  St.;    Villoresi,  15   E. 

47th   St.;    Olivotti  &  Co.,   352   Madison   Ave.;   Russian  Antique  Shop, 

I  E.  28th  St. 

Booksellers:  For  a  city  of  its  size,  New  York  is  poorly  supplied 
with  bookstores.  The  continental  traveller  will  especially  note  the  lack 
of  second-hand  booksellers.  New  York  has,  however,  a  few  bookshops 
which,  in  sumptuous  setting  and  equipment,  are  unrivaled  the  world 
over.  The  *Scribner  store  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  bookstore  in 
the  world,  and  *Brentano*s  the  largest  in  New  York.  Charles  Scrihner's 
Sons,  597-599  Fifth  Ave.,  with  an  extensive  collection  of  all  kinds  of 
books,  fine  bindings,  rarities,  etc.;  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons,  2-6  W.  45th 
St.;  Robert  H,  Dodd,  Fourth  Ave.  and  30th  St.,  rarities;  E.  P. 
Button  &  Co.,  681  Fifth  Ave.;  Brentano,  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  27th  St. 
(large  foreign  department);  Fleming  H.  Revell  Co.,  156  Fifth  Ave. 
(especially  religious);  JVilliam  R.  Jenkins  Co.,  851  Sixth  Ave.; 
Lemcke  &  Buechner,  30-33  W.  27th  St.  (German  books);  Stechert,  G. 
E.,  &  Co.,  155  W.  2Sth  St.  (German);  Steiger,  E.,  &  Co.,  49  Murray 
St.  (German).  The  two  newest  bookshops,  The  Lord  &  Taylor  Book- 
shop, 5th  Ave.  and  38th  St.,  and  The  Suntvise  Turn,  2  E.  31st  St., 
make  a  point  of  up-to-date  methods. — S/econd-hand  Booksellers:  Smith, 
48  Wall  St.,  rare  books  only;  Mendoza,  17  Ann  St.;  Schulte,  132  E. 
23d    St.;   Malkan,   42    Broadway. — Maps:     Hammond,    30    Church    St. 

Caterers:  Louis  F.  Massetti,  103-107  W.  49th  St.;  Dean's,  628 
5th  Ave.;  Cardani,  6th  Ave.  and  53d  St.;  Plasa  Catering  Company, 
431    Park   Ave. 

China  and  Glass:  Gilman  Collamore  &  Co.,  sth  Ave.  and  30th 
St.;  Davis,  Collamore  &  Co.,  5th  Ave.  and  48th  St.;  Haviland  &  Co., 

II  E.  36th  St.;  Higgins  &  Seiter,  9  E.  37th  St.;  Long  Sang  Ti  Co., 
293  and  323  5th  Ave.;  Ovington  Bros.  Co.,  314  sth  Ave.;  Plummer  & 
Co.,   7   E.   35th   St.;   Royal  Copenhagen  Porcelain   Co.,    256  5th  Ave. 

Children's  Clothing:  Best  cor.  sth  ave.  and  36th  st.;  DePinna, 
625  5th  ave.,  W.  side,  cor.  50th  st. 

Druggists:  Riker  Drug  Stores,  2  W.  14th  St.,  6th  Ave.  and  33d 
St.,  6th  Ave.  afld  42d   St.,  42d  St.  near  5th  Ave.,  7th  Ave.  and  34th 


SHOPS    AND    STORES  11 

St..  Broadway  a«d  46th  St..  i5  W    34^h  S^^^ 

Manhattan  and  the  Bronx;   ^'^^''^^X^J'f^J^^''^^'^^^        Hetherinffton, 

*   Co  ^%f\th   Avc^i    Kalish   Pharmacy,  4th    Ave.    and    23d    St..    6  b 

tvf 'i«d'?8U?  SU  and  6.6  Madison  Ave.  ^---/-^.V^J.r.r'Hotd 

St.     B<nxno*  ;^/>o«*ircoo.    The   Anson^.  j^j^^^^J^^'^'ls    £%^^ 

Astor.    also    three    other   branches.      Haas  pharmacy,    30 

^^  %*LORiSTst'  Bof/flr*.  970  6th  Ave  ;  M  A  Bowe  ^3^  Vh  Ave  ; 
Bards,, 341  Madison  Ave.  and  114  VV.  724  St  ;  T/ie  M^C^Z'eU  dli 
t^Td  St •  V/^«c/»man,  goo  Sth  Ave.,  30  Church  St.;  JWcConwj«,  ftn 
5th  Av^/u^Kenny    ^^.  iad  St.;  Myer.  Madison  Ave.  and  s8th  St 

fh'^-Wot^rAn^o^a/a^^S  fo^r!  K«  S^^^s^rSttrr^^t  JV^^^^^^ 
/*•.,  541   5tb  Ave.  _  ^ 

Furs:  C.  G.  Gunther  &  Sons.  391  Sth  Ave.;  Shayne  &  Co.,  126 
W.  42d  St.;  Revillon  Frires,  19  W  .34th  St.;^.  J<^ckel&  Co  384 
.Sth  Ave.;  Russek,  358  .sth  Ave.;  Mischo  &  Co.,  29-35  W.  s^d  St., 
Konvalinka  &  Weiss,  36  Maiden  Lane. 

Gloves:  C^tit^tn^W,  296  5tb  Ave.,  W.  side  near  31st  St.;  Cross, 
S.   W.  corner   5th  Ave.   and   37tb   St.    (heavy  gloves). 

Groceries:  *Park  Sr  Tilford,  5th  Ave.  and  26th  St.,  784  5th  Ave., 
Madison  Ave.  and  76th 'St.,  and  nine  other  branches  (make  excellent 
candies  also) ;  Acker,  Merrali  and  Condxt  Co.,  135  W.  ^f  ^^u  366  5  th 
Ave.,  6th  Ave.  and  57th  St.,  and  27  other  branches;  ^^^""^^^ ^  ^^•''^^^;' 
43d  St.;  Macy's  (see  Department  Stores);  Vendowe,  10  E.  47th  St. 
(caviar  and  imported  deUcacies) ;  Maxson  Frangaxse  4  E.  46th  St. 
(caviar,  etc.);  *Mouquin  Rest,  and  Wire  Co  Ann  St.  near  Broadway 
^French  canned  goods,  cheeses  etc.);  *  fella  Bros..  15+  West  Broadway. 
(Italian  cheeses,  spaghetti,  and   canned   goods). 

Hats  (for  Men):  Dohhs  &  Co..  242  5th  Ave.;  Dunlap  &  Co.,  180 
Sth  Ave.  and  181  Broadway;  Knox,  452  5th  Ave.  and  i(  J'Ofaway; 
Wallach  Brothers,  1201  Broadway,  647  8th  Ave..  248  W .  i25tn  M,: 
Young  Bros.,   849,   903.    "97.    1361    Broadway. 

Laces:  Sara  Hadley,  9  E.  3Sth  St.;  Fertig,  34th  St.  near  Madison 
Ave*  Pietro  Cattadori  (Venetian  Laces  and  Linens),  734  5th  Ave.; 
Saleeby*s  "Real  Lace  Shop,"  14  E.  34th  St.;  Specialty  Lace  Shop, 
3  E.  45th  St. 

Leather  Goods  (See  also  Trunks,  etc.):  Mark  Cross  Co.,  404  .5th 
Ave.;  253  Broadway;  Epstein,  171  Mad'son  Ave.;  Gras  &  Co.,  41  W. 
.^2d  St.;  H.  J.,  64  Lisoenard  St.;  Lehman  &  Co..  325  ';th  Ave,; 
London  Leather  Goods  Shoppe,  240  sth  Ave.;  Wilcox  &  WUcox,  286 
5th  Ave.;   Charles  R.    Wolff,   3^5    5th   Ave. 

Linens  and  Embroidepifs:  *McCtttrhnnn.  345  5th  Ave.,  cor  ^A*h 
St.;  McGibbon,  1-3  W.  37th  St.;  Walpole  Bros..  373  Sth  Ave.;  Grande 
Maison  de  Blanc,  540  5th  Ave.;  Gebruder  Mpsse,  19  W.  45th  St.; 
Porto   Rico   Store,    Madison   Ave.,    near   47th    St. 

Men's  Furnishing  Goods:  Samuel  Budd,  572  5th  Ave.,  149 
Broadway;  Guryan's  English  Shop,  292  sth  Ave.;  Kaskel  &  Kaskel, 
316  sth  Ave.;  Pinio.  Bros.,  63  W.  42d  St.,  713  and  858  Broadway; 
jr.  W.  Ryan,  Hotel  McAlpin  and  Pennsylvania  Terminal;  Triplet  & 
Co.,  35  E.  42d  St.;  Weber  &  Heilbroner,  sth  Ave.  and  42d  St..  241. 
345.    7S7f    1363    and    1505    Broadway,    a?    New    St.,    20    Cortlandt    St.; 


78  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

IV kite  &  White,  335  Broadway,  25  Cortlandt  St.,  49  Nassau  St.; 
Wolff's  Shirt  Shops,  317  Broadway,  139  Nassau  St.,  26  Cortlandt  St., 
no  Chambers  St.;  James  P.  Carey,  Grand  Central  Terminal..  See 
also  Tailors,  p.  79. 

Music  Publishers  and  Dealers:  Breitkopf  &  Hartel,'  22  W. 
38th  St.;  Ditson  &  do.:  8  E.  34th  St.;  Pond  &  Co.,  18  W.  37th  St.; 
Schirmer,  3  E.  43d  St.;  Novello,  Ewer  &  Co.,  2  W.  45th  St.;  Schuberth 
&  Co.,   II   E.  aad  St.;   Witmark  &  Sons,   144  W.  37th  St. 

Oriental  Goods:  Vantine's,  S.  W.  cor.  of  5th  Ave.  and  39th  St.; 
Yamanaka,  259  5th  Ave.;  Noorian,  255  sth  Ave.;  Banta,  261  5th  Ave.; 
Long  Sang  Ti  Chinese  Curio  Company,  323  5th  Ave.;  Oriental%Rugs: 
Donchian  &  Co.,  262  5th  Ave.;  Kent-Costikyan,  485  sth  Ave.;  Mum- 
ford,  2  E.  41st  St. — (in  China-town;  take  3d  Ave.  Elevated  to  Chatham 
Sq):  Wing  Tong  Fook,  5  Mott  St.;  Say  Kee  Company,  7-9  Mott  St.; 
Wing  On  Wo,  13  Mott  St.;  Quong  Sun  Chong,  30  Mott  St.;  Ching 
Chong  &  Co.    (Chinese   jewelry,  jade  a  specialty),   37   Mott   St. 

Opticians:  E.  B.  Meyrowits,  237  and  615  5th  Ave.;  Paul  A. 
Meyrowits,  389  and  539  sth  Ave.;  Gall  &  Lembke,  5  W.  42d  St.; 
GaNun  &  Parsons,  13  W.  4ad  St.,  M.  H.  Harris.  27  W.  34th  St., 
S4  E.  23d,  and  four  other  br&nches;  Yanss  Optical  Company,  3  E.  23d 
St.    (g^lasses  only). 

Photographers:  Bradley  Studios,  435  5th  Ave.;  Campbell  Studio, 
S38  5th  Ave.;  AimS  Dupont,  574  5th  Ave.;  Falk,  580  sth  Ave.;  Toyo  Kiku- 
<^'»*i  437  5th  Ave.;  and  159  W.  99th  St.;  Afarc^aw,  258  5th  Ave.;  Af«>*'feiii 
Studio,  467  sth  Ave.;  Pach,  570  5th  Ave.;  Sarony,  362  5th  Ave.;  White 
Studio.  1546  Broadway;  Pirie  McDonald,  $76  5th  Ave.;  Hollinger, 
582  sth  Ave.;  Kazanjian,  707  5th  Ave.;  The  Mtsses  Selby,  628  5th  Ave. 

Picture  Importers  and  Dealers:  American  Art  Galleries,  6 
E.  23d  St.;  Anderson  Galleries,  284  Madison  Ave.;  Arlington  Art 
Gallery,  274  Madison  Ave.;  Duveen  Brothers,  720  Fifth  Ave.;  Klein- 
berger  Galleries,  709  Fifth  Ave.;  D.  B.  Butler  &  Co.,  601  Madison 
Ave.;  Snedecor  &  Co.,  107  W.  46th  S4.;  Erich  Galleries,  707  5th  Ave.; 
Fifth  Avenue  Art  Galleries,  546  5th  Ave.;  Folsom  Galleries,  396  5th 
Ave.;  Goupil  and  Company  (of  Paris),  56  W.  46th  St.;  Keppel  &  Co., 
4  E.  39th  St.;  Knoedler  &  Co.,  556  5th  Ave.;  Montross  Gallery,  sso 
5th  Ave.;  Macbeth,  450  5th  Ave.;  Mu:rray  Hill  Art  Galleries,  17  E. 
31st  St.;  Strauss,  285   5th  Ave. 

Silver.  Jewelry.  Watches:  Formerly  all  silversmiths  and  jewe1e»-s 
were  in  Maiden  Lane,  where  some  of  the  silversmiths  still  remain. 
Later  Union  Square  became  the  popular  jewel  market.  Tiffany  &  Co. 
were  the  first  to  move  from  there  to  their  present  building  at  5th  Ave. 
and  37th  St.  in  1905.  The  large  firms  are  now  nearly  all  in  this 
neighborhood:  Black,  Starr  &  Frost,  594  5th  Ave.;  Carlton  &  Co., 
634  sth  Ave.;  Dreicer  &  Co.,  560  sth  Ave.;  Guttle  &  Co.,  634  5th  Ave.; 
Gorham  Co.,  5th  Ave.  and  36th  St.;  Gutmann,  303  5th  Ave.;  Howard 
&  Co.,  624  5th  Ave.;  Kirkpatrick  &  Co.,  624  5th  Ave.;  Kohn  &  Son. 
321  5th  Ave.;  Lebolt  &  Co.,  534  5th  Ave.,  Mrs.  Lynch's  Son,  Inc.,  229 
W.  42d  St.;  Marcus  &  Co.,  544  5th  Ave.;  Pickslay  &  Co.,  570  5th  Ave.; 
Reed  &  Barton,  318  5th  Ave.;  Theo.  B.  Starr,  576  sth  Ave.;  John 
Wells,  307  sth  Ave. 

Sporting  Goods:  Abercrombie  &  Fitch,  53  W.  36th  St.; 
Spalding,  126  Nassau  St.  (wholesale  and  retail),  523  jth  Ave.; 
Crooke.  1166  Broadway,  E.  side,  near  28th  St.  (fishing  tackle);  Van 
Lencerke,  200  sth  Ave.,  W.  side,  near  23d  St.  (guns);  Franklin  Simon, 
Sth  Ave.,  W.  side,  near  38th  St.    (women's  riding  habits). 

Stationers:  Dempsey  &  Carroll,  ^31  5th  Ave.;  Tiffany,  sth  Ave. 
and  37th  St.;  Gorham  Co.',  sth  Ave.  and  36th  St.;  Brentano's,  sth  Ave. 
and   27th   St    (these  are  the   leading  houses  for   high-class  stationery. 


SHOPS    AND    STORES  79 

wading  invitations,  etc.);  H.  K.  Brewer,  503  Sth  Ave.;  Mayfair,  657 
Sth  Ave.;  Tower  Novelty  Company  (commercial  stationery  and  novelties), 
18  E.  23d  St.,  main  store,  Broadway;  Dennison  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany, 5th  Ave.'  and  a6th  St.  (fancy  papers  for  decorative  purposes,  tags, 
labels  and  other  desk  conveniences). 

Tailors:  The  more  exclusive  men's  tailors  are  to  be  found  on  Fifth 
Ave.,  between  Madison  Sq.  and  50th  St.  Among  the  better  known  may 
he  mentioned  /.  W.  Bell,  Soi^  &  Co.,  437  Fifth  Ave.;  John  Patterson 
&  Co.,  10  E.  33d  St.;  Everall  Bros.,  463  Fifth  Ave.;  M,  Rock,  315  Fifth 
Ave.;  Wetzel,  2  E.  44th  St.;  Sandford  &  Sandford,  542  Fifth  Ave.  The 
leading  clothiers,  carrying  a  large  stock  of  ready-made  garments  are: 
Brooks  Brothers,  346  Madison  Ave.;  Brokaw  Brothers,  Broadway, 
near  42d  St.;  George  G.  Benjamin,  Broadway  and  34th  St.;  Rogers, 
Peet  Co.,  479  Fifth  Ave.,  1302  Broadway,  258  Broadway;  Browning, 
King  &  Co.,  Broadway,  near  32d  St.  All  these  houses  carry  a  full 
line  of  men's  furnishing  goods. 

Toys:  F.  A.  O.  Schwartz  &  Co.,  303  Fifth  Ave.;  Strauss  Toy  Shops 
Co.,  Inc.,  Grand  Central  Terminal,  Penn.  Sta.  Arcade,  and  Hudson 
Terminal  Concourse.  Mayfair,  655  Fifth  Ave.;  Maison  Josef,  The 
Children's  Shop,  8  E.  46th  St.  Also  in  the  chief  Department  Stores, 
especially  around  the  holidays. 

Trunks,  Traveling  Bags,  etc.  (See  also  Leather  Goods):  Catt- 
nach,  23  W.  45th  St.;  Cherry,  388  Fifth  Ave.;  Crouch  &  FitJtgerald, 
154  Fifth  Ave.,  177  Broadway,  14  W.  40th  St.;  Doyle  Bros.,  335  Fifth 
Ave.,  40  Cortlandt  St.;  Innovation  Trunk  Co.,  339  Fifth  Ave.;  Likly 
Luggage  Co.,  279  Fifth  Ave.;  Charles^ W.  Wolf,  340  Fifth  Ave.,  15 
Beaver  St.,   102  Nassau  St.,  22  Cortland  St. 

Umbrellas  and  Walking  Sticks:  Harrison,  353  Fifth  Ave.,  £. 
side,  near  34th  St.;  also  1140  Broadwav,  W.  side,  near  27th  St.;  Reid, 
294  Fifth  Ave.;  also  1476  Broadway,  E.  side,  near  42d  St. 

Women's  Clothing:  Franklin  Simon  &  Co.,  414  sth  Ave.;  Bonwit 
Teller  &  Co.,  sth  Ave.  and  38th  St.;  Arnold,  Constable  &  Co.,  5th 
Ave.  and  40th  St.  The  following  shops  carry  only  the  choicest  lines 
of  goods:  /.  M.  Gidding  &  Co.,  564  5th  Ave.:  L.  P.  Hollander  &  Co.. 
550  sth  Ave.;  Alice  Maynard,  546  sth  Ave.;  Samuel  Lorber,  1  E.  46th 
St.;  H.  Bendel,  Inc.,  10  W.  57th  St.;  Hickson  &  Co.,  661  5th  Ave; 
Bruck   Weiss  Millinery,  Inc.,  4  W.   S7th   S*. 

XVI.    Churches.    Religious  Services 

For  the  convenience  of  visitors  wishing  to  attend  service 
at  churches  of  their  own  denomination,  the  following  selected 
list  of  more  important  places  of  worship  is  given,  the  de- 
nominations being  classed  alphabetically. 

There  are  in  all  ahout  1400  churches  in  Greater  New  York,  in- 
clusive of  chapels  and  missions.  They  are  divided  between  the  separate 
borougfis  as  follows:  Manhattan,  s^7i  Bronx,  153;  Brooklyn,  S04; 
Queens,  161;  Richmond,  $7-  If  we  include  the  churches  within  easy 
reach  in  Jersey  City  and  Hoboken,  the  sum  total  is  1540,  a  number 
slightly  in  excess  of  London.  The  different  denominations  are  *  rep- 
resented as  follows,  in  the  order  of  their  numerical  importance:  Roman 
Catholic,  321;  Protestant  Episcopal,  213;  Lutheran,  170;  Methodist 
Episcopal,  157;  Presbyterian,  146;  Baptist,  125;  Reformed,  los;  Jewish, 
97;  Congregational,  57;  Christian  Scientists,  11;  Unitarian,  .g;  Universal- 
ist,  6;  Society  of  Friends,  5. 

The  usual  hours  at  which  services  are  held  are  11  A.  M.  and 
either  4  or  8  P.  M.  Announcements  of  services  at  many  of  the  lead- 
ing churches,  themes  of  the  sermons,  special  musical  programs,  etc., 
are  usually  to   be   found  in   the   Saturday   papers. 


8o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

I.  MANHATTAN 

Baptist:  Judson  Memorial  (p.  175),  Washington  Sq.  S.,  cor. 
Thompson  St. — Madison  Avenue,  cor.  Madison  Ave.  and  ^ist  St.;  Rev. 
Charles  A.  Eaton,  D.D.,  pastor. — Fifth  Avenue,  No.  8  W.  46th  St;. 
Rev.  Cornelius  Woelfkin,  pastor;  holds  union  services  with  Calvary 
Baptist  Church,  125  W.  57th  St. — First  Baptist,  Broadway  and  79th 
St. — Central  Baptist,  Amsterdam  Ave.  and  92a  St. — Hope,  104th  St.  and 
Broadway. 

Lutherans:  Holy  Trinity,  6sth  St.  and  Central  Pk.  W. — St. 
James,  Madison  Ave.  and  73d  St. — Adv,ent,  Broadway  and  93d  St. 

Methodist  Episcopal:  John  Street  (p.  132),  No.  44  John  St. — 
Washington  Square,  W.  4th  St.,  near  6th  Ave. — Metropolitan  Temple, 
No.  48  7th  Ave. — Madison  Avenue,  Madison  Ave.  and  60th  St. — 
Grace,  W.   104th  St.,  betw.  Columbus  and  Amsterdam  Aves. 

Moravian:      First,    Lexington   Ave.   and   30th    St. 

Christian  Scientists:  First  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist  (p.  243) t 
Central  Pk.  W.  and  96th  St. — Second  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist, 
Central  Pk.  W.  and  68th  St. 

Congregational:  Broadway  Tabernacle  (p.  173),  Broadway  and  56th 
St.;  Rev.  Charles  E.  Jefferson,  D.D.,  pastor. — Manhattan  Congrega- 
tional,  Broadway  and  76th   St. 

Society  of  Friends:  East  Fifteenth  Street,  Rutherford  PI.  and 
iSth  St. — Twentieth  Street  (orthodox),   144  E.   20th  St. 

Jewish:  Temple  Emanu-Bl  (p.  196),  sth  Ave.  and  43d  St.; 
Rev.  Joseph  Silverman,  rabbi. — Beth-El,  5th  Ave.  and  76th  St. — 
Shearith- Israel  (p.  243),  Central  Pk.  W.,  cor.  70th  St. — West  Side 
Synagogue  (Shaaray  Tefilla),  156  W.  82d  St. — Temple  Israel  of  Har- 
lem, Lenox  Ave.  and  120th  St. — Free  Synagogue,  Synagogue  House,  36 
W.  68th  St.;  Stephen  S.  Wise,  rabbi;  Sunday  services  11  A.  M.,  at 
Carnegie  Hall;   Friday  evening,  at  8.15;   Clinton  Hall,   151    Clinton  St. 

Presbyterian:  Fifth  Avenue  (p.  204),  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  55th  St.; 
Rev.  John  Henry  Jowett,  D.D.,  pastor.  Madison  Square  Presbyterian 
(p.  206),  Madison  Sq.,  cor.  24th  St.;  Rev.  Charles  H.  Parkhurst,  D.D., 
pastor.  Old  First  (p.  178),  Fifth  Ave.  and  nth  St.;  Rev.  Howard 
Duffield,  D.D.,  pastor.  Brick  (p.  184),  Fifth  Ave.  and  37th  St.;  Rev. 
William  Pierson  Miller,  D.D.,  pastor.  Central,  '212  W.  57th  St.  Good 
Shepherd,  152  W.  66th  St.  Madison  Avenue,  Madison  Ave.,  cor  73d 
St.  Rutgers,  Broadway  and  73d  St.  West  End  Presbyterian,  Amster- 
dam Ave.  and  104th  St.  Park  Avenue  Presbvterian.  Park  Ave.  and 
85th  St.  West  Park,  Amsterdam  Ave.  anH  86th'  St.  Fourth,  W^est  End 
Ave.  and  9rst  St.  Scotch  Presbyterian,  Central  Park  W.  and  96th  St. 
University  Place,  loth  St.  and  University  «P1.  Greenwich,  145  W. 
13th  St. 

Protestant  Episcopal.:  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine  (p. 
257),  Morningside  Heights  and  113th  St.;  Rt.  Rev.  David 
Hummell  Greer,  D.D.,  Bishop  of  New  York.  Sunday  services:  8  a.  m,; 
Holy  Communion,  11  a.  m.;  first  and  third  Sundays,  Holy  Communion 
and  sermon,  second  and  fourth   Sundays,  morning  prayer  and  sermon; 

4  p.  m.,  evensong  and   sermon.     Weekday  services:   7.30  a.   m.,   12  m., 

5  p.  m.  Trinity,  Broadway,  opposite  Wall  St.  (PI.  II — B4;  p.  132), 
Rev.  William  T.  Manning,  D.D.,  rector;  Services:  Sundays,  8,  10.15, 
II  a.  m.,  3.30,  8  p.  m.;  weekdays,  7.30,  9  a.  m.,  3  p.  m.  Special  mid- 
day service  daily  (except  Saturdays).  The  following  are  chapels  of 
Trinity  Parish:  i.  5"*.  Paul's  Chapel  (PI.  II— B2;  p.  137),  Broadway 
and  Fulton  St.;  Rev.  .William  Montague  Oer,  rector;  Sunday  services: 
2.30  a.  m.  (for  night-workers),  8,  10.30  a.  m.,  8  p.  m.;  daily  midday 
services:  12.05  and  1.05  p.  m.;  2.  St.  Luke's  Chapel,  483  Hudson  St.; 
Sunday  services:  8,  9.15,  n  a.  m.,  8  p.  m.;  3.     St.  Augustine's  Chapel 


CHURCHES.     RELIGIOUS   SERVICE  8i 

(p.  152),  105  E.  Houston  St.;  Sunday  services:  7.30,  10.30  a.  m., 
8  p.  m.;  4.  Trinity  Chapel,  15  W.  25th  St.;  5.  St.  Chrysostom's  Chapel, 
Seventh  Ave.  and  39th  St.;  6.  St.  Agnes'  Chapel,  gad  St.  W.  of  Colum- 
bus Ave.;  7.  Chapel  of  the  Intercession  (p.  345) »  I55th  St.  and 
Broadway;  Sunday  services:  8.45,  9.45>  10.30  a.  m.,  4,  8  p.  m.  Grace 
Church  (p.  155),  Broadway  and  loth  St.;  Rev.  Charles  Lewis  Slat- 
tery,  rector;  Sunday  services:  8  and  11  a.  m. ;  June  to  October,  8 
p.  m.  St.  George  (p.  224),  Stuyvesant  Sq.  and  i6th  St.;  Sunday 
services:  8,  11  a.  m.,  3.15  and  8  p.  m.  St.  Mark's  in  the  Bouwerie 
(P-  ^57h  Second  Ave.  and  loth  St.;  Rev.  William  Norman  Guthrie, 
rector;  Sunday  services,  8  and  11  a.  m.,  8  p.  m.  .9^  Bartholomew's 
(p.  213),  Madison  Ave.  and  44th  St.;  Rev.  Leighton  Parks,  D.D., 
rector;  Sunday  services:  Hol^  Communion,  8  a.  m.  and  first  Sunday 
in  the  month,  11  a.  m. ;  morning  prayer  and  sermon,  11  a.  m. ;  evening 
prayer,  8  p.  m.  Heavenly  Rest,  551  Fifth  Ave.,  near  45th  St.  St. 
Thomas  (p.  203),  Fifth  Ave.  and  53d  St.;  Rev.  Ernest  M.  Stires, 
D.D.,  rector;  Sunday  services:  8  and  11  a.  m.,  4  p.  m.;  Wednesday  and 
Friday,  10  a.  m.  Zion  and  St.  Timothy,  332  W.  57th  St.  St.  James, 
Madison  Ave.  and  71st  St.;  Rt.  Rev.  Frederick  Courtney,  D.D.,  rector. 
St.  Ignatius,  West  End  Ave.  and  87th  St.  St.  Michaels',  Amsterdam 
Ave.  and  99th  St.;  Sunday  .services:  7.30,  8  and  11  a.  m.,  4  and  8  p.  m. 
Reformed:  First  Collegiate  (Middle),  Second  Ave.  and  7th  St. 
Second  Collegiate  (Marble),  Fifth  Ave.  and  29th  St.  (p.  181); 
Rc^.  David  James  Burrell,  D.D.,  minister.  Third  ColleguUe  (St. 
Nicholas),  Fifth  Ave.  and  48th  St.  (p.  198);  Rev.  Malcolm  James 
MacLeod,  D.D.,  minister.  Fourth  Collegiate  (West  End),  West  End 
Ave.  and  77th  St.;  Sunday  services:  11  a.  m.  and  4.30  p.  m.  Madison 
Avenue,  Madison  Ave.  and  57th  St.  Hamilton  Grange,  Convent  Ave. 
and  W.  149th  St«     Harlem,  Lenox  Ave.  and  123d  St. 

Reformed   Episcopal:     First,    Madison   Ave.   and   ssth   St. 

Roman  Catholic:  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  (PI.  IV — Ei;  p.  199), 
Fifth  Ave.  and  soth  St.;  His  Eminence,  John  M.,  Cardinal  Farley;  Holy 
Mass:  Sundays,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10  and  11  a.  m. ;  Vespers,  4  p.  m.  St.  Paul 
the  Apostle  (Paulist  Fathers)  Columbus  Ave.  and  S9th  St.  (p.  233) ; 
Very  Rev.  John  J.  Hughes,  C.S.P.  St,  Francis  Xavier,  46-48  W.  16th 
St.  St.  Leo,  II  E.  26th  St.  St.  Patrick  (Old  Cathedral),  Mott,  Prince 
and  Mulberry  Sts.  (p.  152).  Blessed  Sacrament,  148-66  W.  71st,  cor. 
Broadway.  Holy  Innocents,  126  W.  37th  St.  Holy  Name,  N.  W.  cor. 
Amsterdam  Ave.  and  90th  St.  St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  139  W.  31st  St. 
5"*.  Gregory  the  Great,  W.  90th  St.,  near  Columbus  Ave.  St.  Stephen, 
149  E.  28th  St.  5"*.  Vincent  Ferrer,  S.  E.  cor.  Lexington  Ave.  and 
66th  St.     St.  Malachy,  239  W.  49th  St. 

Unitarian:  All  Souls'  (p.  215),  Fourth  Ave.  and  20th  St. 
Messiah,  61   E.  34th  St.;   Rev.  John  Haynes  Holmes,  pastor. 

United  Presbyterians:  First,  Central  Park  W.  and  io8th  St. 
Second,  123  W.  12th  St. 

Universalist:  Diving  Paternity  (Fourth),  Central  Park  W.  and 
76th  St. 

Miscellaneous:  Bowery  Mission,  227  Bowery;  Gospel  meetings 
every  evening,  and  11.30  on  Sundays.  Broome  Street  Tabernacle,  295 
Broome  St.;  Sunday  services:  s  p.  m.  (Italian),  8  p.  m.  (English. 
Church  of  the  Strangers  (Interdenominational),  309  W.  57th  St. 
Five  Points  Mission,  62  Park  St.  Labor  Temple  (Institutional  Church), 
E.  14th  St.,  at  Second  Ave.  McAuley's  Cremorne  Mission,  216  W. 
3Sth  St.  New  Thought  Church,  no  W.  34th  St.  Salvation  Army,  Head- 
quarters, 220-230  W.  14th  St.;  Gospel  services  held  nightly  on  the 
streets  and  in  25  halls.  Society  for  Ethical  Culture,  Central  Park  W., 
cor.  64th  St.;  Sunday  services:  ii  a.  m.  Vedanta  Society,  135  W. 
80th  St. 


82  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

2.— BROOKLYN 

Baptist:  Baptist  Temple,  Third  Ave.,  cor  Schermerhorn  St. 
Emmanuel,  Lafayette  Ave.,  cor.    St.   James  PI. 

Christian  Scientist:  First  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist,  New  York 
Ave.,  cor.  Dean  St. 

Congregational:  Plymouth  (PI.  XIII — A3;  p.  407),  Orange  St. 
near  Hicks;  formerly  Henry  Ward  Beecher's  church.  Present  pastor, 
Rev.  Newell  Dwight  Hilli^,  D.D.  Church  of  the  Pilgrims  (PI.  XIII— 
B4),  cor.  Remsen  and  Henry  Sts.    South,  cor.  Court  and  Presidents  Sts. 

Society  of  Friends:  Friends,  'no  Schermerhorn  St.  Frisnds 
(Orthodox),  cor.  Lafayette  and  Washington  Aves. 

Jewish:  Temple  Israel,  Bedford  and  Lafayette  Aves. 

Lutheran:   St.  Peter's,   Bedford  Ave.,   near  De  Kalb  Ave.' 

Methodist  Episcopal:  First  (Sands  Street  Memorial),  Henry  and 
Clark  Sts.  Hanson  Place,  Hanson  PI.,  cor.  St.  Felix  St.  New  York 
Avenue,  New  York  Ave.,  Dean  and   Bergen   Sts. 

Presbyterian:  First,  Henry  St.,  near  Clark  St.  Spencer  Memorial, 
Remsen  St.,  cor.  Clinton,  Lafayette  Avenue  (PI.  XIII — D2),  Lafayette 
Ave.  and  South  Oxford  St.     Westminster,  Clinton  S*.,  cor.  First  PI. 

Protestant  Episcopal:  Holy  Trinity  (PI.  XIII — B4;  p.  415), 
Clinton  St.  cor.  Montague  St.;  Rev.  J.  H.  Melish,  rector.  Grace 
(p.  411),  Hicks  St.  and  Grace  Ct.  St.  Ann's  (p.  413),  cor.  Clinton  and 
Livingston  Sts.  St.  Paul's,  cor.  Clinton  and  Carroll  Sts.  St.  Bartholo- 
mew's,  Pacific    St.,   near   Bedford   Ave. 

Reformed:  First,  Seventh  Ave.  and  Carroll  St.  Reformed  Church 
on  the  Heights,  Pierrepqnt  St.,  near  Henry  St. 

Reformed  Episcopal:  Reconciliation,  Nostrand  and  Jefferson  Aves. 

Swedenborgian:  Church  of  New  Jerusalem,  Monroe  PI.  and  Clark 
St. 

Roman  Catholic:  St.  James  (Pro-Cathedral),  cor.  Jay  and  Chapel 
St.  (p.  401).  St.  Paul's  (PI.  XIII — C4),  cor.  Court  and  Congress  S^s. 
Queen  of  All  Saints,  cor.  Lafayette  and  Vanderbilt  Aves.  (p.  438). 
St.  Francis  Xavier,  cor.  Sixth  Ave.  and  Carroll  St.  St.  Agnes,  co'r. 
Hoyt  and  Sackett  Sts.  St.  Joseph,  Pacific  St.  and  Vanderbilt  Ave.  St. 
Augustine,  6th  Ave.  and  Sterling  PI.   (p.  421). 

Unitarian:  Church  of  the  Savior,  cor.  Pierrepont  St.  and  Mon- 
roe PI. 

Universalist:      All  Sjonls',   Ocean  and  Ditmas  Aves. 

3.-— FOREIGN  CHURCHES 

« 

As  a  consequence  of  the  almost  unparalleled  polyglot  population  of 
New  York,  it  is  possible  for  visitors  from  a  score  of  different  countries 
to  hear  divine  service  conducted  in  their  native  language.  A  selection 
of  the,  foreign  churphes  in  Manhattan  is  here  given.  It  should  be  re- 
membered, however,  that  there  is  quite  as  varied  an  assortment  in 
Brooklyn,  and  that  Jersey  City  has  several  important  German  churches 
and  an  assortment  of  Russian,  Polish  and  other  Slav  places  of  worship 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  big  sugar  refineries. 

Armenian:  Armenian  Evangelical  (Congregational),  services  held 
in  Adams  Memorial  Presbyterian  Church,  207  E.  30th  St.  Armenian 
services  (P.  E.)  in  St.  Bartholomew's  Chapel,  Sundays,  4.30  p.  m. 

Bohemian:  John  Hus  (Presbyterian),  247  E.  74th  St.  Our  Lady 
of  Perpetual  Help   (R.   C),  323   E.   6ist   St. 


CHURCHES.     RELIGIOUS   SERVICE  83 

Chinese:  FWst  Chinese  Presbyterian,  223  E.  31st  St. 

French:  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (R.  C),  127  W.  23d  St.  French 
Evangelical  (Presbyterian),  126  W.  i6th  St.  Saint-Esprit  (P.  E.),  47 
E.  27th  St.  Notre  Dame  de  Lourdes  (R.  C).  Morningside  Ave.  and 
114th  St. 

German:  F^^  German  (Bapt.),  334  E.  14th  St.  German  Em- 
manuel (Bapt.),  411  E.  7Sth  St.  St.  Peter's  (Lutheran),  631  Lexing- 
ton Ave.  St.  Luke's  (Lutheran),  233  W.  42d  St.  Washington  Heights 
(Lutheran),  Broadway  and  153d  St.  St.  Paul's  (M.  E.),  308  E.  55th 
St.  First  German  Methodist  Episcopal,  48  St.  Mark's  PI.  Sixty- 
Eighth  Street  German  Reformed,  355  E.  68th  St.  German  Evangelical 
Reformed  Ave.  B  and  5th  St.  St.  John  the  Baptist  (R.  C),  209  W. 
30th  St.     Most  Holy  Redeemer  (R.  C),  165  E.  3d  St. 

Hungarian:  Fourteenth  Street  (Presby.),  244  E.  14th  St.  Hun- 
garian Reformed,  121  E.  7th  St.  First  Magyar  (Presby.),  233  E.  ii6th 
St. 

Italian:  Calvary  Chapel  (P.  E.),  346  E.  23d  St.  San  Salvatore 
(P.  E.),  359  Broome  St,  First  Italian  Baptist,  1  Henry  St.  Most 
Precious  Blood  (R.  C),  113  Baxter  St.  St.  Ann's  (R.  C),  308  E. 
iioth    St. 

Japanese:     Japanese  Mission  (undenominational),  330  E.  57th  St. 

Polish:  St.  Clemens  (R.  C),  552  W.  50th  St.  5"*.  Stanislas 
(R.  C),  I  Of  7th  St. 

Russian:  Orthodox  Cathedral  of  St.  Nicholas  (Greek  Cath.). 
15-21   E.  97th  St. 

Ruthenian  Greek:  5"^  George's  (R.  C),  332  E.  20th  St. 

Slovak:    St.  John  of  Nepomuk  (R.  C),  350-54  E.  67th  St. 

Spanish:  Our  Lady  of  Guadelupe  (R.  C),  229  W.  14th  St. 
Spanish  Evangelical  Church  (Presby.)  in  Chapel  of  Madison  Square 
Presbyterian  Church.  Madison  Sq.  and  224th  St.  Our  Lady  of  Hope 
(R.  C),  1 5 7th  St.,  W.  of  Broadway. 

Swedish:  First  Swedish  (Bapt.),  141  E.  55  th  St.  Swedish 
Bethesda  (Cong.),  138  E.  soth  St.  Gustavus  Adolphus  (Luth.),  151 
E.'  22d  St.     Swedish  Methodist  Episcopal,  Lexington  Ave.  and   52d  St. 

Syrian:  5"^  Joseph's  Maronite  Chapel  (R.   C),  46  Washington  St. 

Among  the  chief  churches  for  Colored  Persons  are  5"*.  Benedict  the 
Moor's  (R.  C),  Eighth  ave.,  cor.  of  W.  ';3rd  st.;  St.  Cyprian's  Chapel 
(£piscoi)al),  171  W.  63rd  St.;  St.  James^  (Presbyterian),  357  W.  51st  st.; 
Abys^nian,  242  W.  40th  St.;  and  tbe  Methodist  Episcopal  Churches  of 
St,  Mark's  (231  W.  53rd  St.),  and  Bethel  (233  W.  2Sth  st.). 

The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  of  New  York 
City  was  organized  in  1852  and  incorporated  in  1866  for  the 
physical,  mental,  social  and  spiritual  improvement  of  young 
men  and  boys.  27  of  the  40  branches  have  buildings  costing 
a  total  of  oyer  $5,000,000.  Among  the  activities  provided  in 
these  Associations  are  gymnasiums,  swimming  pools,  hand- 
ball courts,  athletic  grounds,  summer  camps,  educational 
classes,  libraries,  reading  rooms,  billiard  rooms,  bowling 
alleys,  social  rooms,  restaurants,  dormitories,  and  social  and 
religious  gatherings.  There  are  over  2000  dormitory  rooms; 
26  gymnasiums  with  an  enrollment  of  16,995 ;  14,224  students 
in  educational  classes  at  an  annual  expense,  of  $118,285  or 


84  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

over  $8.00  per  student;  an  annual  totaj  at  religious  meetings 
of  over  half  a  million;  an  average  daily  attendance  at  these 
Association  buildings  of  15,467;  and  a  total  membership  of 
32,933.  The  organization  is  supported  by  voluntary  contribu- 
tions, membership  fees,  and  rents.  Membership  dues  are 
about  $12.00  per  annum  in  the  city  branches,  which  can  be 
paid  in  installments.  The  New  York  Y.  M.  C.  A,  will  extend 
privileges  to  those  holding  membership  tickets  of  out-of-town 
Assocfations  and  is  always  glad  to  have  such  men  visit  any  of 
the  local  branches.  Several  of  the  branches  have  transient 
rooms  maintained  exclusively  for  the  benefit  of  visitors  to 
the  metropolis,  and  any  branch  secretary  will  gladly  direct 
any  young  man,  whether  a  member  or  not,  to  a  clean 
moderate-priced  rooming  house,  or  give  him  any  other  infor- 
mation he  may  desire.  Any  young  man  18  years  of  age  or 
over  and  of  good  moral  character  can  join  by  presenting  him- 
self at  the  office  of  any  branch,  and  paying  the  annual  dues. 
Most  branches  have  a  boy's  division  for  boys  12  to  18  years 
of  age,  with  much  lower  fees.  Most  of  the  branches  also 
maintain  an  Employment  Department  in  which  they  help  men 
to  secure  desirable  positions. 

The  Twenty-third  Street  Branch  was  the  first  Association  to  have 
what  is  considered  a  building  of  the  modern  type.  The  Railroad  Branch 
Building  near  the  Grand  Central  Terminal  cost  $1,000,000  and  is 
the  largest  railroad  Association  building.  Central  Branch  Building  in 
Brooklyn  cost  $1,700,000,  and  is  the  largest  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building  in 
the  world.  The  New  York  city  branches  are  Bowery  Branch,  8  East 
3d  St.;  Bronx  Union,  470  East  i6ist  st. ;  East  Side,  153  East  86th  st. ; 
French,  109  West  54th  st.;  Harlem,  5  West  125th  st.;  Italian  Work, 
322  East  1 1 6th  St.;  23d  Street,  215  West  23d  st.;  Washington  Heights, 
531  West  issth  St.;  West  Side,  318  West  S7th  st.;  Young  Men's  In- 
stitute, 222  Bowery;  Grand  Central  Railroad  Terminal,  309  Park  ave. ; 
Mott  Haven  Railroad,  East  isoth  st.  and  Spencer  pi.;  West  72d  Street 
Railroad,  Foot  of  West  72d  st. ;  West  Shore  Railroad,  Near  Durham, 
N.  J.;  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  8th  ave.  and  32d  St.;  Fort  Jay  Army, 
Governor's  Island;  Fort  Slocum  Army,  New  Rochelle;  Fort  Wadsworth, 
Staten  Island;  Columbia  University  Student,  Earl  Hall,  Columbia  Uni- 
versity; College  of  City  of  New  York  Student,  139th  st.  and  St. 
Nicholas  Terrace;  New  York  University  Student,  University  Heights; 
Student  Club,  129  Lexington  ave.;  Physician  and  Surgeon's  Club,  346 
West  S7th  St.;  Colored  Men's,  252  West  53d  st.  The  branches  in 
Brooklyn  are  Bedford  (menX*  1121  Bedford  ave.;  Central,  55  Hanson 
Place;  Eastern  District,  179  Marcy  ave.;  Greenpoint,  99  Meserole  ave.; 
Prospect  Park,  357  Ninth  st. ;  26th  Ward,  142  Pennsylvania  ave.;  Rail- 
road, 47  Borden  ave.  (Long  Islana  City) ;  .Army  Branches,  one  at  Fort 
Hamilton  and  one  at  Fort  Totten;  Navy  Branch,  167  Sands  st.;  Indus- 
trial Branch  at  Bush  Terminal;  and  Colored  Men's,  405  Carleton  ave. 

The  offices  of  the  New  York  State  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Executive  Com- 
mittee are  in  the  23d  Street  Branch,  and  the  offices  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
International  Committee,  which  has  general  supervision  of  the  Associa- 
tion movement  in  North  America,  are  at  124  East  28th   Street. 


LIBRARIES  AND  READING  ROOMS  85 

XVII.     Libraries  and  Reading  Rooms 

Greater  New  York  contains  about  350  libraries,  more  or 
less  public.  Important  among  them  are  the  New  York  Public 
Library  (Astor,  Lenox  and  Tilden  Foundations),  wih  central 
building  at  476  Fifth  ave.,  and  43  branches  (free,  9  a.  m.-io 
p.  m.)  (p.  iwS)  ;  Brooklyn  Public  Library,  29  branches  (free, 
9  a.  m.-9  p.  m.)  (p.  416)  ;  Queens  Borough  Public  Library, 
20  branches  (9  a.  m.-9  p.  m.)  ;  Academy  of  Medicine  Library, 
V7  W.  43d  St.  (ref.  free,  cir.  for  members,  medical,  89,000  v., 
20,000  pmps.,  10  a.  m.-io  p.  m.) ;  American  Geographical 
Society  Library,  156th  st.  near  Broadway  (for  members, 
geographical,  50,000  v.,  60,000  maps,  10  a.  m.-5  p.  m.)  (p.  346)  ; 
American  Institute  Library,  19  W.  44th  st.  (visiting  card 
sufficient  introduction,  agricultural  and  industrial,  10,000  v., 
9  a.  m.-6  p.  m.)  ;  American  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
Columbus  ave.  and  77th  st.  (ref.  free,  natural  history,  63,000 
v.,  9  a.  m.-5  p.  m.,  Sat.  to  i  p.  m.)  (p.  300) ;  Library  of  Ameri- 
can Society  of  Civil  Engineers,  220  W.  57th  st.  (ref.  free, 
engineering,  12,000  v.,  20,500  pmps.,  9  a.  m.-io  p.  m.)  ;  Library 
of  Bar  Association  of  Nezv  York,  42  W.  44th  st.  (members 
only,  law,  110,000  v.,  8  a.  m.-i2  midnight)  (p.  198)  ;  Bryson 
Library,  Teachers'  College,  525  W.  120th  st.  (for  college, 
educational,  56,000  v.,  8:30  a.  m.-io  p.  m.)  (p.  275)  ;  Children's 
Museum  Library,  185  Brooklyn  ave.,  Bedford  Park,  Brooklyn 
(natural  history,  1200 v.,  also  models,  9  a.m.  to  5p.m.)  (p. 
436)  ;  Library  of  College  of  the  City  of  New  York,  139th  st. 
and  St.  Nicholas  Terrace  (free  for  college  and  for  public 
school  teachers,  43,000  v.,  8 130  a.  m.-4  p.  m..  Sat.  9 130  a.  m.- 

12  m.)  (p.  ^344);  Columbia  University  Library,  Morningside 
Heights  (ref.  and  cir.  for  university,  ref.  to  others  with 
introduction,  475»ooo  v.,  40,000  pmps.,  30,000  Gernjan  disserta- 
tions, 8:30  a.  m.-ii  p.  m.)  (p.  265);  Cooper  Union  Library, 
Cooper  square  (free,  37,000  v.,  8  a.  m.-io  p.  m.)  (p.  154)  ; 
Library  of  Hispanic  Society  of  America,  156th  st.  near  Broad- 
way (Hispanic  languages,  75,ooo  v.,  10  a.  m.-5  p.  m.)  (p.  346) ; 
Law  Institute  Library,  Post  Office,  rooms  1 16-122,  4th  floor 
(members  only,  law,  60,000  v.,  9  a.  m.-io  p.  m.)  ;  Mechanics' 
Institute  Library,  16-24  W.  44th  st.  (privilege  secured  on 
application,  110,000  v.,  9  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m.)  ;  Mercantile  Library, 

13  Astor  place  (subscribers  only,  265,000  v.,  8:30  a.  m.-6  p.  m.) 
(p.  •153)  ;  Library  of  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art,  Central 
Park  at  85th  st.  (free,  art,  7000  v.,  30,000  photographs,  10 
a.  m.-5  p.  m.)  (p.  311)  ;  New  York  Historical  Society  Library, 
170  Central  Park  West  (members  and  their  friends,  American 
history,  120,000  v.,  120,000  pmps.,  9  a.  m.-6  p.  m.)    (p.  244) ; 


86  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

New  York  Society  Library,  109  University  pi.  (open,  free, 
daily  except  Sundays,  100,000  v.,  9  a.  m.-6  p.  m.)  (p.  179)  ; 
New  Yofrk  University  Library  (general,  University  Heights, 
for  university,  40,000  v.,  10,000  pmps.,  9  a.  m.-5  p.  m. ;  Law 
School,  100  Washington  sq.  East,  ref.  for  school,  9  a.  m.-ii 
p.  m..  Sat.  to  9  p.  m.)  ;  Pratt  Institute  Library,  215  Ryerson  st, 
Brooklyn  (free,  105,000  v.,  Q  a.  01.-9:30  p.  m.)  (p.  430); 
Russell  Sage  Foundation  Library,  130  E.  22d  st.  (free  on  pre- 
sentation of  credentials,  social  sciences,  10,000  v.,  15,000  pmps. 
8:4s  a.  m.-5  p.  m.,  Mon.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.  to  10  p.  m.)  (p. 
221 )  ;  United  Engineering  Societies  Library^  29  W.  39th  st. 
(ref.  for  members,  engineering,  55,000  v.,  9  a.  m.-io  p.  m.)  ; 
Brooklyn  Museum  Library,  Eastern  Parkway  and  Washing- 
ton St.  (free,  open  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.,  21,600  v.,  Art,  History 
and  Ethnology)  (p.  427) ;  Brooklyn  Law  Library,  Room  29, 
Court  House  (open  8.45  a.  m.  to  11  p.  m. ;  from  June  15th 
to  Sept.  1st,  from  i  to  5.30  p.  m.;  it  contains  over  40,000 
volumes)  ;  Long  Island  Historical  Society  Library,  cor.  of 
Clinton  and  Pierrepont  sts.  (81,762  v.;  ref.  for  members  and 
those  introduced  by  members;  a  temporary  card  may  be  ob- 
tained through  the  Public  Library ;  open  8.30  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m., 
Mon.  and  Thurs.  to  9  p.  m)  (p.  416)  ;  Library  of  the  Medical 
Society  of  the  County  of  Kings,  1313  Bedford  ave.  (free, 
70,000  v.,  29,000  pflets.,  open  8.30  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.)  ^Library 
of  the  New  York  Geographical  and  Biographical  Society,  226 
W.  58th  St.  (18,000  v.,  free  to  members;  open  weekdays,  10 
a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.;  Mondays,  8  to  10  p.  m.)  ;  Union  Theological 
Library,  Broadway  and  120th  st.  (ref.  free.  circ.  for  semin- 
ary, theology,  80,000  v.,  30,000  pmps.,  9  a.  m.-io  p.  m.)  (p. 
256).  Other  theological  collections  will  be  found  in  the 
libraries  of  the  General  Theological  Seminary,  175  Ninth 
ave.;  Fordham  University,  Fordham;  the  Jewish  Theological 
Seminary,  531  W.  123d  st. ;  and  the  College  of  St.  Francis 
Xayier,  30  W.  i6th  st.  The  Y.  M.  C.  A.  and  Y.  W.  C.  A. 
maintain  reading  rooms  in  their  various  branches  throughout 
the  city. 

XVIII.     Newspapers  and  Magazines 

Newspapers  and  Periodicals.  New  York  is  the  chief 
periodical  publication  center  of  the  United  States,  if  not  in 
the  world,  printing  and  publishing  ranking  sixth  among*  the 
City's  industries  in  value  of  product.  The  periodicals  in  New 
York  embrace  about  64  daily  newspapers,  266  weekly  papers 
and  periodicals,  460  monthly  journals  and  magazines,  and  98 
periodicals  issued  at  other  intervals.     Of  the  periodicals  no 


NEWSPAPERS    AND    MAGAZINES  87 

less  than  sixty  are  published  in  foreign  languages,  a  polyglot 
output  probably  equaled  by  no  city  on  earth.  Daily  news- 
papers are  published  in  German,  French,  Italian,  Hungarian, 
Slovenian,  Bohemian,  Croatian,  Servian,  Arabic,  Yiddish, 
and  Greek. 

Among  the  chief  morning  papers  in  circulation-  are  the 
Herald  (ic,  independent,  strong  on  "Society  News,**  shipping 
and  continental  news).  Times,  (ic,  independent,  a  model 
newspaper,  widely  read  by  business  and  professional  men) 
the  Tribune  (ic,  Republican,  founded  by  Horace  Greeley), 
the  World  '(ic,  independent  democratic,,  founded  by  Joseph 
Pulitzer  and  has  perhaps  the  most  comprehensive  editorial 
organization  of  any  of  the  papers)  the  Sun  (i  c,  independent, 
noted  for  its  clever  and  cuttingly  sarcastic  editorials)  the 
American  (ic,  independent,  owned  by  Wiliam  Randolph 
Hearst,  one  of  the  chief  representatives  of  American  yellow 
journalism,  has  an  immense  circulation  among  the  lower 
classes.)  The  principal  evening  publications  are  the  Evening 
Post  (3c.,  an  excellent  independent  paper,  with  a  high-class 
clientele),  The  Mail  and  Globe  (each  ic.  Republican  papers), 
the  evening  editions  of  the  Sun  and  the  World  and  the 
Evening  Telegram  (the  evening  edition  of  the  Herald),  and 
the  Evening  Journal  (the  evening  edition  of  the  American), 
all  IC  each. 

The  chief  German  daily  is  the  Staats-Zeitung  (3c,  independent  and 
excellently  edited);  French:  Le  Courrier  des  Etats-Unis;  Italian:  // 
Progresso  Italo-Americano ;  Greek:  Atlantis;  Hungarian:  Amerikai 
Magyar  Nepsaava;  Yiddish:    Vorwarts, 

Newspapers  from  other  cities  may  be  bought  at  1328  Broadway,  at 
the  comer  of  6th  ave.  and  42d  St.,  and  at  several  other  points  in  the 
hotel  and  theatre  district. 

For  the  foreign  traveler  in  New  York,  a  note  on  the  periodical 
publications  of  the  United  States  will  be  useful.  Most  of  the  daily 
papers  publish  voluminous  illustrated  Sunday  morning  editions,  5c. 
each.  Among  the  New  York  weeklies  are  the  Nation,  Outlook,  In- 
dependent and  Literary  Digest  (each  high-class  review  journals  at 
loc.  each).  New  Republic,  with  a  strong  feminist  and  radical  trend, 
and  Collier's,  noted  for  its  illustrations  and  fiction.  Life  is  the  best- 
known  and  most  typically  American  of  the  humorous  journals.  The 
principal  others  are  Puck  and  Judge,  Among  the  important  monthly 
magazines  are  the  trio,  Century,  Harper's  and  Scribner's,  higher 
priced  literary  magazines  of  established  excellence.  McC lure's,  Ameri- 
can and  Everybody'Si^  cheaper,  but  little  below  in  matter.  Mention 
should  be  made  also  of  the  North  American  Review,  conservative, 
the  Forum,  radical,  the  World's  Work  and  System,  both  excellent  busi- 
ness periodicals,  the  former  particularly  noteworthy  for  its_  illustrations. 
Also  the  Review  of  Reviews.  Country  Life  in  America  is  the  princi- 
pal country  life  periodical  and  The  Ladies  Home  Journal  (i>ub.  in 
Philadelphia),  Woman's  Home  Companion  and  Good  Housekeeping  the 
three  chief  women's  journals. 


88  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

A  few  publications  of  the  first  rank  are  published  outside  of  New 
York  City,  but  only  a  few.  Among  them  however  should  be  men- 
tioned the  Atlantic  Monthly,  published  in  Boston,  an  unbiased  literary 
magazine  of  the  first  order,  and  the  publications  of  the  Curtis  Publish- 
ing Company  of  Philadelphia,  chief  of  which  is  the  Saturday  Evening 
Post,  a  5c  weekly  with  nearly  2,000,000  circulation,  excellently  edited. 

XIX.     Physicians.  Dentists.  Hospitals 

Physicians.  Strangers  in  New  York  who  chance  to  need 
medical  attention  will  find  that  practically  all  first  class  hotels 
have  one  or  more  resident  physicians  of  recognized  com- 
petence. It  is  well  however  for  travelers,  especially  if  they  do 
not  intend  to  stay  at  hotels,  to  obtain  the  name  of  one  or 
more  reliable  physicians  from  some  New  York  friend  or  from 
their  banker,  or  in  the  case  of  foreigners,  from  their  consul. 
In  case  of  emergency  the  addresses  of  some  of  the  riear-by 
practitioners  can  be  obtained  at  any  drug-store.  Trained 
nurses,  when  required,  will  usually  be  secured  by  the  physician 
in  attendance. 

Dentists.  The  same  remarks  apply  in  a  general  way  to 
dentists.  A  personal  recommendation  almost  always  results 
in  better  satisfaction.  Lists  of  both  dentists  and  physicians 
are  to  be  found  in  the  Classified  Telephone  Directory  (the  so- 
called  "Telephone  Red  Book"),  from  which  it  is  easy  to  pick 
out  those  in  any  given  neighborhood;  but  of  course  there  is 
nothing  to  indicate  their  relative  merit. 

• 

Hospitals.  There  are  in  Greater  New  York  more  than 
seventy  general  hospitals,  and  almost  as  many  special  hos- 
pitals, inclusive  of  the  contagious  wards  at  the  foot  of  East 
i6th  St.,  and  the  various  municipal  hospitals  on  the  islands 
in  upper  East  River.  The  following  is  a  selected  list  of  the 
more  important  institutions. 

a.    General  Hospitals 

Bellevue  Hospital  (181 6),  foot  of  E.  26th  St.,  a  general  hospital 
for  the  destitute  sick  and  injured.  Capacity,  1235  beds.  Its  branches 
include  Fordham  Hospital  (1907)  Crotona  ave.  and  Southern  Boulevard; 
Harlem  Hospital  (1907)1  Lenox  ave.  and  136th  st.;  and  Gouverneur 
Hospital,   Gouverneur   Slip  and   Front  st. 

New  York  Hospital  (i770»  W.  15th  and  i6th  sts.,  near  sth  ave., 
a  general  hospital  for  pay  and  free  patients.  Private  rooms,  from 
$3.50  to  $10.00  per  day. 

Presbyterian  Hospital  (1872),  Madison  ave.  betw.  70th  and  71st 
sts.  For  the  care  of  the  poor  sick  of  any  creed,  nationality  and  color. 
Capacity   250   beds. 

Roosevelt  Hospital  (1864),  9th  to  loth  aves.  betw.  s8th  and  59th 
sts.      Capacity,   2S2    beds. 


PHYSICIANS,  DENTISTS,  HOSPITALS  89 

St.  Luke's  Hospital  (1850),  Amsterdam  ave.  and  113th  st.  Free 
to  those  who  cannot  pay.  Private  rooms,  $3.50  to  $12.00  per  day. 
Capacity,  300  beds. 

5^  Vincent  Hospital  (1849),  7th  ave.  betw.  nth  and  12th  sts. 
The  1 2th  St.  side  is  set  apart  for  private  patients;  rooms  from  $20.00 
per  week  upward.     Capacity,  370  beds. 

Hahnemann  Hospital  (incorporated  in  1875  through  the  consolida- 
tion of  the  New  York  Homeopathic  Hospital  and  the  New  York 
Homeopathic  Hospital  for  Women  and  Children),  Park  ave.  betw.  67th 
and  68th  sts.  Private  rooms,  $20.00  to  $60.00  per  week.  Capacity, 
130  beds. 

Mt.  Sinai  Hospital  (1852),  looth  to  loist  st.  betw.  Madison  and 
5th  aves.  Board  from  $7.00  per  week  up,  for  those  who  can  afford  to 
pay.     Capacity,   509  beds. 

Nejv  York  Polyclinic  Medical  School  and  Hospital  (1882),  341 -Si 
W.  soth  St. 

Hospital  of  the  French  Benevolent  Soc,iety  of  New  York  (1809), 
450-58  W,  34th  St.  Indigent  patients  admitted  free;  others  charged 
according  to  circumstances. 

German  Hospital  (1861),  E.  76th  and  77th  sts.,  betw.  Park  and 
Lexington  aves.  Free  rtedical  and  surgical  treatment,  regardless  of 
ilationality,  color  or  creed.  Private  rooms  according  to  size  and  loca- 
tion.    Capacity,  328  ])eds. 

New  York  Homeopathic  Medical  College  and  Flower  Hospital 
(i860),  Ave.  A,  betw.  63d  and  64th  sts.  A  general  hospital,  maintaining 
also  a  maternity  ward. 

Knickerbocker  Hospital  (incorp.  1862  as  the  Manhattan  Dispensary, 
later  the  J.  Hood  Wright  Hospital),  Amsterdam  ave.  and  131st  st. 
Capacity,  55  beds. 

New  York  Post  Graduate  Medical  School  and  Hospital  (founded 
in  1882  by  members  of  the  Post  Graduate  Faculty  of  the  New  York 
University),  2d  ave.  and  20th  sts.  Private  rooms  $30.00  to  $60.00  per 
week.     Capacity,  405   beds. 

b.    Special  Hospitals 

Society  of  the  Lying-in  Hospital  (1798),  2d  ave.  betw.  17th  and 
1 8th  sts.,  for  the  relief  and  cure  of  destitute  women  unable  to  procure 
medical  treatment  during  confinement.  Private  rooms,  $35-oo  per  week 
upward. 

Shane  Hospital  for  Women  (1888),  59th  st.  and  Amsterdam  ave. 
Capacity,   155   beds. 

Babies'  Hospital  (1887),  Lexington  ave.  and  55th  st.  For  sick 
children  under  three  years  of  age.     Capacity,  75  beds. 

Manhattan  Eye,  Ear  and  Throat  Hospital  (1896),  210  E.  64th  st. 
Capacity,   150  beds. 

New  York  Orthopedic  Hospital  (1868),  126  E.  59th  st.  For  dis- 
.  eases  of  the  spine  and  hip.  Children  are  received  between  thg  ages  of 
4  and  14.     Capacity,  66  beds. 

New  York  Skin  and  Cancer  Hospital  (1882),  N.  E.  cor.  of  19th 
St.  and  2d  ave.     Capacity,  100  beds. 

New  York  Ophthalmic  Hospital  (1852),  201  E.  23d  st.  For  the 
treatment  of  the'  eye,  ear  and  throat.  Private  rooms,  $20.00  per  week 
upward.      Capacity,   80   beds. 

Rockefeller  Institute  for  Medical  Research  (1901),  66th  st.  and 
Ave.  A.  Patients  admitted  only  when  suffering  from  certain  specified 
diseases,  which  from  time  to  time  are  selected  for  observation  and 
treatment.     Capacity,  70  beds- 


90  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

XX.     Banks 

Banks  and  Trust  Companies.  (This  list  is  merely  representative, 
the  choice  being  partly  governed  by  central  location,  in  the  midtown 
and  down-toWn  districts).  Bank  of  America,  44  Wall  St.;  Bank  of 
the  Manhattan  Company,  40  Wall  St.;  Bank  of  the  Metropolis,  31 
Union  Sq. ;  Chemical  National  Bank,  270  Broadway;  Com  Exchange 
Bank,  13  William  St.,  4th  Ave.  and  29th  St.,  124  E.  86th  St.,  81  E. 
i2Sth  St.;  Fifth  Avenue  Bank,  530  5th  Ave.;  Hanover  National  Bank, 
cor.  Pine  and  Nassau  Sts. ;  Metropolitan  Bank,  271  and  565  Broad- 
way, 4th  Ave.  and  23d  St.,  109  William  St.;  National  Park  Bank,  214 
Broadway;  New  York  Produce  Exchange  Bank,  10  Broadway,  651 
Madison  Ave.,  83d  St.  and  Columbus  Ave.,  seven  other  branches; 
First  National  Bank,  2  Wall  St.;  Second  National  Bank,  sth.  Av^. 
and  28th  St.;  Garfield  National  Bank,  200  5th  Ave.;  Irving  National 
Bank,    Woolworth    Building. 

Broadway  Trust  Company,  754  Broadway;  Central  Trust  Com- 
P<^**y>  54  Wall  St.,  Madison  Ave.  and  42d  St.;  Columbia  Trust  Com- 
pany, 60  Broadway.  358  5th  Ave.,  two  other  branches;  Empire  Trust 
Company,  42  Broaaway,  65  Cedar  St.,  580  5th  Ave.;  Equitable  Trust 
Company,  37  Wall  St.,  222  Broadway,  618  sth  Ave.;  Guaranty  Trust 
Company,  140  and  170  Broadway,  514  5th  Ave.;  Lincoln  Trust  Com- 
pany, 413  Broadway,  204  sth  Ave.,  Broadway  and  72d  St.;  Union 
Trust  Company,  80   Broadway,  5th  Ave.  and  60th   St 

Private  Bankers 

Bankers.  Bertron,  Griscom  &  Co.,  40  Wall  st.;  Blair  &  Co.,  24 
Wall  St.;  Brown  Bros.  &  Co.,  59  Wall  St.;  Henry  Clews  &  Co.,  500 
Fifth  ave. ;  Harvey  Fisk  &  Sons,  62  Cedar  St.;  Harris,  Forbes  &  Co., 
Pine  &  William  sts.;  Kidder,  Peabody  &  Co.,  17  Wall  st.;  Lee,  Hig- 
(dnson  &  Co.,  43  Exchange  pi.;  Spencer  Trask  &  Co.,  43  Exchange  pi.; 
J.   P.  Morgan  &  Co.,  Broad  &  Wall  sts. 

Foreign  Bankers 

French:  Lazard  Fr^res,  10  Wall  St.;  Credit  Lyonnaise  (agency), 
52  William  St.;  Comptoir  National  d'Escompte  de  Paris,   100  Broadway. 

German:  Goldman,  Sachs  &  Co.,  60  Wall  st. ;  Heidelbach,  Ickel- 
heimer  &  Co.,  49  Wall  st.;  Ladenbur|f,  Thalmann  &  Co.,  25  Broad  St.; 
Kuhn,  Loeb  &  Co.,  52  William  St.;   Speyer  &  Co.,  24  Pine  st. 

Spanish:  Banco  Nacional  de  Cuba,  i  Wall  st. ;  Commercial  Bank 
of  Spanish  America,  20  Broad  st. ;  National  Bank  of  Nicaragua,  Inc., 
59  Wall  St. 

English:  Bank  of  British  North  America,  52  Wall  St.;  Bank  of 
British  West  Africa,  Ltd.,  64  Wall  St.;  Bank  of  Montreal,  64  Wall  st.; 
Chartered  Bank  of  India,  Australia  &  China  (agency),  88  Wall  st. ; 
London  &  Brazilian  Bank,  Ltd.,  56  Wall  st.;  London  &  River  Plate 
Bank  (agency),  49  Wall  st. ;  Merchants  Bank  of  Canada,  63  Wall  St.; 
National  Bank  of  Australasia,  60  Wall  St.;  National  Bank  of  South 
Africa,  60  Wall  St.;  Royal  Bank  of  Canada,  68  William  st. ;  Standard 
Bank  of  South  Africa,  55  Wall  St.;  Yokohama  Specie  Bank,  Ltd.,  55 
Wall  St.;   National  Bank  of  India,  60  Wall  st. 

Italian:     Banco    di    Napoli,    80    Spring   st. 


CONSULAR  OFFICES  91 

,  XXI.    Consular  Offices 

Foreign  Consuls  in  New  York  City.  Argentine  Republic — 
Ernesto  C.  Perez.  Consul-Gencral;  P2  Wall  St.:   10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

Anttrla-Hnncary — Alexander  Nuber  de  Pereked,  Consul-General; 
24   State  St.;    10  a.   m.   to   .1  p.   m. 

Belglnm — Pierre  Mali,  Consul;  2$  Madison  ave.;  10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

BoliTla — Adolf 0  Ballivian,  Consul-General ;  4  Stone  St.;  10  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m. 

Brazil — Carlos  Henrique  de  Martins  Pinheiro,  Consul-General; 
17  State  St.,  Room  514;  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Chili — Ricardo  Sanchea-Crua,  Consul  General ;  2  Rector  st. ;  11  a.  m. 
to  4  p.   m. 

China — Yang  Yu  Ying,  Consul;   18  Broadway;   10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 
Colombia — Jorge    Moya     Vaques,     Consul-Gencral;     24     State     St.; 

9  a.   m.   to   5  p.  m. 

Costa  Rica — Prancisco  Montero,  Consul-General;  10  a.  ra.  to  5  p.m. 
Cuba — Leopoldo    Dolz   y    Arango,    Consul-General;    82    Beaver    St., 

10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Denmark — Georg  Beck.  Consul;  8  Bridge  st. ;  to  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Dominican  Reirablic — Manuel  de  J.  Camacko,  Consul-General;  Juan 
Eta,  Pittaluga,  Chancellor;   17  Battery  pi.;  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Ecuador — Enrique  Galtardo,  Consul-General;  11  Broadway;  10  a.  m. 
to  4  p.  m. 

France — G,  Bosserand  d'Anglade,  Consul-Gencral;  10  Bridge  st.. 
Room  910;   10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

Germany — Erich  Hossenf elder,  Acting  Consul;  11  Broadway,  Room 
968;    10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Great  Britain — Charles  Clive  Bayley.  Consul-General;  office,  17 
State  St.,  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.;  office  for  Shipping  S<eamen,  25  South  st.; 
10   a.   m.  to   3   p.   m. 

Greece — D.  Botassi,  Consul-General;  35  South  William  St.;  10  a.m. 
to  4  p.  m. 

Guatemala — Dr.  Ramon  Bengoechea,  Consul-General;  12  Broad- 
way, Room  901;   9  a.   m.  to  3  p.   m. 

Hajrti — F,  Charles  Moravia,  Consul-General;  33  Broadway;  10  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m. 

Hondnras — R.  Camilo  Diaz,  Consul-Gencral;  31  Broadway;  9  a.  m. 
to  3  p.   m. 

Italy — Giacomo  Fara  Forni,  Consul-General;  226  Lafayette  st.; 
10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Japan — Takashi  Nakamura,  Consul;  60  Wall  St.,  Room  1707;  lo  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m. 

Liberia — Edward  G.  Merrill,  Consul;  59  Pearl  st..  Room  606;  2.30 
to   5  p.  m. 

Mexico — Alfredo      Caturegli,      Consul-General.      17      Battery      PI.; 

"M-ontLCO—Stanislas  d'Halevyn,  Consul;  10  Bridge  st.;  Room  910; 
10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

Montenegro— ^n*/to«y    V,   Seferovitch,   Consul;     105   W.   40th  st.; 

Netherlands — A.  van  de  Sande  Bakhuyzen,  Consul;  J.  A.  Schurman, 
Vice-Consul;   11   Broadway,  Room  909;   10  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m. 

Nicaragua — Ernesto  Solorzano  Diaz,  Consul-General;  66  Beaver  st.; 
10  a.  m.  to  3  p.   m. 

Norway — Christopher  Ravn,  Consul-General;  Ferd.  Lunde,  Vice- 
Consul;  17  State  St.;  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Panama — Saturnino  Perigault,  Vicc-Consul-General;  11  Broadway; 
10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

Paraguay — W.  W.  White,  Consul;  233  Broadway;  10  a.  m.  to 
4  p.  m. 


93  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Persia — Dikran  Khan  Kelekian,  Consul-General^*  225  Fifth  ^ave.; 
10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Peru — Eduardo  Higginson,  Consul-General;  25  Broad  st.;  10  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m. 

Portugal — Carlos  Rangel  de  Sampaio,  Consul-General;  Carlos  Olavo, 
Vice-Consul;  17  State  St.;  lo  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Russia — Michael  M.  Oustinoff,  Consu\-Gencr&\;  Baron  Oskar  Korff, 
Vice-Consul;   22  Washington   Sq.,  north;    10  a.  m.   to   i   p.   m. 

Salvador — Gretfbrio  Arbizu,  Consul;  42  Broadway,  Room  i545; 
10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

Servia — Michel  I.  Pupin,   Consul;   443   W.   22d  st. 

Siamr-F.   Warren  Summer,  Acting  Consul;  6  Wall  st. 

Spain — Francisco  Salas,  Consul-General;  Fernando  P.  del  Pulgar, 
Vice-Consul;   18  Broadway,  Room  513;   10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Sweden — M.  Clarholm,  Consul-General;  Charles  G.  Fredholm,  Vicc- 
Consul;   17  State  st.;   10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Switzerland — L.  //.  Junod,  Consul;  100  Fifth  ave.;  9  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Turkey — Djelal  Munif  Bey,  Consul-General;  A.  Mourad  Shah-Muir 
Effendi,  Vice-Consul;  59  Pearl  st.;   10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Uruguay — Mario  L.  Gil,  Consul-General;  Alfredo  Mets  Green, 
Consul;   17  Battery  PI.;  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Venezuela — P.  R.  Rincones,  Consul-General;  82  Wall  st.;  10  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m. 

XXII.     Planning  a  New  York  Stay 

The  most  tireless  sight-seer  cannot  hope  to  cover  the 
sights  of  Greater  New  York,  even  in  a  most  cursory  way,  in 
less  than  from  two  to  three  weeks,  and  only  then  by  devoting 
practically  all  the  daytime  to  sight-seeing,  uninterrupted  by 
shopping  or  social  intercourse.  It  would  be  wise,  especially 
in  view  of  time  lost  in  covering  the  long  distances  between 
points  of  interest,  fpr  the  visitor  to  familiarize  himself  in 
advance  with  New  York*s  topography  and  choose  his  hours 
so  as  to  give  himself  plenty  of  time  to  cover  each  exhibit 
in  a  single  visit.  Excursions  outside  of  Manhattan,  whether 
to  the  other  boroughs  or  to  the  suburban  towns  of  West- 
chester County  or  New  Jersey,  should  not  be  too  long  put  off, 
as  a  week  of  bad  weather  at  the  end  of  the  stay  might  preclude 
them  altogether.  But  the  traveler  whose  time  is  strictly 
limited  would  be  wiser  to  spend  it  mainly  in  the  heart  of 
Manhattan  and  to  devote  a  few  days  at  least  to  learning  the 
life  of  the  city,  frequenting  its  indoor  playgrounds,  the  big 
hotels,  restaurants  and  tea-rooms,  and  in  general  imbibing 
its  atmosphere, — all  of  which  is  quite  as  essentially  a  part 
of  the  city's  "sights"  as  is  Trinity  Churchyard  or  the  Bronx 
Zoological  Garden.  New  York  has  many  historical  associa- 
tions, many  beautiful  and  costly  buildings,  and  its  museums  of 
art  and  science  are  unrivaled  in  America.  Yet  what  the 
visitor  will  chiefly  remember  is  none  of  these,  but  the  rush 


PLANNING  A  NEW  YORK  STAY  •    93 

and  surge  of  the  city  streets,  the  thronging  crowds,  the  high 
tension  of  life,  the  motley  cosmopolitanism,  that  altogether 
make  New  York  unparalleled  by  any  other  city  on  earth. 

a.    Distribution  of  Time 

The  following  suggested  sight-seeing  itinerary,  which  is 
planned  for  a  stay  of  two  weeks,  will  aid  the  visitor  in  cover- 
ing the  principal  points  of  interest  with  a  minimum  loss  of 
time.  The  distances  in  New  York  are  so  great,  owing  to 
the  long  and  narrow  formation  of  Manhattan  Island,  that 
each  separate  district  should  be  seen  as  thoroughly  as  possible 
in  a  single  day,  in  order  to  avoid  retracing,  steps.  The  order 
in  which  these  fourteen  trips  are  taken  may  be  altered  to 
suit  the  visitor's  convenience;  but  he  should  note  carefully 
the  days  and  hours  when  the  various  musev**«s  and  public 
buildings  are  open,  also  the  free  and  pay-days;  and  above 
all,  he  should  familiarize  himself  in  advance  with  the  routes 
followed  by  the  Subway  and  Elevated  lines,  and  the  location 
of  their  stations.  It  should  be  noted  also  that  the  trips 
marked  3d  and  loth  days  in  the  present  scheme  are  the  only 
ones  which  can  be  satisfactorily  taken  on  Sundays. 

1st  Day.  Preliminary  Ramble  (p.  96)-;  combined  with 
a  visit  to  Grant's  Tomb  (p.  253) ;  Union  Theological  Sem- 
inary (p.  256)  ;  Columbia  University  (p.  263)  and  Low  Memo- 
rial Library  (p.  265)  ;  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine  (p. 
257)  ;  Upper  End  of  Central  Park. 

2d.  Day.  Madison  Square  (p.  164)  ;  Flatiron  Building 
(p.  164)  ;  Metropolitan  Building  and  Ascent  of  Tower  (p. 
206);  Fifth  avenue  from  23d  to  42d  sts.(  p.  181);  Church 
of  the  Transfiguration  (p.  181)  ;  the  Waldorf-Astoria  (p. 
182)  ;  Side  Excursion  to  Herald  Square  (p.  167) ;  the  De- 
partment Stores  (p.  75);  Afternoon:  Public  Library  and 
Art  Collections   (p.  186). 

3d  Day.  Fifth  avenue  from  42d  st.  to  the  Metropolitan 
Museum:  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  (p.  199);  St,  Thomas's 
Church  (p.  203) ;  Pulitzer  Memorial  Fountain  (p.  205)  ; 
Central  Park  Menagerie  (p.  302)  ;  the  Mall,  Terrace,  Lake 
and  Ramble  (p.  303);  the  Obelisk  (p.  304).  Afternoon: 
Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (p.  305) ;  Return  by  Fifth  ave., 
"Millionaires*  Row''   (p.  329). 

4th  Day.  •  Broadway  from  Herald  Square  to  Columbus 
Circle  (p.  167)  ;  Maine  Memorial  Monument  (p.  174)  ; 
Central  Park,  W.  side,  to  77th  St.;  New  York  Historical 
Society  (p.  244) ;  American  Museum  of  Natural  History 
(p.  278). 


94    •  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Sth  Day.  The  Battery,  (p.  119) ;  the  Aquarium  (p. 
120)  ;  the  Custom  House  (p.  121) ;  Trinity  Church  (p.  132) ; 
Wall  St.  (p.  126) ;  Stock  Exchange  (p.  126) ;  Fraunces' 
Tavern'  (p.  123)  ;  St.  Paul's  (p.  137)  ;  IVoolworth  Building 
and  Ascent  of  Tower  (p.  138)  ;  City  Hall  (p.  141)  ;  Hall  of 
Records  (p.  144)  ;  Municipal  Building   (p.  146). 

6th  Day.  The  Lower  East  Side:  Gramercy  Park  (p. 
220)  ;  Irving  Place  (p.  218) ;  E.  14th  St.  and  Tammany  Hall 
(p.  218) ;  Cvoper  Union  (p.  154)  ;  St.  Mark's  in  the  Bowery 
(p-.  157)  ;  the  Foreign  Quarters:  i.  Italian  Quarter,  Elis- 
abeth St.,  Mott  St.,  Mulberry  st.  and  Park;  2.  Chinatown, 
Mott  St.,  Pell  St.  and  Doyers  st.  (p.  149)  ;  3.  Greek  Quarter 
(p.  149)  ;  Yiddish  and  Russian  Quarters,  Allen  st.  (Brass 
and  Copper  Antiques:  p.  150). 

This  excursion  involves  a  rather  long  walk  through  narrow,  sordid 
streets,  teeming  with  ah  overcrowded  population,  but  it  is  picturesque 
and  quite  safe  for  strangers. 

7th  Day.  Middle  West  Side:  Washington  Market  (p. 
136) ;  St.  John's  Chapel  (p.  158") ;  Greenwich  Village  (p. 
160) ;  Washington  Square  (p.  174) ;  Grace  Church  (p.  155)  ; 
University  Place  (p.  179)  ;  Lower  Fifth  ave.;  Church  of  the 
Ascension  (p.  177) ;  First  Presbyterian  Church  (p.  178)  ; 
W.  14th  St.:  Chelsea  Improvement  Docks  (p.  238)  ;  General 
Theological  Seminary  (p.  233) ;  New  General  Post  Office 
(p.  232)  ;  Pennsylvania  Station  (p.  116)  ;  Roosevelt  Hospital 
(P-  235) ;  Church  of  the  Paulist  Fathers  (p.  233). 

Sth  Day.  Chapel  of  the  Intercession  (p.  345) ;  Trinity 
Cemetery  (p.  345)  ;  Hispanic  Society  (p.  346)  ;  Geographical 
Society  (p.  346) ;  Numismatic  Society  (p.  350) ;  Spanish 
Chapel  of  Our  Lady  of  Hope  (p.  350;  ^SSth  st.  Viaduct; 
Polo  Grounds  (p.  353)  ;  Speedway  (p.  353)  ;  Jumel  Mansion 
(p.  351)  ;  College  of  the  City  of  New  York  (p.  344) ;  i2Sth 
St.  (Harlem's  busiest  street;  see  p.  340). 

Note. — The  visitor  who  is  pressed  for  time  should  plan  to  make 
a  side  excursion  from  the  Jumel  Mansion  to  High  Bridge,  then  N. 
across  Washington  Bridge  (trolley  car),  to  New  Yark  University  and 
the  Hall  of  Fame.  There  are  .many  joints  of  interest  in  this  section, 
but  the  loss  of  time  involved  is  prohibitive  in  a  two-weeks'  visit. 

9th  Day.  Brooklyn:  Brooklyn  Bridge  (p.  iii) ;  Bor- 
ough Hall  (p.  402) ;  The  Heights  (p.  405)-;  Navy  Yard 
(p.  439)  ;  Fort  Greene  Park  (p.  436) ;  Fulton  street  (Shop- 
ping and  Theatre  District)  The  Plasa  (p.  419)  ;  Prospect 
Park  (p.  422);  Brooklyn  Museum  (p.  424);  Grant  Monu- 
:  ft^ent  (p.  435)  ;  Children's  Museum  (p.  436). 


PLANNING  A  NEW  YORK  STAY  95 

Note. — Greenwood  Cemetery  may  be  reached  from  the  Plaza  in 
about  15  minutes  (p.  445).  Flatbush  (reached  by  trolley  in  10 
minutes)  has  a  number  of  old  landmarks.  Prospect  Park  West  is  a 
resfdential  section  which  contains  some  points  of  interest  to  be  reachevl 
most  easily  from  the  Plaza. 

The  easiest  and  quickest  return  to  Manhattan  is*  from  the  Chil- 
dren's Museum  to  the  Manhattan  Terminus  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge, 
either  by  Elevated  or  trolley  lines.  Passengers  on  the  Elevated  would 
do  well  to  leave  the  Elevated  at  the  Fulton  St.  Station  and  take 
the  trolley  across  the  Manhattan  Bridge  (the  -view  is  eltceptionally 
good). 

loth  Day.  The  Bronx,  East  Section  (reached  either  by 
Bronx  Subway  or  by  3d  ave.  Elevated  (p.  33),  and  change 
to  Subway  at  3d  ave.):  Fordham  College  (p.  381);  Botan- 
ical Garden  (p.  377) ;  Zoological  Gardens  (p.  366)  ;  Hem- 
lock Forest,  Bronx  River  and  Lorillard  Mansion   (p.  381), 

nth  Day.  A.  (If  in  season)  Coney  Island  (p.  446) ; 
Brighton  BeacH  (p.  448)  ;  Sheepshead  Bay  (p.  448)  ;  B.  Met- 
ropolitan Museum  of  Art  and  American  Museum  of  Natural 
History  (second  visit)  (easily  reached  by  trolley  across  the 
Park,  through  86th  st.  cross-cut.) 

I2th  Day.  Woodlawn  Cemetery  (p.  384) ;  Trolley  to 
Yonkers  (p.  393) ;  Van  Cortlandt  Park  and  Manor  (p.  363)  ; 
Inwood.  Park  (p.  355). 

13th  Day.  Hohoken  (p.  461);  Jersey  City  (p.  453); 
Newark  (p.  461). 

14th  Day.    Staten  Island  (p.  449). 

A   Five   Dayi'   Itinerary 

For  a  five  days'  visit  the  following  program  is  suggested : 

First  Day.  Start  at  Madison  square:  see  "Flatiron  Build- 
ing," Metropolitan  Building,  Appellate  Court,  Madison  Square 
Garden;  walk  up  5th  ave.  to  50th  st,  visiting  Waldorf-Astoria, 
Public  Library  and  St,  Patrick's  Cathedral;  take  Riverside 
Drive  Omnibus  to  Grant's  Tomb;  visit  Columbia  University 
and  St.  John  the  Divine;  return  by  Subway  to  50th  st.  and 
walk  down  Broadway  to  Herald  sq.  (theatre  and  shopping 
district). 

Second  Day.  The  Battery;  Custom  House;  Trinity 
Church;  Wall  street;  St.  Paul's  Chapel;  Woolworth  Building; 
City  Hall;  Hall  of  Records;  Municipal  Building.  This  ought 
to  be  done  in  a  morning.  The  afternoon  may  be  devoted 
to  Brooklyn:  cross  Brooklyn  Bridge  by  trolley;  visit  Brook- 
lyn Heights  and  Plymouth  Church;  then  by  Flatbush  ave. 
car  to  Prospect  Park  and  Brooklyn  Institute. 

Third  Day.  Central  Park;  the  Obelisk;  Metropolitan 
Museum;  take  crosstown  trolley  at  86th  st.  to  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History. 


96  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Fourth  Day.  Trinity  Cemetery;  Hispanic  Society;  Geo- 
graphical Society;  Numismatic  Society.  Take  Subway  to 
i8oth  St.,  then  crosstown  trolley  line  to  Bronx  Park,  Zoolog- 
ical Garden,  Botanical  Garden,  Lorillard  Mansion.  It  is  pos- 
sible to  include  Van  Cortlandt  by  continuing  in  Subway  to 
end  of  line,  and  then  crossing  by  trolley  to  Bronx  Park;  but 
most  tourists  would  find  this  too  fatiguing  for  a  single  day. 

Fifth  Day.  Fifth  ave.  below  23d  st. ;  Washington  square 
and  Arch;  Grace  Church;  Wanamaker's  Store;  Bible  House; 
Cooper  Union;  St  Mark's  in  the  Bowery;  E.  14th  st.  and 
Tammany  Hall;  Innng  place  and  Gramercy  Park.  If  time 
permits,  an  excursion  into  Greenwich  Village  may  be  made 
W.  from  Washington  sq.  From  Gramercy  Park  take  3d 
Ave.  Elevated  to  Chatham  sq.  and  visit  Chinatown  and  Italian 
quarter  around  Mulberry  st.  and  Park. 

b.    Preliminary  Survey  of  City 

After  finding  an  abiding  place  the  first  thing  that  a  visitor 
to  any  large  metropolis  needs  to  do  is  to  acquaint  himself  with 
his  environment,  and  the  relative  location  and  distance  of 
the  main  points  of  interest.  This  may  be  done  most  quickly 
by  an  excursion  through  the  main  arteries  of  the  city,  supple- 
mented at  the  first  convenient  opportunity,  by  the  ascent  of 
some  high  tower. 

Owing  to  the  long,  narrow  formation  of  Manhattan  Island,  the  cir- 
cuitous sort  of  initial  excursion,  such  as  is  usually  recommended  for 
London  or  Paris,  is  impracticable  here.  Any  plan  for  starting  from  the 
central  hotel  district,  where  the  traveller  will  presumably  be  staying, 
and  covering  the  northern  and  southern  sections  in  two  long,  irregular 
loops  would  not  only  be  too  fatiguing  for  a  single  ramble,  but  would 
involve  wasting  time  upon  much  that  is  relatively  of  minor  importance. 
It  has  seemed  best,  therefore,  to  start  the  stranger  at  the  Battery  and 
take  him  northward  to  Grant's  Tomb,  following  for  much  of  the  dis- 
tance the  line  of  Broadway. 

Take  any  Elevated  or  Subway  Line  S.  to  the  South  Ferry 
Station;  then  walk  N.  through  Battery  Park,  noting  Castle 
Garden  on  L.  (p.  120)  and  U.  S.  Custom  House  on  R.  (p. 
121);  the  Custom  House  faces  Bowling  Green  (p.  121) 
and  Broadway;  on  R.  is  the  Produce  Exchange  (p.  123), 
on  L.  the  Washington  Building  (p.  125)  ;  N.  of  Beaver 
St.  is  the  Standard  Oil  Building  (p.  125).  At  Rector  st. 
facing  Wall  St.,  is  Trinity  Church  (p.  132) ;  walk  E.  on 
Wall  St.  one  block  to  Broad  st.,  noting  on  L.  Sub-Treasury 
p.  126)  ;  on  the  R.  the  Banking  House  of  /.  P.  Morgan 
&  Co.  (p.  127)  ;  S.  on  Broad  st.  the  N.  Y.  Stock  Exchange 
(p.  126).  Continuing  up  Broadway,  the  visitor  passes,  at 
Pine  St.,  the  new  Equitable  Building  (p.  135) ;  at  Liberty  st. 


PLANNING  A  NEW  YORK  STAY  97 

the  Singer  Building  (p.  135)  ;  at  Fulton  st.  St.  Paul's  Chapel 
(p-  137)  ;  diagonally  opposite,  the  Post  Office  (p.  139). 
The  block  from  Barclay  st.  to  Park  pi.  is  occupied  by  the 
Woolworth  Building  (p.  138).  Beyond,  on  R.  is  City  Hall 
Park,  containing  City  Hall  (p.  141)  and  Court  House  (p. 
144),  while  facing  it  are  the  new  Hall  of  Records  (p.  144) 
and  Municipal  Building  (p.  146).  Here  take  Broadway 
surface  car  N.  to  loth  st.,  reaching  Wanamaker's  Department 
Store  (p.  15s)  and  Grace  Church  (p.  155).  Walk  W.  to 
University  pi.,  then  S.  to  Washington  sq.,  containing  the 
Washington  Arch  (p.  174).  Here  take  5th  ave. — Riverside 
Drive  'Bus  (via  57th  st.)  (outside  seat  is  possible:  in  summer 
there  is  apt  to  be  a  big  crowd  waiting,  especially  in  the 
afternoon). 

The  omnibus  passes  at  loth  st.  th^  Church  of  the  Ascen- 
sion (p.  177) ;  at  nth  St.  the  Old  First  Presbyterian  Church 
(p.  178)  ;  at  23d  St.  the  'Tlatiron  Building*'  (p.  164) ;  then, 
on  R.,  Madison  sq.  (p.  164),  and  across  it,  facing  E.  side, 
the  Metropolitan  Building  (p.  206),  Appellate  Court  (p. 
207),  and  Madison  Square  Garden  (p.  209).  At  24th  st. 
(L.)  is  the  Worth  Monument  (p.  164),  and  diagonally  op- 
posite (R.)  the  Farragut  Monument  (p.  164).  At  29th  st. 
(L.)  is  the  Marble  Collegiate  Church  (p.  181);  from  33d 
to  34th  St.  is  th^  Waldorf-Astoria  Hotel  (p.  182).  One  block 
W.  on  34th  St.  is  Herald  sq.  (p.  167),  a  shopping  district 
second  only  to  that  of  5th  ave. 

Opposite  the  Waldorf-Astoria,  N.  W.  cor.  of  sth  ave., 
is  the  Knickerbocker  Trust  Company  (p.  183)  ;  N.  JE.  cor. 
Altman's  Department  Store  (p.  183) ;  at  37th  st.  is  Tiffany's 
(p.  184) ;  diagonally  opposite,  N.  W.  cor.,  the  Brick  Pres- 
byterian Church  (p.  184);  38th  St.,  N.  W.  cor..  Lord  & 
Taylor  (p.  184) ;  39th  st.,  N.  E.  cor.,  Union  League  Club  (p. 
185)  ;  40th  St.,  S.  E.  cor.,  Arnold  Constable  &  Co.  (p.  185). 
From  40th  to  42d  st.  (L.)  is  the  New  York  Public  Library 
(p.  186). 

At  43d  St.,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Jewish  synagogue,  Temple 
Emanu-El  (p.  196) ;  at  44th  st.,  S.  W.  cor..  Sherry's  (p. 
197  ),  and  N.  E.  cor.  Delmonico's  (p.  197) ;  at  48th  st., 
N.  W.  cor.,  the  Collegiate  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  (p.  198)  ; 
at  50th  St.  St  Patrick's  Cathedral  (p.  199)  ;  at  51st  st. ;  N.  E. 
cor.,  the  Union  Club  (p.  202)  ;  opposite,  51st  to  52d  st,  the 
twin  Vanderbilt  'Residences  (p.  203) ;  52d  St.,  N.  W.  cor., 
Residence  of  Wm.  K.  Vanderbilt  (p.  203) ;  53d  st,  St. 
Thomas's  Church  (p.  203) ;  at  54th  st.,  N.  W.  cor..  University 
Club  (p.  204)  ;  55th  St.,  S.  E.  cor.,  St.  Regis  Hotel  (p.  204)  ; 
S.  W.  cor.  Gotham  Hotel  (p.  204)  ;  N.  W.  cor..  Fifth  Avenue 
Presbyterian  Church  (p.  204). 


98  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

At  57th  St.  the  omnibus  turns  W.  to  Broadway,  passing  at 
7th  ave.  the  Carnegie  Building,  containing  Carnegie  Hall  and 
Lyceum  (p.  231);  and  at  No.  215  (N.  side)  the  Fine  Arts 
Building  (p.  231). 

The  omnibus  now  turns  up  Broadway,  reaching  at  S9th 
St.  Columbus  Circle.  Note  on  L.  the  Columbus  Monument 
CP«  173 )»  and  on  R.,  at  S.  W.  entrance  to  Central  Park,  the 
Maine  Monument  (p.  174).  At  72d  st.  we  turn  W.  to  River- 
side Drive.  Observe  N.  on  Broadway,  at  73d  St.,  the  Verdi 
Statue  (p.  240),  and  (L.)  the  massive  bulk  of  the  Hotel 
Ansonia  (p.  240). 

On  Riverside  Drive,  73d  to  74th  St.,  is  the  Residence  of 
Charles  M.  Schwab  (p.  252) ;  at  89th  st.  is  the  former  resi- 
dence of  the  late  Bishop  Potter  (p.  252) ;  opposite  is  the 
Soldiers'  and  Sailors*  Monument  (p.  252) ;  at  looth  st.  is 
the  Firemen's  Monument  (p.  253)  ;  and  at  I22d  st.  we  reach 
Grant's  Tomb  (p.  253),  where  we  leave  the  omnibus. 

This  trip  should  not  have  taken  much  more  than  three  hours.  It 
would,  therefore,  be  a  wise  economy  of  time  to  visit  Grant's  Tomb 
and  the  adjacent  sights,  take  luncheon  at  the  historic  Claremont  (p. 
254)  and  devote  most  of  the  afternoon  to  Union  Theological  Seminary 
(p.  356) ;  Barnard  College  (p.  274) ;  Columbia  University  (p.  263) ; 
St.  Luke's  Hospital  (p.  256) ;  and  the  Cathedral  of  St_  John  the 
Divine.  Then  either  take  a  bus  across  iioth  st.  to  5th  ave.,  or  walk 
through  northern  portion  of  Central  Park;  then  take  5th  ave.  line 
omnibus  S.,  passing  at  82d  st.  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (p. 
305);  at  71st  St.  the  Residence  of  Henry  C.  Frick  (p.  330);  at 
64th  St.  the  Central  Park  Menagerie  (p.  302) ;  at  60th  st.  the  Metro- 
politan Club  (p.  329) ;  at  59th  st  the  Plaza,  Pulitzer  Memorial  Foun- 
tain  (p.  205),  and  Savoy,  Netherlands  and  Plasa  Hotels  (p.  205). 

0.    A  List  of  New  York's  Principal  Attractions. 

Drives:  Central  Park  (p.  301)  a  'Variety  of  routes; 
Riverside  Drive  (p.  251)  ;  with  Grants  Tomb  (p.  253),  enjoy- 
able from  motor  buses  (p.  29)  ;  5//1  ave.  (p.  174),  well  seen 
from  the  top  of  a  motor  bus  (p.  176) ;  Broadway  (p.  166  seq.) 
with  its  theatrical  and  hotel  district  brilliantly  illumined  at 
night;  Pelham  Bay  Park  (p.  391)  and  Van  Cortlandt  Park  (p. 
359)  with  Bronx  and  Pelham  Parkway  (p.  359)  and  Mosholu 
Parkway  (p.  359)  especially  used  for  motoring;  the  Speed- 
'^ay  (P-  353)  for  fast  horses;  Seeing  New  York  Automobiles 
(p.  29).  Parks:  Central  Park  (p.  301)  for  driving,  motoring, 
riding  or  walking;  the  Botanical  Gardens  (p.  377);  the 
Zoological  Gardens  (p.  366)  \P respect  Park,  Brooklyn  (p. 
422).  Harbor:  Governor's  Island  (p.  105);  Ellis  Island  (p. 
106);   the  Statue   of  Liberty    (p.    105).    Views:    from  the 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  99 

Palisades  (p.  460)  ;  from  the  towers  of  the  Singer  Building 
(p.  135)  ;  the  Woolworth  Building  (p.  138) ;  the  Metropolitan 
Building  (p.  206).  Engineering  Feats:  Brooklyn  Bridge 
(p.  140);  Manhattan  Bridge  (p.  m)  ;  Williamsburg  Bridge 
(p.  Ill)  ;  Queensboro  Bridge  (p.  no)  ;  the  Hudson  Tunnels 
(P-  35)  with  their  Terminal  Buildings  (p.  135)  ;  the  Subway 
with  its  Tunnel  to  Brooklyn  (p.  30)  ;  the  Flat-iron  Building 
(p.  164)  ;  the  Equitable  Building  (p.  135)  ;  Notable  Build- 
ings: City  Hall  (p.  141)  ;  Hall  of  Records  (p.  144)  ;  Muni- 
cipal Building  (p.  146);  Custom  House  (p.  121);  Public 
Library  (p.  186)  ;  Equitable  Building  (p.  135) ;  Flat-iron 
Building  (p.  164);  the._(7rani-  Central  Terminal  (p.  114)  J  the 
Pennsylvania  Termii^COt^.  116)  ^tht"StoW~ Exchange  (p. 
126).  Famous  Hotels:  The  Biltmore  (o.  212^  ;  the  Waldorf- 
Astoria  (p.  182)  ;  the  Ritz-Carlton  jpT  214) ;  the  Pla^a 
(p.  205)  ;  the  St.  Regis  (p.  204;.  museums:  Metropolitan  Art 
Museum  (p.  305) ;  the  Natural  History  Museum  (p.  278)  ; 
the  Hispanic  Museum  (p.  34^)  ;  the  Aquarium  (p.  120) ; 
Brooklyn  Museum  (p.  424);  N,Y,  Historical  Society  (p.  244). 
Churches  :  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine  (p.  199) ; 
St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  (p.  199)  ;  Trinity  (p.  132)  ;  St.  Paul's 
(p.  137) ;  ^i'  Mark's  in  the  Bowery  (p.  157) ;  Paulist 
Father^  (p.  233).  Universities  and  colleges:  Columbia 
University  (p.  263)  ;  New  York  University  (p.  360)  ;  Union 
Theological  Seminary  (p.  256)  ;  College  of  the  City  of  New 
York  (p.  344)  ;  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons  (p.  236). 
Historic  Mansions  :  Fraunces*  Tavern  (p.  123) ;  Jumel 
Mansion  (p.  351)  ;  Van  Cortlandt  Mansion  (p.  363)  ;  Lorillard 
Mansion  (p.  381). 

XXIII.     Bibliography 

Probably  the  most  complete  standard  history  of  New 
York  City  is  R.  R.  Wilson's  New  York:  Old  and  New  ('02, 
$3-5o),  in  two  volumes,  of  which  v.  i  gives  the  history  and 
V.  2  the  topographical  features.  Mrs.  M.  J.  Lamb's  three 
volume  History  of  the  City  of  New  York  (New  ed.  '10.  $5) 
is  a  close  second.  Leslie's  History  of  the  Greater  New  York 
('98.  $25)  supplements  Mrs.  Lamb's  history,  and  contains 
material  found  nowhere  else.  Valentine's  History  of  the 
City  of  New  York  ('53),  one  of  the  most  readable  of  the 
early  sources,  contains  many  interesting  old  cuts  and  maps. 
B.  J.  Lossing'«  two  volume  History  of  New  York  City  ('84) 
and  W.  L.  Stone's  History  of  New  York  from  the  Discovery 
to  the  Present  Day,  a  700  page  volume  C72)  are  both 
standard,   but   perhaps    more   suited   to    the   student   or   re- 


100  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

searcher  than  to  the  visitor  who  wants  something  compact 
and  more  or  less  popular.  Such  a  work,  brief  and  dependable, 
is  Historic  New  York,  a  compilation  by  Maude  Goodwin 
and  others,  in  two  volumes  ('99.  $1.50;  $2.50),  which  tells 
of  slavery,  schools,  taverns  and  other  unacademic  matters. 
C.  Hemstreet  has  written  in  even  more  popular  vein  When 
Old  New  York  Was  Young,  a  large  print  volume  ('02.  $1.50), 
Nooks  and  Corners  of  Old  New  York  ('99.  $2.)  and  Literary 
New  York,  Its  Landmarks  and  Associations  C03.  $1.75),  all 
of  which  contain  some  material  found  nowhere  else.  As 
the  work  of  a  newspaper  man,  however,  they  are  possibly 
more  entertaining  than  accurate.  The  following  period 
histories  are  interesting  and  authentic:  History  of  the  City 
of  New  York  by  Mrs.  Schuyler  Van  Rensselaer  ('09.  $5), 
in  two  volumes,  ending  with  1691 ;  Last  Days  of  Knicker- 
bocker Life  in  New  York  by  A.  C.  Dayton  ('82.  $2.50)  ; 
The  Dutch  Founding  of  New  York  by  T.  A.  Janvier,  quaintly 
illustrated  ('03.  $2.50),  and  New  Amsterdam  and  Its  People 
Under  Dutch  and  Early.  English  Rule  by  J.  H.  Innes 
('02.  $2.50). 

Alice  Morse  Earle's  Colonial  Days  in  Old  New  York 
('01.  $1.25),  a  discursive  account  of  the  customs  and  social 
life  of  the  Dutch  settlers,  is  good  of  its'  kind.  Esther  Single- 
ton's Dutch  New  York  ('09.  $3.50)  is  of  the  same  order, 
describing  furniture,  fashions,  china,  plate  and  manners. 
Laurence  Hutton's  delightful  A  Boy  I  Knew  ('98.  $1.25), 
and  J.  F.  Mines'  A  Tour  Around  New  York  ('01.  $3),  tell 
of  boyhood  days  in  New  York  in  the  nineteenth  century. 

New  York's  two  most  famous  streets  have  their  in- 
dividual biographies  in  F.  T.  Hill's  The  Story  of  a  Street 
('08.  $1.60),  tracing  Wall  Street's  growth  from  1640  to 
1908,  J.  B.  Kerfoot's  Broadway  ('11.  $2)  with  drawings  by 
Lester  G.  Hornby  and  Stephen  Jenkins'  The  Greatest  Street 
in  the  World  ('11.  $3.50),  Broadway,  old  and  new.  S^rah 
Comstock's  recent  Old  Roads  From  the  Heart  of  New  York 
('15.  $2.50)  is  a  charming,  well  illustrated  account  of  the 
quaint  places  still  to  be  found  near  the  city. 

Sketches  of  New  York  by  two  widely  known  artists  are 
features  of  Charcoals  of  New  and  Old  New  York  by  F.  Hop- 
kinson  Smith  ('12.  $5)  and  J.  C.  Van  Dyke's  The  New  New 
Kor^,  illustrated  by  Joseph  Pennell  ('09.  $4).  Theodore  Roose- 
velt's New  York  (New  ed.  '03.  $i.2Sn.)  traces  the  causes  of  the 
city's  growth.  Of  course  the  works  of  New  York's  greatest 
writer,  Washington  Irving  are  filled  with  local  associations, 
►especially  the  famous  burlesque  A  History  of  New  York  by 


1 

BIBLIOGRAPHY  loi 

Diedfich  Knickerbocker  and  Dolph  Heyliger,  a  legendary  tale 
of  the  Dutch. 

F.  B.  Kelly's  "Historical  Guide  to  the  City  of  New 
York,"  compiled  from  original  observations  and  contributions 
made  by  members  and  friends  of  the  City  History  Qub  of 
New  York  ('13.  $1.50)  is  the  standard  work  of  its  kind. 

The  following  informal  guides  have  been  prepared  for 
the  children:  Esther  Singleton's  Children's  City  (*io  $1.25); 
C.  Hemstreet's  Story  of  Manhattan  ('01.  $1),  and  A.  Ull- 
mann's  Landmark  History  of  New  York  ('03.  $1.25),  ex- 
plaining the  street  names,  etc. 

J.  B.  Reynold's  exhaustive  Civic  Bibliography  of  New 
York  City  ('11.  $1.50)  is  evidence  of  the  overwhelming 
number  of  publications  on  New  York  government  and  social 
conditions.  It  includes  the  publications  of  associations,  city 
departments,  etc.  Among  the  more  popular  sociological 
studies  on  the  city  the  following  two  are  widely  known: 
J.  A.  Riis's  Making  of  an  American  ('04.  $1.50),  the  story 
of  the  author's  own  life,  and  Lillian  D.  Wald's  The  House 
on  Henry  Street  ('15.  $2),  showing  what  settlement  work 
has  accomplished.  West  Side  Studies  ('14.  $2)  gives  an 
interesting  account  of  sociological  research  carried  on  under 
the  direction  of  Pauline  Goldmark. 

Among  the  Essays  on  New  York,  the  following  are  of 
interest:  Belshazsar  Court  ('14.  $1.25)  by  Simeon  Strunsky, 
Types  from  City  Streets  ('10.  $1.50),  in  which  Hutchins 
Hapgood  describes  the  Tammany  man,  the  Bohemian,  the 
shop  girl,  etc.,  and  Brander  Matthews*  Vignettes  of  Man- 
hattan  ('04.    $1.50). 

A  volume  of  Poetry  on  New  York,  Manhattan  ('09.  $1) 
is  the  work  of  Charles  Hanson  Towne.  The  Geology  of  the 
city  is  compactly  and  popularly  studied  in  Geology  of  the 
City  of  New  York   ('09.   $2.50)  by  L.  P.  Gratacap. 

Since  most  American  novelists  live  in  New  York  for  at 
least  part  of  their  lives,  and  since  there  is  plenty  of 
inspiration  to  be  found  in  all  the  extremes  the  city  covers, 
there  has  been  enough  Fiction  written  about  New  York 
to  keep  any  reader  supplied  for  mope  years  than  he  would 
care  to  devote  to  the  one  subject.  The  following  are  selected 
because  they  are  recognized  classics,  because  they  reproduce 
the  atmosphere  of  some  special  locality,  or  because  they  are 
of  popular  interest. 

Comparatively  few  real  classics  have  New  York  settings. 
Two  or  three  of  Cooper's  novels  give  a  picture  of  old  New 
York— notably  The  Spy,  a  story  of  about  1780;  Sanastoe,  a 
tale  of  the  French  and  Indian  war  which  gets  its  name  from 


102  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

an  old  estate  near  Hell  Gate;  The  Water-Witch,  centering 
around  New  York  Harbor  and  a  smuggling  brigantine  in 
Lord  Cornbury's  time,  and  Miles  Wallingford,  showing  the 
causes  of  the  War  of  1812.  The  scene  of  Washington  Irving*s 
Legend  of  Sleepy  Hollow  is  Tarrytown,  not  very  far  north 
of  New  York.  From  Cooper  to  Henry  James  few  outstanding 
works  appear.  Washington  Square  is  distinctly  a  New  York 
story,  of  the  days  when  the  region  of  the  title  was  New 
York's  social  Mecca.  George  William  Curtis's  gentle  Prue 
and  I  is  another  classic  of  Washington  Square  in  the  old 
days.  Howells  has  many  New  York  settings,  notably  in 
A  Hazard  of  New  Fortunes,  The  World  of  Chance,  The 
Coast  of  Bohemia  and  Their  Wedding  Journey.  F.  Hop- 
kinson  Smith,  a  devoted  lover  of  New  York,  brings  back 
the  early  days  of  the  National  Academy  of  Design  in  The 
Fortunes  of  Oliver  Horyi,  brings  to  light  the  most  quaint  of 
French  inns  in  A  Day  at  Laguerre^s,  opens  up  the  bywaj's 
of  Staten  Island  in  Tom  Grogan,  and  in  his  last  book.  Felix 
O'Day,  published  at  the  time  of  his  death  in  191 5,  makes 
Fourth  Avenue  his  background. 

O.  Henry  and  H.  C.  Bunner — almost  classic  writers,  both 
of  them — were  thoroughly  at  home  in  New  York.  From 
the  vast  number  of  O.  Henry  stories  it  is  hard  to  select  the 
most  typical,  but  perhaps  The  Four  Million  with  its  comedies 
and  tragedies  of  the  passing  throng  is  the  best  of  the  author's 
interpretations  of  the  city.  Bunner's  The  Midge  and  The 
Story  of  a  New  York  House  (the  house  being  No.  7  State 
St.)  are  well  worth  reading. 

New  York's  seamy  side  comes  to  light  in  D.  G.  Phillips* 
Fortune  Hunter,  set  in  the  lower  Second  Avenue  neighbor- 
hood, Helen  Van  Campen's  At  the  Actors*  Boarding  House 
picturing  Chatham  Square,  Abraham  Cahan's  The  Imported 
Bridegroom,  the  Ghetto  in  1880,  James  Oppenheim's  Dr. 
Rast,  another  Ghetto  story,  and,  in  the  way  of  humor,  E.  W. 
Townsend's  Chimmie  Fadden  and  Montague  Glass's  Potash 
and  Perlmutter,  a  clever  character  study  of  the  cloak  and 
suit  business  of  today. 

The  other  extreme  of  New  York  society  is  the  subject  of 
an  overwhelming  array  of  novels.  The  early  days  are 
covered  in  any  number  of  bright  wholesome  stories,  popular 
with  young  people,  by  Amelia  E.  Barr.  Gertrude  Atherton's 
The  Conqueror,  with  Alexander  Hamilton  as  its  central 
figure,  is  an  unusually  good  picture  of  his  time.  Coming 
down  to  the  present  such  novels  as  Edith  Wharton's  The 
House  of  Mirth;  Robert  W.  Chambers'  books  (for  instance 
King  in  Yellow  and  The  Case  of  Mr.  Helmer  introducing 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  103 

Milliken  Place) ;  F.  M.  Crawford's  Katherine  Lauderdale 
and  Richard  Harding  Davis's  Van  Bibber  and  Others  are 
characteristic  In  The  Goldfish,  a  recent  book,  Arthur  Train 
vigorously  attacks  the  hollowness  of  New  York  society. 

A  good  word  should  be  spoken  for  W.  P.  Eaton's  dainty 
romance  The  Runaway  Place  in  which  Central  Park  provides 
two  lovers  with  a  background. 

The  last  year  or  two  brought,  among  others,  the  folk)w- 
ing  good  novels  on  the  city:  Leroy  Scott's  No.  13  Washing- 
ton  Square,  a  mystery  story;  George  Bronson  Howard's 
God's  Man,  introducing  little  known  Rupert  Court,  Beekman 
Place,  etc.;  Rupert  Hughes'  Empty  Pockets,  with  some  of 
its  scenes  laid  in  Batavia  Street,  "the  most  Dickensy  street 
in  New  York,"  and  its  neighborhood;  Ernest  Poole's  The 
Harbor,  a  sociological  novel,  widely  read,  showing  how  New 
York  Harbor  influenced  a  man's  life;  C.  G.  Norris's  The 
Amateur,  a  sincere  picture  of  artist  life  to-day;  James  Lane 
Allen's  A  Cathedral  Singer,  backj^rounded  by  the  Cathedral 
of  St.  John  the  Divine  on  Morningside  Heights,  arfd  Gran- 
ville Barker's  Souls  on  Fifth,  a  delicious  littlp  satfre  nn 
-Fliih  Ave,  crowds,  fndiny  in  one  9f  the  strangest  romances 
of  fictionT  —        y. 

'       New    York's    literary    associations    and     traditions    are    /^ 
exhaustively  described  in  New  York  of  the  Novelists  by  A. 
B.  Maurice   ('16). 


ENTERING  NEW  YORK 

I.    Via  Ocean  Steamship 

The  traveler  arriving  at  New  York  on  an  ocean  steamship 
is  first  welcomed  by  the  Nantucket  Lightship  (192  M.  from 
Sandy  Hook  Lightship)  which  reports  incoming  vessels  by 
wireless.  The  first  land  sighted  is  usually  either  Fire  Island 
or  the  Nave  sink  Highlands  on  the  New  Jersey  coast,  each 
with  ^  lighthouse.  Sandy  Hook  Bar  (PL  A.— E7)  runs  N. 
from  the  New  Jersey  coast  toward  Long  Island,  protecting 
Lower  Bay  from  the  ocean.  Three  channels  cut  this  bar  and  al- 
low entrance  to  vessels.  A  strong  ebb  tide  keeps  these  channels 
open  even  in  winter.  They  are  the  new  Ambrose  Channel, 
40  ft.  deep;  Main-Ship-Bayside-Gedney  Channel,  30  ft.  deep; 
and  Swash  South  Channel,  22  ft.  Ambrose  Lightship  is  the 
point  from  which  the  time  of  the  voyage  is  reckoned.  Sandy 
Hook  Beacon,  with  a  white  light,  is  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Lower  Buy  of  New  York  Harbor.  The  distance  from  Sandy 
Hook  to  the  Battery  is  18  M.  . 

The  Lower  Bay  contains  two  islands  eiven  up  to  hospitals  for  the 
reception  of  travellers  with  contagious  diseases.  Swlnoarne  Iiland 
(PI.  A — C6)  the  first,  receives  the  very  serious  cases  like  bubonic  plague, 
cholera,  typhus,  etc.  Hoffman  IilandCPI.  A — C5),  nearer  the  city,  pro- 
vides for  less  dangerous  diseases  and  shelters  also  the  people  who  must 
be  detained  because  they  have  been  exposed  to  infection. 

On  the  S.  of  Lower  Bay  is  the  New  Jersey  coast,  and  the  S.  part  of 
the  bay,  adjacent  to  the  Hook,  is  called  Sandy  Hook  Bay  (PI.  A> — C7),  and 
near  Staten  Island,  Raritan  Bay  (PI., A — A7)  into  which  flows  Arthur  Kill 
(PI.  A.— A6).  On  the  W.  (left  hand)  of  Lower  Bay  is  Staten  Island  (PI. 
A — Bs-6)  with  small  suburban  settlements  along  the  coast  among  which 
is  the  recreation  grounds  of  South  Beach.  As  the  vessel  approaches 
The  Narrows  (PI.  A — C5)  a  strait  lying  betw.  Staten  Island  and  Long 
Island,  the  famous  beach.  Coney  Island  (at  the  S.  point  of  Lonq  Island) 
is  seen  on  the  E.  (right  hand).  On  summer  evenings  the  lights  are 
charming. 

E.  of  Coney  Island  lies  Barren  Island  (Pl.^  XII — Ds)  where  the  city 
garbage  is  reduced.     Jamaica  Bay   (PI.   XII — ^D4)   is  beyond. 

The  Upper  Quarantine  Station  is  about  3  m.  from  Sandy  Hook  at 
Clifton  (PI.  A — C5)  off  which  all  vessels  anchor  until  they  have  been 
cleared  by  the  officer  of  the  Board  of  Health.  About  halfway  between 
the  Quarantine  Station  and  New  York,  to  the  W.  is  Robbins  Reef, 
with  a  lighthouse. 

Passing  through  the  Narrows  which  forms  entrance  to  the  Upper 
Bay,  Staten  Island  on  the  left  has  the  fortifications  Fort  Wadsworth 
and  Fort  Tompkins,  while  Long  Island  to  the  right  has  Fort  Hamilton. 

Just  off  Fort  Hamilton  is  Fort  Lafayette  (PI.  A — C5)  used  as  a 
storage  place  for  ordnance.     During  the   Civil  War  it  was  a  prison. 

As  the  vessel  sails  northward  through  the  Upper  Bay  Brooklyn 
(PP-  397-448)  lies  to  the  E.  and  Jersey  City  (pp.  4S3-457'i  to  the  W., 
while  New  York  lies  straight  ahead  to  the  N. 

The  only  water  inlet  on  the  E.  side  is  Gowanus  Bay  (PI.  A — C4). 
On   the   W.    side   betw.    Jersey   and    Staten    Island    is   the   water   way 


ENTERING  BY  STEAMSHIP  105 

KUl  van  Kull,  giving  access  to  Newark  Bay  on  which  are  situated 
Elisdbethport  And  Newark  (PI.  A — ^A4).  The  Upper  Bay  is  about  4  m. 
wide  and  8  m.  long,  and  contains  an  area  of  14  sq.  m.  safe  anchorage. 

Nearly  in  mid-channel  lies  Liberty  or  Bedloe's  Island 
(PI.  A — C4)  with  the  gigantic  **Statue  of  Liberty.  (Steam- 
ers from  the  Battery  every  hour.  Round  fare,  25c.)  The  island 
is  federal  property  and  a  signal  corps  is  stationed  here.  The 
broad,  star-shaped  foundation  of  the  statue  was  formerly 
Fort  Wood,  2L  military  post.  Liberty  Enlightening  the  World, 
as  the  statue  used  to  be  called  was  the  work  of  the  French 
sculptor  August e  Bartholdi.  It  was  erected  in  1886,  and 
was  a  gift  from  the  French  nation,  to  commemorate  the 
centenary  of  American  independence.  The  pedestal  was 
designed  by  R.  M.  H^nt,  the  money  for  it  being  raised  by 
popular  subscription  in  the  United  States.  The*  dimensions 
of  the  statue  are:  foundation  to  torch,  305  ft.  6  in.;  base 
to  torch,  131  ft.  6  in. ;  length  of  hand,  16  ft.  5  in.  The 
statue  faces  the  sea,  welcoming  incoming  ships. 

Follow  the  main  path  from  dock  to  statue,  entering  a  doorway  in 
the  embankment,  follow  the  dark  passagofi^ay  to  stairway  to  the  outside 
or  to  Elevator.    The  stairway  leads  to  a  pleasant  terrace. 

The  elevator  runs,  9:30-12;  12:30-6:15,  except  Sat.,  Sun.,  and  hoi., 
when  it  begins  at  10:30.  Above  the  balcony,  the  ascent  is  by  a  circular 
stairway  to  the  head.  From  here,  and  from  the  balcony  is  a  fine  view. 
The  lower  end  of  Manhattan  is  seen  from  a  picturesque  angle,  the 
Singer  Tower  and  the  Woolworth  Building  are  prominent;  turning 
always  to  the  left  we  see  Ellis  Island  with  the  Jersey  coast  in  the  back- 
ground; Jersey,  with  the  peninsula  on  which  is  situated  Bayonne  in 
the  foreground;  Staten  Island  in  the  distance;  the  Narrows;  Long  Island, 
with  the  elevation  of  Fort  Hamilton,  Governor's  Island  in  the  fore- 
ground; Brooklyn  Bridge.  ("History  of  Bartholdi's  Statue,"  loc,  for 
sale  at  souvenir  stand  on  the  first  floor  of  the  statue.) 

Somewhat  to  the  E.  nearer  the  city,  is  a  low,  filled-in 
island,  originally  65  A.  but  enlarged  to  120  A.,  called 
Governor's  Island.  It  is  now  Federal  property  and  the 
headquarters  of  the  eastern  division .  of  the  United  States 
army  is  located  here.  Visitors  must  secure  a  pass  by  writ- 
ing to  the  post-adjutant.  Government  Ferry,  New  York  City 
(near  South  Ferry)  several  days  in  advance.  The  island  is 
reached  by  ferry  from  the  Battery. 

This  island  was  originally  called  Pagganck  by  the  Indians,  from 
whom  Governor  Wouter  Van  Twiller  bought  it  in  1637.  He  used  it 
as  a  goat-pasture  and  erected  a  saw-mill.  It  was  named  Nooten  or 
Nut  Island  by  the  Dutch,  and  did  not  acquire  its  present  name  until 
1698,  when  it  was  set  aside  by  the  Assembly  for  tne  benefit  of  royal 
governors.  It  became  a  part  of  Niew  York  City  in  1730,  and  from 
1790  on  was  for  a  time  in  the  possession  of  Columbia  College.*  le 
1800  it  was  ceded  to  the  Federal  Government,  and  has  been  a  military 
headquarters  since  1821. 

The  round  brick  building  prominent  from  the  water  is  Casth  WU- 
liatn,  built  1809- iz  and  used  in  the  War  of  1812,  now  a  military  prison. 


io6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  main  building  is  Fort  Jay,  formerly  called  Fort  Columbus.  At  the 
S. .  end  of  the  original  land  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Cornelius^  one  of  the 
Trinity  Parish  chapels,  containing  battle  flags. 

Ellis  Island  (PI.  A — C4)  is  made  up  of  three  islands 
joined  by  causeways.  The  Federal  government  bought  the  land 
from  the  state  in  1808,  using  it  first  as  a  magazine  site.  In 
1891  the  immigrant  station  was  placed  here.  The  present 
buildings  date  from  1897.  Although  it  is  officially  stated  that 
visitors  can  receive  permission  by  written  application  to  the 
Commissioner,  yet  as  a  matter  of  fact  it  is  necessary  only  to 
apply  for  a  pass  at  the  ferry  slip,  on  one's  way.  The  island 
is  closed  to  visitors  Sundays  and  holidays.  The  government 
ferry  leaves  from  the  southernmost  point  of  the  Battery.  The 
waiting  rootn  and  dock  are  entered  by  the  last  door  in  the 
curved  brick*  building  with  the  cloister  front.  (Ferry  leaves 
10,  II,  12,  I,  and  2;  returns  at  10:30,  11:30,  12:30,  1^30,  2=30, 
and  3:30.) 

Third  class  passengers  are  transferred  from  the  ocean  liners  at 
their  docks,  on  to  barges  and  brought  to  the  island  for  examination. 
They  usually  arrive  an  hour  ^r  two  after  the  ship  has  docked.  The 
main  buildings  are  on  the  noftherly  island  and  the  Visitors'  Entrance 
is  plainly  marked.  Guides  are  no  longer  furnished  at  the  office^  but 
signs  and  explanatory  statements  are  posted  everywhere.  The  visitor 
first  ascends  the  staircase  to  the  gallery  surrounding[  the  Main  Hall. 
The  immigrants  come  into  the  hall  from  the  large  stairway  at  the  east 
end  of  the  room  passing  in  long  lines  bv  the  inspectors.  ^  From  the 
gallery  a  good  view  of  proceedings  is  obtained.  If  the  immigrant's 
credentials  and  health  are  satisfactory  he  goes  on  to  the  railroad  room. 
If  his  desirability  is  questionable  or  if  destination  is  uncertain,  he  is 
held  for  further  investigation.  If  it  is  finally  decided  that  he  cannot 
enter  the  country  he  is  sent  back  by  the  steamship  company  that 
brought  him. 

Opening  upon  the  gallery  arc  some  of  the  Dormitories  where  the 
detained  immigrants  sleep.     The  visitor  returns  to  the  main  floor  and 

Sroceeds  through  the  door  marked  "Special  Inquiry  Division,  Deporting 
>ivision,  Immigrants'  Dining  Room"  to  see  the  Dining  Room,  at  the 
end  of  the  passage.  This  part  of  the  building  is  closed  to  visitors  dur- 
ing the  noon  hour  from  11:45  to  1:30.  Detained  immigrants  are  fed 
here  at  the  expense  of  the  steamship  companies.  Bills  of  fare  are 
posted  to  show  the  kinds  of  food. 

Beyond  are  the  Large  Dormitories  (also  closed  betw.  11:45  and 
1:30).  Friends  of  detained  immigrants  are  allowed  to  call  upon  them 
here. 

The  immigrant  who  passes  the  official  inspection,  goes  on  to  the 
Railroad  Rooms  on  floor  below  the  main  examination  hall.  (Descend 
the  staircase  in  the  N.W.  corner.)  In  one  room  tickets  are  sold  to  all 
points  in  the  United  States  and  Canada  and  the  interests  of  the 
stranger  are  closely  safeguarded.  Beyond  is  a  waiting  room  from  which 
the  immigrants  are  taken  to  the  different  railroad  stations.  Food  is 
sold  here  under  government  supervision  for  those  who  wish  a  supply  to 
eat  on  the  train. 

The  visitor  returns  from  the  waiting  room,  through  the  ticket 
office,  and  continues,  by  the  offices  of  the  missionaries  and  immi|n'ant 
societies,  to  the  Information  Department  (sign  over  the  door).  Friends 
meeting  immigrants  or  seeking  information  concerning  them  come  here. 


ENTERING  BY  STEAMSHIP  107 

Beyond  are  the  Waiting  Rooms  where  immigrants  and  friends  meet. 
This  is,  next  to  the  examination  hall,  the  most  interesting  part  of  the 
island.  One  of  the  pillars  is  known  as  the  "Kissing  Post."  Any  per- 
son calling  for  an  immigrant  is  subjected  to  a  cross-examination  and 
identity  must  be  proved  oe^^ond  question. 

The  remainder  of  the  island  is  not  open  to  visitors.  It  is  taken 
up  chiefly  by  hospitals.  Although  those  sick  with  contagious  diseases 
are  removed  from  the  ship  at  quarantine,  many  are  left  who  need  tempo- 
rary medical  attention.  The  hospitals  also  receive  those  who  become 
sick  durine  detention.  The  hospitals  are  under  the  care  of  the  United 
States  Public  Health  Service  and  receive  from  eight  to  ten  thousand 
cases  a  year. 

Upper  Bay  is  continued  in  two  rivers;  the  Hudson  river 
(the  lower  part  of  which  is  called  in  a  confusing  manner  the 
North  river)  on  the  W.  and  the  East  River  on  the  E.  The 
two  rivers  together  contain  135/^  sq.  m.  of  anchorage.  The 
tide  rises  and  falls  an  average  of  43  in. 

The  apparent  illogic  of  the  popular  designations,  East  and  North 
Rivers,  is  explained  away  when  we  remember  that  the  names  were 
conferred  at  a  time  when  all  of  New  York  lay  well  below  Grand  st. 
(the  point  where  East  River  turns  N.),  and  consequently,  while  the 
incoming  tide  flows  N.  in  the  Hudson,  it  flows  at  the  start  almost  due 
E.  in  the  East  River. 

As  the  steamer  rounds  the  Battery  (PI.  II — B6)a  splendid  ••View 
of  the  high  buildings  of  Lower  Broadway  is  obtained,  with  Brooklyn 
Bridge  to  the  E.  As  the  vessel  proceods  up  the  North  (Hudson 
river)  the  buildings  which  stand  out  most  clearly  are  the  high 
cupola  of  the  Singer  Building,  the  towering,  white,  cathedral-like  Wool- 
worth  Building,  the  massive,  towered  Municipal  Building^  behind,  the 
square  twin  structures  of  the  Hudson  River  Tunnel  Terminal,  and  the 
gilded  dome  of  the  Pulitser  Building.  , 

Arrival  at  the  Pier.  Custom  house  formalities  are  ex- 
plained on  p.  36  for  the  benefit  of  strangers  arriving  in 
New  York  by  sea.  Steamships  dock  in  Manhattan,  New  Jer- 
sey or  South  Brooklyn.  All  the  main  steamship  landings 
in  Manhattan  are  near  surface,  elevated,  or  subway  lines  (p. 
29)  and  numerous  hacks  and  taxicabs  are  always  in  waiting. 
(See  Hack  and  Taxicab  rates,  p.  28.)  Transfer  Agents 
(see  p.  2)  are  also  on  hand  to  receive  trunks  and  forward 
them  to  any  address  (40-7SC. ;  not  always  delivered  the  same 
day). 

The  principal  steamship  lines  with  docks  in  Manhattan  are:  Cunard 
Line,  Piers  53-56  North  River  (ft.  of  W.  14th  st.);  French  Line,  Pier  57 
N.  River  (ft.  of  W.  15th  st,);  Atlantic  Transport  Line,  Pier  58  (ft. 
of  W.  i6th  St.);  Red  Star  Line,  Pier  59  (ft.  of  W.  i8th  St.):  White 
Star  Line,  Pier  60  (ft.  of  W.  19th  St.);  American  Line,  Pier  62  (ft. 
W.  22d  St.);  Anchor  Line,  Pier  64  (ft.  W.  24th  St.).  All  these  lines, 
except  the  last  named,  occupy  the  modern  and  commodious  series  of 
docks  known  as  the  Chelsea  Improvement  (p.  238) ;  passengers  landing 
here  can  conveniently  reach  any  of  the  Elevated  or  Subway  lines  by 
taking  a  23d  or  14th  st.  crosstown  surface  car  (the  14th  st.  cars  pass 
all  these  docks,  starting  frpm  23d  st.).  The  following  Italian  lines 
dock  at  Pier  74  North  River  (ft.  34th  st.) :  La  Veloce  Line,  Italia 
Line,  Navigazione  Generale  Italiana  Line,  and  Lloyd  Italiano  Line. 
Passengers  landing  he^e  may  take  a  34th  st.  crosstown  car,  changing 
to  subway,  elevated  or  surface  line,  as  desired. 


io8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  steamship  lines  which  dock  in  Hoboken  are:  the  Hamburg- 
American'  Line,  ft.  of  ist  St.:  the  North  German-Lloyd  Line,  ft.  of 
3d  St.;  the  Holland- American  Line,  ft.  5th  St.;  Wilson  Line^  ft.  7th  st. 
Passengers  may  most  conveniently  reach  Manhattan  by  taking  Hudson 
and  Manhattan  Tunnels  (station  reached  by  walking  S.  on  River  st. 
to  Hudson  pi. ),  either  to  Cortlandt  st.  or  33d  st.  Terminal.  Scandina- 
vian Line,  ft.  of  17th  st.  Take  ferry  to  Desbrosses  St.,  then  Desbrosses 
and  6th  ave.  surface  car  to  6th  ave.  and  4th  St.;  change  to  6th  ave. 
surface  line,  or  take  Elevated  at  8th  st. 

The  following  lines  dock  in  South  Brooklyn:  Fabre  Line,  ft.  of 
31st  St.;  Austro-American  Line,  ft.  of  42d  st.  Passengers  may  either 
walk  four  blocks  E.  and  take  5th  ave.  Elevated  to  Manhattan  end  of 
Brooklyn  Bridge  (changing  to  Subway  or  3d  ave.  Elevated),  or  take 
39th  St.  ferry  to  foot  of  Whitehall  st.  (the  Battery),  within  a  few  tteps 
of  all  Elevated  and  Subway  lines. 

II.    Via  Long  Island  Sound  Steamboats 

The  traveler  arriving  at  New  York  by  way  of  the  Long 
Island  Sound  steamboats  traverses  the  Sound  for  115  M.  be- 
fore entering  the  East  River  (PI.  I — Ci-6). 

Long  Island  is  on  the  S.  and  on  the  N.  is  Connecticut  the  greater 
part  of  the  way.  The  New  York  State  line  comes  just  before  Port 
Chester.  New  York  City  begins  at  Pelham  Bay  Park  (PI.  A— Fa — 3). 
On  the  New  York  side  (right  hand)  are  Pelham  Bay  (PI.  A — Fa)  and 
East  Chester  Bay  (PI.  A — Fa) ,  and  on  the  Long  Island  side  (left  hand) , 
Manhasset  Bay,  and  Little  Neck  Bay.  Huckleberry  Island  (PI.  A~Fa) 
and  David  Island  lie  outside  the  city  limits.  Within  the  city  limits 
are  Hart's  Island  (PI.  A — Fa)  Hunter's  Island  and  City  Island,  (p. 
391)  described  in  connection  with  Pelham  Bay  Park  (p.  390-  On  the 
Long  Island  side  is  Manha.^set  Neck  terminating  in  Sand'^  Point, 
with  a  lighthouse  (fixed  white  light).  To  the  S.  Great  Neck  (PI.  A— 
Fa),   terminating   in   Hewlett  Point. 

The  vessel  enters  the  East  River  (PI.  A. — F3)  betw. 
Willet's  Point  (PI.  A— F3)  on  the  Long  Island  side,  with 
Fort  Totten  (p.  xviii)  and  Throgg's  Neck  (PI.  A — F3)  on 
the  New  York  side  with  Fort  Schuyler  (p.  390).  The  East 
River  is  really  a  tidal  channel  connecting  the  sound  with 
Upper  Bay. 

We  pass  Old  Ferry  Point  (PI.  A—E3)  on  the  right;  IVhitestone 
Point  (PI.  A— F3)  on  the  left;  Classon  Point  (PI.  A— E3)  on  the 
right;  College  Point  (PI.  A — E3)  on  the  left;  before  the  river  widens 
out  with  Flushing  Bay  (PI.  A — E3)  on  the  left,  with  the  town  of 
Flushing  (PI.  A— Ej).  The  large  island  is  Hiker's  (PI.  XI— F7)  and 
the  other  small  ones  are  the  Brothers  (PI.  A — E3)  and  Berrian.  The 
river  now  narrows  somewhat  and  the  shores  are  filled  with  city  build- 
ings. The  Harlem  River  (PI.  XI — A3-C8)  enters  the  East  River  at 
Bronx  Kills   (PI.  A— E3). 

The  three  islands  following  are  given  over  entirely  to 
charitable  and  corrective  institutions:  Randall's,  Ward's  and 
BlackwelVs.  For  permission  to  visit  charitable  institutions 
apply  to  Department  of  Charities  at  the  foot  of  26th  st.  For 
permission  to  visit  corrective  institutions  apply  to  Department 
of  Corrections,  124  Leonard  st 


ENTERING  BY   SOUND   STEAMBOATS         109 

Randall's  Island  contains  about  100  A.  Here  during  the  Revolu- 
tionary War,  in  1776,  250  Americans  unsuccessfully  attemoted  to  cap- 
ture a  British  camp.  The  name  comes  from  Jonathan  Randall  who 
bought  the  Island  in  1784.  In  1835  the  city  bought  it  of  him  for  $50.- 
000.  The  island  is  now  eiven  up  to  the  care  of  children.  At  the  N. 
end  are  the  Children's  Hospital,  Feeble-minded  schools  and  Custodial 
Asylums. 

The  channel  S.  of  Randall's  is  called  Little  Hell  Gate.  The  reef 
to  the  E.  is  Sunken  Meadow  (PI.  XI — D8).  At  E.  112th  st.  is  a  city 
Recreation  Pier  in  connection  with  Thomas  Jefferson  Park  (15.5  AV 

Ward's  Island  (PI.  I — Ci)  reached  by  ferry  from  ft.  of  E.  11 6th  St., 
was  occupied  by  the  British  in  1776.  After  the  Revolution  it  was 
bought  by  the  Ward  brothers,  Jasper  and  Bartholomew.  It  was  at 
one  time  the  city  Potter's  Field.  It  now  contains  a  state  hospital  for 
the  insane.  The  visiting  hours  of  the  Manhattan  State  Hospital  are  Sat., 
Sun.,  Mon.,  from  i  to  2.  (Permission  to  visit  and  information  concern- 
ing terries  should  be  obtained  from  the  city  offices  at  i  Madison  ave.) 

The  point  of  land  on  the  Long  Island  side  is  Hallett's  Point 
with  Hallett's  Cove  to  the  S. 

The  River  Channel  betw.  Ward's  Island  and  Blackwell's 
Island  is  called  Hell  Gate  (PI.  I — Di),  probably  called  from 
the  Dutch  expression  Helle-gat.  This  was  an  extremely  dan- 
gerous passage  in  early  times.  The  worst  of  the  hidden  reefs 
have  been  blasted  out  by  the  government.  The  work- of 
clearing  the  channel  began  in  185 1.  The  largest  rock  half 
way  between  the  two  islands  is  known  as  Mill  Rock  and  the 
one  just  S.  of  Ward's  Island,  as  Hog  Back, 

^*The  New  York  Connecting  Railroad  Bridge  over  Hell 

Gate  from  the  Astoria  section  of  Queens,  crossing  Ward's  and 

Randall's  Islands  to  the  Port  Morris  region  of  the  Bronx, 

is  now  in  process  of  construction. 

Starting  from  the  yard  of  the  N.  Y.,  N.  H.  and  H.  R.  R.  at  I4ad 
St.,  Bronx,  the  line  is  to  cross  the  Bronx  Kills  by  a  lift  bridge  300  ft. 
long.  It  will  then  be  carried  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Randall's 
Island  by  a  viaduct  half  a  mile  in  length  to  Little  Hell-  Gate  which 
will  be  crossed  by  a  bridge  1,000  ft.  long  to  Ward's  Island.  Across 
this  the  road  will  run  on  a  viaduct  2600  ft.  in  length  to  Hell  Gate, 
where  will  be  erected  the  most  massive  bridge  structure  in  this  countnr. 
It  will  have  huge  granite  piers,  2^0  ft.  high,  and  a  span  of  1,0x7  it. 
The  height  above  mean  water  will  be  150  ft.  The  great  steel  structure, 
rising  in  a  parabolic  arch,  will  be  designed  for  tour  tracks,  two  for 
passen^r  trains  and  two  for  freight.  From  the  Long  Island  end  of 
the  bridge,  the  tracks  will  continue  to  the  Sunnyside  yards  of  *the 
L.  I.  R.  R.  in  Long  Island  City,  through  Queens  and  the  East  New 
York  section  of  Brooklyn,  to  tne  waterfront  at  6th  St.  A  future 
tunnel  may  connect  with  Staten  Island.  Passenser  connection  betw. 
the  Pennsylvania  system  and  the  New  Haven  will  be  by  the  tunnels 
of  the  former  from  New  Jersey  to  Long  Island,  and  uience  bjr  the 
Connecting  Railroad  to  Port  Morris.  The  structure  from  Astoria  to 
Port  Morris  will  be  three  miles  in  length,  and  the  estimated  cost  is 
$30,000,000. 

The  long  narrow  island  is  Blackw ell's  Island  (PL  I — C2- 
3).  Except  Sundays  and  holidays,  city  ferries,  available  only 
to  passengers  with  passes,  leave  the  foot  of  £.  26th  St.,  10, 


no  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

9 

10:30,  II,  12,  1:30,  2:30,  and  3:30;  Saturday  afternoon,  1:30 
and  2  only;  leave  E.  53d  st,  E.  70th  St.,  E.  120th,  E.  125th  st. 
daily  every  half  hour  from  7 130  to  12  p.  m.  (Visiting  hours, 
Sunday  11  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. ;  Wednesdays,  Saturdays,  2  to  4 
p.  m.)  The  island  extends  from  50th  st.  to  86th  st.,  and  con- 
tains 120  A. 

The  Indian  name  was  Minnahanonck  or  Long  Island.  When 
it  was  granted  to  Captain  John  Manning,  in  1664,  the  name  was 
changed  to  Manning's  Island.  His  step-daughter  who  inherited  it,  mar- 
ried Robert  Blackwell.  The  city  bought  it  in  1828  for  $<;0f00o.  The 
island  is  surrounded  by  granite  sea  walls  and  most  of  the  buildings  are 
of  granite,  erected  by  convict  labor.  At  the  extreme  south  end  of  the 
Island  is  the  Training  School  for  Nurses.  The  first  large  building  at 
the  N.  end  of  the  island  is  the  Mettopolitan  Hospital,  with  its  pavilions. 
Tubercular  patients  are  treated  here.  The  Gothic  stone  building,  with 
wide  wings  near  the  middle  of  the  island,  facing  the  river,  is  the 
Workhouse,  to  which  are  sent  men  and  women  convicted,  in  the 
MajB^strates'  Courts,  of  misdemeanors,  vagrancy,  and  disorderly  conduct 
ana  sentenced  to  terms  from  ten  days  to  six  months.  The  construc- 
tion of  the  building  is  as  mediaeval  within  as  without,  extremely  pic- 
turesque, but  frightfully  over-crowded  and  at  best  ill-adapted  to  benefit 
the  prisoners  sent  here  for  correction.  To  the  S.  are  the  many  buildings 
of  the  Neuf  York  City  Home  for  the  Aged  and  Infirm.  About  a  third 
of  the  inmates  are  bed-ridden.  Special  wards  are  set  aside  for  the 
blind  and  the  incurable.  The  next  buildings  are  the  Penitentiary,  where 
are*  sent  male  and  female  prisoners,  convicted  of  minor  crimes  and  mis- 
demeanors, and  committed  by  the  Justices  of  Gen.  Sessions  and  Special 
Sessions.  The  Ci^y  Hospital,  which  with  the  Metropolitan  Hospital  at 
the  N.  end,  receives  general  adult  hospital  cases,  occupies  the  S.  end 
of  the  island. 

The  **Queenshoro  Bridge  (PI.  I— C3)  first  called  Black- 
well's  Island  Bridge,  crosses  the  island  near  the  lower  end.  It 
is,  unlike  the  other  East  River  bridges  to  the  south,  not  a 
suspension,  but  a  continuous  cantilever  bridge  with  its  central 
towers  resting  on  Blackwell's  Island.  It  extends  from  2d  ave. 
at  59th  St.,  Manhattan,  to  Jackson  ave.,  Long  Island  City.  (The 
Manhattan  entrance  is  reached  by  the  2d  ave.  elevated  to 
57th  St. ;  tne  3d  ave.  elevated  to  59th  st. ;  or  surface  cars.)  It 
is  next  to  the  largest  cantilever  bridge  in  the  world  and  has  the 
largest  carrying  capacity. 

Its  length  is  8,600  ft.,  inclusive  of  the  Queensboro  Plaza,  an  addi- 
tional len^h  of  II 52  ft.  The  length  of  the  spans  are:  W.  channel, 
1 1 82  ft.;  island,  630  ft.:  E.  channel,  984.  Clear  height  of  bridge  for 
channel  width  of  400  ft.  (both  channels),  135  ft.  above  mean  hi^h 
water.  It  has  been  estimated  that  the  steel  and  iron  used  in  the  main 
bridge  weighs  upward  of  54*200  tons,  and  inclusive  of  the  approaches. 
74,000.  It  was  built  1 90 1 -9,  and  cost  $17,900,000  for  construction  and 
land. 

S.  of  the  island  the  Belmont  Tunnel  (PI.  I — C3)  now  in 
operation,  and  the  Pennsylvania  Tunnels  (PI.  I — Q4)  run  be- 
neath the  river. 

From  29th  St.  S.  to  25th  st.  are  the  buildings  of  Bellevue 
and  Allied  Hospitals   (PI.  I— C4;  p.  225). 


ENTERING  BY   SOUND   STEAMBOATS        in 

At  24th*  St.  is  a-  public  Recreation  Pier. 
Around  17th  st.  are  city  hospitals  for  contagious  disease 
(PL  I— C4;  p.  224). 

Recreation  Piers  jut  out  from  each  side  beyond;  irom 
Metropolitan  ave.  in  Brooklyn  and  from  E.  3d  st.  in 
Manhattan. 

The  ^Williamsburg  Bridge  (PI.  I— D5)  betw.  the  Man- 
hattan and  the  Queensboro,  extends  from  Delancey  and 
Clinton  sts.,  Manhattan,  to  a  large  Plaza  in  Brookl}^  at  the 
junction  of  Broadway  and  Havemeyer  st.  (The  Manhattan 
entrance  is  reached  by  surface  cars  only.)  The  construction 
was  carried  on  during  the  years  1896-1903. 

It  is  7308  ft.  long,  with  a  middle  span  of  x6oo  feet,  and  two  side 
spans  of  596  ft.  each.  It  carries  two  roadways,  each  20  ft.  wide, 
and  two  footwalks,  each  17  ft.  S  in.  wide.  In  laving  the  foundations 
for  the  towers,  it  was  found  necessary,  before  finding  bedrock,  to  sink 
the  caissons  to  an  unusual  depth:  the  N.  and  S.  caissons  on  the  Man- 
hattan side  descending,  respectively,  55  and  66  ft.  below  mean  high 
water,  and  those  on  the  Brooklyn  side  107  and  91  ft.  The  clear  heif^t 
of  bridge  for  channel  width  of  400  ft.  is  the  same  as  the  Queensboro 
Bridge,  135  ft.  The  construction  cost  $14,000,000  and  the  land 
$9,100,000.  During  the  spring  of  1914  ^  most  interesting  feat  of 
engineering  was  performed  on  this  bridge.  The  9-inch  pins  were 
removed  and  12-inch  ones  inserted  to  take  their  places,  in  order  to 
strengthen  the  bridge  to  meet  the  increased  railroad  traffic.  The  work 
was  done  at  midnight,  when  it  would  least  interfere  with  traffic. 

Below  on  the  Brooklyn  side  opens  Wallabout  Bay 
(PL  III— Bi)  with  the  United  States  Navy  Yard  (p.  439). 

^Manhattan  Bridge  (PI.  I— C6)  to  the  N.  of  Brooklyn 
Bridge,  built  in  1901-11,  has  now  the  distinction  of  being  the 
greatest  suspension  bridge  in  the  world.  It  extends  from  the 
Bowery  and  Canal  st.,  in  Manhattan,  to  Nassau  and  Bridge 
sts.,  in  Brooklyn.  (Manhattan  entrance  may  be  reached  by 
the  3rd  ave.  elevated  to  Canal  St.;  or  by  surface  cars  on  the 
Bowery  or  Canal  st.) 

The  bridge  is  of  double-deck  design,  the  first  deck  having  a  35-foot 
roadway  in  the  center,  two  subwav  tracks  on  each  side,  and  11 -foot 
footwalk  on  each  side,  the  top  deck  having  four  trolley  tracks.  It  is 
6,855  ft.  long  (about  x  1-3  m.),  with  a  main  span  of  1,470  ft.  It 
has  steel  towers.  The  center  span  is  135  ft.  above  the  water  in  the 
middle.  The  entire  cost  was  $26,000,000  dollars,  the  construction 
amounting  to  $14,000,000,  and  the  land  costing  $8,000,000  on  the 
Manhattan  side  and  $4,000,000  on  the  Brooklyn  side. 

**Brooklyn  Bridge  (PI.  I — C6)  extending  from  City  Hall 
Park,  Manhattan,  to  Fulton  and  Sands  sts.,  Brooklyn,  is  the 
oldest  and  most  beautiful  of  the  four  great  bridges  connecting 
Manhattan  and  Long  Island.  (The  Manhattan  entrance  may 
be  reached  by  subway  to  Brooklyn  Bridge ;  by  2nd  or  3rd  ave. 


112  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

elevated  lines,  changing  at  Chatham  square;  by  the  6th  ave. 
elevated  to  Chambers  St.,  walk  two  blocks;  by  the  9th  ave. 
elevated  to  Warren  st.,  walk  3  blocks;  by  Broadway  surface 
cars.)  The  ♦View  from  the  bridge  is  one  of  the  sights  of 
the  city;  Manhattan  lying  on  the  W.,  Long  Island  on  the  E., 
to  the  N.  the  crowded  East  River,  and  to  the  S.  the  Upper 
Harbor.  By  night  the  scene  is  even  more  beautiful  with 
thousands  of  lights  shining  from  the  great  buildings  and 
towers  on  land  and  moving  with  the  ferries  and  vessels  in  the 
river  and  harbor. 

The  bridge  was  opened  in  1883.  The  orig;inal  cost  of  construction 
was  $15,000,000.  It  was  orieinally  a  toll  bridge,  but  now  only  the 
street  cars  pay  toll.  Nearly  xour  thousand  trolley  cars  and  the  same 
■number  of  elevated  cars  cross  dail^.  Although  it  was  once  the  greatest 
suspension  bridjge  in  the  world,  it  ia  now  surpassed  in  size  oy  the 
other  three  bridges.  The  river  span  is  1,595  ft.  6  in.,  each  land  span 
930  ft,  the  Brooklyn  approach  098  ft.,  and  the  Manhattan  approach 
1^562  ft.,  giving  a  total  length  of  6,016  ft.  The  depth  of  the  founda- 
tion below  high  water  is  45  ft.  on  the  Brooklyn  side  and  78  ft.  on 
the  Manhattan  side,  and  the  height  of  the  stone  towers  is  272  ft.  above 
the  water.  The  center  span  clears  the  water  by  135  ft.  in  the  middle. 
The  diameter  of  the  cables  is  x^K  .inches,  and  each  contains  5>^96 
parallel,  galvanized  steel,  oil-coated  wires. 

Many  of  the  sound  steamers  have  their  docks  in  this  vicinity.  (For 
landing  and  transportation  see  p.  i  and  28).  The  Fall  River  and  Provi- 
dence lines  round  the  Battery  and  dock  in  the  North  (Hudson)  River. 
(For  description  of  Battery  and  Upper  Bay  see  p.  119  and  104). 

III.    Via  Hudson  River  Steamboat 

This  trip,  if  made  in  the  daytime,  affords  by  far  the 
most  picturesque  and  historically  interesting  of  all  the  ap- 
proaches to  New  York  City.  The  visitor  passes  for  miles 
within  sight  of  highest  peaks  of  the  Catskill  Mountains  (on 
W.),  among  which  Washington  Irving  laid  the  scenes  of 
"Rip  Van  Winkle."  Presently,  we  pass,  on  the  L.,  Pough- 
keepsie,  known  most  widely  as  the  home  of  that  pioneer 
women's  college,  Vassar  College.  At  West  Point  is  the 
U.  S.  Military  Academy,  situated  on  a  picturesque  plateau, 
just  at  the  foot  of  Croufs  Nest  (1428  ft.),  where  Joseph 
Rodman  Drake  laid  the  scene  of  *'The  Culprit  Fay"  (p.  389). 

Further  S.  the  promontory  of  Anthony's  Nose  (E.  shore),  and 
Dunderberg  Mountain  (W.  shore),  form  the  southern  gates  of  the 
Highlands.  It  was  here,  while  breakfasting  in  a  house  on  the  £.  shore, 
that  Benedict  Arnold  received  the  news  of  Andre's  arrest.  It  is  at 
the  foot  of  Dunderberg  Mountain  that  Captain  Kidd  is  supposed  to 
have  buried  some  of  his  treasure.  In  Haverstraw,  just  below,  Arnold 
and  Andr6  met  to  arrange  for  the  surrender  of  West  Point,  and  it  was 
after  crossing  the  river  irom  here  that  Andr^  was  captured.  Diagonally 
across  from  Haverstraw  is  Ossining,  earlier  Jmown  as  Sing  Sing,  a 
name  still  preserved  in  the  State  prison  there  situated.  Here  the 
river  widens  into  the  Tap^an  Zee,  its  widest  point  (4  miles)  being 
opposite  Tarrytown,   the  vicinity   of  which   has  been   immortalized  in 


ENTERING  BY  RAILROAD  113 

Washington  Irving's  "Sketch-Book."  Irvington,  just  S.  of  Tarrytown, 
was  formerly  Washington  Irving's  home;  the  old  house  is  still  stand- 
ing. Four  miles  S.,  across  the  river,  is  Tappan,  where  Washington 
had  his  headquarters,  and  where  Major  Andre  was  executed,  Oct.  2, 
17S0.  Five  miles  S.,  on  the  E.  side  is  Yonkers  (p.  393).  From  the 
Tappan  Zee  S.,  the  chief  object  of  interest,  for  a  stretch  of  20  miles, 
is  the  500-foot  precipice  of  the  famous  Palisades,  on  the  W.  bank  (a 
formation  of  trap-rock,  commercially  valuable  lor  macadam  roads), 
which  ha^e  now  been  saved  from  threatened  destruction  by  being 
converted  into  a  state  park. 

Below  Yonkers,  the  steamboat  passes  Mt.  St.  Vincent,  containing 
the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  amon^  whose  buildings  is  a  granite 
structure,  with  six  octagonal  towers,  originally  built  by  Edwin  Forrest, 
the  tragedian,  for  a  dramatic  school   (an  unfulfilled  dream). 

Just  below,  at  Spuyten  Duyvil,  where  the  creek  of  that  name 
formerly  emptied,  is  now  the  western  opening  of  the  United  States 
Ship  Canal  (p.  357),  forming  a  channel  through  the  Harlem  River, 
between  the  Hudson  River  and  Long  Island  Sound.  ^  To  the  S.  rises 
the  lofty  wooded  knoll  of  Inwood,  the  northern  be£;inning  of  Manhattan 
Island. 

The  steamboat  presently  passes  (L.)  the  long  stretch  of  Riverside 
Drive  Park  and  Extension,  lined  with  costly  residences  and  apartment 
houses.  The  historic  "Hollow  Way,"  at  129th  st.  (p.  343),  now  spanned 
by  a  lofty  viaduct,  may  be  plainly  seen  from  the  river.  Just  below 
at  123d  St.,  is  the  square,  conical-roofed  structure  of  General 
Grant's  Tomb  (p.  253).  Diagonally  across  the  river  looms  up  con- 
spicuously the  flaunting  sign  of  the  Palisades  Amusement  Park  (reached 
by  the  Fort  Lee  Ferry).  Opposite  ^26.  st.  is  Weehawken  (p.  460), 
where  Alexander  Hamilton  was  killed  in  a  duel,  by  Aaron  Burr.  From 
this  point  southward,  the  skyline  of  lower  K«w  York  with  its  soaring 
structures  may  be  seen  even  more  advantageously  than  from  the  Bay. 
At  3 2d  St.  the  tubes  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  pass  beneath  the  river. 
On  the  Manhattan  side,  £rom  23  d  to  14  sts.,  stretches  the  system  of 
huge  docks  known  as  the  Chelsea  Improvement  (p.  2:^),  occupied  by 
the  American,  Red  Star,  White  Star,  Cunard  and  other  transatlantic 
Lines.  Across  the  river,  at  Hoboken,  is  another  series  of  big  docks, 
housing  the  Hamburg-American  and  North  German  Lloyd  Lines.  The 
Hudson  River  Day  Line  and  the  Night  Line  of  the  Hudson  Navigation 
Company  both  make  stops  at  129th  st.  (take  crosstown  125th  st.  trolley- 
car,  connecting  with  Subway  and  Elevated  systems  for  downtown 
points) ;  the  Day  Line  also  stops  at  42d  st.  (trolley-car  connecting  with 
Elevated  and  Subway).  The  terminal  docks  of  the  two  lines  are, 
respectively,  Nos.  29  and  32  North  River,  near  Desbrosses  st.  (Des- 
brosses  st.  trolley<ar  to  6th  ave.  and  4th  st.,  then  uptown  by  surface 
or  Elevated  cars). 

IV.    Via  Railroad 

The  only  railroad  stations  on  Manhattan  Island  in  which 
the  traveler  is  interested  are  the  Grand  Central  Station  (see 
p.  114)  and  Penn.  Station  (see  p.  116). 

The^  depots  of  the  other  great  railway  systems  are  on  the  New 
jersey  side  of  the  North  River,  and  passengers  are  conveyed  to  and 
from  them  by  large  ferryboats  or  by  the  Hudson  Tunnels  (see  p.  35). 
The  ferry  houses,  however,  furnish  the  same  opportunities  tor  the 
purchase  of  tickets,  checking  bag;gage,  etc.,  as  the  railway  stations,  and 
the  times  of  departure  and  arrival  of  trains  by  these  lines  are  given 
with  reference  to  the  New  York  side  of  the  river. — Pennsylvania  Kail- 


114  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

road,  Jersey  City  Depot  (PI.  I — ^A6),  Montgomery  st.,  Jersey  City, 
reached  by  ferries  from  Desbrosses  st.  (PI.  I — B5),  Cortlandt  st.  (PI. 
I — B6),  and  by  Hudson  Tunnels  (see  p.  35),  used  by  trains  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Railroad  (for  all  points  in  the  West  and  South),  and  also 
by  the  Long  Branch  Railroads.  P'or  new  station  in  New  York,  see  p. 
116 — Erie  Railroad  Depot  (PI.  I — A5),  Pa vonia  ave.,  Jersey  City,  reached 
by  ferries  from  Chambers  st.  and  W.  23rd  St.,  and  the  Hudson  Tunnels, 
used  by  the  Erie  Railroad  and  its  branches,  the  New  York,  Susquehanna 
and  Western,  the  Northern  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  New  Jersey 
and  New  York  R.  R.—West  Shore  station  (PI.  I— A3),  Weehawken, 
reached  by  ferries  from  Cortlandt  st.,  W.  42d  st.  (PI.  I — B3), 
used  bv  the  West  Shore  Railroad  (for  the  same  districts  as  the  N.  Y. 
Central  Railroad)  and  the  New  York,  Ontario  &  Western  Railroad. — 
Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western  Station,  Hoboken,  reached  by 
ferries  from  Christopher  (PI.  I — ^Bs),  Barclay,  and  W.  23d  sts.,  or  by 
the  Hudson  Tunnels,  used  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western 
Railroad  (for  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  and  Western  New  York). — 
Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  Depot,  Communipaw,  reached  by 
ferries  from  Liberty 'st.  (PI.  I— B6)  and  W.  23d  sL  (PI.  I — B4),  used 
also  by  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio,  the  Long  Branch,  the  Lehigh  Valley, 
and  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  Railroads. 

For  Brooklyn  station,  see  p.  419;  for  Long  Island  station,  seep.  419. 

a.    Via  New  York,  New  Haven  &   Hartford  R.  R.  {from 
New  England). 

The  visitor  approaching  New  York  from'  the  East  by 
the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  R.  R.  will  have 
many  picturesque  glimpses  of  Long  Island  Sound,  especially 
if  he  comes  by  the  Shore  Line  branch.  The  near  approach  to 
New  York,  however, .  is  without  interest,  the  tracks  being 
sunken  and  running  between  high  concrete  or  masonry  walls. 
The  terminal  in  Manhattan  is  in  the  Grand  Central  Station 
at  42d  St. 

Taxicabs  and  other  conveyances  can,  of  course,  be  secured  at 
any  time.  Visitors  preferring  to  take  a  car,  can  readily  reach  any 
desired  part  of  the  city.  The  426.  st.  station  of  the  Subway  connects 
directly  with  the  Grand  Central  on  the  lower  level. 

The  new  **Grand  Central  Station,  situated  at  42  st,  and 
extending  from  Vanderbilt  ave.  to  Lexington  ave.,  is  the 
greatest  railway  terminal  in  the  world.  It  was  opened  in  1913. 
During  the  time  that  the  new  terminal  was  in  process  of 
construction,  the  traffic  was  so  planned  and  managed,  that  the 
800  trains  were  kept  running  as  usual,  and  from  75,000  to 
125,000  passengers  were  handled  daily.  The  new  terminal 
covers  79  A.,  and  30,000  people  can  be  accommodated  in  the 
public  rooms  at  one  time,  without  crowding. 

The  exterior  finish  is  granite  and  Indiana  limestone.  The  entrance 
to  the  main  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  triumphal  arch  of  monumental 
proportions,  surmounted  b^  a  statuary  ^roup  representing  Pr(^ress 
rising  from  the  American  Eagle,  with  Physical  Force  and  Mental  Force 
at  his  feet  to  serve  him.  The  style  has  something  of  the  Doric  motive, 
modified  by  the  French  Renaissance.  The  outbound  concourse  is  the 
principal  feature  of  the  inain  building.     Its  high  vaulted  ceiling  is  made 


ENTERING  BY  RAILROAD  115 

to  represent  the  blue  of  the  sky,  and  on  it  are  depicted  the  constel- 
lations of  the  heavens.  It  is  lighted  by  enormous  dome-shaped  windows, 
three  at  the  E.  and  the  same  number  at  the  W.  end.  This  concourse 
is  used  for  throujp^h  out-bound  traffic  only.  Beneath  it  is  the  suburban 
concourse,  used  for  local  out-bound  traffic.  The  station  for  incoming 
travel  is  located  just  across  Vanderbilt  ave.  from  the  main  building, 
with  direct  exits  to  the  subway  and  street.  With  the  exception  of  the 
stairways  from  the  main  concourse,  leading  to  the  surrounding  galleries 
and  tiers  of  business  offices,  broad  ramps  or  inclined  ways  are  used 
altogether,  thus  minimizing  the  danger  and  confusion  of  steps  to  large 
crowds.  All  the  usual  facilities  of  a  great  station  are  to  be  found 
here,  including  an  excellent  restaurant.  This  room  is  artistically  treated, 
with  a  series  of  Guastavino  arches,  and  is  to  be  found  adjoining  the 
concourse  on  the  suburban  level.  Passengers  may  pass  directly  froqi 
the  terminal  to  the  subway  without  going  to  the  street  level.  Elevated 
and  surface-car  lines  pass  the  door.  In  time,  one  general  subway 
station  here  will  connect  the  present  4th  ave.,  Broadway  and  Lenox  ave.- 
Bronx  subway  with  the  new  Lexington  ave.-Bronx  line  via  the  diagonal 
route  now  under  construction  (beneath  the  surface  of  the  site  of  the 
Grand  Union  Hotel);  also  with  the  Steinway-Belmont  ave.  service  to 
Long  Island  City  and  with  the  McAdoo-Hudson  tunnel  trains  to 
Newark,  N.  J.,  which  system  is  to  be  extended  N.  from  Herald  sq.  via 
6th  ave.  and  42nd  st.  to  the  terminal  zone. 

Trains  of  the  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  Railroad,  and 
of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  «ind  Hartford  Railroad  use  this  terminal. 
All  are  operated  by  electricity.  The  trains  of  the  Putnam  Div.  of  the 
New  York  Central  start  from  8th  ave.  and  155th  st.  (reached  by  the 
6th  or  9th  ave.  elevated).  The  Harlem  River  Branch  of  the  New  York, 
New  Haven  and  Hartford  starts  from  Harlem  River  Station,  i32d  St., 
reached    by   shuttle   train   of   3d   ave.    elevated    from    129th    st.  •  station. 

b.    Via  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.    (from 

New  York  State  and  the  West). 

Visitors  entering  New  York  by  the  New  York  Central 
and  Hudson  River  R.  R..have,  until  Spuyten  Duyvil  is  reached} 
a  similar  but  more  restricted  view  of  the  points  of  interest 
that  are  to  be  seen  from  the  river  steamboats.  Here,  how- 
ever, the  train  curves  to  the  L.,  following  the  upper  side  of 
the  U.  S.  Ship  Canal  (p.  351)  and  the  E.  bank  of  the  Harlem 
River. 

^  On  the  L.  the  land  rises  presently  in  a  steep  bluff,  University 
Heights  (p.  360'),  crowned  by  the  buildings  of  New  York  University, 
including  its  Hall  of  Fame  (p.  361).  Opposite,  on  the-  Manhattan  side 
of  the  Harlem,  is  the  high  ground  of  Washington  Heights,  terminating 
on  the  N.  in  Fort  George  (p.  355),  site  of  part  of  the  Revolutionary 
defences  and  now  an  amusement  park.  Below,  along  the  water's  edge, 
is  the  Speedway  (p.  353),  hitherto  reserved  for  fast  trotting  horses. 
At  i8ist  St.,  the  train  passes  beneath  the  lofty  arch  of  Washington 
Bridge,  and  just  below  it  High  Bridge  (p.  353),  which  carries  the 
first  Crotop  Aqueduct  across  the  Harlem.  After  passing  the  station 
of  Mott  Haven,  the  tracks  cross  the  river  to  Manhattan  and  continue 
down  Park  ave.,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way  through  a  tunnel, 
to  the  Grand  Central  Station  at  42d  st. 


ii6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

c.  Via  West  Shore  R.  R.   {from  New  York  State  and  the 

West), 

For  points  of  interest  along  the'  line  of  the  West  Shore 
R.  R.,  see  above,  Hudson  River  Steamboat  Lines  (p.  112). 
The  Terminal  Station  is  at  Weehawken,  opposite  42d  st. 

New  York  City  is  reached  by  ferry:  i.  to  42d  St.  (crosstown  surface 
car  to  Elevated  and  Subway  Lines);  2.  to  Cortlandt  st.  (2,  3  and  4 
blocks  E.,  respectively,  to  9th  and  6th  Ave.  Elevated  \  Lines  and 
Subway) . 

d.  Via  Pennsylvania  R.  R.   (from  the  West). 

Travellers  from  South  and  West,  approaching  New 
York  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  after  leaving  Philadelphia, 
pass  through  Trenton,  N.  J.,  the  capitol  of  the  state  (57  m. 
from  N.  Y.)  ;  Princeton  Junction  (47  m.),  from  which  a 
branch  line  runs  to  Princeton  (3  m.),  the  seat  of  Princeton 
University;  New  Brunswick  (31  m.), — Rutgers  College  may 
be  seen  from  the  train;  Rahway  (ipj^  m.)  ;  Elisabeth  (15^ 
m.)  (PL  A — A5),  Newark  (10  m.  See  p.  461;)  then  the 
train,  after  crossing  the  Passaic  River,  proceeds  over  a 
stretch  of  flatlands  to  Jersey  City  (p.  453),  and  thence 
through  tunnels  under  the  Hudson  River  to  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Terminal  Station  at  7th  ave.  and  3ist-33d  sts..  New 
York  City. 

The  ^^Pennsylvania  Station  (PI.  I — B4),  from  31st  to  33d 
sts.,  was  opened  in  1910.  It  covers  the  entire  area  bounded 
by  7th  and  8th  aves.  and  31st  and  33rd  sts.,  with  entrances  on 
all  four  sides.  The  structure  is  really  a  monumental  bridge 
over  the  tracks,  for  the  highest  point  of  the  tracks  in  the 
station  is  9  ft.  below  sea  level.  The  station  is  built  after 
the  Roman  Doric  style  of  architecture,  its  facades  being 
designed  to  suggest  the  Roman  temples  and  baths,  with  Ro- 
man Doric  colonnades,  composed  of  columns  4J^  ft.  in 
diameter  and  35  ft.  high,  on  four  sides.  (McKim,  Mead  and 
White,  Architects.) 

Above  the  central  colonnade  on  7th  ave.  and  the  one  on  each 
of  the  two  adjacent  sides,  is  an  entablature  surmounted  by  a  clock 
with  a  dial  7  ft.  in  diameter.  To  L.  and  R.  of  the  clock  are  symbolic 
figures  representing  Day  and  Night.  Day,  a  fully  draped  female  figure, 
faces  the  East  and  clasps  to  her  breast  a  tall  sheaf  of  sunflowers. 
Night,  partly  draped,  faces  the  West,  half  shrouding  her  head  under 
a  fold  of  her  garments;  in.  her  arms  is  a  bunch  of  poppies.  Between 
the  figures  is  a  winged  wheel,  emblematic  of  Speed,  Progress  and  Com- 
,  merce  iAdolph  A.  IVeinmann,  artist). 

The  central  entrance  on  the  7th  ave.  side  leads  through  an  arcade 
225  ft.  long,  flanked  on  both  sides  by  shops  to  the  Grand  Stairway 
descending  to  the  main  waiting  room.  This  stairway,  nearly  40  ft. 
wide,  is  constructed  of  Italian  "Travertine"  from  the  Roman  Campagna, 
near  Tivoli.     This  is  the  kind  of  stone  used  in  the  construction  of  the 


ENTERING  BY  RAILROAD  117 

Coliseum  and  ^t.  Peter's  at  Rome;  its  importation  for  use  in  the 
Pennsylvania  Station  is  said  to  be  the  first  instanced  of  its  employment 
in  an  American  building.  At  the  head  of  the  stairway  in  the  Travertine 
wall  is  placed  the  statue  of  Alexander  Johnston  Cassatt,  president  of 
the  Penn.  Railroad  Co.,  1 899-1906,  the  dominant  personality  in  the 
Penn.  Railroad  tunnel  and  station  project  (by  Adolph  A.  Weinmann). 
At  the  foot  of  the  stairway  is  the  General  \Vaiting  Room,  modeled 
on  the  Roman  Baths  of  Caracalla,  and  finished,  like  the  arcade,  stairway 
and  other  waiting  rooms,  in  the  same  mellow,  cream-tinted  Travertine. 
Its  dimensions  are:    length,  314  ft.;  breadth,  108  ft.;  height,  150  ft. 

High  up  on  the  walls  are  six  mural  paintings  by  Jules  Gucrin, 
consisting  of  topographical  maps  in  sky-blue  and  pale  browns  and 
yellows,  depicting  chiefly  the  regions  over  which  the  Pennsylvania 
Railway  and  connecting  lines  run:  i.  N'.  Wall,  Atlantic  Ocean  and 
Coast;  2.  E.  Wall,  left,  Pennsylvania,  Michigan,  Illinois,  Wisconsin; 
3.  E.  Wall,  right.  New  York  and  New  England;  4.  S.  Wall,  United 
States  and  Mexico;  5.  W.  Wall,  left,  New  York  City  and  Vicinity; 
6.  W.  Wall,  right.  Long  Island. 

Parallel  to,  and  connected  with  the  main  waiting  room  is  the 
Concourse,  directly  over  the  tracks  on  which  the  trains  arrive  and 
depart.  Stairs  descend  from  it  to  each  of  the  train  olatforms.  Under- 
lying the  main  concourse,  and  located  between  it  and  the  tracks,  is  the 
exit  concourse,  used  for  egress  purposes  only.  Two  stairways  and 
an  elevator  connect  it  with  each  train  platform.  The  station  is  thor- 
oughly furnished  with  all  modern  equipment.  Surface  cars  pass  the 
door,  and  motor  buses  to  5th  ave.  and  Riverside  Drive  run  to  and 
from  the  station  at  frequent  intervals.  Direct  connection  will  be  made 
with  the  7th  and  8th  ave.  subways  when  they  are  completed.  The 
station  is  used  by  trains  of  the  Penn.  Railroad,  which  pass  to  New 
Jersey  through  tunnels  under  the  Hudson  River,  and'  of  the  Long 
Island  Railroad,  the  northern  part  of  the  station,  separate  ticket  ofHces 
and  entrances,  being  devoted  to  that  road.  Long  Island  trains  pass  by, 
tunnel    under   the   city   and    the    East    River   to    Long    Island    City. 

e.    Via  Erie  R.  R.  {from  New  Jersey,  Southern  New  York 
State  and  the  West). 

Travelers  from  the  West,  arriving  by  the  Erie  R,  R., 
pass  for  nearly  eighty  miles  along  the  picturesque  east  shore 
of  the  Delaware  River.  After  leaving  Port  Jervis  (89  m.), 
the  scenery  offers  little  of  interest.  The  line  passes  through 
Tuxedo  (39  m.),  and  the  busy  manufacturing  towns  of  Pater- 
son  (17  m.)  and  Passaic  (13  m.).  The  main  terminal  station 
is  in  Jersey  City,  foot  of  Montgomery  st. 

New  York  Cit^  may  be  reached  by  ferry:  i.  to  Chambers  st.  6th 
Ave.  Elevated  Station  (two  blocks  E.  at  West  Broadway;  Subway  lines, 
five  blocks  E.,  from  City  Hall  Pk.);  2.  toi  23d  st.  (surface  car  E.  on 
23d  St.,  reaching  all  Elevated  and  Subway  lines) ;  or  by  Hudson  and 
Manhattan  R.  R.  Tunnels:  i.  to  Cortlandt  St.;  2.  to  6th  ave.  ti))town 
stations,  with  terminus  at  33d  St. 


ii8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

f.  Via  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.  {from  New 
Jersey,  Southern  New  York  State  and  the  West). 

In  approaching  New  York  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  & 

Western  R.  R.,  the  two  chief  points  of  interest  are  the  famous 

Delaware  Water  Gap  and  Lake  Hopatcong,  a  popular  nearby 

summer  resort.     E.  of  Denville,  the  line  has  two  branches, 

that  on  the  N.  passing  through  Paterson  and  Passaic,  and 

that    on    the    S.    through    the    attractive    and    fashionable 

"Oranges"  (Maplewood,  South  Orange,  Brick  Church,  etc.), 

and  through  Newark,  the  14th  largest  city  of  the  U.  S.  in 

population   (p.  461).     The  Terminal  Station  is  at  Hoboken. 

New  York  is  reached  either  by  Hudson  and  Manhattan  Tubes, 
to  Cortlandt  st.  (downtown  terminus)  or  to  3. id  St.  (uptown  terminus); 
or  by  ferry:  i.  to  Barclay  st.  (two  blocks  E.  to  9th  Ave.  Elevated; 
three  E.,  one  N.  to  6th  Ave.  Elevated  at  Park  pi.);  2.  to  Christopher 
St.  (Christopher  and  8th  st.  crosstown  lines,  reaching  elevated  and 
subway  lines) ;  3.  to  West  23d  st.  (crosstown  surface  line,  reaching 
all  elevated  and  subway  lines). 

g.  Via   Central   Railroad   of   New  Jersey     {from  Pennsyl- 
vania and  the  South  and  West). 

Passengers  approaching  New  York  over  the  Central 
R.  R.  of  New  Jersey,  pass  (30  m.  from  Jersey  City),  Bound 
Brook  on  the  Raritan  River,  the  junction  of  the  Philadelphia 
and  Reading  R.  R.i  Plainfield  (24  m.),  an  attractive  resi- 
dential town  (population  22,755)  ;  Elisabeth  (PI.  A — A5) 
(iij^  m. ;  pop.  82,411);  Elizahethport  (10  m.),  the  juncture 
of  branches  to  Newark,  and  to  New  Jersey  seaside  resorts. 
Sea  Bright^  Long  Branch,  etc.  The  train  now  crosses  Newark 
Bay  on  a  bridge  2  m.  long;  there  is  a  view  of  Newark  on 
the  L.  and  of  Staten  Island  on  the  R.  The  railway  terminal 
is  in  Jersey  City. 

New  York  is  reached  by  ferry  to:  i.  Liberty  st,  within 
a  few  blocks  of  Cortlandt  st.  elevated  stations  and  Fulton  st. 
subway  station ;  2.  23d  st.,  taking  crosstown  trolley  connect- 
ing with  rapid  transit  lines. 


DOWNTOWN   NEW  YORK* 

(From  the  Battery  to  Fourteenth  Street) 

I.     The  Battery  and  Vicinity 

The  Battery.  At  the  southern  end  of  Manhattan  Island, 
lies  the  Battery  (PI.  II — B6),  a  small  park  of  about  21  acres, 
bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by*  Battery  Place  and  State 
street.  Once  a  fashionable  residential  section,  it  is  now  the 
favorite  lounging  place  for  hordes  of  Italians,  Greeks  and 
Syrians  who  have  colonized  the  lower  west  side. 

The  park  consists  almost  wholly  of  made  land,  the  island  having 
originally  ended  at  Pearl  Street,  so  named  because  of  the  pearly  shells 
found  along  the  shore.  As  more  land  was  reclaimed,  Water,  Front 
and  South  streets,  as  their  names  suggest,  successively  marked  the 
southern  boundary.  Beyond  this  was  nothing  but  a  ledge  called 
Shreyer's  Hook,  and  a  cluster  of  jutting  rocks,  the  Capske.  In  con- 
sequen«"e  of  rumors  in  1693  of  a  proposed  French  expedition  against 
New  York,  the  "Whitehall  Battery,"  mounting  92  cannon,  was  erected 
upon  Shreyer's  Hook,  and  from  this  the  present  park  takes  its  name. 

Entering  the  park  from  Bowling  Green  (see  p.  121),  we 
turn  down  State  St.  past  the  Custom  House,  following 
the  curving  line  of  the  Elevated  Railway  to  its  terminus  at 
South  Ferry.  The  interesting  old  residences  that  once  faced 
the  park  have  nearly  all  been  replaced  by  modern  office  build- 
ings, headquarters  for  the  leading  steamship  lines  and  foreign 
consulates.  No.  21  State  St.,  the  Batterv  Park  Building, 
contains  the  offices  of  the  Cunard,  the  Anchor,  and  the  Hol- 
land-American Lines,  and  the  Austro-Hungarian  consulate, 
while  No.  17,  the  Cheeshrough  Building,  contains  the  Fabre 
Line,  the  Finland  Steamship  Company  and  the  Compagnie 
Generale  Transatlantique,  as  well  as  the  offices  of  the  British, 
Brazilian,  Norwegian,  Portuguese  and  Swedish  consuls.  Only 
four  of  the  old  private  houses,  Nos.  6-9,  still  survive  and 
are  occupied  by  missions  of  various  denominations.  The 
nfost  interesting  is  No.  7,  with  curiously  curved  front  and 
upstairs  balcony  supported  by  Corinthian  columns. 

In  1806  it  was  the  home  of  Moses  Rogers,  a  prominent  merchant 
and  connected  by  marriage  with  President  Dwight  of  Yale.  During  the 
Civil  War  it  was  taken  by  the  Government  for  military  purposes;  later 
it    contained    the   office   of   the     Pilot     Commissioners.      It    is   now    the 


*  To  the  native  New  Yorker  "New  York"  still  means,  popularly 
speaking,  "Manhattan  Island,"  though  Manhattan,  the  original  city  of 
New  York,  is  now  but  one  of  the  five  boroughs  (see  p.  xv)  of  New 
York  City.  The  terms  "Downtown  New  York,"  "Uptown  New  York," 
etc.,  as  used  in  this  guidebook  mean  therefore,  in  accordance  with 
local  practice,  the  southern  jrnd  northern  sections  respectively  of  Man- 
hattan Island. 


120  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Mission  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  a  home  for  Irish  immi^nt  girls. 
It  contains  some  fine  old  mahogany  woodwork  and  an  English  stained 
glass  skylight. 

At  South  Ferry  are  the  ferries  to  St.  George,  S.  I.,  and 
to  Atlantic  and  Hamilton  avenues  and  39th  street,  Brooklyn. 
Next,  to  the  west,  is  the  new  United  States  Barge  Office  (igii), 
a  two-story  structure  of  polychrome  brick,  with  a  curving 
fagade  above  an  arcade.  This  is  the  starting  point  of  the 
boats  to  Governor's  and  Ellis  Islands,  and  here  also  are  the 
offices  of  the  U.  S.  Coast  Guard,  the  U.  S.  Shipping  Com- 
mission, and  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  (the  hospital  itself 
i^  at  Stapleton,  S.  I.)  To  the  west  of  the  Barge  Office  is  a 
recently  erected  fountain  and  behind  it  a  simple  square  granite 
shaft,  .^  Monument  to  the  Wireless  Operators  who  perished 
at  sea  in  fulfilment  of  their  duty.  Ten  names  are  already  in- 
scribed on  the  shaft,  that  of  Jack  Phillips,  of  the  Titanic, 
heading  the  list.  From  this  point  a  fine  Sea  Wall  stretches  in 
a  sweeping  curve  along  the  entire  southern  side  of  the  Bat* 
tery,  affording  an  admirable  view  of  the  Bay  and  its  islands. 
Turning  to  the  right,  on  a  path  leading  towards  the  centre  of 
the  park,  we  come  to  a  bronze  statue  of  John  Ericsson,  the 
inventor  of  the  screw  propeller,  and  designer  of  the  Monitor. 
It  was  designed  by  /.  S.  Hartley  and  erected  by  the  city  in 
1893.  The  granite  pedestal  bears  panels  in  low  relief  com- 
memorating the  great  inventor's  chief  achievements.  A  little 
further  west  stands  the  monument  to  Giovanni  de  Verrazzano 
(Ximens,  sculptor),  wTio,  it  is  claimed,  was  Henry  Hudson's 
precursor  in  discovering  New  York  Harbor.  It  was  given 
by  the  Italian  colony  of  this  city,  largely  through  the  efforts 
of  the  Progresso  Italo- Americano,  and  consists  of  a  bronze 
bust  of  heroic  size,  supported  on  a  lofty  granite  pedestal,  in 
front  of  which  a  symbolic  female  figure  points  the  path  to 
success. 

At  the  western  end  of  the  sea  wall  stands  a  solid,  squat, 
circular  structure,  the  **New  York  Aquarium.  It  is  free  to 
the  public  and  is  open  every  day  in  the  year  (9  A.  M.  to  5  f*. 
M.  from  April  to  October,  10  to  4  from  November  to  March, 
excepting  on  Monday  forenoons,  when  only  teachers  with 
classes  and  members  of  the  N.  Y.  Zoological  Society  are  ad- 
mitted). There  is  no  printed  guide  to  the  exhibits,  but  every 
tank  is  carefully  labeled,  with  many  interesting  additional 
data  as  to  the  habitat  of  the  different  species,  their  maximum 
size,  length  of  life,  their  relative  value  as  food,  etc.  The 
central  space  on  the  ground  floor  is  taken  up  Jjy  one  huge 
circular  tank,  occupied  at  present  by  a  school  of  Cape  Hat- 
teras  porpoises,  and  several  smaller  tanks  containing  seals, 
sea-lions,  alligators,  giant  turtles  and  several  of  the  larger 


THE  BATTERY  AND  VICINITY  121 

species  of  fish.  The  main  portion  of  the  collection,  however, 
is  contained  in  the  wall  tanks,  extending  entirely  around  the 
circular  wall  in  two  tiers,  one  on  the  lower  floor,  the  other 
in  the  gallery  above.  Particular  attention  should  be  given 
to  the  many  brilliant-hued  species  from  the  semi-tropical 
waters  of  Bermuda  and  the  West  Indies. 

History.  Castle  Garden,  the  building  in  which  the  Aquarium  is 
now  housed,  has  many  historical  associations.  It  was  erected  in  1807 
by  the  U.  S.  Government  as  a  fort  called  the  West  Battery.  After  the 
War  of  1 81 2  the  name  was  changed  to  Castle  Clinton.  It  nad  a  battery 
of  30  guns,  the  embrasures  for  which  still  remain  in  the  nine-foot  outer 
wall.  In  1823  the  building  was  ceded  to  the  city  by  Congress,  and 
under  the  new  name  of  Castle  Garden  became  a  place  of  entertain- 
ment, capable  of  containing  8000  spectators.  It  was  connected  with 
the  Battery  by  a  bridge,  the  intervening  water  space  not  being  filled 
in  until  many  years  later.  General  Lafayette  was  received  here  in 
1824,  President  Jackson  in  1832,  President  Tyler  in  1843  and  Louis 
Kossuth  in  185 1.  It  was  here,  in  1835,  that  Professor  Morse,  the  in- 
ventor of  the  telegraph,  demonstrated  the  practicability  of  controlling 
the  electric  current.  Here  alsp,  in  1850,  Jenny  Lind  made  her  Ameri- 
can debut,  under  the  management  of  P.  T.  Barnum.  In  1855  Castle 
Garden  became  the  landing  place  for  immigrants,  and  between  that 
date  and  1895  no  less  than  7,690,606.  foreign^ers  passed  through  its 
doors.  It  was  opened  as  an  Aquarium,  Dec.  10,  1896,  and  in  1902 
the  management  was  transferred  from  the  Department  of  Public  Parks 
to  the  N.  Y.  Zoological  Society,  a  private  organization  with  a  member- 
ship of  1796. 

Bowling  Green  (PI.  II — B5),  on  the  N.  of  the  Battery  is 
a  tiny  oval  Park  closed  in  by  an  iron  fence  brought  from 
England  in  1771 ;  in  the  middle  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Abraham 
de  Peyster,  Mayor  of  New  York  from  1691-95  (G.E.Bissell, 
sculptor),  erected  by  John  Watts  de  Peyster,  6th  in  direct 
descent.  Bowling  Green  derives  it  chief  fame  from  the  early 
17th  and  late  i8th  centuries.  It  is  believed  by  some  that  here 
Peter  Minuit  purchased  the  Island  of  Manhattan  in  1626.  In 
the  early  settler  days  it  was  a  Dutch  Market,  and  in  1732  it 
was  leased  at  i  peppercorn  a  year  for  a  private  Bowling  Green. 
In  1765  the  Stamp  Act  Riot  occurred  here,  and  here  in  1770 
the  leaden  equestrian  statue  of  George  III  was  set  up  to  be 
torn  down  by  the  mob  on  July  9,  1776,  and  turned  into  bullets 
for  the  patriots.  In  1797  the  Green  took  on  its  present  circular 
shape.  It  is  enclosed  by  the  Washington  Building  on  the  W., 
the  new  Custom  House  on  the  S.  and  the  Produce  Exchange 
on  the  E. 

The  Custom  House.  The  new  Custom  House  (PI.  II — 
B5),  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  occupies  the  entire  city  block 
bounded  by  Bowling  Green,  and  Whitehall,  Bridge  and  State 
Sts.  It  is  a  large  granite  building  in  the  modern  French 
renaissance  style,  erected  in  1902-7  from  designs  by  Cass 
Gilbert,  Including  the  ground,  it  cost  more  than  $7,000,000; 
and  its  seven  floors  contain  an  area  of  300,000  square  feet. 


122  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

On  the  exterior  a  series  of  large  granite  columns,  rising  to 
the  cornice  and  crowned  with*  composite  capitals,  extends 
around  the  four  sides.  From  the  centre  of  the  fern  leaves 
of  each  capital  looks  out  the  sculptured  head  of  Mercury,  the 
ancient  God  of  Commerce.  Cut  in  the  granite  lintel  of  each 
window  is  a  man's  head,  forming  a  series  of  eight  racial 
types  repeated  alternately  around  the  building.  On  the  Bowl- 
ing Green  fagade  are  a  number  of  ^sculptures  by  Daniel  C. 
French  and  others  that  merit  detailed  inspection. 

Borne  on  lofty  granite  pedestals,  at  the  level  of  the  second  or 
main  floor  are  four  groups  of  heroic  size,  by  Daniel  C.  French,  repre- 
senting the  FouK  Continents.  From  left  to  right:  i.  Asia,  gazing  ahead 
with  fatalistic  calm,  beside  her  a  tiger  and  the  naked,  suppliant  people; 
2.  America,  clear-eyed  and  hopeful,  with  the  symbolic  eagle  and  an 
armful  of  Indian  maize;  3.  Europe,  gravely  reflective,  with  her  right 
hand  on  the  prow  of  an  ancient  ship,  and  her  left  elbow  on  a  globe 
surmounting  a  pile  of  books;  4.  Africa,  asleep;  beside  her  a  lion  and 
the  Sphynx. 

Extending  across  the  entire  front  of  the  sixth  story  are  twelve 
heroic  statues  in  white  granite  representing  the  Commercial  Nations, 
in  the  following  order,  from  left  to  right:  i.  Greece  and  2.  Rome,  by 
P.  E.  Ehvell;  3.  Phoenica,  by  F.  IV.  Ruckstuhl;  4.  Genoa,  by  Augustus 
Lukeman;  5.  Venice  and  6.  Spain,  by  F.  M.  L.  Tonetti:  7.  Holland,  and 
8.  Portugal,  by  Louis  St.  Gaudens;  9.  Denmark,  by  Johannes  Gellert; 
10.  Germany,  by  Albert  Jaegers;  11.  England,  and  12.  P'rance,  by 
Charles  Grafly. 

On  the  seventh  story  is  a  Cartouche,  by  Karl  Bitter,  consisting  of 
two  winged  figures  supporting  the  shield  of  the  United  States.  One  of 
these  figures  holds  a  sheathed  sword,  typifying  the  great  power  of  peace; 
the  other  holds  a  close-bound  bundle  01  reeds,  symbolic  of  the  strength 
of  perfect  union. 

Much  of  the  ground  floor  of  the  Custom  House  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  branch  of  the  Post  Office.  The  only  objects  of 
interest  to  the  visitor  are  on  the  floor  above.  Ascending 
the  imposing  flight  of  steps  on  the  Bowling  Green  side,  we 
reach  the  main  entrance.  Directly  opposite  is  the  central 
rotunda,  which  well  merits  inspection.  At  the  west  end  of 
the  northern  corridor  (last  door  on  the  right)  is  the  Col- 
lector's Reception  Room.  Visitors  are  admitted  on  week 
days  during  office  hours.  It  is  a  spacious  chamber,  ornately 
decorated,  with  a  gilded  ceiling  and  elaborate  walnut  carvings. 
A  walnut  screen,  delicately  wrought  and  rising  two-thirds  of 
the  way  to  the  ceiling,  divides  the  ante-chamber  from  the 
main  room.  Visitors  are  freely  admitted  to  both  sections,  and 
should  give  special  attention  to  the  series  of  ♦Paintings  of  the 
Seventeenth  Century  Ports,  by  Elmer  E.  Garnsey,  which 
extend  around  the  four  walls. 

The  scries  begins  on  the  eastern  wall  next  to  the  entrance  door 
with  I.  Amsterdam,  Holland;  then,  continuing  westward  on  the  south 
wall  around  the  room;  2.  CuraQoa,  in  the  Caribbean  Sea:  3.  Port  Orange 
(now  Albany),  New  York;  4.  New  Amsterdam,  (now  New  York  City); 
5.  La  Rochelle,  France;   6.  London,  England;   7.  Port  Royal,  Jamaica; 


THE  BATTERY  AND  VICINITY  123 

8.  Plymouth,  England;  9.  Cadiz,  Spain;  10.  Genoa,  Italir.  Probably 
the  most  interesting  is  the  harbor  of  Amsterdam.  The  visitor  should 
notice  the  tower  in  the  centre,  known  as  the  Weepers'  Tower,  because  of 
the  farewells  that  took  place  at  its  base.  To  the  right,  beyond  the 
spire  of  the  Old  Church,  is  the  dome  of  St.  Nicholas,  patron  saint  of 
sailors.  On  the  left  is  a  war-ship,  the  Seven  Provinces,  displaying  the 
banner  of  Amsterdam. 

The  present  Custom  House  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Amsterdam, 
built  in  1626  by  Peter  Minuit,  probably  on  the  site  of  a  trader's  fort, 
the  orif^inal  log  block  house  of  1615.  The  Governor's  House  and  the 
First  Collegiate  Dutch  Church  stood  within  its  walls.  Its  successor. 
Fort  George,  was  demolished  in  1790,  and  the  Government  House 
erected  as  a  presidential  mansion,  a  purpose  defeated  by  the  removal 
of  the  seat  of  government  to  Philadelphia.  It  was  the  residence  of 
several  governors,  among  them  George  Clinton  and  John  Jay.  From 
1^99  it  was  used  as  the  Custom  House,  until  burned  down  in  181 5.  The 
site  was  occupied  by  private  residences,  which  eventually  were  con- 
verted into  offices  of  the  leading  steamship  companies,  until  they  in 
turn   passed   to   make   way   for   the   present   edifice. 

The  Custom  House  has  undergone  numerous  removals.  From  1842 
to  1862  it  occupied  what  is  now  the.  St'b-treasnry  building  on  Wall 
Street,'  when  it  was  transferred  to  the  former  Merchants'  Exchange, 
where  it  remained  until  the  completion  of  its  new  abode. 

The  Washington  Building  (i  Broadway,  erected  by  Cyrus  W. 
Field)  is  on  the.  site  of  the  house  erected  in  1760  by  Archibald  Kennedy, 
Collector  of  the  Port  of  New  York,  and  afterwards  occupied  by  the 
British    generals    Cornwallis,    Howe,    and    Clinton    (memorial    tablet). 

Whitehall  st.  (PI.  II — B5)  runs  S.  E.  from  2  Broadway 
to  the  East  river.  Opposite  the  Custom  House  on  Whitehall  st. 
is  the  Produce  Exchange  (PI.  II — B5),  Italian  Renaissance 
style^  220  ft.  long,  1 14  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high.  The  tower,  225 
ft.  high,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  harbor.  If  we 
enter  the  Produce  Exchange  by  the  Stone  Street  entrance,  on 
the  wall  directly  to  the  right  of-  the  entrance  is  a  tablet  mark- 
ing the  site  of  the  first  schoolhouse  ever  built  in  New  York. 
Passing  on  through  the  hall  to  the  rear  wall  facing  the  court, 
we  may  see  a  tablet  erected  to  mark  the  site  of  the  first 
Huguenot  Church,  built  in  1688.  The  Visitors'  Gallery  in  the 
main  hall  of  the  Exchange  is  reached  by  N.  side  elevators  to 
third  floor.    Visitors  freely  admitted  during  business  hours. 

At  39  Whitehall  St.  is  the  U.  S.  Army  Building,  a  red 
brick  structure,  resting  on  a  fortress-like  two-story  founda- 
tion of  granite.  Over  the  entrance  is  the  seal  of  the  War 
Department,  hewn  in  the  granite.  The  building  is  a  depot 
for  quartermasters'  supplies.  To  the  E.,  at  the  S.  E.  cor. 
of  Broad  St.  and  Pearl  St.,  is  the  old 

♦Fraunces^  Tavern  (PI.  II — C5),  one  of  the  oldest  build- 
ings in  the  city.  It  was  erected  in  1719,  by  Etienne  Delancey,  a 
wealthy  Hugenot  who  after  residing  there  nearly  half  a 
century,  conveyed  it  in  1762  to  Samuel  Fraunces,  who  here 
opened  the  Queen's  Head  Tavern,    It  was  here,  in  1768,  that 


124  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  N.  Y.  Chamber  of  Commerce  was  organized.  In  1775.  it 
was  injured  by  a  shell  from  the  British  ship  Asia.  Its  chief 
historic  interest,  however,  is  due  to  its  having  been  the  scene 
of  the  farewell  of  Washington  to  his  officers,  Dec.  4,  1783. 
Just  a  century  later  the  reorganization  of  the  Sons  of  the 
Revolution  took  place  in  the  same  room.  The  building  was 
carefully  restored  in  1907  under  the  auspices  of  this  society, 
as  a  memorial  to  their  former  president,  Frederick  Samuel 
Talmadge.    It  is  open  to  the  public  daily,  except'  Sundays. 

The  lower  floor  is  occupied  by  a  restaurant  (p.  20).  On  the  floor  above, 
on  the  Broad  Street  side,  is  the  Long  Room,  the  scene  of  Washington's 
farewell.  On  the  south  wall  are  portraits  of  Frederick  Samuel  Tal- 
madge.  President,  and  John  Austin  Stevens,  founder  of  the  Sons  of  the 
Revolution.  On  the  east  wall  are  modern  copies  of  old  portraits  of 
Alexander  Hamilton,  Philip  Schuyler,  and  Major  General  Alexander  Mc- 
Dougall,  First  President  of  the  Bank  of  New  York.  In  the  middle  of 
the  room  is  a  handsome  long  table,  constructed  from  splendid  old 
beams  removed  from  the  lower  story  when   repaired  in   1890. 

On  the  next  floor  is  thej  museum.  Over  the  mantel  is  a  painting 
by  Edward  Trenchard,  Washington  arriving  at  the  foot  of  Wall  Street 
for  his  Inauguration,  1789.  On  the  mantel,  a  miniature  replica  of  the 
Equestrian  Statue  of  General  Anthony  Wayne  at  Valley  Forge,  by 
Henry  K.  Bush-Brown,  and  a  Bronze  Medallion  of  Wayne,  by  James 
E.  Kelly.  On  right  of  mantel,  The  Old  Mount  Vernon,  by  Eastman 
Johnson.  On  table  by  window,  a  small  bronze,  Paul  Revere,  by  James 
E.  Kelly.  In  the  centre  of  the  room  are  four  long  ^lass  cases  contain- 
ing a  great  variety  of  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  cunos,  portraits,  auto- 
graphs, old  documents,  ornaments  and  weapons.  There  are  the  original 
deeds  of  conveyance  of  Fraunces'  Tavern,  including  that  of  Delancey; 
there  is  one  case  devoted  to  "Our  French  Allies."  including  an  inter- 
esting series  of  old  engravings,  autograph  letters  from  Louis  XVI.  and 
various  distinguished  Frenchmeh,  also  a  small  bound  volume  once  be- 
longing to  Lafayette  and  containing  his  signature. 

On  the  upper  floor  there  is  nothing  of  interest  beyond  a  collec- 
tion of  nearly  a  hundred  early  portraits  of  Washington,  both  wood- 
cuts and  copper  and  steel  engravings. 

The  restoration  of  the  old  building  was  conducted  with  the  greatest 
care  and  it  is  believed  that  its  present  state  closely  resembles  what  its 
appearance  must  have  been  in  the  days  when  it  was  a  favorite  resort 
for  Colonial  fashionable  life.  Some  of  the  old  tiles  could  be  matched 
only  by  sending  to  Holland,  while  the  bricks  needed  for  repairs  on  the 
Pearl  Street  side  were  obtained  from  some  old  buildings  in  Baltimore 
of  almost  exactly  the  same  period,  which  happened  to  be  in  the  course 
of  demolition. 

The  names  of  the  streets  in  this  vicinity  preserve  numef- 
ous  reminiscences  of  local  history.  Broad  St.,  owes  its  width 
(and  name)  to  the  fact  that  originally  a  canal  ran  through 
the  middle  of  it.  Bridge  St.  commemorates  the  bridge  which 
crossed  the  canal  at  that  point.  Moore  St.  marks  the  site 
of  the  first  mooring  place  for  boats.  Stone  St.  was  the  first 
New  York  street  to  be  paved  (with  cobblestones,  in  1657)- 
Whitehall  St.  originally  led  to  Governor  Stuyvesant's  house, 
later  known  as  the  White  Hall  (erected  1658).  In  Dutch 
times,  it  was  called  the  Marckveldt,  the  memory  of  which  still 


BROADWAY  TO  WALL  STREET  125 

lingers  in  Marketfield  St.,  the  short  block  facing  the  court 
of  the  Produce  Exchange  (Marckfeldt  Steegie)^  which  later, 
probably  because  it  was  a  favorite  shopping  center,  was  re- 
christened  by  the  English  Petticoat  Lane. 

II.     Broadway  from  Bowling  Green  to  Wall  Street 

Broadway  (PI.  II — B5),  the  most  important  street  of 
New  York  City  and  probably  the  best  known  single 
street  in  the  world,  starts  at  Battery  Place  and 
runs  N.  through  Manhattan,  across  the  Harlem  river, 
through  the  Bronx  and  across  the  city  line,  a  dis- 
tance of  19  miles.  The  lowpr  part  is  lined  on  either  side 
with  huge  loft  buildings,  divided  into  office  suites  for  profes- 
sional men.  Banks,  insurance  offices,  wholesale  houses,  news- 
paper plants,  and  some  factories  are  also  found  here.  At  noon 
time  and  in  the  evening  when  the  office  workers  are  on  the 
street,  the  side  walks  are  crowded.  The  subway  morning  and 
evening  is  insufferably  packed.  Going  N.  the  right-hand  side 
is  E.  and  the  left  is  W.  The  following  buildings  are  men- 
tioned either  because  of  their  size  (indicated  by  the  number 
of  stories)  or  because  of  the  wealth  of  the  firms  they  house. 

No.  I,  W.  side,  is  Washington  Bldg.  (p.  123)  with  the 
19  story  Bozvling  Green  Building  adjoining. 

Opposite  is  the  Produce  Exchange   (p.  123). 

No.  26,  E.  side,  is  the  Standard  Oil  Bldg.    The  original^ 
building  was  9  stories  high  and  the  additional  6  stories  rest, 
not  on  the  old  building  but  upon  a  cantilever  projection  from 
a  new  portion  of  the  building  erected  on  one  side  of  the 
old  building.  • 

No.  41,  W.  side,  is  the  site  of  the  first  dwellings  inhabited 
by  white  men  on  Manhattan  Island.  They  were  erected  in 
1613,  by  Adrian  Block,  captain  of  the  Tiger,  to  house  his 
crew  after  that  vessel  had  been  destroyed  by  fire,  and  until 
he  completed  a  new  ship,  the  Unrest.  A  tablet  erected  by  the 
Holland  Society,  marks  the  spot. 

No.  50,  the  Tower  Building,  is  interesting  as  being  the 
earliest  example  of  a  skeleton-frame  steel  structure  (1888- 
89).  The  originator  and  designer  was  Bradford  Lee  Gilbert. 
The  commemorative  tablet  was  erected  by  the  Society  of 
Architecture  and  Ironmasters  of  New  York. 

Beyond,  on  the  W.  side,  Nos.  53-61,  is  the  Adams  Ex- 
press Co.  (32  stories)  and  No.  71  is  the  Empire  Building 
(20  stories),  the  hall  of  which  is  an  arcade  to  the  Rector 
St.  station  of  the  6th  Ave.  elevated.    Back  of  Trinity  Church- 


1 


126  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

yard,  at  No.  2  Rector  St.  rises  the  United  States  Express 
Building  (23  stories).  On  the  E.  side,  at  the  S.  corner  of 
Exchange  Place,  No.  52,  is  Exchange  Court  Building,  with 
bronze  statues  of  Stuyvesant,  Clinton,  Hudson  and  Wolf  by 
/.  Massey  Rhind;  on  the  N.  corner,  No.  60,  the  Columbia- 
Knickerbocker  Trust  Building;  at  No.  66  the  Manhattan 
Life  Insurance  Building,  with  a  tower  348  ft.  high;  and  at 
No.  80  the  Union  Trust  Building. 

(Description  of  Broadway  continued  on  page  132.) 

III.    Wall,  Broad,  Nassau  and  William  Streets 

and  their  Neighborhood 

Wall  st.  (PI.  II — C4)  runs  from  Broadway  to  the  East 
river.  The  st.  takes  its  name  from  a  wall  erected  along  this 
line  in  1653  by  Gov.  Stuyvesant,  with  gates  at  Broadway  and 
Pearl  st  It  was  not  removed  till  1699.  In  Revolutionary 
times  it  was  a  fashionable  residence  neighborhood.  It  is  now 
the  center  of  the  financial-  life  of  the  country,  some  of  the 
greatest  business  firms  in  the  world  being  housed  in  the  high 
buildings  that  rise  on  either  side  of  the  narrow  thoroughfare. 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  Wall  st.  and  Broadway  is  the  United  Bank 
Building,  owned  by  the  First  National  Bank  and  the  Bank  of  the  Re- 
public and  housing  also  several  private  banking  firms,  and  southern 
and  western  railway  companies.  No.  10  Wall  St.,  opposite  the  end  of 
New  St.,  is  the  Astor  Building,  on  the  site  formerly  occupied  by  the 
First  Presbyterian  Church.  Jonathan  Edwards  and  George  Whitefield 
both  preached  here.  In  the  same  block,  at  the  corner  of  Nassau  st.,  is 
the  Bankers  Trust  Company  building  (39  stories),  on  the  site  of  the 
Gillender  Building,  demolisned  only  15  years  after  its  erection  to  be 
replaced  by  a  larger  structure.  The  ground  cost  $825  per  sq.  ft.,  which 
is  said  to  be  the  highest  price  ever  paid  for  land. 

On  the  S.  side  betw.  New  st.  (stopping  at  Wall  st.)  and 
Broad  st.  (becoming  Nassau  st.  on  the  N.  side)  betw.  the 
Mortimer  Building  and  the  Wilkes  Building  is  the  side  en- 
trance to  the  *Stock  Exchange  (PI.  II — B4),  its  Main  En- 
trance being  on  Broad  st.  (Hours  10-3.  A  visitor  must  be  taken 
in  by  a  member  or  obtain  a  pass  from  the  Secretary  at  13 
Wall  St.)  It  is  a  lo-story  marble  building,  designed  hy  George 
B.  Post,  finished  in  1903  and  costing  $3,000,000.  The  frontage 
on  Broad  st.  is  138  ft.,  and  on  New  st,  152  ft. 

The  first  five  stories  are  behind  six  Corinthian  colums,  52  ft.  6  in. 
high.  The  pediment  sculptures  were  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  assisted  by  Paul 
W.  Bartlett.  The  central  figure  represents  Integrity,  tne  group  on  the 
right  of  the  central  figure  represents  Agriculture  and  Mining,  and  on 
the  left  represents  Motive  Power,  Scientific  and  Mechanical  Appliances. 

The  New  York  Stock  Exchange  is  not  an  incorporated  body 
hv\  a  strictly  voluntary  association,  organized  in  1792  by  a  group 
of  brokers  meeting  under  a  buttonwood  tree  at  what  is  now  70 
W»ll   St.,   and   later   in   the   old   Tontine    CoflFee   house.     The   member- 


WALL  STREET  AND  NEIGHBORHOOD        127 

ship  is  limited  to  iioo  members,  of  whom  about  700  are  active.  No 
one  but  members  are  allowed  on  the  floor.  Memberships  fluctuate  in 
value  with  eeneral  business  condition^.     They  have  brought  as  high  as 

t 95, 000,  and  have  been  sold  within  a  year  for  less  than  $5^,000.  The 
Ixchange  does  no  business  itself,  but  provides  facilities  to  its  members 
and  oversees  their  conduct.  An  elected  committee  of  40  members  is 
the  governing  board.  Stocks  and  bonds  of  corporations  and  bonds  of 
governments  are  sold.  Transactions  must  be  completed  and  paid  for 
on  the  following  day.  In  1913  sales  amounted  to  83,2.83,582  shares  of 
stock,  worth  $5,921,462,680,  and  $501,155,920  bonds.  The  record  day 
in  stocks  was  April  30,  i9oi,when  3,190,857  shares  were  traded  in,  and 
in  bonds,  Nov.  11,  1904,  when  sales  amounted  to  $15,085,500. 

On  the  N.  side,  at  the  corner  of  Nassau  St.,  is  the  ♦United 
States  Sub-Treasury  Building  (PI.  II — C4).  The  little  old 
building  formerly  adjoining  it  was  the  old  Assay  Office,  re- 
cently demolished.  The  Sub-Treasury  is  open  from  10  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m.  The  building  was  erected  in  1812  for  a  Custom 
House  and  remodeled  for  its  present  use  in  1862.  It  is  of 
marble  with  a  Doric  portico  and  the  interior  is  quaintly 
ornate.  The  vaults,  which  have  held  at  one  time  $250,000,000 
in  gold  and  silver,  are  shown  to  visitors  only  upon  presenta- 
tion of  a  letter  from  a  New  York  Bank. 

The  present  building  stands  on  an  historic  site.  The  Colonial  City 
Hall  was  here  from  1699  to  181 2.  In  front  stood  the  pillory  and  whip- 
ping post.  Many  important  events  took  place  here.  1735,  the  Zenger 
case  was  won  here  (p.  xxii).  1765,  the  Stamp  Congress  met^  and  in 
1785  the  Continental  Congress  met  here.  In  1788  the  building  was  re- 
modeled and  named  Federal  Hall.  Washington's  inauguration  took 
place  April  30,  1789.  After  being  formally  received  by  the  two  houses 
in  the  Senate  hall,  he  stepped  outside  in  front  of  the  buiiding  to  take 
the  oath  of  office.  The  stone  on  which  he  stood  is  preserved  in  the 
building  in  the  S.  wall.  He  then  attended  divine  service  at  St.  Paul's 
chapel  (p.  137).  He  wore  a  complete  suit  o'f  hothespun  so  finely 
woven  that  it  was  "universally  mistaken  for  a  foreign  manufactured 
superfine  cloth."  Other  officials  offered  "the  same  token  of  attention  to 
the  manufacturing  interests  of  their  country."  A  tablet  on  the  W.  front 
commemorates  the  passage  of  the  Ordinance  of  1787  by  Congress.  The 
tablet  on  the  E.  front  represents  Washington  in  prayer  at  Valley  Forge, 
by  /.  E.  Kelley,  presented  by  Lafayette  Post,  No.  140,  G.  A.  R.  In 
front  of  the  building  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Washington  by  /.  Q.  A, 
Ward,  erected  by  public  subscription  in  1883. 

To  reach  the  present  Assay  Office  pass  through  the 
Sub-Treasury  Building,  to  the  Pine  st  exit.  The  Assay  office 
entrance  is  at  the  right,  up  a  wooden  inclined  plane.  The  old, 
closed  building  on  Broad  st.  was  erected  in  1823  as  a  United 
States  Bank  and  Treasury.  The  new  rear  building  is  six 
stories  and  equipped  with  modern  machinery.  (Visitors  apply- 
ing to  the  superintendent,  desk  near  entrance,  betw.  11  a.  m. 
and  3  p.  m.,  will  be  shown  the  processes.) 

This  is  a  government  office  which  handles  gold  and  silver  for 
banks,  private  firms  and  individuals,  etc.  Anyone  can  bring  here  gold 
or  silver  in  any  form  (amounting  in  value  to  at  least  $100),  have  it 
melted  and  assayed  and  receive  for  it  its  value  in  money.  Banks  send- 
ing gold  bullion  abroad  obtain  it  here.  The  loss  in  "sweated"  coins  can 
be  determined  here  and  the  purity  of  any  gold  or  silver. 


128  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

In  the  same  block,  on  the  N.  side,  among  other  buildings, 
are  two  important  banks,  the  Bank  of  the  Manhattan  Com- 
pany,  at  No.  40,  chartered  in  1799.  It  is  the  second  oldest 
bank  in  the  city.  Its  banking  privileges  were  secured  through 
a  clever  ruse,  by  Aaron  Burr,  who,  in  an  apparently  harmless 
measure  incorporating  a  company  to  supply  the  city  with 
water,  engrafted  a  clause  providing  that  its  surplus  capital 
might  be  employed  in  any  capacity  not  inconsistent  with  the 
laws  of  New  York.  The  Merchants^  Bank,  at  No.  42,  was 
founded  1803,  and  is  the  third  oldest  bank. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  street,  betw.  Broad  and  William 
Sts.,  are  a'  number  of  important  companies.  At  No.  23  is 
the  beautiful  new  low  building  of  the  banking  house  of  J.  P. 
Morgan  &  Co.  This  famous  house,  known  earlier  as  Drexel, 
Morgan  &  Co.,  owes  its  name  to  John  Pierpont  Morgan 
(1837-1913),  one  of  America's  greatest  financial  geniuses,  who 
was  an  active  partner  from  1871  onward  and  the  controlling 
power  in  the  firm  during  his  later  years.  Mr.  Morgan's  spe- 
cial ability  as  an  organizer  was  displayed  in  his  success  in 
establishing  the  United  States  Steel  Corporation,  the  Northern 
Securities  Company,  and  the  Atlantic  shipping  combination. 
Mr.  Morgan  was  also  well  known  as  an  enthusiastic  and  dis- 
criminating art  collector  and  the  owner  of  an  unrivalled 
private  collection  of  unique  books  and  manuscripts  (seep.  210). 

Next  comes  the  Mills  Building,  with  its  main  entrance 
on  Broad  St.  No.  37  is  the  Equitable  Trust  Co.,  No.  43  the 
United  States  Trust  Co.,  and  at  No.  49  is  the  Atlantic  Build- 
ing. On  the  next  block,  still  on  the  S.  side,  from  William  to 
Hanover  St.,  is  the  huge  granite  structure  of  the  National 
City  Bank,  with'  twenty-five  million  dollars  capital,  thirty 
million  surplus,  and  two  hundred  and  forty  million  deposits. 

The  building  now  occupied  by  the  bank  covers  an  entire  block 
bounded  by  Wall,  William  and  Hanover  Sts,  and  Exchange  Place.  It 
was  origially  erected  as  a  Merchants'  Exchange,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
Exchange,!  destroyed  in  the  big  fire  of  1835.  In  1862  it  became  the 
United  States  Custom  House.     It  is  a  massive  structure,  of  blue  Quincy 

franite,  in  the  Doric  style,  with  a  portico  of  granite  columns  38  ft.  high. 
)imensions:  200  ft.  deep  by  144  to  171  wide;  elevation  to  top  of 
dome,  124  ft.  Cost,  including  ground,  $1,800,000.  {Isaiah  Rogers, 
architect.) 

On  the  N.  side  at  the  E.  corner  of  Wall  and  William  Sts., 
the  Bank  of  New  York,  the  oldest  New  York  bank  and  one 
of  the  three  oldest  in  the  country,  founded  by  Alexander 
Hamilton  and  others  in  1784.  The  cornerstone  bears  an  in- 
scription and  the  date  1797. 

At  No.  48  is  a  tablet  marking  one  of  the  Bastions  of  the 
original  wall.    Among  other  buildings,  No.  54  is  the  Central 


WALL  STREET  AND  NEIGHBORHOOD        129 

Trust  Co.,  and  on  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Pearl  St.  is  the 
Seaman's  Bank,  On  the  N.  E.  corner  is  the  Tontine  Building, 
named  for  the  Tontine  Coffee  House,  which  formerly  stood 
here'.  The  shore  line  originally  ran'  as  far  inland  as  the 
present  Pearl  St.,  and  here  at  the  foot  of  Wall  St.  was  the 
Meal  Market,  used  also  as  the  city  Slave  Market. 

At  No.  56  Wall  St.  is  a  Memorial  tablet  to  Morris 
Robinson,  first  president  of  the  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Com- 
pany, who  here  first  established  modern  life  insurance  ■  in 
America  (erected  by  the  Canadian  Society  of  New  York, 
1903). 

Hanover  Square  (PI.  II — C4)  located  in  this  tangle  of  sts. 

betw.  William  and  Hanover,  three  blocks  S.  of  Wall  st.,  one 

block  S.  E.  of  Beaver  st,  one  block  N.  E.  of  Broad  st,  was 

named  for  George  I  of  Hanover.  • 

At  the  corner  of  William  and  Beaver  sts.  is  the  Cotton  Exchange 
(p.  130).    A  tablet  marks  the  site  of  Bradf6rd's  New  York  Gazette,  iT^Sr 
the  first  New  York  newspaper.     Nearby  at  the  corner  of  Beaver  and  S. 
William  sts.  is  the  original  Delmonico's.     The  marble  pillars  at  the  en- 
trance are  from  Pompeii. 

One  block  further  S.  on  Pearl  St.  brings,  us  to  Coenties 
Slip,  a  popular  corruption  of  the  name  of  Coriraet  Ten  Eyck, 
who  lived  here.  The  "Slip"  (filled  in  about  1835)  is  now 
occupied  by  Jeanette  Park,  so  named  in  memory  of  the 
Hdrald  Arctic  Expedition  ship. 

At  the  head  of  the  present  slip  is  the  site  of  the  first  public  hotel 
erected  in  New  York.  Governor  KieflF,  of  New  Amsterdam,  had  been 
in  the  habit  of  receiving  ofiicial  visitors  in  his  own  home,  but  finding 
this  custom  burdensome,  he  erected  in  1648,  at  the  company's  expense, 
a  plain  stone  tavern.  This  was  later  used  as  the  Stadt  Huys,  or 
City  Hall. 

Broad  St.  (Pl.II— C4)  runs  S.  from  21  Wall  St.,  curving 
E.  to  the  East  River.  The  bbck  betw.  Wall  St.  and  Ex- 
change PI.  contains  the  main  entrance  of  the  Stock  Exchange 
(p.  126).  Opposite  the  Exchange  is  the  Mills  Building,  one 
of  the  earliest  great  office  buildings  built  in  1882,  now  in- 
conspicuous among  far  larger  buildings,  with  an  entrance 
also  on  Wall  St.  At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Broad  St.  and  Ex- 
change PI.  is  'the  20-story  Broad-Exchange  Building.  The 
Commercial  Cable  Building,  with  two  domes,  is  317  ft.  high. 

On  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Beaver  St.  is  the  Consolidated  Stock 
Exchange;  visitors'  entrance  on  Beaver  St.  Tliis  exchange, 
though  not  as  important  as  the  main  one,  is  well  worth  a  visit 
Visitors  are  admitted  freely.  Take  the  elevator  to  gallery  at 
the  Beaver  St.  entrance. 

The  Consolidated  Stock  Exchange  was  organized  as  a  mining 
exchange    in    1875,    altering    its    nami    and    field    in    1886.      It    deals 


ijo  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

chiefly  in  securities  listed  upon  the  main  exchange,  but  also  in  shares 
not  listed  there  and  some  mining  shares  generally  excluded  from  the 
main  exchange.  It  has  1,225  members,  about  450  of  whom  are  active. 
Membership  sells  for  from  $650  to  $2,000. 

The  three  exchanges  next  in  importance  are  the  Produce  (p.  123), 
the  Cotton  (p.  130),  cor.  Beaver  and  William  sts.,  and  the  Coffee  (113 
Pearl  st.),  with  a  business  mainly  speculation,  consisting  of  purchase 
and  sales  for  future  delivery,  either  by  those  who  wish  to  eliminate  risks 
Or  who  seek  to  profit  by  fluctuating  values.  The  Produce  Exchange,  the 
most  important  of  the  three,  was  chartered  in  1862.  It  has  2000  mem- 
bers, some  of  whom  are  also  connected  with  other  exchanges.  The  busi- 
ness includes  dealing  in  all  grains,  cottonseed  oil  and  other  products. 
Wheat  is  the  chief  subject  of  trading.  The  Cotton  Exchange,  incorporated 
in  1 87 1,  has  450  members  and  is  the  most  important  cotton  market  in  the 
world.  It  provides  the  means  of  financing  about  80  per  cent,  of  the  crop 
of  the  United  States  and  arranges  for  its  distribution.  Traders  and 
manufacturers  in  Great  Britain,  Germany,  France,  Spain,  Ejg^pt,  Japan, 
and  India  trade  here.  The  Coffee  Exchange,  incorporated  in  1885,  has 
320  members,  of  whom  80  per  cent,  are  active.  Four  exchanges  of  minor 
importance  are  the  New  York  Mercantile  Exchange,  6  Harrison  St.; 
The  Real  Estate  Exchange,  14  Vesey  St.;  the  Metal  Exchange,  11 1 
Broadway;    and    the   Maritime  Exchange,    78    Broad    st. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Beaver  St.  is  the  Morris  Building. 
At  the  S.  W.  cor.  is  the  American  Bank  Note  Building. 

A  part  of  Broad  st.  just  below  the  Stock  Exchange,  in 
front  of  No.  44,  is  roped  off  for  the  *Curb  Market,  where 
traders  buy  and  sell  stocks  and  bonds,  shouting  and  ges- 
ticulating in  continuous  excitement,  amid  the  confusion  of 
passing  traffic.  The  men  in  the  street  signal  by  a  finger  lan- 
guage to  clerks  in  the  windows  of  surrounding  offices,  who  in 
turn  are  in  telephonic  communication  *with  unseen  directors. 
The  scene  is  extraordinary. 

The  Curb  Market  has  existed  for  some  30  years,  but  has 
become  important  only  since  1897.  It  has  200  subscribers,  about  150 
of  whom  appear  on  the  curb.  It  is  under  less  regulation  than  the 
organized  exchanges,  and  deals  in  securities  not  listed  in  the  more 
conservative  exchanges. 

Nassau  St.  (PI.  II — B3)  runs  from  20  Wall  St.,  continuing 
Broad  St.  N.  to  Park  Row,  parallel  with  Broadway,  i  block 
E.  At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Pine  St.  is  the  Fourth  National, 
Bank.  At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Cedar  St.  is  the  National  Bank  of 
Commerce,  with  the  Postal  Life  Building  next  door.  Oppo- 
site, on  the  E.  side,  betw.  Cedar  and  Liberty  Sts.,  is  the 
Mutual  Life  Insurance  Building,  on  the  site  of  the  Middle 
Dutch  Church,  built  1727-32.  A  tablet  at  the  corner  of 
Nassau  and  Cedar  commemorates  the  fact.  It  has  not  been 
widened  since  it  was  laid  out  in  1692. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Beaver  St.  is  a  Tablet  commemo- 
rating "the  gallant  and  patriotic  act  of  Marinus  Willett  in 
here  seizing  from  the  British  forces  (June  6th,  1775)  the 
muskets  with  which  to  arm*  his  own  troops.' 


u 


WALL  STREET  AND  NEIGHBORHOOD         131 

In  Cedar  st,  betw.  Nassau  and  Broadway  is  the  New  York 
Clearing  House  (PL  II — B5)  built  of  white  marble,  Italian 
Renaissance  style,  elaborately  decorated,  with  a  dome.  Visi- 
tors are  not  admitted.  The  association  is  made  up  of  65  banks 
and  trust  companies  who  daily  balance  their  accounts  with 
each  other  here,  determining  by  their  system  of  exchanges 
how  much  each  must  pay  or  receive  from  each  of  the  others. 

In  19 1 3  the  clearings  amounted  to  over  $98,121,000,000,  a  daily 
average  of  over  $323,800,000.  On  Nov.  3,*  1909,  the  clearines  amounted 
to  $736,000,000.  In  the  cellar  is  a  vault,  24  ft.  wide,  20  ft.  deep  and  12 
ft.  high,  capable' of  holding  210  tons  of  gold,  or  about  $105,000,000  in 
coin.  The  vault  rests  upon  concrete  and  iron.  The  outer  walls  are  steel 
plates  6  in.  thick;  each  outer  door  weighs  10  tons.  Both  inner  and  outer 
doors  are  fitted  with  time  and  combination  locks.  Around  the  vault, 
four  feet  from  the  walls,  is  a  fence  with  bars  three  inches  thick.  Elec- 
tric signals  give  an  alarm  if  anjr  part  of  the  walls  is  touched.  There 
are  also  arrangements  for  charging  the  fence  with  electricity  and  for 
flooding  the  vault  room  with  live  steam. 

At  the  N.  E,  cor.  of  Nassau  and  Liberty  Sts.  is  the  31- 
story  Liberty  Tower.  Toward  Broadway,  on  the  N.  side  of 
Liberty  st.  is  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  (PI.  II — B3)  a 
marble  building  on  a  granite  base,  elaborately  ornamented, 
built  in  1902  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000,  designed  by  /.  B.  Baker. 
(Adm.  by  member's  card.) 

The  statues  in  front  are  Alexander  Hamilton.  DeWitt  Clinton,  and 
John  Jay.  The  statuary  over  the  entrance  and  beneath  the  cornice  is 
symbolical  of  commerce.  Within  an  impressive  staircase  leads  to  the 
hall.  Carved  seats  are  built  against  the  wall.  On  either  side  of  the  desk 
are  beautiful  silver  vessels  presented  in  1824  to  Hon.  DeWitt  Clinton 
"whose  claim  to  the  proud  title  of  'Public  Benefactor'  is  founded  on  those 
magnificent  works  the  Northern  and  Western  Canals."  The  walls  are 
hung  with  members'  portraits,  including  a  painting  of  Washington  by 
Stuart,  The  Atlantic  Cable  Projectors  by  Daniel  Huntington,  Alexander 
Hamilton  by  Trumbull,  and  Cleveland  by  Alexander.  The  Chamber  of 
Commerce  with  1,600  members  today,  organized  in  Fraunces*  Tavern  in 
1768  and  incorporated  in  1770,  is  the  oldest  commercial  organization  in 
the  United  States. 

One  block  to  the  E.,  where  Liberty  and  William  Sts.  are 
cut  by  Maiden  Lane,  are  several  large  insurance  buildings,  the 
most  noticeable  of  which  is  the  20-story  building  of  the 
German- American  Insurance  Co.,  in  the  triangular  plot. 

Maiden  Lane  was  formerly  the  center  of  the  jewelry  and 
silver  trade.  Some  firms  yet  remain.  At  No.  17  is  the 
Silversmiths  Building,  and  the  Jewelers'  Building  adjoins  it. 

The  S.  E.  cor.  of  Nassau  and  Fulton  Sts.  is  the  site  of 
the  Shakespeare  Tavern,  once  a  favorite  gathering  place  for 
men  of  letters:  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  DeWitt  Clinton,  James 
K.  Paulding,  etc.  It  was  here  that  the  7th  Regiment  was 
organized,  August  25,  1724. 

On  the  S.  side  of  John  st.  opposite  Dutch  st.  is  the  John 


132  RIDER^S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

St.  Methodist  Church  (PL  II — C3),  sometimes  called  the 
"Cradle  of  Methodism"  in  America.  The  original  church  was 
built  in  1768,  rebuilt  in  1817,  and  in  1841.  The  building  with 
its  quaint  gallery,  old-fashioned  pews,  memorial  tablets  and 
relics  is  owned  by  the  Church  at  large  and  managed  by  trus- 
tees elected  by  the  General  Conference  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church. 

Somewhere  in  this  vicinity,  along  William  st.  betw.  John 
and  Ann,  the  first  blood  of  the  Revolution  was  shed  by  the 
patriots  in  a  quarrel  following  the  cutting  "down  of  their 
Liberty  Pole.  The  Fight  is  called  the  Battle  of  Golden  Hill. 
Little  record  is  to  be  found  of  it  in  the  histories  beyond  the 
fact  that  it  occurred  Jan.  19,  1770.  No  one  was  killed  but  sev- 
eral were  wounded.    The  exact  site  cannot  be  determined. 

At  No.  126  Nassau  St.  was  once  the  home  of  Mary 
Rogers,  who  sold  cigars  at  Anderson's  store  (Broadway  and 
Duane  St.)  and  was  known  to  Poe,  Fenimore  Cooper  and 
Washington  Irving.  It  was  her  strange  murder  that  sug- 
gested to  Poe  his  story  of  "The  Mystery  of  Marie  Roget." 

The  American  Tract  Society  (organized  1825),  at  125  Nassau  St., 
interdenominational,  has  printed  and  circulated  relirious  literature  in 
175  languages  for  use  in  home  and  foreign  mission  fields.  Over  seven 
hundred  million  books,  pamphlets,  and  tracts  have  been  put  into  circu- 
lation. 

IV.     Broadway  from  Wall  Street  to  City  Hall  Park 

Returning  to  Broadway  on  the  W.  side,  N.  of  Rector  St., 
opposite  the  beginning  of  Wall  st.,  is  the  famous  old  *Trinity 
Church,  a  Gothic  edifice  of  brownstone,  by  Richard  Upjohn, 
192  ft.  long,  80  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high,  with  a  spire  285 
ft.  high,  built  1839-46.     (Special  noon  services  at  12  each  day.) 

History.  The  historic  interest  of  Trinity  parish  is  due  to  the  fact 
that  it  is  the  parent  of  the  Episcopal  Church  in  America.  The  first 
Church  of  English  services  in  this  countr>'  were  held  in  a  little 
chapel  near  the  Battery.  In  1697  a  grant  of  land  "in  or  near  a 
street  without  the  north  gate  of  the  city,  commonly  called  Broadway" 
was  made  to  the  Parish  of  Trinity  Church;  and  in  1705  a  further 
grant  was  made  of  a  tract  west  of  Broadway,  extending  all  the  way  from 
Vcscy  to  Christopher  Street,  and  known  successively  as  the  Annetje 
Jans  Farm,  the  Duke%  the  King's,  and  finally  Queen  Anne's  Farm. 
Excepting  for  the  city  streets  and  the  St.  John's  Park  tract,  Trinity 
Parish  still  owns  practically  all  of  this  valuable  property  (estimated 
now  to  be  worth  over  $17,600,000). 

The  present  Trinity  Church  is  the  third  structure  on  the  present 
aSte.  The  first  building  was  erected  in  1696,  burned  in  the  great  fire 
of  1776;  rebuilt,  1788-90.  The  first  and  second  rectors  were  Mr. 
Vesey  and  the  Rev.  Henry  Barclay,  whose  names  are  commemorated  in 
Vesey  and  Barclay  streets.  During  Mr.  Barclay's  ministry  the  growth 
of  the  church  necessitated  the  erection  of  St.  George's  Chapel,  now  a 
separate  parish  (see  p.  2?4).  and  in  1763  the  second  chapel,  St.  Paul's, 
was    erected.      At    the    outbreak    of    the    revolution    Trinity    remained 


BROADWAY  TO  CITY  HALL  PARK  133 

staunchly  loyal,  and  because  of  the  refusal  to  omit  from  the  prayers 
the  customary  words,  "our  most  gracious  sovereign,  King  George," 
the  church  was  closed  by  the  authorities  and  remained  so  until  the 
entry  of  the  British  into  New  York. 

Trinity  Parish  to-day  maintains  eight  chapels:  The  Chapel  of  the 
Intercession  (p.  34S),  St.  Agnes  Chapel  (p.  243)1  St.  Augustine's 
Chapel  (p.  152),  St.  Chrysostom's  Chapel  (p.  230),  St.  Cornelius's 
Chapel  (p.  106),  St.  Luke's  Chapel  (p.  161),  St.  ifaul's  Chapel  (p. 
137),  Trinity  Chapel  (p.  165).  It  also  gives  aid  to  ten  other 
churches,  all  of  which  do  mission  work  in  the  poor  districts  of  the 
city.  Trinity  Parish  also  appropriates  $20,000  annually  for  beds  in 
St.  Luke's  Hospital,  maintains  a  Cooking  School,  a  Labor  Employ- 
ment Society,  a  Laundry  School,  an  Industrial  School,  Drawing 
Classes,  Manual  Training  Classes,  and  various  guilds  for  boys,  girls 
and  young  men  and  women. 

The  first  objects  of  interest  which  invite  the  visitor's  at- 
tention are  the  three  pairs  of  memorial  bronze  door».  opening 
on  the  front  and  north  and  south  side  entrances.  They  are 
the  gift  of  William  Waldorf  Astor  as  a  rtiemorial  to  his 
father,  the  second  John  Jacob  Astor. 

Main  entrance  doors,  by  Karl  Bitter;  right  door,  upper  panel, 
(Revelations  VI,  15-17),  The  great  day  of  God's  wrath,  when  all  men 
shall  hide  themselves;  middle  panel  (Luke  I,  28-38),  The  Annunciation; 
lower  panel  (Genesis  XXVIII,  10-18),  Jacob's  ladder.  Left  door, 
upper  panel  (Revelations  IV,  6-1 1),  The  Throne  of  God,  the  four  beasts, 
and  the  twenty-four  elders  that  fall  down  and  worship;  middle  panel 
(Matthew  XXVIII,  1-8),  The  angel  at  the  empty  tomb;  lower  panel 
(Genesis   III,   23-24),   The   expulsion   from   paradise. 

North  entrance  doors,  by  /.  Massey  Rhind:  Right  door,  upper 
panel  (Revelations  XX 11),  "Blessed  are  they  that  do  His  command- 
ments, that  they  may  have  right  to  the  tree  of  life,  and  may  enter  in 
through  the  gates  into  the  city";  middle  panel  (Acts  III.  1-2),  The  lame 
man  at  the  temple  gate;  lower  panel  (Revelations  XIX,  1-6),  God  is 
praised  in  heaven  for  avenging  the  blood  of  His  ■  saints.  Left  door, 
uoper  panel,  "Domine,  Quo  Vadis?";  middle  panel  (Acts  XVI.  26-28), 
Miraculous  liberation  of  Paul  and  Silas;  lower  panel  (Exodus  XII,  23), 
The  passover. 

South  entrance  doors,  by  C.  M.  Niehaus:  Right  door,  upper 
panel.  Dedication  of  the  Astor  Reredos,  June  29th,  1877;  middle  panel, 
Consecration  of  four  bishops  in  St.  Paul's  (Ilhapel,  October  3i8t,  183a; 
lower  panel.  Dr.  Barclay  preaching  to  the  Indians,  1739.  Left  door, 
upper  panel.  Consecration  of  Trinity  Church,  May  21st,  1846;  middle 
panel,  Washington  at  St.  Paul's  (^hapel  after  inauguration,  April  30th, 
1789;  lower  panel,  Henry  Hudson  off  Manhattan  Island,  September  nth, 
t6o9. 

Interior.  The  groined  roof  is  supported  by  rows  of  -carved  Gothic 
columns.  But  the  interest  centres  on  the  altar  and  reredos,  memorials 
to  the  late  William  B.  Astor,  erected  by  his  sons.  The  altar  is  of 
white   marble   with    shafts   of   red,   dividing   the   front   and    sides   into 

?anels.  In  the  central  panel  are  passion  flowers,  a  Maltese  cross,  a 
Ihrist  head  and  symbols  of  the  evangelists.  The  super-altar  is  red 
Lisbon  marble  with  the  words  "Holy!  Holy!  Holy!"  in  mosaic.  The 
reredos  is  of  Caen  stone,  carved  in  foliated  designs.  Above  the  super- 
altar  are  seven  white  marble  panels  showing  scenes  from  the  life  of 
Christ  just  before  and  after  the  Last  Supper.  Buttresses  divide  the 
reredos  into  three  bays,  which  contain  statuettes  of  the  twelve  apostles. 
Behind  the  reredos  is  a  stained  glass  window,  with  figures  of  Christ 
and  the  twelve  apostles. 


134  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

In  a  passageway,  north  of  the  channel,  are  an  effigy  of  Bishop 
Onderdonckf  memorial  windows  to  other  bishops,  and  some  ttonet 
from  the  old  edifice. 

Graveyard.  The  dead  are  interred  in  vaults,  the  location  being 
marked  by  slabs  set  into  the  pavement  and  the  erass.  The  visitor 
encounters  a  host  of  old  family  names  that  have  ngured  prominently 
for  more  than  two  centuries  in  the  social  and  political  history  of  New 
York:  Laights,  Bronsons,  Ogdens,.  Lispenards,  Bleeckers,  Livingstons, 
Apthorps, .  tiofimans,  to  mention  only  a  few.  Many^  of  the  inscrip- 
tions of  the  individual  tomb-stones  are  quaint  and  interesting.  But 
for  the  hurried  sight-seer,  the  following  graves  at  least  should  be 
visited : 

Beginning  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of  front  vestibule,  Samuel  Johnson, 
President  of  King's  College  (tablet  in  pavement);  continuing  west 
along  north  side  ot  church,  take  first  path  to  right,  and  note  (on  left) 
grave  of  William  Bradford,  friend  of  William  Penn  and  i>rinter  of  the 
New  York  Gazette,  the  first  newspaper  published  in  the  city.  Keeping 
still  to  right,  follow  easternmost  curve  northward,  passing  graves  of 
Ann  Churcher  and  her  brother  Richard  (oldest  grave,  1681),  and  of 
Sidney  Breese,  ancestor  of  Samuel  F.  Breese  Morse,  inventor  of  the 
Atlantic  cable.  Diagonally  opposite,  on  east  side  of  path,  Charlotte 
Temple,  popularly  identified  with  the  unfortunate  heroine  of  the  roman- 
tic novel  of  that  name.  Further  north,  near  the  street,  the  Firemen's 
Monument,  and  in  the  N.  E.  comer,  the  Martyrs'  Memorial,  erected 
to  the  soldiers  and  patriots  who  died  in  British  prisons  during  the 
Revolution.  It  was  placed  intentionally  at  a  point  directly  opposite 
Pine  Street,  at  a  time  when  it  was  proposed  to  extend  that  street 
westward  across  the  Trinity  property.  Go  west  along  the  northern 
path  to  the  third  turning;  note  on  left  stone  marked  "Pierre  Perret. 
preached  to  the  French  Church  17  years  and  died  September,  1704." 
Next,  Benjamin  Faneuil,  father  of  Peter  Faneuil,  whose  name  is  per- 
petuated in  Faneuil  Hall,  Boston.  At  end  of  path,  near  the  N.  W. 
comer  of  the  church,  Michael  Cresap,  first  captain  of  the  Rifle  Bat- 
teries (died  1775).  It  was  the  men  in  his  command  who  without 
authorization  exterminated  the  family  of  the  Indian  chief,  Logan,  "the 
friend  of  the  white  man." 

Directly  in  the  centre  of  the  northern  half  of  the  churchyard  stands 
the  recently  erected  Trinitv  Church-Yard  Cross,  by  Thomas  Nash,  a 
memorial  to  Mrs.  William  Astor,  given  by  her  daughter,  Caroline  Astor 
Wilson  (1914).  The  twelve  panels  of  the  shaft,  three  on  each  of  its 
four  sides,  set  forth  the  genealogy  of  Christ,  as  given  by  St.  Luke,  the 
series  beginning  with  the  lower  panel  on  the  east  side  and  continuing 
in  rotation  towar4s  the  right:  i.  Adam  and  Eve;  2.  Seth;  3.  Enoch; 
4.  Noah;  5.  Shem;  6.  Abraham;  7.  Isaac;  8.  Jacob;  9.  Judah;  10.,  Ruth; 
XI.  Jesse;  u.  David.  The  cross  above  the  shaft  bears  on  one  side  the 
Cruc'fixion,   and   on   the   other   the   Afother   and   Child. 

Proceeding  around  the  rear  of  the  church  to  the  south  side, 
we  find,  at  the  S.  W.  corner  the  vault  of  Anthony  J.  Bleecker.  South- 
west, near  the  rear  fence,  half  hidden  under  bushes,  the  grave  of  Sir 
William  Alexander,  Earl  of  Stirling,  valued  friend  of  Washingtoiu  who 
gave  up  a  coronet  in  order  to  fight  for  American  independence.  Facing 
the  south  wall  of  church,  towards  the  east,  in  the  following  order: 
Albert  Gallatin,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  1801-1813;  John  Clark; 
John  Slidell;  General  Clarkson.  Go  south  along  western  path:  At  S.  E. 
corner  of  first  branch  to  left,  Marinus  Willett,  famous  "Liberty  Bov"; 
directly  opposite  (west)  General  Phil.  Kearney  (in  the  Watts  vault). 
Continuing  on  path  near  Rector  street  side:  (left)  Rev.  Henry  Barclay, 
second  rector  of  Trinity;  (right)  memorial  tablet  to  Robert  Fulton; 
Alexander  Hamilton;  the  Danish  consul,  Nanstadt;  (at  east  apex  of 
central  green)  John  Watts,  founder  of  the  Leake  and  Watts  Orphan 
Asylum.     Near  S.  E.  comer  of  church:  M.  L.  Davis,  friend  of  Aaron 


BROADWAY  TO  CITY  HALL  PARK  135 

Burr  and  his  second  in  the  duel  with  Hamilton;  Captain  Tames  Law- 
rence, U.  S.  N.,  who  fell,  June  tst,  181 3,  in  the  action  between  the 
frigates  Chesapeake  and  Shannon,  and  whose  dying  words  were  "Don't 

C'ye  up  the  ship!"    Captain  Lawrence's  widow  and  his  executive  officer, 
ieut.  A.  C.  Ludlow,  are  buried  with  him. 

The  United  Bank  Building  stands  on  the  N.E.  corner  of  Wall  St.. 
the  low  Scherraerhorn  Building  next,  with  the  33-story  American  Surety 
Building  on  Pine  st.  comer.  The  owners  of  the  American  Stlrety 
Building  have  protected  themselves  against  the  erection  of  any  building 
which  would  cut  off  their  light  by  leasing  the  Schermerhorn  for  99 
years  at  an  annual  rental  of  $75,000. 

On  the  W.  side,  N.  of  Trinity,  stands  the  21-story  Trinity 
Building,  with  Gothic  fagades  on  Broadway  and  the  Church- 
yard. Adjoining  this,  in  the  same  style,  is  the  United  States 
Realty  Building.  The  entire  cost  of  the  two  buildings  and 
the  lots  on  which  they  are  erected  was  $15,000,000.  Farther 
on,  at  No.  141,  is  the  Washington  Life  Building. 

On  the  E.  side,  betw.  Pine  and  Cedar  Sts.,  is  the  new 
^Equitable  Life  Assurance  Building,  replacing  the  building 
destroyed  by  fire  in  January,  1912,  36  stories  high  and  rated 
as  the  largest  in  the  world.  In  the  next  block,  betw.  Cedar 
and  Liberty  Sts.,  on  the  E.  side,  No.  128,  is  the  16-story 
American  Exchange  National  Bank,  a  fine  banking  and 
office  building.  This  bank,  founded  in  1838,  and  nationalized 
in  1865,  has  total  resources  in  excess  of  $70,000,000,  its  capital 
and  surplus  being  nearly  $10,000,000.  Adjoining  is  the  Gwir- 
anty  Trust  Company. 

On  the  W.  side  betw.  Liberty  and  Cortlandt  sts.,  is  the 
♦Singer  Building  (PI.  II— B3)  with  its  picturesque  tower 
(Ernest  Flagg,  architect),  41  stories  (612  feet)  high.  It  is 
built  without  wood,  contains  nine  and  one-half  acres  floor 
space,  552  vacuum  cleaners,  600  lavatories,  and  3425  miles  of 
wiring.  The  tower  rests  on  36  caissons  sunk  to  bed  rock  92 
feet  below  the  curb  and  is  anchored  to  withstand  a  wind 
pressure  of  30  pounds  per  square  foot.  At  night  it  is  lighted 
with  13,000,000  candle-power  of  electricity  and  is  visible  for 
a  distance  of  40  imiles. 

Next  door  is  the  *City  Investing  Building,  34  stories  high 
and  contains  13^^  acres  of  floor  space. 

On  the  E.  side,  at  No.  160,  is  the  Lawyers^  Title  Insurance 
and  Trust  Company.  On  the  corner  is  the  Broadway-Maiden 
Lane  Building,  while  beyond  is  the  low  Title  Guarantee  Trust 
Company's  Building. 

On  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Dey  St.  is  the  Western  Union 
Telegraph  Company.  At  noon,  each  day,  a  time-ball  drops 
down  a  pole  on  the  tower. 

In  Church  St.,  one  block  to  the  W.  of  Broadway,  stand 
the  twin  *Hudson  Terminal  Buildings    (p.   17),  Cortlandt 


136  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Building,  between  Cortlandt  and  Dey  Sts.,  Fulton  Building, 
between  Dey  and  Fulton  Sts,  22  stories,  and  together  forming 
a  huge  office  building  joined  in  the  upper  stories  by  a  bridge 
across  Dey  St. 

The  primary  object  of  the  Hudson  Terminal  Buildings 
is  to  provide  a  terminus  for  the  Hudson  Tubes  but  the 
cost  of  the  land  was  so  high — from  $40  to  $45  a  square 
foot — ^that  the  huge  office  building  was  erected  to  pay 
interest  upon  the  land  investment.  (Jacobs  and  Davies, 
engineers.  Clinton  and  Russell,  architects;  George  A.  Fuller, 
contractor.)  The  foundation  is  a  marvellous  piece  of  caisson 
structure,  for  in  addition  to  the  problem  of  dealing  with  the 
quicksands  that  lay  betw.  the  surface  and  bedrock,  the  engi- 
neers had  to  safeguard  the  surrounding  buildings  which 
stood  upon  old  and  insecure  foundations.  Bedrock  upon 
which  the  foundation  rests,  is  at  the  deepest  point  no  ft. 
below  the  surface. 

The  Concourse  Floor  may  be  entered  from  the  ground  floor  of  the 
building,  or  from  the  streets  on  broad  ramps.  The  exits  and  entrances 
were  calculated  by  a  study  of  the  movement  of  crowds  during  the  rush 
hours  on  Brooklyn  Bridge.  Ticket  booths  are  conveniently  located  and 
plainly  marked  near  the  train  stairways.  All  trains  are  on  the  floor 
beneath.  The  various  New  Jersey  railroads  have  ticket  oflices  on  the 
Concourse  Floor.  Every  variety  of  shop  is  here  for  the  convenience  of 
the  commuter,  as  well  as  all  the  conveniences  of  a  large  railroad 
station.     The  finishing  is  glazed  with  terra  cotta. 

The  two  oflice  buildinjss  overhead  are  22  stories  high  with  a  con- 
tents of  15,000,006  cubic  leet.  The  rental  area,  exclusive  of  the  Con- 
course Floor  is  815,000  square  ft.  The  buildings  are  connected  by  a 
bridge  over  Dey  st.  on  the  3rd  floor  and  on  the  same  floor  with  the 
Cortlandt  st.  station  of  the  Sixth  ave.  elevated.  The  enormous  size  of 
the  buildings  is  indicated  by  the  amount  of  building  material  used, 
17,000,000  bricks  and  27,000  tons  of  steel. 

Two  large  clubs  occupy  the  upper  floors:  The  Machinery  Club  is 
housed  in  the  21st  and  22d  floors  of  the  Fulton  Building,  and  the 
Railroad  Club  in  the  top  floor  of  the  Cortlandt  Building. 

The  sculptured  clock  standards  are  by  Karl  Bitter. 

Fulton  St.  (PI.  II — 2)  runs  E.  and  W.  ^cross  Manhattan 
from  the  East  River  to  the  Hudson,  with  a  market  at  either 
end.  At  the  East  River,  adjoining  Fulton  Ferry,  is  Fulton 
Market,  where  the  fishing  boats  land  in  the  evening  and  dis- 
charge their  cargo  of  fish,  oysters,  clams,  etc.  Early  in  the 
morning  the  retail  dealers  come  to  purchase  their  supplies. 
At  the  W.  end  is  Washington  Market  (Pl.II — A2),  formerly 
important,  but  now  almost  replaced  by  Gansevoort  Market  in 
wholesale  trade.     The  business  done  here  is  mainly  retail. 

Washington  Market  occupies  an  entire  city  block.  The  structure 
housing  it  has  been  recently  entirely  rebuilt  and  modernized.  The 
exterior  is  ornamented  with  a  sort  of  frieze  of  animals*  heads  in  terra- 
cotta, bulls,  rams,  pigs,  etc.,  recurring  at  regular  intervals. 


BROADWAY  TO  WALL  STREET  137 

On  Broadway,  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Fulton  St.,  is  the 
Mail  and  Express  Building. 

♦St.   Paul's  Chapel    (PL   II— B2)    on  the  W.   side  of 

Broadway,  betw.  Fulton  and  Vesey  sts.,  was  the  third  to  be 

built  and  is  now,  through  the  destruction  of  the  first  two 

buildings,  the  oldest  church  edifice  in  the  city.     (Enter  by 

the  E.  door.    Special  service  for  night  workers  at  2  .-30  a.  m.) 

It  was  built,  by  McBean,  in  1764-6,  the  steeple  being  added 

in  1794. 

The  interior,  less  decorated  than  Trinity's,  is  heated  by  stoves  in 
the  four  corners.  The  pew  occupied  by  Washmg^ton  on  the  N.  side  is 
marked  by  the  shield  of  the  United  States  on  the  wall,  and  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  church  is  the  pew  occupied  by  Governor  Clinton,  marked  by 
the  shield  of  the  State.  Behind  the  chancel  lies  the  body  of  General 
Richard  Montgomery,  killed  at  the  storming  of  Quebec  on  Christmas  Day, 
1775.  The  Cnurchyard  is  open  to  the  public.  On  the  N.  side  are  the 
graves  of  Dr.  Wm.  James  McNevin,  and  Charles  Mordeck,  a  Hessian 
captain  (1782X  On  the£.  side  of  the  church  facing  Broadway  is  a 
memorial  to  General  Montgomery.  On  the  S.  £.  side,  close  by  the 
church  is  the  grave  of  Thomas  Addis  Emmett,  the  Iriso  patriot.  The 
oldest  grave  is  on  the  Fulton  st.  side,  near  the  fence  to  the  W.  of  the 
central  path;  Francis  Dring  (1767).  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  path 
nearby  is  the  grave  of  John  Holt,  editor  of  the  New  York  Gasette  (1784). 
Another  interesting  grave  is  that  of  George  Frederick  Cooke  (1756- 
1812),  an  English  actor  from  the  Theatre  Royal,  Drury  Lane,  the  first 
male  star  to  come  to  America.  He  made  his  first  appearance  October  21, 
1 810,  at  the  Park  Theatre  (p.  140),  not  far  from  his  place  of  burial. 
His  monument,  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  western  half  of  the  church- 
yard, was  erected  by  Edmund  Kean.     The  lines  on  the  monument, 

"Three  kingdoms  claim  his  birth; 
Both  hemispheres  pronounce  his  worth," 

were  written  by  Fitz-Greene  Halleck.  Further  inscriptions  show  that 
the  stone  was  repaired  by  Charles  Kean  in  1846;  by  E.  A.  Sothern  in 
1874;  and  by  Edwin  Booth  in  1890. 

At  the  S.  E.  comer  of  Ann  st.  is  the  26-story  St.  Paul  Building. 

Overlooking  St.  Paul's,  on  the  north  side  of  Vesey  Street, 
is  the  Evening  Post  Building  (1903).  It  is  built  of  gray 
Indiana  limestone,  the  main  fagade  containing  bay  windows  of 
cast  iron,  bronze-finished.  The  editorial  offices  are  on  the 
loth  floor. 

The  facade  repays  some  study.  The  spandrils  of  the  windows, 
from  the  3rd  to  the  7th  story,  are  ornamented  with  oval  reliefs,  taken 
from  the  marks  of  well  known  printers  of  the  i6th  and  i7th  cen- 
turies: Namely,  i.  Elzevir  of  Amsterdam,  1620;  2.  Jacopus  01  Strass- 
burg,  1550;  3.  Nicolaus  of  Francordia,  15 10;  Thomas  Brunnen  of  Paris, 
X575»  Aldus  of  Venice,  1540.  (Models  executed  by  Miss  Harriet  Clark.) 

At  the  level  of  the  9th  story  are  four  heroic  sized  statues,  in  lime- 
stone, typifying  "Four  Periods  of  Publicity."  They  are:  i.  "By  Spoken 
Wora,"  a  male  figure  leaning  forward  to  listen;  2.  "By  Written  Text," 
a  monk;  3.  "By  Printed  Text,"  a  printer  of  the  period  of  Guttenberg; 
4.  "Indicative  of  the  Potentialities  of  the  Newspaper,"  shows  an  editor 
in  modern  garb.  Sculptors:  Gutzon  Borglum  and  Estelle  Rumbold 
Rohn  (two  each). 

The  block  betw.  Vesey  and  Barclay  sts.  on  Broadway  was  occupied 
until  19 1 3  by  the  famous  old  Aator  House,  the  northern  half  of  wnich 


138  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

is  still  standing.  This  block  was  originally  the  site  of  the  Church 
Farm  House,  later  turned  into  a  tavern,  the  Drovers'  Inn.  Afterwards 
it  contained  the  home  of  J.  J.  Astor,  J.  C.  Coster  and  Jacob  Lydig. 
The  Astor  House  was  built  in  1834-38. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Barclay  and  Church  Sts.  is  St.  Peter's 
Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  II — B2),  the  oldest  Roman 
Catholic  edifice  in  the  city,  built  in  1839. 

On  the  block  betw.  Barclay  and  Park  PI.  rises  the  60-story 
**  Wool  WORTH  Building  (PI.  II — B2),  which  takes  its  name 
from  being  financed  by  Frank  W.  Woolworth,  the  head  of  the 
5  and  10  cent  store  system.  Admission  to  the  observation 
gallery  50c.;  open  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

This  building  is  extremely  interesting  both  as  an  engineering  feat 
and  as  a  new  architectural  treatment  of  the  loft  building  {Cass  Gilbert, 
architect.)  The  foundation  is  sunk  through  115  ft.  of  quicksand  to  bed 
rock,  and  consists  of  69  piers  of  partly  reinforced  concrete.  Each  of 
the  main  columns  is  3  ft.  6  in.  by  3  ft.  8  in.  at  the  base  and  is  designed 
to  carry  a  maximum  load  of  4750  tons.  The  engineering  calculations 
are  based  upon  a  maximum  wind  pressure  of  30  lbs.  per  square  foot 
over  the  entire  exposed  surface  ox  the  building  and  a  total  building 
weight  of   125,000  tons. 

The  height  is  792  feet;  the  number  of  stories,  60;  the  total  esti- 
mated weight,  206,000,000  lbs.;  the  floor  area,  40  acres;  the  number 
of  electric  lights,  80,000;  while  the  combined  height  of  the  28  elevator 
shafts  is  two  miles.  The  architectural  treatment  is  an  extremely 
original  combination  of  office  building  and  cathedral,  and  despite  its  huge 
bulk,  an  extraordinary  effect  of  grace  and  lightness  has  been  obtained. 
The  exterior  walls,  up  to  seven  feet  above  the  curb  line,  are  of  polished 
Maine  granite;  above  that  elevation,  up  to  the  43d  story,  the  material 
is  Bedford  limestone;  and  above  that,  terra  cotta — said  to  be  the  most 
complicated  architectural  terra  cotta  in  the  world.  The  exterior  carv- 
ings, by  Donnally  and  Ricci,  deserve  examination;  notably,  the  arch  of 
the  main  entrance,  the  bas-relief  heads,  typifying  Europe,  Asia,  Africa 
and  America,  that  repeat  themselves  along  the  line  of  the  second  story, 
and  the  curious  gargoyles  on  the  29th,  49th  and  51st  floors.  Bats, 
pelicans,    frogs,   owls,    etc.,    disport   themselves   at   these   dizzy    heights. 

Entering  from  the  Broadway  side,  we  find  ourselves  in  a  broad  and 
lofty  corridor  glowing  with  an  oriental  lavishness  of  color.  The  walls, 
stairs  and  balconies  are  of  rich  marble,  mostly  from  Vermont;  green- 
veined  cream  Pavonazzo,  contrasted  with  American  Sienna.  The 
ornamental  work  is  mainly  of  wrought  iron  covered  with  ,pure  gold  jeaf . 
The  vaulted  ceiling,  by  Heinigke  and  Bowen,  is  of  glass  mosaic,  delicate 
traceries  in  different  shades  of  green  against  a  gold  background  in  the 
midst  of  w^jich  resplendent  red  parrots  disport  themselves. 

At  the  half-way  point,  where  the  transverse  corridors  diverge  to  the 
Park  Place  and  Barclay  St.  entrances,  there  are  two  mezzanine  bal- 
conies, on  the  rear  walls  of  which  are  two  lunettes  containing  mural 
paintings  by  Paul  Jennerwein;  north  wall,  Labor,  a  female  figure 
enthroned,  holding  a  distaff;  on  either  side,  kneeling  hoys  with  offennn 
of  grain  and  fruit;  south  wall,  Commerce,  a  female  figure  enthroned, 
holding  the  globe;  on  either  side,  kneeling  boys  offer  a  ship  and  a 
locomotive.  These  frescoes  cannot  be  seen  to  advantage  from  below; 
the  visitor,  however,  caiL  reach  the  northern  balcony  through  the  rooms 
of  the  Irving  Bank. 

One  quaint  feature  which  sftiould  not  be  missed  is  the  series  of 
carved  figures,  half  caricature,  half  portrait,  which  seem  to  be  bearing 
the  weight  of  the  cross  beams  of  the  side  corridors  upon  their  shoulders. 
It  is  an  open  secret  that  these  are  portrait  busts  of  Mr.  Woolworth.  Mr. 


CITY  HALL  PARK  AND  VICINITY  139 

Cass  Gilbert,  the  architect,  and  various  members  of  the  construction 
company.  The  first  two  mentioned  are  immediately  beneath  the  south 
balcony;  Mr.  Gilbert  may  be  identified  by  the  miniature  model  of  the 
Woolworth  Building  in  his  arms;  facing  him,  Mr.  Woolworth  is  con- 
tentedly adding  one  more  five-cent  piece  to  the  ample  pile  already 
beside  him. 

In  the  Rathskeller  below,  in  the  basement,  notice  the  mural  decora- 
tions by  Frederick  J.  Wiley,  picturing  mediaeval  hunting  scenes,  tower- 
ing castles,  wandpring  troubadors,  knightly  horsemen,  and  wina-driven 
galleons. 

On  the  9th  floor  is  the  Merchants  Association,  an  organization  de- 
voted to  the  civic,  industrial,  commercial  and  professional  interests  of 
the  city. 

The  ^Observation  Gallery  is  open  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Tickets 
(50  cents)  may  be  obtained  at  the  news-stand  at  the  Barclay 
St.  entrance.  Six  express  elevators,  running  at  a  speed  of 
700  feet  per  minute,  the  fastest  electric  elevator  service  in  the 
world,  take  the  visitor  to  the  56th  floor,  from  which  a  shuttle 
elevator  runs  to  the  gallery. 

The  elevator^  are  equipped  with  air  cushions  extending  one-fifth 
the  height  of  the  shafts.  If  an  elevator  should  chance  to  drop  from 
the  topmost  story,  it  would  be  brought  gently  and  harmlessly  to  rest 
at  the  bottom.  The  massive  steel  doors,  designed  to  re»st  the  tremend- 
ous pressure  of  air,  are  of  such  weight  that  a  special  pneumatic  device 
had  to  be  designed  to  open  and  close  them.  The  roar  produced  by 
escaping  air,  within  the  cushioned  section  of  the  shaft  is  rather  startling 
when  first  experienced. 

Broadway  now  skirts  the  W.  side  of  City  Hall  Park, 
In  the  triangle  of  land  at  the  S.  end  stands  the  old  Post  Office, 
built  in  1875,  a  renaissance  building  with  a  frontage  of 
89  ft,  sides  280  ft.,  and  rear,  facing  the  pafk,  277  ft  In 
the  corridor  by  the  western  entrance  is  a  tablet  commemo- 
rating the  raising  of  the  Liberty  poles  and  the  Battle  of 
Golden  Hill.  S.  E.  corridor  contains  a  tablet  and  bust  to 
Postmaster  Pearson.  The  building  has  been  long  over- 
crowded, and  the  new  office  on  Eighth  Ave.,  betw.  31st  and 
33d  Sts.,  is  now  the  main  office.     (Post  Office  Dept,  p.  44.) 

V;     City  Hall  Park  and  Vicinity 

• 

Park  Row  (PI.  II — B2)  runs  from  No.  i  Ann  st.  N,  E.  to 
Chatham  sq.,  skirting  City  Hall  Park.  Near  the  intersection 
of  Park  Row  and  Nassau  st.  are  many  of  the  New  York 
newspaper  buildings.  The  Pulitzer  Building,  corner  of  Frank- 
fort st,  containing  the  World  offices,  is  of  brownstone, 
with  a  gilded  dome.  The  Sun  Building  formerly  on  the 
opposite  corner  of  Frankfort  st.,  erected  in  181 1  as  Tam- 
many Hall,  has  recently  been  demolished.  The  Tribune's 
tall  building  rises  to  the  W.,  in  the  same  block,  with  a  clock 
tower.  In  front  of  the  Tribune  Building  formerly  stood  a 
bronze  figure  of  its  famous  founder,  Horace  Greeley  (1811- 


140  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

72),  by  /.  Q.  A.  Ward,  erected  in  1872  and  presented  to  the 
city  in  1890.  This  statue  has  recently  been  moved  to  City 
Hall  Park  and  stands  just  south  of  the  City  Court.  Opposite 
the  Post  Office  is  the  30-story  Park  Row  Building,  which  was 
in  1899  the  highest  building  in  the  world. 

It  occupies  in  part  the  site  of  the  old  Park  Theatre,  the  memory 
of  which  still  survives  in  Theatre  Alley,  the  narrow  lane  which  passes 
in  the  rear,  from  Ann  to  Beekman  sts.  and  which  was  originally 
the  stage  passage  to   the   theatre. 

The  Park  Theatre  was  first  built  in  1798,  burned  in  1820,  rebuilt 
and  again  burned  in  1848.  It  was  here  that  Junius  Brutus  Booth  made 
his  debut;  Edmund  Kean  and  Edwin  Forrest  played  here;  it  was  the 
scene  of  the  Kean  riot,  Nov.  14,  1825;  it  was  the  scene  of  the  first 
Italian  opera  given  in  America,  Nov.  29,  1825;  the  Ravels  and  Charles 
and  Fanny  Kemble  played  here;  and  here  also  Fanny  Elssler  introduced 
the  Ballet  into  America.  In  1842  a  ball  was  given  at  the  Park  Theatre 
in  honor  of  Charles  Dickens. 

Opposite  the  newspaper  offices,  in  the  open  called 
Printing  House  Square,  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Benjamin 
Franklin,  presented  in  1867  by  Capt.  Albert  de  Groot  to  the 
printers  and  press  of  New  York.  One  block  E.  of  Park  Row, 
at  Spruce  and  William  sts.,  are  statues  of  Franklin  and  Guten- 
berg on  the  front  of  the  Staats  Zeitung  Building.  Dolan's 
Restaurant,  33  Park  Row,  contains  a  model  of  the  buildings 
on  this  block  as  they  stood  about  1800. 

♦♦Brooklyn  Bridge  (PL  II — Ci),  stretching  from  City 
Hall  Park,  Manhattan,  to  Sands  and  Washington  sts., 
Brooklyn,  was*  completed  in  1883,  after  13  years*  labor.  The 
bridge  affords  accomodation  for  two  railway  tracks,  two 
carriage  roadways  used  also  by  electric  cars,  and  a  wide, 
raised  footway  in  the  center.  It  was  designed  by  John  A. 
Roehling  (d.  1869),  and  was  completed  by  his  son.  Washing- 
ton Roehling.  The  surface  and  elevated  roads  of  Brooklyn 
cross  the  bridge  to  its  New  York  terminus  (fare  to  any  part 
of  Brooklyn,  5  cents;  fare  to  cross  bridge  only,  3  cents,  or  2 
tickets  for  5  cents,  on  local  bridge  trains,  p.  iii). 

From  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  the  Park,  Frankfort  St.,  ("News- 
paper Row")  runs  E.  under  shadow  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  to 
Franklin  Sq.  and  Pearl  St.  It  was  named  in  honor  of  Frank- 
fort, Germany,  the  birthplace  of  Jacob  Leisler,  executed  for 
treason  in  1691  on  his  own  farm  in  this  neighborhood.  His 
memory  is  also  preserved  in  Jacob  St.,  adjoining  Frankfort. 

At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Pearl  St.,  facing  Franklin  Sq.,  is 
the  old  established  publishing  house  of  Harper  &  Brothers, 
founded  in  1818  (present  building;,  1854).  Diagonally  opposite 
on  the  eastern  pier  of  the  bridge,  in  Franklin  Sq.,  is  a  tablet 
recording  the  fact  that  here  was  approximately  the  site  of 


CITY  HALL  PA^K  AND  VICINITY  141 

No.  3  Cherry  St.,  where  Washington  lived  at  the  time  of  his 
inauguration.  This  section  was  earlier  known  as  Cherry  Hill, 
named  from  a  cherry  orchard  belonging  to  Mayor  Thomas 
Delancey 

At  No.  5  Cherry  St.  was  the  home  of  John  Hancock.  No.  23, 
formerly  known  as  "The  Well,"  was  a  favorite  resort  of  captains  of 
privateers  during  the  War  of  181 2.  No.  24  was  the  birth-place  of 
Wm.  M.  Tweed.  No.  27  was  the  home  of  Capt.  Samuel  Chester  Reid,  com- 
mander of  the  privateer  General  Armstrong,  which  he  himself  sunk 
off  the  coast  of  the  Azores,  to  keep  it  from  falling  into  the  hands  of 
the  British,  after  a  spirited  engagement  with  six  English  vessels. 
It  was  here  that  Capt.  Reid  designed  the  present  American  flag,  with 
13  stripes  commemorating  the  13  original  states,  and  a  progressive 
scheme  of  stars  to  keep  pace  with  the  successive  new  additions. 

Retracing  our  steps  to  City  Hall  Park  we  should  note  the 
♦♦City  Hall  itself  (PI.  II — Ci),  open  to  visitors  from  10  to  4, 
Sat.  10  to  12,  containing  the  headquarters  of  the  Mayor  of 
Greater  New  York,  the  Board  of.  Aldermen  and  Art  Com- 
mission. It  is  of  Stockbridge  (Mass.)  marble  in  the  Italian 
Renaissance  style,  with  a  central  portico,  two  projecting  wings, 
and  a  cupola  clock  tower;  architect,  John  McComb.  The  cor- 
nerstone was  laid  on  the  site  of  the  old  almshouse  by  Mayor 
Edward  Livingston  in  1803.  The  building  was  first  occupied 
by  the  city  government  in  181 1,  but  was  not  completed  until 
1812.  The  cost  of  the  structure  was  about  half  a  million  dol- 
lars. The  rear  of  the  building  was  built  of  brownstone,  be- 
cause at  that  tirpe  it  was  not  anticipated  that  the  city  would 
ever  extend  further  north   (  !),  but  is  now  painted  white  and 

not  readily  detected  from  the  marble. 

Many  celebrations  have  taken  place  here:  the  200th  anniversary  of 
the  discovery  of  Manhattan  by  Henry  Hudson;  the  visit  of  Lafayette  in 
1834";  the  opening  of  the  Erie  Canal  in  1825;  the  Croton  Water  open- 
ing in  1842;  the  laying  of  the  Atlantic  Cable  in  1858;  the  visit  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales  in  i860:  the  centenary  of  Washington's  inauguration 
in  1889;  the  250th  anniversary  of  the  City  Charter,  1903;  and  the 
Hudson  Fulton  celebration  in  1909.  The  bodies  of  several  persons 
whom  the  city  wished  to  honor  have  lain  in  state  in  the  City  Hall. 
Among  these  were  President  Lincoln  in  April,  1865;  General  Grant  in 
August,  1885;  John  Howard  Payne,  author  of  "Home,  Sweet  Home," 
in  1883;  General  Worth,  1857;  and  Mayor  Gaynor,   191 3. 

Ascending  the  steps,  either  on  the  north  or  south  side,  the 
visitor  finds  himself  in  a  central  rotunda,  with  curving  stairs 
ascending  to  right  and  left,  to  a  circular  gallery  on  the  second 
floor.  In  this  gallery,  on  the  north  side  stands  a  statue  of 
Thomas  Jefferson,  by  David  d'  Angers,  (the  painted  plaster 
original  from  which  was  made  the  bronze  replica  in  the 
National  Capital)  presented  in  1854  by  Commodore  Uriah 
P.  Levy,  U.  S.  N.  On  the  south  side,  opposite  the  stairs,  is 
the  entrance  to  the  *Governor^s  Room,  now  known  as  the 
Trumbull  Room.  In  point  of  fact,  it  is  now  a  suite  of  three 
rooms,  including  the  Grand  Jury  Room  on  the  east  and  the 


142  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Council  Chamber  on  the  west,  the  doors  to  which  were 
not  cut  through  until  1859.  The  furniture  in  these  rooms,  of 
solid  mahogany,  consists  of  the  original  chairs  and  tables 
used  in  the  old  Federal  Building  at  Wall  and  Nassau  streets 
(see  p.  127).  Through  a  donation  by  Mrs.  Russell  Sage  in 
1909  and  subsequent  gifts  amounting  altogether  to  $65,000, 
these  rooms  have  been  restored  to  their  original  severe  and 
simple  dignity.  The  few  ornaments,  clocks,  candlesticks,  etc., 
on  the  mantel  shelves,  while  not  historically  associated  with 
City  Hall,  have  been  sought  out  with  much  pains  and  are 
strictly  of  the  correct  period  and  appropriate  in  style.  One 
of  the  valued  relics  here  shown  is  a  portion  of  a  limb  of 
Feter  Stuyvesanfs  Pear  Tree  (see  p.  157),  which  formerly 
stood  at  the  corner  of  Third  avenue  and  13th  street 

These  three  rooms  now  contain  the  following  portraits:  Trumbull 
Room,  beginning  on  west  walj,  by  the  window  and  continuing  towards 
the  right:  i.  Peter  Stuyvesant,  Governor  of  New  York,  1647-64; 
2.  George  Washington;  3.  Edward  Livingston,  Mayor  of  New  York, 
1801-3;  4.  John  Jay,  Governor  of  New  York,  1 795-1 829;  5.  Alexander 
Hamilton;  6.  Morgan  Lewis,  Governor  of  New  York,  1804-7;  7-  Daniel 
D.  Tompkins,  Governor  of  New  York,  1807-17;  8.  Richard  Varick, 
Mayor  of  New  York,  17 89-1 801;  9.  George  Clinton,  Governor  of  New 
York,  1777-95*  1801-4;  10.  James  Duane,  Mayor  of  New  Yorl^  1784-89. 
All  of  these  paintings  are  by  John  Trumbull  (1756-1843).  Note  espe- 
cially in  the  portrait  of  Washington  the  background,  showing  a  view 
of  the  lower  end  of  New  York  more  than  a  century  ago. 

Eatt  Room,  beginning  on  south  wall  and  continuing  around  the 
room  to  left:  i.  Joseph  C.  Yates«  Governor  of  New  York,  1823-25,  by 
John  Vanderlyn;  2.  James  S.  Morton,  United  States  General,  by  Charles 
Wesley  Jarvis;  3.  Gideon  Lee,  Mayor  of  New  York,  1833-34,  by  Henry 
Inman;  4.  Washington  Hunt,  Governor  of  New  York,  1851-52,  by 
Charles  L,  Elliott;  5.  Horatio  Seymour.  Governor  of  New  York,  1853-54, 
1863-64,  by  Charles  L.  Elliott;  6.  William  L.  Marcy,  Governor  of  New 
York,  1833-38,  by  William  Page;  t.  John  Young,  Governor  of  New 
York,  1847-49,  by  Henry  P.  Gray.  In  front  of  the  east  mantel  is  the 
Desk  of  Thomas  Jefferson. 

West  Room,  beginning  on  north  wall  and  continuing  to  left: 
I.  Enos  Thompson  Throop,  Governor  of  New  York.  1829-32,  by  Robert 
W.  Weir;  2.  Martin  Van  Buren,  President  of  the  United  States,  1837- 
41,  by  H^nry  Inman;  3.   William  C.   Bouck,   Governor  of   New  York, 


,      .,       ^.,..,..      .    ..WW.....       ^.      j^^.^      ^.IgerSOU,        ,.a..^J.v.u      ua      u<«      JLU>t.      XIM. 

New  York,  1820-39,  Artist  unknown;  7.  DeWitt  Clinton,  Governor  of 
New  York,  1817-23,  1828,  by  George  Catlin.  On  west  mantel  is  a 
marble  bust  of  DeWitt  Clinton.  In  front  of  the  middle  window  is 
the  Desk  of  John  Adams;  opposite  against  north  wall,  the  Desk  of 
Alexander  Hamilton. 

Returning  to  the  Rotunda  gallery,  we  turn  to  the  left  into  the 
corridor  leading  to  the  west  end  of  the  building.  This  corridor  con- 
tains the  following  pictures:  1.  Reuben  E.  Fenton,  Governor  of  New 
York,  1865-69,  by  William  Page;  2.  Hamilton  Fish,  Governor  of  New 
York.  1849-50,  by  Thomas  Hicks;  3.  Alexander  Macomb,  Commander  in 
Chief  of  the  U.  S.  Army,  1828-41,  by  Samuel  L.  Waldo;  John  A.  Kine, 
Governor  of  New  York,  1869-72,  by  Jacob  H.  Laserus;  6.  Myron  H. 
Clark,  Governor  of  New  York,  1855-56,  by  Francis  Bicknell  Carpenter- 
2-  Edwin  D.  Morgan,  Governor  of  New  York,  1859-62,  by  Daniel  Hunt- 
ington. 


CITY  HALL  PARK  AND  VICINITY  143 

On  the  north  side  of  this  corridor  a  door  opens  into  the  old  Council 
Chamber  which  contains  the  following  interesting  portraits:  John  A. 
Dix,  .Governor  of  New  York,  1873-75,  by  Anna  Sleritt  inee  Lea); 
(Dix  is  best  remembered  for  the  oft-quoted  remark,  "If  any  one  at- 
tempts to  haul  down  the  American  fla^,  shoot  him  on  the  spot"); 
Thomas  Jefferson,  by  Charles  W.  Jarvts;  Andrew  Jackson,  by  John 
yanderlyn.  The  Aldermanic  Chamber  occupies  the  Eastern  end  of 
the  same  floor,  and  is  open  to  the  public  unless  the  Board  of  Alder- 
men are  in  session.  On  the  ceiling  is  a  mural  painting,  New  York 
City  receiving  the  Tributes  of  the  Nations,  by  TaSer  Sears,  IVashing- 
ton  Breck  and  Frederick  C.  Martin,  painted  for  the  city  in  1903.  It  is 
an  elliptical  panel,  41  ft.  by  nearly  24,  and  in  it  New  York,  the  eastern 
gateway  of  the  American  continent,  is  symbolized  by  the  central  figure 
who  sits  enthroned,  while  a  group,  of  others  lay  their  offerings  before 
her.  On^  the  walls  hang  the  following  portraits :  Henry  Clay,  by  Charles 
W.  Jarvis;  George  Washington,  copied  by  M .  Af.  Swett  from  a  Stuart 
in  Faneuil  Hall;  Christopher  Columbus,  copied  by  Prof.  Samuel  F.  B. 
Morse  from  a  very  old  original;  David  Thomas  Valentine,  Clerk  of 
the  Common  Council  1857-69,  by  C  W.  Jarvis;  George  Washington,  a 
portrait  woven  in  silk  at  looms  in  Lyons,  France,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000. 
In  the  northeast  corner  is  a  recently  erected  tablet  commemorating  the 
asoth  anniversary  of  the  establishment  of  a  Municipal  Government 
under  a  Mayor  and  Board  of  Aldermen  of  the  City  of  New  York  as 
successors  in  office  of  the  Burgomasters  and  Schepens  of  New  Amsterdam. 

At  the  southeast  corner  of  the  Aldermanic  Chamber  a  door  opens 
into  the  Committee  Room.  Here,  on  the  west  wall,  hangs  a  portrait  of 
George  B.  McClellan,  Major  General  commanding  the  Army  of  the 
Potomac,  1861-62,  by  William  H.  Powell.  Opposite,  on  the  east  wall, 
William  Bainbridge.  Commander  of  the  Constttution.  Dec.  29,  18x2,  by 
John  IV.  Jarvis.  North  wall,  Robert  Anderson,  Commander  of  Fort 
Sumpter,  April  12-13,  1861;  by  W.  H.  Powell;  Joseph  Gardner  Swift, 
U.  S.  Surveyor,  Port  of  New  York,  1818-27;  by  J.  W.  Jarvis. 

On  the  ground  floor  in  the  southwest  corner  is  the  Mayor's  Recep- 
tion Room.  It  contains  the  following  portraits  (with  but  one  exception, 
former  Mayors  of  New  York):  North  wall:  Robert  Hunter  Morris, 
Mayor  1841-44,  by  Frederick  R.'  Spenser;  Andrew  Hunter  Mickle, 
Mayor  1846-47,  by  Edward  Mooney;  West  wall:  Marquis  de  La  Fayette, 
by  Samuel  F.  B.  Morse;  South  wall:  Cornelius  Van  Wyck  Lawrence, 
Mayor  1834-37,  by  Henry  Inman;  Aaron  Clark,  Mayor  1837-39,  by 
Henry  Inman;  East  wall:  Philip  Hone,  Mayor  1825-26,  by  John 
Vanderlyn;  William  Paulding,  Mayor  1823-25,  1826-29,  by  Samuel  F. 
B.  Morse. 

In  the  basement  corridor  is  a  marble  tablet  commemorative  of  the 
architect  and  sculptor  of  the  building.  The  Dutch  and  Federal  standard 
yard  measure  is  on  the  opposite  wall.  Beneath  the  Mayor's  window  on 
the  outside  wall  is  a  tablet  memorializing  the  reacing  of  the  Declara- 
tion of  Independence  to  the  army  in  Washington's  presence,  July  p, 
1776  on  this  spot.  Sunk  in  the  pavement  in  the  front  of  the  mam 
entrance  is  a  tahlet  marking  the  first  excavation  for  the  subway  by  Hon. 
Robert  A.  Van  Wyck,  1900. 

On  the  upper  floor  (reached  by  a  circular  stair-case  in 
the  N.  W.  corner),  are  the  offices  of  the  City  Art  Commission. 
The  main  committee  room  and  that  in  which  the  records  are 
kept  are  on  the  southern  side,  above  the  main  entrance,  and 
contain  some  interesting  old  furniture.  They  are  not  open 
to  the  public,  but  anyone  displaying  interest  in  municipal  art 
works  will  be  courteously  received.  In  an  enclosed  gallery 
surrounding  the  base  of  the  dome  hangs  an  interesting  col- 


144  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

lection  of  designs  submitted  in  competition  for  sculptures, 
fountains,  bridges  and  other  public  works  of  art  since  the 
creation  of  the  Commission;  and  the  visitor  may  cohipare 
for  himself  the  successful  and  unsuccessful  competitors. 

The  Art  Commission  consists  of  ten  members,  four  of  them 
ex-officio:  The  Mayor  of  New  York;  the  President  of  the  Metro- 
politan Museum  of  Art;  the  president  of  the  New  York  Public  Library; 
and  the  president  of  the  Brooklyn  Institute  of  Arts  and  Sciences. 
The  other  members,  appointed  by  the  Mayor,  must  include  at  least 
one  architect,  one  painter  and  one  sculptor. 

To  the  N.  of  the  City  Hall  is  the  County  Court  House,  (on  the  site 
of  the  old  American  Institute,  in  the  upper  story  of  which  was  Scud- 
der's  Museum,)  a  building  of  white  marble  with  Corinthian  columns,  its 
principal  entrance  on  Chambers  st.  It  contains  the  State  Courts  and 
several   municipal   offices.     The   building,   erected   by   the   Tweed   Ring 


(p.  xxiv.),  cost  $12,000,000,  a  large  part  of  which_went  into_the  pockets 
)i  the  ga 
is  the  City  Court,  a  brown  stone  building  erected   1852. 


of  the  gang.    A  million  was  spent  on  furniture.     £.  of  the  Court  House 


The  new  *Hall  of  Records,  N.  E.  of  the  Court  House,  and 
extending  from  Chambers  along  Centre  to  Reade  St.,  is  an 
imposing  granite  structure  in  the  French  renaissance  style, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $7,836,146  (opened  1911;  designed  by  the 
late  John  R.  Thomas;  and  completed  by  Arthur  J.  Morgan  and 
Vincent  J,  S lattery).  The  exterior  is  richly  adorned  with 
sculptures.  The  granite  employed  for  the  building,  inclusive 
of  the  statuary,  is  from  Hallowell,  Maine. 

Here  are  recorded  the  various  public  records  and  legal  documents 
for  which  provision  is  made  by  law,  including:  Conveyances  and  Mort- 
gages of  real  estate;  Chattel  Mortgages;  Wills,  etc.  The  building 
also  contains  the  offices  and  Court  rooms  of  the  Surrogate's  Court. 

Chambers  street  facade:  Above  the  chief  cornice  are  eight  granite 
statues,  heroic  size,  by  Philip  Martigny,  The  subjects  are  all  prominent 
in  local  history,  (and  in  spite  of  their  height  from  the  grouna,  ma^  be 
readily  distinguished  by  certain  simple  details).  From  left  to  right: 
I.  David  Pietersen  de  Vries,  Pontoon  of  a  colony  on  Staten  Island, 
about  1640,  (holds  hat  and  gloves  in  his  hands);  2.  Caleb  Heathcote, 
Mayor  ox  New  York,  1711-14,  (in  clerical  garb);  %,  De  Witt  Clinton, 
Governor  of  New  York,  1817-23,  (heavy  overcoat  hanging  from  dioul- 
der);  4.  Abram  S.  Hewitt,  Mayor  of  New  York,  1887-88.  (iFeet  apart, 
left  hand  holds  roll);  5.  Philip  Hone,  Mayor  of  New  York,  1825-46, 
(pen  in  rieht  hand,  scroll  in  left);  6.  Peter  Stuyvesant,  Director 
General  of  New  Netherlands,  (wooden  leg);  7.  Cadwallader  D.  Colden, 
Mayor,  181 8-21,  (colonial  dress);  8.  James  Duane,  Mayor  of  New 
York,  1784-89,  (right  hand  on  hip,  cane  in  left). 

Sculptures  grouped  about  large  central  window  in  attic  roof,  by 
Henry  Kirke  Bush-Brown:  Above,  Infancy  and  Childhood:  below 
them,  four  Caryatids  symbolizing  (from  left  to  right)  Sprina,  Summer, 
Autumn,  Winter.  Below:  Philosophy  (an  aged  man,  half  reclining, 
gazes  at  a  skull);  Poetry,  (a  young  man,  half  reclinins,  holds  a 
medallion  of  Dante) ;  Maternity,  (a  seated  female  figure,  holding  an 
infant);  Heritage,  (a  man  seated,  holding  a  child). 

Centre  Street  Facade:  On  left  and  right  of  entrance,  two  symbolic 
fibres,  by  Philip  Martigny:  i.  Justice,  with  roll  in  right  hand,  and 
with  left  on  shield  at  her  side;  2.  Authority,  with  roll  in  left  hand 
and  with  right  resting  on  fasces  at  her  side. 

Reade  Street  Facade:  Four  sculptures,  by  Henry  K.  Bush-Brown; 
Above    (left).    Study;     (right).    Instruction;    below    (left).    History; 


CITY  HALL  PARK  AND  VICINITY  145 

(riffht),  Law.  On. chief  cornice:  Eight  granite  statues,  heroic  size,  br 
PhUip  Martigny:  From  left  to  right,  i.  Justice,  female  figure,  with 
sword  and  scales;  2.  Electricity,  temale  fi^re  with  palm  branch  and 
spindle-like  object;  3.  Printing,  a  man  with  a  printing  press  behind 
him;  4.  Force,  a  nude  male  nffure,  holding  a  club;  5.  Tradition,  an 
old  man  with  a  crook  and  ^roll;  6.  The  D'on  Age,  a  young  man,  with 
ropes  and  pincers;  7.  Painting,  female  figure  holding  a  mirror, 
brushes  and  palette;  8.  Sculpture,  a  female  figure  holding  mallet  and 
chisels,  with  her  right  hand  on  torso  of  a  man. 

West  Elevation:  Statues  above  the  large  Central  Window,  in  attic 
roof,  by  Henrv  Kirke  Bush-Brown:  i.  Industry,  a  young  man  with  left 
hand   on  anvil;   2.   Commerce,  a  seated   female  figure   holding  rudder. 

The  beauty  of  the  interior  well  repays  the  lavish  expenditure  it 
entailed.  The  three  vestibules  and  the  large  central  and  stately  stair- 
case (copied  after  the  foyer  of  the  Grand  Opera  House  at  Pans)  are 
finished  in  Sienna  marble,  of  a  warm  and  delicate  yellow  tone.  In  the 
Chambers  St.  vestibule  are  two  sculptured  groups  of  white  marble, 
bv  Albert  Weinert:  i.  (on  left),  The  Consolidation  of  Greater  New 
York,  1899^  in  the  centre  is  a  youth,  on  his  left  a  seated  female 
figure  handing  him  a  key,  on  his  right  another  female  figure  with  an 
open  scroll  in  her  lap,  and  her  left  arm  resting  on  the  City  Hall  in 
low  relief;  2.  (on  right),  Recording  the  Purchase  of  Manhattan  Island; 
in  the  centre  a  youth  is  holding  out  a  bag  of  gold  to  a  female  fi^re 
seated  on  his  right,  who  holds  tablet  and  stylus^;  on  his  left  is  a 
seated  Indian. 

Above  and  behind  these  groups  are  two  elliptical  lunettes  in  glass 
mosaic,  by  William  De  Lefttuich  Dodge;  i.  (left)  Searching  the  Records; 
a.  (rignt)  Widows  and  Orphans  Pleading  Before  the  Judge  of  the  Sur- 
rogate's Court.  The  vaulted  ceiling  is  also  richly  decorated  in  glass 
mosaic,  red,  green  and  blue  on  gold  background,  representing  the 
Signs  of  the  l^odiac,  also  designed  by  Dodge,  The  vaulting  allowed 
space  for  only  eight  of  the  twelve  ap^s:  they  are  labeled  with  their 
Cireek  names  and  run  in  the  following  order:  North  side,  right  to 
left.  I.  Didymoi  (Gemini);  2.  Leon  G^eo)}  Toxeutes  (Sagittarius); 
4.  Aigokeros  (Capricornus) ;  5.  Parthenos  (V*rgo);  south  side,  6.  Knot 
(Aries 'i ;  7.  Hydrochoos  (Aquarius);  8.  Tauros  (Taurus).  At  the  four 
corners  are  four  Greek  deities  appropriate  to  the  functions  of  Recorder 
and  Surrogate:  i.  Themis  (Justice);  2.  Erinys  (Retribution);  3.  Pen- 
thos  (Sop'otu);  ^.  Ponos  (Labor). 

A  similar  richness  in  material  and  finish  has  been  consistently 
carried  out'  throughout  the  entire  building.  But  the  two  show  rooms— 
which  the  visitor  should  not  miss — are  the  North  and  South  Court 
Rooms  of  the  Surrogate's  Court,  on  the  sth  floor.  The  North  Court 
Room  (No.  509)  is  gorgeously  finished  in  English  oak;  along  the  north 
and  south  walls  are  huge  panels  in  relief,  presenting  allegories  of 
Wisdom,  Truth,  Civilization  and  Degradation.  On  east  and  west  sides 
are  handsome  bronze-trimmed  mantel-pieces  of  light  green  Easton 
marble.     Note  the  beautiful  French  renaissance  chandeliers  of  cut  fi[lass. 

On  the  south  wall,  sunk  in  to  give  the  effect  of  mural  paintings, 
are  three  portraits  of  former  Surrogates.  In  the  middle  is  Surrogate 
Thomas,  by  C.  Seymour  Thomas;  on  either  side,  Surrogate  Rollins 
and  Surro^te  Fitzgerald,  both  by  John   W.  Alexander, 

The  South  Court  Room  is  somewhat  sombre,  being  finished  in 
Santo  Domingo  mahogany,  with  mantle^pieces  of  dark  red  Numidian 
marble.  Both  court  rooms  are  overlooked  by  spectators'  galleries, 
reached  from  a  mezzanine  floor. 

The  Register  will  allow  visitors  to  inspect  the  old  city  records 
and  maps. 

W.  of  the  Hall  of  Records,  on  Broadway,  extending 
from  Chambers  to  Reade  St.  is  the  Stewart  Building,  being 


146  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  original  dry  goods  store  of  A.  T.  Stewart,  pioneer  in  the 
department  store  business. 

The  building  dates  from  1846,  but  was  later  extensively  re- 
modeled and,  until  the  completion  of  the  new  Municipal  Building, 
contained   many   of   the   important   city   offices. 

Facing  the  Hall  of  Records,  on  the  east  side  of  Centre 
Street,  stands  the  **Municipal  Building,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
about  $12,000,000.  (McKim,  Mead  and  White,  Archs.)  The 
building  is  unique  in  shape  and  design,  the  ground  plan  being 
a  broad  and  flattened  letter  U,  with  the  concave  facing  the 
City  Hall,  and  its  walls  so  constructed  that  all  its  windows 
are  outside.  The  extreme  dimensions  of  site  are  450  by  300 
feet.  Its  forty  stories,  exclusive  of  the  statue  surmount- 
ing the  tower,  rise  to  a  height  of  564  feet.  Its  purpose  was 
to  provide  offices  for  a  number  of  city  departments,  thus 
saving  over  half  a  million  dollars  in  annual  rent.  Some 
idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  structure  may  be  gained  from 
the  following  figures:  Five  million  pieces  of  steel  were  used 
in  its  construction,  also  705,000  cubic  feet  of  granite;  its 
total  floor  area  is  648,000  sq.  ft.,  and  its  estimated  weight  is 
377,320,000  lbs. 

The  sculpture  decorations  on  the  front  and  end  facades 
are  by  Adolph  Alexander  Weinman,  and  with  the  exception 
of  Civic  Fame,  are  all  bas-reliefs  in  North  Carolina  granite. 
A  massive  colonnade  borne  on  Corinthian  columns  extends 
along  the  west  faqade,  like  a  string  to  a  bow.  It  is  broken 
by  a  main  central  arch  and  two  smaller  arches  on  right  and 
left  adorned  with  the  following  carvings: 

In  left  spandril  of  central  arch:  Guidance,  supporting  a  rudder 
and  a  tablet  of  the  Law;  right  spandril:  Executive  Power,  holding 
Fasces.  Over  north  small  arch,  Progress,  holding  a  torch  and  winged 
ball;  above  south  arch,  Prudence,  holding  a  mirror  and  a  serpent, 
symbols  of  reflection  and  wisdom.  Directly  below  these  medallions  are 
two  long  panels:  On  left.  Civic  Duty  shows  to  a  group  of  people  a 
scroll,  symbolic  of  the  law;  on  right,  Civic  Pride  receives  tribute  from 
the  people. 

Impaneled  between  the  windows  on  the  second  floor  are  a  series 
of  twelve  symbolic  figures  representing  the  various  city  departments. 
The  series  begins  at  the  middle  and  repeats  to  north  and  south,  making 
in  all  twelve  panels:  (i)  Board  of  Estimate  and  Apportionment;  (2) 
Civil  Service;  (3)  Building  Inspection;  (4)  Board  of  Elections;  (5) 
Water  Supply;  (6)  Correction;  (7)  Accounts;  (8)  Records;  (9)  Licenses; 
(10)   Comptroller;   (11)    Sheriff;    (12)   Public  Service. 

Crowning  the  whole  structure  is  a  heroic  figure  of  Civic  Fame,  in 
copper,  twenty  feet  high,  and  poised  on  a  huge  copper  ball.  In  her 
left  hand  she  holds  a  mural  crown  composed  of  five  parapets,  symbols 
of  the  five  Boroughs,  and  surrounded  by  a  band  of  aolphins,  symbolic 
of  a  seaport  town.  Her  right  arm  holds  a  shield  bearing  the  arms  of 
the  city. 

A   wide  vaulted   passage   allows    for   tfie   continuation   of 
Chambers  St.  through  the  building,  while  in  the  basement  is  a 


NORtHEAST  OF  CITY  HALL  PARK  147 

spacious  station  in  which  subway  systems  of  Brooklyn  and 
Manhattan  converge. 

At  the  corner  of  New  Chambers  and  Duane  Sts.,  E.  of 
Park  Row  is  the  Newsboys^  Lodging  House  (PI.  II — Ci), 
founded  by  J.  Loring  Bruce  in  1853,  now  in  charge  of  the 
Children's  Aid  Society   (United  Charities  building,  p.  215). 

N.  of  the  Municipal  Building,  at  Duane  St.  and  City  Hall 
PI,  stands  the  little  red  brick  R.  C.  Church  of  St.  Andrews. 
Mass  is  said  regularly  at  2  a.m.  for  the  benefit  of  printers  and 
other  night  workers.  The  rector  is  the  Catholic  Chaplain 
for  the  City  prison. 

To  the  S.  W.  of  the  City  Hall,  facing  Broadway,  is  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Nathan  Hale  (1755-76),  by  MacMonnies  (1839^^,  erected  by 
the  Society  of  the  Sons  of  the  Revolution.  To  the  S.  E.  of  the  City 
Hall,  near  Park  Row  is  a  fountain  erected  about  1873,  replacing  a 
near-by  fountain  which  marked  the  opening  of  the  Croton  Aqueduct 
in  184a.  E.  of  the  City  Hall,  on  a  granite  monument,  is  a  Tablet, 
placed  by  the  Mary  Washington  Colonial  Chapter  of  the  Daughters 
of  the  American  Revolution,  marking  the  site  of  the  old  Register's 
Office,  built  as  a  debtor's  prison  in  1758  becoming  a  military  prison 
during  the  British  occupation. 

VI.    The  Section  North  and  East  of  City  Hall  Park 

At  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Reade  and  Center  Sts.  is  the 
Manhattan  Water  Tank,  now  hidden  from  view  by  three  story 
office  buildings,  but  visible  through  the  rear  windows  of 
these  buildings.  It  was  built  in  1799  hy  the  Manhattan 
Water  Co.,  of  which  Aaron  Burr  was  president.  The  preser- 
vation of  the  tank  full  of  water  is  one  of  the  conditions  of 
the  Charter  of  the  Manhattan  Bank.  Specimens  of  the  old 
wooden  pipes,  made  by  boring  logs,  may  be  seen  in  the  Man- 
hattan Bank,  40  Wall  St.,  (p.  127)  and  in  the  New  York 
Historical  Society  building  (p.  244). 

The  approved  design  of  the  new  Court  House  for  New  York  County, 
to  occupy  four  city  blocks  at  Center  and  Worth  sts.,  is  an  adaptation  ot 
the  Coliseum  at  Rome  for  modern  uses.  The  architect,  Guy  Lowell,  a 
cousin  of  the  President  of  Harvard,  designed  a  structure  with  a  diame- 
ter of  500  ft.  and  about  200  ft.  high.  At  the  four  entrances,  one  from 
each  point  of  the  compass,  porticos  with  massive  Corinthian  columns  are 
provided  for.  and  80  Doric  columns  surround  the  structure  above.  The 
design  calls  tor  a  structure  of  8  stories  above  ground  and  2  below.  The 
new  B.  R.  T.  subAvay  under  Centre  st.  will  run  beneath  the  building 
with  a  subway  station  in  the  basement,  and  elevators  running  directly 
from  the  station  platform  to  all  the  court  rooms.  The  diameter  of  the 
central  lobby  is  to  be  112  ft.  and  above  the  glass  dome  that  will'  be 
its  cover  there  is  to  be  an  open  circular  space,  admitting  light  and  air. 
The  ground  floor  is  to  be  used  for  the  public  waiting  room  and  offices; 
the  second  for  the  City  Court;  and  the  next  four  stories  for  courtrooms 
for  the  Supreme  Court.    There  are  to  be  no  less  than  51  court  rooms. 

In  the  block  betw.  Centre,  Leonard,  Lafayette,  and  Frank- 
lin sts.,  is  the  Tombs,  the  city  prison,  shown  by  permit  from 
the  Department  of  Correction,  124  Leonard  st. 


148  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  original  granite  building  built  in  1838  of  stone  brought  from  the 
Bridewell  (or  common  jail,  erected  in  1775  and  used  as  a  prison  by  the 
British)  in  City  Hall  Square,  in  ancient  Egyptian  style,  was  taken  down 
and   a  new   structure  erected   in    1898.     This   building  is  already   anti- 


quated according  to  the  new  standards  of  prison  architecture.  A  bridge 
known  as  the  "Bridge  of  Sighs"  connects  the  prison  with  the  Criminal 
Courts,  a  large  building  in  the  N.     Good  mural  paintings  by  E.  S,  Sim- 


mons are  placed  in  the  room  of  the  Supreme  Court,  in  the  northeast 
corner  on  the  first  floor.  The  theme  of  the  central  painting  is  "Amer- 
ica Offering  Justice  to  the  World."  The  faces  in  it  are  said  to  be 
those  of  tne  artist's  wife  and  children.  On  the  right  panel  are 
the  Three  Fates  spinning,  weaving  and  cutting  off  the  thread  of  life; 
on  the  left  are  three  male  figures  representing  "Brotherhood  Uniting 
Science  to  Freedom."  These  murals  were  made  under  the  direction  01 
the  Municipal  Art  Commission  in  1895. 

Nearby  at  240  Centre  St.  is  the  main  entrance  to  the  new 
Police  Headquarters.      (Description  of  dept.  p.  xxvi.) 

The  New  York  Police  Headquarters,  a  granite  structure 
in  the  Georgian  style  of  architecture,  with  marble  trim  and 
ornamental  iron,  stands  on  a  flatiron  shaped  lot  bounded  by 
Broome,  Grand  and  Centre  Streets  and  Centre  Market  Place 
(H.  G.  Thompson,  arch.).  On  the  first  floor  are  the  Night 
Captain's  room,  the  Museum,  the  Criminal  Record  Room,  the 
Rogues*  Gallery,  and  the  main  Assembly  Room  of  the  Detec- 
tive Bureau,  where  the  daily  line-up  of  criminals  takes  place. 
On  the  second  floor  are  the  various  clerical  departments  and 
the  Commissioner's  private  offices.  The  third  floor  contains 
the  Bureau  of  Complaints,  the  library,  the  Bureau  of  Pen- 
sions, and  the  Trial  Room. 

Back  of  the  Judge's  desk  is  a  panel  containing  a  lar^e  mural 
painting  depicting  a  rural  scene  in  New  Amsterdam  at  practically  the 
very  spot  wherp  the  Police  Headquarters  now  stands. 

The  section  bounded  by  Lafayette,  White,  Mulberry, 
and  Leonard  Sts.  was  once  a  fresh  water  pond,  60  ft.  deep 
named  Collect  Pond,  popular  with  fishermen.  It  was  filled 
in  about  1821,  the  water  being  drained  off  by  a  cut  made 
to  the  North  River  through  a  canal  which  later  becarne 
Canal  St.  A  sewer  no.w  drains  the  original  springs  still 
living  in  the  middle  of  the  island. 

To  the  E.  of  this  group  of  city  buildings  lie  an  Italian 
section  about  Mulberry  Park,  Chinatown,  the  once-famous 
Bowery,  and  the  crowded  Lower  East  Side,  inhabited  chiefly 
by  Jewish  immigrants;  each  neighborhood  is  distinct  in  its 
characteristics. 

Somewhat  to  the  N.  lies  Mulberry  Park,  now  called 
Columbus  Park,  an  open. space  of  2.75  a.  in  the  heart  of  the 
Italian  district,  at  what  was  formerly  Mulberry  Bend. 

The  opening  of  this  park,  due  to  the  tireless  efforts  of  Jacob  Riis, 
has  changed  the  neighborhood  from  a  disreputable,  tumble-down  dis- 
trict to  a  respectable,  though  over-crowded,  Italian  quarter.  The 
sidewalk   markets  with  their  delicious  and   low-priced   green  vegetables 


NORTHEAST  OF  CITY  HALL  PARK  149 

and  salads,  the  Italian  women  shopping,  and  the  children  playing  about, 
give  an  Italian  atmosphere  to  the  quarter. 

The  open  space  at  the  S.W.  of  the  park,  called  Paradise  Park  or 
Five  Points  (from  the  intersection  of  North,  Baxter,  and  Park  sts.). 
was  reputed  the  most  dangerous  spot  in  New  York.  Fourteen  negroes 
were  burned  here  during  the  negro  insurrection  in  1740. 

Chinatown  centers  in  Mott,  Pell,  and  Doyers  sts.,  to 
the  W.  of  Chatham  sq.  (2nci  ave.  elevated  to  Chatham 
sq.).  The  sight-seeing  automobiles  offer  an  evening  trip  in 
which  the  visitor  can  enjoy  the  picturesqueness  of  the  neigh- 
borhood and  visit  joss  houses  and  shops,  without  fear  of 
annoyance.  (Restaurants,  p.  24).  A  daytime  shopping  trip 
is  a  simple  matter  to  anyone. 

The  theatre  is  now  closed.  A  josshouse  at  16  Mott  st.  (adm.  10.)  is 
ornate  with  gold  leaf,  carved  ebony  and  painting.  Chinatown  has 
gained  its  reputation  for  lawlessness  partly  from  the  constant  quarreling 
between  rival  Chinese  societies,  "tongs'*  and  even  more  from  the 
criminal  element  of  white  people  who  make  this  their  headquarters.  The 
visitor  will  see  nothing  of  the  real  opium  dens  unless  he  can  arrange 
to  accompany  a  police  official. 

The  Bowery  runs  from  Chatham  Square  N.  E.  to  E., 
3d  and  4th  aves.,  just  below  Astor  Place.  Chatham  Square 
is  mentioned  as  being  fenced  off  for  a  cattle  field  in  1647. 
It  takes  its  name  from  William  Pitt,  Earl  of  Chatham. 

The  name  of  this  famous  street  is  a  corruption  of  the.  old 
Dutch  word  "bouwerie,"  meaning  "farm,"  the  street  having  been 
originally  the  road  which  led  to  the  farms  outside  the  city.  A 
few  other  Dutch  words  linger  in  this  vicinity;  the  Jewish  and 
Italian  immigrants  learn  to  speak  of  the  apartments  on  the  ground 
floor  of  a  tenement  as  "on  the  stoop/*  and  the  children  in  the  park 
playgrounds  refer  to  the  swings  as  "scups/'  and  call  swinging  in  tnem 
scupping."  The  Bowery  was  at  one  time  the  fashionable  theatre 
street,  and  within  comparatively  recent  years  has  enjoyed  a^  reputation 
for  the  lawlessness  attendant  upon  gambling  dens  and  sporting  houses. 
That  is  now  a  condition  of  the  past.  The  street  became  a  dingy  thorough- 
fare of  dirty  saloons,  small  shops  and  vulgar  theatres,  offering  little 
danger  and  no  excitement.  The  erection  of  the  elevated  in  1878  put 
an  end  to  the  wild  night  life  of  the  street.  It  is  now  becoming  a 
modern  mercantile  thoroughfare. 

There  is  a  tradition  that  Charlotte  Temple,  the  heroine  of  the 
romantic  story  by  that  name,  who  is  popularly  identified  with  the 
grave  in  Trinity  Church-yard,  died  in  a  house  at  the  corner  of  Chatham 
Square  .and    Pell    St. 

On  the  £.  side  of  Chatham  Square  formerly  stood  the  old 
Chatham  Theatre  (demolished  in  1862).  A  portion  of  it,  with  the 
original  fagade,  still  remains  and  forms  a  'part  of  Cowperthwait's 
Furniture  Store.  It  was  here  that  "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin**  was  first 
performed  in   185a. 

South  on  New  Bowery,  cor.  of  Oliver  St.,  is  the  quaint 
old  Jews*  Burial  Ground,  the  oldest  Jewish  cemetery  in  the 
city;  it  was  granted  in  1656  and  deeded  to  the  Jews  in  1729. 
The  commemorative  tablet  was  given  in  igo2  by  the  late 
Isidor  Straus.  To  the  S.  E.  along  Madison  St.  and  adjacent 
cross-streets    is   the   Greek   quarter.     The    signs    are   all  /in 


150  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Modern  Greek,  and  shops  abound  in  which  Greek  wines  and 

cordials,  ripe  olives,  oil,  tobacco  and  other  eastern  imports 

may  be  procured. 

This  neighborhood  was  once  the  Rutgers  Farm,  the  memory  of 
which  is  preserved  in  the  street  names:  Rutgers  St.,  James  and  Oliver 
Sts.,  named  from  members  of  the  family,  and  Division  St.  which 
marks  the  dividing  line  between  the  Rutgers  and  the  Delancey  Farms. 

Around  the  cor.,  at  Oliver  and  Henry  Sts.,  is  the 
Mariners*'  Temple  built  in  1843  on  the  site  of  the  old  Oliver 
Street  Baptist  Church  originally  erected  in  1795  and  rebuilt 
in  1800  and  1812.  At  present  services  are  conducted  in 
English,  German,  Italian  and  Greek.  Across  the  street  is 
Public  School  No.  i,  successors  to  the  first  Free  School  of 
New  York;  and  two  blocks  east  at  Rutgers  St.  is  Public 
School  No.  2.  A  tablet  erected  in  191 1  commemorates  the 
centennial  of  its  founding,  on  land  given  by  Col.  Henry 
Rutgers.  Midway  between  them,  S.  W.  cor.  of  Market  St., 
stands  the  Church  of  the  Land  and  Sea,  erected  in  1817; 
there  is  a  commemorative  tablet. 

A  detour  may  be  made  from  Chatham  Square  through 
the  crowded  section  E.  of  the  Bowery  and  often  referred 
to  as  the  "Ghetto."  Its  swarming  population  is  made  up 
chiefly  of  Russian,  Polish  and  Hungarian  Jews.  Go  N.  E; 
along  Division  St,  the  centre  of  the  East  Side  cloak  and 
garment  makers.  Many  of  the  shops  here  have  the  same 
names  that  are  found  on  the  uptown  branch  stores  on  lower 
6th  Ave.  Salesmen  (and  saleswomen  too)  stand  in  wait 
at  the  doors  and  attempt  to  stop  passers-by  and  draw  them 
in.  Follow  Division  St.  eight  blocks  to  Allen  St.,  the  centre 
of  the  copper  and  brass  antique  shops. 

To  the  Russian  immigrant  his  family  copper,  often  inherited 
through  generations,  is  as  proud  a  possession  as  the  family  silver  in 
American  households.  But  the  struggle  for  existence  in  a  new 
country  results  in  the  passage  of  a  large  part  of  these  rare  old 
utensils  into  the  hands  of  second-hand  dealers.  Many  bargains  may 
be  picked  up  in  these  shops  by  the  collector  who  has  a  moderate 
I  knowledge  of  the  hallmarks  of  a  genuine  antique.  Naturally,  the 
different  dealers  vary  firreatly  in  their  degree  of  scrupulousness.  JojB^e, 
at  No.   6,  is  as  reliable  as  any. 

Three  blocks  E.  on  Canal  St.  bring  us  to  the  JVm.  H. 
Seward  Park  and  open-air  playground  (3.3  acres).  Facing 
the  park  on  the  S.  is  the  Educational  Alliance  (incorp. 
1889),  a  Jewish  institution  primarily  intended  for  the  educa- 
tion of  the  immigrant  Jew. 

The  educational  division  includes  lectures  in  English  and  Yiddish 
on  American  history  and  civics;  naturalization  classes;  a  domestic  art 
school;  a  domestic  science  school;  and  manual  training.  The  social 
division  includes  auditorium  entertainments ;  boys'  and  girls*  clubs; 
summer  camps;  and  various  inter-settlement  activities.  There  are  be- 
siaes  religious  and  social  service  divisions. 


NORTHEAST  OF  CITY  HALL  PARK  151 

Returning  on  Canal  St.  to  the  Bowery,  we  see,  half  a 
block  S.  facing  the  approach  to  the  Manhattan  Bridge  (p. 
Ill),  the  Thalia  Theatre,  formerly  the  Bowery  Theatre,  the 
fifth  playhouse  of  that  name  Erected  on  the  same  site. 

The  original  Old  Bowery  Theatre  was  erected  in  1826  on  the  site 
of  the  Bull's  Head  Tavern  (1760),  at  which  Washington  stopped  to 
rest  on  entering  the  city  in  1783.  This  is  the  theatre  in  which  Charlotte 
Cushman  played  to  fashionable  audiences.  It  was  the  first  in  the  city 
that  was  lighted  with  gas.  .The  present  structure,  renamed  Thalia  The- 
atre in  1879,  was  for  a  number  of  years  a  Yiddish  playhouse,  with 
Bertha  Kalish  (who  now  plays  in  English)  for  leading  woman,  sup- 
ported by  Kessler,  who  now  has  a  theatre  of  his  own  on  2d  avenue.  For 
the  last  year,  the  Thalia  has  been  an  Italian   playhouse. 

One  block  N.,  opposite  Rivingston  St.,  stands  the  First  Mile  Stone, 
the  distance  being  measured  from  City  Hall.  When  these  mile 
stones  were  first  set  the  City  Hall  was  in  Wall  St.  Consequently, 
when  the  present  City  Hall  was  completed  in  181 2,  the  stones  were 
removed  to  their  present  positions  in  order  to  conform  to  the  new 
starting-point. 

Rivington  St.  and  its  immediate  neighborhood  are  said  to  constitute 
the  most  crowded  spot  in  the  world.  There  are  numerous  social 
settlements  in^this  vicinity,  the  best  known  being  the  Nurses'  Settle- 
ment, 265  Henry  St.,  the  Jacob  Riis  N eighhorhood  Settlement.  48 
Henry  St.,  the  University  Settlement,  Rivington  and  Eldndge  Sis., 
and  the  College  Settlement,  95  Rivingston  St.,  each  with  its  individual 
lines  of  work.     Visitors  welcome. 

Canal  St.  preserves  the  memory  of  the  canal  which  once  ran 
through  the  middle  of  it  to  the  North  River,  and  drained  the  waters 
of  the  Collect  or  Fresh  Water  Pond  at  Mulberry  and  Leonard  S*^s. 
Bayard  and  Hester  Sts,,  just  S.  and  N.  of  Canal,  are  reminders  of  the 
Bayard  farm  stretching  along  the  W.  side  of  the  Bowery  as  far  as 
Bleecker  St.,  and  belonging  to  a  nephew  of  Peter  Stuyvesant;  the 
second  of  these  streets  was  named  after  Hester  Bayard. 

Delancey  St.,  recently  widened  and  parked,  to  form  an  approaeh 
to  the  Williamsburg  Bridge,  was  originally  a  lane  that  led  to  the  house 
of  James  Delancey,  Chief  Justice,  i733-  Mills  Hotel  No.  2,  cor.  of 
Chrystie  St.,  approximated  marks  the  site  of  the  house.  West  of  the 
Bowery  is  Kenmare  St.,  so  named  in  honor  of  the  East  Side  politician, 
Timothy  D.  Sullivan,  whose  birth-place  was  Kenmare,  Ireland. 

The  Bowery  Mission,  at  227  Bowery,  reached  by  the  3rd  ave. 
elevated  to  Stanton  street  station,  maintains  a  midnight  service  and 
a  distribution  of  free  bread  and  coflFee  at  one  o'clock  at  night.  "The 
Bread   Line"  exhibits  in  a  mass  the   city's  most  wretched   inhabitants. 

VII.     From  Canal  to  Fourteenth  Street  East  of 

Broadway 

The  Downtown  section  from  Canal  to  14th  st.  contains,  in 
its  lower  part,  little  of  interest  to  the  visitor.  On  the  E.  is 
the  Jewish  quarter  (p.  150)  ;  in  the  center  an  Italian  neighbor- 
hood (p.  149)  ;  and  W.  of  Broadway  a  hodge-podge  of  small 
factories,  shops,  warehouses,  and  the  shabby  homes  of  people 
of  many  nationalities.  The  few  interesting  buildings  are  up 
toward  14th  st.  clustered  about  Astor  Place,  extending  to 
2nd  ave.  on"  the  E.,  and  Washington  Square  on  the  W. 


152  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY     . 

Continuing  up  the  Bowery,  go  W.  on  Prince  St.,  to  Mott, 
reaching  the  old  St  Patrick's  Church  (R.  C),  founded  in 
1809,  completed  in  181 5,  and  partly  destroyed  by  fire  in  1869. 
It  was  rebuilt  the  same  year  in 'its  present  form  at  a  cost  of 
$200,000  (Henry  Engelbert,  arch.).  The  interior  is  in  the 
early  English  Gothic  style  of  the  13th  century.  This  church 
was  formerly  the  Cathedral  of  New  York,  until  after  the  com- 
pletion of  the  New  St.  Patrick's  on  5th  Ave.   (p  199). 

Among  the  graves  in  the  surrounding  church-yard  are  those  of 
Francis  Delmonico,  several  of  the  Paulist  Fathers,  Monseigneur  Pres- 
ton, Vicar  General  Starr,  Second  Resident  Bishop  Connolly,  Third  Resi- 
dent Bishop  Dubois,  John  Kelly,  the  lawyers  Brady  and  O'Connor,  and 
the  bankers  Hargous  and  Donnelly.  The  oldest  tomb,  that  of  Valentine 
Sherry,  is  dated  1805. 

Two  blocks  N.,  on  East  Houston  St.,  near  2d  Ave.,  is 
St.  Augustine  Chapel,  the  fourth  in  order  of  time  of  the 
Trinity  chapels.  The  interior  decorations,  windows,  etc., 
repay  a  visit.  The  chapel  bell  was  cast  in  1700  and  was  pre- 
sented to  Trinity  by  the  Bishop  of  London  m  1704.  Beneath 
the  chapel  are  Sunday-school  class-rooms  which,  with  the 
rooms  in  the  adjoining  mission  house,  have  a  capacity  of  1600 
scholars. 

Further  E.  on  Houston  St.,  No.  257,  is  Little  Hungary,  a 
widely  known  boheniian  resort,  where  dinner  is  served  in  the 
wine-cellars,  in  the  midst  of  casks  and  barrels  (p.  25). 

It  started  in  a  modest  way  about  20  years  ago,  when  four  or  five 
men  persuaded  the  proprietor  to  serve  them  Hungarian  meals  in  his 
cellar.  The  new  idea  caught  the  public  fancy,  and  soon  slumming 
parties  to  East  Houston  St.  became  popular  in  the  fashionable  set.  The 
time  to  see  Little  Hungary  at  its  best  is  on  some  gala  night  when  a 
Hungarian  ball  or  wedding  is  in  progress. 

Continuing  E.  we  reach,  between  Pitt  and  Sheriff  Sts., 
Hamilton  Fish  Park,  the  site  of  two  city  blocks  of  notorious 
tenements. 

Willett  St.  which  cuts  the  park  in  two,  and  Sheriff  St.  on  the  E. 
both  preserve  the  memory  of  Marinus  Willett,  a  famous  "Liberty  Boy" 
and  at  one  time  Sheriff  of  New  York. 

If  we  go  N.  to  2d  St.,  we  pass,  E.  of  2d  Ave.,  the  New 
York  City  Marble  Cemetery,  dating  from  1832.  It  contains 
the  grave  of  James  Lenox;  and  here  President  Monroe  and 
John  Ericsson  were  temporarily  interred.  There  is  a  second 
Marble  Cemetery  now  completely  surrounded  by  dwellinjfs. 
The  entrance  is  at  41  >4  2d  Ave.,  but  it  is  really  not  worth  the 
trouble  of  gaining  admission. 

Three  blocks  west  on  2d  St.  we  reach  Lafayette  St.,  which 
since  1905  extends  from  Center  St.  to  Astor  Place,  and  in- 
cludes what  were  formerly  Elm,  New  Elm  and  part  of  Marion 
St.,  as  well  as  Lafayette  Place.    S.  on  the  E.  side,  near  Hous- 


FROM  CANAL  TO  FOURTEENTH  STREET       153 

ton  St.  is  the  extensive  red  brick  Puck  Building,  where  the 
well  known  satiric  weekly  of  that  name  is  published.  Note 
the  gilt-bronze  figure  of  Puck  above  the  entrance. 

Two  blocks  N.,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Great  Jones  St.,  is  the 
St.  Joseph  Home  for  Industrial  Boys.  This  admirable  in- 
stitution, the  purpose  of  which  is  to  provide  a  home  at  mini- 
mum cost  for  self-supporting  newsboys,  is  largely  the  outcome 
of  the  tireless  labors  of  the  Rev.  John  C.  Drumgoole;  a 
bronze  memorial  statue  in  bronze,  by  Robert  Gushing,  was 
,  placed  at  the  cDrner  of  the  building  in  1892. 

Nos.  428-3A  Lafayette  St.  are  all  that  remain  of  the  old  Colonnade 
Row,  once  a  fashionable  residential  center.  From  one  of  these  old 
houses  President  Tyler  was  married  to  Julia  Gardiner,  of  Gardiner's 
Island.  Washington  Irving  and  John  Jacob  Astor  at  one  time  lived 
in  the  Row. 

Opposite,  on  the  E.  side  of  Lafayette  St.,  stands  a  lacge 

red-brick    and    brown-stone    building,    formerly    the  Astor 

Library,  originally  endowed  by  John  Jacob  Astor,  who  left 

by  will  $400,000  for  the  purpose. 

The  library  was  incorporated  in  1849,  and  its  first  home  was  at 
32  Bond  St.,  In  1854  ^be  central  portion  of  the  present  structure  was 
completed  (Griffith  Thomas,  arch.).  The  side  wings  were  added 
respectively  in  1859  and  1881.  The  original  endowment  was  increased 
by  the  founder's  son,  William  B.  Astor,  with  $550,000,  and  by  the 
grandson,  John  Jacob  Astor,  with  $700,000.  Tne  original  board  of 
trustees  included  Washington  Irving.  The  Astor  collection  is  now  in 
the  N.  Y.  Public  Library  (p.   186). 

Astor  Place  (named  after  John  Jacob  Astor),  earlier 
called  Art  St.,  is  a  short  street  slanting  southward  from  3d 
Ave.  to  744  Broadway.  Its  peculiar  slant  is  due  to  the  fact 
that  it  follows  the  original  winding  course  of  the  old  Inland 
Road  to  Greenwich.  At  No.  13  is  the  Mercantile  Library, 
a  private  library  established  in  1820,  with  a  large  number  of 

subscribers  and  excellent  service. 

The  present  building  (the  third  Clinton  Hall),  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  Astor  Place  Opera  House,  the  scene  of  the  Macready-Forreat 
riots  in  1849,  the  culmination  of  a  bitter  quarrel  between  the  two 
actors.  No  less  than  20,000  persons  were  involved,  and  the  7th 
Regiment  had  to  be  called  out  to  quell  it. 

The  Mercantile  Library  was  organized  by  the  clerks  of  merchants, 
at  No.  40  Fulton  St.  The  first  Clinton  Hall,  erected  at  Nassau  and 
Beekman  Sts.,  was  so  named  because  Dewitt  Clinton  gave  the  first 
volume  to  the  library  when  organized.  In  1854  it  removed  to  the 
Astor  Place  Opera  House,  demolished  in  1892,  when  the  present  build- 
ing was  erected.  The  library  rooms  have  space  for  nearly  500,000 
volumes.     The  annual  dues  are  $5.00. 

In  the  open  space  E.  of  the  Library  is  a  statue  of  S.  S. 
Cox,  erected  by  the  postmen  in  recognition  of  his  efforts  in 
Congress  to  better  their  working  conditions  (Louisa  Lawton, 
artist). 


154  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  New  York  Women's  League  for  Animals  maintains 
at  350  Lafayette  St.  a  model  free  hospital  and  dispensary  for 
animals,  well  worth  a  visit  by  animal  lovers. 

Cooper  Union  occupies  a  plot  bet.  3rd  and  4th  aves.  at 
their  intersection,  S.  of  Astor  Place.  It  is  an  old-fashioned 
brown  sandstone  building,  founded  in  1857  by  Peter  Cooper 
(1791-1883),  to  furnish  free  education  for  persons  employed 
during  the  day.  It  contains  a  large  library  and  a  newspaper 
room  open  to  all  from  8  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.  with  an  extensive 
assortment  of  newspapers  and  newspaper  files.  The  reading 
room  contains  a  complete  set  of  Patent  Reports. 

Both  day  and  evening  courses  are  given,  without  tuition,  in  dra'wing, 
painting,  modeling,  telegraphy,  stenography,  etc.  Young  men  and 
women  have  been  quick  to  avail  themselves  of  these  opportunities  and 
the  classes  are  full  every  year  An  annex  has  been  built  betw.  6th  and 
7th  sts.  on  3rd  ave.,  called  tfee  Abram  Hewitt  Memorial  Annex.  The 
hall  in  the  Basement  of  the  old  building  is  famous  in  the  history  of 
political  agitation  and  reform.  Here  Garrison,  Phillips,  and  Beecher 
pleaded  for  abolition.  The  hall  has  always  stood  for  free  speech  and  to- 
day all  sorts  of  political,  social,  and  religious  addresses  are  delivered 
to  alert,  intelligent  audiences  of  mingled  nationalities.  The  phrase 
"a  Cooper  Union  audience"  has  become  proverbial  to  describe  the  radi- 
cal ana  enthusiastic  crowds  that  gather  here. 

On  the  4th  floor  is  the  Cooper  Union  Museum  for  the  Arts  of 
Decoration.  Open  (free)  from  Oct.  1st  to  May  ist,  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 
daily,  except  Sunday  and  Monday  (visitors  obtain  tickets  at  office) ;  and 
every  evening  except  Saturday  and  Sunday,  6:30  to  9:30  (passes 
obtained  at  Room  25).  The  visitor  ascends  stairs  in  S.  E.  cor.  Note 
in  E.  corridor,  several  memorial  tablets:  (i)  Memorial  to  centenary  of 
Peter  Cooper's  birth,  a  bronze  medallion  by  A.  S.  Haskell,  in  colored 
marble  frame;  (2)  A  silver  memorial  tablet  to  Abram  S.  Hewitt;  (3) 
Bronze  tablet  to  Prof.  William  A.  Anthony  (1835-1908);  (4)  Memorial 
to  Edward  Cooper,  son  of  the  founder;  (5)  Marble  bust  of  the  Rev. 
Robert  Collyer. 

The  E.  corridor  of  the  museum  contains  the  Pierpont  Morgan 
Collection  of  Textiles,  in  upward  of.  a  dozen  lar^e  cases,  including 
brocades,  printed  linens,  velvets,  etc.,  many  specimens  dating  back 
to  the  14th  century.  Of  the  rooms  opening  to  the  east  of  the  corridor, 
the  more  interesting  are  the  following:  Room  2,  containing  a  Collec- 
tion of  Early  Bindings;  Room  3,  containing  the  Defloux  Collection  of 
English  and  German  furniture  of  the  17th  to  i8th  century;  Room  s. 
Old  French  Furniture.  17th  Century  Wood-Carving  from  Flanders, 
Italy  and  England;  1 7th- 1 8th  century  laces,  and  a_  few  interesting  old 
Italian  paintings.  In  the  corridor  is  the  Jacob  Schiff  Collection  of  i8th 
century  French  and  Chinese  silks.  The  Northern  corridor  contains  the 
Thomas  Smith  Collection  of  laces  and  the  Loan  Exhibit  of  laces  belong- 
ing to  Miss  Eleanor  Hewitt.  The  western  rooms  contain  chiefly  plaster 
casts  of  foreign  sculptures,  fountain,  vases,  mantel-pieces,  etc. 

Just  S.  of  Cooper  Union,  in  the  little  triangular  square 
facing  the  Bowery,  is  the  statue  of  Peter  Cooper,  by  Augus- 
tus St.  Gaudens,  with  pedestal  and  canopy  by  Stanford  White. 
The  new  two-story  Hewitt  Annex  occupying  the  block  on  the 
E.  from  6th  to  7th  Sts.,  was  planned  to  relieve  the  crowded 
rooms  of  the  Cooper  Union;  but  lack  of  funds  has  Relayed 
the  construction  of  the  six  additional  stories  originally  pro- 
jected. 


FROM  CANAL  TO  FOURTEENTH  STREET   155 

Directly  north  of  Cooper  Union,  occupying  the  block 
bounded  by  Third  and  Fourth  avenues,  pth  and  loth  streets, 
is  the  American  Bible  Society,  founded  in  1816,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  "encouraging  a  wider  circulation  of  the  Holy  Scrip- 
tures without  notes  or  comment."  The  society  is  non-sectarian, 
and  conducts  work  both  in  the  United  States  and  in  foreign 
countries.  It  prints  scriptures  for  the  blind  in  three  different 
styles.  Its  total  issue  of  scriptures  for  1914  was  5,251,176, 
and  for  the  past  98  years,  103,519,891. 

The  present  Bible  House  was  erected  in  1852  at  a  cost  of  over 
$300,000.  U|>on  request  at  the  main  office  visitors  are  shown  over 
the  entire  building[,  including  the  printing^  rooms  and  bindery,  thus 
witnes^ng  the  entire  process  of  book-making.  The  society  formerly 
possessed  an  interesting  collection  of  early  Bibles,  comprising  a  library 
of  5000  volumes,  but  it  has  lately  been  given  to  the  New  York  Public 
Library. 

John  IVanamaker's  Department  Store,  just  N.  of  Astor 
Place,  occupies  two  city  blocks  between  Broadway  and  4th 
Ave.,  8th  and  loth  Sts.  It  is  the  New  York  branch  of  the 
much  older  Philadelphia  store. 

The  two  stores  are  connected  at  9th  St.  by  a  bridge  adapted 
from  the  historic  Bridge  of  Sighs  at  Venice,  and  also  by  an  under- 
ground passage.  The  northern  building  was  formerly  the  uptown  branch 
of  A.  T.  Stewart,  New  York's  first  '^Merchant  Prince"  (1823-76).  It 
was  erected  in  1862  (designed  by  John  Kellum,  architect  of  the  County 
(^ourt  House).  In  the  new,  or  south  building  the  chief  feature  is  the 
second  floor,  which  is  ^ven  over  entirely  to  pianos.  Each  make  has  a 
separate  room,  each  finished  in  some  characteristic  style:  e.g.,  there  are 
the  Louis  XIV,  the  Flemish,  the  Louis  XV,  the  Louis  XVI,  the 
Moorish,  the  Renaissance,  the  Empire  and  the  Old  Dutch  Rooms. 
There  is  besides  on  this  floor  an  auditorium  with  a  seating  capacity  of 
1600.  Every  day,  morning  and  afternoon,  free  concerts  are  given. 
The  organ  is  an  especially  fine  one.  The  store  has  a  Subway  connec- 
tion at  Astor  Place. 

*Grace  Church  belonging  to  the  Episcopalian  denom- 
ination, is  nearby  on  Broadway,  E.  side,  at  the  corner 
of  loth  St.,  with  church  house  and  rectory.  The  building 
(1843-6)  is  built  of  white  limestone  with  a  marble  tower,  in 
the  decorated  Gothic  style  (James  Renzvick,  Jr.,  architect). 
(Open  9  a.  m.  to  ^5  p.  m.)  The  corner  plot  has  been  pur- 
chased, cleared  of  buildings  and  presented  to  Grace  Church 
within  recent  years.  Herein  is  a  "doliola"  designed  to  hold 
grain  and  excavated  in  Rome.  The  church  has  a  choir 
school  and  a  remarkably  fine  boy  choir  adds  to  the  beauty  of 
the  service.  The  chimes  are  famous.  They  are  played  at 
12  noon  and  at  4  in  the  afternoon. 

Over  the  main  entrance,  in  the  central  tympanum,  is  a  bas-relief 
representing  The  Healing  of  the  Lame  Man  at  the  Temple  Gate.  In 
the  outer  porch  are  tablets  recording  the  donors  of  the  several  bells 
composing  the  Chime,  all  of  which  are  memorials.  In  the  inner  porch 
are   numerous  tablets   commemorative  of  the  founding  of  the  parish. 


156  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  completion  of  the  present  edifice,  of  various  church  officers,  etc. 
The  altar  and  reredos  were  given  by  the  late  Catharine  Lorillard  Wolfe. 
The  central  panel  of  the  reredos  shows  Christ  saying  to  his  dicipies 
"Lo!  I  am  with  you  always."  In  the  side  panels  are  figures  of  the 
evangelists.  The  pulpit,  designed  by  W.  W.  Bosworth,  has  at  the 
angles  figures  of  the  great  preachers  of  apostolic  times.  In  the  north 
transept  are  two  marble  busts:  (i)  eastern  corner,  Bishop  Potter ,  for 
many  years  rector  of  Grace  Church;  (2)  western  corner,  James  Renxvick, 
the  architect  of  the  church.  Over  the  doorway  in  the  south  transept  is 
a  memorial  tablet  inscribed  "In  thankful  memory  of  Catharine  Lorillard 
Wolfe,  oft-times  and  in  many  ways  the  helper  of  the  Church." 

The  many  beautiful  windows,  most  of  them  memorials,  were  made 
in  England.  Those  attributed  to  Burne-Jones  were  really  designed  by 
his  pupil  Holiday,  although  some  of  the  faces  may  have  been  by 
Burne-Jones  himself. 

Windows  in  lower  wall:  Beginning  on  north  aisle,  L.  Jacob's 
Dream,  by  Tilling  hast ;  (2)  Ruth  and  Naomi,  by  Holiday;  (3)  Joseph 
and  Benjamin,  by  Holiday;  (4)  The  Heavenly  Hosts,  by  Booth;  (5) 
Six  Gospel  Scenes,  by  Loren  (^ift  of  Renwick,  the  architect);  (6) 
Moses  Smiting  the  Rock,  by  Burlxson  &  Grylls;  (7)  Elijah  and  Daniel, 
by  Clayton  &  Bell;  (8)  David  and  Aaron,  by  Clayton  &  Bell;  (9) 
Abraham  and  St.  Peter;  (10)  St.  Martin  of  Tours  and  St.  Ferpetua, 
by  Henton,  Butler  &  Bayne;  (11)  The  Garden  of  the  Resurrection,  by 
Booker;  (12)  The  Nativity,  by  Clayton  &  Bell;  (13)  Fra  Angelico's 
Angels,  by  Sharp;  (14)  The  Four  Marys,  by  Holidav  (gift  of  Grace 
Church);  (i.s)  The  Resurrection  of  Lazarus  and  of  Jairus'  Daughter, 
by  Holiday;  (16)  The  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes,  by  Booth. 

Windows  in  the  upper  and  clearstory  wall:  (i)  over  entrance,  Rose 
Window;  (2)  be^nning  on  north  wall.  The  Prophecy  of  Enmity,  by 
Booth;  (3)  The  Prophecy  of  Shiloh;  (^)  The  Promise  of  a  Greater 
Prophet;  (5)  The  Prophecy  of  Gentile  Homage;  (6)  Continental 
Thanksgiving;  (7)  The  Patriarchs,  by  Clayton  &  Bell  (large  N.  transept 
window,  a  memorial  to  Peter  Schermerhorn  and  Sarah,  his  wife) ;  (8) 
The  Finding  of  Moses,  by  Clayton  &  Bell  (as  are  all  the  following 
windows  to  No.  21  inclusive);  (9)  The  Offering  of  Isaac;  (10)  The 
Baptism  of  Christ;  (ii)  The  Resurrection;  (12),  (13)  and  the  two 
opposite  windows,  (15),  (16),  recently  added  when  the  chancel  was 
extended,  contain  numerous  panels  of  early  Church  Fathers  and  Dig- 
nitaries; (14)  The  Church  Triumphant  (large  window  over  altar  in 
chancel;  the  gift  of  Miss  Wolfe);  (17)  The  Ascension;  (18)  The  Trans- 
figuration; (19)  The  Crucifixion;  (20)  The  Nativity;  (21)  Witnesses 
to  the  Incarnation  (large  S.  transept  window,  a  memorial  to  Peter 
Augustus  Schermerhorn  and  Adeline  Emily  Schermerhorn) ;  {22)  The 
Annunciation;   (23)  Gloria  in  Excelsis. 

Across  Broadway  from  Grace  Church  at  Fleischmann*s 
Bakery  and  Restaurant  (p.  20)  is  a  second  bread  line 
(p.  151),  where  bread  is  distributed  at  11:30  p.  m.  each  night 

To  the  E.,  at  2d  Ave.  and  7th  St.,  is  the  Middle  Dutch 
Church,  successor  to  the  original  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  in 
Fort  Amsterdam  and  to  the  Middle  Church,  cor.  Cedar  and 
Nassau  Sts. 

History:  The  Middle  Collegiate  Church  was  founded  in  1729  on 
Nassau  St.,  on  the  site  of  the  Mutual  Life  Building;  in  1859  it  re- 
moved to  Lafayette  Pl.j  in  1892  it  occupied  its  present  edifice,  a  lime- 
stone structure  in  Gothic  style,  with  a  graceful  spire.  The  pulpit  is  of 
pure  statuary  marble,  formerly   in  the  Lafayette   St.   Church. 

There  is  a  tablet  on  the  2d  Ave.  side.  Within  the  church  are 
pictures  of  the  former  churches;  also  memorial  tablets  to  Peter  Minuit, 


FROM  CANAL  TO  FOURTEENTH  STREET       I57 

first  Director-General  and  elder;  to  Sebastian  J.  Krol  and  Jan  Huyck, 
"Visitors  of  the  Sick";  to  the  Rev.  Jonas  Michaelius,  first  minister; 
and  to  J.  C.  Lamphier,  who  founded  the  Fulton  St.  Prayer  Meeting. 
The  church  has  some  interesting  windows,  and  because  it  is  shut  m 
by  adjacent  buildings  they  are  continually  illuminated  by  electric 
lights.  The  church  also  contains  a  memorial  to  the  victims  (nearly 
a  thousand  in  number)  who  peiished  in  the  Slocum  disaster,  in  1904, 
in  the  £^st  River. 

At   nth   St.   and  2nd   Ave.   stands   St.   Mark's-in-the- 

BOWERY. 

History:  The  old  edifice  was  willed  by  Judith  Stuyvesant  to  the 
Dutch  Reformed  Church,  with  the  proviso  that  the  Stuyvesant  family 
vault  should  be  preserved.  Peter,  the  Governor's  great-grandson,  gave 
the  -land,  chapel  and  a  bequest  of  $2000,  to  which  Trinity  Church 
Corporation  added  $12,500,  with  which  the  present  structure  was 
erected.     The  steeple  was  added  in  1829,  and  the  porch  in  1858. 

It  stands  in  the  centre  of  what  was  once  Bowery  Village,  laid  out 
on  the  farm  which  Peter  Stuyvesant  purchased  from  the  West  Indian 
Company  for  a  country  seat.  The  old  streets  ran  at  right-angles, 
forming  oblong  blocks  quite  similar  to  those  of  up-town  New  York. 
The  cross  streets  were  named  i^om.  the  male  members  of  the  Stuyvesant 
family:  Nicholas,  William,  StuyvesatU,  Peter,  and  Governor  Sts.;  the 
up-and-down  streets  from  the  female  members:  Judith,.  Eliza  and  Mar- 
garet Sts.  The  only  survival  of  these  streets,  swept  away  by  the  City 
Plan  of  1807,  when  numbered  streets  and  avenues  were  laid  out, 
is  the  short  remnant  of  Stuyvesant  St.,  preserved  to  keep  open  the 
front  approach  to   St.  Mark's  Church. 

The  church  is  open  on  week-days,  but  the  front  entrance  is  locked; 
rear  gate  on  nth  St.  open  9  to  5.  Within  are  some  interesting 
memorial  windows  and  tablets. 

The  subjects  of  the  windows,  beginning  on  west  aisle  at  main 
entrance,  are  as  follows:  (i)  "He  is  not  here  but  is  risen";  {2\  "Suf- 
fer little  children  to  come  unto  Me";  (3)  "The  Sword  of  the  Spirit  is 
the  Word  of  the  Lord";  (4)  "Blessed  are  the  dead  in  the  Lord^*;  (5) 
"Mary  sat  at  Jesus*  feet";  (6)  east  aisle,  "Follow  Me";  (7)  stained 
glass  portrait  of  Peter  Stuyvesant,  placed  in  1903  by  the  Daughters  of 
Holland  Dames  (it  marks  the  location  of  Stuyvesant's  interment) ;  (8) 
Titular  window,  St.  Mark;  (9)  St.  Augustine.  The  10th  window  is 
plain.  Between  the  9th  and  loth  windows  are  marble  memorials  to 
Nicholas  Fish  and  to  his  wife  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Peter  Stuyvesant. 
Around  the  walls  of  the  'balcony  have  lately  been  hung  twelve 
monochrome  designs  in  brown  on  unstretched  canvas,  suspended  like 
tapestries.  The  subjects  are  life-size  enlargements  of  Blake's  familiar 
four-inch  wood-cut  illustrations  of  the  Book  of  Job  (done  by  Sperry). 

In  the  Church-yard  (where  interments  still  occasionally  talce  place) 
are  a  number  of  interesting  graves:  Among  others.  Dr.  Harris,  one  of 
the  former  presidents  of  Columbia,  and  first  rector  of  St.  Mark's; 
Mayor  Philip  Hone;  Thomas  Addis  Emmett:  A.  T.  Stewart  (whose 
body  was  stolen  in  1878);  and  Governor  D.  T.  Tompkins  (in  the 
Minthorne  vault).  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  church,  under  the 
second  window,  is  a  tablet  marking  the  vault  where  Peter  Stuyvesant 
and  Cyovernor  Slaughter  are  interred. 

Governor  Stuyvesant's  Pear  Tree,  which  he  planted  in  1644  as  a 
memorial  'by  which  his  name  might  still  be  remembered,'  stood  for  200 
years  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  Third  Ave.  and  13th  st.    (memorial  tablet). 

The  church  has  recently  instituted  a  most  interesting  series  of 
Sunday  afternoon  talks  on  literary  or  sociological  topics  at  which  well- 
known  writers  may  often  be  heard. 


158  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

VIII.     From  Chambers  Street  to  Fourteenth  Street 
West  of  Broadway:  Greenwich  Village 

A.     From  Chambers  Street  to  Grand  Street. 

The  section  of  the  city  lying  W.  of  Broadway,  from  Chambers  St. 
almost  to  Canal  St.,  contains  little  of  interest  to  the  tourist.  It  is  an 
agglomeration  of  sad  looking  warehouses,  wholesale  business  concerns 
and  manufactories,  stamped  for  the  most  part  with  the  marks  of 
shabby  middle  age,  yet  in  point  of  fact  this  section  is  the  youngest 
part  of  the  downtown  district.  The  old  Greenwich  Road  (now  Green- 
wich St.),  which  skirted  it  along  the  river  bank,  was  borne  on  a  raised 
causeway  where  it  crossed  the  swampy  grounds  at  Canal  st.  (Lispen- 
ard*s  Meadows),  and  again  near  Charlton  st.  where  Minetta  Water 
broadened  into  a  marsh.  Even  so,  the  rdad  was  often  heavy  and  in- 
undated by  high  tides;  so  that  traffic  for  the  most  part  followed  th( 
Inland  Road  to  Greenwich,  along  the  Post  Road  (now  the  Bowery), 
and  across  by  Monument  Road,  remnants  of  which  are  the  present 
Astor  Place  and  Greenwich  ave. 

Most  of  this  western  section  was  originally  taken  up  by  the 
Annetje  Jans  Farm,  which  after  her  second  marriage  to  Dominie  Bo- 
gardus,  came  to  be  known  as  the  Bogardus  Bouwerie.  It  was  confiscated 
in  1674  by  the  Duke  of  York,  known  thereafter  successively  as  the 
Duke's  Farm,  the  King's  Farm  and  the  Queen's  Farm,  until  finally, 
in  170S,  it  was  granted  in  perpetuity  by  Queen  Anne  to  Trinity  Church, 
which  still  retains  its  title  to  most  of  the  land. 

IVest  Broadway  begins  at  Vesey  st.  and  extends  N.  to 
Washington  Square.  It  has  undergone  several  changes  in 
name,  a  portion  of  it  having  formerly  been  known  as  Laurens 
St.  (after  a  revolutionary  officer),  while  the  upper  section 
was  until  comparatively  recently  called  South  Fifth  Avenue. 
It  is  a  narrow,  depressing  thoroughfare,  darkened  by  the 
elevated  railroad  structure,  and  largely  given  over  to  whole- 
sale grocers,  wine  merchants,  etc.  About  the  only  feature 
of  historic  interest  is  the  names  of  the  cross  streets,  most 

of  them  taken   from   former  dignitaries  of  Trinity  Church. 

Vesey  st.,  our  starting  point,  was  named  after  the  Rev.  William 
Vesey,  first  Rector  of  Trinity.  Continuing  N.,  we  reach  next  Barclay 
St.,  (after  Rev.  Mr.  Barclay,  second  Rector).  Then  comes  Murray  St., 
named  after  a  distinguished  officer  and  a  dignitary  of  the  Church;  then 
IVarren  St.,  after  Sir  Peter  Warren,  a  Commander  of  the  British 
naval  forces,  who  married  the  daughter  of  James  Delancey  (see  p.  162); 
next.  Chambers  st.,  after  John  Chambers,  a  lawyer;  then  Reade  st., 
after  another  prominent  officer  of  the  Church;  four  blocks  N.,  Leonard 
St.,  which,  like  Lispenard  st.,  six  blocks  further  N.,  is  named  after 
Leonard  Lispenard,  owner  of  Lispenard's  Meadows,  acquired  through 
his  wife,  daughter  of  Anthony  Rutgers  who,  in  17 10,  succeeded  in 
draining  the  swamp  which  previously  made  this  region  worthless. 

The  visitor  who  noted  the  beginning  of  Pearl  st.  at  lower  Broad- 
way may  be  surprised  to  find  the  other  end  of  that  meandering  thoro- 
fare  also  on  Broadway,  above  Duane  st. 

At  Beach  st.,  four  blocks  N.  of  Leonard,  is  a  small 
triangular  park,  the  onlj'  surviving  reminder  of  the  Annetje 
Jans  Farm.  One  block  W.  on  Beach  St.,  then  N.  on  Varick, 
brings  us  to  St.  John's  Chapel,  the  third  in  point  of  time  of 
the  Trinity  Parish  chapels,  and  third  oldest  church  structure 


WEST  SIDE  TO  GREENWICH  VILLAGE  159 

yet  standing  in  Manhattan,  the  cornerstone  having  been  laid 
in  ?8o3  by  Bishop  Benjamin  Moore,  and  the  edifice  completed 
in  1807,  at  a  cost  of  $172,800  (John  and  Isaac  McComb, 
architects).  It  is  antedated  only  by  St.  Paul's  Chapel  (1764- 
66),  and   St.   Mark's   Church    (1795-99). 

In  design  this  church  is  mainly  on  the  Corinthian  order,  and 
is  copied  freely  from  St.  Martin-in-the-Fields,  London,  Its  dignified 
portico  is  supported  on  four  Corinthian  columns.  Its  dimensions  are 
13a  ft.  by  72  ft.  wide,  and  it  is  surmounted  by  a  three  storied  spire 
314  ft.  high,  composed  successively  of  Ionic,  Corinthian  and  composite 
orders.  Extensive  alterations  in  the  rear  were  made  in  1857  by  R.  M. 
Upjohn  and  Company. 

The  interior  is  a  simple  parallelogram,  with  straight  galleries  ex- 
tending along  three  sides;  the  dark  gray  cylindrical  vault  of  the  roof 
is  borne  upon  a  double  row  of  bronze-tinted  Corinthian  columns.  The 
galleries,  columns  and  pulpit  are  original.  The  bell,  clock  and  iron 
lence  were  brought  from  London. 

In  1915  St.  John's  narrowly  escaped  being  demolished,  during  the 
process  of  widening  Varick  st.,  in  connection  with  the  extension  south- 
ward of  Seventh  ave.  and  the  excavations  for  the  new  subway.  The 
diflficulty  was  finally  adjusted  by  allowing  the  four  columns  supporting 
the  portico  to  remain  on  the  line  of  the  new  curb-stone,  while  the  new 
sidewalk  passes  within  them,  beneath  the  portico. 

Opposite  the  church,  on  the  W.  side  of  Varick  st.  is  the 
site  of  St.  John's  Park,  a  private  park  for  the  exclusive  use 
of  adjacent  residents,  as  Gramercy  Park  still  is.  When  the 
church  was  first  erected,  there  were  many  who  thought  it 
a  mistake  to  have  located  it  so  far  out  from  town,  and  it  . 
was  known  as  St.  John's-in-the-Fields.  But  the  opening  of 
the  park  in  1823  very  soon  made  this  a  fashionable  residential 
section.  In  1865,  however,  it  was  sold  to  the  N.  Y.  Central 
and  Hudson  R.  R.  Co.,  and  the  unsightly  freight  depot  erected 
on  it  caused  a  rapid  migration  of  the  better  class  of  residents. 
At  one  time  Fenimore  Cooper  lived  on  Beach  st.  near  the 
park;  and  the  former  residence  of  John  Ericsson,  the  in- 
ventor, is  still  standing,  No.  36  Beach  st.,  and  on  the  roof 
of  it  can  be  seen  a  small  superstrucure,  in  which  he  con- 
ducted his  experiments. 

On  the  Varick  st.  side  of  the  freight  station  is  a  colossal 
ornamental  pediment  in  bronze,  intended  as  an  allegorical 
glorification  of  Commodore  Vanderbilt's  career  (erected  1869). 

It  is  ISO  ft.  long  by  30  ft.  high  at  the  central  point.  In  the 
centre  is  a  portrait  statue  of  the  Commodore,  heroic  size,  (height, 
12  ft.;  weight  12  tons).  On  the  left  stretches  the  ocean  overstrewn 
with  ihe  Commodore's  ships,  while  Neptune  in  the  distance  pays  him 
homage.  On  the  right'  is  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  plains  and  the 
Rockies,  with  swift  trains  doing  the  Commodore's  bidding,  and  the 
Goddess  Liberty  smiling  her  approval.    The  total  weight  is  about  50  tons. 

Near  the  foot  of  Leight  st.  (the  next  street  N.)  is  the 
spot  where  Washington  landed,  June  25,   1775,  on  his   way 


i6o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

to  Cambridge,  to  take  command  of  the  American  army.  The 
tablet  formerly  on  West  st,  just  S.  of  Leight,  has  been 
removed. 

Continuing  N.  on  West  Broadway,  we  pass  near  Grand 
St.  the  R.  C.  Church  of  St.  Alphonsus.  It  occupies  the  site 
of  the  Lafayette  Amphitheatre,  built  in   1826. 

It  was  named  in  honor  of  Lafayette,  on  the  occasion  of  his  second 
visit  to  America.  The  celebration  ball  given  at  the  time  of  the  opening 
of  the  Erie  Canal  took  place  here. 

B.     Greenwich  Village. 

The  section  adjacent  to  Washington  Square,  and  ex- 
tending W.  to  the  North  River  and  N.  to  14th  st.  is  still 
popularly  known  as  Greenwich  Village,  from  the  name  of 
the  early  settlement  in  this  locality.  It  is  a  favorite  centre 
for  artists,  authors  and  journalists. 

History.  With  the  exception  of  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Battery,  Greenwich  Village  is  the  oldest  habitation  of  white  men  on 
Manhattan  Island.  Still  earlier  it  was  the  site  of  an .  Indian  village, 
Saf  pokanican,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  present.  Gansevoort  Market. 
Sappokanican  was  one  of  the  four  farms  set  aside  by  the  first  Dutch 
governor,  Peter  Minuit,  to  be  reserved  to  the  Dutch  West  India  Com- 
pany in  perpetuity.  His  successor,  Wouter  Van  Twiller,  however, 
appropriated  it  for  his  private  tobacco  farm.  His  farmhouse  was  the 
first  dwelling  erected  on  Manhattan  north  of  New  Amsterdam.  It  was 
the  nucleus  of  a  small  hamlet  that  slowly  formed  and  was  known 
by  the  Dutch  as  Bossen  Bouerie,  the  "Farm  in  the  Woods.'* 

For  about  a  hundred  years,  Bossen  Bouerie  remained  a  hamlet 
"tucked  into  the  edge  of  the  woodland  .  .  .  and  the  hamleters  doubt- 
less had  very  fine  trout  fishing  between  the  future  Fifth  and  Sixth 
avenues  in  the  Minetta  Water;  and  in  the  autumn  good  duck-shooting 
over  the  marsh  where  later  was  to  be  Washington  Square."  Thomas 
Janvier. 

The  nucleus  of  Greenwich  Village  as  an  English  settlement  .was  the 
IVarren  Mansion,  built  by  Sir  Peter  Warren  on  his  300  acre  farm, 
acquired  in  the  early  part  of  the  1 8th  century.  Among  other  early 
residents  of  p/cminence  were  Oliver  De  Lancey  (Warren's  brother- 
in-law),  George  Clinton,  William  Bayard  and  James  Jauncey. 

In  the  early  years  of  the  19th  century,  repeated  epidemics  of 
small-pox  and  yellow  fever  drove  many  New  Yorkers  to  seek  compara- 
tive safety  in  the  Greenwich  section,  which  in  consequence  was  rapidly 
built  up. 

The  checker-board  scheme  of  New  York  streets,  carried  out  in  the 
city  plan  of  1807,  had  little  effect  on  the  old  Greenwich  haphazard 
criss-cross  of  streets  and  lanes,  beyond  a  few  anomalous  and  confusing 
changes  of  names,  in  consequence  of  which  a  stranger  is  sadly  puzzled 
when  he  finds  W.  4th  st.  suddenly  turns  north  and  presently  crosses  at 
right-angles  loth,  nth  and  12th  sts.  Far  greater  havoc  has  been 
wrought  by  the  recent  extension  southward  01  7th  ave.  from  rath  at. 
until  it  meets  Varick  st.  at  the  cor.  of  Spring  st.,  ploughing  a  wide 
diagonal  furrow  through  the  heart  of  the  old  village,  leaving  queer, 
isolated  triangles,  and  sweeping  away  numerous  ancient  landmarks. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Varick  and  Spring  sts.  stands  the 
Spring  Street  Presbyterian  Church,  organized  in  1811,  the 
present  structure  dating  from   1835.     It  escaped  the  recent 


WEST  SIDE  TO  GREENWICH  VILLAGE  i6i 

widening  of  Varick  St.  with  no  more  serious  loss  than  a  few 
feet  of  church-yard.  To  the  E.  on  Spring  st,  N.  W.  cor. 
of  McDougal,  is  the  lofty  Butterick  Building,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Butterick  Patterns,  and  containing  the 
editorial  offices  of  the  Delineator,  the  Woman's  Magazine, 
Everybody's  Magazine,  etc.    * 

One  block  N.  is  Charlton  st,,  where  (at  No.  4)  there  is 
still  standing  a  modest  three-story  red  brick  dwelling,  the 
first  home  of  William  Astor,  brother  of  the  first  John  Jacob 
Astor.     It  is  now  occupied  by  an  Industrial  School. 

Charlton  st.  is  named  from  John  Charlton,  a  surgeon  in  the 
British  Army,  who  settled  here  and  later  became  President  of  the 
Medical    Society. 

Four  squares  N.  to  Clarkson,  then  W.  to  Hudson  St., 
brings  us  to  Hudson  Park,  adjoining  the  Leroy  st.  Branch 
of  the  N.  Y.  Public  Library.  The  park  occupies  the  site 
of  the  St.  John's  Cemetery;  it  was  converted  in  1898,  and  was 
first  christened  St.  John's  Park  (not  to  be  confused  with  St! 
John's  Park  at  Varick  st. ;  p.  159).  Note  the  quaint  Fireman's 
Monument,  the  sole  remainder  of  the  use  to  which  the 
locality  was  formerly  devoted. 

Roaming  through  the  adjacent  streets,  a  visitor  with  an  eye  for 
the  quaint  and  picturesque  will  repeatedly  come  upon  some  venerable 
old  wooden  house,  with  curious  carved  vestibules  and  wrought-ironwork. 
Yet  how  comparatively  recent  the  crowded  city  blocks  or  this  section 
really  are  is  evidenced  by  the  reminiscences  of  an  octogenarian 
(quoted  by  Janvier),  who  in  1822  sat  at  the  window  of  his  boyhood 
hotae  on  Leroy  St.,  and  looking  across  the  fields  to  the  spot  where  the 
Washington  Arch  now  stands,  watched  the  erection  of  a  gallows,  on 
which  a  negro  girl  was  hanged  for  murder   (p.    174). 

On  Barrow  st.,  two  l>locks  N.  of  Leroy,  turn  E.  to  Com- 
merce St.  The  S.  W.  cor.,  now  occupied  by  a  modern  loft 
building,  is  the  site  of  the  recently  demolished  Broderick 
House,  the  home  (in  the  early  "forties")  of  David  C.  Brod- 
erick, who  went  to  California,  became  a  U.  S.  Senator  and 
was  subsequently  shot  in  a  duel  by  Judge  Terry. 

Further  E.  on  Commerce  st.  No.  15,  is  the  former  home 
of  Washington  Irvinp's  sister. 

Continuing  N.   on  Hudson  st.  to  Grove  st.,  we  reach, 

N.  E.  cor.,  the  latest  home  of  the  old  Grove  Street  School, 

the  third  oldest  school  in  the  city  (P.  S.  No.  3). 

The  earlier  structure  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1905.  On  the  Hud- 
son St.  facade  is  a  tablet,  commemorating  Lafayette's  visit  to  the  ori- 
ginal school  in  1824,  it  having  been  "selected  as  the  best  example  of  the 
public  school  system  as  established  by  the  Free  School  Society  of  the 
City  of  New  York."     (Gift  of  C.  R.  Lamb,  a  former  pupil.) 

Diagonally  opposite  on  Hudson  st.  is  the  quaint  old 
structure  of  St.  Luke's,  formerly  an  independent  church, 
but  now  one  of  the  Trinity  chapels,  the  orierinal  congrega- 


i62  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

tion  having  moved  uptown  to  their  new  church  building  on 
Convent  ave.  The  Home  for  Aged  Couples,  formerly  occupy- 
ing the  building  adjoining  the  old  chapel,  has  also  moved, 
its  new  quarters  being  on  W.  112th  st. 

Turning  W.  on  Christopher  st.  to  the  river  front,  we  find 
in  the  narrow  space  between  West  and  Weehawken  sts.  a 
row  of  very  old  wooden  houses  (probably  among  the  oldest 
on  the  island),  supposed  to  have  been  built  before  1763.  Note 
their  curious,   sloping  roofs   and  upstairs  balconies. 

Returning  on  Christopher  st.  to  Bleecker,  we  reach  the 
former  residence  of  Mme.  Bonneville,  No.  309  Bleecker  st., 
where  Tom  Paine,  author  of  "The  Age  of  Reason,"  spent 
his  last  years.  Paine  died  in  a  small  wooden  house  standing 
in  the  rear,  its  site  being  marked  by  the  present  No.  59 
Grove  st.  If  we  go  N.  W.  on  Bleecker  st,  we  pass,  in  the 
block  bounded  by  Charles,  Bleecker,  Perry  and  West  4th  sts., 
the  site,  hidden  in  the  middle  of  the  block,  of  the  Warren 
Matision,  the  starting-point  of   Greenwich  village    (p.   160). 

Here  Admiral  Warren  lived  with  his  wife,  Susannah  De  Lancey: 
here  their  three  daughters,  Charlotte,  Ann  and  Susannah,  were  born: 
here  the  mother  stayed  on,  educating  her  daughters  and  overseeing 
the  farm,  after  Sir  Peter  had  returned  to  England,  joining  him  only 
in  1747,  after  his  election  to  Parliament.  The  daughters  all  married 
Englishmen:  Charlotte  married  the  Earl  of  Abingdon;  Ann  married 
Charles  Fitzroy,  later  Baron  Southampton;  Susannah's  husband  was 
Col.  William  Skinner.  When  roads  were  cut  through  the  Warren 
acres,  these  three  husbands'  names  were  all  represented:  Skinner 
Road  was  the  present  Christopher  St.;  Fitzroy  Road  ran  N.  from  14th 
to  42d  on  the  line  of  8th  ave.;  Southampton  road  followed  the 
line  of  the  i>resent  Gansevoort  St.,  continuing  until  it  intersected  21st 
St.,  then  Abingdon  road,  and   later  known   as  Love  lane. 

Two  blocks  further  N.,  Bleecker*  terminates  in  Abingdon 
Square,  (1-5  acre),  the  only  surviving  memorial  of  any 
branch  of  Admiral  Warren's  descendants. 

W.  of  Abingdon  Sq.,  on  Jane  St.,  No.  82,  is  the  site  of 
William  Bayard's  house,  where  Alexander  Hamilton  died. 
Five  blocks  N.  on  Washington  st.  we  reach  Bank  st,  so 
called  because  during  the  great  fever  epidemic  of  1822  much 
of  the  New  York  financial  business  was  suddenly  shifted  to 
Greenwich,  and  a  whole  block  of  hastily'  erected  wooden 
buildings  were  occupied  as  branches  of  the  down-town  banks. 

Adjoining  Bank  st.,  on  the  river  front,  is  Gansevoort 
Market,  a  spacious  open-air  market  place. 

Most  of  this  space  is  filled-in  ground,  where  there  was  formerly 
a  bay,  with  a  projecting  point  of  land  in  the  centre,  occupied  by  Fort 
Gansevoort  (named  from  General  Peter  Gansevoort,  an  officer  in 
Washington's  army).  This  fort  was  erected  in  1812,  and  demolished 
in   1851. 

Immediately  east  of  the  market  is  the  site  of  Sappokanican,  the 
"Carrying  Place,"  an  Indian  village  where,  according  to  tradition, 
Henry  Hudson  stopped  to  trade  in   1609. 


MIDTOWN   NEW   YORK 

(Fourteenth  Street  to  Fifty-ninth  Street) 
I.     Broadway   from   Union   Square   to   Columbus 

Circle 

Broadway  crosses  14th  st.  at  Union  Square.  Fourteenth 
st,  was  only  a  few  years  ago  an  important  shopping  center, 
spreading  out  to  Broadway  on  one  side  and  6th  ave.  on  the 
other.  H cam's  Dept.  Store  (p.  75)  between  5th  and  6th 
aves.  on  the  S.  side  is  the  only  important  store  left. 

Broadway  now  skirts  Union  Square  (PI.  I — C4),  3.48  a., 
betw.  14th  and  17th  sts.,  Broadway  and  4th  ave..  This  land 
was  set  a§ide  as  a  park  in  the  city  plan  of  1807-11,  and  for- 
mally laid  out  in  1832. 

In  it  are  a  Central  Fountain,  dating  from  the  introduction  of  Croton 


Statue  of  Waskingion  at  the  S.E.  corner,  a  copy  of  Houdin's,  erected 
by  the  city  merchants  in  1856  on  the  spot  vvhere  Washington  was  re- 
ceived by  the  citizens  on  Evacuation  Day,  Nov.  35,  1783;  a  Statue  of 
Lincoln,  at  the  S.W.  corner,  by  H.  K,  Brown,  erected  by  popular  sub- 
scription in  1866;  and  Statue  of  Lafayette,  by  Bartholdi,  and  presented 
in  1876  by  the  French  residents  of  tne  city. 

In  the  square  mass  meetings  have  always  been  held  bv  political 
parties  and  labor  organizations.  Many  clashes  have  occurred  here  be- 
tween the  people  and  the  police  in  the  struggle  for  free  speech.  The 
Socialists  hold  here  their  May-day  meeting. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  Square,  S.  E.  corner  of  isth  St., 
is  the  old  Union  Square  Hotel,  A  bronze  tablet  on  the  f agade, 
with  bas-relief  portrait  of  Henry  George,  the  champion  of  the 
Single  Tax  (by  Richard  F.  George) y  records  his  death  here, 
October  29,  1897.  At  the  S.  E.  corner  of  17th  St.,  the  West- 
moreland Apartment  House  bears  a  similar  memorial  tablet 
to  William  Lloyd  Garrison,  who  died  here  May  24,  1879. 
Diagonally  across,  on  the  N.  W.  corner  of  4th  Ave.,  the 
sixteen-story  Everett  Building  perpetuates  the  memory  of  the 
Everett  House,  a  favorite  hotel  of  an  earlier  generation. 

Forty  years  ago  Broadway  from  14th  to  23d  St  was  the 
heart  of  the  fashionable  shopping  district;  but  the  old  land- 
marks are  fast  disappearing  and  the  section  now  offers 
very  little  of  interest.  At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Union 
Square  and  15th  st.  is  the  former  store  of  Tiffany  &  Com- 
pany, jewelers,  a  gopd  specimen  of  the  heavy  and  ungainly 
cast  iron  type  of  architecture  that  marked  the  early  post- 
bellum  period.  No.  33,  the  Union  Building,  now  dwarfed  by 
surrounding  structures,  is  interesting  as  having  been  the 
first  sky-scraper  to  offer  the  New  York  Fire  Department  some 
new  problems  in  fire-fighting. 


i64  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

On  the  west  side  of  Broadway,  north  of  17th  St,  is  the 
original  Huyler^s,  the  first  of  the  now  famous  chain  of  candy 
stores. 

Theodore  Roosevelt  was  born  at  28  E.  20th  st. 

At  the  intersection  of  Broadway  and  23d  st.  is  the  oft- 
pictured  20-story  *FLAT-lRONor  Fuller  Building  (PI.  I — B4), 
one  of  the  city's  engineering  triumphs.  The  cost  of  building 
and  land  was  $4,000,000.  The  wind  whirls  around  this  build- 
ing in  a  gale,  catching  passersby  in  an  unexpected   fashion. 

The  erection  of  the  building  on  the  triangular  plot  of  land  pre- 
sented peculiar   engineering   difficulties,   but  eliminated   the  problem   of 


lighting.  The  thin  edge  of  the  wedge  has  been  rounded  off  at  a  width 
of  six  feet  and  the  E.  and  W.  facades  are  broken  by  eight-storv 
hanging    oriels.      The    fourth    and    attic    stories    are    decorated     with 


terra  cotta  designs. 

Twenty-third  street,  formerly  a  fashionable  shopping 
center,  has,  like  the  other  streets  of  the  vicinity,  been 
recently  deserted  by  the  large  department  stores  and  retail 
shops.  One  of  the  last  old  landmarks  to  go  was  the  Eden 
Musee,  a  wax- works  exhibition  (demolished  in  1916). 

At  70  W.  23rd  St.  are  a  Tablet  and  Bust  of  Edwin  Booth,  marking 
the  site  of  the  Booth  Theatre. 

Madison  Square  (PI.  I — B4),  at  the  intersection,  of 
Broadway,  Sth  ave.  and  23d  st.,  is  a  small  park  of  6.84  a.  It 
was  the  Potter's  Field  from  1794-7,  was  legally  opened  as  a 
park  in  1844-,  and  lighted  by  gas  in  1852. 

Near  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Madison  Square  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  William  H.  Seward,  Lincoln's  Secretary  of  State, 
bv  Randolph  Rogers;  at  the  S.  E.  corner,  a  statue  of  Roscoe 
Conkling  (1829-88),  by  /.  Q.  A.  Ward,  and  a  Drinking  Foun- 
tain by  Emma  Stebhins,  given  to  the  city  by  the  late  Catherine 
Lorillard  Wolfe.  The  park  also  contains  a  statue  of  Chester 
A.  Arthur,  by  Bissell.  At  the  N.  W.  corner  is  the  Statue 
of  Admiral  (David  Glasgoe)  Farragut  (1801-70),  by  Aug- 
ustus St.  Gaudens,  presented  to  the  city  in  1881  by  the  Far- 
ragut Memorial  Association. 

The  statue,  cast  in  bronze,  resta  upon  a  pedestal  of  North  River 
blue  stone,  from  designs  by  Stanford  White.  The  pedestal  is  flanked 
by  a  curving  wall  beneath  which  is  a  seat;  each  of  the  arms  are  formed 
by  the  curved  back  of  a  sea-fish.  Adjoining  the  pedestal  are  allegorical 
figures:  on  the  left,  Loyalty;  on  the  right,  Courage.  The  inscription 
on  the  right  win^  is  biographical;"  that  on  the  left  is  a  tribute  to  "the 
memory  of  a  danng  and  sagacious  commander  and  gentle,  great-souled 
man,  who  served  his  country  supremely  in  the  war  for  the  Union." 

The  buildings  on  the  £.  side  of  Madison  sq.,  the  Metropolitan 
Building,  Appellate  Court  and  Madison  Square  Garden,  are  described 
in  Sect.  V,  pp.  205-209. 

The  Worth  Monument,  at  the  juncture  of  5th  ave., 
Broadway,  and  23d  st.,  by  James   C.   Batter  son,   of   Quincy 


BROADWAY  NORTH  FROM  UNION  SQUARE     165 

granite,  51  feet  high,  was  erected  in  1857  in  honor  of  Major- 

General  Worth  (1794-1849),  who  distinguished  himself  in  the 

Mexican  war.     His  body  lies  beneath  the  monument. 

On  the  south  face  of  the  monument  is  a  hi^h  relief  of  Major- 
General  Worth,  in  bronze;  on  the  east  face,  cut  in  the  stone,  DucU 
Amor  Patriae:  and  on  the  west  face,  *'By  the  Corporation  of  the  City 
of  New  York,  1857 — Honor  the  Brave."  The  names  of  the  battles  in 
which  Worth  was  engaged  are  recorded  in  bands  around  the  obelisk. 

From  this  point  north  on  Broadway  hotels,  office  build- 
ings, theatres,  department  stores,  and  small  retail  shops  take 
the  place  of  the  "loft"  buildings  which  practically  monopolize 
it  further  south. 

At  24th  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  the  new  Albemarle  Building 
marks  the  site  of  the  Albemarle-Hoffman  Hotel,  demolished 
in  191 5.  On  the  north  side  of  West  25th  St.,  just  off  of 
Broadway,  is  Trinity  Chapel,  built  in  1856,  from  plans  by 
Richard  Upjohn.  It  is  a  brown  stone,  Gothic  structure,  and 
has  been  much  praised  for  its  fine  proportions.  It  was  the 
fourth  of  the  chapels  established  by  Trinity  Parish. 

On  the  ground  floor  of  the  recently  erected  office  build- 
ing, S.  E.  corner  of  26th  St.,  is  the  Delmartin  Cafi,  marking 
the  location  of  the  old  cafe,  first  of  Delmonico's  and  later  of 
the  Cafe  Martin.  Opposite,  at  the  S.  W.  corner,  the  St. 
James  Building  preserves  the  memory  of  the  old  St.  James 
Hotel ;  and  similarly  at  27th  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  the  new  Victoria 
Building  takes  its  name  from  a  hotel  recently  demolished. 

Between  28th  and  29th  Sts.,  on  the  W.  side,  is  an  entrance 

to  Proctor^s  Fifth  Avenue  Theatre,  the  main  entrance  being 

on  i88th  St. 

Here  in  1868  Apollo  Hall  was  fifst  opened.  Five  years  later  it  was 
transformed  into  the  New  Fifth  Avenue  Theatre,  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Augustin  Daly.  Among  the  famous  actors  who  have  played  here 
are  Edwin  Booth,  Clara  Morris,  Mary  Anderson,  Modjeska,  Salvini  and 
Eleanora  Duse.     It  is  now  a  popular  vaudeville  house. 

During  the  draft  riots  in  1863  this  block,  containing  then  the  Provost 
Marshal's  ofi|ce,  was  burned. 

At  29th  St.,  S.  E.  corner  is  Hotel  Breslin  (PI.  Ill— D4). 

On  the  N.  E.  corner  is  the  Gilscy  Building,  once  a  popular 

hotel.     On  the  N.  W.  corner  is  Weber^s  Theatre,  formerly 

Weber  and  Field's.     Daly's  Theatre  in  the  same  block  was 

one  of  the  first  up-town  flieatres  erected. 

It  was  first  opened  in  1867  as  Banvard's  Museum,  and  was  the  first 
building  erected  expressly  for  museum  purposes  in  New  York.  It  con- 
tained rooms  for  curiosities,  and  an  auditorium.  The  following  year 
George  Wood  became  the  manager,  and  it  was  known  as  Wood's  Musuem 
until  1877,  when  it  became  the  Broadway  Theatre.  September  7th,  1879, 
it  was  opened  as  Daly's  Theathe,  and  remained  the  home  of  one  of 
New  York's  most  famous  stock  companies  until  Augustin  Daly's  death 
in  Z900. 


i66  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  are  Shanley's  Restaurant 
and  the  Hofbrdu  Haus,  both  popular  for  after-theatre  suppers. 

At  30th  St.,  N.  E.  corner,  there  stood  until  recently  an- 
other famous  old  play-house,  Wallack's  Theatre,  the  second 
of  the  two  theatres  successively  owned  and  managed  by  Lester 
Wallack,  the  actor.  Nearly  opposite,  the  sixteen-story  Bijou. 
Building  marks  the  site  of  the  former  Bijou  Theatre,  long 
the  home  of  musical  comedy. 

Between  31st  and  32d  sts.,  on  the  east  side,  is  the /w/>^na/ 
Hotel.  In  the  bar-room  is  a  well-known  mural  painting. 
Bowling  in  Bowling  Green,  by  Edwin  A,  Abbey.  See  also 
Morning  in  the  Lap  of  Night,  by  Thomas  W.  Deming, 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  32d  St.  is  the  Hotel  Martinique, 
built  in  1897  from  plans  by  Henry  J.  Hardenburgh,  and  con- 
considerably  enlarged  in  191 1.    The  decorations  repay  a  visit. 

In  the  main  restaurant  are  four  panels  by  /.  Carroll  Beckwitk: 
(i)  Ronsafd;  (2)  Louis  XV;  (3)  Voltaire;  (4)  Maurice  de  Saxe.  Four 
panels  by  Irving  R.  Wiles,  representing  Court  Ladies  of  the  Time  of 
Louis  XIV.  Other  decorations  by  Charles  M.  Sheen  and  Charles  Y. 
Turner.  The  room  itself  is  modelled  after  the  Apollo  Room  in  the 
howvre. 

Betw.  33d  and  34th  sts.  is  the  25-story  *McAlpin  Hotel 
(PI.  Ill — C2),  one  of  the  largest,  newest,  and  most  beautiful 
of  New  York  hotels   (F.  M.  Andrews  and  Co.,  architects). 

The  exterior  matrial  is  brick  and  terra-cotta  and  a  large  part  of 
the  ground  floor  is  occupied  by  shops.  Witnin,  the  lobby  is  two  stories 
high  and  runs  from  the  33rd  st.  entrance  to  the  34th  st.  The  mezza- 
nine lounge  contains  26  tapestries  (from  the  Herter  looms)  illustrating 
the  city's  history.  The  Main  Dining  Room  is  in  gold;  the  men's  cafe  is 
panelled  in  Circassian  walnut;  and  the  Rathskeller  in  the  basement, 
with  a  remarkable  vaulted  ceiling  in  tile,  entered  by  heavy  iron  gates, 
is  decorated  with  a  *series  of  panels  depicting  the  commercial  history 
of  New  York  City  in  glazed  terra-cotta  tiles.  The  hotel  has  a  special 
Men's  Floor,  a  Women's  Floor,  and  a  "Silent  Floor"  for  ni^ht-workers 
who  sleep  in  the  daytime.  The  building  contains  7  m.  of  heating  appara- 
tus and  115  m.  of  electric  wiring. 

Special  features  of  this  hotel  include  a  fully  equipped  hospital 
physician  and  graduate  nurse;  Turkish,  electrical  and  hydrotherapeutic 
baths  for  men  under  charge  of  a  Carlsbad  graduate;  and  an  extensive 
swimming  pool  on  the  upper  floor.  Couriers,  shopping  guides,  and 
chaperons  are  furnished  upon  request,  and  transatlantic  steamers  met 
by  representative.  Rooms  may  be  reserved  by  wireless  at  expense  of 
the  management.      (For  rates,  see  p.  10;  for  restaurants,  p.  20.  "^ 

The   United  Service  Club  has  its  clubrooms  in  this  hotel. 

At  34th  St.  Broadway  crosses  6th  ave.,  with  its  elevated 
railway.  The  southern  triangle  of  land  thus  formed  is  named 
Greeley  Square.  It  contains  a  statue  of  Horace  Greeley,  by 
Alexander  Doyle,  the  joint  gift  of  a  Grand  Army  Post  and 
the  Typographical  Union  After  the  building  of  the  elevated 
road,  the  Greeley  figure,  jarred  by  the  vibrations,  tried  to  slide 


BROADWAY  NORTH  FROM  UNION  SQUARE     167 

off  its  base  and  had  to  be  fastened  on.  The  main  Hudson 
Tubes  entrance  is  here.  The  Pennsylvania  Terminal  is  one 
block  to  the  west  on  7th  ave.  The  northern  triangle  of  land 
is  called  Herald  Square,  and  contains  a  statue  of  William 
E.  Dodge,  a  famous  merchant  of  the  city.  It  was  executed  by 
/.  Q.  A.  Ward,  and  was  the  gift  of  New  York  merchants. 
Sight-Seeing  Cars  start  from  here   (p.  29), 

On  the  W.  side  of  Greeley  Square,  32d  to  33d  st.  is 
Gimbel's  Department  Store  (p.  75),  one  of  the  largest  and 
best  equipped  of  the  city's  modern  stores.  In  its  construction 
there  were  used  12,000  tons  of  steel,  5,000,000  bricks,  and 
30,000  tons  of  terra  cotta ;  the  windows  contain  100,000  sq  ft. 
of  plate  glass;  and  the  building  is  lighted  by  24,000  incan- 
descent lamps. 

On  the  same  side  of  Greeley  Square,  from  33d  to  34th 
St.  is  Saks,  another  department  store  (finished  articles  only; 
nothing  sold  by  the  yard)  ;  and  from  34th  to  35th  St.,  R.  H. 
Macy  &  Co.  On  the  E.  side  of  Herald  Square  is  the  20-story 
Marhridge  Building,  costing,  with  ground,  nearly  $3,000,000. 

On  the  N.  side  is  the  *Herald  Building  where  the  if  ^ro/rf 
(morning  paper)  and  the  Telegram  (evening  paper)  are 
printed. 

Architecturally,  it  is  an  adaptation  of  the  Palazzo  del 
Consiglio  at  Verona,  and  has  long  been  one  of  the  conspicuous 
structures  of  the  city.  Its  most  notable  single  feature  is 
the  elaborately  sculptured  bronze  clock,  which  surmounts  its 
southern  facade,  with  its  mechanical  figures  striking  the 
quarter  hours. 

The  design  consists  of  a  large  bell,  suspended  between  two  artizans, 
heroic  size.  The  figure  on  the  R.  swings  a  twenty-pound  hammer  a 
distance  of  two  feet,  the  figure  on  the  L.  has  a  four-foot  stroke  with 
a  forty-pound  hammer.  The  group  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  statue 
of  Minerva.  The  whole  clock  was  the  work  of  a  French  sculptor, 
Antonin  Jean  Carles,  and  the  Minerva  was  exhibited  at  the  Paris 
Salon  in  1894.  When  the  clock  was  installed  in  1895,  it  was  con- 
sidered an  innovation  to  have  a  clock  strike  by  electricity.  Another 
familiar  feature  is  the  row  of  bronze  owls  around  the  cornice,  which 
at  night  announce  the  time  by  winking  their  electric  eyes. 

The  presses  can  be  seen  through  the  ground-floor  windows  on  the 
Broadway  side.     The  largest  ones  start  at  midnight. 

To  the  right  of  main  entrance  is  a  bronze  memorial  tablet,  by  L. 
Bracony,  given  by  the  Italians  of  New  York  to  the  Herald  "which  by 
relating  the  plain  truth  about  the  Italo-Turkish  war,  vindicated  the 
honor  of  the  Italian  Army  and  Nation." 

Between  36th  and  37th,  W.  side,  is  the  Marlborough- 
Blenheim  Hotel  (p.  10.) 

At  38th  St.,  N.  E.  comer,  is  the  Knickerbocker  Theatre, 
Adjoining  it,  at  39th  St,  S.  E.  corner,  The  Casino, 

The  Metropolitan  Opera  House  (PI.  Ill — Ci)  occupies 


i68  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  block  between  39th  and  40th  Sts.,  opened  1883  and  rebuilt 
after  a  fire  in  1893.  For  the  history  of  the  MetropoHtan, 
prices  of  seats,  etc.,  see  p.  54. 

On  W.  40th  St.  between  Broadway  and  6th  ave.  are  two 
tall  office  buildings,  the  Wurlitzer  Building  on  the  north 
side  of  the  street,  and  the  World's  Tower  Building  on 
the  south. 

Opposite  the  Metropolitan  are  the  popular  restaurants 
Kaiserhof  (p.  23),  Lorher's  (p.  20),  and  Browne's  Chop 
House  (p-  22). 

At  40th  St.  is  the  Empire  Theatre. 

Between  41st  and  42d  Sts.,  W.  side,  is  a  curious  squat 
tower,  erected  to  exhibit  advertisements  but  which  proved 
a  commercial  and  financial  failure. 

At  42d  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  is  the  Knickerbocker  Hotel 

(p-  7)»  erected  by  the  late  Col.  John  Jacob  Astor  at  a  cost  of 

$4,500,000  (^Trowbridge  and  Livingston,  architects).    It  is  an 

elaborate    structure,    in    the    French    Renaissance    style,    and 

richly  decorated  with  marbles,  bronzes,  tapestries,  carvings,  etc. 

In  the  basement  is  an  English  grill  room  with  fine  oak  ceiling; 
the  decorations  are  copies  of  Rembrandt's  paintings,  by  H.  B.  Fuller. 
In  the  adjoining  bar-room  is  a  painting  by  Frederic  Remington.  The 
dining-room  on  the  main  floor  is  finished  in  Italian  marble  and  Caen 
stone,  with  a  copper  finished  ceiling  from  Fontainebleau,  and  is  hung 
with  tapestries  by  Streecken  and  Leefdael.     The  two  electric  fountains, 

Sold  Cupids  poised  on  balls  on  black  marble,  are  by  MacMonnies.  The 
ecorations  and  mural  paintings,  notably  The  Masque  of  Flora,  are  by 
James  Wall  Finn.  The  cafe  is  Louis  XVI,  in  white  and  gold;  and 
back  of  it  is  the  bar-room,  containing  Old  King  Cole,  a  *mural  painting 
by  Maxfield  Parrish.  On  the  third  floor  is  a  huge  banquet  room 
(Henri  II  style),  white,  blue  and  gold,  and  containing  600  chairs. 

Prices  high.  Much  patronized  by  the  wealthy  sporting  class.  This 
house  makes  a  specialty  of  caring  for  steamship  travelers;  reservations 
for  rooms  received  by  wireless  at  hotel's  expense;  representative  meets 
steamers. 

West,  on  42d  St.,  at  the  N.  W.  corner  of  7th  Ave.,  stands  what  was 
once  Hammerstein's  Victoria  Theatre,  lately  remodeled  and  rechristened 
the  Rialto,  a  high-class  motion  picture  theatre.  South  on  Seventh  Ave. 
west  side,  is  one  of  the  newer  hotels,  the  Hermitage  (mural  decora- 
tions  by  Louis  ValHant). 

Further  west,  on  the    south    side   of  42d  St.  (No.  214) 

stands   the  New  Amsterdam   Theatre    (Herts  and   Tallant, 

architects).    On  the  tall,  narrow  fagade  is  a  mass  of  sculpture, 

executed  by  George  Gray  Barnard.    The  figure  in  the  center 

of  the  arch  above  the  3d  story  is  a  personification  of  The 

Drama,  flanked  on  left  and  right  by  Pierrot   (representing 

Musical  Farce),  and  Cupid  (representing  Love  Comedy).   On 

either  side,  at  the  base  of  the  arch,  are  figures :  A  Knight  in 

full  armor,  and  a  female  figure  holding  distaff  and  a  scroll. 

In   the  main  foyer  are  a   series  of   Relief  Panels,   by   R.   Hinton 

Perry,  representing  "Scenes  from  Classic  Drama."    They  form  a  friexe 


BROADWAY  NORTH  FROM  UNION  SQUARE     169 

around  the  foyer,  and  the  subjects,  beginning  on  the  left  wall,  are:  (i) 
Macbeth;  (2)  Richard  III;  (3)  Hamlet;  (4)  As  You  Like  It;  (5)  Mid- 
summer  Night's  Dream;  (6)  (lunette:  south  end  of  lobby)  Ancient 
Drama;  (7)  (west  wall)  Rheingold;  (8)  Siegfried;  (9)  Walkyrie;  (10) 
Gotterdammerung;  (11)  Another  scene  from  Rheingold;  (la)  (over 
entrance)   Faust. 

In  the  small  foyer  beyond  there  are  two  fine  reliefs  of  Ancient 
New  Amsterdam  and  The  Modem  City,  also  a  symbolic  panel,  reprc- 
gentative  of  Progress,  filling  the  architrave  over  the  entrance  door. 

In  the  arch  above  the  stage,  in  the  auditorium,  there  is  a  great 

Sanel  (18  by  45  ft.)  designed  by  the  late  Robert  Blum  and  carried  out 
y  A,  B.  Wenzel.  The  central  figure  represents  Poetry,  with  crowned 
Tradition  on  her  left,  and  on  the  right  Truth,  with  Falsehood  trodden 
under  foot. 

Directly  opposite  the  New  Amsterdam  is  the  Republic 
Theatre,  No.  209-11  (see  p.  55),  and  next  to  it,  No.  213, 
the  Lyric  (see  p.  55).  On  the  south  side,  No.  200-24,  rises 
the  twenty-four  story  white  shaft  of  the  Candler  Building, 
with  the  entrance  to  the  C.  &  H.  Theatre  placed  inconspicu- 
ously in  the  western  wing.  (The  architects  of  the  Candler 
Building  were  Willauer,  Shape  &  B ready;  the  theatre  was 
designed  by  Thomas  W.  Lamb,) 

Just  beyond  (No.  226)  is  Murray* s,  one  of  New  York's 
unique  show-place  restaurants.  It  was  originally  designed  as 
a  public  school,  by  McKim,  Mead  and  White;  but  the  plans 
proving  unsuccessful  were  remodeled  by  Henry  Erkins.  The 
earlier  home  of  Murray's  yr^s  beneath  the  sidewalk  at  the 

N.  W.  corner  of  Broadway  and  34th  St. 

The  first  two  stories  of  the  fagade  of  the  presient  building  are  of 
Portland  cement  and  designed  in  French  Renaissance  as  a  replica  of  the 
ancient  hotel  of  Cardinal  de  Rohan,  Paris  (originally  designed  by 
Robert  Lorain).  All  the  decorative  features  are  reproductions  of 
classic  masterpieces  in  the  Louvre,  the  Vatican,  etc.  Over  the  entrance 
door,  are  The  Horses  of  the  Sun,  from  the  original  by  Lorain  (Hotel  de 
Rohan).  On  the  sides  of  the  entrance  are  six  panels  from  originals  by 
Jean  Goiijon  in  the  Fontaine  des  Innocents,  Paris. 

The  interior  court  is  the  Roman  Garden,  decorated  to  carry  out 
the  illusion  of  an  open-air  garden,  with  electric  stars  twinkling  over- 
head. In  the  S.  W.  corner  is  one-quarter  of  a  circular  Greek  temple, 
built  against  mirrored  walls,  whose  quadrupled  reflection  completes  the 
temple  and  gives  the  illusion  of  great  space.  There  is  a  balcony 
divided  into  two  rooms,  one  Roman,  the  other  Assyrian.  On  the  floor 
above  is  the  Eeyptian  Room.  The  mural  paintings  are  by  IV.  De  L. 
Dodge,  James  Klar  and  Meixeur. 

Adjoining  Murray's  on  the  west  is  the  Liberty  Theatre 
(see  p.  56) ;  in  the  lobby  are  some  interesting  portraits : 
Richard  Mansfield  as  "Baron  Chevrial,"  by  Louis  Kronberg; 
John  McCullough  as  "Virginius,"  by  Proctor;  Ernst  Possert, 
by  Theodor  von  Leiden.  Next  is  the  Eltinge  Theatre  (see  p. 
56),  facing  the  uninteresting  Evangelical  Lutheran  St. 
Luke's  Church.  No.  254  is  the  Harris  Theatre  (p.  56)  ; 
and  No.  260,  the  American  Theatre  and  Roof  Garden  (see  p. 
58). 


170  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Returning  to  Broadway,  we  pass  on  the  E.  side  betw.  426 

and  43d  sts.,  the  main  lobby  of  Cohan's  Theatre   (p.  56). 

Note  the  ornate  vaulted  ceiling,  the  dado  of  Benson  marble,  and 
the  frieze  of  mural  paintings,  giving  the  history  of  the  Four  Cohans. 
The  chief  facade  is  on  43d  St.,  a  combination  of  terra  cotta,  iron  and 
bronze  in  modern  transitional  Romanesque  style.  In  the  auditorium  is 
another  frieze,  showing  George  M.  Cohan's  successes  in  musical  comedy 
and  drama. 

At  43d  St.  Broadway  intersects  7th  ave.,  and  in  the  triangle 
of  land  formed  by  the  three  streets,  rises  the  28-story  *Times 
Building,  designed  by  Eidlits  and  Mackenzie.  It  is  built  of 
terra  cotta  and  pink  granite.  Its  solution  of  a  unique  engi- 
neering problem  is  noteworthy:  part  of  the  building  hangs 
over    the    Subway,    which    cuts   out   parts   of    its   basement. 

The  open  space  north  of  the  building  is  called  Times 
Square,  or  Longacre  Square  (a  name  due  to  its  having  been 
compared  to  London's  Longacre  Street  when  about  1872  the 
square  became  the  center  of  New  York's  carriage  business.) 
A  fine  view  of  the  illuminations  of  Broadway  can  be  obtained 
from  here  in  the  evening.  This  portion  of  Broadway  is 
the  heart  of  the  theatrical  district,  and  the  brilliant  night 
lighting  has  given  it  its  cognomen,  "The  Great  White  Way." 

Betw.  43d  and  44th  st.,  W.  side,  is  the  Putnam  Building, 
containing  Shanley's  Restaurant  (p.  21)  and  many  the- 
atrical offices.  A  Tablet  over  doorway  at  1493-1505,  W.  side, 
was  placed  by  Sons  of  Revolution  to  commemorate  the  meet- 
ing of  Washington  and  Putnam,  Sept.  15,  1776,  the  day 
preceding  the  Battle  of ■  Harlem   (p.  xxiii). 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  43d  st.  is  Wallick's  Hotel 
(formerly  the  Cadillac  and,  before  that,  popular  for  many 
years  as  Barrett  House)  ;  and  at  the  S.  E.  corner  of  44th, 
the  Claridge  Hotel,  built  by  Rector  and  for  a  time  called 
the  Hotel  Rector.  It  is  a  fifteen-story  structure  of  Bedford 
stone  and  red  Flemish  brick,  with  a  curving  French  mansard 
roof  (1910:  D.  H.  Burnham,  architect).  Its  various  dining- 
rooms  when  first  equipped,  had  16,000  pieces  of  silverware, 
and  in  the  large  banquet  room  550  pieces  of  gold  plate. 
Rector,  who  is  a  popular  restaurateur,  failed  here  and  the 
hotel  changed  hands  and  was  rechristened.  Rector  has  a 
new  restaurant  at  1600  Broadway. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Broadway,  opposite  the  Hotel  Astor 
and  occupying  the  entire  avenue  block,  is  a  group  of  theatres 
and  amusement  halls,  erected  by  Oscar  Hamm^rstein  as  one 
of  his  most  ambitious  enterprises  and  known  as  the  Olympia. 
At  present  it  contains  the  Criterion  Theatre  (44th  st.  corner) 
and  the  N'ew  York  Theatre   (45th  st.  corner). 


BROADWAY  NORTH  FROM  UNION  SQUARE     171 

As  originally  planned,  it  comprised  a  large  music  hall,  a  concert 
hall,  a  theatre,  a  roof-garden,  an  oriental  cafe  and  smoking  room,  a 
billiard  room,  lounging  room  and  cloak  rooms,  all  accessible  for  50c. 
But  the  enterprise  soon  went  to  pieces;  in  1899  the  music  hall  became 

the  New  York  Theatre;  the  auditorium  at  the  S.  corner  underwent 
several    changes    of    management    and    in    recent    years    has    been    the 

I^Uagraph,  one  of  the  first  high^class  motion  picture  houses.  In  191 6  it 
reopened  as  a  theatre,  with  a  series  of  Shakespearian  revivals. 

Betw.  44th  and  45th  sts.,  on  the  W.  side,  is  the  *Hotel 
AsTOR  (PI.  IV — B3),  erected  by  Wm.  Waldorf,  Astor,  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  elaborate  hotels,  especially  used  for  con- 
ventions, balls  and  social  affairs.  It  is  a  French  Renaissance 
structure,  o^  red  brick  and  limestone,  with  a  mansard  of 
green  slate  and  copper  {Clinton  and  Russell,  architects). 

Through  the  main  entrance  on  the  Broadway  side  we  enter  the 
lobby,  a  spacious  colonnade  22  ft.  high,  in  marble  and  gold.  It  contains 
four  panels  by  William  De  Leftwicn  Dodge,  representing  Ancient  and 
Modern  New  York.  To  the  right  of  the  lobby  arc  the  Ladies*  Restau- 
rant, the  Ladies'  Lobby  (Louis  XIV),  the  Women's  Reading  Room 
(Louis  XIV).  The  44th  St.  side  is  the  bachelors'  side  and  contains 
the  Hunting  Room  (German  Renaissance  of  about  1560),  surrounded 
by  a  frieze  seven  feet  high,  composed  of  hunting  scenes  in  bold  relief. 
The  Banquet  Hall,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  city,  is  also  on  this  floor. 
Adjoining  are  an,  Elizabethan  Men's  Lounging  Room,  a  Flemish  Bar- 
room, a  Pompeiian  billiard  room,  and  an  Italian  garden  or  "Oran^erie." 
On  the  mezzanine  floor,  are  the  Palm  Garden,  the  Japanese  Midway, 
and  the  Chinese  and  East  Indian  Alcoves. 

The  9th  floor  is  devoted  to  private  dining  rooms.  Another  Banquet 
Hall  (Louis  XV  style)  measures  50  by  85  ft.  On  the  ceiling  are  three 
panels  by  Emens  and  Unitt.  The  College  Hall,  intended  for  college 
reunions  and  society  dinners,  is  colonial  in  type;  the  wall  is  divided 
into  panels  by^  Ionic  pilasters,  and  these  panels  contain  14  pictures  by 
A.  p.  -Rahm,  illustrating  the  various  College  Sports.  There  are  also  a 
series  of  Art  Nouveau  rooms,  an  Oriental  Room,  and  three  rooms 
designed  to  represent  a  yacht's  cabin.  They  contain  a  series  of 
window  pictures  by  Carlton  T,  Chapman,  representing  a  cruise  from 
New  York  to  Larchmont. 

/-In  the  basement  are  the  Old  New  York  Lobby,  the  American 
Grill  Room,  and  the  great  kitchen.  A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the 
wine  cellar,  the  lobby,  to  which  is  guarded  by  two  statues  representing 
monks:  on  the  one  hand  "Bruder  Kellermeister,"  with  the  cellar  keys 
and  a  huge  tankard;  and  on  the  other,  "Bruder  Kuchenmeister,"  with 
a  basket  full  of  garden  delicacies.  The  wine  cellar  itself  is  a  large 
hall  copied  from  the  famous  cellars  at  Eberbach-on-the-Rhine.  Note 
the  beautiful  hand-carving  on  the  imported  German  wine  casks. 

The  hotel  possesses  a  collection  of  pictures  and  souvenirs  of  early  New 
York,  and  a  painting  showing  the  house  of  Medcef  Eden,  an  English- 
man who  owned  the  property  originally.  The  grillroom  is  a  museum  of 
American  Indian  relics  collected  with  the  assistance  of  the  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History  and  The  Ethnological  Bureau  in  Washing- 
ton, including  implements,  garments,  weapons,  pictures,  busts,  baskets, 
animal  heads,  trophies,  masks,  dishes  etc.  of  eight  types  of  Indians 
living  from  Alaska  to  Mexico. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  45th  st.  is  the  Astor  Theatre.  W.  on 
45th  St.  is  the  Booth  Theatre,  erected  in  1913,  from  designs 
by  Henry  B,  Herts  (p.  57).  E.  on  the  N.  side  of  45th  st. 
are    the    Lyceum    Theatre,    the    Tokio    (an    elaborate    show 


172  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

restaurant  with  Oriental  cooking),  the  St,  James  Hotel 
(No.  109)  and  at  No.  107,  the  club-house  of  the  Friars,  an 
actors'  clubs.  Diagonally  opposite  is  the  Palace  Theatre. 
At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  46th  st.  stands  the  Gaiety  Theatre. 
E.  on  the  side-street,  N.  side,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  the 
Virgin,  the  most  ritualistic  of  Episcopal  churches  in  New 
York. 

It  was  organized  in  x868  and  its  earlier  church  structure  was  at 
aa8  W.  4Sth  st.  The  present  edifice  extends  all  the  way  through  the 
block  to  47th  St.  Note  the  sculptures  over  the  entrance  door  by  /. 
Massey  Rhind.  The  Lady  Chapel  contains  two  mural  paintings.  The 
Magnificat  and  The  Epiphany,  by  Elliott  DtUngerfield    (b   1859). 

W.  on  46th  St.  is  the  Fulton  Theatre,  with  a  highly 
ornamental  fagade  in  polychrome  terra  cotta.  It  was  earlier 
known  as  the  Folies-Bergere. 

The  mural  paintinn  and  other  decorations  were  executed  by 
William  De  Ltftwick  Dodge  (b.  1867).  Note  especially  the  long, 
narrow  panel,   extending  almost  the  whole  length   01   the  facade.   Just 

below  the  cornice,  represnting  all  the  stock  characters  in  drama  crowding 

forward  to  worship  at  the  throne  of   Folies-Bergere. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Broadway,  at  the  cor.  of  46th  st, 
is  the  Globe  Theatre,  erected  in  19 10,  from  designs  by  Carrkre 
and  Hastings.  At  47th  st,  S.  E.  cor,  is  Keith's  Palace  Theatre 
(1913;  Kir  chaff  and  Rose,  architects).  At  the  K.  E.  cor. 
is  the  Columbia  Theatre;  it  contains  a  mural  painting  above 
the  proscenium,  by  Arthur  Thomas  (who  did  the  murals  in 
the  Schwab  residence).  The  northern  triangle  formed  by 
the  intersection  of  Seventh  avei  and  Broadway  is  OQCupted 
by  the  Pekin  Restaurant,  another  show-place  similar  to  the 
Tokio.  Opposite,  near  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Broadway  and  47th 
St.,  is  the  Strand  Theatre,  built  in  1913,  from  designs  by 
Thomas  IV.  Lamb,  and  now  used  as  a  high-grade  moiion 
picture  house. 

In  the  construction  of  this  really  beautiful  playhouse  no  expenses 
were  spared,  and  it  merits  a  careful  study.  Note  especially 
the  desim  of  the  foyer  and  staircases.  The  interior  decorations  are 
by   O.   H.    Bauer.     The   mural   paintinjg;   above   the   proscenium    repre- 


the  desim  of  the   foyer   and   staircases.     The   interior  decorations  are 

1.   n.    Bauer.     The   mural   painting 
sents   The   Dreams   of    Life;    the   panels    on   the    side   walls   symbolize 


The   Senses.      In   the   lobby  are  three   ceiling  panels   and   one   lunette, 
all  allegorical,  by   V.   Maragliotti. 

E.  on  47th  St.  are  a  number  of  quiet  family  and  bachelor 
hotels:  on  the  N.  side,  the  Longacre,  New  Victoria  and 
Flanders;  on  the  S.  the  Somerset  and  the  Felix-Portland. 

At  48th  st,  N.  E.  cor.,  stands  Rector's,  a  ten-story  build- 
ing of  brick  and  limestone,  housing  the  famous  restaurant 
on  the  first  and  second  floors.  The  upper  stories  are  mainly 
occupied  by  the  New  York  offices  of  many  of  the  leading 
moving  picture  companies,  among  others  the  Vitagraph,  Selig, 
Lubin,  Essanay  and  Universal  Films  Company. 


BROADWAY  NORTH  FROM  UNION  SQUARE     173 

W.  on  48th  St.  is  the  Longacre  Theatre,  erected  in  1913 
(Henry  B.  Herts,  architect).  To  the  E.,  upper  side  are  the 
Forty-eighth  Street  Theatre  and  the  Playhouse  (built  191 1 ; 
two  allegorical  lunettes  by  Arthur  Crisp)  ;  lower  side,  the 
Cort  Theatre. 

At  49th  St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  ChurchilVs  restaurant;  N.  W. 
cor.,  Maurice  Daly's  Billiard  and  Pool  Rooms,  one  of  the 
oldest  and  best  known  establishments  in  the  city.  From  this 
point  northward  to  approximately  66th  st  is  the  section 
popularly  known  as  "Automobile  Row,"  comprising  the  New 
York  sales  rooms  of  a  majority  of  the  leading  automobile 
manufacturers,  tire  makers  and  dealers  in  special  automobile 
parts  or  accessories. 

At  50th  St.,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Winter  Garden  (Albert 
Swasey,  architect).  All  the  interior  decorations  are  by  Wm. 
De  L,  Dodge,  At  Broadway  and  54th  st.  is  the  Cumberland 
Hotel;  E.  on  54th  st.  is  the  Albemarle.  At  55th  st,  S.  E. 
cor.,  is  the  Hotel  Woodzvard,  and  opposite,  N.  E.  cor.,  the 
Sonoma  Hotel. 

The  Broadway  Tabernacle,  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of  Broad- 
way and  56th  street,  is  the  leading  Congregational  Church  in 
Manhattan.  Its  earlier  edifice  was  long  a  familiar  landmark 
at  Sixth  avenue  and  34th  street  (now  occupied  by  the  Mar- 
bridge  Building),  and  its  former  pastor.  Dr.  William  Taylor, 
was  one  of  the  most  noted  preachers  in  the  city.  The  new 
structure  was  erected  in  1905. 

In  style  it  is  a  free  version  of  late  French  Gothic;  the  materials 
are  cream-white  brick  and  terra-cotta  finishings.  Seating  capacity, 
1500.  In  the  massive,  tower-like  structure  at  the  rear  are  the  parish 
house,  the  Bible-school  and  the  Taylor  Memorial  Chapel.  The 
Bible-school  is  the  most  elaborate  in  Manhattan,  having  a  large  cen- 
tral hall  and  twelve  spacious  class  rooms.  {Barney  and  Chapman, 
architects.) 

At  the  S.  E.  eor.  of  Broadway  and  58th  st.  is  the  lofty 

building  of  the  United  States  Rubber  Company,  the  oldest 

manufacturers  of  rubber  goods  in  America.  ' 

Various  relics  connected  with  the  company's  history  may  be  seen 
upon  request,  and  are  sometimes  exhibited  in  the  windows  on  the 
Broadway  side.  They  include  a  portrait  of  Charles  Goodyear,  inventor 
of  vulcanized  rubber  (painted  on  hard  rubber,  by  G.  P.  A.  Healy  of 
Boston);  a  walking  cane  and  a  large  desk,  both  of  hard  rubber,  the 
property  of  Mr.  Goodyear  (the  desk  was  exhibited  at  the  Crystal  Palace, 
London,  in  185 1);  also  several  autograph  letters  and  other  documents 
giving  the  details  of  the  transactions  through  which  Ford  &  Co.,  acquired 
in  1844  all  rights  to  the  Goodyear  patent  process  (James  B.  Ford, 
director  of  the  present  company  being  the  son  of  the  founder  of  the 
original  Ford  &  Co.) 

At  59th  St.  Broadway  intersects  8th  ave.  at  the  S.  W. 
corner  of  Central  Park. 


174  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  open  space  is  called  Columbus  Circxe.  In  the  center 
stands  the  Columbus  Monument,  by  Gaetano  Russo,  erected 
1892,  the  400th  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  America. 

The  monument  itself  is  77  ft.  high  and  consists  of  a  monumental 
shaft  of  granite  resting  on  a  rectangular  pedestal  and  surmounted  by 
a  marble  statue,  heroic  size.  In  front  of  the  pedestal  is  a  winged 
figure  of  a  youth  studying  a  terrestrial  ^lobe.  Below,  on  S.  facade  of 
pedestal,  is  a  bronze  tablet  in  high  rehef,  depicting  The  Landing  ot 
Columbus;  a  companion  tablet  on  N.  fagade,  represents  Columbus 
leaving  Spain.     This  monument  was  the  gift  of  American  Italians. 

S.  of  59th  St.  on  the  circle,  is  the  Park  Theatre,  and  at 
8th  ave.  is  Post's  Grand  Circle  Cafi  and  Restaurant.  Reisen- 
Weber's  Restaurant  is  on  8th  ave.,  at  58th  st.  On  the  W. 
side,  2d  floor  Far  East  Garden,  excellent  Chinese  restaurant. 
Ladies  unattended  find  it  very  satisfactory. 

Facing  the  Circle,  at  the  Pioneers'  Gate  to  the  Park, 
is  the  ^National  Maine  Monument,  erected  to  the  memory 
of  the  naval  officers  and  men  who  lost  their  lives  on  the 
Battleship  Maine,  sunk  in  Havana  Harbor,  Feb.  15th,  1898. 
(H.  Magonigle,  architect;  Attillio  Piccirilli,  sculptor). 

This  monument,  rising  to  a  height  of  44  ft.,  consists  mainly  of  a 
pylon  flanked  by  two  colossal  groups,  representing  respectively  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts.  In  front,  facing  the  Circle  is  another 
group  of  sculptures,  expressing  the  ante-bellum  state  of  mind: 
Courage  awaiting  the  Flight  of  Peace,  and  Fortitude  supporting  the 
feeble.  A  corresponding  group,  facing  the  park,  represents  the  post- 
bellum  idea:  Justice  receiving  back  the  sword  which  she  has  entrusted 
to  the  Genius  of  War,  and  History  recording  its  deeds.  The  pedestal 
and  carvines  are  of  Craig  dark  pink  Knoxville  marble;  the  lower 
courses  and  the  basins  are  of  pink  Milford  granite.  The  whole  is 
surmounted  by  a  group  representing  Columbia  Triumphant,  in  bronxe, 
from  the  guns  recovered  from  the  sunken  Maine.  Total  cost,  approxi- 
mately $175,000,   contributed   by  more  than  one  million  persons. 

II.     Fifth  Avenue  from  Washington  Square  to 

Forty-second  Street 
A.    Washington  Square 

Although  a  few  blocks  of  5th  ave.  lie  below  14th  st.,  the 
avenue  is  distinctly  an  uptown  boulevard.    It  starts  at 

Washington  Square  (PI.  I — B5)  a  park  containing  about 
9?/^  acres,  of  which  6j^  acres  were  at  one  time  (1797-1823) 
the  Potter's  Field,  having  been  acquired  by  the  City  in  con- 
sequence of  an  epidemic  of  yellow  fever.  More  than  100,000 
bodies  were  buried  here.  The  site  was  also  used  for  the 
town  gallows.  Rose  Butler,  a  young  negress,  was  hanged 
here,  July,  1819,  near  the  site  of  the  present  Washington 
Arch,  before  a  large  crowd,  including  many  children.  The 
square  was  made  into  a  park  in  1827  and  improved  in  1870; 
used  for  a  training  ground  and  camp  for  volunteer  soldiers 
during  the  Civil  War. 


FIFTH  AVE.  FROM  WASHINGTON  SQ.  175 

The  white  marble  *Washington  Arch  (1890-2),  de- 
signed by  Stanford  White,  was  erected  in  commemoration  of 
Washington's  inauguration.  The  cost,  $128,000,  was  defrayed 
by  public  subscription. 

It  was  originally  a  temporary  structure,  the  expense  of  which  was 
defrayed  by  Wm.  Rhinelander  Stewart  and  other  residents  of  Wash- 
ington Sq.,  for  the  centennial  celebration  of  Washington's  Inaugura- 
tion as  President  (April  30th  and  May  ist,  1889).  The  temporary 
structure  was  so  much  admired,  that  steps  were  taken  to  make  it 
permanent.  The  temporary  arch  reached  from  cor.  to  cor.  across  5th 
Ave.,  opposite  the  Park.  The  permanent  structure  stands  50  ft.  S.  of 
the  Ave.;  its  dimensions  are  86  ft.  high,  with  a  span  30  ft.  wide;  width 
of  piers  10  ft  each. 

Recently  (May,  19 16)  two  sculptured  groups  have  been  added  to 
the  N.  fagade  of  the  arch,  one  on  each  flank.  The  central  figure  of 
each  is  W^ashington,  the  one  in  military,  the  other  in  civilian  costume, 
to  R.  "and  L.  are  symbolic  female  figures  in  classic  drapery.  All  figures 
are  of   heroic  size.      (H.   A.   MacNiel,   artist.) 

The  statue  of  Garibaldi,  by  Giovanni  Turini,  was  presented  in 
1 888  by  the  Italian  residents.  To  the  south  of  the  park  lies  one  of  the 
Italian  districts  of  the  city.  The  bust  of  Alexander  Holley,  who  intro- 
duced into  America  and  greatly  improved  the  Bessemer  process,  was 
presented  in  1890  by  the  Engineers  of  Europe  and  America.  (7.  Q.  A. 
Ward,  sculptor,)  On  the  S.  Side  of  the  square  are  old  houses,  many 
of  which  are  now  studios. 

At  the  W.  cor.  of  Thompson  st.  is  the  Judson  Memorial 
Baptist  Church,  a  Greco-Romanesque  structure  of  buff  brick, 
flanked  on  the  W.  by  a  conspicuous  campanile.  It  was  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $450,000  {McKim,  Mead  &  White,  architects). 

This  church  succeeds  the  old  Berean  Baptist  Church,  organized  in 
1838,  on  Downing  st.  It  is  a  meanorial  to  the  Rev.  Dr.  Adoniram 
Judson,  the  first  American  foreign  missionary.  The  present  building 
comprises  a  Sunday  School,  a  Day  School,  Young  Men's  Social  Room, 
Reading  Room  and  Library.  The  Campanile  is  structurally  part  of  the 
Judson  Hotel,  immediately  adjoining  the  church  on  the  W.,  carrying 
out  the  same  general  architctural  scheme.  The  late  Frank  Norris,  the 
novelist,  at  one  time  occupied  rooms  in  this  tower.  The  revenue  ^rom 
the  Judson  Hotel  supports  a  Children's  Home  and  other  charities. 

On  the  E.  Side  is  the  New  York  University  Buildin^;, 
containing  on  the  upper  floors,  the  schools  of  Law,  Pedagogy, 
Commerce,  etc.  The  main  buildings  are  at  Fordham  (p.  360). 
The  lower  floors  are  occupied  by  the  American  Book  Co. 

The  present  building,  erected  1894-95,  occupies  the  site  of  the 
original  (jothic  structure,  built  in  1832-35,  which  for  over  60  years 
contained  all  the  departments  of  the  university,  and  also  rented  offices 
and  studios.  It  was  here  that  Samuel  F,  B.  Morse  painted  and  experi- 
mented with  his  telegraphic  instruments,  and  here,  also,  Colt  invented 
the  revolver,  and  Prof.  John  IV.  Draper  (181 1-82),  wrote  his  "History 
of  the  Intellectual  Development  of  Europe,"  and  did  much  to  perfect 
DaQuerre's  photographic  process.  It  was  in  the  old  University  building 
tl»t  Theodore  IVinthrop  laid  the  scene  of  his  powerful  novel,  "Cecil 
Dreeme."  On  the  N.  side  of  the  present  building  is  a  memorial  tablet 
to  Adam  Roelantsen,  and  other  early  New  York  school -masters. 


176  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  old  University  building  was  the  cause,  in  1834,  of  the  "Stone- 
cutters' Riot/'  when  the  angry  stone-masons  of  New  York  paraded  to 
the  building,  then  in  the  course  of  erection,  as  a  protest  against  the  use 
of  stone  cut  by  Sing  Sing  convicts.  The  7th  Regiment  had  to  be  called 
out  to  disperse  them. 

The  N.  Side  is  lined  with  charming  old  brick  residences  many  of 
which  are  still  occupied  by  well-known  families. 

On  the  W.  Side  are  apartment  houses  and  Hotel  Holley  (p.  8). 

B.    Lower  Fifth  Avenue 

Just  above  Washington  Square,  to  the  E.  of  5th  ave.,  is 
Washington  Mews,  an  alley  once  occupied  by  the  stables  be- 
longing to  the  houses  fronting  on  Washington  sq.  and  8th  st. ; 
and  to  the  W.  of  the  avenue,  but  entered  from  Macdougal 

St.  is  Macdougal  alley. 

In  both  streets  the  stables  have  been  turned  into  studios.  This 
section  of  the  city,  popular  with  artists,  is  sometimes  compared  to  the 
Latin  Quarter  of  Paris.  Much  of  this  property  is  leasehold  from  the 
Sailors'  Snug  Harbor  corporation  which  is  now  (19 16)  remodeling  the 
block  N.  of  Washington  Mews  into  artists' .  dwellings  on  a  compre- 
hensive plan. 

The  character  of  Fifth  Avenue  is  changing  constantly. 
From  Washington  Square  to  12th  st.  some  of  the  old  houses 
remain,  remodeled  for  the  most  part  into  boarding  houses 
or  apartments.  In  some  of  the  side  streets,  like  W.  loth, 
W.  nth,  etc.,  many  houses  remain  unaltered.  This  neighbor- 
hood to  the  west  of  the  avenue  is  still  familiarly  known  as 
"Greenwich  Village."  From  12th  st.  to  Madison  Square 
the  avenue  is  lined  with  loft  buildings.  At  noon  the 
employees  from  the  garment  factories  in  these  lofts  stroll 
up  and  down  the  avenue,  rendering  the  sidewalks  almost 
impassable.  A  trip  through  here  between  12th  and  23d  sts. 
g^ives  a  suggestion  of  the  extent  of  the  garment  trade  and  of 
the  foreign  element  employed  therein.  From  Madison  Square 
to  the  Plaza,  the  old  houses  have  been  largely  replaced  by 
fashionable  shops.  The  merchandise  displayed  in  the  win- 
dows is  imported  from  all  over  the  world.  The  last  of  the 
afternoon,  especially  in  winter,  this  section  becomes  a  show 
place.  The  showily  dressed  women,  perfectly  tailored  men, 
and  prize  dogs,  on  foot  and  in  automobiles,  are  well  worth 
seeing.  From  the  Plaza  to  Carnegie's  house  at  90th  st., 
Central  Park  forms  the  west  side  of  the  street,  while  to 
the  east  extends  a  series  of  palatial  residences.  The  side 
streets  also  contain  beautiful  houses.  From  112th  st.  to 
Mount  Morris  Park  is  a  dreary  stretch  of  better-class  tene- 
ments.   These  five  sections  present  widely  diverse  aspects. 

At  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Washington  square  and  5th 
ave.  is  the  Rhinelander  House.  Opposite,  on  the  N.  E.  corner, 
is  the  Delano  residence.    Immediately  N.,  at  No.  i  5th  ave.. 


FIFTH  AVE.  FROM  WASHINGTON  SQ.  I77 

is  a  spacious  red-brick  dwelling,  with  some  interesting  his- 
torical associations.  Here,  for  some  years  before  and  after 
the  Civil  War,  was  the  Misses  Green's  School  for  Girls. 

This  school,  one  of  the  most  select  and  fashionable  institutions 
of  the  period,  was  conducted  by  the  sisters  of  Andrew  H.  Green,  '*the 
father  of  Greater  New  York."  Later,  the  school  was  taken  over  by  the 
Misses  Graham.  Among  the  pupils  were  Fanny  and  Jenilie  Jerome 
(the  latter  is  now  Lady  Randolph  Churchill,  mother  of  Winston  Churchill, 
First  Lord  of  the  British  Admiralty).  The  school's  staff  of  teachers, 
under  the  Misses  Green,  included  the  late  John  Bigelow,  Professor  of 
Botany,  whom  the  young  girls  of  Washington  square  pronounced  "so 
handsome";  also  Hon.  Elihu  Root,  ex-Secretary  of  State.  The  Graham 
School  is  now  at  42  Riverside  Drive. 

No.  3  5th  ave.,  former  residence  of  the  Comtesse  Leary. 

At  8th  St.  N.  E.  corner,  is  the  Brevoort  Hotel    (p.  8), 

standing  almost  exactly  at  the  S.  W.  corner  of  the  old  Hen- 

drick  Brevoort  Farm. 

The  founder  of  the  family,  from  which  the  Hotel  is  named,  was 
Hgndrick  Van  Brevoort,  Constable  and  Overseer  of  Haarlem,  who 
later  removed  to  New  York,  and  became  an  Alderman  (170^-13).  His 
farm  extended  northeasterly  to  about  14th  st.  and  4th  ave. 

At  No.  12  W.  8th  St.  are  the  Chesterwood  studios  of 
Daniel  Chester  French,  the  sculptor.  No.  33  (formerly  105 
Clinton  PI.),  facing  Macdougal  st,  was  once  the  home  of 
Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich. 

Here  in  the  third  story  back  hall  room  Aldrich  lived  as  a  clerk, 
and  wrote  his  "Ballad  of  Babie  Bell."  Here  also  his  friend,  Fitz 
James  O'Brien  (1826-62),  wrote  "The  Diamond  Lens,"  one  of  the 
most  famous  of  American  short  stories.  The  house  still  has  the 
carved  outer  door  illustrated  in  Aldrich's  biography. 

At  9th  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  No.  21,  is  the  former  residence 
of  Samuel  Clemens  (Mark  Twain) ;  on  the  N.  E.  corner, 
the  former  residence  of  Maj.-Gen.  Daniel  Sickles, 

The  dwelling  at  the  N.  W.  corner  of  9th  st.,  now  occupied 

by  Mr.  Charles  de  Rham,  was  formerly  the  residence  of  Henry 

Brevoort,  grandfather  of   James   Renwick,   architect  of   St. 

Patrick^s  Cathedral  (p.  199). 

This  house  was  the  scene  of  New  York's  first  masked  ball,  held 
in  1840.  One  of  the  guests  was  the  daughter  of  Anthony  Barclay, 
the  British  Consul.  Nothwithstanding  the  opposition  of  her  parents,  she 
had  given  her  heart  to  a  young  South  Carolinian  named  Burgwyne. 
She  attended  the  ball  dressed  as  Lalla  Rookh,  and  he  as  Feramorst. 
At  4:00  o'clock  in  the  morning  they  stole  away  and  were  married, 
still  wearing  their  masquerade.  The  resulting  scandal  put  this  form 
of  "imported  amusement    under  a  ban  for  many  years. 

The  building  at  loth  St.,  N.  E.  corner,  is  the  Grosvenor 
apartment  house.  The  brownstone  church  with  square  towers 
across  the  street  is  the  *Episcopal  Church  of  the  Ascension, 
of  which  Percy  Stickney  Grant  is  pastor. 

This  church  is  well-known  for  its  "Forum"  held  every  Sunday  night 
in  the  parish  house  after  the  regular  service,  at  which  questions  ot  social 
interest  are  discussed. 


178  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  church  is  open  daily,  and  the  interior  is  well  worth  a  visit. 
The  adornment  of  the  chancel  (1889)  is  the  work  of  several  artists, 
tinder  the  general  direction  of  Stanford  Whit^,  John  La  Farge,  D^ 
Maitland  Armstrong  and  Augustus  St,  Gaudens,  and  is  a  memorial  of 
William  C.  Rhinelander  and  Mary  Rogers,  his  wife.  There  is  a  richly 
carved  pulpit  of  Siena  marble.  It  was  designed  by  Charles  McKim, 
and  is  a  memorial  of  the  Rt.  Rev.  Manton  Eastburn,  first  Rector  of 
the  parish;  Behind  the  altar  is  a  spacious  mural  painting  of  The 
Ascension,  by  John  La  Farge,  generally  recognized  as  the  artist's  master- 
piece.    It  cost  $30,000  and  was  the  gift  of  the  Misses  Rhinelander. 

The  church  contains  twelve  elaborate  stained-glass  windows,  all  of 
them  memorials.     Their  subjects  are  as  follows: 

North  Aisle  (beginning  at  east  end),  i.  An  Incident  in  the  Flight 
into  Egypt,  by  /.  Alden  Weir;  2.  Christ's  Admonition  to  Thomas,  by 
Joseph  Lauber;  3.  The  Women  at  the  Sepulchre,  by  Tiffany  Glass 
Company;  4.  Angel  at  the  Sepulchre;  5.  Da  vies  Coxe  Memorial,  by 
La  Farge. 

South  Aisle  (beginning  at  east  end),  i.  Women  at  the  Sepulchre, 
by  John  La  Farge^  2.  The  Child  Jesus  found  by  his  Mother  in  the 
Temple,  by  D.  Mattland  Armstrong;  3.  The  Presentation  of  Christ  in 
the  Temple,  by  John  La  Farge;  4.  The  Annunciation,  by  D.  Maitland 
Armstrong;  5.  Nicodemus  coming  to  Jesus  by  Night,  by  John  La  Farge. 

North  Clerestory:  The  two  Marys  at  the  Sepulchre,  by  Humphreys 
Johnston.     §outh   Clerestory:     Vision   of   St.   John,   by  Johnston. 

One  interesting  historical  association  with  this  church  is^  that  it 
was  the  scene  of  the  marriage  of  President  John  Tyler  to  Miss  Julia 
Gardiner  on  June  26,  18442  the  first  marriage  of  a  United  States  Presi- 
dent during  his  term  of  ofnce. 

Between  nth  and  12th  sts.,  also  on  the  W.  side,  is  another 
brownstone  church  with  a  square  tower, 'the  First  Presby- 
terian Church,  successor  to  the  early  church  on  Wall .  St., 
just  E.  of  New  St.  « 

The  present  edifice,  dating  from  1845,  is  a  stately  example  of  the 
English  perpendicular  style  of  architecture.  The  main  portion  is  modeled 
after  the  church  of  St.  Saviour,  at  Bath,  England.  The  massive  square 
tower  is  copied  from  that  of  Magdalen  Chapel,  Oxford. 

The  tall  office  building  at  12th  st,  N.  E.  corner,  occupies 
in  part  the  site  of  the  former  residence  of  James  Lenox. 

W.  on  I2th  St.,  No.  14,  is  the  Salmagundi  Club,  organized 
in  1875  for  "the  promotion  of  social  intercourse  among  artists 
and  the  advancement  of  art." 

Between  12th  and  13th  Sts.,  west  side,  is  the  publishing 
house  of  the  Macmillan  Company;  and  on  the  S.  W.  corner 
of  13th  St.,  the  new  Educational  Building,  certain  floors  ot 
which  are  occupied  by  Ginn  and  Company,  publishers. 

The  tenants  are  exclusively  firms  that  supply  the  needs  of  educa- 
tional institutions.  They  include  school  architects,  school  building 
contractors,  publishers  of  school  books,  school  supply  concerns,  etc.  On 
the  7th  floor  is  a  permanent  educational  exhibit,  including  everything 
that  will  go  into  an  ordinary  school  room  by  way  of  equipment;  also 
designs  for  school  construction,  appropriate  building  materials,  and  latest 
devices  for  heating,  lighting  and  ventilating. 

The  juncture  of  14th  st.  and  5th  ave.  was  formerly  the  center 
of   the   Spingler  market-garden   farm,   covering  about   22   acres.      Here 


FIFTH  AVE.  FROM  FOURTEENTH  ST.  179 

Spingler  lived  until  his  death  in  181 3.  His  barn  occupied  what  is  now 
the  S.  W.  corner.  Mrs.  Mary  S.  Van  Beuren,  his  grand-daughter  and 
principal  heir,  built  the  brownstone-front  hotise  still  standing  midway 
between  5th  and  6th  aves.,  the  only  surviving  residence  on  the 
block.  The  name  Spingler  still  survives  on  two  structures  at  the  S.  W. 
cor.  of  Union  sq.,  the  Spingler  Hotel  and  the  Spingler  Building. 

C.    Side  Excursion  on  University  Place 

From  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Washington  Square,  University 
Place,  seven  blocks  in  length,  runs  N.  to  Union  Sq.  and  14th 
St.  At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  9th  St.  stands  the  Cafe  Lafayette 
(formerly  CafS  Martin),  one  of  the  oldest  established  and 
best  known  French  restaurants  in  the  city.  At  the  S.  E. 
cor.  of  loth  St.  is  the  University  Place  Presbyterian  Church, 
organized  in  1845  by  private  subscription,  and  finished  in 
1849.  Some  good  glass  windows.  At  nth  St.  is  the  Hotel 
Albert,  an  old-fashioned,  somnolent  house,  but  economical. 
E.  on  I2th  St.  is  the  old  Twelfth  Street  School,  whose  former 
principal,  Lydia  Wadleigh,  did  much  to  promote  free  educa- 
tion for  girls.  The  second  building  N.  of  12th  St.  is  the 
Neiv  York  Society  Library  (No.  109),  the  oldest  public 
library  in  America. 

It  was  established  by  Governor  Bellomont  in  1700,  in  the  City  Hall; 
incorporated  1754;  chartered  by  George  III  in  1773  under  its  present 
name,  and  removed  to  its  present  building  in  1856.  It  is  open,  free, 
daily  (Sundays  excepted)  9  a.m.  to  6  p.m.;  Saturdays  during  Summer, 
9  to  12  noon. 

The  John  C.  Green  Alcove,  established  and  endowed  in  1880, 
contains  a  large  collection  of  costly  illustrated  works  on  paintings, 
costumes,  and  other  branches  of  art.  The  most  valuable  books  may  be 
borrowed  by  shareholders.     Membership  fee,  $10;  shares,  $150. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  13th  St.  a  tablet  marks  the  former 
headquarters  of  the  Ninth  Regiment,  National  Guard,  S.  N.  Y. 
(organized,  1779),  which  served  in  the  Civil  War  as  the  83d 
New  York  Volunteers.  "They  marched  away  850  strong.  .  . 
They  returned  home  with  17  officers  and  78  enlisted  men, 
after  having  gone  through  24  battles." 

D.    Fifth  Avenue  from  Fourteenth  to  Forty-second  Street 

West  of  Fifth  Ave.,  between  15th  and  i6th  Sts.,  is  the 
New  York  Hospital,  incorporated  in  1771,  the  oldest  hospital 
in  the  city.  It  is  a  general  hospital  for  pay  and  free  patients. 
Ward  patients  able  to  pay  are  charged  $1.50  a  day;  private 
patients  from  $3.50  to  $10.00.  The  present  buildings  date 
from  1877   {George  B.  Post,  architect). 

History.  The  New  York  Hospital  received  its  charter  from  George 
III,  June  13,  i77i«.  Although  it  was  not  regularly  opened  as  a  hospital 
until  1791,  anatomical  experiments  were  carried  on  until,  in  1788,  a 
medical  student  threatened  some  peeping  boys  with  a  dissected  human 
arm.  The  frightened  boys  spread  the  information,  and  an  angry  mob 
gathered,   upon  whom  the  soldiers  were  compelled  to  fire  before  they 


i8o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

dispersed.  During  the  Revolution  the  hospital  building,  at  Broadway 
ana  Duane  St.,  served  for  barracks.  The  hospital  was  first  opened  to 
patients  in  1791.  Treatnftnt  for  mental  disorder  has  always  been  a 
feature  of  the  society's  work.  But  it  was  not  until  181 6  that  a  farm 
was  purchased  at  Bloomingdale,  where  the  Blqomingdale  Asylum  ^  was 
completed  and  occupied  in  1821.  It  accommodates  about  400  patients 
a  year. 

The  New  York  Hospital  has  besides  an  Out-Patient  Department^  at 
W.  1 6th  St.,  a  Training  School  for  Nurses,  and  Convalescent  Cottages  at 
White  Plains. 

24  W.  15th  St.  was  the  home  of  Wm.  Cullen  Bryant. 
Further  on  can  be  seen  the  Catholic  Church  and  College  of 
St.  Francis  Xavier,  with  excellent  buildings.  Founded  1847; 
moved  to  present  site,  1850.  Contains  High  School  and 
College  Departments,  in  charge  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  About 
450  students.  In  E.  15th  st.  near  the  ave.  is  the  central  branch 
of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A. 

E.  on  19th  St.,  No.  35,  is  the  former  home  of  Horace 
Greeley,   founder   of   the   New   York    Tribune. 

The  New  York  Society  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church,  150  Fifth  Ave.,  maintains  wholly  or  in  part  32 
churches  and  missions  in  the  city,  many  of  which  are  among 
the  foreign  population. 

At  20th  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  is  the  Methodist  Book  Concern. 
The  Historical  Society,  with  rooms  in  this  building,  possesses 
a  collection  of  relics.  At  28  E.  20th  St.,  S.  side,  is  the  birth- 
place of  Theodore  Roosevelt,  and  No.  53  was  the  home  of 
the  Cary  sisters.  Alice  (1820-71)  and  Phoebe  (1824-71), 
who  achieved  their  first  literary  and  social  success  through 
the  friendship  of  Horace  Greeley,  and  for  two  decades  were 
prominent  in  New  York  literary  circles. 

W.  21  St  St.  was  formerly  called  "Love  Lane.**  No.  34 
was  the  home  of  Chester  A.  Arthur  before  he  became  president. 

From  22d  to  23d  st.,  E.  side,  the  narrow  triangular  block, 
formed  by  the  intersection  of  Broadway  with  5th  ave.,  is  oc- 
cupied by  the  Fuller  Building   (p.  164). 

This  corner  is  famous  for  the  high  winds  that  circle 
about  the  building.  The  large  structure  extending  from  23d 
to  24th  sts.  is  the  Fifth  Avenue  Building, '  preserving  the 
memory  of  the  old  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  formerly  the  favorite 
gathering  place  of  politicians  from  every  state  in  the  Union. 

When  5th  Ave.  was  extended  N.  from  23d  St.  in  1837,  an  old 
building,  the  Horn  Farmhouse,  stood  near  the  center  of  tne  Ave., 
where  it  remained  for  a  time.  In  1839  it  was  moved  to  the  present 
site  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  Building,  and  became  a  well  known  road 
house,  the  Madison  Cottage.  In  1853  it  was  demolished  to  give  place 
to  Franconi's  Hippodrome,  a  two-story  brick  structure,  containing  an 
oval  ring  300  ft.  long  by  200  ft.  wide,  with  a  seating  capacity  of  6000. 
It  was  nnancially  a  failure,  and  gave  place  to  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel, 


FIFTH  AVE.  FROM  FOURTEENTH  ST.  i8i 

opened  in  1859.  It  vras  a  six-story,  white  marble  structure,  equipped 
with  all  the  latest  conveniences  of  that  period,  including  the  nrst 
passenger  elevator  ever  installed. 

Among  its  distinguished  ^ests  were  Presidents  Lincoln  and  Grant, 
the  Prince  of  Wales,  later  King  Edward  VII,  Dom  Pedro,  Emperor  of 
Brazil,  and  a  long  series  of  prominent  Senators^  Congressmen,  Am- 
bassadors and  distinguished  members  of  the  theatrical  profession.  For 
a  long  time  it  was  the  home  of  Ex-Senatbr  Thomas  C.  Piatt,  the  Re- 
publican "boss,"  in  whose  "Amen  Corner"  weekly  conferences  of  far 
reaching  political  consequences  were  held. 

The  14th  floor  of  the  present  edifice  contains  the  Head- 
quarters of  the  Boy  Scouts  of  America;  also  the  club-rooms 

of  the  Aldine  Club. 

This  is  a  literary  and  social  club,  whose  membership  is  limited  to 
printers,  publishers,  authors  and  artists.  It  was  founded  in  18S9,  and 
its  earliest  home  was  at  No.  20  Lafavette  Place.  One  of  its  former 
presidents  was  the  late  Frank  R.  Stockton,  the  novelist. 

The  avenue  here  crosses  Broadway  and  passes  Madison 
Square  (23d  to  26th  sts. ;  p.  164),  on  the  east  side  of  which 
are  the  Metropolitan  Tower  Ip.  206),  the  Appellate  Court 
(p.  207),  and  Madison  Square  Garden  (p.  209). 

West  on  27th,  nos.  14-18,  is  the  American  Museum  of 
Safety,  open,  free  daily  (except  Sundays  and  holidays). 
Contains  models  of  safety  devices  and  sanitary  appliances; 
also  extensive  collection  of  photographs,  broken  wheels,  ex- 
ploded pipes,  poisonous  dust  and  other  exhibits  illustrating 
dangers  to  workmen  and  the  public  that  might  be  prevented. 

On  the  N.  W.  corner  of  29th  St.  is  the  Marble  CollegicUe 
Church,  one  of  the  six  Collegiate  Churches  which  trace  their 
origin  to  the  first  church  organized  by  the  Dutch  settlers  in 
1628.  A  tablet  commemorates  its  succession  to  "the  Church 
in  the  Fort"  and  in  the  yard  is  preserved  the  bell  which 
originally  hung  in  the  North  Church.  The  hotel  adjoining 
the  church  is  the  Holland  House,  quiet  and  satisfactory  (p. 
9).  In  E.  29th  st.  N.  side,  is  the  *Church  of  the  Trans- 
figuration, low  cruciform  building  in  Gothic  style,  shaded 
by  trees,  opened  in  1856,  popularly  called  "The  Little  Church 
Around  the  Corner."  It  is  best  known  from  the  many 
funerals  of  actors  and  weddings  of  ordinary  folk  which 
have  occurred  here. 

The  name  is  said  to  have  originated  from  a  remark  of  a  curate 
in  a  near-by  church  who,  refusing  Joseph  Jefferson's  request  to  conduct 
the  funeral  service  of  George  Holland  the  actor,  suggested  that  "perhaps 
the  rector  of  the  little  church  around  the  corner  might  be  willing  to 
serve."     From  it  have  been  buried  also  Wallack,  Booth,  and  Boucicault. 

The  church  contains  a  number  of  interesting  windows.  Begipning 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  nave,  the  2d  from  entrance  door  is  a  memorial 
window  to  Richard  Mansfield,  and  the  6th,  a  memorial  to  Regina  M., 
wife  of  the  Rev.  Edward  C.  Houghton.  Just  beyond  is  the  Mortuary 
Chapel.  The  central  window  represents  the  Transfiguration;  to  the 
right,    Joseph    of    Arimathea;    The    Raising    of    Lazarus;    to    the    left. 


i82  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Nicodemus;  The  Last  Judgment.  The  chapel,  contains  a  number  of 
tablets;  one  is  to  "Walter  William  Griffin,  d.  1907,  for  35  years  post- 
man for  29th  Street."  The  next  window  is  unique  in  character,  con- 
sisting of  z-j  panels  illustrating  the  Compline  Psalm.  They  are  repro- 
duced on  glass  from  designs  executed  by  Mrs.  C.  C.  Houghton  (wife 
of  the  first  pastor  of  that  name)  to  whom  the  window  is  a  memorial. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  south  transept  is  the  Edwin  Booth  Window, 
given  by  the  members  of  The  Players  in  1898,  designed  by  La  Farge. 
Just  beyond  is  a  quaint  memorial  chapel  to  Jose  Maria  Mutioz,  a 
Spanish  actor.  The  window  is  noteworthy  from  being  studded  over 
with  uncut  diamonds.  On  the  north  side  of  the  nave,  the  only  window 
of  special  interest  is  the  memorial  to  the  actor  Montague  (d.  1878). 
In  the  extreme  S.W.  corner  is  a  memorial  chapel  to  Mary  C.  Houghton, 
wife  of  George  H.  Houghton.  Note  below  the  altar  a  mosaic  of  the 
Last  Supper,  executed  in  Rome. 

On  W.  31st  St.,  No.  19,  is  the  headquarters  of  Life,  New 
York's  chief  weekly  of  social  satire  (Carrere  &  Hastings, 
architects).  Diagonally  opposite  is  the  Wolcott  Hotel,  while 
across  the  avenue  at  No.  12  E.  is  the  La  Marquise. 

At  32d  St.,  N.  E.  corner,  was  the  Knickerbocker  Club, 
organized  in  1871.  Its  membership  is  restricted  to  descend- 
ants of  original  settlers  of  New  York  (now  2  E.  62d  st). 

E.  on  32d  St.,  No.  32,  is  the  St.  Louis  Hotel;  W.  at  No. 
17  is  the  Aberdeen,  and  at  No.  43  the  Pierrepont, 

Between  33d  and  34th  sts.,  W.  side,  rises  the  ♦Waldorf- 
Astoria,  built  of  red  brick  and  sandstone  in  a  German  Renais- 
sance style  (p.  7).  This  was  formerly  the  most  magnificent 
of  the  New  York  hotels,  but  it  is  now  surpassed  in  taste 
by  newer  ones.  The  Waldorf  section  of  the  .building  on  33d 
St.,  erected  in  1893  by  the  Hon.  William  Waldorf  Astor\, 
occupies  the  site  of  the  town  house  of  his  father,  the  late 
John  Jacob  Astor;  while  the  34th  st.  section,  known  as  the 
Astor,  erected  in  1897  hy  Col.  John  Jacob  Astor,  occupies  the 
site  of  the  town  house  of  his  father,  William  B.  Astor.  The 
buildings  were  designed  by  Henry  J.  Hardenbergh,  under 
the  supervision  of  George  C.  Boldt,  the  first  proprietor  and 
lessee  of  both.  Guides  are  provided  without  charge  (fee 
expected)  at  the  main  office  near  the  34th  st.  entrance. 

Main  floor:  The  Waldorf  Restaurant  at  the  33rd  st.  corner,  with 
good  brass  work  and  panelling.  The  Astoria  Restaurant,  at  the^^ath 
St.  corner,  with  murals  by  Turner.  The  Main  Foyer,  34th  st.  «ae: 
statue  of  Vanity  by  Guarnerio;  Statue  of  Night  by  Ives;  a  Clock  valued 
at  $25,000,  the  work  of  the  Goldsmith's  Company  of  London,  exhibited 
at  the  Chicago  World's  Fair,  with  harmonious  cnimes  which  ring  every 

Suarter  hour.  The  Marie  Antoinette  Room,  33rd  st.  side;  ceiling, 
lirth  of  Venus,  by  Low;  Furniture  partly  antique  and  partly  reproduc- 
tion. Turkish  Rooms,  33rd  st.  side;  Sword  of  Napoleon  I.  Small  Ball 
Room,  33rd  St.  side,  ceiling  bjr  Fowler,  Lunettes  by  Armstrong. 
Bradley-Martin  Room,  33rd  st.  side,  named  for  the  first  social  event 
held  here,  the  famous  Bradley-Martin  fancy>dress  ball,  1897.  Red 
Room  or  Library;  Wood-carving;  Frieze  by  Maynard.  Waldorf  Palm 
Garden,  with  Revolving  Dome.  Astoria  jPalm  Garden,  Gentlemen's 
Cafe,  34th  st.  and  Astoria  Court.    Flnt  floor  (x  flight  up.)    The  Grand 


i 


FIFTH  AVE.  FROM  FOURTEENTH  ST.  183 

Ball  Room,  Ceiling  by  Edwin  H.  Blashfield,  representing  Music  and 
the  Dance  (the  largest  single  canvas  in  the  world,  45  by  66  ft.) ;  six 
Lunettes  by  Will  H.  Low:  (i)  The  Dance;  (2)  The  Drama;  (3)  The 
Music  of  the  Sea;  (4)  The  Music  of  the  Woods;  (5)  The  Music  of 
Peace;  (6;  The  Music  of  War.  West  Foyer,  adjoining;  Statue,  the 
Flight  from  Pompeii,  by  Benzoni.  The  Astor  Gallery  (after  the 
Palais  Soubise,  Paris)  16  allegorical  paintings  by  Edward  Simmons,  rcpfe- 
sentine  The  Months  and  The  Seasons.  The  Myrtle  Room.  The 
East  Room.  The  East  or  Caen  Foyer,  containing  the  Statues,  Cleo- 
patra, Jephtha's  Daughter,  and  Undine,  by  Ives;  the  Reading  Girl,  by 
Magni.  Hekry  IV.  of  France  Drawing  Room;  Flemish  Tapestries; 
Painting  of  Margaret  de  Valois  by  Denman;  antique  Furniture.  Fran- 
cois I.  Bedroom  (after  the  Mus^e  de  Cluny) ;  carved  Furniture,  Ameri- 
can work.  The  State  Banquet.  Hall  contains  Mr.  Boldt's  Private  Col- 
lection of  China  valued  at  $35,000.  The  Astor  Dining  Room  and  ad- 
joining Reception  Room  are  located  exactly  above  the  original  Astor 
dining  and  reception  rooms  and  decorated  and  furnished  with  the  origi- 
nal ceiling,  woodwork,  and  furniture.  Third  floor  (2  flights  up).  Tne 
Royal  Suite,  the  Fifth  Avenue  Corner  Suites.  Roof.  Roof  Garden. 
open  in  summer,  admission  by  ticket  from  the  ofiice.  Basement  ana 
Sub-Basement.  Kitchens.  Laundry.  Electrical  Plant.  The  hotel 
contains  also  Barber  Shop,  Ladies'  Hair-Dressing  Rooms,  Florist's  Shop, 
Photographer,  Cigar  Company,  etc.  The  hotel  is  popular  for  conveu' 
tions. 

Between  34th  and  35th  sts.,  E.  side,  is  *Altman's  store, 

recently  enlarged  to  cover  the  entire  block,  back  to  Madison 

Ave.    The  building,  designed  by  Trowbridge  and  Livingston, 

is  of  French  stone. 

The  main  store  is  8  stories  high  and  the  addition  12  stories.  The 
first  5  stories  are  selling  floors.  The  woinen's  waiting  room  is  on 
the  5th  floor.  The  general  information  ofBce  is  on  the  ground  floor, 
34th  St  side.  The  carriage  entrance  is  on  the  35th  St.  side.  The 
concern  employs  a  force  of  about  four  thousand  workers,  and  carries 
on  a  welfare  department  for  their  benefit.  A  large  amount  of  high- 
grade  stock  is  carried,  the  stock  of  the  rug  department  alone  repre- 
senting a  value  of  two  and  a  half  million  dollars. 

The  avenue  now  crosses  34th  St.,  with  cross-town  cars  to 
the  East  River  and  the  Hudson.  To  the  E.  are  small  retail 
shops  and  boarding  houses.  To  the  W.,  McCreery's  store 
(P-  75)  is  the  most  important. 

On  the  N,  W.  corner  of  34th  St.  is  the  Knickerbocker 
Trust  Company,  occupying  the  site  of  the  so-called  "Marble 
Palace,"  the  home  of  A.  T.  Stewart,  the  first  of  New  York's 
merchant  princes,  who  built  the  older  of  the  two  department 
stores  at  Broadway  and  9th  St.,  now  occupied  by  Wana- 
maker's.  At  35  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  is  Best  &  Co.,  formerly 
]  catering  exclusively  to  children,  but  since  their  removal  from 
^  W.  23d  St.,  having  extended  their  scope  to  a  general 
clothing  store. 

At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  36th  street  is  the  new  Gorham 
Building^  executed  in  Italian  Renai3sance,  after  plans  by 
McKim,  Mead  and  White,  The  structure  is  of  creamy  Bed- 
ford (Indiana)  limestone,  and  the  columns  are  of  gold- 
flaked  (Massachusetts)  granite. 


il 


184  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  first  story  is  an  arcade  of  massive  Ionic  columns.  In  the 
limestone    spandrils    between    the    arches    are    a    series    of    bas-reliefs,  ,. 

emblematic  of  the  Arts  and  Industries,  by  Andrew  O'Connor.     There  ;| 

are  eight  spandrils  on  the  36th  St:  facade;  the  comer  bas-reliefs  and  the 
two  central  ones  are  repeated  on  the  Fifth  avenne  facade. 

Note  the  bronze  ornamental  frieze  below  the  cornice,  which  like  all 
the  rest  of  the  bronze  ornamentation  was  cast  at  the  Gorham  foundry, 
and  added  very  largely  to  the  total  cost.  The  entire  building  11 
estimated  at  about  $1,250,000,  and  the  stock  on  hand  averages  con- 
siderably more  than  twice  the  assessed  value  of  the  building. 

At  37th  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  is  *Tiffany  and  Company, 
for  half  a  century  the  leading  jewellers  of  New  York.  Their 
former  store  on  Union  Square  is  still  standing;  but  the 
bronze  figure  of  Atlas  bearing  a  huge  clock  on  his  shoulders, 
long  a  local  land-mark,  now  adorns  the  facade  of  the  new 
edifice. 

The  building  is  of  marble,  from  designs  by  McKim,  Mead  and  White. 
adapted  from  the  Palazzo  Grimani,  Venice  (now  the  Post  Office),  the 
work  of  Michele  San  Micheii, — the  structure  of  which  Ruskin  once 
wrote:  'There  is  not  an  erring  line,  not  a  mistaken  proportion  through- 
out its  noble  front." 

The  ground  floor  is  especially  spacious  and  di^ified.  The  famous 
establishment  is  a  museum  of  art  objects,  and  visitors  are  welcome  to 
wander  for  hours  about  the  store.  Among  the  interesting  objects  are 
antiques  and  curios,  bronzes,  and  statuettes,  the  collection  of  Oriental 
pearl  necklaces,  and  the  pottery  and  glass. 

The  clock  deserves  an  additional  word  regarding  its  history.  It  is 
of  American  make,  dates  from  1850,  and  for  many  years  adorned  the 
front  of  the  original  Tiffany  building  at  550  Broadway,  near  Prince  St. 
It  has  been^  twice  removed,  first  to  Union  squiare  and  later  to  its 
present  position. 

On  the  N.  W.  corner  of  37th  st.  is  the  Brick  Presbyterian 
Church,  organized  in  1767,  the  original  building  having  been 
in  Park  Row.  The  Lecture  Room  (open  all  day)  contains 
a  collection  of  historical  portraits  and  relics. 

At  38th  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  is  *Lord  and  Taylor's  new 
itore,  a  fine  example  of  modern  store  construction  and  ad- 
ministration. The  architecture  is  Italian  Renaissance  and  the 
material  Stoney  Creek  granite  and  vitrified  gray  brick,  orna- 
mented with  limestone  and  terra  cotta. 

The  vestibules  are  finished  in  Botticino  marble  and  Travertine  stone» 
with  ceilings  of  Guastavino  tile.  The  show  window  floors  sink  to  the 
basement  tor  trimming.  An  extra  show  window  rises  in  the  front 
entrance,  when  the  store  closes,  entirely  obliterc^tinff  the  entrance.  The 
carriage  entrance  is  on  ^8th  st.  On  the  ground  noor  the  floor,  walls, 
columns,  and  vaulted  ceilines  are  of  Travertine  stone,  imported  from  the 
vicinity  of  Rome.  The  Colosseum  was  built  of  this  stone.  The  aisles 
are  bordered  with  black  Egyptian  marble.  The  floors  back  of  the 
counters  are  of  cork.  The  wainscoting  and  counter  fixtures  are  of  Af- 
rican mahogany.  Careful  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  artificial  light- 
ing, yellow  rays  of  light  being  cut  out  by  use  of  a  special  glsss.  Pack- 
ages are  sent  for  wrapping  to  the  mezzanine  basement.  The  electric 
delivery  wagons  are   loaded  in  the  basement,  passing  down  an  incline 

{»lane  from  38th  st.  and  out  to  39th  st.     The  power  which  heats  and 
ights  the  store  during  the  day  is  utilized  at  night  for  charging  these 


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FIFTH  AVE.  FROM  FOURTEENTH  ST.  185 

cart.  The  cars  are  kept  in  the  sub'basement.  A  special  Men's  Entrance 
on  38th  St.  leads  to  the  men's  shop.  A  Men's  fiarber  Shop  is  in  the 
mezzanine  basement.  A  Children's  Barber  Shop  is  on  the  fourth  floor. 
The  mezzanine  basement  contains  rooms  where  suburban  customers  may 
•  change  to  evenimr  clothes;  their  afternoon  clothes  being  sent  home 
without  charge.  The  Women's  General  Waiting  and  Rest  Room  is  on 
the  5th  floor,  on  the  38th  st.  side.  The  Concert  Hall  contains  a  $75,000 
Welte  Mignon  Pipe  Organ,  which  is  played  at  concerts.  The  three  res* 
taurants  on  the  xoth  floors  the  Loggia,  the  Wedgwood  Room  and  the 
Mandarin  Room  are  charmingly  decorated.  The  employes  are  carefully 
chosen  and  a  high  degree  or  efliciency  is  demanded.     The  intelligent 

?lanning  shown  in  eyery  department  extends  to  the  employes'  quarters, 
'heir  lunch   rooms,  gymnasium,  hospital,  etc.,  are  well   arranged   and 
administered. 

At  39th  St.,  S.  W.  corner,  is  Vantine's  Oriental  Store,  a 
veritable  museum  of  costly  and  rare  Eastern  curios.  On  tiie 
N.  W.  corner  is  the  Union  League  Club,  organized  in  1863, 
the  first  of  the  clubs  of  similar  name  established  during  the 
Civil  War. 

Its  avowed  purpose  was  "to  discountenance  disloyalty  to  the  United 
States,  and  for  the  promotion  of  good  government  and  the  elevation  of 
American  citizenahip."  The  presidents  of  the  club  include  such  eminent 
names  as  Robert  B.  Minturn,  Jonathan  Sturges.  John  Jay,  Joseph  H. 
Choate,  Hamilton  Fish,  William  M.  Evarts  and  Chauncey  M.   Depew. 

The  club  house,  (built  on  the  site  of  DickeVs  Rtding  Academy, 
half  a  century  ago  the  fashionable  equestrian  school  of  New  York),  is 
in  Queen  Anne  style,  of  Baltimore  pressed  brick,  with  brown  ston: 
trimmings  (Peabody  &  Steams,  Boston,  architects).  On  the  first  floor 
is  the  reading  room,  on  the  Fifth  Avenue  side,  decorated  in  Pompeiian 
style.  Dining  room  on  fourth  floor.  Decorations  by  La  Forge.  The 
club's  art  collection  includes  Carpenter'*  Inauguration  of  Lincoln. 

Opposite  the  Union  League  Club,  at  the  N.  W.  comer 
of  39th  St.,  is  an  old-fashioned  brick  and  brown-stone  resi- 
dence (1856),  the  former  home  of  the  late  John  G.  Wendel, 
and  now  occupied  by  his  three  elderly  sisters. 

The  original  John  G.  Wendel,  sreat-great-grandfather  of  the  late 
Mr.    Wendel,    was    partner   in    the   fur   business   with   the    first    John 

real 
ever 

_     ,  ^ _.    holdines 

in  Manhattan  were  second  only  in  extent  to  those  of  the  Astors.  He 
had  many  eccentricities:  He  collected  his  own  rents,  he  would  never 
sell  a  foot  of  his  holdings,  and  would  never  lease  to  a  saloon.  Ad- 
joining the  house  is  a  garden,  hidden  behind  a  high  board  fence,  for 
which,  according  to  popular  if  unauthenticated  tradition,  Mr.  Wendel 
refused  hundreds  of  thousand  dollars  because  his  sisters  desired  to  use 
it  to   exercise  their  dogs. 

At  40th  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  on  the  site  of  the  residence 
of  Frederick  W.  Vanderbilt  (demolished,  1915)  is  tiie  new 
department  store  of  Arnold,  Constable  &  Co.,  (established 
1827).  It  is,  with  the  exception  of  Daniell's,  at  loth  st,  the 
last  of  the  old  dry-goods  houses  to  move  up-town  from  the 
old  Broadway  shopping  district. 

On  the  W.  from  40th  to  42d  St.,  is  the  New  York  Public 
Library. 


i86  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

III.    The  New  York  Public  Library 

The  **Central  Building  of  the  New  York  Public  Library 
stands  on  the  W.  side  of  5th  ave.,  betw.  40th  and  42d  sts. 
(Open  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  on  every  week  day — including 
holidays — and  from  i  to  10  p.  m.  on  Sundays.)  It  occupies 
part  of  the  site  of  the  old  Croton  distributing  reservoir,  and 
was  built  by  the  City  of  New  York  at  a  cost  of  about  $9,000,- 
000  (Carrere  and  Hastings,  architects.)  The  cornerstone 
was  laid  November  10,  1902,  and  the  building  was  opened 
to  the  public  May  23,  1911.  The  material  is  largely  Ver- 
mont marble,  and  the  style  that  of  the  modern  renaissance, 
more  or  less  of  the  period  of  Louis  XVI,  with  certain 
modifications  to  suit  th^*  conditions  of  to-day.  The  build- 
ing is  rectangular  in  shape,  390  feet  long  and  270  feet  deep, 
built  around  two  inner  courts.  It  Mas  a  cellar,  basement, 
and  three  upper  floors.  Of  the  sculptural  decorations,  the 
two  lions  on  either  side  of  the  main  approach  are  by  E.  C. 
Potter.  The  groups  in  the  pediments  are  by  George  Grey 
Barnard;  the  one  in  the  northern  pediment  representing 
History,  and  the  one  in  the  southern.  Art.  The  figures  above 
the  fountains  on  either  side  of  the  main  entrance  are  by 
Frederick  MacMonnies;  the  man  on  the  northern  side  rep- 
resenting Logic,  and  the  woman  on  the  southern  side  repre- 
senting Inspiration.  The  six  figures  above  the  main  entrance 
are  by  Paul  Bartlett;  naming  them  from  north  to  south 
they  are  History,  Drama,  Poetry,  Religion,  Romance,  and 
Philosophy.  The  rear  of  the  building  should  be  viewed  from 
Bryant  Park,  as  some  critics  consider  the  rear  elevation 
preferable  to  the  front.  The  long  windows  in  the  rear  are 
to  light  the  book  stack. 

The  New  York  Public  Library  was  formed  in  1895  by  the  con- 
solidation of  the  three  corporations:  "The  Trustees  of  the  Astor 
Library"  (originally  incorporated  in  1849),  "The  Trustees  of  the 
Lenox  Library"  (originally  incorporated  in  1870),  and  "The  Tilden 
Trust"  (originally  incorporated  in  1887).  The  Astor  LibiHry  was 
founded  by  John  Jacob  Astor,  whose  gifts,  together  with  tnose  of 
his  sons  and  grandsons,  amounted  to  about  $1,700,000  (p.  153).  The 
Lenox  Library  consisted  of  the  private  library  of  James  Lenox, 
housed  in  its  own  building,  formerly  standing  at  71st  St.  and  sth  Ave., 
and  an  endowment  fund  of  $505,500.  The  Tilden  Trust  owned 
Mr.  Tilden's  private  library  and  an  endowment  fund  estimated  at 
$2,000,000.  To  the  library  formed  by  the  consolidation  of  these  three 
corporations  was  added,  in  1901,  the  New  York  Free  Circulating 
Library  with  eleven  branches.  Various  other  circulating  libraries 
have  also  been  absorbed.  Further  extensions  of  the  Circulation  Depart- 
ment of  the  library  resulted  from  the  offer  by  Mr.  Andrew  (^rnegie, 
in  1901,  of  $5,200,000  for  the  construction  and  equipment  of  more 
circulating  libraries,  on  condition  that  the  city  provide  the  land  and 
maintain   the   libraries   when    complete.      As   a    result,    branch    libraries 


THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


i88  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

have  been  built'  from  time  to  time  throughout  the  three  boroughs 
served  by  The  New  York  Public  Library — Manhattan,  the  Bronx,  and 
Richmond  (Staten  Island).  There  are  now  forty-four  branch  libraries, 
including  the  Central  Circulation  Branch  in  the  Central  Building 
(4ad  St.  entrance).  The  latter  is  maintained  by  the  Library  and  not 
by  the  city.  These  branch  libraries  in  191 5  lent  10,384,579  books. 
The  director  of  the  Library  is  Edwin  H.  Anderson. 

The  Central  Building  is  mainly  devoted  to  the  work  of  the  Refer- 
ence Department  of  the  Library,  although  it  <:ontains  the  tceneral 
offices  of  administration  of  both  the  Reference  and  Circulation  Depart- 
ments, the  Central  Circulation  Branch,  a  children's  room,  the  Traveling 
Libraries'  office,  and  the  Library  for  the  Blind.  Most  of  the  books 
are  for  use  within  the  building  only.  At  the  end  of  19 15  there  were 
1,309,427  books  and  pamphlets,  constituting  the  resources  of  the 
Reference  Department.  Readers  to  the  number  of  827,664  made  written 
application  for  books  in  1915,  and  were  supplied  with  2,289,436 
volumes. 

There  are  two  entrances  to  the  library,  a  side  door  on 
42d  St.,  giving  admission  to  the  basement  floor,  and  a  main 
entrance  on  the  5th  Ave.  side.  The  visitor  should  enter  by  the 
latter,  in  order  to  get  the  full  effect  of  the  stately  ♦lobby, 
rising  through  two  stories,  with  broad  stair-cases  to  right  and 
left,  and  a  gallery  with  columns  and  arches  in  the  rear. 
(Qoak-rooms  to  R.  and  L.  beneath  the  stairs.) 

Opposite  the  entrance,  beyond  the  lobby,  is  a  spacious  Exhibition 
Room,  finished,  like  the  lobby  and  corridors,  in  fine  white  Dorset 
(Vermont)  marble,  while  the  ceiling  is  supported  by  24  columns  of 
green-veined  marble.  This  room  is  devoted  to  exhibitions  of  rare  books, 
manuscripts,  prints  and  other  objects  of  interest.  The  exhibits  are 
usually  changed  several  times  a  year.  In  the  main  corridor,  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Exhibition  Room,  are  eight  portrait  busts,  copied  from 
the  antique:  Titus,  Sophocles,  Socrates,  Julius  Caesar,  Brutus, 
Demosthenes,   Solon  and  Pompeius   Magnus. 

To  the  S.  on  the  main  corridor,  we  reach  the  Current  Periodical 
Room  (No.  Ill,  for  readers  only).  To  the  N.  is  the  Technology  Room 
(No.  lis),  and  opposite  (No.  116),  the  Library  for  the  Blind.  At  the 
W.  end  of  the  42d  st.  corridor  is  the  Patents'  Room  (No.  121).  Along 
the  40th  St.  corridor  are  the  Administration  Offices,  not  open  to  the 
public. 

The  elevators  are  in  the  N.E.  cor.  We  now  ascend  to  the  2d 
floor.  Here,  on  42d  St.  corridor,  are  the  Public  Documents  Room 
(No.  329)  and  the  Economics  and  Sociology  Room  (No.  228).  Along 
the  5th  Ave.  corridor  are  the  Science  Library  (No.  225),  the  Lecture 
Room  (No.  213),  the  Director's  Office  (No.  210)  and  the  Reference 
Librarian's  Office  (No.  211).  A  central  corridor  to  the  W.  leads  to 
the  Slavonic,  Jewish  and  Oriental  Collections  (Nos.  216,  217  and  219 
respectively). 

In  this  corridor  is  a  small  collection  of  statuary:  N.  side:  Ruth, 
by  Randall  Rogers;  Highland  Mary,  by  Benjamin  E.  Spence;  Sleeping 
Shepherd,  by  John  Gibson;  S.  side:  Nydia,  by  Randall  Rogers; 
Abraham  Lincoln,  breaking  the  Bonds  of  Slavery,  by  Thomas  Ball; 
Cyparissus,  by  Francesco  Poszi. 

On  the  third  floor  at  the  rear  is  the  *Main  Reading  Room, 
occupying  an  area  of  half  an  acre.  It  is  approached  through 
the  Public  Catalogue  Room,  whose  walls  are  lined  with  cases 
containing  the  card  catalogue  of  the  Library.    The  Infofma- 


THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


igo  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 


THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  191 

tion  Division  is  also  in  the  Public  Catalogue  Room.  Appli- 
cants for  books  file  slips  at  this  desk,  and  await  their  books 
in  the  Main  Reading  Room.  It  facilitates  service  first  to 
select  one  of  the  numbered  seats  in  the  Reading  Room  and 
indicate  that  number  on  the  order  slip.  Any  visitor  is  free 
to  ask  for  books.  The  Reading  Room  contains  768  seats, 
and  it  is  divided  in  the  middle  by  a  booth,  from  which 
the  books  are  delivered  to  readers.  The  shelves  in  this  room 
contain  a  reference  collection  of  25,000  volumes,  including 
many  works  of  general  literature.  They  are  for  the  free 
use  of  any  one  in  this  room,  without  the  need  of  making 
application. 

From  the  north  end  of  the  room  opens  the  Genealo^  and  Local 
History  Division;  and  from  the  south  end,  the  American  History  Divi- 
sion. Underneath  the  Reading  Room  is  the  book  stack  of  seven 
decks,  containing  334,530  feet  (63.3  miles)  of  shelves,  with  capacity 
for  about  2,000,000  volumes  (the  special  rooms  have  a  capacity  for 
about  500,000  more-  volumes).  Also  on  the  third  floor,  and  opening 
from  the  corridors  in  the  front  and  sides  of  the  building,  are  the 
rooms  devoted  to  reserved  and  rare  books,  the  Art  and  Prints  Division, 
the  Maps  Division,  the  Stuart  Collections,  the  General  Gallery  of 
paintings,  the  Print  Gallery,  the  Manuscript  Division,  and  the  Music 
Division. 

The  Library  owns  a  well  balanced  collection  for  research  in  prac- 
tically all  branches  of  human  knowledge.  It  is  strongest  in  American 
history,  in  all  topics  connected  with  the  American  continents,  in  the 
economic  and  social  sciences,  and  in  public  documents  and  sets  of  the 
publications  of  learned  institutions.  Less  attempt  has  been  made  to 
secure  recent  publications  in  the  departments  of  law,  medicine,  the- 
ology, and  the  biological  sciences,  since  these  subjects  are  covered  by 
special  libraries  elsewhere  in  the  city.  The  inquirer  is,  however,  cer- 
tain to  find  the  fundamental  printed  sources  in  nearly  every  branch 
of  knowledge  represented  in  literature.  Amon^  the  rare  and  valuable 
books  the  foremost  treasures  of  the  Library  include:  the  Gutenberg 
Bible  (printed  by  Gutenberg  and  Fust  about  1455,  and  probably  the 
first  book  printed  with  movable  types);  the  Coverdale  Bible  (1535): 
Tyndale's  Pentateuch  (1530)  and  New  Testament  (1536);  and  Eliot's 
Indian  Bible.  In  fact,  the  collection  of  early  Bibles  in  Enfflish  is 
one  of  the  great  collections  of  the  kind  in  existence.  The  Libriary 
also  owns  four  copies  of  the  First  Folio  Shakespeare  (1623);  several 
copies  of  the  Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Folios  (1633,  1663-64,  1685); 
eight  works  printed  by  William  Caxton  (147S-90);  the  Bay  Psalm 
Book,  the  first  book  printed  in  the  United  States  (Cambridffe,  1640); 
and  the  Doctrina  Christiana,  printed  in  Mexico  in  i544-  'Tbe  manu- 
scripts owned  by  the  Library  include:  the  original  manuscript  of 
Washington's  Farewell  Address;  an  "Evangelistarium,  sive  Lectiones 
ex  Evangeliis,"  a  French-Carlovingian  manuscript  on  aoo  vellum 
leaves,  date  about  870  A.  D.  Another  manuscript  of  special  note  is 
the  work  of  Giulio  Clovio,  his  **Christi  Vita  ab  Evangelistis  de- 
icripta,"  sometimes  called  "The  ToMmeley  Lectionary."  It  was  made 
for  Alexander,  Cardinal  Farnese,  and  by  him  presented  to  Pope 
Paul  III.  The  prints  include  the  Samuel  P.  Avery  collection  of 
18,000    prints,    mainly    French    and    other    modem    etchings   and    litho- 

fraphs;   a  large  collection  of  modern   American  prints;   a  collection  of 
apanese  prints  in  color;  and  a  representative  collection  of  old  prints 
illustrating  the  development  of  reproductive  graphic  art  to  the  present 


RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 


THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  193 

time.  The  Prints  Gallery  is  devoted  to  exhibitions  of  prints,  changed 
from  time  to  time.  The  Stuart  Gallery  contains  collections  of  books, 
pictures,  and  other  objects  of  art,  bequeathed  by  Mrs  Robert  L.  Stuart. 

GENERAL  ROOM. 

(The  numbers  begin  at  the   N.W.   cor.   and  continue  to   R.   on   N. 
wall). 

I.  F.  E.  Church  (i 826-1 900),  Cotopaxi,  Ecuador;  34.  (lately 
moved,  replacing  No.  2)  E.  L.  Vernier'  (1831-87),  Selling  Shell-fish, 
Coast  of  France;  next  picture  unnumbered,  John  IV.  Alexander,  Por- 
trait of  Mrs.  Henry  W.  Draper;  3.  M.  Munkacsy  (1844- 1900),  *BHnd 
Milton  dictating  "Paradise  Lost"  to  his  Daughters;  East  Wall:  Sir 
Henry  Raebum,  "Portrait  of  Lady  Belhaven;  6.  Sir  Edwin  Landseer, 
A  Landscape,  Sunset;  7.  P.  J.  Clays  (i 819-1900),  Calm,  Coast  of  Hol- 
land; 8.  Landseer,  A  Dog  in  a  Stable;  9.  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  Portrait 
of  Miss  Kitty  Fisher;  10.  George  Morland  (1764-1804),  Revenue  Cutter 
in  chase  of  a  Smuggler;  11.  Copy  from  Sir  Peter  Lely's  Portrait  of 
Oliver  Cromweil;  12.  Peter  Nasmyth  (1786-1831)  Woody  Landscape, 
with  Mountains;  13.  John  Singleton  Copley  (1737-1815),  "Portrait  of 
Lady  Frances  Wentworth;  14.  James  Peale  (i 749-1 831),  Portrait  of 
George  Washington;  15.  /.  M,  W.  Turner  (177S-1851),  *Scene  on  the 
French  Coast,  with  an  English  Ship-of-war  stranded;  16.  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds,  *Mrs.  Billington  as  St.  Cecilia:  (It  is  said  that  during  one 
of  the  last  sittings  for  this  portrait,  Haydn  the  composer,  who  greatly 
admired  this  distinguished  singer,  happened  to  be  present,  and  re- 
marked that  the  artist  had  painted  the  picture  entirely  wrong,  since 
it  was  the  ang^s  who  should  have  been  listening  to  Mrs.  Billington, 
and  not  she  to  the  angels);  17.  Rembradt  Peale  (1778-1860),  Portrait 
of  George  Washington;  18.  Turner,  "Staffa,  Fingal's  Cave;  19.  Copley, 
•Portrait  of  Mrs.  Robert  Hooper;  20-24.  Sir  Da^nd  Wilkie  (1805-41), 
Five  Landscapes;  25.  Gilbert  Stuart  (1756-1828),  Portrait  of  John 
Campbell,  of  Jamaica,  R.  I.;  26.  George  Morland,  Pigs  in  a,  Fodder 
Yard;  27.  Stuart,  "Washington;  28.  John  Constable  (1776-1837),  Cot- 
tage on  the  River,  "The  Valley  Farm";  29.  S.  F.  B.  Morse  (1791- 
1872),  Portrait  of  Lafayette;  30.  F.  R.  Lee  (1798-1879),  Mill  on  the 
River  Teign,   Devonshire. 

South  Wall:  31.  Reynolds,  A  Boy  in  a  Red  Velvet  Dress;  An- 
drea del  Sarto  (1488-1530),  Tobit  and  the  Angels;  ^3.  John  Trumbull 
(1756-1843),  Portrait  01  a  Lady;  Unnumbered  painting.  Artist  Un- 
known, Lady  with  Roses;  35-  Trumbull,  Portrait  of  Robert  Lenox,  Esq.; 
36.  Horace  Vernet  (1789-1863),  Siege  of  Saragossa,  1808;  37.  R,  E. 
Pine   (1730-88),  Portrait  of  David   Garrick. 

West  Wall:  38.  /.  B.  Robie  (h.  1821),  Flowers  and  Objects  of 
Art;  39.  Raimondo  de  Madrazo  (1841-98),  Woman  Reading;  40.  Simon 
Saint-Jean  (1808-60),  Fruit  and  Flowers;  41.  /.  IV.  Jarvis  (1780- 
1840),  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  42.  Morse,  Portrait  of  Fitz-Greene  Halleck; 
43«  John  Jackson  (probably  copied  from  Reynolds)  ^  Portrait  of  Edmund 
Burke;  44.  Stuart,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  45.  Thomas  Gainsborough 
(1727-88),  Landscape;  46.  Stuart,  "Portrait  of  George  Washington; 
47.  Paul  Delaroche  (1797-1856),  The  Field  of  Battle;  48.  Stuart,  Por- 
trait of  a  Lady;  49.  Artist  Unknown,  Portrait  of  a  Gentleman;  50. 
Raebum,  "Portrait  of  Van  Brugh  Livingston;  51.  Solomon  Ruysdael 
(1616-70),  Landscape;  52.  William  Collins,  1787-1847),  View  in  Devon- 
shire;  S3.  Stuart,  Head  of  Mrs.  Robert  Morris. 

STUART  ROOM. 

(In  the  following  list  many  of  the  less  important  paintings  are 
omitted.) 

West  Wall  (from  middle  door  north) :  2.  Leon  y  Escosura  (b. 
1834),    Soldiers    Resting;    6.    Luis   JimeneM    (b.    1845),    The    Poet;    7. 


194  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Corot  ( 1 796-1 875),  Landscape  and  Figures;  8.  Daniel  Huntington  (1816- 
1906),  Chocorua  Peak,  New  Hampshire;  12.  Jervis  McEntee  (1828-91), 
Autumn,  Mill-stream;  13.  B.  A.  Desgoffe  (1830-87),  Objects  of  Art 
used  by  Marie  Antoniette;  15.  5.  F.  van  Meier  (about  i85o)»  Market, 
Night  Scene;  21.  M.  Munkacsy,  Study  of  Flowers;  22.  George  Inness 
(1825-94),  Hackensack  Meadows,  Sunset;  23.  G.  H.  Kotschenreiter  (b. 
1854),  Puzzled;  26.  Eastman  Johnson  (1824- 1906),  Knitting  for  the 
Soldiers;  27.  G.  H.  Boughton  (1834-1905),  'Pilgrims  going  to  Church; 
28.  Adolph  Schreyer,  'The  Attack;  36.  Luis  Alvares  (.1836-1901),  May 
Festival  in  Spain;  37.  IV.  Verschuur  (1812-74),  Belgian  Horses;  40. 
A.  Siegert  (1820-88),  Saying  Grace;  43.  Hugues  Merle  (1823-81, 
•Grandmother's  Story;  46.  William  Hart  (1823-94),  Stirling  Castle; 
48.  Carl  Httbner  (1814-79),  The  Jealous  Lover;  49.  Jos4  Jtmenes  y 
Aranda  (1837-1903),  The  Presentation ;  52.  A.  Bierstadt  (183JO-1902), 
Indian  Encampment,  Shoshone  Village. 

North  Wall:  57.  E.  Detaille  (b.  1848),  Napoleon  I.  and  his  Gen- 
erals at  the  Battle  of  Austerlitz;  58.  G.  H.  Durrie,  Returning  to  the 
Farm;  59.  7*.  S.  Cooper  (i 803-1 902),  Morning  on  tike  Cumberland 
Mountains;  60.  D.  Huntington,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Robert  L.  Stuart; 
62.  /.  G.  Meyer  von  Bremen  (1813-86),  A  Listener;  64.  V.  Brosik 
(185 1 -1901),  *Rudolph  II.,  Emperor  of  Germany,  in  the  Laboratory  of 
his  Alchymist,  A.  D.  1576;  68.  P.  van  Schendel  (1806-70),  Fruit  Mar- 
ket at  Night,  Rotterdam;  69.  E.  J.  Verboeckhoven  (i 799-1 881),  Scoteh 
Sheep;  70.  S.  J.  Guy  (b.  1824),  Copy  of  Mandraso's  Portrait  of 
Robert  L.  Stuart;  71.  fV.  Whittredge  (1820-1910),  A  Window,  House 
on  Hudson  River;  74.  /.  G.  Vibert  (1840- 1902),  A  Theological  Dispute; 
75.  /.  P.  Herring  (1795-1865),  The  Stirrup-cup;  78.  Cj  froyon  <i8io- 
65),  *Cow  and  Sheep. 

East  Wall:  79.  /.  P-  Hasenclever  (1810-53),  Introducing  the  New 
Scholar;  80.  C.  Baugniet  (1814-86),  Lost  Illusions;  81.  William  Hart, 
On  the  Esopus,  Meadow  Groves;  82.  Louis  Lang  (1814-93 "J,  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  dividing  her  jewels;  83.  H.  Biirkel,  Winter  in  the 
Tyrol;  84.  /.  F.  Kensett  (1816-72),  Nahant  Rock  and  Seashore;  85. 
H,  J.  Boddington  (18x1-65),  The  River  Crossing,  Ledder  Valley,  North 
Wales;  86.  C.  Baugniet,  Letter  of  Recommendation;  87.  W.  A.  Sou- 
guereau  (1825-1905),  The  Young  Mother;  88.  /.  Akkersdyk  (about 
i860),  Dutch  Fish  Market,  Rotterdam;  89.  M.  F.  H.  De  Haas  (1832- 
95).  Wreck  on  the  Isle  of  Jersey;  90.  B.  C.  Koek-Koek  (1803-62),  The 
Wayside  Shrine;  91.  F.  E.  Church,  Cayambe  (a  mountain  in  Ecuador); 
9J.  C.  F.  Lessing  (1808-80),  Group  of  Diisseldorf  Artists;  93.  7. 
Dobbin  (about  1850),  Religious  Procession,  Westminster  Abbey;  94. 
Hugues  Merle,  Hope  and  Faith;  99.  A.  A.  Lesrel  (b.  1830),,  The 
Chess  Players,  Time  of  Louis  XIII.;  100.  R.  Gignoux  (1816-82), 
Springtime;  loi.  E,  H.  May  (1824-87),  Moliere  in  the  Greenroom, 
the  Quarrel;  102.  /.  F.  Cropsey  (1825-1900),  View  near  Rome;  103. 
G.  M.  Durrie,  Wood  for  Winter;  105.  A,  V.  Durand,  White  Mountain 
Scenery,  Franconia  Notch;  107.  W.  L.  Sonntag  (1822- 1900),  Moun- 
tains in  Virginia;  110.  Louis  Verwee  (1807-77),  Winter  in  Holland; 
1x2.  M.  J.  Heade,  Study  of  an  Orchid;  116.  M.  Munkacsy,  Luncheon 
in  Garden;  X17.  E.  Leutse  (1816-68),  Game;  119.  Henry  Inman  (x8oi- 
46), '  Portrait  of  a  Young  Man;  126.  /.  F.  Cropsey,  Sunset,  Lake 
George;  127.  W.  T.  Richards  (1833-1905),  Germantown  Woods;  X30. 
Henry  Jaeckel  (about  1850),  Swiss  Lake;  133.  E.  Boutibonne  (about 
1874),  Traveling  in  Switzerland;  136.  Henry  Jaeckel,  Swiss  Village; 
X39.  Aaron  Penley  (106-70),  Derwent  Water;  140.  E.  Richardt  (1819- 
95),  Frederikpborg  Palace,  Copenhagen;  141.  W.  S.  Mount  (1807-86), 
Coming  to  the  Point;  142.  Edwin  White  (18x7-77),  Spinning  Flax  in 
Olden  Times;  X44.  Th.  Fr^re  (1815-88),  Market  in  Cairo;  146.  /.  L. 
Girome  (1824-1904),  Runners  of  the  Pasha;  148.  N.  Diaa  (1808-76), 
Hawking  Party;    149.  E.  Dupri   (about   1850),   Girl  at  Toilet;    isx.  E. 


THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  195 

Detaille,  Chasseur  of  the  French  Imperial  Guard;  153.  /.  Coomans 
(1816-91),  Music,  the  Nine  Muses;  i54-  V-  Brdgik,  The  Rejected 
Suitor;  156.  /.  F.  Cropsey,  Lake  George;  157.  Thomas  Cote  (1801-48), 
Catskill  Creek;  158.  F.  Richardt,  The  Fortress  of  Kronborg,  at  Elsi- 
nore  (scene  of  the  play  of  "Hamlet");  162.  Ernest  Korner  (b.  1846), 
Inundation  in  Egypt;  168.  H.  Rhomberg  (1819-69),  Children  and  Pup- 
pies; 169.  P.  J.  Clays,  Dutch  Shipping;  170.  L.  Bruck-Laojs  (b.  1846), 
Home  Lessons;  171.  Albert  Zimmermann  (1809-88),  Lake  Como;  172. 
Isse  Talbot  (1807-79),  Indian  on  a  ClifiF;  173.  Dedaests  (about  1850), 
Studio  of  Rembrandt;  176.  W.  A.  Bouguereau,  'The  Secret;  180. 
Giuseppe  Ferrari  (about  1880),  Selecting  the  Jewels;  181.  Ludwig 
Knaus  (1829-1910),  The  Quarrel;  183.  Gustave  Brion  (1824-77"^,  The 
Charcoal  Furnace.  ^ 

South  Wall:  185.  Louis  Alvarez,  The  Obliging  Suitor;  186.  R. 
Madraso  (about  1848),  Moorish  Interior;  187.  E.  Leutze,  Princess 
Elizabeth  in  the  Tower,  1554;  ^89.  /.  F.  Kensett,  View  from  West 
Point;  190.  A.  B.  Durand,  Woodland  Brook. 

No.  191.  ♦Tapestry.  Catalogued  erroneously  in  the 
Library's  official  guide  book  as  follows:  "Apollo  and  the 
Muses  in  the  Elysian  Fields,  with  Helios,  the  Sun-god, 
descending  from  the  Clouds.  Date,  about  1750-70.  Measure- 
ments, 13^x215^.  Made  at  the  Gob£lin  Tapestry  Works/* 
This  really  beautiful  tapestry  now  known  as  the  "Parnassus 
Tapestry,"  was  recently  examined  by  the  recognized  expert, 
George  Leland  Hunter,  who  identified  it  as  coming  from  the 
looms  of  Josse  de  Vos,  who  flourished  in  Brussels  at  the 
beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century.  The  lower  margin  of 
the  tapestry  has  been  repaired  and  turned  down,  so  that  now. 
any  visitor  can  see  for  himself  the  signature  of  the  maker, 
"I.  DEVOS/*  and  also  the  Brussels  mark,  a  shield  between 
two  B|s,  the  first  B  standing  for  Brussels,  the  second  for 
Brabant,  the  province  of  which  Brussels  was  then  the  capital. 

South  Wall  (continued):  193.  S.  R.  Gifford  (1823-80),  Lake 
Maggiore;   194.  /.  F.  Kensett,  White  Mountain  Scenery. 

West  Wall  (concluded):  196.  G.  H.  Durrie,  Farmyard,  Winter; 
199-  /.  A.  Walker  (d.  1898),  Siege  of  Paris,  Battery  in  Action;  300. 
Edwin  White,  Thoughts  of  Liberia,  Emancipation;  203.  A.  Schenck, 
Sheep  in  Snow-storm;  204.  E.  Hamman  (1819-88)  Venetian  Balcony; 
ao6.  A.  F.  Bellows  (1829-83),  Forest  Life,  Encampment  on  the  Penob- 
scot; 209.  /.  W.  Glass  (1825-57),  English  Horse  (iuard.  Sentinel;  211. 
A.  B.  Durand,  Franconia,  White  Mountains;  212.  H.  Herzog  (b. 
1832),  Fiord  in  Norway;  214.  /.  Vollmering  (1810-87),  Landscape  and 
Windmills,  Belgium;  217.  F.  W.  Edmunds  (1806-63),  The  Windmill; 
219.  Eastman  Johnson,  Sunday  Mornino;;  220.  Carl  Becker  (1820- 
1900),  The  Petition  to  the  Doge;  223.  Meissonier  (1815-92),  Cavalier, 
Portrait  of  the  Artist;  224.  /.  F.  Weir  (b.  1841),  View  of  the  High- 
lands from  West  Point;  225.  Eastman  Johnson,  Old  Kentucky  Home, 
Life  in  the  South;  226.  B.  Sana  (about  i860),  Seacoast,  Holland;  2^9. 
/.  F.  Kensett,  Shrewsbury  River;  230.  Thomas  Cole,  Mountain  Scen- 
ery; 232.  H.  de  Braekeleer  (1830-88),  Flemish  Lace  Makers;  233.  V. 
Bfcztk,  Graiidmother's  Birthday;  234.  G.  H.  Boughton,  Winter  Twi- 
light near  Albany;  337.  Rosa  Bonheur  (1822-99),  Deer  Drinking;  239. 
Fwmm  Ovratrd  (b.  1838),  Market  Day  in  Brittany;  240.  /.  van  Ruys- 
dael.  Landscape  Mountain  Stream;  243.  W.  KoekKoek  (b.  1839), 
Street  IB  Holmnd. 


196  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Sculptures:  i.  (at  N.  end)  Isaac,  by  Randolph  Rogers;  2.  (at  S. 
end)  Rebecca,  by  /.  M osier;  3.  (E.  side  middle  alcove).  Bust  of  John 
Jacob  Astor  (all  three  in  marble) ;  4.  Bronze  by  Barye  (beneath  tap- 
estry), Puma  dragging  down  a  Stag. 

Visitors  to  the  Library  should  also  inspect  certain  rooms 
in  the  basement  (conveniently  reached  by  the  elevators,  or 
from  the  42d  St.  entrance  to  the  building).  Here  are  the 
Newspaper  Room,  the  Central  Circulation  Room,  and  the 
Central  Children's  Room.  The  rest  of  the  basement  floor  is 
not  open  to  the  public.  It  is  occupied  by  the  Library  School, 
the  Printing  Office  and  Bindery,  and  the  ofive  of  the  Trav- 
elling Libraries.  The  Central  Circulation  Room  is  interesting 
because  of  its  activity.  From  this  room  in  1915  were  borrowed 
532,482  books.  The  Children's  Room,  with  its  collection  of 
brightly  colored  picture-books,  its  pictures,  and  floral  deco- 
rations, is  both  interesting  and  attractive,  and  has  furnished 
suggestions  for  similar  rooms  in  different  parts  of  the  world. 
It  is  visited  by  adults  as  well  as  by  children,  the  former 
seeking  information  about  children's  books.  There  are  fre- 
quent exhibitions  on  various  subjects,  and  a  quaint  collection 
of  old-fashioned  children's  books. 

For  further  information  about  the  Library,  see  three  of  the  Library's 
publications:  "Handbook  of  The  New  York  Public  Library,"  "Central 
Building  Guide,"  and  "Facts  for  the  Public."  These  give  information 
about  hours  of  opening  and  other  details,  both  for  the  Central  Building 
and  for  the  44  branch  libraries  which  are  located  in  different  parts  of 
Manhattan,  Staten   Island  and  The  Bronx. 

IV.     Fifth  Avenue  from  the  Public  Library  (42d 

St.)  to  the  Plaza  (59th  St.) 

The  avenue  now  crosses  42d  St.,  the  busiest  of  the  cross- 
town  thoroughfares,  with  cars  running  to  the  East  River 
and  the  Hudson.  To  the  E.  are  Grand  Central  Terminal 
Railroad  Station  (p.  114),  Manhattan  Hotel  (p.  10),  Belmont 
Hotel  (p.  10).  To  the  W.,  between  5th  and  6th  aves.,  the 
Public  Library  and  Bryant  Park  (p.  229)  ;  on  the  S.  and  on 
the  N.,  retail  shops,  of  which  Stern's  (p.  76)   is  the  largest. 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  43d  St.  is  the  Temple  Emanu-El, 
a  highly  ornate  Jewish  synagogue,  a  fine  specimen  of  Sara- 
cenic architecture.  Note  the  two  minarets  on  the  Fifth  Ave. 
front,  with  artistic  open-work  (L.  Eidlits,  architect).  The 
materials  are  brown  and  yellow  sandstone,  with  black  and  red 
tiles  alternating  on  the  roof. 

History.  It  was  organized  in  1845,  the  services  being  first  held 
in)  the  Grand  St.  Court  Room;  in  1850  it  took  over  and  remodeled  a 
small  Unitarian  Church  on  Chrystie  St.;  in  1856  it  moved  to  a  Baptist 
Church  in  12th  St.;  and  in  1868  the  present  structure  was  erected  at 
a  cost  of  $600,000.     Seating  capacity  2000.     It  is  usually  open  week 


FIFTH  AVENUE  TO  THE  PLAZA  197 

days,  and  is  worth  a  visit;  massive  columns,  spanned  by  Saracenic 
arches,  support  the  lofty  clerestory,  the  whole  being  elaborately  deco- 
rated with  Moorish  Traceries.  Near  the  entrance  are  memorial  tablets 
to  Dr.  Leo  Metzhacher,  first  Rabbi,  1845-56;  and  to  his  successors,  Dr, 
Samuel  Adler  (father  of  Felix  Adler),  1857-74.  and  Dr.  Gustav  GottheU, 
1873-1903. 

West  on  43d  St.,  No.  7,  is  the  Century  Club,  an  Italian 
renaissance  structure,  with  basement  of  light  stone  and 
superstructure  of  cream-colored  brick.  Note  the  graceful 
loggia   on    second    story.      (Architects,    McKim,   Mead   and 

White.) 

The  club  was  organized  in  1847  "to  promote  the  advancement  of 
art  and  literature."  It  owes  its  name  to  the  fact  that  the  membership 
was  originally  limited  to  one  hundred.  Among  its  incorporators  were 
William  Cullen  Bryant  and   William  H.  Appleton, 

At  No.  17  is  the  Academy  of  Medicine,  a  massive  Roman- 
esque structure  of  brownish  red  Kibbe  stone,  designed  by 
R.  H.  Robertson.  It  is  not  a  club,  but  a  building  devoted 
entirely  to  scientific  purposes  (founded  1847). 

It  contains  a  Medical  Library  of  10,000  volumes,  which  is  open  to 
the  public  until  2  p.  m.  Open  daily  f Sundays  and  holidays  excepted), 
from  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  ro.  and  from  7  to  9  p.  m.  (After  2  p^  m.  to 
members  only.) 

At  No.  27  is  the  Racquet  and  Tennis  Club,  an  organization 
devoted  to  "the  encouragement  of  all  manly  sports  among 
its  members." 

At  44th  St.,  at  the  N.  E.  corner  is  Delmonico's  famous 
restaurant,  and  diagonally  across  on  the  S.  W.,  Sherry's,  con- 
taining a  fine  ballroom.  On  the  S.  E.  is  the  Harriman 
National  Bank,  and  diagonally  across,  on  the  N.  W.,  is 
the  Fifth  Avenue  Bank.  In  44th  St.,  between  5th  and  6th 
Avenues,  is  No.  7,  the  St.  Nicholas  Club,  formed  of  descend- 
ants of  residents,  prior  to  1785,  of  either  the  City  or  State  of 
New  York. 

Its  purposes  are  social,  and  also  "to  collect  and  preserve  informa 
tion  regarding  the  early  history  of  New  York." 

No.  IQ  is  the  old  Berkeley  Lyceum,  formerly  the  property 
of  the  Berkeley  Military  School  for  Boys.  It  is  now  the 
Theatre  FrenQais,  with  a  French  stock  company.  At  No.  21 
was  the  City  History  Club  (now  105  W.  40th  st),  established 
in  1896  to  promote  good  citienzship  through  the  study  of  his- 
tory. The  Mechanics  Institute  (GencrsA  Society  of  Mechanics 
and  Tradesmen  of  the  City  of  New  York,  instituted  1785)  at 
No.  16-24  maintains  free  evening  classes  for  young  men  in 
drawing,    mathematics,    modelling,    physics,    and   electricity. 

The  Mossman  Collection  of  Locks  and  Keys  is  displayed  in  the 
gallery  of  tht  first  floor.  (Open  week  days,  9  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m.;  free.) 
The  collection  contains  every  variety  of  locks  from  the  huge 
mediaeval  type  to  intricate  modern  time  locks. 


198  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

No.  23  is  the  Twelfth  Night  Club;  a  woman's  club,  the 
membership  of  which  is  limited  to  ladies  of  the  theatrical 
profession.  No.  27,  the  Harvard  Club,  designed  by  McKim, 
Mead  and  White.  The  eighth  story  addition  on  the  west  was 
built  in  1915. 

This  club  is  noted  for  its  spacious  Lounge,  extending  the  entire 
width  of  the  building  and  rising  through  a  space  of  three  stories;  it 
was  formerly  the  dining-room,  which  has  now  been  transferred  to 
the  new  part. 

No.  30,  diagonally  opposite,  was  until  191 5  the  Yale  Club, 
now  in  its  new  home  at  44th  St.  and  Vanderbilt  Ave.  No.  32 
is  the  Phi  Gamma  Delta  Fraternity  House;  No.  37-41  is  the 
New  York  Yacht  Club,  designed  by  Warren  &  Wetmore.  This 
club  is  the  custodian  of  the  famous  America  Cup.    No.  42  is 

the  Bar  Association  (Cyrus  L.  W.  Eidlits,  architect). 

History.  The  New  York  Association  of  the  Bar  (formerly  at 
No.  7  W.  29th  St.),  was  founded  in  1870,  "for  the  purpose  of  main- 
taining the  honor  and  dignity  of  the  profession  of  the  law,  of 
cultivating  social  relations  among  its  mem'bers  and  increasing  its  use- 
fulness in  promoting  the  due  administraton  of  justice."  It  baa  num- 
bered among  its  presiHents  surh  famous  lawyers  and  iun'sts  as  William 
M.  Evarts  (1870-79),  Stephen  P.*Nash  (t88i),  James  C.  Carter  ( 1884-5) t 
William  Allen  Butler  (1886-7),  Joseph  H.  Choate  (1888-9),  Frederic 
R.  Coudert  (1890-91),  and  Wheeler  H.  Peckham  (1892-93).  The  Bar 
Association  Law  Library  contains  over  60,000  volumes. 

No.  49  is  the  Iroquois  Hotel  (see  p.  11) ;  No.  53  is  the 
City  Club,  the  purpose  of  which  is  the  improvement  of  mu- 
nicipal government.  No.  59  is  the  Hotel  Algonquin;  it  con- 
tains, on  the  east  wall  of  the  caf^  a  mural  painting  by 
William  De  L.  Dodge.  At  45th  St.,  E.  side  of  5th  Ave.,  is 
the  Church  of  the  Heavenly  Rest  (P.  E.),  containing  some 
fine  wood  carving  and  stained  glass  windows.  The  walls  are 
richly  frescoed  by  Johannes  A.  Oertel  and  others.  The  altar 
piece  is  "Christus  Consolator,"  by  Ary  Scheffer.  West  on  4Sth 
St.  are:  No.  40,  the  Webster  Hotel,  No.  44.  the  Seymour 
Hotel,  and  No.  59,  the  Schuyler  Hotel. 

Between  46th  and  47th  St.  E.  side  was  the  site  of  the 
Windsor  Hotel,  destroyed  bv  fire  with  a  loss  of  50  lives,  in 
1899,  now  occupied  by  the  Windsor  Arcade  and  the  firm  of 
W.  and  J.  Shane,  the  well  known  rug  house.  No.  4  W.  46th 
St.  is  the  Fifth  Avenue  Baptist  Church. 

At  47th  St.,  E.  side.  No.  579,  is  the  residence  of  Mrs,  F.  J, 
Shepard  (Helen  Gould). 

At  48th  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  No.  591,  is  the  residence  of 

Mrs.  Robert  Goelet  (Edward  Hale  Kendall,  architect).  On 
the  N.  corner  is  the  ^Collegiate  Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  one 
of  the  most  elaborate  churches  in  the  city,  in  14th  century  or 
Decorated  Gothic  style. 


FIFTH  AVENUE  TO  THE  PLAZA  199 

The  spire  is  crocketed  and  is  270  ft.  high.  Within  is  a  tablet  to 
soldiers  and  sailors  of  the  Revolution,  placed  by  the  Daughters  of  the 
Revolution,  collections  of  historical  pictures  and  books.  The  b«ll 
which  hangs  in  the  steeple  was  cast  in  Amsterdam  in  1728.  It  1M» 
bequeathed  by  Abraham  de  Pcyster  to  the  Middlfe  Dutch  Church  on 
Nassau  Street.  When  that  edihce  became  the  Post  Office  in  i845f  the 
bell  was  removed,  successively  to  the  9th  St.  Church,  the  Lafayette 
Place  Church  and  later  to  its  present  location. 

No.  604  is  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Russell  Sage. 

Between  49th  and  50th  St.,  on  the  E.  side.,  are  Belgravh 
Apartment  House  and  the  Democratic  Club,  and  Buckingham 
Hotel.  On  the  W.  side,  No.  608  is  the  residence  of  Mrs. 
Ogden  Goelet  (Edward  Hale  Kendall^  architect)  ;  John  Innes 
Kane;  No.  612,  Frederick  S.  Flower;  No.  620,  Chas.  F.  Hoff- 
man;  No.  622,  August  Hecksher. 

♦*St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  occupying  the  block  bounded 
by  Fifth  and  Madison  avenues,  50th  and  Sist  streets,  is,  with 
the  exception  of  the  unfinished  St.  John  the  Divine,  the  most 
important  ecclesiastic  structure  in  the  city.  It  was  designed 
by  James  Renzvick,  in  the  decorative  and  geometric  order  of 
Gothic  architecture;  the  corner  stone  was  laid  in  1858,  and 
the  cathedral  dedicated  in  1879  hy  Cardinal  McClosky.  The 
Lady  Chapel,  with  its  two  semi-octagonal  side  chapels,  was 
added  in  1901-6  (Charles  T.  Matthews^  architect),  and  is 
of  white  Vermont  marble,  the  quarries  which  furnished  the 
dolomite  for  the  Cathedral  having  in  the  interval  become  ex- 
hausted. The  residences  of  *he  archbishops  and  canons,  on 
the  Madison  avenue  side,  harmonize  with  the  design  of  th'» 
main  structure. 

Dimensions:  length,  33s  ft.;  breadth,  174  ft.;  breadth  of  nave 
and  choir  with  chapels,  120  ft.;  height  of  central  gable,  156  ft.; 
height  of  spires,  330  ft.     The  seating  capacity  is  2500. 

Interior.  The  interior  is  cruciform,  and  is  divided  into  a  nave, 
two  transepts  and  a  choir  or  sanctuary.  The  columns  which  divide 
the  central  aisle  from  the  side  aisles  are  of  white  marble,  35  ft.  high, 
the  arches  between  the  columns  rising  to  54  ft.  The  sanctuary  floor 
is  raised  six  steps  above  the  main  floor,  and  the  high  altar  three  steps 
higher.     The  woodwork  is  of  white  ash. 

The  Windows.  The  visitor  will  find  it  convenient  to 
begin  with  an  inspection  of  the  windows,  which  may  best  ' 
be  seen  from  the  central  aisle,  before  proceeding  to  make 
the  rounds  of  the  chapels,  paintings,  and  wall  sculptures. 
The  cathedral  contains  seventy  windows,  of  which  45  are 
figured,  and  14  of  cathedral  glass,  in  geometric  patterns. 
They  were  all  made  in  France,  some  of  them  by  Henry  Ely, 
of  Nantes ;  the  others  by  Nicholas  Lorin,  of  Chartres. 

Beginning  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  nave:  i.  The  window 
of  the  Three  Baptisms;  in  the  centre  the  Baptism  of  Water  (Our 
Lord   baptized   by    St.    John),   to    the   right   the   Baptism   of   Blood    (a 


200  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

martyrdom),  to  the  left  the  Baptism  of  Desire  (reclining  figure  con- 
sumed with  the  desire  for  baptism;  2.  St.  Columbanus  administering 
^0  Thierry  IL  King  of  Burgundy,  the  rebuke  which  led  to  his  con- 
version; 3.  Fapal  approbation  of  the  Constitution  of  the  Brothers 
of  the  Christian  Schools  by  Benedict  XIII,  January  26,  1725  (gift 
of    the    Christian    Brothers);      4.  The    Martyrdom    of    St.    Lawrence; 

5.  St.  Bernard  preaching  the  Second  Crusade;  north  transept,  west 
wall:  6.  St.  Charles  Borromeo  (showing  the  Cardinal  during  the 
plague  at  Milan);  north  wall  of  transept,  to  left  and  right  of  entrance 
door:  7.  St.  Luke's  window;  8.  St.  Matthew's  window  (four  episodes 
in  the  life  of  each  saint);  in  the  centre,  above  the  entrance  door: 

9.  The  Window  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  (one  of  the  cathedral's 
two  Great  Storied  Windows),  narrating  her  life  in  eighteen  episodes. 
There  are  threQ  episodes  in  each  of  the  six  bays,  and  the  series  is 
to  be  read  upwards,  beginning  at  the  lower  left-hand  corner:  i.  Her 
Nativity;  a.  Her  Presentation  in  the  Temple;  3.  She  is  taught  by 
St.    Anne;     4.  She   is   espoused   to    St.   Joseph;     5.  The   Annunciation; 

6.  An  angel  appears  to  St.  Joseph;  7.  She  visits  St.  Elizabeth; 
8.  The  Nativity  of  Our  Lord;  9.  The  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds; 
10.  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  11.  Christ's  Presentation  in  the 
Temple;  12.  The  Flight  into  Egypt;  13.  Joseph  carrying  Jesus  on 
the  journey;  14.  The  Holy  Family  at  Nazareth;  15.  The  Moth-r  of 
Sorrows;  16.  The  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost  upon  Mary  and  the 
Apostles;      17.  The    Blessed    Virgin's    Death;      18.  The    Assumption. 

Continuing  /along  east  wall  of  transept:  Window  No.  10.  St. 
Augustine  at  the  death-bed  of  his  mother,  St.  Monica;  11.  St.  Paul's 
window;  12-22,  the  eleven  windows  in  the  sanctuary,  six  lateral  and 
five  in  the  apse:  the  lateral  windows  relate  to  sacrifices  and  are  as 
follows,  beginning  on  the -north  wall:  12.  The  Sacrifice  of  Abel; 
13.       The     Sacrifice    of     Noah;     14.     The     Sacrifice     of     Melchisadek; 

15.  (opposite^  on  south  wall,  left  to  right)   The  Sacrifice  of  Abraham; 

16.  The  Eating  of  the  Paschal  Lamb;  17.  The  Sacrifice  of  Calvary; 
in  the  Apse:  18.  The  Resurrection  of  Lazarus;  19.  The  Communion 
of  St.  John;  20.  The  Resurrection  of  Our  Lord;  21.  The  Giving  of 
the  Keys  to  St.  Peter;  22.  Jesus  meeting  the  Disciples  going  to 
Emmaus. 

We  now  make  a  detour  behind  the  sanctuary,  along  the  north 
chancel  wall,  passing:  23.  The  Presentation  of  the  Blessed  Virgin 
in  the  Temple;  24.  The  Adoration  of  the  Child  Jesus;  25.  The  Virgin 
exposing  the  Infant  to  Veneration  after  his  Birth;  26-28.  Three 
highly  decorative  windows  containing  a  multitude  of  small  medallion 
fijg:ures,  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Michael  and  St.  Louis;  29-31.  Three 
similar  windows  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Elizabeth;  32.  (in  south  chancel 
aisle)  The  Death  of  St.  Joseph;  33.  St.  Alphonsus  Ligouri  mirac- 
ulously giving  speech  to  a  dumb  youth;  on  right,  St.  Susanna;  on 
left,  St.  Teresa;  34.  St.  Agnes;  on  right,  St.  James  the  Greater; 
on  left,   St.   Thomas. 

In  south  transept,  north  wall:  35.  Window  of  St.  Louis  of 
France  (showing  Saint  placing  holy  relics  in  St.  Chapelle) ;  36.  Window, 
of  the  Sacred  Heart;  on  south  wall  of  transept  is  the  second  Great 
Storied   Window: 

37.  St.  Patrick's  Window,  the  titular  window  of  the  cathedral, 
containing^  eighteen  episodes  from  the  saint's  life.  As  in  the  case 
of  the  Window  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  the  series  is  to  be  read  upward 
beginning  at  the  lower  left-hand  comer:  i.  The  Baptism  of  St. 
Patrick;  2.  He  is  taken  prisoner  at  the  age  of  thirteen;  3.  An  angel 
reveals  to  him  his  vocation;  4.  He  preaches  the  Gospel  on  board 
ship;  5.  He  is  sold  to  King  Milcho;  6.  He  is  set  at  liberty  at 
Maestric;  •7.  He  is  made  a  cleric  by  his  uncle,  St.  Martin,  Bishop 
of  Tours;    8.  He  pursues  his  studies  in  the  Island  of  Lerins;    9.  He 


•      Wm-Hm^ 


4 

I 


FIFTH  AVENUE  TO  THE  PLAZA  201 

• 

is  ordained  a  priest   by   Bishop   Sancaut;     10.  He  sets   out   for   Rome;' 
t  II.  He    receives    the    blessing    of    Pope    Celestine;      12.    He    is    conse- 

I  crated  Bishop  by  St.   Amateur;     13.  He  visits  St.  Germain  d'Auxerpcs; 

14.  He    converts    Dichu    and    his    family    on    his    arrival    in    Ireland; 
>^  15.  He    gives    Holy    Communion    to    Princesses    Ethna    and    Fathlena; 

16.  He   raises   Malfric   from   the  dead;     17.  The  death  of   St.   Patrick; 

18.  Angels    singing    his    funeral    dirge. 

To   left  and   right  of   St.    Patrick's   Window  are,   38.      St.   John's 

Window,    and    39.    St.    Luke's    Window     (four    episodes    each);    west 

wall   of   transept:      40.    St.   Patrick   preaching   to   an   assembly   of    Irish 

peasaiits.     This  window  was  the  gift  of  James  Renwick,  the  architect 

I  of    the    cathedral;    and    the    scene    below    shows    him    submitting    his 

I  plans  to   Archbishop   Hughes;    Cardinal   McClosky   stands   in   the  fore- 

I  ground. 

Continuing  west  along  south  wall  of  nave:  41.  Window  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception,  commemorating  the  proclamation  of  this 
doctrine  by  Pius  IX;  42.  St.  Henry  in  th«  battle  against  the 
Slavonians;  43.  The  Annunciation;  44.  Window  of  St.  Elizabeth,  St. 
Andrew  and   St.   Catherine;    45.  Window  of  St.   Vincent  de  Paul. 

The  Chapels  and  Altars.  There  are  nearly  a  score  of 
these,  beginning  of  course  with  the  High  Altar.  The  reredos, 
33  ft.  wide  by  50  ft.  high,  was  carved  and  finished  in  Poitiers 
stone  at  St.  Brieuc,  France.  In  the  centre  tower,  in  a  niche, 
is  a  statue  of  St.  Patrick,  by  /.  Sibbel.  The  altar  proper 
is  by  Sig.  Carimini,  and  was  made  in  Rome,  Italy.  Niches 
and  panels  in  front  of  the  bottom  part  of  the  altar  contain 
statues  of  the  evangelists  and  bas-reliefs  of  the  Last  Supper, 
the  Carrying  of  the  Cross,  and  the  Agony  in  the  Garden, 
all  of  the  purest  Carrara  marble.  The  tabernacle  is  decorated 
with  Roman .  mosaics ;  its  door  of  gilt  bronze  is  set  with 
garnets  and  emeralds.  The  entire  cost  was  $35,000,  the  gift 
of  His  Eminence,  Cardinal  McClosky. 

Other  Chapels.  The  first  chapel,  beginning  at  the  northwest 
corner  of  the  nave,  is  at  present  used  tor  baptisms.  Behind  the 
font  is  a  painting  ef  The  ISaptism  of  Our  Lord.  Adjoining  is  the 
Coleman  Chapel,  a  memorial  to  the  Coleman  family.  The  altar,  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Bernard  and  St.  Bridget,  has  for  background  a  perfect 
reproduction  of  the  doorway  of  St.  Bernard's  Chapel,  Mellifont, 
County  Louth,  Ireland,  built  A.  D.,  z  142.  The  marbles  used  are 
Eschallion,  Verde  Calabrese  and  Sienna.  (Architect,  Henry  Glent- 
worth).  3.  St.  John  de  la  Salle  Chapel:  the  altar  is  Gothic,  the 
reredos  of  Eschallion,  with  columns  of  Mexican  onyx.  The  statue 
of  the  saint  is  of  Carrara  marble.  4.  Chapel  of  St.  Augustine:  the 
altar  is  of  Carrara  marble  with  decorations  of  Mexican  onyx  and 
Sienna  marble.  5.  Chapel  of  St.  Veronica:  the  altar  is  of  Carrara, 
trimmed  with  Pratrana  onyx,  from  Mexico.  ^  We  have  now  reached 
the  north  transept,  on  the  north  wall  of  which  are  niches  for  ei^ht 
statues  of  saints,  six  of  wihch  are  alreadv  in  place:  in  the  upper  tier, 
west  of  portal,  St.  Dominic,  founder  of  the  Dominican  Order;  east 
of  portal,  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  the  greatest  Doctor  of  the  Church; 
in  the  lower  tier  arc  the  tour  greatest  Fathers  of  the  Eastern  Church: 
St.  Athanaslus,  St.  Gregory  Nazianzen,  St.  Basil  the  Great  and  St. 
John  Chrysostom,  the  four  last  named  statues  being  'by  /.  Massey 
Rhind.  In  the  northeast  comer  of  this  transept  begin  the  fourteen 
Stations  of  the  Cross,  three  on  each  side  of  the  portal,  the  seventh 
on  west  wall  of  transept,  and  the  rest  of  the  series  contiuing  in  cor- 


I 


202  RIDER'S  NEW  YQRK  CITY 

responding  positions  in  the  south  transept.  They  are  of  the  finest 
flrrade  of  Caen  stone,  and  were  executed  in  Holland  bv  the  Stolzen- 
berg  Company,  from  designs  by  Dr.  Cuypers,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000.  :^ 

On  the  east  side  of  the  north  transept  is  the  Holy  Family  Altar, 
designed  by  James  Renwick.  Containuing  down  the  north  chancel 
aisle,  we  reach,  at  the  extreme  eastern  end  of  the  cathedral,  the  Lady 
Chapel,  flanked  on  north  and  south  by  the  two  semi-octagonal  chapels 
of  (i)  St.  Michael  and  St.  Louis,  and  (2)  St.  Elizabeth.  The  Lady 
Chapel  is  at  present  lighted  by  plain  glass  windows;  but  a  series 
of  figured  windows  have  been  planned,  designed  to  set  forth  the 
fifteen  Mysteries  of  the  Rosary.  The  altar  in  the  St.  Michael  and 
St.  Louis  Chapel  is  in  the  French  Gothic  style  of  the  13th  century, 
and  contains  statues  of  the  two  saints.  It  was  designed  by,  Charles 
T.  Matthews.  The  altar  of  St.  Elizabeth  Chapel,  also  hv  Matthews,  is 
in  TSth  century  French  Gothic  and  was  executed  by  Paolo  Medici  of 
Rome,  Italy. 

Return'ng  west/  along  the  south  chancel  transept,  we  reach, 
beneath  the  St.  Agnes  window,  St.  Joseph's  Altar,  the  window  and 
altar  both  being  the  gifts  of  Mrs.  Agnes  Maitland.  On  the  east 
wall  of  the  south  transept  is  the  bronze  Altar  of  the  Sacred  Heart. 
To  n'eht  and  left  are  bronze  statues  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Pari,  given 
bv  His  Holiness,  Pius  IX.  The  altar"  itself  was  the  gift  of  Cardinal 
McClosky. 

On  the  south  wall  of  the  transept  are  eight  statues.  In  the 
upper  tier  arc,  from  left  to  right.  St.  Gregory  the  Great,  St. 
Francis  de  Sales,  St.  Ambrose,  St.  Jerome;  in  the  lower  tier:  St. 
Anselmus,  St.  Bernard,  St.  Bonaventure  (the  great  Doctor  of  the 
Franciscan  Order>.  St.  Alphonsus  Liguori  ^founder  of  the  Congre- 
gation of  the  Most  Holv  Redeemer).  These  last  four  are  by 
Mr.    Sibbel. 

Continuing  along  the  south  aisle  of  the  nave,  we  pass:    the  Chapel  ^ 

of  St.  Stanislaus,  designed  by  Peter  Thin:  the  Chapel  of  St.  John 
the  Evangelist,  containing  an  altar  of  dark  Sienna  marble,  designed 
by  Renwick:  the  Chapel  of  St.  Anthony  of  Padua,  also  by  Renvnck. 
with  an  altar  of  Sienna  and  Carrara  marble;  and  lastly  a  chapel 
at  present  devoted  to  the  Holy  Water  Well.  Above  the  well  is  a 
painting  of  the  Marriage  Feast  of  Cana. 

On  the  south  wall  of  the  nave,  near  the  main  entrance  hangs 
The  Flight  into  Egypt,  by  Pedro  de  Moya;  on  west  wall  (on  each 
side  of  central  portal)  good  copies  of  the  Sistine  Madonna  and  the 
Transfiguration,  by  Raphael;  north  wall.  Doubting  Thomas. 

Opposite  the  Cathedral,  on  the  W.  side,  No.  626,  was 
until  recently  the  site  of  the  residence  of  the  late  Benjamin 
Altman.    It  is  now  occupied  by  the  new  De  Pinna  Building. 

On  51st  St..  N.  E.  corner,  is  the  Union  Club,  the  oldest 

of  the  fashionable  clubs,  and  the  first  in  the  city  modeled 

after  the  London  clubs. 

It  was  organized  in  1826,  and  was  first  housed  at  343  Broadway. 
From  here  it  moved  successively  to  376  Broadway,  691  Broadway  aiid 
to  the  N.  W.  corner  of  sth  Ave.  and  21st  St.,  from  which  it  removed 
to  its  present  abode.  Its  founders  include  many  of  the  most 
distinguished  families  in  the  early  annals  of  the  city,  including  the 
Beekmans,  Kings,  Schuylers,  Livingstons,  Stuyvesants,  Griswoldf,  and 
Astors. 

No.  645  is  the  residence  of  Wm.  B.  Osgood  Field;  No. 
647,  Robert  Goelet. 


FIFTH  AVENUE  TO  THE  PLAZA  203 

Between  51st  and  53rd  Sts.,  on  the  W.  side  are  the 
Vanderbilt  twin  residences,  built  by  the  late  W.  H.  Vander* 
bilt,  brownstone  buildings  connected  by  s^n  entrance  struc- 
ture, which  were  for  years  the  largest  and  most  costly 
dwelling-houses  in  New  York. 

The  northerly  house  was  built  for  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  daughter, 
Mrs.  William  D.  Sloane;  the  southerly  one  was  occupied  by  Mr.  Van- 
derbilt himself,  and  later  by  his  widow.  Mr.  Henry  C.  Frick  lived 
in  it  for  a  time,  while  his  own  costly  residence  at  71st  st.  was  being 
completed.  It  is  now  undergoing  extensive  Alterations,  and  will  be 
occupied  by  Frederick  W.  Vanderbilt. 

At  .s;2nd  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  is  the  Indiana-stone  house 
of  W,  K.  Vanderbilt,  designed  by  R.  M.  Hunt,  in  the  style  of 
a  French  ch&teau  of  the  isth-i6th  century  design.  The  carv- 
ings on  the  doorway  and  window  above  it  are  especially  fine. 
Mr.  W.  K.  Vanderbilt,  Jr.,  lives  in  the  adjoining  house. 

On  the  W.  side  of  5th  Ave.  at  53d  St.  is  the  new  *St 

Thomas's  Church  (P.  E.).  built  in  191 1,  f rom  olans  by  Cram, 

Goodhue  and  Ferguson.    The  style  is  adapted  French  Gothic; 

and  carried  out  with  a  spirit  and  originality  that  make  it 

one   of   the    few    notable   modern  examples  of  this  style  in 

the  city. 

The  exterior  is  of  white  lime  stone  from  Bowling  Green,  Kentucky: 
the  inteVtor  is  of  Kentucky  yellow  limestone.  The  vaulting  is  ot 
Guastavino  tile.  The  lofty  nave,  with  its  heavy  columns,  is  very 
impressive. 

H18TOSY.  St.  Thomas's  Church  was  founded  in  i8a.^.  In  1867 
the  present  site  was  secured,  and  a  new  edifice  erected,  from"  desisms 
by  Richard  Upjohn.  For  nearly  two  generations  this  was  the  leading 
fashionable  Episcopal  church  of  New  York,  and  •  especially  notable 
for  its  many  aristocratic  weddings.  It  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  the 
summer  of  1905*  the  loss  involving  the  beautiful  art  .works  by  La 
Farge:  in  the  chancel  a  representation  in  bronze  of  the  Adoration 
of  the  Cross;  to  right  and  left  two  paintings:  i.  Mary  meeting  the 
Shining  Angels  in  the  Garden;  2.  The  Resurrection.  In  the  autumn,  six 
wedcs  after  the  building  was  destroyed,  when  the  congrejg^tion  re- 
turned to  the  city,  a  wooden  structure  was  ready  to  receive  them.  The 
new  church  was  built  without  interfering  with  the  services  during  the 
following  years.  One  summer  the  wooden  structure  was  removed  and 
again  replaced  in  the  fall  when  the  church  was  again  open. 

The  scheme  of  decoration  is  quite  elaborate  and  when  completed 
will  be  of  much  interest.  The  left  entrance  is  the  Bride's  Door,  and 
is  surmounted  with  a  garland  of  Gothic  foliage  composed  of  convention- 
alized orange  blossoms.  Carved  on  each  side  of  the  niche  above  the 
keystone  is  a  "true-loverVknot."  Few  visitors  note  the  sly  touch  of 
irony  which,  by  a  few  strokes-  of  the  chisel  has  converted  the  lover's 
knot  on  the  northerly  side  into  an  unmistakable  dollar  sign.  Eventually, 
the  doorway  will  be  further  decorated  with  a  statue  of  St.  Joseph, 
patron  saint  of  brides,  and  with  two  bas-reliefs,  The  Marriage  of 
Isaac  and  Rebecca,  and  the  Marriage  at  Cana. 

The  great  central  door,  undecorated  as  yet,  is  destined,  according 
to   plans   already    announced,   to    be   the   most    richly   adorned   church- 
doorway    in    New    York.      It    is   to    symbolize    'The    Way";    and    the 


204  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

dividing  pier  will  support  a  statue  of  <  the  Lord,  and,  together  with 
the  tympanum,  will  symbolize  the  two  natures  (human  and  divine)  in 
the  person  of  Christ.  The  thirty-three  bosses  in  the  molding  of  the 
arch  will  contain  scenes  covering  the  entire  history  of  the  church. 

On  the  E.  side  between  53rd  and  54th  Sts.  live:  675, 
Samuel  Untermyer;  677^  Cornelius  Vanderbilt;  681,  former 
home  of  the  late  Levi  P.  Morton;  683,  the  Criterion  Club. 

Between  54th  and  55th  Sts.,  W.  side,  live  M.  McK. 
Twomhly  at  No.  684.  Just  off  the  Avenue,  at  4  W.  54th  St., 
is  the  home  of  John  D.  Rockefeller.  His  brother,  William, 
lives  on  the  N.  E.  corner  of  54th  St.,  and  John  Rockefeller, 
Jr.,  lives  at  13  W.  54th  St. 

On  the  N.  W.  corner  S4th  St.  is  the  University  Club,  a 

granite  building,  decorated  with  18  college  shields,  designed 

by  McKim,  Mead,  and  White. 

It  was  incorporated  in  1865,  "for  the  promotion  of  literature  and 
art,  by  establishing  and  maintaining  a  library,  reading  room  and 
gallery  of  art,  and  by  such  other  means  as  shall  be  expedient  for  such 
purposes."  The  membership  is  limited  to  graduates  of  colleges  or 
universities  where  a  course  of  three  years  is  required;  to  distinguished 
men  who  have  received  honorary  degrees:  and  to  graduates  of  West 
Point  and  Annapolis. 

The  S.  W.  corner  55th  St.  is  occupied  by  the  Gotham 
Hotel  (p.  11),  a  house  especially  admirable  for  guest«;  re- 
maining an  extended  period,  and  the  S.  E.  by  the  5*/.  Regis 
Hotel  (p.  7),  a  superlatively  luxurious  house,  planned  and 
run  for  the  comfort  of  multi-millionaires.  {Trowbridge  & 
Living  ton,  architects).  In  the  Palm  Room  is  a  fine  mural, 
The  Story  of  Psyche,  by  Robert  V.  V,  Sewell.  Among  its* 
other  decorations  the  hotel  possesses  several  17th  Centurv 
Brussels  tapestries,  woven  by  /.  Van  Zeunen. 

On  the  N.  W.  corner  of  55th  St.  is  the  Fifth  Avenue 
Presbyterian  Church,  long  known  familiarly  as  "Dr.  Hall's 
Church,"  Dr.  John  Hall  having  been  in  his  time  one  of  New 
York's  most  distinguished  preachers.  The  edifice  is  of  brown 
stone,  and  in  style  is  a  simple  adaptation  of  French  Gothic 

From  57th  to  58th  Sts.,  the  block  on  the  W.  side  is  occu- 
pied by  the  huge  residence  of  Mrs.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt, 
designed  by  George  E.  Post.  It  is  a  red  brick  edifice  with 
grey  facings  in  the  French  chateau  style  of  the  i6-i7th  cen- 
turies, and  contains  a  huge  ballroom.  Diagonally  across, 
S.  E.  corner  of  57th  St.,  is  the  new  house  of  Henry  E. 
Huntington, 

At  59th  St.,  on  the  W.  side  of  5th  ave.,  Central  Park 
begins.  The  large  open  square  facing  the  main  entrance 
to  the  Park,  and  extending  from  s8th  to  59th  st.  and  westward 


MADISON  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.         205 

about  200  ft.  is  the  Plasa.  A  large  oval  space  in  the  centre 
of  the  Plaza  is  occupied  by  the  Pulitzer  Memorial  Fountain, 
erected  in  1915  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Joseph  Pulitzer, 
for  many  years  proprietor  of  the  New  York  Wold.  {^Thomas 
Hastings,  architect;   Karl  Bitter,   sculptor.) 

From  the  brim  of  the  lofty  urn  water  falls  in  a  fine  spray,  first 
into  an  upper,  and  then  into  a  lower  octagonal  basin,  and  thence,  from 
the  lips  of  conventionalized  sea-shells  nows  northward  from  basin 
to  basin  in  a  series  of  cascades.  The  whole  structure  is  surmounted 
by  a  bronze  figure  of  a  nymph,  bearing  a  basket  laden  with  the  fruits 
of  the  earth. 

Facing  the  fountain,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Park,  is  an 
♦equestrian  statue  of  William  Tecumseh  Sherman  (1820- 
1901),  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens. 

This  statue  is  of  heroic  size,  and  of  gilded  bronze.  In  front 
marches  a  winged  figure,  holding  a  palm-branch;  her  right  hand  is 
uplifted  and  points  forward. 

The  huge  building  on  the  W.  is  the  *Plaza  Hotel,  perhaps 
the  highest-priced  and  most  luxurious  of  all  the  hotels,  erected 
to  supply  to  the  travelers  the  same  comfort  which  is  enjoyed 
by  millionaires  in  their  homes.  It  is  patronized  by  the  very 
rich,  both  of  America  and  Europe,  and  is  popular  for  elabo- 
rate social  functions.  The  house  contains  many  apartment 
suites  for  permanent  guests.  The  Tea  Room,  under  a  glass 
dome,  set  with  palms,  is  especially  attractive  (p.  8). 

At  the  west  end,  on  the  59th  at.  side,  is  the  bar-room.  The  bar 
itself  is  a  monumental  affair,  finished  in  deeply  carved  Flemish  oak 
and  surmounted  by  three  great  arches  of  solid  woodwork.  On  the 
wall  between  these  arches  are  mural  paintings  representing  three 
celebrated  castles  on  the  Rhine  by  Charles  M.  Shean. 

Facing  the  Plaza,  on  the  E.  side,  S.  E.  corner  of  5th  ave., 
is  the  Hotel  Savoy,  another  first-class  hotel,  built  from 
designs  by  R.  S.  Townsend  (p.  12).  Opposite,  on  the  N., 
is  the  Hotel  Netherland  (p.  12).  It  contains  two  interest- 
ing historical  paintings:  i.  The  Purchase  of  Manhattan; 
2.  Stuyvesant  Receiving  the  English  Terms  of  Surrender. 

(For  Central  Park,  see  p.  301 :  for  Upper  Fifth  avenue, 
p.  329). 

V.     Madison  Avenue  North  to  Fifty-Ninth  Street 

The  sts.  lying  to  the  E.  of  5th  ave.,  and  parallel,  in  the  section 
betw.  14th  St.  and  Harlem  are:  Madison  ave.,  4th  ave.,  becoming  Park 
ave.  at  34th  st.;  Lexington  ave.;  3d  ave.;  2d  ave.;  ist  ave.;  ave.  A; 
ave.  B  (East  End  ave.).  The  most  important  of  these,  Madison  ave., 
runs  from  E.  23d  St.  to  the  Harlem  river  at  E.  138th  st. 

Madison  avenue  was  formerly  one  of  the  finest  residen- 
tial streets  in  the  city,  ranking  second  only  to  Sth  ave. 
Indeed,  when  William  Allen  Butler  wrote  his  famous  poem, 


2o6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

•'Nothing  to  Wear,"  half  a  century  ago,  satirizing  the  vanities 
of  the  fashionable  set,  he  was  careful  to  designate  his  heroine 
as  "Miss  Flora  McFlimsey  of  Madison  Square,"  because 
this  at  once  stamped  her  social  position.  .  In  recent  years, 
however,  the  avenue  has  been  invaded  by  retail  shops;  and 
since  4th  ave.  has  been  given  over  to  the  modern  business 
loft,  Madison  ave.  has  already  begun  to  follow  suit. 

On  the  E.  side,  at  No.  i  Madison  ave.,  rises  the  ♦Metro- 
politan Life  Insurance  Building,  one  of  the  structural 
wonders  of  the  world  (A/.  Le  Brun  and  Son,  architects). 
The  tower  was  completed  in  1908. 

The  main  building,  eleven  stories  high,  occupies  the  entire  block 
bounded  by  Madison  and  4th  Aves.,  23d  and  24th  Sts.  The  building 
it  of  the  early  Renaissance  style  of  architecture  of  blue-white  Tuckahoe 
marble.  The  floors  are  granolithic  throughout,  and  almost  no  wood  is 
used  in  the  building.  The  hallways  of  the  lower  stories  are  finished 
with  beautiful  marble  and  bronze  grillwork.  Note  especially  the  spacious 
and  beautifully  carved  marble  foyer  at  the  .main  (Madison  Ave.) 
entrance,  and  spacious  stairs  leading  to  the  Metropolitan  Company's 
main  <>ffice  on  the  second  floor.  A  broad  arcade  traverses  the  building 
from  east  to  west,  lined  with  attractive  shops.  More  than  2000  per- 
sons are  ^aid  to  be  employed  in  the  building,  two-thirds  of  whom  are 
women  and   girls. 

The  chief  feature  of  interest,  however,  is  the  Tower,  at  the  N.  W. 
corner  of  the  structure.  It  is  75  ft.  by  85  ft.  at  the  base,  and  rises 
700  ft.,  comprising  (inclusive  of  the  basement)  52  stones.  Electric 
elevators  run  to  the  44th  floor,  from  which  steps  lead  to  the  Observa- 
tion Gallery  at  the  45th.  The  view  on  a  clear  day  is  rivaled  only  by 
that  from  the  Wool  worth  Building.  Admission,  50  c.  Tickets  may 
be  had  in  corridor,  opposite  the  tower  elevators.  The  best  time  to 
choose  is  when  the  wind  is  from  the  northwest. 

A  conspicuous  feature  of  the  tower  is  its  huge  clock  with  four 
immense  dials,  one  on  each  side.  It  is  driven  by  electricity,  and  is 
placed  350  ft*  above  the  sidewalk.  Its  dials,  of  reinforced  concrete, 
faced  with  mosaic  tile,  are  each  26^  ft.  in  diameter,  with  figures  4  ft. 
high.  The  minute  hand,  17  ft.  long,  weighs  1000  lbs.  and  the  hour 
hand,  13  1-3  ft.  lon^;,  750  lbs.  A  master's  clock  on  the  ground 
floor  controls  its  entire  mechanism,  and  that  of  100  other  clocks 
throughout  the  building.  In  connection  with  the  clock  is  a  chime 
of  bells:  D  flat,  £  flat.  F  flat,  and  G,  varying  in  weight  from  7000 
to  15,000  lbs.  An  impact  of  200  lbs.  on  the  D  flat  bell  sounds  the 
hours  while  the  Handel  chimes  ring  out  the  half  and  quarter  hours.  At 
night  electrical  flashes  from  the  summit  of  the  tower  announce  the 
hour  and  quarter  hour  in  addition  to  the  chimes.  The  hours  are 
flashed  in  white,  the  quarter  hours  in  i,  2,  3,  or  4  red  flashes,  re- 
spectively.    These  lights  may  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  20  miles. 

N.  of  the  Metropolitan  Building,  at  24th  st.,  is  the  Madi- 
son Avenue  Presbyterian  Church,  known  as  "Dr.  Parkhurst's 
Church,"  from  its  pastor.  It  was  designed  by  Stanford  White 
and  built  in  1906,  when  the  church  had  to  leave  the  site  now 
occupied  by  the  Metropolitan  Building. 

It  was  the   last  important  buildins  designed   by  the  late  Stanford 
IV kite.     Note  the  pediment  in  colorea   faiance,   by  A.  A.    IVeinmonu; 


MADISON  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.         207 

also,  as  a  minor  detail,  the  unusual  nature  of  the  bricks  used  in  the 
outer  walls,  many  of  which  are  marked  with  the  sign  of  the  cross, 
and  so  placed  as  to  form  ornamental  patterns.  The  church  contains 
mural  paintings  and  windows  by  Louis  C.  Tiffany. 

£.  on  the  N.  side  of  24th  St.  is  the  Metropolitan  Life 

Annex,    containing,    among   other    departments,    its   printing 

offices. 

Some  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  company's  operations  may  be 
obtained  from  a  view  of  its  extensive  press-rooms,  which  may  be 
seen  through  the  windows  at  the  street  level. 

One  block  north,  at  the  upper  corner  of  25th  St.,  wc 
reach  **The  AppellatI:  Court  House.  The  edifice,  the  home 
of  the  Appellate  Division  of  the  Supreme  Court  for  the  City 
and  County  of  New  York,  designed  by  James  Brown  Lord. 
and  completed  in  1900,  is  architecturally  one  of  the  buildings 
of  which  the  city  is  justly  proud.  Its  cost,  including  furnish- 
ings, is  estimated  at  about  $750,000.  At  the  main  entrance, 
on  25th  St.,  are  two  symbolic  statues,  by  Frederick  W.  Ruck- 
stuhl:  I.,  (west)  Wisdom.  A  marble  figure  of  heroic  size, 
with  long  matted  beard,  and  an  open  tome  in  his  lap: 
"Every  law  not  based  on  wisdom  is  a  menace  to  the  state." 
2.  (east)  Force.  A  marble  figure  seated,  dressed  in  armor, 
with  a  sword  across  his  knees:  "We  must  not  use  force  till 
just  law£  are  defied." 

The  remaining  exterior  sculptures  are  as  follows:  On  the  asth  street 
facade:  Above  the  windows  within  the  portico,  two  groups  by  Maxi- 
milian  M.  Schwartsott  (1855  ):  (i)  west,  Morning  and  Ni^ht,  life- 
size,  half  reclining  nude  figures  of  a  man  and  a  woman;  to  right  and 
left  respectively,  cartouches  of  a  sun  and  a  crescent  moon.  (2)  Noon 
and  Evening,  nude  figures  of  a  youth  and  a  maiden;  to  right  and  left, 
cartouches  of  a  sun  and  a  bat. 

Pediment  figures.  In  the  centre  of  the  pediment  above  the  portico 
is  the  figure  of  a  woman  enthroned  in  classic  garb,  holdine  tablets: 
In  her  right  hand  is  "Lex  Scripta,"  in  her  left^  "Lex  Tradita."  At 
the  sides  of  the  throne  are  kneeling  male  figures  in  armor,  one  bearing 
a  sword  and  wreath,  the  other  a  sword  and  shield,  symbolizing  the 
Triumph  of  the  Law.     (By  Charles  Henry  Niehaus.) 

Figures  of  roof  balustrade,  from  left  to  right  representing  the 
great  law  givers  of  history:  (i)  Mohammed,  570-632,  founder  of 
Mohammedanism,  by  Charles  Albert  Lopes  ( 1869- 1906)  {  (2)  Zoroaster, 
660-583  B.  C.,  founder  of  Perso-Iranian  Natural  Relinon,  by  Edward 
Clark  Potter;  (3)  Alfred  the  Great,  849-901,  King  of  West  Saxons,  by 

J/}nathan   Scott   Hartley,    (1845    );    Lycurgus,    9th    century    B.    C, 

Spartan  Law  Giver,  by  George  Edwin  Bissell  (1839  );   (5)  Justice, 

heroic  size,  stands  erect,  and  with  outstretched  arms  holds  two  torches; 
on  her  right,  seated  is  a  nude  male  figure  typifying  Power;  on  her  left, 
nude  to  tne  waist,  a  figure  typifying  Study;   (6)  Solon,  638-559  B.  C, 

Athenian  Law  Giver,  by  Herbert  Adams,   08s8  );    (7)   Louis  IX, 

1215-1270,  King  of  France,  by  John  Donoghti€  (1853  );  (8)  Manu, 

by    Henry    Augustus   Lukeman    (1870    •);    (9)    Justinian,    483*565» 

Byzantine  Emperor,  by  Henry  Kirke  Bush-Brown   (1857  )• 

Madison  avenue  facade:  From  left  to  right,  (i)  Confucius,  550-478, 

by  Philip  Mxtrtiny  (1858 );  (a)  Peace,  by  Karl  Bitter  (1868-1014): 

^e  holas  a  dove  in  ^er  right  hand;   on  her  right  is  the  nude  figure 


2o8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

(1853  );    (4)   Caryatides,  supporting  the  Ionic  capitols  upon  which 

the  cornice  of  the  roof  rests:  from  life  to  right,  (1)  Winter,  (2)  Autumn, 
(3)  Summer,  (4)   Spring,  by  Thomas  Shields  Clarke. 

The  Court  House  is  open  daily,  but  a  visit  should  be 
paid  in  the  morning,  since  the  decorations  can  be  seen  to 
advantage  only  when  the  Court  is  not  in  session.  The  doors 
open  immediately  into  the  ♦Main  Hall,  the  walls  of  which 
are  lined  with  Siena  marble,  while  the  frieze  space  is  filled 
on  all  four  sides  with  allegorical  paintings.  Facing  the 
entrance  is  a  marble  bust  of  Charles  O'Connor,  by  James  W. 
A,  Macdonald.  , 

Mural  Decorations,  main  hall,  north  wall:  Transmission  of  the 
Law,  by  Henry  Siddons  Mowbray.  This  frieze  extends  along  the 
entire  north  wall,  composed  of  a  representation  of  the  Law  herself 
and  of  eight  historical  groups.  These  are  joined  by  winged  allegorical 
female  figures,  each  of  whom  holds  a  narrow  scroll.  The  background 
is  of  dark  blue,  decorated  with  the  monogram  in  large  letters  of  the 
word  LEX.  From  left  to  right  the  historic  groups  bear  the  inscriptions 
"Mosaic,"  "Egyptian,"  "Greek "  "Roman,"  "Byzantine,"  "Norman," 
"Common  Law,"  "Modern  Law." 

Main  hall,  east  wall:  Justice,  by  Robert  Reid.  She  is  represented 
by  a  central  female  figure  holding  sword  and  scales;  on  each  side  is  a 
winged  female  figure,  the  one  suckling  an  infant,  the  other  holding 
cornucopias.  Beyond  are  standing  male  figures,  on  left.  Peace;  on 
right.  Prosperity.  The  first  ^oup  to  left  of  Peace  represents  Educar 
tion;  the  second  group.  Religion.  To  the  right  of  Prosperity  are  the 
Fine  Arts.  The  south  wall  continues  the  preceding  group:  (i)  Poetry. 
(2)  Painting,  (3)  Sculpture,  (4)  Architecture,  (5)  a  seated  winged 
figure  representing  Fame. 

Main  hall,  south  wall :  To  right  and  left  of  entrance  are  two  lunettes, 
by  Charles  Yardley  Turner,  the  former  representing  Law,  the  latter 
Equity. 

Main  hall,  west  wall:  A  group  representing  the  Practical  Administra> 
tion  of  Justice  through  Law  and  Equity,  bv  Willard  Lero^  Metcatf. 
The  Banishment  of  Discord,  also  by  Metcalj,  is  a  continuation  of  the 
same  theme. 

Court  room:  This  room,  like  thre  entrance  hall,  is  richly  finished  in 
Siena  marble;  the  furniture  is  of  dark  oak,  and  finelv  carved.  The 
stained  glass  dome  and  side  windows  are  inscribed  with  the  names  of 
eminent  American  jurists,  the  prevailing  tones  being  ereen  and  yellow 
(designed  by  Maitland  Armstrong).  On  the  east  wall  are  three  large 
mural  paintings:    from   right  to   left,    (i)    The   Power   of  the   Law,  by 

Edwin  Howland  Blashfield    (1848   ).     The    Law    draws   her    sword 

in  behalf  of  appeal.  On  either  side  she  is  supported  by  magistrates  and 
figures  typifying  Roman  Law,  Canon  Law  and  Common   (Ang^o- Saxon) 

Law.      (2)    Wisdom,   by   Henry   Oliver   Walker    (1843    ).      She   is 

attended  by  Learning,  Experience,  Humility  and  Love,  and  by  Faith, 
Patience,    Doubt   and   Inspiration.      (3)    The   Justice   of   the   Law,    by 

Edward   Simmons    (1852   ).     Justice   stands,   flanked   by   Peace   at 

her  feet.  Plenty  at  her  right;  Peace  recoils  from  Brute  Force  withheld 
by  Fear.  Plenty  assists  the  Needy;  Labor  behind  her  hails  Justice; 
Mercy  (a  child)  in  foreground. 

West  wall:  The  Reign  of  Law,  by  Kenyan  Cox. 

North  and  South  walls:  The  Judicial  and  Other  Virtues,  by 
Jose^  Lauber. 

The  Courtroom  contains  five  portraits  in  oil  of  distinguished  New 
York  judges:  (i)  Noah  Davis,  Presiding  Justice,  Appellate  Court, 
1874-86,  by  Daniel  Huntington;   (2)   Daniel  Phoenix  Ingraham,  Justice 


MADISON  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.         209 

of  the  Supreme  Court,  1858-74,  by  Charles  L.  Elliott;  (3)  Charles  H. 

Van  Brunt,  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court,   (1883  )   by  Alfred  O. 

Collins;   John   R.    Brady,   Justice   of   the    Supreme   Court,    18^7-91,   by 
Thomas  LeClear;  (5)  Daniel  P.  Ingraham. 

On  the  S.  E.  corner  of  26th  st.  is  the  Manhattan  Club, 
the  leading  Democratic  Club  of  the  city.  The  club-house  is 
of  marble  and  Philadelphia  brick  with  an  elaborate  iron 
veranda,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $200,000,  from  plans  by  Thomas 
R.  Jackson.  It  was  for  a  time  the  home  of  the  University  Club. 

The  Manhattan  Club  was  founded  in  1865;  and  its  declared  pur- 
poses were  "to  advance  Democratic  principles,  to  promote  social  inter- 
course among  its  members,  and  to  provide  them  with  the  conveniences 
of  a  club-house."  Its  first  home  was  at  5th  Ave.  and  15th  St.;  in 
1891,  it  purchased  the  "Marble  Palace"  of  A.  T.  Stewart  (now  replaced 
by  the  Knickerbocker  Trust  Company),  and  later  removed  to  its 
present   abode. 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  square,  occupying  the  Jblock 
bounded  by  26th  St.,  27th  st.,  Madison  ave.,  and  4th  ave.,  is 
Madison  Square  Garden  (PI.  Ill — E4),  of  buff  brick  and  light 
terra  cotta,  erected  in  1890,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Harlem 
R.  R.  Station.  At  the  time  when  it  was  built  it  was  considered 
a  marvel  of  safety,  size  and  convenience,  but  it  has  been  sur- 
passed in  all  these  qualities.  The  structure  was  designed  by 
Stanford  White,  who  at  one  time  occupied  rooms  in  the 
tower,  and  who  met  his  death  in  the  Roof  Garden  in  1906,  at 
the  hands  of  Harry  K.  Thaw. 

The  low  granite  building  of  the  Society  for  the  Preven- 
tion of  Cruelty  to  Animals,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  26th  st. 
and  Madison  ave.,  is  open  day  and  night.  It  has  animal 
ambulances,  and  will  remove  sick  animals  upon  request.  It 
maintains  a  free  dispensar3'  and  hospital. 

The  society  was  founded  in  1866  by  Henry  Bergh  (1820-88),  a  well- 
known  humanitarian,  as  a  result  of  his  having  served  as  Secretary 
of  the  American  Legation  at  Petrograd  during^  the  vears  1863-64. 
Mr.  Bergh  was  so  deeply  impressed  by  the  Russian  lack  of  humanity 
towards  animals  that  he  awoke  to  the  fact  that  the  same  indifference 
to  the  suffering  of  dumb  beasts  existed  everywhere,  only  to  a  lets 
degree,  even  in  America.  On  his  way  home,  he  stopped  in  London 
and  there  consulted  with  the  Earl  of  Harrowby,  President  of  the 
Royal  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals  (for  Mr.  Bergh 
was  not,  as  often  stated,  the  pioneer  in  this  field,  England  having 
forestalled  him  by  several  years)  as  to  the  best  lines  on  which  to 
establish  a  similar  organization  in  the  United  States.  The  result  was 
the  incorporation  two  years  later  of  the  first  American  society  of  this 
nature,  with  a  list  of  charter  members,  including  such  prominent  names 
as.  Peter  Cooper,  James  Lenox,  Hamilton  Fish,  John  Jacob  Astor,  Jr., 
August  Belmont,  the  Harper  Brothers,  etc.  Within  comparatively  few 
years,  similar  societies  had  been  formed  in  38  other  states,  as  well  as 
in  Bras^l  and  the  Argentine  Republic. 

E.  on  27th  St.,  No.  45,  is  the  simple  gothic  Church  du 
Saint-Esprit,  a  French  P.  E.  church,  and  lineal  successor 
of  the  original  Huguenot  Church,  founded  in  Petticoat  Lane 


210  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

in  1688.  W.  on  27th  St.  is  the  Hotiel  Brotzell,  a  quiet  family 
hotel;  and  W.  on  28th  St.  the  Prince  George  and  the  Latham, 
At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  29th  St.  is  the  17-story  Emmet  Building 
(.Colt  &  Barney,  architects),  named  from  Dr.  Thomas  Addis 
Emmet,  whose  home  occupied  this  site,  and  who  was  grandson 
and  namesake  of  the  famous  Irish  patriot.  The  present  build- 
ing is  the  property  of  Robert  Emmet,  another  descendant,  and 
is  unique  in  having  the  owner's  residence  on  the  top  floor. 
Directly  opposite  is  the  Hotel  Seville. 

E.  on  29th  St.,  No.  29,  is  the  Martha  Washington  Hotel, 
(for  women  exclusively).  It  is  a  twelve-story  structure, 
extending  through  to  the  next  side-street,  and  containing  450 
rooms.  On  the  ground  floor  are  the  dining-room  and  tea- 
room, open  to  men  as  well  as  women. 

Between  30th  and  31st  Sts.,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  avenue, 
stands  what  until  lately  was  the  home  of  the  Colony  Club, 
the  most  fashionable  of  the  women's  clubs. 

Architecturally,  it  is  one  of  the  noteworthy  features  of  Madison 
Ave.  Its  main  facade,  red  brick,  with  white  colonial  columns,  must  be 
numbered  among  the  late  Stanford  White's  successful  adaptations  of  a 
special  style  to  suit  a  purpose.     Interior  decoration  by  Elsie  DeWolfe. 

E.  on  32d  St.,  No.  29,  is  the  Grolier  Club,  (organized 
1884),  the  chief  purpose  of  which  is  to  cultivate  a  taste  for 
artistic  book-making* 

The  club  takes  its  name  from  Jean  Grolier  (1479-1565)1  a  French 
bibliophile  and  connoisseur  of  book-bindings,  a  part  of  whose  rare 
collection  is  one  of  the  prized  possessions  of  the  Bibliothique  Nationale. 
From  time  to  time  the  club  gives  interesting  exhibits  (admission  by 
card  only).  Occasionally  it  publishes  books  that  are  models  of  typog- 
raphy and  are  sold  to  members  only. 

At  48  E.  34th  St.  is  the  Woman's  Suffrage  Party  head- 
quarters. At  36th  St.,  N.  E.  cor.  is  the  residence  of  the  late 
/.  Pierpont  Morgan,  Just  behind,  on  E.  36th  st.  stands  the 
*J.  Pierpont  Morgan  Library,  a  severely  classic  structure  of 
white  marble,  from  designs  by  McKxm,  Mead  and  White. 

On  the  S.  fagade,  to  R.  and  L.  of  entrance,  are  two  bas-relief  sculp- 
tured panels,  by  A.  A.  Weinmann,  symbolizing,  respectively,  Music 
inspiring  the  Allied  Arts,  and  Truth  Enlightening  the  Sciences.  Ac- 
companying Music  are  Architecture,  Sculpture,  Painting  and  the  Tex- 
tiles; while  Truth  is  accompanied  by  Literature,  Philosophy,  History, 
Oratory  and  Astronomy. 

Bronze  doors  of  Sixteenth  Century  Italian  workmanship 
open  into  a  loggia  much  admired  for  its  quiet  harmony. 
The  vaulted  ceiling  contains  decorative  paintings  by 
H.  Siddons  Mowbray,  while  the  side  walls  have  mosaic 
panelings.  The  Loggia  contains  two  Fifteenth  Century  chairs, 
two  dark  inlaid  coffers  that  for  a  while  were  on  exhibition 


MADISON  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.         211 

in  the  South  Kensington  Museum,  and  a  bronze  portrait  bust 
of  the  Marquis  of  Pescari,  ascribed  to  Benvenuto  Cellini.  At 
the  rear  of  the  Loggia,  facing  the  entrance,  is  the  Librarian's 
room.  On  the  left  or  west  side  is  the  late  Mr.  Morgan's  pri- 
vate study,  while  on  the  opposite  or  east  side  is  the  stack  room. 

From  floor  to  ceiling  the  walls  are  lined  with  shelves,  and  these, 
as  well  as  the  floors  01  the  galleries  giving  access  to  them  are  of 
glass.  The  books,  however,  are  not  enclosed  in  ^lass,  the  only  pro- 
tection being  a  light  ornamental  grill.  Special  notice  should  be  taken 
of  the  ceiling,  which  is  a  fine  example  of  Italian  Renaissance,  and  is 
from  the  Aldebrandini  Palace  in  Venice.  On  the  east  wall  of  the 
room  is  a  beautiful  Fifteenth  Century  fire-place,  and  above  it  hangs 
a  rare  Flemish  tapestry. 

Among  the  chief  features  of  this  unrivalled  private  collection  of 
literary  treasures  should  be  mentioned  the  famous  Ashbumkam  Gospels, 
said  to  have  cost  Mr.  Morgan  over  $50,000;  the  Golden  Gospels,  given 
to  Henry  VIII.  by  Leo  A.  (a  manuscript  dating  from  670,  and  con- 
tained in  a  superb  binding  attributed  to  Holbein;  the  Naples  Offices, 
which  it  took  the  great  Clovis  nine  years  to  complete,  in  a  binding 
ascribed  to  Benvenuto  Cellini;  the  Prayer  Book  of  Charles  VIII.:  and 
a  Syrian  Bible  of  the  year  750.  There  are  whole  shelves  of  Aldines 
and  Elzevirs.  The  collection  of  Bibles  includes  a  Hebrew  Bible  of 
1483,  two  Gutenbergs  and  all  the  English  Bibles  from  Coversdale  down- 
ward. There  is  a  complete  set  of  the  Shakespeare  Folios  and-  Quartos, 
and  a  noble  collection  of  Elizabethan  and  Jacobean  first  editions,  in- 
cluding Milton,  Sidney,  Spenser,  Johnson,  Sir  Thomas  Browne,  Marvel, 
and  Waller. 

But  probably  the  most  unique  part  of  the  Morgan  collection  is  its 
English  manuscripts.  These  include  nine  of  Scott's  novels,  notably 
Ivankoe;  ten  volumes  of  Dickens*  letters;  Pope's  Essay  on  Man:  Mil- 
ton's Paradise  Lost;  and  practically  all  the  manuscripts  of  Byron  known 
to  exist,  including  Don  Juan  Werner  and  Manfred.  Dickens'  Christmas 
Carol,  Burns's  Cotter's  Saturday  Night,  Zola's  Nana,  and  Dumas's 
Trois  Mousquetaires  are  also  features  of  this  inimitable  collection. 

The  library  is  not  open  to  the  public.  Admission  may  sometimes 
be  obtained  by  application  by  letter  to  the  librarian.  Miss  Belle  Greene. 

The  elevation  of  land  betw.  34th  and  426.  st.,  3d  ave.  and 

Broadway  is   called   Murray  Hill,   from   Robert  Murray,   in 

whose  farm  it  was  included. 

A  revolutionary  battle  occurred  here  on  the  isth  of  September, 
1776,  following  General  Howe's  victorious  attack  on  the  Continentals  at 
Brooklyn,  and  Washington's  retreat  to  Manhattan  Island,  landing  at 
Fulton's  Ferry,  and  subsequent  move  to  Harlem  Heights.  The  British, 
anticipating  his  move,  tried  to  cut  off  the  Continentals'  retreat  at  Kip's 
Bay  (34th  St.),  where  they  had  four  ships.  Under  the  fire  of  the 
British  ships,  the  Americans  fled  from  their  trenches  to  higher  ground 
in  the  vicinity  of  38th  st.  and  5th  ave.  Washington,  hurrying 
S.  from  Harlem  Heights,  galloped  directly  into  the  midst  of  his 
retreating  troops,  shouting,  "Take  to  the  wall!  Take  to  the  cornfield!" 
While  a  desperate  artillery  fire  was  maintained  from  a  knoll  at  about 
the  present  intersection  of  5th  ave.  and  38th  st.,  Aaron  Burr  guided 
the  rallied  Continentals  safely  through  the  meadows  and  woodlands  to 
Harlem  Heights.  Mrs.  Murray  is  said  to  have  entertained  the  British 
Governor  Tyron  and  Generals  Cornwallis,  Clinton  and  Howe  with  wine 
and  cakes,  while  Washington  and  his  troops  made  their  escaped  The 
last  Continental  soldier  had  scarcelv  passed  39th  st.  when  the  line  of 
English  was  completely  across  the  island. 


212  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

At  37th  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  is  the  house  of  Mrs.  Anson 
Phelps  Stokes;  N.  E.  corner,  Joseph  DeLamar;  S.  E.  corner, 
the  house  of  /.  P.  Morgan,  adjoining  his  late  father's  resi- 
dence at  36th  St. 

At  40th  St.,  N.  W.  corner,  are  the  Anderson  galleries. 

At  41st  St.,  S.  E.' corner,  is  the  Aero  Club.  In  41st  St., 
at  No.  40,  the  Physicians'  Club,  and  at  No.  52  the  Chemists* 
Club.  At  No.  IS  is  the  Political  Equality  League,  a  women's 
suffrage  organization. 

From  42nd  to  48th  sts.  E.  of  the  ave.,  lie  the  new  Grand  Central 
Terminal  Buildings  and  Train  Yards. 

Close  by  the  station  are  three  hotels  all  connected  with  the 
station  and  the  subway  by  underground  passages. 

The  *Belmont  (PL  IV — E4),  opposite  at  the  cor.  of  42d 
st.  and  Park  ave.,  {Warren  and  Wetmore,  architects),  is  large 
and  well  equipped,  with  pneumatic  tubes,  electric  clocks, 
vacuum  cleaning  plant,  etc.  Especially  used  by  incoming 
travelers.  (Restaurants,  p.  21).  It  is  built  of  Harvard 
brick,  resting  on  a  limestone  base  and  broken  by  balconies 
with  terra  cotta  trim. 

Interior:  The  Rotunda  is  finished  in  imitation  Caen  stone  and 
jasper  marble;  the  Main  Dining  Room  has  a  large  panel  decoration 
between  the  windows  by  Henri  Guillautne  and  M.  Pxcard;  the  Palm 
Garden  is  finished  in  Caen  stone,  with  monolithic  columns  and  pilasters 
of  Durance  iparble;  the  dome  and  pendentives  are  enriched  by  paint- 
ings of  Titania's  Dance,  from  the  "Mid-summer  Night's  Dream  (Af. 
Picard,  artist). 

The  Manhattan  (PL  IV — E3),  at  the  corner  of  42d  st. 
and  Madison  ave.  (p.  10)  has  recently  been  entirely  renovated. 
It  has  mural  decorations  by  well-known  painters.  {Henry  J. 
Hardenburg,  arch.)  The  house  is  extremely  comfortable. 
Much  patronized  by  politicians. 

It  contains  a  number  of  interesting  mural  decorations  by  well 
known  artists.  In  the  lobby  are  a  frieze  representing  The  Triumph 
of  Manhattan,  and  a  panel,  The  Gods  of  Greece,  both  by  C.  Y.  Turner; 
also  lunette  by  Kenyon  Cox,  Peace  and  Plenty.  In  the  restaurant  is 
a  landscape  frieze,  by  Frederic  Crowninshield.  In  the  bar-room.  The 
Dutch  Water  Gate,  by  Charles  M.  Shean. 

The  *BiLTM0RE  (PI.  IV — E3),  one  of  the  new  so-called 
'Terminal  Buildings"  at  43rd  and  Madison  ave.,  entrance  on 
Vanderbilt  ave.  {Warren  and  Wetmore,  architects)  is  the 
newest  and  perhaps  most  beautiful  of  New  York  hotels. 
The  style  is  modernized  Italian  Renaissance,  and  the  material 
granite,  limestone,  terra-cotta  and  brick.  The  hotel  is  brought 
into  iJarmony  with  the  other  buildings  of  the  group  by  being 
recessed,  on  the  Vanderbilt  ave.  side  above  the  6th  story,  in 


MADISON  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.         213 

a  court  which  divides  the  upper  portion  of  the  building  into 
two  towers.  The  court  forms  a  charming  garden  with  per- 
golas and  growing  flowers.    Tea  is  served  here. 

The  interior  is  decorated  and  furnished  in  excellent  taste  by  IV.  & 
J.  Shane. 

The  Main  Dining  Room  is  especially  beautiful.  Pilasters  of  pink- 
veined  Norwegian  marble  run  to  a  ceiling  of  gold,,  gray  and  white.  The 
hangings  and  upholstery  are  dark  red,  and  the  furniture  dark  oak. 
Three  crystal  electroliers  light  the  room.  The  Lobby  and  Palm  Room 
are  in  Caen  stone.  On  the  4th  floor  is  a  wonderful  Presidential  Suite, 
entered  by  a  private  elevator  from  the  station.  The  Ball  Room  on  the 
22nd  stoiy  is  3  stories  in  height,  decorated  in  gold  and  blue.  The 
Banquet  Room  on  the  Madison  ave.  side  of  the  same  floor  is  in  Italian 
Renaissance  style,  with  walls  of  Caen  stone  and  two  columns  of  green 
Cipollino  marble.  The  hotel  being  built  directly  over  the  incoming 
station,  lacks  the  basement  room  usual  to  a  hotel,  and  is  somewhat 
differently  arranged.  The  house  contains  every  convenience  and  device 
for  comfort;  no  crowding,  no  noise,  no  dust,  all  kinds  of  electric  and 
pneumatic  service,  vacuum  cleaning,  special  ventilation,  specially  filtered 
soft  water  for  bathing^  baseboards  marble,  elevator  shafts  stone,  etc., 
Turkish  baths,  swimming  pools,  gymnasiums,  hospital  and  operating 
room  with  doctor  and  nurses. 

On  the  walls  of  the  main  floor  are  nine  valuable  old  tapestries; 
in  the  main  corridor  east,  two  renaissance  tapestries,  (i)  Warriors; 
(2)  A  Court  ■  Scene;  at  west  end  of  main  corridor,  a  Louis  XIV 
tapestry  (3)  The  Marriage  Procession;  at  entrance  to  the  main  dining- 
room  (4)  Fire  as  the  Source  of  Abundance;  in  north  and  south 
corridors,  (5)  Venus  rising  from  the  sea,  (6)  The  Marriage  of  Cupid 
and  P.syche;  in  south  corridor  facing  office,  three  Medici  tapestries, 
(7)  Venus  escorting  Aeneas  from  Troy,  (8)  The  Interview  between 
Venus  and  Jupiter,   (9)   The  Departure  of  Aeneas  from  Carthage. 

Directly  N.  of  the  Biltmore  on  Vanderbilt  ave.  are  two  more  of 
the  "Terminal  group  buildings,"  the  Yale  Club  House  at  the  N.  W. 
cor.,  and  the  yanderbilt  Concourse  Office  Building  at  the  S.  W.  cor. 
of  4Sth  St. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  44th  St.  stands  the  Church  of  St. 
Bartholomew  (P.  E-),  built  in  Lombardo-gothic  style,  with  a 
lofty,  decorative  front  and  a  cupola  tower,  with  open  belfrey 
{James  Renwick,  architect).  Its  congregation  is  one  of  the 
wealthiest  in  the  city,  including  among  its  members  several 
of  the  Vanderbilt  family. 

St.  Bartholomew's  was  organized  in  1855,  in  Lafayette  PI.  The 
present  structiu-e  dates  from  1876.  Its  chief  architectural  feature, 
however,  is  its  modern  portico,  with  elaborate  bas-reliefs  and  three 
pairs  of  *Bronze  Doors,  that  some  critics  regard  as  the  finest  of  their 
kind  in  the  city.  The  materials  of  the  portico  include  shafts  of 
cipollino,  panels  of  darker  green-veined  marble,  and  red  sandstone 
delicately  fluted. 

Three  sculptors  were  entrusted  with  the  sculptures  of  the  the 
three  entrances  and  doors:  South  Door,  Herbert  Adams;  North  Door, 
Philip  Martigny;  Middle  Door,  Daniel  C.  French,  who  took  as  associate 
Andrew  O'Connor.  The  details  of  the  bas-reliefs  on  the  doors  them- 
selves and  the  stone  carvings  above  them  are  sufficiently  obvious, 
without  specific  explanation,  and  well  repay  careful  examination;  the 
middle  pair  of  doors,  for  example,  contain  in  their  several  panels: 
I.  Scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ,  the  Annunciation,  the  Adoration, 
etc. ;    2.  figures    symbolizing ,  the    Delphic    Oracle,    the    Lybian    Oracle, 


214  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

etc.;  3.  figures  representing  the  Four  Evangelists,  Matthew  and 
Luke  on  left,  John  and  Mark  on  right;  4.  The  Prophets,  Jeremiah, 
Nehemiah,  Isaiah  and  Joel.  The  portico  is  dedicated  "to  the  glory 
of  God  and  in  loving  memory  of  Cornelius  Vanderbilt."  They  were 
the  gift   of   his   wife   and   children. 

The  interior  is  polychrome;  the  Triforium,  gallery  and  clerestory 
are  carried  on  a  series  of  massive  columns  of  polished  Scotch  granite. 
There  are  some  fin^  memorial  windows;  and  over  the  altar  a  fine 
altar-piece.  The  Transfiguration,  by  the  late  Francis  Lathrop. 

The  present  St.  Bartholomew's  is  soon  to  be  vacated,  plans  for 
a  new  edifice  at  soth  St.  and  Park  Ave.  having  already  been  prepared. 
The  bronze  doors,  however,  and  other  art  features  will  be  transferred 
to   the   new   structure. 

At  45th  St.  are  the  Tiffany  Studios  on  the  S.  E.  cor. 
Public  exhibits  of  new  examples  of  windows,  etc,  in  "Favrile 
Glass,**  an  invention  of  Louis  C.  Tiffany,  are  not  infrequently 
given  (free  to  Ithe  public).  At  the  N.  E.  cor.  is  the  Railroad 
Branch  of  the  Y.M.C.A.  (p.  83). 

At  46th  St.  on  Madison  ave.  is  the  *Ritz  Carlton  Hotel 
(PI.  IV — E2),  one  of  the  chain  of  18  Ritz  hotels  extending 
all  over  the  world,  managed  by  a  central  company.  Largely 
patronized  by  foreigners  of  distinction.  The  building  is  beau- 
tiful in  architecture,  decoration,  and  furnishing.  {Warren  and 
Wetmore,  architects.) 

The  Palm  Room,  the  Main  Restaurant,  the  Ball  Room,  Banquet 
Room,  and  the  State  Suites  in  the  addition  built  in  1012  are  worth 
seeing.  The  service  is  perfect.  The  simplicity  and  good  taste  of  this 
hotel  are  in  marked  contrast  to  the  extrava^nt  ostentation  upon  which 
some  other  of  the  large  New  York  hotels  pride  themselves. 

At  the  N.  £.  cor.  of  49th  st.  and  Madison  ave.,  on  the  avenue 
facade  of  the  New  Weston  Hotel,  is  a  Tablet  marking  the  second  site 
of  Columbia  College. 

At  50th  St.,  back  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  is  the  House  of  the 
Archbishop  of  New  York-  across  the  street  is  the  triple  residential 
mansion  formerly  occupied  by  Henry  Villard  and  JVhitelaw  Reid,  the, 
design  of  which  was  copied  from  a  Florentine  palace. 

At  59th  St.  is  the  Uenox  Lyceum,  devoted  to  fairs,  exhibitions,  and 
similar  entertainments. 

VI.     Fourth  Avenue  and  Park  Avenue  North  to 

Fifty-Ninth  Street 

Fourth  avenue  begins  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Bowery, 
at  Cooper  square,  and  runs  to  34th  street,  where  it  changes 
its  name  to  Park  avenue,  which,  interrupted  by  the  Grand 
Central  Station,' (42d  to  4Sth  St.),  continues  to  the  Harlem  River. 

4th  ave.,  betw.  19th  and  30th  sts.,  offers  a  fine  opportunity 
for  viewing  the  huge  modern  loft  buildings  which  are 
peculiarly  American  architecture.  During  the  last  two  years 
some  IS  of  these  buildings  from  15  to  20  stories  in  height 
have  sprung  up.  A  partial  list  includes  the  Everett  Building 
(16  stories),  at  17th  st,  N.  W.  cor. ;  Germania  Life  Insurance 


FOURTH  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.  215 

Building  (20  stories),  at  17th  St.,  N.  E.  cor. ;  Clarendon  Building 
(20  stories);  at  i8th  St.,  S.  E.  cor.;  American  Woolen  Building 
(19  stories),  at  i8th  St.,  N.  E.  cor.;  McClure  Building  {16 
stories),  at  20th  St.,  N.  E.  cor.;  Eagle  Building  (20  stories), 
at  21  St  St.,  S.  E.  cor.;  Mills  &  Gibb  Building  (14  stories),  at 
22d  St.,  N.  W.  cor.;  Ashland  Building  (20  stories),  at  24th  st, 
S.  E.  cor.;  Hess  Building  (20  stories),  at  26th  St.,  S.  W. 
cor.;  Passavant  Building  (16  stories),  at  30th  St.,  S. W.  cor. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  20th  st.  stands  All  Soul's  Unitarian 
Churchj  organized  in  1819;  the  present  building  was  erected 
in  1858.  William  Cullen  Bryant,  Peter  Cooper  and  Joseph 
H.  Choate  worshipped  here. 

All  Souls'  is  architecturally  a  conspicuous  structure,  being  buik 
of  Caen  stone  and  red  brick  laid  alternately  in  horizontal  courses. 
In  form  it  is  a  Greek  cross,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  dome.  It  is 
said  to  be  the  earliest  example  of  Byzantine  architecture  in  New 
York.  In  the  rear,  on  20th  st.,  is  the  parsonage,  built  of  the  same 
materials    and    harmonizing    in    general    design. 

The  church  is  open  daily  through  the  doof  on  «oth  st.  It  contains 
a  full-length  bas-relief  in  bronze  of  the  former  pastor.  Dr.  Henry  W. 
Bellews,  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens;  it  is  considered  by  some  critics 
as  one  of  this  sculptor's  finest  achievements. 

At  2ist  St.,  N.  E.  corner,  is  the  Calvary  Episcopal  Church, 

a  brown-stone,  three  gabled  structure,  in  early  English  style, 

erected  in  1847  at  a  cost  of  $80,000.  (James  Renwick,  arch.) 
The  interior  is  interesting.  Note  especially  the  lofty  groined  roof, 
supported  on  slender  columns;  the  windows  also  deserve  attention, 
especially  the  one  behind  the  altar;  it  is  a  large,  monochrome  window, 
of  rich  crimson  glass,  in  five  panels,  forming  a  semi-circle.  It  repre- 
sents Mount  Calvary,  and  the  time  is  early  morning,  with  the  sun 
just  appearing  over  the  horizon.     The  church  is  open  daily. 

Three  low  buildings  and  one  sky-scraper  mark  the  four 
corner  of  22d  St.:  on  the  N.  W.  corner,  the  Mills  and  Gibb 
office  building;  S.  W.  corner,  the  Bank  for  Savings,  the  first 
savings  bank  in  the  city;  S.  E.  corner,  the  Church  Mission 
House;  and  on  the  N.  E.  corner,  the  United  Charities  Build- 
ing, erected  by  John  S.  Kennedy,  containing  various  charitable 
organizations,  including  the  Charities  Organisation  Society, 
the  Association  for  Improving  the  Condition  of  the  Poor,  and 
the  Children's  Aid  Society.  Here  are  also  the  offices  of  the 
Outlook  and  the  Survey  magazines  and  the  School  of  Philan- 
thropy, a  training  school  for  social  and  civic  workers,  con- 
ducted by  the  Charities  Organization  Society,  offering  a  two- 
year  course  and  affiliated  with  Columbia  University. 

.  The  Charities  -Organisation  Society  gives  relicdE  to  poor  families 
after  careful  investigations  made  bjr  trained  workers.  Twelve  district 
offices  are  distributed  through  the  city,  and  a  woodyard  and  a  laundry 
are  maintained  to  afford  work  for  aole-bodied  unemployed  applicants. 
At  the  central  office  at  105  £.  ^ad  St.,  the  Joint  Apphcation  Bureau 
(carried  on -jointly  with  the  New  York  Association  for  Improving  the 
Condition  of  the  Poor)  is  open  from  0  a.  m.  to  midnight  for  immwliate 


2i6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

relief  and  later  investigation  and  assistance  to  homeless  applicants.  A 
Social  Service  Exchange  keeps  on  file  the  records  of  all  applicants  jor 
relief  at  the  various  agencies  and  societies,  and  under  certain  conditions 
gives  information  to  other  societies. 

The  New  York  Association  for  Improving  the  Condition  of  the 
Poor  (organized  1843,  incorporated  1848)  is  supported  entirely  by  gifts. 
While  it  maintains  an  active  Department  of  Relief  (open  from  9  a.  m. 
to  midnight),  and  the  Joint  Application  Bureau  (in  conjunction  with 
the  Chanty  Organization  Society),  its  most  interesting  features  are 
investigations  into  the  causes  of  poverty  and  experiments  in  preventive 
relief.  It  supports  the  Sea  Breeze  Hospital  at  West  Coney  Island  for 
little  children  with  tuberculosis  of  the  bones  and  glands.  The  salt-air 
treatment  for  non-pulmonary  tuberculosis  has  been  excellently  demon- 
strated here.  The  home  treatment  of  tuberculosis  is  being  worked  out 
in  the  East  River  Homes  in  E.  78th  st.  by  John  Jay  Park  (p.  339). 
An  effort  to  reduce  the  cost  of  living  is  beins  made  by  experiments  in 
co-operative  buying.  The  Department  of  Child  Welfare  supervises  the 
school  luncheons  now  being  served  at  cost  price  in  seventeen  of  the 
grade  schools.  It  also  promotes  the  increase  of  dental  work  and  nose 
and  throat  surgery  among  school  children. 

The  New  York  City  Mission  and  Tract  Society  (organized  1827) 
holds  religious  services  in  various  mission  churches  in  the  poorer  dis- 
tricts and  maintains  philanthropic  activities. 

The  American  Missionary  Association  (organized  1846)  supports 
missions  all  over  the  world. 

The  building  of  the  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty 
to  Children  occupies  the  northern  portion  of  the  block. 

This  society,  founded  in  1875  through  the  instrumentality  of  Henry 
Bergh,  founder  of  the  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to 
Animals,  is  said  to  owe  its  origin  to  a  curious  circumstance.  In 
1874,  a  social  worker  in  the  slums  found  a  woman  dying  in  an  east 
side  tenement,  who  said  that  she  could  die  quite  happy,  but  for  the 
niehtly  screams  of  a  little  girl  known  as  Mary  Ellen,  wnose  stepmother 
habitually  beat  her.  The  social  worker  applied  first  to  the  police, 
but  was  told  that  she  lacked  sufficient  evidence:  next^  she  tried  the 
charitable  organizations,  but  the  case  lay  outside  their  jurisdiction; 
private  philanthropists  said  that  "it  was  daneerous  to  interfere  between 
parent  and  child.'  At  last  she  appealed  to  Mr.  Bergh,  with  the  result 
that  Mary  Ellen  was  rescued,  the  stepmother  received  a  prison  sentence, 
and  the  society  was  so  overrun  with  similar  appeals  that  its  own  legiti- 
mate work  was  hampered.  The  sequel  was  the  founding  of  the  new 
society,  which  within  the  past  39  years  has  received  and  investigated 
more  than  326,000  complaints,  cared  for  upward  of  980,000  children, 
and  prosecuted  more  than  150,000  cases. 

From  23rd  to  24th  sts.,  the  W.  side  of  the  ave.  is  taken  up  by 
the  rear  of  the  Metropolitan  Life  Insurance  Building  (p.  206),  and  from 
27th  to  28th  sts.  by  the  rear  of  Madison  Square  Garden   (p.  209). 

At  33d  St.  is  Park  Avenue  Hotel  (p.  9).  This  building,  erected 
by  A.  T.  Stewart,  was  an  early  experiment  in  working-women's  hotels; 
but  at  that  time  such  a  hotel  could  not  be  made  to  pay.  (John  Kellum, 
Architect). 

The  huge  barracks,  on  the  E.  side,  facing  on  34th  st.  is 
the  Armory  of  the  71st  Regiment  and  the  First  Signal  Corps. 
The  original  armory  was  burned  in  1902.  The  present  struc- 
ture is  valued  at  $450,000  and  the  land  at  $1,220,000.  The 
headquarters  of  the  First  Brigade  is  here. 

Opposite  is  the  ♦Vandepbilt  Hotel  (Warren  and  Wetmore, 


PARK  AVE.  TO  FIFTY-NINTH  ST.  217 

architects).  Guides  for  the  building  are  provided  at  the 
office  (fee  expected).  The  house  is  built  in  i8th  century  style 
of  architecture  and  is  designed  and  furnished  in  excellent 
taste.  It  offers  special  facilities  for  automobile  parties,  dress- 
ing rooms  on  Mezzanine  Floor,  garage  for  guests'  cars,  touring 
cars  rented  by  the  week,  day,  or  hour,  special  suite  for  private 
entertainments  (rates  upon  request),  etc.  (Rates,  p\  7;  Res- 
taurant, p.  20.)  » 

Note  especially  the  tcrra-cotta  Grill  Room,  the  Lounge  and -Entrance 
Lobby,  and  the  Japanese  Room.  In  the  Lounge  is  a  Relief  Frieze 
sculptured  by  Beatnce  Ast^r  Chandler. 

Opposite,  N.  W-  corner  of  34th  St.,  is  the  Unitarian 
Church  of  the  Messiah. 

CAt  34th  St.,  4th  Ave.  changes  its  name  to  Park  Avenue 
«nd  widens  into  a  broad  thoroughfare  with  all  car  tracks  be- 
neath the  surface,  and  charming  beds  of  shrubbery  in  the 
center.  Betw.  34th  and  96th  sts.  8  are  thus  enclosed.  The 
surface  cars  run  in  a  tunnel  from  34th  st.  to  42nd  st..  where 
they  emerge  and  contmue  on  Madison  ave.,  via  42nd  st.  Be- 
neath this  tunnel  is  the  tunnel  of  the  subway  which  after  fol- 
lowing 42nd  St.  across  from  Times  Square  here  turns  S. 
Dipping  under  both  these  tunnels  is  thai  of  the  Pennsylvania 

L  railroad  crossing  the  city  at  32nd  and  33rd  sts. 
In  one  of  the  park  plots  above  37th  st.  is  a  tablet  to  Mary  Lindley 
Murray  (p.  211). 

At  40th  St.  is  Murray  Hill  Hotel  (p.  10),  and  on  42d  st. 
the  Belmont  Hotel  (description,  p.  ^212;  rates,  p.  10;  res- 
taurants, p.  21). 

Park  ave.  loses  the  blocks  from  42nd  to  50th  sts.,  the 
street  being  filled  in  by  the  Grand  Central  Terminal  and 
track  yards. 

Above  52nd  St.,  Park  ave.  is  a  delightful  street  with  gar- 
dens down  the  center  over  the  sunken  railroad  tracks  of  the 
New  York  Central,  and  huge,  beautiful,  modern  apartment 
houses  on  either  side. 

At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Park  ave.  and  59th  st.  is  the  Board 
of  Education  Building.  It  contains  portraits  of  De  Witt 
Clinton  and  former  members  of  the  Board.  Opposite,  S.  E. 
•  cor.,  is  the  home  of  the  Arion  Society,  a  musical  club  formed 
in  1854  by  fourteen  seceding  members  of  the  Deutscher 
Liederkranz. 

The  lower  story  is  of  Berea  sandstone;  the  remainder  of  buff 
brick  and  terra  cotta.  At  the  upper  elevation  are  two  heroic  groups 
by  Alois  Locher:  i.  On  Park  ave.  side,  Ar=on  on  a  hujye  shell,  borne 
by  dolphins  and  accompanied  by  tritons;  2.  On  59th  side,  Prince  Car- 
nival  with  Terpsichore  and  the  Genius  of  Music.     » 


2i8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

VII.     Irving  Place  and  Lexington  Avenue  North  to 

Fifty-Ninth  Street 

Irving  Place  begins  at  E.  14th  st.,  one  block  E.  of  4th  ave., 
and  runs  N.  to  Gramercy  Park,  at  E.  20th  st.  On  the  other 
side  of  Gramercy  Park  at  E.  22d  St.,  Lexington  ave.  begins, 
running  N.  to  the  Harlem  river  at  132nd  st.  Irving  Place  has 
changed  from  a  fashionable  residence  district  to  a  street  lined 
with  loft  buildings. 

The  block  on  14th  st.,  facing  Irving  place,  was  half  a 
century  ago  the  centre  of  New  York's  operatic  and  theatre 
district.  A  few  of  the  old  houses  still  survive,  but  cater 
to  a  different  element,  the  street  being  now  an  amusement 
centre  for  the  motley  intermixture  of  the  east  side.  ^ 

On  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Irving  place  is  the  old  Academy  of 
Music,  dating  from  1854,  the  home  of  opera  in  New  York 
until  1883  (see  p.  54).    It  is  now  a  photoplay  house. 

Adjoining  the  Academy  of  Music  on  the  east  is  the  un- 
gainly, red  brick  stufcture,  Tammany  Hall,  the  fourth  home 
of  the  Tammany  Society,  the  chief  stronghold  of  the  Demo- 
cratic party  in  New  York  (see  p.  xxiv). 

History.  The  origin  of  the  society's  name  goes  back  to  one 
Tamanend,  an  Indian  chief  of  the  Delaware  tribe  famed  for  his 
virtues  and  wisdom.  The  society  itself  grew  out  of  an  earlier  asso- 
ciation, the  Sons  of  Liberty,  an  active  member  of  which,  William 
Mooney,  founded  in  1789  the  "Secret  Society  of  St.  Tammany."  In  xSii 
the  first  building  was  erected  at  the  corner  of  Frankfort  St.  and  Park 
Row,  and  after  two  other  removals  the  society  moved  to  its  present 
home  in  1867.  The  original  purpose  of  the  organization  was  purely 
benevolent.  Its  first  active  participation  in  politics  was  in  1800  when 
it  helped  to  carry  New  York  for  Jefferson.  The  first  of  the  famous 
Tammany  "bosses"  was  the  notorious  William  M.  Tweed.  His  suc- 
cessors have  been  John  Kelly,  Richard  Croker,  Lewis  Nixon  and  Charles 
F.   Murphy. 

The  society  possesses  some  valuable  historical  paintings 
and  prints.  The  "Wigwam,"  on  the  upper  floor,  contains  the 
emblems  of  the  society.  Note  above  the  cornice,  the  statue 
of  St.  Tammany,  by  Ernest  Plassmann. 

On  14th  St.,  W.  of  Irving  pi.,  at  No.  109,  the  main  office  of 
Steinway  and  Sons,  piano  manufacturers,  was  formerly  Steintuay  Hall, 
the  most  famous  concert  hall  in  America.  The  auditorium  was  in  the 
rear  extending  100  ft.  on  15th  St.,  and  had  a  seating  capacity  of 
2500.  It  first  opened  in  October,  1866,  with  a  concert  including 
Mme.  Parepa  and  Carl  Rosa.  Other  famous  occasions  were  the  Theodore 
Thomas  concerts,  Charles  Dickens'  readings,  lectures  by  Du  Chaillu,  the 
explorer,  and  Christine  Neilsson's  American  debut.  The  hall  closed  in 
1^90,  the  firm  needing  the  space  for  business  purposes.  The  14th  street 
entrance  is  still  unchanged. 


IRVING  PLACE  AND  LEXINGTON  AVENUE    aig 

Irving  Place  (named  from  Washington  Irving)  runs 
north  six  blocks,  terminating  at  Gramercy  Park.  At  15th  St., 
S.  W.  cor.,  is  the  Irving  Place  Theatre  (p.  62). 

'  It  occupiea  the  site  of  the  old  Irving  Hall  (i860),  in  which  George 
Christy's  Minstrels,  Mme.  Parcpa-Rosa,  Artemus  Ward,  and  other 
famous  performers  were  seen.  The  hall  was  torn  down  m  1888  and 
the  Deutsches  Theater  was  erected  by  Gustave  Ambcrg,  former  man- 
ager  of  the  Thalia  Theatre.  The  name  was  chanwd  to  the  Irving 
Place  Theatre  by  Heinrich  Conrad  in  1893.  It  is  a  high  class  German 
play-house. 

The  Consolidated  Gas  Co.,  across  the  street,  has  erected 
a  13-story  building  around  and  about  the  original  7-story 
building.  The  upper  floors  of  the  center  of  the  structure 
do  not  rest  on  the  old  building,  but  are  hung  from 
huge  steel  cross-girders,  63  ft.  8  in.  long,  weighing  each  40 
tons  and  themselves  resting  on  steel  columns,  bedded  m 
concrete  footings. 

West  on  15th  St.,  No.  109,  is  the  original  home  of  the 
Century  Club,  now  the  Brewers'  Exchange.  No.  105,  a  quaint 
little  house  standing  far  back  from  the  street,  was  the  home 
of  Richard  Watson  Gilder.  It  was  here  that  the  Authors' 
Club  was  founded.  Diagonally  opposite  is  the  Hotel  America, 
a  favorite  resort  of  South  Americans. 

At  l6th  St.,  N.  W.  cor.,  the  Borgfeldt  Building  occupies 
the  site  of  the  Westminster  Hotel,  named  after  the  Duke  of 
Westminster,  whose  coat  of  arms  adorned  its  table  service, 
stationery  and  stained  glass  windows.  It  numbered  among 
its  guests  Dickens,  Mme.  Parepa-Rosa  and  Professors  Hux- 
ley and  TyndsJl- 

The  large  new  building  between  i6th  and  17th  Sts.,  on  the 
same  side,  is  the  Washington  Irving  High  School,  one  of  the 
finest  school  buildings  in  the  country.  On  the  first  floor  is  a 
large  auditorium.  The  building  contains  admirably  arranged 
classrooms,  laboratories,  etc.  The  equipment  is  excellent.  The 
school  has  over  5000  students,  and  ranks  high  among  educa- 
tional institutions.  At  17th  st.  S.  W.,  stands  the  oldest 
existing  building  on  Irving  Place,  popularly  known  as  Irving 
House. 

The  present  owners  say  that  they  have  no  knowledge  of  the  house 
eyer  having  been  occupied  by  Washington  Irving.  Hemstreet,  however, 
states  explicitly  that  it  was  once  the  home  of  John  T.  Irving,  a  nephew 
of  the'  author.  Here,  in  his  later  days,  Irving  spent  some  time,  and 
in  the  large  room  on  the  wound  floor  he  wrote  portioYis  of  Oliver 
Goldimkh  and  the  Life  of  Mahomet,  and  arranged  the  notes  for  fat« 
last  work,  the  Life  of   Washington. 

At  No.  55,  five  houses  north,  "O.  Henry"  Hvcd  for  a  time. 
Opposite,  S.  E.  cor.  of  18th  St.,  are  the  extensive  Huyler's 
Ghocolate  Works,  headquarters  of  the  well  known  chain  of 


220  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Huyler's  Candy  Stores.  Beyond,  at  No.  142  East  i8th  St., 
is  the  Stuyvesant,  one  of  New  York's  pioneer  apartment 
houses  (1869),  and  for  many  years  the  home  of  Bayard 
Taylor. 

E.  on  19th  St.  is  a  colony  of  wealthy  artists  and  architects, 
known  colloquially  as  "Pomander  Walk."  Many  old  houses 
and  stables  have  been  remodeled  into  quaint  studios,  sugges- 
tive of  a  block  in  some  old  Dutch  or  Flemish  town.  On  the 
S.  side  is  the  Pen-and-Brush  Club. 

♦Gramercy  Park  (PI. — C4),  lying  betw.  20th  and  21st  st., 
3rd  and  4th  aves.,  is  a  private  park,  surrounded  by  an  iron 
fence.  Only  members  of  the  association  made  up  of  the 
property  owners  who  face  the  park  and  contribute  to  its 
maintenance  are  entitled  to  keys  to  the  enclosure,  but  resi- 
dents of  adjacent  streets,  if  properly  accredited,  may  acquire 

the  privilege  upon  payment  of  $30.00  per  year. 

•  The  name  of  the  park  is  said  to  be  derived  from  Krom  Moerasje 
(Crooked  Little  Swamp),  formed  by  Cedar  Creek,  which  formerly  flowed 
from  Madison  Square  to  the  East  River.  In  1780  the  present  park 
formed  part  of  a  20  acre  farm,  known  as  Gramercy  Seat,  belonging  to 
James  Duane,  once  Mayor  of  the  city.  Later  it  was  owned  by  Samuel 
B.  Ruggles,  who  set  aside  42  lots  (December,  1831)  as  a  private  park. 
See  inscription  in  sidewalk  at  the  west  side  of  enclosure. 

Many  of  the  houses  on  and  near  Gramercy  Park  have  interesting 
associations.  To  the  W.  on  20th  st.,  the  rectory  of  All  Soul's  Church 
was  for  many  years  the  home  of  Dr.  Henry  W.  Bellows  (1814-82), 
one  of  New  York's  leading  clergymen  of  his  period.  No.  15  Gramercy 
Park,  now  the  National  Arts  Club,  was  formerly  the  home  of  Samuel 
J.  Tilden,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  New  York  Public  Library.  Note 
on  fagade  the  terra  cotta  portrait  madallions  of  Shakespeare,  Dante, 
Milton,  Goethe  and  Franklin.  No.  16,  former  residence  of  Valentine 
G.  Hall,  is  the  Players'  Club,  founded  in  1888  for  "the  promotion  of 
social  intercourse  between  the  representative  members  of  the  dramatic 
profession  and  of  the  kindred  professions  of  literature,  painting, 
sculpture  and  music."^  The  club-house  was  the  gift  of  Edwin  Booth, 
who  made  his  home  in  the  upper  front  room.  It  is  still  preserved 
exactly  as  he  left  it  at  his  death.  The  club  possesses  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  histrionic  relics,  including  Booth's  Shakespearean  costumes, 
prompt-books,  and  private  library.  Admission  by  member's  card  only. 
The  club  has  one  annual  Ladies'  Day  on  April  23d  (Shakespeare's 
birthday) . 

At  No.  17  lived  James  W-  Gerard,  a  distinguished  lawyer  ; 
it  is  now  the  Technology  Club.  No.  18,  corner  of  Irving 
Place,  once  owned  by  Luther  C.  Clark,  the  banker,  is  now 
the  Columbia  University  Club,  with  a  membership  of  over 
1000.  No.  21,  second  house  east  of  Irving  Place,  was  the 
residence  of  John  Bigelow,  once  U.  S.  Minister  to  France, 
and  joint  editor,  with  Bryant,  of  the  N.  Y.  Evening  Post. 
The  Hotel  Irving,  Nos.  25-27,  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  few 
down-town  hotels. 

On  the  E.  side,  the  high  Gramercy  Park  Building  is  one 
of  the  cit/s  well-known  apartment  houses. 


IRVING  PLACE  AND  LEXINGTON  AVENUE    221 

On  the  upper  side  of  the  Park,  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of 
Lexington  Ave.,  a  large  apartment  occupies  the  site  of  the 
homes  of  Cyrus  W.  and  David  Dudley  Field.  Opposite,  on  the 
N-  W.  corner,  is  the  Princeton  Club,  which,  however,  will 
soon  move  away,  having  recently  acquired  land  at  the  N.  E. 
corner  of  58th  St.  and  Park  Ave.  The  present  club-house  was 
formerly  the  residence  of  Stanford  White.  It  was  on  the 
steps  of  the  adjoining  house  that  David  Graham  Phillips, 
the  novelist,  was  murdered  in  191 1.  Further  W.  is  the  rectory 
of  Calvary  Church,  the  former  home  of  many  distinguished 
clergymen,  among  others  Dr.  Arthur  C.  Coxe,  later  Bishop 
of  Western  New  York,  and  Dr.  Henry  Satterlee,  afterwards 
Bishop  of  Washington. 

Diagonally  opposite,  No.  i  Gramercy  Park,  is  the  house 
once  occupied  by  Dr.  'Valentine  Mott,  a  distinguished  physi- 
cian (see  tablet  in  Bellevue  Hospital).  During  the  Civil  War, 
the  Comte  de  Paris  was  here  entertained. 

The  small  but  exquisite  office  building  at  the  S.  W.  corner 
of  22d  St.  belongs  to  the  Russell  Sage  Foundation,  an  institu- 
tion aiming  at  the  improvement  of  social  and  living  conditions 
in  the  United  States.  The  civic  library  on  the  top  floor  is 
especially  full  and  valuable.  It  contains  over  12,000  volumes 
and  15,000  pamphlets.  Free  to  the  public  on  week-days  from 
9 :45  a.m.  to  10  p.m. 

The  large  dwelling-house  on  the  opposite  corner.  No.  9 
Lexington  ave.,  was  successivelj'^  the  home  of  Peter  Cooper 
and  of  his  son-in-law,  Abraham  S.  Hewitt.  E.  on  the  upper 
side  of  22d  st.  is  the  new  Children's  Court  (1914),  a  gray 
limestone  structure  with  an  Ionic  facade.  Beyond  is  the 
Swedish  Lutheran  Gustavus  Adolphus  Church,  dating  from 
1887. 

At  S.  E.  cor.  of  Lexington  ave.  and  23d  st.  is  the  venera- 
ble Gothic  structure  of  the  College  of  the  City  of  New  York, 
unoccupied  since  that  institution  moved  uptown  to  its  present 
home  on  St.  Nicholas  Terrace   (p.  344). 

Between  25th  and  26th  Sts.,  on  the  W.  side,  is  situated  the 
armory  of  the  69th  Regirnent.  The  land  is  valued  at  $940,000 
and  the  building  at  $350,000. 

The  many  important  battles  of  the  Civil  War,  in  which  the  69th 
Regiment  took  part  are  inscribed  on  the  main  facade  of  the  Armory. 
This  regiment  is  recruited  mainly  from  the  Irish- Americans.  In  i860 
it  refused  to  obey  the  order  to  march  in  a  parade  in  honor  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales  (later  Edward  VII),  on  the  occasion  of  his  visit  to 
America. 

Between  26th  and  28th  Sts.,  and  adjacent  side-streets,  lies 
the  Armenian  colony.    There  are  three  Armenian  restaurants, 


^ 


222         ,  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

several  Armenian  dubs,  and  numerous  shops  (among  others, 
the  headquarters  of  Dr.  Dadirian's  "Zoolak"). 

At  No.  123  Lexington  Ave.,  between  28th  and  29th  Sts., 
President  Chester  A.  Arthur  took  the  oath  of  office  as  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States  on  September  19,  1881. 

On  the  S.  W.  corner  is  the  First  Moravian  Church,  estab- 
lished 1748. 

On  the  N.  W.  corner  of  30th  St.  is  the  School  of  Applied 
Design  for  Women,  a  beautiful  modern  structure,  designed  by 
Pell  &  Corbett,  The  wall  of  the  lower  stories  is  of  limestone, 
on  a  base  of  Concord  gray  granite ;  the  upper  story  is  of  light- 
face  brick,  with  shafts  of  Quincy  green  granite. 

Half-way,  the  two  facades  are  adorned  with  a  frieze  copied  from 
the  famous  £lgiii  Marbles,  once  the  frieze  of  the  Parthenon.  These 
reproductions  were  cast  from  the  copies  in  the  Metropolitan  Museum, 
and  restored  in  accordance  with  the  most  recent  archaeological  views. 
They  are  the  same  size  as  the  originals  and  are  placed  at  the  same 
level.  The  procession  leads  up  to  the  seated  gods,  above  the  main 
entrance. 

At  35th  St.,  S.  E.  corner,  stands  the  Packard  Commercial 
Institute,  an  adaptation  of  the  American  Colonial  or  Georgian 
style,  built  of  Indiana  limestone  and  Green  River  granite. 

Packard  Institute  was  fotinded  in  1858  by  S.  S.  Packard,  and 
started  in  the  then  new  building  of  Cooper  Union.  In  1863  it  moved 
to  its  QVftx  quarters  at  Broadway  and  226.  St.,  and  after  several  re- 
movals, took  over  the  old  building  of  the  College  of  Physic'ans  and 
Surgeons  at  23d  St.  and  4th  Ave.,  whence  it  went  to  its  present  home. 
Its  scope  is  now  greatly  enlarged  and  it  has  ac<;ommodation  for  over 
600    studentj. . 

From  46th  to  47th  Sts.  is  the  Grand  Central  Palace,  one 
of  the  new  Terminal  Buildings,  with  a  large  exhibition  hall 
and  several  smaller  ones. 

From  48th  to  49th  Sts.  are  the  Adams  Express  Co.  offices. 

At  49th  St.  is  the  8-story  Bible  Teachers'  Training  School. 

At  the  corner  of  52d  St.  is  the  Young  Women's  Christian 
Association,  and  opposite  the  Swedish  M.  E.  Church.  At  No. 
106  E.  52d  St..  near  Park  Ave.,  is  the  Woman's  University 
Club  Building. 

At  55th  St.  is  a  synagogue  belonging  to  the  Congregation 
Shaar  Hashomayim.  Its  former  rabbi  was  Alexander  Kohut. 
The  Babied  Hospital  at  55th  St.,  for  children  under  3  years, 
has  a  capacity  of  75  beds.  Visitors  welcome  Friday,  2.30  to  5 
p.  m.  It  operates  a  dispensary;  a  training  school  for  nurses, 
and  a  country  branch  at  Oceanic,  N.  J. 

At  126  E.  59th  St.,  W.  of  the  Ave ,  is  the  New  York 
Orthopedic  Dispensary  and  Hospital,  with  a  capacity  of  65 
beds,  for  the  study  and  treatment  of  diseases  of  the  spine, 


MIDTOWN  EAST  OF  LEXINGTON  AVENUE    223 

hip  joint,  and  other  bones  and  joints.  On  the  N.  side  of  the 
same  block  is  the  *' Light  House"  of  the  New  York  Association 
for  the  Blind,  with  salesrooms  for  the  work  of  the  blind. 

VIII.    Midtown  New  York  East  of  Lexington 

Avenue 

(Between  Lexington  Avenue  and  the  East  River) 

The  remaining  sts.  on  the  E.  side,  running  N.  from  E. 
Houston  St.  to  the  Bronx,  the  Harlem  or  the  East  River  are: 
Third  ave.,  from  395  Bowery  across  the  Harlem  River  to 
Pelham  ave.  in  the  Bronx ;  Second  ave.,  from  E.  Houston  st. 
to  the  Harlem  River  at  129th  st. ;  First  ave,,  from  E.  Houston 
St.  to  the  Harlem  River  at  127th  st;  Ave.  A,  from  E.  Hous- 
ton St.  to  the  East  River  at  93rd  st,  cut  out.  by  the  river  from 
23rd  to  54th  sts.;  Ave,  B  (known  also  as  East  End  ave.  fr. 
79th  to  89th  sts.),  from  E.  Houston  St.  to  East  River  at 
89th  St.  (cut  out  by  the  river  betw.  22nd  and  72nd  sts.)  ; 
Ave,.  C,  from  E.  Houston  st.  to  East  River  at  i8th  St.;  and 
Ave.  D,  from  E.  Houston  st.  to  the  East  River  at  i6th  st. 

These  streets  are  lined  with  long  rows  of  tenement 
houses,  with  small  retail  shops  on  the  ground  floor.  The 
elevated  lines  on  2nd  and  3rd  aves.,  the  heavy  carting  traffic, 
the  vendors'  wagons  and  push-carts,  the  sidewalk  markets, 
and  the  crowds  of  pedestrians,  all  help  to  create  a  noise  and 
confusion  that  make  these  thoroughfares  unattractive.  2nd 
ave.  is  largely  inhabited  by  Overmans,  ist  ave.  is  somewhat 
rough  and  popular  with  "gangs."  The  upper  end  of  all  these 
streets  is  populated  by  Italians  to  such  an  extent  that  the 
neighborhood  is  called  "Little  Italy." 

A  few  interesting  old  buildings  remain  in  the  ▼icinity  of  Stuyvbs- 
ANT  Square  (area  about  4  acres),  betw.  isth  and  17th  sts.  Second 
ave.  passes  through  the  middle.  On  the  £.  and  W.  respectively, 
are  Livingston  and  Rutherford  pis.  This  square  was  formed  xrom  part 
of  the  ori|;inal  Stuyvesant  farm  knd  was  for  a  time„  like  Gramercy 
Park,  a  private  park. 

Two  blocks  south,  at  No.  180  2d  Ave.,  stands  the  former 
home  of  President  Buchanan,  now  a  relief  house  for  Polish 
emigrants.  At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  2d  Ave.  and  13th  St.  is 
the  A^.  Y,  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary. 

This  institution  dates  from  1822;  present  building,  1893;  Scher- 
merhorn  Pavilion,  1902.  It  gives  free  treatment  to  anyone  certified 
by  a  physician  as  unable  to  pay.     Capacity,  175  beds. 

On  E.  14th  St.,  No.  414,  IS  Grace  Chapel  (P.  E.)  and 
Dispensary,  a  modern  French  Gothic  structure,  designed  by 
Barney  &  Chapman. 


224  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Over  the  entrance  is  a  bronze  lunette  in  high  relief,  representing 
"Christ  Healing  the  Sick."  Among  the  activities  of  this  branch  of 
Grace  Church  are  an  industrial  school,  gymnasium  and  swimming  baths, 
a  club  house  in  £.  J3th  St.,  and  the  Grace  Chapel  Music  School. 

Abutting  on  the  park,  S.  E.  cor.  of  15th  St,  is  the 
Hebrew  Technical  School  for  Girls,  See  in  auditorium  a 
large  mural  panel,  by  F,  L.  Stoddard,  representing  Woman- 
hood. On  the  W.  side  of  the  park,  15th  St.  and  Rutherford 
PI.,  the  quaint  brick  building  of  the  Friends*  Meeting  House 
(formerly  on  Pearl  and  Rose  Sts.)  At  Rutherford  PI.  and 
i6th  St.  stands  St.  George's  Church  (1845-48),  successor  to 
St.  George's  Chapel,  formerly  on  Beekman   St. 

The  original  Chapel  of  St.  George  (one  of  the  Chapels  of  Trinity 
Parish),  dates  from  1748.  The  first  contribution  to  the  fund  which 
built  it  was  made  by  Admiral  Sir  Peter  Warren;  the  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury  was  also  among  the  donors.  The  ground  occupied  by 
the  present  edifice  Was  donated  by  Peter  G.  Stuyvesant  in  1846; 
the  first  church  built  upon  it  was  burned  in  1865,  and  the  present  one 
erected  in  1867.  The  present  church  conducts  extensive  religious 
and  charitable  activities,  including  an  Evening  Trade  School 
for  Boys,  a  Kindergarten,  St.^  George's  Cottage,  Rockaway  Park  (a 
summer*  ncme  for  poor  parishioners),  and  a  summer  camp  for  boys, 
named  Camp  Rainsford,  in  honor  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Rainsford,  whose 
zealous  ministry  did  much  to  give  the  church  its  present  strength  and 
prominence. 

Diagonally  across,  N.  W.  cor.  of  2d  Ave.  and  17th  St., 
IS  the  Lying-in  Hospital,  a  maternity  hospital,  with  a  capacity 
of  196  beds  and  a  far-reaching  out-door  department  The 
present  admirably  equipped  hospital  building  was  largely 
due  to  the  donations  of  the  late  J.  Pierpont  Morgan  (R.  H. 
Robertson,  Architect). 

This  hospital  was  organized  in  December,  1798.  A  consistent 
feature  of  its  work  has  been  the  aiding  of  women  in  their  own  homes, 
with  the  result  that,  inclusive  of  indoor  and  outdoor  service,  the 
Society  cares  for  over  seven  per  cent,  of  the  annual  births  in  the 
Borough  of  Manhattan,  and  claims  a  maternity  mortality  of  less  than 
one-half  of  one  per  cent,   of  the  cases  treated. 

East  on  17th  St.,  No.  330,  one  of  the  early  apartment 
houses  in  this  section,  was  once  a  literary  colony,  number- 
ing among  its  tenants  Richard  Grant  White,  Henry  Cuyler 
Bunner,  former  editor  of  Puck,  and  Professor  Brander  Mat- 
thews. 

This  section  of  the  city  forms  the  chief  center  of  Manhattan 
public  and  private  hospitals.  £.  from  Stuyvesant  Sq.,  at  the  foot  of 
1 6th  St.,  is  the  IVillard  Parker  Hospital,  a  group  of  pavilions  to  which 
Bellevue  Hospital  consigns  the  contagious  cases.  A  new  eight-story 
pavilion  is  now  in  course  of  construction.  N.  from  Stuyvesant  Sq.,  on 
ad  Ave.,  cor.  19th  St.,  is  the  N.  Y.  Skin  and  Cancer  Hospital  (incor. 
1882),  with  a  capacity  of  100  beds  and  an  out-patient  department  which 
cares  for  far  the  largest  number  of  patients.  Annual  average,  over 
30,000  cases. 


MIDTOWN  EAST  OF  LEXINGTON  AVENUE    225 

Just  below  Z4th  St.,  on  the  E.  side,  is  the  New  York  Eye  and  Ear 
Infirmary,  with  a  capacity  of  175  beds  and  a  special  pavihon  for  the 
treatment  of  contagious  ophthalmia.  The  New  York  Infirmary  for 
Women  and  Children,  at  321  £.  zsth  St.,  just  back  of  Stuyvesant  Park, 
for  medical  and  maternity  cases,  is  in  the  charge  of  women  physicians. 
The  New  York  Post-Graduate  Medical  School  and  Hospital,  at  2nd 
Ave.  and  20th  St.,  was  founded  by  the  Post-Graduate  Faculty  of  the 
University  of  New  York  to  offer  graduate  work  to  advanced  students. 

*B£LLEVUE  Hospital,  at  the  corner  of  26th  st.  and  ist 
ave.,  extends  over  to  the  river  and  back  to  29th  st.  cover- 
ing iij^  A.  The  hospital  is  under  the  Dept.  of  Charities 
(p.  28)  and  receives  the  destitute,  sick  and  injured  of  the 
city,  excepting  contagious  disease  patients,  who  are  sent  to 
the  Willard  Parker  and  the  Scarlet  Fever  Hospital  (under 
Board  of  Health,  p.  29),  at  the  ft.  of  i6th  st.  Bellevue  has  a 
capacity  of  1235  beds,  being  the  largest  hospital  in  the  city 
and  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  Visiting  days  are :  Mon., 
Wed.,  Fri.,  6  p.  m.  to  8  p.  m. ;  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sat.,  Sun., 
I  p.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

The  city  hospital,  previous  to  18 10,  was  in  Cit^  Hall  Park.  In 
i860  the  first  ambulance  service  in  the  world  was  inaugurated  here. 
The  Main  or  Grey  Stone  Building  was  the  original  Bellevue  Hospital 
(so  named  because  the  land  it  occupies  was  once  the  Belle  Vue  Farm), 
and  its  corner  stone  was  laid  in  18 12.  The  portico  at  the  main  entrance 
is  decorated  with  a  wrought-iron  railing,  from  the  Federal  Hall  balcony 
where  Washington  delivered  his  Tnaugural  Address  (p.    127). 

In  the  lobby  of  the  Main  Building  are  a  number  of  Memorial 
Tablets  to  famous  New  York  physicians  of  former  generations :  ( i )  Dr. 
Austin  Flint,  1812-1886;  (2)  Dr.  Alfred  L.  Loomis,  1830-1895;  (3)  Dr. 
Valentine  Motl.  1785-1865;  (4)  Dr.  Louis  Albert  Sayer,  1820-1900; 
(S)  Dr.  James  Rushmore  Wood,  181 6-1882. 

The  hospital  is  being  gradually  rebuilt,  the  old  buildings  being  one 
by  one  replaced  by  new  ones.  In  time  the  hospital  win  be  ideally' 
arranged.  The  new  buildings  already  erected  ana  in  use  are  on  the 
riverside.  When  the  plans  are  fully  realized  the  capacity  will  be  2,200 
beds.  The  buildings  will  be  connected,  but  arranged  in  wings  around 
courtyards.  One  wing  in  each  group  will  be  lower  than  the  others,  to 
give  a  better  exposure  to  the  courts.  The  roofs  will  be  utilized  for 
roof  gardens  and  open-air  wards.  The  alcoholic  and  psychopathic  wards 
will  be  especially  nne.  The  main  entrance  will  be  on  ist  ave.  instead 
of  as  at  present  on  26th  st. 

In  the  same  street  are  the  buildings  of  the  Faculty  of 
Medicine,  with  the  Loomis  Laboratory  attached.  The  labora- 
tory, costing  $100,000,  was  donated  on  condition  that  the 
name  of  the  donor  be  kept  secret. 

At  the  end  of  the  street  are  the  pier  and  offices  of  the 
Commissioner  of  Public  Charities   (p.  28). 

JBetw.  the  pier  and  Bellevue  is  the  old  Morgue  (N.  side), 
a  gloomy  one-story  structure,  with  a  dome-shaped  roof.  The 
new  mortuary  chambers  are  in  the  recently  finished  addition 
at  the  N.  side  of  the  hospital  grounds. 

The  New  York  University  and  Bellez/ue  Hospital  Medi- 
cal College,  at  26th  St.  and  3rd  Ave.,  is  housed  in  four  build- 


226  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ings;  the  College  Building,  erected  by  the  Bellevue  Hospital 
Medical  College  in  1897,  and  later  transterred  to  New  York 
University;  the  Carnegie  Laboratory,  1885;  the  New  Labora- 
tory Building,  built  by  the  University  in  1903;  and  the  Car- 
negie Laboratory  Extension,  all  connected.  The  Edward  N. 
Gibbs  Memorial  X-Ray  Laboratory  occupies  the  entire  base- 
ment of  the  Carnegie  Laboratory  Extension.  Other  labora- 
tories are  those  of  Chemistry,  Bacteriology,  Pathology,  and 
Pharmacology. 

The  large,  plain  brick  buildings  on  ist  Ave.,  betw.  27th 
and  28th  Sts.,  belong  to  the  Cornell  University  Medical  School. 

The  shore  along  by  34th  st.  was  formerly  called  Kip's 
Bay,  from  Jacob  Kip,  who  owned  a  farm  here  about  1655. 
It  was  here  that  the  British  landed,  Sept.  15,  1776,  when  they 
took  possession  of  Manhattan  Island. 

At  45th  St.  and  ist  Ave.  was  formerly  Artillery  Park, 
the  scene  of  Nathan  Hale's  execution. 

Beekman  Place,  betw.  49th  and  51st  Sts.,  on  the  river- 
bank,  is  a  quiet  spot,  where  the  old  residences  have  not  been 
replaced  by  tenements. 

The  name  preserves  the  memory  of  the  old  Beekman  House  built 
in  1763,  by  William  Beekman,  which  during  the  Revolution  became 
Hadquarters  of  Howe,  Clinton,  and  Carleton.  It  was  here,  in  a  green- 
house, that  Nathan  Hale  was  tried'  as  a  spy. 

E.  59th  St.  is  the  main  crosstown  street  of  this  section, 
ending  in  the  Queensboro  Bridge  (PI.  I— C3).  This  neighbor- 
hood to  the  N.  is  called  Yorkville,  from  a  village  on  the  old 
Post  Road. 

The  Volunteer  Firemen's  Association  (open  free  daily),  at  220  E. 
59th  St.,  has  a  collection  of  old  fire  apparatus  and  other  relics.  At  the 
corner  of  3rd  ave.  and  59th  st.  is  Blooming  dale's  Department  Store, 
carrying  popular-priced  goods.  Under  Queensboro  Bridge,  at  the 
foot  of  the  street,  is  a  Public  Market.  The  View  up  and  down  the 
river  from  the  bridge  entrance  is  worth  seeing. 

IX.     Midtown  New  York  West  of  Fifth  Avenue 

and  Broadway 
(Between  these  Streets  and  the  Hudson  River) 

A.  Sixth  Avenue 
Sixth  Avenue,  the  first  parallel  to  sth  Ave.  on  the  W., 
runs  N.  from  Carmine  St.,  near  Washington  Square,  to  W. 
59th  St. ;  beyond  the  park  it  becomes  Lenox  Ave.  The  6th  Ave 
elevated  runs  the  entire  length  (change  at  soth  St.  to  shuttle 
car  for  58th  St.)  The  lower  part  of  the  5t.  was  a  part  of 
the  14th  St.  shopping  district,  but  the  only  larger  store  left 
is  the  Greenhut  Company  (formerly  the  Siegel-Cooper  and 
the  Greenhut  stores),  betw.  i8th  and  19th  sts. 


MIDTOWN  WEST  OF  BROADWAY  227 

Note  the  curioui  angles  formed  by  the  cross  streets  on  the  west 
side,  from  Carmine  to  nth  St.,  necessitated  by  the  original  plan  of 
Greenwich  Village  (p.  160),  4th  St.,  for  example,  bending  northward, 
and  nth  St.  bending  to  the  south,  so  that  they  presently  intersect  at 
right  angles 

9th  St.  Stops  at  6th  Ave.  At  8th  St  Greenwich  Ave,, 
part  of  the  old  pre-Revolutionary  Inland  Road  to  Green- 
wich, branches  off  to  the  N.  W.,  forming  with  6th  Ave.  and 
loth  St.  a  triangle  occupied  by  the  Jefferson  Market  Police 
Court,  with  its  prison  and  market  from  which  it  is  named 
(the  only  surviving  public  market  not  on  the  waterfront). 

The  Court  House  is  a  familiar  landmark,  a  red  brick  structure, 
with  a  circular  tower  at  its  upper  corner,  surmounted  by  a  pyramidal 
top.  One  of  the  city  night  courts  is  held  here  (9  p.m.)  and  offers  an 
interesting  glimpse  of  the  sordid  side  of  city  life.  The  building  also 
contains  the  rooms  of  the  Exempt  Firemen's  Organization,  containing 
a  curious  collection  of  old  fire  apparatus,  pictures,  etc.  (Open  to  the 
public,  free;  entrance  No.   10  Greenwich  Ave.). 

N.  of  the  Court  House,  note  two  curious  little  alleys,  Patchen 
Place,  reached  from  loth  St.,  and  Milligan  Court ^  reached  through 
a  three-foot  opening  on  6th  Ave.,  adjoining  a  saloon;  they  are  interest- 
ing survivals  of  portions  of  early  lanes  now  closed. 

E.  on  loth  St.,  N.  side,  stands  a  time-worn  brick  struc- 
ture, the  Tenth  Street  Studio  Building,  the  first  erected  in 
the  city  exclusively  for  studio  purposes.  Formerly  many 
leading  artists  of  New  York  had  ateliers  here,  that  of  William 
M.  Chase  being  considered  one  of  the  handsomest. 

Diagonally  opposite  the  Studio,  in  the  rear  of  No.  58 
(residence  of  D.  Maitlaild  Armstrong,  artist),  there  can 
still  be  seen  what  remains  of  the  white  frame  building  once 
occupied  by  the  Tile  Club,  of  which  Abbey,  Millet  and  other 
distinguished  American  artists  were  members  in  their  youth. 
Mr.  Armstrong's  rear  extension  of  his  house  has  naturally 
made  serious  inroads  upon  the  old  building.  Some  scenes 
of  Hopkinson  Smith's  **Colonel  Carter  of  Cartersville"  were 
laid   here. 

Adjoining  the  S.  £.  cor.  of  nth  St.,  within  a  small  triangle,  is 
all  that  remains  of  the  second  Beth  Haim,  a  Jewish  cemetery,  estab- 
lished here  in   1804-5.     See  tablet. 

Continuing  N.,  we  reach,  on  14th  St.,  No.  I07  W.,  the 
Fourteenth  Street  Theatre,  now  a  vaudeville  house. 

This  theatre,  as  well  as  the  Armory  of  the  Ninth  Coast  Artillery, 
adjoining  it  on  the  W.,  stands  upon  the  grounds  of  an  earlier  amuse- 
ment place,  the  old  Cremorne  Garden.  It  was  first  opened  in  1866  as 
the  ThSatre  Francois,  and  was  devoted  to  Italian  Opera  and  French 
comic  opera.  Here  occurred  the  American  debuts  of  Adelaide  Ristori, 
z866;  Charles  Fechter,  1870;  and  Marie  Seebach,  1871. 

The  armory  belongs  to  the  Ninth  Coast  Artillery  Dis- 
trict,   Land  valued  at  $470,000,  building  at  $380,000. 

Further  W.  on  14th  st,  Nos.  126-130  is  the  Cruger  Man- 
sion, now  the  National  Headquarters  of  the  Salvation  Army. 


228  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

It  was  originally  the  residence  of  William  Douglas  and  his  sister, 
Harriet  Douglas  Cruger.  Here  Kossuth  was  once  entertained.  The 
building  is  a  copy  of  Boscobel  House,  in  Scotland,  seat  of  the  Douglas 
family.      It  was  once  the  heme  of  the   Metropolitan   Museum   of  Art. 

The  Salvation  Army  National  Headquarters  is  the  center  of  the 
work  '  throughout  the  United  States.  The  War  Cry  and  other 
periodicals  are  published  here.  Shelters  and  hotels  are  maintained  in 
various  parts  of  the  city,  relief  work  is  carried  on  and  street  meet- 
ings  held. 

W.  on  1 6th  St.,  No.  126,  is  the  French  Evangelical  Church 
(Presby.)  At  the  S.  E.  cor.  is  the  Greenwich  Savings  Bank; 
and  E.  on  i6th  St.  the  Church  and  College  of  St.  Francis 
Xavier. 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  20th  St.  is  the  P.  E.)  Church^ of  the 
Holy  Communion,  erected  in  1846,  from  plans  by  Richard 
Upjohn. 

This  church  was  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Anna  C.  Rogers,  in  compliance 
with  the  dying  request  of  her  husband.  Her  brother.  Dr.  William 
A.  Mtihlenberg,  the  founder  of  St.  Luke's  Hospital,  was  the  first  rector. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  23d  st.  on  the  fagade  of  what  was 
until  recently  the  site  of  McCreery's  Department  Store,  are 
a  tablet  and  bust  of  Edwin  Booth  (1833-93),  marking  the  site 
of  Booth's  Theatre,  1869-80.  Diagonally  opposite,  at  No.  55, 
there  stood  until  lately  the  Eden  Musie,  a  collection  of  wax- 
works, with  a  Chamber  of  Horrors,  musical  entertainments, 
etc.  W.  on  23d  St.,  No.  127,  is  the  French  (R.  C.)  Church  of 
St.'  Vincent  de  Paul,  and  beyond  it,  No.  143,  Proctor^s  23d 
St.  Theatre.    In  24th  St.,  No.  46,  is  the  Masonic  Club. 

On  the  E.  side  of  6th  Ave.,  near  28th  St ,  is  an  old  resi- 
dence, recently  remodeled  and  now  occupied  by  Mouquin's 
Restaurant. 

It  stands  on  what  wa^  once  part  of  the  Varian  farm,  and  was 
built  by  Henry  Varian,  brother  of  Isaac  L.  Varian,  one-time  Mavor 
of  New  York  (1839-40).  It  was  long  known  as  the  "Knickerbocker 
Cottage,"  the  Varians  being  a  Knickerbocker  family. 

One  block  W.  at  32d  St.  is  the  Pennsylvania  Station 
(p.  116). 

At  34th  St.  the  Ave.  crosses  Broadway  diagonally.  The 
northern  of  the  two  triangular  open  spaces  resulting  is  Herald 
Square,  which  gives  its  name  to  this  immediate  section  of 
the  city.  The  southern  triangle  is  Greeley  Square.  (For 
description  of  buildings,  monuments,  department  stores,  etc., 
see  Broadway  section,  p.  166). 

From  36th  St.  to  40th  St.,  6th  Ave.  is  the  centre  of  the 
Midtown  Greek  colony,  with  numerous  restaurants,  coffee 
and  pool  rooms,  etc.  At  40th  St.,  S.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Beaux 
Arts  Restaurant  (p.  21),  and  diagonally  opposite  is  the  new 
building   of   the    Union   Dime   Savings   Bank,    formerly   at 


MIDTOWN  WEST  OF  BROADWAY  229 

Greeley  Sq.  (the  name  of  the  bank  being  due  to  the  fact  that 
originally  an  account  could  be  started  by  the  initial  deposit 
of  ID  c).  On  the  E.  side,  from  40th  to  42d  St.  is  Bryant 
Park  (PI.  I— B3),  known  until  1884  as  Reservoir  Square. 
It  occupies  the  western  half  of  the  tract  extending  from 
5th  to  6th  Aves.,  the  eastern  half  being  taken  up  by  the 
New  York  Public  Library  (p.  186).  This  land  was  bought 
by  the  city  in  1822,  and  used  as  a  Potter's  Field  until  1842, 
when  the  site  of  the  present  library  was  occupied  by  the 
first  distributing  reservoir  for  the  Croton  Aqueduct. 

The  Reservoir  covered  more  than  4  acres,  and  was  divided  into 
two  basins,  containing  altogether  20,000,000  gallons.  Its  outward  appear- 
ance resembled  that  of  an  Egyptian  temple.  It  was  demolished  in  1900, 
to  make  room  for  the  Library.  Some  of  the  old  foundations  may  still 
be   distinfi^uished. 

In  the  portion  now  devoted  to  Bryant  Park  (4.77  acres)  there 
formerly  stood  the  Crystal  Palace,  a  spacious  exhibition  hall,  built 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross  and  surmounted  by  a  graceful  dome; 
the  materials  were  glass  and  iron.  The  statement  is  often  made  that 
its  prototype  was  the  famous  Crystal  Palace  at  Sydenham,  near  London; 
but  the  two  structures  differed  radically  in  design;  and  in  point  of 
fact  the  Sydenham  Palace  was  not  opened  until  1854,  while  that  in 
New  York  was  opened  July  14,  1853,  as  a  "World's  Fair  for  the 
exhibition  of  the  arts  and  Industries  of  all  nations."  It  was  destroyed 
by   fire   in    1858. 

Immediately  behind  the  Public  Library  is  an  imposing  statue  of 
William  CuUen  Bryant  (after  whom  the  park  is  named),  by  Herbert 
Adams,  erected  by  the  Century  Association  in    191 1. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Bryant  statue  is  a  Memorial  Fountain  to 
Josephine  Shaw  Lowell,  a  social  worker  and  philanthropist  (erected, 
1912).  Ai  tablet  in  front,  iti  the  pavement,  records  the  fact  that 
Mrs.  Lowell  was  left  a  widow  while  still  a  bride,  her  husband,  a 
patriotic  soldier,  having  fallen  in  the  closing  months  of  the  Civil  W^ar. 
{Charles  A.   Piatt,   architect.) 

Other  monuments  in  this  park  are:  Dr.  J.  Marion  Sims,  by  Fer- 
dinand von  Miller  (erected  by  public  subscription);  and  Washington 
Irving,  by  Friedrick  Beer   (near  S.  W.  cor.) 

On  42d  St.,  facing  the  Park,  the  twelve-story  structure 
of  the  Aeolian  Building  (Warren  and  Wetmore,  architects), 
extending  through  the  block  to  43d  st.  On  the  42d  st.  side 
is  the  entrance  to  the  exhibition  and  sales  rooms  of  the 
Aeolian  Company  (Aeolian  Organs  and  Pianola  Pianos) ; 
also  other  offices.  On  the  43d  st.  side  is  the  main  entrance 
to  Aeolian  Hall  (p.  62). 

Further  W.  pn  43d  St.  is  the  new  building  of  Stern's 
Department  Store,  which  also  extends  back  to  43d  St.,  with 
a  N.  W.  wing  reaching  to  6th  Ave.  lyOench  and  Yost, 
architects).  The  N.  E.  cor.  of  42d  St.  and  6th  Ave.,  which 
fills  in  the  jog  in  Stern's  L-shaped  building,  is  occupied  by 
Fleischman's  Baths  (p.  17)  and  numerous  small  shops. 

At  the  cor.  of  44th  st.  is  the  Hippodrome,  with  a  seating 
capacity  of  5,200.    The  stage  can  accommodate  several  hun- 


230  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

dred  performers  at  once,  and  includes  a  huge  tank,  permitting 
water  scenes.  W.  of  6th  ave.,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  st.,  is 
the  Elks  club  house,  costing  a  million  dollars.  At  No.  107 
is  the  Army  and  Navy  Club,  and  near  Broadway  the  deserted 
Metropole  Hotel,  later  called  Miller^s  Hotel,  in  front  of  which 
the  famous  Rosenthal  murder  took  place. 

At  Nos.  126-28  is  the  recently  enlarged  club-house  of  the 
Lambs,  one  of  the  leading  theatrical  clubs  in  tne  city. 

Note  on  main  faQade,  in  high  relief,,  two  Frolicking  Lambs,  sjrm- 
bolic  of  the  annual  "Gambols"  for  which  the  club  is  noted.  The  avowed 
purpose  of  the  association  is  to  promote  "the  social  intercourse  of  mem- 
bers of  the  dramatic  and  musical  profession  with   men  of  the  world." 

The  New  York  Athletic  Club,  at  59th  St.,  is  housed  in  a  beautiful 
building,  with  a  gymnasium,  swimming  tank,  etc.  Another  house 
belonging  to  the  Club  is  located  on  Travers  Island  at  New  Rochelle, 
fitted  up  for  sailing  and  outdoor  sports.     The  membership  is  3,500. 

No.  no  W.  57th  St.  is  the  new  home  of  the  Lotos  Club, 

formerly  556  5th  Ave. 

The  Lotos  Club  was  organized  in  1870.  Its  professed  purpose  was 
to  "promote  social  intercourse  among  journalists,  artists  and  members 
of  the  musical  and  dramatic  professions,  and  representatives,  amateurs 
and  friends  of  literature,  science  and  the  fine  arts." 

To  the  W.  on  Central  Pk.  W.,  No.  112,  is  the  Deutscher 

Verein,  or  German  Club,  a  five-story  romanesque  structure 

of  Indiana  limestone,  erected  in  1890. 

The  club  was  organized  in  1846,  its  first  home  being  at  No.  10  W. 
34th  St.  Its  membership  is  limited  to  Germans  and  to  such  others  as 
understand  and  speak  the  German  language. 

Further  west,  at  No.  120,  is  the  Catholic  Club,  in  the 

early  Italian  Renaissance  order  of  architecture.     The  lower 

stories  are  of  rustic  stone,  the  upper  of  Roman  brick  and 

terracotta. 

This  club  was  founded  in  1871,  its  avowed  object  being  to  ''advance 
Catholic  interests."  It  contains  what  is  considered  to  be  one  of  the 
best  Catholic  libraries  in  New  York. 

B.    Seventh  Avenue 

Seventh  Avenue  runs  N.  from  Greenwich  Ave.,  at  about 
I2th  St.,  to  W.  59th  St.  It  begins  again  at  iioth  St.  and  con- 
tinues to  the  Harlem  River.  It  is  now  being  continued  south- 
ward through  the  heart  of  Greenwich  Village  (p.  160),  and 
joins  Varick  St.  almost  in  a  straight  line  at  Carmine  St.,  in 
the  rear  of  the  Leroy  St.  Branch  of  the  Public  Library. 
The  lower  part  of  7th  ave.  is  inhabited  largely  by  French. 

At  215  W.  23rd  St.,  W.  of  the  ave.,  is  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association  Building  (PI.  I — B4),  erected  in 
1913  at  a  cost,  including  site,  of  $750,000. 

From  31st  to  33d  St.,  W.  side,  is  the  Pennsylvania 
Station  (p.  116).  At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  35th  St.  is  the  State. 
Arsenal, 


MIDTOWN  WEST  OF  BROADWAY  231 

At  7th  Ave.  and  38th  St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  the  Hotel 
Navarre  (p.  10).  At  38th  St,  N.  W.  cor.  is  St,  Chrysos- 
tom's  Chapel,  one  of  the  chapels  of  Trinity  Parish  (p.  132). 
From  39th  to  40th  St.,  E.  side,  is  the  rear  of  the  Metropolitan 
Opera  House.  Just  S.  of  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  42d  st.  is  the 
Hermitage,  a  recently  erected  hotel. 

At  43d  St.,  beyond  the  Times  Building  '  (p.  170),  7th 
Avenue  crosses  Broadway  and  Longacre  Square  (for  descrip- 
tion of  this  neighborhood  see  pp.  168-172).  Above  47th  St  7th 
Ave.  offers  few  attractions  to  the  visitor.  As  we  approach 
the  Park  there  are  a  few  high-class  apartment  houses,  and 
at  57th  St,  S.  E.  corner,  is 

Carnegie  Hall  (p.  62),  a  beautiful  building,  founded  by 
Andrew  Carnegie  in  1890  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000.  Its  audi- 
torium seats  3000. 

Three  smaller  halls  are  for  recitals.  The  institution  was  intended 
primarily  for  orchestral  concerts  and  productions  of  other  classical 
music,  but  is  also  used  for  other  purposes,  such  as  Conventions  and 
lectures.  A  sm^ler  concert  hall,  called  Carnegie  Lyceum,  adjoins 
the  other  on  the  7th  Ave.  side.  The  building  also  contain^  offices, 
studios,  etc. 

W.  on  57th  St,  No.  215,  is  the  American  Fine  Arts 
Society  (incorporated  1889). <  It  was  formed  through  the 
joint  efforts  of  the  Society  of  American  Artists,  the  Archi- 
tectural League  and  the  Art  Students'  League,  for  the  purpose 
of  erecting  a  permanent  home. 

The  National  Academy  of  Design  and  the  National  Sculpture 
Society  have  since  secured  quarters  here;  and  here  also  are  the 
headquarters  of  the  American  Institute  of  Architects  (New  York 
Chapter),  National  Society  of  Mural  Painters,  Artists'  Aid  Society, 
American  Water  Color  Society,  New  York  Water  Color  Club,  American 
Federation  of  Arts  and  School  Art.  League.  On  the  main  floor  are 
four  galleries,  used  for  the  annual  exhibitions  of  the  National  Academy 
of  Design,  the  Architectural  League  and  the  N.  Y.  Water  Color  Club. 
They  are  also   occasionally  rented  to   other  societies  for  exhibitions. 

C.    Eighth  Avenue 

Eighth  Avenue  runs  N.  from  Hudson  St.  to  the  Harlem 
River,  becoming  Central  Park  West  where  it  skirts  Central 
Park  from  59th  to  W.  iioth  St. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  8th  Ave.  and  23d  St.  is  the  Grand 

Opera   House    (originally    Pike*s    Opera    House),    formerly 

owned   by   Col.   James    Fisk   and   Jay  Gould.     It   was  built 

in  1867,  from  plans  by  Griffith  Thomas, 

The  Grand  Opera  House  opened  Jan.  9th,  1868,  with  a  performance 
of  //  Trovatore,  and  for  several  years  continued  to  be  a  home  of 
Italian  opera.  Here  Pauline  Lucca  made  her  first  appearance  in 
America,  in  1873.  The  Erie  Railway  had  its  offices  on  the  upper 
floors,  during  the  period  that  Gould  and  Fisk  were  systematically 
demoralizing  that  road,  to  their  personal  profit. 


232  RIDER'^  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Architecturally,  the  building  is  interesting  as  representing  a 
pioneer  attempt  to  adorn  a  privately  owned  edifice  with  external  sculp- 
tures. Note  on  the  8th  Ave.  fagade,  on  the  third  story,  two  female 
figures,  heroic  size,  representing  respectively  Tragedy  and  Music. 
On  the  fourth  story  are  two  medallions  containing  portrait  busts  of 
Mozart  and  Shakespeare. 

From  31st  to  33d  St.,  E.  side,  i.s  the  rear  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Station  (p.  116).  Opposite,  W.  side,  is  the  new  *Post 
Office  (McKim,  Mead  and  White,  architects),  built  of 
marble  in  severely  classic  style  with  a  pillared  facade  of 
extreme  simplicity.  Across  the  front  runs  the  inscription 
from  Herodotus  "Neither  snow,  nor  rain,  nor  heat,  nor  night 
stays  these  couriers  from  the  swift  completion  of  their 
appointed  rounds."  The  structure  is  375  by  335  ft.  and  cost 
$6,250,000.  The  congestion  of  the  general  post  office  (p.  139) 
in  City  Hall  Park  has  been  relieved  by  placing  here  the 
executive  offices  of  the  postmaster,  inspectors  and  other 
officials  and  the  Railway  Mail  Service. 

On  the  W.  side  of  8th  ave,  from  33d  to  34th  st.,  stands  the  huge 
modern .  Printing  Crafts  Building,  a  22  story  structure  of  granite  and 
buff  brick.  As  its  name  implies,  it  is  largely  occupied  by  printers, 
engravers,  and  allied  arts  and  crafts,  is  necessarily  very  heavily  con- 
structed and  is  the  largest  and  finest  building  of  its  type  in  the  city, 
if  not  in  the  world. 

The  buff  brick  building',  diagonally  opposite  on  34th  St., 
to  the  W.,  is  the  Manhattan  Opera  House. 

The  stately  foyer  is  in  Regence  style,  with  walls  of  Yorkshire 
stone  and  massive  columns  of  Breche  violet  marble.  Two  wide  stairways 
of  Italian  marble  deploy  to  right  and  left  in  the  Grand  Foyer  de  Luxe 
(Louis  XV  style).  The  proscenium- boxes  are  crowned  with  an  ornate 
structure,  forming  the  background  for  two  sculptured  groups:  Genius, 
flanked  by  the  arts,  Painting  and  Sculpture.  The  ceiling  is  100  feet 
high,  with  a  huge  elliptical  dome  which  throws  into  relief  a 
sculptured  group  showing  Apollo  and  the  Muses,  Euterpe,  Calliope, 
Melpomene  and  Terpsichore.  The  allegorical  picture  in  the  ellipse 
represents  Music  attended  by  various  deities,  forty  in  number.  Above 
the  proscenium  is  a  mural  painting  (60  ft.  by  20  ft.)  representing  The 
Operas  at  the  shrine  of  the  Goddess  Music. 

This  opera  house,  one  of  the  many  ventures  of  Oscar  Hammer- 
stein,  enjoyed  a  brief  but  brilliant  period  of  artistic  success,  becoming 
for  a  time  a  recognized  rival  of  the  Metropolitan  Opera  Company. 
Subsequently,  an  agreement  was  reached  by  the  terms  of  which 
Mr.  Hammerstein  was  legally  bound  not  to  produce  foreign  opera  in 
New  York  for  a  specified  term  of  years.  The  Manhattan  has  since 
then  suffered  various  vicissitudes,  and  is  used  for  vaudeville,  photo- 
plays and  miscellaneous  entertainments. 

From  34th  St.  northward,  8th  Ave.  offers  nothing  of 
interest  to  the  stranger. 


MIDTOWN  WEST  OF  BROADWAY  233 

D.    Ninth  Avenue 

Ninth  Ayenue  runs  N.  from  Gansevoort  st.  to  W.  59th  st. 
where  it  becomes  Columhus  Avenue  and  under  that  name 
continues  to  Morningside  Park  at  W.  iioth  st.  (The  9th  ave. 
elevated  runs  on  this  st,  joined  by  the  6th  ave.  elevated  at 
53d  St.,  and  swinging  to  8th  ave.  at  W.  iioth  st.) 

The  vicinity  of  W.  20th  St.,  formerly  called  Chelsea,  was  once 
the  homestead  of  Captain  Clark,  a  veteran  of  the  French  and  Indian 
Wars,  who  named  his  home  Chelsea,  after  the  Soldiers'  Home  near 
London.  It  was  later  the  home  of  Clement  C.  Moore,  son  of  Bishop 
Benjamin  Moore  and  author  of  "The  Night  Before  ChHstmas."  The 
homestead  extended  approximately  from  19th  to  34th  St.  and  from 
8th  Ave.  to  the  river.  The  old  name  is  perpetuated  in  the  Chelsea 
Hotel  on  23d  St.,  and  in  Chelsea  Square,  the  block  between  9th  and  loth 
Aves.,  2oth  and  21st  Sts.,  occupied  by  the  General  Theological  Seminary. 

♦General  Theological  Protestant  Episcopal  Seminary 
(PI.  I — B4)  in  Chelsea  Square  was  founded  in  1817  and  is  af- 
filiated with  Columbia  and  New  York  Universities.  The 
group  of  buildings  are  especially  good  Gothic  architecture. 
The  West  Building  was  put  up  in  1835. 

The  Square,  with  its  green  lawns,  its  quadrangles  and  various  halls, 
refectory,  library  and  chapel,  has  somewhat  the  atmosphere  of  an 
English  College,  and  well  repays  a  visit.  Admission  through  the  main 
entrance  on  9th  Ave.  side.  Note  especially  in  entrance  to  Chapel. 
the  Bronze  Memorial  Doors,  by  /.  Massey  Rhind,  in  memory  of 
Eugene  Augustus  Hoffman,  Jr.,  (i863-f>i).  Left  door:  The  Annuncia- 
tion; The  Baptism  of  Christ;  The  Last  Supper;  The  Crucifixion;  above 
in  triangle,  The  Resurrection.  Right  door:  The  Sermon  on  the  Mount; 
Fishers  of  Men;  The  Holy  Ghost  Descends  Upon  Christ;  Chris' 
Giving  to  Peter  the  Keys  of  the  Church;  above,  in  triangle,  Christ  Talk- 
ing to  His  Disciples.  Over  doorway  in  ellipse:  Christ  the  Good  Shepherd. 

In  20th  St.,  to  the  E.,  is  St.  Peter's  Church,  with  a 
tablet  to  C.  C.  Moore,  who  gave  the  land  for  the  seminary. 

In  W.  24th  St.,  betw.  gth  and  loth  Aves.,  is  a  row  of 
small  houses,  built  1845,  known  as  the  Chelsea  Cottages. 

On  W.  23rd  St.,  betw.  9th  and  loth  Aves.,  is  a  row  of 
old  houses,  known  as  London  Terrace,  built  in  1845.  Op- 
posite, at  No.  436,  was  the  home  of  Edwin  Forrest. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Ave.,  at  361  W.  23d  St.,  is  the  Pasteur 
Institute.  The  building  was  erected  by  Col.  James  Fisk  for 
Josie  Mansfield,  on  whose  account  he  was  later  murdered 
by  his  business  partner,  Edward  S.  Stokes,  in  January,  1872. 

Betw.  33rd  and  34th  Sts.  is  the  New  York  Institute  for 
the  Education  of  the  Blind,  opened  in  1832,  with  a  capacity 
for  225.  The  children  are  trained  to  earn  their  own  liveli- 
hood.   Visiting  days,  Wed.,  9-12  a.  m.  and  1.30  to  4  p.  m. 

From  59th  to  6oth  St.,  W.  side,  is  the  R.  C.  **Church  of 
St.  Paul  the  Apostle,  and  in  the  rear  various  offices,  eccle- 
siastical and  secular,  of  the  Paulist  Fathers.  The  Church  was 


234  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

organized  in  1859.  The  present  edifice  dates  from  1876. 
Artistically  it  is  of  much  interest,  some  critics  ranking  it  as 
third  among  the  New  York  churches,  preceded  only  by  St. 
Patrick's  and  St.  John  the  Divine. 

This  church,  in  its  genesis,  underwent  some  curious 
architectural  transformations.  The  original  plans  of  the  first 
architect,  C/Rourke,  called  for  a  structure  on  the  order  of 
13th  Century  Gothic.  But  it  was  the  peculiar  good  fortune 
of  this  church  that  almost  from  the  beginning  Augustus 
Saint'Gaudens,  Stanford  White  and  John  La  Farge  were 
advisers  in  its  design  and  construction.  It  was  the  intention 
of  Father  Heckcr  to  make  the  church  a  monument  of 
American  art.  Furthermore,  O'Rourke  soon  gave  place  to 
Father  Deshon,  formerly  a  military  engineer  at  West  Point, 
and  room-jnate  of  Ulysses  S.  Grant.  Through  the  con- 
sultations and  suggestions  of  this  group  of  advisors,  the 
original  gothic  structure  was  transformed  into  a  Roman 
l;asiHca,  probably  one  of  the  most  impressive  specimens  oi 
its  type  in  America. 

The  dimensions  are:  285  ft.  long,  by  132  ft.  wide,  and 
the  seating  and  standing  capacity  combined  is  about  5000. 
The  lofty  nave  arches  are  carried  on  massive  columns  of 
polished  Syracuse  limestone.  The  windows  measure  27  ft.  by 
12  ft.  Those  in  the  Samrtuary  represent  the  Queen  of 
Angels,  surrounded  by  hundreds  of  angels,  and  flanked  by 
the  four  Archangels,  all  in  adoration  of  the  Blessed  Sacra- 
ment on  the  altar.  These  windows  were  made  in  Munich. 
The  fourteen  tracery  windows  in  the  nave  are  by  La  Farge. 

The  *high  altar,  with  lofty  baldachino  and  canopy,  was  designed  by 
Stanford  White,  and  has  been  favorably  compared  with  the  altars  of 
Santa  Maria  Maggiore  and  St.  Paul  beyond  the  Walls.  The  materials 
are  Numidian  marble,  onyx,  alabaster  and  gold.  Surmounting  the  altar 
are  three  bronze  statues  representing  the  Adoring  Angels,  by  Frederick 
MacMonnies;  the  ponderous  altar  lamp  was  designed  by  Philip  Martigny. 

In  the  Sanctuary  are  two  important  paintings :  the  Angel 
of  the  Moon,  by  John  La  Farge;  and  high  above  the  central 
altar  a  recently  added  companion  piece,  the  Angel  of  the 
Sun,  by  William  Laurel  Harris. 

On  the  R.  of  the  Sanctuary,  at  the  end  of  the  N.  aisle, 
is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Joseph;  on  the  L.,  at  the  end  of  the 
S.  aisle,  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  The  altars  in 
both  these  chapels  are  by  Stanford  White,  the  mural  paint- 
ings by  William  Laurel  Harris.  (For  several  years,  Mr. 
Harris  has  been  in  full  charge  of  the  interior  decorations, 
which  have  not  yet  been  completed.  E.  of  the  Blessed  Virgin's 
Chapel  is  that  of  St.  Paul.  The  mural  decorations  are  by 
Robert  Reid;  the  altar  piece  depicts  St.  Paul's  Martyrdom. 


r 


MIDTOWN  WEST  OF  BROADWAY  235 

Other  chapels  on  the  S.  aisle  are:  the  Chapel  of  St. 
Agnes,  with  decorations  by  Harris;  Chapel  of  the  Annuncia- 
tion, containing  a  marble  statue  of  the  Virgin  of  the  An- 
nunciation, by  Beta  Pratt;  also  a  fine  copy  of  Michael 
Angela's  Annunciation,  the  original  of  which  is  at  Bruges; 
Chapel  of  St.  Justinus  Martyr,  containing  a  bronze  reredos, 
by  James  Kelly. 

The  chapels  on  the  N.  aisle  are:  Chapel  of  the  Sacred 
Heart;  Chapel  of  St.  Catherine  of  Genoa,  with  a  painting 
representing  the  Crucifixion,  by  the  Marquis  Wentworth; 
Chapel  of  St.  Patrick,  with  two  murals :  i.  on  L.  of  altar, 
St.  Bridget;  2.  on  R.  of  altar,  St.  Columba. 

At  the  £.  end  of  nave  are  seven  panels,  embodying  ancient  symbols 
of  religious  thought,  such  as  the  symbol  of  Christ  after  the  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  with  seven-branch  candlesticks  on  either  side;  also,  a 
phoenix;  and  still  another  symbol,  twelve  white  lambs,  typifying  the 
twelve  apostles. 

Higher  up  is  the  Crucifixion,  Harris's  largest  and  most  important 
painting.  In  the  group  of  figures  at  the  foot  of  the  cross  may  be 
distinguished  Mary  Magdalene,  Mary  Salome  and  Mary  Cleophas:  on 
the  L.,  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  and  nearer,  kneeling,  the  Virgin  Mary. 

The  Stations  of  the  Cross  are  arranged  along  the  side 
aisles  and  across  the  E.  end  of  the  nave,  on  the  piers  sepa- 
rating the  several  chapels.  They  begin  at  the  S.  W.  corner. 
On  the  sides  of  these  piers,  which  form  the  side  walls  of  the 
chapels,  Mr.  Harris  has  planned  a  series  of  murals  repre- 
senting the  prophets  and  the  apostles.  Those  that  are  already 
completed  are  as  follows,  in  the  same  order  as  the  Stations 
of  the  Cross:  i.  St.  Philip;  2.  St.  Thomas;  3.  St.  Luke; 
4.  St.  John;  5.  St.  Mark;  6.  St.  Matthew;  7.  Isaiah;  8.  King 
David;  9.  Jonah;  10.  Daniel;  11.  Hosea;  12.  Jeremiah;  13.  St. 
Andrew;   14.  James  the  Son  of  Zebadee. 

The  dome  is  blue;  studded  with  stars  arranged  according 
to  astronomical  charts  made  by  one  of  the  Paulist  Fathers. 

Before  leaving,  the  visitor  should  note  the  exterior  sculptures  at 
the  two  main  entrance  doors:  South  Door,  from  L.  to  R. :  i.  St.  John 
of  the  Cross;  2.  St.  Theresa;  3.  St.  Philip  Neri;  4.  St.  Benedict;  5.  St. 
Clara;  6.  St.  Anthony  of  the  Desert.  North  Door:  7.  St.  Alphonsus; 
8.  St.  Catherine;  9.  St.  Thomas;  10.  St.  Bonaventure;  11.  St.  Bridget; 
I  a.   St.   Vincent  Ferrar. 

In  59th  St  is  a  notable  group  of  medical  institutions: 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  St.  is  Roosez^elt  Hospital;  on  the  N.  E. 
cor.  loth  (or  Amsterdam)  Ave.,  Shane  Hospital;  S.  E.  cor. 
6oth  St.  and  loth  (or  Amsterdam)  Ave.,  Vanderbilt  Clinic; 
and  on  loth  Ave.,  the  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons, 

Roosevelt  Hospital  was  incorporated  1864.  It  has  a  spe- 
cial operating  building  for  aseptic  treatment  of  operative  cases 
and  large  open  air  wards  for  the  fresh  air  treatment  of 
medical  cases. 


236  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  Sloane  Hospital  for  Women  was  erected  in  1886 
and  has  received  additions  until  it  is  now  a  7-story  building 
surrounding  a  small  court.  (Founded  by  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Wm, 
D.  Sloane.    Architect,  W,  Wheeler  Smith.) 

The  main  entrance  is  on  W.  59th  st.  A  bronze  tablet  bears  the 
inscription,  "In  recognition  of  the  wise  liberality  of  William  Douglas 
Sloane  and  Emily  Thorn  Vanderbilt  Sloane."  On  the  right  is  an  ob- 
stetrical operating  amphitheatre.  The  record  room  contains  the  his- 
tories of  28^000  obstetrical  cases.  In  the  staff  roipm  is  a  portrait  of 
William  J.  Sloane  by  Eastman  Johnson.  The  roof  is  arranged  to  form 
several  roof  gardens.  The  capacity  of  the  hospital  is -173  beds  for 
adults  and  100  cribs  for  infants. 

The  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons  founded  in 

1807  is  the  medical  department  of  Columbia  University.    The 

college  is  allied  with  many  of  the  hospitals  in  the  city.    The 

closest  alliances  of  the  college  are  with  Sloane  Hospital  and 

Vanderbilt  Qinic. 

The  South  Building,  erected  1886,  was  the  nft  of  William  H. 
Vanderbilt.  Architect,  IV.  Wheeler  Smith.  The  faculty  room  at  the 
right  of  the  entrance  contains  portraits  of  former  ^ofessors:  Samuel 
Bard,  by  John  Vanderlyn;  John  Watts,  John  B.  Beck,  by  Augusta 
Dudley;  Alexander  H.  Stevens,  and  John  G.  Curtis,  by  W.  T.  Smedley. 
The  Students'  Reference  Library  contains  1,200  volumes.  In  the  Stu- 
dents' Reference  Room  is  a  tablet  to  commemorate  fourteen  students 
who  "died  of  pestilential  disease  while  servixig  in  the  public  hospitals 
of  New  York,"  and  one  in  memory  of  Drs.  jT  B.  Gibbs,  G.  W.  Lind- 
heim,  and  H.  A.  Young,  who  "died  in  the  discharge  of  duty  during 
the  war  with  Spain,  1 898-1 899."  There  are  portraits  of  John  A.  Smith 
and  Thomas  Cock,  two  former  presidents,  by  Frederick  W.  Herring; 
and  Joseph  Moran,  president  of  the  Alumni  Association.  1868,  by 
William  0.  Stone.  A  bronze  bust  of  William  H.  Vanderbilt,  by  /.  Q.  A. 
Ward,  is  in  the  entrance  hall. 

The  Middle  Building,  erected  1886,  was  the  gift  of  William  H. 
Vanderbilt.  Architect,  W.  Wheeler  Smith.  It  is  arranged  to  connect 
the  North  and  South  Buildings,  and  contains  the  main  staircases  for 
all  three  buildings.  In  the  amphitheatre  are  portraits  of  former  pro 
fessors:  Edward  Delafield,  Willard  Parker,  by  Daniel  Huntington; 
Alonzo  Clark,  by  Daniel  Huntington;  John  C.  Dalton,  by  Eastman 
Johnson;  Henry  B.  Sands,  by  Morgan  Rhees;  Thomas  T.  Sabine,  J.  W. 
McLane,  by  Daniel  Huntington;  and  T.  Michell  Prudden,  by  Sargeant 
Kendall.  The  laboratory  for  surgical  research,  maintained  by  an  anony- 
mous fund,  is  on  the  second  floor.  It  is  devoted  to  the  surgical  treat 
ment  of  animals,  for  the  purposel  of  student  instruction.  It  contains 
operating  rooms  and  an  animal  hospital,  under  the  care  of  a  regular 
corps  of  surgeons  and  a  trained  nurse.  The  public  may  send  here  sick 
animals,  with  the  surety  that  they  will  be  cared  for  as  conscientiously 
as  human  patients. 

The  North  Building,  erected  1886  (architect,  W.  Wheeler  Smith). 
faces  W.  6oth  St.,  but  is  entered  from  59th  st. 

The  Institute  of  Anatomy  was  erected  in  1896,  with  funds  provided 
by  Messrs.  Cornelius,  William  K.,  Frederick  W.,  and  George  W.  Van- 
derbilt. Architect,  W.  Wheeler  Smith.  It  is  devoted  to  laboratories 
and  museums  of  anatomy. 

The  Vanderbilt  Clinic  (the  gift  of  Messrs.  Cornelius, 
William  K.,  Frederick  W.,  and  George  W.  Vanderbilt.    Ar- 


r 


MIDTOWN  WEST  OF  BROADWAY  237 

chitect:  JV.  Wheeler  Smith)  is  on  the  S.E.  cor.  of  W.  60th 
St.  and  loth  (or  Amsterdam)  ave.,  and  consists  of  the  West 
Building  and  the  East  Building,  surmounted  by  a  clock  tower. 

The  main  entrance  is  on  the  loth  (or  Amsterdam)  ave.,  and  admits 
into  the  waiting  room  for  the  clinical  patients.  There  are  many  con- 
sultation rooms,  an  operating  room,  laboratories  lecture  rooms,  etc. 
A  milk  station  is  kept  here  by  the  Dept.  of  Health.  The  Lefferts 
Museum^  the  gift  of  Prof.  George  M,  Lefferts,  Class  of  1870,  is  de- 
voted to  diseases  of  the  larynx.  The  roof,  arranged  as  an  outdoor 
canijp,  will  accommodate  a  hundred  tubercular  patients.  The  JSoard 
of  Education  here  conducts  a  school  for  tubercular  patients. 

E.    Tenth  Avenue 

Tenth  Ayenue^  runs  N.  from  West  st.  to  W.  59th  st.,  where 
it  becomes  Amsterdam  Ayenue,  again  becoming  loth  ave.  from 
W  20ist  St.  to  W.  2i8th  St. 

From  W.  27th  to  W.  28th  Sts.,  betw.  pth  and  loth  Aves , 
is  Alexander  Hamilton  Park,  about  3  A.,  used  for  baseball. 

At  30th  St.  in  a  rather  "squalid  tenement  district  is  the 
early  terminal  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  which  is  now 
a  part  of  the  New  York  Central.  A  few  passenger  trains 
still  start  here,  going  up  nth  Ave.  and  making  a  half-dozen 
stops  along  the  river  up  to  Spu3rten  Duyvil.  Few  people, 
even  native  New  Yorkers,  are  aware  of  the  existence  of  this 
30th  St.  station. 

In  W.  34th  St.  is  the  French  Hospital;  visiting  days, 
Tues.,  Fri.,  Sat.,  2  to  4  p.  m.,  and  St.  Mary's  Free  Hospital 
for  Children,  accommodating  122  patients;  visiting  hours, 
daily  from  3  to  4  p.  m. 

On  the  Ave.,  betw.  58th  and  SQth  Sts.,  is  the  DeWitt 
Clinton  High  School  for  boys,  erected  in  1906,  from  plans 
by  C  B.  J,  Snyder.  In  style  it  is  an  adaptation  of  Dutch 
renaissance,  with  a  many-gabled  roof  and  flat-arched  win- 
dow heads.    It  has  accommodations  for  3500  students. 

In  the  auditorium  are  two  large  mural  paintings,  on 
the  wall  behind  the  lecture  platform.  They  represent  re- 
spectively: I.  The  opening  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  2.  The 
Marriage  of  the  Waters.  They  were  executed  by  Charles 
Y.  Turner. 

Betw.  spth  and  60th  Sts.  is  the  College  of  Physicians  and 
Surgeons.  On  59th  St.,  the  Sloane  Maternity  Hospital  on 
the  cor.  of  59th  St.  and  loth  Ave. ;  and  the  Vanderbilt  Clinic 
at  the  6oth  st.  cor.   (p.  112-113). 

The  Ave.  here  changes  its  name  to  Amsterdam  Ave.. 

F.    Eleventh  Avenue 

Eleventh  Avenue  starts  at  W.  23rd  st.  and  runs  N.  to  59th 
st  where  it  becomes  West  End  Avenue,  joining  Broadway  at 


238  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

W.  107th  St.  This  St.  is  seriously  injured  as  a  street  by  the 
tracks  of  the  New  York  Central  railroad  which  lie  in  the 
roadway  and  over  which  freight  trains  move  at  a  snail's  pace. 
An  interminable  controversy  concerning  the  removal  of  these 
tracks  has  dragged  through  the  courts  for  years.  The  num- 
ber of  children  killed  climbing  between  and  under  these  cars 
has  given  the  st.  the  name  Death  Avenue.  The  worst  poverty 
in  the  city  exists  here,  and  the  atmosphere  of  desolate  squalor 
is  in  striking  contrast  to  the  lively  congestion  of  the  East 
side  tenement  district.  Very  recently  a  plan  for  the  per- 
manent elimination  of  these  tracks  has  been  tentatively 
adopted  by  the  railroad  company  and  the  city. 

From  52nd  St.  to  54th  St.,  and  extending  to  12th  Ave., 
lies  De  Witt  Clinton  Park,  of  7.38  A.,  with  playground,  ath- 
letic fields  baths,  band  concerts,  gymnasium,  shelters  and 
children's  gardens.  (The  Office  of  the  School  Garden  As- 
sociation is  at  4852  Broadway.) 

From  s8th  to  59th  St.,  extending  to  12th  Ave.,  is  the 
Interborough  Power  House,  where  the  subway  power  is 
generated. 

G.    Twelfth  Avenue 

Twelfth  Avenue,  begins  at  the  ft.  of  W.  24th  st.  as  a  con- 
tinuation of  West  St.,  and  runs  N.  to  W.  6ist  st  The  lower 
part  of  the  st.  from  24th  to  30th  st.  is  sometimes  called 
Thirteenth  Avenue  (W.  38th,  40th,  47th,  and  48th  sts.  are  not 
cut  through  to  the  river) .    The  ave.  runs  along  the  river  front. 

From  1 2th  st.  to  22d  along  West  St.,  extend  the  splendid 
Chelsea  Piers  erected  by  the  city  in  1902  to  1907  at  a  cost  of 
$15,000,000.  They  consist  of  9  granite  piers,  125  ft.  wide  and 
from  800  to  853  ft.  long,  with  250  ft.  of  water  between  each 
two.  They  are  occupied  from  S.  to  N.  by  the  Cunard  Line,  the 
French  Line,  the  Atlantic  Transport,  White  Star,  Red  Star, 
and  American  Lines  (see  Ocean  Steamships,  p.  42). 

The  plans  for  this  huge  enterprise,  known  collectively  as  the 
Chelsea  Improvefnent,  were  drawn  by  Warren  and  Wetmore.  The 
emaxnents  in  concrete  along  the  cornice  and  above  the  entrance  arches 
were  executed  by  H.  W.  Miller.  They  include  symbols  of  Land  Com- 
merce, etc.,  the  head  of  Aphrodite,  goddess  of  the  sea,  on  keystones  of 
main  pier  entrances;  and  of  Mercury,  god  of  commerce,  on  keystones 
of  bulkhead  entrances.  A  tablet  at  the  corner  of  the  northern  pier  com- 
memorates the  completion  of  the  Chelsea  Improvement. 

^  At  the  foot  of  23d  St.  are  the  ferries  of  the  Central 
Railroad  of  New  Jersey  (PI.  I— B4),  Pennsylvania,  Delaware, 
Lackawanna  and  Western,  and  Erie  Railroads  (p.  117). 

Bctw.  44th  and  spth  sts.  work  has'  begun  upon  a  series  of  piers, 
each  ox  which  is  to  be  a  thousand  feet  long  and  each  to  cost  three 
millions. 


UPTOWN   NEW  YORK 

I.     Broadway  and  the  West  Side  Uptown  from 

59th  to  iioth  Street 

{Except  Riverside  Park  and  Drive,  for  which  see  p,  251) 

From  the  Columbus  Monument  (PI.  V — B6)  at  59th  street 
north  to  63d  street  Roadway  offers  a  continuation  of  "Auto- 
mobile Row." 

At  63d  st.  Broadway  intersects  Columbus  ave.,  from 
Lincoln  Square. 

Between  the  two  avenues,  facing  N.,  stands  the  Hotel 
Empire  (PI.  V— B6).  Betw.  65th  and  66th  sts.  W.  side  is 
Loezi/s  Lincoln  Square  Theatre  (PI.  V — B6).  Diagonally 
across,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  66th  St.  and  Columbus  Ave.,  is 
Healy's  Restaurant.  E.  on  66th  St.,  No.  69,  is  the  St,  Nicholas 
Skating  Rink,  open  until  June;  admission,  50  c.  Beyond  is 
Durland's  Riding  Academy;  and  diagonally  opposite  is  the 
Armory  of  the  First  Field  Hospital,  N.  G.  N.  Y.  On  the  W. 
side  of  Broadway,  66th  to  67th  Sts.,  is  the  Hotel  Marie 
Antoinette  {C.  P.  H.  Gilbert,  architect).  Diagonally  oppo- 
site, on  the  E.  side,  betw.  67th  and  68th  Sts.,  is  the  armory 
of  the  First  Battalion  of  Field  Artillery.  East  on  68th  St., 
No.  121,  is  the  home  of  the  Camera  Club.  Beyond  it,  at  No. 
IIS,  is  the  College  of  Pharmacy  of  Columbia  University, 
started  in  1829  and  affiliated  with  the  University  in  1904. 

The  building,  erected  in  1894,  is  of  light  gray  stone^  buff  brick, 
and  terra  cotta,  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  and  fireproof,  six 
stories  in  height.  On  the  first  floor  are  the  Library,  the  Canby  herba- 
rium, the  dispensing  laboratory,  and  the  Trustees'  Room.  The  second 
and  third  floors  are  mainly  taken  up  by  the  lecture  room.  On  the 
upper  floors  are  laboratories,  etc. 

On  69th  St.,  No.  124  (E.  of  Broadway),  is  the  pic- 
turesque St.  Stephen's  Church  (P.  E).,  founded  in  1805. 

The  comer-stone  of  the  original  edifice  in  Chrystie  St.,  buried  and 
forgotten  under  Jater  structures,  was  recently  unearthed  and  has  been 
set  into  the  wall  of  the  vestibule.  The  windows  (some  from  England, 
others  by  Tiffany)  are  interesting.  That  at  the  W.  end  of  nave  shows 
the  Ascensioh;  above  the  altar:  Women  and  Angel  at  the  Empty  Tomb; 
to  right:  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount;  to  left:  Jesus,  Martha  and  Mary 
(1916).  ^ 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Broadway  and  71st  St.  is  the  Church 
of  the  Blessed  Sacrament  (R.  C),  and  opposite,  on  the  N.  W. 
cor.,  Christ  Church  (P.  E.),  a  romanesque  edifice  of  brown- 
stone,  red  brick  and  terra  cotta,  with  a  notable  octagon 
tower  and  open  belfry. 


240  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Broadway  intersects  Amsterdam  ave.  between  71st  st.  and 
72d.    The  open  space  is  called  Sherman  Square. 

Facing  upon  or  adjacent  to  the  Square  are  several  well- 
known  hotels;  the  Sherman  Square  Hotel,  at  71st  St.,  the 
Saint  Andrew  at  72d  St.,  the  Hargrove  at  112  W.  72d  St.,  and 
at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  73d  St.,  extending  an  entire  block  along 
Broadway,  the  huge  bulk  of  the  Ansonia  (Henry  J,  Harden- 
bergh,  architect),  one  of  the  largest  of  the  up-town  apart- 
ment hotels  (p.  13).  In  the  open  triangular  space  betw. 
72d  and  73d  Sts.  is  a  Statue  of  Giuseppe  Verdi  (the  com- 
poser, 1813-1901),  by  Pasquale  Civiletti,  of  Palermo. 

The  statue  was  erected  by  the  Italian  community,  through  the 
efforts  of  Chev.  C.  Barzotti,  editor  of  the  Progresso,  in  1906.  On  a 
pedestal  of  polished  dark  granite  is  a  figure  in  white  Carrara  marble, 
heroic  size;  standing  on  the  projections  of  the  base  are  four  figures, 
also  of  Carrara  marble,  representing  four  of  the  composer's  works: 
"Aida,"  "Faistaff,"  "Otello,"  and  "Forza  del  Destine." 

The  N.  W.  cor.  of  75th  St.  and  Broadway  is  the  site  of  the  historic 
Somerindyke  House.  Here  for  a  time  Louis  Philippe  lived  and  taught 
school.  During  the  Revolution  it  was  occupied  by  Hessians  (razed, 
1876). 

At  76th  St.,  E.  side,  is  the  Manhattan  Congregational 
Church. 

At  77th  St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  Hotel  Belleclaire  (PI.  V— A4). 

W.  on  77th  St.,  cor.  of  West  End  Ave.,  is  the  West  End 
Church,  the  fourth  of  the  nine  Collegiate  Churches  main- 
tained by  the  Reformed  Church  of  New  York  City.  It  con- 
tains a  fine  memorial  window  to  Anna  Van  Nostrand,  by 
Clara  M.  Burd. 

Betw.  78th  and  79th  Sts.,  W.  side  is  the  Apthorp,  one  of 
the  largest  apartment  houses  in  the  world,  built  by  the 
Astors.  At  79th  St.,  N.  W.  cor.,  is  the  First  Baptist  Church, 
a  romanesque  structure  of  gray  limestone,  built  ,in  1891 ;  it 
is  a  lineal  descendant  of  the  Old  First,  organized  in  1745. 
W.,  on  81  St  St.,  cor.  of  West  End  Ave..,  is  the  (P.  E.) 
Church  of  All  Angels. 

There  is  a  fine  altarpiece  in  mosaic  representing  the  Ascension; 
also  two  side  panels,  all  designed  by  Violet  Oakley.  Windows  by 
Louis  C.  Tiffany. 

The  Eighty-first  Street  Theatre,  on  Broadway,  is  one 
of  the  few  large  modern  theatres  in  the  west  side  uptown 
district.  It  contains  two  murals  by  Arthur  Brounet,  symbol- 
izing Music  and  Dancing. 

In  a  cottage  which  once  stood  on  the  £.  side  of  Broadway  at  84th 
St.,  Edgar  Allan. Poe  and  his  wife,  Virginia,  boarded  during  the  lum- 
mers  of  1843  and  1844.  It  was  here  that  he  wrote  **The  Raven,"  first 
printed  in  the  New  York  Mirror,  January,  1845. 

Betw.  85th  and  86th  Sts.,  E.  side,  is  Bretton  Hall  (p. 


THE  UPTOWN  WEST  SIDE  241 

12) ;  W.  side,  Euclid  Hall,  an  apartment  house.  Betw. 
86th  and  87th  Sts.,  E.  side,  extending  through  to  Amsterdam 
Ave.,  is  the  Belnord,  a  huge  apartment  house. 

W.  on  87th  St.,  S.  E.  cor.  of  West  End  Ave.,  is  the 
Church  of  St.  Ignatius  (Ritualistic),  a  simple  Gothic  struc- 
ture of  granite  and  gray  limestone,  erected  in  1901  (C.  E. 
Haight,  architect)'. 

It  is  open  daily.  It  contains  a  few  good  copies  of  Italian  masters; 
also  a  number  of  fine  windows.  The  one  over  the  altar  represents  the 
Heavenly  Country,  and  contains  figures  of  the  Apostles,  Mary  and 
Elizabeth,  and  the  Guardian  Angels  (made  in  Munich);  in  the  north 
wall  is  a  large  window  representing  the  Life  and  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Ignatius;  and  in  the  Lady  Chapel  are  several  memorial  windows  to 
former  members  of  the  church. 

At  93d  St.,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Lutheran  Church  of  the 
Advent  {W.  A.  Potter,  architect).  On  E.  side  of  Broadway, 
94th  to  95th  Sts.,  is  the  BontchNarragansett,  a  large,  quiet 
family  hotel.  Opposite,  occupying  almost  the  entire  block, 
is  a  recently  opened  model  market,  said  to  be  financed  by 
Vincent  Astor.  The  block  from  96th  to  97th  Sts.,  W.  side, 
is  occupied  by  two  large  theatres,  the  Riverside  (lower  cor- 
ner)  and  the  Riviera  (upper  corner). 

At  98th  St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  Unter  den  Linden,  a  restaurant 
with  an  open-air  garden  restaurant  (p.  23).  At  looth 
St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  Carlton  Terrace,  another  restaurant  with 
open-air  garden. 

At  104th  St.,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Hope'  Baptist  Church. 

E.  on  104th  St.,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  Amsterdam  Ave.,  is 

the  Society  for  the  Relief  of  the  Destitute  Blind  (founded 

1869)  ;  and  opposite   (E.  side)  the  Home  for  the  Relief  of 

Respectable  Aged  Indigent  Females. 

The  purpose  of  this  association  is  to  afford  a  home  for  indigent 
gentlewomen.  They  must  be  65  years  of  age  or  over,  and  must  pay 
an  entrance  fee  of  $300.  None  received  who  have  lived  as  servants. 
Capacity,  120.     (Established,  181 5.) 

At  io6th  St.,  W.  side,  is  the  site  of  the  Bloomingdale 
Dutch  Reformed  Church,  recently  demolished  (1916).  This 
church  celebrated  its  lOoth  anniversary  in  IQ06.  It  was 
founded  in  the  Dutch  mansion  of  Jacob  Harsen,  at  70th  st. 
and  Amsterdam  ave.,  and  called  "The  Church  at  Harsen viHe." 
The  open  space  in  front,  formed  by  the  juncture  of  Broad- 
way and  West  End  ave.,  which  here  ends,  was  named  Bloom- 
ingdale Square  in  1907;  but  in  1912  the  name  was  changed  to 
Straus  Park,  in  honor  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Isidor  Straus,  victims 
of  the  Titanic  disaster. 

Note  the  Straus  Memorial  Fountain,  a  low,  curving  granite  struc- 
ture, bearing  on  its  northern   face  an   inscription   commemorating  the 


242  RIDER^S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

death  of  "Isidor  and  Ida  Straus,  April  15,  1912,"  supplemented  by  the 
following  verse  from  II  Samuel,  i:23,  "Lovely  and  pleasant  were  they 
in  their  lives,  and  in  their  death  they  were  not  divided."  In  front, 
on  a  granite  bench,  is  a  half-reclining  female  figure  in  bronze,  sadly 
brooding  over  the  past.  {Evarts  Tracy,  architect;  sculptures  by 
Augustus  Lukeman.) 

Turn   E.   on    io6th    St.,    crossing   Amsterdam   Ave.    and 

reaching  at  No.  135  the  Roman  Catholic  House  for  the  Aged 

of  the  Little  Sisters  of  the  Poor. 

This  society  maintains  homes  for  the  aged,  over  60  years  old  and 
of  good  moral  character.  Its  other  branches  are:  No.  213  E.  70th  St.; 
Belmont  Ave.  and  183d  St.,  Bronx;  and  i6th  st.  and  8th  ave.,  Brooklyn. 

Proceeding  up  Amsterdam  Ave.,  we  pass  at  109th  St.  the 
low  brick  building  of  the  National  Academy '  of  Design, 
organized  1826.  The  members  bear  the  honorary  title  N.  A. 
(National  Academician),  or  A.  N.  A.  (Associate  National 
Academician).  The  Academy  holds  two  annual  exhibitions 
of  new  works  by  its  members  at  the  American  Fine  Arts 
Building,  215  W.  57th  St.  (p.  231).  The  Gallery  of  Portraits 
of  Artists  and  other  works  is  at  the  109th  St.  building. 
The  art  schools  in  connection  with  the  Academy  are  free. 

Betw.  109th  and  iioth  Sts.,  Amsterdam  Ave.,  is  the 
Woman's  Hospital,  designed  by  Allen  and  Collins.  This  was 
the  first  hospital  in  the  world  in  which  treatment  of  diseases 
of  women  was  undertaken  as  an  especial  branch  of  surgery. 
The  building  is  built  in  accordance  with  the  latest  hospital 
ideals  of  antiseptic  cleanliness.  It  contains  a  solarium  for 
convalescent  patients  and  a  chapel,  the  gift  of  John  E. 
Parsons. 

(For  description  of  the  remainder  of  the  street,  see  Washington 
Heights  section,  p.  343.) 

II.    Central  Park  West 

Above  59th  St.,  8th  Ave.  becomes  Central  Park  West, 
with  a  series  of  beautiful  apartment  houses,  facing  the  park. 

The  *Century  Theatre  {Carrere  and  Hastings,  archi- 
tects) is  at  62d  St.     (PI.  V— B6;  p.  58). 

At  the  S.  cor.  of  64th  St.  is  the  Meeting  House  of  the 
Society  of  Ethical  Culture,  erected  in  1910  from  plans  by 
Robert  D.  Kohn  (sculptures  by  Estelle  Rumbold  Kohn). 

The  society  was  established  in  1876,  "for  the  furtherance  of  a 
new  ideal  of  life,  based  on  the  supremacy  of  the  ethical  aim  above  all 
other  human  aims,  whatsoever."  The  New  York  Society  has  twenty- 
three  sub-organizations  devoted  to  religious,  educational,  philanthropic 
and  social  activities. 


CENTRAL  PARK  WEST  243 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  65th  St.  is  the  Evangelical  Lutheran 
Church  of  Holy  Trinity  (estab.  1868).  The  present  structure, 
erected  in  1902,  is  in  the  French  Gothic  style,  with  a  graceful 
copper  fteche.  At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  68th  St.  is  the  Second 
Church  of  Christ,  Scientist,  erected  in  1899. 

At  70th  St.  is  the  synagogue  of  the  oldest  Jewish  con- 
gregation in  the  country,  Shearith  Israel,  founded  in  1658  by 
Spanish  and  Portuguese  Jews.  The  original  grave-yard  of 
this  congregation  may  still  be  seen  at  Oliver  St.  and  New 
Bowery   (p.  149). 

At  72d  St.  is  the  Majestic  Hotel,  and  at  74th  the  San 
Remo  (p.  13). 

Betw.  75th  and  76th  Sts.,  at  No.  170,  is  the  Universalist 
Church  of  the  Divine  Paternity, 

Betw.  76th  and  77th  Sts.  is  the  New  York  Historical 
Society  (p.  244)  ;  and  from  77th  to  8ist  St.,  in  Manhattan 
Square,  is  the  American  Museum  of  Matured  History  (p.  278). 
W.  on  77th  St.  is  the  Manhattan  Square  Hotel.  On  W.  84th 
St.,  near  the  Park,  is  St,  Matthetx/s  Church  (P.  E.),  and  at 
the  cor.  of  88th  St.  is  th^  Progress  Club,  a  leading  Hebrew 
social  club.  W.  on  92d  St.,  just  beyond  Columbus  Ave.,  is 
St,  Agnes  Chapel,  the  youngest  of  the  Trinity  chapels, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $800,000,  from  designs  by  William  A. 
Potter  (PI.  V— B3). 

It  ia  a  cruciform,  romanesque  structure,  with  a  brown-stone  front 
and  plain  granite  walls.  The  ceiling  is  gold,  with  heroic  figures  of  the 
Apostles  done  in  rich  colors.  Glass  by  Tiffany,  including  a  large 
representation  of  Christ  the  Triumphant  King. 

At  Central  Pk.  W.  and  96th  St  is  the  First  Church  of 
Christ,  Scientist,  an  imposing  structure  of  Concord  white 
granite,  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  erected  in  1904.  (Car- 
rere  &  Hastings,  Architects.) 

At  395  Central  Park  W.  (cor.  looth  st.)  is  the  New 
York  Red  Cross  Hospital  (non-sectarian;  founded  1912).  At 
No.  19  W.  1 01  St.  is  the  New  York  Medical  College  and 
Hospital  for  Women  (est.  1863) ;  a  homeopathic,  non-sectarian 
institution.  Five  blocks  N.  at  No.  2  W.  io6th  st,  is  the 
General  Memorial  Hospital  (inc.  1887).  For  cancer  and 
allied  diseases.  Patients  unable  to  pay  are  treated  free,  pro- 
vided cases  admit  of  cure  or  relief. 


244  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

III.    The  New  York  Historical  Society 

The  **New  York  Historical  Society  (PI  V — B4),  is  situ- 
ated on  Central  Park  West,  betw.  76th  and  77th  streets.  Open 
daily,  except  Sundays  and  in  August.  No  cards  are  required, 
but  the  visitor  is  expected  to  enter  his  naipe  and  address 
in  the  register.  The  society  was^  founded  in  1004,  its  avowed 
purpose  being  mainly  the  collection  and  preservation  of 
material  relating  to  the  history  of  New  York.  In  the  course 
of  time,  however,  it  has  gathered  together  a  number  of 
valuable  collections  quite  beyond  the  range  of  the  original 
plan,  including  the  Abbott  collection  oi  Egyptian  antiquities, 
the  Lenox  collection  of  Assyrian  sculptures  (consisting  of 
thirteen  large  marble  slabs  excavated  by  Layard  from  the 
ruins  of  Nineveh),  and  a  picture  gallery  which  now  includes 
more  than  a  thousand  paintings.  Catalogues  of  the  antiquities 
and  the  paintings  are  on  sale,  costing  respectively  25  and  50 
cents. 

The  catalogue  of  paintings  contains  many  interesting  notes  regard- 
ing the  history  of  the  various  exhibits.  It  is,  however,  extremely 
awkward  to  use,  as  it  does  not  even  pretend  to  follow  tne  order  in 
which  the  pictures  are  now  hung,  and  nearly  half  its  contents  are 
stored  away  in  tjic  basement  or  placed  in  inaccessible  positions  among 
the  book  stacks.  The  following  list  attempts  to  give  the  principu 
exhibits  in  their  present  order,  but  the  collection  is  subject  to  frequent 
change   of   position. 

The  nucleus  of  the  Society's  art  collection  was  the  private  collec- 
tion of  Mr.  Luman  Reed,  which  after  his  death  became  the  New 
York  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts,  and  was  presented  to  the  Society  in  1858. 
Subsequent  additions  are  the  Bryan  collection,  presented  by  the  late 
Thomas  J.  Bryan  in  1867;  the  Durr  collection,  presented  in  1882  by 
the  executors  of  the  late  Louis  Durr;  and  the  Feter  Marie  collection 
of  miniatures.  In  the  method  of  numbering  the  pictures  the  Bryan 
and  Durr  collections  are  distinguished  respectively  by  the  capital 
letters  B  and  D. 

The  room  to  the  immediate  right  of  the  entrance  con- 
tains a  collection  of  interesting  relics  of  local  historic  events. 
At  the  northern  end  of  the  room  is  the  table  used  by  the 
Federal  Congress  in  1789.  Nearby  is  a  section  of  the  trunk  of 
the  Peter  Stuyvesant  Pear  Tree  (a  limb  is  preserved  in  the 
City  Hall;  see  p.  142).  Above  on  the  north  wall  are  two 
historic  jpaintings,  276.  Return  of  the  69th  Regiment  from  the 
Seat  of  War,  by  Louis  Lang,  and  442  Bowling  Green,  New 
York,  i860,  by  David  Johnson.  Other  relics  include  the 
Qock  Dial  from  the  Middle  Dutch  Church,  corner  of  Cedar 
and  Nassau  streets,  1731;  the  Iron  Railing  from  the  balcony 
of  the  Federal  Hall;  four  pieces  of  the  Equestrian  Statue  of 
George  HI,  with  stone  slab  of  pedestal,  formerly  in  Bowling 
Green  (p.  121 ) ;  Family  Coach  of  James  Beekman ;  and  an  elab- 
orate Punch  Bowl,  made  in  England  for  a  dinner  given  at  Castle 


THE  NEW  YORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY       245 

Garden  in  1824,  commemorating  the  landing  of  Lafayette  in 
New  York  City  (p.  121). 

Across  the  hall  through  the  first  door  on  the  left  we  enter 
the  main  Portrait  Gallery.  (Historical  characters  of  general 
or  local  interest,  and  other  works  of  the  leading  early  Ameri- 
can portrait  painters.) 

*  West  wall,  numbering  from  above  downwards  and  proceeding 
towards  left:  347,  349,  350,  351.  Artist  unknown:  portraits  of  Peter 
Stuyvesant  (1592-1672);  Nicholas  William  Stuyvesant  (1648-1698); 
Gerardus  Stuyvesant  (i 690-1 777);  Nicholas  William  Stuyvesant .  (1722- 
1780);  114.  Artist  unknown:  Fernando  Magalhaens;  486.  Artist 
unknown.  Rev.  Lazare  Bayard  (father-in-law  of  Peter  Stuyvesant); 
113.  Artist  unknotvn,  Christopher  Columbus;  487,  Artist  unknown, 
Mrs.  Lazare  Bayard;  B-293.  Benjamin  West^  Charles  Wilson  Peale; 
Z72.  Ashar  B.  Durand,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  183.  Charles  L.  Elliott, 
Daniel  Stanton;  B-285.  John  Singleton  Copley,  Portrait;  198.  William 
O.  Stone,  Thomas  J.  Bryan,  founder  of  the  Bryan  Collection;  127. 
Grove  S.  Gilbert,  Jesse  Hawley;  D-168,  John  Trumbull,  Asher  B. 
Durand;  369.  A.  B.  Durand,  J.  W.  Casilear;  56.  Durand,  Luman 
Reed,  Founder  of  the  Reed  Collection;  III.  Artist  unknown,  Hernando 
Cortes;  112.  Artist  unknown,  Americus  Vespucius;  488.  Artist  un- 
known. Bayard  Homestead  at  Alphen,  Holland,  with  Portraits  of 
Samuel  Bayard  and  Anna  Stuyvesant,  his  wife,  sister  of  Governor 
Stuyvesant;  38.  Durand,  Copy  of  Stuart's  Martha  Washington  in 
Boston  Athenaeum*;  B-308.  Kembrandt  Peale,  Mrs.  James  Madison; 
73.  John  Trumbull,  Portrait  of  a  Revolutionary  Officer;  193.  J.H. 
Laaarus,  Copy  of  Stuart's  Richard  Bayley,  M.D.;  119.  Joseph  Wright, 
Chief  Justice  John  Jay;  177.  Artist  unknown.  General  Anthony  Wayne; 
154,  John  Wesley  Jarvis,  John  Randolph  of  Roanoke;  271.  John  Van- 
derlyn,  Roger  Strong;  76.  James  H.  Shegogue,  Nicholas  Fish;  196. 
/.  R.  Lambdin,  Gen.  William  Irvine;  484.  Artist  unknown.  Gen.  Eben- 
ezer  Stevens;  115.  John  Wesley  Jarvis,  Robert  Morris;  301.  Trum- 
bull, Capt.  Daniel  Delaven;  257.  Durand,  Gen.  Aaron  Ogden;  123. 
Thomas  S.  Duchi,  153.  Artist  unknown,  James^  Riverton;  430.  Artist 
unknown^  John  Alsop;  299.  Artist  unknown.  Col.  Johannes  Knicker- 
backer;  299.  Artist  unknown.  Portrait  of  a  Gentleman;  230.  Artist 
unknortm.  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  231.  Artist  unknown,  Portrait  of  a 
Gentleman;  300.  Artist  unknown,  Herman  Knickerbocker;  263.  Artist 
unknown.  Portrait  of  a  Ladyj^  264.  Portrait  of  a  Gentleman  (both  from 
Gov.  Dongan's  residence  at  Castleton,  S.  I.  and  are  portraits  of  mem- 
bers of  his  family);  286  and  287.  Artist  unknown,  two  portraits; 
273.  Vanderlyn,  Henry  Benson;  121.  /.  W.  Jarvis,  Myles  Cooper,  D.D., 
Second  President  of  Columbia  College;  D-180.  Artist  unknown,  Claleb 
Heathcote;    272.    Trumbull,    Robert    Benson. 

South  Wall,  right  to  left:  95.  /.  C.  Hagen,  Gen.  Joseph  Reed; 
B-301.  Charles  W.  Peale,  Pieter  Johan  Van  Berckel,  First  Minister 
from  the  Netherlands  to  the  United  States;  B-302.  Charles  Wilson 
and  Rembrandt  Peale,  Gilbert  C.  Stuart;  457.  Ralph  Earle,  William 
Gilliland;  328.  Artist  unknown,  William  Walton;  266.  Jan  Van 
Goossn,  Cornelius  Steenwyck,  prominent  in  early  annals  of  New  York, 
as  Burgomaster,  etc.;  265.  the  Same,  by  unknown  Artist;  303  and  304. 
unknown  Artist,  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Alexander  McWhorter;  307.  Artist 
unknown,  Mrs.  George  Ogilvie  (Ann  McWhorter^;  251.  Artist  un- 
known. Rev.  John  Rodgers,  D.D.;  D-174.  Eastman  Johnson,  Mrs. 
Alexander  Hamilton;  iq^.  James  Sharpless,  Alexander  Hamilton; 
(Over  Fireplace)  178.  Artist  unknown.  Rip  Van  Dam;  327.  Artist  un- 
known, William  Walton;  179.  Artist  unknown,  Mrs.  Rip  Van  Dam; 
(Left    of    Mantel)    308.   Artist   unknown,   John    Lawrence;    89.    /.    W. 


246  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Jarvis,  Christopher  CoUes;  i6o.  Vanderlyn,  Aaron  Burr;  105.  James 
Sharpless,  Samuel  L.  Mitchell,  M.D. ;  D-i6s.  Artist  unknown, 
Mattn-iw  L.  Davis;  329.  Artist  unknown,  Mrs.  William  Walton  (Cor- 
nelia Beeirman) ;  B-317.  Rembrandt  Peale,  William  Tilghman,  Chief 
Justice  of  Pennsylvania;  B-307.  Rembrandt  Peale,  Dr.  Joseph  Priest- 
ley; 192.  John  Trumbull,  Bryan  Rossiter;  B-300.  Charles  Wilson 
Peale,    John    Beale    Bordley;    431.    Trumbull,   John    Alsop    King. 

East  Wall:  135.  Artist  unknown,  Philip  Schuyler;  312.  Artist 
unknown,  Mrs.  Augustus  Jay  (Anna  Maria  Bayard);  190.  John  tW. 
Bolles,  John  Watts  (from  Original  by  Inman) ;  133.  Artist  unknown. 
Lewis  Morris;  311.  Artist  unknown.  Sir  William  Johnson,  Bart,  (copy 
of  original  in  possession  of  his  great-grandson);  296.  Charles  W. 
Peale,  John  De  Peyster;  136.  Artist  unknown,  Catalina  Schuyler; 
298.  Artist  unknown,  Mrs.  Christopher  Champlin;  297.  C.  W.  Peale, 
Mrs.  John  De  Peyster  (Elizabeth  Haring) ;  205.  Rembrandt  Peale, 
rJeorge  W.  Be^^hune,  D.D.;  186,  James  Bogle,  John  Wakefield  Francis, 
M.D.;  9.  A.  B.  Durand,  Thomas  Jefferson  (from  original  by  Stuart); 
7.  Durand,  John  Quincy  Adams  (from  life) ;  269.  Robert  M.  Prait. 
Nicholas  P  Trist;  6.  John  Adams,  and  8.  James  Monroe,  both  by 
Durand,  from  orij?inals  by  Stuart;  2^2.  Samuel  S.  Osgood,  Henry 
Clay;  32.  Durand,  George  Washington,  from  original  by  Stuart- 
10.  Durand,  James  Madison  from  original  by  Stuart;  Durand,  Andrew 
Jackson  (from  life);  143.  John  G.  Taggart,  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  from 
original  by  C.  L.  Elliott;  146.  Samuel  S.  Osgood,  Edgar  Allan  Poc; 
B-311.  Rembrandt  Peale,  William  Bainbridge,  U.  S.  N. ;  247.  Artist 
unknown.  William  Shaler,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Ali^iers  and  Havana;  181. 
Samuel  L.  Wn!do,  Peter  Remsen;  B-310.  Rembfandt  Peale,  Jacob 
Jones,   U.    S.    N. ;    302.    Charles   Wilson   and   Rembrandt  Peale,    Gilbert 

C.  Stuart;  291.  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds.  A  Portrait  (in  his  earlier  style); 
B-309.  Rembrandt  Peale.  Stephen  Decatur.  U.  S.  N. ;  B-3T2.  Rem- 
brandt Peale,  Oliver  H.  Perry,  U.  S.  N. ;  Cephas  G.  Thompson, 
Charles  Fenno  Hoffman;  148.  Samuel  S,  Osgood,  Alice  Gary; 
147.  Samuel  S.  Osgood.  Fran^^es  S.  Osgood;  216.  Henry  Inman,  Fitz- 
Greene  Halleck;  191.  John  W.  Jarvis,  John  Stanford,  D.D. ;  121.  John 
W.   Jarvis,   John   C.    Kunze,   D.D. 

North  Wall:  B-286.  Thomas  Sully,  Guy  Bryan;  821.  George  P.  A. 
Mealy,  Daniel  Webster;  210.  7.  W.  Jarvis.  William  W.  Van  Ness. 
Justice  of  the   Supreme   Court,   N.   Y.;   94.   7.    W.   Jarvis,   Gov.   Daniel 

D.  Tompkins;  175.  Henry  Inman,  Henry  Rutgers  (a  copy):  211.  7.  W. 
Jarvis,  Ambrose  Spencer,  C.  J.;  334.  Samuel  L.  Waldo,  David  Grim; 
??>2.  George  P.  A.  Healy,  Lord  Asbburton;  292.  Artist  unknown, 
Myron  Hclley;  129.  Cephas  G.  Thompson,  Sebastian  Cabot  (from  a 
supposed  original  by  Hans  Holbein);  .^s2.  Gilbert  C.  Stuart,  Petrus 
Stuyvesant;  3j;3.  Artist  unknown,  Nicholas  William  StU3rvesant; 
354.    Artist   unknown,    Peter   Stuyvesant. 

The  hallways  on  the  ground  floor  form  a  cross,  the  long 

branches  running  north  and  south,  and  the  short  branches 

east  and  west.    The  pictures  in  these  hallways  run  as  follows : 

Eastern,  or  Entrance  Hallway:  North  wall:  B-299.  Charles  Wilson 
Peale,  George  Washington;  424.  Albert  Bierstadt,  View  of  Donner 
Lake,  California;  B-306.  Rembrnvdt  Peale  Thomas  Jefferson;  East 
Wall:  B-305.  Artist  unknown,  Alexander  Hamilton;  2<,z-  V'  Nehlig, 
Cavalry  Charge  of  Lieut.  Harry  B.  Hidden;  6-304.  Gilbert  C.  Stuart, 
John  Adams. 

South  Wall:  D-166.  Joseph  S,  Duplessis,  Benjamin  Franklin; 
B-303.   Gilbert   C.   Stuart,   George  Washington. 

Southern  Hallway,  East  Wall:  B-237.  Charles  Le  Brun,  Portrait; 
61.   Jean   Raoux,   Flora;    B-252.    School  of   Greuse,   Portrait    of   Louis 


THE  NEW  YORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY       247 

XVII,  Dauphin;  8-355.  Antoine  fVatteau,  Pleasure  Party;  6-276. 
Francois  Boucher,  A  Voluptuary;  B-275.  L.  /.  Schaat,  Portrait  of  a 
Lady,  as  a  Water  Nymph;  B-ioi.  Phillippe  de  Champagne,  Portrait 
of  a  Jansenist;  B-264.  Jean  Baptiste  Greuse,  Virginie  (a  Study); 
B-244.  Hyacinthe  Rigaud,  Portrait  of  a  Marshal  of  France;  B-226. 
Nicholas  Poussin,  Portrait  of  Duchesnois,  the  Flemish  Sculptor; 
B-337.  Sebastian  Bourdon,  Bacchanal;  B-241.  B-242.  Jean  Jouvenet, 
Scenes  from  the  Life  of  St.  Charles  de  Borromeo;  B-248.  Jean  Bap- 
tiste Pater,  Landscape,  with  Figures;  B-277.  Francois  Boucher,  Winter 
Scene;  B-340.  Antoine  Watteau,  The  Fortune  Teller;  B-260.  Jean 
Baptiste  Greuze,  A  Nymph  of  Diana;  B-240.  Charles  de  la  Fosse, 
Christ  in  the  Wilderness,  ministered  to  by  Angels;  B-22t.  Nicholas 
Poussin,  A  Daughter  of  Pharaoh  about  to  bathe  in  the  Nile;  B-246. 
Antoine  Watteau,  A  Venetian  Fete,  or  Ball  by  Day;  B-269,  Horace 
Vemet,  The  Duke  of  Orleans;  3-247.  Watteau,  Lanscape  with  Fig- 
ures; B-72.  Artist  unknown^  Autumn;  B-268.  Horace  Vemet,  Napoleon 
at  Charleroi;  B-379,  B-380.  fTafteoM,  Fatigues  of  War;  Relaxations 
of  War;  D-ii.  Artist  unknown.  Portrait;  D-12.  Piassetta,  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin;  D-ss.  Denner,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  B-229.  Gaspare 
Poussin,   Hagar   in   the   Desert. 

South  Wall:  B-67.  Salvator  Rosa,  Landscape,*  with  historical 
figures. 

West  Wall:  D-56.  B.  Denner,  Portrait  of  a  Gentleman;  B-191. 
Philip  Wouwermans,  Departure  of  a  Hawking  Party  from  a  Baronial 
Castle;  B-349.  /.  B.  Simeon  Chardin,  Still  Life;  B-2S1.  Chardin,  Still 
Life;  B-267.  Pierre  Paul  Prud'hon,  France  Triumphant  after  the 
Restoration  of  Louis-  XVIII;  B-270.  Bellangel,  Attack  repulsed  at 
Constantine,  Africa;  B-274.  Vellin,  Nymphs  and  Cupid;  B-253.  Hubert 
Robert,  Park  of  St.  Cloud. 

North  Hallway,  West  Hall:  365.  A.  B.  Durand,  Lake  George, 
View  of  Black  Mountain  from  the  Harbor  Islands:  B-298.  Charles 
Wilson  Peale,  Family  Group  (Members  of  the  Artist's  Family); 
74.  John  Trumbull,  Portrait  of  Dr.  Maurice  Swabeyj  59.  William  S. 
Mount,  Bargaining  for  a  Horse;  440.*  Albert  Bxerstadt,  Autumn 
Woods;  391.  Thomas  Birch,  Escape  of  the  Constitution;  23.  William 
S.  Mount,  The  Truant  Gamblers;  475-  R-  C.  Woodville,  The  Cavalier's 
Return;  483.  Artist  unknown.  Portrait  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher 
(crayon);  474.  John  F.  Kensett,  Landscape;  isp.  Thomas  Hicks,  Por- 
trait of  Elisha  Kent  Kane;  295.  Robert  W.  Wetr,  Portrait  of  Sa-go-ye- 
wat-ha,  or  Red  Jacket';  42.  Thomas  Cole,  Autumn  Scene — Conway  Peak, 
White   Mountains,    N.    H. 

North  Wall:  164  to  171.  St.  Memin,  Portraits  of  Eight  Indian 
Warriors  (crayon). 

East  Wall:  57.  William  S.  Mount,  The  Fortune  Teller;  28.  A.  B. 
Durand,  The  Wrath  of  Peter  Stuyvesant  on  learning  the  capture, 
by  treachery,  of  Fort  Casimir;  182.  Huntington,  The  Sybil;  294.  Artist 
unknown,  Mrs.  Martha  J.  Lamb,  seated  in  her  library;  D-176.  Emil 
Kosa,  Portrait  of  James  Riker;  103.  Charles  Wilson  Peale.  Alexander 
Hamilton;  i  to  5.  Thomas  Cole,  The  Course  of  Empire;  i.  The  Savage 
State;  2.  The  Pastoral  State;  3.  The  Consummation  of  Empire;  4.  De- 
struction; 5.  Desolation.  44.  Thomas  Cole,  View  on  Catskill  Creek; 
459.  Rembrandt  Peale,  Portrait  of  George  Washington;  482.  David 
B.  Cronin,  Fugitive  Slaves  in  the  Dismal  Swamp  (water  color);  460. 
Rembrandt  Peale.  Martha  Washington;  152.  William  Dunlap,  The 
Artist  showing  his  first  Picture  to  his  Parents;  423.  Frank  B.  Car- 
penter, Portrait  of  the  Lincoln   Family. 

\yest  Hallway:  The  door  on  rirht  opens  into  a  small  room  con* 
taining  the  Edwin  A.  Cruikshank  collection  of  early  New  York  prints. 


248  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Near  the  door  in  the  hall  are  two  portraits,  360  and  361,  by  Charles 
A.  Whipple,  Henry  Dexter  (a  Patron  of  the  Society)  and  his  son, 
Orrando    Perry    Dexter. 

The  door  in  the  western  wall,  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs, 
opens  into  the  Lecture  Room  (seating  capacity,  360).  It 
contains  a  few  good  portraits,  in  the  following  order,  be- 
ginning south  of  entrance: 

ass.  Vanderlyn,  Robert  R.  Livingston;  Huntmffton,  John  A. 
Dix;  420.  litnttxngton,  John  Divine  Jones;  120.  Oliver  Lay,  Chief 
Justice  John  Jay;  iss-  Etfra  Ames,  Governor  George  Clinton,  143. 
Huntington,  Earl  of  Carlisle:  60.  Huntington,  Sir  Charles  L.  East- 
lake;    Charles  Ingham,   De   Witt   Clinton. 

Stairway  to  Second  Floor,  right:  B-160,  Rubens,  Portrait  of  a 
Knight  of  the  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece;  North  Wall,  over  arch, 
B-aop,  Velasquejs,  Portrait  of  the  Infanta  Margarita  of  Spain;  First 
Landing,  B-X42.  Jacob  van  Oost,  A  Carnival  Scene;  second  stairs, 
right,  aoa,  203.  John  Trumbull,  Two  Views  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
(x)  from  Table  Rock,  (2)  from  the  road  two  miles  below  Chippawa; 
B-isa.  Rembrandt,  Portrait:  left,  B-161.  Rubens,  Hercules  strangling 
the  Nemean  Lion;  194.  Benjamin  West,  Hector  parting  with  his 
Wife  and  Child  at  the  Scaean  Gate;  195.  Benjamin  West,  Cryscis 
returned  to  her  Father,  Cryses. 

On  the  second  floor,  to  the  right  we  reach  The  Main 
Art  Gallery.  Opposite  the  entrance  to  this  gallery,  which 
extends  across  the  entire  front  of  the  building,  is  a  bronze 
statue,  The  Primitive  Marksman,  by  Fernando  Miranda, 
a  recumbent  Indian  of  heroic  size,  shooting  an  arrow 
from  a  bow  gripped  between  his  toes.  The  paintings,  begin- 
ning on  the  west  wall,  at  the  southern  corner,  are  as  follows : 

First  pilaster:  B-197.  Lucas  Cranach,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  B-201. 
Hans  Holbein,  Interior  of  a  Private  Chapel;  B-s8.  Guido  Rent,  Christ 
crowned  with  Thorns;  First  Panel:  D-28.  Charles  Le  Brun,  Triumphant 
Entry  of  Alexander  into  Babylon  (This  and  the  upper  pictures  in  the 
succeeding  five  panels  form  a  series  of  Scenes  from  the  Life  of 
Alexander  the  Great);  B-213.  Murillo,  The  Vision  of  St.  Francis; 
B-48.  Correggio,  Virgin  and  Child;  D-49.  Tempesia,  Landing  of  ^neas 
in  Italy;  B-31.  Giorgione,  Prince  of  Palermo — In  Disguise;  B-323. 
Copy  of  Spagnoletto's  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds;  B-122.  Copy  of 
Jan  Memling's  Annunciation;  B-23.  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  St.  John  Weep- 
ing; B-66.  Sassoferrato,  Virgin  and  Child;  B-200.  School  of  DUrer, 
Triumph  of  Christianity;  B-132.  Jan  de  Mabuse,  Virgin  and  Child. 
Second  Pilaster:  B-^o.  Petrus  van  Bloemen,  Cattle  Market;  B-33. 
Titian,  Xhe  Repose  in  Egypt;  B-121.  Jan  Memling,  Marriage  of  St, 
Catherine;  Second  Panel:  D-29.  Charles  Le  Brun,  Alexander  and 
Hephestion  entering  the  tent  of  Darius;  B-50.  Giulio  Romano,  Virgin 
ana  Child,  with  St.  John;  D-isS.  Bernardino  Luini,  the  Three  Marys; 
D-38.  Artist  unknown.  Virgin  and  Child;  B-235.  Pierre  Mignard, 
Holy  Family;  B-20.  Antonio  Dello,  Triumph  of  Julius  Caesar;  B-330. 
Artist  unknown.  Virgin  and  Child;  B-6  and  B-7.  Simone  Memmi, 
Virgin  and  Child,  and  The  Last  Judgment;  B-375.  Artist  unknown, 
Vir^n  and  Child;  D-43.  Lucas  Van  Leyden,  The  Last  Judgment; 
Arltst  unknoxvn.  The  Flight  into  Egypt;  B-ii6.  Jan  van  Eyck,  The 
Crucifixion;  B-25.  Raphael,  Birth  and  Resurrection  of  Christ;  D-99. 
Dutch  School,  i6th  Century,  The  Flight  into  E^ypt;  219.  Juan  de 
Valdes,  St.  Peter  after  denying  Christ;  B-43.  Artist  unknoxvn,  Virgin 
and  Child,  with  St.  John;  218.  Juan  de  ValdeM^  St,  John  \n  the  Deaert; 


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THE  NEW  YORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY      249 

B-35I.  Renier  Brakenburg,  Village  Fete.  Third  Pilaster:  B-22.  Peru- 
gino.  Adoration  of  the  Infant  Christ;  B-45.  Andrea  Mantegna,  Cruci- 
fixion. Third  Panel:  D-30.  Charles  Le  Brun.  Defeat  of  Darius  at 
Arbela;  B-37.  Tintoretto,  Portrait  of  a  Presbyter;  B-iio.  Christian 
IV.  E.  Dietrich,  Abraham  discarding  Hagar;  0-44.  Artist  unknown, 
Adorafion  of  the  Shepherds;  B-57.  Dotnenichino,  St.  Paul  borne  to 
Heaven  by  Angels;  B-236.  Eustache  le  Sueur,  The  Dead  Christ  sup- 
ported by  the  Virgin;  B-^73.  Ludovico  Mazsolino,  St.  Jerome  at 
Prayer;    B-47.    Ccrreggto,   Virgin   and   Child,   Mary   Magdalen   and    St. 

Jerome;  B-iii.  Van  Dyck,  Crucifixion;  D-142.  Leonard  Bramer, 
lagi  going  to  Bethlehem;  B-109.  Christian  W.  E.  Dietrich,  Presenta- 
tion at  the  Temple.  Fourth  Pilaster:  B-204.  Martin  Schoen,  Adora- 
tion; D-39.  Dutch  School,  isth  Century,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  B-199. 
Albrecht  Durer,  St.  George  and  the  Dragon.  (Entrance  Door)  Fifth 
Pilaster:  D-83.  Gerard  Honthorst,  Sealing  the  Letter — Effect  of  Candle 
Light;  B-3a5.  Michael  Van  Musscher,  Family  Group  of  Artist.  Wife 
and  Children;  B-367.  Matthew  Van  Helmont,  Temptation  of  St.  An- 
thony; D-52.  Bar  end  Comelis,  Kitchen  Utensils;  Fourth  Panel:  D-31. 
Charles  Le  Brun,  Alexander  cutting  the  Knot  of  Gordius;  B-202.  Hans 
Holbein,  Portrait  of  a  Professor;  jD-8a.  John  Van  Ravesteyn,  Portrait 
of  Lucretia  Van  der  Meulen;  D-84.  John  de  Baan.  Portrait  of  a  X^dy; 
B-329.  Bartholomew  Vander  Heist,  German  Baron  and  his  Family;  224. 
Anthony  Stevers,  Music  Party;  D-ioi.  Henry  M.  Rokes,  Dutch  In- 
terior,— Washerwomen;  B-i82.  Gerard  Terburg,  Portrait  of  William, 
Prince  of  Orange;  B-36S.  Gerard  Terburg,  Portrait  of  a  Gentleman; 
B-148.  Francis  Porbus,  Portrait  of  Henry  IV.;  215.  Gerard  Douw. 
Doctor  and  Bottle;  B-346.  Godfrey  Schalken,  The  Artist;  B-134.  Jan 
Molender,  Boors  regaling;  B-138,  Jan  van  Neck,  Portrait;  B-366, 
Gerard  Terburg,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  B-149.  Francis-  Porbus,  A  Noble- 
man and  Lady;  B-ioo.  Adrian  Brower,  Robber  examining  Coin  by 
Candle-light;  B-99.  Adrian  Brower,  Study  of  a  Man.  Sixth  Pilaster:  40 
John  Fyt,  The  Huntsman's  Tent — Game  and  Dogs  after  a  Hunt^ 
D-95.  Egbert  van  Hemskerk  the  Younger,  Interior  of  a  Dutch  Tavern; 
D-ioo.  David  Teniers  the  Younger,  Starting  for  tne  Pasture;  B-X25 
Cornelius  Huysmans,  Landscape;  D-118.  /.  F.  van  Bloeman,  Italian 
Landscape;  Fifth  Panel:  D-32.  Charles  Le  Brun,  Porus  brought  to 
Alexander  after  his  Defeat;  D-94.  Adam  Pynaker,  Landscape;  D-88. 
Gerard  Van  Battem,  Stag  Hunt;  D-128.  Nicholas  Berghem,  Land- 
scape, with  Figures  and  Cattle;  B-335.  Jan  Steen,  Family  Fete;  B-354. 
Adam  Pynaker,  Landscape;  D-121.  Adrian  Brower,  Dutch  Interior — 
Beggars  carousing;  D-103.  Rembrandt,  Combat  of  Cavalry;  D-87.  John 
Wynants,  Landscape;  Ii-120.  Bonaventura  Peters,  Storm  at  Sea; 
B-173.  Jan  Steen,  Interfor,  Family  Scene  (Portraits  of  Artist,  Wife 
and  Parents-in-Law) :  B-z67.  Jacob  Ruysdael,  Distant  View  of  Haarlem; 
B-144,  Adrian  van  Ostade,  Portraits  of  the  Painter's  Wife  and  Child; 
D-as.  Tempesta,  Cattle  Piece;  B«374.  Henry  Goltsius,  Family  Group; 
D-36.  Tempesta,  Cattle  Piece;  D<i32.  Karl  du  Jar  din.  Landscape,  with 
Cattle;  Seventh  Pilaster:  D.59.  Van  Westhofen,  Still  Life;  D-im. 
Simon  van  der  Does,  Hunting  Party;  B-78.  Jacobus  van  Artots,  Land- 
scape; D-130.  John  van  der  Meer,  Dutch  Windmill;  Sixth  Panel: 
D-33.  Charles  Le  Brun,  Passage  of  the  Granicus;  B-i66.  School  of 
Rubens,  Effect  of  Candle  Light,  copied  from  Etching  by  Rubens; 
D-138.  Van  Dyck,  Samson  and  Deli^h;  D-7.  Si>agnoletto,  Portrait  of 
a  Philosopher;  D-14.  Salvator  Rosa,  Landscape;  D-65.  Francis  Francken 
the  Elder,  Passage  of  the  Red  Sea;  B-i 76.  David  Teniers  the  Younger, 
Village  Fete;  D-140.  Emanuel  de  Witt,  Interior  of  a  Church;  B-X7S- 
Davia  Teniers  the  Younger,  Incantation  Scene;  B-179.  The  Same. 
Charles  V.  Leaving  the  Town  of  Dort;  B-145.  School  of  Ostade,  Head 
of  a  Boor;  B-203.  Joachim  Uytenwael,  Judgment  of  Paris;  D-ios. 
Isaac  Van  Ostade,  Tavern  Interior;  D-xod — D-xio.  Aarian  Van  Ostade, 
Allegorical  RepresenUtion  of  the  Five  Senses, — Sight,  Hearing,  Taste, 


L 


250  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Touch,  Smell;  Eighth  Pilaster:  D-75.  Jacob  Vanloo,  The  Flute  Player; 
D-139.  G.  van  den  Eckhout,  Historical  Subject;  B-126.  Karl  du  Jardiat, 
Portrait. 

North  Wall,  First  Panel:  226.  Diego  Velasquez,  Portrait  of  Cinq 
Mars;  B-87.  Nicholas  Berghem,  Italian  Scenery.  Alcove,  Central 
Picture:  B-38.  Francesco  Zucco,  St.  Benedict.  On  the  left:  D-53. 
Peter  Bout,  Halt  at  a  Tavern;  B-194,  Henry  Martin  Rokes,  Still  Life; 
B-205,  Valkenburg,  Landscape,  with  Figures;  B-147,  Cornelius  Poelem- 
burg,  Lanscape,  with  Figures;  D-104.  Daniel  Vertangen.  The  Deluge; 
B-206.  Valkenburg,  Landscape;  D-92.  Ary  de  Voys,  The  Happy 
Burgher.  On  Right:  B-i 62.  Rubens,  Landscape,  with  Figures;  B-89. 
Nicholas  Berghem,  Cattle  and  Herdsmen;  D-126.  Egbert  van  der  Poet, 
Burning  of  a  Cottage  at  Night;  D-86.  John  Miel,  Hunters  Resting; 
B-186.  Adrian  van  de  Velde,  Landscape,  with  Animals;  B-3S1.  Renter 
Brackenburg,  The  Village  Fete;  B-146.  Isaac  van  Ostade,  A  Dutch 
School.  Last  Panel:  B-112.  Anthony  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  Lady; 
D-74.  Otho  Marcellis,  Reptiles,  Birds  and  Insects;  B-114.  Gerard  Douw, 
The  Artist  in  his  Atelier. 

East  Wall.  First  Pilaster:  B-234.  Pierre  Mignard^  Portrait  of 
a  Lady  at  her  Toilet;  B-183.  Willimn  van  de  Velde,  Marine  View; 
B-178.  David  Teniers  the  Younger,  Boors  Regaling  and  Playing  Skit- 
tles; First  Window  Alcove:  D-64.  Solomon  Ruysdael,  Crossing  tht 
River;  D-143.  Matthew  van  Helmonty  Musical  Party;  D-69.  Jan  van 
Hughtenburg,  The  Riverside;  D-9.  Tintoretto,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Se- 
bastian; D-123.  John  Lingelbach,  A  Sea  Fight;  B-107.  Guillam  Dubois, 
Landscape,  with  Figures;  Second  Pilaster:  B-291.  Sir  Joshua  Rey- 
nolds, Portrait;  B-259.  Robert  Tourniire,  Portrait  of  a  Receiver- 
General;  B-141.  Casper  N etcher.  Portrait  of  Madame  de  Montespan; 
B«i292.  Benjamin  West,  Pallas  appearing  to  Achilles,  after  the  Death 
of  Patroclus;  B-26S.  Jean  Baptiste  Greuee,  Sketch  of  a  Female  Head; 
Second  Window:  D-146.  P.  B.  Ommeganck,  Landscape  with  Sheep  and 
Figures;  D-21.  Francesco  Albano,  Nymphs  disarming  Cupid;  D-98. 
Daniel  Vertangen,  Women  Bathing;  D-116.  John  Horremans,  the 
Elder,  Tavern  Scene;  D-122.  L.  Backhuysen,  Seaport;  D-119.  Albert 
Flamen,  Birds  and  Fish;  D-129.  Albert  Cuyp,  Fruit  Piece.  Third  Pi- 
laster: B-249,  Pompeo  BaWoni,  Portrait  of  the  Cardinal  de  Rochechouart ; 
B-262.  Jean  Baptiste  Greuze,  Portrait  of  the  Due  de  Choiseul;  43. 
George    Morland,    Dogs    Fighting. 

Third  Window:  D-145.  John  Wynants,  Landscape;  B-143.  Jacob 
van  Ochterveldt,  Lady  Playing  with  a  Dog;  D-137.  John  van  der 
Heyden,  Chateau  and  Park;  D-79.  William  -  Kalf,  Kitchen  Utensils; 
B-185.  William  van  de  Velde,  Marine  Vie)|i;  B-284.  M.  Dykemarts, 
Portrait  of  an  Old  Man;  D-134.  John  Tilius,  Playing  the  Bagpipe; 
D-148.  H,  Van  Hove,  Kitchen  Interior;  D-136.  Artist  unknown,^  The 
Pedler.  Fourth  Pilaster:  B-51.  Agnolo  Bronzino,  Portrait  of  a  Princess 
of  Florence;  B-198.  Balthazar  Denner,  Portrait;  B-130.  Nicholas Maas, 
Portrait.  Fourth  Window:  D-73.  Anthony  Waterloo,  Landscape;  D-131. 
Leonard  de  France,  Card  Players;  B-119.  Albert  Flamen,  Birds  and 
Fish;  D-i 27.  Egbert  van  der  Poel,  Burning  of  a  Cottage  at  Night; 
B-157.  Theodore  Rombouts,  Windmill  on  a  Canal;  D-S7.  Andreas  Both, 
Miracle  of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes.  Suspended  on  Wall  Brackets:  B-5. 
Giotto  di  Bondone,  Knights  at  a^Tournament ;  B-18.  U cello.  Birth  of 
John  the  Baptist.  Fifth  Pilaster:  B-243.  Nicholas  de  LargilUere.  Por- 
traits of  Two  Ladies;  B-353.  /.  B.  Simeon  Chardin,  Portrait;  B-343. 
Constantine  Netscher,  Portrait  of  Margeretha  De  Bije.  Fifth  Win- 
dow: B-189.  Jan  Baptist  Weeninx,  Ruins,  with  Figures;  D-89.  Minder- 
hout  Hobbema,  Evening  Landscape;  D-91.  A.  Verboom.  Evening  Land- 
scape; B-360.  Artist  unknown.  Marine  View;  B-250.  Pompeo  Battoni, 
Head  of  a  Boy;  B-371.  Artist  unknown.  The  Lovers;  6-193.  Jan 
Wyants,   Landscape;    B-79.   Jan   Asselyn,   Landscape;    D-18.   School   of 


THE  NEW  YORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY      251 

Correggio,  Holy  Family.  Sixth  Pilaster:  B-129.  Sir  Peter  Lely,  Por- 
trait; B-326.  Constantine  Netscher,  ^neas  and  his  Son  Ascanius  visit- 
ing Dido;  D-60.  School  of  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  Gentleman;  Sixth 
Window:  D-ias.  Peter  Verelst,  Tavern  Interior;  B-80.  School  of 
Asselyn,  Landscape;  D-124.  John  van  Geel,  Rendezvous  of  Smugglers; 
D-70.  L.  Backhuysen,  Marine;  B-105.  Albert  Cuyp,  Cattle  and  Figures 
in  a  Landscape;  D-117.  John  Horremans,  the  Elder,  Tavern  Scene; 
Seventh  Pilaster:  D-3S.  Hyacinthe  Rigaud,  Portrait  of  a  French  Gentle- 
man; B-261  Jean  Baptiste  Greuze,  Repetition  of  the  L'Aveugle  Dupe; 
B-180.  David  Tenters,  the  Younger,  Parable  of  the  Laborer  who  re- 
ceived a  Penny  (contains  portraits  of  Rubens,  Rembrandt  and  two  of 
Tenier's  Children);  Seventh  Window:  D-141.  David  Ryckaert,  Dutch 
Interior — Effect  of  Candle-light;  D-144.  Karl  du  Jardin,  Farmyard — 
Peasants  Playing  Cards;  D-150.  Barend  C.  Koekkoek,  View  on  the 
Moselle  River;  D-147.  Jan  Kobell,  Pasture-field;  D-iq£^  Anthony  de 
Lorme,  Interior  of  a  Church;  D-153.  Artist  «nfen^om,  Evening  Land- 
scape— Sunset;  D-13S.  Philip  Wouwermans,  Landscape  with  Figures. 
Eighth  Pilaster:  B-158.  Rubens,  St.  Catherine;  B-266.  Nicholas  Bernard 
Lepicie,  The  Sister. 

South  Wall:  D-114.  Lucas  Cranach,  Frederick  I,  Emperor  of 
Germany;  D-44.  Martin  Van  Veen  Hemskerk,  St.  Paul  preaching  at 
Athens;  B-333.  Artist  unknown^  Triptique:  B-ii.  Giottino,  A  Taber- 
nacle; (Centre  Alcove)  B-3.  Guido  of  Siena,  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
Four  Saints;  B-133.  Quintin  Matsys,  Tryptique;  B-15.  Buonamico 
Buffalmacco,  A  Tabernacle;  B-28.  Guadensio  Ferrari,  St.  George  and 
St.  Anthony  of  Padua. 

The  Reading  Room,  on  the  west  side,  above  the  audi- 
torium, contains  two  memorial  windows :  The  Arrival  of  the 
Dutch  Ship,  given  by  the  Daughters  of  Holland  Dames,  and 
The  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  designed  by  Mary 
Tillinghast, 

In  the  Basement  are  about  thirty  original  water-color 
drawings  by  Audubon  for  his  well  known  work  on  birds; 
also  a  collection  of  fourteen  oil  paintings  of  the  Incas  of 
Peru,  said  to  be  the  original  pictures  from  which  the  por- 
traits were  engraved  for  Herrera's  Historia  General  de  los 
hechos  de  los  Castellanas. 

The  collection  of  Egyptian  Assyrian  antiquities  is  dis- 
tributed in  cases  along  the  corridors  of  the  first  and  second 
floors.    They  are  in  most  cases  adequately  labeled. 

IV.     Riverside  Drive  to  Manhattanville 

{From  72nd  to  130th  Streets) 

♦Riverside  Drive,  with  the  Park  beside  it  (PI.  V — A1-5) 
extends  along  the  high  bank  of  the  Hudson  from  72d  to 
Dyckman  st,  affording  fine  views  of  the  river  and  the  Jersey 
shore.  On  the  river  side  of  the  broad  tree-shaded  boulevard, 
with  its  speedway,  brfdle  path,  and  pedestrian  walks,  is  the 
long,  narrow  terraced  park,  with  the  Hudson  below;  on  the 
other  side  are  a  few  detached  residences  and  many  beautiful 
cipartment  houses. 


252  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  Drive  can  be  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  a  motor  bus  (p.  29) 
or  from  a  public  carriage  (p.  28)  or  on  foot.  The  S.  end  is  reached 
from  72nd  St.  subwav  station;  by  the  72nd  st.  station  of  the  6th  and  9th 
ave.  elevated  lines,  here  on  the  same  track;  or  from  Broadway  or  Am- 
sterdam surface  cars;  The  N.  end  can  be  reached  from  the  128th  st.  sub- 
way station;  the  Broadway  surface,  and  all  Fort  Lee  ferry  surface  cars. 

Beginning  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Drive  and  going 
north,  on  the  right  betw.  73d  and  74th  sts.  is  the  Charles  M. 
Schwab  Mansion,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  city  residences  in 
the  world,  built  in  the  French  chateau  style  of  1500.  The 
house  contains  a  famous  organ.  The  land  cost  $860,000  and  the 
building  cost  $2,000,000  more.  After  the  deaths  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Schwab  the  building  and  ground  are  to  become  the 
property  of  the  city. 

At  76th  St.  is  the  Hamilton  Fountain  (Warren  &  Wet- 
more,  architects),  a  large,  shell-shaped  granite  basin,  intended 
as  a  drinking-trough  for  horses. 

At  the  S.  corner  of  89th  st.  is  the  residence  of  Schinasi, 
the  cigarette  maker.  It.  was  formerly  owned  by  the  late 
Isaac  L.  Rice,  who  named  it  Villa  Julia,  after  his  wife,  the 
founder  of  the  Society  for  the  Suppression  of  Unnecessary 
Noise.  At  the  N.  corner,  the  residence  of  the  widow  of 
Bishop  Potter, 

The  ^Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Monument,  well  placed  on  a 
bluff  overlooking  the  river,  is  a  circular  marble  structure, 
erected  in  1902,  at  a  cost  of  $250,000,  to  commemorate  the 
valor  of  the  soldiers  and  sailors  who  fought  in  defence  of  the 
Union  from  1861  to  1865.  (C.  W.  and  A,  A.  Houghton, 
architects;  Paul  E.  Duboy,  sculptor). 

The  monument  is  of  white  marble  in  the  form  of  a  small  circular 
Greek  Temple,  resembling  the  choragic  Monument  of  Lysicrates,  with 
a  peristyle  of  12  Corinthian  columns  and  a  frieze  of  eagles.  A  clear 
echo  can  be  heard  within.  In  front  of  the  monument  is  a  copy  of 
Houdin's  statue  of  Washington,  a  gift  from  the  school  children.  Fine 
View  here,  of  the  Palisades  and  Ft.  Washington  Point. 

Near  90th  St.  is  the  former  residence  of  John  H. 
Matthews,  who  won  a  fortune  from  effervescent  soda;  it  is 
a  noticeable  house,  with  numerous  balconies  and  a  red- 
tiled  roof. 

At  Riverside  Drive  and  93d  St.  is  the  new  Joan  of  Arc 
Statue,  an  equestrian  bronze  figure,  from  models  by  Anna 
Vaughn  Hyatt,  on  a  pedestal  designed  by  John  J,  Van  Pelt. 

The  Maid  of  Orleans  is  represented  with  the  visor  of  her  helmet 
raised  as  she  gazes  upward,  her  slender  arm  holding  her  great  sword 
aloft.  Part  of  the  stone  of  the  pedestal  came  from  the  recently  demol- 
ished prison  in  Rouen,  in  which  she  was  confined.  The  statue  was  un- 
veiled Dec.  6th,  1915* 


RIVERSIDE  DRIVE  253 

At  96th  St.  and  the  Drive,  upper  cor.,  is  the  CHjf  Apart- 
ment House,  a  narrow,  twelve-story  structure  of  sandstone 
and  buff  brick.  At  the  second  elevation  is  a  frieze  in  low 
relief,  carrying  out  symbolically  the  idea  of  Arizona  Cliff- 
dwellers,  mountain  lions,  rattlesnakes,  buffalo  skulls,  etc. 

At  96th  St.,  on  a  hill  N.  E.  of  the  viaduct  was  the  site  of  the 
Strykers  Bay  Mansion.  In  1837  ^n  old  elm  on  the  property  was  about 
to  be  cut  down,  but  was  saved  as  a  result  of  the  familiar  poem  by 
George  W.  Morris,  "Woodman,  Spare  That  Tree." 

The  large  covered  vessel  lying  at  the  foot  of  97th  st.  is  the  old 
wooden  fri^te  "Granite  State,"  now  occupied  by  the  ist  Battalion, 
Naval  Militia.  -A  sea-going  naval  vessel  for  practice  is  moored  beside 
her. 

At  looth  St.  is  the  Firemen's  Memorial,  erected  in  1913 
to  commemorate  the  heroic  deeds  of  New  York  Firemen, 
(designed  by  H.  Van  Bur  en  Magonigle,  with  sculptures  by 
A  ttillio  PiccirilU) . 

It  is  a  simple  oblong  monument  of  limestone.  On  the  river  side, 
.in  low  relief  is  a  spirited  rendering  of  a  fire-engine  with  horses  at 
full  speed.  At  the  N.  and  S.  ends  are  sculptured  groups:  (i)  A  female 
figure  clasping  a  man's  dead  body;  (2)  A  female  figure  protecting  a 
little  child. 

At  I02d  St.,  the  house  set  back  and  surrounded  by  a 
garden,  belongs  to  Mrs.  Bertha  Foster,  the  widow  of  the  in- 
ventor of  the  patent  glove  hook.  The  house  is  built  entirely 
of  iron. 

At  io6th  St.  is  an  equestrian  statue  in  bronze  of  General 
Frans  Sigel  (1824-1902)  by  Karl  Bitter,  « 

At  io8th  St.  is  the  highest  and  most  sightly  part  of  the 
drive. 

From  ii6th  St.  looking  northward,  one  sees  examples 
of  many  new  types  of  apartment  house  buildings. 

At  I22d  St.  Riverside  Drive  forks  to  R.  and  L.,  enclosing 
a  narrow  central  triangle,  containing  the  chief  monument  in 
point  of  interest  on  the  whole  length  of  the  Drive 

♦Grant's  Tomb.  Adm.  free  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  The  mauso- 
leum is  somewhat  back  from  the  bank  of  the  Hudson,  but 
visible  from  many  points  in  the  harbor  and  river.  The  height 
is  150  feet  from  the  ground  and  280  ft.  above  mean  high 
water.  The  tomb  was  built  from  design  of  /.  H.  Duncan 
and  finished  in  1897.  The  material  is  white  granite  quarried 
in  North  Jay,  Me.  Only  large  and  flawless  blocks  were  used. 
The  interior  of  the  tomb  is  lined  with  snow  white  marble 
from  Lee,  Mass.  The  cost  was  $600,000  donated  by  90,000 
subscribers,  most  of  whom  were  New  York  citizens,  none  of 
whom  gave  over  $5000. 


254  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  entrance  is  on  the  south  side,  and  is  approached  by  steps  70  ft. 
wide  and  a  portico  formed  of  double  lines  of  columns.  The  first  story  is 
Doric  in  style,  90  ft.  square  and  finished  with  a  cornice  and  a  parapet, 
at  a  height  from  grade  72  ft.;  above  this  is  a  circular  cupola  70  ft.  in 
diameter  supported  by  Ionic  columns,  and  surrounded  with  a  pyramidal 
top.  The  interior  is  cruciform  in  plan,  76  ft.  at  the  greatest  dimen- 
sion; the  four  corners  being  piers  of  masonry  connected  at  the  top  by 
coffered  arches,  the  top  of  wnich  are  50  ft.  from  the  floor  level.  On 
these  arches  rests  an  open  circular  gallery  of  iio  ft.  inner  diameter.  The 
surfaces  between  the  planes  of  the  faces  of  the  arches  and  the  circular 
dome  form  pendentives  which  are  decorated  in  high-relief  sculpture, 
the  work  of  /.  Massey  Rhind,  and  emblematic  of  the  oirth,  military  and 
civil^  life  and  death  of  General  Grant.  (1822- 1885.)  The  sarcophagus 
resting  in  the  open  crypt,  is  a  single  piece  of  red  granite  bearing  the 
name  Ulysses  S.  Grant,  supported  by  a  granite  pedestal  A  similar  sar- 
cophagus beside  it  contains  tne  remains  of  his  widow.  The  stone  for  the 
sarcophagi  was  quarried  at  Monteiro,  Wis.  The  approach  to  the  crypt 
is  by  stairways  which  give  access  to  a  passage  encircling  the  space 
dedicated  to  the  sarcophagi.  This  space  is  surrounded  by  sciuare  columns 
supportixig  paneled  marble  ceilings  and  entablature.  Adjoining  rooms 
contain  fmgs  of  the  Civil  War. 

(Grant's  Tomb  may  conveniently   be   reached  by  Riverside  Motor 
bus  running  up  5th  ave.  to  57th  St.;  Broadway  subway  to  ix6th  St.,  or 
128th  St.   (Manhattan  st.'J,  walk  W.;  or  Broadway  surface  car  to   i22d- 
st.,  walk  W.) 

Behind  the  tomb  is  a  Gingko  Tree,  (Salisburia  adianti- 
folia),  sent  by  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  Chinese  statesman,  and 
planted  by  Yang-Yu,    A  tablet  in  English  and  Chinese  reads: 

"This  tree  is  planted  at  the  side  of  the  tomb  of  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant, 
ex-President  of  the  United  States  of  America,  for  the  purpose  of  com- 
memorating ^is  greatness,  by  Li  Hung  Chang,  Guardian  of  the  Prince, 
Grand  Secretary  of  State,  Earl  qf  the  ^irst  Order  Yang  Hu,  Envoy 
Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  of  China,  Vice-President 
of  the  Board  of  Censors,  Kwang  Hsu,  23d  year,  4th  moon,  May  1897." 
N.  E.  of  the  tomb  are  Japanese  cherry  trees  and  a  tablet  presented 
by  the  Japanese  government  in   19 12  in  honor  of  General  Grant. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Tomb  is  a  fine  Viaduct  over  Manhattan- 
ville  Valley,  from  which  sweeping  views  of  the  Palisades, 
the  Hudson,  and  Fort  Washington  Point,  can  be  obtained. 

The  square  white  house  immediately  north  of  Grant's 
Tomb  is  the  Claremont  (PI.  XI — A7),  a  noted  al  fresco 
restaurant. 

(Motor  bus  up  Riverside  Drive;  Broadway  subway  to  ii6th  St., 
walk  W.  to  Riverside,  N.  to  i22d  st.  or  remain  on  subway  to  128th  st.; 
Broadway  surface  car  to   i22d  St.,  walk  W.   2  blocks.) 

The  house  was  built  soon  after  the  Revolution  by 
Michael  Hogan  and  named  after  Claremont,  the  rojral  resi- 
dence in  Surrey  of  Prince  William  (later  King  William  IV.) 
who  was  a  fellow  midshipman  with  Hogan  in  the  English 
navy  and  visited  him  in  America  (according  to  other  authori- 
ties, it  was  named  after  County  Clare,  Ireland,  in  which 
Hogan  was  born).  Later  occupied  by  the  Earl  of  Devon. 
In  181S  Joseph  Bonaparte  (later  King  of  Spain)  lived  here. 
It  has  been  a  restaurant  since  1872.    The  trial  trip  of  the  first 


MORNINGSIDE  HEIGHTS  255 

steamship,  Fulton's  Clermont,  took  place  on  the  river  opposite 

this  point. 

Between  The  Claremont  and  Grant's  Tomb  is  a  child's  grave 
marked  by  a  tombstone  bearing  the  quaint  inscription:  "Erected  to  the 
memory  of  an  amiable  child,  St.  Clair  Pollock,  died  15  July,  i797»  ^Q 
the  5  year  of  his  age.  Man  that  is  born  of  woman  is  of  few  years,  and 
ful  of  trouble.  He  cometh  forth  like  a  flower  and  is  cut  down;  he 
fleeth  also  as  a  shadow  and  continueth  not."  This  child  was  the  nephew 
of  George  Pollock,  a  New  York  merchant  who  at  one  time  owned  Clare- 
mont. In  his  conveyance  of  the  property  in  1800  he  stated:  "There  is 
small  enclosure  near  your  boundary  fence  within  which  lies  the  remains 
of  a  favorite  child,  covered  by  a  marble  monument.  You  will  confer 
a  peculiar  and  interesting  favor  upon  me  by  allowing  me  to  convey  the 
enclosure  to  you,  so  that  you  will  consider  it  a  part  of  vour  own  estate, 
keeping  it,  however,  always  enclosed  and  sacred.  There  is  a  white 
marble  funeral  urn  prepared  to  place  on  the  monument  which  will  not 
lessen  its  beauty." 

V.     Morningside  Heights 

{East  of  Riverside  Drive  from  iioth  to  125th  Streets) 

Morningside  Park,  W.  and  N.  of  Central  Park,  extends 
from  I  loth  st.  to  123d  st.  It  occupies  rocky  ground,  rising  to  a 
height  of  100  ft.,  with  the  battlement  and  heavy  staircases. 
At  123d  St.  is  Fort  Laight,  a  blockhouse  built  to  defend  the 
city  in  the  War  of  1812,  marked  by  a  tablet  erected  in  1904 
by  the  Women's  Auxiliary  to  the  American  Scenic  and  His- 
torical Preservation  Society.  At  114th  st.  and  Manhattan 
ave.,  E.  of  the  Park,  is  a  statue  group  of  Washington  and  La- 
fayette, by  Bartholdi,  presented  by  Charles  Broadway  Rouss. 

The  Battle  of  Ha&lem  Heights^  the  great  historic  event  of  this 
neighborhood,  occurred  Sept.  16,  1776.  The  American  Army  had  re- 
treated from  Long  Island,  up  Manhattan  Island,  to  above  what  is  now 
Manhattanville  Valley,  around  125th  st.  and  Manhattan  st.,  then  called 
"The  Hollow  Way,"  with  headquarters  at  Jumel  Mansion.  The  British 
had  followed  and  encamped  the  night  preceding  the  battle,  about  104th 
St.  The  Americans  induced  the  British  to  advance  into  the  valley.  at> 
tacked  them  in  front  and  by  a  flank  movement,  driving  them  back  to 
the  famous  buckwheat  fleld  where  Barnard  College  now  stands.     The 


heaviest  fighting  took  place  here  from  la  o'clock  till  2  p.  m.  The  Ameri- 
can army  was  victorious  in  the  engagement,  the  British  retreating.  The 
Americans  lost  30  men  and  had  100  wounded.     On  the  west  wall  of  the 


Hall  of  Engineering  of  Columbia  University  is  a  bronze  tablet  with  the 
inscription:  "To  commemorate  the  battle  of  Harlem  Heights,  won  by 
fVashtngton's  troops  on  this  site,  September  16,  1776.  Erected  by  the 
Sons  of  the  Revolution  in  the  State  of  New  York. 

Passing  N.  on  Amsterdam  Ave.  from  iioth  st.  the 
traveller  will  note  a  number  of  imposing  structures. 

The  Protestant  Episcopal  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the 
Divine  (PI.  V — Bi)  occupies  the  former  site  of  the  Leake 
and  Watts  Orphan  Asylum,  extending  from  iioth  to  113th 
sts.  and  from  Morningside  to  Amsterdam  aves.  (see  p.  257). 

The  large  marble  building  on  Amsterdam  Ave.  from  113th 
St.  to  114th  St.  is  St.  Luke's  Hospital.    Its  capacity  is  300 


ST.  JOHN  THE  DIVINE  257 

dormitory  room  and  the  Chapel.  The  chapel  is  the  ^ft  of  Mrs.  D. 
Willis  James,  in  memory  of  her  husband.  The  nave  is  100  ft.  x  40  ft. 
The  chapel  seats  400  on  the  floor  and  100  in  the  gallery,  beside  the 
faculty  seats. 

A  commemorative  limestone  tablet  is  set  in  the  N.  wall  of  the 
chapel  vestibule.  Opposite,  on  the  stairway  approach  from  the  quad- 
rangle entrance,  is  a  tablet  of  dedication  to  Dr.  William  Adflms,  taken 
from  the  Adams  Chapel  in  the  old  Seminary. 

The  memorial  windows  in  the  S.  wall  shows  the  twelve  Apostles: 
"Go  ye  into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  Gospel  to  every  creature," 
it  is  dedicated  to  "Daniel  Willis  James,   1822-1907." 

In  the  chapel  tower  is  a  fully  equipped  infirmary.  The  seminary  is 
affiliated  with  New  York  University  (p.  360)  and  is  independent  of 
ecclesiastical  control.     The  attendance  is  about  250  students. 

Manhattan  College,  Broadway  and  131st  St.  (PI.  XI — 
A8)  is  a  Catholic  institution  first  opened  as  an  academy  in 
Canal  St.  in  1849.  It  moved  to  its  present  quarters  in  1863. 
Contains  High  School  and  College  Depts. 

VI.    The  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine 

**The  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine  (Protestant 
Episcopal)  extends  from  iioth  to  113th  streets  and  from 
Morningside  to  Amsterdam  aves.  (PI.  5^— Bi).  This  land  was 
acquired  in  1887  at  a  cost  of  $850,000.  (The  Cathedral  may 
be  reached  by  Broadway  subway  to  Cathedral  Parkway; 
6th  Ave.  elevated  to  iioth  St.;  surface  cars  on  Amsterdam 
Ave.  or  Broadway  and  5th  ave.  busses).  The  Cathedral  is 
open  every  day  in  the  year  from  7  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Services 
are  held  Sun.,  8  a.  m.,  11  a.  m.,  4  p.  m.  Week  days,  7:30  a.  m. 
and  5  p.  m.  The  building  was  begun  in  1892,  and  will  not 
be  completed  for  some  years.  The  plans,  drawn  by  Heins 
and  La  Farge,  were  chosen  in  a  competition  of  25  architects 
in  1891.  But  upon  the  death  of  Mr.  Heins  the  contracts  with 
this  firm  was  ended.  Upon  the  completion  of  the  choir 
in  1911  they  appointed  Ralph  Adams  Cram,  of  the  firm  of 
Cram  and  Ferguson,  whose  new  plans  involve  some  radical 
changes,  as  supervising  architect. 

In  their  report  to  the  Trustees  the  new  architects  held  that  it 
would  be  impossible  to  add  to  the  existing  Cathedral  a  nave  and  tran- 
sept closely  following  the  traditional  lines  ox  French  and  English 
Cathedrals,  and  consisting  of  a  series  of  narrow  bays  extending  with- 
out variation  to  the  N.  S.  and  W.  terminations.  Their. new  plans  sub- 
stitute a  system  of  great  sc[uares,  the  nave  consisting  of  a  sequence 
of  four  of  these  squares,  supported  on  powerful  piers,  with  arcade, 
triforium  and  clerestory  pushed  laterally  to  the:  extreme  limits  of  the 
building.  The  original  plans  of  Heins  and  La  Farge  contemplated  a 
single  tower  surmounting  the  central  dome.  The  second  important 
change  is  embodied  in  an  alternative  scheme,  submitted  by  Mr.  Cram 
and  calling  for  a  low  crossing  tower,  flanked  by  two  very  lofty  tran* 
septal  towers.     The  question  is  not  yet  decided  and  the  nave  has  beei^ 


258  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

so  designed  that  it  will  be  possible  later  to  carry  out  the  crossing 
treatment  in  either  of  the  two  suggested  ways,  or  -  perhaps  in  some 
third  way  yet  undetermined. 

The  cost  of  th'e  building  is  expected  to  be  about  four  millions. 

The  dimensions  of  the  Cathedral  as  originally  designed  are  as 
follows:  Length,  £.  and  W.,  520  ft.;  Length  of  Transept,  288  ft.; 
Height  of  Western  Towers,  245  ft.;  Height  of  Central  Tower,  425 
ft.;  Length'  of  Choir,  120  ft.;  Height  of  Choir,  118  ft.;  Height  of 
Dome,  252  ft. ;  Area  of  Cathedral,  99,500  sq. ,  ft.  The  new  plans, 
however,  will  involve  some  changes  in  these  figures.  The  length,  for 
instance,  of  the  finished  structure  will  probably  be  over  600  ft. 

The  general  architectural  design  of  that  portion  of  the 
Cathedral  already  erected  is  Romanesque,  with  a  Byzantine 
influence.  The  material  is  in  part  a  cream-colored  granite, 
from  Lake  Mohegan,  N.  Y.  The  interior  facing  is  Frontenac 
stone,  from  Pepin  Co.,  Wisconsin.  The  Choir  was  com- 
pleted by  Mr.  La  Farge,  after  the  death  of  his  partner,  Mr. 
Heins,  in  1907. 

The  Choir,  which  is  now  available  for  services,  is  less  than 
half  the  ultimate  structure  in  lenjg^h  and  breadth.  The  dome,  later 
to  be  covered,  according  to  the  original  plans,  with  a  tower,  was  laid 
without  inside  suppiort.  At  all  times  during  the  advance  of  the  roofing- 
in  the  dome  was  self-supporting  and  bore  the  weight  of  the  workmen. 
This  was  considered  an  extraordinary  architectural  feat.  This  laying 
of  the  tiling  of  the  dome  was  begun  May  i,  1909,  and  completed  August 
.16.  The  ceiling  will  later  be  concealed  with  mosaic.  The  material  of 
the  dome  is  burnt  clay  slabs,  is  in.  long  by  6  in.  wide  and  i  in.  thick. 
There  are  six  courses  at  the  base,  decreasing  to  three  at  the  crown. 
The  method  is  an  invention  of  Guastavino,  a  Spanish  architect  who 
came  to  America  about  1885.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  masonry  domes 
in  the  world,  having  a  diameter  of  105  ft.,  and  a  height  of  180  ft. 
from  floor  level  to  crown.  The  following  are  the  diameters  of  the 
largest  domes  in  European  churches:  the  Pantheon,  ^Rome,  142  ft.; 
St.  Peter's,  Rome,  and  the  Duomo,  Florence,  139  *ft. ;  St.  Soph  a, 
Constantinople,   115   ft.;    St.   Paul's,   London,    112   ft. 

A  striking  feature  of  the  choir  is  the  eight  Maine  granite 

pillars,  set  in  a  semicircle  about  the  altar.     Each  pillar  is 

composed  of  only  two  pieces,  the  joining  being  two-thirds 

of  the  way  up.    They  are  54.6  ft.  high  and  8  ft.  in  diameter 

where  they  rest  on  the  base.    Each  weighs  120  tons.    Three 

30-horse-power  engines  were  set  up  inside  the  building  in 

front  of  where  the  altar  now  stands  to  raise  the  columns. 

Several   weeks   were   consumed   in   making  the   calculations 

for  raising  each,  although  the  actual  placing  was  done  in 

about  fifteen  minutes. 

All  the  pillars  are  memorials,  and  on  the  base  of  each,  on  the 
ambulatory  side,  are  recorded  the  names  with  accompanying  dates.  It 
is  said  that  no  structure  in  the  world,  with  the  exception  of  St.  Isaac's 
in  Petrograd,  has  columns  approaching  them  in  size. 

The  Altar  is  of  Vermont  marble.  The  reredos,  sur- 
mounted by  a  cross,  is  of  Pierre  de  Lens,  resting  on  a  base 
of  yellow   Numidian   marble.     In   the   center   is   a   majestic 


ST.  JOHN  THE  DIVINE  259 

figure  of  Christ,  by  Leo  Lentelli  (7  ft.  high).  The  other 
figures  represent  Apostles  and  Prophets :  on  the  S.  or  Epistle 
side,  the  large  figure  represents  Moses,  the  smaller  figures 
Isaiah,  Jeremiah  and  Ezekiel;  on  the  N.  or  Gospel  side,  the 
large  figure  represents  St.  John  the  Baptist ;  the  three  smaller 
figures  are  the  Apostles  Peter,  James  and  John.  These 
figures  were  made  by  Otto  Jahnsen.  The  sixteen  angels 
occupying  various  positions  in  the  reredos,  are  the  work  of 
Leo  Lentelli. 

Near  the  front  of  the  altar,  imbedded  in  the  marble 
floor,  is  a  fourteen-inch  square  red  tile,  from  the  ancient 
Church  of  St.  Jofen  the  Divine,  built  at  Ephesus  by  Justinian 
in  540  A.  D.,  over  the  site  of  St.  John's  grave. 

The  Bishop's  Throne  and  Choir  stalls  are  of  American 
oak,  hand  carved,  and  are  reproductions  of  the  stalls  in  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Domenico,  Taormina,  Sicily. 

On  the  top  of  certain  stalls  are  carved  figures  of  great  musicians: 
South  side  (W.  to  £.) :  i.  King  David;  2.  St.  Cecelia;  3.  Palestrina 
(1524-94);  4.  Henry  Purcell  (1658-95;  organist  of  Westminster  Abbey); 
5.   Haydn   (1732-1809);   6.   Mendelssohn. 

North  side :  7.  Asaph  (King  David's  leading  Chorister) ;  8.  St. 
Gregory  the  Great  (540-604,  introduced  the  Gregorian  chant);  9. 
Thomas  Tallis  (1515-85,  father  of  English  cathedral  music);  10.  Bach 
(1685-1750);  II.  Handel  (1685-1759);  13.  Dimitri  S.  Bortniansky  (1752- 
1825),  he  systematized  Russian  church  music).  The  sculptor  of  these 
statues  was  Antonio  Ifillar. 

The  most  valuable  artistic  possession  of  the  Cathedral, 
aside  from  the  sculptures  and  architectural  adornments,  are 
the  *Barberini  Tapestries,  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Elizabeth  Under- 
bill Coles.  They  formerly  adorned  the  Barberini  Palace  at 
Rome,  and  were  the  product  of  the  manufactory  formed 
by  Cardinal  Barberini  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century. 

One  of  the  tapestries,  representing  Jerusalem  and  its  environs, 
is  not  at  present  aisplayed;  the  remaining  eleven  are  placed  as  fol- 
lows: on  tne  walls  of  the  Crossing:  1.  The  Last  Supper;  2.  Adoration 
of  the  Shepherds;  3.  Flight  into  Egypt;  4.  Delivery  of  the  Keys  to 
St.  Peter.  In  the  ambulatory  (beginning  on  the  left):  5.  The  Baptism; 
6.  The  Annunciation;  ^.  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  8.  (in  the  cen- 
ter above  reredos  and  underneath  E.  window),  The  Crucifixion;  9. 
The  Transfiguration;  10.  The  Resurrection;  11.  The  Agony  in  the 
Garden. 

Opening  upon  the  Ambulatory  Close  about  the  Sanctu- 
ary are  the  seven  *Chapels  of  Tongues,  representing  seven 
different  rites.  All  are  memorials,  one  of  them  dedicated 
to  the  late  Bishop  Potter,  who  was  one  of  the  first  and  most 
ardent  friends  of  the  scheme  of  having  services  conducted 
in  seven  different  languages. 

The  chapels  are  situated  in  the  following  order,  be- 
ginning on  the  north  side: 


26o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

1.  St.  Ansgarius;  Scandinavian  rite,  a  memorial  to  the 
late  William  R.  Huntington,  former  Rector  of  Grace  Church, 
and  Chairman  of  the  Cathedral  Building  Committee.  The 
design  is  14th  century  Gothic  (Henry  Vaughan,  architect). 
Interior  not  yet  completed. 

2.  St.  Boniface;  Holland  chapel;  German  rite.  Erected 
by  Mr.  George  Sullivan  Bowdoin.  This  chapel  is  on  the 
order  of  14th  century  English  Gothic.  The  Altar  and  retable 
are  of  gray  Knoxville  marble.  Stained  glass  windows  are 
in  preparation.  In  the  western  bays,  which  are  without 
windows,  stand  three  statues,  St.  Boniface,  Thomas  a  Kempis 
and  Erasmus  (Henry  Vaughan,  architect). 

3.  St.  Columba;  Scot's  chapel;  British  rite.  Given  by 
Mrs.  Edward  King  in  memory  of  her  daughter  Mary.  The 
interior  walls  are  of  Frontenac  stone  with  a  base  of  polished 
Mohegan  granite,  above  which  is  a  moulding  of  yellow 
Verona  marble.  Just  within  the  entrance  in  niches  in  the 
pillars  are  twenty  statues  of  prominent  churchmen,  repre- 
senting the  successive  stages  of  the  development  of  Christianity 
in  England.     (IJeins  and  La  Farge,  architects). 

North  Side:  i.  St.  Alban  (d.  304);  2.  Augustine  of  Canter- 
bury (d.  604);  3.  Venerable  Bede  lea.  673-735);  4.  King  Alfred 
(871-900);  5.  John  Wycliffe  (ca.  1324-84);  6y  William  of  Wykeham 
(1324-1404);  7.  Richard  Hooker  (1554-1600);  8.  Jeremy . Taylor  (1613- 
67)1  9.  John  Wesley  (1703-91);  10.  Reginald  Heber  (1783-1826). 
South  Side;  11.  St.  Aidan  (d.  651);  12.  Theodore  of  Canterbury;  13. 
St.  Anselm  (1033-1109);  14.  Stephen  Langton  (1150-1228):  15.  Thomas 
Cranmer  (1489-1566);  16.  Matthew  Parker  (1504-75);  17.  (jeorge  Berke- 
ley (1685-1753);  18.  Joseph  Butler  of  Durham  (1.692-1752);  19.  John 
Keble  (1792-1866);  20.  Frederick  Denison  Maurice  (1805-72).  Alf  the 
sculptures  are  b>*  Gutson  Borglum.  The  pictorial  windows  represent 
(from  N.  to  S.) :  i.  St.  John;  2.  The  Baptism  of  Christ;  3.  St.  Paul. 
The  other  windows,  in  the  grisaille,  are  copied  from  the  so-called 
"Five  Sisters,**  the  famous  lancet-windows  in  the  N.  Transept  of 
York  Cathedral,  England.  They  were  made  by  Clayton  and  Belt, 
London. 

4.  St.  Saviour's  Chapel:  Oriental  rite.  This  chapel  was 
given  by  Mr.  August  Belmont,  in  memory  of  his  wife,  Bessie 
Morgan  Belmont.  It  is  of  the  Gothic  order  of  architecture 
and   designed  by  Heins  and  La  Farge. 

The  interior  walls  are  of  Frontenac  stone,  with  a  base  of  red 
Chrystalline  stone;  the  Altar  is  of  Carrara  marble;  the  reredos 
is  of  Siena-  marble.  The  niches  of  the  ambulatory  arch  are  occupied 
by  angels.  Those  to  R.  and  L.  of  the  East  Window  contain  figures 
of  Bishops,  Saints  and  Scholars  of  the  Eastern  Church  iGutson  Borg- 
lum, artist).  The  center  East  Window  represents  The  Transfiguration, 
Moses  and  Elias  respectively  on  R.  and  L. ;  North  Window  (above), 
The  Burning  Bush;  (below)  Moses  Lifting  Up  the  Brazen  Serpent; 
South  Window  (above),  The  Angel  Appearing  to  Elijah;  (below),  Eli- 
jah's  Sacrifices    (made  by   Hardman,   Birmingham,   England). 


ST.  JOHN  THE  DIVINE  261 

5.  St.  Martin  of  Tours;  Huguenot  chapel;  Gallican  rite. 
This  chapel  is  in  memory  of  William  P.  Furniss,  his  wife 
and  their  daughter  Sophia.  It  was  designed  by  Cram  and 
Ferguson,  and  is  on  the  order  of  French  Gothic  of  the  early 
part  of  the  13th  century.  Its  chief  interest  lies  in  its  care- 
fully studied  proportions,  and  its  successful  reproduction  of 
the  essential  qualities  that  distinguished  the  highest  type  of 
Mediaeval  work. 

6.  St.  Ambrose.  Italian  rite.  It  was  the  gift  of  Mrs. 
Sarah  Whiting  Rives,  in  memory  of  her  father,  Augustus 
Whiting,  and  other  members  of  the  family.  The  chapel  is 
Renaissance  in  design  (Carrdre  and  Hastings,  architects). 
The  altar  and  retable  are  of  white  alabaster.  On  r.  of  reredos 
is  the  figure  of  St.  Ambrose:  on  1.  St.  Francis;  in  the  six 
smaller  niches  are  figures  of  St.  Benedict,  St.  Agnes,  Dante, 
Fra  Angelico,  Galileo,  and  Savonarola.  The  marbles  used 
in  the  chapel  are  all  from  Italy.  The  floor  is  of  gray  Siena 
and  red  Verona  marble;  the  walls  of  Rosato,  and  the  steps 
of  Cenere.  In  the  wrought-iron  screen  at  the  entrance  are 
seven  groups,  representing  seven  scenes  from  the  life  of 
St.  Ambrose.     Services  are  held  in  Italian. 

7.  St.  James  (the  Great).  Spanish  chapel;  Mozarabic 
rite.  Given  by  Mrs.  Elizabeth  S.  Potter  in  memory  of  her 
husband,  Henry  Codman  Potter.  The  design  is  14th  century 
Gothic  (Henry  Vaughan  architect).  The  altar  is  of  gray 
Knoxville  marble.  On  the  front  is  carved  a  bas-relief  of 
Da  Vinci's  Last  Supper.  In  the  center  of  the  reredos  is  a 
high-relief  of  The  Transfiguration;  beneath  this  is  a  repre- 
sentation of  The  Nativity.  The  windows  from  N.  to  S.  repre- 
sent St.  Lawrence,  St.  James,  St.  Vincent  (Kempe  and  Co., 
London,  makers).  In  the  blank  panels  formed  by  the  mullions 
are  statues  of  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul. 

The  chapel  also  contains  the  following  statues:  West  Wall, 
center  niche,  Christ  with  St.  James  the  Great  and  St.  James  the  Less; 
East  Wall,  St.  Augustine  of  England  and  St.  Gregory  the  Great; 
North  Wall,  William  of  Wykeham;  West  end  of  Aisle,  Venerable  Bede. 

Three  of  the  seven  chapels,  St.  Saviour,  St.  Columba 
and  St.  Ambrose,  have  been  consecrated.  Of  the  remaining 
four,  all  but  St.  Ansgarius  are  practically  ready  for 
consecration. 

Bishop  Henry  Codman  Potter  (1834-1908),  was  consecrated  in  1883 
at  Grace  Church  (p.  155),  of  which  he  had  been  Rector  for  fifteen 
years.  On  Oct.  30,  1908,  the  2Sth  anniversary  of  his  consecration, 
his  funeral  waa  held  in  Grace'  Church  and  his  body  deposited  in  a 
vault  under  the  Sanctuary  of  the  Cathedral. 


262  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

His  monument,  the  first  to  be  erected  in  the  Cathedral,  consists 
of  a  sarcophagus  oi  Siena  marlble.  Resting  upon  it  is  a  recumbent  por- 
trait figure  of  Bishop  Potter,  done  in  Serevezza  marble  JiJames  E. 
Fraser,  artist). 

The  Crypt  has  been  closed  to  visitors  since  191 1,  when 
the  Choir  was  completed  and  opened  for  services.  It  is 
popularly  supposed  to  have  been  hewn  out  of  solid  rock, 
including  the  supporting  pillars,  and  this  statement  has 
found  its  way  into  several  guide-books.  In  point  of  fact, 
as  any  visitor  might  have  seen  for  himself,  the  pillars  and 
the  rest  of  the  visible  stone  work  are  of  Maine  granite,  differ- 
ing radically  from  any  stone  to  be  found  on  Manhattan 
Island  (p.  XVII).  The  famous  *Tiffany  C/ia/>^/ (exhibited  at 
the  World's  Fair),  made  of  mosaic  glass,  the  altar  being  com- 
posed of  150,000  separate  pieces,  is  here,  although  not  in  its 
complete  and  original  form,  the  limitations  of  space  neces- 
sitating the  omission  of  some  important  features,  including 
three  out  of  the  five  elaborate  stained-glass  windows.  The 
present  intention  is  to  enlarge  the  crypt,  so  that  the  Tiffany 
Chapel  may  be  readjusted  and  extended  to  its  original 
dimensions. 

^  The  architectural  scheme  of  the  Cathedral  includes  an  extensive 
series  of  external  ^  sculptures.  Those  that  have  been  already  com- 
pleted and  placed  in  position  are  as  follows:  a  bronze  statue  of  St. 
Gabriel,  surmounting;  the  choir;  he  faces  east  and  is  blowing  a  trum- 
pet ^  iGutzon  Borglum,  artist) ;  ten  statues  on  the  exterior  walls  of  the 
choir,  heroic  sizes  as  follows:  i.  St.  Simon,  with  saw;  2.  St. 
Jude,  with  spear;  3.  St.  Matthew,  with  bag:  4.  St.  Andrew,  with  cross; 
5.  St.  Peter,  with  key;  6.  St.  James  the  Great,  with  shepherd's  crook; 
7.  St.  Thomas,  with  square;  8.  St.  Bartholomew;  9.  St.  Philip,  with 
cross;   10.  St.  James  the  Less  (all  modeled  by  Gutzon  Borglum). 

The  exterior  statues  on  the  chapels,  so  far  as  they  are  in  place,  in- 
clude the  following:  St.  Saviour's  Chapel,i  (at  apex  of  gable)  the 
Child  Christ;  (on  either  side  of  the  great  window)  The  Angels  of 
the  Resurrection;  (below  the  window)  Tne  Virgin,  between  St.  Simeon 
and  St.  Zacharias.  {Gutzon  Borglum,  artist).  St.  Columba's  Chapel: 
The  four  Patron  Saints  of  the  British  Isles;  St.  George,  of  England; 
St.  Andrew,  of  Scotland;  St.  Patrick,  of  Ireland;  St.  David,  of  Wales 
iGutzon  Borglum,  artist).  St.  Boniface's  Chapel:  Charlemagne,  Al- 
cuin,  Gutenberg  and  Luther. 

Immediately  S.  of  the  Crossing  of  the  Cathedral  stands 
the  Old  Synod  House,  formerly  the  Leake  and  Watts  Asy- 
lum Building.  Here,  in  a  room  fitted  up  as  a  chapel,  religious 
services  were  inaugurated  January  ist,  1892. 

At  the  corner  of  Amsterdam  Ave.  and  iioth  St.  is  the 
Nezv  Synod  House,  erected  in  1912,  from  plans  by  Cram^ 
Goodhue  and  Ferguson.  It  is  used  not  only  as  administration 
headquarters  and  meeting  place  for  the  Diocesan  Conven- 
tion and  other  ecclesiastical  assemblies,  but  also  as  a  peo- 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  263 

pie's  forum,  where  men  may  meet  and  hold  discussions,  ir- 
respective of  creed. 

This  building,  constructed  of  a  warm-colored  West  Virginia  stone, 
is  architecturally  noteworthy,  being  modeled  upon  the  work  of  the 
best  period  of  French  Gothic  (13th  century).  Note  especially  the 
sculptures  of  the  west  door  (by  John  Evans  and  Company ,  Boston). 
In  the  tympanum  is  shown  Christ  sending  His  Disciples  into  all  the 
World  to  preach  the  Gospel.  In  the  triple  molding  of  the  arch  are 
three  series  of  sculptured  figures  (reduced  scale)  representing  human- 
ity in  the  various  walks  of  life:  in  the  outer  molding,  kings  and  poten- 
tates, civil  and  religious;  in  the  second,  the  learned  professions,  doc- 
tors, lawyers,  astronomers,  etc.;  in  the  third,  the  crafts  and  trades. 

The  building  contains  a  number  of  paintings,  including  portraits  of 
the  deceased  Bishops  of  New  York;  also  •  a  marble  bust  of  Bishop 
H.  C.  Potter,  by  Leopold  Bracony. 

The  Bishop's  House  and  the  Deanery  (also  by  Cranir 
Goodhue  and  Ferguson)  occupy  respectively  the  south  and 
southeast  sides  of  the  Cathedral  close.  They  are  French 
Gothic,  of  a  later  period  than  Synod  House,  and  with  high 
roofs  of  the  chateau  type. 

At  Morningside  Ave.  and  iioth  St.  is  the  Choir  School, 
erected  in  1913,  from  plans  by  Cook  and  Welch.  The  style 
adopted  is  English  Collegiate  Gothic,  but  without  excessive 
formality.  Note  the  intentionally  unsymmetrical  design  of 
the  two  gables. 

Boys  with  fine  voices  are  received  here  from  all  over  the  country. 
They  live  here  and  receive  both  mn'^ical  and  academic  education.  The 
choir  numbers  about  65.  Betw.  these  two  corner  buildings  are  the 
Bishop's  Residence  and  the   Training  School  for  Deaconesses. 

North  of  Synod  House  is  the  Open-Air  Pulpit,  presented 
in  memory  of  Caroline  Phelps  Stokes,  by  her  sister,  Miss 
Olivia  Phelps  Stokes.  .The  idea  was  suggested  by  the  sight 
of  the  similar  open-air  pulpit  attached  to  the  Cathedral 
Church  of  Perugia,  Italy. 

It  is  a  Gothic  structure,  of  Daytona  stone,  covered  with  a  groined 
vaulting  and  surmounted  by  an  open  spire  forty  ft.  in  height  {How- 
ells  ana  Stokes,  architects). 

VII.     Columbia  University 

♦♦Columbia  University  extends  from  114th  to  120th  sts. 
and  from  Broadway  to  Amsterdam  ave.  The  university 
grounds  also  include  the  land  to  the  west  from  Ii6th  to  120th, 
betw,  Broadway  and  Claremont  ave.,  upon  which  Barnard  Col- 
lege is  situated;  to  the  north  the  blocks  from  120th  to  121st, 
betw.  Broadway  and  Amsterdam  ave.  upon  which  Teachers 
College  and  the  Horace  Mann  School  is  situated;  to  the  east 
the  block  bounded  by  ii6th  and  117th  sts.,  Amsterdam  ave., 
and    Morningside    ave^    upon    which   the    president's    house, 


264  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  Crocker  Cancer  Research  Laboratory  and  the  University 
greenhouse  are  situated.  "An  Official  Guide  to  Columbia 
University,"  (25c.)  is  for  sale  at  the  university  bookstore  in 
the  basement  of  the  Hall  of  Journalism,  S.  E.  cor.  Broadway 
and  ii6th  st.  A  model  of  all  the  university  buildings  (20  ft. 
X  35  ft),  including  those  planned  as  well  as  those  erected, 
(gift  of  F.  Augustus  Schermerhorn,  Qass  of  1868)  is  in  the 
basement  of  Kent  Hall,  S.  W.  corner  ii6th  st.  and  Amsterdam 
ave.  Take  elevator  on  left  of  vestibule.  For  permission  to 
ascend  to  the  dome  of  the  library  apply  td  the  Superintendent, 
Room  no,  S.  E.  corner  of  basement  of  the  library,  betw.  10 
and  4,  except  Sundays'  and  holidays.  Apply  to  him  also  for 
permission  to  see  the  trustees'  room  in  the  library.  Chapel  is 
open  to  visitors  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Services  are  held  daily 
except  Saturday:  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Fri.,  at  12  m.  Wednes., 
5.10  p.  m. ;  Sun.  4  p.  m.,  with  sermon.  Organ  recitals  are 
frequently  held  in  the  afternoon. 

(The  university  may  be  reached  by  Broadway  subway  to  11 6th  at.; 
by  Fifth  ave.  motor  busses,  up  Riverside  Drive  to  11 6th  St.;  by  surface 

cars  on  Broadway  or  Amsterdam  ave.  to   11 6th  st.) 

Columbia  University  was  founded  by  royal  charter  from 
George  II.  in  1754,  under  the  name  of  King's  College.  The 
name  was  changed  to  Columbia  College  in  1784;  to  Columbia 
University  in  1892.  The  first  president  was  Rev.  Dr.  Samuel 
Johnson.  The  first  class,  numbering  seven,  graduated  in  1758. 
Classes  were  held  in  the  school  house  of  Trinity  Church. 
The  first  building  at  Park  Place  and  Church  st.,  on  what  was 
then  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  was  entered  in  1760.  The  first 
move  was  northward  to  the  block  bounded  by  Madison  ave.. 
Park  ave.,  49th  and  50th  st.,  in  1857,  the  number  of  students 
being  then  154.  The  change  to  the  present  site  occurred  in 
1897.  The  various  schools  were  founded  as  follows:  Law 
School,  1858;  School  of  Mines,  1863;  School  of  Architecture, 
1881 ;  School  of  Political  Science,  1880;  School  of  Philosophy, 
1890;  School  of  Pure  Science,  1892;  School  of  Journalism, 
1912;  School  of  Business,  1916;  the  original  college  for 
men  is  now  called  Columbia  College  and  a  corresponding 
college  for  women  was  established  under  the  name  of  Barnard 
College,  in  1889;  women  are  admitted  to  the  graduate  work  on 
an  equal  footing  with  men;  Teachers  College  was  established 
in  1889;  the  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  incorporated 
in  1807  was  consolidated  with  the  university  of  1891 ;  the  uni- 
versity has  a  system  of  exchange  professors  with  German, 
French  and  other  foreign  universities;  extension  lecture 
courses  are  given  and  alliances  exist  with  Union  and  with  the 
General  Theological  Seminaries  in  New  York  City,  the  Drew 


n   r 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  265 

Theological  Seminary  in  New  Brunswick,  N.  J.,  The  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of 
Art,  the  Botanical  Garden  and  the  Zoological  Garden. 

The  main  group  of  buildings  cluster  about  the  ♦♦Library 
on  the  N.  side  of  ii6th  st.  midway  between  Broadway  and 
Amsterdam  ave.  (The  firm  of  McKim,  Mead  and  White 
erected  the  buildings,  except  where  otherwise  stated.)  The 
Library  is  set  back  from  the  street  beyond  the  South  Court 
(330  ft.  X  123  ft.).  The  court  is  enclosed  on  three  sides  by 
walls  and  steps  of  granite  and  paved  with  brick  and  Istrian 
marble,  broken  by  squares  of  turf  and  shrubbery.  On  either 
side  are  beautiful  fountains  of  pink  Stony  Creek  granite, 
gift  of  an  anonymous  donor. 

^  Directly  in  the  center  of  the  pavement  is  an  inlaid  bronze  in- 
scription to  the  chief  architect  which  reads:  Charles  Follen  McKim 
MDCCCXLVII'MDCCCCIX.  De  suffer  artificis  spectant  monumenta  p«i 
annos.  (The  monuments  of  an  arttst  look  down  upon  us  from  round 
about  throughout  the  ages.)  The  library  is  approached  by  wide  low 
steps  curving  upward  in  the  center  after  tne  Greek  fashion.  In  the  cen- 
ter of  the  upper  steps  is  a  gilt  bronze  statue  of  Alma  Mater  by  Daniel 
C.  French,  the  gift  of  the  widow  of  the  late  Robert  Goelet  (Class  of 
i860).  To  the  J£.  and  W.  of  the  upper  terrace  are  two  eighty-foot 
flagstaff s,  set  in  ornate  bronze  vases.  The  western  -  staff,  capped  by  a 
gilded  eagle  and  bearing  the  national  colors,  was  presented  by  the 
Lafayette  Post  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic.  The  eastern  staff 
capped  with  a  gilded  crown,  the  symbol  of  King's  College,  and  beadng 
the  University  flag,  a  white  crown  on  a  blue  field,  was  presented  by 
the  Class  of  1881  as  its  twenty-fifth  anniversary  gift. 

The  view  of  the  university  buildings  from  ii6th  st,  the 
stately  library  rising  above  the  broad  entrance  court  with  its 
alternating  paving  and  turf,  set  off  by  the  terraces,  the  foun- 
tains, the  huge  flags,  and  tall  green  poplar  trees,  with  a  back* 
ground  of  the  surounding  halls,  is  dignified  and  impressive. 

The  *  Library  (open  week  days,  not  holidays,  in  summer  8.30 
a.  m. — 10  p.  m.,  winter,  till  11  p.  m. ;  erected  1895-7)  was  the 
gift  of  Seth  Low,  Class  of  1870.  It  is  built  of  Indiana  lime- 
stone, in  octagonal  form  with  four  short  wings.  It  has  a  base- 
ment, two  stories  and  an  attic,  surmounted  by  a  dome. 

It  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps  on  either  side  of  which  stand 
two  bronze  torcheres,  the  gift  of  Samuel  Sloan,  in  memory  of  William 
Simpson  Sloan  (Class  of  1882).  The  front  facade  is  a  two-story  colon- 
nade of  fluted  Ionic  columns,  35.  ft.  high,  on  marble  bases.  Above  the 
columns  is  the  inscription:  17^4  The  Library  of  Columbia  University 
1897.  Kings  College.  Founded  in  the  province  of  New  York  by  Royal 
Charter  in  the  reign  of  George  II  perpetuated  as  Columbia  College  by 
the  People  of  the  State  of  New  York  when  they  became  free  and 
independent,  maintained  ana  cherished  from  generation  to  generation  *or 
the  advancement  of  the  public  good  and  the  glory  of  Almighty  God 
MDCCCXCVI.  The  Basement  is  entered  by  doors  in  the  four  corners, 
the  S.  £.  one  being  always  unlocked.  In  the  basement  are:  cloak  rooms 
for  men  and  women,  office  of  superintendent  of  bv.ildings  and  grounds 
(near    S.    E.    entrance),    a    sub-postoffice,    and    telephone    booths. 


266  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  first  floor  is  reached  by  four  flights  of  stairs  from  the  basc> 
ment  entrances,  or  by  the  front  main  entrance  fiom  the  South  Court. 
The  main  entrance  hall  is  two  stories  high,  30  ft.  x  33  ft.  In  the  pavement 
is  the  following  inscription:  This  building  is  a  meinorial  of  Ahxel  Abbot 
Low,  a  citizen  of  Brooklyn  and  a  merchant  of  New  i^ork:  born  in  Salem, 
Mass.,  February  VII,  MDCCCXI :  died  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  January 
VII-,  MDCCCXCIIL  The  white  marble  bust  of  Pallas  Athene,  a  copy 
of  the  head  of  the  "Minerve  du  Collier"  in  the  Louvre  Museum  was 
the  gift  of  J.  Ackerman  Coles,  M.D.,  LL.D.  (Class  of  1864).  About 
its  base  in  the  pavement,  are  set  the  twelve  signs  of  the  zodiac  in 
bronze.  On  the  east  side  of  the  doorway  is  a  bronze  copy  of  Otricoli 
Zeus;  on  the  west  side,  the  head  of  a  bearded  Dionysus;  gifts  of  Dr. 
Coles.  The  two  columns  are  green  marble  from  Connemara,  Ire.  On 
the  W.  side  is  the  Secretary's  Office  containing  the  following  portraits: 
E.  wall,  Abiel  Abbot  Low,  by  H,  S.  Todd;  Hamilton  Fish  (class  of  1827), 
Secretary  of  State  under  Grant  and  34  years  chairman  of  the  Trustees 
of  the  University,  by  Daniel  Hunttngton;  N.  wall.  Due  de  Loubat, 
benefactor  of  the  library,  by  Madraso;  S.  wall.  Rev.  John  M.  Mason, 
S.T.D.  (Class  of  1789)  Provost  of  Columbia  College,  1811-16. 

On  the  E.  side  is  the  Trustees'  Room  wainscoated  in  Irish  bog  oak. 
The  President's  chair  bears  the  inscription:  "The  Library  chair  of  Dr. 
Benjamin  Franklin  bequeathed  to  Dr.  David  Hosack  by  the  late  Mrs. 
Catherine  Bache  Grand  Daughter  of  Dr,  Franklin  and  presented  by  Dr. 
Hosack  to  the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Society  of  New  York.  January, 
1S22. — Jacob  Dyckman  Rec,  Sec."  In  the  Cornerstone  fireplace  is  set 
the  corner-stone  of  the  first  building  erected  in  1756  for  King's  College, 
bearing  the  inscription:  Hujus  CoJlegii,  Regalis  dicti,  Regio  diplomate 
constituti  in  honorem  dei  O.  M.  ATQ:  %n  ecclesiae  reiq:  publicae  emolu- 
mentum,  primum  hunc  lapidem  posuit  vir  praecellentissimus,  Carolus 
Hardy,  Eques  Auratus,  Hujus  Provinciae  Praefectus  Dignissimus  Augti, 
die  23*  An.  Dom.  MDCCLVI.  {The  first  stone  of  this  College  called 
King's,  established  by  royal  charter  to  the  honor  of  Almighty  God  and 
for  the  advancement  of  Church  and  State,  was  laid  by  the  Most  Excel- 
lent Charles  Hardy,  Knight,  the  very  worthy  Governor  of  this  Province, 
August  23,  Anno  Domini  1756.)  The  room  contains  the  following  por- 
traits: over  the  fireplace,  Samuel  Johnson,  S.T.D. ,  first  President  of  Co- 
lumbia College,  1754-63,  probably  by  L.  Kilburn;  N.  wall  (center)  Myles 
Cooper,  LL.D.,  second  president  of  King's  College,  1763-75,  by  Copley; 
(left),  William  Samuel  Johnson,  LL.D.,  president,  1 787-1 800,  copy  by 
Waldo  after  Gilbert  Stuart:  S.  wall  (left),  Benjamin  Moore,  S.T.D., 
president,  1801-xi;  E.  wall  (right),  William  Harris,  S.  T.  D.,  president, 
1811-29;  (left)  William  A.  Duer.  LL.D.,  president,  1829-42,  by  Inman; 
W.  wall.  Nathaniel  F.  Moore,  LL.D.,  president,  1842-49.  In  the  center 
of  the  N.  wall  is  a  photograph  of  the  Royal  Charter  granted  to  the 
"Governors  of  the  College  of  the  Province  of  New  York  in  the  City  of 
New  York  in  America,"  in  the  reign  of  George  II  (1754)  for  the  found- 
ing of  "King's  College." 

The  S.  corridor  contains  two  busts  of  Washington,  probably  works  of 
Crawford  and  of  Greenough,  gifts  of  General  J.  Watts  de  Peyster.  The 
S.  W.  corner  lobby  contains  a  drinking  fountain,  gift  of  the  late  Edward 
A.  Darling.  From  the  W.  corridor  one  enters  the  catalogue  room  on 
the  R.  of  which  are  two  busts,  Macchiavelli  and  Cxsar.  On  the  left 
is  the  Librarian's  Room,  containing  a  carved  Chinese  screen  presented 
by  Ching  Yun  Sen  and  his  fellow  students  in  1904  and  portraits  of 
Creorge  Ojrilvie  (Class  of  1774)  and  of  Charles  H.  Wharton,  LL.D. 
president  in   1801. 

From  the  S.  corridor  one  enters  the  General  Reading 
Room,  an  octagon,  73  ft.  across  covered  by  a  dome  70  ft.  in 
diameter,  105  H  ft.  high,  resting  on  pendentives,  springing 
from  four  stone  piers.    Between  the  piers  are  4  green  granite 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  267 

columns  on  each  side,  29  ft.  high,  from  Ascutney,  Vt.,  capped 
by  Ionic  capitals  of  gilt  bronze.  16  statues  are  to  surmount 
the  columns. 

Those  in  place  are:  N.  side  beginnine;  at  the  left,  Euripides, 
a  copy  of  the  Giu^inian  Euripides  in  the  Vatican,  the  gift  of 
Charles  F.  McKim;  a  copy  of  the  Vatican  Demosthenes,-  the  g^ft 
of  W.  Bayard  Cutting  (Class  of  1869);  Sophocles,  a  copy  of  the  statue 
in  the  Lateran  Museum,  the  gift  oi  Dr.  George  G.  Wheelock  (Class  of 
1864);  Augustus  Caesar,  a  copy  of  the  Louvre  statue,  the  gift  of  F. 
Augustus  Schermerhorn  (Class  of  1868).  *The  busts  upon  the  bookcases 
in  the  four  comers  of  the  room  are:  N.  W.,  Frederic  de  Peyster  (Class 
of  1 81 6);  N.  £.,  Tohn  Watts  (1749-1836),  founder  of  the  Leake  and 
Watts  On>han  Asylum;  both  bv  G.  E.  Sisselh  sculptor,  the  gift  of  Gen- 
eral J.  Watts  de  Peyster  in  1889.  S.  E.,  Socrates;  S.  W.,  Hermes,  copy 
of  the  Hermes  of  Praxiteles  at  Olympia;  on  the  central  case,  east  side, 
bust  of  Beethoven.  The  last  two  gifts  of  Dr.  Coles.  The  clock  in  the 
center  is  the  gift  of  the  Class  of  1874.  The  room  seats  152  readers, 
5,000  reference  volumes  arc  ranged  on  the  shelves.  The  library  contains 
in  all  about  500,000  ^  volumes,  beside  pamphlets,  manuscripts,  and 
30,000  German  university  dissertations. 

From  the  N.  corridor  one  enters  the  periodical  room 
61  ft.  X  37  ft.,  two  stories  high,  containing  5000  bound 
volumes   of   periodicals  and  600  current  periodicals. 

The  bronze  bust  of  Homer  in  the  E.  corridor  is  the  gift  of  Dr.  Coles. 
The  vase,  four  feet  seven  inches,  with  figures  in  relief,  the  gift  of  J. 
Aburatani  and  a  number  of  Japanese  stuoents  in  1904.  From  this  cor> 
ridor  one  enters  the  Exhibition  Room,  39  ft.  x  54  ft.  A  room  to  the 
south    contains    engravings,    manuscripts    and    maps. 

The  secbnd  floor,  reached  by  four  staircases,  is  devoted 
on  the  E.  side  to  the  social  sciences,  the  W.  side  to  modern 
languages;  the  S.  side  is  occupied  by  the  upper  part  of 
entrance  hall.  Room  307  on  this  floor  (N.  E.  stairway) 
contains  a  collection  of  Columbiana,  The  Third  floor  is  de- 
voted to  history,  philosophy,  offices  and  workrooms. 

S.  E.  of  the  Library  is  the  Temporary  East  Hall  con- 
taining the  offices  of  the  Provost  of  the  University;  the 
Alumni  Federation  and  the  Columbia  University  Press.  S.  E. 
of  the  Library,  on  the  corner  of  n6th  street  and  Amsterdam 
ave.,  stands  Kent  Hall  (erected  191  o,  with  funds  largely 
provided  by  the  bequest  of  Charles  Bathgate  Beck,  Qass  of 
1877,  College,  and  1879,  Law).  The  general  design  of  all  the 
Halls  is  the  same — overburned  brick  and  limestone,  set  upon 
a  granite  base.  Kent  Hall  is  inhabited  by  the  Schools  of 
Law  and  of  Political  Science. 

The  entrance  is  on  the  north  side.  On  the  first  floor  is  the  Law 
Library  and  Reading  Room,  extending  the  length  of  the  building. 
On  the  walls  are  portraits  of  Prof.  Dwight,  Prof.  Burgess,  President 
Butler,  and  Chas.  M.  Da  Costa,  trustee  1866-1890.  The  recently 
installed  Memorial  Window  (1914),  designed  by  Frederick  S.  Lamb, 
contains  a  female  figure  symbolizing  The  Majesty  of  the  Law.     In  the 


268  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

small  surrounding  panels  are  the  arms  or  seals  of  the  original  13  states; 
also  the  names  of  four  great  jurists:  Kent,  Jay,  Marshall  and 
Livingston.  The  study  tables  accommodate  336  students.  The  law- 
school  library  contains  about  50,000  volumes. 

To  the  N.  of  Kent  Hall  is  the  Hall  of  Philosophy 
(erected  191  o,  gift  of  an  anonymous  donor).  On  the  first 
noor  is  a  large  room  for  women  graduate  students,  the  Car- 
ptnter  Library,  in  memory  of  George  Rice  Carpenter,  pro- 
fessor of  rhetoric  and  English  1893- 1909. 

In  this  room  is  the  mantelpiece  from  the  room  in  Brennah  House, 
formerly  at  84th  Street  near  the  Hudson  River,  in  which  Poe  wrote 
"The  Raven."     (See  p.  240.) 

On  the  third  floor  is  the  Brander  Matthews  Dramatic 
Museum. 

This  contains  a  theatrical  library  and  a  collection  of  views  of  thea- 
tres, masques,  carrousels,  outdoor  performances  and  portraits  of  dis- 
tinguished actors.  It  has  also  models  of  five  of  the  theaters  typical  of 
the  more  important  epochs  in  the  development  of  the  drama,  i.  The 
stage  of  the  Mystery  acted  at  Valenciennes  in  1547  (the  gift  of  Brander 
Matthews,  Class  of  1 871).  2,  An  open  place  in  an  English  village  with 
the  pageant-wagon  representing  Noah's  Ark.  (The  gift  of  Mr.  Winthrop 
Ames.;  3.  The  court-yard  of  an  English  inn  with  the  platform  on 
which  strolling  olayers  are  performing  ^'The  Nice  Wanton. '"^  (The  gift 
of  Messrs.  H.  C.  Chatfield-Taylor  and  Otto  H.  Kahn.)  4.  The  Fortune 
Theatre,  erected  in  London  in  1600  (on  the  plan  of  Shakespeare's  Globe). 
(The  gift  of  Mr.  Clarence  H.  Mackav.)  5.  The  Palais  Koyal,  erected 
in  Paris  in  1639  t)y  Cardinal  Richelieu  (and  occupied  after  1661  by 
Moli^re  and  his  company).     (The  gift  of  Mr.   E.  Hamilton  Bell.) 

On  the  fourth  floor  is  the  Classical  Museum  containing 
a  collection  left  by  the  late  Prof.  Olcott  illustrating  ancient 
Roman  life,  coins,  and  inscriptions. 

In  front  of  the  Hall  of  Philosophy  stands  an  ancient 
Well-head,  from  the  Palace  of  Ambassadors  in  Venice, 
gift  of  Qass  of  1887,  on  its  25th  anniversary.  Nearby  is  a 
Marble  Exedra  with  the  inscription:  To  fellowship  and  love 
of  Alma  Mater,  Class  of  1886,  Arts,  Mines,  Political  Science, 
2Sth  anniversary,  1911. 

Next  to  the  Hall  of  Philosophy  is  St.  Paul's  Chapel 
(erected  1904,  gift  of  Olivia  E.  P.  Stokes  and  Caroline  Phelps 
Stokes,    Architects  Howells  and  Stokes.)    (Services  p.  264). 

The  building  is  in  the  shape  of  a  short  Latin  cross  prolonged  at  the 
east  by  a  semicircular  apse  and  at  the  west  by  a  vaulted  portico  of 
four  columns.  The  chapel  is  surmounted  by  a  dome.  Over  the  portico  is 
the  inscription  "Pro  Ecclesia  Dei"  ("For  the  Church  of  God").  The 
capitals  of  the  columns  are  adorned  with  cherubs'  heads  by  Gutson 
Borglum.  Above  the  doorway  is  the  University  motto,  In  lumine  tuo 
videbimus  lumen  ("In  thy  light  we  shall  find  light").  At  the  ends 
of  the  porch  are  two  bronze  torcheres  (eiven  by  Class  of  1883  on  its  ssth 
anniversary)  by  Arturo  Bianchini.  The  interior  walls  are  of  salmon- 
colored  brick  and  the  vaulting  of  pink-toned  Guastai'ino  tiling.  The 
dome  has  a  diameter  of  48  ft.  and  a  neight  of  91  ft.     It  is  supported  by 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  269 

tivei  on  the  four  irehu  of  the  CTDuing.  The  drum  of  (he  dom* 
1  nllery.  The  pulpir.  n*lls.  Bud  orgm  ftonii  are  of  carved  (ad 
__„  ItaUn  mJiiot,  bj  Copptdt  Bralkiri  in  Florence.  The  pavement 
il  raarhle  terrano,  let  with  a  pattern  of  porphyry*  verd  antique  and  jet- 
la*  marhlc  fran  an  earl*  Roinaa  Chriatlan  church      The  window*  in  the 


Kfcf 


;  Genrd 

- 817  ta 

181JI  Robert 

L  KingaUnd, 
f.  CheeanuD. 


N,  of  the  Chapel  is  the  Aveby  Library  (erected  1911. 
The  gift  of  Samuel  P.  Avery,  in  memory  of  his  son).  (Open 
weekdays,  not  holidays,  g  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. ;  7  p.  m.  to  11  p.  m. 
to  architects  and  students  of  design. 

On  the  ■tound  Soor  <■  tbe  Avttr  Architectural  Librarr,  146  fL  i 
46  ft.  conUininK  19,666  Tolumei  and   no  current  perlodiesl*. 

In  the  Averr  Librarr  ia  a  Memorial  Tablet  to  Henrj  Ogden  Avery, 
deHgned  hjr  J.  C.  Ckaflain. 

The    ceiling    U    decorated    with    »    aerie*    of    portrait    medallion*, 
repreaentini    twelve    famou*    architect):       i.    Sirotiij    a.    Brunelleachii 
"        "  ''        L    Lorenio    the    Ua«nificeaii    ;.    Milaieata;    «.    Urbino; 
licbaelangelo:  9-   Bramanie;   id.  Juliu*  11;   11.   Feruul: 


Behind  the  Avery  Library,  on  Amsterdam  ave.  is  Favek- 
WEATHES  Hall  (erected  i8q6,  from  bequest  of  Daniel  B. 
Fayerweather).  It  is  ocupied  by  the  departments  of  physics 
and  astronomy. 

On  Fayerwealber  Hall  on  the  Amiterdim  ave.  aide  i*  Che  inacrip- 
tion:  Tb  eommnntrali  Ntai  York  CUy  diftntii  dvriita  tk(  Ifor  d/ 
iSij:  BarruT  Gatt,  McGetnn'l  Paa.  Barrirr  Gat;  Uanhattmitvillt, 
Fortr  CCuiton,  Fiik,  and  Haight  and  three  itom  ioanrt.  Alto  tn  honor 
of  Mai.  Gen.  Garrii  Hopper  StriMer  (Mio  captain),  sih  rigimtM,  tn4 
bfitadt.  Brettei  by  U.  S.  D..  iBia,  Empire  Slate  Society,  Febmary 
ttnd,   I  goo. 

Next  to  Fayerweather  on  the  N,  is  Schbrhuhorn  Hall 
(erected  1896.     Gift  of  William  C.  Schermerhorn  Class  of 

1840),  occupied  by  the  departments  of  geology,  mineralogy, 
botany,  soology,  and  psychology.  On  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance hall  stands  a  bronze  bust  of  the  donor. 

On  the  fir*t  floor  it  the  muieum  of  economic  and  phyeical  seoloiy, 
and   the  Egletton  Miumm  of  mineralofy.     The   nuKum*  and   labor*- 

bntei   illndriting   all   the    geoloficsl    faoriiona   of    North   America    and 


27a  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  second  floor,  immediately  above  the  entrance,  contains  the  gen- 
eral laboratory  of  inorganic  geology  and  petrography,  special  labora- 
tories, the  lecture-room  and  the  library  of  the  department.  At  the  £. 
end  are  the  laboratories,  lecture-room,  and  library  of  the  department  of 

Ssychology,  which  also  has  a  number  of  special  research-rooms  on  the 
oor  above.  The  third  floor  is  mainly  occupied  by  the  department  of 
botany,  and  contains  a  large  general  undergraduate  laboratory,  two 
special  graduate  laboratories,  the  departmental  library,  and  other  rooms. 
The  upper  floor  is  devoted  to  the  department  of  zoology,  which  here  has 
its  large  general  undergraduate  laboratory,  two  graduate  laboratories, 
with  rooma  for  special  research,  the  library,  and  other  purposes.  A 
teaching  collection  of  zoological  specimens  and  models  occupies  the 
hallway. 

Next  to  Schermerhorn  in  the  rear  center  is  University 
Hall,  still  incomplete  for  lack  of  funds.  (Begun  1896,  and 
burned  down  to  the  ground  floor  in  1914.)  The  grade  of  the 
ground  changes  here,  so  that  the  building  is  two  stories 
higher  in  the  rear  than  in  front  The  basement  is  utilized 
for  the  Power  Plant  and  the  Gymnasium,  separated  by  a 
driveway  passing  through  the  building.  The  gymnasium  is 
semi-circular  in  form,  168  x  113  ft.,  fitted  with  apparatus,  a 
running  track  and  a  swimming  pool.  Pending  the  construc- 
tion of  a  theatre,  the  gymnasium  is  used  for  commencements. 
The  Power  Plant  is  connected  with  the  university  buildings 
by  a  system  of  eight  foot  subways.  The  upper  story  contains 
the  Commons  and  the  offices  of  the  Dean  of  the  Faculties 
of  Political  Science,  Philosophy  and  Pure  Science,  the  Di- 
rector of  the  Summer  Session  and  Extension  Teaching,  the 
Registrar,  the  Bureau,  the  Director  of  University  Adminis- 
tration, the  Secretary  of  Appointments  and  the  Institute  of 
Arts  and  Sciences. 

Behind  this  group  of  buildings  is  The  Green,  on  a  level 
25  ft.  lower,  a  charming  spot  of  turf  and  trees.  The  small 
Wilde  Astronomical  Observatory  and  Transit  House  is  its 
only  building.  It  is  surrounded  by  an  ornamental  all  iron 
fence  with  granite  posts.  The  N.  gate,  on  120th  St.,  designed 
by  McKim,  Mead  and  White,  was  the  gift  of  the  Qass  of 
1S82.  The  W.  gate,  on  Broadway,  designed  by  Thomas  Nash 
(Class  of  1882),  was  the  gift  of  the  Classes  of  1890-92,  (College 
and  Mines,  and  others,  in  memory  of  Herbert  Mapes  (Class 
of  1890).  The  E.  gate,  on  Amsterdam  ave.,  designed  by 
Arthur  Alexander  Stoughton  (Class  of  1888)  was  the  gift  of 
the  Class  of  i888.  At  the  N.  E.  corner  is  the  Great  God  Pan, 
by  George  Grey  Barnard,  set  upon  a  granite  exedra  with  a 
background  of  evergreens,  the  whole  being  the  gift  of 
Edward  Severing  Clark.  The  exedra  and  fountain  were 
designed  by  McKim,  Mead  and  White. 

To  the  W.  of  University  Hall  is  Havemeyer  Hall 
(erected    1896).     The    gift    of    Frederick    C.    Havemeyer, 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  271 

Theodore  A,  Havemeyer,  Thomas  J.  Havemeyer,  Henry  C. 
Havemeyer,  Kate  B.  Belloni,  Louisa  Jackson,  and  Charles 
H.  Senff,  devoted  to  chemistry. 

Facing  the  entrance  is  a  bronze  bas-relief  of  Frederick  C.  Have- 
meyer (Class  of  1825) y  in  whose  memory  the  building  was  erected. 
On  the  right  is  a  bronze  bust  of  Prof.  Charles  Frederick  Chandler, 
for  40  years  head  of  the  department  of  chemistry,  by  /.  Scott  Hartley, 
presented  by  the  Chemists  of  America.  On  the  left  is  a  tablet  to 
Hamilton  Y.  Castner  (Class  of  1878)  by  C.  F.  Hamann.  On  the 
first  floor  is  the  Chandler  Chemical  Museum,  showing  in  specimen 
forms  the  evolution,  not  only  of  the  science  of  chemistry,  but  of  the 
chemical  and  allied  industries. 

Next  to  Havemeyer  Hall  comes  the  School  of  Engi- 
neering Building  (erected  1896).  On  the  main  floor  is  the 
electrical  engineering  museum,  and  the  museum  of  the  civil 
and  mechanical  engineering  laboratory. 

S.  of  the  Engineering  Building  is  the  School  of  Mines 
Building  (erected  1904.  Gift  of  Adolph  Lewisohn.  Arnold 
W,  Brunner,  architect). 

In  the  vestibule  is  an  inscription  to  the  donor  and  in  the  hall 
a  bronze  bust  of  Thomas  Egleston,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  school, 
by  William  Cooper.  On  the  first  floor  are  the  mining  museum  and 
the  museum  .of  metallurgy  containing  models  of  mines,  mine  plants, 
smelting  furnaces,  metallurgical  appliances,  and  a  collection  of  metal- 
lurgical products.  The  bronze  statue  in  front  of  the  building  Le 
Marteleur  (The  Hammerman)  by  Meunier.  It  is  a  gift  of  the  class 
of   1889,   Mines. 

Between    the    last    two    buildings    stands    Earl    Hall. 

(Erected  1900.    The  gift  of  William  Earl  Dodge,  in  memory 

of  his   son.     Architects,  McKim,  Mead  and   White.)     The 

inscription  over  the  door  reads,  Given  to  the  students  that 

Religion  and  Learning  may  go  Hand  in  Hand  and  Character 

grow  with  Knowledge.    The  Hall  is  under  the  charge  of  the 

Columbia  University  Christian  Association. 

In  the  corridor  is  the  shell  in  which  the  Henley  race  was  won 
in  1878,  and  a  bronze  bust  of  Washington,  gift  of  Dr.  Coles.  On  the 
second  floor  is  the  auditorium.  In  the  lobby  are  portraits  of  William 
Earl  Dodge;  Frederick  A.  P.  Barnard,  President  i864>89,  by  East- 
man Johnson,  and  Seth  Low  (Class  of  2870),  President  1 890-1 901,  by 
Daniel  Huntington. 

The  basement  contains  the  offices  of  the  University  Medical  Officer, 
the  Graduate  Manager  of  Athletics  and  the  Graduate  Manager  of  Stu- 
dent  Organizations.     There   is   a   rear   entrance   from   Broadway. 

The  small  red  brick  building  near  the  corner  of  ii6th 
St  and  Broadway  is  the  Faculty  Club. 

S.  pf  ii6th  St.  lies  a  group  of  buildings  in  the  South 
Field,  which  was  purchased  in  1902.  The  athletic  field, 
running  track,  and  tennis  courts  are  in  the  center  of  the 
plot.    In  the  north  center  stands  the  Sun-Dial  (the  gift  of 


272  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  Class  of  1885),  erected  in  1912.  The  inserts  on  the  base, 
which  were  designed  and  prepared  under  the  direction  of 
William  Ordway  Partridge  (Class  of  1885),  represent  a  cycle 
of  one  day:  Torches  of  the  Morning;  Increase  of  the  Dawn; 
Chanticleer;  Sun  Rise;  Love  Awakening;  Boiling  the  Pot; 
Love  Crowning  the  Hours;  Love  at  Play;  Love  Tempers 
the  Night  Wind;  The  Evening  Star;  Love  Piping  to  the 
Moon;  and  Voices  of  the  Night. 

At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  ii6th  st.  and  Amsterdam  avc. 
is  Hamilton  Haix  (erected  1906,  gift  of  John  Stewart 
Kennedy,  trustee  1903-10),  housing  the  undergraduate  school 
for  men,  Columbia  College. 

The  doorway  is  a  gift  from  the  Class  of  1880.  The  bronze  statue  of 
Alexander  Hamilton,  (student  from  1774  to  1776),  for  whom  the  build- 
ing ii  named,  was  designed  bv  Willtam  Ordway  Partridag  (Class  of 
1885);  and  presented  by  the  Association  of  Alumni  of  (Columbia  (Col- 
lege. Above  the  grills  are  carved  the  seals  of  King's  College,  the  Re- 
gents of  the  University,  and  of  Columbia  College,  also  presented  by  the 
Alumni  Association.  The  cornerstone  bears  the  same  inscription  as  the 
original  one,  now  in  the  Trustees'  Room  (p.  266).  In  the  vestibule  are 
a  bust  of  the  donor,  the  late  John  Stewart  Kennedy,  trustee  1903-10;  a 
bust  of  Dean  Van  Amringe,  by  Mr.  Partridge;  two  replicas  o£ 
classic  heads,  presented  by  Dr.  Coles;  a  copy  of  Apollo  Belvedere  given 
bv  the  class  of  1777;  &  copy  of  a  Greek  statue  given  by  the  class  of  1864. 
The  carved  marble  doorway  and  clock  are  the  sift  of  the  Class  of  1884. 
On  the  second  floor  is  the  Collegb  Study.  The  east  window,  executed 
by  Maitland  Armstrong  &  Co.,  is  the  gift  of  the  Class  of  1882.  The 
room  also  contains  the  following  portraits:  Charles  Anthon  (Class  of 
181 5),  Jay  professor  of  Greek  language  and  literature  1857-67,  by  John 
W,  Ehninger;  William  Cochran,  professor  of  Greek  and  Latin,  1784-89. 
by  John  Trumbull,  presented  by  him;  Lorenzo  Da  Ponte,  professor  01 
Italian  language  and  literature  1826-37,  painter  and  source  unknown; 
Charles  Davies,  professor  of  mathematics  of  1857^5,  b^  Jos.  O.  Eaton; 
Henry  Drisler,  jTay  professor  of  Greek  language  and  literature  1867-94, 
by  Daniel  Huntington;  John  Kemp,  professor  of  mathematics  and  nat* 
ural  history  1 799-1 812,  painter  and  source  unknown;  John  McVickar 
(Class  of  1804)  professor  of  evidence  of  natural  and  revealed  relisfion, 

KJ.  O.  Eaton;  and  John  Howard  Van  Amringe  (Class  of  1860). 
ian  of  Columbia  College  1896-1910,  bv  EastMan  Johnson,  presented 
by  the  Association  of  the  Alumni  of  Columbia  College.  In  Koom  ^01 
are  portraits  of  Robert-  Adrain,  professor  of  mathematics,  natural  his* 
tory,  and  astronomy,  1813-25,  painter  unknown,  presented  by  the  Class 
of  i8a3;  Henry  James  Anderson  (Class  of  1818),  professor  of  mathe> 
matics  and  astronomy  1825-4^,  Trustee  X85X-75,  by  J.  O.  Eaton;  John 
Bowden,  professor  of  moral  philosophv,  1 801- 17,  presented  by  the 
alumni  of  the  College;  Charles  Murray  Nairne,  professor  of  moral  and 
intellectual  philosopny  and  literature  1857-81,  by  Thomas  Le  Clear; 
Henry  Immanuel  Schmidt,  professor  of  German  language  and  literature 
1848-80,  by  Jacob  Lauarus;  and  Peter  Wilson,  professor  of  Greek  and 
Latin  1789-02,  painter  not  known,,  presented  by  the  alumni  in  1822. 
The  remainder  of  the  building  contains  the  departments  of  modem  hn- 
guages,  English,  philosophy,  economics,  and  politics. 

Three  dormitories  have  been  completed,  Hartley,  Livings- 
ton, on  the  £.  side  adjoining  Hamilton,  and  Furnald  on  the 
W.  side. 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  273 

Hartley  Hall  was  erected  1904  by  Mrs.  Helen 'Hartley 

Jenkins    and    Marcellus    Hartley    Dodge,    Class    of    1903,    in 

Memory  of  Marcellus  Hartley. 

The  entrance  leads  directly  into  an  Assembly  Room  60  ft.  tqumrc, 
two  stories  high.  The  decorative  windows,  representing  req>ectively 
Sophocles  and  Virgil,  were  the  graduation  ^fts  of  the  classes  of  1885 
and  1 89 1  and  were  in  the  49th  st.  buildings.  The  painting  r^re- 
senting  The  Round  Table  of  King  Arthur,  was  the  gift  of  the  \Class 
of  'oa  (College).  ,  The  portraits  on  the  walls  are:  Marcellus  Hartley; 
Alexander  Hamilton,  LL.D.,  (Class  of  1777)  Trustee  1 787-1 804,  copied 
by  Mrs,  James  H.  Canfield  from  the  original  by  John  Trumbull  in  the 

Jossession  of  the  Hamilton  family,  presented  by  the  Class  of  18^7; 
ohn  Jay,  LL.D.,  (Class  of  1764),  a  copy  by  Mrs.  James  H,  Canfield 
from  the  original  by  Gilbert  Stuart  and  presented  by  Mrs.  C^niidd 
in  1904;  Gouvemeur  Morris  (Class  of  1768),  Trustee  i8o5-i6i6,  painted 
by    Thomas    Scully,    loaned    by    the    Morris    family. 

Livingston  Hall  (erected  1904  by  the  University  and 
named  for  Chancellor  Robert  R.  Livingston)  is  planned  like 
Hartley. 

The  window  in  the  Assembly  Room,  with  a  medallion  portrait  of  the 
Chancellor,  is  the  gift  of  the  Livingston  family.  The  portraits  are: 
John  D.  Ogilby  (Class  of  1829),  a  copy  by  C.  L.  Elliott  from  the  origi- 
nal by  Copley  in  the  possession  of  Trinity  Church;  Daniel  D.  Tompkins 
(Class  of  1795)  Governor  of  New  York  and  Vice-President  01  the 
United  States;  De  Witt  Clinton  (Class  of  1786^  Governor  of  New  York; 
and  Rev.  Manton  Eastbum  (Class  of  181 7),  lecturer  on  poetry  (1830). 

*      FuRNALD  Hall  (erected  191 3,  gift  of  Francis  P.  Furnald, 

Jr.  and  Sarah  E.   Furnald   in   memory  of  their  son   Royal 

Blackler  Furnald,  class  of  1901),  is  on  the  same  plan,  except 

that  the  basement  is  arranged  for  the  use  of  athletic  teams. 

Dormitory  rooms,  furnished  by  the  University,  range  from  |ioo  to 
$180  for  the  academic  year.    The  Halls  are  self-governing. 

The  School  of  Journalism  is  at  the  S.  E.  corner  of 
ii6th  St.  and  Broadway  (erected  1913,  gift  of  Joseph  PuHtzer, 
who  also  endowed  the  school).  The  bronze  statue  of  Thomas 
Jefferson  by  William  Ordway  Partridge  (Qass  of  1885)  was 
presented  by  the  City  of  New  York  under  the  will  of  the 
donor  of  the  building.  The  entrance  is  from  a  portico 
of  massive  columns.  In  the  basement  is  the  University 
Book  Store.  On  the  upper  floors  library,  reading  rooms, 
lecture  rooms,  and  The  Politics  Laboratory.  The  depart- 
ments of  anthropology  and  music  are  also  housed  in  this 
building. 

The  President's  Residence  is  at  the  N.  W.  corner  Morn- 
ingside  ave.  and  ii6th  st.  The  university  owns  five  houses 
on  117th  St.,  betw.  Morningside  aves.  and  Amsterdam:  413 
occupied  by  the  Chaplain  and  415  occupied  by  the  Dean  of 
the  College;  419  is  the  Deutsches  Haus,  gift  of  Edward  D. 
Adams.   .It  contains  a  bureau  of  academic  information,  Ger- 


274  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

man  library  and  reading-room.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Germanistic  Society  of  America,  and  is  provided  with  a  suite 
of  rooms  for  the  resident  Kaiser-Wilhelm  professor.  411  is 
the  Maison  Frangaise.  It  contains  collections  of  French 
books,  periodicals  and  documents.  It  serves  as  a  home  for 
the  visiting  French  professor  and  as  headquarters  for  inter- 
course with  the  French  universities.  The  fifth  house  (No. 
407)  is  at  present  occupied  by  the  Carnegie  Endowment  for 
the  Advancement  of  Peace,  for  which  President  Butler  is 
acting  as  director,  and  by  the  American  Association  for 
International  Conciliation.  In  the  same  row  are  the  resi- 
dences of  several  University  officers,  and  the  chapter  houses 
of  two  Greek-letter  fraternities. 

Barnard  College  is  the  undergraduate  college  for  women, 
corresponding  to  Columbia  College  for  men.  It  occupies  the 
land  bounded  by  ii6th  st,  120th  st.,  Broadway  and  Claremont 
ave.    Neither  117th  nor  ii8th  sts.  are  cut  through. 

Four  buildings  have  been  erected.  The  dormitory  at 
ii6th  st,  is  Brooks  Hall  (erected  1906,  Chas.  A.  Rich, 
architect;  named  in  honor  of  Rev.  Arthur  Brooks).  The 
entrance  is  on  the  N.  from  the  quadrangle,  under  a  two- 
story  colonnade.  The  first  floor  is  occupied  by  parlor^* 
dining  rooms  and  assembly-room.  Over  the  fireplace  hangs 
an  oil  painting  of  Miss  Emily  L.  Gregory,  professor  of  botany 
from  1889  to  1897,  by  Henry  R.  Rittenberg,  the  gift  of  Dr. 
Henry  Kraemer.  The  floors  above  contain  ninety  sleeping 
rooms  and  an  infirmary. 

Lying  betw.  Brooks  Hall  and  the  other  buildings  is 
MiLBANK  Quadrangle,  gift  of  Mrs.  Elizabeth  Milbank  Ander- 
son. It  is  temporarily  occupied  by  a  garden,  athletic  field 
and  tennis  courts.  The  Sun  Dial  was  given  by  the  Class  of 
1907;  the  marble  bench  by  the  Class  of  1909;  the  Norway 
maples,  by  the  Class  of  1910;  the  Flag  Pole  by  the  Class 
of  1911. 

The  main  group  of  buildings  north  of  H9th  st.,  were 
designed  by  Lamb  and  Rich,  architects.  The  center  one, 
Milbank  Hall  (erected  1890;  gift  of  Mrs.  A.  A.  Anderson 
in  memory  of  her  parents)  contains  on  the  first  floor  the 
offices  of  the  dean,  the  secretary,  the  bursar,  the  provost, 
the  registrar,  and  the  Trustees'  Room. 

The  enti^ance  hall  contains  a  collection  of  Piranesi  engravings,  the 
gift  of  Mrs.  A.  A.  Anderson,  several  casts  of  sculpture  by  Florence 
artists  of  the  fifteentTi  and  sixteenth  centuries,  a  cast  of  Verocchio's 
David,  a  bas-relief  of  a  Madonna  and  Child  by  Benedetto  da  Majano, 
a   bas-relief   of  a   Madonna   by  Mine   da  Fiesole.      On   the, first   stair 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  275 

landing  is  a  bas-relief  of  the  Ascension  by  Liica  delta  Robhia,  a  group 
from  a  tympanum  in  the  church  of  San  Jacopo  di  Ripoli  at  Florence, 
and  two  fragments  of  a  frieze,  from  the  Forum  of  Trajan.  In  the 
Trustees'  Room  are  a  bust  of  the  Reverend  Arthur  Brooks,  the  first 
chairman  of  the  Board  of  Trustees,  portraits  of  Miss  Laura  Drake 
^Gill,  dean  of  the  College  from  1901  to  1907,  of  President  Frederick 
*A.  P.  Barnard,  and  of  Mr.  Silas  B.  Brownell,  chairman  of  the  Board 
of  Trustees  of  Barnard  College,  painted  by  his  daughter,  Miss  Matilda 
Brownell,   and   a  plan   of  the   proposed   buildings. 

On  the  second  floor  are  the  Ella  Weed  Reading  Rooms, 
dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Miss  Ella  Weed, .  trustee  and 
chairman  of  the  Academic  Committee  from  the  founding  of 
the  College  until  her   death   in   1894. 

On  the  E.  is  Brinckerhoff  Hall  (erected  1896;  gift  of 
Mrs.  Van  Wyck  Brinckerhoff).  This  contains  a  theatre.  By  the 
door  of  the  theatre  is  a  bas-relief  of  Mrs.  Craigie,  the  English 
novelist,  by  A.  Drury  and  the  inscription :  Pearl  Mary-Teresa 
Craigie  (John  Oliver  Hobbes),  Nov.  3,  1867- Aug.  13,  1906. 
A   tribute  to  her  memory  from  her  many  friends.     1908. 

On  the  W.  is  Fiske  Hall  (erected  1897;  the  gift  of  Mrs. 
Josiah   M.    Fiske)    similar   in   design   to    Brinckerhoff. 

A  Students!'  Hall,  given  by  Mr.  Jacob  H.  Schiff,  was 
erected  on  Milbank  Quadrangle  near  117th  st.,  in  1916;  it 
contains'  the  gymnasium,  swimming  pool,  reading-room,  lunch 
room,  doctor's  and  nurse's  offices,  and  room  for  student 
organizations. 

Teachers  College  occupies  the  block  betw.  120th  st.,  121st 
St.,  Broadway  and  Amsterdam  ave.  It  was  incorporated  in 
1887  and  later  allied  with  the  University.  The  Main  Build- 
IN(^  is  on  the  N.  side  of  120th  st.  midway  in  the  block  (erect- 
ed 1894;  William  A.  Potter,  architect.) 

On  the  second  floor  is  the  Educational  Museum,  con- 
taining exhibits  relating  to  modern  school  appliances  and  the 
history  of  education.  On  the  third  floor  is  the  Bryson 
Library,  containing  over  84,000  pedagogical  books  and  pam- 
phlets and  about  225  educational  periodicals. 

To  the  west  is  the  adjoining  Milbank  Building  (erected 
1897;  gift  of  Joseph  Milbank;  William  A.  Potter,  architect.) 
containing  the  Milbank  Chapel,  a  memorial  to  Jeremiah  and 
Elizabeth  Lane  Milbank.  The  chimes  are  a  memorial  to 
Mary  D.  Runyan,  instructor  in  the  kindergarten  from  1896 
to  1905. 

North  of  the  Main  Building  and  adjoining  the  Milbank 
Building  is  the  Macy  Manual  Arts  Building  (erected  1896; 


1 


276  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITV 

gift  of  Mrs.  Josiah  Macy;  architect  William  A.  Potter)    in 
which  is  situated  the  School  of  Practical  Arts. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Macy  Building  and  adjoining  is   the 

Household  Arts     Building     (erected     1909,     Parish    and 

Schroeder,  architects)     containing    the    work    in    domestic* 
science. 

On  I20th  St.  W.  of  the  Milbanjc  Building  is  the  Thomp- 
son Building  (erected  1904;  gift  of  Mrs.  Frederick  F. 
Thompson;  Parish  and  Schroeder,  architects)  devoted  to 
the  departments  of  hygiene  and  physical  training. 

In  the  entrance  hall  is  a  marble  relief  of  Mr.  Thompson,^  by 
Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  four  relief  panels  in  Caen  stone  by  Domingo 
Mora^  and  a  life;-sized  copy  in  marble  of  the  Discobolus.  The  building 
contains  gymnasiums,  swimming  pool,  etc. 

The  Horace  Mann  School  at  the  corner  of  120th  st  and 
Broadway  (erected  1901 ;  gift  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  V.  Everitt 
Macy;  Howells  and  Stokes,  and  Edgar  H,  Josselyn,  architects) 
was  established  in  1887  in  connection  with  Teachers  College. 
It  has  all  grades  from  the  kindergarten  through  the  high 
school.  The  building  is  brick  and  red  sandstone,  Georgian 
style,  and  has  been,  since  its  foundation,  both  in  methods  and 
equipment,  not  merely  a  model  school,  but  a  laboratory  for  the 
practical  trial  and  demonstratfon  of  new  educational  methods. 

In  the  same  block  but  facing  on  Amsterdam  ave.  are 
three  dormitory  and  apartment  houses.  In  thei  center, 
Whittier  Hall  (erected  1901 ;  Bruce  Price  and  J.  M.  A. 
Darrach,  architects)  is  a  residence  hall  for  women  students. 
The  adjoining  Halls,  Lowell  to  the  S.  and  Emerson  to  the 
N.,  are  occupied  chiefly  by  families  of  the  University  faculty. 

Departments  of  the  University  situated  in  other  portions 
of  the  city  are:  The  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons, 
loth  ave.  and  59th  st.  (p.  236) ;  College  of  Pharmacy,  No. 
115  W.  68th  St.,  (p.  239) ;  The  Speyer  School,  No.  94 
Lawrence  st.   (p.  343). 


MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  279 

38  of  these  leaflets,  some  of  which  are  out  of  print).  Most 
of  them  describe  exhibits  of  special  importance.  The  price 
is  from  5  to  20c. 

The  checkroom  and  public  telephone  are  W.  of  entrance. 
The  Lavatories  are  in  the  basement:  Men,  R.  stairway; 
Women,  L.  stairway. 

During  the  season  several  courses  of  lectures  are  de- 
livered in  the  large  Assembly  Hall  (capacity  1500)  on  the 
ground  floor:  one  course,  for  members  only,  is  given  Spring 
and  Fall;  another  course,  free  to  the  public,  is  given  Tues. 
and  Sat.  evenings,  under  auspices  of  Board  of  Education. 
Lectures  for  children  (intended  specifically  for  pupils  of 
the  public  schools)  are  given  Mon.,  Wed.  and  Fri.  at  4  p.  m. 
There  are  also  special  lectures  for  the  blind,  under  the  Thome 
Memorial  Fund. 

All  exhibits  are  carefully  and  very  fully  labelled,  ren- 
dering a  minute  guide-book  almost  unnecessary.  The  follow- 
ing synopses  will  direct  the  visitor  to  the  most  important 
exhibits.  The  floor  area  of  the  Museum  is  enormous,  and 
several  days  could  be  profitably  spent  here  by  even  the  most 
casual  sight-seer.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  in  general 
Jji  the  exhibits  of  this  Museum,  both  in  method  of  display  and 
tut  actuating  ideal,  are  models  of  their  kind,  no  museum  of 
natural  history  in  th^  world  presenting  their  equal. 

^  Beyond   the   Visitors*    Room   we   first   enter   the    South 

^  Pavilion,  known  as  Memorial  Hall,  In  the  centre,  facing  the 
entrance  is  a  marble  statue  of  Morris  K.  Jesup,  third  Presi- 
dent of  the  Museum  {William  Couper,  sculptor). 

Mr.  Jesup  was  -a  founder,  a  trustee,  and  for  twenty-seven  years 
President  of  the  Museum.  It  was  he  who  donated  the  marble  busts 
which  now  occupy  the  wall  niches  of  the  Memorial  Hall.  These  busts 
represent  noteworthy  pioneers  of 'American  Science,  and  include,  begin- 
ning at  the  left:  Commander  Peary  (b.  1856)  explorer;  Joseph  Henry 
(1797-1887),  discoverer  of  electro-magnetic  induction;  Louis  Agassis, 
zoologist  (1807-73);  John  James  Audubon  (1780-1851),  naturalist;  John 
Torrey  (1796-1873),  botanist;  Spencer  Fullerton  Baird  (1823-1887), 
zoologist;  James  Dwight  Dana  (1813-1859),  geologist;  Joseph  Leidy 
(1823-1891),  anatomist;  Edward  Drinker  Cope  (1840-1897),  naturalist; 
Alexander  von  Humboldt  (i 769-1 859),  geography;  Benjamin  Franklin 
(1706-90)    printer,   etc. 

This  room  is  also  devoted  to  meteorites  (showing  the  three  types, 
siderites,  siderlites,  and  aerolites),  the  most  interesting  of  which 
Ahnighito  or  The  Tent,  at  the  west  of  the  entrance,  is  the  largest  known 
meteorite  in  the  world,  weighing  36^  tons.  The  Dog  weighs  987 
pounds,  and  The  Woman  about  3  tons.  The  other  meteorites,  proceed- 
ing to  the  west  from  the  entrance  are:  Mukerop  (Animals),  siderite,  665 
Ibs^  from  Amalia,  South  West  Africa;  Guffy,  siderite,  682  lbs.,  from 
Guny,    Col.;    Brenham,   siderite,    218   lbs.,   a   fragment,    from    Brenham, 


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MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  281 

Kansas;  Potest  City,  a  fragment  of  an  aerolite  seen  to  fall  with  dazzling 
light  and  thunderous  noise,  May  2,  1890,  at  5.15  p.  m.  in  northwestern 
Iowa,  and  scatter  in  fragments  over  an  area  one  by  two  miles  in  ex- 
tent; Selima,  an  aerolite  310  lbs.  from  Selima^  Ala.;  Tucson,  a  cast  of 
a  meteorite  of  unusual  shape  in  the  National  Museum  at  Washington; 
Canyon  Diablo,  containing  diamonds,  siderite,  1087  lbs.,  from  Canyon 
Diablo,  Ariz.;  Long  Island,  pieces  of  the  largest  known  aerolite 
from  Phillips  County,  Kans.,  near  the  town  of  Long  Island;  Estatado, 
an  aerolite,  268  lbs.,  near  Lubbock,  Texas.  Knowles,  a  siderite,  355  lbs., 
from  Knowles,  Okla.;  El  Inca,  a  cast  and  a  slice  of  a  siderite  from 
Lagunas,  Chile,  So.  Am.;  the  Wilamette  Meteorite,  the  largest  ever 
found  in  the  U.  S.,  a  siderite,  from  19  miles  south  of  Portland,  Ore., 
weighing  15.6  tons;  Mukerop  (Gibeon)  a  cast  and  slice  of  a  siderite  from 
Gibeon,  South  West  Africa. 

In  the  East  Corridor  are  globe  maps  of  Polar  Regions, 
sledges  used  by  Admiral  Peary  and  Amundsen  on  their  re- 
spective journeys  to  the  North  and  South  Poles,  and  a  Seis- 
mograph (Passage  to  South  Central  Wing)  for  measuring 
earthquake  shocks. 

The  Southeast  Wing  (Forestry)  is  devoted  to  the 
♦Jesup  Collection  of  North  American  Woods.  At  the  right 
side  of  the  entrance  is  a  bronze  bas-relief  of  Mr.  Morris  K. 
Jesup,  depicting  him  in  his  favorite  woods,  at  Lenox,  Mass. 
Along  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  room  are  glass  cabinets 
containing  specimens  of  different  wood,  showing  trunk,  cross- 
section,  polished  sections,  and  foliage  and  fruit  in  water- 
color  plates  and  in  wax  reproductions.  The  "Lowest**  trees, 
evergreens,  are  on  the  N.  and  the  "Highest  trees"  on  the  S. 
side.  On  either  side  of  the  entrance  are  cross-sections  of 
California  trees. 

On  the  N.  is  a  section  of  a  Sequoia,  the  (Sequoia  washingtoniana 
iWinslow  Sudworth)  Big  Tree  of  California,  from  King's  River 
forest,  Fresno  Co.,  Cal..  16^  ft.  in  diameter  inside  the  bark,  the 
section  being  taken  12  ft.  from  the  ground.  By  the  rings  the  tree 
is  1 341  years  old.  They  sometimes  live  5000  years.  This  wood  is  it 
small  value  as  lumber.  On  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  is  a  cross- 
section  of  the  Coast  Redwood  {Sequoia  sempervirens  Endl.),  vised 
extensively  for  shingles,  construction,  and  interior  finish,  and  growing 
from  southern  Oregon  to  Monterey  County,  Cal.  Halfway  down  the 
hall  oii  the  South  side,  over  the  cases,  is  a  section  of  a  Douglas 
Spruce  or  Red  Fir  (Pseudotsuga  taxiforlia  (Lam.)  Britton)  cut  in 
Oregon,  '6  ft.   in  diameter,  having  569  rings. 

The  South  East  Pavilion,  or  Darwin  Hall  is  devoted 
chiefly  to  invertebrate  animals,  and  to  groups  illustrating 
biographical  principles.  Facing  the  entrance  is  a  bronze 
bust  of  Darwin,  the  gift  of  The  New  York  Academy  of 
Sciences,  in  1909  (Darwin  centenary),  William  Couper, 
sculptor.  This  Pavilion  contains  a  synoptic  series  of 
specimens  and  models  illustrating  the  Classes  of  Animals 
aranged  to  illustrate,  ist  the  various  natural  groups  of 
the     animal     kingdom     and     2nd     the     various     biological 


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MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  283 

phenomena  often  common  to  animals  and  plants.  The  12 
alcoves  follow  the  12  natural  groups  or  "branches"  of  the 
animal  kingdom  in  their  arrangement  of  specimens,  models, 
and  charts.  Alcove  i,  The  lowest  animals ;  2,  The  sponges ; 
3,  The  Polyps;  4,  The  flat  worms;  5,  The  round  worms;  6, 
The  Rotifers;  7,  The  Molluscoids;  8,  The  Starfish,  etc.; 
9,  The  Segmented  Worms;  10,  The  Crabs,  insects,  etc.;  11, 
The  Mollusks;  12.  The  Highest  Vertebrated  Animals.  The 
General  Biological  Phenomena  show  i,  Growth;  2,  Repro- 
duction; *3,  Variation;  4,  Coloration;  5,  Distribution;  6, 
Ethnological   Biological  Adaptation   Phenomena. 

Probably  the  most  interesting  series  of  exhibits  in  this 
section  are  the  Habitat  Groups  of  Invertebrates,  illustrating 
the  natural  history  of  the  commoner  and  more  typical  species. 
TJiese  groups  show,  above  water  level  .a  distant  landscape  view 
of  the  surrounding  country  represented  by  an  enlarged  colored 
photographic  transparency.  In  the  foreground,  the  shallow 
water  near  the  shore  is  represented  in  section,  to  expose  the 
animal  life  below  the  surface.  The  followin»y  groups  are 
now  on  exhibition:  i.  Marine  Worm  Group,  as  seen  in- 
the  Harbor  of  Woods  Hole,  Mass.;  2.  Shore  Mollusk  Group, 
at  Cold  Spring  Harbor,  L.  I. ;  3.  Wharf  Pile  Group,  showing 
the  piles  of  an  old  wharf  at  Vineyard  Haven,  Mass.  (sea- 
anemones,  hydroids,  mussels,  sea-mats  and  sea-squirts.) 

In  the  Central  cases  are:  a  group  showing  the  Struggle 
foi^  Existence,  in  which  animals  prey  upon  each  other;  Madrepora 
palraata  Lamarck,  Nassau,  N.  P.  Bahamas  (probabhr  the  finest  speci- 
men ever  collected);  3  cases  showing  invertebrates  of  the  Bahamas:  An 
Oyster  Bed,  A  Sponge  Crab  Group,  Corals  and  Echinoderms;  5  models 
of  the  Malaria  Mosquito  enlarged  75  times  (Larva,  pupa,  male  and  fe- 
male adult,  and  life  history).  The  table  cases  show  varieties  of  the 
common  snail;  color  variation  in  a  West  Indian  Sun  Shell;  Scallop 
shell  variations:  Tiger-Cowry  shells;  Precious  Coral  and  Sections  of 
Shells.    Land  Crabs  of  the  Bahamas  are  also  represented. 

Returning  to  the  entrance  hall,  we  enter  the  South 
Central  Wing  devoted  mainly  to  Indians  of  the  North  Pacific 
Coast,  with  an  Eskimo  collection  in  the  corridor  at  the 
northern  end.  Most  of  the  North  Pacific  collections  was 
acquired  by  the  Jesup  Expedition  of  1897-1900.  In  includes 
also  a  part  of  the  Terry  Collection. 

A  notable  feature  of  this  room  is  its  mural  decorations. 
Those  of  Arctic  scenery  are  by  Frank  Wilbert  Stokes.  Note 
especially  The  Land  of  the  Midnight  Sun,  on  Northern  wall. 
The  mural  decorations  illustrating  the  industries  and  cere- 
monies of  British  Columbia  and  Alaska,  are  by  Will  S. 
Taylor;  there  are  sixteen  large  panels  on  the  E.  and  W.  walls ; 
note  especially  two  instructive  groups  near  entrance  to  the 
Auditorium :    i.  Eskimo  Woman  cooking  Blubber ;  2.  Eskimo 


284  .       RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Woman  Fishing  through  the  Ice.  The  North  Pacific  Indians 
are  fishermen,  clever  workers  in  cedar,  wood  and  bark;  do 
much  weaving  and  little  tanning;  build  large  plank  houses 
and  totem  poles;  make  baskets,  but  no  pottery.  Down  the 
center  of  the  room  on  either  side  and  in  the  corridor  beyond 
is  a  large  collection  of  Totem  Poles. 

These  are  posts  from  the  entrances  of  houses,  from  the  in- 
terior, from  graves,  and  other  places,  carved  with  the  crests  of  the 
householders  and  representations  of  the  protectors  of  the  families. 
Taking  the  alcoves  on  the  right  in  order  we  find  Lilloset  basket  work  and 
clothing;  Bella  Coola  Indians'  ceremonial  masks,  and  other  articles;  cere* 
monials  of  Tsimshian  Indians  including  rattles  and  gongs;  ceremonials 
of  Haida  Indians,  slate  dishes  and  boxes,  and  a  model  of  a  Haida 
House,  with  carving  representing  the  various  myths;  ceremonials  of  the 
Tlingit  Indians,  including  masks  used  in  incantations  representing  guard- 
ian spirits.  Returning  toward  the  entrance  of  the  hall  we  pass  the  center 
cases.  The  first  contains  a  life-sized  group  illustrating  the  domestic 
life  of  the  Kwakiutl  Indians  of  Vancouver  Island;  the  family  is  at  work 
about  a  fire;  an  old  man  is  cooking  by  throwing  heated  stones  into  a 
box;  a  younger  man,  the  head  of  the  family,  is  painting  a  box;  one  wife 
is  making  a  mat  and  another  shredding  birch  bark  for  weaving;  a  daugh- 
ter is  curing  fish;  a  baby  is  in  a  cradle.  The  way  the  baby's  head  is 
packed  into  the  wooden  box  shows  the  method  of  forcing  the  head  to 
grow  to  a  peak,  the  effect  being  seen  in  the  woman  beside  the  baby.  The 
next  case  contains  a  reduced  model  of  a  village  of  the  Kwakiutl  Indians 
on  Vancouver  Island,  showing  the  homes,  surroundings,  beach>  etc.  In 
the  center  of  the  room  is  a  huge  canoe  of  the  type  used  for  ceremonial 
visits,  purchased  of  the  Haida  Indians  living  on  Queen  Charlotte  Islands, 
and  filled  with  life-sized  models  representing  a  chief,  his  accompanying 
officials,  and  slaves  paddling.  The  canoe  is  64^  ft.  long  .and  8  ft.  wide. 
The  trunk  is  made  of  one  cedar  log,  dug  out,  softened  by  water  kept  hot 
with  stones,  and  spread  by  means  of  thwarts.  The  first  alcove  to  the 
left  of  the  entrance  contains  masques  and  tishing  implements;  the  fol- 
lowing alcoves  contain:  bark  fabrics,  toys,  woodcarving,  children's  ar- 
ticles, baskets,  ceremonial  articles.  In  front  of  the  3d  alcove  is  a  model 
showing  canoe  making.  In  front  of  the  fourth  boxes  mad»  of  cedar 
wood  for  storing  winter  provisions.  The  alcove  contains  Kwakiutl  cerC' 
monial  clothing,  models  of  ships  and  examples  of  weaving.  The  next 
one  holds  Kwakiutl  fishing  implements,  boxes,  carvings,  and  masks. 
In  the  6th  alcove  are  Haida  Indian  handicraft  implements  and  utensils 
and  in  the  7th,  Tlingit  Indian  clothing,  ceremonial  articles,  implements, 
horn  spoons,  and  warriors'  armor. 

Corridor.  Aleut,  Siberian,  Alaskan  and  Central  Eskimo  are  repre- 
sented. The  articles  were  obtained  by  Commander  Peary,  Capt.  George 
Cromer,  the  Jesup  Expedition,  and  Stefansson.  The  murals  are  by 
Frank  WUbert  Stokes.  The  Eskimo  are  mammal  hunters,  clever  workers 
in  bone  and  ivory  and  antlers.  They  do  much  tanning  and  little  weav- 
ing. They  build  snow  houses  and  skin  tents.  Little  pottery.  The  alcove 
on  the  W.  side  contains  models  of  men  engaged  in  arranging  the  dif- 
ferent parts  of  dog  harness,  etc.  This  method  of  sledding  is  shown  by 
various  models,  and  over  the  cabinet  is  a  full-sized  dog  sled.  The  prim- 
itive snow  goggles  are  also  exhibited  as  well  as  many  carvings  in  ivory, 
bone  and  stone.  Baskets,  implements  of  various  kinds,  tools  for  dressing 
skins,  household  articles,  games  and  toys,  are  here.  Nearby  are  models 
of  a  winter  camp  and  a  summer  camp.  In  the  case#  are  shown  a  life- 
sized  woman  cooking  and  a  man  fishing  through  the  ice,  while  in  the 


MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  285 

long  wall  cases  are  fishing  implements  and  handiwork  implements. 
In  one  case  is  a  collection  of  implements  from  the  blond,  blue-eyed 
Eskimo  discovered  by  the  Stefansson-Anderson  expedition.  Bows, 
arrows,   and   articles  of  clothing  are  also   shown. 

In  the  corridor  is  a  bust  of  Prof.  Bickmore.  The  Auditorium  is 
entered   from   here. 

Returning  again  to  the  entrance  hall,  we  pass  through 
a  small  IV est  Corridor  (containing  temporary  exhibits,  and 
on  the  staircase  landing,  the  Demuth  Collection  of  Pipes  and 
Smoking  Material),  to  the  three  rooms  of  the  Southwest 
Wing,  Pavilion  and  West  W^ing,  devoted  to  Indians  of  the 
Woodlands,  Indians  of*  the  Plains,  and  Indians  of  the 
Southwest.  The  collection  in  the  first  room  was  made 
mainly  by  officers  of  the  museum,  but  contains  also  articles 
selected  from  the  Bolton  and  Carver  Manhattan  Island  Col- 
lection, the  Skinner  Stat  en  Island  Collection,  the  Booth  Hud- 
son Valley  Collection,  and  the  Tefft  Collection. 

Taking  first  the  alcoves  on  the  right  or  N.  of  the  hall  we 
have  from  the  Eastern  Algonkin  are  canoes,  baskets,  clothing.  The  relics 
from  the  early  Indians  were  found  in  snell  heaps  and  burial  ridges. 
They  consist  chiefly  of  stone  hammers,  arrow  heads  and  bones.  A 
small  model  of  a  Kock  Shelter  in  Westchester  County  shows  how  the 
early  Indians  utilized  caves  for  dwellings.  Some  of  the  bones  and  ar- 
row heads  found, in  the  dirt  layers  of  the  floor  arei  in  the  same  case. 
The  table  case  in'  the  center  aisle  contains  fine  specimens  of  wampum. 
The  Penobscot-Delaware  exhibit  h  a  somewhat  small  one,  showing  has-, 
kets,  snow-shoes,  etc  The  cases  along  the  wall  contain  models  of  the 
Thompson  Indians,  British  Columbia:  a  winter  village;  houses  being 
built.  In  the  O  jib  way  collection  the  chief  objects  01  interest  are  the 
woven  matting,  the  beautiful  woven  bags,  the  elaborate  bead  work, 
and  the  fur  articles.  The  last  case  on  this  side  contains  three  canoes 
of  different  construction  and  fishing  raft  of  reeds.  Returning  to  the 
lower  end  of  the  room  to  follow  the  Iroquois  exhibit,  we  have  first  a 
life-sized  model  of  a  woman  grinding  co/n,  a  priest  and  a  warrior, 
before  an  elm-bark  house.  In  the  first  alcoves  on  this  side  devoted 
to  the  Iroquois,  are:  collections  of  arrow-heads,  silver  jewelry,  tools 
and  implements,  cradle  boards,  games,  weapons,  bead  work,  clothing, 
masks  and  ceremonials.  The  center  table  cases  in  the  aisles  contain 
especially  choice  specimens.  Articles  belonging  to  the  Cherokee  Semin- 
oles  of  the  same  general  sort.  Among  the  Menomini  objects  notice 
especially  the  bead-work,  the  woven  mats  and  the  medicine  bags.  In 
the  Sauk  and  Fox  alcoves,  the  kitchen  outfit  is  complete  and  the  trunks 
made  of  cowhide  are  effective.  In  the  Winnebago  section  the  bead- 
Work,  the  buckskin  clothes,  and  the  small  models  of  houses  are 
noteworthy. 

The  adjoining  hall  is  devoted  to  Indians  of  the  Plains. 
Most  of  the  articles  were  collected  by  museum  expeditions; 
others  belong  to  the  Leaders  collection,  the  Tefft  collection 
or  the  collection  presented  by  George  Bird  Grinnell. 

The  Indians  here  represented  dwelt  between  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Rockies;  depended  much  upon  the  buffalo  and  very  little 
upon  agriculture;  used  dogs  and  later  horses  for  transportation.  Their 
designs  show  geometric  art  and  their  ceremonials  ,have  a  wide 
range.       Infc^rmation     concerning       the   different     tribes     is     hung    on 


286  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  cases  and  maps  show  their  localities.  The  first  alcove  on  the  W. 
or  right  side  is  devoted  to  the  Plains  Cree.  Several  cases  devoted  to  the 
Dakotas  follow.  Here  are  especially  fine  buffalo  robes  with  pictures  and 
designs  painted  on  the  skin  side;  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  which  is 
the  "black  war  bonnet"  pattern,  the  rays  of  the  design  representing 
feathers.  The  beadwork  is  marvellous.  In  the  wall  case  the  shoulder 
garment  of  the  woman  and  the  bead  cradle  are  fascinating  pieces  of 
work.  The  Crow  Indian  ceremonials  are  worth  attention;  The  Sarsi 
jewelry  and  bead-work  is  noteworthy.  The  circular  alcove  contains  some 
of  the  Mills  collection  of  Catlin  Paintings.  The  entire  number,  350  oil 
paintings  represent  ^8  different  Indian  tribes .  and  were  painted  from 
1832  to  1840.  48  additional  ones  represent  South  American  Indians.  In 
the  table-cases  are  specimens  of  the  decorative  arts,  wonderfully  beau- 
tiful articles  in  bead  work  and  the  quill  embroidery  which  preceded  the 
introduction  of  beads.  In  the  case  of  the  Gros  Ventre  Indians  is  a 
shirt  ornamented  with  a  symbolic  design  of  azure  and  stars,  and  in  the 
next  case  one  ornamented  curiously  with  feathers.  The  Arapaho  Indians 
have  a  great  number  of  ceremonial  dances.  A  wall  case  near  the  tower 
alcove  contains  life-sized  models  of  dancers  and  the  floor  cases  de- 
voted to  this  tribe  show  the  costumes  and  ceremonies  of  the  Fast 
Dance,  the  Drum  Dance,  the  Crazy  Dance,  The  Dog  Dance,  and  the 
Buffalo  Dance  performed  bv  women.  A  floor  case  near  the  center  of  the 
room  contains  a  small  model  of  the  Arapaho  Sun  Dance,  held  annually 
three  days  and  nights,  during  which  time  the  dancers  neither  ate  nor 
drank.  Other  floor  and  wall  cases  hold  articles  belonging  to  the  Nez 
Perce,  the  Shoshone,  the  Ute,  the  Kiowa,  the  Comanche,  the  Wichita, 
and  the  Pawnee  tribes.  The  Hidalsa-Mandan  exhibit  is  especially  full 
and  beautiful.  The  most  noticeable  object  in  the  room  is  a  huge 
Blackfoot  tipi,  a  tent  made  about  1874  in  Montana;  the  fire  is  near 
the  center  directly  under  the  smoke  hole;  the  man  is  sitting  at  the  south 
as  customary,  with  his  wife  between  him  and  the  door,  a  grandmother 
and  a  baby  are  on  the  other  side;  the  door  faces  east.  A  near-by  case 
contains  a  Medicine  Pipe. 

The  last  hall  is  devoted  to  Indians  of  the  Southwest. 
The  articles  are  from  museum  expeditions  to  New  Mexico 
and  Arizona,  from  the  Hyde  Collection  and  from  the  L«w- 
holts  collection.  The  nomadic  tribes  are  arranged  on  the 
east  or  right  and  the  pueblo  tribes  on  the  west. 

The  first  division  of  the  nomadic  tribes  is  the  Eastern  Apaches. 
These  Indians  formerly  lived  in  Buffalo  skin  tipis.  In  dress  and 
outward  life  they  resemble  the  Plains  Indians,  but  in  their  myths  and 
ceremonies,  are  like  their  southwestern  neighbors.  Their  most  inter- 
esting industry  is  basket  making.  The  Museum  contains  a  fascinating 
display  of  Jicarilla  basketry  and  some  Jicarilla  pottery.  The  table  case 
contains  ornaments  and  bead-work  of  unusual  beauty.  Farther  on  is  a 
fine  collection  of  Mescalero  baskets.  Next  comes  a  collection  of  Navajo 
blankets  of  wonderful  color  and  design  some  of  the  smaller  being  still 
on  the  looms  to  show  the  primitive  method  of  weaving.  A  center  table 
case  contains  a  small  mod^l  showing  the  Navajo  industries.  In  an  alcove 
on  the  right  is  a  Navajo  Hogan  or  winter  dwelling  place  set  up  in  its 
original  form.  ^  The  Navajo  silverwork  in  the  center  table  cases 
is  more  artistic  in  design  and  workmanship  than  any  in  the  preceding 
rooms.  The  Pima  basketry  is  worth  close  attention.  The  floor  and 
table  cases  down  the  center  of  the  room  contain  pueblo 
models  and  relics.  A  model  of  the  Pueblo  of  Acoma  in  western 
New  Mexico,  on  a  mesa  357  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain, 
shows  the  construction  of  rooms,  one  above  another,  reached  by  out- 
side ladders.  An  ancient  pueblo  shrine  is  from  a  village  not  known  to 
have  been  inhabited  later  tnan  1540.     A  prehistoric  blanket  «found  wraft* 


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288  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

pcd  around  a  naturally  mumified  body  buried  by  a  cave-in  in  Grand 
Gulch,  Utah,  was  made  long  before  historical  data  of  the  people  begins. 
The  square  case  contains  beautiful  turquoise  beads  found  in  Rooms  33 
and  ^8,  Pueblo  Bonito,  Chicago  Canyon,  New  Mexico.  A  model  of  tne 
Pueblo  of  Taos  looks  like  the  ancestor  01  the  New  York  tenement  house. 
On  the  left  side  of  the  hall  is  the  pueblo  exhibit.  The  end  case  con- 
tains pottery;  large  bowls  used  for  storage  jars,  mixing  bowls,  water 
jars,  etc.,  smaller  ones  used  'as  dishes  ana  ceremonial  containers.  The 
pottery  of  all  the  tribes  is  similar,  although  differences  are  observed  in 
the  clay,  paint  and  material.  The  table  case  contains  implements  and  the 
opposite  case  painted  buffalo  robes.  The  second  alcove  is  devoted  to 
buckskin  clothing,  beadwork,  ornaments,  medicine  outfits,  ceremonials, 
and  specimens  of  food  including  the  parer  bread  taking  its  color  from  the 
color  of  the  corn  from  which  it  is  made,  dried  beans,  seeds,  etc.  In  the 
third  alcove  is  a  large  collection  of  prehistoric  pueblo  pottery.  Spme- 
what  further  along  on  the  wall,  is  a  model  of  the  remains  of  a  cave 
town  in  the  Lower  Canyon  of  the  Rio  de  Chelly,  Ariz.,  perched  in  a 
huge  cave  75  feet  above  the  valley.  A  second  model  is  a  restoration 
of  the  village.  The  remaining  alcoves  show  objects  collected  from  other 
tribes.  The  Hopi  basket  trays  and  pottery  and  the  Zuni  weaving  and 
pottery  are  noteworthy. 

On  the  2nd  floor,  close  by  the  elevators  in  the  Southeast 
Wing,  is  the  *Hall  of  Mammals  of  North  America.  This 
collection  of  land  mammals  of  North  America  is  motmted 
both  in  single  specimens  and  in  groups  showing  the  homes 
and  habits  of  the  animals.  The  mounting  and  setting  is  done 
with  such  skill  that  many  of  the  cases  are  strikingly  beautiful. 
On  either  side  of  the  entrance  are  cases  containing  groups 
of  animals  found  within  fifty  miles  of  New  York,  including 
the  Weasel,  in  summer  and  winter  garb  and  quarters,  the  Gray  Fox, 
the  Red  Fox,  and  the  Opossum,  the  Wood  Hare  and  Flying  Squirrel. 
On  the  left^  are  the  Musk-rat,  the  Mink,  the  Skunk,  the  Canadian  Porcu- 
pine, the  Gray  Squirrel,  the  Chipmunk,  and  the  Flyinar  Squirrel.  Fol- 
lowing the  alcoves  on  the  right  down  the  hall,  we  nave  the  family 
? roups,  the  Collared  peccary  (Tagassu  augulatum  humerale  Merrlam) 
rom  Mexico,  at  home  in  sand  and  cactus;  Grant's  Barren  Ground 
Caribou  (Rangifer  granti  Allen)  from  the  Alaskan  '  Peninsula  group, 
feeding  from  lichens  and  moss;  Greenland  Musk-ox  (Ovibos  moschatus 
wardi)t  specimens  collected  by  Peary  \  Pronghorn  Antelope  {Antilocapra 
americana  Ord.)  graceful  creatures  from  western  North  America;  a 
Virginia  Deer  (Oaocoileus  virginianus  Bodd)  from  Michigan;  Califor- 
nia Mule-deer  {Odocoiieus  hemionus  californias  Caton)  from  lower 
California;  the  Wild  Boar  (Sus  set  of  a  Linnaeus)  elaborately  set  in  a 
fighting  tableau,  from  Germany;  the  Polar  B&dir  {Thalassarctos  mariti- 
mus  Phipps)  in  snow  and  ice  scene;  Stone's  Mountain  Sheep  (Ovis 
stonei  Allen)  from  near  the  Alaskan  bounderv;  and  a  hemisphere  show- 
ing the  geographical  distribution  of  North  American  Sheep.  The  end 
cases  contain  groups  of  Roosevelt's  Elk  and  the  Bighorn,  a 
Mountain  Sheep.  Returning  down  the  center  of  the  room,  the 
center  cases  are:  a  large  group  of  Atlantic  Walrus  (Odobenus 
rosmarus  Linnaeus),  the  male  being  a  huge  animal;  American  Bison  or 
Buffalo  (Bison  bison  Linnaeus)  some  in  summer  and  some  in  winter 
coats,  mounted  in  an  autumn  prairie  setting;  Moose  (Alee  americanus 
Jardine)  feeding  in  a  charming  fir  and  birch  grove;  and  a  single  speci- 
men of  Alaskan  Moose  iParatces  gigas  Miller).  On  the  left  side  are: 
separately  mounted  mountain  sheep  and  other  animals,  a  large  collection 
of  squirrels,  hares  and  other  rodents;  a  fine  scene  showing  the  Sonoran 
Beaver  (Castor  canadensis  frondator  Mearns)  from  Colorada,  at  work 
in  the  wood  and  water  outside  the  house;  and  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Goat   (Oreamnos  montanus  columbianus  Allen)    from  British   Columbia. 


MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  289 

The  Southeast  Payillon,  opening  out  of  this  hall,  is  at  present 
occupied  as  a  work-soom. 

In  South  Pavilion,  on  the  2nd  floor,  across  the  East 
Corridor,  Mammals  from  many  countries,  accompanied  by 
their  skeletons,  are  ranged  about  the  walls.  The  interesting 
feature  of  this  hall  is  the  reptile  habitat  groups.  On  the 
left-hand  side,  halfway  down  the  hall  is  a  doorway  marked 
*Home  Life  of  North  American  Reptiles;  in  the  semi-darkened 
room  within  are  marvellous  reproductions  of  the  Giant  Sala- 
mander, or  Hellbender,  performing  extraordinarily  cannibal- 
istic feats;  New  England  Bullfrogs  in  idyllic  surroundings; 
Lizards  of  Lower  California  amon?  sand  and  desert  vegeta- 
tion; and  a  family  group  of  Toads  and  their  relatives  of 
Southern  New  England.  So  perfect  is  the  reproduction  that 
the  immobility  seems  uncanny. 

In  the  main  room  the  center  cases  contain  equally  admirable 
pieces  of  mounting;  the  Gila  Monster  (Heloderma  horridum  Weiz- 
man)  from  Mexico;  a  Copperhead  den  (Ancistrodon  contortrix) ; 
Florida  or  Diamond-backed  Rattle-snake  iCrotaius  adamanteus 
Beauvois);  a  den  of  the  Banded  or  Timber  Rattle-snake 
iCrotatus  korridus);  Iguana  (Iguana  tuberciHata  rhinolopha  Laur.) 
a  large  lizard-like  creature;  a  Flying  Dragon  (Draco  volans  Gray) 
a  tiny  creature  which  might  have  come  out  of  a  fairy  story,  from  the 
Indo-Malayan  countries;  the  Deadly  Moccasin  (Ancistrodon  piscivorus) 
and  harmless  Water  Snake  (Natrix  taxispilotus) ;  The  Water  Monitor 
iVaranus  salvator);  the  Cobra  {Naja  tripudians)  and  Viper  {yipera  rus- 
setlii) ;  the  Texas  Rattlesnake  (Crotalus  atrox  Baird  and  Girard)  from 
Brownsville,  Texas;  the  Box  tortoise  iCistudo  Carolina);  and  the  Pine 
Snake  (Pituophis  melanolucus).  Some  of  these  specimens  are  placed 
among  flowers,  some  in  woodland  pools  and  some  in  tropical  vegetation; 
in  every  setting  the  beauty  of  the  reptiles  is  clearly  brought  out. 

The  South  Central  Wing  on  the  2nd  floor  is  devoted  to 
Birds  of  the  World.  The  Geographical  collection  begins 
at  the  left  and  continues  nearly  around  the  room  m  the  alcove 
cases.  The  birds  are  arranged  according  to  country;  Aus- 
tralian, Africa,  Indo-Malay,  Eurasian,  Arctic,  North  American 
Temperate,  'North  American  Tropical;  ;South  American 
Temperate,  Antarctic.  The  Synoptic  Collection  im  the  first 
four  main  cases  near  the  door  on  the  right,  contains  typicaA 
examples  of  each  family  of  birds. 

Albinos,  Hybrids  and  other  abnormal  birds  are  in  cases 
in  the  center.  The  nests  and  eggs  are  in  the  alcove 
cases  on  the  right,  toward  the  rear  of  the  hall.  The  extinct 
.  and  nearly  extinct  birds  are  in  the  first  center  cases.  Groups 
illustrating  facts  of  structure  and  habits  of  birds  begin  on  the  left  in  the 
first  alcove,  continue  the  length  of  the  hall  and  part  way  down  the  cen- 
ter. These  are  delightfully  set,  as  are  the  groups  in  preceding  halls. 
They  include:  the  Cliff  Swallow  {Petrochelidon  luniferons  Say,)  found 
throughout  North  America;  the  Bank  Swallow  (Clun'cola  riparia  Linn) 
a  migratory  bird;  the  Black  Duck  (Anas  obscura  Gmel)  of  eastern 
North  America;  the  Double  Yellow-headed  Parrot  (Amasona  oratris 
Ridgway),  a  good  talker,   from  the  low-lands  of   Mexico;   the  Clapper 


290  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Rail  (Rallus  longirostris  crepitans  Gm.);  the  Kingbird  iTyrannus 
tyrannus  Linn)  a  migratory  bird;  the  Pine  Finch  (Sptnus  pinus  Wils), 
a  migratory  bird:  the  Maryland  Yellow-throat  iGeoth^pis  trichas  Linn) 
a  swamp  bird;  the  Crested  Cassique  (Ostinops  decumanus  Pall)  a  |^r- 
geous,  large,  yellow  and  black  bird  of  South  America,  building  haneins 
nests  like  the  oriole;  the  Chimney  Swift  (Chaetura  pelagica  L),  which 
builds  in  farmhouse  chimneys;  the  Laughing  Gull  (Larus  atricilla  Linn) 
with  its  nest  among  the  grass;  the  Pied-billed  Grebe  (Podilymbus  podi- 
cefs  L)  living  in  both  North  and  South  America:  two  cases  showing  the 
relation  of  the  structure  of  birds  and  their  habits;  a  case  illustrating^ 
plumage;  and  a  case  with  four  sections  showing  the  White  Tailed  Ptarmi- 
gan (Lagoptu  leucurus  Swains)  in  four  costumes  for  the  four  seasons 
and  illustrated  also  with  photographs.  A  large  case  of  Birds  of  Para- 
dise is  placed  in  the  center  of  the  hall.  For  further  collections  sec 
West  Cforridor  on  this  floor  (see  below)  and  Gallery  of  this  hall 
described  with  3d  floor  (p.  293). 

The  southern  part  of  the  hall  of  birds  and  part  of 
the  Corridor  of  the  Central  Pavilion  on  'the  2nd  floor  are 
given  up  to  the  representation  of  the  Marine  and  Fresh 
Water  Fishes  of  the  Worlds  It  contains  typical  examples 
of  the  various  groups  of  vertebrates  popularly  comprised  in 
the  term  fishes,  arranged  in  the  order  of  development: 

Lampreys  and  Hag  fish,  eel-like  creatures,  with  round  sucking 
mouths  and  no  jaws;  Sharks  and  Rays,  Fish  with  soft  skeletons  and 
small  bony  scales  (the  most  anoient  type  of  fish) ;  Toleosts  or  Bony 
Fish,  comprising  about  10,500  species  or  over  9-10  of  existing  forms, 
including  the  majority  of  game  and  food  fish^  like  bass,  cod,  carp,  etc. 
Most  of  the  fish  are  displayed  as  single  specimens  in  wall  cases  or,  if 
large,  suspended  from  above.  A  few  habitat  groups  arranged  so  that  the 
light  comes  through  them  from  the  window  with  a  translucent  effect, 
are  as  successful  as  the  mammal  and  reptile  groups.  They  are:  the 
Shovel-Nosed  Sturgeon  and  its  Associates  (Scaphirhynchus  platorhyn- 
chus  Raftnesque) .  from  Iowa;  the  Bowfin  (Amia  calva  Linnaeus)  with 
its  "nests'*  from  Wisconsin:  Chimaeroids  or  Rat  fishes — a  group  of 
"silver  sharks,"  nearly  scaleless,  living  mostly  in  deep  sea;  Lung 
fishes — an  ancient  and  nearly  extinct  group  of  salamander-like  fishes  from 
Australia,  Africa  and  South  Amed-ica;  Ganoids,  bony-scaled  fishes  most 
numerous  in  early  geological  ages  now  surviving  in  the  sturgeon,  Gar, 
Pike,  Paddlefish,  etc.;  Spawning  Long-Nosed  Pike  (Lepisosteus  osseus 
Linn)  from  Wis.;  Sea  Lamprey  (Petromyson  marinus)  from  Long 
Island;  and  the  Paddlefish  and  its  associates,  from  Mississippi. 

A  *case  in  a  dark  alcove  shows  luminous  deep  sea  fish, 
illustrating  by  an  alternating  electric  current  how  they  appear 
by  their  own  light  and  how  they  appear  in  full  light. 

In  the  West  Corridor  on  the  2nd  floor  are  Birds  found 
within  50  miles  of  New  York  City.  The  systematic  collec- 
tion, starting  at  the  left  of  the  door,  contains  all  the  birds 
found  in  this  region.  The  seasonal  collection,  on  the  shelves 
near  the  window,  changing  from  month  to  month,  shows  the 
birds  in  the  vicinity  during  the  current  month;  sub-divided 
into  permanent  summer,  winter,  and  transient  divisions.  The 
nests  and  eggs  are  in  table  cases  near  the  window.  The  body 
of  the  corridor  is  filled  with  cases  of  Habitat  Groups,  soitie 


MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  291 

of  which  were  the  first  attempts  at  this  method  of  displaying 
specimens  in  this  country. 

The  South  West  Wing,  on  the  2nd  floor,  shows  the 
Archaeology  of  Mexico  and  Central  America.  Of  special 
importance  is  the  recently  acquired  Minor  C.  Keith  Collection 
of  prehistoric  gold  ornaments  and  articles  of  pottery  found 
in  the  ancient  graves  of  Costa  Rica. 

The  gold  ornaments  are  contained  in  three  cases  in  the  centre 
of  the  room,  and  comprise:  crude  images  of  animals,  including  lizards, 
frogs,  turtles,  crabs,  armadillos,  monkeys,  vultures,  butterflies,  etc.; 
gold  jewelry,  nose-rings,  arm-bands,  gorgets,  etc.;  ornaments  of  jade 
and  other  precious  stones;  religious  emblems,  of  fantastic  design  and 
some  of  them  several  inches  in  extent,  including:  a  Crocodile  swallow- 
ing a  Snake,  a  Birdlike  Figure  with  a  Lizard  in  its  Bill,  a  Man 
devoured  by  a  Vulture,  etc. 

The  pottery  and  earthenware  articles  are  in  twelve  large  cases 
arranged  along  the  S.  side  of  the  room  and  show  a  surprising  variety 
in  shapes  and  sizes. 

The  centre  of  the  room  is  also  occupied  by  huge  casts 
which  are  reproductions  of  the  Stelae  and  Ceremonial  stones 
now  buried  in  the  dense  tropical  forests  of  deserted  cities. 
The  upper  central  and  right  hand  portions  of  the  hall  are 
devoted  to  relics  of  Maya  culture.  * 

The  prehistoric  stelae,  altars  and  sculpture  are  from  the  ruins 
of  Copan,  Honduras,  near  the  southern  frontier,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Copan  River,  (an  overflow  will  be  found  in  the  portico  of  the  South 
Pavilion)  and  from  the  ruins  of  Quirigua,  Guatemala.  In  the  latter  city 
was  found  the  Alligator's  Head,  and  the  Great  Turtle,  here  reproduced 
in  casts.  In  Chichen  Itza,  the  greatest  of  ancient  Central  American 
cities,  in  Yucatan,  is  the  huge  reclining  figure,  and  the  beautifully  col- 
ored frescoes  on  the  left-hand  wall  are  copied  from  the  Temple  of  the 
Jagnars  in  the  same  city.  The  Sanctuary  pf  the  Temple  of  the  Cross, 
reproduced  halfway  down  the  hall  at  the  right,  is  in  the  ruins  of  Palen- 
qvie.  State  of  Chiapas,  Mex.  Along  ^he  £.  Wall  and  in  the  alcove  cases 
are  small  sculptures,  pottery,  ornaments  and  implements,  of  gold,  cop- 
per, and  jade,  of  different  tribes. 

The  Southwest  Pavilion,  on  the  2nd  floor,  is  devoted  to 
the  Archaeology  of  North  America.  Articles  from  mounds 
and  shell-heaps,  like  stone  hammerheads,  flint  knives,  arrow- 
heads and  bones,  are  arranged  under  the  name  of  the  State 
in  which  they  were  found. 

No  evidence  of  the  early  occupation  of  either  N.  or  S.  America  has 
been  found  except  in  Trenton,  N.  J.     This  exhibit  of  Traces  of  Man 
found  in  Glacial  Gravel  is  in  the   wall  case   near  the   tower.     In  the 
center  aisle  are  displayed  a  Cache  of  Flint  Disks,  and   models  of  the 
Serpent  Mound  in  Ohio,  and  the  Cairns  of  British  Columbia  and  Wash- 
ington.    The  pre-historic  mound  builders  appear  to   have  been  the  an- 
cestors of  the  historic  Indian.     (Special  collections  of  pre-historic  traces 
in  the  vicinity  of  New  York  City  and  in  the  Southwestern  Tribes  are  on 
the  I  St  floor  in  the  Southwest  Wing  and  the  West  Wing.)     In  the  Tower 
and  the  adjoining  cases  are  relics  proving  the  great  antiquity  of  man  in 
the  Old  World,  specimens  from  the  ages  of  stone,  bronze,  and  iron  are 
supplemented  by  reproductions  of  cavern  paintings. 


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MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY         .     293 

The  West  Wing,  on  the  2nd  floor,  entered  from  the 
North  Ammerican  Archaeological  Hall,  contains  Native  Tribes 
AND  Mammals  of  Africa. 

Among  the  Mammals  at  the  end  of  the  hall  are  Grant's  Zebra 
Group,  Antelopes,  Waterbuck,  Thomas'  Gazelle,  Hippo  and  "Caliph." 
Transparencies  in  the  windows  show  the  living  conditions  of 
African      Tribes.         Life-sized      models,      near      the      entrance,      illus- 


casting,  bark  weaving,  etc.,  of  the  various  tribefe.     The  choicest  objects 
are  in  the  center  cases. 

On  the  3d  floor  the  rooms  are  the  galleries  of  the  2nd 
floor  rooms.  The  Southeast  Wing  is  the  gallery  of  the 
North  American  Mammal  Hall.  Here  are  displayed  Mam- 
mals OF  THE  World,  typical  examples  of  existing  families, 
being  arranged  to  show  their  relationship  and  order  in 
geologic  time  and  peculiarities  of  structure,  how  developed 
and  modifications  for  locomotion.  The  gallery  contains  also 
models  and  skeletons  of  whales  and  other  cetaceans.  A  huge 
model  of  a  Sulphur  bottom  Whale  is  the  most  striking. 

In  the  Southeast  Pavilion  beyond  is  an  Insect  Collec- 
tion (supplemented  by  a  special  study  collection  for  the 
identification  of  specimens,  shown  upon  application  to  the 
curator)  containing  Local  Insects,  Migratory  Butterflies, 
Observation  Hive  of  the  Honey  Bee,  Seventeen-year  Cicada 
group.  Termite  nests,  etc. 

The  South  Pavilion,  -on  the  3rd  floor,  reached  by  retracing 
one's  steps  to  the  East  Corridor,  is  given  up  to  Primates 
AND  Birds.  It  contains  an  Orang-utan  group.  Chimpanzees, 
Gorilla,  and  Small  bird  groups. 

**The  South  Central  Wing,  on  the  3d  floor,  entered  from 
the  monkey  room,  contains  Habitat  Groups  of  Birds  of  North 
America,  geographically  as  well  as  ornithologically  accurate, 
these  vivid  and  charming  tableaux  surpass  those  of  the  mam- 
mal and  the  reptile  rooms.  They  show  the  scenery,  -setting, 
nests,  male  and  female  adults,  and  young,  reproduced  from 
close  observation  anci  photographic  study. 

The  groups  were  prepared  under  the  immediate  direction 
of  Frank  M.  Chapman,  Curator  of  Ornithology,  who  col- 
lected most  of  the  specimens,  travelling  more  than  60,000 
miles  while  doing  so.  The  backgrounds  are  reproductions  of 
specific  localities,  copied  directly  from  nature  by  the  follow- 
ing staft'  of  artists:  Bruce  Horsfall,  Charles  J.  Hit  tell 
(1861—),  /.  Hobart  Nichols  (1869--),  Carl  Rungius  (1869—), 


294  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

IV .  P.  Cox  (1872—),  Louis  A.  Fuertes  (1874—).  The  foliage 

and  flowers   were   reproduced   in   the   Museum   laboratories 

from  material  collected  at  the  localities  represented.     Each 

group  is  fully  described  on  a  placard  conveniently  attached 

by  a  cord  to  the  case,  so  that  the  visitor  can  draw  it  forward 

within  range  of  the  light  from  the  group.    The  alcoves  run 

in  the  following  order: 

Orizaba  Group:  distribution  of  birds,  illustrated  in  the  mounteins 
of  Orizaba,  Mexico,  showing  from  base  to  snow  clad  peak,  how  climate 
influences  the  migratiln  of  birds.  Cohh's  Island  Group:  Virginia 
coast,  showing  breeding  places  of  terns  and  gulls.  Duck  Hawk  Group: 
The  Hudson  Palisades,  showing  nests  of  the  duck  hawk.  Hackensack 
Meadow  Group:  showing  migrating  swallows,  blackbirds,  rails  and 
wood  duck.  Wild  Turkey  Group:  now  rare,  but  once  abundant  in 
the  wooded  regions  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  U.  S.  Florida  Great 
Blue  Heron  Group:  Reproduced  from  studies  near  St.  Lucie,  Florida. 
Water  Turkey  or  "Snake  bird"  Group:  St.  Lucie,  Florida.  Sandhill 
Crane  Group:  reproduced  from  studies  on  the  Kissimmee  Prairies, 
Florida.  Brown  Pelican  Group:  reproduced  from  Pelican  Island,  Indian 
River,  Florida,  which  is  now  a  United  States  reservation,  where  these 
grotesque  birds  may  breed  undisturbed.  Snowy  Heron  or  Egret  Group: 
reproduced  from  a  rookery  in  South  Carolina,  one  of  the  few  spots 
where  this  beautiful  bird,  sought  for  its  "aigrette  plumes,"  still  survives. 
Turkey  Vulture  Group:  Plummer  Island  in  the  Potomac  River,  near 
Washington.  This  bird  is  protected  by  law  for  its  value  as  a  scavenger. 
California  Condor  Group:  reproduced  from  studies  in  Piru  Caiion, 
California.  The  largest,  and  one  of  the  rarest  of  North  American 
birds.  Brandt's  Cormorant  Group:  reproduced  from  studies  in  Monterey, 
California.  San  Joaquin  Valley  Group:  showing  abundant  bird  life 
since  this  section  was  irrigated.  Flamingo  Group:  this  group  from 
studies  in  the  Bahama  Islands,  is  the  most  brilliant  and  spectacular 
of  all  the  exhibits  in  this  section.  Booby  and  Man-of-War  Group: 
Bahamas  Islands.  Florida  Rookery  Group:  from  the  Everglades  of 
Florida.  The  group  comprises  eight  different  species  of  birds,  including 
egrets,  herons  and  ibises.  Golden  Eagle  Group:  from  studies  from 
Brtes  Hole,  Wyoming.  Klamath  Lake  Group:  this  lake,  lying  just  be- 
neath Mt.  Shasta,  Oregon,  shows  an  astonishing  abundance  of  bird  life. 
Arctic-Alpine  Bird  Life  Group:  the  scene  depicted  is  the  Canadian 
Rockies,  above  the  timber  line.  Sage  Grouse  Group:  from  studies 
of  Medicine  Bow,  Wyoming.  Prairie  Chicken  Group:  from  studies 
near  Halsey,  Nebraska.  Wild  Goose  Group:  the  scene  is  Crane  Lake, 
Saskatchewan^  Canada.  Grebe  Group:  another  study  made  at  Crane 
Lake.  Loon  Group;  from  studies  at  Lake  Umbagog,  New  Hampshire. 
Bird  Rock  Group:  from  studies  at  Bird   Rock,   Gulf  of   St.   Lawrence. 

The  West  Corridor  on  the  3rd  floor  presents  lessons  in 
♦Public  Health  by  realistic  models  of  garbage  barrels  as 
they  should  not  be,  cellars  that  bred  rats,  polluted  bathing 
pools  and  oyster  beds,  the  before  and  after  of  a  neglected 
farm  and  other  edifying  objects,  too  realistic  to  be  ignored. 
A  complete  and  satisfactory  system  of  filtration  is  shown. 
The  inherent  viciousness  of  the  housefly  is  clear  when  the 
magnified  creature  is  beheld  and  the  flea  that  carries  the 
plague  is  revealed  a  blackguard. 


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296  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  Southwest  Wing,  on  the  3d  floor,  is  the  gallery  of 
the  Mexican  room  and  is  devoted  to  Indians  of  South 
America. 

The  floorcase  by  the  entrance  contains  ornaments  and  other  obierts 
from  Colombia,  Ecuador,  Peru,  and  Bolivia,  showing  rare  skill  of  work- 
manship prominent  in  the  relics  of  Ancient  Peruvian  Empire.  In  the  rail 
case  close  by  are  knot  records  of  the  Incas,  a  method  ox  accounting  still 
employed  in  a  crude  fashion  b^  herdsmen.  In  the  right-hand  wall  case 
are  Prehistoric  Peruvian  textiles,  found  on  mummies  and  in  graves. 
The  desiffns,  colors  and  texture  are  admirable.  In  the  rail  cases  are 
spindles,  looms,  thread,  etc.',  found  in  the  work  baskets  buried  with  the 
women.  In  the  and  alcove  case  are  terra  cotta  cylindrical  stamps  used 
for  'printing  dress  designs.  Case  after  case  of  ancient  pottery  follows. 
Far  down  the  hall  on  this  side  is  the  body  of  an  ancient  Indian  Miner 
from  Chuquicamata,  Chile,  wonderfully  preserved,  "mummified,"  by  being 
buried  in  a  copper  mine.  The  crude  tools  found  beside  him  indicate 
that  he  lived  biefore  the  coming  of  the  Spanish.  At  the  lower  end  of 
the  hall  is  a  case  of  *Nazca  pottery — ^the  most  beautiful  of  all  in  color, 
design,  and  firing.  Returning  down  the  hall  on  the  opposite  side,  we 
pass  a  Pictograph  on  a  Boulder  from  Les  Trois  Rivieres,  Island  of 
Guadeloupe^  West  Indies.  Farther  on  an  alcove  case  contains  a  collec- 
tion of  ancient  Inca  musical  instruments  from  mummy  packs  and  pre- 
historic graves.  Another  case  holds  many  Trephined  Skulls  showing  that 
the  operation  of  trephining  was  practised  by  the  ancient  Peruvians. 
The  wall  case  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  devoted  to  Peruvian  Mvm- 
mies.  On  the  floor  of  the  case  are  4  mummies,  one  of  them  extended 
at  length,  the  others  folded  in  the  usual  position,  with  chin  on  knees. 
The  covers  have  fallen  away  from  one  showing  the  exact  pos'tion. 
Beside,  are  mummies  of  parrots  and  a  dog.  ^  On  the  shelf  above  are  five 
more  in  packs,  four  of  which  have  the  curious  false  head  with  the  real 
head  separately  covered.     The  coverings  are  crudely  ornamented. 

V  The  Southwest  Pavilion,  on  the  3rd  floor,  is  devoted  to 
Living  Tribes  of  Asia.  The  cases  on  the  left,  halfway 
around  the  room  contain  Chinese  objects  and  the  remainder 
contain  Liberian  objects. 

The  Chinese  articles  are  grouped  in  the  following  order:  bamboo. 

J>orcelain,  pottery,  inlaid  work,  mattins,  metal  industry,  cloisonne  and 
acquer,  blacksmith,  carpentry,  agriculture,  carpets,  harness,  money^ 
pictures,  medicine,  wood  and  ivory  carvings,  weapons,  fans,  leather, 
writing  and  printing,  metal  (in  the  tower:  ancient  bronzes,  metal 
mirrors),  masks,  household  articles,  tobacco,  clothing  and  religion.  The 
Siberian  articles  are  grouped  according  to  tribes:  Amoor  River  (2  cases 
and  model  of  village),  Chukchee  (6  cases),  Koryak  (4  cases  and  model), 
Lamont  (2  cases).  Russianized  Natives,  Tungus  (3  cases),  Yukaghir  (2 
cases),  Yakut  (6  cases  and  model). 

The  West  Wing,  on  the  3rd  floor,  is  devoted  to  Conchol- 
OGY,  and  contains  specimens  of  some  15,000  species. 

The  greater  part  of  the  4th  floor  is  given  up  to  fossils. 
The  Museum's  collection  of  fossil  vertebrates  is  claimed 
to  be  the  finest  in  the  world,  not  only  in  number,  but  in 
variety  and  improved  methods  of  preparation.  The  collec- 
tions of  Permian  reptiles  and  of  Jurassic  and  Cretaceous 
Dinosaurs   are    also    of    much    importance.     The    specimens 


MUSEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY  297 

on  exhibition  represent  less  than  ten  per  cent,  of  the  entire 
collection,  the  rest  being  in  storage. 

In  the  East  Corridor,  the  most  striking  object  is  a  Mosasaur  or 
Great  Sea  Lizard,  set  in  plaster  and  hung  against  the  wall.  It  is  an 
exceptionally  complete  specimen,  found  in  the  Bad  Lands  of  the  Smoky 
Hill  River,  Western  Kansas.    The  length  is  30  ft.  4  in. 

The  Southeast  Wing  contains  the  fossil  remains  of  the 
Mammals  of  the  Tertiary  period,  a  geologic  age  reaching 
from  100,000  to  3,000,000  years  ago.  The  chief  feature  of  the 
hall  is  the  collection  of  fossil  horse  skeletons,  showing  the 
evolution  of  the  horse  in  nature.  It  is  claimed  to  be  the 
largest  and  finest  series  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  outnum- 
bering the  combined  collections  of  all  other  museums. 

The  visitor  will  note,  at  each  side  of  the  entrance,  charts  indicating 
the  successive  periods  of  time  from  the  Triassic  to  the  Tertiary  age 
and  the  animal  life  which  pertained  to  each.  The  series  of  horse 
skeletons  are  on  the  right,  or  south  side  of  the  hall.  The  modern 
horse,  walking  on  its  middle  toes,  is  believed  to  be  a  descendant  of  a 
hypothetical  five-toed  ancestor.  This  museum  possesses  a  unique 
specimen  of  the  earliest  species  yet  found:  the  little  four-toed  Eohippus 
which  was  no  larger  than  a  fox;  the  Protorohippus,  also  with  four 
toes  on  the  fore  feet;  the  three-toed  Mesohippus;  and  the  Proiohippus. 
also  with  three  toes.  The  specimen  of  the  Eohippus  is  from  the  Wind 
River  beds  of  Wyoming.  The  water-color  sketches  of  primitive  horses 
in  their  environment,  as  well  as  the  plaster  restorations,  are  by  Charles 
R.  Knight.  Opposite  the  horse  collection  are  a  series  of  specimens 
illustrating  the  evolution  of  the  camel,  deer  and  other  cloven-hoofed 
animals.  Near  the  centre  of  the  hall,  on  the  R.,  are  the  primitive 
rhinoceros-like  animals,  once  common  in  North  Amer-ca.  Opposite 
these  are  the  early  fore-runners  of  the  dogs,  cats  and  other  carnivora; 
and  further  on  are  skeletons  of  Titanotheres  and  Vintatheres,  huge, 
homed  animals,  peculiar  to  North  America. 

The  Southeast  Pavilion  contains  the  Dinosaur  and  other 
Fossil  Reptiles;  also  Fossil  Fishes,  belonging  to  the  period 
of  3,000,000  to  10,000,000  years  ago.  The  Dinosaurs  are 
especially  well  represented.  The  first  object  which  catches 
the  eye  is  the  gigantic  skeleton  of  the  Brontosaurus  from 
the  Jurassic  beds  of  Wyoming.  It  measures  66  ft.  8  in.  in 
length. and  is  the  only  mounted  specimen  of  its  kind  in  the 
world.  Equally  important  is  the  recently  mounted  specimen 
of  the  Tyrannosaurus,  the  most  powerful  of  the  carnivorous 
Dinosaurs.  This  specimen  is  from  Montana  and  is  at  present 
to  be  seen  in  the  South  Pavilion. 

In  the  wall  case,  to  the  L.  of  entrance,  is  a  portion  of  a  skeleton 
of  the  Dinosaur  Diplodocus,  and  on  the  R.  a  nearly  complete  skeleton 
of  a  related  species,  mounted  just  as  it  had  lain  for  10,000,000  years 
at  the  bottom  of  a  western  lake.  Near  the  above-mentioned  Bronto- 
saurus is  a  specimen  of  the  Allosaurus,  carnivorous  dinosaur  here 
mounted  as  though  feeding  on  the  fallen  carcass  of  a  brontosaurus 
(Jurassic  bed  of  Wyoming).  On  the  L.  are  two  complete  specimens  of 
Trachodons,    or    duck-billed    dinosaurs,    thirty-three    foot    reptiles    with 


298  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

webbed  feet  and  duck-like  bill;  and  more  interesting  still,  is  the 
''mummy"  of  a  Trachodon,  upon  which  the  texture  of  the  skin  has  been 
preserved.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  hall  is  a  fine  collection  of  fosnl 
turtles. 

In  the  Tower  of  the  S.  E.  Pavilion  are  the  Fossil  Fishes,  be^ 
longing  to  a  still  earlier  period  (twenty  to  thirty  million  years  ago). 
Above  the  entrance  is  a  model  of  the  jaws  of  a  huge  fossil  shark, 
with  a  spread  of  9  ft.  The  collection  of  fossil  fishes  is  arranged  histor- 
ically: I.  The  early  plate-covered  fishes;  2.  The  soft  skeletoned  Sharks: 
3. '  The  Lungfish  and  Ganoids  (supposed  to  be  the  ancestors  of  all 
land-living  quadrupeds);  4.  The  primitive  Bony-fish  (the  ancestors 
of  our  modern  herring,  cod,  mackerel,  etc). 

Resuming  to  the  East  Corridor,  we  cross  the  South 
Pavilion,  containing  skeletons  of  Quaternary  Mammals.  The 
chief  features  of  this  room  are  the  skeletons  of  Mammoths 
and  Mastodons,  the  prehistoric  relatives  of  the  elephant;  a 
number  of  curious  extinct  animals  which  roamed  South 
America  from  30,000  to  100,000  years  ago;  and  a  series  of 
modern  skeletons,  showing  the  evolution  of  the  horse  under 
the  hand  of  man. 

On  the  left,  horse  skeletons:  a  draught  horse  poised  to  pull  a  heavy 
load,  the  race  horse  Sysonby  (1902-6),  one  of  America's  most  brilliant 
racers,  an  Arabian  Stallion,  a  tiny  Shetland  Pony,  and  a  giant  Draught 
Horse.  A  large  group  of  Ground  Sloths,  an  extinct  South  American  ani- 
mal, present  an  extraordinary  sight.  These  creatures  are  related  to  the 
living  sloth  and  anteater.  Beyond  is  a  Case-tailed  Glyptodont  Pancchtus 
unearthed  near  Buenos  Ayres,  Argentina.  This  was  an  armored  mammal 
related  to  the  armadillo.  Two  extinct  South  American  animals  are  rep- 
resented by  casts:  the  Macrachenia  and  the  Toxodon.  Near  the  cen- 
ter stands  a  skeleton  of  a  Great  Sabre-toothed  Tiger  Smilodon,  an  ex- 
tinct South  American  variety  more  powerful  than  any  living  tiger. 
The  famous  Warren  Mastodon  (Mastodon  americanus)  found  near 
Newburgh,  N.  Y.,  in  1845,  is  almost  complete.  Length,  14  ft.  11  in.: 
heighth,  9  ft.  12  in.  The  Columbia  Mammoth  {Elephas  columln),  founa 
in  Indiana,  1904.  is  the  skeleton  of  a  creature  that  roamed  Nortb 
America  during  the  ice  age.  Length  13  ft,  3^  in.;  height  10  ft  6  in. 
The  skeleton  of  the  famous  elephant  Jumbo  is  preserved  here.  The 
huge  skull  and  tusks  of  the  Imperial  Mammoth  were  found  in  Victoria, 
Texas. 

The  South  Central  Wing,  on  the  4th  floor,  is  devoted 
to  Geology  and  Invertebrate  Palaeontology.  It  contains 
the  James  Hall  Collection  of  Fossil  Invertebrates,  Fossilized 
tree  stump  from  coal  mine.  Cave  material  (Calcite,  Aragonite, 
Selenite)  from  near  Chihuahua,  Mex.,  Model  of  Copper 
Queen  Mine,  Copper  Queen  Cave,  Weyer's  Cave  and  Local 
rocks  and  minerals. 

The  West  Corridor,  on  the  4th  floor,  is  the  *Morgan  Hall 
OF  Gems.  In  the  wall  cases  (on  the  right)  the  Jade,  and 
(on  the  left)  the  Calcite  and  Quartz  including  Agatized 
Wood,  are  especially  fine.  In  the  table  cases  are  shown  an 
Ancient  Agate  Axe-hammer,  Babylonian  Cylinders  for  print- 


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300  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ing,  American  Pearls,  Amber,  Amethysts,  Crystal  Balls,  Tour- 
malines, Topazes,  Garnets,  and  'other  stones. 

The  Southwest  Wing,  on  the  4th  floor,  is  the  Morgan 
Hall  of  Minerals,  including  the  Bement  collection.  To  find 
one's  way  intelligently  among  the  15,000  specimens,  the  visitor 
is  directed  to  examine  first  the  introductory  series  in  the  first 
table  cases  on  the  right-hand  side.  Here  are  specimens, 
models  and  explanations  of  crystallization,  reflection,  refrac- 
tion, double  refraction,  and  polarization.  After  studying  these 
case,  the  visitor  should  begin  his  inspection  of  the  collection 
at  the  right  hand  side  and  follow  the  cases  in  order  about 
the  room. 

The  Southwest  Pavilion,  on  the  4th  floor,  is  filled  by 
collections  from  the  South  Sea  Islands — the  tribes  of  the 
Pacific  Islands. 

The  large  models  are:  Tahitian  Fire-walker,  walking  barefoot  over 
hot  stones;  Tahitian  Firemaker  and  Coconut  Grater,  pursuing  their  primi- 
tive operations;  Tahitian-  Kava-Brewer  and  Roof -Maker,  two  women;  and 
a  Maori  Warrior  dancing  on  a  jade  bowlder.  A  tower  case  holds  a  hor- 
rible and  interesting  collection  of  real  tattooed  Maori  heads. 

The  West  Wing,  on  the  4th  floor,  is  given  up  to  articles 
from  the  Living  Tribes  of  the  Philippine  Islands. 

Near  the  entrance  is  a  full-sized  model  of  a  belt-weaving  group; 
beyond  a  small  model  of  a  house;  and  at  the  farther  end  a  iull-sized 
model  of  a  tree-house  with  its  occupant  perched  at  the  head  of  the 
ladder.  A  Moro  out-rigger  sails  full-tilt  down  the  center  of  the  hall. 
On  the  walls  are  hung  beautiful  specimens  of  matting  and  panels  of 
Philippines  woods. 

There  are  no  exhibitions  above  the  4th  floor.  The  5th 
floor  contains  the  Administrative  Offices,  a  Library  of  70,000 
volumes  on  natural  sciences,  and  Study  Collections  open  to 
students  upon  application  to  the  heads  of  the  departments. 
The  reading  room  of  the  library  is  open  free  daily  from 
9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  excepting  Sundays  and  holidays. 
The  more  important  study  collections  are  in  Anthropology, 
Geology  and  Invertebrate  Palaeontology,  Ichthyology  and 
Herpetology,  Invertebrate  Zoology,  Mammalogy  and  Orni- 
thology, Mineralogy,  Public  Health  and  Vertebrate  Palaeon- 
tology. Each  of  these  collections  comprises  large  numbers  of 
catalogued  specimens. 


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CENTRAL    PARK  301 

IX.     Central  Park 

♦♦Central  Park,  the  most  beautiful  and  the  most  famous 
of  New  York's  many  parks,  extends  N.  from  59th  St.  to 
iioth  St.  and  from  5th  Ave.  on  the  E.  to  8th  Ave.  on  the  W. 
(which  here  changes  its  name  to  Central  Park  West).  Its 
dimensions  are  2^  miles  in  length  and  Y^  mile  in  width,  con- 
taining 843  acres,  of  which  28i5  are  occupied  by  la^kes  and 
reservoirs. 

There  are  9  miles  of  carriage  drives,  6  miles  of  bridle 
paths,  many  of  which  are  sunken,  and  30  miles  of  walks ; 
there  are  36  bridges  or  archways,  and  12  tunnels;  and  there 
are  seats  for  10,000  persons. 

Central  Park  antedates  its  one  rival.  Prospect  Park  in 
Brooklyn,  by  several  years,  work  having  been  begun  upon  it 
in  1857;  and  it  owes  it  beauty  to  the  same  skilful  hands, 
having  been  designed  by  Lieut,  (later  General)  Egbert  L. 
Viele,  engineer,  assisted  by  Olmsted  and  Vaux,  landscape 
gardeners.    It  was  completed  in  1858  at  a  cost  of  $415,000,000. 

There  are  twenty-three  ^tes  to  the  Park,  upon  most  of  which  fan- 
ciful names  have  been  officially  bestowed.  They  are  situated  as  fol- 
lows: 4  on  59th  St.:  at  sth  Ave.  (Scholar's  Gate);  at  6th  Ave.  (Art- 
ist's Gate) ;  at  7th  Ave.  (Artisan's  Gate) ;  at  Sth  Ave.  (Merchant's 
Gate);  9  on^sth  Ave.:  at  64th  St.  (Student's  Gate);  at  67th  St.;  at  72d 
St.  (Children's  Gate).;  at  7Qth  St.  (Miner's  Gate) ;  at  85th  St.;  at  90th 
St.  (Engineer's  Gate);  at  96th  St.  (Woodman's  Gate);  at  io2d  St. 
(Girls'  Gate);  and  at  io6th  St.;  6  on  Sth  Ave.:  at  72d  St.  (Women's 
Gate);  at  79th  St.  (Hunter's  Gate);  at  Ssth  St.  (Mariner's  Gate);  at 
96th  St.  (Gate  of  All  Saints);  at  looth  St.  (Boys'  Gate);  and  at  io6th 
St.;  and  4  on  iioth  St.:  at  5th  Ave.  (Pioneer's  Gate);  at  Lenox  Ave. 
(Farmer's  Gate);  at  7th  Ave.  (Warrior's  Gate);  and  at  Sth  Ave. 
(Stranger's  Gate). 

All  of  the  E.  side  entrances  can  be  easily  reached  by  a  5th  Ave.  bus 
or  by  a  Madison  Ave.  surface  car.  The  3d  Ave.  elevated  is  4  blocks  to  the 
E.  of  the  park.  The  S.  side  entrance  can  be  reached  by  the  6th  Ave. 
elevated  (changes  at  50th  st.  for  the  shuttle  train).  The  S.W.  entrance 
is  close  by  the  Columbus  Circle  station  of  the  subway,  and  the  iioth 
St."  station  of  the  Bronx  branch  is  close  by  a  N.  entrance.  The  W.  en- 
trances can  be  reached  from  the  6th  and  9th  ave.  elevated  roads  (here 
identical).  The  only  sts.  crossing  the  park  are  sunken  transverse  roads 
at  E.  65th  to  W.  66th  st.,  E.  79th  to  W.  Sist  St.,  E.  Ssth  to  W.  S6th 
St.;  and  E.  to  W.  97th  st.  The  only  car  line  is  on  Ssth  st.  Park  car- 
riages make  the  tour  of  the  park  in  one  hour;  fare,  2sc.  They  start  from 
Sth  ave.  and  59th  st.;  and  from  Sth  ave.  (Central  Park  West)  and  ^9th 
St..  and  allow  stop-over  privileges.  They  follow  the  two  main  drives, 
called  the  East  Drive,  near  tne  5th  ave.  side,  and  the  West  drive» 
near  the  Sth  ave.  side.  The  fashionable  time  for  driving  in  the  park  is 
in  the  morning  and  for  riding  in  the  afternoon  from  4  to  7.  Restaurants 
at  the  Casino  (good  food,  usual  prices);  also  near  the  Mienagerie  (64th 
St.)  entrance  (food  fair,  prices  low).  McGown's  Pass  Tavern  was 
recently  closed. 

The  best  way,  however,  to  see  Central  Park  is  on  foot,  because  so 
many  of  its  chief  characteristics  are  in  the  remoter  corners,  and  their 


303  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

main  charm  lies  in  the  suddenness  with  which  we  come  upon  them 
at  a  turn  in  a  path,  or  on  emerging  from  a  tunnel.  It  is  impracticable 
to  give  a  comprehensive  itinerary,  Decause  in  order  to  cover  the  whole 
ground  it  would,  be  necessary  to  double  back  upon  the  trail  repeatedly 
and  the  distance  would  be  much  too  long  for  a  single  day;  while  on  a 
second  or  third  visit  it  would  be  advantageous  to  choose  different  points 
of  departure.  Three  visits  could  be  profitably  divided  at  follows:  i. 
The  S.  £.  section,  from  the  Plaza  to  the  Belvedere,  then  £.  to  the 
Obelisk  and  Metropolitan  Museum:  2.  the  S.  W.  section,  from  Columbus 
CircLe  northward,  taking  in  the  Museum  of  Natural  History;  3.  The 
upper  portion,  from  any  one  of  the  upper  5th  Ave.  gates,  passing  the 
Mere,  McGown'd  Pass,  and  emerging  at  Central  Park  West  and  iioth 
St.,  in  convenient  proximity  to  St.  John's  Cathedral  and  Morningside 
Heights. 

The  following  tentative  route  covers  the  more  essential  points  of 
interest: 

We  enter  from  the  Pla^a  (5th  Ave.  and  SQth  St)  through 
the  Scholar's  Gate,  passing  the  equestrian  statue  of  General 
Sherman,  by  Saint  Gaudens  (p.  205).  At  this  entrance  begin 
the  main  Eastern  Driveway  and  the  Bridle-path ;  here  a  group 
of  curious  bystanders  may  usually  be  seen,  watching  tiie  fine 
thoroughbreds  waiting  with  their  grooms,  for  the  arrival  of 
their  masters  or  mistresses.  W.  across  the  drive  is  an  un- 
draped  bronze  bust  of  Von  Humboldt  (1769-1859),  by  Gustav 
Blaeser,  dated  Berlin,  1869. 

A  jpath  branching  to  the  W.  leads  down  to  the  Pond,  5  ac^es  in  extent, 
lying  m  a  deep  depression,  the  rocky  walls  narrowing  so  sharply  at  cer- 
tain points  as  to  give  the  effect  of  a  chain  of  diminutive  lakes.  The  chief 
attraction  of  the  Pond  for  children  ar«  the  "Swan  Boats,"  a  ride  on 
which  costs  5  c. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  take  the  path  to  the  E.  of  the 
bridle-path,  and  reach  the  Menagerie,  a  small  collection  inade- 
quately housed  in  cramped  and  gloomy  buildings.  Its  chief 
distinction  has  been  its  unusual  success  in  breeding  lions  and 
hippopotami  in  captivity.  This  was  for  many  years  New 
York's  only  zoological  garden:  now  that  the  Bronx  Park 
Zoological  Garden  (p.  366)  has  surpassed  and  largely  super- 
seded it,  tourists,  if  possible,  visit  the  latter,  in  which  case 

the  one  in  Central  Park  may  very  well  be  passed  by. 

Strung  along  the  path  leading  to  the  main  collection  are  a  series  of 
pens  containing,  i.  a  small  herd  of  Bison;  2  Elks;  3.  Red  Deer; 
4.  more  Elks;  5.  Fallow  Deer. 

In  the  center  qf  the  main  group  of  buildings,  and  facing  the  64th 
St.  entrance,  is  the  Old  Statg  Arsenal,  with  observation  rooms  of  the 
Weather  Bureau  on  the  top  floor.  At  the  right  is  an  Eagle  Cage.  The 
side  hill  pens  contain  an  Aoudad,  Bactrian  Camel,  CaPe  Buffalo  from  S. 
Africa,  and  American  Bison.  Beyond  is  a  yard  devoted  to  Angoru 
Goats.  On  the  hill  arc  Bear  Cages,  in  one  of  which  which  is  an  excel- 
lent pair  of  Polar  Bears.  Directly  behind  the  arsenal  is  an  animal  house 
containing  two  Leopards,  a  Puma,  two  Hippopotami  from  the  Nile  and 
a  baby  born  May  14,  19 14,  and  the  Lions.     Most  of  the  lions  were  born 


CENTRAL    PARK  ,  303 

here  and  there  are  usually  cubs  of  different  ages  on  exhibition.  Each  lion 
is  known  by  name:  Dewey,  born  Sept.  24,  1899;  Miss  Fulton,  Aug.  36, 
1909;  Leo  II.,  June  8,  1901;  Akbar,  Oct.  11,  1910;  Helen,  Oct.  17,  »904. 
The  Primate  House  contains  Monkeys  and  Lemurs.  The  3rd  house  con- 
tains two  Zebra,  a  Gnu,  an  Indian  Antelope,  a  Llama,' ^  tank  of  Alli- 
gators, a  Red  Deer,  and  Axis  Deer.  One  Aviary  contains  Pheasants  and 
other  birds;  the  second,  Pelicans  and  White  Storks.  Raccoons  and  Foxes 
are  housed  in  a  long  low  set  of  pens  and  the  low  iron  fence,  curving 
at  the  top,  surrounds  the  Prairie  pog's  Village. 

To  the  N.,  past  the  Eagle  Cage,  a  winding  path  brings 
us  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  Mall.  Midway  on  this  path  are 
stationed  a  group  of  ponies  and  donkeys;  rides,  loc. 

The  Mall  is  a  spacious  avenue,  about  one- third  of  a  mile 
in  length,  and  beautifully  shaded  with  arching  elms.  To  R. 
and  L.  are  numerous  statues  and  busts,  of  varying  merit,  but 
by  no  means  negligible : 

(i)  At  S.  end  of  Mall  on  R.,  Columbus,  bronze  figure, 
heroic  size,  by  /.  Sunol;  (2)  opposite  on  L.,  Shakespeare, 
bronze  figure,  heroic  size,  /.  Q.  A.  Ward;  (3)  and  (4)  N. 
on  Mall,  Sir  Walter  Scott  (on  R.)  and  Robert  Burns  (on  L.), 
two  seated  colossal  figures  in  bronze,  by  Sir  John  Steele; 
(5)  W.  behind  Burns,  the  Indian  Hunter,  in  bronze,  by  /.  Q. 
A.  Ward;  (6)  on  R.,  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  seated  bronze 
figure,  heroic  size,  by  John  Wilson  Alexander  McDonald; 
(7)  N.  end  of  Mall,  Beethoven,  bronze  bust,  by  Henry  Baerer 
(gift  of  the  Beethoven  Maennerchor)  ;  (8)  to  the  W.,  Eagles 
and  Prey,  by  Christian  Fratin. 

The  Mall  terminates  at  the  Terrace,  which  commands  a. 
znew  of  the  Esplanade  and  the  Lake.  The  Terrace,  an  ornate 
structure  of  yellow  stone,  leads  down  to  the  Esplanade  by 
three  stairways,  the  central  stairway  being  sunk  beneath  the 
driveway,  through  a  tiled  and  ornamental  arch  or  tunnel. 
The  two  side  stairs  are  open  and  curiously  panelled  with 
carved  designs  of  birds,  animals  and  fruits.  In  the  center 
of  the  Esplanade  is  the  Bethesda  Fountain. 

It  represents  the^  story  of  the  Pool  of  Bethesda,  St.  John,  V,  3-4. 
The  central  feature  is  an  angel,  poised  as  if  just  alighted  on  a  mass 
of  rock,  who  with,  outstretched  arms  is  blessing  the  waters  that  fall 
from  tho  upper  to  the  lower  basin,  over  the  four  symbolic  figures  ot 
Purity,  Temperance,  Health  and  Peace. 

The  picturesque  Lake  on  the  N.  well  repays  a  trip 
around  it  either  in  a  row-boat  or  an  electric  launch.  It  is 
about  five  acres  in  extent. 


304  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Fares:  Electric  launches,  adults,  loc;  children,  5c.  Party  Bo 
I,  2  or  3  persons,  35c.  per  half-hour;  each  extra  person,  adults  i 
children  5c.;  with  boatman,  25c.  extra  per  half-hour.  The  boat-ho 
is  a  few  yards  £.   from   Esplanade. 

Continuing  E.  around  the  Lake,  we  reach  the  Rami 
one  of  the  most  attractive  sections  of  the  park,  containi 
a'  maze  of  tangled  paths  and  stairways  and  bridges,  z 
zagging  up  the  face  of  a  cliff,  or  leading  down  into  ravin 
and  at  one  point  passing  through  a  natural  Cave. 

In  the  Ramble,  approximately  opposite  76th  St.,  is  a  bronze  b 
of  Schiller,  by  C.  L.  Richter;  it  was  the  first  gift  to  the  park,  wl 
presented  by  the  German  residents  in  1859. 

N.  of  the  Ramble,  on  the  lower  margin  of  the  Old  F 
ceiving  Reservoir,  stands  the  Belvedere,  an  orijamen 
structure  of  granite,  with  a  50-ft.  Tower,  from  the  top 
which  may  be  had  the  most  extensive  view  in  the  park, 
also  gives  opportunity  to  observe  how  the  park  is  divid 
into  two  parts  by  two  reservoirs  belonging  to  the  Crot 
system  (p.  xxvii).  The  large  one  holds  1,030,000,000' ga 
and  the  small  one  150,000,000. 

Paths  to  E.  and  W.  of  the  Belvedere  lead  quite  direct 
the  one  to  the  Obelisk  and  Metropolitan  Museum,  the  oth 
to  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History. 

Directly  E.  of  the  smaller  reservoir  and  S.  W.  of  tl 
Museum  rises  *Cleopaxra's  Needle  (PI.  V — C4;  p.  304),  j 
Egyptian  obelisk  69^^  ft.  high,  weighing  224  T.,  original 
standing  in  Cairo,  in  front  of  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  ar 
erected  about  1500  B.  C.  by  Thutmosis  III.  Augustus  Caes; 
removed  it  in  12  B.  C.  to  Alexandria.  The  Khedive  of  Egy 
gave  it  to  the  United  States  in  1877,  and  it  arrived  at  i 
present  site  in  1880. 

Thfi  obelisk  is  a  single  shaft  of  syenite.  The  inscription  on  the  si 
exposed  to  the  desert  sand  storms  was  already  blurred  when  the  shs 
reached  us.  Since  then  our  changeful  climate  has  further  injured  t 
stone,  but  it  is  now  coated  with  preservative.  The  hieroglyphics  wei 
inscribed  by  Thutmosis  III.  Others  were  added  by  Rameses  II.  sor 
three  centuries  later,  about  the  time  of  Moses.  Two  of  the  origin 
bronze  crabs  which  were  under  the  corners  of  the  obelisk  are  in  the  13I 
Egyptian  Room  (p.  309)  of  the  Art  Museum,  together  with  prints  shov 
ing  the  obelisk  in  its  Alexandrian  surroundings.  A  companion  obelii 
is  in  London. 

For  the  Metropolitan  Art  Museum  to  the  east  see  p.  30: 

The  Harlem  Mere  (12  acres)  is  a  charming  lake.  Near-b 
are  the  green-houses  opened  in  1899  at  a  cost  of  $55»ooo. 


I  1 1 

i  3l|  II 


ii  iiiii 


CENTRAL    PARK  305 

McGown*s  Pass  Tavern  (recently  closed)  is  on  the  side 
of  a  tavern  erected  about  1750. 

This  was  a  strategic  point  during  the  Revolutionary  War  and 
a  body  of  American  soldiers  pursued  by  the  British  passed  this 
point  Sept.  15,  1775.  The  British  erected  entrenchments  here.  Nov. 
16,  1776,  the  large  number  of  American  soldiers  captured  at  Fort 
Washington  (p.  355)  were  marched  through  here  on  their  way  to 
prisons.  Nov.  ai,  1783,  the  British  evacuate  the  Pass.  In  1814  Fort 
Clinton  was  erected  on  the  top  of  the  hill  above  Harlem  Mere,  traces  of 
the  earthworks  being  still  visible.  A  memorial  tablet,  on  a  mount  of  old 
cannon  and  mortar,  erected  by  the  children  of  the  City  History  Club, 
marks  the  spot.  The  Block  House  on  the  rocks  by  Warriors  Gate 
(7th  ave.  ana  iioth  st)  was  erected  in  1814.  It  was  one  of  four  guard- 
ing the  roads  from  the  N. 

Among  the  other  monuments  in  the  park  are  an  enormous  bust  of 
Giuseppe  Mazzini.  the  Italian  Revolutionist,  (West  Drive,  opposite 
66th  St.),  modeled  by  G.  Turini,  and  presented  in  1876  bv  the  Italians 
of  the  United  States;  Daniel  Webster,  by  Thomas  Ball  (near  W.  7'd 
St.  entrance),  a  colossal  bronze  ^gure  on  a  granite  base;  Alexander 
Hamilton,  by  Carl  Conrads  (on  East  Drive,  N.  W.  of  Metropolitan 
Museum),  a  granite  figure  in  colonial  costume;  The  Pilgrim,  by  /.  Q.  A. 
Ward  (near  yad  St.  entrance),  a  bronze  figure  on  a  rough-hewn  granite 
pedestal,  erected  by  the  New  England  Society  in  1884;  on  the  four 
sides  are  bas-reliefs  in  bronze:  "C\>mmerce,"  "The  Mayflower,"  "Bible 
and  Sword,"  "Crossbows  and  Arrows";  Still  Hunt,  by  Edward  Kgmgys 
( 1 843-1907),  a  crouching  panther  in  bronze  (East  Drive,  opposite  76th 
St);  Seventh  Regiment  Memorial,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward  (West  Walk, 
opposite  67th  St.T,  a  soldier  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  erected  in  1869 
by  the  Seventh  Regiment;  The  Falconer,  by  George  Simonds  (near 
7 2d  St.,  west  entrance),  a  bronze  figure,  heroic  size,  with  falcon  on 
gauntleted  left  hand;  Albert  B.  Thorvaldsen,  a  Danish  sculptor,  by 
Himself  (5th  Ave.  and  96th  St.  entrance),  bronze  figure,  life  size, 
erected  by  the  Danes  of  America. 

Adjoining  the  park  on  the  W.  side  is  the  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History  at  77th  St.  (p.  278). 

X.     Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art 

♦♦The  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (VI — E3)  is  sit- 
uated in  Central  Park,  with  the  main  entrance  on  5th  avenue  at 
82nd  St.  (The  5th  ave.  stage;  Madison  ave.  surface  cars,  one 
block  east.  West  Side  lines  of  cars  at  59th  and  86th  sts. 
The  nearest  3d  ave.  elevated  station  is  at  84th  st.) 

The  Museum  is  open  daily:  Saturday,  10  a.m.  to  10  p.m.; 
Sunday,  i  p.  m.  to  6  p.  m.;  other  days,  including  legal  holidays.  10  a.  m. 
to  5  p.  m.  m  winter,  6  p.  m.  in  summer.  On  Mondays  and  Fridays  only, 
an  admission  fee  of  25  cents  is  charged  (except  to  members  and  stu* 
dents).    Admission  is  free  on  all  legal  holidays. 

In  the  basement  are  a  restaurant  (W.  side;  moderate  prices,  a  la 
carte  10  a.  m.-s  p.  m.;  table  d'hote  12  m.-s  p.  m.),  and  lavatories  for 
ladies  (E.  side)  and  gentlemen  (W.  side);  there  are  other  lavatories 
close  to  the  main  entrance  (ladies,  S.  side;  gentlemen,  N.  side).  Canes, 
umbrellas,  and  parcels  are  checked  at  the  stand  to  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance (parcels,  canes  and  umbrellas,  free).  Public  Telephone  at  .sth 
ave.  entrance.     Wheel-chair,  apply  at  information  desk.     Information  Desk 


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METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  307 

at  5th  ave.  entrance.  Expert  guides  for  parties  (preferably  by  previous 
appointment)  25  c.  per  person  per  hour,  with  minimum  charge  of  $1  an 
hour. 

The  Museum  was  originally  an  unpretending  red  brick 
building  with  granite  facings,  erected  in  1879-94,  but  since 
then  at  various  times  a  gray  Indiana  limestone  facade  and 
wings  have  been  added,  almost  concealing  the  first  structure. 
The  museum  was  incorporated  in  1870.  Among  the  chief 
features  of  the  Museum  is  the  Cesnola  Collection  of  Cypriote 
Antiquities  (the  largest  in  the  world),  found  by  Gen.  di  Ces- 
nola (1832-1904)  in  1865  et  seq. :  floor  I;  Rooms  B 37,  41,  42, 
D  14,  8 ;  floor  II :  C  32.  The  collection  of  Greek  and 
Roman  antiquities  on  floor  I:  Rooms  D  i,  9,  10,  11,  12 
of  ancient  jewelry.  The  Egyptian  Antiquities  are  housed  on 
floor  I  in  a  wing  to  N.  of  the  entrance  hall ;  Floor  I :  Rooms 
D 2,  3,  4,  5;  E  I,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  H  I,  2.  Modern  sculpture  is 
represented  by  a  choice  collection  of  Rodin's  works,  Floor  I, 
Rooms  D  7,  13.  The  Bishop  Jade  Collection,  and  the  coUec* 
tions  of  armor  and  musical  instruments  are  also  of  unusual 
excellence.  The  picture  collection  was  begun  in  187 1,  with 
174  paintings  of  the  17th  and  i8th  centuries,  and  is  now  large 
and  excellent.  The  Rogers,  Hewitt,  Leland,  Kennedy, 
Hearn,  Wolfe,  Marquand,  Dodge,  Curtis,  Amelia  B. 
Lazarus,  Avery  Memorial,  Smith,  and  Egleston  funds  are  all 
available  for  the  purchase  of  pictures.  The  collection  includes 
excellent  specimens  of  the  Old  Masters  and  of  the  Modern 
French,  German,  British  and  American  schools.  "List  of 
publications"  free ;  "What  the  Museum  is  Doing,"  5c. ;  "Sculp- 
tures by  Rodin,"  25c.;  "The  Room  of  Ancient  Glass,"  loc; 
"The  Wing  of  Decorative  Arts,"  loc. ;  "Catalogue  of  the 
Paintings,"  25c.;  "Catalogue  of  Greek,  Etruscan  and  Roman 
Bronzes,"  $5.00;  "Handbook  of  the  Cesnola  Collection  of 
Cypriote  Antiquities,"  $2.50,  etc. 

Ground  Floor.  On  entering  by  the  principal  door,  we  find  our- 
selves in  a  large  Entrance  Hall  (IDi),  166  ft.  long,  48  ft.  wide,  and 
two  stories  high,  out  of  which  a  staircase  ascends  to  the  upper  floor. 
The  walls  are  hung  with  tapestries.  On  the  N.  are  a  few  sarcophagi 
belonging  to  the  Egyptian  collection,  housed  in  the  wing  beyond.  To 
the  S.  some  objects  from  the  Greek  and  Roman  collection  housed  in  the 


arc  some  oeauuiui  oronzes:  ine  moaern  statuary  nere  includes  Bac- 
chante, b^  MacMonnies,  a  Bear  Tamer,  by  Paul  Bartlett,  the  *Brazen 
Age  (Primitive  Man),  by  Rodin,  and  the  *Mares  of  Diomedes.  bv 
Gutson  Borglum.  (I.D6)  contains  the  most  recent  acQuisitions,  exhibited 
here  until  assigned  their  permanent  position  in  the  galleries.  Passing 
through  ID6,  we  approach  the  rooms  of  the  N.  Wing  devoted  chiefly  to 
the  ♦*Egyptian  collection,  (I.Da,  3.  4.  S;  Ei,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7;  Hi,  2) 
and  clearly  marked  by  signs  on  the  wall  in  the  order  in  which  they 
should  be  visited. 

The  first  exhibit  which  attracts  the  attention  of  the  vis- 


3o8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

itor  to  the  Egyptian  Collection  is  the  Tomb  of  Perneb,  the 
most  recent  and  most  impoi:tant  single  acquisition  in  the 
collection  (1916).  It  occupies  a  space  which  was  formerly 
an  inner  court,  an  opening  having  been  made  through  the 
.solid  masonry  of  the  wall,  through  which  the  entrance  to  the 
main  chamber  now  passes.  This  room  directly  faces  the 
Entrance  Hall,  and  is  officially  known  as  the  Second  Egyptian 
Room. 

The  Tomb  of  Perneb  was  discovered  by  the  Metropolitan  Mu- 
seum's Expedition  of  1907,  and  purchased  by  it  from  the  Egyptian 
Government.  The  tomb  was  situated  in  the  cemetery  of  ancient  Mem- 
phis, within  350  ft.  of  the  "Step  Pyramid"  of  King  Zoser.  It  was 
broken  into  and  pillaged  iu  ancient  times,  the  sarcophagus  opened  and 
the  mummy  stripped  of  its  ornaments.  The  sculptures,  inscriptions 
and  mural  paintings  are  in  excellent  preservation.  From  them  we 
learn  that  Perneb  was  an  important  personage  at  court,  a  Lord  Cham- 
berlain to  the  King,  with  the  honorary  title  of  "Sole  Companion.**  In 
what  reign  he  lived  is  nut  known,  but  his  date  is  conjecturally  placed 
at  about  the  twenty-seventh  century  B.   C. 

The  sculptures  and  decorations  deserve  carefu^  inspection.  On 
the  main  fagade,  to  R.  and  L.  of  entrance,  are  two  large  full  length 
portraits  of  Perneb,  iu  low  relief,  representing  him  in  the  full  dress 
of  an  Egyptian  of  high  rank.  Note  on  the  lintel  at  the  inner  end 
of  the  enta*ance  passage  an  inscription  in  ornamental  hieroglyphics, 
"The  Sole  Companion,  the   Lord   Chamberlain,   Perneb." 

The  scene  in -the  first  small  chamber  or  vestibule  shows  Perneb 
inspecting  the  cattle  and  produce  which  are  being  brought  to  his  tomb; 
in  two  of  the  registers  cattle  are  being  led  forward;  in  the  third  are 
representations  of  Perneb*s  wife  and  sons. 

In  the  passage  between  the  vestibule  and  main  chamber  are  fig- 
ures personifying  estates,  which  were  to  furnish  in  perpetuity  the 
Lord  Chamberlain's  mortuary  income;  in  front  of  these  figures  are 
inscribed  the  names  of  the  estates:  for  example,  "Figs  of  the  Com- 
panion, Perneb"  and  "Onions  of  the  Companion,  Perneb." 

In  the  main  chamber  the  feature  of  chief  interest  is  the  "False 
Door,"  through  which  it  was  supposed  that  the  deceased  could  enter 
the  room  at  will.  The  door  itself  is  very  narrow;  on  either  side  are 
inscriptions  giving  a  list  of  Perneb's  titles;  on  the  outer,  taller  panels 
is  a  prayer  to  Anubis  to  grant  that  he  may  "tread  the  goodly  , paths 
which  the  honorable  ones  tread."  Above  the  door  is  a  square  panel 
showing  the  deceased   seated   before  an  offering  table. 

There  are  two  other  small  chambers,  reached  by  doors  to  R.  and 
L.  of  main  entrance.  In  that  on  R.  is  an  interesting  wooden  door, 
a  facsimile,  as  nearly  as  antiquarian  knowledge  would  permit,  of  the 
original  door.  In  the  small  offering-room  on  L.  is  a  narrow  slit  in  the 
wall  through  which  may  be  seen  a  copy  of  a  wooden  portrait  statue, 
situated  in  an  inaccessible  inner  chamber.  The  original  statue  of 
Perneb  had  perished,  the  copy  now  shown  being  made  from  another 
statue  found   in  a  neighboring  tomb. 

Outside,  fronting  the  tomb  are  numerous  photographs  showing 
the  process  of  excavation  and  transportation  of  the  stones  which  com- 
pose it;  also  two  large  cases  of  antiquities,  chiefly  in  fragments,  that 
were  found  within  it.  Passing  through  the  door  on  the  E.  side  we  reach 
the  First  Egyptian  Room  showing  tne  pre-dynastic  period  (about  4000- 
3400  B.  C.)  and  the  Early  Dynastic  Period  (I.  &  It.  Dynastiies,  about 
3400-2980  B.  C).     The  photographs  in  Window-frame  I.  show  the  open- 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  ^aog 

ing  of  the  ancient  graves  from  which  the  material  was  obtained.  Case  F. : 
flint  implements;  Case  B.,  C,  and  D.,  pottery;  Case.  E.,  stone  vases; 
«  Case  N.,  ornaments,  etc.  All  these  articles  belong  to  the  earliest  period. 
The  remainder  ot  the  cases  contain  objects  belonging  to  the  second 
period.  Case  G.,  flint  implements;  articles  from  the  royal  tombs  at 
Abydos;  ivory  figures,  seal  cylinders.  Case  H.,  a  tomb  group  of  pot- 
tery from  a  tomb  of  the  I.  dynasty.  Case  I.,  Stone  vases  from  the  same 
tomb.  Cases  J.  to  M.,  Vases,  bowls,  etc.  from  a  cemetery  of  the  II 
dynasty.     Through  the  north  door  we  proceed  to  the 

Third  EfsvpTiAN  Room.  Old  Kingdom  (III.-VI  dynasties,  about 
2980-3475  B.  C.)  Chiefly  relief  sculptures  from  the  walls  of  the  offer- 
ing chamber  in  the  tomb  of  the  Prince  Ra-em-ka  at  Sakkara.  In  the 
center  of  the  room  is  a  portion  of  the  shaft  of  a  red-granite  column  from 
the  mortuary-temple  of  the  pyramid  of  King  Unas  at  Sakkara  (about 
2650  B.  C.)     North  of  the  Third  Room  is  the 

Fourth  Egyptian  Room.  Old  Kingdom  (III-VI  dynasties,  about 
2980-2475  B.  C.)  and  Intermediate  Period  (VII-XI  dynasties,  about 
2475-2150  B.  C).  South  wall,  blocks  of  relief  sculpture.  Center  of 
room,  monolithic  column  from  pyramid  temple  of  King  Sahura  (about 
2740  B.  C.)  This  column  and  the  one  in  the  preceding  room  are 
among  the  earliest  known  columns  in  the  history  of  architecture.  Other 
walls  show  painted  reliefs  and  relief -sculpture  from  other  tombs.  Wall 
case  G,  stoneware  v^ses  for  cosmetics,  alabaster  offering  table,  set  of 
limestone  model  fkbles  of  offerings  and  dishes,  .bronze  dishes  and  tab- 
lets, head-rests,  linen  shawls.  Wall  case  S.,  types  of  pottery  of 
this  period. 

Fifth  Egyptian  Room  (same  period),  reached  from  Fourth  Room 
through  west  door.  Contains  painted  reliefs  found  at  the  Museum's 
Expedition  at  Thebes,  in  the  excavations  of  the  pyramid-temples  of 
Kings  Amenehat  I  and  Sesostris  I  (about  2000  B.  C). 

Returning  through  Fourth  Room,  we  enter  through  north  door- 
way, the  Sixth  Egyptian  Room.  Middle  Kingdom  (Xl)  XIV  dynas- 
ties, about  2160-1700  6.  C).  Objects  found  in  excavations  at  Lisht. 
Ci^ns,  funerary  models  of  servants,  painted  wooden  models  of  funer- 
ary boats,  Ci-.nopic  jars  and  chests,  weapons,  sceptres,  and  staves, 
statuettes   of   Merer. 

Seventh  Egyptian  Room.  Middle  Kingdom  (about  2100-1700 
B.  CV.  Objects  found  by  the  Metropolitan  Museum's  Expedition  in 
excavations  at  Lisht  in  tomb  of  a  woman  of  fifty,  Senebtisi:  cedar 
coffin  decorated  with  gold  leaf,  jewelry  found  on  njummy,  Canopic 
jars,  wooden  bows,  and  ceremonial  staves.  Coffins  and  objects  from 
the  coffins  and  mummy  of  Hapi  Ankhtifi,  an  omcial  of  the  XII  dynasty. 

Eighth  Egyptian  Room  (reached  through  cast  door  of  Seventh 
Room).  Middle  Kingdom  and  Intermediate  Period  (about  2 100- 15 80 
B.  C.)  Jewelry,  solar  and  divine  barks  of  Imhotep,  statuette  of 
Sesostris  I,  perfume  and  cosmetic  vases,  household  furniture,  statuette 
of  horse  and  rider.  From  the  Eighth  Room  we  return  W.  through 
Seventh  Room  and  thence  cross  through  the  Hall  of  Armor,  reach- 
ing the 

Ninth  Egyptian  Room  not  yet  ready  for  exhibition. 

Tenth  Egyptian  Room.  The^Empire  Dynasties  (about  1580-945 
B.  C).  Scarab  seals,  material  from  Palace  of  Amenhotep  III  (pottery, 
amulets,  pendants,  fragments  of  vases),  Canopic  jar  of  Queen  Tiy, 
vessels  of  faience,  glass,  alabaster,  and   bronze. 

Eleventh  Egyptian  Room.  The  Empire  Dynasties  (1580-945 
B.  C).  *Offering-chamber  of  the  Tomb  of  Schek-mes,  reconstructed 
in  original  form.  Red  quartzite  portrait  of  King  Akhenaten.  Statue 
of   an   official,    Ini,   and    his   wife,    Renut,   Ushabti   figures   and    boxes. 


310-  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

jewelry,  cofl&ns  from  Tomb  of   Sennczem,  mummy  and  coffin  of  priest 
of   XX   dynasty.      On   the   walls  are   temple   reliefs. 

Twelfth  Egyptian  Room.  Empire  and  Bubastite  Period  (about 
1560-718  B.  C).  Copies  of  mural  decorations.  Coffins  of  Khelsher, 
XXII-XXV  dynasty,  'coffins  of  Ta-Bek-en-Khonsu,  XXVI  dynasty. 
Basalt  seated  statue  of  lioness-headed  goddess  Sekhmat.  Sandstone 
window  from  Palace  of  Rameses  III,  at  Medinet  Haburin.  Relief 
showing  Seti  I  in  war.  Granite  door  jamb  from  Temple  of  Rameses 
II,  Thebes,  thirteenth  century  B.   C. 

Thirteenth  Egyptian  Room.  Saite  and  Ptolemaic'  Period  (71b- 
30  B.  CV  "Painted  capital  of  fine-grained  sandstone  from  Temple 
of  Hidis,  excavated  by  Museum's  expedition  in  the  Kharga  oasis. 
Photographs  in  window-frame  illustrate  this  excavation.  Case  A, 
bronzes  of  the  period.  Case  C,  small  objects.  Case  D,  small  amulets. 
Case  E,  sculptors'  models.  Case  F,  ushabtis.  In  the  corner  by 
Case  A,  carved  head  of  a-  priest.  Diorite  relief  from  temple  at 
Sebennytos. 

Fourteenth  Egyptian  Room.  Roman  Period  (30  B.  C.-364  A.  D.) 
and  Byzantine  Eeliod  (364-640  A.  D.).  On  cither  side  of  the  doorway 
the  Roman  bronze  crabs  from  the  New  York  obelisk.  Case  O,  a  scries 
of  plaster  masks  from  mummies.  Floor  Case  R,  *a  mummy  with 
portrait  panel  in  position.  Screens  B  and  C,  *detached  portrait  panels. 
Floor  Case  S,  *Mummy  with  mask,  Artemidora,  aged  zj.  Case  F, 
lamps,  statuettes,  vases.  Table  Case  E,  fine  jewelry,  sandles,  wooden 
combs,  ornaments.  Sculptured  friezes,  moldings,  and  capitals  from 
Monastery  of  St.  Jeremias,  Sakkara,  illustrating  the  Early  Christian 
art  of  Egyptj  Case  P,  beads,  etc.  Case  Q,  ostraca,  papyri,  writing 
tablets,  coffins  and  mummies  of  sacred  animals. 

We  are  now  back  at  the  Entrance  Hall  (IDi)  ;  on  the  S. 
side  (IDS  to  12)  we  find  Rooms  of  Greek  and  Roman 
Antiquities.  Room  IDS  contains  figurines  and  terracottas 
from  Tanagra  and  other  Greek  sites. 

Owing  to  alterations  in  the  building,  temporary  changes  have 
been  made  in  the  arrangement  of  certain  galleries.  The  frescoes  from 
Boscoreale  are  not  at  present  on  exhibition;  the  Greek  and  Roman 
sculptures  are  shown  in  the  Entrance  Hall  and  Corridor  ID14;  and 
the   Greek,    Etruscan   and   Roman   Bronzes   in   C18,   20. 

In  the  Corridor  to  the  S.  (ID9)  are  Greek  marble  statues 
(Giustiniani  collection);  also  ^Memonal  Monument  of  E.  A.  Poe  (1809- 
49),  erected  by  the  actors  of  New  York.  Room  10,  in  the  corner,  contains 
*Frescoes  from  the  Pompeian  villa  at  Boscoreale,  (overwhelmed  in  79 
A.D.  by  the  eruption  that  buried  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  and  un- 
earthed in  1900)  in  the  soft  yet  vivid  colors  that  give  Pompeiian  frescoes 
their  charm.  One  cubiculum,  or  bedroom,  has  been  reconstructed  so  as 
to  show  the  frescoes  in  their  original  positions;  frescoes  from  the  other 
rooms  of  the  villa.  Room  ID  11  contains:  Archaic  statue  of  a  woman 
from  Paros,  6th  cen.  B.C.;  Archaic  statuette  of  a  woman,  found  near 
Sunion;  head,  probably  a  fifth  century  restoration,  6th  cen.  B.  C;  Torso 
of  a  boy,  Phidian  school,  5th  cen.  B.  C;  Frag:mentary  gravestcle  of  a 
woman,  5th  cen.  B.  C;  Statue  of  a  goddess  (Giustiniani  collj*  4th  cen. 
B.  C;  Relief  of  Young  Horseman,  4th  cent.  B.  C.  Attic  Gravestone, 
4th  cent.  B.  C:  Statue  of  Goddess  Eirene  (Roman  copy  after 
Kephisodotos),  4th  cen.  B.  C.  Room  12  ("Bronze  Room")  contains 
Greek,  Etruscan,  and  Roman  bronzes  from  the  Mycenxan  to  the 
Graeco-Roman  period.  The  cases  are  chronologicallly  arranged  and  contain 
small  sculptures  in  bronze  including:  6th  cen.  B.  C.  Statuette  of  Apollo, 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  311 

Archaic  Greek;  Girl  holding  lotus-bud,  Archaic  Greek ;  Figurine  of  horse, 
Archaic  Greek;  Mirror-stand,  Archaic  Greek;  Statuette  of  youth  carry- 
ins[  a  pig,  Archaic  Greek.  In  the  middle  is  a  bronze-plated  Etruscan 
*Biga,  e  triuniphal  chariot  dating  from  the  6th  cent.  B.  C.  in  remark- 
able preservation  (wooden  parts  new).  The  panels  are  carved  with 
mythological  subjects  in  high  relief,  and  the  minor  ornamentation  is 
also  noteworthy.  Wall  cases  contain  bronze  and  iron  objects  used  in 
the  toilet^  such  as  mirrors,  fibulae  (safety-pins),  needles,  pins,  sticks 
for  applying  cosmetics:  in  the  household  economy,  such  as  cauldrons, 
pots,  pans,  shovels,  ladles,  lamps,  hinges,  keys,  etc.;  and  in  war,  such 
as  helmets,  greaves,  swords,  daggers,  spearheads,  arrowheads,  and  axe> 
heads.  Other  obiects  of  interest  are:  Contents  ox  Etruscan  lady's  tomb; 
stattie  of  a  Camillus  or  boy-acolyte  (Roman;  ist  cent.  B.  C.?);  statuette 
of  a  panther  (Roman;  Early  Empire);  car  of  Cybele  (Roman;  2nd  cent. 
A,  D.?). 

We  now  return  to  the  Entrance  Hall  and  proceed  to  the 
old  building  by  Corridor  ID  14,  which  contains  Csrpriote, 
Phoenician,  Greek  and  Roman  Antiquities.  On  the  S.  of 
this  gallery  is  the  Library,  open  to  visitors,  with  over  27,- 
000  volumes  and  37,000  photographs. 

We  now  reach  the  old  building  and  enter  a  series  of 
rooms  containing  Sculptural  Casts  (IA16-25;  30-36). 

Room  16.  Persian  Casts.  The  S.  E.  stairway  is  decorated  on  the 
landings  with  sculptures  and  bas-reliefs  by  St.  Gaudens.  Room  17 
contains  Architectural  casts  and  Models,  including  a  model  of  the 
Hypostyle  Hall  of  the  Temple  of  Karnak  and  one  of  the  Pulpit  of  Siena 
Cathedral  by  Nic.  Pisano  (1266-68;  marking  fusion  of  Gothic  and 
Romanesque  ideas  in  Italy).  Here,  too,  are  some  stone  fragments  from 
Trajan's  Forum  at  Rome '(111-114  A.  D.).  We  now  turn  to  the  right. 
Rs.  18  to  25  contain  casts  of  ancient  sculpture  arranged  by  nationality 
and  era.  (Wing  F  is  described  separately  p.  327).  Ks.  26-29  contain 
the  Crosby-Brown  Collection  of  Musical  Instruments,  arranged 
according  to  countries  and  dates.  Rs.  30'36  contain  casts  of  Gothic 
AND    Renaissance    Architecture    and    Sculpture. 

R.  37  is  the  ♦Room  of  ANaENT  Glass,  the  richest  col- 
lection in  the  world  and  one  of  the  most  important.  'Wall 
cases  i-ii  are  filled  with  glass  from  the  Cesnola  Collection, 
all  from  Cyprus.  The  5  floor  cases  hold  the  most  important 
pieces  of  the  Charvet  and  Greau  Collections  (and  some  of 
the  Syrian  vases.  Wall  cases  12-21  contain  more  of  the 
Charvet  and  Greau  Collections.  The  2  table  cases  are  given 
up  to  heads,  reliefs,  etc.  The  wonderful  iridescence  of  the 
glass  is  due  to  the  partial  disintegration  caused  by  exposure 
to  damp  and  oxidation  in  the  graves. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  and  enter  the  central  Hall  of  Architec- 
tubal  Casts  (IA36),  which  is  lighted  from  the  roof.  Among  the  chief 
objects  reproduced  here  are  the  Pulpit  of  Santa  Croce  (Florence)  by 
Benedetto  da  Maiano;  the  Monument  of  Lysicrates;  the  Parthenon 
(model),  with  full-size  reproductions  of  parts  of  pediment  and  frieze 
(on  walls) ;  topographical  model  of  the  Acropolis;  the  Pantheon  (in- 
terior accessible) ;  Notre  Dame.  Here  also  are  a  few  large  sculptural 
casts.  Above,  skirting  the  naileries,  are  casts  of  the  tympanum  sculp- 
tures of  the  E.  and  W.  pediments  of  the  Temple  of  Zeus  at  Olympia, 
and  of  the  frieze  of  the  Temple  of  Apollo  near  Phigaleia.    We  now  pro- 


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METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  313 

cced  through  Coiaidok  39  containing  a  few  pieces  of  modern  iculpture  to 
Room  IA40  a,  b,  e,  which  contains  Greek  and  Roman  Vases  of  the  sth  cen. 
B.  C.  Rooms  41  and  42  contain  the  *Cesnola  Cypriote  Collection,  includ- 
ing heads  and  other  fragments  of  statues,  statuettes  (many  with  traces  of 
coloring),  statues  (amongst  others,  an  archaic  Hercules),  terracottas. 
sepulchral  steles,  alabaster  vases,  inscribed  lamps,  etc.  All  forms  of 
ancient  art,  from  Assyrian  to  Graeco-Roman#  are  represented  in  the  ■cul|>- 
tures.  In  R.  4a  is  a.noteworthy  Sarcophagus  from  Golgoi,  650-500  B.  C. 
and^a  Sarcophagus  from  Amathus,  about  500  B.  C. 

We  return  to  the  Entrance  Hall  by  way  of  Rs.  16  (already  de- 
scribed), 15  and  13.  R  IS  contains  *  Barnard's  marble,  "I  feel  two 
natures  struggling  within  me"  and  a  few  of  the  *Rodin  sculptures,  most 
of  which  arc  in  R.  13.  They  are:  Plaster  cast  of  The  Thinken  The 
Hand  of  God,  marble;  Eighteen  signed  plaster  casts.  Study  of  Female 
Torso,  baked  clay;  Brother  and  Sister,  bronze  rephca;  The  Tempest, 
marble  relief;  The  Bather,  marble  statue;  Eve,  bronze  statue;The  Old 
Courtesan,  bronze  statuette  (E.  wall);  Study  of  The  Caryatid,  baked 
clay;  The  Martvr,  bronze;  Sketch  group  for  Triton  and  Nereid,  baked 
clay;  Study  of  head  of  Balzac,  baked  clay;  Portrait  bust  of  Jules  Dalou, 
bronze:  Orpheus  and  Eurydice,  marble;  Portrait  bust  of  Puvis  de  Cha- 
vannes,  bronze:  Cupid  and  Psyche,  marble;  Adam,  bronze  statue; 
Portrait  Bust  of  Madame  X,  marble;  Pygmalion  and  Galatea,  marble; 
St.  John  the  Baptist^  bronze  replica. 

We  have  now  finished  our  tour  of  the  ground  floor,  and 
next  ascend  the  Grand  Stairway,  ornamented  with  marble 
busts,  to  the  second  floor  Rooms  IIDio,  9,  8,  surrounding 
the  stair-opening  contain  Modern  American  Bronzes.  Cor- 
ridors IIDi  and  7  contain  Japanese  Objects  of  Art.  Room 
IID6,  the  ♦Morgan  Collecion  of  Chinese  Porcelains.  Cor- 
ridors IID5,  and  2,  Chinese  Objects  of  Art.  Room  IID4 
is  devoted  to  the  ♦Heber  R.  Bishop  Collection  of  Jades. 
The  room  is  fitted  up  so  as  to  reproduce  the  ball-room  of  Mr. 
Bishop's  house  (modelled  after  a  room  in  the  Palace  of 
Versailles)  and  contains  a  portrait  of  him  by  Bonnat.  Rooms 
IIE8  to  10  are  devoted  to  Rare  Laces. 

The  Morgan  Collection  on  loan  formerly  occupied  Rooms  IIHxi 
to  33.  They  were,  howeVer,  recently  withdrawn  (June,  19 16),  and 
9ther  exhibits  are  to  be  substituted.     The  rooms  are  at  present  vacant. 

The  Paintings  (I A  11-34)  are  on  the  second  floor  of 
the  original  building,  beginning  in  the  room  at  the  head  of 
the  grand  staircase.  In  the  main,  they  are  arranged  accord- 
ing to  schools  and  periods.  A  few  of  the  collections  donated 
have  been  kept  intact:  namely,  the  Vanderbilt^  Altnum, 
Catharine  Wolfe  and  Hearn  Collections.  The  system  of 
numbering  followed  by  the  official  guide  book  is  an  adapta- 
tion of  the  library  system,  each  picture  being  designated, 
1st,  by  the  initial  letter  or  letters  of  the  artist's  name;  2d, 
by  numbers  that  designate  his  place  in  the  collection,  and  the 
relative  time  at  which  the  picture  in  question  was  acquired. 
For  illustration,  R  82-5,  indicates  the  5th  Rubens  picture 
acquired  by  the  Museum. 


314  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

It  is  necessary  to  understand  this  somewhat  involved  method  of 
numbering,  if  one  makes  use  of  the  official  catalogue.  For  the  sake 
of  simplicity,  however,  the  present  guide  book  disregards  the  numbers 
and  merely  gives  a  list  of  the  pictures  in  the  order  in  which  they 
now  hang.     They  are  subject,  however,  to  occasional  readjustment. 

Room  A  II.  Marqi»nd  Gallery:  Masterpieces  of  Vari- 
ous Schools.  • 

North  Wall:  Johannes  Vermeer  (1632-75),  A  Lady  Waiting; 
Paolo  Veronese  (1528-88),  "Mars  and  Venus  united  by  Love;  Ver- 
meer, *A  Woman  with  a  Water  Jug. 

West  Wall:  Gioztanni  Bellini  (1428-1516),  *Madonna  and  Child; 
Franz  Hals,  Portrait  of  a  Man;  Raphael,  *Madonna  of  St.  Anthony  of 
Padua;  Fram  Hals,  Portrait  of  a  Woman;  Quentin  Massys  (1466- 
1550),  Adoration  of  the  Kings. 

Soucn  Wall:  Pieter  de  Hooch  (1629-77),  Two  Women  and  a 
Child  in  a  Court  Yard;  Sir  Anthony  Van  Vyck  (i  599-1641),  *  James 
Stuart,  Duke  of  Lenox;  Gabriel  Metsu,  A  Visit  to  the  Nursery. 

East  Wall:  Jacob  van  Ruisdael  (1628-S2)  Landscape;  John  S.  Sar- 
gent (b.  1856),  Portrait  of  Henry  G.  Marquand;  Aelbert  Cuyp  (1620- 
91),  Landscape  with  Cattle;  Rubens,  St.  Theresa  praying  for  the  Souls 
in  Purgatory;  Tintoretto  (1518-94),  "A  Doge  praying  before  the  Re- 
deemer; Tiepolo,  *Investiture  of  Duke  Harold  as  Duke  of  Franconia 
(s^udy  for  mural  painting  in  the  palace  of  the  Wartburg). 

Through  centre  door  in  W.  wall,  we  now  enter 

■Room  A  12  (American  School). 

North  Wall:  William  Morris  Hunt,  Fortune  (sketch  for  mural 
decoration  in  State  Capitol,  Albany);  George  B.  Bwtler  (1838-1907), 
The  Grey  Shawl;  Eastman  Johnson  (i 824-1906),  Portrait  of  Sanford 
R.  Gifford;  John  La  Farge,  The  Muse  of  Painting;  The  Same,  Foun- 
tain in  the  Garden,  Nikko;  Thomas  Eakins  (b.  1844),  The  Chess  Play- 
ers; W.  M.  Hunt,  Night  (sketch  for  mural  in  State  Capitol,  Albany); 
Alexander  H.   Wyant,  An   Old   Clearing. 

West  Wall:  Henry  P.  Gray,  Greek  Lovers;  Samuel  F.  B.  Morse. 
*  Henry  Clay;  John  F.  Kensett,  Lake  George;  Gilbert  Stuart,  David 
Sears;  John  N eagle.  Captain  John  Walsh;  Jasper  F.  Cropsey  (1823- 
1900)),  Landscape;  S.  h.  B.  Morse,  De  Witt  Clinton;  Gilbert  Stuart, 
George  Washin^on;  Thomas  Cole,  Oxbow,  on  Connecticut  River; 
Stuart,  'Portraits  of  Josef  de  Jaudenes  and  his  Wife,  Matilde 
Stoughton  de  Jaudanes;  Kensett,  Lanscape;  Henry  Inman,  Martin 
Van  Buren;  Stuart,  Judge  Joseph  Anthony,  Jr.;  Stuart,  "George  Wash- 
ington (Gibbs-Channing-Avery  portrait);  John  W.  Casilear,  In  the 
Pasture;  Samuel  L.  Waldo,  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson;  Stuart,  Portrait 
of  Mrs.  Joseph  Anthony,  Jr.;  Charles  W.  Peale,  "George  Washington; 
Ralph  Earle  (1751-1801),  Lady  Williams;  7.  S.  Copley,  Rev.  Daniel 
Greenfield;  Thomas  Sully,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Katherine  Matthews; 
Ashur  B.  Durand,  Ariadne;  7.  S.  Copley,  Mary  Storer  Green;  Ben- 
jamin West  (1738-92),  The  Triumph  of  Love;  Jonathan  B.  Black- 
burn, Portraits  of  William  Greenleaf  and  his  Wife,  Mary  Brown 
Greenleaf  (two  canvases  with  bullet-holes,  which  according  to  tradition 
were  made  during  the  Revolutionary  War) ;  Henry  Inman,  William 
C.  Macready;  Thomas  Doughty  (1793-1856),  Cn  the  Hudson,  near 
West  Point;  Matthevv  H.  Jouett  (1783-1827),  John  Grimes;  Thomas 
Sully,  Mother  and  Son;  John  S.  Copley,  Mrs.  John  Murray;  (next 
two  pictures  are  in  doorway)  Thomas  A^ast  (1840- 1902),  Head  of 
Christ;  Thomas  Sully,  Artist's  Daughter,  Rosalie;  Washington  III- 
ston  (1799-1843).  A  Spanish  Girl;  Benjamin  West,  Hagar  and  Ish- 
mael;   Matthew  Pratt    (1734-1805),   The   American    School. 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  315 

South  Wall:  George  L.  Brown  (1814-89)  View  at  Amalfi; 
Thomas  Doughty,  A  River  Glimpse;  John  Vanderlyn,  Portrait  of  the 
Artist;  Frederic  E.  Church,  "The  Heart  of  the  Andes;  Thomas  Sully, 
Portrait  of  John  Finlcy;  IV.  M.  Hunt,  A  Boy;  George  Inness,  Dela- 
ware Valley;  W.  M.  Hunt,  Girl  at  a  Fountain;  The  Same,  A  Girl; 
Thomas  Sully,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  Inness,  Autumn  Oaks;  George 
P.  A.  Healy  (1813-94),  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  George  Fuller,  Head 
of  a  Boy   (Artist's  oldest  son). 

East  Wall:  Edwin  White  (1817-77),  The  Antiquary;  John  Smi- 
bert.  Sir  William  Pepperrell;  John  Trumbull,  'Alexander  Hamilton; 
Samuel  S.  Waldo  (i 783-1 861),  Old  Pat,  the  Independent  Beggar; 
William  M.  Hunt,  Landscape;  Theodore  Robinson  (1852-96),  Girl  and 
Cow;  George  Fuller,  "And  She  was  a  Witch";  Joseph  Kyle,  Portrait 
of  the  Artist;  Elihu  Vedder  (b.  1836),  The  African  Sentinel;  Stuart, 
Albert  Gallatin;  Thomas  Sully,  "Queen  Victoria;  Bolton  H.  Jones  (b. 
1848),  Spring;  George  Fuller,  Nydia;  Daniel  Huntington,  *William 
C.  Prime;  Sanford  R.  Gifford,  Tivoli;  William  E.  Marshall  (1837- 
1907),  The  Artist's  Mother;   C  F.    Ulrich,  Glass  Blowers  of  Murano. 

The  door  in  S.  Wall  opens  into 

Room  B  13.     George  A.  Hearn  Collection  :     American 

School. 

North  Wall:  John  G.  Brown,  Meditation;  De  Witt  Parshall, 
Catskills;  Ralph  A.  Blakelock,  The  Pipe  Dance;  Louis  P.  Dessar,  Wood 
Cart;  Elihu  Vedder,  Pliades;  Homer  D.  Martin,  Sand  Dunes,  Lake 
Ontario;  Horatio  Walker,  The  Harrower,  Morning;  Charles  H.  Davis, 
The  Valley  and  the  West  Wind;  Dwight  W.  Tryon,  Moonrise  at 
Sunset;  Edwin  A.  Abbey,  *King  Lear;  Charles  H,  Davis,  Sunset;  E. 
Ballard  Williams,  Happy  Valley;  George  Inness,  Spring  Blossoms; 
William  Sartain,  A  Chapter  from  the  Koran;  George  Tnnesj,  Evening 
at   Medfield,    Mass. 

A\'est  Wall:  Henry  W.  Ranger,  Spring  Woods;  James  /.  Shannon, 
Magnolia;  Alphonse  Jongers,  Harpist;  A.  H.  Wyant,  Glimpse  of  the 
Sea;  George  Inness,  *Peace  and  Plenty;  William  Sargent  Kendall,  The 
Seer;  A.  H.  Wyant,  Lanscape  in  the  Adirondacks;  Alphonse  Jongers, 
Louise. 

South  Wall:  Emil  Carlsen,  Surf;  William  Sartain,  Outsido 
Mosque,  Algiers;  Thomas  W.  Dewing,  The  Sorceress;  Abbott  H. 
Thayer,  Young  Woman;  Mary  Hearn  Greims,  Stalheim,  Norway; 
Douglas  Volk,  Portrait  of  Little  Mildred;  William  L.  Lathrop,  The 
Meadows;  William  M,  Paxton,  Sylvia;  Henry  Oliver  Walker,  A 
Morning  Vision;  Louis  Kronberg,  The  Pink  Sash;  Thomas  Eakins, 
Pushing  for  Rail;  Elliott  Daingerfield,  Christ  Stilling  the  Tempest; 
William  S.  Kendall,  *Psyche;  Irving  R.  Wiles,  Portrait  of  George 
Arnold  Hearn;  Louis  Loeb,  Miranda;  Albert  P.  Ryder,  The  Bridge; 
Horatio  Walker,  The  Sheepfold;  Harry  W.  Watrous.  Passing  of  Sum- 
mer; John  W.  Alexander,  *The  Ring;  Frederick  S.  Church,  Moon- 
rise;  Frederick  Waugh,  Roaring  Forties;  Francis  D.  Millet,  An  Old 
Time  Melody;  D.  W.  Tryon,  Moonlight;  George  Fuller,  Quadroon; 
A.  C.  Howland,  New  England  Farmhouses;  William  G.  Bunce,  Early 
Morning,   Venice. 

East  Wall:  George  H.  Bogert,  Surf  and  Wind;  Alexander  H. 
Wyant,  Forenoon  in  the  Adirondacks;  Bruce  Crane,  Autumn  Up- 
lands; R.  Swain  Gifford,  Barney's  Joy  Cliff;  Ralph  A.  Blakelock, 
Indian  Encampment;  George  H.  Bogert,  Rouen;  Alexander  H.  Wyant, 
The  Broad  Silent  Valley;  /.  F.  Murphy,  The  Old  Barn;  Frederick  W. 
Kost.  Frosty  Morning;  Horatio  Walker,  Turning  the  Harrow;  Frank 
M.   Boggs,   On   the  Thames;  A.   H.    Wyant,   Mohawk   Valley. 

Continue  through  door  at  S.  E.  cor.,  into 


3i6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Room  B  14.  Hearn  Collection  continued;  British,  Dutch, 
Flemish  and  PYench   Schools: 

North  Wall :  Sir  J.  Reynolds,  *Mrs.  Arnold ;  Reynolds,  Portrait 
of  a  Lady;  Isaac  Von  Ostade,  Winter  in  Holland;  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller, 
Lady  Mary  Berkeley;  George  H.  Harlow t  Portrait  of  Himself;  John 
Crone,  Sr.,  Landscape. 

West  Wall:  John  Hoppner,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  Richard  Wilson, 
Italian  Landscape;  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  *Miss  Baring,  daughter  of 
Sir  Francis  Baring;  Sir  J.  Reynolds,  Portrait  of  Master  Hare;  Bart- 
hold  Jongkind,  Sunset  on  the  Scheldt;  John  Crome,  Old  Houses  at 
Thorpe;  John  Constable,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Pulham;  Reynolds,  Duke 
of  Cumberland;  Gainsborough,  English  Landscape;  R.  Wilson,  Lake 
of  Nemi;  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  *Lady  Ellenborough ;  Reynolds, 
Portrait  of  Mrs.  Angel;  Constable,  Bridge  on  the  Stour;  Sir  William 
Beechey,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  Robert  E.  Pine,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Reid 
as  a  Sultana;   Claude  Lorraine,  A  Seaport. 

South  Wall:  George  Romney,  *Lady  Hamilton  as  Daphne; 
Gainsborough,  Mr.  Borroughs;  Pieter  de  Hooch,  Dutch  Interior; 
Huysmans  of  Mechlin,  Landscape  with  Figures;  Jacques  Blanchard, 
Venus  and  Adonis;  Gerbrandt  Van  der  Eeckout,  Destruction  of  Sodom 
and  Gomorrah;  Jones  Stark,  Willows  by  the  Water  Courses;  W. 
Hogarth,  Peg  Woffington;  Henry  Raeburn,  Portrait  of  Wiliam  Forsyth. 

East  Wall:  Adam  Willaerts,  River  Scene  with  Boats;  Gaspard 
Dughet,  Landscape  with  Figures;  Daniel Mytens,  Charles  I  of  England; 
Emanuel  Murart,  The  Farm;  George  Vincent,  Whitlingham,  near 
Norwich;  CecU  Gordon  Lanson,  Landscape;  John  S.  Cotman,  Worcester 
Cathedral;  Anton  Van  Dyck,  *EsLrl  of  Arundel  and  his  Grandson; 
/.  5.  Cotman,  English  Village;  George  Morland,  Midday  Meal;  R.  P. 
Borrington,  Coast  Scene,  Normandy;  Sir  Peter  Lely,  Portrait  of  Sir 
William  Temple;  John  Phillip,  Gossips  of  the  Mill;  Sir  Augustus  Call- 
cott.  Landscape;  Anton  van  Dyck,  Baron  Arnold  Leroy;  Richard  Wil- 
son,  The   Storm;   Aelbert  Cuyp,   Young  Herdsmen  with  Cows. 

The  west  door  opens  into 

Room  B  15.  Hearn  Collection  concluded;  American  School : 

•North  Wall:  Albert  L.  Groll,  Silver  Clouds,  Arizona;  William 
Gedney  Boyce,  Morning  View  in  Venice;  Jonas  Lie,  'The  Conquerors 
(Culebra    Cut^;    Paul    Dougherty,    October    Seas. 

West  Wall:  Elliott  Daingerfield,  Slumbering  Fog;  Charles  W. 
Hawthorne,  The  Trousseau;  F.  W.  Benson,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  ^r^liur 
B.  Davies,  A  Dream;  Henry  B.  Snell,  Lake  Como;  W.  Elmer  Scho- 
field.  Sand  Dunes,  Lelant;  Winslow  Homer,  "North  Easter;  Homer, 
Searchlight;    Alphonse   Jorgens,    Portrait    of    Arthur    Hoppock    Hearn; 


The  Green  Bodice;  Arthur  B.  Davies,  The  Girdle  of  Ares;  James  M. 
Whistler,  'Connie  Gilchrist;  Winslow  Homer,  Harvest  Scene;  Ralph 
A.  Blakelock.  Sunset. 

South  Wall:  William  M.  Chase,  A  Seventeenth  Century  Lady; 
Robert  Henri,  The  Spanish  Gypsy;  Childe  Hassam,  Isles  of  Shoals; 
John  S.  Sargent,  Tyrolese  Interior;  Sargent,  "Portrait  of  Madame  X; 
Eugene  Speicher,  Morning  Light;  Gifford  Beal,  Mayfair;  Milton  Lock- 
wood.   Peonies;    William   M.    Chase,    Still    Life. 

East   Wall:      Cecilia  Beaux,    A    Girl   in   White;    Lillian   M.    Genth 
Spring;    Henry    G.    Dearth,    Cornelia;    Robert    Spencer,    Repairing    the 
Bridge;    Richard   E.   Miller,   The   Chinese    Statuette;    Irving   R,    Wiles 
Shelter  Island,  Summer;  John  H.   Twachmann,  The  Waterfall;   Robert 
Reid,   Fleurs-de-lys;   Mary   Cassatt,   Mother  and   Child;    Theodore  Rob- 
inson,   Giverny;    Ernest    Lawson,    Winter;    James   J.    Shannon,    Fairy 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  317 

Tales;  Alexander,  *A  Study  in  Black  and  Green;  Wiliam  McG.  Paxton, 
Tea  Leaves;  John  S.  Sargent,  Gitana;  Guy  C.  Wiggins,  Metropolitan 
Tower;  Emil  Carlsen,  Open  Sea. 

The  door  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  opens  into 

Room  B  16.  William  Vanderbilt  Collection  (Loan). 
(Flemish,  French,  German,  Italian  and  Spanish  Schools). 

North  Wall:  Jehan  Georges  Vibert,  Committee  on  Moral  Books; 
Leopold  Carl  M tiller  (1834-1892),  Street  Scene,  Cairo;  Maurice  Le- 
loir.  The  Recruit;  Josi  Villegas,  A  Dream  of  the  Arabian  Nights; 
Francisco  Domingo,  Halt  at  the  Inn;  Mariano  Fortuny,  Arab  Fan- 
tasia at  Tangiers;  Adolf  Schreyer,  Arabs  Retreating;  Jose  Villegas, 
A  Spanish  Christening;  Pierre  Edouard  Frh-e,  Street  in  Ecouen, 
Winter;  Eduardo  Vamacois,  The  King's  Favorite,  Emile  van  Marcke, 
Cows  in  a  Pool;  Alfred  Stevens,  The  Morning  Call;  Raymundo  de 
Madrazo,  A  Fete  DuriM  the  Carnival;  John  Linnell  (1792- 1882),  The 
Monarch  Oak;  Louis  Gallait,  The  Prisoner;  Alma-Tadema,  The  Pic- 
ture Gallery;  Thomas  Faed  (1826-1900),  Rest  by  the  Stilej  Sir  John 
Millais,  The  Bride  of  Lammermoor;  Lord  Frederick  Le%ghton,  An 
Odalisque;   Alma-Tadema,  The  Sculpture  Gallery. 

Alcove:  This  alcove  contains  about  thirty  exhibits,  chiefly  water 
colors,  and  for  the  most  part  of  minor  importance.  Note  however 
to  right  and  left  in  doorway  three  small  canvases  by  Meissonier: 
•Portrait  of  William  H.  Vanderbilt;   Smoker  Reading;  An  Artist  at  Work. 

North  Wall  continued:  Hugues  Merle,  Maternal  Love;  Meis- 
sonier, "An  Artist  and  his  Wife;  Ferdinand  Roybet,  A  Musical 
Party;  Jean  Lion  Girome,  "Reception  of  the  Prince  De  Conde  by 
Louis  XIV;  Meissonier,  The  Ordinance;  Meissonier,  *The  Arrival  at 
ahe  Chateau;  Thomas  Couture,  The  Ralist;  Jean  Francois  Millet, 
The  Shepherdess;  Thiodore  Rousseau,  Farm  on  the  Oise;  Coret,  Clas- 
sical Landscape;  Charles  Francois  Daubigny,  Landscape,  Evening; 
Jean  Frangois  Millet,  *The  Water  Carrier;  Alexander  Gabriel  De- 
camps, A  Bashi-Bazouk;  Diaz,  *Cupid's  Whisper;  Rousseau,  Edge  of 
a  Forest;  Decamps,  An  Italian  Family;  Millet,  The  Knitting  Lesson; 
Millet,  *The  Sower;  Rousseau,  Autumn,  River  Scene;  Corot,  Koad  near 
Paris;  Diaz,  Eastern  Bazaar;  Millet,  Hunting  in  Winter. 

West  Wall:  Jules  Dupri,  Shepherd  Boy;  Troy  on,  Group  of 
Cattle;  Charles  Emile  Jacque,  Sheep  Stable;  Diaz,  Blind  Man's  Buff. 

South  Wall:  Jules  Dupri  Midday;  Eugkne  Fromentin,  Arabs 
Watering  Horses;  Constant  Troy  on.  On  the  Road;  Rousseau,  Gorges 
D'Apremont,  Evening;  Diaz,  Boy  and  Dogs;  Fromentin,  Crossing  a 
Ford;  Thomas  Couture,  Volunteers  of  the  French  Revolution,  1789; 
Rousseau,  River  Scene;  Diaz,  The  Bathers;  Diaz,  Forest  of  Fontain- 
bleau;  Constant  Troyon,  Autumn  Wods  with  Cattle;  Eugene  Delacroix, 
Muley-abd-el-Rhamann;  Bouguereau,  *Going  to  the  Bath;  Jules  Dupre, 
Autuipn  Sunset;  Rousseau,  Landscape,  Morning;  Detaille,  Skirmishing 
near  Paris;  Jules  Lefebvre,  Mignon;  Henri  Leyes^  Lucas  Cranach 
taking  the  Portrait  of  Martin  Luther;  Rousseau,  Trees  by  a  Pool; 
Jules  DuprS,  River  Scene;  Girdme,  'The  Sword  Dance;  Alma-Tadema, 
Down  to  the  River;  Detaille,  *The  Arrest  of  an  Ambulance  Corps; 
Cahanel,  Pia  De  Tolomei;  Charles  Bargue,  The  Artist  and  his  Model; 
Bargue,  The  Almde;  Alfred  Stevens,  Ready  for  the  Fancy  Ball;  George 
H.  Bogert,  Ladies  of  the  First  Empire;  Bogert,  Des  Parisiennes; 
Florent  Willem^,  TJie  Dance,  La  Pavane;  Emil  van  Marcke,  Cattle 
Resting;  Johan  van  Kessel,  A  German  Village  Fete;  Rosa  Bonheur, 
Ready  for  the  Hunt;  Alphonse  de  Neuville,  *Le  Bourget;  Munkdcsy, 
•The  Two  Families;  Lud-juig  Knaus,  The  Road  to  Ruin. 

East  Wall:  Carl  von  Pettenkofen,  Ambulance  Wagon;  Ludvtng 
Knaus,    The    Rag    Baby;    Pettenkofen,    Hungarian    Volunteers;    Knaus, 


3i8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Female   Head;    Francisco   Domingo,   Card   flayers;    Domingo,   Interior 
of  a  Stable;   Walter  Florian,  A  Court  Fool. 

Continuing  through  door  at  W.  end,  we  enter  Room  B  17. 

Catharine  Lorillard  Wolfe  Collection  (Modern  European 

and   American    Schools). 

North  Wall:  Eugene  Delacroix  (i 799-1863),  The  Abduction  of 
Rebecca;    Fantin-Latour    (1836-1904),    Portrait   of   a   Lady. 

West  Wall:  Jules  Lefebre,  Graziclla;  Jehan  Georges  Vibert 
The  Startled  Confessor;  August  F.  A.  Schenck  (1828-1901),  Lost, 
Souvenir  of  Auvergne;  Constant  Troy  on  (i  810-1865),  Holland  Cattle; 
Jean  Jacques  Henner  (1829-1905),  *A  Bather;  Antoine  Vollon  (1833- 
1900),  A  Farm  Yard;  Jules  Breton,  Religious  Procession  in  Brittany; 
Alfred  Stevens  (1828- 1906),  The  Japanese  Robe;  Emil  van  Marcke, 
(1827-1890).  The  Mill;  Theodore  Rousseau,  Edge  of  the  Woods;  Dagnan- 
Bouveret  (b.  1852),  *The  Madonna  of  the  Rose;  Alexandre  Cabanel 
(1823-1889),  *Catherine  Lorillard  Wolfe;  Daniel  Huntington  (1816- 
1906),  John  David  Wolfe;  Diaz,  Edge  of  a  Forest;  Jean  Lion  GSrome 
(1824- 1904)*  Boy  of  the  Bischari  Tribe;  Dias  (1807- 1876),  Holy  Family. 

South  Wall:  Dias,  Study  of  Trees:  Jules  Dupri,  The  Hay 
Wagon;  Charles  Emile  J  cheque  (181 3-1 894),  The  Sheepfold;  Jules 
Dupre  (1811-1889),  The  Old  Oak;  Rousseau,  Landscape;  Charles 
Frangois  Daubigny  (1817-1878),  On  the  River  (Dise,  Evening;  Thomas 
Couture  (1815-1879),  Day  Dreams;  Rousseau  (1812-1867),  River 
Landscape;  Daubigny,  On  the  Seine,  Morning;  Constant  Troy  on,  Study 
of  a  White  Co\^;  Corot  (i  796-1875),  Ville  D'Avray;  Dias,  Landscape, 
Daubigny,    Boats   on    Shore. 

East  Wall:  Berne-Bellecour  (1829-19 10),  Soldier  in  the  Trenches; 
John   Lewis  Brown    (1829-1890),    Fox   Hunting. 

Continue  through  door  at  S.  W.  cor.  to  Room  B  18. 
Wolfe  Collection,  continued.  (British,  Dutch,  Flemish, 
French,  German,  Italian,  and  Spanish   Schools). 

North  Wall:  Eduardo  Zamacois  (i 842-1 871),  Sleeping  Hunter; 
Maurice  Leloir,  Opportunity  makes  the  Thief;  Raymundo  de  Madraso 
(b.  184 1),  Girls  at  a  Window;  Mariano  Fortuny  (1838- 1874),  Camels 
Reposing,  Tangiers;  Francisco  Domingo  (b.  1843),  Interior  with 
Figures;  Adolf  Schreyer  (1828-1899),  Abandoned,  Marshes  of  the 
Danube;  Atillio  Simonetti,  The  Amateur;  Meissonier,  The  Sign 
Painter;  Alberto  Pasini  (i 826-1 899),  Entrance  to  a  Mosque;  Simon^ 
etti.   The   Miniature;    Victor  Chavet    (1822-1906),    In   Full   Dress. 

West  Wall:  Anton  Setts  (1829-1900),  The  Discussion;  Martin 
Rico,  Canal  of  Venice;  Johann  Friedrich  Hennings  (1839- 1899),  Heidel- 
berg by  Moonlight;  Gustavo  Brion  (i 824-1 877),  Return  from  the 
Christening;  Johann  Wilhelm  Preyer  (1803-1889),  Grapes,  Plums, 
Nuts,  etc.;  Ludwig  Knaus,  Old  Woman  and  Cats;  Hans  Makart  (1840- 
1884),  The  Dream  after  the  Ball;  Knaus  (i 829-1 910),  The  Holy 
Family;  Oswald  Achenbach  (1827- 1905),  Near  Naples,  Moonrise; 
Munk&csy  (1844-1900),  *The  Pawnbroker's  Shop;  Adolf  Schreyer, 
Arabs  on  the  March;  Frans  von  Defregger  (b.  183s),  German  Peasant 
Girl;  Andreas  Achenbach  (1815-1910),  Sunset  after  a  Storm,  Coast 
of  Sicily;  Gabriel  Max  (b.  1840).  'The  Last  Token,  a  Christian  Mar- 
tyr; Pierre  Edouard-Frdre  (181 9-1 886),  Visit  of  a  Sister  of  Charity; 
Wilhelm  Riefstahl  (i  827-1 888),  A  Wedding  Procession  in  the 
Bavarian  Tyrol;  Carl  Theodore  von  Piloty  (1826-1886),  Parable 
of  the  Wise  and  Foolish  Virgins;  Frans  von  Lenbach  (1836-1904), 
Edwin  Emerson;  Florent  Wtllems  (i 823-1905),  Preparing  for  the 
Promenade. 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  319 

South  Wall:  Jacob  ^aris  (1837-1899),  Canal  in  Holland;  Adolf 
Wahlberg,  A  Day  in  October,  near  Waxholm,  Sweden;  P.  Wilson  Steer 
(b.  i860),  Richmond  Castle;  George  H.  Boughton,  A  Puritan  Girl; 
Christoffel  Bissckop  (1828- 1904),  The  Sunbeam;  Lord  Frederick 
Leighton,  Lachrymae;  Louis  Gallait  (1810-87),  The  Minstrel  Boy; 
Alfred  Wahlberg  (i  834-1 906),  Moonlight,  Port  of  Waxholm,  near 
Stockholm,   Sweden;   Cesar  De  Cock,  Landscape,  Spring;  Leighton,  Lucia. 

East  Wall:  Sir  John  E.  MUlais,  'Portia;  Frederick  J,  VaUz, 
Landscape;  Josi  Villegas,  Examining  Arms;  Bakker-Korff,  Bric-a-brac; 
Hughes  Merld  (1823-81),  Falling  Leaves;  Jules  Breton,  Peasant  Girl 
Knitting;  Charles  Bargue,  A  Bashi  Bazouk;  Felix  Ziem,  Inundation  of 
the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark's,  Venice;  Detaille,  Skirmish  between  Cossacks 
and  the  Imperial  Bodyguard;  Rosa  Bonheur,  A  Limier-Briquct  Hound; 
The  Same,  Weaning  the  Calves;  LSon  Lhermitte,  "Among  the  Lowly; 
Frank  de  Mesgrigny  ( 1 836-1 884 "i.  River  Scene;  Charles  Thiodore  Frkre, 
Cairo,  Evening;  Charles  Chaplin  (1825-1891),  Haidee;  Jean  Lion 
Girdme,  Prayer  in  the  Mosque;  of  Amrou,  Old  Cairo;  Ernest  Hibert 
(1817-1Q08),  A  Girl's  Head;  Frere,  Jerusalem  from  the  Environs;  P.  A. 
Cot  (183  7- 1 883),  The  Storm. 

The  door  in  the  N.  W.  cor.  opens  into 

Room  B  19.  (American,  Dutch,  Flemish,  French,  Ger- 
man, Italian  and  Spanish  Schools). 

North  Wall:  Fortuny,  A  Spanish  Lady;  Josef  Israels  (1824- 
191 1 ),  'The  Bashful  Suitor;  Julien  De  Vriendt  (b.  1842),  A  Chapel 
Scene;  Old  Antwerp;  Anton  Mauve,  Changing  Pasture;  Israels,  Ex- 
pectation; Guillaume  Koller  (i 829-1 884),  Hugo  Van  Der  Goes  painting 
the  Portrait  of  Mary  of  Burgundy;  Anton  Mauve,  Return  to  the  Fold; 
Carl  Marr  (b.  1858),  *Gossip;  Antonio  Mancini  (b.   1852),  Circus  Boy. 

West  Wall:  Joaquin  S  or o  I  la  y  Bastida,  'After  the  Bath;  The 
Same,  Senora  De  Sorolla  in  Black. 

South  Wall:  Ignacio  Zuloaga  (b.  1870),  *Mlle.  Lucienne  Breval 
as  Carmen;  Franz  von  Lenbach,  Portrait  of  a  Child;  Hugo  Van  Haber- 
mann.  In  the  Studio;  Anton  Mauve,  Twilight;  Hans  Thoma  (b.  1839), 
At  Lake  of  Garda;  Sorolla  (b.  1863),  Swimmers;  Habermann  (b.  1849), 
Portrait  of  a  Lady;  WUhelm  Trubner,  Landscape;  William  Orpen  (b. 
1878),  Leading  the  Life  in  the  West;  Augustus  Edwin  John  (b.  1879), 
The  Way  Down  to  the  Sea. 

East  Wall:  Emanuel  Leutse  (181 6-1 868),  'Washington  Crossing 
the   Delaware. 

Through  the  N.  W.  door,  we  enter  the  Southwest  Stair- 
way (Wolfe  Collection,  concluded)  : 

North  Wall:  Charles  Marichal  (1825- 1877),  Evening  in  Alsace; 
Eugene  Verboeckhoven  (1799-1881),  Interior  of  a  Stable  with  Sheep 
and  Poultry;  Gustave  Jacquet  (1846-1909),  Female  Head;  Albert  Neu- 
huys  (1844-19 14),  Dutch  Interior  with  Figures;  Emilie  Freyer  (b. 
1849),  Fruit,  Flowers,  etc.;  Frederik  Hendrik  Kaemerer  (1839-1902), 
Study  of  a  Girl's  Head;  Edouard  Joseph  Stevens  (1822-1892),  Surprise; 
Pierre  Louis  Joseph  de  Coninck  ,(1828-1910),  Italian  Children  at  a 
Well;  Benjamin  Eugene  Fichel,  Awaiting  an  Audience. 

West  Wall:  Jehan  Georges  Vibert,  Palm  Sunday  in  Spain;  Vibert 
(1840-1902),  The  First  Babe;  Attilio  Simonetti,  The  Rendezvous; 
Alexandre  Louis  Leloir,  In  his  Cups;  Gustave  Dore  (1833-1883),  The 
Retreat  from  Moscow;  William  T.  Richards,  A  Rocky  Coast;  Pierre 
Charles    Comte    (1823-1895),    Lady    at    Her    Toilet;    Alexandre    Louis 


320  RIDER^S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Leloir,  Wandering  Minstrel;  Old  Nuremberg;  Luis  Falero   (1851-1896), 
•Twin  Stars;  Detaille,  French  Cuirassiers. 

South  Wall:  Alexandre  Cabanel,  The  Shulamite;  Louis  Eugene 
Lambert  (1825-1900),  Cat  and  Kittens;  Arthur  Georg  von  Ramberg 
( 1 819-1875),  The  Meeting  on  the  Lake;  Charles  Marchal,  Morning  in 
Alsace;  Gustaf  Wappers  (1803-1874),  C)onfidences;  Carl  Graeb  (i8i6- 
1884),  Interior  of  the  Cathedral  of  Freiburg,  Germany;  Jean  Baptiste 
Jules  Thayer  (18^4-1908),  Ribbon  Peddler;  Barend  Cornelius  Kock- 
koek,  Sunset  on  the  Rhine. 

East  Wall:  Leon  Glaise  (b.  1842),  Before  the  Mirror;  Eleonore 
Escallier,  Chrysanthemums;  Victor  Leciaire  (i 830-1 885),  Apple  Blos- 
soms in  a  Vase;  Berne-Bellecour,  The  Intended;  Wilhelm  von  Kaut- 
bach  ( 1 905-1 874),  Crusaders  Before  Jerusalem;  Charles  Edouard  Delort 
(1841-1895),  The  Casque;  Alexander  Bida  (1813-1895),  Massacre  of 
the  Mamdukes;  Auguste  Toulmouche  (1829-1890),  Homage  to  Beauty; 
Koekkoek  (1803-1862),  Winter  Landscape;  Holland;  Louis  Eugene 
Lami  (1800- 1.890),  Interior  of  a  Museum;  Blaise  Desgoffe  (i 830-1901), 
Objects  of  Art;  Louis  Haghe  (1806-1885),  Guard-room;  The  Toast; 
Maurice  Leloir  (b.  1853),  The  Drink  of  Milk;  Louis  Devedeux  (1820- 
1875),  The  Pride  of  the  Harem;  Escallier,  A  Basket  of  Flowers;  Prio 
J  oris  (b.  1843),  Italian  Courtyard  and  Figures;   Vibert,  The  Reprimand. 

Through  the  N.  door  we  reach 
Room  A  20.    (Amefican  School). 

North  Wall:  Jerome  Myers  (b.  1867),  The  Night  Mission; 
Albert  P.  Ryder  (b.  1847),  The  Curfew  Hour;  Whistler,  ♦Arrange- 
ment in  Flesh  Color  and  Black;  Theodore  Duret;  Ryder,  The  Smug- 
glers' Cave;  Whistler,  Nocturne  in  Green  and  (jold;  Cremorne  Gar- 
dens, London,  at  Night. 

West  Wall:  Robert  MacCameron  (i 866-1912),  The  Daughter's 
Return;  Homer  D.  Martin  (1836-1897),  The  White  Mountains;  Adams 
and  Jefferson;  S.  Seymour  Thomas  (b.  1868),  Mrs.  St  Seymour 
Thomas;  Frederick  J.  Waugh,  The  Great  Deep;  Martin,  Harp  of  the 
Winds,  A  View  on  the  Seine;  George  W.  Bellows  (b.  1882),  Up  the 
Hudson;  Thomas  Alexander  Harrison  (b.  1853),  Castles  in  Spain; 
Sargent,  William  M.  Chase;  Henry  W.  Ranger,  Highbridge,  New 
York;  Gardner  Seymour,  The  Opalescent  River;  New  England;  Weir, 
The  Red  Bridge;  Chase,  Portrait  of  a  Lady;  Gari  Melchers  (b.  i860). 
Madonna;  Leonard  Ochtman  (b.   1854),  Winter  Light. 

South  Wall:  Edward  Martin  Taber  (1863- 1896)  Mount  Mans- 
field in  Winter;  Theodore  Robinson  (1852-1896),  The  Old  Mill;  Fred- 
erick Carl  Frieske  (b.  1874),  The  Toilet;  Childe  Hassam,  Golden 
Afternoon,  Oregon;  Sargent,  The  Hermit;  Eduard  J.  Steichen  (b. 
1879),  Nocturne;  Temple  of  Love;  Alfred  Q.  Collins  (1855-1903),  The 
Artist's  Wife;    Walter  Gay,  Green  Salon. 

East  Wall:  Charlotte  B.  Coman  (b.  1833),  Clearing  Off;  Kenyan 
Cox  (b.  1856),  'Augustus  Saiht  Gaudens;  Sargent,  Padre  Sebastiano; 
Homer  (1836-19 10),  The  Gulf  Streamy  Whistler,  Arrangement  in 
Black,  No.  3,  Sir  Henry  Irving  as  Phihp  II  of  Soaln;  Bmil  Carlsen 
(b.  1853),  Still  Life;  Whistler,  Cremorne  Gardens,  No.  2;  William  M, 
Chase  (h.  1849),  Portrait  of  a  Lady  in  Black;  Cox,  The  Harp  Player; 
Homer,   Shooting  the   Rapids;    Sagufenay  River. 

The  door  in  the  E.  wall  leads  to 
Room  A  21.     (Frefnch  School.) 

Northeast  Door:  Honori  Daumier,  The  Lawyers;  Daumier  (1808- 
1879),  Don  Quixote;   Constant  Troy  on.   Shepherd  with   Sheep. 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  321    • 

North  Wall:  Paul  Creatine  (1839- 1906),  The  Poorhouse  on  the 
Hill;  Puvis  de  Ckavanncs,  St.  Genevieve  as  a  Child,  distinguished  by 
St.  Germain  d'Auxcrrc,  as  marked  for  high  Distinction;  Claude  Monet, 
Valley  of  the  Ncrvia. 

Southeast  Door:  Matthys  Maris  (i 839-1 872),  Reverie;  Daubigny, 
Landscape  with  Storks;  Corot,  Environs  of  Paris. 

West  Wall:  Puvis  de  Chavannes,  *The  River;  Claude  Monet, 
•Rouen  Cathedral,  Sunlight;  Edouard  Manet,  The  Funeral;  Puvis  de 
Chavannes,  Beheading  ot  Saint  John  the  Baptist;  The  Same,  *The 
Cider;  The  Same,  Sleep;  The  Same,  Child  Gathering  Apples;  Manet, 
•Woman  with  a  Parrot;  Cizanne,  The  Bouquet  of  Flowers;  Manet,  The 
Dead  Christ  with  Angels;  Cizanne,  Still  Life;  Manet,  *Boy  with  a 
Sword;  Corot,  *A  Lane  through  the  Trees;  Adolphe  Monticelli  (1824- 
idfe6),  Court  Ladies;  Corot.  *Souvenir  of  Normandy;  Gustave  Courbet, 
Woman  with  a  Parrot;  Monticelli,  The  Court  of  the  Princess;  Rous- 
seau, Path  among  the  rocks;    Corot,   'The   Ferryman. 

South  Wall:  Diaa,  A  Clearing  in  the  Forest  of  Fontainebleau ; 
Courbet,  Snow  Scene;  Jules  Bastien-Lepage  (1848- 1884")  *Joan  of-  Arc; 
Rousseau,   Meadow  bordered  by  Trees;   Daubigny,   Banks  of  the  Oise. 

EoLSt  Wall:  Corot,  A  River  Scene;  Daubigny,  Evening;  Lher- 
mitte  (b.  1844),  'The  Vintage;  Rosa  Bonheur,  The  Old  Monarch; 
Meissonier  (1815-1891).  **Friedland,  1807;  Rosa  Bonheur,  ••The  Horse 
Fair;  Cabanel,  Queen  Vashti  refuses  to  come  at  the  Command  of  King 
Ahasuerus;  Detaille,  **The  Defence  of  Champigny;  Pierre  Auguste 
Renoir  (b.   1841),  'Mme.  Charpentier  and  her  Children. 

Gallery  23,  which  we  enter  from  the  N.  W.  door  in  R.  12, 
or  from  N.  E.  door  of  R.  21,  contains  metal  work.  This  gal- 
lery overlooks  the  Architectural  Court  (p.  311).  Gallery  22 
(entered  from  the  S.  W.  door  of  R.  12  or  the  S.  E.  door  of 
R.  21)  contains  portraits  and  memorials  of  Washington, 
Franklin  and  Lafayette  (including  earliest  known  portrait  of 
Washington,  a  miniature),  American  silver,  and  some  bronze. 

From  R.  21  continue  through  N.  door  to  Room  24  (British 
and  French  Schools). 

North  Wall:  Grenlee,  Study  of  a  Girl's  Head;  Pierre  Prud'hon, 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin;  Thomas  Lawrence,  Lady  Elizabeth  Wynd-  . 
ham;  Noel  N.  Coy  pel,  Venus  and  Sea  Nymphs:  Nicolas  Poussin,  Land- 
scape; School  of  Boucher,  The  Rescue  of  Arion  from  the  Waves; 
Jean  Marc  Nattier,  Princess  de  Conde  as  Diana;  Frangois  H.  Drouais, 
Portrait  of  Emperor  Joseph  II  of  Austria;  Caspar d  Dughet,  Landscape 
with  Figures;  Nicolas  De  Langillierre,  Marie  Margarite  Lambert  De 
Thorigny;  School  of  Le  Nain,  Mendicants;  School  of  Poussin,  Mytho- 
logical Subject;  Jean  B,  S.  Chardin,  Preparation  for  a  Breakfast; 
Francis  Wheatley,  View  in  Wales;  Gainsborough,  Portrait  of  Artist's 
Daughter. 

West  Wall:  Reynolds,  Sir  Edward  Hughes;  John  Hoppner,  Mrs. 
Bache;  Reynolds,  Mrs.  Baldwin;  Joseph  M.  W.  Turner,  The  Whale 
Ship;  John  O pie,  hady  Hamilton;  Reynolds,  Lady  Crewe;  Charles  H. 
Shannon  (b.  1865),  Lilah  McCarthy  as  "Dona  Ana"  in  Shaw's  "Man 
and  Superman";  Richard  P.  Bonington  (i 801 -1825),  Sea  Coast;  Rey- 
nolds, Georgiana  Augusta  Frederick  Elliott;  Gainsborough,  Portrait  of 
a  Man;  George  Romney,  The  Hon.  Mrs.  Tickell;  /.  M.  W.  Turner,  The 
Grand  Canal,  Venice;  Henry  R.  Morland,  Miss  Rich  Building  a 
House  of  Cards;  Romney  (1734-1802),  Mrs.  Fitzherbert. 

South  Wall:  John  Hoppner,  Mrs.  Gardiner  and  her  Children; 
Gainsborough,  A  Child  with  a  Cat;  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  John  Julius 


322  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Angerstein;  /.  M.  W,  Turner,  Saltash;  Reynolds,  Hon.  Henry  Fane 
with  his  Guardians,  Inigo  Jones  and  Charles  Blair;  Sir  Henry  Raeburn, 
Dr.  Joseph  Black;  J.  M,  W.  Turner,  The  Fountain  of  Indolence;  SW 
William  Beechey    (1753-1839),   H.   R.    H.   The  Duke  of   York. 

East  Wall:  Sir  Martin  A,  Shee  (1769-1850),  Daniel  O'Conncll; 
Francis  Wheatley,  Taking  Home  the  Bride;  Patrick  Nasmylh,  At  Pen- 
hurst,  Kent;  George  Frederick  Watts  (181 7-1904),  Ariadne  in  Naxos; 
John  Constable,  Tottenham  Church;  Sir  Peter  i^eiy,  Nell  Gwynn;  Sir 
Thomas  Lawrence,  Rev.  William  Pennicott;  Richard  Wilson,  View  on 
the  Arno;  John  Crome,  Hautbois  Common;  John  Opie,  Portrait  of  a 
Boy;  George  Romney,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  James  Stark,  The  Mill; 
George  Morland,  Country;  Richard  P.  Bonington,  Mantes  on  the  Seine; 
William  Etty  (i 787-1 849),  The  Three  Graces;  Joseph  Silfrede  Duples^, 
Benjamin  Franklin;   George  Morland,  Town;  Jonn  Crome,  A  Roadway. 

At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  R.  24  a  door  leads  to  the 

Northwest  Stairway:  George  Inness,  Pine  Grove  of  the  Barberini 
Villa,  Albano,  Italy;  William  T.  Bannat  (b.  1853),  A  Quartette;  Robert 
F.  Blum  (185 7- 1 903),  The  Ameya;  Henry  M osier  (1841),  A  Wedding 
Feast  in  Brittany. 

Recrossing  R.  24,  we  reach,  through  N.  doorway, 

Room  25.  Sketches  and  Water  Colors  (Subject  to  fre- 
quent changes). 

North  Wall:  Drawings  by  Charles. S.  Keenc;  Sketches  by  H.  B. 
Barbazon;   The   Laundress,   by  Degas. 

West  Wall:  Various  Studies  by  Kenyon  Cox,  Jerome  Myers, 
Whistler  and  Alfred  Stevens;  Ten  Water  Colors  by  Winslotv  Homer 
(Sloop,  Bermuda;  Tornado,  Bahamas;  Flower  Garden,  Bermuda;  Shore 
and  Surf,  Nassau;  Palm  Tree,  Nassau;  Taking  on  wet  Provisions;  A 
Wall,  Nassau;  The  Pioneer;  Fishing  Boats,  Key  West:  The  Bather); 
Various  Studies  by  Puvis  de  Chavannes  and  others;  Convalescent  by 
Kenyon  Cox. 

South  Wall:  Puris^  de  Chavannes.  *The  Balloon;  The  Same,  The 
Carrier  Pigeon. 

East  Wall:  Studies  by  Burne-Jones,  Alphonse  Legros  and  Augus- 
tus John;  Ten  Water  Colors  by  Sargent:  (Idle  Sails;  Mountain 
Stream;  Spanish  Fountain;  Giudecca;  Escutcheon  of  Charles  V;  In  the 
Generalife;  Tyrolese  Crucifix;  Venetian  Canal;  Boats;  Sirmione) ; 
Studies  by  Mauru:e  Sterne,  Henri  Matise,  Jean  Veber  and  others. 

Return  to  Room  24  and  through  door  in  N.  W.  cor.  enter 
Room  C  26.     (Italian  School). 

North  Wall:  Flemish  Scho-ol,  Portrait  of  a  Man;  Adrian  de  Vries, 
A  Dutch  Gentleman;  Jan  van  Goyan,  Panoramic  View  of  the  Environs 
of  Haarlem;  Nicolaes  Maes,  Admiral  Jacob  Binkes;  Jan  z'an  Goyen 
(1596-1656),  The  Moerdyck;  Aert  de  Gelder  (1645-1727),  Portrait  of  a 
Man;  Rembrandt,  'Portrait  of  a  Man;  Simon  de  Vlieger  (1601-1653), 
Calm  Sea;  Nicolaes  Maes,  The  Betrothed  of  Admiral  Binkes;  Aert  van 
der  Neer,  The  Farrier;  Franz  Hals  (1854-1666),  The  Smoker;  Pieter 
Roestraten  (i 630-1 698),  The  Old  Rat  comes  to  the  Trap  at  Last;  Jan 
Davidsz  De  Heem  (i 606-1 683),  Still  Life;  Jan  Bruegel,  The  Elder, 
The  Windmill. 

West  Wall:  Samuel  van  Hoogstraten  (1627-1678),  Portrait  of  a 
Lady  and  a  Gentleman;  Bartholomeus  van  der  Heist,  Jean  Van  Male; 
Salomon  van  Ruysdael,  A  Country  Road;  The  Same,  Haarlem,  Holland; 
Frans  Hals,  Thel'  Younger  .(161 7-1623),  "Hille  Babbe;  Salomon  van 
Ruysdael   (1600-1670),  Drawing  the  Eel;   Philips  Koninck,  Landscape; 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  ^323 

Rembrandt,  *A  Young  Painter;  David  Ryckaert  III  (1612-1661),  Farm- 
house; Adriaen  van  Cstade  (1610-1685),  The  Fiddler;  Rembrandt,  Man 
with  a  Beard;  Karel  van  Moor  (1656-1738),  A  Bursomaster  of  Leyden 
and  his  Wife;  Jan  van  Goyen,  A  View  of  Rhenen;  Rembrandt,  Portrait 
of  a  Young  Woman;  Bartholomeue  van  der  Heist,  The  Musician. 

Room  C  27.    (Flemish  School.) 

North  Wall:     Rubens,  Wolf  and  Fox  Hunt. 

West  Wall:     Pieter  Bruegel,   The  Younger  (1568-1625),  Gamblers 

gluarrelins;  David  Teniers,  The  Younger  (1610-1690),  Temptation  of 
aint  Antnony;  Comelis  de  Vos,  The  Elder  (i  585-1651),  Mother  and 
Children;  Jan  Fyt  (1611-1 66 1),  Dead  Game;  Rubens,  *The  Holy  Family; 
Jan  Fyt,  Dead  liare  and  Birds;  Van  Dyck,  ^Portrait  of  a  Lady;  Jan 
Fyt,  Dead  Partridges;  Jakob  van  Oost,  the  Elder  (i6oo-i67x).  Portrait 
of  a  Man. 

South  Wall:  Jan  Breughel,  The  Hill;  The  Same,  A  Flemish  Vil- 
lage; Van  Dyck,  Siint  Martha  interceding  with  God  for  a  Cessation  of 
the  Plague  at  Tarascon;  The  Same,  Neptune;  Rubens,  Pyramus  and 
Thisbe. 

East  Wall:  Jacob  Jordaens,  Sketch  from  Sacred  History;  Pieter 
Neejfs,  The  Younger,  Interior  of  a  Church;  Comelis  de  Vos  (1585-1651), 
Portrait  of  a  Young  Lady;  Tenters,  Landscape;  Rubens,  Cambyse's  Pun- 
ishment of  an  unjust  Judge;  Jacob  Jordaens,  The  Philosophers — ^Demo- 
critus  and  Herachtus;  Teniers,  The  Good  Samaritan;  The  Same,  Land- 
scape; Rubens,  Susanna  and  the  Elders;  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  Man. 

Continue  through  E.  door  to 
Room  C  a8.     (Spanish  School.) 

North  Wall:  *Goya,  Don  Tiburcio  Perez;  Tintoretto,  Miracle  of 
the  Loaves  and  Fishes;  Goya,  *Marie  Louise,  Princess  of  Parma. 

West  Wall:  Velaeques,  Count  Olivares;  Francisco  de  Zurbaran 
(1598-1662),  St.  Michael,  The  Archangel;  Velasquez,  Marianna  of 
Austria,  Queen  of  Spain. 

South  Wall:  Velazquee,  Baltasar  Carlos;  Josi  Francisco  Go^a 
( 1 746-1 828),  A  Jewess  of  Tangiers;  Estiban  BartolomS  Murillo,  *Samt 
John  the  Evangelist;  Goya,  The  Trial;  A  Scene  of  Sorcery;  VetasqutM, 
Portrait  of  Artist. 

East  Wall:  Goya,  Don  Sebastian  Martinez;  El  Greco  (i 548-1 614), 
The  Nativity;  Jusepe  de  Ribera   (1588-1652),  *Lucretia. 

Pass  through  E.  door  to 
Room  C  29.     (Italian  School.) 

North  Wall:  Giovanni  Battista  Moroni  (i  525-1 578),  Portrait  of  a 
Man;  Correggio,  Four  Saints;  Tintoretto,  Two  Brothers. 

West  Wall:  School  of  Tintoretto,  Last  Supper;  Tiepolo  (x696- 
ijr7o),  Crowning  with  Thorns;  Luca  Giordano  (1632-1703),  Nativity; 
Francesco  Guardi  (1712-1793),  Fete  on  Grand  Canal,  Venicej  Giovanni 
Paolo  Pannini  (i 691 -1768),  Cardinal  Polignac  visiting  the  interior  of 
St.  Peter's,  Rome. 

South  Wall:  CaHo  Maratta  (1625-1713),  Portrait  of  Pope  Clement 
IX;  Guardi,  The  Rialto,  Venice;  Bassana  (1510-1592),  Lazarua  and  the 
Rich  Man;  Giotxinni  Savoldo  (i 480-1 548),  St.  Mathew  and  the  Angel; 
Guardi,  Santa  Maria  della  Salute,  Venice. 

East  Wall:  Carlo  Caliari  (1570-1596),  Allegorical  Figures:  Sasso- 
ferrato  (i 605-1 685),  Madonna;  Tiepolo,  The  sacrifice  of  Abraham; 
Canaletto  (1697- 1768),  Scene  in  Venice;  The  PiazzetU;  Tiepolo,  Alle- 
gorical Sketch  for  a  Ceiling. 


324  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  E.  door  leads  to 

Room  C  30.     (Italian  School.) 

North  Wall:  Sebastiano  Dei  Piombo  (1485-1547),  Christophef  Co- 
lumbus; FHipjbo  Lippi,  Descent  from  the  Cross;  Giovanni  Bcfttista 
(1460-15 17),  St.  Roch,  St.  Anthony  and  St.  Lucy;  Vittore  Carpaccio 
(i45S-i527)»  Meditation  on  the  Passion;  Perugino  (1446-1523),  The 
Resurrection;  Bronsino  (1502-1572),  Cosimo  De  Medici. 

West  Wall:  Carlo  Cri/velli  (1430-1493),  St.  George;  Lorenzo  di 
Credi  (1459-1537).  Madonna  Adoring  the  Child;  Botticelli  (1447-1510), 
•Three  Miracles  of  Saint  Zenobius;  Carlo  Crivelli,  St.  Dominic;  Am- 
brogio  de  Predis,  Girl  with  Cherries. 

South  Wall:  Francesco  Torbido  (1486-1546),  Portrait  of  a  Man; 
Bramantino,  Virgin  and  Child;  Morette  Da  Brescia,  The  Entombment; 
Morette  Da  Brescia  (1498-1554),  Christ  in  the  Desert;  Lorenzo  Lotto 
(1480-15  5 6),  Portrait  of  a  Young  Man. 

East  Wall :  Carlo  Crivello,  Pieta:  Fiorenzo  Di  Lorenzo,  The  Na- 
tivity; Garofah,  St.  Nicholas  asked  to^  Revive  Dead  Child;  Pinturecchio , 
Madonna  and  Child j  Giovanni  Battista  Moroni.  *The  Prioress;  Pin- 
turecchio, Ave  Gratia  Plena;  Francesco  Bollicini  (1446-1497),  Three 
Predella  Panels:  i.  The  Burial  of  St.  Zenobius,  2.  The  Marriage  of 
the  Virarin,  3.  Tobias  and  the  Angels;  Sodoma  (1477-1549),  Mars  and 
Venus  Trapped  by  Vulcan;  Garofalo,  St.  Nicholas  Reviving  the  Birds; 
Jean  Ferdinand  Monchablon,  Madonna  and  Child. 

Continue  through  door  on  E.  to 
Room  C  31.     (Italian  School.) 

North  Wall:  Antonio  Pollaiuolo,  Saint  Christopher  and  the  In- 
fant Christ. 

West  Wall:  Pietro  di  Domenico  di  Pietro  (1457-1501),  Virgin 
and  Child,  Saint  Peter  and  Saint  Paul;  Piero  Di  Cosimo,  Return  from 
the  Hunt;  Giovanni  Di  Paolo,  Paradise;  Simone  Martini  (i 283-1 344), 
Saint  Paul;  Piero  Di  Cosimo  (1462-152 1),  Huntings  Scene;  Bicci  Di 
Lorenzo  (1373-1452),  Miracle  of  St.  Nicholas  of  Ban. 

South  Wall:  Italian  School,  St.  Lucy  Resisting  Efforts  to  move 
her;  Pietro  Di  Domenico  Da  Montepulciano,  Madonna  and  Child  En- 
throned with  Angels;  Italian  School,  St.  Lucy  Accused  of  Christianity; 
The  Same,  The  Taking  of  a  City;  The  Same,  St.  Lucy  giving  Alms; 
Lorenzo  II  Monaco  (13 70- 1425),  Madonna  and  Child;  Italian  School, 
St.  Lucy  at  the  Shrine  of  St.  Agatha;  Sano  di  Pietro  di  Menico,  King 
Solomon  and  the  Queen  of  Sheba. 

East  Wall:  Matteo  l)i  Giovanni  (1430-1495),  Legend  of  Cloelia; 
Benvenuto  Di  Giovanni  (1436-15 17),  Assumption  of  the  Virgin. 

Room  C  32,  on  S.,  contains  collections  *of  various  objects 
of  art.  The  collection  of  paintings  is  continued,  through  E. 
door,  in 

Room  C  33.     (Italian  School.) 

North  Wall:  Italian  School,  St.  Giles;  Mission  of  the  Apostles; 
Expulsion  of  the  Devils  from  Heaven;  Giotto.  The  Epiphany;  Taddeo 
Gaddi  (1300-1366),  Madonna  and  Child  with  Saints;  Pietro  Lorenzetti, 
Saint  Catherine;  Giovanni  Da  Milano,  Virgin  arid  Child  with  Donors. 

West  Wall:  School  of  Pesellino,  Scenes. from  the  story  of  the  Argo- 
nauts; Bartolo  Di  Fredi  (1330-1410),^  Crucifixion;  Gozzoli  (1420-1498), 
Saint  Peter,  Saint  Paul;  Saint  Zenobius  and  Saint  Benedict;  School  of 
pesellino.  Scenes  from  the  story  of  the  Argonauts. 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  325 

South  Wall:  Giotto,  Scenes  from  Holy  Subjects;  Giambono,  Christ 
Rising  from  the  Tomb;  Luis  Borrassa,  Altarpiece  dedicated  to  Saint 
Andrew;  Sano  di  Pietro  di  Menico  (1406-1481),  Madonna  and  Child; 
Italian  School,  The  Life  of  Christ. 

East  Wall:  Italian  School.  Madonna  and  Child;  Pesellino  (1422- 
1457) >  Madonna  with  St.  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  John  the  Apostle; 
Italian  School,  isth  Century,  St.  Michael  and  the  Dragon;  Jaime 
Vergos,  II,  Altarpiece;  Six  Scenes  from  the  Passion;  Italian  ScIumI, 
A  Man  and  a  Woman  at  a  Casement. 

South  Wall:  Mabuse,  Madonna  and  Child:  Conrad  Faber,  Por- 
trait of  a  Man;  Bruges  Master  of  the  Legend  of  Saint  Ursula,  Madonna 
and  Child;  Ulrich  Apt,  The  Elder  (1430-1479),  Portrait  of  a  Man  and 
his  Wife;  Flemish  School,  Man  with  a  Book;  Jan  Van  Eyck,  Thomas 
A  Becket;  Holbein,  The  Younger,  Erasmus;  IVolf  Traut,  Girl  Making  a 
Garland  (Framed  To^fether) ;  Roger  van  der  Weyden  (1400-1464),  The 
Annunciation;  Corneille,  Portrait  of  a  Man;  The  Same,  Jean,  Sire.Dc 
Rieux,  (Framed  Together);  Bemhard  Strigel  (1461-1528),  Portrait  of 
a  German  Lady;  Memling,  Portriiit  of  a  Man;  Marten  van  Heemskerck 
(r498-iS74),  Jacob  Willemz  Van  Veen. 

East  Wall:  Adrian  Isenbrant,  Ecce  Homo — Mater  Dolorosa;  Cor- 
nelis  Engelbrechtsen  (1468- 1533),  Crucifixion;  Cranach,  Portrait  of  a 
Man;  Holbein,  The  Younger  (1497-1543),  Portrait  of  a  Man;  Holbein, 
The  Younger,  Archbishop  Cranmer. 

The  next  five  rooms,  35-39,  contain  the  Altman  Collec- 
tions, including  porcelains,  furniture,  objects  of  art  and 
paintings.    Through  the  E.  door  of  Room  34,  we  enter 

Room  C  34.    (Flemish,  German  Schools.) 

North  Wall:  Petrus  Cristus,  The  Deposition  from  the  Cross;  Jan 
Van  Eyck  (1380-1440),  Virgin  and  Child;  Maitre  De  FlSmalle,  Virgin 
and  Child  with  Angels;  Lucas  Van  Ley  den,  Joseph  Expounding  Pha- 
raoh's Dream;  Gerard  David  (i 460-1 523),  The  Crucifixion;  Jan  Gos- 
saert  Van  M(U)use  (1470-1541),  Adam  and  Eve;  School  of  David,  Ma- 
donna Feeding  the  Child. 

West  Wall:  Cranach,  The  Elder,  Judith  with  th?  Head  of  Holo- 
f  ernes;  Hieronymus  Bosch  (1462-1516),  Adoration  of  the  Kings; 
Jacques  Daret,  The  Nativity  of  Our  Lord;  Flemish  School^  The  Last 
Supper;  The-  Falling  of  Manna;  Melchizedek  and  Abraham;  Ludger 
torn  Ring,  The  Yiounger  (i 530-1 583),  Christ  Blessing;  Surrounded  by 
Donor  and  Family;  David,  Repose  in  Egypt;  Barthel  Behan  (i 502-1 540), 
Portrait  of  a  Man;  Flemish  School,  Scenes  from  the  Life  of  a  Saint. 

Gallery  C  35  (Altman  Room  No.  4) : 

This  room  contains,  among  other  objects  of  art,  a  fine  tapestry, 
Vertumnus  and  Pomona,  by  Frangois  Boucher,  Beauvais,  France 
(1757). 

The  East  door  leads  into 

Gallery  C  36  (Altman  Room  No.  3)  : 

This  room  contains  14  wall  cases  and  6  center  cases  of  Chinese 
Porcelains,  chiefly  of  the  following  periods:  K'ang-Hsi,  1662-1 722; 
Ch'eng-Hwa,    1465-87;   and   Ch'ien-Lung,   1736-95. 

Pass  through  the  South  door  into 
♦Gallery  C37    (Altman  Room  No.   i)  : 

North  Wall:     Nos.   1-5  by  Rembrandt:  i.  *01d  Woman  cutting  her 


326  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Nails;  a.  Woman  with  a.  Pink;  3.  Pilate  washing  his  Hands;  4.   Man 
with  a  Magnifying  Glass;  5.  Old  Lady  in  an  Arm-chair. 

West  Wall:  7  (sic).  Johannes  Vermeer  (1632-75),  Young  Girl 
asleep;  6.  Rembrandt,  Rembrandt's  Son,  Titus;  8.  Jacob  van  Ruysdael, 
Wheatfields;  9.  Rembrandt,  Toilet  of  Bathsheba,  after  the  bath;  10. 
Rembrandt,  Young  Man  known  as  "The  Auctioneer." 

South  Wall:  11.  Rembrandt,  A  Young  Dutch  Woman;  12.  Gerard 
Terborck,  Lady  playing  the  Theorbo;  13.  Rembrandt,  Hendrickje  Stof- 
fels;  14.  Pieter  de  Hooch,  Interior  with  a  Young  Couple;  15.  Aetbert 
Cuyp,  Young  Herdsman  with  Cows;  16.  Nicholas  Maes,  Young  Girl 
peelin|[  Apples;  17.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  18.  Gerard  Dou, 
Portrait  of  the  Artist;   19.  Frans  Hals^  Youth  with  Mandolin. 

East  Wall:  20.  Rembrandt,  Man  with  Steel  Gorget;  21.  Franz 
Hals,  A  Merry  Company;  22.  Hobbema,  Entrance  to  a  Village;  23. 
Fram  Hals,  Yonker  Ramp  and  Sweetheart;  34.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of 
a  Man. 

The  W.  door  leads  to 

Gallery  C  38  (Altman  Room  No.  5)  : 

This  room  contains  tapestries,  oriental  rugs,  old.  furni- 
ture and  a  number  of  sculptures  and  bas-reliefs  in  marble, 
bronze,  terracotta  and  stucco,  chiefly  of  the  Mediaeval  Italian 
School. 

West  Wall:  Mino  da  Fiesole  (1430-84),  Portrait  of  a  priest  (mar- 
ble bust);  Germain  Pilon  (1535-90),  portrait  bust  of  Charles  IX  (mar- 
ble) ;  School  of  Verrocchio,  bust  of  a  Youth  (marble) ;  Venetian  School, 
XVIth  Century,  two  bronze  Andirons  with  statuettes  of  Venus  and 
Mars;  Antonio  Rossallino  (1427-78),  Julius  Caesar  (marble  bust); 
Benedetto  da  Majano   (1442-97),  The  Virgin   (painted  terracotta). 

South  Wall:  Jacopo  Sansovino  (1477-1 570),  Charity  (terracotta); 
Luca  detla  Rabbia  (i  399-1482),  Madonna  and  Child  (enameled  terra- 
cotta); Mino  da  Fiesole,  YovXYiixxX  St.  John  (marble). 

East  Wall:  Gioz'anni  Bologna  (i 524-1 608),  Virtue  overcoming 
Vice  (marble);  Alessandro  Vittorio  (1525-1608),  War  (bronze);  The 
Same,  Peace;  Antonio  Rossallino,  Madonna  and  Child;  Donatelto  (1386- 
1466),  Virgin  and  Child  (terracotta);  C.  G.  Allegrain  (17*0-95),  Nep- 
tune;   The  Same,  Amphitrite. 

North  Wall:  Donatello,  Infant  St.  John  (stucco);  Ancient  Roman 
Portrait  Bust. 

The  room  also  contains  a  portrait  of  Benjamin  Altman,  by  Ellen 
Emmet  Rand,  the  gift  of  the  executor. 

The  South  door  leads  to 

Gallery  C  39  (Altman  Room  No.  2)  : 

East  Wall:  25.  Velasquez,  Christ  and  Pilgrims  of  Emm§us;  2<S. 
Francia,  Federigo  Gonzaga;  27.  Van  Dyck,  Marchesa  Durazzo;  28. 
Velasquez,  King  Philip  IV  of  Spain;  29.  Van  Dvck,  Portrait  of  Lucas 
van  Uffel;  30.  Giorgtone,  Portrait  of  a  Man  (perhaps  Ariosto) ;  31. 
Titian,  Fillipo  Archinto. 

North  Wall:  32.  Albrecht  Diirer,  Madonna  and  Child,  with  St. 
Anne;  33.  Hans  Holbein,  *Margaret  Wyatt  (Lady  Lee);  34.  Bernard 
van  Orlev  (1493-1542),  Virgin  and  Child  with  Angels;  35.  Holbein^ 
Lady  Rich;  36.  Hans  Maler  zu  Schwaz  (German  School,  about  1525), 
Ulrich  Fugger. 


METROPOLITAN  ART  MUSEUM  327 

Weet  Wall:  37.  Bartolotnmeo  Montagna.  A  Lady  of .  Rank  as  St. 
Bibiana;  38.  Andrea  Mantegna,  The  Holy  Family;  39.  Antonello  da 
Messina,  Portrait  of  YouriR  Man;  40.  Fra  Angelica,  Crucifixion;  41. 
Andrea  del  Vcrrochio,  Madonna  and  Child;  43.  Botticelli,  Last  Com- 
munion of  St.  Jerome;  43.  Sebastiano  Mainardi.  ^  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  Angels;  44.  Cosimo  Tura,  Borso  d'Este;  /\s.  Filippino  Lippi,Y\Tf^r\ 
and   Child*,   with    St.   Joseph   and   a   Child   Angel. 

South  Wall:  46.  Dirk  Bouts,  Portrait  of  a  Man;  47.  Memlina, 
Marie,  wife  of  Thomas  Portinari;  48.  Memling,  Betrothal  of  St.  Cath- 
erine; 49.  Memling,  Thomas  Portinari;  50.  Memling,  An  (Jld  Man. 

The  S.  E.  door  of  Room  39  opens  upon 

N.  E.  Stairs.  West  Wail:  Walter  Florian,  Jozef  Israels.  South 
Wall:  Rousseau,  River  Landscape.  East  Wall:  Albert  Bierstadt,  The 
Rocky  Mountains.  North  Wall:  George  de  F.  Brush,  Portrait  of 
Henry  George. 

Continuing  S.  through  Room  11  we  come  to  the  S.  E. 
stairs : 

They  contain  numerous  bronze  and  marble  bas-reliefs  by  St. 
Gaudens:  1.  Bastien  Lenage.  in  bronze.  2.  M'l'-iana  Van  Rensselaer, 
bronze.  3.  Children  of  Jacob  SchifiF,  marble;  Robert  Louis  Stevenson, 
bronze. 

One  of.  the  most  recently  opened  additions  is  the  New 
Tapestry  Room  D  6,  which,  pending  the  completion  of  the 
South  Wing,  is  the  most  southerly  gallery  on  the  Fifth  ave. 
side: 

North  Wall:  (R.  to  L.)  i.  Ermin^a  appears  to  the  Shepherd 
(Tasso's  "Jerusalem  Delivered,"  Canto  VII,  st.  i),  Rome  1739,  by 
Pierre  Ferloni;  2.  Garden  Scene,  Flemish,  about  1500;  3.  Supper  at 
Emmaus,  Brussels,  first  half  of   17th  century. 

East  Wall:  i.  French  Tapestry  (Beauvais?),  beginning  of  Louis 
XVI  period;  2.  Hunting  Scene,  Franco-Flemish,  about  1500;  3.  French 
Tapestry    (Beauvais?)    beginning   of    Louis    XVI   period. 

South  Wall:  Five  French  Tapestries,  from  the  Gobelins  Atelier, 
1773,  after  cartoons  by  Charles  Coypel.  i.  Parting  of  Don  Quixote  and 
Sancho  Panza;  2.  Don  Quixote  Saluting  the  Peasant  Girl;  ^.  Don 
Quixote  and  Sancho  Panza  encounter  the  Duchess;  4.  Don  Quixote 
Served  by   Noble  Ladies;    5.   Don  Quixote  led  by  Folly. 

East  Wall:  t.  French  Tapestry  (Beauvais?)  beginning  of  Louis 
XVI  period;  2.  Expulsion  of  Vulcan  from  Olympus,  English,  Mort- 
lake.  1663;  3.  French  Tapestry  (Beauvais?'^,  beginning  of  Louis 
XVI  period. 

This  room  also  has  twelve  glass  cases  containing  early  eccle- 
siastical and  other  garments,  brocades,  etc.  Among  them  are:  A 
Chasuble,  Italian,  i8th  Cent.;  Brocaded  Cope,  Italian,  17th  Cent.; 
Embroidered  Chasuble,  English,  late  15th  Cent.;  Chasuble,  Spanish. 
i6th  Cent.;  Brocade,  French,  i8th  Cent.;  Italian  Cope  and  Chasuble, 
embroidered,   i8th   Century. 

Addition  F,  the  Wing  of  Decorative  Arts,  is  in  itself  a 
complete  museum,  especially  inspiring  to  craftsmen.  The  wing 
was  planned  by  the  late  Charles  F,  McKim,  and  constructed 
by  the  late  Alfred  R.  Wolff,  with  special  consideration  for  the 
great  Hoentschel  Collection  of  works  of  French  Decorative 
Arts  of  the  Middle  Ages  and  i8th  cen.  which  Mr.  Morqan 
purchased  and  sent  to  the  Museum.     The  plan  of  this  Wing 


328  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

in'cludes  a  large  central  hall  surrounded  by  two  stories 
of  smaller  galleries,  making  twenty-five  exhibition  rooms 
in  all.  The  wing  is  a  masterly  piece  of  architecture,  not 
only  in  beauty  of  design,  but  in  lighting,  heating  and  ven- 
tilation. The  temperature,  humidity  and  quality  of.  the  air 
are  tempered  to  the  preservation  of  the  ancient  woods  here 
housed. 

The  Central  Hall  (IF-i)  contains  European  Sculpture,  lath  to  17th 
cen. ;  at  the  S.  end  are  works  of  the  Italian  Renaisspnce;  at  the  N.  end 
French  works  of  the  Middle  Ages.  Adioininar  the  Italian  collection  is 
the  Spanish,  while  the  German  and  N«therlandish  are  grouped  near 
the  French.  Note  at  the  S.  end  the  Umbrian  Choir  Stalls  placed  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  hall.  Above  them.  (L.),  an  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Andrea  delta  Robbia.  There  are  two  cases  of  Renaissance 
bronze  statuettes  and  plaquettes,  including  a  Cleopatra,  by  a  Sienese 
artist;  a  Kneeling  Venus,  imitated  from  the  antique,  and  a  Kneeling 
Man,  School  of  Michelangelo.  Note  also  the  Virgin  and  Child,  by 
Verrocchio. 

Included  among  the  Spanish  works  is  a  large  *Altarpiece  in 
alabaster,  in  five  panels,  considered  one  of  the  most  important  exhibits 
in  the  collection. 

Among  the  French  exhibits,  note  especially  the  group  in  the 
central  doorway  to  the  west  representing  the  Education  of  the  Virgin, 
the  Statue  of  St.  Yvres,  and  a  Gothic  Window  with  St.  Michael  and 
St.  Martin  on  either  -side.  F  3,  the  ist  Gothic  Room,  holds  The  En- 
,  tombment  and  a  Pieta,  masterpieces  of  French  Sculpture  from  the 
Chateau  of  Biron.  F4,  the  2nd  Gothic  Room,  is  designed  to  produce 
the  gloomy  effect  of  a  Gothic  interior.  F5,  Italian  Renaissance,  15th 
and  i6th  cens.  F6,  French  Renaissance,  15th  and  i6th  cens.,  has  a 
dark  background  and  the  objects  show  the  delicate  relief  of  the  early 
French  Renaissance,  i6th  cen.  shows  the  characteristic  elegance  of 
the  French  Renaissance.  The  Maearin  Tapestry  is  especially  note- 
worthy. It  was  made  for  the  Spanish  Court,  and  later  came  into 
possession  of  Cardinal  Mazarin;  it  represents  in  several  symbolic 
scenes  the  glorification  of  the  Church. 

F7  is  a  continuation  of  French  Renaissance.  F8,  Northern 
Baroque,  17th  cen.  (Dutch,  Flemish,  German,  and  Italian)  illustrates 
the  Dutch  or  Flemish  interiors  of  the  period.  French  Art  of  the  17th 
and  1 8th  cen.  is  illustrated  in  Rs.  9  to  17.  Room  F9,  period  of  Louis 
XIV  (1643-1715)  contains  tWo  great  carved  doors  and  overpanels  from 
the  royal  chateau  of  Marly.  Fio,  periods  of  the  Regency  and  Louis 
XV,  contains  on  the  left  a  large  mirror  and  marble  mantel  of  the 
Regency.  F  11  is  a  reconstructed  *Swiss  Room  from  the  village  of 
Flims  in  Switzerland.  Notice  the  fine  wood  carving,  the  huge  tiled 
stove,  stained  glass  windows,  etc.  The  floor  alone  is  modern  and  th's 
is  secured  by  wooden  pegs  in  the  old  fashion.  The  stairway  in  th" 
N.  E.  corner  of  the  wing  holds  the  James  Jackson  Jarves  Collection  of 
Venetian  Glass,  principally  of  the  18th  cen. 

At  the  head  of  the  stairs,  in  Room  IIF  12,  some  17th  and  i8th  cen- 
tury tapestries  cover  the  greater  part  of  the  wall  space.  Rooms  F 16-1 7: 
Period  Louis  XVI.  Note  the  carved  door,  wall  panel  and  moldings 
originally  in  the  Pavilion  de  Marsan,  which  fortunately  escaped  destruc- 
tion when  the  Palace  of  the  Tuileries  was  burned  in  1871.  In  the  S. 
corridor,  F18,  are  eight  cases  of  Ormolu  Mounts  (French)  chiefly  of 
the  Louis  IV  period.  Also  three  busts  by  Houdon:  Benjamin  Frank- 
lin,  in   marble;    Voltaire   and    Rousseau,   in   painted   plaster. 


EAST  SIDE— UPTOWN.  329 

Rooms  F19-10  contain  a  collection  of  old  English  and  American 
Furniture.  Room  F19,  English  Furniture  of  the  i6th  and  17th  cen- 
turies, also  an  American  Trestle  Table,  dating  from  1650  (the  oldest 
known),  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Russell  Sage.  Room  F20,  English  Furniture, 
Queen  Anne  period.  Room  Fai,  English  Chippendale  and  later  i8th 
century.  Room  F22,  English  Chippendale.  Note  the  walls,  hung  with 
Chinese  wall  paper,  re-inforced  with  a  linen  backing,  and  elaborately 
hand-painted.  It  hung  for  200  years  on  the  walls  of  an  Enslish  house. 
Room  ^  F23,  American  Furniture,  showing  the  English  influence  and 
including  specimens  in  the  styles  of  Chippendale,  Heppel white  and 
Sheraton.  Room  F24,  American  Furniture,  i8th  century.  North  Cor- 
ridor, F25,  Porcelain  and  pottery,  English,  German  and  Italian,  of  the 
17th  and  1 8th  centuries. 


XI.     East  Side— Uptown 

(From  Fifty-ninth  Street  to  the  Harlem  River) 

a.    Fifth  Ayeniie 

From  59th  St.  to  iioth  st.,  Fifth  avenue  runs  beside 

Central   Park.     It  is  popularly  known,  through  the  greater 

part  of  its  extent,  as  "Millionaires*  Row." 

Few  streets  in  this  city  of  rapid  changes  can  show  such  a  contrast 
as  Fifth  Avenue  within  less  than  half  a  century.  Before  the  park  was 
laid  out  it  ran  for  three  miled  through  a  district  so  disreputable  and 
povert]r-istricken  that  it  had  come  to  be  known  as  the  "Squatters' 
Sovereignty."  I^  was  a  district  of  swamps  and  thickets  and  stagnant 
pools.  The  squatters  lived  in  shanties  constructed  from  boards  gathered 
at  the  river  front;  the  roofs  were  patched  with  tin  from  ^mpty  cans; 
and  usually  no  rent  was  paid.  The  estimated  number  of  the  colony  was 
about  5000;  and  the  largest  and  foulest  settlement  was  "Seneca  Village," 
near  79th  st.  and"  the  present  Metropolitan  Museum. 

Beginning  our  survey  of  upper  Fifth  avenue  at  the  Plaza 
(p.  205),  we  pass  at  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  6oth  st,  the  Van 
Norden  Trust  Company.  Opposite,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Metro- 
politan Club,  popularly  known  as  the  "Millionaires'  Club." 

This  club  was  founded  in  1891  by  members  of  the  Union  Club.  The 
present  building  was  erected  in  190^,  from  plans  by  McKim,  Mead  and 
White.  The  material  is  whitd  marble,  with  halls  of  Numidian  marble. 
The  site  it  occupies  is  land  formerly  owned  by  the  Duchess  of  Marl- 
borough. 

Betw.  6ist  and  626.  sts.  are  the  houses  of:  S.  E.  corner, 
Elbridge  T.  Gerry;  N.  E.  corner,  no.  800,  Mrs.  Jabez  A,  Bost- 
wick;  no.  804,  Wm.  Emlen  Roosevelt;  no.  805,  Wm,  Lan- 
man  Bull. 

E.  on  626.  St.,  no.  8,  is  the  residence  of  Joseph  H.  Choate. 

Betw.  626  and  63d  sts.  are  the  houses  of:  no.  810,  Mrs. 
Gustave  Amsinck;  no.  811,  Francis  L.  Loring;  no.  812,  George 
G.  McMurty;  no.  813,  Hugh  J.  Chisholm;  no.  814,  Mrs. 
Thomas  Rutter;  no.  816,  Robert  L.  Gerry. 

Betw.  63d  and  64th  sts.  are  the  houses  of :  no.  824,  James 
Powell  Kernochan;  no.  825;  Clifford  V.  Brokaw;  no.  82(5, 
Henry  Mortimer  Brooks, 


330  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Facing  64th  *st.   is  the  main  entrance  to   Central  Park 

Menagerie   (p.  302).     The  quaint  old  structure  opposite  the 

entrance  is  the  Arsenal. 

It  was  completed  by  the  State  of  New.  York  in  1848,  at  a  cost  of 
$30,000,  and  was  then  the  largest  arsenal  in  the  State.  In  1857  it  was 
sold  to  the  city  for  $275,000,  and  was  for  a  time  a  museum  of  natural 
history  and  office  of  the  Park  Department. 

Bet\v.  64th  and  65th  sts. ;  no.  833,  William  Guggenheim  : 
no.  934,  Frank  J.  Gould;  no.  835,  John  IV.  Herbert;  no,  836, 
Mrs.  Isador  Wormscr,  no.  838,  Williams  Watts  Sherman. 

Betw.  65th  and  66th  sts. ;  N.  E.  corner,  no.  840,  Vincent 
Aster,  son  of  John  Jacob  Astor,  who  lost  his  life  on  the 
"Titanic";  no.  845,  Grant  Barney  Schley. 

No.  3  E.  66th  St.  is  the  former  home  of  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant. 

Betw.  65th  and  67th  sts. :  N.  E.  corner,  Mrs.  Henry  O. 
Havemeyer;  no.  852,  Col.  Oliver  H.  Payne;  no.  854,  Mrs. 
Benjamin  Thaw. 

Betw.  67th  and  68th  sts. :  N.  E.  corner,  no.  857,  George  J. 
Gould;  no.  858,  Thomas  F.  Ryan;  no.  864,  Mrs.  M.  H.  Yerkes. 

The  67th  St.  entrance  to  the  park  is  known  as  the 
"Strangers'  Gate."  * 

Betw. '68th  and  69th  sts.:  N.  E.  corner  is  the  famous 
Whitney,  house,  now  occupied  by  Harry  Payne  Whitney, 
no.  874,  Mrs.  Joseph  Stickney;  no.  875,  Daniel  Gray  Reid; 
no.  876,  Frances  Burton  Harrison;  no.  878,  Mrs.  Ogden  Mills. 

Betw.  69th  and  70  sts.:  Mrs.  E.  H.  Harriman;  no.  881, 
Adolph  Lewisohn,  883,  Mrs.  John  Sloane. 

At  70th  St.,  on  the  Central  Park  side,  is  the  Memorial 
TO  Richard  Morris  Hunt  (1829-93),  designed  by  Daniel 
Chester  French  and  erected  by  the  leading  art  and  architec- 
tural societies  of  the  city. 

It  is  a  semi-circular  granite  entablature,  in  the  center  of  which,  on 
a  pedestal,  is  a  simple  portrait  bust  in  bronze.  To'R.  and  L.,  on 
lower  pedestals,  are  two  full-length  figures  in  classic  garb,  representing, 
respectively:   i.  Architecture;  2.  Painting  and  Sculpture. 

Opposite  this  memorial,  on  the  site  formerly  occupied 
by  the  Lenox  Library  (p.  331),  and  extending  from  70th  to 
71st  St.,  is  the  Residence  of  Henry  C.  Prick.  The  house  itself 
stands  back  some  distance  from  the  avenue,  with  an  extensive 
formal  garden  between,  while  a  wing  containing  a  library  and 
colonnade  occupes  the  N.  W.  corner.  The  style  is  a  free 
treatment  of  i8th  century  English,  modified  by  a  touch  of  the 
Italian  spirit  which  at  that  time  greatly  influenced  English 
buildings.     The   architect  was   Thomas  Hastings. 


EAST   SIDE— UPTOWN  331 

The  plot  is  reported  to  have  cost  $2,000,000  and  the  build- 
ing $3,000,000. 

Note  the  exterior  sculptural  lunettes  in  bas-relief  bjr  Attilio  Pic- 
ciritli,  on  N.  and  S.  facades  of  library,  representing  the  various  arts. 
The  interior,  decorations  were  in  charge  of  Sir  Charles  Allan  (the 
only  English  decorator  ever  knighted),  assisted  by  Miss  Elsie  de  Wolfe. 
The  chief  artistic  feature  is  the  famous  series  of  Fragonard  Panels 
which  surround  the  walls  of  the  drawing-room  on  the  Arst  floor.  They 
are  known  as  the  Du  Barry  Panels,  ffom  the  circumstance  that  they 
were  originally  painted  for  Mme.  Du  Barry;  but  when  they  proved 
unacceptable,  Fragonafd  placed  them  in  his  own  home  at  Grasse. 

The  valuable  collection  of  paintinn  i0  a  strictly  private  one,  and 
its  contents  are  not  generally  known,  Mr.  Frick  having  been  averse  to 
having  a  complete  cataloc^ue  published.  But  among  his  more  important 
possessions  may  be  mentioned  the  following: 

Italian  School:  Titian,  Portrait  of  Aretino;  Veronese,  Wisdom  and 
Strength,  The  Painter  pursued  by  Vice  and  Virtue. 

Spanish  School:  El  Greco:  Man  in  Armor:  Portrait  of  V.  Anastasi; 
Cardinal  Ximenes;  Christ  driving  the  Money-changers  from  the  Temple; 
Goya:  The  Forge;  Portrait  of  Count  de  Teba;  Portrait  of  Senora  da 
Praga;  Velasqwes:  Portrait  of  Philip  IV.;  Murillo:  Portrait  of  Himself.. 

Netherland  School:  Van  Dyck:  Portrait  of  Himself;  Portrait  of  the 
Artist,  Snyder's;  Portrait  o^  Snyder's  Wife;  Portrait  of  Paola  Adorno, 
Marchesa  di  Brignoli  Sala;  Marchesa  Giovanni  Cattaneo;  Frans  Hals: 
Portrait  of  a  Burgomaster;  Portrait  of  an  Old  Woman;  Rembrandt: 
Portrait  of  Himself;  Portrait  of  a  Young  Painter. 

French  School:  Corot:  The  Lake  of  Garda;  Daubigny:  The  Re- 
hearsal; Diaz:  The  Pond  of  Vipers;  Manet:  The  Bullfight;  Millet:  The 
Woman  with  a  Lamp;  Rousseau:  Village  of  Bacquigney;  The  Edge  of 
the  Woods;  Troy  on:  Pasturage  in  Normandy. 

English  School:  Constable:  Salisbury  Cathedral;  Gainsborough: 
Mrs.  Hatchett;  Lady  Innes;  Lady  Anne  Duncombe;  Lawrerce:  Ladv 
Peale;  Marquise  de  Blaizel;  Raebum:  Mrs.  Cruikshank;  Mr.  Cruik- 
shank;  Reynolds:  Ladv  Margaret  Beaumont;  Sir  George  Howland  Be* 
mont;  Mrs^  Taylor;  Komnev:  Lady  Hamilton;  Miss  Frances  Harford; 
Miss  Mary  Finch  Hatton;  Lady  Warwick  and  Children;  Turner:  Fish- 
ing Boats  leaving  Calais  Harbor;  Van  Goyen  looking  for  a  Subject; 
Mortlake  Terrace;  Harbor  of  Dieppe;  Cologne — Arrival  of  a  Packet 
Boat;  Regatta — Beating  to  Windward. 

American  School:  Whistler:  Rosa  Corder;  Count  de  Montesquiou; 
Valparaiso. 

Historical  Note. — ^The  tract  of  land  extending  from  68th  to  73d  sts. 
was  in  1839  the  farm  of  Robert  Lenox,  nephew  of  a  British  commissary 
during  the  Revolution.  Contrary  to  the  belief  of  his  generation,  Mr. 
Lenox  had  great  faith  in  the  future  value  of  the  land  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, and  his  tenacious  hold  upon  it  he  passed  on  to  his  son,  James. 
It  was  here  in  1877  that  the  Lenox  Library  was  opened,  through  the 
generosity  of  James  Lenox.  It  was  later  destined  to  form  one  of  the 
three  foundations  of  the  present  Public  Library  (p.  1R6).  The  old  Lenox 
Library,  a  solid,  well-proportioned  structure  of  white  stone,  was  de- 
signed b^  Richard  M.  Hunt,  whose  memorial  appropriately  faces  its 
former  site. 

At  72d  St.  is  the  Children's  Gate  entrance  to  the  park. 

Betw.  72d  and  73d  sts.:  No.  8g8,  Mrs.  Abercrombie  Bur- 
den; no.  912,  John   W.  Sterling;  no.  914,  Samuel  Thome. 


332  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Betw.  73d  and  74th  sts. :  no.  922,  Nicholas  F.  Palmer;  no.  923, 
Mrs-  Randolph  Guggenheimer;  no.  923,  Philip  Lewisohn;  no. 
924,  George  Henry  Warren;  no.  925,  Mrs.  Herbert  Leslie 
Terrell;  no.  926,  John  Woodruff  Simpson, 

The  brownstone  house,  at  the  S.£.  corner  of  74th  st.,  was  bei^n  in 
1875  by  Wittiam  Pickkardt,  an  eccentric  German  mUlicnaire.  He  re- 
peatedly changed  the  plans,  and  when  completed  in  1889  he  was  dis- 
satisfied with  It  and  would  not  occupy  it.  In  1895  he  put  it  up  at  auc- 
tion, and  the  house  upon  which  he  had  spent  over  $1,000,000  brought 
$472*500.  It  was  first  occupied  by  the  new  owner  in  1896,  over  20  years 
after  it  was  begun. 

Betw.  74th  and  75th  sts.:  no.  930,  Simeon  B.  Chapin; 
no.  932,  Mortimer  L.  Schiff;  no.  033,  Lamon  F.  Harkness; 
no.  934,  Alfred  M.  Hoyt;  no.  936,  Edwin  Gould. 

At  75th  St.,  N.  E.  corner :  Edward  5*.  Harkness. 

At  the  S.  E.  corner  of  76th  st.  is  Temple  Beth-El,  an 
ornate  synagogue,  with  some  striking  architectural  features. 

It  is  built  of  Indiana  limestone,  and  its  huge,  gilt-ribbed  dome  is 
a  prominent  landmark  (1891).  The  congregation  represents  the  first 
German- Jewish  congregation  in  the  country,  dating  back  to  1826. 

The  dwelling  houses  above  76th  st.  belong  to:  Mrs.  /.  /. 
Wysong;  no.  954,  Samuel  W.  Bridgham;  no.  955,  Horace 
Harding. 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  77th  st.  is  the  famous  huge  house 
of  the  late  Senator  Wm.  A.  Clark  of  Montana,  said  to 
have  cost  fifteen  million  dollars.  Beyond  are :  no.  963,  Charles 
F.  Dieterich;  no.  964,  Mrs.  George  H.  Butler;  no.  965, 
Jacob  H.  Schiff ;  no.  969,  Wm.  V.  Lawrence. 

Betw.  78th  and  79th  sts.  are:  no.  9/2,  Payne  Whitney; 
no.  973,  Carlos  De  Heredia;  no.  2  E.  79th  st.,  Isaac  D. 
Fletcher. 

At  79th  St.  is  the  Miner's  Gate  entrance  to  the  Park,  with 
the  Egyptian  Obelisk  nearby  (p.  304). 

Betw.  79th  and  80th.  sts.  are:  Isactc  V.  Brokaw;  no.  984, 
Howard  C  Brokaw;  no.  985,  Irving  Brokaw;  no.  986,  William, 
J.  Curtis;  no.  987,  Mrs.  William  Bateman  Leeds;  no.  988, 
,   Hugh  A.  Murray;  no.  ^989,  Nicholas  F.  Brady. 

Betw.  80th  and  8ist  sts.  are:  no.  990,  Frank  W.  Wool- 
worth;  no.  991,  David  Crawford  Clark;  no.  993,  Louis  Stern; 
no.  998  is  a  magnificent  apartment  house  (McKim,  Meade  and 
White,  architects),  where  suites  rent  so  high  that  it  has 
been  popularly  called  the  "Millionaire's  Apartments."  At 
present  Levi  P.  Morton,  Elihu  Root  and  M.  Guggenheim  are 
among  those  living  here.  Betw.  8ist  and  87th  sts.  are:  no. 
1007,  Henry  C.  Timmerman;  no.  1008,  Capt.  James  Berry 
Drouillard;  no,  1009,  James  B.  Duke, 


EAST  SIDE— UPTOWN  333 

At  83d  St.,  W.  side,  is  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art 
(p.  305). 

S.  E.  corner  of  83d  is  no.  1014,  James  F.  A,  Clark. 
Above  83d  St,  are  no.  1020,  William  Soloman;  no.  1025,  Lloyd 
Stevens  Bryce;  no.  1026,  Mrs.  William  M.  Kingsland;  no. 
1027,  George  Crawford  Clark;  no.  1028,  Jonathan  Thome. 

Above  84th  St.  are:  no.  1030,  Miss  Catherine  L.  Ham- 
mersley;  no.  1032,  Comtesse  Annie  Leary;  no.  1034,  Herbert 
D.  Robbins;  no.  1038,  apartment  house. 

Above  85th  St.  are :  /.  B,  Clews;  no.  1041,  Lloyd  Warren; 
no.  1043,  Morton  L.  Adler;  no.  1044,  Mrs.  James  Hedges 
Crowell;  no.  1045,  Mrs.  Richard  S.  Dana;  no.  1046,  Michael 
Dreicer;  no.  1047,  Henry  S.  Glover;  no.  1048,  an  apartment 
house. 

Above  86th  st.  are:  no.  1053,  George  Leary;  no.  1056, 
Charles  Page  Perin. 

Above  87th  St.  are:  no.  1063,  Henry  Phipps;  no.  1068, 
Leonard  Stein;  no.  1069,  Mrs.  James  B.  Reynolds. 

N.  E.  corner  88th  st. :  Mrs.  William  Pollock;  no.  1071, 
Robert  C.  Leivis;  no.  1072,  Wm.  W.  Fuller;  cor.  89th  st., 
Benj.  Duke. 

Above  89th  St.  are :  no.  1080,  Percival  Farquhar;  no.  108 1, 
McLane  Van  Ingen;  no.  1082,  Chas.  S.  Phillips;  no.  1083, 
Archer  M.  Huntington. 

At  90th  St.  is  the  Engineers*  Gate  entrance  to  Central 
Park. 

Betw.  90th  and  91st  sts.  is  Andrew  Carnegie. 

At  S.  E.  corner  92d  st.  is  /.  Toivnsend  Burden;  and 
'opposite,  no.  1109,  Felix  N.  Warburg. 

Above  93d  St.  is  no.  11 16,  Jacob  Ruppert. 

Mt.  Sinai  Hospital  (PI.  V — D2)  betw.  looth  and  loist  sts., 
from  5th  to  Madison  aves.,  has  a  capacity  of  516  beds.  About 
8000  cases  treated  in  the  hospital  and  over  a  100,000  in  all, 
in  1912.  Dispensary,  out-of-door  relief;  training  school  for 
nurses. 

Mount  Morris  Park  (PI.  XI — B8),  between  Madison  and 
Mount  Morris  aves.,  120th  and  124th  sts.,  20  acres,  contains  a  hill 
formerly  known  as  Slang  Berg,  or  Snake  Hill,  from  the 
rattlers  that  infested  it.  It  is  more  than  100  ft.  high,  and  is 
now  crowned  by  an  observatory.  An  American,  and  after- 
ward a  Hessian,  Battery  were  constructed  here  in  1776,  com- 
manding the  mouth  of  the  Harlem  River. 

One  block  N.  is  125th  st.,  the  main  business  and  amuse- 
ment centre  of  Harlem  (p.  340). 


334  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

b.    Madison  Avenue 

At  Madison  Ave.  and  59th  St.,  S.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Plasa 
Theatre,  now  a  motion  picture  house.  At  60th  st.,  N.  E. 
cor.,  is  Madison  Avenue  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  a 
rather  good  example  of  round-arched  Gothic  (R.  H.  Rob- 
ertson, architect).  At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  64th  St.  stands  the 
residence  of  the  late  Seth  Low,  one-time  president  of  Co- 
lumbia University.  At  6sth  St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  the  Synagogue 
of  B'Nai  Jeshurun,  a  red  brick  and  brown  stone  structure, 
somewhat  Moorish  in  design.  This  is  the  second  oldest 
congregation  in  New  York,  organized  1825. 

Betw.  70th  and  71st  Sts.  on  the  E.  side,  is  an  extensive 
group  of  red  brick  buildings,  comprising  the  Presbyterian 
Hospital  (incorp.  1868,  opened  1872).  The  square,  Roman- 
esque tower  at  the  S.  corner  is  a  familiar  landmark. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  known  of  the  city  *  hospitals.  Its  avowed 
purpose  is  "for  the  medical  and  surgical  aid  of  sick  and  disabled  per- 
sons of  every  creed,  nationality  and  color."  Less  than  10%  of  the 
cases  are  Presbyterian.  No  contagious  or  infectious  cases  admitted. 
Capacity,  238  beds. 

At  71st  St.,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church  of  St.  James,  founded  in  1810.  The  present  struc- 
ture, dating  from  1884,  is  on  the  order  of  very  early  French 
Gothic  (R,  H.  Robertson,  architect) . 

It  contains  a  bronze  memorial  tablet,  with  portrait  in  relief,  to 
Cornelius  Bishop  Smith,  Rector  of  St.  James,  1867-95. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  72nd  St.  is  the  Tiffany  House,  de- 
signed by  McKim,  Mead  and  White. 

At    73d    St.,    S.    W.    cor.,    stands    St.    James   Lutheran* 
Church,  a  brown  stone  edifice,   on  the  Romanesque  order. 
Diagonally  opposite,  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  Madison  Avenue  Pres- 
byterian Church,  in  ornate  Gothic.    E.  on  73d  St.,  No.  49,  is 
the  Presbyterian  Home  for  Aged  Women  (incorp.  1866). 

Applicants  must  be  residents  of  New  York  City,  65  years  of  age, 
and  must  give  proof  of  a  three-years  membership  of  one  of  the  city's 
Presbyterian  or   Dutch   Reformed   churches. 

At  77th  St.  the  large  brick  house  surrounded  by  lawns 
is  the  residence  of  Seth  Milliken. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  78th  St.  is  the  residence  of  Stuy- 
vesant  Fish,  and  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  79th  St.  the  house  once 
occupied  by  former  Mayor  Grace.  On  the  E.  side  extending 
from  81  st  to  82d  St.  is  the  Institution  of  Mercy  (incorp. 
[854),  maintaining  also  St.  Joseph's  Industrial  Home  for 
Destitute  Children,  with  accomodations  for  750  inmates. 


EAST  SIDE— UPTOWN  335 

The  Institution  of  Mercy  was  founded  "for  the  care  and  protec- 
tion of  destitute  women  and  young  girls  of  good  character."  It  also 
maintains  an  Infirmary  (4th  Ave.  side),  a  Working  Girls'  Home  in 
io6th   St.,  and  a  branch  Home   for  boys  only  at  Tarrytown. 

E.  on  89th  St.  is  the  P.  E.  Church  of  the  Beloved  Dis- 
ciple, t 

From  94th  to  95 th  Sts.  is  the  Armory  of  8th  Regiment 
and  the  ist  Squadron  of  Cavalry.  The  two  towers,  50  ft.  in 
diameter  and  125  ft.  high,  are  visible  for  miles. 

There  is  little  of  interest  N.  of  this  point,  except  the 
Mount  Sinai  Hospital    (p.    333),   and    Mount    Morris    Park 

(p.  3ZZ)' 

c.    Park  Avenue 

The  two  points  of  interest  at  59th  St.,  the  Board  of 
Ekiucation  and  the  Arion  Society,  have  already  been  mentioned 
(p.  218).. 

The  fortress-like  building  betw.  66th  and  67th  Sts.,  E. 
side,  is  the  Armory  of  the  ,/th  Regiment,  a  well-known  regi- 
ment, growing  out  of  the  New  York  City  Regiment  of  Artil- 
lery organized  in  1806.  The  building  and  furnishings  cost 
$650,000,  the  land  having  been  given  by  the  city. 

The  7th  Regiment,  bjr  common  repute  the  "crack"  New  York  State 
regiment  J  was  organized  in  1806  and  has  a  long  and  honorable  record 
for  service  performed  for  the  federal  jg^overnment  and  the  State.  It 
served  in  the  War  of  18 12  and  in  the  Civil  War.  It  was  called  out  in 
the  Election  and  Abolition  Riots  of  1834;  the  Great  Fire,  1833;  the 
Stevedore  Riot,  1836;  the  Flour  Riot,  1837;  the  Croton  Water  Riot. 
1840;  the  Great  Fire,  1845;  the  Astor  Place  Riot,  1849;  the  Police  and 
"Dead  Rabbit"  Riots,  1857;  Quarantine  Duty,  1859;  the  Railroad  Riot, 
1871;  the  Brooklyn  Car  Riot,  1895;  the  Croton  Dam  Riot,  1900.  The 
several  companies  occupied  separate  quarters  tip  to  i860,  when  they 
moved  into  an  armory  on  Tompkins  Market.  The  Regiment  built  its 
own  armory  at  a  cost  of  $750,000  in  1880.  The  present  value  of  the 
building  is  $poo,ooo,  and  of  the  land  $1,200,000.  The  regiment  has  a 
fine  record  in  rifle  shooting,  holds  classes  in  riding,  telegraphy  and 
signalling,  ihakes  biennial  tours  of  camp  duty  at  Peekskill,  and  gives 
much  attention  to  field  work. 

Between  67th  and  68th  sts.  is  th?  Hahnemann  Hospital, 
incorporated  in  1869,  and  in  1875  consolidated  with  the 
Homeopathic  Surgical  Hospital  and  the  Homeopathic  Hospital 
for  Women  and  Children.    Total  capacity,  130  beds. 

The  Gothic  building  with  the  square  tower  at  69th  st. 
is  Hunter  College,  formerly  the  Normal  College,  established 
in  1870  as  a  free  city  institution  to  train  girls  for  teachers. 
It  has  about  3000  pupils. 

This  institution  commemorates  the  memory  of  Dr.  Thomas  Hunter 
(i 832-1915),  who  came  to  this  country  from  Ireland  at  the  age  of  18, 
and  began  his  career  of  educator  as  junior  teacher  in  the  familiar 
"Old  Thirteenth  Street  School"   (60  W.    13th  St.),  of  which  he  later 


336  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

became  principal.  In  1870,  at  the  opening  of  the  Normal  School 
(later  Normal  College),  he  was  chosen  as  President,  and  held  this 
position  until  his  retirement  in  1906.  Shortly  afterwards  the  name 
of  the  institution  was  changed  to  Hunter  College.  During  Dr. 
Hunter's  presidency  there  were  more  than  10,000  graduates.  He  is 
remembered  as  one  of  the  foremost  educators  in  the  United   States. 

E.  on  6th  St.,  No.  130,'  is  St.  Ann's  Maternity  Hospital, 
established  1869. 

This  hospital  is  associated  with  the  New  York  Foundling  Hospital, 
at  175  E.  68th  St.  Destitute  married  women,  unmarried  women  (first 
confinement)   and  strangers  who  can  pay  are  received. 

No.  752,  between  71st  and  72d  sts.,  is  the  former  residence 
of  Robert  I,  Collier.  At  the  cor.  of  72d  st.  is  the  Freund- 
schaft  Society,  a  German  club,  organized  in  1879.  E.  on  74th 
St.  is  the  P.  E.  Church  of  the  Resurrection.  From  76th  to 
77th  sts.  is  the  German  Hospital,  extending  through  to  Lex- 
ington ave. 

It  is  for  the  free  medical  aid  and  surgical  treatment  of  the  sick 
poor,  regardless  of  nationality,  color  or  creed.  Capacity,  328  beds. 
Founded  in  1861. 

At  Park  ave.  and  84th  st.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Ignatius 
Loyola,  designed  bv  Schickel  and  Ditmars.  The  interior  is 
richly  decorated. 

The  dome  of  the  sanctuary  is  covered  with  a  conventionalized  vine 
on  a  ground  of  gold  mosaic,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  crucified 
Saviour  (by  A.  S.  Locke).  Below  the  ceiling  and  dome  of  the  sanctuary 
is  a  large  fresco  representing  Christ  Enthroned, 

At  85th  St.  is  the  Dutch  Reformed  South  Church,  originally 
established  on  Tuyen  or  Garden  st.  (now  Exchange  Place), 
between  Broad  and  William  sts.  The  present  edifice  suggests 
comparison  with  St.  Chapelle,  Paris,  chiefly  because  of  its 
fleche    {.Cram,  Goodhue  and  Ferguson,  architects). 

Note  especially  the  carving  of  the  main  facade.  On  the  tympanum 
are  the  Arms  of  the  Dutch  Church  and  tww  mottos:  "Nisi  Dominus 
Frustra"  and  "Een  Drach  Maakt  Macht."  Below  are  symbols  of  the 
Twelve  Apostles.  In  the  archway  are  bosses  representing  the  Virtues 
overcoming  the  Vices  the  'Latin  names  are  carved  on  a  ribbon  that 
twines  about  the  figures:  Largitas — Avaritas;  Humilitas — Superhia; 
Patientia — Ira,  etc.  Supporting  the  pinnacles  on  either  side  of  the 
porch  are  the  crouching  figures  of  Adam  and  Eve.  On  the  left  are 
the  Arms  of  the  University  of  Heidelberg;  on  the  right,  the  arms 
of  New  Amsterdam.     The  lead  fleche  is  70  ft.  high. 

The  seating  capacity  is  700.  Note  the  beautifully  executed  wood 
carving,  by  Irving  and  Casson.  In  the  organ  case  no  two  panels 
are  alike. 

The  great  building  with  the  towers  at  94th  st.  is  the 
Armory  of  the  8th  Regiment,  a  copy  of  the  Chateaux  of 
St.  Andre  at  Villeneuve. 


EAST  SIDE— UPTOWN  337 

d.    Lexington  Avenue 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  66th  St.  is  the  R.  C.  Church  of  St. 
Vincent  Ferrar  and  the  adjoining  parochial  school. 

At  67th  St.  is  the  Institute  for  the  Improved  Condition 
of  Deaf -mutes  (incorp.  1869),  the  purpose  of  which  is  to 
educate  children  who,  on  account  of  deafness,  cannot  re- 
ceive instruction  in  the  public  schools. 

Speech  and  lip-reading  are  taught  to  all,  the  Oral  Method  being 
used  exclusively.  Mentally  deficient  children  are  not  received.  Kind- 
ergarten, common  school,  and  industrial  courses  are  offered.  Children 
from  other  states  pay  tuition.  Supported  by  state  and  county  funds, 
membership   dues  and   voluntary  contributions. 

E.  on  67th  St.  is  the  New  York  Neurological  Institute 
(incorp.  1909),  comprising  a  hospital  and  laboratory  for  the 
study  and  treatment  of  nerve  and  brain  diseases. 

There  are  no  free  wards;  l^ut  in  addition  to  the  private  wards 
and  rooms,  there  are  special  wards  where  male  and  female  patients 
are  received  at  very  moderate  charges,   less  than  cost  of  maintenance. 

Nearby  on  the  same  block  are  the  Headquarters  of  the 
New  York  Fire  Department   (see  p.  xxvi).  • 

Betw.  67th  and  68th  Sts.  is  the  New  York  Foundling 
Hospital  (incorp.  1869),  the  purpose  of  which  is  to  receive 
foundling  and  deserted  children  of  New  York  City.  Adja- 
cent is  St.  Ann's  Maternity  Hospital  (p.  336).  Both  insti- 
tutions are  under  the  control  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity  of 
Mount  St.  Vincent. 

Mothers  who  are  willing  to  act  as  nurses  are  received  with  their 
infants.      Both    institutions    are    under    the    control    of    the    Sisters    of 
,  Charity.     Capacity,  700  children  and  300  adults.     Visitors  received  the 
'ist  Tuesday  of  each  month  from  2  to  4  p.  m. 

At  76th  St  is  the  marble  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St. 
Jean  le  Baptist e,  with  an  adjoining  parcfchial  school  on  the 
E.         ^ 

At  77th  St.  is  the  German  Hospital,  a  general  hospital, 
with  a  capacity  of  266  beds. 

On  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  82nd  St.  is  the  famous  Richardson 
"Spite  House"  on  a  lot  8  by  100  ft. 

e.    East  of  Lexington  Avenue 

At  2d  Ave.  and  59th  St.  is  the  Manhattan  approach  to 
the  Queensboro  Bridge  (p.  no).  This  is  the  starting  point 
of  trolley  lines  to  Long  Island  City,  Flushing,  Jamaica  and 
other  points  in  the  Borough  of  Queens. 

At  337  E.  60th  St.  is  the  white  brick  structure  of  the 


338  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Manhattan  Maternity  Hospital  (incorp.  1901)  ;  it  maintains 
a  school  for  nurses.  In  6ist  St.,  421  E.,  is  a  quaint  old  stone 
dwelling,  popularly   known   as   "Smith's  Folly/' 

It  was  built  in  1799  by  Col.  William  S.  Smith,  son-in-law  of 
Pres.  John  Adams,  and  first  used  as  a  stable  (the  date  may  be  seen 
on  the  rear  wall).  Later  it  was  converted  into  a  tavern,  and  in  1830 
was  bought  by  Jeremiah  Towle,  City  Surveyor,  whose  descendants 
lived  there  until  1908.  It  is  said  that  the  first  owner  lost  it  at  a  game 
of    cards. 

At  No.  222  E.  64th  St.  is  the  Baron  de  Hirsch  Trade 
School,  one  of  the  several  benevolent  institutions  supported 
by  the  Baron  de  Hirsch  Fund  (^headquarters,  80  Maiden 
Lane.) 

The  chief  purpose  of  this  fund  is  to  benefit  the  Russian,  Roumanian 
and  Galician  immigrants,  and  to  Americanize  and  assimilate  them 
by  teaching  them  to  become  good  citizens.  The  Trade  School  prepares 
young  Jewish  men  for  one  of  the  following  trades:  Carpentry,  Plumb- 
ing, Electrical  Work,  House,  Frescp  and  Sign  Painting,  Operating 
Engineering,   etc.     Tuition   free. 

Rockefeller  Institute  for  Medical  Research,  at  66th  st. 
and  Ave.  A,  was  founded  and  eydowed  by  John  D.  Rocke- 
fellei*  with  $4,000,000,  to  advance  the  science  of  medicine 
through  laboratory  investigations,  clinical  observations  and 
study  in  the  Hospital  of  the  Institute  and  through  money 
grants  to  persons  engaged  in  medical  research.  The  old 
building  on  the  grounds  is  a  farmhouse  built  in  1747  on  the 
old  Schermerhorn  farm. 

The  capacity  of  the  Hospital  Department  is  70  beds.  Patients 
are  admitted  only  when  suffering  from  certain  specified  diseases,  which 
are  from  time  to  time  selected  for  observation  and  treatment.  The  staff 
includes  a  number  of  celebrated  scientists,  among  others,  Drs.  Flexner 
(Director  of  Laboratories),  Meltzer,  Carrell,  Nagutchi,  Janeway* 
and  Loeb. 

New  York  Trade  School,  ist  Ave.  and  67th  St.,  founded 
1881,  to  provide  training  for  young  men  having  a  l^ent  for 
mechanics,  offers  both  day  and  evening  classes.  The  average 
attendance  is  600.  It  is  open  to  visitors  on  weekdays,  9  a.  m. 
to  4  p.  m.,  except  Saturday,  when  the  hours  are  9  a.  m.  to 
12  m, 

N.  of  67th  St.  is  a  Bohemian  and  Slavonic  district.  The 
Bohemian  National  Hall  is  on  73d  St.  On  the  upper  side  of 
68th  St.  betw.  ist  and  2d  Aves.  is  the  German  Reformed 
Church,  an  unpretentious  red  brick  edifice,  the  fourth  since 
its  organization  in  1756. 

The  first  edifice  was  on  Nassau  St.,  betw.  John  St.  and  Maiden 
Lane.  Among  the  active  members  were  Baron  Steuben  and  John 
Jacob  Astor,  the  latter  being  elder,  clerk  and  treasurer  about  1800. 
In    1822    a    second    church    building    was    erected    on    Forsyth    St.,    the 


EAST  SIDE-UPTOWN  339 

third  removal  in  1861  was  to  the  cor.  of  Norfolk  and  Stanton  Sts.,  and 
the  present  church  was  erected  in  1897.  The  following  year,  on  the 
occasion  of  the  church's  150th  anniversary,  the  bell  now  used  was 
presented  by  the  German  Emperor. 

On  the  riverbank,  from  76th  to  78th  sts.,  is  John  Jay 
Park,  surrounded  by  a  group  of  interesting  "model"  tene- 
ments, built  to  provide  dwellings  with  sufficient  light  and  air 
and  space  at  a  moderate  rent. 

At  77th  St.  and  the  East  River  are  the  East  River  Homes,  designed 
especially  for  tubercular  families.  Mrs.  W.  K.  Vanderbilt  furnished 
the  money  for  this  experiment.  At  78th  st.  and  East  End  ave.  is  the 
Junior  League  House,  a  hotel  for  women,  accommodating  350  guests, 
at  a  board  ranginyg  from  $5-7.  This  house  is  under  tne  City  and 
Suburban  Homes  Co.,  as  is  also  the  apartment  house  from  ^  78th  to  79th 
St.,  Avenue  A,  containing  1,014  apartments.  This  organization  is  an 
incorporated  company,  with  a  capital  stock  of  $6,000,000.  The  object 
is  to  build  good  homes  which  will  return  a  moderate  profit  on  the  in- 
vestment. This  company  has  been  criticised  because  the  rents,  low 
as  they  are,  are  necessarily  higher  than  those  of  the  old,  unsanitary 
tenements,  and  are  therefore  beyond  the  means  of  the  very  poor  people. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  company's  houses  exert  a  strong  influence  in 
raising  the  standard  of  tenements  built  for  purely  commercial  purposes. 
Other  houses  are  situated  on  W.  68th  and  69th  sts,  near  Amsterdam 
ave.;  ist  ave.,  64th  st  and  65tb  sts.;  415-9  E.  73rd  sts.;  213-5  W.  62nd 
St.  (for  negroes);  210-8  W.  63rd  st.  (for  negroes).  Similar  houses 
built   by   other  investors   are   under   their    management.     The   company 

also   builds   suburban   homes   and    sells   them   on    easy    terms. 

« 

On  the  79th  St.,  east  of  ist  Ave.,  is  the  R.  C.  Church  of 
St.  Monica  (Schickel  and  Ditmars,  archs.).  The  windows, 
28  in  number,  exclusive  of  the  clerestory,  are  especially  fine 
(glass  work  by  Arnold  and  Locke). 

Between  the  windows  are  the  fourteen  Stations  of  the  Cross, 
in  plaster  relief,  framed  by  a  gilded  gothic  molding.  The  apse  is 
painted  in  rich  colors,  the  walls  being  covered  to  half  their  height  with 
a  simulated  mosaic  representing  figures  robed  in  blue,  brown  and  red, 
against  a  background  of  gold.  The  five  larger  windows  represent  the 
main  events  in  the  life  of  Christ.  The  altar  is  of  pure  Carrara  marble 
with  pavonazzo;  in  the  centre  of  the  altar  above  the  baldachino  is  a 
large  statue  of  St.  Monica.  The  finest  windows  are  those  behind  the 
large  altar  and  above  the  side  altars;  note  especially  the  one  showing 
the  Death  of  St.  Joseph. 

The  Electrical  Testing  Laboratories,  8oth  st.  and  East 
End  ave.,  is  a  commercial  enterprise,  performing  work 
similar  to  that  of  the  Dept.  of  Standards  at  Washington  and 
the  National  Physics  Laboratory  in  London.  It  began  as  a 
testing  station  for  electric  lights,  and  electrical  equipment 
and  machinery  generally,  etc.,  but  has  widened  its  scope 
until  now  practically  any  article  can  be  sent  here  to  be  tested 
for  strength,  durability,  and  other  qualities.  Publishers  send 
here  samples  of  paper  and  leather;  and  coal  is  tested  for 
thermal  efficiency  by  many  large  consumers.  Private  engi- 
neering and  electrical  laboratories  are  also  rented  to  research 


340  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

workers  and  investigators.  While  the  general  public  is  not 
admitted  to  the  works,  parties  of  students  from  various 
institutions,  writing  for  permission,  have  been  shown  through 
the  laboratories. 

The  area  bounded  by  4th  and  2d  Aves.,  83d  and  89th, 
includes  the  site  of  the  old  village  of  Yorkville,  once  traversed 
by  the  old  Post  Road.  The  name  survives  in  the  titles  of 
various  local  institutions:  the  Yorkville  Casino,  on  86th  St., 
the  Yorkville  Theatre,  etc.  86th  St.  is  the  social  centre  of 
the  up-town  German  Colony;  here  are  several  German  res- 
taurants; also  the  Aschenbrbdel-Vercin,  a  German  musical 
and  singing  society. 

The  East  River  Park  (12.5  A.),  sometimes  called  the 
Carl  Schurz  Park,  lies  betw.  84th  and  89th  sts.,  along  the 
riverbank,  overlooking  the  rough  passage  of  water  called 
Hell  Gate  (p.  109)  and  Blackwcll's  Island  (p.  no),  lying  in 
the  channel.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  park  is  a  house 
now  used  for  a  comfort  station,  formerly  the  home  of  Archi- 
bald Gracie,  a  prominent  citizen,  and  built  about  1813.  The 
point  of  land  on  which  it  stands  is  Horn's  Hook. 

•  Washington  Irving  was  a  frequent  visitor  at  the  Gracie  House, 
as  well  as  at  the  John  Jacob  Astor  House,  which  formerly  stood  just 
S.  of  the  intersection  of  86th  St.  and  Ave.  A.  Horn's  Hook,  on  which 
the  Gracie  House  stands,  takes  its  name  from  the  village  of  Hoorn, 
in  Holland,  the  birthplace  of  the   Hook's  first  owner,   Siebert  Classen 

W.  on*  90th  St.,  within  the  grounds  of  St.  Joseph's 
Orphan  Asylum,  still  stands  the  old  Prime  House,  now  used 
as  one  of  the  asylum's  buildings.  It  dates  from  1800.  Nathan- 
iel Prime,  a  merchant  prince  of  that  period,  lived  at  No.  i 
Broadway  (the  Kennedy  House),  on  the  site  now  occupied 
by  the  Washington  Building  (p.  123).  He  built  the  90th  St. 
house  as  his  summer  residence. 

f.    Harlem 

One  Hundred  and  Twenty-fifth  Street,  extending  from 
the  East  River  westward  to  Claremont  Ave.,  is  the  busiest 
business  and  theatrical  centre  on  Manhattan  Island,  N.  of 
Central  Park,  and  the  main  artery  of  the  residential  section 
popularly  known  as  Harlem. 

The  name  of  Harlem  dates  back  to  the  founding  by  Gov.  Peter 
Stuyvesant,  in  March,  1658,  of  the  village  of  Nieuw  Haerletn.  The 
original  boundary  between  this  village  and  New  Amsterdam  ran  in 
a  straight  line  from  74th  st.  on  the  East  River,  through  McGown's 
Pass  (in  Central  Park),  to  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  the  Columbia  University 
grounds,  and  straight  on  to  the  Hudson  River,  thus  making  Columbia 
the  only  one  of  New  York's  three  higher  seats  of  learning  still 
technically    within    the    limits    of    the    original    Dutch    city. 


EAST  SIDE— UPTOWN  341 

The  village  of  Nieuw  Haerlem,  however,  centered  closely  about  the 
present  intersection  of  lasth  st.  and  ist  ave.  This  region  was  originally 
occupied  by  Indian  encampments,  one  of  the  largest  being  located  at 
Pleasant  ave.  and  121st  st.,  where  a  large  quantity  of  arrow-heads  have 
been  found.  The  present  intersection  of  ist  ave.  and  i2Sth  st.  is  the 
crossing  point  of  the  old  Church  Lane,  marking  the  sites  of  the  original 
Dutch  Church  (1668),  the  house  of  the  Vorleser^  or  Reader  of  the 
Dutch  church,  and  just  adjoining  to  the  E.,  the  Second  Dutch  Church. 

Most  of  the  relics  of  the  original  village,  which  survived 
for  nearly  two  centuries,  are  buried  under  the  growth  of 
modern  New  York.  The  oldest  landmark  which  still  survives 
is  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church  on  121st  st,  just  E.  of  3d 
ave.,  the  fourth  church  building  of  this  congregation.  The 
land  it  occupies  was  one  of  'the  original  town  lots,  cleared 
of  lumber  as  early  as  1666.  In  the  belfry  hangs  the  original 
bell,  removed  from  the  first  of  the  four  churches.  It  bears 
the  inscription :  Amsterdam,  Anno  1734,  Me  Fecit.  Just  W. 
of  the  church,  running  N.  is  a  secluded  little  street  called 
Sylvan  Place,  lined  with  ancient  trees ;  it  is  the  only  surviving 
mark  of  the  old  Eastern  Post  Road.  Two  blocks  N.  on 
3d  ave.,  S.  W.  cor.  of  123d  St.,  is  the  uptown  branch  of 
Cowperthwaite*s  Household  Furnishing  Store.  The  walls 
surrounding  the  office,  on  the  main  floor,  are  hung  with  a 
unique  collection  of  rare  old  prints  of  New  York  streets  and 
buildings.  West  of  3d  ave.,  on  125th  st.  begins  the  retail 
business  centre  of  Harlem.  Most  of  the  shops  are  small 
and  a  large  proportion  of  the  dealers,  and  also  of  the  pur- 
chasers are  Hebrews.  As  we  cross  5th  ave.  we  catch  a 
glimpse,  on  the  S.,  of  Mt.  Morris  Park  (p.  3^z),  known  to 
the  early  Dutch  as  the  Slang  Berg  (Snake  Hill),  because 
of  its  swarms  of  rattle  snakes.  The  fire-tower  surmounting 
its  central  elevation  is  the  last  survival  of  the  old  New  York 
Volunteer  Fire  Department.  Two  blocks  N.,  on  5th  ave.,  cor. 
of  127th  St.,  stands  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  of  St. 
Andrew,  founded  in  1829;  the  present  edifice  dates  from  1889. 

The  interior  is  impressive;  note  especially  the  lofty  nave.  The 
chancel  is  lighted  by  two  lancet  windows,  between  which  is  a  large 
mural  painting:  "The  Call  of  St.  Andrew,**  the  patron  saint.  The 
St.    Agnes  window  was  designed   by  Joseph  Lauber. 

At  Lenox  ave.  (the  continuation  of  6th  ave.  above  the 
Park),  is  the  station  of  the  Bronx  branch  of  the  interborough 
Subway.  West  of  this  begins  the  real  centre  of  Harlem  civic 
life.  Midway  in  the  next  block  is  Harlem's  chief  Department 
Store,  H.  C.  F.  Koch  and  Co.,  the  first  of  the  old  established 
firms  on  lower  6th  ave.  that  had  the  sagacity  to  move  north- 
ward. At  7th  ave.,  S.  W.  cor.,  is  the  recently  erected  Hotel 
Theresa,  the  most  modern  and  best  equipped  hotel  in  Harlem. 


342  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

One  block,  on  7th  ave.,  cor.  of  126th  st.,  is  the  Alhamhra 
Theatre,  a  high  class  vaudeville  house.  To  the  S.,  N.  E.  cor. 
of  124th  St.,  is  Locufs  Seventh  Avenue  Theatre;  it  contains 
among  other  decorations  a  mural  painting  by  Harry  Stoner 
(1880).  Just  W.  of  7th  ave.  is  KeitWs  Harlem  Opera  House, 
which  a  generation  ago  was  the  most  important  of  the  up- 
town theatres.  For  many  years  it  was  the  halting  place  of 
theatrical  companies  starting  "on  the  road,"  after  a  success- 
ful run  on  Broadway,  and  many  frugal  New  Yorkers  bided 
their  time  until  they  could  see  the  latest  popular  success  at 
practically  half  price.  For  the  last  few  years,  however,  it 
has  been  given  over  chiefly  to  moving  pictures. 

West  of  St.  Nicholas  Ave.  is  the  West  End  Theatre,  which 
for  a  while  succeeded  the  Harlem  Opera  House  as  the  first 
stopping  place  of  road  companies.  For  the  last  year  or  two 
it  has  been  closed  most  of  the  time.  One  Hundred  and 
Twenty-fifth  st.  now  crosses  Manhattan  Ave.  Two  blocks 
S.  is  Hancock  Square,  in  which  is  a  bronze  portrait  bust  of 
Winfield  Scott  Hancock,  by  James  W.  H.  McDonald,  sculptor. 

Continuing  W.  past  Morningside  ave.  the  trolley  tracks 
and  main  line  of  traffic  branch  diagonally  to  the  N.,  on 
Manhattan  ave.,  passing  beneath  the  Subway  Viaduct  (at 
Broadway),  and  the  Riverside  Drive  Viaduct  and  ending 
at  129th  St.  and  Fort  Lee  Ferry. 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  343 

XII.     Washington  Heights  (Northern  Manhattan 

Island — Southern  Section) 

(From  130th  Street  to  i6oth  Street) 

North  of  Grant's  Tomb  (p.  253)  and  the  Claremont 
(p.  254)  the  ground  drops  abruptly  into  Manhattan  Valley 
This  dip  is  crossed  by  the  Riverside  Drive  Viaduct  and  the 
Subway  Viaduct.  In  early  Dutch  days  this  vicinity  was 
known  as  Widow  David's  Meadow.  In  Revolutionary  times 
it  was  called  The  Hollow  Way  and  today  is  known  locally 
as  Manhattanville.  The  Battle  of  Harlem  Heights  started 
here  and  a  commemorative  tablet  has  been  erected  at  the  S. 
end  of  the  Drive  Viaduct  by  the  Knickerbocker  Chapter, 
Daughters  of  the  Revolution.  Fort  Lee  is  directly  opposite 
across  the  Hudson. 

The  Washington  Heights  section,  so-called,  begins  at 
about  137th  St.,  beyond  the  Manhattanville  valley.  It  is  built 
up  with  long  stretches  of  monotonous  apartment  houses. 
The  objects  of  special  interest  in  this  section  are  the  College 
of  the  City  of  New  York  at  140th  St.  and  Amsterdam  Ave. 
and  the  group  of  buildings  at  156th  St.  and  Broadway. 

Along  Amsterdam  Ave.  are  many  charitable  institutions. 
Near  129th  St.,  just  west  of  Amsterdam  Ave.,  at  94  Law- 
rence St.  is  the  Speyer  School,  a  demonstration  school  for 
the  practice  of  students  at  Teachers'  College  (p.  275)  and  a 
social  settlement  for  the  congested  neighborhood. 

The  building,  erected  in  1902,  was  the  gift  of  James  Speyer,  a 
trustee  of  Teachers'  College.  The  architect  was  Edgar  H.  Josseiyn. 
The  building  is  planned  for  the  needs  of  a  settlement,  containing,  in 
the  basement,  a  gymnasium  with  baths;  on  the  first  floor,  librarv,  read- 
ing rooms,  and  kindergarten;  second  floor,  doctor's  and  nurses  office 
and  classrooms;  third  floor,  classrooms;  fourth  floor,  work  rooms  and 
laboratories;  fifth  floor,  living  rooms  for  residents;  roof,  playground. 
The  afternoon  and  evening  classes  include  a  wide  range  of  subjects; 
social  clubs  meet  here;  and  a  flne  library  is  available  to  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

At  129th  St.  and  Amsterdam  Ave.  is  the  Sheltering  Arms, 
incorporated  in  1864,  a  temporary  home  for  children  betw.. 
6  and  10.  The  parents  are  expected  to  pay  when  able.  The 
children  attend  the  public  schools.  Supported  by  voluntary 
endowment,  contributions,  income  from  endowment  and  chil- 
dren's board.     Visiting  day,   Saturday. 

At  131st  St.,  somewhat  to  the  east  of  Amsterdam  Ave., 
betw.  Convent  Ave.  and  St.  Nicholas  Ave.,  is  the  Convent 
of  the  Sacred  Heart,  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  known  con- 
vent schools  in  the  country.  It  accommodates  about  300 
girls. 


344  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

At  131st  St.  and  Amsterdam  Ave.  is  the  /.  Hood  Wright 
Memorial  Hospital,  with  a  capacity  of  50  beds,  and  free  dis- 
pensary treatment  given  to  the  worthy  sick  poor. 

At  135  St.,  east  of  Amsterdam  Ave.,  is  the  Orphan's 
Home  and  Asylum  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church,  or- 
ganized 1852,  receiving  100  orphans  and  half-orphans  from 
3  to  8  years  old. 

Betw.  136th  and  138th  Sts.,  extending  from  Amsterdam 
Ave.  to  Broadway,  is  the  Hebrew  Orphan  Asylum,  incor- 
porated in  1832,  accommodating  1250  Hebrew  orphans  and 
half-orphans  of  both  sexes. 

From  138th  to  140th  sts.  on  Amsterdam  ave.  is  the  *College 
of  the  City  of  New  York  (commonly  known  simply  as  "City 
College")  (Broadway  subway  to  137th  St.,  walk  i  block  E. 
and  I  block  N, ;  surface  cars  on  Amsterdam  Ave.  or 
on  Broadway  to  138th  St.,  walk  i  block  E.),  founded  1847  as 
the  Free  Academy.  It  is  part  of  the  public  educational  sys- 
tem of  the  City. of  New  York,  with  free  tuition,  and  is  the 
largest  school  under  municipal  control  in  the  world.  It  has 
about  7000  students  and  235  instructors,  and  costs  about 
$250,000  a  year  for  its  maintenance. 

The  buildings  cost  about  $4,000,006.  They  were  designed  by  George 
B.  Post  and  are  on  a  fine  example  of  bold  and  vigorous  collegiate  Gothic. 
The  architect  was  unusually  successful  in  adapting  mediaeval  design 
to  the  practical  requirements  of  a  modern  school.  The  black  rock 
quarried  from  the  hill  was  used  for  building  material  in  combination 
with  terra-cotta.  The  main  building,  facing  N.  E.  on  St.  Nicholas 
Terrace,  is  impressive  in  its  huge  segmental  sweep  of  front,  its  sguare 
tower  and  tall  buttressed  flanks.  It  contains  a  well-proportioned 
Assembly  Hall,  175  ft.  by  90  ft.,  with  a  large  mural  painting,  f'Gradua- 
tion,"  by  E.  H.  Blash field.  The  bell  in  the  tower  weighs  3^  tons.  The 
Historical  Museum  contains  a  collection  of  rare  prints  and  maps  of  old 
New  York.  A  tablet  erected  by  the  Sons  of  the  Revolution  commemo-. 
rates  the  battle  of  Harlem  Heights.  The  library  contains  25^000  volumes. 
The  Chemical  Laboratories  are  especially  complete  in  equipment.  The 
arrangement  of  the  tower  of  the  Power  House  is  excellently  harmonized 
with  the  general  design  by  being  projected  from  the  wall  and  being 
incorporated  at  the  base  in  an-  entrance  porch.  Each  of  the  minor 
buildings  has  its  distinguishing  features,  all  in  harmony  with  the 
general  scheme.  The  block  southeast  of  the  college  grounds  has  re- 
cently been  purchased  by  an  admirer  of  the  college  and  presented  to 
the  city  for  an  Athletic  Field  for  the  students. 

On  the  W.  side  of  this  section,  on  Broadway,  the  Monte- 
fiore  Home  formerly  extended  from  138th  to  139th  Sts.  It 
has  recently  removed  to  Gun  Hill  Road,  near  Jerome  Ave., 
Bronx   (p.  388). 

Betw.  150th  and  151st,  is  one  of  the  city  buildings  of  the 
Hebrezv  Sheltering  Guardian  Society.  The  Reception  House 
is  at  507  W.  1 55th St.  The  society  admits  Jewish  orphans, 
half-orphans  and  destitute  children,  both  sexes,   from  7  to 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS      *  345 

10  years  old.     About  a  thousand  children  are  in  the  Pleas- 
antville  Colony,   New  York,  under  self-government. 

At  147th  St.,  in  the  park  space,  is  a  tablet  erected  by  the 
Washington  Heights  Chapter,  Daughters  of  the  American 
Revolution,  marking  American  Intrenchment  No.  i,  con- 
structed across  the  Heights,  Sept.,  1776,  used  in  the  fight  with 
the  British  frigates,  Sunday,  Oct.  27, 1776,  and  agLin  in  defense 
of  the  Heights,  Nov.  16,  1776. 

At  152nd  St.  and  Riverside  Drive,  one  block  W.  of  Broadway,  in 
the  Kiosk  or  Pergola,  is  a  tablet  erected,  in  1912,  to  the  memory  of  the 
U.   S.  sailors  of  the  New  Hampshire,  drowned  in  tne  Hudson  in   1909. 

From  153rd  to  155th,  from  Amsterdam  to  Riverside 
Drive,  cut  by  Broadway,  is  Trinity  Church  Cemetery  (PI.  XI — 
A6)  opened  1843.    The  gates  are  open  from  8  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

Among  its  many  graves,  that  of  most  general  interest 
is  where  Aiidubon  the  naturalist  is  interred.  It  is  visible 
through  the*  155th  St.  gateway. 

The  grave  is  marked  by  a  monument,  consisting  of  a  lofty  brown- 
stone  cross  resting  on  a  pedestal  of  gray  limestone,  erected  in  1893  by 
subscriptions  rais^  by  the  New  York  Academy  of  Science.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  pedestal  is  a  sculptural  portrait  of  the  naturalist  in 
low  relief. 

Besides  the  grave  of  Audubon,  the  East  Division  contains:  Dean 
E.  A.  Hoffman  (Lot  Nos.  19-20);  Gen.  Striker  (Lot  No.  40);  Mayor 
Fernando  Wood  (Lot  No.  217).  Western  Division:  Gen.  John  A. 
Dix,  remembered  for  his  historic  phrase,  "If  any  man  attempts  to  haul 
down  the  American  flag,  shoot  him  on  the  spot"  (Lot  No.  477A) ;  also 
his  son.  Rev.  Morgan  Dix,  for  many  years  Rector  of  Trinity  Church; 
Philip  Livingston,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
(Lot  No.  796) ;  Clement  C.  Moore,  who  wrote  "The  Night  Before 
Christmas"  (Lot  No.  1168);  Bishop  Wainwright  (I^t  Nos.  557-80); 
Col.  John  Jacob  Astor  (Lot  No.  827);  Madame  Jumel  (Lot  No.  498; 
her  first  husband  is  said  to  be  interred  in  St.  Patrick's  Churchyard, 
Mott  St.) 

The  N.  W.  cor.  of  the  Eastern  division  is  occupied  by  the 

*Chapel   of   the   Intercession    (Trinity    Parish),    an    English 

Gothic  edifice  of  trap  rock,  erected  in  1914  from  designs  by 

Cram,  Goodhue  and  Ferguson. 

The  first  chapel  of  this  name  was  founded  by  the  Audubons  and 
Morewoods  and  stood  at  the  cor.  of  Audubon  Ave.  and  154th  St. 
The  second  structure  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  or  third  building. 
The  present  ^roup  includes  (on  the  east)  the  Trinity  Cemetery  Parish 
House,  containing  a  great  play-room,  or  grynmasium,  a  billiard-room, 
reading  and  entertainment  rooms,  a  cooking  school,  etc.  Upstairs  is  the 
Sunday  school  hall,  with  a  capacity  of  800  pupils. 

Notable  among  the  decorations  of  the  Chapel  is  the  fine  seated 
figure  of  Christ,  in  the  tympanum  (by  Lowrie,  who  also  did  all  the 
other  important  figures).  At  the  eastern  end  the  vaulted  ceiling  is 
blue,  studded  ytiih  golden  stars,  emblematic  of  the  Heavenly  Kingdom. 
In  the  center  are  three  stars  of  the  greatest  magnitude,  representing 
the  Trinity.  The  smaller  stars  contain  emblems  of  the  Archangels — 
Michael,  Raphael,  Gabriel  and  Uriel — ^and  of  the  Evangelists — Matthew, 


346  '     RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Mark,  Luke  and  John.  (Thomas  Bull,  artist.)  On  the  south  side  is 
the  Morning  Chapel,  recalling  in  design  the  chantries  of  Winchester 
and  Ely,  England.  The  mural  painting  above  the  altar,  representing 
the  Visitation  of  the  Magi,  is  by  Taber  Sears. 

A  bronze  tablet,  by  Charles  R.  Lamb,  was  placed  in  the  wall  of 
the  Parish  House  in  1915,  to  make  the  site  of  the  redoubt  of  the 
American  army  erected  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  . 

155th  St.  was  the  extreme  northerly  limit  of  the  plan  of 
the  city  in  1807.  * 

At  Broadway,  between  155th  and  156th  sts.,  in  Audubon 
Park,  is  a  highly  important  and  architecturally  attractive 
group  of  four  buildings:  The  American  Geographical 
Society,  The  Hispanic  Society  of  America,  The  American 
Numismatic  Society,  and  the  Spanish  church  of  Our  Lady 
of  Hope,  To  these  will  soon  be  added,  in  the  S.  E.  cor.  of 
the  grounds,  a  fifth  building  already  in  the  course  of  erection, 
and  incorporated  as  The  Museum  of  the  Amexican  Indian 
(Heye  Foundation).  The  architect  of  all  these  buildings  is 
Charles  P.  Huntington. 

The  ^American  Geographical  Society  building  (adm.  free ; 
9:00  a.m.,  5:00  p.m.)  contains  a  permanent  exhibition  of 
ancient  maps  and  globes,  temporary  exhibitions  of  current 
interest  and  an  extensive  library  of  geographical  literature. 
The  latter  includes  45,000  books,  40,000  maps  in  sheets,  and 
hundreds  of  atlases,  ancient  and  modern.  The  library  is 
available  to  accredited  students  for  reference.  Apply  at  the 
desk  for  a  card. 

In  the  main  exhibition  room,  near  the  entrance,  are  two  full- 
length  portraits:  I.  Paul  Belloni  du  Chaillu,  presented  by  the  artist, 
Mrs.  C  de  Cosse  Conger;  2.  Henry  M.  Stanley,  presented  by  SeHor 
Angel  Ortez.  Near-by,  under  glass,  hangs  the  Map  used  by  Von  Hum- 
boldt in  exploring  South  America  in  1798.  It  contains  h[s  autograph. 
Elsewhere  on  the  walls  are  numerous  facsimiles  of  ancient  maps,  that 
have  been  issued  from  time  to  time,  eitl\er  by  the  American  Geograph- 
ical Society  or  the  Hispanic  Society. 

History:  The  American  Geographical  Society  was  founded  in 
1852,  and  formerly  located  at  No.  15  W.  8ist  St.  Its  early  presidents 
include  the  following  distinguished  men:  i.  George  Bancroft;  2.  Dr. 
Franklin  L.  Hawks,  who  accompanied  Commodore  Perry  to  Japan;  3. 
Henry  Grinnell;  4.  Chief  Justice  Charles  P.  Daly;  5.  Hon.  Seth  Low; 
6.  Robert  E.  Peary. 

The  building  of  the  *Hispanic  Society  of  America  is 
situated  on  the  155th  side  of  the  grounds,  about  200  ft.  W.  of 
Broadway.  The  main  facade,  which  faces  the  N.,  consists  of 
engaged  Ionic  columns,  cornice  and  parapet,  with  a  project- 
ing entrance  portico,  surmounted  by  a  pediment.  When  com- 
pleted it  will  be  200  ft.  long.  The  material  of  the  building  is 
Indiana  limestone,  steel,  brick  and  terra-cotta.    No  wood  has 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  347 

been  employed,  the  purpose  being  to  make  the  structure  abso- 
lutely fireproof.  The  frieze  of  both  the  front  and  rear  facades 
is  engraved  with  the  names  of  Columbus,  Cervantes,  Camoens, 
Loyola  and  other  famous  men  of  the  Hispanic  races. 

The  Society  was  founded  in  May,  1904,  and,  according;  to  its 
constitution,  its  chief  purposes  are:  i.  The  establishment  of  a  free 
public  library,  museum  and  educational  centre;  2.  Advancement  of  the 
study  of  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  languages,  literature  and  history, 
and  advancement  of  the  study  of  the  countries  wherein  Spanish  and 
Portuguese  are  or  have  been  spoken  languages;  3.  To  promote  the  public 
welfare  by  actively  advancing  learning,  and  providing  means  for  encour- 
aging and  carrying  on  the  before-mentioned  work  within  the  State  of 
New  York;  also  oy  issuing  publications  from  time  to  time,  and  by 
otherwise  doing  such  things  as  may  be  necessary  fully  to  accomplish 
its  work. 

In  other  words,  the  Hispanic  Society  is  not  to  be  regarded  pri- 
marily as  a  Museum  or  as  a  Special  Reference  Library  but  as  an 
institution  which,  while  including  those  and  other  purposes,  aims  in 
its  broadest  sense  to  create  a  center  for  the  stimulation  of  interest  and 
dissemination  of  knowledge  of  all  kinds  regarding  Spain,  Portugal  and 
Latin  America. 

The  Library  is  open  from  lo  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  daily, 
Sundays  and  holidays  excepted.  It  is  strictly  a  reference 
library,  and  no  one  under  any  circumstances  can  remove 
books,  maps  or  other  material  for  outside  use.  The  privileges 
of  the  library  are,  in  theory,  limited  to  holders  of  cards  that 
have  been  issued  by  the  Librarian  upon  personal  or  written 
application  and  after  endorsement  by  a  responsible  intro- 
ducer ;  practically,  however,  the  library  is  quite  free :  and  any 
visitor  of  satisfactory  appearance  and  manners  will  be  ad- 
mitted without  question,  and,  furthermore,  will  receive  most 
courteous  treatment  and  efficient  aid. 

The  collection  of  books  contained  in  the  library  numbers  about 
90,000,  having  almost  doubled  within  the  last  eight  years.  It  is 
especially  rich  in:  i.  Works  relating  to  Spain  and  her  colonies,  and 
also  to  all  lands  which  in  thcS  past  were  owned  by  Spain  or  Portugal; 
2.  Works  bearing  upon  the  early  history  and  discovery  of  America  (in 
many  languages);  3.  A  full  and  complete  collection  of  the  leading 
Spanish  poets;  4.  An  extensive  collection  of  Spanish  bibliography. 
Special  emphasis  should  be  laid  upon  the  fact  that  this  library  is  uni<^ue 
in  the  completeness  of  its  collections  of  the  leading  Spanish  classics. ' 
It  claims,  tor  instance,  to  possess  a  copy  of  every  known  edition  of 
Don  Quixote.  From  time  to  time  the  Society  announces  special  public 
exhibits  of  books  after  the  manner  of  exhibits  shown  in  the  New  York 
Public  Library;  but  with  this  distinction,  that  while  those  held  in  the 
Public  Library  are  largely  loan  exhibits,  those  of  the  Hispanic  Society 
are  drawn  exclusively  from  their  own  stacks. 

Upon  entering  the  building,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in 
a  square  and  somewhat  dimly  lighted  vestibule.  On  R.  and 
L.  stairs  ascend  to  the  floor  above,  containing  the  gallery  of 
classic  paintings.  Beyond  the  stairs,  on  L.,  is  the  private 
office  of  the  Acting  Manager;  on  R.,  a  small  room  formerly 


348  RIDER^S  NEW  YoIrK  CITY 

used  by  readers  until  the  completion,  in  1915,  of  the  spacious 
and  well-lighted  reading  room  adjoining  the  Museum  on 
the  W.  Directly  facing  the  entrance  is  the  doorway  af  the 
Museum.  To  the  R.  of  it,  on  the  vestibule  wall  is  a  bronze 
bas-relief  of  the  late  Collis  P.  Huntington,  father  of  the 
founder,  to  whose  memory  the  building  is  dedicated  (Bela 
Pratt,  sculptor)  ;  on  the  L.,  very  badly  lighted,  a  splendid 
♦painting  of  the  Crucifixion,  by  Jimenez  Aranda,  "Consum- 
matum  est.** 

Passing  through  the  door,  we  enter  the  Exhibition  Room, 
a  spacious  chamber,  98  ft.  in  length  by  40  ft.  in  width,  and 
35  ft.  in  height,  completely  surrounded  by  a  balcony  and 
lighted  by  skylights.  The  architecture  of  the  room  is  Spanish 
Renaissance ;  and  the  visitor  should  note  that  on  the  keystone 
of  each  arch  supporting  the  balcony  is  an  escutcheon  bearing 
the  arms  of  one  of  the  Provinces  of  Spain. 

The  original  purpose  of  the  collections  contained  in  the  Museum 
was  to  furnish  for  the  use  of  special  investigators  in  the  library  con- 
crete examples  of  the  arts  and  crafts  of  Spain  at  various  epochs.  The 
collection,  however,  rapidly  outgrew  the  original  design,  and  has  de- 
servedly taken  its  place  as  one  of  the  foremost  art  exhibits  in  New 
York.  The  collection  proper  includes:  paintings;  wood-carving;  silver- 
work;  ironwork;  Neolithic  pottery;  Phenician,  Roman  and  Arabic  carv- 
ing, sculpture  and  pottery;  objects  of  domestic  use;  Hispano-Moresque 
metallic  glazed  pottery,  etc.;  Buen  Retiro,  Alcora  and  Talavera  ware; 
glazed  tiles  (azulejos);  Roman  mosaics;  a  lar^e  collection  of  Spanish 
incunabula;  some  Latin  and  Hebrew  manuscripts  and  manuscripts  of 
George  Borrow  and  of  Robert  Southey. 

In  the  gallery  to  the  east  of  the  reading  room  are  marble 
tombs  of  Gothic  and  Renaissance  ecclesiastical  sculpture. 

The  *collection  of  paintings,  though  small,  is  one  that  no 
visitor  to  New  York  can  afford  to  overlook.    Special  mention 

should  be  made  of  the  SoroUas*. 

In  the  Gallery.  North  Wall:  i.  Juan  de  ValSs  Leal  (1630-91),  Via 
Crucis:  a-8.  Spanish  Primitives,  Panels  of  an  Altar  Piece;  9-1 1.  Spanish 
Primitives  (9.  St.  Gregory  Enthroned;  10.  Altar  Piece  in  Six  Panels; 
II.  St.  Gregory  Saying  Mass);  12.  Juan  Antonio  Escalante  (1630-70), 
The  Annunciation. 

East  Wall:  13-16.  El  Greco  (i 545-1 61 4)  (13.  Saint  Jerome;  14. 
Pieta;  15.  Christ;  16.  Holy  Family);  17.  Francisco  de  Preboste  (1578- 
1631),  Holy  Family;  18.  Jorge  Manuel  TheotocopuU  (1578-1631),  Jesus 
in  the  House  of  Simon;  19.  Jusepe  de  Ribera  (1588-1656).  The  Ecstasy 
of  Mafy  Magdalene;  20.  Ribera,  Saint  Paul;  21.  Murtllo  (?),  The 
Child  Jesus  as  the  Good  Shepherd;  22.  Murtllo  (?),  The  Vision  of 
Saint  Francis;  23.  Luis  de  Morales,  Holy  P'araily. 

South  Wall:  26.  Juan  Carreno  de  Miranda  (161 4- 168 5),  Assump- 
tion of  the  Holy  Virgin;  27.  Vicente  Ldpes  y  Portafla  (i 772-1 850), 
Portrait  of  Ferdinand  VII.;  28.  Alonco  Sanches  Coello  (15 15-1590), 
Portrait  of  Rudolph  II.,  Emperor  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire;  29. 
Antonis  Mor  Van  Dashorst  (?),  Portrait  of  Margaret  01  Austria, 
Duchess  of  Parma;  30.  Bartolomi  Gons&les  (1564-1627),  Portrait  of 
Philip  III.;  31.  Artist  Unknown,  Portrait  of  Isabella  of  Portugal, 
Empress  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire  and  Queen  of  Spain;  32.  Juan  de 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  349 

Pareja  (?)  (i 606-1 670),  Portrait  of  Don  Alonzo  Mora  y  Villalta  of 
Malaga,  Knight  of  Santiago;  33.  Artist  Unknown,  Portrait  of  a  Spanish 
Lady;  34.  School  of  Veldzquez,  Portrait  of  Maria  of  Hungary,  Empress 
of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire;  35.  Carreho  de  Miranda,  Portrait  of 
Charles  II.;  36.  Mvrandf^  (?),  Portrait  of  a  Spanish  Lady;  37.  Mi- 
randa (?),  Portrait  of  Philip  IV.;  38.  Francisco  de  Zurbaran  (159^ 
1662),  Portrait  of  a  Carthusian  Monk. 

West  Wall:  39.  Francisco  Goya  y  Lucientes  (i 746-1 828),  Sketch 
for  Scenes  of  May  3,  1808;  40.  Diego  Veldzques  de  Silva  (i  599-1660), 
Portrait  of  a  Cardinal  (probably  Camillo  Pamfili) ;  41.  Goya,  Portrait 
of  the  Duchess  of  Alba;  42.  Goya,  Portrait  of  Don  Alberto  Foraster; 
43.  Vel&zquee,  Portrait  of  the  Count-Duke  of  Olivares,  Prime  Minister 
of  Philip  IV.;  44.  Murillo  (?),  Portrait  of  a  man;  45.  Antonis  Mor 
Van  Dashorst,  Portrait  of  the  Duke  of  Alba;  46.  Rubens  (?),  Portrait 
of  Isabel  de  Borbon  Queen  of  Spain;  47.  Pareja^  Portrait  of  Don 
Martin  de  Leyva;  Veldzquez,  Portrait  of  a  Little  Girl  (granddaughter 
of  the  artist?). 

On  the  main  floor:  ^ 

West  End  of  room,  on  columns  supporting  balcony:  49.  Sorolla, 
Portrait  of  His  Majesty,  Alfonso  XIII  (autographed  by  the  King) ;  50. 
Sorolla,  Portrait  of  Her  Majesty,  Victoria  Eugenia. 

West  Wall:  51.  School  of  Carren  de  Miranda,  Portrait  of  Charles 
II.  when  a  child;  52.  Goya  (?),  Portrait  of  a  Woman;  53.  School  of 
Murillo,  The  Child  Jesus  with  a  Crown  of  Thorns;  54.  Murilla  (?), 
The  Child  Jesus  as  the  Shepherd;  55.  School  of  Murillo,  Portrait  of  an 
Unknown  Man;  56.  M.  Viladrich,  Portrait  of  a  Spanish  Peasant;  57. 
Viladrich,  Portrait  of  a  Franciscan  Monk;  58.  Artist  Unknown,  Clourt 
Group,  including  Philip  11. ;  59.  Artist  Unknown,  Portrait  of  a  Man; 
60.  (joya  (?),  Portrait  of  a  Young  Girl;  61.  School  of  Murillo,  Saint 
Francis;  62.  Viladrich,  Portrait  of  a  Man;  63.  Eugenio  Lucas  (1824- 
70),  Carnival  Scene;  64.  Lucas,  Victims  of  War;  65.  L.  Barrau,  Por- 
trait of  Don  Pablo  Bosch  y  Barrau;  66.  School  of  Murillo,  Portrait  of 
a  Child;  6j.  Francis  Lothrop,  Portrait  of  the  Panter;  68.  Daniel  Du- 
monstier.  Portrait  of  Philip  III.,  King[  of  Spain;  69.  School  of  Murillo, 
Head  of  a  Street  Urchin;  70.  Francisco  la  Vega,  Coronation  of  Don 
Carlos  Borbon  as  King  of  the  Two  Sicilies;  71.  Anglada  Camarasa, 
Charcoal  Drawing;  72.  Henry  Humphrey  Motore,  No  Rose  Without  a 
Thorn;  73.  Francisco  Domingo  y  Marques,  Portrait  of  the  Artist; 
74-82.  Spanish  Primitives. 

Modern  Spanish  School.  This  part  of  the  collection  is  not,  hung  in 
the  ordinary  way,  upon  the  walls,  but  framed  in  a  series  of  hinged 
screens  which  fold  back  into  cabinets  built  into  the  south  wall.  Some 
of  these  cabinets  are  single  and  some  double;  in  the  former  the  screens 
are  four  deep,  in  the  latter  only  two  deep.  The  attendant  will  unlock 
the  cabinets  upon  request.  The  cabinets,  from  R.  to  L.,  contains  the 
following  pictures: 

First  Cabinet:  Screen  i.  Sorolla,  Portrait  of  Don  Vicente  Blasco 
Ibanez;  Sorolla,  Portrait  of  the  Marques  de  la  Vefira-Inclan;  Screens 
2-4  and  rear  wall:  Martin  Rico  (1850-1908),  Eighty  Sketches. 

Second  Cabinet:  Screen  i  (right).  A.  de  la  Gandara,  Portrait  of 
Madame  Y.;  (reverse)  R.  Madrazo,  Morel  Fatio;  A,  Weir,  Francis 
Lathrop  \Sonza  Pinto,  An  Interior;  Madrazo,  Recuerda  de  la  Capilla  de 
Seville;  Screen  2.  Madrazo,  Henry  Vignaud;  Madrazo,  R.  Foulche 
Delbose;  Madrazo,  Bartolome  Mitre;  Fortuny,  Portrait,  copied  from 
Original  by  Goya;  (Reverse.)  F.  Domingo,  Portrait  of  Artist's  Mother; 
Emtlio  Sala,  A  Woman;  F.  Domingo,  The  Studio  of  Goya;  Domingo, 
Notables;  Domingo,  A  Sketch;  Sala,  Four  studies.  Screen  i  (left), 
A.  de  B cruet e.  Landscape;  Palette  of  Emilio  Sala;  Sala,  Portrait  of 
Ram6n  de  Campoamor;   Screen  2.  A.  de  Beruete   (1846-1912),   Segovia, 


350  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

from  the  Boceguillas  Road;  Beruete,  Bridge  of  Alcantara;  Berueie, 
VMew  of  the  Guadarama  Mountains;  (reverse)  Fortuny,  Six  Paintings; 
Rear  Wall:  Ignacia  Zuloaga  (1870-),  Family  of  a  Gypsy  Bull  Fighter; 
Zuloaga,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  Pedro  Ribera,  Portrait  of  the  Artist. 

Third  Cabinet:  Screen  i.  Illuminated  Royal  Charter,  1283;  Illum- 
inated Royal  Charter,  1385;  Screens  2-4.  Sorolla^  Sketches  for  the 
Painting  of  Columbus.  Rear  Wall:  Sorolla,  Portrait  of  Don  Aureliano 
de  Beruete;  Sorolla,  Portrait  of  Don  Marcelina  Menendez  y  Pelayo. 

Fourth  Cabinet:  Screen  i.  (right V  Sorolla.  Maria  and  her  Grand- 
mother; Sorolla,  Portrait  of  Benito  Perez  Galdos;  (reverse)  Sorolla, 
The  Peppers;  Sorolla,  Don  Raimundo  de  Madrazo;  Screen  2.  Sorolla, 
Senora  de  Sorolla;  (reverse)  Sorolla,  Rocks  of  the  Cape,  Javea;  Sorolla, 
Cathedral  and  Gate  of  Santa  Maria,  Burgos;  Screen  i  (left).  Sortolla, 
Portrait  of  the  Painter;  ^orc^/Zo,  Portrait  of  Jose  Echegaray;  (reverse) 
Sorolla,  Antoine  Garcia;  Sorolla,  Chandler  Robins;  Screen  2.  Sorolla, 
Le  Due  de  Loubet;  Sorolla,  Jos6  Gestoso  y  Perez;  Sorolla,  Orange 
Garden;  (reverse)  Sorolla,  Jose  Ramon  Melida;  Sorolla,  Manuel  B. 
Cossio;  Sorolla,  Hou^of  Greco  in  Toledo.  Rear  Wall:  Sorolla.  Leon- 
ese  Peasants. 

Fifth  Cabinet:  Screen  i.  Three  Ancient  Maps:  i.  Vesconde  de 
Maiolo,  1512;  2.Bartolomeo  Olives,  1552;  3.  S.  Petrus  Roselli,  1468; 
(reverse)  Pinelli,  Portrait  of  Jose  de  Medrazo;  Medrazo,  Sketches; 
Francisco  Prudilla  y  Ortez,  Sketches;  Screens  2-4.  {Daniel  Urrahiete) 
Vierge  (1851-1904),  Sketches;  Screen  4  (reverse),  Frederico  de  Madraso 
(1815-94),  Young  Man;  Madrazo,  Portrait  of  Senor  D.  Pedro  de 
Madrazo.  Back  Wall:  Madraso,  S.  M.  Isabel,  Queen  of  Spain;  Ma- 
drazo, S.  M.  Don  Francesco  de  Asis,  King  of  Spain;  Madrazo,  El 
Hi  jo  de  Colmer,  Arquitecto  de  Palacio;  Madrazo,  Eugenio  de  Ochoa; 
Madrazo,  Dana  Maria  Cristina  de  Borbon,  wife  ^f  Ferdinand  VIII.  and 
mother  of  Isobel  II.;  Portrait  of  Federico  de  Madrazo,  by  his  Father. 

Sixth  and  Seventh  Cabinets  at  present  contain  no  paintings.  They 
are  occupied  by  old  manuscripts  and  documents,  chasuoles  -  and  proces- 
sional banners;  also  an  interesting  collection  of  Spanish  lace. 

The  *American  Numismatic  Society  (adm.  free;  10 
a.m. — 5  p.  m. ;  Sundays  i  p.  m. — 5  p.  m.)  Permanent  ex- 
hibition and  temporary  exhibits  of  current  interest. 

Floor:  wall  cases  contain  specimens  of  contemporary  medalic  art, 
arranged  according  to  artists  and  nationalities.  Swinging  cases  at  the 
four  columns  contain:  S  W.  coiumn:  British  war  medals  and  honorary 
orders,  including  Order  of  the  Star,  the  Garter,  the  Bath,  the  Victoria 
Cross,  etc.  S.  E.  column:  French  decorations,  including  the  pre- 
Revolutionary  orders  of  St.  Louis,  of  Merit,  of  the  Floly  Ghost,  several 
medals  relating  to  the  French  Revolution,  the  badge  worn  by  members 
of  the  National  Assembly,  and  other  later  orders.  This  case  also  con- 
tains German  decorations,  Holland,  Belgium,  Danish,  Norweigian  and 
Swedish.  N.  E.  column  case  contains  Papal  orders,  decorations  from 
Spain,  Portugal,  Russia,  Balkan  States,  Turkey,  African  States,  China, 
Japan,  Persia,  etc.  N.  W.  column  case  is  devoted  to  American  medals 
and  insignia:  Congressional  Medal  of  Honor  for  Army  and  Navy,  Good 
Conduct  and  Service  Medal,  Civil  War  medals  awarded  by  states  and 
cities,  Mexican  war  medals,  Spanish  War  medals  and  the  insignia  of 
the  various  hereditary  societies,  Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  and  a|l  the 
Revolutionary  and  Colonial  societies.  The  floor  cases  contain  specimens 
of  early  shell  money,  Chinese  paper  money  as  early  as  1368,  early  types 
of  money  preceding  coins,  etc.  The  balcony  contains  collections  of 
coins  of  all  nations,  from  the  earliest  Greek,  some  600  B.C.,  to  the 
present  time      All  exhibits  are  clearly  labeled. 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  35i 

The  Society  issued  in  1909  a  noteworthy  Hudson-Fulton  Medal 
(designed  by  Emil  Fuchs)y  distributed,  in  gold,  to  the  heads  of  the 
eight  foreign  nations  which  sent  war  vessels  to  the  Hudson-Fulton 
Celebration;  and  in  silver  and  bronze  to  guests,  both  foreign  and  native. 

On  156th  St.  ^  half-block  from  Broadway  is  the  *Spanish 
Roman  Catholic  Church  of  Our  Lady  of- Esperanza,  stand- 
ing on  an  elevation. 

A  charming  structure,  in  adapted  Italian  renaissance  order  of  archi- 
tecture, designed,  like  the  rest  of  the  group,  by  Charles  P.  Huntington. 
The  windows  and  rich  interior  decorations  are  by  Caryl  Coleman. 
At  the  entrance  are  two  windows,  one  on  either  side,  illustrating 
Motherhood:  i.  Mary  returning  from  Calvary,  leaning  on  the  arm  of 
John  the  Beloved;  2.  St.  Monica,  Mother  of  St.  Augustine,  in  her  last 
conversation  at  Ostia.  The  six  large  windows,  of  renaissance  glass, 
represent  respectively:  i.  The  Annunciation;  2.  The  Visitation;  3.  The 
Nativity;  4.  The  Adoration;  5.  The  Presentation;  6.  The  Marriage  Feast 
at  Cana.  The  four  windows  looking  into  the  sanctuary  represent  the 
four  archangels,  Michael,  Gabriel,  Raphael  and  Uriel. 
*  The  fourteen  Stations  of  the  Cross  are  by  Henry  Day.  The  high 
altar  is  of  Sienna  marble  and  mosaic.  Note 'the  Sanctuary  Lamp,  pre- 
sented by  Aphonso  XIII.  The  two  smaller  chapels  each  contain  a 
painting  by  a  leading  Spanish  artist,  one  by  Sorolla,  one  by  Madrazo. 

At  159th  St.,  on  Broadway,  is  a  tablet  erected  by  the  Mary  Wash- 
ington Colonial  Chapter,  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution,  mark- 
ing the  third  line  of  entrenchments,  thrown  up  by  the  American  troops. 

XIII.  Northern  Manhattan — Northern  Section 

(From  i6oth  Street  to  Spuyten  Duyznl,  225th  Street) 

The  lower  part  of  this  section  is  built  up  with  apartment 
houses,  growing  more  scattered  toward  the  north.  The  high, 
wooded  land  at  the  N.  W.  is  Inwood  Hill.  The  chief  objects 
of  interest  are:  The  Jumel  Mansion,  the  bridges  crossing  the 
Harlem  river,  Fort  Washington  Park  and  Isham  Park. 

The  *  Jumel  Mansion   (PI.  XI — B6)   is  at  i6oth  st.  and 

Jumel  Place.     (Broadway  subway  to  157th  st.  walk  3  blocks 

N.  and  E.  Surface  cars,  Third  ave.  Fort  George  line  to  i6oth 

St.,  walk  I  block  E.)     W.  H.  Sheldon,  curator.     History  of 

the  house,  25c.    Open  free,  9  to  5  daily. 

Built  about  1765  by  Lieutenant  Roger  Morris.  Washington's 
headquarters  from  .Sept.  14  to  Oct.  19,  1776,  during  which  time  the 
battle  of  Harlem  Heights  took  place  (p.  xxiii).  After  the  fall  of  Fort 
Washington  (p.  xxiii)  it  was  occupied  first  by  the  British  Lieutenant- 
General  Sir  Menry  Clinton  and  later  by  the  Hessian  commanders. 
After  the  war  it  became  an  inn  and  was  the  scene  of  a  famous  dinner 
given   Washington   and   his  cabinet   in    1790. 

Stephen  Jumel,  a  wealthy  French  wine  merchant,  bought  the  place 
in  1810.  From  181S  to  1826  he  and  his  wife  were  abroad  in  France 
and  the  house  was  rented.  His  wife  returned  in '1826  and  he  two  years 
later.  Jumel  died  in  1832,  and  the  following  year  his  widow  mar- 
ried Aaron  Burr.  The  two  soon  separated.  Mrs.  Jumel  was  eccentric, 
and  during  the  later  part  of  her  life  undoubtedly  unreliable  in  her 
stories  of  high  life.  To  her  vivid  imagination  are  due  the  many  legends 
of   the    Bonapartes   which    cluster   about   this   house.      After    her    death 


352  RIDER^S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

the  house  was  occupied  by  a  niece,  who  married  Nelson  Chase.  The 
married  life  of  this  couple  was  in  reality  a  sordid  enough  affair,  and  the 
romantic  stories  of  litterateurs  and  wits  entertained  by  them  seem  to 
be  as  untrue  as  those  of  Mrs.  Jumel's  time.  Unauthenticated  legend 
has  it  that  Halleck  wrote  here  his  "Marco  Bozzaris" — the  very  rock 
on  which  he  composed  is  pointed  out.  After  the  death  of  the  Chases, 
the  house  changed  htinds  several  times  and  was  finally  purchased  by 
the  city  for  $235,000.  It  is  now  a  museum  under  the  Washington 
Headquarters  Association  of  New  York  and  the  Society  of  the  Daugh- 
ters  of   the   American   Revolution. 

The  Court  Martial  Room  (called  by  Mrs.  Jumel  the  Council 
Chamber)  at  the  rear  of  the  first  floor  is  furnished  in  charming  old 
mahogany.  With  this  room  is  connected  the  legend  of  the  sachems 
of  the  five  Iroquis  nations  who  offered  their  allegiance  to  Washington. 
The  Guard  Room,  first  floor,  L.,  contains  a  rare  collection  of  Revolu- 
tionary objects  dug  up  in  the  neighborhood  by  Reginald  Pelham  Bolton 
and  Mr.  Calver.  The  Dining  Room,  first  floor,  R.,  contains  the  famous 
William  Lanier  Washington  Collection  of  Washingtoniana.  Mr.  Wash- 
ington is  a  descendant  of  Gen.  Washington's  brother.  Miniatures  of 
his  ancestors  are  in  the  collection.  The  Tea  Room,  first  floor,  front  L.,» 
contains  antiques.  On  the  second  floor,  in  the  Hall,  is  a  copy  of  the 
Colonial  flag  used  by  Washington  the  two  and  a  half  years  preceding 
the  making  of  Betsy  Ross's  flag.  It  is  the  English  flag  with  red  and 
white  stripe  substituted  for  the  English  plain  red.  In  a  case  in  the 
front  of  the  hall  is  a  small  flag  made  by  Betsy  Ross's  granddaiighter. 
The  same  case  contains  a  British  army  blanket.  In  the  Burr  Roomh, 
second  floor,  front,  W.,  is  an  old  Southier's  map  showing  the  house. 
In  the  Lafayette  Room,  second  floor,  W.,  is  one  of  the  famous  Lafayette 
gloves.  Washington's  Bedroom  and  Office  contains  relics.  On  the 
third  floor  are  three  interesting  rooms  arranged  to  show  the  processes 
of  candle-dripping,  spinning,  and  quilting.  In  the  grounds  at  the  rear 
is  the  Eleventh  Milestone  originally  at  170th  st.  and  Broadway. 

Twelve  bridges  cross  the  Harlem  river,  Spuyten  Duyvil 
Creek  and  Harlem  Ship  Canal.  From  S.  to  N.  they  are : 
Willis  Ave.  Bridge,  from  First  ave.  and  125th  st.  in  Manhat- 
tan, to  Willis  ave.  and  134th  st.  with  second  approach  from 
133d  St.  and  Brown  Place  in  the  Bronx.  Elevated  Railroad 
Bridge  (PI.  XI — C7)  from  Second  ave.  and  129th  st.  to 
Lincoln  ave. ;  footpassage  and  railroad  only.  Third  Ave. 
Bridge  (PI.  XI — C7)  from  Third  ave.  and  129th  st.,  with 
second  entrance  from  130th  st.  and  Lexington  ave.  to  3rd 
ave.  and  136th  st.  New  York  Central  R.  R.  Bridge  (PI.  XI 
— C7)  from  Park  ave.  and  133d  st.  to  Park  ave.  and '138th 
St.;  railroad  only.  Putnam  Railroad  Bridge  (PI.  XI — B6) 
from  8th  ave.  and  157th  st.  tp  Sedgwick  ave.  and  i6ist  st. ; 
foot  passage  as  well  as  railroad.  Next  to  the  north  is  the 
Madison  Ave.  Bridge  (PI.  XI — B7)  from  Madison  a  e. 
and  137th  St.  to  Cromwell  ave.  and  138th  st.,  with  entrance  also 
from  138th  St.  and  5th  ave.  145TH  st.  Bridge  or  Lenox  Ave. 
Bridge,  from  Lenox  ave.  and  145th  st.  to  Exterior  st.  and  149th 
St.;  McComb's  Dam  Bridge  or  Central  Bridge  (PL  XI — B6) 
from  St.  Nicholas  ave.  and  155th  st.  to  Jerome  ave.  and  i62d 
St.,  with  another  approach  from  161  st  st.  and  Cromwell  ave. 


T' 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  353 

(6th  or  9th  ave.  el.  to  155th  st.  Change  to  Ogden  ave.  surface 
cars,  which  cross  Central  Bridge,  proceed  north  and  cross 
back  to  Manhattan  by  Washington  Bridge.  To  visit  High 
Bridge  take  Amsterdam  ave.  surface  car  south  from  Wash^ 
ington  Bridge.  The  bridge  has  viaduct  approaches  from  each 
side.  The  name  comes  from  the  old  McComb's  Dam  which 
crossed  the  river  near  this  point  (PI.  XI — B5). 

The  Speedway,  reached  fr.  the  155th  st.  Viaduct,  starts 
here  and  runs  north  3  miles,  with  95  ft.  width  of  roadway  and 
a  total  width  including  sidewalks  of  from  125  ft.  to  150  ft. 
Nearly  5  years  were  spent  in  its  construction,  and  it  cost  the 
city  $3,000,000.  Fast  horses  are  exercised  here,  and  fine  speci- 
mens of  both  trotters  and  pacers  can  be  observed. 

♦High  Bridge  (PI.  XI — B5)  most  easily  reached  by  3d  and 
Amsterdam  ave.  surface  cars  to  I72d  st.,  from  near  Amster- 
dam ave.  and  about  174th  st.  (not  cut  through)  to  Aqueduct 
ave.  and  170th  st. ;  foot  passage  only.  This  granite  bridge 
1460  ft.  long,  of  13  arches,  carries  the  pipes  of  the  first  Croton 
Aqueduct,  roofed  over  to  form  a  foot  bridge,  116  ft.  above  th« 
river.    It  was  built  in  1842. 

High  Bridge  Park  (PI.  XI — B5)  continued  in  Fort  George 
Park,  extends  along  the  Manhattan  side  of  the  river  above 
the  Speedway  from  about  i6oth  st.  to  Dyckman  st.  At  the 
Manhattan  approach  to  High  Bridge  is  the  Reservoir  and 
Water  Tower.  From  the  east  terrace  of  the  Reservoir 
one  obtains  a  fine  *View  of  the  Bronx.  The  upper  gallery  of 
the  Water  Tower  is  404  ft.  above  the  river.  Permission  to 
ascend  must  be  obtained  from  the  office  of  the  Water  Com- 
missioner in  the  Municipal  Building. 

N.  W.  of  the  Putnam  Railroad  Bridge  on  the  Manhattan 
side  are  the  Polo  and  Baseball  Grounds. 

♦Washington  Bridge  (PI.  XI— B5),  from  Amsterdam 
ave.  and»  i8ist  st,  to  Aqueduct  ave.  and  I72d  St.,  (reached  by 
Broadway  subway  to  i8ist  st.,  walk  E.  i^  blocks;  Third  and 
Amsterdam  ave.  surface  cars  from  Park  Row ;  6th  or  9th  ave. 
elevated  to  155th  st,  thence  by  Washington  Bridge  surface 
cars.  The  two  latter  routes  passing  through  the  Bronx, 
approaching  the  bridge  from  the  Bronx  side. 

This  is  a  beautiful  cantilever  bridge,  2,390  ft.  long  and  86  ft.  wide. 
Each  of  the  two  steel  arches  has  a  span  01  510  ft  and  a  height  of 
13s  ft.  The  cost  was  $2,700,000.  At  the  west  end  of  the  bridge, 
Amsterdam  ave.,  betw.  181st  and  i82d  st,  is  a  fountain  and  memorial 
tablet  erected  in  memory  of  Andrew  Jackson  by  the  National  Society, 
U.  S.,  Daughters  of  181 2. 

The  remaining  bridges  are  less  impressive:  University 
Heights   Bridge  of   Fordham    Bridge    (PI.   XI — B3),    from 


354  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

W.  207th  sL,  to  184th  St.  Farmers'  Bridge,  Dyckman, 
Free,  or  Queen's  Bridge  (PI.  XI— B3),  across  Spuyten 
Duyvil  Creek  from  223d  St.,  West  Kingsbridge  Road. 
Built  first  in  1759  to  avoid  the  tolls  at  King's  Bridge. 
Destroyed  by  retreating  American  forces  in  1776,  rebuilt  by 
Hessians,  again  destroyed  in  1778.  Later  rebuilt.  King's 
Bridge  (PI.  XI — B22),  across  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  at  Broad- 
way and  230th  St.,  established  by  Royal  Grant  of  William 
and  Mary  to  Frederick  Philipse  in  1603.  First  built  20  yds. 
to  the  east  Rebuilt  on  present  side  in  1713.  Destroyed  after 
Washington's  retreat  1776,  rebuilt  by  Hessians,  abandoned  by 
Hessians  and  rebuilt  as  pontoon  bridge  to  the  west.  Rebuilt 
on  present  site  after  the  Revolution.  Foot  Bridge  (PI.  XI — 
B2>,  across  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  just  west  of  King's  Bridge; 
foot  passage  only.  Harlem  Ship  Canal  Bridge  (PI.  Xl — 
B3),  across  Harlem  Ship  Canal  at  Broadway  and  221st  st. 
The  subway  crosses  here.  Spuyten  Duyvil  Bridge  (PI.  XI — 
A3),  where  the  Harlem  Ship  Canal  joins  the  Hudson  River 
is  a  railroad  bridge.    Here  a  fine  Memorial  Bridge  is  planned. 

Leaving  the  Harlem  River  side  of  the  island  and  going 
north  along  the  westerly  section  there  are  several  points  of 
minor  interest:  At  163d  st.  and  Fort  Washington  ave.,  is 
the  New  York  Institution  for  the  Instruction  of  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb,  founded  in  1870.  DeWitt  Clinton  was  its  first 
president.  4554  have  been  enrolled  between  its  founding 
and  1913.    It  accommodates  500  pupils. 

The  school  is  free  to  all  deaf  children,  of  both  sexes,  over  5  years, 
living  in  the  state,  regardless  of  their  parents'  circumstances.  Children 
from  other  states  are  charged  tuition.  Lip-reading  and  articulation 
are  taught.  The  course  of  study  is  equivalent  .to  that  of  common 
schools  and  academies,  with  mechanical  trade  teaching  and  cooking 
for  both  boys  and  girls.  Gymnasium  instruction  is  provided.  The 
boys  are  given  military  drill.  Supported  by  state,  counties,  and 
voluntary   contributions. 

At  165th  St.  and  Broadway  is  Audubon  Theatre  ^Pl.  XI 
— B5),  with  a  seating  capacity  of  2,300. 

At  i68th  St.  and  Fort  Washington  ave.  is  the  Armory  of 
the  22nd  Regiment  (PI.  XI— B5). 

Fort  Washington  Park  (PI.  XI — As)  lies  betw.  River- 
side Drive  and  the  Hudson  from  171st  st.  (not  cut  through)  '^o 
i8ist  St.  (Broadway  subway  to  i8ist  st.,  walk  E.  to  Riverside 
Drive  and  S.  to  park  entrance.)  This  height  is  the  highest 
land  on  the  island,  being  270  ft.  above  tide  water.  The  three 
forts,  Fort  Washington,  Fort  Tryon  and  Fort  George,  with 
parallel  lines  of  entrenchments  stretching  across  the  Island, 
formed  the  Revoluticfnary  defences  of  this  part  of  Manhat- 
tan,  All  3  forts  were  taken  by  the  British,  Nov.  16,  1776.    A 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  355 

boulder  monument  on  the  height  in  the  park,  erected  by  the 
Fort  Washington  Chapter,  Daughters  of  the  American  Revo- 
lution, marks  a  redoubt  well  preserved.  The  peninsula,  now 
called  Fort  Washington  Point,  was  formerly  Jeffrey's  Hock. 
Ships  were  sunk  in  the  river  here  to  impede  the  progress  of 
the  British.  Directly  across  the  river  was  Fort  Lee,  which 
could  be  reached  by  boat.  Fort  George  to  the  E.  was  con- 
nected by  a  road. 

After  Washington's  withdrawal  to  White  Plains,  following  the 
Battle  of  Harlem  Heights  (p.  255),  the  Hessians  attacked  Fort  Wash- 
ington, containing  a  garrison  of  3,000  men  and  officers.  The  fort 
surrendered  after  a  nercely  fought  battle.  Numerous  Revolutionary 
x'elics  have  been  dug  up  from  181st  to  187th  sts. 

To  the  S.,  at  179th  st.  and  Fort  Washington  ave.,  is 
tiolyrood  Protestant  Church,  containing  a  tablet  erected 
by  the  Mary  Washington  Colonial  Chapter,  Daughters  of 
the  American  Revolution,  in  commemoration  of  Margaret 
Corbin,  who  took  her  husband's  place  in  the  battle  when  he 
was  wounded. 

To  the  N.  of  i8ist  st.,  in  Bennett  st.,  was  Death  Gap,  a  strategic 
point  in  the  battle,  where  the  Americans  hurled  down  boulders  upon 
the  ascending  enemies. 

At  183rd  St.  and  Fort  Washington  ave.  is  a  marble  seat  and  tablet 
erected  b^  James  Gordon  Bennett  under*  the  auspices  of  the  Empire 
State  Society,  Sons  of  the  American  Revolution,  and  the  American 
Scenic  and  Historic  Preservation  Society,  marking  the  exact  site  of 
Fort  Washington.     Traces  of  the  earthworks  are  visible. 

To  the  north  is  the  estate  of  C.  K.  G.  Billings,  with  its  large  house 
and  beautiful  grounds.  The  house  lies  betw.  Fort  Washington  and 
Riverside  Drive.  The  stables  are  on  the '  east  side  of  the  ave.  The 
smaller  brown  stone  house,  built  like  a  castle,  near  the  stables  was 
built  in  1864  by  Wm.  Alexander  Richards,  later  occupied  by  Wm.  M 
Tweed,  and  afterward  by  W.  L.  Libbey,  the  partner  of  A.  T.  Stewart. 
It  is  now  a  part  of  the  Billings  estate.  To  the  north  of  the  Billings 
house  is  the  site  of  Fort  Trvon.  A  tablet,  set  in  the  rock  at  the  side 
of  the  north  entrance,  visible  from  the  street,  was  erected  by  Mr. 
Billings  under  the  auspices  of  the  American  Scenic  and  Historic 
Preservation   Society.     Heavy  fighting  took  place  at  this  spot. 

To  the  N.,  near  the  end  of  the  ave.,  is  the  Abbey  Inn 
(PL  XI — A4)   on  the  height.     The  ave.  curves  about  here, 

offering  a  fine  *View  of  Inwood. 

The  Entrance  to  the  Subway  at  190th  st.  and  Broadway  differs 
from  the  others.  The  subway  runs  under  St.  Nicholas  ave.  to  the 
east,  at  the  level  of  Broadway,  which  traverses  the  lower  slope  of  the 
elevation.  The  station  was  reached  by  tunnelling  from  Broadway 
under  the  hill,  forming  an   underground   street. 

At  190th  St.  and  Amsterdam  ave.,  to  the  W.  of  Broadway,  is  the 
Isabella  Heimath,  "For  the  gratuitous  care  of  aged  persons,  chronic 
invalids,  and  convalescents,"  without  distinction  of  sex.  creed,  or 
nationality,  males  over  65  and  females  over  60,  established  by  Oswald 
Ottendorfer,  for  many  years  owner  and  editor  of  the  New-Yorker 
Staats-Zeitung.    The  home  has  172  beds. 

Fort  George  Amusement  Park  (PI.  XI— B4)  (Broadway 
subway  to  190th  st.,  walk  up  Fort  George  ave.  at  rear  of  Park ; 


356        ,  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

or,  surface  cars  marked  "Fort  George,"  every  2nd  car  on  the 
3rd  and  Amsterdam  ave.  line  running  from  Post  Office  through 
Park  Row  to  Bowery,  to  3d  ave.,  to  125th  st.,  to  Manhattan 
St,  to  Amsterdam  ave.,  to  195th  st.)  is  on  the  site  of  the 
Revolutionary  fortification.  The  casino  stands  on  the  site  of 
the  old  fort.  After  the  surrender  to  the  British  in  the  attack 
on  Fort  Washington,  it  became  a  British  camp  and  was  occu- 
pied by  British  and  Hessians  from*  1777  to  1783  under  the 
name  of  Camp  of  Laurel  Hill.  The  park  now  contains  merry- 
go-rounds,  wheels,  scenic  railways,  and  shows.  Fine  views 
can  be  obtained  from  here.  To  the  east,  the  Hariem  river, 
with  its  bridges  (pp.  331-33)  and  the  Bronx;  northeast.  Marble 
Hill;  north,  the  upper  part  of  Manhattan  Island  with  Marble 
Hill,  and  Inwood;  west.  Forts  Tryon  and  Washington. 

IsHAM  Park  (PI.  XI — B3)  is  reached  by  the  Broadway 
subway  to  Dyckman  st.  Walk  back  down  Broadway  the  distance 
of  about  two  blocks,  passing  on  the  R.  the  Marble  Arch  erect- 
ed in  recent  years  as  an  entrance  to  Marble  House  on  the  hil] 
behind.  This  large,  ungainly  structure  was  built  by  Mr.  Sea- 
man, a  builder. 

At  215th  St.  a  double  flight  of  Stairs  with  lights  has  been 

erected,  connecting  the  lower  and  upper  levels. 

The  Twelfth  Mile  Stone  has  been  built  ^nto  the  wall  at  the 
entrance  to  Isham  Park.  The  entrance  is  exceedingly  modest.  A 
small  brick  lodge  on  the  bank  marks  it.  There  is  at  present  no  car- 
riage or  motor  entrance.  The  house  is  about  80  ^ears  old,  of  no 
particular  beauty,  but  set  in  the  midst  of  a  charming  lawn,  with  a 
delightful  view  of  Inwood  Hill  and  the  Hudson  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Ship  Canal.  Tea  may  be  obtained,  served  on  the  veranda.  From 
the  front  one  sees  in  the  Bronx,  from  N.  to  S.,  the  Catholic  Orphan 
Asylum  (p.  362);  Webb  Shipbuilders'  Academy  (p.  363 '^;  and  New 
York  University.  Later  the  house  will  be  furnished  as  a  museum  by 
some  of  the  antiquarian  societies  A  pleasant  family  garden  is  kept 
up.  The  spot  is  historically  connected  with  Indians.  It  was  a  haunt 
01  the  Weck-quas-keeks,  and  many  Indian  relics  which  have  been 
disintered  will  be  on  exhibition  in  the  house.  The  land  was  first 
owned  by  Tobias  Teunissen,  ^  a  Dutchman,  who  was  killed  W  the 
Indians  in  1665  and  his  family  carried  into  captivity.  The  Hessian 
army  moved  over  the  Park  in  the  attack  on  Fort  Washington.  The 
land  and  residence  were  purchased  by  IVilliam  B.  Isham  in  1862.  In 
191 1  the  house  with  six  acres  was  given  to  the  city  for  a  Park  by 
Mrs.  Julia  Isham  Taylor  in  memory  of  her  father.  The  next  year. 
Miss  Flora  E.  Isham  added  several  acres  to  safeguard  the  views. 

An  interesting  side  trip  may  be  made  to  the  Cold  Springs 
or  Spouting  Spring,  which  is  supposed  to  have  given  the  name 
to  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek.  It  may  be  most  conveniently 
reached  by  continuing  down  Broadway  S.  of  Isham  Pk.  pass- 
ing at  Hawthorne  Ave.  the  old  Dyckman  house,  the  second 
(or  perhaps  third),  residence  of  one  of  the  leading  local 
families,  whose  name  is  preserved  in  Dyckman  St  This 
house  dating  from  1787  is  considered  a  typical  speciman  of  the 


WASHINGTON  HEIGHTS  357 

colonial  farm  dwellings  in  northern  Manhattan.  It  has 
recently  been  repaired.  Note  especially  the  old  chimney  on 
the  S.  side. 

At  Academy  St.  we  turn  W.  to  Seaman  Ave.,  where  in  1907 
some  excavations  in  a  market-garden,  unearthed  the  buttons  of  several 
British  regiments,  as  well  as  Indian  graves,  weapons  and  stone  imple> 
ments,  proving  that  this  spot  was  successively  an  Indian  village  and 
a  British  camp.  The  spot  lies  in  the  triangle  formed  by  Seaman  and 
Prescott  Aves.  Turning  N.  on  the  latter  some  150  ft.  we  reach  on  the 
W.  a  steep  woodland  path  ascending  in  a  zig-zag  line.  It  leads 
through  woods,  over  the  hill  and  down  into  a  valley,  known  as  the 
Clove,  thence  northward  along  the  shore  of  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek. 
Here  we  reach  a  clearing,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  the  one  conspicuous 
landmark,  a  huge  Tulip  tree,  6V^  ft.  in  diameter,  the  largest  on  Man- 
hattan Island.  It  has  grown  up  through  an  ancient  Indian  shell-heap, 
as  any  visitor  may  prove  to  his  own  satisfaction  by  scraping  the 
surface  and  noticing  the  histre  of  unearthed  fragments.  Note  the 
inscription  placed  on  it  in  191 2  recording  the  age  of  the  tree  and 
history  of  the  locality.  About  200  ft.  S.  is  an  interesting  Indian  Rock 
Dwelling,  supposed  to  have*  been  occupied  by  tribes  prior  to  their 
scattering  by  the  Mohawk  Indians  in  1673.  I'he  relics,  including 
pottery,  tools,  etc.,  are  preserved  in  the  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
Indian  Room,  case   i. 

The  United  States  Ship  Canal  (PI.  XI — A — B3)  con- 
structed by  the  government,  was  cut  through  Marble  Hill  at 
the  extreme  northern  point  of  Manhattan  Island  on  the  line 
of  two  little  brooks  running  east  and  west,  which  had  been 
enlarged  into  a  small  canal  in  18 17.  to  make  a  channel  from 
the  Hudson  to  the  Harlem  River.  Vessels  drawing  nine  feet 
of  water  can  pass  .from  the  Hudson  to  the  Sound  without  the 
necessity  of  going  around  the  Battery,  a  saving  of  20  m. 

The  canal  cuts  off  Marble  Hill  (PI.  XI — A3)  from  the 
rest  of  Manhattan,  forming  a  small  island.  This  elevation  is 
the  site  of  the  Revolutionary  Fort  Prince  Charles,  an  earth- 
work begun  by  the  Americans  and  completed  by  the  Hessians 
after  their  occupation  of  Fort  George.  A  flag  pole  at  the 
corner  of  Marble  Hill  ave.  and  228th  st.  marks  the  site  of  the 
redoubt. 


THE   BRONX 

I.     Introductory 

The  Borough  of.  the  Bronx  (see  p.  xv),  like  the  river, 
takes  its  name  from  Jonas  Bronck  who  settled  near  Bronx- 
kills  in  1639.  It  includes  Spuyten  Duyvil  (PI.  XI — A2), 
Riverside  (PI.  XI— Ai),  Kingsbridge  (PL  XI— B2),  Mott 
Haven  (PI.  XI — C7),  Morrisania  (PI.  X— C5),  West  Farms 
(PI.  XI— D4),  Westchester  (PL  XI— D5),  Eastchestcr, 
Fordham  (PL  XI — B3),  Williamshridge,  City  Island  (PL 
A — F2),  and  other  villages  which  once  had  their  own  govern- 
ment. The  Bronx  is  traversed  by  several  lines  of  sur- 
face cars,  by  the  Elevated  Railroad  (p.  ^z)^  by  the  Subway 
(p.  31),  and  by  the  New  York  Central  and  the  New  York, 
New  Haven  &  Hartford  railroads  (p.  38).  The  parks  and 
driveways  are  the   chief  objects   of  interest  in  this   section. 

History.  The  land  comprising  the  Borough  of  the  Bronx 
was  in  early  times  inhabited  by  the  Sewanoe  tribe  of  the 
Mohican  Indians;  and  manj'  of  the  early  titles  acquired  by 
settlers  date  back  to  purchases  from  Indian  Sachems.  The 
first  white  settler,  Jonas  Bronck,  erected  near  the  Bronx  Kills, 
in  1639,  a  house  which  he  christened  Emmaus,  and  which, 
in  1642,  was  the  scene  of  the  signing  of  a  treaty  of  peace  with 
the  Indian  Sachems.  The  earliest  community  settled  in  the 
Bronx  was  .  Westchester  Village,  originally  called  by  the 
Dutch  Wost-Dorp,  and  probably  dating  » from  1650.  The 
site  was  acquired  from  the  Indians  in  1654  by  Thomas  Pell, 
whose  purchases  comprised  about  10,000  acres. 

The  earliest  settlers  were  Dutch.  The  English  soon  fol- 
lowed, and  many  of  their  first  titles  were  granted  by  Gov. 
Nicolls.  Among  them  was  the  unfortunate  Ann  Hutchinson 
who  settled  near  Pelham  Bay  in  1642  and  whose  family  was 
wiped  out  by  an  Indian  massacre. 

The  Morris  family  came  into  prominence  at  the  time  of 
the  Revolution,  their  local  memory  being  retained  in  that  sec- 
tion of  the  Bronx  known  as  Morrisania.  Lewis  Morris,  one 
of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  attached 
his  signature  at  a  time  when  a  British  fleet  lay  in  the  waters 
just  S.  of  his  home  in  the  lower  Bronx.  This  Borough  is 
full  of  memories  of  the  War  of  Independence,  the  dreaded 
Neutral  Ground  extending  from  King's  Bridge  northward 
into  Yonkers.  The  battle  of  Westchester  Creek  and  the 
battle  of  Pell's  Point  are  only  two  of  the  many  engage- 
ments in  this  region.  The  later  history  of  the  Bronx  is  com- 
paratively uneventful.       The   western   portion   was   annexed 


THE  BRONX— INTRODUCTORY         ^       359 

in  1874,  and  the  remainder  in  1895.  It  is  estimated  that  the 
present  population  of  the  Borough  is  equivalent  to  that  of 
the  State  of  New  Hampshire. 

Topography.    The  Bronx  is,  in  the  main,  laid  out  on  the 
same  checker-board  plan  as  Manhattan,  but  with  much  less 
regularity.    The  numbering  of  the  cross-streets  continues  quite 
regularly  on  the  W.  side  up  to  262d  st.     (near  the  Yonkers 
line).    In  the  eastern  portion  the  numbering  and  spacing  are 
much  more  erratic,   the  northernmost   street  being  242d  st. 
In  many  localities  streets  dart  off  at  queer  angles,  preserving, 
as  in  the  case  of  Greenwich  Village  in  Manhattan,  the  memory 
of   the  original   villages.     The  only  one   of  the  numbered 
avenues  of  Manhattan  that  is  continued  N.  of  the  Harlem  is 
3d  ave.,  which  extends  to  Pelham  ave.,  near  Bronx  Pk.    Other 
important     thoroughfares     are     the     following:       Jerome 
Ave.,  beginning  at  McComb's  Dam  Bridge  (PI.  XI — B6)  and 
running  north  to  the  city  line,  passes  Jerome  Park  Reservoir 
(154  m.  by  I  m.)  with  a  capacity  of  2,000,000  gallons,  a  part 
of   the   Croton   Water    System    (PI.    XI— B2).     Westchester 
Ave.  runs  from  3d  ave.,  at  E.   150th  st.,  N.  E.   across  the 
Bronx  River,  through  Westchester  Square,  the  site  of  West- 
chester Village    (p.  390),  across  Westchester   Creek  to  the 
Eastern  Boulevard  at  Pelham  Bay  Park.   Boston  Post  Road 
runs  from  3d  ave.  at  E.  164th  st.  N.  K,  through  Bronx  Park, 
through  Eastchester  (p.  391)  to  the  city  line.    Also  important 
is  the  Southern  Boulevard,  which,  starting  at  3d  ave.,  runs  at 
first  nearly  due  E..  then  pursues  an  irregular  course  N.  and 
N.  W.,  ending  at  Bronx  Pk.     It  passes  through  a  crowded 
district  of  much  activity,  with  many  shops  and  places  of  amuse- 
ment, and  suggests  a  sort  of  modernized  lower  East  Side. 

Parks  and  Parkways.  The  Grand  Boulevard  and  Con- 
cX)URSE,  180  ft.  wide,  uniting  Manhattan  and  the  parks  in  the 
N.  part  of  the  Bronx,  begins  ^t  the  corner  of  Mott  ave.  and 
i6ist  St.  (PI.  XI— C6),  and  extends  thence  (4^^  m.)  to  the 
Mosholu  Parkway. 

The  principal  parks  are  Van  Cortland  Park  (PI.  XI— i), 
1 132  acres,  adjoining  Woodlawn  Cenetery  and  connected 
by  Mosholu  Parkway  with  Bronx  Park  (PL  XI— D3),  719 
acres,  which  is  in  turn  connected  by  Bron.v  and  Pelham  Park- 
way with  the  huge  Pelham  Bay  Park  (1755  acres),  adjoining 
Long  Island  Sound,  4  m.  to  the  E.  of  Bronx  Park  and  15  m. 
from  the  City  Hall.  Crotona  Park  (PI.  XI— D4),  154  acres, 
lies  to  the  S.  To  the  W.  is  Claremont  Park  (PL  XI— C5), 
3.S  acres,  containing  the  stone  Zborowski  Mansion,  built 'in 
1859,  now  the  headquarters  of  the  Park  Department. 


36o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

II.     From  Central  Bridge  to  Van  Cortlandt  Park 

This  section  is  most  readily  reached  by  6th  or  pth  ave. 
Elevated  Roads  to  155th  st. ;  change  to  Jerome  ave.  trolley 
across  Central  Bridge  to  161  st  st.  (as  the  distance  is  com- 
paratively short  a  good  pedestrian  will  find  it  almost  as  quick 
to  walk). 

Central  Bridge  very  nearly  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Macomb's 
Dam  Bridge,  originally  so  called  because  of  the  nearby  dam  built  to 
convert  the  Harlem  River  into  a  mill  pond  and  drive  the  wheels  of  the 
Macomb  mill  at  King's  Bridge.  In  1840  it  was  declared  a  public 
nuisance  and  was  destroyed. 

At  161  st  St.  walk  E.  four  blocks  to  the  beginning  of  the 
Grand  Boulevard  and  Concourse.  Here,  facing  southward, 
stands  the  Heinrich  Heine  Fountain,  by  Ernest  Herter 
(1846—). 

The  monument,  of  white  marble,  consists  of  a  female  figure.  Die 
Lorelei,  heroic  size,  surmounting  a  pillar.  (.^n  three  sides  of  the 
pillar  are  low  reliefs:  i.  Heine;  2.  A  Sphynx  holding  a  Young  Man 
in  her  arms;  3.  A  Young  Ms[n  killing  a  Dragon.  The  pillar  stands  on 
a  large  marble  base,  ornamented  with  various  aquatic  animals.  A  large 
basin  surrounds  the  whole  group.  It  was  presented  by  the  German- 
American  Societies  of  New  York  in  1900. 

Just  N.  of  the  Heine  Fountain  is  a  statue  of  Louis  J. 
Heintz,  "to  commemorate  the  Founding  of  the  Progress  and 
Prosperity  of  the  Bronx." 

Returning  to  Jerome  ave.,  either  walk  or  take  trolley  N. 
to  Featherbed  Lane. 

According  to  tradition,  this  street  gets  its  name  from  an  episode 
of  the  Revolution,  when*the  Americans,  surprised  by  the  British,  were 
rescued  by  the  women  of  the  vicinity,  who  spread  featherbeds  along 
the  lane  and  deadened  the  noise  of  the  retreat. 

One  block  W.  on  Featherbed  Lane,  cor.  of  Macomb's 
Road,  is  the  Townsend  Poole  cottage,  dating  from  1782.  The 
date  is  affixed  on  the  stone  wall  in  iron  figures,  reading  back- 
wards. This  cottage  was  for  ^  time  the  lodging  house  of  the 
Esquimaux  whom  Lieut.  Peary  brought  from  the  far  North. 
Continue  W.  to  University  ave.  (formerly  Aqueduct  ave.,  be- 
cause for  part  of  its  extent  it  follows  the  line  of  the  old 
Croton  aqueduct).  Here  a  trolley  may  be  taken  northward 
to  the  New  York  University,  removed  here  from  Washington 
sq.  in  1894  (PI.  XI— B4). 

New  York  University 

♦New  York  University,  situated  at  University  Heights, 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Harlem  River,  may  be  reached  in 
a  number  of  different  ways:  Broadway  subway  to  W.  181  st 
St.  change  to  University  ave.  trolley  across  Washington  Bridge 


.  .«»*•>       •<>««r9iMlMPWMI*i^  •  •■*«•»  m-*-     *  ^  ^'^  *  W'^^^  -. 


■«  4«  ■« 


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.--v 


CENTRAL  BRIDGE  TO  VAN  CORTLANDT  PARK   361 

to  comer  of  University  Campus  at  University  ave.  and  181  st 
St.,  Bronx;  or,  Broadway  subway  to  207th  st.,  by  foot  across 
University  Heights  Bridge,  by  private  path  to  the  right,  about 
ten  minutes  walk ;  or,  by  2d  or  3d  ave.  elevated  to  E.  177th  st., 
change  to  trolley,  to  corner  of  University  and  Burnsides  aves. ; 
or,  by  West  Farms  Subway  to  149th  st.,  then  by  trolley  to  cor- 
ner of  University  and  Burnsides  aves.  (For  down-town 
branch  at  Washington  Square,  see  p.  I75) 

The  University  must  not  be  confused  with  the  College 

of   the   City  of   New   York    (p.   344),   which   is   an   entirely 

separate  institution,  situated  on  the  Manhattan  side  of  the 

Harlem  River,  a  couple  of  miles  further  S. 

This  university  was  founded  in  1830  and  was  a  pioneer  in  offering 
training  for  engineers,  architects,  teachers,  and  business  men  on  the 
same  basis  as  classical  training.  When  in  1838  the  law  school  was 
started,  the  idea  that  a  lawyer  could  obtain  his  training  in  any  othet 
way  than  as  clerk  in  an  attorney's  office  was  so  novel  as  to  cause  oppo- 
sition from  some  members  of  the  bar.  Later  on  the  law  school  lapsed 
for  a  few  years.  A  medical  school  was  started  in  184X  in  connection 
with  the  university,  though  not  brought  under  its  full  jurisdiction  for 
many  years.  The  faculty  of  the  medical  school  secured  the  passage  of 
a  legislative  act  in  1853,  legalizing  the  dissection  of  dead  bodiesj  whvch 
up  to  that  time  had  been  held  a  felony.  Although  the  university 
specialized  in  science,  yet  in  the  early  years  the  majority  of  the  gradu- 
ates were  ministers  or  lawyers.  The  present  high  status  of  the  insti- 
tution is  due  to  Henry  Mitchell  MacCracken,  Chancellor  1891-1910. 
Under  his  guidance  the  schools  were  re-organized,  other  schools  were 
opened,  an  endowment  was  raised,  the  new  home  University 
Heights  was  acquired,  buildings  raised,  the  present  eleven-story  building 
on  Washington  Square  put  up,  the  library  enlarged,  and  the  number 
of  students  increased  to  over  four  thousand.  The  university  now  ranks 
twelfth  in  size  among  American  universities. 

The  buildings  on  University  Heights  are  best  known  from 
the  *Hall  of  Fame,  a  circular  granite  colonnade  500  ft.  in  length 
sweeping  around  the  Memorial  Library  and  its  adjacent  halls, 
the  gift  of  Helen  Gould.  On  bronze  tablets  are  placed  the 
names  of  great  American  statesmen,  jurists,  soldiers,  scien- 
tists, septemi,  teachers  and  authors,  the  names  being  selected, 
five  every  five  years,  by  a  committee  of  one  hundred  promi- 
nent persons.  Statues  of  the  men  have  been  placed  above  the 
tablets  in  some  cases.  From  the  Hall  of  Fame  a  fine  Viev/  is 
obtained  of  the  Harlem  River,  the  heights  of  Fort  George, 
Fort  ^  Try  on  and  Inwood  Hill.  A  tablet  on  Chemistry 
Building  commemorates  "Fort  No.  Eight,"  while  about  80 
yards  to  the  S.  W.  a  large  stone  under  a  tree  marks  the  exact 
site  of  the  battery.  Founders'  Monument  on  the  campus  is  built 
of  material  from  the  original  building.  Gould  Hall,  the  dor- 
mitory, is  on  the  E.  of  the  campus.  The  campus  covers  abjut 
40  A.  The  fraternity  houses,  professors'  residences  and  pri- 
vate dwellings  to  the  north  form  a  delightful  suburb. 


u 


362  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

To  the  N.,  the  Webb  Academy  and  Home  for  Ship  Build- 
ers (PI.  XI — B3)  Sedgwick  ave.  and  i88th  St.,  supports  aged 
and  indigent  men  of  the  United  States  who  have  worked  on 
the  hulls  of  ships  or  marine  engines  for  such ;  and  their  lawful 
wives  or  widows;  also  provides  gratuitous  education  in  ship- 
building and  marine  engine  building.  This  institution  was^ 
established  by  the  will  of  W.  H.  Webb,  a  shipbuilder.  On 
the  front  is  affixed  a  figurehead  taken  from  an  old  bark. 

The  large  institution  beyond  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Or- 
phan Asylum  (PI.  XI — B3)  at  Sedgwick  ave.  and  Kings- 
bridge  Road.  It  receives  orphans  between  3  and  10  years  of 
age  and  houses  a  thousand  inmates.  It  is  on  the  site  of 
Revolutionary  "Fort  No.  Five" 

The  asylum  was  organized  in  1817  and>  incorporated  under  its 
present  name  in  1852.  It  formerly  occupied  two  entire  city  blocks, 
north  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  the  building  allotted  to  boys  standing 
on  the  block  between  5th  and  Madison  aves.,  and  that  for  girls  on  the 
block  between  Madison  and  4th  aves. 

University  ave.  ends  at  KingsbridgC  Road,  almost  in  face 
of  the  Fordham  Manor  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  which  re- 
places an  earlier  structure  dating  from  1706.  Here  took  place 
the  funeral  of  Virginia  Poe,  the  wife  of  the  poet;  and  here 
for  a  time  she  lay  buried.  Diagonally  opposite  is  the  Hebrew 
Infant  Asylum  of  the  City  of  New  York  (organized  1832). 

This  institution  is  **for  the. care  of  orphaned  children  of  Jewish 
birth  from  infancy  to  five  years  of  age;  for  those  left  without  proper 
guardianship,  or  with  a  parent  unable  to  care  for  them." 

Continuing  E.  on  Kingsbridge  Road,  we  reach,  at  the 
N.  W.  cor.  of  Jerome  ave.,  a  huge  armory,  now  almost 
completed  (Pile  her  and  Tachau,  architects).  It  is  to 
be  occupied  by  the  8th  Coast  Artillery,  now  at  Park  ave.  and 
94th  St.  The  building,  when  finished  will  be  the  largest  and 
best  equipped  armory  in  the  world. 

The  8th  Coast  Artillery  has  a  long  and  praiseworthy  history.  It 
was  organized  in  1786,  and  is  the  oldest  military  organization  ^n  the 
United  States.  It  served  in  the  War  of  181 2,  the  Civil  War,  and  the 
Spanish  War.  It  performed  service  for  the  State  in  the  Flour  Riot, 
1826;  the  Stone  Cutters'  Riot,  1833;  the  Great  Fire,  1845;  *^®  Astor 
Place  Riot,  1849;  the  Police  Riot,  1857;  the  "Dead  Rabbit''^  Riot,  1857; 
the  Sepoy  Riot,  1858;  the  Draft  Riots,  1863;  the  Orange  Riot,  1877; 
the  Syracuse  Railroad  Riot,  1877;  the  Brooklyn  Street  Car  Strike, 
1895. 

Further  E.,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Boulevard  and 
Kingsbridge  Road  at  1926  st.  is  Poe  Park  (2.3  acres)  and  on 
Kingsbridge  Road,  opposite  the  park,  and  directly  across  from 
the  Poe  memorial,  is  Poe  Cottage  where  Edgar  Allan  Poe 
lived  from  1846  to  1849  and  where  his  invalid  wife,  Virginia, 
died. 


-     CENTRAL  BRIDGE  TO  VAN  CORTLANDT  PARK   363 

It  was  here  that  several  of  Foe's  best-known  poems  were  written, 
including  "Annabel  Lee,"  "Ulalume,"  and  "Eureka."  The  memorial 
in  the  park,  facing  the  cottage,  is  a  Bust  of  Foe,  modeled  by  Robert 
William  Gibson  (1854 — )  and  erected  by  the  Bronx  Society  of  Arta 
and  Sciences  on  the  centenary  of  the  poet's  birth,  January  19,  1909. 

The  visitor  may  now  retrace  his  steps  to  University  ave. 
and  take  a  north-bound  University  ave,  car,  which,  after 
skirting  the  Jerome  Park  Reservoir  (which  occupies  the  site 
of  the  former  famous  Jerome  Park  Race  Track),  curves 
down  hill  to  the  W.,  stopping  within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of 
Van  Cortlandt  Park. 

♦Van  Cortlandt  Park  may  also  be  reached  directly  in 
any  of  the  following  ways:  By  Broadway  subway,  cars 
marked  Van  Cortlandt;  or  6th  or  gth  ave.  elevated  to  I55th 
St.,  change  to  Putnam  Division  of  N.  Y.  C.  R.  R.  The  park 
(1132  acres)  is  now  one  of  the  cit3r*s  chief  playgrounds,  being 
supplied  with  motor  roads,  horseback  roads,  tennis  grounds, 
golf  links,  skating,  ball  fields,  etc.  The  Van  Cortlandt  Man- 
sion near  entrance  from  subway  is  now  a  museum  (free  ex- 
cept Thursday  afternoon,  when  a  charge  of  25c  is  made  and 
tea  served  in  the  Colonial  kitchen).  Open  10  to  5;  on  Sundays 
and  holidays  2  to  5.  The  house  is  under  the  care  of  the 
Colonial  Dames.  ("Historical  Sketch  of  the  Van  Cortlandt 
House,"  25c.  (not  good  as  catalogue  of  its  furniture)  ;  "The 
Story  of  Van  Cortlandt  Park,*'  25c.) 

The  house  was  built  in  1748  by  Frederick  Van  Cortlandt.  An 
inscription  on  the  wall  commemorates  the  fact.  Among  the  distin- 
guished ^ests  entertained  in  this  house  were:  The  Duke  of  Clarence 
(later  JKmg  William  IV),  Rochambeau  and  Washington.  The  latter 
stayed  over  night  at  least  twice:  i.  In  1781,  prior  to  his  setting  forth 
to  Yorktown;  2.  November  12,  1783,  before  crossing  King's  Bridge  to 
enter  New  York.  The  room  he  occupied  on  the  second  floor  is  still 
known  as  the  Washington  Roiom.  During  the  Revolution  the  head* 
quarters  of  the  Hessian  Jaegers  was  situated  here.  One  tragic  scene 
connected  with  the  iiouse  was  the  death  of  Captain  Rowe,  an  officer 
of  the  Jaegers,  who  had  been  mortally  wounded  in  an  engagement  in 
the  Tippett  Valley,  and  who  died  in  the  arms  of  his  betrothed.  Van 
Cortlandt  Lake  dates  .from  1700,  having  been  formed  by  throwing  an 
embankment  across  Tippett's  brook,  called  by  the  Indians  Mosholu. 

The  house  is  built  of  rubble  stone,  with  brick  about  the  windows. 
Above  the  windows  are  corbels,  quaint  carved  faces,  probably  brought 
from  Holland.  Some  of  the  window  panes  look  like  ground  ^lass. 
These  are  the  original  panes,  which  have  changed  from  ordinary 
transparent  glass,  and  remind  one  of  the  old  glass  on  Beacon  Hill, 
Boston,  which  has  turned  purple  in  the  course  of  time.  The  house 
has  been  refurnished  in  ancient  fashion.  The  Parlor,  on  the 
right  of  entrance,  contains  a  fireplace  with  a  curious  iron  back-piece 
representing  the  fall  of  Adam  and  Eve.  The  Dining  Room  across 
the  hall  contains  a  fireplace  surrounded  by  blue  tiles  brought  from 
Holland,  much  pewter  and  oak  furniture.  The  Rear  Room  is>  used 
for  temporary  exhibits.  In  the  Kitchen  in  the  basement,  notice  the 
dresser  filled  with  pewter,  the  three-cornered  china  closet^  the  settle, 
the  flintlock  gun  over  the  fireplace,  and  the  cooking  utensils.     On  the 


364  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

second  floor,  the  bonnet  boxes  in  the  Hall  over  the  cupboard  were 
made  by  hand.  The  Bedrooms  'contain  quaint  clothes,  quilts,  bed- 
steps,  spinning  wheels,  etc.  Notice  the  curious  cradle  marked  "Jacob 
Hopp."  In  the  Grounds  to  the  south  of  the  house  is  a  beautiful, 
formal  Dutch  garden.  Directly  behind  the  house  is  a  statue  of  Major' 
General  Josiah  Porter,  presented  by  the  National  Guard,  State  of  New 
York.  To  the  East  stands  a  portion  of  wall,  enclosing  a  small  barred 
window  from  *'Su£ar-house  Prisqn,'*  an  old  warehouse  formerly  stand- 
ing in  the  citv  in  Duane  street,  built  in  1763,  and  used  by  the  British  as 
a  prison  for  American  soldiers.  It  was  presented  by  T.  J.  Oakley  Rhine- 
lander  to  the  Colonial  Dames.  The  guns  on  either  side  were  found  at 
Fort  Independence,  just  W.  of  Jerome  Park  Reservoir,  and  presented  to 
the  Colonial  Dames  by  William  O.  Giles.  To  the  north  rises  Vault 
Hill,  where  the  family  vault  was  situated.  It  was  in  this  vault  that 
the  City  Records  of  New  York  were  hidden  and  preserved  throughout 
the  Revolution. 

III.  The  Bronx:  Middle  Section 

(From  Mott  Haven  to  Crotona  Park) 

This  excursion,  following  in  the  main  the  line  of  3d  Ave.,  may^  be 
covered  by  a  good  pedestrian  in  about  ij^  hours.  It  offers  few  points 
of  interest  to  the  ordinary  tourist;  but  it  should  appeal  to  the  student 
of  modern  sociological  conditions,  because  it  takes  him  through  the 
heart  of  what  is  probably  the  most  rapidly  developed  business  and 
residential  section  to  be  found  in  any  American  city.  (The  starting 
point  may  be  reached  by  Bronx  Subway,  3d  Ave.  Elevated  R.  R.  or 
Grand  Central  trains  to  Mott  Haven.) 

The  visitor  who  crosses  the  Harlem  River,  by  the  3d 
Ave.  Elevated,  may  look  down  to  the  E.  on  the  extensive 
R.  R.  freight  yards,  formerly  the  site  of  the  home  of  the 
Jonas  Bronck,  whose  name  the  Borough  bears. 

Proceeding  N.  on  3d  Ave.,  we  reach  at  S.  E.  cor.  of 
136th  St.  a  venerable  wooden  mansard-roofed  dwelling,  the 
Mott  Mansion,  once  the  home  of  Jordan  L.  Mott,  founder 
of  Mott  Haven  (1798-1868).  It  is  now  used  as  a  two-tene- 
ment house.  At  140th  St.  we  turn  E.  two  bjocks  to  St.  Ann's 
Ave.,  then  S.  to  St.  Ann's  Episcopal  Church,  erected  in  1840 
by  Gouverneur  Morris  in  memory  of  his  mother,  Ann  Carey 
Randolph  of  Roanoake,  Va.,  a  lineal  descendant  of  Poca- 
hontas. 

The  church  is  a  simple  specimen  of  English  Gothic,  and  stands 
some  distance  back  from  the  street.  In  the  crypt  are  vaults  containing 
the  remains  of  many  distinguished  members  of  the-  family,  including 
Gouverneur  Morris.  The  Gouverneur  Morris  mansion,  only  lately 
destroyed,  stood  at  the  S.  E.,  at  Cypress  Ave.  and  130th  St.  It  was 
from  the  Morris  family  that  the  village  of  Morrisania  received  its 
name. 

Returning  to  3d  Ave.  we  reach  at  146th  St.,  the  Mott 
Memorial  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  an  unpretentious  struc- 
ture in  semi-circular  Gothic,  erected  by  Jordan  L.  Mott  about 
1849.     Three  blocks  further  N.,  where  3d  and  Westchester 


MOTT  HAVEN  TO  CROTONA  PARK  365 

Aves.  intersect,  is  the  center  of  the  Bronx  theatre  and  shop- 
ping district;  also  it  is  the  point  of  transfer  between  the 
Bronx  Park  subway  and  the  3d  Ave.  Elevated  R.  R.  Two 
blocks  E.  on  149th  St.  stands  the  Bronx  Opera  House; 
N.  E.  on  Westchester  Ave.  is  Keith's  Royal  Theatre;  one 
block  W.  on  150th  St.,  cor.  of  Melrose  Ave.,  Keith's  Bronx 
Theatre.  On  the  block  bounded  by  3d.,  Westchester  and  Ber- 
gen Aves.  and  149th  St.,  is  the  extensive  department  store  of 
the  Adams-Flanagan  Co. 

In  the  triangle  formed  by  3d  and  Brook  Aves.  and  161  st 
St.,  stands  the  Bronx  Court  House,  of  Brookville,  Maine, 
granite,  erected  in  1906  from  plans  by  Michael  /.  Garvin. 
Facing  S.  above  the  main  entrance,  is  a  seated  female  figure 
in  granite,  heroic  size,  symbolizing  Justice;  in  her  right  hand 
she  holds  a  sword,  and  in  her  left  is  a  law-code. 

Boston  Road  which  branches  N.  E.  at  164th  St.  brings  us, 
at  i66th  St.,  to  the  Morris  High  School,  an  imposing  struc- 
ture of  buff  brick,  gray  lime-stone  and  white  granite,  occu- 
pying, with  its  adjoining  playground,  the  entire  city  block 
bounded  by  i66th  St.,  Jackson  Ave.,  Hone  St.  and  Boston 
Road. 

The  massive,  square,  Victorian  tower  has  been  much  admired,  and 
forms  a  landmark  which  can  be  seen  for  miles  from  many  parts  of  the 
Bronx.  The  school  contains  two  mural  paintings  by  Edward  W.  Detn- 
ing:  i.  Gouverneur  Morris  addressing  the  Convention;  2.  The  Treaty 
between  the  Indians  and  the  Dutch  at  the  House  of  Jonas  Bronck  in 
1642. 

At  169th  St.,  Boston  Road  passes  McKinley  Square,  in 
the  center  of  which  is  a  triangular  enclosure,  containing  a 
flag-pole  with  tablet,  in  memory  of  the  three  "Martyred 
Presidents,  Lincoln,  Garfield  and  McKinley";  also  a  Civil 
War  mortar  and  cannon  balls  and  a  bronze  tablet  com- 
memorating the  destruction  of  the  Maine  in  Havana  Harbor, 
Feb.  15th,  1898,  the  tablet  being  cast  from  metal  recovered 
from  the  battle-ship. 

One  block  N.,  Crotona  Ave.  branches  off  to  the  L.,  pass- 
ing presently  through  the  middle  of  Crotona  Park  (1545^ 
acres),  a  favorite  Bronx  playground,  containing  tennis  courts, 
croquet  grounds  and  fields  where  base-ball  is  permitted.  On 
the  northern  side  is  the  Crotona  Athletic  Field,  containing 
a  grand  stand.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Board  of  Education, 
and  is  open  to  pupils  of  the  N.  Y.  public  schools  from  9  A.  M. 
to  6  P.  M.  on  Sat,  Sun.  and  Holidays ;  and  from  3  to  6  P.  M. 
on  school  days.  Adjoining  the  N,  W.  cor.  of  the  Park  is  the 
recently  erected  Muncipal  building. 


366  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

IV.  Bronx  Park :  The  New  York  Zoological  Park 

**The  New  York  Zoological  Park  (PI.  XI— D3-4),  the 
most  complete  zoological  park  in  America  and  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  world,  is  located  in  Bronx  Park.  It  is  under  the  manage- 
ment of  the  New  York  Zoological  Society,  although  the  City 
of  New  York  co-operates  in  its  maintenance.  The  net  profits 
from  everything  in  the  park  to  which  a  charge  is  attached 
and  all  admission  fees,  go  toward  the  purchase  of  animals, 
by  special  permission  from  the  city.  The  City  of  New  York 
provides  funds  for  maintenance.  All  other  expenses  are 
borne  by  the  Zoological  Society.  It  is  open  daily  including 
Sundays  from  9  a.  m.  (Nov.  i  to  May  i,  10  a.  m.)  to  half  an 
hour  before  sunset.  Mon.  &  Thurs.,  adults,  25  cents;  chil- 
dren 15  cents;  other  days  free.  Reached  by  Bronx  sub- 
way to  i8oth  St.  or  3d  ave.  elevated  to  Fordham  station.  An 
entrance  is  located  in  each  corner,  Boston  Post  Road  Entrance 
(S.  E.  cor.)  Crotona  Entrance  (S.  W.  cor.),  Fordham 
Entrance  (N.  W.  cor.),  Concourse  Entrance  (N.  E.  cor)  and 
two  others  on  the  E.,  Bronxdale  Entrance  and  Buffalo 
Entrance.  The  concourse,  Bronxdale  and  Boston  Post  Road 
entrances  are  open  to  vehicles.  The  latter  two  are  on  Boston 
Post  Road,  from  which  one  has  a  view  of  the  Buffalo  Range. 
From  the  Concourse  vehicles  may  reach  Baird  Court, 

No  vehicles  are  allowed  in  the  center  of  the  Zoo  where  the 
animals  are  housed.  This  part  must  be  visited  on  foot.  Wheeled 
chairs  may  be  obtained  at  the  entrances  or  at  the  Service  Building 
25  cents  an  hour,  with  attendant  50  cents.  Report  lost  or  found 
children  or  property  at  the  Service  Building.  The  Rocking  Stone  is 
a  large  boulder  so  poised  as  to  be  moved  slightly  by  pressure  on 
the  northern  angle.  Rocking  Stone  Restaurant  is  near  the  bear 
dens.  Boat  house  Restaurant,  on  Bronx  Lake,  182nd  st.  and 
Boston  Road,  serves  a  la  carte  and  table  d'hote  Sunday  antd 
holiday  evenings.  Electric  Launches  make  regular  trips  betw.  the 
Boathouse  and  Bronxdale  Landing;  round  trip,  adults  10  cents, 
children  s  cents.-  Rates  for  three-person  rowboats:  round-bottomed,  3Sc. 
and  flat-bottomed,  35c.  per  hour.    "Guide  book,"  2Sc. 

The  first  building  of  the  New  York  Zoological  Park  was  begun 
in  1898.  The  grounds  contain  204  acres  of  land  and  30  of  water. 
The  animal  collection  numbers  4827  mammals,  birds  and  reptiles.  The 
object  of  th^  society  is  to  secure  herds  of  American  animals  and 
flocks  of  American  birds  and  place  them,  in  ranges  that  will  reproduce 
their  native  haunts,  where  they  will  live  and  breed.  The  unusual 
timber  growth  which  covers  much  of  the  Park  includes  oak,  tulip, 
sweet  gum,  hickory,  beech,  sassafras,  maple,  wild  cherry,  hornbeam, 
dogwood,  tupelo,  hemlock,  cedar,  and  other  species.  In  19 12  the 
number   of   visitors   was    1,708,455.      Curator,    William    T.    Hornaday.     , 

Among  the  smaller  animals  and  birds,  the  locations  in  the  buildings 
are  sometimes  changed  on  account  of  new  specimens,  loss,  change  of 
season,  and  new  buildings,  so  that  while  this  description  follows  the 


BRONX  PARK  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN    367 

general  arrangement,  minor  changes  must  be  allowed  for.  No  attempt 
is  made  in  this  brief  description  to  record  the  many  generous  donors 
to  the  collection. 

Since  the  greatest  number  of  visitors  enter  the  Park 
from  the  Boston  Post  Road  Entrance  near  the  Bronx  Park 
subway  terminus,  the  description  follows  a  course  beginning 
at  that  gate,  passing  soon  to  the  W.,  then  N.  and  returning  S. 
through  the  center  of  the  park.  Visitors  are  warned  not  to 
stand  close  to  the  wire  fences,  as  they  are  elastic  and  a 
charging  animal  is  able  to  deal  a  person  close  by  the  fence  a 
serious  blow.  Feeding  times  are:  Lions  and  Tigers,  2  p.  m. ; 
'Monkeys,  2 130; Wolves  and  Foxes,  3;  Bears,  3.30. 

Soon  after  entering,  the  visitor  ascends  a  few  stone 
steps,  whereupon  the  path  divides  N.  and  W.  Formerl-  there 
was  nothing  of  interest  on  the  lower  path  until  the  Antelope 
House  was  reached.  Recently,  however,  a  new  building  has 
been  erected  connected  with  ranges  for  the  Elahd  (Tauro- 
tragus  oryx);  the  Yak  (Pocphagus  grunniens) ;  and  several 
of  the  larger  birds,  including  the  Ostrich,  the  Emu,  the  Man- 
churian  Crane  and  the  White-Necked  Crane.  It  will  be  found 
more  profitable,  however,  to  turn  N,,  passing  on  the  L.  the 
Bison  Range,  containing  the  American  Bison  or  Buffalo  (Bos 
atnericanus) . 

The  Buffalo  House  is  arranged  so  that  visitors  can  walk  out 
on  the  roof  from  the  upper  path  and  obtain  a  nearer  view  of  the 
animals.  The  herd  numbers  about  40.  The  American  Bison  was 
formerly  found  all  over  the  western  prairies.  The  transcontinental 
railroad  built  in  1867  cut  the  animals  into  two  herds,  both  of  which 
were  rapidly  depleted  by  huntefs.  About  2000  buffaloes  are  protected 
in  private  preserves,  but  of  the  wild  ones  are  left  only  about  20  in 
Yellowstone  Park  and  300  to  the  south  of  Great  Slave  Lake. 

Two  Specimens  of  the  rare  and  almost  extinct  European 
Bison  (Bos  bonasus)  were  acquired  from  a  small  captive 
herd  in  the  forest  of  the  Prince  of  Pless  in  Silesia,  Germany. 
One  of  these  still  survives  in  the  corral  near  the  Buffalo 
entrance. 

N.  of  the  Bison  Range  is  the  Lydig  Memorial  Arch, 
designed  by  Heins  and  La  Farge. 

The  gateway  consists  of  two  massive  pillars,  surmounted  by  an . 
arch  of  ornamental  wrought-iron  work.  It  was  erected  in  memory  of 
Philip  Mcsicr  Lydig  and  Catherine  Suydam  Lydig  by  their  daughter, 
Florence  Lydig  Sturgis,  in  1903.  The  inscription  explains  that  "These 
lands  became  the  home  of  the  Lydig  family  A.  D.  1802,  and  by  them 
these  forests  were  preserved  and  protected  until  acquired  by  the  city, 
A.  D.  1888." 

Following  the  path  to  the  W.  through  the  Lydig  Arch, 


368  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Mountain  Sheep  Hill  lies  to  the  North.     This  piece  of  rock 

turf,  with  shade  and  rock  caves,  is  an-  ideal  home  for  the 

animals. 

The  hill  is  divided  into  six  enclosures,  containing  usually:  Suleiman 
Markhor;  Arcal  Mountain  Sheep  iOvis  cycloeros),  inhabiting  the  moun- 
tains of  northern  India,  Tibet,  Afghanistan,  Beleuchistan  and  southern 
Persia  (in  small-deer  house  in  winter) ;  the  Monflon  (^Ovis  musimon) 
or  Wild  Sheep  of  Sardinia  (in  small-deer  houses  in  winter);  the 
•  Persian  Wild  Goat;  the  Himalayan  Tahr  (Hermitragus  jemlaicus), 
native  to  the  Himalayas,  but  bred  here  in  diis  park;  the  Aoudad  iOvis 
tragelaphus)  or  Barbary  Wild  Sheep,  native  to  Northern  Africa.  The 
largest  male  was  born  here  in  1902.  At  times  the  Big-horned  Mountain 
Sheep  iOins  canadensis)  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  Burrhel 
(Ovis  burrhel)  from  Northern  India  are  on  exhibition,  but  both  species 
are  delicate  and  do  not  live  long  in  this  climate. 

The  Antelope  House  beyond  Sheep  Hill,  to  the  S.  of 
the  path,  contains  24  compartments,  all  but  one  of  which 
have  their  spacious  yards. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  occupants  is  the  Nubian 
or  three-horned  giraffe  (Giraffa  camelohardalis) ,  which  came 
from  German  East  Africa.  Among  the  antelopes,  the  Eland  (.Tauro- 
tragus  oryx)  is  the  most  interesting.  They  were  formerly  plentiful  in 
Rhodesia  and  other  parts  of  Africa,  but  are  now  almost  extinct.  The 
house  contains  also  the  Leucoryx  Antelope  (Oryx  leucoryx),  from  the 
African  desert,  but  breeding  in  captivity;  the  Beisa  Antelope  {Oryx 
heisa),  with  straight  horns;  the  Beatrix  Antelope  (Oryx  Beatrix),  a  rare 
si)ecies  from  the  Arabian  desert;  the  Sable  Antelope  {Hippotragus 
niger),  a  creature  of  remarkable  beauty;  the  Blessbok  (Damaliscus 
albifrons)t  a  purple  and  white  antelope  formerly  common  in  South 
Africa,  but  now  nearly  extinct;  the  Nilgai  {Portax  tragocamelus) ,  from 
central  Hindustan  and  northern  India.  This  house  contains  also  speci- 
ments  of  the  gnu:  the  White-tailed  Gnu  (Connochaetes  gnu),  formerly 
abundant  in  South  Africa,  and  the  White-bearded  Gnu  (Connochaetes 
albojubatus) ,  found  chiefly  in  German  East  Africa  and  the  southern 
part  of  Uganda.  • 

The  Small-Deer  House  is  beyond  the  antelope  house 
to  the  west,  with  30  compartments,  which  can  be  sub- 
divided into  60  and  34  outside  connecting  corrals.  This 
house  is  specially  adapted  to  the  needs  of  small  animals, 
which  suflFer  from  exposure  and  injury  when  placed  in  the 
ranges. 

These  small  animals  are  usually  short-lived,  but  the  house 
generally  contains  the  following  species:  the  Osceola  White-tailed 
Deer  (Odocoileus  virginianus  osceola),  native  to  the  southern 
part  of  this  country  the  Sinaloa  White-tailed  Deer  (OdocoUeu^ 
sinaloae),  from  Mexico;  the  Marsh  Deer  {Blastoceros  paludosus),  from 
Brazil;  the  Black-faced  Brocket  {Masauma  tema),  a  very  rare  deer 
from  South  America;  the  Hog  Deer  iCervus  porcinus),  from  India, 
beautiful  despite  its  name;  the  Molucca  Deer  iCervus  molucceniis), 
from  East  India  and  extremely  unlike  a  deer:  the  Muntjac  or  Rib- 
faced  Deer  {Cervus  muntjac),  named  from  the  bony  formation-like  ribs 
in  which  its  horns  continue  across  its  face,  and  also  called  the  Barking 
Deer  from  its  curious  cry;  and  the  Musk  Deer  iMoschus  moschiftnU), 
The  small  antelopes  are  represented  by  the  Black-Buck,  or  Sasin  Ante- 
lope iAntihpe  cervicapra),  from  the  central  plains  of  Hindustan;  the 


BRONX  PARK  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN         369 

Reedbuck  iCervicapra  arundinum),  from  South  Africa;  the  Coitlmoii 
Duiker  Antelope  {.Cephalophus  grimmt),  a  very  small  African  antelope; 
the  Four-Horned  Antelope  (Tetraceros  quadricornis) ,  from  India,  with 
an  extra  pair  of  horns;  and  the  Springbuck  iAntidorcas  euchore)^  from 
South  Airica»  named  from  its  habit  of  springing  into  the  air  when 
running.  The  gazelles  are  represented  by  the  I)orcas  Gazelle  (Gajsella 
dorcas),  from  Arabia,  and  the  Indian  Gazelle  (Gasella  benneti)^  from 
the  ravines  '  of  India.  Among  the  unrelated  groups  housed  here  are 
the  wild  swine  and  the  Kangaroos.  The  former  are  represented  by  the  Red 
River-Hog  iPotamochaerus  pencillatus),  a  good-loolcing  West  African 
animal;  the  East  African  Wart-Hog  iPhacochaerus  aethiopicus)^  of 
unprepossessing  appearance,  and  the  Collared  Peccary  iTagassa  angu- 
latum).     The  Kangaroos  and  Wallabies  are  from  Australia. 

The  Prairic-Dog  Village  is  to  the  north  of  the  Small- 
Deer  House.  This  animal  is  also  called  the  Prairie  Marmot 
{Cynomys  ludovicianus) ^  and  is  noted  for  his  happy  disposi- 
tion.   The  village  contains  about  50  inhabitants. 

The  Corral  of  the  Mountain  Goat  is  beyond  the  Small- 
Deer  House  to  the  West.  This  Goat  (Oreamnos  montanus), 
called  also  the  White  Goat,  6r  White  Mountain  Goat,  is  found 
on  high  mountains  scattered  from  southwestern  Montana  to 
Alaska.  Two  of  the  animals  exhibited  were  bred  in  the  park. 
They  properly  belong  on  Sheep  Hill,  but  the  location  is  un- 
suited  to  their  health. 

Turning  from  the  path  we  are  following  for  a  brief 
expedition  along  the  shore  of  the  Wild  Fowl  Pond,  we  find  on 
our  left  the  Pheasants*  Aviary, 

The  collection  includes  the  Amherst  Pheasant  iChrysolophus  am- 
herstiae)t  with  its  enormously  long  tail,  breeding  well  in  captivity;  the 
Golden  Pheasant  (Chrysolophus  pictus)^  native  to  western  and  southern 
China,  but  now  thriving  on  the  western  coast  of  America;  the  Silver 
Pheasant  (Gennaeas  nycthemerus),  originally  of  China,  but  easly  domes- 
ticated; the  Reeves  Pheasant  iSyrmaticus  reevesi) ,  irom  northern  China, 
also  long-tailed;  the  Soemmerring  Pheasant  {Phasianus  soemmerringii) t 
called  also  the  Copper  Pheasant  from  Japan;  the  true  Ring-necked 
pheasant  (P.  ttorquatus),  introduced  into  Great  Britain  and  the  continent 
from  southeastern  Europe  and  Asia  Minor;  the  Argus  Pheasant  {Argus- 
iantts  argus)f  from  the  jungles  of  Borneo,  Sumatra  and  the  Malay 
Peninsula;  and  the  Impeyn  Pheasant  (Lophophorus  impeyanus),  from 
the  heights  of  the  Himalayas.  The  second  story  of  the  aviary  is  de- 
voted to  Doves  and  Pigeons. 

Along  the  edges  of  the  Wild-Fowl  Pond  ducks  and 
geese  build  their  nests,  lay  their  eggs,  and  raise  their 
young. 

Among  the  varieties  are:  the  Mallard  Duck  (Anas  platyshynchos), 
the  drakes  distinguished  by  the  iridescent  green  on  their  heads;  the  Pin- 
tail Duck  (Dafila  acuta),  colored  soft  brown  and  gray;  the  Gadwall 
iChaulelasmas  strepera),  gray;  the  Baldpate  (Mareca  americana);  the 
Shoveller  (Spatula  clypeata),  with  its  huge  bill;  the  Canvas-back 
(Marila  vallisneria) ;  the  Red-Head  (M.  americana) ;  the  Lesser  Scaup 
(Marila  affinis) ;   the  Paradise   Sheldrake   (Casarca  variegata) ,   of  Aus- 


370  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

tralia;  the  Ruddy  Sheldrake  (Casarca  casarca),  lieht  chestnut  in  color; 
the  Common  or  Tadoma  Sheldrake  iTadorna  taaorna),  and  the  Man- 
darin Duck   (Aix  galericulata) . 

Nearby  is  the  Otter  Pool,  containing  the  American 
Otter  (Lutra  canadensis). 

In  the  northern  part  of  North  America  the  otter  develops  beautiful 
fur,  for  the  sake  of  which  it  has  been  almost  exterminated  by  trappers. 
In  the  south  f  where  the  fur  is  lighter  and  coarser,  the  animal  has  been 
allowed  to  live.  In  captivity  the  otter  becomes  almost  a  pet  animal, 
although  always  restless  and  active. 

Retreating  our  steps,  we  find  the  Camel  House  close 
by  Crotona  Entrance,  containing  two  specimen  of  the 
Bactrian  Camel  (Camelus  bactrianus),  covered  with  long 
shaggy  hair  in  winter.  One  of  them,  during  fine  weather,  is 
stationed  at  Baird  Court,  to  be  ridden  by  visitors.  The 
Dromedary  or  Single  Humped  Camel  (Camelus  dromedarius) 
is  also  housed  in  this  building. 

The  Llama  House,  directly  to  the  north,  contains  the 
cameloids  from  South  America.  These  species  are  so  named 
from  their  close  relation  to  the  camel  family. 

The  specimens  include  the  Llama  (JLama  glama),  used  as  a  beast 
of  burden;  the  Alpaca  {Lama  pacos)  .bred  for  its  wool;  and  the  Vicunia 
iLama  vicunia),  native  to  southern  Ecuador,  Peru  and  central  Bolivia. 

The  Elk  Range  lies  to  the  north  of  the  Llama 
House. 

The  American  deer  which  it  is  possible  to  preserve  for  any  length 
of  time  in  New  York  are  the  three  kinds  on  exhibition  here :  the  American 
Elk  or  Wapiti  iCertms  canadensis),  second  in  size  to  the  moose  only, 
the  males  adorned  with  branching  antlers  which  drop  off  in  summer, 
renewing  themselves  each  year;  the  Mule  Deer  iOdocoileus  hemionus), 
taking  its  name  from  its  large  ears  and  called  also  the  Jumping  Deer 
from  its  galloping  jumps  when  running;  and  the  White-Tailed  Deer 
(Odocoiieus   virginianus) ,    still   common   in   our   forest   regions. 

The  Fox  and  Wolf  Dens  are  opposite  the .  Elk  Range, 
built  along  a  granite  boulder  fringed  with  bushes. 

The  three  most  prominent  species  of  foxes  are:  the  Red  Fox  iVulpes 
fulvus),  with  its  two  subspecies,  the  Cross  Fox  (Vulpes  fulvus  decus- 
satus),  and  the  Black  Fox  (F.  /.  argentatus),  erroneously  called  the 
Silver  Fox,  found  nearly  all  over  America  north  of  the  southern  states; 
and  the  Gray  Fox  iUrocyon  virginiaus),  living  in  the  southern  states 
and  peculiar  in  its  ability  to  climb  trees.  The  Gray  Wolf  iCanis  nubilis) 
is  white  in  the  north,  black  in  Floriat,  in  British  Columbia  black  or 
white  or  gray,  and  even  occasionally  in  Texas,  red.  In  unsettled  parts 
of  the  country  this  creature  is  still  a  dangerous  animal  and  the  especial 
enemy  of  stock-raisers.  The  Coyote  or  Prairie  Wolf  {Canis  latrans), 
in  distinct  contrast,  is  a  coward,  living  by  his  wits. 

The  Zebra  House  lies  to  the  N.  of  the  Elk  Range,  at 
the  entrance  to  the  service  road. 


^] 


BRONX  PARK  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN         371 

It  contain*^  generally  specimens  of  the  Prjevalsky  Horses  (.Equus 
prjevalskii)  f  small,  wild  horses  from  Mongolia,  especially  interesting  to 
zoologists  as  the  connecting  link  between  zebras,  quaggas,  etc.,  and  the 
domestic  horse;  the  Mountain  Zebra  {Equus  sebra),  a  nearly  extermin- 
ated species  from  Cape  Colony;  the  Grevy  Zebra  (Equus  grevyi),  from 
Abysstnia  and  British  East  Africa;  the  Grant  Zebra  (Equus  burchelli 
granti),  the  commonest  type;  the  Chapman  Zebra  (Equus  burchelli 
chapmani):  and  the  Persian  Wild  Ass  (Equus  persicus),  native  to 
Persia  and  Syria. 

Deer  Ranges  occupy  the  entire  northwestern  corner  of 
the  park.  First,  next  to  the  Zebra  House  comes  the  Red 
Deer  (Cervus  elaphus)  Range.  The  game  preserves  of 
Great  Britain  and  Europe  .  are  stocked  with  this  species. 
The  subdivided  range  beyond  contains  various  species  of 
Asiatic  Deer.  The  Axis  Deer  {Axis  axis),  an  extremely 
beautiful  tropical  deer,  occupies  a  range  near  Fordham 
entrance. 

In  the  north  central  portion  of  the  grounds  are  grouped 
a  number  of  bird  quarters  under  the  name,  Bird  Valley; 
here  are  the  Duck  Aviary,  the  Flying  Cage,  the  Aquatic  Bird 
House,  and,  in  Baird  Court,  the  Large  Bird  House.  The 
Canadian  Geese  make  their  home  in  Cope  Lake,  The  Goose 
Aviary,  formerly  the  Duck  Aviary,  is  now  given  up  to  geese 
and  swans,  the  ducks  having  been  removed  to  Wild  Fowl 
Pond. 

The  Goose  Aviary  consists  of  a  pond  with  two  islands  divided 
into  twelve  enclosures,  usually  containing  about  twenty  of  the  thirty- 
five  known  species  of  geese.  Among  them  are  the  Common  Wild,  or 
Canadian  Goose  (Branta  canadensis),  llow  rare  instead  of  common; 
the  African  Spur-winged  Goose  (Plectropterus  gambensis),  named  from 
the  long  spur  on  the  bend  of  the  wing;  the  Gray-Lag  Goose  (Anser 
anser),  the  original  of  the  domesticated  goose;  the  White-Fronted 
Goose  (Anser  albifrons)^  the  handsomest  of  North  American  Geese; 
and  the  Bar-headed  Goose  (Eulabia  indica),  from  the  mountains  of 
central  Asia.  Of  the  seven  varieties  of  swans,  six  are  usually  on  exhi- 
bition: the  Mute  Swan  (Olor),  the  common  swan,  with  a  black  knob 
at  the  base  of  the  bill;  the  Trumpeter  Swan  (Olor  buccinator^, 
known  by  its  large  size  and  snowy  whiteness;  the  Black  Swan  (Chen- 
opsis  atrata),  from^Sotlth  Australia  and  Tasmania,  black  in  color;  the 
Coscoroba  Goose  (Coscoroba  coscoroba),  the  link  between  the  goose 
and  the  swan,  with  long  pink  legs. 

Directly  to  the  south  is  the  Flying  Cage,  a  gigantic  bird 
cage»  75  ft.  by  152  ft.  and  55  ft.  high,  taking  in  whole  trees, 
containing  water  birds. 

Amonof  them  are:  the  American  Flamingo  (Phoenicopterus 
ruber) t  01  scarlet  color,  from  the  Bahama  Islands  and  Cuba;  the 
European  Flamingo '(P.  roseus),  white,  with  pink  wing  coverts;  the 
Scarlet  Ibis  (Guara  rubra),  vermillion  in  color,  found  now  chiefly  on 
the  banks  of  the  Orinoco;  the  White-faced  Glossjr  Ibis  (Plegadis  gua- 
rauna);  the  Wood  Ibis  (Tantalus  loculator),  with  black  and  white 
plumage,  from  Florida;  the  White  Stork  (Ciconia  ciconia),  the  stork 
of    Germany;    the    Great    Blue    Heron     (Ardea    herodias),    from    the 


372  '  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

northern  marshes;  the  Great  White  Heron  (Ardea  americana),  from 
southern  Florida,  exceedingly  rare;  the  Little  Blue  Heron  {Florida 
caerulea),  from  Florida;  the  Louisiana  Heron  (Hydranassas  tricolor 
ruficollis).  dark  blue,  with  chestnut  brown  on  the  sides  of  neckp  in 
Central  America  and  the  Southern  states;  the  Black-Crowned  Night 
Heron  (Nycticorax  nycticorax  naevius),  common  in  this  vicinity:  the 
Snowy  Heron  or  Snowy  Egret  {Egretta  candidissima) ,  the  most  beau- 
tiful white  bird  in  the  world,  almost  exterminated  for  the  sake  of  the 
fashionable  egret  worn  on  hats;  the  American  Egret  (Herodias  egretta), 
likewise  slaughtered  during  the  breeding  season  for  its  plumage;  the 
White  Pelican  (Pelicanus  erytkrorhynchos) ,  large,  with  pure  white 
plumage  and  amber  bill;  and  the  Brown  Pelican  (Pelecanus  occider^ 
talis).  *he  tamest  of  the  birds,  especially  amusing  at  feeding  time. 

Directly  to  the  south  is  the  Aquatic  Bird  House,  for  the  winter 
housng  of  aquatic  birds.  The  outside  •  cages  contain  owls;  the 
Giant  Ea^le  Owl  iBubo  bubo),  from  continental  Europe,  breeding  well 
n  captivity;  the  Milky  Owl  iBubo  lacteus),  very  rare,  soft  gray  in 
color;  the  Great  Horned  Owl  (Bubo  virginianus) ,  distinguishea  by  its 
feather  horns;  the  Snowy  Owl  {Nyctea  nyctea),  from  the  arctic  re- 
gions, kept  in  a  cool  i:ellar  during  summer;  the.  Screech  Owl  (^OtUA 
asio),  common  to  this  vicinity;  and  the  Barred  Owl  iSyminm  vanum), 
appearing  in  the  daytime  oftener  than  most  owls. 

Still  further  to  the  south  is  the  Eagle  and  Vulture  Aviary 
with  seven  large  flight  cages,  six  smaller  ones  and  a  brick 
building  for  winter  quarters. 

The  finest  specimens  are:  the  Condor  (Sarcorhamphus  gryphus), 
from  the  Andes,  with  a  wing  spread  of  over  nine  feet;  the 
King  Vulture  iGypagus  fapa),  native  to  Mexico,  Central  and  northern 
South  America,  body  white,  cream-yellow  and  black,  head  orange,  pur* 
pie   and   crimson;    Black   Vulture    (Catharista  urubu),   common   in   our 


Red-Tailed  Hawk  {Buteo  boreaUs)^  called  the  Hen  Hawk  or  Chicken 
Hawk,  migrates  to  the  south  in  winter;  the  Harpy  Eagle  (Thrasaetus 
harpyia),  from  South  America,  with  unusually  large  claws;  the  Lam- 
mergeyer  or  Bearded  Vulture  {Gypaetus  barbatus),  found  in  Asia; 
the  Golden  Eagle  iAquila  chrysaetos),  a  cliff  dweller  in  Scotland  and 
North  America;  the  Bateleur  Eagle  (Helotarsus  ecaudatus) ,  from  Africa; 
the  Bald  Eagle  iHaliaetus  leucocephalus),  our  National  emblem;  the 
White  Gyrfalcon  (Falco  islandus),  from  the  far  north;  the  White- 
Breasted  Sea  Eagle  (.Haliaetus  leucogaster)^  from  the  East  Indies; 
and  the  Vulturine  Sea  Eagle  (Gypohierax  angolensis),  from  Africa. 

A  Pony  Stand  is  arranged  between  the  Aquatic  Bird  House  and 
the   larger  Bird   House,   where  children   can   obtain   rides. 

The  Large  Bird  House  stands  at  the  N.  W.  corner 
of  Baird  Court.  This  is  the  largest  bird  house  in  exist- 
ence, built  on  the  theory  that  birds  thrive  best  in  flocks 
in  large  cages.  The  death  rate  in  this  building  is  remarkably 
low.  The  main  hall,  running  E.  and  W.,  contains  in  the 
center  a  Flying  Cage,  with  running  water  and  small  trees. 

Among  the  birds  here,  identified  by  the  pictured  labels,  are 
the  Wood  Duck,  the  Mandarin  Duck,  Black  Skimmers,  Common  and 
Sooty  Terns,  Teal,  Curlews,  Gallinules,  Coot9,  Lapwings,  Snipe,  Rv^s, 
Quail,  Francolins,  Senegal,  Turtle,  Wonea-wonga  Pigeons,  Doves, 
Skylarks,    Robins,    Orioles,    Cardinals,    Woodpeckers,   Java,    Fox,   Tree, 


BRONX  PARK  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN    373 

and  other  Sparrows  and  Weavers.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  Main  Hall 
are  tropical  birds,  the  most  beautiful  of  which  is  the  Greater  Bird  of 
Paradise  (JParadisea  apoda).  The  W.  sides  of  both  the  Main  Hall  and 
the  Wing  are  given  up  to  cages  of  Tropical  Pigeons  and  Doves,  of 
which  the  Bleeaing  Heart  Pigeon  {Phlogoenas  lusonica)^  in  which  the 
illusion  of  a  wound  often  deceives  visitors  into  the  belief  that  the 
bird  has  been  injured.  The  S.  side  of  the  Main  Hall  houses  miscel- 
laneous tropical  birds,  among  which  are  noticeable  the  Great  Crowned 
Pigeons,  Concave-Casqued  Hornbills,  Toucans.  The  cry  of  the  Giant 
Kingfisher  of  Australia  has  given  it  the  nickname,  the  laughing 
Jaclrass.  In  the  angle  of  the  Main  Building  is  a  Glass  Court,  in  which 
are  found  the  twenty-one  families  of  eastern  North  American  perching 
birds:  Flycatchers,  Swallows,  Wrens,  Mockingbirds  and  Catbirds, 
Thrushes,  Kinglets,  Vireos,  Waxwings,  Shrikes,  Chickadees,  Nut- 
hatches, Brown  Creepers,  Tanagers,  Warblers,  Pipits.  Horned  Larks, 
Sparrows,  Honey  Creepers,  Blackbirds  and  Orioles,  English  Starling, 
Crows.  In  the  circular  outer  flyinsf  cage  are  Robins,  Bluebirds  and 
Jays,  Thrushes  and  Woodpeckers.  The  Wing  extending  S.  is  Parrots' 
Hall,  and  among  the  dwellers  are  the  Blue  and  Yellow  Macaw,  the  Red 
and  Blue  Macaw,  and  the  Green  Macaw,  Parakeets,  Cuban  Parrots  and 
Cockatoos.  In  the  outside  cages  on  the  W.  side  are  Ravens,  Crows, 
Jays,  Magpies,  Blackbirds,  Meadowlarks,  Cowbirds,  Crackles,  Yellow- 
shs^ted  Flickers  and  Red-Headed  Woodpecker. 

The  Sea-Lion  Pool  is  in  the  center  of  the  Baird  Court.  The  Cali- 
fornia Sea-Lion  or  Barking  Sea-Lion  (Zalophus  calif ornianus\  is  a 
lively  and  interesting  creature.  The  Harbor  Seal  (Phoca  vitulina)  is 
common  alomg  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  fur-bearing  animal  usually 
called  a  fur-seal  in  reality  belongs  to  the  sea-lion  family,  and  except 
for  its  fur  is  similar  in  appearance  to  the  California  sea-lion. 

The  Lion  House  is  situated  in  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Baird  Court; 
it  is  244  ft.  long  and  115  ft.  wide,  including  the  out-of-door  cages;  cost 
$150,000,  and  is  ornamented  with  animal  sculpture  by  Eli  Harvey. 
The  arrangements  for  handling  the  animals,  the  steel-wire  netting  in 
place  of  iron  bars,  and  the  g^een  tiling  are  extremely  satisfactory  de- 
partures from  the  usual  methods.  In  the  13  indoor  cages  are  exhibited 
to  good  advantage:  Lions;  Betigal  and  Siberian  Tigers;  a  Jaguai 
(Felis  onea)  from  Paraguay;  Leopards  of  various  types;  and  Puma, 
also  exhibited  in  the  Puma  House. 

The  Primates'  House,  where  the  monkeys  live,  is  situated 
in  the  S.  E.  corner  of  Baird  Court.  It  contains  10  large 
cages,  22  small  cages,  and  11  exterior  cages.  Some  of  the 
large  cages  contain  groups  of  monkeys. 

The  house  is  well  ,  ventilated.  Of  the  Anthropoid  Apes 
in  the  North  Hall,  the  Gorilla  has  so  far  proved  impossible  to  keep 
long  alive  in  cajjtivity.  The  Orang-Utan  seldom  lives  many  years,  but 
is  docile,  affectionate  and  intelligent;  the  Chimpanzee  (Anthropopi- 
thecus  catvus)  lives  longer  than  the  others  in  captivitv  and  is  easily 
trained;  several  specimens  are  usually  on  exhibition.  In  ths  summer 
of  191 1,  nine  apes  took  their  dinner  every  evening  sitting  at  a  table  in 
an  outside  cage  and  eating  in  a  proper  manner.  The  Giboon  is  a  large, 
timid  ereature,  specially  noted  for  its  swift  flight  through  the  tree  tops. 
The  collection  always  contains  some  Baboons,  usually  a  Mandrill  and 
a  Long-Armed  Yellow  Baboon,  both  of  which  endure  captivity  philo- 
^sophically.  In  the  £^oup  of  Old  World  Monkeys  are  some  nearly 
tailless  ones,  falsely  called  apes:  the  Black  Ape,  the  Margot  or  Barbary 
Ape,  the  Japanese  Red-Faced  Monkey  and  the  Pig-Tailed  Monkey.  Of 
the  African  Monkeys,  the  following  are  usually  on  exhibition:  the 
White-collared   Mangabey   and   the   Sooty   Mangabey,   famous   for  their 


374  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

9 

«ood-natured  dispositions;  the  Mona  Monkey — quarrelsome:  the  Green 
lonkey — quarrelsome;  the  Vervet;  the  Patas  or  Red  Monkey — serious 
in  mien.  Among  the  New  World  Monkeys,  the  best  known  are  the 
Sapaiou,  with  its  long  tail,  freauently  accompanied  in  the  out-of-door 
world  by  a  hand-organ;  the  Black  Spider  Monkey  and  the  Gray  Spider 
Monkey,  difficult  to  raise;  and  the  Souirrel  Monkey,  sometimes  called 
a  Marmoset,  requiring  great  care.  The  Lemurs  and  Lemuroids  from 
the  Island  of  Madagascar  are  related  to  the  monkey  family. 

The  Elephant  House,  situated  to  the  South  of  Baird 
Court,  is  planned  for  the  comfort  of  the  huge  animals, 
with  outdoor  corrals  and  both  indoor  and  outdoor  bathing 
tanks. 

The  large  Indian  elephant  Gunda,  formerly  the  finest  specimen 
in  the  collection,  unfortunately  developed  so  vicious  a  nature  that 
it  became  necessary  to  confine  him  in  painful  closeness  and  later 
to  put  him  to  death.  Two  specimens  of  the  somewhat  rare 
Soudan  Elephant  (Elephas  oxyotis)  represent  the  family  to 
which  belonged  the  famous  Jumbo.-  They  are  still  young  and 
will  not  attain  their  full  height  till  1927.  They  wander  about  their  cage 
in  comparative  liberty.  The  African  Two-Horned  Rhinoceros 
(Rhinoceros  bicornis)  is  represented  by  Victoria  a  female, 
captured  in  German  East  Africa  and  carried,  slung  from  a  pole, 
a  six  days  journey  to  the  coast  on  men's  shoulders,  and  thence  by 
steamer,  rail  and  steamer  again  she  came  to  the  Zoo  where  she  has  lived 
since  1906  in  amicable  docility.  The  Indian  Rhinoceros  {Rhinoceros 
unicornis)  is  "unbelievably  pre-historic."  The  Hippopotamus  {Hippo- 
potamus amphibius)  from  East  Africa  weighed  in  1909,  aged  five  years, 
3,114  pounds.  He  is  still  growing.  The  Pygmy  Hippopotamus  {Hippo- 
potamus liberiensis)  looks  like  the  previous  specimen  seen  through  the 
wrong  end  of  a  telescope.  Three  of  them  have  lived  in  the  Elephant 
House  since  their  arrival  from  Liberia  in  191^.  They  cost  $15,000. 
The  South  American  Tapir  {Tapirus  terrestris)  and  the  Malay  Tapir 
{Tapirus  indicus)   are  exhibited  here. 

The  Reptile  House  is  S.  and  is  reached  by  the  Service  Road.  This 
is  a  large  building  of  mottled  brick  and  granite  decorated  with  terra 
cotta  casts  of  reptiles  by  A.  Phimister  Proctor.  Among  the  Rodents 
exhibited  in  the  Reptile  House  are  some  specimens  of  the  Jumping 
Mouse,  Pouched  Rat,  Pocket  Gophers,  Dormice,  Domestic  Mice,  Waltz- 
ing Mice,  and  various  varieties  of  rats.  The  Turtles  are  in  a  large  tank 
in  the  main  hall,  divided  into  ten  compartments.  Among  those  present 
are:  the  Alligator  Turtle  {Machrochelys  lacertind)  the  largest  fresh-  . 
water  turtle  in  North  America;  the  Snapping  Turtle  {Chelydra  serpen- 
tina) a  fighter;  and  the  Painted  Turtle  (Chrysemys  picta)  a  member  of 
the  ordinary  fresh-water  family  found  almost  everywhere  in  our 
country;  The  Tortoises  are  in  a  glass-roo'fed  hall  at  the  eastern  end. 
The  largest  of  the  Giant  Tortoises  weighs  over  235  pounds  and  is 
from  the  Galapagos  Islands  in  the  Pacific  Ocean  {Testudo  vidna). 
The  Gopher  Tortoise  {Testudo  Carolina)  is  from  Southern  Florida. 
The  South  American  Tortoise  {Testudo  tabulata)  is  much  smaller.  The 
Alligators  in  winter  are  in  the  large  tank  at  the  end  of  the  hall 
banked  with  tropical  foliage;  in  summer  they  are  in  the  Alligator  Pool, 
southeast  of  the  Reptile  House.  Here  are  several  specimens  of  the 
American  Alligator  {A.  mississippiensis) ,  and  the  Florida  Crocodile. 
The  Tropical  Lizards  are  in  the  Tortoise  Glass  Hall,  the  outside  runways 
and  various  parts  of  the  house.  Among  the  larger  ones  are:  the 
Mexican  Iguana  {Ctenosaura  acanthura);  the  South  American  Iguana 
{Iguana  tubercnlata)  growing  as  long  as  seven  feetj  the  so-called 
Horned  Toad  {Phrynosoma) ;  the  Tegus  {genus  Tupinambls^,  quarrelsome  •* 

meat-eating  and  four  feet  long;  and  the  Australian  Monitor   {Varanus  | 


BRONX  PARK  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN    375 

gouldii)  which  grow  eight  feet  long  and  swallow  eggs  without  breakinj? 
the  shell.  Among  smaller  lizards  are:  the  Green  Lizard  {Lacerta  viri- 
dis)  strangely  vivid;  the  Glass  Snake  (Ophiosauris  ventralis)  which  is 
not  a  snake;  the  Gila  Monster  (Heloderma  susbectum) ;  and  the  Cha- 
meleon of  the  Old  World  (Chamaeleo  vulgaris)  in  its  changeable  attire 
The  N.  side  of  Reptile  Hall  is  lined  with  glass  cases  in  which  Serpents 
are  di^layed.  The  Re^al  Python  iPython  reticulatus)  on  exhibition  is 
22  ft.  in  length  and  weighs  170  pounds.  These  snakes  come  from  Asia 
and  Africa.  The  Rock  PytW  (Python  sebae)  of  Africa  is  the  one 
used  by  snake  charmers.  The  Anaconda  (Eunectes  murinus)  is  an 
American  snake.  The  Black  Snake  (Bcucanium  constrictor)  is  encour- 
aged in  our  southern  states  because,  harmless  itself,  it  destroys  harmful 
rodents.  The  Garter  Snake  (Eutcienia  sirtalis)  is  familiar  to  all.  These 
snakes  are  none  of  them  poisonous;  the  danger  of  the  first  three  lies  in 
their  ability  to  crush.  Of  the  poisonous  snakes,  the  best -known  are: 
The  King  Cobra  (Naja  bungaris)  the.  bite  of  which  is  fatal ;  the  Cobra-de- 
Capello  (Naja  tripuKans)  which'  kills  some  26,000  persons  annually  in 
India;  the  Water  Moccasin  (Ancistrodon  piscivorus)  found  in  the 
Southern  States;  the  Copperhead  (A.  contortrix) ;  the  Diamond 
Rattlesnake  (Crotalus  adamanteus).  The  Batrachians  or  Amphibians 
are  in  small  aquarium  cases  along  the  south  side  of  the  hall.  These 
creatures  are  halfway  between  reptiles  and  Fishes.  Among  them  are 
the  Bullfrog  (Rana  catesbiana) ,  the  Common  Toad  (Bufo  lentiginosus)  ^ 
the  Spotted  Salamander  (Salamandra  maculosa)  which  will  not  live  in 
flame^  the  Water- Dog  or  Hellbender  (Cryptobranchus  allegheniensis), 
the  Congo  Snake  (Amphiuma  means),  with  tiny  legs,  and  the  Meno- 
branchus  or  Mud  Puppy  (Necturus  maculatus).  An  excellent  insect 
collection  is  housed  in  the  Reptile  House  in  winter  and  in  summer  in 
the  Pavilion  near  the  Small-Mammal  House. 

The  Alaskan  House  and  the  Totem  Pole  brought  from 
Alaska,  are  placed  to  the  S.  W.  of  the  Reptile  House,  on 
the  shore  of  Wild  Fowl  Pond. 

Close  by  is  the  Wild  Turkey  Enclosure  holding  a  fine 
flock  of  this  fowl. 

Near  at  hand  is  the  Puma  and  Lynx  House,  a  log 
cabin  with  two  yards.  Pumas  are  kept  here  as  well  as 
in  the  Lion  House.  A  pair  of  Canadian  Lynx  (Lynx  cana- 
densis) are  on  exhibition  here. 

The  Burrowing  Mammals  Enclosure  lies  directly  S.  of 
the  Puma  and  Lynx  House.  It  is  composed  of  15  small  * 
yards,  enclosed  by  walls  reaching  to  bed  rock  and  covered  with 
wire  netting.  The  ground  is  especially  adapted  to  burrowing 
and  rocks  and  stumps  on  the  surface  reproduce  natural  condi- 
tions. 

In  the  winter  the  tropical  animals  are  taken  into  the 
Small-Mammal  House  and  the  others  retire  into  their  burrows 
to  hibernate  till  spring.  In  the  summer  the  following  families 
will  be  found  among  those  represented  here:  the  Sewellel 
Family  by  the  species  called  the  Mountain  Beaver,  Farmer  or 
Showt'l;  the  Squirrel  F?imily  and  the  Rabbit  Family. 


376  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  Small' Mammal  House  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  Puma 
and  Lynx  House.  This  is  the  winter  quarters  of  manv 
of  the  animals  that  live  out-of-doors  in  the  summer  as  well 
as  the  permanent  home  of  others.  This  arrangement  makes 
the  collection  something  of  a  mixture.  •  • 

Among  the  most  interesting  of  the  inmates  are  some  cat-like  animals: 
The  Serval  {Felts  serval)  from  Africa;  the  Clouded  Leopard  (Felis  nebu- 
losa)  a  fine  and  rare  specimen  of  vicious  temper  from  jiorneo;  the  jun- 
gle Cat  (F.  bengalensis) ;  the  Ocelot  (Felts  pardalis)  of  South  and  Cen- 
tral   America;    the   Margay   Cat    (F.    tigrina) ;  the   Yaguarundi   Cat    (F. 
yaguarundi)    of   Southern  Texas  and   Mexico;   the   Bay   Lynx,   or   Red 
Lynx  (Lynx  rufus),  better  known  as  the  Wild  Cat;  the  Common  Civet- 
Cat    (,i/iverra    zibetha)    and    the    Malayan    Civet-Cat    (V.    mala^censis) 
whose  presence  can   be  smelled;   and   many  others.     The   New   Mexico 
Desert  Fox    (Vulpes  macrotis  neomexi'canus)   or   Swift  or   Kit  Fox  pre- 
fers to  live  here  rather  than  in  the  fox  dens.     The  Arctic  Fox  (Vulpes 
lagopus)   which  in  the  extreme  north  is  a  white  fox  all  the  year  round 
but  further  south  becomes  the  well-known  Blue  Fox,  is  being  extensive'y 
raised  for  fur  in  Alaska.     Amon^  the  dog-like  animals  are  the  Dingo  or 
Austrahan    Wild    Dog    (Canis   dtngo)    looking   like    a    nice    yellow    cur; 
the   Red   Coati-mundi    (Nasua  rufa)    and  the   White-Nosed   Coati-Mundi 
(Nasua  narica)  more  like  a  Raccoon;  the  Raccoon  Dog  (Nycereutes  pro- 
cyonoides)    from    Japan.      The    collection    includes    a    large    variety    of 
Squirrels.       Porcupines     are     represented     by     the     African     Porcupine 
(Hystrix  cristata)    and   the   Indian   Crestless   Hill   Porcupine    (H.   lonni- 
cauda).     The  Nine-handed  Armadillo  (Tatu  novemcinctum)  and  the  Six- 
Banded   Armadillo    (Dasyptis  sexinctus)    are   among  the   strangest   ani- 
mals.     The    real    Ant-Eater    (Myrmecophaga  jubata)    that   seems   to    be 
made   hindside   before   and    the   Tamandua    (Tamandua   tetradactyla)    a 
sfialler.   tree-climbing   ant-eater    are    weird   creatures.      The    Three-Toel 
Sloth   (Bradypus  tridactylus)   and  the  Two-Toed  Sloth    (Choloepus  hoff- 
mani)  are  sometimes  in  this  house  and  sometimes  in  the  Primate  House. 

The  Ostrich  House  is  connected  with  the  Small- 
Mammal  House  by  a  pavilion.  The  North  African  Ostrich 
(Struthio  camelus),  known  also  as  the  Soudan,  is  the  largest 
species.  A  full-grown  male  is  8  ft.  high  and  weighs  about 
300  pounds.  It  breeds  fairly  well  in  captivity.  The  South 
African  Ostrich  (Struthio  australis)  is  the  species  with 
which  the  commercial  ostrich  farms  of  Arizona  and  Southern 
California  are  stocked. 

The  Common   Rhea  cr  South  American  Ostrich    (Rhea  americana) 
is  smaller  and   difficult  to  raise  in   northern  latitudes.     The  two  other 
large    birds    of    especial    interest'  are:    the    Common    Emeu    (Dromaeus 
npvae-hollandiae)    from    Australia    and    the    Ceram    Cassawary    (Casxia- 
rius    casuarius)    from    the    Malay    Archipelago.      The    Secretary    Bird 
(Serpentaritis  serpentarius)   receives  its  name  from  the  illusion  of  pens 
behind  its  ears.     The  Brush  Turkey  or  Tellegalla  (Catheturus  lathami) 
of  New  Guinea  arid  Australia  is  notable  for  laying  its  eggs  in  a  sunny 
spot,  covering  them  with  an  extraordinary  amount  of  dirt  and  debr.'s  and 
allowinp:    the    heat     pf    the .  sun    to    hatch    them.        The    Cranes    are 
found  in  this  house  and  the  Aquatic  Birds  House.       The  chief  species    ♦ 
are:    the    Whooping    Ctane    (Grus    americana)    the    handsomest    of    the 
American  species;  the  Sandhill  Crane  (Grus  mexicana)   from  the  south- 
eastern part  of  the  ^Urjited  States;  the  $.arus  Crane  (Antigone  antigone) 
from  northern  India;  the  Asiatic  White  Crskne   (Sarcogeranus  leucoger- 


BRONX  PARK  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN    377 

anus);  and  the  Paradise  Crane  {Tetrapteryx  paradise),  the  Demoiselle 
Crane  (Anthropaides  virgo)  and  the  Crowned  Crane  (Balearica  pavo- 
nina),  all  three  from  Africa  and  all  three  described  by  their  names. 

The  Bear  Pits  are  reached  by  retracing  our  steps,  pass- 
ing between  the  Reptile  House  and  the  summer  Alligator 
Pool.  These  dens  are  constructed  according  to  modern  hy- 
genic  ideals  of  bears*  needs  and  are  a  great  advance  on  the 
old-fashioned  bear  pit.  Visitors  are  especially  requested  not 
to  throw  food  to  the  bears  at  it  interferes  with  their  proper 
diet  and  is  disastrous  to  stomach  and  disposition. 

In  191 3,  thirty-six  specimens,  representing  no  less  than 
eighteen  species,  were  on  exhibition.  The  most  noteworthy 
or  these  are:  the  Polar  Bear  iUrsus  maritimus)  named  Silver 
King,  weighing  880  pounds,  the  largest  polar  bear  ever  captured  alive, 
and  a  female  m  near-by  quarters;  the  Yakutat  Bear  (Ursus  dalli)  from 
Alaska;  the  Peninsular  Bear  (Ursus  gyas)  from  Alaska,  one  of  the  two 
largest  bears  in  captivity;  the  Admiralty  Bear  {Ursus  eulophus\  from 
Alaska;  the  Grizzly  Bear  or  Silver-Tip  Grizzly  (Ursus  horrihilis)  the 
most  savage  and  courageous  of  bears,^  represented  by  three  excellent 
specimens;  the  Black  Bear  (Ursus  americanus)  represented  by  specimens 
from  several  localities  of  North  America;  the  Spectacled  Bear  (Ursus 
ornatus)  a  rare  animal  from  the  Andes,  named  from  the  white  circles 
about  each  eye;  the  Andean  Black  Bear  (Ursus  ornatus  thomasi)  from 
South  America;  the  Brown  Bear  of  Europe  (Orsus  arctos)  represented 
by  a  pitir  that  has  raised  some  fine  cubs;  the  Syrian  Bear  (Ursus  syria- 
cus)  the  bear  referred  to  in  the  Bible;  the  Hairy- Eared  Bear  (ifrsus 
piscator)  from  Central  Asia;  the  Himalayan  Black  Bear  (Ursus  torqua- 
fus)  widely  spread  through  Asia;  the  Japanese  Black  Bear  (Ursus  japon- 
icus)  one  of  the  smallest  of  bears;  the  Sloth  or  Long- Lipped  Bear 
(Ursus  labiatus)  from  India,  and  the  Malay  Sun  Bear  (Ursus  malay- 
anus)  the  smallest  bear  in  the  world. 

The  Raccoon  Tree  is  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Bear  Pits. 

The  Beaver  Pond,  some  distance  to  the  north  of  the 
Bear  Pits  is  worth  the  walk.  The  iron  fence  encloses 
some  three  acres.  The  large  trees  have  been  protected  from 
destruction  by  wire  netting,  but  the  small  ones  are  assigned 
to  the  animals  for  food  and  buildings.  The  dam  constructed 
by  the  beavers  is  about  40  feet  long  and  4  feet  high.  The 
house  is  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  entrance  is  under  \^ater. 
The  animals  are  the  American  Beaver  {Castor  canadersis) 
formerly  found  in  large  numbers  in  the  north,  but  now  Jtom- 
paratively  rare. 


378  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

V.  Bronx  Park :  The  Botanical  Garden 

The  *New  York  Botanical  Garden  (PI.  XI — D2-3)  is 
reached  by  3d  ave.  elevated  to  Botanical  Garden  Station ;  sub- 
way passengers  change  at  149th  st.  and  3d  ave.  (take  transfer)  ; 
also  reached  by  Harlem  division  of  the  New  York  Central  R. 
R.  from  Grand  Central  station.  Grounds  open  from  6  a.  m.  to 
II  p.  m.  Museum  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  in  summer  and  4:30  in 
winter.  Conservatories  from  10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.  Guide  book 
25  cents  A  guide  leaves  the  front  door  of  the  Museum  Build- 
ing every  afternoon  at  3  p.  m.  to  escort  all  who  wish  to  accom- 
pany him.  The  routes  are :  Monday,  Hemlock  Forest  and  Her- 
baceous Garden;  Tuesday,  Pinetum;  Wednesday,  Fruticetum 
and  North  Meadows ;  Thursday,  Deciduous  Arboretum,  Nur- 
series, Progagating  Houses ;  Friday,  Public  Conservatories ; 
Saturday,  Museums.    The  Garden  was  established  in  1891. 

Starting  from  the  3d  ave.  elevated  entrance,  one  visits  first  The  Con- 
servatories, ist  range  (i).  (See  p.  opp.)  The  house  is  512  ft.  in  length, 
with  a  central  dome  90  ft.  high  and  an  entire  area  of  about  one  acre.  House 
No.  I  contains  palms,  from  West  India,  Central  and  South  America,  Bra- 
zil, Mexico,  Northern  Africa,  China,  and  Pacific  Islands.  The  Chinese 
bamboos  opposite  the  entrance  grow  at  the  rate  of  about  8  inches  a  day. 
House  No.  2,  on  the  right,  holds  smaller  palms.  House  No.'  3,  has 
Monocotylcdonous  plants  of  the  tropical  regions.  House  No.  5  ex- 
hibits large  tropical  plants.  The  huge  rubber  plant  in  the  center  is  the 
variety  commonly  grown  in  pots.  House  No.  5  is  devoted  to  Desert 
plants.  House  No.  6  is  also  Desert  plants.  House  No.  8  is  filled  with 
miscellaneous  plants  from  various  countries.  (If  the  end  door  is  un- 
locked, the  most  direct  route  is  to  cross  the  outdoor  court  and  enter 
the  end  door  of  the  opposite  wing;  if  the  door  is  fastened  it  is  neces- 
sary to  retrace  one'a  steps  and  reach  the  end  of  the  opposite  witkfi 
through  the  conservatories.  House  No.  9  is  the  aquatic  house;  in  the 
pool  are  the  Egyptian  papyrus,  sugar  cane,  bamboos,  water  lilies,  etc. 
House  No.  10  contains  specimens  of  the  aroids,  the  most  familiar  of 
which  is  the  Calla  lily.  House  No.  11  holds  huge  tropical  plants  be- 
longing to  the  banana,  ginger,  and  canna  families.  House  No.  14  is  ar- 
ranged for  the  comparative  study  of  plant  families  and  genera.  On  the 
west  side  are  specimens  of  insectivorous  plants,  among  which  are  several 
varieties  of  the  pitcherplant,  sundews,  etc.  House  No.  13  contains  large 
warm-temperate  plants.  House  No.  14,  like  12,  contains  plants  arranged 
in  botanical  sequence.^  House  No.  15  is  devoted  to  orchids.  The  Con- 
servatory Court  contains  two  tanks  of  water  lilies,  the  hardy  ones  in 
the  east  tank  remaining  permanently  in  place. 

The  Museum  Building  (  7  )  Italian  Renaissance  in  brick  and  terra- 
cotta. On  the  first  floor  is  the  museum  of  economic  botany  (p.  383)-  The 
west  hall  is  devoted  to  food  and  fibers.  Cases  1-18,  fibers.  19-20,  India 
rubber  and  allied  products.  21-22,  resins.  23-26,  Spices  and  flavoring 
agents.  27,  Dye  stuffs,  28-^0,  Tanning  Materials.  31-32,  Fodder  plants. 
33-36,  Tobaccos  and  Masticatories.  37-41,  Beveragjes.  42,  Soap,  etc. 
43-48,  Fixed  and  volatile  oils.  49-60,  Plant  constituents.  61,  Starch. 
62-63,  Cork  and  paper.  65-66,  Sugar.  67-84,  Foods.  The  east  hall 
contains  drugs  in  cases  85-102  and  185-2.2,  and  Woods  in  cases  103-184. 

The  entire  second  floor  is  given  up  to  the  museum  of  Systematic 
Botany  (p.  380)  divided  into  (a)  The  general  synoptic  collection,  in 
cases  I  to  28;  (b)  A  series  of  microscopes  showing  selected  specimen, 
on  small  stands  in  the  west  wing;  (c)  Illustrations  of  local  flora,  in 
swinging  frames. 


General  Plan  of  the  New  Yoek  Botanical  Garden 


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Deciduous    Woad- 

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Bridge 

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BRONX   PARK  BOTANICAL  GARDEN  381 

On  the  third  floor  (p.  382)  are  the  laboratories;  the  library,  avail- 
able by  permission;  and  the  herbarium  also  available  by  permission. 

In  the  basement  is  the  Museum  of  Fossil  Botany  (p.  385)  arranged 
by  the  sequence  of  the  geographical  time  divisions.  Eozoic  and  Pale- 
ozoic Time,  floor  and  wall  cases  1-4.  Early  Mesozoic  time,  floor-case  5. 
Later  Mesozoic  time,  floor-case  6.  Middle  Cretaceous  flora  found  in 
vicinity,  floor-case  7.  Middle  Cretaceous  flora  from  the  western  states, 
floor-case  8.  Plants  of  the  Upper  Cretaceous  (Laramie  Group)  floor- 
case  9.     Remains  of  Neozoic  time,  floor-cases  10  to   12  and  wall-case  5. 

The  Pinetum  (  8  )  is  about  30  acres  surrounding  the  conservatories, 
planted  with  cone-bearing  trees,  of  many  varieties.  Somewhat  to  the 
south  lie  the  Herbaceous  Grounds  (10)  in  a  small  valley  between  the 
main  driveway  and  the  hemlock  grove.  Here  an  endless  variety  of 
plants  is  grouped  by  natural  families  in  botanical  relationship.  To  the 
north,  on  the  other  side  of  the  driveway  lies  the  Morphologxcal  Garden 
(  II  )  illustrating  the  leaf-forms,  venation  and  insertion  on  stem,^  kinds 
of  stem,  methods  of  propagation,  etc.  Just  beyond  is  the  Economic  Gar- 
den (  12  )  illustrating  food  plants  and  medicinal  plants.  Directly  be- 
hind is  the  Viticetum  (  13  )  where  many  kinds  of  vines  run  over  a 
strong  arbor.  Back  of  these  fatter  features  is  a  small  patch  of  Deciduous 
Woodland  (14)  and  a  delightful  *Hemlock  Poorest  (15)  of  Canadian 
hemlock  spruce.  The  Deciduous  Arboretum  (  31  )  extends  over  most 
of  the  space  E.  of  the  Bronx  river.  This  collection  is  receiving  constant 
additions.  In  this  woodland  is  situated  the  2nd  range  of  Conservatories 
(32)  holding  the  tropical  ferns  and  their  allies  and  the  cycads. 

A  delightful  stroll,  about  a  mile  long,  may  be  enjoyed  by 
following  the  Bronx  river  down  to  Concourse  entrance  of  the 
Zoological  Gardens.  Near  the  Waterfall  (18)  is  the  Lorillard 
Mansion,  (free;  11-3  p.  m.)  now  a  museum  under  the  Bronx 
Society  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  containing  a  scanty  collection  of 
historical  objects  and  prints  relating  to  the  Bronx.  The  house 
is  in  poor  repair.  Continuing  S.  along  the  edge  of  the  river, 
one  reaches.  Pelham  ave.,  opposite  the  Concourse  Entrance  of 
the  Zoological  Gardens.  (To  return  to  town  from  here,  walk 
W.  to  Fordham  Entrance  afld  take  a  Union  Railway  car;  or 
walk  to  Fordham  station  on  the  3d  ave.  elevated  a  half  mile 
to  the  W.)  The  walk  through  the  park  can  be  continued  by 
turning  E.  upon  reaching  Pelham  ave.,  crossing  Linnaeus 
Bridge  and  turning  S.  at  the  first  roadway.  This  road  soon 
reaches  Boston  Road,  near  the  Bronxdale  entrance  to  the 
Zoological  Gardens  and  after  crossing  Boston  Road  becomes 
a  delightful  path  through  the  woods,  along  the  E.  side  of 
Bronx  Lake  and  emerging  at  i8oth  st.  near  the  Subway. 

Near  the  Botanical  Gardens  is  Fordham  University 
(PI.  XI — C^)  reached  from  Fordham  station  on  Harlem  R.  R. ; 
or  Fordham  station  on  3d  ave.  elevated  subway  passengers 
change  at  149th  st  and  3d  ave.,  a  Catholic  institution  under 
the  charge  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers,  opened  1841.  The  grounds 
cover  70  acres.  The  University  includes  St.  John's  College, 
School  of  Medicine  and  School  of  Law. 

St.  John's  College  was  founded  ip  1841  by  Bishop  (subsequently 
Archbishop)  Hughes.  The  first  president  was  John  McCloskey,  who 
later  became  the  first  American  Cardinal.     In   1846,  the  college  parsed 


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384  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

into  the  hands  of  the  Jesuits  and  the  Seminary  of  St.  John's  was 
founded  under  the  name  of  St.  Joseph's,  which  in  1864  was  removed 
to  Troy,  and  in  1896  to  Dunwoodie  in  the  township  pf  Yonkers.  St. 
John's  meanwhile  had  reverted  to  the  control  of  Archb'fehop  Hughes.  In 
1907  the  name  was  changed  to  Fordkam  University, 

The  buildings,  grounds  'and  athletic  field  occupy  the  site  of  the 
Old  Rose  Manor  House,  which,  including  98  acres  oi  ground,  was 
acquired  at  a  cost  of  $30,000.  Tradition  says  that  this  was  the  scene 
of   Fenimore  Cooper's  novel,   "The   Spy." 

Fronting  the  principal  college  building^  and  plainly  visible  from 
the  windows  of  the  3d  Ave.  Elevated  trains,  is  a  bronze  statue  of 
Archbishop  Hughes,  heroic  size,  resting  on  a  granite  pedestal  (unveiled 
1891;  IV.  R.  O' Donovan,  sculptor).  Archbishop  Hughes  was  born  in 
Ireland,  and  came  to  this  country  as  a  poor  Irish  immigrant,  a  ^r- 
dener  by  trade,  who  fought  his  way  through  colleges,  was  made  priest 
in  1825,  Bishop  in  1*838  andand  Archbishop  in  1850. 

Nearby  is  a  statue  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  Regina  Sodalium,  erected 
1887. 

Nearby  is  Fordham  Hospital  (PI.  XI — D3)  Crotona  ave. 
and  Southern  Boulevard,  for  the  destitute  sick  and  i?;jjured, 
has  a  capacity  of  150  beds.  Visiting  days  Mon.  and  F.  6  to  8 
p.  m.,  Wed.  and  Sat.,  2  to  4  p.  m. 

IV.     Woodlawn  Cemetery 

*JVoodla7vn  Cemetery,  covering  396  acres,  extends  be- 
tween Webster  and  Jerome  Aves.,  from  211th  to  233d  St.  It 
may  be  reached  either  by  Harlem  R.  R.  to  Woodlawn  Station 
or  by  Bronx  subway,  transferring  at  .14th  St.  to  3d  Ave. 
Elevated,  and  to  Webster  Ave.  trolley  from  Bedford  Park 
station  (fare,  10  cts.).  The  main  gateway  is  the  N.  E.  cor. 
on  Bedford  Ave. 

All  the  avenues  are  open  to  carriages  and  automobiles  (speed 
limit,  five  miles  per  hour) ;  but  in  order  to  enjoy  at  best  advantage 
the  architectural  and  sculptural  beauty  of  the  monuments  and  mauso- 
leums the  visit  should,  if  possible,  he  made  on  foot.  For  Woodlawn 
will  impress  the  tourist  less  as  a  peaceful  city  of  the  dead  than  as  a 
vast  collection  of  costly  works  of  art.  The  time  required  for  a  fairly 
comprehensive  circuit  of  the  principal  monuments  is  between  i^  to  2 
hours. 

From  the  main  entrance.  Central  Ave.,  starting  south, 
curves  in  a  huge  letter  S  diagonally  across  the  grounds  to 
the  S.W.  entrance  on  Jerome  Ave.  By  following  Central 
Ave.,  the  visitor  passes  a  majority  of  the  chief  points  of 
interest,  with  the  added  advantage  that  he  will  not  lose  his 
way  or  waste  time  by  retracing  steps. 

The  Collis  P.  Huntington  Mausoleum  is  the  first  notice- 
able one  S.  of  the  entrance.     (Robert  Caterson,  architect). 

It  is  on  the  R.,  high  up  on  a  steep  embankment,  a  Greek  temple, 
surrounded  by  sixteen  columns  and  four  massive  corner  pilasters  of 
red  granite.  It  is  approached  by  a  stately  staircase  of  27  steps,  with 
terraces. 


386  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Continuing  on  Central  Ave.,  we  reach  on  L.,  where 
Ravine  Ave.  branches  off,  the  grave  of  Admiral  Farragut 
(1801-1870). 

It  stands  a  little  back  from  the  avenue,  a  simple  broken  mast  of 
marble,  draped,  on  a  granite  base;  at  the  foot  of  the  mast  are  anchors, 
ropes  and  other  symbols  of  naval  life.     Erected  by  his  wife  and  son. 

Opposite,  on  the  W.  side  of  Central  Ave.,  is  the  Mauso- 
leum of  Marshall  O.  Roberts. 

It  is  a  gothic  structure  of  granite,  with  columns  of  polished  red 
marble.  It  occupies  a  wide  circular  lot,  enclosed  by  a  low  balustrade 
of  granite.      (JVilliam  F.  Dodge,  architect). 

Central  Ave.  here  curves  to  W.  On  R.,  100  yards  further, 
is  the  grave  of  Frank  Leslie. 

A*be  monument  is  a  simple  granite  sarcophagus.  The  inscription 
proclaims  him  "The  pioneer  and  founder  of  illustrated  journalism; 
his  life  work  speaks  through  the  artistic  and  literary  monuments  he 
has  left  behind  him;  his  aim  was  to  popularize  art  and  make  it  a  com- 
mon helper  of  men."  His  wife,  who  for  many  years  continued  his 
work,  lies  beside  him. 

Continuing  on  Central  Ave.,  we  reach  on  L.  a  square 
granite  pedestal  supporting  an  urn;  it  marks  the  grave  of 
the  publisher,  Charles  Scribner  (1821-71).  Just  beyond, 
where  Catalpa  Ave.  branches  off  to  L.,  is  the  simple  <Tranite 
sarcophagus  of  Samuel  Irenius  Prime.     (1812-85). 

Dr.  Prime  was  best  known  to  the  American  public  as  editor  of 
the  New  York  Observer.  His  epitaph  proclaims  him,  "Faithful  min- 
ister of  Christ  for  forty  years,  and  a  leader  of  the  religious  press. "^ 

Continuing  S.  on  Central  Ave.,  we  reach  Lake  Ave. 
To  R.  we  come  to  grave  of  John  Christopher  Draper  (1835- 
85),  Professor  of  chemistry  in  N.  Y.  University.  Further  W. 
near  lake  is  the  Mattheison  Mausoleum.  Materials:  colored 
marble  and  granite;  many  stained  glass  windows. 

Further  S.  on  Central  Ave.,  where  Observatory  Ave. 
branches  off,  is  the  Sloane  Mausoleum,  a  small  Ionic  temple. 
Beyond,  due  S.,  on  a  spacious  circular  knoll,  is  the  Jay  Gould 
Mausoleum,  an  exquisitely  proportioned  temple,  surrounded 
by  thirty  Ionic  columns.  Directly  to  W.  is  the  monument  to 
Austin  Corbin  (1827-86),  a  simple  block  of  granite.  Still 
further  W.  is  the  Whitney  monument,  a  huge  monolithic  shaft 
of  dark  gray  polished  marble'  (McKint,  Mead  &  White, 
architects),  iuirther  S.  on  Central  Ave.,  where  it  is  crossed 
by  Lawn  Ave.,' we  reach,  at  the  S.  E.  cor.,  the  Mausoleum  of 
William  F.  Foster  (1841-95). 

It  consists  of  a  massive  canopy  of  white  granite,  supported  by   16 
columns  of  polished  pink  marble  so  placed  as  to  form  a   Greek  cross. 


WOODLAWN  CEMETERY  387 

Opposite,  on  R.,  is  the  tomb  of  John  H.  Hinton,  M.D. 
Beside  the  door  a  female  figure  is  dropping  lilies  as  a  tribute. 
To  L.  on  Central  Ave.  is  the  Coster  Mausoleum.  (Archi- 
tect,  Charles  J.  Berg;  bronze  by  John   Williams). 

In   this   vicinity    (still   on   R.   of    Central   Ave.),    is   the 

Mausoleum  of  G.  P.  Morosini,  the  entrance  guarded  by  two 

^  lions.     {Jardine,  Kent  and  Jardine^  architects.)     Beyond  on 

R.  are  the  Everard  and  the  Ehret  Mausoleums.     Next   (still 

on  R.,  the  last  before  we  reach  the  S.  W.  gate)   the  Gates 

Mausoleum. 

The  chief  feature  is  the  bronze  entrance  door:  against  the  grilled 
door  leans,  in  high  relief,  a  beautiful,  partly  draped  female  figure,  with 
outstretched  arms  and  face  hidden,  symbolizing  Grief. 

Almost  directly  S.,  by  West  Border  Ave.,  in  the  centre 
of  a  circular  elevation,  is  the  Oliver  H.  P.  Belmont  Mauso- 
leum, an  adaptation  from  St.  Hubert's  Chapel,  at  Amboise, 
France, — the  last  resting  place  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci. 

On  the  front  facade  is  represented  in  relief  the  Conversion  of 
St.  Hubert.  In  the  tympanum  above,  in  three  sections,  are^  shown 
(as  in  the  original),  Charles  VIII  and  Anne  of  Brittany  his  wife 
prostrated  at  the  feet  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Infant  Jesus.  Of  the 
stained-glass  windows,  sixteen  are  purely  decorative;  the  three  chancel 
windows  represent  St.  Raphael,  St.  Gabriel  and  St.  Michael  (by  Helen 
Maitland  Armstrong).  The  material  of  the  chapel  is  limestone.  Note 
the  carved  stag-horns  and  gargoyles  on  the  spire  (Hunt  and  Hunt, 
architects) . 

Return  N.  along  West  Border  Ave.  and  turn  E.  on 
Chestnut  Ave.     Note  on  R.  Armour  Mausoleum. 

An  ostentatious  structure,  designed  by  Renwick,  Aspenwall  &  Owen. 
Its  chief  feature  is  its  dome,  a  solid  mass  of  cast  bronze,  weighing  z8 
tons  (bronze  by  John  Williams). 

Opposite,  to  L.,  is  a  lofty  octagonal  structure,  still  (1916) 
unfinished.     It  is  the  Harbeck  Mausoleum. 

It  is  a  three-story  structure,  octagonal  in  form,  the  lower  story 
being  in  the  French  Gothic  order,  with  gargoyles,  surmounted  by  a 
story  of  composite  design,  with  romanesque  semi-circular  arches  and 
Corinthian  columns,  while  the  whole  is  reinforced  with  flying  but- 
tresses. The  structure  is  surrounded  by  a  bas-relief  frieze  of  dancing 
children. 

The  visitor  may  leave  the  cemetery  by  the  west  gate, 

taking  Jerome  Ave.  trolley,  or  may  return  to  starting  point, 

keeping  near  to  the  W.  and  N.  boundaries,  where  there  are 

many  monuments  that  repay  a  visit. 

If  time  permits,  look  also  for  the  Pulitzer  Memorial  iDundan 
Chandler,  architect:  W.  O.  Partridge,  sculptor) ;  the  Storrs  Monument, 
{New  England  Monument  Co.,  architects) ;  the  Goelet  Mausoleum 
(McKim,  Mead  &  White,  architects;  the  McMilan  Memorial  (D'Oench 
&  Yost,  architects).  Also  the  grave  of  De  Long,  hero  of  the  ill-fated 
Arctic  expedition;   not  far  from  that  of  Farragut. 


388  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

A  detour  may  be  conveniently  made  to  the  Montefiore 
Home  (four  blocks  S.  from  W.  gate  of  cemetery  on  Jerome 
ave.  to  Gun  Hill  road ;  also  reached  by  Broadway  Subway 
to  207th  St.,  then  E.  by  Yonkers  ave.  trolley).  It  is  a 
home  for  incurables,  established  in  1884  as  a  Hebrew  char- 
ity, but  became  a  city  institution  in  1914,  after  it  had  re- 
moved from  its  former  site  at  138th  st.  and  Broadway.  It  , 
consists  of  a  group  of  eight  buildings,  of  brick,  terra  cotta 
and  limestone,  erected  from  plans  by  Arnold  W.  Brunnef 
and  Buckntan  and  Fox,  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000. 

It  is  now  a  non-secretarian  charity  hospital,  for  patients  whose 
apparent  incurability  or  the  protracted  course  of  their  diseases  pre- 
vents them  from  being  received  at  other  .  hospitals  and  asylums 
Capacity,  450.  Visiting  days,  Wednesdays,  Saturdays  and  Sundays, 
2  to  4  P.  M.  Patients  who  are  able  to  leave  the  institution  in  an 
improved  condition  are  aided  from  the  Discharged  Patients'  Fund. 

VII.  Eastern  Section  of  the  Bronx 

Including  Pelham  Bay  Park 

The  points  of  interest  in  this  section  are  widely  scattered,  and 
even  with  the  help  of  the  available  trolley  lines,  involve  considerable 
walking.  The  Harlem  branch  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hart- 
fort  R.  R.  brings  the  visitor  more  quickly  and  conveniently  than  any 
other  line  to  practically  all  the  places  mentioned  below,  and  for  that 
reason  the  descriptions  here  given  will  follow  the  cotM'se  of  this  road. 
Take  the  3d  Ave.  Elevated  to  129th  St.  and  change  to  the  shuttle 
train  connecting  with  the  Harlem  Division.  The  trip  to  Pelham  Bay 
Park  occupies  about  an  hour  from  downtown.  Fare  to  City  •  Islana, 
formerly  called  Bartow,  loc.  The  recently  opened  New  York,  West- 
chester &  Boston  R.  R.  has  stations  at  corresponding  intervals  through- 
out the  Bronx  section,  and  while  they  lie  for  the  most  part  further 
W.  and  involve  more  walking,  they  will  save  the  tourist  time  because 
of  the  greater  frequency  at  which  trains  run  (local  trains  every  20  min.) 

Leaving  the  Harlem  Rivet  station  the  train  runs  for  a 
short  distance  along  Bronx  Kills.  The  first  station  is  Port 
Morris  (.97  mi.),  at  138th  St.  Port  Morris,  like  Morrisania, 
takes  its  name  from  the  Gouverneur  Morris  family.  It  was 
here,  in  the  East  River,  that  the  Great  Eastern  anchored 
after  her  first  trip  to  New  York.  Here,  also,  a  little  further 
S.  the  British  war  frigate,  Hussar,  laden  with  British  gold 
and  American  prisoners,  sank  in  1780.  Off  the  coast  here  lie 
North  and  South  Brothers  Islands.  Near  this  shore  was  the 
scene  of  the  steamer  disaster  of  the  General  Slocum,  an 
excursion  boat  that  burned  and  foundered  with  terrible  loss 
of  life,  June  15,  1904. 

Riverside  Hospital  on  North  Brother  Island,  is  devoted  to  the  care 
of  contagious  diseases  and  advanced  cases  of  tuberculosis.  The  Island 
may  be  reached  by  boat  from  E.  i32d  St.  every  hour,  and  from  E. 
26th  St.  daily,  about  noon. 


EASTERN  SECTION  OF  THE  BRONX  389 

Casanova  (1.96  mi.)  at  Leggett  Ave.;  few  trains  stop  here. 

The    station    takes    its    name    from    the    famous    Casanova 

Mansion,  which  formerly  stood  a  little  to  the  W.  at  Southern 

'  Boulevard  and  Leggett  Ave.    (named   from   Mayor   Leggett 

of  Westchester). 

This  dwelling  was  considered  in  its  time  (1859),  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  houses  in  the  U.  S.  It  contained  secret  rooms  and  under- 
ground   passages    and    its    door-knobs    were    of    solid    gold. 

The  next  stop  is  Hunt's  Point  (2.63  M.)  A  surface  car 
taken  at  the  station  runs  to  the  Joseph  Rodman  Drake  Park, 
on  the  point,  containing  the  grave  of  the  poet  for  whom  it  is 
named,  author  of  "The  American  Flag"  and  "The  Culprit 
Fay,"  etc.   (d.  1820). 

The  first  street  crossed  is  Lafayette  Ave.,  formerly  Lafay/;tte  Lane. 
When  Gen.  Lafayette  came  from  Boston  to  New  York  in  1824,  via 
Fox  Comers,  he  was  met  by  a  delegation  and  escorted  up  this  lane, 
which  was  afterwards  named  in  his  honor.  It  is  told  that  he  "paused 
in  silent  meditation  at  the  grave  of  Joseph  Rodman   Drake." 

The  "Culprit  Fay"  was  written  as  the  result  of  a  wager  made 
by  Drake  with  Fitz  Greene  Halleck  and  two  other  friends,  following 
a  discussion  in  which  Drake  maintained  that  the  Hudson  River  High- 
lands afforded  as  romantic  a  setting  for  an  imaginative  poem  as  the 
Highlands  of  Scotland.  The  tract  of  land  recently,  made  a  city  park, 
in  memory  of  the  poet,  has  not  yet  been  improved.  It  includes  the 
quaint  old  ■  burial  lot  containing,  in  addition  to  Drake's  grave,  those 
of  the  earliest  members  of  the  Hunt  family,  from  whom  Hunt's  Point 
was  named.  The  Bronx  Society  of  Arts  ^  and  Sciences  has  recently 
placed  on  the  simple  shaft  a  tablet  containing,  in  addition  to  the  date 
of  the  poet's  death,  Sept.  21st,   1820,  the  lines  by  Fitz-Greene  Halleck: 

"Green  be  the  turf  above  thee, 
Friend   of   my   better   days, 
None   knew   thee   but   to    love   thee, 
None  named  thee  but  to  praise." 

The  next  stop  is  Westchester  Avenue  (3.25  mi.)  Take 
Westchester  ave.  surface  car  and  transfer  to  Clason's  Point 
car  to  reach  Clason's  Point  Military  Academy  and  Clason's 
Park  on  the  point. 

Clason^s  Point  was  settled  in  1643  by  Thomas  Cornell.  In 
"Clason's  Point  Inn"  there  is  the  following  inscription:  "In  the  year 
1643  Thomas  Cornell  bought  this  point  from  the  Indians.  Part  of 
this  house  is  the  original  building  constructed  by  him." 

From  here  a  Ferry  runs  to  College  Point.  Screven's 
Point  to  the  N.  with  Castle  Hill  Park  at  the  extremity  is  in- 
accessible by  trolley;  it  is  reached  from  Westchester  ave.  by 
Castle  Hill  ave.  Farther  to  the  N.  lies  Ferris  Pont,  without 
trolley  connections,  reached  from  Westchester  ave.  by  177th  st. 
and  Ferris  ave.  The  railroad  crosses  the  Bronx  River  before 
reaching  West  Farms  (3.93  M.)  This  section  though  still 
within  the  limits  of  Greater  New  York  begins  to  contain  large 


390  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

open  spaces  and  even  some  cultivated  land.  The  conventional 
apartment  houses  rising  in  the  midst  of  fields  present  an  in- 
congruous appearance. 

The  next  stop  is  Van  Nest  (4.87  mi.)  The  large  group 
of  buildings  to  the  east  of  the  station  is  the  New  York  Catho- 
lic Protectory  where  between  four  and  five  thousand  destitute 
or   delinquent   children   under    16   are   housed. 

This  institution  was  incorporated  in  1862.  It  comprises  a  Boys' 
Protectory  in  charge  of  the  Brothers  of  the  Christian  schools;  a  Girls' 
Protectory,  in  the  charge  of  the  Sisters  of  Mt.  St.  Vincent  (in  both 
of  these  trades,  agricultural  and  dairy  work  and  domestic  and  other 
industrial  employments  are  taught) ;  5"*.  Philips  Home  for  Industrious 
Boys,  417  Broome  St.;  and  the  Lincoln  Agricultural  School,  at  Lincoln- 
dale,  N.  Y. 

Westchester  Square  is  reached  by  surface  cars.  "  The  land 
on  which  Westchester  Village  is  situated  was  purchased  from 
the  Indians  in  1654.  Fighting  occurred  here  October  12,  1776, 
preceding  the  Battle  of  Pell's  Point  (p.  391). 

The  center  of  the  original  Westchester  Village,  the  oldest  in 
the  county  is  at  the  juncture  of  Westchester  ave.  and  West 
Farms  and  Williamsbridge  Roads.  On  the  E.  side  of  Westchester 
Square  stands  St.  Peter's  church,  organized  in  1700.  Its  chime  of 
bells  is  said  to  date  back  to  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne.  The  oldest 
tomb-stones  in  the  church-yard  are  dated  17 13.  On  the  bank  of  the 
near-by  Indian  Brook  it  is  said  that  George  Fox,  1672,  addressed  the 
first  Quaker  meeting  held  in  America.  A  little  to  the  N.  is  Westchester 
Greek  Causeway,  where  an  important  battle  was  fought,  Oct.  12th,  1776, 
the   British   being  finally  repulsed. 

Fort  Schuyler  lies  at  the  extreme  end  of  Throgg's  Neck 
(known  to  the  Indians  as  Quinshung).  This  tract  was  settled 
in  1642  by  John  Throgmorton,  who  came  here  with  thirty- 
five  Baptist  families  from  Rhode  Island  and  the  Providence 
plantations. 

The  trolley  runs  only  a  short  distance  along  Fort  Schuyler 
Road  (transfer  at  Westchester  Square).  A  party  of  15  adults 
applying  in  advance  to  the  Commandant,  Ft.  Schuyler,  may 
obtain  a  pass  to  go  by  governmenf  boat  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  or 
Sat.  to  the  Fort.  The  fortifications,  are  antiquated,  having 
been  begun  in  1833.  The  reservation  is  used  as  a  training 
station  for  recruits. 

Morris  Park  (5.43  mi.)  Flag  station,  train  stops  only  on 
signal. 

Westchester  (5.81  mi.).  To  the  east  on  the  shore  is  the 
Westchester  Country  Club,  reached  by  motor  or  other  vehicle 
from  the  Eastern  Boulevard.  The  road  crosses  Westchester 
Creek  and  goes  under  the  Bronx  and  Pelham  Parkway,  the 
boulevard  which  joins  the  two  parks. 


EASTERN  SECTION  OF  THE  BRONX  39i 

Baychester  (7.26  mi.)  The  tract  of  land  to  the  right  is 
a  part  of  Pelham  Bay  Park, 

City  Island,  formerly  Bartow  (8.25  mi.)    Alight  here  for 

Pelham  Bay  Park.     (The  3  other  stations  on  this  branch, 

beyond  the  park,  Pelham  Manor,  Woodside,  and  New  Rochelle 

are  outside  the  city  limits.)     East  Chester  lies  about  midway 

between  the  park  and  Woodlawn  Cemetery.     It  can  be  most 

directly  reached  by  the  New  York,  Westchester  and  Boston 

Line. 

Eastchester  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  group  of  villages  in  this 
section  and  was  originally  an  Indian  settlement.  The  most  interesting 
of  its  old  landmarJcs  is  St.  Paul's  church,  dating  from  1765,  opposite 
the  site  of  the  original  church  built  in  1669.  The  church  possesses  an 
old  bell  and  other  historical  relics,  which  were  buried  for  protection 
during  the  war  of  the  Revolution.  The  adjoining  churchyard  contains 
about  6000  graves.  Two  tomb-stones  have  recently  been  erected  by  the 
Bronx  Chapter  of  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution: 
I.  "Here  lie  interred  the  skeletons  of  American  Revolutionary  soldiers, 
found  at  Tuckahoe  in  1909";  2.  "This  marks  the  site  of  the  sand  pit 
in  which  are  buried  those  Hessian  soldiers  who  died  in  the  church  while 
used   as   a   hospital    in    1776.** 

Pelham  Bay  Park  contains  about  1756  acres,  only  partly 
improved.  As  a  public  play-ground  it  offers  facilities  for  the 
widest  diversity  of  sports  of  any  of  the  city  parks,  having 
grounds  for  baseball,  football,  tennis,  cricket  and  lacrosse; 
an  athletic  field  and  facilities  for  bathing,  boating,  camping, 
picnicking,  cross-country  runs,  etc.  The  golf  links  lie 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  Pelham  Bridge  Road  (Eastern 
Boulevard)  to  the  N.  of  the  station.  This  road  leads  to  Hunt- 
er's Island  and  Twin  Island  beyond.  No  trolley.  Take  City 
Island  trolley  from  the  crossroads  a  few  rods  from  the  sta- 
tion. On  a  boulder  to  the  right  of  the  track  about  a  mile  from 
the  station  is  a  tablet  erected  by  the  Mt.  Vernon  Chapter  of 
the  D.  A.  R.  commemorating  the  Battle  of  PelVs  Point,  Oct. 
18,  1776,  when  Col.  Glover  with  550  men  delayed  the  British 
under  Howe,  to  give  Washington  time  to  get  the  main  army 
to  White  Plains.  Colonial  Inn  (a  summer  restaurant  and 
hotel)  is  a  fine  old  mansion  with  white  pillars,  to  the  left  of 
the  track,  just  before  crossing  the  bridge.  Nearby  is  the  park 
camping  ground. 

The  Hutchinson  River^  which  flows  through  Pelham  Bay  Park,  and 
empties  into  Eastchester  Bay,  takes  its  name  from  one  _  of  the  early 
settlers,  Ann  Hutchinson,  whose  home  was  near  the  Pelfiam  boundary 
line,  and  whose  entire  family  was  wiped  out  in  an  Indian  massacre. 
See  at  upper  end  of  park,  on  L.  of  Prospect  Ave.  "Split  Rock," 
a  gigantic  boulder,  with  a  large  tree  growing  through  the  cleft. 
According  to  tradition  Ann  Hutchinson's  youngest  daughter  perished 
on  this  rock. 

City  Island  (which  is  not  part  of  Pelham  Bay  Park,  but 
is  privately  owned),  is  said  to  owe  its  name  to  a  project  once 


392  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

entertained  of  founding  a  city  here  which  should  outrival 
New  York.  The  quaint  old  streets,  with  their  ancient  and 
picturesque  dwellings,  well  repay  a  desultory  ramble.  The 
Macedonia  Hotel  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  the  sur- 
viving relics.  It  is  reached  by  leaving  the  c^r  at  Ditmars 
St.  and  walking  to  the  eastern  shore.  A  very  old  wing  of 
the  hotel  obviously  built  of  ship's  materials  bears  the  inscrip- 
tion :  "This  House  is  the  remains  of  the  English  Frigate  Mace- 
donia captured  on  Friday,  October  25th,  i8i3,  by  the  United 
States  Frigate  United  States  commanded  by  Stephen  Decatur 
U.S.N.  The  action  was  fought  Lat.  24  N.  Long.  29'  36"  W. 
that  is,  600  Miles  N.  W.  of  the  Cape  Verde.  Islands  off  the 
W.  coast  of  Africa.  Towed  to  Cowbay  in  1874.  Shore  din- 
ners 50  cents."  Historians  assert,  however,  that  the  ship  was 
another  Macedonia  of  ^  later  time,  used  as  a  training  ship  by 
our  navy.  Long  tables  covered  with  white  enamel  cloth  arc 
set  under  cover  in  front  of  the  house  in  foreign  fashion. 
Chowder  15  c.  Directly  opposite  is  Hart's  Island,  city  prop- 
erty, the  present  Potter's  Field.  (Pass  from  Dept.  of  Correc- 
tion, 124  Leonard  st.  Ferries  from  foot  of  26th  st.  daily  at 
10  a.  m.,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.) 

Leaving  the  Macedonia  and  continuing  down  the  island 
by  the  one  street,  one  passes  on  the  left,  first  Miller^s 
and  later  Jacob's  Shipyards  where  the  American  Cup  Defend- 
ers go  into  winter  quarters.  The  island  is  largely  given  over 
to  yacht  building.  Large  numbers  of  small  craft  of  all  kinds 
are  anchored  in  the  sound  about  during  the  summer,  the  own- 
ers motoring  out  from  the  city.  Boats  of  all  kinds  are  to  be 
hired.  Little  bathing.  At  the  point  of  the  Island  to  the  left 
is  the  Norton  House,  a  small  frame  building,  the  oldest  house 
on  the  island.  To  the  right  is  Belden  Hotel,  formerly  a  resi- 
dence. Food  served  on  the  veranda.  Prices  for  simple  food 
are  annoyingly  high,  but  the  View  is  delightful  and  the  breeze 
refreshing.    Straight  ahead  is  Stepping  Stones  Light. 

This  light  takes  its  name  from  one  of  the  so-called  Devil's  Stepping 
Stones,  a  row  of  rocks  projecting  into  the  Sound.  According  to  an 
old  Indian  legend  the  Devil,  retreating  from  Westchester  county  to 
Long  Island7  gathered  up  all  the  stones  he  could  find  in  Long 
Island  and  hurled  them  across  at  his  red-skinned  enemies.  Hence  the 
abundance  of  boulders  in  Westchester  and  the  lack  of  them  in  Long 
Island. 


?  ^^JwlS^  ^' Oa*W«'l«limd  I 


Plate  XV 


\ 


\ 


YONKERS  393 

Yonkers 

Yonkers  is  not  a  part  of  New  York  City  but  a  separate 

municipality.     Inasmuch,  however,  as  it  immediately  adjoins 

the  Borough  of  The  Bronx  on  the  north  it  may  be  most 

conveniently  considered  here. 

Yonkers  is  reached  by  railway  via  New  York  Central  and  Hudson 
River  Railroad,  from  the  Grand  Central  Station;  single  fare,  30  cents; 
round-trip,  50  cents;  or  by  Putnam  Division,  from  8th  ave.  and  155th 
St.;  single  fare,  25  cents;  round-trip,  40  cents.  Most  of  the  various 
Hudson  River  steamers  stof)  at  Yonkers,  but  the  hours,  early  morning 
and  late  afternoon,  make  this  method  of  approach  impracticable  for  the 
tourist.  Yonkers  can  also  be  reached  in  several  ways  by  trolley;  either 
straight  up  Broadway  from  Van  Cortlandt  Park;  from  Jerome  ave. 
'  or  Webster  ave.,  changing  to  McLean  ave.  car;  or  f rom  .^ount  Vernon, 
the  most  picturesque  of  all  these  trolley  routes.  Also,  most  con- 
veniently, by  Broadway  subway  to  Van  Cortlandt  Park,  and  thence 
by  trolley  up  South  Broadway  to  Getty  Square. 

Hotels  and  Restaurants.  The  one  hotel  in  Yonkers  is  the  Getty 
House,  on  Getty  Square,  an  unpretending,  old-fashioned  commercial 
hotel.  In  South  Yonkers,  in  the  restricted  residential  colony  called 
Park  Hill,  is  the  Pork  Hill  Inn,  with  a  restaurant  much  patronized  by 
automobile  parties.  Just  N.  of  this  Inn,  where  South  Broadwav  and 
New  Main  st.  fork,  is  Francf art's,  an  old-establisUed  road  house  (French 
cuisine).  Further  S.,  near  McLean  ave., •is  Skanley's  a  recently  estab- 
lished branch  of  the  well-known  New  York  restaurant  of  that  name. 

Yonkers,  the  sixth  largest  city  in  New  York  State,  is 
situated  on  the  cast  bank  of  the  Hudson,  15  m.  N.  of  the 
Grand  Central  Station.  Its  principal  residential  section 
stretches  northward  from  Getty  Square  for  about  three 
miles,  to  the  village  of  Hastings.  It  is  situated  on  a  pic- 
turesque slope,  rising  steeply  from  the  river  front,  with  a 
succession  of  fine  avenues,  lying  one  above  another,  bordered 
by  many  large  estates,  with  comfortable  old-fashioned  dwell- 
ings. Yonkers  is  also  a  prosperous  manufacturing  center, 
and  the  influx  of  factory  workers  in  recent  years  is  largely 
responsible  for  its  present  estimated  population  (1916)  of 
79,800. 

History.  Yonkers  was  settled  about  1650,  its  name  being 
derived  from  a  popular  corruption  of  the  Dutch  title,  De 
Jonkheer,  the  "Young  Lord,"  by  which  the  first  owner  of 
this  territory,  Adrian  Van  der  Donck,  was  known.  Van  der 
Donck  retained  title  to  much  of  the  land  which  is  now 
Yonkers  until  1672,  after  which  it  became  included  in  Philipse 
Manor  (p.  395),  until  1779.  The  part  now  constituting  the 
business  center  of  Yonkers  was  then  known  as  Philipsburg. 
The  township  of  Yonkers  was  first  organized  in  1788;  the 
village  of  Yonkers  was  incorporated  in  1855;  in  18;^  the 
town  was  divided,  and  the  southern  portion,  known  as  Kings- 
bridge,  was  annexed  to  New  York  in  1874. 


394  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Going  by  Subway  we  pass  along  the  W.  side  of  Van  Cort- 
landt  park,  reaching  at  its  upper  boundary,  the  dividing  line 
between  New  York  City  and  Yonkers.  For  the  next 'mile  there 
is  a  succession  of  residential  colonies :  Caryl,  Lowerre  and 
Park  Hill,  the  latter  situated  on  one  of  the  highest  elevations 
in  Yonkers,  rising  precipitously  on  the  R.  of  Broadway 
reached  by  a  funicular  railway).  It  is  a  high  class  residential 
park,  with  numerous  property  restrictions,  a  Country  Club, 
and  a  small  but  attractive  artificial  lake. 

South  Broadway  now  curves  to  the  L.  and  ascends  a  hill, 
on  the  crest  of  which  (to  left)  is  the  St.  Joseph's  Hospital 
(founded  i8qp),  under  the  auspices  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity 
of  Mount  St.  Vincent.  Diagonally  opposite  is  the  recently 
erected  Saunders  Trades  School.  A  little  further,  half-way 
down  the  hill,  we  pass  on  the  right  the  Yonkers  High  School, 
just  W.  of  which  is  Washington  Park,  containing  the  new 
City  Hall  and  the  Yonkers  Public  Library.  The  Library 
stands  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  the  Park;  it  was  donated  by  Mr. 
Carnegie,  designed  iby  E.  A.  Quick  and  Son,  and  completed 
in  1904  at  a  cost  of  $50,000. 

The  City  Hall,  also  designed  by  Quick  and  Son,  stands 
just  N.  of  the  Library,  on  the  higiiest  ground  in  the  Park. 
It  cost  in  the  neighborhood  of  $500,000. 

The  Common  Council  Chamber,  on  the  4th  floor,  contains  eleven 
mural  paintings,  by  Vincent  Aderente  and  Alonzo  E.  Poring er,  illustra- 
tive of  the  "History  of  Yonkers." 

North  Wall:  i.  Over  entrance  door,  Yonkers  Past  and  Present; 
on  R. :  Laying  the  Corner  Stond  of  the  City  Hall;  on  L. :  The  Pur- 
chase of  the  Land  by  Van  der  Donck. 

East  Wall:  in  the  centre.  Industrial  Science;  on  either  side: 
Views  of  the  Palisades. 

West  Wall:    Before  the  White  Man. 

North  and  South  walls,  in  corners,  four  long,  narrow  panels,  in 
dull  browns  and  yellows,  presenting  old  historic  buildings  of  Yonkers. 

Directly  opposite  is  Proctor's  Palace  Theatre,  a  spacious 
vaudeville  hall.  Further  N.  on  left,  is  the  Hollywood  Inn,  a 
club-house  dedicated  to  the  interests  of  working-men. 

The  club  was  started  in  1894  by  the  Brotherhood  of  St.  Andrew, 
an  association  composed  of  members  of  St.  John's  Church  (P.  E.). 
Two  years  later,  through  the  generosity  of  William  F.  Cochran  (1832- 
ipoi;  see  memorial  tablet),  the  present  building  was  erected  {George 
Stirratt,  architect).  It  contains  a  gymnasium,  ■  bowling-alleys,  billiard 
and  pool  rooms,  a  library  and  an  assembly  hall  with  a  seating  capacity 
of  500. 

On  the  opposite  (N.  W.)  corner  stands  St.  John's  Prot- 
estant Episcopal  Church,  organized  in  1694.    The  first  church 


YONKERS  395 

edifice  was  erected  in  1752;  in  1791  it  was  partly  destroyed 
by  fire;  a  year  later  it  was  rebuilt  in  the  original  form;  the 
present  structure  was  built  in  1870.  > 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  original  church  (1752)  still  survives, 
including  all  the  south  wall  of  the  present  building,  with  its  venerable 
door  and  windows;  also  the  south  transept  and  part  of  the  east  wall, 
with  two  windows  of  the  old  chancel;  and  the  ola  bell. 

One  block  further  N.  brings  us  to  Getty  Square,  the  cen- 
tre of  Yonkers*  business  activity  and  starting  point  for  the 
principal  trolley  lines  to  New  York,  Mount  Vernon,  Tucka- 
hoe,  Hastings,  etc.  On  the  E.  side  of  Broadway  are  the 
principal  Yonkers  banks;  also  the  passenger  station  of  the 
N.  Y.  and  Putnam  R.  R,,  and  on  the  cor.  of  New  Main  St., 
the  Getty  House,  a  commercial  hotel.  To  the  N.  radiate  Park 
Ave,,  Palisade  Ave.  and  North  Broadway,  the  chief  residential 
section,  occupied  by  fine  old  estates  with  spacious  grounds, 
many  of  them  commanding  extensive  views  of  the  Hudson 
River.  W.  from  Getty  Sq.,  Main  St.  leads  down  to  the  water 
front  and  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  Station,  crossing  Warburton 
Ave.  midwa3'.  One  block  N.  on  Warburton  Ave.  brings  us  to 
the 

**Philipse  Manor  Hall,  erected  in  1693  and  granted  by 
royal  charter  to  Frederick  Philipse,  First  Lord  of  the  Manor. 
By  act  of  Legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York,  the  Manor 
was  confiscated  in  1779  and  in  1785  was  sold  by  the  Commis- 
sioners of  Forfeiture.  In  1868  it  was  purchased  by  the  Vil- 
lage of  Yonkers,  and  became  the  City  Hall  in  1872.  It  is 
now  a  colonial  museum,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Yonkers 
Historical  and  Library  Association.  (See  memorial  tablet, 
by  A.  Weinert.) 

The  Philipses  were  originally  a  noble  Bohemian  family,  who  at  an 
early  date  settled  in  Friesland,  Holland.  They  came  to  America  about 
the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  perhaps  in  1647  with  Peter  Stuyvesant. 
The  chief  popular  traditions  of  the  old  Manor  centre  around  Mary 
Philipse,  the  beautiful  and  talented  daughter  of  the  second  Lord  of  the 
Manor,  grandson  of  the  first  Frederick  Philipse.  One  day  when  visiting 
at  the  New  York  home  of  her  brother-in-law,  Beverly  Robinson,  she  met 
Colonel  Washington,  who  conceived  a  warm  admiration  for  her.  .  The 
story  that  he  made  her  an  offer  of  marriage  is  unauthenticated ;  but  the 
tradition  that  he  was  a  frequent  visitor  at  the  Manor  gives  an  additional 
glamor  to  its  ancient  rooms.  Another  visitor,  of  whose  frequent  presence 
there  is  no  doubt,  since  she  later  became  his  wife,  was  Roger  Morris. 
It  was  while  riding  back  and  forth  between  New  York  and  Yonkers 
that  he  became  impressed  with  the  beauty  of  the  heights  overlooking 
the  Harlem  River  at  what  is  now  161  st  St.  Accordingly  it  was  there 
that  he  built  the  historic  old  Jumel  Mansion  (p.  351),  to  which  he 
brought  Mary  Philipse  as  his  bride  in  1758. 

The  Manor  Hall  suffered  considerable  damage  during  the  years 
when  it  was  occupied  by  the  offices  of  the  various  city  departments.  It 
has  since  undergone  extensive  renovation,  the  rooms  restored  to  their 
original  design  and  appearance,  and  furnished  with  chairs  of  the  Colo- 


396  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

nial  period,  all  of  American  make:  American  Windsor  chairs  and  set- 
tees, and  American  Chippendale  and  Jacobean  tables,  all  dating  from 
the  third  quarter  of  the  i8th  century. 

The  oldest  portion  of  the  Manor  Hall  faces  the  south.  Note  the 
great  massive  door  in  the  center  of  the  southern  facade,  made  in  Hol- 
land in  1 68 1  and  imported  by  the  first  Lady  Philipse  in  one  of  her  own 
vessels.  A  door  in  one  of  the  u^per  rooms  swings  on  wooden  hinges. 
The  first  story'  windows  are  provided  with  outer  shutters,  while  those 
in  the  second  story  have  inside  shutters.  Every  chimne^  has  a  deep 
closet  on  each  side.  Note  especially  the  Dutch  fireplace  in  the  south- 
west room,  second  story.  It  has  a  cast  iron  fireback  dated  1760,  pictur- 
ing the  ravens  bringing  food  to  Elijah.  The  fireplace  jambs  are  three 
feet  deep  and  lined  with  old  Delft  blue  and  white  tiles,  with  scriptural 
illustrations.     (A  "History  of  the  Manor  Hall"  is  on  sale,  price  50  c.) 

Second  only  in  interest  to  the  historic  old  building  itself 

is  the   *  Alexander  Smith   Cochran   Collection   of   American 

Historical  Portraits  which  it  now  contains.     The  collection 

includes    works    by    forty-two    different    artists,    twenty    of 

whom  are  not  represented  in  the  Metropolitan  Museum. 

First  Floor,  East  Room:  1.  Henry  Jntnan,  James  Madison;  2.  Rob- 
ert Edge  Pine,  Gen.  Horatio  Gates,  Major-General,  Continental  Army; 

3.  Edward  Savage,  Gen.  Henry  Knox,  Major-General,  Continental  Army; 

4.  Benjamin  West,  Benjamin  Franklin,  "the  Tuckerman  Portrait;"  5. 
James  Herring,  Col.  Henry  Lee,  "Light  Horse  Harry"  Lee,  Continental 
Army;  6.  John  Singleton'  Copley,  Henry  Laurens,  First  President  of  the 
Congress  of  the  United  States;  7.  Gilbert  Stuart, .  Robert  Gilmor;  8. 
Gilbert  Stuart,  Charles  Pinckney,  Governor  of  South  Carolina;  9.  Stuart, 
Robert  Young;  10.  James  Peale,  Washington;  11.  Charles  IVillson  Peale, 
James  Monroe;  12.  Matthew  Jouett,  Brig-G.en.  George  Trotter;  13. 
Charles  Peale  Palk,  Thomas  Jefferson;  14.  Rembrandt  Peale,  Washing- 
ton; i^.  C.  W.  Peale,  Washington;  16.  Rembrandt  Peale,  Washington; 
17.  Wxlliam  Winstanley,  John  AdamsL;  18.  Gilbert  Stuart,  Martha  Wash- 
ington; 19.  Stuart,  George  Washington;  20.  James  Sharpies,  Alexander 
Hamiltoh^  21.  Asa  Warren,  George  Washington;  22.  Thomas  Sully, 
John  Quincy  Adams;  23.  William  B.  Chambers,  John  Marshall;  34. 
James  Sharpies,  George  Washington. 

First  Floor,  Hall:  25.  Charles  X.  Harris,  Andrew  Johnson;  26. 
William  E.  McMaster,  James  Buchanan;  27.  Charles  Bird  King,  Lafay- 
ette; 28  Jane  Stuart,  Portrait  of  her  Father,  Gilbert  Stuart;  29.  Jacob 
Eichholtz,  William  H.  DeLancy;  30.  John  Vanderlyn,  Tobias  Has- 
broucke;  31.  John  Trumbull,  George  III,  King  of  England;  32.  East- 
man Johnson,  Portrait  by  the  Artist. 

First  Floor,  Hall  Room:  33.  Eastman  Johnson,  Chester  Alan 
Arthur;  34.  David  B.  Bechtel,  James  A.  Garfield;  35.  Eastman  John^ 
son,  G.  V.  L.  Pruyn;  36.  Charles  Loring  Elliott,  Zachary  Taylor;  37. 
Thomas  Eakins,  Rutherford  B.  Hayes;  38.  /.  Beaufoin  Irving,  General 
Washington  calling  upon  Col.  Rhalle. 

Second  Floor,  East  Room:  39.  Alban  Jasper  Conant,  Abraham 
Lincoln;  40.  William  Edgar  Marshall,  William  McKinley;  41.  Eastman 
Johnson,  Benjamin  Harrison;  42.  Matthew  Wilson,  Abraham  Lincoln; 
43.  Eastman  Johnson,  Grover  Cleveland;  44.  G.  R.  Lambdin,  Franklin 
Pierce;  45.  William  Edgar  Marshall,  Ulyms  S.  Grant;  46.  Frank  B. 
Carpenter,  John  Tyler;  47.  Frank  B.  Carpenter,  Millard   Fillmore. 

Second  Floor,  West  Room:  48.  John  W.  Jarvis,  Daniel  M.  Tom- 
kins;  49.  Chester  Harding,  William  Wirt;  50.  Samuel  Waldo,  Andrew 
Jackson;  51.  Bass  Otis,  William  Henry  Harrison;  52.  Matthew  Pratt, 
Benjamin    Franklin;    53.   Benjamin    West,    Portrait   of   the   Artist;    54. 


YONKERS  397 

John  Trumbull,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  55.  James  Peale.  Major  Hamil- 
ton, Continental  Army;  56.  Henry  Inman,  Martin  Van  Buren;  57.  John 
N eagle,  Henry  Clay;  58.  Thomas  Sully,  James  K.  Polk;  59.  George  B. 
Butler,  Thomas  F.  Bayard;  60.  Rembrandt  Peale,  Zebulon  Montgomery 
Pike,  Brigadier-General  in  the  war  of  1812-14;  Discoverer  of  Pike's 
Peak 

Second  Floor,  Hall:  61.  William  Sergeant  Kendall,  William 
Howard  Taft. 

Second  Floor,  Hall  at  top  of  East  Stair:  Two  Unnumbered  Por- 
traits: I.  James  Blackwell,  who  at  one  time  owned  Blackwell's  Island 
( 1 748-1 881);  2.  Eliza  H.  Wells,  daughter  of  James  Blackwell,  and 
wife  of  Samuel  Wells,  who  once  owned  Manor  Hall. 

Directly  in  front  of  Manor  Hall  stands  the  Soldiers' 
Monument,  surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue  of  a  soldier  of  the 
Civil  War.  Below,  on  the  four  sides  of  the  square  granite 
base,  are  other  bronze  statues,  symbolic  of  Courage,  Valor, 
Patriotism  and  Endurance. 

If  time  permits,  the  visitor  should  not  fail  to  take  the 
picturesque  trolley  ride  N.  to  the  end  of  the  Warburton  Ave. 
line.  For  three  miles,  the  route  commands  a  series  of  fine 
views  of  the  Hudson  River  and  the  Palisades  opposite.  As  the 
car  nears  Hastings,  it  passes  "Greystone,"  once  the  home  of 
former  Governor  Samuel  J.  Tilden,  one  of  the  founders  of 
the  New  York  Public  Library. 


BROOKLYN 

I.     Preliminary   Information 

History.  The  site  of  Brooklyn  originally  belonged  to  the 
Canarsie  Indians,  one  of  thirteen  tribes  of  the  Algonquin 
Nation  which  formerly  possessed  Long  Island.  The  present 
Borough  of  Brooklyn  has  been  built  up  by  the  consolidation 
of  a  number  of  small  towns,  which  originated  in  a  series  of 
purchases  from  thesfe  Indians,  the  most  important  being 
made  between  1636  and  1638.  According  to  the  "Historical 
Guide  to  the  City  of  New  York"  the  first  authentic  purchases 
from  these  Indians  were  made  June  16,  1636,  and  included: 
I.  Part  of  Flatbush;  2.  Flatlands,  S.  of  Paedergat  (except 
Barren  Island) ;  3.  Flatlands  Neck. 

More  important  than  these  are  the  following  purchases : 
in  1638,  a  tract  of  930  acres  of  Gowantis,  acquired  by  Jacques 
Bent)ai  and  William  Adriaense  Bennett;  the  "Maize  lands 
of   Meryckawick,"  acquired  by  Jan  Evertsen  Bout;  and  in 


398  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

1637,  335  acres  on  Wallahout  Bay  (called  by  the  settlers  the 
"Waalbogt"),  bought  by  Joris  Jansen  de  Rapelje,  a  Walloon. 
In  1638,  the  West  India  Company  bought  a  tract  of  land, 
nearly  E.  of  Wallabout  Bay,  on  which  the  original  hamlet 
of  Boszmjck  (Bushwick)  sprang  up. 

In  1642,  a  ferry  was  established  across  the  East  River, 
between  points  approximately  coinciding  with  the  present 
Peck's  Slip,  Manhattan,  and  Fulton  st.,  Brooklyn;  and  a 
hamlet,  called  The  Ferry,  sprang  up  at  the  Brooklyn  end. 

It  was  in  1643  that  another  group  of  settlers  established 
themselves  along  the  highway  of  Flatbush,  about  a  mile  from 
the  ferry.  It  was  this  settlement  that  was  named  Breuckelen, 
after  an  old  town  about  18  miles  from  Amsterdam,  Holland. 
In  1646  the  "Five  Towns" — namely,  Breuckelen,  Wallabout, 
The  Ferry,  Gowanus  and  Bedford  (an  inland  settlement) 
were  united  under  the  name  of  Breuckelen,  which  in  1667 
received  a  patent  from  Gov.  Nicolls.  In  1665,  Midwout 
(later  Flatbush)  was  founded,  and  the  first  church  built 
there  the  same  year,  one  year  earlier  than  the  erection  of  the 
first  Dutch  church  in  Breuckelen. 

The  transfer  from  Dutch  to  English  rule  affected  the 
settlers  very  little.  Under  the  English  rule,  Long  Island 
and  Staten  Island  were  called  Ridings  of  Yorkshire,  Kings 
County,  Newton  and  Staten  Island  constituting  the  West 
Riding.     This  designation  continued  in  use  until  1683. 

In  1675,  Brooklyn's  population  included  60  assessed  per- 
sons, with  a  valuation  of  5204  polmds  sterling.  In  1698,  the 
population  was  509,  including  65  slaves.  At  the  beginning  of 
the  Revolution,  the  population  was  about  3500. 

After  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution,  no  town  meeting 
was  held  until  1784,  when  it  was  discovered  that  all  the  town 
records  had  disappeared.  It  is  supposed  that  they  were  re- 
moved by  the  Rapelje  family,  who  were  British  S3mipathizers 
and  whose  estates  had  been  confiscated. 

The  most  important  historical  event  in  the  history  of 
Brooklyn  is  the  Battle  of  Long  Island.  When  the  British 
landed  on  Long  Island  in  August,  1776,  the  American  forces 
had  protected  three  out  of  four  roads  leading  to  Brookl3m. 
The  fourth,  a  roundabout  way  on  the  Jamaica  Road,  was  at 
once  recognized,  by  the  British  as  of  stratjegic  importance. 
The  battle  began  on  August  17,  when  Gen.  Howe  (British), 
sending  two  detachments,  respectively,  by  the  middle  pass  and 
the  shore  road  to  Gowanus,  himself  took  the  Jamaica  road. 
The  short  road  detachment  drove  the  Americans  back  to  the 
region  now  occupied  by  Greenwood  Cemetery,  while  Howe 
closed  in  upon  them  in  the  rear.    In  the  subsequent  retreat, 


BROOKLYN— PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION     399 

Sullivan,  the  American  commanding  officer,  was  captured. 
The  one  conspicuous  exhibition  of  heroism  was  that  of  the 
Maryland  regiment,  which  at  heavy  loss  held  back  the  British 
until  the  rest  of  the  American  forces  were  safely  transferred, 
under  cover  of  a  fog,  to  New  York. 

Brookl)ai  was  held  by  the  British  until  1783.  During  the 
Revolution  the  British  prison  ships  were  moored  in  Walla- 
bout  Bay,  and  it  has  been  estimated  that  approximately  11,500 
prisoners  died  on  board  these  vessels  from  fever,  starvation 
and  ill  treatment.  The  mortality  on  the  notorious  New 
Jersey  was  exceptionally  high. 

After  the  evacuation  by  the  British,  Brooklyn  slowly 
pulled  itself  together.  New  ferries  were  started,^  new  mills 
were  built,  new  churches  and  schools  were  organized,  and  a 
fire  department  introduced.  Brooklyn  was  incorporated  as  a 
village  in  1816  and  received  its  charter  in  1834.  A  disastrous 
fire  in  1848  swept  away  seven  blocks  of  buildings  on  and  near 
Fulton  St.  In  1855,  Williamsburg  and  Bushwick,  including 
Greenpoint,  were  consolidated  with  Brooklyn.  New  Lots, 
including  East  New  York,  was  annexed  in  1886;  Flatbush 
and  Gravesend  in  1894 ;  Flatlands  in  1896,  thus  making  Brook- 
lyn co-extensive  with  Kings  County  and  the  largest  city  ter- 
ritorially in  the  state,  comprising  66.39  square  miles.  Under 
the  act  of  legislature  of  1897,  creating  Greater  New  York, 
the  city  became  the  Borough  of  Brooklyn. 

Hotels.  Owing  to  its  proximity  to  Manhattan  and  its 
character  as  essentially  a  city  of  homes.  Brooklyn  possesses 
extremely  few  hotels  in  proportion  to  its  population  and  ter- 
ritorial extent.  A  majority  of  those  of  the  first  class  are 
situated  on  Brooklyn  Heights,  but  a  few  are  to  be  found  in 
the  newer  district  in  the  vicinity  of  Washington,  Bedford 
and  St.  Mark's  avenues. 

♦Hotel  Bossert  (PI.  XIII — B4)  at  Remsen,  Hicks  and  Montague 
sts. ;  Brooklyn's  largest  and  most  modern  hotel,  with  attractive  res- 
taurant, palm  room,  concert  hall,  etc.  European  plan;  R.  from  $1.50, 
R.  with  bath  from  $2.50,  for  two  persons  from  $3.50. 

♦Hotel  Montague  (PI.  XIII — B4),  Montague  St.,  near  Hicks; 
American  plan;  from  $1.50. 

Hotel  Margaret  (PI.  XIII — A3),  at  the  corner  of  Columbia 
Heights  and  Orange  st. ;  American  plan,  from  $3.50;  European  plan, 
from  $1.50- 

Hotel  St.  George  (PI.  XIII— A3),  at  Clark,  Hicks  and  Pine- 
apple sts.;  European  plan,  from  $1.00. 

Hotel  Touraine  (PI.  XIII — A3),  Clinton  st.,  near  Pierrepont; 
European  plan,  from  $2.00. 

Mansion  House  (PI.  XIII— A4),  on  Hicks  st.,  between  Clark 
and  Pierrepont;  American  plan,  from  $3.00;  European  plan,  from  $1.00; 
reasonable  terms  for  families. 


400  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Clarendon  Hotel  (PI.  XIII— B3),  at.  Fulton.  Johnson  and  Wash- 
ington sts. ;  European  plan,  from  $1.50. 

The  Hohawk  at  the  corner  of  Washington  and  Greene  aves. ;  suites 
of  from  five  rooms  with  bath;  American  plan,  from  $4.00;  European 
plan,  from  $2.50. 

St.    Mark's    Hotel    at  the  corner  of  Bedford  and  St.  Mark's  aves. 

Restaurants.  The  leading  Brooklyn  hotels  have  good 
restaurants,  notably  the  Hotel  Margaret,  Hotel  Bossert,  and 
Hotel  Clarendon.  The  following  list  will  be  found  useful  by 
tourists   for   luncheon  purposes: 

*The  Imperial,  360  Fulton  st.  *S^sbe's,  509  Fulton  st.  The 
Severen,  32-34  Court  st.,  corner  Remsen  st.  SchummEs  Cafe,  52  Court 
St.  Joe's,  332  Fulton  st.  Guinden's,  359  Flatbush  ave.  Palm  Tea 
Room,  82  Pierrepont  st. 

Lunch  lA>om8.  There  are  Child's  Restaurants  at  Nos.  366,  530  and 
633  Fulton  St.,  26  Court  st.     Baltimore  Dairy,  389  Fulton  st. 

Theatres:    The  following  is  a  selected  list  of  Brookl3m*s 

many  theatres :  v 

Academy  of  Music  (PI.  XIII — D3),  Lafayette  Ave., 
near  Fulton  St.    Opera  and  concerts.    Seating  capacity,  2200. 

Boxes  (six  and  eight  seats'),  $24.00  and  $40.00;  Orchestra,  $5.00; 
ist  and  2d  balcony,  $3.00,  $2.00,  $1.50.  In  the  spring  there  is  usually 
a  short  season  of  Grand  Opera  in  English  at  popular  prices:  25,  50 
and   75c.   and  $1.00. 

MoNTAUK  Theatre  (PI.  XIII — C3),  Livingston  St.  and 
Hanover  PI.,  capacity  1550. 

Evenings:  Orchestra,  $1.50  and  $1.00;  balcony,  $1.50,  $1.00  and 
75c.;  second  balcony,  50c.;  box  seats,  $2.50,  $2.00  and  $1.00;  mati- 
nees: orchestra,  $1.00;  balcony,  75  and  50c.;  second  balcony,  25c.; 
box  seats,  $2.00,  $1.50  and  $1.00. 

Grand  Opera  Theatre  (PI.  XIII— C3),  14  Elm  PI. 
Seating  capacity,  1600. 

Evenings:  50  and  30c.;  balcony,  30  and  20c.;  box  seats,-  75  and 
50c.;    matinees:    orchestra,   2Sc.;   balcony,    15c.;    box   seats,   50c. 

Keith's  Orpheum  Theatre  (PI.  XIII— C3),  579  Fulton 

St.     Vaudeville.     Seating  capacity,   1800. 
Evenings:     All  seats,  50c.;   matinees,  2Sc. 

Casino  Theatre  (PI.  XIII — C3),  98  Flatbush  ave. 

Olympic  Theatre  (PI.  XIII — B3),  348  Adams  st. 
Vaudeville  and  Photoplays. 

Evenings:  Orchestra,  •75,  50  and  25c.;  balcony,  50  and  25c.;  box 
seats,  $1.00;  matinees:  orchestra,  50  and  25c.;  balcony,  25c.;  box 
seats,  $1.00. 

Majestic  Theatre  (PI.  XIII — D3),  Fulton  st.  near  Ash- 
land PI.     Seating  capacity  1844. 

$1.50,  $1.00,  75,  50  and  25c.     Box  seats,  $2.00. 

Prospect  Theatre,  327  Ninth  st.     Capacity  2453. 

Evenings:  Orchestra,  75,  50  and  35c.;  balcony,  50  and  3sc.; 
second  balcony,  15c.;  box  seats,  7Sc.;  matinees,  50  and  35c.;  balcony, 
15c.;    second   balcony,    15c.;    box   seats,    50c. 


\ 


'  .'.    '    I 


I 

I 


..«.>•.  ..aarx 


FULTON  FERRY  TO  BOROUGH  HALL    401 

II.     From  Fulton  Ferry  to  Borough  Hall 

Fulton  St.,  extending  eastward  from  Fulton  Ferry  to 
Cypress  Hills,  a  distance  of  about  six  miles,  has  aptly  been 
called  the  "Broadway  of  Brooklyn,"  since  it  passes  successively 
through  the  municipal,  financial  and  business  centres,  and  the 
chief  residential  districts  lie  conveniently  adjacent.  It  is 
traversed  by  one  branch  of  the  Brooklyn  Elevated  Railroad 
system  and  by  several  of  the  trolley  lines  which  cross  the 
'Brooklyn  Bridge  to  Park  Row.  The  lower  portion  of  it  now 
offers  little  to  attract  the  sight-seer,  the  dingy  shops  are 
many  of  them  vacant,  as  the  course  of  trade  has  moved  up 
beyond  Borough  Hall,  or  else  they  have  made  way  for  still  more 
dingy  warehouses.  Whatever  landmarks  of  historic  interest 
were  spared  by  the  sweeping  fire  of  1848,  disappeared  more 
recently  before  the  wholesale  clearance  necessitated  by  the 
terminal  tracks  and  stations  of  the  Bridge.  Visitors  would 
therefore  find  it  more  profitable  to  turn  at  once  to  the  right  at 
No.  20,  up  the  steep  ascent  of  Columbia  Heights  (if  they  have 
come  by  ferry),  or  up  Cranberry  St.  (if  by  the  Bridge)  and 
follow  the  route  outlined  on  page  406.  At  Sands  St.,  just 
below  Cranberry,  the  cleared  space  where  the  bridge  cars 
turn  into  Fulton  st,  was  formerly  the  site  of  the  old  Sands 
Street  Church  and  graveyard.  Just  above  this  point,  where 
Fulton  St.  bends  sharply  to  the  right,  the  way  was  lined  with 
a  magnificent  row  of  arching  elms.  Talleyrand,  the  famous 
French  cynic  and  diplomat,  lived  for  a  time  on  Fulton  St., 
opposite  Hicks,  during  his  brief  exile  in  America,  and  a  daily 
walk  under  those  elms  was  one  of  his  chief  pleasures. 

Three  streets  further  E.,  on  the  N.  side,  brings  us  to 
Concord  st.  Here  a  short  excursion  to  the  N.  may  con- 
veniently be  made.  At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Concord  and  Adams 
sts.  we  reach  Public  School  No.  i,  a  plain  red-brick  structure, 
dating  from  1842  and  occupying  the  site  of  the  first  district 
school  of  Brooklyn,  established  in   1816. 

It  was  also  in  1816  that  the  first  (Union)  Brooklyn  Sunday  School 
was  held  here  in  the  original  school-house.  Note  the  tablet  in  gable 
of  main  facade. 

Continuing  on  Concord   St.   two  blocks   N.   to  Jay   St., 

we  reach,  at  the  N:  E.  cor.  of  Jay  and  Chapel  Sts.,  St,  James 

PrO'Cathedral,  the  earliest  Roman  Catholic  church  on  Long 

Island. 

The  church  stands  in  the  midst  .of  the  old  Catholic  graveyard 
(said  to  contain  about  6000  graves).  Its  unpretentious  exterior  in  no 
way  prepares  the  visitor  for  the  sense  of  spaciousness  and  rich  coloring 
which  greets  him  as  he  enters.  The  interior  is  cruciform,  and  contains 
numerous   memorial   windows.      In   the   S.   W.   cor.   of   the   church-yard 


402  RIDZR'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

is  a  bronze  bust  of  Peter  Turner  (1787-1863),  the  founder  of  the  church, 
who  according  to  the  memorial  tablet  on  the  pedestal  "on  January  ist, 
1822,  organized  his  seventy  fellow  Catholics  for  the  purchase  of  this 
ground."  Among  these  seventy  organizers  was  the  father  of  the  late 
Cardinal    McClosky. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Pro-Cathedral,  across  McLaughlin  Park, 
stands  Public  School  No.  5,  2l  large  modern  structure,  con- 
taining in  its  main  auditorium  a  large  mural  painting  (30X  10 
ft),  by  Frederick  S.  Lamb.  It  is  in  three  panels  and  repre- 
sents Washington  with  his  officers  in  the  Fortifications  of 
Brooklyn,  before  the  Battle, of  Long  Island. 

Returning  to  Fulton  st.  and  continuing  eastward  two 
blocks,  we  reach  the  junction  with  Clinton  St.,  on  the 
right,  long  considered  the  Fifth  ave.  of  Brooklyn,  and 
still  a  favorite  Sunday  promenade.  The  clearing  oppo- 
site was  once  the  site  of  St.  Ann's  Church  and  burial  ground, 
a  name  commemorated  in  St.  Ann's  stores,  which  in  their  turn 
disappeared.  Passing  Tillary  St.,  we  come  to  Johnson,  which 
Drings  us  (one  block  north)  to  Washington  St.  On  the 
nearer  left-hand  corner  is  the  Clarendon  Hotel.  Directly 
opposite  is  the  *Federa[  Building  (PI.  XIII — B3),  a  massive 
structure  of  Maine  granite,  in  the  romanesque  order  of  archi- 
tecture. At  the  southeast  corner  is  a  tower  25  feet  square  and 
184  feet  in  height.  This  building  contains  the  Central  Post 
Office  and  the  Federal  courts  and  offices.  The  cost  of  building 
and  site  was  $1,671,651.  It  is  a  finely  proportioned  structure, 
but  disadvantageously  placed.  Opposite  on  the  southeast 
comer  of  Washington  st.  is  the  Brooklyn  Eagle  Building,  the 
home;  of  Brooklyn's  most  widely  known  newspaper,  which  in- 
cludes the  name  of  Walt  Whitman  in  its  line  of  editors. 

Whitman  was  appointed  in  February,  1846,  and  resigned  in  Janu- 
ary, 1848,  the  owners  of  the  paper  not  approving  of  his  vigorous  anti- 
slavery  editorials.  Whitman  was  at  that  time  living  on  Myrtle  Avenue 
near  Fort  Greene,  and  it  was  largely  owing  to  his  persistent  advocacy 
that  the  old  battle-ground  was  secured  to  Brooklyn  as  a  park.  The 
Eagle  office  was  at  that  time  on  Fulton  Street,  near  Front. 

The  Eagle  Building  stands  on  the  site  of  the  Brooklyn  Theatre, 
opened  1871,  and  burned  down,  December,  1876,  with  a  loss  cf  295 
lives.    1 00  unclaimed  bodies  are  buried  in  Grcejiwood  Cemetery  (p.  445)- 

Returning  to  Fulton  St.,  we  continue  one  block  to  the 
point  where  Court  St.  branches  to  the  right,  at  the  intersection 
with  Montague,  and  forms  with  Fulton  a  long,  narrow 
isosceles  triangle  with  its  base  on  Joralemon  St.,  constituting 
Borough  Hall  Park.  Borough  Hall  (formerly  City  Hall) 
occupies  an  advantageous  position  at  the  eastern  end  of  the 
triangle,  with  its  rear  fagade  on  Joralemon  St.,  and  its  main 
approach  facing  the  apex.  It  is  the  oldest  of  Brooklyn's 
public  buildings,  its  corner-stone  having  been  laid  in  April, 
1836,  on  ground  acquired  by  the  city  from  the  Remsen  estate. 


FULTON  FERRY  TO  BOROUGH  HALL    403 

the  memory  of  which  is  preserved  in  Rem  sen  St-,  whose  north- 
ern end  adjoins  the  park  midway  on  the  Court  St.  side. 

History.  The  City  Hall,  as  first  ambitiously  designed,  was  to  be 
a  triangular  structure  of  stately  dimensions,  occupying  the  greater  part 
of  the  one  and  two-thirds  acres  that  comprise  the  present  park.  Accord- 
ing to  a  contemporary  description  the  exterior  was  ''to  be  of  marble  and 
to  have  porticos  on  all  three  fronts,  with  columns  36  feet  in  height, 
ornamented  with  capitals  of  the  Grecian  order,  from  the  desijs^  of  the 
Tower  of  the  Winds,  resting  on  a  pedestal  base  17  feet  high.  The 
angles  are  to  be  surmounted  oy  domes.  In  the  centre  will .  be  a  tower 
125  feet  high,  enriched  with  a  cornice  and  entablature,  supported  by 
caryatides  on  pedestals."  The  severe  commercial  depression  of  1837 
interrupted  the  progress  of  the  work,  and  for  a  decade  the  unsightly 
foundations  remained  at  a  standstill.  Finally  work  was  resumed  on 
a  much  modified  scale  and  the  building  completed  in  1849.  As  it  now 
stands  it  is  not  t.iangular  but  an  oblong  rectangle;  there  is  only  one 
portico,  and  its  central  tower  (a  late  and  inharmonious  addition, 
replacing  the  original  well  designed  tower,  which  was  destroyed  by 
fire)  has  no  caryatides.  But  otherwise  the  early  description  applies 
in  a  general  way. 

Directly  facing  the  portico,  in  Borough  Hall  Park,  is  a  fine 
♦Statue  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  by  John  Quincy  Adams 
Ward,  a  rugged  bronze  figure  of  heroic  proportions,  enveloped 
in  the  folds  of  an  ample  cloak.  On  the  left  is  a  life-size 
figure  of  a  bare-footed  negress,  laying  a  palm'  branch  at  the 
feet  of  the  statue;  on  the  right  are  a  small  boy  and  girl,  the 
latter  holding  the  end  of  a  garland  hanging  from  the  pedestal. 

Twenty  granite  steps  lead  up  to  the  portico  of.  Borough 
Hall.  On  entering  the  main  doorway,  we  find  ourselves  in  a 
large,  square  lobby,  two  stories  in  height  with  a  gallery  facing 
the  entrance,  sustained  by  a  double  row  of  Corinthian  columns. 
The  lobby  contains  a  rather  interesting  collection  of  portraits, 
chiefly  of  former  mayors  of  Brooklyn.  (The  light  is  usually 
poor,  and  many  of  the  paintings  may  be  seen  most  advan- 
tageously from  the  gallery.) 

Wall  on  right  of  entrance:  large,  full-length  portrait  of 
George  Washington,  artist  unknown;  above,  Daniel  D.  Whit- 
ney, Mayor  1886-87,  by  Thomas  Jensen  (1831-88) ;  below, 
bronze  medallion  of  Edward  Swanstrom,  President  of  the 
Board  of  the  Borough  of  Brooklyn,  by  E,  T,  Quinn;  on  right, 
Samuel  Smith,  Mayor  1850,  by  James  Frothingham  (1786- 
1864)  ;  Conklin  Brush,  1851-52,  by  Francis  Bicknell  Carpenter, 
1839-1900;  Charles  A.  Schieren,  1894-95,  by  Richard  Creifelds 
1853 — ;  Daniel  Booth,  1866-67,  by  Junius  Brutus  Stearns, 
1810-85 ;  on  left,  Edward  A.  Lambert,  1853-54,  by  F.  B.  Car- 
penter; Henry  C.  Murphy,  1842,  by  John  Barnard  Whittaker; 
John  W.  Hunter,  1874-75,  by  /.  B.  Whittaker;  ♦Seth  Low, 
1882-83-84-85,  by  Wiiliam  Merritt  Chase,  1849—-.  (On  the 
left  wall :  in  centre,  large,  full-length  *portrait  of  Henry  Clay, 
by  P.  Staunton,    Above,  Martin  Kalbfleisch,  Mayor  1861-63, 


404  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

by  /.  B,  Stearns;  on  right,  Francis  B.  Stryker,  1846-48,  by  /. 
Frothingham;  Samuel  S.  Powell,  1857-60;  Joseph  Sprague, 
1843-44;  George  Hall,  1855-56,  all  three  by  Frothingham;  on 
left,  Cyrus  P.  Smith,  1839-41,  by  Frothingham;  Jeremiah 
Johnson,  1837-38,  by  William  Sidney  Mounts  ( 1806-68)  ;  Ed- 
ward Copeland,  1849,  by  Frothingham;  Jonathan  Trottpr, 
1883-86,  by  Samuel  L.  Waldo,  (1783-1861).  In  front  of  the 
two  central  columns  are  two  white  marble  portrait  busts: 
right,  Martin  Kalbfleisch,  by  /.  McNamee;  left,  Samuel  F. 
Powell,  artist  unknown.  Passing  beneath  the  balcony  we  find 
in  right  corridor,  Frederick  A.  Schroeder,  1876-77  by 
Thofhas  Jensen;  Alfred  M.  Wood,  1864-65,  by  Alanson 
Fisher  (1897-84) ;  Thomas  G.  Talmadge,  1845,  by  F.  B.  Car- 
pe;iter.     '^.eft  corridor:  James  Howell,  Jr.,   1878-80. 

The  central  door  under  balcony  opens  upon  stairs  leading 
to  the  rear  exit  upon  Joralemon  St.,  directly  opposite  the  site 
of  the  old  Municipal  Building  (1878)  that  has  just  been 
demolished  to  make  way  for  a  more  modern  structure.  To 
the  right  of  where  it  stood  is  a  wide  grass-grown  enclosure 
marking  the  former  site  of  the  First  Reformed  Church,  until 
it  moved  to  its  present  stately  edifice  at  the  corner  of  Seventh 
Ave.  and  Carroll  St.  (see  p.  41).  To  the  left  of  where  the 
Municipal  Building  stood  is  the  County  Court  House  (PI. 
XIII — B4),  dating  from  1861  and  chiefly  interesting  to  vis- 
itors as  the  scene  of  the  sensational  Tilton-Beecher  trial 
forty  years  ago.  An  extensive  Law  Library  is  contained  in 
Room  29. 

On  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  Court  House,  there 
was  once  a  widely  known  pleasure-garden,  called  Du  Flon's 
Military  Garden.  It  was  here  that  musical  and  histrionic  art 
began  in  Brooklyn. 

Adjoining  the  Court  House  on  the  L.  is  the  *Hall  of 
Records,  erected  in  1886  at  a  cost  of  $275,000.  The  building 
has  recently  (1902-5)  undergone  extensive  alterations  and  ad- 
ditions and  now  extends  along  Court  Sq.  all  the  way  to  Living- 
ston St.,  forming  one  of  the  most  stately  and  dignified  edifices 
in  this  group  of  public  buildings.  The  County  Clerk's  Offices 
are  on  the  ground  floor,  the  Surrogate's  Court  on  the  2d  floor, 
the  Register's  offices  on  the  3d,  and  those  of  the  Commis- 
sioner of  Deeds  on  the  4th. 

To  the  S.  on  Livingston  St.,  behind  the  site  of  the  re- 
cently demolished  Municipal  Building  is  the  substantial  red 
brick  group  of  buildings  comprising  the  Polytechnic  Institute 
(PI.  XIII — C3),  an  outgrowth  of  the  Brooklyn  Collegiate  and 
Polytechnic  Institute  founded  in  1854,  and  consisting  of  two 


BROOKLYN  HEIGHTS  405 

departments,  a  College  of  Engineering  and  a  preparatory 
school.  It  was.  reorganized  in  1890  and  received  a  collegiate 
charter.  It  confers  the  degrees  of  Bachelor  and  Master  of 
Arts  and  of  Sciences,  as  well  as  of  Civil,  Electrical  and 
Mechanical  Engineering.  There  is  still  a  preparatory  depart- 
ment.   The  library  contains  over  15,000  volumes. 

Before  leaving  Borough  Hall  Park,  we  should  take  a 
glance  at  the  banks,  business  and  office  buildings  which  flank 
it,  especially  on  tne  Court  St.  side.  Unlike  New  York,  Brook- 
lyn has  not  suffered  from  congestion  in  her  business  district, 
and  there  has  been  no  necessity  or  temptation  to  erect  sky- 
scrapers of  the  type  of  the  Metropolitan  or  Singer  buildings. 
Accordingly  the  few  ten  or  twelve  story  structures  along 
Court  St.  and  the  adjacent  cross  blocks  leading  west  to  Qinton 
look  qyite  substantial  and  prosperous,  by  comparison.  Such 
are  the  Terminal  Building,  at  the  southwest  corner  of  Court 
and  Joralemon,  a  twelve  story  structure  .of  stone  and  pale 
brick.  Yellow  brick  is  also  the  prevailing  material  of  Temple 
Bar  on  the  opposite  corner,  which  with  its  three  cupolas  is  a 
conspicuous  landmark.  The  western  half  of  the  block 
between  Joralemon  and  Remsen  sts.  is  occupied  by  the  four- 
story  building  of  the  United  States  Title  Guaranty  Company, 
the  Corinthian  facade  of  which  is  rather  pleasing.  Further 
in  the  distance  we  note  the  Garfield  Building,  tiie  Fidelity- 
Phoenix  Fire  Insurance,  the  Equitable  Life,  and  at  the  corner 
of  Fulton  and  Montague  sts.,  the  broad  and  curving  facade  of 
the  Mechanics'  Bank. 

III.     Brooklyn  Heights 

The  Heights  (PI.  XIII — A3),  for  nearly  a  century  the 
undisputed  center  of  Brooklyn  fashionable  life,  and  still  pre- 
ferred to-day  by  the  old  conservative  families  to  the  more 
modem  residential  sections,  comprises  a  tract  of  elevated  land 
lying  between  Fulton  St.  on  the  north  and  east,  Joralemon  St. 
on  the  south  and  the  water  front  on  the  west,  rising  in  an  al- 
most perpendicular  bluff  from  70  to  100  ft.  above  water  level. 
There  is  room  at  the  base  only  for  one  narrow  street 
Furman  St.,  and  two  rows  of  warehouses,  those  on  the  inland 
side  being  built  in  excavations  in  the  solid  rock  beneath  the 
gardens  behind  the  residences  on  the  upper  level.  Readers 
of  "The  Harbor,"  by  Ernest  Poole,  will  recall  the  descrip- 
tions of  these  streets. 

History^  The  tract  now  known  as  the  Heights  was  in  early  times 
called  the  "Maize  lands  of  Meryckawick,"  where  the  Canarsie  Indians 
grew  their  corn.  Later  it  received  the  name  of  Clover  Hill,  and  prior 
'  to  the  War  of  the  Revolution  was  still  partly  covered  with  woodland. 
The  last  of  the  trees  were  cleared  by  the  British  soldiers  for  military 
purposes  during  their  occupancy  of  Brooklyn,  and  that  portion  of  the 


4o6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Heights  included  within  Poplar,  Hicks,  Orange  and  Furman  Sts. 
was  used  during  the  War  of  the  Revolution  as  a  burial  place  for  British 
soldiers  and  sailors.  At  the  time  of  Brooklyn's  incorporation  as  a 
village  in   1816,  the  Heights  were  occupied  by  a  number  of  farms  of 


closely  the  original  boundary  lines. 

After  the  incorporation  of  Brooklyn  as  a  village,  building  lots  were 
in  demand  and  plans  were  made  to  lay  out  in  streets  the  southern 
portion  of  the  Heights,  as  had  already  been  done  with  the  section  above 
Clark  street.  Hezdciah  E.  Pierrepont,  a  wealthy  and  public-spirited 
man  of  his  time,  who  then  owned  over  sixty  acres  between  the  present 
Love  Lane  and  Remsen  street,  and  who  had  been  one  of  the  com- 
mittee that  framed  the  act  of  incorporation,  realized  the  mistake  that 
had  been  made  in  laying  out  the  northern  end  of  the  Heights  in  small 
two-hundred  foot  squares  of  about  an  acre  each,  with  narrow  streets. 
Accordingly  at  his  own  expense  he  secured  the  services  of  the  official 
surveyor  of  New  York  City,  with  the  result  that  south  of  Clark  Street 
the  blocks  are  double  the  length,  the  streets  more  spacious  attd  better 
suited  for  a  residential  district. 

For  the  visitor,  arriving  by  ferry  the  shortest  way  to  reach 
the  Heights  is  to  turn  at  No.  20  Fulton  St.  towards  the  right 
up  the  short  steep  slope  of  Columbia  Heights.  But  for  those 
crossing  the  bridge  by  trolley,  or  those  who  have  gone  first  to 
Borough  Hall  Park  by  subway  and  thence  down  Fulton  St, 
it  is  preferable  to  turn  off  at  Cranberry  St.  (170  Fulton).  It 
was  at  the  corner  of  Fulton  and  Cranberry  Sts.  that  Walt 
Whitman  worked  in  a  small  printing  shop  during  the  summer 
of  1855,  and  while  there  set  up  with  his  own  hands  the  greater 
part  of  Leaves  of  Grass.  It  was  published  in  July.  One  block 
west  on  Cranberry  St.  brings  us  to  Henry  St.,  at  the  s.  w. 
corner  of  which  is  the  City  Armory,  an  ungainly,  five-story 
structure  of  brick  and  brown-stone  dating  from  1858.  Its  only 
interest  is  that  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  first  Apprenticed 
Library,  the  origin  of  the  present  Brooklyn  Institute  of  Arts 
and  Sciences  (see  p.  424).  It  was  here  that  Lafayette  laid 
the  cornerstone  of  the  library  building,  July  4th,  1825.  The 
occasion  was  made  a  sort  of  festival  for  the  Brooklyn  school 
children,  and  Walt  Whitman,  then  a  child  of  six,  was  present. 
The  armory  is  now  a  factory  for  machinery  and  supplies. 
Continuing  west,  we  pass  a  drab  structure,  the  Catholic 
Church  of  the  Assumption.  Two  more  blocks  bring  us 
to  "^Columbia  Heights,  the  most  desirable  residential  street  on 
the  Heights.  The  houses  on  the  west  side  and  the  gardens 
behind  them  abut  on  the  high  bluff  above  Furman  St.,  and 
command  some  unrivaled  views  of  New  York  City  and  Har- 
bor. Five  little  parks,  barely  an  acre  in  extent  combined, 
corresponding  to  the  termination  of  the  five  streets  from 
Middagh  St.  to  Clark  St.,  afford  openings  in  the  Hne  of 
dwellings  on  the  water  side  of  Columbia  Heights  and  furnish 
a  series  of  interesting  vistas  of  the  harbor. 


BROOKLYN  HEIGHTS  407 

Turning  south  from  Cranberry  St.  into  Columbia  Heights, 
we  come  to  Orange  St.,  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of  which  stands 
the  Hotel  Margaret,  a  twelve-story  structure  of  cinnamon 
brick,  stone  and  iron.  Two  short  blocks  east  on  Orange  St., 
brings  us  to  **Plymouth  Church  and  the  Beecher  Mem- 
orial Buildings  (at  the  corner  of  Hicks  and  Henry  Sts. ; 
(PI.  Xni — A3),  enclosing  three  sides  of  a  small  park  or 
lawn,  with  the  church  on  the  East  and  an  arcade  on  the 
North  connecting  it  with  the  Memorial  Building  on  the  West. 
Plymouth  church  is  an  ungainly,  barn-like  structure  of  red 
brick,  erected  in  1847-50.  Here  Mr.  Beecher  preached  for 
forty  years,  drawing  crowds  of  strangers  from  miles  around 
almost  to  the  day  of  his  death. 

Henry  Ward  Beecher,  born  in  Litchfield,  Conn.,  June  2d.  181 -? 
was  brother  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  author  of  "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin," 
and  like  her  a  strong  abolitionist.  One  memorable  Sunday  he  thrilled 
his  congregation  by  leading  to  the  pulpit  platform  a  young  colored 
girl,  almost  white,  whose  own  father  haci  sold  her  into  slavery.  With 
his  contagious  enthusiasm,  Mr.  Beecher  proceeded  to  auction  her  off. 
mimicking  the  tricks  of  the  slave  auctioneer's  speech  and  gesture,  and 
soon  had  his  hearers  aroused  to  such  a  pitch  that  the  price  of  the 
girl's  liberty  was  promptly  raised.  "And  that  was  only  the  beginning," 
wrote  Mrs.  Stowe,  "My  brother  raised  the  price  of  many  a  slave's 
freedom  in  his  church."  His  services  were  recognized  at  thd*  close  of 
the  Civil  War,  when  he,  together  with  W-illiam  Lloyd  Garrison,  was 
chosen  to  rai^e  the  flag  over  Fort  Sumter. 

One»of  Beecher's  friends  was  Theodore  Tilton,  author  and  jour- 
nalist. For  a  short  time  Beecher  edited  the  Independent,  but  resigned 
in  Tilton's  favor.  Suddenly,  in  1870  Mr.  Tilton  became  jealous  of 
Mr.  Beecher,  accused  him  of  undue  intimacy  with  his  wife,  and  there 
followed  a  six  months'  trial  such  as  has  seldom  been  equalled  for 
sensationalism  and  partisanship.  Mr.  Beecher's  lawyer,  Thomas  G. 
Sherman,  cheerfully  donated  his  services,  giving  up  his  New  York 
practice  and  devoting  himself  to  his  pastor's  vindication.  The  result 
was  a  disagreement,  with  nine  to  three  in  Mr.  Beecher's  favor.  Other 
independent  investigations  were  more  unanimous,  and  Mr.  Beecher 
was  undoubtedly  stronger  after  his  trial  than  before. 

On  week-days  the  front  entrance  to  the  church  is  closed. 
Wo  may  enter  through  the  grassy  enclosure  on  the  left, 
which  contains,  close  against  the  arcade  in  the  rear,  the 
"Slave"  Statue  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  by  Gutson  Borglum 
a  virile  figure  in  bronze,  with  a  slave  girl  kneeling  at  his  feet. 
To  the  left,  on  the  wall  of  the  arcade,  is  a  bronze  panel, 
life-sized,  of  Abraham  Lincoln  seated,  also  by  Borglum, 
erected  by  the  Fort  Greene  Chapter  of  the  D.  A.  R.,  in  memory 
of  its  founder,  Mrs.  S.  V.  White,  a  prominent  member  of  the 
church  (the  first  of  a  projected  series  of  memorial  tablets). 
Entering  by  the  door  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  arcade,  we  turn 
to  the  right  through  a  hall-way,  and  again  to  the  right  through 
a  small  rear  door  into  the  auditorium  of  Plymouth  Church. 
The  impression  made  by  the  interior  is  not  unlike  that  of 


1 

t 

f 

408  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Spurgeon's  famous  church  in  London.  A  large,  steeply  sloping 
gallery  forms  a  huge  oval  around  the  entire  building,  broken 
only  by  the  width  of  the  organ  behind  the  pulpit.  A  second 
gallery  extends  across  the  street  end  of  the  building,  bringing 
up  the  total  number  of  pews  to  320,  with  a  seating  capacity  of 
about  2500.  The  church  is  little  changed  since  Mr.  Beecher's 
time.  There  is  the  same  organ,  the  same  chair,  the  same 
*pulpit  made  from  a  log  of  olive  wood  brought  from  the 
Mount  of  Olives  in  1867  by  a  member  of  the  church.  To  the 
left  of  the  door  through  which  we  entered  hangs  a  small 
^'Portrait  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  by  F.  William  Herring, 
probably  the  most  forceful  and  lifelike  of  his  many  portraits. 
The  one  important  change  since  the  installation  of  Dr. 
Newell  D wight  Hillis,  the  present  pastor,  is  the  series  of  inter- 
esting memorial  windows,  replacing  the  former  plain  glass, 
and  symbolizing  the  Progress  of  Civic  and  Religious  Liberty 
and  the  Spread  of  Education  in  America.  The  subjects  treated 
are  as  follows,  beginning  on  our  right  at  entrance  door :  i,  The 
Landing  of  the  First  Minister  in  New  York;  2,  Manassas 
Cutler:  Puritanism  in  the  West;  3,  Marcus  Whitman,  John 
Tyler,  Daniel  Webster.  On  opposite  side,  continuing  circuit 
from  front  to  rear:  i.  Haystack  Meeting,  Williams  College, 
1806;  2,  Evening  Prayer,  The  Huguenots,  The  Carolinas;  3,  \ 
William  Penn,  Peace  Movement,  Pennsylvania;  4,  Thomas 
Hooker,  the  First  Settlement  at  Hartford.  The  setond  tier 
of  windows  is  best  seen  from  the  gallery.  Passing  through 
the  vestibule,  to  reach  the  stairs,  we  note  the  Beecher  Me- 
morial Tablet,  unveiled  January  13,  1893:  "In  memoriam, 
Henry  Ward  Beecher,  first  pastor  of  Plymouth  Church,  1847- 
87;  'I  have  not  concealed  Thy  loving  kindness  and  Thy  truth 
from  the  great  congregation.'  "  Entering  the  gallery,  we  pro- 
ceed on  our  right  as  we  face  the  pulpit,  to  the  extreme  rear 
of  the  church.  Beginning  here,  the  subjects  treated  in  the 
Windows  are  as  follows :  i,  John  Milton  writing  his  Plea  for 
the  Liberty  of  the  Press;  2,  John  Robinson  praying  on  the 
deck  of  the  Speedwell;  3,  The  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims ;  4,  The 
founding  of  Harvard  College ;  at  front  end  of  church :  three 
windows  representing  famous  modern  champions  of  liberty 
and  education,  with  Abraham  Lincoln  in  the  centre,  a  group  of 
four  men  on  the  left  and  four  women  on  the  right.  The 
technical  skill  with  which  the  modern  dress  has  been  adapted 
to  the  exigencies  of  stained  glass  work  has  been  much  admired. 
West  side  of  church :  i,  John  Eliot  preaching  to  the  Indians ; 
2,  The  signing  of  the  Compact  on  board  the  Mayflower;  3, 
Oliver  Cromwell  announcing  to  George  Fox  the  personal 
Liberty  of  Worship ;  4,  John  Hampden  appealing  for  Bill  of 
Rights  before  Charles  I. 


i      ( 


X 


n?i 


•  a  •  ^m  '■  • 


BROOKLYN  HEIGHTS  409 

Behind  the  auditorium  is  the  church  parlor,  containing  an  extensive 
collection  of  Beechcr  relics,  including  portraits,  manuscripts,  etc. 
Among  other  things  of  interest  arc  the  orignal  clay  model  of  /.  Q.  A. 
Ward's  Beecher  statue,  which  stands  in  front  of  Borough  Hall  (see 
p.  403),  and  the  manuscript  of  Xorzi'o<yd,  together  with  the  quill  pen 
that  Beecher  dropped  over  the  banister  to  the  floor  below,  thrust 
through  a  paper  with  the  laconic  message  to  his  wife,  "It  is  finished." 
In  the  church  parlor  and  the  adjoining  Ladies'  parlor  arc  memorial 
windows  containing  the  following  portraits:  i,  Jonathan  Edwards; 
2,  Horace  Bushnell;  3,  Lyman  Beecher;  4,  Phillips  Brooks;  5,  William 
E.  Channing;  6,  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson;  7,  John  Greenleaf  Whittier. 
All  these  windows,  both  in  the  parlors  and  in  the  church,  are  severally 
dedicated  to  the  memory  of  former  parishioners,  among  others,  to 
John  Tasker  Howard,  (1808-88),  "Founder  of  Plymouth  Church,"  and 
to  Abby  Frances  Hunter,  1837-1907,  wife  of  Lyman  Abbott,  second 
pastor  of  Plymouth  Church. 

Returning  to  the  hall  through  which  we  entered,  we  pro- 
ceed by  way  of  the  arcade  to  the  Arhuckle  Institute,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Beecher  by  the  late  John  Arbuckle, 
a  wealthy  Brooklyn  merchant  and  philanthropist.  The  edifice 
was  dedicated  in  December,  1914,  and  at  the  end  of  the  first 
six  months  the  membership  had  reached  three  hundred.  In 
its  general  scheme  the  Institute  copies  many  of  the  features 
of  the  Young  Men's  and  Young  Women's  (Christian  Associa- 
tions, with  one  important  distinction :  namely,  that  its  founder 
believed  that  greater  advantages  could  be  obtained  at  a  de- 
creased cost  by  having  a  single  institution  for  the  two  sexes, 
and  by  giving  the  young  people  an  opportunity  to  associate  in 
congenial  and  properly  guarded  surroundings. 

The  present  building,  dedicated  in  December,  19 14,  is  a  model  of 
its  kind.  Everything  is  in  excellent  taste,  harmonious,  artistic  and 
restful.  The  prevailing  tones  are  brown  and  yellow.  The  entrance 
hall,  main  parlor  and  library  are  on  the  ground  floor,  separate  parlors 
for  the  men  and  the  women,  writing  rooms,  smoking  room,  and  hall  for 
dancing  classes  on  the  floors  above.  In  the  basement  are  the  baths  and 
bowling  alleys,  from  which  a  separate  stairway  leads  to  a  well  equipped 
gymnasium. 

The  various  industrial  courses  of  the  Arbuckle  Institute  will  eventu- 
ally be  conducted  in  another  building  to  be  erected  on  Hicks  St., 
when  the  present  structure  will  be  kept  wholly  for  social  purposes. 
At  present  the  classes  in  Accountancy,  English  Literature,  Home  Eco- 
nomics, Social  and  Aesthetic  Dancing  and  Efficiency  are  held  in  the 
upper  rooms.  The  annual  dues  are  $9.00  for  men  ancl  $5.00  for  women; 
limited  membership,  exclusive  of  gymnasium,  $2.00.  Separate  fees 
are   charged  for  each  course. 

During  his  forty  years'  ministry  Mr.  Beecher  changed  his 
residence  several  times.  He  lived  successively  at  126,  82,  and 
124  Columbia  Heights.  Then  he  moved  to  124  Hicks,  corner 
of  Clark  St.,  where  he  died.  The  house  has  since  made  way 
for  a  modern  apartment  building. 

Continuing  south  on  Columbia  Heights,   past  Pineapple 


410  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

St.,  welcome  to  Clark  St.  Turning  east,  we  pass  the 
St.  George  Hotel,  between  Hicks  and  Henry  Sts.  At  the 
s.  w.  corner  of  Clark  and  Henry  is  the  First  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church  of  Brooklyn,  or  Sands  Street  Memorial 
Church.  An  inscription  in  the  vestibule  records  the  fact  that 
the  first  Sands  Street  Church  was  erected  in  1794,  rebuilt  in 
181 1  and  again  in  1843,  destroyed  by  fire  and  rebuilt  in  1848, 
and  the  present  edifice  erected  on  this  site  in  1889.  The 
present  pastor  is  the  Rev.  Ira  D.  Henderson.  In  the  next 
block,  facing  Monroe  Place,  is  No.  97  Clark  St.,  the  home 
of  the  late  novelist,  Paul  Leicester  Ford. 

South  of  Clark  St.,  on  the  west  side  of  Henry  St.,  is  the 
First  Presbyterian  Church,  long  established  and  fashionable. 

South  of  Clark  St.,  on  the  east  side  of  Hicks  St.,  we 
see  the  Mansion  House,  a  comfortable  family  hotel,  with  what 
looks  oddly  like  a  greenhouse  in  the  centre  between  its  two 
win^s.  In  1829  the  Brooklxn  Collegiate  Institute  for  Young 
Ladies  was  incorporated,  and  a  substantial  building  erected; 
but  the  enterprise  spent  itself  in  this  effort,  and  it  was  not 
until  1845  that  another  attempt  was  made  which  eventually 
developed  into  the  Packer  Institute  (see  p.  414)  and  the 
Polytechnic  (see  p.  404).  The  original  building,  however, 
survives  in  the  Mansion  House.  Just  south  of  this  point,  and 
running  from  Henry  to  Hicks  St.,  is  a  short,  narrow  alley. 
Love  Lane,  It  marks  the  spot  where  the  De  Bevoise  brothers, 
two  old  bachelors,  formerly  owned  a  strip  of  land  adjoining 
the  Pierrepont  property,  and  where  they  grew  the  first  culti- 
vated strawberries  ever  sold  in  the  New  York  markets.  With 
them  lived  a  ward,  Sarah  De  Bevoise,  whose  beauty  won  her 
a  host  of  devoted  admirers.  The  lane  is  said  to  have  received 
its  name  from  the  many  love-lines  scribbled  or  carved  on  its 
wooden  fences. 

Columbia  Heights  ends  at  Pierrepont  St.,  one  square 
south  of  Clark. 

Half-way  down  the  block  we  pass  the  Standish  Arms,  an 
eleven-story  apartment  hotel,  whose  upper  windows  command 
a  wide  view  of  New  York  and  the  Harbor.  No.  198  is  the 
residence  of  A.  Augustus  Healy,  President  of  the  Brooklyn 
Institute  (see  p.  424).  No.  201,  at  the  corner  of  Pierrepont 
Street,  was  formerly  the  home  of  Seth  Low,  when  mayor  of 
Brooklyn.  His  sister,  Mrs.  H.  E.  Pierrepont,  lives  at  No. 
216.  This  short  block,  continued  in  Montague  Terrace,  con- 
tains by  far  the  handsomest  residences  on  the  Heights. 
The  visitor  should  walk  to  the  prolongation  of  Montague 
Street,  forming  a  high  bastion  or  look-out,  supported  by 
massive  arched   masonry,    (Minart  Le fever,  architect),   be- 


BROOKLYN  HEIGHTS  411 

neath  which  the  trolley  line  descends  to  the  docks.  A  fine 
viev^s  is  afforded  of  the  gardens  in  the  rear  of  the  houses 
above  the  bluff,  and  of  the  warehouses  at  the  base  along  Fur- 
man  St. 

Proceeding  along  Montague  east  to  Hicks,  we  reach  the 
Hotel  Bossertf  the  largest  and  most  modern  of  Brooklyn 
hotels,  and  extending  along  Hicks  all  the  way  to  Remsen. 

Turning  east  on  Remsen  St.  to  Henry,  we  reach  (N.  E. 
corner)  the  Congregational  Church  of  the  Pilgrims,  organized 
in  1844.  Two  years  later,  the  Rev.  Richard  Salter  Storrs  was 
called,  and  remained  pastor  of  the  church  until  his  death 
in  1900.  Dr.  Storrs  was  one  of  the  half  dozen  most  noted 
clergymen  in  the  city  and  was  often  called  the  "Chrysostom 
of  Brooklyn." 

The  church  contains  some  good  memorial  windows,  notably  the  large 
window  over  the  entrance  representing  the  Ascension  (best  seen  in  the 
afternoon),  in  memory  of  Dr.  Storrs  and  his  wife;  and  the  lirst  window 
on  the  right  aisle,  in  memory  of  James  S.  T.  Stranahan,  chief  founder  * 
of  Prospect  Park  (see  p.  422).  Note  on  Henry  st.  facade  a  small 
projecting  block  of  stone  obviously  unlike  the  rest  in  texture.  It  is 
a  piece  of  Plymouth  Rock,  the  landing  place  of  the  original  "Pilgrims." 

Retracing  our  steps  and  continuing  south  on  Hicks  Street, 
we  come  next  to  Grace  Church,  one  of  Brooklyn's  most 
fashionable  episcopal  churches.  It  stands  on  the  S.  W. 
corner  of  Grace  Court,  with  its  rear  facade  on  Hicks  Street 
and  its  front  entrance  reached  through  a  side  gate  on  the 
Court.  It  is  an  outgrowth  of  an  earlier  organization,  Emman- 
uel Church,  on  Sidney  Place,  incorporated  in  1841,  which 
showed  such  rapid  growth  that  a  larger  and  more  costly 
church  was  planned.  Accordingly  in  1847  Grace  Church  was 
organized  and  the  corner-stone  of  the  present  edifice  was  laid. 
It  is  of  the  late  middle  pointed  order,  and  contains  some  fine 
modern  memorial  windows.  Both  Grace  Church  and  the 
Church  of  the  Pilgrims  were  designed  by  Richard  Upjohn, 
architect   of   Trinity   Church,    New   York. 

The  church  is  open  daily  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Behind  the  altar 
IS  a  large,  richly  colored  window  in  four  panels,  representing  St.  Peter, 
King  David,  St.  Stephen  and  St.  Augustine.  On  the  left  or  Grace  Court 
wde:  (i)  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  (2)  Christ  in  the  Temple;  (3) 
The  Feast  at  Cana;  (4)  The  Sermon  on  the  Mount;  (s)  The  Ascension. 
On  the  right:  (i)  Faith,  Hope  and  Charity;  (2)  The  Women  at  the 
Sepulchre;  (3)  The  Madonna  and  Child;  (4)  Christ  with  Martha  and 
Mary;  (5)  "Suffer  Little  Children  to  come  unto  Me."  These  windows, 
all  memorials  to  former  members  of  the  church,  are  among  the  finest 
m  Brooklyn.  A  few  are  from  England,  the  others  from  the  Tiffany  and 
Lamb  studios. 

Grace  Court  is  a  quiet  and  attractive  little  street,  with 
dwellings  on  the  southern  side  only,  the  opposite  side  being 


412  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

occupied  by  the  well  kept  gardens  belonging  to  the  houses 
on  Remsen  Street.  No.  2  Grace  Court  was  once  the  home  of 
Mrs.  Harriet  L.  Packer,  founder  of  Packer  Institute  (see 
p.  414). 

Joralemon  Street,  the  next  to  the  south,  and  the  first 
street  to  form  a  break  in  the  western  front  of  the  Heights 
and  to  slope  to  the  water  level,  was  formerly  Joralemon  Lane 
and  formed  the  boundary  line  between  the  Pierrepont  and 
Joralemon  estates,  and  in  a  restricted  sense  the  southern 
limits  of  the  Heights.  The  term  however  has  been  extended 
by  custom,  and  residents  of  the  adjacent  streets  for  several 
blocks  further  south  consider  themselves  included  in  the 
favored  district. 

At  Atlantic  Avenue,  the  next  street  south,  the  character 
of  the  neighborhood  suddenly  changes  and  we  find  ourselves 
in  the  centre  of  a  small  but  crowded  nucleus  of  a  Syrian 
colony  that  has  lately  drifted  across  from  the  earlier  settle- 
ment in  Greenwich  Street.  This  is  left  behind  when  at 
Pacific  Street  we  turn  east  to  Henry,  reaching  the  Hoagland 
Laboratory  and  the  Long  Island  College  Hospital.  The 
Hoagland  Laboratory,  founded  in  1887  by  Cornelius  Nevius 
Hoagland,  is,  as  the  bronze  memorial  on  the  Henry  Street 
facade  records,  the  "first  laboratory  in  the  United  States 
erected,  equipped  and  endowed  by  private  means  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  bacteriology."  The  original  cost  of  the  laboratory 
was  over  $100,000,  to  which  Dr.  Hoagland  added  a  further 
sum  of  $50,000  as  a  perpetual  endowment  fund. 

Cornelius  Nevius  Hoagland  (1828-97),  though  a  native  of  New 
Jersey,  was  taken  to  Ohio  at  the  age  of  nine,  there  studied  medicine 
and  practiced  for  two  years.  When  the  Civil  War  broke  out  he  offered 
his  services  and  served  as  surgeon  throughout  the  war  with  the  71st 
Ohio  Regiment.  After  the  war  he  developed  unexpected  business 
ability,  although  he  never  lost  his  interest  in  the  sciences,  and  was  a 
member  of  many  learned  societies  both  here  and  abroad.  In  1889  he 
became  president  of  the  Cleveland  Baking  Powder  Company.  He  was 
a  resident  of  Brooklyn  from  1868  until  his  death  in  1897. 

The  main  wards  of  the  Long  Island  College  Hospital- 
(1857-1905),  occupy  the  entire  western  side  of  Henry  Street 
from  Pacific  to  Amity,  the  north  wing  being  the  Arbuckle 
Memorial,  while  the  central  and  southern  portions  are  the 
Henry  W.  Maxwell  Memorial.  Opposite,  on  the  S.  W.  comer 
of  Henry  and  Amity  Streets,  is  the  Polhemus  Dispensary 
and  Memorial  Clinic,  which  contains  also  the  offices  and 
lecture  rooms  of  the  College  Hospital  Medical  School.  The 
Dudley  Memorial,  on  the  S.  E.  corner,  completes  the  group. 

At  the  next  corner  we  turn  east  on  Congress  Street  to 
Clinton.    On  the  S.  E.  corner  is  the  Second  Unitarian  Church 


BROOKLYN  HEIGHTS  413 

(founded  1851).  The  present  structure,  dating  from  1857  is 
cruciform  in  shape,  in  the  Anglo-Italian  style  and  has  a 
seating  capacity  of  about  600.  It  is  interesting  chiefly  for  the 
fact  that  the  Rev.  Samuel  Longfellow,  a  brother  of  Henry 
W.  Longfellow  and  himself  a  poet  of  some  merit,  was  pastor 
of  this  church  from  1853  to  i860. 

One  block  further  east,  at  the  corner  of  Congress  and 
Court  Sts.,  stands  the  old  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  5"^ 
Paul's,  a  substantial  red  brick  building,  125  feet  long  by  72 
wide,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $20,000.  The  land  was  given  by 
Cornelius  Heeney,  who  is  buried  at  the  rear  of  the  church. 
His  monument  may  be  seen  through  the  fence  on  the  Con- 
gress St.  side. 

Cornelius  Heeney,  of  Queen's  County,  Ireland,  came  to  America 
when  27  years  of  age.  He  obtained  employment  with  a  New  York 
merchant,  Mr.  Backhouse,  where  he  met  John  Jacob  Astor,  then  a 
porter.  Some  time  later  Backhouse  sold  out  to  Heeney  and  Astor 
who  went  into  partnership,  but  disagreed  and  separated  a  year  later. 
Mr.  Heeney,  although  a  bachelor,  was  devoted  to  children  and  his 
home  was  constantly  filled  with  orphan  girls  and  boys.  To  the  Brooklyn 
R.  C.  Orphan  Asylum  he  gave  $18,000;  he  was  one  of  the  founders 
of  the  R.  C.  Half-Orphan  Asylum  in  New  York  City:  and  he  left 
numerous  other  generous  endowments.  A  good  deal  of  the  land  on 
the  adjoining  streets  is  still  held  in  trust  for  these  benevolent  pur- 
poses, the  residents  owning  their  houses  but  continuing  to  pay  ground 
rent. 

Returning  north  by  way  of  Clinton  Street  (six  blocks) 
we  reach,  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of  Livingston  Street,  St.  Ann's 
Church,  the  oldest  Protestant  Episcopal  church  in  Brooklyn. 

As  early  as  1784  the  Rev.  jGeorge  Wright  began  to  hold  services  in 
a  house  on  Fulton  Street  belonging  to  Garret  Rapelje,  then  in,  a  barn 
owned  by  John  Middagh  in  the  rear  of  his  house  at  the  corner  of 
Fulton  and  Henry  streets,  then  in  an  old  British  barracks  at  the  comer 
of  Fulton  and  Middagh.  At  last,  on  the  23d  of  April,  1787,  the  Epis- 
copal Church  of  Brooklyn  was  incorporated.  ^  Ei^ht  years  later  it  was 
reorganized  as  St.  Ann's  Church,  "a  title  which  it  had  tacitly  received 
some  years  earlier  in  compliment  to  Mrs.  Ann  Sands,  who  with  her 
husband,  Joshua  Sands,  had  been  its  most  liberal  donor."  The  earlier 
church  stood  on  the  old  Episcopal  burial  ground,  Fulton  Street,  opposite 
Clinton.  The  corner-stone  for  the  present  church  was  laid  in  1867, 
but  the  cost  of  the  ambitious  structure  was  so  heavy  that  the  debt  was 
not  cleared  until  1880,  when  one  of  the  parishoners,  R.  Fulton  Cutting, 
raised  his  subscription  from  $10,000  to  $70,000,  on  condition  that  the 
balance  should  be  at  once  collected  and  all  seats  be  made  permanently 
free. 

The  present  edifice  is  a  handsome  specimen  of  middle 
pointed  Gothic,  built  of  Belleville  and  Cleveland  stone,  its 
dimensions  being  126  feet  in  length  by  75  in  width,  with  a 
height  from  floor  to  roof  of  90  feet.  The  seating  capacity  is 
2400.  The  memorial  windows  merit  a  visit.  The  doors  are 
open  daily  from  9  to  5.  In  the  vestibule  are  two  memorial 
tablets,  one  to  the  church's  most  distinguished  pastor,  the 
Rev.  Charles  Pettit  Mcllvaine  (1827-33),  previously  Professor 


414  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

of  Moral  Philosophy  and  Chaplain  at  the  United  States 
Military  Academy  at  West  Point  and  later  Bishop  of  Ohio; 
and  secondly  to  the  Rev.  Benjamin  Qarke  Cutler,  whose  thirty 
year  pastorate  ( 1853-63)  was  the  longest  in  the  church's  history. 

Diagonally  opposite,  at  No.  133  Clinton  Street,  in  an  un- 
pretentious dwelling  house,  is  one  of  Brooklyn's  leading  cluhs, 
the  Excelsior  Club, 

One  block  north,  to  the  right  on  Joralemon  Street  (No. 
170)  stands  the  venerable  gothic  structure  of  Packer  Institute, 
the  last  architectural  work  designed  by  Minart  Le fever  (see 
p.  415).  Packer  Institute  is  an  outgrowth  of  the  Brooklyn 
Female  Academy,  founded  in  1845,  which  prospered  and  in 
1852  had  over  600  pupils.  The  following  year  it  wa.i  burned 
down.  Mrs.  Harriet  L.  Packer  seized  the  opportunity  offered 
to  found  the  Packer  Institute,  in  memory  of  her  late  husband, 
donating  $65,000  for  the  purpose.  In  1886  an  addition  was 
built  to  the  east,  28  ft.  by  100  deep,  containing  a  gymnasium 
on  the  ground  floor.  In  1907  Alumnae  Hall  was  erected  on 
the  west  side,  in  a  style  harmonious  with  the  original  gothic 
design,  and  with  the  college  seal  and  motto  "Macte  Virtute" 
carved  on  the  facade.  The  Packer  Collegiate  Institute  now 
includes  Primary,  Preparatory,  Academic  and  Collegiate  De- 
partments.    The  library  has  over  8000  volumes. 

At  the  junction  of  Qinton  and  Remsen  we  have  on  the 
right  the  Spencer  Memorial  Presbyterian  Church,  and  on  the 
left  the  Hamilton  Club,  organized  m  1880-  It  is  an  out- 
growth of  an  older  organization;  the  Hamilton  Literary 
Association  of  Brooklyn,  dating  from  1830.  Ninety-two  mem- 
bers of  this  older  body  constituted  themselves  into  the  modern 
club,  which  was  incorporated  in  1882.  The  present  club 
house  standing  at  the  corner  of  Clinton  and  Remsen  Streets, 
is  a  tall,  dignified  structure  of  brick  and  red  sandstone,  and 
cost  $100,000.  In  front  of  the  entrance  is  a  ♦Bronze  Statue 
of  Alexander  Hamilton,  by  William  Ordway  Partridge.  The 
club  contains  a  good  art  gallery,  including  The  Republican 
Court,  by  Huntington,  purchased  from  the  A.  T.  Stewart 
collection. 

Remsen  Street  is  a  favorite  centre  of  club  life.  To  the 
east  of  Clinton,  at  No.  170,  is  the  Church  Club  of  the  Diocese 
of  Long  Island;  to  the  west  are  the  former  home  of  the 
Brooklyn  Barnard  Qub  (recently  disbanded)  at  No.  132,  the 
Brooklyn  Civic  Club  at  No.  127  (formed  in  1915  by  the  con- 
solidatin  of  ";he  Brooklyn  League  and  the  City  (31ub),  and 
the  Brooklyn  Engineers'  Club  at  No.  117.  The  Brooklyn 
Club,  long  at  the  cor.  of  Pierrepont  and  Clinton  Sts.,*  has 
recently  moved  to  131  Remsen. 


BROOKLYN  HEIGHTS  4i5 

The  next  block  on  Qinton  Street  is  given  over  to  busi- 
ness. We  pass  on  our  right  the  eleven  story,  light  brick 
structure  of  the  Brooklyn  Rapid  Transit  Company,  the  Brook- 
lyn City  Railway  Company,  at  the  corner  of  Montague  Street, 
.  opposite  which,  on  our  left  is  the  ornate  nine-story  building 
of  the  Franklin  Trust  Company.  On  the  northern  side  of 
Montague  Street,  at  the  left-hand  corner  of  Clinton,  stands 
*Holy  Trinity,  the  leading  Protestant,  Episcopal  church  of 
Brooklyn.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest  examples  of  the  Gothic 
revival  in  America,  the  chapel  dating  from  1846,  and  the 
church  from  1847.  Its  style  is  decorated  English,  with  flam- 
boyant traceries.  The  material  is  red  sandstone.  The  entire 
cost  of  the  church,  nearly  $175,0000,  was  donated  by  Edgar 
J.  Bartow  (1809-64),  a  wealthy  paper  manufactured.  It  was 
built  from  designs  by  Minart  Lefever.  A  few  years  ago  it 
became  necessary  to  remove  the  tall  spire  of  the  steeple. 

Minart  Lefever  (1797-1854)  was  an  architect  of  distinction  in  his 
generation,  and  no  less  than  fort^  churches,  many  of  them  in  Brooklyn, 
stand  as  monuments  to  his  ability.  In  addition  to  Holy  Trinity^  he 
designed  the  Strong  Place  Baptist  Church,  the  Church  of^  the  Saviour, 
the  Church  on  the  Heights,  and  Packer  Institute,  his  last  work.  He 
is  buried  in  Cypress  Hills  Cemetery. 

The  dimensions  of  Holy  Trinity  are:  length  145  feet; 
with  chapel,  170  feet;  with  rectory,  195  feet;  width,  including 
buttresses,  80  feet.  The  entrance  doors  are  of  black  walnut 
with  deeply  sunk  panels,  highly  enriched  with  carvings.  The 
church  contains  some  *Stained'fflass  Windows  of  exceptional 
richness  of  color.  Note  especially  the  large  window  above 
the  reredos  behind  the  altar,  representing  The  Ascension,  the 
upper  segment  of  which  is  filled  with  symbols  representing 
the  Saviour.  The  windows  in  the  side  walls  of  the  chancel 
illustrate  the  Sacraments  of  Baptism  and  The  Lord's  Supper, 
The  windows  in  the  main  body  of  the  church  are  historical, 
those  in  the  clerestory  representing  historical  incidents  from 
the  Old  Testament;  those  of  the  aisles,  in  the  compartments 
above  the  galleries  dealing  with  events  in  the  life  of  Christ, 
while  those  below  are  illustrative  of  His  genealogy.  These 
windows  were  designed  by  William  Jay  Bolton,  of  Bolton 
Priory,  Pelham.  In  the  vestibule  are  several  memorial  tab- 
lets: on  the  right-hand  wall,  "In  memory  of  William  Henry 
Lewis,  D.D.,  first  rector  of  this  church,  died  October  nth, 
1877."  Immediately  to  the  left,  a  bronze  memorial  portrait  in 
low  relief  of  Dudley  Buck,  "American  composer,  for  25  years 
organist  of  this  church  (1839-1909)."  On  left  wall:  "In mem- 
ory of  Edgar  John  Bartow  and  his  wife  Harriet  Constable 
Bartow,  1871."    The  church  i«  open  daily  from  9  to  5. 

To  the  east,  on  Montague  Street  (No.  199)  the  ornamental 


4i6  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Gothic  front  of  the  Brooklyn  Library  is  a  conspicuous 
feature.  It  was  built  in  1868  at  the  cost  of  $227,000  and  was 
considered  at  the  time  one  of  the  handsomest  buildings  in  the 
city.  It  is  now  the  Central  Branch  of  the  Brooklyn  Public 
Library  System. 

Continuing  on  Clinton  Street  to  Pierrepont,  we  reach  the 
Long  Island  Historical  Society,  incorporated  in  1863,  with 
the  avowed  purpose  of  discovering  and  preserving  "whatever 
may  relate  to  general  history,  .  .  .  and  more  particularly 
to  that  of  the  counties,  cities,  towns  and  villages  of  Long 
Island."  The  present  edifice  was  opened  to  the  public  in 
January,  1881.  On  the  ground  floor  is  an  auditorium  with  a 
seating  capacity  of  800.  The  reading  room  of  the  library  is 
on  the  second  floor  and  is  intended  for  the  use  of  members 
only  (annual  dues,  $5.00).  A  card,  however,  available  for 
a  week,  will  be  issued  by  the  Public  Library,  on  application 
at  the  Montague  Street  Branch.  The  Historical  Society 
Library  has  a  small  but  interesting  collection  of  pictures  and 
curios,  mostly  of  local  interest,  and  the  attendants  obligingly 
show  them.  The  library  contains  some  rare  books,  among 
others  the  original  edition  of  Audubon's  Birds  of  America, 
and  the  Cabinet  du  Roy,  in  49  volumes.  The  Society's  first 
librarian  was  Dr.  Henry  R.  Stiles,  author  of  the  standard 
"History  of  Brooklyn." 

Directly  opposite,  on  the  northwest  corner  of  Clinton  and 
Pierrepont  Streets  is  the  new  home  of  the  Crescent  Athletic 
Club.  The  earlier  building,  a  much  more  modest  structure, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  Clinton  Street,  half  way  down  the 
block,  has  been  converted  into  an  apartment  hotel,  but  pre- 
served a  reminder  of  its  origin  iq  its  name,  The  Crescent. 

One  block  to  the  west,  on  Pierrepont  Street,  brings  us  to 
the  Unitarian  Church  of  the  Saviour,  on  the  corner  of  Mon- 
roe Place.  This,  the  first  Unitarian  church  of  Brooklyn,  was 
organized  in  1833 ;  but  the  present  structure,  of  brown  stone, 
in  middle  pointed  Gothic,  dates  from  1844.  It  was  designed 
by  Minart  Lefever,  the  architect  of  Holy  Trinity.  Just 
beyond  Monroe  Place,  on  Pierrepont  Street  stands  another 
of  the  many  churches  due  to  Lefever,  the  Church  on  the 
Heights,  or  Second  Reformed  Church,  organized  in  1837.  An 
earlier  edifice,  built  in  1839,  still  stands  on  Henry  Street,  near 
Clark,  and  is  occupied  by  the  Zion  German  Lutheran  Congre- 
gation. The  present  structure  on  Pierrepont  Street  dates 
from  1850,  having  been  begun  soon  after  the  installation  of  the 
Rev.  Dr.  George  W.  Bethune,  one  of  the  most  eloquent  of 
the  old-time  clergymen  of  Brooklyn,  during  whose  brief 
pastorate  this  church  enjoyed  a  period  of  great  prosperity. 


BOROUGH  HALL  TO  PROSPECT  PARK        417 

The  church  is  in  the  Roman-Corinthian  order  of  architecture, 
with  a  portico  supported  by  Corinthian  columns;  its  depth  is 
100  ft.  with  a  frontage  of  70. 

IV.     From  Borough  Hall  to  Prospect  Park 
a.    From  Borough  Hall  to  the  Plaza 

From  Borough  Hall  eastward,  along  Fulton  St.,  and  Livingston  St. 
running  parallel  to  it  on  the  S.,  is  Brooklyn's  chief  shopping  and 
theatre  centre.  In  general  character  it  compares  not  unfavorably  with 
the  lower  6th  Ave.  shopping  district  before  the  general  exodus  uptown 
began;  and  a  good  many  New  York  women  have  learned  that  they 
can  often  make  better  bargains  by  taking  the  subway  across  to  one 
or  another  of  Brooklyn's  big  department  stores.  In  the  main,  how- 
ever, Fulton  St.  is  a  replica  on  reduced  scale  of  a  New  York  street; 
the  shops  are  largely  branches  of  New  York  houses;  we  come  across 
the  Beck,  Hanover  and  Regal  Shoe  Shops,  confectionery  such  as  Huy- 
ler  and  Schrafft,  Riker  Drug  Stores,  Acker  Merrall  &  Condit,  grocers, 
etc. 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Borough  Hall  Park,  the  meeting- 
point  of  Joralemon  St.  and  Court  Sq.,  Fulton  St.  bends  to 
the  L.,  continuing  almost  due  E.  Willoughby  St.  forks  to  the 
N.  E.,  forming  practically  a  continuation  of  Joralemon.  In 
the  distance  on  Willoughby  St.  rises  the  Martyrs'  Monument 
(P-  437)-  On  Fulton  St.,  beyond  Court  Sq.,  are  the  Kings 
County  Trust  Company  and  the  National  City  Bank.  Here 
Red  Hook  Lane  branches  off  to  the  R.,  ending  at  Livingston 
St.  It  is  all  that  survives  of  the  old  lane  which  formerly  led 
in  a  zigzag  course  to  Red  Hook,  a  district  of  South  Brook- 
lyn bordering  on  the  Erie  Basin. 

Pearl  St.  here  branches  to  the  L.  At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of 
Pearl  and  Willoughby  Sts.  is  Loew's  Royal  Theatre.  Con- 
tinuing on  Fulton,  we  reach  Jay  St.  (L.),  N.  on  which  is  the 
Star  Theatre,  and  a  block  beyond,  the  tall  structure  of  the 
Fire  Headquarters.  To  the  R.  on  Fulton,  Smith  St.  branches 
to  the  S.,  with  the  Bijou  Theatre  at  the  corner  of  Livingston. 

Six  blocks  S.,  at  No.  125  Dean  st,  stands  the  former 
home  of  Estelle  Anne  Lewis  (1824-80),  a  poet  of  some  dis- 
tinction in  her  day,  whom  Edgar  Allan  Poe  once  called  "the 
Rival  of  Sappho." 

Mrs.  Lewis  for  several  years  held  a  sort  of  salon  in  the  parlors 
of  this  house.  Favorite  visitors  included  Washington  Irving,  Fenimore 
Cooper,  Nathaniel  P.  Willis,  and  William  Cullen  Bryant,  who  here 
recited  his  "Thanatopsis."  This  is  also  one  of  the  houses  where  it 
is  claimed  that  Poe  read  "The  Raven"  for  the  first  time.  She  was 
popularly  known  as  "Stella,"  because  of  her  genius  and  beauty.  After 
her  divorce,  she  went  to  Europe.  Lamartine,  whom  she  met  in  Paris, 
named  her  "the  female  Petrarch."     She  died  in  London. 


4i8  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  next  four  blocks  of  Fulton  St.  on  the  R.  are  occupied 

almost  wholly  by  large  department  stores,  excepting  a  few 

small  shops.     From   Smith   St.  to  Gallatin  PI.   is  Matthews* 

(recently  closed).    From  Gallatin.  PI.  to  Hoyt  St.  is  Abraham 

and  Straus,  the  largest  of  the  stores  (restaurant  on  6th  floor, 

with  model  kitchen,   inspection  of  which  is  invited  during 

morning  hours). 

It  was  in  front  of  this  store,  between  DuiEeld  and  Lawrence  Sts. 
that  the  old  First  Church  (p.  421)  stood.  The  department  store  occu- 
pies in  part  the  old  graveyard.  According  to  tradition,  the  church 
was  built  upon  the  ruined  walls  of  an  old  fortress,  built  as.  a  protection 
against  Indians. 

Duffield  St.,  branching  off  to  the  N.,  takes  its  name  from 
the  estate  of  the  Duffields,  one  of  the  oldest  Brookljm  fam- 
ilies. Just  a  few  doors  from  Fulton  St.  is  the  Duffield  Thea- 
tre, a  high  class  photo-play  house. 

The  last  representative  of  her  line,  an  elderly  lady,  stubbornly  re- 
sisted the  proposal  to  cut  a  street  through  her  property.  But  at  last 
advantage  was  taken  of  her  brief  absence  from  home,  and  the  street  was 
run  through,  cutting  off  part  of  the  kitchen  of  the  historic  old  home- 
stead, not  far  from  where  the  theatre  now  stands. 

S.  on  Elm  pi.  is  the  Grand  Theater.  From  Elm  pi.  to 
Bond  St.  is  Loeser's,  a  high-class  department  store.  Opposite, 
where  De  Kalb  ave.  branches  off  to  the  N.  E.,  stands  the 
two-story,  Ionic  structure  of  the  Dime  Savings  Bank,  Two 
blocks  N.,  on  Fleet  st.,  we  glimpse  the  white,'  triangular  struc- 
ture of  the  Department  of  Health  Building.  The  next  street 
E.  (on  R.)  is  Hanson  pi.  S.,  cor  of  Livingston  st,  is  the 
Montauk  Theatre,  and  on  Livingston,  facing  the  end  of 
Hanson  pi.,  is  Keeney's  Theatre  (see  mural  lunette  in  lobby, 
allegorical  design  by  Arnold  Brouner), 

At  Nevins  st.  (R.),  Flatbush  ave.,  running  S.  E.  from 
the  Manhattan  Bridge,  intersects  Fulton  st.  slantingly.  At 
the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Nevins  st.  stands  the  Smith-Gray  Building, 
with  a  lofty  campanile  that  may  be  seen  for  miles,  and  has 
often  helped  strangers  to  locate  themselves.  On  the  Fulton 
St.  fagade  of  the  Smith-Gray  Building  is  a  memorial  tablet: 

"Line  of  Defense,  Battle  of  Long  Island,  August  27,  1776,  from 
the  Wallabout  to  the  Gowanus.  Erected  by  the  Sons  of  the  Revolution 
in  the  State  of  New  York." 

Two  blocks  S.  on  Nevins  st.,  S.  W.  cor  of  Schermerhorn 

St.,  is  the  recently  erected  Harriet  Judson  Branch  of  the 

Y.  W.  C.  A.,  intended  as  an  up-to-date  lodging  house  for 

young  working  women  (1912). 

On  the  Nevins  st.  facade,  cor.  State  st.,  is  a  memorial  tablet: 
"1814-1914,  on  this  block,  midway  b-tween  Nevins  and  Bond  sts., 
stood    Fort    Masonic,    erected    September,    1814,    by    members    of    the 


BOROUGH  HALL  TO  PROSPECT  PARK   419 

Masonic  Fraternity,  as  part  of  the  defenses  of  New  York."  This  tablet 
was  erected  under  the  auspices  of  the  Temple  Club  of  the  Fourth 
Masonic  District  of  New  York. 

Continuing  S.  E.  on  Flatbush  ave.,  we  pass  at  the  junction 
with  Schermerhorn  St.,  the  Administrative  Building  of  the 
Young  Women's  Christian  Association.  Around  the  corner, 
No.  298  Schermerhorn  st.  was  once  the  home  of  Edward 
Eggleston;  here  he  wrote  "The  Hoosier  Schoolmaster.*' 

Further  on,  to  the  L.,  on  Ashland  pi.,  is  the  Brooklyn 
Academy  of  Music,  a  notable  example  of  polychromatic  brick 
architecture,  erected  in  1906,  from  designs  by  Herts  & 
Tallant.  The  dimensions  are  184  ft.  by  201  ft.,  and  the  cost 
was  $1,500,000.  In  addition  to  the  main  auditorium  it  con- 
tains a  Music  Hall  with  a  seating  capacity  of  1372. 

Diagonally  opposite,  4th  ave.  branches  off  to  the  S.  Here 
is  a  station  of  the  new  Fourth  Avenue  Subway  between  City 
Hall,  Manhattan  and  Coney  Island  (p.  32).  One  block  E., 
where  Atlantic  ave.  intersects  Flatbush  ave.  slantingly,  is  the 
Atlantic  Avenue  Station  of  the  Long  Island  Railroad,  To  the 
N.,  on  Hanson  PL,  is  the  new  Central  Branch  of  the  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association,  a  fourteen-story  structure  of 
white  marble  and  dull  red  brick,  containing  five  hundred  bed- 
rooms. It  is  said  to  be  the  largest  and  finest  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
building  in  the  world,  and  anyone  interested  in  the  work  of 
the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  should  give  it  an  inspection.  From  this 
point  E.,  Flatbush  ave.  offers  little  of  interest  until  we 
reach  the  Plaza. 

b.    Prospect  Park  Plaza 

One  short  block  beyond  Eighth  Avenue,  Flatbush  Avenue 
crosses  Plaza  Street,  which  stretches  right  and  left  in  an 
elliptical  curve,  forming  the  outer  boundary  of  Prospect 
Park  Plaza.  At  the  next  corner  to  the  right  on  Plaza  Street 
we  see  the  ornate  four-story  Montauk  Club  (1890),  a  roman- 
esque  stl-ucture  in  two  shades  of  pale  brick.  Surrounding 
the  upper  story  is  a  bas-relief  frieze  in  the  Greek  manner, 
representing  the  life  and  deeds  of  the  Montauk  Indians.  On 
the  left,  the  concave  fagade  of  the  mammoth  Riding  and 
Driving  Club,  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  country, 
occupies  the  entire  block  from  Flatbush  to  Vanderbilt  Ave. 

The  inner  side  of  Plaza  Street  is  bordered  by  a  grassy, 
tree-grown  embankment  of  irregular  height,  forming  a  huge 
horse-shoe  strip  of  park  extending  around  the  greater  part 
of  the  Plaza,  an  open,  paved  ellipse  about  800  feet  in  length 
and  temporarily  disfigured  by  an  ungainly  enclosure  where 
subway  excavations  are  in  progress.  '  Within  the  embankment. 


420  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Flatbush  and  Vanderbilt  Avenues  meet  at  an  angle;  and  the 
double  set  of  trolley  tracks  that  here  intersect  follow  the 
inner  curve  of  the  Plaza  and  continue,  the  one  on  the  eastern 
side  of  Prospect  Park,  to  Flatbush,  Flatlands  and  Bergen 
Beach,  the  other  along  Prospect  Park  West  to  Greenwood 
Cemetery.  Union  Street  leads  west  to  the  water  front 
and  the  Atlantic  Basin;  while  the  broad  stretch  of 
Ectstern  Parkway  curves  to  the  east  and  north  to  Cypress 
Hills  nearly  three  miles  away.  At  the  focus  of  these  diverg- 
ing avenues,  and  facing  the  main  entrance  to  Prospect  Park 
stands  the  **Soldiers:'  and  Sadlors*  Memorial  Arch,  a  monu- 
mental structure  of  granite,  eighty  feet  high  by  eigh^  in  width 
and  surmounted  by  a  *Quadriga  in  bronze,  by  Frederick 
MacMonnies,  and  two  symbolic  groups,  on  the  park  fagade, 
representing  The  Army  and  The  Navy,  also  by  MacMonnies. 

History.  The  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Memorial  Arch  was  the  out- 
growth of  a  suggestion  made  by  Seth  Low,  when  Mayor  of  Brooklyn,  in 
a  speech  at  Greenwood  on  Decoration  Day.  Mr.  J.  Q.  A.  Ward  was  later 
asked  to  prepare  plans,  but  his  design  called  for  so  large  an  expenditure 
that  it  was  abandoned  and  an  open  competition  invited,  the  winner 
being  John  H,  Duncan.  The  cornerstone  was  laid  in  1889  by  General 
Sherman,  and  the  arch  finished  and  dedicated  in  1892,  the  day  chosen 
being  that  of  the  Columbian  Celebration,  October  21.  $250,000  were 
voted  by  the  Legislature  towards  the  cost,  the  balance  being  raised  by 
private  subscription. 

The  material  of  the  arch  is  gray  Maine  granite,  resting  on  a  founda- 
tion of  dark  polished  Quincy  granite.  The  span  of  the  arch  is  thirty- 
seven  feet  in  width  by  forty-eight  in  height.  On  the  keystone  is  carved 
the  seal  of  the  United  States.  In  the  spandrels  on  the  northern  side  are 
the  coats  of  arms  of  the  State  and  City,  and  on  the  southern  q>andrela 
are  the  figures  of  Peace  and  Victory. 

The  bronze  quadriga  is  of  heroic  size,  with  a  female  charioteer  erect 
in  her  chariot,  holding  aloft  a  banner  and  an  unsheathed  sword.  To 
right  and  left  are  winged  figures  symbolic  of  Victory.  These  figures 
can  be  studied  to  best  advantage  from  the  roof  of  the  arch.  107  steps 
lead  from  the  Plaza  level  to  the  top.  Open  to  the  public,  week  days, 
from  I  to  5  p.  m. ;  Sundays  and  holidays,  from  9.30  a.'m.  to  5  p.  m. 
Set  into  the  inner  side  of  the  piers  supporting  the  arch  are  two  equestrian 
figures  of  bronze,  in  high  relief,  representing  respectively  Lincoln  and 
Grant,  the  joint  work  of  William  Rudolf  O'Donovan  and  Thonuu 
Eakins.  ^ 

Facing  the  arch  in  a  curving  line,  and  marking  the  entrance  to 
the  Park,  are  four  Doric  fluted  columns  of  granite,  resting  on  rectangu- 
lar  granite   bases  and   surmounted   by   bronze  globes,   each   bearing   an 

eagle,  with  wings  spread  and  curved  upwards  until  the  tips  nearly  meet 
(also  by  MacMonnies). 

Other  memorial  monuments  in  the  Plaza  are:  i.  that 
to  Alexander  J.  C.  Skene,  president,  dean,  and  gynecolog^ist 
of  Long  Island  City  Hospital  (1829-1900)  by  Massey  Rhind, 
erected  in  1905;  at  the  north  end  of  the  Plaza;  2.  the  bronze 
statue  of  Major  General  Gouverneur  Kemble  Warren  (1830- 
82),  by  Henrv  Bacrer,  presented  to  Brooklyn  in  1896  by  the 
G.  K.  Warren  Post  of  the  Dept.  of  N.  Y.  G.  A.  R.;  3.   a 


BOROUGH  HALL  TO  PROSPECT  PARK        421 

memorial  portrait  plaque,  bronze,  in  low  relief,  of  Henry  W. 
Maxwell  (1850-1902),  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  the  plaque 
being  set  in  the  face  of  a  large  granite  boulder.  The  last 
two  are  situated  respectively  at  the  western  and  eastern  ends 
of  the  horse-shoe  strip  of  park. 

c.    Side  Excursion  to  Prospect  Park  West 

This  district  contains  some  of  the  most  costly  residences  in 
Brooklyn;  but  it  has  neither  thc^  social  traditions  of  the  Heights,  nor 
the  spacious  lawns,  with  fine  trees  and  shrubbery,  that  form  the  chief 
attraction  of  the  section  adjacent  to  New  York  and  St.  Mark's  Avenues. 
The  more  ornate  and  pretentious  dwellings,  suggesting  adaptations  of 
French  chateaux  and  Italian  villas,  arc  to  be  found  along  Prospect 
Park   West   (9th  Ave.)    and  also  on   8th  Ave.,  one  block  W. 

From  Flatbush  ave.  turn  S.  on  6th  ave.,  reaching  at  Ster- 
ling pi.  the  R.  C.  Church  of  St.  Augustine,  occupying  with 
the  Parochial  Residence  and  Catholic  High  School  an  entire 
city  square.  It  has  been  claimed  that  this  is  the  most  costly 
ecclesiastic  structure  in  Brooklyn. 

The  interior  is  rich  and  impressive.  Note  especially  the  handsome 
Sanctuary  Lamp,  made  by  Tiffany.  The  tabernacle,  encrusted  with 
costly  jewels  is  guarded  by  a  specially  constructed   safe. 

Two  blocks  further  S.,  we  pass  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of 
Lincoln  pi.  the  Sixth  Avenue  Baptist  Church,  an  unattractive 
red-brick  structure;  and  three  blocks  further  S.,  at  the  N.  E. 
cor.  of  CatrroU  st.,  the  R.  C.  Church  of  St.  Francis  Xavier, 
with  Rectory  and  Parochial  School.  It  is  a  granite  structure, 
designed  on  the  order  of  early  French  Gothic.  The  interior 
merits  a  visit.  Turning  E.  on  Carroll  St.,  we  reach  at  the 
N.W.  cor.  of  7th  ave.  (one  block  E.)  the  "Old  First"  Dutch 
Reformed  Church,  one  of  the  handsomest  churches  in 
Brooklyn. 

This  church  dates  back  to  1660,  the  congregation  holding  services 
in  a  barn;  the^  first  edifice,  completed  in  1666  and  rebuilt  in  1766,  was 
situated  in  the  middle  of  what  is  now  Fulton  St.,  near  Lawrence  St., 
according  to  tradition  on  the  foundations  of  an  old  fort.  It  is  de> 
scribed  by  early  historians  as  "an  ancient  landmark,  placidly  obstructing 
Jhe  tide  of  travel  on  the  Jamaica  and  Flatbush  Road.*'  The  old  church 
was  removed  in  1807;  and  a  new  one  erected  on  Joralemon  St.  (then 
Lane),  behind  Borough  Hall.  The  present  edifice  dates  from  1891. 
Its  architectural  order  is  a  simple  English  Gothic,  with  a  single  grace- 
ful spire  over  one  side  of  the  nave  in  front.  The  material  is  a*  fine* 
grained  granite,  as  white  and  smooth  of  finish  as  marble.  The  interior 
color  scheme  is  distinctly  pleasing.  Note  especially  the  large  mural 
painting  (14  by  21  ft.)  behind  the  pulpit,  representing  The  Angels  and 
Women  at  the  Empty  Tomb   iVergelio  Tojetti,  artist). 

South  on  7th  ave.,  extending  from  4th  to  5th  st.,  is  the 
Manual  Training  High  School;  diagonally  opposite,  at  6th 
St.,  the  squat,  brown  stone  structure  of  the  Greenwood  Baptist 
Church;  and  facing  it,   from  6th  to  7th  St.,  the  extensive 


422  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

grounds  and  buildings  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Hospital 
(incorp.  1881),  including  a  Training  School  for  Nurses. 
Capacity,  225  beds. 

The  visitor  may  prolong  his  ramble  southward  as  far  as  he  pleases 
but  will  find  the  constant  recurrence  of  mediocre  churches  rather 
monotonous.  On  the  return  trip,  he  should  walk  £.  to  the  park  a.iid  N. 
to  the  Plaza. 

On  President  st.,  one  block  S.  of  the  Plaza,  No.  916,  betw. 
Prospect  Park  West  and  8th  ave.,  is  the  home  of  the  once 
"popular"  novelist,  Laura  Jean  Libbey. 

V.    Prospect  Park 

**Prospect  Park  (PL  XII— B4),  next  to  Central  Park 
the  most  picturesque  of  all  the  parks  of  Greater  New  York, 
occupies  526  acres  of  rolling  highland  stretching  southward 
towards  Coney  Island  and  commanding  at  many  points  fine 
views  of  Brooklyn  and  New  York  harbor  on  the  one  hand, 
and  of  Long  Island  and  the  Atlantic  coast  on  the  other.  Park 
carriages  make  the  circuit  of  the  principal  points  of  interest 
(25  c.  each).  A  good  pedestrian,  however,  may  cover  the 
same  ground,  and  to  even  better  advantage,  on  foot  in  about 
an  hour  and  a  half. 

History:  Just  at  the  opening  of  the  Civil  War,  on  April  17,  i860, 
the  Legislature  passed  an  act  authorizing  the  creation  of  Prospect  Park. 
Mr.  James  S.  T.  Stranahan  was  chosen  President  of  the  Board  of 
Commissioners,  a  position  which  he  held  until  1882.  They  at  once 
retained  Lieut,  (later  General)  Egbert  L.  Viele  as  engineer,  associated 
with  Olmsted  and  Vaux,  landscape  architects,  to  do  for  Prospect  Park  \ 
what  he  had  lately  done  for  Central  Park.  Owing  to  the  hard  times 
resultinj^  from  the  war,  the  work  of  laying  out  the  Park,  and  the 
acquisition  of  a  considerable  part  of  the  land,  had  to  be  deferred 
until  the  close  of  the  war.  Consequently,  the  Park  was  not  opened  until 
1 87 1.  It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  the  shape  of  the  Park  was  deter- 
mined by  the  relative  cost  of  land  in  Brooklyn  and  in  Flatbush.  It 
was  found  to  be  more  economical  to  narrow  and  elongate  the  northern 
end  toward  the  city  and  spread  out  the  southern  portion  over  the 
cheaper  land  on  the  Flatbush  side. 

At  the  Plaza  entrance  there  are  a  central  driveway 
and  a  footpath  on  each  side.  Just  within  the  entrance,  to 
the  left  of  the  drive,  is  an  interesting  portrait  statue,  by  Mac- 
Monnies,  of  James  S.  T.  Stranahan,  "Brooklyn's  foremost 
citizen,"  who  did  more  than  anyone  else  towards  establish- 
ing and  beautifying  this  and  other  city  parks.  Keeping  to 
the  left  for  about  five  minutes,  we  reach  a  fork  in  the  path,  the 
left  branch  leading  to  steps  descending  to  the  Rose  Garden 
(a  narrow  rectangle  500  feet  long,  laid  out  in  formal  beds, 
with  three  marble  basins  for  aquatic  plants),  while  the  right, 
passing  through  a  wisteria  arbor,  commands  a  good  view,  far 
below,  of  the  Vale  of  Cashmere,  with  its  artificial  lagoon  and 


PROSPECT  PARK  423 

a  profusion  of  tropical  plants  which  in  the  springtime  blos- 
som in  a  riot  of  color.  Following  the  path  under  the  arbor 
we  reach  the  eastern  drive-way,  which  here  follows  the  line 
of  the  old  Flatbush  turnpike.  A  boulder  in  a  meadow  on  the 
east  of  the  drive,  a  few  hundred  feet  to  the  south  bears  a 
bronze  tablet,  marking  the  line  of  defence  at  Valley  Pass,  one 
of  the  critical  points  m  the  Battle  of  Long  Island,  August  27, 
1776.  To  reach  it,  the  visitor  must  follow  the  drive  or  cross 
the  meadow,  since  there  is  no  foot-path.  Retracing  our. 
steps,  we  cross  the  drive  and  almost  at  once  reach  the  Long 
Meadow,  stretching  along  the  whole  south-western  side  of  the 
park  and  forming  the  chief  playground  of  the  children  of 
Brooklyn.  It  is  a  pretty  sight  in  the  spring-time  when  May 
parties  are  in  progress  and  the  whole  expanse  is  filled  with 
brightly  beribboned  May  poles  and  happy  groups  of  school 
children. 

Continuing  southward  beside  the  Long  Meadow  and  keep- 
ing to  the  left  we  again  reach  rising  ground,  and  on  a  little 
knoll  on  the  right  we  find  the  bronze  Bust  of  John  Howard 
Payne,  "actor,  journalist,  dramatist,  and  author  of  Home, 
Sweet  Home."  It  was  erected  by  the  Faust  Club  of  Brooklyn 
{Henry  Baerer,  sculptor). 

Our  path,  curving  to  the  left,  now  leads  to  the  Menagerie, 
a  small  and  unimportant  collection  of  animals  and  birds 
although  new  and  modern  cages  are  in  process  of  construc- 
tion (the  bear  pits  are  roomy  and  contain  some  good  speci- 
mens). As  the  animal  houses  and  pens  are  strung  along  a 
single  path  we  cannot  fail,  continuing  south,  to  come  out  pres- 
ently at  the  Band-stand  and  Picnic  Grounds,  whence  a  rustic 
bridge  and  then  a  stone  bridge,  over  northern  branches  of  the 
Lake,  bring  us  to  the  Boat  House  (Restaurant  for  light  re- 
freshments, ice  cream,  etc.). 

Electric  launches  make  the  circuit  of  the  lake  (60  acres  in  extent) ; 
fare,  adults,  10  c;  children  under  twelve,  5  c.  Party  boats  for  one  of 
two,  25  c.  per  hour;  10  c.  extra  for  each  additional  person. 

The  path  curving  to  the  left  through  a  tunnel  under  the 
driveway  leads  to  the  Flower  Garden,  a  long  shaded  terrace 
facing  the  main  body  of  the  Lake  and  adorned  ^th  bronze 
busts  of  famous  musicians  and  others. 

They  include  Beethoven,  by  Henry  Baerer;  Mozart,  by  Augustus 
M.  J.  Mueller;  and  Weber,  by  Beach;  all  three  presented  by  the  United 
Singers  of  Brooklyn;  Grieg,  by  Ashjornsen,  presented  by  the  Nor- 
wegian Societies;  and  the  poet,  Thomas  Moore  erected  by  the  St.  Pat- 
rick Society  of  Brooklyn  {John  G.  Draddy,  sculptor,  1833-1904).  In 
Elace  of  honor  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Terrace  stands  a  *Bronze  Statue  of 
.incoln;  by  Henry  Kirke  Brown.  E.  of  the  Flower  Garden,  facing  the 
driveway,  is  a  bronze  bust  of  Washington  Irving,  by  Henry  Baerer.     S 


424  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

of  the  Flower  Garden  steps  descend  to  the  Lake.  A  few  hundred  feet 
on  path  curving  to  the  left  we  reach  a  bronze  group  strikingly  realistic: 
*A  Lioness  and  her  Cubs,  by   Victor  Peter. 

Steps  ascending  W.  of  Flower  Garden  lead  to  a  wide 
plateau,  "the  Old-fashioned  Flower  Garden"  whose  brilliant 
display  attracts  many  visitors.  The  drive- way  here  curves  to 
the  right,  crossing  an  arm  of  the  Lake  at  a  height  of  fifty  or 
sixty  feet.  Following  the  path  beside  it,  we  obtain,  from  the 
bridge,  an  impressive  first  view  of  the  Monument  to  the 
Maryland  heroes,  who  fell  on  Lookout  Hill.  The  monu- 
ment stands  half-way  up  the  slope  of  the  hill.  It  is  a  shaft 
of  polished  granite,  resting  on  a  square  granite  base,  and 
capped  with  a  bronze  Corinthian  Capital,  surmounted  by  a 
white  marble  globe  (Stanford  White,  architect).  It  was 
erected  in  1895  by  the  Maryland  Society  of  Sons  of  the 
American  Revolution,  and  is  simply  inscribed  "In  honor  of 
Maryland's  Five  Hundred  who  on  this  field  of  battle  August 
27,  1776,  saved  the  American  Army."  The  bodies  of  these 
gallant  Marylanders  were  interred,  not  on  the  battlefield,  but 
on  a  small  knoll  two  miles  to  the  northwest.  Third  ave. 
crosses  the  spot  midway  between  8th  and  9th  sts.,  but  its 
site  is  far  below  the  present  street  level. 

The  Prospect  Park  Greenhouses  lie  on  the  west  side  near 
the  5th  St.  entrance.    Open  daily  from  8  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

At  the  5th  ave.  entrance  on  Prospect  Park  West,  the 
gateway  is  flanked  by  Twa  Panthers,  heroic  size,  surmounting 
lofty  pedestals.  They  stand  alert,  with  heads  raised  and  ears 
pointed  forward   (Alexander  Phinister  Proctor^  sculptor). 

At  the  Ocean  ave.  entrance,  S.  side  of  Park,  stand  *The 
Horse  Tamers,  by  Frederick  MacMonnies.  The  details  of 
these  two  spirited  groups  may  be  best  studied  in  the  reduced 
replicas  in  the  Metropolitan  Museum  (second  floor,  S.  side 
of  main  staircase).  The  Horse  Tamers  are  companion  pieces: 
they  portray  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  a  pair  of  rearing  horses;  a 
nude  youth,  brandishing  a  whip,  bestrides  one  horse  and  is 
striving  to  control  the  plunging  animals. 

,     VI.  The  Brooklyn  Museum 

The  **Brooklyn  Museum  (PI.  XIII — F2)  faces  upon 
Eastern  Parkway  just  beyond  the  Brooklyn  Reservoir.  It  is 
open  to  the  public  on  week  days  from  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.,  on 
Sundays  from  2  to  6  p.  m.,  and  on  Thursday  evenings  from 
7.30  to  9.45.  Admission  is  free  excepting  on  Monday  and 
Tuesday,  when  an  entrance  fee  of  25  cents  is  charged; 
children  under  twelve  years  of  age,   10  cents. 


THE  BROOKLYN  MUSEUM  425 

The  Brooklyn  Institute  of  Arts  and  Sciences  originated  in  the 
Apprentices'  Library  Association,  fojunded  by  Augustus  Graham  in  1823, 
witn  the  co-operation  of  other  leading  citizens  of  that  time,  the  purpose 
being  to  found  a  free  reading  library  for  the  apprentices  of  Brooklyn. 
The  comer-stone  of  the  society's  first  building  was  laid  by  General 
Lafayette  (see  p.  406)  at  the  junction  of  Henry  and  Cranberry  Sts. 
on  July  4,  1825.  The  ceremony  was  accompanied  by  festivities  in  which 
the  children  of  Brooklyn  played  a  part.  One  of  them  was  the  poet 
Walt  Whitman,  then  six  years  old,  who  has  left^  a  vivid  description  of 
his  memories  of  the  event.  In  1835  the  society  had  outgrown  its 
quarters  and  removed  to  a  new  building  on  Washington  Street.  Its 
scope  had  been  much  extended,  and  its  public  hall  was  for  many  years 
the  scene  of  many  important  social  and  historic  gatherings,  in  which 
such  eminent  scientists  and  famous  speakers  as  Agassiz.  Dana  and  Morse, 
Sumner,  Garrison.  Emerson  and  Beecher  took  part.  In  1843  its  charter 
was  amended  and  its  name  changed  to  the  Brooklyn  Institute.  After 
some  years  of  stagnation,  it  was  reincorporated  in  1890,  at  which  time 
man^  other  separate  societies  and  clubs,  such  as  the  Brooklyn  Micro- 
scopical Society,  the  American  Astronomical  Society,  the  Brooklyn 
Entomological  Society  and  the  Linden  Camera  Club  voluntarily  merged 
themselves  in  the  Institute  as  new  departments.  The  possessions  of  the 
Institute  to-day  include,  in  addition  to  the  Central  Museum,  the  Chil- 
dren's Museum  in  Bedford  Park  (see  p.  436),  the  Brooklyn  Botanic 
Garden   (see  p.  434),  and  the  Art  Building  in  Montague  Street. 

The  design  of  the  present  museum  building,  as  shown 
by  the  model  in  the  Hall  of  Statuary,  calls  ultimately  for  an 
imposing  rectangular  structure,  with  a  northern  and  southern 
portico,  a  lofty  central  dome  and  transverse  corridors  dividing 
the  open  inner  space  into  four  courts  (M^im,  Mead  and 
White,  architects.  Up  to  the  present  time  only  thr§e  sections 
have  been  erected  (1897,  1905  and  1907),  comprising  the 
v/hole  of  the  northern  fagade.  The  northeast  section,  facing 
on  Washington  avenue,  is  now  in  process  of  construction. 

The  ♦♦Exterior  Sculptures  deserve  especial  attention,  be- 
cause, although  elaborate  ornamentation  is  not  rare  on  the 
outside  of  public  buildings  in  American  cities,  a  unity  of  design 
on  such  an  elaborate  scale  as  that  of  the  Brooklyn  Museum  is 
almost  unique.  The  plan  calls  for  four  symbolic  groups  in 
high  relief,  one  for  each  of  the  four  pediments  of  the  com- 
pleted building,  and  twenty  monolithic  sculptures  for  each 
of  the  four  quadrants,  or  eighty  altogether.  The  task  of 
working  out  a  harmonious  scheme  was  intrusted  to  Mr. 
Daniel^  C.  French,  and  he  and  the  other  sculptors  associated 
with  him  have  been  busy  with  their  task  since  1907. 

The  statues  on  the  two  fagades  of  the  northeast  quadrant 
represent  Oriental  ideas;  those  of  the  northwest  quadrant  are  devoted 
to  Greece  and  Rome;  the  southwest  section  will  be  aevoted  to  the  Middle 
Ages  and  the  Renaissance,  and  the  southeast  to  the  ideals  of  modern 
Europe  and  America.  Since  the  north,  and  part  of  the  east  facade,  are 
fhe  only  portions  of  the  Museum  yet  completed,  the  schemes  for  the 
statues  for  the  northeast  and  northwest  quadrants  have  naturally  been 
worked  out  first.  They  include  the  following  allotments:  Egypt,  2; 
Assyria  and  Babylonia,  a;  Persia,  2;  India,  4;  China,  4;  Japan,  i; 
Old  and  New  Testament,  4;  Mohammedanism,  z;  Greece,  10;  Rome,  to. 


426  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

At  present  (1916),  one  pediment  group  and  thirty 
of  the  monolithic  sculptures  are  in  place.  They  form  a 
noble  gallery  of  sculpture,  and  it  is  a  pity  that  there  is  no  point 
from  whidi  they  can  be  closely  studied.  The  photogravure 
reproductions  in  the  Institute  Bulletin  (accessible  in  the 
Museum  library)  afford  an  opportunity  for  the  study  of  de- 
tails; but  the  visitor  will  do  well  to  provide  himself  with  a 
good  pair  of  opera  glasses,  so  that  he  can  examine  these 
colossal  statues  at  a  convenient  distance. 

The  Northern  Pediment,  by  Daniel  C.  French  and  Adolph  A. 
Weinmann  contains  two  central  figures — a  man  representing  Science 
and  a  woman  representing  Art.  Between  them  they  hold  a  shield 
designed  to  bear  the  insignia  of  the  Instituteu  To  the  right  of  Art 
is  a  group  of  three  figures,  symbolizing  Painting,  Sculpture  and 
Architecture.  To  the  left  of  Science  is  a  similar  group,  symbolic 
of  Astronomy,  Geology  and  Biology.  In  the  left-hand  angle  is  a 
peacock,  the  Oriental  symbol  of  art,  and  in  the  right  angle  a  Sphinx, 
the   Egyptian   expression  of  Wisdom. 

The  statues  now  in  position  run  in  the  following  order:  First,  from 
the  Pediment  westward:  (1)  The  Greek  Epic  (Homer),  by  Daniel  C. 
French;  (2)  Greek  Lyric  Poetry  (Pindar),  by  Daniel  C.  French:  (3) 
The  Greek  Drama  (Aeschylus),  by  George  T.  Brewster;  (4)  The  Greek 
Statesman  (Pericles),  by  George  F.  Brewster;  (5)  Grede  Sdence 
(Archimedes),  by  Kenyan  Cox-  (6)  Greek  Religion  (Minerva),  by^ 
Daniel  C.  French;  (7)  Greek  Philosophy  (Plato),  by  Herbert  Adams;* 
(8)  Greek  Architecture  (Phidias),  by  Herbert  Adams;  (9)  Greek 
Sculpture  (Praxit<^es) ,  by  Herbert  Adams;  (10)  Greek  Letters  (Demos- 
thenes), by  Herbert  Adams;  (11)  Roman  Law  (Justinian),  by  John 
Gelert;  (12)  The  Roman  Statesman  (Julius  Cssar),  by  John  Gelert; 
(13)  The  Roman  Emperor  (Augustus  Caesar),  by  John  Gelert;  (14) 
The  Roman  Orator  (Cicero),  by  John  Gelert;  (is)  The  Roman  Epic 
(Virgil),  by  Charles  A.  Heher,  Second,  from  the  Pediment  eastward: 
(i)  Indian  Religion  (Buddha),  by  Edward  C.  Potter;  (2)  Indian 
Philosophy  (Shankara)^  by  Edward  C.  Potter;  (3)  Indian  Literature 
(Kalidasa),  by  Attilio  Piccirilli;  (4)  The  Indian  Law  Giver  (Manu),  by 
Attilio  Piccirilli;  (5)  The  Persian  Religion  (Zoroaster),  by  Edmund 
T.  Quinn'  (6)  The  Genius  of  Islam  (Mohammed),  by  Charles  Keck; 
(7)  The  Hebrew  Apostle  (St.  Paul),  by  Augustus  Lukeman;  (8)  The 
Hebrew  Prophet  (Isaiah),  by  Augustus  Lukeman:  (9)  The  Hebrew 
Psalmist  (David),  by  Augustus  Lukeman;  (lo)  The  Hebrew  Law  Giver 
(Moses),  by  Augustus  Lukeman;  (11)  Japanese  Art  (Many  Artists),  by 
hfiss  Janet  Scudder;  (12)  Chinese  Law  (Many  Statesmen),  by  Karl 
Bitter;  (i^)  Chinese  Art  (Many  Artists),  by  Karl  Bitter^  (14)  Chinese 
Religion  (Lao-Tse),  by  Karl  Bitter;  (15)  Chinese  Philosophy  (Con- 
fucius), by  Karl  Bitter. 

The  total  cost  of  these  thirty  sculptures  was  $122,000. 

On  Sundays  and  holidays  the  main  entrance  is 
used,  but  on  week  days  admission  is  by  small  door 
immediately  to  the  right  of  the  imposing  stone  stair- 
way which  forms  the  approach  to  the  portico  and  main 
entrance  hall  on  the  floor  above.  A  narrow  hallway  leads 
directly  to  the  back  of  the  building,  where  staircase  and 
elevator  are  situated.  The  collections  contained  in  the 
Museum    are    arranged    as    follows:    Basement,    Ethnology; 


THE  BROOKLYN  MUSEUM  427 

Ground  Floor,  First  Floor,  Ethnology  and  Sculpture  and 
Decorative  Arts;  Second  Floor,  Natural  History;  Third 
Floor,  Paintings  and  Sculpture.  The  basement,  exhibit 
may  be  conveniently  disposed  of  first.  It  consists 
chiefly  of  domestic,  household  articles  of  the  Japanese, 
the  Ainus  and  Koreans,  furniture,  table  ware,  jewelry,  articles 
showing  their  skill  in  the  applied  arts,  notably  Japanese 
wrought  iron  work  inlaid  with  silver  and  gold;  fans,  pipes, 
and  lastly  a  curious  variety  of  games,  votive  offerings, 
toys,  etc. 

Ground  Floor.  The  Eastern  wing  contains  some  richly 
embroidered  Chinese  ceremonial  robes  and  other  wearing 
apparel.  A  long  gallery  takes  us  through  the  print  collection 
whose  exhibits  are  changed  frequently  to  the  Museum  library 
which  contains  22,000  vols,  on  art,  science  and  ethnology, 
(free  to  the  public  at  all  hours  when  the  Museum  is  open). 
Returning  to  the  entrance  passage,  we  descend  three  steps 
to  the  western  wing,  the  first  room  of  which  is  the  Japanese 
gallery,  containing  armor,  weapons  and  more  wearing  ap- 
parel, war  horns,  stone  beads,  musical  instruments,  fans,  etc. 

In  the  narrow  passage  leading  to  the  second  room  are 
the  Burmese  and  Siamese  collections,  including  porcelain 
and  enameled  copper  ware,  lacquer  work,  images  of  Buddha, 
of  gilded  wood  and  of  brass,  betel-nut  boxes  and  weapons. 
The  second  room  contains  exhibits  from  the  Pacific  Islands, 
in  the  following  order,  beginning  on  the  right:  New  Britain 
Archipelago,  Gilbert  Islands,  Hawaiian  Islands,  Fiji  Islands, 
Marquesas  Islands,  Samoa,  Harvey  Islands  and  New  Zealand. 
A  winding  stairway  leads  to  the  Second  Floor,  containing  the 
collections  gathered  from  the  Indians  of  the  southwest 
United  States,  of  Central  and  Northern  California,  and  of 
the  Northwest  coast  of  .  North  America.  Beginning  at  the 
furthest  room  in  the  southwest  corner,  we  find  an  extensive 
assemblage  of  totems  and  other  carved  wood,  from  the 
Kwakiutl  and  Nookta  Indians  of  Vancouver  Island,  the  Makah 
Indians  in  the  State  of  Washington,  the  Ehatisaht,  Oiaht  and 
Salish  Indians,  also  of  Vancouver  Island,  and  the  Haida 
Indians  of  Queen  Charlotte  Island. 

Passing  into  the  adjoining  room,  we  find  the  Pomo  Indian 
collection,  from  Upper  Lake,  California,  including  feather 
dance  dresses,  bows,  arrows,  and  baskets,  the  product  of  the 
Museum  Expedition  of  1907  r  the  Museum  Expedition  of 
1905,  from  the  Yurok  Indians  of  Klamath  River,  California 
(*Yurok  baskets  in  central  cases) ;  the  collection  of  the 
Museum  Expedition  of  191 1  among  the  Yokuts  Indians  of 


444  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Peter  Cooper  (1791-1863)  was  bom  of  reTolutionary  stock.  In 
boyhood  he  mastered  several  trades;  subsequently  he  became  engaged 
in  the  manufacture  of  iron  and  various  forms  of  machinery.  He  con- 
structed the  first  American-built  locomotive,  and  bore  an  important  part 
in  the  laying  of  the  first  Atlantic  Cable. 

Returning  to  the  Plaza,  the  visitor  should  be  sure  to  cross 
to  Manhattan  by  the  Williamsburg  Bridge,  the  *view  from 
which  is  regarded  by  many  as  the  finest  to  be  had  from  any 
of  the  bridges. 


Lying  in  quite  another  part  of  Brooklyn,  but  of  great  in- 
terest to  any  traveler  interested  in  the  commercial  life  of 
New  York,  is  the  Bush  Terminal. 

The  Bush  Terminal   Company,  whose  docks  and  yards 

extend  from  40th  to  46th  street,   South  Brooklyn,  controls 

by    far   the   largest   docking  and   storage   enterprise   in   the 

vicinity  of  Greater  New  York.    It  has  ten  industrial  service 

buildings,    all    of    reinforced    concrete,    130    warehouses,    25 

miles  of  private  railway  track,  a  completely  equipped  railroad 

yard,  seven  1400-foot  covered  piers,  and  a  flotilla  of  barges, 

car-floats,  lighters  and  tugs. 

Seventeen  steamship  lines  are  berthed  at  these  piers,  including 
among  others  such  important  lines  as  the  American  Hawaiian,  the 
Austro-American,  the  Prince,  the  American  &  African,  the  Hansa,  the 
Hamburg-South  American,  the  Norton  and  the  American  &  Australian 
lines.  The  magnitude  of  the  piers  may  be  realized  frOm  the  following 
dimensions  of  the  new  one,  slightly  larger  than  the  others:  It  is  1400 
ft.  long,  50  ft.  high  and  270  ft.  wide.  Its  two  stories  comprise  about 
15  acres.  Its  foundation  piles  extend  30  ft.  below  low  water,  are 
grouped  in  lots  from  10  to  30  and  are  capped  with  concrete 
heads  11  feet  in  diameter.  The  total  cost  was  about  $1,000,000. 
Prior  to  the  war,  the  company  which  rented  this  pier  arranged  i 
schedule  so  that  three  ships  should  always  be  at  the  pier;  each  vessel 
had  a  capacity  of  a  z 0,000  ton  cargo,  so  that  this  one  line  alone  could 
handle  1,500,000  tons  of  freight  per  year. 


GREENWOOD  CEMETERY  445 

X.  Greenwood  Cemetery 

♦Greenwood  Cemetery,  second  in  importance  to  Wood- 
lawn  alone  among  the  cemeteries  of  Greater  New  York, 
occupies  approximately  a  square  mile  of  highlands  in  South 
Brooklyn,  overlooking  New  York  Harbor.  It  is  about  2]^ 
miles  from  Brooklyn  Bridge,  and  can  be  best  reached  by  the 
5th  Ave.  Elevated  line  to  25th  St.  station  (main  entrance), 
or  by  7th  Ave.  trolley  to  N.  E.  entrance  at  20th  St. 

History.  In  1832,  Henry  E.  Pierrcpont,  returning  from  a  visit 
to  the  newly  opened  Mt.  Auburn  Cemetery  (1831),  took  steps  to  have 
a  similar  one  established  in  Brooklyn,  and  suggested  the  wooded  heights 
of  Gowanus,  the  historic  ground  where  Stirling  and  his  Pennsylvania, 
Delaware  and  Maryland  regiments  made  their  brave  stand.  In  1837 
the  Greenwood  Cemetery  Corporation  was  incorporated,  with  a  capital 
of  $300,000  and  the  privilege  of  purchasing  200  acres.  The  work  of 
surveying  was  begun  in  1838,  and  the  cemetery  opened  in  1840,  at  a 
total  cost  of  $281,684.  The  first  interment  was  that  of  John  Hanna, 
Sept.   5th,   1840. 

Opposite  the  main  entrance  is  a  lofty  ornamental  gate- 
way, erected  in  i860,  from  designs  by  Upjohn  &  Co.  It  is 
in  the  middle  pointed  English  Gothic  style,  of  Belleville 
brown  stone.  It  holds  the  offices  of  the  administrators  and 
3  visitors*  room. 

Over  the  gateway  are  a  series  of  bas-relief  sculptures  representing: 
I.  The  Entombment  of  the  Saviour;  2.  His  Resurrection;  3.  The  Resur- 
rection of  Lazarus;  4.  The  Restoration  of  the'  Widow's  Son.  These 
are  executed  in  olive  tinted  sandstone.  The  designs,  as  wdl  as  the 
four  allegorical  figures  on  the  shields  of  each  symbol  are  by  John  Moffat. 

Opposite  the  gateway,  on  the  L.,  is  the  Theatre  Fire 
Monument,  beneath  which  lie  the  unidentified  bodies  of  those 
who  perished  in  the  Brooklyn  Theatre  fire  in  December,  1876, 
in  which  nearly  300  persons  lost  their  lives.  The  Soldiers* 
Monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  148,000  soldiers  who 
died  in  the  Civil  War,  stands  on  the  plateau  of  Battle  Hill 
(so  called  from  the  part  it  played  in  the  Battle  of  Long 
Island).  On  Locust  Hill,  near  Oak  Ave.,  is  a  bust  of  Horace 
Greeley,  founder  of  the  Tribune,  erected  by  the  printers 
of  America.  A  short  distance  S.  of  the  entrance  in  Baywood 
Dell,  stands  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Governor  DeWitt 
Clinton.  Nearby  is  the  Mortuary  Chapel,  built  of  Indiana 
limestone,  in  the  French  Gothic  style  (^Warren  &  JVetfnore, 
architects.) 

The  grave  of  Professor  Samuel  F.  B.  Morse,  inventor 
of  the  electric  telegraph,  is  on  High  wood  Hill,  a  simple 
triangular  block  marking  the  spot.  One  of  the  most  notable 
monuments  is  that  commemorating  John  Matthews  (1809- 
70).     It  is   situated   at  the   S.   end   of   Valley  Water,   and 


446  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

consists  of  a  sculptured  sarcophagus,  on  the  top  of  which  is 
a  full-length  figure  of  the  deceased.  It  rests  beneath  an 
elaborately  carved  canopy.  ^  Cost,  $30,000  (Carl  Miller, 
artist) . 

Two  other  monuments  should  be  noted:  The  Pilot's 
Monument,  erected  by  the  pilots  of  New  York  to  a  heroic 
comrade;  and  the  Sea  Captain's  Monument,  surmounted 
by  a  statue  of  Captain  John  Correka  (the  sextant  which  he 
holds  in  his  hand  is  the  identical  one  which  he  used  in  life.) 

Among  the  graves  of  famous  persons  interred  in  Green- 
wood are  those  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher  (see  p.  407); 
Brown  Brothers,  the  bankers;  and  James  (jordon  Bennett, 
founder  of  the  New  York  Herald.  The  number  of  in- 
terments in  Greenwood  has  risen  to  more  than  325,000  persons. 

XI.  Coney  Island,  Brighton  Beach  and 
Sheepshead  Bay 

Coney  Island  may  be  reached:  i.  By  water  (Iron  Steamboat  Co., 
17  Battery  pi.;  fares,  Round  trip:  adults  50c.,  children  30c.);  2.  B> 
new  Fourth  ave.  (Brooklyn)  Subway,  from  Centre  St.,  Manhattan,  in  40 
min.;  fare,  10  c.  3.  By  Brooklyn  Elevated  R.  R.  from  Manhattan  end 
of  Brooklyn  Bridge:  Culver  Line.  "Brighton  Beach  Line;  fare.  10  c. 
4.  By  surface  trolley-car:  from  Manhattan  end  of  Brooklyn  Bridge; 
Smith  and  Ninth  St.  Line,  Union  St.  Line,  Vanderbilt  Ave.  Line; 
average  time,  i  hour;  fare,  10  c;  also  by  ferry  to  39th  St.  (Brooklyn), 
then  by  trolley.  There  are  surface  lines  running  to  Coney  Island  from 
the  Williamsburg  Bridge  Plaza,  but  the  ride  is  tedious  and  uninteresting. 

Coney  Island,  the  most  westerly  of  the  series  of  popular 
seaside  playgrounds  on  the  S.  coast  of  Long  Island,  is,  in- 
cluding West  Brighton,  the  oldest,  most  densely  crowded  and 
most  democratic  of  them  all.  It  consists  in  the  main  of  one 
broad  street,  Surf  Avenue,  almost  a  mile  in  length,  extending? 
from  Sea  Gate  at  the  W.  end  to  Brighton  Beach  at  the  E. 
The  space  between  this  avenue  and  the  beach  is  mainly 
occupied  by  hotels,  bathing  establishments,  amusement  parks, 
etc.,  but  at  the  midway  point  is  a  netyrork  of  narrow  inter- 
secting alleys  and  arcades,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Boivery, 
densely  packed  with  every  imaginable  catch-penny  device : 
shooting  galleries,  merry-go-rounds,  refreshment  booths,  etc. 

The  time  to  see  (3oney  Island  at  its  height  is  at  night,  when  the 
glitter  of  its  myriad  lights,  the  contagious  merriment  of  its  thronging 
crowds  cast  a  veil  over  the  tawdry  cheapness  and  vulgarity  that  are 
painfully  evident  in  the  daytime.  On  the  other  hand,  one  misses  at 
night  the  interesting  contrast  offered  by  the  successive  sections  of  the 
ditterent  beaches,  from  Sea  Gate  to  Rockaway,  the  types  of  summer 
colonies,  etc.,  all  of  which  can  be  studied  to  advantage  oy  day. 


CONEY  ISLAND  TO  SHEEPSHEAD  BAY        447 

The  Brooklyn  Rapid  Transit  Depot  opens  on  Surf  ave., 
near  the  E.  end.  Just  beyond  (R.)  is  the  "Rocky  Road  to 
Dublin" ;  diagonally  opposite  is  the  site  of  what  was  formerly 
"Dreamland/*  now  occupied  by  a  number  of  minor  shows. 
Near  gth  st.  (L.)  is  the  Cadillac  Hotel,  an  economical  res- 
taurant, offering  a  shore  dinner  for  75  c.  Further  on  (L.)  is 
Feltman's,  an  enormous  restaurant,  with  an  open-air  motion- 
picture  garden,  having  a  seating  capacity  of  2000  persons 
(admission,  10  c. ;  Sat.,  Sun.  and  hoi.,  15  c.) ;  In  Feldner's 
Deutscher  Garten  a  "Shore  Dinner  de  Luxe"  is  served,  $1.50. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  Surf  Ave.  is  Luna  Park,  an  enclosed 
amusement  park  containing  scores  of  separate  devices  de- 
signed to  give  a  variety  of  breathless  thrills.  The  lO-cent 
fees  exacted  for  each  soon  mount  up  to  a  costly  total ;  but 
combination  tickets  may  be  bought  at  the  entrance  gate, 
effecting  a  substantial  saving. 

Further  on,  extending  through  to  the  Bowery,  is  Hender- 
son's Music  Hall,  Restaurant  and  Hotel;  opposite,  on  the 
Bowery,  is  StaucWs,  a  large  dance  hall  and  restaurant.  Be- 
yond, at  the  end  of  the  Bowery,  is  Steeplechase  Park,  another 
enclosed  amusement  park,  containing  among  other  attractions, 
a  swimming  pool  which,  so  the  proprietors  claim,  is  the  largest 
in  the  world ;  also  5000  bath  houses. 

Admission  to  Music  Hall :  matinee,  10  and  25c. ;  evening, 
25,  50c. 

Beyond  Steeplechase  Park  are  (L.)  Hotel  Ravenhall  and 
the  Kaiserhof,  both  containing  better  class  restaurants.  W. 
of  this  point  come  a  series  of  better  class  bathing  establish- 
ments:  the  Majestic  Baths,  Washington  Baths  (2000  rooms). 
Eureka  Baths,  etc.  The  average  charge  for  the  season  is  $5 
for  a  locker;  $20  for  a  room  accommodating  four  persons. 

In  this  vicinity  on  Surf  ave.  are  situated:  the  Hospital 
of  the  Brooklyn  Children's  Aid  Society,  and  the  same  society's 
Sea-side  Home ;  also  the  Health  Home  of  the  N.  Y.  Children's 
Aid  Society.  Still  further  on  W.  is  the  St,  John's  Summer 
Home,  a  branch  of  the  Brooklyn  R.  C.  Orphan  Asylum  Society, 

Beyond  this  point  is  Sea  Gate,  a  summer  home  colony, 
containing  several  hundred  dwellings,  many  of  them  costly. 
There  are  no  shops  or  places  of  amusement.  To  economize 
time,  it  is  well  to  take  the  Surf  ave.  trolley  back  to  starting 
point. 

At  the  E.  end  of  Surf  ave.  is  a  large  municipal  free  bath 
house,  a  conspicuous  structure  of  concrete.  Opposite  is  a  small 
park,  bounded  on  the  E.  by  Ocean  Parkway,  a  broad  carriage 


448  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

road,  flanked  by  bicycle  and  footpaths,  and  extending  from 
S.  E.  corner  of  Prospect  Park,  a  distance  of  over  five  miles. 

A  few  years  ago,  when  the  bicycling  craze  was  at  its  height, 
on  Sundays  and  holidays  an  almost  unbroken  stream  of 
wheels  passed  hour  after  hour  along  these  paths.  Now  an 
almost  unbroken  stream  of  automobiles  throng  the  Boulevard 
going  and  coming  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  On  Ocean 
Parkway,  adjoining  the  park,  is  the  Shelbourne  Hotel  (open 
all  the  year).  Facing  the  hotel  is  the  Brighton  Beach  Casino 
(Shore  Dinner,  $1.50)  ;  and  adjoining  it  is  the  New  Brighton 
Theatre  (vaudeville). 

Admission :  matinee,  box  seats,  50  c. ;  other  seats,  50  and 
25  c. :  evening,  25,  50,  75  c,  $1. 

Brighton  Beach.  This  beach,  quieter  and  less  crowded 
than  the  Coney  Island  section,  has  long  been  a  favorite  resort 
of  Brookljmites.  It  contains  one  large  hotel,  the  Brighton 
Beach  Hotel  (European  and  American  plan),  and  an  extensive 
colony  of  small  bungalows ;  also  a  few  restaurants  and  places 
of  amusement,  including  the  "Giant  Safety  Coaster,**  an 
aerial  railway,  no  ft.  high  and  ij4  m-  in  length,  aflFording*  a 
breathless  "chase  through  the  clouds." 

Manhattan  Beach,  still  further  E.,  has  recently  been  cut 
up  into  building  lots  and  is  now  a  summer  colony.  Until 
1910,  it  was  the  fashionable  part  of  Coney  Island. 

Sheepshead  Bay.  Situated  across  the  bay  that  sets  in 
behind  the  Manhattan  end  of  Coney  Island.  It  contains 
numerous  old-fashioned  private  residences  and  a  few  shore- 
dinner  restaurants;  notably  Tappan's.  It  is  a  favorite  starting 
point  for  fishing  parties ;  and  there  are  a  number  of  boats 
that  make  daily  trips  during  the  season  to  points  where  deep- 
water  fishing  is  good.    Average  fare  per  passenger,  $1. 

Here  also  is  located  the  Sheepshead  Bay  Motordrome. 

Sheepshead  Bay  is  reached  either  by  the  Brighton  Beach  Electric 
Line  from  Brooklyn  Bridge,  or  by  Ocean  ave.  trolley  from  Williams- 
burg Plaza  (or  Flatbush  ave.  trolley  from  Brooklyn  Bridge  and  change 
at  Rogers  ave.).  Also  by  Long  Island  R.  R.,  Manhattan  Beach  division, 
from  E.  34th  St. 


/ 


STATEN   ISLAND 

(The  Borough  of  Richmond) 

Staten  Island  (PI.  A— B5-6)  is  distant  twenty  minutes 
from  the  Battery  by  St.  George  ferry.  (Fare  5  cents.)  For 
waters  surrounding  the  island,  see  p.  104;  for  size,  etc.,  p. 
xvi.  The  highest  point  on  the  island  is  Todt  Hill,  412  feet. 
Richmond  Terrace,  to  the  west  of  the  ferry  landing,  and  Bay 
St.  to  the  east,  are  the  principal  streets  from  which  other 
streets  run  into  the  center  of  the  island.  Staten  Island  was 
at  one  time  the  fashionable  suburb  of  New  York,  and  one 
finds  everywhere  beautiful  old  pillared  houses,  built  when 
land,  lumber,  domestic  service  and  fuel  all  were  cheap.  Most 
of  them  are  now  abandoned  and  falling  to  ruin.  The  old 
taverns  have  been  taken  over  by  the  breweries  and  are  run  as 
common  saloons.  One  finds. scattered  about  French  table  d'hote 
places  popular  with  many  classes  of  New  Yorkers  during  the 
summer.  Land  companies  have  attempted,  with  indiflFerent 
success,  to  boom  the  island,  but,  despite  its  accessibility  and 
the  quiet  beauty  of  many  of  its  sections,  except  among  the 
villiages  near  the  ferry  and  portions  of  the  center  of  the 
island,  a  depressing  atmosphere  of  past  prosperity  envelops 
the  island.     A  few  of  the  old  country  places  are  kept  up. 

Trolleys  to  all  the  northern  parts  pf  the  island  start  from  St.  George 
Ferry.  The  Staten  Island  Rapid  Transit  R.  R.  (steam  cars)  also  starts 
from  St.  George  Ferry.  It  has  three  branches,  along  the  N.  shore  W. 
to  New  Jersey;  along  the  E.  shore  S.  to  South  Beach;  and  along  the 
E.    shore  to   Tottenville. 

History:  Staten  Island  was  originally  occupied  by  the 
Raritan  Indians,  a  branch  of  the  Delawares,  who  called  it 
Aqiiehonga  Man-ack-nang,  "The  place  of  High  Sandy  Bank.*' 
It  is  claimed  that  Verrazzano  discovered  the  Island  in  1524. 
It  was  first  seen  by  Henry  Hudson  on  Sept.  2d,  1609,  and 
was  named  S fatten  Eylandt  in  honor  of  the  States  General 
of  the  Netherlands,  in  whose  employ  he  was.  The  earliest 
Dutch  settlement  is  said  to  have  been  at  Oude  Dorp  (Old 
Town,  now  Arrochar),  but  this  has  been  disputed.  In  1639 
some  settlers  were  introduced  by  David  Peterson  de  Vries,  who 
had  obtained  a  grant  from  (5ov.  Van  Twiller;  and  a  third 
attempt  was  made  at  Oude  Dorp  in  1641,  but  the  village  was 
destroyed  by  Indians.  In  1664  the  Island  passed,  with  other 
Dutch  possessions,  under  the  British  rule  of  Gov.  Nicolls. 
In  1668  the  Duke  of  York,  to  whom  the  King  had  given 
New  York,  decided  that  all  islands  in  the  harbor,  small 
enough  to  be  circumnavigated  in  twenty- four  hours,  should 
belong  to  New  York,  the  larger  ones  remaining  part  of  New 
Jersey.     A  certain  Captain  Christopher  Billopp  sailed  around 


450  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Stateri  Island  in  his  own  vessel  within  the  prescribed  time, 
thus  securing  the  Island  for  New  York.  During  the  Revolu- 
tion Gen.,  Sir  William  Howe  landed  his  forces  on  the  Island. 
July  3d,  1776,  placing  the  Island  under  marti^il  law,  and 
making  his  headquarters  at  New  Dorp.  The  British  vacated 
the  Island,  Nov.  25th,  1783.  In  1898  the  various  towns  and 
villages  on  the  Island  were  brought  together  to  form  the 
Borough  of  Richmond. 

As  the  ferry  approaches  St.  George  (PI.  A — B5),  the 
large-  gray  building  on  the  height  is  the  Curtis  High  School, 
named  after  George  William  Curtis;  it  has  about  iioo  pupils. 
The  large  white,  modern  building  nearby  is  an  apartment 
hotel    The  large  building  facing  the  ferry  is  Borough  Hall. 

Directly  behind,  at  154  Stuyvesant  Place,  is  the  Public 
Museum  of  Arts  and  Sciences  (open  weekdays),  contain- 
ing on  the  first  floor  a  collection  of  ancient  iron  articles — 
locks,  buttons,  etc. — dug  up  in  the  vicinity,  a  collection  of 
Staten  Island  birds  and  other  objects  of  interest.  On  the 
second  floor  is  a  collection  of  Indian  relics  of  bone  and  stone, 
found  on  the  island.  Near  the  Ferry  is  Hugofs  restaurant; 
luncheon,  6oc. ;  dinner,  $1. 

Returning  to  Richmond  Terrace,  the  street  skirting  the 
northern  shore  from  the  ferry,  and  proceeding  west  on  foot 
or  by  a  Port  Richmond  trolley,  one  passes  many  of  the  fas- 
cinating old  houses,  built  usually  of  wood  with  wooden  Greek 
pillars,  now  in  a  sad  state  of  decay.  The  huge  barracks  just 
beyond  Church  street,  uninhabited  and  windowless,  was  the 
Pavilion  Hotel,  built  in  1828.  The  old  stone  house  at  the 
corner  of  Tysen  street,  with  the  gaudy  gilt  brewer's  sign 
and  the  unpardonable  name  Knickerbocker  Hotel,  was 
Neville  House,  built  in  1770. 

The  house  owes  its  former  name  to  the  fact  that  it  was  at  one 
time  the  residence  of  Captain  John  Neville,  U.  S.  N.  The  interior  has 
been  cruelly  maltreated  with  steel  ceilings,  but  the  doors  and  stair 
way' have  not  been  lost,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  barroom  on  one 
side  _and_  the  parlor-dining-room  on  the  other  has  a  slight  flavor  of 
English  inns.  .  (Hot  roast  beef  sandwich  isc.  is  generous  in  size  and  • 
excellent  in  quality.) 

Sailors*  Snug  Habror  is  just  beyond.  (Inmates  act  as 
guides ;  a  small  gratuity  or  a  cigar  may  be  given  in  return  for 
their  courteous  attention.)  Near  the  entrance  is  a  monument 
over. the  grave  of  the  founder,  Capt,  Richard  Randall,  and 
to. the  west,  near  the  governor's  house,  a  statue  of  him  by 
St.  Caudens. 

The  institution  was  projected  by  Captain  Thomas  Ran- 
dall and  founded  in  1801  by  his  son  Robert  Richard  Randall. 


STATEN  ISLAND  45i 

who  bequeathed  for  the  purpose  his  extensive  property  lying 
S.  of  Union  S(|.  and  known  as  the  Minto  farm.  The  trus- 
tees, however,  foreseeing  the  vahie  of  this  location,  decided 
to  rent  the  land  and  applied  the  income  to  acquiring  and 
maintaining  the  present  Institution  on  Staten  Island.  Under 
careful  management  the  property  in  Manhattan  now  ap- 
proaches $18,000,000  in  value,  and  the  whole  income  yielded 
supports  about  1000  sailors.  Men  who  have  served  five  years 
under  the  American  flag  are  eligible  for  admission. 

Continuing  W.  along  the  Terrace,  we  pass,  at  Davis 
ave.,  the  De  Groot-Pelton  H'ouse,  the  stone  or  western  end  of 
which  dates  from  about  1730.  Major  Andre  was  once  bil- 
leted here.  Further"  to  the  W.,  is  Bard  ave.,  on  which,  two 
blocks  S.,  is  an  impretentious  two-story  wooden  house,  for- 
merly the  home  of  George  William  Curtis. 

If  one  takes  the  Staten  Island  Rapid  Transit  instead  of 
the  trolley,  from  the  ferry,  the  stations  are  New  Brighton 
(i  m.).  Sailors'  Snug  Harbor  (i^  m.),  Livingston  {2^  m.), 
Port  Richmond  (4  m.).  Tower  Hill,  Elm  Park,  Mariner's 
F I  arbor.  On  the  E.  coast,  trolleys  go  as  far  as  Richmond. 
The  steam  cars  follow  the  same  track  as  far  as  Clifton. 
The  line  to  South  Beach  starts  at  St.  George  Ferry.  The 
first  is  Tompkinsville  (i  m.),  where  was  once  situated  the 
Harbor  Quarantine ,  burned  by  the  neighbors  in  1858  on  account 
of  the  infection  of  the  district  from  the  hospital.  Quarantine 
is  now  on  Swinburne  Island  (p.  104).  On  Paznlion  Hill 
(up  Clinton  and  Church  streets)  are  the  remains  of  two  old 
fortifications.  Back  from  the  shore  the  S.  R.  Smiith  In- 
firmary, Castleton  ave.,  Tompkinsville,  a  general  hospital; 
Crimes  Hill,  a  residence  district,  reached  by  the  Serpentine 
Road,  and  Silver  Lake  Cemetery. 

Stapleton  (i^  m.)  (PI.  A— Bs).  The  early  home  of 
Commodore  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  (1794-1877)  is  at  the  N.  W. 
corner  of  Union  and  Bay  sts.  Somewhat  farther  along  on 
Bay  St.  is  the  United  States  Marine  Hospital^  a  huge  stone 
building  with  two  wings.  The  Garibaldi  House  is  at  the 
corner  of  Chestnut  and  Tompkins  aves.  The  house  for- 
merly stood  across  the  street.  It  was  purchased  by  Bachman 
of  Bachman's  Brewery,  moved  to  its  present  position  and 
presented  to  the  Italian  Government:  The  government  has 
protected  it  by  a  huge  and  astonishing  cement  superstructure, 
(iaribaldi  lived  in  the  house  from  185 1  to  1855,  with  Antonio 
Meucci,  the  inventor  of  a  telephone  system,  who  died  here 
in  1889.  Lazzari's  restaurant  is  on  Chestnut  ave.,  nearby 
(Kood    dinner    $1).      Fort    Wadsworth    (3^/^    m.)    govern- 


452  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ment  reservation  (p.  xviii).  Cliff  Cottage  Hotel  at  the  foot 
of  Cliff  street.  Arrochar  (4V2  m.)  the  site  of  Oude  Dorp„ 
the  settlement  made  by  the  Dutch  in  1641.  South  Beach  (5J^ 
m.)  connected  by  trolley  with  Midland  Beach.  These  two 
amusement  resorts  contain  bathing  pavilions,  carousels, 
amusement  devices,  and  restaurants  of  varying  excellence. 

Returning  to  Clifton,  and  following  the  main  line  south, 
we  pass  Grassmere,  Dongan  Hills  {Garretson),  Grant  City 
(6  m.),  with  the  Moravian  cemetery  in  which  are  manv  an- 
cient graves   and  the  mausoleum  of  the   Vanderbilt   family. 

New  Dorp  (Richmond)  contains  many  old  houses,  a 
group  of  which  stands  about  the  intersection  of  Richmond 
Road  and  New  Dorp  Lane.  St.  Andrew's  Church,  cor.  Mill 
Road  and  Fresh  Kills  Road,  was  established  in  1708  by  Queen 
Anne  and  still  possesses  a  part  of  the  silver  communion  set 
which  she  gave.  The  queen  also  gave  153  acres  in  what  is 
now  Stapleton,  for  the  support  of  the  church.  Three  mem- 
orial tablets  were  erected  in  1908,  one  for  Queen  Anne,  the 
others  for  former  rectors  of  the  church. 

Revolutionary  lore  pertains  to  all  this  neighborhood. 
Oakwood  Heights  {Court  House),  Bay  Terrace,  Great  Kills 
{Giffords,  gVi  m.),  Eltingville,  Annadale  (Green  Ridge), 
Huguenot  Park  {Rossville),  Terra  Marine  Inn,  on  the  shore 
a  half-mile  distant  is  a  summer  roadhouse.  Princess  Bay 
(13  m.)  is  a  fishing  place.  On  the  shore  road  about  a  half 
mile  from  the  station  is  Purdey*s  Hotel,  now  called  the  Old 
Homestead  and  adorned  with  a  huge  gilt  brewer's  sign. 
The  buildings  are  nearly  200  years  old,  well  preserved  and 
little  altered.  .  Pleasant  Plains  (Mt.  Loretto),  Richmond 
Valley  (Kreischennlle),  Atlantic,  Tottenville  (16  m.)  Ferry 
to  Perth  Amhoy,  N.  J.  To  reach  the  Billopp  House,  from 
Tottenville,  follow  the  Perth  Amboy  Road  S.  around  the  turn 
to  Belmont  ave.  It  was  built  in  1688  by  Christopher  Billopp, 
who  had  received  a  grant  of  1163  A.,  for  circumnavigating 
the  island  (p.  449).  This  house  was  the  scene  of  an  inter- 
view between  the  English  General  Howe,  and  an  American 
committee,  composed  of  Adams,  Franklin  and  Rutledge,  after 
the  battle  of  Long  Island,  but  they  failed  to  reach  any 
satisfactory  agreement. 


NEW  JERSEY  RIVER-SHORE 

The  New  Jersey  side  of  the  Hudson  (Red  Book  Guide  to 
Jersey  City,  Bayonne,  West  Hobo  ken,  Union  Hill,  Weehawken 
and  vicinity;  maps;  st.  car  schedules;  15c.)  contains  many 
towns  in  which  are  the  homes  of  New  York  business  men. 
They  are  reached  by  ferries  (p.  36)  and  tubes  (p.  15). 

I.  Jersey  City 

Jersey  City  (The  Grand  Hotel,  68  Montgomery  st.  Small 
and  shabby.  Near  Penn.  Station.  30  R.  Single  R.,  $1 ;  with 
B.,  $2.  Double  R.,  $1.50;  with  B.,  $2.50)  has  a  population  of 
267,779.  It  is  a  manufacturing  city  with  immense  sugar  re- 
fineries, glass  works,  machine  shops,  foundries.  The  resi- 
dence streets  are  on  higher  land  back  from  the  shore.  The 
Pennsylvania  Railway  terminated  here  before  the  building  of 
its  tunnel  under  the  Hudson.  The  city  is  still  the  terminus 
of  the  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey,  the  Reading,  the  Bal- 
timore and  Ohio,  the  Lehigh  Valley,  the  New  York  and  South- 
western and  the  Erie  railroads.  The  surface  cars  to  the 
various  neighboring  towns,  start  from  the  Pennsylvania  sta- 
tion at  the  foot  of  Montgomery  street. 

History.  On  July  12,  1630,  Michael  Pauw,  Burgomaster  of 
Amsterdam,  obtained  through  the  directors  and  counselors  of  New 
Amsterdam  a  deed  from  the  Indians  to  the  land  now  occupied  by 
Hoboken.  On  November  22,  of  the  same  year,  he  obtained  from  the 
Indians.  Paulus  Hook.  To  these  two  tracts  he  gave  the  name  of 
Pavonia,  from  the  latinized  form  of  his  own  name,  the  Dutch  pauw 
and  the  Latin  pavo  both  signifying  a  peacock.  For  nearly  a  century 
and  a  half  the  region  stagnated.  In  1776  fortifications  were  thrown 
up  by  Americans,  but  were  soon  captured  by  the  British.  On  August 
«9.  ^77^*  Lieut.-Col.  Henry  Lee,  "Light  Horse  Harry,"  with  200  men 
surprised  the  garrison,  secured  159  prisoners  and  retreated  in  safety. 
The  British  subsequently  retook  the  fortress. 

In  1802  the  entire  population  of  what  is  now  Jersey  City  consisted 
of  13  persons,  residing  in  one  house  on  Paulus  Hook.  In  1809  a  town 
was  laid  out  an4  incorporated  as  the  City  of  Jersey.  It  was  rein- 
corporated in  1820  as  Jersey  City,  but  remained  part  of  the  township 
of  Bergen  until  1838.  The  really  old  portion  of  Jersey  City  is  that 
district  on  the  Heights  where  Bergen  took  its  origin,  its  inhabitants 
receiving  a  grant  of  the  land  in  1661,  from  Governor  Stuyvesant.  The 
first  organized  church  and  the  first  school  in  the  State  of  New  Jersey 
were  established  in  Bergen  (p.  457).  This  pioneer  town  was  annexed 
by  Jersey  City  in   1869;   Hudson  the  same  year. 

Jersey  City  is  the  first  large  city  in  the  East  to  institute  a  com- 
mission form  of  government.  The  change  was  made  in  1913.  It  con- 
sists of  five  Commissioners,  one  of  whom  is  chosen  Mayor.  The  Mayor's 
salary  is  $5500,  the  other  four  Commissioners  receiving  $5000.  These 
four  commissioners  are  respectively  known  as  the  Commissioners  of: 
I.  Public  Safety;  2.  Streets  and  Public  Improvement;  3.  Revenue  and 
Finance;  4.  Parks  and  Property. 


454         *  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  tlTY 

The  Hudson  Tubes  (to  Penn.  R.  R.  Station)  land  the 
visitor  on  Exchange  Place,  a  broad  and  busy  block  which, 
with  its  continuation  as  Montgomery  St.,  forms  the  city's 
financial  and  business  centre.  Newark  Ave.  (so  named  be- 
cause it  follows  one  of  the  principal  old  highways  to  Newark) 
branches  off  to  the  N.  W.  two  blocks  further;  it  is  the 
shopping  and  theatre  center  of  Jersey  City,  and  in  its  mile- 
and-a-half  course  to  the  Court  House  on  the  Heights  passes 
in  close  proximity  the  majority  of  points  of  interest  to 
strangers. 

To  N.  and  S.  of  Exchange  PI.,  along  the  river  front,  there  extends 
a  four-block  strip  of  huee  manufacturing  plants,  each  several  city 
squares  in  extent,  which  form  the  chief  source  of  Jersey  City's  pros- 
perity. This  section  is  sordid  and  dirty,  the  pavements  dilapidated 
and  neglected,  and  the  streets  cumbered  with  long  lines  of  freight  cars, 
criss-crossing  on  private  tracks  connecting  with  the  big  railway  yards. 
Nevertheless,  it  is"  worth  while  to  explore  the  neighborhood  briefly,  in 
order  to  get  an  impression  of  the  magnitude  of  the  industries  containe<I 
in  the  long  succession  of  huge  six  and  eight-story  structures,  many  of 
them   connected   block  after  block   by   bridges  that   span   the   streets. 

Two  blocks  from  the  Penn.  R.  R.  Station,  at  the  inter- 
section of  Montgomery  and  Washington  Streets  are  (N.  W. 
cor.)  the  Lincoln  Trust  Company y  (S.  W.  cor.)  the  Union 
Trust  Company,  and  (S.  E.  cor.)  the  Post  Office,  a  two- 
story,  white  granite  structure,  in  modified  Roman-Corinthian 
style,  extending  throughout  the  block  to  York  St.  Continuing 
south  on  Washington  St.  to  Grand  St.  we  reach,  in  the  middle 
of  a  small  park,  a  modest  brown  stone  obelisk,  the  Paulus 
Hook  Monument.     It  is  inscribed  as  follows : 

"Erected  Nov.  2i,  1903,  by  the  Paulus  Hook  Chapter,  National 
Society  of  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution,  to  commemorate 
the  Battle  and  Capture  of  Paulus  Hook  by  Major  Henry  Lee  Aug. 
19.  1779." 

This  neighborhood,  once  the  startinta:  point  of  Jersey  City, 
is  now  the  centre  of  the  Russian  and  Slavonic  colonies,  and 
many  of  the  shop  signs  are  in  Russian,  Bohemian  or  Polish.  ^ 
S.  E.  at  the  cor.  of  Greene  and  Sussex  Sts.  is  the  interesting 
Little  Russian  Greek  Catholic  Church  of  St.  Peter  and  Paul, 
a  quaint  Byzantine  structure  built  in  1901 ;  and  W.  from 
the  monument  on  Grand  St.  is  the  larger  but  less  attractive 
Orthodox  Greek  Church  of  St.  Peter  and  Paul. 

S.  on  Washington  St.  stand  the  huge  brick  refineries  of 
the  American  Sugar  Refining  Company;  and  to  the  E.  be- 
tween Greene  and  Hudson  Sts.  rises  the  eight-story,  concrete 
factory  of  the  Colgate  Soap  Company,  surmounted  by  a  huge 
electric  sign  and  clock  dial,  200  ft.  long  by  40  ft.  high,  which 
makes  a  landmark  that  can  be  seen  for  many  miles. 


JERSEY  CITY  455 

Hitherto  the  Westminster  dial  in  Tendon  held  the  ^eco'-d.  with  a 
diameter  of  22]/^  feet,  and  an  area  of  398  square  feet.  Then  came  the 
City  Hall  clock  tin  Ptiladelphia,  25  feet  across,  with  an  area  of  490. 
then  That  of  the  Metropolitan  Life  Building  in  New  York  (p.  206) 
26V2  feet  in  diameter.  The  Colgate  clock  dwarfs  them  all,  with  a 
diameter  of  38  feeti  and  a  total  area  of  113a  square  feet. 

Within  the  offices  of  the  factory  are  preserved  the  card  on  which 
William  Colgate  advertised,  more  than  a  century  ago,  Soap,  Mould 
and  Dipt  Candles  for  Sale,"  and  one  of  his  first  tax  receipts,  for  the 
year  18^6,  to  the  amount  of  $6.64.  The  grov^th  of  the  modern  business 
is  indicated  by  the  following  figures:  the  firm  now  produces  over  160 
kinds  of  toilet  soap  alone,  600  perfumes,  and  with  the  various  other 
toilet  preparations,  a  total  of  over  2000  different  articles. 

If  we  retrace  our  steps  N.  on  Washington  St.  to  Bay  St. 
we  reach  the  F.  Lorillard  Snuff  and  Tobacco  Company's 
factories  and  warehouses,  covering  at  present  more  than  ten 
acres  (founded  in  1760  but  not  removed  to  Jersey  Gity  unt.l 
many  years  later)  ;  and  adjoining  them  on  the  W.  the  ex- 
tensive organization  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Tea  Com- 
pany. But  for  the  visitor  pressed  for  time,  it  will  be  wiser 
to  omit  this  and  turn  W.  from  the  Paulus  Hook  Monument, 
passing  on  Grand  St.  the  stolid,  red  brick  facade  of  5"^ 
Peter's  (R.  C.)  Church,  founded  in  1831  (present  structure, 
1866),  and  the  adjoining  St.  Pete/s  College  and  St.  Peter's 
Club.  Go  N.  one  block  on  Van  Vorst  St.  to  Gregory  St., 
reaching  the  Academy  of  Music  (burlesque).  One  block 
to  N.  W.  Gregory  St.  crosses  Montgomery  St.  Follow  the 
latter  one  block  to  the  City  Hall,  a  four-story  structure  in 
adapted  Corinthian  style,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $900,000.  The 
materials  are  gray  granite  and  pale  limestone.  At  the  main 
entrance  are  four  lofty  monolithic  columns  of  polished  rose 
granite.  Note  the  bronze  bas-relief  groups  in  the  pediments 
on  the  four  sides,  symbolizing  the  history  and  prosperity  of 
the  city.  In  the  small  open  plaza  in  front  is  the  Soldiers' 
and  Sailors'  Monument,  representing  a  seated  female  figure 
in  bronze,  heroic  size.  She  is  helmeted:  in  her  right  hand 
she  extends  a  laurel  branch ;   in  her  left  is  a  sword. 

The  pedestal  is  inscribed:  "Erected  by  the  People  of  Hudson 
County  to  commemorate  the  Valor  of  the  Soldiers,  Sailors  and  Marines 
of  the  Civil  War." 

Opposite  the  City  Hall,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Mont- 
gomery and  Grove  Sts.  is  the  Majestic  Theatre,  one  of  the 
most  attractive  modern  theatres  in  the  city,  erected  in  1907, 
(John  B.  McElfatrick  and  Son,  Architects).  It  is  temporarily 
used    icg   motion   pictures. 

Continuing  W.  on  Montgomery  St.  to  Jersey  Ave.  (N.  E. 
cor.),  we  reach,  opposite  a  small  park,  the  Public  Library, 
erected  in   1899  at  a  cost  of  $360,000.     It  is  a  memorial  to 


456  RIDER''S  NEW  YORK  CtTY 

Dr.  Leonard  J.  Gordon,  M.D.,  a  portrait  bust  of  whom  stands 
on  the  lower  landing  of  the  main  staircase.     ^ 

If  the  visitor  now  goes  N.  to  Wayne  St.,  then  E.  to  Varick,  he 
will  almost  any  day  become  aware  of  a  penetrating  odor  of  cedar 
wood.  This  is  because  he  is  passing  throuRh  the  neighborhood  of  the 
extensive  Dison  Pencil  Manufacturing  Company.  Including  their 
graphite  lubricating  plant,   they   occupy   approximately   four   city   blocks. 

Railroad  Ave.,  the  next  street  N.  of  Wayne,  contains 
the  four-track  elevated  structure  of  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road. To  the  E.,  three  blocks,  is  the  Grove  St.  Station 
of  the  Hudson  Tunnels.  Turn  N.  on  Grove  St.  to  Newark 
Ave.  The  shopping  centre  is  disappointing;  there  are  no 
large  department  stores  in  the  modern  sense;  and,  unlike 
Brooklyn,  the  branch  stores  of  well  known  New  York  firms 
are  comparatively  few.  On  the  R.  we  pass  Keith's  Theatre 
(vaudeville)  and  the  Bijou  Dream  (photoplays).  The  avenue 
continues  to  become  drearier  and  more  shabby,  until  it  passes 
under  the  raised  tracks  qf  the  Erie  Railroad,  through  a 
wide  stretch  of  freight  yards,  past  the  old  City  Cemetery 
(of  little  interest),  and  begins  to  ascend  the  long  hill  to 
Jersey  City  Heights. 

To  the  R.,  commanding  a  most  advantageous  situation 
on  a  high  terraced  bluff  is  the  modern  Jersey  City  High 
School,  built  at  a  cost  of  $400,000.  The  school  accommo- 
dates about  4€00  pupils. 

On  the  first  landing  of  the  steps  forming  the  southern  approach 
to  the  school  is  a  pedestal  supporting  a  Bronze  Bust  of  Robert  Schu- 
mann, modeled  by  F.  O..Schweitser. 

Continuing  on  Newark  Ave.  we  next  reach  the  *Hudson 
County  Court  House,  at  Newark  and  Baldwin  avenues,  in 
modern  renaissance  style,  of  Maine  granite,  erected  in  1906 
at  a  cost  of  $900,000.  (Hugh  Roberts,  arch.).  Within  is  a 
lofty  central  rotunda  with  three  galleries,  all  richly  finished 
in  white  green-veined  marble.  The  walls  of  the  galleries 
above  the  mezzanine  floor  are  tinted  in  orange-red  and  buff, 
the  general  color  scheme  being  supervised  by  Francis  D. 
Millet. 

Decorations:  Four  winged  figures  of  Fame,  by  E.  H.  Slash  field, 
each  holding  a  shield  with  a  medallion  portrait,  form  pendentives  to  the 
central  dome.  The  ornamental  decoration  of  the  aome  was  carried 
out  under  Blashfield's  supervision,  by  A.  F.  Foringer  and  Vincent 
Aderente. 

The  four  semi-circular  spaces  on  the  walls  of  the  upp<^  gallery 
contain  the  following  mural  paintings  (38  by  18  ft.):  North  wall. 
The  Repulse  of  the  Dutch,  Sept.  13,  1609,  by  F.  D.  Millet,  south  wall. 
Paying  for  the  Land,  Jan.  30,  1658,  by  Millet;  east  wall  (left),  General 
Washington  at   Fort  Lee,  Nov.    16,    1776    (right),  Watching  the   Assault 


JERSEY  CITY  457 

upon  Fort  Washington^  by  C.  Y.  Turner;  west  wall  (left),  First  Pas- 
sage of  the  Steamer  Clermont  (right).  To  Albany  on  the  Morning  ot 
Aug.  17,  1807,  by  Turner, 

Around  the  walls  of  the  gallery  on  the  third  floor  are  twelve 
small  oblong  panels,  by  F.  D.  Millet,  depicting  scenes  in  the  history  of 
Jersey  City.  In  the  vaulting  of  the  corridor  comers  are  eight  small 
lunettes,  by  Kenyan  Cox. 

In  the  Freeholders'  room,  on  the  second  floor,  directly  over  the 
main  entrance,  are  three  large  mural  paintings  by  Howard  Pyle,  cover- 
ing the  greater  part  of  three  walls:  (i)  east  wall.  The  Coming  of  the 
Dutch.  It  shows  the  Half  Moon  floating  peacefully  in  the  North  River, 
while  Indian  canoes  are  approaching,  and  the  ship's  crew  gather 
together  on  deck  to  watch  their  coming.  (2)  South  wall,  A  View  of 
the  Early  Settlement  of  New  Amsterdam.  (3)  West  wall.  The  Coming 
of  the  English,  showing  old  Peter  Stuyycsant  on  a  parapet  of  his  fort, 
watching  with  lowering  brow  the  English  vessels  rounding  to  in  the 
harbor.  North  wall,  on  either  side  of  the  presiding  officer's  chair 
two  figures,  a  Dutch  and  an  English  soldier  standing  guard. 

The  principal  points  of  interest  in  Jersey  City  Heights, 
next  to  the  Court  House,  are  Bergen  Square,  site  of  the 
oldest  permanent  settlement  in  the  state;  and  the  residential 
section  along  the  Hudson  Boulevard.  The  Summit  /hfc.  Sta- 
tion of  the  Hudson  Tunnels  is  a  convenient  starting  point 
and  can  be  reached  from  the  Court  House  in  about  ten 
minutes  walk. 

First,  however,  visit  St.  Joseph's  R.  C.  Church,  S.  E.  cor.  Baldwin 
and  Pavonia  Aves.,  organized  1S57.  The  present  structure,  erected  in 
^7^3*  is  of  blue  traprock  and  Belleville  brownstone.  The  effective 
richness  of  the  *  interior  is  due  to  some  fine  memorial  windows.  The 
twelve  in  the  nave  show  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Saviour,  while  the 
large  one  above  the  altar  represents  the  Crucifixion.      ' 

To  reach  the  Summit  Ave.  station  most  directly,  follow 
Pavonia  Ave.  W.  to  Hudson  Boulevard,  and  turn  S.  across 
the  bridge.  To  the  W.  of  the  station  Bergen  Ave.  (three 
blocks  S.)  brings  us  to  Bergen  Square.  On  the  E.  side 
stands  Public  School  No.  11,  the  lineal  successor  of  the 
earliest  school  in  New  Jersey. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  bronze  memorial  tablet,  showing 
in  bas-relief  the  early  Columbian  Academy,  and  containing,  also  the 
following  inscription: 

"Bers^en  was  founded  in  1660.  The  first  church,  also  used  as  a 
school  building,  in  New  Jersey,  was  erected  at  Tuers  Avenu*  and 
Bergen  Street,  now  known  as  Vroom  Street.  This  site  was  dedicated 
to  the  cause  of  education  in  1668;  on  it  was  erected  the  Second  School 
House  in  1708;  the  Columbian  Academy  in  1790,  the  Columbian 
District  School  No.  i  in  the  town  of  Bergen  in  1858,  afterwards  known 
as  No.   II,  Jersey  City."     The  present  building  was  erected  in   1903. 

In  front  of  the  school,  facing  to  the  S.  W.  is  the  fine 
Bronze  Figure  of  Pef.er  Stuyvesant,  heroic  size,  by  /.  Massey 
Rhind.  It  surmounts  a  massive  exedra,  on  whose  curving 
ends  are  Dutch  frigates  in  bas-relief.  .  On  the  fagadc  above 
the  bench  are  three  inscriptions  recording  the  history  of 
the  founding  of  Bergen. 


458  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Continuing  S.  on  Bergen  Ave.  we  pass  two  quaint  old 
cemeteries,  and  reach,  on  R.,  the  Bergen  Reformed  Church, 
dating  from  1662. 

In  1 77 1  this  church  received  a  charter  from  George  III.  The 
earliest  structure  was  built  of  logs,  and  stood  on  Vrouin  Si.,  E.  ot 
Bcr|ren  Ave.  In  1773  it  was  replaced  by  a  new  building  at  the  comer 
of  Bergen  Ave.  and  Vroom  St.  The  present  edifice  dates  from  1842. 
The  portal  stones  (see  inscriptions)  and  many  other  stones  of  the  earlier 
building  are  incorporated  in  the  present  one. 

At  the  S^  E.  cor.  of  Bergen  Ave.  and  Church  St.  is  the 
Fourth  Regiment  Armory,  often  used  for  fairs,  balls,  and 
social  gatherings.  Opposite  is  a  quaint  stone  structure  with 
an  ancient  shingled  roof.  A  sign-board  proclaims  it  to  be 
"the  site  of  the  Stuyvesant  Inn,  a  noted  hostelry  in  Colonial 
and  Revolutionary  times."  A  detour  should  now  be  made 
S.  to  the  Hudson  Boulevard,  a  broad  and  winding  avenue 
that  extends  nineteen  miles,  from  Bergen  Point  to  the 
Bergen  County  line,  thus  covering  the  entire  length  of  Hud- 
son County.  It  contains,  within  the  city  limits,  some  of 
the  best  and  newest  apartment  houses  and  private  residences 
in  Jersey  City. 

Following  the  Boulevard  S.  to  Gifford  Ave.,  we  find  a 
broad  parkway  running  W.  to  West  Side  Park,  one  of  a 
series  of  county  parks  (208  acres;  not  yet  completed;  plans 
by  Lowrie  &  Lay  ton.) 

The  one  conspicuous  feature  is  a  bronze  fountain  with  aquatic 
emblems,  in  the  center  of  a  circular  basin  over  150  feet  in  diameter. 

To  the  right  of  entrance  is  the  R.  C.  St.  Ahysius  Church,  whose 
square  open  belfry  is  a  conspicuous  landmark.  The  church  contains 
numerous  memorial  windows. 

II.  Hoboken 

HoBOKEN,  situated  immediately  N.  of  Jersey  City, 
{Meyer's  and  Naegeli's,  opposite  cors.  of  3rd  and  Hudson 
sts.,  same  management.  Small,  quaint,  shabby,  with 
German  atmosphere.  Tables  on  the  sidewalk)  contains  little 
to  interest  the  stranger,  beyond  what  he  can  see  from  the 
ferry-boat:  namely,  the  huge  docks  of  numerous  transatlantic 
steamship  companies  and  the  picturesque  old  Castle  Point, 
home  of  the  famous  Stevens  family,  situated  to  the  N.,  high 
up  on  a  commanding  bluff. 

History:  The  land  occupied  by  the  present  city  formed  part  of  a 
patroonship  granted  to  Michael  Pauw  (see  p.  453")  in  1630.  It  was 
called  by  the  Indians  "Hobocan  Hackingh"  (Land  of  the  Clay  Pipe). 
The  first  house  was  erected  in  16.^8;  but  the  present  city  really  dales 
from    1804,   when   John    Stevens,    "founder   of    Hoboken,"   acquired    the 


HOBOKEN  459 

laud  and  laid  out  a  town.  During  the  first  quarter  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  before  the  Coney  Island  summer  resorts  were  even  dreamed  of, 
::  I'lrge  portion  of  Hoboken,  now  thickly  populated,  was  occv.pied  by 
the  Elysian  Fields,  a  favorite  resort  of  New  Yorkers  in  the  early 
CJreenwich  Village  days,  and  was  especially  noted  as  a  meeting-place  for 
Federal  politicians. 

The  few  points  of  interest  may  be  seen  in  about  half  an 
hour;  from  the  Hudson  Terminal  the  visitor  turns  north  on 
Hudson  St.,  passing  numerous  German  hotels  and  beer  gar- 
dens and  on  the  left  the  German  Club  (which  is  unusual  in 
opening  its  doors  not  only  to  members  but  to  their  families). 
Four  blocks  N.  brings  us  to  Hudson  Park,  containing  a  small 
monument  to  the  soldiers  of  the  Civil  War.  Overlooking 
the  park  on  higher  ground  on  the  N.  side,  is  the  extensive 
group  of  buildings  constituting  the  Stevens  Institute  of 
Technology. 

This  widely  known  institution  was  founded  by  Edwin  A.  Stevens. 
( 1 795-1868),  son  of  John  Stevens,  the  noted  inventor.  He  bequcathea 
to  it  a  block  of  land  and  $650,000.  More  recently,  substantial  endow- 
ments have  been  received,  notably  from  Henry  Morton,  the  Institute's 
first  president,  and  from  Andrew  Carnegie.  The  curriculum  embraces 
a  thorough  training  in  applied  mathematics,  in  the  theory  of  machine 
construction,  mechanical  drawing,  experimental  mechanics,  physics, 
chemistry,  and  applied   electricity. 

"Stevens  Castle,"  the  once  fine  home  of  the  founder,  approached 
by  quaint  gateways,  is  on  the  riverbank,  back  of  the  college  buildings. 

Going  W.  on  5th  St.,  we  come  to  Church  Square  Park, 
containing  an  unpretentious  Firemen's  Monument.  Facing 
the  park  on  the  E.,  is  the  recently  erected  High  School;  on 
the  N.,  is  the  Public  Library;  on  the  W.,  the  (R.  C.)  Church 
of  Our  Lady  of  Grace,  at  the  time  of  its  erection  (1880)  the 
largest  church  in  New  Jersey.  One  block  N.  from  N.  W. 
cor.  of  park  on  Willow  St.,  we  reach  the  picturesque  (Angli- 
can) Holy  Innocents*  Church,  built  and  endowed  by  Mrs.  Ed- 
win M.  Stevens  as  a  memorial  to  her  daughter,  Julia  Augusta, 
who  died  in  Rome  in  1870.  The  church  is  absolutely  free; 
the  music  is  exclusively  Gregorian. 

Returning  E.  to  Washington  St.,  we  reach,  N.  E.  cor.  of 
Seventh  St.,  Trinity  Church  (P.  E.)  erected  in  1S55.  It  con- 
tains a  tablet  begun  by  the  sculptor  Crawford,  and  finished, 
after  his  death,  by  Rudolph  Rogers.  The  ship  which  was 
bringing  this  tablet  from  Italy  was  sunk  off  the  coast  of  Cor- 
sica and  the  tablet  lay  submerged  for  six  months  before  it 
was  recovered. 

To  reach  the  duelling  ground  of  Alexander  Hamilton  and  Aaron 
Burr  at  Weehawken  (11,228  inhab.,  railroad  terminus  of  West  Shore 
and  of  New  York,  Ontario  and  Western  railroads),  take  a  Bergen  sur- 
face car  at  the  Tubes  station  or  on  Washington  St.,  get  off  at  Ilighwood% 


46o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Terrace  and  walk  to  the  right  as  far  as  the  Boulevard.  View  of  Man- 
hattan. The  shore  boulder  on  which  Hamilton  fell  has  been  elaborately 
set  on  masonry  by  the  side  of  the  roadway,  with  a  statue  of  Hamilton. 

Back    from    the    shore    the    sect'ons    are    called:      West    Hoboken, 
Bergen,  Town  of  Union,  West  New  York,  North  Bergen. 

The  shortest  route  to  the  Palisades  from  Manhattan  is  by  Fort  Lee 
ferry  (PI.  XI — A7)  to  Edge  water  taking  the  steep  footpath  up  the 
hill,  or  a  car  marked  Fort  Lee  or  Coytesville.  One  can  get  off  any- 
where after  reaching  the  height  and  reach  the  cliff  ed^e  by  walking 
to  the  right,  down  the  side  streets.  Many  plots  are  privately  owned, 
and  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  retreat  to  the  road  when  walking 
along  the  Palisades.  The  Palisades  can  be  reached  from  Hoboken  by 
a  Union  Hill  car  (ask  for  transfer),  transferring  to  a  Palisades  car. 
The  first  half  of  the  ride  is  tedious.  They  can  be  reached  in  the  same 
way  from  the  duelling  ground  in  Weehawken.  Another  route  from 
Manhattan  is  by  the  42^  st.  ferry  (p.  36),  taking  the  Palisade  car, 
which  passes  through  the  scattered,  modest  suburban  settlements  of 
Woodcliff  Hudson  Heights  and  Grantwood.  Change  cars  at  Palisades 
Junction  for  Leonia,  Englewood,  Tenafiy,  Teaneck,  Bogota,  Hacbensack. 
Maywood,  and  Paterson.  At  Palisades  Junction  is  Palisades  Park 
(admission,  10  c),  with  roller  coasters,  and  other  "stunts,"  started  by 
a  minister  to  provide  harmless  summer  amusement  for  young  people 
in   rivalry  to  the  saloons  and   vicious  dance  halls. 


NEWARK 

Although  not  one  of  the  immediate  environs  of  New  York,  N-cwark 
is  now  so  readily  and  quickly  reached,  and  so  well  repays  the  trouble 
of  a  brief  trip  out  from  the  greater  city,  that  it  has  seemed  appropriate 
to  include  it  within  the  scope  of  the  present  g^ide. 

It  may  be  reached  by  rail  over  the  following  lines;  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.,  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey,  Delaware  and  Lackawanna  R.  R., 
Erie  R.  R.,  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  Fare:  single,  17  cents;  return,  30 
cents.  Also  by  Manhattan  and  Hudson  Tunnels  to  Park  pi.,  Newark. 
The  trip  may  also  be  made  by  trolley  from  Jersey  City:  time,  50 
minutes;  fare,  10  cents.  Cars  start  from  terminus  of  Cortlandt  and 
Desbrosses  st.  ferries. 

Hotels.     *R9bert  Treat  Hotel,   Park  pi.,   facing   Military   Park. 

Restaurants.  Nankin  Garden,  Keeny  Theatre  Building,  Branford 
pi.  Cabaret.  Lunch,  35c.;  dinner,  $1.00.  Kaiserhof  Garden,  233 
Washington  st.  Achtel-Stetter,  842  Broad  st.  Anheuier  Busch  Cajc 
and  Restaurant,  cor.  Market  st.  and  Beaver.  Washington  Restaurant, 
cor.  Broad  st.  and  Washington  pi.  Iffland's  Cafi  and  Restaurant,  187 
Market  st.  Reinhrau  Brewery,  Commercial  Wharf,  near  Penn.  R.  R. 
Music  and  Dancing.  Also  Child's  Restaurants,  194  Market  st.  and 
673   Broad  st. 

Newark,  the  largest  city  in  the  State  of  New  Jersey  and 
fourteenth  largest  in  the  United  States,  is  situated  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  8  m.  W.  of  New  York. 
Latitude  40°  41',  longitude  74°  10'  W,  of  Greenwich.  Area, 
23K  sq.  m. ;  estimated  population  (1916),  405,000.  Greater 
Newark  (within  an  area  of  30  sq.  m.)  700,000. 

Statistics.  Finances:  The  assessed  valuation  of  property 
in  Newark  is  $420,311,342;  the  annual  tax  rate  is  2.28%. 
The  city's  bonded  debt  is  $39,556,200.  Manufactures:  The 
total  capital  invested  in  *  manufacturing,  according  to  the 
United  States  Census  of  1910,  is  $154,233,000,  distributed  in 
252  distinct  lines  of  industry.  The  number  of  operatives 
employed  is  59,995,  and  the  annual  wages  paid  are  upward 
of  $44,000,000.  Churches  and  Institutions:  Newark  has  alto- 
gether 173  churches,  5  orphan  asylums,  12  hospitals  and  59 
charitable  organizations.  Parks:  There  are  20  city  parks 
and  5  county  parks,  with  a  combined  area  of  665  acres. 

History.  Newark  was  settled  in  1666  by  a  party  of 
thirty  pioneers,  who  came  from  Milford,  Conn.,  under  the 
leadership  of  Robert  Treat,  the  latter  having  previously  ne- 
gotiated with  Gov.  Carteret  for  permission  to  settle.  The 
following  years  the  new  colony  was  increased  by  a  second 
company,  which  came  from  Guilford  and  Branford,  as  a 
result  of  religious  dissensions,  ensuing  on  the  then  recent 
consolidation  of  the  New  Haven  and  Connecticut  colonies. 
The  leader  of  this  second  company  was  Jasper  Crane,  one 
of    the   original   settlers    of    New    Haven.     With    the    Bran- 


462  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

fordites  also  came  the  Rev.  Abraham  Pierson,  who  became 
the  spiritual  and  civic  head  of  the  settlement,  although  Treat 
remained  the  active  leader.  Just  before  Minister  Pierson 
died,  in  1668,  the  settlement  was  named  Newark  after  his 
birthplace,  Newark-upon-Trent,  England.  His  son,  the  Rev. 
Abraham  Pierson,  Jr.,  was  later  one  of  the  most  noted 
pastors  of  the  historic  old  First  Presbyterian  Church. 

When  the  settlers  first  landed  Indians  appeared  and  angrily 
demanded  payment  for  the  land.  Treat  negotiated  with  them 
and  finally  purchased  all  the  land  from  the  Passaic  River 
to  the  Orange  Mountains,  in  exchange  for  four  barrels  of 
liquor,  axes,  swords,  kettles  and  other  commodities  worth 
altogether  about  $750.00,  The  government  of  the  settlement 
was  a  strictly  religious  one. 

In  1668  the  first  churuch,  called  "Meeting  House"  by  the 
settlers,  was  built  (p.  477).  The  same  year  Commissioners 
of  Newark  and  Elizabethtown  met  at  "Divident  Hill,"  (near 
the  S.  end  of  Weequahic  Park),  to  fix  the  boundaries  be- 
tween the  two  settlements.  In  1673,  when  New  York  sur- 
rendered to  the  Dutch,  a  transfer  of  allegiance  to  Holland 
was  demanded  of  Newark;  but  the  following  year  New 
Jersey  was  restored  to  England.  In  1748  the  College  of  New 
Jersey,  now  Princeton  College,  founded  the  previous  year 
in  Elizabethtown,  was  transferred  to  Newark,  where  it  re- 
mained for  eight  years,  with  the  Rev.  Aaron  Burr  as*  Presi- 
dent. In  1776  Washington  was  stationed  in  Newark  with 
an  army  of  5000  men  for  five  days.  Subsequently  Newark 
was  occupied  by  the  British,  who  'destroyed  much  property. 
In  1792  what  was  probably  the  first  free  school  in  America 
w^s  opened  in  Newark.  In  1836  Newark  was  incorporated 
as  a  city.  In  191 1  the  Manhattan  and  Hudson  Terminal  line 
to  New  York  was  opened.  In  the  summer  of  1916  the  most 
extensive  and  elaborate  pageant  in  the  city's  history  took  place 
in  honor  of  Newark's  250th  birthday. 

Principal  places  of  interest.  These  may  easily  be  seen  in  a  single 
(lay:  City  Hall,  Essex  County  Court  House,  Public  Library,  New 
Jersey  Historical  Society,  First  Presbyterian  Church  and  Graveyard, 
Prudential  Building,  and  the  various  memorial  statues  in  Washington 
and  Military  Parks. 


NEWARK  463 

1.      Northern    Section:      From    Military    Park    to 

Branch  Brook  Park. 

The  most  convenient  way  to  reach  Newark  from  J^Iew 
York  is  by  the  Hudson  Tubes  (see  p.  461).  The  Park  Place 
Station  lands  the  visitor  at  the  northern  end  of  Military 
Park,  a  long  narrow  triangle  extending  southward  about 
three  city'blocks,  and  bounded  on  the  W.  by  Broad  st.,  one 
of  the  longest  and  finest  of  Newark's  streets,  and  on  the 
N.  and  E.  by  the  L-shaped  Park  Place.  This  park  was  the 
original  Common  and  Training  Ground,  dating  from  the  first 
foundation  of  the  colony.  The  park  contains  the  following 
statues  and  other  memorials :  i.  a  bronze  statue,  heroic  size 
of  Frederick  T.  Frelinghuysen  (1817-1885),  Attorney  General 
of  New  Jersey,  U.  S.  Senator,  and  Secretary  of  State 
(erected,  1904,  by  the  citizens  of  Newark;  Karl  Gerhardt, 
sculptor)  ;  2.  a  life-size  bronze  statue  of  Philip  Kearny. 
Brigadier-General  in  the  Civil  War  and,  commander  of  the 
First  New  Jersey  Brigade,  who  died  in  the  battle  of  Chan- 
tilly,  Sept.  I,  1862  (erected  1880;  Henry  Kirke  Brown,  sculp- 
tor) ;  3.  a  bronze  trophy  howitzer,  from  Morro  Castle,  at  en- 
trance to  Santiago  Harbor,  captured  1898;  4.  a  boulder  with 
a  tablet  in  commemoration  of  Colonel  Peter  Schuyler,  a  New 
Jersey  hero  of  the  French  and  Indian  wars,  and  of  "The 
Jersey  Blues,"  first  uniformed  as  such  by  Captain  Hart,  later 
a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independance  (erected  1916, 
by  the  New  Jersey  group,  Society  of  Founders  and  Patriots)  ; 
5.  a  stone  seat  with  bronze  inscription  recording  the  setting 
aside  of  the  present  park  as  the  town's  Training  Place,  in 
1669.  (erected,  1916,  by  the  Daughters  of  the  Revolution  of 
New  Jersey). 

In  the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  park  stands  the  venerable  old 
Trinity  Church,  being  in  part  the  original  structure  erected 
in  1743-44- 

This,  the  first  Episcopal  church  in  Newark,  was  established  mainly 
through  a  prominent  townsman,  Col.  Josiah  Ogden  (1679-1763),  who 
was  angered  at  having  been  disciplined  by  the  Presbyterian  church 
for  having  taken  in   his   wheat   on   Sunday,   when   a   storm   threatened. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  present  (second)  edifice  was  laid  in  1809. 
Of  the  earlier  building  the  base  is  still  standing,  with  walls  five  feet 
thick.  Also  the  old.  front,  with  Grecian  portico  supported  on  missive 
stone    pillars,    remains    today    as    first    constructed. 

Note  inscription  erected  in  19 14  by  the  New  Jersey  Society  of  the 
Sons  of  the  Revolution:  "Commemorating  the  fact  that  Washington 
and  his  army  passed  beneath  the  shadow  of  this  tower  in  masterly 
retreat,  November,  1776,  across  New  Jersey  to  the  hills  beyond  .the 
Delaware,  where  they  gathered  strength  for  the  blow  struck  at  Trenton 
and  Camden." 


I 


464  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

The  church  contains  a  bronze*  medallion  portrait  of  Phillips  Brooks, 
presented  by  the  sculptor,   William  Clark  Noble,  in   1906. 

Facing  the  park,  at  the  cor.  of  Park  st.  and  Park  Place, 

is  the  American  Insurance  Building,  containing  at  the  entrance 

a  pair  of  bronze  doors,  modeled  by  Andrew  O'Connor,  Jr. 

The  male  figure  on  the  right  door  represents  Fire  Under  Control, — 
here  used  as  a  torch  to  guide  the  footsteps  of  men;  the  female  figure 
on  the  left  upholding  flowers  and  scattering  others,  symbolizes  the 
upspringing  of  new  life  after  the  devastation  by   fire.  • 

In  the  next  block  N.  in  Park  Place,  is  the  new  Robert 
Treat  Hotel  (opened  May,  1916),  Newark's  first  thoroughly 
modern  hotel  (Guilbert  and  Bettelle,  of  Newark,  architects). 

It  is  a  fourteen-story  structure  containing  nearly  300  rooms,  almost 
all  with  baths,  large  dining-rooms,  a  grill  room  and  cafe,  and  on  the 
second  floor  one  of  the  finest  ballrooms  in  the  state. 

Before  continuing  N.  on  Broad  st.  the  tourist  will  econo- 
mize time  by  visiting  a  few  points  of  interest  in  the  imme- 
diate neighborhood.  Directly  across  the  park,  opposite  the 
American  Insurance  Building,  is  West  Park  st. ;  half  way 
down  the  first  block  on  the  N.  side,  at  number  18,  is  the 
New  Jersey  Historical  Society  (marked  above  entrance,  "Free 
Public  Library").     Open  daily,  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

The  New  Jersey  Historical  Society  was  organized  at  Trenton  in 
the  City  Hall,  Feb.  27th,  1845.  The  roll  of  charter  members  was 
closed  on  May  7th  following,  with  a  membership  of  88,  of  whom  26 
were  residents  of  Newark.  Many  of  the  present  members  are  sons 
and  grandsons  of  the  founders. 

The  scope  of  the  society  includes  History,  Biography,  Genealogy 
and  related  branches.  Students  of  local  and  national  history,  gene- 
alogists and  antiquarians  will  find  a  rich  mine  of  documentary  and 
Dublished  material;  Naturally  the  history  of  Newark  has  received 
special  attention. 

The  society's  collection  contains  a  great  variety  of  curios  dating 
from  revolutionary  and  colonial  days :  Among  others,  the  old  colonial 
grants  from  Charles  II  to  James  and  from  James  to  Carteret  and  Lord 
Berkeley;   a  collection  of  portraits,   extending  all  the  way  around  the 

fallery  railing,  and  including  portraits  of  Aaron  Burr  and  of  Captain 
ames    Lawrence;    also    Lawrence's    hat    and    coat;    a    marble    bust    of 
Pauline  Bonaparte,  by  Canova;  a  case  of  rare  auto^p'aph  letteriE;  house-. 
hold   articles,   china,   glass,    silverware,    etc.      A   bright   day   should   be 
chosen,  as  the  light  is  poor. 

Upstairs,  in  the  gallery,  is  the  Howard  W.  Hayes  collection,  pre- 
sented by  Mrs.  Hayes  in  1^05  as  a  memorial  to  her  husband.  Judsc 
Hayes  spent  man^  years  m  collecting  rare  objects  of  art  both  in 
Europe  and  America;  and  while  the  collection  is  small,  it  repays  a 
visit.  It  includes  60  specimens  of  pottery  and  porcelain,  many  of  them 
Chinese  antiques,  pink  peach-blow,  green  peach-blow,  etc.;  2B  bronzes, 
Chinese,  French  and  miscellaneous,  among  them  six  by  Antoine  Louis 
Barye;  a  special  collection  of  books  illustrated  by  ThomasI  Bewick, 
and  works  relating  to  him;  eight  antique  rugs;  and  a  score  of  paint- 
ings. The  latter  include.  No.  %,  Figure  Bathing,  by  lienner;  (10) 
Landscape  hy.  Isabcy;  (16)  Landscape,  by  L'hcrmitte:  (21)  Landscape, 
by  A.  H.  IVyant. 


NEWARK  465 

No.  4  West  Park  st.  was  once  the  residence  of  Marion 
Harland  (Mrs.  Terhune),  and  here  she  wrote  several  of  heV 
novels  (see  p.  480). 

East  of  the  Park  PI.  Station,  two  blocks  down  Centre 
St.,  at  No.  26  Mulberry  St.,  we  reach  the  R.  C.  Church  of 
St.  John,  (1838),  the  oldest  church  of  that  denomination  in 
Newark. 

It  is  a  brown  stone  Gothic  structure,  with  heavy  buttresses  and  a 
square  tower.  In  the  stained  glass  windows  various  saints  are  repre- 
sented. The  high  altar  in  the  sanctuary  is  surmounted  by  a  large 
crucifix  and  contains  figures  of  the  Madonna  and  St.  John. 

A  short  walk  down  Saybrook  Place,  N.  of  the  Park  Place 
Terminal,  brings  the  visitor  to  the  new  Saybrook  Place  Park, 
containing  the  Landing  Place  Monument,  erected  May,  1916, 
and  marking  very  closely  the  Landing  Place  of  the  Founders. 

It  is  a  monolith,  showing  on  the  southern  face  two  founders,  in 
low  relief,  gazing  down  at  a  spring  of  water.  The  opposite  face  will 
later  bear  an  inscription,  with  the  names  of  the  64  signers  of  the 
Fundamental  Agreements.  At  the  top  of  the  monolith,  surrounding  all 
four  sides,  will  be  the  scene  of  the  landing  carved  in  relief. 

Returning  to  Military  Park,  and  continuing  N.  on  Broad 
St.,  we  pass,  just  above  Trinity  church  in  a  small  irregular 
triangle  called  Rector  Park,  a  bronze  statue,  heroic  size, 
of  Monsignor  George  Hobart  Doane,  erected  in  1908,  by  the 
citizens  of  Newark  (William  Clark  Noble,  sculptor). 

George  Hobart  Doane  (i  830-1 908)  was  for  nearly  fifty  years  rector 
of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  and  constantly  devoted  himself  to  the  civic 
betterment  of  the  city. 

Continuing  N.  on  Broad  st,  past  Rector  and  Central  sts., 
we  reach  at  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Broad  and  Fulton  sts.  the  hand- 
some modern  First  Baptist  Peddie  Memorial  Church,  a 
massive  brown  stone  structure,  in  the  romanesque  order,  with 
a  dome-life  roof. 

This  is  by  lineal  descent  the  successor  of  the  First  Baptist  Church 
of  Newark,  organized  1801.  The  present  edifice  was  erected  through 
the  generosity  of  Mr.  T.  B.  Peddie,  a  Newark  merchant  and  one  time 
Mayor  of  the  city,  the  cornerstone  being  laid  in  1888. 

One  block  further  north  is  Washington  Park,  the  second 
of  Newark's  original  public  commons.  Like  Military  Park, 
it  is  a  long,  narrow  triangle,  but  lies  on  the  opposite,  or  west 
side  of  Broad  st.  It  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Washington 
Place,  and  on  the  W.  by  Washington  st. 

At  the  S.  E^  cor.  of  the  park,  on  a  sloping  mound  of  turf, 
stands  a  bronze  statue  of  Washington,  heroic  size,  a  bequest 
of  the  late  Amos  H.  Van  Horn  (/.  Massey  khind,  sculptor). 

Washington  is  represented  standing  by  his  horse,  and  making  his 
farewell  address  to  his  army  at  Rocky  Hill,  N.  J.,  near  Princeton,  in 
1783.     The  statue  was  unveiled  in  1912. 


466  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

To  the  E.  of  the  Washington  statue,  and  facing  Halsey 

St.,  is  a  boulder  with  bronze  tablet,  commemorating  the  site 

of  Newark's  first  Academy  (erected  May,  1916). 

The  inscription  is  as  follows:  "The  first  Academy  in  Newark  was 
erected  near  this  spot  in  1774,  by  the  gifts  of  generous  citizens.  Dedi- 
cated to  learning,  it  found  in  time  of  war  a  new  mission  in  the  cause 
of  liberty,  giving  useful  service  as  a  barracks  and  hospital  for  American 
troops.  On  the  night  of  Jan,  25th,  1780,  it  was  burned  to  the  ground 
by  a  raiding  party  of  British,  who  crossed  from  N*.  Y.  on  the  ice  and 
surprised  the  town.  This  school  was  the  forerunner  of  the  present 
Newark  Academy,  which  erected  its  first  building  in  1792,  at  the  cor. 
of  Broad  and  Academy  sts.  Placed  by  the  trustees,  teachers,  graduates 
and  students  of  Newark  Academy,  June,   191 6." 

Near  the  middle  of  the  park  is  a  bronze  statue,  heroic 
size,  of  the  inventor  Seth  Boyden  (1789-1879).  Erected  1890, 
by  the  citizens  of  Newark  (Karl  Gerhardt,  sculptor). 

The  statue  represents  Boyden  as  a  mechanic,  with  a  leather  apron 
and  with  shirt  sleeves  rolled  up.  He  stands  beside  an  anvil,  holding 
in  his  hand  the  model  of  the  first  locomotive  built  in  New  Jersey. 

Among  Mr.  Boyden's  notable  achievements  were  (18 10)  a  machine 
for  cutting  wrought  iron  nails;  (1813)  a  machine  for  cutting  anrl 
heading  tacks;  (181 6)  a  machine  for  splitting  leather,  which  is  still 
used  in  splitting  bookbinder's  stock;  (1819)  the  first  patent  leather 
ever  manufactured  in  the  United  States;  (1826)  a  process  for  making 
malleable  cast  iron;  (1837)  the  first  locomotive  ever  built  in  New  Jersey. 

North   of   the   Boyden   statue   is   a   bronze   bust   of    Dr.* 
Abraham  Coles,  presented  to  the  city  in  1897,  by  his  son,  Dr. 
J.  Ackerman  Coles  (/.  Q.  A.  Ward,  sculptor). 

Dr.  Coles  was  born  in  1813,  at  Scotch  Plains,  N.  J.  He 
came  to  Newark  in  1836.  devoted  himself  to  the  practice  of 
medicine,  and  was  for  several  years  President  of  the  Medical 
Society  of  New  Jersey.  He  was  also  author  and  translator 
of  numerous  books,  and  is  most  widely  known  for  his  trans- 
lations of  Siabat  Mater  and  Dies  Irae  (p.  474). 

Facing  the  park  on  Washington  PI.,  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of 
Broad  st,  is  the  recently  erected  IVashington  Restaurant. 
The  "Zone  Room,"  in  the  basement,  contains  an  interesting 
frieze. 

To  the  W.,  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Halsey  st.,  is  the  New 
Jersey  Automobile  and  Motor  Club.  Just  opposite,  on  Wash- 
ington St.,  almost  at  the  angle,  is  the  modern  and  well 
equipped  Young  Women's  Christian  Association. 

One  block  S.  of  the  park  on  Washington  %t.,  at  the  S.  W. ' 
cor.  of  Central  ave.  stands  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral   (R.  C), 
established  in  1850. 

St.  Patrick's  is  an  unpretentious  Gothic  structure  of  painted  brick, 
and    externally    quite    uninteresting.       The    interior,    formerly    adornet! 


NEWARK  467 

with  a  number  of  inferior  mural  paintings,  has  been  recently  re- 
decorated in  a  somewhat  ornate,  but  not  unpleasing,  color  scheme  of 
conventional  traceries. 

To  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  is  a  Memorial  Tablet  (erected 
191 2)  to  John  D.  Gilmary  Shea,  "an  eminent  historian  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church  in  America"  (d.  1892). 

The  new  cathedral,  which  is  to  be  called,  not  St.  Patrick's,  but 
the  Cathedral  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  in  course  of  erection  on  the  heights 
E.  of  the  southern  end  of  Branch  Brook  Park,  has  been  at  a  staiuistill 
for  some  fifteen  years,  and  although  work  has  been  recently  resumed, 
it  will  probably  not  be  completed  for  several  years  longer.     (See  p.  47 1-) 

Returning  N.  on  Washington  st.,  we  reach,  at  the  northern 
apex  of  the  park  the  *  Newark  Public  Library,  a  spacious  and 
attractive  structure  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  order,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $350,000. 

Note  above  the  main  portal  a  bronze  sculptured  group,  acquired 
mainly  through  the  efforts  of  Monsignor  Doane.  It  represents  a  Wise 
Man  of  Old  Expounding  to  Youth   {John  Flanagan,  sculptor). 

The  Free  Public  Library  of  Newark  maintains,  in  addi- 
tion to  this  main  building,  eight  branches.  It  contains  at 
present  (19.16)  about  240,000  volumes. 

The  Library  building  is  also  the  temporary  home  of  the 
Newark  Museum  Association  (incorporated  1909)  whose  ex- 
hibits, so  far  as  space  permits,  are  shown  in  the  corridors  and 
upper  floors  of  the  Library. 

The  collections  at  present  include:  i.  A  few  well-chosen  casts  of 
the  world's  best  sculpture,  Assyrian,  Egyptian,  Greek  and  Italian,  A 
number  of  bronze  and  pottery  figures  representing  good  contemporary 
sculpture.  2.  A  collection  of  minerals,  the  gift  of  Dr.  Disbrow.  3. 
A  collection  of  objects  of  Japanese  art,  purchased,  by  the  advice  of 
Sir  Casper  Purdon  Clark,  former  director  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum. 
4.  A  collection  from  Tibet,  gathered  by  Dr.  Alfred  C.  Shelton.  s. 
Sixty  paintings,  constituting  the  nucleus  of  a  picture  collection.  6. 
Six  models  illustrating  the  habitations  of  man,  and  many  objects  illus- 
trating the  industries  of  man.  7.  Cases  showing  the  homes,  the  food 
and  proper  treatment  of  New  Jersey  birds.  8.  Cases  treating  the  study 
of  insects  from  the  standpoint  of  their  relations  to  man.  9.  Several 
cases  of  objects  forming  a  study  of  the  Indians  who.  once  inhabited 
the  site  of  Newark.  10.  The  nucleus  of  a  collection,  showing  materials 
and  processes  of  the  pottery  industry.  11.  A  similar  display  of  fibers 
and  textiles.  12.  The  beginnings  of  an  exhibit  of  fish  similar  to  those 
of  birds  and  insects.  13.  A  collection  of  objects  suitable  for  use  in 
schools  to  aid  in  the  teaching  of  geography,  science  and  history. 

The  Museum  Rooms  are  open  daily  from  12  to  6.30  p.  m., 
and  from  7.30  to  9.30  p.  m. ;  Sundays  and  holidays  from 
2  to  6  p.  m.  and  from  7.30  to  9  p.  m.  (excepting  during  July, 
August  and  September,  when  they  are  closed  in  the  evening). 

The  visitor  enters  directly  the  spacious  square  inner  court,  open  to 
the  roof,  and  surrounded  by  two  arched  galleries  borne  on  twenty-four 
marble  columns.  In  the  lower  corridor  are  a  number  of  bronze  busts, 
reproduced  for  the  most  part  from  marble  antiques,  the  Apollo  Bel- 
vedere,   etc.      Also    a   bust   of    Ekiison    (1904),   and   a   bronze   memorial 


468  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

tablet    to    the    Rev.    Hannibal    Goodwin    (1822-1000),    inventor    of    the 
photograph  film   (e;rected  by  the  Essex  Camera  Club). 

On  the  landing  of  the  central  staircase  and  at  the  top*  are  a 
number  of  small  bronze  fibres  (30  to  36  in.)>  being  reduced  copies  of 
well  known  works  of  American  sculptors,  (i)  Peter  Stuyvesant,  reduced 
copy  of  figure  on  monument  in  Jersey  City,  by  /.  Massey  Rhind;  (2)  The 
Youthful  Franklin,  by  R.  Tait  McKensie  (original  on  campus  of  Ihe 
University  of  Pennsylvania);  (3)  The  McKinley  Group,  by  Charles 
Albert  Lopes  (original  plaster  casie,  metallized,  made  for  group  on  Mc- 
Kinley monument,  Philadelphia) ;  (4)  Robert  Burns,  by  /.  Massev 
Rhind  (original  in  Pittsburgh):  (5)  Abraham  Lincoln,  by  Daniel  C. 
French  (original  in  Lincoln,  Neor.). 

The  main  Reading  Room  is  on  the  second  floor  at  the 
rear  or  W.  side.  Readers  interested  in  local  New  Jersey 
history,  biography,  etc.,  will  find  especially  valuable  the  ex- 
tensive collection  of  newspaper  clippings  which  the  library 
has  diligently  maintained   for  many  years. 

The  Museum's  collection  of  pictures  is  exhibited  around  the  four 
walls  of  the  arcade,  on  the  third  floor.  They  represent,  however,  only 
a  portion  of  the  collection,  and  are  subject  to  frequent  changes.  The 
fourth  floor  contains  the  main  part  of  the  art  and  science  exhibits 
enumerated  above. 

In  the  open  space  confronting  the  Library,  and  known 
as  Library  Plaza,  is  the  newly  erected  Founders'  Monument, 
dedicated  May,  1916.  It  is  placed  in  an  isle  of  safety,  with 
large  electric  lights  in  globes  of  unique  shape. 

Two  inscriptions,  yet  to  be  added,  will  commemorate,  respectively: 
(East  face)  "The  bridging  of  the  rivers  eastward,  and  the  rude  road 
built  across  the  marsh  ....  an  enterprise  of  ptatriotic  citizens,  an 
epoch-making  event";  (West  face)  the  setting  aside  of  the  park  as 
the  town's  market  place:  "Never  has  it  been  put  to  any  use  other  than 
for  the  common  good." 

Opposite  the  Library,  on  the  E.  side  of  Broad  st.,  on  the 

fagade  of  the  Cadillac  Company's  building,  is  a  bronze  tablet 

marking  the  site  of  the  home  of  Joseph  Hedden  (1728-1780), 

called    by    Gov.    Livingston    "the    best    magistrate    in    New 

Jersey." 

The  inscription  records  the  fact  that  on  January  25,  1780,  a  British 
force  crossed  the  Hudson  River  on  the  ice,  invaded  Newark,  and  in 
the  dead  of  night  seized  Hedden,  dragged  him»  scantily  clad,  into  the 
street  and  thence  to  prison  in  New  York.  He  died  shortly  afterwards 
from  exposure.  Erected,  191 6,  by  the  History  Classes  of  the  Barringer 
High  School. 

A  little  to  the  S.,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Broad  and  Lom- 
bardy  sts.,  is  the  Aldine  Apartment  House,  the  former  home, 
of  Noah  Brooks.  It  was  here  that  he  wrote  his  Life  of 
Lincoln,  Boy  Settlers  and  History  of  the  United  States. 

One  block  N.  of  the  Library,  on  Broad  st.  brings  us 
to  Orange  St.,  where  in  the  rear  of  No.  30  Seth  Boyden  once 


NEWARK  469 

had  his  malleable  iron  factories.  His  memory  is  preserved 
in  Boyden  st.  (7th  street  west),  and  in  the  adjacent  Boyden 
Place. 

Two  blocks  N.,  at  the  juncture  of  Broad  and  State  sts., 
is  the  Lackawanna  R.  R.  passenger  station.  At  the  N.  W. 
cor.  of  State  st.  is  the  venerable  House  of  Prayer  and  ad- 
jacent parsonage. 

West  on  State  st,  at  No.  57,  lived  Dr.  Thomas  Dunn 
English  (d.  1902),  remembered  chiefly  for  his  song,  "Ben 
Bolt,**  re-popularized  through  Du  Maurier's  "Trilby." 

Two  blocks  N.  of  State  st.  Belleznlle  avenue  branches  off 
to  the  left.  Here^  at  the  junction,  formerly  stood  the  old 
Ogden  Mansion.  Continue  N.  on  Belleville  ave.  past  Clark 
St.,  to  Gouverneur  st,  then  E.  two  blocks,  in  order  to  pay  a 
visit  to  the  historic  old  Gouverneur  House,  at  the  corner  of 
Gouverneur  st  and  Mt  Pleasant  ave. 

This  house  is  the  Cockloft  Hall  of  Irving's  "Salmagundi."  It 
belonged  to  the  Gouverneur  family  and  descended  to  Gouverneur 
Kemble.  The  latter,  with  Peter  Kemble,  Henry  Brevoort,  Henry  Ogden, 
James  K.  Paulding,  Irving  and  a  few  others,  made  up  the  Nine 
>Vorthie8,  called  by  Irving  "The  Lads  of  Kilkenny."  Shortly  before 
his  death,  Irving  recalled  his  pleasant  memories!  of  the  place,  and  in 
allusion  to  their  bygone  frolics,  asked  Kemble,  "Who  would  have 
thought  we  should  have  lived  to  be  such  respectable  old  gentlemen?" 

Directly  opposite  Cockloft  Hall,  on  Mt.  Pleasant  ave., 
was  the  home  where  Ray  Palmer  (1808-87)  lived  and  died, 
remembered  chiefly  as  author  of  the  familiar  hymn,  "My  Faith 
Looks  Up  To  Thee." 

Returning  to  Belleville  ave.,  and  continuing  N.,  we  reach, 
on  the  E.  side,  facing  Crittenden  st.,  the  Belleville  Avenue 
Congregational  church,  a  simple  cruciform  structure  of  brown 
stone,  in  the  English  Gothic  order,  but  without  tower  or  spire. 

It  is  a  curious^  fact  that,  whereas  the  so-called  Old  First  Presby- 
terian Church  was  for  the  first  fifty  years  of  its  existence  a  Congre- 
gational church,  the  Lafayette  ave>  church,  also  known  as  the  First 
Congregational  Church,  was  originally  Presbyterian.  In  1834  a  com- 
pany of  forty-nine  persons  \tit  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  and 
formed  the  Free  Presbyterian  Church.  Later  it  became  an  independent 
body,  and  in  1851,  under  the  ministry  of  the  Rev.  Edward  Beecher, 
a  brother  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  it  adopted  the  Congregational  polity. 

In  May,  191 6,  a  tablet  was  unveiled  in  this  church  commemorating 
the  fact  that  the  Founders  of  Newark  were  all  members  of  the  Congre- 
gational  faith. 

Diagonally  opposite,  to  the  N.,  is  a  group  of  red  brick 
buildings  comprising  the  Convent  and  Church  of  St.  Michael 
(R.  C).    Continuing  on  Belleville  ave.,  we  pass  at  the  N.  W. 


4/0  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

cor.  of  Kearny  st.,  the  Park  Presbyterian  church,  a  Gothic 
structure  of  brown  stone  with  limestone  trim.  Opposite,  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  avenue,  is  the  extensive  three-story  structure 
of  the  Nczvark  Normal  Training  School,  dating  from  1912. 
Continuing  N.  past  3d  ave.,  Oriental  and  Harvey  sts.,  we 
reach  on  the  R.,  Mt.  Pleasant  Cemetery,  a  somewhat  irregular 
rectangle,  extending  four  blocks  E.  to  a  high  bluff  overlooking 
the  Passaic  River,  and  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  curving  line 
of  Herbert  Place,  which  preserves  the  memory  of  the  brilliant 
and  unhappv  author,  Henry  William  Herbert  (1807-58).  His 
home  was  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  the  cemetery,  a  location  chosen, 
as  he  himself  explained,  "because  the  living  were  more 
distant  and  the  dead  would  not  molest  him." 

Here,  in  a  quaint,  gabled  cottage,  which  he  himself  erected,  he 
wrote  twenty-three  of  his  more  than  one  hundred  books,  some  of  which 
were  published  under  the  name  of  Frank  Forrester.  It  was  here  that 
he  brought  home  the  bride  who  deserted  him  within  three  months,^  and 
whose  final  refusal  to  return  resulted  in  his  suicide.  His  grave  is  in 
the  adjacent  cemetery,  and  is  overgrown  with  ivy  brought  from  the 
seat  of  the  noble  English  family  from  which  he  was  descended.  The 
stone  slab  sums  up  his  life  with  the  single  expressive  word,  "Infeli- 
cissimus."  ^ 

The  cemetery  itself  well  repays  a  visit,  both  on  account 
of  the  graves  of  many  of  Newark's  most  distinguished 
citizens,  and  also  because  of  its  picturesqueness,  and  its 
groves  of  splendid  old  trees.  The  main  entrance  is  on  Belle- 
ville ave.  On  the  L.,  just  within  the  entrance,  stands  a 
triangular  brown  stone  pillar,  in  ornate  Gothic,  erected  to 
commemorate  the  incorporation  of  the  cemetery,  Jan.  24th, 
1844.  The  cemetery  contains  few  mausoleums.  The  largest 
and  most  conspicuous  is  the  Dryden  Mausoleum,  a  large 
square  temple-like  structure  of  white  granite,  with  Ionic 
columns.  It  stands  upon  a  high  knoll  directly  facing  the 
main  entrance.  Behind  this  mausoleum,  a  little  to  the  N.  E.. 
is  the  grave  of  Seth  Boy  den  (1788- 1870).  It  is  marked  by 
a  modeist  shaft  of  dark  gray  stone,  surmounted  by  an  urn. 
His  wife  and  children  lie  beside  him.  On  the  N.  side  of  the 
cemetery,  near  the  N.  W.  cor.  is  the  grave  of  Frederick  T. 
Frelinghuysen  (p.  463).  The  monument  is  a  lofty  shaft 
of  granite,  resting  upon  a  massive  and  ornate  base.  On  the 
extreme  eastern  side,  overlooking  the  bluff,  is  the  grave  of 
Thomas  B.  Peddie,  (1808-1889)  merchant,  one-time  Mayor 
of  Newark  and  member  of  the  45th  U.  S.  Congress.  The 
monument  is  a  sarcophagus  of  dark  granite.  On  the  S.  side, 
almost  opposite  the  end  of  Broad  st.,  is  the  grave  of  Theodore 
Runyon,  at  the  time  of  his  death  in  Berlin  the  first  American 
Ambassador  to  Germany. 


NEWARK  471 

Proceeding  W.  from  Belleville  ave.  along  2(1  avc.,  past 
Wakeman  and  Summer  aves.,  we  turn  N.  up  Mt.  Prospect 
Place,  which  one  block  N.  leads  into  Mt.  Prospect  ave.  One 
block  N.  we  pass  on  left  Abington  Ave.,  W.  on  which,  at 
No.  58,  was  for  over  a  quarter  of  a  century  the  home  of  the 
Ward  family,  including  the  late  Dr  William  Hayes  Ward, 
the  veteran  editor  of  the  Independent,  his  gifted  sister, 
Susan  Hayes  Ward,  and  also  Herbert  D.  Ward,  up  to  the  time 
of  his'  marriage  to  Elizabeth  Stuart  Phelps. 

Continue  four  blocks  N.  to  Elwood  ave.,  then  two  blocks 
E.  to  Summer  ave.,  reaching  Phillips  Park. 

This  park  is  a  portion  of  an  old  camping  ground  twice  used  by 
the  American  forces  during  the  Revolution — first  in  1776,  when  Wash- 
ington and  his  staff  spent  three  or  four  days  in  Newark!  during  the 
retreat  to  Trenton,  and  while  part  of  his  army  went  on  to  Springfield 
to  camp,  one  detachment  encamped  here;  and.  secondly,  in  1779,  CJen. 
Anthony  Wayne  encamped  on  this  ground  for  some  time,  and  held 
many  conferences  with  his  officers  in  the  old  Phillips  farmhouse.  The 
triangular  plot  forming  the  present  park  was  presented  to  Newark  by 
John   Morris   Phillips,   a   descendant   of   this   family. 

In  May,  1916,  a  large  boulder,  bearing  a  bronze  tablet  as  a 
memorial  to  Gen.  Washington,  Gen.  Wayne  and  the  soldiers  who 
fought  under  them,  was  placed  here  by  the  Nova  Caesarea  Chapter  of 
the  Daughters  of  the  Revolution. 

From  this  point,  the  northern  end  of  Branch  Brook  Park 
lies  about  2-5  of  a  mile  to  the  W.  If  the  visitor  has  the 
requisite  time  and  energy,  a  walk  down  the  length  of  this 
park,  with  its  numerous  picturesque  lakes  and  bridges,  is 
well  worth  while.  It  involves,  however,  a  walk  of  about 
two  miles. 

Branch  Brook  Park  is  part  of  the  extensive  park  system  of  Essex 
county,  which  already  has  a  total  acreage  of  3233  acres.  The  system 
is  under  control  of  a  Park  Commission,  with  authority  to  locate  parks 
througfhout  the  entire  county,  unlimited  by  the  confines  of  single 
municipalities.  In  point  of  fact,  four  of  the  Essex  county  parks  com- 
prise portions  of  several  municipalities.  Branch  Brook  Park  comprises 
a  tract  of  280  acres,  lying  in  what  was  formerly  a  low  and  swampy 
valley,  between  two  high  ridges,  where  the  surface  water  collected  in 
stagnant  pools.  The  whole  locality  was  a  breeding  ground  of  frogs 
and  mosquitoes,  and  was  locally  known  as  Old  Blue  Jay  Swamp. 
Branch  Brook  Park  has  completely  changed  all  this.  In  place  of  stag- 
nant pools,  is  a  brook  of  pure  running  water,  widening  into  occasional 
pools  and  ending  in  two  large  lakes,  with  a  combined  area  of  23  acres. 

Near  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  the  park,  and  dominating  the  land- 
scape from  the  highest  ground  in  the  neighborhood,  stands 
the  imposing,  but  as  yet  unfinished  structure  of  the  new 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Sacred  Heart  (see  p.  467). 
Nearby,  bounded  by  6th  ave.,  Parker  and  Bridge  sts.,  is  the 
Barring er  High  School. 


»L 


472  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

II.     Central  Section:    From  Military  Park  to  the 
"Four  Comers** ;  Market  Street. 

Broad  street,  south  of  Military  Park,  is  Newark's  business 
centre,  containing  the  finest  of  her  modern  office  buildings. 
Note  especially  the  new  Public  Service  Building  near  Park  st., 
the  United  States  Government  Building,  cor.  of  Academy  st., 
containing  the  Post  Office  and  United  States  Custom  offices, 
and  just  S.  of  it  the  Prudential  Insurance  Company,  housed 
in  a  group  of  buildings,  occupying  a  large  part  of  three  city 
blocks,  two  of  them  lying  between  Broad  and  Halsey  sts., 
on  the  N.  and  S.  side  of  Bank  st.,  and  the  third  in  the  rear 
at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Bank  and  Halsey  sts.  The  four  build- 
ings comprising  the  group,  and  erected  successively  (the  latest 
in  191 1 )  were  all  designed  by  George  B.  Post,  and  conse- 
quently show  a  general  uniformity  of  construction.  The 
style  is  in  the  main  classic,  with  Romanesque  detail,  and  a 
blending  of  flamboyant  French  Gothic,  all  skillfully  harmon- 
ized. 

The  two  lions  supporting  shields,  over  the  Broad  st.  entrance  to 
the  main  building,  arc  carved  in  brown  Indiana  limestone,  from  designs 
l)y   Karl  Bitter.     The   other  external  stone  carvings,   including  the  gar- 

f[oyl3fl  and  the   drinking  fountain  at  the   Bank   st.   corner,   are   also   of 
imestone,   and    were    executed    by    George   Brown    &   Co.,    of   Newark, 
from  drawings  by  George  P.  Post  6*  Sons. 

The  buildings  contain  some  admirable  mural  jointings  and  other 
features  of  artistic  interest.  For  permission  to  visit  them,  apply  at 
the   superintendent's  office  on  third  floor  of  main   building. 

The  Prudential  Insurance  Company  was  founded  in  187^  by  the 
Hon.  John  F.  Dryden  (later  U.  S.  Senator),  who  was  the  pioneer  in 
America  in  the  field  of  popular  insurance  at  easy  rates  of  payment, 
thus  placing  insurance  within  reach  of  the  masses.  The  com- 
pany estimates  that  at  the  present  time  more  than  thirty  million  per 
sons  are  protected  by  its  policies.  There  are  no  branch  offices,  the 
vast  army  of  agents  reporting  directly  to  the  headquartexs  in  Newark 
The  office  staff  comprises  more  than  3500  employees. 

On  the  lower  floor  of  the  main  building  is  a  small  library  for  the 
use  of  the  employees.  It  is  affiliated  with  the  Newark  Public  Library, 
to  the  extent  that  any  book  contained  in  the  latter  may  be  borrowed 
through  the  Prudential,  as  though  it  were  a  branch  library.  Its  rooms, 
situated  in  the  S.  W.  cor.,  are  worth  a  visit,  for  they  contain  models, 
not  only  of  the  present  buildings,  but  also  of  all  their  predecessors, 
from  the  original  humble  beginning  in  the  basement  of  a  one-story 
shop.  Adjacent  to  the  library,  in  the  rotunda,  is  a  full-length  bronze 
statue,  heroic  size,  of  John  Fairfax  Dryden,  mounted  on  a  pedestal  of 
pink  New  Jersey  granite,  presented  in  191 3  as  a  "tribute  of  esteem 
and  affection  from  the  Field  and  Home  Office  Force."  {Karl  Bitter, 
sculptor.) 

The  chief  point  of  interest  is  the  Board  Room,  on  the  tenth  floor. 
From  floor  to  ceiling,  the  walls  arc  lined  with  Caen  stone,  the  entire 
surface  of  which  is  covered  with  delicate  hand  carving,  no  two  panels 
being  alike.  The  designs  are  ortlined  with  traceries  in  gold.  On  the 
ceiling   is  a  large   central   panel   by   Edwin    H.   Blaskfield,   showing   how 


NEWARk  473 


Increase,  Foresight  and  Constancy,  Thrift,  Order  and  Temperance- 
lead  the  People  to  Security.  Security,  the  central  figure,  holds  in  one- 
hand  a  shield,  emblem  of  protection,  and  in  the  other  an  hour-glass, 
a  reminder  that  our  days  are  numbered. 

Around  the  walls  are  eight  lunettes.  At  the  south  or  window  end 
Prudence,  with  her  shield,  shelters  the  Family,  while  to  left  and  righT 
respectively  Commerce  and  the  Growth  of  Cities  are  symbolized  by 
men  loading  a  ship  and  by  architects  in  Romanesque  costume.  (Artist, 
Siddons  Alowbray).  At  north  end  are  represented  Intellectual  and 
Physical  Force,  the  former  pictured  with'  the  features  of  Erasmrn 
(a  typical  scholar),  the  latter  as  a  young  Roman.  To  right  and  lefi 
are  ngures  representing  the  Arts  and  Ind,ustries.  On  the  East  or 
main  doorway  side  are  three  lunettes:  Youth  and  Age,  by  Mowbray: 
Prudence  binding  Fortune,  by  B  lash  field;  and  between  them  a  panel 
with  an  inscription  from  one  of  Senator  Dryden's  speeches:  "A  wonder- 
ful Business;  a  Business  with  a  Noble  History;  a  Business  with  a 
Lofty  Aim;  a  Business  with  a  Magnificent  Purpose;  a  Business  with 
Splendid   Results.*' 

On  the  opposite  side:  Industry  (a  mother  showing  her  child  a 
bee-hive),  by  Mowbray;  Thrift  driving  the  Wolf  from  the  Door,  by 
Blashfield;  and  between  them  The  Rock  of  Gibraltar,  by  Mowbray.  In 
the  vaulting  and  pendentives  are  sixteen  medallions  and  rectanrVs. 
painted  in  cameo,  white  on  blue  iBlashfield  and  Mowbray).  The 
general  color  scheme,  the  dominant  tones  of  which  are  gold  and  red, 
was  supervised  by  Elmer  E.  Garnsey. 

The    visitor    should    not    fail    to    note    the    four    lofty    bronze    ran 
delabra,   on    either    side   of   the    mantel    and    the   entrance    door.      They 
are  of  Italian  workmanship,  the  originals  from  which  they  were  copied 
being  in  the  Church  of  San  Giorgio,  Venice. 

The  room  contains  four  portraits:     Hon.   John   F.   Dryden,    (1839 
1911),   by  Madraso;  Dr.   Leslie   Ward,   Medical   Director    (1844-19 10), 
by   Madrazo;    Edgar    B.    Ward,    Second    Vice    President,    by    Madrono; 
Noah   F.   Blanchard,  Vice   President,   by   Carroll  Beckwith. 

Adjoining  the  Board  Room  are  two  Committee  Rooms,  in  French 
Renaissance  style,  with  hi^h  wainscoting,  elaborately  carved  in  panels 
and  pilasters,  the  wood  being  imported  from  the  Black   Forest. 

Before  leaving  the  main  buildings*  note  the  front^  staircase  of 
pale  yellow  marble,  richly  wrought  in  delicate^  lace-like  traceries. 
On  the  first  landing  are  three  stained-glass  windows  representing 
Prudence,  Protection  and   Strength. 

Across  Bank  street,  in  the  new  building,  is  the  Assembly  Room, 
the  chief-  purpose  of  which  was  to  afford  a  gathering  place  in  which 
the  hundreds  of  traveling  agents  could  receive  systematic  instruction 
regarding  their  work.  Its  chief  features  are  a  ceiling  of  richly  carved 
and  gilded  work;  an  ornamental  screen  in  the  rear  of  the  pre- 
siding officer's  platform  suggestive  of  the  reredos  of  a  cathedral,  and 
two  Targe  lunettes,   by  Edward  Simmons. 

I.  (North  end)  Insurance,  symbolized  by  a  husbandman  planting 
a  fruit  tree;  beside  him  are  (Teres  with  her  sickle,  and  Hope  with  a 
branch  of  blossoms;  2.  (south  end)  Benefits,  typified  by  Abundance,  a 
female  figure  be.-iring  a  Jlorn-of-Plenty,  ministering  to  a  Widow  and 
her  Children. 

Broad  st.  now  crosses  Market  st.  at  right  angles,  form- 
ing the  historic  "Four  Corners,"  dating  back  to  the  earliest 
days  of  the  settlement.    Here  to-day  is  the  heart  of  the  shop- 


y 


i 


474  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ping  district,  and  here  also  are  clustered  a  majority  of  the 
theatres  and  photoplay  houses. 

These  four  corners  have  numerous  historic  and  literary 
associations.  At  the  N.  E.  cor.  stands  the  new  sixteen-storv 
Firemen's  Insurance  Building.  Note  above  the  entrance 
"Fireman  No.  2/*  a  life-size  statue  of  a  fire  chief  in  uniform, 
trumpet  in  hand  (erected  1910;  Paul  JViehle,  sculptor). 
"Fireman  No.  i"  was  a  wooden  figure  which  for  32  years 
stood  on  the  roof  of  the  old  building.  On  the  S.,  or  Market 
St.  facade  of  the  same  building  is  a  bronze  tablet  erected  by 
the  New  Jersey  Branch  of  the  Sons  of  the  Revolution,  mark- 
ing the  route  taken  by  Washington  on  his  way  from  Phila- 
delphia to  Cambridge. 

Opposite  on  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Broad  and  Market  sts.,  is 
the  Kinney  Building,  occupying  the  site  of  the  Newark  Daily 
Advertiser  (now  the  Newark  Evening  Star),  long  owned 
and  edited  by  William  Burnet  Kinney,  who  on  his  death  in 
1881  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  the  late  Thomas  T.  Kinney. 
The  Daily  Advertiser  was  edited  for  a  time  by  Noah  Brooks, 
and  its  staff  included  at  various  times,  the  Gilders  and  Stephen 
Crane,  the  novelist.  On  the  opposite  corner  was  the  office  of 
the  Morning  Register,  edited  by  Richard  Watson  Gilder, 
and  later  by  Dr.  English. 

The  Kinney  Building  has  on  its  Broad  st.  fagade  a 
bronze  memorial  tablet,  marking  the  site  of  the  home  of 
Robert  Treat,  "the  dominant  spirit  in  the  settlement  of 
Newark,  1666." 

Robert  Treat,  as  already  stated  (p.  461),  was  the  founder  of  Newark. 
In  1 66 1  he  headed  a  committer  from  Milford  that  went  to  New  Amster- 
dam to  negotiate  for  a  settlement  under  Dutch  rule.*  In  1665  he 
selected  the  site  of  Newark.  In  1666  he  brought  the  Milford  settlers 
up  the  Passaic  River  and  arranged  terms  of  purchase  with  the  Indians. 
It  was  Treat  who  planned  the  new  town  and  laid  out  Broad  and  Market 
sts.  He  remained  the  active  leader  of  the  colony  until  1672,  when  he 
returned  to  Connecticut.     He  died  July  12,  1710,  at  the  age  of  84  years. 

East  on  Market  st.  are  no.  193,  the  Newark  Theatre 
and  No.  211,  the  Lyric  Theatre.  At  No.  222  formerly  lived 
Dr.  Abraham  Coles   (p.  466). 

One  block  to  the  W.  of  Broad  st.,  occupying  the  greater 
part  of  the  square  bounded  by  Market,  Halsey,  Bank  and 
Washington  sts.,  is  Bamberger's,  Newark's  largest  depart- 
ment store.  Opposite,  on  the  S.  side  of  Market  st.,  are,  at 
No.  136  Fox's  Carlton  Theatre,  and  No.  120  The  Strand 
Theatre,  both  motion  picture  houses,  and  at  No.  116  is 
Proctor  s  Theatre,  a  vaudeville  house  at  popular  prices. 


NEWARK  475 

This  latter  theatre  occupies  the  site  of  the  Old  Park  House,  which 
for  years  was  the  home  of  the  poet  Elizabeth  Clemantine  Kinney,  one 
of  the  most  gifted  women  of  Newark.  She  was  the  sister  of  William 
E.  Dodge,  the  philanthropist;  and  by  her  first  marriage  was  the  mother 
of  the-  late  Edmund  Clarence  Stedman,  the  banker-poet.  Her  second 
husband  was  William  Burnet  Kinney,  for  many  years  editor  and 
proprietor  of  the  Newark  Daily  Advertiser  (now  the  Newark  Evening 
Star).  When,  in  1851,  Mr.  Kinney  was  appointed  United  States  Min- 
ister to  Sardinia,  she  accompanied  him  to  the  court  of  Victor  Emanuel, 
and  later  lived  for  a  time  in  Florence,  frequenting  the  literary  circle 
that  included  the  Brownings,  the  Tennysons  and  the  sculptor  Powers. 
Her  best  efforts  in  prose  and  verse  being  to  that  period. 

Continuing  west,  we  reach  (two  blocks),  at  the  juncture 
of  Market  st.  with  Springfield  ave — 

**The  Essex  County  Court  House,  a  modern  renaissance 
structure,  erected  in  1906-8,  from  plans  by  Cass  Gilbert.  It 
stands  on  rising  ground,  facing  east  towards  the  apex  of  a 
long  narrow  trianjgle.  A  series  of  broad,  low  steps,  in  huge 
semi-circles,  lends  dignity  and  height  to  the  approach.  To 
the  right,  at  the  foot  of  these  steps,  is  a  memorial  statue  in 
t)ronze  of  Lincoln,  seated,  by  Gutzon  B  or  glum. 

Two  seated  figures  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  by  Andrew  O'Connor. 
flank  the  main  entrance:  North,  Power;  south.  Truth.  On  sides  of 
granite  bases  are  four  reliefs  in  bronze,  "When  Law  Ends  Tyranny 
Begins." 

The  exterior  of  the  Court  House  is  of  South  De^on  marble,  on 
a  base  of  Vermont  granite.  The  main  fagade  is  adorned  with  nine 
sculptures,  heroic  size,  by  Piccirilli  Brothers,  from  models  by  O  Connor. 
(i)  At  the  apex,  The  Power  of  the  Law.  Along  the  entablature,  from 
left  to  right:  (2)  (Light)  Reason  of  the  Law;  (3)  (Maternity)  Shelter 
of  the  Law;  (4)  (Thais)  Protection  of  the  Law;  (5)  (C^in)  Assault 
upon  the  Law;  (6)  (Adam)  Disobedience  of  the  Law;  (7)  (Eve)  Vic- 
tim of  the  Law;  (8)  (Wisdom)  Statutory  Law;  (9)  (Learning)  Author- 
ity of  the  Law.     Cost  of  sculptures  and  bronzes,  $56,500. 

The  interior  (open  daily)  deserves  a  detailed  visit,  being  not  only 
architecturally  interesting  but  literally  a  museum  of  American  mural 
paintings.  The  central  rotunda,  open  from  the  ground  floor  to  the 
roof,  receives  its  light  through  the  stained  glass  of  the  spacious  dome, 
which  is  flanked  by  smaller  domes  to  north  and  south.  Encircling  the 
central  glass  sky-light  is  a  narrow  band  formed  of  the  Twelve  Signs  of 
the  Zodiac.  Below  these  are  f6ur  pendentives  containing  symbolic 
female  figures,  by  E.  Blashfield:  (i)  Wisdom  Which  Informs  the  Law 
(symbol,  the  unraveling  of  a  skein);  (2)  Knowledge  Which  Bases  the 
Law  (symbol,  searching  the  records  for  precedents);  (3)  Power  Which 
Supports  the  Law  (symbol,  a  sword  and  rods);  (4)  Mercy  Which 
Tempers   the   Law    (symbol,    casting  the  vote  of  Mercy  into  the  urn). 

South  dome:  Four  small  pendentives,  (i)  Zeus,  (2)  Odin,  (3) 
Minerva,  (4)  Moses.  North  dome,  four  small  pendentives,  (i)  Druid, 
(2)   Isis,   (3)    Siva,   (4)    Buddha. 

In  the  court  rooms  on  the  3d  floor:  (i)  Supreme  Court  (east  front); 
The  Beneficence  of  the  Law,  by.  Kenyon  Cox,  "Under  the  Rule  of  Law, 
Inspireil  by  Justice,  Peace  and  Prosperitv  Abide."  (2)  Circuit  Court 
rooni  A  vsouth) :  The  Landing  of  the  New  Englanders  (on  the  banks  ot 
the  Passaic  River,  May  17,  1666),  by  C.   Y.  Turner;  (3)  Motions  Court 


I 


476  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

room  (west) :  Diogenes  in  Quest  of  an  Honest  Man,  by  JVill  H.  Low; 
U)  Circuit  Court  room  B  (north):  The  State  Supported  by  Liberty 
and  Justice,  by  George  W.  Maynard. 

Second  floor:  (i)  Freeholders*  room,  The  Landing  of  Carteret,  by 
Howard  Pyle;  (2)  Grahd  Jury  room,  The  Foreman  of  the  Grand  Jury 
Rebuking  the  Chief  Justice  of  New  Jersey,  in  i774.  by  Frank  D.  Millet; 
(3)  Criminal  Court  room,  The  Power  and  Beneficence  of  the  Law,  by 
H.   O.    Walker.      Combined   cost  of  mural  paintings,  $41,000. 

Opposite  the  Court  House,  N.  E.  corner  of  Market  and 
High  sts.,  is  the  attractive  P.  E.  Church  of  St.  Paul. 

Two  blocks  south  of  the  Court  House,  on  High  St.,  is 
the  interesting  old  St.  Mary's  C/iwrc A.  (German  R.  C),  built 
in  1854.  The  interior  is  highly  decorated  with  mural  paint- 
ings and  memorial  windows. 

Over  the  altar  are  figures  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  St.  Boniface  and 
St.  Benedict;  below  are  the  four  evangelists.  The  nave  is  supported 
upon  rows  of  arches,  resting  on  massive  pillars.  ^  Above  these  arches 
are  paintings  of  the  principal  scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Saviour. 
Above  the  arch  of  the  sanctuary  is  The  Coronation  of  the  Virgin. 
Above  a  side  altar  at  the  N.  E.  corner,  is  preserved  under  glass  the 
mutilated  gilded  figure  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  which  together  with 
the  earlier  St,  Mary's  Church,  on  this  same  site,  was  destroyed  by  *a 
band   of   rioting   Orangemen   from    New   York,    Sept.    5th,    1854. 

Side  Trip.     If  we  turn  W.  on   13th  ave.,  starting  from 

behind   the   courthouse,   we   reach,   about   a  mile   distant,   at 

the  N.  W.  cor.  of  9th  st.  the  Monastery  of  St,  Dominic,  a 

massive  three-story  structure  built  of  Newark  brownstone. 

It  was  the  first  cloistered  monastery  of  the  nuns  of  this  order 
built  in  the  United  States,  and  was  established  in  1880  by  Archbisliop 
Corrigan.  It  was  planned  by  Jeremiah  O'Rourke,  after  the  old  con- 
vents of  Europe,  it  occupies  a  quadrangle  150  ft.  square,  and  encloses 
a  central  court  66  ft.  square,  surrounded  by  a  cloister  9  ft.  wide.  In 
the  centre  of  the  court,  as  in  all  Dominican  monasteries,  there  is  a 
well,  60  ft.  deep.     This  is  the  strictest  order  in  the  United  States. 

III.     Southern  Section :  From  "The  Four  Comers" 

to  Weequahic  Park 

Continuing  south  on  Broad  St.,  we  reach  (one  block)  on 
the  left  or  E.  side,  the  famous  *Old  First  Church,  commonly  • 
known  as  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  dating  from  1668. 

The  founders  of  this,  the  oldest  church  in  Newark,  were 
all  strict  New  England  Congregationalists,  and  the  church 
itself  was  Congregational  for  at  least  the  first  fifty  years 
of  its  existence. 

The  plot  of  ground  occupied  by  the  church  and  surrounding 
graveyard  is  literally  the  spot  where- Newark  began.  For  many  years 
the  members  of  its  congregation  constituted  the  entire  population,  and 
Its  pastor  was  the  most  important  official.  Indeed,  the  church  so 
completely   dominated    the   government    of   the    new    settlement   that    no 


NEWARK  477 

man  who  was  not  a  church  member  had  any  voice  in  the  colony's 
government.  The  first  church  building,  called  "Meeting  House*' 
by  the  settlers,  was  built  in  1668.  It  was  37  feet  wide, 
36  feet  long,  and  fronted  on  Broad  st.  a  little  north  of  Bran- 
ford  Place.  In  1708  a  second  church  was  erected,  which  stood 
a  little  further  south.  The  present  building  on  the  other  side  of 
Broad  St.,  was  begun  in  1787,  and  opened  for  public  worship  in  1791- 
On  its  completion,  the  old  second  church  was  converted  into  a  court 
house,  for  which  purpose  it  was  used  until  i8o;r.  The  present  edifice 
is  the  third  church  (enlarged).  The  early  ministers  were  many  of 
them  men  of  note.  Among  them  were  Abraham  Pierson,  later  the  first 
President  of  Yale  College;  the  Rev.  Aaron  Burr,  father  of  the  statesman 
of  that  name,  an^  later  the  founder  of  Princeton  College;  Dr.  Edward 
Dorr  Griffin,  afterwards  president  of  Williams  College;  and  Dr.  James 
Richards,  President  of  Auburn  Theological  Seminary. 

Almost  opposite  the  present  First  Church,  just  N.  of 
Branford  PI.,  is  the  site  of  the  earliest  First  Church  and 
burial  "^round,  which  originally  comprised  three  acres.  Two 
blocks  W.,  on  Branford  PL,  an  isle  of  safety  has  been  estab- 
lished, which  is  to  contain  a  monument,  soon  to  be  put  in 
place,  commemorating  in  the  inscriptions  on  its  four  sides 
certain   memorable    events    in    Newark's    early    history. 

The  inscription  on  the  east  face  will  commemorate  the  fact  that 
"The  first  church  and  training  place  were  located  just  below  this  spot, 
beginning  at  Broad  street.  The  founders  one  by  one  were  laid  to 
rest  behind  the  church,  from  whence  their  bones  were  removed  to 
Fairmount  Cemetery  in  1887-89."  The  south  face  commemorates  the 
Second  Church,  erected  just  S.  of  Branford  PI.,  and  later  used  as 
a  courthouse:  "long  a  rallying  place  for  the  people  in  times  of  danger;" 
the  north  face  will  record  the  fact  that  this  Second  Church  Building 
was  the  scene  of  the  first  commencement  of  Princeton  College,  held  in 
1748;  and  the  west  face  inscription  commemorates  the  westward  spread 
of  the  colony,  which  made  Newark  the  "Mother  of  Towns." 

S.  at  No.  840  is  the  Passenger  Station  of  the  New  Jer- 
sey Central  Railway.  Further  S.,  No.  870,  is  the  Kremlin 
Building,  marking  the  site  of  the  historic  Ailing  Homestead. 

A  century  ago  or  more,  this  old  homestead  was  a  "favorite  gather- 
ing place '  for  distinguished  foreigners,  living  in  exile  during  the  tur- 
bulent years  of  the  French  revolution  and  Napoleonic  period.  Among 
others  were  Talleyrand,  the  Bishop  of  Autun  and  Chateaubriand. 

A  little  further  S.  on  the  right  hand  side  of  Broad  st., 
three  doors  below  William  st.,  is  a  business  building  marking 
the  site  of  the  old  First  Presbyterian  Parsonage,  the  birth- 
place of  Aaron  Burr,  the  statesman.  Diagonally  opposite 
stands  the  new  City  Hall,  a  massive  structure  of  gray  granite, 
erected  in  1903-4,  at  a  cost  of  $1,250,000  {John  H.  and  Wilson 
C.  Ely,  architects). 

■ 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Broad  and  Walnut  sts.  stands  Grace 
Episcopal  Church,  a  brown   stone  edifice,   in  thirteenth  cen- 


^ 


V 


478  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

tury    English    Gothic,    built    in    1847    at    a    cost    of    $34»758. 
Richard  Upjohn,  architect. 

The  church  is  cruciform  in  plan;  the  tower  is  square,  surmounted 
by  an  octagonal  spire.  Part  of  the  ground  occupied  was  the  site  of 
Newark's   first    Hotel. 

Turn  E.  on  Walnut  st.  to  Mulberry,  then  S.  to  Mulberry 
Pi,  No.  14,  the  birthplace  of  Stephen  Crane,  author  of  "The 
Red  Badge  of  Courage,"  and  son  of  Rev.  J.  Townley  Crane. 

At  979  Broad  st.,  cor.  of  Marshall,  is  the  M.  E.  Church 
of  St.  Paul,  organized  1853.  The  present  edifice  was  erected 
the  following  year,  at  a  cost  of  $78,000.  It  is  a  notable 
structure  of  brown  stone,  in  the  perpendicular  Gothic  type 
of  architecture,  having  two  mineret-towers  upon  its  front. 

The  side  door  is  usually  open;  if  closed,  the  sexton  may  be 
found  in  the  adjoining  house  to  the  west. 

Back  of  the  pulpit,  in  the  space  between  the  organs,  is  a  mural 
painting  of  the  Nativity,  by  JVill  H.  Low.  He  also  designed  the  ten 
side  windows,  consisting  of  three  angels  each,  varying  in  attitude  and 
attributes,  and  carrying  out  a  general  uniformity  of  conception  (exe 
cuted  by  Heinigke  and  Bowen}.  In  the  Broad  st.  faQade  is  a  spacious 
window  (20  by  30  ft.),  representing  "St.  Paul  Preaching  at  Athens." 
The  window  was  designed  by  Walter  Crane  and  executed  by  J.  and  R. 
Lamb. 

Two-  blocks  further  S.,  Clinton  avenue,  one  of  Newark^s 

finest  residential  streets,  branches  off  diagonally  to  the  S.  W., 

forming  with  Broad  st.  the  apex  of  a  triangle  occupied  by 

Lincoln   Park.     At   the   northern   angle   of   this   park   is   an 

Indian  Group  in  bronze  (C  B.  Ives,  sculptor). 

This  group,  presented  to  the  city  in  1895,  by  Dr.  J.  Ackerman 
Coles,  is  composed  of  three  figures,  a  kneeling  woman,  an  Indian  chief 
and  a  white  girl  in  Indian  dress.  It  illustrates  an  episode  of  Nov.  1764, 
following  a  truce  made  with  the  Indians,  when  a  large  number  of  the 
settlers,  who  had  been  captured  as  children,  came  back  to  their  native 
towns.  In  this  group  a  mother  succeeds  by  a  song,  in  awakening 
memories  of  childhood  in  the  daughter  who  still  clings  to  her  Indian 
husband.  • 

On  the  E.  side  of  Broad  st.,  facing  the  Indian  Monument, 
is  the  site  lately  acquired  for  Newark's  projected  Memorial 
Building. 

At  the  N.  cor.  of  Broad  st.  and  Clinton  ave.,  is  the  South 
Park  Presbyterian  Church,  a  brown  stone  structure  with 
a  classic  portico  supported  by  four  Ionic  columns.  Note  also 
the  two  towers,  in  three  stories,  the  first  and  second  octag- 
onal, the  upper  circular. 

Continuing  on  Clinton  ave.,  we  pass  at  W.  cor.  of  Halsey 
st.,«the  Clinton  Avenue  Reformed  Church,  completed  in  1872 
at  a  cost  of  $200,000.  Just  beyond,  on  the  R..  facing  Lincoln 
Park,   is   another  smaller  triangle,  called   Clinton  Park.     In 


NEWARK  479 

the  middle  stands  the  recently  erected  Bronze  Replica  of  the 
famous  Equestrian  Statue  of  General  Bartolomeo  Colleoni, 
the  original  of  which,  by  Andrea  Verrocchio,  is  in  Venice 
(erected  1493)- 

Verrocchio  died  after  completing  the  model  of  the  statue,  which 
was  cast  by  a  Venetian,  Alessandro  Leopardi,  recalled  for  the  purpose 
from  exile  because  of  forgery.  Leopardi  designed  the  lofty  and  dipr- 
nified  pedestal  on  which  the  statue  rests,  and  characteristically  attempted 
to  claim  the  whole  credit  by  inscribing  his  name  on  the  horse's  saddle. 
Kuskin  wrote  of  the  Colleoni:  "I  do  not  believe  there  is  a  more 
glorious  work  of  sculpture  existing  in  the  world  than  the  equestrian 
statue   of   Bartolomeo   Colleoni." 

The  task  of  making  the  replica  was  entrusted  to  Mr.  J.  Massey 
Rhind.  It  is  the  gift  of  Mr.  Christian  W.  Feigenspan,  a  citizen  of 
Newark.  The  .only  other  existing  copy  in  bronze  of  this  statue^  is  in 
Paris.  -^ 

From  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Lincoln  Park,  go  S.  one  block 
on  Pennsylvania  ave.  to  South  st.  Here  Brunswick  st. 
branching  off  to  the  R.  forms  a  triangle  occupied  by  the  inter- 
esting  (R.  C.)    Church  of  St.  Columba. 

This  edifice  is  an  adaptation  of  the  Roman  basilica  order  of  church 
architecture  (erected  1897).  At  the  main  entrance  is  a  semi-circular 
portico,  supported  by  six  Corinthian  columns;  and  in  the  interior  a 
similar  arrangement  divides  the  main  body  of  the  church  from  the  high 
altar. 

Notice  especially  the  series  of  ceiling  decorations  (all  of  them 
gifts  of  members  of  the  church):  i.  St.  Columba;  2.  The  Resurrec- 
tion; 3.  The  Ascension;  4.  The  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost;  5.  The 
Assumption;  6.  The  (Coronation.  The  church  also  contains  some 
rather  good  memorial  windows,  notably  that  of  St.  Columba,  behind 
the  altar. 

South  on  Brunswick  st.  at  No.  77  is  a  modest  wooden 
structure,  with  a  mansard  roof,  the  former  home  of  Richard 
Watson  Gilder,  late  editor  of  the  Century  Magazine . 

Just  S.  of  the  Gilder  house  turn  W.  on  Murray  st.  to 
Clinton  ave.  At  the  S.  E.  cor.  is  St.  Luke's  Methodist  Epis- 
copal Church,  an  ornate  Gothic  structure,  with  a  massive 
square  tower,  having  on  each  side  three  lancet-like  openings. 

Continuing  S.  on  Clinton  ave.,  on  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Mon-  . 
mouth  st.  is  the  unpretentious  Clinton  Avenue  Baptist  Church 
(organized  1871 ;  present  structure,  1895).  Diagonally  op- 
posite, at  the  cor.  of  Wright  St.,  is  the  First  Congregational 
Church.  Just  S.  of  Wright  St.,  Elizabeth  ave.  branches  off 
to  the  left;  and  in  the  angle  thus  formed  stands  the  simple, 
yet  pleasing  R.  C.  St.  Stephen's  Church,  a  stucco  structure, 
covered  with  ivy. 

Continuing  on  Clinton  ave.,  we  come  next  on  the  R.,  to 
Stratford  PI.,  one  block  N.  on  which,  at  the  cor.  of.  Avon 


48o  RIDER'S  NEW  YORK  CITY 

ave.  formerly  stood  the  home  of  Edmund  Clarence  Stedman, 
the  poet  and  banker.  The  house  has  been  removed  from 
its  original  site  and  now  faces  on  Avon  ave.  Here  Stedman 
wrote  many  of  his  poems  and  part  of  his  volume  on  The 
Victorian  Poets. 

Diagonally  across  from  Stratford  PL,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of 
Clinton  and  Johnson  aves.,  stands  the  First  Reformed  Church, 
a  beautiful  white  granite  structure,  erected  in  1893.  The 
church  was  organized  in  1833.  Among  the  church's  former 
pastors  were  the  Rev.  James  Scott  (1843-58),  who  wrote  a 
"Life  of  Pollok"  (a  Scotch  poet,  author  of  "The  Course  of 
Time"),  and  the  Rev.  E.  P.  Terhune  (1859-76)  the  husband 
of  Marion  Harland. 

Two  blocks  further  S.  where  Clinton  ave.  crosses  Bel- 
mont ave.,  in  a  small  triangular  park  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
avenue,  there  is  a  bronze  statue,  heroic  size,  commemorating 
the  Spanish-American  War.  It  is  entitled  The  Hiker,  and 
represents  the  type  of  American  soldier  in  that  war.  (Allen 
G.  Newman,  sculptor). 

This  statue,  originally  designed  to  be  shown  in  the  rotunda,  of  the 
New  York  State  Building  at  the  Jamestown  Exposition,  was  unveiled 
on  Memorial  Day,  19 14,  by  the  United  Spanish  War  Veterans,  in 
memory  of  the  soldiers,  sailors  and  marines  who  lost  their  lives  in 
the  Spanish  war. 

Facing  the  monument  on  the  South  side  is  the  Central 
Presbyterian  Church. 

To  the  southeast,  distant  about  one  mile,  lies  IVeequahic 
F*ark,  one  of  Newark's  largest  parks,  and,  like  Branch  Brook 
Park,  forming  part  of  Essex  County'*  extensive  park  system. 
Near  the  S.  W.  corner  is  the  site  of  the  historic  "Divident 
Hill,"  recently  commemorated"  by  a  monument  (p.  462). 


r" 


INDEX 


ERRATA. 

Page  9,  line  28,  for  "La  Marquise"  read  **Le  Marquis." 

Page  20,  line  52,  for  "26th  St."  read  "36th  St." 

Page  64,  line  22,  for  "Cloisters"  read  "Museum." 

Page  86,  line  25,  for  "Geographical"  read  "Genealogical." 

Page  120,  line  27,  for  "Ximens"  read  "Ximenes." 

Page  122,  line  24,  for  "Gellert"  read  "Gelert." 

Page  135,  line  42,  for  "Title  Guarantee  Trust"  read  "Title 
Guarantee  &  Trust." 

Page  163,  line  14,  for  "Houdin"  read  "Houdon." 

Page  210,  line  i,   for  "Brotzell"  read  "Broztell." 
"      "      line  2,  for  "W"  read  "E." 

Page  336,  line  13,  for  "Robert  I.  Collier"  read  "Robert  J. 
Collier." 

Page  344,  lines  1-2,  for  "J.  Hood  Wright  Memorial"  read 
"Knickerbocker." 


V 


INDEX 

For  explanation  of  abbreviations  used  see  p.  viii;  most 
of  them  are  self -explanatory.  The  names  of  architects, 
sculptors  and  artists  {of  mural  works)  are  entered  here  in 
italics,  but  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  index  the  works 
of  sculptors  and  artists  in  the  various  art  collections  proper. 


"A.   I.  C.   P.,«  216 
Abbey,  E.  A.,  166 
Abbey  Inn,  355 
Abbott    Collection 
(Egyptian),  244 
,  Aberdeen  Hotel,  9,  182 
Abingdon   Sq.,    162 
Abraham      &      Straus 

(dept.  store),  418 
Academy    of    Medicine, 
197 

of  Music,  218 

-— — ,   Brooklyn,  419 
Acierno's  Italian  Thea- 
tre,   62 
Adams,    H.,    207,    213, 

229,  426 
Adams,  Dr.   Wm.,   tab- 
let, 25^ 
Adams  Express  Co.,  50 

, Bldg.,    125 

Adams-Flanagan    Co. 
(dept.    store),   365 
Adelphi  College,  439 

—  Theatre,  61 
Aderente,  V.,  394.  45^ 
Adler,  M.  L.,  res.,  333 
Administration,     Depts. 

of,    xxv-xxvii,    xxviii- 

XXX 

Advancement  of  Peace, 
Carnegie    Endow., 

274 
Advent,  Church,  241 
Aeolian  Bldg.,  229 

—  Hall,   6^ 

Aero  Club  of  America, 

66,   73 
Aeronautical      Soc.      of 

America,  66 
Agassiz,   L.,  bust,   279 
Aged   &   Infirm,   Home, 

no 
Aged    Couples,    Home, 

162 
Aged   of   Little    Sisters 

of  Poor,  Home,  24;5 
Aged    Women,    Home, 

Pres.,  334 


Aged     Women,     Home, 

St.   Luke's,   256 
Albano,  S.,  428 
Albemarle  Bldg.,   165 

—  Hotel,  173 
Albert,  Hotel,  8,   179 
Aldermen,    Board,   xxv 
Aldine  Club,  7z,   181 
Andrews,  F.  M.  &  Co., 

166 
Aldrich,    T.    B.,    home, 

177 
Alexander    Hamilton 

Pk.,  237 
Alexander,     Sir    Wm., 

grave,  134 
Algonquin    (hotel),    11, 

198 
Alhambra    Theatre, 

Keith's,  60 
All  Angels'  Church,  240 
All   Souls'  Unit. 

Church,  215 
AMaire's   (res't),  23 
Alhambra  Theatre,   342 
Alliance  Frangaise,  73 
Allen    &    Collins,    242, 

256 
Allen  St.,  ISO 
Alps  (res't),  22 
Alt  Heidelburg   (res't), 

Altman    Collection 

(art),  313,  Z2S-27 
Altman 's   (dept.  store), 

7Sy    183 

Amateur      Athletic 

Union,  66 
Ambrose  Channel,    104 
America,   Hotel,   219 
"American"  (paper),  87 

—  Auto.  Assoc,  70 

—  Bank    Note    Bldg., 
130 

—  Bible  Soc,  155 

—  Book  Co.,   175 

—  District    Telegraph 
Co.,  49 

—  Exch.   Nat.   Bk.,   135. 

—  Express  Co.,  50 


—  Geographical      Soc, 
346 

—  Insurance  Bldg.,  464 

—  League     (baseball), 
67 

—  Miss'y    Assoc,    216 

—  Music  Hall,  58 

—  Sugar    Refining    Co. 
Bldg.,  454 

—  Surety  Bldg.,  135 

—  Theatre,  58,   169 

—  Tract  Soc,  132 
Amsinck,  Mrs.  (j.,  res., 

329 
Amsterdam    Ave.,    2^7, 

241-42 
Andre,  Major,  112,  113 
Anderson  Galleries,  212 
An^elo's  (res't.),  24 
Animals,      Soc,      Pre- 

vent'n  Cruelty,  209 
Annetje  Jans  Farm,  158 
Ansonia,    Hotel,     13; 

res't,  22 
Anthony,  Prof.  W.  A., 

tablet,  154 
Apartments,    furnished, 

1S-16 
\pollo  Hall,   1 6s 
Appellate     Ct.     House, 

207-9 
Applied  Design,  School, 

Women,   222 
Apportionment,      Board 

of  Estimate  and,  xxv 
Apthorp  (apart,  house), 

240 
Aquarium,    120-21 
Arbuckle  Institute,  409 
Archambault  (res't.), 

22 
Archbishop,       N.       Y., 

house,  214 
Architectural  League  of 

N.  Y.,  64 
Argentine    Republic, 

consul,  91 
Arion  Society,  73,  217 
Aristide  Fumey  (res't), 

23 
Armenian  churches,  82 


484 


INDEX 


—  cqlony,  221-22 

—  res'ts,  25 
Armory    (Brooklyn), 

406 
— ,  8th  Coast  Artilcry, 

362 
— ,  Squadron  C,  435 
Armstrong  D.  M.,   178, 

182 
Army  &  Navy  Club,  74, 

230 

—  Bldg.,  U.  S.,  123 
Arnold,  Benedict,   112 
Arnold.      Constable     & 

Co.  (store),  185 
Arsenal,   330 
Art    Students*    League, 

64 
Arthur,     Pres.    C.    A., 

home,  180;  oath,  222 
Asaki   (res't),  25 
Asbjornsen,  423 
Ascension,  Church,  177- 

Aschenbrodel  Verein, 

340 
Ashokan    Reservoir, 

xxvii 

Assay  Office,   127 

Assoc,  for  Improving 
the  Condit.  of  the 
Poor,  N.  Y.,  216 

Astor,  Col.  Jn.  J., 
grave,  345 

Astor,  Vincent,  mar- 
ket, 241;  res.,  330 

Astor  Bldg.,   126 

Astor,  Hotel,  8,  171; 
res't.,  21 

—  Library,   153 

—  Place  Opera  House, 

153 

—  Theatre,  57»  171 
Asylums      (children), 

xxxiii-xxxiv 
Athens,     Hotel,     res't. , 

22 
Athletics,   66 
Atlantic   &   Pacific  Tea 

Co.  Bldg.,  455 

—  Ave.,  412 

—  Ave.  Terminal,  39 

—  Coast  steamships,  43 
Audubon,    J.    J.,    bust, 

279;  grave,  345 
Audubon    Theatre,    60, 

354     „ 
Austria-Hungary,     con- 
sul, 91 
Authors'  Club,  73,  219 
Automat  (res'ts.),  26 


Automobile   and    Motor 
CIul),  N.  J.,  466 

—  Club  of  Amer.,  70,  73 
"—  Row,"  173,  239 
Automobiles,  hired,  4 
Avery  Library,  269 
Aviation,  66 

B 

Babies'  Hosp.,  89 
Baerer,    H.,    303,    420, 

423,  437 
Baggage,  2 

Baird,  S.  F.,  bust,  279 
Baker,  J.  B.,  131 
Balkan   (res't.),  25 
Ball;   T.,   188,  30s,  346 
Baltimore  Dairy  Lunch, 

400 
Bamberger's    Dept. 

Store  (New'k),  474 
Bank  for  Savings,  215 
Bank  of  N.  Y.,  128 

—  St.,  162 
Bankers,  90 

—  Trust  Co.  Bldg.,  126 
Banks,  90 

Banvard's  Museum,  165 
Baptist  churches,  80,  82 
Bar  Assoc,  73^   198 
Barber   shops,    17 
Barberini  tapestries,  259 
Barclay  St.,  158 
Barge  Office,  U.  S.,  120 
Barnard,    G.    G.,     168, 

186,  270.  313 
Barnard  Club,  74 

—  College,  255,  274-75 

—  Museum,  64 
Barney     &     Chapman, 

173,  223 
Baron  de  Hirsch  Trade 

School,  338 
Barranca  (res't.),  24 
Barren  Island,  104 
Barrow  St.,   161 
Bartholdi,  A.,  105,   163, 

255 
Barth's    (res't.),    25 
Bartlett,    P..    126,    186, 

307 
Bartow,  391 
Barye,  196,  428 
Baseball,  66-67 

—  Grounds,  353 
Bathing,  72 
Baths,  17 

Batterson,  J.  C,  164 
Battery,    107,    1 19-21 

—  Pk.  Bldg.,  119 


Battle   of    Golden    Hill, 

132,  139 
Bauer,  O.  H.,  172 
Baur,   T.,  428 
Bayard  St.,  151 
Beach,  423 
Beach  St.,  158 
Beaux  Arts,   Cafe   des, 

21 
Beckwith,  J.  C,  166 
Bedford  Park,  436 
Bedloe's  Is.,  105 
Beecher,^  H.    W.,    403, 

407;    trial,   404,   407; 

homes,  409;  portrait, 

408;   memorials,  407, 

408 
Beekman  PI.,  226 
Beer,  F.,  229 
Beer,  restaurants,   19 
Beethoven,  bust,  303 
Belasco  Theatre,  57 
Belden  Hotel  (City  Is.), 

392 
Belgium,  consul,  91 
Belleclaire,    Hotel,     12, 

240 
Belleville    Ave.     Cong. 

Church  (New'k),  469 
Bellevuc  Hosp.,  88,  225 
Bellews,     Dr.     H.     W., 

bronze,     215;     home, 

220 
Belmont,     O.     H.     P., 

mausoleum,  387 
Belmont,      Hotel,      10, 

212;   res't.,  21 
Belmont  Tunnel,  no 
Belnord  (apart.),  241 
Beloved    Disciple, 

Church,  335 
Belvedere    (Central 

Pk.),    304 
Bement   Collection 

(minerals),  300 
Bennett  St.,  355 
Benzoni,  183 
Berg,  C,  J.,  387 
Bergen  Reformed 

Church  (J.  0,  458 
—  Square,  457 
Berger   (res't.),  23 
Bergh,  Henry,  209,  216 
Berkeley  Lyceum,  197 

Bertha-Claire    (tea 

room),  26 
Best  &  (Jo.  (store),  183 
Beth  Haim  (cemetery), 

227 
Bethesda  Fountain,  303 


INDEX 


485 


Bethune,  Dr.  G.  W., 
416 

Bianchini,  A.,   268 

Bible  Ttachers'  Train- 
ing; School,  222 

Bibliography,  99-103 

Bickmore,  Prof.,  bust, 
285 

Bicycling,  67 

Bigelow,  Jn.,  home,  220 

Bijou  Bldg.,  166 

—  Theatre,  417 
Billiards,  68 
Billings,   C.   K.    G.,   es- 
tate, 355 

Billopp  House,  452 
Biltmore,  Hotel,  8,  212- 
13;  res't.,  21 
Bishop    Collection 

(jades),  307,  313 
Bishop's     House      (St. 

John's),  263 
Bissell,  G.  £.,  121,  164, 

207,  267 

Bitter,  a.,  122,  133, 
136,  205,  207,  253, 
426,  472 

Blackwell's    Is.,    109-10 

Blaeser,  G.,  302 

Blasfield,    E.    H.,    183, 

208,  344,    456,    472, 

473,  475  , 
Bleecker,   A.   J.,   vault, 

134 
Bleecker  St.,  162 
Blessed    Sacrament, 

Church,    239 
Blind,    Assoc,    N.    Y., 

Bloomingdale  Dutch 

Ref  d  Church,  241 
Bloom  ingdale's       (dept. 

store),  226;  res't.,  25 
Blue   Bird    (tea  room), 

26 
Blum,  R.,   169 
B'Nai   Jeshurun    (syna- 

gogue),   334 
Boarding  houses,  16 
Boeardus  Bouwerie,  158 
Bohemian  churches,  82 

—  district,  338 
Boiler  Squad,  xxvi 
Bolivia,  consul,  91 
Bonaparte,  Joseph,   254 
Bonnot,  Cafe,  23 
Bonta    Narragansett 

(hotel),       12,       241; 
res't.,  22 
Booth,    E.,    bust,     164, 
228 


Booth  Theatre,  57,  171 
Borgfeldt  Bldg.,  219 
Borglum,   G.,  a6o,  262, 

268,  307,  407,  475 
— ,  S.,  428 
Borough  Hall  (B'klyn). 

402-4 

—  presidents,  xxv 
Boroughs,     Greater     N. 

Y.,  xv-xvi 
Bossen  Bowerie,  160 
%ssert.  Hotel,  399,  411 
Boston  Post  Road,  359 
Bostwick,    Mrs.    J.    A., 

res.,  329 
Bosworth,    W.    W..    156 
Botanic  Garden,  B'klyn, 

434-435 
Botanical  Garden,  N.  Y., 

377-81 
Bound     Brook,    N.    J., 

118 
Bousquet,  Caf^,  23 
Bowery,  149 

—  (C.  I.),  446 

—  Mission,  81,   151 

—  Theatre,  former,  151 
Bowling,  68 
Bowling  Green  121 
Bldg.,   125 

Boy    Scouts,    headquar- 
ters, 181 
Poyden,  Seth,  466,  469, 

Bracony,  L.,   167,   263 
Bradford,   Wm.,   grave, 

134 
Brady,  N.   F.,  res.,  332 
Branch      Brook      Park 

(New'k),  471 
Brander  Matthews  Dra- 
matic Museum,  268 
Ttrazil,  consul,  91 
"  Bread      Lines,"      151, 

156 
Breck,    W.,   143 
'Creese,   S.,   grave,   134 
Breslin,   Hotel,  9,   165; 

res't.,  20 
Bretton   Hall,    12,  240 
Brevoort,  Hotel,  8,  177; 

res't.,  22 
T^rewers'  Exchange,  219 
Brewster,   G.   T.,  426 
Brick      Pres.      Church, 

184 
Bridge   Squad,  xxvi 
Bridges,    Dept.,   xxviii 
Bridges,  Harlem  River, 

352 


Bridgham,  S.   W.,  res., 

332 
Brighton     Beach,     446, 

448 

Casino,  448 

Hotel,  448 

Brinkerhoff  Hall,  275 
Bristol    (hotel),   11 
Broad   St.,   129-30 

(New'k),  472 

Broadway,    125-26,    132, 

239-42 

—  Arcade  Bowling  Al- 
leys, 68 

—  Central   Hotel,  res't, 
20 

—  Photoplay      Theatre, 
61 

—  Pres.  Church,  256 

—  Tabernacle,  1 73 
Broderick  House,  161 
Brokaw,  C.  V.,  res,  329 
— ,  H.  C,  res.,  332 
~,  I.,  res.,  332 

— ,  I.  v.,  res.,  332 
Bronck,  Jonas,  364 
Bronx       and       Pelham 

P'kway,  390 
— ,  Borough      of,      XV, 

358-92 

—  Opera  House,  365 

—  River,  381 
Brooklyn,    397-448 

—  Baseball  Club,  66 
— ,  Borough    of,    xv-xvi 

—  Bridge,    111-12,    140 

—  Canoe  Club,  68 

—  churches,  82 

—  Eagle  Building,  402 

—  Hospital,  437 

—  Institute  of  Arts  & 
Sciences,  424-34 

—  Law  Library,  86 

—  Museum  Lib.,  86 

—  Navy  Yard,  439-41 

—  suijway    stations,    30 

—  Theatre  fire,  402 
Brooks  Hall,  274 
Brooks,    Rev.    A.,    274; 

bust,  27s 
— ,  H.    M.,    res.,    329 
-T-,  Noah,  home,  468 
— ,   Phillips,  medallion, 

463 
Broome  St.  Tabernacle, 

81 
Brouner,  A.,  418 
Brounet,  A.,   240 
Brown,  H.  K.,  163,  423, 

463 
— ,  Geo.,    &   Co.,   472 


486 

Browne's  Chop   House, 

22,    l68 

Broztell,  Hotel,  aio 
Brunner,   A.    IV.,    271, 

388 
Bryan  Collection  (art), 

244 
Bryant,  Wm.  C,  home, 

180;  statue,  229 
—  Pk.,  229 

Bryce,  L.   S.,  res.,  333 
Buchanan,  Pres.,  home, 

223 
Buck,     Dudley,    memo- 
rial, 415 
Buckingham    (hotel),  10 
Buckman  &  Fox,  388 
Bull,  W.  L.,  res.,  329 
Bull's     Head     Tavern, 

151 
Bunny  Theatre,  61 

Burden,   Mrs.   A.,   res., 

331 

Burden,  I.  T.,  res.,  333 

Burnham,  D.  H.,  170 
Burns,   R.,   statue,   303 
Burr,  Aaron,  460,  477; 

wife,  351 
Bush-Brown,      H.     K., 

124,  144,  145,  207 
Bush  Terminal,  444 
Bushwick,  443 
Bustanoby's  (res't.),  21 
Butler,   Mrs.    Geo.    H., 

res.,   332 
Butter ick    Bldg.,    161 


INDEX 


C.    &    H.    Theatre,    56, 

169 
Cables,  48 
Cadillac  Hotel,  170 
Cadillac  Hotel   (C.   I.), 

447   ^ 
Cady,  C,  54 
Cake   shops,  27 
Calumet  Club,  73 
Calvary   Church,   215 

Rectory,  221 

El  is  Church,  215 
Camera    Club,    239 
Canal  St.,  151,  158 
Canby   herbarium,   239 
( 'andies,    27 
Candler    Bldg.,    169 
Canoe    Brook    Country 

Club,    69,    74 
Canoeing,    68 
Canova,  464 
Capitol  Lunch,  Inc.,  a6 


Carimini,    Sig.,     201 
Carl    Schurz    Pk.,    340 
Carles,  A.  J.,   167 
Carlos    (res't),    24 
Carlton  Terrace   (res't) 

22  f  241 
Carnegie,   A.,  res.,  333 
Carnegie  Hall,   63,  231 

—  Laboratory,  226 

—  Lyceum,  63,  231 
Carpenter  Library,  268 
Carrere     &     Hastings, 

172,     182,     186,    242, 

243,  261 
Carriages,   28 
Cary   sisters,   home,  180 
Casanova    Mansion,  389 
Casino     (Central    Pk.), 

301 
— Theatre,   55,   167 
Castle     Cave      (res't.), 

22 

—  Garden,  121 

—  Point,  459 

—  William,  105 
Caterson,  R.,  384 
Cathedral.        R.         C, 

(Brooklyn),   438 
Catholic    Club,    65,    74, 
230 

—  Protectory,     N.     Y., 

390 
C  a  t,s  k  i  1 1      Aqueduct 
xxvii 

—  Mts.,112 

. —  Mt.   System,  xxvii 
Cavanagh's    (res't.),   22 
Central      Bridge,      352, 

360 

—  Park,  301-5 

Riding   Acad.,    71 

West,  242-43 

—  Pres.     Church  (New- 
ark), 480 

--R.  R.,  N.  J.,   118 

—  R.    R.,    N.    J.,    Ter- 
minal, 38 

Century    Club,    65,    73, 
197 

—  Country     Club,     691 

74 

—  Theatre,    58,   242 

Cesnola   Collection,   an- 
tiques,      307,       3»3; 
glass,   311 
Chamber  of  Commerce, 

N.   Y.,    124,    131 
Chambers   St.,    158 
Chandler,   B.   A.,   217 
Chandler,  D.,  387 


Chandler   Chemical  Mu- 
Tongues, 


seum,  371 
Chapels     of 

259-62 
Cbapin,  S.  B.,  res.,  332 
Chaplain,  J.    C,    269 
Chapman,   F.   M.,  293 
Charles    (res't.),   23 
Charlton  St.,  158,   161 
C  h  ar  i  t  i  e  s  ,       Dept., 

xxviii 

—  Organization      S  o  c, 

215 

—  Private,  xxxiv 
C  h  a  r  V  e  t      Collection 

(glass),  3" 
Chatham  Sq.,   149 
"Checking"    baggage,  50 
Cheesbrough      Bldg., 

119 

Chelsea,  233 

--  (hotel),  9 

—  Improve.  Docks,  113, 

238 
Chemists'  Club,  74,  212 
Cherry   St.,    140-41 
Chesterwood       Studios, 

177 
Chevalier  (res't.),  23 
Child     Hy^ene,     Divi- 
sion,   xxix 
Children,      Soc.       Pre- 

vent'n   Cruelty,   216 
Children's     Aid       Soc. 
Hospital,  B'klyn,  447 

—  Court,   xxxiii,   221 

—  Gate,  331 

—  Museum,   435,   436 
Child's    rest's.,    25 

,  (Brooklyn),  400 

Chili,  consul,  91 
Chimney     Corner     (tea 

room),  26 
China,  consul,  91 
Chinatown,   149 
Chinese   churches,    83 

—  Delmonico'     (res't), 

24 

—  rest's,  24 
Chisholm,    H.    J.,    329 
Choate,  J.  H.,  res.,  329 
Choir     School      (St. 

John's),  263 
Chop   Houses,    English, 

22 
Chorrera    (res't.),  24 
Christ   Church,   239 
Christian      Science 

churches,  80,  82 
Christopher  St.,  162 


INDEX 


487 


"Church  in   the   Fort," 

tablet,  181 
Church  Lane,  341 
Church  Mission  House, 

ai5 
Churcher,     A.,     grave, 

— ,  R.,  grave,   134 
Churches,    79-83 . 

For     individual 
churches       see       their 
names,    also    names    of 
denominations. 
Churchill's  (res't.),  21. 

173 
Cilicia    (res't.),   25 
City  &  Suburban  Homes 

Co.,  3#  ^ 

—  Art      Commission, 

—  Club,  73 f  198 

—  Club  of  N.  Y.,  65 

—  Club    (B'klyn),   414 
"—  College."  344 

—  Hall   (J.  C),  455 

—  Hall   (N.   Y.),    141- 

— '^Ilall  (New'k),  477 

—  Hall  (Yonkers),  394 

—  Hall  Pk.,  139 

—  History    Club,    29, 

73,   197  , 

—  Hospital  no 

—  Investing  Bldg.,  135 

—  Island,  391-92 

—  -Tilission     &     Tract 
Soc,  N.  Y.,  216 

—  of   N.   Y..   College, 

344 

—  Park    (B'klyn,   441 

—  Prison  (B'klyn),  437 
Civiletti,  P.,  240 
Claremont    (res't),    22, 

254 

—  Ave.,  340 
Clarendon    Bldg.,    215 

—  Hotel,  400,  402 
Claridge,      Hotel,      11, 

170;   res't.,  21 
Clark,  D.  C,  res.,  332 
— ,  G.  C.^  res.,  333 
— ,  Harriet,  137 
— ,  J.  F.  A.,  res.,  333 
— ,    Sen.    W.    A.,    res., 

332 
(  iarke,  T.  S,,  208 
Classen,  S.,  340 
Classic  Theatre,  61 
Classen's  Point,  389 
Clearing  House,  N.  Y., 

131 


Clemens,  S.,  home,  177 
Clendening  (hotel),  12 
Cleopatra's  Needle,  304 
Clews,  J.  B.,  res.,  333 
Cliff  Apart.  House,  253 
Climate,  xxxvii-xxxviii 
Clinton,  De  W.,  statue, 

131,  445 
Clinton  &  Russell,  136, 

171 
Clinton       Ave.       Bapt. 
Church  (New'k),  479 

—  Ave.  Cong.  Church, 

439 
Reformed  Church 

(New'k),  478 

—  Park  (New'k),  478 
Clubs  ,73-74 
Cob  Dock,  441 
Cochraft,   A.    S.,   paint- 
ings, 396-397 

Coenties   Slip,    129 
Coffee   Exch.,    129 
Cohan's     Theatre,     56, 

170 
Colaizzi  (res't.),  23 
Coleman,  Caryl,  351 
Coles,     Dr.     A.,     466; 

home,  4174 
Colgate  Soap  Co.  Bldg.,: 

455 
Collect  Pond,   148,   i5i 
College      Hosp.      Med. 

Sch.,  4'2 

—  of   City   of   N.    Y., 
former,  221 

—  Settlement,  151 
Cclleoni,  statue,  New'k, 

479 
Collier,  R.  J.,  res.,  336 
Collingwood  (hotel),  10 
Ccllyer,   Rev.  R.,  bust, 

154 
Colombia,  consul,  91 
Colonia   (tea  room),  26 
Colonial  (res't.),  22 

—  Inn  (Pelham),  391 
Colonnade  Row,  153 
Colony  Club,  74,  210 
Colored  Persons, 

churches,  83 
Colt  &  Barney,  210 
Columbia    College,    tab- 
let, 214 

—  Hts.   (B'klyn),  406 

—  Knilcike'Tbo.cker 
Trust  Bldg.,  126 

—  Theatre,  58,   172 

—  University,     256, 

263-74 


Club,  yzt  220 

Columbus,      monument, 

174;  statue,  303 
Columbus  Ave.,   233 

—  Circle,  174 

—  Park,  148-49 
Comedy  Theatre,  S5 
Commerce,  xxxi 

—  St.   161 
Concert  Halls,  62-63 
(Concerts,  free,  63 
Concourse  (Bronx),  359 
Coney  Island,  446-48 

Jockey  Club,  70 

Confectioners,   27 
Congregational 

churches,  80,  82 
Connecting        K.        R. 

Bridge,  N.  Y.,  109 

Conrads,  C,  305 

Consolidated    Gas    Co., 

52 
Co.  Bldg.,  219 

—  Stock  Exch.,  129 
Constantinople    ( res't. ) , 

25 
Consuls,  91-92 
Conveyances,  28-29 
Cook  &  Welch,  263 
Cooke,  Geo.   F.,  grave. 

Cooper,    Fenimore, 
home,  159 

Cooper,  Peter,  443-44*, 
statue,  154;  memo- 
rial,   154;    home,   221 

Cooper  Park,  443 

—  Union,  154 
Cope,  E.  D.,  bust,  279 
Coppede  Bros.,  269 
Copper       Kettle       (tea 

room),  26  ^  . ,  . 

Corbin,    Marg.,    tablet, 

355 
Cornell      Univ.      Med. 

Sch.,  226 
Corrections,      Dept., 

xxviii  _ 

Correka,     Capt.     Jn., 

statue,  446 
Cort  Theatre,  58,   i73 
Cosey  Tea  Shop,  26 
Costa  Rica,  consul,  91 
Costello  Theatre,  61 
Cotton  Exch.,  129,  130 
County     Ct.     House 

(N.  Y.  C),  144 
Ccuper,  W.,  279,  281 


488 


INDEX 


Courrier      des       Etats- 

Unis,  87 
Court,  Children's,  xxxiii 
—  House       (Brooklyn), 

404 

(Bronx),  365 

new    (N.    Y.    C), 

'  Cowperthwaite's,        up- 

town,  341 
Lox,  K.,  208,  426,  457, 

475 
— ,  S.  S.,  statue,  153 
— ..  JV.  P.,  294 
"Cradle  of  Methodism," 

132 
Craftsmen,    Nat.     Soc., 

64    • 
Cram,  R.  A.,  257 

—  &  Ferguson,  261 
— ,   Goodhue  &  Fergu- 
son,    203,    262,    263, 

_  336.  345 
Lrawford,  266,  459 
Crcsap,  M.,  grave,  134 
Crescent  Athletic  Club, 

66,  69,  416 
Cricket,  68 
Crisp,  A.,  173 
Criterion  Club,  204 

—  Theatre,  56,  170 
Crocker     (3  a  n  c  e  r     Re- 
search Laboratory, 
264 

Crosby  -  Brown  Collec- 
tion (musical  in- 
strum.)   311 

Croton  Aqueducts, 
xxvii,  353 

Crotona  Athletic  Field, 
366 

—  Park,  36s 

Crowell,     Mrs.     J.     H., 

^res.,  333 

Crowtnshield,    F.,    212 

Crow's  Nest,  112 

Cruger  Mansion,  227- 
28 

Cruikshank  collection 
(N.   Y.   prints),   247 

Cushing,  R.,   153 

Crystal  Palace,  229 

Cuba,  consul,  91 

Cumberland    Hotel,    11, 

173 
Curb  Market,   130 
Curtis,  W.  J.,  res.,  332 
Curtis  High  School  (S. 

,  I,).  450 

^tjstom   House,    121-23.  | 


Customs,   xxxix-xli 
Customs       (baggage), 

xxxvi 
Cuyler,  Rev.  T.,  437 
Cuypers,   Dr.,    202 


Daingerfield,  E.,   172 
Dairy     Lunch     Rooms, 

25-26 
Daly's    Billiard    Rooms, 

68,   173 
—  Theatre,  165 
Dana,  J.  D.,  bust,  279 
— ,    Mrs.    R.    S.,    res., 

333 
d' Angers,  David,   141 
Darra^h,  /.  M.  A.,   276 
Darwin,  bust,  281  " 
Davis,     M.     L.,    grave, 

r.  ^34-35 
gay.  H.,   351 
Deaconesses,     Training 

School,  263 
Deaf  and  Dumb,  N.  Y. 

Inst,   for  Instruction, 

354  , 

—  Mutes,  Inlt.  for  Im- 
proved Condition,  337 

Deanery     (St.    John's), 

263 
"Death  Ave.,"  238 

—  Gap,  355 
De       Bevoise       family, 

410 
~)ecloux     collection,  154 
D<;     Heredia,     C,    res., 

332 
De    Lamar,    J.,    home, 

212 
Delancey  St.,   151 
Delaware,    Lackawanna 

&     Western     R.     R,, 

37,  118;  ticket  offices, 

40 

—  Water  Gap.   118 
Delmartin  Cafe,   165 
Delmomco*s  (re's't),  20, 

21,  129,  197 
Demingt  E.  W.,  365 
— ,  r.   W.,  166 
Denmark,   consul,    91 
Dentists,  88 
Denville,  N.  J.,   118 
Dept.    store    res'ts,    25 
Department   Stores,   75- 

76.       Vor    individual 

stores  see  their  names 
de  Peyster,  Ab.,  statue, 

121 


— ,   F.,  bust,  267 
De  Pinna  Bldg.,  202 
de   Rham,  C,  res.,   177 
Destitute    Blind,     Soc, 
Relief,  241 

—  Children,  Indust. 
Home,  St.  Joseph, 
334  . 

Detective  agencies,  xxvi 
Deutscher     Garten, 
Feldncr's,  447 

—  Verein,  230 
Deutsches    Haus,    273- 

74 
De   Witt   Clinton   High 

Sch.,  237 
De  Wolfe,  Bj^,  210 
Dieterich,      Cnzs.       F., 

res.,  332 
Dime      Savings     Bank, 

418 
Divine      Paternity, 

Church,  243 
Dix,  Gen. 'J.  A.,  grave, 

345 

—  Rev.   M.,  grave^  345 

Dixon  Pencil  Mfg.  Co. 

Bldg.,  456 
Doane,    G.    H.,    statue, 

465 
Docks,   107-08 

—  and    Ferries,    Dept. 
xxviii 

Dodge,  WT^e  L.,  14s, 
169,  171,  172,  173. 
198 

— ,   W.  F.,  386 

D'Oench   &    Yost, 

387 
Dolan's  Res't,  140 
Dominican  Repub., 

sul,  91 
Donnally  &  Ricci,  138 
Donndorf,  A.,  163 
Donoghue,  J.,  207 
Dorlon's    (res't),   22 
Downtown  Assoc,  73 
—  Businessman's  Gym., 

66 
Doyle,  A.,  166 
Draddy,  J.  G.,  423 
Drake,  J.  R.,  Park,  389 
Dramatic    Museum, 


229, 


con- 


Bra  n  d  e  r    Matthews, 

L'68 
Dreicer,  M.,  res.,  333 
Driving,  68 
Drouillard,  Capt.  J.  B., 

res.,  332 


INDEX 


489 


Drug  and  Chemical 
Club,  73 

Drury,  A.,  275 

Dryden,  Jn.  F.,  statue, 
472 

"Dual  System"  (sub- 
way), 31 

Du  Barry  panels,  331 

Duboy,  P.  E.,  252 

Dudley  Memorial,  412 

Duffield  St.,  418 

—  Theatre,  418 
Duke,  B.,  res.,  333 
— ,  J.  B.,  res.,  332 
Duncan,  J.  H.,  253 
Dunderbera;  Mt.,  112 
Dunwoodie     Country 

Club,  69 
Durland's  Riding  Acad., 

71 
Durr    collection     (art), 

244 
Dutch  Church,  original 

(Harlem),  341 

—  Ref'd   Church    (Har- 
lem), 341 

Dyckman    Bridge,    354, 

—  House,  356-57 
Dyker    Beach    Pk.,    70 

—  Meadow      Country 
Club,  69 


Eagle  Bldg.,  215 
"Eagles    and    Prey" 

(statue),  303 
Eakins,  X.,  420 
Earl  Hall,  271 
Earle    (hotel),   8 
East  India  Cafe,  25 

—  River  107 

Homes,  339 

Pk.,  340 

Eastchester,  391 
Eastern  Blvd.,  391 

—  Dist.     High     Sthool, 

442-43 

—  Parkway,  420 

—  Post    Rd.,   341 
Ebbets  Field,  66 
Ebling's  Casino  (res't), 

^23 

Ecuador,  consul,  91 
Eden  Musee,   164.   228 
Education,      Board, 

Bldg  .,217 
• — ,  Dept.,  xxix 
Educational       Alliance, 

150 
—  Bldg.,  178 


Eggleston,  E.,  419 
Egleston,  T.,  bust,  271 
Egleston  Museum,  269 
Egyptian       Antiquities, 
B'lclyn     Inst.      Mus., 
428-29 
Eidlitc,  C.  L.  W.,  198 
-    L.,   196 

—  &  Mackensie,   170 
Eij^th    Ave.,   231-32. 

—  Regt.,    Armory,   335 
336 

Eighty-first      St.      The 

atre,  60,  240 
Electrical    Testing    La 

boratories,  339-40 
Electricity,  Dept,  xxvii 
Elevated  R.  R.   Bridge 

352 

—  roads   32-34 
Eleventh  Ave.,   237-38 
Elizabeth,  N.  J.,   116,118 
Elks  Club  House,  230 
Ellis  Is.,  106-7 
Eltingd  Theatre,  56, 1 69 
Ehvell,  F.  E.,  122 
Emanu-El,  Temple,  196- 

97 
Embroideries,  shops,  yy 
Emens  &  Unitt,  171 
Emerson  Hall,  276 
Emmanuiel     Bapt. 

Church,  439 
Emmett,  T.  A.,   137 
Emmet  Bldg.,  210 
Empire  Bldg.,  125 

—  City    Racing   Assoc, 
70 

— ,  Hotel,  12,  239 

—  Theatre,   55.   168 
Plndicott   (hotel),   12 
Engelbert,  H.,  152 
Engel's     Chop     House, 

22 
Engineering,        School, 

Bldg.,  271 
Engineers'  Club,   y^ 
-— (B'klyn),  414 
—  Gate,  333 
English,  Dr.  T.  D.,  469 
English   bankers,   90 

—  Chop  Houses,  22 
Enrico      and      Paglieri 

(res't),  24 
Equitable    Life    Assur. 
Bldg.,   135 

—  Trust  Co.,   128 
Ericsson,   J.,   home,  159 

—  statue,   120 
Erie  R.   R.,    117;   ticket 

offices,  39 


—  Terminal,  37 
Erkins,  H.,  169 
Esplanade       (Central 

Pk.),  303 
Essex  Co.  Court  House 

(Newark),  475-76 
Estimate     and     Appor- 
tionment, Board,  xxv 
Ethical     Culture     Soc, 

81 ;    Meeting    House, 

242 
Euclid     Hall     (apart.), 

241 
Eugenie        Granier 

(res't),  23 
Evans,  Jn.,  &  Co.,  263 
Evening    Post    (paper), 

87 

Bldg.,  137 

Everett  Bldg.,   163,  214 
Excelsior  Club,   414 
Exchange   Buffet,   25 

—  Ct.  Bldg.,  126 

—  Place,  454 
Exempt    Firemen's    Or- 
ganization, 227 

Expenses,        travelers', 

xxxviii-xxxix 
Express  companies,  49- 

51 
Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary, 
"N.   Y.,   223,   225 


"Falconer"       (bronze), 

305^ 
Fall  River  steamers,  44 
Faneuil,    Benj.,    grave, 

134 
Far    East   Tea    Garden, 

24 
l^armers'   Bridge,   354 
Farquhar,   P.,  res.,   333 
Farragut,    Admiral, 

grave,  386 
Farrish's    Chop    House, 

22 
Faust's    (res't),   2^ 
Favrile  glass,  214 
Fayerweather    Hall,  269 
Fav's  Oyster  and  Chop 

House,  22 
Featherbed   Lane,    360 
I'elix-Portland     (hotel), 

ir,   172 
!*eltman*s    (res't),   447 
Fernery   (tea  room),  26 
Ferries,    36,    39,    1 13-14 
iMeld,  W.  B.  O.,  home 

202 


490 


INDEX 


Filth  Ave.,  17485,  196- 
205,   329-33 

(tea  room),  36 

Bank,  197 

Bldg.,  180-81 

Pres.   Church,  304 

Res't,    22 

Finance,  Dept.,  xxvi 
Fine  Arts  Soc,  Amer- 
ican, 231 
Finn,  J.   IV.,  21,   168 
Fire  Dept.,  xxvi 

—  Hdqrts.        (B'klyn), 

417 

—  Island,  104 

—  Prevention,    Bureau, 
xxvi 

Fireman's      Monument, 

161 
Firemen's  Insur.    Bldg. 

(New'k),  tablet,  474 

—  Memorial,  253 

—  Monument,  134 
First     Baptist     Church, 

240 
Church,      W'ms- 

burg,  442 
Peddie    Mem. 

Church  (New'k),  465 

—  Battalion,    Field   Ar- 
tillery, Armory,  239 

—  Church,    Scientist, 

243.  435 

—  Cong.       Church 
(New'k),  479 

—  Field     Hosp.,     Ar- 
mory, 239 

—  Moravian    Church, 
222 

—  Pres.   Church,   1 78 

—  Pres.   Church    (New- 
ark), 476 

—  Reformed    Church 
(Newark),  480 

Church       (  W'ms- 

burg),  442 
Fish,    S.,   res.,   334 
Fishing.  69 
Fiske  Hall,  275 
Five  Points,   149 

Mission,  81 

Flagg,  Ernest,  13S 
Flanagan,  J.,  21,  467 
Flanders  Hotel,   172 
Flat-Iron    Bldg.,    164 
Flatbush       (  Brooklyn) , 

95 
Fleischman  Baths,  229 
Fleishmann's       (res't), 

20 

letcher,  I.  D.,  res.,  332 


Florida    (res't),    24 
Florists,  77 

F'lower  Ciarden  (Pros. 
Pk.),  423-24 

—  Hosp.,  89 
Flushing  Country  Club, 

69.  74 

Folies-Berg^re  (thea- 
ter), 172 

Food  Inspection,  Divi- 
sion, xxix 

Football,  69 

Ford,  Paul  L.,  home, 
410 

Fordham  Bridge,  353 

—  Hosp.,  88,  384 

—  Manor  Dutch  Ref'd 
Church,  362 

—  University,  381,  384 
Foreign  bankers,  90 

—  churches,  82-83 

—  railroads,  41 

—  theaters,  61-62 
Forest   Hill   Golf  Club, 

69    , 
__  Park    70 
Golf  Club,  B'klyn, 

69 
Faring er,  A.  E.,  394 

456 
Forrest,  Edwin,  233 
Fort "    George     Amuse- 
ment   Pk.,    353,    355- 

—  Greene    Pk^,    436 

—  Washington  Pk.,  354- 

55 

Point,  355. 

Fortications,   xviii-xix 

Forty-eighth  St.  The- 
atre, 58,  173 

Forty-fourth  St.  The- 
atre, 56 

Foster,  Mrs.  B.,  house, 

253 
Founder's      Monument 

(New'k),  468 
Foundling  Hosp.,  N.  Y., 

3Z7 

Four  Corners  (New- 
ark), 473^     ^ 

lourteenth  St.  Theatre, 
22y 

Fourth   Ave.,    214-17 

—  Nat.  Bk.,   130 
Fowler,   1 82 

— ,      Brig.  -  Gen.      Ed., 

statue,  437 
Fox    Hills    Golf    Club, 

69 
--  Hunting,  70 


Fragonard  panels,  331 
France,  consul,  91 
Francfort's  (res't),  393 
Franconi's  Hippodrome, 

180 
Frankfort  St.,    140 
Franklin,      bust,      279, 
328;  statue,  140;  me- 
morial, 321 
Fraser,  J.  E.,  262 
Fratin,  C,  303 
Fraunces'    Tavern,    20, 

123-24 
Freehorne,    Skirah    M., 

428 

Freight  agents,  41 

French,     V.     C,     122, 

213,    265,    330,    42s, 

426,  468;  studios,  177 

French    Art,    Museum, 

—  bankers,  90 

—  Benev.    Soc.    Hosp., 
89,  237 

—  churches,  83 

—  Evangel.  Church,  228 

—  res'ts,  22-23 
Frend,  D.  C,  428 
Freundschaf  t      (club), 

73 
Soc.    3'^6 

"Friars"   (club),   74 

— ,  club-house,  1 72 

Frick,  H.  C,  res.,  330- 

31 
Friends,  Soc,  churches, 

80,  82 
Fruit,  shops,  28 
Fucks,  E.,  351 
Fuertus,  L.  A.,  294 
Fuller,    W.     W.,    res., 

333 
Fuller  Bldg.,  164,  180 
Fulton,  R.,  tablet,   134 
Fulton  Market,  136 

—  St.    (B'klyn),  401 

—  Theatre,  S7y  ^7^ 
Furnald  Hall,  273 
Furnished  rooms,   14-15 
Furriers,  77 


Gaiety  Theatre,  57,  172 
Games,  65-72 
Gansevoort  Market,  136, 

162 
Garages,  3-4 
Garden  City  Golf  Club, 

69 
—  of  Cathay  (res't),  24 


INDEX 


491 


—  St.,  336 
Garibaldi,  statue,  175 

—  House,  451 
Gamsey,  E.  E.,  122-23, 

473 
<jarrct  (res*t),  20 
Garrison,    W.    L.,    me- 
morial, 163 
Garvin,  M.  /.,   365 
Gas,  Dept.,  xxvii 
Gaston  (res't),  23 
"Gazette,"  N.  Y.,  129 
Gelert,  J.,  122,  426 
General    Theological 

Seminary,  23^ 
Geology,  xvi-xviii 
George,    H.,    bas-relief, 

163 
George  R.  F,,  163 
George,  Fort,  354 
Gerard,  Hotel,  11;  res't, 

21 
Gerhardt,  K.,  463,  466 
(jerman  -  American    In- 
sur.  Bldg.,  131 

—  bankers,  90 

—  churches,  83 

—  Club,  230 

—  colony,  uptown,  340 

—  Hosp.,  89,  336,  337 

—  Ref'd    Church,    338- 

39 
— •  res'ts,  23 

—  theatre,  62 
Germanistic  Soc,  273 
Germany,  consul,  91 
Gerry,  E.  T.,  res.,  329 
— ,  R.  L.,  res.,  329 
Getty  House,  393 

—  Square,  39s 
"Ghetto,"  ISO 

Gibbs     Memor.     X-Ray 

Laboratory,  226 
Gibson,  J.,  188 
— ,  R.   W„  363 
Gilbert,  B.  L.,  125 
— ,  C.  P  .H.,  239 
— ,  Cass,  121,  138,  475 
Gilder,    R.    W.,    home, 

219,  479 
Gilsey  Bldg.,  165 
Gimbel's    (dept.    store), 

75,  167;  res't,  25 
Gingko  tree,  tablet  254 
Ginn  &  Co.,  ofEces,  178 
Giolito   (res't),  23 
Glass,     B'klyn     Inst. 

Mus.,  428-29 
Glentvxorth,  H.,  201 
Globe  Theatre,  57,  172 
Glover,  H.  S.',  res.,  333 


il 


home. 


(Cloves,  shops, 
Goelet,    Mrs. 

199 
— ,  R.,  home,  202 
— ,  Mrs.  R.,  home,  198 
Golf,  69-70 

Gonf arone    (res't) ,    24 
Goodwin,  Rev.  H.,  tab- 
let, 468 
(lordon.  Dr.  L.  J.,  456 
Ciorham  Bldg.,   183-84 
Gossler's  Campus  Res't, 

22 
Gotham,  Hotel,  11,  204 
Gould,  E.,  res.,  332 
— ,  F.  J.,  res.,  330 
Gould,  Geo.  J.,  res.,  330 
— ,•  J.,  mausoleum,  386 
Goujon,  J.,  169 
Gouverneur  Hosp.,  88 
— -House        (Newark), 

469 
Governor's  Is.,  105,  106 
i  Gowanus  Bay,  104 
Grace,     Mayor,     home, 

33^ 
Grace  Chapel  apd  Dis- 
pensary, 223-24 

—  Church   (B'klyn), 411 
(N.    Y.    C.),'  155- 

56 

—  Ct.,  41 1-412 

—  E  p  i  s  c  o  p  a  1    Church 
(Newark),  477-78 

Gracie,  House,  340 
Grafly,  C.,  122 
Graham,  A.,  437 
Gramercy  Pk.,  220 
'Jlrand  Blvd.,  359 

—  Central  Palace,  222 ; 
bowling,  68 

Station,  37,  1 14-15 

—  Hotel,  9 

—  Opera  House,  231-32 
-Theatre,  418 
'Granite    State"    (frig- 
ate), 253 

(jrant.      Gen.     U.      S., 
home,      330;      statue, 
435;  tomb,  253-54 
Tirant's  Tomb,  253-54 
Great    Britain,    consul, 

91 

—  Northern  (hotel),  12 
Greau       Collection 

(glass),  311 
Greek    quarter,    149-50, 

228 
Greeley,  Horace,  home, 

180;      statue,      139; 

bust,  445 


Greeley  Sq.,  166.  228 
Greene,   J.   C,   library, 

179 
Green  Tea  Pot,  At  the 

Sign  of,  26 
Greenhut  Co.,  75;  res't, 

25 
Gre enough,  266 
Green's,  Misses,  School, 

177 
Greenwich  Ave.,  227 

—  Road,  158 

—  Savings  Bk.,  228 

—  St.,  158 

—  Village,  160-62 
Greenwood     Bap. 

Church,  421 

—  Cemetery,  95,  445 
Gregorian    (hotel),   10 
Grenoble    (hotel),   12 
Grimes  Hill,  451 
Groceries,   27,   77 
Grolier    Clbu,    65,     73, 

210 
Grosvenor  (apt.),  177 
Grove  St.  School,  161 
Guarantee    Trust    Co., 

^  '35      . 
iruarnerto,  182 
Guastavino,  258 
([Guatemala,   consul,   91 
Guerin,   Jules,    117 
Guffanti,  Cafe,  24 

—  Res't,  23 
Guggenheim,    M.,    res., 

332 
— ,  W.,  res.,  330 
Guggenheimer,  Mrs.  R,. 

res.,  332 
Guides,  Historical,  29 
Guilbert      &      Bettelle, 

464 
GuUlaunte,  H.,  212 
Gustavus    Adolphus, 

Church,  221 

H 

Haan   (res't),  20 
Hackensack   Golf  Club, 

69 
Hahnemann   Hosp.,   89, 

335       ^ 
Haight,  C.  E.,  241 
Hair  -  dressers,    ladies', 

17 
Hale,    N.,   statue,    147; 

execution,  226 
Hall,  J.,  Collection  (i] 

vert.),  298 
— ,  Dr.  John,  204 


492 


INDEX 


Hall  of  Fame,  361 

—  of    Records    (Brook- 
lyn), 404 

(N.   Y.   C),   144 

Halleck,   F.    G.,   statue, 

303 
Hallett's  Pt.,  109 
Halloran's    (res't),    20 
Hamann,  (7.  -F.,  271 
Hamilton,    Alex.,    460; 

death,      162;      tablet, 

1 34 ;      statues,      131, 

272,  305,  414 
Hamilton  Club,   414 

—  Fish  Pk.,   152 

— ,   Fort,   xviii,    104  " 

—  Fountain,  252 

—  Hall,  272 

—  Theatre,  60 
Hammersley,    Miss    C. 

L.,  res.,  333 
Hancock,   Fort,  xix 

—  Sq.,  342 

Hanover    Lunch,    Inc., 
26 

—  Sq.,  129 

Harbeck       Mausoleum, 

Harbor  Squad,  xxvi 
Hardenhergh,     H.     J., 

166,  182,  212,  240 
Harding,  H.,  res.,  332 
Hargrave     (hotel),     13, 
Harkness,    E.    S.,    res., 

332  ' 

— ,  L.  v.,  res.j  332 
Harland,    Marion,    465, 

480 
Harlem,  340-42 

—  Hosp.,  88 

—  Mere,  304.  305 

—  Opera      House, 

34a 

—  Hts.,      Battle, 

351;    memorials, 

344 

—  Ship    Canal    Bridge, 

354 
Harmonic  Club,  73 
Harriman,  Mrs.  E.  H., 

res.,  330 
Harriman  Nat.  Bk.,  197 
Hariris,     W,     L.,     234, 

23s 
Harris' Theatre,  56,  169 
Harrison,    F.    B.,    res., 

330 
Harsen,  J.,  241 
"  irtford  Lunch  Co.,  26 
'■tley,  J.  S.,  120,  207, 
I 


60, 

2S5» 
256, 


Hartley   Hall,  273 
Hart's   Island,   392 
Harvard  Club,  73,  198 
Haskell,  A.  S.,  154 
Hastings,   T.,  205,  330 
Hats,  men,  stores,  77 
Havemeyer,  F.  C,  me- 
morial, 271 
— ,    Mrs.    H.    O.,    res., 

330 
Havemeyer    Hall,    270- 

Hnverstrav/.   112 
Hayti,   consul.  91 
Healey's    (rest),   22 
Health,  Dept.,  xxix 
— ,  — Bldg.,     (B'klyn), 

418 
Healy,  A.  A.,  410 
Hearn       Collection 

(paintings),  313,  315- 

17 
Hearn's    (dept.    store), 

75,   163 

Heavenly  Rest,  Church, 
198 

Heber,  *C,  A.,  A2b 

Hebrew  Orphan  Asy- 
lum, 344 

Heeney,  C,  413 

Heffley  School  of  Com- 
merce, 439 

Heights,    Church,    416- 

17 
— ,  Brooklyn,    405-17 
— ,  Jersey  City,  457 

—  Theatre,  61 
Heine  fountain,  360 
Heins,  258 

—  &  La  Farge,  257, 
260,  367 

Heintz,    L.    J.,    statue, 

360 
Hell  Gate,  109 
Henderson's  Res't,  447 
Henry,  Jos.,   bust,  279 
Herald   (paper),  87 

—  Bldg.,  167 

—  Sq.,   167,  228 

(hotel),  10 

Herbert,  H..  W.,  home, 

476 
— ,  J.  W.,  res.,  330 
Hermida      &      Palos 

(res't),  24 
Hermitage   (hotel),   168 
Herter,  E.,  360 
Herts,   H.   B.,   57,    170 

—  &  Tallant,  168,  419 
Hess  Bldg.,  215 


Hester  St.,  151 
Hewitt,  Miss  £.,  laces, 

154 
High  Bridge,  353 

—  Pressure     System, 
xxvii 

"Hiker,"    statue,    480 
Hillis,  Dr.  N.  D.,  408 
Hindoo  res'ts,  25 
Hippodrome,     59,     229- 

30 
Historical  Museum,  City 

College,  344 
Hispanic  Soc,  America, 

346-50 
Historie^il    Soc,    L.    I., 

416 

^,  N  J.,  464 

,  N.  Y.,  180,  244- 

51 
History  of  N.  Y.,  xix- 

xxiv 
Hittell,  C.  J.,  293 
Hoagland,  C.  N.,  412 
Hoagland      Laboratory, 

412 
Hoboken,  458-60 
Hoentschel      Collection 

(art),  327 
Hofbrau    Haus    (res't), 

23»   166 
Hoffman,    Dean    £.    A., 

grave,  34 5 
Hoffman   Island,   104 
Hogan,  Michael,  254 
Holland  House,  9 
Holley,      Alex.,      bust, 

17s 
Holley  (hotel),  8 
Hollow  Way,  343 
Hollywood  Inn,  394 
Holt,  J.,  grave,  137. 
Holy      Communion, 

Church,  228 

—  Innocents*    Church 
(Hoboken),  459 

—  Trinity  (church),  415 
Church,    Evang. 

Luth.,  243 
Holyrood     Protest. 

Church,  355 
Homeopathic   Medical 

College,  89 
Honduras,   consul,  91 
Hopatcong,   Lake,    118 
Hope    Baptist    Church, 

241 
Horace     Mann     School, 

276 
Horgan,  A.  J.,    144 
Horn's  Hook,  340 


Horse  racing,  70 

" —  Tamer  s,"     statiift, 
424 

Horsfall,  B.,  293 

Hospitals,  88-89 

— ,  City,  xxxiii 

— ,  State,  xxxiii 

Hotels,  6-14 
For  individual  hotels 
see  their  names 

tJoudon,  163,  328 

Houghton,  A.  A.,  252 

— .  C.  W..   2S2 

House  of  Prayer  (New- 
ark), 469 

Household    Arts    Bldg., 
276 

Howells  &  Stokes,  2.63; 
268,  276 

Hoyt,  A.  M.,  res.,  332 

Hudson  Boulevard,  458 

—  Co.      Court     House, 

456-57       ,    ,  . 

—  Fulton  Medal,   351 

—  Park,  161 

—  River,  trip,  1 12-13 

Day  Line,  43 

Rowing  Assoc,  7a 

steamers,  43-4 

—  St.,  161 

—  Terminal    Bldg.,    35. 
136 

—  Theatre,  57 

—  Tunnels,  35f  .19 
Hughes,  Archbishop, 

statue,  384 
Hugo's  (res't),  24 
Hugot's  (res't)   (S.  I.), 

450 

Huguenot  Church,   tab- 
let, 123 

Hungarian  churches,  83 

—  res'ts,  25 

Hunt,  R,  M.,  203,  331; 
memorial,  331 

—  &  Hunt,  387 
Hunter,    Dr.    T.,     ^35- 

36 
Hunter     College,     335- 

36 
Huntington,  A.  M.,  333 
Huntington,  Charles  P., 

346,  351 
— ,  Collis  P.,  bas-rehef , 

^48;  mausoleum,  384, 

386 
— ,  Mrs.        Collis        P., 

home,  204 
— ,  W.     R.,     memorial, 

260 
Hunt's  Point,  389 


INDEX 

Hurtig      &      Seamon's 

Theatre,  61 
Hutchinson,   Ann,    391 
Huyler's  or'ginal  store, 

164 

—  Chocolate  Works, 
219-20 

Hyatt,  Anna  V.,  252 

I 

Imperial    (res't),   400 
— ,  Hotel,  166;  res't,  20 
Indian  Brook,  390 
"—    Hunter"    (statue), 

303 

—  Monument  (New- 
ark), 478 

Industrial  Boys,  St.  Jo- 
seph Home,  153 

Infant  Asylum,  He- 
brew, 362 

Information  desks,  i 

Institute,  N.  Y.,  £duc. 
of  Blind,  233 

Institutions,  Charitable, 
xxxii-xxxvi 

Interborough    Power 
House,  238 

Intercession,   Chapel, 

345 

International  Concilia- 
tion, Amer.  Soa., 
274 

Inwood  Country  Club, 
69-70,   74 

—  Hill,  351 
Irish-American   Athletic 

Club,  66 
Iroquois   (hotel) ,   1 1 
Irving,  W.,  340;  home, 

113;     sister's     home, 

161 ;.  bust,  229 
Irving,  Hotel,  9,  220 

—  House,  219 

—  Place,  218-20 

Theatre,   62,   219 

Isabella    Heimath,   355 
Tsham   Pk.,  356 

Islip  Polo  Club,    71 
Italian  bankers,  90 

—  churches,    83 

—  res'ts.,  23-24 

—  theatres,  J62 
Italy,  consul.  91 
Itineraries,   92-98 
Ives,  182,  183 

Ives,  C.  B.,  428,  478 
Ivy  (tea  room),  26 


"J.  B.   G."   (res't.),  23 
Jack's  (res't.),  22 


493 

Jackson,  A.,  memorial, 
353 

— ,  r.  /?..  209 

Jacob's    Shipyards,    39J 
Jaegers,  A.,   122 
Jahnsen,   O.,   259 
Jamaica  Bay,   104 
Tapan,   consul,  91 
Japanese  churches,  83 

—  res't.,   25 

Jar  dine,  Kent  &  Jar- 
dine,  387 

Jarves,  J.  J.,  Collection 
(glass),  328 

Jay,  J.,  131 

Jay,  Fort,  xviii,  106 

Jefferson,  T.,  statue, 
273 

Jefferson  Market  Po- 
lice Ct.,  227 

Jeffrey's   Hook,   355 

Jennerwein,   P.,   138 

Jerome  Ave.,  359 

—  Park  Reservoir,  363 
Jersey    Central    R.    R., 

38,    118 
Jersey  City,  453-58 
Terminal,   Penn., 

37 
Jesup,  M.  K.,  277,  279; 

bronze,  281 

—  Collection  (woods), 
281 

Jewelers'    Bldg.,    131 
Jewelry,  shops,  78 
Jewish  Synagogues,  80, 

82 
Jews'     Burial     Ground, 

149 
Joan  of  Arc  Statue,  252 
Jockey  Club,  Brooklyn, 

70 
Joe's    Res't.     (B'klyn), 

400 
John  Jay  Park,   339 

—  St.  Method.  Church, 

131-32 
Johnson,    Dr.    S.,    264; 

tablet,  134 

Joralemon  St.,  412 

Josselyn,    E.    H.,    276, 

Journal   (paper),   87 

Journalism,  School,  273 

Judson   (hotel),  8 

— ,  Harriet  Bldg.,  418 

—  Memorial  Bapt. 
Church,  175 

Jules  Peck    (res't.),  2: 
Jumel,      Mme.,      grai 
345 


494 


INDEX 


(res't.),    23. 


—  Mansion,  351-52 

52 
/unior    League    House, 

339 

K 

Kaiserhof 
168 

—  -  (hotel,  C.   I.),  447 
Kalil's  (res't),  20 
Kearney,  Gen.  P.,  134 
Keck,  C.,  426 
Kaeley,  P.,  438 
Keen's  Chop  House,  22 
Keency's  Theatre,  418 
Keith's  Palace  Theatre, 

172 
Kellum,  Jn.,  155,  216 
Kelly,  /.,   235 
Kelly,  J.  E.,  124,  127 
Kemeys,  E.,  305 
Kendall,  E.  H.,  198,  199 
Kenmare  St.,   151 
Kennedy  House,  340 
Kent  Hall,  267 
Kernochan,  J.,  res.,  329 
Kill  von  Kull,   104-5 
King    Edward    (hotel), 

II 

—  Hong   Lau    (res't.), 

24 
King's  Bridge,  354 

—  Co.     Tennis    Club, 
72 

Kingsland,    Mrs.    Wm. 
M.,  res.,  333 

Kingston    Ave.    Hospi- 
tal, xxix 

Kinney  family,  474,  475 

Kip's  Bay,  226 

Kirchcff  &  Rose,  172 

Kit-Kat  Club,  65 

Klar,  J.,  169 

Knickerbocker    Club, 
73.    182 

Knickerbocker      Hosp., 

89 
— ,     Hotel,     10,     168; 
res't.,  21 

—  Theatre,  S4-55»  167 
--  Trust  Co^  183 
Knollwood   Country 

Club,  69,  74 
Koch  (dept.  store),  341 
Kohn,  Rstelle  R.,  242 
— ,  R.  D.,  242 


Boh^me  (res't),  23 
kbor  Temple,  81 
Ices,  shops,  77 


Lackawanna     Terminal, 

37 
La  Farge,  J.,   178,   185, 

203,  234,  258 
Lafayette,     memorial, 

321 

—  Amphitheatre,  160 

—  Ave.       Friends* 
Church,  439 

Pres.      Church, 

437 
— ,  Cafe,  22,  179 
— ,   Fort,   104 

—  st.»  152-53 

Laight,  Fort,  255 
Lake     (Central     Park), 


303»  304 
akew.i 


Lakewood,    Country- 
Club,   74 
Laloy   (res't.),  23 
Lamb,  C.  R.,  346 
— ,  F.  S.,  402 
— ,  T.  W.,  169,  172 

—  &  Rich,  274 
Lamb's  Club,  74 

—  Club-House,  230 
Lamport  &  Holt  steam- 
ers,  42 

Land  &  Sea,  church, 
»50 

Landing  Place  Monu- 
ment, 465 

La  Parisienne  Rotis- 
serie,   22 

La  Petite  Bretonne 
(res't.),  23 

Latham,  Hotel,  9,  210 

Lathrop,  F.,  214  * 

l.auber,  J.,  208 

Laurel  Hill,  Camp,  356 

Laurens  St.,  158 

Law  Dept.,  xxvi 

Lawrence,  Capt.  J., 
grave,  135 

— ,  W.  v.,  res.,  332 

Lawton,  Louisa,  153 

I-,awyers'  Club,  73 

Lazarri's  Res't,  (Staten 

Is.),  451-52 
Leake  &  Watts  Orphan 

Asylum,  255,  262,  267 
Leary,  Comtesse,    home, 

172.  333 
— ,  Geo.,  res.,  333 
Leather     goods,     shop, 

77 
Le   Brun,   M.    &  Son, 

206 
Le   Chat  Noir    (res't.), 

24 
Lecuycr  (res't.),  23 


Leeds,    Mrs.    Wm.    B., 

res.,  332 
Lefever,   M.,   411,   414, 

415.  416 
Lefferts  Museum,  237 
Lehigh    Valley    R.    R., 

38 
Leidy,  J.,  bust,  279 
Leight  St.,   159 
Le  Marquis  (hotel),  9 
Lenox,  J.,  grave,  152 
Lenox  Ave.  Bridge,  352 

—  Collection        (Assyr- 
ian), 244 

— ^  Library,  330. 

—  Lyceum,   214 
Lent e Hi,  Leo,  259 
Leonard    St.,    158 
Leonori      (apt.     hotel) , 

Leopardi,  A.,  479 

Leroy  St.,  161 

Leslie,     Frank,     grave, 

386 
Letter  boxes,   45 
Lewis,  Mrs.  E.  A.,  417 
— ,   R.   C,  res.,  333 
Lcwisohn,  A.,  res.,  330 
— ,  P.,  res.,  332 
Lexington     Ave,,     221- 

23,  337 
Libbey,     L.     J.,     home, 

422 
Liberia,  consul,  91 
Liberty,  Cafe,  25 

—  Is.,  105 

—  Theatre,  56,  169 

—  Tower,   131 
Libraries,  85-86 

L  i  b  r  a  ry    (Columbia), 

265-67 
Liederkranz    Club,    74 
"Life,"    offices,     182 

—  in    N.     Y.,     xxxix- 
xli 

"Light  House,"  223 
Lighting,  52 
Lincoln      memorial 
(B'klyn),    407 

—  Park  (Newark),  478 

—  ScL,   239 

^Theatre,     Loew's, 

60,  239 
Linens,    shops,    77 
Linnaeus   Bridge,    381 
Lion  d'Or   (res't.),  23 
Liquor   shops,   28 
Lispenard's      Meadows, 

158 
Little    Church    Around 

the  Corner,   181-82 


INDEX 


495 


— Hungary   (rcs't.)i  25, 

152 

"—  Italy,"  223 

—  Re8*t,  24 

—  Theatre,  56 
Livingston,    P.,    grave, 

345 
Livingston   Hall,   273 
Locker,  A.,   217 
Locks,     Mossman    coIi 

lection,    197 
London    Terrace,    233 
Loeser's    (dept.    store), 

418 
Loew's   Royal   Theater, 

417 
Long    Branch,    N.    J., 

118 
steamers,  44 

—  distance  telephones, 
52 

—  Island,    Battle,    398- 

99,  423 
City  Terminal,  39 

Long  Is.  College  Hosp., 
412 

Histor.  Soc.  Lib., 

86 

R.  R.,  Pcnn.  Ter- 
minal, 37 

R.  R.,  ticket  of- 
fice, 40 

Longacre  Hotel,  11,  172 

—  Square,  170 
Longfellow,     Rev.     S., 

Loomis  Laboratory,  325 
Loop  Subway,  35 
Lopez,  C,  A.,  207,  468 
Lorain,  R.,  169 
Lorber's    (res't.),    20 
Lord,  /.  B.,  207 

—  &  Taylor's  (dept. 
store),  76,  184-85; 
res't.,  25 

Lorillard   Mansion,  381 

—  Snuff  &  Tobacco 
Co.  Bldg.,  455 

Lorin^,  F.  L.,  res.,  329 

Lorraine  (hotel),  10 

Lost  and  Found  Dept., 
2 

Lotos  Club,  6s,  73,  230 

Love  Lane,  410 

Low,  A.  A.,  410 

Low,  W,  H.,  182,  476, 
478 

— ,  Seth,  410;  res.,  334 

Lcwell,  Guy,  147 

—.Mrs.  J.  S.,  memo- 
rials, 229 


Lowell  Hall,  276 
howrie,   345 
Luc  car  di,  V.,  428 
Lucco    (res't),   23 
Lucerne    (hotel),    12 
Liichow's  (res't.),  33 
Lukeman,  A.,  122,  207, 

242,  426 
Luna  Park,  447 
Lutheran  churches,  80, 

82 
Lyceum     Theatre,     57, 

171 
I^ydig    Memorial    Arch, 

367-68 
Lying-in  Hosp.,  89»  224 
Lyric  Theatre,   55,    169 

M 

McAIpin,      Hotel,      10, 

166;   res't.,  20 
McAuIey's   Mission,   81 
McBean,  137 
Macchiavelli,  bust,  266 
Machinery,  Club,  136 
McClure  Bldg.,  215 
McComb,  I.,  159 
— ,  J.,  141,  159 
McComb's  Dam  Bridge, 

352;  360 
McCreery's      (dept. 

store),  75;  res't.,  25 
Macdonald,  J.  W.,  208 
McDonald,    J.    W.    A., 

303 
— ,  /.  W.  H.,  342 
Macdougal  Alley,  176 
—  St.,  176 
MacDowell     Club,     64- 

65,  74 
Macedonia  Hotel   (City 

Is.),  392 
McElfatrick  &  Son,  J. 

^A'  455    ^ 
McGown's  Pass,  305 

Tavern,  ?os 

McKensie,  R.  T.,  468 
McKim,  C.  F.,  178,  327 
— ,  Mead  &  White, 
116,  146,  169,  175, 
183,  184,  197.  198, 
204,  210,  232,  265, 
270,  271,  329,  332, 
334,    386,     387,    425, 


icmi 
178 


McKinley  Sq.,  3^5 
Macmillan     Co.     Bldg., 


MacMonnies,    F.,  147, 

168,     186,     234,  307, 

420,    422,    424,  428, 
435 


McMurty,    G.    G.,    res., 

3|9 
MacNeil,  H.  A.,  175 
Macy       Manual       Arts 

Bldg.,  27$'76 
Macy's     (dept.     store) , 

75,    167;   res't,  25 
Madison  Ave.,  205-214, 

334-35 

Bridge,  352 

M.    E.    Church, 

334 

Pres.      Church, 

206-7,  334 

—  Square,  164 

Garden,  209 

Magazines,  87-88 
Maggi  (res't.),  24 
Magni,  183 
Magonigle,    H.    V,    B., 

Maiden  Lane,  131 
Mail  &  Express   Bldg., 

137 

—  (paper),  87 
Maillard's    (tea    room) , 

26 
Maine      (battleship), 
441;  tablet,  36s 

—  Monument,    Nat., 

174 
Maison  Arthur   (res't), 
23 

—  Frangaise,  274 

—  Jeanne  (res't).  22-23 

—  Mollat,    (res't),   23 
Majestic,  Hotel,  12,  243 

—  Theatre  (J.  C),  455 
Mall  (Central  Pk.),  303 
Manhattan  Beach,  448 
— ,  Borough  of,  XV 

—  Bridge,  11 1 

—  churches,  80-81 

—  Club,  73,  209 

—  College,  257 

—  Co.  Bank,  128 

—  Cong.   Church,  240 

—  Eye,   Ear  &  Throat 
Hosp.,  89 

— ,     Hotel,     10,     212; 
res't,  21 

—  Life    Insur.    Bldg., 
126 

—  Opera  House,  232 

—  Sq.  Hotel,  243 

—  State  Hosp.,  109 

—  Subwav  stations,  31 

—  Transfer,  38 

—  Water  Tank,  147 
Manhattanville,  343 
Manicures,  17 
Mansfield,  Fort,  xh 


4g6 


Maplewood  Field  Club. 

MaragSolli,   f..   ■?» 
Marble     Cemttery,     N. 

—  "Coitegiale    Church, 

—  Hill,  3sfi.  3S7 

—  HouM.  356 
Marbridge  Bldg.   167 
MSrcelior    (re8^>.  as 


Marie    Ant 
Mari6.  Pen 


Martha  Washin 

HOKI.   T4.    J" 

Morii9"y,  P-.   ' 


—  Tomb.  43? 

Mary      EliiB[>rth      (tea 

Maryland       Monument. 


Club.  jaS 
le.  438 
V   Hasp.,  1 


e  Ellioll  Thea 
dl,    H.    W,.    1 


Co.,  Li 

:'(BronxPk-). 

—  (Brooklyn). 

—  (Cenlral  Pk. 
Men's    funiishir 

utile  Libri 


Merchau 

—  Club.' 

—  E<cha 


Milligan  Ct.,  saj 
Milliken.  S.,  res..  334 
■■Millionaires'       Club," 

■■—Row."  129 

Mills,     Mrs.     O.,    res.. 

Mills'' Bidg.,  ij8,  iM 


•  39 


Can- 


—  Epis.   Churches,  80, 

—  Epis,  Church,  N.  Y. 

-'«*;.';„„,,.. 

Metropole  Hotel,  230 
Metropolitan   Club,    73. 

—  H( 


:    lusu 


Bldg. 


Middle'  Dutch    Churc 
ijS-.Sj;  lahlet.  .30 
Midland  Beach,  45a 
—  IJolf  CItib,  69 


Moffat.  J.. 
Mohawk,  H 


Montau 
— Theal 


Montenegro,  consul.  91 
Monument  Road.  158 

";"".  'c"''(f..%on,., 

"gai.  rpV=77 

— "— .'&^Co„  ii8 
[organ  Collection,  te- 
tiles.  1541  gems,  298- 

Mor^n,  J,  P.,  Library. 

;ue,  old,  !2f 
liugside       H  eights. 


f'%>..  .„ 


Mrior  buuea,  28-19 
Slotordome        (Sliieps- 

head  Bay),  70-1,  448 
Molorinit,  70-71 

Molt,  Dr.  v..  h^ 

—      Heraorial      Dutch  I 

Rerd  Church,  ]«« 

Mt,  Morris  A^  333 


—  Clly  Bank,   tag 

—  Dfmocratic  Club,  73 
League    (baMhall), 


(Ntwark),  . 

—  St.  Vinceni 


— .  S.,  4J3 

Mueller.  A.  M.  J. 

Mulberry  Bend.  i,_ 

Municipal    Art    Gallery 

(IrviSg  H.  S.),  64       . 

—  BIdg.,  146 

—  Sanitarium,    N.    Y. 

c.  joiiit 

Murray,    H.    A., 

— f^ary  L..  table 
Murray  Hill,  an 
Hotel,  10 


Music  pub1iEhers,j8 
Mutuaf      Life      Iniur.  i 
Bldg,,  130 

N 

NaegU'a  Res't    CJ.  C.).;- 

458 
Nanstadt.  grave,   134 
Nantucket  T-iBhtBhip, 

Na^Iitana,    RiMoran 


avy  Yard  (Brooklyn), 
«9-44' 

-  Settlement,        Jacob 


-  Eng^and^  Monument 
Co..  387 

-  Hampshire,       tablet. 


R.  R.,  3; 
-  Thought 


-  Ave.      Epi». 
burch,  435 

-  Canoe  Club,  68 


Central  & 

il    R.    R. 


ern  R.  R.,  ticket  of- 

fieei,  40 
Polyclioic  Hoip., 

ig 

-—  Press  Club.  73 
-  —    Public    Library, 

186-96 
-_  Hiding  Club,  71 
■    Rowing    AiBoe., 

-—  Soc,  Lib.,  a6,  179 

.    Susquehanna    h 

Weslern  B-  R.,  37 
-—Telephone  Co.,  si 
Theatre,    Loewa, 

— '■  Trade  School,  338 


-  Univ.        Bldg. 
lowntown),    i75-'76 

-  Univ.  Lib.,  86 

oiton  r'  R..  38 

-  Yacht    Club.    73. 
-J8 

—  8%,'  10s,  118 
Neivman,  A.  G.,  480 
Newsboys*    Lodging 


a„ 


Norway,  conauE,   91 
Notre   Dame  de 
Lourdes,  ChuTcb.  zj6 


Obelisk,  304 

69- ro,  74 

—  Parkway.  447-448 
O'Coimor,  A..  184,  aij, 

-r-i.j,,... 

O'Donntmn,      W.      K., 

384,  430 
Oertei,  J.  A.,  198 
"O.  rfmry."  hom.,  an 
(lid     Dominion     S.     S. 

Co.,  43 

—  First      Church 
(N.*ark),  4:-6.77 

■' ■•      Dutch      Eef, 

Church,  411 

—  Rom  Manor  House, 
384 

OliTcr  St.  Bap.  Church, 

Oiympia  Bldg.,  ,70 
Oiympio  Theatre,  61 

,  BTtlyn,  400 

Onderdonck,   Bishop, 


aiir   Lady   of   Esperan- 

za.  Church,  351 
of  Grace,  Church 

(Hoboken),  45? 
of    the    Rosary. 

Mission,  110 

P 

Pabst's  (res'l.).  y 

—  Grand  Circle  Rest., 

PaXrd  Commercial 

Packer,'    Mrs.     H.     L., 

Packer  *  Colleg.      Inst.. 

Palnel  i'om,  home.  i6i 
Paintings,      exhibitions, 

63-6S 
Palace  Theatre    (photo- 

p'»J"^Al 


Paradise  Pk.,   14<> 


Inn,  393 

—  Pres.    Church 

(New'k),  4?o 

—  Row,  139 

Bldg.,  140 

Park  Theatre,  58,  174 

—  Theatre,  former,  140 
Parkhurat,  Dr.,  cbnrch. 

Parks,  Dept.,  ixviii 
Parritli,  M.,  168 
Parlridat,   W.   O.,  3ji. 


Pastime   Athletic    Club, 

Pal  Chen  Place,  mi 
Patterson,    N.    J.,    iij, 

118 
Pfltii's  (res't.),  !4 
Paulus      Hook     Monu- 

Pavilinn    Hill    (S.    I.). 

—  Hotel  {S.  I.).  450 

"jn"'H,'.  «3 


— ,    Cf 
Peabody  &  Steal 


H..    I 


eg      Woffinglon 
room).  16 
■ekin  (res'l.),  14, 


Pell  &  Corbelt,  ill 
Pell's  Point,  Battle,  joi 
Pen  &  Brush  Club,  6;, 


wie's  Line  43 
Theatre,  Jacob  Ad- 
er's,  6i 

:in,  C.  P..  res.,  33J 
y,  R.  H..  168 

;oat  Une/ilj 
nscy.  College,  ^39, 

Phi'Gamma  DelU  Frst. 


Philipse,     Manor    Hall. 
Ph^iSfSTc.  S.,  res..  333 


rhiUips  Park   (New'k), 

Philosophy.  Hall.  =6B 
Phipps.  H„  res..  333 
Photoftraphtr.,  78 
Photoplay  houses,  58-61 


-&  Surgeons,  College, 
-^t  lurgtons'    Club. 


Fkard,  M,.  113 
Pkcirilli.  A.,    17 

PLckhardt."  Wm. 


Piping  Rock  Club,  74 
plainfield,  N.  J.,  nS 
PlaimanK.  E..  218 
Hall,  C.  A..  iiS. 
Playhouse    (tbiatre). 

"P'uyers''     (club),    7, 


-"l-rospecl  Pk.).  - 
-  (Williamsburg), 


Poe,  Virginia,  jfis 
Poe  Cottage.  ,ii5»-63 
~  Park,  36a 
Polhsmus      Dispmsar 


INDEX 

Political      Equality 

League,  Jia 
Polloct,    Mrs.    Wm., 

Polo,"?  I 

—  Grounds,  66.  353 
Folvtechnic   Institute 

(■^•klyn),  .04-5 
■Pomander  Walk,"  2i 
Ptnd  (Central  Pk.),  31 

-  ■    S8 
:,    Townsend,    eo 
e,  360 


Med,      Sch.      & 

Hosp.,  N.  Y.,  i35 
Post  Office,  44-4? 
(Brooklyn),  40:- 

46;  foreign,  47 
Postal  Life  BIdg.,  130 
—  Telegraph-Cable  Co. 


Poughkeepsie,  iia 
P™erJ,  H.,  4JS 
Pt-sii,  P..   188 

Pratt' Institute,  43! 
Lib,,  86,  439 


George,    Hotel, 
ince*to"N.  J.,  1.6 


!  Proctor's  Fifth  Avei 

j      Theatre,  i5s 

I—    i2sth    St.    Thea' 


-  Museum  of  Art.  4 
Sciences  (S.  I.),  4So 

-  School  No.  t,  150 
No.     1     (B'klyn), 


Puck  Bide.,  153 
Pnlitier,  J,.  173 
Pulitier  BIdg.,  139    . 
—  Memor.    Founlai 


QueensW.ro 
—  Market, 
O-Kick.   E.   . 


Club,  7i,   ?4,   197 
Raknt.A.  D.,  171 
Rghway,  116 
Railroad  Club,  73,  136 
Railroad    Suiioiis,    t-i, 

RalfrMds  not  touching 

N.  Y.  C,  40-4" 
— .  urban, 


"Raini 

6 
Rami 


CCenlr; 


Pk.>. 


Ravrnhail,  Hotel,  447 

Reade  St.,  158 

Real    estate ,    Valuatja 

of,    XXX 

Recreation    Piers,    iii 


Red   Hook  Lane,  4 
Reform  Club,    73 
Reformed   cburches, 


Rrij;  R.,  ;o8,  Vj^-' 

Remington   (hotel),    . 
Dnmck.      "jamtt.     J 

~,%pe«wan 6r  Oae 

387 
HepubUc    Theatre,    ; 

Club,    7' 
Ml.      Pri 

•).  3S3 


Revenues,    Sources 
Reynold^    Mrs.    J. 


ao,    4S8,    465,    468, 


RichinoDd  (bolel),   it 

-(S.  I.).  451 

— ,  Borougb     of,      xvi, 

— ■'^.'ciub,  ?4 

—  Co.    Country     Club, 
RickUr,  C.  L.,  304 
Riding,  7. 

—  and     Driving     Club, 

RiU-Carlton  'llotel.    j, 
River«de     6rive,     113. 

—  — '■Juduct,  34a 


Rivington  St.,  151 
Robhm»,H.D.. res..  33,1 
Robert      Treat      Hole] 
(Newarit),  461,  464 
Roberts,  H..  456 
Roberts.    M.    O.,    mau- 
soleum, 386 
Roberlton,  R.   H.,   lOJ, 

Robin8,^'s.    M.    (rea'O, 


Rockefeller     Inst 

33S 
Roeking     Stone 

Raebiing,  J.  A., 
—.  tV.,  140 


Rogers,  I.,   ia8 
428;  459  ' 

Sw^'GLiSry,"  xxvi 
.._._  d   (hotel).  13 
RoTna  (rei't).  a3 
Roman  Cath.  churches, 

Rooi  Tree  Inn,  i6 
"     isevelt,  Theodore, 
irthplace,  164' 


Root,  EKhu,  res.,  33a 
Rose      Garden      (Pros, 
Pk.),  4aa   ^ 
'(.«;,  G..  4=8 

RV^kaihC?.  W..  taa. 

Rupperl.'  J.;'re^  333 
Russell    Sage    Founda- 


—  lympbooy^Soc.,  63 
"       >,  G.,  173 

■rs  I'jjllege,  116 

irches,  S3 

r,  Mrs.  Th.,  res., 

Rya'n,  Th.  F.,  res.,  330 

s 

d  Heart.  Convent, 

SaVgkill  Coif  Club,  70 
'■--e,      Mrs.       Russell, 
12:  home,   199 
ors-    Snug    Hnrbor, 

St" "Agnes  Chanel,  143 

—  Aloysius  Cliureli 
(J.  C),  458 

■  Alphonsus,     R.      C, 
Church.  160 
Ambrose  ChE|M^!,=6i 
-Andrew  (h^iel).  ^40 


Church     (S.     I.), 

Golf  Club,  ?o 

R.  C.  Chnrch.  i« 

— "-Epii.      Church 

(Broni).  364 
Maternity     HoBp., 

336 

—  AnsgsrLus     Cbap«l. 

—  Augustine   Chapel, 

—  —  Church, 

—  Banholom 
66 


w  (clul 


—  Boniface  Chapel,  afio 
^-  ChrysosIom'sChaptl, 

— ''?;olumb«  Chapel, 

—'—Church  (Newark), 

—  Denis     Hotel.     8; 

—  Dominic,   Diooaitery, 

4?6 

Saint  -  Eaprit.     Church, 


INDEX 

-  John'i    Chapel,    158- 

-  — Church  (Newark), 
46  s 

^M.      E.       Church 

(Wmaburg),  442 

P.       E.       Church 

(Yonkers,)  394 

Pk.,  159 

Summer    Home, 

-Joseph's  Church 
(J.  CO,  457 

Hospital  (Yon- 
kers). ]04 

-Louis  Hotel,  iSa 

-Luke's  Chapel,  161 

Church,  169 

Hoap.,  89,  155,56 

M.       E.      Church 

(N««-ark),  479 

-  Mark's  Hotel.  +00 

(church),*  5?  """^ 
-Martin  of  Tours 
Chapel,  261 

-  Mary  the  Virgin. 
Church.  172 

-Mary's  Church 
(Newark).  4?6 


164.    178, 'iOi,    ais, 
"34,    276,    30a,    3", 

St.  c'avdeii,  L.,  12a 

St.  George  (dnh),  66       - 

—  Hub^rl  '(hotel),  '"*  ' 

—  Ignatius,  Church,  a 

-%mn,  BIdg, 
Chapel.  1 

—  —  Church,  ■ 
Hotel,  1 


—  K^chael,        Con< 

-Vichael,    Chu 
(Newark).  469 


n  Chui 


C.       Church 


-'^egis  H 


UiUiU 


ScbooL  3g,| 
Sairaae  Gym. 
Savarin  Res' 


^''eYi^ 

\i 

■"ho 

Park 

pital, 

ScheJmcr 

hiru 

*H 

II. 

Schicktt 

<re 

'Si 

23-24 

h^i:y 


p.  E.  Chui 

Pro.   Catl 

(B'klyn),  ioi  I 

—  Jean     le     Baptist  e. 
Church,  337 

—  John  the  Divine,  Ca- 
thedral,  255,   2SJ-fij     J 


.-Thfalre.fi'                ^ 

Sheltering      Arms 
(home),  343 

t^'S^'U.%.. 

sAllk     M.     M.. 

—  Guardian   Soc,   He- 
Sh™*i.'''Mrs.     F.     J. 

388;  memorial.  157 

sXZAi'r.  F.  0..  4S6 

.£■:;!■■!!..  «... 

SheVman^Sq,.  240 

Slosson's  (biUUrds),  68 
Slovak  churches,  83 
Smith,     C,     B.,    tablet. 
33< 

Setrider.  J..  4i6 

Smith,  W,  W,,  136,  237 
Smith,  Th.,  (^Jlfection, 

Soulplurt.  B'klyu   Ium- 

Sherry.''' V.,'lomb,  152 

Museum,  4^8 
Sea  Bathing.  72 

Sherry's  (res'l).ji,  197 
bhip  Canal.  U.  S.,  357 

5|i;fe'!Jl 

l:fc"?«...., 

Shops,  74-79 
Fur  individual  tkept. 

"Soda      Water      Foun- 

£?^i;i;f;Ml[«. 

^■kr/d',  'h"'m'T» 

lains,"  a6-i7 
Soldiers'  &  Saik>r>'  Me. 

|:SSk^i"e-"^'?va.^' 

Shreyer's  Hook.   1.9 
jhubert  Theatre,  s6 

morial  Arch,  420 

_,^i;-^Seatre,    David 

I<4rii-5'°,i".' 

Kessler'B.  6=. 

Siekfes,  "  Maj.       Gen,, 

sl"-i;,»W,  ,... 

—  Church,    Seienl.st, 

home,  177 

—  Unitarian    Church 

Sigel,   Gen.    R.   statue, 

Somirindyke    House, 

E'klyn).4'3-'3 

Sight-seeing  yachts,  36 

,-  '*"        „      . 

Seeing  N^  V.  Automo- 

Silsbe'B  Kes't.,  400 
Silver    Lake   Cemetery, 

Seniprini  (res't),  23 

Sonoma  Hotel,  173 

Sons  of  the  Revolution. 

'■Senfca  VLlUge,"  329 

'24 

lSr;r.":;'i'io.i".. 

'SirK^onl.  E..  .83;' W8, 

South  American  Steam- 
ships,  42-43 

-E.  S..  T4e 

~  Beach   {S,   I,).  45". 

i™¥.Fs' ■&"■.. 

Simpson,  '}.    W.,    tes.. 

—■"church,    D.    Refd, 

60,  342 

—  Regt.     Armory,     72. 

,,5T  memorial.  305 
S^enly-first    Regiment 

Sim»?  Dr.  J.  M..  statue 

—  Fifth  Ave..  158 
-P»;t^P™    Church 

s^sr<v.'A'>.... 

Seville  (hotel).  9 

Siwanoy  Country  Club, 

-i  "Sh"?e    Fittd    Club, 

—  —  Bap.*'Chiireh,  421 

—  Blvd..  359 

El«vated.  33-34 

Spam,  consul.  92 

Seymour  (hotel).  .. 

Sixty-ninth    Regl.    Ar- 

Spanish bankers,  90 
—  churches,  83 

Shakespeare,  ^tue.  303 

mory.  221 

^;il  .  ,.  c. 

Special  Delivery  letters. 

,     I'. 

■'"'n.   ^.!^^g!^'n^'"^" 

Speedway.  353 
Spenc^.  B.  E.,  188 

"^iang  Berg.  333 

Spencer  Memorial  Pres. 

ablet, 

Church,  414 
=.peyer -School,  276,  343 

'—"    s'latue"(B'klyn), 

Spingler     family.      178- 

Sylia- 

407 

si^ivonic  rtislrict.  33B 

■Sp^K  Hou«,"  337 

,48 

«lo™e,   Mrs.  Jn,.   res,. 

Sporting   goodl,    shops. 

Sports,  6;-7i. 
Spoutina  Spring,  356 
Sprina  St.,   160 
--  — l-reB.  Church.  16 
Spujien  Duyvil.  113 
Creek.  356 


Bldg..  140 

sfaSaJ'd  Oil  BIdg,.  1; 
—  Theatre.  60 


-,    Old,    3Di 

Stalen  Iiland,  104,  44S 

Stationers,  78-79 
Staliona,  railroad,  i-a 
Statue  of  Liberty,  105 
Ptauch's  Re>'t,  447 


Stitli.  Sir  J..  J« 
Steeplechase  Park.  . 
Sleeplechasmg,  7o 

St^n«ay'&  si"''  ' 
SleiDway  Tube,  3a..»"_ 
Stepping  Stonei  Light, 


Stern's     (dept.     Btore), 

Sievins  Castle,  459 

Ste«nson,''     R.        i- 

Blewart  feidg..  MS-46 
Slickney,  Sfta.  J.,  re»-. 


"StiUHutll"   (broni. 

Sixrralt.  C,  394 
Stock  Exchange.  ia6 
5(orfiiariJ,    F.    t-.    ' 

home,  3ia  ' 
— .  E.  S.,  333      . 
Sloktt,  F.  »'.,  iSs 


SlBughton.  A.  A.,  i}0 
Stranahan,    J.     S.    T., 

Strand  Roof  (res'!.).  " 

—  Theatre.  59,  '7' 
Strangers.  Church,  81 

—  "Gate,"  330 
"tralford   (hotel),  9 

trauB  Pk.,  141-42 
Ireel  Cars.  34-3! 
-   Cleaning   Dept.. 

,  tPee"t».'  N,  and  S.,  3 
Striker.     Gen.,     grave 

Strykers  B»y  Mansion 


—  So..  223 
Sub-Treasury  Bldg.,  U. 

S.,  117 
Subways,  30-31 
Suey  Jan  Low   (res't), 

Suites,  15-16 
SulliTan,  T.  D.,  131 
-jn"  (paper),  87 

Bldg.,  T39 
Sunday  observance.  ) 


Taltyrand,  401 
any  llflll, 


Taylor,  W'  S.,  183 
Tea  Rooms,  36 
Teachers'  College,   3?s 


■Telegram"  (paper),  87 


eT^enlral  Pk.), 


Swedish  churches,  83 
-    ■  burne  la.,  104 

eriand.  coanil,  9a 
,....n  Place.  341 
.   Symphony    Soc.    of   N    ' 

Synod  Ho  UK,  a6i 
Syrian  churches,  83 


h'evgJty'*     Th«a- 
lOD  Bidg.,  276 


INDEX 

nwai'l,  34-35 


Preal^'Wob!,  "(ahlet,  4 
rrenlon,  N.  J..  116 
'Tribuns"    (paper). 


Jniied  Bk.  Blda..  135 
-  Chsritie»  BldTg..  ai; 


TLckew,  theatre,  S3  163-64 

Tiffany,  L.  C,  aol  

Tiffany  &  Co..  il* 


(Newark),! 


Oub, 


-  Ctapel,  161 


J„ :  rurini,  . 
Turkey, 
Turkish 


MS        :—  Hall,  270 
,.     _     Uving- —  His.  Bridge,  353-54 
68,  iSj^  ao4      !—  of_  Penn.  Club,  73-74 

1™-n(.   iji" 


Trust  Co.  Bldg.,  (N. 
rokio   (rts'l!),  n,  I?! 


-03.  aaB,  41", 
R.  M.,  *  Co 


n  St.,  336 

Twelfth  Ave.,  238 

—  Nigtit  Club,  158 

—  St.  School,  179 
Twenty-second        Re 

Armory,  354 
Twenty-third  Regt.  . 


478 


Van   Cortlandt    Man 
.^— "p^./7i,V3-64 


c   Club    (B'li 
>'(N.  Y.  OJ- 


Collcctian      (paint- 
ings), 313.  3'M8 


I  Vanderbilt      Hoti 


Vm^jf  Fair  (tea 


Van  Neet,  39a 
Van  Norden  Trus 

yin%U.  Jn.  J.. 
Vin     ReaswUer 

Kii.  a 

Vantine'i     (grJeni 

pwds),  1B5 
Van    Twiller,    Wi 


Viaduct,  as* 
Victorim  BMg.,  165 

—  Theatre,  168 
\'iele.  Gen.  E.  L.,  30 

vinMnt  "Fe"»r. 

Church,  337 
Volunteer    PLre    Dep 

N.  v..  341 

—  Firemen's     Aisoc, 

Ton       Humboldt,       A.. 

busts,  279.  301 
i-OB  Miller,  P..  119 

w 

Wadleigh,  Lydia.  179 
Wadswonh,  Tort,  xviii, 

-'?-1,ea.re,  .„ 

Waffle  Lunch  and  Tea. 

as 

Wainwtigbt.    Bishop, 

wSdoS-inoria        (ho- 
■  tel),   7,   i8j-3;   res't., 

Watktr,    H,     0.,     208, 

Wall   St.,'ia6-2!» 
Wallabout  Canal,  44a 

—  Market,  441-4^2 
Wallack'a  Theatre,  16I 
Wallick's  Hotel,  ir,  17 
Walton  (hotel),  la 
Wanamaker-s    (dept. 


INDEX 

Ward,    J.    Q.    A.. 


,   West  Broadway,  158 
-  End  Ave..  ajy-JS 

Church,  i40 

Theatre,  lie*'*, 

1  —  i'armt  Road,  390 

--  Point,  HI 
.   —    Shore    R.    R.,    116; 
1        Terminal,    37;    ticket 

-"sidI'Mrt   (J.    C), 


4S8 


-  &  Lsfayelle,  sUtue 

-.'^Vin.  Lanier,  Collec 

WaXnllo^'n  Arch,  173 
,  —  Bridie,  353 


igh    Sch., 

—  Utt  Bldg,,  135 

—  Marktt,  136 

—  Mews,  176 
"irk  (Newark),  46s 


-  Sq.,   I 


'*-?6 


-  Playeri 
"■lealre.  d. 
r   Color   Cluh,   K, 


-  Theal 


Vans,   jT,    ,67!    grave, 
\!tib  Academy,  361 


Weed,  Ella,  175 
Weehawken,  460 
Weequahic  Park  (New- 
ark),  480 


Weill     Fargo     Expren 
Co.,  so 
=ndel,    J.    G.,    home. 


■  Club 
_.  Ave 
y  Club, 


—  Racing  Aim 

-  Village^  390 


390 


Westmoreland       H 

163 
White.    Stanford, 


Whitehall  St..  123,  11 

Whitman,     Walt,     4( 

wt?tney,    H.    P.,    re 

330 
— ,  >.,  resj  3J2 
Whittier  Had,   176 
Whyte'a  Res't..  20 


Wid( 


Davii 


ilcoit   (hotel),  a  Weidbonsr,   no 

cub.,     tfollee-  "World"  (piper),  87 
._._.,__.,    ...     •Vonnssr.  Mrs,  I.,  re« 


tion  (paintings), 

318-21 
II' Biff,  A.  a.,  337 
Woman's  Hosp.,  14^ 

—  Sufirage  Party,  : 
Women  &  Cbildren, 

lirmary,  N.  V.,  325 
_    Painters    &    Sculp- 

lofs'  Assoc,  64 
Women's  cloihing,  79 

—  hotels,  13-U. 

—  Municipal  Lragu«,74 

—  Pen  S  Brush  Clnb, 

—  "oiv.   Club,  74,   222 

Wood,  Mayor  F.,  gra' 
Woodlawn       Cemetei 


Wright.  Fort  H.  G.   . 


"y!  W-  C.  k."  '(Bit. 
lyn),  419 

"y.  W.  C.  A."  (New- 
ark)   4« 

Yale  dlub,  73 

Ye   Oide    Chop   House. 


s