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Rider's 

WASHINGTON 

A  Guide-Book  for  Travelers 


RIDER'S  GUIDES 

Ready: 

Rider's 

NEW  YORK  CITY 

Rider's 

BERMUDA 

Rider's 

WASHINGTON 

In  Preparation: 

Rider's 

NEW  ENGLAND 

Rider's 

CALIFORNIA 

Rider's 

FLORIDA 

Rider's 

WEST  INDIES 

Rider's 

WASHINGTON 

A  GUIDE  BOOK  for  TRAVELERS 

with  3  maps  and  22  plans 
Compiled  under  the  general  editorship  of 

FREMONT  RIDER 

BY 
DR.    FREDERIC    TABER   COOPER 


NEW  YORK 

HENRY  HOLT  AND  COMPANY 
1922 


yi 


Copyright,   1922 

by 

The  Rider   Press,  Inc. 


The  contents  of  this  volume  are  fully  pro- 
tected by  copyright,  both  in  the  United 
States  and  in  foreign  countries,  and  infringe- 
ments thereof  will  be  vigorously  prosecuted. 


Printed  in  the  United   States  of   America 


PREFACE 

Following  New  York,  Washington  of  all  our  cities  is 
most  obviously   deserving  of  adequate  guidebook  treatment. 

Soon  after  the  issuance  of  "Rider's  New  York  City," 
the  first  in  this  series  of  "American  Baedekers,"  therefore, 
editorial  work  was  begun  on  the  Washington  volume.  The 
war  temporarily  necessitated  some  postponement  of  plan,  but 
actual  field  work  was  completed  early  this  3^ear. 

The  problems  met  with  in  the  preparation  of  the  "New 
York"  volume  had  to  be  solved  again  with  the  "Washington" 
guide  in  peculiarly  accentuated  form.  New  York  is  in  a 
constant  state  of  flux;  but  the  last  three  years  in  Washington 
have  witnessed  an  unprecedented  growth,  with  attendant  dis- 
location and  relocation — all  particularly  disconcerting  to  the 
maker  of  guidebooks. 

The  bibliography  of  Washington  is  of  course  extensive, 
but  authorities  of  equal  standing  disagree  astonishingly  when 
one  attempts  to  run  down  specific  antiquarian  details.  Fol- 
lowing the  precedent  of  the  New  York  volume,  moreover, 
every  endeavor  was  made  to  secure  information  or  verification 
of  every  item  at  first  hand,  and  this  has  meant  an  amount 
of  first  hand  research  not  easy  to  appreciate. 

As  in  the  case  of  "Rider's  Bermuda,"  the  actual  labor 
of  compilation  in  the  present  volume  has  been  largely  in  the 
hands  of  Dr.  Frederic  Taber  Cooper,  to  whose  painstaking 
enthusiasm  and  critical  sense  whatever  excellence  it  may  pos- 
sess is  largely  due. 

The  Editor  desires,  however,  to  express  his  indebtedness 
to  the  many  others  who  have  assisted  in  the  work  of  compila- 
tion, and  particularly  to:  Miss  Florence  A.  Huxley,  who 
read  much  of  the  volume  in  proof  and  also  prepared  the 
index ;  to  his  sister-in-law,  Mrs.  Lyman  B.  Swormsted, 
formerly  treasurer-general  of  National  Society  of  the 
Daughters  of  the  American  'Revolution  and  a  Washingtonian 
of  many  years  standing,  who  went  over  the  data  on  the  D. 
A.  R.  headquarters  building  and  gave  invaluable  advice  in 
the  annotation  of  the  material  on  Shops,  Clubs,  Hotels  and 
other  sections  of  the  introduction ;  to  Dr.  Herbert  Putnam, 
Librarian  of  Congress,  and  H.  Ft.  B.  Meyer,  Chief  Bibli- 
ographer, who  assumed  responsibility  for  the  correc- 
tion of  the  material  relative  to  that  'building;  to  the 
Rand,   McNally   Co.   for  their   co-operation   in  the   making  of 


viii  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

the  maps  and  for  the  use  of  two  of  their  floor  plans ;  to  his 
cousin,  Mr.  Gerrit  Smith  Miller,  Curator  of  the  Department 
of  Mammals  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  for  most  cordial 
assistance  in  securing  co-operation  in  the  correction  of  the 
great  mass  of  material  relating  to  that  institution  and  its 
various  museums ;  to  Biro.  Anthony  S.  F.  M.,  of  the  Commis- 
sariat of  the  Holy  Land,  for  the  revision  of  material  relative 
to  the  Franciscan  Monastery;  to  Dr.  William  Tindall,  for 
many  years  secretary  to  the  Commission  of  the  District  of 
Columbia,  and  an  old  iresident  and  enthusiastic  student  of 
Washington  lore,  for  his  courtesy  in  reading  and  revising 
many  of  the  street  sections,  as  well  as  the  historical  and  other 
general  sections ;  to  C.  Powell  Minnigerode,  Director  of  the 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery,  who  revised  the  Corcoran  data,  and  to 
Elliott  Woods,  the  Architect  of  the  Capitol,  who  did  the  same 
work  for  that  building;  to  his  brother-in-law,  Major  Stuart 
C.  Godfrey,  C.  E.,  U.  S.  A.,  for  suggestions  on  material  relat- 
ing to  the  War  Department  buildings;  to  Lieut.  Col.  C.  O. 
Sherrill,  C.  E.,  U.  S.  A.,  for  reading  the  White  House  ma- 
terial, that  building  being  under  his  jurisdiction;  to  W.  A. 
Reid,  Trade  Adviser  of  the  Pan-American  Union,  who  read 
proof  on  the  Pan-American  Building ;  to  Miss  Ellen  M.  Brown, 
John  Keller,  of  the  staff  of  the  Washington  Evening  Star,  and 
Robert  B.  McClean,  Business  Manager  of  the  Consolidated 
Press  in  Washington,  all  of  whom  assisted  in  the  compilation 
of  the  Preliminary  material ;  to  Herbert  P.  Williams,  who  gave 
helpful  aid  in  the  collection  of  material ;  to  George  F.  Bower- 
man,  Librarian  of  the  Carnegie  Public  Library  of  Washington, 
for  his  unflagging  interest  and  many  helpful  suggestions  as 
well  as  for  the  special  privileges  he  extended  in  the  use  of 
the  library's  unique  collection  of  Washingtoniana ;  and  to 
Leonard  C.  Gunnell,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  who 
generously  proffered  much  valuable  advice. 

Acknowledgment  should  also  be  made  of  the  help  received 
from  a  large  number  of  local  histories  and  monographs  {See 
the  Bibliography)  ;  also  more  specifically  to  the  following 
works,  which  have  been  of  special  service :  The  two  recent 
standard  Histories  of  Washington,  by  W.  B.  Bryan  and  Dr. 
William  Tindall,  respectively;  the  Records  of  the  Columbia 
Historical  Society,  which  have  been  of  great  aid,  especially 
regarding  the  old  residential  section;  Early  Days  of  Wash- 
ington, by  Sally  S.  Mackall,  containing  many  sidelights  on 
early  Georgetown  history;  and  Mount  Vernon,  by  Paul  Wil- 
stach,  a  wellnigh  indispensable  source  book  of  the  local  history 
of  the  home  of  Washington. 


PREFACE  ix 

To  be  a  guide-book  of  genuine  and  practical  use  to  the* 
traveler  it  is  of  course  necessary,  as  was  remarked  in  the 
preface  to  the  "New  York"  volume,  to  discriminate,  and  this 
means  not  merely  to  select  the  good  from  the  bad,  but  to  en- 
deavor to  give  each  proper  values.  With  every  effort  to 
make  just  appraisal,  error  of  judgment  and  differences  ot 
opinion  are  of  course  natural.  It  need  hardly  he  said,  however, 
that  no  remuneration  of  any  sort,  direct  or  indirect,  has  secured 
favorable  notice  in  this  guide-book.  As  in  the  Baedeker 
series,  which  has  been  frankly  taken  as  a  model,  the  better 
class,  or  especially  noteworthy,  has  been  indicated  by  an 
asterisk   [*]. 

The,  Editor  is  still  sure  "that  only  one  who  has  attempted 
to  compile  a  guide-book  out  of  whole  cloth,  as  it  were,  com- 
pletely appreciates  the  complexity  of  the  task  and  the  infinite 
opportunity  for  error  which  it  affords.  He  realizes,  therefore, 
the  imperfections  and  hiatuses  of  this  work  more  clearly  prob- 
ably than  will  its  severest  critics  ;  and  he  will  most  cordially 
welcome  corrections  and  suggestions  from  any  source  for  its 
improvement  in  succeeding  editions."  That  this  volume  is 
not  fully  worthy  of  its  sulbject  he  has  no  doubt;  but  it  is  at 
least  offered  as  a  sincere  tribute  "to  the  capital  city  of  which 
he,  as  an  American  citizen,  is  justly  proud. 

The  Editor.    , 
Glen  Tor-on-Hudson 
May,  1922 


To 

M.  G.  S. 

Loyal  Washingtonian 

With  the  affection  and  best  wishes 

of  the  Editor 


ABBREVIATIONS 
USED  IN  THIS  VOLUME 


acad. — academy 

adm. — Admiral 

Amer. — American 

apt. — Apartment 

arch. — architect 

assn. — association 

Bap. — Baptist 

bk. — bank,  book 

bldg. — building 

blvd. — boulevard 

bur. — bureau,  burial 

cem. — cemetery 

ch. — church 

co. — company,  county 

coll. — collection,  college 

com . — c  o  mm  od  o  re 

comm. — commission 

commr. — commissioner 

Cong. — Congregational 

ct. — court 

D.  C. — District  of  Columbia 

dept. — department 

descrip. — description 

dist. — district 

E. — east 

engr. — engineer 

ethnol. — ethnological 

fed. — federal,  federation 

gall. — gallery 

H.  S.— High  School 

Hgts. — Heights 

inst. — institute,  institution 

is. — island' 

L.— left 

lbn. — librarian 


lib. — library 

loc. — location 

M.  E. — Methodist  Episcopal 

med. — medical 

mem. — memorial 

mi. — mile,   miles 

mon. — monument 

mus. — museum 

Mt. — Mount 

N. — north 

nat. — national 

p. — page,  pages 

P.  E. — Protestant  Episcopal 

P.  S—  Public  School 

pk. — park 

pi. — place 

pres. — President 

Presb. — Presbyterian 

Pi:. — Point 

R. — right 

R.  C. — 'Roman  Catholic 

R.  R. — railroad 

Ref  'd. — Reformed 

regt. — regiment 

res. — residence 

res't. — restaurant 

S. — south 

sculp. — sculptor 

sec. — secretary 

soc. — society 

sq. — square 

St.— street 

U.  S. — United  States 

univ. — university 

W. — west 


TABLE   OF  CONTENTS 

♦ 
Introduction  page 

I.    General   Description   of   Washington    xvii 

a.  Topography  of  Washington,  xvii;  b.  The  Geology 
of   Washington,   xx. 

II.     The  History  of   Washington    xxiii 

III.  The   Public   Administration    of   Washington    . .  xxxvi 

IV.  Washington    Bibliography     xxxviii 

Preliminary  Information 

I.    Arrival  at   Washington    i 

a.  At  the  Railroad  Station,  i ;  b.  At  the  Steamboat 
Docks,  2;  c.  Division  of  Material  in  this  Guide 
Book,   2. 

II.     Hotels  and  Other  Accommodations   2 

a.  General  Information,  2;  b.  Large  and  Expensive 
Hotels  of  the  First  Rank,  3;  c.  Eastern  Section: 
Capitol  Grounds  Vicinity,  4;  d.  Central  Section: 
Pennsylvania  Avenue,  4;  e.  Residential  Section,  5; 
f.  Furnished  Rooms,  5;  g.  Suites  and  Furnished  Apart- 
ments,   6;    h.    Boarding   Houses,    6. 

III.  Restaurants    and    Tea    Rooms 6 

a.  Capitol  Grounds  Section,  7;  b.  Central  Section: 
Pennsylvania  Avenue,  7;  c.  Residential  Section,  8; 
d.  Tea  Rooms  and  Cafeterias,  9. 

IV.  Urban    Travel     10 

a.  Surface  Car  Lines,  10;  b.  Taxicabs.  20;  c.  Motor 
Bus    Lines,    20;    d.    Sight-seeing    Cars,    21. 

V.     Postal  Facilities ;   Telegraph  and  Cable   Offices    . .     22 

a.  Postal  Facilities,  22;  b.  Telegraph  and  Cable 
Offices,    23. 

VI.     Theatres,  Concerts  and  Other  Places  of  Entertain- 

Iment     24 

Concerts  and  Other   Musical   Entertainments,   26. 

VII.     Sports,    Games,    etc 26 

VIII.    Clubs     29 

IX.     Shops  and   Stores    3 l 

X.     Churches,    Religious    Services    33 


xiv  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

PAGE 

XI.     Libraries  and   'Reading  (Rooms    37 

XII.     Miscellaneous   Services   for  the  Traveller   40 

a.  Foreign  Ernbaissies  and  Legations,  40;  b.  Banks 
and  Trust  Companies,  42;  c.  Hospitals,  421;  d.  Baths, 
Barber  Shops,  e-tct.  43 ;  e.  Steamship  and  Steamboat 
Lines,  43;   f.  Newspapers  and  Periodicals,   44. 

XIII.     Planning    a   Washington    Stay 44 

a.  Distribution  oif  Time,  44;  b.  A  Fourteen  Days' 
Itinerary,    46;    c.    A    Five    Days'    Itinerary,    49. 

Washington  Northwest — The  Central  Section 

(From  the  Capitol  to  the  White  House') 
I.     The*  National  Capitol    50 

a.  History,  .50;  b.  The  Building  and  Its  Approaches, 
53;  c.  The  Rotunda  and  Dome,  60;  d.  The  Supreme 
Court  Rooms,  66;  e.  The  Senate  Wing,  69;  f.  The 
Ground  Floor,  79;  g.  The  House  Wing,  83;  h. 
Statuary   Hall,   88. 

II.     Pennsylvania    Avenue    from    the    Capitol     to     the 

White    House    96 

III.  The    White    House    in 

IV.  Other    Buildings    in    the   Executive    Grounds    122 

a.  The  Treasury  Building,  122;  b.  The  State,  War 
and  Navy   Building,    126. 

V.     The    Old    Residential    Section    131 

(From   C   Street  to  Judiciary   Square) 

VI.     The    Modern    Shopping   District    141 

a.  F  Street  from  North  Capitol  Street  to  the  Treasury 
Building,  141;  b.  The  Section  Immediately  North  of 
\F  Street,  149;  c.  The  Section  Between  F  Street  and 
Pennsylvania   Avenue,    151. 

Washington  Northwest —  The  Residential  Section 

(From  the  Executive  Grounds  to  Rock  Creek) 
I.     Seventeenth    Street    South    153 

a.  Seventeenth  Street  from  Pennsylvania  Avenue  to 
Potomac  Park,  153;  b.  The  American  Red  Cross  Build- 
ing, 154;  c.  D.  A.  R.  Memorial  Continental  Hall,  15s; 
d.   The   Pan    American    Union    Building,    162. 

II.     The  Corcoran  Art  Gallery    171 

III.  Lafayette    Square    184 

IV.  Sixteenth    Street    to    Piney    Branch    Bridge    195 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  xv 

PAGE 

V.  New  York  Avenue  from  the  White  House  to  the 
Naval    Hospital     209 

VI.  Pennsylvania   Avenue   from    the   White   House    to 
Rock    Creek 215 

VII.  Other    Residential    Avenues    and    Streets    219 

a.    Vermont   Avenue,   219;   b.   Connecticut   Avenue,    222; 

c.  Massachusetts  Avenue,  225;  d.  The  Numbered 
Streets  East  of  Sixteenth  Street,  230;  e.  The  Num- 
bered Streets  West  of  Sixteenth  Street,  234;  f. 
I  Street,  235;  g.  K  Street  from  nth  Street  to  Rock 
Creek,  237. 

Washington  Southwest  and  the  Mall 

I.  The  Mall  from  the  Botanic  Gardens  to  Fourteenth 
Street     240 

a.  The  Botanic  Gardens,  241;  b.  The  Grant  Memorial 
Monument,     242;     c.     The     Bureau     of     Fisheries,     245: 

d.  The  Army  Medical  Museum,  247;  e.  The  Agricul- 
tural Department  Buildings,  252. 

II.     The     Smithsonian     Institution — The     Smithsonian 

Building    255 

III.  The    Smithsonian    Institution — The    Natural    His- 
tory   Bui  Idling 260 

(The   "New"  National  Museum) 

a.  General  Description,  260;  b.  The  Vestibule  and 
North  Pavilion,  263;  c.  The  World  War  Historical 
Collection,   266;   d.   The   National   Gallery   of   Art,   271; 

e.  East  Wing — Collection  of  Paleontology,  280;  f.  Ex- 
hibits of  Ethnology,  288;  g.  Zoological  Exhibits,  303; 
h.    Miscellaneous    Collections,    310. 

IV.  The    Smithsonian    Institution — The    Arts    and    In- 
dustries   Building     •  •  •  •  322 

V.     The    Smithsonian    Institution — The    Freer    Gallery  339 

VI.  The    Washington    Monument    342 

VII.  From  the  Monument  Grounds  to  the  Army  War 
College    348 

VIII.  The    Lincoln    Memorial     353 

Washington  Northeast 

I.     North   Capitol    Street    356 

(From  the  Capitol  Grounds  to  Michigan  Avenue) 

II.  From   the   Capitol   Grounds  to  the   Columbia  In- 
stitute        363 


xvi  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

PAGE 

Washington  Southeast 

I.     The  Library  of  Congress   369 

a.  General  Description  and  Approaches,  370;  b.  The 
Main  Entrance  Hall,  375;  c.  The  Mural  Paintings, 
377;   d.    The   Rotunda,    398. 

II.     From   the    Library   of    Congress    to   the    Congres- 
sional   Cemetery     403 

a.  Washington  Southeast,  403;  b.  The  Congressional 
Cemetery,    408. 

III.     AnacO'Sitia     ._. 412 

The  Northern  and  Western  Suburbs 

I.     Bladenstiurg,   Brookland   and  Vicinity    414 

a.  Bladensburg,  414;  b.  The  Catholic  University  of 
America,    416;    c.    The    Franciscan    Monastery,    423. 

II.     Georgia  Avenue  to   Takoma  Park    430 

III.  Connecticut  Avenue   from   Rock   Creek  Bridge  to 
Chevy    Chase     440 

IV.  Massachusetts    Avenue    from    Rock    Creek    to    the 
District  Line   442 

V.     The  National  Zoological  Park    444 

VI.     The   Cathedral  of   St.   Peter  and   St.   Paul    455 

VII.     Georgetown     462 

a.  M  Street  and  the  "Court  End,"  463;  b.  Georgetown 
College,  467;  c.  The  Convent  of  the  Visitation, 
473;  d.  Georgetown  Heights,  476;  e.  Oak  Hill  Ceme- 
tery   479- 

VIII.     Cabin   John    Bridge    and  the    Great    Falls   of    the 

Potomac 483 

a.  Cabin  John  Bridge,  483;  b.  The  Great  Falls  of 
the    Potomac,    484. 

The  Virginia  Suburbs 

I.     Mt.    Vernon     487 

a.  History  of  Mt.  Vernon,  491;  b.  The  Mansion 
Home,    498;    c.    The    Grounds,    501. 

II.     Arlington    Cemetery    504 

III.  Alexandria     512 

IV.  Pohick    Churc'h 523 

Index 


INTRODUCTION 

I.     General  Description  of  Washington 

Washington,  the  Capital  City  of  the  United  States,  and 
according  to  the  latest  decennial  census  the  fourteenth  largest 
in  population,*  lies  in  the  83°  51'  N.  lat.  and  77°  W.  long., 
calculated  at  the  Capitol,  it  is  40  mi.  distant  by  rail  from 
Baltimore ;  228  mi.  from  New  York;  11 10  mi.  from  New 
Orleans;  and  31 18  mi.  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  situated  in 
and  coextensive  with  the  present  District  of  Columbia,  com- 
prising that  portion  of  the  original  ten-mile  square,  N.  of 
the  Potomac  River,  which  was  left  after  the  retrocession 
of  the  southern  portion  to  Virginia.  Its  area  (including  land 
and  water)i  is  approximately  6g>j4  sq.  mi.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  northwest,  northeast  and  southeast  by  the  State  of  Mary- 
land, and  on  the  southwest  by  the  high-water  line  on  the 
Virginia  shore — since  the  whole  width  of  the  Potomac  River 
is  reckoned  territorially  within  the  District. 

a.     The   Topography  of   Washington 

Washington  is  exceptionally  fortunate  in  having 
been  almost  completely  planned  in  its  present  form 
before  any  of  its  streets  were  actually  laid  out  (p.  xxviii). 
Consequently,  unlike  London  and  Paris  and  the  downtown 
portion  of  New  York,  no  part  of  it  grew  up  haphazard,  pre- 
serving the  memory  of  ancient  roads  and  foot-paths.  It  is 
the  result  of  an  orderly  and  consistent  design,  combining  the 
simplicity  of  the  rectangular  system  with  the  picturesqueness 
of  spacious,  radiating  avenues  and  splendid  vistas.  It  has 
been  variously  described  as  a  chess-board  overlaid  with  cart 
wheels,  and  as  Paris  superimposed  upon  Philadelphia.  In 
drafting  this  plan,  the  natural  formation  of  the  locality  was 
dleverly  utilized  to  the  best  possible  advantage.  The  general 
features  of  the  plan  were  later  applied  in  extending  the 
street  system  over  those  portions  of  the  District  of  Columbia 
outside  of  the  original  city  limits.  Towards  the  north,  and  espe- 
cially above  that  part  of  the  city  which  was  formerly  George- 
town, is  the  highest  ground  within  the  District.  The  southern 
section  of   the   city  along  the   Potomac  is   a   low   level   plain 


*  By  the  census  of  1920.  the  population  of  Washington  was  437-571. 
while  that  of  its  nearest  rival.  Newark,  was  only  414524.  and  Cin- 
cinnati 401  247.  Recently,  however,  the  population  has  fallen  off  con- 
siderably,   and    the    city    has    probably    dropped    to    16th    position. 


xvlii  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

(p.  xxii)  ;  but  towards  the  east  it  rises  abruptly  in  a  ninety- 
foot  terrace,  the  highest  eminence  of  which,  now  known  as 
Capitol  Hill  (p.  50),  seemed  foreordained  to  be  the  site  of 
the  Capitol  building,  whose  noble  dome  dominates  the  land- 
scape from  every  side.  Radiating  from  this  center,  North 
Capitol,  East  Capitol  and  South  Capitol  Streets,  together 
with  the  succession  of  parks  on  the  W.,  known  collectively 
as  The  Mall  (p.  240),  mark  the  four  cardinal  points  of 
compass  and  divide  the  city  into  four  sections  or  quarters, 
designated  respectively  as  N.  W.,  N.  E.,  S.  W.  and  S.  E. 
(initials  which  should  be  added  to  any  Washingon  address, 
in  order  to  avoid  confusion;  if  they  are  omitted,  the  N.  W. 
section  is  assumed  to  be  meant). 

The  streets  parallel  to  North  and  South  Capitol  Sts.  are 
named  from  the  ordinal  numbers :  East  and  West  First 
Street,  East  and  West  Second  Street,  etc.,  the  furthest  num- 
bered street  to  the  E.  being  31st  St.  and  to  the  W.  26th  St., 
within  the  old  City  limits.  The  numbers,  however,  continue 
in  regular  order  beyond  the  Anacostia  River,  to  the  E.,  up  to 
63d  St.,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  the  District,  and  beyond  Rock 
Creek,  to  the  W.,  up  to  52d  St.,  along  the  E.  boundary  of 
the  Receiving  Reservoir  Grounds.  (Some  of  the  latter  streets 
have  not  yet  been  cut  through.)  The  streets  parallel  to  East 
Capitol  St.  and  the  Mall  are  named  from  the  letters  of  the 
alphabet :  North  and  South  A  Street,  North  and  South  B 
Street,  etc.  It  should  be  noted/  that  there  is  no  A  Street 
N.  W.,  or  A  St.  S.  W.,  since  the  Mall  occupies  the  whole 
space  between  North  and  South  B  Sts.,  W.  of  the  Capitol 
Grounds.  Because  of  the  danger  of  confusion  with  I  St., 
the  letter  J  was  omitted;  and  because  of  the  like  possibility 
of  mixing  up  I  St.  and  1st  St.,  Washingtonians  frequently 
write  the  former  "Eye  Street."  The  last  lettered  streets 
within  the  city  limits  are  W  St.,  on  the  N.,  and  V  St.,  on 
the  S.  (at  Buzzard  Point,  E.  of  the  War  College).  Beyond 
the  Anacostia  River,  however,  the  lettered  series  terminates 
with  W  St. 

The  proposition  that  has  frequently  been  made  of  re- 
christening  the  lettered  streets  with  a  series  of  names  (pre- 
ferably of  American  Statesmen),  arranged  alphabetically 
after  the  manner  of  Boston's  familiar  Arlington,  Berkeley, 
Clarendon,  Dartmouth,  etc.,  Sts.,  has  never  been  seriously 
considered.  But  the  visitor  may  remain  for  months  in  Wash- 
ington without  even  noticing  that  this  is  precisely  the  method 
followed  in  the  naming  of  east-and-west  streets  lying  beyond 
North  and  South  W  Sts.     For  instance,  going  N.  on  Georgia 


TOPOGRAPHY  OF  WASHINGTON  xix 

Ave.  we  reach,  beyond  W  St.,  a  series  beginning  Adams, 
Bryant,  Channing,  etc.,  Sts.,  and  ending  with  Webster  St., 
beyond  which  a  f.ccohd  series  begins  with  Allison.  Buchanan, 
Crittenden,  etc.,  Sts.,  closing  with  Whittier  St. ;  while  a  third 
series  follows,  consisting  this  time  of  botanical  names  in 
place  of  famous  Americans,  namely :  Aspen,  Butternut,  Cedar, 
etc.,  Sts.,  up  to  Poplar  St.,  in  the  extreme  northern  corner  of 
the  District.  Similar  series  will  be  found  in  the  section  N. 
of  Georgetown,  in  the  Benning  section,  in  Anacostia, — in 
short,  in  practically  all  the  suburban  sections.  The  advantage, 
of  course,  of  this  system  is  that  it  enables  any  one,  by  a  little 
calculating,  to  determine  approximately  the  house  numbers 
beyond  any  given  street.  Thus,  since  the  first  number  beyond 
N.  W  St.  is  2200,  then  the  first  number  beyond  Webster  St. 
should  be  4400,  and  beyond  Whittier  St.  6600.  In  point  of 
fact,  'however,  some  confusion  has  been  caused  by  the  in- 
clusion in  some  of  these  series  of  both  an  I  and  a  J ;  while 
in  at  least  one  case  the  series  does  not  stop  with  W,  but 
includes  a  Y  (Yuma  St.,  in  the  Tenleytown  section). 

The  monotony  of  the  chequer-board  pattern  is,  as  already 
indicated,  broken  up  by  a  multitude  of  small  parks  and  circles, 
from  which  broad  avenues  radiate  at  a  great  diversity  of 
angles.  These  avenues  bear  the  names  of  the  several  states, 
the  principal  and  more  central  avenues  being  naturally 
named  from  the  thirteen  original  colonies,  while  many  of  the 
largest  and  most  important  western  states  must  be  contented 
with  representation  in  the  remoter  districts.  Pennsylvania, 
as  the  "Keystone  State,"  gave  its  name  to  the  city's  principal 
thoroughfare,  and  direct  line  of  communication  between  the 
Capitol  and  the  White  House,  intersecting  at  the  former 
point  with  A?eu>  Jersey,  Delazvare  and  Maryland  Avenues,  and 
with  projected  lines  of  Vermont  and  Connecticut  Aves.,  which 
are  interrupted  by  Lafayette  Square.  Other  important  points 
of  radiation  are:  Waslii)igton  Circle  (p.  218),  Dupont  Circle 
(p.  229),  Thomas  Circle  (p.  228),  Mt.  Vernon  Park  (p.  225), 
and  Lincoln  Square   (p.  366). 

What  impresses  the  stranger  in  Washington,  next  to  the 
continual  surprise  of  new  and  suddenly  revealed  vistas,  is  the 
spaciousness  of  all  the  streets  and  avenues.  Of  the  lettered 
streets.,  the  average  width  is  90  ft. ;  only  three  are  less  than 
80  ft.,  while  the  widest,  North  K  St.,  is  147  ft.  Of  the  num- 
bered streets,  sixteen  range  between  100  and  112  ft.  N.  and 
S.  Capitol  Sts.  are  130  ft.  wide,  E.  Capitol  St.  and  N.  16th 
St.,  160  ft.  each. 

House  numbers  were  first  adopted  by  the  city  in  1854, 
and  revised  in   1869  on  the  basis  of   the   so-called   ''decimal 


xx  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

system,"  the  numbers  starting  from  the  central  dividing  lines 
marked  by  the  Capitol  Sts.,  and  starting  a  new  hundred  beyond 
each- street  crossing.  Accordingly  even  a  stranger  can  readily 
determine  the  location  of  any  given  address :  for  instance, 
815  North  K  St.  would  lie  between  8th  and  9th  Sts.,  and 
similarly  422  West  4th  St.  would  lie  between  D  and  E  Sts. 
In  regard  to  the  house  numbers,  it  should  be  noted  that 
in  the  case  of  the  lettered  streets  the  even  numbers  are 
on  the  side  nearest  the  Capitol,  while  in  the  case  of  the  num- 
bered streets  the  even  numbers  are  on  the  side  furthest  from 
the  Capitol.  Thus,  for  example,  304  C  St.  N.  W.  is  on 
the  S.  side,  while  714  F  St.  S.  E.  is  on  the  N.  side.  The 
numbering  of  the  avenues,  while  somewhat  more  confusing  at 
first,  becomes  quite  simple  if  one  remembers  that  there  are 
no  avenues  which  run  precisely  Northeast  or  Northwest,  but 
that  they  all  slant  at  a  small  angle  with  either  the  lettered 
or  the  numbered  streets.  Accordingly  the  house  numbers  of 
\he  avenues  obey  respectively  the  rules  for  the  streets  with 
whose  direction  they  most  nearly  coincide.  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  for  instance,  running  almost  E.  and  W.,  has  its  even 
numbers  on  the  S.  side  west  of  the  Capitol,  and  on  the  N. 
side  east  of  the  Capitol,  after  the  manner  of  the  lettered 
streets ;  while  Connecticut  Ave.  N.  W.,  running  nearly  N.  and 
S.,  has  its  even  numbers  on  the  W.  or  further  side,  following 
the  rule  of  the  numbered  streets. 

One  last  source  of  confusion  is  caused  by  certain  streets 
bearing  half-numbers,  such  as  4%  St.  In  such  cases  the 
house  numbers  do  not  begin  with  even  hundreds,  but  with 
so-many-hundred-and-fifty ;  for  instance,  the  building  at  the 
S.  W.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  4^  St.  is  not  No.  400 
but  No.  450. 

b,     The   Geology   of   Washington 

The  District  of  Columbia  lies  within  that  lengthy 
section  of  the  Atlantic  coast  consisting  of  a  broad 
slope  that  descends  from  the  Appalachian  Mountains  to  the 
ocean  and  continues  beneath  it.  This  slope  comprises  two  di- 
visions of  radically _  different  origin,  but  with  an  indefinite 
boundary:  1.  the  higher  western  portion,  known  as  the 
Piedmont  Plateau  and  underlain  by  very  old  rocks  which 
have  passed  through  many  changes  of  structure  and  position; 
2.  the  Coastal  Plain,  formed  of  numerous  layers  of  uncon- 
solidated sediments,  sand,  gravel  and  loam,  which  lie  almost 
as  originally  deposited. 


GEOLOGY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxi 

Accordingly,  the  geologic  formations  of  the  Washington 
district  fall  into  two  classes :  first,  the  ancient  and  highly 
crystalline  rocks ;  and  secondly,  the  unconsolidated  beds  of 
the  Coastal  Plain.  The  former  occur  chiefly  to  the  north- 
west and  southwest  of  Washington;  the  latter  lie  to  the 
south  and  east.  The  greater  part  of  the  city  proper  is  built 
upon  these  unsolidified  beds. 

The  Archaean  Rocks.  The  principal  varieties  of  rock  found  in  or 
near  the  District  of  Columbia  are  as  follows:  i.  Carolina  Gneiss, 
occurring  northwest  of  Washington,  where  it  may  be  seen  along  the 
gorges  of  the  Potomac.  It  consists  of  alternate  layers  of  gneiss  and 
schist,  varying  from  dark  bluish-gray,  when  newly  exposed,  to  green 
and  yellowish-gray  when  weathered.  2.  Granite  Gneiss,  of  which  there 
occurs  a  large  irregular  belt  between  Georgetown  and  Falls 
Church.  This  rock  is  similar  in  coloring  to  the  Carolina  gneiss,  but 
it  has  a  fine  and  uniform  texture.  It  is  the  result  of  metamorphism 
of  original  granite.  Complete  disintegration  of  granite  gneiss  pro- 
duces a  stiff  red  clay.  Fine  specimens  of  this  process  may  be  seen 
in  the  deep  road  cuts  between  Washington  and  Chevy  Chase  (.p.  12). 
3.  Diorite  and  Diorite  Gneiss.  The  largest  area  in  which  this  rock 
occurs  extends  N.  and  S.  through  Cabin  John  (p.  15);  the  second 
largest  stretches  N.  from  Georgetown.  It  is  an  igneous  rock  of  massive 
texture,  of  a  greenish-gray  shading  to  black,  the  green  being  more  pro- 
nounced in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  hornblende  it  contains.  The 
fact  that  it  cuts  through  the  Carolina  and  granite  gneiss  shows  it  to  be 
the  youngest  formation  of  the  three.  4.  Gabbro  and  Metagabbro. 
Gabbro  is  a  massive  rock  shading  from  dark  gray  to  black.  The  largest 
area  in  which  it  is  found  is  northeast  of  Cabin  John,  where  metagabbro 
(from  dark  olive  to  a  lighter  green)  also  occurs.  5.  Granite.  Three 
different  kinds  are  distinguished  in  the  Washington  district:  a.  the 
granite  occurring  in  the  beds  ot  granite  gneiess;  b.  a  series  of  granite 
dikes  that  cut  into  the  beds  of  Carolina  gneiss.  This  granite  is  com- 
posed almost  wholly  of  quartz  and  feldspar  and  is  of  a  very  light  gray 
tone,  weathering  almost  to  white;  c.  two  exposed  belts  in  the  basin  of 
Rock  Creek  and  the  quarries  on  Broad  Branch.  This  is  a  coarse  aggre- 
gate of  quartz  and  orthoclase   feldspar,   with  plagioclase  and  biotite. 

Coastal  Plain  Formations.  These  are  locally  of  far  more 
importance  and  interest  than  the  Archaean  rock  formations 
above  treated,  because  they  form  more  than  three-quarters 
of  the  area  of  Washington,  inclusive  of  much  of  the  sur- 
rounding territory.  One  important  fact  should  be  noted  : 
that  in  the  geology  of  this  region  the  strata  from  the 
Archaean  down  to  the  close  of  the  Mesozoic  period  are  lack- 
ing. There  are  no  traces  of  Permian,  Triassic  or  Jurassic 
remains.  The  unsolidified  Cretaceous  beds  rest  directly  upon 
the  Archaean  rock.  Geologists  distinguish  nine  distinct  layers 
of  these  unsolidified  deposits,  separated,  with  one  exception, 
by  long  periods  of  erosion.  The  separate  layers  are  not  of 
uniform  extent,  and  nowhere  do  all  nine  occur  superimposed; 
indeed,  as  will  presently  be  shown,  a  large  portion  of  the 
older  city  rests  upon  only  two  layers  of  deposit  with  the 
underlying   Archaean   rock.     Yet   all   nine    formations    occur 


xxii  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

within  the  District  and  exposures  o-f  them  may  be  seen  with 
comparatively  little  trouble. 

i.  Potomac  formation  (Early  Cretacecras) .  This  consists  of  clays 
and  sand  occurring  separately  and  in  all  proportions  of  mixture.  It 
occupies  the  surface  over  a  large  part  of  the  Washington  district.  In 
the  terraces  along  the  Potomac,  it  is  overlaid  by  the  Later  Columbia 
formation  (see  below),  and  in  the  high  terraces  W.  of  Alexandria  and  the 
north  portion  of  Washington  by  earlier  members  of  that  formation. 
To  the  E.  it  passes  beneath  the  later  Cretaceous  and  Neocene  forma- 
tions. It  lies  directly  on  Archaean  rock;  thickness,  o  to  650 
feet.  It  overlies  the  greater  part  of  the  N.  W.  region  beyond  Florida 
Avenue.  2.  Matawan  (later  Cretaceous).  These  are  deposits  of  black 
argillaceous,  carbonaceous  sands  and  contain  abundant  molluscan  fossils. 
There  are  excellent  exposures  in  road  tefute  from  Buena  Vista, 
to  the  R.  R.  cut  at  Collington,  and  on  the  road  from  Good 
Hope  to  Twining  (p.  413).  3.  Monmouth  formation  (later  Cretaceous). 
Brown  sands,  varying  in  thickness  from  0  to  25  ft.  Found  in  a  small 
area  near  Collington,  N.  E.  of  Washington.  4.  Pamunky  formation 
(Early  Eocene).  Sands  and  marls  of  a  bluish  or  greenish  black.  De- 
posits varying  from  o  to  120  ft,  in  depth  are  found  over  a  wide  area 
E.  of  Washington  where  they  are1  for  the  most  part  overlaid  by  Chesa- 
peake or  Lafayette  formations.  5.  Chesapeake  formation  (Miocene). 
Fine  buff  sands,  clays  and  diatonaceous  deposits,  from  o  to  80  ft.  in 
depth.  Most  of  its  area  is  overlaid  by  Lafayette  formation.  It  occupies 
the  greater  part  of  the  high  plateau  S.  of  Washington.  Small  masses 
underlaid  the  Lafayette  gravels  at  Soldiers'  Park  (p.  432),  and  between 
Georgetown  and  Tenleytown.  Good  exposures  occur  in  the  road  cuts  halt 
a  mile  north-northwest  of  the  Naval  Observatory  (p.  442)  and  in  the 
road  cuts  about  Upper  Marlboro.  6.  Lafayette  formation  (Pliocene?). 
Gravels,  sands  and  loams  on  an  extensive  plain  20  to  30  ft. 
in  thickness.  It  covers  the  high,  wide  plains  S.  E.  of  Washington 
and  caps  the  elevated  area  at  the  Soldiers'  Home,  and  the  ridge  extend- 
ing from  W.  of  Georgetown  to  Tenleytown.  The  deposit  is  mainly  quartzite 
gravel  and  loams,  but  contains  some  boulders.  7.  Earlier  Columbia 
formation  (early  Pleistocene).  This  is  a  deposit  of  gravels  and  loams 
found  on  the  higher  terraces,  with  an  almost  uniform  thickness  of  20  ft. 
-Occurs  along  the  terraces  of  the  Potomac,  Rock  Creek,  Anacostia  and 
Patuxant  Valleys.  The  most  extensive  deposits  are  W.  of  Alexandria 
and  in  Mount  Pleasant  (p.  13),  and  adjoining  upper  portions  of  the 
city  of  Washington.  In  the  N.  portion  of  the  city  and  up  the  valley 
of  Rock  Creek  these  formations  have  an  average  altitude  of  almost  100 
ft.  The  most  extensive  exposures  are  at  the  head  of  16th  St.,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  hollow  S.  of  Anacostia,  along  Fort  Foote  Road  and 
in  old  gravel  pits  on  the  Southern  R.  R.,  E.  of  Springfield  station. 
8.  Later  Columbia  formation  (early  Pleistocene).  These  deposits  occur 
in  the  lower  terraces  of  the  Potomac  and  its  larger  branches.  About 
the  city  of  Washington  the  more  extensive  Columbia  terrace  levels  are 
respectively  40  and  90  ft.;  the  Capitol  stands;  upon  the  western  edge 
of  a  prominent  outlier  of  the  90-foot  terrace.  This  formation  consists 
of :  a.  a  lower  series  of  gravel,  containing  a  heterogeneous  mixture  of 
pebbles,  boulders,  and  irregular  masses  of  crystalline  rocks  packed  in 
brown  sand  and  grading  up  into:  b,  a  brown  or  buff  massive  loam.  The 
finest  exposures  are  in  the  street  and  R.  R.  cuts  in  the  E.  and  N.  W. 
sections  of  the  city.  See  especially  Pennsylvania  Ave.  extended,  E.  of 
the  Anacostia  River.  Thickness,  25  ft.  9.  Post-Columbia  formation 
(Recent  Pleistocene).  This  formation  occurs  mainly  below  tide  water. 
To  the  S.  and  W.  of  the  Mall  a  large  area  has*  been  filled  in  from  this 
alluvial  deposit  in  the  river  bed,  part  of  which  constitutes  Potomac 
Park   (p.   352). 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxiii 

II.     The  History  of  Washington 

The  city  of  Washington  has  a  unique  history  among 
the  capitals  of  the  modern  world.  Unlike  other  cities,  it 
is  not  the  result  of  a  slow  growth  and  development  from 
some  original  modest  village,  but  like  Queen  Dido's  fabled 
Carthage,  a  bold  creation  with  its  first  stately  government 
buildings  rising  spectacularly  in  the  midst  of  forests,  swamps 
and  unploughed  fields.  In  the  years  immediately  following 
the  Revolutionary  war,  the  United  States  had  no  permanent 
Capital.  It  was  not  until  1783  that  the  idea  of  creating  a 
separate  national  district  in  which  to  erect  a  central  seat  of 
government  was  first  suggested,  as  a  consequence  of  a  serious 
riot  in  Philadelphia.  A  band  of  mutinous  soldiers  of  the 
American  army  entered  the  city  on  June  20th  of  that  year, 
marched  to  where  the  Continental  Congress  then  held  its 
sessions,  and  with  threats  of  violence  demanded  arrears  of 
pay.  The  pacific  guardians  of  the  Quaker  city  professed 
themselves  unable  to  cope  with  the  situation,  and  Congress 
was  obliged  to  retreat  to  Princeton,  N.  J.  This  insolent 
treatment  was  felt  deeply  by  the  members  and  they  agreed 
that  the  seat  of  government  should  be  removed  to  some 
spot  beyond  danger  of  a  repetition  of  the  occurrence.  Four 
months  later  the  first  public  proposal  to  acquire  territory 
for  a  National  Capital  was  heard  in  Congress  in  the  form 
of  a  motion  introduced  by  Elbridge  Gerry  of  Mass.,  recom- 
mending the  Potomac  region,  near  Georgetown,  as  one  of  the 
sites  worth  considering. 

This  resolution  was  carried  on  Oct.  7th,  but  subsequently 
amended,  and  later  repealed  in  April,  1784.  For  four  years 
the  plan  remained  practically  in  abeyance  through  opposition 
due  to  sectional  jealousy.  In  Oct.,  1784,  Congress  appointed 
Commissioners  authorized  to  lay  out  a  District  on  the  Dela- 
ware ;  and  in  Jan.,  1785,  similar  ineffectual  efforts  were  made 
to  locate  the  District  on  the  Potomac.  The  first  decisive  step 
was  taken  when  the  authority  to  acquire  land  for  a  Federal 
City  was  embodied  in  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States 
(adopted  in  Sept.,  1787),  article  I,  sec.  8,  clause  16,  which 
gives  power  to  Congress  to  "exercise  exclusive  legislation  in 
all  cases  whatsoever,  over  such  district,  not  exceeding  ten 
miles  square,  as  may,  by  cession  of  particular  states  and  the 
acceptance  of  Congress,  become  the  seat  of  the  Government 
of  the  United  States."  The  above  clause  in  the  Constitution 
fixed  definitely  the  size  of  the  new  District.  Appreciating  the 
advantage  of  having  the  Capital  within  its  limits,  Maryland, 


xxiv  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

through  its  legislature  Dec.  23d,  1788,  offered  to  Congre:s 
"any  district  (not  exceeding  ten  miles  square)  which  con- 
gress  may  fix  upon  and  accept  for  the  seat  of  Government 
of  the  United  States." 

This  precipitated,  in  1789,  a  stormy  debate  in  Congress. 
The  North  and  the  South  each  desired  to  secure  the  loca- 
tion of  the  Capital  within  its  limits.  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia. Germantown,  Havre  de  Grace,  Wright's  Ferry  and 
Baltimore  each  had  its  partisans.  The  passage  in  Sept.,  1789, 
of  a  resolution  to  the  effect  that  the  proposed  Capital  ought 
to  be  situated  in  Pennsylvania  on  the  Susquehanna,  gave 
grave  offense  to  the  South;  and  the  friction  engendered  was 
second  only  to  that  aroused  by  a  measure  proposed  by  Alex- 
ander Hamilton,  then  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  involving 
ths,  assumption  by  the  Government  of  the  debts  contracted 
by  the  several  states  while  prosecuting  the  War  of  Indepen- 
dence. The  southern  states,  fearing  an  increase  of  central 
power,  opposed  this  measure,  which  was  finally  defeated  by 
two  votes.  The  tension  resulting  from  these  two  debated 
questions,  of  assumption  of  debts  and  location  of  the  National 
Capital,  led  to  whispered  threats  of  secession  and  a  dissolution 
of  the  Union. 

Washington  had  from  the  first  eagerly  espoused  the 
scheme  of  creating  what  he  himself  chose  to  name  the  "Fed- 
eral City.''  and  it  was  largely  through  his  personal  influence 
that  the  project  had  been  so  persistently  brought  up.  The 
final  amicable  settlement,  however,  of  the  future  Capital's 
location  on  the  Potomac  was  due  to  a  compromise  effected 
by  Hamilton  and  Jefferson,  by  which  Jefferson  agreed  to 
persuade  two  of  the  southern  congressmen  to  vote  in  favor 
of  the  Assumption  measure,  in  return  for  which  Hamilton 
guaranteed  that  the  North  would  withdraw  its  opposition  to 
a  southern  location. 

In  accordance  with  this  agreement  two  of  the  Potomac 
members  changed  their  votes,  ithe  Assumption  bill  was  passed 
and  on  July  9th,  1790,  an  act  was  adopted,  popularly  known 
as  the  "Residence  Act,"  because  it  provided  for  a  permanent 
residence  for  the  United  States  Government. 

The  chief  provisions  of  this  Act  were:  1.  "That  a  district  of  terri- 
tory, not  exceeding  ten  miles  square,  be  located  as  hereinafter  directed 
on  the  river  Potomac,  at  some  place  between  the  mouths  of  the  Eastern 
Branch  and  the  Connogochegue,  be,  and  the  same  is  hereby  accepted 
for  the  permanent  seat  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States";  2. 
It  authorized  the  President  to  appoint  three  commissioners  to  determine 
the  location  of  the  proposed  district,  survey  its  territory  and  determine 
its  boundaries;  3.  These  commissioners  were  further  empowered  "to 
accept    such   quantity   of   land   as   the   President    shall   deem    proper,   and 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxv 

according  to  such  plans  as  the  President  shall  approve,  shall  prior  to 
the  first  Monday  of  December,  1800,  provide  suitable  buddings  for 
Congress,   the  President  and  the  public  offices. " 

In  point  of  fact  the  present  site  of  the  Capital  city,  in 
the  lower  portion  of  the  District,  was  Washington's  personal 
choice.  When  a  boy  he  had  seen  and  admired  it  while  riding 
across  country;  later,  while  serving  under  Braddock,  he  had 
camped  on  the  hill  where  the  Naval  Observatory  (p.  442) 
now  stands,  and  his  surveyor's  instinct  had  quickly  grasped 
the  possibilities  of  this  natural  spacious  amphitheater,  lying 
between  the  heights  on  the  north  and  the  widening  Potomac 
en  the  south. 

The  site  in  question  was  originally  the  centre  of  the 
territory  occupied  by  the  Powhatan  Indians,  a  powerful  sub- 
tribe  of  the  Algonquins  ;  and  it  was  here  in  the  council  house, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  what  is  now  Capitol  Hill  (p.  50), 
that  the  various  Algonquin  tribes  periodically  assembled.  The 
first  white  men  to  explore  the  Potomac  are  believed  to  have 
been  Spaniards,  on  the  strength  of  certain  references  in  early 
Spanish  records  to  various  expeditions  in  the  years  1566-70, 
to  places  identified  with  this  locality.  These  Spaniards  named 
the  Chesapeake  the  "Bay  of  St.  Mary,"  and  the  Potomac 
the  "Espiritu  Santo."  Probably  the  first  Englishman  to  explore 
this  region  was  Captain  John  Smith,  who  in  his  description 
gave  the  Indian  name  of  the  river  as  Patawomecke.  It  was 
not,  however,  until  near  the  close  of  the  17th  century  that 
the  first  permanent  colony  was  established  within  the  territory 
of  the  present  District  of  Columbia,  consisting  of  a  company 
of  Irish  and  Scotch  settlers.  One  of  these  early  proprietors. 
Francis  Pope  by  name,  called  his  place  Rome,  and  named 
the  little  stream  at  the  foot  of  his  hill  the  Tiber.  According 
to  tradition  he  was  a  visionary  man  and  predicted  that  a 
greater  capital  than  Rome  would  sometime  occupy  the  hill, 
and  rule  over  a  great  and  flourishing  country  in  the  new 
world. 

The  poet  Tom  Moore,  who  spent  a  week  or  more  in  Georgetown  in 
1804,  has  whimsically  satirized  these  local  traditions  in  the  following 
lines: 

"In  fancy  now,  beneath  the  twilight  gloom, 
Come,   let  me  lead  thee  o'er  the  second  Rome, 
Where  tribunes  rule,  where  dusky  Davi  bow. 
And  what  was  Goose  Creek  once  is  Tiber  now; 
This  embryo   Capital,  where  fancy  sees 
Squares  in  morasses,   obelisks  in   trees 
Which  second-sighted  seers,  even  now  adorn 
With  shrines  unbuilt  and  heroes  yet  unborn." 

The  name  Tiber  remained  attached  to  the  stream,  although  it  usually 
appears   as   Goose   Creek   in    the   reports   of   the   first   commissioners.      It 


xxvi  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

flowed  S.,  crossing  the  present  line  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  at  a  point 
marked  by  W.  2d  St.,  flowing  thence  westerly  along  N.  B  St.  until  it 
joined  the  Potomac.  This  portion  of  the  Tiber  was  utilized  as  part  of 
the  Washington  Canal,  which  in  course  of  time  became  an  open  sewer, 
and  finally,  about  the  middle  of  the  century,  was  covered  over,  forming 
the  beginning  of  the   city's  sewerage  system. 

Washington's  first  step  under  the  authority  invested  in 
him  by  the  Residence  Act,  was  to  pay  a  personal  visit  to  the 
proposed  site  of  the  national  capital,  accompanied  by  Jefferson 
and  Madison;  his  second  step  was  to  appoint  as  the  com- 
missioners required  by  the  Act,  Thomas  Johnson  and  Daniel 
Carroll  of  Maryland,  and  David  Stuart  of  Virginia. 

Thomas  Johnson  (1732-1819)  was  an  old  friend  of  Washington, 
who  had  served  under  him  in  the  war,  and  later  was  appointed  by  him 
a  judge  in  the  Supreme  Court  (while  still  acting  as  commissioner). 
David  Carroll  (1756-1829)  was  a  Representative  from  Maryland  and 
brother  of  John  Carroll,  the  first  Bishop  of  Maryland  and  founder  of 
Georgetown  Academy,  now  Georgetown  University  (p.  467).  Dr.  David 
Stuart  was  Washington's  family  physician,  who  married  the  widow  of 
John  Parke  Custis,  the  son  of  the  President's  wife. 

These  commissioners  proceeded,  in  accordance  with  the 
Act  of  Congress,  to  run  "certain  lines  of  experiment  .  .  .  tor 
the  purpose  of  determining  the  location  of  a  part  of  the  terri- 
tory of  ten  miles  square,"  and  with  the  approval  of  Wash- 
ington ran  the  lines  so  as  to  include  a  certain  area  to  the  south 
of  the  Potomac.  On  March  3d,  1791,  Congress  adopted  an 
amendment  authorizing  the  inclusion  of  this  portion  of  Vir- 
ginia, containing  the  town  of  Alexandria ;  but  it  was  provided 
that  none  of  the  public  buildings  should  be  located  on  the 
Virginia  side  of  the  Potomac.  Washington  thereupon  issued 
a  proclamation  fixing  the  boundaries  of  the  District  as 
follows  : 

"Beginning  at  Jones'  Point,  being  the  upper  cape  of  Hunting  Creek, 
in  Virginia,  and  at  an  angle  in  the  outset  of  45  degrees  west  of  north, 
and  running  in  a  direct  line  ten  miles,  for  the  first  line;  then  beginning 
again  at  the  same  Jones'  Point,  and  running  another  direct  line  at  a 
right  angle  with  the  first,  across  the  Potomac,  ten  miles,  for  the  second 
line;  then,  from  the  terminations  of  the  said  first  and  second  lines, 
running  two  other  direct  lines,  of  ten  miles  each,  the  one  crossing  the 
Eastern  Branch  aforesaid,  and  the  other  the  Potomac,  and  meeting  each 
other  in  a  point." 

Of  the  two  states  within  whose  boundaries  the  land 
required  for  the  future  District  was  situated,  Virginia  had 
already  passed  an  act,  Dec.  3d,  1789,  consenting  to  the  cession 
of  such  land  as  might  be  required  by  the  national  government. 
Maryland  followed  suit,  Dec.  19th,  1791.  They  ceded  only 
their  state  sovereignty.  The  ownership  of  the  land  was  to 
remain  vested  in  the  individual  owners,  with  the  exception 
of  such  part  of  the  property  as  the  United  States  should  buy 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxvii 

as  needed  for  government  purposes.  Consequently  one  of 
the  first  duties  of  the  commissioners  was  to  learn  what 
terms  they  could  make  with  the  private  owners  of  the  land. 
They  found  that,  while  there  were  altogether  19  original 
proprietors,  there  were  only  four  principal  landowners : 
Daniel  Carroll  (usually  called  "of  Duddington,"  to  distin- 
guish him  from  the  commissioner  of  that  name),  David 
Burnes,  Samuel  Davidson  and  Notley  Young.  The  holdings 
of  the  last  two  named  were  comparatively  unimportant.  Car- 
roll, however,  had  a  large  patrimonial  estate  called  Carrolls- 
burgh,  situated  along  the  Anacostia  River  or  Eastern  Branch, 
and  including  the  present  Capitol  Hill.  His  country  seat, 
Duddingtom  Manor,  foecarme  later  a  prominent  feature 
in  the  social  life  of  the  city.  David  Burnes,  the  second 
largest  holder,  was  an  illiterate  Scot,  whose  rude  log  cabin 
survived  until  comparatively  recent  years,  half  hidden  by  the 
opulent  Van  Ness  mansion  (p.  170),  the  home  of  his  only 
daughter  Marcia.  Burnes,  a  justice  of  the  peace  and  a 
tobacco  planter  in  a  small  way,  proved  the  most  stubborn  of 
all  the  land-holders.  He  owned  a  large  part  of  the  land  covered 
by  the  present  city,  including  the  sites  of  the  White  House 
and  Treasury  Building.  Even  Washington  was  at  first  unable 
to  do  anything  with  "obstinate  Mr.  Burnes,"  who  resented  the 
idea  of  having  "a  Capital  at  his  front  door" ;  but  finally 
brought  him  to  terms  by  bluntly  informing  him  that  the  Gov- 
ernment needed  his  land  and  was  going  to  get  it  one  way  or 
another  in  spite  of  him. 

After  Burnes  capitulated,  Washington  was  able  to  an- 
nounce the  terms  of  the  sale  (March  31st,  1791)  :  The  original 
owners  agreed  to  convey  to  the  Government,  free  of  cost, 
such  portions  of  their  farms  as  were  needed  for  streets,  parks 
and  other  public  reservations ;  and  to  sell  such  land  as  was 
needed  for  Government  buildings  and  public  improvements  at 
$125  per  acre.  The  remaining  land  was  to  be  laid  out  in 
building  lots  and  apportioned  equally  between  the  Federal 
Government  and  the  original  owners. 

"In  this  way,  without  advancing  a  dollar  and  at  a  total  cost  of 
$36,000,  the  Government  acquired  a  tract  of  600  acres  in  the  heart  of 
the  city.  The  10,136  building  lots  assigned  to  it  ultimately  proved  to 
be  worth  $850,000  and  now  represent  a  value  of  seventy  million  dollars. 
Shrewd  financier  as  he  was,  it  is  doubtful  if  Washington  ever  made 
another  so  good  a  bargain  as  that  with  Burnes  and  his  neighbors." 
(Rufus  Rockwell  Wilson,   in    Washington  the   Capital  City.) 

The  task  of  planning  the  Federal  City  was  entrusted  to 
Major  Pierre  Charles  L' Enfant,  a  French  engineer,  kinsman 


xxviii  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

of  D'Estaing,  who  had  come  to  America  in  the  train  of  Lafay- 
ette   and    had    fought    in    the    Revolution. 

It  was  L'Enfant  who,  at  the  age  of  22,  drew  the  plans  for  Ft. 
Mifflin,  on  the  Delaware,  famous  for  its  gallant  and  successful  resist- 
ance. His  skill  as  a  designer  of  fortiiications  attracted  the  attention 
of  Washington  and  won  him  the  appointment  of  Chief  of  Engineers, 
with  the  brevet  of  Major  of  Engineers.  Later,  at  Washington's  request, 
he   designed   the  insignia   of  the   Society   of   the   Cincinnati. 

During  the  spring  and  summer  of  1791,  L'Enfant  elabo- 
rated his  designs  for  the  projected  city.  With  prophetic  fore- 
sight, he  decided  to  plan  a  Capital  worthy  not  only  of  thirteen 
states  and  a  three  million  population,  but  of  fifty  states  and 
a  population  of  half  a  billion.  Jefferson,  thanks  to  his  service 
abroad,  was  the  only  member  of  the  Cabinet  then  possessing 
in  some  degree  a  continental  breadth  of  artistic  vision;  yet 
even  he  seems  to  have  wanted  the  city  laid  out  in  a  monoton- 
ous system  of  squares.  For  when  L'Enfant,  in  April,  1791, 
wrote  to  Jefferson  for  plans  of  the  principal  cities  of  Europe, 
in  the  hope  that  they  would  "suggest  a  variety  of  new  ideas," 
Jefferson  furnished  the  maps,  with  the  comment  that  they  were 
"none  of  them  comparable  to  the  old  Babylon  revived  and 
exemplified  in  Philadelphia."  L'Enfant  temporized  with  a 
checker-board  ground  plan;  but  this  he  overlaid  with  a  multi- 
tude of  broad  avenues  intersecting  the  streets  at  acute  angles, 
thus  making  poissiible  the  city  of  splendid  vistas  as  it  exists 
to-day. 

It  was  Washington's  personal  desire  that  the  Congressional  build- 
ings should  be  located  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  or  more  from  the 
Executive  Mansion.  L'Enfant,  accordinglv,  chose  the  broad  plateau  in 
the  eastern  section  as  the  site  for  the  Capitol,  and  located  the  other 
public  buildings  more  than  a  mile  northwest,  up  the  proposed  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  John  Adams,  then  Vice-President,  vigorously  objected  on 
the  ground  that  all  the  public  buildings  should  centre  around  the 
Capitol.  Washington,  however,  defended  L'Enfant's  scheme  on  the 
ground  that,  if  the  Legislative  and  Executive  Branches  were  located 
close  together,  the  latter  would  be  so  annoyed  by  the  former  that  they 
could  not   complete  their  business,  unless  at  home. 

Almost  from  the  first,  friction  arose  between  L'Enfant 
and  the  city  commissioners.  Daniel  Carroll's  enmity  was  first 
incurred  because,  without  consulting  the  engineer's  plans,  he 
began  the  erection  of  a  large  brick  house  directly  in  the 
middle  of  the  future  New  Jersey  Ave.  This  enraged 
L'Enfant,  who  promptly  had  his  workmen  tear  the  building 
down, — an  act  which  brought  a  reprimand  from  Washing- 
ton, ordering  the  re-erection  of  the  building  (although  wisely, 
not  this  time  on  the  line  of  the  avenue).  A  more  serious 
cause  for  friction  was  L'Enfant's  refusal  to  make  public  his 
plans  when,  in  October,  the  Commissioners,  wishing  to  raise 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxix 

money,  advertised  the  sale  of  lots.  They  took  the  ground 
that  the  value  of  the  lots,  and  consequently,  the  amount  of 
money  raised,  would  depend  largely  upon  their  situation  in 
relation  to  the  projected  public  buildings.  L'Enfant,  on  the 
other  hand,  contended  that  if  his  maps  were  published,  spec- 
ulators would  seize  upon  the  choicet  locations  and  perma- 
nently destroy  the  best  vistas  with  crowded  blocks  of  shanties. 

Washington  promptly  authorized  the  dismissal  of  the  en- 
gineer with  the   incidental  comment : 

"Men  who  possess  talents  which  fit  them  for  peculiar  purposes  are 
almost  invariably  under  the  influence  of  untoward  dispositions,  or  a 
sottish  pride,  or  possessed  of  some  other  disqualification  by  which  they 
plague  all  those  with  whom  they  are  concerned.  But  I  did  not  expect  to 
meet  with  such  perverseness   in   Major  L'Enfant." 

L'Enfant  continued  to  live  in  the  neighborhood  of  Wash- 
ington until  his  death  in  1825,  a  disappointed  and  prematurely 
aged  man.  For  some  years  he  made  his  home  with  his  friend, 
Dudley  Digges,  at  the  latter's  Manor  House,  Chellum  Castle, 
near  Bladensburg.  There,  for  nearly  a  century,  his  remains 
lay  in  an  unmarked  grave,  until  their  removal  in  1909 
(p.  508)  to  a  plot  in  the  National  Cemetery  at  Arlington.  In 
his  later  years  he  repeatedly  petitioned  Congress,  without  suc- 
cess, for  real  or  fancied  arrears  of  pay.  There  seems  ground 
for  believing  him  inadequately  compensated,  since  all  that  he 
received  for  his  plans,  involving  many  months  of  surveying, 
was  $2500. 

L'Enfant  was  succeeded  by  his  assistant,  Andrew  Ellicott,. 
a  Pennsylvania  Quaker,  and  later  in  life  Professor  of  Mathe- 
matics at  West  Point.  Ellicott  retained  practically  all  the 
essential  details  of  L'Enfant's  plans. 

The  work  of  building  the  city,  which  under  the  Residence 
Act  was  to  ibe  ready  for  occupancy  before  the  first  Monday 
in  December,  1800,  proceeded  slowly.  The  money  advanced 
by  Maryland  and  Virginia  was  soon  exhausted,  and  although 
Congress  authorized  loans,  money  was  scarce  and  hard  to 
obtain.  Washington  made  a  personal  application  to  the 
Legislature  of  Maryland,  which  made  the  needful  appropria- 
tion on  the  condition  that  the  commissioners  should  add  their 
individual  guarantee.  The  work  thereafter  was  rapidly  pushed 
forward  and,  on  June  15th,  1800,  the  commissioners  reported 
the  public  buildings  ready  for  occupancy.  At  this  time  only 
the  northern  section  of  the  Capitol  building  was  finished. 
Nevertheless,  in  Oct.,  1800,  the  Government,  including 
official  records,  furniture  and  the  minor  officials,  arrived  in 
a  "Packet-sloop."    The  next  day  the  high  officials  drove  into 


xxx  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

town.  In  November  the  6th  Congress  assembled  in  the  one 
completed  wing  of  the  Capitol.  As  might  have  been  foreseen, 
accommodations  were  sadly  inadequate.  Sec.  Wolcott,  writing 
to  his  wife,  said,  "I  do  not  perceive  how  the  members  of 
Congress  can  possibly  secure  lodgings,  unless  they  will  con- 
sent to  live  like  monks  Jn  a  monastery,  crowded  ten  or  twenty 
in  one  house." 

John  Cotton  Smith,  writing  in  1800,  says,  "Our  approach  to  the 
city  was  accompanied  with  sensations  not  easily  described  .  .  .  Instead 
of  recognizing  the  avenues  and  streets  portrayed  in  the  plan  of  the 
city,  not  one  was  visible,  unless  we  except  a  road,  with  two  buildings 
on  each  side,  called  the  New  Jersey  Ave.  .  .  .  Between  the  President's 
house  and  Georgetown  a  block  of  houses  had  been  erected,  which  then 
bore,  and  may  still  bear,  the  name  of  the  six  buildings.  There  were 
also  two  other  blocks,  consisting  of  two  or  three  dwelling  houses,  in 
different  directions,  and  now  and  then  an  isolated  wooden  habitation — 
the  intervening  spaces,  and  indeed  the  surface  of  the  city  generally, 
being  covered  with  scrub-oak  bushes  on  the  higher  ground,  and  on 
the  marshy  soil  either  trees  or  some  sort  of  shrubbery  .  .  .  The  roads 
in  every  direction  were  muddy  and   unimproved." 

Under  such  conditions,  adverse  and  ironical  criticism  was 
inevitable ;  and  for  several  years  Washington  continued  to  be 
known  by  various  disparaging  epithets :  such  as  "Wilderness 
City,"  "Capital  of  Miserable  Huts,"  "City  of  Streets  without 
Houses,"  "City  of  Magnificent  Distances."  There  was  much 
agitation,  both  in  and  out  of  Congress,  for  a  removal  of  the 
seat  of  Government  to  one  of  the  older  established  cities. 
The  advocates  of  such  a  movement  came  to  be  popularly 
known  as  "Capital  Movers." 

Meanwhile,  in  these  first  ten  years,  the  long  series  of 
experiments  in  local  government  had  already  begun.  The 
original  commissioners  served  nearly  two  years  without  salary, 
until  March  4th,  1793,  when  on  the  recommendation  of  the 
President  they  were  awarded  a  salary  of  $1000  each  yearly, 
an  amount  raised  later  to  $1600.00.  These  commissioners  and 
their  successors  continued  to  rule  Washington  until  1802, 
when  on  May  3d,  Congress  granted  the  city  its  first  charter, 
and  provided  for  its  government  by  a  Mayor,  to  be  appointed 
annually  by  the  President,  and  by  an  elected  council  of  twelve 
members.  This  charter  was  amended  in  1804,  and  again  in 
1812,  the  chief  change  being  a  provision  for  the  election  of 
the  Mayor  by  the  members  of  the  Council. 

The  war  of  1812  had  caused  little  local  apprehension, 
Washington  being  regarded  as  too  small  and  unimportant  to  be 
chosen  as  a  point  of  attack.  Consequently  the  city  found 
itself  quite  unprepared  when  the  news  first  came,  in  June, 
that  thirty-five  hundred  seasoned  soldiers,  under  Gen.  Robert 
Pvoss,  were  embarking  at  Bermuda  to  join  Cockburn's  block- 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxxi 

ading  squadron  in  Chesapeake  Bay.  The  chief  blame  for  the 
Capital's  unpreparedness  rested  with  Armstrong,  Secretary 
of  War,  whose  whole  management  of  the  subsequent  crisis 
revealed  a  monumental  incapacity,  which  justified  his  later 
peremptory  dismissal  by  Madison.  "The  British,"  Armstrong 
insisted,  "would  never  be  so  mad  as  to  make  an  attempt  on 
Washington,  and  it  is  therefore  totally  unnecessary  to  make 
any  preparation  tor  its  defense." 

In  spite  of  Armstrong,  some  feeble  and  abortive  prepara- 
tions were  made.  A  military  district  was  created,  including 
the  District  of  Columbia,  Maryland  and  part  of  Virginia, 
and  placed  under  command  of  Gen.  William  H.  Winder,  then 
recently  returned  from  captivity  as  prisoner  of  war  in  Canada. 
On  assuming  command  Winder  found,  to  his  consternation, 
that,  although  thirteen  regiments  of  militia  had  been  drafted 
from  Pennsylvania,  Maryland  and  Virginia,  it  was  on  con- 
dition that  they  should  not  be  called  upon  for  service  until 
the  enemy  appeared.  Winder  protested  fruitlessly ;  and  the 
Government  did  not  awake  to  the  seriousness  of  the  situation 
until  August  20th,  when  a  mounted  courier  brought  the 
news  that  General  Ross,  with  thirty-five  hundred  men,  had 
effected  a  landing  at  Benedict's  on  the  Potomac,  only  forty 
miles  below  Washington,  and  had  been  reinforced  by  a 
thousand  marines  from  Cockburn's  squadron,  now  under 
Cochrane.  Belated  efforts  resulted  in  a  nastily  gathered  army 
amounting  to  approximately  six  thousand  men.  Of  these 
there  were  barely  nine  hundred  regulars  to  meet  the  English 
force  of  forty-five  hundred  veterans.  The  latter,  under  Ross, 
had  pushed  forward  until,  on  August  24th,  they  reached  a 
fork  in  the  road,  one  branch  of  which  ran  northward  to 
Bladensburg,  and  the  other  westward  to  the  Eastern  Branch 
of  the  Potomac,  crossed  opposite  Washington  by  a  bridge. 
The  main  defense,  under  Winder,  had  been  concentrated 
1  to  defend  the  Eastern  Branch  bridge.  But,  discovering  Ross' 
j  feint  movement  was  designed  to  hide  his  real  purpose,  Winder 
hurried  on  to  Bladensburg,  before  which  he  occupied  a  com- 
manding position  in  a  rising  field,  but  unfortunately  with  a 
lack  of  confidence  both  in  himself  and  his  troops.  The  latter 
;  were,  for  the  most  part,  raw  recruits  facing  for  the  first  time 
I  almost  equal  numbers  of  seasoned  soldiers  and  marines. 
The  American  forces  broke  and  fled  in  the  face  of  a  fusil- 
lade of  Congreve  rockets.  The  only  part  of  the  American 
army  which  showed  real  bravery  was  that  of  Barney's 
marines,  who  cut  wide  gaps  in  the  British  column,  but  were 
!  eventually  surrounded  and  compelled  to  surrender.  But  they 
I  had  taken  a  tribute  of  more  than  two  to  one. 


xxxii  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

Meanwhile  the  President  and  demoralized  heads  of  the 
departments  had  fled  from  the  city,  the  panic-stricken  Secre- 
tary of  the  Navy  giving  his  ill-advised  parting  order  to  burn 
the  Navy  Yard,  thus  destroying  Commodore  Barney's  flo- 
tilla of  gun-boats.  The  British  forces  reached  the  Capitol 
grounds  at  6  p,  m.  That  night  they  burned  the  Capitol  (more 
than  half  the  Congressional  Library  being  destroyed  (p.  369)  ; 
the  White  House;  the  Treasury,  State  and  Navy  Buildings 
and  a  number  of  private  edifices,  including  the  office  of  the 
National  Intelligencer,  whose  editorials  had  especially  aroused 
the  resentment  of  Cockburn.  The  flames  were  put  out,  dur- 
ing the  afternoon  of  August  25th,  by  one  of  the  severest 
thunder-storms  in  the  city's  history.  This  storm,  amounting 
to  a  cyclone,  together  with  the  rumor  that  an  American  army 
of  twelve  thousand  was  advancing  from  Virginia,  resulted  in 
the  withdrawal  of  the  British  that  same  evening. 

During  this  three-weeks'  campaign  the  damage  done  by  the 
British  troops  to  public  and  private  property  amounted  to  up- 
ward of  three  million  dollars,  including  the  valuable  cargoes 
taken  from  the  seventy-one  vessels  captured  in  the  harbor  of 
Alexandria.  Plans  were  soon  under  way  for  repairing  the 
damage  done  to  the  Capitol  city;  and  one  of  the  first  acts  of 
Congress,  at  a  special  session  held  in  September,  1814,  was  to 
appropriate  $500,000  for  rebuilding  the  White  House  and 
the  Capitol,  notwithstanding  the  strenuous  opposition  of  the 
"Capital  Movers."  The  White  House,  restored  by  Hoban, 
was  again  open  to  visitors  January  2d,  1818.  The  Capitol, 
first  under  Latrobe  and  then  under  Bulfinch,  was  not  com- 
pleted until  1830.  In  1820  the  city  government  was  once  more 
modified  by  a  new  charter  providing  for  the  election  of  a 
Mayor  biennially  by  popular  vote.  The  government  estab- 
lished under  this  charter  continued  with  but  little  change 
until  1 87 1. 

In  1846,  by  the  desire  of  the  inhabitants  and  at  the  re- 
quest of  the  State  of  Virginia,  Congress  retroceded  the  thirty 
square  miles  south  of  the  Potomac  originally  acquired  from 
that  state.  This  section  contained  the  city  of  Alexandria,  for 
the  inclusion  of  which  within  the  District,  Congress  had  passed 
a  special  amendment,  at  the  earnest  desire  of  President  Wash- 
ington. 

Down  to  the  inauguration  of  President  Lincoln,  the  Cap- 
ital remained  a  quiet,  retired  place  of  slow  though  steady 
growth,  its  periods  of  gay  activity  during  the  sessions  of 
Congress  giving  place  to  prolonged  intervals  of  stagnation 
during  the  recesses.  Active  opposition  to  the  Capital's  loca- 
tion had  long  since  given  place  to  a  nation-wide  indifference. 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxxiii 

With  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  the  lethargy  of  the  nation 
toward  the  Capital  vanished  over  night.  At  the  close  of 
the  first  day's  bombardment  of  Ft.  Sumter  (April  12th, 
1861),  Leroy  P.  Walker,  the  Confederate  Secretary  of  War, 
boasted  that  before  May  1st  the  Confederate  flag  would  float 
over  the  Capitol.  The  answer  of  the  indignant  North  was 
to  transform  Washington  into  a  great  military  post.  The 
plains  around  it  were  shortly  crowded  with  camps,  sheds  and 
trains ;  and  every  available  building  in  the  city  had  been 
requisitioned  by  the  Government.  In  a  few  months  the 
population  increased  from  61,400  to  nearly  quarter  of  a 
million,  an  average  maintained  throughout  the  war.  A  cor- 
respondent of  the  London  Times,  returning  to  the  Capital 
in  July,  1861,  after  an  absence  of  only  three  months,  con- 
cludes as  follows  a  vivid  account  of  the  marvellous  change 
wrought : 

"To  me,  all  this  was  a  wonderful  sight.  As  I  drove  up  Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue  I  could  scarcely  credit  that  busy  thoroughfare — all  red, 
white,  and  blue  with  flags,  filled  with  dust  from  galloping  chargers 
and  commissariat  carts;  the  sidewalks  thronged  with  people,  of  whom 
a  large  proportion  carried  sword  and  bayonet;  shops  full  of  life  and 
activity — was  the  same  as  that  through  which  I  had  driven  the  first 
morning  of  my  arrival.  Washington  now,  indeed,  is  the  Capital  of 
the   United    States." 

Throughout  the  war  Washington  remained  the  center  of 
military  activities.  Here  armies  were  officered  and  mar- 
shalled; here  also  were  the  principal  hospitals  for  the  wounded, 
and  the  chief  depots  of  military  supplies.  During  the  war 
the  city  was  frequently  threatened  by  Confederate  armies, 
but  was  only  once  in  real  danger.  This  was  in  July,  1864, 
shortly  after  the  Battle  of  the  Wilderness,  and  at  the  be- 
ginning of  Grant's  nine-months'  siege  of  Petersburg.  To 
create  a  diversion  in  the  rear  of  Grant's  army,  Gen.  Jubal 
A.  Early,  with  part  of  Lee's  troops,  was  sent  up  through 
the  Shenandoah  Valley  and  across  the  Potomac.  There  was 
great  alarm  in  Washington,  then  protected  by  less  than  five 
thousand  soldiers ;  while  Gen.  Lew  Wallace,  then  command- 
ing the  Middle  Department  (the  territory  included  between 
Washington  and  Baltimore),  had  at  his  disposal  barely  three 
thousand  men  when,  on  July  9th,  he  opposed  Early's  passage 
of  the  Monocasy  River,  less  than  thirty-five  miles  from  the 
Capital.  Wallace  was  defeated  after  an  all  day  battle,  with 
a  loss  of  one-third  of  his  forces.  On  July  nth  Early's  troops 
appeared  before  the  defenses  of  the  city.  But  the  loss  of  a 
day  in  the  Battle  of  the  Monocasy  had  thwarted  his  purpose, 
giving  time  for  reinforcements  to  arrive;  and  within  the 
fortifications   of  Washington   there   was   an   armed   force  of 


xxxiv  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

sixty  thousand  men.  By  nightfall,  on  July  12th,  Early's 
forces  were  in  full  retreat. 

The  greatest  tragedy  in  the  city's  history  occurred  on  the 
night  of  April  14th,  1865,  when  President  Lincoln  was 
assassinated  at  Ford's  Theatre  by  the  actor  John  Wilkes 
Booth,   (p.   145). 

Washington  had  hardly  recuperated  from  the  saddest 
funeral  procession  it  ever  witnessed  when,  on  May  23d  and 
24th,  it  was  the  scene  of  an  impressive  spectacle  of  widely 
different  character,  the  greatest  military  display  that  had 
ever  taken  place  in  America — the  review  of  the  Federal 
veterans  by  President  Johnson.  Marching  sixty  abreast,  it 
took  six  hours  on  the  first  day  for  Meade's  army,  and  seven 
hours  for  Sherman's  on  the  second  day,  to  pass  in  review. 

In  1871,  another  experiment  in  city  government  was  tried 
when,  on  Feb.  21st,  an  Act  was  passed  to  the  effect  that  on  and 
after  June  1st  the  corporations  of  Washington  and  Georgetown 
should  cease  to  exist,  and  that  the  entire  District  of  Columbia 
should  constitute  a  single  municipality.  This  new  regime, 
known  as  the  Territorial  Government,  consisted  of  a  Gov- 
ernor, a  Secretary,  a  Board  of  Public  Works,  a  Board  of 
Health,  a  Legislative  Assembly,  and  a  Delegate  in  the  House 
of  Representatives.  Under  this  form  of  municipal  govern- 
ment began  what  is  known  as  the  "Renaissance  of  Wash- 
ington." 

The  first  Governor  was  Henry  D.  Cooke,  who  filled  the  of- 
fice! from  March,  1871,  until  September  13,  1873,  when  he  was 
succeeded  by  Governor  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  who  from  May, 
1871,  until  he  became  Governor  had  been  Vice-President  and 
the  executive  officer  of  the  Board  of  Public  Works. 
Governor  Shepherd  was  a  remarkable  man,  whose  great 
services  to  the  city  of  his  birth,  repaid  at  the  time  by  base 
ingratitude,  have  since  been  amply  recognized.  He  under- 
took, and  carried  out,  one  of  the  most  comprehensive  schemes 
of  municipal  improvement  ever  conceived,  completing  in  a 
space  of  three  years  work  which  had  been  delayed  for  three- 
quarters  of  a  century.  Briefly  stated,  his  improvements  in- 
cluded: 1.  The  construction  of  a  sewerage  system,  which, 
by  the  end  of  1875,  embraced  a  total  length  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty-three  miles ;  2.  A  water  system,  consisting  of  one 
hundred  and  thirty-three  miles  of  mains  and  pipes ;  3.  The  ex- 
tension of  the  gas-mains,  and  erection  of  three  thousand  public 
lamps ;  4.  The  regrading  of  a  large  portion  of  the  city  streets, 
including  the  paving  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  and 
more  than  two  hundred  miles  of  sidewalk ;   5.  The  planting 


HISTORY  OF  WASHINGTON  xxxv 

of  twenty-five  thousand  shade  trees  of  many  species,  to  whioh 
the  city  to-day  owes  a  large  part  of  its  beauty. 

Improvements  undertaken  on  so  vast  a  scale  were  cor- 
respondingly costly,  and  the  territorial  debt  was  increased 
from  $3,000,000  in  187 1  to  $20,000,000  in  1875.  Within  less 
than  four  years  the  Territorial  Government  had  become  in- 
solvent, and  a  committee  appointed  to  investigate,  reported 
that  it  had  proved  "a  failure — being  too  cumbersome  and 
too  expensive,"  adding!  that  there  was  no  remedy  short  of 
its  abolition."  Shepherd  was  driven  from  office  by  the  abolition 
of  the  office  of  Governor,  and,  meeting  with  financial  reverses, 
removed  to  Mexico,  where  he  soon  acquired  another  fortune. 
In  later  years  he  returned  to  receive  a  royal  welcome,  and 
after  his  death  to  be  honored  by  a  public  statue  on  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  (p.  no). 

Next  followed  the  Temporary  Commission  Government 
(1874-78),  consisting  of  three  members  to  be  appointed  by 
|  the  President,  with  the  consent  of  the  Senate.  This  in  turn 
1  gave  way  to  the  Permanent  Commission  Government,  which 
i  was  established  by  an  act  passed  June  nth,  1878,  and  cur- 
rently known  as  the  "Organic  Act"  of  the  District.  (See  sec- 
I  tion  on  Municipal  Government,  p.  xxxvi.) 

On  July  2d,  1881,  Washington  was  shocked  by  the 
,  second  assassination  of  a  President  of  the  United  States, 
I  when  James  A.  Garfield  was  shot  while  passing  through  the 
i  former  station  of  the  Baltimore  and  Potomac,  R.  R!.  (p.  244), 
(  by  Charles  J.  Guiteau,  a  disappointed  office-seeker.  Garfield 
died  September  19th,  and  his  body  lay  in  state  in  the  Rotunda 
of  the  Capitol  September  22d  and  23d.  Guiteau  was  tried  in 
I  the  old  City  Hall   (p.  137)  and  subsequently  hanged. 

On  June  2d,  1889,  there  occurred  the  most  recent,  and 
1  probably  the  highest,  of  the  many  floods  which  have  inun- 
I  dated  the  lower  part  of  the  city.  One  of  the  main  channel- 
!  spans  of  the  Old  Long  Bridge  was  carried  away,  and  on 
J  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  adjacent  sections  the  water  rose  to 
the  level  of   the  horse-car   platforms. 

In  March,  1894,  Jacob  S.  Coxey  with  his  self-styled 
"Army"  of  the  unemployed,  began  their  widely  heralded 
march  upon  Washington.  On  April  29th,  Coxey  and  three 
hundred  of  his  followers  arrived  and  were  permitted  to  par- 
ade ;  but  when  they  attempted  to  make  speeches  from  the  steps; 
of  the  Capitol,  they  were  arrested,  and  the  three  leaders  re- 
ceived jail  sentences  of  twenty  days  each. 

By  an  Act  of  Congress,  dated  February  nth,  1895,  Con- 
gress decreed  that  Georgetown  "should  no  longer  be  known 


xxxvi  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

as  the  city  of  Georgetown,  but  should  constitute  a  part  of  the 
city  of  Washington." 

During  the  Spanish-American  war  a  military  rendezvous 
was  maintained  at  Camp  Alger,  situated  just  south  of  Fort 
Myer. 

On  October  3d,  1899,  Washington  witnessed  a  military 
parade  in  honor  of  Admiral  Dewey,  Victor  at  Manila  in  the 
Spanish- American  war  (the  equally  impressive  funeral  pro- 
cession of  Admiral  Dewey  took  place  January  20th,  1917). 

On  September  6th,  1901,  the  whole  country  was  galvanized 
by  the  news  of  the  assassination  of  President  McKinley  by 
Leon  F.  Czolgosz.  McKinley  lay  in  state  in  the  Capitol.  But, 
owing  to  a  then  recent  statute  forbidding  the  draping  of  pub- 
lic buildings  in  Washington,  there  was  no  black  on  the  Capitol 
or  White  House. 

III.     The  Public  Administration  of  Washington 

The  power  of  determining  the  manner  in  which  the  Dis- 
trict of  Columbia  should  be  governed,  was  vested  in  Congress 
by  a  clause  in  the  eighth  section  of  the  first  article  of  the 
Constitution  of  the  United  States:  "To  exercise  exclusive 
legislation  in  all  cases  whatsoever  over  such  districts  (not 
exceeding  ten  miles  square)  as  may,  by  cession  of  particular 
States  and  the  acceptance  of  Congress,  become  the  seat  of 
the  Government  of  the  United  States."  Under  this  authority 
three  successive  forms  of  government  have  been  tried.  In 
1802  Washington  was  formally  chartered  with  a  municipal 
government  on  the  old  English  plan,  including  a  Mayor  and 
Common  Council.  In  1871  this  was  succeeded  by  a  terri- 
torial form  of  government,  with  a  Governor  and  delegate  in 
Congress  (see  History,  p.  xxxv) .  This  in  turn  gavel  place  to 
the  present  form  of  government  by  a  Board  of  Commis- 
sioners, established  under  Act  of  Congress,  approved  June 
11,  1878. 

Under  the  first  section  of  the  Act  it  is  provided  that  all 
the  territory  which  was  ceded  by  Maryland  for  the  per- 
manent seat  of  Government,  should  continue  to  be  known  as 
the  District  of  Columbia,  and  should  continue  to  be  a  mun- 
icipal corporation,  the  government  of  which  should  be  vested 
in  three  Commissioners,  having  in  general  equal  powers  and 
duties.  Two  of  these  Commissioners  are  appointed  from 
civil  life  by  the  President,  and  confirmed  by  the  U.  S.  Senate 
for  a  term  of  three  years  each,  and  until  their  successors  are 
appointed  and  qualified.  To  be  eligible  they  must  have  been 
actual   residents   of   the  District   for  three   years   previous  to 


PUBLIC  ADMINISTRATION  OF  WASH,      xxxvii 

their  appointment,  having  during  that  period  claimed  resi- 
dence nowhere  else.  The  third  Commissioner  is  detailed  from 
time  to  time  by  the  President  from  the  Engineer  Corps  of 
the  U.  S.  Army,  and  must  be  selected  from  among  the  Cap- 
tains or  officers  of  higher  grade  who  have  served  at  least  15 
years  in  the  Engineer  Corps.  While  serving  as  Commis- 
sioner such  officer  shall  not  be  required  to  perform  any  other 
duty. 

These  three  Commissioners  are  in  a  general  way  vested 
with  jurisdiction  covering  all  the  ordinary  features  of  munic- 
ipal   government,    performing    both    legislative    and    executive 
functions.     They  are  also  ex  officio  the  Public  Utilities  Com- 
mission of  the  District  of  Columbia.     Their  duties  as  defined 
by  the   Act   are :   to  apply  revenues ;   to   take   charge  of   Dis- 
trict records  and  moneys;  to  investigate  annually  and  report 
upon  charitable  institutions ;  to  make  police,  building  and  coal 
I  regulations;    to    abolish    and    consolidate    offices;    to    prescribe 
'  time  of  payment  of  taxes,  etc. ;  to  perform  the  duties  of  the 
;  Board  of   Police,  Board  of  Health   and   School  Trustees;  to 
exact  just  and  reasonable  rates  for  gas;  and  to  report  annu- 
ally an  account  of  their  proceedings  to  Congress. 

Residents  of  the  District  of  Columbia  are  deprived  of  the 
franchise.     During  the  Congressional  session  of  1916-17  this 

1  question  of  the  right  of  the  citizens  of  the  District  to  vote 
was  brought  forward  by  the  Shepard  bill,  the  purpose  of 
which   was   to   establish   prohibition   throughout   the   District, 

1  the  liquor  interests  and  the  advocates  of  District  franchise 
alike  seeing  in  it  an  opportunity  to  seek  for  an  amendment 

I  granting  the  District  at  least  the  right  of  referendum.     The 

I  amendment  was  defeated. 

The  expenditures  of  the  District  of  Columbia  are  based 
i  upon  estimates  annually  prepared  by  Commissioners  and  sub- 
l  mitted   to    Congress   through   the   Secretary  of   the   Treasury. 
J  In  so  far  as  it  approves  of  these  estimates,  Congress  makes  a 
proportionate  appropriation   out   of    the   U.    S.   Treasury,   the 
remainder   of   the   amount   needed   being   levied   upon   taxable 
property  and  privileges  within  the  District  (exclusive  of  gov- 
ernment   property).     At    present    the    proportions   are    40   per 
cent  out  of  the  Treasury  and  60  per  cent  from  taxation. 

There    are    three    Municipal    Departments:    namely,    the 
Fire  Department,  Health  Department  and  Metropolitan  Police, 
all    under    control    of    the    Commissioners.      Other    important 
j  functions   are  delegated  to   a  number   of    special    Boards,   re- 
porting  directly  to   the   Commissioners,    and   including  among 


xxxviii  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

others  the  Board  of  Charities,  Board  of  Education,  Board 
of  Medical  Examiners,  Board  of  Plumbing,  Minimum  Wage 
Board,  Trustees  of  the  Public  Library,  etc. 

The  District  Judiciary,  known  as  "the  Supreme  Court  of 
the  District  of  Columbia,"  includes  a  Chief  Justice  and  five 
associate  Justices,  and  occupies  what  was  formerly  the  City 
Hall.  From  the  decisions  of  this  court  appeals  are  taken  to 
the  Court  of  Appeals  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  consisting 
of  a  Chief  Justice    and   two    associate  Justices   (see  p.  138). 

IV.     Washington  Bibliography 

In  the  widest  sense,  a  bibliography  of  Washington  would 
make  a  volume  in  itself.  The  lives  of  all  the  Presidents  and 
leading  Statesmen,  the  intimate  diaries  and  letters  of  count- 
less sojourners  in  the  Capital  City;  the  casual  impressions  of 
scores  of  foreign-visitors  all  add  their  side-lights  to  the  social 
and  political  history  of  Washington.  In  a  narrower  sense, 
however,  the  standard  histories,  descriptive  volumes  and 
special  monographs  on  Washington  are  relatively  few  as  com- 
pared with  most  world  Capitals;  and  those  likely  to  interest 
the  average  visitor  can  be  summed  up  in  little  space. 

History.  Two  recent  authoritative  works  are :  Dr. 
William  Tindall's  Standard  History  of  the  City  of  Washing- 
ton (1914)  and  W.  B.  Bryan's  History  of  the  National  Capital, 
From  its  Foundation  through  the  Period  of  the  Adoption  of 
the  Organic  Act  (2  vols.  1914-16).  Dr.  Tindall,  for  many 
years  secretary  of  the  District  Board,  has  made  his  600-page 
volume  especially  valuable  as  a  history  oif  the  local  municipal 
government.  Mr.  Bryan's  work  is  especially  valuable  for  its 
full  treatment  accorded  the  origin  and  early  development  of 
the  Capital  City,  his  first  volume  covering  only  the  period 
down  to  the  close  of  the  War  of  1812.  Other  works  of  a 
popular  form  are :  C.  B.  Todd's  The  Story  of  Washington, 
the  National  Capital  (1889)  ;  R.  R.  Wilson's  Washington,  the 
Capital  City  (2  vols.,  iojoi)  ;  and  C.  H.  Forbes-Lindsay's 
Washington,  the  City  and  the  Seat  of  Government  (1908). 
The  student  who  wishes  to  go  directly  to  the  earlier  sources 
will  find  a  mine  of  interesting  details  in  the  following  pioneer 
works :  Observations  on  the  River  Potomack,  the  Country 
Adjacent  and  the  City  of  Washington,  dated  1793  and  written 
by  Tobias  Lear,  George  Washington's  private  secretary;  A 
Description  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  by  David  B.  Warden 
(1816),  and  Jonathan  Elliot's  invaluable  little  history  of  The 
Ten-Mile-Square    (1830).     For    the    middle    period    much    of 


WASHINGTON  BIBLIOGRAPHY  xxxix 

value  is  to  be  gleaned  from  A  Picture  of  Washington,  pub- 
lished in  184 1,  and  written  by  George  Watterson,  Librarian 
of  Congress,  1815-29.  For  the  closing  decades  of  the  19th 
century  the  Centennial  History  of  the  City  of  Washington 
(1892)  is  a  mine  of  information  regarding  the  military,  mer- 
cantile, manufacturing  and  transportation  interests,  the  press, 
schools,  churches,  societies,  etc.,  together  with  much  biograph- 
ical matter,  and  abundant  illustrations.  Other  works  deserv- 
ing mention  are :  Joseph  V.  Varnum's  Seat  of  Government  of 
the  United  States  (1854);  C.  A.  Townsend's  Washington 
Outside  and  Inside  (1874);  The  National  Capital,  Past  and 
Present,  by  Stilson  Hutchins  and  J.  W.  Moore  (1885);  Pic- 
tures of  the  City  of  Washington  in  the  Past  (1898),  by  S.  C. 
Busey;  and  A  History  of  the  City  of  Washington,  its  Men 
and  Institutions,  edited  by  A.  B.  Slauson. 

Among  the  monographs  covering  special  epochs,  mention 
I  should  be  made  of  John  Melon  Stahl's  The  Invasion  of  the 
1  City  of  Washington;  a  Disagreeable  Study  in  and  of  Mili- 
!  tary  Unpreparedness  (1918);  John  S.  Williams'  History  of 
the  Invasion  and  Capture  of  Washington  (1857);  also,  from 
>  the  British  standpoint  George  R.  Glieg's  Campaigns  of  the 
j  British  Army  at  Washington  and  New  Orleans  in  the  Years 
I  1814-15;  for  early  Georgetown  history  Early  Days  in  Wash- 
|  ington  (1899),  by  Sally  S.  Mackall,  is  a  delightfully  readable 
j  and  fairly  accurate  record.  For  the  history  of  Mount  Vernon 
(  there  can  be  no  substitute  for  the  painstaking,  exhaustive  and 
thoroughly  reliable  monograph  by  Paul  Wilstach,  Mount 
I  Vernon  (1916);  and  Potomac  Landings  (1921),  by  the  same 
j  author,  is  equally  satisfactory  for  the  many  historic  associa- 
tions along  the  Potomac  River.  Lastly,  the  Records  of  the 
!  Columbia  Historical  Society,  already  numbering  24  vols.,  are 
'  full  of  matter  regarding  the  local  history  of  buildings,  institu- 
j  tions,  residential  sections,  biographies,  etc.  It  includes  such 
important  papers  as  the  "Diary  of  Mrs.  William  Thornton," 
,  "The  Capture  of  Washington  by  the  British"  and  "Unwel- 
j  come  Visitors  to  Washington,"  Aug.  24,  1814,  by  M.  I. 
Weller  and  J.  Elwell ;  also  an  almost  completed  series  of 
papers  on  the  Mayors  of  Washington. 

Description.  Among  the  volumes  written  in  lighter  vein, 
and  dealing  with  the  picturesque  side  of  the  Capital  City,  its 
social  life  and  famous  men  and  women,  the  choice  is  so  wide 
that  the  specific  mention  of  a  few  is  largely  a  personal  selec- 
1  tion.  The  following  are  distinctly  readable :  Francis  E. 
Leupp's  Walks  About  Washington  (1915)  ;  Mary  Smith  Lock- 


xl  -      RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 

wood's  Yesterdays  in  Washington  (2  vols.,  1915)  ;  Mrs.  Mary 
S.  Logan's  Thirty  Years  in  Washington  (1901),  a  752-page 
volume  of  life  and  scenes  in  the  Capital;  and  Mrs.  Harriet 
Monroe's  Washington,  its  Sights  and  Insights  (1903).  To 
these  should  be  added  Ten  Years  in  Washington  (1882),  by 
Mary  Clemmer  Ames,  who  further  defines  her  work  as  "In- 
side Life  and  Scenes  in  the  Capital  as  a  Woman  Sees  Them." 
Of  a  purely  descriptive  nature  are  two  articles  on  Washing- 
ton, written  respectively  by  former  President  William  Howard 
Taft  and  by  Viscount  James  Bryce,  which  appeared  in  the 
National  Geographic  Magazine  in  the  years  1913  and  1915. 
Recent  volumes  dealing  especially  with  the  social  life  of 
Washington,  include :  Mrs.  E.  N.  Chapin's  American  Court 
Gossip  (1887);  an  anonymous  volume,  "by  the  Widow  of  an 
American  Diplomat,"  entitled  Intimacies  of  Court  and  Society; 
an  Unconventional  Narrative  of  Unofficial  Days  (1912)  ;  and 
The  Sunny  Side  of  Diplomatic  Life,  1875- 1912,  by  Lillie 
Greenough  Hegermann-Linden crone    (1914). 

Guide  Books.  Of  the  strictly  formal  guide  book  type, 
one  early  pioneer  volume  which  deserves  mention  is  Bohn's 
Handbook  of  Washington  (1852),  containing  numerous  en- 
gravings of  buildings  most  of  whioh  have  since  disappeared; 
Washington  and  its  Environs,  edited  "by  De  B'.  Randolph 
Keim,  is  a  slim  red-covered,  Baedeker-like  little  volume,  new 
editions  of  which  appeared  almost  annually  for  about  20 
3^ears,  down  to  the  late  8o's,  and  are  a  useful  storehouse  of 
miscellaneous  details  for  that  period.  In  recent  years  the 
tourist  has  had  to  depend  upon  the  two  paper-covered  popular- 
priced  handbooks  put  out  respectively  by  the  Rand,  McNally 
Company  and  the  B.  S.  Reynolds  Company,  to  which  has 
recently  been  added  an  up-to-date  little  pamphlet  entitled, 
Historical  Self-Guide  to  Washington,  published  by  the  Wash- 
ington Guidebook  Company.  Two  special  handbooks  of  dis- 
tinct value  are:  The  National  Capitol;  its  Architecture,  Art 
and  History,  by  George  Cochraine  Hazelton,  Jr.  (1907),  and 
Handbook  of  the  New  Library  of  Congress,  by  Herbert 
Small  (1901).  No  bibliography  would  be  complete  without 
mention  of  Charles  Moore's  recently  published  biography  of 
Daniel  H.  Burnham,  the  distinguished  architect  who  did  more 
than  any  other  single  man  to  carry  forward  the  Art  Com- 
mission's plans  for  beautifying  Washington,  and  the  record  of 
his  efforts  to  this  end  is  fully  given  in  these  two  ample 
volumes. 

Fiction.  Washington  has  never  been  especially  popular 
with    novelists    as    a    background    for    their    stories,    perhaps 


WASHINGTON    BIBLIOGRAPHY  xli 

because  a  very  large  social  element  is  transient  and  migra- 
tory. Yet  the  list  begins  as  early  as  1822  when  George  Wat- 
terson   published    what    was    probably   the   first   novel    laid    in 

the  District,   The  L Family  in   Washington,  a  story  told 

in  a  series  of  letters,  and  followed,  in  1827,  by  The  Wanderer 
in  Washington.  Another  early  novelist  of  the  Capital,  was 
Mrs.  Samuel  Harrison  Smith,  whose  What  is  Gentility? — a 
story  of  Washington  society — was  published  in  1828,  and  the 
proceeds  given  to  aid  the  Washington  City  Orphan  Asylum. 
The  most  prolific  of  Washington  writers  was  Mrs.  E.  D.  E.  N. 
South  worth,  who,  for  nearly  half  a  century,  averaged  one 
novel  a  year,  many  of  which  were  laid  in  the  City  itself  or 
in  Bladensburg  and  other  suburbs.  Retribution  (1843)  is 
said  to  be  the  first  serial  story  written  in  America. 

Among  comparatively  recent  novelists  who  have  laid  their 
scenes    in    Washington,    should    be    mentioned    Mrs.    Frances 
j    Hodgson    Burnett,    author    of    Through    One    Administration 
(1883);     Mrs.     Gertrude     Atherton,    Whose    Senator   North 
(1900)    stands  out  prominently  among  her  earlier  works;  and 
'    David  Graham  Phillips,  who  invaded  the  Capital  City  at  least 
once    with    Josiah    Craig.    Democracy:    an    American   Novel, 
\   issued  anonymously  in   1880,  was  justly  esteemed  at  the  time 
1    as  a  realistic  picture  of  political  life  at  Washington,  in  which 
(   numerous  Senators  and  foreign  diplomats  were  skilfully  por- 
j   trayed.     Other  novels  of  about  the  same  period  include:  Julia 
Magruder's   Across    the   Chasm    (1885);    Albert    G.    Riddle's 
j   Alice  Brand  (1875)  ;  J-  J-  Wheelwright's  A  Child  of  the  Cen- 
tury   (1887),   and   a  series   of   stories   by  J.   W.    De   Forest, 
including  Justine's  Lovers    (1878)    and  Playing   the  Mischief 
(1875).     It  should  be  remembered  also  that  at  least  the  con- 
cluding  chapters   of   Robert   Grant's    Unleavened   Bread,   and 
several  episodes  of   Sinclair  Lewis'  Main  Street  are  enacted 
in   the    Capital   City.    And   lastly,   there  are:    The  Enchanted 
Canyon    (1921),   by   Honore   Willsie,    where  the  scene   alter- 
nates   between    Washington    and   the    Grand    Canyon    of   the 
Colorado;  and  The  Wings  of  Time   (1921),  by  Elizabeth  N. 
Hepburn,    in    which    practically    the    whole    story    is    enacted 
within  the  District  limits. 


PRELIMINARY   INFORMATION 

I.     Arrival  in  Washington 
a.     At  the   Railroad  Station 

All    passengers    entering    Washington    by    railroad    now 
arrive  at  the  Union  Station  (p.  358).     It  contains  an  Infor- 
mation Desk,  where  time-tables,  information  concerning  routes, 
connections,  etc.;  may  be  obtained  free  of  charge.     Hand  lug- 
gage and  parcels  may  be  left  in  the  Parcel  Room    (entrance 
from  Grand  Concourse,  W.  of  main  doorway)   at  a  charge  of 
ioc.  per  day  for  each  article.     Uniformed  porters  are  on  hand 
to  carry  portable  luggage  and  give  all  kinds  of  assistance.     A 
porter  will   accompany   the  traveller  to   street   car  or  taxicab 
and  see  hinx  safely  started  in  the  right  direction.     A  small  fee 
I  is  expected,  varying  according  to  the  service  rendered.    Within 
1  the   main   station   are   telegraph   offices    both    of    the   Western 
f  Union  and  Postal  Telegraph  Cable  Co. 

For   the   benefit   of    the   traveller    from    abroad    or   others    unused    to 

American,   conditions    it>   may    be    added    that    railroad    tickets    should    be 

1  purchased  at  the  regular  ticket  office  in  the  station  or  at  one  of  the  city 

I  ticket      offices,      since      any      tickets      offered      at      reduced      rates      by 

■  unofficial    agents,    called    "scalpers,"    may    be    counterfeit    or    sold    under 

'1  illegal  conditions.      Children   under  five  years   of  age,   when  accompanied 

I  by  an  adult,  travel  free.      Children  between  five  and  twelve  are  charged 

half  fare.     Any   child,    however,   occupying   a   seat   in   a   parlor   car   must 

pay  at  least  a  half  fare.     Tickets  purchased  one  or  more  days  in  advance 

should  be  stamped  with  the  date  of  intended  departure.     Unused  tickets 

will   be  redeemed  by  the  railroad   under  certain  specified   conditions.      If 

stop-over  privileges  are  desired,  this  fact  should  be  mentioned  when  the 

ticket  is  purchased. 

Incoming  Baggage.  On  all  through  trains,  when  ap- 
proaching the  city,  a  uniformed  agent  for  one  of  the  transfer 
!  companies  passes  through  the  cars  and  will  take  checks,  give 
a  receipt  and  deliver  baggage  to  any  part  of  Washington, 
i  Payment  may  be  made  either  in  advance  or  upon  arrival  of 
the  baggage.  If  the  visitor  has  not  made  such  arrangements 
on  the  train  he  may  apply  at  the  office  of  the  Union  Transfer 
Co.  at  N,  W.  corner  of  main  Waiting  Room. 

Taxi-cabs  may  be  procured  at  W.  end  of  station.  Electric 
cars  of  several  different  lines  (see  p.  10),  passing  within 
convenient  distance  of  all  the  principal  hotels,  pass  the  Plaza, 
stopping  in  front  of  the  main  South  Entrance  to  the  Union 
Station. 

Travellers  from  abroad  will  find  further  general  information  regard- 
',  ing  purchase  of  tickets,  checking  of  baggage,  etc.,  in  Rider's   New   York 
City. 


2  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

b.     At  the  Steamboat  Docks 

Passengers  arriving  in  Washington  by  any  of  the  Potomac 
River  steamboat  lines  are  landed  at  the  wharves  at  the  foot 
of  7th  St.  S.  W.,  almost  two  miles  S.  of  the  residential  section. 
There  are,  however,  several  electric  car  lines  running  N.,  the 
most  convenient  being  the  7th  St.  line  marked  "Chevy  Chase," 
which  brings  the  visitor  in  a  few  minutes'  run  to  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  where  he  may  transfer  E.  or  W.  to  the  hotel  of  his 
choice. 

c.     Division  of  Material  in  This  Guide  Book 

To  aid  the  traveller  in  the  use  of  this  guide,  Washington 
has  been  divided  into  the  following  sections :  I.  Washington 
Northwest — The  Central  Section,  embracing  that  portion  of  | 
Washington  Northwest  included  between  the  Capitol  and  the  j 
White  House,  and  containing  the  principal  business  centres, 
the  leading  theatres  and  a  majority  of  the  hotels  frequented 
by  transient  visitors;  2.  Washington  Northwest — The  Resi- 
dential Section,  including  in  a  comprehensive  way  all  the  dis- 
trict N.  and  W.  of  the  White  House,  and  containing  the  homes 
of  prominent  Washingtonians,  the  foreign  Embassies  and 
Legations  and  the  prominent  social  clubs;  3.  Washington 
Southwest  and  the  Mall,  the  latter  the  oldest  and  most  import- 
ant unit  in  the  city's  system  of  parkways,  and  containing,  with 
the  sole  exception  of  the  Corcoran  Gallery,  all  the  important 
art  collections  and  museums  (the  rest  of  Washington  South- 
west, except  for  Washington's  most  extensive  playground, 
Potomac  Park,  on  its  western  boundary,  is  a  rather  dreary 
waste  of  old-fashioned  dwellings,  warehouses,  railway  tracks 
and  wharves)  ;  4.  Washington  Northeast,  containing  the  homes 
of  the  thrifty  middle  class,  but  with  little  of  the  first  import- 
ance to  attract  the  casual  tourist  save  the  Union  Station 
through  which  he  arrives  and  departs ;  5.  Washington  South- 
east, of  much  the  same  general  character,  its  one  important 
building  being  the  Library  of  Congress;  6.  the  Northern  and 
Western  Suburbs,  particularly  Georgetown ;  7.  the  important 
Virginia  Suburbs,  particularly  Mt.  Vernon  and  Alexandria. 

II.     Hotels  and  Other  Accommodations 

a.     General   Information 

In  Washington  the  great  majority  of  hotels  are  run  on 
the  European  plan,  and  there  are  comparatively  few  where  a 
fixed  weekly  rate  for  room  and  meals  may  be  obtained.     In 


HOTELS  AND  OTHER  ACCOMMODATIONS        3 

fact,   there   are   few   hotels   that   make    any    reduction  by   the 
week  or  month  in  their  charges   for   rooms.     In  choosing  a 
hotel    the    visitor    naturally    considers    the    two    questions    of 
expense    and    location.      The    most    expensive    hotels    are    all 
situated    on    or    near    the    upper   end    of    Pennsylvania    Ave., 
within  a  few  squares  of  the  White  House.     Moderate  priced 
hotels,  however,  may  be  found  in  this  section  as  well  as  in 
the  lower   Pennsylvania   Ave.   and   Capitol   grounds  neighbor- 
hoods.    The  problem  of  location   depends,  as  in  other  cities, 
upon  the  length  of  the  visitor's  proposed  stay,   and  the  pur- 
pose of  his  visit,  whether  for  business,  for  social  reasons  or 
merely  for  sightseeing.     For  a  prolonged  stay,  there  are  obvi- 
ous advantages  in  being  near  the  residential  section ;  but  for 
the  tourist  with  only  a  few  days  at  his   disposal,  location  in 
;  Washington  makes   far  less   difference  than  in  most  cities  of 
1  similar  size.     A  large  majority  of  the  hotels  extend  along  the 
I  scant   mile-and-a-half   stretch  separating  the   Capitol   and   the 
I  White  House,  or  cluster  around  these  two  extremes ;  the  prin- 
'  cipal    sights    of    the    city    are    similarly    distributed,    and    in 
j  almost  equal  proportions ;   and  whichever   location  is   chosen, 
I  the  intervening  length  o<f  Pennsylvania  Ave.  must  be  traversed 
many  times.     The  visitor  who  is  a  good  pedestrian  will  find 
ithat   a  hotel   at   some   midway   point  offers   the  advantage   of 
s  being  within  practical  walking  distance  of  the  great  majority 
,of  points  he  wishes  to  visit. 

For    further    general    information    regarding    American    hotels,    the 
stranger  in  this  country  is   referred  to  Rider's  New   York  City. 


b.  .  Large  and  Expensive  Hotels  of  the  First  Rank 

*New  Willard.  (PI.  I— A2)  N.  W.  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  14th 
St.    (378   R.)     The   oldest   and   most   widely  known   of  the    large   hotels, 

I  and,  like  its  predecessor,  the  Old  Willard,  much  patronized  by 
members    of    Congress.       Vice-President    Coolidge    resides    here.       For 

I  description  see  pp.  no,  149.  (R.  Single  $3.  With  B.  $5.  Double  $5. 
With   B.   $7.     Suites  $17  up.)      (See  restaurants,  p.   8.) 

*Shoreham.  (PI.  II— D4)  N.  E.  cor.  15th  and  H  Sts.  (250  R.)  For 
description { see  p.  230.  (R.  Single  $3.  With  B.  $5.  Double  $5.  Witli 
B.  $7.)      (See  restaurants,  p.   8.) 

*Washington.  (PI.  I— A2)  N.  E.  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  15th  St. 
(500  R.  500  B.)  (R.  Single  with  B.  $5.  Double  with  B.  $8.  Suites 
$20  up.)      (See  restaurants,  p.  8.) 

Raleigh.     (PI.   I— B2)    N.    E.   cor.    Pennsylvania   Ave.    and    12th    St. 
(  (450    R.)       Patronized    by    Government    officials    and    foreign    diplomats. 


4  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

For  description   see  p.    106.      (R.    Single   $3.      With   B.    $4.      Double   $4. 
With  B.  $5.     Suites  $12  and  up.)       (See  restaurants,  p.   7.) 

*Wardman  Park  Hotel,  Connecticut  Ave.  and  Woodley  Road. 
(1500  R.  1500  B.)  Suburban  residential  hotei,  overlookingf  Rock  Creek 
Park.  Largely  patronized  by  Congressmen,  Government  Executives  and 
foreign   diplomats.      Prices   on    application. 

c.     Eastern  Section:     Capitol  Grounds  Vicinity 

Congress  Hall.  (PI.  I— E4)  New  Jersey  Ave.  betw.  B  and  C  Sts. 
S.  E.  (225  R.)  Fo^  description  see  p.  405/  (R.  Single  $2.50.  With 
B.  $3.  Double  $4.  With  B.  $5.  Suites  $6  up.  American  plan:  Meals 
$3  per  day.) 

Potomac.  (PI.  I— E4)  N.  W.  cor.  New  Jersey  Ave.  and  C  St.  S.  E. 
(75  R.)  For  description  see  p.  405.  (European  plan:  R.  Single  $2. 
With  B.  $4.  Double  $3.  With  B.  $4.50.  American  plan:  R.  Single 
$4.      With  B.    $5.      Double   $7.      With   B.  $9.)      (See   restaurants,   p.    7.) 

George/  Washington  Inn.  (PI.  I — E4)  S.  W.  cor.  New  Jersey  Ave. 
and  C  St.  Sw  E.  (100  R,)/  (R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $2.50.  Double  $3. 
With  B.   $3.50.     Suites  $6.)      (See  restaurants,  p.  7.) 

Driscoll.  (PI.  I— E3)  N.  E.  cor.  B  and  1st  Sts.  N.  W.  (105  R.) 
Faces  the  Capitol  Grounds.  (R.  Single  $1.50  up.  With  B.  $4.  Double 
$3.50  up.  With  B.  $6.  Suites  $9.  Weekly  rates  upon  application. 
American   plan:    $4   up   per   day.)       (See   restaurants, -p.    7.) 

New  Winston.  1st  St.  betw.  Pennsylania  Ave.  and  B  St.  N.  W. 
(90  R.)  (European  plan:  R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $2.50.  Double  $3. 
With  B.  $4.  American  plan:  Two  meals  $1.25;,  Three  meals  $2  per  day 
in  addition   to  price  of  room.) 

Capitol  Park.  (PI.  I— E2)  North  Capitol  and  E  Sts.  (150  R.) 
Conveniently  near  the  Union  Station.  (R.  Single  $2.50.  With  B.  $3. 
Double  $4.    With  B.  $5.    With  twin  beds  $6.) 

Continental.  (PI.  I — E2)  North  Capitol  St.  cor  F  St.  (175  R.) 
Faces  on  Union  Station  Plaza  (R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $3.  Double  $3. 
With  B.  $5.)      (See  restaurants,  p.    7.) 

d.     Central    Section:       Pennsylvania   Avenue 

National.      (PI.   I — C3)    N.    E.    cor.   Pennsylvania  Ave.   and  6th    St. 

(300    R.)       An   historic    old    house    that    has    entertained    many  famous 

people.      For  history  see  p.   100.      (R.   Single  $2.     With   B.   $3.  Double 
$3.      With   B.   $5.      Suites   $6    up.)       (See  restaurants,  p.  7.) 

St.  James.  (PI.  I— C3)  S.  E.  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  6th  St. 
(126  R.)  For  description  see  p.  100.  (R.  Single  $1.50  up.  With  B. 
$4.     Double  $4.     With  B.  $5.     Suites  $5  to  $7.)      (See  restaurants,  p.  7.) 

Howard.  S.  W.  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  6th  St.  Rates  upon 
application. 

Metropolitan.  (PI.  I — C3)  615  Pennsylvania  Ave.  (175  R.)  For 
description  see  p.  100.  (R.  Single  $1.50  up.  With  B.  $3.  Double  $3. 
With  B.  $6.) 

Harrington.  (PI.  I — B2)  S.  E.  cor.  nth  and  E  Sts.  (R.  Single 
$2.50.  With  B.  $3.50.  Double  $4.  With  B.  $5.  With  twin  beds  $6.) 
(See   restaurants,   p.    8.) 

Sterling.  (PI.  I— A 2)  S.  E.  cor.  13th  and  E  Sts.  (100  R.)  (R. 
Single  $2.  With  B.  $3.  Double  $3.  With  B.  $4.)  (See  restaurants, 
p.    8.) 


HOTELS  AND  OTHER  ACCOMMODATIONS        5 

New  Ebbitt.  (PI.  I—A2)  S.  E.  cor.  14th  land  F  Sts.  (p.  149.) 
(R.  Single  $2.  With  B.  $3.50.  R.  Double  $4.  With  B.  $6.)  (See 
restaurants  p.  8.) 

Occidental.  (PI.  I—A2)  141 1  Pennsylvania  Ave.  (R.  Single  $2  up. 
With  B.  $3  up. 

e.     Residential    Section 

Lafayette.  (PI.  II— C3)  S.  E.  cor.  16th  and  I  Sts.  (200  R.  200  B.) 
(R.  Single  with  B.  $4  and  $5.  Double  with  B.  $6  to  $8.)  (See  res- 
taurants p.  8.) 

Bellevue.  (PI.  II— D3)  N.  E.  cor.  15th  and  I  Sts.  (102  R.) 
(R.  Single  $2.   With   B.  $3.      Double  $3.     With   B.  $5.) 

Franklin  Square.  (PI.  II— D3)  N.  W.  cor.  14th  and  K  Sts.  (150  R.) 
(R.  Single  $2.50.  With  B.  $3.  Double  $3.50.  With  B.  $5.  Suites 
$14.00.)      (See  restaurants  p.   8.) 

New  Hamilton.  N.  E.  cor.  14th  and  K  Sts.  (310  R.  310  B.)  A 
thoroughly  modern  eleven-story  hotel  overlooking  Franklin  Sq.,  and 
now   nearing   completion.      Terms   on   application. 

Portland.  (PI.  II— D3)  Vermont  Ave.,  14th  and  M  Sts.  (250  R.) 
Select  family  hotel  patronized  by  Congressmen,  (p.  220.)  (R.  Single 
with  B.  $4.  Double  with  B.  $6.  Monthly  rates  upon  application.)  (See 
1  restaurants  p.  9.) 

Lee  House.  15th  and  L  Sts.  (250  R.  250  B.)  A  new  hotel, 
j  opened  in  May,  1922.  (Rates  from  $3.50  per  day  up.)  (See 
!  restaurants  p.   9.) 

Everett.     1730  H  St.     (38  R.)   (R.  Single  $2.     Double  $3  to  $5.) 

Bancroft.  (PI.  II— C3)  18th  and  H  Sts.  (60  R.)  Quiet  family 
hotel;  moderate  prices  (R.  Single,  $1.50.  With  B.,  $2.50  up.  R.  Double, 
(  $3.50.  With  B.,  $4.50  up.  American  plan:  $22.50  per  week.  With  B., 
$25.     For  two  persons,  $40  per  week,  or  $45  with  B.) 

Powhatan.  (PI.  II — C4)  N.  E.  cor.  18th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
(300  R.)  Large  modern  hotel  recentlv  enlarged.  (R.  Single,  $3.  With 
I  B.,  $4.     R.  Double,  $4.     With  B.,  $5.) 

Richmond  (PI.  II— C4),  17th  and  H  Sts.  (90  R.)  Small  familv 
hotel.  (R.  Single,  $2.50.  With  B.,  $3.50.  R.  Double,  $4.50.  With 
B.,   $5.50.)  1    (See  restaurants  p.   9.) 

Grafton,  (PI.  II — C2),  Connecticut  Ave.  and  De  Sales  St.  American 
plan.     Prices  on  application. 

Logan,  13th  St.  and  Iowa  Circle.  (R.  Single,  $1.50.  R.  Double. 
with   B.   $3.  up.) 

Gordon,  (PI.  II— C3),  16th  and  I  Sts.  (R.  Single,  $3.  With  B.,  $4. 
Other  rates  on  application.) 

f.     Furnished  Rooms 

Furnished  rooms   are  advertised  in  the  daily  papers  and 

by  signs   in  windows.     The  prices  vary  considerably  in   diff- 

1  erent   sections  of   the    city,    being  naturally  much   cheaper   in 

1  the  older   sections  around  Judiciary    Square    (p.    137),   or    S. 

of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  beyond  17th  St.,  than  in  the  fashionable 

residential   section   N.   of   Lafayette    Square,   where  signs   are 

rarely  displayed.     Owing  to  the  great  exodus  of  Government 

employees  since  the  close  of  the  war,  there  is  at  present  [1922] 

an  abundance  of  vacant  rooms,  and  on  some  of  the  quiet  old 

blocks  below  6th  St.,  every  third  or  fourth  house  has  rooms 

to   rent.     In  this  neighborhood   it   is   possible   to  get   a   large 

1  sunny  room  with  steam  heat  for  $6     to  $8  a  week. 


6  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

g.     Suites  and  Furnished  Apartments 

Visitors  expecting  to  make  a  somewhat  extended  stay  in 
the  city  may  find  it  advantageous  to  take  a  furnished  apart- 
ment. In  Washington,  however,  apartment  houses,  especially 
of  the  moderate-priced  sort,  are  not  plentiful ;  and  even  in 
the  fashionable  residential  section  there  is  likely  to  be  small 
range  of  choice,  and  small  advantage  in  cost  over  a  suite  of 
rooms  in  a  residential  hotel.  A  significant  evidence  of  the 
lack  of  available  apartments  or  private  houses  at  a  reasonable 
rental  is  the  fact  that  today  no  less  than  193  members  of 
Congress  find  it  advantageous  to  live  in  hotels. 

h.    Boarding  Houses 

Good  hoard  can  he  obtained  in  Washington  at  a  cost  rang- 
ing from  $12  to  $20  a  week.  A  list  of  boarding  houses  may 
be  obtained  from  the  Young  Women's  Christian  Association 
and  from  the  daily  papers.  In  choosing  location,  the  <N.  W. 
section  of  the  city  (i.  e.,  N.  of  the  Mall,  and  W.  of  North 
Capitol  St.),  is  preferable  from  the  standpoint  of  accessibility. 
Before  engaging  board  a  clear- understanding  should  be  reached 
as  to  what  is  included.  Light,  heat  and  service,  and  the  use 
of  the  bath  are  usually  given. 

III.     Restaurants    and   Tea    Rooms 

Apart  from  the  big  hotels,  restaurant  life  in  Washington 
is  rather  disappointing  to  the  cosmopolitan  visitor.  As  a 
social  factor  there  seems  to  be  no  place  in  the  Washingtonian 
scheme  of  life  for  the  large  show  restaurant  offering  music, 
dancing  and  cabaret  entertainment.  The  small  foreign  table 
d'hote  restaurant,  French,  Italian  or  Spanish,  which  in  London 
or  New  York  is  encountered  in  various  unexpected  nooks 
and  corners,  is  almost  equally  unknown  here.  The  vast 
increase  in  the  city's  population  during  the  temporary  activi- 
ties of  the  World  War,  did  produce  a  demand  for  a  greater 
number  of  eating  houses ;  but  these  were  for  the  most  part 
of  the  dairy-kitchen  and  cafeteria  type,  clean,  economical  and 
expeditious.  The  only  notable  change  wrought  by  war  con- 
ditions is  an  influx  of  small  tea  rooms,  neat,  quiet  and  artis- 
tically furnished,  many  of  which  serve  luncheon  and  dinner. 
Most  of  these,  however,  are  in  the  Lafayette  Square  neigh- 
borhood. The  sightseer,  with  limited  time,  and  therefore 
obliged  to  eat  in  whatever  section  he  chances  to  be,  must  often 
choose  between  a  hotel  and  a  Greek  restaurant  of  the  dairy- 
kitchen  type. 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  7 

In  .the  following  list  the  tea  rooms  have  been  grouped 
separately ;  but  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  divide  the  hotel 
and  independent  restaurants  otherwise  than  geographically. 

a.     Capitol  Grounds  Section 

Public   Restaurant  in   Capitol.     A  restaurant   open   to 
the  general  public   in   the  basement  of  the   House   Wing, 
Room  No.  31.     A  la  carte.     ^Congressional  Library  Res- 
taurant.    Situated  in  the  attic  story  (reached  by  elevator). 
A  la  carte;  reasonable  prices.    Hotel  Potomac.    (PI.  I — E4) 
New  Jersey  Ave.  and  C  St.,   S.  E.     A  la  carte  and  table 
d'hote:   breakfast,   75c;    dinner,   $1.      George   Washington 
Inn.     (PI.   I— E4)    New  Jersey  Ave.  and  C  St.,  S.  E..  A  la 
carte;  also  table  d'hote  dinner,  $1.     Colonial  Dining  Room. 
Congress    Hall.      (PI.  I— E4)   New  Jersey  Ave.,  betw.  Band 
j  C  Sts.,  S.  E.     A  la  carte  and  t.  d'h :  breakfast,  $1 ;  lunch,  $1 ; 
dinner,  $1.25.  American  Dining  Room  (capacity  250  guests)  ; 
J  European    Dining    Room.       Hotel    Driscoll.       (PI.    I — E3) 
J  N.  E.  cor.  B  and  1st  Sts.     A  la  carte;  also  table  d'hote  din- 
I  ner,  $1.25.    New  Winston.     1st  St.,  near  B  St.     Club  Break- 
fast,  25c.  to   75c ;   luncheon,  75c. ;    dinner,  75c.   and  $1 ;    also 
a  la  carte.    Capitol  Park  Hotel.     (PI.  I— E2)   North  Capitol 
!  and  E  Sts.   A  la  carte.   Dining  Room  and  Grill.    Prices  moder- 
ate.   Hotel  Continental.    (PI.  I — E2)  cor.  North  Capitol  and 
'  F  Sts.   T,  d'h  dinner,  $1 ;  club  breakfast,  35c.  to  65c.    Dining 
1  Room  and  Cafe.     Grace  Dodge  Hotel.   (PI.  I— E2)   E  St., 
near  North  Capitol  St.     A  la  carte   (men  not  received  above 
'entrance     floor).      Dining    Room,     Tea     House    and     Roof 
Garden. 

b.     Central   Section:    Pennsylvania   Avenue 

Metropolitan  Hotel.  (PI.  I — C3)  Pennsylvania  Ave., 
betw.  6th  and  7th  Sts.  A  la  carte  only.  National  Hotel. 
(PI.  I — C3)  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  6th  St.  A  la  carte 
only.     St.  James  Hotel.      (PI.   I — C3)   S.  E.  cor.  Pennsyl- 

1  vania    Ave.    and    6th    St.      A    la    carte;    also    club    break- 

1  fast    at    popular    prices,    and    t.     d'h.    dinner.        Harvey's. 

\&.  E.  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  nth  St.  (p.  103).  No  longer 
in  the  social  centre,  yet  still  the  oldest  and  best  known  of 
Washington's  few  restaurants'.  Dining  Rooms,  Grill,  Ban- 
quet Hall,  Private  Rooms,  etc.  Raleigh  Hotel.  (PI.  I— B2) 
N.  E.  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  12th  St.  A  la  carte  only. 
Banquets  and  private  dinner  parties  a  specialty.  Besides  large 
dining  room   on  main   floor,    there   is   a     spacious     Banquet 

1  Hall,  a  Rathskeller  and  Grill  Room  in  the  basement,  and 


8  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


en 


a  Roof  Garden  (open  in  summer).  Sterling  Hotel.  (PI.  I — A2 
S.  E.  cor.  13th  and  E.  Sts.  A  la  carte;  also  Fried  Chicken 
Dinner,  12  noon  to  9  p.  m.,  $1.  Harrington  Hotel.  (PI.  I — B2 ) 
S.  E.  cor.  nth  and  E  Sts.  Club  breakfasts,  60c.  to  $1 ;  T.  d'h. 
luncheon,  75c;  dinner,  $1.25;  also  a  la  carte.  New  Ebbitt. 
(PI.  I— A2)  S.  E.  cor.  14th  and  F  Sts,  A  la  carte  only; 
Grill  Room  in  ibasement,  with  separate  entrance  from  14th 
St.  New  Willard.  (PI.  I— A2).  A  la  carte  only.  Most 
noted  hotel  in  Washington  for  public  and  private  dinners, 
official  banquets,  etc.  The  famous  dinners  of  the  Gridiron 
Club  are  given  here.  There  is  a  recently  opened  Cofeee 
House  in  basement. 

Washington  Hotel.  (PL  I — A2),  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
and  15th  St.  A  la  carte;  also  table  d'hote  in  Grill:  Break- 
fast 75c;  luncheon,  $1.00;  dinner,  $1.50.  Besides  the  main 
dining  room,  on  S.  side  of  lobby,  there  is  a  Spanish  Garden 
on  E.  side;  also  on  ground  floor  the  Salon  des  Nations, 
in  gold  and  blue,  with  private  boxes  along  the  walls  for 
diners,  leaving  the  center  free  for  dancing.  The  wall  panels 
contain  murals  with  typical  scenes  from  the  Allied  coun- 
tries, and  from  three  of  the  neutrals,  Holland,  Spain  and 
Switzerland.  There  are  also  Grill  or  Buffet  and  a  Soda 
Room.  Upon  the  enclosed  roof  are  a  Ball  and  Conven- 
tion Room,  with  seating  capacity  of  400;  also  a  Sun  Parlor, 
opening  upon  an  unenclosed  roof  which  in  summer  is  also 
used  for  dancing  and  dining.  Wallis  Restaurant,  12th  St. 
betw.  F  and  G  Sts. ;  also  branch  on  12th  St.,  opposite  Ral- 
eigh Hotel.  Moderate  prices.  No  smoking.  New  England 
Restaurant,  9th  St.  near  F  St.  Luncheon,  60c. ;  dinner,  $1.00 ; 
also  a  la  carte.     Sea  food  a  specialty. 

c.     Residential  Section 

*Ra usher's.  Connecticut  Ave.  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  L  St. 
The  Delmonico  of  Washington.  Favorite  resort  for  leading 
social  events,  wedding  breakfasts,  coming-out  parties, 
college  reunions,  etc.  *Shoreham  Hotel.  (PI.  II — D4)  N.  W. 
cor.  of  15th  and  H  Sts.  One  of  the  leading  hotel  restaurants  _ 
of  Washington.  Many  select  private  dinners,  club  ban- 
quets, etc.,  are  given  here.  A  la  carte  only.  Grill  in 
basement.  *Lorraine.  1407  H  St.  Small  but  select.  Fre- 
quented by  cosmopolitan  visitors,  members  of  legation 
staffs,  etc.  A  la  carte  only;  excellent  cuisine.  Lafayette 
Hotel.  (iPil.  II— C3)  N.  E.  cor.  of  16th  and  I  Sts.  T.  d'h. 
luncheon.  $1.00;  table  d'hote  dinner,  $1.50;  also  a  la  carte. 
Franklin  Square  Hotel.      (PI.  II— D3)  N.  W.  cor.  14th  and  K 


RESTAURANTS  AND  TEA  ROOMS  9 

Sts.  Club  breakfast,  50c,  75c.  and  $1 ;  t.  d'h.  luncheon,  75c ;  t.  d'h. 
dinner,  $1.50;  also  a  la  carte.  Portland  Hotel.  (PI.  II — D3) 
14th  and  Vermont  Ave.  Club  breakfast,  35c,  50c.  and  65c. ; 
t.  d'h.  luncheon,  75. ;  t.  d'h.  dinner,  $1 ;  also  a  la  carte. 
Everett  Hotel.  1730  H  St.  T.  d''h.  dinner,  $1  ;  also  a 
la  carte.  Hotel  Powhatan.  (PI.  II — C4)  A  la  carte.  Roof 
Garden  in  summer,  open  from  5  p.  m.  until  midnight,  with 
music  and  dancing.  Richmond  Hotel.  (PI.  II — C4)  17th 
and  H  Sts.  T.  d'h.  luncheon.  50c.;  t.  d'h.  dinner,  $1.  Sunset 
Inn.  140 1  Massachusetts  Ave.  Club  breakfast,  25c.  and  50c. ; 
t.  d'h.  dinner,  70c. ;  Sundays,  85c.  Lee  House.  1.5th  and  L  Sts. 
A  la  Carte.     Pompeiian  Dining-Room. 

d.     Tea  Rooms  and  Cafeterias 

Most  Washington  tea  rooms  of  the  better  class  are  within 
j  a  short  radius  of  Lafayette  Square,  and  constitute  a  recent 
1  innovation,  few  of  them  antedating  the  World  War.  Some 
i  are  open  only  for  luncheon  and  tea ;  others  serve  dinner  at 
'   reasonable  prices. 

*Lotos  Lantern.     723   17th   St.     A  la   carte   luncheon,   afternoon  tea. 

j  Curios  for  sale.  *Copper  Bowl.  520  nth  St.  Cafeteria  luncheon;  tea. 
4  to  6  p.  m.    Cinderella  Tea  Garden.    615  14th  St.    A  la  carte  luncheon; 

',    t.  d'h.,  5.30  to  8  p.  m.,  $1.25.     The  Wisteria.     1427  F  St.     Club  breakfast, 

I    35c.  and  50c;  dinner,  6oc.     Tintern  Tea  Room.    730  17th  St.    A  la  carte; 

\    club  luncheon  45c.     Brazilian   Coffee  House.     526  nth  St.     A  la  carte; 

!  t.  d'h.  dinner,  65c.  Peter  and  Paul  Tea  Room.  Connecticut  Ave.,  \V. 
side,  above  L  St.  A  la  carte;  t.  d'h.  dinner,  $1.  Brown  Tea  Pot, 
1147  Connecticut  Ave.  Noah's1  Ark,  924  17th  St.  T.  d'h.  dinner,  $1 ; 
also  a  la  carte.  Gentlewomen's  Tea  Room.  (Conducted  by  the 
Women's  Industrial  Exchange.)  1624  H.  St.  Ye  Coffee  Shoppe.  1710  I 
St.  T.  d'h.  dinner,  $1.  Greenwich  Inn.  1653  Pennsylvania  Ave.  A  la 
carte;  also  t.  d'h.  dinner,  $1.00.  Danish  Rose  Tea  Room.  1622  H  St. 
A  la  carte;  t.  d'h.  dinner,  $1.25.  Specialty,  Danish  pastry.  Brown 
Betty  Tea  Room.  734  15th  St.  Blue  Mill  Tea  Room.  019  15th  St. 
Childs'  Restaurant.  1423  Pennsylvania  Ave.  One  of  the  well  known 
national  chain  of  restaurants  by  this  name,  pioneers  of  the  dairy 
lunch  type.  Bellevue  Farms  Lunch.  1334  G  St.  T.  d'h.  dinner  and 
a  la  carte,  60c.  United  Cafeteria.  1008-10  F  St.  Self  service.  Martha 
Washington  Inn.  N.  E.  cor.  Connecticut  Ave.  and  Q  St.  House  of 
the  White  Peacock.  810  17th  St.  Flag  and  Drum  Inn.  822  Con- 
necticut Ave.  Blossom  Inn  (Cafeteria).  1315  New  York  Ave.  Allies 
Inn  (Cafeteria).  G  St.,  W.  of  17th  St.  Old  Museum  Lunch  Room. 
In  Arts  and  Industries  Building.  Reasonable  prices.  A  great  con- 
venience  to   sightseers  in  that   locality. 


io  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

IV.     Urban  Travel 
a.     Surface  Car  Lines 

The  Washington  trolley  lines,  constituting  the  chief  mode 
of  urban  transport,  are  practically  monopolized  by  two  cor- 
porations :  i.  The  Washington  Railway  and  Electric  Co.;  2. 
The  Capital  Traction  Co.  The  majority  of  the  lines  conducted 
by  these  companies  operate  within  the  District  limits ;  a  few 
of  these  extend  over  the  boundary  line  into  Maryland.  All 
the  other  lines  operating  within  the  city  limits  are  through 
lines  to  points  either  in  Maryland  or  Virginia. 

Each  of  the  two  companies  operating  within  the  District 
limits  gives  free  transfers  to  all  its  intersecting  lines,  but  not 
to  the  lines  of  the  rival  company. 

The  uniform  rate  on  all  lines  within  the  District,  includ- 
ing first  and  second  transfers,  is  eight  cents.  On  all  lines 
passengers  may  purchase  metallic  tokens  at  the  rate  of  six 
tokens  for  40  cents.  These  tokens  are  interchangeable  on  all 
lines  of  both  companies  within  the  District  limits. 

A  few  lines  of  these  companies  extend  beyond  the  Dis- 
trict limits  into  the  State  of  Maryland :  e.  g.  the  lines  to 
Chevy  Chase  and  to  Glen  Echo  Park.  In  the  case  of  these 
lines  an  extra  fare  is  charged  beyond  the  District  line  and 
must  be  paid  in  cash,  the  tokens  being  valid  only  within  the 
District. 

CAPITAL    TRACTION   COMPANY 

This  company  operates  the   following   Lines : 

1.  Pennsylvania  Avenue  Lines.  Four  separate  routes, 
all  covering  the  same  section  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  from  the 
Peace  Monument  to  19th  St.  N.  W. : 

Line  A:  operates  between  36th  and  M  Sts.  N.  W. 
(Georgetown)  and  17th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.  S.  E. 
Route:  east  on  M  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  thence  southeast 
on  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  15th  St.,  south  on  15th  St.  to  Penn- 
sylvania Ave.,  thence  again  southeast  on  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
to  Peace  Monument,  thence  south  on  1st  St.  to  B  St.  South, 
east  on  B  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  southeast  on  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  to  17th  St.  S.  E,  Car  signs:  eastbound,  "17TH  AND 
PA.  AVE.  S.  E.";  westbound,  "GEORGETOWN." 

Passing:  Washington's  Headquarters,  Washington  Circle  and  Statue. 
Department  of  Commerce,  U.  S.  Railroad  Administration,  Interstate 
Commerce  Commission,  State,  Army  and  Navy  Building,  White  House, 
Treasury  Building,  Lafayette  Square^  leading  hotels  and  theatres, 
Municipal  Building,  Post  Office  Department,  Centre  Market,  Botanic 
Gardens,    Capitol,    Library   of    Congress,   Congressional    Cemetery. 


URBAN  TRAVEL  n 

Line  B:  operates  between  36th  and  M  Sts.  N.  W.  and 
8th  and  F  Sts.  N.  E.  Route :  same  as  Line  A  to  Peace 
Monument,  thence  north  on  1st  St.  to  C  St.,  east  on  C  St. 
to  Delaware  Ave.,  southeast  on  Delaware  Ave.  to  Union  Sta- 
tion Plaza,  east  irom  Plaza  on  California  St.  to  2d  St.  N.  E., 
north  on  2d  St.  to  F  St.,  east  on  F  St.  to  8th  St.  Car  signs : 
eastbound,  "8TH  AND  F  STS.  N.  E." ;  westbound, 
"GEORGETOWN." 

Passing:  Same  points  of  interest  as  Line  A;  also  Senate  Office 
Building,    Columbus    Monument    and    Union    Station. 

Line  C:  operates  between  Potomac  Park  (18th  St.  and 
Virginia  Ave.)  and  8th  and  F  Sts.  N.  E.  Route:  from  Poto- 
mac Park  terminal,  north  on  19th  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Ave., 
thence  southeast  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  Peace  Monument, 
thence  over  same  streets  as  Line  B  to  F  and  8th  Sts.  N.  E. 
Car  signs :  eastbound,  "8TH  AND  F  STS.  N.  E." ;  westbound, 
"POTOMAC  PARK." 

Passing:      Same  points   of  interest  as   Line   B. 

Line  D:  operates  between  26th  and  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
N.  W.,  and  17th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.  N.  E.  Route: 
south  on  26th  St.  to  F  St.,  west  on  F  St.  to  17th  St.,  north  on 
17th  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  thence  over  same  streets  as 
I  Line  A.  Car  signs:  eastbound,  "17TH  AND  PA.  AVE. 
S,  E." ;  westbound,  "26TH  AND  PA.  AVE.  N.  W." 

Passing  Department  of  Interior  Building  and  same  points  of  interest 
as  Line  A. 

2.     Fourteenth    Street    Lines.      Five    separate    routes, 

three  of  which   cover  the   Pennsylvania  Ave.   section  from 

15th  St.  to  the  Peace  Monument. 

Line  A:  operates  between  3300  14th  St.  (Park  Road)  and 

36th  and  M  Sts.  N.  W.   (Georgetown).     Route:  south  on  14th 

St.  to  New  York  Ave.,  southweston  New  York  Ave.  to  15th 

St.,  thence  west  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  Rock  Creek  Bridge 

1  and  via  M  St.  to  36th  St.  terminal.       Car  signs :  southbound, 

1  "GEORGETOWN";  northbound,  "PARK  ROAD." 

Passing:  Thomas  Circle,  Franklin  Sq.,  Treasury  Department,  White 
House,  Lafayette  Sq.  and  points  of  interest  mentioned  above  under 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  Line  A. 

Line  B:  operates  between  Park  Road  and  26th  and  G  Sts. 

N.  W.     Route:  same  as  Line  A  to  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  17th 

St.  N.  W.,  at  which  point  cars  run  west  on  G  St.  to  26th  St. 

Car   signs :   southbound,   "26TH    AND    G  1ST." ;   northbound, 

\  "PARK  ROAD." 

Passing:  Same  points  of  interest  as  Line  A  to  17th  St.;  also 
Department  of  Labor  and  Y.   M.  C.  A. 


12  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Line  C:  operates  between  4700  14th  St.  N.  W.  (Decatur 
St.)  and  Union  Station.  Route:  south  on  14th  St.  to  New 
York  Ave.,  thence  west  on  New  York  Ave.  to  15th  St.,  south 
on  15th  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  southeast  oh  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  to  the  Peace  Monument,  north  on  1st  St.  to  C  St.,  east 
on  C  St.  to  Delaware  Ave.,  thence  southeast  on  Delaware 
Ave.  to  Union  Station.  Car  signs :  southbound,  "UNION 
STATION";  northbound,  "DECATUR." 

Passing:  Thomas  Circle,  Franklin  Square,  Treasury  Building,  Wil- 
lard's  Hotel,  Municipal  Building,  Post  Office  Department,  Hotel  Raleigh, 
Centre  Market,  Botanic  Gardens,  Capitol  Grounds,  City  Post  Office  and 
Columbus  Statue. 

Line  D:  operates  between  5500  14th  St.  N.  W.  (Colo- 
rado Ave.)  and  Navy  Yard.  Route:  same  as  Line  A  to 
Peace  Monument,  thence  south  on  1st  iSt.  to  B  St.  South, 
east  on  B  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  southeast  on  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  to  8th  St.,  south  on  8th  St.  to  Navy  Yard  Gate.  Car 
signs:  southbound,  "NAVY'  YARD";  northbound,  "14TH 
AND  COLORADO  AVE." 

Passing:  Same  points  of  interest  as  Line  C  to  Peace'  Monument; 
also  Garfield  Monument,  Capitol,  House  Office  Building,  Library  of 
Congress  and  Marine  Barracks. 

Line  E:  operates  between  Takoma  Park  (Laurel  and 
Aspen  Sts.)  and  Navy  Yard.  Route:  south  on  3d  St.  to  Ken- 
nedy St.,  west  on  Kennedy  St.  to  14th  St.,  then  south  on  14th 
St.  and  over  same  route  as  Line  D  to  Navy  Yard.  Car  signs : 
southbound,  "NAVY  YARD";  northbound.  "TAKOMA 
PARK." 

Passing:   Same  points  of  interest  as  Line  D. 

3.  Chevy  Chase  Lines:  Two  routes  covering  same  section 
from  Chevy  Chase  Lake  to  14th  and  U  Sts. 

Line  A:  operates  between  Chevy  Chase  Lake,  Md.,  and 
Potomac  Park  (18th  St.  and  Virginia  Ave.).  Route:  south- 
east on  Connecticut  Ave.  to  Calvert  St.,  east  on  Calvert  St. 
to  1 8th  St.,  south  on  18th  St.  to  U  St.,  east  on  U  St.  to 
14th  St.,  south  on  14th  St.  to  New  York  Ave.,  southwest  on 
New  York  Ave.  to  15th  St.,  west  on.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to 
19th  St.,  south  on  19th  St.  to  Potomac  Park;  returning  over 
18th  St.  to  F  St.,  east  on  F  St.  to  17th  St.,  and  north  on  17th 
St.,  rejoining  the  route  above  given.  Car  signs:  southbound, 
"POTOMAC  PARK";  northbound,  "CHEVY  CHASE 
LAKE." 

Passing:  Chevy  Chase  Circle.,  Bureau  of  Standards,  Carnegie  Insti- 
tution, Cleveland  Park,  Zoological  Park,  Thomas  Circle,  Franklin  Square, 


URBAN  TRAVEL  13 

Treasury  Building,  White  House,  State,  War  and  Navy  Building,  De- 
partment of  Commerce,  Interstate  Commerce  Commission,  Department 
of  the  Interior  and  new   Navy  Building. 

Line  B :  operates  'between  Chevy  Chase  Lake,  Md.,  and 
7th  St.  wharves  (some  of  the  northbound  cars  stop  at  Rock 
Creek  Bridge).  Route:  same  as  line  A  to  U  and  14th 
Sts.,  thence  east  on  U  St.  to  Florida  Ave.,  southeast  on  Flor- 
ida Ave.  to  7th  St.,  south  on  7th  St.  to  Water  St.,  south  on 
Water  St.  to  the  wharves.  Car  signs :  southbound,  "7TH. 
ST.  WHARVES";  northbound,  "CHEVY  CHASE"  or 
"ROCK  CREEK  BRIDGE." 

Passing:  Bureau  of  Standards,  Geophysical  Laboratory,  Zoological 
Park,  Baseball  Park,  Public  Library,  Patent  Office,  Public  Lands  Office, 
Centre  Market,  Smithsonian  Institution  Grounds,  Army  Medical  Museum, 
Old  Arsenal  and  War  College. 

4.  Florida  Avenue  Line:  operates  between  Stephenson 
Monument  (Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  7th  St.)   and  Navy  Yard 

j  Gate.     Route :  north   on  7th   St.  to  T   St.,   east  on  T   St.  to 

I  Florida  Ave.,   southeast   on   Florida   Ave.   to   8th    St.   N.   E., 

!  south   on  8th   St.   to   Navy   Yard   Gate    (iM    St.   S.  E.).     Car 

1  signs:  north  and  eastbound,  "NAVY  YARD";  west  and  south- 

{  bound,  "7TH  AND  PA.  AVE.  N.W." 

Passing:  Public  Lands  Office,  Patent  Office,  Publiq  Library,  Old 
Central  High  School,  Base  Ball  Park,  Gallaudet  College  and  Navy  Yard. 

5.  New  Jersey  Avenue  Line:  operates  between  Rock 
I  Creek  Bridge  (20th  and  Calvert  Sts.  N.  W.)  and  Navy  Yard 
\   Gate    (8th  and  M   Sts.   S.   E.).     Route:   east   on   Calvert   St. 

to  18th  St.,  south  on  18th  St.  to  U  St.,  east  on  U  St.  to 
Florida  Ave.  to  New  Jersey  Ave.,  southeast  on  New  Jersey 
Ave.  to  Massachusetts  Ave.  to  Union  Station,  thence  south- 
west on  Delaware  Ave.  to  B  St.  N.  E.,  east  on  B  St.  to  1st 
St.,  south  on  1st  St.  to  B  St.  S.  E.,  east  on  B  St.  to  Penn- 
sylvania Ave.,  southeast  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  8th  St., 
south  on  8th  St.  to  Navy   Yard. 

Passing:  Base  Ball  Park,  Government  Printing  Office,  City  Post 
Office,  Union  Station,  Senate  Office  Building,  Capitol,  Library  of 
Congress   and    House   Office    Building. 

WASHINGTON  RAILWAY  AND  ELECTRIC  COMPANY 
This  Company  operates  the  following  Lines : 
1.     Mt.  Pleasant  Lines:   Four  separate   routes  all  fol- 
lowing  the    same   course    from    Mt.    Pleasant    to    Connecticut 
Ave.  and  17th  St. 

Line  A:  operates  between  Park  Road  terminal  and   14th 

St.  N.  E.     Route:   Westward  on  East  Capitol  St.  to  1st  St., 

'   north  on   1st  St.  to  B   St.,  west  on  B   St.  to  Delaware  Ave.. 


14  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

north  on  Delaware  Ave.  to  C  St.,  thence  west  on  C  St.  to 
New  Jersey  Ave.,  northwest  on  New  Jersey  Ave.  to  D  St., 
west  on  D  St.  to  5th  St.,  north  on  5th  St.  to  F  St.,  west  on 
F  St.  to  14th  St.,  north  on  14th  St.  to  H  St.,  west  on  H  St. 
to  17th  St.,  north  on  17th  St.  to  K  St.  and  Connecticut  Ave., 
northwest  on  Connecticut  Ave.  to  California  St.  and  Columbia 
Road,  then  north  on  Columbia  Road  to  intersection  of  16th, 
Harvard  and  Mt.  Pileasant  Sts.,  thence  along  Mt.  Pleasant  St. 
to  terminus  at  Park  Road  and   17th  St. 

Car  signs:  Eastbound,  "LliNCOLN  PARK";  westbound, 
"MT.  PLEASANT." 

Passing:  Lincoln  Park.  Capitol,  Senate  Office  Building,  Union 
Station,  Columbus  Monument,  City  Post  Office,  Old  City  Hall,  Pension 
Office,  Cosmos  Club,  Lafayette  Square,  Old  St.  John's  Church,  Decatur 
House,  Dupont  Circle  and  (corner  of  Columbia  Road  and  Harvard  St.) 
east  entrance  to  Zoological  Park. 

Line  B:  operates  between  Mt.  Pleasant  (Park  Road 
terminal)  and  13th  and  D  Sts.  N.  E.  Route:  Eastbound 
cars  run  south  from  Park  Road  on  Mt.  Pleasant  St.  to 
Columbia  Road,  southwest  on  Columbia  Road  to  Connecticut 
Ave.,  southeast  on  Connecticut  Ave.  to  K  and  17th  Sts., 
south,  on  17th  St.  to  H  St.,  east  on  H  St.  to  14th  St.,  south 
on  14th  St.  to  F  St.,  east  on  F  St.  to  5th  St.,  north  on  5th 
St.  to  G  St.,  east  on  G  St.  to  Massachusetts  Ave.,  southeast 
on  Massachusetts  Ave.  to  Plaza,  southeast  from  Plaza,  on 
Massachusetts  Ave.,  to  C  St.  N.  E.,  east  on  C  St.  to  13th  St., 
north  on  13th  St.  to  terminal  at  D  St.  Westbound  cars  run 
west  on  D  St.  to  Massachusetts  Ave.,  thence  on  same  route 
as  Line  A.  Car  signs:  westbound,  MT.  PLEASANT"; 
eastbound,  "13TH  &  D  STS.  N.  E." 

Passing:  Stanton  Sq.  and  Greene  statue;  also  same  points  of  interest 
as  Line  A. 

Line  C:  operates  between  Mt.  Pleasant  (Park  Road 
terminal)  and  1st  and  E  Sts.  S.  E.  Route:  northbound  cars 
run  from  E  St.  S.  E.  north  over  1st  St.  to  B  St.  N.  E.,  west 
on  B  St.  to  Delaware  Ave.,  north  on  Delaware  Ave.  to  Union 
Station  Plaza,  thence  northwest  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  fol- 
lowing same  course  as  preceding  lines.  Car  signs :  northbound, 
"MT.  PLEASANT";  southbound,  «'iST  &  E  STS.   S.E." 

Passing:  House  Office  Building,  Capitol,  Library  of  Congress,  Senate 
Office  Building;   also  same  points  of  interest  as  preceding  lines. 

Line  D:  operates  between  Mt.  Pleasant  (Park  Road 
terminal)  and  Potomac  Park.  Route :  northbound  cars  run 
from  Virginia  Ave.  north  on  18th  St.  to  F  St.,  east  on  F  St. 
to  17th  St.,  north  on  17th  St.  to  Connecticut  Ave.,  thence  over 


URBAN  TRAVEL  15 

same  course  as  preceding  lines.  South-bound  cars  return  by 
same  route  to  17th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  thence  west  to 
19th  St.,  south  on  ioth  St.  to  Virginia  Ave.  and  southeast 
on  Virginia  Ave.  to  terminal.  Car  signs  :  northbound,  "MT. 
PLEASANT";  southbound,  "POTOMAC  PARK." 

Passing:  New  Navy  Building,  Department  of  Interior,  State,  War 
and  Navy  Building;  also  same  points  of  interest  as  preceding  Mt. 
Pleasant  lines. 

2.  Brookland-Cabin  John  Line.  Route:  westbound 
cars  run  from  Randolph  St.  south  on  12th  St.  N.  E.  to 
Monroe  St.,  east  on  Monroe  St.  to  Michigan  Ave.,  southeast 
on  Michigan  Ave.  to  North  Capitol  St.,  south  on  North  Capi- 
tol St.  to  Massachusetts  Ave.,  northwest  on  Massachusetts 
Ave.  to  G  St.,  west  on  G  St.  to  5th  St.,  south  on  5th  St.  to 
F  St.,  west  on  F  St.  to  14th  St.,  north  on  14th  St.  to  H  St., 
west  on,H   St.  to  17th  St.,  north  on   17th   St.  to  Connecticut 

'  Ave.,  northwest  on  Connecticut  Ave.  to  P  St,  west  on  P  St. 
j  to  36th  St.,  south  on  36th  St.  to  Prospect  Ave.  (Georgetown 
'  terminal),  thence  west  over  private  right  of  way  to  Cabin 
,  John  Bridge.  Eastbound  cars  return  over  same  route  to  Pros- 
I  pect  Ave.  terminal,  thence  east  to  35th  St.,  north  on  35th  St. 
I  to  O  St.,  east  on  O  St.  to  Wisconsin  Ave.,  thence  east  on  Dum- 
1  barton  St.  to  28th  St.,  north  on  28th  'St.  to  P  St.,  rejoining 
I  the  same  route  to  Brookland.  Some  eastbound  cars  cover  the 
I  whole  route;  others  stop  at  intermediate  terminals  as  indi- 
I  cated  by  the  car  signs:  eastbound,  "BROOKLAND"  and 
*  "N.  CAP.  &  W";  westbound,  "GEORGETOWN,"  "GLEN 
I  ECHO,"  "CABIN  JOHN"  and  "LITTLE  FALLS  RD." 

Passing:  Catholic  University,  Trinity  College,  Soldiers'  Home, 
I  Filtration  Plant,  Glenwood  Cemetery,  Sibley  Hospital,  Government 
i  Printing  Office,  City  Post  Office,  Pension  Office,  Patent  Office,  New 
Ebbitt,  New  Willard,  Shoreham,  Cosmos  Club,  St.  John's  Church, 
Decatur  House,  Army  and  Navy  Club,  British  Embassy,  Georgetown 
I  Hospital,  Georgetown  University,  Palisades  of  the  Potomac,  Chesapeake 
j    &   Ohio   Canal,    Glen   Echo    and   Cabin   John. 

3.  Georgia  Avenue-Ninth  Street  Lines.  Four  routes 
J  all  covering  the  same  section  over  Georgia  Ave.,  9th  St.,  B  St., 
1   Missouri  Ave.  and  4TA  St. 

Line  A:  operates  between  Forest  Glen  and  Water  St. 
wharves.  Route :  southeast  from  Forest  Glen,  passing  Na- 
tional Park  Seminary,  Woodside  and  Silver  Springs  to 
Georgia  Ave.  at  District  Line ;  thence  south  on  Georgia  Ave. 
to  Florida  Ave.,  west  on  Florida  Ave.  to  9th  St.,  south  on 
9th  St.  to  B  St.,  east  on  B  St.  to  6th  St.  and  Missouri  Ave., 
southeast  on  Missouri  Ave.  to  4^  St.,  thence  south  to  P  St., 
west  on  P  St.  to  Water  St.  terminal.  Car  signs:  southbound, 
j   "WHARVES";  northbound,  "FOREST  GLEN." 


16  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Passing:  Walter  Reed  Hospital,  Brightwood,  Soldiers'  Home,  Howard 
University,  Baseball  Park,  Public  Library,  Patent  Office,  Center  Market, 
New   National   Museum  and   Army   War   College. 

Line  B:  operates  over  same  route  as  Line  A  with 
northern  terminal  at  Georgia  and  Eastern  Aves.  (District 
Line).  Car  signs:  northbound,  "EASTERN  AVE.";  south- 
bound, "WHARVES." 

Line  C:  operates  between  Water  St.  wharves  and 
Soldiers'  Home.  Route :  from  Soldiers'  Home  Gate  east  on 
Upshur  St.  to  Georgia  Ave.,  thence  south  over  same  course 
as  Line  A.  Car  signs:  northbound,  "SOLDIERS'  HOME"; 
southbound,  "WHARVES." 

Line  D:  operates  between  Takoma,  Anacostia  and 
Congress  Heights.  Route :  from  Takoma  west  on  Butternut 
St.  to  Georgia  Ave.,  thence  south  over  same  course  as  Line  A 
to  4Y2  St.,  thence  south  on  4Y2  St.  to  Maryland  Ave.*,  north- 
east on  Maryland  Ave.  to  B  and  Canal  Sts.,  southeast  on 
Canal  St.  to  E  St.,  east  on  E  St.  to  4th  St.  S.iE.,  south  on 
4th  St.  to  G  St.,  east  on  G  St.  to  nth  St.,  south  on  nth  St. 
to  Anacostia  Bridge,  across  the  bridge  to  Nichols  Ave.,  and 
south  on  Nichols  Ave.  to  Anacostia  terminal  at  Talbert  St. ; 
cars  continue  on  Nichols  Ave.  to  Congress  Heights,  and 
thence  west  on  Portland  St.  to  Steel  Plant.  Car  signs :  north- 
bound, "TAKOMA";  southbound,  "ANACOSTIA,"  "CON- 
GRESS HEIGHTS"  or  "STEEL  PLANT." 

Passing:  Same  paints  of  interest  as  Line  A  to  4^  St.;  also  Pro- 
vidence Hospital,  Garfield  Park,  Marine  Barracks,  Navy  Yard  and  St. 
Elizabeth   Hospital   for  Insane. 

4.  Fourth  Street  Line:  operates  between  Steamboat 
wharves  (M  and  Water  Sts.  S.  W.)  and  W  St.  and  Georgia 
Ave.  N.  W.  Route:  northwest  on  Water  St.  to  nth  St., 
north  on  nth  St.  to  Virginia  Ave.,  northwest  on  Virginia 
Ave.  to  B  St.,  west  on  B  St.  to  14th  St.,  north  on  14th  St. 
to  G  St.  N.  W.,  east  on  G  St.  to  5th  St.,  north  on  5th  St. 
to  New  York  Ave.,  northeast  on  New  York  Ave.  to  4th  St., 
north  on  4th  St.  to  Florida  Ave.,  east  on  Florida  Ave.  to 
3d  St,  north  on  3d  St.  to  Elm  St.,  west  on  Elm  St.  to  4th  St., 
north  on  4th  St.  to  W  St.,  west  on  W  St.  to  Georgia  Ave. 
Car  signs:  northbound,  "LEDROIT  PARK";  southbound, 
"WHARVES." 

Passing:  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  Agricultural  Depart- 
ment Building,  Washington  Monument,  Municipal  Building,  Hotel 
Willard,  Patent  Office,  Pension  Office,  St.  Mary's-  R.  C.  Church,  Con- 
vention  Hall,    Freedmen's   Hospital    and    Howard   University. 

5.  Monroe-Eleventh  Street  Lines.  Three  routes  all 
covering  same  section  of  nth  St.  from  Monroe  St.  to  F  St. 


URBAN  TRAVEL  17 

Line  A:  operates  between  Monroe  St.  N.  W.  and 
14th  and  Water  Sts.  S.  W.  Route :  south  from  Monroe  St. 
terminal  on  nth  St.  to  E  St.,  west  on  E.  St.  to  14th  St.,  south 
on  14th  St.  to  Water  St.  Car  signs:  northbound,  "11TH  ST. 
N.W.";  southbound,  "14TH  &  WATER"  or  "BUREAU 
ENGRAVING." 

Passing:  New  Central  High  School,  Garfield  Hospital,  Agricultural 
Department,  Washington  Monument  and  Bureau  of  Engraving  and 
Printing. 

Line  B:  operates  between  Monroe  St.  terminal  and 
9th  and  F  Sts.  N.  W.  Route :  same  as  Line  A  to  F  St.,  thence 
east  on  F  St.  to  9th  St.  terminal.  Car  signs :  northbound, 
"11TH  ST.  N.W.";  southbound,  "9TH  &  F  ST." 

Line  C:  operates  between  Monroe  St.  terminal  and 
4*A  St.  and  Missouri  Ave. 

6.  Eleventh  Street  Line:  operates  between  nth 
and  Monroe  Sts.  N.  W.  and  Congress  Heights.  Route: 
Southbound  cars  run  from  Monroe  St.  terminal  south  on 
nth  St.  to  F  St.,  east  on  F  St.  to  9th  St.,  south  on  9th  St. 

[     to  B  St.  S.  W.,  east  on  B  St.  to  6th  St.,  south  on  6th  St. 

to    Missouri    Ave.,    southeast    on    Missouri    Ave.    to    4^4    St. 

Car    signs:    northbound,    "11TH     ST.    N.  W.";    southbound, 
I     "4J/2  &  MO.  AVE." 

Passing:  Central  High  School,  Garfield  Hospital,  Patent  Office, 
Center    Market,    National    Museum,    and    Public    Gardens. 

7.  Columbia  Line:  operates  between  15th  St.  and  New 
York  Ave.  N.  W.  and  15th  and  H  Sts.  N.E,  and  District 
Line  (near  63d  St.  and  Eastern  Ave.).  Route  :  from  15th  St. 
terminal,  cars  run  northeast  on  New  York  Ave.  to  Mt.  Vernon 
Sq.,  thence  southeast  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  to  4th  and  H  Sts., 
thence  east,  on  H  St.  to  District  Line  at  15th  Sit.  N.  E. ;  thence 
east  on  Benning  Road,  crossing  the  Anacostia  River  to  Kenil- 
worth  Ave.,  and  north  on  Kenilworth  Ave.  to  Deane  Ave. 
At   this  point   some   cars   continue   N.  to   Kenilworth ;   others 

1  diverge  E.  on  Deane  Ave.  to  District  Line  and  station  of 
Chesapeake  Beach  R.  R.  Car  signs :  westbound,  "TREAS- 
URY";  castbound,  "15TH  &  H,  N.  E.,"  "KENILWORTH," 
or  "DISTRICT  LINE." 

Passing:  Masonic  Temple,  Public  Library,  Government  Printing 
Office,   Benning  and   Chesapeake  Junction. 

8.  Bladensburg  Line:  operates  between  15th  and  H 
Sts.  and  Berwyn,  Md.  Route:  from  H  and  15th  Sts.  N.  E., 
along  the  historic  Bladensburg  Coach  Road  to  Riverdale  and 
Berwyn.       Car     signs:    northbound,    "EASTERN     AVE.    & 


18  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

BLADENSBURG    RD.,"  "BERWYN,"  or  "RIVERDALE" 
southbound,  "15TH  &  H  STS.  N.  E." 

Passing:  Mt.  Olivet  Cemetery,  National  Training  School  for  Boys, 
Bladensburg  Duelling  Grounds  and  old  villages  of  Bladensburg  and 
Riverdale. 

9.  Maryland  Line:  operates  between  15th  and  G  Sts. 
N.  W.  and  District  Line,  Riverdale,  Berwyn  and  Laurel, 
Md.  Route:  from  terminus  at  15th  and  G  Sts.,  east  on  G 
St.  to  5th  St.,  thence  north  on  5th  St.  to  L  St.  and  New- 
York  Ave.,  northeast  on  New  York  Ave.  to  1st  St.  N.  E. 
and  Eckington  Place,  north  on  Eckington  Place  to  R  St.,  east 
on  R  St.  to  3d  St.,  north  on  3d  St.  to  T  St.,  east  on  T  St. 
to  4th  St.,  north  on  4th  St.  to  W  St.  and  Rhode  Island  Ave., 
thence  northeast  on  Rhode  Island  Ave.  to  District  Line  and 
over  private  tracks  to  Mt.  Ranier,  Hyattsvile,  Riverdale, 
Berwyn  and  Laurel.  Car  signs:  westbound,  "TREASURY"; 
eastbound,  "MT.  RANIER,"  "RIVERDALE,"  "BERWYN" 
or  "LAUREL." 

Passing:  Patent  Office,  Pension  Office,  Convention  Hall,  Mt  Ranier, 
Lord  Baltimore  Mansion,  Maryland  Agricultural  College  and  Normal 
Institute. 

10.  Georgetown  -  Tenleytown  -  Rockville   Lines.     Two 

routes,  both  of  which  traverse  the  same  section  of  Wisconsin 
Ave.  to  junction  with  Massachusetts  Ave. 

Line  A:  operates  between  Wisconsin  Ave.  and  M  St., 
Georgetown  and  Rockville,  Md.  Route :  northward  on  Wis- 
consin Ave.  to  District  Line  and  beyond,  passing  through 
Tenleytown  and  Somerset.  Car  signs :  northbound,  "SOM- 
ERSET" or  "ROCKVILLE";  southbound,  '^GEORGE 
TOWN." 


. 


Passing:  Naval  Observatory,  National  Domestic  Science  School, 
Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  Bureau  of  Standards,  Somerset, 
Edgemoor    and    Alta   Vista. 

Line  B:  operates  between  M  St.,  Georgetown  and 
Massachusetts  Ave.  at  District  Line.  Route:  north  on  Wis- 
consin Ave.  to  McComb  St.,  west  on  Mc'Comb  St.  to  Massa- 
chusetts Ave.,  thence  northwest  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  to  Dis- 
trict Line.  Car  signs :  northbound,  "AMERICAN  UNIVER- 
SITY," and  "WESTERN  AVE.";  southbound,  "GEORGE- 
TOWN." 

Passing:  Naval  Observatory,  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul 
and  American  University. 


URBAN  TRAVEL  ig 

WASHINGTON  AND  OLD  DOMINION  RAILWAY 

This  company  operates  two  lines  as  follows  : 

i.  Bluemont  Division:  operates  between  Georgetown 
terminal  at  36th  and  M  Sts.,  and  Bluemont,  Va.  Route :  via 
Aqueduct  Bridge,  Rosslyn,  Va.,  Bluemont  Junction,  Falls 
Church,  Leesburg  and  intermediate  stations. 

2.  Great  Falls  Division:  operates  between  Georgetown 
terminal  and  Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac.  Route:  via  Aque- 
duct Bridge,  Rosslyn,  Va.,  Cherrydale,  McLean  and  interme- 
diate stations. 

IV A SHINGTON- VIRGI NJA  RA IL  WA  Y 
This  company  operates  two  lines  as  follows  : 

1.  Mount  Vernon  Division:  operates  between  Washington 
terminal  at  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  12th  St.,  and  Mount  Ver- 
non terminal  opposite  North  Gate  Lodge  (p.  487).  Route: 
from  starting  point  on  D  St.,  S.  on  12th  St.  to  C  St. ;  thence 
W.  on  C  St.  to  Ohio  Ave.,  S.  W.  on  Ohio  Ave.  to  14th  St. 
S.    on    14th    St.    to    Potomac    Park;    thence    S.    W.    through 

I  Potomac  Park  to  Highway  Bridge  (crossing  the  Potomac 
River),  reaching  Arlington  Junction,  Va.,  Four  Mile  Run, 
Hume,  Riverside  and  Mount  Vernon. 

2.  Falls  Church  Division,  Branch  A:  operates  between 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  terminal  at  12th  and  D  Sts.  and  Fairfax, 
Va.  Route :  same  as  Mount  Vernon  Division  to  Arlington 
Junction ;  thence  through  Hatfield,  Columbia,  Nauck,  Alex- 
andria County  Court  House,  Clarendon,  Vienna,  Oakton  and 
intermediate  stations. 

Branch  B:  operates  between  Rosslyn,  Va.  (via  Long 
Bridge  from  Georgetown),  and  Fairfax.  Route:  via  Arling- 
ton, Fort  Myer,  Radio  and  Hatfield,  thence  same  as  branch  A. 

WASHINGTON,   BALTIMORE   AND   ANNAPOLIS   ELECTRIC 

RAILROAD 

This  company  operates  two  lines  as  follows : 
1.  Baltimore  branch:  operates  express  trains  every  half 
hour  between  Washington  terminal  at  New  York  Ave.  and 
14th  St.  and  Baltimore  terminal  at  103  North  Liberty  St., 
cor.  Marion  St.  and  Park  Ave.  Running  time  85  min.  Free 
transfers  to  pasisengers  arriving  in  Washington  to  all  lines  of 
the  Washington  Railway  and  Electric  Companies. 


20  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

2.  Annapolis  Branch:  operates  hourly  trains  between 
Washington  terminal  at  14th  St.  and  New  York  Ave.,  and 
Annapolis  terminal,  opposite  Naval  Academy  Gate. 

b.     Taxicabs 

Ta.x-icabs  are  to  be  found  at  the  Union  Station  and  at  all 
the  large  hotels  and  public  cab  stands  throughout  the  city. 
They  can  be  ordered  by  telephone  from  any  point.  The  two 
largest  taxicab  companies  are  the  Federal  Taxicab  Co.  (office, 
212  13th  St.  N.  W. ;  telephone  number,  Main  8000)  and  Ter- 
minal Taxicab  Co.,  Inc.  (office,  1231  20th  St.  N.  VY. ;  telephone 
number,  North  1212).  At  the  stations  and  hotels  the  taxicabs 
are  under  the  direction  of  a  "starter"  who  may  be  consulted 
concerning  the  amount  of  fare.  A  table  of  rates  is  posted  in 
each  taxicab,  and  the  fare  can  be  roughly  computed  before- 
hand by  reckoning  ten  blocks  to  a  mile. 

Taxicab  Rates.  For  the  first  half  mile  or  any  fraction  thereof,  50c; 
each  additional  quarter  mile,  10c  Articles  of  'luggage,  suit  cases, 
steamer  trunks,  etc.,  10c.  each.  Several  taxicab  companies  advertise  a 
schedule  lower  than  the  legal  rates.  For  example,  the  Brown  and 
White  Cab  Co.  (Main  430)  charges  30c.  for  first  one-third  mile,  and 
ioc.  for  each  additional  one-third  mile. 

c.     Motor   Bus   Lines 

The  establishment  of  urban  omnibus  lines  by  the  Wash- 
ington Rapid  Transit  Co.  (office,  14th  and  Buchanan,  Sts.)  is 
a  recent  innovation,  and  has  acquired  a  prompt  popularity 
because  these  busses  form  a  connecting  link  between  the  shop- 
ping centre  and  certain  portions  of  the  residential  district  less 
readily  accessible  by  the  car  lines.  Visitors  will  find  that  by 
taking  these  busses  from  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  between  8th  and 
12th  Sts.,  they  will  save  considerable  time  in  reaching  points 
on  1 6th  St.  above  Scott  Circle,  the  Scottish  Rites  Temple, 
Meridian  Park,  the  Harvard  St.  entrance  to  the  Zoological 
Park,  etc.  The  fare  is  8c,  payable  on  entry.  Four  routes  are 
in  operation    ('March,   1922),  and   others  are  projected. 

1.  Pennsylvania  Ave.-Buchanan  St.  Line.  Route: 
from  Market  Space  terminal  (Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  8th  St.) 
westward  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  12th  St.,  north  on  12th  St. 
to  Massachusetts  Ave.,  northwest  on  Massachusetts  Ave.  to 
16th  St.,  north  on  16th  St.  to  Buchanan  St.,  east  on  Buchanan 
St.  to  terminal  at   14th  St. 

Passing:  Post  Office  Department,  Raleigh  Hotel,  Scott  Circle,  Car- 
negie Institution,  iFrench  Embassy,  Congressional  Club,  Meridian  Park, 
Jeanne  d'A'rc   Statue  and    Piney   Branch   Bridge. 


URBAN  TRAVEL  21 

2.  Pennsylvania  Ave.-Petworth  Line.  Route:  from 
Market  Space  terminal  (Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  8th  St.)  over 
same  course  as  Line  1  to  Harvard  St.,  thence  east  on  Harvard 
St.  to  13th  St.,  north  on  13th  St.  to  Park  Road  and  New 
Hampshire  Ave.,  thence  northeast  on  New  Hampshire  Ave. 
to  terminal  at  Grant  Circle,  Petworth. 

Passing   same  points   of    interest  as   Line    i. 

3.  Potomac  Park-Buchanan  St.  Line.  Route:  from 
terminal  at  Navy  Department  Building  eastward  on  B  St.  to 
17th  St.,  north  on  17th  St.  to  H  St.,  east  on  H  St.  to  16th  St., 
N.  on  16th  St.  to  Buchanan  St.,  E.  to  14th  St.  terminal. 

Passing:  Pan-American  Union,  Continental  Memorial  Hall,  Ameri- 
can Red  Cross,  Corcoran  Gallery,  State,  Army  and  Navy  Building, 
Court  of  Claims,  Decatur  House,  Lafayette  Sq.,  St.  John's  Church, 
Russian  Embassy,  Scott  Circle;^  also  same  points  of   interest  as  Line   I. 

4.  Potomac  Park-Petworth  Line.  Route:  from  ter- 
minal at  Navy  Department  Building  eastward  on  B  St.  and 
over  same  course  as  Line  3  to  Harvard  St.,  thence  east  on 
Harvard  St.  to  13th  St.,  north  on  13th  St,  to  Park  Road  and 
New  Hampshire  Ave.,  thence  northeast  on  'New  Hampshire 
Ave.  to  terminal  at  Grant  Circle,  Petworth ;  returning  over 
New  Hampshire  Ave.,  13th  St.  and  west  on  Columbia  Road 
to  16th  St.,  thence  over  same  route  as  above  given. 

Passing  same  lines  of   interest  as  Line   3. 

SUBURBAN   MOTOR-BUS   LINES 
i.     Washington  -  Alexandria   Line.      These   omnibuses- 
start   from  S.  E.  cor.  of   12th  and  D   Sts.,  and  run  on  a  ten 
minute  headway  throughout  the  day.     Fare,  15c. 

2.  Washington  -  Baltimore  -  Annapolis  Line.  These 
omnibuses  start  from  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  8th  St.  (Market 
Space),  running  some  20  miles  into  Maryland  along  the  Balti- 
more and  Annapolis  highway.     Usually  four  trips  a  day. 

3.  Marlboro  Line.  Route:  from  8th  St.  and  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  southeasterly  to  Marlboro,  iMd.,  about  16  miles. 

d.     Sight-Seeing   Cars 

The  Sight-seeing  Automobiles  occupy  in  Washington  a 
rather  prominent  position.  There  are  many  rival  lines,  the 
majority  of  which  offer  three  different  trips,  covering  in  each 
case  approximately  the  same  territory:  Tour  A.  "Seeing 
Washington" ;  on  this  trip  cars  run  daily  every  hour,  from  10 
A.  M.  until  4  P.  M.  during  the  winter  season,  and  from  9 
A.  M.  to  5  P.  M.  between  Apr.  15  and  Sept.  15,  making  the 
circuit  of  the  principal  points  of  interest  within  the  city  limits. 
Uniform   price,   $1.00;    Tour    B:    Personally    conducted    trip 


22  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

through  the  public  buildings ;  one  trip  daily,  except  Sundays, 
usually  at  10  a.  m.  Price,  including  fees,  $1.50;  Tour  C:  a 
suburban  excursion  usually  including  the  northwest  residential 
section  of  Washington,  the  National  Zoological  Park,  George- 
town, Ft.  Myer  and  Arlington.  Some  lines  make  two  week- 
day trips  at  1  and  3  'P.  M. ;  others  make  only  the  3  P.  M.  trip. 
Sundays,  three  trips:  10  (or  11)  A.M.,  1  and  3  P.M.  Price 
$1.50;  Tour  D:  Some  lines  offer  a  personally  conducted  tour 
to  Alexandria  and  Mt.  Vernon.  Cars  start  daily,  except  Sun- 
days, at  10  A.  'M.,  the  round  trip  occupying  four  hours.  Price 
(including  guide  and  admission  fees)  $3.00. 

The  majority  of  the  Sight-seeing  Automobile  Companies, 
of  which  a  list  is  given  below,  run  during  the  winter  season 
glass-enclosed  and  wel'l-heated  touring  cars. 

Congressional  Sight  Seeing  Car,  103  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
Gray  Line  Sight  Seeing  Tours,  1417  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
Red  Star  Sight  Seeing  Company,  501^4  14th  St. 
Royal  Blue  Line  Sight  Seeing  Co.,  1237  Penn.  Ave. 
Green  Line  Sight   Seeing  Tours,  2   F   St. 

V.     Postal   Facilities;   Telegraph   Offices 
a.     Postal  Facilities 

The  Washington  City  Post  Office  (p.  357),  at  'Massachusetts 
Ave.  and  North  Capitol  St.,  is  open  day  and  night.  The 
Money  Order  Office  is  open  daily  from  8  A.  M.  to  9  P.  M., 
except  Sundays  and  Holidays.  The  Registry  Section  is  open 
continuously,  and  here  Money  Orders  may  be  obtained  on 
Sundays  and  Holidays ;  also  at  night  after  the  Money  Order 
windows  are  closed.  The  General  Delivery  Windows  (for 
"Poste  Restante"  letters)  are  open  daily  from  7  A.  M.  to 
midnight,  except  Sundays.  The  Parcel  Post  Section  for  the 
reception  of  Parcel  Post  mail  is  open  continuously.  The 
Retail  Stamp  Windozvs  are  open,  week  days,  from  7  A.  M.  to 
11  P.  M. ;  Sundays  from  10.30  A.  M.  to  2  P.  M.  At  other 
times  stamps  in  small  quantities  may  be  obtained  at  the 
Registry  Division.  The  Wholesale  Stamp  Department  is  open 
from  8.30  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays. 

Besides  the  Government  Post  Office  District,  the  city  is 
divided  into  about  thirty  Postal  districts,  each  served  by  a 
Branch  Post  Office,  designated  by  local  names  : 

Anacostia  Station,  2018  Nichols  Ave.,  S.  E. ;  Benning  Station,  Ben- 
ning  Rd.  and  Anacostia  Ave.:  Brightwood  Station,  Georgia  and  Colo- 
rado Aves.;  Brookland  Station,  12th  and  Monroe  Sts.,  N.  E.;  Central  Sta- 
tion, 15th  and  H  Sts.,  N.  W. ;  Columbia  Rd.  Station,  1775  Columbia  Rd., 
N.  W. ;    Congress   Heights   Station,    400   Nichols   Ave.,  S.  E.;    Connecticut 


POSTAL  AND  TELEGRAPH  23 

Ave.  Station,  1220  Connecticut  Ave..  N.  W.;  11th  St.  Station,  514  nth 
St.,  N.  W.;  F  St.  Station,  800  F  St.,  N.  W.;  Florida  Ave.  Station,  Con- 
necticut and  Florida  Aves.;  14th  St.  Station,  1400  14th  St.,  N.  W. ; 
Friendship  Station,  4511  Wisconsin  Ave.,  N.  W. ;  Georgetown  Station, 
31st  and  M  Sts.,  N.  W.;  Langdon  Station,  24th  and  Douglas  Sts.,  N.  E. ; 
Navy  Dept.  Station,  19th  and  B  Sts.,  N.  W.;  Northeast  Station,  703 
Maryland  Ave.,  N.  E. ;  Park  Rd.  Station,  1413  Park  Rd.,  N.  W. ; 
Park  View  Station,  Warder  and  Newton  Sts.,  N.  W. ;  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  Station,  1716  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  N.  W.;  Randle  Highlands  Station, 
2500  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  S.  E.;  St.  James  Station,  484  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  N.  W.;  7th  St.  Station,  11 18  7th  St.,  N.  W. :  Seat  Pleasant 
Station,  63d  &  Eastern  Ave.,  N.  E. ;  Southeast1  Station,  640  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.,  S.  E. ;  Southwest  Station,  416  7th  St.,  S.  W. ;  Takoma  Park 
Station,  6818  4th  St.,  Takoima  Park,  D.  C. ;  Treasury  Station,  U.  S. 
Treasury;  Truxton  Circle  Station,  1538  N.  Capitol  St.;  U  St.  Station, 
U  St.  betw.  14th  and  15th  Sts.;  Walter  Reed  Station,  Walter  Reed 
Hospital;  Woodley  Rd.  Station,  Wardman  Park  Hotel;  Woodridge  Sta- 
tion,  2103    Rhode   Island   Ave.,  N.    E. 

Letter  Boxes  (painted  green  when  outdoors)  will  be 
found  at  conveniently  brief  intervals,  affixed  to  lamp  posts, 
or  within  many  of  the  large  office  buildings  and  hotels. 
Schedules  of  the  time  of  collecting  are  posted  on  all  of  the 
letter  boxes.  There  are  only  three  deliveries  a  day,  on  week 
'  days,  both  in  the  business  and  residential  districts  (six  deliv- 
eries to  the  leading  hotels).  No  letters  are  delivered  on 
Sundays,  except  "Special  Delivery"  letters.  There  are  from 
eight  to  twenty  collections  on  week  days,  varying  in  the  dif- 
ferent districts ;  three  collections  on  Holidays,  and  two  on 
Sundays. 

(For  postal  rates  and  other  general  postal  regulations,  see  Rider's 
New  York  City,  pp.   45-47.) 

b.     Telegraph  and  Cable  Offices 

For  details  regarding  the  Telegraph  service  of  the 
United  States  the  foreign  visitor  is  referred  to  Rider's  New 
York  City,  p.  47.  The  Washington  services  of  the  two  principal 
companies  are  as  follows : 

Western  Union  Telegraph  Company:  main  office,  1.401 
V  St.  N.  W. ;  branch  offices,  613  and  900  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
N.  W. ;  705  15th  St.  N.  W. ;  1213  Wisconsin  Ave.  N.  W. ; 
United  States  Capitol  (in  corridor  leading  to  House  Wing)  ; 
1 104  Connecticut  Ave.  N,  W. ;  7th  St.  at  corner  of  F  St. 
N.  W. ;  1420  Columbia  Road  N.  W. ;  House  Office  Building. 
New  Jersey  Ave.  and  B  St.  S.  E. ;  Union  Station,  facing 
Plaza  at  Delaware  and  Massachusetts  Aves.  N.  E. ;  Colo- 
rado Building,  cor.  14th  and  G  Sts.  N.  W. ;  New  Willard 
Hotel,  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  14th  St.  N.  W. ;  Woodward 
Building,  1731  15th  St.  N.  W. ;  also  in  all  the  principal  Gov- 
ernmental Departments. 


24  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Postal  Telegraph-Cable  Company:  main  office,  Evans 
Building,  1422  New  York  Ave.  N.  W. ",  branch  offices,  F  St. 
corner  of  8th  St.  N.  W.;  Woodward  and  Lothrop,  F  St. 
corner  of  nth  St.  N.  W.;  1128  Connecticut  Ave.;  1249  Wis- 
consin Ave.  N.  W. ;.  United  States  Capitol  (in  Senate  base- 
ment) ;  Union  Station;  National  Hotel,  corner  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  and  6th  St.  N.  W. ;  and  in  all  Government  Departments. 


VI.     Theatres,  Concerts  and  Other  Places  of 
Entertainment 

Washington  is  exceptional  among  world  Capitals  in  its 
relative  dearth  of  high-class  playhouses.  It  has  no  permanent 
local  stock  companies,  and  is  dependent  upon  brief  engage- 
ments (usually  one-week  stands  or  less)  of  companies  on 
tour.  It  is  significant  that  two  of  the  best  built  modern 
houses  in  the  city,  the  Belasco  and  Keith's,  are  wholly  given 
over  to  vaudeville. 

Poll's  Theatre  (PI.  II— -D5),  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  E.  side, 
betw.  14th  and  15th  Sts.  High-class  drama,  musical  comedy, 
etc.     iSeating  capacity,   1900. 

The  prices  of  seats  vary  from  week  to  week  according  to  the 
character  and  importance  of  the  production.  The  following  prices 
represent  the  maximum   scale  for   a   high-class   musical   show. 

Evenings,  including  Saturdays:  Box  seats,  $3.85;  orchestra,  $3.36; 
orchestra  circle,  $2.75;  balcony,  first  four  rows,  $2.20;  next  three 
rows,  $1.65;  remaining  rows,  $1.10;  second  balcony,  first  four  rows, 
83c;  remaining  rows,  58c.  Saturday  matinee:  Box  seats,  $2.75; 
orchestra,  $2.20;  orchestra  circle,  $2.20;  balcony,  first  four  rows,  $2.20; 
next  three  rows,  $1.65;  remaining  rows  $1.10;  second  balcony,  55c. 
Thursday  matinee:  Box  seats  $2.20;  orchestra  and  orchestra  circle, 
$1.65;  balcony,  first  four  rows,  $1.65;  remaining  rows,  $1.10;  second 
balcony    55c. 

New  National  Theatre  (PI.  I— A2;  p.  107),  1325  E  St. 
High-class  drama,  opera,  musical  shows,  concerts  and  lectures. 

The  following  prices  represent  the  usual  scale  for  the  average 
dramatic  show:  Evenings  and  Saturday  matinee:  Box  seats,  $3.30; 
orchestra,  $2.75;  balcony,  $2.20,  $1.65  and  $1.10;  gallery,  55c.  Wed- 
nesday matinee:  Box  seats,  $3.30;  orchestra,  $2.20;  balcony,  $1.65  and 
$1.10;   gallery,    55c. 

The  following  is  the  maximum  scale  for  special  productions,  musical 
reviews,  etc.:  Evenings:  Box  seats,  $4.40;  orchestra,  $3.30;  balcony, 
$2.75,  $2.20  and  $1.65;  gallery,  $1.10  and  55c.  Saturday  matinee: 
Box  seats,  $3.30;  orchestra,  $2.75;  balcony,  $2.20  and  $1.65;  gallery, 
$1.10  and  55c.  Wednesday  matinee:  Box  seats,  $3.30;  orchestra,  $2.20; 
balcony,   $1.65   and   $1.10;   gallery,   55c. 

Shubert-Garrick  Theatre  (Pi.  I— C2),  S.  E.  cor.  7th  and 
F  Sts.     High-class  drama.     Seating  capacity,  961. 


THEATRES    AND    CONCERTS  25 

Average  prices:  Evenings,  including  Saturday:  Lower  box  seats, 
$2.75;  upper  box  seats,  $2.20;  loge  seats,  $2.20;  orchestra,  $2.20; 
balcony,  rows  A  to  D,  $1.65;  rows  E  to  H,  $1.10;  rows  I  and  J,  ^sc. 
Matinees:  Lower  box  seats.  $2.20;  upper  box  and  loge  seats,  $iT6s ; 
orchestra,  $1.65;   balcony,  rows  A  to  H,   $1.10;   I   and  J,   55c. 

New  Capitol  Theatre  (PI.  I — B2;  p.  104),  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  E.  side,  betw.  10th  and  nth  Sts. 

Evenings  and  Sunday  matinees:  Box  seats,  $1.25;  orchestra,  rows 
1-14,  $1.10;  rows  15-18,  85c;  remaining  rows,  75c;  balcony,  55c. 
Sunday  evenings  and  holidays:  Box  seats,  $1.65;  orchestra,  rows  1-14, 
$1.10;  remaining  rows,  83c;  balcony,  rows  1-10,  55c;  remaining  rows, 
28c.     Weekday  matinees:     Box  9eats,  85c;  orchestra,  55c;  balcony,  28c. 

Shubert-Belasco  Theatre  (PI.  II — D4;  p.  187),  Madison 
Place,  facing  Lafayette  Square.     Vaudeville. 

Evenings,  Monday  to  Friday:  Box  seats,  $1.65;  orchestra,  $1.10; 
mezzanine  $1.10;  balcony,  rows  1-5,  83c;  remaining  rows,  55c;  gallery, 
28c.  Saturday,    Sunday    and    holiday    evenings:     Box    seats,     $1.65; 

orchestra  and  mezzanine,  $1.65;  balcony,  rows  1-5,  $1.10;  remaining 
rows,  83c;  gallery,  28c.  Matinees:  Monday  to  Friday:  Box  seats, 
$1.10;  orchestra  and  mezzanine,  55c;  balcony,  39c;  gallery,  28c. 
I  Matinees:  Saturday,  Sunday  and  holidays:  Box  seats,  $1.65;  orchestra 
and  mezzanine,  $1.10;  balcony,  rows  1-5,  83c;  remaining  rows,  55c; 
gallery,    28c. 

Keith's  Theatre    (PI.   II— D4),   S.   E.  cor.  15th  and  G 
Sts.     Vaudeville. 

Evenings  and  holiday  matinees:  Box  seats,  $2.20;  orchestra,  rows 
A  to  K,  $2.20;  rows  L  to  T,  $1.65;  rows  U  to  W,  $1.10;  mezzanine, 
rows  A  to  C,  $1.10;  rows,  D  to  I,  83c;  balcony,  rows  A  to  F,  55c; 
*  rows  G  to  K,  39c.  Matinees:  Monday  to  Friday:  Box  seats,  $1.10; 
orchestra,  rows  A  to  F,  $1.10;  rows  G  to  T,  83c;  rows  U  to  W,  55c; 
Mezzanine,  rows  A  to  C,  55c;  rows  D  to  I,  39c;  balcony,  28c. 
Matinees:  Saturday  and  Sunday:  Box  seats,  $1.65;  orchestra,  rows 
A  to  F,  $1.65;  rows  D  to  T,  $1.10;  rows  U  to  W,  83c;  mezzanine, 
rows  A  to  C,  83c;  rows  D  to  I,  55c;  balcony,  rows  A  to  F,  39c;  rows 
G   to  K,  28c. 

Gayety  Theatre  (PI.  I— B2),  511  9th  St.     Burlesque. 

Evenings:  Monday  to  Saturday,  and  holiday  matinees:  Box  seats, 
$1.25;  orchestra,  $1.25;  balcony,  rows  A  to  G,  75c;  rows  H.  to  M, 
50c.  Sunday  and  holiday  evenings:  Box  seats,  $1.25;  orchestra,  $1.25; 
balcony,  rows  A  to  J,  85c;  rows  K  to  M,  55c.  Matinees:  Monday 
to  Saturday:  Box  seats,  $1.10;  orchestra,  rows  A  to  N.  75c;  rows 
O  to  Y,  50c. ;  balcony,  rows  A  to.  G  50c;  rows  H  to  M,  30c.  Sunday 
matinees:  Box  seats,  $1.25;  orchestra  A  to  N,  $1.10;  rows  O  to  Y, 
75c,  balcony,  rows  A  to  G,  50c;  rows  H  to  M,  30c. 

Cosmos   Theatre    (PI.    I — B2),   919    Pennsylvania   Ave. 
Vaudeville. 

Evenings   and   Saturday,    Sunday   and   holiday  matinees:      Orchestra, 
65c;    balcony,    40c.      Matinees:      Monday    to    Friday:      Orchestra,    40c; 
1     balcony   25c. 


26  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

There  are  in  addition  a  considerable  number  of  Motion 
Picture  theatres  at  popular  prices,  usually  ranging  between 
20c.  and  6oc.    Among  those  centrally  located  are  the  following : 

Loew's  Columbia  Theatre,   cor.    of   F  and   11th   Sts. 
Loew's  Palace  Theatre,   cor   F  and   13th   Sts. 
Crandall's  Theatre,   cor.   E    and   9th   Sts. 
Crandall's  Metropolitan  Theatre,   934-36   F   St. 
Crandall's  Savoy  Theatre,  14th  St.  and  Columbia  Road. 
Hippodrome,   9th   St.   and   New  York  Ave. 
Regent  Theatre,  cor.  U  and  18th  Sts. 
Circle  Theatre,    210S   Pennsylvania  Ave. 

Concerts  and   Other  Musical  Entertainments 

Washington  has  no  high-class  concert  hall  or  other  audi- 
torium reserved  exclusively  for  musical  entertainments.  Con- 
certs of  the  higher  grade  are  usually  given  at  the  National 
Theatre  (p.  107),  mornings  or  afternoons  and  Sunday  eve- 
ning. These  concerts  are  regularly  advertised  in  the  daily  papers 
with  notice  where  tickets  may  be  purchased  (seldom  at  theatre 
box  office).  Other  halls  often  used  for  concerts  are  that  of 
the  New  Masonic  Temple,  New  York  Ave.  and  13th  St.,  and 
the  auditorium  of  the  Central  High  School  (p.  431). 

VII.     Sports,  Games,   Etc. 

There  is  an  abundant  variety  of  sports  practiced  within 
the  District  of  Columbia;  and  the  casual  visitor  will  not  only 
have  ample  opportunities  for  watching  his  favorite  games,  but 
facilities  for  participating  in  them  as  well.  In  all  sports  within 
the  District  the  color  line  is  rigorously  drawn. 

No  account  of  sports  within  the  District  would  be  com- 
plete without  mention  of  the  Racquet  Club  (p.  30),  which 
promotes  all  kinds  of  sports.  This  club  has  indoor  tennis 
courts,  racquet  courts,  gymnasium,  swimming  pool,  etc.,  and 
resembles  the  New  York  Athletic  Club  both  in  its  appoint- 
ments and  its  standing  with  regard  to  local  athletics.^  A 
stranger  visiting  Washington,  if  armed  with  a  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  a  member  of  the  Racquet  Club,  would  find  easy 
access  to  any  favorite  sport.  Strangers  not  so  armed  and 
desiring  information  about  sports,  would  do  best  by  consulting 
the  sporting  department  on  any  daily  paper,  which  will  gladly 
give  such  information  by  phone. 

Athletics.  Gymnasiums:  The  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  G  St.  betw. 
17th  and  1 8th  Sts.;  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.,  14th  and  G  Sts.  and  the 
K.  of    C.   Hall,   916    10th   St.         Track   Athletic    meets,   both 


SPORTS    AND    GAMES  27 

indoor  and  outdoor,  occur  at  various  times  during  the  year, 
colleges  and  clubs  being  the  participants.  There  is  no  regular 
schedule. 

BasebalL  The  Washington  American  League  Baseball 
Team  plays  at  American  League  Park  (p.  430),  7th  St.  and 
Florida  Ave.  (when  not  on  the  road),  from  April  15  to  Oct.  I. 
There  are  about  a  dozen  amateur  leagues  in  the  District,  which 
play  in  various  fields,  their  schedules  of  games  extending  from 
May  1  to  Sept.  1.  Four  of  the  Diamonds  used  by  these  teams 
are  on  the  Ellipse  behind  the  White  House;  four  others  are 
on  the  Washington  Monument  grounds;  and  still  another  is  on 
the  grounds  of  the  Railroad  Y.  M.  C.  A.  adjoining  Union  Sta- 
tion on  the  E.  Any  one  can  attend  these  games  free  of  charge ; 
there  are,  however,  no  seats.  There  are  also  semi-professional 
teams  which  play  at  Union  Park,  15th  and  H  Sts.  N.E.  every 
Sunday,  from  May  1  to  Oct.  1.  From  late  March  to  June 
there  are  college  games,  played  on  Georgetown  University 
Field,  36th  and  O  Sts. ;  Catholic  University  Field,  7th  St.  and 

[    Michigan  Ave.,  N.  E.  and  at  Gallaudet  College  Field,  7th  St. 

'    and  Florida  Ave.,  N.E. 

Bowling.  A  prominent  sport  in  Washington.  Thirty 
leagues  play  matches  from  Oct.  to  June.  There  are  many 
public  alleys  where  nominal  fees  are  charged. 

Boxing.  This  sport  is  forbidden  within  the  District,  and 
so  strictly  is  the  law  enforced  that  it  is  not  even  permitted  to 
demonstrate  blows  on  the  stage.  The  only  boxing  to  be  seen 
nearer  than  Baltimore  is  at  the  Service  bouts  at  Fort  Myer, 
across  the  river  in  Virginia.  An  admission  fee  is  charged,  the 
proceeds  going  to  the  Army  Athletic  Association. 

Canoeing.  One  of  the  leading  sports  in  Washington  dur- 
ing the  summer.  All  the  canoe  clubs  are  located  along  the 
Potomac  River,  W.  of  Rock  Creek.  The  principal  clubs  are 
the  Washington  Canoe  Club,  the  Colonial  Canoe  Club,  the 
Raccar  Canoe  Club  and  the  Sycamore  Island  Canoe  Club.  And 
there  are  numerous  smaller  ones.  The  Washington  Canoe  Club 
is  a  member  of  the  Chesapeake-Delaware  Division  of  the 
American   Canoe   Association  and  has   a   famous    four. 

Fencing.  The  Washington  Fencing  Club  holds  public 
matches  with  teams  from  other  cities. 

Football.     A  leading  sport  in  Washington.    College  games 

are  played  here  during  the  season  by  Georgetown  University 

(at  American  League  Park,  7th  St.  and  Florida  Ave.,  N.E.). 

i    by  George  Washington  University,  Gallaudet  College,  the  Cath- 


28  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

olic  University  and  the  University  of  Maryland  (the  last 
named  being  considered  a  District  of  Columbia  institution 
since  most  of  its  students  are  graduates  of  Washington  High 
Schools).  The  Washington  Professional  Foot  Ball  Club, 
member  of  the  American  Professional  Foot  B'all  Association, 
plays  every  Sunday  during  the  season  at  American  League  Park. 
There  are  also  various   semi-professional  teams. 

Soccer  Football  is  represented  by  the  teams  of  the  National 
Capital  Soccer  Association — namely,  the  Washington  Soccer 
Club,  the  Rangers,  the  Hibernians  and  the  Harlems.  These 
clubs  plays  double-headers  on  Sunday  afternoons  on  the  Monu- 
ment Lot  Field,  near  Washington  Monument.  There  is  no 
admission  fee  because  this  is  a  Government  reservation.  Soc- 
cer is  a  new  game  in  the  District,  and  is  coming  into  promi- 
nence. The  men  who  play  it  are  a  cosmopolitan  set,  including 
men  from  the  Legations. 

Golf.  There  are  golf  courses  at  the  Columbia  Country 
Club,  Chevy  Chase,  Md. ;  the  Chevy  Chase  Club;  the  Bannock- 
burn  Golf  Club,  Conduit  Road,  near  Glen  Echo,  Md. ;  Kirkside 
Golf  Club,  Chevy  Lhase,  Md. ;  the  Town  and  Country  Club, 
Georgia  Ave.  and  Crittenden  St.;  the  Washington  Golf  and 
Country  Club,  Jewell  Station,  Va.  (on  Washington-Great  Falls 
Electric  Ry.)  ;  the  Congressional  Golf  Club;  the  Indian  Spring 
Golf  Club,  near  Silver  Spring,  Md. ;  and  the  Potomac  Golf 
Club  (playing  on  the  Municipal  course  in  East  Potomac  Park). 
Except  Chevy  Chase  Club,  these  clubs  extend  usual  club 
courtesies.        All    Caddies   are  negroes. 

There  are  two  nine-hole  Municipal  courses,  one  in  Easi 
Potomac  Park,  the  other  in  West  Potomac  Park,  open  prac- 
tically eleven  months  in  the  year.  Fee  25  cents.  Clubs  can  be 
rented  at  these  Municipal  courses,  and  lessons  can  be  obtained 
from  the  professionals  in  charge.  Reached  by  electric  line, 
and  public  autos,  also  by  packet  boat  from  foot  of  7th  St.,  S.  W. 

Polo.  This  game  is  fostered  by  the  War  Department, 
and  Army  tournaments  are  held  spring  and  fall. 

Swimming.  There  is  a  Tidal  Basin  Bathing  Beach,  a 
public  beach  in  the  Basin  in  Potomac  Park.  W.  of  Washington 
Monument;  a  small  fee  is  charged.  The  bathing  houses  (open 
8  A.  M.  to  sunset,  June  to  Oct.)  are  well  equipped,_  and  suits 
and  lockers  can  be  rented.  The  influence  of  the  tide  is  felt 
six  miles  above  Washington,  but  the  water  is  not  salt.  There 
are  also  Municipal  pools  (June  to  Oct.,  6  A.  M.  to  sunset) 
at  17th  and  B  Sts.,  N.  W. ;  no  charge.  At  all  of  these  bathing 
places  there  are  special  hours  for  women,  and  separate  days 
for  negroes. 


CLUBS  29 

Indoor  Swimming.  The  Central  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  1736  G  St., 
has  a  public  pool;  fee,  25  cents.  There  are  bathing  pools  at 
the  Catholic  University  and  the  Central  High  School  (p.  431) 
where  oontests  are  held  during  winter.  The  pool  at  the 
Central  High  School  is  open  to  the  public  during  July  and 
Aug.  under  the  Community  Centre  Organization,  an  institu- 
tion of  long  standing  in  the  District,  under  which  the  public 
has  the  use  of  the  High   Schools  for  entertainments. 

Tennis.  The  Washington  City  Tennis  Association  in- 
cludes the  Dumbarton,  Chevy  Chase  and  Columbia  Clubs. 
Matches  are  played  on  the  courts  of  the  Dumbarton  Club 
(Wisconsin  Ave.  and  R  St.)  every  Saturday  from  May  through 
Sept.  The  Suburban  Tennis  League  is  organized  annually, 
comprising  from  eight  to  ten  teams.  Matches  take  place 
every  Saturday  all  over  the  District,  and  are  open  to  the  public. 
The  Departmental  Tennis  League,  composed  of  from  eight 
j  to  ten  teams  recruited  in  the  Government  Bureaus,  play  weekly 
■  matches.     For  dates  and  location  see  daily  papers. 

There  are  some  40  Municipal  Courts  in  Potomac  Park, 
for  the  use  of  which  permits  must  be  obtained  from  the 
i  Superintendent  of  Public  Buildings  and  Grounds  (a  Federal 
officer).     Courts  open  6  A.  M.  to  sunset;  no- charge. 

Trap  Shooting.  The  Washington  Gun  Club,  affiliated 
with  the  American  Trap  Shooting  Association,  has  its  range 
on  Benning  Road,  adjoining  the  Potomac  Electric  Power 
Station.  Shoots  are  held  every  Saturday  throughout  the  year, 
and  also  on  holidays.  The  club  promotes  many  inter-city 
matches.  Many  prominent  men  of  Washington  are  members, 
and  the  club's   slogan  is  ''Visitors  Welcome." 

Yachting.  The  two  chief  clubs  are  the  Capital  Yacht 
Club  (exclusive),  at  foot  of  9th  St.,  S.  W.,  and  the  Cor- 
inthian Yacht  Club,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Potomac,  S.  of 
Highway  Bridge.  Races  are  held  20  mi.  below  ^Washington, 
where  the  Potomac,  which  is  only  a  mile  wide  at  Washington, 
broadens  out  to  nearly  five  miles. 

VIII.     Clubs 

Clubs  play  a  prominent  part  in  the  social  life  of 
Washington;  yet  while  the  number  of  important  clubs  is  un- 
usually -large,  in  proportion  to  population,  organizations  of  a 
distinctly  political  nature  are  conspicuously  absent.  The  chief 
clubs,  to  which,  of  course,  strangers  may  obtain  access  only 
(through  introduction  by  a  member,  are  given  in  the  follow- 
ing list. 


3o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Metropolitan  Club  (PI.  Ill— E3),  N.  W.  cor.  17th  and 
H  Sts.  (557  res.  members ;  784  non-res.;  22  diplomatic;  38 
hon.)  ;  is,  and  always  has  ibeen,  the  moist  prominent  social 
club  in  Washington.  Racquet  Club  (Pi.  Ill — D3),  16th  St., 
betw.  L  and  M  Sts.  (600  res.  members;  700  non-res.);  a 
modern  athletic  club  on  the  lines  of  the  New  York  and  Boston 
Racquet  Clubs,  composed  of  the  younger  men  of  Washington, 
and  socially  quite  important.  A  special  feature  is  a  large  num- 
ber of  rooms  where  members  may  put  up  their  friends.  Cosmos 
Club  (PI.  II— D4),  S.  E.  cor.  H  St.  and  Madison  Place,  a  club 
of  world-wide  renown  with  membership  consisting  largely  of 
men  of  professional  distinction  in  science,  art  or  letters:  (See 
p.  188.)  University  Club  (PI.  II— D3),  N.  W.  cor.  of  15th 
and  I  Sts. :  Membership  limited  to  college  graduates ;  has  a 
women's  Annex  with  dining  room  for  wives  of  members.     A 


eekly 


very  active  club,  giving  frequent  dinners,  dances  and  w 
lectures.  The  local  Harvard,  Princeton,  Yale,  etc.,  Alumni 
Associations,  having  no  club  rooms,  hold  their  reunions 
here  (p.  220).  City  Club  (PI.  Ill— E3),  N.  W.  cor.  Connecti- 
cut Ave.  and  I  St.:  Membership  includes  a  majority  of  the 
prominent  Washington  business  men.  National  Press  Club 
(PI.  Ill — E3),  15th  and  G  Sts.:  Membership  limited  to  men; 
but  there  are  women's  evenings,  and  there  is  a  roof  garden 
where  women  may  dine  on  these  evenings.  Gridiron  Club. 
This  club  has  no  club  house,  hut  gives  at  the  New  Willard 
(PI.  I — A2),  the  most  famous  club  dinners  given  in  the 
United  States,  (see  p.  iio).  Two  distinguishing  rules  which 
affect  the  character  oif  these  dinners  are:  1.  "Reporters  are 
never  present" ;  2.  "Ladies  are  always  constructively  pres- 
ent"— thus  insuring  freedom  of  speech  and  refinement.  The 
membership  is  limited  exclusively  to  newspaper  correspond- 
ents. Arts  Club  of  Washington  (PI.  Ill — E2),  2017  I  St.:  A 
small  club  of  men  affiliated  with  one  or  another  of  the  arts. 
Army  and  Navy  Club  (PI,  III — E3),  N.  E.  cor.  Connecticut 
Ave.  and  I  St. :  An  old  established  club  for  officers  of 
the  two  services ;  strong  social  prestige.  Riding  and  Hunt 
Club,  226.  and  P  Sts. ;  has  a  large  tanbark  ring  where  mem- 
bers ride  in  winter.  Congressional  Club  (Pl.ilH — D3 — 'No.  29), 
New  Hampshire  Ave.  and  U  St. :  The  leading  women's  club 
of  Washington ;  membership  limited  to  wives  of  Senators, 
Congressmen  and  Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  (see  p.  207). 
Women's  City  Club  (PI.  Ill — E3),  22  Jackson  Place: 
Has  same  general  interests  as  the  Men's  City  Club. 
American  Association  of  University  Women,  No.  1634 
I      St.;      Soaial     center     "for     the     college     and     university 


SHOPS    AND     STORES  31 

women  of  America  ('see  p.  233).  The  Alibi  Club,  at  1806 
I  St.  A  small  club  (40  members),  formed  by  a  limited  group 
of  socially  prominent  Washingtonians,  chiefly  college  men, 
because  "poker  was  not  permitted  at  the  University  Club."  It 
is  mainly  a  dining  club,  and  has  an  interesting  collection  of 
poems  and  other  contributions  written  by  visitors.  Three 
organizations  which  have  rapidly  come  to  the  front  in  civic 
matters  are :  The  Rotary  Club,  the  Kiwanis  Club  and  the  Lions 
Club,  all  three  of  which  are  composed  of  men  who  get  together 
for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  community  in  which  they  live. 
The  numerous  country  clubs  of  Washington  and  vicinity 
include : 

Chevy     Chase     Club     situated     at     Ohevy     Chase,     Md. 
(1916    members,  both   sexes)  :    One   of    the   oldest   and   most 
exclusive  country  clubs.     Golf  course  over-crowded  for  com- 
fort.     Columbia    Country    Club,    also   at    Chevy    Chase,    Md., 
(both   sexes)  :      Reputed   to   have    a   better   golf    course   than 
1  the  Chevy  Chase  Club.     Congressional  Country  Club :     This 
I  recently  organized  cluib  of  which  Herbert  Hoover  is  a  prom- 
inent  officer,    has    just   acquired    [1922]    a    406-acre    tract    in 
I  Maryland,  and  three  golf  courses,  with  a  total  of  45  holes,  are 
in   course  of   construction.     The  membership   while  including 
many  Congressmen  is  not  confined  to  them.     Pierce-Mill  Club, 
Great  Falls,  Md  :     Small  membership.     Montgomery  County 
■  Club,  furthest  out  of  any  of  the  clubs;  dinners,  dances,  trap 
I  shooting  and   tennis ;   but  no  golf.     Dumbarton   Tennis  Club, 
Wisconsin  Ave.  and  R  Sts. :  Exclusively  for  tennis. 

See  also  under  "Sports,  Games,  etc."  (p.  26). 
IX.     Shops  and  Stores 

Art   Dealers.     *Veerhoff's   Galleries,    1320    F    St.;    *S.    J.    V enable, 

1225    G   St.;    *Moore   Galleries,   729   17th   St.;   Fred   C.   Hayes  Art   Co., 

123 1    G    St.;    Charles  B.   Jarvis,    1309    G    St.;    The   Antique   Shop,    815 

17th    St.;    Niepold    &    Sons,    913    F    St.;    7.    O.    Akers,    1142    7th    St.; 

1    Miss  Jane  Bartlett,   1337  Connecticut  Ave. 

Book  Stores.  *Brentano's,  S.  W.  cor.  F  and  12th  Sts,;  Pearlman's 
Book  Shop,  931  G  St.;  Lozvdermilk  &  Co.,  1424  F  St.  (rare  books, 
prints,  etc.);  Rare  Book  Shop,  813  14th  St.;  *William  Ballantyne  & 
Sons,  1409  F  St.;  C.  C.  Pursell,  807  G  St. 

Boots  and  Shoes.  Arthur  Burt  Co.,  1343  F  St.;  Edmonston  & 
Co.,  1334  F  St.;  Berberich,  813  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Rich,  N.  W.  cor. 
10th  and  F  Sts.;  Family  Shoe  Store,  310-12  7th  St.;  N.  Hess  Sons, 
Inc.,  931    Pennsylvania  Ave.;    Wm.   Hahn    &   Co.,   City   Club,   G    St. 

Many  other  well-known  makes  of  shoes,  such  as  the  Cantilever, 
1  Emerson,  Hanover,  Regal  and  Douglas  have  local  branches  on  Penn- 
J  sylvania  Ave.,  chiefly  between  9th  and   10th  Sts. 


32  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Children's  Clothing.  Kafka,  N.  E.  cor.  F  and  ioth  Sts.;  Juvenile 
Shop,   1105  Connecticut  Ave. 

China  and  Glass.  Dulin  &  Martin  Co.,  1215  F  St.;  Sherratfs 
China  Art  Shore,  608  13th  St.;  Tuck  Cheong  &  Co.,  342  Pennsylvania 
Ave.     See  also  "Oriental  Goods." 

Cigars  and  Tobacco.  G.  G.  Cornzvell  &  Son,  1415  H  St.;  Henry 
T.  Offtcrdinger,  508  9th  St.;  W.  H.  Warner,  308  9th  St.:  United  Cigar 
Stores  Co.,  626  14th  St.;  branches:  1704  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  S.  E.  cor. 
7th  and  F  Sts.;  1349  E  St.;  707  15th  St.;  9th  and  E  Sts.;  1941  14th 
St.;   500  9th  St. 

Clothiers  and  Haberdashers.  *Sidney  West,  Colorado  Building, 
N.  E.  cor.  G  and  14th  Sts.;  *Stinetnetz  &  Son  Co.,  cor.  F  and  12th 
Sts.;  *D.  J.  Kaufman,  1005-7  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Saks  &  Co.,  N.  W. 
cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  7th  St.;  The  Young  Men's  Shop,  13 19-21 
F  St.;  Raleigh  Haberdasher,  1109-n  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Philip  T.  Hall, 
141 1  F  St.;  The  Mode,  S.  E.  cor.  nth  and  F  Sts.;  Parker,  Bridge*  & 
Co.,  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  9th  St.;  The  Willard  Shop,  511  14th  St.; 
Meyer's  Shops,    133 1    F  St. 

Confectioners  and  Caterers.  *Demonet,  Connecticut  Ave.  and  M 
St.;     *Rauscher's,     1034     Connecticut    Ave.;'    Brownley's,     1205     G    St.; 

1302  F  St.;  Velati,  609  14th  St.;  Huyler's,  1119  F  St.,  617  15th  St.; 
John  Kolb,  1508  14th  St.;  Stohlman,  1254  Wisconsin  Ave.;  Louis  Boeck- 
styn's,  2016  14th  St.;  S.  A.  Reeves,  1209  F  St.;  Hubert,  Inc.,  1803 
Connecticut  Ave.;  Cinderella  Candy  Shop,  617  14th  St.;  Nunnally's, 
1223  F  St.;  Velati,  620  9th  St.;  Louise  Candy  Shoppe,  1616  H  St., 
1 7 14  H  St.;  Martha   Washington  Candies,    12th   St.  betw.  E  and  F  Sts. 

Drug  Stores.  Affleck,  15th  and  F  Sts.;  F.  H.  Ridgway,  Connecticut 
and  Florida  Aves.;  People's  Drug  Store.  N.  W.  cor.  7th  and  Kj  Sts., 
S.  W.  cor.  7th  and  E  Sts..  cor.  7th  and  M  Sts..  703  15th  St..  1107 
G  St.,  and  numerous  other  branches;  Dupont  Pharmacy,  5  Dupont 
Circle;  Dorman  Homeopathic  Pharmacy,  1007  H  St.;  King's,  S.  E.  cor. 
14th  and  Massachusetts  Ave.;  Christiana,  N.  W.  cor.  9th  and  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.;  Tschiffely  Bros.,  1203  Connecticut  Ave.;  Liggett' s,  1006  F 
St.,  1345  F  St.,  904"  F'  St.,  1301  F  St.,  418  7th  St.,  701  15th  St., 
\2Z7  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  1717  Pennsylvania  Ave.:  O'Donnell's,  604  9th 
St.,  301   Pennsylvania  Ave.,  n  18   F  St.,   401   E.   Capitol   St. 

Embroideries  and  Laces.  The  Lace  Shop,  mi  F  St.;  The  Em- 
broidery Shop,  827  nth  St.;  French  Lace  Shop,  1208  G  St.;  F.  A. 
Zraick,    11 05    Connecticut  Ave.;   Alice  Maynard,    1303   F  St. 

Florists.  Gude  Bros.  Co.,  1214  F  St.;  Blackistone,  N.  W.  cor. 
14th  and  H  Sts.;  Marche  &  Co.,  S.  E.  cor.  14th  and  H  Sts.;  George 
C.  Shaffer,  900  14th  St.;  /.  H.  Small  &  Sons,  Inc.,  S.  E.  cor.  15th 
and  H  Sts.;  Louise  Flower  Shop,  Connecticut  Ave.  and  Ni  St. 

Hair  Dressers.  * Cummins,  1756  M  St.;  Borden's,  1115  G  St.; 
Katie  E.  Dunn,  517  nth  St.;  Hepner,  525  13th  St.;  Rochon,  916  14th 
St.;  George  &  Emile,  920  17th  St.;  Emile,  121 3  Connecticut  Ave.; 
Boston  Beauty  Shop,    1006   F   St.;   Desire  Bannery,   2412^    18th   St. 

Ladies'  Tailors.  Pluym's,  1220  Connecticut  Ave.;  Frank  Faust, 
1020   17th  St.;  M.  Pasternak,   1232    14th  St.;  Paul  Leibel,  1215   G  St. 

Milliners.  Howard)  &  Deane,  1309  F  St.;  /.  M.  Ash,  1217  Con- 
necticut Ave.;   /.   L.  Blout,   710   7th   St.;   Grimes,   1404  H   St.;    Young's, 

1303  Connecticut  Ave.;  Zimmerman,  1307  Connecticut  Ave.;  Fox-Leary, 
814  17th   St.;  Maiso-n  Libby.    13th  and  G   Sts. 

Opticians.  Franklin  &  Co.,  1329  F  St.;  Frank  H.  Edmonds,  809 
15th   St. 


CHURCHES,     RELIGIOUS     SERVICES  33 

Oriental  Goods.  The  Pagoda,  1625  H  St.;  Hekimian  Nejib,  15 12 
II  St.  (Oriental  rugs);  Suzuki  &  Co.,  614  14th  St.;  Cuang  Wall  Yuen, 
318  Pennsylvania  Ave. 

Photographers.  *Clinedinst  Studio,  14th  and  H  Sts. ;  * Harris  & 
Ewing,i3ii  F  St.;  Brooks  Studio,  1329  F  St.;  J.  Dy  Boyce,  1325  F 
St.;  Rice  Studio,  1203  F  St.;  Edmonston's  Studio,  1407  J  St.;  Bach- 
racJi's  Studio,  1327  F  St.;  Towle's  Studio,  1520  Connecticut  Ave.: 
G.  V.  Buck,  1 1 13  F  St.;  Eastland  Studio,  1107  F  St.;  Underwood,  1230 
Connecticut  Ave. 

Silversmiths  and  Jewelers.  *  Berry  &  Whitnnre  Co.,  N.  W.  cor. 
nth  and  F  Sts.;  *Galt  &  Bro.,  1107  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Salvatore  Desio, 
926  F  St.;  R.  Harris  &  Co.,  N.  W.  cor.  7th  and  D  Sts.;  Harris  & 
Shafer  Co.,  1308  F  St.;  Whitemore,  Lynn  &  Alden  Co.,  122$  F  St.; 
Lucios  Jezuelry  Co.,   1307  F  St.;  Shaw  &  Brown  Co.,   n  14  F  St. 

Souvenirs,  Post  Cards,  etc.  "National  Remembrance  Shop,  503 
14th  St.;  John  F.  Jarvis,  2d  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  A.  C.  Bossel- 
man,  473   Pennsylvania  Ave. 

t  Sporting  and  Athletic  Goods.  A.  G.  Spalding,  613  14th  St.;  D.  N. 
Waljord,  909  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Howard  A.  French  Co.,  424  9th  St.; 
The  Spcrt  Market,  Inc.,  905  F  St.,   1410  New  York  Ave. 

Stationers.  Brentano's,  S.  W.  cor,  12th  and  F  Sts.;  Berry  & 
Whitmore,  N.  W.  cor  nth  and  F  Sts.;  Gait  &  Bro.,  1107  Pennsylvania 
Ave.;  R.  P.  Andrews  Paper  Co.,  727-31  13th  St.;  Baum  Paper  and 
Stationery  Co.,  905  7th  St.  (crepe  paper,  etc.);  Stocket-Fiske  Co.,  919 
E   St.;    Brewood,    12th  between   F  and   G    Sts.;    Copenhaver,    1521    Con- 

t  necticut  Ave.;  Morrison  Paper  Co.,  1009  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Brown, 
1 30 1    Connecticut  Ave. 

Trunks  and  Leather  Goods.  *Becker,  1324  F  St.;  H.  W .  Topham, 
1212  G  St.;  G.  A.  Kneessi,  1231  G  St.;  K.  Kneessi's  Sons,  425  7th  St.. 
Lute,    1325    G    St. 

Umbrellas  and  Walking  Sticks.  Mrs.  M.  A.  Griswould,  411  nth 
St.;  French  Umbrella  Shop,  718  13th  St.  See  also  "Clothiers  and 
Haberdashers." 

Women's  Outfitters.  *Stinemetz  &  Son  Co.,  1201  F  St.;  *  Julius 
Garfinkle  &  Co.,  S.  E.  cor.  F  and  13th  Sts.;  /.  M.  Giddimgs  &  Co., 
1510  H  St.;  Philipsborn,  608-14  nth  St.;  Kafka.  N.  E.  cor.  F  aad 
'  10th  Sts.;  Louvre,  1115  F  St.,  15 10  H  St.;  Rizik  Br>os.,  12 13  F  St.; 
Leverton's,  n 06  G  St.;  M.  Brooks  &  Co.,  n 07-9  G  St.;  Woodzvard 
&  Lothrop,  nth  and  F  Sts.;  Erlebacher's,  121  o  F  St.;  Frank  R.  Jelleff, 
j 216  F  St.;  Palais  Royal,    nth  and  G  Sts. 

X.     Churches,    Religious    Services 

For  the  convenience  of  visitors  wishing  to  attend  service 
at  churches  of  their  own  denomination,  the  following  selective 
list  of  the  more  important  places  of  worship  is  given,  the 
denominations  being  classed  alphabetically. 

There  are  in  all  about  358  churches  in  the  District  of 
Columbia,  inclusive  of  Chapels  and  Missions.  Of  these  115 
are  for  negroes.  The  principal  denominations  are  represented 
as  follows   in  order  of  their  numerical  importance : 

A.  White:  Protestant  Episcopal,  43;  Methodist  Episco- 
pal, 35;  Presbyterian,  27;  Baptist,  26;  Roman  Catholic,  25; 
Lutheran,  17;  Methodist  Protestant,  8:  Methodist  Episcopal 


34  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

South,  7;  Disciples  of  Christ,  7;  Hebrezv,  4;  Society  of 
Friends,  3 ;  Congregational,  3 ;  Reformed,  Swedenborgian, 
Unitarian  and  Universalist,  1  each.  B.  Colored :  Baptist, 
66;  Methodist  Episcopal,  34;  Protestant  Episcopal,  7;  Fr^j- 
byterian,  3 ;  Congregational,  3 ;  Roman  Catholic,  2. 

The  usual  hours  at  which  services  are  held  are  11  A.  M. 
and  8  P.  M.  In  the  following  selective  list  the  hours  of 
service  are  given  only  in  the  cases  where  they  are  at  variance 
with  the  usual  practice.  Announcement  of  services  at  the 
leading  churches,  together  with  subjects  of  the  sermons,  and 
special  musical  programs,  will  be  found  in  the  Saturday 
papers,  notably  in  the  Evening  Star. 

Baptist:  First  Baptist  (p.  201),  16th  and  O  Sts. ;  Rev. 
Henry  Allen  Tupper,  D.  D.,  Minister. — Immanuel  Baptist 
1 6th  St.  and  Columbia  Road;  Rev.  G.  G.  Johnson, 
D.  D.,  Pastor. — Calve  ray  Baptist,  8th  and  H  Sts. ; 
Rev.  W.  S.  Abernethy,  D.D.,  Pastor.— Temple  Baptist, 
10th  and  N  Sts. — West  Washington  Baptist,  31st  and  N  Sts. 
(Georgetown)  ;  services  11  A.  M.  and  7.30  P.  M. — Metro1- 
politan  Baptist,  6th  and  A  Sts.  N.  E. ;  services  11  A.  M.  and 
7.45  P.  M.— Maryland  Avenue,  14th  St.  and  Maryland  Ave. 
N.  E.— Fifth  Baptist,  E  St.  near  7th  St.  N.  W. ;  services 
11  A.  <M.  and  7.45  P.  M. — Kendall  Baptist,  9th  St.  near  B  St. 
S.  W. ;  services  11  A.  M.  and  7.30  P.  M. 

Christian:  Vermont  Avenue  Christian  Church  (p.  221), 
Vermont  Ave.  north  of  N  St.;  Rev.  Earle  Wifley,  D.  D., 
Pastor. 

Christian  Scientists  :  First  Church  of  Christ,  Scien- 
tist, Columbia  Road  and  Euclid  St. — Second  Church  of  Christ, 
Scientist,  8th  and  F  Sts.  N.  E. 

Congregational  :  First,  10th  and  G  Sts.  N.  W. ;  Rev. 
Jason  Noble  Pierce,  Minister. — Mt.  Pleasant  Congrega- 
tional, Columbia  Road  near  14th  St. ;  Rev.  Walton  Amos 
Morgan,  Minister. 

Jewish  :  Washington  Hebrew  Congregation,  8th  St., 
between  H  and  I  Sts. ;  services  Friday  8  P.  M.,  Saturday 
10  A.  M. — Adas  Israel,  orthodox ;  services  Friday  6  P.  M., 
Saturday  8  A.  M. 

Lutheran:  Luther  Place  Memorial  (p.  221),  14th  and  N 
Sts.  N.  W. ;  Rev.  G.  M.  Difrenderfer,  Pastor. — Epiphany 
(p.  207),  16th  and  U  Sts.;  Rev.  Charles  F.  Steck,  D.  D.,  Pas- 
tor.— St.  Paul,  cor.  nth  and  H  Sts.,  N.  W., — Atonement. 
North  Capitol  St.  and  Rhode  Island  Ave. — Keller  Memorial, 


CHURCHES,    RELIGIOUS    SERVICES  35 

Maryland  Ave.  and  9th   St.   N.   E. — Reformation,  2d  and   B 
Sts.  S.  E. 

Methodist  Episcopal:  Metropolitan  (p.  134),  John  Mar- 
shall Place  and  C  St. ;  Rev.  Harry  Dawson  Mitchell,  D.  D., 
Minister. — Wesley  Chapel,  cor.  F  and  5th  Sts. — Foundry 
(p.  202),  16th  and  Uhurch  Sts.;  Rev.  Herbert  F.  Ran- 
dolph, D.D.,  Minister. — Hamline,  9th  and  P  Sts. ;  Rev.  Hamil- 
ton P.  Fox,  Pastor. — Calvary,  Columbia  Road,  between 
14th  and  15th  Sts. ;  Rev.  James  Shera  Montgomery, 
Minister. — Trinity  M.  E.  (formerly  Ebenezer;  see  p.  411), 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  5th  St.  S.  E. ;  services  11  A.  M.  and 
7.30  P.M. 

Presbyterian:     First  Presbyterian  Church  (p.  136),  John 

1  Marshall   Place,  between   C  and  D    Sts.;    Rev.  John   Brittan 

Clark,  D.  D.,  Pastor.— New  York  Avenue  P.  C.   (p.  231),  at 

cor.   of   New    York    Ave.,    13th   and    H    Sts. — Church   of    the 

Covenant    Op.   223),  at   S.    E.   cor.   of    Connecticut  Ave.,    18th 

and  N    Sts.;    Rev.    Charles   Wood,   Minister. — Gunton-Temple 

.Memorial,      14th      and      R      Sts.;       Rev.      Bernard      Bras- 

kamp,      Pastor. — Gurle.y     Memorial,      14th      St.      and      Meri- 

(    d'ian     Place. — Northminster,     nth     St.     and     Rhode     Island 

(    Ave.;     services     n     A.     M.     and    7.45     P.     M. — Washington 

Heights,  Columbia  and  Kalorama  Roads ;  Rev.  John  C.  Pal- 

I    mer,   D.   D.,   Minister;   services   n   A.   M.  and  7.45   P.   M.— 

j    Fourth  Church,  13th  and  Fairmount  Sts. — West  Street  Church, 

.    P  St.  near  35th  St.  (Georgetown)   (p.  464). 

Protestant  Episcopal:  The  Cathedral  of  Sts.  Peter  and 
fPaul,  Bethlehem  Chapel  (p.  455),  Mt.  St.  Alban,  D.  C. ;  serv- 
1  ices  7.30,  10  and  n  A.  M.  and  4  P.  M. — St.  John's 
Church  (p.  195),  1 6th  and  H  Sts.;  Church  of  the  Epiphany 
(p.  150),  G  St.  near  14th  St.;  Rev.  James  E.  Freeman, 
D.D.,  Rector;  services  8  and  n  A.  M.  and  4  and 
8  P.  M. — Church  of  the  Ascension  (p.  227),  Massa- 
chusetts Ave.  and  12th  St.;  services  8  and  n  A.  M. 
and  5  and  8  P.  M.— St.  Thomas  (p.  234),  cor.  of 
1 8th  and  Church  Sts.;  services  8,  10.15  and  II 
A.  M. — St.  Paul's,  23d  St.  near  Washington  Circle;  serv- 
ices 7.30,  10  and  n  A.  M.  and  8  P.  M. — Church  of 
the  Incarnation,  cor.  of  N  and  12th  Sts. ;  services  7.30 
and  n  A.  M.  and  5  P.  M. — St.  Margaret's,  Connecticut  Ave. 
and  Bancroft  Place;  services  7.30  and  n  A.  M.  and  8  P.  M. — 
t  Chris1:  Church  (p.  406),  G  St.,  between  6th  and  7th  Sts.  S.  E. — 
St.  James,  8th  St.  near  Massachusetts  Ave.  N.  E. ;  services 
7.30  and  n  A.  M.  and  3.30  and  7.45  P.  M. — All  Souls'  Memo- 


36  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

rial,  Connecticut  and  Cathedral  Aves. — Church  of  the  Advent, 
cor.  of  2d  and  U  Sts. ;  services  7.30  and  11  A.  M.  and  8  P.  M. 
— St.  John's,  Georgetown  Pauiish  (p.  472),  3240  O  St.;  services 
7.30  and  11  A.  M.  and  7.30  P.  M. — Christ  Church,  Georgetown 
Parish  (p.  472),  cor.  of  31st  and  O  Sts.;  services  7.30  and  11 
A.  M.  and  7.30  P.  M.—St.  Paul's,  Rock  Creek  Parish  (p.  436), 
in  Rock  Creek  Cemetery;  services  11  A.  M. 

Reformed:  Grace  Reformed  Church  (p.  231),  15th  and 
O  Sts. ;  Rev.  Henry  H.  Ranck,  Pastor. 

Roman  Catholic:  St  Patrick's  (p.  147),  10th  St.,  be- 
tween F  and  G  Sts.;  Sunday  Masses  7,  8,  9,  10  and  11  A.  ku, 
Vespers  4  P.  M. — St.  Aloysius  (p.  362),  North  Capitol  and  I 
Sts.;  Sunday  Masses  6,  7,  8  and  11  A.  M.,  Vespers  7.30  P.  M. 
— St.  Matthew's  (p.  234),  Rhode  Island'  Ave.  near  Connecti- 
cut Ave.;  Sunday  Masses  7,  9,  10  and  11  A.  M.,  Vespers  4 
P.  M—  St.  Paul's,  15th  and  V  Sts. ;  Sunday  Masses  6,  7,  8,  9, 
10  and  11  A.  M.,  Vespers  7.30  P.  M. — St.  Stephen's, 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  25th  St. ;  Sunday  Masses  6,  7.  9,  10 
and  11  A.  M.,  Vespers  4.30  P.  M—  St.  Dominic,  6th 
St.,  between  E  and  F  Sts.  S.  W. ;  Sunday  Masses  6,  7.30.  9, 

10  and  11  A.  M;.,  Vespers  7.30  P.  M.—St.  Joseph's  (p.  365), 
2d  and  C  Sts.  N.  E. ;  Sunday  Masses  7,  9  and  10.30  A.  M., 
Vespers  4  P.  M.—St.  Peter's  (p.  411),  2d  and  C  Sts.  S.  E.; 
Sunday  Masses  7,  -9  and  10.30  A.  M. — St.  Mary's  (German), 
5th  St.,  between  G  and  H  Sts.;  Sunday  Masses  7.30,  9.15 
and  10.30  A.  M.,  Vespers  4  P.  M.—Holy  Trinity,  36th  and  O 
Sts.  (Georgetown)  ;  Sunday  Masses  6,  7,  9,  10  and  11  A.  M„ 
Vespers  7.30  P.  M. — Church  of  the  Franciscan  Monastery, 
14th  and  Quincy  Sts.  N.  E. ;  Sunday  Masses  5.30,  6, 
7.30  and  9  A.  M. 

Society  of  Friends:  Friends  Meeting  House,  181 1  I  St.; 
services  11  A.  M. 

Swedenborgian  :  Church  of  the  New  Jerusalem  (p.  203), 
16th  and  Corcoran   Sts. ;   Rev.   Paul   Sperry,   Pastor ;    services 

11  A.  M. 

Unitarian:  All  Soulsf  Church  (p.  232),  cor.  14th  and 
L  Sts.;  Rev.  Ulysses  G.  B.  Pierce,  D.  D.,  Minister. 

Universalist  :  Church  of  Our  Father,  13th  and  L  Sts. 
N.  W. ;  Rev.  John  Van  Schaick,  Jr.,  D.  D.,  Pastor. 

The  principal  negro  congregations  are: 

Baptist:  Vermont  Avenue,  Vermont  Ave.,  betw.  Q  and  R  Sts. — 
Metropolitan,  R  St.,  betw.  12th  and  13th  Sts. — Nineteenth  Street, 
19th  St.,  cor.  I  St. — Florida  Avenue,  Florida  Ave.  near  7th  St. — Walker 


LIBRARIES    AND    READING    ROOMS  37 

Memorial,  13th  St.,  betw.  U  and  V  Sts.  Methodist  Episcopal:  Asbury, 
K  St.,  cor.  nth  St. — Metropolitan  A.  M.  E.,  M.  St.,  near  15th  St.— 
Mt.  Zion,  29th  St.,  betw.  Dumbarton  Ave.  and  O  St. — Ebenezer,  D  St., 
cor.  4th  St.  S.E.  Presbyterian:  Fifteenth  Street,  15th  St.,  betw.  I  and 
K  Sts.  Protestant  Episcopal:  St.  Luke's,  15th  St.,  cor.  Church  St. — 
St.  Mary's  Chapel,  23d  St.,  betw  G  and  H  Sts.  Calvary 
Chapel,  nth  St.,  cor.  G  St.,  N.E.  Roman  Catholic:  St.  Augustine's 
(p.  231),  15th  St.,  near  M  St. — St.  Cyprian,   13th  and  C  Sts.,   S.E. 

XI.     Libraries  and  Reading  Rooms 

Washington  contains  approximately  170  libraries ;  and 
owing  to  the  fact  that  these  include  the  libraries  of  the 
various  Departments  of  Government,  several  large  Univer- 
sities, the  Smithsonian  Institution,  and  other  scientific  socie- 
ties, it  results  that  the  library  facilities  of  Washington  are 
unrivaled  by  any  other  city  in  America.  The  following  list  is 
limited  to  the  libraries  which,  to  a  greater  or  less  degree,  are 
open  to  the  public. 

Library  of  Congress,  1st  and  B  Sts.  S.  E.  Open  daily,  excepting 
Christmas  and  the  4th  of  July.  Week  days  9  A.  M.  to  10  P.  M., 
Sundays  and  Holidays  2  to  10  P.  M.  Resources,  3,000,000  printed 
books  and  pamphlets,  and  nearly  2,000,000  other  items.  For  reference 
use  the  library  is  free  to  any  reader  over  sixteen  years-  of  age.  The 
classes   of   borrowers  are   designated    by   statute    (p.    369). 

Public  Library  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  Mount  Vernon  Square. 
Open  from  9  A.  M.  to  9  P.  M.  week  days,  including  Holidays  (except 
Christmas  and  the  4th  of  July).  Sundays,  2  to  9  P.  M.  Resources 
230,000  vols.  This  is  a  circulating  and  reference  library,  free  to  all 
persons  living  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  and  to  residents  of  Mary- 
land and   Virginia   employed   in   the   District    (p.    226). 

State   Department   Library,    in   the    State,   War   and   Navy   Building. 
Open   9    A.   M.   to   4   P.    M.    daily   except    Sundays    and    Holidays.      Re- 
sources,   70,000    vols.      Reference    library    for    use    of    State    Department 
and    Diplomatic    Corps.      All    others    must    obtain    permission    from    the 
f    Secretary,  Assistant  Secretaries  or  Chief  of  the   Bureau    (p.    126). 

Library  of  the  General  Staff  College,  in  General  Staff  College 
Building.  Resources,  150,000  vols,  and  pamphlets.  Open  to  the  public 
for  reference  only,  from  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and 
Holidays   (p.  351). 

Library  of  the  Surgeon  General's  Office,  7th  and  B  Sts.,  S.  W. 
Resources,  approximately  600,000  books  and  pamphlets.  Open  to  the 
public  for  reference,  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and 
Holidays.      Books   are  lent  to  the   medical    profession '(p.   250). 

Columbus  Memorial  Library,  Pan-American  Union,  17th  and  B  Sts., 
N.  W.  Resources,  45,000  vols.  Reference  library  open  free  to  the 
public,  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays. 
The   collection    is   entirely    Latin-American    (p.    162). 

Daughters  of  the  American,  Revolution  Memorial  Library,  17th  and 
D  Sts.,  S.  W.  Resources  10,000  vols.  Reference  library  open  to  the 
public,  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays. 
Specialty,   American   history    and    genealogy    (p.    155). 

Columbia  Historical  Society  Library,  Pacific  Building,  622  F  St., 
N.   W.      Resources,    700   vols,    and   3500    pamphlets.     Open    Wednesdays 


38  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

ii  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  from  November  to  May.  At  other  times  by 
special  appointment  with  the  Secretary.  Students  of  local  history 
are  welcome  to'  the  use  of  the  library   (p.    141). 

Riggs  Memorial  Library,  Georgetown  University,  37th  and  O  Sts. 
Resources,  165,000  vols.  The  use  of  the  main  part  of,  this  collection 
is  restricted  to  the  students  and  alumni  of  the   University!   (p.   469). 

The  Morgan  Colonial  Maryland  and  District  of  Columbia  Library, 
Georgetown  College  (resources,  4000  vols.),  is  open  for  reference  to  all 
investigators  of  Maryland,  Colonial  and  District  of  Columbia  history. 
Hours  8-1 1  to  2-5  P.  M.  daily1  (p.-  467). 

Library  of  the  Catholic  University  of  America,  Brookland.  Re- 
sources, 132,000  vols.  Open  to  the  public  for  reference  daily,  except 
Sundays,   9  A.  M.  to  5  P.  M.    (p.   416). 

Interstate  Commerce  Commission  Library,  18th  and  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  N.  W.  Resources,  16,000  vols,  and  20,000  pamphlets.  Open  to  the 
public  for  reference,  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and 
Holidays.      Specialty,   railroad   literature  and   law    (p.    216). 

Bureau  of  Railway  Economics  Library,  429  Homer  Building. 
Resources,  100,000  vols.  Open  free  for  reference  to  any  one  interested, 
week-days  from  9  A.  M.  to  5  P.  M.,  except  Saturdays,  when  it  closes 
at   1   P.  M. 

Department  of  Labor  Library  (U.  S.),  Labor  Building  17 12  G 
Street.  Resources,  80,000  vols.  Open  for  reference  to  all  (investigators 
of  social  problems,  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and 
Holidays.  Specialties,  Labor,  immigration,  naturalization,  statistics,  child 
welfare,  housing. 

Civil  Service  Commission  Library,  (U.  S.),  1724  F  St.,  N.  W. 
Resources,  about  4200  vols.  Reference  library  open  to  the  public  from 
9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.    (p.   153). 

Library  of  the  American  Federation  of  Labor,  cor.  Massachusetts 
Ave.  and  9th  St.  Resources,  6,000  vols.  Intended  primarily  for  the  use 
of  members,  but  students  and  investigators  are  welcome.  Open  9  A.  M. 
to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays    (p.   227). 

Public  Documents   Library,   North   Capitol    and   H    Sts.     Resources, 
approximately   280,000    vols.      Free    to    the   public    for    reference.      Open 
9    A.    M.    to    4.30    P.    M.    daily,    except    Sundays    and    Holidays.      This    -. 
library   was   founded  primarily   for   the   preservation    of   U.  -S.    Govern- 
ment publications   (p.   361). 

Department  of  Commerce  Library  (U.  S.),  19th  and  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  N.  W.  Resources,  110,000  vols,  and  pamphlets.  Reference 
library,  primarily  for  the  use  of  the  Bureau,  but  open  to  any  enquirers, 
9   A.   M.  to  4.30   P.   M.   daily,  except   Sundays   and   Holidays    (p.   216). 

Patent  Office  Library  (Department  of  the  Interior),  Patent  Office 
Building.  Law  and  Scientific  Libraries  (resources,  respectively  6000 
and  80,000  vols.), 1  both  open  freel  to  the  public  for  reference,  9  A.  M. 
to   4.30  P.    M.,   except   Sundays   and   Holidays    (p.    142). 

Library  of  the  Bureau  of  Education,  Pension  Office  Building,  5th 
and  F  Sts.,  N.  W.  Resourqes,  175,000  vols.  Open  for  reference, 
9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays,  to  all 
persons  interested  in  educational  matters   (p.    139). 

Library   of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology,   Smithsonian   Insti- 
tution.    Resources,  40,000  vols,  and  pamphlets.     Reference  library  for  the 
use  of  the  Bureau   staff,   but  privileges   are  extended  to   other  readers. 
Specialty,  anthropology,  particularly  works  pertaining  to  American  aborig-     f 
ines    (p.  288). 


LIBRARIES  AND  READING  ROOMS  39 

National  Museum  Library,  B  St.  and  the  Mall.  Resources,  155,000 
vols,  and  pamphlets.  Open  to  the  public  for  reference,  9  A.  M.  to 
4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  The  collection  is 
wholly  scientific    (p.   260). 

Library  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture,  12th  and  B  Sts.,  S.  W. 
Resources,  155,000  vols,  and  pamphlets.  Reference  library  open  free 
to  the  public  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays,  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M. 
The  collection  is  strong  in  agriculture  in  all  its  branches,  forestry, 
botany,  economic  entomology,  etc.   (p.  254). 

Bureau  of  Fisheries  Library  (U.  S.  Department  of  Commerce),  6th 
and  B  Sts.  S.  W.  Resources,  about  41,000  vols.  Open  free  to  the  public 
for  reference  use,  9  A.  M.  to  4. 30. P.  M.,i  except  Sundays  and  Holidays 
(P.  245). 

Library  of  the  Geological  Survey,  Interior  Department  Building. 
Resources,  150,000  vols,  and  pamphlets;  37,000  maps.  Open  to  the 
public  for  reference  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.,  except  Sundays  and 
holidays.     Collection  restricted  to;  geology  and  related  sciences   (p.   213). 

Library  of  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  (U.  S.  Department  of 
Commerce),  New  Jersey  Ave.  and  B  St.,  S.  E.  Resources,  25,000  vols. 
and  pamphlets;  35,000  maps.  Reference  library  for  the  use  of  the 
Bureau,  but  free  to  any  responsible  person  properly  vouched  for  (p.  405). 

Library  of  Bureau  of  Standards,  Pierce  Mill  Road,  W.  of  Connecti- 
cut Ave.  Resources,  about  22,000  vols.  Open  to  the  public  for  ref- 
erence, 9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  De- 
voted exclusively  to  physics,  technology,  chemistry  and  mathematics, 
(p.  44O. 

Library  of  the  Naval  Observatory,  Massachusetts  Ave.  and  W  St., 
N.  W.  Resources,  about  36,000  vols.  Open  to  the  public  for  reference, 
9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  This 
library  is  supposed  to  contain  the  best  collection  of  astronomical  litera- 
ture in  the  western  hemisphere   (p.   442). 

Weather  Bureau  Library,  24th  and  M  Sts.,  N.  W.  Resources, 
52,000  vols,  and  pamphlets.  Open  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  daily,  except 
Sundays  and  holidays.  Reference  library  intended  primarily  for  the 
use  of  the  Bureau,  but  is  open  to  outsiders  engaged  in  scientific  in- 
vestigation (p.  219). 

Library  of  the  Volta  Bureau,  1601  35th  St.  N.  W.  Resources,  15,000 
vols.  Open  free  to  the  public,  8.30  to  12  A.  M.  and  1  to  5  P.  M. 
daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  During  June,  July  and  August  it 
closes  on  Saturdays  at  noon   (p.  475). 

Library  of  the  Carnegie  Endowment  for  International  Peace, 
Jackson  Place.  Resources,  about  17,000  vols.  Open  free  to  the  public 
every  day  from  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  except  Saturday,  when  it  closes 
at  1  P.  M.  Specializes  in  international  law  and  literature  of  peace  and 
war. 

Library  of  the  Supreme  Council  of  the  33d  Degree,  Scottish  Rite 
Temple,  16th  and  S  Sts.  Resources,  100,000  vols,  and  pamphlets.  Open 
9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  Free  for  reference  to  any  person  vouched  for 
by   a   member.      Specialty,   literature   of    Freemasonry    (p.    206). 

Masonic  Library  of  the  Grand  Lodge,  F.  A.  A.  M.,  Masonic  Temple, 
New  York  Ave.  and  13th  St.  N.  W.  Resources  about  3500  vols.  A 
circulating  library  of  general  fiction  and  Masonic  reference  works.  Free 
to  any  one  on  recommendation  by  a  Mason.  Hours  10  A.  M.  to 
8  P.  M.,  Sundays  and  Holidays  excepted    (p.   231). 

Mount  Saint  Sepulchre  (Franciscan  Monastery)  Library,  Brookland. 
Resources,  about  12,000  vols.  Open  to  the  public  for  reference 
throughout  the  day  and  evening   (p.  423). 


4o  RIDER-S    WASHINGTON 

Christian    Science    Library,    Colorado    Building,    cor.     14th  and    G 

Sts.,   N.    W.      Statistics  not  at   present    [1922]    available.      Open  free  to 

the  public  Sundays,   2.30  to  5.30   P.  M.,   week   days,    10  A.   M.  to  9.30 
P.   M.,   except  Wednesdays,   when  it  closed  at   7    P.   M. 

Carroll  Institute  Library,  91 2-920  10th  St.,  N.  W.  Resources,  5000 
vols.  A  general  library  and  reading-room  open  free,  9  A.  M.  to  10 
P.    M.   daily   except   Sundays   and    Holidays. 

Peabody  Library  Association  of  Georgetown,  3233  O  St.,  N.  W. 
Resources,  9000  vols.  Free  for  reference  to  the  public,  6  to  9  P.  M. 
daily,   except   Saturdays   and    Sundays. 

Library  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  B  and  10th  Sts.,  S.  W. 
Resources,  300,000  vols.  Scientific  and  technical  books,  and  explora- 
tions. Open  to  the  public  for  reference,  9  to  4.30  daily,  except  Sundays 
and  holidays. 

U.  S.  Soldiers'  Home  Library,  Rock  Creek  Church  Road  and  Upsher 
St.  Resources,  about  16,000  vols.  Open  to  the  public  for  reference,  7.30 
A.  M.  to  8.30  P.  M.   (p.  432). 

XII.     Miscellaneous   Services  for  the  Traveller  • 

a.     Foreign  Embassies  and  Legations 

Argentina — Embassy,  1806  Corcoran  St.;  Mr.  Tomas  A. 
Le   Breton,    Ambassador    Extraordinary   and    Plenipotentiary. 

Belgium — Embassy,  1780  Massachusetts  Ave. ;  Baron  de 
C artier  de  Marchienne,  Ambassador  E.  and  P.  (absent)  ;  Mr. 
F.  de  Selys  de  Fans  on,  Charge  d'Affaires. 

Bolivia — Legation,  1707  Massachusetts  Ave. ;  Senor  Adolf  0 
Ballivian,  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary. 

Brazil — [Embassy,  1603  H  St. ;  Mr.  Augusto  Cochrane  de 
Alencar,  Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

Bulgaria — Legation,  1821  Jefferson  Place;  Mr.  Stephen 
Panaretoff,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Chile — Embassy,  1013-1015  Woodward  Building;  Senor 
Don  Beltran  Mathieu,  Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

China— Legation,  2001  19th  St.;  Mr.  Sao-Ke  Alfred  Sze, 
E.E.  and  MjP. 

Colombia — Legation,  2701  Connecticut  Ave.;  Senor  Don 
Carlos  Uribe,  Charge  d'Affaires. 

Costa  Rica — Legation,  2230  California  St.;  Senor  Dr.  Don 
Octavio  Bieche,  E.E.  and   ALP. 

Cuba — Legation,  2630  16th  St. ;  Dr.  Carlos  Manuel  de 
Cespedes,   E.E.    and    M.P. 

Czechoslovakia — Legation,  2040  S  St. ;  Dr.  Bedrich 
Stepdnek,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Denmark — Legation,  434  Southern  Building;  Mr.  Con- 
stantin  Brim,  E.E.  and  M.P. 


EMBASSIES  AND  LEGATIONS  41 

Dominican  Republic — Legation,  163 1  Massachusetts  Ave.; 
Licdo.    Emilia  C.  Joubert,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Ecuador — Legation,  1633  16th  St. ;  Seiior  Dr.  Don  Rafael 
H.  Elizalde,  E.E.  and   M.P. 

Finland — Legation,  1041-1044  Munsey  Building;  Mr. 
Axel  Leonard  Astrom,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

France — Embassy,  2460  16th  St. ;  M.  J.  J.  Jusserand, 
Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

Germany — Embassy,    1435   Massachusetts   Ave. 

Great  Britain — Embassy,  1301  19th  St. ;  Right  Hon.  Sir 
Auckland  Geddes,  Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

Greece — Legation,  1838  Connecticut  Ave. ;  Mr.  George 
Dracopoulos,  Charge  d'Affaires. 

Guatemala — Legation,  2800  Ontario  Road ;  Dr.  Julio 
Bianchi,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Haiti — Legation,  819  15th  St.,  Rooms  28-29;  Mr.  Albert 
Blanchet,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Honduras — Legation,  The  Northumberland ;  Seiior  Don  J. 
Antonio  Lopez  Gutierrez,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Italy — Embassy,  1400  New  Hampshire  Ave.;  Senator 
Vittorio  Rolandi  Ricci,  Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

Japan — Embassy,  1310  N.  St.;  Baron  Kijuro  Shidehara, 
Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

Luxemburg — Legation,  The  Powhatan ;  Baron  Raymond 
de    Waha,    Charge   d'Affaires. 

Mexico — Embassy,  1413  I  St. ;  Seiior  Don  Salvador  Diego- 
Fernandez,  Charge  d'Affaires. 

Netherlands — Legation,  1800  Connecticut  Ave. ;  Dr.  J.  C. 
A.  Everwijn,   E.E.   and    M.P. 

Nicaragua — Legation,  2347  Ashmead  Plr.ce ;  Seiior  Don 
Eniiliano    Chamorro,   E.E.   and    M.P. 

Norway — Legation,  The  Wyoming.  Colombia  Rd.  and 
California  St. ;  Mr.  H.  H.  Bryn,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Panama — Legation,  2400  16th  St. ;  Seiior  Don  J.  E.  Le- 
fevre,  Charge  d'Affaires. 

Persia — Legation,  15 13  16th  St.;  Mirza  Hussein  Khan 
Alai,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Peru — Legation,  2726  Connecticut  Ave. ;  Seiior  Don  Fed- 
erico  Alfonso  Pezet,  Ambassador  E.  and  P. 

Poland — Legation,  2640  16th  St. ;  Prince  Casimir  Lubo- 
mirski,  E.E.  and  M.P. 


42  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Portugal — Legation,  The  Wardman  Park;  Viscount 
d'Alte,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Rumania — Legation,  1607  23d  St. ;  Prince  A.  Bibesco, 
E,E.  and  M.P. 

Russia — Embassy,  1125  16th  St. 

Salvador — Legation,  The  Wardman  Park;  Senor  Don 
Salvador  Sol  M.,  E.E.  and  M.P.  (absent)  ;  Senor  Dr.  Don 
Octavio  Beeche,  Minister  of  Costa  Rica,  in  charge  of  Lega- 
tion. 

Serbs,  Croats  and  Slovenes — Legation,  1339  Connecticut 
Ave.;  Dr.   Slavko   Y.   Grouitch,  E.E.   and  M.P. 

Siam — .Legation,  2300  Kalorama  Road;  Phya  Prabha 
Karavongse,  E.E.   and  M.P. 

Spain — Embassy,  1673  Columbia  Road;  Senor  Don  Juan 
Riano  y  Gayangos,  Ambassador  E.   and  P. 

Sweden — Legation,  2249  R  St. ;  Capl.  Axel  F.  Wallenberg, 
E.E.  and  M.P. 

Switzerland — Legation,  2013  Hillyer  Pi.  and  1439  Massa- 
chusetts Ave.;  Mr.  Marc  Peter,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Uruguay — Legation,  American  National  Building,  13 17 
F.  St. ;  Dr.  Jacobo  Varela,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

Venezuela — Legation,  1406  Massachusetts  Ave. ;  Senor 
Don  Santos  A.  Dominici,  E.E.  and  M.P. 

b.     Banks  and  Trust  Companies 

Banks:  National  Metropolitan  Bank,  613  15th  St.;  Riggs  National 
Bank  of  Washington,  1503  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  American  National 
Bank,  1315  F  St.;  Columbia  National  Bank,  911  F  St.;  Commercial 
National  Bank,  700  14th  St.;  District  National  Bank,  1406  G  St.; 
Federal  National  Bank,  cor.  14th  and  G  Sts.;  National  Bank  of 
Washington,  cor.  7th  and  C  Sts.;  Washington  Southern  Bank,  1413 
G  St.;  Second  National  Bank,  507  7th  St.;  Franklin  National  Bank, 
cor.  10th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.;  Lincoln  National  Bank,  cor.  of  7th 
and  D  Sts.;  Du  Pont  National  Bank,   1341   Connecticut  Ave. 

Trust  Companies:  Munsey  Trust  Company,  cor.  15th  and  H.  Sts.; 
Washington  Loan  and  Trust  Company,  cor.  F  and  9th  Sts.;  American 
Security  and  Trust  Company,  N.  W.  cor.  15th  St.  and  Pennsylvania 
Ave.;  Continental  Trust  Company,  cor.  14th  and  H  Sts.;  National 
Savings  and  Trust  Company,  cor.  New*  York  Ave.  and  15th  St.;  Unior 
Trust  Company,  S.   W.  cor.    15th  and  H   Sts. 

c.     Hospitals 

The  following  is  a  selected  list  of  the  more  important 
Washington  hospitals :  Central  Dispensary  and  Emergency 
Hospital,  New  York  Ave.  betw.  17th  and  18th  Sts.  Children's 
Hospital,   13th  and  W  Sts.     Columbia  Hospital  for  Women, 


STEAjMISHIP  and  steamboat  LINES         43 

25th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave. '  Eastern  Dispensary  and  Cas- 
ualty Hospital,  708  Massachusetts  Ave.  N.  E.  Episcopal  Eye, 
Ear  and  Throat  Hospital,  1,147  15th  St.  Garfield  Hospital, 
10th  St.  and  Florida  Ave.  Georgetoivn  University  Hospital, 
35th  and  N  Sts.  National  Homeopathic  Hospital,  2d  and  N 
Sts.  Providence  Hospital,  2d  and  D  St.  N.  E.  George  Wash- 
ington Hospital,  1333  H  St.  Washington  Eye,  Ear  and  Throat 
Hosptal,  2517  Pennsylvania  Ave. 

d.     Baths,  Barber  Shops,  Etc. 

The  Washington  hotels  are  for  the  most  part  liberally 
1  equipped  with  private  bath  rooms,  at  an  average  charge  of 
;    from  $1  to  $1.50  in  excess  of  the  price  of  room. 

Baths.      Hot  and  cold   baths  may  be  obtained  at  all  the  hotels.      No 

charge  is  usually  made  for  the  use  of  hotel  public  baths.     Turkish  baths 

'    may  be  obtained  at  the  Riggs  Lafayette  Baths,  S.  E.  cor.  15th  and  G  Sts. 

Barber  Shops.  Good  barber  shops  are  to  be  found  in  all  the  leading 
hotels,  in  the  Union.  Station,  and  in  many  of  the  principal  office  build- 
ings. Many  shops  employ  colored  barbers.  The  Miller  Chain  of  Barber 
Shops,  with  principal  shop  under  the  National  Theatre,  employs  only 
white  barbers.  Ladies'  Hairdressing  Parlors  are  found  in  the  principal 
department  store's.      (See  also  Hairdressers,   p.   32.) 

e.     Steamship  and   Steamboat   Lines 

A.     POTOMAC  RIVER  LINES 

Norfolk  and  Washington  Steamboat  Co.,  office  at  7th  St. 
Wharves  S.  W.  Daily  service  between  Washington,  Alex- 
andria, Old  Point  Comfort  and  Norfolk,  Va. 

[Potomac  River  Line  (Maryland,  Delaware  and  Virginia 
Ry.  Co.),  office  at  7th  St.  Wharves  IS.  W.  Weekly  service 
(Saturdays)  between  Washington  and  Baltimore. 

Mt.  Vernon  and  Marshall  hlall  Steamboat  Co.,  office  at 
7th  St.  Wharves  S.  W.  Daily  service  (excepting  Sundays) 
between  Washington  and  Mt.  Vernon. 

Washington  Colonial  Beach  Steamboat  Co.,  office  at   /th 

St.  Wharves,  S.  W.    To  Colonial  Beach,  Va.,  July  19  to  Labor 

Day,    on    Tues.,    Thurs.,    Sat.    and    Sun.     Round    trip   $2.00. 

Moonlight  trips  on  Potomac,   Mbn.,  Wed.  and  Fri.,  75c  incl. 

war-tax. 

B.     FOREIGN  STEAMSHIP  LINES 

The  following  are  the  local  offices  or  agencies  of  the 
principal  foreign  steamship  lines : 

American  Line,  1208  F  St.;  Atlantic  Transport  Co.,  1208 
F  St.;  Furness-Bermuda  Line,  Woodward  Building,  731  15th 
St. ;  Cunard  Line,  517  14th  St. ;  Fabre  Line,  Woodward  Build- 
ing, 731  15th  St.;  French  Line,  1419  New  York  Ave.;  Holland- 
American  Line,  1300  G  St. ;  Red  Cross  Linie,  Woodward  Build- 
ing, 731  I5th  St. 


44  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

f.  Newspapers  and  Periodicals 
Newspapers  and  Periodicals.  As  a  publication  center, 
Washington  while  far  from  taking  a  position  of  leadership 
usually  expected  of  a  Capital  City,  stands  somewhat  above 
the  rank  to  which  it  is  entitled  on  a  population  basis  (even 
excluding  the  large  Government  plants  for  engraving,  print- 
ing and  book-binding).  The  total  number  of  newspapers 
and  periodicals  published  within  the  District  of  Columbia  is 
120,  or  approximately  one-tenth  the  number  published  in 
New  York  City.  They  include  6  daily  newspapers,  27  weekly 
periodicals,  5  semi-monthly,  56  monthly,  5  bi-monthly  and 
21  quarterly  magazines.  Among  these  are  only  two  foreign- 
language  periodicals,  both  monthlies,  and  both  virtually 
bulletins  o>f  the  Pan-American  Union. 

The  daily  papers  of  general  circulation  are :  the  Star 
(evening  paper,  independent,  2  cents  daily,  5  cents  Sunday; 
an  old  family  paper,  established  in  1852,  circulation  about 
94,000)  ;  the  Post  (morning  paper,  independent,  2  cents  daily, 
5  cents  Sunday;  circulation  about  58,000)  ;  the  Times  (evening 
paper,  3  cents  daily,  10  cents  Sunday;  the  Hearst  paper  of 
Washington ;  circulation  about  54,000)  ;  and  the  Herald  (morn- 
ing paper,  independent,  one  cent  daily,  5  cents  Sunday;  circu- 
lation about  38,000).  Newspapers  from  Baltimore,  Phila- 
delphia, New  York  and  other  cities,  may  be  bought  at 
principal  news-stands  along  Pennsylvania  Ave. 

Of  the  other  periodicala  published  in  Washington,  there  is  a  group 
connected  with  the  army  or  navy  or  both,  while  another'  group  (such  as 
the  Mining  Congress  Journal,  the  Journal  of  the  Association  of  Official 
Agricultural  Chemists,  etc.),  are  instances  of  a  growing  tendency  of 
commercial  associations  of  country-wide  scope,  to  retain  their  financial 
headquarters  in  New  York,  but  issue  their  official  organ  in  the  National 
Capital. 

Among  other  periodicals  which  find  their  natural  place  of  publica- 
tion in  Washington,  should  be  mentioned:  The  Federal  Employe,  the 
Reclassificationist,  and  various  other  periodicals  concerned  with  the 
interests  of  the  Government  Civil  Service;  the  American  Federationist, 
and  other  labor  magazines;  the  weekly  R.  F.  D.  News,  and  four  other 
periodicals  for  employees  of  the  postal  service;  the  Nation's  Business 
(monthly),  published  by  the  U.  S.  Chamber  of  Commerce.  Washington 
is  also  the  home  of  the  National  Geographic  Magazine,  justly  known 
as  one  of  the  best  illustrated  of  American  periodicals.  It  should  be 
noted  in  conclusion  that  there  is  a  notable  and  perhaps  rather  curious 
absence  here  at  the  Capital  of  periodicals  of  any  sort  with  strong 
political  tendencies. 

XIII.     PLANNING  A  WASHINGTON   STAY 

a.     Distribution  of  Time 

Washington  is  exceptional  among  the  great  world  Capi- 
tals in  the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which  its  principal  sights 


PLANNING  A  WASHINGTON  STAY  45 

may  be  seen.  Thousands  of  excursionists  find  their  way  annu- 
ally to  the  Federal  City,  make  a  hasty  tour  of  its  monuments 
in  one  of  the  many  sight-seeing  cars,  are  rushed  through  the 
Capitol,  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery  and  such  of  the  other  pub- 
lic buildings  as  chance  to  be  open  to  visitors,  and  take  away 
with  them  a  few  indelible  memories  and  the  fallacious  belief 
that  they  have  toured  the  city  with  commendable  thorough- 
ness. In  point  of  fact  such  persons  have  hardly  made  a 
beginning.  To  learn  to  know  Washington,  even  in  a  super- 
ficial degree,  requires  from  a  month  to  six  weeks.  The  Capi- 
tol, the  White  House,  the  various  Department  Buildings  so 

1  obtrude  themselves  upon  the  visitor's  attention  that  he  readily 
overlooks  the  host  of  other  attractions,  the  many  beautiful 
churches,  the  wealth  of  public  and  semi-public  libraries,  the 

[  various  seats  of  higher  education,  the  countless  historic  land- 
marks on  every  street  and  avenue.  Among  the  less  known 
attractions  which  the  visitor  cannot  afford  to  miss  (and  some 
of  which  are  barely  mentioned  in  the  cheap  popular  hand- 
books of  the  city)  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul, 
the  Franciscan  Monastery,  the  Catholic  University,  the  Scot- 
tish Rite  Temple  and  historic  Fort  Stevens. 

Another  reason  why  Washington  cannot  be  thoroughly 

i     visited  in  a  few  days  is  because  of  the  many  restrictions  re- 

i  garding  opening  and  closing  hours,  in  consequence  of  which 
sight-seeing  is  largely  limited  to  week  days  betwen  9  a.  m. 
and  4.30  p.   m.     No  public  building  in  Washington  is   open 

I  evenings,  with  the  sole  exceptions  of  the  Library  of  Con- 
gress, and  the  Capitol  when  Congress  remains  in  session. 
No  public  building  is  open  at  any  hour,  on  Sundays, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Library  of  Congress,  the  New 
Museum  and  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery  (which  may  be  visited 
in  the  afternoon),  and  on  rare  occasions  the  Capitol,  in 
order  to  accommodate  some  large  visiting  delegation.  Even 
the  Washington  cemeteries,  with  few  exceptions,  have  a  rule 
forbidding  the  admission  of  visitors  on  Sunday  but  this  rule 
is  not  strictly  enforced.  On  the  other  hand  the  Washington 
churches,  aside  from  the  Protestant  Episcopal  and  Roman 
Catholic  denominations,  can  be  seen  in  the  daytime  only  at 
the  hour  of  the  Sunday  morning  service. 

Notwithstanding  its  reputation  as  a  "City  of  magnificent 
distances,"  Washington,  thanks  to  its  central  position  in  the 
original  square  of  the  District,  exacts  a  minimum  loss  of 
time  in  urban  travel.  Aside  from  the  suburban  excursions 
into  Maryland  and  Virginia,  practically  every  point  of  in- 
terest to  the  average  tourist  can  readily  be  reached  by  trolley 


46  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

within  less  than  half  an  hour.  Consequently,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary for  the  visitor  with  a  week  or  more  at  his  command  to 
force  himself  to  finish  the  sights  of  one  neighborhood  ex- 
haustively before  moving  on  to  the  next.  It  would  be,  for 
instance,  a  source  of  great  weariness  to  spend  an  entire  day 
on  the  Mall,  toiling  successively  through  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens, the  Aquarium,  the  Army  Medical  Museum,  the  old  and 
new  National  Museums  and  the  Smithsonian  Institute.  A 
far  wiser  plan,  and  the  one  adopted  so  far  as  practicable  in 
the  following  two-weeks'  itinerary,  is  to  spend  one  half  of 
each  day  in  in-door  sight-seeing,  and  the  other  half  in  some 
out-door  ramble,  often  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  the  city. 

Owing  to  the  capricious  nature  of  the  Washington  cli- 
mate, the  visitor  is  warned  not  to  assume  that  a  -day  of  sun- 
shine promises  a  spell  of  good  weather.  Consequently,  the 
first  pleasant  days  should  be  seized  upon  for  the  out-of-town 
excursions.  It  is  a  mistake,  however,  to  visit  Mount  Vernon 
on  Saturday,  when  (especially  if  the  weather  is  good)  the 
throngs  of  tourists  are  apt  to  make  a  leisurely  inspection  of 
the  old   Mansion  almost  impossible. 

Georgetown  can,  if  necessary,  be  seen  in  a  single  visit. 
Inasmuch,  however,  as  several  important  suburban  points 
must  be  reached  through  Georgetown,  it  will  be  found  less 
wearisome  to  inspect  the  old  town  in  two  or  three  successive 
visits   (see  below,  8th  and  nth  Days). 

b.     A  Fourteen  Days'  Itinerary 

The  following  suggested  sight-seeing  itinerary,  which  is 
planned  for  a  stay  of  two  weeks,  is  designed  to  aid  the 
visitor  in  covering  the  principal  points  of  interest  with  a 
minimum  loss  of  time.  The  order  in  which  these  fourteen 
trips  are  taken  may  be  altered  to  suit  the  convenience  or  pref- 
erence of  the  individual  visitor;  but  he  should  carefully  study 
the  days  and  hours  when  the  various  museums  and  public 
buildings  are  open;  also  in  a  few  cases  the  free  and  pay 
days.  He  should  also  familiarize  himself  with  the  routes  of 
the  various  trolley  lines  (p.  10)  ;  for  the  Washington 
trolley  cars  zig-zag  back  and  forth,  turning  corner  after  cor- 
ner with  an  unexpectedness  quite  bewildering  to  a  stranger. 
It  should  be  noted  also  that  the  trips  marked  5th  and  12th 
Days  in  the  present  scheme,  are  the  only  ones  which  can  be 
satisfactorily  taken  on  Sunday. 

1st  Day.  Preliminary  Ramble  down  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  com- 
bined with  a  visit  to  the  Capitol  (p.  50),  including  Ascent  of 
Dome,  the  House   Office  Building    (p.  403),  the  Old  Capitol 


A   FOURTEEN    DAYS'   ITINERARY  47 

Building  (p.  364),  the  Senate  Office  Building  (p.  365),  the 
Plaza  and  Columbus  Monument,  the  Union  Station  (p.  358) 
and  new  City  Post  Office  (p.  357)- 

2d  Day.  Morning:  Lafayette  Square  (p.  184),  the 
President's  Grounds  and  the  White  House  (p.  m),  the 
Treasury  Building  (p.  122),  the  State,  War  and  Navy  Build- 
ing  (p.  126),  the  Octagon  House  (p.  209).  Afternoon;  the 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery  (p.  171). 

3d  Day.  Morning :  Pennsylvania  Ave.  from  the  Peace 
Monument  to  the  Treasury  Building,  including  Central  Mar- 
ket (p.  101),  Post  Office  Department  Building  (p.  104), 
Municipal  Building  (p.  108),  and  the  Sherman  Statue  (p.  125). 
Afternoon:  American  Red  Cross  Building  (p.  154),  Memo- 
rial Continental  Building  (p.  155),  Pan-American  Building 
(p.  162),  Nezv  Navy  Building   (p.  346). 

4th  Day.  Residential  Section,  Morning:  Si.  John's 
Church  (p.  195),  "Avenue  of  the  Presidents"  (p.  195),  ex- 
cursion  E.    and  W.   on   K  St.    (p.  237),   taking   in   McPher- 

J  son  Sq.  (p.  220),  and  Farragut  Sq.  (p.  222);  then  con- 
tinuing N.  on  16th  St.,  passing  National  Geographic  Society 
(p.    199),   Scott  Circle    (p.   200),   Foundry   Church    (p.   202), 

I  Church  of  the  New  Jerusalem  (p.  203),  Scottish  Rite  Temple 
(p.  204),  and  Meridian  Park,  with  new  Joan  of  Arc  and 
Dante  Statues.  At  Harvard  St.  take  Mount  Pleasant 
trolley  S.,  via  Columbia  Road  and  Connecticut  Ave., 
to  Dupont  Circle;  thence  walk  S.  E.  on  Massachu- 
setts Ave.,  passing  (again)  Scott  Circle,  Thomas  Circle 
(p.  228)  and  Lutheran  Memorial  Church  (p.  221),  then 
S.  on  14th  St.,  passing  All  Souls'  Church  (p.  232),  Frank- 
lin Sq.  (p.  232)  and  New  Yprk  Ave.  Presbyterian  Church 
(p.  231).  Afternoon:  Excursion  through  Shopping  Dis- 
trict (p.  141),  passing  Church  of  the  Epiphany  (p.  150), 
St.  Patrick's  Church  (p.  147),  Forays  Theatre  (p.  145), 
the  Lincoln  Museum  (p.  145),  Public  Land  Office  (p.  144) 
and  Patent  Office  (p.  142).  A  visit  to  the  Lincoln  Museum 
can  be  made  any  evening. 

5th  Day.  Morning:  Arlington  Cemetery  and  Fort  Myer 
(p.  504).  Afternoon:  New  National  Museum,  first  visit 
(p.  260). 

6th  Day.  Morning:  Congressional  Library,  first  visit 
(p.  369).  Afternoon:  Washington  Southeast  (p.  J013), 
including    St    Peter's    R.    C.    Church    (p.    411),    Old    Christ 


48  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Church    (p.    406),    Marine    Barracks    (p.    406),    Navy    Yard 
(p.  407),  and  Congressional  Cemetery  (p.  408). 

7th  Day.  Morning:  Mount  Vernon  (p.  487).  After- 
noon: Alexandria  (p.  512)  including  Christ  Church  (p.  514), 
Carlyle  House  (p.  519),  Masonic  Lodge  (p.  517)  and  Marshall 
House   (p.  521). 

8th  Day.  Morning:  Georgetown,  first  visit,  (p.  462), 
including  Georgetown  Heights  (p.  476),  Oak  Hill  Cemetery 
(p-  479),  Tudor  Mansion  (p.  476),  Bodisco  House  (p.  47°) > 
Convent  of  the  Visitation  (p.  473)  and  Volta  Bureau  (p.  475)- 
iVfternoon:  Cathedral  of  St.  Pieter  and  St.  Paul  (p.  455) 
and  American  University  (p.  443). 

9th  Day.  Morning:  Old  National  Museum  (p.  322). 
Afternoon:  Catholic  University  (p.  416)  and  Franciscan 
Monastery  (p.  423). 

10th  Day.  Morning:  National  Museum,  second  visit. 
Afternoon:  Smithsonian  Institution  (p.  255),  Agricultural 
Department  (p.  252),  includling  Greenhouses,  .Washington 
Monument  (p.  342),  Sylvan  Theatre  (p.  348),  Paul  Jones 
Monument    (p.  352)   and  Lincoln  Memorial    (p.  353). 

nth  Day.  Morning:  Army  Medical  Museum  (p.  248), 
Aquarium  (p.  245),  Botanic  Gardens  (p.  241),  Grant  Memorial 
(p.  242).  Afternoon:  Soldiers'  Home  (p.  432),  Rock  Creek 
Church  and  Cemetery  (p.  436),  Brightwood  (p.  438)  and 
Fort  Stevens  (p.  438). 

12th  Day.  Morning:  Ramble  through  the  Old  Residen- 
tial Section  (p.  131),  C  St.  to  Judiciary  Sq.,  passing 
Trinity  P.  E.  Church  (p.  132),  Metropolitan  M.  E.  Church 
(p.  134),  First  Presbyterian  Church  (p.  136),  City  Hall 
(p.  137),  District  Court  of  Appeals  (p.  138)  and  Pension  Office 
(p.  139).  Afternoon:     National  Zoological  Park   (p.  444). 

13th  Day.  Morning:  Georgetown,  second  visit,  Wash- 
ington Headquarters  (p.  465),  former  residences  of  Jef- 
.fcrson  (p.  465),  Francis  Scott  Key  (p.  465)  and  Mrs.  E.  D.  E. 
N.  Southworth  (p.  466),  Georgetown  University  (p.  467). 
Afternoon :     Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac    (p.  484) . 

14th  Day.  Morning.  Washington  Southwest  (p.  240). 
Afternoon:  Excursion  to  Glen  Echo  Park  and  Cabin  John 
Bridge  (p.  483). 


A  FIVE  DAYS'  ITINERARY  49 

c.     A  Five  Days'  Itinerary 

ist  Day.  Capitol  (p.  50),  Pennsylvania  Ave.  (p.  96), 
White  House  and  Vicinity  (p.  Ill),  Corcoran  Art  Gallery 
(p.  171),  American  Red  Cross  (p.  154),  Continental  Memorial 
Hall  (p.   155)   and  Pan-American  Building   (p.   162). 

2d  Day.  The  Mall  (p.  240),  Grant  Memorial  (p.  242), 
Botanic  Gardens  (p.  241),  Aquarium  (p.  245),  Army  Medical 
Museum  (p.  248),  Old  National  Museum,  Smithsonian 
Institution  (p.  255),  Nczv  National  Museum  (p.  260), 
Agricultural  Department  (p.  252)  and  Washington  Monu- 
ment (p.  342). 

3d  Day.  Mount  Vernon  (p.  487),  Alexandria  (p.  512), 
and  Arlington  (p.  5°4)- 

4th  Day.  Morning:  Excursion  from  Judiciary  Sq^ 
through  Shopping  District  (p.  141 )  to  Lafayette  So.  and 
St.  John's  Church  (p.  195)-  Afternoon:  Residential  Sec- 
tion, Sixteenth  St.  N.  to  Harvard  St.;  National  Zoological 
Park  (p.  444)- 

5th  Day.  Morning:  Franciscan  Monastery  (p.  423)> 
Catholic  University  (p.  416),  Soldiers'  Home  (p.  432), 
Rock  Creek  Church  and  Cemetery  (p.  436).  Afternoon: 
Georgetown  (p.  462),  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul 
(p.  455). 


WASHINGTON  NORTHWEST— 
THE  CENTRAL  SECTION 

(From  the  Capitol  to  the  White  House) 

I.     The  National  Capitol 
a.     History 

**The  National  Capitol  (PI.  Ill— F5)  is  situated,  in 
conformity  with  Major  L'Enf  ant's  original  plan  exactly 
in  the  center  of  Washington,  on  the  verge  of  the  bluff 
which  rises  abruptly  to  a  height  of  89  ft.  above  the  mean 
tidal  level  of  the  Potomac  River.  The  building  is  accurately 
located  in  accordance  with  the  cardinal  points  of  the  compass, 
and  fronts  towards  the  east,  because  the  Commissioners  of 
the  projected  Federal  city  erroneously  assumed  that  the  city's 
chief  growth  would  be  eastward. 

The  Capitol  is  open  to  visitors  daily,  Sundays  and  holi- 
days excepted,  from  9  a.  m.  to  4.30  p.  m. ;  also  at  night 
when  the  Senate  or  House  or  both  are  in  Session,  and  this  is 
denoted  by  a  light  burning  just  ibelow  the  statue  of  Freedom. 
The  Capitol  is  reached  most  directly  by  the  Connecticut 
Ave.  trolley  line  (cars  marked  "Mount  Pleasant").  Also  by 
Georgetown-Lincoln  Park  line;  Eleventh  St.  line  (both  passing 
through  E.  First  St.)  ;  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.  line  (cars 
marked  either  "Navy  Yard"  or  "17th  and  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
S.  E.")  to  1st  and  B  Sts.  S.  E.  All  these  lines  bring  the 
visitor  near  to  the  eastern  or  main  entrance  to  the  Capitol. 
All  the  Pennsylvania  Ave.  cars  pass  the  western  entrance  to 
the   Capitol   grounds,   behind   the   Peace   Monument. 

History.  On  March  14th,  1792,  the  Commissioners 
appointed  by  Washington  advertised  for  competitive 
plans  for  the  Capitol  and  for  the  "President's  House," 
to  be  submitted  not  later  than  July  15th  following,  offering 
in  each  instance  $500.00  and  a  building  lot  to  the  successful 
competitor.  The  plans  of  James  Hoban,  a  young  Irishman 
who  had  settled  in  Charleston,  S.  C,  were  promptly  accepted 
for  the  White  House  (p.  11 1).  The  Capitol  proved  to  be 
a  more  troublesome  problem.  The  number  of  rival  plans 
submitted  is  not  recorded ;  but  no  less  than  16  competitors, 
professional   and  amateur,  are  mentioned  by  name  in   docu- 


THE    CAPITOL  51 

ments  of  the  period,  and  nearly  as  many  plans,  some  of 
them  quite  futile,  have  been  preserved  in  the  Maryland  His- 
torical Society,  and  are  reproduced  in  Mr.  Glenn  Brown's 
authoritative  History  of  the  Capitol.  The  only  plans  show- 
ing promise  were  by  Stephen  L.  Hallet,  said  to  have  been 
a  student  under  the  famous  architect  Nash.  Accordingly 
he  was  requested  by  the  Commissioners  to  submit  new 
designs. 

Meanwhile,  although  the  time  limit  had  expired,  Dr. 
William  Thornton,  a  native  of  the  Island  of  Tortola,  West 
Indies,  received  permission  to  submit  plans.  The  simple 
dignity  of  these  designs  greatly  pleased  Washington;  and 
on  March  14th,  1793,  the  Commissioners  notified  Hallet  that 
Thornton's  plans  had  been  accepted,  anq\  the  award  of  $500.00 
and  a  building  lot  granted  him ;  but  that  in  consideration  of 
Hallet's  extra -labor,  he  should  receive  an  equivalent  amount. 

As  Dr.  Thornton  was  admittedly  an  amateur,  Hallet  was 
further  employed  to  examine  the  plans  and  make  estimates ; 
and  he  promptly  reported  adversely  on  the  three  important 
points  of  practicability,  time  and  expense.  Washington  re- 
luctantly requested  Thornton  to  revise  his  plans  to  meet 
these  objections.  The  erection  of  the  Capitol  from  Thorn- 
ton's modified  plans  began  in  August,  1793,  with  Hoban  as 
supervising  architect;  but  since  his  time  was  fully  occupied 
with  the  White  House,  the  Commissioners  made  the  mistake 
of  appointing  Hallet  as  his  assistant.  The  latter  had  not  yet 
relinquished  his  ambition  to  share  in  designing  the  Capitol, 
and  not  only  continued  to  offer  substitute  plans  and  sugges- 
tions, but,  in  spite  of  frequent  rebukes,  deliberately  disre- 
garded Thornton's  plans  in  several  essential  points,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  he  was  dismissed  in  1794.  It  was  then 
found  necessary  to  tear  down  part  of  the  work,  namely: 
the  foundations  of  the  Rotunda,  which  Hallet  had  chosen  to 
make  square  instead  of  circular.  These  facts  need  to  be 
emphasized,  since  Hallet*  has  popularly  received  a  large  share 
of    the    credit,    where    he    deserved    little    or    none. 

*See,  however,  monograph  Stephen  Hallet  and  his  designs  for  the 
National  Capitol  1791-1794  in  Journal  of  the  American  Institute  of 
Architects  for  July,  Aug.,  Sept.  and  October,  19 16,  by  Wells  Bennett — 
University   of   Michigan. 

After  Hallet's  dismissal  he  was  succeeded  by  George 
Hadfield,  an  Englishman  recommended  by  Benjamin  West. 
When  Hadfield,  in  his  turn,  quarreled  with  the  Commission- 
ers and  resigned,  the  work  was  pushed  rapidly  under  the  per- 
sonal   direction   of    Thornton    as    one    of   the    Commissioners 


52  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

of  Federal  Buildings,  assisted  by  Hoban  as  superintendent. 
But  before  the  walls  of  either  Capitol  or  White  House  had 
reached  the  roof -line,  the  Commissioners,  in  1796,  found 
themselves  obliged  to  ask  Congress  for  an  apprecia- 
tion of  money.  It  was  finally  through,  the  aid  of  the 
state  of  Maryland  that  sufficient  funds  were  available  for 
pushing  the  work;  and  in  the  summer  of  1800  the  W.  wing 
of  the  Capitol  was  ready  for  occupancy  by  the  Senate.  The 
walls  of  the  South  Wing  had  been  carried  to  a  height  of 
20  ft.,  and  roofed  over  temporarily  for  the  House.  It  was 
popularly  known  as  "The  Oven,"  and  here  the  House  met 
until  1804,  when  the  roof  was  removed  and  the  building 
completed  by  Benjamin  H.  Latrobe,  who  had  succeeded 
Hoban  in  1803.  Meanwhile  the  House  sat  in  the  room  then 
used  for  the  Library  of  Congress,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  N. 
wing. 

The  House  Wing  was  finished  in  181 1,  and  the  Hall  was 
regarded  as  a  very  beautiful  structure.  The  central  build- 
ing had  not  yet  been  begun,  and  the  two  Halls  were  con- 
nected  by   a    covered   wooden    passageway. 

On  the  24th  of  August,  1814,  the  British  burned  the 
interior  of  both  Wings.  Fortunately  the  outer  walls  remained 
uninjured.  Latrobe  was  appointed  by  Congress  to  super- 
intend the  work  of  reconstruction.  This  architect  has  left 
a  highly  interesting  account  of  the  condition  in  which  he 
found  the  building:  "The  appearance  of  the  ruins,"  he  says, 
"was  perfectly  terrifying."  He  describes  the  stone  columns, 
supporting  the  halls,  as  having  been  so  badly  eaten  away  by 
fire  that  in  many  of  them  only  a  few  inches  of  contact  re- 
mained. Many  important  parts,  however,  were  quite  unin- 
jured; among  them  the  entrance  to  the  hall  of  the  House, 
the  corn  capitals  of  the  Senate  vestibule  and  the  vaults  of 
the  Senate  Chamber.  Some  of  the  Committee  rooms  of  the 
old  House  wing  were  not  even  soiled. 

Owing  to  friction  with  his  superiors  Latrobe  resigned 
in  November,  1817.  He  may  be  accredited  with  having  made 
the  original  design  for  the  reconstruction  of  the  South 
Wing  or  old  hall  of  Representatives,  and  the  old  Senate 
Chamber;  he  also  modified  the  west  front  of  the  central 
building  and  the  eastern  portico. 

Latrobe  was  succeeded  by  Charles  Bulfinch  in  January, 
1818.  The  latter's  only  original  contributions  were  the  de- 
signs for  the  western  central  portico,  the  earth  terraces  and 
landscape  work.  His  modifications  were  designed  to  correct 
the   original    mistake   made   in   placing   the   building   too    far 


THE    CAPITOL  53 

west,  so  as  to  overhang  the  brow  of  Capitol  Hill,  exposing 
an  unsightly  sub-basement  story.  This  he  concealed  with  a 
semi-circular  glacis  and  sloping  terraces.  On  March  24th,  the 
foundation  of  the  central  building  was  laid ;  and  the  whole 
edifice  completed  in  1825,  essentially  in  accordance  with 
Thornton's  original  plans. 

For  a  quarter-century  the  Capitol  remained  unchanged. 
In  1850,  however,  urgent  need  of  additional  space  was 
recognized ;  and  on  September  30th  an  Act  was  passed  author- 
izing extensions  to  be  built,  subject  to  the  approval  of  the 
President.  From  the  designs  submitted,  Mr.  Fillmore  se- 
lected those  of  Thomas  U.  Walter,  who  was  accordingly 
placed  in  charge  the  following  June,  1851.  The  cornerstone 
of  the  proposed  additions,  consisting  of  the  present  Senate 
and  House  Wings,  was  laid  by  the  President  on  July  4th, 
of  that  year.  An  eloquent  oration  was  delivered  by  Daniel 
Webster. 

By  the  following  January,  the  foundations  of  both  wings 
were  laid  and  the  basement  story  finished.  That  same  month, 
the  western  front  of  the  central  building  was  injured  by 
fire,  and  the  following  summer  was  rebuilt  by  Walter  from 
new  designs.  In  1855  the  old  wooden  dome  was  removed,  and 
contracts  placed  for  the  casting  of  the  iron-work  required 
for  the  new  one.  The  new  Senate  Chamber  was  first  occu- 
pied in   1859,  and  that  of  the   House  in  1857. 

The  outbreak  of  the  war  in  1861  failed  to  interrupt  the 
work  upon  the  dome,  the  exterior  of  which  was  completed 
in  1863,  Crawford's  bronze  statue  of  Freedom,  which  sur- 
mounts it,  being  placed  in  position  on  December  2d. 

In  1874  the  veteran  landscape  architect  Frederick  Law 
Olmsted  (1822-1903)  was  appointed  to  superintend  the  im- 
provements of  the  Capitol  grounds.  To  him  are  due  mainly 
the  present  grading  of  the  grounds ;  the  ornamental  grotto 
near  the  N.  W.  corner ;  the  balustrades  and  bronze  lanterns ; 
the  spacious  plaza  opposite  the  east  facade,  with  its  two  large 
rectangular  fountain  basins  of  pink  Tennessee  granite;  and 
lastly  the  profusion  of  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  (229 
varieties)  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  including, 
in  addition  to  a  majority  of  the  separate  states,  China,  Japan, 
Syria,  the  Himalayas  and  Siberia.  The  marble  terraces  along 
the  north,  west  and  south  fronts  were  added  during  1882-91. 
They  were  designed  and  supervised  by  Edward  Clark. 

b.     The   Building  and  Its  Approaches 
It  is  hard   to   decide   which   of   the  two  approaches  has 
the    advantage    in    regard    to    one's    first    impression    of    the 


»TTW. 


*-»-»-■-'■ 


THE    CAPITOL  55 

Capitol.  But  since  the  west  approach  necessitates  the  ascent 
of  nearly  one  hundred  steps,  while  the  east  involves  less 
walking  and  no  climbing,  the  great  majority  choose  the  latter. 

Eastern  Approach.  The  East  Fagade  fronts  upon  a 
spacious  plaza,  where  once  in  four  years,  on  the  4th  of 
March,  many  thousands  gather  to  witness  the  Inaugural 
ceremony,  which  takes  place  upon  a  special  temporary  plat- 
form  erected  before  the  central  portico.  Opposite,  on  E. 
side  of  plaza  three  driveways  run  eastward,  the  outer  ones 
curving  to  N.  and  S.  respectively,  while  the  central  one  is 
prolonged  beyond  the  Capitol  Grounds  by  East  Capitol  St. 
To  the  R.,  on  S.  E.  cor.  of  First  St.  are  the  granite  walls 
and  gilded  dome  of  the  Library  of  Congress  (p.  369),  and 
further  to  the  S.  is  the  glistening  white  marble  House  Office 
Building  (p.  403).  Occupying  the  same  relative  position 
on  the  N.  is  the  Senate  Office  Building,  while  beyond  and 
still  further  to  the  L.  are  seen  in  the  distance  the  Columbus 
Monument,  the  Union  Station  (p.  358)  and  the  new 
City  Post  Offi-ce\  (p.  357)- 

Opposite  the  Capitol  and  flanking  the  three  driveways  are  six 
lamp  piers,  13  ft.  high,  consisting  of  blue-stone  base  and  red  sand- 
stone band,  surmounted  by  blue-stone  and  Passamaquaddy  red  granite, 
inalternate  coures,  supporting  bronze  lamps  12  ft.  high  (designed  by 
Thomas  IVisedell,  of  New  York).  Behind  the  lamps,  to  R  and  L.  of 
central  driveway,  are  two  low  rectangular  fountain  basins,  also  of 
Passamaquaddy  granite  and  containing  lofty  inner  basins  of  bronze, 
from  whose  margins  the  water  drips  in  a  thin  veil. 

Following  the  outer  curves  of  the  side  driveways,  and  extending 
to  N.  and  S.  respectively,  are  two*  continuous  stone  -eats,  consisting  of 
a  blue-stone  plinth  and  base,  Seneca  stone  back  and  blue-stone  coping. 
Each  of  these  quadrants  is  divided  into  eight  spaces  by  stone  piers 
surmounted  by  bronze  lamp  posts   12  ft.  high. 

Western  Approach.  Facing  the  western  boundary  of  the 
Capitol  grounds  are  seen  the  Botanical  Gardens  (p.  162) » 
bounded  on  N.  and  S.  respectively  by  the  converging  lines  of 
Pennsylvania  and  Maryland  Aves.  The  lines  of  these  Ave- 
nues are  continued  within  the  grounds  by  broad  promenades 
overarched  with  double  rows  of  Oriental  Plane  trees 
(Platanus  orientalis),  and  leading  steadily  upward  (with 
occasional  short  flights  of  steps)  to  the  marble  terraces  of 
the  western  entrance    (erected  1882-91). 

The  visitor  approaching  from  this  side  will  note  on  L.,  near  N.  W. 
cor.  of  grounds,  a  picturesque,  ivy-covered  rest-house  of  red  brick, 
whose  walls  form  a  truncated  equiangular  triangle.  The  interior  con- 
tains seats  and  a  circular  stone  basin  with  fountain.  Above  the  seats 
are  latticed  openings,  the  one  on  E.  giving  a  view  of  an  ornamental 
grotto,  in  which  a  small  stream  trickles  among  the  rocks. 

In  the  grounds  W.  of  the  Capitol  Building  are  two  circular  stone 
towers  with  openings  under  ground  for  the  air  ducts  forming  part  of 
the  ventilating  system  by  which  the  Senate  Chamber  and  Hall  of 
Representatives   are    supplied    with    fresh   air. 


56  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

From  the  lower  terrace,  which  extends  approximately 
280  ft.  N.  and  S.,  ascend,  on  R.  and  L.,  two  imposing  stair- 
ways of  74  steps,  broken  by  landings  into  the  following  divi- 
sions:  i6-|-i6-j-2i-f-2i.  Between  these  stairways  the  sustain- 
ing wall  of  the  upper  terrace  forms  a  semi-circle,  contain- 
ing nine  arched  niches.  In  the  centre  of  this  semi-circle  is  a 
fountain,  the  lower  basin  of  which  measures  forty  feet.  The 
octagonal  upper  basin  is  monolithic,  of  white  marble,  borne 
on  eight  short  columns  of  red  granite  and  surmounted  by  a 
tassa  of  pink  marble.  Directly  in  front,  in  the  centre  of  the 
terrace,  stands  the  impressive  seated  statue,  in  bronze,  of 
Chief  Justice  John  Marshall  (1755-1833),  heroic  size,  by 
IV.  W.  Story  (1819-95).  This  statue,  the  gift  of  members 
of  the  United  States  Bar,  was  erected  in  1884  at  a  cost  of 
$40,000. 

On  the  lofty  marble  pedestal  are  two  interesting  bas- 
reliefs:  1.  on  South  side,  "Victory  leads  young  America  to 
swear  Fidelity  at  the  Altar  of  the  Union"  (the  closely  planted 
shrubbery  makes  it  difficult  to  read  the  above  inscription). 
The  central  figures  are  all  female.  Note,  on  L.,  a  submissive 
Indian;  and  on  R.  a  bas-relief  reproduction  of  the  seated 
statue  of  Justice  Marshall. 

2.  on  North  side :  "Minerva  dictating  the  Constitution  to 
young  America."  On  L.,  behind  America,  are  the  mothers 
and  daughters  of  the  country;  on  R.  are  the  American  law- 
makers (among  whom  again  occur  the  features  of  Justice 
Marshall). 

Ascending  the  stairway  we  reach  the  second  terrace 
forming  a  broad  esplanade  separated  from  the  basement  of 
the  building  by  a  sort  of  trench  or  moat,  affording  light  and 
air  to  the  sub-basement.  Underneath  this  terrace  are  a 
series  of  apartments  now  utilized  as  offices,  but  which,  during 
the  early  days  of  the  Civil  War,  were  converted  into  bakeries, 
which  turned  out  daily  16,000  loaves  for  the  use  of  the 
army. 

From  this  terrace  the  visitor  may  enter  directly,  through 
central  door,  the  basement  floor  of  the  Capitol,  from  which 
stairs  lead  to  the  western  door  of  the  Rotunda.  It  is, 
however,  more  advisable  to  follow  the  terrace,  making  a 
half  circuit  of  the  building,  around  to  the  main  eastern  por- 
tico, thus  having  an  opportunity  to  study  the  architectural 
features    of   the    Capitol's    exterior. 

The  Bronze  Doors  for  Western  Central  entrance,  designed 
by  Louis  Amateis,  are  now  on  exhibition  at  the  New  National 
Museum  (p.  263). 


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THE    CAPITOL  57 

The  Capitol  building  as  it  stands  to-day,  including  the 
old  central  portion  as  originally  conceived  by  Thornton,  with 
the  modern  Dome  and  Northern  and  Southern  extensions 
designed  by  Walter,  is  in  the  main  an  adaptation  of  the 
Corinthian  order  of  architecture,  and  covers  an  area  of 
153,112  sq.  ft.,  or  652  sq.  ft.  over  y/2  acres.  The  entire  length 
is  751  ft.  4  in.  The  greatest  dimension  from  E.  to  W.  is 
350  ft.  The  wings,  including  porticoes  and  steps,  have  a 
breadth  (E.  to  W.)  of  239  ft.,  or  including  porticoes  and 
steps  324  ft.  Between  the  original  building  and  each  extension 
is  a  connecting  corridor  44  ft.  long  and  56  ft.  deep. 

Materials :  The  old  central  building  is  of  Aquia  Creek, 
Va.  sandstone,  painted  white ;  the  twenty-four  monolithic 
columns  of  the  eastern  Central  Portico  are  of  Maryland 
sandstone ;  the  N.  and  S.  extensions  and  connecting  corridors 
are  of  Dolomite  marble,  almost  white,  from  Lee,  Mass. 
(1851-65)  ;  the  columns  of  the  extension  porticoes  are  mon- 
oliths of  Dolomite  marble  from  Cockeysville,  Md. 

The  visitor,  especially  if  approaching  from  the  W.,  should 
I     note  the  fidelity  with  which  the  original  details  of  construc- 
tion have  been   duplicated,   course  by  course,   in  the  N.  and 
S.   extensions.     Both   the  old   central   portions   and  the  wings 
consist    of    a    rustic    basement,    supporting    an    ordinance    of 
Corinthian  pilasters,  which  rise  throughout  the  height  of  two 
■     stories.     Upon  these  pilasters   rest  an  entablature  and   frieze, 
j     surmounted  by  a  balustrade.     From  the  central  portion  rises 
j     with    deceptive    lightness    and    grace    the    ponderous    mass    of 
Walter's  iron   Dome,   probably  the   most   universally    familiar 
object  in  all  American  architecture.     It  springs  from  a  peri- 
style of   36  fluted   Corinthian  columns,  and  rises  to  a  height 
of    287    ft.   5    in.    above   the   base   line   of    the    E.    front.      Its 
height  from  the  roof  balustrade  is  217  ft.  11  in.,  and  diameter 
at  the  base  is  135  ft.  5  in.     It  is  surmounted  by  a  lantern  50 
ft.    in   height   which    sustains   the   bronze   statue   of    Freedom, 
modeled  by  Crawford,  which  measures  19  ft.  6  in.  in  height, 
I     and  weighs  12,985  pounds. 

The  old  wooden  dome  with  its  copper  sheathing  was  taken  down 
in  1856,  and  the  present  structure  of  cast-iron  was  completed  in  1865. 
The  total  weight  of!  iron  used  in  the  dome  is  8,909,200  pounds.  The 
I  total  weight  about  the  cellar  floor  including  the  sustaining  walls,  is 
computed  at  57,292,253  lbs.,  giving  a  pressure  of  only  13,071  lbs.  per 
sq.  ft.  That  of  St.  Peter's,  Rome,  is  33,330  lbs.  per  sq.  ft.;  St.  Paul's, 
London,   39,450  lbs.;  and  St.  Genevieve,  Paris,  60,000  lbs. 

The  Eastern,  or  M'ain  Facade  has  three  stately  porticoes, 
supported  on  Corinthian  columns,  and  surmounted  by  pedi- 
ments   containing   allegorical   groups.     The    Mcin   Central,   or 


58  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Rotunda  Portico,  is  160  ft.  wide,  with  24  columns  sustaining 
an  80-ft.  pediment,  with  sculptures  representing  the  Genius  of 
America,  executed  by  Luigi  Persico,  after  a  design  by  John 
Quincy  Adams   (then  Secretary  of  State). 

The  central  figure,  Armed  America,  rests  her  shield,  bearing  the 
letters  U.  S.  A.  upon  an  altar  inscribed  with  the  date,  July  4,  1776. 
She  is  listening  to  Hope,  at  the  same  time  pointing  to  Justice  who  holds 
the  Constitution,  inscribed   with  the  date  of  its  adoption,   Sept.    17,    1787. 

The  porticoes  of  the  Wing's  have  22  columns  each.  The 
Pediment  of  the  Senate  Portico,  executed  by  Thomas 
Crawford,  depicts  American  Development  and  the  Decadence 
of  the  Indian  Race.  Here  also  America  is  the  central  figure, 
bestowing  honor  upon  General  Washington.  On  R.  are  the 
Elements  of  Strength  on  which  this  country  relies  :  Soldier. 
Merchant,  Schoolmaster,  Youth  and  Mechanic,  ending  with 
Wheat  Sheaf  and  Anchor,  symbols  of  property  and  stability. 
On  L.  are  the  Forerunners  of  Civilization:  Pioneer,  Hunter, 
Indian  Warrior  and  Indian  Mother  and  Child  mourning  be- 
side a  grave.  Crawford  received  $17,000  for  his  models.  The 
figures  were  all  chiseled  on  the  Capitol  Grounds  by  skilled 
Italian  w?orkmen,  from  Lee,  Mass.,  marble,  at  a  cost  of 
$26,000. 

The  Bronze  Doors  of  the  Senate  Portico  are  described 
on  p.  75- 

VThe  House  Wing  Pediment.  After  remaining  vacant 
for  more  than  four  score  years,  this  pediment  was  at  last 
rilled  in  1916  by  a  group  executed  by  Paul  W.  Bartlett.  In 
the  centre  is  an  allegorical  presentment  of  "Peace  Protecting 
Genius."  Peace,  a  commanding  female  figure  with  'breast- 
plate and  coat  of  mail  almost  hidden  'by  her  mantle,  stands 
with  left  arm  resting  on  buckler  which  is  supported  by  the 
altar  at  her  side.  Her  right  arm  is  protectively  extended 
over  the  winged  figure  of  youthful  Genius  who  holds  the  torch 
of  Immortality.  The  composition  is  completed  by  two  other 
groups  respectively  symbolizing  the  two  fundamental  powers 
of  lalbor  and  sources  of  wealth :  On  E.,  Agriculture ;  on 
W.,  Industry. 

"The  most  modest  of  our  farmers  and  laborers  can  find  in  these 
groups  the  symbol  of  his  own  self  and  of  his  endeavors.  .  .  .  He 
will  see  that  his  helpmate,  his  children,  his  cattle,  and  the  harvest 
from  his  fields  have  been  exalted  and  carved  in  marble  forms.  The 
printer,  the  ironworker,  the  founder  can  do  the  same.  .  ...  The 
toiling  factory  girl  will  observe  that  she  has  not  been  forgotten,  and 
those  who  are  devoted  to  the  sea  can  discover  a  group  which  will  remind 
them   of  the  joys   of   their  vocation. 

"A  wave  terminates  the  sculpture  at  either  end  of  the  pediment, 
and    is    meant    to    indicate    that    all    this    humanity,    all    its    power    and 


THE    CAPITOL  59 

energy,  are  comprised  between  the  shores  of  the  two  oceans — the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific,."  From  Speech  by  Paul  W .  Bartlett  at  Unveiling 
Exercises,  Aug.   2,    1916. 

The  Bronze  Doors  of  the  House  Portico  are  described 
on  p.  88. 

Since  the  Tour  of  the  Capitol  here  given  is  planned  to 
start  from  the  Rotunda,  the  visitor  should  enter  through  the 
Main  Central  Portico.  On  R.  and  L.  of  Grand  Central 
Stairway  are  two  colossal  marble  groups.  That  on  S.  side 
represents  The  Discovery  of  America,  by  Lmigi  Persico,  and 
consists  of  two  figures,  Columbus  and  an  Indian  girl,  the 
former  clad  in  armor  modeled  from  a  suit  preserved  in  Genoa, 
and  believed  to  have  been  worn  'by  Columbus.  The  group  on  N. 
side  is  The  Rescue,  by  Horatio  Gre enough,  and  depicts  a 
deadly  conflict  between  an  Indian  and  a  Pioneer.  The  Gov- 
ernment paid  $24,000  apiece  for  these  groups. 

In  the  center  of  the  Portico  are  — 

*The  Rogers  Bronze  Doors.  These  doors,  completed  in 
1861,  were  modeled  in  Rome  by  Randolph  Rogers,  in  1858, 
the  sculptor  receiving  $8000;  and  cast  in  Munich  by  F.  von 
Muller,  at  a  cost  of  $17,000.  After  some  controversy  regard- 
ing their  location,  they  were  first  erected  in  the  passageway 
connecting  the  Old  Hall  of  Representatives  (Statuary  Hall) 
with  the  House  Wing.  They  proved,  however,  a  serious  ob- 
struction in  a  corridor  which  at  best  was  none  too  wide ; 
and  in  1870  the  House)  voted  to  have  them  transferred  to  their 
present  position.  The  two  leaves  are  each  17  ft.  high  and  4^ 
ft.  wide,  and  are  surmounted  by  a  semi-circular  transom 
panel.  The  whole  is  enclosed  by  a  richly  ornamented  casing, 
semi-circular  at  the  top,  and  projecting  about  a  foot  in  front 
of  the  leaves.  The  key  of  the  casing  arch  bears  a  bust  of 
Columbus. 

At  top  and  bottom  of  the  two  sides  of  casing  are  four  statuettes 
representing:  (S.  upper  cor.)  Asia,  with  oriental  head-gear;  (N.  upper 
cor.)  Africa,  with  necklace  of  claws  and  teeth;  (S.  lower  cor.)  Europe, 
with   diadem;    (N.   lower   cor.)    America,   with    liberty   cap    and    shield. 

There  are  nine  panels,  four  on  each  leaf  of  the  door,  and  one 
in  the  transom.  Between  these  panels  are  ten  heads,  five  on  each 
leaf,  "representing  historians  who  have  written  on  his  (Columbus') 
voyages,  from  his  own  time  down  to  the  present  day,  ending  with 
Irving  and  Prescott."  The  correspondence  between  Rogers  and 
Thomas  U.  Walter,  then  architect  of  the  Capitol,  sheds  no  further 
light  regarding  these  heads;  but  two  are  evidently  women,  and  two 
others    are    Indians. 

On  R.  and  L.  of  the  eight  door-panels  are  16  statuettes  in  niches, 
repiesenting  contemporaries  of  Columbus,  who  figured  prominently  in 
his   life.     The    names   are   inscribed   beneath    them: 

A.  (L.  Margin  of  S.  Door,  from  bottom  upward) :  1.  (facing 
1  st    Historic   Panel)    Juan    Perez,    Prior   of   the    Convent    of    La    Rabida. 


60  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

through  whose  influence  Columbus  obtained  an  audience  with  Queen 
Isabella;  2.  Cortez,  Conqueror  of  Mexico;  3.  Don  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  an 
unloyal  follower  of  Columbus;  4.  Amerigo  Vespucci;  B.  (R.  Margin  of 
S.  Door,  from  top  downward);  5.  Pedro  Gonzales  de  Mendoza,  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo;  6.  Queen  Isabella;  7.  Dona  Beatriz  de  Bobadilla 
(there  being  no  extant  likeness  of  the  lady,  the  sculptor  modeled  her 
features  after  his  wife);  8.  Henry  VII.  of  England;  C.  (L.  Margin 
of  N.  Door,  from  bottom  upward);  9.  John  II.  of  Portugal;  10.  Charles 
VIII.  of  France;  11.  Ferdinand,  King  of  Spain  (it  should  be  noted 
that  the  doors,  when  closed,  bring  the  king  and  queen  side  by  side) ; 
12.  Pope  Alexander  VI.;  D.  (R.  Margin  of  N.  Door):  13.  Francisco 
Pizarro,  Conqueror  of  Peru;  14.  Balboa,  Discoverer  of  the  Pacific; 
15.  Bartholomew  Columbus,  brother  of  the  Discoverer  (there  being  no 
extant  portrait,  the  sculptor  reproduced  his  own  features);  16.  Martin 
Alonzo  Pinzon,  Captain  of  the  Pinta,  and  first  to  sight  the  land  of 
the  New  World. 

Panels:  a.  L.  door  (from  bottom  up):  1.  Columbus  expounding 
his  project  to  the  Council  of  Salamanca;  2.  Columbus  leaving  the 
friendly  Convent  of  La  Rabida>  to  seek  an  audience  with  Queen  Isa- 
bella; 3.  Columbus  laying  his  plan  before  the  King  and  Queen  of 
Spain;  4.  Columbus  about  to  sail,  bidding  farewell  to  his  son;  5.  Tran- 
som panel:   The  landing  at   the   Island   of   San   Salvador. 

b.  R.  door  (from  top  downward) ;  6.  First  intercourse  between  the 
Indians  and  the  Spaniards;  7.  The  triumphal  entry  into  Barcelona; 
8.  Columbus  arrested  on  false  charges,  and  sent  back  to  Spain  in 
chains;    9.   The   death    of   Columbus   at   Valladolid. 

Above  the  bronze  dioor  is  a  bas-relief  by  Antonio 
Capellano  consisting  of  a  portrait  bust  of  Washington,  with 
two  winged  female  figures,  each  extending  a  laurel  leaf,  and 
symbolizing:  1.  (N.  side)  Fame,  with  trumpet;  2.  (S.  side) 
Peace,  with  palm  of  Victory;  signed  A.  Capellano  fecit  1827. 
To  R.  and  L.  of  entrance  are  Persico's  two  marble  statues, 
heroic  size,  symbolizing  War  and  Peace:  (on  N.)  Mars  in 
Roman  armor,  with  shield  and  spear;  (on  S.)  Ceres,  with 
olive  branch  and  fruits. 

c.     The  Rotunda  and  Dome 

Passing  through  the  Rogers  doorway,  we  enter  at  once 
the  **Rotunda,  an  immense  circular  chamber  situated  im- 
mediately beneath  the  Dome,  and  occupying  the  exact  center 
of  the  Capitol.  It  measures  aproximately  96  ft.  in  diameter, 
while  the  height  from  the  floor  to  the  frescoed  canopy  is 
180  ft.  3  in.  The  wall  is  broken  by  four  doorways,  situated 
at  the  four  cardinal  points,  and  divided  into  a  series  of  eight 
spacious  panels  by  an  ordinance  of  12  fluted  pilasters,  30  ft. 
in  height,  supporting  an  entablature  and  cornice  of  14  ft. 
It  was  the  intention  of  the  architect,  Mr.  Walter  (p.  53), 
that  the  9  ft.  panel  encircling  the  Dome,  immediately  above 
the  cornice,  should  be  occupied  by  a  sculptured  frieze  in  high 
relief,  the  subject  to  be  the  History  of  America.  This  plan 
was  subsequently  discarded  in  favor  of  a  chiaroscuro  fresco 
by  Constantino  Brnmidi,  in  imitation  of  alto-relievo. 


THE    CAPITOL  61 

No  account  of  the  National  Capitol  would  be  complete  without 
a  brief  biographical  note  on  Constantino  Brumidi  (1805-80),  who,  for 
a  quarter  of  a  century  was  in  charge  of  the  Capitol's  mural  decora- 
tions. He  was  born  in  Rome  of  a  Creek  father  and  Italian  mother; 
was  for  a  time  Captain  of  the  National  Cuards;  and  during  the 
Pontificate  of  Pius  IX  was  commissioned  to  restore  some  of  Raphael's 
Logge  in  the  Vatican.  As  Captain  of  the  Cuard  he  once  refused  to 
order  his  Command  to  fire  upon  the  people,  in  consequence  of  which  he 
was  arrested  and  imprisoned  without  trial  for  14  months.  There- 
after the  Pope  counseled  Brumidi  to  leave  Italy,  doubting  his  own 
power  to  protect  him  from  Cardinal  Antonelli.  In  a  written  statement, 
still  extant,  Brumidi  explains  that  it  was  "the  French  occupation  of 
Rome  in  1849,  for  the  suppression  of  Republican  Institutions,  that  de- 
termined him  to  emmigrate  to  America  where  a  great  Republic  was  al- 
ready established."  Here  he  became  a  naturalized  citizen,  and  in  1855 
executed  the  first  of  his  mural  decorations  in  what  was  then  the  Com- 
mittee Room  on  Agriculture  (p.  ).  Henceforward,  for  the  rest 
of  his  life,  he  carried  out  his  idea  that,  "the  solid  construction  of 
this  National  building  required  a  superior  style  of  decoration  in  real 
fresco,  like  the  Palaces  of  Augustus  and  Nero,  the  Baths  of  Titus 
and  Livia."  Early  in  1880,  while  engaged  on  his  final  work,  the  His- 
toric Frieze,  Brumidi  narrowly  escaped  a  tragic  accident.  He  was 
alone  on  his  platform  when  the  bench,  on  which  he  sat,  was  pushed 
too  far  backward  and  fell.  Brumidi  was  left  clinging  to  the  rungs 
of  a  ladder  until  an  attendant,  who  happened  to»  see  the  accident  from 
an  upper  balcony,  hurried  to  his  rescue.  His  death  shortly  afterwards 
is  attributed   to  this  shock  at  his  advanced  age. 

The  *Frieze,  as  originally  planned  by  Brumidi,  was  to 
consist  of  16  historic  panels,  of  which  he  lived  to  finish  the 
first  seven,  leaving  at  his  death  the  designs  for  eight  others, 
drawn  on  a  reduced  scale.  Filippo  Costaggini  (1837-1907), 
who  continued  the  frieze  from  Brumidi's  designs,  purposely 
crowded  them  in  order  to  leave  room,  not  for  one  panel,  but 
two  of  his  own  design.  The  15  completed  panels  are  as 
follows : 

a.  Executed  by  Brumidi:  1.  The  Landing  of  Columbus, 
1492;  2.  Cortez  entering  the  Hall  of  the  Montezumas,  1521; 
3.  Pizarro's  Conquest  of  Peru,  1533;  4.  The  Burial  of  de 
Soto,  1541 ;  5.  Pocahontas  saving  the  Life  of  Captain  John 
Smith,  1606;  6.  The  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims,  1620;  7.  Penn's 
Peace  Treaty  with  the  Indians,  1682.  It  was  while  painting 
this  panel  that  Brumidi  met  with  the  accident  which  hastened 
his  death.  The  exact  point  where  he  stopped, — namely :  the 
group  of  three  Indians, — may  readily  be  distinguished  by  the 
spectator,  through  the  pronounced  change  in  the  tone  of  the 
background. 

b.  Executed  by  Costaggini:  8.  Scene  in  Plymouth  Col- 
ony, 1620;  9.  Oglethorpe  and  the  Indians,  1732;  10.  The 
Battle  of  Lexington,  1775;  11.  The  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, 1776;  12.  The  Surrender  of  Cornwallis,  1781  ;  13. 
The  Death  of  Tecumseh,  1813 ;  14.  General  Scott's  Entry  into 


62  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

the    City    of    Mexico,    1847;    15.  The    Discovery    of    Gold    in 
California,   1848. 

For  his  share  in  the  frieze,  which  occupied  him  during  the  years 
1869-80,  Brumidi  received  approximately  $25,000.  Costaggini's  work 
(1880-89),  including  the  enlarged  cartoons  from  Brumidi's  designs, 
cost  the  government  $10,084.  It  is  not  known  what  subject,  if  any, 
Brumidi  had  in  mind  for  his  final  panel.  The  two  designs  offered  by 
Costaggini  were:  1.  The  Junction,  May,  1869,  of  the  Union  and 
Central  Pacific  Railroads  at  Promontory  Point,  Utah,  with  Leland 
Stanford  driving  in  the  Golden  Spikes  which  completed  the  iron  bond 
between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans;  2.  The  Opening  of  the 
World's  Fair  at  Chicago,  1893,  with  President  Cleveland  pressing  the 
electric  button,  which  set  the  wheels  in  motion.  These  designs  were 
the  subject  of  a  vigorous  debate  in  the  Senate,  in  the  course  of  which 
strong  objection  was  made  to  an  historical  frieze  "which  omits  George 
Washington  and  Abraham  Lincoln  and  presents  Mr.  Cleveland,  when 
we  consider  the  respective  positions  of  Mr.  Lincoln  and  Mr.  Cleveland 
during  the  Great  War  of  the  Rebellion."  The  work  has  remained 
at  a  standstill,  and  Brumidi's  disfiguring  platform  and  ladders  have 
been  removed. 

Above  the  Frieze  rises  a  loftly  colonnade  containing  the 
lowest  of  the  inner  galleries.  Between  the  columns,  and 
completely  encircling  the  gallery,  are  a  series  of  spacious 
windows,  the  only  means  of  lighting  the  'Rotunda  from  with- 
out. From  this  colonnade  springs  the  Dome,  which  contracts 
to  a  space  of  50  ft.,  revealing  another  and  lighter  colonnade 
supporting  the  second  gallery,  just  beneath  the  65  ft.  canopy 
which  closes  in  the  Dome  at  the  base  of  the  lantern.  This 
canopy  is  occupied  by  Brumidi's  great  fresco :  The  Apotheosis 
of  Washington,  which  will  be  described  later  in  connection 
with  the  Ascent  of  the  Dome  (p.  64). 

Aside  from  Brumidi's  frescoes,  the  only  art  works  in  the 
Rotunda  are  a  few  statues,  some  sculptures  in  high-relief 
and  eight  ^Historic  Paintings  (18x12  ft.),  four  belonging  to 
the  Early  Historical  and  four  to  the  Revolutionary  Period. 

The  latter  four,  the  work  of  Col.  John  Trumbull  (1756-1843)  are 
of  special  interest,  because  of  the  number  of  authentic  portraits  which 
they  contain.  The  artist,  son  of  Gov.  Jonathan  Trumbull,  of  Conn., 
was  for  a  time  aide  and  military  secretary  to  Washington.  After  the 
war,  the  young  officer  conceived  the  ambition  to  develop  his  natural 
artistic  gift,  "with  the  hope  of  thus  binding  his  name  to  the  great 
events  of  the  Revolution,  by  becoming  the  graphic  historiographer  of 
them  and  of  his  comrades."  He  studied  art  in  Europe;  and  while 
in  London,  painted  John  Adams,  then  Minister  to  England;  and  in 
Paris  Thomas  Jefferson,  Minister  to  France;  also,  at  Jefferson's  house, 
the  French  officers  whose  portraits  he  would  need  for  the  Yorktown 
picture.  Trumbull  spent  in  all  thirty  years  of  preparation  for  these 
four  pictures,  which,  in  1816,  he  was  commissioned  by  Congress  to 
paint.  He  received  $8,000  each  for  them.  The  other  four  artists 
received  respectively:  Vanderlyn,  Chapman  and  Weir,  $t 0,000  each; 
Powell,  $12,000.  A  complete  key  to  the  historical  characters  hanga 
below    each    picture. 


THE    CAPITOL  63 

These  paintings  and  sculptures  may  be  seen  in  the  follow- 
ing order,  from  R.  to  L.,  beginning  at  the  W.  of  the  north 
door: 

1.  (Over  N.  doorway)  William  Penn  making  a  Treaty 
with  Delaware  Indians,  sandstone  panel  in  high-relief,  by  N. 
Gevclot;  2.  Washington,  bronze  bust,  by  David  d' Angers; 
3.  Washington  Resigning  his  Commission  (Annapolis,  Dec. 
23d,  1783),  painting  by  Trumbull;  4.  Abraham  Lincoln,  mar- 
ble head,  by  Gutson  Borglum;  5.  Surrender  of  Cornwallis  at 
Yorktown,  painting,  by  Trumbull;  6.  (above,  in  panel)  Head 
of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh:  this  and  the  other  three  heads  to 
R.  and  L.  of  side  doors,  were  the  work  of  Causici  and 
Capellano,  executed  in  1827;  cost,  $9,500;  7.  Lincoln,  marble 
statue,  by  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie  (1847-1914)  ;  bought  by  Con- 
gress for  $15,000;  8.  (over  W.  doorway)  Pocahontas  saving 
the  Life  of  Captain  John  Smith,  sandstone  panel  in  high-relief, 
by  Antonio  Capellano;  9.  Ulysses  S.  Grant,  marble  statue,  by 
Franklin  Simmons;  10.  Surrender  of  General  Burgoyne  at 
Saratoga,  Oct.  17,  1777,  painting  by  Trumbull;  II.  (above) 
Head  of  Columbus;  12.  Alexander  Hamilton,  marble  statue, 
by  Horatio  Stone;  13.  Signing  the  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence, Philadelphia,  1776,  painting  by  Trumbull;  14.  (above  S. 
door)  Conflict  between  Daniel  Boone  and  the  Indians,  sandstone 
panel  in  high-relief,  by  Enrico  Causici;  15.  Baptism  of 
Pocahontas,  painting  by  John  G.  Chapman;  16.  Col.  Edward 
D.  Baker,  of  Oregon  (b.  181 1;  mortally  wounded  at  Ball's 
Bluff,  Oct.  21,  1861),  marble  statue  by  Horatio  Stone;  17. 
Discovery  of  the  Mississippi,  painting  by  William  H.  Powell 
(1824-79);  18.  (above)  Head  of  La  Salle;  19.  Washington, 
plaster  cast  (after  marble  by  Houdon),  by  William  J. 
Hubard;  20.  (above  E.  door)  The  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims, 
sandstone  panel  in  high-relief,  by  Enrico  Causici;  21.  Thomas 
Jefferson,  bronze  statue,  by  David  d 'Angers;  22.  Landing  of 
Columbus,  painting,  by  John  Vanderlyn  (1776-1852)  ;  23. 
(above)  Head  of  Cabot;  24.  Lafayette,  marble  bust  by  David 
d' Angers;  25.  The  Embarkation  of  the  Pilgrims,  painting  by 
Robert  W.  Weir  (1803-89). 

Some  little  publicity  has  been  given  to  so-called  "amusing  blunders'" 
in  the  Rotunda  paintings,  regarding  which  the  visitor  may  decide  for 
himself,  i.  In  "Washington  Resigning  his  Commission,"  the  two  young 
girls  with  intertwined  arms  apparently  have  between  them  five  hands, 
(reminiscent  of  the  man  with  three  hands  in  the  famous  frescoes  in  the 
Spanish  Chapel,  Florence).  It  is  explained,  however,  that  the  fifth  hand 
is  that  of  the  girls'  father,  Charles  Carroll  of  Carrollton.  2.  In  "The 
Baptism  of  Pocahontas,"  the/  seated  Indian  has  on  one  foot  six  distinct 
toes.  Chapman's  defenders  claim  that  since  he  was  "a  draftsman  of 
distinction,"  this  particular  Indian  must  have  borne  the  degenerate- 
stigma  of  a  sixth  toe.     3.  In  "The  Landing  of  Columbus,"  the  latter's  vaL 


64  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

iant  company  bear  aloft  three  flags,  each  of  which  is  blown  in  a  different 
direction.  Champions  of  the  artist  remind  us  that  freakish  winds  some- 
times produce  queer  results. 

History.  The  chief  historic  associations  of  the  Rotunda  are  in 
connection  with  the  last  honors  paid  to  some  of  the  country's  greatest 
men.  Here  Lincoln  lay  in  state  April  19-21,  1865.  Here  Thaddeus 
Stevens  lay  in  state  Aug.  13-14,  1868,  and  was  carried  hence  to 
be  buried,  at  his  request,  ''in  a  cemetery  where  black  as  well  as 
white  were  admitted."  Here  Garfield  lay  in  state  Sept.  21-23,  1881, 
the  funeral  sermon  being  delivered  by  the  Rev.  F.  D.  Poweres  of  the 
Verm  emit  Ave.  Christian  Church  (p.  221).  Vice-President  Logan  here 
lay  in  state  Dec.  30th,  1886.  The  coffin  rested  upon  the  same  bier 
that  had  held'  Lincoln,  Garfield,  Chase,  Sumner  and  Stevens.  Others 
whose  remains  have  more  recently  rested  on  the  historic  Lincoln  Bier 
are:  William  McKinley,  Sept.  17,  1901;  Pierre  C.  L'Enfant,  April  28, 
1909;  Admiral  George  Dewey,  Jan.  20,  1917;  the  Unknown  Soldier, 
Nov.    9-1 1,    1921. 

The  N.  door  of  the  Rotunda  opens  into  a  small  circular 
colonnade,  constituting  the  second  story  or  balcony  of  a 
small  basement  rotunda  open  to  the  roof,  and  surmounted 
by  a  low  dome  and  central  skylight.  This  balcony  floor  is 
borne  upon  a  series  of  massive  buttresses  and  in  turn  upholds 
sixteen  Corinthian  columns  upon  which  rests  the  dome. 
Note  the  capitals  of  these  columns,  representing  tobacco 
leaves  and  blossoms  (Francisco  Iardella,  sculptor).  In  this 
colonnade,  the  S.  E.  door  leads  to  public  elevator  and  stair- 
way. At  the  foot  of  these  stairs,  just  outside  the  basement 
entrance,  in  the  arcade,  is  a  *Bronze  Tablet,  erected  in  1895, 
marking  the  location  of  the  Corner-stone  of  the  original 
Capitol,  laid  Sept.  18th,  1793,  and  commemorating  the  Cen- 
tenary Celebration  in  1893. 

The  opposite,  or  S.  W.,  door  opens  upon  a  winding  stair- 
way by  which  the  *Ascent  of  the  Dome  may  be  made.  Open 
free,  week-days  from  9  a.  m.  to  3 :45  p.  m. ;  closed  on  Sun- 
days. These  stairs  presently  open  on  a  short  passage  and 
second  door,  plainly  marked  "To  the  Dome."  Continuing 
the  ascent  the  visitor  reaches,  at  the  7/th  step,  a  third  door 
opening  outside  upon  a  narrow  platform,  following  the  curve 
of  the  Rotunda  wall.  Zig-zag  steps  rising  between  the 
Rotunda  and  the  Senate  Wing  lead  to  a  fourth  door,  opening 
upon  the  lowest  inner  gallery  encircling  the  base  of  the 
Dome  (128  steps  from  ground  floor).  This  is  the  best  point 
from  which  to  study  the  Frieze  (p.  61). 

The  Dome  rises  from  the  level  of  this  gallery,  and  con- 
sists of  an  inner  and  outer  shell  of  iron,  held  together  by 
a  multitude  of  bars  and  bolts.  Here  the  stairs  curve  steeply 
between  the  two  shells,  the  steps  partly  overhanging  like 
saw-teeth.  At  the  184th  step,  midway  up  the  Dome,  the  first 
exterior  balcony  is   reached;   at  the  240th,   the   upper   inner 


THE     CAPITOL  65 

balcony,  directly  beneath  the  great  *Canopy  Fresco,  Brumidi's 
masterpiece. 

This  fresco,  covering  an  area  of  4664  ft.  and  costing  the 
government  $40,000,  consists  of  a  central  group,  The  Apothe- 
osis of  Washington,  and  six,  surroundirig  symbolic  groups. 
It  is  best  studied  in  detail  from  this  upper  gallery. 

In  the  center  is  Washington,  enthroned  upon  a  rainbow 
and  surrounded  by  brilliant  clouds.  On  his  right  is  the  God- 
dess of  Liberty;  on  his  left  are  winged  Fame  and  Victory. 
Half  surrounding  them  are  a  semi-circle  of  female  figures 
with  joined  hands,  representing  the  original  thirteen"  states. 
They  are  arranged  geographically  beginning  on  Washington's 
left:  New  Hampshire;  Massachusetts;  Rhode  Island;  Con- 
necticut; New  York;  New  Jersey;  Pennsylvania;  Delaware; 
Maryland;  Virginia;  North  Carolina;  South  Carolina  and 
Georgia.  The  leaves,  blossoms  and  other  ornaments  worn 
by  the  maidens  represent  the  staple  products  of  the  several 
states. 

The  six  surrounding  groups,  from  L.  to  R.,  beginning 
with  the  lower  group  on  Washington's  left,  are  as  follows : 

1st  Group.  War:  Freedom  with  drawn  sword  aided  by 
ian  eagle,  has  vanquished  Tyranny  and  Oppression,  who  are 
fleeing,  accompanied  by  Anger,  Revenge  and  Discord. 

2d  Group.  Agriculture :  Ceres,  Goddess  of  the  Harvest, 
jsits  in  the  center  holding  the  Horn  of  Plenty.  America, 
(wearing  Liberty  Cap,  grasps  the  reins  of  a  pair  of  fiery 
jhorses  hitched  to  an  American  reaper.  Beside  Ceres  stands 
Pomona  with  a  basket  'of  fruit,  while  near  the  reaper  kneels 
jFlora  gathering  flowers. 

3d  Group.  Mechanics :  In  the  center  stands  Vulcan  sur- 
rounded by  cannon-balls,  mortars  and  other  mechanical  prod- 
ucts ;  he  leans  upon  an  anvil  with  his  right  foot  resting  on 
ja  cannon. 

4th  Group.  Commerce:  Mercury  the  patron  of  mer- 
chants seated  on  a  pile  of  bales  and  boxes,  holds  up  a  bag 
lof  gold  to  the  gaze  of  Robert  Morris,  the  Financier  of  the 
jRevolution. 

There  is  a  touch  of  irony  in  this  picture,  when  one  remembers 
that  after  Morris  guided  his  country  safely  through  its  financial  diffi- 
culties,   he   himself   died   a   bankrupt   in   a   debtor's   prison. 

5th  Group.  The  Marine :  Neptune  in  Royal  state  emerges 
from  the  deep  seeking  to  discover  what  mighty  event  is  tak- 
ing place.  Below  him  Aphrodite  is  engaged  in  laying  the 
(Atlantic  cable  which  she  has  just  received  from  a  winged 
cherub. 


66  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

6th  Group.  The  Arts  and  Sciences :  Minerva  armed  with 
helmet  and  spear,  stands  in  the  center  near  an  electrical  ma- 
chine, the  principles  of  which  she  is  explaining  to  a  group 
composed  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  Robert  Fulton  and  Prof. 
Morse. 

In  his  later  yeajs  Brumidi  was  charged,  chiefly  by  the  Southern 
press,  with  having  caricatured  in  his  frescoi  the  leaders  of  the  Confed- 
eracy. This  he  always  denied;  and  probably  the  likenesses  are  acci- 
dental. But  in  the  ist  group,  representing  War,  the  figures  to  the  R. 
of  Freedom,  with  her  drawn  sword,  resemble  Jefferson  Davis,  and 
Alexander  H.  Stephens,  the  President  and  Vice-President  of  the  Con- 
federate States;  while  the  two  figures  on  the  L.  equally  suggest  Gen. 
Robert  E.  Lee  and  John  B.  Floyd,  Sec.  of  War  under  Buchanan. 
The  scene  might  well  have  been  meant  to  symbolize  the  stamping  out  of 
the  Rebellion. 

d.    The  Supreme  Court  Rooms 

Descending  again  to  the  starting  point  we  may  continue 
northward  to  the  Supreme  Court  Lobby.  It  should  be  re- 
membered that  we  are  now  in  the  old  Senate  Wing,  the  first 
part  of  the  Capitol  to  be  completed  (p.  52).  The  first  door 
on  the  R.  opens  into  the  Supreme  Court  Room  (the  old 
Senate  Chamber).  An  attendant  at  the  door  will  admit  visitors 
on  all  proper  occasions. 

Supreme  Court.  This  Hall,  occupied  since  i860  by  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  was  originally  the  Senate 
Chamber.  After  its  partial  destruction  by  the  British  in 
1814,  it  was  rebuilt  by  Latrobe  from  designs  taken  from 
ancient  Greek  theaters,  and  is  admittedly  one  of  the  hand- 
somest rooms  in  the  Capitol.  It  is  semi-circular  in  form 
and  its  general  resemblance,  on  a  smaller  scale,  to  the  old 
Hall  of  Representatives  cannot  fail  to  be  noticed.  Its  dimen- 
sions are :  75  ft.  long,  45  ft.  high  and  45  ft.  wide  in  the  cen- 
ter. Along  the  rear  of  E.  wall  is  a  screen  of  columns  and 
pillars  of  gray-green  Potomac  marble,  supporting  an  en- 
tablature, above  which  is  the  historic  Eastern  Gallery. 
Pilasters  of  the  same  marble  break  the  curve  of  the  western 
wall.  The  ceiling,  rising  in  a  half  dome,  is  ornamented  with 
square  caissons  of  stucco.  The  Hall  is  lighted  by  a  large 
central  sky-light. 

Between  the  central  columns  on  the  E.  side,  surmounted 
by  a  hovering  eagle,  formerly  stood  the  chair  of  the  President 
of  the  Senate;  on  the  dais  below  him  were  the  desks  of  the 
clerks,  now  replaced  by  the  long  "Bench"  of  the  Supreme 
Court.  The  enclosed  semi-circle,  formerly  occupied  by  the 
desks  of  the  Senators,  now  constitutes  the  -'Bar,"  reserved 
for   the    tables    of    the    Attorney    General,    official    reporters, 


THE    CAPITOL  67 

stenographers  and  Council  legally  admitted  to  practice  in 
United  States  courts.  In  the  rear  are  seats  for  spectators. 
The  additional  iron  galleries  formerly  above  these  seats 
have  been  removed ;  and  nothing  now  obstructs  the  view  of 
the  series  of  marble  busts  here  placed,  of  former  Chief 
Justices.    These  busts  from  N.  to  S.  are  as  follows: 

1.  Morrison  R.  Waite,  7th  C.  J.,  1874-1888,  by  Augustus 
Saint-Gaudcns  ;  2.  Roger  B.  Taney,  5th  C.  J.,  1835-64;  by 
Saint-Gaudcns ;  3.  Oliver  Ellsworth,  3d  C.  J.,  1796-99 ;  by 
Hezekiah  Augur  (1791-1858);  4.  John  Jay,  1st  C.  J.,  1789-95, 
by  John  F razee;  5.  John  Rutledge,  26.  C.  J.,  1795,  by 
Alexander  Gait  (1827-63)  ;  6.  John  Marshall,  4th  C.  J.,  1801- 
35,  by  Hiram  Powers;  7.  Salmon  P.  Chase,  6th  C.  J.,  1865- 
*  73,  by  T.  D.  Jones;  8.  Melville  W.  Fuller,  8th  C.  J,,  1888-1910, 
by  William  Ordway  Partridge. 

History.  In  point  of  historic  interest  this  chamber  is  probably 
the  most  important  in  the  Capitol  building.  Here  Jefferson  twice  deliv- 
ered his  inaugural  address  and  took  the  Oath  of  Office,  both  times  in 
the  presence  of  Chief  Justice  Marshall.  Here  in  Oct.,  1803,  the  Senate 
confirmed  the  Treaty  with  Napoleon  I,  by  which  the  United  S'tates 
acquired  the  vast  territory  known  as  the  "Louisiana  Purchase."  Here 
the  Senate  sat,  Dec.  2,  1823,  when  Monroe  sent  to  Congress  his  historic 
message  formulating  the)  "Monroe  Doctrine."  Here  in  1830  took  place 
the  famous  debate  between  Webster  of  Massachusetts,  and  Hayne  of 
South  Carolina,  in  the  course  of  which  Webster  gave  utterance  to  his 
famous  phrase,  "Liberty  and  Union,  now  and  forever,  one  and  insep- 
arable." It  was  in  this  room  that  Calhoun,  Clay  and  Webster,  in 
their  old  age,  made  their  farewell  speeches,  and  two  of  the  three  soon 
afterwards  lay  here  in  state,  Calhoun's  funeral  taking  place  April  2d, 
1850,  and  that  of  Clay  July  1st  1852.  On  May  22d,  1856,  the  old 
Senate  was  the  scene  of  an  assault  upon  Sumner  by  Brooks,  a  Member 
of  the  House,  who  struck  him  over  the  head  with;  a  cane,  inflicting 
,.  injuries  from  which  the  aged  Senator  was  slow  to  recover.  In  Feb., 
1877,  the  Bench  of  the  Supreme  Court  was  occupied  by  the  Electoral 
Commission  which  here  decided  the  Hayes-Tilden  contested  election, 
declaring  Hayes  President.  Among  the  many  cases  argued  before  the 
Supreme  Court  since  its  -occupancy  of  this  chamber  in  i860,  that  which 
probably  aroused  the  greatest  public  interest  was  the  Income  Tax  Case, 
argued  in  March,  1895,  by  Richard  Olney,  then  Attorney  General,  and 
Joseph  H.  Choate,  resulting  in  a  vote  of  5  to  4  declaring  the  statute 
unconstitutional. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Supreme  Court  Lobby,  be- 
hind a  screen  of  monolithic  columns  of  Potomac  marble,  are 
the  Offices  of  the  Clerk  of  the  Supreme  Court.  These  offices 
are  not  open  to  the  general  public;  but  a  request  to  enter 
them  will  usually  be  granted.  The  inner,  or  private  office 
(entered  through  N.  W.  door  in  main  office),  contains  several 
interesting  old  portraits  of  former  Clerks  of  the  Court: 

►  North    Wall:      1.    James    H.    McKenney,    by    Albert   Rosenthal    (b. 

1863);  2.  Samuel  Bayard,  Clerk  1791-94,  Artist  Unknown.  3.  John 
Tucker,  portrait  bv  Charles  Armor,  after  Gilbert  Stuart;  4.  William 
Griffith,  by  Harold  L.  MacDonald   (b.    1861). 


68  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

East  Wall:  5.  E.  B.  Caldwell,  by  Albert  Rosenthal;  6.  Plaster 
bust  of  James  M.  Wayne   (1790-1867),  Assoc.  Justice  S.   C. 

South  Wall:  7.  William  T.  Carroll,  Clerk  1827-62,  by  Rufus 
Wright;   8.    Daniel   Wesley   Middleton,   by  Thomas   Hicks. 

Following  the  main  corridor  N.  from  the  Supreme  Court 
Lobby  towards  the  Senate  Wing,  we  pass  (1st  door  on  L.) 
the  Supreme  Court  Robing  Room.  Here  the  Justices  assume 
their  voluminous  black  silk  gowns,  the  only  relic  in  the  United 
States  of  the  traditional  costume  of  the  English  Judiciary. 
On  each '  court_  day,  just  a  minute  before  12  o'clock,  led  by 
the  Chief  Justice,  they  file  across  to  the  Lobby  which  leads 
to  the  Bench.  At  such  times  the  Court  Messengers  stop 
traffic  by  stretching  crimson  cords  across  the  corridor.  The 
Robing  Room  is  not  open  to  the  general  public,  and  the  visitor 
should  welcome  any  chance  opportunity  to  inspect  it.  In  the  -. 
Vestibule  may  be  seen,  behind  glass  doors,  the  heavy  silk 
robes  of  the  Justices,  each  of  whom  provides  his  own;  also, 
in  S._  E.  cor.,  a  quaint  old  mirror  dating  back  to  the  time  of 
Madison.  In  the  Robing  Room  are  several  important  por- 
traits of  former  Chief  Justices: 

South  Wall  (R.  to  L.)  :  1.  Roger  B.  Taney  (C.  J.  1836- 
64),  by  George  P.  A.  Healy  (presented  by  the  Washington 
Bar  Association)  ;  2.  John  Jay  (C.  J.  1789-94),  copied  from 
Gilbert  Stuart  (presented  by  the  Justice's  grandson,  John  Jay, 
late  Minister  to  Austria)  ;  3.  Oliver  Ellsworth  (C.  J. 
1796-99),  by  Charles  L.  Elliott  (the  features  were  copied 
from  a  family  group  by  R.  Earle,  now  in  Windsor,  Conn.) 
4.    John   Marshall    (C.   J.    1801-35),   by  John  B.  Marten. 

West  Wall:  5.  Melville  W.  Fuller  (C.  J.  1888-1910), 
by  Albert  Rosenthal.  f 

East  Wall:  (R.  to  L.)  :  6.  Morrison  R.  Waite  (C  J. 
1874-88),  by  Cornelia  Adele  Fassettj  above:  7.  John  Rut- 
ledge  (appointed  1795,  but  never  confirmed),  by  Robert 
Hinckley,  from  a  miniature  by  John  Trumbull;  8.  Salmon  P. 
Chase   (C.  J.   1865-73),  by  William  Cogswell   (1819-1903). 

North  Wall:  9.  *John  Marshall  (C.  J.  1801-35),  by  Rem- 
brandt Peale.  This  portrait  was  presented  by  the  Bar  of 
New  York  to  Chief  Justice  Chase,  and  bequeathed  by  him 
to  the  Supreme  Court. 

The  furniture  is  of  historic  interest,  many  of  the  chairs 
having  come  from  the  old  Continental  Hall  in  Philadelphia. 
The  Justices  not  infrequently  are  dissatisfied  with  the  chairs 
assigned  them  on  the  Bench  and  exchange  them  for  others.  » 
Some  of  the  chairs  in  this  room  still  bear  the  cards  of  for- 
mer Justices. 


THE     CAPITOL  69 

e.     The  Senate  Wing 

Continuing  N.  along  the  main  corridor,  we  next  reach 
the  North  or  Senate  Wing,  entering  first  the  main  Senate 
Lobby.  Opposite  the  corridor  is  the  principal  doorway  to 
the  Senate  Chamber.  Formerly  visitors  were  allowed  on  the 
floor  of  the  Senate  until  11  145  A.  M.,  or  fifteen  minutes 
before  the  Houses  convene.  This  privilege,  however,  was 
stopped  about  fifteen  years  ago,  and  no  visitor  can  enter  un- 
less taken  in  by  a  Senator. 

The  Lobby  contains  a  number  of  portraits;  also  marble 
busts  of  former  vice-presidents,  supplementing  the  collection 
in  the  Senate  galleries.  They  are  placed  in  the  following 
order,  beginning  at  the  S.  E.  corner : 

East  Wall:  1.  John  C.  Calhoun,  portrait,  by  Henry  F. 
1  Darby  (b.  about  1831)  ;  2.  Henry  Clay,  portrait,  by  Darby. 

North  Wall:  3.  James  S.  Sherman,  bust,  by  Bessie  Pot- 
ter Vonnoh  (1872-  )  ;  4.  Daniel  Webster,  portrait,  by  John 
N eagle  (1796-1865)  ;  5.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  bust,  by  James  E. 
Fraser  (1876-     )  ;  6.  William  B.  Allison,  portrait,  by  Wilbur 

A.  Reaser;  7.  Adlai  E.  Stevenson,  bust,  by  Franklin  Sim- 
mons; 8.  Levi  P.  Morton,  bust,  by  Frank  Edzvin  Elwell 
(1858-  )  ;  9.  Abraham  Lincoln,  portrait,  by  Freeman  Thorp; 
10.  Garrett  A.  Hobart,  bust,  by  Elwell;  11.  *George  Wash- 
ington, by  Gilbert  Stuart  (purchased  'by  Congress  in  1876  for 
$1200)  ;  12.  Charles  W.  Fairbanks,  bust,  by  Franklin  Sim- 
mons. 

West  Wall :  13.  Thomas  Jefferson,  portrait,  by  Thomas 
Sully    (1783- 1872)  ;    14.  Patrick    Henry,    portrait,    by    George 

B.  Matthczvs  (1857-       ). 

y  South    Wall :     15.  John   Adams,   copy   by  E.   F.  Andrezvs 

(11835-1915),  of  portrait  by  Stuart;  16.  John  Langdon,  por- 
trait, by  Hattie  E.  Burdette;  17.  Justin  S.  Morrill,  portrait, 
by  Eastman  Johnson;  18.  Charles  Sumner,  portrait,  by  W. 
Ingalls. 

To  R.  of  entrance  stands  a  venerable  mahogany  clock, 
installed  in  1803.  Note  on  the  front  of  case  the  seventeen 
stars,  emblematic  of  the  first  seventeen  states,  the  latest  of 
which  to  be  admitted  was  Ohio,  in  1802. 

The  Senate  Gallery  is  reached  by  either  of  the  two 
Grand  Stairways,  at  the  E.  and  W.  end  respectively  of  the 
Senate  Wing.  At  the  foot  of  the  West  Stairway  stands  a 
marble  statue  of  John  Hancock,  by  Horatio  Stone  (1808-75). 
Opposite,  above  the  stairway  landing  is  a  large  painting,  The 

►  Battle  of  Chapultepec,  by  James  Walker  (1819-89).     It  rep- 
resents the  storming  of  the  old  castle  by  the  American  army, 


7o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

under  General  Scott,  September  13th,  1847.  It  was  painted 
originally  for  the  Committee-room  of  Military  Affairs  of 
the  House,  a  fact  which  explains  the  curve  of  the  upper 
corners. 

Facing  the  stairs  on  the  next  or  Gallery  floor,  hangs  a 
full-length  portrait  of  ^Washington,  by  Charles  Wilson 
Peale.  The  portrait  was  begun  in  1778,  when  Washington 
was  forty-six  years  old,  but  was  not  finished  until  after  the 
battles  of  Trenton,  Princeton  and  Monmouth.  At  the  latter 
place,  Washington  suggested  that  a  good  background  for  the 
picture  was  afforded  by  the  view  from  the  window  of  the 
framehouse  where  they  then  sat.  Accordingly  Monmouth 
Court-House  was  added,  together  with  a  party  of  Hessians 
leaving  under  guard  of  American  troops.  Later  Old  Nassau 
College  was  also  included,  at  Princeton,  where  the  painting  , 
was  finished.  A  replica,  now  in  Versailles,  was  executed  by 
the  artist  in  fulfilment  of  a  commission  from  Louis  XVI 
through  Lafayette. 

The  Gallery  corridors  extend  around  the  four  sides  of 
the  Senate  Chamber,  excepting  at  the  northwest  corner, 
which  is  reserved  for  the  use  of  members  of  the  Press. 
The  doors  on  the  outer  sides  of  the  corridors  open  into 
various  committee  rooms ;  those  on  the  inner  sides  give 
entrance  to  the  various  sections  of  the  Senate  Gallery.  In  a 
niche  in  N.  wall  of  E.  Senate  corridor  is  the  marble  bust  of 
Vice-President  Thos.  R.  Marshall  (1913-21),  by  Moses  A. 
Wainer. 

The  Senate  Chamber  is  a  spacious  hall,  113  ft.  long 
and  80  -  ft.  wide,  inclusive  of  the  galleries  which  extend 
around  the  four  sides.  The  space  beneath  these  galleries  is  * 
occupied  on  the  north  side  by  the  Senate  Lobby  (p.  y2>)  \  on  the 
other  three  sides  by  cloak-rooms  for  the  Senators.  The 
floor  area  is  thus  diminished  to  84  by  51  ft.  The  height  of 
ceiling  is  36  ft.  The  walls  are  of  marble  and  are  paneled 
by  pilasters  grouped  in  pairs.  The  doors,  desks  and  chairs 
are  of  mahogany.  Note  especially  the  high-backed  and 
richly  carved  chair  of  the  President  of  the  Senate,  presented 
originally  to  Vice-President  Hobart.  The  ceiling  is  flat  and 
constructed  of  iron  girders  inclosing  broad  panels  of  stained 
glass,  the  designs  symbolizing:  War,  Peace,  Union,  Progress 
and  the  various  Arts,  Sciences  and  Industries. 

History.     In   the   Senate   Chamber   every   four  years,   on 
March  4th,  the  Vice-President-elect  takes  the  oath  of  office 
which  is  usually  administered  by  the  retiring  Vice-President    < 
in    the    presence    of    the    President,    the    President-elect    and 


THE    CAPITOL 


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72  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

members  of  the  Senate  and  the  House.  This  ceremony 
takes  place  immediately  before  the  inauguration  of  the 
President.  In  this  chamber  are  ratified  all  treaties  made  by 
the  United  States  with  foreign  powers.  Here,  in  March, 
1868,  began  the  famous  impeachment  trial  of  President  John- 
son, culminating,  on  May  16th,  with  the  President's  acquittal. 
It  was  in  the  Senate  Chamber  that  the  funeral  of  Chief 
Justice  Chase  took  place,  May  12th,  1873 ;  and  here  also  the 
funeral  ceremonies  of  Charles  Sumner,  March  13th,  1874. 

The  visitor  should  note  that  there  are  no  portraits,  paint- 
ings or  mural  frescoes  in  the  Senate  Chamber.  This  is  in 
accordance  with  a  unanimous  resolve  passed,  Feb.  15th,  1884, 
to  the  effect  that  "no  paintings  or  portraits  be  placed  upon 
the  walls  of  the  Senate  Chamber."  The  set  of  marble  busts 
of  former  Vice-Presidents,  described  below,  was  specifically 
authorized  by  a  resolution  passed  May  13th,   1886. 

The  Gallery  of  the  Senate  Chamber  completely  sur- 
rounds the  four  sides,  and  is  partitioned  off  into  eight  sec- 
tions ;  four  occupy  the  middle  of  their  respective  sides  and 
the  other  four  the  corners.  *The  Ladies'  Gallery  is  in  the 
S.  corridor;  the  Men's  Gallery  occupies  two  sections  at  the 
S.  W.  and  N.  W.  cors. ;  the  Diplomatic  Gallery  is  in  the 
middle  of  the  S.  side,  directly  opposite  the  Press  Gallery, 
which  is  above  and  behind  the  desk  of  the  President  of  the 
Senate;  in  the  middle  of  the  E.  end  is  the  Senator's  Gal- 
lery. The  remaining  two  sections  are  marked  "Reserved 
Gallery."  While  Congress  is  in  Session,  access  may  be  had 
during  the  early  morning  hours  to  all  these  galleries  ex- 
cepting that  reserved  for  the  Press,  the  only  entrance  to 
which  is  through  the  private  Press  rooms.  This  is  the  only 
time  when  the  visitor  has  an  opportunity  to  examine  at 
close  hand  the  series  of  marble  busts  of  the  first  twenty 
Vice-Presidents  of  the  United  States,  some  of  which  are  of 
admirable  workmanship.  They  do  not  run  in  chronological 
order  but,  starting  on  the  middle  of  the  N.  side,  have  been 
added  alternatively  R.  and  L.  The  following  is  a  list  of  these 
busts,  from  L.  to  R.,  including  date  of  office,  sculptor  and 
the  respective  section  of  the  gallery  including  each : 

Press  Gallery  (North  Wall,  center)  :  1.  John  Adams, 
1789-97,  by  Daniel  Chester  French;  2.  Thomas  Jefferson, 
1 797-1801,  by  Moses  Ezekiel   (1844-1917)  ;   Reserved  Gallery: 

3.  George  Clinton,  1805-13,  by  Vittorio  A.  Ciani  (1858-1908)  ; 

4.  Daniel  C.  Tompkins,  1817-25,  by  Charles  H.  Niehaus; 
(East  Wall)  5.  Martin  Van  Buren,  1833-37,  by  U.  S.  J. 
Dunbar;  Senator's  Gallery:     6.  John  Tyler,  1841,  by  William 


THE    CAPITOL  73 

C.  McCausIen;  7.  Millard  Fillmore,  1849-50,  by  H.  J.  Elli- 
>  cott;  Ladies'  Gallery:  8.  John  C.  Breckinridge,  1857-61,  by 
James  P.  Voorhces  (1855 — )  ;  (South  Wall)  :  9.  Andrew 
Johnson,  1865,  by  William  C.  McCausIen;  10.  William  A. 
Wheeler,  1877-81,  by  Edward  Clark  Potter;  Diplomatic  Gal- 
lery: 11.  Thomas  A.  Hendricks,  1885-89;  by  U.  S.  J.  Dim- 
bar;  12.  Chester  A.  Arthur,  1881,  by  Augustus  Saint-Gau- 
dens;  Men's  Gallery :  13.  Schuyler  Colfax,  1869-73,  by  Frances 
M.  Goodwin;  14.  Hannibal  Hamlin,  1861-05,  by  Franklin  Sim- 
mons; (West  Wall)  :  15.  William  R.  King,  1853-57,  by  W.  C. 
McCausIen;  Reserved  Gallery:  16.  George  M.  Dallas,  1845-49, 
by  H.  J.  Ellicott;  17.  Richard  M.  Johnson,  1837-41,  by  /.  P. 
Voorhces;  Men's  Gallery:  18.  John  C.  Calhoun,  1825-33,  by 
f  Theodore  A.  Mills;  (North  Wall)  :  19.  Elbridge  Gerry,  1813- 
17,  by  Herbert  Adams;  20.  Aaron  Burr,  1801-05,  by  Jacques 
Jouvenal   (1829-1905). 

In  South  Corridor,  East  Wall,  are  two  historical  paintings 
by  John  Blake  White,  of  Charleston,  S.  C  (1781-1850)  : 
1 :  The  Battle  of  Fort  Moultrie,  Fought  and  Won  June  25, 
1776 ;  2.  Sergeants  Jasper  and  Newton  rescuing  American 
Prisoners  from  a  Squad  of  British,  near  Savannah,  Ga. 

South  Wall:  1.  Portrait  of  Hon.  Henry  Latimer,  M.D., 
by  Clazvson  S.  Hammitt ;  2.  Portrait  of  Hon.  James  Latimer, 
by  Hammitt  (both  presented  by  Mary  R.  Latimer). 

In  the  E.  Corridor,  facing  the  E.  Grand  Stairway,  hangs 
The  Recall  of  Columbus,  by  Augustus  George  Heaton  (b. 
1844),  painted  in  1883,  and  reproduced  on  the  50c.  postage 
stamp  of  the  Columbian  series  of  1893. 

North  of  the  stairway  is  a  spacious  Lobby,  with  win- 
dows on  E.  overlooking  the  Plaza,  and  door  on  W.  opening 
into  the  gallery  reserved  for  Senators'  families  and  friends. 
This  lobbv  contains  a  number  of  interesting  portraits  and 
busts.  From  R.  to  L.,  beginning  on  S.  wall :  1.  Count  K. 
K.  Pulaski,  marble  bust,  by  Henry k  Dmochowski   (1810-63)  ; 

2.  Charles    Sumner,    bust,    by    Martin    Millmore     (1844-82); 

3.  Garibaldi,  bust,  by  Giuseppe  Martegana;  E.  Wall:  4. 
Zachary  Taylor,  bust,  Artist  Unknown;  5.  (above)  James  J. 
Garfield,  mosaic  portrait,  by  Antonio  Salviati  (1816-90),  best 
known  as  having  revived  the  making  of  Venetian  glass  at 
Murano,  i860)  6.  Aysh-ke-bah-ke-ko-shay,  "Flat-Mouth,"  a 
Chippewa  Chief,  bust,  by  Francis  Vincenti;  7.  (above)  Abra- 
ham  Lincoln,   mosaic  portrait,   by  Salviati;   8.  Be-sheck-kee, 

f !  Indian  marble  bust,  by  Vincenti;  N.  Wall :  9.  Tadeusz 
Kosciuszco,  marble  bust,  by  H.  D.  Saunders  (pseudonym  of 
Henryk   Dmochowski)  ;    10.  Gen.    John   A.    Dix,    portrait    by 


74  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Imogene  R.  M  or  ell  (d.  1908)  ;  Gen.  Dix  is  best  remembered 
for  his  famous  order,  "If  anyone  attempts  to  haul  down  the 
American  flag,  shoot  him  on  the  spot!"  11.  *The  Florida 
Case  before  the  Electoral  Commission,  Feb.  5th,  1877,  by 
Mrs.  Cornelia  Adele  Fassett  (1831-98),  painted  from  life 
sittings  in  1877-79  in  the  U.  S.  Supreme  Court  Room,  and 
portraying  a  session  of  the  Commission  appointed  to  decide 
the  disputed  Hayes-Tilden  Presidential  Election;  12.  Abra- 
ham Lincoln,  bust  by  Mrs.  Sarah  E.  Ames  (1817-1901)  ;  a 
replica  is  in  the  State  Capitol,.  Boston,  Mass. 

To  the  N.  of  this  lobby  is  a  smaller  Hall,  from  which 
a  Ladies'  Retiring  Room,  with  woman  attendant,  opens  on 
the  R.  This  Hall  contains  two  celebrated  paintings  by 
Thomas  Moran  (b.  1837)  :  E.  Wall,  The  Chasm  of  the  * 
Colorado;  W.  Wall,  The  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone; 
bought  by  the  Government  for  $10,000  each ;  S.  Wall,  Table 
Rock,  Niagara,  by  F.  Regis  Gignoux  (1816-82)  ;  Thomas 
Crawford,  marble  bust,  by  Tommaso  Gagliardi. 

A  noted  picture,  which  formerly  hung  in  this  room,  is 
The  First  Fight  of  Ironclads,  by  William  F.  Halsall  (b.  1841), 
representing  the  battle  between  the  Monitor  and  Merrimac. 
It  was  purchased  by  the  Government  in  1877,  at  a  cost  of 
$15,000,  and  formed  the  only  exception  to  the  rule  that  no 
reminder  of  the  Civil  War  should  be  displayed  in  the  Capi- 
tol. This -painting  is  now  (1922)  temporarily  in  storage  and 
not  on  exhibition. 

The  visitor  may  now  return  to  the  East  Stairs  (of  Ten- 
nessee marble)  ;  above  the  middle  landing  hangs  The  Battle  ♦ 
of  Lake  Erie,  by  William  Henry  Powell  (1824-79)  ;  this 
picture  represents  Commodore  Oliver  B.  Perry  transferring 
himself  and  his  flag,  while  under  fire,  from  his  disabled 
flagship,  the  Lawrence,  to  the  Niagara,  Sept.  13th,  1813.  The 
original  and  much  smaller  painting  was  executed  by  Powell 
in  1863  for  the  State  Capitol,  Ohio;  this  enlarged  replica 
was  ordered  by  Congress,  at  a  cost  of  $25,000.  It  is  said 
that  the  faces  of  the  sailors  were  copied  from  former  well- 
known  employees  about  the  Capitol. 

Facing  the  foot  of  the  staircase  is  a  Marble  statue  of  Ben- 
jamin Franklin,  by  Fliram  Powers  (1805-88),  the  cost  of 
which  was  $10,000. 

North  of  this  staircase,  on  the  main  floor,  the  E.  corri-      * 
dor  leads  to  a  handsome  hallway  forming  the  east  approach 
to  the   Senate   Chamber.     This   hall   contains   sixteen   *Fluted 


THE    CAPITOL  75 

Columns  of  Italian  marble,  supporting  a  ceiling  of  the  same. 
I  The  capitals  of  these  columns,  in  which  the  conventional 
acanthus  leaves  are  replaced  by  the  tobacco  leaf,  have  been 
cleverly  termed  the  "Americanized  Corinthian  order  of 
Architecture."  This  hallway  leads  to  the  eastern  Portico  of 
the  Senators'  Wing.  This  entrance  is  usually  closed  when 
Congress  is  not  in  Session.  If  open,  the  visitor  should  avail 
himself  of  the  opportunity  of  inspecting  the  *Senate  Bronze 
Doors,  without  the  necessity  of  climbing  the  outer  stair- 
case. 

These  doors  were  designed  by  Thomas  Crawford,  who 
also  modeled  the  figures  in  the  pediment  above  this  entrance. 
They   constitute   the    sculptor's    last    work,    for   which    he   re- 

1  ceived  $6000.  The  plaster  models,  executed  in  Rome  by 
William  H.  Rinehart,  cost  $8940,  while  the  casting  of  the 
doors  (weight  14,000  pounds),  by  James  T.  Ames  at  Chico- 
pee,  Mass.  (1868),  cost  $50,500.  It  was  the  first  casting  of 
the  kind  in  America.  Each  valve  of  this  door  consists  of 
three  panels  and  a  medallion.  The  panels  portray  events 
taken   from  the  Revolutionary  War  and  the  Life  of  Wash- 

,    ington : 

1.  Right    or    North    Door:      a.  Upper    panel:      Death    of 
I    General    Warren    at    the    Battle    of    Bunker    Hill,    1775 ;    b. 

Middle  panel :  The  rebuke  of  Gen.  Charles  Lee  by  General 
Washington  at  the  Battle  of  Monmouth,  N.  J.,  1778;  c. 
;  Lower  panel :  The  storming  of  the  redoubt  at  Yorktown  by 
Alexander  Hamilton,  1781 ;  Below :  d.  Medallion  symboliz- 
ing War :  Conflict  between  a  Hessian  soldier  and  a  New 
Jersey   farmer. 

2.  Left  or  South  Door:  (from  bottom  upward):  e. 
Medallion    symbolizing    Peace    and    Agriculture ;    f .      Lower 

j    panel :      Washington    passing   through    an    Arch   of    Flowers, 

Trenton,  N.  J.,  on  his  way  to  his  Inauguration  in  New 
j  York,  1789;  g.  Middle  panel:  Washington  taking  the  Oath 
!    of    Office,    administered   by    Chancellor    Livingston ;    h.    Upper 

panel :    Laying  the   Corner   Stone  of  the   Capitol,   Sept.    18th, 

1793- 

Above   the   Portico   are   two   reclining   female   figures   of 

marble  in  high  relief  symbolizing  (R.)  Justice;   (L.)   History. 

These  also  were  designed  by  Crazvford  and  executed  in 
I    Italy,    the   sculptor   receiving  $3000. 

From  the  Senate  Vestibule,  N.  W.  cor.,  the  visitor  enters 
I    the  Public  Reception  Room,  an   ornate  apartment  consisting 


76  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

of  two  almost  square  alcoves,  both  profusely  decorated  by 
Briimidi.  In  the  northern  alcove  the  ceiling  contains  four 
panels,  each  occupied  by  a  symbolic  female  figure:  N., 
Freedom,  holding  American  shield,  fasces  and  the  Declara- 
tion of  Independence;  W.,  War,  with  sword  and  shield  and 
starred  helmet  surmounted  by  tri-colored  plume;  S.,  Agri- 
culture, with  fruits  of  the  Harvest;  E.,  Peace,  bearing  an 
olive  branch. 

South  Alcove:  Note  on  ceiling,  central  group  of  three 
cupids  bringing  together  the  three  colors  of  the  National 
Mag.  In  the  corners  are  symbolized  four  virtues :  N.  E., 
Prudence,  studying  the  future  with  the  aid  of  a  mirror 
which  reflects  the  past;  N.  W.,  'Fortitude,  with  drawn 
sword ;  S.  W.,  Temperance,  holding  bridle  and  bit,  emblems 
of  restraint;  S.  E.,  Justice,  holding  scales.  On  the  S.  wall 
is  an  historic  painting  in  oils,  also  by  Brumidi,  representing 
^Washington  consulting  with  Two  Members  of  his  First 
Cabinet  (Jefferson,  Sec.  of  State  and  Hamilton,  Sec.  of  the 
Treasury). 

The  Room  of  the  S erg eant-at- Arms  adjoins  the  N. 
alcove  on  the  E.  Brumidi's  decorations  of  this  room  consist 
of :  I.  A  vivid  center-piece  on  the  ceiling  symbolizing  Re- 
construction, consisting  of  a  group  of  female  figures  wel- 
coming back  the  erring  sister ;  2.  On  the  four  walls,  under 
the  arches,  allegorical  designs  in  chiaroscuro,  imitating  alto- 
relievo:  E.,  Secession,  represented  by  the  breaking  of  the 
Fasces,  while  on  the  opposite  sides  lie  respectively  cotton  and 
corn,  the  rival  products  of  the  two  sections;  S.,  War,  with 
Engines  of  Strife;  W.,  The  Fasces  once  more  united,  with 
motto  E  Pluribus  Unum  and  eagle;  N.,  The  implements  of  * 
War  are  being  broken  and  exchanged  for  Peace. 

The  room  S.  of  the  Sergeant-at-Arms,  now  used  by  the 
Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia,  is  not  usually  open 
to  the  general  public;  but  some  obliging  attendant  will  some- 
times unlock  the  door  upon  request.  This  was  formerly  the 
Senate  Post  Office,  for  which  Brumidi  designed  the  follow- 
ing appropriate  frescoes  containing  symbolic  figures:  S., 
History,  holding  scroll ;  E.,  Geography,  with  globe ;  N., 
Transportation,  with  steam  engine ;  W.,  The  Telegraph, 
two  figures  holding  a  connecting  wire. 

From  the  Reception  Room  a  door  on  the  W.  opens  into 
a  private  corridor,  extending  along  the  N.  side  of  the  Senate 
Chamber,  and  opening  into  three  rooms  of  special  interest:    ^ 
the  Vice-President's   Room,   the    Senate   Retiring   Room   and 
the  President's  Room.     Formerly  these  rooms  could  be  seen, 


78  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON      ' 

while  Congress  was  in  Session,  only  by  card  from  a  Senator ; 
at  present  (1922)  they  are  open  to  the  public  during  the 
morning  hours. 

Entering  this  passage  we  reach  (First  door  on  R.)  the 
Vice-President's  Room.  This  chamber,  in  decoration  the 
plainest  of  the  Senate  series,  has  numerous  historic  associa- 
tions. Here  on  Nov.  22d,  1875,  Vice-President  Henry  S. 
Wilson  died;  and  here  also  Sept.  22,  1881,  in  the  presence 
of  General  Grant,  Garfield's  Cabinet,  Senators,  Representa- 
tives and  justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  Chester  A.  Arthur 
took  the  oath  of  office  administered  by  Chief  Justice  Waite. 

In  this  room  on  E.  wall  hang:  1.  Rembrandt  Peale's 
*Portrait  of  Washington  which,  in  1829,  was  exhibited  and 
much  admired  in  the  principal  cities  of  Europe.  Purchased 
by  the  United  States  in  1832  for  $2000;  2.  (L.)  Henry  I 
Wilson,  marble  bust  by  Daniel  Chester  French;  3.  Lafayette 
S.  Foster  (acting  Vice-President  during  Johnson's  term), 
marble  bust  by  Charles  Calverly   (1833-1914). 

The  much  admired  French  clock  was  acquired  during 
the  term  of  President  Polk;  the  book-case  on  the  W.  side 
dates  from  the  term  of  President  Buchanan.  The  closet 
in  the  S.  E.  cor.  contains  an  antique  mirror  purchased,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  by  John  Adams. 

Immediately  adjoining  the  Vice-President's  Room  on 
the  W.  is  the  Senate  Retiring  Room,  one  of  the  richest  and 
most  costly  apartments  in  the  Capitol.  It  consists  of  a  cen- 
tral chamber  and  two  vestibules,  the  former  being  38  ft- 
long,  2iy2  ft.  wide  and  19^2  ft.  high.  The  floor  is  of  marble 
mosaic;  the  walls,  where  not  adorned  with  large  mirrors, 
are  veneered  with  variegated  Tennessee  marble,  and  the 
panelled  marble  ceiling  is  supported  by  four  Corinthian  col- 
umns of  pure  white  Italian  marble, — thus  justifying  the 
popular  name  of  the  Marble  Room.  In  the  eastern  vestibule 
is  a  small  bronze  bust  of  Lincoln,  by  Albert  de  Grout. 

*The  President's  Room.  This  square  and  compara- 
tively small  apartment  is  one  of  the  show  places  of  the 
Capitol.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  large  mirrors,  and, 
like  the  ceiling,  are  covered  with  frescoes  by  Brumidi.  In 
this  room  it  has  been  the  custom  since  the  days  of  Andrew 
Johnson  (with  the  exception  of  Grover  Cleveland),  for  the 
President  to  sit  during  the  last  day  of  each  Congressional  Ses- 
sion for  the  purpose  of  signing  bills  of  an  urgent  nature. 

On  the  walls,  in  hexagonal  panels,  are  medallion  por- 
traits of  Washington's  First  Cabinet :  S.  wall,  Jefferson, 
Secretary    of    State    and    Osgood,    Postmaster    General;    E. 


THE    CAPITOL  79 

wall,  Henry  Knox,  Secretary  of  War,  and  Alexander  Hamil- 
ton, Secretary  of  the  Treasury;  W.  wall,  Edmund  Randolph, 
Attorney  General. 

On  the  S.  wall,  under  the  arch  of  the  ceiling,  is  a  por- 
trait of  Washington  (by  Brumidi  after  Rembrandt  Peale) 
with  a  reclining  female  figure  on  each  side :  L.,  Peace  ;  R., 
Victory  holding  shield  with  inscription,  "Boston,  Trenton, 
Princeton,    Monmouth,   Yorktown." 

The  ceiling  decorations  consist  of  four  symbolic  groups : 
N.,  Religion,  veiled  and  holds  a  Bible;  W,  Legislature, 
who  holds  a  sword  and  teaches  children  the  Constitution ; 
S.,  Liberty,  holding  a  shield  and  fasces;  E.,  Executive  Au- 
thority, holding  a  sceptre  and  book  of  statutes.  Between 
these  are  four  corner-pieces,  containing  fresco  portraits : 
S.  E.,  Columbus  (Discovery)  ;  N.  W.,  Americus  Vespucius 
(Exploration)  ;  S.  W.,  Benjamin  Franklin  (History)  ;  N.  E., 
William  Brewster   (Religion). 

In  the  southwest  corner  is  a  bronze  bust  of  McKinley, 
by  Emma  C.  Guild.  In  this  room,  Dec.  18th,  1876,  King 
Kalakaua  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  had  an  audience.  An 
announcement  of  his  presence  was  made  in  the  Senate,  a 
recess  was  promptly  taken,  and  all  the  Senators  were  indi- 
vidually presented  to  the  King. 

f.     The  Ground  Floor 

We  have  now  reached  the  Western  Corridor,  which  leads 
back  to  the  Western  Grand  Staircase.  Here  we  -may  descend, 
if  we  wish,  to  the  ground  floor  of  the  Capitol,  a  portion  of 
the  building  usually  overlooked  by  tourists,  and  habitually 
omitted  by  the  official  guides.  Pictorially,  however,  it  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  sections  of  the  whole  structure,  since 
here  through  a  space  of  ten  years  Brumidi,  then  in  his  prime, 
exercised  his  fertile  imagination  and  versatile  brush  in 
adorning  the  corridors  and  many  of  the  Committee  rooms, 
with  vivid  frescoes.  His  work  has  suffered  from  neglect, 
and  from  too  lavish  an  application  of  soap  and  sand  (al- 
though luckily  the  cleaner's  zeal  usually  ceased  within  easy 
arm-reach).  In  a  few  Committee  rooms  the  frescoes  have 
been  painted  out  to  satisfy  the  simple  taste  of  certain  Sena- 
tors, partial  to  blank  walls.  For  example :  in  what  was 
once  the  room  of  the  Committee  on  Territories  (N.  corridor, 
first  door  on  L.,  east  of  W.  corridor)  the  only  surviving 
memorial  of  what  was  once  a  lavishly  decorated  room  is 
the  large  and  richly  decorated  bronze  chandelier  embellished 
with  buffaloes,  Indian  heads  and  various  other  symbols  of 
the  far  West. 


THE    CAPITOL  Si 

West  Basement  Corridor,  S.  to  N. :  In  lunettes  above 
the  two  entrances  to  the  Interstate  Commerce  Committee 
Room  (formerly  Indian  Affairs)  are  frescoes  representing: 
i.  Columbus  and  an  Indian  maiden;  2.  Las  Casas,  mis- 
sionary to  the  Indians.  Opposite  (W.  side),  in  lunette  above 
door  to  Committee  on  Rules,  Authority  consults  the  Written 
Law,  while  Justice  holds  the  Scales.  Beyond,  above  door  to 
Committee  on  Appropriations,  lunette  showing  America  sur- 
rounded with  cannon  and  stacked  arms.  At  intervals  along 
the  walls  are  medallion  portraits,  including  John  Hancock, 
Francis  Hopkinson,  Robert  R.  Livingston,  John  Jay,  Roger 
Sherman,  Charles  Thomson,  Robert  Morris  and  Charles  Car- 
roll. 

The  room  of  the  Committee  on  Appropriations  (origi- 
nally Military  Affairs)  contains  five  historic  frescoes:  W. 
wall,  1.  The  Boston  massacre,  1770;  S.  wall,  2.  The  Battle 
of  Lexington,  1775;  3.  Washington  at  Valley  Forge,  1778;  E. 
wall,  4.  The  Storming  of  Stony  Point  by  Anthony  Wayne, 
1779;  N.  wall,  5.  The  Death  of  General  Wooster  during  the 
British  Invasion  of  Connecticut,  1777. 

The  northern  end  of  the  west  corridor  has  come  to  be 
known  as  the  Pompeiian  Corridor,  because  here  Brumidi  imi- 
tated, not  only  the  designs,  but  the  distinctive  coloring  of 
Pompeiian  frescoes.  The  visitor  should  note  the  undimmed 
brilliance  of  the  deep  reds  and  blues. 

North  Corridor,  W.  to  E.  The  wall  medallions  in  this 
corridor  include:  Thomas  Jefferson,  Benjamin  Franklin, 
Richard  Montgomery,  Joseph  Warren,  Thomas  Mifflin,  Silas 
Deane,  Horatio  Gates,  Israel  Putnam,  Jonathan  Trumbull 
and  Daniel  Webster.  On  N.  side  are  two  lunettes :  1. 
Above  entrance  to  Committee  on  Patents  (originally  Terri- 
tories Room)  represents:  Negotiations  for  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  (April  30th,  1803)  ;  2.  Over  last  door  on  L.  (origi- 
nally Committee  on  Foreign  Relations)  fresco  copied  from 
West's  painting,  "Signing  the  Articles  of  Peace,  1782,"  con- 
taining portraits  of  Richard  Oswald,  signer  for  Great  Britain ; 
John  Adams,  Benjamin  Franklin,  John  Jay  and  Henry  Lau- 
rens, for  the  United  States. 

The  north  corridor  is  intersected  midway  by  a  central 
corridor,  at  the  N.  end  of  which  are  fresco  portraits  of 
Kent,  Livingston  and  Story. 

The  north  corridor  opens  at  E.  end  into  a  small  pa- 
vilion. Over  the  door  of  Committee  on  Foreign  Relations 
(formerly  Post  Offices  and  Post  Roads)  is  Benjamin  Frank- 
lin,   father    of    the    postal    system,    seated    in    his    laboratory. 


82  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Above  second  door  is  Fulton,  inventor  of  the  steamboat;  and 
diagonally  opposite  is  John  Fitch,  a  forerunner  of  Fulton, 
working  on  a  model  of  a  steamboat. 

The  above  form  the  more  noteworthy  details  in  these  frescoed 
passages,  in  which  every  wall-space  is  overlaid  with  arabesques,  tracer- 
ies of  vines,  foliage  and  fruit;  animals  and  birds;  allegorical  figures 
and  landscapes.  From  the  northern  corridor,  private  staircases  ascend 
to  the  Senate  Lobby.  The  richly  wrought  bronze  stair-rails,  and  the 
corresponding  ones  in  the  House  basement,  were  modeled  by  Charles 
Baudin,  a  French  sculptor.  Some  details,  such  as  the  eagles,  deer  and 
cherubs,  were  designed  by  Brumidi.  They  were  cast  by  Archer, 
Warner,  Miskey  &  Co.  at  a  cost  of  over  $22,000. 

Returning  to  the  central  corridor,  we  may  proceed  S., 
passing,  on  L.,  the  public  restaurant  (p.  7).  To  the  E.  of 
the  small  rotunda  (p.  64)  is  the  entrance  to  the  Senate  Law 
Library,  containing  a  bas-relief  group  by  Franzoni,  and 
a    marble    bust    of    Justice    Story,    by    W.    W.    Story    (1819- 

95). 

Continuing  SM  we  enter,  directly  beneath  the  great  Ro- 
tunda, the  so-called  Crypt,  a  circular  chamber  with  a  colon- 
nade of  forty  Doric  columns,  modeled  after  the  Temple  at 
Paestum.  These  columns  are  surmounted  by  groined  arches 
supporting  the  floor  above.  The  exact  center  of  the  Capitol 
building  is  indicated  by  a  star  in  the  pavement.  To  the  east 
is  the  Suffrage  Group  presented  by  American  women :  A 
rough  marble  pedestal  surmounted  by  busts  of  Lucretia  Mott, 
Susan  B.  Anthony  and  Elizabeth  Cady  Stanton,  the  work  of 
Adelaide  Johnson.  The  sub-basement,  below  this  crypt,  was 
originally  planned  to  contain  the  tomb  of  George  Washington. 
Since  1865  it  has  been  the  receptacle  of  the  bier  used  to  sustain 
the  coffin  of  Abraham  Lincoln  and  other  notable  Americans 
who  have  lain  in  state  in  the  Capitol. 

Immediately  S.  of  the  crypt  are  the  offices  of  the  Chief 
Clerk  of  the  House.  In  the  N.  E.  room  of  this  suite  was 
situated  the  Washington  terminus  of  Morse's  first  telegraph 
line,  connecting  Washington  with  the  Railway  station  on 
Pratt  St.,  Baltimore.  Here,  on  May  24th,  1842,  Miss  Annie 
G.  Ellsworth,  daughter  of  Henry  L.  Ellsworth,  then  Com- 
missioner of  Patents,  sent  the  first  telegraphic  message, 
'What  hath  God  wrought!"  The  strip  of  paper  on  which 
the  telegraphic  characters  of  this  message  were  printed  is 
now  in  the  Athenaeum,  Hartford,  Conn. 

The  basement  of  the  House  Wing  is  traversed  by  a  noble 
hallway,  flanked  by  thirty  monolithic  Corinthian  columns,  the 
capitols  of  which  are  said  to  have  been  modeled  from  those 
of  the  Temple  of  the  Winds,  at  Athens,  with  this  modifica- 


THE    CAPITOL  83 

tion,  that  the  upper  order  of  acanthus  leaves  has  been  re- 
placed by  American  tobacco. 

The  only  Committee  room  of  special  interest  in  the 
House  basement  is  that  of  the  ^Committee  on  Agriculture, 
S.  of  the  W.  public  staircase.  The  frescoes  in  this  room 
(1855)  constitute  the  first  work  done  by  Brumidi  in  the  Cap- 
itol. On  the  ceiling  are  the  Four  Seasons  :  Spring  symbol- 
ized by  Flora,  Summer  by  Ceres,  Autumn  by  Bacchus,  Winter 
by  Boreas.  On  E.  wall :  Cincinnatus  called  from  the  Plough 
to  become  Dictator  of  Rome.  W.  wall :  Putnam  called  from  the 
Plough  to  join  the  Revolution.  S.  wall:  Above,  medallion  of 
Washington  ;  below,  Harvest  Scene  in  Olden  Times.  N.  wall : 
Above,  medallion  of  Jefferson;  below,  Harvest  Scene  with 
Modern   Implements. 

g.     The  House  Wing 

Ascending  the  western  staircase  to  the  main  floor  of  the 
House  of  Representatives,  we  reach  a  series  of  corridors 
similar  to  those  in  the  Senate  Wing  (p.  69),  with  doors 
on  the  outer  sides  opening  upon  Committee  rooms,  and 
those  on  the  inner  sides  giving  access  to  the  floor  of  the 
House.  As  in  the  case  of  the  Senate,  the  floor  is  now  closed 
to  visitors,  unless  accompanied  by  a  member  (a  description 
O'f  the  House  as  seen  from  the  Visitors'  Gallery  is  given 
on  p.  85). 

Proceeding  S.,  on  W.  corridor,  we  reach,  on  L.,  what  is 
collectively  known  as  the  Speaker's  Lobby.  It  consists  of 
a  spacious  and  ornamental  parlor,  extending  along  the  S. 
side  of  the  House  Wing,  together  with  the  corridor  separ- 
ating it  from  the  House.  This  corridor  contains  a  collec- 
tion of  portraits  of  former  Speakers  of  the  House,  as 
follows  : 

South  Wall  (west  vestibule),  1.  Nathaniel  Macon,  N.  C. 
(1758-1837),  Speaker,  7th,  8th,  and  9th  Congresses,  by  R.  D. 
Gauley;  2.  Michael  C.  Kerr,  Ind.  (1827-76),  Speaker,  44th 
Congress,  by  Charles  A.  Gray   (1857 ). 

South  Wall  (Lobby  corridor),  3.  James  G.  Blaine,  Me. 
(1830-93),  Speaker,  41st,  42d  and  43d  Congresses,  by  Free- 
man Thorp  (1844-  )  ;  4.  Schuyler  Colfax,  Ind.  (1823-85), 
Speaker,  38th,  39th  and  40th  Congresses,  by  Freeman  Thorp; 
5.  William  Pennington  (1796-1862),  Speaker,  36th  Congress, 
by  Joseph  Lauber  (1885 — — )  ;  6.  James  L.  Orr,  S.  C.   (1822- 

72),  Speaker  35th  Congress,  by  Esther  Edmonds  (1888- ); 

7.  Linn  Boyd,  Ky.  (1800-59),  Speaker  32d  and  33d  Con- 
gresses, by  Stanley  Grant  Middleton   (1852 )  ;  8.  Howell 


84  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Cobb,  Ga.  (1815-68),  Speaker  31st  Congress,  by  Lucy  Stanton 

(1875 );    9-    John    W.    Davis,    Ind.    (1799-1859),    Speaker 

29th  Congress,  by  William  D.  Murphy  (1834)  ',  10.  John 
Winston  Jones,  Va.    (1791-1848),   Speaker  28th   Congress,  by 

James  B.  Sword  (1839 );  11.  John  White,  Ky.   (1805-45), 

Speaker,    27th    Congress,    by    Gerard    Barry    ( 1864 )  ;    12. 

Robert  M.  T.  Hunter,  Va.  (1809-87),  Speaker,  26th  Con- 
gress, by  Richard  N.  Brooks  (1865-1920)  ;  13.  James  K.  Polk, 
Tenn.  (1795- 1849),  Speaker,  24th  and  25th  Congresses,  by 
Rebecca  Polk;  14.  John -Bell,  Tenn.  (1797-1869),  Speaker, 
24th  Congress,  first  Session,  by  Willie  Betty  Newman;  15. 
Andrew  Stevenson,  Va.  (1784-1857),  Speaker,  21st,  22d  and 
23d  Congresses,  by  Spencer  Baird  Nichols;  16.  Philip  P. 
Barbour,  Va.  (1782-1841),  Speaker,  17th  Congress,  by  Kate 
Flournoy  Edwards  (1877 ). 

South  Wall  (E.  vestibule)  :  17.  Langdon  Gheeves,  S.  C. 
(1776-1857),  Speaker,  13th  Congress,  by  Hal  Morrison. 

■North  Wall  (E.  vestibule)  :  18.  Jonathan  Dayton,  N.  J. 
(1760-1824),  Speaker,  4th  Congress,  by  Henry  Harrison 
(1844 )• 

North  Wall  (Lobby  corridor)  :  19.  Henry  Clay,  Ky. 
(1777-1852),  Speaker  I2th-i8th  Congresses,  by  Giuseppe 
Fagnani  (11819-73);  20.  John  G.  Carlisle,  Ky.  (1835-1910), 
Speaker,  48th,  49th  and  50th  Congresses,  by  Ellen  Day  Hale 

(1855 );     21.     Robert     C.     Winthrop,     Mass.      (1809-94), 

Speaker,  30th  Congress,  by  Daniel  Huntington  (1816-1906)  ; 
22.  John  W.  Taylor,  N.  Y.  (1784-1854),  Speaker,  16th  (second 
Session)  and  17th  Congresses,  by  Caroline  L.  Ransom  (1838- 
1910)  ;  23.  Thomas  B.  Reed  (1839-1902),  Speaker,  54th  and 
55th  Congresses,  by  John  S.  Sargent  (1856 — — )  ;  24.  Nathan- 
iel  P.   Banks,   Mass.    (1816-94),    Speaker,   34th   Congress,   by 

Robert    William    Vonnoh    (1858 )  ;   25.  Charles    F.    Crisp, 

Ga.  (1845-96),  Speaker  53d  Congress,  by  Robert  Hinckley; 
26.  Frederick  Augustus  Muhlenberg,  Penn.  (1750-1841), 
Speaker  1st  and  3d  Congresses,  by  Samuel  B.  Waugh  (1814- 
85)  ;  27.  Samuel  J.  Randall,  Penn.  (1828-90),  Speaker  44th 
(second  Session),  45th  and  46th  Congresses,  by  William  A. 
Greaves  (1847-1900)  ;  28.  Galusha  A.  Grow,  Penn.  (1823-1907). 
Speaker,  37th  Congress,  by  Greaves;  29.  David.  Bremner 
Henderson,  Iowa  (1840-1906),  Speaker,  56th  and  57th  Con- 
gress,    by     Freeman     Thorp;     30.     Warren     Kiefer,      Ohio 

(1836 ),    Speaker,    47th    Congress,    by    Charles   A.    Gray; 

31.  Joseph  B.  Varnum,  Mass.  (1750-1821),  Speaker,  10th 
and  nth  Congresses,  by  Charles  L.  Elliott  (1812-68)  ;  32. 
Jonathan  Trumbull,   Conn.    (1710-85),   Speaker  2d   Congress, 


THE    CAPITOL  85 

by  Henry  Ives  Thompson  (1840-1906)  ;  33.  Theodore  Sedg- 
wick, Mass.  (1746-1813),  Speaker  6th  Congress,  by  Edgar 
Parker,  after  Stuart. 

In  the  adjoining  Lobby  Parlor,  hanging  on  the  N.  and  S. 
walls  respectively,  are  two  large  paintings  by  Albert  Bier- 
stadt  (1830-1902)  :  1.  Entrance  into  Monterey;  2.  Discovery 
of  the  Hudson.  (These  formerly  hung  in  the  Hall  of  Repre- 
sentatives.) Also  on  N.  wall  are  the  following  portraits: 
1.  (W.  end)  Joseph  G.  Cannon,  by  William  T.  Smcdley  (1858- 
1920)  ;  2.   (E.  end)   Champ  Clark,  by  Boris  Gordon. 

Returning  to  the  western  staircase  (which,  like  the  east- 
ern staircase  of  this  Wing,  has  steps  of  white  marble,  with 
balustrade  and  wainscoting;  of  variegated  Tennessee  marble) 
we  pass  (facing  foot  of  staircase)  a  bronze  bust  of  Be-Sheck- 
Kee,  a  Chippewa  Chief,  modeled  by  Joseph  Lasalle,  from 
original  marble  by  Francis  Vincenti.  Opposite,  on  wall 
above  landing  and  occupying  the  entire  width,  is  the  widely 
known  mural  painting,  *"Westward  the  Course  of  Empire 
Takes  Its  Way,"  by  Emanuel  Leutse  (1816-68).  The  impor- 
tance of  this  painting,  undeniably  fine  though  it  is,  was  much 
exaggerated  in  the  earry  years  after  its  acquirement.  As  late 
as  1869  one  enthusiastic  critic  asserted,  "This  painting  is. 
the  greatest  work  of  art  in  the  possession  of  the  Government^ 
and  one  of  the  grandest  in  the  world." 

The  scene  represents  a  train  of  emigrants  crossing  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. From  the  summit  of  the  range  which  they  have  reached,  a  glo- 
rious view  stretches  out  to  the  westward.  The  title  is  borrowed  from 
Bishop    Berkeley.      Leutze    received    $20,000    for   this   painting. 

Below  Leutze's  painting  is  a  long,  narrow  fresco,  also 
by  Leutze,  representing  the  Golden  Gate  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. In  the  borders  (on  N.  and  S.  walls)  are  portraits  of 
Daniel  Boone,  the  pioneer  of  the  southwest,  and  Captain 
William  Clark,  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition  to  the 
Columbia,  1803-06.  Opposite  (second  floor)  is  a  portrait 
of  Chief  Justice  John  Marshall,  copy  by  Richard  Norris 
Brooke    (1847 ),    from   original  by   W.  D.   Washington. 

To  reach  the  visitors'  galleries  we  turn  left  to  N.  corridorv 
Here  the  doors  on  our  right  open  respectively  into:  1.  Mem- 
bers' Card  Gallery;  2.  Ladies'  Gallery;  3.  Gentlemen's  Gallery;. 
4.  Ladies'  Gallery;  5.  Members'  Family  Gallery.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  gallery  contains  reservations  for  the  Dip- 
lomatic Corps  and  for  members  of  the  Press,  the  latter  being 
on  the  S.  side,  directly  above  the  Speaker's  chair. 

The  Hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  a  rectangular 
chamber,  slightly  larger  than  that  of  the  Senate  Wing,  measur- 


86 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


THE  CAPITOL  87 

ing:  length  139  ft.,  width  93  ft,  height  36  ft.  The  ceiling  is 
of  cast  iron,  the  central  portion  being  filled  with  glass  panels, 
forming  a  large  sky-light,  and  decorated  with  the  coats-of- 
arms  of  the  different  states  and  territories.  The  designs  for 
this  ceiling  were  made  by  Johannes  Adam  Oertel  (1823-1909). 
The  Speaker's  desk  occupies  a  raised  position  against  the 
southern  wall.  To  his  left  sits  the  Doorkeeper,  and  to  his 
right  the  Sergeant-at-Arms,  whose  symbol  of  authority  is  the 
Mace,  which,  when  the  House  is  in  session,  occupies  a  marble 
pedestal  to  the  Speaker's  right. 

The  Mace  resembles  the  fasces  of  ancient  Rome,  and  consists  of  a 
bundle  of  black  rods  bound  together  with  silver  bands.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  eagle  resting  on  a  globe,  both  of  silver.  The  Sergeant- 
at-Arms  must  carry  this  Mace  whenever  executing  the  commands  of 
the  Speaker.  When  the  House  is  in  committee  of  the  whole  the  Mace 
is  placed  upon  the  floor.  This  symbol  of  authority  has  been  used 
uninterruptedly  since  its  adoption  by  the  House  in  the  First 
Congress. 

To  R.  and  L.  of  the  Speaker's  desk  are  full  length  por- 
traits :  1.  Washington  by  Vanderlyn,  after  Stuart;  2.  Lafay- 
ette, by  Ary  Scheffer  (1797-1858).  The  latter  was  presented 
to  Congress  by  the  artist  in  1825.  At  W.  end  of  S.  wall  is  a 
large  fresco  by  Brumidi,  depicting  an  incident  at  Yorktown, 
"Cornwallis  suing  for  Cessation  of  Hostilities  under  Flag  of 
Truce."  This  painting,  admittedly  one  of  Brumidi's  poorest 
works,  is  one  of  the  very  few  which  he  chose  to  sign.  It  was 
the  artist's  personal  gift  to  Congress. 

Opposite  the  Speaker's  desk,  over  the  main  entrance  to 
the  House,  is  the  famous  bronze  clock  surmounted  by  fig- 
ures of  a  Pioneer  and  an  Indian,  modeled  by  William  H. 
Rinehart   (1825-74). 

From  the  Visitors'  Gallery  we  continue  E.  to  the  East 
Gallery  Corridor  and  East  Staircase.  Opposite  stairs,  on  W. 
wall,  are  three  portraits :  in  center,  *Henry  Clay,  by  John 
Neagle  (dated  1843)  ;  on  L.,  Gunning  Bradford,  Jr.,  by 
Charles  Wilson  Peale;  on  R.,  Charles  Carroll  of  Carrollton, 
by  Chester  Harding  (1792-1866). 

Over  stair  Landing,  east  wall,  hangs  a  large  painting  by 
Frank  B.  Carpenter  (1830-1900),  "The  Signing  of  the 
Proclamation  of  Emancipation,"  by  President  Lincoln,  Septem- 
ber 22d,  1862. 

The  figures,  representing  President  Lincoln  and  his  Cabinet,  are  all 
portraits.  They  are  grouped  as  follows,  beginning  from  the  left:  1. 
Edwin  M.  Stanton,  Secretary  of  War;,  2.  Salmon  P.  Chase,  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury;  3.  Abraham  Lincoln;  4.  Gideon  Welles,  Secretary  of 
the  Navy;  5.  William  H.  Seward,  Secretary  of  State;  6.  Caleb  B. 
Smith,  S-ecretary  of  the  Interior;  7.  Montgomery  Blair,  Postmaster- 
General;  8.  Howard  Bates,  Attorney-General. 


88  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

In  Main  Floor  Corridor,  W.  wall,  facing  stairs,  is  a  mar- 
ble statue  of  *Thomas  Jefferson,  by  Hiram  Powers  (cost, 
$10,000).  Turning  S.,  we  reach  the  East  Vestibule  of  the 
House  Wing,  at  the  entrance  to  which  (east  end)  are  the 
second  pair  of  Crawford  Bronze  Doors  (compare  p.  75). 
The  designs  for  these  doors,  left  unfinished  at  Crawford's 
death  in  1857,  were  completed  by  William  H.  Rinehart,  who 
also  made  the  plaster  models.  They  were  cast  by  M.  H. 
Mossman,  of  Chicopee,  Mass. 

The  sculptures  comprise  six  panels  and  two  medallions, 
the  subjects  being  as  follows: 

Left  Door,  Upper  Panel:  Massacre  of  Wyoming,  July,  1778;  Middle 
Panel:  Battle  of  Lexington,  April  19,  1775;  Lower  Panel:  Presentation 
of  Flags  to  Gen.  William  Moultrie  for  his  defence  of  Sullivan's  Island, 
Charleston  Harbor,  June  28,  1776;  Medallion:  Death  of  General  Mont- 
gomery, in  attack   on   Quebec,   Dec,  31,    1775. 

Right  Door,  Upper  Panel:  Declaration  of  Independence,  July  4, 
1776;  Middle  Panel:  Paris  Treaty  of  Peace  between  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain,  Sept.  3,  1783;  Lower  Panel:  Washington's  Farewell 
to  his  Officers  in  New  York,  Dec.  4,  1783;  Medallion:  Benjamin  Franklin 
in  his  Study. 

Returning  to  North  Corridor,  we  pass  at  N.  E.  corner  a 
Committee  Room  which  formerly,  when  devoted  to  Military 
Affairs,  contained  a  collection  of  fifteen  paintings  of  famous 
American  Fortifications,  by  Col.  Seth  Eastman.  These  paint- 
ings were  removed  about  fifteen  years  ago  to  the  new  Military 
Affairs  Committee  Room,  in  the  Senate  Office  Building, 
Room  451   (p.  365). 

The  north  passage  leading  from  the  House  Wing  to  the 
central  building  contains  a  branch  of  the  Western  Union 
Telegraph  Co.  Note  at  N.  and  S.  ends  of  this  passage,  on 
sides  of  entrance  arches,  four  medallion  frescoes  by  Brumidi, 
containing  the  only  examples  of  the  artist's  many  landscapes 
which  even  the  casual  visitor  readily  identifies;  S.  end  (R.) 
Washington's  Tomb;  (L.)  The  Washington  Monument;  N. 
end  (R.)  Mount  Vernon;  (L.)  Arlington. 

From  here  we  enter  at  once  Statuary  Hall : 

h.     Statuary  Hall 

This  hall,  which  is  still  essentially  the  same  as  designed 
and  reconstructed  by  Latrobe  after  the  partial  destruction 
of  the  Capitol  by  the  British,  was  until  1859  the  House  of 
Representatives.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  earlier  House  of 
Representatives  as  first  planned  by  Thornton,  which  differed 
from  Latrobe's  design  in  being  an  oblong  parallelogram.  In 
its  time  it  was  considered  the  most  artistic  room  in  the  Capi- 
tol,   and   it   is   said  that   during   the   burning   of   the   Capitol, 


THE     CAPITOL  89 

one  of  the  British  officers  remonstrated  against  the  destruction 
of  so  beautiful  a  room.  The  structure  as  it  now  stands  is 
semi-circular,  with  a  diameter  of  96  ft.,  and  with  a  parallel- 
ogram on  the  S.  side  73  x  35  ft.  Its  height  to  the  top  of  the 
entablature  is  35  ft.  and  to  the  apex  of  the  domed  ceiling 
57  ft.  Its  semi-circular  colonnade  is  supported  on  14  mono- 
lithic Corinthian  columns  of  Breccia  of  Potomac  variegated 
marble,  with  capitals  of  Italian  marble  modeled  from  the 
monument  of  Lysicrates.  Eight  other  similar  columns  form 
a  screen  on  the  southern  side  and  support  a  lofty  arch  adorned 
with  an  eagle,  said  to  have  been  sculptured  from  life,  the 
work  of  an  Italian  named  Valperti,  whose  subsequent  suicide 
was  attributed  to  chagrin  at  the  unfavorable  criticism  made 
of  his  only  art  contribution  to  the  Capitol.  The  original 
paneled  ceiling  of  the  dome  and  the  surmounting  cupola, 
adapted  from  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  was  the  work  of  another 
young  Italian,  Bonani,  who  died  soon  after  their  completion. 
The  ceiling,  however,was  rebuilt  in  1901,  and  none  of  Bonani's. 
work  remains.  Beneath  the  arch,  just  above  the  position  occu- 
pied hy  the  Speaker's  desk,  is  a  plaster  model  of  Liberty  pro- 
claiming Peace,  by  Enrico  Causici.  Opposite,  above  the  door 
opening  from  the  Rotunda,  stands  the  historic  *Clock, 
emblematic  of  the  Flight  of  Time,  the  design  of  which  is 
said  to  have  been  drawn  by  Latrobe.  It  bears  the  signature, 
"Carlo  Franzoni,  1819."  The  central  figure,  symbolizing  the 
Genius  of  History,  was  modeled  from  a  daughter  of  Giuseppe 
Franzoni.  She  stands  erect  in  a  winged  Chariot  of  Progress 
which  is  rolling  over  a  globe  encircled  by  a  belt  bearing  the 
signs  of  the  zodiac.  The  wheel  of  the  chariot  forms  the  dial 
of  the  clock. 

This  room  is  rich  in  historic  associations ;  it  was  here 
that  President  Madison  took  the  oath  of  office ;  it  was  here 
that  Clay,  Webster,  the  younger  Adams,  Calhoun  and  Ran- 
dolf  and  a  host  of  other  leading  American  statesmen  first 
won  their  laurels  in  fiery  and  often  acrimonious  debates ; 
and  it  was  here  that  ex-President  John  Quincy  Adams,  in 
his  old  age,  fell  at  his  desk,  stricken  with  paralysis  during 
a  session  of  the  House.  The  spot,  in  the  S.  W.  portion 
of  the  room,  is  marked  in  the  pavement  by  a  small  circular 
brass  tablet  set  in  the  middle  of  the  12th  white  marble  square, 
counting  E.  from  the  statue  of  Stockton.  Adams  died  two 
days  later,  Feb.  23d,  1848,  in  the  adjoining  room  of  the 
Clerk  of  the  House. 

The  only  essential  differences  in  this  chamber  when  it  was  occu- 
pied   by    the    Representatives   are   as    follows:     the   Speaker's   chair   and 


9o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

table  stood  on  a  rostrum  raised  four  feet  from  the  floor,  and  back 
of  the  rostrum  were  crimson  curtains  suspended  from  the  marble 
pillars  supporting  the  great  arch.  The  mahogany  desks  and  comfortable 
armchairs  of  the  Representatives  were  placed  in  concentric  semi-circles, 
the  outer  row  being  enclosed  by  a  curtained  iron  railing  (constituting 
the  bar  of  the  House),  beyond  which  was  the  Members'  lobby.  Above 
this  lobby  was  a  visitors'  gallery  with  a  seating  capacity  of  about 
500.  One  division  of  this  gallery  was  reserved  for  ladies,  and  here 
hung  the  portraits  of  Washington  and  Lafayette,  which  have  since 
been  transferred  to  the  new  Hall  of  Representatives    (p.   87). 

The  old  Hall  of  the  House  was  established  as  Statuary 
Hall  by  act  of  Congress,  July  2d,  1864,  as  the  result  of  a 
suggestion  by  the  late  Senator  Justin  S.  Morrill,  then  Repre- 
sentative from  Vermont.     The  act  reads : 

"The  President  is  authorized  to  invite  each  and  all  the  States 
to  provide  and  furnish  statues  in  marble  or  bronze,  not  exceeding 
two  in  number  for  each  State,  of  deceased  persons  who  have  been 
citizens  thereof,  and  illustrious  for  their  historic  renown  or  from 
distinguished  civic  or  military  service,  such  as  each  State  shall  deter- 
mine to  be  worthy  of  this  national  commemoration;  and  when  so 
furnished,  the  same  shall  be  placed  in  the  old  hall  of  the  House  of 
Representatives, — which  is  hereby  set  apart  as  a  National  Statuary  Hall." 

It  will  be  noted  that  by  the  terms  of  this  act  the  selection 
of  the  citizens  to  be  commemorated  is  a  matter  for  the  respec- 
tive states  to  determine.  The  first  state  to  respond  was 
Rhode  Island  in  1869,  since  which  time  more  than  half  the 
states  have  contributed.  The  following  lists  the  collection  up 
to  1922: 

(Beginning  at  W.  of  entrance  and  continuing  from  R.  to 
L.)  :  1.  John  Stark  (1728-1822),  marble  statue  on  gray 
granite  pedestal  (1894),  gift  of  New  Hampshire;  Carl  H. 
Conrad   (1839 — ),  sculptor.     Cost  $4,482.11. 

Stark  led  a  regiment  at  Bunker  Hill.  At  Bennington,  where  he 
took  command  of  the  New  Hampshire  Militia,  he  made  tie  historic 
speech:  "See  there,  boys;  there  are  the  red-coats.  Before  night 
they   are   ours,    or   Molly    Stark   will   be   a   widow." 

2.  E.  Kirby  .Smith  (1824-93),  General  in  Confederate  Army: 
bronze  statue  on  gray  pedestal,  gift  of  Florida;  C.  A.  Pillars, 
sculptor;  3.  Samuel  Houston  (1703-1863),  President  of  the 
Texas  Republic  until  its  annexation  by  the  United  States  in 
1845:  marble  statue  on  pink-brown  marble  pedestal  (1904),  gift 
of  Texas;  Elxzabet  Ney  (183571907),  sculptor.  Cost  $4,500; 
4.  John  Winthrop  (1588-1649),  First  Governor  of  the  colony 
of  Massachusetts,  1629:  marble  statue  on  white  marble  pedes- 
tal (1875),  gift  of  Massachusetts;  Richard  S.  Greenough 
(1819-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $12,712.75;  5.  Oliver  P.  Morton 
(1823-77), Governor    of    Indiana,    1861-67:    marble    statue    on 


THE    CAPITOL  91 

gray  marble  pedestal  (1899),  gift  of  Indiana;  Charles  H. 
Niehaus  (1855-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $5,000;  6.  Lew  Wallace 
(1827-1905),  General  in  the  United  States  Army,  and  author 
of  Ben  Hnr:  marble  statue  on  gray  limestone  pedestal  (1909), 
gift  of  Indiana;  Andrew  O'Connor  (1874 — ),  sculptor.  Cos* 
$5,000;  7.  Francis  Harrison  Pierpont  (1814-99),  Governor  of 
West  Virginia,  1861 :  marble  statue  on  blue-veined  marble 
pedestal  (1903),  gift  of  West  Virginia;  Franklin  Simmons 
(1839-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $8,000;  8.  Henry  Mower  Rice  (1817- 
94),  First  United  States  Senator  from  Minnesota,  1857: 
marble  statue  on  granite  pedestal  (1909),  gift  of  Minnesota; 
Frederick  E.  Triebel  (1865-  ),  sculptor;  9.  John  Edward 
Kenna  (1848-93),  U.  S.  Senator:  marble  statue  on  dark 
veined  gray  marble  pedestal  (1901),  gift  of  West  Virginia; 
Alexander  Doyle  (1857-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $5,000;  10.  *Father 
James  Marquette  (1637-75)  :  marble  statue  on  pink  granite 
pedestal  (1895),  gift  of  Wisconsin;  Gaetano  Trentanove 
(1858 — ),  sculptor.     Cost  $8,000. 

The  inscription  on  the  pedestal  reads:  "Wisconsin's  Tribute.  James 
Marquette,  S.  J.,  who  witb  Louis  Joliet,  discovered  the  Mississippi 
River  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  Wisconsin,  June    17th,    1673." 

11.  Philip  Kearny  (1815-62),  Brig.-Gen.  in  the  Civil  War, 
who  died  at  the  Battle  of  Chantilly:  statue  in  bronze  (1875), 
gift  of  New  Jersey;  Henry  K.  Brown  (1814-86),  sculptor. 
Cost  $8088.20;  12.  James  Shields  (1810-79),  a  General  in 
trfe  Civil  War :  bronze  statue  on  dark  gray  granite  pedestal 
(1893),  gift  of  Illinois;  Leonard  W.  Volk  (1828-95),  sculptor. 
Cost  $9000;  13.  Richard  Stockton  (1730-81)  :  statue  in 
marble  on  marble  pedestal  (1886),  gift  of  New  Jersey; 
Henry  K.  Brown    (1814-86),  sculptor.     Cost  $7088.20. 

A  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  Died  of  hardships 
caused  by  imprisonment  by  the  British. 

14.  George  Clinton  (1739-1812),  First  Governor  of  New 
York.  Vice-President  two  terms  with  Jefferson  and  Madi- 
son:  bronze  statue  on  brown  marble  pedestal  (1873),  gift 
of    New   York;   Henry   K.    Brown,   sculptor.      Cost   $12,500; 

15.  William  King  (11768-1852),  First  Governor  of  Maine: 
marble  statue  on  marble  pedestal  (1877)  ;  Franklin  Simmons 
(1839-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $4000;  16.  Roger  Williams  (1599- 
1683),  Founder  of  the  colony  of  Rhode  Island:  marble 
statue  on  pink  granite  pedestal  (1870),  gift  of  Rhode  Island; 
Franklin  Simmons,  sculptor.  Cost  $8566 ;  17.  Nathanael 
Greene  (1742-86),  General  in  the  Revolutionarv  War:  marble 
statue  on  pink  granite  pedestal  (1869),  gift  of  Rhode  Island; 


92  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Henry  K.  Brown,  sculptor.  Cost  $8566;  18.  Jacob  Collamer 
(1792-1865),  Postmaster-General  under  Taylor:  marble  statue 
on  marble  pedestal  (1879),  gift  of  Vermont;  Preston  Powers 
(1843-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $6081.25;  19.  Jabez  Lamar 
Monroe  Curry  (1825-1903),  Statesman  and  educator;  United 
States  Minister  to  Spain,  1885-88:  marble  statue  on  marble 
pedestal  (1906),  gift  of  Alabama;  Dante  Sodini  (1858 — ), 
sculptor.  Cost  $4000;  20.  *Robert  Fulton  O1765-1815), 
seated  marble  figure  on  variegated  brown  marble  pedestal, 
holding  model  of  steamboat  (1881),  gift  of  Pennsylvania; 
Howard  Roberts  (1843-1900),  sculptor.  Cost  $7500;  21.  James 
P.  Clarke  (1854-1916),  U.  S.  Senator  from  Arkansas; 
marble  statue  on  marble  pedestal,  gift  of  Arkansss;  Pompeo 
Coppini,  sculptor;  22.  Robert  E.  Lee  (1807-70),  Con- 
federate General :  bronze  statue  on  white  marble  pedestal 
(1908),  gift  of  Virginia;  Edward  V.  Valentine  (1838—), 
sculptor.  Cost  $10,000;  23.  George  Washington  (1732-99): 
bronze  statue  on  blue-veined  marble  pedestal  (1908),  gift  of 
Virginia,  copy  of  original  marble  statue  by  Jean  Antoine 
Houdon,  in  State  Capitol,  Richmond,  Va.     Cost  $6000. 

The  original  was  ordered  by  the  Virginia  Assembly  through 
Thomas  Jefferson,  then  Minister  to  France.  Houdon  visited  Mt. 
Vernon  to  prepare  the  model.  Lafayette  pronounced  this  the  best 
representation  of  Washington  ever  made.  The  bronze  copy  was  cast 
from  a  plaster  model  executed  by  William  James  Hubard  (1810-62), 
who  lost  his  life  through  an  explosion  while  making  gunpowder  for 
the  Confederate  Government. 

24.  Uriah  M.  Rose  :  marble  statue  on  marble  pedestal,  gift 
of  Arkansas ;  F.  W .  Ruckstull,  sculptor ;  25.  William  Allen 
(1806-79),  Governor  of  Ohio  and  Member  of  Congress:  marble 
statue  on  marble  pedestal  (1887),  gift  of  Ohio;  Charles  Henry 
Niehaus  (1855-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $9500;  26.  John  J. 
Ingalls  (1833-1900),  U.  S.  Senator,  1873-91:  marble  statue 
on  warm  gray  marble  pedestal  (1904),  gift  of  Kansas;  Charles 
H.  Niehaus,  sculptor.  Cost  $6000;  27.  George  W.  Glick 
(1827-1911),  Governor  of  Kansas,  1883-85;  marble  on  white 
granite  pedestal,  gift  of  Kansas ;  Charles  Henry  Niehaus, 
sculptor;  28.  James  A.  Garfield  (1831-81)  :  marble  statue  on 
white  marble  pedestal  (1885),  gift  of  Ohio;  Charles  H. 
Niehaus,   sculptor.     Cost  $9500. 

The  bronze  piece  at  base  of  pedestal — sword,  wreath  and  palm — 
is  symbolical  of  War,  Victory  and  Peace. 

29.  Lewis  Cass  (1782-1866),  Secretary  of  War  and  also  Sec. 
of  State  under  Van  Buren;  Minister  to  France:  marble  statue 
on  brown  variegated  marble  pedestal  (1889),  gift  of  Michigan; 


THE    CAPITOL  93 

Daniel  C.  French  (1850-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $9848.13;  30. 
Zachariah  Chandler  (1813-79),  U.  S.  Senator:  marble 
statue  on  brown  variegated  marble  pedestal  (1913),  gift  of 
Michigan;  Charles  H.  Nichaus,  sculptor.  Cost  $0000;  31. 
John  C.  Calhoun  (1782-1850),  Sec.  of  War  and  Vice-Presi- 
dent: marble  statue  on  marble  pedestal  (1909),  gift  of  South 
Carolina;  Frederic  W.  Ruckstull  (1853-  ),  sculptor.  Cost 
$9000;  32.  George  L.  Shoup  (1836-1904),  U.  S.  Senator;  Last 
Territorial  and  First  State  Gov.  of  Idaho,  1889-90:  marble 
statue  on  marble  pedestal.  Seal  of  Idaho  in  bronze  (1909), 
gift   of    Idaho;   Fredericks  E.    Triebel,   sculptor.     Cost  $6000; 

33.  Ethan  Allen  (1739-89)  :  marble  statue  on  blue-veined 
marble  pedestal  (1875),  gift  of  Vermont;  Larkin  G.  Mead 
(1835-1910),  sculptor.     Cost  $5300; 

Allen  was  the  hero  of  Ticonderoga.  On  the  night  of  May  ioth, 
x775>  he  led  his  Green  Mountain  Boys  to  the  surprise  of  the  fortress 
and  demanded  its  surrender  "in  the  name  of  Jehovah  and  the  Con- 
tinental   Congress.'' 

34.  John  P.  G.  Muhlenberg  (1746-1807)  :  pure  statuary- 
marble  on  gray-veined  marble  pedestal  (1881),  gift  of  Penn- 
sylvania; Blanche  Nevin  (1841 — ),  sculptor.     Cost  $7500 ; 

Muhlenberg  was  an  Episcopal  clergyman,  who  received  a  Colonel's 
commission  from  Gen.  Washington  while  still  preaching  in  Virginia. 
One  Sunday  morning,  in  1775,  he  concluded  his  sermon  with  the 
following  stirring  words:  "There  is  a  time  for  all  things — a  time 
to  preach  and  a  time  to  pray;  but  there  is  also  a  time  to  fight,  and 
that  time  has  now  come!"  Thereupon  he  pronounced  the  benediction, 
and  throwing  off  his  gown  stood  revealed  in  full  military  uniform. 
Proceeding  to  the  door  of  the  church  he  ordered  the  drums  to  beat 
for  recruits.     Nearly  300  members  of  his  congregation   enlisted. 

35.  Jonathan  Trumbull  (1710-85)  :  marble  statue  on  gray- 
black  granite  pedestal  (1872),  gift  of  Connecticut;  Chauncey 
B.  Ives  (18-12-     ),  sculptor.    Cost  $7386.95; 

First  Gov.  of  Connecticut,  and  a  close  friend  of  Washington,  who 
"relied  on  him  as  one  of  his  main  pillars  of  support."  And  because 
of  his  skill  in  providing  sinews  of  war  gave  him  the  name  of  "Brother 
Jonathan,"  used  ever  since  as  a  nickname  of  the  United  States. 

36.  Roger  Sherman  (1721-93),  Member  of  committee  to  draft 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  afterwards  a  signer; 
marble  statue  on  gray-black  granite  pedestal  (1872),  gift  of 
Connecticut;  Chauncey  B.  Ives,  sculptor.  Cost  $7386.95;  37. 
Zebulon  B.  Vance  (1830-94),  State  Governor  and  U.  S. 
Senator,  1879,  '84,  '90 :  bronze  statue  on  gray  limestone  pedestal 
(1910),  gift  of  North  Carolina;  Gutson  B  or  glum  (1867-  ), 
sculptor;     38.  Robert    R.    Livingston     (1746-1813)  :    bronze 


THE     CAPITOL  95 

statue  on  brown  pedestal   (1874),  gift  of  New  York;  Erastus 

D.  Palmer   (1817-1904),  sculptor.     Cost  $13,000; 

He  was  one  of  the  committee  appointed  to  draft  the  Declaration 
of  Independence;  First  Chancellor  of  State;  later  Minister  to  France. 
He  completed  the  treaty  for  the  Louisiana  Purchase,  and  is  here 
represented   as   holding  that   document   in   his   hand. 

39.  James  Harlan  (1820-99),  U.  S.  Senator  and  Sec.  of 
Interior  under  Lincoln:  bronze  statue  (1909),  gift  of  Iowa; 
Nellie  V.  Walker  (1874-  ),  sculptor.  Cost  $5000;  40.  Samuel 
Jordan  Kirkwood  (1813-94),  U.  S.  Senator  and  Sec.  of  the 
Interior  under  Garfield :  bronze  statue  on  pink  granite  pedestal, 
gift  of  Iowa;  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie  (1847-1914),  sculptor;  41. 
Francis  P.  Blair  (1812-73),  General  in  the  Civil  War:  marble 
statue  on  gray  marble  pedestal  (1899),  gift  of  iMissouri;  Alex- 
ander Doyle  (1857 — ),  sculptor.  Cost  $6000;  42.  Thomas  H. 
Benton  (1782-11858),  U.  S.  Senator  and  a  distinguished  His- 
torian: marble  statue  on  gray  marble  pedestal  (1899),  gift  of 
Missouri;  Alexander  Doyle,  sculptor.   Cost  $6000;  43.  Frances 

E.  Willard  (1839-98),  founder  of  the  World's  Woman's 
Christian  Temperance  Union,  and  its  President,  1881-98 : 
marble  statue  on  white  marble  pedestal  (1905),  gift  of  Illi- 
nois; Helen  Famsworth  Mears  (1878-1916),  sculptor.  Cost 
$9000;  44.  John  Corrie,  M.D.  (1803-55),  Inventor  of  ice 
machine  and  mechanical  refrigerator :  marble  statue  on  lilac 
marble  pedestal,  gift  of  Florida ;  C.  A.  Pillars,  sculptor ;  45. 
John  Hanson  (1715-83),  President  of  the  Continental  Con- 
gress: bronze  statue  on  pink-gray  marble  pedestal  (1902), 
gift  of  Maryland;  Richard  E.  Brooks  (1865-IQ20) ,  sculptor. 
Cost  $12,000;  46.  Charles  Carroll,  of  Carrollton,  Md.  (1737- 
1832),  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence:  bronze 
statue  on  pink-gray  marble  pedestal  (1901),  gift  of  Mary- 
land; Richard  E.  Brooks,  sculptor.  Cost  $12,000;  47.  Samuel 
Adams  (1722-1803)  :  marble  statue  on  white  marble  pedestal 
(1873);  Anne  Whitney  (1821-1915),  sculptor.    Cost  $11,712.23; 

Samuel  Adams  did  more  than  any  other  one  man  to  bring 
about  the  Revolution.  On  March  6th,  1770,  the  day  after  the  Boston 
massacre,  he  was  spokesman  of  a  committee  sent  to  demand  the 
withdrawal  of  the  British  troops.  His  ultimatum  addressed  to  Gov. 
Hutchinson  is  inscribed  on  the  pedestal:  "Night  is  approaching.  An 
immediate  answer  is  expected.  Both  regiments  or  none."  The  troops 
were  withdrawn. 

48.  Stephen  F.  Austin  (1793-1836),  founder  of  Texas.  Es- 
tablished first  American  colony  on  site  of  Austin  in  1821 : 
marble  statue  on  red-brown  marble  pedestal  (1904),  gift  of 
Texas  ;  Elizabet  Ney,  sculptor.     Cost  $4500 ; 

Replicas  of  this  statue  and  of  Houston  by  the  same  sculptor  are  in 
the   State   Plouse  at  Austin    Texas. 


96  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

49.  Daniel  Webster  (1782-1852),  Statesman  and  orator: 
marble  statue  on  gray  granite  pedestal  (1894),  gift  of  New 
Hampshire.  (Copy  from  original  by  Thomas  Ball,  in  Concord, 
N.  H.;  Carl  H.  Conrads   (1839-     ),  sculptor.     Cost  $4482.11; 

50.  Sequoyah  (approximate  dates,  (1770- 1845).  Bronze  statue 
(1917),  gift  of  Oklahoma;  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie,  sculptor. 

Sequoyah,  once  a  leader  of  the  Cherokee  Indians  of  Georgia,  owes 
his  fame  chiefly  to  his  invention  of  the  Cherokee  alphabet,  an  achieve- 
ment all  the  more  remarkable  in  that  he  had  never  attended  school, 
and  could  neither  read  nor  write  the  English  language.  In  1823  he 
moved  from  Georgia  with  the  other  members  of  the  Cherokee  tribe, 
and  settled  in  that  part  of  the  Indian  Territory  which  has  since  become 
Oklahoma.  In  1828  he  visited  Washington  as  a  representative  of  the 
western  tribes  of  Indians,  on  which  occasion  his  invention  was  recog- 
nized by  Congress,  and  an  appropriation  of  $500  was  made  for  his 
benefit. 

The  room  in  which  John  Quincy  Adams  died,  then  occu- 
pied by  the  Speaker  of  the  House,  is  situated  at  the  N.  W. 
cor.  of  the  old  House  Wing.  It  is  reached  through  a  small 
door  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Statuary  Hall.  The  visitor  passes 
through  a  short  hallway  and  ascends  four  steps  to  a  door 
marked  "Enrolling  Room."  In  L.  of  entrance  is  a  pedestal 
bearing  a  commemorative  inscription,  and  surmounted  by  a 
bust  of  Adams,  by  /.  C.  King. 

Having  finished  the  circuit  of  the  Capitol,  the  visitor 
who  has  entered  by  the  eastern  main  entrance  should  by  .all 
means  return  to  the  Rotunda  and  leave  by  W.  exit,  descend- 
ing stairs  to  doorway  opening  upon  the  terrace,  in  order  to 
inspect  the  imposing  stairways  and  the  grounds  below.  Note 
especially  the  broad  walks  extending  directly  in  line  with 
Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey  Aves.  respectively,  and  over- 
arched from  each  side  by  rows  of  stately  Oriental  Plane  trees. 

II.    Pennsylvania  Avenue  from  the  Capitol  to  the 
White  House 

^Pennsylvania  Avenue,  Washington's  chief  thorough- 
fare, reaches  from  Rock  Creek  on  the  N.  W.  to  the  Ana- 
costia  River  on  the  S.  E.,  a  distance  of  nearly  five  miles,  with 
an  extension  of  more  than  a  mile  beyond  the  bridge  through 
Twining  City.  There  is  little,  however,  to  interest  the 
stranger  W.  of  the  White  House  or  E.  of  the  Capitol;  but 
between  these  points  the  Avenue,  connecting  as  it  does  the 
Legislative  and  executive  branches  of  the  Government,  is  the 
chief  artery  of  the  city's  life.     Here  the  first  important  hotels 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  97 

grew  up  (several  of  which  still  cling  to  the  old  sites)  ;  and 
here  almost  to  the  close  of  the  19th  century,  were  located 
the    principal    shops    and    places    of    amusement. 

History.  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  occupying  the  place  of  honor  on 
Major  L'Enfant's  plan,  dates  its  birthday  from  April  14th,  1792,  when 
orders  were  given  by  the  Commissioners  to  the  General  Overseer  of 
Labor  to  have  "a  breadth  of  two  perches  done  in  the  middle  of  the 
avenue  from  the  President's  Palace  to  the  Capitol."  Apparently  little 
was  accomplished,  for  in  1796  the  Commissioners  wrote  to  David 
Burnes  (p.  xxvii),  through  whose  land  the  greater  part  of  the 
avenue  ran,  warning  him  that  they  would  not  be  responsible  for 
damages  if  he  continued  to  plant  seed  in  Pennsylvania  Ave.  In  1800 
John  Cotton  Smith,  member  of  Congress  from  Conn.,  records  that 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  was  at  that  time  "nearly  the  whole  distance  a  deep 
morass  covered  with  alder  bushes,  which  were  cut  through  during  the 
ensuing  winter."  At  this  time  the  avenue  was  crossed,  about  on  the 
present  line  of  2d  St.,  by  the  Tiber  Creek,  over  which  it  was  found 
necessary  to  construct  a  stone  bridge.  Jefferson  from  the  first  interested 
himself  personally  in  developing  the  avenue,  and  there  is  little  doubt 
that  the  plan  of  dividing  its  broad  surface  into  three  parts  by  four 
rows  of  Lombardy  poplars,  originated  with  him.  By  1810  nearly 
$12,000  had  been  spent  on  these  improvements.  Meanwhile,  members 
of  Congress  were  gradually  shifting  their  abode  from  Capitol  Hill  along 
the  line  of  the  avenue,  centering  around  6th  St.  The  poplars  did 
not  thrive  and  gradually  were  replaced  with  a  variety  of  other  trees 
until,  in  183 1,  the  scheme  was  abandoned,  the  middle  rows  being 
removed  and  the  avenue  macadamized.  In  1842  Congress  authorized 
an  appropriation  to  erect  lamp-posts  along  the  avenue,  and  provide 
lamps  and  oil;  and  "the  great  National  Broadway  of  the  metropolis" 
had  for  seven  years  the  distinction  of  being  the  only  street  in  Wash- 
ington lighted  at  night.  In  1848,  however,  the  Washington  Gaslight 
Co.  was  chartered  and  pipes  were  laid  on  the  avenue  from  the  Capitol 
to    the    White    House. 

Throughout  more  than  a  century  Pennsylvania  Ave.  has  witnessed 
a  long  series  of  impressive  historic  events.  Down  its  length,  at  re- 
current intervals,  have  passed  the  inaugural  processions  of  the  nation's 
Chief  Magistrates;  here  also  have  passed  the  regiments  of  the  U.  S. 
Army  on  their  way  to  the  front  in  war  times,  and  later  in  the  cele- 
bration of  peace.  Here  also  have  been  seen  the  funeral  processions 
of  Zachary  Taylor,  Abraham  Lincoln  and  Garfield,  not  to  mention 
many  another  distinguished  statesman,  soldier  or  naval  hero  to  whom 
the  nation  has  here  paid  a  final  tribute.  The  most  recent  of  these 
impressive  occasions  were  those  of  the  funeral  of  Admiral  George  Dewey, 
Jan.  20th,  191 7;  the  burial  of  the  Unknown  Hero,  and  the  dedication 
of  the   Grant   Memorial. 

A  walk  up  the  Avenue  begins  at  the  northwestern  gate  of 
the  Capitol  grounds.  Here  where  1st  St.  N.  W.  curves  across 
its  rounded  boundary,  is  a  circle  containing  the  Naval  Monu- 
ment, popularly  termed  "Peace  Monument,"  facing  toward 
the  White  House.  The  sculptures  for  this  memorial  to  the 
"Officers,  Seamen  and  Marines  of  the  U.  S.  Navy  who  fell 
in  defense  of  the  Union  and  Liberty  of  their  country,  1861- 
65,"  were  modeled  by  Franklin  Simmons  in  Rome,  from  a 
sketch  by  Admiral  David  D.  Porter;  the  architectural  por- 
tion,  designed  by  Edward   Clark,  was   executed  by  Bonanni 


98  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Bros,  of  Carrara,  Italy,  brought  to  America  by  a  ship  of  war 
and  erected  1877. 

Surmounting  the  pedestal  are  two  bronze  figures:  America  sadly 
enumerating  her  losses,  while  History  records,  "They  died  that  their 
country  might  live."  Below,  on  the  front  or  western  plinth,  stands 
Victory  flanked  by  an  infant  Neptune  and  Mars;  on  the  opposite,  or 
rear    side,    Peace    extends    an    olive    branch. 

The  reason  why  critics  find  this  monument  inadequate  and  dis- 
appointing is  explained  by  its  history.  Admiral  Porter  was  entrusted 
with  $16,000  to  have  made  an  ideal  group  representing  Grief  and 
History,  to  be  erected  on  a  simple  pedestal  at  Annapolis.  Afterwards 
it  was  decided  to  place  the  group  in  Washington  upon  the  promise  of 
Congress  to  increase  the  subscription.  The  sculptures,  however,  were 
already  finished,  and  the  extra  $25,000  were  expended  upon  a  dispro- 
portionately  large   pedestal   which   dwarfs   the  figures. 

West  First  St.  was  for  many  years  disfigured  by  railway 
tracks,  laid  and  used  as  a  military  necessity  during  the  Civil 
War,  although  without  legal  warrant.  They  ran  from  Long 
Bridge  up  Maryland  Ave.  to  1st  St.,  and  thence  to 
the  yards  of  the  old  Baltimore  and  Ohio  station  at  New 
Jersey  Ave.  and  C  St.  Governor  Shepherd  (p.  xxxiv),  finding 
that  they  interfered  with  his  plans  for  the  city's  improvement, 
arbitrarily  removed  them — one  of  the  many  acts  which  hastened 
his  downfall. 

"When  it  is  considered  that  Mr.  John  W.  Garrett,  the  President 
of  the  Road,  was  as  influential  in  the  political  and  financial  world  at 
that  time  as  J.  Pierpont  Morgan  at  the  height  of  his  power,  the 
audacity  of  the  act,  although  in  the  discharge  of  a  public  duty,  has 
a  phase   of   moral   grandeur." — Tindall's   History   of    Washingtan. 

Proceeding  westward  from  the  Peace  Monument,  we  pass    , 
on    L.    the  ^Botanical    Gardens     (p.    241),    extending    from 
1st  to  3d  St.     Opposite,  on  N.  side,  are  two  blocks  of  small, 
time-worn    dwellings,    many    of    them    now    cheap    rooming 
houses. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  26.  St.  is  the  site  of  the  first  Rail- 
way passenger  station  (Baltimore  and  Ohio)  in  Washington. 
No.  237  Pennsylvania  Ave.  was  formerly  a  boarding-house 
where  Walt  Whitman  at  one  time  stayed.  Adjoining  on  the 
W.,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  3d  St.  is  a  century-old  hostelry,  originally 
known  as  the  St.  Charles  Hotel,  but,  after  many  changes^of 
name,  is  now  the  New  Capitol  Hotel,  a  favorite  stopping 
place  for  Indian  Chiefs. 

This  quaint  old  building  was  erected  181 3-19,  the  years  in  which 
the  Capitol  was  restored.  The  gray  marble  columns  of  the  mam 
entrance  on  3d  St.,  formed  part  of  the  debris  from  the  burnt  Capitol;  as 
was  also  the  cornice  over  the  doorway.  Beneath  the  pavement  on  the 
VV.    front    and    extending    around    the    corner    on    B    St.,    may    still    be 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  99 

seen  a  series  of  eleven  pens  where  slaves  were  kept  until  sold  at  the 
block  not  far  away.  Among  the  guests  of  this  hotel  are  included 
Daniel  Webster,  Henry  Clay,  Martin  Van  Buren,  John  C.  Calhoun  and 
Andrew  Jackson.  The  latter  is  said  to  have  made  two  of  his  famous 
speeches  from   the  hotel  balcony. 

At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  3d  St.,  facing  the  Gardens,  is 
Made's  Hotel,  an  ancient  wooden  hostelry,  founded  in  1848 
by  a  Swiss  inn-keeper,  whose  descendants  still  conduct  it. 
Here,  in  1880,  died  Gen.  John  A.  Sutter,  on  whose  property 
gold  was  first  discovered  in   California. 

Opposite,  on  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  3d  St.,  stands  another  hotel 
with  an  interesting  past.  It  was  originally  known  as  Gadsby's 
Hotel,  and  was  the  third  tavern  of  that  name  in  Washington 
(see  pp.  217  and  516),  and  here  resided,  among  others,  Reverdy 
Johnson  of  Maryland,  W.  P.  Thompson  of  Kentucky,  Vice- 
President  Hannibal  Hamlin  and  Vice-President  Henry 
Wilson.    It  is  now  known  as  the  Vendome  Hotel. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  John  Marshall  Place  (formerly 
4Y2  St.)  stands  conspicuously  the  six-story  white  structure 
of  the  Ford  Automobile  Warehouse.  To  the  traveller  approach- 
ing the  city  from  the  south,  its  massive  central  tower  is  the 
one  landmark  which  obtrudes  itself,  between  the  Capitol  and 
the  Washington  Monument.  The  one  interesting  fact  about  it 
is  that,  although  under  no  obligation  to  do  so,  Mr.  Ford  sub- 
mitted the  plans  of  this  building  to  the  City  Art  Commission 
and  accepted  their  advice,  in  order  to  conform  with  the  general 
scheme  of  municipal  improvement. 

The  site  of  this  building  was  for  several  years  occupied  prior  to 
1855,  by  a  select  boarding-house,  conducted  by  Mrs.  Elizabeth  Peyton. 
Among  her  guests  were  Henry  Clay,  John  C.  Calhoun,  Henry  A.  Wise 
and  R.  Y.  Hayne  of  South  Carolina.  It  was  here  that  Harriet  Mar- 
tineau  stayed  during  her  visit  to  the  Capital,  and  she  has  recorded 
that  her  pleasantest  evenings  were  those  when  Clay,  Calhoun,  Daniel 
Webster,  Justice  Story  and  the  aged  Chief  Justice  John  Marshall  would 
"repose  themselves  by  our  fireside."  Mrs.  Peyton  was  the  widow  of 
Corson  Thompson  Peyton,  U.  S.  Consul  to  Matanzas,  Cuba,  who  died 
there  in  1821.  From  1855  to  her  death  in  1888  she  kept  a  boarding- 
house  at  334  Indiana  Ave. 

Across  the  Avenue,  on  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  4^2  St.,  stands 
the  six-story  Colonisation  Building,  which  formed  the  original 
home  of   the  Georgetown  University  Law   School    (1870-73). 

Northward  on  John  Marshall  Place  the  vista  is  closed 
by  the  Roman  portico  of  the  venerable  City  Hall  (p.  137). 

The  Avenue  from  this  point  westward  to  Market  Space 
was  the  first  section  to  be  thickly  built  up.  By  1825  these 
two  blocks  were  lined  on  both  sides  with  shops  and  boarding- 
houses,  in  the  latter  of  which  a  large  proportion  of  the  Sena- 


ioo  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

tors  and  Representatives  found  lodgings.  The  ^National 
Hotel  (p.  4),  N.  E.  cor.  of  6th  St.,  was  built  in  1827,  by  the 
Calvert  estate.  During  the  years  1840-50  it  was  kept  by 
Coleman,  and  was  a  popular  house  patronized  by  John  Bell 
of  Tenn. ;  John  P.  Hale,  of  New  Hampshire,  and  Sam 
Houston,  of  Texas.  Webster  and  Clay  both  resided  there  for 
a  time,  and  there,  on  June  29th,  1852,  Clay  died.  His  room, 
No.  32  (old  numbering),  was  later  occupied  for  many  year? 
by  Alexander  H.  Stephens,  It  was  formerly  shown  to  tourists. 
The  interior  of  the  hotel  was  severely  damaged  by  fire  Oct.  2, 
1921.  All  four  corners  are  now  occupied  by  hotels  :  N.  W. 
cor.,  Atlantic  Hotel  (p.  4)  ;  S.  E.  cor.,  St.  James  Hotel 
(p.  4)  ;  S.  W.  cor.,  Hozuard  House  (p.  4). 

The  Atlantic  Hotel  stands  on  the  site  of  Washington's  earliest 
book  store  (1801-07),  erected  by  William  Duane,  editor  of  a  Jeffer- 
sonian  paper,  the  Philadelphia  Aurora,  and  hence  called  the  "Aurora 
Book  Store." 

The  Metropolitan  Hotel  (p.  4),  at  ;No.  615,  is  an- 
other historic  hostelry.  As  early  as  1802  one  William 
Woodward  acquired  the  eastern  part  of  its  present  site,  on 
which  he  opened  Woodward's  Centre  Tavern.  The  same 
ground  was  occupied  about  1808  by  Davis's  Hotel.  In  1816 
it  became  the  McKeown  Hotel,  and  in  1820  the  Indian  Queen, 
under  which  title  it  remained  for  many  years  Washington's 
leading  hotel.  It  was  designated  by  a  large  swinging  sign 
on  which  Pocahontas  was  painted  in  glaring  colors.  The 
house  was  kept  by  Jesse  B'.  Brown,  "the  Prince  of  Land- 
lords" who,  wearing  a  large  white  apron,  personally  presided 
at  table,  on  which  decanters  of  brandy  and  whiskey  were 
served  without  extra  charge.  This  hotel  was,  in  the  early 
years,  headquarters   for  men  from  the  west  and  southwest. 

Here,  in  1841,  Chief  Justice  Cranch  of  the  D.  C.  Supreme 
Court  administered  the  oath  of  office  to  President  John  Tyler. 
The  present  structure  was  erected  in  185 1,  when  the  name  was 
changed  to  the  Metropolitan.  Here  in  1852  Kossuth  and  his 
suite  were  guests  of  Congress.  Here  also  Avas  the  residence 
of  Anson  Burlinghame,  Ambassador  of  China,  to  make  treaties, 
and  of  Sun  Chia-Ku  and  Chi-Kang,  associated  high  envoys 
and  Ministers  of  China. 

The  name  was  changed  from  Brown's  to  the  Metropolitan 
Hotel  in  1851.  Here,  in  1852,  the  Hungarian  patriot,  Kossuth, 
and  his  suite  were  entertained. 

At    7th     St.     Pennsylvania     Ave.     intersects     C     St.    and    ^ 
Louisiana  Ave.    (running  N.   E.   from  the   Mall  to  Judiciary 
Square).     Here   in    front   of   Washington    Market,    from   7th 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  101 

to  9th  Sts.,  it  broadens  out  into  a  rectangular  plaza,  approxi- 
mately 400  ft.  broad  by  700  ft.  long,  known  as  Market 
Space.  Until  the  removal  of  the  shopping  centre  to  F  St., 
the  N.  side  of  Market  Space  contained  many  of  the  leading 
stores;  and  here,  occupying  the  greater  part  of  the  square 
between  7th,  8th  and  D  Sts.,  is  Kauri's  Department  Store 
built  partly  on  the  site  of  Woodward  &  Lothrop's  first  store 
(p.   148). 

At  the  E.  end  of  Market  Space,  in  the  triangle  formed  by 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  C  St.,  stands  a  small  ornamental  drink- 
ing fountain,  the  gift  of  Dr.  Henry  D.  Cogswell,  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. Immediately  N.,  at  the  apex  of  C  St.  and  Louisiana 
Ave.,  is  a  circle  containing  a  Monument  to  Dr.  Benjamin  F . 
Stephenson  (1823-71),  the  projector  of  the  Grand  Army  of 
the  Republic  (which  organization  gave  the  bronze  sculptures). 
It  consists  of  a  triangular  granite  pyramid;  on  the  N.  W. 
fagade  are  two  high-relief  figures  in  bronze,  a  soldier  and  a 
sailor,  inscribed  1861-65,  and  symbolizing  Fraternity;  below 
is  a  medallion  portrait  of  Stephenson.  S.  Side:  high-relief 
female  figure,  Loyalty,  with  shield  and  drawn  sword ;  E. 
Side :  Charity,  female  figure  protecting  .a  child.  The  monu- 
ment was   dedicated   1908.     /.  Massey  Rhind,  sculptor. 

The  two-story  gray  limestone  building  immediately  be- 
hind this  monument,  at  the  juncture  of  C  St.  and  Louisiana 
Ave.,   is  the  National  Bank  of   Washingon. 

This  bank  was  founded  in  1809  under  the  title  Bank  of  Washington, 
and  numbered  among  its  first  12  directors,  Daniel  Carroll  of  Dudding- 
ton,  George  Blagdon,  John  Davidson,  Robert  Brent  and  Joel  Barlow. 
The  directors  met  at  Long's  Hotel,  and  Daniel  Carroll  was  elected 
president.  The  first  building  was  on  New  Jersey  Ave.,  between  B 
and  C  Sts.,  S.  E.  The  bank  was  removed,  1829,  to  the  National 
Hotel;   and  in   1831   to  the  present  site,   acquired   at  a  cost  of  $10,000. 

Seventh  St.,  passing  W.  of  the  Stephenson  Monument, 
is  one  of  the  main  thoroughfares  northward,  with  trolleys 
running  to  Chevy  Chase  and  Rock  Creek  Bridge,  and  southward 
to  the  steamboat  wharves. 

In  the  long  triangle  W.  of  7th  St.  stands  an  Equestrian 
Statue  of  Gen.  WinHeld  Scott  Hancock  (1824-86),  of  bronze, 
heroic  size,  erected  by  Congress  at  a  cost  of  $40,000.  Henry 
J.    Ellicott,    sculptor. 

Washington  Market  occupies  the  whole  S.  side  of  Mar- 
ket Space,  from  7th  to  9th  St.,  extending  through  to  B  St. 
It  was  erected  by  the  Washington  Market  Co.  (chartered  by 
Congress  May  20th,  1870)  and  opened  July  1st,  1872.  Adolph 
Cluss,  architect. 


102  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

In  1888  and  following  years  the  market  was  rebuilt  and  its  capacity 
nearly  doubled,  and  the  9th  St.  hall  and  arcade  were  added.  The 
area  now  used  for  market  purposes  is  2*4  acres;  number  of  stalls  in 
main  market,  666;  total  number  of  spaces,  including  booths  under  awn- 
ings, wagon  spaces,  etc.,  1000.  The  cold  storage  room  is  refrigerated 
by    10   miles  of   two-inch   brine   pipe. 

The  Washington  Market  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Center  Mar- 
ket, currently  known  as  the  Marsh  or  "Ma'sh"  Market  because  the 
site  was_  originally  a  marsh,  where  reed-birds  were  often  shot.  On 
the  S-.  side,  along  the  line  of  the  present  B  St.,  was  the  Washington 
Canal,  built  to  connect  the  Eastern  Branch  with  the  Chesa- 
peake and  Ohio  Canal  at  its  terminus  near  17th  St.  Starting  at  a 
point  near  the  Navy  Yard,  the  Washington  Canal  met  the  Tiber  near 
the  Mall,  a  little  S.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  and  followed  the  course 
of  that  stream  to  the  point  where  it  emptied  into  the  Potomac.  The 
canal  was  a  stone-walled  ditch  from  10  to  15  ft.  deep,  and  Irom  45 
to  150  ft.  wide.  But  in  1853  it  had  ceased  to  be  regarded  as  any- 
thing more  than  a  big  sewer,  serving  chietiy  as  a  dumping  place  for 
the  market  refuse.  Because  of  this  canal,  the  whole  southwestern 
quarter   ot    the    city    was   currently   known    as    "The    Island." 

Ninth  Street,  crossing  Market  Space  at  the  W.  end,  is' 
another  north-and-south  artery  of  traffic,  with  trolleys 
running  to  Takoma  Park,  Soldiers'  Home,  etc.  In  the 
park  space,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  9th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave., 
stands  a  bronze  Statue  of  Major  General  John  A.  Rawlins, 
Grant's  Chief  of  Staff,  and  subsequently  his  Secretary  of 
War.  It  was  cast  from  Confederate  cannon  captured  by 
Grant's  armies,  and  erected  in  1874  by  friends  of  Rawlins 
at  a  cost  of  $13,000    (/.  Bailey,  sculptor). 

West,  at  the  corner  oif  C  St.  and  Louisiana  Ave.,  still 
stands  (1922)  an  old  theatre  which  has  probably  undergone 
more  changes  of  name  than  any  other  playhouse  in  the  city. 
It  was  opened  as  the  Gymnasium  in  1862,  and  became  suc- 
cessively the  Washington  Varieties,  Oxford  Hall,  and  the 
Canterbury.  It  was  then  re-organized  by  a  William  L.  Wall, 
and  opened  as  Wall's  Opera  House,  September  24th,  1866, 
under  the  management  of  James  R.  Ford,  whose  own  theater 
was  permanently  closed  upon  the  death  of  Lincoln  (p.  145). 
Here  Laura  Keene,  J.  M.  Wallack,  Jr.  and  Edwin  Forrest 
gave  their  last  performances  in  Washington;  and  here  the 
curtain  was  rung  down  on  the  death  scene  of  Helen  Weston, 
who  died  next  day  in  the  Kirkwood  House  (p.  106). 
The  theater  was  injured  by  fire  in  1871,  but  quickly  rebuilt 
and  renamed  Ford's  Opera  House.  It  has  since  been,  at  dif- 
ferent times,  the     Bijou,  the  Empire,  and  Majestic. 

No.  909  Pennsylvania  Ave.  is  the  site  of  the  former  resi- 
dence of  George  Wood,  author  of  Peter  Schlemihl  in  America, 
which  at  one  time  had  a  great  vogue. 

Number  925  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  now  occupied  by  a 
branch  of  the  Woolworth  stores,  is  the  site  of  another  his- 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  103 

toric  house  of  entertainment,  first  known  as  Iron  Hall.  Here 
Stuart  Robson  made  his  first  ambitious  but  unsuccessful  ap- 
pearance on  the  stage.  Later  it  became  Metzerott  Hall,  and 
here  Parepa  sang  for  the  first  time  in  Washington.  A  series 
of  readings  were  given  here  during  the  6o's,  one  of  the  read- 
ers being  Mark  Twain.  Later  the  Hall  became  identified 
with  the  so-called  "Shepherd  Ring,"  while  in  1877  it  served 
as  a  studio  in  which  Mrs.  Fassett's  famous  picture,  "The 
Florida  Case  before  the  Electoral  Commission"  (p.  74),  was 
painted. 

At  10th  St.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  intersects  with  D  St.  In 
the  triangle  here  formed  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Benjamin 
Franklin,  represented  in  his  Court  dress  as  U.  S.  Minister 
to  France.  It  was  modeled  by  Jacques  Jouvenal,  after  Plass- 
man,  and  presented  to  the  city,  in  1889,  by  Stilson  Hutchins. 

Stilson  Hutchins  (1838-1912)  was  a  capitalist  and  newspaper  pro- 
prietor, who  founded  successively  the  Dubuque  Herald,  the  St.  Louis 
Times  and  (1877)  the  Washington  Post,  which  he  conducted  until   1889. 

Behind  the  Franklin  statue,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  10th  and 
D  Sts.  stands  the  red  brick  Hutchins  Building,  formerly  the 
home  of  the  Washington  Post.  In  this  building  the  first  ex- 
perimental electric  lighting  plant  in  this  city  was  established 
and  operated  in  1881,  for  the  purpose  of  illuminating  the 
Avenue  in  honor  of  the  reunion  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the 
Cumberland,  when  the  statue  of  General  Thomas  was  dedi- 
cated (p.  228).  The  Hutchins  Building  occupies  in  part 
the  site  of  the  home  of  Peter  Force,  a  former  Mayor  of 
Washington    (1836-40),    and    author    of    American    Archives. 

The  S.  W.  cor.  of  10th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.  is  the 
site  of  a  famous  old  restaurant,  kept  for  many  years  by  one 
Michael  Coombs,  who  made  a  fortune  during  the  Civil  War 
from  the  patronage  of  the  Union  soldiers.  The  building, 
erected  in  1809,  of  imported  English  brick,  was  demolished  in 
1893  to  make  room  for  a  five-story  office  building. 

North  on  10th  St.  is  the  historic  Ford's  Theatre,  where 
President  Lincoln  was  shot  (p.  145).  South  on  the  Mall 
looms  up  the  dome  of  the  New  National  Museum  (p.  260).  At 
nth  St.,  S.  E.  cor.,  stands  Harvey's  Restaurant  (p.  7),  the 
oldest  and  best  known  of  the  fashionable  restaurants  (exclu- 
sive of  hotels).  It  first  achieved  fame  as  "Harvey's  Oyster 
House,"  in  Civil  War  days,  and  after  64  years  is  still  locally 
known  by  the  old  name. 

The  oyster  house  was  first  established  by  Thomas  M.  and  George 
W.  Harvey  in  1858,  in  an  old  blacksmith  shop  opposite  Carusi'si  Theatre. 
Business    grew    rapidly,    since    Harvey's    had    virtually    a    monopoly    of 


104  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

the  oyster  business  in,  Washington,  and  by  1862  purveyors  to  the  Array 
were  ordering  from  100  to  500  gallons  at  a  time.  Lack  of!  adequate 
facilities  for  boiling  oysters  in  such  vast  bulk  led  to  experiments  with 
steam,  resulting  in  the  invention  of  the  Steamed  Oyster,  on  which  the 
fame  of  Harvey's  has  ever  since  rested.  In  1863,  by  special  arrange- 
ment, President  Lincoln,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Lincoln,  Secretary 
Seward  and  his  wife,  viteited  the  former  blacksmith  shop,  to>  partake 
of   the   new   delicacy. 

The  present  building  was  acquired  in  1866  and  opened  as  a  fully 
equipped  high-class_  restaurant.  General  Grant  was  a  familiar  figure 
here,  and  his  favorite  seat  was  in  the  alcove  off1  the  second-floor  dining- 
room.  Others)  included  in  the  long;  list  of  famous  guests  are:  Reverdy 
Jiohnson.  Stephen  A.  Douglas,  Benjamin  F.  Butler,  "Sunset"  Cox, 
James  G.  Blaine,  Roscoe  Conkling,  and  Presidents  Garfield,  Arthur, 
Roosevelt  and  Taft. 

Immediately  adjoining  Harvey's  on  the  E.,  is  the 
Avenue  entrance  to  the  New  Capitol  Theatre  (formerly  the 
Lyceum),  the  main  body  of  which  occupies  an  historic  site 
at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  nth  and  -C  Sts.  Aside  from  occasional  J 
performances  given  in  Blodgett's  Hotel  (p.  142),  Washington 
had.  in  its  first  years,  no  playhouse.  In  1803  a  number  of  citi- 
zens met  at  Tunnicliff's  Tavern  (p.  410)  and  planned  for  the 
erection  of  the  first  theatre  in  the  city,  which  was  built  in  1804 
on  this  site,  and  known  officially  as  the  Washington  Theatre, 
and  colloquially  as  "The  Theatre."  It  is  interesting  to  know 
that  in  spite  of  many  casualties  and  reconstructions  a  portion 
of  the  side  and  rear  walls  of  the  New  Capital  are  the  same 
which  were  erected  in  1804. 

After  its  partial  destruction  the  building  was  sold  in  1822  to  the 
elder  Carusi,  who  reconstructed  it  under  the  new  title  of  City  Assembly 
Rooms.  Here  Carusi  conducted  a  dancing  academy,  and  in  thus  same 
hall  were  held  many  notable  gatherings  attended  by  the  best  people 
in  the  District.  It  was  the  scene  of  the  inaugural  balls  of  Presidents 
Van  Buren  (1837),  Polk  (1845),  Taylor  (1849),  Pierce  (1853),  and 
Buchanan  (1857).  In  1857,  after  the  National  Theatre  had  been  burned  1 
for  the  second  time  (p.  108),  Carusi's  Saloon  (as  it  was  then 
called)  was  remodeled  and  resumed  the  old  name  of  the  Washington 
Theatre.  Among  the  notable  performances  here  given  was  a  two- 
weeks  engagement,  at  the  time  of  Lincoln's  second  inauguration  (1865), 
of  the  Wallack  and  Davenport  Combination,  with  Rose  Etinge  and 
Henry   Placide. 

Josiah  Quincy,  who  visited  Washington  in  1826.  records  that  he 
"saw  the  waltz  introduced  into  society  for  the  first  time,"  at  a  public 
ball  at  Carusi's. 

At  nth  St.,  where  the  Avenue  intersects  D  St.,  stands 
the  Post  Office  Department  Building,  occupying  the  entire 
city  square  bounded  by  nth,  12th,  C  and  D  Sts..  a  massive 
structure  of  Vinalhaven,  Maine,  granite,  on  the  Romanesque 
order,  with  a  conspicuous  tower  315  ft.  in  height.  Cost,  in- 
clusive of  site,  a  little  over  $3,000,000.  The  building  was 
designed  in  the  office  of  the  Supervising  Architect  of  the 
Treasury. 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  105 

This  building  originally  contained  the  city  Post  Office  as 
well  as  the  offices  of  the  Department.  There  was  also  a  museum 
connected  with  the  Dead  Letter  Office,  containing  a  curious 
assortment  of  unclaimed  articles  which  had  gone  astray  in  the 
mail.  Upon  the  completion,  however,  of  the  new  City  Post 
Office  (p.  357),  at  North  Capitol  and  G  Sts.,  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  building  was  given  over  exclusively  to  the  Depart- 
ment work.  It  contains  now  nothing  of  interest  to  the  general 
sightseer. 

Diagonally  opposite,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  nth  St.,  is  the 
ten-story  white  marble  building  (erected  1808)  of  the  Wash- 
ington Evening  Star,  the  leading  afternoon  daily  (p.  44),  the 
first  number  of  which  appeared  in  December,  1852. 

The  Star,  established  by  Charles  W.  Dennison,  soon  passed  into  the 
control  of  William  D.  Wallach,  a  journalist  with  a  keen  instinct  for 
news,  who  introduced  new  ideas  and  methods  into  Washington  journal- 
ism, which  quickly  proved  more  popular  than  the  stately  and  flowing 
periods  of  the  old  National  Intelligencer.  The  Star  soon  became  the 
most  widely  read  newspaper  in  Washington ;  and  this  position  it  has 
maintained   to   the   present   time. 

Its  present  editor,  Theodore  Noyes,  began  as  a  Star  reporter  in 
1877;  became  associate  editor  ten  years  later,  and  editor-in-chief  in 
1908.  Mr.  Noyes  has  identified  himself  closely  with  the  welfare  of 
the  city.  He  is  known  as  the  "Father  of  the  Washington  Public 
Library;"  as  having  been  chiefly  instrumental  in  ridding  the  city  of 
grade  crossings  and  of  occupancy  of  parks  by  railroads;  he  helped  to 
keep  overhead  trolleys  out  of  Washington;  and,  since  1888,  has  advo- 
cated a  constitutional  amendment  giving  the  District  representation 
in    Congress. 

The  marble  lobby  of  the  main  business  office,  on  the 
ground  floor,  deserves  a  visit.  It  contains  a  series  of  seven 
mural  paintings  symbolizing  the  purpose  and  scope  of  the 
modern  newspapers.  They  were  executed  by  Frederick 
Dielman,  Director  of  the  Art  Schools  of  Cooper  Union,  New 
York. 

On  the  West  Wall:  1.  (central  panel),  Diffusion  of  Intelligence. 
In  the  centre  is  Journalism,  a  seated  female  figure  _  sending  forth  the 
winged  Genius  of  Enlightenment;  on  L.,  kneeling  child  with  hour  glass 
and  tablet  marked  "Lux,"  signifying  the  periodic  issue  of  the  newspaper; 
on  R.,  kneeling  youthful  figure,  with  trumpet  of  Fame  and  Printing- 
press,  surmounted  with  a  Liberty-cap;  2.  (on  L.),  Art,  History  and 
Literature;  (three  female  figures)  in  centre  stands  History  recording 
events;  seated,  on  L.  and  R.,  are  Art  holding  a  Grecian  Urn,  and 
Literature  with  manuscript  and  lyre;  3.  (on  R.)  Instruction,  Justice, 
Moderation:  (three  female  figures  seated)  in  centre^  is  Instruction 
teaching  a  boy  with  Phrygian  cap  and  spear  (symbolizing  the  young 
citizen  of  a  free  state);  on  L..,  is  Justice  with  sword  and  law  book; 
on   R.   is  Moderation  with   fasces   and  shield. 

North  Wall:  4.  News  Gathering,  personified  by  central  female 
figure    scanning    the    horizon;    kneeling    on    either    side     are     children, 


io6  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

L.  with  telegraph  instrument;  R.  with  carrier  pigeon;  5.  Advertising: 
in  the  centre  is  a  statue  of  Mercury,  god  of  commerce;  below,  in 
front,  are  a  group  of  children  displaying  their  wares;  on  L.  is  Com- 
merce, female  figure  with  winged  wheel;  on  R.  is  Manufacture,  female 
figure  showing  textiles 

South  Wall:  6.  Steam  and  Electricity:  on  R.,  winged  figure  of 
Electricity  brandishing  a  thunderbolt;  on  L.,  male  figure,  personifying 
Steam,  turns  a  wheel,  in  the  background  is  the  aurora  borealis;  7. 
Mechanical  development  of  Printing:  in  centre  is  female  figure  sym- 
bolizing the  old  style  of  hand  type-setting;  on  R.  is  a  Mergenthaler 
linotype   machine;    on    L.,    modern    rotary   press. 

The  Star  Building  houses  two  of  the  most  important 
business  organizations  in  Washington :  1.  The  Washington 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  with  a  membership  (1922)  of  up- 
wards of  500.  Its  general  purposes  as  defined  in  its  by-laws 
are:  "to  promote  and  nurture  commercial  and  manufacturing  j 
enterprises  .  .  .  and  to  bring  the  citizens  of  the  District, 
especially  its  business  men,  into  .  .  .  closer  relationship." 

2.  The  Washington  Board  of  Trade  (organized  1889), 
which,  in  1922,  had  an  active  membership  of  upwards  of 
1400.  Among  the  civic  improvements  which  this  organiza- 
tion has  successfully  championed  are:  the  completion  of  the 
sewerage  system;  the  deepening  of  the  river  channel:  the 
reclamation  of  the  Anacostia  flats ;  and  the  furthering  of  the 
Park  Commission  Plans  for  developing  and  beautifying 
Washington. 

Diagonally  opposite,  on  nth  St.,  is  the  office  of  the 
Washington  Herald  (p.  44).  At  S.  E.  cor.  of  nth  and  E 
Sts.  is  the  Hotel  Harrington,  enlarged  in  1917   (p.  4). 

Facing  the  Post  Office,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  12th  St.,  stands 
the  Raleigh  Hotel  (p.  3),  one  of  the  four  or  five  leading 
hotels  of  Washington. 

History.  Already  in  the  early  twenties  this  site  was  occupied  by 
a  hotel  known  as  Appier's.  Subsequently,  in  1839,  a  building  was 
erected  here  to  house  the  city  Post  Office;  but  this  was  soon  after 
replaced  by  the  Fountain  Inn,  which  in  turn  made  way  for  a  four- 
story  structure  erected  in  1847  by  Fuller  &  Co.,  and  known  success- 
ively as  Fuller's  Hotel,  the  Irving  and  the  Kirkwood.  Here  Andrew 
Johnson  resided  while  Vice-President;  and  the  name  Kirkwood  House 
survived  in  history  chiefly  as  the  place  where  his  assassination  was 
attempted  by  the  Lincoln  conspirators.  Here  also  Johnson  took  the 
Oath  of  Office  immediately  following  Lincoln's  death.  The  property 
was  later  purchased  by  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  who  erected  here  an 
office  building  which  he  used  many  years  as  his  place  of  business. 
This  in  turn  gave  place  to  the  present  Raleigh  Hotel,   erected  in   1893. 

On  the  walls  of  the  hotel  Foyer  are  numerous  paintings  and 
murals,  notably.   The  Departure  of   Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  The      ^ 
White  Cliffs  of  Dover  and  a  group  of  English  Pastorals  by 
C.  Y.  Turner;  also  Chelmonski's  After  the  Fair.     Among  the 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  10? 

paintings  in  the  Bar  adjoining  the  Cafe,  is  R.  L.  Johnson's 
Meeting  of  the  Arab  Sheiks.  In  the  Rathskeller,  known  as 
the  '"Boar's  Head,"  are  decorations  by  Turner,  including  quota- 
tions from  the  Rubaiyat.  There  is  also  a  Dutch  Room  with 
decorations  by  Turner.  On  the  top  floor  of  the  Raleigh  is 
a  spacious  ball-room  and  banquet  hall,  the  color  scheme  of 
which  is  white  and  gold. 

Diagonally  opposite  the  Raleigh,  at  No.  1202  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.,  is  the  Terminal  Station  of  the  Washington- 
Virginia  Railway.  The  cars  start  from  opposite  the  rear 
entrance  on  D  St. 

Opposite  this  station,  No.  1202  D  St.,  much  modernized, 
and  now  used  for  business  purposes,  is  the  old  house  occupied 
by  John  P.  Van  Ness  for  10  years,  after  his  marriage  to 
Marcia  Burnes.  Here  in  1807  and  again  in  181 1  Washington 
Irving  was  their  guest. 

The  spacious  quadrangle  formed  by  the  intersection  of 
the  Avenue  with  E  St.,  contains  a  number  of  notable  buildings. 
On  the  S.  side,  extending  from  13th  to  I3>4  Sts.,  is  the  six- 
story  buff  brick  Southern  Railway  Building,  the  new  or  eastern 
hall  of  which  was  completed  in  1917  (Milburn,  Heister  &  Co., 
architects). 

The  Southern  Railway  Building  occupies  the  site  of  two 
historic  hotels.  At  the  E.  cor.  formerly  stood  the  Prescott 
House,  used  during  the  early  days  of  the  Civil  War  as  a 
prison  for  political  prisoners.  At  the  W.  corner  stood  the 
Globe  Hotel,  kept  by  James  Maher  as  early  as  1827,  and  well 
known  as  headquarters  of  Indian  Chiefs  when  they  came  to 
pay  their  annual  visit  to  their  "White  Father." 

The  office  of  the  Danish  Legation  is  in  the  Southern 
Building,  Room  434. 

Opposite,  across  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  on  the  N.  line  of  E 
St.,  stands  the  National  Theatre,  dating  from  1835.  Ex- 
ternally it  is  a  stolid,  ungainly  structure  flanked  by  square, 
squat  towers.  Architects:  for  the  fagade,  A.  B.  Mullett;  for 
the  interior,  J.  B.  McElfatrick  &  Sons.  While  no  longer 
Washington's  leading  playhouse,  the  National  Theatre  has 
an  almost  unrivalled  record  in  the  history  of  the  American 
stage,  dating  back  over  eighty  years.  The  present  structure 
(1917)  is  the  sixth  theatre  erected  on  this  site,  all  of  which, 
with  one  exception,  have  borne  the  same  name. 

The  site  was  originally  chosen  by  William  W.  Corcoran,  and  the 
original    trustees    included    Henry    Randall,    William    L.    Brent,    Richard 


108  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Smith  and  Benjamin  Ogle  Tayloe.  Financial  difficulties  having  arisen 
during  construction,  Mr.  Corcoran  supplied  the  deficit.  The  first 
National  Theatre  opened  in  the  fall  of  1835,  with  a  play  entitled 
"The   Man    of    the    World." 

During    the     ensuing     ten     years     the     artists     seen  here     included 

Junius    Brutus    Booth,    J.    H.    Hackett,    Edwin    Forrest,  Fanny    Ellsler 

and  Ole  Bull.  The  theatre  was  burned  March  5th,  1845,  together 
with  several   dwellings   on    13th    St. 

It  was  rebuilt  as  the  New  National  Hall  in  1850,  the  work  being 
unduly  rushed  in  order  to  be  ready  for  the  reception  of  Jenny  Lind,  who 
made  her  Washington  debut  in  December.  A  few  weeks  later  it  was 
reopened  as  a  circus,  when  the  sudden  collapse  of  one  of  its  hastily 
built  walls  compelled   it  to   close  its  doors. 

The  third  edifice,  built  1852,  witnessed  the  Washington  debuts  of 
Lola  Montez  and  Charlotte  Cushman;  followed  by  engagments  of  the 
Ravel  Family,  Agnes  Robertson  and  Edwin  Booth;  also  an  operatic 
season    with    Grisi    and    Mario. 

Burned  again  in  1856,  this  theatre  was  rebuilt  and  opened  in  1862, 
as  Grover's  Theatre;  then  remodeled  and  reopened  as  The  National  in 
1864.  Here  appeared,  among  others,  Lotta,  Joseph  Jefferson,  Ristori, 
J.  S.  Clarke,  Lydia  Thompson  and  Marie  Seebach.  The  theatre  was 
burned  for  the  third  time  in  1873,  rebuilt  and  reopened  the  following 
year. 

Adjoining  the  theatre  on  the  W.,  is  the  eleven-story  white 
marble  Munsey  Building,  a  conspicuous  feature  in  a  city  where 
sky-scrapers  are  a  rarity.  In  this  building  are  the  offices  of 
the  Finnish  Legation. 

In  the  triangular  park  at  13th.  and  E.  Sts.  stands  the 
equestrian  statue  of  Count  Casimir  Pulaski  (1748-79),  the 
Polish  patriot  who  joined  Washington's  army  in  1777,  was 
commissioned  as  Brigadier  General,  distinguished  himself  and 
Brandywine  and  Germantown,  and  was  mortally  wounded  at 
the  Battle  of  Savannaah,  Oct.  9,  1789.  Monument  erected  1910 
at  cost  of  $55,000.     Casimir  Chodzinski,  sculptor. 

The  new  ^Municipal  Building,  popularly  known  as  the 
"District  Building,"  occupies  an  entire  city  block,  with  a 
frontage  of  243  ft.  on  D  and  E  Sts.,  and  193  ft.  on  13^  and 
14th  Sts.  It  is  a  classic  structure,  mainly  on  the  Corinthian 
order,  with  its  principal  facade  on  E  St.,  facing  the  Avenue 
across  a  triangular  park  space.  The  basement  story  of  Blue 
Hill  (Me.)  granite  supports  a  rustic  first  story  above  which 
is  an  ordinance  of  sixteen  Corinthian  columns  rising  through 
three  stories,  and  surmounted  by  a  cornice  and  attic  roof. 
The  material  of  all  the  upper  stories  is  South  Dover  (N.  Y.) 
marble.  An  appropriation  of  $2,500,000  was  made,  which 
covered  the  cost  both  of  the  land  and  the  building.  The 
latter  was  approximately  $1,750,000.  Cope  &  Stewardson, 
of  Philadelphia,  architects. 


PENNSYLVANIA    AVENUE  109 

The  external  sculptures  are  by  Adolf 0  de  Nesti  (b.  Flor- 
ence, Italy,  1870).  They  consist  of  eight  symbolic  statues, 
heroic  size,  placed  along  the  upper  cornice  of  the  main  facade, 
and  repeated  in  whole  or  in  part  on  the  other  three  sides  of 
the  building.  These  statues  (from  E.  to  W.)  symbolize: 
1.  Sculpture,  male  figure  holding  mallet  and  carved  tablet 
(the  head  is  a  portrait  of  the  sculptor)  ;  2.  Painting,  female 
figure  with  palette;  3.  Architecture,  male  figure  holding  Ionic 
capital ;  4.  Music,  female  figure  with  harp ;  5.  Commerce, 
female  figure  with  winged  globe,  and  shield  adorned  with 
a  ship;  6.  Engineering,  male  figure  with  surveying  instru- 
ment; 7.  Agriculture,  female  figure  with  fruits  of  the  field; 
8.  Statesmanship,  male  figure  in  Roman  toga,  with  Eagle. 
The  sculptures  over  the  main  entrance  (also  by  de  Nesti) 
consist  of  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  District,  surmounted  by 
an  eagle,  and  flanked  by  two  half  recumbent  female  figures : 
on  L.,  Justice,  with  scales ;  on  R.,  the  Law,  with  scroll. 

The  vestibule  is  finished  in  pure  white  marble,  hand- 
somely carved.  On  R.  is  a  bronze  portrait  medallion  com- 
memorating John  W.  Ross,  Commissioner  of  District  of 
Columbia,   1890-1902    (U.  S.  J.  Dunbar,  sculptor). 

In  entrance  hall,  near  foot  of  stairs  (L),  is  a  bronze 
portrait  bust  of  Crosby  Stuart  Noyes  (1825-2908),  a  promi- 
nent citizen  and  philanthropist.     William  Couper,  sculptor. 

There  is  comparatively  little  to  interest  the  stranger 
within  the  building,  with  the  exception  of  the  fine  main  lower 
hall  and  stairway,  finished  in  Georgia  marble  from  the  Che- 
rokee and  Kenneshaw  quarries,  and  the  *Board  Room  on  the 
upper,  or  Administration  floor.  The  latter,  the  handsomest 
room  in  the  building,  25  x  52  ft,  extends  along  the  N.  side, 
and  is  finished  throughout  with  richly  carved  and  deep-toned 
butternut  wood  (except  part  of  the  upper  panels  and  mould- 
ing, where  it  became  necessary  to  use  a  different  wood  stained 
to  match,  because  the  available  supply  of  seasoned  butternut 
was  insufficient). 

Along  the  north  hallway,  and  in  the  adjoining  rooms, 
are  some  interesting  portraits  of  former  Mayors  of  Wash- 
ington and  Governors  of  the  District.  Those  in  the  hallway, 
from  W.  to  E.  are  as  follows :  1.  *Joseph  Gales,  Jr.,  Mayor 
1827-30  (Chester  Harding,  artist)  ;  2.  Philip  Dodridge  (Va.), 
Representative  1829-31 ;  3.  Senator  Samuel  L.  Southard  of 
N.  J.,  1821-33;  4.  Alexander  Thompson  (Penn.),  Representa- 
tive 1824-26;  5.  Charles  Fenton  Mercer  (Va.)   Representative 


no  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

1817-39;  (over  stair  landing)  6.  *William  W.  Seaton,  Mayor 
1840-50.  In  room  509  portrait  of  James  G.  Berret,  Mayor 
1858-61  {Robert  Hinckley,  artist)  ;  Matthew  G.  Emery,  Mayor 
1870-71.  In  the  ante  rooms  of  the  Commissioners'  offices  are 
other  portraits,  chiefly  pen-drawings  and  photographs,  repre- 
senting an  almost  complete  series  of  the  Mayors  and 
Governors. 

In  the  Plaza  in  front  oif  the  Municipal  Building  stands  a 
statue  of  Alexander  R.  'Shepherd  (1835-1902),  former  Gover- 
nor of  Washington   (p.  xxxiv).     U.  S.  J.  Dunbar,  sculptor. 

The  New  Willard  Hotel  (p.  3),  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  14th  St.,  rivals  the  Shoreham  as 
Washington's  most  fashionable  hotel.  It  is  a  twelve-story 
'structure  in  the  French  Renaissance  style,  and  extends 
through  from  the  avenue,  along  14th  St.,  to  F  St.  {Henry  G. 
Hardenbergh,  architect).  Especially  famous  is  the  central 
hallway  on  the  main  floor,  popularly  known  as  "Peacock 
Alley."  Here,  by  day  and  by  night,  may  be  -seen  interesting 
groups  of  distinguished  guests  of  many  nationalities.  Among 
the  various  organizations  which  hold  their  periodic  meetings 
at  Willard's,  the  most  widely  known  is  the  Gridiron  Club, 
which  holds  two  dining  sessions  annually,  at  which  the 
President  of  the  United  States  and  other  dignitaries  are 
"not  only  special  guests,  but  the  special  marks  for  unique 
and  witty  darts ;  in  fact  they  constitute  the  meat,  which  is 
'roasted'  on  both  sides  as  it  wriggles  and  broils  on  the  grates 
of  the  human  gridiron." 

The  site  of  the  New  Willard  has  been  occupied  as  a  hotel  for 
approximately  a  century.  In  1818  the  first  hostelry  was  opened  by  one 
John  Tennison  in  the  corner  house  of  a  row  of  six  two-story-and-attic 
houses,  erected  by  John  Tayloe.  Associated  with  him  was  John 
Strother,  who  became  the  sole  proprietor,  and  for  six  years  ran  it 
successfully  as  Strother's  Hotel,  gradually  absorbing  the  other  houses 
in  the  row.  By  1830  the  name  had  been  changed  to  the  "City  Hotel," 
and  during  1840-50  it  was  conducted  by  Fuller  and  Company,  and 
known  either  as  "Fuller's  City  Hotel,"  or  more  briefly  as  "Fuller's." 
Meanwhile,  the  title  remained  vested  in  John  Tayloe,  by  whose  will 
it  passed,  in  1847,  to  Benjamin  Ogle  Tayloe.  Three  years  later,  when 
the  Fuller  management  ceased,  Mr.  Tayloe's  second  wife,  who  was 
Phoebe  Warren  of  Troy,  recommended  as  the  new  manager  a  "dear 
friend"  named  Henry  A.  Willard,  then  running  a  Hudson  River 
steamer.  Under  this  new  manager,  who  brought  with  him  his  brothers, 
Joseph  and  C.  C.  Willard,  the  hotel  so  prospered  that  in  the  early 
sixties  it  was  enlarged  and  extended  up  to  F  St.  Early  in  the  Civil 
War  Willard's  caught  fire,  and  came  near  being  destroyed,  but  was 
saved  by  Colonel  Ellsworth's  Zouaves,  who  happened  then  to  be 
quartered    there.      Later   Willard's   was   sold   at   auction    and    was   bought 


THE    WHITE    HOUSE  in 

in  by  Joseph  Willard,  who  was  henceforth  sole  owner  and  manager. 
It  was  after  this  that  C.  C.  Willard  acquired  the  Ebbitt  House  (p.  5). 
Among  distinguished  guests  at  the  older  Willard's  were  Presidents 
Zachary  Taylor,  Millard  Fillmore  and  James  Buchanan.  Here  also 
Abraham  Lincoln  stayed  prior  to  his  inauguration  in  1861.  And  here 
General  Grant  received  his  appointment  as  Lieut.  General.  It  was 
also  while  staying  at  Willard's  that  Mrs.  Julia  Ward  Howe  was 
inspired  to  write  "The  Battle  Hymn  of  the  Republic." 

West  oif  Willard's,  at  No.  411  Pennsylvania  Ave.  is  the 
five-story  Occidental  Hotel  (p.  5),  occupying  another  his- 
toric hotel  site.  As  early  as  1822  the  "Washington  Hotel" 
stood  here,  known  also  as  "Sandford's  Hotel,"  after  its  pro- 
prietor, Alexander  Sandford. 

On  the  S.  side  O'f  the  avenue  between  14th  and  15th  Sts., 
stand  the  Washington  headquarters  of  the  Grand  Army  of 
the  Republic;  Poll's  Theatre  (p.  24)  ;  and  the  Oxford  Hotel, 
the  latter  occupying  (at  S.  E.  cor.  of  15th  St.)  the  site 
of  Mrs.  Sutor's  boarding  house,  where  Admiral  Cockburn 
stopped  at  the  time  of  his  occupation  of  Washington  in  1814. 

Opposite,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  14th 
St.,  facing  the  Treasury  and  extending  through  to  F  St.  is 
the  Washington  Hotel  (PI.  II — D5),  a  ten-story  structure 
of  buff  brick  and  Indiana  Limestone,  with  ornamental  frieze 
at  8th  story,  consisting  of  medallion  portraits  of  famous  men. 
Carrere  &  Hastings,  architects.  On  the  main  floor  is  a  great 
assembly  hall  containing  nearly  6500  sq.  ft.  of  floor  space, 
known  as  the  Salon  des  Nations. 

III.    The  White  House 

**The  White  House  (PI.  II— C4),  as  the  residence  of 
the  Chief  Executive  is  popularly  known,  is  situated  in  the  upper 
portion  of  the  fourteen-acre  plot  called  the  Executive 
Grounds,  centering  approximately  at  the  intersection  of  the 
axes  of  16th  and  G  Sts.,  with  its  main  fagade  overlooking 
Pennsylvania  Ave.,  directly  opposite  Lafayette  Square.  In 
style  it  is  an  adaptation  of  Italian  Renaissance,  built  of  Acquia 
Creek  sandstone,  painted  white ;  and  its  stately  N.  and  S. 
porticoes  are  borne  upon  Ionic  columns.  The  legend,  re- 
peated in  practically  all  guide-books,  that  the  architect,  James 
Hoban,  an  Irishman  by  birth,  based  his  design  upon  the 
Palace  of  the  Duke  of  Leinster,  in  Dublin,  has  been  definitely 
refuted.  On  the  other  hand,  the  building  admittedly  bears 
a  striking  resemblance  to  the  vice-regal  lodge  in  Phoenix 
Park,  Dublin.  Its  official  name  is  the  "Executive  Mansion"; 
the  first  to  break  this   tradition  being   President   Roosevelt, 


ii2  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

during  whose  administration  all  public  documents  and  cor- 
respondence emanating  from  his  office  were  stamped  "White 
House." 

History.  James  Hoban  was  one  of  the  numerous  competitors  who 
submitted  plans  for  the  "President's  House"  in  response  to  the  ad- 
vertisement by  the  Commissioners,  on  March  14th,  1792,  for  plans  to 
be  submitted  not  later  than  July  15th  following.  His  designs  were 
promptly  accepted,  and  he  received  the  promised  award  of  $500  and  a 
building  lot.  The  cornerstone  of  the  White  House  was  laid 
October  13th,  1792,  the  300th  anniversary  of  the  landing  of  Colum- 
bus. The  progress  of  the  work  of  erection  was  slow,  the  architect 
being  hampered  by  lack  of  funds.  The  needed  money  had  to  be  raised 
either  through  the  sale  of  lots  in  the  Federal  City,  or  through  con- 
tributions from  Maryland  and  Virginia.  It  was  not  until  April, 
1800,  that  Congress  gave  any  aid;  and  then  made  an  appropriation 
of  only  $15,000  for  the  purpose  of  buying  furniture.  In  spite  of 
obstacles,  however,  the  work  had  so  far  progressed  in  the  fall  of  1799 
that  General  and  Mrs.  Washington  were  able,  shortly  before  the 
former's  death,  to  make  a  tour  of  inspection  through  the  rooms.  Yet, 
when  President  Adams  and  his  wife  came  to  Washington  the  following 
year  and  occupied  the  White  House,  they  found  a  disheartening  state 
of  unpreparedness,  which  Mrs.  Adams  graphically  described  in  her 
well-known  letter  of  November  21st,  1S00:  "There  is  not  a  single 
apartment  finished,"  she  wrote,  "we  have  not  the  least  fence,  yard  or 
other  convenience,  without,  and  the  great  unfinished  audience  room  I 
make  a  drying-room  of,  to  hang  up  clothes  in.  The  principal  stairs 
are  not  up,  and  will  not  be  this  winter." 

In  spite  of  delays  the  White  House  was  the  first  of  the  Govern- 
ment Buildings  to  be  completed.  Hoban's  original  plans  called  for  an 
E.  and  W.  terrace,  similar  to  those  recently  constructed,  but  on  a 
more  modest  scale.  It  is  uncertain  when  the  first  terraces  were  added, 
but  presumably  during  the  administration  of  Jefferson,  since  it  is 
known  that  his  office  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  executive  offices. 

The  White  House  was  one  of  the  buildings  seriously  injured  by 
fire  during  the  British  occupation  in  1814.  As  it  was  rendered 
uninhabitable,  the  President  and  Mrs.  Madison  were  glad  to  accept  the 
hospitable  offer  of  Col.  John  Tayloe,  of  his  home,  the  Octagon  House 
(p.  209)  as  a  temporary  White  House.  There  they  resided  for  a 
year,  after  which  they  removed  to  one  of  the  "Seven  Buildings"  (p.  215), 
at  the  cor.   of  Pennsylvania  Ave.   and    19th   St. 

The  task  of  planning  and  overseeing  the  restoration  of  the  White 
House  was  entrusted  to  Hoban,  the  original  architect.  The  extent 
of  the  damage  is  indicated  in  the  report  made  by  the  Committee  on 
Restoration  in  the  following  November,  which  reads  in  part  as  follows: 
"The  vaulting  which  supports  some  of  the  floors  is  very  little,  if  at 
all,  weakened  by  the  burning,  and  parts  of  the  walls,  arches  and 
columns  are  in  a  state  requiring  a  small  expense  to  preserve  them." 
Yet  the  cost  of  repairs  eventually  amounted  to  $246,490,  or  slightly 
more  than  two-thirds  the  original  cost  of  the  building,  namely: 
$333,207.04. 

On  January  1st,  1818,  the  White  House  was  thrown  open  for  the 
general  reception  of  visitors  for  the  first  time  since  its  restoration. 
Work  on  it,  however,  in  the  form  of  various  improvements,  continued 
for  several  years.  In  1819  Congress  appropriated  upward  of  $8000 
for  enlargement  of  "the  office  west  of  the  President's  house."  The  S. 
portico  was  added  in  1823  at  a  cost  of  $18,000;  the  East  Room  was 
finished  and  furnished  a  few  years  later  out  of  an  appropriation  of 
$25,000,  and  the  north  portico  erected  in   1829  at  a  cost  of  $25,000. 


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THE    WHITE    HOUSE  113 

Gas  lighting  was  installed  in  the  White  House  in  1848;  and  a 
system  of  heating  and  ventilation  in  1853.  About  1857  the  W.  terrace 
was  built  over  with  green-houses  and  its  existence  forgotten  until 
unearthed  during  the  wholesale  reconstruction  in  1902.  The  E. 
portico  was  removed   some   time  prior   to    1870. 

The  White  House  continued  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of 
offices  and  residence  of  the  successive  presidents  down  to  the  fall  of 
1902,  notwithstanding  that  the  discomfort  of  its  inadequate  space  was 
steadily  augmenting,  and  plans  for  a  new  Executive  Mansion  were 
seriously    discussed. 

There  were  some  who  even  advocated  a  change  of  site,  and  the 
high  ground  of  Meridian  Hill  (p.  208),  at  what  was  then  the  terminus 
of  1 6th  St.,  found  numerous  supporters.  But  the  widespread  public 
sentiment  in  favor  of  retaining  an  historic  landmark,  second  in  interest 
only  to  the  Capitol  itself,  led  to  a  determination  to  endeavor  first  to 
learn  whether  it  would  be  possible,  without  destructive  alterations,  to 
adapt  the  old  building  to  the  modern  needs.  Accordingly,  in  the  spring 
of  1902,  Messrs.  McKim,  Mead  and  White  were  requested  to  make  an 
exhaustive  examination  of  the  White  House,  and  to  submit  plans  and 
estimates  for  such  changes  as  seemed  necessary.  In  his  message 
transmitting  to  Congress  the  report  of  the  architects,  President  Roose- 
velt succinctly  defined  as  follows  the  spirit  in  which  the  proposed  recon- 
struction was  to  be  made: 

"The   White  House  is  the  property   of   the  Nation,  and  so  far  as  is 
compatible  with   living  therein   it  shall   be   kept  as   it  originally   was,    for' 
the  same   reason  that  we   keep   Mount  Vernon  as   it  originally   was." 

The  report  of  the  architects  having  been  approved,  Congress 
appropriated  $65,000  for  the  erection  of  temporary  offices  for  the 
President,  and  $475,000  for  remodeling  and  refurnishing  the  White 
House. 

The  contract  was  let  for  the  work,  the  stipulation  being  that 
everything  must  be  done  within  four  months,  so  that  the  family  could 
again   occupy  the  building  and  the   President  the  offices. 

Most  of  the  work  was  done  during  the  summer  months  while 
President  and  Mrs.  Roosevelt  were  at  Oyster  Bay.  Upon  their  return 
in  September  they  were  quartered  temporarily  at  No.  22  Jackson  Place 
(p-  IQ3)>  diagonally  opposite  the  White  House.  In  October  the  work 
was  completed,  and  the  President  took  possession  of  the  new  Executive 
offices,  and  his  family  moved  into  the  now  commodious  quarters  of  the 
White    House. 

The  task  of  the  architects  had  been  vastly  facilitated  by  the 
discovery  in  the  Government  archives  of  Hoban's  original  plans  and 
specifications  which  differed  in  many  respecits  from  the  building  he 
subsequently  erected.  Wherever  practicable  Messrs.  McKim,  Mead  and 
White  endeavored  to  realize  the  original  architect's  conception,  with  the 
result  that  the  White  House,  as  it  stands  to-day,  is  more  nearly  than 
ever   before   a   fulfillment   of   Hoban's   first   intent. 

The  alterations  accomplished  may  be  briefly  summed  up  as  fol- 
lows: the  unsightly  accumulation  of  green-houses  west  of  the  White 
House  was  demolished,  and  the  hidden  colonnade  of  the  west  terrace 
brought  to  light.  The  buried  foundations  of  the  demolished  east 
terrace  were  located,  and  both  terraces  rebuilt  on  a  much  more  im- 
pressive scale  than  the.  originals,  yet  in  harmony  with  the  spirit  revealed 
in  Hoban's  plans.  The  new  Executive  offices  erected  at  the  extreme 
end  of  the  W.  terrace,  afforded  ample  room  for  the  President's  official 
staff,  making  it  possible  to  transform  the  space  formerly  occupied  Dy 
them  in  the  S.E.  section  of  the  second  story  of  the  White  House, 
into  two  additional  bed-room  suites  and  bathrooms.  The  eastern 
terrace  was  utilized  as  the  main  public  entrance,  including  cloak  rooms 
with    compartments   sufficient   to    meet    the   needs    of    2500    guests.      The 


ii4  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

most  radical  alteration  within  the  house  itself  was  the  removal  of  the 
N.  wall  of  the  State  dining-room,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  in  the 
western  end  of  the  central  corridor.  This  necessitated  the  sacrifice  ot 
the^  historic  old  stairs;  but  it  increased  the  seating  capacity  of  the 
dining-room  by  60  per  cent,  making  it  now  possible  to  accommodate 
more  than  a  hundred  guests.  The  greatest  transformation  of  all  is  one 
which  has  left  no  outward  mark:  i.  e.,  the  removal  of  the  entire 
original  wooden  framework,  and  a  substitution  throughout  of  modern 
steel  construction.  The  result  is  that  the  White  House  stands  to-day 
essentially  an  up-to-date  fire-proof  building,  fully  adequate,  so  far  as 
may  be   foreseen,   to   meet  all   requirements   for  a   century   to   come. 

Formerly,  not  only  were  the  state  reception-rooms  open 
to  the  general  public,  but  occasionally,  even  so  late  as  in  the 
seventies,  attendants  would  permit  visitors  to  see  some  of 
the  private  apartments  during  the  temporary  absence  of  the 
President's  household.  For  some  time  past  the  East  Room 
and  the  corridors  through  which  it  is  approached  have  been 
the  only  parts  of  the  house  visible  to  the  casual  stranger 
(open  daily,  10  a.  im.  to  2  p.  m.)  The  historic  Red,  Blue  and 
Green  Rooms  could,  however,  be  seen  by  special  arrange- 
ment. This  also  applies  to  the  President's  offices,  which  are 
open  to  visitors  only  by  appointment. 

The  White  House  Grounds.  Originally,  the  "President's 
Square"  comprised  about  seventy  acres,  extending  south  to 
the  Mall,  and  along  Pennsylvania  Ave.  from  15th  to  17th  St., 
thus  including  the  present  sites  of  the  Treasury  Building 
(p.  122),  and  State,  War  and  Navy  Building  (p.  126).  This 
tract,  however,  was  never  fenced  in  as  a  whole.  The  present 
grounds,  enclosed  by  a  high  iron  fence,  contain  only  fourteen 
acres.  The  two  main  gateways  are  on  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
near  the  N.  E.  and  N.  W.  corners  respectively.  They  were  the 
scene  of  the  suffragette  "picketing"  of  1917,  and  the  resultant 
rioting. 

The  beauty  of  the  President's  Grounds  is  due  in  the  first  instance 
to  Andrew  Jackson  Dowling,  who  introduced  the  English  land- 
scape gardening  system  into  America,  and  was  commissioned  by  Con- 
gress to  lay  out  these  grounds,  together  with  the  Mall  and  Franklin 
and  Lafayette  Squares.  Dowling  died  before  he  had  made  more 
than  a  beginning;  but  his  plans  were  diligently  carried  out  by  his 
successor. 

The  most  notable  subsequent  improvements  were  made  during  the 
Grant  administration,  when  the  disfiguring  iron  fences  which  bordered 
the  circular  walks  of  the  north  grounds  were  removed,  and  the  lawn 
thrown  open  to  its  present  spacious  proportions.  At  the  same  time 
the  two  executive  avenues  to  E.  and  W.  of  the  mansion  on  a  line  with 
Madison  and  Jackson  PI.  were  cut  through  and  graded;  and  the  low 
lands  at  the  S.  of  the  park  were  filled  in  and  planted  with  trees  and 
shrubbery,  by  the  late  George  H.  Brown,  "father  of  the  Washington 
parking  system."  A  still  more  recent  change,  made  during  the  Wilson 
administration,  is  the  establishment,  under  the  direction  of  Col.  Harts, 
of  two  picturesque  colonial  gardens  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  the  mansion, 
south    of    the    terraces. 


THE    WHITE    HOUSE  115 

Many  of  the  trees  in  the  grounds  are  historic.  On  the  E.  knoll 
in  the  south  grounds,  is  an  American  elm,  planted  by  President  John 
Quincy  Adams,  and  believed  to  be  the  oldest  tree  on  the  grounds. 
Another  elm,  almost  directly  in  front  of  the  mansion  on  the  N.  side 
is  one  of  a  pair  planted  by  President  Hayes,  on  the  E.  and  W.  curves 
of  the  driveway  respectively.  The  eastern  elm  was  uprooted  by  a  storm 
in  1913;  the  young  tree  which  now  occupies  its  place  was  planted  the 
following  year  by  President  Wilson.  A  little  further  N.  on  the 
driveway  is  a  fine  sweet  gum  tree,  planted  in  1892  by  President 
Harrison.  The  scarlet  oak  on  the  N.  of  the  walk  leading  to  the 
executive  offices  was  set  out  by  President  McKinley  in  the  second  year 
of  his  administration.  The  fern-leaved  beech  near  the  entrance  to  the 
E.  colonnade  is  one  of  a  pair  planted  respectively  by  President  and 
Mrs.  Roosevelt.  The  president's  tree  died;  but  that  of  his  wife  is  in 
fine  condition.  Lastly,  several  trees  were  planted  by  the  grand- 
children of  President  Harrison;  the  finest  is  a  scarlet  oak,  which 
towers  over  the   N.   E.   gateway.      It  was  set  out  by  little   Marie  McKee. 

The  Interior  of  the  White  House.  The  former  main 
entrance  to  the  White  House,  and  the  North  portico,  is  now 
reserved  for  the  use  of  the  President's  family  and  personal 
friends.  The  public,  when  admitted  at  all,  traverse  the  length 
of  the  E.  terrace  and  enter  the  central  hallway  of  the  ground 
floor.  On  N.  and  S.  are  two  large  ante-rooms  (for  men  and 
women  respectively),  intended  for  the  use  of  guests  at  the 
large  receptions.  Beyond  these  ante-rooms  a  broad  and  easy 
stairway  leads  to  the  floor  above. 

This  stairway  is  divided  through  the  middle  by  a  brass 
railing.  Guests  at  receptions  ascend  the  western  half  of  the 
stairway  to  the  receiving  line  in  the  Blue  Room  on  the  floor 
above,  continue  thence  through  the  East  Room  to  the  door 
opening  at  the  head  of  these  stairs  and  descend  the  eastern 
half  of  the  stairway  to  the  wrap-rooms  below. 

Opposite  the  stairs  on  the  ground  floor  is  the  room 
remodeled  by  Col.  W.  W.  Harts  during  the  summer  of  1916, 
to  contain  the  steadily  augmenting  collection  of  White  House 
china,  glass  and  other  table-service.  Eventually  all  the  wall 
space  will  be  lined  with  cabinets ;  but  as  yet  only  one  cabinet 
has  been  installed.  It  is  of  the  Georgian  type  and  is  of  hard 
pine,  painted  ivory  white.  The  pediment  is  inscribed  in  gold 
letters  "China  used  by  the  President."  The  furniture  in  the 
room  is  part  of  the  teakwood  set  acquired  during  the  McKinley 
administration  for  the  East  Room. 

The  cabinet  is  divided  into  five  sections,  containing 
variously  three,  four  or  five  shelves  each.  The  relics  are 
arranged  in  the  chronological  order  of  the  Presidential  suc- 
cession. The  oldest  pieces  are  in  the  central  section ;  the 
rest  of  the  collection  being  arranged  in  order  toward  right 
and  left. 


n6  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

On  the  upper  shelf  of  the  central  section  are  several  pieces  of 
the  table  silver  purchased  by  the  Government  from  the  retiring  Russian 
Minister,  Baron  de  Tuyll,  including  a  coffee  pot  and  bread  tray,  on 
which  the1  Baronial  Arms  can  still  be  traced.  In  the  centre  section 
are  also  the  Washington  and  Adams  relics,  including  a  plate  from 
Washington's  famous  Cincinnati  dinner  set,  presented  in  19 16  by  Mary 
Custis  Lee,  daughter  of  Robert  E.  Lee.  The  most  interesting  of  the 
Adams  relics  are  the  John  Adams  goblet  and  a  silhouette  of  Abigail 
Adams,  first  Mistress  of  the  White  House. 

On  the  first  shelf,  at  the  L.  of  the  Washingtoniana,  is  a  speci- 
men of  the  well-known  Jefferson  blue  and  white  Cantonese  porcelain, 
presented  by  a  lineal  descendant,  the  late  T.  Jefferson  Coolidge,  of 
Boston.  Next  to  it  is  the  Madison  china,  including  reputed  specimens 
of  Dolly  Madison's  famous  blue  and  gold  set. 

To  the  L.  of  the  centre  section  are  relics  representing  the  Presi- 
dents from  Fillmore  to  Benjamin  Harrison.  Among  the  Jackson  relics 
is  one  of  a  pair  of  old  Sheffield  candelabra,  presented  to  President 
Jackson  by  Tammany  Hall.  President  Taylor  is  represented  by  an 
ornate  Mexican  spur,  a  pair  of  silver  candlesticks  and  the  gold  head 
of  a  cane  inscribed  "To  the  hero  of  Buena  Vista."  The  Lincoln 
exhibit  occupies  a  whole  shelf,  and  most  of  the  dishes  were  selected 
from  the  White  House  closets.  They  include,  however,  two  recent 
donations,  a  tea  cup  and  an  after  dinner  coffee  ciup,  which  are  especially 
prized   because   they   have  no   duplicates   among  the   White   House   china. 

The  East  Entrance  Hallway,  known  also  as  the  "New 
Basement  Picture  Gallery,"  contains  several  interesting  por- 
traits : 

1.  The  second  Mrs.  Tyler  (Julia  Gardner),  by  F.  Anelli; 
2.  Mrs.  Martin  Van  Buren  (Angelica  Singleton),  wife  of 
Major  Van  Buren,  son  of  the  President;  3.  Mrs.  Rutherford 
B.  Hayes,  by  Daniel  Huntington,  presented  by  the  Women's 
Christian  Temperance  Union;  4.  Mrs.  James  K.  Polk,  pre- 
sented by  the  Women  of  Tennessee;  5.  Mrs.  Benjamin 
Harrison,  by  Daniel  Huntington,  presented  by  the  Daughters 
of  the  American  Republic,  of  which  society  she  was  one-time 
president;  6.     Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  by  Chartran. 

Here  also  are  four  marble  busts:  1.  Martin  Van  Buren;  2.  John 
Bright;  3.  Christopher  Columbus;  4.  Amerigo  Vespucci  (the  two  last 
named  are,  together  with  the  bust  of  Washington  in  the  East  Room, 
among    the    earliest    art    acquisitions    of    the    White    House). 

Ascending  the  stairs  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  the  Cen- 
tral Corridor  of  the  main  floor,  which  formerly  traversed 
the  entire  building  from  E.  to  W.,  but  now  terminates  at 
the  point  where  its  western  extremity  was  incorporated  into 
the  State  Dining-Room    (p.   120). 

In  this  corridor  are  the  portraits  of  several  of  the  more 
recent  Presidents : 

1.  Chester  A.  Arthur,  by  Daniel  Huntington;  2.  Grover 
Cleveland,  by  Eastman  Johnson;  3.  Benjamin  Harrison,  by 
Eastman  Johnson;  4.    James  A.  Garfield,  by  E.  F.  Andrezvs; 


THE    WHITE    HOUSE  117 

5.  William  McKinley,  by  August  Benzigcr  (b.  1867)  ;  6. 
Theodore  Roosevelt,  by  John  S.  Sargent;  7.  William 
H.  Taft,  by  Zorn. 

The  middle  room  on  the  S.  side  is  a  large  oval  apart- 
ment, extending  beneath  the  curving  southern  portico  and 
formerly  known  as   the  Diplomatic  Room. 

The  reason  why  this  room  never  served  its  intended  purpose  is 
that,  while  the  White  House  was  originally  intended  to  face  the  south, 
with  main  entrance  on  the  present  basement  level,  the  northwest  growth 
of  the  city  necessitated  transferring  the  entrance  to  the  higher  level 
of   the   Pennsylvania   Ave.    fagade. 

The  western  half  of  the  ground  floor  is  now  occupied  by 
the  steward's  departments,  the  storerooms,  large  and  small 
kitchens,  heating  apparatus  and  refrigerators.  In  the  lower 
story  of  the  west  terrace  wing  are  the  laundry  and  ironing 
rooms,  the  maids'  dining-room  and  separate  quarters  for  the 
men  and  women  servants. 

The  Main  Floor  is  occupied  by  the  state  departments, 
with  the  one  exception  of  the  family  dining-room,  which  with 
the  adjoining  pantry  is  situated  in  the  N.W.  corner,  W.  of 
main  Entrance  Hall.  South  of  the  Entrance  Hall,  across  the 
corridor,  is  the  elliptical  Blue  Room,  with  the  Red  Room  on 
the  West  adjoining  the  State  Dining  Room,  and  the  Green 
Room  on  the  East  adjoining  the  great  East  Room,  which 
occupies  the  entire  width  of  the  East  wing. 

Anyone  entering  the  White  House  by  the  central  northern 
entrance,  finds  himself  in  the  spacious  Vestibule  or  Reception 
Hall,  which  is  in  itself  an  impressive  apartment,  measuring 
40x50  ft.,  and,  like  all  the  rooms  of  the  main  story,  22  ft. 
from  floor  to  ceiling.  The  floor  and  base  of  wainscot  (as  in 
the  case  of  the  central  corridor)  are  of  Joliet  stone;  the 
walls  and  ceiling  are  of  plaster,  finished  in  buff  and  white. 
At  (the  S.  end  there  was  formerly  a  much  admired  but 
inappropriate  screen  of  Tiffany  glass,  dividing  the  Reception 
Hall  from  the  corridor.  This  screen  has  been  replaced  by 
a  row  of  six  columns.  Two  large  tubs  of  Istrian  stone,  con- 
taining plants,  occupy  the  spaces  between  the  columns,  on 
each  side  of  the  central  opening.  The  E.  and  W.  wall  spaces 
are  occupied  in  part  by  two  spacious  mirrors,  extending 
from  floor  to  ceilng.  The  Hall  is  lighted  by  bronze  standards 
and  a  central  bronze  lantern,  directly  beneath  which  the 
President's  seal,  in  yellow  bronze,  is  inlaid  in  the  stone 
flooring.  Similarly,  between  the  central  columns  is  inlaid  an 
ellipse  of  forty-five  stars   surrounding  the  dates  "1702-1902." 


n8  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Through  the  central  corridor,  whether  entering  through 
the  Vestibule  or  by  way  of  the  Ground  Floor,  the  visitor 
proceeds  to  the  East  Room,  the  one  apartment  thrown  open  to 
the  general  public.  It  is  the  largest  room  in  the  White  House, 
measuring  40x60  feet.  The  walls  of  this  room  are  covered 
with  enameled  wood  paneling,  set  into  which  are  twelve  bas- 
relief  panels,  representing  themes  taken  from  Aesop's  "Fables" 
(executed  by  Piccirilli  Bros.).  The  window  draperies  are  of 
heavy  yellow  silk  damask.  Velvet  cushioned  seats  surround 
the  walls,  but  there  are  no  chairs  in  this  room,  and  the  walls 
are  bare  of  pictures,  the  portraits  of  General  and  Mrs.  Wash- 
ington, which  formerly  hung  here,  having  been  transferred 
to  the  Red  Room  (p.  120).  One  notable  work  of  art,  how- 
ever, is  the  famous  so-called  "gold  piano,"  valued  at  over 
$20,000.  The  inside  of  the  lid  contains  a  much  admired 
painting  of  the  Muses. 

Standing  on  cabinets  set  against  the  E.  wall,  are  two 
beautiful  blue  Sevres  vases,  presented  to  President  McKinley 
by  the  President  of  France  in  commemoration  of  the  laying 
of  the  Franco-American  cable. 

The  room  is  lighted  by  four  bronze  candelabra,  placed 
respectively  in  the  four  corners ;  also  by  three  massive  crystal 
chandeliers,  suspended  along  the  centre  of  the  ceiling.  The 
latter  date  from  1902.  The  original  chandeliers  installed  in 
President  Grant's  administration  were  removed  before  the  re- 
modeling oif  the  White  House,  reconstructed  and  are  now 
serving  in  various  Committee  Rooms  of  the  Capitol. 

The  East  Room,  which  Mrs.  Adams  once  used  as  a  drying-room,  was 
originally  intended  as  a  State  Banquet  Hall,  and  was  used  as  such 
until  1827,  since  which  time  it  has  been  the  State  Reception  Room. 
Prior  to  the  restoration  of  the  White  House  in  1902,  it  was  once  again 
used  occasionally  for  large  official  banquets. 

This  room  has  witnessed  many  historic  scenes,  both  joyous  and 
tragic.  Among  the  brilliant  weddings  that  have  here  been  celebrated 
were  those  of:  Nellie  Grant  to  Algernon  Sartoris,  May  21st,  1874; 
Alice  Roosevelt  to  Nicholas  Longworth,  February  17th,  1906;  Jessie 
Wloodrow  Wilson  to  Francis  B.  Sayre,  November  25th,  19 13.  Among 
the  many  eminent  Americans  who  have  lain  in  State  in  this  same  room 
were:  President  Zachary  Taylor,  Col.  Ellsworth  of  the  N.  Y.  Zouaves, 
May  24-27,  1861;  Willy  Lincoln,  March  20th,  1862;  President 
Lincoln,  April  19th,  1865;  President  Garfield,  "'"Sept.  /  20,  1881; 
The  wife  and  daughter  of  Secretary  Tracy,  February  5th,  1890; 
President  McKinley,  1898;  and  the  first  wife  of  Presidentl  Wilson, 
August  7,    1 9 14. 

The  Green  Room,  reached  either  through  doorway  at 
SW.  cor.  of  the  East  Room,  or  through  the  central  corridor, 
is  a  much  smaller  apartment,  measuring  30x22  ft.  Nearly 
everything  in  this  room  is  new,  including  the  mantel,  the 
furniture,  rug  and  chandelier.    The  wall  coverings  and  window 


THE    WHITE    HOUSE  119 

curtains  are  of  green  velvet,  copied  from  an  old  piece  of 
Genoese  velvet.  On  the  walls  of  this  room  are  the  portraits 
of  the  following  Presidents: 

1.  John  Quincy  Adams,  by  G.  P.  A.  Hcaly;  2.  Andrew 
Jackson,  by  E.  F.  Andrews;  3.  Martin  Van  Buren,  by  Healy; 
4.  William  Henry  Harrison,  by  Andrews;  5.  Franklin 
Pierce,  by  Hcaly;  6.  James  Buchanan,  by  Andrews;  7, 
Abraham  Lincoln,  Artist  unknown;  8.  Andrew  Johnson,  by 
Andrezvs;  9.     Rutherford  B.  Hayes,  by  Daniel  Huntington. 

Through  the  western  door  of  the  Green  Room  we  enter 
the  Blue  Room,  an  elliptical  apartment  measuring  30x40  ft., 
and  generally  admitted  to  be  the  most  beautiful  room  in  the 
White  House.  The  wall  covering  is  a  heavy  corded  blue  silld 
embroidered  at  top  and  bottom  with  a  Grecian  fret.  The 
curtain  hangings  are  of  the  same  material,  embroidered  with 
stars,  and  the  curtain  poles  are  surmounted  by  gilt  eagles. 
The  furniture  is  white  and  gold,  upholstered  in  blue  and  gold. 
The  mantel,  dating  from  the  restoration  in  1902,  is  of  pure 
white  marble,  the  shelf  being  supported  on  bundles  of  arrows 
carved  in  marble  with  bronze  tips  and  feathers.  On  the 
mantel  stands  a  massive  gold  clock,  said  to  have  been  the 
gift  of  Napoleon  I  to  Lafayette,  and  presented  by  the  latter 
to  George  Washington. 

Blind  doors  are  in  the  walls  near  the  southern  end  of  the  room, 
and  at  receptions  the  guests  coming  from  the  Red  Room  pass  the 
receiving  party  standing  in  a  single  line  directly  in  front  of  the 
windo.vs.  The  guests  especially  invited  to  share  the  Blue  Room 
with  the  receiving  party,  face  the  President.  A  silken  cord  is  stretched 
across  the  room  from  door  to  door  to  insure  freedom  of  passage  for 
the   guests   while  being  presented. 

The  Blue  Room  was  originally  the  President's  dining-room,  and 
was  known  variously  as  the  "Circular  Room,"  "Elliptical  Dining-room," 
and  later  "Oval  Reception  Room."  Under  the  Madison  regime  it  was 
hung  with  yellow  damask;  this  gave  place  successively  to  old  rose, 
green  and  then  for  the  first  time  under  the  Van  Buren  administra- 
tion, to  blue.  During  Johnson's  Presidency  it.  was  changed  to  red; 
while  Grant  was  President  it  reverted  to  blue,  which  has  remained 
its  distinctive  color  ever  since,  the  only  variation  having  occurred 
during  the  Arthur  administration,  when  the  room  was  redecorated  by 
Tiffany,  and  the  pale  tint  adopted  caused  it  to  be  temporarily  called 
the    "Robin's   Egg   Room." 

This  has  long  been  the  favorite  room  for  White  House  "weddings. 
Among  them  may  be  mentioned  the  following:  i.  Maria  Hester  Monroe 
(daughter  of  the  President)  to  Samuel  Lawrence  Gouverneur,  March 
9th,  1820;  2.  Mary  Hellen  (niece  of  Mrs.  John  Quincy  Adams)  to 
John  Adams  (son  of  the  President),  February  ioth,  1828;  3.  Delia 
Lewis  (daughter  of  an  intimate  friend  of  President  Jackson)  to 
Alphonse  Josephe  Yver  Pageot  (Secretary  of  the  French  Legation); 
4.  Mary  Easton  (niece  of  Mrs.  Jackson)  to  Lucius  B.  Polk  (also 
during  the  Jackson  administration);  5.  Elizabeth  Tyler  (third  daughter 
of  the  President)  to  William  Waller,  January  31st,  1842;  6.  Emily 
Piatt    (niece  of  President  Hayes)    to   Gen.   Russell  Hastings,   June    19th, 


120  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

1878;  7.  Frances  Folsom  to  President  Grover  Cleveland,  June  2d, 
1886.  (For  twenty  years,  from  1886  to  1906,  there  were  no  weddings 
in  the  White  House).  8.  Eleanor  Randolph  Wilson  (youngest  daugh- 
ter of  the  President)  to  William  G.  McAdoo  (Secretary  of  the  Treas- 
ury),  May   7th,   1 9 14. 

It  was  in  the  Blue  Room  that  a  brilliant  reception  was  given  to 
the  Infanta  Eulalie,  daughter  of  the  Queen  Regent  of  Spain,  May  19th, 
1893. 

The  Red  Room,  situated  immediately  W.  of  the  Blue 
Room,  corresponds  in  position  and  dimensions  to  the  Green 
Room  (see  above).  This  room  is  wainscoted  in  white  enamel; 
the  wall  covering  and  curtains  are  of  red  velvet,  and  the 
furniture  is  upholstered  in  red  damask.  The  room  contains  a 
richly  carved  mahogany  cabinet,  ornamented  with  gold,  in 
which  are  seven  exquisitely  dressed  male  and  female  Japanese 
dolls,  the  whole  constituting  a  present  to  Mrs.  Roosevelt 
from  the  Japanese  Legation.  On  the  walls  of  the  room  are 
a  number  of  portraits,  including  the  historic  full-length  por- 
trait of  George  Washington,  which  formerly  hung  in  the  East 
Room  and  was  long  attributed  to  Gilbert  Stuart,  but  is  now 
admitted  to  be  a  copy  by  an  obscure  English  artist. 

The  traditional  story  still  told  to  visitors  is  that  Mrs.  Dolly  Madi- 
son cut  this  painting  from  its  frame  with  a  pair  of  scissors  to  save  it 
from  destruction  by  the  British,  and  carried  it  with  her  in  her  fight 
from  the  Capital.  But  according  to  the  testimony  of  her  own  letters, 
the  painting  was  entrusted  to  the  care  of  Mr.  Custis,  a  nephew  of 
Washington,  who  had  come  post-haste  from  Arlington  to  save  it.  The 
canvas  was  not  cut  or  otherwise  damaged,  for  a  servant  broke  and 
removed!  the  outer  frame,  leaving  the  picture  intact. 

Here  also  is  a  portrait  of  Martha  Washington,  by  E.  F. 
Andrews,  painted  in  1878.  Being  a  modern  work,  its  chief 
interest  centers  in  the  fact  that  the  dress  is  a  faithful  repro- 
duction of  a  masquerade  costume  made  in  Paris,  and  worn 
at  a  Martha  Washington  Centennial  Tea  Party,  given  in 
Philadelphia  in  1876.    The  other  portraits  in  this  room  are : 

1.  John  Adams,  by  G  P.  A.  Healy;  2.  Thomas  Jefferson, 
by  E.  F.  Andrews;  3.  James  Madison,  Artist  unknown; 
4.  James  Monroe,  Artist  unknown;  5.  Zachary  Taylor,  by 
Andrews;  6.  James  K.  Polk,  by  Healy;  7.  Ulysses  S.  Grant, 
by  Le  Clair. 

The  State  Dining-room,  adjoining  the  Red  Room  on 
the  W.,  is  now  the  second  largest  room  in  the  White  House, 
thanks  to  its  enlargement  in  1902,  whereby,  instead  of  accom- 
modating from  50  to  60  guests,  it  can  now  seat  a  maximum  of 
107.  The  walls  are  paneled  from  floor  to  ceiling  in  dark 
English  oak,  richly  carved;  the  chandelier  and  wall-branches 
are  of   silver ;   around  the   frieze  are  placed  mounted  heads 


THE    WHITE    HOUSE  121 

of  American  Game;  on  the  floor  is  an  Indian  carpet  in  solid 
color;  the  window  draperies  are  in  green  velvet.  In  this 
room  are  two  tapestries  of  17th  century  Flemish  workmanship, 
the  one  over  the  mantel  illustrating  a  scene  from  Vergil's 
"Eighth  Eclogue,"  and  inscribed  with  the  following  quotation 
(in  Latin)  : 

"Nysa  is  given  in  marriage  to  Mopsus!  What  may  not  we  lovers 
expect? 

Griffins  now  snail  mate  with  horses,  and  in  the  succeeding  age  the 
timorous  does  shall  come  to   drink   with  dogs. 

Begin  with   me,   my  flute,   Maenalian  strains. 

Mopsus,  cut  fresh  nuptial  torches;  for  a  wife  is  on  the  point  of 
being  brought  home." 

The  Family  Dining-room,  directly  N.  of  the  State 
Dining-room,  is  finished  in  green.  It  is  reached  from  the 
second  floor  by  a  private  staircase.  The  Main  Stairway  to 
the  second  floor  leads  from  the  E.  wing  of  the  central 
corridor.  It  is  constructed  of  Joliet  stone,  and  consists  of  a 
broad  flight  from  the  main  floor  to  the  landing,  where  it 
divides  into  two  flights.  A  double  gate  of  wrought  iron, 
which  rolls  back  into  pockets  in  the  walls,  stands  at  the  foot 
of  the  staircase. 

The  Second  Story,  known  as  the  "Family  Floor,"  is 
devoted  J;o  the  living  rooms  of  the  President's  family,  guest- 
chambers  and  the  President's  private  office  and  library.  As 
on  the  floor  below,  the  Family  Floor  has  a  wide  corridor, 
running  E.  and  W.,  connecting  two  large  sitting-rooms,  one 
on  the  E.,  above  the  East  Room,  the  other  on  the  W.,  above 
the  State  Dining-room.  There  are  seven  bed-rooms  on  this 
floor,  each  with  an  adjoining  bathroom.  The  four  largest  are 
situated  respectively  in  the  four  corners,  and  each  includes  a 
small  dressing-room.  The  N.W.  bed-room  was  President 
Arthur's  rooimi,  and  later  the  Clevelands'  sleeping-iroom.  Dur- 
ing the  Harrison  administration  it  was  converted  into  a 
nursery  for  the  young  McKees.  The  opposite  suite,  in  the 
S.W.  cor.,  was  occupied  by  Miss  Rose  Cleveland  during  part 
of  President  Cleveland's  first  term.  In  this  room  Mrs.  Har- 
rison died ;  and  here  also  President  Garfield  was  brought 
after  being  wounded  by  the  assassin,  Guiteau.  The  bed-room 
immediately  E.,  and  directly  over  the  Green  Room,  was  long 
known  as  the  "Prince  of  Wales'  Room."  Among  the  Presi- 
dents who  have  occupied  it  are  Grant  and  Benjamin  Harrison. 
This  is  the  room  which  was  assigned  to  Miss  Frances  Folsom 
on  the  eve  of  her  marriage  to  President  Cleveland.  Subse- 
quently, it  was  transformed  into  a  nursery  for  Ruth  Cleveland. 


122  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  next  room  to  the  E.,  an  oval  apartment,  directly  over 
the  Blue  Room,  is  now  the  President's  Library.  Beyond 
the  Library,  and  opposite  the  main  stairway,  is  the  President's 
study  and  private  office,  formerly  known  and  used  as  the 
"Cabinet  Room."  On  the  marble  mantel  is  the  following 
inscription : 

"This  room  was  first  used  for  meetings  of  the  Cabinet  during  the 
administration  of  President  Johnson.  It  continued  to  be  so  used  until 
the  year  MCMII.     Here  the  treaty  of  peace  with  Spain  was  signed." 

The  entire  eastern  half  of  the  attic  floor  is  used  for  stor- 
age purposes.  In  the  western  half  are  the  servants'  bed-rooms 
and  bath-room. 

IV.     Other  Buildings  in  the  Executive  Grounds 
a.    The  Treasury  Building 

**The  United  States  Treasury  Building  (PI.  II— D4)  at 
the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  15th  St.,  is  an  imposing 
rectangular  granite  structure,  extending  468  ft.  N.  to  S.,  and 
264  ft.  E.  to  W. ;  or  inclusive  of  porticoes  and  steps  582  x  300 
ft.  The  order  is  pure  Grecian  Ionic,  the  columns  and  pilas- 
ters rising  through  the  three  stories  of  the  superstructure, 
above  which  is  an  attic.  Below  are  two  basement  stories,  the 
lower  one  being  rustic.  The  building  is  surmounted  by  a 
stone  balustrade.  The  original  section,  now  the  east  wing, 
was  designed  by  Robert  Mills;  the  N.,  S.  and  W.  extensions 
by  Thomas  U.  Walter. 

The  site  of  the  Treasury  Building  was  formerly  occu- 
pied by  two  brick  Department  buildings,  corresponding  in 
general  design  with  the  old  War  and  Navy  Buildings,  W.  of 
the  White  House  (p.  126).  The  northernmost,  or  State 
Department  Building  was  erected  in  January,  1820,  approxi- 
mately where  the  north  wing  of  the  present  building  now 
stands,  while  the  south  wing  covers  the  site  of  the  original 
Treasury  Building,  contracted  for  by  the  Federal  City  Com- 
missioners, June  23d,  1798,  at  an  estimated  cost  of  $39,511. 
This  was  one  of  the  buildings  destroyed  by  the  British  in 
1814.  The  second  Treasury  Building,  erected  on  the  same 
site,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1833.  It  was  determined  that 
the  new  edifice  should  be  built  upon  a  much  more  imposing 
scale,  and  the  plans  drawn  by  Robert  Mills  were  accepted. 
By  Act  of  Congress,  dated  July  4th,  1836,  the  President  was 
directed  to  cause  a  site  to  be  selected.  It  was  the  intention 
of  the  Committee  in  charge  to  choose  a  position  such  that 
the  proposed   structure  would  not  interfere   with  an  uninter- 


TREASURY    BUILDING  123 

rupted  view  along  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  from  the  Capitol  to  the 
White  House.  Through  lack  of  unanimity  of  opinion,  the 
choice  was  so  long  delayed  that  President  Jackson,  so  the 
story  goes,  becoming  impatient  one  day,  thrust  his  walking- 
stick  into  the  ground  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  what  is  now  the 
eastern  wing,  exclaiming,  "Here,  right  here,  I  want  the 
cornerstone  laid."  This  story  is  corroborated  by  testimony 
given  by  the  architect  in  1836,  before  a  Congressional  com- 
mittee to  the  effect  that  the  precise  position  of  the  building 
had  been  "determined  by  the  positive  directions  of  the  late 
President." 

The  older  portion  of  the  Treasury  Building,  designed 
by  Robert  Mills,  was  commenced  in  1836,  and  finished  in  1841, 
at  a  cost  of  $660,773.  It  was  T-shaped,  consisting  of  a  colon- 
nade facing  E.,  and  extending  340  ft.  along  15th  St.,  and  a 
central  wing  projecting  W.  170  ft.  The  facing  of  the  outer 
walls  and  the  thirty  Ionic  columns  of  the  colonnade,  were  of 
Acquia  Creek  sandstone.  In  1855  it  had  become  evident  that 
the  Treasury  Department  had  quite  outgrown  its  quarters, 
and  Thomas  U.  Walter  was  entrusted  with  the  task  of  plan- 
ning enlargements  on  an  extensive  scale.  His  designs  called 
for  the  erection  of  a  N.  and  S.  wing,  extending  westward  264 
ft.,  and  connected  by  a  W.  wing  which,  uniting  midway  with 
the  old  central  wing,  formed  a  parallelogram,  enclosing  two 
square  courts.  Work  on  the  extensions  was  begun  in  1855, 
after  Congress  had  passed  an  appropriation  of  $300,000.  In 
1861  the  S.  wing  was  completed.  Further  progress  was  de- 
layed during  the  Civil  War,  and  it  was  not  until  1869  that  the 
final  touches  were  put  to  the  entrance  portico  of  the  N.  wing. 
The  edifice,  begun  by  Young,  from  Walter's  designs,  was  con- 
tinued by  Rogers  and  completed  by  Mullett,  at  a  cost  of 
approximately  $6,000,000. 

All  of  the  Treasury  extensions,  including  the  huge  mono- 
lithic columns  and  pilasters,  are  of  granite  from  Dix  Island, 
Maine.  It  was  of  these  monoliths,  lying  along  the  street,  en- 
cased in  wood,  during  the  Civil  War,  that  "Bull  Run"  Rus- 
sell, correspondent  of  the  London  Times,  taking  a  pessimistic 
view  of  the  Capital  City's  future  fate,  wrote  that  they  were 
"lying  there  in  their  wooden  coffins,  with  their  heads  as  near 
Heaven  as  they  would  ever  get  to  be."  For  nearly  two-score 
years  the  artistic  unity  of  this  building  remained  marred  by 
the  incongruity  of  its  three  granite  and  one  sandstone 
facades ;  but  at  last,  in  1907-08,  the  sandstone  facing  and  drum 
columns  of  the  E.  wing  were  replaced  by  granite  from  Mil- 
ford,  New  Hampshire. 


124  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  first  Inaugural  Ball  of  President  Grant  was  held,  in 
1869,  in  the  north  front  of  this  building. 

The  Treasury  Building  contains  thei  offices  of  the  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  and  his  Staff,  and  the  following  fiscal  bureaus  and  offices: 
Comptroller  of  the  Currency;  Treasurer  of  the  United  States;  Com- 
missioner of  Internal  Revenue;  Director  of  the  Mint  and  Bureau  of  the 
Budget.  The  last  named,  most  recent  of  all  the  Bureaus,  was  created 
by  Act  approved  June  10,  192 1.1  Its  chief  duties  are  to  prepare  for  the 
President  the  annual  Budget,  and  such  supplemental  estimates  as  he  may 
recommend  from  time  to  time  to  Congress.  The  Treasury  Building 
also  contains  the  office  of  the  supervising  Architect,  whose  duties  include 
the  construction,  alteration  and  repairs  of  all  public  buildings,  and 
securing  cessions  from  States  of  jurisdiction  over  sites,  and  payment 
for  same. 

Today  there  is  comparatively  little  to  be  seen  by  the 
casual  tourist  within  the  Treasury  Building.  The  operation 
of  printing  all  paper  money,  postage  and  revenue  stamps  is 
now  conducted  at  the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Print'ng. 
The  famous  Silver  and  Gold  Vaults,  in  which  is  stored 
the  greater  portion  of  the  Government's  gold  and  silver 
reserve,  situated  in  the  sutHbasement,  beneath  the  N.  wing, 
are  shown  only  to  visitors  personally  known  to  the  Treasurer. 
These  vaults  are  protected  not  only  by  combination  and  time- 
locks,  but  still  further  by  an  electrical  protection  system.  It 
is  said  that  upward  of  $100,000,000  isi  stored  in  one  of  these 
vaults. 

The  main  entrance  is  beneath  the  N.  Portico,  facing- 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  Along  the  walls  of  the  entrance  hall,  and 
along  the  North  Corridor,  are  cases  containing  numerous  in- 
teresting exhibits,  all  fully  labelled.     They  include: 

Entrance  Hall,  E.  Side:  1.  Redeemed!  fractional  currency,  1862-76 
issues;  Old  keys  to  Treasury  Vaults  and  money  boxes,  before  the 
introduction  of  combination  locks;  2.  Specimens  of  redeemed  mutilated 
bills;   3.  Specimens  of   Gold  and  Silver!  bars  of  various  sizes1  and  purity. 

West  Side:  1.  Case  containing  rolled  strips  of  gold  from  which 
Double  Eagle,  Eagle,  Half  and  Quarter  Eagle  gold  planchets  are 
punched;  also  coin-gold  ingot  for  Eagles,  weight,  113  oz.,  900  fine,  value, 
$2102  (cuts  130  planchets);  2,  Minor  coins  and  planchets;  bars  of 
nickel  for  5  cent  pieces,  weight  21  2/10  lbs.,  value  $3.60  (cuts  1200 
planchets)  ;  Bar  of  bronze  for  one  cent  pieces,  weight  23  lbs.,  value 
$3.45   (cuts  210a  planchets). 

North  Corridor,  South  Side  (W.  to  E.):  1.  Presidential  Medals; 
2.  Navy  Medals;  3.  Army  Medals;  4.  Original  hand-engraved  dies  for 
coin;  specimen  of  transfer  order  of  $60,000,000  from  Denver  to  N.  Y. 
Sub-Treasury;  Grant  of  $200,000  to  General  Lafayette  for  services 
during  the   Revolution. 

On  N.  side  of  aisle,  near  E.  end,  hangs  the  *Flag  draped 
above  box  occupied  by  President  Lincoln,  in  Ford's  Theatre. 
April  14,  1865.  The  rip  in  lower  edge  of  flag  was  made  by 
Booth's  spur  where  it  caught  as  he  leaped  from  the  box  after 
shooting  the  President. 


TREASURY    BUILDING  125 

The  Cash  Room,  diagonally  opposite  the  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  entrance,  is  the  show  room  of  the  Treasury  Building, 
and  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  costliest  in  the  world.  It  extends 
upward  through  two  stories,  and  is  best  seen  from  the  gallery 
(open  daily  from  9  A.M.  to  2  P.M.;  no  pass  required). 

The  lower  story  has  a  stylobate  base  of  black  Vermont  marble, 
with  mouldings  of  Bordiglio  (Italian)  marble,  and  panels  of  Sienna 
marble.  Above  this  base  are  pilasters  of  black-veined  Italian  marble, 
and  panels  of  Bordiglio  marble.  The  upper  story  is  like  the  lower, 
excepting  that  some  of  the  panels  are  of  Sarrangolum  marble,  from 
the  Pyrenees. 

As  its1  name  implies  the  Cash  Room  is  a.  cashier's  office,  where  the 
Treasury  cashes  the  various  warrants  drawn  upon  it,  and  presented 
here   for   payment.      The   daily  transactions   run   into    millions. 

North  of  the  Treasury  Building  in  front  of  main  entrance  is  a 
fountain  consisting  of  an  immense  granite  vase,  the  tassa  of  which, 
measuring   12  ft.   in   diameter,  is  carved  from  one  solid  block  of   granite. 

In  Sherman  Plaza,  facing  the  S.  front  of  the  Treasury 
building,  stands  the  *Monument  to  Gen.  William  Tecumseh 
Sherman  (1820-91),  designed  by  Carl  Rohl-Smith.  It  con- 
sists of  an  equestrian  statue  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  supported 
on  a  lofty  pedestal  of  Vermont  granite,  standing  on  an  emi- 
nence and  approached  from  all  four  sides  by  a  series  of  stone 
steps.  At  the  four  corners  of  the  spacious  base  stand  bronze 
figures  of  young  soldiers  in  uniforms  of  the  Civil  War  period, 
representing,  respectively,  the  Cavalry,  Infantry,  Artillery 
and  Engineers.  The  adornments  of  the  pedestal  consist  of : 
1.  Commemorative  inscriptions;  2.  Symbolic  groups  repre- 
senting War  and  Peace;  3.  A  series  of  four  bas-relief  tablets 
representing  leading  episodes  in  Sherman's  military  career ; 
4.  Medallions  of  the  principal  officers  on  Sherman's  staff. 
These  are  placed  as  follows : 

North  side:  Bas-relief  represents  "Sherman's  March 
through  Georgia" ;  below  are  the  following  inscriptions  from 
his  public  utterances : 

"On  no  earthly  account  will  I  do  any  act  or  think  any  thought 
hostile  to  or  in  defiance  of  the  old  government  of  the  United  States," 
Alexandria,  Louisiana,  Jan.   18th,  1861. 

"War's  legitimate  object  is  more  perfect  peace,"  Washington, 
D.   C,  Feb.   23d,   1882. 

West  side:  Symbolic  group,  "War."  "War  personifies  a 
terrible  woman  who  tramples  humanity  under  foot.  She  is 
attended  by  Vultures,  illustrating  Sherman's  famous  comment, 
'War  is  Hell,'"  Mrs.  Carl  Rohl-Smith.  Below  (to  L.  and  R.) 
four  medallion  portraits,  by  Mrs.  Theodore  A.  R.  Kitson,  of 
Boston:  Logan,  Blair,  Ransom  and  Dodge;  in  the  middle: 
bas-relief.  "Sherman  at  the  camp-fire." 


126  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

"It  was  singularly  impressive,"  says  one  biographer,  "to  see  this 
soldierly  figure  walking  there  by  the  flickering  camp-fire,  while  the 
army  slept." 

South  side:  Bas-relief  depicting  the  "Battle  of  Atlanta"; 
note  especially  the  remarkable  perspective;  Sherman  and  his 
staff  are  watching  the  progress  of  an  engagement  taking  place 
two  or  three  miles  away  and  largely  obscured  by  the  smoke 
of  battle.  The  names  of  the  principal  officers  and  regiments 
are  inscribed  along  the  base  of  the  tablet. 

East  side:  Symbolic  group,  "Peace,"  representing  "a 
young  girl  with  flowering  branch  of  a  fruit  tree;  at  her  feet, 
onone  side,  the  strong  succors  the  weak;  on  the  other  side, 
animals  are  being  fed,  thus  symbolizing  the  ideal  and  material 
sides  of  life,"  Mrs.  Rohl-Smith;  below  (to  L.  and  R.)  : 
medallion  portraits  of  A.  G.  Smith,  Grierson,  Howard  and 
McPherson.  In  the  center,  bas-relief,  "Sherman  at  Mission- 
ary Ridge." 

The_  monument  was  unveiled  in  1903.  The  cost  was  borne  by 
the  Society  of  the  Army  of  Tennessee,  which  contributed  $11,000, 
and  by  the  United  States.  An  offer  was  made  of  $90,000  for  com- 
petitive designs,  and  the  competition  was  won  by  Carl  Rohl-Smith  in 
Jan.,  1896.  According  to  the  terms  of  the  contract  the  work  was  to 
be  done  in  four  years.  The  sculptor  asked  and  received  a  year's 
extension,  but  died  before  completing  his  task,  in  Copenhagen,  Aug. 
20th,  1900.  The  work  was  so  far  advanced  that  it  was  decided  to 
carry  out  tbe  sculptor's  designs.  The  working  models  of  the  Eques- 
trian and  three  of  the  soldiers  were  completed;  the  four  bas-reliefs 
were  nearly  finished;  and  designs  for  War  and  Peace  had  been  care- 
fully worked  out.  The  completion  of  the  work  was  accomplished  by 
the  aid   of   the  following  artists: 

The  Equestrian)  figure  was  completed  by  Lauritz  Jensen,  of  Copen- 
hagen; they  fourth  soldier  was  modeled  by  Sigvald  Asbjomsen,  of 
Chicago;  Peace  was  finished  by  Stephen  Sinding  and  Carl  J.  Bonnesen, 
of  Copenhagen;   and  War  by  Sinding'  and  Asbjomsen. 

Surrounding  the  monument  and  on  a  level  with  the  Park, 
is  a  spacious  mosaic  pavement  recording  the  names  of  all  the 
battles  in  which  Gen.  Sherman  took  part.  This  was  designed 
by  Mrs.  Rohl-Smith,  for  which  Congress  appropriated  $8000. 

b.     The  State,  War  and  Navy  Building 

The  *State,  War  and  Navy  Building  (PL  II— C4),  until 
the  recent  completion  of  the  new  Interior  Department  Building 
(p.  213),  the  second  largest  Government  edifice  in  Wash- 
ington, occupies  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  17th 
St.,  directly  W.  of  the  White  House.  It  was  designed  by 
A.  B.  Mullett,  supervising  architect  of  the  Treasury,  and  is  a 
conspicuous  example  of  his  fondness  for  Renaissance  architec- 


STATE,    WAR    AND     NAVY    BUILDING        127 

ture.  It  is  on  the  Roman  Doric  order,  and  consists  of  a  huge 
quadrangular  structure,  comprising  a  basement  and  sub- 
basement  of  Maine  granite,  and  a  four-story  superstructure 
of  .  Virginia  granite,  surmounted  by  a  mansard  roof. 
Dimensions :  from  N.  to  S.  567  ft. ;  from  E.  to  W.,  342  ft. ; 
maximum  height,  128  ft.  There  is  a  central  pavilion  with 
stairway  and  portico,  consisting  of  a  two  or  three-storied  col- 
onnade with  the  columns  grouped  in  pairs  on  all  four  fa- 
cades. The  E.  and  W.  pavilions  comprise  six  stories,  inclusive 
of  the  mansard.  The  'building  was  begun  in  1871,  and  the  S. 
paviLion  was  finished  and  occupied  by  the  Department  of 
State  in  1875.  Mr.  'Muillett  was  succeeded  as  supervising  ar- 
chitect by  General  E.  O.  Babcock  and  Col.  T.  L.  Casey,  U.  S. 
Engineers.  The  ibuilding,  finally  completed  in  1893,  covers 
4^2  acres,  and  contains  approximately  two  miles  of  corri- 
dors.    The  total  cost  was   $10,405,850. 

This  building  occupies  an  historic  site.  Here,  in  1799-1801,  was 
erected  the  first  U.  S.  Department  Building  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  State,  War  and  Navy  Departments.  In  1802  the  Post  Office 
Department  was  temporarily  housed  in  this  building.  On  August  25, 
1814,  it  was  burned  during  the  British  occupation.  Subsequently,  two 
brick  buildings  were  erected  on  this  site,  one  of  them  (in  1820)  at  the 
N.  end,  fronting  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  and  occupied  by  the  War  De- 
partment (dimensions  130x60  ft.);  the  other*  (in  1815)  directly  S.,  on 
the  site  of  the  destroyed  building  occupied  by  the  N'avy  Department 
(dimensions  59x57  ft.).  These  buildings  were  demolished  in  1879  to 
make  way  for  the  new  edifice. 

As  its  name  implies,  this  building  formerly  held  the 
principal  offices  of  the  State,  War  and  Navy  Departments, 
the  first  named  occupying  the  southern  section  of  the  build- 
ing; the  second,  the  western  side;  and  the  third,  the  eastern 
side.  Since  the  completion,  however,  of  the  new  Navy  Build- 
ing (p.  346)  all  the  offices  and  bureaus  of  that  Department 
have  been  removed,  with  the  sole  exception  of  the  Navy 
Library. 

Hours.  The  buifding  is  open  to  the  public  week  days, 
holidays  excepted,  from  9  A.  M.  to  2  P.  M. 

iThe  visitor,  approaching  by  the  main  or  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  entrance,  will  note  on  either  side  of  exterior  stairway 
a  number  of  interesting  war  trophies.  They  include  two 
Bronze  Cannon  captured  at  Santiago  in  1898,  and  cast  at 
Douay  respectively  in  1693  and  in  1748;  an  8-in.  Bronze 
Howitzer  surrendered  at  Yorktown,  Oct.  19,  1781 ;  two  small 
Cannon  taken  in  the  War  with  Mexico,  and  named  respectively 
after  the  Evangelists :  "San  Mateo"  and  "San  Marco" ;  and 
an  original  42-pounder  Rodman  Gun,  used  in  defence  of  Fort 
Sumter,  re-enforced  and  rifled  in  Richmond  by  the  Con- 
federates, and  later   recaptured  by  the  Federal   forces. 


128  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

If  the  visitor  upon  entering  applies  at  E.  end  of  North 
Corridor,  an  official  guide  may  be  obtained  to  conduct  him 
through  such  rooms  as  are  open  to  the  public.  A  guide,  how- 
ever, is  not  necessary ;  and  many  tourists  prefer  to  visit  these 
rooms  unattended  and  at  their  leisure. 

The  Offices  of  the  Secretary  of  State  are  situated  in  the 

5.  Corridor,  on  the  second  floor.  The  Secretary's  private 
office  can  be  visited  only  by  those  having  official  business. 
The  Ante-room,  however  (No.  214),  is  open  to  visitors,  and 
contains  an  important  collection  of  ^Portraits  of  former 
Secretaries  of   State. 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Elihu  Root,  Sec.  of.  State 
1905-09  (Roosevelt's  Administration)  ;  2.  Thomas  S.  Bayard, 
Sec.  of  .'State  1885-89  (Cleveland's  Admin.)  ;  3.  John  C. 
Calhoun,  Sec.  of  State  1842-46  (Tyler's  Admin.)  ;  Thomas 
Jefferson,  Sec.  of  State  1 793-1801  (Adams'  Admin.),  by 
C.  L.  Ransom,  after  Wilson  Peak;  5.  T.  Frelinghuysen,  Sec. 
of   State   1884-85    (Arthur's  Admin.),   by  Daniel  Huntington; 

6.  John  W.  Foster,  Sec.  of  State  1892-93  (Harrison's 
Admin.),  by  Henry  Floyd;  7.  William  M.  Evarts,  Sec.  of 
State  1877-81  (Hayes'  Admin.)  ;  8.  Robert  'Smith,  Sec.  of 
State  1809-11  (Madison's  Admin.),  by  Freeman  Thorp;  9. 
Henry  Clay,  Sec.  of  State  1825-29  (John  Quincy  Adams' 
Admin.)  ;  10.  James  G.  Blaine,  Sec.  of  State  1881  and  1889-92 
(Garfield's  and  Harrison's  Admin.)  ;  11.  William  R.  Day,  Sec. 
of  State  1898  (McKinley's  Admin.),  by  Albert  Sterner;  12. 
James  Madison,  Sec.  of  State  1801-09  (Jefferson's  Admin.), 
by  A.    G.  Heaton. 

West  Wall:  (N.  to  S.)  1.  John  Hay,  Sec.  of  State  1898- 
1905  (McKinley's  and  Roosevelt's  Admin.)  ;  2.  William 
Jennings  Bryan,  Sec.  of  State  1913-15  (Wilson's  Admin.), 
by  Irving  R.    Wiles. 

South  Wall:  (W.  to  E.)  1.  Martin  Van  Buren,  Sec.  of 
State  1829-31  (Jackson's  Admin.),  by  E.  E.  Andrews;  2.  John 
Marshall,  Sec.  of  State  1800  (Adams'  Admin.)  ;  3.  John 
Quincy  Adams,    Sec.   of    State    1817-25    (Monroe's    Admin.)  ; 

4.  Edward  Everett,  Sec.  of  State  1852-53  (Fillmore's  Admin.)  ; 

5.  William  R.  Marcy,  Sec.  of  State  1853-57  (Pierce's 
Admin.)  ;  6.  John  M.  Clayton,  Sec.  of  'State  1849-50  (Taylor's 
Admin.)  ;  7.  Louis  McLane,  Sec.  of  State  1853-54  (Pierce's 
Admin.),  by  Hinckley;  8.  Jeremiah  Black,  Sec.  of  State 
1860-61  (Buchanan's  Admin.)  ;  9.  John  Forsyth,  Sec.  of 
State  1834-41,  (Jackson's  and  Van  Buren's  Admin.),  by 
Freeman    Thorp;    10.     William    H.    Seward,    Sec.    of    State 


STATE,    WAR    AND    NAVY    BUILDING        129 

1861-69  (Lincoln's  and  Johnson's  Admin.)  ;  11.  Hamilton 
Fish,  See.  of  State  1869-77  (Grant's  Admin.),  by  Daniel 
Huntington. 

East  Wall:  (S.  to  N.)  1.  John  Sherman,  Sec.  of  State 
1897-98  (McKinley's  Admin.),  by  C.  A.  Whipple;  2.  Philander 
C.  Knox,  Sec.  of  State  1909-13  (Taft's  Admin.),  by  Alphonse 
Jongers. 

The  Diplomatic  Reception  Room,  diagonally  opposite  on 
the  south  corridor,  in  which  the  Secretary  receives  foreign 
Ministers,  also  contains  a  number  of  portraits : 

East  Wall:  (S.  to  N.)  1.  Robert  Bacon,  Sec.  of  State 
1900  (Roosevelt's  A'dmin.),  by  Sorolla  y  Bastida;  2.  Richard 
Olney,  Sec.  of  State  1895-97  (Cleveland's  Admin.),  by 
Hubert  Vos. 

West  Wall:  (N.  to  S.)  1.  Daniel  Webster,  Sec.  of  State 
1841-43  (Wm.  H.  Harrison's  Admin.),  by  G.  P.  A.  Healey; 
2.  Lord  Ashburton,  by  G.  P.  A.  Healey. 

South  Wall :    Walter  Q.  Gresham,  Sec.  of  State. 

The  State  Library  (Room  308),  on  the  third  floor, 
south  corridor,  was  formerly  regarded  as  the  most  interesting 
room  in  the  building  since  it  contained  the  original  Declara- 
tion of  Independence,  which  for  greater  safety  has  recently 
been  transferred  to  the  custody  of  the  Library  of  Congress. 
The  State  Library,  however,  still  possesses  a  number  of 
national  heirlooms  which  merit  a  visit,  including  the  Sword 
of  Washington  and  the  Staff  of  Franklin. 

The  Sword  was  one  of  four  bequeathed  by  Washington  to  his  four 
nephews,  and  was  in  turn  willed  by  Samuel 'Washington  to  his  son  by 
whom  it  was  presented  to  Congress  in  1843.  The  Staff  was  bequeathed 
by  Franklin  to  Washington,  "my  friend  and  the  friend  of  mankind." 
The  will  describes  it  as  "my  fine  crab-tree  walking  stick,  with  a  gold 
head  curiously  wrought  in  the  form  of  the  Cap  of  Liberty.  ...  It 
was  a  present  to  me  from  that  excellent  woman,  Madame  de  Forbach, 
the   dowager   Duchess  of    Deux-Ponts." 

The  Library  is  open  from  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  daily, 
except  Sundays  and  holidays.  It  is  a  reference  library  for 
the  use  of  the  Department  of  State  and  Diplomatic  corps. 
Others,  however,  may  consult  books  by  obtaining  permission 
from  the  Secretary,  Assistant  Secretaries  or  Chief  of  the 
Bureau.  The  collection,  comprising  approximately  70,000 
volumes,  consists  principally  of  works  on  international  law, 
diplomacy,  history,  travel,  foreign  law  and  biographies  of 
statesmen. 

The  Offices  of  the  Secretary  of  War  are  on  the  second 
floor,  west  corridor.     The  Secretary's  Reception  Room   (No. 


130  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

231)    is  open  to  the  public,  and  contains  a  collection  of  por- 
traits  of   former   Secretaries   of   War. 

North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  1.  John  M.  Scofield,  Sec.  of 
War  1868-69  (Johnson's  Admin.),  by  H.  P.  Curtis;  2.  Al- 
phonso  Taft  (father  of  ex-President  Taft),  Sec.  of  War 
1876  (Grant's  Admin.),  by  Daniel  Huntington;  3.  Stephen  B. 
Elkins,  Sec.  of  War  1891-93  (Harrison's  Admin.),  4.  John 
P.  Rawlins,  'Sec.  of  War  1869  (Grant's  Admin.),  by  Robert 
W.  Weir;  5.  Jacob  M.  Dickinson,  Sec.  of  War  1909-11 
(Taft's  Admin.).  In  N.  W.  cor.  stands  a  marble  bust  of 
Edwin    M.    Stanton. 

West  Wall:  (N.  to  S.)  1.  Henry  Stimson,  Sec.  of  War 
1911-13  (Taft's  Admin.),  by  Gari  Melchers;  2.  Lindley  M. 
Garrison,  Sec.  of  War  1913-16  (Wilson's  Adimin.),  by  Emil 
Fuchs. 

South  Wall:    Major  General  Horatio   Gates    (1777). 

East  Wall:  (S.  to  N.)  1.  Major  Gen.  Hugh  L.  Scott, 
Sec.  ad-interim,  Felb.-March  1916  (Wilson's  Admin.)  ;  2. 
Alexander  Ramsey,  Sec.  of  War  1879-81  (Hayes'  Admin.)  ; 
3.  Gen.  William  W.  Belknap,  Sec.  of  War  1869-76  (Grant's 
Admin.),  by  Huntington;  4.  Newton  W.  Baker,  Sec.  of  War 
1916-21  (Wilson's  Admin.)  ;  5.  Robert  T.  Lincoln,  Sec.  of 
War    1876-77    (Grant's   Admin.),   by  D.   Cameron. 

On  W.  Wall  are  flags  from  Fort  Sumter ;  the  one  on  L. 
was  the  Garrison  Flag  that  floated  over  the  Fort  during  the 
bombardment.  See  bronze  tablet.  On  S.  Wall,  above  man- 
tel is  a  case  containing  the  flag  which  wrapped  the  coffin 
of  Abraham  Lincoln  on  the  journey  from  Washington  te 
Springfield,  111.,  April,  1865.  The  clock  on  the  mantel  was 
installed  by  Jefferson  Davis  when  Secretary  of  War  in  1853. 

The  S.  door  leads  through  an  intermediate  room  to  the 
Secretary  of  War's  private  office.  (Not  open  to  visitors 
except  on  'business).  In  this  office  hang  the  following  pic- 
tures : 

North  Wall:  Elihu  Root,  Sec.  of  War  1899-1904,  by 
Madrazo  ;  East  Wall:  ^General  Henry  Knox,  First  Secre- 
tary of  War  1789,  by  Young  after  Gilbert  Stuart;  South 
Wall :   Edwin  M.   Stanton,  by  Henry   Ulke. 

In  the  •  intermediate  room  are  the  following  portraits : 
East  Wall :  1.  James  McHenry,  Sec.  of  War  1796,  by 
Daniel  Huntington,  after  Pollock;  2.  Alexander  J.  Dallas, 
Sec.  ad-interim  1815,  by  Ph.  Morton;  3.  William  H.  Craw- 
ford, Sec.  of  War  1815,  by  Huntington  afte.  •  John  Wesley 
Jarvis.      North    Wall:'    1.  "William    C.    Everett;    2.    Russell 


THE    OLD     RESIDENTIAL    SECTION  131 

Alger;  3.  Jefferson  Davis,  1853-57,  by  Huntington.  West  Wall: 
1.  George  W.  Crawford,  1849-50,  by  Huntington;  2.  Gen. 
Peter  B.  Porter,  1828,  by  Huntington  after  Weir.  South 
Wall:  1.  Luke  T.  Wright;  2.  John  C.  Calhoun,  1817,  by 
Jarvis. 

The  Navy  Department  Library,  situated  on  the  fourth 
floor,  east  corridor,  is  primarily  for  the  use  of  the  Officers 
of  the  Navy,  and  is  officially  closed  to  the  general  public. 
Visitors,  however,  will  usually  be  admitted  to  the  Reception 
Room,  considered  the  finest  apartment  in  the  building.  It 
measures  30  x  50  ft.,  with  iron  walls  inlaid  with  32  marble 
panels  of  Malachite,  Sienna  and  Porphyry,  given  respectively 
by  France,  Italy  and  Spain.  The  Onyx  disks  that  adorn  the 
balcony  rail  were  presented  by  Mexico,  and  the  inlaid  floor 
of  Minton  tiling  by  England.  All  these  gifts  were  made 
during  Grant's  Administration.  Especially  notable  are  the 
four  candelabra,  consisting  of  bronze  figures  weighing  800 
lbs.  each,  which  occupy  the  four  corners,  and  represent 
respectively:  1.  War  and  Peace;  2.  Liberty;  3.  Industry  and 
Mechanics ;  4.  Literature,  Arts  and  Commerce.  Outside, 
above  entrance  door,  is  a  stone  brought  from  Pompeii. 

The  resources  of  the  Library  are  approximately  50,000  vols.,  ex- 
clusive of  public  documents  which  have  never  been  accessioned.  The 
collection  is  chiefly  technical  and  professional,  and  is  classed  as  one  of 
the  principal  naval  libraries  of  the  world.  Among  its  treasures  are 
manuscript   records  of   the  War  of    18 12. 

The  room  directly  beneath  the  Naval  Library,  formerly 
the  Reception  Room  of  the  Secretary  of  State,  is  now  oc- 
cupied by  General  Pershing. 

The  collection  of  models  of  historic  battleships,  which 
formerly  occupied  the  corridors  of  the  main  floor,  have  been 
removed  to  the  new  Navy  Building  (p.  346). 

In  leaving  by  main  N.  doorway,  the  visitor  should  note  on  E.  Wall 
a  Bronze  Tablet  commemorating  "The  services  and  sufferings  of  the 
243.135  horses  and  mules  employed  bv  the  American  Expeditionary 
Forces   overseas   during  the  great   World   War." 

V.     The  Old  Residential  Section 

(From  C  Street  to  Judiciary  Square) 

C  Street  between  3d  St.  and  John  Marshall  Place,  was, 
until  about  1870,  the  center  of  one  of  the  most  fashionable 
residential  sections  in  Washington.  As  the  center  of  fashion 
shifted  N.  and  W.,  this  locality  remained  a  quiet  back-water, 
scarcely  touched  by  modern  growth.  Most  of  the  old  houses, 
full  of  historic  associations,  are  still  standing. 


132  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Trinity  Church  (founded  1829),  the  third  Protestant 
Episcopal  Church,  occupies  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  C  and  3d  Sts. 
Its  first  edifice  was  on  5th  St.,  between  D  and  E  Sts.,  on  the 
site  now  occupied  by  the  Columbian  Building.  The  present 
church,  dating  from  1851,  is  a  Gothic  structure  of  brown- 
stone,  with  two  octagonal  towers  surmounted  by  spires  sug- 
gestive of  minarets.  In  the  center  of  the  auditorium  the 
ceiling  rises  in  a  spacious  octagon.  This  was  one  of  the 
churches  used  as  hospitals  during  the  Civil  War.  Henry  Clay 
and  Daniel  Webster  both  attended  service  at  Trinity. 

One  block  N.,  on  'the  triangle  formed  by  3d  and  D  Sts. 
and  Indiana  Ave.,  stands  a  bronze  statue  of  Gen.  Albert  Pike 
(1809-91),  a  standing  figure,  heroic  size,  erected  in  1901  by 
the  Masonic  Fraternity.  Below  is  a  seated  bronze  female 
figure  symbolizing  Fame  and  bearing  a  banner.  G.  Trenta- 
nove,  sculptor. 

'No.  318  Indiana  Ave.  was  the  home  of  Chief  Justice 
Taney,  and  here  he  died  in  1864.  No.  324  was  the  last  home 
of  Rear- Admiral  Robley  D.  Evans  ("Fighting  Bob").  It  is 
now  occupied  by  his  married  daughter. 

The  large  old-fashioned  dwelling  opposite  Trinity  Church, 
N.  W.  cor.  of  C  St.,  was  built  in  1849  for  David  Aiken  Hall, 
a  distinguished  member  of  the  District  Bar,  and  an  intimate 
friend  of  Daniel  Webster,  with  whom  he  was  associated  in 
many  legal  battles.  Mr.  Hall's  first  wife  was  daughter  of 
Charles  Bulfinch,  one  of  the  architects  of  the  Capitol.  This 
house  is  now  a  Temporary  Home  for  ex-Union  Soldiers  and 
Sailors,  under  the  Board  of  Charities. 

The  square  brown  house  on  S.  E.  cor.  of  3d  St.,  with  old- 
fashioned  iron  trimmings  and  a  pagoda-like  roof,  is  now 
occupied  (11922)  by  the  Boys'  Club  of  Washington.  It  was 
formerly  for  many  years  the  residence  of  "Duke"  William 
M.  Gwin,  and  in  ante-bellum  days  was  regarded  as  one  of  the 
show  places  of  Washington. 

William  M.  Gwin  was  colleague  of  Fremont  as  Senator  from  Cali- 
fornia. In  earlier  years  he  was  one  of  the  House  members  from 
Mississippi,  and  was  recognized  as  the  millionaire  representative  of  the 
South,  dictating  all  moves  made  in  defense  of  states'  rights  and 
slavery.  He  went  to  Mexico  to  help  Maximilian  establish  his  brief 
Empire,  and  was  rewarded  with  the  empty  title  of  Duke  of   Sonora. 

On  the  fourth  or  S.  W.  cor.  of  3d  St.  is  the  Crosby  House, 
an  unpretentious  rooming  and  boarding  house.  It  was  erected 
about  1836  as  the  private  residence  of  Marshall  Gary  Selden, 
and  was  a  favorite  rendezvous  of  fashionable  society. 

South  on  3d  St.  are  several  interesting  old  houses  on  the 
colonial  order  of  architecture.  No.  219,  regarded  as  one  of 
the  best  examples  of  its  type  in  the  city,  dates  from  1831,  and 


THE    OLD     RESIDENTIAL    SECTION  133 

was  for  some  years  a  popular  Congressional  boarding-house. 
Franklin  Pierce,  Jonathan  Cilley,  James  M.  Mason  and  Robert 
C.  Winthrop  resided  here  while  members  of  Congress.  Diag- 
onally opposite,  1N0.  224,  was  formerly  Mrs.  Beveridge's 
famous  Indian  boarding-house,  which  harbored  such  notables 
as  Red  Cloud,  White  Feather  and  Crazy  Horse.  No.  226 
occupies  the  site  where  Millard  Fillmore  and  John  C.  Calhoun 
once  resided. 

Opposite  on  C  St.,  No.  302,  was  the  house  of  John  W. 
Maun',  Mayor  of  Washington  1852-53,  and  for  many  years 
president  of  the  Bank  of  the  Metropolis  (now  National 
Metropolitan  Bank).  No.  304  was,  from  1839  until  his  death 
in  1867,  the  home  of  Dr.  William  Jones,  whose  wife  was  a 
sister  of  the  late  William  W.  Corcoran.  1  No.  306  was  in  1847 
rented  from  its  owner,  Dr.  Jonas  Green,  by  Robert  C.  Win- 
throp, Speaker  of  :he  House.  The  adjoining  Arizona  Hotel 
occupies  in  part  the  former  site  of  308,  owned  and  occupied 
for  a  time  by  Francis  Scott  Key,  author  of  "The  Star- 
Spangled  Banner,"  whose  widow  sold  it  in  1843. 

No.  315  was  once  the  home  of  Henry  C.  Schoolcraft,  the 
well-known  writer  on  Indian  themes,  and  his  wife,  Mary 
Schoolcraft. 

No.  322  was  the  home  of  Henry  L.  Ellsworth  of  Indiana, 
first  Commissioner  of  Patents  (1836-48),  whose  daughter  in 
1842  dispatched  the  first  telegraph  message  ever  sent  (p.  82)  ; 
it  was  occupied  by  James  Campbell  while  Postmaster  Gen- 
eral (1853-57)  ;  and  later  was  the  home  of  Zenas  C.  Robbins, 
a  prominent  patent  lawyer  and  personal  friend  of  Lincoln. 

Robbins  was  one  of  five  commissioners  appointed  to  organize  a 
local  Police  Force.  It  is  related  that  Lincoln,  upon  meeting  the  newly 
assembled  board,  explained  to  the  five,  naming  them  one  by  one,  that 
he  had  appointed  them  on  this,  that  and  the  other  recommendation, 
concluding  with  the  words,  ''and  I  have  appointed  Mr.  Robbins  to 
please    myself." 

The  second  house  to  the  W.,  No.  326,  was  the  temporary 
home  of  Gen.  John  C.  Fremont,  the  "Pathfinder,"  when  a 
struggling  young  Lieutenant  of  Engineers ;  and  it  was  from 
here  in  1841  that  he  eloped  with  Jessie,  the  prettiest  daughter 
of  his  near  neighbor,  Sen.  Thomas  H.  Benton.  Later  he  lived 
for  a  time  at  No.  318. 

The  accounts  of  the  family  opposition  which  led  to  this  elope- 
ment are  widely  contradictory.  In  his  own  published  memoirs  General 
Fremont  states  that  his  relations  with  Mr.  Benton  were  most  cordial, 
and  that  the  opposition  came  mainly  from  Mrs.  Benton,  who,  while 
always  gracious  to  him,  objected  first  on  the  ground  of  the  youth 
of  her  daughter,  who  was  only  sixteen;  and  secondly  because  she 
dreaded  the  hardships  of  an  army  officer's  wife,  having  delayed  her 
own  marriage  for  seven  years,  until   Mr.   Benton   resigned   from   service. 


134  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

This  house  was  in  1866  purchased  by  members  of  the 
First  Presbyterian  Church  as  a  parsonage  for  Dr.  Byron 
Sunderland  (1819-1902),  under  whose  guidance,  during  the 
years  that  it  was  attended  by  President  Cleveland,  that  church 
attained  its  highest  eminence. 

Nos.  332-334,  now  partly  modernized  and  thrown  together 
as  a  printing  establishment  .(the  eastern  doorway  is  evidently 
unchanged),  both  have  interesting  associations.  The  former 
was  for  thirty  years  the  home  of  the  Rev.  William  McLain, 
one  of  the  early  pasters  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church 
(1837-40)  who  died  here  in  1873.  The  other  was  for  many 
years  the  home  of  Sen.  Thomas  H.  Benton. 

On  Feb.  27th,  1855,  the  house  was  totally  destroyed  by  fire.  Benton 
lost  all  the  manuscript  and  notes  of  the  nearly  completed  second 
volume  of  his  Thirty  Years  Views,  all  of  which  had  to  be  replaced 
from  memory.  A  new  house  was  promptly  erected  on  the  same  site, 
and  here  he  wrote  his  Examination  of  the  Dred  Scott  Case,  in  which 
he  severely  criticised  Judge  Taney;  also  his  Debates  in  Congress,  the 
concluding  pages  of  which  were  dictated  on  his  death-bed.  When 
they  were  concluded  he  sent  for  a  few  old  friends  to  bid  them  fare- 
well.    Among  those  who  obeyed  the  summons  was  President  Buchanan. 

Diagonally  opposite,  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  John  Marshall 
Place,  is  a  quaint  old  house  with  a  spacious  front  yard, 
dating  from  very  early  in  the  19th  century,  and  built  by  a 
sea-faring  man,  a  certain  Mr.  Caldwell  of  Philadelphia. 
John  Quincy  Adams  is  said  to  have  once  lived  here. 

During  1830-57  it  was  the  home  of  Gottlieb  C.  Grammar,  president 
for  35  years  of  the  Franklin  Fire  Insurance  Co.,  and  of  the  Patriotic 
Bank,  and  vestryman  of  St.   John's  and  later   of  Trinity  Church. 

Diagonally  opposite  on  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  C  St.,  stands 
the  Metropolitan  M.  E.  Church,  a  dignified  structure  of 
brownstone  in  the  early  English  Gothic  order  of  architecture, 
erected  1854-69,  at  a  cost  of  $225,000  (not  including  tower  and 
steeple). 

History.  The  ground  occupied  by  the  Metropolitan  Church  was 
donated  in  1854  by  the  Wesley  M.  E.  Chapel,  for  the  erection  of  a 
National  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  The  plan  was  approved  at  a 
meeting  of  the  General  Conference  and  the  corner-stone  was  laid 
that  same  year;  but  for  want  of  funds  the  edifice  was  not  completed 
until   March    ist,    1869. 

As  in  many  of  the  older  Washington  churches,  the  ground 
floor  is  occupied  by  the  Church  parlor  and  Sunday  School 
rooms.  Double  stairways  lead  up  from  the  vestibule  to  the 
main  auditorium  on  the  floor  above.  Two  Presidents,  Grant 
and  McKinley,  and  two  Vice-Presidents,  Logan  and  Fair- 
banks, attended  service  here.  The  Presidential  pew  is  No.  67, 
on  the  L.  of  the  W.  aisle.  Behind  it,  No.  65,  is  the  Logan 
pew. 


THE    OLD     RESIDENTIAL    SECTION  135 

The  pulpit  and  pulpit-rail  are  of  olive-wood  made  from 
logs  brought  from  Mt.  Lebanon  and  the  Mount  of  Olives. 
In  the  arch  behind  the  pulpit,  is  a  small  black  keystone  in- 
scribed with  Hebraic  characters  and  consisting  of  a  fragment 
from  Solomon's  Temple.  To  the  R.  of  pulpit  in  the  S.  \V. 
cor.,  are  several  memorial  tablets :  1.  To  Vice-President 
John  A.  Logan ;  2.  To  the  Rev.  John  P.  Newman,  D.D., 
Bishop  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Churdi,  the  third  pastor 
of  the  Metropolitan  M.  E.  Church  (1826-99)  ;  3.  To  Ulysses 
S.  Grant  (tablet  erected  by  his  friend  George  W.  Childs). 
To  the  L.  is  a  marble  bust  of  Bishop  Newman. 

Bishop  Newman  was  raised  to  the  Bishopric  in  his  third  pastoral 
term  in  this  church;  and  instead  of  resigning  he  followed  the  unusual 
procedure    of    remaining    pastor    until    the    end    of    his    term. 

In  the  rear  of  the  church  are  several  memorials  including: 
1.  To  Matthew  G.  Emery  (1818-1901)  the  last  Mayor  of 
Washington,  and  President  for  32  years  of  the  Trustees  of 
the  church ;  2.  To  President  McKinley.    • 

The  cost  of  erection  of  this  church  was  met  by  contribu- 
tions from  various  Church  Conferences  throughout  the 
country.  The  names  of  the  Conferences  which  contributed 
are  inscribed  upon  the  name  plates  of  the  rear  pews.  The 
church  has  a  chime  of  16  bells. 

At  456  C  St.,  adjoining  the  church,  John  A.  Dix  lived 
while  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  (1860-61.)  No.  458  was  the 
residence  of  Edwin  M.  Stanton,  while  practicing  law  and 
also  while  Attorney  General  under  Buchanan.  He  was  still 
living  here  when  he  defended  Daniel  Sickles,  on  trial  for  the 
murder  of  Philip  Barton  Key  (p.  188),  but  moved  to  H  St. 
just  W.  of  14th  when  he  became  Secretary  of  War. 

Diagonally  opposite,  W.  of  the  Harper  Office  Building, 
a  modern  business  house  occupies  the  site  of  an  historic  old 
hotel.  In  1826  it  was  known  as  Davis'  Hotel.  Later.it  became 
a  boarding  house  kept  by  Miss  Ann  Hamilton  and  patronized 
by  members  of  Congress.  During  the  decade  1840-50  many 
confidential  consultations  were  held  there  regarding  slavery 
and  the  work  of  preparation  for  the  advent  of  the  Republican 
party.  On  the  eastern  lot  there  was  formerly  a  spring, 
known  as  the  City  Spring,  and  the  city  Corporation  laid 
wooden  pipes  for  carrying  the  water  to  running  pumps  on 
6th  and  7th  Sts.,  S.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  When  William 
Woodward,  in  1802,  erected  his  Centre  Tavern  on  the  site 
now  covered  by  the  eastern  part  of  the  Metropolitan  Hotel 
(p.  4),  he  also  purchased  the  lot  with  the  spring  on  C  St.; 
and  subsequently  both  the  Metropolitan  and  National  Hotels 
depended  on  this  spring  for  their  water  supply.     It  was  on 


136  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

this  same  lot  that  Washington's  first  Public  Baths  were 
opened,   in   1813. 

Further  west,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  6th  and  C  Sts.,-  formerly 
stood  the  old  Crutchct  House,  where  Alexander  Stephens, 
Charles  Summer,  General  Scott  and  Abraham  Lincoln  used 
to  dine. 

On  the  W.  side  of  John  Marshall  Place,  midway  between 
C  and  D  Sts.,  stands  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  a  sub- 
stantial brick  structure,  the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid 
April  10th,  1827.  Among  the  distinguished  attendants  have 
been  Presidents  Jackson,  Polk,  Pierce  and  Cleveland ;  Vice- 
President  Colfax  and  General  Grant.  The  Rev.  T.  DeWitt 
Talmage,  the  famous  Brooklyn  preacher,  wcs  once  pastor  of 
this  church. 

History.  The  First  Presbyterian  church  was  organized  in  1789, 
and  on  June  24th  its  first  pastor,  the  Rev.  John  Brackenridge  was  in- 
stalled. The  congregation  worshipped  first  in  the  carpenter's  shop 
of  the  White  House,  and  later  in  the  Supreme  Court,  in  the  basement 
of  the  Capitol.  The  history  of  the  early  years  is  somewhat  obscure. 
Owing  to  poor  health  the  pastor  was  absent  much  of  the  time,  and  the 
congregation  gradually  dwindled  away.  It  is  believed  that  for  a  time 
they  had  a  house  of  worship  in  the  square  bounded  by  F  and  G,  10th 
and  nth  Sts.  Christian  Hines  in  his  quaint  "Recollections,"  dating 
from  boyhood,  speaks  of  the  "old  one-story,  round-top,  frame  meeting- 
house, where  (it  is  said)  Rev.  Mr.  Brackenridge  used  to  preach." 
It  is  a  curious  fact  that  when,  in  181 1,  the  church  was  revived  this 
same  Mr.  Brackenridge  was  for  a  second  time  called  and  ordained 
as  pastor.  In  181 2  the  "Little  White  Church  under  the  Hill,"  near 
Delaware  Ave.  and  B  St.  S.  W.,  was  dedicated.  In  1827  the  present 
site  was  secured  and  the  corner-stone  of  the  present  structure  laid 
April  10th.  In  1868  this  church  received  the  first  charter  granted  by 
Congress   to   any    church   in   the   District   of   Columbia. 

In  the  lobby  of  the  church  is  a  portrait  bust  of  the  Rev.  Byron 
Sunderland,  the  most  distinguished  of  the  church's  many  pastors, 
who  closed  his  long  term  of  service  by  resigning  in  1899,  three  years 
before    his    death. 

Opposite  the  church  is  the  site  of  the  home  of  Carlo 
Franzoni,  one  of  the  first  sculptors  of  the  Capitol,  who  died 
here  1819.  The  house,  the  front  of  which  was  elaborately 
carved  with  busts  and  bas-reliefs,  survived  for  many  years, 
but  the  sculptures  were  destroyed  in  enlarging  the  entrance 
for  business  purposes. 

North  of  the  church,  on  W.  side,  the  house  adjoining  the 
corner  was  the  residence  of  Rear  Admiral  Dahlgren  for  fif- 
teen years  prior  to  his  death  in  1870.  The  corner  house  is  the 
old  Masonic  Hall,  the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid  in  1826. 
It  was  occupied  by  the  City  Post  Office  for  a  year  after  the 
Blodgett  Building  was  burned  in  1836  (p.  142).  During  1849- 
70  it  was  the  home  of  Joseph  H.  Bradley,  a  prominent  lawyer 
of  the  District. 


THE    OLD     RESIDENTIAL    SECTION  137 

John  Marshall  Place,  formerly  4*4  St.,  terminates  at 
Judiciary  Square,  a  rectangular  plot  comprising  about  14  acres, 
bounded  by  4th  and  5th,  D  and  G  Sts.  Its  S.  side  marks  the 
meeting  place  of  two  short  Avenues :  Indiana  Avenue,  run- 
ning S.  E.  to  1st  St.,  and  Louisiana  Avenue,  running  S.  W. 
to  the  Mall  at  10th  St.  Number  458  Louisiana  Ave.,  a  few 
doors  W.  of  John  Marshall  PL,  was,  for  several  years  prior 
to  his  death  in  1846,  the  home  of  James  Hoban,  architect  of 
the  White  House. 

Further  W.,  midway  between  4l/2  and  6th  Sts.,  is  the  site 
of  the  second  oldest  theater  in  Washington.  It  was  first 
.called  the  Washington  Theater,  and  later  the  American  The- 
ater. It  must  have  dated  from  the  early  20's  for  it  was 
enlarged  and  improved  in  1828.  Two  inaugural  balls  are  said 
to  have  been  held  in  this  Hall. 

Diagonally  opposite,  N.  E.  cor.  of  Louisiana  Ave.  and 
6th  St.,  stands  the  District  Police  Court,  occupying  the  site 
of  the  old  First  Unitarian  Church  attended  by  Presidents 
John  Quincy  Adams  and  Millard  Fillmore.  When,  in  1878, 
the  congregation  moved  to  their  second  church  on  14th  St. 
(p.  232)  the  old  edifice  was  taken  over  and  occupied  by  the 
Police  Court,  until  it  became  too  small  for  the  latter's  needs, 
and  the  present  building  was  erected.  This  necessitated  the 
demolition  of  several  dwellings,  to  the  E.  on  the  Ave.,  includ- 
ing the  house  in  which  Daniel  Webster  spent  his  last  years. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Square,  facing  John  Marshall  Place, 
stands  the  third  oldest  of  the  Government  buildings,  the 
venerable  City  Hall  (PI.  Ill — E4 — No.  23),  known  in  recent 
years  as  the  District  Court  House.  It  is  the  one  important  work 
designed  wholly  by  George  Hadfield,  the  young  English  archi- 
tect so  enthusiastically  recommended  by  Benjamin  West  at  the 
time  when  Hallett  was  discharged  from  his  position  as  super- 
vising architect  of  the  Capitol.  Owing  to  its  severe  simplicity, 
the  tendency  was  formerly  to  underrate  the  really  artistic  pro- 
portions of  City  Hall.  But  critical  judgment  now  recognizes 
the  rare  talent  that  infused  so  much  classic  spirit  into  mere 
brick  and  plaster. 

The  central  section,  with  its  Ionic  portico,  is  the  oldest 
portion  of  the  structure ;  the  east  wing  was  finished  in  1826 
(the  year  of  Hadfield's  death)  ;  the  west  wing  was  not  com- 
pleted until  1849.  The  finished  structure  has  a  total  frontage 
of  250  ft.  and  consists  of  a  basement  and  two  stories,  with 
an  elevation  of  47  ft.  The  recessed  center  has  a  width  of 
150  ft.,  while  the  wings  have  a  frontage  of  50  ft.  each,  and  a 
depth  of  166  ft. 


138  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

In  1871  the  building"  was  conveyed  to  the  Federal  Gov- 
ernment, and  has  since  housed,  not  only  the  District  Courts, 
but  also  the  offices  of  the  U.  S.  District  Attorney,  U.  S. 
Marshal,  Register  of  Wills  and  Recorder  of  Deeds.  The  old 
eastern  court-room  has  been  the  scene  of  many  historic  trials, 
including  those  of  Dr.  Gardiner  and  Richard  H.  White  for 
burning  the  Treasury  Building;  Julian  May  for  killing  a  man 
in  a  duel ;  Daniel  E.  Sickles  for  the  murder  of  Philip  Barton 
Key  (p.  188),  and  Charles  Guiteau  for  the  assassination  of 
President  Garfield. 

TRe  building  having  become  through  long  neglect  badly 
out  of  repair,  underwent  in  1917  a  thorough  renovation.  This 
necessitated  the  temporary  removal  .of  the  District  Court  to 
the  Emery  Building,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Census  Bureau, 
at  B  and  2d  Sts.  In  the  course  of  repairs  the  S.  facade  or 
main  front,  was  somewhat  remodeled. 

In  front  of  the  Court  House  stands  a  marble  column,  35 
ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  full-length  marble  statue  of  Lincoln, 
modeled  by  Lot  Flannery  of  Washington,  said  to  have  been 
a  self-taught  sculptor,  and  once  a  Lieutenant  in  the  U.  S. 
Army.  The  statue  was  unveiled  April  15th,  1868,  the  third 
anniversary  of  Lincoln's  death.  A  bill  to  replace  this  statue 
with  another  is  now  pending  in  Congress    (May,  1922). 

The  District  Court  of  Appeals  (PI.  Ill— E4— No.  100), 
situated  immediately  N.  W.  of  the  old  Court  House,  constitutes 
the  first  of  a  projected  series  of  Municipal  buildings  which  will 
flank  the  two  sides  of  Judiciary  Sq.  It  was  erected  in  1910 
from  plans  by  Elliott  Woods,  assisted  by  W.  D.  Kneessi  and 
August  Eccard. 

The  architectural  style  is  adapted  Georgian ;  and  it  is 
interesting  to  observe  how  closely  and  judiciously  the  archi- 
tect has  followed  Hadfield's  work.  The  whole  structure 
harmonizes  with  the  old  City  Hall ;  and  the  stone  work  of  the 
two  basements,  especially  in  the  window  arches,  is  practically 
identical.  The  material  of  the  new  building  is :  for  base  and 
approaches,  Woodstock  granite ;  for  upper  stories,  Bedford 
Blue  Indiana  limestone.  The  main  entrance  is  on  the  N. 
fagade.  The  main  staircase,  on  the  left,  leads  up  to  an  im- 
pressive foyer,  from  which  corridors,  to  R.  and  L.,  give  ad- 
mission to  the  Judge's'  Retiring  rooms.  The  Appellate  Court 
Room  is  in  the  center,  and  is  windowless,  being  lighted 
through  the  ceiling.  When  the  Court  is  not  in  Session  the 
attendants  in  charge  will  gladly  admit  visitors  to  the  Court 
Room  and  the  Judges'  Retiring  Rooms. 

Prior  to  the  erection  of  the  Pension  Office,  several 
Inaugural  Balls  were  held  in  Judicial  Square,  in  temporary 


THE    OLD     RESIDENTIAL    SECTION  139 

structures  built  for  the  occasion :  namely,  that  of  William 
Henry  Harrison,  in  1857;  the  first  Inaugural  Ball  of  Lincoln, 
in  1861 ;  and  the  second  of  Grant,  in  1873.  At  the  outbreak 
of  the  Civil  War,  the  Lincoln  ball-room  was  still  standing 
at  the  corner  of  5th  and  E  Sts. ;  and  was  used  as  an  emer- 
gency hospital  for  the  first  wounded  soldiers. 

The  Pension  Office  (PI.  Ill— E4),  erected  in  1883,  stands 
in  the  upper  portion  of  the  Square,  above  the  line  of  F  St.  It  is 
a  (huge,  ungainly  structure  of  red  brick,  notable  chiefly  for  its 
multitude  of  windows.  It  is  said  to  have  been  adapted  from  the 
Farnese  Palace  at  Rome.  (General  M.  C.  Meiggs,  U.  S.  A., 
architect.  See  marble  memorial  tablet  on  wall  of  South 
entry.) 

Open  to  the  public  weekdays,  from  9  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m. 
There  is,  however,  nothing  to  interest  the  tourist  excepting 
the  big  central  hall. 

The  Pension  Office  contains  the  offices  of  the  Commissioner  of 
Pensions,  who  supervises  the  examination  and  adjudication  of  all  claims 
for  service  in  the  army  or  navy  rendered  wholly  prior  to  Oct.  6,  1917: 
claims  for  bounty-land  warrants  based  upon  services  rendered  prior  to 
March  3,  1855,  and  claims  under  the  Act  of  May  22,  1920,  providing 
for  the  retirement   of   employes   in   the   classified   Civil    Service. 

The  building  forms  a  parallellogram  400x200  ft.,  sur- 
rounding a  roofed-in  Roman  cortile.  Surmounting  the  third 
story  are  four  gables  forming  a  cross.  Height  to  cornice,  75 
ft. ;  to  central  ridge  of  roof,  149  ft.  The  cost  was  approxi- 
mately $900,000,  and  15,000,000  brick  were  required  in  course 
of  construction.  It  is  completely  fire-proof, — a  fact  which, 
when  repeated  to  General  Sheridan,  evoked  his  historic  com- 
ment, "What  a  pity!" 

The  one  artistic  feature  of  the  building  is  a  spirited  three- 
foot  terra-cotta  bas-relief  frieze,  extending  unbroken  around 
all  four  sides,  and  portraying  successively  the  various  branches 
of  the  Service  :  the  Marching  Infantry,  the  Cavalry,  the  Boys 
of  the  Navy  rowing  ashore,  the  Army  Supply-wagons,  and  the 
Wounded  being  assisted  to  the  rear.  (Designed  by  C.  Buberl ; 
executed  by  the  Boston  Terra-cotta  Company). 

The  three-loot  squares  compri?ing  the  frieze  are  cleverly  matched, 
so  as  to  permit  of  various  arrangements  and  repetitions,  thus  making 
it  possible  to  bring  a  different  branch  of  the  service  over  each  of  the 
four  central  entrances,  which  are  accordingly  named  respectively:  1. 
North  side.  Gate  of  the  Invalids;  2.  West  side,  Gate  of  the  Staff; 
3.   South   side,   Gate  of  the  Line;   4.   East  side,   Naval   Gate. 

In  the  pendentives  of  the  doorways  are  symbolic  figures,  also  in 
terra-cotta:  1.  (repeated  in  E.  and  W.  entrances)  War,  represented 
(on  R.)  by  Mars,  with  chariot  and  horses;  Minerva  (on  L.),  fully  armed 
and  accompanied  by  the  Owl  of  Wisdom;  2.  (repeated  in  N.  and  S.  en- 
trances) Peace,  symbolized  by  Justice  (on  R.),  with  scales;  and  Truth 
(on  L.),  with  torch;  beside  her  are  the  discarded  masks  of  Tragedy  and 
Comedy. 


140  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Interior.  The  vast  inner  court,  316x116  ft.,  and  rising  120 
ft.  to  roof,  is  surrounded  by  arcaded  galleries  resting  on  two 
tiers  of  imitation  marble  columns,  152  in  number,  the  lower 
tier  being  Doric  and  the  upper  Ionic. 

The  floor  of  the  court  is  now  occupied  with  tiers  of 
drawers,  containing  the  papers  of  applicants  for  pensions. 
The  cases  on  file  exceed  one  million.  The  work  has  been 
so  thoroughly  systematized  that  the  entire  record  of  any 
pension  case  can  be  furnished  within  five  minutes  after  inquiry. 

The  Pension  Building  has  been  the  scene  of  many  in- 
augural balls,  at  which  no  less  than  18,000  people  have  been 
entertained.  The  list  includes  the  inaugural  balls  of  President 
Cleveland,  1885  and  1893  ;  Harrison,  1889 ;  McKinley,  1897  and 
1901 ;  Roosevelt,  1905 ;  Taft,  1909. 

The  Pension  Bureau  Reference  Library  is  of  recent  origin. 
established  July  18th,  1910,  by  the  authority  of  the  Commis- 
sioner of  Pensions.  It  is  a  reference  library  for  the  use  oi 
the  employees  of  the  Bureau;  but  its  privileges  are  extended 
to  any  one  having  business  with  the  Bureau. 

The  site  originally  chosen  for  the  Pension  Office  was  on  B  St.,  at 
Louisiana  ani  Ohio  Ave.;  but  this  was  found  to  be  unsafe,  because  it 
consisted  in  part  of  filled-in  ground  of  what  was  formerly  the  Wash- 
ington canal. 

On  5th  St,  facing  the  Square,  No.  416-18,  the  Columbian 
Building  occupies  the  former  site  of  Trinity  Episcopal  Church, 
upon  the  removal  of  which  in  185 1  to  its  present  site  (p.  132), 
the  old  edifice  was  taken  over  by  the  then  newly  organized 
Congregational  Church.  The  latter  was  short-lived,  but  for 
a  brief  time  in  1854,  just  after  the  publication  of  Uncle  Tom's 
Cabin,  it  was  the  scene  of  some  stirring  revivals  and  anti- 
slavery  demonstrations. 

No.  420,  the  Law  Department  of  Howard  University, 
erected  1892,  contains  a  large  auditorium,  known  as  the 
William  II.  Evarts  Hall. 

This  side  of  the  Square  is  ooccupied  by  many  law  offices. 
The  N.  W.  cor.  of  5th  and  E  Sts.  is  occupied  jointly  by  the 
Columbian  Title  Insurance  Co.  and  the  Real  Estate  Title  In- 
surance C&.  Diagonally  opposite,  on  E  St.  S.  E.  cor.  of  6th 
St.,  is  the  large  brick  structure  of  the  Law  School  of  George- 
town University.  The  old-fashioned  square  brick  dwelling 
on  the  opposite  N.  W.  cor.  of  6th  St.,  was  formerly  the  home 
of  Justice  Salmon  P.  Chase,  also  of  Senator  William  Sprague, 
who  married  Kate  Chase,  daughter  of  the  Chief  Justice. 

Continuing  N.  on  5th  St.  we  pass,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  F  St., 
the  unpretentious  drab  brick  structure  of  Wesley  Chapel 
(M.  E.),  organized  in  1823.  The  original  edifice  was  destroyed 
by  fire,  and  the  present  chapel  erected  about   1856,  at  a   cost 


THE     MODERN     SHOPPING    DISTRICT        141 

of  $-16,000.  Just  N.  of  Judiciary  Square,  on  the  E.  side 
of  5th  St.,  between  G  and  H  Sts.,  we  may  see  the  short, 
heavy  spire  of  the  German  R.  C.  Church  of  St.  Mary,  the 
only  German  church  of  that  denomination  in  the  city,  and 
consequently  without  parochial  limitations.  The  interior  is 
rich  but  somber,  with  many  memorial  windows  representing 
the  Saints  of  the  church,  grouped  in  pairs.  The  principal 
window  in  the  apse  represents  the  Virgin  and  Child.  Near 
the  entrance  is  a  memorial  tablet  to  Matthias  Alig  (1803-82), 
born  in  Switzerland,  the  founder  and  first  rector  of  this 
church.  The  present  structure,  early  Gothic,  of  trap-rock, 
dates  from  1890. 

Further  N.,  at  6th  and  G  Sts.,  stands  Adath  Israel,  the 
oldest  Jewish  synagogue  in  the  city,  founded  in  the  early  fifties 
by  Mannasses  Oppenheimer,  from  Bavaria,  one  of  the  eight 
Jews  then  in  Washington.  The  present  building  dates 
from  1873. 

VI.     The  Modern  Shopping  District 
a.     F  Street  to  the  Treasury  Building 

F  Street  was  from  very  early  times  down  to  the  last 
quarter  of  the  19th  century,  a  fashionable  street,  and  even 
in  the  70's,  when  President  Grant  and  A.  T.  Stewart,  New 
York's  first  "Merchant  Prince,"  prophesied  that  it  was  des- 
tined to  become  the  fashionable  shopping  street  of  the  Cap- 
ital, there  were  few  who  believed  it.  Yet  to-day  from  6th 
St.  to  the  Treasury  Building,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
churches,  F  St.  is  wholly  given  over  to  business,  containing 
many  of  the  leading  shops  and  stores,  some  of  which  were 
formerly  conspicuous  features  on  Pennsylvania  Ave. 

Just  S.  of  F  St.,  at  No.  522  6th  St.,  is  the  Washington 
headquarters"  of  the  Women's  Christian  Temperance  Union. 
No.  614  F  St.  was  formerly  the  home  of  Thomas  U.  Walter, 
one  of  the  architects  of  the  Capitol.  No.  622  F  St.,  the 
Pacific  Building,  contains  the  rooms  of  the  Columbia  His- 
torical Society,  an  institution  organized  April  4th,  1894  "for 
the  collection,  preservation  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  re- 
specting the  history  and  topography  of  the  District  of 
Columbia." 

The  Society  possesses  a  valuable  specialized  library  comprising  ap- 
proximately 800  volumes,  and  4000  magazines  and  pamphlets.  It  is 
primarily  intended  for  members,  but  any  other  students  are  welcome. 
Open  every  Wednesday,  1 1  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.,  from  November  to  May 
inclusive;   at   other   times   by   appointment   with   the    Secretary. 

At  the  S.E.  cor.  of  7th  and  F  Sts.  is  the  Shubert-Garrick 
Theatre,  one  of   Washington's   high-class  playhouses    (p.  24). 


142  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

West  of  7th  St.  the  north  side  of  F  St.  is  occupied  for 
two  squares  by  the  Patent  Office,  and  the  S.  side  to  8th  St. 
by  the  General  Land  Office. 

The  United  Statees  Patent  Office  (PI.  I— Ci),  which  up 
to  1917  housed  the  entire  Department  of  the  Interior  (p.  213), 
occupies  two  city  squares,  bounded  on  N.  and  S.  by  F  and  G 
Sts.,  and  on  E.  and  W.  by  7th  and  9th  Sts.  This  site  was  the 
reservation  set  aside  in  L'Enf ant's  plan  for  a  National  Church 
and  Mausoleum.  The  ibuilding  is  a  three-story  rectangle,  measur- 
ing 453  ft.  E.  to  W.,  and  321  ft.  N.  to  S.,  with  an  interior  quad- 
rangle about  265  x  135  ft.  The  style  is  consistently  Doric, 
imposing  by  its  severe  simplicity.  There  are  four  massive 
porticoes.  The  main  one,  fronting  on  F  St.,  opposite  the  termina- 
tion of  8th  St.,  is  reached  by  a  lofty  series  of  steps,  and  con- 
sists of  a  double  row  of  fluted  Doric  columns,  sixteen  in 
number,  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  thirty-two  feet  high, 
raised  in  sections  and  flanked  by  immense  pilasters.  It  is 
modeled  after  the  portico  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome. 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  this  building,  at  E 
and  8th  Sts.,  is  the  site  of  the  historic  Blodgett's  Hotel,  so  named 
from  its  projector,  Samuel  Blodgett  of  Philadelphia,  who  planned  to 
make  it  a  lottery  prize  to  raise  money  for  building  a  canal.  The 
hotel  was  begun  July  4th,  1793,  from  plans  by  James  Hoban.  The 
government  gave  the  freestone  for  the. basement  story.  About  $35,000 
was  expended  in  putting  up  the  frame  and  roofing-in.  The  building, 
however,  was  not  completed  as  the  lottery  scheme  failed.  Although 
known  by  the  various  names  of  "Great  Hotel,"  "Lottery  Hotel"  and 
"Union  Pacific  Hotel,"  it  was  never  used  as  a  hotel.  In  1800  a 
Philadelphia  theatrical  man  named  Wingall  opened  it  as  the  United 
States  Theatre,  and  presented  the  first  series,  of  theatrical  entertain- 
ments ever  given  in  Washington.  The  opening  night  was  August  226.. 
1800,  when  Venice  Preserved  and  The  Spoiled  Child  were  enacted 
before  an  audience  of  about  150.  For  the  next  ten  years  the  main 
auditorium  was  used  for  variotis  entertainments,  meetings  and  relig- 
ious services;  while  the  rooms  of  the  unfinished  upper  stories  housed 
the  families  of  foreign  artisans  employed  on  the  Capitol.  In  1810 
Blodgett's  was  purchased  by  the  Government,  and  from  18 12  to  1836 
was  occupied  by  the  City  Post  Office  and  part  of  the  time  by  the  Post 
Office  Department  and  Patent  Office.  When  the  British  captured 
the  city,  in  1814,  one  of  the  officers  ordered  a  gun  to  be  trained  upon 
this  building.  It  was  saved  by  Dr.  William  Thornton,  at  that  time 
in  charge  of  the  Patent  Office.  It  is  related  that  Thornton  rode  up 
and  jumped  from  his  horse  in  front  of  the  gun,  demanding:  "Are 
you  Englishmen  or  Goths  and  Vandals?  This  is  the  Patent  Office,  the 
depository  of  the  inventive  genius  of  America,  in  which  the  whole 
civilized  world  is  concerned.  Would  you  destroy  it?  If  so,  fire  away 
and   let   the   shot   pass   through   my   body!" 

Owing  to  the  destruction  of  the  Capitol  by  the  British,  when 
Congress  was  next  convened,  September  19th,  1814,  it  occupied  Blod- 
gett's for  a  brief  period.  See  memorial  tablet  on  S.  facade  of  present 
building. 

Another  historic  sit'e  is  near  the  middle  of  the  W.  side  of  the 
Patent  Office,  on  7th  St.  Here,  before  the  northern  extension 
was    built,    stood    two    brick    buildings    occupied    by    the    Government    as 


THE     MODERN     SHOPPING    DISTRICT        143 

the    city    branch    of    the    Post    Office.      In    the  upper    story    or    one    of 

these   houses   was  established   the   first   office   in  the   world   for   receiving 

and  dispatching  messages  by  magnetic  telegraph.  The  location  is  marked 
by  a  bronze  memorial  tablet. 

The  original  section  of  the  present  building  is  the  south 
wing  with  a  270  ft.  front  on  F  St.,  and  70  ft.  deep.  It  was 
erected  in  1837-42  to  house  the  Patent  Office  when  it  was 
still  a  Bureau  of  the  Department  of  State.  Robert  Mills, 
superintending  architect;  designs  by  W.  P.  Elliott.  Mate- 
rial, freestone  from  Government  quarries  at  Aquia  Creek, 
Va.  In  1849,  when  the  Department  of  the  Interior  was 
created,  the  first  extension,  consisting  of  the  east  wing,  was 
authorized,  and  was  begun  by  Mills,  from  designs  by  Thomas 
U.  Walter.  Mills  was  succeeded  in  1851  by  Edward  Clark, 
assistant  architect  of  the  Capitol,  under  whom  the  east  wing 
was  completed  in  1855,  the  west  wing  in  1859,  the  north 
wing  in  i860  and  the  north  portico  in  1868.  The  new  por- 
tions are  all  of  Maryland  marble  on  the  exterior  (including 
basement),  and  of  New  England  granite  on  the  quadrangle. 
The  building,  as  originally  completed,  contained  191  rooms, 
and  cost  approximately  $2,700,000.  Here  in  1865  the  second 
Lincoln  Inaugural  Ball  was  held. 

The  Patent  Office  was  organized  in  1790,  when  the  first  patent  was 
taken  out  by  one  Samuel  Hopkins,  July  31st,  "for  making  pot  or 
pearl  ashes";  and  the  second  by  Joseph  Stacey  Sampson,  August  6th, 
"for  the  manufacture  of  candles."  Before  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil 
War  more  than  30,000  patents  had  been  issued;  and  the  war  so  far 
stimulated  inventive  genius  that  by  1870  the  number  had  risen  to 
40,000.  Today  the  total  number  is  upward  of  900,000  patents;  and 
the  earnings  of  the  Office  are  said  to  have  been  far  in  excess  of  the 
total   expenses   since   its   origin,    including   the   cost   of   buildings. 

The  Patent  Office  possesses  an  important  Scientific 
Library,  now  approximating  95,000  volumes  (including  books, 
pamphlets  and  bound  volumes  of  periodicals).  It  is  strictly 
a  reference  library,  open  daily,  except  Sunday  and  Holidays, 
from  9  A.  M.  to  4 :30  P.  M. 

The  Patent  Office  Library  was  practically  founded  in  1836;  but  its 
real  history  dates  from  1852,  under  the  direction  of  W.  W.  Turner, 
its  first  regularly  appointed  Librarian,  through  whose  efforts  the 
foreign  patent  and  periodical  files  were  greatly  increased,  and  the 
scope  of  the  Library  broadened.  In  1869  the  Library  was  able  to 
boast  that  it  possessed  "a  complete  set  of  the  reports  of  the  British 
Patent  Commissioners — the  reports  of  French  Patents  are  also  complete, 
and  those  of  various  other  countries  are  being  obtained  as  rapidly  as 
possible."  The  Library  is  entirely  dependent  upon  Congressional  approp- 
riations, which  have  been  gradually  increased  until  at  present  there 
is   an    annual    allowance   of    $2,500. 

Prior  to  the  erection  of  the  old  National  Museum,  the 
upper  story  of  the  Patent  Office,  known  as  the  "Model 
Room,"  contained,  in  addition  to  models  of  patents,  a  museum 
of    miscellaneous    exhibits,    the    nucleus    of    which    was    the 


144  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

natural  history  collection  brought  home  in  1842  by  the  U.  S. 
Naval  Exploring  Expedition  under  command  of  Commodore 
Charles  Wilkes.  Here  also  were  formerly  exhibited  many 
of  the  nation's  most  valued  historical  relics,  including  per- 
sonal effects  of  George  Washington,  and  the  original  Declara- 
tion of  Independence  (now  in  the  Library  of  Congress). 
The  collection  was  finally  transferred  to  the  National 
Museumi  (p.  260). 

South  of  the  Patent  Office,  occupying  the  block  bounded 
on  E.  and  W.  by  7th  and  8th'  Sts.,  and  on  N.  and  S.  by  JK  and 
E  Sts.,  is  the  Old  General  Land  Office  Building  (PI.  I— 
C2)  originally  erected  for  the  General  and  City  Post  Office. 

History.  The  southern  or  E  St.  portion  was  commenced 
in  1839,  and  finished  by  Robert  Mills,  architect.  Material : 
marble  from  New  York  quarries.  In  1842  Congress  pur- 
chased the  north  half  of  the  square  bounded  by  F  St.,  and 
in  1855  the  extension  on  that  space  was  completed.  T.  U. 
Walter,  architect;  Capt.  M.  C.  Meiggs,  U.  S.  Engineers,  super- 
intendent.    Material:  Maryland  marble. 

The  completed  building  is  Roman  Corinthian  in  style.  It 
measures  204  x  300  ft.,  and  consists  of  two  stories  resting  on 
a  rustic  basement.  The  interior  courtyard  measures  95  x  194 
ft.  The  outer  facing  of  the  whole  building  is  white  marble, 
that  of  the  court  is  granite.  The  columns  and  pilasters,  laid 
in  sections,  extend  through  three  stories,  supporting  the 
architrave,  frieze  and  cornice.  On  the  8th  St.  front  is  a 
carriage-way  entrance,  formerly  intended  for  the  reception 
and  delivery  of  mail.  The  carving  on  the  keystone  of  the 
entrance  arch  represents  Fidelity.  The  bas-reliefs  on  the 
spandrils,  winged  female  figures  bearing  (N.  side)  a  thunder- 
bolt, (S.  side)  a  locomotive,  symbolize  respectively  Electricity 
and  Steam.     Estimated  cost  of  the  entire  building,  $1,700,000. 

The  General  Land  Office  removed  in  1917  to  the  new  Interior 
Department  Building  (p.  213).  During  the  World  War  Gen.  Enoch 
Crowther,  head  of  the  National  Selective  Draft  Board,  occupied  the 
old  building;  and  here,  after  his  return  from  France  General  Pershing 
had  his  headquarters.  It  is  now  (1922)  occupied  by  several  minor 
Government  bureaus  including  the  Federal  Farm  Loan  Bureau;  the 
U.  S  Tariff  Commission;  the  Panama  Canal;  and  the  International  Joint 
Commission  (with  jurisdiction  ovef  the  boundaries  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada). 

At  S.  W.  cor.  of  F  and  8th  Sts.,  was  formerly  the  home 

of  George  Hadfield,  an  architect  of  the  Capitol. 

The  intersection  of  9th  and  F  Sts.,  at  S.W.  cor.  of  the  Patent 
Office,  is  the  busiest  transfer  point  in  Washington  of  the  city's  trolley 
lines.     More  than  half  the  lines  intersect  at  this  point. 

The  N.  E.  and  S.  E.  corners  of  9th  and  F  Sts.  are  to- 
day  occupied   respectively   by   the   old    Masonic    Temple,   and 


THE     MODERN     SHOPPING    DISTRICT        145 

the  nine-story  building  of  the   Washington  Loan  and   Trust 

Co.,  organized  1889. 

On  these  two  corners  there  still  stood  as  late  as  1859  two  hotels: 
1.  the  Model  House,  on  the  site  of  the  Masonic  Temple;  and  2.  the 
Herndon  House,  later  called  the  St.  Cloud  Hotel,  a  more  pretentious 
hostelry  of  substantial  brick.  W.  of  the  Model  House  in  those  days 
was  an  open  sewer,  and  beyond  the  sewer  stood  the  buildings  and 
grounds  of  old  Gonzaga  College  (p.  362);  and  on  a  grade,  some  distance 
above   the   street,   stood   old   St.    Patrick's   church   and   graveyard. 

South  on  10th  St.,  immediately  adjoining  the  new  Metro- 
politan Theatre,  is  the  historic  structure,  once  *Ford's  The- 
atre (PI.  I — B2),  in  which  Abraham  Lincoln  was  assassinated 
on  the  night  of  April  14,  1865,  while  attending  a  performance 
of  "Our  American  Cousin."  John  Wilkes  Booth,  an  actor, 
who  knew  the  theatre  well,  entered  the  box,  shot  the  President 
through  the  head,  then  leaped  to  the  stage  and  escaped.  He 
was  overtaken,  however,  while  hiding  in  a  barn  near  Freder- 
icksburg, Va.,  and  fatally  wounded  while  resisting  arrest. 

This  building,  now  closed  to  the  public,  occupies  the  site  of  one  of 
the  several  edifices  of  the  First  Baptist  Church.  When  that  organization, 
in  1862,  moved  into  a  new  building,  its  former  premises  were  taken 
over  by  one  James  R.  Ford  (d.  January  12th,  191 7)  and  opened  on 
March  19th  of  that  year  with  "The  French  Spy,"  by  Lucille  Western. 
The  subsequent  performances  included  engagements  by:  Maggie 
Mitchell.  Edwin  Forrest,  John  McCollough  and  Laura  Keene. 

Opposite  Ford's  Theatre  is  the  *Honse  where  Lincoln 
died,  No.  516  10th  St.  It  contains  at  present  the  Oldroyd 
Lincoln  Memorial  Museum. 

History.  Into  this  house,  the  home  of  one  William  Petersen,  the 
wounded  President  was  carried  from  the  theatre  a  few  minutes  after 
10  o'clock,  into  the  room  at  the  rear  end  of  the  entrance  hallway. 
Throughout  the  night  he  lay  in  this  room  surrounded  by  his  wife  and 
son  Robert,  his  private  Secretary,  John  Hay,  Secretaries  Stanton. 
Welles  and  Usher,  Atty. -General  Speed,  Senator  Sumner,  Dr.  Gurley, 
his  pastor,  and  five  physicians.  The  President  remained  unconscious 
to  the  end.  At  7  A.  M.  a  bulletin  was  issued:  "Symptoms  of  immediate 
dissolution,"  and  twenty-two  minutes  later  Lincoln  died.  Secretary 
Stanton  broke  the  solemn  silence  with  the  historic  words,  "Now  he  be- 
longs to  the  Ages."  It  was  in  an  adjoining  room  that  Stanton,  during 
the  night-long  suspense,  spent  hours  dictating  orders  and  preparing  an 
official  account  which  is  recognized  today  as  the  best  condensed  history 
of   the   assassination. 

The  Oldroyd  Collection,  which  is  at  present  housed  here, 
is  the  result  of  a  patient  collection  through  forty  years,  by 
Mr.Osborn  H.  Oldroyd,  of  miscellaneous  L.incolniana,  com- 
prising 3000  exhibits,  and  consequently  of  widely  varied  de- 
grees of  interest  and  authenticity.  For  ten  years  the  col- 
lection was  housed  in  the  old  Lincoln  homestead  in  Spring- 
field, 111.  In  the  early  8o's  (so  the  visitor  is  told)  friction 
between  Mr.  Oldroyd  and  Mr.  Robert  Lincoln  resulted  in 
the  former's  summary  dispossession,  and  the  removal  of  the 
collection  to  Washington.     One  or  two  Congressmen  so   far 


i46  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

interested  themselves  that  the  building  was  purchased  by  the 
Government.  The  collection  itself,  however,  is  still  owned 
by  the  Oldroyd  family,  who  occupy  the  upper  stories. 

Museum  open  every  day  and  evening,  "at  all  hours/' 
Admission  30  cents. 

The  exhibits  occupy  the  four  rooms  on  the  ground  floor,  and  in- 
clude in  addition  to  the  more  important  relics,  which  merit  special 
mention:  A.  over  300  newspapers  containing  Lincoln's  speeches  and 
war  papers,  and  notices  of  his  death  and  burial;  B.  255  funeral  ser- 
mons, addresses  and  eulogies;  C.  253  portraits,  including  photographs, 
steel  engravings,  lithographs,  etc.;  D.  66  pieces  of  sheet  music  published 
at  the  time  of  his  death;  E.  more  than  a  hundred  caricatures  of  Lin- 
coln's  presidential    campaigns   and   administrations. 

In  the  front  parlor,  between  the  windows,  is  shown  what  purports 
to  be  Lincoln's  last  signature.  In  this  room  also  is  the  Family  Bible, 
100  years  old,  from  which  his  mother  read  to  him  in  childhood.  It  is 
claimed  that  the  autograph  on  the  cover  was  written  by  Lincoln  when 
only  nine  years  old. 

Between  the  front  and  back  parlors  is  a  black  locust  rail,  accom- 
panied by  an  affidavit  attested  to  by  Gov.  Oglesby,  declaring  it  to  be 
an  original  rail  split  by   Lincoln  in    1830. 

The  back  parlor  is  interesting  mainly  for  its  pictures 
and  other  mementoes  of  the  pursuit,  capture,  trial  and  execu- 
tion of  the  Lincoln  conspirators.  These  exhibits  include :  a 
Ford's  Theatre  hand-bill  of  The  American  Cousin,  dated 
April  14th,  1865 ;  a  reward  bill  offering  $100,000  for  the  cap- 
ture of  Booth,  Harold  and  Surratt ;  and  37  portraits  of 
Wilkes  Booth. 

On  the  S.  wall  is  a  series  of  pictures  showing  the  route  followed 
by  Booth  in  his  flight,  the  houses  at  which  he  successively  stopped,  and 
the  burning  barn  in  which  he  was  shot  by  Boston  Corbett.  There  are 
also  four  photographs  of  the  execution  of  four  of  the  conspirators, 
showing:  1.  The  condemned  prisoners  on  the  platform  of  the  gallows 
with  their  spiritual  advisors;  2.  The  condemned  with  ropes  adjusted; 
3.  The  springing  of  the  trap;  4.  The  bodies  still  hanging  after  they 
have  been  pronounced  dead. 

The  N.  door  opens  into  the  small  hall-room  (11x22  ft.) 
in  which  Lincoln  died.  The  death-bed  stood  in  the  N.  E. 
cor.,  behind  the  hall  door.  The  walls  are  hung  with  framed 
prints  and  engravings  representing  the  group  around  the 
dying  President.  Note  especially  the  *Woodcut  from  Frank 
Leslie's  Weekly. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  wallpaper  has  not  been  changed  since  Lin- 
coln's death;  but  the  pattern  differs  from  that  shown  in  the  early  pic- 
tures; and  this,  coupled  with  the  fact  that  the  building  was  for  many 
years   a   rooming-house,   makes  this   claim   doubtful. 

The  door  at  W.  end  of  hall-room  opens  into  a  fourth  and  much 
larger  room,  containing:  A.  Furniture  from  the  Lincoln  Homestead, 
Springfield,  111.  (13  pieces),  including  the  cradle  in  which  the  Lincoln 
children  were  rocked;  also  the  last  cook  stove  used  by  Mrs.  Lincoln  in 
the  homestead,  and  the  office  chair  from  Lincoln's  law  office  in  Spring- 
field (said  to  be  the  chair  in  which  he  sat  while  drafting  his  first 
inaugural  address);  B.  A  library  of  upward  of  1000  volumes  of  Lincoln 
biographies    and    histories    of    slavery    and    the    Civil    War;    C.   Portraits 


THE    MODERN     SHOPPING    DISTRICT        147 

and  busts  of  Lincoln,  including:  i.  Portrait  from  life,  by  F.  B.  Car- 
penter (purporting  to  have  been  taken  approximately  at  the  time  of 
the  Gettysburg  Address,  November  19th,  1864);  2.  Bust  from  life,  by 
Thomas  Jones,  1860-61;  3.  Plaster  bust,  by  Leonard  W.  Volk,  Chicagot 
1860. 

In  the  adjoining  house,  No.  518  10th  St.,  the  Spanish  War 
Veterans'  Association  was  established  May  17th,  1899. 

North  of  F  St.,  on  E.  side  of  10th  St.,  stands  St.  Pat- 
rick's Church  (R.  C.)  (PH.  I — Bi),  a  Norman  Gothic  struc- 
ture built  mainly  of  trap  rock,  architecturally  one  of  the  most 
impressive  church  edifices  in  the  city. 

History.  On  April  10th,  1794,  Father  Anthony  Caffery  purchased 
lots  No.  5  and  6  in  the  original  plot  bounded  by  9th  and  10th,  F  and  G 
Sts.,  for  which  he  paid  £80  sterling.  These  lots  were  deeded  to  Bishop 
Carroll  in  1804.  Later  the  church  obtained,  by  purchase  or  gift,  addi- 
tional lots  from  No.   7  to   15  inclusive. 

Father  Caffery  was  succeeded  by  Father  William  Matthews,  the 
first  native  born  American  to  be  raised  to  the  priesthood  in  the  United 
States,  and  remembered  as  the  "Parochial  Patriot  of  Washington  City." 
He  was  the  parochial  priest  of  the  whole  city;  President  of  Georgetown 
College  during  a  crucial  period  of  its  existence  (p.  467).  He  built 
the  first  frame  church,  and  later  replaced  it  with  a  brick  one,  .  about 
1808,  at  the  corner  of  10th  and  F  Sts.,  known  as  Old  St.  Patrick's. 
He  alsoi  laid  the  foundation  of  Gonzaga  College  (p.  362),  and  founded 
in  1 83 1  St.  Vincent's  Female  Orphan  Asylum,  (under  care  of  the  Sisters 
of  Charity)  which  fof  years  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Woodward 
&  Lothrqp  store,  and  was  later  removed  to  the  estate  of  Mrs.  Kate 
Chase  Sprague,  near  Eckington  (PI.  Ill — C5). 

Father  Matthews  remained*  pastor  of  St.  Patrick's  for  nearly  half  a 
century  (1802-54),  and  numbered  among  his  parishioners  Chief  Justice 
Roger  B.  Taney,  Major  L'Enfant,  James  Hoban,  architect  of  the  White 
House,  and   Robert  Brent,   first  May  on  of   Washington.  1 

This  first  brick  church  remained  until  the  early  seventies,  when 
under  the  zealous  administration  of  the  Rev.  Jacob  Ambrose  Walters 
(rector  1854-94)  plans  were  made  for  a  new  stone  church,  the  present 
site  was  chosen,  and  the  corner-stone  laid  November  3d,  1872.  Father 
Walters  was  followed  by  the  Rev.  John  Lloyd,  during  whose  rectorship 
the  churcih  was  decorated.  The  fine  line  erf  parochial  buildings  occupy- 
ing most  of  the  block  on  G  St.  were  added  during  the  administration 
of  the   Rev.    Dennis  J.   Spofford    (1901-08). 

Originally  the  parish  of  St.  Patrick's  included  the  entire  city.  The 
first  subdivision  was  into  eight  parishes,  namely:  1.  St.  Patrick's;  2. 
St.  Peter's  (p.  411);  3.  St.  Matthew's  Op.  234);  4.  St.  Mary's 
(German)  (p.  141);  5.  St.  Aloysius'  (,p.  362);  6.  St.  Stephen's; 
7.  Immaculate  Conception;  8,  St.  Joseph's   (p.   365). 

The  site  of  St.  Patrick's  was  originally  a  part  of  the  Tommy  Burnes 
farm;  and  directly  where  the  church  now  stands  there  was,  until  as 
late  as  1810,  a  highly  prized  spring  of  water,  known  first  as  the 
Burnes  spring,  and  later  as  St.  Patrick's  spring.  Here  on  summer 
evenings  the  Burnes  family  used  to  gather  under  the  great  oaks  and 
amuse   themselves   playing  games   and   swinging   from   the   branches. 

The  church  is  open  daily  until  after  sunset.  Note  the 
interesting  Norman  French  gargoyles  and  the  variegated 
marble  columns  of  the  central  portal.  The  interior  is  dig- 
nified but  not  ornate.  There  are  a  number  of  fine  windows 
(mostly  memorials),  by  Meyer  and  Bros.,  of  Munich.  The 
subjects  are  as  follows: 


148  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Transept  and  nave:  Twelve  scenes  from  the  life  of 
Christ.  North  transept  (E.  to  W.)  :  I.  The  Annunciation; 
2.  Mary's  Visit  to  Elizabeth;  Nave,  N.  side:  3.  Adoration  of 
the  Magi;  4.  Presentation  in  the  Temple;  5.  Christ  in 
Joseph's  Carpenter  Shop ;  6.  Christ  in  the  Temple ;  Nave, 
S.  side  (W.  to  E.)  :  7.  Marriage  at  Cana;  8.  "Suffer  Little 
Children  to  Come  Unto  Me"  (Mark  x,  14)  ;  9.  The  Lajt 
Supper;  10.  "If  it  be  possible  let  this  cup  pass  from  me" 
(Matthew  xxvi,  39);  South  Transept:  11.  The  Resurrec- 
tion; 12.  The  Sermon  on  the  Mount. 

The  seven  windows  in  the  Apse  contain  scenes  from  the 
life  of  St.  Patrick,  beginning  with  the  Annunciation  by  Angels 
of  his  Mission ;  and  closing  with  the  scene  of  the  Saint's 
death. 

Note  especially  the  altar  in  Norman  Gothic  style,  harmonizing  with 
the  architecture  of  the  church,  and  constructed  of  American  statuary 
marble  and,  Mexican  onyx,  inlaid  with  panels  of  Carrara  marble  carved 
in   Florence.      The   largest   of   these   panels   represents   the   Last    Supper. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  the  church,  on  L.  of  entrance,  is  a 
recently  remodeled  Baptistry  containing  a  Pieta  {Edward 
Berge,  Baltimore,  sculptor).  On  the  walls  of  the  baptistry 
is  a  series  of  mural  paintings  by  Gabrielle  Clements  (also 
of  Baltimore)  :  immediately  behind  the  Pieta  are  depicted 
the  Cross  and  Instruments  of  Crucifixion ;  on  R.  are  Joseph 
of  Aramathea  and  Nicodemus;  on  L.  are  St.  John  and  Mary 
Magdalene. 

Woodward  &  Lothrop,  the  leading  department  store  of 
Washington,  stands  on  the  N.  side  of  F  St.,  partly  on  the 
former  site  of  St.  Vincent's  Orphanage,  and  occupies  almost 
the  entire  square  included  between  10th  and  nth  and  G  Sts. 

The  N.  E.  cor.  of  F  and  13th  Sts.  is  the  site  of  the  first 
United  States  Branch  Bank,  established  in  1801.  North  on 
13th  St.,  No.  613,  is  the  National  Metropolitan  Bank,  organ- 
ized January  13th,  1914. 

West  on  F  St.,  No.  1331,  is  the  site  of  the  former  home 
of  Henry  R.  Schoolcraft  the  Ethnologist.  Here  also,  at  an 
earlier  date,  lived  William  Thornton,  firist  architect  of  the  Capitol. 

The  Adams  Building,  Nos.  1333-35,  immediately  adjoining 
on  the  W.,  takes  its  name  from  the  historic  mansion  which 
formerly  stood  on  this  site,  occupied  by  John  Quincy  Adams 
while  Secretary  of  State. 

The  Adams  house  was  a  three-story  structure  of  red  brick,  and  was 
originally  occupied  by  James  Madison,  who  continued  to  reside  there 
until  he  became  President.  Subsequently  it  was  taken  over  by  Madison's 
brother-in-law,  Richard  Cutts,  who  lived  there  until  he  moved  into  his 
new  residence  on  H  St.  and  Lafayette  Sq.,  now  the  Cosmos  Club  (p. 
188).     Adams  occupied   it   during   1821-25. 


THE     MODERN     SHOPPING    DISTRICT        149 

Diagonally  opposite,  at  Nos.  1336-38,  is  the  site  of  a 
house  occupied  by  Aaron  Burr. 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  F  and  14th  Sts.,  stands  the  New 
Ebbitt  House,  occupying  in  part  the  site  and  perpetuating  the 
name  of  the  historic  old  Ebbitt  House,  first  established  as  a 
hotel  in  1865. 

The  history  of  the  older  Ebbitt  House  goes  back  much  farther  than 
this.  The  building  consisted  of  four  houses,  the  oldest  of  which  was 
the  one  adjoining  the  corner,  built  about  1800,  by  one  David  Craufurd, 
who  acquired  the  property  in  1798.  The  corner  house  was  erected  in 
1836  by  one  Bushrod  Washington  Reed,  a  grocer,  who  for  many  years 
occupied  the  first  floor.  Prior  to  1856  these  buildings  were  known  as 
The  Frenchman's  Hotel.  In  1856  the  hotel  was  bought  by  William  E. 
Ebbitt,  and  was  run  as  a  boarding-house  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ebbitt,  after 
whom  the  present  hotel  is  still  called. 

The  old  Ebbitt  House  was  the  home  of  President  William  McKinley 
when  a  member  of  Congress;  and  also)  of  the  famous  journalist,  Ben 
Perley  Poore,  who  died  here  after  a  residence  of  more  than  twenty 
years.  The  basement  story  was  for  many  years  occupied  by  newspaper- 
men, and  known  as  "Newspaper   Row." 

Opposite,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  14th  St.,  now  occupied  by  the 
northern  proportion  of  the  New  Willard  (p.  3),  former- 
ly stood  IVillard's  Hall,  a  popular  place  of  entertainment. 
Here  was  given  the  first  regular  course  of  lectures  ever 
offered  in  Washington,  the  list  of  lecturers  including: 
George  Vanderhoff,  E.  P.  Whipple,  and  Phineas  T.  Barnum, 
the  famous   Showman. 

At  1424  F  St.  is  Lowdermilk's  Old  Book  Store,  "veritable  temple 
of  Americana,  venerable  and  dear  to  generations  of  literary  browsers" 
(Paul  Wilstach).  It  is  believed  to  occupy  approximately  the  site  of 
the  home  of  Secretary  McLane  when,  in  1832,  Washington  Irving, 
recently  returned  from  Spain,  made  it  his  headquarters  during  a 
three-months'    visit   to    the    Capital. 

The  S.  E.  cor.  of  F  and  15th  Sts.,  facing  the  Treasury 
Building,  is  occupied  by  the  northern  facade  of  the  newly 
erected  Washington  Hotel   (p.  ). 

b.     The  Section  Immediately  North  of  F  Street 

Starting  from  9th  St.,  the  eastern  end  of  the  section  included 
between  G  and  I  Sts.,  is  of  comparatively  little  interest.  Further  west, 
however,  it  already  bids  fair  to  rival  F  St.  in  the  quality  of  its  shops. 

No.  713  9th  St.,  between  G  and  H  Sts.,  marks  the  site 
of  a  former  home  of  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  Governor  of 
the  District   of   Columbia,    1873-74    (p.         ). 

On  the  S.  side  of  H  St.,  between  9th  and  10th  Sts.,  is 
the  Laboratory  Building  of  the  Medical  Department  of 
Georgetown  University.  The  building  occupies  the  site  of 
the  original  church  edifice  of  the  P.  E.  Church  of  the  Ascen- 
sion, built  through  the  generosity  of  John  P.  Van  Ness.  The 
Van  Ness  mausoleum,  now  in  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (p.  437), 
formerly  stood  in  the  old  churchyard. 


150  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

One  block  S.  on  G  St.,  cor.  of  ioth  St.,  is  the  site  of 
Carroll  Hall,  where  Charles  Dickens  gave  his  readings.  Two 
blocks  W.,  on  the  N.  side  of  G  St.,  No.  1205  marks  the  former 
home  of  William  Douglas  O'Connor,  author  of  Harrington 
and  The  Good  Gray  Poet.  North  on  12th  St.,  at  No.  812,  the 
house  is  still  standing  in  which  George  S.  Boutwell,  Secre- 
tary of  the  Treasury,  and  John  A.  Logan,  while  Senator 
from  Illinois,  resided. 

In  1828  Count  Charles  J.  Denmon,  the  French  Minister,  invested 
in  this  square,  first  acquiring  the  five  lots  extending  on  H  St.  from 
13th  to  the  center  of  the  square.  Subsequently  he  acquired  nearly 
half  the  square.  On  lots  3,  4  and  5  were  erected  three  brick  resi- 
dences, of  which  the  central  one  became  the  official  home  of  the 
French  Legation.  After  1835  these  houses  were  owned  by  Commodores 
W.  B.  Kenyon,  Granville  S.  Cooper  and  S.  S.  Gouverneur,  and  Surgeon 
H.    S.    Haskell,    all    of   the    U.    S.    N. 

One  block  S.,  at  the  N.E.  cor.  of  G  St.,  is  the  Colorado 
Building,  occupying  the  original  site  of  the  Foundry  (M.  E.) 
church. 

The  P.  E.  Church  of  the  Epiphany  (organized  1842),  on 
the  N.  side  of  G  St.,  midway  between  13th  and  14th  Sts., 
is  externally  an  unpretentious  Gothic  structure,  the  oldest  por- 
tion of  which  dates  from  1844.  The  structure  was  enlarged 
in  1857,  remodeled  in  1874  and  again  altered  in  1890;  the 
latter  time  under  the  supervision  of  Edzvard  J.  Neville-Stent. 
It  is  now  (1922)  undergoing  extensive  repairs.  During 
the  Civil  War  this  church  served  for  six  months  as 
a  hospital  for  the  wounded.  It  has  numbered  among  its 
parishioners  Jefferson  Davis,  Edwin  M.  Stanton,  Chief  Jus- 
tice Waite,  ex-Secretary  John  Sherman,  Lord  Ashburton, 
Lord  Napier,  Sir  Edward  Thornton,  Justice  Field  and  Sec- 
retary Bayard.  By  an  interesting  coincidence  the  Jefferson 
Davis'  pew  was  the  one  later  occupied  by  Mr.  Stanton,  then 
Secretary  of  War. 

The  church  is  open  daily  and  merits  a  visit.  Note  espe- 
cially, at  N.  W.  cor.,  a  semi-circular  alcove  serving  as  the 
Baptistry,  wainscoted  with  pink  Numidian  marble.  The  font 
rests  upon  a  pavement  of  Roman  mosaic  quaintly  depicting 
a  pool  with  conventionalized  fishes.  The  three  bays  contain  a 
pictorial  frieze,  by  Hemming  of  London,  m  three  divisions : 
1.  The  Infant  Jesus  in  Simeon's  Arms ;  2.  His  Baptism  in 
the  Jordan ;  3.  Jesus  Blessing  little  Children. 

Only  a  few  memorial  windows  are  yet  in  place.  The 
most  notable  is  the  Epiphany  Window  in  the  chancel,  by 
Henry  Holliday  of  London,  the  theme  of  which  is  the  two- 
fold idea,  Christ  manifested  at  once  to  the  Jewish  Shepherds 
and  to  the  Wise  Men  from  the  Gentile  world. 


THE    MODERN     SHOPPING    DISTRICT        151 

The  three  memorial  windows  in  the  nave  are:  1.  The 
Geisy  Window,  showing  the  Savior  on  the  Mount  teaching 
His  Disciples;  2.  The  Fisher  Window,  in  two  panels:  a.  The 
Lord  as  the  Good  Shepherd ;  b.  The  Lord  as  the  Light  of 
the  World;  3.  (from  the  Tiffany  Studios),  a  richly  colored 
window  in  two  panels,  showing  the  Sea  of  Galilee  and  the 
Garden  of  Gethsemene. 

c.    The  Section  Between  F  Street  and  Pennsylvania  Avenue 

The  triangular  district  having  Judiciary  Square  for  its 
base,  and  F  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.  for  its  two  longer 
sides,  is  still  a  sort  of  back-water,  in  which  the  currents  of 
retail  business  have  made  feeble  headway.  Seventh  St.,  to 
be  sure,  is  fairly  well  ljned  with  small  shops  of  the  cheaper 
sort;  and  9th  St.  is  given  over  mainly  to  moving-picture 
houses,  foreign  restaurants,  dairy  lunches,  shooting  galleries, 
and  various  catch-penny  devices.  But  the  rest  of  the  district 
is  sordid  and  shabby,  and  interesting  chiefly  for  associations 
half  a  century  old. 

South  on  E.  side  of  6th  St.,  near  the  Police  (p.  137), 
which  occupies  the  former  site  of  the  Unitarian  church,  was 
the  home  of  Charles  Bui  finch,  one  of  the  early  architects  of 
the  Capitol. 

On  the  S.  side  of  E  St.,  of  6th  St.,  is  the  present 
Washington  home  of  the  Knights  of  Columbus.  The  build- 
ing which  they  occupy  was  formerly  a  Baptist  church,  and 
was  used  during  the  Civil  War  as  a  military  hospital.  Just 
beyond,  No.  618,  is  the  house  in  which  John  C.  Calhoun 
resided  while  Secretary  of  War  and  Vice-President  (1817-29). 

On  E.  side  of  7th  St.,  midway  between  D  and  E  Sts., 
stands  the  District  Odd  Fellows  Hall.  The  old  building, 
long  a  local  landmark,  was  demolished  in  May,  1917.  The 
new  hall  is  of  Indiana  limestone,  with  a  frontage  of  jy  ft. 
(W.  S.  Plager,  architect). 

Directly  opposite,  No.  427  7th  St.  occupies  the  former 
site  of  the  office  of  the  National  Era,  in  which  Uncle  Tom  s 
Cabin  was  originally  published  during  1851-52. 

Adjoining  the  S.E.  cor.  of  7th  and  D  Sts.  formerly 
stood  a  row  of  five  houses  known  as  Blagden's  Rozv,  erected 
in  1852  by  one  Thomas  Blagden.  Three  of  these  houses 
were  occupied  respectively  by  Senator  Robert  Toombs,  of 
Georgia,  Chief  Justice  Taney  and  Marston  of  Pennsylvania. 
Diagonally  opposite,  on  N.W.  cor.  was  the  office  of  the 
National  Intelligencer. 

The  N.E.  cor.  of  8th  and  D  Sts.  is  the  site  of  the  old 
Franklin  Inn,  a  popular  hostelry  in  the   early  30's,  kept  by 


152  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

one  James  Kennedy.  At  the  S.W.  cor.  of  9th  and  E  Sts.  is 
the  site  of  a  still  older  hotel,  the  Centre  House  Inn,  opened 
in  1804.  One  square  N.  on  9th  St.,  at  N.W.  cor.  of  E  St., 
is  the  site  of  the  residence  of  Joseph  Gales,  Jr.  (about  1822- 
30),  one  of  the  editors  of  the  National  Intelligencer. 
Diagonally  opposite,  at  No.  918  E  St.,  was  one  of  the  many 
Congressional  "messes,"  where  James  Buchanan  resided  be- 
fore he  became  president. 


WASHINGTON    NORTHWEST— 
THE  RESIDENTIAL  SECTION 

(From  the  Executive  Grounds  to  Rock  Creek) 

I.     Seventeenth  Street  South 

a.     Seventeenth  Street  from  Pennsylvania  Avenue  to 
Potomac  Park 

The  six  short  blocks  on  17th  St.,  betw.  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
and  B  St.,  offer  more  separate  attractions  of  keen  interest  to 
visitors  than  any  other  equivalent  extent  of  street  or  avenue 
in  Washington ;  for  they  include  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery, 
the  National  Headquarters  of  the  American  Red  Cross,  the 
National  D.  A.  R.  Building  and  the  Pan-American  Union. 

On  L.  the  State,  War  and  Navy  Building  (p.  126),  ex- 
tends southward  to  New  York  Ave.  Opposite,  at  N.  W.  cor. 
of  F  St.,  is  the  Winder  Building,  erected  in  1848  by  W.  H. 
Winder,  and  purchased  by  the  Government  in  1854.  It  has 
been  used  in  various  capacities  by  the  War  Department,  and 
at  present  houses  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Efficiency. 

The  duties  of  this  Bureau  are  to  establish  and  maintain  the  system 
of  efficiency  ratings  of  the  Executive  Departments,  and  to  investigate 
the  duplication  of  work,  and  the  methods  of  business  in  the  various 
branches   of  the  Government  service. 

The  opposite  cor.  of  F  St.  is  the  site  of  General  Grant's 
headquarters  in  1865.  West  of  F  St.,  No.  1724,  is  the  Civil 
Service  Commission. 

This  Commission,  organized  March  9,  1883,  under  an  Act  "to 
regulate  and  improve  the  Civil  Service  of  the:  United  States,"  consists 
of  three  Commissioners,  of  whom  not  more  than  two  may  be  adherents 
of  the  same  political  party.  Civil  Service  examinations  are  held  in  all 
the  principal  cities  of  the  country,  through  approximately  3000  local 
boards.  On  July  31,  1921,  the  number  of  officers  and  employees  in  the 
executive   Civil    Service  was   597,482. 

At  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  17th  St.  and  New  York  Ave.  is  the 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery  (see  p.  171).  Opposite,  extending  south- 
ward to  B  St.  is  the  President's  Park,  or  Executive  Grounds. 
On  the  ellipse,  occupying  the  centre  of  these  grounds,  are  four 
baseball  diamonds,  used  Iby  various  amateur  leagues  in  the 
District.  Near  the  upper  margin  of  the  ellipse,  directly 
opposite  the  S.  curve  of  the  White  House  grounds  is  the  — 

Millet-Butt  Memorial  Fountain.  It  consists  of  a  simple 
shaft  rising  from  a  basin  and  bearing  the  following  inscrip- 
tion:  "In  memory  of  Francis  Davis  Millet  (1846-1912)  and 
Archibald  Willingham   Butt    (1865-1912),   this   monument  has 


i54  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

been  erected  by  their  friends  with  the  sanction  of  Congress." 
Mullet,  the  well-known  artist  and  author,  was  a  drummer-boy 
in  the  Civil  War.  Captain  Butt  was  aide  to  Presidents 
Roosevelt  and  Taft.  They  both  lost  their  lives  on  the  ill- 
fated  White  Star  liner  Titanic,  lost  April  15th,  1912.  The 
sculptured  figures  on  E.  and  W.  sides  of  the  central  shaft 
symbolize  respectively  Art  and  Chivalry,  the  latter  in  allusion 
to  Captain  Butt's  conspicuous  part  in  saving  "women  and 
children  first."  The  architect  of  the  Memorial  was  Thomas 
Hastings;  sculptor,  Daniel  Chester  French. 

b.     The  American  Red  Cross   Building 
The  National  Headquarters  of  the  American  Red  Cross 

(PI.  II — C5),  on  17th  St.,  betw.  D  and  E  Sts.,  is  a 
classic  white  marble  structure  of  monumental  character,  the 
main  fagade  being  broken  by  Corinthian  pilasters  rising 
through  two  stories,  and  supporting  a  massive  cornice,  above 
which  rises  a  third  or  attic  story.  At  each  end,  and  on  the 
main  eastern  front,  supporting  the  entrance  portico,  are 
colonnades  oif  stately  Corinthian  columns.  Trowbridge  & 
Livingston,  architects. 

The  idea  of  raising  a  memorial  to  the  devoted  women  of  the  Civil 
War  Sanitary  Commission  (forerunner  of  the  American  Red  Cross)  was 
first  conceived  by  Major-General  Barlow,  whose  wife  died  in  1864  from 
typhus  contracted  while  nursing  the  wounded.  It  was  through  the 
efforts  of  Capt.  James  A.  Scrymser,  a  comrade-in-arms  of  Major-Gen. 
Earlow,  with  the  energetic  co-operation  of  Miss  Mabel  T.  Boardman, 
thct  the  memorial  was  finally  achieved.  It  was1  authorized  by  Act  of 
Congress  in  Oct.,  191 3,  on  condition  that  it  should  cost  not  less  than 
$700,000,  of  which  sum  $400,000  was  to  be  raised  by  private  contribution. 
The  corner-stone  was  laid  in  March,  1915,  and  the  dedicatory  exercises 
took   place   in    May,    19 17. 

Hours.  The  ibuilding  is  open  to  visitors  week  days  from 
9  a.  m.  to  8  p.  >m. ;  Sundays,  11  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

Upon  entering  the  building  the  visitor  notes  above  landing 

of    main    stairway    a    marble    tablet    (bearing    the    following 

inscription  : 

A  Memorial 

Built    by    the    Government    of    the    United    States 

and    Patriotic    Citizens 

To  the  Women  of   the  North 

And  the   Women  of  the  South 

Held    in   Loving   Memory 

By  a  Now  United   Country 

That  their  Labors  to   Mitigate  the   Suffering  of 

The  Sick  and  Wounded  in  War  may  be   Forever  Perpetuated 

This   Building   is    Dedicated  to   the   Service  of 

The  American  Red  Cross. 

The  three  windows  in  the  wall  above  this  tablet  are 
surmounted  by  'broad  ledges  containing  three  symbolic  busts : 
Faith,  Hope  and  Charity,  executed  by  Hiram  Poivers.    On  the 


D.     A.     R.     CONTINENTAL  HALL 


o;> 


second  floor  is  a  spacious  Assembly  Room,  finished  in  th.* 
Colonial  style,  the  interior  furnishings  being  contributed  by 
Mrs.  Adolphus  Busch,  of  St.  Louis.  In  the  N.  wall,  opposite 
entrance  door,  is  a  three-panel  memorial  window  of  favrile 
glass,  typifying  "The  Ministry  to  the  Sick  and  Wounded 
through  Sacrifice.''  Designed  by  Louis  C.  Tiffany,  after  sug- 
gestions by  Elihu  Root  and  Miss  Mabel  Boardman.  The  cost 
was  $10,000,  half  of  which  was  paid  by  the  Women's  Relief 
Corps  of  the  D.  A.  R.,  and  the  other  half  by  the  United 
Daughters  of  the  Confederacy. 

Central  Panel  (joint  gift  of  the  two  organizations)  :  A 
scene  from  the  days  of  the  Cruisades,  showing  an  army  of 
gallant  Knights  riding  to  battle  with  spears  and  banners.  In 
the  foreground  is  a  standard  bearer  carrying  a  large  white 
flag  with  the  Red  Cross  emblem.  Near  him  a  faithful 
comrade  is  supporting  a  wounded  warrior  who  has  fallen 
from  his  horse. 

West  Panel  (gift  of  Women  of  the  North)  :  St.  Filomena, 
famed  for  her  powers  of  healing,  stands  surrounded  by  her 
handmaids  symbolizing  Virtues.  She  is  robed  in  gray  and  her 
hands  rest  upon  a  shield  decorated  with  the  Red  Cross.  Hope 
follows  bearing  a  banner  marked  with  an  anchor,  Mercy 
carrying  a  flagon  of  wine,  Faith  bearing  a  torch,  and  Charity 
a   basket    of    fruit. 

East  Panel  (gift  of  Women;  of  the  South)  :  The  central 
figure  is  Una,  from  Spencer's  "Faerie  Queen,"  personification 
of  fortitude,  her  apron  overflowing  with  roses,  emblematic 
of  good  deeds.  Her  three  attendants  bear  respectively  a 
Cross,  a  Lamp  of  Wisdom  and  a  White  Banner  on  which 
gleams  a  Golden  Heart. 

Opposite  the  Assembly  Hall,  in  the  S.  Transcept.  hangs 
a  painting  by  Luis  Mora,  entitled  "Thine  is  the  Glory."  The 
picture  was  based  upon  a  composite  photograph,  by  Major 
J.  G.  Kitchell,  U.  IS.  A.,  of  several  hundred  Red  Cross  workers 
in   the    World   War. 

In  the  basement  is  a  iMuseum,  established  as  a  memorial 
to  the  services  of  the  Red  Cross  workers  in  the  World  War, 
which  was  opened  in  Sept.,  1919.  It  contains  a  series  of 
miniature  models,  including  the  famous  "Tent  [City"  in  Paris; 
the  first  Emergency  Canteen  opened  for  refugees  returning 
to  the  devastated  area  of  France ;  a  Surgical  Dressings'  Work- 
room,  etc. 

c.     D.  A.  R.  Memorial  Continental  Hall 
♦Memorial   Continental   Hall    (PI.    II — C5),    the    head- 
quarters   of    the    National   Society    of   the   Daughters    of    the 


156  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

American  Revolution,  is  situated  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  17th 
and  D  Sts.,  midway  between  the  Pan-American  Union  and 
the  American  Red  Gross  Building.  It  is  an  imposing  structure 
of  white  Vermont  marble,  designed  on  the  classic  order  of 
architecture  prevalent  in  colonial  times.  Edward  P.  Casey, 
architect. 

History.  The  Society  of  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolu- 
tion dates  from  October  nth,  1890,  when  its  original  eighteen  members 
met  in  Washington  to  organize  it.  At  the  expiration  of  the  first  year 
816  persons,  constituting  the  Charter  Members,  had  been  admitted. 
On  February  20th,  1896,  the  Society  was  incorporated  by  Act  of 
Congress,  which  required  that  it  should  file  an  annual  report  with  the 
Secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  and  permitted  it  to  deposit, 
either  in  that  Institution  or  in  the  National  Museum,  its  collection  of 
historical  material.  During  its  first  twenty-five  years  the  Society  in- 
creased to  a  membership  of  more  than  114,000,  with  upward  of 
1430  Chapters,   exclusive  of  those  in  Cuba,   Mexico   and  the  Philippines. 

The  first  practical  step  toward  the  erection  of  the  Memorial  Con- 
tinental Hall  dates  from  June  4th,  1902,  when  the  building  committee 
voted  to  purchase  the  present  site,  formerly  occupied  by  the  city  resi- 
dence of  Captain  Thomas  Carberry,  Mayor  of  Washington  during 
1822-24.  In  January,  1904,  Mr.  Casey's  plans  were  accepted,  and  on 
April  19th  of  that  same  year  the  cornerstone  was  laid  with  Masonic 
rites,  the  gavel  used  being  the  historic  one  used  by  Washington  for 
laying  the  cornerstone  of  the  Capitol.  The  work  was  pushed  so 
rapidly  that  the  central  portion  of  the  building  was  sufficiently  ad- 
vanced by  April,  1905,  to  allow  the  fourteenth  Continental  Congress 
to  be  held  there.  The  whole  building  was  practically  completed  by  the 
spring  of  1907,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  interior  decorations,  furni- 
ture and  window  hangings  were  in  place  by  1910.  In  1914  began  the 
purchase  of  additional  ground  back  of  the  Hall;  and  the  society  now 
owns  practically  the  entire  block  bounded  by  17th,  18th,  C  and  D  Sts. 
When  war  was  declared  this  ground  was  offered  to  the  Government, 
and  was   used   for  the  offices   of  the   National   Council    of    Defense. 

On  Nov.  12,  1 92 1,  the  first  plenary  meeting  of  the  Conference  on 
the  Limitation  of  Armament,  as  well  as  the  closing  meeting  three 
months  later,  were  held  in  the  Memorial  Continental  Hall.  The  flag- 
staff penholder  made  of  native  wood  from  28  states  and  territories, 
with  which  Secretary  Hughes  signed  the  treaty  is  preserved  in  the 
society's   museum. 

The  Hall  is  a  rectangular  structure  consisting  of  a 
basement,  two  stories  and  an  attic.  It  has  corner  pavilions 
and  two  notable  porticoes.  The  larger  one,  occupying  the 
centre  of  the  main,  or  eastern  fagade,  rises  through  the  two 
main  stories,  is  supported  by  sixteen  massive  drum  columns 
on  the  Ionic  order,  and  surmounted  by  a  pediment.  The 
four  columns  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  respectively  are  grouped 
in  pairs,  leaving  a  sufficient  central  space  for  a  driveway.  The 
second,  or  memorial  portico,  projects  from  the  S.  facade  and 
is  semi-circular  in  form.  It  rests  upon  a  spacious  marble 
terrace,  to  which  a  stairway  ascends.  Like  the  east  portico, 
it  rises  throughout  the  main  superstructure,  and  is  supported 
upon  thirteen  monolithic,  fluted,  Ionic  columns,  which  were 
the  gift  respectively  of   either  the   Society  Chapters,   or  the 


D.    A.    R.    CONTINENTAL    HALL  157 

Legislatures  of  the  thirteen  original  states,  and  stand  in  the 
order  in  which  these  states  entered  the  Union,  namely : 
1.   Delaware;   2.   Pennsylvania;   3.   New   Jersey;   4.   Georgia; 

5.  Connecticut;  6.  Massachusetts;  7.  Maryland;  8.  South  Car- 
olina; 9.  New  Hampshire;  10.  Virginia;  II.  New  York;  12. 
North  Carolina;   13.  Rhode  Island. 

At  the  main  entrance  are  three  pairs  of  memorial  bronze 
doors,  the  central  pair  being  in  memory  of  the  Society's 
Founders  and  Charter  Members,  presented  by  Mrs.  Francis 
Berger  Moran,  while  the  N.  and  S.  doors  were  respectively 
the  gifts  of  the  Society's  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts  mem- 
bers.    These  doors  admit  the  visitor  directly  into : — 

The  Entrance  Hall.  This  is  a  spacious  parallelogram 
whose  white  marble  walls  are  divided  into  panels  by  ten 
pairs  of  Ionic,  fluted  pilasters.  In  the  centre  of  the  inlaid 
marble  floor  is  sunken  the  coat-of-arms  of  Pennsylvania  in 
bronze,  the  Entrance  Hall  being  the  gift  of  the  Chapters  of 
that  state.  The  sole  furnishings  and  decorations  in  this  cham- 
ber are  two  benches  and  four  chairs,  upholstered  in  green 
leather,  a  fine  old  hall  clock  and  a  number  of  marble  busts. 
A  few  of  the  latter  are  on  pedestals  arranged  along  the  wall, 
and  include:  1.  Martha  Washington;  2.  Oliver  Ellsworth; 
3.  Thomas  Jefferson;  4.  Benjamin  Franklin;  5.  Mrs.  Mary 
Hammond  Washington,  the  first  "real  daughter."  Ten  other 
busts  occupy  the  circular  niches  in  the  panels  forming  the 
frieze.  These,  with  the  organizations  presenting  them,  are  as 
follows:  1.  George  Washington  (D.  A.  R.,  Washington 
State)  ;  2.  John  Hancock  (John  Hancock  Chapter,  Mass.)  ; 
3.  Edward  Hand  (D.  A.  R.,  Kan.)  ;  4.  Isaac  Shelby  (D.  A.  R., 
Ky.)  ;    5.    James    Edward    Oglethorpe     (D.    A.     R.,    Ga.)  ; 

6.  John  Adams  (John  Adams  Chapter,  Mass.)  ;  7.  Ethan 
Allen  (D.  A.  R.,  Vt.)  ;  8.  John  Stark  (D.  A.  R.,  N.  H.)  ; 
9.  George  Clinton  (N.  Y.  C.  Chapter,  N.  Y\)  ;  10.  Nathan 
Hale  (D.  A.  R.,  Conn.). 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Entrance  Hall,  facing  the  main 
entrance,  are  the  doorways  opening  into  the  Auditorium, 
which  rises  throughout  the  height  of  the  building,  and  is 
lighted  bv  a  ground-glass  ceiling,  divided  into  twenty-five 
panels.  The  Auditorium  contains  three  large  galleries  on 
the  N.,  E.  and  S.  sides  respectively,  and  has  a  seating  capac- 
ity of  approximately  2000.  All  the  furnishings  of  the  Audi- 
torium, including  the  platform,  boxes  and  rest-rooms,  are  the 
several  gifts  of  Chapters  and  individuals,  the  complete  list 
of  which  may  be  found  in  the  Society's  Handbook.  (For  sale 
in  the  Entrance  Hall,  price  25  cents.)  Note  especially  the 
large  tables,  one  of  which  is  a  facsimile  of  the  historic  table 


i58  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

on  which  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed;  the 
other  is  of  Hawaiian  Koa  wood,  the  gift  of  the  Aloha  Chap- 
ter, Honolulu. 

On  the  west  wall  of  the  Auditorium,  to  L.  and  R.  of  the 
platform  respectively,  hang  two  paintings :  i.  Martha  Wash- 
ington, by  Eliphalet  F.  Andrews;  2.  Washington  on  Dorches- 
ter Heights,  by  Darius  Cobb. 

It  is  said  that  the  artist  received  his  inspiration  from  reading  a 
letter  written  by  Washington  to  Lee,  describing  the  heavy  sense  of 
responsibility  which  weighed  upon  him  as  he  stood  on  those  heights 
at  daybreak,  watching  the  havoc  wrought  upon  the  British  fleet  by  the 
night's  storm.  This  picture  was  presented  as  a  memorial  to  Mary  A. 
Livermore  in  fulfillment  of  her  expressed  desire  that  it  should  be 
given  to  the  Society. 

Hanging  from  the  cornice  of  the  Auditorium  are  forty- 
eight  flags,  twelve  on  each  of  the  four  sides,  representing  the 
several  states  of  the  Union  and  arranged  in  the  order  in 
which  the  states  ratified  the  Constitution,  from  Delaware, 
1787,  to  Arizona,  1912.  During  the  week  of  the  annual 
Continental  Congress  there  is  also  hung,  suspended  from 
the  ceiling,  the  Betsy  Ross  flag,  consisting  of  a  circle  of  thirteen 
stars  on  a  field  of  blue  (given  by  the  Flag  House  Chapter, 
Philadelphia,  Pa.). 

In  the  side  walls  of  the  Auditorium  are  ten  pairs  of  slid- 
ing mahogany  doors,  all  of  them  memorials,  those  on  the  N. 
side  opening  into  the  Library;  and  those  on  the  S.  side  open- 
ing into  the  Museum.  The  main  doorways,  however,  to  the 
library  and  museum  open  respectively  from  the  N.  and  S. 
corridors,  which  branch  off  R.  and  L.  from  the  Entrance 
Hall. 

The  Library  began  from  a  nucleus  of  125  volumes,  and 
was  officially  recognized  as  part  of  the  Society's  working 
equipment  in  1896,  when  the  office  of  Librarian  General  was 
created.  The  collection  now  numbers  upward  of  11,000 
titles,  and  is  strong  in  American  history,  with  special  refer- 
ence to  local  and  family  histories.  A  collection  of  works  on 
Georgia,  to  be  known  as  the  Emily  Hcndree  Park  Memorial, 
was  presented  by  the  Georgia  Chapters  of  the  Society,  to- 
gether with  a  bronze  bas-relief  portrait  of  Mrs.  Park,  State 
Regent  of  Georgia,  1899-1902,  and  Vice-President  General, 
1904-07. 

The  furnishings  of  the  Library,  including  the  steel  stacks,  were  the 
gift  of  the  Mary  Washington  Chapter,  "the  first  organized  and  the 
largest  in  the  District  of  Columbia."  Among  objects  of  special  interest 
in  the  Library  are:  1.  Portrait  of  Mary  S.  Lockwood,  one  of  the 
founders  (author  of  Historic  Homes  of  Washington,  and  successively 
Historian  General,  Librarian  General  and  Chaplain  General  of  the 
D.  A.  R.),  painted  by  Aline  E.  Solomons,  a  Washington  artist,  and 
another   former   Librarian   General;   2.    A    replica   of  Houdon's  Washing- 


D.    A.    R.    CONTINENTAL    HALL  159 

ton,    the    gift    of    Miss    E.    B.    Johnston,    a    former    Historian    General; 

3.    An    arm-chair    from    the    former    Dolly    Madison    House,    now    the 

,     Cosmos  Club   (p.    188) ;  4.   Portrait  of  Thomas  McKean,   a  Signer  of  the 

Declaration  of  Independence,  together  with  an  old  divan  from  his  home. 

The  Museum  occupying  on  the  South  side  of  the  Audi- 
torium a  position  corresponding  to  that  of  the  Library  on  the 
North,  and  opening  upon  the  Memorial  Portico,  was  given  by 
the  N.  Y.  C.  Chapter,  which  also  gave  most  of  the  furnishings, 
including  five  exhibition  cases,  and  the  window  draperies  of 
lace  and  old-rose  damask. 

Among  the  exhibits  contained  in  the  Museum  are:  two  tapestries, 
the  larger  of  which,  "The  Conqueror's  Return,"  dates  from  the  16th 
century,  while  the  other,  portraying  the  "Last  Supper,"  wras  made  in 
1770;  a  model  of  the  frigate  Constitution;  a  colonial  mirror,  from  near 
Hartford,  Connecticut,  where  it  is  said  to  have  lain  buried  for  eight 
years  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution;  and  two  quaint  rush-bottomed 
f     chairs,   brought   to   America   in   the   Mayflower. 

The    principal    Administrative    Offices     (with    the    excep- 
tion    of     the     Treasurer's     and     [Registrar's     offices,     which 
are     in     the     rear)     are     situated     on     the     main     front     of 
the  building,   and  open   respectively   on  the  North  and   South 
Corridors.     The  Business   Office,  the  gift  of   the  Missouri 
Chapters,    is    situated   immediately   N.   of   the   Entrance   Hall. 
On    the    walls    are    a    portrait    of    Mrs.    John    R.    Walker, 
first  Vice-President  General  of  Missouri ;  and  a  bronze  tab- 
let commemorating  the  famous   Pony  Express,  which  origi- 
I    nated  in  St.  Joseph,  and  was  appropriately  presented  by  the 
St.  Joseph  Chapter.    The  Office  of  the  Historian  General 
was  the  gift  of   the   Ohio   Chapters,   including  the  wall-cov- 
i    ering  of  old-gold  damask,  and  the  window  and  door  draperies 
of  royal-blue  velvet.    The  Office  of  the  Registrar  General 
|   was  the  gift  of  the  Iowa  Chapters  collectively,  while  the  fur- 
j    nishings  were  severally  presented  by  the  Rose  Standish,  Abi- 
1   gail  Adams,  Council  Bluffs  and  other  Chapters.    The  Office 
J   of  the  Treasurer  General,  given  by  the  Maryland  Chapters, 
contains    several   interesting  pictures,    including:     1.    portrait 
:    of   Samuel  Chase,  a  Signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Indepen- 
dence ;  2.  portrait  of  Mrs.  A.  L.  Knott,  founder  of  the  D.  A.  R. 
J   in    Maryland ;    3    portrait    o<f    Thomas    Johnson,    first    Gov- 
ernor  of    Maryland,   by    Waldemar   F.  Dieterich    (b.    1876), 
from  Johnson  Family  Group,  by  Charles  Wilson  Peale.    The 
adjoining  Treasurer  General's  Private  Office  is  the  gift  of 
Tennessee,  and  contains  a  portrait  of  Andrew  Jackson,  framed 
in  hickory;  also  a  painting  representing  "The  Hermitage  and 
Tomb  of  President  Jackson."     The  Office  of  the  Organiz- 
ing   Secretary    General,    inclusive    of    all    furnishings,    was 
'  the  gift  of  the  Illinois  Chapters.     Note  especially  the  quaint 
'   design   of  the  chairs,   with  brocaded  green   hair-cloth   seats. 


i6o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

This  room  contains  a  portrait  of  George  Rogers  Clark,  a 
bronze  statuette  of  Clark,  and  a  candlestand  which  once  be- 
longed to  William  Penn.  The  Reception  Room  was  appro- 
priately given  by  the  District  of  Columbia  Chapters.  It 
contains  a  portrait  of  Miss  Mary  Desha,  a  founder  of  the 
Society,  by  Aline  E.  Solomons;  a  picture  of  "A  Visit  of 
Washington  to  Monticello,"  and  a  pen-and-ink  drawing  of 
"Washington  in  the  Heart  of  His  Country." 

Adjoining  the  elevator  in  the  South  Corridor,  is  a  bronze 
tablet  designed  by  Mrs.  Sally  James  Farnham,  of  New  York, 
and  inscribed  as  follows : 

"This  elevator  was  given  in  memory  of  Josiah  Bartlett,  Signer  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  Mary  Bartlett,  his  wife,  by  one 
of  their  descendants." 

This  tablet  also  contains  a  bas-relief  reproduction  of 
Trumbull's  portrait  of  Josiah  Bartlett,  and  of  the  latter's 
home  in  Kingston,  N.  H.  Another  bronze  tablet  in  the  Cor- 
ridor commemorates  the  "Heroes  of  the  Independence." 

The  South  and  North  Main  Staircases  are  respectively 
the  gift  of  the  Chapters  of  Minnesota,  and  of  the  Fort  Greene 
Chapter,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  The  latter  is  a  Memorial  to  Mrs. 
S.  V.  White,  whose  tireless  efforts  on  behalf  of  the  Prison- 
ship  Martyrs'  Monument  are  commemorated  by  a  tablet  bear- 
ing bas-relief  presentment  of  the  monument,  at  the  first  turn  of 
the  stairs. 

Second  Story.  The  most  important  room  on  this  floor  is 
the  National  Board  Room,  the  gift  of  the  Connecticut 
Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution  and  for  that  reason 
sometimes  called  the  "Connecticut  Room."  The  visitor  should 
note  especially  the  spacious  mahogany  table,  around  which 
the  Board  holds  its  meetings ;  the  twenty-one  carved  chairs, 
thirteen  of  which  bear  the  coats-of-arms  of  the  original  thir- 
teen states ;  the  President  General's  chair,  being  a  facsimile 
of  Washington's  chair  in  Independence  Hall,  used  by  him 
during  the  Constitutional  Convention ;  the  blue  satin  draperies 
bearing  the  state  arms  of  Connecticut  embroidered  in  gold; 
the  rug  especially  woven  abroad  with  an  oak-leaf  border  design 
typical  of  Connecticut's  "Charter  Oak" ;  and  lastly  the  lace 
window  curtains,  consisting  of  a  star-and-stripe  pattern,  also 
designed  and  woven  expressly  for  this  room. 

Other  rooms  on  this  floor  include :  i.  The  President 
General's  Reception  Room,  the  gift  of  Alabama  Chapters, 
and  containing,  among  other  objects,  a  portrait  of  Mrs.  J. 
Morgan  Smith,  former  State  Regent  of  Alabama;  and  a 
carved  chair  from  Belle  Mina,  residence  of  Thomas  Bibb, 
first   Governor  of   that   State.    2.  Office  of  the  President 


D.    A.    R.    CONTINENTAL    HALL  161 

General,  gift  of  Indiana  Chapters,  containing  portraits  of 
Mrs.  Donald  McLean,  President  General,  1905-09,  and  of 
Mrs.  Cornelia  Cole  Fairbanks,  who  presided  over  the  cere- 
monies attending  the  laying  of  the  cornerstone  of  Memorial 
Continental  Hall,  and  also  presided  over  the  first  Continental 
Congress  held  therein.  3.  Office  of  the  Recording  Secre- 
tary General,  gift  of  New  York  Chapters.  Among  the 
relics  here  preserved  are  a  mahogany  folding  table  on  which 
George  and  Martha  Washington  took  supper  (its  authenticity 
being  vouched  for  by  two  framed  affidavits)  ;  also  a  framed 
original  autograph  poem  by  Dolly  Madison,  dated  1848.  4. 
Office  of  the  Corresponding  Secretary  General,  gift  of  the 
Texas  Chapters.  5.  Certificate  Room,  given  by  the  Massa- 
chusetts Chapters.  This  room  contains  numerous  relics, 
including  a  chair  from  the  Josiah  Quincy  Mansion,  a  table 
which  had  been  in  the  Warren  family  for  many  generations, 
an  antique  clock,  presented  by  the  Boston  Tea  Party  Chapter, 
and  a  copy  of  "America"  in  the  author's  handwriting.  6. 
Office  of  the  Assistant  Historian  General  (California 
Chapters).  On  the  walls  of  this  room  are  several  interest- 
ing pictures,  including  the  "Mission  of  Dolores  of  St.  Francis 
Assisi,"  by  Alice  B.  Crittenden  (b.  i860)  ;  "Springtime  at  San 
Juan  Capistrano  Mission";  and  three  framed  groups  of  pic- 
tures (six  in  each)  of  California  Missions,  especially  valu- 
able since  several  of  these  Missions  have  ceased  to  exist; 
also  a  marble  bas-relief  panel,  "California,  and  the  National 
Society  of  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution,"  by 
Julia  Bracken  Wendt.  Note  also  the  frieze  of  California  pop- 
pies, designed  especially  for  this  room.  8.  Committee  Room 
(New  Jersey  Chapters).  This  room  is  notable  chiefly  for  its 
unique  furniture  and  woodwork,  all  of  which  was  made  from 
the  oaken  timbers  of  the  British  frigate  Augusta,  sunk  during 
the  Battle  of  Red  Bank,  N.  J.,  October  23d,  1777,  where  it 
lay  for  more  than  a  century  in  the  waters  of  the  Delaware 
River,  mellowing  to  its  present  varied  shades  of  silver-gray. 
On  the  walls  hang  portraits  of  the  five  Signers  of  Declaration 
of  Independence  for  New  Jersey:  1.  Richard  Stockton,  after 
original  by  Sully;  2.  President  Witherspoon,  copy  of  original 
at  Princeton  University;  3.  Abraham  Clark;  4.  John  Hart, 
and  5.  Francis  Hopkinson,  after  original  in  Independence 
Hall,  Philadelphia. 

Third  Floor.  The  chief  attraction  on  this  floor  is  the 
Banquet  Hall,  finished  throughout  in  blue  and  white,  which 
are  the  National  Society's  colors.  The  furniture  is  of  mahog- 
any, upholstered  in  hair-cloth  of  a  somewhat  darker  blue. 


162  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

"Each  article,  dining-tables,  side-tables,  side-board,  chairs,  silver, 
china,  and  even  the  smallest  article  in  the  fire-place,  have  been  the 
tribute  of  Chapters  and  individuals  throughout  the  Society,  to  this 
Memorial  Room.''  (The  contributing  Chapters  and  individuals  number 
together    79.) 

The  other  rooms  on  this  floor  include:  I.  The  Commit- 
tee Room,  gift  of   the  Maine   Chapters.     Interesting   details: 

a.  Pine-cone  pattern  rug,  green  and  brown,  product  of  a  spe- 
cial  industry  of   Cranberry   Island,   off  the  coast  of   Maine; 

b.  Mantel,  removed  from  a  Washington  house  formerly  occu- 
pied by  Henry  Clay ;  c.  Mahogany  pedestal  and  case,  includ- 
ing ceiling  electric  lamp,  from  Battleship  Maine  (sunk  in 
Havana  Harbor),  presented  by  the  Navy  Department.  2. 
Room  of  the  Children  of  the  American  Revolution.  This 
memorial  room  and  its  furnishings  were  presented  by  the 
C.  A.  R.  It  contains  a  portrait  by  Tarbell,  of  Mrs.  Daniel 
Lathrop,  founder  of  the  C.  A.  R.  3.  Private  Dining  IRoom, 
gift  of  the  Virginia  Chapters.  It  contains  portraits  of  Francis 
Lightfoot  Lee,  of  Dolly  Madison  and  of  Chief  Justice  John 
Marshall;  also  a  framed  miniature  of  Patrick  Henry,  and  an 
etching  of  Christ  Church,  Alexandria.  The  marble  coat-of- 
arms  of  Virginia  was  a  gift  from  the  sculptor,  Moses  Ezekiel. 
4.  The  Kentucky  Room,  containing  interesting  colonial  furni- 
ture from  that  state.  5.  Delaware  Room,  given  to  the  State 
of  Delaware  in  memory  of  Mrs.  Caroline  Peterson  Mahon 
Dennison,  by  her  surviving  sisters.  The  furniture  was  given 
by  the  State  Chapters.  There  are  also  on  this  floor  the  West 
Virginia  Room,  the  Editorial  Office  of  the  D.  A.  R. 
Magazine,  and  the  apartment  of  the  Superintendent. 

The  new  Administration  Building  now  in  course  of 
erection  (1922)  is  placed  some  75  ft.  W.  of  the  Hall,  and  has  a 
frontage  of  no  ft.  and  depth  of  100  ft.  It  is  a  white  lime- 
stone structure  of  dignified  design,  harmonizing  with  that  of 
the  main  building,  but  properly  subordinated  to  it. 

The  new  building  was  planned  purely  as  a  business  office  to  serve 
the  special  working  needs  of  the  society.  The  chief  feature  of  the  first 
floor  is  the  central  rotunda  devoted  to  membership  files  and  card 
catalogues,  and  surrounded  -by  wide  corridors  leading  to  the  offices  of 
the  National  Officers  and  Executive  Manager  and  to  the  working 
departments  of  the  society.  The  second  floor  contains  offices  and  living 
quarters  of  the  President  General;  an  Assembly  Room,  with  seating 
capacity  of  150;  offices  of  the  D.  A.  R.  Magazine;  and  a  large  meeeting 
room  for   the   Children   of   the  American   Revolution. 

d.     The  Pan  American  Union  Building 

The  home  of  the  *Pan  American  Union  (PI.  II — C5) 
occupies  a  five-acre  block  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  17th 
St.,  facing  the  Executive  Grounds,  and  extending  from  B  tj 
to  C  St.,  N.  W.  This  site  was  long  known  as  "Van  Ness 
Park"    (p.    170),    and   some  years    ago   was    acquired    by  the 


THE    PAN    AMERICAN    UNION  163 

George  Washington  University  (p.  214),  whose  change  of 
plans,  however,  placed  it  again  upon  the  market.  The  pres- 
ent building,  begun  in  1908  and  dedicated  April  26th,  1910, 
is  a  square  structure  of  white,  blue-veined  Georgia  marble, 
measuring  about  160  ft.  each  way.  Its  architectural  order 
is  a  combination  of  Renaissance  motives  in  what  has  aptly 
been  termed  a  Mediterranean  blend,  combining  as  it  does 
French,  Italian  and  Spanish  derivations.  The  plans  chosen 
were  the  result  of  an  architectural  competition  in  which  75 
designs  of  high  merit  were  submitted.  The  successful  archi- 
tects were  Albert  Kelsey  and  Paul  P.  Cret,  of  Philadelphia. 
The  total  cost  of  the  building  and  grounds  was  about  $1,100,- 
000,  of  which  $850,000  was  given  by  Andrew  Carnegie  and 
the  balance  by  the  American  Republics,  including  the  United 
States. 

This  building  is  open  to  the  public  week-days  from  9  A.  M. 
to  4  P.  M. ;  from  the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber, it  closes  on  Saturdays  at  1  P.  M. 

History.  The  Pan  American  Union  is  an  organization 
voluntarily  maintained  by  the  twenty-one  American  Repub- 
lics, and  devoted  to  the  development  and  conservation  of 
commerce,  friendly  intercourse  and  good  understanding  among 
the  nations  composing  it. 

It  was  the  outcome  of  the  first  Pan  American  Confer- 
ence, held  in  Washington  in  1889-90,  and  presided  over  by 
James  G.  Blaine,  then  Secretary  of  State.  A  resolution  was 
then  passed  by  the  delegates  providing  for  a  "Commercial 
Bureau  of  the  American  Republics."  At  the  second  Pan 
American  Conference,  held  at  Mexico  City  in  1901,  the 
name  was  changed  from  "Commercial"  to  "International 
Bureau."  At  the  third  Conference,  held  at  Rio  de  Janeiro 
in  1906,  the  scope  of  the  organization  was  still  further 
broadened,  and  at  the  fourth  Conference,  at  Buenos  Aires 
19 10,  the  preesnt  name.  Pan  American  Union,  was  adopted. 
The  Union  as  now  constituted  is  controlled  by  a  Governing 
Board,  composed  of  the  Secretary  of  State  of  the  United 
States  and  of  the  diplomatic  representatives  at  Washington 
of  the  other  American  nations,  and  administered  by  a  Di- 
rector General  and  Assistant  Director  chosen  by  the  Boafd. 
Among  the  Union's  many  activities  may  be  mentioned:  1.  A 
large  correspondence,  averaging  many  thousand  letters  per 
month  with  diplomatic  representatives  and  other  officials  of 
foreign  countries,  with  manufacturers,  importers,  exporters, 
capitalists,  investors,  etc. ;  2.  The  publication  of  a  monthly 
bulletin  in  magazine  fonm,  in  three  separate  editions :  English, 
Spanish  and  Portuguese,  devoted  to  current  information  con- 


THE    PAN    AMERICAN    UNION  165 

cerning  the  American  Republics;  3.  The  publication  and  distri- 
bution of  booklets  on  each  of  the  Latin-American  nations;  4. 
The  maintenance  of  a  library,  known  as  the  Columbus 
Memorial  Library  (p.  37),  devoted  to  books  relating  to  the 
American  Republics. 

From  December  1906  until  the  new  building  was  com- 
pleted, the  Union  occupied  an  old  residence  on  the  cor.  of 
Lafayette  Sq.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.   (p.  184). 

The  Present  Building.  The  main  fagade,  approached  by 
broad  marble  steps,  consists  of  a  lofty  central  portico  with 
sloping  roof  of  corrugated  tiles,  and  divided  by  four  Corin- 
thian pilasters  into  three  panels  occupied  by  the  three  stately 
entrance  arches.  Flanking  the  portico  are  two  simple,  massive 
pylons,  which  give  to  the  fagade  something  of  the  effect 
produced  by  the  customary  two  towers  of  typical  Latin- 
American  church  architecture.  Beyond  the  pylons,  on  eithei 
side,  are  extensions  designed  to  contain  the  working  offices, 
library  book-stacks  and  other  adjuncts  to  the  main  central  pur- 
pose of  the  Union,  and  therefore  properly  subordinated  in 
their  relative  proportions. 

The  sculptures  of  the  main  fagade  symbolize  the  equal 
share  of  the  northern  and  southern  continents  in  this  Union 
of  American  Republics.  On  either  side  of  the  entrance  steps, 
against  the  pylons,  are  two  sculptured  groups  :  on  R.,  North 
America,  by  Gutzon  B  or  glum  (1867 — )  ;  on  L.,  South  Amer- 
ica, by  Isidore  Konti  (1862 — ).  In  each  of  these  groups  a 
draped  female  figure  is  cherishing  a  nude  boy,  just  awaken- 
ing to  adolescence.  Above  these  groups,  on  a  line  with  the 
cornice,  are  two  panels  in  low  relief,  each  expressing  an  act 
of  heroic  self-sacrifice :  on  R.,  Washington  Bidding  Farewell 
to  his  Generals,  by  Gutzon  B  or  glum;  on  L.,  San  Martin,  hav- 
ing liberated  Chili  and  Peru  from  the  Spanish  Yoke,  meets 
Bolivar  and  relinquishes  his  Leadership,  by  Konti. 

Above  the  bas-reliefs,  respectively,  are  two  symbolic  birds,  the  Eagle 
of  North  America  and  the  South  American  Condor,  both  by  Solon 
Borglum  (1868 — ).  In  the  cornice  above  the  portico  arches  is  a  panel 
of  reddish  gray  marble  inscribed  in  large  Roman  letters,  "Pan  Amer- 
ican Union."  At  either  end  of  the  inscription  is  a  decorative  design 
in  relief:  1.  (on  N.),  A  Caucasian  Child;  2.  (on  S.),  An  American 
Indian  Child,  each  surrounded  by  fruits  and  other  symbols  of  the  North 
and  the  South  {Isidore  Konti,  sculptor).  The  visitor  should  also  note 
the  pilaster  caps,  also  designed  by  Konti  and  showing  among  the  Acan- 
thus leaves  a  female  figure,  typifying  peace,  holding  olive  branches  and 
standing  upon  the  western  hemisphere. 

The  richly  wrought  bronze  grills  of  the  three  entrance 
gates  deserve  detailed  examination.  They  are  said  to  be 
specifically  suggested  <by  the  grills  in  the  Cathedral  of  Sara- 
gossa,  Spain,  but  with  free  adaptation  through  the  introduction 
of  eagles,  condors  and  various  Latin-American  motives. 


166  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

A  detailed  study  of  the  ornamentation  of  this  building,  both 
within  and  without,  well  repays  the  visitor,  who  will  discover  on  all 
sides  motives  derived  not  only  from  Spanish  colonial  architecture,  but 
also  from  Aztec  and  Mayan  aboriginal  art.  For  example:  the  decorations 
of  the  parapet  of  the  section  flanking  the  pylons  are  adopted  from  the 
foundation  of  the  Salto  del  Agua,  Mexico  City;  while  the  design  of  the 
balustrade  above  the  cornice  of  the  pylons  is  taken  from  the  Cathedral 
of   Chihuahua. 

The  entrance  doors  open  directly  upon  the  spacious 
Vestibule,  running  the  full  width  of  the  central  section  and 
rising  through  to  the  height  of  two  stories  to  its  barrel- 
arched  ceiling.  Opposite  the  entrance  arches  are  three  cor- 
responding arches  looking  out  upon  the  Patio,  access  to 
which  is  had  through  the  central  arch.  At  the  N.  and  S.  ends 
of  the  Vestibule  respectively,  are  a  pair  of  columns  flanked 
by  pilasters,  all  monoliths,  of  Grand  Antique  black  marble, 
veined  with  white,  with  bronze  capitals  and  bases.  Beyond 
these  columns,  at  the  S.  end,  is  the  reception  room,  at  the 
N.  end  a  retiring  room  for  women. 

The  chief  single  artistic  feature  of  the  Vestibule  is  the 
set  of  *Four  large  bas-relief  medalions  by  Konti,  placed  on 
the  E.  and  W.  walls,  high  up  in  the  spaces  between  the 
arches,  just  at  the  curve  of  the  vaulted  ceiling.  They  are  of 
a  dull  golden  bronze ;  and  each  contains  a  symbolic  female 
figure  whose  form  is  barely  veiled  by  filmy  drapery.  They 
represent,  respectively:  I.  "Enlightenment"  (holds  Roman 
lamp  in  left  hand)  ;  2.  "Peace"  (with  clasped  hands  holding 
olive  branch)  ;  3.  "Law"  (right  hand  upraised  in  admonish- 
ment, left  hand  holding  scroll)  ;  4.  "Patriotism"  (shield  on 
right  arm,  unfurled  flag  behind  her). 

The  marbles  of  the  Vestibule  floor  deserve  attention;  the  centre, 
of  Tennessee  marble,  is  surrounded  by  a  broad  inter-lacing  border  of 
Knoxville  marble,  outlined  by  brass,  which  forms  at  the  foot  of  each 
grand  stairway  a  loop  centered   by   Formosa   marble. 

*The  Patio.  The  most  unique  spot  in  this  exceptionally 
attractive  building  is  the  Patio,  or  central  court.  The  visitor 
entering  here  finds  himself  suddenly  in  the  midst  of  a  trans- 
planted corner  of  the  tropics.  On  all  sides  of  the  four  re- 
shaped flower  beds  there  arise  giant  palms,  bread-fruit  trees, 
rubber  plants  and  numerous  other  species  of  South  American 
flora  while  amid  this  foliage  brilliant  red  and  blue  Macaws 
scream  discordantly. 

The  walls  of  the  patio  are  of  a  rough  white  stucco  broken  on  all 
sides  by  wide  spaces  through  which  a  view  of  the  interior  may  be 
commanded  from  the  Vestibule,  the  stairways  and  the  Gallery  of 
Patriots.  Above  is  a  polychrome  terra-cotta  frieze  containing  the 
inscribed  names  of  twelve  great  leaders,  three  on  each  wall,  and  each 
of  them  flanked  by  two  escutcheons,  designed  to  contain  the  coats-of- 
arms    of    the    various    American    Republics.     As    it    happens    the    latter 


THE    PAN    AMERICAN    UNION  167 

number  at  present  only  twenty-one.  Accordingly  the  coat-of-arms 
of  Canada  has  been,  somewhat  incongruously,  included  (the  excuse 
being  found  in  the  inclusion  of  Champlain  among  the  inscribed  names)  ; 
while,  after  considerable  debate,  the  two  escutcheons  flanking  the  single 
name  of  Columbus,  were  filled  respectively  with  the  Scales  of  Freedom 
and  the  Broken  Chain,  symbolic  of  freedom.  Above  the  frieze  a  seven- 
foot  cornice,  tinted  in  bright  colors,  surrounds  the  court.  Its  design 
is  reminiscent  of  that  of  the  patio  in  the  Municipal  Palace  at  Barcelona. 
The  leaders  whose  names  were  chosen  to  be  enrolled  in  the  patio 
frieze  are  as  follows.  West  Wall:  San  Martin,  of  La  Plata  (now 
Argentina);  Columbus;  Washington.  North  Wall:  Marti,  of  Cuba; 
Hidalgo;  Morazan  of  Central  America.  East  Wall:  Champlain;  Boli- 
var, of  Venezuela;  O'Higgins,  of  Peru.  South  Wall:  Artigas,  ot 
Uruguay,    Bonifacio,   of   Brazil;    L'Ouverture,   of   Haiti. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Patio  is  a  fountain  modeled  and 
executed  by  Gertrude  Vanderbxlt  Whitney  (Mrs.  Harry  Payne 
Whitney). 

It  consists  of  an  octagonal  basin,  from  the  centre  of  which  rises 
a  pillar  supporting  two  other  basins  from  which  the  water  descends. 
The  chief  sculptural  motives  of  the  fountain  are  three  figures  on  the 
central  pillar  symbolizing  the  past,  present  and  future  of  America. 
The  first,  facing  the  entrance,  is  an  archaic  figure  of  an  Aztec  warrior; 
the  second  is  a  semi-barbarous  American  Indian  such  as  the  first 
European  explorers  found  him;  the  third  is  a  woman  whose  attitude _ 
and  gesture  seem  to  refuse  to  reveal  the  secret  of  the  future.  By  a 
complicated  mechanism  the  fountain  can  be  beautifully  illuminated, 
electrically,  at  night,  the  colors  and  change  of  water  being  controlled 
from  a  key-board  in  an  adjacent  room.  Another  notable  feature  of 
the  patio  is  the  pavement  of  Enfield  tile,  composed  of  small  cubes 
with  coarse  mosaic  designs  in  black,  adapted  from  Mayan  and  Incan 
originals  by  J.  H.  Dulles-Allen.  The  two  chief  groups,  one  of  two  seated 
figures,  the  other  of  three  figures,  of  which  the  central  one/  is<  standing, 
are  both  copied  from  low-reliefs  in  the  Palace  at  Palenque. 

W.  of  the  Patio  are  the  lobby  and  large  Reading  Room 
(100  ft.  by  40  ft.)  of  the  Columbus  Memorial  Library,  the 
offices  and  stack-rooms  of  which  occupy  almost  the  entire 
portion  of  both  stories  on  the  N.  side  of  the  building.  The 
library  has  grown  rapidly,- and  now  contains  (1922).  approxi- 
mately 50,000  volumes  of  works  relating  to  the  Americas  in 
English,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  French  and  German. 

The  library  is  open  free  for  reference  at  all  times  when 
the  building  itself  is  open  to  the  public.  There  are  private 
studies  for  the  use  of  persons  engaged  in  special  research  work. 

Among  the  interesting  exhibits  in  the  main  reading  room  are: 
a  huge  central  relief  map  of  Latin  America,  which  vividly  portrays  the 
topography  and  nature  of  the  land;  a  case  showing  the  leading 
agricultural  products  of  Central  and  South  America;  a  case  contain- 
ing various  different  species  of  valuable  woods,  including  Ebony, 
Royal  palm,  Black  heart  wood  and  Diablo  muerto  from  Central 
America,  Log-wood  from  Guatemala,  Mora  or  Fustic  wood  from  Mexico 
and  white  Mahogany  from  Bolivia;  and  a  case  containing  miscellaneous 
groups  of  the  products  of  Latin-America,  including  a  collection  of 
gold  and  silver  ores  and  other  minerals,  of  cocoa,  Dominican  Hemp 
and  the  Tonca  bean  from  Venezuela,  together  with  an  exhibit  illus- 
trating the  manufacture  of  Panama  hats. 


168  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  Gallery  of  Patriots.  The  visitor  may  now  return  to 
the  Vestibule  and  ascend  the  stairs  leading  into  the  foyer  on 
the  floor  above,  which,  with  the  adjacent  N.  corridor,  con- 
stitutes the  Gallery  of  Patriots.  This  collection  will  eventually 
consist  of  twenty-one  portrait  busts  in  marble,  each  of  which  is 
a  contribution  from  one  of  the  twenty-one  Republics.  The 
pedestals  on  which  they  rest  are  plain  square  pilasters  of  dark 
reddish-brown  Languedoc  marble,  which  is  also  used  for  the 
wall  bases  and  door  trims. 

Of  the  twenty-one  busts,  sixteen  are  already  in  place,  the  United 
States  being  temporarily  represented  by  a  plaster  copy  of  Houdon's 
Washington,  which  occupies  the  central  point  in  the  foyer,  facing  the 
Hall  of  the  Americas.  The  other  busts  already  in  place  are  as  follows, 
beginning  with  the  N.  aisle:  i.  Dessalines  (Normil  Ulysse  Charles, 
sculptor),  presented  by  Haiti;  2.  Marti,  presented  by  Cuba;  3.  Barrios, 
presented  by  Guatemala;  4.  Unanue,  presented  by  Peru;  5.  Sucre,  pre- 
sented by  Bolivia;  6.  Bolivar  (Rudolph  Evans,  sculptor),  presented  by 
Venezuela;  7.  San  Martin  (Herbert  Adams,  sculptor),  presented  by 
Argentine  Republic;  8.  O'Higgins,  presented  by  Chile;  9  Artigas  (/. 
Belloni,  sculptor),  presented  by  Uruguay;  10.  Jaurez,  presented  by 
Mexico;  11.  Bonifacio'  (Charpentier,  sculptor),  presented  by  Brazil;  12. 
Herrera  (Chester  Beach,  sculptor),  presented  by  Panama;  13.  Mora 
(Juan  R.  Bonill,  sculptor),  presented  by  Costa  Rica;  14.  Morazan, 
presented  by  Honduras;  15.  Delgardo  (Ferraris,  scuptor),  presented  by 
Salvador. 

Opening  from  the  foyer,  on  the  W.,  is  the  Hall  of  the 
Americas,  the  chief  show  room  of  the  building.  It  measures 
100  x  65  ft.,  and  is  finished  throughout  in  white,  the  only 
touches  of  color  being  the  purple  and  gold  of  the  furniture 
and  the  gilded  bronze  of  the  chandeliers.  The  vaulted  ceil- 
ing, barrel-arched  like  the  foyer  and  great  Vestibule,  is  sup- 
ported by  twenty-four  fluted  Corinthian  columns.  The  side 
columns  are  free  and  grouped  in  pairs  inclosing  side  aisles ; 
the  end  columns  are  engaged.  The  five  W.  windows,  cor- 
responding to  the  five  entrances  from  the  foyer,  have  colored 
borders,  consisting  of  the  arms  and  other  symbols  of  the 
American  Republics   (Nicola  D'Ascenzo,  artist). 

At  each  end  of  the  Hall  of  the  Americas  is  a  smaller 
hall,  originally  designed  respectively  for  the  Governing  Board 
Room,  and  the  Committee  or  Dining  Room.  The  latter 
(reached  from  the  foyer),  has  been  re-christened  the  Colum- 
bus Room,  and  contains  the  nucleus  of  a  collection  of  Colum- 
bus relics.  They  consist  mainly  of  early  woodcuts  and 
engravings,  facsimile  reproductions  of  ancient  maps  and  photo- 
graphs of  historic  spots  associated  with  the  great  Genoese. 

*The  Governing  Board  Room.  This  room  is  closed  to 
the  public;  but  visitors  may  obtain  a  fairly  satisfactory  view 
through  the  entrance  on.  the  E.  The  color  scheme  is  brown 
and  gold,  the  wall  covering  being  a  dull  ellow  brocade,  up  to 


TERHACE 


SECOND  FLOOR  PLAN  OF  THE  NEW  BUILDING  OF  THE 
PAN  AMERICAN  UNION 


i;o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

the  gilded  bronze  frieze.  The  chairs  and  oval  table  (20  x  9  ft.), 
are  Dominican  mahogany.  On  each  chair  are  carved  the  name 
and  coat-of-arms  of  one  of  the  Republics. 

The  most  noteworthy  single  feature  of  this  room  is  the  Bronze 
Frieze,  consisting  of  four  panels  illustrating  the  chief  events  in  the 
early  history  of  the  new  world'.  They  were  modeled  by  Sally  James 
Farnum  (Mrs.  Paulding  Farnum),  of  New  York,  and  have  a  uniform 
height  of  2  ft.  9  in. ;  the  length  of  the  side  and  end  panels  being 
respectively   25   ft.   and   9   ft.    6   in. 

South  Wall.  South  American  panel  (L.  to  R.)  :  1.  Pizarro's 
ruthless  conquest  of  the  peace-loving,  sun-worshipping  Incas;  2.  Simon 
Bolivar,  the  Liberator  of  South  America,  leading  his  dismounted  cav- 
alry across  the  Andes;  3.  San  Martin  and  O'Higgins  meeting  at  the 
Battle  of  Chacabuco,  181 7.  Separating  these  historic  scenes,  and 
framed  within  torsion  columns,  are  two  familiar  types  of  South  Amer- 
ica: on  L.,  the  Llama  driver,  wrapped  in  his  poncho;  on  R.,  the  gaucho 
or  roving  cowboy  of  the  pampas,  with  his  bolas  in  his  hand.  West 
Wall.  North  American  panel:  Champlain  negotiating  with  the  Indian 
chiefs.  North  Wall.  Mexican  and  Central  American  panel  (L.  to  R.)  : 
1.  Cortez  and  the  Aztecs  (note  especially  the  invader's  native  wife, 
Marina,  walking  beside  his  war  horse  and  preceded  by  the  sinister  figure 
of  the  Grand  Inquisitor;  2.  The  landing  of  Columbus;  3.  Balboa  dis- 
covering the  Pacific.  Dividing  these  scenes,  and  framed  by  reproduc- 
tions of  the  famous  Stela  of  Copan,  are  two  symbolic  figures:  1.  on 
L.,  Indian  figure  of  Goddess  of  Plenty,  representing  Agricultural 
Wealth;  2.  on  R.,  Indian  toiling  in  mine,  representing  Mineral 
Wealth.  East  Wall.  Brazilian  panel:  Dom  Joao,  King  of  Portugal, 
landing  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  cpmmemorating  the  transference,  in  1808, 
of  the  Portuguese  seat  of  government  to  the  New  World. 

Behind  the  main  building,  at  the  extreme  western  limit 
of  the  attractive  formal  garden,  is  the  Pan  American  Annex, 
erected  in  1912  (Kelsey  and  Cret,  architects),  its  dimensions 
and  position  being  in  part  dictated  by  the  desire  to  shut  from 
sight  certain  unsightly  factory  buildings.  It  is  used  for  extra 
offices,  exhibits  and  storage  purposes. 

Its  interest  to  visitors  centres  in  its  triple-arched  loggia,  which 
is  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  attempt  of  its  kind  to  re-embody  in 
modern  construction  the  aboriginal  art  of  Latin-America.  Here,  in 
both  high  and  low  relief,  in  bright  and  in  dull  colors,  fragments  of 
this  early  American  art  taken  from  Palanque,  Copan,  Quirigua,  Mitla 
and  Chichen-Itza  have  been  brought  together  and  faithfully  reproduced, 
affording  a  glimpse  of  the  highly  developed  civilization  which  flourished 
in  southern  America  before  the  coming  of  Columbus,  Cortez  and 
Pizarro.  The  splendor  of  Chichen-Itza,  the  Holy  city  of  early  Mexican 
civilization,  has  supplied  the  greater  part  of  the  design.  The  general 
form  of  the  composition  is  taken  from  its  famous  monastery.  The 
huge  monster's  head  in  the  centre  is  copied  from  the  Iglesia  or 
church,  and  the  two  standing  figures  on  either  side  of  the  jaws  are  from 
the  Temple  of  the  Jaguars,  while  the  smaller  panels,  of  various  forms 
and  colors,  have  been  taken  from  a  large  number  of  beautifully  sculp- 
tured  facades  and  crumbling  temples. 

The  large  figure  facing  the  pool  in  front  of  the  Annex  is  a  repro- 
duction of  a  famous  stone  carving  known  as  the  "Sad  Indian"  and 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  precious  relics  of  the  Aztec  period. 

Within  the  Pan-American  grounds  is  the  site  of  the  historic  cot- 
tage of  Davy  Burnes,  one  of  the  four  original  owners  of   the  land  com- 


THE    CORCORAN    ART    GALLERY  171 

prising  the  city  of  Washington.  This  cottage,  the  oldest  house 
in  Washington  (which  survived  to  the  end  of  the  19th  century)  was 
once  the  rendezvous  of  General  Washington,  Thomas  Jefferson, 
Alexander  Hamilton  and  Aaron  Burr.  Here  the  poet  Tom  Moore  was 
once  a  guest,  and  the  little  room  from  which  he  could  look  out  upon 
the  Potomac,  was  always  afterward  called  "Tom  Moore's  Room." 
Later,  when  Davy's  beautiful  daughter,  Marcia,  married  General  John 
P.  Van  Ness,  in  1802,  the  latter  built,  close  by  the  Burnes'  cottage, 
what  was  then  considered  "the  grandest  mansion  in  the  country," 
designed  by  Latrobe.  There  is  a  tradition  that  the  conspirators  who 
planned  the  assassination  of  President  Lincoln  originally  intended  to 
capture  him  alive  and  imprison  him  in  the  wine-vaults  of  this  house. 
After  standing  for  nearly  a  century,  the  old  house  finally  made  way  for 
the  Pan-American  Building.  The  Van  Ness  stable,  however,  situated 
in  the  rear  of  the  house,  was  renovated  and  occupied  as  the  residence 
of  the  Superintendent  of  the  new  building.  When  Mr.  Carnegie  gave 
$100,000  for  beautifying  the  grounds,  and  it  was  decided  to  erect  the 
Pan-American  Annex,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  stable,  it  became 
necessary  to  move  the  latter,  which  may  now  be  seen  in  the  extreme 
N.Wr.  cor.  of   the  grounds,  at   18th  and  C  Sts. 

II.     The  Corcoran  Art  Gallery 

**The  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art  (PI.  II— C5)  occupies  the 
eastern  half  of  the  triangular  block  bounded  by  New  York 
Ave.,  17th  and  E  Sts.,  with  its  main  fagade  and  entrance  on 
the  17th  St.  side  facing  the  Executive  Grounds  (p.  122). 
The  present  (and  second)  edifice  was  completed  in  1897, 
and  is  of  the  Neo-Grecian  order  of  architecture,  the  ma- 
terials employed  being  white  Georgia  marble,  on  a  basement 
of  Milford  pink  granite  {Ernest  Flagg,  architect).  Numer- 
ous windows  pierce  the  wall  of  the  lower  story,  giving  light 
to  the  galleries  of  statuary;  the  second  story,  however,  ot 
the  main  central  section  rises  in  a  solid  white  wall,  broken 
only  by  a  series  of  openwork  marble  panels  near  the  cornices, 
introduced  for  ventilating  purposes.  Just  above  these  panels  is 
a  narrow  frieze  bearing  in  Roman  letters  the  names  of  certain 
famous  painters  and  sculptors  of  ancient  and  modern  times. 
Above  the  cornice,  which  is  richly  carved,  the  glass  roof 
slopes  up  to  a  cresting  of  bronze,  surmounted  at  each  end 
of  the  building  by  a  winged  griffin.  The  prevailing  severity 
of  the  design  is  relieved  at  the  northern  or  New  York  Ave. 
end,  by  the  semi-circular  extension,  containing  the  offices  and 
studios  of  the  Corcoran  School  of  Art  (p.  184),  an  audito- 
rium, and  a  gallery  for  occasional  special  exhibits.  The  latter 
connects  with  the  main  picture  galleries  on  the  second  floor. 

History.  The  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art,  originally  situated  at 
the  cor.  of  17th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  was  the  gift  of  the  late 
William  Wilson  Corcoran  to  the  public,  by  deed  dated  May  ioth, 
1869.  By  the  terms  of  this  deed  the  Gallery  was  "to  be  used  solely 
for  the  purpose  of  encouraging  American  genius  in  the  production 
and    preservation    of    works    pertaining    to    the    Fine    Arts    and    kindred 


i72  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

objects,"  the  only  condition  attached  being  that  it  shall  be  open  free 
to   visitors   on   at   least  two   days  in   the   week. 

Mr.  Corcoran's  purpose  to  found  a  public  art  gallery  was  not 
accomplished  until  fifteen  years  after  its  inception.  The  erection  of 
the  original  art  gallery  was  begun  in  1859,  from  designs  by  James 
Renwick,  best  known  as  architect  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  New 
York  City  (see  Rider's  New  York,  p.  199).  But  before  its  comple- 
tion in  1861  the  Civil  War  had  broken  out,  and  the  building  was 
occupied  by  the  United  States'  Quartermaster-General's  Department, 
which  remained  there  until  1869.  On  the  10th  of  May  in  that  year, 
Mr.  Corcoran  placed  the  building  in  the  hands  of  a  board  of  nine 
trustees  for  the  purposes  above  named.  His  private  collection  of  pic- 
tures and  statuary  constituted  the  nucleus  of  the  exhibits.  The  museum 
was  finally  thrown  open  to  the  public  in   1874. 

As  early  as  1891  the  growth  of  the  art  collections  and  also  of 
the  Free  School  of  Art  which  meanwhile  had  been  established,  made  new 
and  more  spacious  quarters  necessary.  The  present  site  was  acquired 
and  a  number  of  prominent  architects  were  invited  to  submit  plans. 
Mr.  Flagg's  plans  having  been  accepted,  the  corner-stone  of  the 
building  was  laid  in  1894,  and  three  years  later,  on  Feb.  22,  1897, 
the  gallery  was  formally  opened  for  a  private  view.  Over  three  thou- 
sand invitations  were  issued,  the  guests  including  the  President  and 
Mrs.  Cleveland,  the  members  of  the  Cabinet  and  their  wives,  foreign 
Ambassadors   and  Ministers,  and  many  other  distinguished  personages. 

The  Gallery  is  open  to  the  public  as  follows :  on  Mondays 
from  12  M.  to  4.30  P.M.;  on  other  week-days,  from  9  A.M. 
to  4.30  P.M.;  on  Sundays,  from  1.30  to  4.30  P.M.;  on  holidays, 
from  10  A.M.  to  2  P.M.  (excepting  Christmas  and  July  4th, 
when  it  is  closed).  Admission  is  free  on  all  days,  excepting 
Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday,  when  a  fee  of  25c.  is  charged, 
unless  these  days  chance  to  fall  upon  a  holiday. 

The  following  publications  are  on  sale  at  the  desk  to  L. 
of  entrance :  "Illustrated  Catalogue  of  the  Paintings,"  75c. ; 
"Illustrated  Catalogue  of  the  Casts,  Marbles  and  Bronzes," 
25c. ;  "Handbook  of  the  Paintings  and  Sculptures"  (no  illus- 
trations), 25c.  Photographs  of  the  principal  works  of  art 
contained  in  the  collection  may  also  be  obtained  here.  On 
R.  of  entrance  is  a  cloak  room  where  articles  may  be  checked. 
Note  on  W.  wall  of  alcove  a  bronze  tablet  recording  the 
history  of  the  Corcoran  Gallery. 

Before  entering,  the  visitor  should  note,  on  R.  and  L. 
of  steps,  two  colossal  bronze  lions,  cast  from  moulds  of 
Canova's  lions,  which  guard  the  tomb  of  Clement  XIII  in 
St.  Peter's  Rome.  A  few  broad,  low  steps  within  the  en- 
trance bring  the  visitor  at  once  into  the  Central  Atrium,  the 
largest  hall  in  the  building,  170  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  wide,  the 
ceiling  of  which  is  supported  by  forty  fluted  monolith  columns 
of  Indiana  limestone.  Two  large  light-wells  in  the  ceiling 
admit  a  gently  diffused  ltight  from  the  glass  roof  of  the  upper 
story.  This  atrium  together  with  side  galleries  Nos.  6,  7  and  8 
(see  plan,  p.  173),  contains  the  museum's  well  chosen  collection 
of  casts  from  masterpieces  of  classic  and  Renaissance  sculpture. 


> 


o 


a]  3 


174  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Among  the  more  important  of  these  casts  may  be  men- 
tioned :  A.  From  Antique  Sculpture :  The  Frieze  of  the 
Parthenon,  consisting  of  194  feet  of  casts,  extending  around 
the  cornice  of  the  south  end  of  the  atrium;  the  Eastern  and 
Western  Pediments  of  the  Parthenon ;  the  Venus  of  Melos ; 
the  Venus  de  Medici;  the  Venus  of  the  Capitol;  Antinous 
of  the  Capitol ;  the  Laocoon  group :  and  the  Apollo  Belvedere ; 

B.  From  the  Renaissance :  A  cast  of  Ghiberti's  famous 
Bronze  Doors  to  the  Baptistry  in  Florence;  Goujon's  Nine 
Nymphs  of  the  Fountain  of  Innocents;  Michelangelo's  Sitting 
Statue  of  Lorenzo  de  Medici ;  Michelangelo's  Pieta  group, 
in  a  chapel  in  St.  Peter's,  Rome ;  and  Donatello's  Judith 
and  Holofernes,  in  the  Loggia  dei  Lanz'i,  Florence. 

Gallery  2  is  devoted  to  the  collection  of  bronzes  by 
Antoine-Louis  Barye  (1796-1875),  comprising  over  one  hun- 
dred specimens.  It  constitutes  one  of  the  most  complete  col- 
lections of  Barye's  work  extant,  and  was  secured  for  the 
Corcoran  Gallery  in  1873  directly  from  the  sculptor  himself. 
The  great  majority  are  animal  subjects,  and  serve  admirably 
to  show  this  sculptor's  special  skill  in  depicting  hunting  scenes 
and  combats  of  animals.  A  few  titles,  taken  almost  at  random, 
illustrate  his  uncommon  vesatility :  Wolf  holding  a  Stag  by  the 
Throat ;  Tiger  devouring  a  Gazelle ;  Panther  surprising  a 
Civet  Cat ;  Bull  dragged  to  earth  by  a  Bear ;  Python  crushing 
a  Crocodile ;  and  an  African  Badger  robbing  a  Nest. 

Galleries  3  and  4  contain  a  small  collection  of  modern 
marble  sculptures.  We  enter  Gallery  No.  3  through  S.  door 
of  No.  W  -The  sculptures  are  as  follows,  proceeding  from 
L    to    R.: 

Christian  Ranch  (1777-1857),  Alexander  Von  Humboldt 
(bust,  executed  for  Mr.  Corcoran  at  Von  Humboldt's  ex- 
press wish)  ;  John  C.  King,  bust  of  Commodore  Morris,  U.  S. 
N. ;    Henry    Kirke    Brown     (1814-86),    Vice-President    John 

C.  Breckenridge  (bust)  ;  Franklin  Simmons,  Justice  S. 
J.  Field ;  Horatio  Stone,  General  Baker ;  Larkin  G. 
Meade  (b.  1835),  Echo  (statuette);  Joseph  Ceracchi, 
Benjamin  Franklin;  Hiram  Powers  (1805-73),  William 
J.  Stone  (bust)  ;  Preston  Powers,  Hon.  Justin  S.  Mor- 
rill ;  Henry  Albert  Johnson,  Italian  Girl:  W.  O.  Partridge, 
Nearing  Home;  Joel  T.  Hart  (1810-77),  Henry  Clav  (bust); 
Preston  Powers,  Prof.  L.  J.  R.  Agassiz ;  /.  T.  Hart,  J.  J. 
Crittenden;  Sculptor  Unknown,  Bust  of  Shakespeare  (a  copy). 

In  centre:  U.  S.  J.  Dunbar,  Bust  of  William  Wilson  Cor- 
coran, 1798-1888. 

Through  the  S.  door  we  enter  Gallery  No.  4.  Conspicu- 
ous in  the  center  of  the  room  is  *The  Greek  Slave,  by  Hiram 


THE    CORCORAN    ART    GALLERY  175 

Powers,  The  other  statues  are  as  follows,  beginning  at  en- 
trance door:  C.  B.  Ives,  Statue  of  a  Child;  Thomas  Crawford 
(1813-57),  The  Peri  at  the  Gates  of  Paradise;  William  H. 
Rinehart  (1825-74),  II  Penseroso  (bust)  ;  Hiram  Powers,  Pro- 
serpine (bust)  ;  Antonio  Canova,  Napoleon  I.  (a  replica  of 
the  head  of  Canova's  colossal  statue  modeled  from  the  Em- 
peror at  Paris  in  1805)  ;  Hiram  Powers,  Genevra  (bust)  ; 
Trombctta,  The  First  Step ;  William  Ordway  Partridge,  Cres- 
cent and  Female  Head  (loaned)  ;  P.  Guamcrio ,  The  Forced 
Prayer;  W.  H.  Rinehart,  Endymion;  Alexander  GaJt  (1827- 
63),  Bacchante  (bust)  ;  Sculptor  Unknown,  The  Veiled  Nun 
(a  copy);  E.  Caroni,  Youth  as  a  Butterfly;  W.  H.  Rinehart, 
Sleeping  Children. 

Gallery  No.  5,  the  next  room  on  the  W.,  contains  col- 
lection of  Modern  Bronzes. 

Central  Exhibits  (E.  to  W.).  Paul  Manship,  Dancer  and 
Gazelles ;  Case  containing :  a.  Anne  Vaughan  Hyatt,  Man 
and  Horse ;  b.  Paul  Manship,  Nude  Figure  of  Woman ;  c,  d,  e, 
and  f.  Rodin,  Portrait  of  Mme.  Rodin ;  Sirens ;  The  Thinker ; 
Music;  g.  Marnier,  Three  plaques,  representing:  Group  of 
Miners ;  The  Globe ;  Men  at  the  Forge ;  Herman  A.  MacNeil 
(1866-  ),  The  Sun  Vow;  Frederic  Remington  (1861-1909), 
Off  the  Range. 

North  Wall:  Bessie  P.  Vonnoh  (1872-  ),  Enthroned; 
Edivard  Kemeys,  (1843-1907),  Jaguar  Lovers;  A.  Phimister 
Proctor  (1862-  ),  Indian  Warrior;  The  Same,  Indian  and 
Buffalo  Group;  E.  Kemeys,  Howling  Coyote. 

South  Wall:  Henry  Kirke  Bush-Brown  (1857-  ), 
Statuette  of  Cow;  Charles  Louis  Hint  on,  Atalanta;  Emile 
Antoine  BourdeHe,  Herakles ;  Bessie  P.  Vonnoh,  Day  Dreams. 

Galleries  6  and  7  contain  plaster  casts. 

Gallery  No.  8,  West  Wall:  (N.  to  S.)  :  William  Ord- 
way Partridge,  Pocahontas ;  Houdon,  Joel  Barlow  (plaster 
bust)  ;  Henry  J.  Ellicott,  George  Y.  Coffin  (bronze  bust)  ; 
Rinehart ,  Clytie  (cast  from  marble  original  in  Peabody  In- 
stitute, Baltimore)  ;  Chevalier  Trentanove,  Mrs.  Edwin  A. 
Newman  (marble  bust;  loaned);  Houdon,  Voltaire  (cast 
from  marble  original  in  vestibule  of  the  Theatre  Francais, 
Paris)  ;  U.  S.  J.  Dunbar,  Vice-President  Thomas  Hendricks 
(plaster  bust)  ;  Bertel  Thorwaldsen  (1770-1844),  Venus  (cast 
from  original  model  in  Copenhagen)  ;  Henry  K.  Bush-Brown. 
Dr.  James  C.  Hall  (bronze  bust)  ;  Jerome  Connor,  Thomas 
Moore  (bronze  bust)  ;  Houdon,  Bust  of  John  Paul  Jones,  cast 
from  original;  Augustus  Saint-Gaud  ens,  Hon.  David  J.  Hill 
(marble  bust). 


u> 


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THE  CORCORAN  ART  GALLERY      177 

South  Wall :  Augustus  Soint-Gaudens,  The  Puritan 
(Deacon  Samuel  Chapin),  from  the  original  bronze  at  Spring- 
field, Mass. ;  Franklin  Simmons,  Portrait  of  Miss  Nettie 
Louvisa  White  (marble  bas-relief)  ;  William  H.  Rinehart, 
James  C.  McGuire  (marble  bust). 

East  Wall:  John  Gibson  (1791-1866),  Venus  (cast  after 
original  marble  in  London)  ;  William  Rimmer,  Head  of  a 
Woman  (gray  granite);  Clark  Mills,  (1815-83),  Bust  of 
George  Washington  (bronze,  after  Houdon's  original  plaster 
bust)  ;  Louis  Saint  Gaudens  (1854-1913),  Mural  Tablet  to 
Prof.  Joseph  Henry  (cast  from  original  marble  at  Princeton 
University)  ;  Henry  J.  Ellicott  (1847-1901),  Bronze  Bust  of 
Samuel  H.  Kauffman,  President,  Corcoran  Gallery,  1894- 
1906;  Clark  Mills,  John  C.  Calhoun  (bronze  bust);  Canova, 
Venus  from  the  Bath  (cast  from  original  marble  in  Florence). 

North  Wall:  Houdon,  Mask  of  Washington  (plaster 
cast)  ;  Mrs.  L.  MacDonald  Slecth,  Gen.  John  M.  Wilson, 
U.  S.  A.  (marble  bust)  ;  Andreiv  O'Connor,  Jr.,  (b.  1874), 
Adam  and  Eve  (marble  group)  ;  The  Same,  Edward  Tuck,  Esq. 
(bronze  bust)  ;  Houdon,  Head  of  Washington   (plaster  cast). 

Central  Exhibits  (,N.  to  S.).  1.  Paul  W.  Bartlett  (1865-), 
Michelangelo ;  /.  Q.  A.  Ward  (1830-1910),  Indian  Hunter  (cast, 
from  original  bronze  »in  Central  Park,  N.  Y.)  ;  Charles  Raphael 
Peyrc   (1872-     ),  Crusading  for  the  Right   (bronze  figure). 

This  room  also  contains,  on  S.  and  E.  walls,  a  Collection 
of  Pastel  drawings,  by  John  McLanc  Hamilton,  28  in  number, 
the  gift  of  Mrs.  E.  H.  Harriman. 

Directly  opposite  the  main  entrance,  a  spacious  stairway 
of  white  marble,  with  broad,  easy  steps,  is  broken  midway 
by  a  landing  and  turns  to  R.  and  L.,  leading  to  the  second 
story,  containing  the  picture  galleries.  The  rear  wall  above 
the  landing  originally  contained  three  windows.  It  was 
found,  however,  that  the  light  thus  admitted  seriously  marred 
the  artistic  effect  of  the  atrium  and  stairway;  in  consequence 
the  windows  were  closed  by  the  insertion  of  three  bas-reliefs, 
which  in  size  and  shape  were  found  to  satisfy  the  require- 
ments. The  central  panel  is  a  copy  of  Orcagna's  Death  and 
Transition  of  the  Virgin  (from  the  Chapel  of  Or  San  Michele, 
Florence).  This  is  flanked  by  two  of  the  nine  Nymphs  of 
the  Fountain  of  the  Innocents,  by  Jean  Goujon(  1530-872),  from 
the  original  marbles  in  the  Louvre,  Paris.  To  R.  and  L.  of 
windows  respectively  are  two  paintings:  (R.)  The  Adora- 
tion of  the  Shepherds,  by  Anton  Raphael  Mengs  (1728-79), 
from  the  collection  of  Joseph  Bonaparte;  and  (L)  Mercy's 
Dream,  by  Daniel  Huntington  (1816-1906), the  theme  of  which 
is    taken    from    Bunyan's    Pilgrim    Progress.      The    paintings 


178  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

on  the  side  walls  of  stairway  are:  North  Wall  Jean  Leon 
Gerome  (1824-1904),  Caesar  Dead;  South  Wall,  Eugene  Vail 
(1857-     ),  Ready  About. 

The  stairs  admit  the  visitor  into  the  second-story  atrium, 
which  is  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  one  below,  the  floor 
space  being  broken  by  two  large  rectangular  openings  (50x30 
ft),  for  lighting  purposes.  This  atrium  is  covered  by  a  vast 
skylight,  supported  by  thirty-eight  fluted  monolith  columns, 
which,  like  those  of  the  lower  story,  are  of  Indiana  lime 
stone.  The  Corcoran  collection  of  paintings  is  contained  in 
this  atrium  and  in  the  eight  smaller  rooms  opening  directly 
from  it  (see  plan,  p.  173).  The  pictures  in  the  atrium  are 
as  follows : 

West  Wall,  north  of  staircase:  (S.  to  N.)  :  Henry  Mosler  ] 
(1841-1920),  Saying  Grace;  John  A.  Elder  (1833-95),  Por- 
trait of  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee;  Douglas  Volk  (1856-  ),  Ac- 
cused of  Witchcraft;  Carl  L.  F.  Becker  (1820-1900),  Pope 
Julius  II,  with  Raphael,  Michelangelo,  Vittoria  Colonna  and 
Bramante,  viewing  the  newly  exhumed  statue  of  the  Apollo 
Belvedere;  August  Schaeffer  (1833-  ),  Sunset  in  a  Hun- 
garian Forest;  John  A.  Elder,  Portrait  of  Gen.  T.  J.  Jackson; 
/.  G.  Brown,  (1831-1913),  The  Longshoreman's  Noon. 

North  Wall:  Rembrandt  Peale  (1778-1860),  Bernardin 
de  Saint  Pierre;  G.  P.  A.  Healy,  Hon.  J.  S.  Morrill;  John  - 
Faed  (1820-1902),  Shakespeare  and  His  Contemporaries;  Rem- 
brandt Paele  (1778-1860),  *  Washington  before  Yorktown 
(contains  portraits  of  Hamilton,  Lafayette,  Knox,  Lincoln  and 
Rochambeau ;  the  heavy  frame  of  this  picture  was  made  from 
a  walnut  tree  grown  upon  the  farm  of  Robert  Morris,  the 
financier  o<f  the  Revolution)  ;  Ferdinand  Pauzvels  (1830-98), 
Justice  to  Levin  Pyn,  representing  the  solemn  mass  ordered 
by  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  in  atonement  for  the  unjust  execu- 
tion of  Pyn,  First  Magistrate  of  Ghent;  Alice  C.  Barney, 
Bertha;    Thomas   Sully,    Portrait    of    James    Madison. 

East  Wall:  Henri  Paul  Motte,  The  Trojan  Horse;  Edu- 
ard  Hildebrandt  (1817-68),  Moonrise  in  Madeira;  Charles 
Melville  Dewey  (.1849-  ),  The  Edge  of  the  Forest;  Antonio 
Moretti,  Rome  from  the  Forum ;  Emanuel  Leutze,  Cromwell 
and  Milton ;  Max  Weyl,  Forest  in  the  Sapphire  Country, 
North  Carolina;  A.  Moretti,  St.  Peter's,  Rome;  Hugo  F.  Salm- 
som  (1843-94).  The  Fete  of  St.  John  in  Dalecarlia,  Sweden; 
G.  P.  A.  Healy,  Portrait  of  George  Peabody;  Louis  A.  G. 
Loustaunau  (1846-98),  A  Monk  Fishing;  Charles  Loring  Elliott 
(1812-68),  Portrait  of  W.  W.  Corcoran;  William  L.  Pickncll 
(1853-97),   En   Provence;    The  Same,  The    Road   to   Concar- 


THE    CORCORAN    ART    GALLERY  179 

neau;  Thomas  Sully,  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson;  The  Same. 
Ideal  Female  Head;  Emile  Van  Mar  eke  (1827-90),  The 
Pasture;  Edzvin  Lord  Weeks  (1849-1903),  Departure  for  the 
Hunt,  India;  Louis  Neubert  (1846-92),  An  Old  Castle  in 
Bavaria ;  Rembrandt  Peale,  Portrait  of  M.  Lasteyrie ;  William 
Keith,  Portrait  of  Irving  M.  Scott,  builder  of  the  Oregon; 
Albert  Bierstadt  (1830-1902),  The  Last  of  the  Buffalo;  John 
Vandcrlxn  (1776-1852),  Portrait  of  Zachary  Taylor;  Samuel 
Waldo  (1783-1861),  Portrait  of  G.  W.  Parke  Custis ;  William 
Louis  Sonntag  (1822-1900),  Classic  Italian  Landscape,  with 
Temple  of  Venus;  Gaston  Casimir  Saint-Pierre  (b.  1833), 
Nedj  ma — 'Odalisque. 

South  Wall:  Oswald  Achenbach  (1827-1905),  Festival  of 
Santa  Lucia,  Naples;  Charles  Stanley  Reinhart  (1844-1906), 
Washed  Ashore;  Gay  lord  Sangston  Truesdell  (1850-99),  Going 
to  Pasture;  Alboy  Rebouet  (1841-75),  Night. 

West  Wall  (concluded)  :  Albert  Bierstadt,  Mount  Cor- 
coran, Sierra  Nevada,  Colorado;  Thomas  P.  Rossiter  (1818- 
71),  Rebecca  at  the  Well;  Louis  Robbe  (1806-87),  Landscape 
and  Cattle;  Jean  Francois  Portaels  (1818-95),  The  Drought 
in  Egypt;  /.  Campbell  Phillips  (1873-  ),  The  First  Born; 
Seth  Eastman  (1808-75),  Lacrosse  Playing  among  the  Sioux; 
Louis  Priou   (b.   1845),  Family  of  Satyrs. 

In  the  center  of  the  atrium,  facing  the  stairs,  is  a  large 
marble  sculpture,  by  Vincenzo  Vela,  representing  *The  Last 
Days  of  Napoleon  I.  The  one-time  emperor  is  shown  seated, 
his  figure  bent  and  wasted  with  illness  and  chagrin,  his  fea- 
tures tragic  with  the  memory  of  defeat. 

Through  the  door  in  the  northeast  corner  we  reach 
Gallery  B.  Beyond,  on  the  north,  above  the  auditorium,  is 
Gallery  A,  a  semi-circular  hall,  used  for  special  exhibits. 

Gallery  B,  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Thomas  Cole 
(1801-48),  The  Return;  Harry  Chase  (1853-89),  New  York 
Harbor ;  Thomas  Cole,  The  Departure ;  George  Henry 
Boughton   (1834-1905),  The  Heir  Presumptive. 

West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  Frederick  E.  Church  (1826-1900). 
Magdalena  River,  Granada;  Frederick  Bridgman  (1847-  ), 
Procession  of  the  Sacred  Bull,  Apis;  Jervis  McEntcc  (1828- 
90),  Eastern  Sky  at  Sunset;  Eastman  Johnson  (1824-1906), 
Girl  and  Pets;  James  M.  Hart  (1828-1901),  The  Drove  at  the 
Ford;  John  Neagle.  (1799-1865),  Portrait  of:  Col.  Richard  M. 
Johnson ;  Gilbert  Stuart,  George  Washington ;  Benjamin  West 
(1738-1820),  Cupid  and  Psyche;  Joseph  Wright  (1756-93). 
Portrait  of  Benjamin  Franklin;  Gilbert  Stuart,  Portrait  of 
Chief  Justice   Shippen ;   Benjamin   Curtis  Porter    (1845-1908), 


180  RIDERS    WASHINGTON 

Lady  and  Dog;    William  Ranney    (1813-57),  Duck   Shooting; 
William  T.  Richards  (1833-1905).    On  the  Coast  of  New  Jersey. 

South  Wall:  A.  B.  Durand,  Edge  of  the  Forest;  J.  F. 
Kensett  (1818-72),  Mount  Washington;  William  S.  Mount 
(1807-68),  The  Long  Story;  John  R.  Tilton  (1828-88), 
Venetian  Fishing  Boats;  S.  R.  Gifford  (1823-80),  The  Ruins 
of  the  Parthenon. 

East  Wall :  Thomas  Doughty,  Tintern  Abbey ;  Richard 
N.  Brooke  (1847-1920),  A  Pastoral  Visit;  John  W.  Casilear 
(1811-93),  Lake  George;  Clifford  Grayson  (1859-  ),  Mid- 
Day  Dreams;  Worthington  Whittredge  (1820-1910),  Trout 
Brook  in  the  Catskills ;  James  D.  Smillie  (1833-1909),  Cliffs 
in  Normandy;  Daniel  Huntington,  Portrait  of  Joseph  Henry; 
Charles  L.  Elliott,  James  C.  McGuire;  Emanuel  Leutze  (1816- 
68),  The  Amazon  and  Her  Children;  F.  E.  Church,  ^Niagara 
Falls;  Charles  L.  Elliott,  Portrait  of  A.  B.  Durand;  The 
Same,  Portrait  of  Col.  Thomas  L.  McKenney;  /.  F.  Kensett, 
High  Bank,  Genesee  River ;  The  Same,  An  Autumn  Afternoon, 
Lake  George;  Thomas  Doughty,  Autumn  on  the  Hudson; 
Henry  Peters  Gray  (1819-77),  The  Judgment  of  Paris; 
Thomas  Doughty,  Welsh  Scenery;  G.  H.  Boughton,  Edict  of 
William  the  Testy  ('illustrating  a  passage  from  Irving's 
"Knickerbocker  History  of  New  York." 

Through  the  south  door  we  pass  into  Gallery  C: 

North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  :  Benoni  Irwin  (1840-96), 
Portrait  of  Edmund  C.  Messer ;  Charles  A.  Piatt  (1861-  ), 
Cornish  Landscape;  George  Fuller  (1822-84),  Lor ette;  William 
J.  Hays  (1830-75),  Head  of  Bull-Dog;  Charles  L.  Elliott, 
Portrait  of  William  Cullen  Bryant;  Bertha  E.  Perrie,  In 
Gloucester  Harbor;  William  M.  Paxton  (1869-  ),  The  House 
Maid;  E.  L.  Henry  (1841-1919),  The  Old  Westover  Mansion; 
Thomas  Le  Clear  (1818-82),  Portrait  of  William  Page. 

West  Wall:  Lovell  B.  Harrison  (1854-  ),  Rose  and 
Silver  Moonrise;  Charles  F.  Ulrich  (1858-1908),  Land  of 
Promise,  Castle  Garden;  H.  Bolton  Jones  (1848-  ),  Soring- 
time;  Julian  Rix  (1850-1903),  Pompton  Plains,  N.  J. :  Robert 
Wylie  (1839-77),  Fortune  Teller  of  Brittany;  William  T. 
Richards  (1833-1905),  On  the  Coast  of  New  England;  Charles 
H.  Dazris  (1856-  ),  The  Deepening  Shadows;  Thomas  A. 
Harrison  (1853-  _),  Twilight;  Frank  K.  M.  Rehn  (1818- 
1914),  In  the  Glittering  Moonlight;  George  H.  Smillie, 
Autumn  on  the  Massachusetts  Coast. 

South  Wall:  Charles  W.  Hawthorne  (1872-  ).  A  Fisher- 
man's Wife;  R.  Szvain  Gifford  (1840-1905),  October  on 
Massachusetts  Coast:  Gilbert  Stuart,  Portrait  of  Col.  Samuel 
Miles;     Thomas    Eakins     (1844-1916),     The    Pathetic     Song; 


THE  CORCORAN  ART  GALLERY      181 

Samuel  Isham   (1855-1914),   Butterflies;   Richard  N.  Brooke, 
Incoming  Tide. 

East  Wall :  Ben  Foster,  Late  Autumn  Moonrise ;  Leonard 
Ochtman  (1854-  ),  November  Morning;  George  H.  Smillie, 
Landscape;  George  de  Forest  Brush  (1855-  ),  Mother  and 
Child;  Henry  W.  Ranger,  Landscape;  R.  M.  S hurtle ff  (1838- 
1915),  The  First  Snow;  George  Inness,  Sunset  in  the  Woods; 
James  Moscr  (1854-1913),  In  the  Cornwall  Hills;  Edmund 
Clarence  Mcsser  (1842-1919),  January;  James  J.  Shannon, 
(1862-  ),  Girl  in  Brown;  George  H.  Bogcrt  (1864-  ),  Sun- 
set; William  Gedncy  Bunce  (1840-1916),  Venice,  Sunrise; 
A.  H.  Wyant  (1836-92),  Landscape. 

The  next  room  to  the  south  is  Gallery  l>  : 

North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  :  Horatio  Walker  (1858-  ), 
Ave  Maria;  Wilton  Lockivood  (1861-1914),  Peonies;  Thomas 
W.  Deiving  (1851-  ),  Lady  with  a  Mask;  William  M.  Chase, 
The  Model;  Edward  F.  Rook  (1870-  ),  Peonies;  William 
Sergeant  Kendall   (1869-     ),  Narcissa. 

West  Wall:  Robert  Reid  (1862-  ),  The  Open  Fire ; 
Charles  W.  H.  Woodbury  (1864-  ),  Monadnock;  Childe 
Hassam,  The  New  York  Window;  Robert  C.  Minor,  (1840- 
1904),  Eventide;  Robert  Spencer  (1879-  ),  The  Red  Boat; 
Gari  Melchers,  Penelope;  Max  Weyl  (1837-1914),  Lovers'  Lane; 
Childe  Hassam,  Northeast  Headlands,  New  England  Coast; 
Frank  W.  Benson,  The  Open  Window;  Paul  Dougherty,  The 
Land  and  the   Sea;  John  W.  Alexander,  A  Meadow  Flower. 

South  Wall:  Theodore  Robinson  (1852-96),  Girl  Sewing; 
Charles  Reiffel  (1862-  ),  Railway  Yards,  Winter  Evening; 
Philip  L.  Hale  (1865-  ),  Portrait,  Girl  with  Muff;  Winslow 
Homer,  The  Hudson  River — Logging;  Irving  R.  Wiles,  The 
Student ;   Helen  M.   Turner,   Girl  with   a   Lantern. 

East  Wall:  Daniel  Garber  (1880-  ),  April  Landscape; 
Frank  W.  Benson  (1862-  ),  My  Daughter;  William  M. 
Chase  (1849-1916),  An  English  Cod;  Robert  Reid  (1862-  ), 
The  Japanese  Screen;  Winslow  Homer,  (1836-1910),  A  Light 
on  the  Sea;  R.  A.  Blakelock  (1847-1919),  Colorado  Plains; 
Edward  W.  Red  field  (1868-  ),  Sleighing;  Daniel  Garber, 
South  Room,  Green  Street ;  Charles  Walter  Stetson  ( 1858- 
-1911).  A  Galley  is  Leaving;  John  E.  Folinsby,  Gray  Thaw; 
John  S.  Sargent  (1856-  ),  The  Oyster  Gatherers  of  Cancale ; 
Joseph  De  Camp  (1858-  ),  The  Seamstress;  JVillard  L. 
}Fctcalf  (1858-  ),  May  Night;  Edmund  C.  Tarbell 
(1862-  ),  Josephine  and  Mercie;  Edzvard  W.  Red  field,  The 
Delaware  River. 

Through  the  S.  door  we  reach  Gallery  E,  at  the  S.  E. 
cor.  of  the  building : 


i82  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  :  Henry  Bacon  (1839-1912), 
The  Nile,  Evening;  Frederic  Clay  Bartlett  (1873-  ),  Canton 
Street;  John  H.  Twachtman  (1853-1902),  Landscape;  Robert 
Henri  (1865-  ),  Willie  Gee;  Edward  J.  Barclay,  Portrait 
of  Samuel  H.  Kaufrman,  President  Board  of  Trustees  of 
Corcoran  Gallery,  1894-1906;  Bruce  Crane  (1857-  ),  November 
Hillsides;  Robert  M.  Sully  (1803-55),  Portrait  of  Chief  Justice 
John  Marshall;  Chauncey  F.  Ryder  (1868-     ),  Cape  Porpoise. 

West  Wall:  William  Keith  (1839-1911),  By  the  Creek, 
Sonoma ;  Charles  Walter  Stetson,  Library  Frieze,  XlVth 
Century,  Chaucer  and  Dante;  Abbott  H.  Thayer  (1849-  ), 
Study  Head  of  a  Young  Girl;  Frank  Duveneck,  Head  of  a 
Little  Girl;  William  M.  Chase,  Portrait  of  Hon.  William  A. 
Clark;  Ernest  Lawson  (1873-  ),  Boat  House,  Winter, 
Harlem  River;  Dines  C arisen,  (1901-  ),  The  Brass  Kettle; 
/.  Alden  Weir  (1852-1919),  Autumn;  Gari  M either s  (i860-  ), 
^Maternity;  Max  Weyl  (1837-1914),  Approaching  Night; 
Richard  E.  Miller  (1875-  ),  The  Boudoir;  Frederick  Carl 
Frieseke    (1874-     ),  Peace. 

East  Wall:  Charles  H.  Hayden  (1856-1901),  The  Poplars, 
Chatham,  Mass.;  Ben  Foster  (1852-  ),  Sunset,  the  Litchfield 
Hills;  John  G.  Brown  (1831-1913),  Allegro  and  Penseroso; 
Howard  Helmick  (1845-1907),  The  Emigrant's  Letter;  William 
Sartain  (1843-  ),  Street  in  Dinan,  Brittany;  Sidney  E. 
Dickinson  (1890-  ),  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  Horace  Bonham, 
Nearing  the  Issue  at  the  Cockpit;  Theodore  Robmson  (1852- 
96),  Valley  of  the  Seine   from  Giverny  Heights. 

Gallery  F  is  reached  through  the  W.  door. 

North _ Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  ;  Randall  Davey  (1887-  ),  Old 
Sea  Captain ;  Thomas  Sully,  Portrait  of  the  Artist ;  Edward 
G.  Malbone  (1777-1807),  "Portrait  of  the  Artist;  Hayley 
Lever  (1876-  ),  Dawn;  Henry  Inman  (1801-46),  Portrait  of 
Henry  Clay;  Chester  Harding  (1792-1866),  Portrait  of  John 
Randolph  of  Roanoke ;  Walter  Ufer,  Strange  Things ;  Felicie 
Waldo  Howell,  A  New  England  Street;  Charles  B.  King, 
(1785-1862),  Portrait  of  John  C.  Calhoun;  Frank  Duveneck, 
Portrait  of  Major  D.  H.  Clark;  John  F.  Carlson  (1875,-  ), 
Woods  in  Winter;  Charles  L.  Elliott  (1812-1868),  Portrait  of 
Horatio  Stone,  the  Sculptor ;  Gilbert  Stuart,  John  Randolph 
of  IRoanoke  (loaned);  Charles  Morris  Young  (1869-  ),  The 
North  Wind. 

West  Wall :  Mary  Cassatt,  La  Femme  au  Chien ;  John  N. 
Twactman  (1853-1902),  The  Waterfall;  Albert  L.  Groll 
(1868-     ),  No  Man's  Land,  Arizona. 

South  Wall:  Dwight  William  Try  on  (1849-  ),  The  End 
of  the  Day;  George  Gardiner  Symons  (1863-     ),  Where  Long 


THE  CORCORAN  ART  GALLERY      183 

Shadows  Lie;  Thomas  P.  Anshulz  (1851-1912),  A  Dutchman; 
Thomas  Sully,  Portrait  of  Mrs.  Fanny  Yates  Levy ;  John  S. 
Sargent,  Portrait  of  Gen.  Leonard  Wood;  Emil  Carlsen 
(1853-     ),  Moonlight  on  a  Calm  Sea;  Mary  Cassatt,  Little  Girl 

Embroidering;   /.   Aid  en    Weir,   Portrait   of    Miss    de   L ; 

Walter  MacEzven  (i860-  ),  Un  Ancetre ;  Walter  Elmer  Scho- 
field  (1867-  ),  Cliff  Shadows;  /.  Francis  Murphy  (1853-  ), 
October. 

East  Wall:  Carl  Rungius,  Landscape;  Robert  Lee  Mac- 
Cameron  (1866-1912),  Groupe  d'Amis. 

Continue  through  the  W.  door  to  Gallery  G,  at  S.  W. 
cor.  of  building.  This  room  is  used  for  temporary  exhibits. 
At  present  (1922)  it  contains  the  collection  of  "Flag  Paint- 
ings," by  Child e  Hassam. 

The  north  door  leads  into  Gallery  H  : 

North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  :  Jules  Breton  (1827- 1906),  Brit- 
tany  Widow;   Leon   A.  L'hermitte    (1844-     ),   La    Famille. 

West  Wall:  Jules  Dupri  (1811-89),  The  Pond  of  the 
Great  Oak;  Erskine  Nicol  (1825-1904),  Paddy's  Mark;  George 
Morland  (1763-1804),  The  Warrener ;  C.  F.  Daubigny  (1817- 
78),  A  Hamlet  on  the  Seine  near  Vernon;  Adolphc  Monticelli 
(1824-86),  Landscape;  Emile  Van  Marke  (1827-90),  Landscape 
with  Cattle;  /.  B.  C.  Corot  (1796-1875),  The  Wood  Gatherers; 
Gustave  Coarbet  (1819-78),  Landscape;  Jean  Charles  Cazin 
(1840-1901),  Moonlight  in  Holland;  Ferdinand  Heilbuth 
(1826-89),  On  the  Pincian  Hill,  Rome  (Cardinal  Questioning 
Acolytes)  ;  N.  V.  Diaz  de  la  Pena  (1808-76),  The  Approaching 
Storm;  Constant  Troy  on  (1810-65),  The  Drinking  Place; 
Blaise  Alexandre  Dcsgoffe,  Souvenirs  of  the  Sixteenth  and 
Seventeenth    Centuries. 

South  Wall:  F.  H.  Kaemmerer  (1839-92),  Beach  at 
Scheveningen ;  C.  F.  Daubigny,  Landscape ;  Cesare  Maccari 
(1840-  ),  The  Fortune  Teller;  Alphonse  M.  de  Neuville 
(1836-85),   Champagny. 

East  Wall:  Theophile  de  Bock  (1851-1904),  The  Poudon 
Commons;  Ludung  Knaus  (1829-1910),  The  Forester  at 
Home;  Thomas  Couture  (1815-79),  Female  Head;  Emile 
Breton,  Winter  Moonrise;  Josef  Israels  (1824-1911),  Interior 
of  a  Cottage;  /.  /.  Henner  (1829-1905),  Joan  of  Arc  in 
Infancy;  Martin  Rico  (1850-1008),  The  Banks  of  the  Adige ; 
Adolphc  Schreyer  (1828-99),  The  Watering  Place;  Felix  Ziem 
(1821-1911),  Constantinople  from  the  Golden  Horn. 

Return  to  the  atrium  and  enter  Gallery  I  through  first 
door  on  left.  N.  of  stairway. 

North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  :  Jules  Dupre  (1811-89),  Moon- 
light by  the  Sea;  Jean  Louis  Gericault  (1791-1824),  Study  of  a 
Torso;  Jean  Georges  Vibert  (1840-1902),  The  Schism;  Emile- 


184  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Renouf  (1845-94),  The  Helping  Hand;  Franz  Linder  (1738- 
1809),  The  Butterfly;  Johannes  H.  L.  De  Haas  (1832-80), 
Holland  Cattle;  Gaetano  Chierici  (1838-     ),  Fun  and  Fright. 

West  Wall:  Louis  Aime  Japy  (1830-1916),  Twilight; 
Ary  Scheffer  (1797-1858),  Portrait  of  Commodore  Charles 
Morris;  Oscar  Bjorck  (i860-  ),  The  Nail  Makers;  John 
Jackson  (1778-1831),  A  Portrait;  B.  Peretti,  Autumnal  Corn 
and  Grapes;  Luigi  Chialiva  (1842-1914),  A  Shower;  Hector 
Leroux  (1829-1900),  *The  Vestal  Tuccia;  Johann  Wilhelm 
Preyer  (1803-89),  Fruit;  Luigi  Chialiva,  Fine  Weather;  Louis 
Mettling  (1847-94),  Study  Head  of  a  Young  Man;  Emile 
Breton  (1831-1902),  Sunset;  Sir  Philip  A.  de  Laszlo,  *Head 
of  an  Indian  Prince;  Louis  A.  Japy,  Spring  Landscape. 

South  Wall:  Gustave  Loiseau  (1865-  ),  The  Inundation; 
Simon  Saint-Jean  (1808-60),  Fruit;  Jan  Bedys  Tom  (1813-  ), 
Cattle;  E.  L.  G.  Isabey  (1804-86),  The  Wedding  Festival; 
Samuel  F.  B.  Morse  (1791-1872),  The  Old  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives; Giovanni  Battista  Piazzetta  (1682-1754),  Two 
Heads;  Pierre  Edouard  Frere  (1819-86),  Preparing  for 
Church;  Pierre  E.  T.  Rousseau  (1812-67),  Landscape;  Luigi 
Loir,  Effect  of  Snow. 

East  Wall:  Aime  Morot  (1850-  ),  *E1  Bravo  Toro ; 
Frank  Blackwell  Mayer  (1827-99),  Leisure  and  Labor; 
Georges  C.  Jeannin,  Vase  of  Flowers ;  Richard  Bumier 
(1826-84),  Cattle  on  the  !Sea  Shore,  near  Scheveningen ; 
Ferdinandus  De  Brackeleer  (1792-1883),  The  Happy  Family; 
Jean  Louis  de  Marne  (1754-1829),  Interior;  Franz  Lenbach 
(1836-1904),  *Otto,  Fuerst  von  Bismarck;  F.  De  Braekeleer, 
The  Unhappy  Family;  Emile  Gustave  Couder,  Flower  Piece; 
Charles  Ferdinand  Venneman  (1803-75).  The  Village  Doc- 
tor; Pierre  Charles  Comte  (1823-95),  A  Scene  at  Fontaine- 
bleau:  Anatole  Vely   (1838-82),  *The  Talking  Well. 

The  Corcoran  School  of  Art,  in  the  N.  end  of  the  Art 
Gallery  Building,  but  with  entrance  on  New  York  Ave.,  is 
open  annually,  from  October  to  May,  inclusive.  It  gives  free 
instruction  in  drawing,  painting,  composition,  anatomy  and 
perspective.  The  only  charge  is  an  annual  entrance  fee  of 
$10.00  paid  in  advance. 

III.     Lafayette  Square 

Lafayette  Square,  (PI  II— C4)  facing  the  White  House 
on  the  north,  is  a  rectangular  park  of  about  seven  acres, 
bounded  on  the  S.  by  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  on  the  N.  by  H  St., 
and  on  the  E.  and  W.  by  Madison  and  Jackson  Places. 
Historically  it  is  the  most  interesting  of  the  smaller  parks, 
having  been  for  nearly  a  century  the  center  of  Washington 
social  life,  while  almost  every  house   surrounding  it  is  rich 


LAFAYETTE    SQUARE  185 

in  historical  associations.  Across  this  square  Farragut 
walked  with  his  seconds,  on  his  way  to  the  duel  which  was 
to  end  in  his  death ;  on  the  E.  side  of  the  square  Sickles 
shot  and  killed  iPhilip  Barton  Key ;  while  on  the  Tuesday 
following  Lincoln's  assassination,  when  the  body  lay  in  state 
in  the  East  Room,  and  the  public  were  admitted,  the  entire 
square  was  thronged  with  waiting  crowds,  even  at  nightfall, 
when  the  doors  were  closed. 

As  originally  planned,  Lafayette  Square  extended  all  the  way 
from  15th  to  17th  St.  The  name  is  said  to  have  been  chosen  by  Wash- 
ington. No  attempt  to  improve  or  lay  out  the  grounds  was  made  until 
after  the  War  of  1812,  the  whole  space  remaining  a  neglected  common 
destitute  of  trees,  and  used  as  a  parade  ground  for  military  muster. 
At  the  W.  corner  there  was  an  oval  race-course,  and  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  betw.  17th  and  20th  Sts.  was  the  home-stretch.  Jefferson  was 
the  first  to  interest  himself  in  improving  the  park,  at  the  same  time 
considerably  reducing  it  by  cutting  off  both  ends  on  the  lines  now 
marked  by  Madison  and  Jackson  Pis.  The  first  edifice  facing  the 
Square  was  St.  John's  Church  (p.  195),  erected  in  1816,  and  the 
first  private  residence  the   Decatur  House   (p.   192),  dating  from   1819. 

Lafayette  Square  contains  five  noteworthy  monuments. 
At  the  S.  E.  corner  is  the  Lafayette  Memorial,  erected  by 
Congress  in  memory  of  the  services  of  General  Lafayette 
and  his  compatriots  in  the  years  of  1777-83.  The  figures 
were  modeled  by  two  French  sculptors,  Alexandre  Falguiere 
and  Antonin  Mercie,  and  the  pedestal  designed  by  Paul 
Pujol.  Surmounting  the  pedestal  is  the  standing  figure  of 
Lafayette  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  while  Ibelow,  in  front,  a 
partly  draped  figure,  symbolizing  America,  is  reaching  up  her 
sword  to  him.  On  the  E.  and  W.  sides  of  the  pedestal  re- 
spectively stand  bronze  figures  of  D'Estaing  and  De  Grasse, 
of  the  French  Navy,  and  of  Rochambeau  and  Duportail  of 
the  French  Army  (note  the  distinguishing  details  of  the 
anchor  and  the  mortar). 

The  plans  by  Falguiere  and  Mercie,  chosen  out  of  seven  submitted 
in  competition,  in  their  original  form  proposed  for  the  four  subordinate 
statues  of  French  officers  the  names  of  Rochambeau,  Custine,  Lauzin 
and  Lameth.  The  Commissioners  appointed  by  Congress  and  consist- 
ing at  that  time  of  Secretary  Endicott,  Architect  Clark  and  Senator 
Everts,  were  not  satisfied  with  the  choice.  Accordingly  they  invoked 
the  aid  of  Robert  C.  Winthrop,  Bancroft  the  historian,  and  almost 
every  historical  society  in  America,  before  arriving  at  the  selection 
eventually   approved. 

At  the  JST.  E,  cor.  of  the  Square  stands  the  monument  to 
Tadeusz  Kosciuszko  (1746-1817),  the  "Hero  of  both  Hem- 
ispheres," a  full  length  statue  lin  bronze,  heroic  size,  sur- 
mounting a  lofty  pedestal  of  Vermont  granite  (height  17  ft., 
weight  115  tons),  surrounded  by  four  bronze  sculptures 
(Antonio  Popiel,  artist).  Th°  monument  fronts  to  the  N. 
On   the   pedestal    is   inscribed   the   one   word*,    "Saratoga,"   the 


186  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

scene  of  Kosciuszko's  chief  service  in  America.  Above :  in 
bronze,  the  Western  Hemisphere,  with  an  American  Eagle 
holding  the  Stars  and  Stripes.  S.  side:  "Raclawice"  (the 
scene  of  Kosciuszko's  greatest  Polish  victory,  April  4th, 
1794).  Above:  in  bronze,  the  Eastern  Hemisphere  with 
Eagle  of  Freedom  strangling  Serpent  of  Despotism. 

"The  inscription  is  the  well-known  quotation-.  "And  Freedom 
shrieked  as  Kosciuszko  fell."  The  statue  was'  "erected  by  the  Polish 
National  Alliance  of  America,  and  presented  to  the  United  States  in 
behalf    of    the    Polish-American    Citizens,    May    nth,     1910." 

E.  side :  Bronze  group.  American  soldier  cutting  the 
bonds  of  the  American  farmer,  freeing  him  from  the  foreign 
yoke.  W.  side :  Polish  soldier  wounded  and  falling,  is  pro- 
tected by  Polish  farmer  with  scythe. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  the  Square  stands  the  monument 
to  Baron  von  Steuben  (1730-94),  modeled  by  Albert  Jaegers, 
and  unveiled  Dec.  7th,  1910.  A  replica  'presented  to  the 
former  Emperor  of  Germany,  William  II,  and  to  the  German 
nation  was  unveiled  at  Potsdam  Sept.  2d,   191 1. 

On  the  W.  Side  of  the  pedestal  is  a  bronze  group  consisting  of 
a  seated  woman  admonishing  a  kneeling  lad  and  symbolizing  "Com- 
memoration." On  the  E.  side  a  helmeted  warrior  in  classic  garb  is 
instructing  a  youth,  representing  "Military  Instruction."  On  the  S. 
side:  bronze  plaque  with  medallion  portraits  of  Col.  William  Worth 
and    Maj.    Benjamin   Walker,    aides   and   friends   of    von    Steuben. 

Baron  von  Steuben  offered  his  services  to  Congress  in  1778,  and 
was  appointed  instructor  general  of  the  Continental  Army,  with  rank 
of  Major  General.  He  drilled  Washington's  defeated  army  at  Valley 
Forge,  took  active  part  in  the  siege  of  Yorktown,  and  was  a  member 
of  the  Court  Martial  which  tried  Major  Andre.  Congress  granted 
him  a  pension   of   $2400. 

S.  W.  cor. :  Monument  to  Rochambeau  given  by  France 
in  1902  (F.  Hamar,  sculptor).  Bronze  figure,  heroic  size, 
facing  S. ;  below :  female  figure  symbolizing  liberty,  holding 
sword  and  banner,  with  American  eagle  at  her  side.  N. 
side,  inscription : 

"We  have  been  contemporaries  and  fellow-laborers  in  the  cause 
of  liberty,  and  we  have  lived  togther,  as  brothers  should  do,  in 
harmonious    friendship."      Washington   to    Rochambeau,   Feb.    1st,    1784. 

Rochambeau  came  to  America  with  an  army  of  6000  French  soldiers 
to  help  Washington,  and  his  co-operation  with  the  forces,  of  Lafayette 
resulted  in  the  defeat  of  Cornwallis  at  Yorktown.  When  this  statue 
was  unveiled  by  President  Roosevelt,  in  1902,  among  those  present  were 
representatives  of  the  families   both   of  Lafayette   and   Rochambeau. 

In  the  center  of  the  Square  is  located  the  much  dis- 
cussed Equestrian  Statue  of  Andrew  Jackson,  modeled  by 
Clark  Mills  and  cast  by  him  at  Bladensburg,  where  he  set 
up  a  furnace  for  the  purpose.  It  was  the  first  successful 
large  bronze  casting  made  in  the  United  States. 

This  statue  cast  from  cannon  captured  by  Jackson  in  his  various 
battles,  was  inaugurated  Jan.  8th,  1853,  being  the  38th  anniversary  of 
Jackson's    victory   at    New    Orleans. 


LAFAYETTE    SQUARE  187 

There  are  two  bronze  replicas:  one  in  New  Orleans,  the  scene 
of  Jackson's  achievement;  the  other  in  Nashville,  Tenn.,  where  his 
ashes   repose. 

A  popular  legend,  repeated  in  practically  all  the  guide  books, 
is  to  the  effect  that  this  statue  of  a  rearing  horse  is  so  delicately  ad- 
justed that  it  stands  poised  on  hind  feet  without  any  pivot  or  anchor. 
In  point  of  fact  it  is  securely  bolted  to  the  foundation  as  a  protection 
against  the  danger  of  high  winds,  a  possible  earthquake  shock  or  other 
casualties.  But  the  statue  does  balance;  and  Mr.  Mills  used  to 
demonstrate  this  fact  with  a  miniature  replica  of  the  horse,  which 
balanced    perfectly    whether    mounted    or    unmounted. 

Almost  every  house  facing  on  Lafayette  Square  is  his- 
toric. Beginning  on  the  E.  side,  at  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and 
Madison  Place  (formerly  15 ^  St.),  adjoining  the  Riggs 
Bank  on  the  E.  and  the  Belasco  theatre  on  the  N.  is  the 
recently  erected  Treasury  Annex,  a  classic  structure  of  gray 
Indiana  limestone,  with  8  Ionic  columns  on  the  principal  or 
Lafayette  Park  facade.  It  is  connected  with  the  Treasury 
Building  by  a  tunnel  under  Pennsylvania  Ave.  The  Annex 
contains  the  Income  Tax  Unit.  The  site  which  it  occupies 
is  that  of  the  seventh  house  on  the  Square,  erected 
about  1836  by  Dr.  Thomas  S.  Gunnell,  a  dentist,  whom 
President  Van  Buren  appointed  City  Postmaster.  Later 
Postmaster  General  Samuel  D.  Hubbard  lived  here.  During 
the  Civil  War  this  house  was  temporarily  (1863)  headquar- 
ters of  the  Department  of  Washington. 

The  Belasco  Theatre,  formerly  the  Lafayette  Square 
Opera  House,  was  designed  and  supervised  by  U.  H. 
Painter,  a  civil  engineer.  A  bronze  memorial  tablet,  erected 
by  the  architect's  daughters  in  1902,  records  the  fact  that  the 
building  "was  erected  of  steel  skeleton  construction,  stone, 
terra-cotta,  mackite  and  brick,  to  prove  that  an  opera  house 
can  be  made  safe  at  all  times  from  fire  and  panic/'  The 
theatre  was   first  opened   September  30th,   1895. 

The  above  mentioned  tablet  also  preserves  in  bronze  a  basrelief 
presentment  of  the  historic  *Rodgers  House,  which  occupied  this  site 
for  the  greater  part  of  a  century.  The  land  was  once  owned  by  Henry 
Clay,  who  conveyed  it  to  Commander  John  Rodgers  in  exchange  for 
a  jackass  which  Rodgers  had  brought  from  a  foreign  port.  Here 
Rodgers  built  the  third  house  on  the  Square,  in  1831.  After  his  death 
it  became  the  home  of  Roger  B.  Taney  while  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
0833)  ;  then  of  James  K.  Paulding,  Secretary  of  the  Navy  (1838). 
After  this  it  was,  for  a  while,  a  fashionable  boarding  house,  number- 
ing among  its  guests  John  C.  Calhoun,  while  Jackson's  Secretary  of 
War,  and  Henry  Clay,  while  Secretary  of  State.  Subsequently,  it  be- 
came the  home  of  the  fashionable  and  exclusive  Washington  Club. 
Daniel  Sickles  and  Philip  Barton  Key  were  both  members;  and  it  was 
about  100  ft.  S.  of  the  club  house  door  that  Sickles  shot  and  killed 
Key,  February  27th,  1859  (p.  193).  The  house  was  modernized  and 
occupied  by  William  H.  Seward,  while  Secretary  of  the  State  under 
Lincoln;  and  here,  on  the  night  of  April  14th,  1865,  Mr.  Seward,  then 
critically    ill    as   the   result   of   a   runaway    accident,    was    attacked    and 


188  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

nearly  killed  by  Lewis  Payne,  one  of  the  Lincoln  conspirators.  The 
house  was  next  occupied  by  General  and  Mrs.  Belknap',  tnen  for  a 
time  it  was  Government  headquarters  for  the  Commissary  Department. 
Lastly   it   was   purchased   by   James   G.    Blaine,   who    died   here. 

No.  21,  adjoining  the  theatre  on  the  N.,  was  erected  in 
1828  by  Benjamin  Ogle  Tayloe,  second  son  of  Col.  John 
Tayloe  of  the  Octagon  House  (p.  209).  He  personally 
preferred  a  country  residence ;  but  after  his  marriage,  in 
1824,  to  Miss  Julia  Maria  Dickinson,  he  yielded  to  his  bride's 
desire  for  a  city  home.  The  house,  until  his  death  in  1868, 
was  one  of  the  chief  centres  of  social  life  and  hospitality  in 
Washington.  Here,  President  William  Henry  Harrison  paid 
hisl  last  visit  to  any  private  house.  Here,  Philip  Barton  Key, 
a  connection  of  the  Tayloes  by  marriage,  was  brought  to  die 
when  shot  by  Sickles.  Mr.  Tayloe's  famous  collection  of  pic- 
tures,  ornaments  and  curios  was  exhibited  for  some  years 
in  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery,  but  has  recently  been  claimed  by 
the  Tayloe  heirs  and  removed  to  Troy. 

A  later  occupant  of  the  Tayloe  house  was  Admiral  Paulding,  a 
son  of  John  Paulding,  one  of  the  captors  of  Major  Andre.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  Lolly  Hammersley,  later  Dowager  Duchess  of  Marl- 
borough. Vice-President  Garrett  C.  Hobart  lived  here;  and  during 
the  McKinley  administration  it  was  the  home  of  Senator  Marcus  A. 
Hanna,  and  was  popularly  known  as  the  "little  White  House."  The 
Tayloe  house  is  now  a  part  of  thei  Cosmos  Club  (see  below),  and  is 
used  as  a  Ladies'  Annex.  The  barn  in  the  rear  has  been  converted 
into  an   assembly  hall  for  scientific  and   literary   meeetings. 

The  Cosmos  Club  (PI.  II— D4),  on  S.  E.  cor.  of  Madi- 
son PI.  and  H  St.,  is  one  of  the  foremost  social  institutions  in 
America,  not  only  because  of  its  exclusiveness,  but  because 
of  its  many  distinguished  members.  Many  leading  authori- 
ties in  science,  art  and  literature  are  included  in  its  member- 
ship of  approximately  11,100  (resident  members  700;  non- 
resident 400). 

This  club  was  organized  November  16th,  1878,  and  according  to 
its  articles  of  incorporation:  "The  particular  objects  and  business  of 
this  association  are  the  advancement  of  its  members  in  science,  litera- 
ture and  art,  their  mutual  improvement  by  social  intercourse,  the  ac- 
quisition and  maintenance  of  a  library,  and  the  collection  and  care  of 
materials  and  appliances  relating  to  the  above  subjects."  The  club's 
by-laws  membership  is  restricted  to  "men —  (a)  Who  have  done 
meritorious  work  in  science,  literature  or  the  fine  arts;  (b)  Who,  tho 
not  occupied  in  science,  literature  or  the  fine  arts,  are  known  to  be 
cultivated  therein;  (c)  Who* are  distinguished  in  a  learned  profession 
or   in   public   service." 

The  Cosmos  Club  is  the  regular  meeting  place  of  several  important 
scientific  societies:  1.  The  Biological  Society  of  Washington,  organized 
December  3d,  1880,  "to  encourage  the  study  of  Biological  Sciences,  and 
to  hold  meetings  at  which  papers  shall  be  read  and  discussed."  It  has 
a  membership  of  over  300.  2.  The  Botanical  Society,  organized  Novem- 
ber 23d,  iqo1?  through  the  consolidation  of  the  Botanical  Seminar 
(1893),   and  the  Washington   Botanical   Society    (1898).      Its   membership 


LAFAYETTE    SQUARE  189 

is  about  150.  3.  The  Chemical  Society  of  Washington,  organized 
January  31st,  1884.  Present  membership  about  360.  4.  The  Washing- 
ton Society  of  Engineers,  organized  November  23d,  1905.  Present 
membership   upward   of  400. 

The  buildings  occupied  by  the  club  include  the  historic 
"Dolly  Madison  House,"  the  Tayloe  house,  already  described, 
and  a  modern  annex  erected  between  them  on  the  sites  of 
two  dwellings  (demolished  1908),  the  former  homes  respect- 
ively of  Col.  Robert  G.  Ingersoll  and  William  Window,,  Sec- 
retary of  the  Treasury. 

The  Dolly  Mkdison  House  is  a  structure  in  the  Colonial 
style,  dating  from  1818.  Its  builder  and  first  occupant 
was  Richard  Cutts,  brother-in-law  of  Mrs.  Madison, 
whose  name  is  perpetuated  historically  in  the  "John  Gilpin" 
parody,  published  after  Mrs.  Madison's  flight  from  the  White 
House  at  the  approach  of  the  British  forces  in  1814: 

"My   sister   Cutts   and   Cutts  and   T, 
And    Cutts'    children    three, 
Will    fill    the    coach.      So    you    must    ride 
On    horseback   after   we." 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  Mr.  Cutts  was  in  debt  to  Presi- 
dent Madison,  the  house  passed  into  the  latter's  hands  about 

1835,  and  constituted  part  of  his  estate  on  his  death  in  June, 

1836.  Mrs.  Madison  was  then  too  poor  to  occupy  it,  her 
personal  property  having  been  squandered  by  her  son,  Payne 
Todd.  In  March,  1837,  Congress  appropriated  $30,000  for 
the  purchase  of  Madison's  diary  of  the  debates  and  events 
connected  with  the  framing  of  the  Federal  Constitution. 
Mrs.  Madison  was  thus  enabled  to  return  to  the  Capital,  and 
she  resided  in  this  house  until  her  death  in  July,  1849.  Sub- 
sequent tenants  include :  Attorney  General  Crittenden,  Sena- 
tor William  C.  Preston  and  Commodore  Wilkes,  who,  by 
curious  coincidence,  found  himself,  in  1861,  obliged  to  take 
his  former  close  neighbor,  Slidell,  from  the  British 
steamship  Trent.  During  the  Civil  War  this  house  was  occu- 
pied by  Gen.  George  B.  McClellan  as  headquarters  of  the 
Army  of  the  Potomac.     Note  bronze  tablet  on  H  St.  Fagade. 

Diagonally  opposite,  on  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  H  St.  and  Ver- 
mont Ave.,  which  here  radiates  towards  the  N.  E.,  is  the  re- 
cently erected  Arlington  Building,  occupying  the  site  of  the 
famous  old  Arlington  Hotel,  demolished  in  1912,  to  make  way 
for  a  more  ambitious  hotel  structure,  an  enterprise  later  aban- 
doned. The  main  body  of  the  hotel,  erected  in  1869,  occupied 
the  northern  portion  of  the  plot,  replacing  three  historic  dwell- 
ings formerly  standing  on  the  Vermont  Ave.  side.  These  were 
(N.  to  S.)  :  1.  (cor.  of  I  St.)  the  home  of  Rez'erdy  Johnson, 
one-time    Minister    to    England    and    Attorney-General    under 


i9o  RIDE] 

Taylor ;  2.  home  of  William  D.  Marcy,  Secretary  of  State  un- 
der Pierce;  3.  home  of  Lewis  Cass,  one-time  Minister  to 
France,  Secretary  of  War  under  Jackson  and  of  State  under 
Buchanan.  The  H  St.  addition,  built  in  1890,  incorporated 
the  former  homes  of  Charles  Sumner  (on  the  H  St.  cor.) 
and  of  Senator  Pomeroy,  adjoining  it  on  the  W. 

The  Arlington  was  unrivalled  among  Washington  hotels  in  its 
list  of  celebrated  guests,  including  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  of  Brazil, 
King  Kalakaua  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis, 
President  Diaz  of  Mexico,  Henry  Irving  and  Adelina  Patti.  Li 
Hung  Chang  stayed  here  with  his  suite  of  one  hundred.  During 
the  Russian-Japanese  war  Prince  Fushimi  of  Japan  occupied  the 
entire  H  Street  annex.  Practically  all  the  Presidents  stayed  at  the 
Arlington  before  their  inauguration,  from  1870  until  McKinley's 
time.  This  hotel  was  long  the  diplomatic  headquarters  of  Latin 
America.  Mexico's  destiny  during  the  Madero  revolution  was  framed 
here.  And  it  is  said  that  the  Peace  Conference  of  American  Re- 
publics could  not  have  reached  a  pact,  except  for  what  took  place 
in   Room   31    during   1907. 

Walter  Q.  Gresham,  Secretary  of  State,  and  Henry  C.  Payne, 
Postmaster-General,   both  died  in  the   Sumner   portion   of   the  annex. 

The  Arlington  Building  is  a  'io-story  structure  of  gray 
Indiana  limestone,  designed  on  the  Corinthian  order,  and  was 
completed  in  Nov.,  1919.  It  houses  the  United  States  Veterans' 
Bureau,  created  by  Act  of  Congress,  approved  Aug.  9,  1921, 
which  assumed  all  the  powers  and  duties  formerly  pertaining 
to  the  War  Risk  Insurance  Bureau,  together  with  that  part 
of  the  functions  and  duties  of  the  Federal  Board  for  Voca- 
tional Education  conferred  by  the  Vocational  Rehabilitation 
Act  of  June  27,  1918.  There  is  nothing  within  this  building 
to  interest  sightseers. 

Adjoining  the  Arlington  Building  on  the  W.  is  a  large 
square  double  mansion,  the  eighth  house  erected  on  the 
Square,  often  called  the  *Ashburton  House.  It  was  i 
built  by  Matthew  St.  Clair  Clarke,  Clerk  of  the  House 
of  Representatives  during  1822-34.  Clarke  lost  a  fortune  of 
$200,000  in  speculation,  and  consequently  the  pretentious 
$5000  marble  portico  which  he  had  ordered  for  his  house 
never  left  the  marble  yard  in  Baltimore.  Later  it  was  the 
home  of  Joseph  Gales,  editor  of  the  National  Intelligencer. 
Lord  Ashburton  resided  here  when  in  1842  he  was  sent  by 
Sir  Robert  Peel  to  settle  the  "Northeastern  Boundary"  ques- 
tion. It  was  the  home  of  John  Nelson,  Attorney-General 
under  Tyler  in  1843.  Later  it  became  the  British  Legation 
during  the  regime  of  Sir  Henry  Lytton  Bulwer  (1849-52), 
who  brought  with  him  as  escretary  his  nephew,  Robert  Bul- 
wer, known  in  literature  as  "Owen  Meredith."  The  tradi- 
tion is  that  the  latter's  most  widly  read  poem.  Lucile,  was 
written  or  at  least  begun  in  this  house.  Later  tenants  were: 
Attorney-General  Nelson   and  Mrs.   Margaret  Freeman. 


LAFAYETTE    SQUARE  191 

Adjoining  on  the  west,  N.  E.  cot.  of  16th  St.,  is  the  his- 
toric St.  John's  Church  (sec  Sixteenth  Street  Section, 
p.  195)  ;  and  opposite,  on  the  N.  W.  cor.,  is  the  residence  of 
the  late  John  Hay  (p.  199),  now  occupied  by  his  son-in-law, 
James  W.  Wadsworth,  Jr.,  Senator  from  New  York. 

No.  1605  H  St.,  west  of  the  Hay  House,  is  the  residence 
built  about  1885  for  Henry  Adams,  the  historian,  one  of  four 
brothers,  grandsons  of  John  Quincy  Adams.  It  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Brazilian  Embassy. 

Two  famous  old  dwellings,  the  Stockton  House  and  Cor- 
coran House,  which  formerly  occupied  the  remainder  of  the 
block  westward  to  Connecticut  Ave.,  were  demolished  in  the 
spring  of  1922,  to  make  way  for  a  National  Headquarters  that 
is  being  erected  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  the  United 
Staites,  a  body  comprising  upward  of  1200  separate  business 
organizations.  The  designs  for  the  new  building  have  been 
prepared  by  Cass  Gilbert,  and  the  estimated  cost  is  $-2,750,000. 

The  Stockton  House  (No.  1607),  a  large  cream-colored  brick  edi- 
fice, was  the  ninth  dwelling  built  upon  the  Square,  and  was  erected  and 
first  occupied  by  Commodore  Richard  Stockton.  It  was1  later  purchased 
by  Thomasi  Ritchie,  President  Polk's  anti-Blair  editor,  described  as 
"the  most  genteel  old  fogey  that  ever  wore  nankeen  trousers  and  broad- 
brimmed  straw  hat."  Its  next  tenant  was  Senator  John  Slidell  from 
Louisiana,  who  later  gained  notoriety  in  the  Mason-SHdell  episode. 
It  was  next  occupied  by  Gideon  Welles,  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
throughout  the  Lincoln  and  Johnson  administrations;  by  Daniel  Lamont, 
Secretary  of  War*  under  Cleveland,  and  by  Russell  A.  Alger,  Secretary 
of  War  under  Harrison.  Its  last  oocupants  were  the  American 
Association  of    University    Women,   now   at   1634  I   St. 

The  Corcoran  House  which  formerly  adjoined  the  Stock- 
ton House  on  the  west  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  H  St.  and 
Connecticut  Ave.,  was  built  by  the  father  of  one-time  Gov- 
ernor Thomas  Swann  of  Maryland.  Its  early  tenants  were: 
1.  the  Russian  Minister,  Krudener ;  2.  Aaron  Vale,  Van 
Buren's  Assistant  Secretary  of  State;  3.  Daniel  Webster, 
Secretary  of   State  under  Harrison  and  Tyler   (1841-43). 

The  most  important  transaction  during  Webster's  tenure  of  office 
was  the  Ashburton  Treaty,  which  defined  the  much  disputed  north- 
western boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Canada.  Lord  Ash- 
burton was  frequently  entertained  by  Webster  who,  as  part  of  his 
diplomacy,  is  said  to  have  "planned  a  series  of  dinners  that1  would  have 
astonished  Lucullus — Maine  salmon,  Massachusetts  cod,  Connecticut 
shad,  Maryland  terrapin  and  Delaware!  canvasbacks,  served  in  a  fashion 
that  made  the  noble  Peer's  mouth  water,  and  his  cilaims  on  the  shores 
of   Lake   Champlain   to   relax." 

Webster,  finding  himself,  after  his  resignation,  unable  to  keep  up 
so  large  an  establishment,  sold  it  to  William  W.  Corcoran,  the  millionaire 
banker  and  founder  of  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery  (p.  171)  and  the 
Louise  Home  Cp.  228).  After  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  Mr. 
Corcoran's  unconcealed  sympathies  for  the  South  incurred  the  dis- 
pleasure of  the  Government,  and  he  found  it  wise  to  exile  himself 
temporarily  in  Europe.  The  Federal  authorities  were  on  the  point  of 
confiscating  his   home,   when  they   found  themselves   blocked   by   the   fact 


192  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


de 


that  he  had  leased  the  property  to  the  French  Minister,  the  Marquis 
Montholon.  After  Mr.  Corcoran's  death,  in  1888,  the  house  was 
occupied  successively  by  Senator  Calvin  S.  Brice,  Senator  Chauncey 
Depew,  and  William  Corcoran  Eustis,  who  was  Chairman  of  the 
Inaugural    Committee   at   President   Wilson's    first    Inauguration. 

No.  1617  H  St.,  a  large  square  red  brick  house  at-  the 
N.  W.  cor.  of  Connecticut  Ave.,  was  the  residence  of  Rear 
Admiral  William  B.  Shubrick,  who  served  with  distinction 
on  board  the  Constitution,  and  was  for  many  years,  until 
1874,  head  of  the  Light  House  Board. 

No.  1 62 1  was  the  home  of  the  late  Judge  George  Bancroft 
Davis,  former  Secretary  of  State  and  Minister  to  Germany. 

No.  1623,  a  weather-beaten  structure,  of  which  the  lower 
story  has  lately  been  remodeled  into  shops,  was  for  many  years, 
until  his  death,  the  home  of  George  Bancroft,  the  historian.  It 
was  here  that  he  completed  his  History  of  the  United  States. 

The  *Decatur  House,  (PI.  II — C4)  the  first  private  residence 
on  Lafayette  Square,  stands  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  H.  St.  and 
Jackson  Place  (formerly  i6y2  St.),  facing  the  Von  Steuben 
Monument.  It  was  designed  by  Latrobe  and  built  in  1819  for 
Commodore  Stephen  Decatur,  the  hero  of  the  war  with 
Tripoli.  For  a  single  season  this  house  was  a  brilliant  social 
centre,  presided  over  by  the  Commodore's  beautiful  and 
accomplished  wife,  who  had  once  been  sought  in  marriage 
by  Jerome  Bonaparte.  On  March  22d,  1820,  Decatur  died 
here,  from  wounds  received  in  an  encounter  with  Captain 
(later  Commodore)  James  Barron,  on  the  famous  Bladens- 
burg  Duelling-ground   (p,  414). 

The  ill-feeling  between  the  two  officers  dated  back  to  1808,  when 
Decatur  was  a  member  of  the  court-martial  which  suspended  Barron 
for  five  years  from  rank  and  pay,  for  his  surrender  of  the  Chesa- 
peake  to  the  Leopard.  The  immediate  cause  of  the  duel,  however, 
was  Decatur's  severe  criticism  of  Barron  for  not  returning  from 
abroad  to  do  his  part  in  the  war  of  181 2.  Decatur,  mortally  wounded, 
was  carried  from  the  field  and  died  in  a  few  hours.  The  funeral, 
three  days  later,  was  attended  by  the  President  and  his  Cabinet, 
the  Supreme  Court  Judges  and  almost  the  whole  Congress. 

The  house  was  leased  by  the  widow  (1823)  to  the  Rus- 
sia^ Minister,  Baron  de  Tuyll.  Later  it  was  occupied  suc- 
cessively by  three  Secretaries  of  State:  Henry  Clay  (1825- 
29);  Martin  Van  Buren  (1829-31),  resigning  from  Jack- 
son's Cabinet  to  become  Minister  to  England;  and  Edward 
Livingston  (1831-33),  brother  of  Chancellor  Livingston,  who 
administered  the  oath  of  office  to  Washington. 

_  It  was  during  Van  Buren's  occupancy  that  the  second-story 
wmdow  on  the  South  side  was  cut  through,  in  order  that  the  Secre- 
tary  could   watch   for   signals   from  the  White   House. 

Later  occupants  include  the  British  Minister,  Sir  Charles  Vaughan; 
the  French  Minister,  Baron  Hyde  de  Neuville,  whose  vivacious  wife  was 


LAFAYETTE    SQUARE  193 

remembered  for  the  amusing  error  of  her  habitual  greeting,  "I  am 
charming  to  see  you";  John  Gadsby,  host  of  the  National  Hotel;  Joseph 
Gales,  who  with  Seat  on  owned  the  National  Intelligencer ;  Howell  Cobb, 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury  (1857-8,0);  the  two  brothers,  John  A.  and 
James  C.  King  of  New  York,  father  and  uncle  respectively  of  Mrs. 
Bancroft-Davis;  and  Judah  P.  Benjamin,  Senator  from  Louisiana,  and 
subsequently  Secretary  of  Sitate  under  the  Confederacy.  During  the 
Civil  War  this  house  was  rented  by  the  Government  and  used  as 
offices.  Subsequently  it  was  acquired  by  General  Edward  'Fitzgerald 
Beale,  grandson  of  Commodore  Truxton,  under  whom  Decatur,  firs,t 
owner  of  the  house,  once  served  as  midshipman.  Here  General  Grant, 
after  his  retirement  from  the  Presidency,  stayed  many  weeks  as  guest 
of  General  Beale. 

No.  22  Jackson  Place,  home  of  William  L.  Marcy  while 
Secretary  of  War  under  Polk;  later  of  Representative  New- 
berry (Mich.)  ;  James  G.  Blaine,  Sr.,  and  Representative 
William  L.  Scott.  It  was  occupied  by  President  Roosevelt 
in  1902  during  the  remodeling  of  the  White  House,  and 
hence  was  popularly  known  as  the  "Temporary  White 
House."  It  is  now  the  home  of  the  Women's  City  Club  (1600 
members). 

No.  20,  former  home  of  Charles  C.  Glover,  a  banker.  No.  18, 
former  home  of  William  J.  Murtagh  who,  in  i860,  founded  the  National 
Republican,  which  staunchly  supported  the  candidacy  of  Lincoln;  later 
home  of  General  Frank  Steele.  No.  16  (on  N.  side  of  Alley),  former 
home  of  Major-General  J.   G.  Parke. 

No.  14,  the  Stockton-Sickles  House,  was  the  second 
dwelling  erected  on  the  Square.  It  was  originally  built  prior  to 
1820,  by  Dr.  Ezvell,  a  Naval  Surgeon,  and  was  probably  the 
birth  place  of  the  rebel  General  Ewell ;  subsequently  it  was 
occupied  by  three  Secretaries  of  the  Navy:  1.  Smith  Thomp- 
son (until  1823)  ;  2.  Samuel  L.  Southard  (1823-31)  ;  3. 
Levi  Woodbury  (1831-34).  Other  tenants  were:  1.  Senator 
William  C.  Rives  of  Virginia,  grandfather  of  Amelie  Rives 
Chanler,  the  novelist ;  2.  Dr.  Harris  of  the  Navy.  It  was 
purchased  by  Stockton,  a  Purser  in  the  Navy,  and  on  his 
death  by  Daniel  E.  Sickles. 

From  the  upper  windows  of  this  house  Mr.  Sickles'  misguided 
young  wife  used  to  exchange  signals'  with  her  lover,  Philip  Barton 
Key,  at  his  club-house  across  the  Park  (p.  187).  The  gossip  in  this 
club  presently  reached  the  husband's  ears;  the  wife's  confession  and 
the   murder   of   Key   promptly    followed. 

Subsequently  Vice-President  Schuyler  Colfax  resided  here  for  many 
years,  from  the  time  he  was  chosen  Speaker  of  the  House!  in   1863. 

No.  12,  former  home  of  Mrs.  James  Blair,  daughter  of 
General  Jessup.  No.  10,  former  home  of  Senator  Arthur  P. 
Gorman.  No.  8,  residence  of  Admiral  Alden;  then  for  many 
years  the  home  of  Major  Henry  R.  Rathbone  and  his  young 
wife  (daughter  of  Senator  Ira  Harris),  both  of  whom  were 
in  the  box  with  the  Presidential  party  on  the  night  of  Lin- 
coln's   assassination.      It    was    Rathbone    who    grappled    with 


194  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Booth,  and  received  a  thrust  from  the  latter's  dagger.  Other 
tenants  have  been  General  N.  L.  Anderson  and  Senator 
Dolph. 

No.  6,  residence  of:  i.  Mrs.  Green,  daughter  of 
Admiral  Dahlgren ;  2.  Col.  William  H.  Philip.  No.  4,  for- 
mer residence  of  John  McLean,  editor  of  the  Cincinnati 
Enquirer.  No.  2,  former  residence  of  Peter  Parker,  one- 
time Minister  to  China.  From  1906  until  1910  it  was  the 
temporary  home  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Republics. 

Directly  W.  of  the  above  mentioned  house,  on  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.,  are  two  fine  old  mansions:  the  first,  No.  165 1, 
a  four-story,  yellow  sandstone  building,  is  the  Blair  House, 
built  in  1810  by  Surgeon-General  Joseph  Lovell.  From  its 
windows  were  witnessed  the  burning  of  the  White  House 
by  the  British,  and  the  flight  of  Dolly  Madison.  After  Dr. 
Lovell's  death  the  house  was  bought  by  Francis  P.  Blair, 
editor  of  the  Globe,  the  official  organ  of  the  Jackson  admin- 
istration, and  became  a  favorite  rendezvous  of  Senator  Ben- 
ton,  Van   Buren,   Levi   Woodbury,    Silas   Wright,   etc. 

The  Blair  House  was  leased  to  George  Bancroft,  white 
Acting  Secretary  of  War,  and  it  was  while  living  here  that 
Bancroft  gave  orders  for  General  Zachary  Taylor  to  cross 
the  Rio  Grande  and  invade  Mexico.  Subsequent  tenants 
were:  John  Y.  Mason  of  Virginia,  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
under  Tyler;  and  next  Senator  Thomas  Ewing  of  Ohio. 

Senator  Ewing  had,  in  1829,  adopted  William  T.  Sherman,  and 
secured  him  a  cadetship  at  West  Point.  The  Blair  House,  during 
Ewing's  tenacy,  was  the  scene  (1850)  of  the  marriage  of  Sherman  and 
Miss  Ellen  Ewing.  The  ceremony  was  attended  by  President  Fillmore 
and  his  Cabinet,  Clay,  Webster  and  other  notables.  Blair's  son, 
Montgomery  Blair,  Postmaster  General  under  Lincoln,  inherited  the 
house   and   occupied   it  many   years. 

The  second  historic  house  is  No.  1653,  the  Lee  Mansion,  a 
three-story  brick  dwelling  with  mansard  roof,  residence  of 
the  late  Rear  Admiral  Lee.  Before  the  Civil  War,  General 
Robert  E.  Lee  was  a  frequent  visitor  at  both  the  Blair  and 
Lee  houses,  and  it  is  said  that  in  one  of  them  he  received 
the  offer  of  the  command  of  the  United  States  Army. 
Andrew  Johnson  resided  here  while  Vice-President.  The 
building  is  at  present  a  Department  of  State  Annex,  occupied 
by  the  Office  of  the  Foreign  Trade  Advisers. 

Beyond  the  Lee  Mansion,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  and  17th  St.,  stands  the  original  Corcoran  Art 
Gallery,  a  red  brick  structure  on  the  French  Renaissance 
order,  with  brownstone  trim  (James  Remvick,  arch.).  The 
eleven  exterior  niches  encircling  the  building  at  the  second 
story   level,   were   formerly   occupied   by   statues  of   sculptors 


SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PINEY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  195 

and  artists  executed  by  M.  Esekiel.  The  building  was  com- 
pleted in  1859,  but  not  opened  to  the  public  as  an  Art  Gallery 
until  1873,  having  been  taken  over  during  the  Civil  War  for 
the  Quartermaster  General's  Department.  Note  the  initials 
"W.  W.  C."  three  times  repeated,  on  the  main  facade  and  in 
the  pediment  a  medallion  portrait  in  bronze  of  William  W. 
Corcoran.     The  building  is  now  occupied  ;by  the  

Court  of  Claims  of  the  United  States.  This  Court  was 
established  by  Act  of  Congress  Feb.  24,  1855,  and  has  genera' 
jurisdiction  of  all  claims  founded  upon  the  Constitution  of 
the  United  States  or  any  law  of  Congress  (except  for  pen- 
sions), or  upon  any  contract  expressed  or  implied  with  the 
United*  States  Government,  or  for  damages  where  the  plaintiff 
would  be  entitled  to  redress  in  a  Court  o>f  law  if  the  United 
States  were  suable.  By  recent  enactments  the  Court  of  Claims 
has  jurisdiction  over  certain  specified  claims  arising  from  the 
late  World  War,  and  it  is  estimated  that  such  claims  will 
ultimately  approximate  $2,500,000,000.  Famous  claims  adjudi- 
cated in  this  Court  include  such  important  litigation  as  that  of 
the  French  Spoilations  Claims  and  the  claims  arising  out  of  the 
Civil  War  and  the  War  with  Spain. 

Open  to  the  public  from  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  The  Court 
room  contains  many  portraits  of  famous  American  jurists. 
The  benches  still  used  are  the  same  that  were  formerly  in  the 
original  Hall  of  Representatives,  and  were  once  occupied  by 
such  statesmen  as  Daniel  Webster,  Henry  Clay,  John  Randolph 
and  John  C.  Calhoun. 

IV.     Sixteenth   Street   to   Piney   Branch   Bridge 

^Sixteenth  Street,  formerly  called  "The  Avenue  of  the 
Presidents,"  runs  northward  from  Lafayette  Square  and  in- 
cluding its  recent  extension  over  Meridian  Hill  continues  in 
a  straight  line  to  the  District  boundary  about  6*4  miles.  It  is 
still  one  of  the  principal  residential  streets  and  contains  many 
foreign  legations,  leading  churches  and  other  semi-public 
buildings. 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  H  and  16th  Sts.  stands  the  quaint, 
stucco-walled  structure  of  *St.  John's  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church  (PI.  II — C4),  the  second  oldest  church  of  that  denom- 
ination within  the  former  city  limits  of  Washington.  It  dates 
from  1818,  and  has  many  historical  associations,  its  attendants 
including  not  only  the  early  Presidents,  but  a  long  line  of  cabinet 
ministers,  members  of  Congress,  army  and  navy  officers  and 
foreign  diplomats.  A  special  pew  (one  of  the  original  large 
box  pews,  removed  in  1842)  was  set  apart  "for  the  use  of 
the    family    of    the    President    for    the    time    be:ng,    and    not 


196  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

"chargeable  with  any  rent."  The  Presidents  who,  during  their 
term  of  office,  worshipped  here  more  or  less  regularly  were: 
Madison,  Monroe,  John  Quincy  Adams  (usually  the  afternoon 
service,  attending  in  the  morning  the  Unitarian  Church,  which 
he  had  helped  to  found),  Jackson,  Van  Buren,  Harrison, 
Tyler,  Taylor  and  Fillmore.  After  this  no  other  President 
became  connected  with  St.  John's  until  President  Arthur,  who 
presented  the  church  with  a  memorial  window  to  his  wife, 
whom  he  had  lost  the  previous  year  (see  below).  Among 
other  distinguished  attendants  may  be  mentioned :  Vice-Presi- 
dents Calhoun,  Dallas  and  Morton;  Chief-Justices  Chase  and 
Fuller;  Secretaries  of  State  Lewis  Cass,  William  H.  Seward, 
and  Hamilton  Fish,  and  several  foreign  ministers,  including  Lord 
Ashburton,  Sir  Henry  Lytton-Bulwer,  and  Lord  Pauncefote. 

History:  The  cornerstone  of  St.  John's  was  laid  Sept. 
14,  1815,  by  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Masons  of  the  District.  The 
edifice,  designed  by  Benjamin  H.  Latrobe,  one  of  the  archi- 
tects of  the  Capitol  (ip.  52),  was  completed  early  in  1816,  the 
trustees  were  appointed  on  April  14  of  that  year,  and  the  first 
vestrymen  chosen  on  July  16,  nearly  all  of  them  prominent 
figures  in  the  local  history  of  the  city.  They  included : 
Thomas  H.  Gilliss,  John  Tayloe,  James  Thompson,  John 
Graham,  Roger  C.  Weightman,  Peter  Hagner,  John  H.  Van 
Ness,  and  James  Blake. 

The  church,  as  first  erected,  was  a  simple  Greek  cross;  at 
the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transepts  stood  massive 
pillars,  from  which  sprang  the  cupola  and  lantern,  while  a 
graceful  circular  gallery  subtended  the  north,  west  and  south 
transepts.  Four  years  later,  the  need  of  more  space  compelled 
an  enlargement  to  Latin  Cross,  and  the  west  transept  ex- 
tended almost  to  the  building  line  on  16th  St.  Further  altera- 
tions were  made  in  1842;  and  in  the  early  eighties  extensive 
improvements  were  undertaken,  according  to  designs  by 
James  Renwick,  including  the  enlargement  of  the  chapel,  the 
addition  of  a  chantry  and  the  instalment  of  27  stained-glass 
windows.  The  seating  capacity  was  increased  to  780.  In  1919 
the  church  underwent  a  careful  restoration  through  the  gener- 
osity of  the  late  Mrs.  John  Barton  Payne  (1857-1919),  as  a 
memorial  to  her  parents  (see  tablet  at  W.  end,  S.  of  entrance 
door). 

The  above-mentioned  series  of  *Memorial  Window's  con- 
stitute the  church's  chief  ornamental  feature,  and  were  made 
at  Chartres,,  France,  at  the  famous  studios  of  Mme.  Lor'm, 
Veuve.  The  subjects  of  these  windows  are  as  follows,  be- 
ginning at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  the  nave: 


SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PINEY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  197 

Lower  Series  (S.  wall  of  Nave)  :  1.  Leonard  Gift  Win- 
dow ;  Upper  Medallion :  The  Entry  into  Jerusalem,  St.  John 
xii,  12-15;  Lower  Medallion:  Christ  Walking  on  the  Sea,  Si. 
John,  vi,  16-21 ;  2.  Randall  Memorial  Window ;  Upper  Me- 
dallion:  The  Baptism  of  Christ,  St.  Matthew  iii,  13-17; 
Lower  Medallion :  Christ  with  Mary  and  Martha,  St.  Luke  x, 
38-42;  (S.  Transept):  3.  Carroll  Memorial  Window;  Upper 
Meda'llion:  The  Ascension,  St.  Luke  xxiv,  50-51;  Lower  Me- 
dallion. The  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  St.  Luke  ii,  15-20; 
4.  Memorial  to  Ellen  Lewis  Herndon  Arthur  (1837-80),  Wife 
of  Chester  A.  Arthur  (gift  of  the  President)  ;  Upper  Me- 
dallion:  The  Women  at  the  Tomb,  St.  Mark  xvi,  1-6;  Lower 
Medallion :  The  Angels  of  the  Resurrection,  St.  John  xv, 
11-12;  (Chantry):  5.  Memorial  to  Rear-Admiral  Joseph 
Smith,  U.  S.  N.  (1790-1877)  ;  Upper  Medallion:  St.  Peter 
Attempting  to  Walk  on  the  Water,  St.  Matthew  xiv,  25-32; 
Lower  Medallion :  The  Multitude  before  the  Throne,  Revela- 
tions vii,  9,  10;  6.  Memorial  to  Charles  Henry  Crane,  U.  S.  A. 
(1825-83)  ;  Upper  Medallion:  The  Good  Samaritan,  St.  Luke, 
x»  30-36;  Lower  Medallion:  The  Harpists,  Revelations  xiv, 
1-2;  7.  Memorial  to  Col.  John  J.  Abert,  U.  S.  A.  (1788-1863)  ; 
Upper  Medallion:  The  Feast  of  the  Passover,  Jesus  and  His 
Disciples,  St.  Luke  xxii,  7-14;  Lower  Medallion:  The  Annun- 
ciation to  the  Shepherds,  St.  Luke  xi,  8-14;  (Above  Altar)  : 
8.  Three-paneled  Window,  the  central  panel  being  the  Steele 
Memorial ;  The  Last  Supper ;  R.  and  L.  panels  are,  respec- 
tively, the  Lockwood  and  Wilkes  Memorials  (Rear-Admiral 
Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.),  consisting  of  ornamental  glass  with  half 
figures  of  angels;  (N.  Transept):  9.  The  Blair  Memorial: 
St.  John's  Window,  the  Titular  window  of  the  church ;  Upper 
Medallion :  The  Galling  of  St.  John,  St.  Matthew  iv,  21-22 ; 
Lower  Medallion :  St.  John's  Mission,  St.  John  xxi,  20-23 ; 
10.'  Memorial  to  Col.  Joseph  C.  Audenried,  U.  S.  A.  (1837- 
80)  ;  Upper  Medallion :  The  Marriage  of  Cana,  St.  John  ii, 
1-11;  Lower  Medallion:  The  Good  Centurian,  St.  Matthew 
viii,  5-13;  (Nave,  N.  side):  11.  Memorial  to  Peter  Hagner 
(1772-1850),  one  of  the  founders  of  the  church;  Upper  Me- 
dallion :  St.  John  with  his  Emblems ;  Lower  Medallion  :  The 
Angels  before  the  Throne,  Revelations  v,  11-12;  12.  King 
Gift  Window ;  Upper  Medallion :  St.  John  at  Island  of  Pat- 
mos,  Revelations  v,  6;  Lower  Medallion:  The  Crucifixion, 
St.  John  xix,  25-27. 

Gallery  Series:  (Nave,  S.  side):  13.  Memorial  to  Lieut.- 
Gen.  Winfield  Scott  (gift  of  Hamilton  Fish)  ;  Upper  Medallion  : 
Pool  of  Bethesda,  St.  John  v,  2-9 ;  Lower  Medallion :  The 
young    Christ   among   the    Doctors,    St.    Luke,   ii,   41-51  ;    14. 


i98  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Memorial  to  Maj.-Gen.  Buchanan,  U.  S.  A.;  Ornamental 
glass  with  figure  of  Angel;  (S.  Transept);  15.  Memorial 
to  Col.  William  Turnbull,  U.  S.  A.,  and  his  wife ;  Ornamental 
glass  with  figure  of  Angel;  16.  Gift  of  John  Chandler  Ban- 
croft Davis;  The  Healing  of  the  Lame  Man  at  the  Beautiful 
Garden  of  the  Temple,  Acts  iii,  1-9;  17.  Churr  Gift  Window; 
Copy  of  Raphael's  "Madonna  della  Sedia,"  in  the  Pitti  Palace, 
Florence:  (Apse,  S.  side);  18.  Memorial  to  Brig.-Gen.  Amos 
B.  Eaton  (1806-77);  Lunette:  The  Transfiguration,  St.  Mark 
ix,  2-8 ;  19.  King  Gift '  Window ;  Lunette :  The  Garden  of 
Gethsemane,  St.  Mark  xiv,  32-42;  (N.  wall)  ;  20.  Memorial  to 
Lieut-Gen.  Ramsey,  U.  S.  A.;  Ornamental  glass:  (N.  Tran- 
sept) ;  21.  Memorial  to  Harrison,  Tyler  and  Taylor  (Gift  of 
the  Vestry)  ;  Flight  into  Egypt,  St.  Matthew  ii,  13-15 ;  22. 
Memorial  to  "The  Rt.  Rev.  William  Pinckney,  D.D.  (1810-83),  \ 
Bishop  of  this  Diocese  (Maryland),  1879-83)";  Christ  in  the 
Palace  of  the  High  Priest;  St.  John  xviii,  15-18;  23.  Mem- 
orial to  Madison,  Monroe  and  Van  Buren  (Gift  of 
Vestry)  ;  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  St.  Maithew 
ii,  1,  2  and  11;  (Nave,  N.  wall);  24.  Markoe  Memorial; 
Copy  of  Raphael's  "Belle  Jardiniere''  (Holy  Family),  in  the 
Louvre,  Paris;  25.  Memorial  to  William  Henry  Seward; 
Upper  Medallion:  The  Sower,  St.  Matthew  xiii,  3-9;  Lower 
Medallion :  The  Presentation  of  the  Infant  Christ  in  the 
Temple,  St.  Luke  ii,  22-39. 

Mr.  Bancroft  Davis,  a  member  of  the  Committee  on  Windows, 
when  visiting  the  Lorin  works,  ordered  a  complete  set  of  reduced 
copies  of  the  windows,  hand-painted  in  water-color;  the  descriptive  text 
was  set  up  in  London,  and  two  copies  only  were  printed,  one  of  which 
was  bound  with  the  paintings.  This  unique  volume,  the  sole  existing 
copy,  may  now  be  seen  in  the  Print  Department  of  the  Congressional 
Library. 

The  church  contains  two  marble  memorial  tablets:  1. 
(on  E.  wall  of  N.  transept)  to  Rev.  William  Hawley  (1715- 
1845),  "Rector  of  this  church  for  28  years."  His  body  is 
interred  beneath  the  chancel;  2.  Rev.  Smith  Pyne,  D.  D. 
(1803-75),  Rector,  1845-64. 

Notable  Events:  St.  John's  has  been  the  scene  of  several  weddings 
of  international  interest,  including  the  wedding  of  Mary  Leiter  to 
Lord  Curzon  (then  the  Hon.  George  Curzon,  secretary  of  the  British 
Legation) ;  of  the  Hon.  Lilian  Pauncef  ote  to  her  cousin,  the  Hon. 
Robert  Bromley;  and  of  Mary  Endicott,  daughter  of  William  C.  Endi- 
cott,  Secretary  of  War  under  Cleveland,  to  Joseph  Chamberlain,  later 
Premier  of  England.  Here  also  took  place  the  funerals  of  Dolly  Madi- 
son, of  ex-Secretary  John  Sherman,  and  of  Lord  Herschel,  ex-Lord 
Chancellor  of  England. 

One    of    the    most    highly    prized    possessions    of     St.    John's    is    a  . 

$10,000  Communion  chalice,  of  solid  gold  encrusted  with  jewels, 
made  from  the  rings,  brooches  and  other  jewelry  given  by  Judge 
Bancroft  Davis  to  his  wife  during  his  life,  and  afterwards  willed  by 
the  late   Mrs.   Davis  to   the  church   for   this  purpose. 


SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PINEY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  199 

The  chalice  is  ten  inches  high,  and  studded  with  sixty-one  dia- 
monds, six  rubies  and  a  .sapphire.  On  the  facie  of  the  cup  is  a  diamond 
cross,  the  central  stone  of  which  is  from  Mrs.  Davis's  engagement 
ring.  This  chalice  is  used  only  on  especially  solemn  occasions,  such 
as  Easter  Sunday. 

Opposite,  on  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  H  and  16th  Sts.,  is  the 
former  residence  (erected  in  1885)  of  the  late  John  Hay. 
Secretary  of  State  under  McKinley  and  Roosevelt,  and 
author  of  Little  Breeches,  The  Bread  Winners,  and  (in 
collaboration  with  Mr.  Nicolay)  an  authoritative  Life  of 
Lincoln.  At  S.  E.  cor.  of  I  St.  stands  the  Hotel  Lafayette 
(p.  5).  The  house  diagonally  opposite,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  I  St., 
was  once  the  residence  of  Associate  Justice  Horace  Gray. 

On  this  corner  in  1846  lived  Commodore  Morris,  one  of  the  heroes 
of  the  war  with  Tripoli,  and  Commander  of  the  Brandywine,  which  in 
1825  bore  Lafayette  back  to  France.  Here  William  W.  Corcoran 
courted  the  Commodore's  daughter,  Louise,  who,  because  her  father 
objected  to  a  son-in-law  "outside  the  service,"  consented  to  an  elope- 
ment. The  Commodore,  discovering  her  in  the  act  of  climbing  through 
the  side  window,  very  sensibly  conducted  the  young  couple  into  the 
house,    sent    for    a    minister    and    held    a    midnight   wedding. 

No.  903  was  formerly  (1890)  occupied  by  the  Italian 
Legation.  No.  916  is  the  Hotel  Gordon  (p.  5).  No.  930, 
at  S.  W.  cor.  of  K  St.,  is  the  former  home  of  Major  George 
M.  Wheeler,  U.  S.  A.,  who  conducted  the  surveys  west  of 
the  100th  meridian.  Opposite,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  K  St.,  is  the 
home  of  the  widow  of  General  Anderson,  hero  of  Fort 
Sumpter ;  it  is  a  conspicuous  structure  of  red  brick,  on  the 
Renaissance  order,  designed  by  Richardson.  Boston.  No. 
1001,  on  N.  E.  cor.,  is  the  residence  of  ex-Senator  Eugene 
Hale  of  Maine.  No.  1006  was  formerly  (1906)  the  Cuban 
Legation.  No.  1013  formerly  the  Brazilian  Embassy  and  later 
the  Chilean  Embassy  is  now  the  residence  of  Senator  Joseph 
S.  Frelinghuysen.  No.  1017  was  until  1916  the  Venezuelan 
Legation. 

On  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  L  St.  is  the  former  home  of  Senator 
Redfield  Proctor  of  Vermont.  No.  1103  was  formerly  (1894) 
the  Portuguese  Legation.  No.  1125,  built  by  the  widow  of 
George  <M.  Pullman,  is  now  (1922)  the  Russian  Embassy. 
No.  1 155,  former  home  of  Senator  Elihu  Root  of  New  York. 

*The    National    Geographic    Society    (PI.    Ill— D3— 

No.  82)  occupies  the  greater  part  of  the  western  block  between 
L  and  M  Sts.  It  includes  two  buildings:  1  (at  the  S.  W.  cor. 
of  M  St.)  The  Hubbard  Memorial  Hall,  erected  in  1902  by  the 
heirs  of  the  late  Gardiner  Greene  Hubbard,  first  President  of 
the  Society.  This  building,  which  the  society  soon  outgrew, 
is  now  occupied  by  the  Board  Rooms  and  Library ;  2.  The  new 
Administration   Building,  immediately   adjoining  on  the    S.,    a 


200  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

white  brick  structure  with  limestone  trim,  on  the  Italian 
Renaissance  order,  erected  in  1913  at  a  cost  of  $125,000  (Arthur 
B.  Heaton,  architect). 

History.  The  National  Geographic  Society  was  founded  in  Wash- 
ington, January,  1888,  by  a  small  group  of  explorers  and  students, 
with  the  declared  purpose  "to  promote  the  increase  and  diffusion  of 
geographic  knowledge."  For  the  first  ten  years  the  membership  was 
limited  to  technical  geographers.  The  organization,  however,  was 
ambitious  to  extend  its  activities  in  two  directions:  1.  by  arousing 
a  widespread  interest  in  geography,  both  in  schools  and  among  the 
general  public;  2.  by  equipping  and  sending  out  from  time  to  time 
scientific  exploring  parties.  Lack  of  funds  held  these  aims  in  abey- 
ance until  in  1899  the  suggestion  was  made  and  promptly  acted  on, 
to  establish  a  National  Geographic  Magazine,  to  be  devoted  mainly_  to 
pictures  and  articles  acquired  through  the  society's  exploring  parties. 
At  the  same  time,  conditions  of  membership  in  the  society  were 
radically  modified,  making  eligible  practically  all  persons  interested, 
on  the  sole  condition  that  the  candidate  shall  be  nominated  by  at 
least  one  member.  The  remarkable  success  of  the  new  venture 
has  resulted  in  a  membership  of  over  350,000,  and  an  income  of 
$850,000;  the  magazine  has  over  two  million  readers;  while  after 
all  the  expenses  of  its  costly  production  are  paid,  there  is  still  an 
annual  surplus  of  between  $50,000  and  $60,000  available  for  exploration 
purposes. 

No.  1201  16th  St.  is  the  new  home  of  the  National  Edu- 
cational Association,  a.  society  dating  from  1857,  which  in  its 
early  days  accomplished  the  establishment  of  the  Bureau  of 
Education  in  the  Interior  Department,  and  is  now  furthering 
the  project  of  a  Federal  Department  of  Education. 

No.  1232  16th  St.  was  the  home  of  the  late  Eliphalet 
Frazer  Andrews,  founder  of  the  Corcoran  School  of  Art 
(p.  184)  of  which  he  was  director  1877-1902.  He  painted 
several  of  fjhe  portraits  in  the  White  House,  including  those  of : 
Martha  Washington,  Dolly  Madison,  Jefferson  and  Garfield. 

Scott  Circle,  situated  at  the  intersection  of  Massachu- 
setts and  Rhode  Island  Aves.,  16th  and  N  Sts.,  occupies  an 
area  of  _ about  one  acre.  In  the  center,  facing  S.,  stands  the 
Equestrian  Statue  of  Lieut-Gen.  Winfield  Scott,  in  bronze, 
heroic  size,  modeled  by  H.  K.  Brown,  and  cast  in  Philadel- 
phia from  cannon  taken  in  the  Mexican  campaign.  This 
monument  was  erected  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  $20,000  for  the 
statue,  and  $25,000  for  the  pedestal,  which  consists  of  five 
huge  granite  blocks   from   Cape  Ann. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Scott  Circle  stands  the  semi-circular 
^Memorial  to  Christian  S.  F.  Hahnemann,  founder  of  homeo- 
pathy. It  consists  of  a  spacious  and  lofty  exedra,  with  a 
central  niche  and  canopy  containing  on  a  pedestal  a  'seated 
bronze  statue  of  Hahnemann.  On  the  base  is  inscribed  the 
Latin  maxim  embodying  the  fundamental  principle  of  homeo- 
pathy: Similia  similibus  curentur  ("Likes  are  cured  by  likes"). 
To  R.  and  L.  are  four  bronze  bas-reliefs  depicting  Hahnemann 


.SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PINEY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  201 

as:  a.  The  Student;  b.  The  Chemist;  c.  The  Teacher;  d.  The 
Practicing  Physician.  The  bas-reliefs  and  statue  are  by 
C.  H.  Niehaus.  The  monument  is  the  gift  of  The  American 
Institute   of    Homeopathy    (1900). 

Opposite,  on  the  W.  side  of  Scott  Circle,  is  a  monu- 
ment to  Daniel  Webster  (1782-1852).  It  consists  of  a  full- 
length  figure  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  surmounting  a  pedestal 
bearing  on  E.  and  W.  facades  two  bronze  tablets  in  high  re- 
lief, depicting  Webster:  1.  Addressing  the  Senate;  and 
inscribed,  "Liberty  and  Union,  now  and  forever,  one  and  in- 
separable" ;  2.  Addressing  an  out-door  gathering  of  his  con- 
stituents, and  inscribed,  "Our  country,  our  whole  country, 
and  nothing  but  our  country."  The  bronzes  were  designed 
by  G.  Trentanove,  and  cast  by  Fratelli  Galli,  Florence,  Italy. 
The  monument  was  the  gift  (1900)  of  Stilson  Hutchens 
who,  like  Webster,  was  a  native  of  New  Hampshire. 

At  N.  E.  dor.  of  16th  Sit.  and  Rhode  Island  Ave.,  No.  1301, 
is  a  red  brick  (building  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  largest  private 
dwellings  in  Washington.  It  has  had  many  distinguished  oc- 
cupants, including  the  Chinese  Legation,  George  von  L.  Meyer, 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  under  Roosevelt,  Hamilton  Fish,  and 
Francis  Burton  Harrison,  former  Governor  of  the  Philippines. 
No.  1325,  former  residence  of  Rev.  Alexander  Mackay-Smith, 
one-time  rector  of  St.  John's.  No.  1327  is  the  Colombian 
Legation.  No.  1333,  S.  E.  cor.  of  O  :St.,  residence  of  Elihu 
Root,  while  Secretary  of  State. 

The  First  Baptist  Church  occupies  the  opposite,  or  S.  W. 
cor.  of  O  St.  It  is  a  red  brick  structure  on  the  Italian 
Renaissance  order,  with  an  imposing  square  campanile  140  ft. 
high    (erected    1890;    W.   Bruce    Gray,   architect). 

The  First  Baptist  Church  was  organized  March  7th,  1802,  with 
six  members.  The  first  church  edifice  was  erected  at  the  S.  W.  cot 
of  I  and  19th  Sts.  In  1833  the  congregation  moved  to  a  new  building 
on  the  E.  side  of  10th  St.,  between  E  and  F  Sts.,  the  site  of  tha 
historic   Ford's  Theatre    (p.    145). 

No.  1401,  N.  E.  cor.  of  O  St.,  was  occupied  by  Vice- 
President  James  S.  Sherman ;  also  for  a  time  by  Russell  A. 
Alger  when  Secretary  of  War  under  McKinley.  No.  1412, 
residence  of  John  McElroy,  editor  and  author;  served  in 
the  Civil  War;  his  Andersonville,  published  1879,  reached 
a  sale  of  600,000  copies. 

The  Administration  Building  of  the  Carnegie  Institution 
of  Washington  (PI.  II — Di)  occupies  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  16th 
and  P  Sts.  The  design  of  the  building  is  an  adaptation  of 
the  Corinthian  order,  with  an  imposing  portico  consisting  of 
a  double  row  of  Corinthian  columns.  The  material  is  Indiana 
limestone   (erected  1908). 


202  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  Carnegie  Institution  of  Washington  was  founded  January  28, 
1902,  by  Andrew  Carnegie  with  an  endowment  of  ten  millions  in  5% 
registered  bonds,  to  which  ,ithe  donor  added  two  mare  millions  in  1907. 
The  purpose  of  the  Institution,  as  set  forth  in  the  Articles  of  Incorpora- 
tion is:  "To  encourage,  in  the  broadest  and  most  liberal  manner, 
investigation,  research  and  discovery,  and  the  application  of  knowledge 
to    the    improvement    of    mankind." 

The  exceptionally  broad  provisions  of  these  Articles  have  made 
it  possible  for  the  Institution,  not  only  to  establish  a  series  of 
permanent  departments  for  investigation  along  lines  that  have  suc- 
cessively commended  themselves,  but  also  to  conduct  from  time  to 
time  special  temporary  investigations,  and  to  enroll  into  the  service 
of  the  Institution  a  corps  of  specialists  whose  work  gives  promise 
of  exceptional  value.  Ten  permanent  departments  have  already  been 
organized,  and  cover  the  following  fields:  1.  Botanical  Research 
(Tucson,  Arizona) ;  2.  Economics  and  Sociology  (Worcester,  Mass.) ; 
3.  Experimental  Evolution  (Cold  Spring  Harbor,  L.  I.)  J  4-  Geophysical 
Laboratory  (Washington  D.  C,  441);  5.  Historical  Research  (Wash- 
ington, D.  C);  6.  Marine  Laboratory  (Dry  Tortugas,  Fla.);  7.  Meridian 
Astronomy  (Albany,  N.  Y. ;  8.  Solar  Observatory  (Pasadena,  Cal.); 
9.  Terrestrial  Magnetism  (Washington,  D.  C.) ;  10.  Nutrition 
Laboratory    (Boston,   Mass.). 

Opposite,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  P  St,  are  the  offices  of  the 
Alien  \Property  Custodian. 

No.  1500,  N.  W.  cor.  of  P  St.,  yellow  brick  building, 
former  home  of  Senator  Joseph  B.  Foraker  of  Ohio.  No. 
1513,  is  the  Persian  Legation.  No.  1528,  former  residence  of 
Senator  William  A.  Glark  of  Montana. 

The  Foundry  M.  E.  Church,  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Church 
St.,  is  a  gray  limestone  structure  in  perpendicular  Gothic, 
erected  in  1903-04  (Appleton  P.  Clark,  of  Washington,  archi- 
tect). The  laying  of  the  corner-stone  and  attendant  services, 
originally  planned  for  an  earlier  date,  were  postponed  until 
Saturday  and  Sunday,  June  27-28,  1903  (June  28th  being 
Wesley's  birthday).  The  church  contains  three  large  stained- 
glass  windows,  by  /.  &  R.  Lamb,  N.  Y.  1.  On  South,  The 
Holy  Family;  2.  On  North,  The  Angel  and  Women  at  the 
Empty  Tomb ;  3.  On  East,  over  entrance,  The  Arisen  Christ. 

History.  The  Foundry  Church  has  a  unique  origin.  Henry  Foxhall 
(175 8- 1 823),  an  Englishman,  who,  for  a  time  had  been  a  partner  in 
the  Eagle  Iron-works  (Phila.)  of  Robert  Morris  (signer  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence),  removed  in  the  early  years  of  the  19th 
century  to  Georgetown,  and  there  established  the  only  foundry  south 
of  Philadelphia.  At  the  outbreak  of  the  War  of  18 12  he  obtained  the 
government  contract  for  guns  and  ammunition,  and  furnished  an 
important  part  of  the   cannon   used   during  the  war. 

When  the  news  came  that  the  English  were  marching  upon  Wash- 
ington, Foxhall  naturally  feared  that  because  of  his  nationality  his 
foundries  would  be  the  special  mark  of  British  vengence.  Being  an 
attendant  at  the  Georgetown  M.  E.  Church  (to  which  all  Methodists 
in  Washington  had  to  come,  having  no  church  of  their  own),  Foxhall 
made  a  vow  that  if  the  British  spared  his  foundry  he  would  erect  a 
church  of  his  faith  in  Washington.  As  the  British  approached,  burning 
and  pillaging,  a  violent  storm  broke,  accompanied  by  a  cyclonic  wind, 
and  the  British  host  hurried  on  to  the  Capitol,  leaving  the  foundry 
unscathed. 


SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PINEY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  203 

In  accordance  with  his  vow  Foxhall,  that  same  year,  gave  a  plot 
of  land  situated  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  15th  and  G  Sts.,  and  erected  upon 
it  a  substantial  brick  edifice,  the  Foundry  Church,  professedly  named 
for  the  historic  foundry  in  England  where  John  Wesley  held  services 
but  presumably  with  Foxhall's  own  foundry  in  mind.  The  church 
was  twice  rebuilt  and  enlarged,  first  in  1848,  and  again  in  1864.  The 
latter  was  demolished  in  1902  to  give  place  to  the  Colorado  Building. 
So  great  had  been  the  rise  in  value  of  this  site  that  the  purchase  price 
more  than  paid  for  the  present  grounds  and  edifice.  Consequently,  the 
congregation  can  still  feel  that  their  new  church  remains  the  gift  of 
Henry    Foxhall. 

No.  1633  1 6th  St.  is  occupied  by  the  Ecuador  Legation. 

The  *Church  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  at  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  16th 
and  Corcorcan  Sts.,  is  a  graceful  structure  of  Bedford  lime- 
stone, designed  on  the  English  perpendicular  order,  slightly 
modified  by  French -Gothic  influence  as  seen,  for  instance,  in 
the  gargoyles.  Among  architects  it  is  known  as  the  "Church 
of  the  Magdalen  Tower,"  because  of  its  resemblance  to  the 
famous  tower  over  the  main  entrance  to  the  Magdalen  Col- 
lege, in  Oxford,  England.  Note  the  rose  wreath  carved  in 
the  moulding  of  the  Bride's  Door,  on  the  Corcorcan  St.  side. 
Adjoining  the  church,  on  the  S.,  is  the  Sunday  School  and 
Parish  House  Building,  the  fagade  of  which,  being  of  dressed 
stone,  is  thrown  into  prominence  by  contrast  with  the  rough 
finish  of  the  main  edifice.  Architect,  Prof.  H.  Langford 
Warren,  head  of  the  department  of  architecture,  Harvard 
University;  constructing  overseer,  Paul  J.  Pels. 

History.  It  is  interesting  to  remember  that  the  New  Church  in 
America  traces  its  organization  back  to  Maryland  and  Virginia.  The 
first  congregation  was  formed  in  Baltimore  in  1792,  while  many  prom- 
inent Virginians,  including  Col.  Robert  Carter,  Dr.  John  J.  Cabell  and 
Lord  Thomas  Fairfax,  were  instrumental  in  disseminating  the  doc- 
trines. George  Washington's  library  included  a  number  of  Sweden- 
borg's   works. 

The  Washington  Society  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  however,  was  not 
founded  until  1846.  It  has  had  six  pastors  including  the  present  in- 
cumbent, the  Rev.  Paul  Sperry.  The  earlier  church  edifice,  situated 
on  Capitol  Hill,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1889.  The  present  National 
New  Church  was  begun  soon  after  the  installation  of  the  fifth  pastor, 
Rev.    Frank    Sewell,   and   was   dedicated   May   3d,    1896. 

The  church  contains  some  interesting  windows,  designed 
to  carry  out  symbolically  the  whole  history  of  man's  fall  and 
redemption,  from  Genesis  to  the  Apocalypse.  The  series 
begins  with  the  window  at  the  W.  end  of  the  nave,  above  the 
entrance,  portraying  the  Creation;  the  Works  of  the  Six  Days 
being  symbolized  by  globes  carried  by  six  angels.  Beneath  is 
the  Angel  with  the  Flaming  Sword  who  has  expelled  Adam 
and  Eve,  and  is  guarding  the  gate  of  Paradise.  In  the  upper 
panel  is  the  Lord,  represented  as  a  Youth,  the  Eternal  Logos 
or  Word,  "by  whom  all  things  were  made  that  are  made." 
From  studios  of  /.  &  R.  Lamb,  New  York. 


204  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  nave  contains  six  windows  of  which  the  northern 
three  will  eventually  be  devoted  to  Old  Testament  prophets, 
and  the  southern  three  to  Old  Testament  kings.  The  only 
one  yet  installed  is  the  David  window,  made  by  MacDonald 
of  Boston,  representing  David  as  a  youth  playing  the  harp 
before  Saul. 

In  the  N.  transept  is  the  Gospel  window,  consisting  of 
three  panels  representing  (W.  to  E.)  :  I.  Christ  the  Good 
Shepherd;  2.  Christ  the  Comforter;  3.  Christ  the  Teacher 
of  Little  Children.  Above  and  below  are  some  sixteen  small 
panels  containing  scenes  depicting  the  life  of  Christ,  and 
including:  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  the  Flight  into  Egypt; 
the  boy  Christ  in  the  Temple;  the  Miracle  of  Loaves  and 
Fishes;  and  the  Last  Supper,  designed  b'y  Ford  &  Brooks, 
Boston. 

The  S.  transept  window,  to  be  installed  in  the  autumn  of 
1917,  will  depict  the  Resurrection  and  Ascension.  In  the 
chancel  are  seven  narrow  windows,  which  have  been  placed 
as  memorials  of  ministers  prominent  in  the  history  of  the 
New  Church  in  America  (L.  to  R.)  :  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Hay- 
den,  Hibbard,  Silver,  Giles,  Fox,  De  Charmes  and  John 
Worcester.  These  windows  are  emblematic  of  the  seven 
promises  of  the  Spirit  to  the  Angels  of  the  Seven  Churches 
(Revelations  i,  2-3)  ;  1.  Ephesus;  2.  Smyrna;  3.  Pergamos;  4. 
Thyatira  ;  5.  Sardis  ;  6.  Philadelphia ;  7.  Laodicea.  From  studio 
)of  Ford  &  Brooks,  Boston. 

Around  the  frieze  of  the  church,  bordered  with  an  an- 
cient Gothic  decoration,  runs  the  legend  (Revelations  xxi,  2.) 
"And  I,  John,  saw  the  Holy  City,  New  Jerusalem,  coming  down 
from  God,  out  of  Heaven,  prepared  as  a  bride  adorned  for 
her  husband." 

The  Western  and  Chancel  Windows  were  made  from 
designs  by  Mrs.  John  H.  James,  daughter  of  the  late  pastor, 
Rev.  Frank  Sewell. 

No.  1720  1 6th  St.  was  formerly  the  residence  of  Associate 
Justice  Henry  B.  Brown. 

The  ^Scottish  Rite  Temple  (PI.  Ill— D3— No.  76) 
occupying  upper  half  of  block  on  E.  side  of  16th  St.,  between 
R  and  S  Sts.,  was  erected  in  1916,  at  a  cost  of  approximately 
$2,odo,ooo,  by  the  thirty-third  degree  Masons,  the  highest  order 
of  the  great  masonic  body.  This  beautiful  structure,  said  to 
be  reminiscent  of  the  Mausoleum  of  Halicarnassus,  one  of  the 
seven  Wonders  of  the  Ancient  World,  was  designed  by  John 
Russell  Pope.  At  a  competitive  exhibition  held  in  New  York 
in   February,    1917,  by  the   Architectural   League   of   America, 


SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PIN'EY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  205 

this  Temple  was  decreed  to  be  the  finest  building  erected  during 
the  previous  year,  and  a  gold  medal  of  honor  was  awarded 
the  architect. 

The  primary  purpose  of  its  erection  was  to  afford  a 
meeting  place  for  the  National  Conventions  of  the  order, 
which  occur  only  once  in  two  years.  The  building,  however, 
is  open  to  the  public  on  week  days.  A  page  will  be  as- 
signed to  show  visitors  through  the  Temple  proper,  the 
banquet  hall,  library  and  committee  rooms. 

The  Temple  stands  on  an  eminence  several  feet  above 
the  street  level,  and  is  approached  by  four  successive  flights 
of  steps,  respectively  three,  five,  seven  and  nine  in  num- 
ber,— which,  like  almost  all  the  measurements,  decorations 
and  inscriptions  throughout  the  building,  have  symbolic  signifi- 
cance. 

The  edifice  itself  consists  of  an  almost  perfect  square, 
having  a  frontage  of  217^  ft.,  and  a  depth  of  212  ft.  Sur- 
mounting the  basement  story  is  a  square  Greek  Temple,  sur- 
rounded by  a  colonnade  of  Ionic  columns  thirty-three  ft. 
in  height,  ten  of  which  form  the  western  or  main  fagade. 
By  adding  the  additional  nine  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides,  and 
the  five  (three  of  them  engaged  columns)  on  the  rear,  we 
have  again  the  mystic  number  thirty-three.  Above  the  en- 
talblature  and  cornice,  which  encircle  the  colonnade,  the  Temple 
terminates  in  a  pyramidal  roof.  On  massive  plinths,  to  R. 
and  L.  of  main  approach,  are  two  sphinxes  (by  A.  A.  We'xn- 
mann)  symbolic  of  Divine  Wisdom  and  Power.  The  one 
is  depicted  with  open  eyes,  and  the  other  with  eyes  closed. 
On  the  plinths  are  inscriptions  in  Egyptian  hieroglyphics 
and  Phoenician  characters.  Before  the  main  door,  let  into 
the  pavement,  in  copper  bronze,  are  two  flaming  swords,  and 
between  them  the  following  inscription : 

"THE  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUPREME  COUNCIL  OF 
THE  THIRTY-THIRD  DEGREE  AND  LAST  DEGREE 
OF  THE  ANCIENT  AND  ACCEPTED  SCOTTISH  RITE 
OF  FREE-MASONRY  FOR  THE  SOUTHERN  JURIS- 
DICTION OF  THE  UNITED  STATES.  ERECTED  TO 
GOD  AND  DEDICATED  TO  THE  SERVICE  OF 
HUMANITY.     SALVE  FRATER." 

Carved  on  the  frieze,  over  the  entrance,  is  the  inscrip- 
tion: "Freemasonry  builds  its  Temples  in  the  Hearts  of 
Men  and  among  Nations."  A  plaque  on  the  Great  Door 
bears  an  oblong  square  containing  a  triangle,  in  the  center 
of  which  is  inscribed  the  number  33. 


206  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  Great  Door  admits  the  visitor  into  the  Atrium,  or 
entrance  hall,  occupying  the  central  portion  of  the  main  story. 
It  is  64  ft.  square  by  25  ft.  high.  On  the  N.  and  S.  sides 
are  a  series  of  four  fluted  columns  of  polished  dark  green 
granite.  The  door  on  L.  opens  into  the  apartments  of  the 
Sovereign  Grand  Commander.  The  door  on  the  R.  leads  into 
the  apartments  of  the  Secretary  General.  Both  of  these 
apartments  are  finished  in  Russian  walnut. 

At  the  rear  of  the  Atrium  a  double  flight  of  stairs  curves 
upward  in  the  eastern  elliptical  extension,  to  the  Great 
Chamber  in  the  upper  story.  This  chamber  forms  a  perfect 
cube  of  75  ft.,  measuring  to  the  top  of  the  perpendicular 
sides.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  which  rises  100  ft.  from 
the  floor  below.  The  chamber  is  lighted  by  three  great 
arched  windows  on  the  N.,  W.  and  S.  sides,  each  divided  by 
two  columns  of  green  granite,  the  lower  portion  of  each 
being  screened  by  a  tracery  of  intertwined  bronze  serpents. 

Extending  around  the  Temple  hall  is  a  frieze  of  black 
marble,   bearing   the   inscription : 

"FROM  THE  OUTER  DARKNESS  OF  IGNORANCE 
THROUGH  THE  SHADOW  OF  OUR  EARTHLY  LIFE 
WINDS  THE  BEAUTIFUL  PATH  OF  INITIATION 
UNTO  THE  DIVINE  LIGHT  OF  THE  HOLY  ALTAR." 

In  the  center  of  the  Temple  stands  the  Great  Altar,  a 
solid  block  of  black  marble,  veined  with  white,  with  four 
horns  at  the  respective  corners.  Let  into  the  pavement  around 
the  altar  is  the  inscription : 

"FROM  THE  LIGHT  OF  THE  DIVINE  WORD, 
THE  LOGOS,  COMES  THE  WISDOM  OF  LIFE,  THE 
GOAL  OF  INITIATION." 

Concealed  in  the  dome  is  a  great  organ,  which  can  be 
played  from  the  floor  of  the  Main  Temple. 

From  here  we  descend  to  the  Library  of  the  Supreme 
Council,  2>2>d.  Degree,  in  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  main  floor,  with 
stacks  in  the  eastern  ellipses  under  the  stairs.  This  library, 
now  containing  over  100,000  volumes  and  pamphlets,  dates 
from  a  resolution  passed  by  the  Supreme  Council  in  1878, 
appropriating  money  for  the  purchase  of  books.  General 
Albert  Pike,  who  was  the  Grand  Commander,  1859-91,  gave 
his  own  collection  of  over  5,000  volumes ;  and  thanks  to  this 
and  many  other  subsequent  donations,  the  library  is  today 
said  to  be  the  richest  and  most  complete  collection  of  the 
literature  of  Freemasonry  contained  in  any  Masonic  or  other 
librarv  in  the  world. 


SIXTEENTH  ST.  TO  PINEY  BRANCH  BRIDGE  207 

In  the  stack-room,  ranged  along  the  curve  of  the  inner 
wall,  are  table  cases  containing  the  Albert  Pike  Memorial 
Collection,  including  the  General's  various  insignia  and 
trophies,  manuscripts,  gifts,  and  personal  relics  of  widely 
varied  nature.  Note  especially  the  last  lines  written  by 
him  just  before  his  death,  and  the  pencil  with  which  he  wrote 
them. 

A  marble  staircase  at  the  rear  of  the  entrance  hall  leads 
to  a  great  Banquet  Hall  in  the  basement  story,  filling  the 
entire  space  beneath  the  Atrium.  On  the  walls  are  por- 
traits of  former  Grand  Commanders.  On  N.  and  S.  art 
spacious  committee  rooms  which,  like  the  banquet  hall,  are 
richly  finished  in  carved  woodwork. 

The  present  Grand  Commander  is  Charles  E.  Rosenbaum. 

No.  1813  16th  St.,  residence  of  Francis  E.  Leupp,  author, 
and  journalist  (has  published  The  Man  Roosevelt,  Biography 
of  William  H.  Taft,  The  Indian  and  his  Problem,  etc.).^ 
No.  1821,  former  residence  of  General  Rufus  Saxton,  U.  S.  A. 
No.  1923,  residence  of  Associate  Justice  Willis  Van  Deventer 
(formerly  occupied  by  Justice  David  J.  Brewer). 

Sixteenth  St.  is  intersected  at  U  St.  by  New  Hampshire 
Ave.  At  N.  E.  cor.  of  these  streets,  No.  2001  New  Hampshire 
Ave.,  is  the  Congressional  Club,  the  leading  women's  club  of 
Washington,  organized  in  May,  1908,  and  incorporated  by 
special  act  of  Congress.  It  forms  the  center  of  social  activity 
for  the  congressional  women,  those  eligible  for  membership 
being  the  wives  of  Senators,  Representatives,  Justices  of  the 
Supreme  Court  and  Members  of  the  Cabinet  (or  a  daughter 
or  sister,  if  she  presides  over  the  household).  The  wives, 
respectively,  of  the  President,  Vice-President  and  Speaker  of 
the  House  are  honorary  members.  The  land  was  given  by  the 
wife  of  the  late  Sen.  Henderson,  of  Missouri,  and  the  club 
house  erected  in  1914,  at  a  cost  of  $30,000.  At  the  intersection 
with  New  Hampshire  Ave.  also  stands  the  Evangelical 
Lutheran  Church  of  the  Epiphany. 

No.  2100  16th  St.,  N.  W.  cor.  of  V  St.,  residence  of 
former  Justice  Charles  Evans  Hughes,  when  nominated  for 
the  Presidency  in  19 16.  It  is  now  occupied  by  John  Wingate 
Weeks,  Secretary  of  War.  No.  2108,  a  notable  dwelling  on  the 
Mission  order,  with  spacious  grounds,  formerly  occupied  by 
the  Argentine  Legation. 

No.  2200  Sixteenth  St.,  at  the  intersection  of  Florida 
Ave.,  is  the  former  home  of  the  late  Senator  John  B.  Hen- 
derson (who  drafted  the  13th  Amendment  abolishing  slavery). 
It   is   popularly  known   as   "Henderson   Castle." 


208  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Sixteenth  St.  here  ascends  the  grade,  known  historically 
as  Meridian  Hill,  because  the  street  follows  the  meridian 
line  of  the  original  Ten-mile  Square  (see  Introduction).  On 
this  slope  stood  the  cabin  of  the  late  Joachim  Miller, 
"Poet  of  the  Sierras."  It  was  situated  a  little  W.  and  not, 
as  often  stated,  directly  in  the  line  of  16th  St.,  for  the  latter 
was  cut  through  the  hill  some  twenty  years  before  Miller 
located  his  cabin  there.  In  recent  years  the  cabin  was 
removed  to  Rock  Creek  Park  (p.  436). 

The  recently  laid-out  Meridian  Hill  Park,  now  in  course  of 
completion,  occupies  the  equivalent  of  four  city  squares  on 
E.  side  of  16th  St.,  extending  through  to  15th  St.  and  north 
from  W  to  Euclid  St.  The  park  contains  eight  entrances, 
the  principal  one,  with  grand  staircase  leading  to  central 
.terrace,  on  16th  St.,  opposite  Crescent  St.  (laid  out  under 
supervision  of  Col.  William  W.  Harts,  by  George  Bumham, 
the  present  architect-in-chief  of  outdoor  Washington). 

Space  has  been  left  for  a  large  sun-dial  which  will  mark  the  line 
of  meridian  of  old  Washington.  It  will  consist  of  a  stone  exedra 
serving  as  background  for  a  huge  stone  globe  supported  on  the 
shoulders  of  a  group  of  bronze  figures,  and  surrounded  by  an  equatorial 
band  of  bronze,  marking  the  hours  of  the  day.  In  the  lower  section 
of  the  Park,  will  also  stand  a  memorial  monument,  already  approved 
by  Congress,  of  President  Buchanan,  for  which  purpose  $100,000  was 
provided    in    the   will    of   the   late    Harriot    Lane   Johnson. 

Two  notable  statues  have  recently  been  unveiled  in  this  park,  that 
of  the  poet  Dante  stands  on  the  E.  side  ,  of  the  park,  half  way  down 
the  southern  slope.  It  is  a  colossal  bronze  figure,  a  replica  of  the  one 
erected  in  New  York  City,  and  was  given  by  the  Italian  Societies  of 
America.  Ettore  Ximenes,  sculptor;  pedestal  designed  by  Whitney 
Warren.  On  the  brow  of  the  terrace,  facing  S.,  stands  the  Equestrian 
Statue  of  Joan  of  Arc,  the  gift  of  French  women  in  New  York  City 
to  the  Women  of  America.  It  is  an  exact  copy  of  the  statue  by  Paul 
Dubois,  which  still  stands,  unmarred  by  the  war,  in  front  of  the  Rheims 
cathedral,  and  which  art  critics  regard  as  one  of  the  finest  equestrian 
statues  of  modern  times.  The  copy  was  executed  under  direction  of 
the  French  Minister  of  Education -and  Fine  Arts.  Pedestal  designed  by 
McKim,   Mead   &    White. 

On  the  high  ground  opposite  Meridian  Park,  at  No.  1624 
Crescent  Place  (a  short  street  curving  to  the  S.  W.),  is  the 
home  of  former  Ambassador  to  France,  Henry  White.  Here 
General  Joffre,  M.  Viviani  and  other  members  of  the  French 
Commission  were  quartered  in  May,   1917. 

No.  2400  1 6th  St.  is  a  large  apartment  house;  Justice 
Willis  Van  Deventer,  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  several 
Senators  reside  here.  It  also  contains  the  offices  of  the 
Panama  Legation.  No.  2460  is  the  French  Embassy.  No.  2600, 
home  of  former  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  Franklin  Mac- 
Veagh.  No.  2630  is  the  Cuban  Legation.  No.  2640  is  the 
Polish  Legation.  It  was  formerly  the  home  of  Mr.  Pullman, 
inventor  of  the  Pullman  Car. 


NEW  YORK  AVE,  TO  THE  NAVAL  HOSPITAL  209 

At  No.  2829  16th  St,  King  Albert  and  Queen  Elizabeth 
of  Belgium  and  their  son,  the  Duke  of  Brabant,  were  the  guests 
of  Breckinridge  Long  on  their  visit  to  Washington  in  Oct., 
1919.     Later  it  was  for  a  time  the  Mexican.  Legation. 

A  few  rods  further  N.,  where  Harvard  St.  intersects 
Columbia  Road,  is  the  nearest  point  from  which  to  reach  the 
eastern  entrance  to  the  Zoological  Park  (p.  444).  Here,  at 
the  junction  of  16th  and  Harvard  Sts.,  is  now  in  course  of 
erection  the  new  church  edifice  of  All  Souls  Unitarian  Church, 
successor  of  the  one  recently  demolished  at  the  S.  E.  cor.  of 
14th  and  L  Sts. 

About  one  mile  N.,  16th  -St.  is  carried  by  *Piney  Branch 
Bridge  across  a  deep  ravine,  through  which  Piney  Branch 
flows  S.  W.,  to  empty  into  Rock  Creek.  The  bridge  was 
designed  by  W .  J.  Douglas,  Engineer  of  Bridges  for  the  Dis- 
trict of  Columbia.  It  is  272  ft.  long  by  65  ft.  wide,  and  the 
roadway  is  about  60  ft.  above  the  stream.  The  finish  is  twc- 
colored  concrete,  the  main  expanse  of  the  spandril  walls  con- 
sisting of  a  concrete  made  of  gray  stone  dust,  while  the  con- 
crete of  the  trim  is  of  yellow  sand.  Flanking  the  approaches 
are  two  pairs  of  bronze  Tigers,  modeled  by  A.  Phimister 
Proctor. 

V.     New  York  Avenue  from  the  White  House  to 
the  Naval  Hospital 

Nezv  York  Avenue,  interrupted  by  the  Treasury  Building 
and  White  House  grounds,  continues  S.W.  from  17th  St., 
midway  between  E  and  F  Sts.  Passing  on  S.W.  cor.  the 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery  (p.  171)  we  reach,  on  opposite  s:de  of 
avenue,  the  recently  completed  and  admirably  equipped 
Central  Dispensary  and  Emergency  Hospital,  a  nine-story 
edifice  designed  by  Nathan  C.  Wyeth. 

Facing  the  hospital  is  the  new  Navy  Annex. 

*The  Octagon  House  (PI.  II — B-5),  one  of  the  most 
charming  examples  surviving  of  the  18th  century  type  of 
Colonial  town  house,  stands  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of 
New  York  Ave.  and  18th  St.  It  was  designed  for  Col.  John 
Tayloe  in  1798,  toy  William  Thornton  (p.  51),  and  was 
finished   in  1800. 

Col.  Tayloe  was  reputed  to  be  the  richest  Virginipn  of  his  time. 
His  estate  at  Mt.  Airy  was  the  largest  in  the  Old  Dominion,  and  his 
500  slaves  included  artisans  of  every  class.  Among  his  distinguished 
friends  was  Washington,  whose  advice  induced  him  to  abandon  his 
intention  of  settling  in.  Philadelphia,  and  to  build  instead  in  the  new 
Capital.  Washington  took  a  keen  interest  in  the  Octagon  House,  and 
frequently  visited  the  site  during  its  erection,  but  died  before  it  was 
completed.  From  1800  until  the  death  of  Col.  Tayloe,  in  1828,  the 
Octagon  House  was  famous  for  its  hospitality.     Among  its  distinguished 


NEW  YORK  AVE.  TO  THE  NAVAL  HOSPITAL  211 

guests  were  Presidents  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe  and  John  Ouincy 
Adams;    also    Decatur,    Porter,    Clay,    Calhoun,    Randolph    and    Lafayette. 

After  the  destruction  of  the  White  House  during  the  British  occu- 
pation of  1814,  President  and  Mrs.  Madison  occupied  the  Octagon 
House  for  the  greater  part  of  a  year,  at  the  invitation  of  Col.  Tayloe, 
who  was  one  of  the  many  leading  Washingtonians  that  promptly  offered 
their  homes  for  a  temporary  Executive  Mansion.  During  the  Civil 
War  the  house  was  confiscated  and  used  as  a  hospital  for  wounded 
soldiers.  Subsequently  it  became  a  Seminary  for  Young  Ladies.  Within 
recent  years  it  has  been  occupied  and  carefully  restored  by  the  Amer- 
ican Institute  of  Architects,  which  is  contemplating  the  erection  of 
an  extension  in  the  rear,  to  accommodate  the  Society's  business  offices, 
and  leave  the  whole  of  the  original  building  free  for  exhibition 
purposes. 

The  American  Institute  of  Architects  was  founded  February  23d, 
1857,  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  the  advancement  of  architecture,  a 
profession  then  scantily  appreciated  by  the  American  public.  The 
Civil  War  interrupted  the  meetings  of  the  Society  until  1864;  and 
from  that  date  until  1889  the  progress  of  the  Institute  was  slow. 
Nevertheless,  in  that  period  it  founded  11  chapters,  formed  the 
nucleus  of  a  library  and  established  a  schedule  of  fees  for  archi- 
tectural services.  In  1889  the  Institute  consolidated  with  a  younger 
organization,  the  Western  Association  of  Architects,  founded  in  1884 
by  a  group  of  energetic  young  men  of  the  Middle  West,  which 
rapidly  acquired  a  large  membership.  Since  then  the  growth  of  the 
Institute  has  been  rapid,  and  the  total  membership  has  risen  from 
338  to  more  than  1000.  In  1898  the  Institute  first  leased  the  Octagon, 
and  opened  it  on  the  occasion  of  the  convention  held  that  year,  at 
which  a  new  Constitution  and  By-laws  were  adopted.  In  1902  the 
Institute^  .purchased  the  Octagon  House,  through  the  initiative  of  Charles 
F.   McKim,  then   President. 

Since  1900  the  Institute  has  to  its  credit  numerous  important 
achievements.  It  initiated  the  movement  for  systematic  improvement 
of  American  cities;  secured  the  appointment  of  a  Commission  to 
report  on  the  development  of  Washington  City;  prevented  the 
remodeling  of  the  White  House  and  extension  of  the  Capitol  on  lines 
which  would  have  destroyed  their  beauty;  and  preserved  the  Mall 
by  demonstrating  that  an  improper  location  of  the  Agricultural 
Building  would  destroy  the  future  artistic  development  of  the  city. 
It  also  aided  in  the  establishment  of  the  American  Academy  in 
Rome;  and  has  initiated  a  movement  to  establish  a  post-graduate 
school  of  the  Fine  Arts  in  Washington.  It  gave  in  1907  its  first 
Gold  Medal  for  distinguished  achievement  in  architecture  to  Sir 
Aston  Webb,  the  noted  English  architect,  thus  establishing  a  prece- 
dent  of   honoring  those   who   have   distinguished   themselves    in   tnat   art. 

The  main  fagade  of  the  Octagon  House  stands  diag- 
onally facing  the  street  corner,  with  a  large  central  cir- 
cular tower  and  two  extensive  wings  running  back  respec- 
tively along  New  York  Ave.  and  18th  St.  The  material 
is  red  brick  with  trimmings  of  Aquia  Creek  sandstone.  The 
interior  arrangement  is  quite  simple,  the  main  floor  con- 
sisting of  a  large  circular  vestibule,  20  ft.  in  diameter,  open- 
ing upon  a  central  hallway  with  curving  stairs  and  a  well 
open  to  the  roof ;  and  on  right  and  left  respectively  of  this 
hallway  the  drawing-room  and  dining-room,  each  measur- 
ing 20  x  30  ft.  The  upper  floors  follow  substantially  the  same 
arrangements,  excepting  that  there  are  more  subdivisions. 


212  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  circular  vestibule  is  at  present  used  as  an  exhibi- 
tion gallery  of  portraits  of  former  presidents  of  the  Insti- 
tute and  other  distinguished  architects.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance, at  east  of  rear  door,  is  a  bronze  memorial  tablet 
inscribed:  "1857-1807.  The  American  Institute  of  Archi- 
tects on  the  fiftieth  Anniversary  of  its  Foundation  places 
this  Tablet  in  honor  of  its  Founders  and  of  those  who 
joined  with  them  to  frame  its  Constitution  and  By-Laws." 
Then  follows  a  list  of  the  founders,  which  among  others, 
includes  the  names  of  Richard  Upjohn,  Leopold  Eidlitz, 
Thomas  U.  Walter,  James  Renwick  and  Richard  Morris  Hunt. 

Above  the  tablet  hangs  the  original  plaster  model  of  the  Society's 
gold  medal,  designed  in  1907  by  A.  A.  Weinman.  To  R.  and  L.  of 
rear  door  are  alcoves  occupied  by  two  small  quaintly  shaped  stoves, 
said  to  date  back  to  Col.  Tayloe's  occupancy.  The  portraits,  from  R. 
to  L.,  beginning  on  W.  of  north  door,  are  as  follows:  1.  Richard 
Upjohn,  President  of  the  Institute  1857-78,  by  A.  Milo  Upjohn;  2. 
Richard  Morris  Hunt  (bas-relief  medallion);  3.  William  S.  Eames, 
President  1904-05,  by  Muller;  4.  George  B.  Post,  by  A.  E.  Foringer; 
after  E.  H.  Blashfield;  5.  Walter  Cook,  President  1912-13;  6.  G.  Benja- 
min Henry  Latrobe  (1764-1820);  7.  George  B.  Post  (bas-relief  medal- 
lion). 

The  visitor  should  note,  as  an  example  of  the  careful  workman- 
ship of  this  house,  that  all  the  work  of  this  circular  vestibule  coin- 
cides with  the  circumference  of  the  tower,  the  doors,  window  sash 
and   glass   all   being   made   on   the   circle. 

The  central  hall,  even  larger  than  the  vestibule,  has 
beneath  the  first  landing  of  the  curving  stairs,  which  as- 
cend on  the  east,  a  north  door  opening  on  the  old  garden 
enclosed  by  quaint  brick  walls.  The  original  drawing-room, 
now  used  by  the  Institute  for  board-meetings  and  recep- 
tions, is  entered  from  the  hall,  on  the  E.  It  was  here,  in 
front  of  the  mantel  at  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  room,  that  Mrs. 
Dolly  Madison  used  to  stand  while  receiving  her  guests ; 
and  the  most  brilliant  series  of  receptions  during  her  whole 
reign  as  Mistress  of  the  White  House  were  those  of  the  so- 
called  "Peace  Year,"  1814-15,  which  were  held  in  this  draw- 
ing-room. 

The  original  dining-room,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
hall,  is  at  present  occupied  by  the  Archaeological  Institute 
of  America.  Here  the  general  work  of  the  Archaeological 
Institute  is  carried  on,  its  records  kept,  and  the  plans  and 
photographs  of  its  Schools,  sites  of  excavations,  etc.,  are 
exhibited. 

The  Archaeological  Institute  of  America,  founded  in  1879  and 
incorporated  in  1906,  now  includes  50  affiliated  societies,  40  in  the 
United  States  and  10  in  Canada,  with  a  total  membership  of  over 
3100.  Besides  its  many  other  activities,  it  publishes  the  American 
Journal  of  Archaeology. 

The  circular  room  on  the  second  floor,  directly  above 
the    entrance   vestibule,   now   the    office    of    the    Secretary   of 


NEW  YORK  AVE.  TO  THE  ,NAVAL  HOSPITAL  213 

the  Institute  of  Architects,  was  once  the  private  study  of 
President  Madison;  and  here  on  February  18th,  1815,  the 
President  signed  the  Treaty  of  Ghent,  which  ended  the  war 
of  1812. 

The  rooms  above  the  old  dining-room  are  now  occu- 
pied by  offices  of  the  American  Academy  in  Rome  and  the 
American  Federation  of  Arts,  an  organization  dating  from 
1909  and  already  comprising  upward  of  200  Chapters.  The 
other  rooms  on  this  floor  are  occupied  by  various  offices 
of  the  Institute. 

Opposite  the  Octagon  House,  at  S.E.  cor.  of  New  York 
Ave.  and  18th  St.,  is  the  site  where,  more  than  a  century  ago, 
Dr.  William  Thornton  had  a  city  garden. 

West  of  the  Octagon  House  is  the  new  ^Department  of 
the  Interior  Building  (PI.  II — B4),  occupying  the  entire  block 
bounded  by  E  and  F,  18th  and  19th  Sts.  The  structure  is 
approximately  400  ft.  long  by  392  ft.  wide,  is  E-shaped,  and  is 
six  stories  high  on  the  (principal  or  F  St.  facade  (the  limit  of 
height  under  D.  C  regulations  for  residential  sections),  but  is 
increased  to  seven  stories  in  the  rear  (E  St.)  by  dropping  grade. 
On  the  E  St.  front,  midway  between  the  wings,  are  entrance 
driveways  leading  down  to  the  two  great  courts,  the  pave- 
ment of  which  is  at  basement  level.  Accordingly  the  court 
elevations  show  eight  stories.  The  building  contains  500,000 
sq.  ft.  of  office  space,  divided  into  737  rooms,  with  accom- 
modations  for  upward  of   1700  employees. 

The  Secretary  of  the  Interior's  duties  include  supervision  of  the 
General  Land  Office.  Reclamation  Service,  Geological  Survey,  Bureau 
of  Mines,  Office  of  Indian  Affairs,  Patent  Office,  Bureau  of  Pensions, 
Bureau  of  Education.  National  Park  Service  and  certain  hospitals  and 
other  institutions  within  the  District.  He  also  exercises  certain  powers 
and  duties  in  relation  to  Alaska  and  Hawaii;  and  is  authorized  to 
adjust  and  pay  claims  against  the  U.  S.  Fuel  Administration  and  also 
claims  filed  under   the  War   Minerals   Relief   Act. 

The  Bureaus  of  Pensions  and  of  Education  occupy  the 
Pension  iBdiilding  (p.  139)  and  the  Patent  Office  also  has 
its  own  home  (p.  142).  The  remaining  divisions  are  all 
housed  in  the  new  Interior  Building,  as  follows  : 

1.  The  Geological  Survey  occupies  almost  the  entire  F  St.  front, 
together  with  the  central  wing,  pressroom  wing  and  half  of  each  of 
the  two-story  southern  links.  Its  activities  include  the  making  of  a 
geologic  map  of  the  United  States,  an  annual  collection  of  statistics  of 
mineral  (production,  and  investigations  relating  to  surface  and  "underground 
waters.  z.  The  General  Land  Office  occupies  the  entire  west  wing, 
excepting  the  top  floor.  3.  The  Reclamation  Service  occupies  the  top 
Toor  of  the  west  wing.  Its  duties  comprise  the  survey,  construction  and 
operation  of  irrigation  works  in  the  arid  states.  4.  The  Bureau  of 
Mines  has  the  lower  stories  of  the  east  wdng,  and  half  of  the  easterly 
southern  link.  5.  The  Bureau  of  Indian  Affairs  occupies  the  third  and 
fourth   floors    of   the   north    wing. 


2i4  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  offices  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  take  up  the 
remaining  two  upper  floors  of  the  north  wing.  The  Public 
Office  is  notable  for  its  artistic  finish,  being  wainscotted  from 
floor  to  ceiling  in  ipaneled  English  oak,  with  a  molded  ribbed 
plaster  ceiling,  recessed  windows,  and  simple  Tudor  mantel, 
with  paneled  oak  overmantel.  The  library  and  auditorium 
(the  latter  having  a  seating  capacity  of  300)  are  separate 
buildings  projected  into  the  courts,  and  accessible  from  the 
public  corridor  on  the  first.  In  the  south  part  of  the  east 
court  is  the  press-room,  containing  the  great  color  presses 
of  the  map-making  division  of  the  Geological  Survey. 

Opposite  the  Interior  Building,  at  the  N.W.  cor.  of  18th 
and  F  St.,  is  a  dwelling  occupied  successively  by  Chief  Justice 
John  Marshall,  Richard  Wallach,  Mayor  of  Washington  dur- 
ing  1861-68,   and   Chief  Justice   Melville  W.   Fuller. 

One  block  further  N.  on  18th  St.,  at  S.E.  cor.  of  G  St., 
are  the  building  and  tennis-courts  of  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association    (PI.    II — C4). 

The  library  in  this  building  is  no  longer  the  private  property  of  the 
Association,  but  constitutes  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Washington 
Public  Library  (p.  226),  and  is  open  to  the  public.  The  tennis-courts 
on  the  corner  lot  occupy  the  site  of  an  historic  residence,  a  large  brick 
building  erected  and  occupied  by  Edward  Everett  when  Secretary  of 
State  under  Fillmore.  Subsequently  it  was  successively  occupied  by 
Jefferson  Davis  while  Secretary  of  War  under  Pierce,  and  Jacob 
Thompson,  Secretary  of  the  Interior  under  Buchanan.  During  the 
Civil  War  it  was  used  as  Quartermaster's  Department  of  the  Army 
in  charge  of  General  Tucker.  Next  it  became  the  home  of  Henry  A. 
Wise,  U.  S.  N.-,  son-in-law  of.  Everett;  and  lastly  was  rented  by  the 
Medical   Department   of  the   Navy. 

Another  old  landmark,  recently  demolished,  was  the  Wirt  mansion, 
which  stood  a  few  rods  E.  of  the  Everett  house.  It  w&s  first  occupied 
by  Tobias  Lear,  Washington's  private  Secretary.  Later  it  became  the 
home  of  the  eminent  jurist  William  Wirt,  who  lived  here  twelve  years 
while  Attorney-General  under  Monroe  and  the  younger  Adams. 

West  on  G  St.,  No.  1914,  is  a  venerable  dwelling  built 
about  1802  by  Commodore  Truxton,  and  later  occupied  by 
Lewis  Cass.  In  recent  years  it  became  the  home  of  Major- 
General  A.  W.  Greely,  best  known  for  his  Arctic  exploration. 

No.  2024  G  St.  was  the  home  of  Daniel  ,S.  Lamont. 

Opposite,  occupying  most  of  the  block  from  20th  to  21st 
St.,  is  George  Washington  University,  one  of  the  oldest  and 
best  equipped  schools  of  higher  learning  at  the  Capital.  It 
includes  a  preparatory  school,  departments  of  under 
graduate  and  postgraduate  academic  studies,  the  Corcoran 
Scientific  School,  and  Schools  of  Law,  Medicine  and 
Dentistry.  It  is  also  affiliated  with  the  College  of 
Veterinary  Medicine,  and  the  National  College  of  Pharmacy. 
The  names  of  many  prominent  members  of  the  Smithsonian 
Institution   and   Geological    Survey,   as   well   as   officers   distin- 


PENNSYLVANIA  AVE.  TO  ROCK  CREEK        215 

guished  in  the  technical  branches  of  the  Army  and  Navy  are 
found  upon  its  list  of  professors  and  lecturers. 

The  University  dates  from  1821,  when  it  was  established  by  Act 
of  Congress  as  a  theological  school,  under  the  title  of  Columbian  College 
of  the  District  of  Columbia.  In  1873  the  name  was  changed  to  Co- 
lumbian University,  and  in   1904  the  present  name  was  adopted. 

The  University  possesses  a  small  but  valuable  library  (approxi- 
mately 40,000  volumes,  exclusive  of  the  law  and  medical  libraries). 
Its  special  features  are  the  classsical  library  of  Prof.  Curt  Wachsmuth  of 
the  University  of  Leipzig,  the  library  of  Germanic  philology  belonging 
to  the  late  Prof.  Richard  Heinzel  of  the  University  of  Vienna,  and  the 
"Mount  Vernon  Alcove"  of  international  law  and  political  science, 
established  by   Mr.   Andrew  Carnegie. 

One  square  S.,  at  No.  2017  F  St.,  is  the  house  in  which 
James  Monroe  was  living  when  elected  President.  This 
house  was  also,  for  a  time,  the  home  of  the  famous  meteorol- 
ogist, Cleveland  Abbe  (p.  237). 

Three  squares  W.,  on  the  W.  side  of  E  St.,  between  23d 
and  25th  Sts.,  are  the  grounds  and  building  formerly  occu- 
pied by  the  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory  (p.  442),  and  now  the 
Naval  Museum  of  Hygiene.  Here  is  exhibited  a  collection 
of  appliances  used  in  the  Navy  for  the  protection  and  preserva- 
tion of  human  life.  In  the  same  grounds  are  the  Naval  Hospital, 
the  Naval  Medical  School  and  the  Pay  Officers'  School. 

In  the  grounds  is  a  monument  to  Dr.  Benjamin  Rush 
(1745-1813),  a  distinguished  physician  of  his  day,  who  ren- 
dered valiant  service  during  the  yellow  fever  epidemic  in 
Philadelphia.  He  was  one  of  the  Signers  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence.  The  monument  was  erected  in  1904  by  the 
American  Medical  Association. 

VI.     Pennsylvania  Avenue  from  the  White  House 
to  Rock  Creek 

This  section  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  is  historically  interest- 
ing as  sharing  with  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Capitol  the 
distinction  of  having  been  one  of  the  earliest  residential 
centres.  Here  were  erected  the  historic  "Six  Buildings"  and 
"Seven  Buildings,"  in  which  scores  of  members  of  Congress 
were  glad  to  find  an  abiding  place.  Here  also,  a  little  later, 
was  the  Franklin  House,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  of  early 
Washington  hotels.  Today  there  is  comparatively  little  to 
interest  the  stranger,  and  most  points  of  interest  may  be 
expeditiously  seen  from  the  trolley  car  during  the  trip  to 
Georgetown  (p.  10). 

The  Mills  Building,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave., 
and  17th  st.,  was  named  from  its  owner,  Gen.  Anson  Mills, 
retired.  Until  the  completion  of  the  new  Department  of 
Labor  Building  in  1917,  it  rortained  most  of  the  offices  of 
that  Department,  including  those  of  the   Secretary  of  Immi- 


2i6  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

gration,  Information,  Naturalization,  Labor  Statistics  and  the 
Children's  Bureau. 

Opposite,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  17th  St.,  is  the  site  of  the 
headquarters  of  General  Mansfield  during  the  Civil  War. 
Passes  were  issued  here  to  cross  the  Long  Bridge  and  through 
the  Federal  lines. 

During  the  last  quarter  of  the  19th  century  a  number  of 
Central  and  South  American  States  had  their  Legations  in  ths 
block  between  17th  and  18th  Sts.,  but  the  old  houses  which 
they  occupied  have  all  been  replaced  by  modern  structures. 

No.  1732  Pennsylvania  Ave.  is  the  site  of  the  house  ii 
which  General  Winfield  Scott  resided. 

At  N.  E.  cor.  of  18th  St.  is  the  Hotel  Powhatan,  a  ten- 
story  structure  of  buff  brick,  recently  enlarged  (p.  5). 
Milburn  Heister  &  Co.,  architects.  Directly  opposite,  on  the 
S.  E.  cor.  of  18th  St.,  is  the  newly  erected  building  of  the 
Interstate  Commerce  Commission,  an  eleven-story  structure  of 
buff  brick  and  limestone,  on  the  order  of  the  modern  loft  building. 

This  Commission  constitutes  a  Bureau  empowered,  under  the  Aot 
of  February  4,  1887,  to  examine  into  the  management  of  the  business  ot 
all  Common  Carriers.  All  interstate  traffic  is  under  its  jurisdiction.  It 
was   formerly  located   in   the   Sun   Building,    131 7   F  St. 

The  new  Commerce  Building  (PI.  Ill — E3 — No.  39),  an 
eleven-story  structure  of  ibuff  brick,  stands  at  the  N.  E.  cor. 
of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  19th  St.  It  contains  the  offices  of  the 
following  Bureaus ;  1.  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce ;  2. 
Lighthouses ;  3.  (Navigation ;  4.  Steamboat  Inspection. 

Here  also  is  the  Labor  Statistics  Library,  Room  201-209  (U.  S. 
Department  of  Labor),  founded  in  1885,  and  now  containing  approxi- 
mately 28,000  volumes  and  pamphlets.  Open  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  daily, 
except  Sundays  and  Holidays.  Reference  library  open  to  all  students 
and  investigators  of  social  problems. 

Opposite,  across  a  triangular  square  at  the  'S.  E.  cor.  of 
19th  and  H  Sts.,  stands  the  Volunteer  Engine  House,  still 
bearing  the  inscription  ''Union  Engine  Instituted  1815."  It 
is  now  occupied  jointly  by  the  surviving  members  of  the 
original  Volunteer  Association  and  by  the  Association  of 
Oldest  Inhabitants. 

The  Association  of  Oldest  Inhabitants  was  organized  December  7, 
1865,  and  has  numbered  among  its  Presidents,  Benjamin  Ogle  Tayloe, 
W.  A.  Bradley,  Dr.  J.  B.  Blake  and  Theodore  W.  Noyes,  editor  of 
the  Star. 

The  declared  object  of  the  Association  is  "to  cement  and  strengthen 
the  interest  and  associations  arising  out  of  a  common  residence  for  a 
long  period  in  the  same  locality,  to  keep  alive)  the  remembrances  of  the 
past,  and  the  social  and  paternal  communion  of  the  present  and  the 
future." 

Requirements:  local  residence  of  35  years,  and  age  of  50  years  and 
upward.  Since  the  Veteran  Volunteer  Fireman's  Association  must  in- 
evitably  be   extinguished   through   death,    this   building,   assigned   by   Act 


PENNSYLVANIA  AVE.  TO  ROCK  CREEK       217 

of    Congress,    is    destined    to     become    the     exclusive    possession    of    the 
"Oldest  Inhabitants." 

The  Association  possesses  a  museum  which  contains  among  other 
historic  relics  the  surveyor's  chain,  used  in  laying  out  the  streets  and 
avenues  of   Washington. 

At  N.  W.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  19th  St.,  Nos. 
1901-1913,  still  stand  the  historic  "Seven  Buildings,"  com- 
pleted about  1800.  The  corner  house  was  the  State  Depart- 
ment when  John  Marshall  was  Secretary.  James  Madison 
occupied  it  as  the  Executive  Mansion,  1815-17,  during  the 
restoration  of  the  White  House  (p.  112),  and  after  his  tem- 
porary stay  in  the  Octagon  House  (p.  212).  Elbridge  Gerry 
and  Martin  Van  Buren  occupied  it  when  vice-presidents,  and 
Robert  J.  Walker  when  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  Here  also 
Gen.   George  B.    MoClellan  had   his   headquarters   in    1861. 

In  this  rowt  also  lived  General  Trureau  de  Garambonville,  Minister 
of  France,  in  1804,  and  Gen.  John  Armstrong,  George  W.  Campbell, 
James  K.  Paulding  and  Benjamin  W.  Crowninshield,  Cabinet  officers. 
In  1 816  No.  1905  became)  the  residence  of  Jose  Correa  da  Serra.  first 
Portuguese  Minister  to  the  United  States.  In  1864  it  was  occupied  by 
Chevalier  Josephi  Bertinatti,   Minister   Resident   of   Italy. 

The  N.  W.  cor.  of  21st  and  I  Sts.  is  historic.  Here, 
about  1800,  one  William  O'Neale  opened  a  public  house, 
which  became  a  favorite  stopping  place  for  Congressmen 
from  Tennessee ;  among  others,  Senator  Williams  and  Repre- 
sentatives Claiborne,  Hogg,  Marr  and  Rhea.  Here  General 
Eaton,  from  181 1  onward,  and  later  General  Jackson,  made 
their  home.  Here  also  Vice-President  Clinton  died  April 
1 2th,  1 81 2. 

This  hotel  was  called  at  first  O'Neale's  Hotel,  and  later  -the 
Franklin  House.  Aboyt  1823  John  Gadsby,  who  had  been»a  successful 
landlord  in  Alexandria  (p.  516)  and  Baltimore,  bought  out  the  hotel 
and  clonducted  it  until   1828,  when  he  lea?ed  the   National    (p.    100). 

The  chief  historic  interest  connected  with  O'Neale's  Hotel  centert 
in  the  proprietor's  daughter,  Margaret,  popularly  known  as  Peggy 
O'Neale.  In  1816,  while  still  a  mere  girl,  she  married  John  B.  Timber- 
lake,  a  purser  in  the  U.  S.  Navy.  He  died  in  1824.  She  married  for 
the  second  time,  1829,  General  Eaton,  Secretary  of  War  under  Jack- 
son. This  marriage  precipitated  a  social  war  in  Washington.  Accusa- 
tions against  the  lady's  good  name  were  made  openly,  both  in  Cabinet 
circles  and  in  the  New  York  Ave.  Presbyterian  Church,  which  she 
attended.  The  ladies  of  the  Cabinet  refused  to  recognize  her.  Presi- 
dent Jackson  instituted  an  investigation  and  championed  her  cause,  to 
the  extent  of  sending  home  a  favorite  niece  then  acting  as  mistress 
of  the  White  House,  who  was  obdurate  in  her  refusal  to  receive  Mrs. 
Eaton.  The  President  thought  that  he  saw  a  way  out  of  the  dilemma 
by  appointing  General  Eaton  Minister  to  France;  but  this  the  General 
declined,  refusing  to  retreat  under  fire.  Incidentally,  the  New  York 
Ave.  Presbyterian  Church  was  split  in  two,  and  between  resignations  on 
both  sides  the  minister  found  himself  preaching  to  an  almost  empty 
house. 

Subsequently  General  Eaton  was  appointed  Minister  to  Spain;  and 
here,  for  a  few  years,  Peggy  O'Neale  probably  enjoyed  the  happiest 
period    of    her    life.    After    her    husband's    death    she    received,    in    her 


218  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

later  years,  in  some  measure  the  social  recognition  that  had  earlier 
been  denied  her.  Her  crowning  folly  was  her  third  marriage.  An 
Italian,  Antonio  Buchignani,  who  claimed  to  be  a  Count,  and  who 
established  a  dancing  school  in  Washington,  not  only  won  her  elderly 
affections,  but  cajoled  her  into  transferring  to  him  the  bulk  of  her 
property.  Thereupon  he  eloped  with  his  bride's  married  granddaughter, 
one  Emily  Randolph.  Peggy  O'Neale  rose  to  the  situation,  and  through 
legal  channels  accomplished  her  own  divorce  and  that  of  her  grand- 
daughter, and  compelled  the  marriage  of  the  latter  with  her  errant  hus- 
band. She  lived  on  in  Washington  until  her  8oth  year,  and  died  at 
the  Lochiel  House,  512  9th  St.,  November  8th,  1879.  She  was  buried 
beside  her  second  husband,  General  Eaton,  m  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (p.  479). 

The  Franklin  hotel  was  later  converted  into  dwelling 
houses  and  known,  first  as  Gadsby's  Row,  and  later  as  Mc- 
Blair's  Row,  and  descendants  of  'the  Gadsby-McBlair  family 
continued  to  occupy  these  houses  down  to  1906. 

Nos.  2107-21 17  Pennsylvania  Ave.  constitute  the  row  for- 
merly known  as  the  "Six  Buildings."  In  1800,  No.  2107  was 
the  first  Navy  Office,  and  here  Samuel  Houston,  Governor 
of  Tennessee,  U.  S.  Senator  and  first  President  of  Texas, 
had  his  residence.  Other  distinguished  occupants  of  these 
buildings  include:  Gen.  James  Wilkinson,  General-in-Chief  of 
the  Army,  1796;  John  Francis  Mercer,  first  president  of  the 
C.  and  O.  Canal  Co.,  and  James  Madison  when  Secretary 
of  State. 

Opposite,  No.  2106,  is  the  house  in  which  William  B. 
Magruder,  sixteenth  Mayor  of  Washington  (1856-57)  lived 
and  died. 

Pennsylvania  Ave.  intersects  New  Hampshire  Ave.  at 
Washington  Circle,  the  crossing  point  of  23d  and  K  Sts.  In 
the  centre  of  this  Gircle  stands  an  Equestrian  statue  of  Wash- 
ington, upon  a  pedestal  of  white  marble  blocks. 

This  statue,  modeled  by  Clark  Mills,  was  unveiled  February  22, 
1880.  It  is  intended  to  represent  Washington  as  nearly  as  possible  as 
he  appeared  at  the  Battle  of  Princeton.  The  face  was  modeled  from  the 
head  done  by  Houdon;  the  uniform  was  copied  from  one  actually  worn 
by  Washington;  and  the  trappings  of  the  horse  were  taken  from  those 
represented  by    Trumbull,  who  was   one   of  Washington's  Aides. 

On  the  S.  E.  side  of  Washington  Circle,  W.  of  New  Hampshire  Ave., 
is  St.  Ann's  Infant  Asylum.  The  eastern  section  of  this  building  is  an 
old  private  residence  dating  back  to  the  early  20's.  It  was  originally 
build  by  a  Captain  Kuhn  of  the  Marine  Corps.  Later  it  was  occupied 
as  the  Legation  by  Fox,  the  British  Minister,  and  nephew  of  Charles 
Fox,  the  famous  statesman. 

At  25th  and  L  Sts.  is  the  Columbia  Hospital  for  Women  (Nathan 
C.  Wyeth,  architect).  Opposite,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
and  25th  St.  is  St.  Stephen's  Catholic  Church,  organized  in  1865.  The 
building  is  of  red  pressed  brick,  on  the  Byzantine  order  of   architecture. 

The  United  States  Weather  Bureau  is  situated  on  the  S. 
side)  of  M  St.  between  24th  and  25th  Sts.,  directly  in  the  rear 
of  the  Columbia  Hospital  for  Women.  It  is  a  branch  of  the 
Department  of  Agriculture,  and  its  chief  activities  fall  under 
five   heads:    1.  Weather    Forecasts    and    Warnings;    2.  River 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL   STREETS  219 

and  Flood  Forecastings ;  3.  Climatological  Work ;  4.  Agricul- 
tural  Meteorology;   5.  Vessel  Reporting. 

History.  Early  attempts  to  interest  Congress  in  the  establishment 
of  a  National  Weather  Bureau  met  with  little  response.  On  September 
1st,  1869,  Dr.  Cleveland  Abbe  inaugurated  daily  weather  forecasts  for 
the  Cincinnati  Chamber  of  Commerce;  and  the  success  of  this  ex- 
periment resulted  in  an  Act  of  Congress,  dated  February  9th,  1870, 
authorizing  and  requiring  the  Secretary  of  War  "to  provide  for  taking 
meteorological    observations    at    the    military    stations    in  the 

United  States,  and  for  giving  notice  on  the  northern  lakes  and  on  the 
sea  coast     ...     of  the  approach  and  force  of  storms." 

The  appropriation  bill  for  1872  extended  the  scope  of  the  Weather 
Bureau  by  providing  "for  expenses  of  storm  signals  announcing  the 
probable  approach  and  force  of  storms  throughout  the  United  States, 
for  the  benefit  of  Commerce  and  Agriculture." 

By  an  Act  dated  October  1st,  1890,  the  meteorological  work  of  the 
Signal  Office  was  transferred  to  the  Department  of  Agriculture,  and 
under  this  Act  the  present  Weather  Bureau  was  created. 

To  the  general  public  the  Weather  Bureau  is  best  known 
through  its  daily  forecasts  and  weather  maps.  These  fore- 
casts are  based  upon  simultaneous  observations  of  local 
weather  conditions  taken  daily  at  8  A.  M.  and  8  P.  M. 
(75th  meridian  time),  at  approximately  200  stations  scat- 
tered throughout  the  United  States  and  West  Indies,  and  sup- 
plemented by  daily  reports  from  various  other  points  in  the 
northern  hemisphere. 

Within  two  hours  after  the  morning  observations  have  been 
taken,  forecasts  are  telegraphed  to  1600  distributing  points,  from  which 
they  are  further  disseminated  by  telegraph,  telephone,  wireless  telegraphy 
and  mail.  The  enormous  number  of  individuals  reached  by  this  system 
is  illustrated  by  the  fact  that  the  forecasts  are  delivered  daily  by  mail 
to  approximately  90,000  addresses,  and  by  telephone  to  upward  of 
5,500,000   subscribers. 

The  Weather  Bureau  Library  (which  has  remained  sep- 
arate from  the  other  Bureau  libraries  of  the  Agricultural  De- 
partment) includes  today  upward  of  34,000  volumes,  includ- 
ing pamphlets.  In  meteorology  and  climatology  it  is  be- 
lieved to  be  stronger  than  any  other  library  in  the  world. 

Regulations.  Open  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays,  from  9 
A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  It  is  a  reference  library,  intended  primarily  for  the 
officials  and  staff  of  the  Bureau,  but  outsiders  engaged  in  scientific 
investigations   are   welcome   to  use  it. 

VII.     Other  Residential  Avenues  and  Streets 
a.     Vermont  Avenue 

Vermont  Avenue  runs  N.  N.  E.  from  Lafayette  Square 
and  H  St.  to  Florida  Ave.,  a  distance  of  about  one  and  one- 
third  miles,  and  is  interrupted  by  McPherson  Square  and 
Thomas  and  Iozva  Circles. 

On  W.  side  from  H  to  I  Sts.  is  the  Arlington  Building, 
now  housing  the  Veterans'  Bureau  (p.  190). 


220  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Between  I  and  K  Sts.  is  McPherson  Sq.,  containing-  a 
bronze  equestrian  statue,  heroic  size,  of  Maj.-Gen.  James  B. 
McPherson    (1828-64).     James  T.  Robisso,  sculptor. 

The  figure,  14  ft.  in  height,  represents  the  General  as  surveying 
a  battlefield.  On  one  panel  is  inscribed  the  single  word  "Atlanta,"  the 
scene  of  McPherson's  death.  The  statue,  made  from  Confederate  cannon 
captured  in  Georgia,  was  erected  by  the  Society  of  the  Grand  Army 
of  the   Tennessee,   at  a  cost  of  $48,000.      Unveiled    1876. 

Facing  the  square,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  I  St.,  is  the  home  of 
the  University  Club,  a  handsome  six-story  structure  of  buff 
brick  and  limestone,  designed  by  George  Oakley  Totten. 
Note  the  terra-cotta  medallions  on  E.  and  S.  fagades,  con- 
taining the  seals  of  the  principal  Universities. 

The  University  Club,  composed,  as  its  name  implies,  of  the  gradu- 
ates of  American  Colleges  and  Universities,  has  a  present  membership 
of  over  1450,  of  which  925  are  resident  members.  Its  declared  objects 
are  "educational,  literary,  musical  and  scientific,  for  the  promotion  of 
the  Arts  and  for  mutual  improvement."  The  smaller  entrance  door,  at 
west  end  of  the  I  -St.  fagade,  gives  admission  to  the  Club  Annex,  con- 
taining parlor  and  restaurant,  where  the  wives  and  daughters  of  mem- 
bers may  entertain  their  friends. 

Directly  across  McPherson  Park,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  15th 
and  I  Sts.,  is  the  Hotel  Bellevue   (p.  5). 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Vermont  Ave.  and  K  St.  is  the 
8-story  building  now  occupied  by  the  Department  of  Justice. 
Portraits  of  former  Attorneys  General  offer  the  only  attrac- 
tion to  sightseers.  Open  to  visitors  week  days,  from  9  a.  m. 
to  -2  p.  m. 

In  the  block  N.  of  K  St.  are  several  historic  homes.  No. 
1014  is  the  former  residence  of  Joseph  G.  Cannon  when 
Speaker  of  the  House.  No.  1016  was  once  the  Hayti  Lega- 
tion. No.  1022  was  the  home  of  James  Wilson,  for  sixteen 
years  Secretary  of  Agriculture.  Opposite,  on  E.  side,  is  the 
Arlington,  a  recently  opened  Apartment  Hotel. 

No.  1 120  is  The  Burlington,  one  of  the  largest  Apart- 
ment Houses  on  the  Avenue.  Adjoining,  on  the  N.,  No.  1122, 
is  the  former  home  of  Supreme  Court  Justice  William  B. 
Woods  (1824-87).  Prior  to  1880  it  was  for  a  time  the  Jap- 
anese Legation.  No.  1124  was  formerly  the  home  of  Senator 
William  B.  Allison. 

At  Thomas  Circle,  14th  and  M  Sts.,  Vermont  and  Massa- 
chusetts Aves.  intersect  (p.  228).  On  ;S.  side  of  Circle,  at  an 
angle  formed  by  14th  St.  and  Vermont  Ave.,  is  the  Portland 
(p.  5),  a  residential  hotel.  Here  at  various  times  have 
lived  Secretary  of  the  Navy  Charles  J.  Bonaparte,  Secretary 
of  the  Navy  John  D.  Long,  Senator  Albert  J.  Beveridge  and 
Secretary  of  Agriculture  J.  Sterling  Morton,  the  originator 
of  "Arbor  Day."  It  was  the  first  apartment  building  in 
Washington    (erected    1880). 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL    STREETS  221 

In  the  N.  triangle  formed  by  Massachusetts  and  Vermont 
Aves.,  and  directly  in  front  of  the  Lutheran  Memorial 
Church,  stands  the  *Martin  Luther  Statue  of  bronze,  heroic 
size,  erected  by  the  Lutheran  Church  of  America  at  a  cost 
of  $10,000.  This  justly  admired  statue  was  cast  in  Ger- 
many from  the  same  molds  as  Rietschel's  center-piece  of  the 
memorial  at  Worms. 

The  Lutheran  Memorial  Church  is  a  pleasing  structure 
in  ornate  Gothic,  the  cornerstone  of  which  was  laid  in  1870. 
The  spacious  auditorium  is  almost  elliptical  in  shape,  and 
contains  some  interesting  memorial  windows.  The  best  of 
these,  in  memory  of  the  Rev.  Henry  N.  Pohlmann,  D.D., 
"For  53  years  a  faithful  minister  of  Christ,"  contains  the  full- 
length  figure  of  Luther,  "The  liberator  of  modern  thought." 
Other  windows  contain  medallion  portraits :  W.  side,  John 
Knox;  Calvin;  Ulric  Zwingli ;  John  Wesley;  E.  side,  Gus- 
tavus  Adolphus ;  John  Huss ;  John  Wicklif ;  Philip  Mel- 
ancthon. 

East  on  N  St.,  No.  1310,  is  now  (1922)  the  office  of  the 
Japanese  Embassy. 

One  block  N.  on  Vermont  Ave.,  W.  side,  just  above  N 
St.,  is  the  Vermont  Avenue  Christian  Church,  a  commodious 
Gothic  structure  of  red  brick,  popularly  known  as  the  Gar- 
field Memorial  Church,  and  constituting  in  the  District  of 
Columbia  the  Mother  church  of  the  Christian  or  Campbellite 
Faith. 

During  the  many  years  that  Garfield  served  in  Congress, 
he  worshiped  in  a  little  frame  chapel  which  stood  on  the 
site  of  the  present  church.  WThen  he  was  elected  President, 
the  Society  determined  to  erect  a  new  church  which  should 
be  the  leading  one  of  this  Faith  in  the  country.  The  old 
pew  occupied  by  Garfield  while  President  has  been  marked 
with  a  tablet,  and  stands  in  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  the  present 
church,  adjoining  the  door  leading  into  the  Sunday  School. 
Above  this  door  is  an  admirable  bronze  tablet  by  U.  S.  J. 
Dunbar,  portraying  the  Rev.  Frederick  D.  Power,  the  pastor 
of  the  church  in  Garfield's  time.  In  the  Church  Parlor  may 
be  seen  a  photograph  of  the  original  chapel,  and  the  Sexton 
will  point  out  the  window  through  which  the  assassin 
Guiteau  had  planned  to  fire  his  fatal  shot,  only  a  week  or 
two  before  the  actual  murder ;  he  happened  to  choose  one  of 
the  very  few  Sundays  when  Garfield  was  absent  from  service. 

At  Iowa  Circle,  13th  and  P  Sts.,  Vermont  and  Rhode 
Island  Aves.  intersect.  In  the  centre  of  this  Circle  is  the 
equestrian  bronze  monument,  heroic  size,  to  Gen.  John  A. 
Logan.     It  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $65,000,  of  which  $15,000 


222  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

was  given  by  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  Tennessee,  and  the 
balance  by  Congress.     (Franklin  Simmons,  sculptor.) 

The  statue  surmounts  a  massive  and  highly  ornamental  bronze 
pedestal,  resting  on  a  base  of  pink  granite.  At  the  N.  and  S.  ends  of 
the  pedestal  are  two  bronze  female  figures,  symbolizing  respectively 
America  in  War  and  in  Peace.  On  the  sides  of  the  pedestal  are  two 
large  groups  in  relief  representing:  (W.  side)  General  Logan  presiding 
at  a  Council  of  War;  (E.  side)  Vice-President  Logan  taking  Oath  of 
Office. 

North  of  Iowa  Circle,  No.  1503  Vermont  Ave.,  was  the 
home  of  Norman  J.  Column,  the  first  Secretary  of  Agriculture. 

North  of  this  point  the  Avenue  is  occupied  largely  by 
negroes,  and  offers  nothing  of  interest  to  the  tourist. 

b.     Connecticut  Avenue 

Connecticut  Avenue,  running  N.  N.  W.  from  Lafayette 
Square,  measures,  inclusive  of  its  new  extension  to  Chevy 
Chase  Circle  at  the  District  Line,  approximately  five  miles. 
The  lower  section  has  been  spoiled  for  residential  purposes 
by  the  encroachment  of  retail  business,  and  the  squares 
immediately.  N.  of  K  St.  constitute  Washington's  principal 
"Automobile  Row."  North  from  Dupont  Circle,  however,  the 
Avenue  passes  through  the  heart  of  the  newer  residential 
section,  where  may  be  seen  many  of  the  finest  dwellings 
and  apartment  houses  in  the  city. 

The  N.  E.  cor.  of  Connecticut  Ave.  and  H  .St.  is  occu- 
pied by  the  site  of  the  old  Corcoran  Mansion,  lately  acquired 
by  the  National  Chamber  of  Commerce  (p.  191).  Immediately 
adjoining  on  N.,  No.  815  (S.  E.  cor.  of  I  St.),  is  the 
Rochambcau,  one  of  the  largest  of  Washington's  apartment 
houses.  Here,  from  time  to  time,  have  been  housed  a  number 
of  the  South  American  Legations. 

At  the  intersection  of  the  Avenue  with  17th  St.,  between 
I  and  K  Sts.,  is  Farragut  Square,  containing  a  colossal 
bronze  statue  of  Admiral  Daxid  Glasgow  Farragut,  modeled 
by  Mrs.  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie,  and  cast  at  thq  Washington 
Navy  Yard,  from  metal  taken  from  Farragut's  flag-ship,  the 
Hartford.  The  standing  figure,  ten  feet  in  height  and  sur- 
mounting a  twenty-foot  granite  pedestal,  represents  Farragut 
in  naval  uniform  with  a  telescope,  watching  the  enemy's 
movements.     It  was,  unveiled  in   1881. 

No.  1015  Connecticut  Ave.  has  been  successively  the 
home  of  the  Legations  of  Belgium,  Austria-Hungary,  Italy 
and  Costa  Rica. 

At  L  St.  and  Connecticut  Ave.  (E.  side)  is  Stoneleigh 
Court,  another  of  the  most  important  apartment  houses, 
which,   from  time  to  time,  has  housed  a  number  of    foreign 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL    STREETS  223 

Legations,  including  (1922)  Portugal  and  Nicaragua;  here 
also  was  the  home  of  James  Wilson,  late  Secretary  of  Agri- 
culture. 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Connecticut  Ave.  and  De  Salles  St. 
is  the  Grafton  Hotel  (p.  5). 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  M  St.  and  Connecticut  Ave.  is  The 
Connecticut,  an  apartment  house  in  which  Justice  Joseph 
McKenna,  of  the  U.  S.  Supreme  Court,  resides. 

Connecticut  Ave.  intersects  18th  St.,  between  M  and  N 
Sts.,  forming  two  small  triangular  parks.  In  the  S.  triangle 
is  a  monument  to  the  poet  Henry  W.  Longfellow,  consisting 
of  a  seated  bronze  figure,  heroic  size,  clad  in  Academic  gown, 
and  surmounting  a  pedestal  of  polished  pink  granite.  It  was 
the  gift  of  the  Longfellow  National  Memorial  Association, 
and  was  unveiled  in  1909.     William  Couper,  sculptor. 

In  the  N.  triangle  is  a  statue  of  John  Witherspoon 
(1722-94),  a  Scottish-American  Presbyterian  minister,  and 
once  President  of  Princeton  University.  He  was  the  only 
clergyman  among  the  Signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence. The  statue  was  presented  in  1909  by  the  Wither- 
spoon Memorial  Association.     William  Couper,  sculptor. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  pedestal  is  the  following  quotation  from 
Witherspoon's   utterances: 

"For  my  own  part,  of  property  I  have  some,  of  reputation  more. 
That  reputation  is  staked,  that  property  is  pledged  on  the  issue  of  this 
contest;  and  although  these  gray  hairs  must  soon  descend  into  the 
sepulchre,  I  would  infinitely  rather  that  they  descend  thither  by  the 
hand  of  the  executioner  than  desert  at  this  crisis  the  sacred  cause  of 
my    country." 

The  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  Covenant,  at  the  S.  E. 
cor.  of  N  and  18th  Sts.,  directly  faces  the  Witherspoon 
monument.  Owing  to  a  lack  of  any  Presbyterian  church  con- 
veniently adjacent  to  the  newer  residential  section,  this  church 
was  organized  by  a  group  of  prominent  men  including  Matthew 
Gait,  William  Walter  Phelps  and  James  G.  Blaine. 

The  church  edifice  was  approaching  completion  in  1889,  when  one 
night  the  tall  white  tower  crumbled  to  the  earth,  destroying  a  large  part 
of  the  body  of  the  church,  and  postponing  the  completion  for  many 
months. 

Two  of  the  windows  in  this  church  are  memorials  given  by  Mrs. 
Reed,  sister  of  the  late  Admiral  Dahlgren.  They  represent:  1.  The 
Annunciation;  2.  The  Adoration  of  Magdalen. 

President  Benjamin  Harrison  attended   service   in   this   church. 

The  British  Embassy  (No.  1300)  stands  directly  W.  of 
the  Church  of  the  Covenant,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Connecticut 
Ave.  and  N  St.,  running  back  to  19th  St.  The  visitor  cannot 
fail  to  recognize  over  the  entrance  doorway  the  familiar 
British  crest,  in  bronze,  of  the  Lion  and  the  Unicorn.    Here, 


224  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

during   his    term    of    office,    resided   the    Hon.    James    Bryce, 
author  of  "The  American  Commonwealth." 

This  was  the  first  of  the  foreign  Embassies  and  Legations  to  build 
and  own  a  permanent  residence  in  Washington.  It  dates  from  the  late 
70's.  The  German  Embassy,  No.  1423-37  Massachusetts  Ave.,  was  the 
next  to  follow  suit. 

No.  1331  Connecticut  Ave.  is  the  home  of  Alexande^ 
Graham  Bell,  the  inventor  of  the  telephone.  His  father, 
Dr.  Alexander  Melville  Bell,  founder  of  the  Volta  Bureau 
(p-  475) »  died  in  this  house.  No.  1339  is  now  (1922)  the 
Legation  of  the  Serbs,  Croats  and  Slovenes. 

At  intersection  of  Connecticut  Ave.  with  P  and  18th  Sts., 
Massachusetts  and  New  Hampshire  Aves.  is  Dupont  Circle, 
named  after  Admiral  Samuel  Francis  Dupont  (1803-1865).  In 
centre  is  a  Memorial  Fountain  (Daniel  Chester  French,  sculp- 
tor; Henry  Bacon,  arch.),  replacing  former  statue  of  the 
Admiral   (by  Launt  Thompson) ,  now  in  Delaware. 

At  the  intersection  of  Connecticut  Ave.  and  California 
St.,  in  a  small  triangular  park,  stands,  a  monument  to  Gen. 
George  B.  McClellan  (1826-88),  the  joint  gift  of  Congress 
and  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac,  dedicated  1907. 
Frederick  MacMonnies,  sculptor. 

Directly  W.  of  thei  McClellan  monument  stands  The  Highlands,  an 
apartment  house,  designed  by  Arthur  B.  Heaton,  which  has  housed, 
among  others,  the   Guatemala  and  Panama   Legations. 

At  No.  1800  Connecticut  Ave.,  cor.  of  S  St.,  is  now 
(7922)  the  Netherlands  Legation;  and  a  little  t^ond,  at  No. 
1838,  is  the  Greek  Legation. 

West  of  Connecticut  Ave.,  near  the  cor.  of  S  St.  and 
Phelps  Place,  is  the  site  of  the  historic  estate  of  Kalorama, 
once  the  home  of  the  poet  and  diplomat,  Joel  Barlow.  Count 
Rumford   and   Robert   Fulton  were  both  visitors  here. 

In!  a  barn  baak  of  the  house  Fulton  is  said  to  have  madq  his  first 
steamboat  in  1806,  local  joiners  and  blacksmiths  doing  the  work.  The 
boat  was  launched  in  the  mill-pond  of  Rock  Creek  (to  which  the  estate 
then  extended)  and  the  experiment  was  pronounced  a  success  a  year 
before  the  launching  of  the  Clermont  on  the  Hudson. 

Kalorama  (t.  e.,  "Beautiful  View")  .  was  a  forty-acre  tract  lying 
between  what  is  now  Connecticut  Ave.  and  Rock  Creek,  and  forming 
part  of  the  old  Holmead  estate.  The  historic  mansion,  standing  ap- 
proximately on  the  site  of  the  William  A.  Mearn's  house,  was  erected 
about  1750,  and  its  foundation  walls,  built,  according  to  tradition,  of 
English  brick,  were  so  thick  and  substantial  that  they  gave  promise 
of  lasting  for  centuries.  In  1794  this  Holmead  Mansion,  including 
the  forty-acre  tract,  was  bought  by  one  Gustavus  Scott,  of  Maryland, 
and  shortly  afterwards  passed  into  the  possession  of  William  Augustine 
Washington,  who  remodeled  the  house  and  added  a  spacious  east  wing, 
containing  drawing-rooms  and  a  banquet  hall.  He  had  intended  to 
make  it  a  permanent  home,  but  succumbed  to  the  temptation  of  a 
$14,000  offer  made  by  Joel  Barlow,  to  whom  he  conveyed  the  property 
in    1807.      Once    again    the    Mansion    was    extensively    remodeled    under 


OTHER    RESIDENTIAL    STREETS  2*5 

the  joint  advice  of  Latrobe  and  Robert  Fulton,  the  inventor,  who  was 
a  close  personal  friend  of  Barlow.  The  grounds  were  laid  rjuti  anew, 
and  there  were  erected  a  pretty  Greek  lodge,  designed  by  Latrobe  after 
an  Ionian  Temple,  and  a  summer-house,  designed  by  Fulton,  which 
stood  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  at  the  present  intersection  of  24th  and 
U  Sts.  The  family  mausoleum  (where  Commodore  Decatur  found  a 
temporary  resting  place)  was  situated  in  a  grove  at  what  is  now  the 
intersection   of   Florida  and    Massachusetts   Aves. 

When  Barlow  was  appointed  Minister  to  France,  in  181 1,  the 
house  was  leased  to  the  French  Minister  Serurier.  Barlow  never  re- 
turned home.  lie  died  in  1812  while  following  the  fortunes  of 
Napoleon,  and  was  buried  in  Zarnivica,  Poland.  Although  almost 
forgotten  now,  Barlow  in  his  time  was  recognized  as  America's  greatest 
poet,  and  his  Coiumbiad,  dedicated  to  Fulton,  was  regarded  as  a  great 
National  epic. 

Kalorama  was  occupied  by  Barlow's  widow  until  her  death  in 
18 1 8,  after  which  it  became  the  property  of  her  brother-in-law,  George 
Bonford,  who  for  thirty  years  worthily  supported  its  traditions  as  a 
centre  of  hospitality  and  fashionable  life.  After  many  vicissitudes  the 
Mansion  was  demolished  in  1889,  and  the  estate  cut  up  into  city 
blocks.  Today  nothing  remains  as  a  landmark  excepting  the  two 
names,  Kalorama  Road  and  Decatur  St.,  marking  approximately  the 
northern   and  southern   limits   of   Kalorama. 

Adjacent  on  S  St.,  No.  2040,  is  now  (1922)  the  Czecho- 
slowkian  Legation.  r. 

Four  blocks  N.  of  S  St.,  Connecticut  Ave.  intersects 
I  Wyoming  Ave.  East  on  Wyoming  Ave.,  No.  185 1,  was  the 
residence  of  Josephus  Daniels  while  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 
North  from  here  Connecticut  Ave.  curves  slightly  west- 
ward, between  a  series  of  apartment  houses,  to  the  eastern 
bank  of  Rock  Creek.  The  Connecticut  Ave.  bridge,  com- 
I  pleted  in  1906,  was  designed  by  George  S.  Morrison,  under 
supervision  of  Edward  P.  Casey,  consulting  architect.  At 
each  end  of  the  bridge  are  a  pair  of  Lions,  moulded  in  con- 
crete, which  critics  have  described  as  "presumably  modeled 
from  an  extremely  old  lion,  dragged  from  his  cage  in  a 
dying  condition."  The  sculptor  has  wisely  refrained  from 
attaching  his  signature.  The  rather  fine  series  of  bronze 
standards  which  support  the  electric  lamps,  at  the  approach 
and  throughout  the  bridge,  were  designed  by  the  /.  L.  Mott 
Co.,  Nezv  York. 

(For  Connecticut  Ave.  Extended  see  p.  440) 

c.     Massachusetts  Avenue 

^Massachusetts  Avenue  starts  opposite  the  District  Alms 
House  at  19th  and  D  .Sts.  S.  E..  and  runs  in  a  northwesterly 
direction  parallel  to  and  about  half  a  mile  N.  of  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  to  23d  and  R  Sts.  N.  W.,  from  which  point  its  extension 
>j  runs  due  N.  W.  to  the  District  boundary.  Its  course  is  inter- 
rupted by  Lincoln  Sq.  (p.  366),  Stanton  Sq.  (p.  366),  the 
Union  Station  Plaza  (p.  358),  Mt.  Vernon  Sq.  (p..  226),  Thomas 


226  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Circle    (p.    220)    Scott    Circle    (p.    200)    and   Dupont   Circle 
(p.  224).     Total  length  about  eight  miles. 

Until  recently  Massachusetts  Ave.,  between  9th  St.  and 
Rock  Creek,  had  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  been  a  leading 
residential  street,  especially  favored  by  the  foreign  Diplomatic 
Corps.  The  steady  trend  of  fashionable  life  northward  has 
already  materially  changed  the  aspect  of  the  Avenue,  and 
there  are  a  notable  number  of  vacant  houses.^  The  German 
Embassy  still  remains  here  in  lonesome  isolation. 

Although  its  prestige  is  already  waning,  Massachusetts  Ave.  is  one 
of  the  comparatively  modern  streets.  It  is  interesting  to  read  the  im- 
pressions of  the  English  novelist,  Anthony  Trollope,  recorded  as  late 
as  1862: 

"Massachusetts  Ave.  runs  the  whole  length  of  the  city,  and  is 
inserted  in  the  maps  as  a  full-grown  street  about  four  miles  in  length. 
Go  there,  and  you  will  find  yourself  not  only  ou*  of  town  away  among 
the  fields,  but  you  will  find  yourself  beyond  the  fields  in  an  uncultivated, 
unchained  wilderness.  Tucking  your  trousers  up  to  your  knees,  you 
will  wade  through  the  bogs;  you  will  lose  yourself  among  rude  hillocks; 
you  will  be  out  of  reach  of  humanity." 

There  is  little  of  interest  on  the  Avenue  between  North 
Capitol  and  9th  Sts.  Between  'North  Capitol  and  1st  Sts., 
on  N.  side  is  the  Hotel  Harris  (p.  4).  Where  the  Avenue 
intersects  H  and  3d  Sts.,  and  again  at  I  and  6th  Sts.,  are 
two  small  triangular  parks. 

The  Public  Library  of  the  District  of  Columbia  (PI. 
Ill — E-IV — No.  73)  occupies  the  cenlter  of  .Mlt.  Vernon 
Square,  at  the  intersection  of  Massachusetts  and  New  York 
Aves.  The  white  marble  building,  on  the  classic  order,  was 
the  gift  of  the  late  Andrew  Carnegie,  and  was  constructed 
under  the  supervision  of  Bernard  R.  Green,  superintendent  of 
construction  for  the  Library  of  Congress. 

History.  The  establishment  of  the  Public  Library  was  largely 
due  to  the  efforts  of  Theodore  W.  Noyes,  editor  of  the  Evening  Star, 
who;  has  been  president  of  the  Library's  board  of  trustees  ever  since  its 
establishment.  The  library  was  created  by  the  Act  of  June  3,  1896; 
and  a  nucleus  of  12,4121  volumfes  was  provided  by  the  Washington  City 
Free  Library,  a  voluntary  institution  supported  by  private  contributions, 
which  turned  over  its  collection  when  an  appropriation  for  opening  the 
new  library  was  made  in  1898.  The  central  library  building,  formally 
dedicated  Jan.  7,  1903,  cost  $375,000.  Mr.  Carnegie  also  offered  $350,000 
(or  more  if  needed)  for  branch  library  buildings,  the  first  of  which, 
the  Takoma  Park  Branch,  was  accepted  by  permission  of  Congress,  and 
opened  Nov.,  191 1;  the  second,  the  Southeastern  Branch,  costing  $67,000, 
will  be  ready  late  in   1922;  located  7th  St.   &  Penn.  Ave.  S»  E. 

Owing  to  the  lack  of  a  full  system  of  branches,  the  Public  Library 
utilizes  more  than  150  other  agencies  for  the  distribution  of  books, 
including  various  deposit  stations  in  social  settlements;  in  the  central 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  building;  the  District  Building;  seven  public  high-school 
libraries;  85  graded  schools,  etc.  It  circulates  more  than  1,000,000 
volumes  annually.  The  library  is  supported  almost  wholly  from  Con- 
gressional appropriations.  It  hasj  had  but  two  chief  librarians:  Weston 
Flint,   until  1904,  and  since  then   George   F.   Bowerman. 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL    STREETS  227 

Resources.  Approximately  250,000  volumes;  also  a  large  collection 
of  newspaper  and  magazine  cuttings,  comprising  very  useful  material, 
especially  that  relating  to  the  history  of  Washington;  about  60,000 
unmounted  pictures  and   135  maps  relating  to)  the   District  of  Columbia. 

A  portrait  of  Theodore  W.  Noyes,  president  of  the  Board  of 
trustees,  has  recently  been  hung  in  the  main  delivery  room.  Richaru' 
S.  Meriman,  artist. 

At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Massachusetts  Ave.  and  9th  St., 
diagonally  facing  the  Sq.,  stands  the  new  home  of  the 
American  Federation  of  Labor  (founded  1881).  It  is  a 
seven-story  structure  of  limestone,  terra-cotta  and  buff  brick, 
resting  upon  a  granite  foundation.  (Milburn,  Heister  &  Co., 
architects.)  The  cornerstone  bears  the  inscription,  "This  edi- 
fice erected  for  service  in  the  cause  of  Labor — Justice — 
^Freedom — Humanity,  1915-1916."  On  the  9th  St.  facade  is 
the  Seal  of  the  Society  in  terra-cotta,  showing  the  globe 
with  two  hands  clasped  across  the  sea,  with  the  motto, 
Labor  omnia  vincit.  The  President  of  this  organization  is 
Samuel  Gompers. 

The  American  Federation  of  Labor,  now  36  years  old,  has  in  its 
affiliations  86  National  and  International  Trade  Unions,  which  have  in 
turn  upward  of  30,000  local  branches,  with  a  membership  of  approxi- 
mately 1,882,500;  also  489  Federal  local  Unions  with  23,763  members. 

Of  course  the  so-called  Labor  Movement  in  the  United  States  goes 
far  back  of  1881.  Some  of  the  Unions  are  quite  old^  as,  for  instance, 
the  International  Typographical  Union  of  Washington,  D.  C,  which 
dates  from  1852.  Some  of  the  local  Trade  Unions  which  make  up  the 
National  organizations  affiliated  with  the  Federation,  date  back  more 
than  a  century.  For  example,  the  Washington  (D.  C.)  Printer's  Union 
was  organized  in   1815. 

Opposite  the  Federation  building,  at  the  angle  between 
Massachusetts  Ave.  and  K.  St.,  stands  the  National  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church  South,  erected  at  a  cost  of  approximately 
$250,000. 

The  Church  of  the  Ascension,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of 
Massachusetts  Ave.  and  12th  St.,  dates  from  1874.  It  is  on 
the  order  of  early  English  decorated  Gothic,  of  gray  lime- 
stone, with  brownstone  trim. 

History.  The  church  was  organized  in  1844,  in  a  small  school- 
house  at  the  corner  of  9th  and  H  Sts.  The  first  church  edifice  was 
erected  on  H  St.,  between  9th  and  10th  Sts.,  on  grounds  now  occupied 
by  the  Medical  Department  of  Georgetown  University,  and  was  due 
chiefly  to  the  generosity  of  Mrs.  John  Van  Ness  (Marcia  Burnes). 
The  first  rector  was  Dr.  Pinckney  (subsequently  P.  E.  Bishop  of  Mary- 
land, and  nephew  of  the  famous  Maryland  lawyer,  William  Pinckney). 
He  was  a  life-long  friend  of  William  W.  Corcoran,  who  was  a  member 
of  the  Vestry,  and  who  subsequently  erected  the  monument  in  memory 
of  Dr.  Pinckney  in  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (p.  479).  During  the  War  of 
the  Rebellion,  Dr.  Pinckney,  being  a  Southern  sympathizer,  gave 
offence  to  the  Government  by  refusing  to  pray  for  northern  victory. 
Consequently  he  found  himself  one  Sunday  debarred  from  entering  his 
church  by  a  guard  standing  with  fixed  bayonets.  Dr.  Pinckney  subse- 
quently pleaded  that  his  refusal  to  offer  such  prayers  was  based  upon  a 


2i8  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

church  law  prohihiting  any  addition  to  or  subtraction  from  the  prescribed 
service  of  the  church;  and  in  this  he  was  sustained  by  the  House  of 
Bishops. 

No.  131 1,  former  home  of  Mr.  E.  Francis  Riggs,  banker  (for  many 
years  partner  of  W.  W.  Corcoran).  No.  13 12,  Academy  of  the  Holy 
Cross  No  1 3 14,  former  home  of  Mr  Justice  Morris  of  the  District 
Supreme  Court  No.  13 18,  former  home  of  J.  Stanley-Brown,  Secretary 
to  President  Garfield,  and  his  wife,  Mollie  Garfield.  No.  1326,  former 
residence  of  Robert  T.  Lincoln,  Secretary,  of  War  under  Arthur. 

In  Thomas  Circle,  situated  at  the  intersection  of  Massa- 
chusetts and  Vermont  Aves.  and  14th  St.,  is  a  notable  equestrian 
bronze  *statue,  heroic  size,  of  Maj. -General  George  H. 
Thomas  (horn  1816),  by  /.  Q.  A.  Ward.  The  statue  was 
erected  in  1879  by  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumber- 
land, at  a  cost  of  $40,000.  It  is  supported  by  a  pedestal  of 
Virginia  granite  16  ft.  high,  which  was  the  gift  of  Congress, 
and  cost  $25,000. 

No.  1406  Massachusetts  Ave.  is  the  present  Venezuelan 
Legation. 

No.  1407  Massachusetts  Ave.  was  the  residence  of  the  late  Rt.  Rev. 
Henry  Y.  Satterlee,  the  first  Protestant  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Washington. 
No.  1413,  former  residence  of  Thomas  F.  Bayard,  Secretary  of  State, 
and  first  Ambassador  to  Great  Britain.  Senators  William  B.  Allison 
and  Shelby  M.  Cullum  also  once  resided  here.  No.  1421,  former  resi- 
dence of  S  H.  Kaufman,  proprietor  of  the  Evening  Star.  No.  141 5, 
former  residence  of  Samuel  F.  Miller,  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court 
during  1862-90.  Nos.  1423-37,  the  German  Embassy.  No.  1445,  former 
residence  of  the  late  Spencer  F.  Baird,  Secretary  of  the  Smithsonian 
Institution.  No.  1500,  now  occupied  by  ex- Vice-President  Levi  P. 
Morton,  was  former  residence  of  Elihu  Root  while  Secretary  of  State. 
No.  1515,  former  residence  of  George  Shiras,  Justice  of  the  Supreme 
Court  during   1892-1903. 

The  Louise  Home  occupies  the  block  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Avenue, 
between  15th  and  16th  Sts.  It  was  founded  by  William  W.  Corcoran 
as  a  Home  for  aged  gentlewomen  who  have  met  with  reverses,  and  was 
named  in  memory  of  his  wife  (Louise  Morris)  and  his  daughter  Louise, 
who   married   Hon.   George   Custis   of  Louisiana. 

_  The  Louise  Home,  consisting  of  three  stories  and  a  mansard,  was 
designed  by  G.  E.  Lind,  of  Baltimore.  It  contains  a  portrait  of  Mrs. 
Ogle   Tayloe,   by   Daniel  Huntington. 

At  Scott  Circle  (p.  200)  Massachusetts  Ave.  intersects  Rhode 
Island  Ave.,  N  and   16th  Sts. 

No.  1601  Massachusetts  Ave.  was  the  home  of  the  late  William 
Windham  when  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  No.  1603,  former  home  of 
the  late  Stilson  Hutchins,  for  many  years  proprietor  of  the  Washington 
Post.  No.  162 1,  former  home  of  Ainsworth  R.  Spofford,  for  thirty-three 
years  Librarian  of  the  Congressional  Library.  No.  1631  is  nofwi  (1922) 
the  Legation  of  the  Dominican  Republic. 

Southwest<  corner;  of  17th  St.,  light  stone  building,  is  the  old  home 
of  Beriah  Wilkins,  editor  and  proprietor  of  the  Washington  Post. 
Opposite  No.  1 70 1,  residence  of  Redfield  Proctor  when  Secretary  of 
War;  later  the  home  of  Bishop  Hearst.  Na.  1707  is,  now  (1922)  the 
Bolivian  Legation.  No.  i7o"8,  first  Washington  home  of  Thomas'  Nelson 
Page  (1894-97).  No.  1709,  former  home  of  William  Gibbs  McAdoo, 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  No.  1714,  formerly  occupied  (about  1886) 
by  the  Legation  of  Sweden  and  Norway.  No.  1715,  the  present  Greek 
Legation.  No.  1730,  former  Spanish  Legation  (about  1890).  No.  1735, 
home  of   William  Crozier,  Brig-General  and   Chief  of  Ordnance. 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL   STREETS  221) 

The  Force  Public  School,  Nos.  1738-44,  a  red  brick  struc- 
ture on  the  S.  side  of  the  Ave.,  is  one  of  the  most  notable 
primary  schools  in  Washington  because  of  the  many  sons  of 
famous  men  who  have  attended  it.  The  list  includes :  James 
Garfield,  grandson  of  President  Garfield  ;  Theodore,  Archibald 
and  Quentin  Roosevelt,  sons  of  President  Roosevelt;  and 
Charles  Taft,  son  of  ex-President  (now  Chief  Justice)  Taft. 
In  the  school  yard  is  a  memorial  tree  planted  for  Quentin 
Roosevelt,  who  died  in  the  Air  Service  in  France  during  the 
World  War. 

No.  1765,  for  twenty-five  years  the  Washington  home  of  Senator 
Henry  Cabot  Lodge.  No.  1770,  the  later  home  (from  1890  onward)  of 
Mrs.  Frances  Hodgson  Burnett.  No.  1780,  now  occupied  (1922)  by 
the  Belgian  Embassy. 

Northeast  corner  of  18th  St.:  here  for  several  years  was  the 
Spanish  Legation,  down  to  the  outbreak  of  the  War  in  1898.  Diagonally 
opposite,  No.  1800  Massachusetts  Ave.,  is  the  former  home  of  the  late 
Chief  Justice  Melville  W.  Fuller.  It  was  subsequently  occupied  by 
Senator  Charles  W.  Fairbanks;  and  in  19 10  was  the  Argentine  Legation. 

At  19th  and  P  Sts.,  where  Massachusetts,  Connecticut 
and  New  Hampshire  Aves,  intersect,  is  Dupont  Circle  (p.  224 ) . 

No.  1 91 5  Massachusetts  Ave.  is  the  former  residence  of  Senatoi 
William  A.  Clark  of  Montana.  No.  2010,  residence  of  Grace  Denio 
Litchfield,  the  novelist.  No.  201 1,  until  19 16  the  Belgian  Legation. 
No.  2013,  former  residence  of  the  late  Charles  M.  Ffoulke,  whose  col- 
lection of  tapestries  was  ranked  as  one  of  the  finest  private  collections 
in  the  world.  No.  2019  is  the  residence  of  Supreme  Court  Justice 
Mahlon    Pitney. 

Southeast  corner  of  21st  St.,  one  of  Washington's  finest  private 
residences,  built  by  the  late  Thomas  F.  Walsh,  and  said  to  have  cost 
$3,000,000.  No.  21 11,  former  home  of  ex-Senator  Edmonds  of  Vermont. 
It  was  occupied  from  1895  onward  by  Mrs.  U.  S.  Grant  and  her 
daughter,  Mrs.  Algernon  Sartoris  (Nellie  Grant).  No.  21 18,  residence 
of  Larz  Anderson,  former  Minister  to  Japan.  No.  221 1,  residence  of 
Mrs.  Sheridan,  widow  of  General  Philip  Sheridan. 

At  23d  and  R  Sts.  the  Avenue  reaches  Sheridan  Circle. 
Here  stands  the  equestrian  statue  of  General  Philip  Sheridan, 
by  Gutzon  Borglum,  erected  by  Congress  in  1909,  at  a  cost 
of  $60,0000. 

One  square  W.  on  Q  St.  we  reach  the  new  *Roek  Creek 
i  Bridge  (1916),  designed  jointly  by  Glenn  Brown  and  his  son 
Bedford  Brown.  It  is  a  curved  structure,  somewhat  on  the 
fashion  of  a  Roman  Aqueduct,  but  is  built  exclusively  rf 
American  materials  and  ornamented  with  American  symbols. 
The  corbels  start  with  Indian  heads,  modeled  after  the  life- 
mask  of  "Kicking  Bear,"  now  in  the  'National  Museum.  Each 
end  of  the  bridge  is  flanked  by  a  pair  of  American  Bison 
(A.  Phimister  Proctor,  sculptor). 

(For  Massachusetts  Avenue  Extended  see  p.  442). 


23o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

d.     The  Numbered  Streets  East  of  Sixteenth  Street 

Fifteenth  Street  north  from  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 
The  three  blocks  on  15th  St.,  from  the  point  where  Penn- 
sylvania Ave.  is  interrupted  by  trie  Executive  Grounds,  to 
its  resumption  where  New  York  Ave.  diverges  to  the  N.  E., 
are  occupied  on  L.  by  the  Treasury  Building  (p.  122).  Oppo- 
site, from  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  F  St.,  is  the  new  Wash- 
ington Hotel  (p.  3).  At  No.  613  15th  St.  is  the  National 
Metropolitan  Bank,  a  white  marble  building  on  the  classic 
order,  designed  by  B.  Stanley  Simmons.  This,  the  second 
oldest  banking  institution  in  Washington,  was  organized  in 
1814  as  the  Bank  of  the  Metropolis.  Its  first  President  was 
John  )P.  Van  GNTessi  (p.  170). 

At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  15th  and  G  Sts.,  on  the  site  of  the 
old  Riggs  House,  stands  the  Riggs  Office  Building,  an  eight- 
story  structure,  with  a  frontage  of  116  and  178  ft.  respec 
tively,  designed  by  /.  H.  de  Sib  our.  It  contains  Keith's 
Theatre  (p.  25),  the  auditorium  of  which  rises  to  the  sixth 
floor  level. 

The  upper  floor  and  roof  are  occupied  by  the  National 
Press  Club,  which,  from  an  original  membership  of  fifty  men 
organized  in  1908,  now  has  upward  of  a  thousand  members, 
including  some  of  the  most  prominent  men  in  the  country, 
such  as:  the  President  of  the  United  States,  several  Cabinet 
members  and  the  Governors  of  two  states,  who  prior  to  hold- 
ing office  had  joined  the  club  as  writers,  reporters  or  pub- 
lishers. 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  15th  St.  and  New  York  Ave.  is  the 
National  Savings  and  Trust  Company,  the  oldest  Savings 
Bank  in  the  city.  Opposite,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  15th  St. 
and  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  the  American  Surety  and  Trust 
Company  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Bank  of  the  United 
States. 

The  intersection  of  15th  and  H  Sts.  is  marked  by  some  of 
the  finest  office  buildings  in  Washington.  At  the  S.  E.  cor. 
stands  the  Woodward  Building.  At  the  S.  W.  cor.  is  the 
Union  Trust  Company  {Wood,  Bonn  and  Deming,  archi- 
tects).    At  the  N.  E.  cor.  is  the  Southern  Building. 

The  N.  W.  cor.  is  occupied  by  the  Hotel  Shoreham 
(p.  3),  one  of  Washington's  leading  ihotels,  occupying  the 
site  of  a  historic  dwelling,  originally  built  for  Samuel  Har- 
rison Smith  of  the  National  Intelligencer,  and  afterwards 
owned  by  Representative  Samuel  Hopper  and  temporarily 
occupied  by  Gen.  George  B.  McClellan  when  he  was  restored 
to  the  Command  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac  by  Lincoln  in 
1862. 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL   STREETS  231 

No.  817  15th  St.  was  once  the  home  of  Gen.  William 
T.  Sherman.  No.  821  was  the  home  of  James  G.  Blaine, 
during  the  Hayes  administration. 

Between  I  and  K  Sts.,  15th  St.  passes  McPherson  Square, 
crossing  Vermont  Ave.;  for  historic  houses  at  intersection 
with  I  and  K  Sts.  respectively,  see  p.  220. 

On  the  W.  side  of  15th  St.,  between  L  and  M  Sts.,  stands 
St.  Augustine's  Church,  the  largest  R.  C.  colored  church  in 
the  United  States,  founded  in  1863.  The  present  building, 
dedicated  in  1874,  contains  some  interesting  windows.  Oppo- 
site, at  No.  1 147,  is  the  Episcopal  Eye,  Ear  and  Throat 
Hospital. 

Grace  Reformed  Church,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  15th  and 
I  Q  Sts.,  was  organized  in  1877,  and  was  attended  by  Theodore 
Roosevelt  throughout  the  years  of  his  official  life  in  Wash- 
ington. The  present  structure,  erected  in  1901,  is  of  gray 
limestone,  on  the  Gothic  order.  Above  the  main  doorway 
are  carved  the  shields  of  Zurich  and  Geneva.  The  church 
contains    some   excellent    windows,    best    seen    by   afternoon 

•  light.    The  Roosevelt  pew  is  No.  5,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
(    central  aisle. 

There  is  nothing  of  interest  to  the  casual  visitor  N.  of 

*  this  point. 

Fourteenth  Street  north  from  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 
/  On  W.  side,  from  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  F  St.,  is  the  New 
Willard  Hotel  (p.  3).  Opposite,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  F  St.,  is 
the  Ebbitt  House  (p.  3).  Just  above  G  St.,  14th  St.  inter- 
sects New  York  Ave.  East  on  H  St.,  No.  1333,  is  the  George 
Washington  Hospital. 

One  block  E.,  at  the  angle  where  New  York  Ave.  inter- 
sects H  St.,  stands  the  New  York  Avenue  Presbyterian 
Church,  a  sombre  structure  of  red  brick  with  brownstone 
trim.  The  main  entrance,  facing  E.  toward  the  apex  of 
the  triangle,  is  adorned  with  a  Roman-Corinthian  portico 
and  pediment,  and  is  reached  by  incongruous  curving  iron 
stairways. 

This  church  has  been  attended  by  many  Presidents,  including  John 

1    CJuincy    Adams,    Andrew    Jackson,    W.    H.    Harrison,    Millard    Fillmore, 

Franklin   Pierce,  James  Buchanan,  Abraham  Lincoln,  Andrew  Johnson, 

Benjamin    Harrison     (before    his    Presidency) ;    also    Associate    Justice 

Harlan. 

At  the  opposite  apex   to  the   E.,   at   13th   St.  and   New 
York   Ave.,    stands   the   Masonic    Temple,   a   gray   limestone 
I  structure,    designed   by    Wood,  Donn   and  Deming.     It   con- 
tains    a     large     auditorium     used     at     present     mainly     for 
ii.oving  pictures;  also  the  rooms  of  the  Grand  Lodge  Library 


232  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

and  the  George  Washington  University  Law  Library. 
On  the  N.  side  of  H  St ,  facing  the  New  York  Avenue 
Presbyterian  Church,  at  No.  1335'  H  St.,  stands  the  George 
Washington  Hospital.  No.  1325  is  the  site  of  the  former 
home  of  the  widow  of  Alexander  Hamilton,  first  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury. 

North  on  14th  St.  we  reach,  at  I  St.  (on  E.),  Franklin 
Park,  occupying  the  entire  square  bounded  by  I  and  K, 
14th  and  15th  Sts.,  and  comprising  approximately  four  acres. 
Midway,  on  the  14th  St.  side,  stands  a  bronze  statue,  heroic 
size,  of  John  Barry,  Commodore  U.  S.  N.  (1745-1803).  It 
surmounts  a  lofty  white  granite  base,  in  front  of  which,  also 
of  white  granite,  is  a  female  figure  representing  Freedom,  as 
indicated  by  the  symbolic  eagle  and  Liberty  cap  (erected  1914. 
John  J.  Boyle,  sculptor). 

It  is  a  matter  of  history  that  when  the  Indian  tribes  of  this 
vicinity  met  in  Counqil  on  the  peninsula  formed  by  the  Eastern 
Branch  and  the  Potomac  River,  many  a  war-dance  was  celebrated  in 
the  present  Franklin  Park.  In  the  early  years  of  the  history  of 
Washington  it  became  a  truck  garden,  connected  with  the  Van  Ness 
estate  (p.  170).  At  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  it  was  the  site  of 
the  encampment  of  the  12th  New  York  Volunteers,  commanded  by 
Gen.    Daniel    Butterfield. 

Diagonally  opposite  the  Park,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  14th 
and  K  Sts.,  is  the  remodelled  New  Hamilton  Hotel  (p.  5) 
and  at  N.  E.  cor.  the  Franklin  Square  Hotel  (p.  5). 

One  block  N.,  at  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  L.  St.,  formerly  stood 
the  All  Souls'  Unitarian  Church.  The  new  church  edifice  is 
now  in  course  of  erection  at  16th  and  Harvard  Sts.  (p.  203). 

History.  The  First  Unitarian  Church  dates  from  1820, 
when  a  small  congregation  met  in  a  room  over  some  public 
baths  on  C  St.,  between  4^  and  6th  Sts.,  to  listen  to  the 
sermons  of  a  certain  Robert  Little.  In  Nov.,  1821  the  church 
was  organized,  its  founders  including  John  Quincy  Adams, 
John  C.  Calhoun,  the  two  Joseph  Gales,  Sr.  and  Jr.  and 
William  Winston  Seaton  (the  last  two  named  being  propri- 
etor and  editor  of  the  National  Intelligencer,  Washington's 
pioneer  newspaper),  and  Charles  Bulfinch,  the  architect. 
The  first  church  edifice,  designed  by  Bulfinch  and  dedicated 
in  1822,  stood  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  6th  and  D  Sts.,  where 
it  served  its  purpose  for  55  years.  During  this  time  it 
numbered  among  its  pastors  the  Rev.  Edward  Everett  Hale 
(Oct.,  1844  to  March,  1845)  ;  the  Rev.  Moncure  Daniel  Con- 
way (1855-56)  ;  and  the  Rev.  Samuel  Longfellow,  brother 
of  the  poet.  The  Rev.  William  Henry  Channing  was  pastor 
during  the  Civil  War,  and  was  the  first  clergyman  in  Wash- 
ington to   offer  his  church   for  use  as  a  war  hospital.     The 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL    STREETS  233 

offer  was  accepted,  and  in  return  the  congregation  was  given 
the  use  of  the  Senate  Chamber  for  Sunday  services. 

The  old  church  bell,  said  to  be  the  first  in  the  city,  and 
later  transferred  to  the  present  edifice,  was  cast  in  a  foundry 
established  by  Paul  Revere,  near  Boston.  Dr.  Shippen,  one 
of  the  later  pastors,  says : 

"Down  to  1861  this  bell  was  rung  for  public  purposes.  I 
am  informed  that  it  tolled  a  requiem  for  John  Brown  on  the 
day  of  his  death.  Thenceforward  it  was.,  denounced  by  some 
as  an  abolition  bell,  and  in  the  exciting  times  of  1861  its  use 
by  the  city  authorities  was  discontinued/' 

This  earliest  church  was  attended  by  two  Presidents,  John 
Qui^cy  Adams  and  Millard  Fillmore.  The  second  struc- 
ture, dedicated  as  All  Souls',  in  place  of  the  earlier  name  of 
First  Unitarian,  was  attended  for  many  years  by  President 
Taft,  who  before  his  election  occupied  a  rear  seat  near  the 
N.  W.  cor.  The  Presidential  pew  was  No.  27,  3d  pew  on  L. 
of  South  aisle  (the  Sexton  explaining  that  this  change  of  pews 
was  necessary,  "to  keep  the  congregation  from  turning  their 
heads  to  look  at  the  President"). 

At  M  St.,  14th  St.  is  interrupted  by  Thomas  Circle,  where 
Massachusetts  and  Vermont  Ave.  intersect.  In  the  centre  of 
the  Circle  stands  a  monument*  to  Gen.  George  H.  Thomas 
(1816-70).  This  statue,  in  bronze,  of  heroic  size  (19  ft.), 
and  considered  one  of  the  finest  equestrian  statues  in  this 
country,  was  erected  with  great  ceremony  in  1879,  by  the 
Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  (/.  Q.  A.  Ward, 
sculptor).  The  total  cost  was  $65,000,  to  which  the  fore- 
named  Society  contributed  $40,000.  The  balance,  furnished 
by  Congress,  paid  for  the  cost  of  the  pedestal,  including  the 
bronze  ornamental  lamps,  and  insignia  of  the  Army  of  the 
Cumberland. 

General  Thomas  was  a  West  Point  graduate,  who  had  fought  in 
the  Seminole  and  Mexican  Wars,  and  had  been  an  instructor  at  West 
Point.  From  Major  of  Volunteer  Cavalry  he  rose  to  Major-General  in 
the  regular  army,  and  is  remembered  as  the  "Rock  of  Chickamauga," 
and  hero  of  Nashville. 

At  the  N.  apex  of  14th  St.  and  Vermont  Ave.  stands  the 
statue  of  Martin  Luther  (p.  221). 

At  14th  and  N  Sts.  is  the  Lutheran  Eye,  Ear  and  Throat 
Infirmary.  Just  N.,  at  No.  1321,  is  the  Northern  Dispensary 
and  Emergency  Hospital. 

At  14th  and  S  Sts.  is  the  Washington  City  Orphan 
Asylum.  _  Here  during  1866-67  the  State  Department  was 
temporarily  housed,  and  here,  in  1867,  the  purchase  of  Alaska 
was  arranged. 


234  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Beyond  this  point  there  is  nothing  of  interest  to  the 
casual  visitor. 

e.    The  Numbered  Streets  West  of  Sixteenth  Street 

Seventeenth  Street  north  from  Pennsylvania  Ave- 
nue. Passing  the  old  Corcoran  Art  Gallery  (p.  194),  we 
reach,  at  H  St.,  S.  W.  cor.,  the  five-story  club-house  of  the 
Metropolitan  Club,  the  wealthiest  and  most  fashionable  of 
the  social  clubs  in  Washington.  According  to  the  constitu- 
tion it  was  organized  "for  literary,  mutual  improvement  and 
social  purposes."  Diagonally  opposite,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of 
17th  and  H  Sts.,  is  the  Richmond  Hotel  (p.  4.),  where  Sen- 
ator George  F.  Hoar  formerly  lived.  Between  I  and  K  Sts. 
17th  St.  passes  Farragut  Square,  crossing  Connecticut  Ave. 
(p.  222)  ;  for  historic  houses  at  intersection  with  I  and  K  Sts., 
see  pp.  235  and  237. 

North  of  this  point  there  is  little  to  interest  the  tourist. 
At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  P  St.  stands  the  Plymouth  Congrega- 
tional Church.  Just  E.,  No.  1620  P  St.,  is  the  house  in  which 
Prof.  Simon  Newcomb,  America's  greatest  astronomer,  lived 
and  died. 

East  of  1 8th  St.  on  Rhode  Island  Ave.  is  St.  Matthew's, 
one  of  Washington's  leading  R.  C.  churches.  At  the  :S.  W. 
cor.  of  N  St.  is  the  former  residence  of  Justice  Stanley 
Matthews  (served  1881-89).  East  on  N  St.,  No.  1775,  was 
the  residence  of  Elihu  Root,  while  Secretary  of  War,  and 
later  the  home  of  Senator  Chauncey  M.  Depew.  No.  1734 
N  St.  was  formerly  the  Uruguay  Legation. 

West  on  N  St.,  No.  1810,  is  the  house  in  which  Theodore 
Roosevelt  resided  while  Assistant  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 
Just  beyond,  No.  1820  'N  St.,  formerly  housed  the  Swedish 
Legation. 

No.  1323  18th  St.  is  the  residence  of  Robert  Lansing, 
former  Secretary  of  State.  The  house  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of 
P  St.  was  once  the  home  of  former  Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 
Daniel  Manning.  Opposite,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  P  St.,  is  the 
home  of  Miss  Mabel  Thorp  Boardman,  of  world-wide  distinc- 
tion for  her  services  in  behalf  of  the  Red  Cross  Society.  East 
on  P  St.,  No.  1763,  was  the  home  of  Mollie  Elliott  Sewell, 
the  novelist. 

Midway  between  P  and  Q  Sts.,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  18th  and 
Church  Sts.,  is  the  attractive  little  P.  E.  church  of  St. 
Thomas.    It  contains  a  number  of  fine  memorial  windows : 

Over  Altar,  "In  the  beginning  God  created  the  heavens  and  the 
earth,"  Genesis  1,  1  (13  panels).  Nave,  S.  side:  1.  St.  Hilda;  2.  St. 
Aidan  (memorial  window  to  Maj.  E.  K.  Webster,  U.S.A.,  1852-1911); 
3.    St.    Augustine;    4.    Queen   Bertha;    §,    St.    Colomba;   6.   St.    Patrick; 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL   STREETS  230 

7.  St.  Aiban;  8.  Joseph  of  Arimathea.  Nave,  N.  side;  i.  Venerable 
Bede;  2.  St.  Swithin;  3.  Stephen  Langton;  4.  William  Laud;  7-  Queen 
Anne;  8.  Bishop  Seabury.  In  vestibule,  N.  window:  "Many  shall  come 
from  the  East,  (three  panels).  S.  window:  "Thomas  said,  'My  Lord 
and  my  God.'"     St.  John  xx,   28    (three   panels). 

On  the  E.  wall  of  the  N.  transept  is  a  memorial  tablet  to  Archibald 
Grade,  commemorating  his  rescue  from  the  steamship  Titanic,  April 
15th,  1912,  and  also  the  fact  that,  shortly  before  his  death  the  following 
December,  he  "proclaimed  in  this  church  that  his  rescue  was  due  to 
the  power  of  prayer." 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  18th  and  Q  Sts.  is  the  house  in  which 
John  Lee  Carroll,  former  Governor  of  Maryland,  lived  and 
died. 

Midway  between  Q  and  R  Sts.,  on  Corcoran  St.,  No. 
1806,  is  the  Argentine  Embassy  (1922). 

East  on  18th  St.,  at  No.  1759,  is  the  home  of  Thomas 
Nelson  Page,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Italian  Embassy.  No. 
1742  R  St.  is  the  residence  of  Brig.-Gen.  Ernest  A.  Garlington, 
who  commanded  the  Greely  Relief  Expedition  in  1885. 

Half  a  mile  further  N.,  at  the  intersection  of  18th  and 
Columbia  Road,  is  the  site  of  the  ill-fated  Knickerbocker 
Theatre,  which  during  a  severe  blizzard  in  Jan.,  1922,  suddenly 
collapsed  upon  the  audience  during  progress  of  a  performance, 
killing  approximately  100  persons.  A  new  theatre  is  now 
(May,   1922)    in   course  of  erection. 

Nineteenth  Street  North  of  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 
No.  1215  19th  Ct.,  between  M  and  N  Sts.,  is  the  house  in 
which  Theodore  Roosevelt  resided  while  Civil  Service  Com- 
missioner. No.  2001  19th  St.,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  U  St.,  is  the 
Chinese  Legation  (1922).  The  edifice  was  designed  by 
B.  Stanley  Simmons. 

On  the  north-and-south  streets  W.  of  19th  St.  there  is 
little  of  interest  to  the  stranger. 

f.     I  Street 

The  only  lettered  streets  in  the  residential  section  which 
offer  sufficient  attractions  to  the  visitor  to  require  separate 
sections  are  I  and  K  Sts.  Whatever  points  of  interest  are 
to  be  found  in  the  other  lettered  streets  to  the  north  will  be 
found  in  the  chapters  devoted  to  the  nearest  adjacent  ave- 
nues or  numbered  streets. 

Aside  from  the  squares  E.  of  3d  St.  (see  North  Capitol 
St.  Section,  p.  356),  there  is  nothing-  to  interest  the  visitor 
until  we  reach  the  N.E.  cor.  of  I  and  13th  Sts.,  where  the 
Garfield  Apartment  House,  facing  Franklin  Sq.  (p.  237), 
occupies  the  site  of  the  home  of  James  A.  Garfield  while  a 
member  of  Congress. 

No.  1415  I  St.  is  the  former  home  of  Chief  Justice  Morrison  R. 
Waite  (18 1 6-88).     At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  I  and  15th  Sts.  is  the  Bellevue 


236  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Hotel  (p.  5)-  No.  1535,  a  red-brick  dwelling  with  mansard  roof,  was 
the  residence  of  James  G.  Berret,  Mayor  of  Washington  during  the 
Civil  War. 

I  St.  now  crosses  16th  St.  (p.  199).  No.  1614  I  St.  was 
formerly  the  Ecuador  Legation.  No.  1617  is  the  former 
residence  of  the  late  George  W.  Riggs,  for  many  years 
partner  of  W.  W.  Corcoran.  It  is  now  occupied  by  his 
daughters.  No.  163 1,  now  included  in  the  site  of  the  Army 
and  Navy  Club,  was  the  home  of  Benjamin  F.  Tracey  while 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and  the  scene  of  the  tragic  fire  in 
which  Mrs.  Tracey  lost  her  life. 

No.  1634  I  iSt.  is  now  occupied  by  the  American  Associa- 
tion of  University  Women,  which  was  recently  obliged  to 
vacate  its  first  Washington  home,  the  Stockton  House,  when 
the  latter  property  was  acquired  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce 
of  the  United  States   (p.  222). 

The  American  Association  of  University  Women  was  formed  in 
Boston  in  1882  for  the  purpose  of  opening  educational  opportunities  to 
women.  Today  it  represents  eighty  colleges  and  universities  and  its 
membership  numbers  many  thousands.  The  purchase  of  a  national  head- 
quarters was  authorized  at  the  biennial  convention  in  St.  Louis  in  19 19. 
The  money  for  alterations  and  furnishings  of  the  club  house  was 
raised  by  gifts  and  loans  from  college  women  throughout  the  country. 
$15,000  for  the  furnishings  was  pledged  by  the  alumnae  of  six  of  the 
larger  colleges,  while  those  of  Wellesley  College  gave  the  furnishings 
of  the  large  lounge  on  the  ground  floor.  The  reception  room  was  fur- 
nished by  the  daughters  of  former  Secretary  Lamont  in  the  name  of 
Elmira  College,  and  to  the  memory  of  their  mother,  who  occupied  the 
house  for  many  years.  All  of  the  furnishings  and  memorials  were 
removed  from  the  Stockton  House  and  will  occupy  corresponding  posi- 
tions in  the  Association's!  new  home. 

No.  1708  I  St.  was,  in  the  early  8o's,  the  residence  of  Postmaster- 
General  Timothy  O.  Howe.  No.  1710,  former  residence  of  Mrs.  Stanley 
Matthews.  No.  171 1,  former  residence  of  Paymaster-General  Watmough, 
U.  S.  N.  No.  1720,  residence  of  Supreme  Court  Justice  Oliver  Wen- 
dell Holmes.  No.  1728,  once  the  home  of  Charles  Goodyear,  in- 
ventor  of   vulcanized    rubber. 

The  Freiinghuysen  House,  a  dignified  old  mansion  with 
Corinthian  columns,  was  successively  the  home  of  four  Cab- 
inet officers :  Theodore  Freiinghuysen,  and  William  M. 
Evarts,  while  respectively  Secretary  of  State;  William  C. 
Whitney,  as  Secretary  of  the  Navy;  and  John  Wanamaker, 
as  Postmaster-General.  Subsequently  it  was  acquired  by  S. 
S.  Howland,  son-in-law  of  August  Belmont.  No.  1736  was 
the  last  residence  of  Jefferson  Davis  in  Washington. 

No.  1801  I  St.,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  18th  St.,  was  built  by 
Marshall  Brown,  father-in-law  of  Richard  Wallach,  Mayor 
of  Washington.  Here  was  held  the  first  International  Amer- 
ican Conference,  at  which  the  Pan-American  Union  was  es- 
tablished. The  United  States  delegates  included  James  D. 
Blaine  and  Andrew1  Carnegie. 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL    STREETS  237 

Nos.  1809-13  are  occupied  by  the  Friends'  Meeting  House 
and  School.  No.  1826  was  the  residence  of  the  late  Rear 
Admiral  Schley.  No.  1828  was  formerly  (about  1878)  the 
Austro-Hungarian  Legation.  No.  1829  was  for  about  ten 
years  (until  1902)  the  Russian!  Emibassy. 

At  20th  St.,  Pennsylvania  Ave.  intersects  I  St.  obliquely, 
dividing  the  broad  open  rectangle  thus  formed  into  two  tri- 
angular parks.  On  the  N.  side  of  this  rectangle  stands  No. 
2005  I  St.,  former  home  of  General  T.  B.  Rucker,  U.S.A., 
father  of  General  Sherman's  widow.  No.  2013,  residence  of 
Admiral  Selfridge.  No.  2015,  residence  of  General  Robert 
Macfeely,  U.S.A.  No.  2017,  now  the  home  of  the  new  Arts 
Club,  of  which  the  sculptor  H.  K.  Bush-Brown  is  president. 
The  ibuilding  was  occupied  for  a  short  time  by  President 
Madison  after  he  left  the  Octagon  House  (p.  209),  and 
later  by  Monroe  while  Madison's  Secretary  of  State. 

Opposite,  across  the  park,  at  No.  2018  I  St.,  is  the  house  of  Prof. 
Cleveland  Abbe  (b.  1838),  who  in  1869  inaugurated  daily  weather 
forecasts,   and  became   widely   known   as   "Old   Probs." 

g.     K  Street  from  11th  Street  to  Rock  Creek 
K  St.,  W.  of  nth  St.,  has  many  interesting  associations 
and  contains  the  former  homes  of  more  distinguished  people 
than  any  other  one  of  the  lettered  streets. 

No.  1 1 01,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  nth  and  K  Sts.,  is  the  Strwthmore 
Arms,  former  home  of  Mrs.  Mary  J.  Lockwood,  author  of  "Historic 
Houses  in  Washington."  No.  1141,  former  home  of  John  M.  Wilson, 
once  Superintendent  of  Public)  Grounds  and  Buildings  and  Chief  of 
Engineers,  U.S.A.  A,t  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  12th  St.  is  the  parsonage  of  the 
New  York  Avenue  Presbyterian  Church  (p.  231).  Opposite,  at  No. 
1203  K  St.,  was  the  home  of  Commander  A.  S.  Wadsworth.  Here  his 
nephew,  Henry  W.  Longfellow,  stayed  when  visiting  Washington  in 
1839.  No.  121 1  was  successively  the  home  of  the  French  and  the 
Belgian    Legations. 

K  St.  here  passes  Franklin  Park  (on  S.).  The  large  red 
brick  dwelling  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  K  and  13th  Sts.  was  the 
Mexican  Legation  at  the  close  of  the  Civil  War;  subse- 
quently it  was  occupied  by  the  Netherlands  Legation,  and 
was,  for  a  time,  the  home  of  Senator  Roscoe  Conkling.  No. 
1303,  immediately  adjoining  it,  was  the  home  of  Supreme 
Court  Justice  Noah  H.  Swain  (1804-84).  No.  1307  is  the 
house  used  for  the  meetings  of  the  Joint  High  Commission, 
which  framed  the  Treaty  of  Washington,  settling  the 
Alabama  Claims ;  and  here  the  treaty  was  signed  May  8th, 
1 87 1.  No.  131 1  is  the  house  built  by  Ben  Holiday,  who 
operated  a  Pony  Express  across  the  continent  before  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway  was  built.  Later  it  was  successively 
the  home  of  J.  W.  Noble,  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  and  of 
Justice  Howell  E.  Jackson. 


238  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  S.  E.  cor.  of  13th  and  K  Sts.  is  occupied  by  the 
Franklin  School. 

No.  1321,  a  large  gray  limestone  house  with  elaborately 
carved  Facade,  was  built  by  Secretary  of  State  John  Sher- 
man, who  lived  and  died  here.  No.  1323,  once  the  residence 
of  Edward  M.  Stanton,  Secretary  of  War,  who  died  here. 
No.  1403,  one  of  the  former  homes  of  Senator  Arthur  P. 
Gorman.  No.  1426,  former  residence  of  John  G.  Carlyle 
(Ky.),  Speaker  of  the  House,  U.  S.  Senator  and  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury.  No.  1428,  former  home  of  Admiral 
Worden,  Commander  of  the  Monitor  during  her  fight  with 
the  Merrimac.  No.  1432,  former  home  of  Supreme  Court 
Justice  Samuel  Blatchford   (1820-93). 

No.  1537  K  St.,  a  granite  and  yellow  brick  structure, 
was  the  home  of  Philander  C.  Knox  while  successively 
Attorney-General  and  Secretary  of  State.  (For  Anderson 
and  Everts  houses,  at  intersection  with  16th  St.  see  p.   199.) 

No.  1 601  K  St.  was  the  last  home  of  Admiral  George 
Dewey,  who  died  here.  No.  1603  K  St.  was  the  home  of 
William  H.  Taft  while  Secretary  of  War,  and  here  he 
received  the  news  of  his  nomination  for  the  Presidency.  No. 
1609  was  the  former  home  of  Senator  Wetmore  of  Rhode 
Island ;  also  of  one-time  Postmaster  General  Wilson  S.  Bissell. 
No.  1612  was  the  residence  of  Robert  Bacon  while  Assistant 
Secretary  of  State.  No.  1623,  formerly  the  home  of  Secretary 
of  the  Interior  Hoke  Smith,  and  later  occupied  by  the  Rev. 
Randolph  Harrison  McKim,  when  Rector  of  Epiphany  Church. 
No.  1626,  former  home  of  Senator  Stephen  B.  Elkins 
of  Virginia. 

No.  1627  K  St.  is  the  residence  of  Col.  Jerome  Bona- 
parte, great-grandnephew  of  Napoleon.  It  is  a  conspicuous 
edifice  in  French  16th  century  Gothic  {Gray  and  Pope, 
architects).  No.  1632,  on  S.  E.  cor.  of  17th  St.,  was  the  home 
of  the  late  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie,  wife  of  Lieut.  R.  L.  Hoxie, 
U.S.A. 

Mrs.  Hoxie  (1847-1914)  was  one  of  the  best  known  women  sculptors 
in  America.  She  studied  under  Bonnat  in  Paris,  and  under  Majoli  in 
Rome.  While  abroad  she  modeled  Cardinal  Antonelli  and  Liszt.  Ex- 
amples of  her  work  in  Washington   include  the   Lincoln   statue   in  the 

Rotunda  of  the  Capitol,  Governor  Kirkwood  and  Sequoyah,  a  Cherokee 
Chief  (p.  96),  both  in  Statuary  Hall;  Farragut,  in  Farragut  Square 
(p.  222)   and  her  own  monument  in  Arlington  Cemetery  (p.   511). 

K  St.  now  passes  the  northern  end  of  Farragut  Square 
(p.  222).  Facing  the  Square,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  17th  St., 
is  the  house  occupied  by  Charles  W.  Fairbanks  when  Vice- 
President.     No.   1703,  once  the  Chilean  Legation,  is  now  the 


OTHER   RESIDENTIAL   STREETS  239 

home  of  Charles  Carroll  Glover,  a  distinguished  Washington 
financier,  and  President  of  the  Riggs  National  Bank. 
No.  1705,  site  of  former  home  of  Don  Cameron  (about 
l&79)  ;  then  successively  Chinese  and  Russian  Legations.  It 
was  erected  and  occupied  by  Alexander  R.  Shepherd  after  he 
was  Governor. 

No.  1730  K  St.  was  the  earlier  Washington  home  of  Dr. 
Swan  M.  and  Mrs.  Frances  Hodgson  Burnett.  "Little  Lord 
Fauntleroy"  was  written  here. 

Five  squares  W.,  at  2203  K  St.,  is  the  home  of  Dr. 
Charles  Greeley  Abbot,  Director,  since  1907,  of  the  Smith- 
sonian  Astrophysical    Observatory. 

One  square  further  W.,  at  Washington  Circle,  K  St.  and 
Pennsylvania  intersect.  Beyond,  at  Nos.  2506  and  2508,  and 
still  further  W.  at  No.  2618-20  there  still  stand  some  ancient 
looking  brick  dwellings  in  fair  preservation,  although  dating 
from  1798.  They  were  built  by  Robert  Peter,  one  of  the 
Original  Proprietors  of  Washington  City,  who  married  Martha 
Washington's  granddaughter,  Martha  Parke  Custis.  When 
built  they  stood  upon  what  was  then  the  highway  from 
Georgetown  to  the  Capital  City.  George  Washington  was 
a  frequent  visitor  at  No.  2618-20  when  it  was  occupied  by  the 
Peters ;  and  a  bronze  tablet  beside  the  entrance  records  that 
he  passed  the  night  there  on  the  occasion  of  his  last  visit  to 
the  Capital. 


24o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


WASHINGTON    SOUTHWEST   AND 
THE  MALL 

I.     The  Mall  from  the  Botanic  Gardens  to 
Fourteenth  Street 

*The  Mall  (PI.  Ill— E4),  one  of  the  main  arteries  of  the 
city's  park  system,  extends  westward  from  the  Capitol  Grounds 
iJ/2  miles,  connecting  with  the  Executive  Grounds  on  the  N.  and 
with  Potomac  Park  on  the  W.  It  comprises  (from  E.  to  W.)  : 
1.  The  Botanical  Gardens;  2.  the  Public  Gardens;  3.  Armory 
Square ;  4.  the  Smithsonian  Grounds ;  5.  the  Agricultural 
Grounds;  6.  the  Monument  Grounds.  The  first  two  of  these 
divisions  are  triangular  in  shape;  but  W.  of  6th  St.  the 
Mall  has  a  uniform  width  of  approximately  a  quarter-mile, 
extending  from  B  St.  North  to  B  St.  South. 

The  E.  end  of  the  Mall  abuts  on  First  St.,  directly  op- 
posite the  western  stairway  and  portico  of  the  Capitol,  and 
extends  from  the  circle  at  the  foot  of  Pennsylvania  Ave., 
containing  the  Peace  Monument  (p.  97),  to  that  at  foot 
of  Maryland  Ave.,  occupied  by  the  James  A.  Garfield  Me- 
morial. This  monument,  the  gift  of  the  Society  of  the 
Army  of  the  Potomac,  was  designed  by  /.  Q.  A.  Ward,  and 
consists  of  a  standing  portrait  statue  in  bronze,  heroic  size, 
surmounting  a  lofty  triangular  pedestal,  at  the  three  cor- 
ners of  which  are  three  seated  male  figures,  symbolizing 
The  Student,  The  Warrior  and  The  Statesman, — the  three 
successive  phases  of  Garfield's  career.  Erected  in  1887  at 
a  cost  of  $65,000,  one-half  of  which  was  contributed  by 
Congress   to   pay   for   the   pedestal   and   symbolic   figures. 

Radical  changesi  in  the  Mall  are  among  the  chief  factors  in  the 
elaborate  plans  for  beautifying  Washington,  as  formulated  by  the  Art 
Commission,  and  submitted  to  Congress  in  1901.  The  leading  features 
of  these  changes,  which  involved  a  protracted  battle  with  one  Con- 
gressional committee  after  another  were:  first,  the  complete  removal 
of  the  Botanic  Gardens,  and  restoration  of  the  wide,  open  square 
contemplated  in  L'Enf ant's  original  plan;  Fecondly,  the  substitution  of 
a  new  main  axis  for  the  Mall,  in  place  of  the  preselnt  axis,  for  the 
purpose  of  rectifying  the  mistake  or  oversight  of  the  builders  of  the 
Washington  Monument  in  placing  that  Memorial  more  than  100  ft. 
southeast  of  the  true  line.  This  latter  change  was  accomplished  by 
drawing  a  new  line  from  the  Dome  of  the  Capitol  through  the  Wash- 
ington Monument,  and  prolonging  it  to  the  Potomac,  to  serve  also  as 
the  axis  for  the  Lincoln  Memorial  that  was  part  of  the  Art  Commission's 
plan.     It  was  proposed  also  that  all  the   central  trees  and  shrubbery 


THE   MALL  241 

should  be  cleared  away,  leaving  a  smooth  carpet  of  greensward  300  ft. 
wide,  with  two  lines  of  stately  elms  planted  in  columns  of  four,  one 
column  on  each  side,  thus  bringing  the  Monument  into  the  vista  of  the 
Capitol,  a  mile  and  a  half  away.  The  new  axis  is  now1  an  accomplished 
fact,  and  the  three  great  Memorials  to  Washington,  Lincoln  and  Grant 
conform  to  it.  The  Botanic  Gardens,  however,  stubbornly  hold  their 
ground,  and  bid  fair  to  delay  for  somej  time  to  come  the  full  realization 
of  the   Art  Commission's   plans. 

a.    The  Botanic  Gardens 

The  Botanic  Gardens  (PI.  I — D3).  These  Gardens,  oc- 
cupying the  truncated  triangle  lying  between  Pennsylvania  and 
New  Jersey  Aves.,  1st  and  3rd  Sts.,  contain  the  Grant  Memorial 
Monument,  the  Bartholdi  Fountain,  a  number  of  fine  old  His- 
toric Trees,  and  a  system  of  Conservatories  housing  rare  plants 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  gardens  are  open  to  the 
public  daily  from  sunrise  to  sunset ;  conservatories  open  from 
8  a.m.  to  4:30  p.m.;  on  Sunday  only  the  main  conservatory  is 
open. 

History.  The  Botanic  Gardens  were  established  by  the 
Columbian  Institute  for  the  Promotion  of  Arts  and  Sciences, 
incorporated  by  Act  of  Congress  April  20th,  1818.  The  pres- 
ent site  was  granted  by  Congress  in  1820  and  there  is  a  tradi- 
tion that  George  Washington  contemplated  the  establishment 
of  gardens  in  this  locality.  Up  to  1836  no  improvements  had 
been  made.  The  tract  was  a  stagnant  and  malarial  swamp,  and 
Congress  was  prevailed  upon  to  make  an  appropriation  of 
$5000  for  improvements,  including  pipes  to  convey  the  surplus 
water  from  the  Capitol,  and  the  purchase  of  a  fountain  to  be 
designed  by  Hiram  Pozvers. 

The  real  beginning,  however,  of  the  Botanic  Gardens 
dates  from  the  Wilkes  Exploring  Expedition  of  1838-42.  In 
the  Naval  Appropriation  Act  of  May  14th,  1836,  the  Presi- 
dent was  authorized  to  send  out  a  surveying  apd  exploring 
expedition  to  the  Pacific  and  South  Seas.  This  expedition 
consisted  of  six  Government  ships,  under  Lieut.  Charles 
Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  They  sailed  August  18th,  1838.  The  staff 
included  a  botanist,  W.  D.  Breckenridge,  who  brought  back 
a  large  collection  of  specimens,  including  seeds  and  cuttings. 
This  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  Botanical  collection.  The 
present  site,  however,  was  not  occupied  until  1850,  and  the 
main  conservatory  building,  a  structure  30  ft.  long,  with  a 
central  dome  60  ft  high,  was  not  erected  until  1867. 

The  Gardens  in  their  present  location  are  a  serious  obstacle 

to    the    comprehensive    scheme    for    beautifying    Washington 

(P-  354).  and  the  present  available  space  is  wholly  inadequate 

for  the  development  of  a  National  Botanic  Garden   on  the 


242  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

same  liberal  lines  as  the  Rock  Creek  Zoological  Park.  Yet, 
although  their  removal  to  some  suburban  tract  has  been  stead- 
ily urged  for  more  than  20  years,  public  indifference  and  active 
opposition  have  united  to  keep  them  where  they  are.  As 
recently  as  Feb.,  1922,  a  plan  was  announced  for  incorporating 
them  as  a  part  of  the  comprehensive  scheme  for  beautifying 
Washington,  through  the  acquisition  of  a  broad  strip  of  land 
south  of  the  present  gardens,  all  the  way  to  the  river. 

"Among  scientists  the  Botanic  Garden  has  no  particular  standing" 
for  it  has  long  been  regarded  as  a  joke,  and  quite  unwoithy  of  the 
Government  of  the  United  States.  Being  under  control  of  the  Con- 
gressional Joint  Committee  on  the  Library,  it  is  practically  an  inde- 
pendent institution  wihout  guidance,  direction  or  responsibility." — 
Charles  Moore.   "Daniel  H.  Burnham." 

b.    The  Grant  Memorial  Monument 

The  *Grant  Memorial  Monument  (PI.  I— D4),  unveiled 
April  27,  1922,  the  centenary  of  Grant's  birth,  is  situated  at  the 
end  of  the  Botanical  Gardens,  with  its  center  on  the  line  of 
the  newly  established  axis  of  the  Mall,  and  a  few  feet  S.  of 
the  old  axis.  This  monument  was  authorized  in  February, 
1001,  when  Congress  appropriated  $250,000.  In  August,  1902, 
the  contract  was  awarded  for  $240,000  to  Edward  Pearce 
Casey,  architect,  and  Henry  Merwin  Shrady,  sculptor,  and 
constituted  the  largest  Government  contract  thus  far  awarded 
for  any  single  piece  of  monumental  sculpture.  There  followed 
a  protracted  discussion  regarding  choice  of  location,  the  White 
House  grounds  and  the  Union  Station  Plaza  being  both 
strongly  urged.  Finally  the  present  site,  representing  the 
choice  of  the  Art  Commission,  and  individually  indorsed  by 
Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  Charles  F.  McKim,  Daniel  Chester 
French  and  other  prominent  artists,  was  decided  upon.  Work 
upon  the  foundation  was  begun  _  October  7,  1907,  but  was 
stopped  two  days  later  by  an  injunction  intended  to  prevent 
the  necessary  removal  of  three  historic  trees,  including  _  the 
Crittenden  Peace  Qak.  There  followed  protracted  hearings 
before  the  Joint  Library  Committee,  which  had  the  matter  in 
charge.  The  opposition  was  headed  by  the  venerable  Dr. 
William  R.  Smith,  for  55  years  Superintendent  of  the  Botanic 
Gardens.  No  decision  was  reached  until  Secretary  Taft  ap- 
peared before  the  Committee  and  emphatically  stated  that  this 
site  had  been  selected  for  the  Grant  Memorial,  because  it  was 
an  essential  part  of  the  Park  Commission's  comprehensive 
plans  for  improvement.  The  outcome  was  that  the  Crittenden 
and  Beck  trees  were  moved,  and  the  work  on  the  Memorial 
went  forward. 


THE   MALL  243 

In  the  course  of  these  hearings  the  interesting  fact  was  revealed 
that  a  large  •  proportion  of  the  trees  contained  in  it  are  historic^,  having 
been  planted  'by  famous  men,  both  Americans  and  foreigners.  It  was 
found  necessary,  however,  to  conceal  the  identity  of  these  tree®  from 
the  public,  as  the  only  practical  means  of  saving  them  from  vandalism. 

The  marble  superstructure  of  the  Memorial,  262  ft.  long 
by  69  ft.  in  width,  consists  of  a  terraced  platform  surmounted 
by  three  pedestals,  the  central  and  loftiest  of  which  supports 
an  equestrian  figure  of  Grant  colossal  heroic  size.  At  the 
four  corners  of  this  pedestal  are  recumbent  lions.  The  N. 
and  S.  pedestals  support  respectively  spirited  bronze  groups 
representing  Cavalry  and  Artillery.  The  third  branch  of 
the  service,  Infantry,  will  be  represented  in  two  bas-relief 
panels  that  are  yet  to  be  placed  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  of  the 
main  pedestal.  These  groups  face  inward,  and  picture  a  mad 
rush  toward  the  center,  across  the  wide  stretch  of  white  marble 
that  separates  them  from  the  mounted  figure  of   Grant. 

The  General  is  portrayed  wearing  the  familiar  slouch  hat 
and  army  cloak  of  his  Civil  War  campaigns.  His  pose  is  that 
of  a  reviewing  officer,  and  his  characteristic  serenity  is  empha- 
sized by  the  fiery  spirit  of  the  huge  stallion  he  bestrides.  This 
Memorial  is  said  to  be  exceeded  in  height,  among  equestrian 
statues,  only  by  that  of  Victor  Emmanuel  in  Rome.  Some  idea 
of  the  size  and  proportions  of  the  Memorial  as  a  whole  is  con- 
veyed by  the  statement  that  the  Cavalry  group  alone  weighs 
15  tons.  Special  Artillery  and  Cavalry  drills  were  given  at 
West  Point  and  other  posts  to  aid  the  sculptor  in  the  develop- 
ment of  his  design.  Mr.  Shrady  spent  upward  of  15  years 
upon  these  sculptures.  He  died  in  New  York  April  13,  1922, 
just  two  weeks  before  the  dedication  of  the  Monument. 

At  the  ceremony  of  the  unveiling,  among  those  present 
were  the  Princess  Cantacuzene,  granddaughter  of  General 
Grant,  and  her  little  daughter  Ida,  who  unveiled  the  statue. 
The  principal  speaker,  Vice  President  Coolidge,  characterized 
Grant  as  having  "lived  the  great  realities  of  life,"  adding  that 
"as  Lincoln  could  put  truth  into  words,  so  Grant  could  put 
truth  into  action." 

"Few  of  the  people  who  now  gaze  through  the  iron  fence  can 
realize  the  transformation  planned  when  the  Memorial  to  General  Grant 
was  located  in  the  grounds  of  the  Botanic  Gardens  ...  Of  the 
brains  and  heart's  blood  that  have  gone  into  this  work,,  the  future  will 
tell.  Today  it  stands  in  the)  alien  company  of  an  overpowering  cast-iron 
fountain  and  towering  greenhouses.  Some  day  high  wall  and  iron 
fence,  fountain  and  greenhouses  will  be  cast  aside  like  a  cocoon,  and 
then  will  appear  the  great  squarei  designed  by  L'Enfant  as  the  head  of 
the  Mall,  with  the  Grant  Memorial  as  its  chief  ornament." — Charles 
Moore. 


244  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Midway  in  the  gardens,  and  N.  of  the  main  conserva- 
tory, stands  the  Bartholdi  Fountain,  designed  by  Anguste  Bar- 
tholdi,  the  French  sculptor,  who  also  designed  the  Statue  of 
Liberty  in  New  York  Harbor.  This  fountain  was  one  of  the 
attractions  at  the  Centennial  Exposition  of  1876,  and  cost 
$6000. 

The  Historic  Trees  in  the  Gardens  are  not  labelled,  but  can  most 
of  them,  be  easily  identified.  The  Crittenden  Oak,  of  the  mossy  overcup 
variety,  stands  close  to  the  E.  gate,  and  was  planted  by  John  J. 
Crittenden  to  mark  the  spot  of  a  debate  between  several  statesmen, 
in  which  he  made  a  fine  but  unavailing1  effort  for  peace  between  the 
North  and  South.  A  few  feet  S.  of  this  oak  stands  the  Beck-Washington 
Elm,  a  scion  of  the  elm  planted  by  Washington  at  the  west  front  of 
the  Capitol.  The  parent  tree  died  from  injury  to  its  roots  when  the 
present  marble  terrace  was  constructed.  One  of  the*  most  interesting 
trees  is  an  Oriental  Plane  standing  at  the  west  end  of  the  Gardens, 
the  seed  of  which  came  from  the  Vale  of  Cashmere  and  was  planted 
by  Thaddeus  Stevens.  This  and  one  other  Plane  Tree  planted  in 
Lincoln  Square  from  the  same  consignment  of  seeds,  are  the  parents  of 
all  the  Oriental  Plane  trees  in  Washington.  Near  this  parent  Plane 
stand  the  following  trees:  a  British  Oak,  planted  by  Mr.  Bayard  of 
Delaware,  while  American  Ambassador  to  England,  a  cut-leaved  Oriental 
Sycamore,  planted  by  Senator  Daniel  Voorhies;  and  an  American  Oak, 
planted  by  President  Hayes.  Near  the  E.  end  of  the  conservatory  is 
Jefferson  Davis's  Tree,  a  Monterey  Cypress,  aj  species  discovered  in  the 
mountains  of  the  trans-Mississippi  country  by  government  explorers 
when  seeking  a  practical  trans-continental  route.  At. 'the  S.  front  of  the 
main  conservatory  are  two  tall  Cypress  trees  of  the  Bald  variety, 
planted  respectively  by  John  W.  Forney,  a  journalist,  and  Edwin  Forrest, 
the  actor.  Nearby  is  a  Chinese  Oak,  raised  from  seed  growing  at  the 
grave  of  Confucius.  It  was  a  gift  from  the  garden  of  Charles  A.  Dana, 
and  was  planted  by  Representative  Cummings  of  New  York.  On  the  S. 
walk  of  the  Gardens  are  two  Cedars  of  Lebanon,  planted  respectively  by 
Senator  Hoar  and  Senator  Everts.  Near  the  S.  front  of  the  Extra- 
Tropical  greenhouse  is  the*  Albert  Pike  Acacia,  a  tree  of  Masonry;  and 
near  it  is  another  Acacia  raised  from  a  sprig  of  the  Acacia  wreath  placed 
by  Masons  on  the  bier  of  Garfield. 

Beyond  the  Botanic  Gardens  is  a  second  and  smaller 
triangle,  the  Public  Gardens,  with  apex  on  3d  St.  and  base 
on  6th  St,  its  other  two  sides  being  bounded  by  Maine  and 
Missouri  Aves.  It  is  divided  by  4^4  St.  into  two  sections 
known  officially  as  East  and  West  Seaton  \Park,  both  of  which 
were  added  by  Act  of  Congress,  1917,  to  the  area  of  the 
Botanical  Gardens. 

Facing  the  Public  Gardens,  No.  467  Missouri  Ave.,  was 
the  residence  of  John  Tyler  before  he  became  President. 

Armory  Square,  a  narrow  parallelogram  lying  between 
6th  and  7th  Sts.,  contains  at  its  N.  E.  cor.  the  site  of  the 
former  Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.R.  Station,  where  President 'Gar- 
field was  shot  by  Charles  Guiteau,  July  2d,  1881.  This  cor- 
ner is  at  present  used  for  tennis-grounds.  It  has,  however, 
been   donated  by  the  Government   for  the   proposed   George 


THE   MALL  245 

Washington  Memorial,    for   which   more   than  $300,000  have 
already  been  raised. 

The  proposed  Memorial  is  to  be  a  four-story  structure  on  the 
Grecian  order  of  architecture.  On  the  ground  floor  there  is  to  be  a 
large  auditorium,  with  a  seating  capacity  of  7,000;  also  seven  con- 
vention halls  seating  from  500  to  2,500.  Behind  the  Auditorium 
balcony    will    be    a    banquet    hall    accommodating    700    diners. 

The  second  and  third  floors  will  contain  upward  of  100  rooms,  of 
which  each  State  in  the  Union  will  have  one,  for  display  purposes. 
Various  patriotic  organizations,  such  as  the  Colonial  Dames,  are  paying 
for  certain  rooms,  which  will  be  their  property  in  perpetuity.  The 
price   asked  for  these   rooms    is  $25.00   per  square   foot. 

The  fourth  floor  will  contain  a  memorial  to  the  Signers  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence;  also  a  Washington  Museum,  in  charge 
of    the    George    Washington    Memorial    Association. 

A  large  drawing  of  the  design  for  the  building,  approved  by  the 
National  Fine  Arts  Committee"  was  temporarily  placed  on  exhibition  in  the 
basement  of  the  New  National  Museum  in  April,  19 17.  The  main 
facade  has  a  colonnade  of  sixteen  Ionic  columns,  above  which  is 
inscribed,  "Let  us  raise  a  standard  to  which  the  wise  and  honest 
can  repair.  The  event  is  in  the  hands  of  God."  The  cost,  including 
endowment  fund  for  maintenance,  is  to  be  $2,500,000.  Tracy  and 
Swartwout,  architects. 

Much  of  the  area  both  of  the  Public  Gardens  and  of 
Armory  Square,  is  still  disfigured  by  the  ungainly  bulk  of 
temporary  Government  buildings  hastily  erected  during  the 
War,  and  still  housing  certain  branches  of  the  Executive 
Departments,  such  as  the  Bureau  of  Census  (Building  D)  and 
the  U.  S.  Employees'  Compensation  Commission  (Building 
F). 

c.     The  Bureau  of  Fisheries 

*The  Bureau  of  Fisheries  (PI.  I — C4),  containing  a  small 
but  interesting  Aquarium,  is  in  the  Mall,  at  6th  and  B  Sts., 
S.  W.,  in  the  so-called  Armory  building,  a  rectangular  three- 
story  brick  structure,  erected  in  1855  as  an  Armory  for  the 
District  iMilitia.  When,  at  the  close  of  the  Civil  War,  the 
regiments  were  mustered  out,  the  building  was  no  longer 
needed  for  its  orignal  purposes.  It  was  used  for  a  time 
(until  the  completion  of  the  old  National  Museum,  p.  322)  as 
a  storehouse  for  the  exhibits  acquired  by  the  Smithsonian 
Institution  from  the  Centennial  Exposition  in  Philadelphia. 
Aquarium  open  daily,  excepting  Sundays  and  holidays,  0 
A.  M.  to  4:30  P.  M. 

History.  The  Bureau  of  Fisheries  was  instituted  in  1871 
by  an  Act  of  Congress,  creating  the  office  of  Commissioner 
of  Fish  and  Fisheries,  to  be  filled  by  a  civil  officer  of  the 
Government  properly  qualified,  who  was  to  serve  without 
compensation.      The    first    Commissioner    was    Prof.    Spencer 


246  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

F.  Baird  subsequently  Secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion, who  served  until  his  death  in  1887.  The  growth  of  the 
Bureau  had  then  become  so  rapid  that  the  office  of  Commis- 
sioner was  divorced  from  other  governmental  work  with  an 
independent  salary.  The  organization  remained  directly  re- 
sponsible to  Congress  until  1903,  when  it  was  made  a  bureau 
in  the  new  Department  of  Commerce.  In  addition  to  the 
propagation  of  useful  food  fishes  and  their  distribution,  the 
investigation  of  American  fishing  grounds  and  compilation  of 
statistics,  the  duties  of  the  Bureau  now  include  the  administra- 
tion of  the  salmon  fisheries  of  Alaska,  the  fur-sealed  herd  on 
the  IPrtbilof  Isands,  and  the  protection  of  sponges  off  the 
coast  of  Florida. 

Scope  of  work.  As  originally  constituted  the  Bureau  was  an  insti- 
tution, "for  investigating  the  condition  of  fisheries  in  respect  to  their 
alleged  depletion,  the  causes  which  may  have  led  to  their  impoverish- 
ment, and  the  means  by  which  they  might  be  conseived  and  their 
productiveness  increased.  '  It  was  at  once  seen  that  the  remedy  was 
through  the  agency  of  fish  culture,  and  an  appropriation  to  this  end 
was  promptly  obtained  from  Congrests. 

The  work  began  experimentally  in  1872  when  a  few  salmon  and 
shad  were  hatched  and  planted.  By  1880  eight  specimens  of  fish  were 
being  distributed  on  an  extensive  scale,  and  experiments  with  other 
species  were  being  conducted.  The  work  has  now  grown  to'  enormous 
proportions.  During  the  fiscal  year  1921  the  Bureau  handled  some 
fifty  specimens  of  fish,  the  fresh-water  mussel  and  lobster.  The  official 
summary  of  distribution  during  this  year  shows  (including  eggs,  fry, 
"fingerlings,"  yearlings  and  adults)  a  total  number  of  4,962,489,405.  Of 
the  separate  species,  the  following  figures  are  fairly  representative  of 
the  choicer  and  the  rarer  types:  Whitefish,  420,450,000;  Haddock, 
460,820,000;  Chinook  Salmon,  39,560,765;  Brook  Trout,  12,058,845; 
Rainbow  Trout,   6,839,565;    Large-mouth    Black   Bass,    1,846,955. 

These  enormous  distributions  are  made  entirely  free  of  cost,  ex- 
cept cartage  from  point  of  delivery.  Any  individual  or  association  may 
send  in  applications  on  blanks  provided  by  the  Bureau.  The  endorse- 
ment of  a  Senator  or  Representative  is  required.  The  Bureau  has  now 
36  stations  and  94  sub-stations,  located  in  34  states  and  in  Alaska.  It 
has  its  special  delivery  cars  and  system  of  messengers,  the  distribution 
of  a  single  year  involving  over  600,000  miles  of   travel. 

The  main  entrance  is  on  the  N.  or  Mall  side,  opening 
upon  the  Central  exhibition  room.  On  L.  are  incubation 
tnoughs,  containing:  1.  Specimens  of  eggs  or  fry  of  trout, 
salmon,  etc.,  varying  with  the  season  of  the  year  (each  spe- 
cies having  its  own  date  of  incubation)  ;  2.  In  centre :  Large 
tank  formerly  containing  a  pair  of  Fur-Seals  (male  and 
female),  the  only  Fur-Seals  ever  reared  in  captivity.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  species,  includ- 
ing Catfish  and  Carp. 

One  of  the  mast  important  functions  of  the  Bureau  of  Fisheries  is 
its  entire  administrative  control  of  the  Pribilof  Islands,  including  the 
native  inhabitants  and  the  Fur-Seal  herds  which  resort  to  the  Islands 
during    breeding    season.      This    involves    also    the    enforcement    of    the 


THE   MALL  247 

laws  relating  to  the  fisheries  and  taking  of  fur-bearing  animals  in  Alaska. 
The  annual  value  of  the  Alaskan  fishery  products  is  approximately 
$20,000,000,  more  than  two  and  one-half  times  the  original  purchase 
cost  of  Alaska. 

South  of  the  large  tank  are  exhibition  cases  containing: 
Collection  illustrating  results  of  the  Bureau's  experiments  in 
artificial  propagation  and  growth  of  sponges  of  commercial 
value;  An  adjacent  collection  (for  purposes  of  comparison) 
of  foreign  sponges,  illustrating  the  commercial  varie- 
ties derived  from  the  Mediterranean  and  Caribbean  Sea, 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  Bahama  Islands ;  Exhibition  of 
Fresh-water  mussels ;  Fresh-water  pearls ;  and  pearl  shell 
suitable  for  buttons,  with  examples  of  pearl  buttons  in  various 
stages  of  development ;  On  S.  Wall :  Bronze  memorial  Tablet 
to  Spencer  Fullerton  Baird  (1823-87).  This  tablet  contains, 
besides  the  low-relief  portrait,  the   following  tribute: 

"Founder  and  Organizer  of  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Fisheries;  Commis- 
sioner of  Fisheries  1871-87.  He  devoted  his  life  to  the!  public  service, 
and  through  the  application  of  science  to  fish  culture  and  the  fisheries, 
gave  his  country  world-wide  distinction.  His  co-workers  and  followers 
in  this  field  dedicate  this  tablet  on  the  anniversary  of  the  establishment 
of  the  fishery  service  February  9,  19 16." 

The  central  door  on  W.  opens  directly  upon  a  T-shaped 
extension,  lined  with  a  series  of  twenty-eight  wall  tanks  con- 
taining approximately  25  species  of  fish.  These  exhibits  are 
arranged  as  follows  (from  R.  to  L.),  beginning  on  the  N. 
side : 

Main  Aisle  (E.  to  W.):  1.  Bream;  2.  Roach;  3.  Sucker; 
4.   Channel   Catfish;   5.   Yellow  Catfish;    6.   Little  Sunfish. 

Transverse  Aisle,  East  Wall  (S.  to  N.):  1.  Gar  Pike;  2.  Small- 
mouth  Black  Bass;  3.  (N.  Wall)  Carp;  4.  (W.  Wall)  Crappie;  5.  Pearl 
Roach;  6.  Gold  Fish;  7.  Large-mouth  Black  Bass;  8.  Yellow  Perch; 
9.  Rock  Bass;  10.  Small-mouth  Black  Bass;  11.  (S.  Wall)  Bowfin; 
12.  (E.  Wall)  Albino  Brook  Trout;  13-14.  Rainbow  Trout;  15.  Brook 
Trout. 

Main  Aisle,  South  Side:  1.  Gold  Fish;  2,  Black  Bass;  3.  Common 
Sunfisih;  4.   Pike  Perch;   5.  Yellow  Perch;   6.  Gold  Fish. 

In  Commissioner's  room  and  hallway  on  second  floor  are  portraits 
of  former  Commissioners:  1.  Spencer  F.  Baird,  1871-77;  2.  G.  B. 
Goode,  1887-89;  3.  Marshall  McDonald,  1888-95;  4-  John  J.  Brice, 
1896-98;  5.  George  M.  Bowers,   1898. 

The  library,  on  third  floor,  is  open  to  the  ■public  for  refer- 
ence. It  contains  approximately  30,000  volumes,  and  is  strong 
on  ichthyology,  fish  culture,  commercial  fisheries  and  ocean- 
ography. 

d.    The  Army  Medical  Museum 

The  Smithsonian  Grounds  (PI.  V — B4),  forming  an  al- 
most perfect  square,  extend  from  7th  to  12th  :Sts.,  and  con- 
tain the  buildings  of  six  important  artistic  and  scientific  insti- 


248  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

tuitions:  i.  The  Army  Medical  Museum;  2.  the  Old  National 
Museum ;  3.  the  New  National  Museum ;  4  the  Smithsonian 
Institution ;  5.  the  Astrophysical  Observatory ;  6.  the  Freer  Art 
Museum,  now  in  course  of  construction. 

Directly  W.  of  the  Bureau  of  Fisheries,  at  the  N.  W. 
cor.  of  7th  and  B  Sts.  S.  W.,  stands  the  Army  Medical 
Museum  Building  (PI.  I — C4),  a  plain  red  brick  structure 
consisting  of  basement  and  three  stories,  with  a  frontage  of 
232  ft.  and  three  wings  extending  back  136  ft.  (erected  1886- 
88;  Oluss  and  Schulze,  architects). 

The  Museum  was  founded  and  a  large  and  important 
part  of  its  medical  and  surgical  exhibits  were  collected  during 
the  Civil  War.  For  approximately  twenty  years  it  was  housed 
in  the  historic  Ford's  Theatre,  on  10th  St.  (p.  145),  from 
which  it  was  removed  to  its  present  quarters  in  1887.  The 
collection  is  said  to  be  the  richest  in  the  world  in  specimens 
illustrating  the  results  of  gun-shot  wounds,  and  in  the  surgical 
instruments   which   such  wounds   necessitate. 

In  addition  to  administrative  offices,  laboratories,  etc., 
the  building  contains  the  Museum  and  Medical  Library,  both 
comprised  within  a  Bureau  of  the  War  Department,  under 
the  direct  control  of  the  Surgeon  General.  They  are 
open  free  to  the  public  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays, 
from  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M.  Unlike  most  anatomical  museums, 
no  notices  are  posted  restricting  admission  on  the  ground  of 
sex  or  age.  The  museum  is  located  on  the  second  floor,  at 
the  E.  end  of  main  hall,  and  rises  through  two  stories  of  the 
entire  east  wing,  with  a  gallery  encircling  all  four  sides.  The 
collection  is  naturally  of  primary  interest  to  physicians  and 
surgeons;  but  it  merits  more  than  a  cursory  inspection  by 
any  other  visitor  sufficiently  stoic  to  face  its  gruesome  details. 
The  collection  comprises  a  vast  array  of  human  bones,  skulls, 
etc.,  showing  every  imaginable  form  of  fracture  and  muti- 
lation; human  tissues  (skin,  muscles  and  internal  organs) 
both  healthy  and  diseased,  in  jars  of  preserving  fluid;  and 
minutely  accurate  reproductions  in  colored  wax,  life  size, 
showing  the  process  of  healing  wounds,  the  spread  of  skin- 
diseases  and  the  successive  stages  of  malignant  growths. 

The  exhibits  are  all  fully  labeled.  The  S.  end  cases 
contain  an  extensive  collection  of  microscopes  and  other  ap- 
paratus used  in  modern  bacteriological  research.  The  up- 
right cases  along  both  E.  and  W.  walls  are  devoted  mainly 
to  tumors  and  other  local  diseases  of  the  internal  organs; 
fibrous  tumors;  cancers  and  abscesses  of  the  liver;  tumors 
and  cancers  of  the  peritoneum;   intestinal  diseases  and  in- 


THE   MALL  249 

juries;  appendicitis;  diseases  of  the  mouth  and  oesophagus, 
etc.  The  last  few  cases  on  the  S.  E.,  while  no  less  patho- 
logical, offer  the  relief  of  diversity,  containing:  1.  Animal 
parasites  and  diseases  (Tape-worm,  Hook-worm,  Trichina, 
Botfly,  etc.);  2.  Vegetable  parasites  and  diseases;  3.  Mon- 
strosities (both  human  specimens  and  lower  animals).  The 
central  cases  contain  exhibits  illustrating  pathological  effects 
upon  the  human  tissues  (skin,  heart,  liver,  lungs,  etc.) 
wrought  by  the  more  deadly  contagious  diseases,  including: 
Typhoid,  Tuberculosis,  Yellow  Fever,  Beri-beri,  Small-pox, 
Epidemic  Cholera,  Leprosy,  Bubonic  Plague,  Glanders,  Pneu- 
monia,  Diphtheria  and  Cerebro-spinal    Meningitis. 

The  collection  of  *Surgical  Instruments  is  contained  in 
a  series  of  table  cases  in  front  of  E.  and  W.  windows.  They 
are  arranged  historically,  beginning  with  reproductions  of 
ancient  Roman  instruments  found  in  Pompeii,  and  coming 
down  to  the  American  Army  Surgeon's  kit  of  the  Civil  War 
period,  the  Spanish-American  War  and  the  present  day. 

Surmounting  the  central  cases  are  portrait  busts  of  great 
anatomists  of  the  past  including  Galen,  Linnaeus,  Cuvier, 
Agassiz  and  Oliver  Wendell   Holmes. 

The  gallery  exhibits,  reached  by  stairs  at  S.  W.  cor., 
consist  chiefly  of  bones  showing  gunshot  fractures;  also  dis- 
locations and  abnormalities.  The  first  case  on  W.  wall, 
opposite  stairs,  should  not  be  missed,  for  it  contains  a  few 
historic  relics  possessing  a  grim  interest.  They  include : 
^'Vertebrae  from  the  neck  of  Wilkes  Booth,  showing  bullet 
wound  made  by  Boston  Corbett ;  Hair  from  around  the 
wound  on  Lincoln's  head ;  Skull  and  Spleen  of  Charles 
Guiteau,  assassin  of  Garfield;  Armbones  of  Gen.  Daniel  F. 
Sickles ;  plaster  cast  of  Brain  of  Laura  Bridgman,  the  famous 
deaf-mute ;  plaster  cast  of  Armbone  of  David  Livingstone,  the 
African  explorer,  showing  fracture  caused  by  bite  of  lion ; 
Skull  preserved  for  pathological  reasons,  but  happening  by 
coincidence  to  be  that  of  a  ''funny  old  woman  who  was  an 
upper  domestic''  in  a  hotel  where  Dickens  stayed  at  Sandusky, 
Ohio  (see  American  Notes). 

The  special  *Hookworm  Disease  Exhibit,  arranged  by 
the  International  Health  Commission,  Rockefeller  Founda- 
tion, is  in  a  small  room  reached  through  middle  door  of  west 
gallery.  The  exhibit  includes :  1.  a  series  of  cases  showing 
the  life  cycle  of  the  hookworm,  by  means  of  models  magnified 
from  42  to  600  times ;  wax  models  of  hands  and  feet,  showing 
the  characteristic  inflammation  or  "Grounditch,"  caused  by  the 
entering  embryos ;  life-size  models  of  boys  in  advanced  stages 


250  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

of  the  disease;  2.  reduced  models  of  a  typical  southern  log 
cabin  and  surroundings,  showing,  first,  the  slovenly  and  in- 
sanitary conditions  that  foster  the  hook-worm;  secondly,  the 
transformation  wrought  by  sanitation ;  3.  charts,  maps,  photo- 
graphs and  statistics,  showing  the  percentage  of  victims  in 
the  infected  areas.  The  exhibit  is  a  model  of  its  kind  in 
clearness  and  convincing  force. 

The  Army  Medical  Library  is  at  the  opposite  end  of  the 
of  the  building,  in  the  west  wing.  It  is  a  reference  library; 
but  books  are  lent  to  the  medical  profession.  Resources  about 
190,000  volumes  and  about  twice  as  many  pamphlets. 

This  library  was  begun  by  Surg.  Gen.  Lovell  prior  to  1836,  and 
for  many  years  consisted  of  a  small  collection  kept  solely  for  the  use 
of  the  Surgeon  General's  office,  amounting  at  the  time  of  the  Civil 
War  to  barely  400  volumes.  In, the  fall  of  1865  Dr.  John  Shaw  Bill- 
ings became  librarian,  and  under  his  administration  began  a  remarkable 
growth  which  has  resulted  irr  making  this  the  leading  medical  library 
of  the  world. 

The  only  objects  of  interest  to  the  casual  visitor  are  some 
exhibits  of  rare  and  curious  old  medical  works  in  table  cases; 
and  portraits,  chiefly  of  former  Surgeon  Generals,  on  the 
walls.  The  latter  include:  West  Wall  (R.  to  L.)  :  1,  Benja- 
min Fordyce  Barker  (1818-91)  ;  2.  Samuel  G.  Morton  (1799- 
1851)  ;  3.  John  Hunter  (1728-93),  a  physiological  writer  on 
surgery,  copy  after  Joshua  Reynolds;  Philip  Byng  Physick 
(1768-1837),  by  Rembrandt  Peale..  South  Wall:  1.  John  S. 
Billings  (in  charge  of  library  1865-95),  "presented  by  250 
physicians  of  America  and  Great  Britain";  2.  James  Tilton, 
Surg.  Gen.,  1813-15;  3.  Joseph  Lovell,  Surg.  Gen.  1818-36. 
East  Wall :  1.  Thomas  Larson,  Surg.  Gen.  1836-61 ;  2.  Clement 
A.  Finley,  Surg.  Gen.  1861-62;  3.  Joseph  K.  Bangs,  Surg.  Gen. 
1864-82;  4.  R.  M.  O'Reilly,  Surg.  Gen.  1901-09;  5.  Charles  H. 
Crane,  Surg.  Gen.,  1882-83.  North  Wall :  \.  M.  F.  X.  Bchat, 
1771-1802;  2.  Robert  Fletcher,  M.R.GS.,  Eng.,  Principal  Assist- 
ant Librarian,  (1876-1912)  ;  3.  Thomas  G.  Mower,  1790-1853. 

In  the  Smithsonian  grounds,  N.  W.  from  the  Medical 
Museum,  stands  a  bronze  statue  of  Prof.  Samuel  D.  Gross, 
M.D.  (1805-84),  modeled  by  Alexander  Sterling  Colder 
(1870-  ),  and  cast  in  Paris  by  Jaboeuf  &  Bazout.  It  was 
erected  in  1897  by  the  American  Surgical  Association,  and 
the  Alumni  Association  of  the  Jefferson  Medical  College. 
The  inscription  reads :  "American  Physicians  erected  this 
statue  to  commemorate  the  great  deeds  of  a  man  who  made 
such  an  impression  upon  American  surgery  that  it  has 
served  to  dignify  American  medicine.'* 


THE   MALL  251 

Midway  between  the  Army  Medical  Museum  and  the 
Old  Museum,  officially  known  as  the  Arts  and  Industries 
Building  of  the  National  Museum  (cor.  9th  and  B  Sts.  S.W.) 
stands  a  memorial  to  Louis  Jacques  Mande  Daguerre  (1789- 
1851),  inventor  of  the  Daguerreotype  process.  It  consists  of 
a  huge  sphere  of  polished  dark  gray  granite,  surmounting  a 
massive  square  pedestal.  Resting  against  the  sphere,  at  N.W. 
cor.,  is  a  bronze  medallion  portrait  of  Daguerre.  A  par- 
tially draped  female  figure  of  bronze,  life-size,  half  kneel- 
ing, is  draping  both  medallion  and  sphere  with  a  bronze 
garland.     Jonathan  Scott  Hartley,  sculptor. 

The  Arts  and  Industries  Building  is  described  on  p.  322. 

Immediately  adjoining  the  Old  Museum  on  the  W.,  is 
the  original  building  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  (PI.  I — 
B4),  out  of  which  have  grown  the  National  Museum,  the 
National  Art  Gallery,  and  various  other  activities,  all  of 
which,  except  the  Smithsonian  itself,  are  supported  by  appro- 
priations by  Congress.    For  description  isee  p.  255. 

South  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  is  a  group  of 
frame  buildings  constituting  the  Astrophysical  Observatory. 
This  observatory  investigates  the  radiation  of  the  sun,,  and 
its  relation  to  the  temperature  of  the  earth.  It  has  ob- 
servation stations  on  Mt.  Wilson,  Cal.,  Mt.  Harqua  Hala, 
Ariz,  and  Mt.  Montezuma,  Chile.  In  this  same  group  is  a 
small  metal  building  facing  on  B  St.,  S.  W.,  and  now  serving 
as  — 

The  Aircraft  Building  of  the  National  Museum.  It  con- 
tains a  collection  of  aircraft  and  accessories  illustrating  the 
progress  of  aeronautics  during  the  World  War.  Open  to  the 
public  week  days  from  9  A.  M.  to  4.30  P.  M. 

Immediately  W.  of  the  Astrophysical  Observatory,  at 
the  S.  W.  cor.  of  the  Smithsonian  grounds  (cor.  12th  and 
B  Sts.  SwW.)  is  the  new  Freer  Museum,  which  will  be  opened 
to  the  public  as  soon  as  the  collection,  recently  installed,  has 
been  completely  catalogued  and  arranged.  For  description 
see  p.  339- 

Directly  opposite  the  Smithsonian  Building  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Mall  is  the  recently  erected  "New  Museum,"  officially 
known  as  the  Natural  History  Building  of  the  National 
Museum  (for  description  see  p.  260).  About  100  ft.  S.  E.  of 
the  Museum  building  stands  a  Marble  Urn.  erected  as  "A 
Memorial  to  Andrew  Jackson  Downing  (1815-52)  a  Landscape 
Gardener  who  laid  out  the  parks  between  the  Capitol  and 
the  Potomac,  the  White  House  Park  and  Lafayette  Park." 


252  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

This  memorial  was  erected  in  accordance  with  a  resolution  passed 
at  Philadelphia  in  September,  1852,  by  the  American  Pomological 
Society,   of  which   Mr.   Downing  was  one  of  the  founders. 

e.     The  Agricultural  Department  Buildings 

The  Agricultural  Grounds  (PI.  I — A3),  occupy  the  sec- 
tion of  the  Mall  lying  between  12th  and  14th  Sts.,  comprising 
about  40  acres.  The  main  Administration  Building  and  princi- 
pal laboratories  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  are  situated 
on  the  southern  side,  while  the  Green-houses,  Plant  Quaran- 
tine, etc.,  are  on  the  north  side. 

History.  Although  the  Department  of  Agriculture  dates  only 
from  1862  as  an  independent  department,  it  traces  its  origin  back 
to  Washington  and  Franklin.  The  former,  in  his  last  message  to 
Congress,  advocated  the  organization  of  a  Government  branch  to 
care  for  the  interests  of  farmers;  while  Franklin,  when  Agent  of 
Pennsylvania  in  England,  sent  home  silk-worm  eggs  and  mulberry 
cuttings,  thus  setting  a  precedent  since  followed  by  U.  S.  Consuls  all 
over  the  world,  through  whose  efforts  new  and  valuable  species  of 
plants,   fruits   and  domestic   animals   have   been   successfully   introduced. 

The  official  history  of  the  department  dates  from  1839,  when 
Congress  made  a  first  appropriation  of  $1000.00  for  the  purpose  of 
distributing  seed,  investigating  agricultural  conditions  and  collecting 
statistics.  At  the  same  time  an  Agricultural  Bureau  was  created  as 
a  division  of  the  Patent  Office,  then  a  branch  of  the  Department  of 
State.  In  1848,  when  the  Department  _  of  the  Interior  was  created, 
the  Patent  Office  was  transferred  to  its  jurisdiction,  including  the 
Agricultural  branch.  The  latter  remained  under  the  direct  super- 
vision of  the  Commission  of  Patents  until  1862,  and  its  chief  activities 
were  still  the  distribution  of  seeds  and  publication  of  agricultural 
information.  Its  establishment  as  an  independent  department  dates 
from  the  appointment  of  the  first  Commissioner  of  Agriculture,  the 
Hon.  Isaac  Newton  (1862-67),  to  whom  the  present  department 
grounds  on  the  Mall  were  assigned  for  an  experimental  farm.  They 
could  not,  however,  be  used  for  this  purpose  until  the  close  of  the 
Civil  War,  being  needed  by  the  Army  for  a  cattle-yard.  Under  the 
second  Commissioner,  Gen.  Horace  Capron  (1867-71),  important  prog- 
ress was  made:  a  system  of  exchanges  of  seeds  and  plants  was 
established  with  many  foreign  governments;  the  Administration  Build- 
ing was  completed;  and  the  activities  of  the  department  extended  to 
include  five  divisions:  Chemistry,  Garden  and  Grounds,  Entomology, 
Statistics    and   Botany. 

In  1889,  largely  through  the  influence  of  the  Farmers'  Congress, 
the  department  was  raised  to  first  rank,  the  office  of  Commissioner 
abolished  and  a  new  Cabinet  officer,  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  created 
in  his  stead.  Since  then  the  growth  and  broadening  scope  of  the 
department  have  been  phenomenal.  To-day  it  includes  the  following 
Bureaus:  1.  Office  of  Farm  Management  and  Farm  Economics;  2. 
Weather  Bureau;  3,  Bureau  of  Animal  Industries;  4.  Bureau  of  Plant 
Industry;  5.  Bureau  of  Forestry;  6.  Bureau  of  Chemistry;  7.  Bureau  of 
Soils;  8..  Bureau  of  Entomology;  9.  Bureau  of  Biological  Survey;  10. 
Division  of  Publications;  11.  Bureau  of  Accounts  and  Disbursements; 
12.  States1  Relations  Service;  13.  Bureau  of  Public  Roads;  14.  Bureau 
of  Markets  and  Crop  Estimates;  15.  Packers  and  Stockyards  Administra- 
tion; 16.  Administration  of  Grain  Future  Trading  Act;  17.  Insecticide 
and  Fungicide  Board;  18.  Federal  Horticultural  Board;  19.  Fixed  Nitro- 
gen Research  Laboratory. 


THE   MALL  253 

The  Administration  Building,  a  plain  rectangular  red- 
brick structure  three  stories  and  mansard  roof,  erected  1867, 
formerly  contained  a  museum,  comprising  collections  of 
plants,  insects,  etc.  These  have  been  transferred  to  the 
National  Museum;  and  the  only  collections  now  in  the  Ag- 
ricultural buildings  are  for  laboratory  purposes  and  other 
work  of  the  department  and  are  not  open  to  the  public.  The 
office  of  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture  is  on  the  ground 
floor,  N.W.  cor.  It  contains  portraits  of  former  Secre- 
taries of  the  department:  1.  (E.  wall)  James  Wilson,  Sec. 
1897-1913,  by  William  M.  Chase;  2.  (W.  wall)  J.  Sterling 
Morton,  Sec.  1893-97,  by  Freeman  Thorp;  3.  (in  ante-room) 
Jeremiah  Rusk,  Sec.  1889-93 ;  4.  Norman  J.  Colman,  last  Com- 
missioner and  first  Secretary,  1885-89.  (Another  portrait  of 
Secretary  Wilson,  by  Freeman  Thorp,  said  to  be  a  better  like- 
ness than  the  Chase  portrait,  hangs  in  the  Chief  Clerk's  office 
diagonally  opposite). 

Immediately  behind  the  Administration  Building  is  a 
small,  square  structure  now  occupied  by  the  Bureau  of  En- 
tomology. The  New  Agricultural  Building,  when  completed, 
will  occupy  the  greater  part  of  the  S.  side  of  the  Agricul- 
tural Grounds ;  the  plans  call  for  a  large  central  building 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  and  connected  with  two  subordinate 
buildings  extending  E.  and  W.,  with  a  total  frontage  of  750 
ft.  Rankin,  Kellogg  &  Crane,  architects.  This  proposed 
building  was  a  pet  project  of  Secretary  Wilson  who,  find- 
ing that  he  could  not  obtain  from  Congress  a  sufficient 
appropriation  for  so  large  a  structure,  proceeded  with  the 
money  granted  to  erect  the  two  wings,  hoping  to  add  the 
main  central  building  later.  These  two  wings,  dating  from 
1907,  are  L-shaped  structures  on  the  Greek  order,  the  base- 
ment being  of  Medford  granite,  the  superstructure  of  Ver- 
mont marble,  and  red  tiles  for  the  roof.  The  main  fagades, 
facing  N.,  have  at  each  end  a  pavilion  with  six  Ionic  col- 
umns, three  in  front  and  three  on  the  side.  The  pavilions 
are  surmounted  by  pediments  containing  sculptured  groups 
consisting,  in  each  case,  of  a  pair  of  nude  seated  figures, 
supporting  between  them  a  shield  adorned  with  appropriate 
emblems  of  one  of  the  agricultural  products,  with  the  name 
inscribed    above.     Adolph   A.    Weinman,    sculptor. 

The  subjects  of  the  four  pediments  are  from  E.  to  W.,  as  follows: 
1.  Fruit;  2.  Flowers;  3.  Cereals;  4.  Forests.  When  first  erected  the 
shields  bore  the  names  in  Latin:  "Fructus,"  "Flores,"  "Cereales,"' 
"Forestes."  One  day  a  visitor  called  Secretary  Wilson's  attention  to 
the  fact  that  Forestes  was  not  classic  Latin,  and  suggested  that  it 
should  be  corrected;  whereupon  the  Secretary  decided  that  there  was 
no  good  reason  for  Latin  inscriptions  on  an  American  Government 
building,    and    had    them    replaced    with    the    English    equivalents. 


254  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

These  buildings  contain  nothing  of  interest  to  the  tour- 
ist, being  devoted  almost  wholly  to  laboratories. 

The  Library  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  is  in  the 
new  yellow  brick  building  facing  the  iMall,  on  B  St.  S.  W., 
near  14th  St.,  east  wing,  ground  floor.  The  library  is  in- 
tended primarily  for  use  in  the  work  of  the  Department, 
but  is  free  to  the  public  for  reference.  Open  9  A.M.  to  4 
P.M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays;  Saturdays  dur- 
ing summer  months,  9  A.M.  to  1  P.M. 

The  Library  dates  from  the  establishment  of  the  Department  of 
Agriculture  in  1862..  Its  present  resources  are  upward  of 
140,000  volumes  and  pamphlets.  Its  collections  are  strong  in  all 
branches  of  agriculture,  also  in  forestry,  botany,  applied  chemistry, 
pharmacy,  foods,  zoology,  especially  economic  entomology,  hunting 
and  game  preservation.  Connected  with  the  main  library  are  twelve 
Bureau  libraries  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  Weather  Bureau 
Library,  are  administered  as  branches  of  the  Department  library  and 
there  catalogued  and  charged.  It  is  claimed  that  this  collection 
constitutes  the  most  extensive  agricultural   library  in  the  world. 

The  Administration  Building  faces  a  large  square,  formal 
garden,  occupying  the  center  of  the  grounds,  with  a  terrace,  on 
the  N.  side,  descending  to  a  driveway  directly  on  line  with  13th 
St.,  and  flanked  by  exceptionally  fine  rows  of  Gingko  trees. 
This  avenue  brings  the  visitor  to  the  Green-houses.  Those 
on  the  W.  side  are  open  to  the  public  from  9  a.  m.  to  4.30  p.  m. 
Most  visitors  will  naturally  enter  the  gate  opposite  the  path- 
way on  S.  side  of  the  Green-houses,  but  will  find  that  the 
doors  to  many  of  the  houses  are  locked.  Just  outside  the 
grounds,  on  B  St.,  is  an  entrance  to  the  main  corridor  of 
the  building,  from  which  all  of  the  Green-houses  can  be 
readily  visited.  In  the  first,  or  easternmost,  house  is  still  pre- 
served the  parent  stem  of  the  Bahia,  or  Navel  Orange,  in 
America.  In  recent  years  this  tree  nearly  died  in  the  process 
of  transplanting,  and  three-quarters  of  its  girth  is  now  over- 
laid with  a  plastering  of  rubber.  The  attendant,  however, 
will  point  out  how  the  new  bark  is  slowly  covering  the  injured 
portion. 

The  Green-houses  on  the  E.  side  of  the  driveway,  ex- 
tending to  the  12th  St.  corner,  are  closed  to  the  public.  They 
are  occupied  by  the  Plant  Quarantine  Division  of  the  Bureau 
of   Plant  Industry. 

The  main  activities  of  this  Bureau  date  from  the  opening  of  the 
20th  century,  and  have  been  exerted  mainly  in  the  introduction  and 
popularization  of  new  varieties  of  foreign  cereals,  fruits,  vegetables, 
plants  and  trees.  It  was  presently  discovered  that  along  with  the 
beneficial  "Plant  Immigrants"  there  were  being  introduced  a  number 
of  destructive  foreign  insects  and  plant  diseases.  In  fact,  the  most 
serious  menaces  in  recent  years  to  American  agricultural  interests  have 
entered  this  country  from  abroad,  including  the  Cotton-boll  Weevil, 
the  Citrus  Canker  and  the  Pink  Boll  Fly. 


THE  SMITHSONIAN   INSTITUTION  255 

Consequently  a  most  important  field  for  this  bureau's  activities  is 
its  quarantine  work.  All  importations  of  foreign  plants,  seeds,  roots 
and  cuttings  are  subject  to  inspection,  small  consignments  at  port 
of  entry,  larger  ones  (upon  due  notice)  by  local  inspectors  at  the 
point  of  consignment.  All  specimens  found  diseased  or  doubtful  or 
imported  from  infected  zones  are  sent  to  the  Washington  green-houses 
for  study,  and  if  necessary  for  treatment,  and  not  released  until  it  is 
established  that  they  arei  free  from  any  diseases  or  parasite  harmful 
to  their  species  or  to  kindred  native  families  and  genera. 

Specialists  are  occasionally  permitted  to  inspect  the  methods  here 
employed.  But  to  the  casual  visitor  the  Quarantine  Department  is  as 
rigidly  closed   as  a  Small-pox   hospital. 

II.  The  Smithsonian  Institution — The  Smithsonian 

Building 

*The  Smithsonian  Institution,  constituting  to-day  one 
of  the  most  important  scientific  centers  of  the  world,  origi- 
nated in  the  curious  whim  of  an  Englishman  who  had  never 
even  visited  the  United  States.  James  Smithson  was  the 
natural  son  of  Sir  Hugh  Smithson,  first  Duke  of  Northum- 
berland. He  was  graduated  from  Oxford  in  1786,  and  subse- 
quently devoted  himself  to  scientific  studies,  specializing  in 
chemistry.  He  seems,  however,  to  have  had  no  settled  home, 
alternating  between  lodgings  in  London  and  lengthy  sojourns 
in  Paris,  Berlin,  Florence  and  Genoa,  in  which  last-named 
city  he  died,  June  27,  1829.  Thanks  to  the  generosity  of  the 
Duke,  his  father,  and  his  own  simple  habits,  he  left  a  fortune 
of  approximately  half  a  million  dollars,  which  he  willed  to 
his  nephew  for  life ;  and  in  the  event  of  the  latter  dying  with- 
out issue,  then  the  whole  of  the  property  was  left  "to  the 
United  States  of  America,  to  found  at  Washington,  under  the 
name  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  an  establishment  for  the 
increase  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men/'  The 
present  fame  of  the  Institution  goes  far  to  justify  the 
prophesy  made  by  its  founder,  that  his  name  should  "live  in 
the  memory  of  man  when  the  titles  of  the  Northumberlands 
and  the  (Percys  are  extinct  and  forgotten." 

Smithson's  nephew  died  without  heirs  in  1835.  Consequently  the 
property  reverted  to  the  United  States,  and  in  September,  1838,  after 
a  suit  in  Chancery,  the  bequest  was  paid  into  the  Federal  treasury. 
Its  disposition  was  for  several  years  before  Congress;  and  it  was  not 
until  August,  1846,  that  the  Smithsonian  Institution  was  founded  and 
an  act  passed  directing  the  formation  of:  1.  A  library;  2.  A  museum 
for  the  reception  of  collections  belonging  to  the  government;  3.  A 
gallery  of  art.  It  left  to  a  Board  of  Regents  the  power  of  adopting 
such  other  parts  of  an  organization  as  they  should  deem  best  suited 
to  promote  the  object  of  the  bequest.  Under  the  terms  of  the  act  there 
was  set  aside,  especially  reserved  for  the  purpose,  the  S.  W.  quarter 
of  the  square  of  land  inthe  Mall  extending  from  7th  to  12th  Sts.,  and 
now  known  as  Smithsonian*  Institution  Park  (p.  247). 


256  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  Board  of  Regents  subsequently  decided  upon  the  following 
general  plan  upon  which  the  operations  of  the  Institution  are  con- 
ducted: 

"To  Increase  Knowledge.  It  is  proposed:  i.  To  stimulate  men 
of  talent  to  make  original  researches,  by  offering  suitable  rewards 
for  memoirs  containing  new  truths;  and,  2.  To  appropriate  annually 
a  portion  of  the  income  for  particular  researches,  under  the  direction 
of   suitable  persons. 

"To  Diffuse  Knozvledge.  It  is  proposed:  1.  To  publish  a  series 
of  periodical  reports  on  the  progress  of  the  different  branches  of  knowl- 
edge; and,  2.  To  publish,  occasionally,  separate  treatises  on  subjects 
of  general  interest." 

The  Institution  is  unique  in  representing  the  only  instance  up  to 
that  time  in  which  a  trust  of  this  nature  had  been  accepted  by  the  Ameri- 
can government.  Its  controlling  body  consists  of  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  the  Vice-President,  the  Chief  Justice,  and  the  members 
of  the  Cabinet,  ex-officio.  There  is  also  a  Board  of  Regents,  consisting  ot 
the  Viqe-President  and  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States,  three  Sena- 
tors, three  Members  of  the  House  of  Rpresentatives  and  six  other 
eminent  persons  nominated  by  a  joint  resolution  of  the  Senate  and  the 
House  of  Representatives.  The  Board  elects  one  of  its  number  as 
Chancellor.  It  alsol  elects  a  Secretary,  who  is  the  executive  officer  of 
the  Institution,  and  the  Director  of  its  activities.  The  duties  of  this 
Board  are  to  administer  the  foundation  fund  of  the  Institution  and  to 
make  annual  reports  of  the  same-  to  Congress.  The  publications  of  the 
Institution  are  in  threei  principal  issues:  1.  "Contributions  to  Knowl- 
edge";   2.    "Miscellaneous   Collections";    3.    "Annual    Reports." 

The  Smithsonian  Building.  This,  the  oldest  of  the  group 
of  buildings  in  the  Smithsonian  Institution  Park,  is  a  pic- 
turesque structure  in  the  later  Norman  or  Lombard  style  of 
Architecture  in  vogue  during  the  last  half  of  the  twelfth 
century,  and  representing  the  latest  variety  of  the  rounded 
style  immediately  preceding  the  advent  of  Gothic.  The  ma- 
terial is  a  lilac-gray  freestone  from  quarries  near  the  mouth 
of  Seneca  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Potomac,  twenty-three 
miles  N.  of  Washington.  This  stone  has  the  advantage  of 
being  soft  when  first  quarried  and  hardening  upon  exposure 
to  the  weather.  The  plans  were  drawn  by  James  Renwick, 
Jr.,  subsequently  architect  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  New 
York  City.  The  cornerstone  of  the  Institution  was  laid  in 
May,  1847,  with  Masonic  ceremonies,  in  the  presence  of 
President  Polk  and  a  large  throng  of  spectators.  The  build- 
ing was  completed  in  1855. 

Renwick's  design  as  originally  carried  out  consisted  of  a  main 
central  building,  two  stories  high,  and  two  lateral  wings  each  con- 
sisting of  a  single  story,  and  connecting  with  the  main  building;  by 
intervening  ranges,  each  of  the  latter  having  a  cloister  with  an 
open  stone  screen  on  the  northern  front.  The  only  important  changes 
that  have  since  been  made  are  the  reconstruction  of  the  eastern 
wing  and  range  (raised  to  four  and  three  stories  respectively),  the 
closing  m  of  the  western  cloister  (for  laboratory  purposes),  and 
complete  fire-proofing  of  the  whole  building.  The  necessity  of  this  last 
mentioned   improvement   was   painfully   taught   by   the   disastrous   fire   of 


THE   SMITHSONIAN   INSTITUTION  257 

1865,  which  destroyed  the  upper  part  of  the  main  huilding  and  with 
it  the  official,  scientific  and  miscellaneous  correspondence,  the  record 
books  and  manuscripts  in  the  Secretary's  office,  Stanley's  gallery  of 
Indian  portraits  and  the  personal   effects  of  James  Smithson. 

The  dimensions  of  the  building  as  it  now  stands  are  as  follows: 
extreme  length  447  ft.;  main  central  structure  205  ft.  long  by  57 
ft.  wide  and  58  ft.  high  to  top  of  corbel  course.  In  the  centre  of 
the  facade  of  the  main  building  are  two  towers,  the  higher  rising 
to  a  height  of  145  ft.  In  the  middle  of  the  S.  front  is  a  single  massive 
tower  37  ft.  square  and  91  ft.  high.  From  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  the 
main  building  rises  a  double  campanile  tower  17  ft.  square  and  117  ft. 
to  the  top  of  the  finial;  while  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  is  a  lofty  octagonal 
tower  containing  a  spiral  stairway.  These  main  towers,  together  with 
four  smaller  ones,  were  thej  cause  of  one  sarcastic;  critic's  simile  of 
"a  collection  of  church  steeples  which  had  gotten  lost  and  were 
consulting  as  to  the  best  means  of  getting  home  to  their  respective 
churches." 

The  eastern  wing,  now  devoted  to  the  offices  of  administration, 
was  for  many  years  the  home  of  Prof.  Joseiph  Henry,  the  Institution's 
first  Secretary.  Here  also  Secretary  Langley  pursued  his  investigations 
in    aerodynamics,    resulting    in    the    invention    of    the    flying    machine. 

The  only  rooms  in  the  Smithsonian  building  now  accessible 
to  the  public  are  the  main  central  gallery,  the  S.  pavilion  and 
the  western  range  and  wing.  The  visitor  enters  through  the 
man  doorway  in  the  middle  of  the  northern  side.  To  the  L.  of 
the  vestibule,  in  an  alcove  closed  by  a  grating,  is  the  Mortuary 
Chapel  of  James  Smithson.  It  contains  a  marble  sarco- 
phagus surmounted  by  an  urn,  marking  the  last  resting-place 
of  the  Institution's  founder.  His  grave  was  formerly  in  the 
English  cemetery  near  Genoa,  Italy,  but  in  1906  his  remains 
were  brought  to  this  oountry  and  placed  beneath  the  orginal 
monument  bought  from  Genoa. 

On  the  wall  immediately  S.  of  the  alcove  is  a  bronze 
memorial  tablet  to  Samuel  Pierpont  Langley  (1824-1906), 
Secretary  of  the  Institution — 1887-1906.  Between  the  vesti- 
bule and  main  gallery,  in  the  narrow  hallway  from  which 
stairs  ascend  to  R.  and  L.,  are  two  wall  cases  containing 
Personal  Relics  of  James  Smithson.  These  include  several 
autograph  pages ;  a  couple  of  published  monographs  by 
Smithson  on  scientific  topics ;  a  miniature  of  Smithson  by 
Johns,  painted  in  1816;  miniature  of  Col.  Henry  Lewis  Dick- 
inson, a  half-brother  of  Smithson ;  Smithson's  matriculation 
register  of  Oxford  University,  dated  1782,  in  whch  he  has 
signed  himself  Jacobus  Ludovicus  Macie  (the  name  first 
adopted  by  Smithson  from  his  mother,  Elizabeth  Macie;  a 
photograph  of  Smithson's  former  grave,  Genoa,  Italy;  two 
commissions  from  King  George  III  to  Col.  Dickinson ;  and 
most  interesting  of  all,  Smithson's  last  will  and  testament  in 
his  own  handwriting,  in  which  the  bequest  for  the  founding 


258  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  may  still  be  read;  the  word 
"Washington"  in  the  upper  line  of  the  right-hand  page  ii 
especially  distinct. 

The  Exhibition  of  Graphic  Arts,  forming  part  of  the 
National  Museum  collections,  now  occupies  the  greater  part 
of  the  galleries  open  to  the  public.  It  comprises  exhibits  on 
the  development  of  writing,  illustrating,  printing  and  the 
reproductive  arts.  Since  special  stress  is  laid  upon  the 
material  side  of  art,  the  cocllection  includes  not  only  manu- 
scripts, drawings  and  prints,  but  papers,  canvasses,  pencils, 
brushes,  colors,  inks,  types,  tools  and  machinery.  It  is  gen- 
erally conceded  to  be  the  largest  exhibit  of  its  kind  in  the 
world. 

Main  Central  Gallery,  East  Section.  (N.  side,  W.  to 
E.)  :  Case  I.  The  History  of  Writing,  including  specimens 
of  pietographs  (earliest  known  form  of  writing),  photographs 
of  tablets  giving  account  of  the  Deluge,  papyrus  manuscripts, 
copy  of  the  Rosetta  Stone ;  Case  2.  Samples  of  early  printing, 
including  first  Chinese  newspaper,  Horn  Books,  etc. ;  Case 
3.  Original  drawings  in  various  mediums,  crayon,  miniature 
painting,  etc.;  Case  4.  Wash-drawings,  black-and-white,  pen- 
and-ink,  water  colors,  including  early  Chinese  water  color; 
also  bladders  of  paints  used  before  the  invention  of  modern 
lead  tubes;  (!S.  side,  E.  to  W.)  :  Case  5.  Manufacture  of 
printing  inks,  from  the  flaxseed  to  the  finished  product — each 
exhibit  fully  labelled ;  Case  6.  Processes  of  making  hand- 
made paper  and  of  water-marking;  Case  7.  Reproduction  of 
a  16th  century  type  foundry  and  two  books  completed  entirely 
by  ithe  work  of  the  donor,  Dard  Hunter,  who  made  the 
punches,  cast  the  type  and  printed  it  on  his  own  hand-made 
paper;  also  other  examples  of  modern  printing;  Case  8. 
Exhibit  of  modern  type  compared  with  16th  century  type; 
also  models  of  first  movable  metal  type  ever  made  (Corea, 
1403),  from  originals  in  the  American  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  N.  Y. 

Main  Central  Gallery.  West  Section.  Seven  cases 
devoted  to  history  of  wood  engraving,  showing:  1.  How  box- 
wood blocks  are  made,  and  the  tools  with  which  the  work  is 
done;  2.  Modern  method  of  making  a  wood  block  (hard 
maple y  for  color  work;  3.  Exhibit  of  old  color  prints,  1600- 
18 12,  ranging  from  two  to  twelve  printings ;  4.  Wood  blocks 
by  Timothy  Cole,  and  one  original  block  by  Alexander  Ander- 
son, the  first  American  engraver  who  made  wood  engravings 
extensively.  A  central  case,  at  W.  end,  contains  an  Industrial 
Group,  showing  the  Japanese  method  of  cutting  wood  blocks 


THE   SMITHSONIAN   INSTITUTION  259 

and  printing  wood  cuts,  from  the  uncut  block  to  the  finished 
print  in  25  colors. 

West  End  Cases.  Six  cases  illustrating  the  History  of 
Engraving,  beginning  with  an  early  specimen  dating  from 
1448. 

The  W.  door  of  the  main  hall  leads  into  the  — 

Press  Room.  This  hall  contains,  besides  exhibits  of 
lithography  and  etching,  several  old  printing  presses,  including 
the  Bradford  Press  (1693),  said  to  be  the  first  printing  press 
used  in  New  York  City;  the  first  printing  press  to  use  the 
toggle  joint  (1819),  invented  by  Wells;  also  an  early  linotype 
(1885).     Continuing  W.,  we  next  enter  — 

The  Chapel,  a  large  hall  at  extreme  W.  of  the  building, 
containing  reproductive  processes  based  upon  photography, 
and  a  few  substitute  processes.  The  exhibits  include :  First 
recorded  success  in  photogravure,  by  Nicephore  Niepce 
(1826)  ;  Screen  for  making  photogravures,  invented  by  Gen. 
von  Egloffstein  (1865),  and  screens  used  today  in  rotary 
intaglio ;  early  specimens  of  Karl  Klic's  photogravure  process 
(1894)  ',  exhibits  showing  Ives  method  of  makng  half-tones 
(1881)  ;  set  of  13  Levy  half-tone  screens,  from  50  to  400  lines 
to  the  inch  :  Collotype  process  for  printing  from  gelatine  films. 
Other  exhibits  include  the  Ben  Day  rapid  shading  mediums, 
nature  printing,  wax  engraving  and  electrotyping,  both  wax 
and  lead' processes,  and  McKee  processes  of  putting  the  over- 
lay in  the  plate  itself. 

At  the  northern  end  of  the  Chapel  is  now  housed  Horatio 
Greenough's  much  discussed  Statue  of  Washington.  This  statue  repre- 
sents Washington  clad  in  a  Roman  toga  and  seated  in.  a  Curule  chair, 
with  one  arm  raised  in  a  gesture  of  warning  and  advice.  This  statue 
was  ordered  by  Congress  in  1832  to  commemorate  the  centennial  of 
Washington's  birth.  The  sculptor  spent  no  less  than  eight  years  upon 
it  and  received  the  sum  of  $20,000  in  payment.  The  statue  formerly 
faced  the  main  entrance  to  the  Capitol;  it  was  found,  however,  that 
exposure  to  the  weather  was  seriously  affecting  the  Carrara  marble 
from    which    it   was   carved. 

Smithsonian  Bureaus.  There  are  seven  branches  under  the 
charge  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  the  expenses  of  which 
are  sustained  by  annual-governmental  appropriation.  These 
are: 

1.  The  United  States  National  Museum,  the  depository  of 
the  national  collections.  It  is  especially  rich  in  the  natural 
history  of  America,  including :  zoology,  paleontology  and 
ethnology  (see  Natural  History  Building,  p.  260),  and  has 
extensive  series  relating  to  American  history  and  the  arts  and 
industries  (see  Old  Museum  p.  322).  Under  "History"  are 
included  the  World  War  Collection  which  has  been  accumu- 


260  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

lated  with  co-operation   of   the  War  and   Navy  Departments, 
and  already  comprised  some  35,ooo  objects    (see  p.  266). 

2.  The  National  Gallery  of  Art  including  the  Freer  Gallery 
(see  p.  271  and  p.  339). 

3.  The  International  Exchange  Service :  the  agency  of  the 
United  States  Government  for  exchange  of  scientific,  literary 
and  governmental  publications  with  foreign  governments  and 
institutions,  receiving  and  dspatchinig  about  600,000  pounds  of 
printed  matter  annually. 

4.  The  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology,  engaged  in  the 
collection  and  publication  of  knowledge  relating  to  American 
Indians,  and  the  natives  of  Hawaii. 

5.  The  Astrophysical  Observatory,  engaged  in  investigat- 
ing solar  radiation  and  related  phenomena. 

6.  The  National  Zoological  Park   (p.  444). 

7.  The  International  Catalogue  of  Scientific  Literature. 
This  organization  consists  of  a  Central  Bureau  in  London,  and 
33  regional  bureaus  in  the  principal  countries  of  the  world. 
That  for  the  United  States  is  administered  by  the  Smithsonian 
Institution. 

III.     The  Smithsonian  Institution— The  Natural 
History  Building 

(The  "New''  National  Museum) 

The  Natural  History  Building  of  the  United  States 
National  Museum,  popularly  known  as  the  "New  Mus- 
eum," (PI.  I — B3)  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Mall 
directly  opposite  the  buildings  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution, 
and  with  its  main  entrance  almost  in  line  with  10th  St.,  is 
a  rectangular  granite  structure  four  stories  in  height,  and 
covering  an  area  of  about  four  acres.  It  is  on  the  modern 
classic  order  of  architecture,  with  a  distinct  French  influence 
shown  in  the  mansard  roof  and  dormer  windows.  The  mate- 
rial of  the  exterior  walls  consists  of  three  varieties  of  granite: 
the  ground  story  being  of  pink  or  a  warm  gray  Milford  (Mass.) 
granite;  the  two  main  stories  of  white  granite  from  Bethel 
(Vt.)  and  the  attic  story  of  a  nearly  white  granite  from 
M,t.  Airy  (N.  C).  Homblower  &  Marshall,  Architects. 

a.     General  Description 

There  are  two  entrances :  one  from  the  Mall,  on  S.  side, 
opening  into  the  first  or  main  floor ;  the  other,  on  the  N.  side, 
opening  from  B  St.  into  the  ground  story  floor. 

Hours:  The  Museum  is  open  to  the  public,  free,  week-days,  9  A.  M. 
to  4.30  P.  M.;   Sundays,   1.30  to  4.30  P.  M. 


t-  £ 


262  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

A  broad  approach  of  granite  steps,  broken  by  an  inter- 
mediate platform,  leads  up  to  a  Roman-Corinthian  portico 
at  the  .south  main  entrance,  supported  by  eight  columns,  the 
capitals  of  which  are  patterned  after  those  of  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter  Staior,  at  Rome.  This  portico  opens  into  a  large 
pavilion  and  rotunda,  from  which  three  wings  diverge  to  the 
N.,  E.  and  W.,  respectively.  Each  wing  consists  of  a  central 
sky-lighted  hall,  side  aisles  and  an  end  pavilion.  Two  L-shaped 
ranges,  extending  N.  from  the  S.  W.  and  S.  E.  pavilions,  con- 
nect with  the  pavilion  of  the  N.  wing,  and  complete  the  en- 
closure of  two  spacious  inner  courts  (128  ft.  sq.  each).  The 
outer  dimensions  of  a  building  are:  length  of  S.  front, 
561   ft;    N.   front,  499  ft;   E.  and   W.    sides,  313   ft. 

The  Rotunda  deserves  more  than  a  passing  word.  In 
form  it  is  an  irregular  octagon,  rising  through  three  stories 
and  culminating  in  a  noble  dome  formed  of  Gustavino  tiles. 
It  is  supported  on  four  massive  piers,  so  placed  as  to  form 
the  alternate  shorter  sides  of  the  octagon.  The  screens  be- 
tween the  piers  are  practically  identical  in  composition  in  each 
of  the  three  tiers,  consisting  of  four  unfluted  monolithic 
columns  of  breccia  staszina  marble,  the  only  difference  being 
that  in  the  first-story  tier  they  are  of  the  order  of  mutulary 
Doric,  while  the  second  and  third  tiers  are  Roman  Ionic.  The 
widest  diameter  of  the  Rotunda  is  83  ft.  5J/2  in.  The  inside 
diameter  of  the  dome  at  base  is  71  ft. 

The  visitor  should  also  note  the  floors  of  the  Rotunda  and  gal- 
leries. The  former  is  of  roseal  Tennessee  marble,  with  borders 
of  green  serpentine  and  Cipollino.  The  gallery  floors  are  of  pink  Ten- 
nessee marble,  with  borders  of  Sienna  marble.  The  wall  bases,  plinths 
fof  door  trim,  etc.,  are  of  the  samei  material  as  the  floorings. 

Lavatories  for  Men  and  for  Women  are  situated  in  the  North 
Wing  of  the  ground  story,  the  former  on  the  west  side,  the  latter  on 
the   east. 

A  catalogue  of  the  collections  of  the  National  Gallery  of  Art  is 
now  in  press.  A  special  illustrated  catalogue  of  the  Ralph  Cross 
Johnson  Collection  of,  Paintings  is  on  sale)  in  the  room  containing  these 
works.  There  are  no  other  official  catalogues  on  sale  of  any  of  the 
collections  in  this  Museum.  Monographs  of  certain  portions  of  the 
exhibits  have  been  from  time  to  time  prepared  by  the  Smithsonian  Insti- 
tution and  may  be  found  among  its  publications. 

The  museum  contains  four  passenger  elevators,  two  in  the  main 
pavilion  at  E.  of  entrance;  the  other  two  W.  of  N.  entrance. 

Division  of  space.  The  total  available  floor  space  of  the 
museum  is  468,118  sq.  ft.  At  present  more  than  half  this 
space  is  open  to  the  public,  the  exhibits  occupying  all  of  the 
first  and  second  stories,  with  the  exception  of  one  range,  as 
well  as  the  north  wing  and  pavilion  and  northwest  range  of 
the  ground  story.  The  collections  of  Natural  History,  Anthropol- 
ogy, Biology,  etc.,  which  legitimately  belong  in  this  building, 


THE  NEW  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  263 

are  at  present  seriously  crowded  because  of  the  necessity  of 
making  room  for  two*  other  collections :  I.  The  National 
Gallery  of  Art  (p.  271)  and  II:  The  World  War  His- 
torical Collection  (p.  266),  both  of  which  will  eventually 
be  housed  in  buildings  of  their  own.  At  present  the  War 
Exhibits  occupy  the  main  floor  Rotunda  and  the  north  wing 
and  northwest  range  of  the  ground  story.  The  'National  Gallery 
of  Art  is  housed  mainly  in  the  Central  Hall  of  the  N.  wing 
and  the  'N.  pavilion,  together  with  the  entrance  pavilion  of 
the  ground  story.  There  are  no  Natural  History  exhibits  in  the 
ground  story.  The  first  story  (apart  from  the  rooms  occupied 
by  the  National  Gallery  of  Art),  is  divided  almost 
equally  between  the  exhibits  of  Anthropology,  Biology  and 
Geology.  The  aisles  and  pavilion  of  the  N.  wing,  together  with 
the  northern  sections  of  both  ranges,  are  occupied  by  the 
Ethnological  collection;  the  western  wing  and  adjacent  section 
of  the  western  range  are  occupied  by  the  collections  of  Mam- 
mals and  Birds ;  the  eastern  wing  contains  the  collections  of 
Paleontology;  and  the  adjoining  section  of  the  eastern  wing 
is  devoted  to  Physical  and  Chemical  Geology.  Second  story : 
the  W.  wing  and  W.  range  are  occupied  mainly  by  collections 
of  Reptiles,  Fishes.  Invertebrates  and  Osteological  and  various 
special  exhibits ;  the  N.  wing  and  eastern  range  contains 
Anthropological  exhibits,  illustrative  of  American  and  old- 
world  Archaeology ;  the  eastern  wing  is  devoted  to  Geology 
(minerals  and  gems,  also  building  and  useful  stones). 

b.     The  Vestibule  and  North  Pavilion 

The  visitor  approaching  the  museum  from  the  N.  will 
find  it  most  convenient  to  enter  through  the  northern  or  B  St. 
doorway,  which  opens  directly  into  the  ground  story.  In  the 
vestibule,  on  L.  of  entrance,  is  a  bronze  panel  in  high  relief, 
representing  An  Incident  of  the  Mexican  War,  by  Isidore 
Konti   (1862-       ). 

The  army  sent  from  Santa  Fe  to  oocupy  California  was  met  and 
defeated  by  the  Mexicans  at  San  Pasquale.  The  American  forces 
were  driven  upon  a  butte  in  the  desert  on  which  there  was  no  water, 
and  there  surrounded  by  Mexicans.  Edward  F.  Beale  and  Kit  Carson, 
both  famous  explorers  of  the  West,  volunteered  to  slip  through  the 
Mexican  lines  and  obtain  reinforcements  from  Stetson's  fleet  at  San 
Diego.  The  artist  has  represented  them  at  the  moment  when  they 
discover  the  fleet. 

Opposite,  at  R.  end  of  the  vestibule  are  the  *Bronze 
Doors  for  the  W.  entrance  of  the  United  States  Capitol, 
designed  and  modeled  in  1910  by  Professor  Louis  Amateis', 


264  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

of  Washington.  They  consist  of  a  transom  and  two  doors 
with  an  ornamental  frame,  all  of  bronze.  The  dimensions 
of  the  doors  are  7  ft.  8j4  in.  wide,  and  9  ft.  6  in.  high; 
the  height,  including  transom  and  frame,  is  13  ft.  10  in. 

The  transom  represents  "The  Apotheosis  of  America";  America  is 
represented  seated  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  lions  (typical  of  strength), 
and  led  by  a  child  (signifying  the  superiority  of  the  intellect  over  brute 
force).  Beside  the  chariot  are  figures  representing  Education,  Archi- 
tecture, Literature,  Painting,  Music,  Sculpture.  Mining,  Commerce  and 
Industry.  At  R.  and  L.  of  transom  are  statuettes  representing  respec- 
tively, Thomas  Jefferson  and  Benjamin  Franklin.  At  the  four  corners 
of  this  panel  are  medallion  portraits  of  George  Peabody,  Ralph  Waldo 
Emerson,    Horace    Mann   and   Johns    Hopkins. 

The  eight  panels  of  the  doors  (from  upper  left-hand  panel  down- 
ward) represent:  1.  Jurisprudence;  2.  Science;  3.  Fine  Arts;  4.  Min- 
ing; 5-  (upper  right-hand  panel),  Agriculture;  6.  Iron  and  Electricity; 
7.  Engineering;  8.  Naval  Architecture  and  Commerce.  Each  panel  is 
flanked  by  statuettes  and  medallions  of  men  famous  in  these  several 
lines   of   achievement. 

I.  Jurisprudence.  This  panel  represents  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States,  with  Chief  Justice  John  Marshall  presiding.  Stat- 
uettes: (R.)  James  Madison;  (L.)  Daniel  Webster.  Medallions: 
Patrick  Henry,  Chief  Justice  Roger  B.  Taney  and  Rufus  Choate. 

II.  Science.  A  group  of  world's  greatest  scientists,  from  Hippar- 
chus,  the  Egyptian  astronomer,  to  Charles  Darwin.  Statuettes:  (R.) 
Joseph  Henry,  physicist;  (L.)  Oliver  Wolcott  Gibbs,  chemist.  Medal- 
lions: James  D.  Dana,  geologist;  Simon  Newcomb,  astronomer;  Alex- 
ander Graham  Bell,  inventor  of  the  telephone;  and  Samuel  F.  B. 
Morse,   inventor  of   the  telegraph. 

III.  Fine  Arts.  This  is  represented  by  a  group  including  Homer, 
Virgil,  Dante,  Shakespeare,  Goethe,  Hugo,  Palestrina,  Beethoven  and 
Rossini.  Statuettes:  Edgar  Allan  Poe  and  William  Thornton,  architect 
of  the  original  Capitol.  Medallions:  (R.)  H.  K.  Brown  and  (L.) 
Gilbert    Stuart. 

IV.  Mining.  This  represents  a  scene  in  a  mine.  Statuettes:  (R.) 
Alexander  Holley,  metallurgist;  (L.)  James  W.  Marshall,  discoverer  of 
gold  in  California.  Medallions:  (R.  to  L.)  Abram  S.  Hewitt,  states- 
man;   Clarence   King,   geologist;   E.   B.   Case,   engineer. 

V.  Agriculture.  A  harvest  scene.  Statuettes:  (R.)  James  Wilson, 
agriculturist;  (L.)  Samuel  G.  Morton,  ethnologist.  Medallions:  (R. 
to  L.)  Benjamin  Bussey,  agricultural  chemist;  Justin  S.  Morrill,  United 
States  Senator;   J.   P.,  Norton,  agricultural  chemist. 

VI.  Iron  and  Electricity.  Scene  showing  group  of  iron  and 
electric  workers.  Statuettes:  (R.)  H.  A.  Rowland,  physicist;  (L.) 
Peter  Cooper,  philanthropist.  Medallions:  (R.)  Thomas  A.  Edison, 
inventor;    (L.)    Matthias  W.   Baldwin,  founder  of  locomotive  works. 

'VII.  Engineering.  A  scene  with  workers  laying  railroad  tracks. 
In  the  background  is  a  long  bridge.  Statuettes:  (R.)  Thomas  L. 
Casey,  engineer;  (L.)  James  B.  Eads,  builder  of  the  St.  Louis  Bridge. 
Medallions:  (R.)  Stevens,  founder  of  Stevens  Institute;  (L.)  Wash- 
ington  L.   Roebling,   builder  of   the  Brooklyn    Bridge. 

VIII.  Naval  Architecture  and  Commerce.  A  Figure  typifying 
Architecture  is  showing  to  Commerce,  Industry  and  Agriculture,  on  a 
globe  held  by  a  youth,  the  places  where  they  can  dispose  of  their  wares. 
A  sailor  wearing  a  liberty  cap  symbolizes  the  "open  door"  policy.  Stat- 
uettes: (R.)  John  Ericsson,  inventor  of  the  Monitor;  (L.)  Robert 
Fulton,  inventor  of  the  steamboat.     Medallions:    (upper  R.)  Elias  Howe, 


THE  NEW  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  265 

inventor  of  the  sewing  machine;  (upper  L.)  Eli  Whitney,  inventor  of 
the  cotton  gin;  (helow,  R.  to  L.)  John  Lenthall,  naval  constructor; 
Cyrus  W.  Field,  layer  of  first  Atlantic  cable;  John  C.  Fremont, 
the  "Pathfinder." 

These  doors  are  temporarily  deposited  here,  awaiting  the  contem- 
plated remodeling  of  the  West  front  of  the  Capitol. 

From  the  vestibule,  we  enter  directly  the  spacious  Lobby, 
finished  in  white  marble  and  containing  the  following  sculp- 
tures and  paintings : 

(W.  to  E.)  I.  Frederick  J.  Waugh,  The  Knight  of  the 
Ho<ly  Grail  (painting)  ;  2.  Derwcnt  Wood,  William  Pitt,  Earl 
of  Chatham  (Marble  statue  presented  in  1915,  by  American 
women  living  in  the  United  Kingdom,  as  a  memorial  of  the 
hundred     years     peace     between     England     and     America)  ; 

3.  Preston  Poivers,  Bust  of  Justin   Smith  Morrill    (marble)  ; 

4.  Bronze  Image  of  "The  Buddha  of  Five  Wisdoms,"  Toku- 
gawa   Period. 

According  to  Japanese  inscription  on  back  of  Buddha,  the  image 
was  made  by  Saburo-biyoye  Katsutane,  and  offered  to  the  Temple  of 
Joshozan  Soan,  in  Yamada,  Seishui  in  1648. 

5.  Attributed  to  Harriet  Hosmer,  Esmeralda  (marble)  ; 
6.  Henry  Kitson,  Victor  Emanuel  III  (bronze  bust)  ;  7.  Vhv- 
nie  Ream  HoxAie,  Sappho  (marble)  ;  8.  Joseph  Mosier,  II 
Penseroso  (marble)  ;  9.  Henry  H.  Kitson,  James  Bryce, 
Ambassador  to  United  States,  1907-13  (bronze  bust)  ;  10. 
Elisabet  Ncy,  Mrs.  Siddons  as  Lady  Macbeth  (marble)  ; 
n.  Edward  Moran,  First  recognition  of  the  American  Flag 
by  a  Foreign  Government  (painting)  ;  12.  Ferdinand  Pettrich, 
Statue  of  George  Washington  (plaster  model)  ;  13.  Edward 
Kemeys,  Panther  and  Cubs  (bronze)  ;  14.  Model  of  Columns 
(actual  size)  from  iPortal  of  Maya  Temple  in  the  prehistoric 
City  of  Chichen  Itza,  Yucatan;  15.  Edward  Kemeys,  The 
Still  Hunt  (bronze)  ;  16.  Edward  Moran,  Burning  of  the 
Frigate  Philadelphia  (painting)  ;  17.  Andrew  O'Connor, 
Model  of  proposed  monument  to  Commodore  John  Barry, 
"Father  of  the  United  States  Navy";  18.  Edward  Moran, 
Midnight  Mass  on  the  Mississippi  (painting)  ;  19.  The 
Same.  The  Brig  Armstrong  Engaging  a  British  Fleet;  20. 
Branko  Dechkovitch,  The  Victory  of  Liberty  (gift  of  the 
sculptor)  ;  21.  Ferdinand  Pettrich,  Death  of  Tecumseh 
(marble). 

The  Northeast  Range,  entered  by  door  on  L.,  contains 
Administrative  Offices  and  the  small  but  important  Library 
of  the  National  Museum,  containing  the  collection  of  works 
relating  to  the  field  covered  by  the  Museum  exhibits.  Open 
to  the  public  for  reference  only,  week  days,  9  A.  M.  to 
4:30  P.  M. 


266  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

c.     The  World  War  Historical  Collection 

Northwest  Range:  World  War  Historical  Collection. 
While  this  is  a  temporary  installment,  it  may  remain  several 
years,  as  no  definite  plans  for  an  adequate  building  have  yet 
been  made.  The  exhibits  comprise  mainly  uniforms  and  equip- 
ment, guns  and  ammunition  and  original  paintings  for  war- 
time posters.  Through  the  W.  door  of  the  Lobby  we  enter 
the— 

Northwest  Range,  North  Aisle.  The  center  of  this  aisle 
is  occupied  by  15  large  cases,  beginning  with  E.  Wall  Case : 

I.  Belgian  Uniforms;  2.  War  Decorations:  British,  French, 
Belgian,  German,  Austrian,  Bulgarian  and  Turkish;  3.  Uni- 
forms :  British,  Japanese  and  United  States ;  4.  Rifles,  bay- 
onets, etc.,  French  and  German ;  5.  German  Uniforms,  includ- 
ing one  actually  worn  by  Chancellor  Bethmann-Hollweg;  6. 
German  Field  equipment,  including  knapsacks,  field  maps,  etc. ; 
also  New  Zealand  insignia;  7.  German  army  uniforms,  Cor- 
poral, private,  etc. ;  Austrian  uniforms,  Prince,  General,  Major, 
Captain ;  8.  German  food  containers ;  9.  Austrian  uniforms 
continued ;    Turkish  uniforms ;    10.     German   epaulettes,   etc. ; 

II.  Italian  uniforms;  12.  German  swords  and  Ibayonets,  also 
helmets  and  caps  used  in  Turkish  service;  13.  Italian  army 
uniforms  continued;  14.  German  weapons  continued;  pistols, 
bayonets  and  swords;  15.  (W.  Wall  Case),  Italian  uniforms 
continued,  including  the  uniform  of  General  Diaz. 

West  Aisle,  Central  Cases  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  (N.  Wall  Case), 
German  shells  and  shell  baskets ;  2.  German  shells  continued : 
1916  pattern  field  gun  shells ;  75  mm.  light  minenwerf  er  smoke 
shells,  etc. ;  3.  German  gas  alarms ;  4.  French  trace  shells, 
incendiary  shells,  gas  shells,  etc.;  5.  French  flame  projectors; 
German  smoke  producers ;  6.  British  respirators,  P.  H.  hel- 
mets, etc.,  French  'masks ;  7.  Italian  smoke  candles,  Austrian 
incendiary  bombs ;  8.  Italian,  German  and  Austrian  masks ; 
9.  British  Livens  projector,  etc.  10.  British  electric  detona- 
tor; German  projectors;  11.  British  mortars;  12.  Hand  gre- 
nades, position  lights,  rifles,  etc. ;  13.  Rangefinders ;  14-16. 
Browning  machine  gun  and  other  types  of  machine  guns ; 
17.  Incendiary  bombs;  H.  C.  B.  bomb  Mark  III,  etc.  18. 
Artillery  and  cavalry  sabres ;  19.  French  Chauchat  automatic 
rifle;  20.  (S.  Wall  Case),  Army  spades  and  shovels,  Amer- 
ican and  English.  Extending  beside  Cases  15-19  is:  The 
Propelling  Machinery  from  ex-German  Submarine  U.  B.  148. 
In  returning  to  entrance  the  visitor  may  now  inspect  the  right- 
hand  Wall  Cases: 


THE  WORLD   WAR   COLLECTION  267 

E.  Wall  Cases  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Italian  mustard  gas  suit 
and  mittens ;  2-3.  French  mustard  gas  suits,  warning  signs, 
etc. ;  4.  Diagram  showing  formation  of  gas  clouds ;  5-7.  Horse 
mask,  K.  T.  mask,  A.  T.  mask,  etc.,  showing  method  of 
manufacture. 

N.  Aisle,  S.  Wall  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  British,  Canadian, 
Piper  Gordon  Highlander  uniforms  and  equipment ;  also  wom- 
en's war  uniforms  and  equipment;  2.  New  Zealand,  Punjabis, 
Russian  Expeditionary  force  of  British  army  uniforms  and 
equipment ;  3.  Air  service,  Canadian  Highlanders.  Welsh 
Fusilliers,  Australian,  uniforms  and  equipment;  also  copy  of 
uniform  worn  by  Field  Marshal  Sir  Douglas  Haig;  4.  French 
Colonial,  African  Chasseurs,  Tirailleurs,  Indo-Chinese  uni- 
forms and  equipment ;  5.  French  cavalry,  artillery,  Algerian 
Tirailleurs,  Chasseur  a  Pied,  Spahis  (African),  Army  nurse, 
uniforms  and  equipment ;  6.  French  uniforms  continued,  includ- 
ing uniformi  as  worn  by  Marechal  Foch. 

Collection  of  Original  Paintings  for  Liberty  Loan  Post- 
ers (given  by  the  artists).  S.  Wall,  beginning  at  entrance 
door  (E.  to  W.)  :  I.  Francis  C.  Jones,  Home  Again;  2. 
Ossip  Perelma,  Portrait  of  Marshal  Joff re ;  3.  George  Elmer 
Browne,  The  Sinking  of  Unarmed  Fishermen  off  the  Coast  of 
Cape  Cod.  4.  Philip  R.  Goodzvin,  Charge  on  the  Hinden- 
burg  Line  of  the  105th  Inf.  27th  Division ;  5.  Clifford  Ulp. 
Gen.  Allenby  in  Palestine ;  6.  Ossip  Perelma,  Portrait  of  Gen. 
Collardet;  7.  John  C.  Todahl,  The  iRescue;  8.  H.  C.  Murphy, 
Jr.,  The  27th  Division  Breaking  the  Hindenburg  Line;  9.  Wm. 
de  la  Montagne  Cary,  The  Warrior's  Return;  19.  Fred.  Dana 
Marsh,  Over  the  Rhine  to  Victory;  II.  Louis  P.  Berncker, 
The  Wall  Between;  12.  John  F.  Parker,  Retreat  of  the 
Serbian  Army;  13.  Charles  Hopkinson,  The  Sinking  of  the 
Hospital  Ship ;  14.  James  Knox,  First  Attack  of  the  Tanks ; 
15.  /.  D.  Whiting,  Army  Transport ;  16.  Howard  Giles,  Boys 
of  the  165th  Infantry  Breaking  Through;  17.  Eva  Brook 
Donly,  Arrival  at  Baltimore  of  U-Boat  Deutschland;  18. 
Reynolds  Beat,  Sinking  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Jones;  19.  Edzvard 
H.  Potthast,  The  Argonne ;  20.  Harry  L.  Hoffman,  The 
Argonne ;  21.  Fred  J.  Hoertz,  Cargo  Carriers;  22.  Frank 
Tenney  Johnson,  Camel  Supply  Train  Resting ;  23.  Sidney  E. 
Dickinson,  The  First  Raid  on  the  Americans,  Nov.  3,  1917 ; 
24.  Parker  Nezvton,  Victory  Fleet  in  the  North  River ;  25. 
James  Weiland,  Signing  of  the  Armistice. 

W.  Aisle,  N.  Wall  (W.  to  E.)  :  Thornton  Oakley,  The 
Cannon  Maker ;  2.  H.  Bolton  Jones,  The  Finger  of  the  Hun ; 
3.    O.  Perelma,  Operation  on  a  Hero  of  the  War;  4.   H.  Bol- 


268  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

ion  Jones,  Wheat  for  the  Allies ;  5,  F.  C.  Stahr,  "Go-to- 
Hell"  Whittlesey  and  the  Lost  Battalion;  N.  Aisle,  W.  Wall; 
C.  Carl  Rengius,  Bringing  up  the  Guns;  7.  Matilda  Browne, 
Belgian  Refugees ;  8.  W.  C.  Rice,  The  Night  Raiders,  E.  Wall  ; 
9.  Nathan  Dolinsky,  The  Battalion  of  Death;  10.  Howard 
Russell  Butler,  Crime  by  Moonlight;  11.  John  C.  Johansen, 
Gas  and  High  Explosives.  N.  Wall ;  12.  Ossip  L.  Linde, 
Louvain;  13.  E.  L.  Blum  ens chein,  Portrait  of  Charles  A. 
Lembke,  91st  Division;  14.  Willard  D.  Paddock,  "They 
Shall   Not  Pass"'    (bas-relief). 

Returning  through  the  Lobby,  the  visitor  now  proceeds 
through  south  central  door  to — 

Central  Gallery.  World  War  Collection  continued;  Cen- 
tral Exhibits  (N.  to  S.).  1.  Gen.  Electric  38-inch  barrel 
type  searchlight;  2.  Gen.  Electric  Model  No.  2  60-inch  open 
type  Searchlight;  3.  Model  of  standard  type  Trench  and  Cave 
Shelter  Chamber  "Dugout" ;  4.  Engineer  pack  train  equip- 
ment, consisting  o>f  four  pairs  of  boxes ;  5.  Light  gas  railway 
locomotive,  used  by  Expeditionary  Force  in  France ;  6.  Mod- 
els of  Ponton  wagons,  Ponton  bridges,  etc. ;  7.  Company  car-" 
penter  chests ;  8.  Limber  and  Caisson  wagon,  Brill  type ;  har- 
ness,  Artillery  type. 

W.  Side  Exhibits  OS.  to  N.)  :  1.  Model  of  camouflaged 
gun  position ;  2.  Parabolic  listening  device ;  3.  American 
sound-ranging  set;  4.  American  flash-ranging  set;  5.  Gen. 
Electric  60-inch  barrel  type  Searchlight;  6.  Photographic 
and  drafting  equipment. 

E.  Side  Exhibits  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  Field  dental  equipment; 
portable  dental  chair ;  2.  Medical  equipment ;  3.  Portable  dis- 
inf ector  or  delousing  machine ;  4.  Liberty  kitchen ;  5.  Red 
Cross  ambulance. 

Collection  of  Liberty  Loan  lia'mtings,  continued.  N.  Wall, 
W.  of  Entrance  Door :  1.  Hugo  Rosenfield,  The  Effect  of 
the  Long  Range  Gun,  Paris ;  2.  Felecie  Waldo  Howell,  Re- 
turn of  the  27th  Division,  Marching  up  Fifth  Avenue;  3.  Or- 
lando Rouland,  Portrait;  4.  Eben  F.  Comins,  Jujst  Home 
From  Over  There ;  5.  Emily  Nichols  Hatch,  Washington's 
Birthday:    The   77th   Division   Parades   on  Fifth   Avenue. 

West  Wall  (iN.  to  S.)  :  1.  Laura  A.  Fry,  Her  Dream; 
2.  Colin  Campbell  Cooper,  Forward  (The  Crusaders)  ;  3. 
E.  L.  Blumenschein,  The  Long  Range  Gun  in  Paris;  4. 
Charles  Hopkinson,  The  Sinking  of  the  Lusitania;  5.  Charles 
S.  Chapman,  Allies;  6.  {Paul  King,  Major-Gen,  Hugh  L. 
Scott;  7.  Henry  Salem  Hub  bell,  Capt.  Walter  B.  Flannery; 
8.    Capt.   H.  Ledyard    Toivle,    Capt.   Eddie   Rickenbacker ;    9. 


THE  WORLD   WAR  COLLECTION  269 

/.  Mortimer  Lichtenauer,  Brig.  Gen.  Palmer  E.  Pierce;  10. 
Blendon  R.  Campbell,  Brig.  Gem.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt; 
II.  William  Woodward,  Col.  Allison  Owen;  12.  Martha 
Wheeler  Baxter,  Portrait;  13.  Helen  Watson  Phelps,  Dr. 
Henry  Van  Dyke;  14.  Martha  Walter,  Brig.  Gen.  Charles 
L.  de  Bevoise;  15.   Kenneth  Frazier,  Signing  of  the  Armistice. 

On  W.  Row  of  Columns  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  George  Varian, 
The  Crumbling  of  the  San  Mihiel  Salient;  2.  John  O. 
Todahl,  Prey  of  the  U-Boat ;  3.  Douglas  E.  Parshall,  British 
Infantry  at  Arras  Cathedral;  4.  George  N.  Richards,  The 
Accolade;  5.  Arthur  E.  Bechcr,  Sergeant  Brown  Captures 
His  Huns ;  6.  Richard  V.  Schluter,  The  Leviathan  Return- 
ing With  the  27th  Division. 

East  Row  of  Columns  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  James  G.  Tyler, 
Torpedoed;  2.  C.  A.  Aiken,  Battle  of  Dogger  Bank;  3. 
O.  H.  Von  Gottschalk,  Fair  Game  for  the  Hun;  4.  Richard 
V.  Schluter,  Standing  By  to  the  Rescue;  5,  Clara  Weaver 
Parrish,  Deportations  of  the  Belgians ;  6.  /.  W.  Weaver, 
Naval  Guns  in  Action;  7.  John  I.  H.  Dozvnes,  German 
Cruiser  Emden  Destroyed  by  Australian  Cruiser  Sidney; 
8.    Truman  E.  Fassett,  Naval  Guns  in  Action  on  French  Soil. 

East  Wall  (S.  to  N.).  1.  Carroll  T.  Berry,  Battle  of 
Siechprey ;  2.  Clifford  Carleton,  The  77th  Division  Leaves 
New  York;  3.  Richard  V.  Schluter,  Victims  of  the  Sub- 
marine; 4.  Howard  Russell  Butler,  Eagle  and  Shark;  5. 
Andrew  T.  Schwartz,  The  First  American  Shell ;  6.  Charles 
F.  Rosen,  The  Marines  Attack;  7.  John  O.  Todahl,  A  Clean 
Hit;  8.  E.  N.  Vanderpoel,  Ypres  After  the  War;  9.  F.  K. 
Detwiller,  Ships  and  More  Ships ;  10.  Harry  C.  Edzvards, 
Edith  Cavell  Next;  11.  Allyn  Cox,  Across  the  Piave ;  12. 
Oss'ip  Pcrelma,  Portrait ;  13.  The  Same,  Rear  Adm.  R.  P. 
Rogers;     14.    Arthur  M.  Hazard,  "Not  by   Might." 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :    1.   John  F.  Barker,  Zero  Hour; 

2.  Eben    Cumins,    Colored    Hero ;    3.      The    Same,    Wounded 

Soldier;  4.  Edwin  A.  Blash field,  'The  Spirit  of  the  Past  will 

Carry  the  Future  to  Victory" ;  5.  Theodore  Oakley,  Inistconck. 

.    Doors  in  West  Wall  give  admission  to — 

Rooms, 44,  45,  46  and  47,  containing  Paintings  and  Draw- 
ings made  by  the  Official  Military  artists  of  the  American 
Expeditionary  Forces  in  France  during  the  War  with  Ger- 
many. The  following  eight  artists  are  represented :  William 
James  Aylward,  W.  J.  Duncan,  Harvey  Dunn,  George 
'Harding,  W.  J.  Morgan,  Ernest  C.  Peixotto,  J.  Andre  Smith 
and  Harry  Townsend.  The  collection  comprises  497  pictures. 
Room  47  also  contains  a  ^Collection  of  82  Drawings  in  pencil, 


270  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

pen,  charcoal,  chalk,  crayon  and  water  color,  executed  and 
signed  by  Eminent  Contemporary  French  Artists,  and  pre- 
sented to  the  people  of  the  United  States  by  the  citizens  of 
the  French  Republic  as  a  token  of  their  appreciation  of  the 
sympathetic  efforts  of  American  citizens  toward  relieving 
the  distress  occasioned  by  the  European  War.  This  notable 
collection   was   received  in  July,   1915. 

Doors  in  East  Wall  of   Central  Gallery  lead  into — 

Rooms  37,  38,  39  and  40,  containing  respectively :  X-ray 
equipment;  types  of  folding  beds^  invalid  chairs,  etc.;  physio- 
theraphy;  and  U.  S.  Army  equipment  in  Post  and  Base 
Hospitals. 

Facing  the  S.  end  of  the  Central  Hall  and  directly  under 
the  Rotunda,  is  a  spacious  Auditorium  with  a  seating  capacity 
of  565  (one  of  the  side  doors  is  usually  open  through  which 
the  visitor  may  obtain  a  glimpse  of  the  interior.)  From  the 
corridor,  fronting  on  the  Auditorium,  stairs  ascend  R.  and  L. 
to  the  main  or  First  floor,  where  doors  open  directly  upon  a 
circular  corridor  surrounding  — 

The  Rotunda:  Occupied  temporarily  by  the  Naval 
Exhibits  of  the  World  War  Collection.  These  comprise  various 
types  of  torpedoes;  models  of  torpedo  boats,  eagle  boats,  mine 
sweepers,  etc. ;  hydrophones  used  to  locate  submarines ;  a 
paravane,  a  British  device  to  protect  vessels  from  moored 
mines;  "Y"  gun,  or  depth  charge  projector;  and  a  primer  that 
fired  the  last  shot  against  the  Germans  from  one  of  the  U.  S. 
Naval  Railway  Batteries.  Note  especially  the  *Model  of 
Belleau  Woods',  from  a  survey  by  the  Topographical  Detach- 
ment, U.  S.  Marine  Corps. 

The  Circular  Corridor  surrounding  the  Rotunda  contains 
the  following  paintings  and  sculptures,  beginning  at  N.  door- 
way (R.  to  L.)  :  1.  Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  Bronze  Bust  of 
Lincoln,  from  statue  in  Lincoln  Park,  Chicago ;  2.  Herbert- 
Adams,  Bronze  statue  of  Joseph  Henry;  3.  Portrait  of  Henry 
Clay;  4.  Portrait  of  William  W.  Corcoran;  5.  Rear  Adm. 
Andrew  Hull  Foote,  U.  S.  N.  (plaster  cast)  ;  6.  Rear  Adm. 
Charles  Henry  Davis,  U.  S.  N.  (plaster  cast)  ;  7.  Paul  W. 
BartleU,  Equestrian  statue  of  Lafayette  (plaster  cast  of  the 
bronze  statue  erected  in  1900,  in  the  Court  o>f  Honor  of  the 
Louvre,  Paris,  by  the  school  children  of  the  United  States)  ; 
8.  John  F.  Weir,  Statue  of  Benjamin  Silliman  (original  plas- 
ter model  for  bronze  statue  at  Yale  University)  ;  9.  John  J. 
Boyle,  Chippewa  family  (bronze  group)  ;  10.  Dana  Pond, 
Portrait  of  Admiral  W.  S.  Benson,  U.  S.  A.;  n.  Artist  Un- 
known,   Portrait    of    Andrew    Jackson;     12.  Anne    Whitney, 


THE   NATIONAL   GALLERY   OF  ART  271 

Bronze  statue;  13.  Plaster  statue,  life  size,  of  Baron  Kam- 
onno-Kami  Naosuke,  pioneer  diplomat  of  Japan;  14.  Plaster 
statue,  Francis  Scott  Key  Memorial;  15.  /.  Connor,  statue  of 
Robert  Emmet. 

d.     The    National    Gallery    of   Art 

North  Wing:  Central  Hall:  *National  Gallery  of  Art. 
The  main  portion  of  this  art  collection  is  housed  temporarily 
in  this  Hall ;  and  is  shown  to  surprisingly  good  advantage 
in  view  of  the  fact  that  the  lighting  facilities  were  not  pri- 
marily designed  for  art  exhibits. 

History.  The  National  Gallery  of  Art,  the  legal  depository 
of  all  objects  of  art  belonging  to  the  Nation,  had  its  inception 
in  the  Act  of  Congress  approved  Aug.  10,  1846,  establishing 
the  Smithsonian  Institution  and  directing  that,  in  addition  to 
a  Natural  History  Museum,  provision  should  also  be  made  for 
"a  chemical  laboratory,  a  library,  a  gallery  of  art,  etc."  In 
planning  the  Smithsonian  building  the  Board  of  Regents  set 
aside  two  galleries  60  ft.  in  length,  and  soon  afterwards  in- 
creased the  small  nucleus  of  portraits,  busts  and  miscellaneous 
paintings,  by  the  successive  purchases  of  the  Marsh  collection 
of  prints,  Catlin's  "Indian  Gallery,"  and  the  temporary  deposit 
of  the  J.  M.  Stanley  collection  of  Indian  paintings.  Serious 
discouragement  resulted  from  the  disastrous  fire  which,  in 
1865,  burned  out  the  second  story  of  the  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion, destroying  a  large  portion  of  the  art  collection,  including 
the  Stanley  paintings.  The  surviving  works  were  removed 
the  paintings  and  statuary  to  the  Corcoran  Gallery,  and  the 
engravings  to  the  Library  of  Congress.  Many  years  later  the 
majority  of  these  were  returned  to  the  Smithsonian.  Little 
of  importance,  however,  occurred  until  1903,  when  the  Harriet 
Lane  Johnston  collection  of  paintings  and  other  art  work  was 
bequeathed  to  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery,  subject  to  the  condi- 
tion that  should  a  National  Gallery  be  established  in  Washing- 
ton they  should  become  the  property  of  that  Gallery.  Since 
it  was  evident  that  Mrs.  Johnston  had  been  unaware  of  the 
existence  of  the  collection  in  the  Smithsonian  Institution^  a 
friendly  suit  was  started  to  decide  whether  this  collection 
was  within  the  meaning  and  intent  of  the  law  a  National 
Gallery  of  Art.  The  Supreme  Court  of  the  District  of  Col- 
umbia decreed  that  it  was,  and  in  1906  awarded  the  Johnston 
collection  to  the  Institution.  The  National  Gallery  of  Art 
thereupon  assumed  its  present  title,  but  continued  to  be  ad- 
ministered in  connection  with  the  National  Museum  until  July 
1,    1920,   when,  by   Act   of   Congress,   its   connection  with  the 


V2.  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Museum  was  severed,  and  it  became  the  seventh  administrative 
branch  under  the  Institution. 

The  permanent  collection  now  includes  the  following  im- 
portant units : 

I.  The  Harriet  Lane  Johnston  Collection,  comprising  31 
pieces,  paintings,  marbles  and  miscellaneous  objects. 

II.  The  William  T.  Evans  Collection.  Mr.  Evans,  a 
citizen  of  Montclair,  N.  J.,  in  1907  announced  Lis  intention 
of  donating  $6  representative  paintings  of  American  artists. 
Subsequently  he  gradually  increased  the  number,  with  the 
result  that  now  (1922)  the  Evans  Collection  includes  151 
paintings,  representing  106  contemporary  American  artists, 
besides  many  wood-engravings. 

III.  The  Charles  L.  Freer  Collection,  presented  in  1906, 
and  now  May,  1922,  being  arranged  in  a  new  gallery  (p.  ), 
situated  S.  W.  of  the  old  Smithsonian  Building,  and  soon  to 
be  opened  to  the  public. 

IV.  Contemporary  French  Drawings.  In  July,  1915,  the 
National  Gallery  received  from  France  a  collection  of  draw- 
ings by  82  contemporary  French  artists,  all  of  which  are 
autographed. 

V.  The  Ralph  Cross  Johnson  Collection,  received  in 
1919,  and  consisting  of  24  paintings  by  old  Masters,  Dutch, 
Flemish,  Italian  and  English. 

VI.  The  (Rev.  Alfred  Duane  Pell  Collection  of  porcelains, 
potteries  and  antique  furniture. 

Entrance  Alcove  (E.  to  W.)  :  Ignacio  Zuloaga,  Rosita ; 
Gabrini,  Grand  Canal,  Venice;  /.  William  Fosdick,  Adoration 
of  St.  Joan  of  Arc  (Fire  etching)  ;  Elihu  Vedder,  The  Cup  of 
Death;  Elliott  Damger  field,  The  Child  of  Mary;  William 
Baxter  Closson,  The  Angel ;  Hugo  Ballin,  The  Sybilla  Europa 
prophesies  the  Massacre  of  the  Innocents;  Jose  de  Ribera,  Job 
and  his  Comforters. 

Through  central  N.  door  we  enter  — 

Room  A.  North .  Wall  (E.  to  W.).  Stanley  Grant 
Middleton,  (1852-  ),  Portrait  of  Hon.  Andrew  D.  White; 
Lucian  N.  Powell  (1846-  ),  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone 
River;  Carroll  Be ckwith  (1852-1917),  The  Blacksmith;  George 
da  Madura  Piexotto,  Portrait  of  Julius  Bien,  Sr. ;  Sydney 
Laurence,  "The  Top  of  the  Continent,"  Mt.  McKinley,  Alaska ; 
Arvid  F.  Nyholm   (1866-     ).  Capt.  John  Ericsson. 

West  Wall :  Thomas  Moran,  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone. 

South  Wall:  /.  Van  Lerius  (1823-76),  Death  Preferred; 
Frederick   E.    Church    (1826-1900),    Aurora    Borealis ;    Henry 


THE   NATIONAL   GALLERY   OF   ART  273 

Ulke  (1821-1910),  Portrait  of  Joseph  Henry;  Thomas  Lcclear, 
Gen.  U.  S.  Grant ;  Edzvard  Moran,  The  Ocean,  the  Highway 
of  all  Nations;  Alexander  H.  Wyant  (1836-92),  The  Flume- 
Opalescent  River,  Adirondacks. 

East  Wall:  Thomas  Buchanan  Read  (1822-72),  Portrait 
of  Thomas  Buchanan  Read;  Gilbert  Stuart,  George  Washing- 
ton (lent  by  Supreme  Court  of  District  of  Columbia)  ;  W.  H. 
Fisk    (1797- 1873),  Portrait  of  George  Catlin. 

The  N.  door  leads  into  — 

Room  B.  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.),  George  Innness  (1825- 
94),  Elf  Ground;  William  Sartain  (1843-  ),  Algerian  Water 
Carrier;  Nicolaas  Berchem  (1620-83),  Landscape  with  Cattle; 
William  Morris  Hunt   (1824-79),  The  Spouting  Whale. 

West  Wall:  William  Jurian  Kaula  (1871 — ),  Evening; 
John  W.  Beatty  (1851-  ),  Plymouth  Hills;  Henry  Ward 
Ranger  (1858-1916),  Entrance  to  the  Harbor;  W.  S.  Conrow, 
Portrait  of  Dr.  W.  H.  Dall;  Charles  Melville  Dewey 
(1849-  ),  The  Close  of  Day;  Guy  C.  Wiggins  (1883-  ), 
Gloucester  Harbor;  John  Francis  Murphy  (1853-1921),  The 
Path  to  the  Village;  G.  P.  A.  Healy  (1808-94),  Portrait  of 
William  C.  Preston;  Arthur  Turnbull  Hill,  After  a  Storm, 
Amagansett ;  Chauncey  Foster  Ryder  ( 1868-     ) ,  Landscape. 

South  Wall:  Salvatti  Aly,  The  Adieu;  Jean  Gustave 
Jacquet,  Female  Head;  Eastman  Johnson  (1824-1906),  Portrait 
of  Mrs.  Cross ;  Eisman  Semenowski,  Head  of  Young  Woman. 

East  Wall:  Worthington  Whitteredge  (1820-1910),  Noon 
in  the  Orchard ;  Eugene  Verboeckhovcn,  Sheep ;  Mrs.  M. 
Leslie  Buslv-Brown,  Portrait  of  Miss  Ellen  Day  Hale ;  Childe 
Hassam  (1859-  ),  The  Georgian  Chair;  Frederick  B.  Williams 
(1872-  ),  Conway  Hills;  Homer  D.  Martin,  The  Iron  Mine, 
Port  Henry,  N.  Y. ;  Harriet  Blackstone,  Soldat  de  Crimee; 
/.  Alden  Weir  (1852-1919),  A  Gentlewoman;  Osinan  Hamdy 
Bey  (1842-1910),  Tomb  of  "Mahomet  the  Gentleman,"  at 
Broussa ;  Hillner,  Alpine  Landscape. 

Room  C.  (William  T.  Evans  Collection).  North  Wall: 
Henry  Golden  Dearth  (1864-  ),  Church  at  Montreuil;  Wyatt 
Eaton  (1849-96),  ^Portrait  of  William  T.  Evans;  Thomas 
Wilmcr  Dezving    (1851-     ),   Summer. 

West  Wall :  Edward  Lord  Weeks,  Hindoo  Merchants ; 
Carlcton  Wiggins  (1848-  ),  Evening  After  a  Shower; 
Theodore^  Robinson  (1852-96),  La  Vachere ;  H.  Hobart 
Nichols  (1869-  ),  Moonrise  at  Ogunquit ;  E.  Irving  Couse 
(1866-  )',  Elk-Foot^  Pueblo  Tribe;  Robert  F.  Blum,  (1857- 
1903),  Canal  in  Venice,   San  Travaso  Quarter;   W.  Granville 


274  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Smith  (1870-  ),  Grey  Day;  /.  Foxcroft  Cole  (1837-92), 
Late  Afternoon  near  Providence;  Frank  De  Haven  (1856-  ), 
Castle  Creek  Canyon,  South  Dakota. 

South  Wall:  Will  H.  Low  (1853-  ),  ^Christmas  Morn; 
Otto  Walter  Beck  (1864-  ),  "Suffer  the  Little  Children  to 
come  unto  Me"  (three  panels);  George  Fuller  (1822-84), 
Portrait  of  Henry  B.  Fuller;  Charles  Frederick  Naegele 
(1857),  Mother  Love;  George  Fuller,  Ideal  Head;  Otto 
Walter  Beck,  Christ  before  Pilate. 

East  Wall:  Inting  R.  Wiles  (1861-  ),  Russian  Tea: 
Homer  D.  Martin  (1836-97),  Evening  on  the  Seine;  William 
E.  Norton  (1848-1916),  Night  Attack  on  the  General  Arm- 
strong off  Pico,  Azores ;  Irving  R.  Wiles,  *The  Brown 
Kimono ;  Sanford  R.  Gifford,  The  Villa  Malta ;  George  Inness, 
♦September  Afternoon;  Frederick  S.  Church,  *The  Black 
Orchid;  Homer  D.  Martin,  Lower  Ausable  Pond;  Charles 
Warren  Eaton,  (1857-  ),  Gathering  Mists;  John  La  Farge 
(1835-1910),  *  Visit  of  Nicodemus  to   Christ. 

In  the  centre  of  the  room :  Bronze  Bust  of  William  T. 
Evans  (1904),  by  /.  S.  Hartley  (1845-1912). 

Room  D  (William  T.  Evans  Collection,  continued)  : 
North  Wall:  (E.  to  W.)  :  Elizabeth  Nourse  (i860-  ),  Fisher 
Girl  of  Picardy;  Anders  Zorn  (1860-1920),  Portrait  of  a 
Lady;   John  W.  Alexander,  June. 

West  Wall:  /.  H.  Twachtman  (1853-1902),  The  End 
of  Winter ;  William  E.  Norton,  Mussel  Gatherers ;  /.  Francis 
Murphy  (1853-1921),  Indian  Summer;  Alexander  H.  Wyant, 
Spring ;  Leon  Dabo  ( 1868) ,  Evening  on  the  Hudson ;  William 
M.  Chase  ( 1849-  ) ,  Shinnecock  Hills ;  Carleton  Wiggins, 
The  Pastue  Lot;  George  Glenn  Newell  (1870-  ),  Mists  of 
the  Morning;  Charlotte  B.  Coman  (1833-  ),  Early  Summer; 
Frank  A.  Bicknell  (1866-  ),  October  Morning;  Alfred  C. 
Howland  (1838-1909),  Friendly  Neighbors:  R.  Swain  Gifford, 
On  the  Lagoon,  Venice;  /.  Alden  Weir,  Upland  Pasture. 

South  Wall :  Childe  Hassam,  Sunrise,  Navesink  High- 
lands ;  Lillian  M.  Genth,  Adagio ;  Frederick  M.  Waugh, 
♦After  a  North-Easter ;  Charles  Melville  Dewey  (1849-  )> 
The  Harvest  Moon ;  Lillian  M.  Genth,  Depth  of  the  Woods. 

East  Wall :  Bruce  Crane,  Afternoon ;  Guy  C.  Wiggins, 
Columbus  'Circle,  Winter;  /.  H.  Twachtman,  Fishing  Boats 
at  Gloucester;  Ben  Foster  (18521-  ),  Birch-Clad  Hills; 
William  Langson  Lathrop,  The  Three  Trees ;  Emit  Carlsen, 
The  South  Strand;  /.  H.  Twachtman,  Round  Hill  Road; 
The  Same,  The  Torrent;  Leonard  Ochtman,  Morning  Haze; 
Frederick  S.  Church,  Circe. 


THE   NATIONAL   GALLERY   OF   ART  275 

Centre  Case:  Selections  from  Recent  Bequest  of  Mrs. 
Mary  Huston  Eddy,  including  Isabey,  Marie  Antoinette ;  The 
Same,  Duchess  of  Devonshire;  Nodirt  {After  Le  Brun), 
Mme.  Le  Brun  and  Child ;  Artist  Unknown,  Taj  Mahal ; 
Artist   Unknown,  Sultana  of    Shah  Jehan. 

Returning  through  Room  B,  we  reach,  through  N.  door — 

Room  E.  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Albert  Pike  Lewis, 
October  Breezes;  George  de  Forest  Brush  (1855-  ),  The 
Moose  Chase;  Louis  Paul  Dessar  (1867-  ),  The  Watering 
Place;  Frederick  Ballard  Williams  (1872-  ),  A  Glade  by  the 
Sea;  Ralph  A.  Blakelock,  Sunset,  Navarro  Ridge;  Paul 
Dougherty    (1877-     ),   Sun  and  Storm. 

West  Wall:  Henry  W.  Ranger,  The  Cornfield;  Douglas 
Folk,  *The  !Boy  With  the  Arrow ;  Henry  W.  Ranger,  Groton 
Long  Point  Dunes ;  George  Inness,  Sundov/n ;  Henry  W. 
Ranger,  ^Bradbury's  'Mill  Pond  No.  2;  Clara  Tagart  Mac- 
Chesney,  A  Good  Story;  Henry  W.  Ranger,  Connecticut 
Woods. 

South  Wall :  George  Inness,  Niagara ;  William  Henry 
Howe  (1846-  ),  Monarch  of  the  Farm;  George  H.  Bogert 
(1864-  ),  Sea  and  Rain;  Charles  H.  Davis  (1856-  ),  Sum- 
mer; Albert  L.  Groll  (1866-  ),  Laguna — New  Mexico; 
Charles  Paul  Gruppe   (i860-     ),   The  Meadow  Brook. 

East  Wall:  William  S.  Robinson  (1861-  ),  Monhegan 
Headlands;  Alphonse  Jongers  (1872-  ),  ^Portrait  of  William 
T.  Evans;  Edward  Gay  (1837-  ),  The  Hillside;  George 
Elmer  Browne  (1871-  ),  The  Wain  Team;  James  Henry 
Moser  (1854-1913),  Evening  Glow,  Mt.  Mclntire ;  Orlando 
Rouland  (1871-  ),  Portrait  of  J.  J.  Shannon;  Winslow 
Homer,   *High  Cliff,   Coast   of   Maine. 

The  N.  door  opens  into  — 

Room  F.  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Attributed  to 
Raphael,  Madonna  and  Child ;  Narcisse  Diaz  de  la  Pena 
(1809-74),  Landscape;  Walter  Shirlaw,  Study  of  Head — 
Madam  Capri. 

West  Wall :  Herman  Safteven,  Landscape ;  Harrington 
Fitzgerald  (1847-  ),  The  Wreck;  Wyatt  Eaton,  Ariadne; 
George  Henry  Story  (1835-  ),  Portrait  of  Abraham  Lin- 
coln; Adriene  Moreau  (1843-1906),  Crossing  the  Ferry; 
Henry  Siddons  Mowbray  (1858-  ),  Idle  Hours;  Artist  Un- 
known,  George  Washington ;  Walter  Shirlazv,  Water  Lilies ; 
Eugene  Louis  Gabriel  Isabey,  The  Gathering  Storm. 

South  Wall:  Louis  Paul  Dessar  (1867-  ),  Return  to  the 
Fold;  Frank  Duveneck  (1848-  ),  Portrait  of  Walter  Shir- 
law; Frank  B.  Mayer,  Independence;  /.  Aid  en  Weir,  Port- 
rait of  Wyatt  Eaton. 


276  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

East  Wall:  F.  C.  Church,  Mountain  Scene;  Roswell  M. 
Shurtleff  (1838-1915),  The  Mysterious  Woods;  William 
Edgar  Marshall  (1837-96),  Portrait  of  Henry  W.  Long- 
fellow; A.  G.  Powers,  Portrait  of  Franklin  Pierce;  Max 
Bohm  (1868-  ),  The  Happy  Mother;  George  W.  Maynard, 
Dr.  Edward  Maynard ;  George  P.  A.  Hcaly,  Portrait  of  John 
Tyler;  /.  Diday  (1854- •  ),  Mountain  Scene;  William  H. 
Holmes,   The   Wanderlusters. 

The  E  door  leads  into — 

Room  G.  {Ralph  Cross  Johnson  Collection).  North  Wall 
(E.  to  W.)  :  John  Constable  (1776-1837),  Dedham.  Vale- 
Summer  Morning;  Francesco  Guardi  (1712-93),  Viuw  in 
Rome,  with  the  Church  of  Ara  Coeli;  Titian,  Portrait  of  a 
Cardinal;  'Francesco  Guardi,  Ruins  and  Figures. 

West  Wall:  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence  (1769-1830),  Portrait 
of  Airs.  Towry;  William  Hogarth  (1697-1764),  Portrait  of 
Mrs.  Price;  Giacomo  Francia  (1486-1557),  The  Mystic  Mar- 
riage of  St.  Catherine  of  Alexandria;  Nicholaes  Maes  (1632- 
93),  A  iBurgomaster ;  Govaert  Flinck,  (1615-60),  Madonna 
and  Child;  Sir  Henry  Raeburn  (1756-1823),  Portrait  of 
Archibald  Skirving,  Esq.;  George  Romney  (1734-1802), 
Portrait   of    Sir   Sampson   Wright. 

South  Wall:  Sit  Joshua  Reynolds  (1.723-92),  Portrait 
of  Viscount  Hill;  /.  M.  W.  Turner  (1775-1851),  Edinburgh: 
A /Painting  of  Sunlight  and  Air;  Richard  Wilson  (1714-82), 
Summer  Afternoon  About  4  P.  M. ;  Lorenzo  Lotto  (1480- 
I554),  A  Venetian  Senator;  Sebastiano  Mainardi  (d.  1513), 
Madonna  and  Child;  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  The  Duchess  of 
Ancaster;  David  Cox,  Outskirts  of  a  Wood. 

East  Wall :  Thomas  Gainsborough,  A  Family  at  the 
Cottage  Door;  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  a  Man  Wearing  a 
Large  Hat ;  Peter  Paul  Rubens,  The  Holy  Family,  with  St. 
Elizabeth ;  Richard  Wilson,  Grand  Italian  Landscape :  Sun- 
set Glow;  Bernard  Van  Orley  (1493-1542),  The  Virgin  and 
Child;  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  Portrait  of  Lord  Abercorn; 
Thomas  Gainsborough,  Lord  Mulgrave  in  Naval  Uniform. 

Returning  across  Room  F  to  W.  door,  we  reach — 

Room  H :  Harriet  Lane  Johnston  Collection.  North  Wall : 
(E.  to  W.)  :  Rembrandt  Peale,  George  Washington  (loaned)  ; 
Charles  W.  Peale,  George  Washington  (loaned)  ;  Thomas 
Rossiter,  The  Prince  of  Wales  (Edward  VII)  at  Washing- 
ton's Tomb;  George  Frederick  Watts,  Love  and  Life;  Rev. 
J.  A.  Ocrtel,  The  Walk  to  Gethsemene ;  Artist  Unknown 
{after  Corrcggio),  Madonna  and  Child;  Francis  Pourbus  the 
Younger    (1569-1622),   Portrait   of  Josepha  Boegart. 


THE   NATIONAL   GALLERY   OF   ART  277 

West  Wall :  Oiho  Van  Veen,  Nativity ;  Sir  William 
Beechey  (1753-1839),  Portrait  of  Miss  Murray;  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence  (1769-1830),  *Lady  Essex  as  Juliet;  Titian  (copy), 
Portrait  of  Artist's  Daughter;  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  *  Portrait 
of  Mrs.  Hamimiond ;  Bernardino  Luini  (1460-1535),  *A 
Madonna  and  Child ;  Walter  Shirlaw,  The  Inn,  Germany ;  Joh)i 
Hoppner  (1758-1810),  *Mrs,  Abington ;  Cornelis-Janson  Van 
Cenlen  (1594-1666),  Portrait  of  Mme.  Tulp ;  G.  Maczolini 
(about  1560),  Portrait  of  Beatrice  Cenci;  Gorge  Romney 
(1734-1802),  *  Portrait  of  Miss  Kirkpatrick. 

South  Wall :  Walter  Shirlaw,  Roses ;  Artist  Unknown, 
Salome  with  Head  of  John  the  Prophet;  G.  P.  A.  Healy, 
M.  F.  P.  G.  Guizot ;  Dubois  Fenelon  Hasbrouck  (i860-  ), 
Autumn  Landscape;  Raphael  (original  or  replica),  Holy 
Family. 

East  Wall :  William  T.  Smedley,  One  Day  in  June ;  Ben- 
jamin West,  Portrait  of  the  Artist;  Robert  David  Gauley 
(1875-  ) ,  The  Fur  Muff ;  John  Constable,  The  Valley  Farm  ; 
Sir  John  Watson  Gordon  (1798-1864),  The  Prince  of  Wales 
(Edward  VII)  ;  Ediuin  Lord  Weeks,  Street  Scene  in  the  East; 
Frederic  Remington,  Fired  On;  Harper  Pennington  (1854- 
1920),  Portrait  of  James  Buchanan  Johnston;  Attributed  to 
Sir  Godfrey   Kneller,   Portrait. 

Case  in  the  center  of  the  room :  Bible  on  which  Mr. 
Buchanan  took  oath  of  office  as  President,  March  4,  1857; 
First  message  sent  over  the  Atlantic  Cable,  by  Queen  Victoria 
to  President  Buchanan,  August  16,  1858;  Miniature  of  James 
Buchanan,  by  /.  Henry  Brown;  Photograph  of  Queen  Vic- 
toria with  autograph  signature,   1898. 

This  room  also  contains  the  following  pieces  of  statuary: 
Henry  Rinehart,  Henry  Elliot  Johnston  (Marble  bust)  ;  The 
Same,  Mrs.  Harriet  Lane  Johnston  (Marble  bust)  ;  The  Same, 
Henry  E.  Johnston,  Jr.  (Two  years  old),  as  Cupid  (Full- 
length  Marble)  ;  The  Same,  James  Buchanan  (Marble  bust). 

Returning  through  Room  F,  we  reach,  by  N.  door — 

Room  I.  West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  Alexander  H.  Wyant, 
Autumn  at  Arkville;  John  W.  Alexander,  A  Toiler;  Edivin 
Willard  Deming  (i860-  ),  The  Mourning  Brave;  William 
Henry  Howe  (1846-  ),  My  Day  At  Home;  Edivardo 
Zamagois,  Refectory. 

South  Wall:  Orlando  Rouland.  Portrait  of  John  Muir; 
G.  P.  A.  Healy.  Portrait  of  Vinnie  Ream;  R.  E.  W.  Earl, 
Andrew  Jackson. 

East  Wall:  Max  Weyl  (1837-1914),  Klingle  Ford;  Ed- 
zvard   W.  Redfield,  The  Island;  Attributed  to  Hobbcma,  The 


278  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Old  'Mill ;  Rubens,  The  Infant  Jesus  and  St.  John ;  Frederick 
Waugh,  Southwesterly  Gale,  St.  Ives. 

The  E.  door  leads  into — 

Room  J.  {William  T.  Evans  Collection  continued) ,  iNorth 
Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Henry  Oliver  Walker,  Portrait  of  Mrs. 
Evans  and  Son;  Hugo  Ballin,  The  Lesson;  Louis  Loeb,  The 
Siren. 

West  Wall :  Louise  (Hoivland  King)  Cox,  May  Flowers ; 
Henry  Oliver  Walker,  Musa  Regina;  Edgar  Melville  Ward, 
The  Blockmaker;  Kenyon  Cox,  Plenty. 

South  Wall :  Winslow  Homer,  The  Visit  of  the  Mistress ; 
Robert  Weir,  The  Mirror;  Henry  Oliver  Walker,  *Eros  et 
Musa;  Theodore  Robinson,  Old  Church  at  Giverny;  Charles 
Courtney    Curran    (1861-     ),    The    Perfume  of   Roses. 

East  Wall:  William  Sergeant  Kendall,  An  Interlude; 
Henry  B.  Fuller,  Illusions ;  William  Baxter  Palmer  Closson 
(1848-     ),  Nymph  and  Water  Babies  at  Play. 

In  Center:  Bien  Aimee,  A  Bacchante  (marble).  Re- 
turning across   Room  I,   we  enter,   through  W.   door — 

Room  K.  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Albertinelli  {copy), 
Salutation;  Frank  Duveneck  (1848-1914),  Water  Carriers, 
Venice;    Copy   of  Del  Sarto,   Holy  Family. 

West  Wall :  Sir  William  Beechey,  Mrs.  Hawkins  and 
Family ;  Guido  Reni,  St.  Michael ;  George  Frederick  Watts, 
Lady   and    Two   Children. 

•  South   Wall :    Painting    on   Cloth   in    Vegetal   Colors,    St. 
Anthony  and  the  Lions    (loaned). 

East  Wall:  Richard  Wilson  (1713-82),  Rome  and  the 
Campagna;  Perug'ino,  Madonna  and  Child;  E.  Keyser,  Gath- 
ering Flowers. 

In  Center :  William  H.  Rinehart,  The  Sleeping  Children 
(marble  group). 

North  Pavilion  :  National  Gallery  of  Art  continued. 
South  Wall  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  Bronze 
statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln  (reduced  copy  of  original  in 
Lincoln  Park,  Chicago)  ;  2.  Harriet  Hosmer,  Puck  (marble)  ; 
3.  Case  containing  Sevres  porcelains,  16  specimens ;  4.  William 
F.  Halsall,  The  Song  of  the  )Sea  (painting)  ;  5.  William 
Couper,  Tennyson's  "Princess"  (marble)  ;  6.  M.  Herbert, 
Roman  Soldier  Legionary  (plaster)  ;  7.  Daikoku,  Japanese 
God  of  Wealth,  seated  on  bale  of  rice,  symbol  of  agriculture 
(bronze)  ;  8.  Louis  Potter,  The  Fire  Dance  (bronze)  ;  q.  Latent 
Thompson,  Napoleon  (bronze,  heroic  size)  ;  10.  P.  F.  Con- 
nelly, Cordelia    (marble)  ;    11.  Case   containing  American  Art 


THE  NATIONAL   GALLERY   OF  ART  279 

Pottery;   12.    Paolo  Veronese,  Untitled  painting;   13.  Horatio 
Greenough,  Samuel  F.  B.  Morse  (marble  bust). 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Daniel  Chester  French,  Hon. 
John  Sherman  (marble  bust)  ;  2.  Case  containing  porcelains, 
old  and  new  Europe;  3.  Case  containing  Chinese  and  Japanese 
blue  and  white  porcelains ;  4.  Case  containing  Chinese  and 
Japanese  Pottery,  large  and  small  bowls,  vases,  etc.;  5.  Case 
containing  Capi  di  Monte  porcelains  (Naples,  Italy),  figurines, 
vases,  bowls,  also  bronze  figures,  etc.;  6.  Moses  W.  Dykaar, 
Hon.  Champ  Clark  (marble  bust)  ;  7.  Royal  porcelain  vase, 
Berlin. 

North  Pavilion,  North  Alcove.  The  Rev.  Alfred  Duane 
Pell  Collection  of  Porcelains,  Potteries  and  Antique  Furni- 
ture (the  porcelain  exhibits  enumerated  in  the  preceding 
paragraph  also  belong  to  this  collection). 

North  Wall  beginning  L.  of  entrance  door  (W.  to  E.)  : 
1.  Vitrine,  France,  18th  cent.,  containing  Meissen  ware ;  2. 
Florentine  Cabinet  with  Ivory  inlay,  containing  English  por- 
celain :  Worcester,  Crown  Derby,  Doulton,  Spode,  etc. ;  3. 
French  Commode,  copy  of  original  in  Chantilly  Museum,  sur- 
mounted by  three  large  Sevres  vases ;  4.  Case  containing 
(above)  French  banquet  set  (bronze),  by  Thomiere,  18th 
cent.,  special  artizan  to  Napoleon  I;  (below)  Collection  of 
silverware,  English  and  German,  including  tankards  and  other 
large  pieces  in  fine  preservation ;  5.  Florentine  secretary-cabinet 
with  ivory  inlay.  19th  cent. ;  6.  Sevres  cabinet  of  bronze  and 
porcelain,  period  of  Napoleon  I ;  7-8  Walnut  bedstead  and 
bureau,  style  of  Henry  II,  made  for  Centennial  Exposition  of 
1876,  by  Potter  &  Stymus,  New  York;  9.  Bronze  clock,  after 
Jean  Goujon. 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Porcelain  and  glassware 
from  various  European  countries ;  2.  Porcelains :  Vienna, 
Carlsbad,  Meissen,  Berlin,  Russia. 

Wrest  Wall :  1.  Walnut  cabinet,  France  or  Flanders,  19th 
cent.,  containing  Part  of  Service  from  Chateau  Tuilleries 
under  Napoleon  III  (bought  by  Dr.  Pell's  uncle  at  public  sale 
in  1871)  ;  (above)  Par  of  bronze  candelabra,  France;  Sevres 
vase,  mottled  blue  and  green  porcelain. 

South  Wall  (W.  to  E.)  :  Moses  W.  Dykaar,  bust  of  Maj. 
Gen.  George  O.  Squier,  U.S.A.;  2.  Vitrine,  France,  18th  cent., 
containing  vases,  cups,  etc  ;  3.  Piano,  tulip  wood  and  bronze, 
France,  1849 ;  4.  Florentine  cabinet  with  ivory  inlay,  containing 
porcelains :  plates,  vases,  cups,  etc.  Note  especially  Meissen 
plate,  "The  Lute  Player,"  after  Eglon  Vander  Meer;  5 
Vitrine,  France,  18th  cent.,  containing:  Meissen  and  Berlin 
figures,  Copenhagen  and  Rostrand   (Sweden)  porcelains. 


280  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Center  Exhibits  (W.  to  E.)  :  i.  Desk  of  elegant  design, 
19th  cent.,  copy  of  original  in  Louvre ;  2-4.  Cases  containing 
pre-historic  ceramics  from  Casas  Grandes,  Chihuahua,  Mexico 
(loaned  by  the  Archaeological  Society  of  Washington). 

e.     East  Wing — Collections  on  Paleontology 

Main  Floor — Continued:  East  Wing.  This  wing  is  de- 
voted to  Palaeontology;  the  sky-lighted  East  Hall  contains 
the  large  spectacular  exhibits  of  Fossil  Reptiles  and  a  few 
Fossil  Fishes;  the  Southeastern  Pavilion  contains  the  Fossil 
Birds  and  Mammals;  the  South  Aisle  is  devoted  to  Fossil 
Invertebrates,  and  an  Historic  Exhibit  of  the  Geologic  Strata 
of  North  America;  and  the  North  Aisle  contains  Fossil 
Plants,  Petrified  Woods,  etc. 

Central  Hall.  Upon  entering  this  room  from  the  Ro- 
tunda, the  visitor  cannot  fail  to  notice,  directly  facing  him  on 
the  second  story  of  the  East  wall,  a  large  mural  painting 
(on  canvas,  25  xn  ft),  *Diana  of  the  Tides,  by  John  Elliot 
(p.  ).  It  depicts  the  goddess  standing  erect  in  her  chariot, 
rainbow-tinted  sea-shell,  drawn  by  four  horses,  typifying  the 
flowing  of  the  tides. 

The  principal  exhibits  are  arranged  down  the  center  of 
the  hall:  1.  (L.)  Case  containing  Skull  of  a  Two-horned 
Dinosaur,  Diceratops  hatcheri  Lull,  the  only  known  species 
of  Ceratopsia  without  a  horn  on  the  nose;  2.  (R.)  Case  con- 
taining Skull  of  a  Three-horned  Dinosaur,  Trieeratops  cal'i- 
tomis  Marsh.  Both  of  these  specimens  are  from  Upper 
Cretaceous,  Converse  County,  Wyoming;  3.  Mounted  skeleton 
of  *Basilosaurus  cetoides  Owen,  a  sea-living  mammal 
-of  the  Eocene  period,  between  three  and  four  million  years 
ago.  This  exhibit,  obtained  from  deposits  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cocoa,  Alabama,  is  made  up  of  the  best  preserved  portions 
*of  two_ partial  skeletons.  Length,  55  ft.;  4.  (R.)  Giant  Deer, 
Alee  giganteus  (Blumenbacch),  from  Pleistocene  clays  under- 
lying peat  deposits,  Ireland;  5.  (R.)  American  Mastodon, 
Mammut  Americamim  Kerr,  from  peat  deposits,  Church, 
Michigan.;  6.  (L.)  Mastodon,  a  .second  specimen  from  Pleis- 
tocene swamp  deposit,  Pulaski ^  County,  Ind. ;  7.  Cast  of  a 
Dinotherium  giganteum,  an  extinct  quadruped  related  to  the 
mammoth  and  elephant;  from  Eppelsheim,  Rhine  Valley;  8. 
Small  case  containing  skeleton  of  Epigaulus,  an  extinct  rodent ; 
9.  *Horned  Dinosaur,  Trieeratops  prorsus  Marsh,  from 
Lance  formation,  "Ceratops  Beds,"  Converse  County,  Wyoming. 

A  reconstructed  skeleton,  from  bones  of  several  specimens;  com- 
pare   miniature    restoration,    modeled    by    Charles   R.    Knight;    alto,    on 


PALEONTOLOGY    COLLECTION  281 

opposite  S.  wall,  large  painting  showing  Dinosaur  in  natural  habitat  of 
swamps  and  pools,  by  Charles  R.  Knight,  Charles  Livingston  Bull  and 
Walter  King  Stone. 

10.  Life-size  Restoration  of  an  Armored  Dinosaur,  Stego- 
saurus  stenops  Marsh,  modelled  conjecturally  from  bones 
in  the  Museum;  II.  Skeleton  of  an  Armored  Dinosaur,  made 
up  of  the  bones  of  several  individuals  of  about  the  same  size 
and  proportions,  all  from  the  same  quarry;  12.  *Skeleton  of 
an  Armored  Dinosaur,  exhibited  lying  in  the  position  in  which 
it  was  found,  in  the  sandstone  of  the  Morrison  Beds,  of  the 
Jurassic  period,  near  Canyon  City,  Col. ;  it  is  said  to  be  the 
most  perfect  specimen  yet  found. 

Wall  Exhibits.  The  visitor  may  now  make  the  circuit 
of  the  wall  exhibits,  from  R.  to  L.,  beginning  at  the  N.  E. 
cor.  These  exhibits  are  displayed  partly  in  four  series  of 
table-cases  of  five  sections  each,  extending  from  the  four 
corners  of  the  hall  along  the  N.  and  S.  walls,  and  partly  in 
vertical  frames  and  cases  in  the  central  and  upper  wall  spaces. 

Northeast  Cases:  Notable  exhibits:  Sets  of  Spines  from  tail  of 
Stegosaur.  Skull  of  Crocodile-like)  reptile,  Rutiodon  carolinensis  Em- 
monsi.  Skull  of  fossil  Crocodile,  Thoracosaurus  neocesariensis.  Portions 
of  skeletons  of  various  carnivorous  reptiles:  teeth,  claws,  forefoot,  etc. 
Extinct  Batrachian,  Actinodon  frossardi  Gaudry,  from  Lower  Permian 
(cast).  Fossil  Batrachians,  Carboniferous;  Footprints  made  by  Am- 
phibians. Skeleton  of  extinct  Reptile,  Diadectcs  phaseolinus  Cope,  Per- 
mian, from  Red  River  Oil  Fields,  Comanche  Co.,  Okla.  Above  on  wall. 
Paddle  of  Marine  Reptile,  Pliosaurus  brachydirss  Owen;  Reptile  tracks 
and  Rain  Drop  Impressions;  Extinct  Marine  Reptile,  Ichthyosaurus 
quadrisissus  (Erass) ,  Lower  Jurassic,  Wurtemburg,  Germany;  Ichthyo- 
saurus interrmedius  Conybeare,  Lower  Jurassic,  Lyme/  Regis,  England; 
Two  skeletons  of  flying  Reptiles  Rhaniphorhychus  gemmingi  Meyer, 
both  from  Lithographic  Quarries,  Upper  Jurassic,  near  Eichstadt, 
Germany.  In  central  wall  space:  (ist  large  ca'se)  Ceratosaurus  nasicornis 
(Marsh),  an  extinct  flesh-eating  reptile,  from  sandstones  of  the  Morrison 
Beds,  Jurassic,  near  Canyon  City,  Colo.;  this  specimen,  partly  embedded 
in  rock,  measures  17  ft.  4  in.  to  tip  of  tail;  (2nd  large  case)  Giant  Spined 
Reptile,  Dimetrodon  gigas  Cope,  Permian  formation,  Baylor  Co.,  Texas; 
Above  on  wall:  Two  exhibits  of  Fossil  F'ish,  Gyrodus  circulariss 
(Agassis) ;  Jurassic,  Bavaria  (the  two  together  form  an  unusually 
complete  skeleton,  showing  scales;  it  was  divided  in  two  by  the  cleavage 
of  the  stone  containing  it). 

Northwest  cases:  Notable  exhibits:  Fossil  remains  of  Mastodon  and 
Mammoth;  teeth,  portions  of  skull,  etc.  Tusks  of  Northern  Mammoth, 
Elephas  pri)nigenius.  Specimens  from  carcass  of  a  Mammoth  found 
frozen  in  a  cliff  along  the/ Beresovka  River,  in  N.,  E.  Siberia,  in  1901; 
hair,  fat,  blood  and  stomach  contents.  Collection  of  skulls  and  front 
and  hind  feet,  showing  the  evolution  of  the  Horse,  from  the  primitive 
Eohippus,  Lower  Eocene  through  the  Mesohippus  Merychippus  and 
Hipparion,  to  the  modern  horse.  Above,  on  the  wall  space,  are  three 
extinct  fishes,  including  a  Fossil  Monk  Fish,  Squatina  alifera;  also 
Tusks  from  Mammoth  from  banks  of  Yukon  River,  Alaska.  Measure- 
ment 8  ft.  8  in. 

Southwestern  cases:  (W.  to  E.)  1.  Skeleton  of  fossil  Porpoise, 
Delphinodon  dividum.  Fossil  Sharks'  Teeth  (note  especially  the  huge 
teeth     of     the     Carcharodon     megalodon)      (Agassis),      Eocene     period 


282  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

from  near  Charleston,  S.  C;  from  the  evidence  of  the  teeth  it  is  calcu- 
lated that  this  species  attained  a  maximum  length  of  75  ft.  Fossil 
Fishes:  Oldest  known  species  from  the  Ordovician  beds  of  Colorado. 
On  wall  above:  specimens  of  fossil  fishes,  from  Green  River  shales — 
1.  Lepisosteus  simplex  Leidy;  2.  Lepisostus  atrox;  also  Portheus  bolossns 
Cope. 

During  the  Cretaceous  period,  the  region  now  included  by  Texas, 
New  Mexico,  the  Great  Plains  States  and  Canada  was  an  inland  sea, 
inhabited  by  huge  fish,  such  as  the  Portheus,  by  large  swimming 
reptiles,  the  Mosasaurs,  by  the  Toothed  Diving  Bird,  the  Hesperornis, 
while  Pterodactyls  soared  above  it.  All  these  species  are  represented 
in  the  adjacent  exhibits. 

*In  Central  Wall  Space:  *Duck-billed  Reptile,  Trachodon  annectens 
Marsh,  Upper  Cretaceous,  Wyoming.  This  monster  measures  26  ft. 
4  in.  in  length,  and  stands  8  ft.  high  at  the  hips  (compare  adjacent 
restoration,  a  painting  by  Charles  R.  Knight)  ;  Glass  case)  containing  the 
skeleton  of  a  Marine  Reptile,  Brachanhenias  lucasi  Williston,  the 
shortest-necked  Plesiosaur  yet  discovered;  it  is  exhibited  as  found  in 
the  Benton  limestone,  Ottowa  County,  Kansas,  the  rock  being  cut  away 
only  sufficiently  to  expose  the  underside  of  jaws,  skull,  backbone  and 
ribs.  Case  containing  Fossil  Eocene  Fishes  from  Green  River  Basin 
of  Wyoming. 

These  exhibits  are  from  shale  deposits  of  the  Eocene  (Tertiary) 
age,  formed  some  3,000,000  to  4,000,000  years  ago.  Even  in  that  early 
day  fishes  had  become  so  far  specialized  as  to  be  very  modern  in 
appearance.  Several  living  families  are  represented  by  these  fossil 
forms,  most  of  "the  present  species  being  confined  entirely  to  tropic  or 
sub-tropic  zones.  The  specimens  here  exhibited  are  all  freteh  water 
forms. 

Southeast  Cases:  Extinct  Sauru^ae,  or  Reptile-like  Birds  with 
toothed  jaws,  biconcave  vertebrae,  free  metacarpals  ending  in  claws, 
and  long  tail  with  feathers  arranged  in  pairs.  Case  contains  casts  of 
Hesperornis  regalis;  Moa  feathers;  plaster  cast  of  Archaeopteryx  (ear- 
liest known  bird);  egg  of  Aepyomis;  Skull  of  giant  bird,  Phororachos 
longissimus,  from  Miocene  of  Patagonia.  Mosasaurs,  long,  slender 
Reptiles  from  Upper  Cretaceous  Period,  measuring  from  6  to  40  ft. 
in  length.  4  and  5.  Fossil  Turtles.  The  20  specimens'  in  Case  5,  are 
all  of  the  fossil  land  turtle,  Stylemys  nebrascensis  Leidy,  showing 
growth  from  young  to  mature  individual.  Above,  on  wall:  Skull  of 
Tylosaurus  proriger;  alsoi  Wing-bones  of  a  Flying  Reptile,  Pteranodon 
ingens  Marsh,  from  Niobrara  Chalk  Beds  (the  expanse  of  wing  in  this 
specimen  is  estimated!  at  22  ft.).  Adjacent  is  a  restoration  of  an  allied 
species,  Petranodon  Jongiceps  Marsh,  a  gift  of  the  Peabody  Museum, 
Yale  University,  which  owns  the  original. 

Southeast  Pavilion:  Fossil  Mammals,  Birds  and  Reptiles. 
The  following  are  the  principal  exhibits  in  this  room :  Central 
Cases,  from  S.  to  N. :  i.  Great  Cave  Bear,  Ursus  Spelaeus 
Blumenbach,  Pleistocene,  near  Ariege,  France;  2.  Two- 
horned  Rhinoceros,  Dicerathereum  cooki  Peterson,  Miocene, 
Agate  Springs,  Nebr. ;  3.  Skeleton  of  the  smallest  known 
Dinosaur,  Brachyceratops  Montanensis  Gilmore,  from  northern 
Montana ;  4.  Short-footed  extinct  Rhinoceros,  Teleoceras 
fossiger,  Late  Tertiary,  Phillips  County,  Kansas;  5. 
^Extinct  Reptile,  Camptosaurus  browni  Gilmore,  from 
Jurassic,  Albany  County,  Wyoming  (a  typical  species  of 
Ornithopod,     or    Bird-footed    Dinosaur;     in    the     same    case 


PALEONTOLOGY    COLLECTION  283 

is  a  smaller  allied  species,  C.  nanus  Marsh ;  6.  Extinct 
Bird,  Emeus  crassus  Owen,  from  Quaternary  deposits. 
South  Island,  N.  Z.;  7.  Giant  Moa,  Dinornis  maximus;  8. 
*Extinct  Toothed  Bird,  Hesperomis  regalis  Marsh,  from 
Niobrara  Chalk  Beds,  Kansas  (this  is  one  of  the  rarest 
American  fossils,  and  the  specimen  here  shown  is  one  of 
the  very  few  sufficiently  complete  to  be  exhibited  in  an  articu- 
lated condition)  ;  9.  Extinct  Reptile,  Thescelosaurus  neglectus 
Gilmore,  Upper  Cretaceous,  Converse  County,  Wyoming; 
Extinct  Mammal,  Brontotherium  hatcheri,  from  western 
Nebraska ;  Case  containing  extinct  Wolverine  and  Peccary, 
f roim  near  Cumberland,  Md. ;  also  extinct  Wolf,  from  near 
Los  Angeles,  Calif. ;  Case  containing  skulls  and  bones  of  ex- 
tinct Horses,  Musk-oxen,  and  notably,  Entelodonts,  an  extinct 
group  of  Ungulates,  having  no  living  representatives,  but  re- 
motely related  to  the  Pigs  and  Peccaries ;  extinct  Armadillo- 
like animal,  Schistopleurum  typus  Nodrot,  whose  remains  are 
found  in  the  Argentine ;  Saber-tooth  Cat,  an  unusually  com- 
plete specimen,  from  the  "Big  Bad  Lands"  of  S.  Dakota; 
Case  containing  skulls  of  extinct  Sea-Cow,  Camel  and  various 
species  of  Rhinoceros ;  Right  hand  leg  of  Brontosaurus,  10  ft. 
in  height,  from  Jurassic,  Colo. ;  Hind  legs  and  pelvis  of 
Allosaurus  fragilis,  from  Jurassic,  Colo.  Wall  case,  northeast 
corner,  containing:  Skulls,  tones  and  models  of  large  horned 
Dinosaur,  Triceratops,  and  of  the  Duck-billed  Dinosaur, 
Trachodon.  On  wall  above :  Skeleton  of  long  swimming 
reptile,  Tylosaurus  proriger  Cope.  This  specimen  is  25  ft. 
in  length.  Wall  case  at  southeast  corner  contains :  Fine 
series  of  skulls  of  the  large  plains-living  mammals,  the 
Titanotheres.     More  than  20  species  are  represented. 

South  Aisle:  The  north,  central  and  south  series  of  ex- 
hibits in  this  room  are  each  scientifically  grouped  in  an 
ascending  scale  from  west  to  east,  and  are  most  profitably 
visited  in  that  order. 

The  visitor  may  now  proceed  to  the  South  Aisle,  devoted 
mainly  to  Fossil  Invertebrates. 

1.  North  Wall:  *North  American  Historical  Geology 
Exhibit.  This  series,  occupying  the  entire  length  of  the  wall, 
consists  of :  a.  a  long,  narrow  wall  map,  or  chart,  showing 
a  cross-section  of  the  geologic  strata  of  the  North  American 
Continent,  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic,  the  line  followed 
being  a  broken  one,  shifting  to  N.  or  S.,  according  to  the 
location  of  the  best  known  areas ;  b.  table  cases  of  paleontologic 
exhibits,  arranged  chronologically,  to  show  the  characteristic 
fossils  and  rocks  belonging  to  each  successive  geologic  period ; 


284  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

c.  a   series   of   North  American  maps,   one   for   each  geologic 
period.     This   collection  well  repays  a  prolonged  visit. 

Central  Exhibits  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Specimen  of  an  ancient 
Sea  Beach,  Cambrian  (Potsdam)  Sandstone,  from  Port  Henry, 
N.  Y.  2.  (Specimen  of  sandstone  with  rill  marks,  Lingula 
cuneata  Conrad;  Silurian  (Medina  sandstone)  Lockport,  N.Y. ; 
Fossiliferous  sandstone,  from  Knoxville,  N.  Y. ;  Fossiliferous 
shale,  Lower  Cambrian ;  Fossiliferous  marble,  Carboniferous, 
from  Durham  Co.,  England.  3.  Specimen  of  alternating  cal- 
careous and  sandy  shale,  Ordovician ;  Quartz  Conglomerate, 
Silurian.  4.  Specimen  of  Edgewise  Conglomerate,  Ordovician 
period ;  Limestone  Conglomerate,  Mesozoic.  5.  Case  contain- 
ing stalactites  and  stalagmites  from  caves  near  Harrington 
Sound,  Bermuda;  reef-forming  corals,  including  Brain  Coral, 
Diplodia  cerebriformis;  Sea  Ginger,  Millepora  alcicornis;  Star 
Coral,  Oculina  diffusa.  6.  Table  Case  containing  specimens  of 
large  fossil  Crinoid,  or  -Sea  Lily,  Scyphocrinus  elegans  Zenker, 
Lower  Devonian.  7.  Fossil  Crinoids  continued.  8.  Fossil 
Shells,  Sea  Weeds,  etc.  9.  Table  Case  containing  Vermes  or 
Worms :  one  of  the  rarest  types  of  fossils,  because  these  ani- 
mals have  scarcey  any  hard  portions  to  fossilize.  10.  Gigantic 
Cretaceous  Clam,  from  William's  Creek,  N.  W.  of  Pueblo, 
Coil.  11.  Many-armed  Mesozoic  Crinoid,  Pentacrinus  subang- 
ularis  Miller,  Mesozoic,  from  Lyme  Regis,  England.  12.  Un- 
usually perfect  specimen  of  Isotelus  brachycephalus,  found 
near  Dayton,  Ohio.  13.  Limestone  Slab,  showing  stratigraphic 
unconformity  (Middle  Ordovician)  from  Elkins,  Ky. ; 
Columnar  Calcareous  Alga,  Proterozoic,  from  near  White 
Sulphur  Springs,  Montana.  14.  "Specimen  of  Crinoidal  Lime- 
stone, Williamson  Co.,  Tenn. ;  Section  of  ancient  Conifer  Tree 
(Callixylon) ,  changed  to  silica  in  fossilization.  15.  *Cre- 
taceous  Sea  Bottom,  exhibiting  a  colony  of  the  largest  known 
species  of  Crinoid,  Uintacrinns  socialis  (Grinnell),  a  species 
which  owes  its  name  to  having  been  first  discovered  in  the 
Uinta  Mountains,  Utah.  16.  Fossiliferous  Sandstone,  Tertiary 
— Eocene,  ■  from  Acquia  Cliffs,  Potomac  River,  Va. ;  Tracks 
of  marine  animals  on  surface  of  Potsdam  sandstone.  17. 
Fossil  Shrimps  (Peneus  speciosus  and  Aegir  tipularis,  Jurassic, 
from  lithographic  limestone. 

West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  Rocks  of  New  Hampshire, 
column  showing  proportional  thickness  of  stratified  forma- 
tions ;  2.  Fossil  Sea  Lily,  Pentacrinus  subangularis  Miller, 
Lower  Jurassic,  Wurtemburg;  3.  Uinta  Crinoid,  slab  6  ft. 
square,  showing  over  100  specimens  of  Uintacrinns  socialis 
Grinnell:  4..  Slab  of  shale,  representing  bottom  life  of  Lower 
Carboniferous  sea-floor   (from  Crawfordsville,  Ind.). 


PALEONTOLOGY    COLLECTION  285 

South  Wall  W.  to  E.)  :  Case  1.  Containing*  Middle  Cam- 
brian Fauna,  found  in  dark  silicious  shale,  from  the  Canadian 
Rockies,  3280  ft.  above  Field,  British  Columbia.  Note  espe- 
cially the  large  trilobite,  Neolenus  serratus  (Rominger)  ;  the 
Lace  Crab,  Marclla  superba  (Walcott)  ;  Ptcropocis,  or  wing- 
footed  shells,  Hyolithes  carinatus  (Matthew)  ;  and  the  Sidney 
Crab,  Sidncyia  incxpcctans  (Walcott). 

Previous  to  the  discovery  of  this  splendid  fauna,  fossils  showing 
the  structure  of  their  soft,  fleshy  parts  have  been  exceedingly  rare; 
in  these  specimens  the  most  delicate  structures,  showing  all  the  internal 
anatomy,  have  been  preserved.  Among  the  more  interesting  specimens 
are  the  following:  the  Gephyrean  Worm,  Ottoia  prohfica  (IValcoit) 
(specimens  of  fossil  worms  are  rarely  found  and  those  here  exhib- 
ited are  among  the  most  perfectly  preserved  fossil  forms);  the  Holo- 
thurian,  or  fossil  Sea  Cucumber,  Eldonia  ludwigi  {Walcott),  showing 
the  coiled  alimentary  canal;  also  Scene!  la  conica  {Matthew),  a  small, 
conical  Gastropod  shell,  allied  to  the  modern  limpet. 

Case  2.  Fossiliferous  Rocks:  Marble,  Limestone,  Calcareous  Tufa, 
Coquina,  etc.;  Case  3.  Fossil  Protozoa:  Foraminifera;  Radiolaria;  Fossil 
Sponges  or  Porifera;  Fossil  Corals;  Case  4.  \Fbssil  Corals  continued: 
Chain  coral,  Honeycomb  croal,  Sunflower  coral,  Compound  coral  (  Middle 
Devonian)  cut  and  polished  to  show  radial  internal  structure.  Case  5. 
Slab  showing  nearly  79  specimens  of  crinoid  Iocrinnus  subcrassus; 
Middle  Cambrian  Siliceous  Shale,  with  specimens  of  Holothurian,  Eldonia 
ludwigi;  Slab  with  60  specimens  of  Glyptocrinus  dyeri  Meek ;  Grap- 
tolites:  Black  carbonaceous  bodies,  branched  or  unbranched  to  the 
Medusae  and  Corals;  they  are  found  in  great  abundance  in  Paleozoic 
rocks,  and  are  of  world-wide  distribution;  Fossil  Medusae  or  Jelly  Fish. 
Cases  6-8.  Fossil  Crinoids  continued.  Case  9.  Fossil  Sea-Urchins;  note 
especially  Melon-like  Sea-Urchin,  Melonites  maltiporus.  Case  10.  Fossil 
Asteroidea  or  Starfish;  Blastoidea,  an  extinct  group  of  Echinoderms 
(Palaeozoic) ;  Cystidea,  extinct  sac-like  Echinoderms  (Ordoviciian  and 
Silurian);  Case  11.  Brachiopods  and  rock  specimens  of  different  ages 
composed  largely  of  their  remains;  Fossil  Cephalopoa,  the  most  highly 
organized  of  all  mollusks.  Note  especially  the  Straight  Cephalopods 
(Middle  Orovician) :  Endoceras  proteiforme  Hall;  also  Orthoceras 
chinense,  embedded  in  limestone,  cut  and  polished  to  show  internal 
structure.  In  this  form  these  slabs  are  known  to  the  Chinese  as  Pagoda 
Stones,  from  the  popular  belief  that  the  figure  is  formed  in  the  earth 
wherever  the  tower  of  a  pagoda  casts  its  shadow  on  the  ground. 

Case  11-12.  Ammonites,  an  extinct  group  of  Cephalopods,  closely 
related  to  the  living  Pearly  Nautilus.  Specimen  of  largest  known 
American  Ammonite,  the  Pachydiscsus,  which  must  originally  have 
measured  4  ft.  in  diameter. 

Case  14.  Pelecypoda:  clams,  oysters,  scallops  and  mussels;  Gas- 
tropoda: snails,  periwinkles  and   aonch-shells. 

Case)  15.  Giant  swimming  crab  (Tertiary),  from  Gatun  Formation, 
Panama  Canal  Zone  (the  ancestor  of.  the  present  edible  crab  of  the 
Pacific  Coast);  Fossil  barnacles;  Case  16.  Fossil  Hexapoda  or  Insects: 
The  oldest  known  air-breathing  land  animals,  and  also  the  rarest  of 
fossils  are  two  groups  of  Paleozoic  Insects,  the  Blattoidea  or  Cock- 
roaches, and  the  Plectoptera  or  May-flies;  Note  also  fossil  grasshopper, 
dragonfly  and  water-skipper,  Jurassic  from  lithographic  limestone, 
Eich?tadt,  Bavaria;  also  fossil  Coleoptera,  Isoptera  (white  ants)  and 
Lepidoptera,  from  Quatenary  deposits,  Zanzibar,  Africa;  Cases  16 
(E.  side),  17  and  18:  The  I.  H.  Harris  Collection  of  Cincinnati  fossils: 
arranged  to  show  the  animalsi  and  plants  that  lived  in  the  Mississippian 


286  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Sea  in  the  region  of  Cincinnati,  O.,  towards  the  close  of  the  Lower 
Silurian  period.  The  entire  collection  was  bequeathed  to  the  Museum 
in  1897,  and  contains  upward  of  17,000  specimens;  Case  19.  Slab  of 
fossiliferous  bluish  limestone,  Richmond  Group,  near  Oxford,  O.; 
composed  almost  entirely  of  Brachiopod  shells;  Case  20.  Fossiliferous 
stratified  rock  with  coral  reef ;  rocks  exposed  by  stream  cutting,  which 
outcrop   along  Chenoweth   Creek,  near  Louisville  Ky. 

North  Aisle:  Fossil  Plants,  Petrified  Woods,  etc.  The 
fossil  plants  are  represented  by  a  large  variety,  including  the 
notable  Lacoe  Collection  of  Carboniferous  forms,  comprising 
over  100,000  specimens.  The  collection  has  recently  been  rear- 
ranged and  fully  labeled,  and. even  the  casual  visitor  who  is  not 
a  specialist  must  be  impressed  by  the  giant  exhibits  at  the  W. 
end  of  aisle  and  the  brilliant  colorings  of  the  petrified  woods 
from  the  so-called  "Petrified  Forests"  of  Arizona.  The  follow- 
ing features,  however,  should  be  especially  noted: 

(W.  to  E.)  Base)  of  trunk  and  roots  of  Lepidodendron,  a  gigantic 
carboniferous  tree,  ancestor  of  present-day  Ground  Pine  or  Club-Moss 
(from  Pennsylvania  coal-mine) ;  Sections  of  fossil  tree-trunks  in  which 
the  original  organic  matter  has  been  wholly  replaced  by  silica  in  the 
form  of  chalcedony,  jasper  and  opal;  sandstone  cast  and  mold  of  Club- 
Moss  trunk,  the  inner  surface  of  the1  mold  being  covered  by  the  large 
rhomboidal  figures  of  leaf -cushions,  characteristic  of  the  Lepidodendron; 
Complete  brain-like  calcarious  Algae,  from  Wellington  limestone;  Cycad 
trunk  with  small  leaf  scars;  Fronds  of  various  species  of  extinct  ferns 
from  Pennsylvania  coal  beds;  Clay  with  leaves  of  fossil  fig  and  magnolia, 
Eocene  period;  Classified  collection  illustrating  North  American  fossil 
plants;  Petrified  remainsi  of  a  low  form  of  coral  life,  pressed  into*  true 
coralline  reefs;  Group  (of  silicified  fossil  logs;  Dark  impressions  of  the 
Ulodendron,  giant  fossil  trees  which  contributed  much  material  in  the 
formation  of  coal;  Fossil  oaks,  the  original  wooden  material  replaced 
by  opal;  Polished  cross-sections  of  tree  trunks  changed  toi  opal,  but  still 
showing  the  original  woody  structure;  Fossil  palm  tree,  preserved  in 
fine'-grained  shaile,  showing  the  apex  of  the  trunk,  with  a  crown  of 
six   leaves. 

Main  Floor  continued:    Eastern  Range:  Mineralogy: 

East  wall-cases  (S.  to  N.):  1.  Specimens  of  rock 
showing  various  forms  of  faulting  and  of  faulting  cleavage; 
2.  (on  platform)  :  fine  large  specimens  of  folded  Jaspery 
hematite;  3.  (pilatform)  :  Specimens  of  potholes  in  Basalt; 
4.  Blocks  of  limestone  showing  glacial  action;  5.  a.  (S.  side)  : 
Specimens  illustrating  glaciers  and  glacial  phenomena;  b.  (N. 
side)  :  Specimens  of  volcanic  dust;  specimens  of  deep-sea 
deposits ;  exhibits  illustrating  the  decompositon  of  rocks  and 
the  origin  of  sediments;  6.  Relief  Map  of  the  United  States, 
showing  the  theoretical  restoration  of  the  Ancient  Ice  Sheet 
at  the  statge  of  the  Glacial  period,  following  the  maim  silt 
epoch.  7.  Collection  of  Imitative  Forms,  assumed  by  in- 
organtic  matter  so  closely  resembling  organic  matter  as  to 
be  misleading.  8.  Fine  specimen  of  Glacial  Pothole.  9. 
Concretionary  Granite,  2  specimens.     00.   a.    (S.   side)  ;     Ex- 


PALEONTOLOGY    COLLECTION  287 

hibits  showing  the  processes  of  rock  weathering  and  soil 
formation;  b.  (N.  side):  Exhibit  of  vein  formations  in 
marble,  dolomite,  quartz,  slate,  etc.  II.  (on  platform)  :  Sand- 
stone concretions  from  near  the  mouth  of  Cannon  Ball  River, 
North  Dakota;  12 — 17.  Collection  illustrating  the  process  of 
concretionary  structures ;  Relief  maps,  photographs,  trans- 
parencies and  specimens  illustrating  the  physical  features  of 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park;  18.  Stereogram  of  the  Henry 
Mountains,  Utah;  19.  (on  platform):  Exhibit  of  Columnar 
Basalt  from  quarry  near  Asbach,  Rhenish  Prussia.  20. 
Map  showing  distribution  of  known  meteoric  falls  in  the 
United  States.  21.  Collection  illustrating  volcanoes  and  vol- 
canic phenomena.  Note  especially  "Pele's  Hair,"  from  Kilauea 
crater,  Hawaiian  Islands,  formed  by  the  action  of  the  wind 
in  catching  up  the  jets  of  boiling  lava  and  stringing  the  mate- 
rial into  long  greenish  brown  fibres,  in  which  form  it  cools  too 
quickly  to  permit  of  crystallization.  22.  (table  case)  :  Con- 
tains specimens  of  North  Carolina  flexible  sandstone ;  also 
exhibits  illustrating  the  eruption,  Jan.  10th,  1914,  of  the  long 
inactive  volcano  of  Sakurajami,  Japan;  23.  Siliceous  and 
calcareous  deposits  from  extinct  hot  springs  in  S.  W. 
Wyoming;  24.  a.  (S.  side)  :  Collection  of  Gypsum  incrusta- 
tions, Selenite  crystals  and  other  cave  formations,  chiefly 
from  the  Mammoth  Cave,  Ky. ;  stalagmite  marble,  travertine 
and  calcareous  tufa;  b.  (N.  side)  :  Limestone  caverns  and 
associated  phenomena ;  stalactites  and  stalacmites ;  exhibits 
illustrating  cave  life;  the  cave  bat,  blind  cray  fish,  cave  sala- 
mander and  cave  beetle;  25.  Pictures  and  model  of  section  of 
Marengo  Cave,  Indiana;  26-27.  Stalactites  continued;  This  case% 
contains  the  most  picturesque  and  popularly  interesting  part 
of  this  group. 

Central  Exhibits  ON.  to  S.)  :  These  consist  chiefly  of  the 
Museum's  meteorite  collection,  containing  altogether  several 
hundred  small  specimens ;  also,  on  W.  side  of  the  Range,  casts 
of  some  of  the  largest  known  meteorites.  Case  1.  Portraits 
of  the  principal  geologists  and  paleontogists  of  former  U.  S. 
Geological  Surveys.  2.  Collection  of  portraits  of  early  Amer- 
ican Geologists  and  their  works.  3.  Meteoric  iron.  4.  Meteoric 
stony  iron  found  in  Christan  Co.,  Ky.  5.  Meteoric  iron  con- 
tinned.  6.  Meteorites :  a.  from  Canyon  Diablo,  Ariz. ;  b.  from 
Tucson,  Ariz,  (known  as  the  "Signet")  ;  c.  from  Casas 
Grandes,  Chihuahua,  Mex.  7.  Case  of  meteorites  arranged  to 
show  classification  and  other  features.  8.  Kugel  Gabbro 
(Potatoe  rock),  from  about  70  mi.  S.  E.  of  Christiania, 
Norway.     10-13.  Meteorites  continued. 


288  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

West  Wall  (S.  to  N.)  :  These  cases  contain  a  Systematic 
Collection  of  Rocks,  classified  according  to  the  prevailing 
system  also  the  following  special  exhibits :  Relef  map  of 
Eureka  District,  .'Nevada ;  Typical  Rocksi  of  the  Gem  Region  : 
Collection  illustrating  the  occurrence  of  Tourmaline  and  other 
gems  in  the  Pegmatites  of  southern  California;  Cast  of 
Boculirito  Meteorite;  from  State  of  Sinaloa,  Mex.  Cast  of 
The  Ahnighito  meteorite  (''The  Tent"),  measuring  6  ft.  by 
7  ft.  6  in.,  by  ii  ft.  2  in.  The  orginal  brought  by  Peary 
from  Melville  Bay,  Greenland,  in  1896-7,  is  in  The  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  N.  Y.  Geological  relief  map  of 
Washington  and  Vicnity;  Geological  relief  maps  of  Leadviille, 
Col. 

f.     Exhibits  of  Ethnology 

**The  American  Indian  Exhibits,  constituting  by  far  the 
most  important  part  of  the  Museum's  Ethnological  collec- 
tions, are  displayed  in  the  North  Wing  (in  the  aisles  sur- 
rounding the  National  Picture  Gallery),  and  in  the  North- 
west range,  the  different  tribes  being  arranged  mainly  as 
follows :  Indians  of  Alaska,  British  Columbia,  Greenland, 
etc.,  in  the  South  Aisle;  Indians  of  the  Plains  and  Rockies, 
in  the  West  aisle ;  Pueblo  Indians  and  other  tribes  of  the  iSouth- 
west,  Mexico  and  Central  South  America,  in  the  Northwest 
Range. 

To  the  visitor  entering  from  the  Rotunda,  the  most  con- 
spicuous objects  in  the  South  gallery,  are  the  collection  of 
Totem  Poles,  and  Inside  House  Posts  made  by  the  Haida 
Indians    of    the   village    of    Tanu,    Queen    Charlotte    Island. 

Totem  Pole  is  the  popular  name  for  carved  poles  set)  up  by  Indians 
of  the  Northwest  Coast  of  N'orth  America.  Among  the  Haida  or  Queen 
Charlotte  Island  Indians,  where  they  attained  their  highest  perfection, 
there  were  two  varieties:  one  set  up  in  -front  of  the  house  midway 
between  the  eaves,  and  bearing  the  crests  or  emblems  of  the  owner's  clan 
and  that  of  his  wife's;  secondly,  the  inside  house  posts,  set  up  within 
the  house,  which  support  the  house  beam. 

The  pair  of  House  Posts  immediately  to  R.  and  L.  of  entrance 
are,  of  especial  interest.  Each  consists  of  a  thick  plank ,  of  :giant  cedar 
wood  (Thua  plicata),  carved  and  painted  on  the  front  with  a  decorative 
symbolic  design  representing  an  imaginary  sea-monster  called,  "Tsemos," 
which  is  thought  to  move  erratically  like  a  drifting  tree  whose  roots 
are  laden  with  stones.  Notice  also  a  38  ft.  Totetm  pole  at  extreme 
S.  E.  cor.,  on  which  the  animal  carvings  (beginning  below)  are:  the 
Killer-whale,  Chief,  Sea-monster,  Chief's  hat,  Eagle  and  human  figure 
with  two  toads.  The  Killer-whale  is  the  ownejr's  crest  and  the  eagle 
and  toadsi  are  the  crest  of  his  wife ;  also  a  42  ft.  Totem  pole  at  extreme 
S.  W.  cor.,  the  carved  figures  on  which  are:  a  Beaver,  Whale,  Deep-sea 
Grizzly  Bear,  Cormorant)  and  Eagle. 


ETHNOLOGY    EXHIBITS  289 

The  visitor  will  find  it  convenient  to  proceed  to  the  R. 
and  begin  with  the  few  cases  of  Indian  exhibits  that,  for 
lack  of  space,  have  been  crowded  into  the  S.  end  of  the  E. 
aisle  (which  is  otherwise  devoted  to  the  Asiatic  collections). 
The  central  exhibits  both  here  and  in  all  the  galleries  devoted 
to  ethnology,  consist  largely  of  representative  *Family  Groups, 
admirably  life-like,  and  scientifically  accurate  to  the  minutest 
detail.  The  wall  exhibits  are  cases  containing  collections  illus- 
trative of  the  life  and  culture  of  the  different  tribes,  costumes, 
household  utensils,  weapons,  pottery,  basketry,  textiles,  etc. 
The  numbers  used  in  the  following  list  are  intended  merely 
as  a  guide  to  the  relative  position  of  each  exhibit:  the  cases 
themselves  bear  no  numbers,  but  are  abundantly  supplied 
with  descriptive  placards. 

East  Aisle,  Central  Exhibits :  1.  Smith  Sound  Eskimo, 
called  the  "Arctic  Highlanders,"  the  most  northern  people  in 
the  known  world;  the  group  represents  a  family  as  it  might 
appear  moving  across  the  ice-fields.  (Designed  by  W.  H. 
Holmes,  and  modeled  by  H.  J.  Ellicott)  ;  2.  Dwelling  Group 
of  the  Western  Eskimo,  Western  Alaska,  consisting  of  dome- 
shaped  houses  made  of  earth,  piled  over  a  cob  work  of  timbers; 
3.  Dwelling  Group  of  Central  Eskimos,  consisting  of  a  winter 
house  and.  outbuildings,  and  another  in  course  of  construction ; 
Model  of  dwelling  of  Kinugmut  Eskimo  of  Alaska ;  4.  Family 
Group  of  Western  Eskimo,  illustrating  usual  summer  occupa- 
tions and  amusements. 

East  and  South  Wall  Cases  (N.  to  S.,  beginning  opposite 
4th  Family  Group)  :  Case  1.  Carvings  in  slate  made  by  Haida 
Indians.  The  material  is  fine  grained  and  easily  worked. 
The  figures  represent  the  mythological  characters  and  stories 
that  are  shown  on  Haida  Totem  Poles.  Collection  also  includes 
slate  pipes,  dishes  and  plaques,  stone  mortars,  pestles  and 
shallow  dishes  for  grinding  paint;  Case  2.  Tribes  of  South 
Alaska  and  British  Columbia :  masks,  helmets  and  headdresses ; 
Haida  Chief's  crest  with  plume ;  Bear's  head  dance  mask ;  Bird 
ceremonial  headdress  (Tlinkit)  ;  Seal  clubs;  ancient  Thunder- 
bird  club;  Slave  killer  (Haida)  ;  Case  3-  Alaskan  Indians 
continued.  Carving,  inlaying  and  metal  work.  Rattles  and 
wooden  pipes ;  carved  charms,  ear  pendants  and  medicine  sticks 
of  shell,  horn  and  bone;  stone  Totemic  charms;  Case  4.  (N. 
Wall)  War  costumes  and  weapons  of  the  Aleuts,  Tlinkit, 
Haida  and  Chilkat;  plate,  slat,  rod  and  skin  armour;  helmets, 
greaves,  clubs,  bows  quivers,  etc.;  Case  5.  Basketry  of  N.  W. 
Coast  Indians:  Decorated  baskets  for  various  ornamental  and 
useful  purposes:  Haida  ceremonial  hat,  with  mythological 
devices  representing  Totemic  animals. 


2Q0  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

West  Wall  Cases  (N.  to  S.,  beginning  opposite  4th  Central 
Case)  :  1.  Tribes  of  the  North  Pacific  Coast :  costumes,  tex- 
tiles and  wood  carving;  2.  Indian  decorative  art.  collection 
of  decorated  wooden  masks,  painted  rug,  carved  wooden 
figures;  3.  Chests  of  cedar  wood,  carved  and  painted  with 
Totemic  designs. 

The  visitor  now  passes  again  through  entrance  vestibule, 
continuing  inspection  of  cases  on  S.  Wall:  1.  (E.  of  door- 
way) :  Alaskan  Basketry  continued :  Baby  shoes,  mats,  baskets 
and  bags,  made  from  Carex  which  flourishes  abundantly  in  S. 
Alaska;  2.  (W.  of  doorway):  Costumed  figures  of  Eskimo 
men  and  women  from  Kotzebue  Sound,  Point  Barrow  and 
Labrador. 

West  Aisle:  Central  Exhibits  (S.  to  N.)  :  Family  Groups: 
1.  Chilkat  household,  consisting  of  wood  worker,  carving  a 
ceremonial  mask ;  woman  weaving  a  Totemic  blanket ;  girl 
serving  man  in  ceremonial  costume,  etc.  Designed  by  W.  H. 
Holmes;  2.  Collection  of  carved  wooden  vessels ;  3.  Textile 
work  of  Tribes  of  Columbia  River  Region  (Salish)  ;  male 
figure  wearing  woven  blanket ;  4.  Table  Case  showing  develop- 
ment of  slashing  weapons  with  short  hilts  :  weapons  for  cut- 
ting and  thrusting;  also  hand  weapons  for  stabbing  and  pierc- 
ing; 5.  Family  Group  of  Loucheux,  type  of  the  Yukon- 
Mackenzie  Province;  6.  Iroquois  Village  Group,  Northern 
New  York,  representing  a  stockaded  village  oT  Ihe  Iroquois 
Confederac3^  during  the  Aboriginal  Period.  Modeled  by  /.  B. 
Millner;  7.  Dwelling  Group  of  Seminole  Indians,  Florida.  In 
center   is    house    where   cooking    is    done;    8.  Navaho    Indians 

9.  Dwelling   Group    of   the    Papago    Indians,    Sonora,    Mex. ; 

10.  Dwelling  Group  of  Sioux  Indians ;  11.  Dwelling  Group 
of  the  Chippewa  Indians,  Lake  Superior  Region;  Models  of 
houses  of  birch  bark,  mats  and  rushes;  12.  Family  Group: 
Navaho  Indian  blanket  makers ;  one  woman  spinning  and  the 
other  weaving;  13.  Table  Case:  Development  of  the  spindle 
and  shuttle;  14.  Table  Case:  Development  of  the  lamp,  from 
the  crudest  stone  lamp  to  the  electric  bulb ;  15.  Family  Group : 
Zuni  women  (New  Mex.)  making  pottery;  16.  Table 
Case :  Showing  development  of  the  adze  and  the  hammer ; 
17.  Table  Case:  Showing  development  of  the  Fish-hook  and 
Harpoon  Barb ;  18.  Family  Group  of  the  Sioux  Indians,  type 
of  the  Aborigines  of  the  Great  Plains  region ;  19.  Table 
Case :  Development  of  the  drill,  the  scraper,  the  jack-knife 
and  the  saw ;  20.  ^Historic  Group ;  Captain  John  Smith  trading 
with  the  Powhatan  Indians.  Designed  by  W.  H.  Holmes;  21. 
Table  Case:  Showing  development  of  knife,  fork,  spoon,  cup 
and  tobacco  pipe;  22.  Family  Group  of  Cocopa  Indians  of  far 


ETHNOLOGY  EXHIBITS  291 

Southwest,  intended  as  type  of  this  region:  Group  includes 
woman  milling  corn  in  wooden  mortar,  young  man  teaching 
boy  the  use  of  bow  and  arrow,  returning  hunter  asking  for 
water,  and  woman  winnowing  grass-seed. 

West  Wall  Cases  (N.  to  S.) :  1.  Burial  frame  of  a  Cheyenne 
child;  2.  Model  of  Sioux  woman  and  child;  3.  Sioux  Indian  warrior, 
wearing  war  shirt  with  bead  work,  cu||  fringe  and  scalp  trophies,  plume 
of  eagle  feather  and  necklace  of  bear's  claws.  The  face  is  that  of 
Kicking  Bear,  a  Sioux  Medicine  Man,  who  was  prominent  with  Sitting 
Bull  in  the  Ghost  Dance  craze  of  1890.  The  costume  was  secured  from 
hinii  and  a  cast  taken  of  his  face  when  he  visited  Washington  in  1902. 
4.  George]  Catlin  Collection:  Relics  of  Catlin's  Explorations  among  the 
Indians,  1830-71;  5.  Examples  of  work  in  quills  and  Moose-hair,  on 
moccasins,  shirts,  leggins,  belts,  pouches,  fringes,  necklaces,  etc.; 
6.  Indians  of  the  Northern  Plains  continued,  chiefly  Sioux:  Woman's 
painted  robe,  beaded  cradle,  sun-dance  robe  (Blackfeet);  Sitting  Bull's 
flintlock;  Chief  Gall's  quiver;  Beaded  shirt,  feather  headdress;  scalp 
of  Nez  Perce;  7.  Charms,  trophies  and  examples  of  objects  connected 
with  native  religion,  which  were  used  principally  by  western  tribes; 
8.  Osage  Indians,  Okla.;  Sacred  bundles  used  in  ceremonies;  9-10.  Plains 
and  Rocky  Mountains  Tribes;  Beaded  tobaqco  pouches;  pipes,  flutes, 
whistles  and  drums;  Ston-head  war  clubs;  bone  war  clubs  with  spikes; 
ceremonial  shields  and  shield-covers,  quivers,  bows,  arrows  and  toma- 
hawks; 11.  James  Mooney  Collection:  Earthenware  vessels  of  Cherokee 
(N.  C.)  Indians;  Seneca  (N.  Y.)  Indians:  Flutes,  bark-rattles,  etc.; 
Iroquois     (N.     Y.)     Indians;     silver    brooch,     beadwork    pouches,     etc.; 

12.  Tribes  of  the  Northern  Woodlands;  Collection  ofl  Rev.  Peter  Jones, 
a  half-blood  Ojibwa  Indian,  who  became  a  Christian  missionary.'"  This 
collection  includes  a  beaded  bandolier  and  headdress  worn  by  Indian 
delegate  to  the  Court  of  George  XV  and  Queen  Victoria;  an  ancient 
knob-club,  scalping  knife,  medicine-bone,  wampum,  etc.  In  same  case 
are  birch  bark  vessels  and  other  implements  of  the  Ojibwa  sugar  industry. 

13.  Tools  of  the  Eskimo;  14.  Eskimo  work-boxes,  tool-boxes,  boxes 
for  lance-heads,  snuff,  trinkets,  etc.;  15.  Lamps  of  the  Eskimo;  from 
Labrador     and     Greenland     on     E.     to    Alaska    and     Aleutian     Islands; 

16.  Dwelling  Groups  of    Digger  Indians   (type  of /Calif ornian   Province); 

17.  Alaskan  Collection  lent  by  Mrs.  W .  H.  Emory;  18.  Western  Eskimo. 
Wooden  dishes,  pails,  dippers,  ladles  and  spoons,  cut  from  solid  wood ; 
19.  (S.  Wall)  Eskimo  continued :  Harpoons  and  bird  tridents,  fish 
spears,    throwing    sticks    and    sinew-backed    bows. 

East  Wall  Cases  (S.  to  N.  This  is  a  continuous  case, 
divided  only  by  the  structural  columns  along  the  E,  wall. 
The  numbers  refer  to  alcoves  between  columns)  : 

1.  Tribes  of  Alaska:  Costumes  of  Tinkit  and  Haida  Tribes; 
2.  Eskimo  of  S.  E.  Alaska:  Garments,  including,  a  waterproof  dress, 
weapons,  paddle,  icie-skimmers,  lamps,  boxes,  snow-shoes,  and  a  com- 
plete skin  canoe  or  kayak:  also  model  of  house  showing  method  of 
construction:  3.  Greenland  Eskimo;  Costumes  of  ornamented  sealskin, 
robes  of  eiderdown,  full-size  dog-sled,  spears  and  small  models  of 
native  boats;  also  exhibit  of  the  Labrador  Indians,  including  fur  cos- 
tume, painted-skin  dress,  snow-shoes,  toboggan  sleds  and  model  of 
house;  4.  Tribes  of  Northern  Canada.  Tanned-skin  clothing,  dishes, 
household  utensils,  bows,  nets  and  snow-shoes;  Indians  of  the  Eastern 
and\  Southern  States;  Baskets,  household  utensils,  masks;  also  figure  of 
Seminole  man  wearing  a  Chief's  costume  of  today:  5.  Chipewa  Indians: 
Floor-mats,  beaded  tobacco  bags,  household  and  agricultural  implements; 
6.    Sioux   Indians:     beaded    clothing,    robes,   dried   foods,   baskets,    sticks 


2Q2  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

and  stones  used  in  clmnkey  game,  stick  and  balls  used  in,  shinny  game, 
woman's  elk-tooth  dress,  papoose  cradle,  stone  mallets,  war  bonnets, 
bows  and  spears;  7.  Kiowa  Indians.  Costumes,  medicine  staffs,  sclalp- 
lock  dress  ornament,  saddles,  shields,  lances,  beaded  cradles  and  reed 
beds;  8.  Arapaho  and  Cheyenne  Indians:  Robes,  rawhide  cases,  lance?^ 
shields,  all  ornamented  with  paint,  feathers,  beads  and  elk  teeth;  also 
buffalo*  skulls  and  horns,  war  bonnets  and  war  clubs;  9.  Tribes  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains;  Utes  and  other  Shoshones:  Costumes  of  an  early 
day,  collected  by  Major  J.  W.  Powell  and  others. 

The  visitor  now  turns  W.  (opposite  elevators)  into — 
Northwest  Range,  North  Section.     Indians  of  the  South- 
western United  States,  Central  and  South  America : 

Central  Exhibition  Cases  CE-.  to  W.),  These  exhibits 
consist  mainly  of  Family  Groups  alternating  with  Table 
Cases  showing  historical  development  of  implements, 
weapons  and  arts  and  crafts.  1.  (E.  Wall  Case)  Basketry 
of  the  Fraser-Columbia  region;  2.  Table  Case;  Development 
of  the  Torch  and  Candle ;  3.  Family  group  of  Hupa  Indians 
from  northern  California ;  4.  Table  Case :  Development  of 
Fire  Making  and  Illumination  from  primitive  method  of  fric- 
tion to  the  electric  light ;  5.  Family  group  of  eight  Pueblo 
Indians,  ithe  Zuni  of  New  Mexico :  Man  'bringing  home  his 
crop  of  vegetables  and  fruit ;  woman  weaving  a  belt  on  her 
hand -loom;  young  girl  carrying  a  jar  of  water  on  her  head; 
man  drilling  Turquoise  for  beads,  etc. ;  6.  Table  Case.  De- 
velopment of  European  Ax  and  Aboriginal  American  Ax ;  7. 
Family  group  of  Hopi  Indians  from  northeastern  Arizona ; 
8.  Table  Case:  History  of  Weaving,  including  the  spindle, 
shuttle  and  loom;  9.  *The  Snake  Dance:  an  episode  in  a  Hopi 
Dance  for  Rain,  designed  by  W.  H.  Holmes,  and  modeled  by 
U.  S.  J.  Dunbar.     10.  Table  Case:  Development  of  Tools  and 

These  Indians  celebrate  in  the  month  of  August,  at  intervals  of 
in  black,  brown,  red  and  yellow.  Mohave,  Cocopa  and  Yuma,  Tribes; 
pose  being  to  beseech  the  gods  for  rain  for  their  crops.  The  culmi- 
nation is  an  open  air  ceremony  in  which  live  snakes  are  carried,  and 
the  most  striking  episode  in  this  dance  is  presented  in  this  group,  which 
shows  a  trio  of  Snake  priests,  respectively  the  "Carrier  "  tie  "Sus- 
tainer"  and  the  "Collector,"  a  line  of  priests  of  the  Antelope  Society 
who  act  as  chorus,  and  a  maid  and  matron  whose  office  it  is,  along 
with  others,  to  scatter  sacred  meal  on  the  participants  as  a  sacrifice  to 
the  gods. 

Appliances  used  in  Metal  Working;  11.  The  Arrow  Makers: 
Group  illustrating  the  manufacture  of  stone  implements  by 
the  American  aborigines ;  modeled  by  U.  S.  J.  Dunbar;  12.  Table 
Case:  Reduction  in  Metal  Working;  also  Methods  of  Manu- 
facture, including  hammering,  casting,  overlaying,  etc.;  13. 
Kiowa  Group:  Indian  children  at  play,  showing  child 
life  of  Plains  Indians  as  illustrated  by  the  wheel  and  dart 
game,   whip  and  tops,   and   mimic  warfare;    14.  Table   Case: 


ETHNOLOGY  EXHIBITS  293 

Toggle  harpoons,  sinkers,  fish-hooks  and  lines ;  15.  Family 
group  of  Tehuelche  Indians  (Patagonian  region)  breaking 
camp;  17.  Family  group  of  four  Maya-Quiche  Indians  (type 
of  the  Central  American  region)  ;  group  designed  by  W.  H. 
Holmes,  modeled  iby  U.  S.  J.  Dunbar;  woman  grinding  corn 
on  a  stone;  man  carrying  corn  in  a  net-bag  over  his  shoulder, 
etc.;  18.  Feather  work,  basketry  and  bead  work  of  Indians 
of  British  Guiana.  19.  (to  R.)  Model  of  Mission  Church, 
Zuni  Puelblo,  New  Mexico;  Estufa  or  "Kiva"  (Ceremonial 
room),  Jamez  Pueblo,  New  Mexico;  20.  Model  of  the  Hopi 
Pueblo,  N.  E.,  Arizona.  The  mesa  in  which  it  is  situated 
is  about  500  ft.,  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  and  totally  des- 
titute of  vegetation.  'Modeled  by  Victor  and  Cosmos  Min- 
deleff;  21.  (N.  to  S.)  a.  Dwelling  Group  of  the 
Tehuelche  Indians,  type  of  the  Patagonian  Region,  b.  Dwell- 
ing Group  of  the  Goajiros  Indians,  type  of  the  Orinoco 
Region.  22.  Ancient  Sun-Shrine,  crescentic  mass  of  weather- 
worn sandstone.  From  sandy  mesa  in  Arizona ;  Cases  23-25 
are  the  southernmost  row  in  the  N.  W.  Pavilion.  From  E. 
to  W.  they  contain :  23.  Industries  of  Pima  Indians,  Ariz. : 
Loom  with  cloth  in  process,  doll  in  cradle,  woven  belt,  hair 
ornaments  and  shields ;  Pima,  Papago  and  Maricopa  Tribes : 
Bows  and  arrows,  carrying  baskets  and  saddles.  24.  Tribes 
of  South  America:  Textiles,  robes,,  skirts,  girdles,  hammocks 
and  bags,  made  from  skin,  bark,  cotton  and  other  vegetable 
fibre.  25.  Tribes  of  Peru,  Central  Brazil,  Guiana  and  Argen- 
tina: Bows  and  arrows. 

The  visitor  may  now  return  to  E.  end  and  inspect  the 
exhibits  on  the  northern  side. 

Wall  Cases,  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  i.  Mohave  Indian  Chief. 
Yuman  stock,  from  hot  desert  region  of  Southwest  Arizona.  Modeled 
by  Theodore  Mills;  2.  Hupa  Indians  of  the  Valley  of  Trinity  River, 
Cal.:  Baskets,  carved  elkhorn  spoons,  stone  knives,  pestles,  baking 
dishes,  etc.;  3.  Costumes,  ornaments,  ceremonial  head-d'resses,  etc.,  of 
the  Hupa,  lamath,  McCloud,  Porno  and  Tulare  Indians  of  California; 
4.  Tribes  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  In  N.  E.  Arizona  are  the 
Hopi  Indians,  the  westernmost  of  the  Pueblo  Indians.  They  pre- 
serve more  fully  than  other  Pueblo  tribes  the  ancient  arts  and  customs. 
This  case  contains  .pottery,  matting,  spindles,  bows  and  arrows,  stone 
implements,  etc.;  5.  Seri  Indian  Hunter,  modeled  by  U.  S.  J.  Dunbar: 
also  Birdskin  Blanket  of  Seri  Indians,  made  from!  the  California  Brown 
Pelican,  Pelkanus  Californicus ;  and  a  child's  garment  of  Cormorant 
skins,    Phalaerocorax    pencillatus. 

The  Seri  Indians  occupy  Tiburon  Island,  the  Gulf  of  California. 
They  wear  skirts  of  pelican  skins,  and  are  noted  for  their  large  stature, 
slender  limbs,  and  great  breadth  and  depth  of  chest. 

6.  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  continued:  Zuni  Pueblo  Indians:  Cere- 
monial Dolls,  madq  by  a  Zuni  in  imitation  of  the  men,  who  personified 
the  gods  in  sacred  ceremonies;  they  are  used  by  the  mothers  in  teaching 
their  children  the   symbolism   of    the  gods;    (same   cases)    Masks    of    the 


294  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Zuhi  Kok-ko  Society,  worn  by  members  of  the  Sacred  Dance  Fraternity 
when  personating  the  ancestral  god's;  7.  Ceremonial  objects  of  the 
Zunis:  Feather  wands,  sword-swallower's  wands,  sacred  bundles,  rattles, 
and  sacred  games  used  in  various  ceremonies;  8.  New  Mexico  and 
Arizona  continued:  Zuni  Pueblo  Indians,  living  in  Western  New  Mexico 
on  one  of  the  head  streams  of  the  Little  Colorado  River:  Case  contains 
pottery,  basketry,  gourd  vessels,  spindles,  etc.;  9.  *Relics  from  Pueblo 
Indian  Missions  of  New  Mexico,  antedating  those  of  California :  Holy 
Water  Font,  carved  and  painted  wooden  figures,  paintings  on  skins 
and  on  wood,  crosses,  and  sconces;  also  paintings  on  dressed  bualo  skins. 
These  paintings  are  a  combination  of  Christian  and  pagan  art,  due  to 
•the  crude  ideas  of  the<  Indians  who  designed  them.  Done  by  Indian 
converts,  under  direction  of  the  Mission  Fathers;  10.  Tribes  of  Southern 
Arizona,  the)  Pima,  Papago  and  Maricopa  Indians,  Lower  Gila  and  Salt 
Rivers  (these  tribes  have  now  coalesced  and  are  now  practically  uniform 
in    culture):     Pottery,     basketry,     brushes,     clubs,     drums,     flutes,     etc.; 

11.  Woman  of  Chiapas,   Southern  Mexico,  modeled  by  'U.  S.  J.  Dunbar; 

12.  Tribes  of  California,  Kawia  and  Dieguenos  Indians,  inhabiting  the 
mission  area  of  S.  Cal. :  Specimens  of  pottery,  basketry,  gourd  vessels, 
etc.;  13.  Mexican  tribes:  Yaki,  Tarahumare,  Cora,  and  other  tribes: 
woven  pouches,  etq. ;  14.  Mexican  Tribes  continued:  Lacquered  bowls, 
machetes,  water  jars  and  other  articles  illustrative  of  arts  derived  from 
aboriginal  sources,  but  which  cannot  now  be  traced  to  any  particular 
tribe;  15.  West  Indian  Islands  (Haiti,  Porto  Rico,  San  Domingo  and 
Cuba):  Baskets,  igourds,  guitars,  etc.;  also  Indian  'tribes  of  Central 
America  (Panama,  Casta  Rica  and  Guatemala)  :  Garments  of  Kekchi 
women;  mask  and  dance  costume  of  Talamanca  Indians;  16.  Talamanca 
and  Guatuso  Indians  of  Costa  Rica  Inland  Forests,  and  now  on  the 
verge  of  extinction;  Bows,  arrows,  pottery,  necklaces  of  jaguar  teeth. 
Note  the  crudity  of  the  art;  17.  Upper  Amazon  'River:  a.  Peru,  various 
tribes 3  Textiles,  ornaments,  musical  instruments;  also1  Ancient  Peruvian 
Mummy;  b.  Bolivia:  various  tribes:  Blankets  and  slings  of  vicuna  wool; 
niodels  of  reed  boats,  c.  Brazil,  various  robes;  Bark  cloth,  wood  carv- 
ing; 18.  Tribes  of  British  Guiana  (Carib  and  Arawak)  :  Fine  basketry 
and  well-developed  pottery;  19.  a.  Argentine,  various  tribes;  Textiles, 
ornaments,  pies  and  ear-plugs;  b.  Paraguay:  Feather  cinctures,  plumes, 
shell   and  bear  ornaments,  knit  hammocks  and   bags. 

West  Wall  (Same  Series  continued)  :  20.  Tribes  of  the  Amazon,  the 
Bororo,  and  other  groups:  Specimens  brought  home  in  1852  by  Herndon 
and  Gibbon,  including  bows,  clubs,  spears  and  arrows;  also  two  dried 
heady  of  Xivaro  Indians  (skull  removed  and  head  shrivelled  to  one- 
third  natural  size);  21.  Patagonian  tribes.  Painted  robes  of  horehide, 
skins  and  robes  (of  Guanaco,  boots,  spurs,  bolas,  etc.;  22.  Paraguay: 
Gran  Chaco  Indians  (tribes  similar  in  culture  to  the  Plains  Indians  of 
North  America) :  Arrows,  bows,  clubs,  feather  headdresses,  costumes, 
etc.;  23.  Xivaro  Chief,  modeled  by  Theodore  A.  Mills.  Note  especially 
the  resplendent  costume  ornamented  with  the  vivid  plumage  of  South 
American  birds;  24.  Tribes  of  Fuegia,  the  Alikulof  and  other  groups: 
Bows,  spears,  fish-nets   of  sinew-  harpoon-heads,  etc. 

South  Wall.  A  colonnade  here  forms  an  aisle  on  the 
S.  side,  which  is  divided  by  transverse  cases  into  a  series 
of  alcoves,  partly  screened  from  view  by  the  outer  row  of 
cases  facing  the  central  Family  Groups. 

(E.  to  W.)  Alcove  1:  Basketry  of  Middle  and  South  America;  the 
checker  and  twilled  work  from  British  Guiana  and  ancient  Peru; 
basketry  of  California  tribes,  including  thei  Maidu,  Panamint,  Washo, 
Tulare  and  Mission  Indians;  Tahltan  tribe,  British  Columbia;  necklaces, 
bracelets,    belts,    beaded   bags    and    fans;    leather-working    tools,    paints 


ETHNOLOGY  EXHIBITS  295 

and  dyes;  Apache  Man  and  Squaw;  twined  and  coiled  basketry  of  Porno 
Indians.  Tribes  of  I'uget  Sound  Region:  mats,  robes,  skirts,  carrying 
bands,   baskets,   clubs,  tools   and  digging  sticks. 

Alcove  2^  Ella  F.  Hubby  Collection  of  California  Indian  Baskets, 
received  in  1921,  andi  including  specimens  by  the  Luisefios,  Channel, 
Mission,  Coahuilla,  Piute,  Muna,  Maidu,  Mono  and  others.  L'aoiric 
Coast  Tribes:  Bows,  arrows  and  quivers  from  various  tribes  of  Oregon 
and  California.  Costume  and  adornment  of  California  Tribes.  Tribes 
of  Eastern  States:  Basketry  of  the  Iroquois,  Cherokee,  Chocktaw  and 
Cheetimacha    Indians. 

Alcove  3:  Tribes,  of  the  Pueblo  Region:  (Arizona  and  New  Mex- 
ico) :  Every-day  tools  and  utensils  of  the  Hopi  and  Zuni.  Leather 
shields  decorated  in  Pueblo  symbolic  art;  war  hats,  spears,  bows  and 
arrows  of  Zuni  and  Upper  Rio  Grande  Pueblos;  boomerang-like  clubs 
of  the  Hopi;  bows  for  war,  hunting  and  ceremony.  Basketry  of  the 
Apache,  Pima,  Papago,  Seri.  Pueblo  music  and  games;  flutes  and 
rattles;  rums  made  from  hollow  logs;  tops,  shuttlecock,  and  cup-and- 
ball-and-sticks.     Dwelling  Group  of   Pawnee  Indian. 

Alcove  4:  Pueblo  Tribes  continued.  Costumes  of  cotton  and  wool, 
moccasins,  belts  and  blankets.  Navaho,  New  Mexico  and  Arizona 
weaving;  Blankets,  belts  and  looms.  Basketry  of  various  Pacific  Coast 
tribes.  Ceremonial  dolls  of  the  Hopi  Indians,  carved  from  the  root  of 
the  cottonwood  tree.  Hopi  and  Zuni  ceremonial  headdresses  of  carved 
and  painted  wood;  masks  of  leather,  cloth  and  basketry;  ceremonial 
shields,  etc.      Metal   work  of   the  Navaho  Indians. 

Alcove  5:  Zuni  decorated  pottery:  The  ware  is  made  by  coiling 
ropes  of  clay  and  pressing  them  together;  the  surface  is  covered  with  a 
wash  of  white  clay,  and  designs  in  iron  ore  colors  arel  painted  on,  and 
the  ware  fired  in  a  primitive  kiln.  All  the  designs  are  symbolic.  Hopi 
weaving  and  embroidery:  Ceremonial  sash;  man's  sacred  sash;  man's 
sacred  kilt;  ceremonial  blanket;  Bride's  blanket  (pure  white);  looms 
for  weaving  belts,  sashes  and  blankets;  spindle  with  yarn,  weft  combs, 
weaving  sticks,  etc.  Hopi  pottery:  The  middle  row  shows  Naftipeo's 
revival  of  ancient  forms  and  designs;  examples  of  ancient  Hopi  vases 
from  ruined  Pueblos.  Dwelling  Group  of  Jarnamadi  Indians  (West 
Brazil).      Dwelling   Group   of    Navaho. 

Alcove  6:  Acoma  and  Sia  Pueblos.  N.  M. :  Acoma  decorated  pottery 
in  black,  brown,  red  and  yellow.  Mohave,  Cocopa  and  Yuma  Tribes; 
Yuma  ceremoniail  headdresses;  willow  work,  war  club,,  cradle  frame, 
pottery  bowls,  basketry,  etc.  Model  of  Altar  of  Little  Fire  Fraternity, 
Zuni  Indians,  New  Mexico:  Ancient  Shrine  of  Awatobi,  Maki  Reservation 
discovered  by  Don  Pedro  de  Tabor  in  1540.  In  1700  warriors  from  other 
Hopi  pueblos,  believing  that  the  Awatobis  had  become  sorcerers  on 
account  of  their  cordial  reception  of  the  padres  of  the  Franciscan 
Mission,  pillaged  this  pueblo  and  massacred  the  inhabitants.  This  shrine 
was  found  in  the  middle  of  the  river  where  the  warriors  were  congre- 
gated on  the  fatal  night.  The  Apache,  Arizona:  Weapons  of  war, 
costumes,  leather  work  and  basketry.  Collections  of  offerings  at  various 
Indian  Shrines.  Decorated  pottery  from  Rio  Grande  Pueblo.  Dwelling 
Group  of  the  Carib   Indians,   British   Guiana. 

Alcove  7:  Rio  Grand  Pueblo  pottery:  A  black,  burnished  type, 
made  chiefly  at  Santa  Clara  Pueblo.  Navaho  Blankets:  also  saddle  blan- 
kets, dress,  pueblo  sash,  and  models  of  looms.  Pueblo  of  Taos,  N.  M. 
(one  of  the  Rio  Grande  group  of  Pueblos),  modeled  by  W.  H.  Jackson. 
Collection  from  Mexico  (made  by  Harry  S.  Bryan)  :  Crucifixes,  bead 
work,  embroidery,  etc.     Model  of  a  oki  ^.ltar. 

Alcove  8:  Tribes  of  Panama:  Costumes,  basketry,  tools,  toys,  masks, 
etc.  Tribes  of  Mexico:  Objects  used  in  manufacture  of  Pulque,  Mescal 
and  Palm-wine  by  Mexican  Indians;  also  specimens  of  plants  from 
which  these  drinks  are  made;    specimens  of   cord    making  and    weaving. 


2g6  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Model  of  the  Pueblo  of  Oraibi  ("Place  on  the  Rock"),  the  largest 
of  the  Hopi  Pueblos,  99  miles  N.  E.  of  Flagstaff,  Arizona.  Modeled 
by  Victor  and  Cosmos  Mindeleff.  .Life  forms  in  pottery  (of  Pueblo 
Region),  figurines  of  birds,  including  owls,  ducks,  etc.  On  S.  wall,  and 
continuing  W.  to  end  of  wall,  is  a  portion  of  the  W.  E.  Safford  Collec- 
tion of  Indian  portraits,  mainly  from  Peruvian  Tribes:  Cashivo  Girl, 
Napo  Indian,  Fuegian  Man,  etc. 

North  Wing:  East  Aisle.  Ethnology,  continued:  Europe 
Asia  and  Africa. 

Central  Cases  (S.  to  N.),  beginning  opposite  the  second 
window  N.  of  Eskimo,  Group'  (p.  291)  :  1.  Model  of  the  Wat 
Chang  or  "Great  Monastery  Pagoda,"  the  finest  edifice  of 
Bangkok,  Siam,  gift  of  Marquis  Visuddha,  Siamese  Minister  to 
England;  2.  Parsee  ceremonial  objects,  including  fire  urn,  used 
to  hold  sacred  fire,  religious  costume,  suit  of  Parsee  school 
girl;  also  model  of  Parsee  Tower  of  Silence  or  Dakhma; 
3.  Chinese  porcelains  and  furniture  collected  on  the  Perry  Ex- 
pedition of  1853.  4.  Table  case  containing  Shinto  charms; 
5.  The  minor  arts  of  India,  metal  work,  wood  work,  lacquer, 
etc.:  Examples  of  furniture,  hangings,  jewelry,  domestic 
utensils  and  figurines.  6.  The  George  Keenan  Collection  (loaned) 
of  Central  Asian  and  other  Weapons,  consisting  of  scimitars, 
broad-swords,  daggers,  pistols,  guns,  etc.,  of  gold,  silver,  steel 
and  ivory,  also  duelling  pistols,  guns  and  swords  of  artistic 
and  historic  interest,  including  African  weapons  secured 
during  the  Stanley  Expedition.  7.  and  8.  Cases  containing 
lacquer  boxes,  bottles  and  other  objects  of  Chinese  art;  9.  Col- 
lection of  equipments  of  war  of  the  Japanese  Feudal  period. 
Collected  by  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Albert  Beveredge,  Horace 
Capron  and  others.  It  includes  specimens  of  spears,  saddles, 
helmets,  stirrups  and  two  life-size  figures  in  armor;  10.  Pujah 
set,  or  ceremonial  vessels  used  in  Hindu  family  worship ;  11. 
Dwelling  Group  of  the  Aino,  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of 
Yezo,  Japan;  12.  Objects  of  Buddhist  religious  art,  including 
bronze  seated  statues  of  Buddha,  etc.  Case  containing  exam- 
ples of  Chinese  art  in  porcelain,  ivory,  jade,  pewter,  etc. ;  13. 
Social  life  and  arts  of  the  Siamese  Empire,  including  objects 
conneced  with  the  Palace  of  the  King  and  Royal  Family;  also 
weapons  and  theatrical  masks  ,and  models  of  Siamese  boats ; 
14.  Group  of  six  Japanese  warriors  representing  a  Japanese 
General  receiving  tidings  of  a  disaster  from  an  escaped  prisoner. 
The  armor,  spears,  etc.,  are  the  kind  used  400  years  ago.  Made 
and  costumed  in  Japan;  15.  Ancient  costume  of  Japan;  two 
life-sized  figures,  man  and  woman,  showing  the  beautiful 
fabrics  of  ancien  ttmes ;  16,  Japanese  lady  and  maid-servant 
costumed  in  style  formery  in  vogue;   17.  Objects  of  Hebrew 


ETHNOLOGY    EXHIBITS  297 

religious  worship :  prayer  shawls ;   old  English  Sabbath  lamp 
made  for  ten  wicks,  with  oil  dipper  beneath. 

East  Aisle,  continued.  West  Wall  Cases  (N.  to  S.) :  i.  European 
Kwlk  Art:  Costumes,  jewelry,  pottery,  etc.,  from  Rumania,  Bulgaria, 
Greece,  Servia,  Spain,  Sweden,  Finland  and  Iceland;  2.  Ghadames  girl 
(Hamitic  Family),  life-size  figure  of  12-year  old  girl,  Berber  race;  3. 
Peoples  of  North  Africa:  Moorish  Art.  Specimens  of  weaving, 
em  broidery  and  metal  work  employed  in  rugs,  hangings,  saddles  and 
costumes.  The  saddles  were  presented  by  Theodore  Roosevelt  and 
Talcott  Williams;  4.  Siam.  Articles  presented  by  the  King  of  Siam  in 
1876,  including  Sarongs  or  men's  waist  dress,  baskets,  matting,  drums, 
lacquer  and  brass  work;  5.  Peoples  of  the  Chinese  Empire:  Articles 
illustrating  the  social  life  of  Tibetans  and  Mongols;  also7  life-size  figures 
of  Mongol  and  Tibetan  men,  modeled  by  Theodore  A.  Mills;  6. 
Chinese  Empire,  continued :  Chinese  Imperial  robes,  made  at  the  royal 
looms  at  Mukden  and  .woven  by  members  of  the  Imperial  family;  7. 
Peoples  of  the  Japanese  Empire:  The  Koreans.  Dress  worn  by  men, 
women  and  children,  hats,  belts,  screens,  cabinets,  cooking  utensils  of 
soapstone;  also  life-size  figure  representing  Korean  gentleman  in  street 
costume.  8-9.  Japanese  Empire,  continued.  Robes  of  silk  worn  at 
Court  ceremonies;  Buddhist  shrine;  lacquer  boxes,  buckets,  candlesticks 
and  other  domestic  utensils;  two  life-size  figures  in.  native  costumes; 
10.  The  Ainos  of  Yezo:  Specimens  of  their  chief  industries,  weaving 
and  wood-carving.  The  remaining  exhibits  S.  of  this  point  have  already 
been   described    under   "Indians    of   the    North   Pacific    Coast''    (p.   290). 

East  Wall  Cases  (S.  to  N.)  :  beginning  beyond  second  window,  next 
to  Eskimo  exhibit  (p.  291).  The  collections  in  these  cases  illustrate 
mainly  the  principal  Religions  of  Asia  and  Europe:  1.  Buddhism: 
Collection  of  images  of  Buddha  and  various  articles  connected  with 
Buddhist  ceremonials.  2.  Statue  of  Teak  wood,  lacquered  (6  ft.  5  in.  in 
height);  3.  6*.  -S\  Howland  Collection  of  Buddhist  Art.  Buddha  Sitting 
in  Meditation  (bronze)  ;  Buddhai  passing  into  Nirvana  (Alabaster  gilded 
and  encrusted  with  precious  stones) ;  Chinese  Gods  of  War  and  ot 
Peace  (gilded  wood) ;  Buddhist  Shrine,  representing  Buddha  seated  on 
a  lotus  and  surrounded  by  14  other  figures  representing  gods,  saints  and 
temporal  guards;  4.  Shintoism,  the  national  and  official  religion  ot 
Japan;  Shinto  Shrines  of  various  kinds;  Mikoshii  or  portable  Shrine; 
household  shrines;  Shrine  of  Inari  or  Fox  Goddess;  temple  masks,  straw 
chaplets,  etc.:  Brahmanism:  Images  of  Brahma,  Vishnu,  Siva.  Lakshmi, 
Devi,  etc.;  the  ten  Incarnations  of  Vishnu;  5.  Mohammedanism :  Arabic 
manuscript  of  the  Koran  in  Mack,  red  and  gold  on  vellum;  prayer  rug, 
wooden  model  of  a  mosque;  mosque  tablets  from  Constantinople.  6. 
Costume  of  Dancing  Dervish  and  of  Persian  Priest.  7.  Tuscany: 
Costume  of  the  Misericordia,  a  charitable  secret  order  in  Florence. 
8.  The  Eastern  or  Greek  Church:  Ecclesiastical  vestment  of  Russian 
priest;  Pastoral  staff  of  Greek  Catholic  Bishoo;  Russian  Icons;  Armenian 
natriarch's  staff,  from  Constantinople.  9.  Costumes  of  Greek  Catholic 
Monk  and  Armenian  priest;  also  habits  of  Dominican,;  Benedictine  and 
Ccpuchin  monks.  10.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church;  priests'  vestments; 
Catholic  Altar  from  Roman  Church  at  Hildesheim;  Chalice,  Paten,  etc. 
11-15.  Judaism:  Five-armed  candlestick;  Hanukah  lamp  used  at  Feast 
of  the  Dedication;  Veil  of  the  Holy  Ark;  Misrah  or  panel  of  embroidered 
silk   with  figures   of   Abraham   and   Isaac. 

North  East  Range:   Ethnology,  continued: 

Central  Cases  (W.  to  E.)  :  I.  (W./Wall  Case)  Tribes 
of  the  Philippines;  Head-gear  from  various  localities,  made 
from   straw,    tortoise   shell,    fur   and    embroidery ;    2.    Family 


55  > 


3    O 


S  a 


ETHNOLOGY    EXHIBITS  299 

Group  of  the  Samoan  Islands.  Six  figures  represent: 
•bark  cloth  with  crude  stenciling,  etc.;  3.  Family  Group  of 
Dyaks  Borneo,  on  porch  of  communal  house ;  4.  Family  Group 
of  Filipinos.  The  group  represents  the  several  processes  con- 
nected with  the  making  of  coth,  the  ginning  of  cotton,  spin- 
ning with  primitive  wheel,  and  the  weaving  of  the  cloth  ;  5. 
Philippine  Islands:  Moro  mental  work,  hetel  boxes,  lime  cups, 
trays,  bowls  and  other  appliances  connected  with  the  use  of 
the  narcotc  betel;  6.  Family  Group  of  the  Bontac  Igorets 
(Phillipine  Islands),  five  figures  all  engaged  in  domestic  occu- 
pations; 7.  Family  Group  of  the  Negritos  (Philippine  Islands), 
showing  their  primitive  method  of  making  fire,  pounding  rice 
and  cooking;  8.  British  East  Africa;  The  Chagga :  vessels  of 
wood,  iron  implements,  beaded  leather  aprons,  ornaments  of 
brass,  horn  and  ivory;  9.  Tribes  of  British  and  Portuguese 
South  African;  Zulu  and  Kaffirs:  wooden  drums,  pottery, 
pipes,  battle  axes,  ornaments ;  10.  Congo  Free  State ;  the 
Kassai  and  other  tribes  basketry,  knives,  paddles,  pipes,  etc. ; 
11.  Congo  Free  State,  continued:  drums,  masks,  figurnes, 
carved  ivory,  ceremona  knives  and  axes ;  12.  Zulu-Kaffir 
Group,  showing  section  of  house :  woman  cooking  mush, 
another  ladling  out  beer,  another  carrying  water,  and  man 
playng  the  marimba. 

South  Wall :  As  in  the  case  of  the  Northwest  Range, 
the  S.  side  has  an  aisle  divided  from  the  main  hall  by  a 
row  of  columns,  and  the  cases  containing  exhibits  are 
arranged  in  groups   forming  a   series   of  alcoves. 

Alcove  1:  Tribes  of  the  Pacific:  War  spears,  daggers,  shark- 
teeth  swords,  armour  of  knotted  cocoanut  fibre;  Tribes  of  British  India: 
Nicobar  Islanders:  baskets,  cocoanut  vessels,  wooden  carvings,  bowls, 
dishes,  etc.;  Tribes  ,of  Africa:  The  Sudanese;  examples  of  the  finest 
leather  work  found  among  uncivilized  peoples' — pouches,  knife  cases,  etc.; 
The  Abyssinians:  amulets,  bracelets,  baskets,  shields,  weapons,  etc.; 
Andaman  Islanders:  spears,  bows  and  arrows,  necklaces,  bracelets,  nets, 
baskets  and  belts;  Tribes  of  Papua:  War  spears,  showing  extraordinary 
ingenuity  in  manufacture;  Model  of  Papuan  man,  by  Theodore  Mills; 
Model  of  Bulu  man,  by  Henry  J.  Ellicott.  Alcove  2:  Tribes  of  the 
Pacific,  continued:  War  clubs  of  Samoa,  Tonga  and  Fiji,  made  chiefly 
of  Polynesian  iron  wood;  Tribes  of  Liberia,  W.  Africa:  The  Mandingoes; 
examples  of  the  excellent  textile  work.  Model  of  Wolof  man  (W. 
Sundan);  Social  and  domestic  arts  of  the  Congo  Tribes;  The  Pacific 
Islanders:  The  Tapa  Makers  Art;  tapa  board  and)  log,  grooved  mallet 
and  marking  pens;  also  specimens  erf  tapa  cloth;  Arts  of  New  Guinea 
Tribes,  including  carved  wooden  utensils  and  ornaments,  baskets  with  the 
intricate  "mad  weave,"  canoe  prow  ornaments,  etc.;  Model  of  Wachaga 
man  (German  E.  Africa),  Alcove  3.  Tribes  of  Polynesia  and  Melanesia: 
Costumes,  tools  and  utensils;  fans  and  personal  ornaments,  mostly  from 
Fiji  Islands;  Costumes,  Jewelry  and  decorative  art,  chiefly  from  New 
Guinea;  also  wood  carving  from  the  Solomon  Islands;  The  Wood  Carvers' 


300  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Art,  including  ceremonial  adzes,  clubs,  paddles  and  stilts  decorated  in 
the  style  of  tapa  cloth.  Social  life  of  the  Hawaiians;  Note  especially 
paraphernalia  of  the  Hula  dance;  Stone  money  of  Yap.  Alcove  4. 
The  Engano  Islands:  Girdles  and  bead  skirts,  baskets  and  hats;  The 
W.  L.  Abbott  Collection  from  Southern  Malaysia:  Household  Gods, 
shrine  images  and  other  religious  objects;  Samoan  plaited  mat  robes; 
textiles  of  New  Zealanders;  Tribes  of  the  Eastern  Pacific:  War  and 
ceremonial  clubs;  Social  and  domestic  arts  of  the  Nias  Islanders;  Mis- 
cellaneous collection  of  utensils)  and  ornaments  from  Solomon,  Marshall 
and  Caroline  Islands.  Alcove  5.  The  Dyaks  of  Borneo:  Costumes, 
kilts,  sarongs  and  girdles;  household  utensils,  wedding  mat;  Dyak 
musical  instruments:  Dr.  W.  L.  Abbott  Collection:  Hawaiian  feather 
work:  Feather  cape  made  of  rare  bird  feathers  (vivid  reds  and  yellows) 
woven  with  hemp  background;  Lais,  or  feather  hair  ornament;  also 
ceremonial  feather  staff;  Arts  of  the  Easter  Islands.  Headdresses  of 
feathers,  staffs  paddles  and  stone  implements;  Dyak  spears,  blowguns 
and  shields;  Dyak  basketry;  Native  Arts  and  Industries  of  Southeast 
Africa;  sandals,  war  horns,  swords,  carved  ivory,  etc.  Alcove  6. 
Tribes  of  the  Philippines:  Offensive  and  defensive  weapons  of 
Mindanao;  General  F.  D.  Grant:  Collection  from  Samar  Island 
(Philippines)  :  Cutting  weapons  of  various  types,  arrows  for  war  and 
hunting  palmwood.  bows,  scourges  for  punishing  prisoners;  Tribes  of 
East  Indies:  Weapons  of  the  Nias,  Engano,  Pagi  and  Simalur  Islands; 
note  especially  Shelter  shields  from  Engano  Islands;  Philippine  textiles 
from  various  localities:  Igorot  blankets;  Moro  print;  Palm  spathe  texture; 
Bnri  palm  cloth;  also  Arts  of  the  Bagobo  Tribe  of  Southern  Mindanao: 
Beaded  hemp  jacket,  woman's  beaded  belt;  bolo  with  beaded  sheath; 
spears  and  ornaments;  Basketry  of  Luzon,  Mindanao,  and  other  Phil- 
ippine Islands;  Dwelling  Group,  showing  Zulu  village.  Alcove  7. 
Philippines,  continued:  Pottery  of  the  Tagals  and  other  groups  ot 
Luzon;  Land  and  water  transportation;  models  of  sleds  and  carts, 
canoes,  freight  and  passenger  boats;  Tools  and  utensils  of  New  Guinea; 
also  Dwelling  Group  of  the  Dyaks;  Village  Group  of  the  Early 
Hawaiians;  Basketry  of  the  African  Tribes:  note  the  fine  checker  weaving 
confined  to  Madagascar,  where  it  was  introduced  by  Malay  colonists 
at  an  early  period;  Basketry  of  Oceanic  Peoples:  Dwelling  Group  of 
Samoans  (Polynesians)  of  the  highest  type) ;  houses  of  elaborate  frame- 
work tied  together  with  cocoa  fibre  and  thatched  with  palm  leaves. 

North  Wall  Cases  (W.  to  E.)  :  Model  of  Dyak  man, 
by  Theodore  Mills;  2.  Moros  of  Mindanao ,  a  Mohammedan 
tribes,  excelling  in  brass  and  iron  work,  weaving  and  house 
building.  Case  contains  armor  hairnets,  shields,  swords,  lamps 
and  bowls ;  also  inlaid  Kris,  Datto's  mantle,  Datto's  Buyo  set, 
etc.;  3.  Social  Life  of  the  Igorot  (living  in  the  mountains  of 
Luzon  and  in  grade  of  culture  half-way  between  the  Negrito 
and  civilized  tribes)  :  Case  contains  model  of  Igorot  house 
and  granery;  domestic  utensils,  baskets  for  carrying  ore, 
and  storing  food ;  fire-pistol  for  lighting  fire,  weapons  and 
shields,  traps  and  nooses  for  game.  4.  Dyaks  of  Borneo: 
Drums,  grinding  dishes,  cocoanut  shredders,  rice  sieve,  water 
gourds,  quivers  for  blowgun  darts,  betel  boxes  {W.  L.  Abbott 
Collecton).  5.  Maiori  Man  (New  Zealand),  modeled  by 
Henry  J.  Ellicott.  6.  The  Fijians,  noted  for  skill  in  work- 
ing wood :   Case  contains  carved  dishes,  forks,  spatulas,  etc. ; 


ETHNOLOGY  EXHIBITS  301 

also   pottery   of   various    shapes,   glazed   with    resin.     7.   Arts 
of  the  Samoans:     Fine  mats,    fans,   and   baskets;    tapa  cloth 
with   fish    designs,    tapa    skirt,    cocoa    cups    and    Kava   ibowls. 
The  Samoans   are  skilled   in   making  mats,   baskets   and   fans 
from  the  pandanus  and  palm-leaf;  their  mats  are  of  exquisite 
fineness,   trimmed   with    red   parrot   feathers,    and   are    valued 
as  heirlooms;  baskets  woven  in  checker  designs  of  black  and 
natural  colors.     The  exhibits   include  a  Kava  bowl  presented 
to  President  Cleveland  by  Malietoa,  King  of  Samoa.    8.   The 
Hazvaiians:    Excellent  examples  of  stonework,   including  poi 
pounders,   adze   blades,  net  weights,   lamps,   divination   stones, 
etc.;  9.  Arts  of  the  Fijians:   {Collection  of  Wilkes  Exploring 
Expedtion    of    1838-42).      10.    The    Papuans:      Characteristic 
material  culture  rich  in  objects  pertaining  to  a  low-grade  of 
social  life,  spears,  shields  and  daggers  of  bone  and  of  obsidian, 
bone   spatulas,   nose-flutes,    baskets   and    fetiches.      11.  Models 
of  a  Somali  Man  (/E.  Africa)  and  a  Bambara  an  (Sudanese), 
from  the  Trocadero  Museum,  Paris,  modeled  by  M.  Herbert. 
12.  Tribes  of  Oceania:  Specimens  typical  of  the  Oceanic  cul- 
ture, in  which  the  knowledge  of   iron  Is  lacking.     Tribes  of 
Australia    (among   the   most   primitive    of    mankind)  :    Spear 
throwers,    boomerangs,    clubs,    stone    axes,    ornamented    fur 
robes,    message   stick,    pair    of    shoes    believed    to   render   the 
wearer  invisible;  also  Austrian  Man  modeled  by  Theodore  A. 
Mills.     14.  Africa.     Collection  of  George  W.  Ellis,  Jr.:     In- 
cludes  baskets,    musical   instruments,   beaded    aprons,    wooden 
spoons,  leather  work,  words  and  scabbards   (from  Vai,  Gala, 
Mandingo,  etc.,  in  Liberia). 

The  Herbert  Ward  African  Collection,  the  gift  of  the 
sculptor's  widow,  Mrs.  Sarita  Sanford  Ward,  now  occupies 
the  Northeast  corner  of  the  main  floor  of  the  Museum,  which 
has  been  railed  off  from  the  rest  of  the  Northeast  Range, 
forming  a  separate  pavilion.  It  comprises  some  2600  objects 
of  native  industry,  illustrative  of  the  Ethnology  of  primitive 
Africa,  together  with  the  bronze  statues  representing  Herbert 
Ward's  life  work  as  a  sculptor.  The  collection  was  installed 
under  the  personall  supervision  of  Mrs.  Ward,  and  opened  to 
the  public  March   1,   1922. 

Herbert  Ward  was  born  in  England  in  1863.  At  the  age  of  15  he 
set  out  on  travels  which  took  him  through  many  unexplored  lands.  At 
21  he  began  his  work  in  Africa.  While  in  the  Congo,  im  the  employ 
of  the  Belgian  Government,  he  rendered  important  aid  to  Stanley  in 
his  explorations.  iFor  more  than  5  years.  Mr.  Ward  lived  among  the 
natives  of  Central  Africa,  during  which  time  he  conceived  the  idea  of 
preserving  an  epitome  of  the  primitive  native  life  as  an  index  to  the 
primitive  life  of  all  men.  The  records  which  he  made  on  the  spot  were 
the    basis    of    his    subsequent    famous    sculptures.       Mr.    Ward's    desire 


302  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

that  his  collections  should  be  given  to  the  Smithsonian  was  due  partly 
to  the  fact  that  the  founder  of  the  Institution  was  also  an  Englishman 
and  a  wanderer  like  himself,  but  more  especially  because  he  realized 
that  the  largest  body  of  the  negro  race  that  has  attained  civilization  was 
here   in   America. 

The  Ethnological  Collection  is  arranged  partly  in  a 
series  of  cases  extending  around  three  sides  of  the  pavilion, 
and  partly  in  huge  groups  upon  the  walls  above  the  cases,  in 
which  countless  strange  and  fantastic  knives,  spears  and  javelins 
form  vast  metallic  sunbursts.  The  cases,  beginning  at  the 
N.  Wall  and  proceeding  from  W.  to  E.,  contain  the  following 
exhibits  : 

I.  Instruments  of  music,  notably  great  war  horns,  worked 
from  elephants'  tusks,  reduced  by  scraping  to  the  thickness 
of  a  gourd ;  drums  of  wood,  xylophones  with  gourd  resona- 
tors, and  having  from  12  to  15  tongues,  rattles,  bells  of  wood 
and  of  iron,  and  rude  harps.  2.  Works  in  iron,  clay  and 
other  substances;  a  variety  of  ivory  objects  ranging  from 
fetches  to  ornaments,  bracelets  and  carved  pipes.  3.  Natural 
History  Collection :  An  articulated  skeleton  of  a  gorilla,  skulls 
of  monkeys ;  teeth,  horns  and  tusks  of  various  mammals. 
4.  Native  fetiches  and  wood  carvings ;  stools,  head-rests  and 
domestic  utensils.  Above  on  wall  gigantic  head  of  a  bull 
elephant.  5.  Knives  and  other  small  weapons ;  poisoned 
arrows  of  the  African  Dwarf  Tribes.  6.  Costumes  and 
adornments :  textiles  native  to  the  Congo,  the  tie-and-dye 
fabrics  and  tufted  fabrics ;  primitive  loom  for  raffia  cloth ; 
basketry  and  neck  ornaments.  7.  Swords  and  large  cutting 
weapons :  the  variation  from  the  primitive  leaf  form  of  blades 
indicates  the  talent  of  the  smiths  who  forged  with  rude  imple- 
ments. 

The  ^Collection  of  Bronzes.  The  more  important 
sculptures  occupy  the  central  space  of  the  pavilion.  The 
visitor  approaching  from  W.  notes  first,  on  L.,  The  Fugitives 
(a  mother,  baby  and  small  child  fleeing  from  slave  hunters). 
On  R.  The  Charm  Doctor  (representing  a  sorcerer  perform- 
ing an  incantation).  Further  R.  is  *A'  Congo  Artist  (this 
figure  tracing  a  picture  on  the  sand  typifies  the  rude  beginning 
of  art).  In  center  of  pavilion  is  *The  Chief  of  the  Tribe 
(symbolic  of  the  weight  of  primitive  government).  Near 
E.  Wall,  from  L.  to  R.,  are :  The  Idol  Maker  (native  carving 
a  wooden  fetish);  Defiance;  The  Fire  Maker;  *Distress 
(Mr.  Ward's  last  work  and  in  the  opinion  of  critics  his  great- 
est) ;  The  Forest  Lovers  (exhibited  in  Paris  under  title  "Les 
Bantus,"  the  Bantu  stock  having  furnished  most  of  the  slaves 
brought    to    America).      Behind    The    Charm    Doctor    is    The 


ZOOLOGICAL    EXHIBITS  303 

Wood  Carrier  (modeled  from  a  Senegal  girl).  Along  the 
wall  between  the  cases  are  some  smaller  sculptures :  Head 
of  Gorilla  (only  attempt  at  animal  sculpture);  Congo  Boy; 
Sleeping  Africa;  Fragment  (headless,  armless  female 
figure)  ;  Head  of  Bakongo  Girl;  Head  of  Aruimi  Man  (type 
of  Congo  cannibal),  Mr.  Ward's  first  work;  Crouching 
Woman.  At  N.  W.  cor.  of  pavilion  is  a  portrait  bust  of 
Herbert  Ward,  by  Sir  William  Goscombe  John. 

g.    Zoological  Exhibits 

Main  Floor — Continued:     West  Wing  and  Range:     Zo- 
ology.   Mammals  and  Birds. 

Central  Hall,  Mammals  of  North  America:  The  spec- 
cial  features  of  this  collection  are  some  admirable  Habitat 
Groups,  and  unusually  complete  exhibits  of  species  and  sub- 
species of  certain  families,  especially  among  the  smaller 
fur-bearing  mammals  of  commercial  value.  The  central  cases 
(the  larger  single,  the  smaller  in  pairs)  are,  from  E.  to  W., 
as  follows:  2.  (R.)  Sea  Otter,  Latax  lutris  {Linn.) ;  3.  (L.) 
Mink,  Marten,  Weasel,  Ferret,  Fisher,  etc.,  20  species;  4.  Paci- 
fic Walrus,  Odobenus  divcrgens  (IlUg.)  ;  5.  North  American 
Eared  Seals,  or  Sea-bears  (Fam.  Otariidae)  :  Alaskan  Fur 
Seal,  Callotaria  alascanus  (Jordan  and  Clark)  ;  California 
Sea-tlion,  Zalophus  calif  ornianus  (Lesson)  ;  *Stellar's  Sea- 
lion.  Eumetopias  stelleri  (Lesson):  6.  *Habitat  Group: 
American  Bison,  collected  and  mounted  by  William  T.  Horna- 
day  in  1886-87.  Note  typical  alkaline  water-hole  of  Great 
Northern  Range;  also  vegetation  including  the  low  Buffalo 
Grass,  Bonteloua;  Broom  Sage,  Andropogon,  and  Prickly 
Pear,  Opuntia;  7.  *Habitat  Group  :  Wapiti  or  "Elk,"  Cervus 
canadensis  (Erxleben),  Snow  scene:  the  specimens  are  from 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park;  8.  *Haibitat  Group.  Eastern 
Moose,  Alces  americanus  (Jardine)  ;  Cases  9.  (R.)  and  10. 
(L.)  Fam.  Scmridac,  Squirrels  and  Chipmunks  (55  varieties)  ; 
Cases  11.  (R-)  and  12  (L.),  Fam.  Leporidae,  or  Hares  and 
Fam.  Ochotonidae,  or  Pikas  (22  species)  ;  13.  (R)  Pocket 
Gophers,  Kangaroo  Rats,  Prairie  Dogs,  Woodchuck,  etc.  (32 
specie's)  ;  14.  (L.)  Fam.  Muridae,  'Rlats,  Mice,  Lemmings,  Musk- 
rats,  etc.  (35  species)  ;  15.  (R-)  Fam.  Hystricidae  or  Porcu- 
pines ;  Fam.  Castoridae  or  Beavers ;  Fam.  Aplodontiidae  or  Se- 
tvcllels;  16.  (L.)  Fam.  Talpidae  or  Moles  (7  species)  ;  Fam. 
Sorieid'ae  or  Shrews  (9  species)  ;  Fam.  Vespertilionidae  or  Bats 
(9  species);  17.  South  American  Mammals:  Vicunya,  Lama 
vicugna     (Molina)  ;     Savanna     Deer,     Odocoileus     gymnotis 


304  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

(Weigmanri)  ;    also    14   species   of    S.    Amer.     Monkeys    and 
2  Sloths. 

Wall  Cases.  A  tour  of  these  may  now  conveniently 
be  made,  beginning  on  the  north  wall,  W.  end,  and  proceed- 
ing eastward:  1.  Mammals  of  the  Nearctic  Region:  Musk- 
ox,  Ovibos  moschatus  (Zimmermann)  ;  Alaskan  White  Sheep, 
Ovis  dalli  (Nelson)  ;  White-lipped  peccary,  Tayassu  pecari 
(Fischer)  t  etc.;  2.  Habitat  Group:  Prong-horn.  Anii- 
locapra  umericana  (Ord),  seven  specimens;  3.  Habitat 
Group :  Texan  (Nine-handed  Armadillo,  Dasypus  novemcinc- 
tas  (Linn.);  4.  Habitat  Group:  Rocky  Mountain  Sheep  or 
Bighorn,  Ovis  canadensis  (Sham);  5.  Habitat  Group; 
American  Badger,  Taxidea  taxus  (Schreber)  ;  6.  Habitat 
Group  :  Musk-ox,  Ovibos  moschatus  (Zimmermann)  ;  7.  *North 
American  iSeals  and  Manatees :  a.  Florida  Manatee,  Triche- 
chus  latirostris  (Harlan);  b.  Harp  Seal.  Phoca  groenlandica 
(Erxleben)  ;  c.  Harbor  Seal,  Phoca  vitulina  (Linn.)  ;  d.  Rib- 
bon Seal,  Phoca  fasciata  (Zimmermann)  ;  e.  Ringed  Seal, 
Phoca  hispida  (Schreber)  f.  Bearded  Seal,  Erignathus  bar- 
batus  (Erxleben)  ;  g.  Caribbean  >Seal,  Monachus  tropicalis 
(Gray)  ;  h.  California  Elephant  Seal,  Mirounga  angustirostris 
(Gill);   i.    Hooded   Seal,    Cystophora    cristata     (Erxleben). 

Wall  Cases  continued.  East  Wall:  1.  North  American 
Cats,  Skunks,  Raccoon  and  their  Allies :  2.  North  America 
Wild  Dogs,  Foxes  and  Wolves. 

South  Wall:  1.  Habitat  Group:  iPrairie  Wolf,  Coyote; 
male,  female  and  young,  designed  by  William  T.  Hornaday; 
2.  North  American  Bears :  a.  Polar  Bear,  Thalarctos 
maritmus  (Phipps)  ;  b.  Kodiak  Bear,  Ursus  middendorfi 
(Merr'iam)  ;  c.  Grizzly  Bear,  Ursus  horribilis  (Ord)  ; 
d.  Barren  Ground  Bear,  Ursus  richardsoni  (Swains on)  ;  Black 
Bear,  U.  americanus  (Pallas)  ;  *Glacier  Bear,  U.  emmonsi 
(Dall),  a  rare  species;  3.  Habitat  Group:  Barren  Ground 
Caribou,  Rangifer  granti  (Allen)  ;  4.  Habitat  Group : 
Prairie  Dogs,  designed  by  William  T.  Hornaday;  5.  Habi- 
tat Group :  Rocky  Mountain  Goat,  Oreamnos  americanus 
(Blainville),  collected  and  presented  by  George  Bird  Grinnell; 
6.  Habitat  Group :  Virginia  Opossum,  Didelphis  virginiana 
(Kerr),  designed  by  William  T.  Hornaday;  7.  Habitat 
Group :  Newfoundland  Caribou,  Rangifer  terraenovae 
(Bangs)  ;  8.  Mammals  of  the  Nearctic  Region :  a.  Moun- 
tain Caribou,  Rangifer  montanus  (Set on  Thompson)  ;  b- 
Alaskan  Moose,  Alces  gigas  (Miller)  ;  c.  Sonoran  Deer, 
Odocoileus  cones!  (Cones  and  Yarrow)  ;  d.  Olympic  Elk,  Cer- 
vus  roosevelti   (Merriam). 


ZOOLOGICAL    EXHIBITS  305 

West  Wall:  Central  and  South  American  Mammals: 
1.  Fam.  Felidae:  Mexican  Jaguar,  Felis  hemandesii  (Gray)  ; 
Mitis  Cat,  Felis  mitis  (CuiAer)  ;  Ocelot,  F.  pardalis  (Gray); 
Paraguay  Jaguar,  F.  paraguensis  (Hollister)  ;  Puma,  F.  con- 
color  (Linn.) ;  Jaguarondi,  F.  jaguarondi  (Fischer)  ;  Wea- 
sels, Otters,  Kinkajous,  etc.;  2.  S.  Amer.  Mammals  continued: 
Capybara,  Hydrochaerus  (Erxleben) ;  Coypti,  Myocastor  coy- 
pus  (Molina);  Venezuela  Rice-rat,  Oryzomys  flamcans 
(Thomas);   Giant  Armadillo,   Priodontes  gigas.    (Cuvier). 

West  Wing,  continued:  North  Aisle,  Chiefly  European 
Mammals  and  Birds:  1.  *Habitat  Group,  Polar  Bears,  col- 
lected in  Barents  Sea,  by  party  on  board  the  S.  S.  Frithjof, 
Second  Relief  Ship  to  the  Ziegler  Polar  Expedition;  2. 
Kashmir  iStag,  Cervus  cashmerianus  (Falconer)  ;  European 
Red  Deer,  Cervus  elaphus  (Linn.)  ;  Norway  Elk,  Alces  alces 
(Linn.)  ;  Musk  Deer,  Moschus  moschijerus  (Linn.)  ;  Roe 
Deer,  Capreolus  capreolm  (Linn.)  ;  Pere  David  Deer, 
Elaphurus  damdianus  (Milne-Edwards),  from  China,  but 
extinct  in  wild  state;  Fallow  Deer,  Dama  dama  (Linn.); 
3.  European  Bison,  Bison  bonasus  (Linn.)  ;  Chamois,  Dorcas 
Gazelle,  etc. ;  Takin,,  Budorcas  taxicolor  (Hodgson)  ; 
Japanese  Serow,  Nemorrhaedus  crispus  (Temminck) ;  Thar. 
Alpine  Ibex,  etc. ;  4.  Pamir  Sheep,  Kamschatka  Sheep,  Great 
Thibetan  Sheep  or  Argali,  European  Mouflon  or  Wild  'Sheep, 
Markhor,  African  Sheep,  Aru,  Urial  or  Sha  and  Chinese  Wild 
Boar. 

The  cases  W.  of  this  point  contain  birds,  which  had  best 
be  taken  in  later,  in  connection  with  the  W.  Range.  Re- 
turning E.  to  starting  point,  we  pass  on  S.  Wall  three  cases : 
Case  1.  European  Badger,  Japanese  Badger,  Japanese  Otter, 
Kashmir  Fox,  Genet,  Mongoose,  etc. ;  Case  2.  Weasels,  Mar- 
tens, Moles,  Shrews,  Polecats,  Hedgehogs  and  'Syrian  Coney ; 
Case  3.  Various  kinds  of  European  Dormice,  Squirrels,  Red 
Marmot,  Jerboa,  Rabbits,  Hares,  Lemmings,  Hamsters  and 
Voles.  Note  especially  the  exhibit  of  rats  which  carry  the 
Bubonic  Plague. 

The  visitor  may  now  cross  through  the  Central  Hall  to 
the  E~.  end  of  the  South  Aisle,  containing  chiefly  South  Asiatic 
Mammals:  1.  *Habitat  Group  :  Orang-utan,  Pongo  pygmaeus 
(Hoppins)  ;  represents  a  fight  between  two  old  males  and  con- 
sequent alarm  of  females  and  young;  mounted  by  William  T. 
Hornaday ;  2.  Habitat  Group :  Proboscis  Monkey,  Nasalis 
la>-vatus  (Wurmb),  mounted  by  C.  F.  Adams:  3.  Habitat 
Group:  Gibbon,  Hylobatcs  leuciscus  (Mutter  and  Schlcgel), 
mounted  by  C.  E.  Adams;  4.    Collection  of  Asiatic  Monkeys, 


306  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

14  species;  Indian  Tapir,  Long-nosed  Boar,  Babirussa,  Black 
Buck,  etc. ;  5.  Zebu,  Bos  indicus  (Linn.)  ;  Yak,  Poephagus  grun- 
niens  (Linn.)  ;  6.  Sambar,  Rusa  unicolor  (Kerr),  largest  deer 
in  India;  Bornean  Barking  Deer,  Axis  Deer,  Indian  Muntjac, 
etc.;  Asiatic  Carnivora :  Tiger,  Marbled  Cat,  Leopard,  Bintu- 
^rong,  Banded  Civet,  etc.;  7.  Dugong,  Halicore  dugong  (Erx- 
Uben).,  gift  of  Linnean  Society  of  New  South  Wales;  also 
Panda,  AUwrus  fulgens  (F.  Cuvier)  ;  badgers,  bats,  shrews, 
etc.;  Australian  Mammals;  Kangaroos,  12  species,  ranging  from 
•the  Great  Gray  Kangaroo,  Macropus  giganteus  to  the  Common 
Rat  Kangaroo,  Potorous  tridactylus ;  8.  South  [Pacific,  Australia 
^and  Nezv  Guinea;  Diingo  Dog,  Flying  Phalanger,  Common 
Wombat,  Sea  Elephant,  etc.;  African  Mammals:  Wild  Hog  of 
Africa;  Gorilla  and  other  African  Apes;  African  Monkeys,  14 
species;  10.  African  Monkeys  continued;  15  species;  Hysenas 
and  Jackals;  11.  Carnivora  of  Africa;  Lion,  Leopard,  Chetah, 
'etc. ;  African  Antelopes. 

North  Wall  Cases:  (W.  to  E.)  1.  Mammals  of  the 
'Oriental  Region:  Monkeys,  5  exhibits;  2.  Squirrels,  6 
exhibits;  3.  Bats,  Flying  Squirrels,  Porcupines,  Crateromys, 
Rats  and  Mice,  21  exhibits;  4,  Mammals  of  Australia 
Kind  Tasmania;  Common  Echidna,  Tachyglossus  aculeatus 
(Shaw)  ;  Duckbill,  Ornithorhynchus  anat\y\us  (Shaw)  ;  Tas- 
manian  Marsupial  Wolf,  Thylacynus  cynocephalus  (Harris)  ; 
Dasyures,  Anteaters,  Tasmanian  Devil,  Sarcophilus  ursinus 
(Harris)  ;  5.  Ethiopmn  Region  Temminck's  Pangolin,  Manis 
temminckii  (Smuts),  Aard  Vark,  Orycteropus  capensis 
(Gmelin),  etc.;  6.  Ethiopian  Region  continued:  Numerous 
species  of  Mouse,  Dormouse,  Squirrel,  Cape  Jumping  Hare, 
etc.;  7.  Ethiopian  Region  concluded:  Shrew,  Ichneumon, 
Mongoose,  Ratel,  Falanaka,  etc. 

Southwest  Pavilion:  Zoology  continued:  Mammals 
•of  Africa.  This  collection  includes  important  exhibits  se- 
cured by  the  Smithsonian  African  Expedition  under  Col. 
Theodore  Roosevelt. 

Case  1.  (S.  W.  cor.,  opposite  S.  Aisle)  :  *Habitat  Group, 
three  adult  lions  and  two  cubs,  drinking  from  water-hole 
dug  by  Zebras  (Roosevelt  Expedition,  British  West  Africa)  ; 
mounted  by  George  B.  Turner;  Case  2.  African  Antelopes 
(partly  Roosevelt  Expedition,  partly  gift  of  Dr.  W.  L.  Ab- 
bott and  others).  Bush  Duiker,  CefiMophus  grimmia  (Shaw)  ; 
Maxwell's  Duiker,  Cephalophus.  m&xwelli  (H.  Smith) ;  Bla©^ 
crowned  antelope  C.  nigrifro^  {Gray);  Sassaby,  DamftH.^us 


ZOOLOGICAL  EXHIBITS  307 

lunaius  (Burchell)  ;  Topi,  DamaUscus  jimcla  (Matschie)  ; 
Wildebeest,  Connochaetes  gnu  (Zimm.)  ;  Brindled  Gnu,  Conno- 
chaetes  taurina  (Burchell)  ;  Bontebok,  D.  pygargus  (Pallas)  ; 
Coke's  Hartebeest,  Alcclaphus  cokci  (Giinther) ;  Case  3. 
Equine  Antelope,  Hippotragus  cq  it  in  us  (Gcoffroy)  ;  Sable  An- 
telope, Hippotragus  niger  (Harris)  ;  Case  4.  (West  Wall) 
Habitat  Group :  Horsetailed  Monkey,  Colobus  caudatus 
(Thomas),  group  of  five  collected  by  Dr.  W.  L.  Abbott  in  juni- 
per forests  at  base  of  Mt.  Kilimanjaro;  Case  5.  (Central  Ex- 
hibit) Habitat  Group:  Coke's  Hartebeest  (Roosevelt  Expedi- 
tion) ;  mounted  by  James  L.  Clark;  Case  6.  ^Habitat  Group: 
Square-lipped  Rhinoceros,  Ccratothcrium  simum  cottoni  (Ly- 
dekker)  ;  also  Rhinoceros  bird,  Buphagus  erythrorhynchus,  the 
inseparable  companion  of  the  rhinoceros  (Roosevelt  Exped.)  ; 
mounted  by  James  L.  Clark;  Case  7.  (East  Wall)  Antelopes: 
Defassa  Waterbuck,  Kobtis  dcifassa  nzoiae  (Matschie)  ;  Water-' 
buck,  Kobus  cllipsiprymmis  (Ogilby)  ;  Masailand  Klipspring- 
er,  Oreotragus  oreotragus  schilling  si  (Neumann)  ;  Nile  Lech- 
wi,  Onotragus  megaceros  (Fitzinger)  ;  Kirk's  Pigmy  Antelope, 
Madoqua  kirkii  (Giinther)  ;  Cape  Oribi,  Ourebia  ourebi 
(Zimm.)  ;  Case  8.  (E.  Wall  continued)  Antelopes:  Gerenuk, 
LJthocranius  wallefi  (Brooke),  Thompson's  Gazelle,  Gaaclla 
thorn psoni  (Giinther);  Grant's  Gazelle,  Gazella  granti. 
(Brooke)  ;  ,  Pallah  Antelope,  Acpyceros  melampus  (Lichtcn- 
stein)  ;  Pencil-eared  Gemsbok,  Oryx  eallotis  (Thomas)  ; 
Case  9.  (Center  Exhibit)  *Hahdtat  Group:  East  African 
Buffalo,  Synceros  caffer  radcliffei  (Thomas) ,  accompanied 
by  the  Cow-'heron,  Bubulcus  lucidus,  that  feeds  upon 
grasshoppers,  etc.,  aroused  by  the  passing  oi  the 
Buffalo  (Roolsevelt  Expedition)  ;  mounted  by  G.  B.  Turner; 
Case  10.  Two-Horned  Rhinoceros,  Rhinoceros  bicomis 
(Linn.)  ;  West  African  Buffalo ;  African  Elephant,  "Mungo," 
gift  of  Adam  Forepaugh ;  Case  11.  Burchell's  Zebra,  Equus 
burchelli  (Gray)  ;  Case  12.  ('Central  Case  Exhibit)  Habitat 
Group:  Three  Grevy's  Zebras,  Equus  grevyi  (Oustaiet)  and 
two  East  African  Beisa,  Oryx  annectens  (Hollister)  ;  Case 
13.  (W.  Wall)  Equine  Antelope,  Hippotragus  equinus  (Geof- 
froy)  ;  Case  14.  (N.  Wall)  Uganda  Giraffe,  Giraffa  camci- 
opardalis  rotJischildi  (Lydekker) ;  *Okapi,  Okapia  johnstoni 
(Sclater),  a  rare  animal  related  to  the  Giraffe  and  known  to 
naturalists  only  since  1900;  Reticulated  Giraffe,  Giraffa  reticu- 
lata (de  Winton)  ;  Case  15.  Habitat  Group:  Ostriches  and. 
young,  Roosevelt  Expedition. 


308  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

West  Wing:  North  Aisle  concluded:  The  western  half 
of  this  aisle  is  occupied  by  part  ot  the  collection  of  Birds : 
but  since  it  is  crowded,  badly  lighted,  and  consists  mainly 
of  the  least  complete  and  least  interesting  portion  of  this 
sub-division,  little  time  need  be  spent  here.  There  are  two 
cases  to  a  row,  each  case  double-sided : 

Row  i.  Birds  of  Africa :  conspicuous  are  the  Kaffir 
Great-tailed  Whydah,  iBlue-bellied  Roller  and  Senegal  King- 
fisher; Row  2.  Many  species  of  South  African  Plantain- 
eaters  and  Hornbills ;  Row  3.  African  Eagles  and  Vultures ; 
Guinea  Fowl,  5  species;  (E.  side)  (Saddle-billed  Stork, 
Ephippiorhynchus  senegalensis  {Shaw)  ;  Marabou  Stork, 
Leptoptilos  crumeniferus  {Lesson)  ;  Kavirondo  Crane,  Balea- 
rica  gibbericeps  {Reichenow)  ;  Rosy  Pelican,  Pelecanus 
roseus  {Gmelin),  all  of  these  from  Roosevelt  Expedition; 
Rowis  4  and  5.  Birds  of  Asia,  Philippine  Islands,  Malacca, 
etc. ;  Row  6.  Asiatic  Eagles,  including  the  Monkey-eat- 
ing Eagle,  Pitihecophaga  jefferyi  {Grant)  ;  Jungle-fowl,  in- 
cluding the  Red  Jungle-fowl,  Gallus  gallus  {Linn),  ancestor 
of  the  domestic  species;  Javan  Jungle-fowl,  Gallus  varius 
{Shazv)  ;  Gray  Jungle-fowl,  Gallus  sonnerati  {Temminck), 
etc.;  also  (E.  side)  Pheasants,  Peacocks,  Adjutant  Bird,  Bit- 
terns, etc.;  Rows  7-iQ.  Birds  of  Europe.  The  eastern 
cases,  containing  mammals,  have  already  been  visited  (p.  305). 

On  the  S.  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  are  three  small  Habitat 
Groups:  1.  Argus  Pheasant,  Argusianus  argus  {Linn.); 
2.  Rhinoceros  Hornbill,  Buceros  rhinoceros  {Linn.),  show- 
ing curious  nest;  3.  ^Whale -headed  Stork,  Balaeniceps  rex 
(Roosevelt  Expedition). 

Western  Range:  Birds  continued:  The  collections  here 
exhibited  include  the  Birds  of  Australia  and  the  South  Pacific, 
and  the  Birds  of  North  and  South  America.  The  cases  in 
this  range  along  the  W.  wall  are  placed  transversely,  or  at 
right  angles  with  the  wall;  those  on  the  E.  side  are  grouped 
so  as  to  form  alcoves,  often  with  a  small  central  case  in  the 
alcove.  Since  the  birds  are  grouped  according  to  habitat, 
from  S.  to  N.,  the  visitor  will  find  it  more  convenient  to 
zigzag  back  and  forth  between  the  transverse  cases  and  the 
alcoves,  thus  covering  both  sides  of  the  range  simultane- 
ously. 

Entering  from  S.  W.  Pavillion,  we  find  on  L.,  a  small 
Habitat  Group,  the  *Kea  or  Mountain  Parrot,  Nestor  nota- 
bilis   {Gould). 

This  bird,  a  native  of  New  Zealand  is  naturally  vegetarian  in  diet; 
about    1870,    however,    when    sheepraising    was    extensively    introduced, 


ZOOLOGICAL  EXHIBITS  309 

many  sheep  were  found  dead,  with  gaping  wounds  torn  in  their  backs 
and  sides.  The  source  of  destruction  was  traced  to  these  parrots,  which 
had  acquired  an  unnatural  appetite  for  sheep  fat.  This  group  shows  two 
birds  at  their  abnormal   feast. 

2d  Habitat  Group,  *Lyre  Bird,  Menura  superba 
{Latham):  1st  Transverse  Case:  Birds  of  Paradise: 
*Empress  Augusta  Victoria's  Bird  of  Paradise ;  *Greater 
Bird  of  Paradise;  Meyer's  Promerops ;  Grand  Prome- 
rops,  etc. ;  2d  T.  Case ;  Paroquets,  Lorikeets,  Cocka- 
toos, Kingfishers,  and  other  birds  of  Australia,  New 
Guinea,  Tasmania,  Celebes,  etc. ;  In  central  aisle  are 
two  small  cases :  a.  Australian  Birds  concluded :  Fly- 
catchers, Robin-chats,  Fantails,  and  other  small  varieties ;  b. 
South  American  Birds :  vivid  hued  Caciques,  Orioles,  Trou- 
pials,  etc. ;  3rd,  4th  and  5th  T.  Cases :  South  America  con- 
tinued: Toucan,  26  species;  Aracari,  12  species;  Costa  Rican 
Quetzal ;  Resplendent  Trogon ;  Chachalaca,  Curassow,  etc. ;  Op- 
posite, 1st  Alcove;  Cassowary,  Ibis,  Wandering  Albatross, 
Herons,  Ducks,  etc. ;  Parrots,  70  species ;  Hawks,  43  species ; 
3d  Central  Aisle  Case :  South  American  Grackles  and 
Orioles ;  Habitat  Group,  *Hoatzin,  Opisthocomus  hoazin 
(Miitler)  ;  2d  Alcove :  Sun-grebes,  Penguins,  Rheas,  etc. ;  here 
also  begins  the  Collection  of  **North  American  Birds,  the 
most  extensive,  best  arranged,  and  most  fully  labeled  of  the 
Museum's  ornithological  exhibits  :  This  alcove  contains  many 
song-birds :  Buntings,  Cardinals ;  Tanagers,  Orioles,  Black- 
birds, Bobolinks,  etc. ;  6th  T.  Case :  Finches,  108  exhibits ; 
Sparrows,  108  exhibits ;  Swallows,  Wax-wings,  Wrens,  Mock- 
ing-birds, Thrushes,  Dippers,  Larks,  Wag-tails,  etc.,  172  ex- 
hibits; 3d  Alcove:  Warblers,  iShrikes,  etc.,  continued:  161 
exhibits ;  Habitat  Group :  Carolina  Parakeet,  Conuropsis 
carolinensis  (Linn.);  Auks,  Puffins,  Guillemots,  Auklets,  etc. ; 
**Great  Auk  and  Auk's  Egg,  Plautus  xmpennis,   (Linn,). 

This  bird  has  for  many  years  been  extinct  and  specimens 
of  either  bird  or  egg  constitute  one  of  the  great  rarities  of 
collections.  There  are  only  three  known  specimens  in  Amer- 
ica :  a.  at  Vassar  College,  Poughkeepsie ;  b.  at  the  Academy  of 
Natural  Sciences,  Philadelphia ;  c.  the  present  specimen,  in 
the  U.   S.  National  Museum. 

7th  T.  Case :  Flycatchers,  Phoebes,  Chickadees,  Magpies, 
Ravens.  Jays;  Owls,  56  exhibits.  8th  T.  Case:  Woodpeckers, 
Sapsuckers,  Kingfishers,  Swifts.  Humming-birds.  Whiopoor- 
wills,  Goatsuckers,  Cuckoos,  Flickers.  9th  T.  Case:  Hawks, 
Kites,  Falcons,  66  specimens ;  Eagles,  Vultures,  etc.,  32  speci- 
mens.    Opposite,  4th  Alcove :  Ptarmigans,  Sage  Grouse,  Bob- 


310  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

whites,  Quail;  Habitat  Groups;  Q.  Ruffed « Grouse ;  2.  Dusky 
Grouse.  5th  Alcove :  Plovers,  Lapwings,  Oyster-catchers, 
Sandpipers,  Snipe,  Curlews,  and  other  wading  birds ;  Grouse, 
Wild  Turkeys,  Frairiehens,  etc.  10th  T.  Case :  Doves, 
Pigeons,  Cranes,  Coots,  etc.  At  W.  end,  wall  case  containing 
♦Habitat  Group,   "An  Interrupted  Meal." 

This  group,  mounted  by  Frederic  A.  Lucas,  received  a 
diploma  of  honor  from  the  Society  of  American  Taxidermists, 
in  Boston.  It  shows  a  Red-tailed  Hawk,  Buteo  borealis,  at- 
tacked by  a  Goshawk,  Accipiter  atricapillus,  while  eating  a 
Ruffed  Grouse. 

nth  T.  Case:  Terns  and  Gulls,  75  exhibits.  Adjoining 
E.  end. :  *  Habitat  Group.  Passenger  Pigeons,  Ectopistes 
migratorius  Linn. 

In  Audubon's  time,  this  species  of  bird,  now  extinct,  ex- 
isted in  thousands  of  millions.  They  were  wantonly  killed  in 
prodigious  quantities,  for  food  or  for  sport,  but  also  for  feed- 
ing hogs.  The  last  surviving  specimen  died  in  captivity  in  the 
Cincinnati  Zoological  Garden,   Sept.  1,   1914. 

1 2th  T.  .  Case :  Herons,  Egrets,  Bitterns,  36  specimens. 
13th  T.  Case :  Geese,  Brants,  Spoonbills,  Ibises,  Eider  Ducks, 
Swans,  Mergansers,  etc.  At  E.  End.  Habitat  Group,  American 
Flamingo.  Phocnicopterus  ruber  (Linn.) .  14th  T.  Case  :  Loon, 
Grebe,  Petrel,  Fulmar,  Albatross.  Opposite,  6th  Alcove :  Teal, 
Widgeon,  Wood  Duck,  Mallard,  Booby,  Anhinga  or  Snake 
Bird,    Cormorant,    Man-o'-war    Bird,    Pelican. 

h.     Miscellaneous  Collections 

Second  Floor.  Rotunda  Gallery.  Here  is  placed  (1922) 
the  Hugo  Worch  Collection  of  Pianos.  It  comprises  112  ex- 
hibits, including  specimens  from  Europe,  Austria,  Italy, 
America,  etc.  Note  especially  the  Italian  Harpsichord,  1532. 
The  Upright  Piano  made  by  C.  F.  L.  Albrecht,  Phila.,  1820 
(one  of  the  first  Uprights  made  in  that  city)  ;  Upright  Piano 
made  by  Andrew  Stein,  Vienna,  1788  (the  oldest  and  rarest 
Upright  in  this  country)  ;  Upright  Piano  made  by  John  Os- 
borne, Boston,  1817  (the  most  primitive  American  Upright 
of  which  there  is  any  trace)  ;  Piano  made  by  John  Sellers, 
Phila.,  about  1775  (one  of  the  first  pianos  made  in  America). 

Second  Floor.  East  Wing.  South  Aisle:  Minerology 
continued: 


MISCELLANEOUS    COLLECTIONS  311 

Central  Cases :  Nos.  1  to  7  contain  the  *Isaac  Lea  Col- 
lection of  Gems  and  Precious  Stones. 

The  nucleus  of  this  collection  was  assembled  by  Dr.  Isaac  Lea, 
the  well-known  naturalist  of  Philadelphia.  In  1894  it  was  willed 
to  The  National  Museum  by  his  daughter,  Mrs.  Frances  Lea  Chamber- 
lain. Her  husband,  Dr.  L.  T.  Chamberlain,  who  was  Honorary  Asso- 
ciate in  Mineralogy  until  1913,  added  a  large  number  of  specimens, 
and  in  his  will  left  a  sum  of  money  the  income  of  which  is  to  be 
applied    to    the   preservation   and    increase    of   the   collection. 

Case  1.  Specimens  of  Corundum,  Rubies,  Topazes,  Sap- 
phires, etc. ;  Case  2.  Aquamarines,  Beryls,  Emeralds,  Zircons, 
Py ropes,  Tourmalines,  etc.;  Case  3.  Moonstone,  Amazonstone, 
Lapis  Lazuli,  Rhodonite,  Obsidian,  Malachite,  Amber,  etc. ; 
Case  4.  Amethyst,  Citrine  Quartz,  Rose  Quartz,  Smoky 
Quartz,  etc. ;  Case  5.  Rock  Crystal,  Opalescent  Quartz,  Aven- 
turine  Quartz,  Chrysophrase,  Cat's  eye,  Tiger-eye,  Jasper, 
Bloodstone,  etc. ;  Case  6.  Agate  and  Moss-Agate,  Onyx  and 
Cameos  of  Onyx,  Carnelian,  Sardonyx,  Chalcedony,  etc. ; 
Case  7.  Jade,  Opal,  Baroche  and  other  Pearls,  Shell  Cameos, 
Turquoises,  Variscite,   Coral,   etc. 

The  two  succeeding  cases  contain :  Case  8.  Many  varie- 
ties of  Gem  Opal,  imbedded  in  rocks ;  Case  9.  Gold  nug- 
gets, wire  gold,  leaf  gold,  crystallized  gold,  placer  gold,  native 
silver,  etc. 

North  Wall  Cases :  This  exhibit  consists  of  14  double 
cases,  containing  a  Systematic  Collection  of  minerals 
arranged  in  series  according  to  Dana's  "System  of  Mineral- 
ogy," 6th  ed.,  1892.  The  classification  follows:  1.  The  Chem- 
ical Composition.  2.  The  Crystallography  Relationships.  The 
specimens  in  the  several  cases  are  fully  labeled  and  explained. 

West  End  Wall :  Systematic  Collection,  continued.  Sup- 
plemental cases :  Exhibits  of  ,  minerals  showing  Physical 
Properties,  namely,  a.  Color;  b.  Lustre;  c.  Hardness;  d. 
Crystalization ;   e.    Structure,     f .  Radioactivity. 

South  Wall  Cases :  1.  Exhibit  illustrating  Native  Ele- 
ments. Only  17  of  the  chemical  elements,  so  far  identified, 
are  found  in  appreciable  quantities  in  the  native  or  free  state. 
2.  Calcite  an  Aragonite.  3.  Table  Case :  Exhibit  of  imitation 
and  artificial  gems ;  the  former  being  ingenious  substitutes, 
while  the  latter  are  chemical  reproductions  of  the 
natural  stones.  4.  Quartz  and  its  variations  (the  most  abun- 
dant and  most  widely  distributed  of  all  minerals).  5.  Table 
Case :  Gem  minerals,  a.  in  natural  rough  form ;  b.  Gems 
in  the  cut  and  finished  form.  6.  Disbrow  Collection  of  New 
Jersey  Zeolites  and  Associated  Minerals.  Gift  of  William 
S.   Disbrow,    Newark,   N.   J.     7.   Table   Case:    Miscellaneous 


312  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

collection  of  specimens  recently  described  in  the  Museum 
Publications.  8.  Containing  mainiy  carved  specimens  of  Rock 
Crystal,  Agate,  Serpentine,  etc.  9.  Varieties  of  Silica  occurring 
in  the  natural  state.  10.  Table  Case:  Shepard  Collection  of 
Minerals,  containing  many  new  mineral  species  discovered  and 
tontaining  complete  series  of  all  known  radioactive  minerals 
and  radium  ores,  both  American  and  foreign,  together  with 
photograph  autographed  card  of  Madame  Curie. 

Charles  .  Upham    Shepard     (1804-86)     was    one    of    the    earliest    of 
American    mineralogists.      His    collection,    part    of     which    is    contained 
in  this  case,  includes  over  three  hundred  gems,  and  is  exhibited  through 
the  courtesy  of  his  son,  Dr.   C.  U.   Shepard  of   Summerville,   N.    C. 

11.  Varieties  of  Carbonite  of  Lime  occurring  in  nature. 
12.  Table-case :  Shepard  Collection  continued.  13.  Miscel- 
laneous exhibit  of  minerals,  comprising  specimens  too  large 
to  be  included  in  the  Systematic  Collection  on  N.  Wall. 
14.  Table-case:  Minerals  of  Lake  Superior  Region,  Mich. 
This  locality  'has  become  famous  for  the  beauty  of  its  min- 
erals, especially  for  its  copper  and  iron  ores.  15.  Miscellaneous 
exhibits  continued  from  case  13.  16.  Recent  accessions  (1916- 
£7)  not  yet  classified.  17.  ^Malachite  and  Azurite.  Note  the 
vivid  colorings. 

South  East  Pavilion.  This  hall  is  devoted  to  exhibits  of : 
I.  The  metal-bearing  minerals ;  II.  The  non-metallic  minerals. 
The  former  are  shown  in  cases  along  the  S.  E.  and  N.  walls, 
beginning  with  the  first  case  E.   of  No.   17  in   South  aisle: 

I.  Radium  ores  and  Radio-active  minerals :  Carnotite,  Tor- 
bernite,  Uraninite,  Gummite,  etc.  2.  Copper  Ores.  East 
Wall :  3.  Gold  Ores.  4  and  5.  Silver  Ores.  6.  Lead  Ores.  7. 
Zinc  Ores.  8.  Copper  Ores.  9.  Copper  Ores  concluded;  Ores 
of  Antimony  and  minor  metals,  including  Arsenic,  Bismuth, 
Cadmium  and  Platinum.     10.  Mercury  and  Aluminnuim  ores; 

II.  Nickel  ores.  12.  Tungsten,  Vanadium  and  minor  -metals 
used  in  steel  making  (Titanium,  Molybdenum,  etc.).  13, 
14,   15,  16.     Iron  Ores. 

West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  Non-metallic  Minerals.  1.  Natural 
Salts,  Rare  Earths  and  Minor  Minerals.  2.  Nitrates,  Borates 
and  Sulphates.  3.  Haloid  Salts ;  Halites,  Fluorites  and  Cryo- 
lites. 4.  Micas,  Steatites  and  Soapstones.  5.  Asbestos,  Crude 
and  Manufactured.  6.  The  Diamond.  This  exhibit  illus- 
trates the  geological  conditions  of  the  famous  diamond  fields 
constituting  the  De  Beers  Consolidated  Mines,  Ltd.,  Kim- 
berly,  S.  A. 

East  Wing,  North  Aisle:  The  exhibits  herein  contained, 
oomprising  thirty-three  wall  cases  and  many  other  specimens 


MISCELLANEOUS    COLLECTIONS  313 

attached  to  the  walls,  and  exhibited  in  the  central  corridor, 
consist  exclusively  of  building  and  ornamental  stones,  marble 
granite  onyx,  etc.  By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  collection 
has  been  donated  by  the  leading  quarries  of  America,  and 
consists  chiefly  of  cubes,  showing  the  grain  and  quality  of 
the  stone  both  polished  and  in  the  rough. 

East  Range  and  North  Range,  East  Section:  North 
American  Antiquities.  This  collection  extends  uninter- 
ruptedly through  these  two  ranges  and  inner  side  aisles,  and 
may  be  most  conveniently  visited  by  following  one  line  of 
cases  at  a  time,  throughout  the  entire  length  of  both  ranges. 

East  Range,  East  Wall:  (S.  to  IN.):  1.  Model  of 
Penasco  Blanco,  an  ancient  ruined  Pueblo  of  New  Mexico. 
2.  Ancient  pottery  from  the  Rio  San  Francisco,  New  Mexico. 
3-4.  Antiquities  of  New  Mexico:  Arrow  points,  pottery,  bone 
whistles,  bone  awls,  etc.  5.  Antiquities  from  pre-historic 
ruins  in  southern  Arizona :  mats,  baskets,  bags,  knives, 
sandals,  etc.  6.  Ancient  pottery  from  the  Jemez  Plateau, 
N.  M.  7.  Fabrics,  sandals,  basketry,  etc.,  from  Socorro 
Co.,  N.  M.  8.  Aboriginal  stone  implements  from  New 
Mexico.  9.  Basketry,  woven  cloth,  sandals,  hafted  axes, 
etc.,  from  Cliff  Dwelings  of  Colorado.  10.  Mauls, 
axes,    pestles    and    ancient    pottery    from    S.    W.    Colorado. 

11.  Grooved  stone  axes  of   many  types   from  many  localities. 

12.  Antiquities  oi  western  Utah,  including  wooden  agricul- 
tural implements,  pottery,  pestles,  arrow  heads,  bone  awls, 
etc.  13.  Antiquities  from  Wyoming.  14.  Implements,  weap- 
ons, etc.,  from  Idaho,  Washington,  Montana,  California  and 
Oregon.  15.  Synoptic  Series  of  Abraiding  implements  used 
by  Indians  from  Maine  to  California ;  also  Synoptic  Series 
of  Plummit  stones.  16.  Arrow-heads,  stone  implements  and 
potter}'-  from  Texas,  Iowa,  Arkansas  and  Indiana.  17.  Rejectage 
of  blade-making,  from  Mill  Creek  Chert  Quaries,  Illinois. 
18.  Arrow-heads,  implements,  pottery,  etc.,  found  in  mounds 
in   Illinois.      19.     Synoptic   Series    of   Notched   axes. 

North  Wall  (E.  toW.)  :  1.  *  Aboriginal  Iron-Mining  Group, 
working  underground  in  an  ore-body  of  hematite.  2.  Synoptic 
Series  of  hematite  implements,  also  samples  of  ore  and  of  yel- 
low and  red  oxides  and  white  Kaolin,  dug  out  by  pre-historic 
tribes  in  Missouri.  3.  Antiquities  of  Missouri.  4.  Rejectage  of 
manufacture,  Flint  Ridge  Quarries,  Ohio.  5.  Ohio  continued. 
Arrow-heads,  spearpoints,  hammer-stones,  pipes,  knives,  etc. 
6.  Antiquities  from  Madisonville  cemetery,  Ohio.  7.  The 
D.  H.  Harris  Collection  of  Archaeological  objects  from  Ohio 
and  Missouri.     8.  Contents  of  a  Spring  Shrine,  Afton,  Okla. 


314  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

0.  Antiquities  from  West  Virginia  and  Tennessee.  10.  Reject- 
age  of  blade-making,  from  Peoria  Chert  Quarries,  n.  Mound 
Collection,  mainly  from  Monroe  and  Loudan  Cos.,  Term. 
12.  Picks,  sledges  and  sheets  from'  aboriginal  mica  mines, 
N.  C,  13.  Antiquities  of  Kentucky,  including  grooved  axes, 
celts,  pestles,  spear-heads,  drill-points,  etc. ;  also  ancient  pot- 
tery from  Arkansas.  14.  Novaculite  Quarries  of  Arkansas : 
refuse  oif  manufacture  and  implements  used  in  the  work  of 
making  leaf-shaped  blades.  15.  Antiquities  of  Arkansas, 
including  earthenware,  arrow-heads,  hammer-stones,  etc.  16. 
Synoptic  Series  of  cache  blades.  17.  Ancient  earthenware  of 
the  Eastern   States.     18.  Synoptic  Series  of  tobacco  pipes. 

North  Range,  Central  Cases  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  (W.  Wall 
Case)  Aboriginal  sculpture  O'f  the  United  States,  including 
casts.  2  and  3.  Synoptic  Series  of  Tobacco  Pipes  (most 
varied  in  design  of  any  -aboriginal  stone  work)  :  4.  Synoptic 
Series  of  pierced  tablets  and  gorgets — a  numerous  and  widely 
•distributed  class  of  pre-historic  relics,  which  are  usually 
regarded  as  personal  ornaments.  5.  Ceremonial  objects 
(temporary  instalment).  6.  Synoptic  Series  of  Boat-shaped 
Amulets ;  also  Bird-shaped  Amulets ;  found  in  burial  mounds 
and  graves  in  the  Ohio  Valley  and  around  the  Great  Lakes ; 
also  Series  of  "Bannerstones,"  resembling  double-bladed  adzes 
and  pierced  to  receive  a  haft;  use  unknown;  7.  Masterpieces 
of  flint  chipping:  long  blades,  arrow-heads,  etc.  8.  Synoptic 
Series  of  pigment  plates  (stone  plates  or  palettes  used  by 
Mound  Builders  'for  grinding  pigments)  ;  also  Synoptic  Series 
of  gaming  discs  used  by  eastern  U.  S.  tribes.  9.  Chipped 
flint  blades.      10.     Synoptic    Series   o>f   cache  blades. 

(East  Range,  Central  Exhibits)  N.  to  S. :  1.  "The  Stone 
Implement  'Maker,"  model  of  figure  chipping  a  bowlder  with 
a  stone  hammer.  2.  Chipped  flint  discs  peculiar  to  Ohio,  Mis- 
sissippi, Tennessee  and  Cumberland  River  valleys.  3.  Syn- 
optic Series  of  cup  stones.,  eastern  U.  S.  4.  Synoptic  Series 
of  Agricultural  Implements,  chiefly  from  middle  Mississippi 
valley.  5.  Tennessee  and  Missouri :  blades,  celts,  also 
abraiding  stone  used  to  sharpen  stone  implements.  6.  Syn- 
optic Series  of  Celts,  eastern  U.  S.  7-  Pseudo-Artifacts : 
This  series  contains  natural  forms  of  rock  variously  produced, 
resembling  or  suggesting  works  of  art,  but  bearing  no  actual 
trace  of  human  handiwork.  8.  Synoptic  Series  of  Adz  Blades, 
eastern  U.  S.  9.  Copper  ornaments  from  mounds ;  also  rub- 
bing stones  and  implements.  10.  Agricultural  Implements 
continued.  11.  Bone  awls  and  other  relics  from  mounds  near 
Naples,   111.,   models   of  mounds ;   also   series  of   grooved  and 


MISCELLANEOUS    COLLECTIONS  315 

ungrooved  adzes  from  Alaska,  Washington,  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia. 12.  Synoptic  Series  of  the  Grooved  Ax,  eastern  U.  S. 
13.  Ancient  textiles  from  caves  in  Morgan  Co..  Tenn.,  also 
wooden  carvings  from  Unga  Island,  Alaska.  14.  Synoptic 
Series  oif  Hammer-stones,  eastern  U.  S.  15.  Stone  imple- 
ments from  various  Pueblo  towns  and  ruined  sites.  16.  Stone 
implements  from  arid  region  of  Colorado,  Arizona,  etc. 
17.  Specimens  of  ancient  pottery  of  the  Pueblo  region. 

East  Wing  continued:  West  Wall  Cases.  (Here,  as  on 
the  Main  Floor,  the  side  aisle  is  divided  at  each  pillar  into 
alcoves,  each  alcove  containing  6  or  more  cases.  While  the 
abundance  of  these  exhibits  delights  the  specialist,  there  is 
so  much  repetition  that  the  average  visitor  will  care  only 
for  a  few  of  the  more  striking  objects  here,  noted,  The  num- 
bers refer  to  the  alcoves  and  not  to  the  separate  cases. 
1.  Antiquities  of  Arizona :  note  especially  *Model  of  Cliff 
Dwelling,  "Mummy  Cave  Ruin,"  so  named  from  mummy  of 
an  infant  found  there ;  situated  in  Canyon  del  Muerto,  North- 
east Arizona;  modeled  by  Cosmo  Mindclcff ;  Model  of  Com- 
pound A,  Casa  Grande  Ruins,  Pinal  Co.,  Ariz. ;  also  Antiqui- 
ties of  Little  Colorado  River  region,  chiefly  from  collection 
of  Dr.  J.  Walter  Fczvkes.  2.  Arizona  continued :  Pottery 
and  implements  from  cliff  dwellings ;  Comprehensive  model 
of  Casa  Grande  Ruins,  (Compounds  A,  B,  C  and  D),  dis- 
covered by  the  Jesuit  father,  Eusebio  Francisco^  Kino  in  1694. 
3.  Arizona  continued:  Note  especially  large  assortment  of 
religious  objects  from  Bear  Creek  Cave,  Graham  Co.,  sug- 
gesting that  this  was  a  spot  of  peculiar  sacredness.  4.  Antiqui- 
ties of  the  Southwest,  chiefly  from  California.  5.  Antiquities 
of  Pacific  States :  not  especially  *Aboriginal  Soapstone  Quarry 
Group,  showing  man  with  stone  pick  cutting  out  a  roundish 
mass  of  soapstone,  while  woman  with  rude  chisel  roughs  out 
a  globular  pot.  6.  Pacific  Coast  continued :  Note  wood 
carvings  from  iburial  cave,  Delaroff  Harbor,  Alaska. 
7.  Southeast  Alaska:  Tools  and  household  implements  of 
bone,  stone,  slate,  etc.  Note  at  corner  of  North  Range  large 
Stone  Image,  from  Easter  Island  (in  S.  Pacific  Ocean,  2000 
mi.    from  any  other  inhabited  land). 

North  Range:  South  Wall  Cases  (E.  to  W.)  :  Alcove  1. 
Antiquities  from  Obsidian  (volcanic  class)  Mines  of  Mexico: 
♦Antiquities  of  West  Indies;  A.  Stone  Collars:  B.  Tri- 
pointed  Idols :  C.  Maskettes  of  Stone ;  D.  Pentaloid  Celts ; 
Alcove  2.  West  Indies  continued :  Celts  and  chisels ;  Antiqui- 
ties of  Porto  Rico,  pottery  and  beadwork;  Alcove  3.  Santo 
Domingo:    terra,-<cotta ;    vessels    plates    for    grinding   cassava; 


316  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Miscellaneous  collection  from  caves  and  prehistoric  village 
sites  in  Aleutian  Islands ;  Alcove  4.  Relics  of  Hunter  tribes 
of  Kansas ;  Antiquities  of  O'hio  and  of  Hawaii ;  Alcove  5. 
Antiquities  of  Texas ;  Colonial  Relics  of  European  manufac- 
ture, found  in  Indian  graves ;  Alcove  6.  Collection  illustrat- 
ing the  manufacture  of  Hatchet -blades ;  Collection  of  Archae- 
ological Relics  of  the  District  of  Columbia ;  Alcove  7.  Antiqui- 
ties of  Costa  Rica  and  California. 

North  Hall,  East  Aisle:  American  Archaeology  con- 
tinued; Antiquities  of  Mexico,  Central  and  South  America. 
A  large  part  of  this  collection  necessarily  consists  of  casts 
and  models,  reproducing  famous  ruins  and  prehistoric  art 
treasures  which  have  not  been  permitted  to  leave  their  native 
countries.  The  plaster  casts  are  mostly  from  sculptures  pre- 
served in  the  National  Museum  at  Mexico  City.  The  models 
of  temples  and  other  ancient  buildings,  on  a  scale  of  1/24 
original  size,  were  all  made  under  the!  direction  of  W.  H, 
Holmes,  by  De  Lancey  Gill,  architect,  H.  W.  Hendley  and  W. 
H.  Gill,  sculptors. 

Central  Exhibits  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  Commemorative  Stone 
of  Tizoc  (plaster  cast),  a  huge  disc  with  calendar  marks 
and  other  sculptures,  sometimes  called  the  "Sacrificial  Stone" 
(dug  up  in  the  principal  plaza  of  Mexico  City)  ;  2.  Reduced 
model  of  the  "The  Castle,"  in  ancient  city  of  Chichen-Itza, 
Yucatan.  This  is  the  best  preserved  of  the  several  pyramid 
temples  of  that  city.  The  pyramid  is  190  ft.  sq.  at  base,  60 
ft.  sq.  at  summit  and  80  ft.  high.  The  temple  measures 
44x48  ft.;  3.  Chac-Mool,  reclining  human  figure,  heroic  size, 
found  at  Chichen-Itza  (the  name  signifies  "Tiger,"  and  was 
given  because  the  figure  was  found  near  the  Temple  of  Tigers)  ; 

4.  Colossal  figure  of  Aztec  deity  from  ancient  City  of  Mexico. 

The  complicated  carvings  of  this  huge  sculpture  apparently  repre- 
sent a  standing  human  figure,  but  the  human  elements  are  dominated 
by  those  of  serpents  and  monsters.  The  opposite  fronts  are  supposed 
to  symbolize  respectively  Teoyaomiqui,  Goddess  of  Death,  and  Huitzilo- 
pochtli,  Goddess  of  War,  the  whole  being  symbolic  of  the  hideous 
religious  beliefs  of  the  Aztecs,  involving  ruthless  human  sacrifices.  The 
visitor  should  compare  this  exhibit  with  the  much  finer  specimen  of 
Maya  art,  No.  9,  below. 

5.  Model  of  ruined  temple  of  Xoehicalco  ("Hill  of  Flowers"), 
situated  40  miles  S.  of  Mexico  City.  6.  Model  of  "The  Palace" 
at  Mitla,  Mexico;  7.  *Colossal  figure  of  a  Maya  Deity  (plaster 
cast),  from  ruined  city  of  Quirigua,  Guatemala;  8.  Reduced 
model  of  "The  House  of  the  Governor,"  one  of  the  chief 
surviving  structures   in   the   ruined   city   of    Uxmal,   Yucatan. 

9-16.  Case  Exhibits:  9.  Antiques  of  Mexico:  from 
Nahvartl,  Valley  of  Mexico,  Terra-cotta  stamps  and  moulds, 


MISCELLANEOUS    COLLECTIONS  317 

spindle-whorls  images,  etc. ;  10.  Central  and  South  America ; 
Carved  amulets,  beads,  pendants,  etc.,  of  jade  and  other  semi- 
precious stones.  11.  Antiquities  of  Patagonia:  Stone  imple- 
ments, flints,  scrapers,  arrow-points,  etc.,  mainly  from  Rio 
Negro  District;  also  earthenware  effigy  vessels  from  Manizales, 
Colombia;  (C.  A.  Pope  Collection.)  12.  Antiquities  of  Chile: 
^Primitive  mining  implements  found  in  the  Restauradora 
Mine  in  1809. 

The  most  important  feature  of  this  find  was  the  desiccated  body  of 
a  prehistoric  miner,  who  apparently  had  been  accidentally  caught  and 
crushed  by  a  cave-m  of  earth  and  stone.  This  body,  curiously  pre- 
served from  decay  because  impregnated  with  copper  salts,  is  now  ex- 
hibited in  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History,  N.  Y.  C.  (see 
Rider's  New   York   City,  p.   296). 

(b.)  Antiquities  of  Ecuador  and  Bolivia:  Note  espe- 
cially *Ancient  silver  image  from  ruins  on  island  in  Lake 
Titicaca,  Bolivia;  (c.)  Antiquities  of  Venezuela;  13.  An- 
tiquitities  of  Peru :  pottery,  vessels,  stone  implements  and 
utensils,  bronze  and  copper  articles,  breastpins,  beads,  etc. ; 
14.  Peru  continued.  *Mummy  of  a  child  from  grave  near 
Ancon,  Peru ;  Another  child  mummy ;  aprons,  belts,  ponchos, 
etc. 

This  case  also  contains  textiles,  pottery  and  copper  implements  from 
pre-Columbian  Haucas  (or  mounds)  and  cemeteries  in  the  Valley  of 
Chicama. 

15.  *Feathered  Ponchos  or  Indian  capes.  Two  speci- 
mens consisting  of  feathers  sewed  upon  woven  fabric,  and 
forming  elaborate  patterns  in  vivid  colors.  These  are  ranked 
among  the  finest  specimens  of  (their  kind.  Gift  of  Dr.  A. 
Hrdlicka. 

At  South  end  of  Aisle :  1.  Temple  doorway  in  Chichen- 
Itza,  Yucatan;  2.  Portion  of  Interior  Wall  and  sloping  ceiling 
of  a  ceremonial  chamber  in  the  principal  temple  of  the  tennis 
court  or  gymnasium  in  what  is  known  as  the  "Temple  of 
the  Jaguars"  (so-called  because  of  the  line  of  Jaguars  form- 
ing a  frieze  around  the  exterior). 

East  wall  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Section  of  a  column  from  Chichen-Itza 
(cast) ;  2.  Model  of  the  Temple  of  the  Cross,  Palenque,  State  of 
Chiapas,  Southern  Mexico;  3.  Antiquities  of  Argentina;  4.  Costa  Rican 
Antiquities;  5.  Antiquities  of  Brazil;  6.  Rica,  idols,  etc.;  7.  *Antiquities 
of  Nicaragua:  pottery  with  curious  decorations  of  snakes,  frogs  and 
lizards;  8.  Costa  Rica  continued;  9.  Ancient  Mexican  sculptures  (plaster 
facsimilies)  :  Aztec  deities  including:  Serpent  Deity,  Goddess  of  Fertility, 
Goddess  of  Water,  etc.;  10.  Costa  Rica  continued;  11.  *Habitat  group, 
showing  two  Indian  stone-cutters  employed  respectively  in  dressing  a 
scrare  block,  and  ornamenting  one  side  with  sculptures;  12.  Costa 
Rica  continued;  13.  Mexican  sculptures  continued :  coiled  teatherede 
serpent,  stone  yokes,  etc.;  14.  Costa  Rica:  stone  idols  continued;  15-1?-. 
Antiquities  of  Mexico  continued :  Note  especially  figure  of  Centeotl, 
Goddess  of  Maize. 


318  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

North  End  Case:  Prehistoric  musical  instruments,  including 
specimens  from  Mexico,  Central  and  South  America,  pottery  rattles, 
whistling  bottles  and  vases  (from  graves),  flageolets  and  pan-pipes  (of 
stone,   reed,   bone  and   pottery). 

West  Wall  (N.,  to  S.)  Cases  i  and  2.  Mexican  antiquities. 
Between  these  cases  is  a  facsimile  of  the  great  Calendar  Stone.  1 1  ft. 
2  in.  in  diameter,  found  on  the  site  of  the  present  Cathedral  of  Mexico, 
formerly  occupied  by  the  Aztec  Teocalli  Temple,  destroyed  by  the 
Spanish  conquerors.  Beyond,  occupying  the  greater  part  of  the  western 
wall,  are  two  long  cases  of  five  divisions  each,  containing  antiquities  of: 
a.  Mexico-  (States  of  Chihuahua,  Jalisco,  Oaxaca,  etc);  b.  Guatemala; 
c.  Honduras;  d.  Nicaragua;  e.  Costa  Rica;  f"  Panama;  g.  Peru;  h. 
Argentina.  Note  especially  the  elaborate  and  grotesque  Oaxaca  idols  and 
Nicaragua  painted  pottery.  Affixed  to  the  wall  are  numerous  plaster  casts 
of  sculptured  panels,  etc.  The  most  noteworthy  is  a  dark  red  panel  at 
S.  E.  cor.,  being  an  altatf  panel  from  the  ancient  Maya  Temple  of  the 
Sun,   at  Tikal,   Guatemala. 

North  Hall.  Western  Aisle:  Antiquities  of  Europe,  Asia 
and  Africa.  South  End:  Plaster  casts  of  classic  sculptures : 
1.  The  Laocoon  (original  in  Vatican)  ;  2.  Hermes  (from  the 
Island  of  Andros)  ;  3.  The  Fates  (E.  Pediment  of  the  Parthe- 
non) ;  4.  Model  of  the  Parthenon. 

East  Wall  Cases;  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Mediterranean  An- 
tiques, casts  of  iGreek  and  Roman  sculptures;  2.  Italian 
potteries:  vases,  jugs  and  bowls;  3  and  4.  Antiquities  of  West- 
ern Asia:  (Hebrew,  Syrian,  etc.)  :  The  Bible  in  Latin,  Greek, 
Turkish,  Korean,  etc.;  also  copy  of  "The  Life  and  Morals 
of  Jesus  of  Nazareth,"  compiled  by  Thomas  Jefferson  in 
1804,  together  with  the  two  copies  of  the  English  New 
Testament  from  which  Jefferson  took  his  clipping;  musical 
instruments  mentioned  in  the  Bible;  costumes  of  Palestine 
and  Syria ;  ornaments  and  utensils ;  coins  mentioned  in  the 
Bible  (Hebrew,  Persian,  Greek  and  Roman)  ;  Precious  stones 
mentioned  in  the  Bible;  5.  Assyrian  and  Babylonian  Antiq- 
uities :  Plaster  casts  of  bas-reliefs,  etc. ;  6.  Antiquities  of 
Egypt:  sculptures,  natural  products,  Egyptian  textile  art; 
modern  Egyptian  bricks;  agricultural  products,  cotton,  sugar- 
cane and  wheat;  Egyptian  sculptures  (casts),  funeral  cone 
and  fragments  of  mummied  animals ;  7.  Egypt  continued. 
Mortuary  relics,  mummy  cloth,  etc. 

West  Aisle  continued:  Central  cases  (N.  to  S.)  :  Case  1. 
Greek,  Roman  and  Etruscan  Pottery;  Case  2.  Collection  of 
Roman  Bronzes  and  Glass-ware,  lent  by  Thomas  Nelson 
Page ;  Case  3-  Greek  and  Roman  Pottery  and  Bronzes  con- 
tinued; Case  4-.  Egyptian  Antiquities,  necklaces  and  figurines; 
Mummied  cat;  Case  5.  Roman  and  Etruscan  terra  cotta 
figurines  (lent  by  Mrs.  E.  A.  H.  Magruder)  ;  Case  6.  Ancient 
coins  :  Greek,  Roman,  Syrian  and  Armenian  Case  7.  Roman  and 
Etruscan   fish-hooks,    surgical    and    dental    instruments,     awls, 


MISCELLANEOUS    COLLECTIONS  319 

bodkins,  needles,  razors  and  bronze  household  articles ;  Case  8. 
Germany,  Stone  Age :  Flake  knives ;  roughly  chipped  celts ; 
partly  polished  celts ;  flint  daggers ;  ax  hammers,  etc.  Case  9. 
Miscellaneous  bronzes:  celts,  daggers  and  sickles  from  Hun- 
gary, Italy,  Germany,  Switzerland  (Lake  Dwellers),  Sweden 
and  England ;  Case  10.  East  Africa,  Somaliland :  Implements 
of  flint  and  quartz  collected  and  presented  by  Sir  H.  W.  Seton- 
Karr;  Case  II.  Antiquities  of  Ancient  Troy:  Collection  of 
pre-historic  objects  found  at  Hissarlik,  the  site  of  ancient 
Troy,  by  Dr.  Henry  Schliemann  during  the  years  of  1870-82. 
Presented  by  Mrs.  Schliemann.  Also  collection  of  Armenian 
antiquities  from  the  ancient  necropolis  of  Monci-yeri,  ne'ir 
Allahverdi  in  the  Caucasus ;  Case  12.  A.  Africa,  Stone  Age : 
Stone  implements  and  fragments  of  pottery,  collected  mainly 
from  Kitchen-middens  and  caves  of  Cape  Colony;  B.  Egypt 
and  Palestine  Stone  Age :  Antiquities  from  Wady  El-Shiekh 
and  from  tomb  of  Osiris  at  Abydos ;  ,Case  13.  Model  of  a 
Swiss  Lake  Dwelling  settlement;  Cases  14-15.  Stone  Age  in 
Japan,  Korea,  Australia  and  Tasmania ;  Case  16.  Antiquities 
of  Asia;  India,  Indo-China  and  Cmbodia;  collection  of  chipped 
implements  found  by  A.  C.  Carlyle,  of  the  Archaeological  Sur- 
vey, in  the  caves  and  rock  shelters  of  the  Vindhya  Hills,  Cen- 
tra India;  collection  of  objects  from  Kitchen-middens  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Ton-le-Sap,  by  Prof.  L.  H.  James. 

West  Wall  Cases  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Stone  Age  implements 
from  Denmark,  Sweden  and  Norway.  2.  Antiquities  found  in 
Danish  Kitchen-middens.  3-4.  Antiquities  from  the  Lake- 
Dwelling  period  in  Switzerland  (Neolithic  Age).  5.  Stone 
Age  in  Belgium :  Bones,  animal  skulls,  celts,  axes,  flint 
knives  and  other  relics.  6.  Mesvinuan  and  Strepijan  Arti- 
facts :  Nodules  and  flakes  of  flint  or  brown  chert,  adapted 
to  the  purpose  of  hammering,  cutting,  etc.  7.  Dolmen 
deposits  in  France,  Neolithic  period.  8.  Art  works  of  the 
Stone  Age :  Casts  of  sculptured  and  engraved  horns.  9.  France 
continued:  Fragments  of  implements  from  caverns  illustrat- 
ing the  arts  of  the  Paleolithic  period.  10.  Stone  Age  in 
England:  Flakes,  gun-flints,  etc.  made  at  Brandon,  Suffolk. 
11.  Arrowheads,  chisels^  knives,  flakes,  celts  and  scrapers 
from  England  and  Ireland,  Neolithic  Period.  12.  Ancient 
Coins,  Roman,  Persian,  Macedonian,  etc.  13.  England  con- 
tinued: flint  implements  and  other  relics  of  the  Paleolithic 
period,  including  a  number  of  Eoliths,  believed  to  be  the 
earliest  known  attempts  of  man  at  tool-making.  14.  Coins, 
pottery  and  other  antiquities  from  Egypt  and  Italy.  15.  Pre- 
historic Antiquities  from  the  Terremare  settlements   in  Italy: 


320  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

arrowhead  flint  implements,  etc.  16.  Roman  and  Etruscan 
Antiquities.  17.  Turkestan :  collection  of  potteries  and  tiles 
dating  from  the  12th  and  13th  centuries.  18.  Potteries  from 
Greece  and  Italy,  including  much  Italian  Black-ware  and 
Arretine    pottery. 

North  Central  Pavilion:  Antiquities  of  Egypt,  Assyria 
and  Palestine  (Unless  otherwise  stated  these  exhibits  are 
plaster  reproductions)  : 

South  Wall  (W.  to  ,E.)  :  1.  Statue  of  the  God  Hadad, 
with  inscription  in  old  Aramaean.  Erected  in  North  Syria  by 
Panammu  II  (see  exhibit  9  below)  ;  2.  Stele  of  Sargon  II, 
King  of  Assyria  709-05  B.  C.  (father  of  Sennacherib).  The 
original  Stele  was  found  in   1845   on  the  Island  of   Cypress  ; 

3.  Human-headed,  winged  bull,  found  on  site  of  Ninevah  in 
1846,  by  Sir  Austin  H.  Layard  (original  in  British  museum)  ; 

4.  Lid  of  sarcophagus  of  Sebaski,  an  Egyptian  priest  of  about 
700  B.  C,  Rosetta  Stone;  5.  Babylonian  code  of  Hammurabi. 
The  original  was  found  1901-02  in  the  ancient  city  of  Susa  (the 
Shushan  of  the  Bible).  The  compiler  of  these  laws  is  identified 
with  Amraphel,  mentioned  in  Genesis  (Gen.  XIV,  9),  a  con- 
temporary of  Abraham.  Consequently,  this  code  is  1000  years 
older  than  ithe  Hebrew  Pentatuch;  6.  Human-headed,  winged 
lion  from  Ninevah,  Layard  Expedition  (see  above  exhibit  3.)  : 

7.  Horus,  Egyptian  god,  personification  of  the  Morning  Sun; 

8.  Hopi,  Egyptian  god  of  the  Nile;  9.  Torso  of  Panammu  II, 
found  at  Senjirli.  Asia  Minor  (a  King  who  held  sway  in  the 
country  of  the  Hittites  in  the  8th  centnry  B.  C.).  The  in- 
scription consists  of  23  lines  in  old  Aramaean,  constituting  one 
of  the  oldest  existing  specimens  of  that  language. 

East  Wall  Case:  Mortuary  Customs  of  Ancient  Egypt 
(coffins  and  mortuary  boxes). 

Central  Exhibits  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Egyptian  Mummy  of 
Luexor,  1886,  gift  of  Hon.  S.  S.  Cox,  then  U.  S.  Minister  to 
Turkey.  2.  Relief  map  of  Palestine ;  3.  Cast  of  ancient  Siloam, 
recording  the  opening  of  the  Pool  of  Siloam  by  King  Heze- 
kiah;  4.  Reproduction  of  a  Greek  Inscription  from  the  Temple 
of  Jerusalem;  5.  Cast  of  Obelisk  of  Shalmanesor  II,  King 
of  Assyria;  6.  Moabite  Stone  (original  in  Louvre)  ;  7.  Roman 
Mosaic,  Lion  attacking  a  Wild  Ass. 

This  exhibit  is  practically  the  only  remnant  of  an  elaborate  mosaic 
flooring  in  the  Temple  of  Astarte,  Carthage.  It  was  rescued  by  Sir 
Richard  Wood,  the  British  Consul  General  to  Tunis,  exhibited  at  the 
Philadelphia  Centennial  Exposition,  and  presented  by  him  to  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution. 

8.  Cast  of  Statue  of  Queen  Amenerdas  (about  720  B.  C.)  ; 

9.  Cast  of    Statue  of    Chepeen,   third  King  of   4th   Dynasty, 


MISCELLANEOUS   COLLECTIONS  321 

3666  B.  C. ;  10.  Medeba  Mosaic  Map  (colored  drawing  of 
Palestine,  from  floor  in  old  church  in  Medeba,  in  what  was 
formerly  Moab).  11-12.  Two  cases  holding  Egyptian  antiq- 
uities :  Book  of  the  Dead,  papyri,  Greco-Egyptian  portrait, 
etc. ;  13.  Wall  case,  containing  coffins  and  canopus  jars. 

Central  Exhibits  continued:  East  Range  (N.  to  S.)  : 
I.  and  Dolphins :  Central  exhibits :  1.  Life-size  Model  of 
Sulphurbottom  Whale.  Balcenoptera  musculus  (Linn.)  from 
Newfoundland  coast  length,  78  ft.;  2.  Gray  Whale,  Rhachi- 
anectes  glaucus  {Cope)  reduced  model;  3.  Skeleton  of  com- 
mon Finback  Whale,  Balaenoptera  physalus  (Linn.)  ;  4.  Skel- 
eton of  Little  Piked  Whale,  B.  acuto-ro strata  (Lacepede)  ; 
5.  Humpback  Whale,  M  emptor  a  nodosa  (skeleton  and  one- 
half  model,  split  lengthwise)  ;  6.  Skeleton  of  Sulphurbottom 
Whale;  (total  length,  75  ft;  skull,  19  ft.  6  in.);  6.  Skull 
of  Killer  Whale,  Orcinus  orva  (Linn.)  ;  7.  Skull  of  Baird's 
Whale,  Berardius  Berardi;  8.  Skull  of  Humpback  Whale, 
Megoptera  longimana ;  9.  North  Atlantic  Right  Whale, 
Balaena  •glacialis    (Bonnaterre). 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Case  1.  Models  of  Whales 
and  Porpoises,  10  species ;  Case  2.  Skeletons  of  Whales  and 
Porpoises,  nine  species ;  Case  3-  Skeletons,  continued :  four 
species. 

This  aisle  also  contains  at  present  (1922)  a  number  of 
additional  exhibits  temporarily  transferred  from  the  North- 
west range.  These  include :  I.  Fauna  of  the  District  of 
Columbia  (note  especially  the  collection  of  Washington 
Birds,  in  14  cases)  ;  II.  iGeneral  Entomological  Collection 
(along  iS.  side  of  aisle;  note  especially  the  tropical  Lepi- 
doptera.  Butterflies  of  India,  Borneo,  Siam,  Java,  Philippines 
and  iSouth  America)  ;  III.  *The  J.  P.  Imings  Collection 
^f  Butterflies  and  Moths,  consisting  of  about  2500  named 
species,   presented   in   1921  by  the  heirs  of  Dr.   Iddings. 

Southwest  Pavilion:  Zoology  continued;  Reptiles  and 
Fishes.  Most  of  these  exhibits  are  skilful  and  accurate 
models  of  originals.  Note,  however,  among  central  cases, 
a  collection  of  *Tropical  Fish  in  tanks  of  preserving  fluid ; 
all  the  original  vivid  coloring  has  been  retained.  Note 
especially  the  following:  Rock  Beauty,  Holocanthus  tricolor 
(scarlet  yellow  and  black)  ;  "Pa  Kui  Kui,"  Tenthis  achilles 
Shaiv,  Hawa'i  (black,  scarlet  and  blue)  ;  "Kihi-kmi,"  Zanclus 
canescens  Linn  (white,  black  and  blue)  ;  Portuguese  Butter- 
fly, Cliaetodon  striatus  Linn  (pale  blue  and  lemon). 

Southwest  Pavilion,  North  End,  and  North  Aisle  of  West 
Wing:      Comparative   Anatomy.     The   greater   part   of   this 


322  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

exhibit  consists  of  a  systematic  collection  of  the  skeletons  of 
Mammals,  Birds,  Reptiles  and  Fishes. 

The  Western  Section  of  the  North  Range  is  temporarily 
closed  to  the  public. 

IV.  The  Smithsonian  Institution — The  Arts  and 
Industries  Building 

(The  "Old"  National  Museum) 

West  of  the  Army  Medical  Museum,  between  9th  and 
10th  Sts.,  stands  the  rectangular  and  somewhat  ungainly 
structure  constituting  the  Arts  and  Industries  Building  of 
the  National  Museum,  popularly  known  as  the  "Old  Na- 
tional Museum." 

The  Museum  is  open  daily,  except  Sunday,  from  9  a.  m. 
to  4.30  p.  m.  There  is  a  small  luncheon  room  situated  at  the 
extreme  end  of  the  E.  wing :  good  and  economical.  Lavatories 
in  S.  E.  corner  of  Museum. 

History.  The  National  Museum  traces  its  origin  to  a  society  organ- 
ized in  Washington  in  1840  under  the  title  of  the  "National  Institute," 
the  object  of  which  included  the  administration  of  the  Smithsonian  be- 
quest, and  the  bringing  together  of  collections  of  Natural  History, 
Ethnology  and  kindred  subjects,  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  general 
museum.  Congress  granted  temporary  quarters  in  the  Patent  Office; 
and  here  for  some  years  was  housed  the  nucleus  of  the  collection,  con- 
sisting of  miscellaneous  "Curiosities"  acquired:  1.  By  gift  of 
Foreign  Powers  to  the  United  States;  2.  Sent  home  by  American 
Consuls  resident  abroad;  3.  Presented  by  Naval  Officers.  These  col- 
lections were  subsequently  transferred  to  the  building  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution,  under  whose  auspices  the  establishment  of  a  Na- 
tional Museum  had  been  authorized  by  act  of  Congress  in  1846 
(P-  255)  ;  and  as  year  by  year  the  bulk  of  the  collection  augmented, 
the  Institution  found  itself  seriously  cramped  for  space.  In  1876  came 
the  Centennial  Exhibition  at  Philadelphia,  from  which  so  large  a  col- 
lection of  valuable  articles  was  acquired  by  gift  to  the  United  States 
through  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  that  they  had  to  be  stored  in  the 
so-called  Armory  Building,  now  occupied  by  the  Fish  Commission 
(P.    245). 

Prof.  Joseph  Henry  in  a  letter  dated  Oct.  8th,  1877,  brought 
to  the  attention  of  Pres.  Hayes  the  urgent  necessity  of  a  new  structure 
to  house  these  additional  and  valuable -exhibits.  Accordingly  the  Presi- 
dent in  his  message  recommended  that  an  adequate  appropriation  should 
be  made  for  the  establishment  and  maintenance  of  a  National  Museum. 

When  the  matter  was  taken  up  by  Congress,  it  was  found  that  a 
Museum  building  worthy  to  rank  among  the  permanent  structures  of 
the  National  Capital  could  not  be  erected  under  a  million  dollars; 
but  that  a  fairly  spacious  exhibition  building,  fairly  fireproof  and  large 
enough  to  house  the  growing  collections  for  some  years  to  come,  might 
be  erected  for  a  quarter  of  that  sum.  Accordingly  $250,000  was  appro- 
priated  for  the  purpose. 

This  first  Museum  building,  completed  in  1881,  was  an 
attempt  so  far  as  the  funds  would  allow,  to  achieve  a  sort 
of   modernized    Romanesque    style    of   architecture,    in    order 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM 


323 


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324  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

to  harmonize  with  the  Norman  style  of  the  original  Smith- 
sonian building, — no  easy  task  when  confined  to  brick,  iron 
and~  slate  as  materials    (Class  and  Schulze,  architects). 

The  resultant  structure  is  a  square  building  of  a  single 
story  in  height,  covering  in  all  about  an  acre  and  a  half  of 
ground.  It  consists  of  four  large  naves  and  central  rotunda 
forming  a  Greek  cross,  with  ranges  and  covered  courts  filling 
the  corners. 

The  central  rotunda  is  octagonal  below  with  a  diameter 
of  65  ft.,  surmounted  by  a  sixteen  sided  polygon,  and  cov- 
ered by  a  slate  roof  rising  to  a  central  lantern,  with  a  total 
height  of  108  ft. 

The  main  entrance  is  on  the  Mall,  in  the  center  of  the 
N.  facade.  It  consists  of  a  talil,  arched  framework  of  Ohio 
sandstone  surmounted  by  a  pediment  with  sculptured  group 
representing,  "Columbia  as  Protectress  of  Science  and  In- 
dustry"    (C.  Buberl,  N.  Y.,   sculptor). 

The  first  use  to  which  the  then  newly  finished  building  was  put 
was  for  the  Inaugural  Reception  of  President  Garfield,  March  4th,  1881. 

There  is  no  general  official  guide-book  to  the  collections  in  this 
building.  A  special  catalog  of  the  Historical  Costumes  Exhibit  (p.  331) 
is  on   sale  at  the   curio   stand   in   the   Rotunda,   price   50c. 

Main  Floor,  North  Wing:  United  States  History.  These 
exhibits  are  contained  in  wall-cases  and  in  four  rows  of 
center-cases,  two  rows  on  each  side  of  the  main  aisle.  The 
following  description  starts  with  the  W.  center  row,  from 
N.  to  S.,  returning  by  the  W.  side  row,  then  crossing  to  the 
E.  center  row,  returning  by  E.  side  row  and  leaving  the  cir- 
cuit of  the  wall-cases  for  the  last. 

The  visitor  should  note  above  the  main  entrance,  a  large  allegorical 
mosaic,  designed  by  Bracquecond,  and  made  by  Haviland  and  Com- 
pany, Limoges,  France.  It  consists  of  900  tiles  of  Limoges  Faience, 
and  depicts,  "The  Genius  of  Man  dominating  and  utilizing  Fire  and 
Water.  In  the  right  hand  the  figure  holds  a  casting  in  bronze.  In 
the  left  a  beautiful  vase.  The  service  of  these  elements  in  trans- 
portation and  in  turning  the  wheels  of  industry  is  shown  by  a  loco- 
motive and  group  of  factories."  The  mosaic  measures  15  ft.  4  in.  b> 
11  ft.  5  in.  It  was  displayed  in  Philadelphia  at  the  Centennial  Ex- 
hibition  in    1876,   and   presented   to   the   United    States   by   the   makers. 

West  Central  Aisle:  Case  1.  Abraham  Lincoln:  Con- 
tents include  plaster  face-mask  of  Lincoln  made  in  April, 
i860,  and  bronze  casting  from  it;  also  plaster  molds  of  Lin- 
coln's hands  with  bronze  castings ;  both  by  Leonard  W .  Volk. 
Case  2.  Ulysses  S.  Grant:  a.  (upper  section).  ^Collection 
of  ancient  Japanese  gold  coins  presented  to  Gen.  Grant  in 
1880,  by  the  Japanese  Government,  in  return  for  a  thorough- 
bred horse  given  to  the  Emperor;  also  numerous  gold 
medals;   *Ivory-handled   silver  trowel,   used  by  Pres.    Grant 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  325 

in  laying  the  cornerstone  of  the  American  Museum  of  Nat- 
ural History,  N.  Y.,  June  4th,  1874;  b.  (lower  section) 
Elephant's  tusks,  gift  of  the  King  of  Siam.  Case  3.  Grant 
Collection  continued:  a.  Gold  and  silver  caskets  presented 
to  Gen.  Grant  by  various  cities  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland, 
with  enclosed  "Certificates  of  Freedom"  (the  certificates  are 
now  displayed  in  N.  W.  Range)  ;  porcelains  presented  to 
Grant  in  China,  1879;  b.  Bound  copies  of  Addresses  of 
Welcome  and  other  speeches  in  honor  of  Gen.  Grant.  Case 
4.  William  Tecumseh  Sherman:  a.  Uniforms,  Shako  and 
epaulets  worn  by  Sherman  in  1842  and  1869;  service  swords; 
medals  and  badges ;  b.  Commissions  to  the  various  military 
ranks  held  by  Sherman  (exhibit  disadvantageous^  placed)  ; 
Case  5.  Judson  Kilpatrick:  a.  Silver  service  presented  by 
the  Veterans'  Association  of  Connecticut,  to  Major-General 
Kilpatrick  in  recognition  of  his  services  during  the  Civil 
War ;  b.  leather  saddle,  etc. ;  Case  6.  Myers-Mason  Collec- 
tion :  Family  Heirlooms,  consisting  of  historical  costumes, 
ornaments  of  personal  wear  and  articles  of  the  toilet  used 
by  the  family  during  the  years  1812-1900.  Case  7.  Samuel 
F.  B.  Morse:  Portrait  of  Morse  by  Edward  L.  Morse;  ex- 
hibits showing  the  early  development  of  the  telegraph.  Case  8, 
Joseph  Henry:  a.  Specimens  of  electric  apparatus;  a  copy 
of  portrait  of  Prof.  Henry  embodied  in  bronze  tablet,  de- 
signed by  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens  for  the  Chapel  at  Prince- 
ton University;  b.  Pictures  illustrating  Prof.  Henry's  dis- 
coveries and  inventions.  Case  9.  Cyrus  W.  Field:  a.  Specimens 
of  telegraph  cables  laid  across  the  Atlantic,  1,858,  1865  and  1866 ; 
also  model  of  grapnel  used  in  raising  cables  ;  Field's  walking 
stick  made  fromi  wood  of  the  Great  Eastern,  broken  up  in 
1890;  Portrait  of  Field,  by  Daniel  Huntington;  b.  Pennant 
(32  ft.  long)  used  on  the  Great  Eastern  and  other  steamers 
while  engaged  in  laying  cables  across  the  Atlantic,  1857-66. 
Case  10.  W  infield  Scott  Schley:  a.  Gold  medals  incrusted 
with  diamonds  and  enamel;  Masonic  apron  of  lambskin  and 
blue  silk;  naval  service  uniform  and  cap;  canes  and  swords 
presented  to  Schley;  b.  Section  of  steel  armor  plate  from 
U.  S.  Brooklyn,  damaged  by  shell  in  battle  of  Santiago,  July 
3d.  1898;  canes,  swords,  etc.  Case  11.  David  Glasgow  Far- 
ragut:  Service  uniform  and  cap;  two  pairs  of  epaulets; 
jewelled  sword ;  water-color  of  the  Farragut  coat-of-arms : 
photographs  of  Farragut's  ships,  the  U.  S.  S.  Franklin,  etc. 

West  side  Row  (S.  to  N.)  :  Case  i.Rear  Admiral  Andrew 
H.  Footc,  U.  S.  N.:  Naval  uniform,  epaulets  and  shoulder 
straps ;  spurs,  steel  bayonet  and  Mexican  dirk ;   Miscellaneous 


326  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

articles  found  in  the  snow,  belonging  to  Lieut.  Commander 
De  Long  and  his  men  on  the  Polar  Expedition  of  1881.  Case 
2.  iSchley  Exhibits  continued:  a.  Silver  service  made  of  'Spanish 
coins  recovered  from  the  Cristobal  Colon,  sunk  in  the  battle 
off  Santiago  de  Cuba,  July  3d,  1898,  etc. ;  b.  medals  and  silver 
loving-cups.  Case  3.  Cyrus  W.  Field:  Terrestrial  globe  used 
by  Field  and  his  associates  in  selecting  the  first  cable  route ; 
specimens  of  cables.  Case  4.  *The  Appomattox  Chair,  upon 
which  it  is  said  Gen.  Grant  sat  when  he  wrote  and  signed  the 
articles  of  capitulation  of  the  Confederate  army,  at  Appomat- 
tox Court  House,  Virginia,  April  9th,  1865 ;  also  *Chair  in  the 
McLean  house  at  Appomattox  Court  House,  Virginia,  April 
9th,  1865,  and  used  by  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee  when  writing  the 
note  accepting  the  terms  proposed  by  Gen.  Grant  for  the  sur- 
render of  the  army  of  Northern  Virginia.  Case  5.  Miscel- 
laneous collection  of  Civil  War  period,  including:  gold  medal 
presented  to  Col.  E.  E.  Ellsworth  at  the  Marshall  House, 
Alexandria,  Va.,  May  24,  1861 ;  also  scarf  pin  he  was  wearing 
when  killed ;  uniform  worn  by  Lieut.  Charles  R.  Carville, 
including  sword,  scaibbard  and  epaulets.  Case  6.  Judson  Kil- 
patrick:  Gilded  bust  of  Major-General  Kilpatrick,  U.  S. 
Volunteers,  and  Minister  to  Chile,  1865-68;  glassware,  china, 
etc. ;  also  uniforms  worn  by  him.  Case  7.  George  Brinton 
McClellan:  Uniform,  chapeau,  gauntlets,  silver  spurs,  gold 
and  jewelled  sword  presented  by  the  city  of  Philadelphia, 
other  swords  carried  by  McClellan ;  dress  saddle  cloth, 
revolvers,  belts,  etc.  Case  8.  Frederick  D.  Grant:  a  Uniform, 
service  swords,  shoulder  straps  and  sashes  worn  by  Major- 
General  Grant,  lb.  Saddle  owned  by  Major-General  Grant,  and 
used  on  his  horse  at  his  funeral ;  high  military  boots,  etc. 
Cases  10  and  11.  Ulysses  S.  Grant:  a.  Cloisonne  vases  pre- 
sented at  Tientsin,  China,  June,  1879,  by  Viceroy  Li-Hung- 
Chang;  Uniform  coat  of  the  rank  of  Lieut-General;  swords, 
canes,  etc.  b.  Japanese  embroidered  picture,  presented  by  the 
citizens  of  Japan.  Gifts  presented  to  Gen.  and  Mrs.  Grant 
during  their  trip  around  the  world,  including  a  lacquered 
cabinet,  a  gift  from  the  Empress  of  Japan,  and  said  to  be 
1000  years  old ;  b.  Saddle  used  Iby  Gen.  Grant  in  all  the  battles 
from  Feb.,  1862,  to  April,  1865;  Case  11.  Marble  bust  of 
William  H.  Sewurd,  by  Giovanni  Maria  Benzoni.  Case  12. 
Cast  from  Death-Mask  of  President  ^  McKinley  by  E.  L.  A. 
Pausch,  N.  Y.,  Sept.,  1901.  The  original  mask  was  destroyed 
after  this  cast  was  made. 

East    Central    Row    (N.  'to    S.)  :      Case    1.  Awards    of 
Honor  and  Merit:    *Glass  epergne  decorated  with  silver  and 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  327 

gilt  design,  given  as  grand  prize  of  the  International  Exhibi- 
tion, Berlin,  1880,  presented  to  Spencer  A.  Baird,  United 
States  Commissiioner  of  Fish  and  Fisheries;  *Replica  of 
vase  presented  to  William  Cullen  Bryant  on  his  80th  birth- 
day (designed  by  James  H.  Whitehouse)  ;  miscellaneous 
medals,  etc.;  Case  2.  Discovery  of  the  North  Pole:  (medals 
and  other  tributes  to  Robert  Edwin  Peary)  ;  *Peary  Arctic 
Club  Medal  of  Honor,  being  the  first  and  only  award  of 
this  medal  (the  five  metallic  points  of  the  star  are  from 
Ahnighito  meteorite  brought  from  Cape  York  by  Peary  in 
1897)  ;  Peace  Flag,  presented  to  Peary  by  the  Daughters  of 
the  Revolution  and  displayed  by  him  at  the  North  Pole, 
April  6th,  1909 ;  also  numerous  medals,  loving-cups,  etc.,  in- 
cluding the  Cullum  gold  medal  of  the  American  Geographi- 
cal Society  (first  impression  and  first  award)  ;  Cases  3  and  4. 
Colonial  Period  :  Loan  collection  of  the  National  Society  of 
Colonial  Dames  ;  Case  5.  Loan  collection  of  the  National  Society 
of  the  Daughters  of  the  Revolution ;  Case  6.  Miscellaneous 
exhibits,  including  silver  tea  service  owned  by  Laura  Wol- 
cott,  daughter  of  Oliver  Wolcott,  signer  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence;  Case  7.  Winfield  Scott  Hancock:  Swords,  regi- 
mentals, walking  sticks ;  Case  8.  Naval  Relics :  Uniforms, 
swords,  etc.,  belonging  to  Admiral  David  H.  Porter,  Rear 
Adm.  John  W.  Philip,  etc. ;  fatigue  cap  and  coat  of  Captain 
Charles  B.  Gridley,  Commanding  officer  of  the  flag-ship 
Olympia,  battle  of  Manila  Bay,  May  1st,  1898;  Case  9. 
Miscellaneous  collection :  Relics,  epaulets,  swords,  uniforms, 
etc.,  of  various  army  and  navy  officers.  Case  10.  Relics  of 
Prof.  Samuel  P.  Langley  ;  Case  11.  Awards  and  Honors 
bestowed  upon  Prof.  Simon  Newcomlb  in  recognition  of  his 
services  in  Astronomy  (note  especially  the  badge  of  the  French 
Legion  of  Honor,  with  rank  of  Com'mandenr)  ;  Newcomb's 
uniform  as  Professor  of  Mathematics  to  the  U.  S.  Navy 
(with  rank  of  Rear- Admiral). 

East  Row  (Si.  to  N.)  :  Case  1.  Capron  Family:  Sword 
and  spurs  of  Capt.  Allyn  Capron ;  shoulder  knots,  cavalry 
helmet,  etc.  Case  2.  Confederate  Relics :  Uniforms  and 
swords,  bronze  bust  of  Col.  John  S.  Mosby,  by  Edzvard  V. 
Valentine.  Case  3.  Miscellaneous  Relics  of  Gen.  Thomas 
Swords,  U.  S.  Av,  during  Civil  War  period  and  earlier. 
Case  4.  Miscellaneous  collection  including  swords  of  Maj. 
Gen.  Alexander  MdComb,  Commander  in  Chief,  U.  S.  A., 
1828-41.  Case  5-  Printing  press  used  by  Benjamin  Franklin 
when  a  journeyman  printer  in  London,  1725-26;  Case  6. 
Period  of   the  War  with   Spain  :    *Steering  wheel    from   Bat- 


328  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

tleship  Maine;  blue  and  white  plates  and  saucers,  wine  glasses 
and  other  relics  recovered  from  Maine;  Spanish  chair  from 
Morro  Castle,  Havana.  Case  7.  Loan  collection  of  the 
Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution;  Case  8.  Memorials 
of  the  Bradford  Family.  Case  9.  Loan  collection  of  the 
Colonial  Dames  of  America,  including  silver  urn  made  by 
Paul  Revere,  Case  10.  Swords  and  scabbards  of  Gen.  George 
W.  Morgan  during  War  with  Mexico.  Case  11.  China  tea 
set  owned  by  Col.  Philip  Marsteller,  a  pall  bearer  at  Wash- 
ington's funeral ;  two  statuette  groups  purchased  in  Paris  by 
Gouverneur  Morris. 

Wall  Exhibits,  beginning  on  E.  Wall  from  N.  to  S. : 
Case  1.  Mahogany  secretary  owned  by  Brig.  Gen.  Rufus 
Putnam.  Case  2.  Bronze  inkstand  with  candlestick,  snuffer 
and  blotting  sand,  owned  by  Harvard  University  during  presi- 
dency of  Josiah  Quincy,  Edward  Everett,  Jared  Sparks,  James 
Walker,  Cornelius  Felton,  Thomas  Hill  and  Charles  W. 
Elliot.  Case  3.  Furniture  and  portraits  of  early  19th  cen- 
tury: mahogany  chest  presented  to  George  Washington  by  his 
brother  Lawrence ;  child's  dressing  table  presented  by  Gen. 
Lafayette  to  Martha  Custis,  granddaughter  of  Mrs.  Washing- 
ton ;  leather-backed  chair  and  drawing  room  screen  owned 
by  Washington  in  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  and  later 
at  Mt.  Vernon.  Case  4.  Arm-chair  owned  by  Gen.  Lafayette 
and  used  by  him  on  the  day  of  his  death,  May  20,  1834 ;  walk- 
ing stick  presented  by  Jefferson  to  Dr.  Joseph  Priestley,  dis- 
coverer of  oxygen;  scimitar  presented  to  Jefferson  by  the 
Sultan  of  Morocco.  Marble-top  table  "owned  by  Jefferson 
at  Monticello.  Case  5.  Early  American  chairs ;  side-table 
owned  by  Alexander  Hamilton;  chairs  owned  by  Maj.  Gen. 
Philip  Schuyler ;  arm-chair  owned  by  Commodore  Joshua 
Barney,  Continental  Navy.  Case  6.  Rosewood  chairs  owned 
by  Chief  Justice  John  Marshall ;  mahogany  chair  owned  by 
James  Madison ;  rocking-chair  owned  bv  Henry  Clay. 

South  Wall  Cases :  1.  Model  of  Mayflower.  2.  American 
flag  made  in  Scotland  by  five  Scotch  girls  and  used  at  fun- 
erals of  American  soldiers  lost  on  transport  Tuscania.  3.  Jasper 
vase  presented  to  Simon  Newcomb  by  Alexander  III  of 
Russia.  4.  (W.  oif  door)  George  W.  Custer  relics,  including 
a  buckskin  coat  worn  by  Custer  in  campaign  against  the 
Sioux ;  5.  War  with  Spain :  The  stern  ornament  of  the 
Colon;  6.  Ancient  pieces  of  masonry  from  the  Wall  of 
Servius  Tullius,  presented  to  the  United  States  in  1912  to 
replace  a  similar  block  sent  in  1865,  after  the  assassination 
of  Pres.  Lincoln  and  lost  in  transit.  It  bears  a  memorial 
inscription  in  Latin, 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  329 

West  Wall  Cases:  1.  Case  containing  early  19th  century 
furniture,  chairs,  sofas,  andirons,  etc. ;  also  two  portraits 
by  Charles  Wilson  Peale  (dated  1792)  of  Brig.-Gen.  John 
Cropper  (Virginia)  and  Mrs.  Catherine  B.  Cropper;  2.  *The 
Star-Spangled  Banner,  being  the  Garrison  flag  of  Ft.  Mc- 
Henry,  Baltimore,  during  the  bombardment  of  the  Fort 
by  the  British,  Sept.  13-14,  1814.  Francis  Scott  Key,  detained 
with  the  British  fleet,  had  eagerly  watched  for  this  flag,  and 
when  he  saw  it  still  waving  on  the  morning  of  the  14th,  he 
was  inspired  to  write,  "The  Star-Spangled  Banner" ;  3.  Mexi- 
can onyx  side-board  presented  to  Grant  by  the  citizens  of 
Pueblo,  Mexico ;  4.  Chippewa  Family  Group,  heroic  size, 
being  the  original  plaster  model  by  John  J.  Boyle,  of  a  bronze 
group  now  in  Chicago. 

Rotunda.  Here  were  formerly  exhibited  a  number  of  the 
larger  trophies,  gifts  of  Foreign  Powers,  etc.  These,  ho  ■■ 
have  temporarily  made  way  for  cannon,  mortars,  etc.,  belong- 
ing to  the  World  War  collection.  In  the  center,  dominating 
all  other  exhibits,  is  the  colossal  plaster  statue,  *  Liberty  (19^2 
ft.  high),  made  in  Rome  by  Thomas  Crawford,  and  used 
by  Clark  Mills  in  1868,  for  casting  the  Ibronze  statue  now 
surmounting  the  Dome  of  the  Capitol.  In  doorway  lead- 
ing from  North  Wing  are  two  Colossal  Faience  Vases  from 
Limoges,  France,  made  to  commemorate  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  exhibited  at  Philadelphia,  1876 ;  presented 
by  the  manufacturers,  Haviland  and  Co.,  to  the  United 
States  Government.  Height  7  ft.  8^2  in.,  greatest  circum- 
ference 11    ft.   4  in.     Value  of  pair,  $17,500. 

The  average  visjtor,  especially  if  limited  in  time,  will  probably  visit 
next  the  spacious  W.,  S-.  and  E.  Wings,  opening  directly  from  the 
Rotunda,,  leaving  the  Ranges  and  Pavilions  until  later.  A  more  practical 
procedure,  however,  is  to  return  at  once  to  the  Northern  .Range,  West 
Section,  finish  the  American  Historic  exhibits  and  continue  the  circuit 
of  the  Ranges  from  R.  to  L.,  taking  in  the  Wings  as>  they  are  succes- 
sively   reached.      This    accordingly   is    the    method    here    pursued. 

North  Range,  East  Section:  United  States  History  con- 
tinued: The  most  important  exhibits  in  this  room  are  the 
personal  possessions,  household  furniture,  etc.,  formerly  at 
Mt.  Vernon,  known  as  the  **"Lewis  Collection  of  Wash- 
ington Relics,"  purchased  by  the  United  States  Government 
in  1878  from  the  heirs  of  Mrs.  Laurence  Lewis  (Eleanor 
Parke  Custis).  They  are  contained  in  first  cases  south  of 
main  aisle  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Miscellaneous  Washington  relics, 
including  Bronze  bust  of  Washington,  copied  from  Houdon's 
life-cast  in  1785 ;  *Miniatures  of  George  and  Martha  Wash- 
ington, painted  on  wood  by  Trumbull   (1792-94)  ;  2.  Candle- 


330  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


sticks  and  talbleware  owned  by  Washington;  3.  Miscellaneous 
relics,  including  an  English  ke}^ed  Zither,  presented  by  Wash- 
ington to  Nellie  Custis;  4.  Washington's  writing  case  used 
during  the  War  of  the  Revolution;  his  camp  mess-chest  with 
utensils,  his  treasure  chest,  etc. :  In  lower  compartment :  Tent 
poles  and  tents  used  in  the  Revolutionary  War;  5.  Mirror, 
tables  and  chairs  owned  by  Washington  at  Mt.  Vernon ; 
6.  China,  glassware  and  other  objects  owned  by  Washington 
while  President.  7.  Swords,  canteens,  powder-horns,  etc., 
from  the  Revolution.  &  Swords,  uniforms  and  other  relics 
of  the  U.  S.  Navy  in  the  early  19th  century.  9.  Silver  cen- 
terpiece loaned  by  the  Aztec  Club  of  1867. 

Second  South  Row  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Silverware,  silhou- 
ettes and  pergonal  ornaments  of  the  early  19th  century.  2.  Gus- 
iavus  Vasa  Fox  Collection  of  works  illustrating  Russian  life 
and  history.  Mr.  Fox  was  sent  to  Russia  in  1866,  as  special 
Minister  to  congratulate  the  Emperor  on  his  escape  from 
assassination.  3.  The  Gansevoort  Collection  of  swords,  uni- 
forms, portraits,  etc.,  from  the  Revolutionary  and  Civil  Wars. 
4.  Swords,  pistols,  silverware,  etc.,  period  of  the  War  of 
1812.  5.  Lewis  Collection  continued :  Chairs  owned  by  Wash- 
ington at  Mt.  Vernon,  including  easy  chair  used  by  him  in 
his  bedroom  shortly  before  death.  6.  Mirror  presented  by 
Washington  to  his  wife  in  1795;  panel  from  the  Washington 
coach,  etc.  7.  Military  Collection  of  Maj.  Gen.  John  R. 
Brooke,  including  presentation  and  service  swords,  uniform 
and  insignia.  8.  Swords  and  other  relics  of  Gen.  Henry 
W.  Lawton.  9.  Swords  and  other  relics  of  Jose  Antonio 
Paez ;  sword  carried  by  Simon  Bolivar.  10.  Medals  and 
decorations  presented  to  George  F.  Barker,  the  physicist. 

Third  South  Row :  Cases  1-4.  Old  English  Blue  china 
plates,  etc.,  decorated  with  early  views  of  New  York  City: 
The  Battery;  Old  Park  Theater;  the  Great  Fire;  Plates  with 
scenes  from  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin;  China  forming  part  of 
dinner  services  used  during  the  administrations  of  Madison, 
Monroe,  Lincoln,  Grant  and  Hayes,  etc.  5.  Mrs.  F.  W. 
Dickens  Collection  of  china  and  porcelain,  English  and 
American  ware,  copper  lustre,  Wedgwood,  Staffordshire,  etc. 
6.  Oild  china  continued.  7.  Dinner  service  of  Lowestoft,  a 
ware  generally  used  in  American  homes  as  the  best  china 
on    special   occasions    (1 775-1825). 

West  Wall:  The  Wall  Cases  contain:  (S.  to  N.)  :  1-3. 
Official  costumes  of  William  L.  Dayton  and  of  Major  John 
Biglow  as  American  Ministers  to  the  Court  of  Napoleon  III ; 
also  of  iSidney  Mason  (1829)  when  American  Consul  at  Porto 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  331 

Rico.  4.  Collection  of  National  American  Suffrage  Asso- 
ciation: Portraits  of  Dr.  Anna  Howard  Shaw,  and  Mrs.  Carrie 
Chapman  Catt;  certified  copy  of  joint  resolution  of  Congress 
extending   right    of    suffrage   to   women. 

North  Wall  Cases  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Woman's  Suffrage 
Collection  continued :  Relics  of  Susan  B.  Anthony.  2-8. 
Exhibit  of  swords,  partly  the  Alfred  S.  Hopkins  Collection, 
and  in  part  lent  by  War  Department.  East  Wall :  Swords 
lent  by   War   Department   continued. 

North  Aisle  Cases  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Mahogany  table  owned 
by  Susan  B.  Anthony  when  writing  the  "Declaration  of  Sen- 
timents" for  women  in  1848 ;  also  inkstand,  purse,  gold  watch, 
etc.  Cases  2-13.  Badges  and  insignia  of  officers  and  enlisted 
men  in  U.  S.  Army,  U.  S.  Navy  and  U.  S.  Marine  Corps ; 
U.  S.  Army  decorations  and  certificates ;  U.  S.  War  Medals 
awarded  'by  individual  states  in  recognition  of  services  during 
War  with  Spain  and  in  World  War;  also  *French  Bronze 
Memorials  commemorating  World  War  events :  Burning  of 
Rheims  Cathedral,  Defense  of  Verdun,  Victory  of  the 
Tanks,  etc. 

On  the  wall  above  are  several  historic  portraits,  including 
Gustavus  Vasa,  King  of  Sweden,  1523-60,  by  Adelaide 
Lcnhuscn;  Gen.  Jose  Antonio  Paez,  First  President  of  Vene- 
zuela, by  John  J.  Peoli ;  Jdhn  Custis  and  Frances  Parks 
Custis ;  Rear- Admiral  George  W.  Melville,  by  Sigismond  de 
Ivanowskl. 

West  Range,  North  Section:  *  American  Historical  Cos- 
tumes :  This  collection  is  due  to  the  efforts  of  Mrs.  Julian- 
James,  with  the  co-operation  of  Mrs.  Stephen  B.  Elkins,  Mrs. 
John  Hay,  Mrs.  Harriet  Lane  Johnston,  Mrs.  Rose  Gouverneur 
Hoes  and  a  number  of  other  ladies.  The  most  interesting 
feature  is  a  series  of  life-size  models  clad  in  dresses  worn 
by  former  mistresses  of  the  White  House.  The.  heads  and 
faces  of  these  lay  figures  were  modeled  in  plaster  by  H.  W . 
Hendley,  of  the  National  Museum,  the  same  face  being  used 
for  all  the  figures,  and  differing  only  in  the  arrangement  of 
the  hair.  All  the  cases  and  exhibits  are  fully  numbered  and 
accompanied  by  explanatory  placards. 

Case  1.  Salmon  pink  silk  dress,  hand-painted,  worn  by 
Mrs.  Washington ;  chair,  tray,  decanter  and  glass  from  Mt. 
Vernon ;  2.  Plum-colored  crepe  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  John 
Adams ;  3.  Yellow  satin  brocade  dress  representing  dress 
worn  by  Mrs.  Dolly  Madison  ;  Blue  silk  dress  worn  by  Mrs. 
Samuel    L.     Gouverneur,    youngest    daughter     of     President 


33*  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Monroe,  and  the  first  bride  of  the  White  House;  4.  White 
net  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  John  Quincy  Adams ;  also  old  gold 
satin  brocade  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  Andrew  Jackson  Donald- 
son; 5.  Blue  velvet  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  Sarah  Angelica 
Van  Buren,  wife  of  the  President's  eldest  son;  6.  Gray 
plush  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  Jane  Irwin  Findlay,  mistress 
of  the  White  House  under  William  Henry  Harrison ;  White 
gauze  dress,  vividly  embroidered,  worn  by  Mrs.  Tyler  when 
presented  at  the  Court  of  Louis  Phillippe;  7.  Blue  brocade 
satin  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  James  K.  Polk ;  Green  silk  grena- 
dine worn  by  Miss  Betty  Taylor,  the  President's  daughter ; 
8.  Lavender  silk  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  Fillmore ;  Black  tulle 
dress  worn  by  Mrs.  Franklin  Pierce;  9.  White  moire  antique 
silk  dress  worn,  on  the  occasion  of  her  marriage,  by  Mrs. 
Harriet  Lane  Johnston;  (Un-numbered  Case)  Dress  worn 
by  wife  of  President  Lincoln.  10.  White  silver  brocade  dress 
worn  by  Mrs.  Ulysses  S.  Grant.  11.  Dresses  worn  by  Mrs. 
Rutherford  B.  Hayes  and  Mrs.  James  A.  Garfield.  12.  Silk 
brocade  dress,  pale  green  with  American  Beauty  roses,  worn 
by  Mrs.  Grover  'Cleveland ;  also  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  Mary 
Arthur  McElroy,  sister  of  President  Arthur.  13.  Plum-col- 
ored brocade  worn  by  Mrs.  Benjamin  Harrison;  also  cream- 
white  satin  dress  worn  by  Mrs.  McKinley;  14.  Dress  worn 
by  Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt ;  also  white  chiffon  dress,  em- 
broidered in  the  Philippine  Islands,  and  worn  by  Mrs.  William 
H.  Taft.  This,  like  several  of  the  other  dresses,  was  worn 
at  the  Inaugural  Ball.  15.  Dresses  worn  by  the  first  and 
second   wives   of  ex-President   Woodrow  Wilson. 

In  the  bewildering  profusion  of  other  exhibits,  the  visitor 
should  not  fail  to  note  the  following:  Case  21,  No.  6.  Irish 
Valenciennes  lace  collar,  made  by  the  novelist,  Maria  Edge- 
worth  ;  No.  9.  Point  d'Argentine  lace  from  a  collar  once 
belonging  to  the  Empress  Eugenie ;  Case  34,  No.  2.  Wedding 
dress  of  Mrs.  Julia  Ward  Howe ;  Case  47.  Breeches  and 
riding  boots,  waistcoat  and  linen  shirt  worn  by  Thomas 
Jefferson ;  Case  48.  Uniform  worn  by  General  Washington 
when  he  resigned  his  commission  as  Commander-in-Chief  of 
the  Continental  Army;  Case  56.  Two  costumes  worn  by  Char- 
lotte Cushman  in  Henry  VIII. 

Northwest  Pavilion:  This  room,  entered  from  the  West 
Range,  contains  three  special  collections :  1.  Musical  Instru- 
ments of  the  world,  arranged  in  the  four  series  of  wall  cases ; 
2.  Numismatics,  arranged  in  table-cases ;  3.  Philately,  a  general 
collection  of  postage  stamps  now  valued  at,  approximately, 
$250,000;  and  especially  strong  in  United  States  stamps.     It 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  333 

has  recently  been  augmented  by  the  valuable  private  collection 
of  the  late  David  W.  Cromwell,  of  New  York. 

The  stamp  collection  is  in  charge  of  Mr.  J.  B.  Leavy, 
whose  office  is  in  the  Historical  Department's  room,  in  the 
West  Range. 

This  room  also  contains  the  Robert  Heivett  Collection 
of  Medallic  Lincolniana ;  and  the  Thomas  Kelly  Boggs  Col- 
lection of  decorations,  medals  and  badges. 

Above  the  wall  cases  are  arranged  a  miscellaneous  series 
of  bronze  busts,  48  in  number,  including  Scientists,  Judges, 
Presidents,  and  State  Governors. 

West  Wing:  This  wing,  formerly  devoted  to  Ethnology, 
is  at  present  in  a  transition  state,  and  still  contains  at  W. 
end  a  few  Chinese  exhibits ;  while  at  E.  end  considerable 
space  has  been  usurped  by  an  overflow  from  the  Rotunda 
of   the  World  War   collection. 

The    chief    Technoilogical    exhibits    include:      (N.    Wall) 

1.  Model  showing  occurrence  and  mining  of  Tin ;  2.  Model 
showing  the  mining  of  deep  gold  placers  in  frozen  ground, 
near  Fairbanks,  Alaska.  3.  Exhibits  showing  the  various 
methods  oif  mining  gold. 

Central   Exhibits.     1.    Model  of  Charcoal   Blast  Furnace. 

2.  Specimens  of  copper  ore,  showing  typical  examples  of 
native  copper.  3.  Large  model  of  Iron  Mine,  showing  ex- 
posed sections   of    earth's   strata. 

South  Wall:  1.  Model  of  Copper  Mine  of  Utah  Copper 
Co.,  Bingham  Canyon,  Utah  (a  mountain  of  copper  ore  %  mi. 
high,  which  in  ten  years  has  produced  enough  copper  to 
stretch  a  telegraph  wlire  500  times  around  the  earth). 
2.  Model  of  Salt  Creek  Oil  Fields,  showing  both  surface  and 
underground   conditions. 

West  Range,  South  Section :  Mineral  Technology,  con- 
tinued: The  'Story  of  White  Lead,  showing  the  world's 
supply  by  countries,  and  some  of  its  industrial  uses :  Zinc, 
its  oxides  and  industrial  uses  ;  Manufacture  of  Glass  ;  Exhibit 
of  Natural  Ingredients  for  making  Glass;  Examples  of  the 
first  successful  production  of  optical  glass  in  Amer'ca ; 
Model  of  Regenerative  Glass  Melting  Furnace  (Macbeth- 
Evans  Glass  Co.,  Pittslburgh)  ;  Exhibits  of  Natural  and  Arti- 
ficial Abrasives. 

Southwest  Pavilion:  Exhibits  of  Coal,  Coke,  etc.;  ♦Min- 
iature Colliery  and  Coke  Plant :  Platform  exhibit  30  x  44  ft, 
gift  of  the  Consolidation  Coal  Co.,  Fairmont,  W.  Va.    This  is 


334  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

an  exact  reproduction  of  the  company's  property,  including 
mines,  railway  tracks  and  yard,  coke  furnace,  etc.  The  ma- 
chinery operates  for  three  minutes  every  quarter  hour. 

South  Range,  West  Section:  Mineral  Technology,  con- 
tinued. West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  i.  Mica,  its  occurrence  and 
trade  values.  2  and  3.  Asbestos,  its  occurrence  and  uses. 
South  Wall :  1.  American.  Clay  Products ;  ornamental  pottery 
showing  technique  of  clay  working.  2.  Model  of  Sulphur 
Mine,  showing  the  Frasch  Method.  3.  Soda  Manufacturing 
Plant,  representing  the  source  and  extraction  o>f  raw  materi- 
als, salt,  limestone  and  ammonia,  and  their  treatment  in  manu- 
facturing caustic  soda,  soda  ash  and  baking  soda.  4.  Natural 
Gas  production  transmission,  service  and  conservation.  East 
Wall:  1.  Petrol eum  Technology:  Model  showing  occurrence 
extraction,      transportation      and      refining      of      crude       oil. 

2.  American  Dyes.  3.  Technology  of  Asphalt:  Specimens 
showing  physical  properties  of  natural  asphalt  and  their  appli- 
cation in  use.  North  Wall:  1.  Asphalt  continued.  2.  Limes, 
'Concretes  and  Plasters. 

Central  Exhibits  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  (R.)  Model  showing 
occurrence  and  mining  of  Salt,  and  preparation  for  commer- 
cial use.  Gift  of  Worcester  Salt  Co.  Machinery  operates 
every  15  minutes.  2.  (L.)  Model  showing  Portland  cement 
manufacturing  in  Lehigh  District  of  East  Pennsylvania;  con- 
structed   in    co-operation   with   Atlas     Portland    Cement     Co. 

3.  (R.)  Model  of  Lime  Manufacturing  Plant,  1/48  natural 
size.      Gift   of    the    Charles    Warner    Co.,     Wilmington,    Del. 

4.  (L.)  Model,  1-48  actual  size,  showing  method  of  mining 
gypsum  and  its  treatment  preparatory  to  manufacturng  it 
into  piaster :  Constructed  in  co-operation  with  the  U.  S. 
Gypsum  Co.  5.  (R.)  *Model  of  Trinidad  Pitch  Lake,  gift 
of  the  Barber  Asphalt  Pavinig  Co.;  6.  (L.)  Idealized  Indus- 
trial 'Site,  illustrating  the  close  relation  among  chemical  indus- 
tries. The  intermediate  plant  forms  the  connecting  link 
between  the  products  of  sulphur,  coal,  air,  salt,  etc.,  and 
medicines,  flavors,  perfumes,  dyes,  war-gasses  and  explosives. 

South  Wing:  Flail  of  Textiles.  A.  Cotton:  Central 
Aisle,  W.  side  (first  four  cases)  :  a.  Manufacture  of  cotton 
thread ;  West  Wall  cases :  b.  Cotton  ginning ;  c.  Cotton  spin- 
ning; d.  Cotton  wash  fabrics;  e.  Cotton  flannels;  f.  Hand- 
block  painted  chintz ;  ^Shakespeare  Cretonne,  the  design  con- 
taining 69  English  flowers  mentioned  in  Shakespeare's  plays 
and  poems ;  g.  Roll  printed  cotton  draperies. 

B.  Wool  Textiles :  Central  Aisle,  W.  side  (5th  case  et 
seq.)  ;  a.  The  crude  wool;  h.  Carding  and  spinning;  c.  Manu- 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  335 

facture  of  worsted  yarn ;  d.  Woolen  dress  goods ;  cashmere, 
batiste,  voile,  challie,  etc. ;  e.  Dress  Goods,  continued:  prunella, 
serge,  taffeta,  ratine;  f.  Shetland,  chevioit,  zibeline,  chinchilla, 
g.  United  States  Flag  made  of  Panama  cloth,  h.  Steps  in 
production  of  carded  woolen  fabrics ;  i.  Specimens  of  carded 
woolen  fabrics;  j.  Spray  printing;  Fabrics  decorated  with 
the  airbrush ;  k.  Fabrics  decorated  by  roller  printing ;  1. 
Tying    and    dyeing;    m.     Wax-resist    dyeing;    Batik    work. 

C.  Silk  Textiles :  Central  Aisle,  E.  side  cases :  a.  Life 
history  of  the  silk  worm;  b.  Sericulture  as  practiced  in  Japan; 
c.  Raw  silk;  d.  Spun  silk,  showing  the  manufacture  of  thread 
from  waste  silk;  e.  Cartridge  cloth  (i.  e.  spun-silk  fabrics 
used  for  bags  to  hold  charge  of  smokeless  powder  for  large 
guns);  f.  Piece-dyed  silk  stuffs;  g.  Dress  and  lining  satins; 
h.  Skein-dyed  silks,  Scotch  plaids ;  i.  Warp  printing  (the 
pattern  is  printed  on  the  warp  threads,  before  weaving)  ; 
j.  and  following  cases :  Taffeta  silks,  novelty  silks,  necktie 
silks,  veilings,  etc. 

D.  East  Wall  cases  (temporary  installation,  1922)  ;  Col- 
lection of  looms  and  household  implements  for  spinning,  reel- 
ing and  winding;  carding  machines,  etc. 

South  Range,  Eastern  Section:  Textiles,  continued.  Cen- 
tral Cases :  silk  pile  fabrics  for  wraps,  trimmings  and  uphol- 
stery ;  textile  fur  fabrics ;  crepe-finish  cotton  cloth ;  drapery 
and  upholstery  fabrics ;  cotton  pile  fabrics ;  crepe  dress  goods 
(all  cotton,  cotton  and  silk,  all  wool).  These  exhibits  are 
mainly  presented  by  American  manufacturers,  whose  names 
are  on  the  cases. 

Wall  Cases  :  Japanese  silk  fabrics ;  moire  silks,  etc. ;  note 
especially  case  at  S.  E.  cor. :  *Handicraft  work  of  the  Blind ; 
also  E.  Wall  Case :  *Chinese  embroideries,  including  brocaded 
robe  made  for  the  Emperor  Hsin  Fung,  and  taken  from  the 
Yuen-Ming-Yuen,  when  that  Palace  was  destroyed  by  fire  in 
i860,  by  order  of  the  English  and  French  allies. 

Southeast  Pavilion :  Wood  Technology :  The  S.  and  E. 
Walls  are  devoted  to  specimens  of  industrial  woods  in  form 
of  polished  slabs  and  planks.  Around  the  balcony  railing  are 
a  series  of  pictures  in  color  showing :  A.  Scenes  in  Govern- 
ment Forest  Reservations ;  B.  Typical  stages  in  Lumbering ; 
C.    Forest  Industries. 

The  Central  Exhibits  include:  1.  Large  model,  16x16 
ft.,  showing  how  the  National  Forests  are  administered  and 
used ;  the  model  shows  bridges,  forest  .  homestead,  grazing 
cattle,  hydro'-electric  power  development,  summer  resorts,  etc. 


336  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

2.  Model  showing  Turpentine  Orcharding  and  manufacture 
of  gum  spirits  (Southern  Yelilow  Pine  region).  3-7.  Cases 
showing  progressive  steps  in  the  manufacture  of  the  golf 
driver,  electric  sadiron  handle,  cedar  cigar  box,  baseball  bat, 
tennis  racquet,  bowling  ball  and  tenpin.  8.  Large  model  show- 
ing a  typical  lumber  treating  process.  9*  Large  section  of 
heavy  oak  beam  taken  from  roof  of  Westminster  Hall  during 
recent   repairs. 

The  roof  was  built  under  the  orders  of  Richard  II  in  1399,  and  the 
oak  timbers  used  (allowing  for  age  of  tree)  must  be  at  least  1000  years 
old.  The  section,  presented  to  the  Museum  by  the  British  Government 
exemplifies  the  durability  of  British  oak,  and  the  beauty  of  the  old 
craftsman's  work. 

East  Range,  South  Section :  Contains  exhibits  illustrat- 
ing the  development  of  scientific  and  industrial  instruments : 
Sextants  and  compasses ;  calculating  machines ;  telescopes  and 
microscopes ;  galvanometers ;  standards  of  weights  and 
measures ;  typewriting  machines ;  telegraph  and  telephone 
instruments ;   gramophones ;  clocks,  watches,  etc. 

East  Wing:  Exhibits  showing  the  Evolution  of  the  Rail- 
way Track;  development  of  the  bicycle;  early  specimens  of 
the  gasoline  automobile,  etc. 

The  Central  Exhibits  include :  Cylinder  of  the  Horn- 
blower  engine,  the  first  engine  on  the  western  continent,  im- 
ported from  England  in  1753;  the  "Stourbridge  Lion,"  built 
in  1828  for  the  D.  &  H.  Canal  Co.  It  was  the  first  locomo- 
tive in  the  western  hemisphere  to  run  upon  a  railway  built 
for  traffic.  A  placard  records  that  on  Aug.  18th,  1829,  it 
was  first  run  on  a  section  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal 
Company's  road  "with  good  speed,  around  a  curve  and  across 
the  bridge  and  up  the  railroad  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half." 
Diagonally  opposite  stands  another  locomotive,  the  John  Bull, 
built  in  183 1  by  John  Stevenson,  Newcastle-on-Tyne.  It  is 
the  oldest  complete  locomotive  now  existing  in   America. 

Northeast  Pavilion:  This  Hall,  reached  from  E.  Wing, 
is  devoted  chiefly  to  a  collection  of  armor  and  arms;  rifles, 
revolvers,  muskets,  etc. 

East  Range,  North  Section:  History  of  Water  Trans- 
portation :  "Water  craft  of  the  world,  from  the  raft  to  the 
full-rigo-ed  ship."  Above  the  S.  entrance  door  are  four 
bronze  busts  of  pioneers  among  American  shipbuilders :  a. 
John  Stevens,  builder  of  the  first  twin-screwed  steamboat; 
b.  John  Ericsson,  inventor  of  the  Monitor;  c.  Robert  Fulton, 
builder  of  the  Clermont;  d.  Charles  H.  Haswell,  First  Engi- 
neer-in-Chief,  U.  S.  N. 


OLD  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  337 

The  visitor's  eye  is  first  caught  by  the  important  collection 
of  Indian  Canoes  suspended  from  the  ceiling  and  walls, 
including  a  *Giant  Dugout  War  Canoe,  Vancouver  Islands 
(1876);  a  three-seat  skin  boat  or  Bidarka,  Aleutian  Islands 
(1885)  ;  and  a  two-seated  Bidarka  from  Unalaska   (1889). 

In  the  Central  Cases  (W.  side)  are  models  of  various 
steamships  and  sailing  vessels,  including  (W.  side)  steamship 
Philadelphia  (1889);  Full-rigged  Merchant  Ship;  model  of 
Viking  Ship;  (E.  side)  Cutter  Yacht,  English  type  (1884)  ; 
Hendrik  Hudson's  Half  Moon;  Columbus'  Santa  Maria, 
Susan  Constant,  of  the  Jamestown  Colony;  steamship  Savan- 
nah (1819),  the  first  steamship  to  cross  the  Atlantic  (Savan- 
nah to  Liverpool,  May  22d-June  20th)  ;  steamship  R.  F. 
Stockton  (1839),  first  vessel  with  screw  propeller  and  iron 
hull  to  cross  the  Atlantic  (machinery  designed  by  Ericsson)  ; 
models   of   the  Monitor   and   of   the  Mcrrimac,   etc. 

Wall  Cases :  These  contain  a  bewildering  collection  of 
models  of  ancient  and  modern  water  craft  of  both  hemi- 
spheres. To  the  American  the  most  interesting  part  of  the 
display  is  in  the  Western  Wall  Cases  (acquired  chiefly 
through  the  U.  S.  Fish  Commission).  It  consists  of  repro- 
ductions, many  of  them  of  painstaking  accuracy,  of  American 
sailing  vessels,  fish  schooners,  lobster  trawlers,  etc.  (over  75 
specimens),  showing  the  history  of  the  American  sailing 
vessel ;  while  in  most  cases  the  name  of  the  particular  boat 
from  which  the  model  was  made  and  some  details  of  her 
histor-  are  given. 

North  Range,  East  Section:  This  hall  is  occupied  mainly 
by  collections  of  hand-made  laces  and  "Arts  of  the  Thread" 
(26  cases)  ;  brocades  and  various  embroideries,  fancy  work- 
bags,  etc.  (in  wall  cases)  ;  fans  (four  table-cases)  ;  also  a  loan 
exhibit  of  Limoges  enamels  (table-cases  in  S.  W.  cor.).  A 
recent  installment  is  a  selection  of  rare  Oriental  rugs,  from 
the  collection  of   "A    Connoisseur  of   Washington." 

Gallery  Floor:  The  Galleries  in  this  Museum  encircle 
the  four  Pavilions  and  the  W.,  S.  and  E.  Wings,  and  are  so 
connected  that  they  may  all  be  seen  consecutively  without 
descending  to  the  ground  floor,  provided  the  visitor  begins 
with  either  the  N.  E.  or  N.  W.  Pavilion.  The  stairways  are 
reached  from  the  Rotunda  at  the  corners  of  the  E.  and  W. 
Wings. 

Northwest  Pavilion  Gallery:  The  History  and  evolution 
of  Photography:  1.  First  permanent  heliograph  by  "asphalt 
process,"  made  by  Joseph  N.  Niepce,  1824;  2.  The  Daguerre- 
otype, invented  by  N.  J.  M.  Daguerre,  1839;  3.  Calotype,  in- 


338  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

vented  by  Henry  Fox   Talbot    (considered  one  of   the  most 
important  steps  in  photography,  as  it  includes  the  photographic 
negative)  ;  4.  The  Stereoscope  and  Stereoscopic  photographs. 
Note  *Stereoscopic  portraits  of  Maj.-Gens.  W.  T.   Sherman, 
James  B.  McPherson,  Franz  Siegel,  N.  P.  Banks,  A.  E.  Burn- 
side,  etc.;  5.  Ambrotype;  6.  The  plain  Silver  Print  (Crystal- 
otype)  ;   7.  The  Albumen   Silver   Print    (wet  collodion  nega- 
tive) ;  8.  Carbon  Printing;  9.  Platinotype,  invented  1873;   10. 
Development   of   the   Photographic   camera.     This   collection 
comprises   a   series  of    some  250  pieces    of    apparatus    dating 
from  the  introduction  of  Frederick  Scott  Archer's  Collodion 
wet-plate  process,   1852,  and  includes   most  of  the  important 
improvements  up  to -the  present  time;    11.     Motion   Pictures, 
represented  'by  a  large  number  of  prints   and  some  apparatus 
used  by  Muybridge,   the  pioneer  in  motion  picture  art :   also 
a  series  of  Jenkins  early  motion  picture  models ;    12.    Collec- 
tion of  pictorial  photographic  specimens  by  H.  P.  Robinson, 
Frederick   Hollyer,    etc.;    13.    Printing   by    development;    rep- 
resenting  various    "gas-light    papers";    14.      Photography     in 
Astronomical    work;      15.      X-Ray     Photography;     16.      The 
Photomicrograph. 

West  Wing  Gallery:  Collections  illustrative  of  the 
Rites  and  Development  of  the  Great  Historic  Religions : 
Judaism,  Buddhism,  Brahmanism,  Shintoism  and  the  Rus- 
sian and  Roman  Catholic  Churches. 

Southwest  Pavilion  Gallery:  Industrial  Arts:  Feathers 
and  f eather-work ;  sealing  wax  and  glues;  brushes  and  bris- 
tles ;  leather  and  leather-work,  including  gloves  and  shoes ; 
feather-bone  and  whale-bone ;  carved  horn,  including  moun- 
tain sheep  and  rhinoceros  horn;  tortoise  shell;  mother-of- 
pearl  work,  including  buttons ;  carved  teeth  and  tusks,  includ- 
ing alligator,  walrus  and  mammoth  ivory. 

South  Wing  Gallery:  Industrial  Arts  continued:  Exhi- 
bition illustrating  the  manufacture  of  felt  hats;  exhibition  of 
various  textile  materials  and  fabrics,  including  raffia,  palm 
fibre,  pineapple  fibre  and  banana  fibre;  collection  of  straw 
and  other  braids;  exhibition  of  Japanese  textiles,  cotton  cord 
and  rope;  more  textiles,  including  bark-cloth,  crude  bast, 
jute,  and  several  cases  of  hemp,  including  Japanese,  Span^h, 
Italian  and  native  Kentucky  species. 


THE   FREER   GALLERY  339 

Northeast  Pavilion  Gallery:  Ceramics:  Aboriginal  Pot- 
tery, Native  tribes  of  North  America ;  Spanish-American  and 
Portuguese-American  Wares ;  Pottery  and  porcelain  of  the 
United  States;  English  pottery  and  porcelain,  including 
Wedgewood ;  French  pottery  and  porcelain,  including  Sevres ; 
Holland  Old  Blue  and  Polychrome,  Delft  and  Amstel;  Span- 
ish and  Hispano-muresque  pottery ;  *African  ceramic  work 
(Moorish);  Siamese  brass  repousse  and  enamel;  Korean 
mortuary  pottery  and  ceremonial  vessels  from  graves  (nth 
Century  A.  D.  and  earlier)  ;  Japanese  pottery  and  porcelain, 
bronzes  and  lacquer  ware;  Silver  and  gilt  work  from  the 
Philippine  Islands. 

V.  The  Smithsonian  Institution — The  Freer  Gallery 

The  "Freer  Gallery  of  Art  (PL  I— B-4),  at  the  S.  W. 
cor.  of  the  Smithsonian  Grounds,  is,  together  with  the  collec- 
tion which  it  houses,  the  gift  of  Charles  L.  Freer  of  Detroit, 
Mich.,  who  during  his  lifetime  generously  erected  the  Gallery 
at  a  cost  of  $1,200,000,  and  left  by  will  an  endowment  of  some 
$2,000,000,  the  income  of  which  provides  a  fund  for  purchases 
of  works  by  American  and  Oriental  artists.  Mr.  Freer  died 
Sept.  25,  1919,  and  the  entire  Freer  Collection  was  received  in 
November  of  the  following  year.  Since  it  was  found  that 
visitors  seriously  interrupted  the  task  of  unpacking  and  dis- 
tributing the  exhibits,  the  Freer  Building  has  been  closed 
to  visitors  during  the  work  of  installation. 

The  Freer  Building,  designed  by  Charles  A.  Piatt,  is 
a  rectangular  structure  of  gray  Milford  (Mass.)  granite,  on 
the  Italian  Renaissance  order,  measuring  228  ft.  in  length  by 
185  ft.  in  depth,  and  consisting  of  a  high  basement  surmounted 
by  a  single  main  story,  divided  into  19  exhibition  halls  of 
various  dimensions,  surrounding  a  central  open  court  approxi- 
mately 60  ft.  square,  exclusive  of  surrounding  loggias.  This 
court  is  of  Tennessee  marble.  The  basement  contains  in  ad- 
dition to  the  Administrative  Offices,  an  Auditorium,  a  series 
of  study  rooms  and  ample  storage  space  for  such  portions  of 
the  collection  as  will  not  be  placed  on  public  view.  Through- 
out the  main  story,  on  which  the  works  of  art  will  be 
exhibited,  the  floors',  of  both  galleries  and  corridors  are 
entirely  of  marble  and  tarazzo.  The  Curator  is  Mr.  J.  E. 
Lodge,  of  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  Boston. 

History.  In  Dec.  1904  Mr.  Freer  offered  to  bequeath  or  make 
present  conveyance  of  his  collection,  either  to  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment or  to  the  Smithsonian,  under  certain  specified  conditions.  The 
story  goes  that   Prsident   Roosevelt,  learning   indirectly  of    this   generous 


340  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

offer,  insisted  upon  having  it  looked  into,  and  thus  saved  to  the   Nation 
a  unique  collection  which  seemed  then  on  the  point  of   being  lost. 

The  conditions  under  which  Mr.  Freer's  offer  was  finally  accepted 
by  the  Board  of  Regents,  Jan.  24,  1906,  were  in  part  as  follows: 
That  the  collections  and  building  should  always  bear  the  donor's 
name  "in  some  modest  and  appropriate  form";  that  no  addition  or 
deduction  should'  be  made  after  the  donor's  death,  and  nothing  else 
ever  be  exhibited  with  these  collections  or  in  the  same  building,  and 
no  charge  ever  made  for  admission;  that  the  building  its.elf  should  be 
arranged  with  special  regard  for  the  convenience  of  students,  and  a 
suitable  space  provided,  in  which  the  famous  Peacock  Room,  made  by 
Whistler  for  the  shipbuilder  Leyland,  should  be  re-erected  complete; 
that  the  collection  should  remain'  in  Mr.  Freer's  possession  during  life, 
and  subsequently  in  possession  of  his  executors  until  completion  of  the 
building.  Mr.  Freer  afterwards  modified  some  of  these  conditions, 
and  decided  upon  an.  early  erection  of  the  building  and  transfer  of  the 
collection  to  Washington.  War  conditions,  however,  delayed  the  work, 
and  he  died  before  seeing  his  project  fully  realized. 

The  principal  entrance  to  the  Freer  Gallery  is  through  a 
loggia  and  vestibule  opening  upon  a  large  square  hall. 
On  R.  and  L.  of  entrance,  are  coat  rooms.  The  corridor 
which  divides  this  hall  from  the  inner  open-air  court  leads 
on  R.  to  four  rooms  devoted  to  paintings  ,by  American  artists 
three  being  assigned  respectively  to  works  by  Thomas  W. 
Dewing,  Divight  W.  Try  on  and  Abbott  H.  Thayer,  while  the 
fourth  contains  a  miscellaneous  collection.  The  galleries  on 
the  further  side  of  the  building,  five  in  number,  are  devoted 
wholly  to  the  works  of  Whistler,  the  one  at  the  extreme  left 
corner  containing  the  famous  Peacock  Room.  All  the  re- 
maining galleries  on  the  exhibition  floor  are  devoted  to  works 
of  Oriental  Art,  the  Chinese,  Persian  and  Lydian  exhibits 
being  assigned  to  the  rooms  on  the  L.  side,  and  the  Japanese 
on  the  R.  side  of  the  central  court. 

Each  of  the  exhibition  galleries  has  its  own  separate 
skylight,  and  all  these  rooms  have  purposely  been  made 
small  in  order  that  the  light  shall  fall  upon  the  walls  at  a 
proper  angle.  Equally  careful  attention  has  been  given  to 
regulation  of  temperature.  The  Freer  collection  contains  many 
Oriental  objects  which  might  suffer  injury  from  too  dry  an 
atmosphere.  Accordingly,  devices  have  been  installed  to 
furnish  the  requisite  moisture  whenever  the  air  becomes  too 
dry. 

Since  it  is  impossible,  at  the  present  stage  of  installation 
(1922),  to  give  even  approximately  a  summary  of  the  con- 
tents of  the  separate  rooms,  the  following  general  statement 
of  the  scope  of  the  Freer  Collection  is  here  given  for  informa- 
tion of  visitors,  in  the  event  of  the  unforeseen  early  opening 
of  the  Museum. 


THE   FREER   GALLERY  341 

American  Paintings,  Drawings,  etc.  Thomas  Wilmcr  Dewing  (1851-  ): 
1.  Portrait  of  a  Young  Girl;  2.  The  Piano;  3.  The  Blue  Dress; 
4.  After  Sunset;  5.  The  Carnation;  6.  Early  Portrait  of  the  Artist's 
Daughter;  7.  Before  Sunrise:  8.  Portrait  in  Bhie;  9.  Study  of  a  Woman 
Seated;  10.  Gir]  with  Lute;  11.  Mandolin:  12.  La  Comedienne;  13.  The 
Mirror;  14.  Yellow  Tulips;  15.  Lady  Playing  the  Violoncello;  16.  The 
Garland;  17.  In  White;  18.  The  Lute;  19.  The  Four  Sylvan  Sounds 
(painted  on  wooden  screens);  20-22.  Portraits,  including  one  of  -the 
artist;  also  9  pastels  and  3  silver  points.  Childe  Hassam  (1859-  ), 
The  Chinese  Merchants;  Winslow  Homer  (1836- 19 10),  Early  Evening; 
also  3  water  colors-  Gari  Melchers  (i860-  ),  Portrait  of  President 
Roosevelt;  John  S.  Sargent  (1856-  ):  1.  Landscape  with  Goats;  2.  The 
Weavers;  Joseph  Lindon  Smith  (1863-  ):  1.  Priestess  from  Ankor-Wat, 
Cambodia;  2.  Seated  Buddha,  from  monument  of  Boro-Boedor,  Java; 
Abbott  II.  Thayer  (1849-1921):  1.  Head;  2.  The  Virgin;  3.  Diana;  4. 
Sketch  of  Cornish  Head'ands;  5.  Capri;  6.  Monadnock  in  Winter;  7. 
Monadnock  No.  2;  8.  Winged  Figure;  9-1 1.  Three  Portraits,  including 
artist's  Fun  and  eldest  daughter;  Dvright  IV.  Tryon  (1849-  ) :  I.  A 
Lighted  Village-  2.  Moonlight;  3.  The  Rising  Moon — Autumn;  4.  Sea — 
Sunset;  5.  Twilight — Early  Spring;  6.  Springtime;  7.  Daybreak — May; 
8.  Sunrise — April;  9.  New  England  Hills;  10.  Twilight — May;  11. 
Evening  Star;  12.  Morning;  13.  Sea — Night;  14.  Sea — Morning;  15. 
Springtime;  16.  Summer;  17.  Autumn;  18.  Winter;  19.  Dawn;  20.  The 
Sea — Evening;     21.     April     Morning;     22.     October;    23.     Autumn    Day; 

24.  Night;  25.  Autumn  Morning;  26.  Twilight — Autumn;  27.  Evening — 
September;  28.  Twilight — November;  29.  Autumn  Evening;  30.  Morning 
Mist;  also  2  water  colors  and  16  pastels.:  John  Henry  Twachtman 
(1853-1902):    1.   Drying   Sails;   2.    The  Hidden   Pool. 

The  chief  feature,  however,  of  the  American  Art  Collec- 
tion is  comprised  in  the  1200  examples  of  the  work  of  James 
McNeill  Whistler  (1834- 1903),  including  oils,  water  colors, 
etchings  and  lithographs.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  oil 
paintings,  with  a  brief  summary  of  the  other  works. 

Oil  Paintings.  1.  Portrait  Sketch  of  Mr.  Whistler;  2.  Portrait  of 
Major  Whistler;  3.  Portrait  of  F.  R.  Leyland;  4.  Rose  and  Silver — La 
Princesse  du  Pays  de  la  Porcelaine;  5.  Jeune  Ferame  Dite  L'Americaine 
— Arrangement  in  Black  and  White  No.  1;  6.  Nocturne:  Southampton; 
7.  Nocturne:  Blue  and  Silver — Bognor;  8.  Nocturne:  Blue  and  Silver — - 
Batter-ea  Beach;  9.  Nocturne:  Blue  and  Silver — Chelsea  Embankment; 
10.  Symphony  in  Gray — 'Early  Morning,  Thames;  11.  Nocturne:  Opal 
and  Silver;  12.  The  Thames  in  Ice;  13.  Blue  and  Silver — Trouville;  14. 
Variations  in  Pink  and  Gray — Chelsea;  15.  Variations  in  Flesh  Color 
and  Green — The  Balcony;  16.  Harmon v  in  Purple  and  Gold,  No.  2 — 
The  Golden  Screen;  17.  The  Little  Blue'and  Gold  Girl;  18.  Venus  Rising 
from  the  Sea;  19.  Venus;  20.  Symphony  in  Green  and  Violet;  21.  The 
White  Symphony — Three  Girls;  22.  Symphony  in  White  and  Red;  23. 
Variations    in     Blue    and     Green;     24.     Symphony    in     Blue     and     Pink; 

25.  Rose  and  Gold — The  Little  Lady  Sophie  of  Soho;  26.  The 
Little  Red  Glove  (unfinished);  2~.  Rose  and  Brown — La  Cigale; 
28.  An  Orange  Note1 — 'Sweetshop;  29.  A  Note  in  Blue  and 
(pal — 'The  Sun  Cloud;  30.  Vert  et  Or — Le  Raconteur;  31.  Petite 
Mephiste;  32.  Green  and  Gold — The  Great  Sea;  33.  The  Little 
Nurse;  34.  The  Angry  Sea;  35.  The  Summer  Sea;  36.  Blue  and  Silver — 
Boat  Entering  Pourville;  37.  Gray  and  Gold — High  Tide  at  Pourville; 
38.  The  Butcher  Shop;  39.  The  Gray  House;  40.  Purple  and  Gold — 
Phryne,  the  Superb,  Builder  of  Temples;  41.  Chelsea  Shops:  42.  Blue 
and  Gray — Unloading;  43.  The  Sea  and  Sand;  44.  Harmony  in  Brown 
and  Gold— Old   Chelsea  Church;  45.   Blue  and  Green— The  Coal  Shaft; 


342  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

46.  The  White  House;  47.  Wortley — Note  in  Green;  48.  Low  Tide;  49.  A 
N'ote  in  Red;  50.  A  Portrait;  51.  Devonshire  Landscape;  52.  Little 
Green  Cap;  53.  Yellow  and  Blue;  54.  Purple  and  Blue;  55.  Trafalgar 
Square — Chelsea;  56.  Portrait  of  Stevie  Manuel;  57.  Nocturne:  Blue 
and  Gold — 'Valparaiso! ;  58.  The  Little  Faustina  (unfinished) ;  59.  Gray 
and  Silver — The  Life  Boat;  60.  Gold  and  Orange — The  Neighbors;  61. 
The  Little  Red  Note;  62.  The  Sad  Sea — Dieppe;  63.  The  Music  Room. 

Water  Colors,  Pastels,  Drawings,  etc.  The  Whistler  Collection 
includes,  in  addition  to  the  Oil  Paintings,  47  Water  Colors;  40  Pastels; 
117  Drawings  and  Sketches;  three  Wood  Engravings;  683  Etchings 
which  include  several  impressions  of  some  of  the  plates;  194  Lithographs; 
38  Original  Copper  Plates;  and  *The  Peacock  Room,  Whistler's  famous 
creation  for  the  London  residence  df  thej  latd  F.  R.  Leyland,  including 
complete  woodwork  and  all  decorations. 

The  Oriental  Collections,  comprising  the  second  and  far 
larger  portions  of  the  exhibits,  embraces  a  dozen  different 
divisions  of  Eastern  Arts  and  Crafts : 

Babylonian:  Bronze  metal  work,  one  exhibit;  Byzantine:  Crystal,  1; 
manuscripts,  29;  gold  metal  work,  8;  paintings,  etc.j  10:  Cambodian: 
ivory,  6;  bronzes,  4;  Chinese:  furniture,  22;  glass,  14;  jade,  etc.,  503; 
lacquer,  17;  bronze  and  othef  metal  work,  725;  paintings,  1255;  pottery, 
481;  sculpture,  196;  textiles,  183;  Cypriote:  2  exhibits;  Egyptian:  glass, 
1 39 1 ;  pottery,  254;  sculpture.  40;  Greek:  3  exhibits;  Japanese:  lacquer, 
29;  metal  work,  47;  paintings,  804;  pottery,  821;  sculptures,  63  textiles, 
79;  Corean:  metal  work,  197;  pottery,  229;  sculptures,  14;  East  Indian: 
metal  work,  22;  paintings,  139;  pottery,  317;  Palmyran:  1  sculpture; 
Tibetan:   13   paintings. 

VI.   The  Washington  Monument 

The  **JVashington  Monument  (PL  II — D-6),  stands  in  the 
center  of  a  gently  sloping  mound,  a  little  S.  E.  of  the  point 
where  the  central  axes  of  the  Executive  Grounds  and  the  Mall 
would  intersect  at  right  angles.  The  surrounding  area,  com- 
prising about  41  acres,  is  known  officially  as  Washington  Park. 

History.  At  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  in  1783, 
an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Washington  was  authorized  by  the 
Continental  Congress,  and  the  American  Minister  to  France 
was  directed  to  order  it.  The  plan,  however,  was  held  in 
abeyance  through  lack  of  funds.  Nevertheless,  the  present 
site  of  the  Monument  was  designated  for  the  statue  on 
L'Enfant's  plan  of  the  city,  and  approved  by  Washington 
himself.  On  Dec.  24th,  1799,  within  the  week  following 
Washington's  funeral,  Congress  passed  a  resolution  to  the 
effect,  "That  a  marble  monument  be  erected  by  the  United 
States  at  the  City  of  Washington,  and  that  the  family  of 
General  Washington  be  requested  to  permit  his  body  to  be 
deposited  under  it."  In  1800  the  House  of  Representatives 
appropriated  $100,000,  and  again  in  1 801,  $200,000,  for  the 
purpose  of  "creating  a  Mausoleum,"  but  both  bills  were  de- 
feated through   Senate  amendments  and   other  technicalities. 


THE  WASHINGTON  MONUMENT  343 

In  1816  the  scheme  of  removing  Washington's  remains  to 
the  Capitol  was  revived,  but  when  Mr.  Bushrod  Washington, 
then  the  owner  of  Mt.  Vernon,  was  approached  by  the  com- 
mittee in  charge  he  emphatically  refused:  and  when  the 
proposition  was  renewed  in  1832,  to  Mr.  John  Augustine 
Washington,   he  was   equally  definite  in  his   refusal1. 

The  scheme  of  a  National  Tomb  having  been  disposed  of, 
an  organization  was  formed  in  1833,  entitled  "The  Washing- 
ton National  Monument  Society."  Chief  Justice  John  Mar- 
shall was  the  society's  president,  and  George  Watterston, 
the  prime  mover  in  its  formation,  was  Secretary.  Mrs.  James 
Madison,  Mrs.  John  Quincy  Adams  and  Mrs.  Alexander  Ham- 
ilton were  among  those  appointed  to  receive  contributions. 

The  plans  accepted  were  by  Robert  Mills,  for  over  twenty 
years  architect  to  the  Government.  They  included  a  grand 
colonnade  or  Pantheon,  250  ft.  in  diameter  and  100  ft.  high; 
above  the  portico  was  to  be  a  colossal  statue  of  Washington, 
30  ft.  high,  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  six  horses  and  driven  by 
Victory.  The  interior  or  Rotunda  was  to  be  ornamented 
with  statues  of  the  Signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
set  in  niches ;  and  upon  the  wall  above  the  niches  the  prin- 
ciple battles  of  the  Revolution  were  to  be  represented  in  bas- 
relief.  From  the  center  of  the  whole  structure  was  to  arise 
a  marble  shaft  600  ft.  in  height.  With  the  exception  of  this 
shaft,  all  the  features  of  Mills'  plans  were  subsequently 
abandoned. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  monument  was  laid  July  4th,  1848, 
with  Masonic  ceremonies,  in  the  presence  of  the  President 
and  Vice-President  of  the  United  States,  and  both  Houses 
of  Congress.  The  Grand  Master  wore  the  apron  and  used 
the  trowel  with  which  Washington  laid  the  corner-stone  of 
the  Capitol  (pp.  518  and  519).  The  stone  weighed  12  tons,  and 
contained  a  large  zinc-lin,ed  cavity  in  which  were  placed  about 
100  articles,  including  books,  portraits,  maps,  newspapers, 
coins,  medals,  Masonic  records  and  the  architect's  design  for 
the  monument.  The  address  was  delivered  by  Robert  C. 
Winthrop,  then  Speaker  of  the  House. 

In  1854  the  shaft  had  reached  the  height  of  150  ft.  An 
addition  of  four  feet  exhausted  the  Society's  funds.  Congress 
was  appealed  to  for  appropriations ;  but  owing  to  political 
complications  the  monument  remained  at  a  standstill  until  1878. 

When  the  plan  to  complete  the  monument  was  definitely 
revived,  a  committee,  appointed  to  investigate  the  foundations, 
reported  that  they  were  of  insufficient  spread  and  depth  to 
sustain  the  weight  of  the  completed  shaft,  but  expressed  their 


344  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

belief  that  it  was  feasible  to  strengthen  them  without  disturb- 
ing the  superstructure. 

The  task  of  reinforcing  the  foundation  and  completing 
the  monument  was  entrusted  to  Gen.  Thomas  L.  Casey,  Chief 
of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A.  The  work  of  excavating  beneath 
the  monument  was  begun  Jan.  p8th,  1879,  and  the  new  foun- 
dation finished  May  29th,  1880,  at  a  cost  of  $94,474.  The 
building  of  the  monument  was  then  resumed  largely  through 
appropriations  by  Congress.  The  capstone  of  the  pyramid 
was  placed  in  position  Dec.  6th,  1884,  and  the  finished  monu- 
ment was  dedicated  Feb.  21st,  1885,  on  which  occasion  the 
oration  was  delivered  by  the  venerable  Robert  C.  Winthrop, 
who  had  delivered  the  address  at  the  laying  of  the  corner- 
stone 2>7  years  earlier.  The  total  cost  was  $1,187,710.31,  of 
which  only  about  $300,000  was  raised  by  individual  subscrip- 
tions. 

Description.  The  Monument  is  a  shaft,  the  proportions 
of  which  follow  the  ratio  dimensions  of  ancient  Egyptian 
obelisks.  The  taper  of  the  shaft  is  J4  in.  to  the  foot;  the 
base  is  55  sq.  ft. ;  the  height,  measured  from  above  the  door- 
sill,  is  555  ft.  slA  in.  The  walls  are  15  ft.  thick  at  the  base 
and  taper  to  18  in.  at  the  500-foot  elevation,  where  the 
pyramidal  top  begins.  It  is  estimated  that  the  total  number 
of  stones  used  in  building  the  monument  is  approximately 
23,000;  that  "the  weight  of  the  whole  monument  is  slightly 
over  8i,oda  tons,  and  the  mean  pressure  on  the  base  is  5  tons 
to  the  square  foot. 

The  materials  used  in  building  the  monument  are :  for 
the  enlarged  foundation,  solid  blue  rock  forming  a  square 
1265^2  ft,  with  a  depth  of  38  ft.,  and  an  area  of  approxi- 
mately 16,000  sq.  ft. ;  for  the  outer  facing  of  the  walls,  pure 
white  marble  from  Baltimore  Co.,  Maryland ;  the  inside  of 
the  walls  in  the  older  section  (first  10  ft.  above  base)  is  of 
blue  granite,  not  laid  in  courses.  Above  this  point  the  in- 
terior backing  consists  of  regular  courses  of  New  England 
granite,  corresponding  with  the  courses  of  marble  on  the 
outside.  The  pyramidon  forming  the  last  55  ft.  of  the  monu- 
ment is  built  wholly  of  marble.  The  topmost  stone  of  the 
pyramidon,  weighing  3300  pounds,  is  approximately  4^2  ft. 
high,  with  a  3-foot  base  tapering  to  5  in.  in  diameter  at  the 
top,  where  the  aluminum  cap  fits  on.  This  aluminum  cap, 
chosen  because  it  will  not  tarnish,  is  9  in.  in  height  and 
weighs  100  ounces. 

The  monument  is  open  from  8:30  A.  M.  to  4:50  P.  M. 
The  elevator   (free)    starts  at  9  a.  m.,  ascending  every  half 


THE  WASHINGTON   MONUMENT  345 

hour ;  last  trip  4  P.  M.  It  has  a  maximum  capacity  of  35 
passengers,  but  the  rules  allow  only  30.  The  official  time 
of  ascent  to  the  500-foot  level  is  5  minutes.  Usually  it  takes 
slightly  longer.     The  elevator  waits  15  minutes. 

The  ascent  may  also  be  made  by  stairs  (898),  built  be- 
tween the  walls  and  the  elevator  shaft,  and  broken  at  10  ft. 
intervals  by  platforms  situated  alternately  on  E.  and  W. 
The  interior  of  the  shaft  below  the  pyramidon  is  windowless ; 
but  it  is  well  lighted  by  electricity,  enabling  the  visitor  to 
study  the  inscriptions  on  the  various  *Memorial  Stones  built 
into  the  walls.  These  stones,  177  in  number,  have  come 
from  most  diverse  sources ;  including  40  states  and  16  cities ; 
various  foreign  governments;  15  lodges  of  Free  Masons;  13 
of  Odd  Fellows;  7  of  Sons  of  Temperance;  and  numerous 
other  organizations,  some  of  them  long  since  forgotten. 
These  stones  begin  at  the  1st  landing  (30  ft.)  and  end  at  the 
31st  (330  ft.),  or  somewhat  more  than  halfway  to  the  top. 
Few  visitors  care  to  take  this  climb;  but  many,  after  as- 
cending by  elevator,  prefer  to  walk  down.  Accordingly,  the 
following  abbreviated  list  of  the  more  interesting  stones  is 
given  in  inverse  or  descending  order. 

31st  Landing  (330  ft.)  :  Marble  block  inscribed  "Top  of 
Statue  on  Capitol";  26th  Landing  (280  ft.):  Bas-relief  bust 
of  Shakespeare,  with  inscription  "All  that  live  must  die,"  a 
"tribute  of  respect  from  the  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  of  the 
Dramatic  Profession  of  America" ;  From  the  citizens  of  Alex- 
andria, Va.,  "The  descendants  of  the  friends  and  neighbors 
of  Washington" ;  25th  Landing :  Stone  from  Alexandrian 
Library,  Egypt ;  22d  Landing :  Braddock's  Field ;  Battle 
Ground,  Long  Island;  Wales  (note  Wrelsh  inscription);  21st 
Landing :  Kentucky ;  Tennessee  ;  20th  Landing :  Chinese  and 
Japanese  Memorial  Stones,  with  inscriptions;  Minnesota; 
Montana ;  Nebraska ;  Nevada ;  Oregon ;  Wyoming ;  also 
"Cherokee  Nation,  1850" ;  10th  Landing :  Michigan ;  Kansas ; 
18th  Landing:  West  Virginia;  City  of  Richmond,  Va. ; 
17th  Landing:  Switzerland;  Greece;  Siam ;  Brazil;  Turkey; 
16th  Landing:  Pennsylvania;  City  of  Philadelphia;  15th 
Landing :  Vermont ;  Boston ;  Bunker  Hill  Battle  Ground ; 
14th  Landing:  New  York;  12th  Landing:  Otter's  Summit, 
Virginia's  highest  peak;  nth  Landing:  City  of  New  York; 
10th  Landing:  California;  9th  Landing:  Iowa;  8th  Land- 
ing :  Rhode  Island ;  North  Carolina ;  Wisconsin ;  7th  Land- 
ing: Mississippi;  Missouri;  Ohio;  6th  Landing:  Maryland; 
Virginia;  "The  city  of  Washington  to  its  founder";  5th 
Landing:     Connecticut;     Massachusetts;     New     Jersey;     4th 


346  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Landing:  New  Hampshire;  South  Carolina;  3d  Landing: 
Georgia ;  Illinois  ;  Indiana  ;  2d  Landing :  Alabama  ;  Louis- 
iana; 1st  Landing:  Delaware;  Maine;  Stone  presented  by 
George  Watterston,  Sec.  of  The  Washington  National  Manu- 
ment  Society. 

Under  the)  new  plans  of  the  Park  Commission  for  improvement  of 
the  Mall,  not  only  has  the  main  E.  and  W.  axis  been  shifted  southward 
(p.  240)  so  as  to  pass  through  the  center  of  the  Washington  Monument, 
but  plans  have  also  been  made  for  radical  changes  in  the  surrounding 
grounds  of  Washington  Park,  converting  the  present  mound  into  a 
level  plane.  "This  plane,  as  extensive'  as  the  Piazza  in  front  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Rome,  will  be  flanked'  by  elms  carried  on  terraces.  Broad 
marble  steps  on  the  western  side  lead  down  to  a  formal  garden,  enclosed 
by  wooded  terraces;  and  from  this  garden  the(  broad  opening  leads  to  a 
long  level,  tree-bordered,  as  at  Versailles." — Charles  Moore,  "Daniel 
H.  Bumham." 

A  complete  Guide  to  the  Monument,  including  the  me- 
morial stones  and  translations  of  the  foreign  inscriptions,  is 
on  sale  at  the  summit,  price  25c. 

Navy  and  Munitions  Buildings  (PI.  II — B-6),  these  two 
buildings,  demanded  by  the  imperative  need  of  increased  space 
for  the  vast  activities  of  the  World  War,  are  situated  in  the 
grounds  of  Potomac  Park,  fronting  on  the  S.  side  of  B  St., 
and  extending  approximately  from  17th  to  21st  St.  The  two 
buildings  are  similar  in  design  and  construction,  being  three- 
story  concrete-covered  frame  buildings  of  the  so-called  "ten- 
year"  type;  both  consist  of  a  "head  house"  extending  along  the 
street  front,  with  a  series  of  wings  projecting  southward  into 
the  Park.  The  dimensions  of  the  Navy  Department  building 
are:  Head  house,  860  ft.  long,  with  9  wings,  60  ft.  wide  by 
500  ft.  deep ;  while  the  Munitions  Building  of  the  War 
Department  is  slightly  smaller :  Head  house,  784  ft.  long, 
with  only  8  wings  of  same  dimensions  as  the  other  building. 
The  two  structures  are  united  by  a  covered  bridge,  spanning 
19th    St. 

Taken  together  these  buildings  exceed  in  volume  and  floor  space 
any  other  office  building  in  the  world.  The  total  floor  area  is  estimated 
at  more  than  40  acres,  or  approximately  1,800,000  sq.  ft.  A  complete 
circuit  of  the  exterior  walls,  including  all  the  wings,  is  about  4  miles. 
Both  buildings  were  erected  under  a  single  contract  at  a  speed  of  con- 
struction that  established  a  new  record.  The  contract  was  let  Feb.  25, 
19 18;  the  buildings  were  completed  and  occupied  the  first  week  of  the 
following  Oct.  Cost  of  Navy  Building,  $3,292,145;  Munitions  Building, 
$2,926,351. 

The  Navy  Department  Building  now  houses  the  offices 
of  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and,  with  few  exceptions,  all 
the  important  Bureaus  of  the  Department,  the  whole  organiza- 
tion having  moved  down  bodjiy  from  the  old  State,  War  and 


THE  WASHINGTON   MONUMENT  347 

Navy  Building  (p.  126),  where  nothing  of  this  Department  now 
remains  excepting  the  Naval  Library.  The  new  building  also 
contains  the  offices  of  the  United  States  Shipping  Board,  the 
Emergency  Fleet  Corporation  and  the  National  Advisory  Com- 
miittee  for  Aeronautics. 

The  building  contains  a  collection  of  models  of  famous 
war  ships,  and  portraits  of  former  Secretaries  of  the  Navy, 
arranged  in  the  central  portion  o<f  main  hallway,  on  second 
and  third  floors.  Open  to  the  public  week  days,  from  9  A.  M. 
to  2  P.  M. 

The  main  entrance  faces  18th  St.  The  portraits  of 
Secretaries  begin  above  first  landing  of  W.  stairway  : 

West  Wall,  above  stairs  (S.  to  N.)  :  Benjamin  F.  Tracy. 
Sec.  of  Navy,  1889-93,  by  C.  Whipple;  William  A.  Graham, 
Sec.  of  Navy,  1850-52;  George  E.  Badger,  Sec.  of  Navv\ 
1841. 

Second  Floor,  Main  Hallway,  South  Wall  (W.  to  E.)  : 
Isaac  Toucey,  Sec.  of  Navy,  1857-61 ;  James  C.  Dobbin,  Sec. 
of  Navy,  1853-57;  Adolph  E.  Borie,  Sec.  of  Navy,  March- 
June  1869;  John  Branch,  Sec.  of  Navy,  1829-31;  George 
Cabot,  First  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  appointed  May  3,  1798; 
John  P.  Kennedy,  Sec.  of  Navy,  1852-53 ;  Robert  Smith, 
Sec.  of  Navy,  1801-5 ;  Richard  W.  Thompson,  Sec.  of  Navv, 
1877-80;  William  H.  Hunt,  Sec.  of  Navy,  1881-82,  by  E.  F. 
Andrews;   Levi   Woodbury,    Sec.   of   Navy,    1831-34. 

East  Wall  (above  ascending  stairs)  :  John  Y.-  Mason, 
Sec.  of  Navy,  1844-45  and  1846-49;  Jaul  Morton,  Sec.  of 
Navy,  1904-05;  (above  descending  stairs):  George  Bancroft, 
Sec.  of  Navy,  1845-46;  Hilary  Herbert,  Sec.  of  Navy,  1893- 
97- 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  Josephus  Daniels,  Sec.  of  Navy, 
1913-21,  by  R.  S.  Meryman;  Charles  A.  Bonaparte,  Sec.  of 
Navy,  1905-6;  Bronze  bust  of  Christopher  Columbus,  taken 
from  Spanish  Cruiser  Cristobal  Colon,  sunk  July  3,  1898,  in 
naval  engagement  off  Santiago  de  Cuba.  The  attached  bronze 
taJblet  is  made  of  metal  from  wreck  of  Spanish  Cruiser  Maria 
Teresa.  On  the  same  wall  is  the  tattered  remnant  of  flag 
from  submarine  F-4,  sunk  March  25,  1915,  at  Honolulu,  and 
raised  the  following  August.  On  table  cases  in  this  Hall  are 
seven  models  of  battleships,  including  the  old  Kearsarge,  the 
South  Carolina,  the  Virginia,  the  Connecticut  and  the  San 
Diego. 


348  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

In  the  Third  Floor  Hallway  are  8  more  models  of 
battleships. 

The  adjoining  Army  Munitions  Building  contains  noth- 
ing of  interest  to  the  sightseeing  visitor. 

Within  the  Washington  Monument  grounds  is  situated 
the  recently  established  National  Sylvan  Theatre,  an  outdoor 
theatre  free  to  the  public,  and  representing  the  first  venture 
of  the  United  States  Government  into  the  theatrical  field. 
It  is  due  largely  to  the  persistent  efforts  of  Mrs.  Christine 
Hemmick  of  Washington,  and  was  planned  and  built  by  Col. 
William  W.  Harts,  out  of  funds  appropriated  by  Congress 
for  the  improvement  of  public  buildings  and  grounds  in 
Washington.  The  theatre,  which  is  scarcely  more  than  a 
grassy  platform  nestling  in  a  hollow  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Monument,  was  opened  on  June  2d,  1917,  with  elaborate 
ceremonies,  and  with  a  pageant  written  by  Mrs.  Hemmick, 
and  called  "The  Drama  Triumphant."  Among  the  many 
distinguished  performers  who  volunteered  their  services 
were :  iMme.  Louise  Homer,  John  Mason,  Otis  Skinner, 
James  K.  Hackett,  Viola  Allen,  Ethel  Barrymore,  Robert 
Mantell  and  the  Russian  dancer,  Andres  Pavley. 

VII.  From  the  Monument  Grounds  to  the  Army- 
War  College 

South  of  the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  the  great 
mapority  of  visitors  know  practically  nothing  of  Washington 
Southwest,  with  the  exception  of  Potomac  Park  (see  below, 
P-  352)>  and  the  steamship  wharves  along  Washington 
Channel.  Yet  historically  the  whole  peninsula  long  known 
as  Greenleaf's  Point  is  quite  interesting,  for  it  was  the 
district  which  Robert  Morris,  Thomas  Law  and  their  associates 
believed  to  be  the  center  of  future  growth;  and  here  were 
erected  many  of  the  first  blocks  of  dwellings  in  the  new 
Federal  City. 

Southeast  of  the  Monument  Grounds,  at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of 
14th  and  B  Sitjs.  S.  W.,  is  the  rectangular  brick  structure 
which,  until  1.914,  housed  the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and 
Printing.  It  is  now  the  Auditors'  Building,  and  contains  the 
offices  of  the  Genera]  Supply  Committee. 

This  Committee,  created  by  Act  of  June  17,  1910,  is  composed  of 
officers,  one  from  each  Executive  Department.  Its  duties  are  to  make 
an  annual  schedule  of  supplies  for  each  Department  and  other  Govern- 
ment establishments  in  Washington,  to  standardize  such  supplies  and 
solicit  bids  for  them. 


TO  THE  ARMY  WAR  COLLEGE  349 

The  new  *Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing  (PI.  Ill — 
F-3 — >No.  12),  erected  in  1911-14  from  plans  drawn  by  W.  B. 
Olmstead  in  the  office  of  the  Architect  of  the  Treasury,  and 
reputed  to  be  the  largest  engraving  plant  in  the  world,  is 
situated  on  the  W.  side  of  14th  St.,  betw.  C  and  D  Sts.  It 
consists  of  a  basement,  four  stories  and  an  attic ;  the  ground- 
plan  is  a  capital  "E,"  but  with  four  wings  instead  of  three. 
Dimensions:  Length  of  "head-house,"  505^  ft.;  width,  includ- 
ing depth  of  wings,  295  ^  ft.  The  main  fagade,  comprising  a 
iSeries  of  massive  stone  columns,  harmonizes  with  the  classic 
and  monumental  style  prevailing  in  the  other  Government 
buildings ;  the  wings,  however,  are  constructed  on  modern 
factory  lines,  and  a  full  60  per  cent  of  the  wall  space  is 
given  to  windows.  The  total  floor  area  is  approximately 
476,700  sq.   ft.     Cost  oif  building,  including  ground,  $2,869,000. 

This  Bureau  is  a  branch  of  the  Treasury  Department,  and  designs, 
engraves  and  prints  all  the  moneys  and  securities  of  the  Government 
including:  Notes,  bonds,  certificates,  national-bank  notes,  and  Federal 
reserve  notes;  all  Government  stamps,  including:  Postage,  internal 
revenue,  thrift,  war  savings  and  customs  stamps;  besides  various  other 
documents  such  as:  Treasury  warrants,  passports  and  patent  and  pension 
certificates. 

Hours.  Open  to  visitors  week  days,  from  9  a.  m.  to 
11  a.  m.,  and  from  1  p.  m.  to  2:30  p.  m.  The  public  is 
not  allowed  upon  the  main  floor  of  any  of  the  factory  rooms; 
but  there  are  specially  constructed  mezzanine  galleries 
throughout  the  (building,  aggregating  1800  ft.  in  length, 
through  which  visitors  are  taken  in  parties  by  an  official  guide, 
who  explains  the  various  processes  witnessed. 

The  actual  work  of  engraving  plates  is  not  shown.  But 
all  the  other  processes,  from  the  printing  of  bank  notes  on 
a  special  silk-fibred  paper,  to  the  counting,  numbering  and 
collection  into  packages  of  100  notes  each  by  machinery,  may 
alii  be  witnessed.  In  another  division  may  be  seen  the  print- 
ing of  the  familiar  postage  stamps  in  daily  use,  regarding 
which  the  guide  gives  plentiful  statistics.  It  is  interesting 
to  remember  that  the  various  issues  of  Liberty  Bonds,  includ- 
ing  the    Victory   Loan,    were   printed   in   this  building. 

Three  blocks  S.,  on  G  St.,  at  No.  926,  Alexander  R. 
Shepherd,  the  Governor  identified  with  the  period  of  Wash- 
ington's most  extensive  improvements^  was  born  Jan.  31,  1835. 
One  block  S.  on  9th  St.  brings  us  to  Water  St.,  where  we 
pass  (at  foot  of  7th  St.)  the  docks  of  the  Mt.  Vernon  and 
Marshall  Hall  Steamboat  Co.,  the  Norfolk  and  Baltimore 
Lines  and  the  Alexandria  Ferry.  One  block  E.  now  brings 
us  to  6th  St.,  on  which,  betw.  M  and  N  Sts.,  is  still  standing 


350  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

No.  1252,  temporarily  the  home  of  Thomas  Law,  who  invested 
his  fortune  in  Washington  lots,  and  upon  his  marriage  to 
Elizabeth  Parke  Custis,  granddaughter  of  Mrs.  Washington, 
in  1795,  lived  here  during  the  completion  of  his  mansion  on 
New  Jersey  Ave. 

Southeast  from  the  Law  house,  on  Four-and-a-half  St., 
Nos.  1313-21,  is  still  standing  the  first  range  or  row  built 
in  the  Federal  City,  1793,  popularly  known  as  "Wheat  Row." 
It  was  erected  by  a  syndicate  consisting  of  Robert  Morris, 
"Financier  of  the  American  Revolution,"  John  Nicholson, 
Comptroller  General  of  Pennsylvania  and  James  Greenleaf, 
cue-time  American  Consul  at  Amsterdam.  This  syndicate, 
and  Mr.  Law  and  Daniel  Carroll  of  Duddington,  built  prac- 
tically all  the  dwellings  which  were  in  readiness  when  the 
seat  of  Government  was  transferred  to  Washington  in  1800. 

James  Greenleaf,  son  of  the  William  Greenleaf  who  read  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  from  the  balcony  of  the  Boston  State- 
house,  July  18,  1776,  came  to  Washington  in  1792,  formed  a  syndicate 
with  Robert  Morris  and'  one  Cranch,  and  obtained'  control  at  an  aggre- 
gate price  of  $700,000  of  6000  out  of  the  10,000  available  public  lots, 
and  2500  of  the  second  10,000  allotted  to  the  original  proprietors  of 
land  comprised  within  the  District.  As  a  result  of  this  wholesale  specu- 
lation Morris  died  in  a  debtor's  prison;  Branch  in  secluded  poverty,  and 
Greenleaf,  although  eventually  released,  never  wholly  succeeded  in 
straightening    out   the   tangles   of    bis  indebtedness. 

One  Mock  S.  of  'Wheat  Row,"  on  P.  St.,  is  the  entrance 
to  the  grounds  of  the  Army  War  College. 

The  Washington  Barracks  (PI.  Ill — G-4),  containing  the 
Army  War  College  and  the  Army  Engineering  School,  are 
situated  at  the  extreme  southern  end  of  the  city,  on  what 
was  formerly  known  as  Greenleaf's  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Anacostia  River.  They  command  a  fine  view  of  Washington, 
Georgetown,  Alexandria  and  the  Potomac  River.  The  grounds 
form  a  long  narrow  quadrangle  measuring  3576  ft.  from  N.  to 
S.,  with  an  average  width  of  900  ft.,  and  are  bounded  on 
the  W.  by  Washington  Channel,  and  on  the  E.  by  James's 
Creek  Canal. 

History.  These  grounds  were  from  1861  to  1881  occupied  by  the 
Washington  Arsenal,  constituting  one  of  the  principal  Arsenals  of 
construction  in  the  United  States.  Its  numerous  workshops  were 
equipped  with  what  were  in  those  days  regarded  as  the  most  advanced 
type  of  machinery  for  manufacturing  ordnance  stores  and  equipments. 
There  was  a  Model-Office  containing  a  collection  of  models  of  the 
various  weapons  rsed  in  this  country  and  in  Europe.  In  front  of  the 
old  Arsenal   square   were   exhibited    many   trophies  captured   in   battle. 

The  chief  historic  interest,  however,  of  this  locality  centers  in 
the  fact  that  the  old  Penitentiary  was  situated  here,  being  used  for 
several  years,  until  its  removal  in  1869,  as  a  storehouse  for  ordnance 
material.  It  was  in  this  building  that  those  charged  with  complicity  in 
the  murder  of  President  Lincoln  were  tried  and  sentenced;   and   in  the 


TO  THE  ARMY  WAR  COLLEGE  351 

adjoining  yard,  at  that  time  enclosed  with  a  high  brick  wall,  Mrs. 
Surratt,  Atzeroth,  Harold  and  Payne  were  hanged,  July  9th,  1865. 
The  body  of  John  Wilkes  Booth  was  originally  buried  within  the 
Penitentiary;  one  of  the  ground  floor  cells  was  selected,  the  ammuni- 
tion removed  and  a  rude  grave  dug.  Here  the  body  lay  until  its 
removal,   many  years   later,  to  the  family  lot  near   Baltimore. 

The  entrance  is  at  the  northern  end,  on  F  St.  On  enter- 
ing, the  visitor  passes  between  two  lines  of  two-story  brick 
buildings,  those,  on  the  left  containing  the  offices  of  the 
Quartermaster,  Commissary  and  Gymnasium.  In  the  rear  of 
these  buildings,  on  both  sides,  are  the  Mess  halls.  The  cen- 
tral avenue  leads  directly  S.  to  the  spacious  parade  grounds, 
at  the  N.  end  of  which,  on  R.  and  L.,  are  the  Barracks.  On 
the  W.  side  of  the  parade  is  a  row  of  fifteen  spacious  houses, 
all  substantially  alike  in  colonial  style,  of  red  brick  with 
porticoes  supported  by  six  white  pillars,  constituting  the 
Officers'  quarters.  The  8th  or  central  house  is  that  of  the 
Commanding  Officer ;  the  7th  and  9th  are  occupied  by  Field 
Officers.  On  the  opposite  or  E.  side  of  the  parade  are  ten 
simpler  dwellings  occupied  by  the  non-Commissioned  Officers. 
The  large  central  building  is  the  Engineer  School,  an  insti- 
tution under  the  supervision  and  control  of  the  Chief  of 
Engineers,   U.   S.   Army. 

History.  In  1865,  after  the  close  of  the  Civil  War,  the  battalion 
of  engineers  was  transferred  to  Willets  Point,  N.  Y.  Harbor,  and  there, 
the  following  year,  an  engineer  school  was  established  under  the 
name  of  the  Engineer  School  of  Application.  This  school  remained 
at  Willets  Point  until  October,  1901,  when  it  was  transferred  to 
Washington  Barracks.  The  object  of  this  school  is  to  give  the  junior 
officers  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers  a  post-graduate  course  in  civil, 
military  and  electrical  and  mechanical  engineering;  to  make  researches 
in  such  branches  of  science  as  relate  to  the  duties  of  the  Corps,  and 
to   disseminate   the    information    obtained. 

The  Engineer  School  possesses  a  library  of  about  50,000  volumes, 
devoted    to   technology   and    military   art   and   science. 

The  old  Penitentiary  was  demolished  many  years  ago 
but  a  few  old  buildings  included  in  the  original  group  still 
survive  forlornly  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  to  the  S.  end 
of  the  present  grounds.  At  the  extreme  southern  end,  facing 
northward,  is  the  Army  War  College,  the  corner-stone  of 
which  was  laid  with  Masonic  rites  February  21st,  1903. 
Charles  F.  McKim,  architect. 

The  Army  War  College  (formerly  called  General  Staff  College), 
is  one  of  the  general  service  schools  of  the  Army,  and  constitutes  the 
highest  unit  in  the  military  educational  system.  Its  object  is  to  train 
selected  officers  for  duty  in  the  War  Department  General  Staff  and 
for  high  command  in  accordance  with  the  doctrine  and  methods  ap- 
proved by  the  War   Department. 

War  Department  Library.  In  191 7  the  library  was  transferred 
to  the  Army  War  College.  With  the  exception  of  the  State  Depart- 
ment Library,  it  is  the  oldest  Government  Library  in  the  country, 
having    been    founded     during    the    occupation     of     Philadelphia    as     a 


352  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

temporary  National  Capital.  Its  first  Washington  home  was  a  three- 
story  brick  building  on  the  site  of  No.  2148-50  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
For  more  than  half  a  century  it  was  housed  in  the  old  "Northwest 
Building,"  where  the  State,  War  and  Navy  Building  now  stands. 
During  the  laist  three  years  of  the  Civil  War1  the  Library  was  closed, 
its  principal  room  being  occupied  by  the  War  Department  Telegraph 
Division,  where  Lincoln  spent  much  time  awaiting  news  from  the 
front.  In  1894  military  supervision  replaced  civilian  administration,  and 
under  Brig.  Gen.  A.  W.  Greely  modern  methods  were  installed,  and 
the  whole  collection  intensified  along  military  lines.  Incidentally, 
the  priceless  collection  of  Civil  War  negatives  and  photographs  (in- 
cluding the  famous  Brady  set,  which  cost  the  Government  $25,000) 
was  rescued  from  imminent  destruction  and  properly  classified. 

Resources.  The  Library  possesses  upward  of  100,000  volumes  and 
pamphlets.  It  is  rich  in  United  States  documents,  having  a  complete 
'file  of  original  Journals  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives, 
and  a  practically  complete  set  of  Congressional  documents  and  reports 
from  the  beginning  of  the  Fifteenth  Congress;  also  sets  of  the  Journals 
of  the  Continental  Congress,  Proceedings  of  the  Constitutional  Con- 
vention, American  Archives,  Annals  of  Congress.  Congressional  Records, 
etc. 

Near  the  N.W.  cor.  of  the  War  College  formerly  stood 
a  .bronze  statue,  heroic  size,  of  Frederick  the  Great,  presented 
to  America  by  the  Emperor  William  II  of  Germany.  It  had 
no  inscription  beyond  the  name  "Friedrich  der  Grosse,"  with 
dates,  and  signature,  "T.  Uphues,  sculptor."  In  response  to 
public  sentiment  it  was  removed  soon  after  the  entrance  of 
America  into  the   World  War. 

Potomac  Park  (PI.  Ill — 1F-3),  Washington's  most  avail- 
able playground,  is  a  crescent-shaped  body  of  land,  extending 
along  the  S.  W.  water  front,  from  B  St.  N.  W.  to  about  a 
thousand  feet  S.  of  the  War  College  Grounds.  It  measures 
approximately  2^  mi.  in  length,  and  H  mi.  average  width 
(about  1000  acres,  an  area  slightlv  larger  than  that  of  Central 
Park,  New  York  City).  It  consists  largely  of  land  reclaimed 
from  the  Potomac  River  by  dredging,  and  is  divided  into 
East  and  West  sections  by  a  large  Tidal  Reservoir;  while 
the  East  section  is  separated  from  the  city  water  front  by 
Washington   Channel. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Tidal  Basin  1800  Japanese  flowering  cherry 
trees,  the  gift  of  the  Mayor  of  Tokio,  were  planted  in  19 12.  An 
Imperial  variety  of  this  tree,  previously  grown  only  in  the  Garden 
of  the  Emperor,  was  planted  that  same  year  by  Mrs.  Taft.  The  entire 
park  is  surrounded  by  a  Speedway  of  approximately  6  mi.  There  are 
Golf  Courses  (p.  28)  in  both  sections  of  the  park,  laid  out  by 
William  J.  Travers,  former  golf  champion  of  the  United  States;  also 
a  Polo  Field  W.  of  the  Tidal  Basin.  Just  S.  of  the  Naval  Hospital, 
where  25th  St.  merges  into  the  Speedway,  is  the  site  of  a  large  bowlder, 
known  as  the  Key  of  Keys,  where,  according  to  tradition,  Sraddock 
landed   at   the   beginning  of   his   expedition   to   Fort   Duquesne   in    1755. 

The  John  Paul  Jones  Memorial  is  situated  in  Potomac 
Park  at  the  foot  of  the  17th  St.  driveway.     It  consists  of  a 


THE  LINCOLN  MEMORIAL  353 

marble  rectangular  pylon  of  classic  design,  15  ft.  in  height, 
occupying  the  center  of  an  ornamental  fountain  and  serving 
as  a  background  for  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  John  Paul 
Jones.  On  the  rear  facade  of  the  pylon  is  a  large  bronze 
bas-relief  panel  depicting  the  Commodore  in  the  act  of  rais- 
ing the  American  flag  on  the  historic  ship,  the  Bonhomme 
Richard.  The  statue  is  10  ft.  in  height;  the  right  hand  is 
clenched,  while  the  left  grasps  a  sword.  For  this  statue 
Congress  appropriated  $50,000.  C.  H.  Niehaus,  sculptor ; 
Carrere  &  Hastings,  architects. 

Inscriptions.  North  fagade:  "1747-92,  'First  to  compel  a  foreign 
Man-of-War  to  strike  colors  to  the  Stars  and  Stripes.'  "  South 
fagade:   respectively   above   and   below   bas-relief   panel: 

1.  "Surrender?     I  have  not  yet  begun  to  fight!" 

2.  "In  life  he  honored  the  flag.  In  death  the  flag  shall  honor 
him." 

John  Paul  Jones  (1747-92),  born  in  Scotland,  was,  at  the  age  of 
twelve,  apprenticed  to  a  shipmaster;  at  seventeen  he  had  risen  to  second 
mate;  and  at  twenty-one  to  sea  Captain.  His  real  name  was  John 
Paul;  the  "Jones"  he  assumed  after  he  came  to  America.  In  the 
American  Revolution  he  was  First  Lieutenant  at  the  age  of  twenty- 
eight;  and  Captain  at  twenty-nine.  Later,  at  the  age  of  forty-one,  he 
was  Rear  Admiral  in  the  service  of  Russia.  He  died  in  Paris  at  the 
age  of  forty-five  and  was  buried  in  the  St.  Louis  cemetery  for  foreign 
Protestants.  His  remains  were  brought  to  America  in  1905,  and 
reinterred    within    the    grounds    of    the    Naval    Academy    at    Annapolis. 

VIII.  The  Lincoln  Memorial 

**The  Lincoln  Memorial,  erected  by  the  United  States 
according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  approved  Feb.  9,  191 1, 
and  dedicated  with  impressive  ceremonies  May  303,  1922,  is 
situated  in  the  western  section  of  Potomac  Park,  half  a 
mile  W.  of  the  Washington  Monument,  on  the  new  main  axis 
of  the  Mall  (p.  240)  approximately  at  its  intersection  with 
the  axis  of  22d  St.  W.  It  is  a  stately  rectangular  structure  of 
white  marble,  on  the  classic  order,  and  stands  upon  a  series 
of  terraces  which  rise  45  ft.  above  the  surrounding  grade 
of  Potomac  Park.  The  first  terrace  is  circular,  1,0100  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  on  its  outer  edge  stand  four  concentric  rows 
of  trees,  leaving  a  central  plateau  755  ft.  in  diameter,  sup- 
porting a  rectangular  stone  terrace-wall  14  ft.  high  and  256 
ft.  long  by  186  ft.  wide.  Upon  this  second  terrace  rise  three 
large  marble  terraces,  like  a  giant  stairway,  the  top  level  form- 
ing a  platform  204  x  134  ft.  On  this  rectangular  base  rest 
a  series  of  13  plinths  or  steps,  typifying  the  original  13 
States ;  and  crowning  these  is  the  Memorial  Hall  itself. 
attaining  a  total  height  of  144  ft.  above  the  park  level. 


354  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

History.  The  choice  of  the  present  site  for  the  Lincoln  Memorial 
dates  back  to  1901  when  the  Art  Commisison's  plans  for  beautifying 
Washington  were  submitted  to  the  Senate  District  Committee,  and  by 
that  Committee  reported  to  Congrgess.  These  plans  were  professedly 
and  actually  a  reinstatement  of  the  L'Enfant  plan  of  1792,  so  enlarged 
as  to  bring  into  the  arrangement  Potomac  Park,  thus  extending  the 
main  axis  for  approximately  a  mile  to  its  meeting  with  the  Potomac, 
and  providing  for  a  great  Rond  Pont,  to  be  surmounted  "by  a  Doric 
structure  commemorating  the  one  man  in  our  national  history  who  is 
worthy  to  stand  with  Washington."  The  first  practical  step  toward 
the  accomplishment  of  this  plan  was  when  the  late  Senator  Shelby  M. 
Cullom  introduced  in  a  Senate  a  bill  providing  for  the  erection  of  the 
Memorial  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000.  The  Commission  of  Fine  Arts  re- 
affirmed its  choice  of  site,  together  with  the  landscape  features  of  the 
1 90 1  plan,  and  recommended  that  Henry  Bacon  be  chosen  as  architect. 
Recently  Mr.  Charles  Moore  recorded  in  his  biography  of  Daniel  H. 
Burnham : 

"The  design  by  Mr.  Bacon  was  adopted  by  the  Lincoln  Memorial 
Commission  and  has  been  carried  out  in  the  most  thorough  manner. 
.  .  .  The  landscape  features  as  planned  by  the  Senate  Park  Commis- 
sioner in  1 90 1  are  being  carried  out  in  detail.  The  only  disturbance 
to  the  plan  has  been  caused  by  erecting  within  the  area  devoted  to  the 
Memorial  a  series  of  factory-like  buildings  for  war  purposes — buildings 
which  must  be  removed  before  the  Lincoln  Memorial  can  take  its 
rightful  place  among  the  monumental   structures   of  all   time." 

At  the  dedication  ceremony,  on  Decoration  Day,  1922,  the  only 
speakers  were  President  Harding,  Chief  Justice  Taft,  Edwin  Markham 
and  Dr.  Robert  R.  Moton,  Principal  of  Tuskogee  Institute.  In  pre- 
senting the  Memorial  to  the  President  for  the  American  people,  Chief 
Justice  Taft   defined   it   as: 

'"A  shrine  at  which  all  can  worship,  an  altar  upon  which  the 
supreme  sacrifice  was  made  for  liberty;  a  sacred  religious  refuge  in 
which  those  who  love  country  and  love  God  can  find  inspiration  and 
repose." 

The  Memorial  building,  constructed  throughout  of  white 
Colorado  marble,  rests  upon  a  base  188  ft.  long,  by  118  ft. 
wide,  the  outer  edge  of  which  supports  a  Doric  colonnade  of 
36  columns,  typifying  the  states  constituting  the  Union  at  the 
time  of  Lincoln's  death.  This  surrounds  the  wall  of  the 
Memorial  Hall,  which  rises  through  and  above  it;  and  at  the 
top  of  the  wall  is  a  decoration,  supported  at  intervals  by 
eagles,  and  consisting  of  48  memorial  festoons  emblematic 
of  the  48  states  of  to-day.  The  names  of  the  states  and  their 
dates  of  entry  are  inscribed  along  the  cornice.  The  Doric 
columns  are  not  monoliths,  but  composed  of  11  drums,  each 
of  the  drums  at  the  base  weighing  22  tons.  Some  idea  of 
the  huge  proportions  of  the  Memorial  as  a  whole  can  be 
gained  from  the  statement  that  it  is  slightly  larger  than 
either  of  the  Capitol  wings. 

The  interior  hall  is  a  chamber  60  ft.  wide  by  135  ft. 
long,  and  its  walls  and  floor  are  of  colored  marbles.  It  is 
lighted  partly  by  the  great  front  opening,  and  partly  through 
translucent    panels    of    marble.      The    ceiling,    60    ft.    high,    is 


THE  LINCOLN  MEMORIAL  355 

supported  by  massive  bronze  beams.  Screens  of  Ionic  columns 
divide  the  interior  into  one  central  hall  70  x  60  ft.,  and  two  side 
halls  37  x  57  ft. 

In  the  central  hall,  facing  the  entrance,  which  opens 
eastward  towards  the  Capitol,  is  the  colossal  seated  statue 
representing — 

Lincoln  Triumphant,  by  Daniel  Chester  French.  It  took 
the  sculptor  four  years  to  produce  it,  and  is  probably  the 
largest  statue  ever  carved.  It  measures  19  ft.  from  the 
pedestal  to  the  top  of  the  head,  and  30  ft.  from  the  floor  level. 
The  head  itself  measures  3  ft.  from  chin  to  top,  and  the  great 
arm  chair  in  which  Lincoln  is  seated,  is  i2l/2  ft.  high.  The 
whole  statue  weighs,  without  the  pedestal,  150  tons,  and  com- 
posed of  several  sections,  since  it  was  manifestly  impossible  to 
quarry  a  single  block  of  marble  large  enough  for  the  entire 
work.  The  piece  from  which  one  leg  was  cut  weighed  between 
20  and  25  tons.  The  head  measures  5  ft.  from  chin  to  top. 
The  material  is  Georgia  marble,  and  the  cutting  was  done  by 
Piccirilli  Bros. 

Over   the   head    of    Lincoln    is    the    following    inscription : 

IN    THIS    TEMPLE 

AS   IN    THE    HEARTS   OF   THE   PEOPLE 

FOR    WHOM    HE    SAVED    THE    UNION 

THE    MEMORY    OF 

ABRAHAM     LINCOLN 

IS     ENSHRINED     FOREVER 

In  the  side  halls,  on  N.  and  S.  walls  respectively,  are  huge 
bronze  tablets  upon  which  Lincoln's  two  great  speeches,  the 
Gettysburg  Address  and  the  Second  Inaugural  Address  are 
inscribed  in  full.  Filling  the  wall  space  beside  and  above 
these  tablets,  are  two  symbolic  mural  paintings  of  majestic 
probations,  by  Jules  Guerin,  who  devoted  three  years  to  their 
production.  Each  of  these  mural  decorations  is  on  a  canvas 
measuring  60  ft.  long  by  12  ft.  wide ;  weight  600  pounds ;  cost 
of  canvas  $400.  The  principal  figures  are  8lA  ft.  high.  These 
murals  commemorate  the  two  great  services  accomplished  by 
Lincoln :  namely,  I.  Emancipation  ;  II.  Reunion.  The 
decoration  on  the  south  wall,  above  the  Gettysburg  Address, 
typifies  the  abolition  of  slavery,  showing  Angel  of  Truth  giv- 
ing freedom  to  the  slaves  as  the  shackles  of  bondage  fall  from 
arms  and  feet.  The  subordinate  groups  represent  Civilization 
and  Progress.  On  the  northern  wall,  above  the  Second 
Inaugural  Address,  the  Angel  of  Peace  is  uniting  the  hands 
of  the  North  and  the  South.  The  subordinate  groups  here 
represent  progress  in  the  Arts  and  Sciences. 


: 


WASHINGTON  NORTHEAST 

I.     North  Capitol  Street 

{From  the  Capitol  Grounds  to  Michigan  Avenue) 

North  Capitol  Street,  one  of  the  thoroughfares  radi- 
ating from  the  Capitol,  and  marking  the  cardinal  points,  ex- 
tends from  North  B  St.  to  Michigan  Ave.,  a  distance  of  ap- 
proximately 2iy2  miles.  From  B.  to  E  Sts.  several  city  squares 
were  cleared  of  buildings  prior  to  1917,  to  make  way  for  the 
proposed  northern  extension  of  the  public  park  system, 
to  be  known  as  Capitol  Park. 

The  western  section  of  the  new  park,  between  B  and  C 
Sts.,  contains  an  historic  site,  for  it  was  here  that  George 
Washington  acquired  two  lots  and  erected  houses  on  them 
which    survived   him   for  more   than   a   century. 

The  site  of  these  houses  was  on  the  W.  side  of  North  Capitol  St., 
midway  between  B  and  C  Sts.,  and  was  described  in  Washington's  will, 
dated  July,  1779,  as  "original  lots  numbered  10  and  12  in  square  634," 
which  were  purchased  by  him  for  $963  with  the  condition  that  he 
"should  build  two  brick  houses,  three  stories  high  each"  on  them.  One 
of  these  houses  he  intended  for  his  winter  residence,  but  did  not  live 
to  complete  it.  These  houses  were  subsequently  reconstructed  as  a 
hotel  and  known  first  as  the  Hillmctn  House.  Later  the  name  was 
changed  to   the   Washington  Inn,   finally  demolished   in    19 13. 

This  same  section  of  the  park  was  used  in  June,  1917,  for 
the  encampment  of  the  Southern  Confederate  Veterans  during 
the  first  reunion  ever  held  by  this  organization  in  Washington. 
Later,  during  the  World  War,  a  still  larger  area  was  appro- 
priated for  the  so-called  "Government  Hotels"  (PI.  I — E2), 
three-story  concrete  bairrack-like  structures,  to  provide  eco- 
nomical housing  for  Uncle  Sam's  host  of  young  women  war- 
workers.  These  hotels  were  run  by  the  Government,  mostly 
at  a  financial  loss,  the  charge  averaging  between  $35  and 
$40  a  month  for  room  and  board.  The  crucial  need  being 
over,  a  movement  is  in  progress  to  have  these  encroachments 
on  park  property  removed. 

Facing  the  park,  on  the  W.  side  of  North  Capitol  St., 
midway  betw.  D  and  E  Sts.,  is  the.  Continental  Hotel  (p.  4)  ; 
and  directly  N.,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  E  St.,  is  the  Capitol  Park 
Hotel  (p.  4).  W.  on  E  St.  south  side,  is  the  recently 
opened  Grace  Dodge  Hotel  conducted  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Y.  W.  C.  A.,  and  named  after  the  late  Grace  Hoadley 
Dodge  (1855-1914)  formerly  president  of  the  National  Board 
of  that  organization. 


NORTH  CAPITOL  STREET  357 

The  hotel  is  managed  entirely  by  women,  and  no  man  is  allowed 
above  the  first  floor.  There  are  valeting!  rooms  on  each  floor,  a  vanity 
parlor  and  a  shampoo  basin,  at  which  women  can  wash  their  own  hair. 
There  are  accommodations  for  women  with  small  children,  including 
rockerless   cribs   and    heaters   for   milk   bottles. 

The  new  *City  Post  Office  (PI.  I — Ei),  situated  at  the 
N.  E.  cor.  of  North  Capitol  St.  and  Massachusetts  Ave.,  and 
adjoining  the  Union  Station  on  the  E.,  is  a  classic  structure 
in  the  Roman  Ionic  order  of  architecture,  the  material  being 
mainly  Tarvernelle  marble  from  Vicenzia,  Italy.  It  was  erected 
in    1912    (D.   H.   Burnham    &    Co.,   architects). 

The  cost  of  the  land  was  $300,000,  which  was  more  than  doubled 
by  the  expense  of  rilling  in  the  sunken  lots.  The  foundations  required 
115,000  cubic  ft."  of  Bethel  (Vt.)  granite,  and  5000  tons  of  steel  were 
used  in  the  shell  of  the  building. 

The  main  fagade  is  on  Massachusetts  Ave.,  and  con- 
sists of  fourteen  Ionic  columns  rising  through  three  stories, 
with  an  additional  pair  of  columns  in  each  of  the  corner 
pavilions.  All  the  panels  between  the  columns,  throughout 
the  three  stories  of  this  facade,  are  of  bronze.  The  columns 
are  surmounted  by  a  cornice  and  attic.  Graven  upon  the 
former  are  two  inscriptions : 

I.  (Eastern  corner),  "COURIER  OF  NEWS  AND 
KNOWLEDGE,  INSTRUMENT  OF  TRADE  AND  IN- 
DUSTRY, PROMOTER  OF  MUTUAL  ACQUAINT- 
ANCE, PEACE  AND  GOOD  WILL  AMONG  NATIONS." 

II.  (Western  .corner),  "MESSENGER  OF  SYM- 
PATHY AND  LOVE,  SERVANT  OF  PARTED 
FRIENDS,  CONSOLER  OF  THE  LONELY,  BOND  OF 
THE  SCATTERED  FAMILY,  ENLARGER  OF  THE 
COMMON  LIFE." 

The  piquant  interest  of  these  inscriptions  lies  in  the  fact  that  they 
are  an  instance  of  unintentional  collaboration  by  two  distinguished 
men.  At  the  request  of  the  architects,  Ex-President  Eliot  of  Harvard 
furnished  the  original  text  which,  in  accordance  with  the  requirements 
in  case  of  an  inscription  on  any  Government  building,  was  turned 
over  to  Secretary  Tumulty  for  approval.  The  latter,  unaware  of  the 
authorship,  submitted  it  to  President  Wilson,  whose  felicitous  altera- 
tions may  be  seen  by  comparison  with  the  original  version:  I.  "Cornier 
of  News  and  Knowledge,  Instrument  of  Trade  and  Commerce,  Pro- 
moter of  Mutual  Acquaintance  Among  Men  and  Nations,  and  Hence 
of  Peace  and  Good  Will."  II.  "Courier  of  Love  and  Sympathy,  Mes- 
senger of  Friendship,  Consoler  of  the  Lonely,  Bond  of  the  Scattered 
Family,   Enlarger   of   the   Public   Life." 

The  two  main  entrances  are  through  the  E.  and  W. 
pavilions.  Note,  flanking  the  approaches,  the  two  pairs  of 
massive  bronze  lanterns  which,  like  all  the  bronze  work  in 
the  building,  were  executed  by  the  Gorham  Company.     Note 


358  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

also  that  the  prevailing  motive  in  the  carved  ornamentation 
of  the  building  is  consistently  a  honeysuckle  design. 

The  public  corridor  is  on  the  Massachusetts  Ave.  side. 
It  is  elaborately  finished  in  bronze  and  marble,  the  ceiling 
supported  by  twenty-eight  richly  veined  dark  green  mono- 
lithic pillars,  costing  $1350  each. 

The  out-going  mail  is  carried  directly  to  the  trains  over 
a  "Bridge  of  Sighs,"  connecting  the  Post  Office  with  the 
Union  Station.  The  northward  and  westward-bound  mail 
goes  to  the  street  level;  the  southward-bound  mail  to  the 
lower  tunnel-level.  All  mail  coming  to  the  Office  is  placed 
on  huge  belts,  conveyors,  which  automatically  distribute  it. 
Practically  all  the  transportation  in  the  building  is  accom- 
plished by  machinery. 

Immediately  E.  of  the  Post  Office  is  the  new  Union 
Station,  with  wide  oval  Plaza  in  front. 

The  **Union  Station  (PI.  Ill  E-5— No.  103),  front- 
ing on  the  spacious  Plaza  (1000  ft.  x  500  ft.)  formed  by 
the  juncture  of  Massachusetts  and  Delaware  Avenues,  serves 
as  a  central  terminal  for  all  the  Railroad  lines  entering 
the  city,  and  also  as  a  through  station  for  the  main  trunk 
lines.  It  was  erected  during  the  years  1903-07,  from  plans 
drawn  by  Daniel  H.  Bumham  of  Chicago,  and  constitutes 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  most  spacious  of  the  public 
buildings  of  Washington,  covering  somewhat  more  area  than 
the  Capitol  itself. 

The  history  of  this  building  is  distinctly  unusual.  It  was  indi- 
rectly the  result  of  an  insistent  popular  demand  for  the  abolition,  of 
grade-crossings  within  the  city,  and  the  removal  from  the  Mall  of 
the  station  and  unsightly  tracks  of  the  Baltimore  and  Potomac  R.  R. 
Congress  by  an  act  dated  February  12th,  190 1,  authorized  a  new  and 
enlarged  station  on  the  site  of  the  old  Baltimore  and  Potomac  station, 
with  an  overhead  viaduct  across  the  Mall  and  along  Maryland  and 
Virginia  Aves.,  and  by  the  same  act  provided  for  a  station  for  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Road  approximately  on  the  site  of  the  present 
Union  Station,  with  an  overhead  viaduct  extending  N.  This  same  year, 
however,  witnessed  the  beginning  of  a  bold  and  comprehensive  plan 
for  beautifying  the  National  Capital,  through  a  commission  appointed 
at  the  suggestion  of  the  American  Institute  of  Architects,  and  con- 
sisting of  Daniel  H.  Burnham,  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Jr.,  Charles 
F.  McKim  and  Augustus  St.  Gaudens.  The  work  of  this  commission 
had  barely  started  when  it  became  evident  that  any  plan  for  beauti- 
fying and  developing  the  city's  parks  depended  upon  the  removal  of  the 
then  existing  tracks  and  railway  stations.  Accordingly  the  scheme  for 
a  Union  Terminal  was  laid  before  the  executive  officers  of  the  respec- 
tive  railways   concerned    and    received    prompt   and    hearty   co-operation. 

The  new  station  was  authorized  by  Act  of  Congress  Feb.  28th, 
1913,  providing:  that  the  building  should  cost  not  less  than  $4,000,000; 
and  that  Congress  should  pay  $1,500,000  each  to  the  Pennsylvania  and 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railways,  the  former  sum  to  be  paid  equally  by 
the  United  States  and  the  District  of  Columbia,  the  latter  wholly  by 
the  general  government. 


NORTH  CAPITOL  STREET  359 

Considering  the  Union  Station  as  a  vestibule  or  gateway 
to  the  Capital  city,  its  designer  appropriately  drew  its  archi- 
tectural motives  from  the  triumphal  arches  of  Imperial  Rome. 
The  dimensions  of  the  main  building  are  620  ft.  long  and 
343  ft.  wide,  with  a  height  of  from  65  to  120  ft.  The  Concourse 
behind  it  is  760  ft.  long  and  130  ft.  wide,  almost  equalling 
the  combined  areas  of  the  Grand  Central  and  Pennsylvania 
Terminal  Concourses  in  New  York.  In  the  central  pavilion 
of  the  main  fagade  there  are  three  noble  entrance  arches 
30  ft.  high  by  30  ft.  wide,  which  lead  into  a  vaulted  open-air 
vestibule  and  thence  into  the  main  waiting  room.  To  R. 
and  L.  of  the  central  pavilion  extend  the  E.  and  W.  wings 
of  the  station,  borne  respectively  on  seven  smaller  arches 
and  terminating  in  end  pavilions,  each  containing  a  40  ft. 
arched  carriage  entrance,  the  eastern  one  leading  to  a  private 
suite  for  the  President  and  his  guests,  while  the  western 
pavilion  contains  the  general  carriage  porch.  The  exterior 
material  of  the  station  is  a  white  granite  from  Bethel,  Va., 
here  employed  for  the  first  time  in  any  large  public  building. 

It  is  told  that  the  quarries  from  which  this  exceptionally  fine 
granite  comes  were  tie  property  of  an  eccentric  Easterner  who,  having 
early  in  life  suffered  the  loss  of  a  favorite  child  in  a  railway  accident, 
solemnly  vowed  that  the  stone  from  his  quarry  should  henceforth  be 
used  solely  for  the  purpose  of  tombstones — a  vow  he  maintained  until 
his  death. 

The  inscriptions  on  the  E.  and  S.  facades  consist  of  quo- 
tations selected  by  ex-President  Eliot  of  Harvard  University. 

1.  Southeast  Pavilion,  East   facade : 

"Welcome    the    coming,    speed    the    parting   guest." 
"Virtue    alone   is    sweet   society. 

It  keeps  the  key  to  all   heroic    hearts. 

And   opens  you  a  welcome   in   them   all." 

2.  Southeast  Pavilion,   South   facade : 

"Let   all   the  ends   thou   aimest   at 

Thy    Country's — thy    God's — and    Truth's. 
"Be   noble,   and  the   nobleness  that   Kes 

In   other   men — sleeping,    but   never   dead — 

Will  rise  in  majesty  to  meet  thine   own." 

3.  Southwest  Pavilion,   South  facade : 

"He  that  would  bring  home  the  wealth  of  the  Indies  must  carry 
the  wealth  of  the  Indies  with  him.  So  is  it  in  travelling — a  man 
must  carry  knowledge  with  hiim  if  he  would!  bring  home  knowledge.'' 

The  chief  artistic  adornment  of  the  main  fagade  is  the 
series  of  six  symbolic  *Monolithic  Statues,  by  Louis  St. 
Gaudcns.  They  are  of  colossal  size  and  are  ranged  along 
the  cornice  surmounting  the  six  columns  which  flank  the 
arches  of  the  main  entrance.  Each  is  accompanied  with  an 
inscribed  legend.     From  W.  to  E.  they  are  as  follows ; 


360  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

i.  Fire,  a  robed  female  figure  bearing  a  torch.     Legend: 

"Fire,  greatest  of  discoveries,  enabling  man  to  live  in  various 
climates,  use  many  foods,  and  compel  the  forces  of  nature  to  do  his 
work." 

2.  Electricity.  Male  figure  holding  forked  lightning  in 
hand.     Legend : 

"Electricity,  carrier  of  light  and  power,  devourer  of  time  and  space, 
bearer  of  human  speech  over  land  and  sea,  greatest  servant  of  man 
itself  unknown,  thou  has  put  all  things  under  his  feet." 

3.  Freedom.  Female  figure  with  laurel  branches  in  her 
right  hand  and  a  sword  in  her  left.     Legend : 

"Sweetener  of  hut  and  of  hall,  bringer  of  life  out  of  naught, 
Freedom,  O   fairest  of   all  the  Daughters   of   Time  and  Thought." 

4.  Knowledge.  Male  figure  with  stylus  and  scroll. 
Legend : 

"Man's  imagination  has  conceived  all  numbers  and  letters;  all  tools, 
vessels  and  shelters,  every  art  and  trade,  all  philosophy  and  poetries, 
and  all  politics:    the  truth  shall  make  you  free." 

5.  Agriculture.     Female  figure  with  a  sheaf.     Legend : 

"The  farm,  best  hope  of  the  family,  main  source  of  national  wealth, 
foundation  of  civilized   society,   the  natural  Providence." 

6.  Mechanics.  Male  figure  with  forceps,  anvil  and  ham- 
mer.    Legend : 

"The  old  Mechanic  Arts,  controlling  new  forces,  build  new  highways 
for  goods  and  men,  override  the  ocean  and  make  the  very  ether  carry 
human  thought.     The  desert  shall  rejoice  and  blossom  as  the  rose." 

The  *General  Waiting  Room  is  a  spacious  hall  220  ft. 
long  by  130  ft.  wide,  and  is  crowned  by  a  Roman  barrel- 
vault  90  ft.  high,  which  is  decorated  with  sunken  coffers 
after  the  manner  of  the  Baths  of  Diocletian.  Light  is  ad- 
mitted through  a  series  of  semi-circular  windows;  those' at 
the  two  ends  of  the  vaulted  roof  measuring  75  ft.  in  diameter, 
and  the  five  on  each  side  wall  measuring  30  ft.  each.  At  the 
E.  end  is  a  Restaurant ;  at  the  W.  end  the  Ticket  lobby  with 
accommodations  for  checking  packages.  The  Smoking-room 
and  Women's  Waiting-room  are  respectively  to  L.  and  R.  of 
the  main  entrance.  Beyond  the  waiting-room  is  the  Passenger 
Concourse  or  lobby,  being  one  of  the  largest  rooms  in  the 
world  under  a  single  roof :  It  has  been  estimated  that  it 
would  provide  standing  room  for  an  army  of  50,000  men. 

Thirty-three  tracks  enter  this  station.  Twenty  of  these 
are  on  a  level  with  the  waiting-room;  the  remaining  13  enter 
on  a  lower  level  20  ft.  below,  and  seven  of  these  continue 
under  the  building  and  southward  in  a  tunnel  on  the  line  of 
1st  St.,  passing  beneath  Capitol  Hill  at  a  depth  of  40  ft.  meas- 
ured from  the  Neptune  Fountain  in  front  of  the  Library  of 
Congress. 


NORTH  CAPITOL  STREET  361 

One  block  N.  of  the  Post  Office  on  W.  side  of  North 
Capitol  St.,  and  extending  from  G  St.  to  H  St.,  is  a  group 
of  buildings  constituting  the  ^Government  Printing  Office 
(which  must  not  be  confused  with  the  Bureau  of  Engraving 
and  Printing,  the  latter  being  a  branch  of  the  Treasury 
Department).  The  main  building  is  an  eight-story  brick-and- 
steel  structure  of  the  modern  factory  type,  and  claims  to  be 
the  largest  printing  plant  in  the  world,  having  a  working 
floor  space  oif  400,000  sq.  ft.  It  was  completed  in  1902  at 
a  cost  of  $2,400,000 — several  thousand  dollars  less  than  the 
original  appropriation. 

Hours.  Open  to  the  public  daily,  excepting  Sundays  and 
holidays,  from  10  to  12  A.  M.  and  from  1  to  2  P.  M.  Visitors 
are  conducted  through  the  building  in  parties  by  official 
guides. 

History.  Until  the  middle  of  the  19th  century  practically  all  public 
printing  was  done  by  contract,  or  election,  a  public  printer  being  ap- 
pointed for  each  House  of  Congress.  In  1852/  this  system  was  changed, 
and  the  office  was  created  of  Superintendent  of  Public  Printing. 
Cornelius  Wendell,  once  public  printer  for  the  Senate,  put  up  a  large 
establishment  on  the  present  site  of  the  Government  Printing  Office. 
In  i860  this  became  Government  property  at  a  cost  of  $135,000;  and 
when  the  office  of!  Superintendent  was  subsequently  abolished,  and  the 
Senate  was  authorized  to  elect  a  practical  printer  to  take  charge  of 
all  work  for  both  Houses  of  Congress  and  all  Government  Departments, 
Wendell  became  one  of  the  first  Public  Printers.  There  were  then 
approximately  300'  employees.  To-day,  there!  are  upward  of  4000,  more 
than  one-third  of  whom  are  women.  It  is  a  Union  shop.  There  are 
96   linotype  machines,  and  over   100  presses  of  various  types. 

The  Public  Printer  acts  under  direction  of  the  Joint  Committee  on 
Printing,  created  in  1846,  and  consisting  of  three  members  each  from 
the  Senate  and  the  House  of  Representatives.  Its  principal  duties, 
as  set  forth  in  the  Printing  Act  approved  Jan.  12,  1895,  are  to  adopt 
all  necessary  measures  to  remedy  any  neglect,  delay,  duplication  or 
waste  in  the  public  printing,  binding  and  distribution  of  Government 
publications;  to  control  the  arrangement  and  style  of  the  Congressional 
Record,  and  direct  the  preparation  of  the  Congressional  Directory,  the 
annual  abridgement  of  messages  and  documents  and  other  similar 
publications. 

The  Government  Printing  Office  is  remarkable  for  the 
enormous  size  of  its  operations,  rather  than  for  anything 
unusual  in  machinery  and  equipment.  Here  the  visitor  may 
witness  on  a  vast  scale  all  the  varied  processes  of  type- 
setting, printing  and  binding,  including  the  interesting  opera- 
tion of  gold-lettering  and  of  marbling  the  edges  of  books. 
But  the  interest  centers  in  the  magnitude  of  the  operations 
witnessed.  They  include  the  daily  printing  of  several  thousand 
copies  of  the  Congressional  Record,  all  hills  introduced  into 
Congress,  and  all  bulletins,  reports,  etc.,  of  the  various  Gov- 
ernment   Departments,    millions    of    pamphlets    being    printed 


362  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

for  the  Department  of  Agriculture  alone.  Other  large  items 
include  money  order  forms  and  post  cards,  the  latter  alone 
running  to  over  a  billion  a  year. 

Most  Government  printing  matter  is  distributed  free,  or  used  in 
the  various  Departments,  but  the  Superintendent  of  Public  Documents 
is  authorized  by  law  to  sell  any  public  document  in  his  charge  at 
actual  cost,  unless  its  disposition  is  otherwise  provided  for.  Such 
sales  run  to  upwards   of  five  million  copies  annually. 

Continuing  N.  we  reach,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  I  St., 
St.  Aloysius  Church,  one  of  the  largest  Roman  Catholic 
churches  in  Washington,  organized  in  1859,  and  dedicated 
October  15  of  that  year.  It  is  an  unpretentious  structure  of 
painted  brick,  with  a  frontage  of  80  ft.,  and  a  depth  of  160 
ft.  It  was  built  from  designs  by  the  Rev.  B.  Sestini,  S.J., 
and  cost  approximately  $50,000. 

The    painting    over    the    main    altar,    representing    the    First    Com-  • 
munion   of   St.  Aloysius,  was  executed  by  Constantino  Brumidi    (p.   61). 
The   principal    female   figure   in   the   picture   is   said   to   have   been   posed 
for  by  Mrs.  Stephen  A.  Douglas. 

Immediately  W.  of  St.  Aloysius  church  and  parochial 
buildings,  is  Gonzaga  College,  a  Catholic  institution  founded 
in  1821,  by  Father  Caffery,  then  Rector  of  St.  Patrick's  (p. 
147)-     The  present  structure  dates  from  191 1. 

One  block  further  W.,  at  N.W.  cor.  of  26.  and  I  Sis.,  are  three 
historic  houses,  known  as  Douglas  Row.  They  were  built  in  1858-59: 
No.  201  by  Stephen  A.  Douglas,  Senator  from  Illinois;  No.  203  by  John 
C.  Breckenridge,  then  Vice-President;  and  No.  205  by  Henry  M.  Rice, 
Senator  from  Minnesota.  Breckinridge  never  occupied  his  house;  Rice, 
lived  in  No.  205  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War,  when  the  three 
houses  became  Douglas  Hospital.  Directly  opposite  stood  Stanton  Hos- 
pital, on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  Seaton  Public  School.  No.  201 
was  occupied  in  1869  by  ex-Mayor  Richard  Wallach  (1861-68),  and 
later  became  the  Papal  Legation,  and  was  occupied  for  several'  years 
by  the,  late  Mgr.  Martinelli.  No.  203  was  presented,  after  the  war,  to 
William  T.  Sherman.  It  is  now  occupied  by  the  Children's  Court. 
No.  205  was  purchased  by  a  number  of  prominent  citizens,  after  the 
close  of  the  war,  and  presented  to  General  Grant,  who  lived  here  until 
his  election  to  the  Presidency.  It  was  later  for  many  years  the  home 
of   Matthew   G.   Emery,    the   last   Mayor   of  Washington. 

No.  1 140  North  Capitol  St.,  between  L  and  M  Sts.,  is  the 
Sibley  Hospital.  West  on,  M  St.,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  4th  St., 
is  the  former  home  of  Charles  Warren  Stoddard,  the  poet 
and  essayist,  and  intimate  friend  of  Joaquin  MMler.  East  on 
M.  St.,  ait  6th  St.  and  Florida  Ave.,  is  the  Columbia  Institute 
for  Deaf  Mutes   (p.  366). 

On  1st  St.  N.  W.,  between  N  and  O  Sts.,  is  the  recently 
erected  Dunbar  High  School  (dedicated  in  the  spring  of 
1917),  an  institution  named  in  memory  of  Paul  Laurence 
Dunbar,  the  negro  poet,  and  regarded  as  the  finest  and  best 


NORTH  CAPITOL  STREET  3&3 

equipped  Public  High  School  for  colored  youth  in  the  United 
States.  The  building  and  equipment  cost  $550,000,  exclusive 
of  grounds. 

On  the  E.  side  of  North  Capitol  St.,  from  V  to  Bryant 
Sts.,  is  the  Prospect  Hill  Cemetery.  One  block  W.,  at  No. 
2122  1st  St.,  between  V  and  W  Sts.,  is  the  residence  of 
Samuel  Gompers,  since  1882  President  of  the  American  Fed- 
eration of  Labor.  No.  2126  is  the  home  o»f  James  O'Con- 
nell,  since  1895  Vice-President  of  the  same  organization.  On 
the  W.  side  of  North  Capitol  St.,  extending  from  Chamiing 
St.  to  Michigan  Ave.,  are  the  extensive  grounds  of  the  city 
Filtration  Plant;  and  adjoining  it  on  the  W.  the  New  Res- 
ervoir, overlooked  on  further  side  by  the  grounds  and  build- 
ings of  Hozvard  University  (p.  430).  Opposite  the  Filtration 
Plant,  on  E.  side  of  North  Capitol  St.,  is  Glenwood  Cemetery. 

North  Capitol  St.  terminates  at  Michigan  Ave.,  which 
forms  the  southern  boundary  of  the  grounds  of  the  Soldiers' 
Home    (p.  432). 


364  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

II.    From  the  Capitol  Grounds  to  Columbia  Institute 

This  section  of  Washington,  comprising  approximately 
2^4  sq.  mi.,  is  largely  built  over  with  monotonous  rows  of 
neat,  two-story  brick  houses,  mainly  occupied  'by  the  thrifty 
middle-class.  There  is  nothing  to  tempt  the  casual  visitor 
E.  of  Lincoln   Square,  except  the   Eastern   High   School. 

The   Old  Capitol  Building    (PI.   I— F3),  of  which  the 

corner  portion,  No.  25,  has  been  recently  acquired  as  the 
National  Headquarters  of  the  Woman's  (Party.,  stands  at 
S.  E.  cor.  of  First  St.  and  Maryland  Ave.  N.  E.  The  building 
takes  its  name  from  having  'been  erected  to  accommodate  the 
Houses  of  Congress  during  restoration  of  the  Capitol  after  de- 
struction by  the  British  in  1814.  In  front  of  this  building 
President  Monroe  took  Oath  of  Office,  March  4th,  181 7. 

The  combined  cost  of  purchase  and  remodelling  the  old 
building  for  its  new  purpose  is  estimated  at  $250,000.  Formal 
dedication,  May  21,   1922. 

History.  Until  shortly  before  the  War  of  1812  the  site  of  the 
Old  Capitol  remained  a  garden.  Then  the  corner  portion  was  occupied 
by  Coolidge's  Hotel,  later  Tomlinson's,  from  181 2  to  1814,  when  it  was 
burned  by  the  British.  Thereupon  a  committee  of  citizens,  including 
William  Law  and  Daniel  Carroll,  immediately  took  steps  to  provide 
a  temporary  building  for  Congress.  The  future  bricks  for  its  walls, 
and  timbers  for  its  floors  were  then  unbaked  clay  and  unfelled  trees; 
yet  despite  this  handicap  the  building  was  completed  and  handed  over 
to  the  Government  December  4th,  1815.  Here  both  branches  of  Congress 
continued  to  hold  their  sessions  until  the  restoration  of  their  respective 
chambers  in  the  Capitol  was  completed. 

The  Old  Capitol  Building  is  described  as  a  dingy  red  brick  edifice 
of  the  old  English  style,  not  unlike  the  primitive  Quaker  buildings  still 
to  be  seen  in  Philadelphia.  When  abandoned  by  Congress  in  1825,  it 
became  a  fashionable  boarding-house.  Among  its  distinguished  guests 
was  John  C.  Calhoun,  who  died  here  in  1850.  The  sculptor,  Luigi 
Persico,  occupied  a  room  here  while  engaged  on  the  models  of  his 
works  in  the  Capitol.  Anne  Royall,  known  as  the  "Mother  of  yellow 
journalism,"  also  resided  here.  She  first  appeared  in  Washington  in 
1830,  being  then  more  than  sixty  years  of  age,  and  founded  and  edited 
the  Paul  ,Pry;  a  sort  of  Town  Topics,  and  in  thofe  aays  so*  daringly 
frank  that  it  scandalized  society,  and  brought  her  many  enemies. 
Charges  of  blackmail  were  openly  made;  but  on  the  other  hand  she  had 
a  few_  staunch  friends  in  Congress.  Her  most  famous  exploit  was  in 
interviewing  President  John  Quincy  Adams.  The  story  runs  that  having 
repeatedly  failed  to  obtain  an  audience,  she  discovered  that. the  President 
was  in  the  habit  of  going  daily,  in  the  early  dawn,  through  the  Presi- 
dential grounds,  to  the  Potomac  for  a  morning  swim;  whereupon  the 
dauntless  old  lady  followed  him  one  morning,  and  seating  herself  upon 
his  clothing  on  the  bank,  compelled  the  President  to  remain  in  the 
water  until  he  had  answered  her  questions.  Anne  Royall  occupies  an 
unmarked  grave  in  the  Congressional  Cemetery. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  Civil  War  the  Old  Capitol 
Building,  then  very  much  out  of  repair,  was  converted  into  a 
prison,    for    the    detention    of    State    and    Military    prisoners. 


THE  CAPITOL  TO  COLUMBIA  INSTITUTE      365 

Among  those  confined  here  was  the  notorious  Wirtz,  Keeper 
of  Andersonville  prison,  subsequently  executed  (p.  414).  In 
the  late  6o's  the  building  became  the  property  of  a  Mr 
Brown,  then  Sergeant-at-Arms  of  the  Senate,  and  was  re- 
modeled into  dwelling  houses,  ornamented  with  mansard 
roofs.  The  corner  dwelling  was  for  many  years  the  home  of 
Chief  Justice  Field. 

The  Senate  Office  Building  (PI.  I — E3)  occupies  the 
square  bounded  by  Delaware  Ave.  and  B,  C  and  First  Sts. 
N.  E.,  which  corresponds  .to  the  site  of  the  House  Office  Build- 
ing at  B  and  First  Sts.,  S.  E.  (p.  403).  Both  of  these  buildings 
were  erected  under  the  supervision'  of  Elliott  Woods  from 
designs  by  Carrere  and  Hastings,  the  House  Building  having 
received  the  personal  attention  of  Mr.  Hastings,  while  Mr. 
Carrere  was  responsible  for  the  Senate  Building.  Both  build- 
ings are  on  the  classic  order,  "but  with  a  French  interpretation. 

The  Senate  Building  consists  of  a  rustic  lower  story  and 
two  upper  stories,  surmounted  by  an  entablature  and  balus- 
trade. The  principal,  or  B  St.,  fagade  consists  of  a  colon- 
nade of  sixteen  columns  rising  through  the  second  and  third 
stories,  and  flanked  by  porticoes.  Unlike  the  House  Office 
Building,  the  Senate  Building  is  not  a  hollow  square,  but 
extends  around  only  three  sides  of  its  grounds,  leaving  the 
central  court  open  on  the  1st  St.  side.  The  exterior  walls- 
are  of  Vermont  marble ;  the  court  walls  are  of  Indiana  lime- 
stone.   The  appropriation  for  this  building  was  $3,000,000. 

The  broad  entrance,  at  the  corner  of  Delaware  Ave. 
and  G  St.,  opens  into  a  spacious  rotunda,  rising  through  all 
three  stories,  and  surrounded  by  an  arcade  of  columns.  Be- 
yond the  rotunda,  directly  N.  E.  of  the  entrance,  ascend  the 
main  double  stairs,  on  the  Italian  Renaissance  order.  At 
head  of  stairs,  on  second  floor,  vsi  the  Senate  Caucus  Room, 
a  spacious  chamber  finished  throughout  wifth  polished  marble, 
and  constituting  the  show  room  of  the  building. 

East  of  the  Senate  Building,  at  No.  226  Maryland  Ave., 
was  the  home  of  the  late  John  A.  Joyce,  author  of  "Laugh, 
and  the  World  Laughs  With  You."  The  N.  E.  cor.  of  2d 
St.  and  Maryland  Ave.  is  credited  with  being  the  only  spot 
within  the  city  limits  where  armed  defence  was  made  against 
the  British  in  1814.  At  N.  E.  cor.  of  C  and  2d  Sts.  stands 
the  R.   C.   Church  of   St.    Joseph,  organized  in   1868,  and  the 


366  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

original  building  erected  from  plans  modeled  upon  the  Cologne 
Cathedral.  In  1886  it  changed  from  a  German  to  an  English 
congregation,  and  the  present  brownstone  edifice  was  finished 
and  dedicated  in  1891  by  Cardinal  Gibbons.  Dimensions,  75  x 
156  ft.;  seating  capacity,  1200;  cost  $<8o,ooo. 

Two  squares  E.  on  C  St.  brings  us  to  Stanton  Square, 
ZV2  acres,  at  intersection  of  Massachusetts  and  Maryland 
Aves.  It  contains  an  equestrian  Statue  of  General  Nathanael 
Greene  (1742-86),  by  Henry  Kirke  Browne,  erected  in  1887 
at  a  cost  of  $50,000. 

General  Greene  held  important  commands  under  Washington,  and 
especially  distinguished  himself  in  his  southern  campaigns,  notably  at 
Eutaw  Spring  and  Hobkirk's  Hill.  He  presided  over  the  court  which 
condemned  Major  Andre  to  death. 

Five  squares  S.  E.,  on  Massachusetts  Ave.,  is  L/ncoln 
Square,  containing,  at  the  W.  end,  Statue  of  Lincoln  popularly 
known  as  the  ^Emancipation  Monument.  It  is  a  bronze 
group,  heroic  size,  representing  Lincoln  standing,  holding  in 
his  right  hand  the  Proclamation  of  Emancipation  and  with 
his  left  resting  upon  the  shoulder  of  a  crouching  negro,  whose 
shackles  have  been  broken  (modeled  by  Thomas  Ball,  1874; 
cast  in  Munich  by  Fred.  Miiller,  1875.  Cost  $17,000).  Be- 
low   is    the    following    inscription : 

"FREEDOM'S  MEMORIAL:  In  grateful  memory  of  Abraham 
Lincoln.  This  monument  was  erected  by  the  Western  Sanitary  Com- 
mission of  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  with  funds  contributed  solely  by  eman- 
cipated citizens  of  the  LTnited  States,  declared  free  by  his  Proclama- 
tion, Jan    1st,   A.D.,    1863." 

The  first  contribution  of  Five  dollars  was  made  by  Charlotte 
Scott,  a  freed  woman  of  Virginia,  being  her  first  earnings  in  freedom, 
and  consecrated  by  her  suggestion  and  request  on  the  day  she 
heard  of  President  Lincoln's  death,  to  build  a  monument  to  his 
memory. 

This  monument,  12  ft.  high,  was  unveiled  on  April  14th,  1876, 
the  nth  anniversary  of  Lincoln's  assassination.  The  inaugural  oration 
was  delivered  by  Frederick  Douglass. 

Returning  E.  three  squares  to  8th  St.,  the  visitor  may 
take  a  northbound  Florida  Ave.  car  which  passes  the  main 
entrance  to  the  Columbia  Institute  for  Deaf  Mutes  (1  mi.  N.). 

The  Columbia  Institute  for  Deaf  Mutes  (PI.  3— D5), 
including  Gallaudet  College,  the  first  established  school 
of  higher  learning  for  deaf  mutes,  occupies  a  tract 
of  about  100  acres,  known  as  Kendall  Green  and 
situated  on  the  N.  E.  side  of  Florida  Ave.,  be- 
tween L  and  O  Sts.,  N.  E.  The  Institution  com- 
prises   to-day    four    departments:       1.    Gallaudet    College;    2. 


THE  CAPITOL  TO  COLUMBIA  INSTITUTE    367 

The  Department  of  Articulation  and  Normal  Instruction ;  3. 
The  Kendall  School  (primary  department)  ;  4.  The  Domes- 
tic Department.  The  collegiate  department  for  1916-17  shows 
an  enrollment  of  107  students,  65  male,  42  female.  Among 
these  forty  states  are  represented. 

History.  Thei  Columbia  Institute  for  Deaf  Mutes,  incorporated  by 
Act  of  Congress  in  1857,  had  its  origin  in  a  small  school  (founded 
1856),  which  numbered  among  its  trustees  the  Hon.  Amos  Kendall,  one 
of  Washington's  prominent  citizens.  When  the  school  was  dissolved 
(within  its  first  year),  five  of  the  pupils,  who  were  deaf  mutes,  were 
bound  over  by  the  Orphans'  Court  to  Mr.  Kendall  as  their  guardian, 
and  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  present  institution.  It  was  opened 
June  13th,  1857,  under  the  superintendence  of  Edward  Miner  Gallaudet, 
son  of  Thomas  Hopkins  Gallaudet,  founder  of  the  Instruction  of  the 
Deaf    in   America. 

At  the  start  the  only  available  funds  were  an  allowance  granted 
by  the  Act  of  Incorporation,  of  $150  per  annum  for  each  indigent 
pupil  from  the  District  of  Columbia.  In  1858  Congress  granted  $3000 
per  annum  for  the  ensuing  five  years  for  salaries  and  incidental  ex- 
penses, at  the  same  time  authorizing  free  admission  of  deaf  or  blind 
children  of  men  in  service  of  the  U.  S.  Army  or  Navy.  The  original 
ground  for  the  Institution  was  given  by  Mr.  Kendall,  who  in  1859 
erected  at  his  own  expense  the  first  of  the  Institution's  new  buildings, 
immediately  adjoining  the  old  frame  dwelling  previously  used.  In  1862, 
the  number  of  pupils  having  increased  to  41,  Congress  appropriated 
$9000  for  additional  buildings.  In  1864,  the  attention  of  Congress 
having  been  called  to  the  great  need  of  a  College  for  the  higher  edu- 
cation of  the  deaf,  an  Act  was  passed  "to  authorize  the  Columbia  In- 
stitution for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  the  Blind  to  confer  degrees," 
and  on  the  8th  of  April  was  approved  by  President  Lincoln,  then  ex 
officio  patron  of  the  Institution.  This  new  department,  under  the  name 
of  National  Deaf-Mute  College,  was  opened  in  the  autumn  of  1864  with 
13  students.  In  the  following  year  Congress  provided  for  the  transfer 
of  such  blind  children  as  were  then  in  the  Institution  to  Baltimore, 
and  the  words  "and  the  Blind"  were  stricken  from  the  corporate  name. 

Amos  Kendall,  first  President  of  the  Institution,  resigned  in  1864, 
and  was  succeeded  by  the  former  superintendent,  Mr.  Gallaudet.  After 
the  death  of  Mr.  Kendall,  Congress  made  appropriations  (in  1872-74) 
of  more  than  $80,000  for  the  purchase  of  the  beautiful  eight-acre 
country  seat  still -known  as  Kendall  Green,  which  adjoined  the  Institu- 
tion's  original  grounds  on.   two   sides, 

In  1894,  upon  petition  by  the  students,  the  name  of  the 
collegiate  department  was  changed  to  Gallaudet  College, 
in  honor  of  Dr.  Thomas  Hopkins  Gallaudet. 

The  main  entrance  is  on  Florida  Ave.,  diagonally  op- 
posite 7th  St.,  N.E.,  and  near  the  N.W.  corner  of  tne 
grounds.  Directly  opposite  the  entrance  is  the  College  cam- 
pus, on  the  N.  side  of  which  are  the  Professors'  houses 
(the  largest,  that  of  the  President,  stands  at  the  extreme 
N.W.  corner).  Facing  the  gateway,  at  the  eastern  end  of 
the  campus,  is  the  Gymnasium,  built  in  1881  at  a  cost  of 
$14,000.  The  interior  arrangement  was  planned  by  Dr.  D. 
A.  Sargent,  Director  of  the  Hemingway  Gymnasium  of  Har- 
vard University.     Fronting  the  S.  side  of  the  campus  is  the 


368  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

main  College  Building,  completed  in  1877,  at  a  cost  of 
approximately  $125,000. 

South  of  the  Coljege  Building,  and  structurally  con- 
nected with  it,  is  the  Chapel,  facing  Florida  Ave.  Diag- 
onally opposite  the  chapel  and  facing  it,  is  a  notable  statue-' 
group  in  bronze,  representing  Dr.  Thomas  H.  Gallaudet  of 
Hartford  teaching  his  little  friend,  Alice  Coggswell,  to  form 
the  letter  A.  Daniel  C.  French,  sculptor.  The  statue  was 
the  gift  of.  the  Deaf  of  the  United  States,  erected  in  1889. 

The  pedestal  is  inscribed :  "The  Deaf  People  of  the 
United  States,  in  grateful  remembrance  of  Thomas  Hop- 
kins Gallaudet,  mark  the  centennial  of  his  Birth  with  this 
Memorial,  1887" ;  "Erected  by  contributions  from  every  State, 
Territory  and  District  of  the  United  States." 

The  Institute  grounds  were  laid  out  by  Frederick  Law 
Olmsted.  The  architect  of  the  main  building,  chapel,  etc., 
was  F.  C.  Withers,  of  New  York. 


WASHINGTON  SOUTHEAST 

I.     The  Library  of  Congress 

**The  Congressional  Library  (PI.  Ill — F5)  on  the 
square  bounded  by  ist,  East  Capitol,  2d  and  B  Sts.,  S.  E., 
with  its  entrance  diagonally  opposite  that  of  the  Capitol,  is 
a  rectangular  structure  on  the  Italian  Renaissance  order  of  ar- 
chitecture, measuring  470  ft.  N.  to  S.  by  340  ft.  E.  to  W.  It 
consists  of  a  basement  and  two  upper  stories,  relieved  by  four 
corner  partitions,  and  two  central  pavilions,  on  the  W.  and  E. 
facades  respectively.  From  the  centre  of  the  rectangle  rises 
an  octagonal  rotunda  reinforced  by  massive  buttresses  and 
surmounted  by  a  copper  dome,  the  panels  of  which,  between 
the  green  ribs,  are  overlaid  with  22-carat  gold.  The  dome 
culminates  in  a  lantern  crowned  with  a  gilded  torch,  symbol- 
izing the  emitting  flame  of  knowledge.  The  building  oc- 
cupies zzA  acres  of  its  10-acre  cite,  and  contains  approx- 
imately 10  acres  of  floor  space  (430,255  sq.  ft).  It  was 
erected  under  Act  of  Congress  at  a  cost  of  $6,925,700,  in- 
cluding cost  of  land   ($585,000). 

It  was  begun  in  1886  from  plans  by  /.  /.  Smithmeyer 
and  Paul  Pels,  subsequently  modified  by  Edward  P. 
Casey.  In  1888  General  T.  L.  Casey,  Chief  of  Engineers, 
U.  S.  A.,  was  placed  in  charge,  with  Bernard  R.  Green  as 
superintendent  and  engineer.  The  building  was  completed  in 
Feb.,  1897,  and  opened  in  November. 

Hours.  The  Library  is  open  to  the  public  from  9  a.  m. 
to  10  p.m.  daily;  Sundays  and  holidays,  from  2  to  10  p.m.; 
closed  on  Christmas  and  Fourth  of  July. 

History.  The,  Library  of  Congress  was  established  by  the  "Act 
to  make  provision  for  the  removal:  and'  accomodation  of  the  Government 
of  the  United  States,"  approved  April  24,  1800,  which  carried  with  it 
an  appropriation  of  $5000  for  the  purchase  of  books.  In  Jan.,  1802 
John  Beckley  was  appointed  first  Librarian  of  Congress,  the  Library 
then  numbering  "212  folios,  164  quartos,  581  octavos,  7  duodecimos, 
and  9  maps."  During  the  War  of  1812  this  modest  collection  was 
destroyed.  It  had  been  housed  in  a  wooden  passageway  where  the 
"Rotunda  now  stands;  and  when  the  Capitol  was  burned  by  order  of 
Admiral  Cockburn,  the  books  were  used  as  kindling  for  the  North 
Wing.  Upon  learning  of  the  disaster1  Thomas  Jefferson,  then  living  in 
retirement  at  Monticello,  offered  to  the  Government  his  own  private 
library  of  6700  volumes  at  cost  price  ($23,700),  an  offer  which  was 
accepted  by  Congress.  Twice  again  the  Library  suffered  from  fire: 
on  Dec.   22,    1825,   and    much    more    seriously    on   Dec.    24,    1851,    when 


370  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

more  than  half  the  books,  including  two-thirds  of  the  Jefferson  collec- 
tion were!  destroyed,  In,  1864  Ainsworth  Rand  Spofford  was  appointed 
Librarian,  and  under  his  direction  the  Library  showed  an  amazing 
growth,  increasing  in  33  years  from  about  70,000  volumes  to  787,715 
vols.  This  was  in  large  measure  due  to  the  passage,  in  1870,  of  an 
amended  copyright  law  placing  the  entire  department  in  the  hands  of 
the  Librarian  of  Congress,  and  requiring  that  two  copies  of  every 
copyrighted  book  must  be  deposited  in  the  Library  of  Congress  to 
perfect  copyright,  Since  1897  the  collection  has  more  than  doubled, 
and  is  now  in  the  neighborhood  of  three1  million  printed!  books  and 
pamphlets  and  nearly  two  million  other  items.  The  present  Librarian 
is   Dr.    Herbert  Putnam,    appointed   1899. 

Resources.  In  addition  to  purchase  of  books  (for  which  there  is 
an  annual  appropriation  of  $98,000),  accessions  are  made  by  gift,  by 
copyright*  by  receipt  of  U.  '  S.  Government  documents,  by  international 
exchange  with  foreign  governments  and  by  additions!  to  the  Smithsonian 
deposit.  The  Library  is  rich  in  special  collections,  acquired  since 
1897.  The  Manuscript  Collection  is  of  first  importance  including  the 
Papers  of  fourteen  Presidents  (Washington,  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe, 
Jackson,  Van  Buran,  Tyler,  Polk,  Taylor,  Pierce,  Johnson,  Cleveland, 
Roosevelt  and  Taft) ;  of  American  Statesmen  and,  politicians  such  as: 
Benjamin  Franklin,  Robert  Morris,  Alexander  Hamilton,  John  M. 
Clayton,  Salmon  P.  Chase,  John  J.  Crittenden,  Edwin  M.  Stanton 
and  John  Sherman;  military  papers,  including  the  Pickett  papers  and 
those  of  Gen,  George  B.  McClellan  and  Gen.  W.  T.  Sherman;  and 
naval  papers,  including  those  of  Edward  Preble,  John  Rodgers,  David 
Porter  arid  John  Paul  Jones.  There  are  over  400  volumes  of  papers  of 
the  Continental  Congress,  papers  from  the  files  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives: Colonial  documentary  history;  Records  of  the  Virginia 
Company;  Spanish  papers  of  New  Mexico  and  Florida,  Philippine  and 
Guam  documents  and  upwards  of  100,000  folios  of  transcripts  of 
documents  relating  to  American  colonial  history.  Among  printed  books 
should  be  mentioned  the  Weber  Library  (Sanskrit  literature,  4020  vols.), 
Including  pamphlets;  Hattala  Library  (Slavic,  1500  vols.);  the  Yudin 
Library  (Russian,  80,000  vols.) ;  the  John  Boyd  Thacher  collection  of 
Incunabula  (deposited)"";  and  the  Deinard  collection  of  Hebraica  (10,000 
titles),  gift  of  Mr.  Jacob  H.  Schiff.  The  music  collection  is  the  most 
extensive  in  the  western  hemisphere.  The  prints  include  the  Gardner 
G.  Hubbard  collection;  the  Garrett  collection  (19,113  prints;  on  deposit) 
and  the  George  Lothrop   Bradley  colleation    (1980   engravings), 

l  a.     General  Description  and  Approaches 

This  Library  Building,  admittedly  one  of  the  most  artistic 
structures  in  America,  .both  within  and  without,  offers  the 
double  interest  of  being,  first,  the  home  of  America's  great 
National  Library,  already  one  of  the  great  libraries  of  the 
world ;  and  secondly,  a  treasure-house  of  the  best  con- 
temporary American  art  in  the  departments  of  sculpture  and 
mural  paintings.  From  the  central  rotunda  radiate  the  book- 
stacks,  dividing  the  interior  of  the  rectangle  into  four  courts, 
those  on  the  E.  side  measuring  150  x  100  ft,  and  those  on  the 
W.  150  x  75  ft.  It  may  interest  the  visitor  to  note  that  the 
main  life  of  the  library,  as  a  depository  and  circulating 
medium  for  books,  is  practically  confined  to  the  central  read- 
ing-room and  the  book-stacks,  and  that  all  the  corridors  and 


372  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

pavilions  of  the  enclosing  rectangle  might  be  swept  away 
without  seriously  incommoding  the  practical  book  service  of 
the  library. 

Exterior  Decorations.  The  main  or  western  facade  natu- 
rally claims  the  visitor's  chief  attention,  although  a  part  of  the 
scheme  of  sculptures  extends  around  all  four  sides.  The 
material  of  the  exterior  is  of  Concord  (N.  H.)  granite;  the 
buttresses  and  visible  walls  of  the  octagonal  rotunda  are  of 
gray  Maryland  granite.  The  basement  story  is  constructed 
of  rough  or  "rock-faced"  blocks ;  the  first  or  main  story  is 
more  finely  dressed  and  the  monotony  of  the  heavy  stone 
work  relieved  by  having  the  blocks  of  the  pavilion  corners 
dressed  with  vermiculations  or  "wormings."  The  granite  of 
the  second  story  is  smoothly  dressed. 

The  Central  Pavilion,  with  the  sweeping  approach  of  its 
double  staircase,  and  the  ordinance  of  eight  pairs  of  Ionic 
columns  on  the  second  elevation,  forms  the  main  external 
architectural  feature.  The  steps  of  the  main  entrance  are 
of  Troy  (N.  H.)  granite.  They  rise  on  N.  and  S.  from  the 
street  level  meeting  half-way  up  in  a  central  landing,  the 
flags  of  which  are  red  Missouri  granite.  The  W.  retaining 
wall  of  this  central  landing  forms  the  background  of  Roland 
Hint  on  Perry's 

*Neptune  Fountain. 

This  fountain,  directly  on  the  line  of  the  street,  is  the  first 
object  which  grips  the  visitor's  attention.  In  the  wall  behind 
the  semi-circular  basin  are  three  niches ;  the  central  one  is 
occcupied  by  a  colossal  bronze  figure  (12  ft.  high)  of  Neptune, 
God  of  the  Sea;  the  other  two  by  sea-nymphs  joyously  bestrid- 
ing plunging  sea-horses.  Neptune's  Realm  is  further  sym- 
bolized by  the  presence  of  a  bronze  sea-serpent  and  numerous 
bull-frogs  and  Florida  turtles. 

The  Dolphins,  carved  in  relief  at  either  side  of  the  niches, 
are  by  Albert  Weinert. 

Before  ascending  the  stairs  the  visitor  should  make  an 
outside  circuit  of  the  library,  in  order  to  study  its  most  im- 
portant external  sculptural  feature,  the  ^Ethnological  Heads 
carved  upon  the  keystones  of  the  thirty-three  arched  windows 
in  the  main  story  of  the  four  corner  and  E.  and  W.  central 
pavilions.  These  heads  were  modeled,  some  by  William 
Boyd,  and  others  by  Henry  J.  Ellicott,  with  the  assistance  of 
Prof.  Otis  T.  Mason  of  the  Department  of  Ethnology  in  the 
National  Museum.  Their  chief  interest  lies  in  the  pains  taken 
to  make  them  accurate,  and  all  the  necessary  data  were 
provided  by  the  resources  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  Many 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  373 

of  the  heads  (as  the  visitor  may  see  for  himself)  are  copied 
directly  from  the  habitat  groups  in  the  National  Museum. 
These  heads,  grouped  so  far  as  was  practicable  ac- 
cording to  racial  kinship,  are  placed  in  the  following  order, 
beginning  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Entrance  Pavilion  and  continu- 
ing S.,  and  then  E.,  etc.,  around  the  building: 

West  Central  Pavilion,  European  Types;  i.  Russian  Slav;  2.  Blonde 
European;    3.     Brunette    European:    4.    Modern    Greek. 

Southwest  Pavilion,  The  Nearer  East:  5.  Persian;  6.  Circassian; 
7.  Hindoo;  8.  Hungarian  (Magyar);  9.  Semite  (Jew);  10.  Arab 
(Bedouin). 

Southeast  Pavilion,  The  East,  continued  (Australasia):  n.  Turk; 
12.  Modern  Egyptian;  13.  Abyssinian;  14.  Malay;  15.  Polynesian;  16. 
Australian. 

East  Central  Pavilion,  Negro  Types:  17.  Negrito  (Indian  Archi- 
pelago); 18.  Zulu  (Bantu);  19.  Papuan  (New  Guinea);  20.  Soudan 
Negro;  21.  Akka  (Dwarf  African  Negro). 

Northeast  Pavilion,  Native  American  Types:  22.  Fuegian;  23. 
Botocudo  (South  America);  24.  Pueblo  (Zuni,  etc.);  25.  Esquimaux; 
26.    Plains    Indian    (Sioux,    Cheyenne,    etc.). 

Northwest  Pavilion,  Asiatic  Types:  27.  Samoyede  (Northern  Fin- 
land); 28.  Corean;  29.  Japanese;  30.,  Aino;  31.  Burmese;  2,2.  Thibetan; 
33.   Chinese. 

The  spacious  landing  at  the  top  of  the  granite  stairway 
rests  upon  an  arch  of  solid  masonry,  through  which  a  drive- 
way, running  N.  and  S.,  gives  access  to  the  basement  entrance. 
The  main  story  of  the  central  pavilion  contains  the  three 
archways  of  the  main  entrance.  The  second  story  consists 
of  a  colonnade  of  sixteen  Corinthian  columns,  grouped  in 
pairs.  Behind  them  are  a  double  row  of  windows, 
the  lower  rectangular,  and  the  upper  circular.  In 
front  of  these  upper  windows  (which  are  nine  in  number, 
including  the  two  side  windows  on  N.  and  S.  respectively)  are 
placed  a  series  of  granite  portrait  busts,  colossal  size,  of  the 
world's  great  writers,  which  are  thrown  into  sharp  relief  by 
the  dark  background  of  the  glass.  From  N.  to  S.  these  busts 
and  their  sculptors  are  as  follows :  1.  Demosthenes,  by  Her- 
bert Adams  (1858-  )  ;  2.  Emerson,  by  /.  Scott  Hartley; 
3.  Irving,  by  Hartley;  4.  Goethe,  by  Frederick  W.  Ruck- 
stuhl  (1853-  )  ;  5.  Franklin,  by  Ruckstuhl;  6.  Macaulay, 
by  Ruckstuhl;  7.  Hawthorne,  by  Hartley;  8.  Scott,  by  Adams; 
9.  Dante,  by  Adams. 

The  pediments  of  the  central  pavilion  are  supported  by 
four  granite  Atlantes,  colossal  size.  In  the  pediment  are 
sculptured  American  eagles  with  supporting  figures  of  chil- 
dren. These,  as  well  as  the  keystones  of  the  circular  win- 
dows with  standing  winged  cherubs,  are  all  sculptured  by 
William  Boyd. 


374  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Over  the  three  entrance  arches  are  sculptured,  in  low- 
relief,  three  pairs  of  symbolic  female  figures,  typifying  Lit- 
erature, Science  and  Art:  (from  N.  to  S.)  I.  Literature:  on 
L..  Creative  Work;  on  R.,  Meditation;  2.  Science:  on  L., 
female  figure  with  torch  and  scroll ;  on  R.,  female  figure 
with  celestial  globe;  3.  Art:  on  L.,  Architecture  with  mallet 
and   Doric    capital ;    on   R.,   Painting   with  palette   and  brush. 

The  three  pairs  of  massive  *Bronze  Doors  in  the  main 
entrances  are  designed  to  cover  symbolically  the  entire  his- 
tory of  recorded  knowledge,  from  the  primitive  oral  trans- 
mission to  the  invention  of  the  printing-press.  They  are  as 
follows : 

1.  North  Door,  by  Olin  L.  Warner  (d.  1896).  The  lu- 
nette represents  Tradition,  symbolized  by  a  woman  of  the 
primeval  age  recounting  to  a  child  the  traditions  of  her  race. 
Around  her  are  grouped  representatives  of  four  primitive 
peoples,  accustomed  to  hand  down  their  traditions  orally: 
(L.  to  R.)  1.  Shepherd,  with  crook,  typifying  Pastoral  Races; 
2.  Norseman,  with  winged  cap  and  battle-axe;  3.  Man  of 
the  Stone  Age,  with  crude  stone  axe;  4.  American  Indian, 
with  arrows  (modeled  from  Chief  Joseph,  of  the  Nez- 
Perces).  The  panels  in  the  valves  of  the  door  consist  of 
symbolic  female  figures  depicting  respectively:  (L.)  Imagina- 
tion, with  lyre;  (R.)  Memory,  mourning  her  dead  whose  hel- 
met and  sword  she  holds. 

The  visitor  should  note  the  profuse  bas-relief  carvings  in  the  stone 
work  surrounding  the  entrance  doors,  of  which  no  two  are  alike.  The 
decorations  c.f  the  N.  door  consist  mainly  of  grape  vines,  ivy  and  Indian 
maize. 

2.  Central  Door,  by  .Frederick  W.  MacMonnies  (1863-  ). 
The  lunette  represents  the  Art  of  Printing.  Minerva,  god- 
dess of  learning,  is  sending  forth  her  winged  messengers  bear- 
ing books  to  all  the  world.  To  R.  and  L.  are  the  owl  of 
wisdom,  the  stork,  emblematic  of  home,  a  Pegasus,  represent- 
ing poetry,  and  an  old-fashioned  printing-press.  The  in- 
scribed legend  is  "Homage  to  Gutenberg"  (inventor  of  print- 
ing, 1400-68).  In  panels  of  valves  below  are  two  stately  fe- 
male figures  almost  identical  except  for  the  facial  expres- 
sions, and  personifying  respectively:  (R.)  "Intellectus" ;  (L.) 
"Hwmanitas." 

3.  South  Door,  by  Olin  L.  Warner.  The  lunette  sym- 
bolizes the  Art  of  Writing,  in  the  form  of  a  mother  instruct- 
ing her  children  from  a  written  scroll.  Grouped  around 
her  are  representatives  of  four  races  whose  written  records 
are  conspicuous  in  history:    (L.  to  R.)    1.  Greek,  with  lyre; 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  37<5 

2.  Christian,  with  cross ;  3.  A  Jewish  Patriarch ;  4.  Egyp-* 
tian  Scribe  with  stylus.  Below  on  valves  of  door:  (L.> 
Truth,  with  mirror  and  serpent;  (R.)  Research,  holding  torch* 
The  R.  valve  is  inscribed :  "Begun  by  Olin  Warner  who 
died  1896.  Completed  by  Herbert  Adams.  John  Williams, 
founder,  N.  Y." 

Vestibule.  Entering  the  door,  the  visitor  finds  himself 
in  the  vestibule,  or  western  corridor  of  the  Main  Entrance 
Hall,  which,  like  the  rest  of  the  hall,  is  finished  throughout 
in  white  Italian  marble.  On  the  pilasters  of  the  western 
wall,  and  also  on  the  marble  piers,  supporting  the  arches 
which  sustain  the  galleries  above,  are  massive  brackets  sus- 
taining repeated  pairs  of  figures  representing  Minerva  in  her 
two  capacities  as  Goddess  of  War  (with  sword  and  torch), 
and  Goddess  of  Wisdom  (with  scroll  and  globe),  Herbert 
Adams,  sculptor.  Note  the  electric  lamp  standard  between 
each  pair,  modeled  after  a  Greek  altar.  These  statues,  as 
well  as  the  lavish  ornamentation  of  the  ceiling,  are  of  stucco. 
The  abundant  gilding  of  the  ceiling  is  of  22-carat  gold. 

The  checking  desk  for  umbrellas,  parcels  and  cameras  is  on 
R.  of  entrance.  Women's  cloak  room  and  lavatory,  under  S, 
stairway.  Men's  lavatory  in  the  basement,  N.  E.  cor.  of 
entrance  pavilion.  There  is  an  excellent  Restaurant  on  the 
upper  floor.    Take  elevator. 

b.     The  Main  Entrance  Hall 

**Main  Entrance  Hall.  This  hall,  occupying,  with  its 
surrounding  corridors,  the  whole  of  the  W.  central  pavilion, 
approximately  125x100  ft.,  is  one  of  the  most  lavish  and  im- 
pressive entrance  halls  in  any  building  in  the  world.  The 
central  portion  is  open  to  the  roof,  a  height  of  J2  ft.  It  is  an 
almost  square  rectangle,  surrounded  on  all  four  sides  by 
massive  piers  and  arches,  which  sustain  the  galleries  of  the 
second  floor.  Here  the  piers  are  replaced  by  lofty  Corinthian 
columns,  grouped  in  pairs,  sustaining  the  cornice  and  the  huge 
skylight  of  the  ceiling.  One  feature  which  should  not  be 
missed,  in  spite  of  the  distracting  appeal  of  the  countless  fres- 
coes and  sculptures  on  all  sides,  is  the  beautiful  marble  floor 
of  the  central  hall.  Directly  in  the  centre  is  inlaid  a  huge 
conventionalized  sun  of  polished  brass,  whose  diverging  rays 
point  to  the  twelve  brass  Signs  of  the  Zodiac,  also  inlaid  in  a 
huge  square  skirting  the  walls  of  the  hall.  The  floor  itself 
consists  of  a  rich  variety  of  marbles,  arranged  in  geometric 
patterns,  and  including:  White  Italian  marble,  Brown  Ten- 
nessee, Red  French,  Red  Verona  and  Yellow  Sienna. 


376  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

On  the  N.  and  S.  sides  of  this  central  court  spacious 
Marble  Stairways  ascend  from  W.  to  E.,  broken  midway  by 
a  first  landing,  and  again,  near  the  top,  by  a  second,  where 
the  stairs  turn  respectively  N.  and  S.  'ine  sculptures  on  the 
balustrades  of  these  stairways  are  the  most  unique  feature  of 
the  decorations,  and  the  chief  focus  of  interest  to  a  majority 
erf  visitors.  The  sculptor,  Philip  Martiny  (1858-  ),  con- 
ceived the  whimsical  idea  of  symboling  the  *Trades,  Crafts 
and  Professions  of  modern  civilization  by  a  series  of  charm- 
ingly executed  figures  of  little  children  in  high-relief,  each 
with  the  attributes'  of  the  calling  that  he  represents.  This 
series  (which,  it  should  be  noted,  is  interrupted  at  the  stair 
landings  by  other  analogous  figures  to  be  described  later) 
are  as  follows: 

South  Stairway.  1.  Mechanic,  with  cog-wheel:  2.  Hunter,  with 
gun,  holding  rabbit  by  ears;  3.  Vintager,  with  grapes  and  wine-glass: 
4.  Farmer,  with  sickle  and  sheaf  of  wheat;  5.  Fisherman,  with  rod  and 
fish;  6.  Warrior,  with  helmet  and  breast -plate;  7.  Chemist,  with  blow- 
pipe:   8.  Cook,  with  tea-pot. 

North  Stairway.  9.  Gardener,  with  spade  and  rake;  10.  Naturalist, 
with  specimen  box  and  butterfly-net;  11.  Student  with  mortar-board 
cap  and  book;  12.  Printer,  with  composing  stick  and  printing-press  (note 
the  Gutenberg  cap) ;  13.  Musician,  wearing  laurel  wreath,  with  lyre 
and  musical  score;  14.  Physician,  with  pestle  and  mortar;  15.  Electri- 
cian, with  coil  of  wire  and  holding  telephone  to  ear  (note  that  the  dis- 
ordered hair  has  been  intentionally  so  wrought  as  to  suggest  a  bunch 
of  thunderbolts);    16.  Astronomer,  with  celestial  globe  and  compasses. 

On  the  buttresses,  supporting  the  midway  landings,  are 
pairs  of  similar  child  figures,  representing  the  Four  Conti- 
nents; (S.  side)  America,  with  Indian  feathered  headdress 
and  necklace  of  wampum;  and  Africa,  wooley-headed,  with 
necklace  of  wild  animals'  teeth.  Between  them  is  a  globe 
turned  to  show  their  respective  continents.  ('N.  side)  Asia, 
with  a  dragon-vase  (suggesting  her  high  development  in  the 
ceramics)  ;  and  Europe,  with  lyre,  book  and  column  (sug- 
gesting her  leadership  in  the  liberal  arts).  Between  them  is 
globe,  showing  Eastern  Hemisphere. 

On  the  (balustrade  of  each  upper  landing  is  a  group  of 
three  children :  S.  side,  Comedy,  Poetry,  Tragedy ;  N.  side. 
Painting,  Architecture  and  sculpture,  each  distinguished  by 
appropriate  attributes. 

The  Commemorative  Arch.  On  E.  side  of  the  Staircase 
Hall  is  a  portico  opening  upon  the  passage  to  the  Reading 
Room,  and  serving  as  a  sort  of  triumphal  arch,  commem- 
orating the  erection  of  the  Library.  In  the  spandrels  of  the 
arch  are  The  Students,  by  Olin  L.  Warner,  two  sculptured 
figures  typifying  the  development  of  the  scholar's  mind.     On 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  377 

L.  is  a  youth  seeking  knowledge  from  books ;  on  R.  is  an 
old  man  absorbed  in  meditation  upon  knowledge  already 
acquired.  Along  the  frieze,  inscribed  in  gilt  letters,  are  the 
words  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS.  In  the  marble  tablet 
forming  center  of  the  parapet  above  is  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : 

Erected  Under   the    Acts  of    Congress   of 

April  15    1886  October  2   1888  and  March  2  1889  by 

Brig.    Gen.    Thos.    Lincoln    Casey 

Chief  of  Engineers  U.   S.  A. 

Bernard  R.   Green    Supt.  and  Engineer 

John   L.    Smithmeyer  Architect 

Paul   J.   Pelz  Architect 
Edward    Pearce   Casey    Architect 

c.     The  Mural  Paintings 

The  **Mural  Paintings,  Mosaics  and  Symbolic  Orna- 
mentations on  the  walls  and  ceilings  of  the  main  floor  of  the 
Library  will  be  found  not  only  in  the  North,  South  and  West 
corridors  of  the  Entrance  Hall,  but  also  in  the  Vestibule  to 
Main  Reading  Room,  the  North  and  South  Curtain  Cor- 
ridors, the  House  and  Senate  Reading  Rooms  and  the  north- 
west Pavilion. 

Entrance  Hall,  North  Corridor:  Seven  Lunette  Murals, 
by  Charles  S.  Pearce,  idealizing  the  Pleasures  and  Duties  of 
a  quiet  and  uplifting  Family  Life. 

East  Wall:  1.  The  Family,  group  of  seven  figures  in  Arcadian 
setting;  the  father  has  just  returned  from  hunting;  his  little  daughter 
and  young  wife  with  child  in  her  arms  advance  to  meet  him,  while  on 
R.  and  L.  are  his  sister  and  aged  parents.  South  Wall  (immediately 
adjoining)  :  2.  Rest,  two  young  girls  with  water-jugs,  seated  beside  a 
pool;  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  3.  Recreation,  two  young  girls,  the  one 
seated,  playing  on  Panpipes,  the  other  with  cymbals,  dancing;  4. 
Study:  two  young  girls  seated,  with  books,  scrolls  and  compasses;  6. 
Religion:  a  man  and  women  kneeling  before  a  rude  stone  altar,  trom 
whicn  rises   the  smoke   of   a   burnt-offering. 

West  End  Wall :  Two  floating  female  figures  in  white 
drapery,  supporting  a  tablet  bearing  the  following  aphorism 
from  Confucius :  "Give  instruction  to  those  who  cannot  pro- 
cure it  for  themselves." 

The  Mosaic  Ceilings  in  this  and  the  other  corridors  sur- 
rounding the  Entrance  Hall  contain  an  Honor  List  of  men 
illustrious  in  their  several  vocations.  The  Mosaics  were  all 
made  from  cartoons  by  Herman  T.  Schladermundt  (b.  1863), 
after  designs  by  E.  P.  Casey. 

The  North  Corridor  Ceiling  is  devoted  to  the  Great 
Educators.  Through  the  center  of  the  ceiling  are  com- 
memorated,   in    logical    sequence,    from    E.    to    W.,    the    four 


378  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

great  formative  influences:  I.  Science,  which  beginning  with 
the  discovery  of  fire,  laid  the  foundation  of  civilized  life ; 
2.  The  Family,  where  in  primitive  times  the  child  received 
his  only  training;  3.  Education,  the  systematic  discipline  of 
the  school;  4.  Art,  embracing  those  forms  of  higher  culture 
for  which  the  earlier  training  has  prepared  the  student.  The 
several  branches  of  science  and  art  here  enumerated  are 
respectively:  Mathematics,  Chemistry,  Geology,  Physics  and 
Astronomy;  Painting,  Sculpture,  Architecture,  Poetry  and 
Music. 

In  the  curves  of  the  vaulting  are  inscribed  the  names 
of  ten  Educators,  as  follows:  S.  side  (E.  to  W.)  1.  Howe; 
2.  Gallaudet;  3.  Mann;  4.  Arnold;  5.  Spencer;  N.  side  (W. 
to  E.)  6.  Froebel;  7.  Pestalozzi;  8.  Rousseau;  9.  Comenius  ; 
10.  Ascham. 

North  Curtain  Corridor,  entered  from  N.  E.  cor.  of  pre- 
ceding corridor,  and  extending  N.  along  N.  W.  inner  court, 
contains  nine  Lunette  Paintings  by  Edward  Simmons,  represent- 
ing the  Nine  Muses.  The  visitor  should  note  especially  the 
bold  color-scheme  of  these  murals  and  the  transition  from 
the  glowing  red  of  the  first,  to  the  splendid  blue  of  the  last 
of  the  series.  On  W.  side  of  corridor,  beneath  the  odd- 
numbered  lunettes,  are  doors  opening  into  administration 
offices.  In  the  wall-spaces  beneath  the  alternate  lunettes  are 
inscribed  verses  by  Alexander  Pope. 

South  End  Wall  (over  entrance  door)  :  1.  Melpomene, 
Muse  of  Tragedy,  clad  in  vivid  red  and  with  tragic  mask; 
she  is  flanked  by  two  small  genii  bearing  laurel  wreath  and 
burning  brazier;  West  Wall  (from  S.  to  N.)  :  2.  Clio,  Muse 
of  History,  with  torch  and  wreathed  helmet,  symbols  of  fame 
and^  heroic  deeds;  3.  Thalia,  Muse  of  Comedy;  she  is  accom- 
panied by  a  youthful  satyr  with  Pan's-pipes,  and  flanked  by 
wreaths  of  daisies ;  below  are  the  lines : 

"Descend,    ye    Nine,    descend    and    sing; 
Wake    into    voice    each    silent    string." 
4.  Euterpe,  Muse  of  Lyric  Poetry,  as  symbolized  by  her  attri- 
bute, a  flute ;  5.  Terpsichore,  Muse  of  the  Choral  Dance ;  she 
is   represented  as   clashing  cymbols   and   dancing  within   the 
curve  of  a  white  marble  exedra.     Below  is  the  couplet: 

"Oh,    Heaven-born    sister,    source    ot    art, 
Who  charm  the  sense  or  mend  tne  heart." 

6.  Erato,  Muse  of  Erotic  Poetry,  a  seated  female  figure,  hold- 
ing a  white  rose;  beside  her  is  a  recumbent  lioness,  symbol 
of   the   power    of    woman's    love;    7.    Polvhymnia,    Muse    of 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  370 

Sacred  Song;  she  holds  in  her  lap  an  open  illuminated  text; 
beside  her  are  wreaths  of  Easter  lilies;  below  are  the  fol- 
lowing lines : 

"Say,  will  you  bless  the  bleak  Atlantic  Shore, 
And    in  the  West   bid   Athens   rise   once    more?" 

8.  Urania,  Muse  of  Astronomy,  a  seated  figure  in  a  dusky 
robe  brocaded  with  gold  suggesting  the  glimmer  of  stars ; 
her  attributes  are  a  sextant  and  a  celestial  globe;  North  End 
Wall:  9.  Calliope,  Muse  of  Epic  Poetry;  she  is  clad  in  a  robe 
of  vivid  peacock  blue  and  her  attributes  are  a  scroll  and  pea- 
cock  feathers. 

The  door  beneath  the  Calliope  lunette  leads  into  the 
Northwest  Pavilion;  which  contains  an  exhibition  of  maps 
and  charts.  This  room,  in  shape  an  irregular  octagon,  is 
finished  in  deep  Pompeiian  red.  The  six  window-bays  on  the 
N.  and  W.  sides  are  decorated  with  the  twelve  signs  of  the 
zodiac,  by  Mills  Thompson.  The  six  corresponding  panels 
on  the  E.  and  S.  walls,  together  with  the  four  panels  on  the 
four  narrow  diagonal  walls  that  cut  off  the  corners  of  an 
otherwise  square  chamber,  contain  a  series  of  ten  floating, 
white-draped  figures  of  Roman  Dancing  Girls,  by  William 
de  Leftwich  Dodge. 

The  Division  of  Maps  and  Charts  occupies  the  North 
Hall,  reached  through  the  E.  door  of  the  Pavilion. 

Retracing  his  steps,  the  visitor  should  next  proceed  to : 

Entrance  Hall,  South  Corridor,  containing  a  series  of 
murals  celebrating  Lyric  Poetry,  by  Henry  Oliver  Walker 
(b.  1843).  The  series  includes  one  dominant  painting.  The 
Muse  of  Lyric  Poetry,  and  six  smaller  murals  consisting  of 
idealized  presentments  of  some  of  the  more  famous  Poets' 
Boys. 

East  End  Wall :  Euterpe,  Muse  of  Lyric  Poetry,  stands 
laurel-crowned  in  the  midst  of  her  attendants.  On  her  R. 
are  Passion,  with  uplifted  arm ;  Beauty,  seated,  serene  in  her 
self-satisfaction ;  and  Mirth,  a  merry,  childish  figure ;  on  L. 
are  Pathos,  with  eyes  raised  to  Heaven ;  Truth,  a  standing 
figure  completely  nude ;  and  Devotion,  kneeling  with  bowed 
head. 

The  Poets'  Boys:  North  Wall  (E.  to  W.):  i.  Milton's  Comus, 
depicting  the  enchanter,  Comus,  in  the  guise  of  a  shepherd  seated  in 
the  woods  with  finger  on  lip,  entranced  at  hearing  the  song  of  the  Lady. 
The   picture   is   based    on   the   lines: 

"Can    any    mortal    mixture    of    earth's    mould 
Breathe  such  divine,  enchanting  ravishment?" 


38o  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

2.  Shakespeare's  Adonis  (in  "Venus  and  Adonis"),  beloved  of  Venus, 
?ies  naked  on  the  ground,  slain  by  a  wild  boar;  South  Wall  (E.  to  W.)l 
j.  Tennyson's  Ganymede  (in  "Palace  of  Art"),  the  boy,  who  is  to 
replace  Hebe  as  cup-bearer  of  the  gods,  gazes  heavenward  as  he  is  borne 
toward  Olympus  on  the  back  of  Jupiter  in  the  guise  of  an  eagle;  the 
lines   which   suggest  this  picture   are: 

"Flushed  Ganymede,  his  rosy  thigh 
Half-buried  in  the  Eagle's  down, 
Sole  as  a  flying  star  shot  thro'   the  sky 
Above  the  pillar'd  town." 

4.  Keat's  Endymion,  the  boy  beloved  of  Diana,  asleep  on  Mt.  Latmos 
beneath  the  rays  of  the  crescent  moon;  5.  Wordsworth's  Boy  of  Wynan- 
der,  seated  beside  the  lake  with  hands  clasped  about  his  knee,  and  eyes 
fixed  in  wrapt  attention;  6.  Emerson's  Uriel  (in  "The  Lapse  of  Uriel"), 
representing  the  audacious  angel  where  he  has  retired  in  scorn  and 
anger  because  of  the  hostility  with  which  his  companions  had  received 
his  proposition: 

"Line   in    nature    is    not    found; 
Unit  and  universe  are  round; 
In  vain  produced,  all  rays  return; 
Evil    will    bless,    and    ice    will    burn." 

West  End  Wall:  This  semi-circular  mural  above  the 
window  arch  is  an  idealized  presentment  of  Joy  and  Memory. 
Joy  is  attended  by  a  boy  with  a  lamb.  Memory  sits  brood- 
ing before  a  sculptured  marble.  Between  these  groups  are 
inscribed  the  following  lines  from  Wordsworth : 

"The    Poets    who    on    earth    have    made    us    heirs 
Of   truth    and   pure   delight   by    heavenly   lays." 

In  the  Mosaic  of  the  vault  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the  World's 
Great  Lyric  Poets.  The  six  occupying  the  N.  side  penetrations  are 
Americans:    (E.   to   W.)  :    1.   Poe;   2.   Whitman;    3.    Bryant;    4.   Whittier; 

5.  Lowell;  6.  Longfellow.  In  the  S.  penetrations  (E.  to  W.)  are:  7. 
Heine;  8.  Hugo;  9.  Musset;  10.  Byron;  11.  Shelley;  12.  Browning. 
In  the  center  of  the  ceiling  are  eight  Poets  of  the  Classic  period  and 
the  Renaissance:  13.  Pindar;  14.  Theocritus;  15.  Anacreon;  16.  Sappho; 
17.   Catullus;    18.   Horace;    19.   Petrarch;   20.   Ronsard. 

South  Curtain  Corridor.  The  windows  of  this  corridor 
face  the  S.  W.  inner  court.  It  leads  to  the  House  and  Senate 
Reading  Rooms,  and  to  the  Periodical  Room  in  the  S.  hall. 
The  murals  in  this  corridor  comprise  a  series  of  nine  lunettes 
representing  The  Greek  Heroes,  by  Walter  McEwen  (b. 
i860). 

North  End  Wall:  1.  Paris,  son  of  Priam,  King  of  Troy,  is  here 
represented  when  visiting  at  the  Court  of  Menelaus,  King  of  Sparta, 
whose  wife,  Helen,  has  been  promised  him  by  Venus  as  a  recompense 
for  awarding  to  her,  as  most  beautiful  of  goddesses,  the  Apple  of  Dis- 
cord. His  subsequent  abduction  of  Helen  precipitated  the  Trojan  War, 
the   theme   of   Homer's   Iliad. 

East  Wall:  2.  Jason:  Pelias,  King  of  Iolchos,  warned  by  an  oracle 
to  beware  of  his  nephew  Jason,  sends  the  latter  across  the  sea  to  Colchis, 
in  search  of  the  Golden  Fleece,  which  hung  in  a  grove  sacred  to  Mars, 
guarded   by   a  sleepless   dragon.      In   the  mural  Jason  is   depicted  when 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  381 

urging  other  Grecian  heroes  to  form  members  of  his  famous  band  of 
"Argonauts."  Beneath  this  lunette  is  the  following  quotation  from 
Tennyson's  "Ulysses": 

"One    equal    temper    of    heroic    hearts, 
Made  weak  by  time  and  fate,  but  strong  in  will 
To  strive,  to  seek,  to  find,  and  not  to  yield." 

No.  3.  Bellcrophon:  Proteus,  King  of  Argos,  disliking  his  kins- 
man, plans  to  have  him  slain,  and  indirectly  sends  him  to  destroy  a  horri- 
ble monster  known  as  the  Chimaera.  The  artist  has  depicted  Bellcrophon 
receiving  from  Minerva  a  golden  bridle  with  which  he  subsequently 
guides  the  winged  horse  Pegasus  to  a  successful  termination  of  his 
errand. 

No.  4.  Orpheus:  Bacchus,  angered  because  Orpheus  refused  to 
worship  him,  inflamed  his  priestesses,  the  Bacchantes,  to  attack  the 
poet.  The  artist  has  depicted  the  death  of  Orpheus  during  a 
Bacchanalian  orgy.  Below  is  the  following  quotation  from  Tennyson's 
"Guinevere": 

"A    glorious    company,    the     flower    of    men 
To  serve  as  model   for  the   mighty  world, 
And  be  the  fair  beginning  of  a  time." 

No.  5.  Perseus:  King  Polydectes,  madly  in  love  with  Danae, 
mother  of  Perseus,  sent  the  latter  to  slay  the  gorgoii  Medusa,  whose 
face  turned  to  stone  everyone  who  looked  upon  it.  The  picture  shows 
Perseus  rescuing  his  mother  from  a  forced  marriage  with  Polydectes 
by  exhibiting  the  severed  head  of  Medusa  in  the  Court  dining-room, 
and   turning  the   whole  company  to   stone. 

No.  6.  Prometheus:  Jupiter,  wishing  to  avenge  the  theft  by 
Prometheus  of  fire  from  heaven,  created  Pandora,  the  first  woman,  and 
sent  her  to  earth  laden  with  a  box  containing  all  human  ills.  Prome- 
theus is  here  depicted  vainly  warning  his  brother,  Epimetheus  against 
accepting  Pandora  as  his  bride.  Beneath  this  lunette  is  the  following 
quotation  from  Charles  Kingsley: 

"To  the  souls  of  fire,  I,  Pallas  Athena,  give  more  fire;  and  to  those 
who  are  manful,  a  might  more  than  man's." 

No.  7.  Theseus.  Through  the  aid  of  Ariadne,  daughter  of  Minos, 
King  of  Crete,  Theseus  accomplished  his  task  of  slaying  the  savage 
monster,  Minotaur,  confined  in  a  Labyrinth,  to  which  Athens  had  been 
for  years  forced  to  send  an  annual  tribute  of  youths  and  maidens. 
After  fulfilling  his  mission  Theseus  bore  Ariadne  away  with  him  to  the 
Island  of  Naxos  where,  as  depicted  in  this  mural,  he  deserted  her  at 
the  command  of  Minerva. 

No.  8.  Achilles:  Thetis,  the  mother  of  Achilles,  having  been 
forewarned  that  her  son  would  meet  an  early  death,  sent  him  to 
Lycomedes  to  be  clothed  and  reared  as  a  maiden.  At  the  outbreak  of 
the  Trojan  War  the  Greeks  were  informed  by  an  oracle  that  the  city 
could  be  taken  only  through  the  aid  of  Achilles.  The  crafty  Ulysses, 
disguised  as  a  pedlar,  and  bearing  among  his  wares  feminine  trinkets 
and  weapons  of  war,  discovers  Achilles  when  the  latter  impulsively 
chooses  a  sword  and  shield.  Beneath  this  mural  are  inscribed  the  follow- 
ing lines  from  Byron's   "Childe   Harold": 

"Ancient  of  days!  august  Athena! 
Where  are  thy  men  of  might?  thy  grand  in  soul? 
Gone — glimmering  through  the   dream   of  things  that  were.'' 

South  End  Wall:  No.  g.  Hercules,  The  Hero  of  Seven  Labors, 
having  killed  a  man,  was  sold  as  a  slave  to  Omphale,  Queen  of  Lydia. 
He  became  so  completely  enamored  of  her  that,  to  meet  her  caprice,  he 
wore  female  gaiments  and  spun  among  the  female  slaves,  as  here  de- 
picted by  the  artist. 


382  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  Representatives'  Reading  Room,  one  of  the  most 
favishly  ornamented  rooms  in  the  Library,  extends  along  the 
VV.  side  of  the  Hall  of  Greek  Heroes,  from  which  it  opens 
through  three  doors,  situated  respectively  beneath  Belle- 
rophon,  Perseus  and  Theseus.  Over  these  doors,  on  inner 
side,  are  richly  carved  oak  tympanums,  each  with  a  central 
cartouche;  that  of  the  central  door  bears  Minerva's  owl, 
flanked  on  either  side  by  seated  youths ;  the  cartouches  over 
side  doors  display  the  American  eagle,  oetween  two  cherubs. 
Charles  B.  Niehaus,  sculptor. 

The  chief  single  attractions  in  this  room  are  the  two  su- 
perb mantels  at  the  opposite  ends.  They  are  mainly  of  yellow 
Sienna  marble,  but  the  Ionic  columns  supporting  the  heavy 
cornice  are  of  richly  veined  gray  Pavannazzo  marble.  Note 
especially  in  center  of  cornice  a  small  cartouche  of  peacock- 
blue  Labrador  spar,  in  N.  mantel,  and  of  green  onyx,  in  S. 
mantel.  Over  each  fire-place,  flanked  by  the  columns,  is  a 
large  mosaic  panel,  7^2  ft.  wide  and  approximately  3JA  ft. 
high,  made  in  Venice,  from  cartoons  by  Frederick  Dielman 
(b.  1847). 

The  North  Mantel  Panel  represents  The  Law.  Enthroned  in  the 
center  sits  the  Majesty  of  the  Law,  personified  as  a  beautiful  woman, 
with  head  surrounded  by  a  halo.  In  her  right  hand  she  holds  a  palm 
branch,  the  'reward  of  merit;  in  her  left,  an  avenging  sword.  Her 
other  attributes  are  a  law-book,  the  scales  of  justice  and  a  pair  of  doves, 
symbolizing  Mercy.  On  her  right  are  Truth,  holding  lilies;  Peace, 
with  olive-branch;  Industry,  with  wheel  and  hammer;  on  her  left  are 
Fraud,  a  wrinkled  crone;  Discord,  with  disheveled  hair,  and  holding 
knotted  serpents;  and  sullen  Violence,  wearing  a  steel  cap,  while  beside 
him  flames  the  torch  of  Anarchy. 

The  South  Mantel  Panel  typifies  History.  She  is  a  commanding 
figure,  holding  a  pen  and  a  book,  and  stands  between  two  tablets,  on 
which  are  enrolled  the  names  of  great  historians:  West  Tablet, 
Herodotus,  Thucydides,  Polybius,  Livy,  Tacitus,  Baeda,  Comines; 
East  Tablet,  Hume,  Gibbon,  Niebuhr,  Guizot,  Ranke,  Bancroft,  Motley. 
At  the  foot  of  each  tablet  is  a  wreath,  the  one  of  laurel,  the  other  of 
oak  leaves,  respective  symbols  of  Peace  and  War.  Seated  on  R.  and  L. 
of  History  are  two  sybilline  figures,  Mythology  and  Tradition:  the  former 
with  winged  Sphynx  and  globe,  expounds  the  old  myths  of  the  world's 
creation,  the  latter  relates  to  a  young  boy  the  legendary  tales  of  the 
Middle  Ages.  In  the  background  may  be  seen:  1.  (behind  History)  a 
Grecian  Temple;  2.  (behind  Mythology)  an  Egyptian  Pyramid;  3.  (be- 
hind  Tradition)    a   Roman   Amphitheatre. 

The  Seven  Ceiling  Paintings  represent  The  Spectrum  of 
Light,  by  Carl  Gutherz.  In  the  center  of  each  panel  is  a 
figure  symbolizing  some  great  achievement;  the  dominant 
color  tone  in  each  case  being  one  of  the  seven  primary 
colors.  At  the  four  corners  of  each  panel  are  pairs  of  cher- 
ubs, symbolizing  the  various  arts  and  sciences.  The  order 
of   the   subjects   and   colors   as   planned  by  the  artist  begins 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  383 

with  the  middle  panel,  yellow;  proceeds  S.  through  orange, 
red  and  violet,  then  N.  from  centre  through  green,  blue 
and  indigo.  For  practical  purposes,  however,  it  is  simpler 
to  take  them  in  their  natural  order  upon  the  ceiling : 

(S.  to  N.)  1.  Violet,  the  Light  of  State.  The  central  figure  is 
Columbia,  symbolizing  the  United  States  as  the  ideal  form  of  govern- 
ment, whose  National  colors,  red,  white  and  blue  unite  to  form  violet. 
Cherubs  in  corners:   I.  Justice;  2.  Liberty;  3.   Equality;   4.   Suffrage. 

No.  2.  Red,  the  Light  of  Poetry.  Central  figure,  the  Spirit  of 
Poetry  mounted  upon  Pegasus.  Cherubs  in  corners:  1.  Tragedy  and 
Comedy;    2.    Lyric   Poetry;    3.    Pastoral    Poetry;    4.    Fable. 

No.  3.  Orange,  the  Light  of  Excellence.  Central  figure,  Progress, 
ascending  the  steps  of  a  pryamid.  Cherubs  in  corners:  1.  Sculpture  and 
Architecture;  2.  Transportation;  3.  Telephone  and  Phonograph;  4.  In- 
vention  and    Design. 

No.  4.  Yellow,  the  Light  of  Creation.  Central  figure,  the  Spirit 
of  the  Lord,  who,  from  the  midst  of  clouds,  issues  the  command,  "Let 
there  be  Light."  Cherubs  in  corners:  1.  Physics;  2.  Metaphysics;  3. 
Psychology;   4.   Theology. 

No.  5.  Green,  the  Light  of  Research.  Central  figure,  the  Spirit 
of  the  Lens,  surrounded  by  the  sea,  whose  teeming  life  affords  her  an 
infinite  field  of  investigation.  Cherubs  in  corners:  1.  Microscopy;  2. 
Chemistry;   3.  Archaeology;   4.   Mineralogy. 

No.  6.  Blue,  the  Light  of  Truth.  Central  figure,  the  Spirit  of 
Truth  trampling  upon  the  Dragon  of  Ignorance.  Cherubs  in  corners: 
symbolize  the  Universal  Law  by  attributes  of  the  level,  the  plumb-line, 
etc. 

No.  7.  Indigo,  the  Light  of  Science.  Central  figure.  Astronomy, 
studying  the  stars  under  the  guidance  of  the  soul,  personified  as  a  but- 
terfly.    All  the  corner  cherubs  have  astronomical  attributes. 

Through  the  S.  door  of  the  corridor  we  enter  a  small 
lobby,  richly  finished  in  Vermont  marble,  with  panels  of  Sienna 
marble,  and  golden  ceiling.  From  this  lobby  the  E.  door 
enters  upon  the  Periodical  Room,  and  the  W.  door  upon  the 
^Senate  Reading  Room.  The  chief  features  of  this  dignified 
room  are  the  oaken  dado,  ornamented  with  inlaid  arabesques 
of  white  mahogany ;  the  paneled  gold  ceiling,  con- 
taining in  each  of  its  six  square  panels  four  female 
figures  with  garlands,  modeled  by  William  A.  Mackay  (b. 
1878)  ;  a  fireplace  of  Sienna  marble,  with  a  sculptured  panel 
by  Herbert  Adams  (who  also  did  the  carved  panel  of  the 
oaken  tympanum  over  entrance  door)  ;  and  on  E.  side  a  low 
gallery,  suggesting  an  Italian  loggia,  with  carved  balustrade 
of  Sienna  marble. 

Entrance  Hall,  East  Corridor.  Returning  to  the  En- 
trance Hall  we  may  next  visit,  in  the  E.  corridor,  the  six 
murals  by  John  W .  Alexander  (1856-1915),  illustrating  *The 
Evolution  of  the  Book  : 


384  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

South  End  Wall  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  The  Cairn,  showing  men 
of  the  stone-age  erecting  a  pyramid  of  huge  stones,  to  com- 
memorate some  important  event;  2.  Oral  Tradition,  showing 
an  Arab  Story-teller  relating  to  his  kinsmen  the  Traditions 
of  the  Tribe;  West  Wall  (S.  cor.)  :  3.  Hieroglyphics,  show- 
ing an  Egyptian  stone-cutter  carving  an  inscription  on  a  new 
tomb;  (N.  cor.)  :  4.  Picture  Writing,  depicting  an  American 
Indian  tracing  a  record  on  an  animal  hide,  while  a  young 
Indian  girl  lies  on  the  ground  watching  him;  North  Wall 
(W.  to  E.)  :  5.  The  Manuscript  Book,  showing  mediaeval 
Monks  patiently  inscribing  and  illuminating  missals;  6.  Print- 
ing, showing  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of  printing,  in  his  office 
examining  a  proof-sheet,  while  beside  him  an  apprentice  is 
busily  working  a  primitive  press. 

The  visitor  should  note  how  admirably  the  artist  has  triumphed 
over  the  handicap  of  insufficient  light  in  this  corridor,  by  free  employ- 
ment of  white  in  his  backgrounds  and  a  generous  use  of  yellows  and 
browns  in  his  figures  and  draperies. 

The  vaulting  of  this  corridor  has  been  devoted  to  a  sort 
of  Hall  of  Fame  for  great  Americans  in  the  various  branches 
of  the  Arts  and  Sciences.  The  scheme  of  this  Honor  Roll 
is  as  follows :  1.  In  the  ten  pendentives  at  the  ends  and 
along  the  sides  of  the  corridor  ceiling  are  ten  "Trophies" 
or  mosaic  panels,  symbolizing  the  several  Arts  and  Sciences ; 
2.  Below  each  Trophy  are  the  names  of  two  Americans  dis- 
tinguished in  that  particular  branch;  3.  In  the  central  vault 
of  the  ceiling  are  inscribed  the  three  great  professions,  Medi- 
cine, Theology  and  Law;  and  4.  Flanking  them  are  lists  of 
America's  famous  professional  men. 

Trophies  and  Associated  Names:  South  Pendentive:  1.  Architec- 
ture (Ionic  capital,  hammer  and  chisel);  below,  Latrobe  and  Walter; 
West  Pendentives  (S.  to  N.)  :  2.  Music  (lyre,  flute  and  musical  score); 
below,  Gottschalk  and  Mason;  3.  Painting  (palette,  brushes  and  sketch- 
hook);  below,  Stuart  and  Allston;  4,  Sculpture  (ancient  torso  and 
sculptor's  tools);  below,  Powers  and  Crawford;  5.  Poetry  (a  youth  with 
lyre  mounted  on  Pegaisuis;  below,  Emerson  and  Holmes;  North  Penden- 
tive; 6.  Natural  Science  (a  microscope  and  sea-horse);  below,  Say  and 
Dana;  East  Pendentives  (N.  to  S.) :  7.  Mathematics  (compass,  square 
and  abacus);  below,  Pierce  and  Bowditch;  8.  Astronomy  (celestial  globe 
with  Zodiac);  below,  Bond  and  Rittenhouse;  9.  Engineering  (quadrant, 
anchor,  level,  etc.):  below,  Francis  and  Stevens;  10.  Natural  Philosophy 
(scales  and  a  crucible) ;   below,   Cooke  and   Silliman. 

Along  the  central  vault  of  the  corridor  are  inscribed  (S.  to  N.)  : 
1.  Medicine:  Gross,  Wood,  McDowell,  Rush,  Warren;  2.  Law:  Curtis, 
Webster,  Hamilton,  Kent,  Pinckney,  Gibson,  Story,  Marshall,  Taney, 
Shaw;   3.   Theology:   Beecher,   Channing,   Mather,   Edwards,   Brooks. 

Separated  from  the  East  Corridor  by  an  Arcade,  is  the 
broad  passageway  divided  by  a  second!  Arcade  into  two  trans- 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  385 

verse  lobbies,  forming  the  entrance  to  the  Central  Rotunda, 
or  Main  Reading  Room.  In  the  second  lobby  are  a  series 
of  five  murals  representing  *Government,  by  Elihu  Vedder: 

East  Wall:  1.  (over  central  doorway)  Government,  the  personifica- 
tion of  an  ideal  Republic,  represented  as  a  woman  of  grave  and  majestic 
mien,  -crowned  with  a  wreath  and  holding  in  her  left  hand  a  sceptre, 
symbolic  of  the  Golden  Rule,  and  in  her  right  a  tablet  with  inscription 
quoted  from  Lincoln's  Gettysburg  Address,  "A  Government  of  the  peo- 
ple, by  the  people,  for  the  people."  She  is  flanked  by  winged  geniuses 
holding  respectively  the  sword  of  Justice  and  the  bridle  of  Moderation; 
2.  (on  S.)  Good  Administration,  seated  female  figure  on  a  marble  throne, 
the  frame  of  which  is  an  arch,  symbolic  of  the  even  distribution  of 
rights  and  duties  in  a  Democracy.  In  her  right  hand  are  evenly 
balanced  scales;  her  left  rests  upon  a  quartered  shield,  symbolic  of  the 
equality  of  classes  and  parties.  On  her  left  a  youth,  casting  his  vote, 
holds  a  book,  emblem  of  intelligence.  On  her  right  a  young  girl  win- 
nows the  chaff  from  the  wheat;  South  End  Wall:  3.  Peace  and  Pros- 
perity: Peace  is  crowned  with  an  olive  wreath,  and  is  flanked  on  either 
side  by  _youths  typifying  respectively,  Agriculture  and  the  Arts.  In 
the  background  is  a  fertile  landscape,  symbolic  of  prosperity;  East 
Wall,  N.  of  center:  4.  Corrupt  Legislation,  personified  as  a  seductive 
but  depraved  woman,  enthroned  between  cornucopias  overflowing  with 
surplus  revenue.  With  her  right  hand  she  scornfully  dismisses  thinly 
clad  Labor;  in  her  left  hand  she  holds  a  sliding  scale  (symbol  of  in- 
justice) on  which  a  rich  man  is  placing  a  bag  of  gold;  North  End 
Wall:  5.  Anarchy,  a  nude  female  figure  brandishing  a  wine  cup  and 
fire-brand,  and  madly  trampling  upon  the  ruins  of  civilization;  on  L. 
and  R.  she  is  aided  by  Violence,  who  is  destroying  a  Greek  Temple,  and 
by   Ignorance,   who   is   thrusting  the  general   wreckage  into   an   abyss. 

The  main  floor  of  the  Rotunda  is  reserved  for  visitors 
wishing  to  use  the  library  for  reference  purposes.  Mere 
sight-seers,  especially  if  in  numbers,  are  properly  excluded. 

The  library,  however,  is  open  free  for  reference  to  the  public  without 
any  formalities,  and  it  is  well  worth  while,  if  time  permits,  to  make  use 
of  its  privileges  at  least  once,  if  only  as  an  excuse  for  spending  an 
hour  in  this  beautiful  Reading  Room,  studying  the  methods  of  service, 
and  getting  certain  architectural  effects  which  cannot  be  properly  ap- 
preciated  from,  the  visitors'   gallery    (p.   399). 

Second  Story  Decorations.  The  murals,  arabesques,  and 
other  decorations  on  the  second  floor  include  the  Entrance 
Hall  Arcade,  the  northwest  and  southwest  Galleries  and  the 
four  corner  Pavilions. 

The  second  floor  is  reached,  either  by  the  grand  staircase  from  the 
Entrance  Hall,  or  by  elevator  from  Reading  Room  lobby.  In  the 
Arcade  surrounding  the  four  sides  of  the  open  central  hall,  are  the  most 
brilliant  and  lavish  decorations,  both  in  variety  and  range  of  color, 
contained  in  the  library.  The  scheme  was  all  worked  out  originally  by 
Edward  Pearce  Casey,  and  elaborated  mainly  in  respect  to  coloring  by 
Elmer  E.  Garnscy.  The  color  scheme,  comprising  blue  in  the  penden- 
tives,  golden  yellow  in  the  penetrations,  and  grayish  white  in  the  main 
body  of  the  vaulting,  is  said  to  have  been  adapted  from  the  well-known 
Library    in    Sienna. 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  3&7 

The  decorations  of  the  Arcades  consist  of:  I.  Four 
series  of  paintings  by  specially  commissioned  artists;  2.  Four 
series  of  Printers'  Marks,  arranged  according  to  nationalities ; 
3.  Hinton  Perry's  bas-reliefs;  and  4.  George  W.  Maynard's 
Pompeiian  panels. 

Entrance  Hall,  Second  Story,  West  Corridor:  The  Sci- 
ences, by  Walter  Shirlaiu,  a  series  of  eight  frescoes,  occupying 
the  pendentives  of  the  vault,  in  each  of  which  a  Science 
is  symbolized  by  a  female  figure,  heroic  size,  the  symbolism 
being  carried  out  not  only  in  the  attributes  but  in  the  color 
scheme :  e.g.,  in  Zoology,  browns  and  yellows,  the  common- 
est colors  among  animals ;  and  in  chemistry,  purple,  blue  and 
red,  the  colors  most  frequently  met  with  in  chemical  experi- 
ments.    These  frescoes  occupy  the   following  order : 

West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  Geology,  holding  in  left  hand  the  Earth, 
and  in  her  right  a  fossil  shell;  2.  Mathematics,  almost  nude  (the  Naked 
Truth),  standing  on  a  stone  block  inscribed  with  conic  sections,  and 
holding  a  shield  bearing  geometric  devices;  3.  Physics,  bearing  a  torch, 
symbol  of  one  of  the  greatest  physical  forces;  4.  Zoology,  clad  in  a  wild 
animal's  pelt,  and  with  fingers  intertwined  in  the  mane  of  a  crouching 
lion. 

East  Wall  (S.  to  N.)  :  5.  Chemistry,  holding  a  retort;  6.  Astronomy, 
holding  in  right  hand  a  lens,  and  in  left  the  planet  Saturn  with  its 
rings;  7.  Botany,  standing  on  a  lily-pad  and  examining  a  pond  lily;  8. 
Archaeology,  studying  an  ancient  book,  wears  Roman  garb  and  the  helmet 
of  Minerva;  beside  her  is  a  Zuni  vase;  and  around  her  neck  a  chameleon, 
symbolizing   the   changing  views   of  the   archaeologists. 

On  the  end  walls  are  inscribed  the  names  of  eight  illus- 
trious representatives  of  the  Sciences  portrayed. 

North  End  Wall:  1.  La  Grange,  the  mathematician;  2.  Lavoisier, 
the  chemist;  3.  Rumford,  the  physicist;  4.  Lyell,  the  geologist.  Flanking 
these  names  are  two  quotations: 

a.  (on  L.) :     "All  are  but  parts  of  one  stupendous  whole 

Whose  body  Nature  is,  and  God  the  Soul."  Pope. 

b.  (on  R.)  :     "In  nature  all  is  useful,  all  is  beautiful."     Emerson. 
South    Wall:     5.    Cuvier,   the   zoologist;    6.    Linnaeus,   the   botanist; 

7.    Schliemann,   the   archaeologist;    8.    Copernicus,    the    astronomer.      The 
accompanying  quotations  are: 

c.  (on  L.)  "The  first  creature  of  God  was  the  light  of  sense,  the 
last    was   the   light   of   reason."      Bacon. 

d.  (on  R.)  "The  light  shineth  in  the  darkness,  and  the  darkness 
comprehendeth  it  not."     St.  John  I,  5. 

Through  the  middle  of  the  vaulted  ceiling  are  three 
medallions  representing  the  Arts,  executed  by  William  B.  Van 
Ingen  (b.  1858)  : 

(N.  to  S.)  1.  Sculpture,  completing  a  bust  of  Washington;  2. 
Architecture,  drafting  a  ground  plan;  3.  Painting,  holding  palette  and 
brush. 

Above  the  five  windows,  on  W.,  are  the  following  quotations  (N. 
to   S.): 


388  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

i.  "The  foundation  of  every  state  is  the  education  of  its  youth." 
Dionysius. 

2.  "Glory  is  acquired  by  virtue,  but  preserved  by  letters."    Petrarch. 

3.  "Books  will   speak  plain  when  counsellors  blancjh."    Bacon. 

4.  "The  history  of  the  world  is  the  biography  of  great  men." 
Carlyle. 

5.  "Art  is  long  and  time  is  fleeting."  Longfellow.  "Psalm  of 
Life." 

The  Printers'  Marks  in  this  corridor  are  those  of  German 
printers,  and  extend  along  the  curving  sides  of  the  vault  above 
Shirlaw's  Sciences. 

They  comprise  the  following:  West  Side  (N.  to  S.) :  1.  Jacobua 
Pfortzeim  (1488-1518);  2.  Conrad  Baumgarten  (1503-05);  3.  Craft 
Mueller  (1536-62);  4.  Fust  and  Schoeffer  (1457);  5.  Wolfgang  Koep- 
fel    (1523).. 

East  Side  (S.  to  N.)  :  6.  Theodosius  and  Josias  Rihel  (1535-1639); 
7.  Melchior  Lotter  (1491-1536);  8.  Martin  Schott  (1498);  9.  Valentin 
Kobian    (1532-42);    10.   Cratander   (1519). 

Entrance  Hall  Arcade  continued:  North  Corridor:  The 
principal  decorations  here  are  two  series  of  murals  by  Robert 
Reid  (b.  1862),  comprising:  A.  Four  circular  panels  on  the 
N.  wall,  each  representing  a  half-length  seated  female  figure, 
symbolizing  respectively  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Wisdom;  2.  Under- 
standing; 3.  Knowledge;  4.  Philosophy;  B.  The  Five  Senses., 
five  octagonal  panels  along  the  vault  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Taste, 
drinking  from  a  sea-shell;  2.  Sight,  smiling  at  her  own  beauty 
reflected  in  a  mirror;  3.  Smell,  seated  beside  a  bank  of 
flowers  inhaling  the  fragrance  of  a  rose;  4.  Hearing,  listening 
to  the  murmur  of  a  shell  pressed  to  her  ear;  5.  Touch,  enjoy- 
ing the  curious  sensation  caused  by  a  butterfly  which  has 
alighted  on  her  bare  arm. 

Alternating  with  Mr.  Reid's  ceiling  frescoes  is  a  series  of 
six  rectangular  panels,  done  in  a  style  suggesting  classic  bas- 
relief,  and  depicting  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Throwing  the  Discus; 
2.  Wrestling;  3.  Running;  4.  The  Finish;  5.  The  Wreath  of 
Victory;  6.  The  Triumphal  Return. 

The  N.  and  S.  pendentives  of  the  vault  are  occupied  by 
medallions  containing  Trophies  of  the  Trades  and  Sciences, 
alternating  with  tablets  inscribed  with  verses  from  Adelaide 
A.  Procter's  poem,  "Unexpressed." 

The  Trophies  are  as  follows:  North  Side  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Geometry 
(scroll,  compass  and  quadrant) ;  2.  Meteorology  (Thermometer,  barom- 
eter and_  rain  gauge);  3.  Forestry  (trees,  axe  and  pruning  knife); 
South  Side  (E.  to  W.) :  4.  Navigation  (rudder,  rope,  sailor's  knot, 
etc.);  5.  Mechanics  (pulley,  lever  and  wedge);  6.  Transportation  (pis- 
ton,   propeller,    driving-wheel     and     head-light). 

The  quotations  in  the  alternate  pendentives  (in  the  same 
order)  are: 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  389 

1.  "Dwells   within   the   soul    of    every   Artist 
More   than   all   his   effort   can   express." 

2.  "No    great    Thinker    ever    lived    and    taught    you 
All    the    wonder   that   his   soul    received." 

3.  "No    true    painter    ever    set    on    canvas 
All    the    glorious    vision    he    conceived." 

4.  "No   musician, 
But  be  sure  he  heard,  and  strove  to  render, 
Feeble   echoes    of   celestial   strains." 

5.  "No   real   poet   ever   wove    in    numbers 
All    his    dreams." 

6.  "Love    and    Life   united 
Are    twin    mysteries,    different,    yet    the    same." 

7.  "Love    may    strive,    but    vain    is    the    endeavor 
All    its    boundless    riches    to    unfold." 

8.  "Art    and    Love    speak;    but    their    words    must    be 
Like   sighings   of    illimitable   forests." 

The  following  quotations  are  inscribed  in  panels  above 
the    doors    and    windows : 

West  End  Wall:  1.  "The  chief  glory  of  every  people  arises  from 
its  authors."     Dr.  Johnson. 

North  Wall:  2.  "There  is  one  only  good,  namely,  knowledge,  and 
one   only   evil,   namely,   ignorance."      Socrates. 

3.  "Knowledge    comes,    but   wisdom    lingers."      Tennyson. 

4.  "Wisdom  is  the  principal  thing;  therefore  get  wisdom;  and 
with  all  thy  getting  get  understanding."     Proverbs  iv,   7. 

5.  "Ignorance  is  the  curse  of  God, 
Knowledge  the  wing  wherewith  we  fly  to  Heaven."  Shakespeare. 

6.  "How   charming  is  divine   Philosophy,"   Milton. 

7.  "Books   must   follow    sciences,   and   not   sciences   books,"   Bacon. 

8.  "In  books  lies  the  soul  of  the  whole  past  time,"   Carlyle. 

9.  "Words  are  also  actions,  and  actions  are  a  kind  of  word," 
Emerson. 

East  End  Wall:  10.  "Reading  maketh  a  full  man,  conference  a 
ready  man,  and  writing  an  exact  man,"  Bacon. 

Three  other  quotations  are  inscribed  in  tablets  on  the 
semi-circular  border,  following  the  line  of  the  vault  on  West 
End  wall.     These  are   (L.  to  R.)  : 

1.  "Order   is   Heaven's   first   law,"    Pope. 

2.  "Memory  is  the  treasurer  and  guardian  of  all  things,"   Cicero. 

3.  "Beauty  is  the  creator  of  the  universe,"  Emerson. 

The  Printers'  Marks  in  this  corridor  are,  on  N.  side, 
modern  American,  and  on  S.  side  early  English  and  Scotch. 

North  Side  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  D.  Appleton  and  Co.;  2.  The  De  Vinne 
Press;  3.  Charles  Scribner's  Sons;  4.  Harper  and  Brothers;  5  The 
Riverside  Press;  6.  The  Century  Company;  7.  J.  B.  Lippincott  Company 


3Q0  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

8.  Dodd,  Mead  and  Co.  South  Side  (E.  to  W.) :  9.  William  Caxton, 
1489;  10.  Richard  Grafton,  1537-72;  11.  Thomas  Vautrollier,  1556-1605; 
12.  John  Day,  1546-84;  13.  William  Jaggard,  1595-1624;  14.  A.  Arbuthnot, 
1580;    15.  Andrew  Hester,    1550;    16.-   Richard  Pynson,   1493-1527. 

Two  other  important  decorations  remain  to  be  described, 
namely  Mr.  Maynard's  Pompeiian  panels  and  Mr.  Hinton 
Perry's  series  of  bas-reliefs  of  the  ancient  Sybils,  both  of 
which  series  the  northern  corridor  shares  with  the  southern. 

The  Pompeiian  panels,  eight  in  number,  consist  of  female  figures 
in  classic  drapery,  representing  the  Virtues,  and  depicted  against  a  rich 
background  of  Pompeiian  red.  The  four  in  the  N.  corridor  are  as 
follows:  West  End  Wall  (L.  to  R.) :  1.  Industry,  with  spindle  and 
distaff;  2.  Concord,  with  olive  branch  and  horn  of  plenty.  Eas-t  End 
Wall  (L.  to  R.) :  3.  Fortitude,  in  full  armor,  with  sword  and  buckler; 
4.   Justice,    with    sword    and    sphere. 

The  Hinton  Perry  bas-reliefs,  four  in  number,  are  placed 
on  the  inner  faces  of  the  deep  arches  surmounting  the  West 
End  windows  of  the  N.  and  S.  corridors. 

Those  of  the  N.  corridor  are  respectively:  1.  (on  L.)  Delphic 
Sybil,  seated  upon  a  tripod,  and  flanked  by  an  old  man,  symbolizing 
Greek  philosophy,  and  a  nude  woman,  representing  Greek  Art;  2.  (on 
R.)  Persian  Sybil,  veiled,  suggesting  oriental  occultism.  On  one  side  a 
male  figure  prostrates  himself,  symbolizing  the  fervor  of  Eastern 
worship;  on  the  other  a  half  nude  woman,  laden  with  jewels,  symboliz- 
ing the  sensuous  Art  of  the  East. 

Entrance  Hall  Arcade  continued:  East  Corridor:  The 
principal  decorations  here  are  two  series  of  murals  by  George 
R.  Barse,  Jr.  and  by  William  A.  Mackay,  the  subjects  being 
respectively,  Literature  and  The  Life  of  Man. 

Mr.  Barse's  series  of  pendentive  figures  begins  on  E.  side,  and  coin- 
prises  (N'.  to-  S.)  :  1.  Lyric  Poetry  playing  on  a  lyre;  2.  Tragedy,  with 
tragic  mask;  3.  Comedy,  with  comic  mask  and  tambourine;  4.  History, 
with  scroll  and  palm-branch.  W.  side:  5.  Romance,  with  pen  and 
scroll;  6.  Fancy,  with  clasped  hands  and  rapt  upward  gaze;  7.  Tradi- 
tion, wearing  2Egis  and  holding  statue  of  Winged  Victory;  8.  Love 
Poetry,  or  Erotica,   writing   on  tablet. 

Along  the  centre  of  the  vault  is  represented,  in  a  series 
of  three  frescoes,  The  Life  of  Man,  by  William  A.  Mackay 
(b.  1878).  The  artist  has  chosen  to  symbolize  man's  life 
on  earth  by  the  Three  Fates,  Clotho,  Lachesis  and  Atropos, 
whose  respective  duties  are  to  spin,  weave  and  sever  the 
Thread  of  life. 

The  significance  of  these  three  medallions  is  made  plain  by  a 
series  of  inscriptions  placed  above  and  below  them.  The  upper  series 
runs    as    follows: 

1.     "For  a  web  begun  God  sends  thread."     Old  Proverb. 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  391 

2.  "The  web  of  Jife  ...  is  of  migled  yarn,  good  and  ill 
together."    "All's   Well   that   Ends   Well,"    Shakespeare. 

3.  "Comes   the   blind   Fury   with   th'    abhorred   shears 
And  slits   the   thin-spun   life."     Milton. 

The  other  inscriptions  are  from  Cardinal  Wolsey's  speech  in 
Shakespeare's   "Henry   VIII": 

4.  "This   is   the   state   of   man:   today   he   puts   forth 
The  tender  leaves  of  hope." 

5.  "     .     .     .      Tomorrow   blossoms 

And    bears    his    blushing    honors    thick    upon    him." 

6.  "The  third  day  comes  a  frost, 
And  .  .  .  nips  his  root, 
And   then   he    falls      ..." 

The  Medallions:  i.  Clotho,  with  her  distaff;  in  her  lap  is  a  baby; 
in    the    background    are    a    little    spring,    a    sapling    and    the    rising    sun; 

2.  Lachesis,  with  a  shuttle  and  loom;   in  background  are  a  mature  man, 
a  broad  river  and  a  full-grown  tree,   while  the  sun  stands  at  high  noon; 

3.  Atropos,  with  open  shears  about  to  sever  a  thread;  in  the  background 
are  a  crippled  old  man,  a  fallen  tree,  a  dried-up  stream  and  setting  sun. 

At  the  ends  of  the  corridor  are  tablets  recording  the 
names  of  eminent  American  printers,  and  other  Americans 
distinguished  for  their  improvements  in  printing  machinery. 
North  End :  Green,  Daye,  Franklin,  Thomas,  Bradford ; 
South  End :    Clymer,  Adams,  Gordon,  Hoe,  Bruce. 

The  Printers'  Marks  in  this  corridor  are  mainly  Italian  and 
Spanish.      They  run  as  follows    (L.  to    R.) : 

North  End:  i.  Lucantonio  de  Giunta  (Italian),  1500;  2.  Aldus 
Manutius  (Italian),  1502.  East  Side:  3.  Paul  and  Anthony  Mejetos 
(Italian),  1570;  4.  Gian  Giacomo  de  Legnano  (Italian),  1503-33;  5.  Juan 
Rosembach  (Spanish),  1493-1526;  6.  Andrea  Torresano  (Italian),  1481- 
1540;  7.  Valentin  Fernandez  (Spanish),  1501.  South  End:  8.  Christo- 
pher Plantin  (Flemish),  1557;  9.  Elzevir  (Dutch),  1617-25.  West 
Side:  10.  Fratres  de  Sabio  (Italian),  early  16th  century;  11.  Melchior 
Sessa  (Italian),  16th  century;  12.  Ottaviano  Scotto  (Italian),  1480-1520; 
13.  Giammaria  Rizzardi  (Italian),  close  of  18th  century;  14.  Filippo  de 
Giunta    (Italian),    1515. 

There  are  only  two  quotations  inscribed  on  the  walls  of 
the  East  Corridor  above  the  N.  and  S.  east  windows  respec- 
tively : 

1.  (N.    window):    "Science    is    organized    knowledge."      Herbert. 

2.  (S.  window)  :  "Beauty  is  truth,  truth  beauty."  Keats'  "Ode  to 
a   Grecian    Urn." 

Entrance  Hall  Arcade  continued:  South  Corridor:  The 
principal  decorations  here  are  two  series  of  murals  by  Frank 
W.  Benson  (b.  1862)  :  1.  The  Four  Seasons,  occupying  cir- 
cular panels  on  the  S.  wall;  2.  The  Three  Graces,  in  hex- 
agonal panels  along  the  centre  of  the  vault. 

The  Seasons  are  represented  respectively  by  half-length  figures  of 
a  young  woman,  but  with  no  attempt  to  distinguish  the  Seasons  by 
attributes  or  any  symbolism  beyond  a  varying  warmth  in  the  color 
scheme. 


392  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  Graces  (E.  to  W.)  are:  i.  Aglaia,  patroness  of  Husbandry, 
symbolized  by  a  shepherd's  crook;  2.  Thalia,  patroness  of  Music, 
symbolized  by  a  lyre;  3.  Euphrosyne,  goddess  of  Beauty,  admiring 
herself   in   a   hand-mirror. 

At  the  opposite  ends  of  the  ceiling  vault  are  two  rec- 
tangular panels  similar  in  general  treatment  to  the  Classic 
Sports  of  the  N.  Corridor,  but  portraying  respectively  the 
modern  sports  of:  1.  (E.  end)  Football;  2.  (W.  end)  Base- 
ball. 

The  series  of  Maynard's  Pompeiian  panels  representing 
the  Virtues,  begun  in  the  N.  corridor,  are  here  continued  as 
follows : 

East  End  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  5.  Patriotism,  represented  by  a  girl  of 
heroic  mien,  %  holding  in  her  right  hand  a  bowl  from  which  an  eagle, 
perched  on  her  left  arm,  is  feeding;  6.  Courage,  female  figure  with 
buckler  and  drawn  sword.  Over  the  window,  between  these  panels, 
is  a  tablet  with   the  quotation : 

"Beholding  the  bright  continents  of  Truth  in  the  quiet  and  still 
air    of    delightful    studies."      Milton. 

West  End  Wall   (N.  to   S.):   7.  Temperance,  represented  as  pouring 

water   from   an   urn   into   a   cup;    8.  Prudence,   firmly   grasping   snake   in 

right    hand,    and   watching   possible  dangers    from   rear,    through    mirror 
held    in    left. 

The  Hinton  Perry  Sibyls  are  here  continued  from  N.  cor- 
ridor by  two  more  bas-reliefs  within  the  arch  of  the  W. 
window : 

3.  (N.  side)  a  Norse  Vala  or  Wise  Woman,  delivering  her  barbaric 
inspiration  to  a  warrior,  while  a  nude  woman  of  stalwart  build,  per- 
sonifying Scandinavian  fecundity,  lies  on  the  ground  listening;  4.  The 
Cumaean,    or   Roman    Sybil. 

The  Printers'  Marks  in  the  penetrations  of  this  corridor 
are  mainly  French,  and  run  as  follows : 

South  Side  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Rutger  Velpius  (Flemish),  1553-1614; 
2.  F.  Estienne,  1525;  3.  Simon  de  Colines,  1520;  4.  Francois  Regnault, 
early  16th  century;  5.  Simon  Vostre,  1488-1528;  6.  Sebastian  Nivelle, 
late  16th  century;  7.  M.  Morin,  1484-1518;  8.  Sebastien  Gryphe,  second 
quarter   of    16th    century. 

North  Wall  (W.  to  E.):  9.  Andre  Wechel,  1535;  10.  Geoffroy  Tory, 
1524;  11.  Guillaume  Chaudiere,  1564;  12.  Pierre  Le  Rouge,  1488;  13. 
Mathurin  Breuille,  1562-83;  14.  Etienne  Dolet,  1540;  15.  Jehan  Treschel, 
1493;    16.   Jehan   Petit,    1525. 

The  pendentives  between  the  penetrations  containing  the 
Printers'  Marks,  are  occupied  by  tablets  containing  alternately 
literary  quotations  and  mosaic  trophies,  representing  the  sev- 
eral branches  of  skilled  labor.  These  inscriptions  and  alter- 
nating trophies  run  as  follows : 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  393 

South  Side   (E.  to  W.)  :     i.  Quotation: 

"The    fault      ...      is    not    in    our    stars, 

But  in  ourselves  that  we  are  underlings."  Shakespeare,  "Julius 
Caesar." 

2.  Trophy:  The  Printer,  symbolized  by  stick,  inking- 
ball  and  type-case ; 

3.  Quotation : 

"  .      .      The    universal    cause 

Acts  to  one  end,  but  acts  by   various  laws."     Pope. 

4.  Trophy :     The  Potter,  symbolized  by  three  urns ; 

5.  Quotation : 

"Creation's  heir,  the  world,  the  world  is  mine!"      Goldsmith. 

6.  Trophy:  The  Glass-blower,  with  three  glass  vases  of 
different  shapes; 

7.  Quotation : 

"Vain,  very  vain   the  weary   search  to  find^ 

That  bliss  which  only  centres  in  the   mind."      Goldsmith. 

North  Side  (W.  to  E.)  :     8.     Quotation: 

"A  little   learning  is  a  dangerous  thing; 

Drink  deep,  or  taste  not  the  Pierian  spring."     Pope. 

9.  Trophy:  The  Carpenter,  symbolized  by  hammer,  saw 
and  augur;     10.     Quotation: 

"Learning  is  but  an  adjunct  to  ourself."  Shakespeare.  "Love's 
Labor's    Lost." 

11.  Trophy:  The  Blacksmith,  symbolized  by  hammer, 
anvil  and  forceps  ;   12.     Quotation  : 

"Studies  perfect  nature,  and  are  perfected  by  experience."     Bacon. 

13.  Trophy:  The  Mason,  symbolized  by  square,  trowel, 
level  and  mortar-board ;  14.     Quotation  : 

"Dreams,   books,   are   each   a   world;    and   books   we   know, 
Are  a  substantial  world,  both  pure  and  good."      Wordsworth. 

The  Southivestcm  Gallery,  connecting  the  South  Corri- 
dor of  the  entrance  Pavilion  with  the  Southwest  Pavilion, 
contains  in  the  tympanums  over  the  N.  and  S.  doorways  two 
large  murals  by  Kenyon  Cox : 

1.  (N.  end)  The  Arts:  This  consists  of  a  group  of  five 
symbolic  female  figures.  Enthroned  in  the  centre  is  Poetry, 
holding  a  lyre  and  crowned  with  a  laurel  wreath.  On  her 
R.  are  Architecture,  holding  a  marble  column,  and  Music, 
playing  a  violin ;  on  her  L.  are  Sculpture,  holding  a  statuette, 
and  Painting,  with  palette  and  brushes.  2.  The  Sciences : 
Enthroned  in  centre  is  Astronomy,  holding  compasses  with 
which  to  take  measurements  of  a  celestial  globe.  On  her  R. 
are  Physics,  with  weighing  machine,  and  Mathematics,  with 
abacus;  on  her  L.  are  Botany,  holding  a  young  oak  tree,  and 
Zoology,   fondling  a   peacock. 


394  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

A  series  of  memorial  tablets,  inscribed  with  the  names  of  men 
distinguished  in  science  and  art,  extends  entirely  around  the  walls  of 
this  corridor  above  the  doors  and  windows,  as  follows: 

North  Wall  (L.  to  R.) :  i.  Wagner;  2.  Homer;  3.  Michelangelo. 
East  Wall:  4.  Raphael;  5.  Rubens;  6  Milton;  7.  Leibnitz;  8.  Dalton ; 
9.  Kepler;  10.  Herschel,  South  Wall:  11.  Galileo;  12.  Ptolemy;  13. 
Aristotle;  14.  Hipparchus;  15.  Lamarck.  West  Wall:  16.  Helmholtz; 
17.  Phidias;   18.  Vitruvius;  19.   Bramante;   20.   Mozart. 

Through  the  S.  doorway,  beneath  the  mural  of  the 
Sciences,  we  reach,  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Library, 
the  "Pavilion  of  the  Discoverers"  The  murals  in  this  room, 
comprising  the  central  disc  in  the  dome  and  the  tympanums 
on  the  four  walls,  are  by  George  W .  Maynard. 

The  central  disc  consists  of  four  symbolic  female  fig- 
ures, typifying  the  National  Virtues:  1.  (N.  E.)  Courage,  in 
coat-of-mail,  with  shield  and  war  club;  2.  (S.E.)  Valor,  a 
higher  type  of  warrior,  armed  with  a  sword;  3.  (S.W.) 
Fortitude,  unarmed,  but  bearing  as  symbol  of  stability  an 
architectural  column;  4.  (N.W.)  Achievement,  crowned  with 
a  laurel  wreath.  These  four  figures  are  closely  related  to 
the  four  adjacent  tympanum  murals  depicting  successively 
Adventure,  Discovery,  Conquest  and  Civilization.  Each  of 
these  murals  consists  of  a  group  of  three  female  figures ;  and 
in  each  case  the  symbols,  attributes  and  inscribed  names  of 
explorers,  soldiers,  priests  and  missionaries  are  exclusively 
those  of  England  and  Spain,  through  whom  the  discovery 
and   civilization  of   America  were   accomplished : 

1.  East  tympanum:  Adventure  (central  figure),  with 
drawn  sword  and  caduceus,  emblem  of  Mercury,  god  of 
commerce  and  of  theft.  The  figures  on  L.  and  R.  symbolize 
respectively  Spanish  and  English  Adventures. 

The   inscribed   names   are   as   follows: 

(L.)  1.  Diaz;  2.  Narvaez;  3.  Coello;  4.  Cabeza;  5.  Verrazano; 
6.  Bastidas;  (R.)  7.  Drake;  8.  Cavendish;  9.  Raleigh;  10.  Smith; 
11.  Frobisher;       12.  Gilbert. 

2.  South  tympanum:  Discovery  (central  figure),  with 
terrestrial  globe,  and  holding  a  ship's  rudder.  On  R.  and  L. 
sit  armor-clad  figures,  holding  respectively :  a.  A  sword  and 
Jacob's  staff  (used  by  early  navigators  in  place  of  a  sextant)  ; 
b.  A  paddle  and  chart. 

Inscribed  names:  (L.)  1.  Solis;  2.  Orellana;  3.  Van  Horn;  4. 
Ojeda;  5.  Columbus;  6.  Pinon;  (R.)  7.  Cabot;  8.  Magellan;  9. 
Hudson;       10.   Behring;       11.   Vespucius;        12.  Balboa. 

3.  West  tympanum:  Conquest  (central  figure),  with 
casque  pushed  back,  but  with  sword  still  unsheathed.  On  R. 
and  L.  respectively  are  figures  symbolizing  Southern  Con- 
quests (with  sheaf  of  palms)  and  Northern  Conquests  (with 
chaplet  of  oak-leaves). 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  395 

Inscribed  names:  (L.)  i.  Pizarro;  2.  Alvarado;  3.  Almagro; 
4.  Hutten;  5.  Frontenac;  6.  De  Soto;  (R.)  7.  Cortes;  8.  Standish; 
Winslow;    10.   Phipps;    11.   Velasquez;    12.    De   Leon. 

4.  North     tympanum :     Civilization     enthroned,     crowned 

with   laurel   and   holding  torch   of   enlightenment.     On  L.   is 

Agriculture,   holding   scythe   and    sheaf   of   wheat;    on   R.    is 

Manufactures,   with    distaff   and    spindle. 

Inscribed  names:  (L.)  1.  Eliot;  2.  Calvert;  3.  Marquette;  4. 
Joliet;  5.  Oglethorpe;  6.  Las  Casas;  (R.)  7.  Penn;  8.  Winthrop;  9. 
Motolinia;     10.  Yeardley;      11.  La  Salle. 

In  the  pendentives  of  the  four  corners  are  The  Seasons, 
four  circular  bas-relief  panels  by  Beta  L.  Pratt.  1.  (S.W. 
cor.)  Spring,  a  young  girl  sowing  seed,  her  drapery  fluttering 
in  a  brisk  wind;  2.  (S.  E.  cor.)  Summer,  a  beautiful  mature 
woman,  seated  in  a  field  of  poppies;  3.  (N.E.  cor.)  Autumn, 
a  mother  suckling  her  child;  4.  (N.W.  cor.)  Winter,  a 
wrinkled  crone,  gathering  fagots  for  her  frugal  fire. 

The  eastern  door  opens  into  the  South  Gallery,  occupied 
by  the  Division  of  Prints.  Passing  through  this  gallery 
we  reach  the  Southeast  Pavilion  or  ''Pavilion  of  the  Ele- 
ments." The  murals  here  comprise  four  tympanums,  by 
R.  L.  Dodge,  and  a  central  disc,  the  joint  work  of  Mr.  Dodge 
and  Elmer  E.  Garnsey.  The  ceiling  painting  depicts  the 
Chariot  of  Phoebus-Apollo,  the  Sun-god,  surrounded  by 
i     cartouches  symbolizing  the  Elements. 

The  Elements  are  also  the  theme  of  the  four  tympanum 
\  murals.  In  each  is  a  central  group  of  three  figures,  the 
middle  figure  in  the  E.  and  W.  pictures  being  a  male,  flanked 
by  two  female  figures,  while  in  the  N.  and  S.  pictures  all 
1  three  figures  are  female.  The  central  figure  (a  personifica- 
tion, in  each  case,  of  an  Element),  holds  in  each  hand  em- 
blematic garlands,  the  opposite  ends  of  which  are  held  by 
.  genii  in  the  corners.  To  R.  and  L.  of  central  group  is  a 
bronze  column,  flanked  by  lofty  bronze  tripods,  surmounted 
by  appropriate   symbols. 

1.  (West  Wall)  Earth.  He  stands  against  a  background 
of  fruitful  summer  landscape.  The  figure  on  R.  holds  a 
sickle  and  sheaf  of  wheat ;  that  on  L.  holds  a  rose  and 
leans  upon  an  amphora  or  ancient  wine-jar.  On  the  columns 
are  baskets  of  fruit,  and  peacocks  perch  upon  the  tripods. 
2.  (North  Wall)  Air.  She  is  winged  and  stands  against  a 
background  of  sky  and  clouds ;  a  star  blazes  on  her  forehead. 
One  of  the  flanking  figures  is  also  winged;  the  other  holds  a 
caduceus.  Surmounting  the  columns  are  astrolobes,  and 
perched  upon  the  tripod  are  eagles.  3.  (West  Wall)^  Fire. 
He  stands  against  a  background  of  volcanic  mountains  in 
!   action.      The    flanking    figures    hold    blazing    torches.      The 


396  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

columns  bear  flaming  globes,  and  the  tripods  are  surmounted 
by  fiery  nests  from  which  phoenixes  arise.  4.  (South  Wall) 
Water.  The  central  figure  stands  against  a  background  of 
the  open  sea.  She  is  clad  in  green,  and  festooned  with  sea- 
weed and  water-lilies.  On  her  R.  and  L.  are  mermaids.  The 
group  is  flanked  by  Rostral  columns,  and  above  the  tripods 
hover  sea-gulls. 

The  Northwest  Gallery,  connecting  the  North  Corridor 
of  the  Entrance  Pavilion  with  the  Northwest  Pavilion,  con- 
tains in  the  tympanums  over  the  N.  and  S.  doorways  two 
large   murals   by  Gari  Melchers. 

1.  (South  Wall)  Peace.  Here,  in  a  setting  of  Arcadian 
simplicity,  some  pre-historic  tribe  is  conducting  a  religious 
procession.  The  worshipers  have  reached  a  grove  sacred  to 
the  tutelary  diety,  whose  image  the  four  central  figures  are 
carrying,  the  others  bear  various  thank-offerings,  and  the 
sacrificial  ox  closes  the  procession.  2.  (North  Wall)  War. 
Here,  in  a  similar  pre-historic  setting,  we  see  a  band  of 
warriors  returning  after  victory.  In  front  are  the  dogs  of 
war  straining  at  their  leashes.  Next  comes  the  conquering 
chieftain  on  his  war  horse,  and  in  the  foreground  a  fallen 
hero  is  being  borne  homeward.  The  bitterness  of  the  con- 
flict is  indicated  by  the  corpses  which  strew  their  route. 

In  tablets  above  the  doors  and  windows  are  enrolled  the 
names  of  the  world's  great  fighters  on  land  and  sea : 

1.  Wellington;  2.  Washington;  3.  Charles  Martel ;  4. 
Cyrus ;  5.  Alexander ;  6.  Hannibal ;  7.  Caesar ;  8.  Charle- 
magne;  9.  Napoleon;  10.  Jackson;  11.  Sheridan;  12.  Grant; 
13.  Sherman ;  14.  William  the  Conqueror ;  15.  Frederick  the 
Great;  16.  Eugene;  17.  Marlborough;  18.  Nelson;  19.  Scott; 
20.  Farragut. 

The  doors  beneath  the  picture  of  War  open  into  the 
Northwest  Pavilion,  or  "Pavilion  of  the  Arts  and  Sciences." 
This  is  now  used  as  a  special  reading  room  and  not  open 
to  the  general  public.  A  small  space,  however,  in  the  S.E. 
cor.,  screened  off  by  a  glass  partition,  enables  the  visitor  to 
get  a  somewhat  unsatisfactory  view  of  the  decorations. 
These  comprise  four  tympanums  and  a  ceiling  fresco,  all  by 
William  de  Leftwich  Dodge. 

The  ceiling  painting  is  an  allegory  of  Ambition,  and  de- 
picts a  horde  of  aspirants  striving,  by  fair  means  or  foul,  to 
reach  the  summit  of  the  Mountain  of  Success.  The  Unat- 
tainable Ideal  soars  above  them,  accompanied  by  the  winged 
horse  Pegasus,  and  trumpeting  Fame.  A  Court  Jester,  mock- 
ing their  fruitless  efforts,  adds  the  last  touch  of  irony. 


THE  LIBRARY  GF  CONGRESS  397 

The  tympanum  murals  are  as  follows:  I.  (South  Wall) 
Art,  a  group  of  three  figures  comprising  a  Sculptor,  chiseling 
a  marble  Sphynx ;  an  Artist,  drawing  from  a  model ;  and  a 
Woman  decorating  a  Vase.  2.  (West  Wall)  Literature,  sym- 
bolized by  the  Genius  of  Wisdom,  holding  an  open  book, 
surrounded  by  Tragedy  and  Comedy,  Fame  in  the  act  of 
crowning  a  Poet,  and  Education,  represented  by  a  mother 
•teaching  her  children.  3.  (INorth  Wall)  Music,  depicting 
Apollo,  god  of  song  and  harmony,  listening  to  the  playing  of 
an  encircling  group  of  musicians,  ancient  and  modern.  4. 
(East  Wall)  Science:  here,  before  a  Temple,  winged  Fame 
is  bestowing  a  laurel  wreath  upon  kneeling  Electricity,  whose 
attributes  are  the  Phonograph  and  Telephone.  In  the  sur- 
rounding group  are  an  Inventor,  holding  a  propeller  (Steam 
Navigation),  a  Farmer  binding  grain  (Agriculture)  and 
Anatomists  studying  a  skull  (Medical  Science).  Chemistry 
is  represented  by  a  retort,  and  Steam  Power  by  a  boiling 
Settle. 

The  Northeast  Pavilion,  known  as  the  "Pavilion  of  the 
Seals,"  is  now  closed  to  the  public,  and  can  be  seen  only 
by  special  permission.  The  decorations,  as  in  the  other 
Pavilions,  comprise  a  central  disc  and  four  tympanums,  and 
are  the  joint  product  of  W .  B.  Van  Ingen  and  Elmer  E. 
Garnsey. 

The  central  disc  in  the  dome  contains  the  Great  Seal  of 
the  United  States ;  the  surrounding  decorations  include  the 
forty-eight  stars  of  the  Flag,  four  faces  with  inflated  cheeks, 
emblematic  of  the  four  Cardinal  Winds ;  the  different  sec- 
tions of  the  country,  represented  by  their  fruits  and  grains ; 
and  lastly,  Agriculture,  symbolized  by  a  cornucopia,  Com- 
merce by  a  Dolphin,  Art  by  a  lyre  and  Education  by  a  torch. 
The  whole  is  surrounded  by  an  inscription  comprising  the 
concluding  lines   of   Lincoln's   Gettysburg  Address : 

"That  this  Nation,  under  God,  shall  have  a  new  birth  of  freedom; 
and  that  government  of  the  people,  by  the  people,  for  the  people,  shall 
not   perish   from   the   earth." 

In  the  tympanums  are  symbolized  the  Executive  Depart- 
ments in  the  form  of  female  figures,  each  supporting  the 
Seal  of  her  department  emblazoned  on  a  shield.  Adjacent  to 
each  tympanum  are  wreathed  panels  containing  patriotic 
sentiments. 

1.  West  Tympanum:  Treasury  and  State  Departments, 
indicated  respectively  (in  addition  to  the  Seals)  by:  A. 
The  Treasury  Building;  B.  The  Capitol  Dome  and  Wash- 
ington  Monument.      The   quotations   are  : 


398  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

a.  "  'Tis  our  true  policy  to  steer  clear  of  permanent  alliances  with 
any  portion  of  the  foreign  world." — Washington,  b.  "Let  our  object  be 
our  country,  our  whole  country,  and  nothing  but  our  country." — Webster. 

2.  South  Tympanum:  War  and  Navy  Departments,  in- 
dicated respectively  by :  A.  Bunker  Hill  Monument  and  the 
Roman  Standard  (modified  by  the  initials  "U.  S.  A.")  ;  B. 
The  masts  of  the  Battleship  Indiana  and  Decatur's  Rostral 
Column   (at  Annapolis).     Inscriptions: 

c.  "The  aggregate  happiness  of  society  is,  or  ought  to  be,  the  end 
of  all  government." — Washington,  d.  "To  be  prepared  for  war  is  one 
of   the  most  effectual  means  of  preserving  peace." — Washington. 

3.  East  Tympanum:  Departments  of  Agriculture  and  the 
Interior,  indicated  respectively  by :  A.  Landscape  showing  a 
farming  region ;   B.  An  Indian  Tree  Sepulture.    Inscriptions : 

e.  "The  agricultural  interest  of  the  country  is  connected  with 
every  other,  and  superior  in  importance  to  them  all." — Jackson. 
f.  "Let   us    have   peace." — Grant. 

4.  North  Tympanum:  Departments  of  Justice  and  the 
Post  Office,  indicated  respectively  by :  A.  The  Sca.es  of  Jus- 
tice ;  B.  Bronze  statue  of  Mercury,  messenger  of  the  gods. 
Inscription : 

g.  "Equal  and  exact  justice  to  all  men,  of  whatever  state  or  per- 
suasion, religious  or  political;  peace,  commerce,  and  honest  friendship 
with  all   nations — entangling   alliances   with   none." — Jefferson. 

d.     The   Rotunda 

Adjoining  the  Eastern  Corridor  of  the  Main  Entrance 
Pavilion  Gallery  is  the  Stairway  Vestibule,  opening  upon  a 
branching  marble  stairway  leading  up  to  the  Visitors'  Gal- 
lery of  the  Rotunda.  The  ceiling  decorations  in  the  vaulting 
of  the  Stairway  Vestibule  symbolize  by  a  series  of  trophies 
the  leading  classic  arts :  1.  (N.  vault)  Sculpture :  a  bas-relief 
female  face  with  laurel  wreath;  2.  (Central  vault)  Litera- 
ture :  represented  by  a  book,  scroll  and  antique  lamp ;  3. 
(S.  vault)  Architecture:  Ionic  Capital  and  Square.  Sculp- 
ture is  further  commemorated  by  the  enrollment  in  the  vault- 
ing of  four  classic  masterpieces,  The  Parthenon  Pediment, 
Niobe,  Laocoon  and  Farnese  Bull;  while  in  the  adjacent 
stairway  vault  are  inscribed  the  names  of  four  divinities 
most  frequently  subject  of  the  sculptor's  art:  Zeus,  Hercules, 
Venus  and  Apollo.  Architecture  is  similarly  commemorated 
by  the  names  of  four  ancient  cities  famous  for  their  monu- 
ments:  Gizeh,  Athens,  Rome  and  Agra;  while  in  the  adja- 
cent stairway  vault  are  inscribed  one  of  the  most  famous 
structures  respectively  in  these  four  cities :  The  Pyramids, 
Parthenon,  Colosseum  and  Taj   Mahal. 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  399 

On  E.  wall  of  bays,  to  N.  and  S.  of  stairway,  are  two 
murals  representing  respectively  Prescott,  the  Historian,  and 
Audubon,  the  Naturalist,  by  IV.  B.   Van  Ingen. 

Opposite  the  central  landing  where  the  stairs  branch  to 
R.  and  L.,  is  a  colossal  glass  mosaic  15^  ft.  high  and  9  ft 
wide,  representing  *Minerva,  Goddess  of  Wisdom,  by  Elihu 
Vedder.  Her  armor  is  partly  laid  aside ;  yet  she  still  wears 
upon  her  breast  the  aegis,  emblazoned  with  the  Gorgon's 
head,  and  in  her  right  hand  holds  a  spear.  In  her  left  hand 
is  a  scroll  inscribed  with  the  chief  branches  of  knowledge: 
Law,  Statistics,  Sociology,  Philosophy  and  the  Sciences.  On 
L.  and  R.  respectively  are  an  owl,  and  a  statuette  of  the 
Winged  Victory  bearing  a  victor's  wreath  and  an  olive 
branch.  Note,  beneath  the  owl,  the  artist's  signature  in 
mosaic. 

Ascending  by  iR.  or  L.  branch  of  the  stairway,  we 
reach  a  door  opening  into  the  Visitors'  Promenade,  an 
octagonal  gallery  completely  surrounding  the  Rotunda,  and 
consisting  of  eight  alcoves,  connected  by  arched  openings  in 
the  partitioned  walls.  This  gallery,  accessible  to  visitors  at 
all  times  when  the  library  is  open,  affords  the  best  point  from 
which  to  study  the  structure  and  decorations  of  the  Rotunda 
(with  the  exception  of  Blashfield's  paintings  in  the  Crown 
of  the  Lantern,  which  can  be  seen  only  from  near  the 
centre  of  the  main  floor). 

The  ground  plan  of  the  Rotunda  is  a  regular  octagon, 
measuring  100  ft.  from  side  to  side.  At  each  of  the  eight 
angles  are  massive  clustered  piers  of  dusky  red  Numidian 
marble,  resting  on  a  base  of  chocolate  brown  Tennessee 
marble,  and  supporting  semi-circular  arches,  which  in  turn 
bear  a  massive  circular  entablature  from  which  spring  the 
eight  ribs  that  sustain  the  weight  of  the  dome.  Between  the 
piers  are  screens  of  yellow  Sienna  marble,  in  many  tones, 
arcaded  in  two  stories ;  and  behind  the  piers  are  partitions 
extending  to  the  outer  walls  and  forming  a  series  of  eight 
bays.  The  main  floor  level  of  these  bays  is  devoted  to  the 
shelves  of  reference  books,  open  to  the  public ;  the  first  gal- 
lery is  used  for  book  stacks ;  while  the  second  story  forms 
the  above  mentioned  Visitors'  Promenade,  which  is  lighted 
by  large  semicircular  windows,  filling  in  the  whole  of  the 
wall  space  within  the  eight  great  arches,  and  containing  the 
Seals  of  the  several  States  of  the  Union,  together  with  the 
respective  dates  of  their  ratification  of  the  Constitution, 
admission  into  the  Union,  or  Territorial  organization. 


4oo  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

These  seals,  designed  by  Herman  T.  Schladermundt  (b.  1863),  from 
designs  by  Edward  P.  Casey,  find  their  chief  interest  in  the  freedom  with 
which  the  originals  have  been  adapted  to  the  needs  of  decorative  art. 
Many  of  the  official  seals  were  designed  by  persons  having  no  knowledge 
of  heraldic  rules  and  conventions;  nor  was  there  any  uniformity  in 
size  and  proportion;  while  in  a  few  cases  there  was  no  heraldic  device 
at  all  (as  in  the  case  of  the  State  of  Washington,  which  consists  simply 
of  a  portrait  of  Washington).  Mr.  Schladermundt,  by  altering  propor- 
tions, adapting  the  devices  to  the  fundamental  rules  of  armorial  bear- 
ings, and  in  some  instances  amplifying  too  bare  a  device  (e.  g.,  in  the 
Washington  seal,  by  adding  the  Washington  family  coat-of-arms),  has 
achieved  the  happy  result  of  unanimity,  in  form,  spirit  and  color- 
scheme. 

Above  the  entablature,  the  Dome  rises  to  a  height  of  125 
ft.  above  floor  level,  at  the  point  where  it  converges  upon 
the  Lantern.  The  surface  of  the  dome  is  of  stucco,  orna- 
mented with  coffers  and  arabesques  in  relief.  Above  the 
centre  of  the  dome  the  lantern  rises  an  additional  35  ft., 
forming  a  total  height  of  160  ft.  from  floor  to  centre  of  the 
shallow  lantern  dome. 

In  the  "collar"  between  main  dome  and  lantern  is  an 
encircling  mural,  The  Peogress  of  Civilization,  by  Edwin 
H.  B  lash  field,  consisting  of  twelve  seated  figures,  male  and 
female,  in  alternative  pairs,  representing  the  twelve  nations 
or  epochs  which  have  conspicuously  contributed  to  the  devel- 
opment of  modern  civilization.  In  several  cases  the  faces  are 
portraits.  They  are  arranged  in  their  historic  sequence,  as 
follows : 

1.  Egypt  (Written  Records)  :  Male  figure,  holding  tab- 
let with  hieroglyphics  and  Tau-cross,  emblem  of  immortality. 
Other  attributes  are  papyrus  scrolls  and  the  cartouche  of 
Mena,  first  Egyptian  King. 

2.  Judea  (Religion)  :  Female  figure,  in  attitude  of  prayer; 
she  wears  an  Ephod  or  priestly  vestment,  inscribed  with  the 
names  of  the  Twelve  Tribes.  Attributes :  a  scroll,  censer 
and  stone  tablet  inscribed  ''Thou  shalt  love  thy  neighbor  as 
thyself,"  Levit.  xix,   18. 

3.  Greece  (Philosophy)  :  Female  figure  in  classic  garb, 
with  diadem.     Attributes :  ancient  bronze  lamp  and  scroll. 

4.  Rome  (Administration)  :  Male  figure,  armed  as  a  Ro- 
man centurion.  Attributes :  a  sword,  the  fasces  and  a  marble 
column. 

5.  Islam  (Physics):  Male  figure  depicting  an  Arab;  he 
holds  a  book  of  mathematics,  and  his  foot  rests  upon  a 
retort. 

6.  Middle  Ages  (Modern  Languages)  :  Female  figure, 
with   sword,   casque   and   cuirass,   emblematic  of  the  Age  of 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS  401 

Chivalry.  Other  attributes  are  a  cathedral,  emblem  of 
Gothic  Architecture,  and  a  Papal  Tiara  and  St.  Peter's  Keys, 
representing  the  Power  of  the  Church.  The  features  are 
those  of  Mary  Anderson. 

7.  Italy  {Fine  Arts)  :  Female  figure,  with  palette  and 
brush  (Painting),  a  capital  (Architecture),  reduced  copy  of 
Michelangelo's  David  (Sculpture)   and  a  violin  (Music). 

8.  Germany  (Art  of  Printing)  :  Male  figure,  garbed  as  a 
fifteenth  century  printer,  reading  proofs  from  the  hand-press 
beside  him.  The  face  is  a  characterization  of  General 
Thomas  L.  Casey. 

9.  Spain  (Discovery)  :  Male  figure,  representing  a  Span- 
ish adventurer,  clad  in  a  sailor's  leather  jerkin,  and  holding 
the  tiller  of  a  ship.  Other  attributes :  a  sword,  a  globe  and 
model  of  a  caravel. 

10.  England  (Literature)  :  Female  figure  in  Elizabethan 
garb,  holding  a  volume  of  Shakespeare's  plays,  open  to  show 
the  title-page  of  "Midsummer  Night's  Dream."  The  features 
are  those  of  the  Shakespearean  actress,  Ellen  Terry. 

11.  France  (Emancipation)  :  Female  figure,  clad  in  tri- 
color jacket  and  Liberty  cap,  characteristic  of  the  First 
Republic.  She  is  seated  on  a  cannon  and  holds  a  copy  of 
the  "Declaration  des  Droits  de  l'Homme."  The  face  is  a 
likeness  of  Mrs.  E.  H.  Blashfield. 

12.  America  (Science)  :  Male  figure,  representing  an 
electrical  engineer,  consulting  a  scientific  work,  with  a 
dynamo  before  'him.  The  face  is  an  adaptation  of  the 
familiar  features  of  Lincoln. 

In  the  crown  of  the  Lantern  there  is  another  allegoric 
painting,  also  by  Blashfield,  representing  The  Human 
Understanding.  Floating  amid  clouds  is  a  female  figure 
attended  by  two  genii.  She  is  lifting  her  veil,  and  has  raised 
her  gaze  from  Finite  Achievement,  as  depicted  in  the  frieze 
below,  to  gaze  wraptly  upward  into  Infinity. 

The  Rotunda  Statues.  In  front  of  each  of  the  eight 
piers,  and  equalling  them  in  height,  is  an  engaged  column, 
also  of  Numidian  marble,  but  of  paler  tone.  Surmounting 
each  column  is  a  symbolic  statue,  colossal  size  (of  plaster), 
representing  some  department  of  Human  Thought  and  De- 
velopment. In  each  of  the  pendentives  above  these  statues 
is  a  plaster  group  consisting  of  a  pair  of  winged  child- 
figures  (modeled  by  Martigny),  supporting  an  oblong  tablet 
bearing  in  gold  letters  an  appropriate    quotation.     These  in- 


402  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

scriptions  were  chosen  by  Dr.  Charles  W.  Eliot.  Between 
the  columns  and  those  surmounting  the  balustrade  which 
guards  the  Visitors'  Gallery  is  a  series  of  bronze  portrait 
statues,  heroic  size,  grouped  in  pairs,  each  pair  representing 
men  who  have  achieved  fame  in  the  special  department 
denoted  by  the  symbolic  statue  immediately  adjoining  on  the 
L.  The  symbolic  statues,  quotations  and  bronze  portrait 
statues  occupy  the  following  order,  beginning  on  the  south 
side  of  the  western  or  entrance  alcove  of  the  gallery,  and 
continuing  from  L.  to  R.  around  the  Rotunda : 

1.  Religion,  by  Theodore  Baur;  attribute,  a  flower,  sig- 
nifying God  revealed  in  Nature.  Portrait-statues :  a.  Moses, 
by  Charles  H.  Niehaus  (b.  1855)  ;  b.  St.  Paul,  by  John 
Donoghue.     Inscription  : 

"What  doth  the  Lord  require  of  thee,  but  to  do  justly,  to  love  mercy, 
and  to    walk  humbly   with   thy   God?" — Micah   vi,    8. 

2.  Commerce,  by  John  Flanagan  (b.  1865)  ;  attributes,  a 
schooner  and  a  locomotive.  Portrait-statues :  c.  Robert  Ful- 
ton, by  Edward  C.  Potter;  d.  Columbus,  by  Paul  W.  Bart- 
lett.    Inscription : 

"We  taste  the  spices  of  Arabia,  yet  never  feel  the  scorching  sun 
which  brings  them  forth." — Consideration  on  East  India  Trade  (Anony- 
mous). 

3.  History,  by  Daniel  C.  French;  attributes,  a  book  and 

a  mirror,  reflecting  the  past.     Portrait-statues  :    e.  Gibbon,  by 

Niehaus;    f.  Herodotus,  by  French.     Inscription: 

"One  God,  one  law,  one  element, 

And  one  far-off  divine  event, 

To  which  the  whole  creation  moves." — Tennyson. 

4.  Art,  by  Dozzi  of  France,  after  designs  by  Augustus 
St.  Gaudens;  attributes,  a  laurel  crown,  a  model  of  the  Par- 
thenon, a  mallet,  and  brush  and  palette.  Portrait-statues : 
g.  Michelangelo,  by  Paul  IV.  Bartlett;  h.  Beethoven,  by  The- 
odore Baur.     Inscription : 

"As    one    lamp    lights    another,    nor    grows    less, 
So  nobleness  enkindleth  nobleness." — Lowell. 

5.  Philosophy,  by  Bela  L.  Pratt;  attribute,  a  book.  Por- 
trait-statues :  i.  Lord  Bacon,  by  John  J.  Boyle  (b.  1852)  ; 
j.  Plato,  by  Boyle.     Inscription: 

"The  inquiry,  knowledge,  and  belief  of  truth  is  the  sovereign  good 
of   human   nature." — Bacon. 

6.  Poetry,  by  /.  Q.  A.  Ward;  attribute,  a  scroll.  Por- 
trait-statues :  k.  Homer,  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens;  1. 
Shakespeare,  by  Frederick  W .  MacMonnies.    Inscription : 

"Hither,   as   to   their   fountain,   other   stars 

Repairing,   in  their  golden  urns   draw  light." — Milton. 


WASHINGTON   SOUTHEAST  403 

7.  Law,  by  Bartlett;  attributes,  a  scroll  and  a  stone  table 
of  laws.  Portrait-statues :  m.  Kent,  by  George  W .  Bissell; 
n.  Solon,  by  Frederick  IV.  Ruckstuhl.     Inscription: 

"Of  Law  there  can  be  no  less  acknowledged  than  that  her  voice  is 
the  harmony  of  the  world." — Hooker. 

8.  Science,  by  Donoghue;  attributes,  a  mirror,  triangle 
and  terrestrial  globe.  Portrait-statues :  o.  Joseph  Henry,  by 
Herbert  Adams;    p.  Newton,  by   C.  E.  Ballin.     Inscription: 

"The  Heavens  declare  the  glory  of  God;  and  the  firmament  showeth 
His  handiwork." — Psalms  xix,  i. 

II.     From  the  Library  of  Congress  to  the 
Congressional  Cemetery 

a.     Washington  Southeast 

Southeast  Washington,  which  the  City's  founders  con- 
fidently expected  to  be  the  residential  centre  of  the  future 
Capital,  offers  today  comparatively  little  of  interest  to  the 
visitor.  Aside  from  the  Library  of  Congress  (p.  369),  the 
entire  section  may  easily  be  covered  in  a  few  hours  by  follow- 
ing the  itinerary  here  given. 

On  the  site  of  the  Library  of  Congress,  E.  side  of 
1st  St.,  from  East  Capitol  St.  to  B  St.  S.  E.,  formerly 
stood  several  historic  buildings.  Long's  Hotel,  at  the  S.  E. 
cor.  of  East  Capitol  and  1st  Sts.,  was  the  scene  of  the  first 
inaugural  ball  given  in  Washington,  on  the  occasion  of  Madi- 
son's inauguration,  March  4th,  1809.  At  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  1st 
and  A  Sts.  (immediately  S.  E.  of  the  Hinton  Perry  Neptune's 
Fountain),  is  the  site  of  the  building  occupied  by  General 
Ross  and  Admiral  Cockburn,  as  British  headquarters,  August 
24th,  1814.  E.  on  B  St.,  at  former  No.  120,  about  midway 
on  S.  side  of  Library,  once  stood  the  house  of  Guiseppe  Fran- 
zoni.  Diagonally  opposite,  No.  131  B  St.,  is  the  house 
occupied  by  William  Jennings  Bryan  while  a  member  of 
Congress.  Turning  W.  we  reach,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  1st  and  B 
Sts.,  the  

House  Office  Building  (PI.  I — 1E4)  occupying  the  block 
bounded  by  B  and  C  Sts.,  1st  St.  and  New  Jersey  Ave.  S.  E. 
It  is  in  form  a  hollow  square  enclosing  a  court  nearly  300 
ft.  square,  while  its  total  frontage  is  nearly  a  third  of  a 
mile.  Its  style  is  a  French  interpretation  of  the  classic  order, 
as  appears  especially  in  the  main,  or  B  St.,  facade,  which  has 
a  colonnade  of  34  fluted  columns  grouped  in  pairs,  and  flanked 
on  E.  and  W.  by  pavilions  modeled  from  the  Colonnade  du 
Louvre,   Paris,   while  the   whole  fagade   is   reminiscent   of  the 


404  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Garde  Meuble  of  the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  The  materials  of 
the  exterior  are :  for  B  St.  and  New  Jersey  Ave.  f acades, 
South  Dover  (N.  Y.)  marble;  C  and  1st  Sts.  facades,  Georgia 
marble;  inner  court,  Bedford  (Ind.)  limestone.  Both  the 
House  and  Senate  Office  Buildings  (p.  365)  were  designed  by 
Carrere  &  Hastings,  Mr.  Carrere  (being  consulting  architect 
for  the  former  and  Mr.  Hastings  for  the  latter  building. 
Supervising  architect,  Elliott  Woods. 

Owing  to  the  sharp  southward  slope  of  the  street  grade 
the  C  St.  entrance  is  on  the  level  of  the  basement,  and  a 
driveway  completely  encircles  the  inner  court.  Here  the  out- 
going and  incoming  mails  are  handled  and  supplies  received, 
both  for  this  building  and  the  Capitol,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  an  ample  subway. 

The  main  entrance  is  at  the  corner  of  B  and  1st  Sts.,  and 
opens  directly  into  an  imposing  rotunda  which  rises  from 
the  second,  or  main  floor,  to  the  roof,  and  is  surmounted  by 
a  dome.  Its  chief  feature  is  a  circle  of  eighteen  marble 
columns  standing  on  a  marble  arcade,  the  whole  being  en- 
closed within  a  circular  wall  or  shell.  The  diameter  of  the 
rotunda,  measured  from  wall  to  wall,  is  75^2  ft. ;  that  of 
the  circle  of  columns  is  57  ft. ;  height  from  floor  to  eye  of 
dome  is  68  ft.  Back  of  the  rotunda  is  the  main  double  stair- 
way, broken  by  frequent  landings,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
monumental  stairways  of  the  Italian  Renaissance.  The  large 
rectangular  space  behind  these  stairs  is  devoted,  on  the  base- 
ment floor,  to  barber  shops,  etc.,  on  the  second  floor  to  the 
Post  Office,  and  on  the  third  to  a  spacious  Conference,  or 
Caucus  Room. 

The  first  four  floors  are  devoted  mainly  to  offices,  which 
are  arranged  around  the  quadrangle  in  a  double  row,  separ- 
ated by  a  twelve-foot  corridor.  There  are  397  of  these  rooms, 
all  measuring  16x23^  feet. 

Congress  appropriated  for  the  House  Office  $3,100,000. 
This  is  regarded  by  architects  as  a  remarkably  low  expendi- 
ture in  consideration  of  the  size  of  the  building,  and  the  vast 
amounts  of  material  required.  For  instance,  no  less  than 
285.000  cubic  ft.  of  cut  stone  was  ordered,  constituting,  it  is 
said,  the  largest  contract  of  its  kind  ever  given. 

Opposite,  on  S.  W.  cor.  of  New  Jersey  Ave.  (No.  3 
B  St.),  is  a  large  four-story  structure  of  gray  granite,  origi- 
nally built  by  General  Benjamin  F.  Butler.  President  Arthur 
lived  here  during  the  early  months  of  his  administration. 
The  building  is  now  occupied  by  the  U.  S.  Public  Health 
Service,  and  office  of  the  Surgeon  General. 


WASHINGTON   SOUTHEAST  4<>5 

Continuing  S.  of  New  Jersey  Ave.  we  pass,  on  W.,  the 
plain  brick  structure  housing  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey, 
a  branch  of  the  Department  of  Commerce. 

The  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  is  charged  with  the  survey  of  all 
coasts  tinder  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States,  including  the  survey 
of  rivers  to  the  head  of  tidewater;  deep-sea  soundings  along  said  coa  ts, 
and  throughout  the  Gulf  of  Japan  streams;  also  magnetic  observations 
and  researches.  The  results  obtained  are  published  in  annual  reports, 
and  in  special  publications,  including  sailing  charts,  harbor  charts, 
tide  tables,  notices  to  mariners,   etc. 

The  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  contains  an  important  library, 
founded  about  1832,  with  a  nucleus  of  technical  books  purchased  in 
1816  by  Mr.  Hassler,  first  Superintendent  of  the  Survey.  The  re- 
sources of  the  library  are  approximately  25,000  volumes  and  pamphlets; 
35,000  maps,  charts  and  blue-prints  (domestic  and  foreign)  ;  69,000 
field  records  (sent  in  by  surveying  parties) ;  13,000  negatives  and  prints 
of  surveying  work,  and  of  Alaska,  Northern,  Northeastern  and  North- 
western boundary  surveys.  The  library  is  particularly  strong  in  mathe- 
matics, astronomy,  hydrography,  terrestrial  magnetism  and  boundaries 
of   the   United   States. 

Regulations.  Open  9  A.  M.  to  4  P.  M.  daily,  except  Sundays  and 
Holidays.  Reference  library  primarily  for  the  use  of  the  Bureau,  but 
free   to   students  properly   vouched   for. 

Immediately  S.  on  New  Jersey  Ave.,  W.  side,  are  several 
hotels.  Congress  Hall  (p.  4),  midway  in  the  block,  is  espe- 
cially popular  with  Congressmen,  housing  at  present  three 
Senators  and  seventy-eight  Representatives.  The  Potomac, 
formerly  the  Neiu  Varnum,  at  iN.  W.  cor.  of  C  St.  (p:  4) 
although  thoroughly  modernized,  is  a  venerable  structure  with 
an  interesting  history. 

The  Potomac  was  originally  a  range  of  three  dwellings,  built  by 
Thomas  Law,  son  of  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Carlisle,  who  was  brother  of 
Baron  Ellenborough.  Mr.  Law  was  a  talented  but  eccentric  man,  and 
ruler  of  a  populous  district  in  East  India.  He  married  Elizabeth  Parke 
Custis,  granddaughter  of  Martha  Washington,  and  invested  his  fortune 
in  Washington  lots  and  improvements.  The  corner  dwelling  was  Conrad 
and  McMvnn's  when  the  Government  moved  to  Washington  in  1800, 
and  here  Thomas  Jefferson,  Vice-President,  and  Albert  Gallatin  were 
guests.  It  became  one  of  the  five  Stelle's  Hotels  about  the  Capitol 
Square. 

Opposite,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  C  St.,  stands  the  George  Wash- 
ington Inn   (p.  4). 

One  block  S.,  at  the  intersection  of  New  Jersey  Ave.  and 
D.  St.,  is  the  site  of  the  historic  Carroll  Tobacco  House,  for 
thirty  years  the  meeting  house  of  Christ  Church  (p.  406), 
then,  from  1807  to  181 1,  of  the  Ebenezer  Methodist  Church 
(p.  411). 

Immediately  beneath  this  crossways  is  the  beginning  of  the  tunnel 
under  Capitol  Hill  to  Union  Station,  used  by  the  Lines  to  Virginia 
and  the  South   (entrance  to  tunnel  on  W.). 

The  Capitol  Power  Plant,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  New  Jersey 
Ave.  and  E  St.,  is  a  conspicuous  landmark  with  its  two  lofty 


406  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

yellow  brick  chimneys.  At  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  the  building 
is  a  huge  cornerstone  of  granite,  easily  seen  even  from  passing 
trolley  cars  ioo  feet  away. 

Grecnmilvi01^  J*  *%**&'' J*  formerIy  served  as  the  pedestal  of 
Ureenoughs  statue  of  Washington,  during-  the  vears  that  it  stnnH 
opposite  the  E.  fagade  of  the  Capitol.  Thf  N  side  of  the  stone  Sill 
CS  eJ°rdS'  FirSt  in  War>"but  they  are  practically  hidden  behind 
Lftr ^.  young   evergreens.      The   rear   side   inscription   "First   in   the 

intendenf  ^"Sv****'  Can  l*"  H  read  in  the  ceUa*>  so  th«  Super* 
visitors  enquirers-but    the     building     is    closed    to     casual 

The  Power  Plant  occupies  a  portion  of  the  irregular  L-shaned  nlnt 
constituting  Garfield  Park,  a  large  part  of  which  £ gLen  over  to  a 
children  s   open-air  gymnasium   and   playground. 

t  Thlle  bl?Ckl?-  of  x9arfield  Park,  on  G  St.,  midway  be- 
tween 6th  and  7th  Sts,  N.  side,  stands  the  Protestant  Episco- 
pal Christ  Church,  one  of  the  three  oldest  churches  within  the 
district  limits.  It  was  organized  in  1705,  but  is  said  to  be  the 
successor  of  an  earlier  organization  dating  from  177s  The 
two  organizations  worshiped  successively  for  thirty  years  in 

ure'tte'T11  ^t^l  H°USe  ('P"  4°5)  The  PreseTsSu" 
SS  t **  fr«?  1807;  but  it  was  first  used  in  1809,  and  not 
dedicated  by  Bishop  Claggett  of  Maryland  until  Oct.  7,  1810 
Here  Presidents  Jefferson  and  Madison  attended  service  It 
v  Peen,  however,  recently  restored  to  such  an  extent 'that 
it  might  be  mistaken  for  a  modern  structure. 

commonWkn^t0^0^^  Ch^ch  belongs  Christ  Church  Cemetery; 
commonly  known  as  the  Congressional  Burying  Ground  situated  c-n  th~ 
bank  of  the  Anacostia<  River,  at  E  and   i7th   Its     S  E  '  (p    408). 

One  block  E.  of  Christ  Church,  at  G  and  8th  Sts ,  we 
reach  the  Marine  Barracks,  a  group  of  yellow  buildings  occu- 
pying an  entire  square,  and  constituting  the  home  station 
and  headquarters  of  the  Marine  Corps.  The  chief  object  of 
interest  here  was,  until  its  recent  demolition,  the  Old  Centre 
Building  erected  in  1802  of  bricks  brought  from  England 
Aaron  Burr  was  for  a  time  imprisoned  here  after  killing 
Alexander  Hamilton  in  a  duel  in  1804.  The  British  used  th? 
building  for_  their  headquarters  during  the  occupation  of 
Washington  m  1814.  The  Order  of  the  Knights  of  Pythias 
was  founded  and  their  ritual  written  here  in  1864  Amon°- 
historic  prisoners  was  Admiral  Raphael  Semmes  of  the  Con- 
federate Navy,  who  was  held  here  for  three  months. 

At  present  the  only  interest  of  the  Marine  Barracks  to 
the  average  visitor  is  the  fact  that  it  is  the  residence  of 
the  famous  "Marine  Band,  the  only  military  band  always 
stationed  at  Washington,  and  available  for  all  military  cere- 
monials. 


WASHINGTON   SOUTHEAST  407 

History.  The  Act  establishing  the  Marine  Corps,  and  approved  by 
President  Adams,  July  nth,  1798,  included  a  section  providing  for  a 
drum  and  fife  corps,  consisting  of  sixteen  drummers  and  sixteen 
nfers.  These  constituted  the  Marine  Band  until  1801,  when  Lieut. - 
Col.  Archibald  Henderson  brought  from  Naples  thirteen  Italian  musi- 
cians. It  was  not  until  half  a  century  later  that  the  Band  first  acquired 
its  fame  under  the  leadership  of  Francis  Scala,  who,  except  for  a 
brief  interval,  was  its  conductor  from  1843  to  187 1.  It  was  he  who 
inaugurated  the  open-air  concerts  at  the  White  House  and  on  the 
Capitol  grounds,  a  custom  which  is  still  continued.  Among  the  Band's 
distinguished  leaders  was  John  Philip  Sousa,  1880-92.  In  1861  President 
Lincoln  signed  a  law  recognizing  the  Marine  Band  as  part  of  the 
military  service  of  the  United  States.  In  1898,  under  President  Mc- 
Kinley,  the  Band  was  reorganized  and  increased  to  seventy-three  mem- 
bers, consisting  of  the  Leader,  with  pay  and  allowances  of  a  First 
Lieutenant  of  the  Marine  Corps;  a  second  Leader,  at  $75.00  per 
month;  thirty  first-class  musicians  at  $60.00;  thirty  second-class  musi- 
cians at  $50.00;  ten  privates  and  a  Drum-major.  All  the  members  must 
enlist   for   four  years. 

It  is  an  interesting  coincidence  that  John  Philip  Sousa,  long  identified 
with  the  Marine  Band,  was  born  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  on 
G  St.,  S.E.,  near  old  Christ  Church,  Nov.  6,   1854. 

Four  blocks  S.,  on  M  St.,  is  the  United  States  Navy 
Yard,  established  in   1804. 

The  Navy  Yard  (PI.  Ill— G5),  situated  at  the  foot  of 
8th  St.,  S.E.,  on  the  bank  of  the  broad  tidal  estuary  of  the1 
Anacostia  River,  occupies  approximately  40  acres,  much  of 
which  is  made  ground.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest  government 
shipyards  in  the  country,  having  been  established  in  1800,  for 
the  purpose  of  constructing  several  vessels  of  war.  Owing, 
however,  to  the  difficult  navigation  of  the  Potomac  River,  it 
has  never  been  important  as  a  building  station.  Its  machine 
shops,  however,  are  extensive  and  interesting,  for  this  has 
long  been  one  of  the  chief  Government  establishments  for 
constructing  the  equipment    for  war  vessels. 

To-day  there  is  comparatively  little  of  interest  to  attract 
the  tourist.  The  historic  entrance  gate,  designed  by  Benjamin 
H.  Latrobe,  has  given  place  to  a  modem  gateway;  the  spa- 
cious parade  ground  has  been  largely  built  over  with  machine 
shops,  and  the  original  Commandant's  House,  purposely  placed 
by  Latrobe,  in  the  center  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Yard,  where 
"the  whole  Yard  would  be  under  his  eye,"  is  no  longer  stand- 
ing, although  the  present  Commandant's  House  occupies  its 
site.  There  is  a  Museum  which  contains  trophies  from  the 
British,  Mexican  and  Civil  Wars;  also  two  old-fashioned 
bronze  muzzle-loading  cannon,  made  in  Barcelona  in  1788, 
and  captured  from  the  Tripolitans  by  Decatur  in  1814. 


408  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

b.    The    Congressional    Cemetery 

The  Congressional  Cemetery  is  most  directly  reached 
from  the  Navy  Yard  by  walking  E.  on  Potomac  Ave.  (one 
mile).  The  visitor,  however,  will  save  exertion,  if  not  time, 
by  taking  the  trolley  N.  on  8th  St.,  and  transferring  to  the 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  line  southeast  to  17th  St. 

The  ^Congressional  Cemetery  (PI.  Ill — F6),  compris- 
ing a  tract  of  about  30  acres,  is  situated  at  the  extreme  S.  E. 
corner  of  the  city,  overlooking  the  Anacostia  River,  and 
bounded  on  the  W.  by  17th  St.,  and  on  the  N.  by  Potomac 
Ave.  and  E  St.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Vestry  of  Christ 
Church  (p.  406),  and  is  officially  known  as  "The  Washington 
Parish  Burial  Ground."  Reached  directly  by  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  car  marked  "17th  Street   S.  W." 

When  this  cemetery  was  first  established  in  1807,  it  was  chosen 
by  Congress  as  the  place  of  interment  for  practically  all  Senators, 
Representatives  and  Executive  Officers  who  died  in  office.  Because  of 
its  semi-official  character,  the  Government  has  from  time  to  time 
made  appropriations  for  its  maintenance  and  improvement.  Until 
about  1835  practically  every  member  of  Congress  who  died  while 
holding  office  was  buried  here.  But  gradually,  as  facilities  for  trans- 
portation increased,  it  became  easier  for  relatives  to  bury  their  dead 
at  their  former  homes;  and  by  1855  interment  of  non-resident  officials 
had  practically  ceased.  Meanwhile,  however,  the  custom  had  grown 
up  of  erecting  a  cenotaph  in  memory  of  each  Senator  or  Representa- 
tive who  died  in  office,  notwithstanding  that  they  were  buried  elsewhere. 
The  precedent  was  first  established  in  case  of  the  Hon.  John  Lent  of 
New  York,  who  died  February  23d,   1838. 

These  official  monuments  and  cenotaphs,  unique  in  their  ugliness, 
form  the  most  striking  feature  of  the  cemetery.  They  are  of  sand- 
stone and  consist  of  a  six-foot  square  base,  surmounted  by  a  pyramidal 
top  reaching  to  a  height  of  about  five  feet.  The  inscriptions  show  fre- 
quent carelessness,  the  stone-cutter  having  been  often  content  to  leave 
the  dates  blank.  It  is  not  known  who  selected  this  form  of  monument; 
but  from  the  time  of  the  erection  of  the  first  one  by  the  Government 
in  1807  (for  Sen.  Uriah  Tracy  of  Conn.),  the  pattern  was  adhered 
to  until  1877.  when  an  Act  abolishing  the  custom  was  passed  on  motion 
of  Senator  Hoar,  who  argued  that  "it  certainly  added  new  terrors  to 
death  to  propose  that  in  any  contingency,  whatever  might  be  the  poverty 
or  degradation  of  any  member  of  Congress,  his  body  should  be  put 
under  a   structure   similar  to  those  now   there." 

The  official  interments  include  10  Senators,  74  Representatives  and 
a  miscellaneous  list  of  25  others,  civil  and  military.  Among  the  latter 
were  formerly  General  Rawlins,  War  Secretary  under  Grant,  Abel 
P.  Upshur,  Secretary  of  State  under  Tyler  and  Captain  Beverley 
Kennon,  the  last  two  killed  by  an  explosion  on  the  Warship  Princeton, 
February  28th,    1844.     Above  three   subsequently   removed. 

There  are  two  gates  on  the  17th  St.  side,  adjacent  to  the 
trollev  terminus.  The  main  entrance  is  on  E  St.  side,  adjoining 
the  Superintendent's  lodge.  East  of  the  lodge  lies  the  chief 
section  of  interest,  containing  a  majority  of  the  oldest  graves. 
The  path  following  the  northern  fence  is  Tingey  Ave.,  named 


THE  CONGRESSIONAL  CEMETERY  409 

from  the  first  grave  on  R.  beyond  the  lodge,  that  of  Commo- 
dore Tingey  (1750-1820),  second  in  command  in  the  Algerian 
War. 

Continuing  E.  on  Tingey  Ave.,  we  reach,  near  eastern 
corner  of  third  transverse  path  to  S.,  a  conspicuous  marble 
monument  to  Elbridge  Gerry,  Mass.  (1744-1814),  Signer  and 
Vice-President  of  the  United  States,  whose  name  gave  the 
verb,  "to  gerrymander."  The  monument  consists  of  a  pyra- 
midal shaft  surmounted  by  an  urn  and  flaming  torch 
(//'.  and  J.  France,  New  York,  sculptors).  Erected  by  Act 
of  Congress.  The  inscription  embodies  Gerry's  memorable 
injunction,  "It  is  the  duty  of  every  citizen,  though  he  may 
have  but  one  day  to  live,  to  devote  that  day  to  the  good  of  his 
country."  Immediately  behind  (E.)  the  Gerry  grave  are 
four  monuments  to  the  Lear  family,  the  southernmost  (flat 
table-stone)  marking  the  grave  of  Tobias  Lear,  the  last  private 
Secretary  of  Washington. 

Twenty-five  ft.  S.  of  the  Lear  lot  is  the  grave  of  Richard 
Bland  Lee  (1761-1827),  a  distinguished  member  of  the  historic 
Lee    family. 

Immediately  adjoining  the  Lee  grave,  on  S.W.,  is  the 
monument  to  Hugh  George  Campbell,  Captain  U.S.N.  (1758- 
1820),  who  was  a  volunteer  on  the  first  vessel  of  war  in 
1775-  Southwest,  on  E.  side  of  path,  about  80  ft.  from  Tingey 
Ave.,  is  the  grave  of  Chevalier  Frederick  Grehum,  German 
Minister  to  the  U.S.  (1770-1823).  The  inscription  records  that 
the  monument  was  erected  "by  order  of  His  Majesty  Frederick 
William  III,  King  of  Prussia."  The  next  grave  S.  is  that 
of  Catherine  de  Bresson,  wife  of  an  attache  of  the  French 
Ministry;  and  next  in  order,  the  grave  of  Pushmataha  (1764- 
1824),   a   Choctaw  Chief. 

During  the  Pensacola  campaign  Pushmataha  served  loyally  under 
Jackson  with  2500  Braves.  Subsequently  with  his  tribe  he  settled  in 
Arkansas,  and  in  1824  came  to  Washington  at  the  head  of  a  delega- 
tion "to  brighten  the  chain  of  peace  between  the  Americans  and  the 
Choctaws."  The  concessions  he  requested  were  granted,  but  Push- 
mataha himself,  returning  from  a  visit  to  General  Lafayette,  was 
stricken  with  diphtheria  and  died.  His  last  request  was  "When  I  am 
dead  let  the  big  guns  be  fired  over  me.!'  The  inscription  on  the 
tombstone  contains  the  following  lines  from  the  eulogy  pronounced  by 
John  Randolph  of  Roanoke:  "Pushmataha  was  a  warrior  of  great 
distinction.  He  was  wise  in  counsel,  eloquent  in  an  extraordinary 
degree,  and,  on  all  occasions  and  under  all  circumstances,  the  white 
man's  friend." 

On  W.  side  of  path  facing  the  Grehum  grave  is  that 
of  George  Hadfield  (died  1826),  and  next  to  him  lies  William 
Elliott  (bo>th  architects  of  the  Capitol).  A  few  feet  S.  lie 
William  Thornton,  the  original  designer  of  the  Capitol  (1762- 


410  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

1829)  ;  and  beside  him  his  wife,  Anna,  and  her  mother,  Ann 
Brodeau.  Further  S.  lies  Walter  Jones  (1775-1861),  who 
served  in  the  Battle  of  Bladensiburg,  and  later,  for  nearly 
forty  years,  was  Brig.  Gen.  of  the  D.  C.  Militia. 

Near  the  center  of  the  grounds  is  a  small  Gothic  chapel, 
erected  1903.  The  first  conspicuous  monument,  N.E.  from 
this  chapel,  is  a  broken  column  of  marble  marking  the  grave 
of  Gen.  Jacob  Brown  (1775-1828),  at  the  time  of  his  death 
Commanding  General  of  the  American  Army. 

Other  distinguished  persons  here  interred  include :  Philip 
Pendleton  Barbour  (1783-1841),  Justice  of  the  U.S.  Supreme 
Court;  Joseph  Lovell  (1788-1836),  Surgeon  General  of  the 
U.  S.  Army,  and  John  W.  Maury  and  John  T.  Powers, 
ex -Mayors  of  Washington.  Among  those  whose  remains  rested 
here  temporarily  were :  President  Taylor,  John  C.  Calhoun 
and  Mrs.  Dolly  Madison  (the  latter  from  February  nth, 
1852,  to  January   12th,   1858;   removed  to  Virginia). 

The  extensive  group  of  buildings  directly  N.E.  of  the 
cemetery  include  the  Small-pox  Hospital,  Quarantine  Sta- 
tion, Disinfection  Plant  and  Crematory;  also  the  Washing- 
ton Asylum  and  Jail.  In  the  latter  Charles  Guiteau,  the 
assassin  of  President  Garfield,  was  confined  and  executed. 

Returning  W.  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  we  pass  on  S. 
side,  between  9th  and  10th  Sts.  S.E.,  the  headquarters  of  the 
United  States  Naval  Reserve.  Directly  W.,  at  the  S.E.  cor. 
of  9th  St.,  the  visitor  should  note  the  Eastern  Branch  Hotel, 
or  "TunniclifFs  Tavern,"  believed  to  be  the  oldest  surviving 
structure  within  the  former  city  limits.  The  date  of  its 
erection  is  not  known,  but  there  is  a  record  of  its.  sale  in 
1795,  and  the  following  year  it  was  opened  as  a  tavern  by 
William  Tunnicliff,  later  proprietor  of  the  Washington  City 
Hotel, 

The  building  is  a  quaint  square  two-story  structure,  measuring 
thirty-six  feet  each  way.  It  is  massively  built,  the  foundation  and 
basement  walls  being  three  feet  thick.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  steep, 
sloping  roof,  and  an  octagonal  cupola.  Having  been  built  before 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  was  cut  through,  it  originally  fronted  on  an  old 
road  leading  to  the  "Upper  Ferry"  of  the  Eastern  Branch,  and  later 
to  the  "Middle  Bridge,"  constructed  in  1795,  which  brought  a  steady 
How  of  traffic  past  the  tavern.  In  its  immediate  neighborhood  was  the 
first  race-track  established  in  the  District.  The  tavern  itself  was  the 
scene  of  the  first  ball  given  by  the  Washington  Dancing  Assembly, 
in   December,    1796. 

After  passing  through  several  hands,  this  property  was  purchased 
in  1821  by  Captain  William  Easby,  a  ship-builder,  who  for  many 
years  was  employed  as  Master-builder  in  the  Washington  Navy  Yard; 
and  it  remained  the  home  of  the  Easby  family  until  1857.  The 
ground  in   the  ^vicinity  was  so   marshy  that  it   was  necessary   for   many 


WASHINGTON  SOUTHEAST  4U 

years  to  maintain  a  ditch,  or  moat,  on  the  Pennsylvania  Ave.  front, 
lrom  which  fact  the  house  was  long  afterward  popularly  known  by  the 
name   of   "Warwick." 

At  8th  St.  Pennsylvania  and  South  Carolina  Aves.  inter- 
sect. Just  N.,  on  7th  St.,  near  C  St.,  stands  the  Eastern  High 
School.  Two  squares  E.,  at  intersection  with  North  Carolina 
Ave,  is  a  small  rectangular  park  called  Seward  Place. 

Facing  this  park,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  5th  St.,  stands  Trinity 
M.  E.  Church,  successor  to  the  Ebenezer  M.  E.  Church  (or- 
ganized 1802).  This,  the  oldest  Methodist  church  in  Wash- 
ington, held  its  first  meetings  in  a  private  dwelling  on 
Greenleaf's  Point;  then,  1807-11,  in  the  Carroll  Tobacco 
House ;  then  in  a  new  building  on  4th  St.,  between  South 
Carolina  A.ve.  and  G  St.  When  in  1857  the  congregation 
moved  to  the  present  site,  the  former  church  was  demolished. 
The  present  edifice  dates   from  1896. 

No.  206  Pennsylvania  Ave.  S.E.,  is  the  building  in  which 
for  a  time  the  United  States  Supreme  Court  met  after  the 
burning  of  the  Capitol  in  1814.  It  is  now  temporarily  occu- 
pied by  the  International  Reform  Bureau,  organized  in  1895 
for  the  purpose  of  "promoting  those  Christian  reforms  on 
which  the  churches  sociologically  unite,  while'  theologically 
differing." 

The  Bureau  has  a  library  of  several  thousand  volumes  and  a 
large  collection  of  clippings,  which  will  be  open  to  the  public  for 
reference  upon  the  completion  of  the  Bureau's  permanent  home  at 
the  corner  of   Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  B   St.   S.E. 

One  block  S.  on  2d  St.,  at  S.W.  cor.  of  C  St.  S.E., 
stands  St.  Peter's  Church,  the  second  oldest  R.  C.  church 
in  Washington.  The  first  holdings  of  this  church  consisted 
of  a  tract  given  by  Daniel  Carroll  to  his  brother,  Bishop 
Carroll.  The  corner-stone  of  the  first  edifice  was  laid  in 
1817,  and  the  first  Mass  celebrated  in  1821.  The  present 
church  is  a  handsome  Gothic  structure  of  light  gray  stone, 
erected  on  the  old  site  in  1890,  at  a  cost  of  $100,000. 
Note  the  bas-relief  lunettes  over  the  three  entrances  on  the 
main  facade,  representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Peter, 
the  central  one  showing  Christ  presenting  to  Peter  the  Key 
of  the  Church. 

One  block  S.  on  D  St.  is  the  Providence  Hospital,  founded 
in  1862  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  buildings  were  erected 
with  the  aid  of  Government  appropriation,  amounting  to 
$60,000,  obtained  through  the  efforts  of  Thaddeus  Stevens. 


412  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

III.     Anacostia 

The  suburb  of  Anacostia  (PI.  Ill — G5),  lying  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  Anacostia  River,  or  Eastern  Branch,  diagonally 
opposite  the  Navy  Yard,  preserves  in  name  the  Nacoch- 
tanks  or  Anacostans,  once  a  part  of  the  great  Powhatan  Con- 
federacy, whose  hunting  grounds  included  this  district.  Early 
chronicles  tell  how  for  sake  of  the  "goodly  corne  fields," 
the  pinnace  Tiger}  with  26  men,  was  sent  out  from  James- 
town, Va.,  about  the  year  163 1,  to  trade  with  the  Indians 
near  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Potomac  River.  They 
were  attacked,  and  were  all  killed  or  taken  prisoners.  Among 
the  latter  was  a  young  man,  Henry  Fleet,  who  was  held 
captive  for  five  years,  and  learned  the  Powhatan  language 
which,  when  later  ransomed,  he  used  to  much  advantage  on 
subsequent  trading  trips  described  in  Brief  Journal  of  a 
Voyage  (1632).  Numerous  arrowheads  have  been  found  on 
the  slopes  near  the  Navy  Yard  bridge. 

The  full  form  of  the  Indian  name  is  given  as  Anaquash(e)tan{i)k, 
which      is      interpreted      to      mean      "'A      Town      of      Traders."  The 

Jesuits  who  came  out  with  Lord  Baltimore  Latinized  the 
Indian  name,  giving  us  the  present  form  Anacostia.  The  use  of  this 
name  for  the  river,  in  place  of  Eastern  Branch,  was  due  to  a  suggestion 
by  Thomas  Jefferson  who,  in  1792,  requested  Major  Ellicott  to  ascertain 
the  original  name  of  the  stream  and  add  it  to  the  name  Eastern  Branch. 

The  name  Anacostia  was  formerly  applied  to  the  whole  suburban 
section  across  the  river,  southeast  from  Washington.  As  early  as  1795 
James  Greenleaf  foresaw  the  future  possibilities  of  these  suburbs,  and 
purchased  land  "on  the  meanders  of  the  Eastern  Branch,  close  by 
Anacostia  Fort,"  probably  on  the  present  Congress  Heights.  There 
was  already  established  an  Eastern  Branch  ferry,  connecting  with  the 
Upper  Marlboro  Road,  and  running  from  a  point  at  the  foot  of  what 
is  now  Kentucky  Ave.  Here  a  bridge  was  built  in  1795,  known  as 
the  Upper  Bridge.  The  establishment  of  the  Navy  Yard  created  a  need 
for  additional  connection,  and  in  181 8  the  Navy  Yard  Bridge  was  built 
from  the  foot  of  nth  St.  Down  to  about  1850  the  site  now  covered 
by  the  modern  Anacostia,  directly  opposite  the  Navy  Yard,  was  all 
farmland,  comprising  about  240  acres,  and  owned  by  one  Enoch  Tucker, 
boss  blacksmith  in  the  Navy  Yard.  In  1854  this  land  was  bought  by 
the  real  estate  firm  of  Fox  &  Van  Hook  for  $19,000,  and  divided  into 
building  lots.  The  newly  established  settlement  was  first  called  Union- 
town,  but  a  few  years  later  the  name  was  changed  back  to  Anacostia. 

Van  Hook's  residence,  known  as  Cedar  Hill,  later  became 
the  home  of  Frederick  Douglass,  the  only  colored  man  within 
the  District  of  Columbia  to* be  appointed  United  States  Mar- 
shal, and  the  first  Recorder  of  Deeds.  The  property  was 
later  acquired  by  the  Frederick  Douglass  Memorial 
Association. 

On  the  river's  edge,  opposite  the  Navy  Yard,  was  the 
mansion  of  George  W.  Talburtt.  An  ancient  remnant  is  still 
pointed  out  which  is  claimed  to  be  part  of  the  original  dwell- 


ANACOSTIA  413 

ing.  G.  W.  Talburtt  and  John  Howard  Payne,  author  of 
"Home,  Sweet  Home,"  were  intimate  friends  and  boon  com- 
panions : 

"They  used  to  sit  for  hours  together  under  the  spreading  branches 
of  an  old  tree,  singing  and  playing  favorite  airs;  and  it  is  a  matter  of 
neighborhood  gossip  that  jolly  old  Bacchus  looked  on  approvingly  on 
those  occasions." — George  Simmons,  "Roadside  Sketches."  {Evening 
Star,    1 891.) 

Aside  from  the  associations  of  the  old  Talburtt  place 
with  John  Howard  Payne,  there  is  little  to  attract  the  visitor 
to  the  S.  side  of  the  river.  The  higher  ground,  southward 
from  the  shore,  bears  the  modern  name  of  Congress  Heights, 
where  a  large  tract  is  occupied  by  St.  Elizabeth's  Hospital 
(PI.  Ill — H5 — No.  68),  from  the  grounds  of  which  there  is 
an  almost  unrivalled  view  of  Washington,  which  has  been 
reproduced  on  at  least  one  issue  of  Government  greenbacks. 

St.  Elizabeth's  Hospital  is  a  National  institution,  under  charge  of 
the  Interior  Department,  for  the  treatment  of  the  insane  of  the  army, 
navy,  marine  corps,  revenue  cutter  and  marine  hospital  service,  also 
indigent  insane  persons  who  have  received  honorable  discharge  from 
army  or  navy,  and  the  indigent  insane  of  the  District  of  Columbia. 
General  visitors  are  admitted  to  the  hospital  on  Wednesdays  between 
2  and   4.30   P.  M. 

Northeast  of  Anacostia  is  the  suburb  known  as  Twining 
City,  named  in  honor  of  the  late  Major  William  J.  Twining, 
for  many  years  the  Engineer  Commissioner  O'f  the  District. 
It  lies  along  the  E.  extension  of  Pennsylvania  Ave. ;  and  the 
bridge  which  here  spans  the  Eastern  Branch,  completed  in 
1890  at  a  cost  of  $170,000,  marks  the  site  of  the  historic  old 
wooden  bridge  which  was  burned  Aug.  24,  1814,  by  the 
authorities  to  check  the  British  advance  from  the  south. 
Just  beyond  the  bridge,  where  Pennsylvania  Ave.  intersects 
with  Minnesota  Ave.  (the  newT  name  for  the  old  Anacostia 
Road),  is  L'Enfant  Square,  the  only  topographical  reminder 
within  the  District  of  the  man  who  planned  Washington. 
Minnesota  Ave.,  though  bfoadened  and  modernized,  is  the 
identical  road  over  which  the  British,  under  General  Ross, 
marched  when  they  fought  and  won  the  battle  of  Bladen s- 
burg. 

North  of  Twining  City  is  the  suburb  of  Benning,  named 
in  honor  of  its  founder,  Captain  William  Benning,  who  built 
the  historic  old  Benning  mansion,  about  1799,  and  constructed 
the  first  toll  bridge  at  this  point  in  1830.  The  modern  Ben- 
ning occupies  part  of  a  large  tract  granted  by  Charles  II. 
to  one  Charles  Beall,  a  Scotchman  by  birth,  and  brother  of 
Ninian  Beall   (p.  462),  founder  of  Georgetown. 


THE  NORTHERN  AND  WESTERN 
SUBURBS 

I.     Bladensburg,  Brookland  and  Vicinity 

a.     Bladensburg 

Bladensburg,  Md.,  situated  N.  E.  of  Washington  about 
V/2  miles  beyond  the  District  Line,  fs  reached  most  directly 
by  the  Columbia  trolley  line  to  15th  and  H  Sts.  N.  E. ;  thence 
north  by  Bladensburg  and  Berwyn  line  along  the  old  ooach- 
road  to  Baltimore  (cars  run  at  intervals  of  40  minutes). 
Half  a  mile  out,  at  N.  W.  cor.  of  Mt.  Olivet  and  Bladensburg 
Roads,  we  pass  the  Catholic  Cemetery  of  Mt.  Olivet.  Here 
may  be  seen  the  grave  of  Mrs.  "Suratt,  the  only  woman 
among  the  convicted  conspirators  who  were  hanged  for  the 
assassination  of  Lincoln ;  also  the  grave  of  Captain  Henry 
Wirtz,  the  notorious  Keeper  of  Andersonville  prison.  A 
mile  beyond  Mt.  Olivet  Cemetery  we  reach,  on  R.,  the 
grounds  of  the  U.  S.  Reform  School  (PI.  Ill — C7)  the 
principal  buildings  of  which  occupy  the  crest  of  a  sloping  hill 
formerly  known  as  Lincoln's  Hill,  a  fort  of  that  name  having 
occupied  the  site  during  the  Civil  War.  Beyond  the 
Reform  School  the  road  slopes  down  into  a  hollow  just 
beyond  the  District  boundary,  and  is  carried  on  a  concrete 
arch  over  a  small  tributary  of  the  Anacostia  River.  In  the 
hollow  on  the  east  side  of  the  road  is  the  famous  Bladensburg 
Duelling  Ground. 

More  than  thirty  duels  are  said  to  have  been  fought  on  this  spot, 
the  most  famous  being  that  between  Commodore  Stephen  Decatur  and 
Commodore  James  Barron  on  March  22A,  1820,  when  the  former 
was  killed.  Just  E.  of  the  road,  the  stream  which  flows  Under  the 
bridge  joins  a  transverse  stream  forming  a  letter  T.  The  left  or 
N.   angle  of  the  T  is  the  spot  where   Decatur   fell. 

Other  notable  duels  are  as  follows:  Here  in  18 14,  Captain  Edward 
Hopkins  was  slain  in  a  duel  with  swords.  On  February  6th,  181 9, 
General  Armistead  T.  Mason,  formerly  Senator,  fought  with  Col.  John 
M.  M'Carty,  both  of  Virginia.  Mason  was  killed.  Here  in  1825, 
Henry  Clay  is  said  to  have  fought  his  bloodless  duel  with  John  Ran- 
dolph, of  Roanoke.  In  1821,  two  employees  of  the  Government,  Fox 
and  Randall,  fought,  the  former  being  killed.  On  April  24th,  1838, 
two  members  of  the  House,  Jonathan  Cilley  of  Maine  and  William  J. 
Graves,  of  Kentucky,  fought  here,  Cilley  being  killed.  In  1851,  two 
other  members  of  Congress,  Stanley  and  Inge,  exchanged  shots,  shook 
hands  and   returned  to  Washington  together. 

It  was  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Duelling  Grounds 
that  Barney  and  his  rear  guard  of  520  men  made  their  gallant 
stand   against   the   British   during  the   Bat  He   of  Bladensburg, 


BLADBNSlBURG  AND  BROOKLAND     415 

while  on  the  rising  ground  half  a  mile  further  on,  was  the 
scene  of  the  disastrous  rout  of  the  troops  under  General 
Winder.  A  modern  concrete  bridge  over  the  Anacostia  or 
Eastern  Branch  here  leads  us  directly  into  the  ancient  village 
of  Bladensburg. 

This  village  was  incorporated  in  1742,  and  named  in  honor  of 
Sir  Thomas  Bladen,  the  Governor  of  Maryland.  In  its  early  years 
it  was  a  thriving  commercial  town,  and  large  barges,  laden  with 
tobacco,  came  and  went  on  the  Anacostia,  which  was  then  a  navigable 
river,  but  has  since  shrunken  to  a  shallow  and  sluggish!  stream.  It  was 
at  Bladensburg  that  Clark  Mills,  the  sculptor,  had  his  work  shops  and 
fmindry;  here  also  was  born  William  Wirt,  the  distinguished  Jurist, 
once  Atty. -General  of  the  United   States. 

Aside  from  the  quaint  old  houses  along  its  principal  street, 
there  is  little  in  the  town  itself  to  interest  the  visitor.  It  has 
the  appearance  of  having  slumbered  since  the  close  of  the 
18th  century.  The  old  George  Washington  Hotel,  where 
Washington  is  said  to  have  stopped,  bears  the  date  of  1732, 
and  a  little  further  up  the  street  is  the  Palo  Alto  House,  in- 
scribed 1734. 

Calvert  Estate.  The  land  N.  of  Bladensburg  for  a  dis- 
tance of  about  two  miles,  reaching  to  Point  Branch,  along 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  present  grounds  of  the  Mary- 
land Agricultural  College,  and  comprising  16,000  acres,  was 
formerly  an  estate  belonging  to  a  branch  of  the  Maryland 
Calverts  who  traced  their  descent  to  Benet  Calvert,  father 
of  the  sixth  Lord  Baltimore,  who,  in  1728,  was  appointed 
Collector  of  Internal  Revenue  in  the  Province  of  Prince 
George,  now  Prince  George  County,  Maryland.  The  old  Lord 
Baltimore  Mansion,  said  to  date  from  about  1775,  is  still 
standing  and  is  in  excellent  preservation. 

It  is  reached  from  Bladensburg  either  by  taking  Bladensburg-Ber- 
wyn  trolley  to  Riversdale  and  then  walking  a  mile  west;  or  by 
walking  W.  from  Bladensburg  to  Hyattsville  and  taking  Maryland 
trolley  line  N.  to  Riversdale,  where  the  stopping  place  is  almost 
opposite  the  Mansion. 

Originally  the  Mansion  occupied  the  centre  of  the  estate,  and  a 
semi-circular  drive  a  mile  in  length  led  from  the  northern  gateway 
southward  to  the  main  entrance.  The  house  remained  in  possession 
of  the  Calvert  family  until  almost  the  close  of  the  19th  century.  The 
grounds,  however,  were  gradually  sold  off;  the  tracks  of  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  R.  R.,  passing  within  a  few  hundred  feet  of  the  Mansion, 
nearly  cut  the  estate  in  two;  and  the  modern  village  of  Rivers- 
dale has  steadily  encroached  until  only  a  fraction  of  the  original 
property  remains.  The  slave-quarters  and  spacious  stables  that  could 
shelter  500  horses  were  still  standing  in  1885,  when  they  were  des- 
troyed  by    fire   from   a   spark    from   a   passing   engine. 

The  title  to  the  Mansion  and  remaining  grounds  was  acquired  by 
the  Riversdale  Land  Company,  by  whom  it  was  conveyed  to  a  Mrs. 
E.  K.  Gordan,  to  whose  extensive  repairs  the  old  building  owes 
its    present    good    condition.     It    is    now    occupied    by    the    Lord    Balti- 


416  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

more  Country  Club,  and  is  not  officially  open  to  the  public.  Strangers, 
however,  applying  during  the  morning  hours  will  usually  receive  permis- 
sion   to    visit    the    rooms    on    the    main    floor. 

The  Mansion,  designed  by  Henry  J.  Stier,  an  exiled 
architect  from  Antwerp,  is  distinctly  on  the  English  order  of 
the  period,  and  contains  forty  rooms.  According  to  tradi- 
tion the  marble  columns  of  the  N.  portico  were  originally 
cut  for  use  in  the  Capitol ;  but  having  by  a  blunder  been 
cut  too  short,  they  were  purchased  by  the  Calverts  to  replace 
the  original  sandstone  columns.  From  the  broad  entrance 
hall  one  enters  the  large  central  ball-room,  opening  upon  a 
spacious  veranda  at  the  rear ;  while  on  either  side  are  door- 
ways opening  respectively  into  the  drawing-room  on  W.  and 
the  dining-room  on  E.  The  latter  was  formerly  completely 
surrounded  by  an  elaborate  frieze  of  hunting  scenes,  but  the 
walls  were  later  papered  and  the  fresco  ruined.  Beyond 
the  dining-room  a  short  flight  of  steps  leads  down  to  the 
long,  high-ceilinged  breakfast  room;  while  the  corresponding 
space  at  the  W.  end  of  the  house  contains  the  library  with 
its  two  quaint  built-in  bookcases ;  and  beyond  it  the  Coach 
house  with  its  broad  doorway  still  intact.  Henry  Clay  and 
Daniel  Webster  were  often  entertained  here,  and  one  of  the 
upstairs  rooms  is  still  known  as  the  Henry  Clay  room.  South 
of  the  Mansion  may  still  be  seen  the  scanty  remainder  of 
what  was  once  a  spacious  lake,  formerly  supplied  from  the 
then  abundant  waters  of  the  Anacostia  River.  It  was  on  an 
island  in  the  centre  of  this  lake  that  Henry  Clay  is  said  to 
have  drafted  his  famous  Missouri  Compromise  Bill. 

From  Riversdale  the  visitor  may  make  a  pleasant  trip  northward 
through  Berwyn  to  Laurel  on  the  borderline  of  Prince  George's  Co., 
passing  the  Maryland  Agricultural  College  (cars  to  Laurel  run  at  one 
hour  interval.)  The  Maryland  Line  offers  the  quickest  return  route 
from  Bladensburg  to  Washington  (cars  run  every  fifteen  minutes). 
Tourists  who  do  not  mind  a  little  extra  walking  can  save  time  on  the 
whole  Bladen  sburg-Riversdale  trip  by  taking  the  Maryland  Line  (terminal 
at  G  and  15th  Sts.)  to  Hyattsville,  walking  east  to  Bladensburg  and 
Duelling  Grounds,  then  returning  and  continuing  by  trolley  to 
Riversdale. 

b.     The  Catholic  University  of  America 

*The  Catholic  University  of  America  (PI.  Ill— B5) 
occupies  a  144-acre  tract  in  the  northern  section  of  Brookland, 
situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Michigan  Ave.  and  bounded  on  the 
E.  by  Brookland  Ave.  and  on  the  W.  by  Harewood  Road,  which 
separates  it  from  the  grounds  of  the  Soldiers'  Home  (p.  432). 
Inclusive  of  a  number  of  affiliated  organizations,  it  already 
comprises    a    group    of   24    buildings. 


THE  CATHOLIC  UNIVERSITY  OF  AMERICA    417 


"» —'  •  ■■■■-■ — uu 

„ -»-- "-"■■V  —  ., 


n  Key  "to  Nt?mbebs 

I.  Caldwell  Hall 

!  2.  McMahon  Hall' 
3,  Albert  Hall      '-i     " ' 
i.  Engineering  Building 
•5.  Gibbons  Hall. 
6,  Practical    Mechanics 
Building 

8.  Observatory^-'    f 

9.  St.  Thomas  College 
10.'  Apostolic    Mission . 

:  .,  -  .House     •  ... 

II,  Marlst  College   • 

12.  Holy  Cross  College 

13.  College  of  the  Immac- 

ulate Conception 
W.  University, 'B.  &  O.  R. 

R.   Station 

.  18.  Maloney'  Chemical 

■  '  Laboratory 

20.  St.  Austin's  College 

21.  College   of;. -the     Holy 
Land 

..  22;  -Trinity  College. 
2?.  Dining  Hall   ' 
29.  College  of  St/Paui  the 
'  Apostle 


THE  CATHOLIC  UNIVERSITY 

''' •/'■•:  OF  AMERICA  . 

1916     ' 

;       5OU.E0F  F6ET 


'29 


418  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Reached  by  North  Capitol  St.  trolley  (marked  "B rook- 
lain  d")  from  terminal  near  Treasury  Building.  Also  by  Balti- 
more and  Ohio  R.  R.  to  station  in  S.  E.  oor.  of  University 
grounds. 

History.  While  the  first  expressed  desire  to  found  a  Catholic 
University  in  the  United  States  dates  back  to  1866,  it  was  not  until 
November,  18S4,  at  the  Third  Plenary  Council,  Baltimore,  that  it  was 
decided  to  establish  a  seminarium  principale  as  a  nucleus  for  the  pro- 
posed seat  of  learning.  An  executive  board  was  appointed,  composed 
of  Bishops  and  prominent  laymen,  through  whom  the  Middleton  estate 
in  Brookland  (69  acres)  was  acquired,  and  the  University  duly  incor- 
porated under  the  laws  of  the  District  of  Columbia.  In  March,  1889, 
the  constitution  of  the  University  was  approved,  and  the  power  to  grant 
degrees  was  conferred  by  Pope  Leo  XIII.  Chiefly  through  the  gift  of 
$300,000  by  Miss  Mary  Gwendolin  Caldwell  of  Newport,  R.  I.  (later 
the  Marquise  des  Monstiers  de  Merinville),  Caldwell  Hall  was  erected, 
in  which,  on  Nov.  18,  1889,  the  School  of  Sacred  Sciences  was  opened. 
In  1891,  the  Rev.  James  McMahon,  for  forty  years  a  pastor  in  New 
York  City,  transferred  to  the  University  his  entire  patrimony  which, 
through  the  great  rise  of  New  York  real  estate  values,  had  increased 
to  $400,000.  With  this  sum  McMahon  Hall  was  erected  and  here  in 
1895,  the  Schools  of  Philosophy  and  of  the  Social  Sciences  were  opened. 
Subsequently  the  latter  school  was  divided  into  the  Schools  of  Law 
and  of  Philosophy,  and  later  certain  departments  of  the  School  of 
Philosophy  were  developed  respectively  into  the  Schools  of  Science 
and  Letters 

An  important  factor  in  the  development  of  the  University 
has  been  ithe  affiliation  of  the  various  institutions  of  the  reli- 
gious orders  that  are  grouped  about  the  University.  These 
are,  with  dates  of  establishment:  St.  Thomas  College  (p.  422), 
1889;  Marist  College  (p.  422),  1891 ;  Holy  Cross  College 
(p.  422),  1895;  College  of  the  Holy  Land  (p.  429).  1897 ; 
St.  Austin's  College,  1901 ;  The  Apostolic  Mission  House 
(p.  421),  1902;  College  oif  the  Immaculate  Conception  (p.  421), 
1903;  Chaminade  Institute,  181 5.  Also  two  institutions  for 
the  higher  education  of  women  under  Catholic  auspices : 
Trinity  College,  1897;  The  Catholic  Sisters'  College  (p.  423), 
1914- 

Government.  By  the  Papal  constitution  the  government  of  the  Uni- 
versity is  vested  in  the  Bishop  of  the  United  States,  with  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Baltimore  as  perpetual  Chancellor.  This  authority  is  dele- 
gated to  a  Board  of  thirty  Trustees,  composed  of  Archbishops  and 
Bishops,  Priests  and  laymen.  The  ordinary  administration  of  the  Uni- 
versity is  exercised  in  the  name  of  the  Chancellor  by  a  Rector,  assisted 
by  an  Academic  Senate,  composed  of  the  Deans  of  faculties,  heads  of 
University  Colleges  and  two  elected  members   of  each   faculty. 

The  teaching  staff  has  grown  from  a  nucleus  of  four  professors,  all 
Europeans, — two  Germans,  a  Belgian  and  a  Frenchman.  Today  the 
staff  includes  75  teachers,  about  one-third  of  whom  are  priests.  With 
few  exceptions  they  are  Americans  by  birth,  notably  the  lay  professors. 
Practically  all  of  them  are  Catholics. 

The   average  visitor   will   leave   the   trolley   on  Michigan 
Ave.  at  a  point  just  beyond  the   College  of  the  Immaculate 


THE  CATHOLIC  UNIVERSITY  OF  AMERICA    419 

Conception  (p.  422)  on  the  S.,  and  will  enter  the  middle  gate  of 
the  University  grounds  between  the  two  dormitory  buildings, 
Albert  Hall  on  the  R.,  and  Gibbons  Hall  on  the  L.  Pro- 
ceeding as  nearly  N.  as  the  winding  path  permits,  he  will 
reach  the  most  northwestern  building  of  the  University, 
and  the  first  to  be  erected,  Caldwell  Hall.  This  building, 
constructed  through  private  generosity,  of  which  $200,000 
from  the  Caldwell  fund  formed  the  nucleus,  received  the 
original  staff  of  four  theological  professors  and  the  pioneer 
band  of  38  young  priest  students.  It  is  to-day  seriously  over- 
crowded, because  it  is  still  burdened  with  various  administra- 
tion offices,  and  with  the  class-room  work  of  several  faculties 
other  than  the  theological. 

The  main  entrance  on  the  W.  side  is  often  closed,  but  the  small  S. 
door  is  usually  open.  The  main  corridor,  running  N.  and  S.,  contains 
some  interesting  portraits:  Among  them:  i.  Francis  Drexel,  of  Phila- 
delphia, in  whose  honor  the  Chair  of  Moral  Theology  was  established; 
2.  Theodore  B.  Basselin  (1851-1914),  who  left  a  bequest  of  nearly 
$1,000,000  for  ^he  purpose  of  creating  Basselin  College,  an  institution 
to  train  young  men  for  the  priesthood,  specializing  in  Ecclesiastical 
Elocution;  3.  Eugene  Kelly,  (who  founded  the  Chair  of  Ecclesiastical 
History)  by  Daniel  Huntington;  4.  Joseph  Banigan,  of  Providence,  R.  I. 
(who  founded  the  Chair  of  Political  Economy),  by  H.  G.  Breul;  5.  Dr. 
Thomas  F.  Andrews,  of  Norfolk,  Va.  (in  whose  honor  his  daughters 
founded  the  Andrews  Chair  of  Biblical  Archaeology)  ;  6.  Rt.  Rev. 
T.  J.  Shahan,  Rector  of  the  University. 

Midway  on  W.  of  corridor  are  the  University  parlors.  In 
S.  parlor  are  several  paintings,  including  the  following:  1. 
Archbishop  Ryan,  presented  by  his  sister  Margaret  Ryan 
Bowen,>  by  Benedict  A.  Osnis  (b.  1872)  ;  2.  *The  last  Mo- 
ments of  Pope  Leo  XIII,  by  Cecile  de  Wentworth,  Rome, 
!903  (gift  of  John  D.  Crimmins).  The  figures  in  this  im- 
pressive picture  are  authentic  portraits  of  Cardinals  Ram- 
polla,  Serafino  Vannutelli,  Vives,  Oreola  Ferrata  and  Dr. 
I     Lapponi. 

East  Wall.     Pius  X,  by  A.   Ury. 

North  Wall.  Cardinal  Martinelli,  by  Thomas  Eakins. 
This  parlor  also  contains  many  costly  objects  of  art,  forming 
part  of  the  Basselin  bequest. 

North  Parlor.  On  N.  wall  are  two  spacious  panels  in 
mosaic  recording  the  long  list  of  endowments,  including 
twenty  professorships,  four  Fellowships,  thirty-seven  indi- 
vidual scholarships  and  fifty  full  scholarships  endowed  in 
perpetuity  by  the  Knights  of  Columbus. 

Opposite  the  parlors,  on  E.  side  of  main  corridor,  is  the 
*Ca1dwell  Hall  Chapel,  built  on  the  order  of  a   Roman  Ba- 
silica.    Note  at  entrance  a  marble  Madonna,  by  Meyer  Bros., 
1     of  Munich. 


420  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

The  Chapel  contains  19  altars,  at  which  the  Holy  Sacri- 
fice is  offered  daily  by  resident  priests.  The  beautiful 
stained-glass  windows  are  17  in  number;  the  12  on  the  N. 
and  S.  sides  of  the  nave  contain  representations  of  Saints  of 
the  church,  and  under  each,  in  Latin,  is  an  invocation  for  a 
bestowal  of  the  special  Christian  virtue  attributed  to  the  Saint : 
i.  e.  first  window  on  S.,  "Sancte  Vincenti  a  Paulo,  impetra 
nobis  Co-fit  at  em  erga  Pauperes"  ("Holy  St.  Vincent  de 
Paul,  bestow  upon  us  Charity  toward  the  Poor").  These 
windows  and  the  virtues  respectively  represented  are  as 
follows : 

North  side,  W.  to  E. :  1.  St.  Francis  Xavier:  Zeal  for  the  Salva- 
tion of  Souls;  2.  St.  Thomas  Aquinas:  The  Gift  of  Knowledge;  3.  St. 
Leo  the  Great:  Reverence  for  the  Apostolic  See;  4.  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist: The  Spirit  of  Fortitude;  5.  St  Peter:  Steadfast  Faith;  6.  Mary 
the  Immaculate:    Chastity. 

South  side,  W.  to  E. :  7.  St.  Vincent  de  Paul:  Charity  toward  the 
Poor;  8.  St.  Francis  de  Sales:  The  Gift  of  Piety;  9.  St.  Augustine:  Gift 
of  Intellect;  10.  St.  John  the  Evangelist:  The  Gift  of  Oratory;  n.  St. 
Paul:     Consuming  Love;    12.   St.  Joseph:     Humanity. 

The  five  windows  in  the  apse  depict  leading  scenes  in  the  Gospel 
Story.  1.  Central  or  East  Window:  The  Coronation  of  the  Virgin; 
(on  L.)  2.  The  Sermon  on  the  Mount;  3.  The  Raising  from  the  Dead; 
(on  R.)   4.  The  Giving  of   the  Keys  to  Peter;     5.  The  Ascension. 

The  main  stairway  ascends  to  R.  and  L.  of  chapel 
entrance,  but  visitors  are  not  allowed  on  the  upper  floors. 
The  N.  E.  wing  is  devoted  to  the  Law  School  Moot  Court, 
having  all  the  accessories   of   a  modern  court  room. 

McMahon  Hall  is  situated  immediately  S.  E.  of  Caldwell 
Hall.  It  was,  as  above  stated,  the  gift  of  the  Rt.  Rev.  Mon- 
signor  James  McMahon,  and  was  inaugurated  October  1st, 
1895.  It  is  designed  on  the  Romanesque  order  of  architecture, 
and  consists  of  a  basement  of  Port  Deposit  granite,  and  a 
three-story  superstructure  of  Potomac  blue-stone,  with  trim 
of  Woodstock  granite.  Dimensions :  250  ft.  in  length  by  105 
ft.  in  depth  at  centre.     Total  cost  $350,000. 

Through  the  main  S.  doorway  the  visitor  enters  the 
spacious  central  lobby,  occupying  the  whole  width  of  the 
lower  floor.  On  N.  side  between  windows,  stands  a  finely 
wrought  marble  statue,  heroic  size,  of  *Pope  Leo  XIII,  by 
Giuseppe  Luchetti,  dated  Rome,  1890.  On  E.  bronze  bust  of 
John  Boyle  O'Reilly,  by  Samuel  K'itson;  on  W.,  marble  bust 
of  Archbishop  Williams,  of  Boston,  also  by  Kits  on. 

The  General  Library  of  the  University,  including  stacks 
and  reading  room,  is  located  in  the  N.  wing,  ground  floor. 
The  reading  room  in  N.  W.  cor.,  contains  a  marble  bust  of 
St.  Thomas   Aquinas,   presented  by  the   English,    Scotch   and 


THE  CATHOLIC  UNIVERSITY  OF  AMERICA    421 

Irish  residents  of  Rome.  Guglielmi,  sculptor.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  the  pedestal  is  by  a  renowned  Roman  Latinist,  Father 
Antunius  Angelini. 

The  general  library  is  open  to  the  public  for  reference,  9  A.  M.  to 
5  P.  M.  daily  except  Sundays;  the  circulating  library  is  for  professors 
nml  student:-  only.  The  resources  are  approximately  100,000  volumes 
and  pamphlets.  Special  features'  of  the  collection1  include:  "The  Stade 
Library,"  donated  by  the  late  E.  Francis  Riggs,  Esq.,  valuable  for 
Bi.blkfcil  study;  "The  Bo'uquillon  Library,''  mainly  sociological  and 
moral;  the  "Michael  Jenkins  Collection  of  Marylandiana";  the  '"Alfred 
Rose  collection  on  Monumental  Brasses";  and  "The  Shakespeare  Col- 
lection," bequest  of  the  late  Rev.  D.  J.  Stafford,  D.  D. 

The  Assembly  Room,  on  the  second  floor,  facing  stairs, 
contains  a  number  of  portraits,  including  an  unsigned  George 
Washington  and,  above  the  rostrum,  *POpe  Leo  XIII,  by 
G.  Ugoliri,  presented  by  His  Holiness  March  19th,  1889. 

The  General  Museum,  situated  on  J:he  third  floor  is  open  weekdays 
to  the  public.  It  includes  at  present  the  following  collections. 
The  Wilcox  Collection  of  fossils  and  minerals,  presented  in  1889-90; 
The  Oriental  Collection  of  manuscripts,  tablets  and  coins,  donated  in 
1889  by  Professor  Hyvernat,,  Andrews  Professor  of  Biblical  Archae- 
ology; The  Lindesmith  Collection  of  Indian  War  relics,  presented  in 
1893  by  Rev.  E.  W.  J.  Lindesmith,  Chaplain  U.  S.  A.;  The  Jannet 
Collection  of  coins  and  medals,  about  1700  in  number,  donated  by  M. 
Claudio  Jannet,  of  Paris. 

The  building  in  the  extreme  S.E.  cor.  of  the  University 
grounds  is  the  new  Martin  Maloncy  Chemical  Laboratory  (1914- 
17),  erected  from  designs  by  Murphy  &  Olmsted,  at  a  cost  of 
approximately  $200,000.  Like  the  recently  erected  Graduates'  Hall 
and  Gibbons  Memorial  Hall  it  is  in  the  Tudor  Gothic  style  of 
architecture,  the  exterior  walls  being  of  Port  Deposit  granite 
with  Indiana  limestone  trimmings.  The;  building  has  a 
frontage  of  270  ft,  and  consists  of  a  four-story  central  pavil- 
ion and  two  wings  of  three  stories  e"ach,  containing  alto- 
gether a  floor  space  of  40,000  sq.  ft. 

In  addition  to  the  laboratories  for  Metallurgy  and  Assaying,  Indus- 
trial Chemistry,  Electro-chemistry,  Organic-chemistry,  Quantitative  Anal- 
ysis, etc.,  this  building  contains  the  Chemical  Museum  and  the  Chemi- 
cal Library.  The  former,  occupying  the  first  floor  of  the  pavilion,  con- 
tains collections  illustrating  both  inorganic  and  organic  chemistry.  Its 
special  feature  is  its  large  collection  of  samples  of  crude  and  refined 
products  of  chemical  industry  received  from  manufacturing  chemists  in 
all  parts  of   the  United   States  and   Europe. 

The  Chemical  Library  has  specialized  on  Historical  chemistry,  and 
possesses  many  original  papers  of  eighteenth-century  chemists.  It  also 
has  a  collection  of  4000  dissertations  and  monographs,  and  is  especially 
rich   in   the  periodical  literature   of  chemistry. 

West  of  the  Laboratory,  and  near  the  unfinished  Uni- 
versity Dining-iHall,  is  the  Apostolic  Mission  House,  an 
affiliated  institution  established  as  a  Normal  School  for 
preachers.     It  offers  to  members  of   religious  Orders   facili- 


422  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

ties    for    specializing    .their    knowledge    of    public    speaking 
for  missionary  purposes. 

Occupying  a  rectangle  that  cuts  into  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  the 
University  grounds,  are  two  other  affiliated  institutions, 
the  Marist  College  (on  E.)  and  Holy  Cross  College  (on  W.). 
The  former  was  incorporated  by  priests  of  the  Society  of 
Mary  who,  in  1891,  purchased  the  property  in  Brookland, 
known  as  Brook's  Mansion.  In  1897  they  secured  their  pres- 
ent ten-acre  tract,  on  which  they  erected  their  own  building. 
The  college  has  for  its  object  the  training  of  the  Marist 
Scholastics  in  philosophical  and  theological  sciences.  Holy 
Cross  College  was  established  at  Brookland  in  1895,  and 
soon  afterward  acquired  its  present  twelve  acres  of  land  on 
which  to  erect  its  own  building.  Its  purpose  is  to  provide 
an  ecclesiastical  Hotfse  of  Studies  for  the  Congregation  of 
the  Holy  Gross  in  the  United  States. 

The  College  building,  constructed  of  Indiana  limestone  and  Ver- 
mont granite,  was  completed  in  1899.  The  style  is  almost  purely 
classical,  and  embodies  features  of  the  Palazzo  Farnese  at  Rome,  and 
the  Lichtenstein  Palace  at  Vienna.     A.   von  Herbulis,   architect. 

Northwest  of  Holy  Cross  College,  on  Pleasant  Hill,  stands 
Marist  Seminary,  founded  in  1900  as  an  apostolic  school  for 
the  purpose  of  giving  preparatory  training  to  young  men 
wishing  to  become  priests  and  members  of  the  Society  of 
Mary.  Their  present  tract  of  seven  acres  was  secured  in 
1902  and  a  building  was  erected  which  is  large  enough  to 
accommodate  sixty  pupils. 

On  the  S.  side  of  Michigan  Ave.,  directly  facing  Gibbons 

Hall,  is  the  College  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  the  House 

>of  Studies  for  the  Dominicans  of  the  Province  of  St  Joseph 

(which  includes  all  oi  the  United  States  easft  of  the  Rocky 

Mountains). 

St.  Joseph's  Province  was  established  in  1805,  and  for  a  century 
the  members  of  the  Order  were  educated  at  St.  Rose's  convent,  near 
Springfield,  Ky.  (founded  1806),  and  at  St.  Joseph's  convent,  near 
Somerset,  Ohio  (founded  181 8).  In  1906  the  professors  and  students 
of  the  latter  convent  were  transferred  to  their  present  home  in  Brook- 
land. The  college  ranks  as  a  Studium  Formale,  i.  e.,  it  has  the  right 
to   confer   degrees   in  theology. 

Some  distance  back  from  the  avenue,  and  behind  the 
Immaculate  Conception  College,  is  the  College  of  St.  Paul 
the  Apostle,  established  under  the  auspices  of  the  Paulist 
Fathers,  as  the  (Novitiate  and  Scholasticate  of  their  Con- 
gregation, and  does  not  receive  students  for  general  in- 
struction. It  was  established  in  1889,  and  was  the  first  insti- 
tution affiliated  with  the  University.  Under  the  title  of  "St. 
Thomas'    College"    it    occupied   the    old    Middleton    Mansion 


THE  FRANCISCAN  MONASTERY  423 

within   the    University   grounds,    until,    in    1914,    it   was   trans- 
ferred to  its  new  building  erected  on  a  twenj:y-£ve-acre  tract. 

At  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  the  University  grounds,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  is  the  re- 
cently established  Catholic  Sisters'  College.  This  is  an 
independent  corporation,  separate  and  distinct  from  the  Uni- 
versity; but  graduate  students  of  the  college,  upon  passing 
required  examinations,  may  receive  University  degrees.  The 
chief  purpose  of  the  college  is  to  afford  higher  education  for 
Catholic  Teaching  Sisters. 

A  short  distance  E.  of  the  University,  on  Michigan  Ave., 
stands  St.  Austin's  College,  founded  in  1901  by  the  Society 
of  St.  Sulpice  to  prepare  its  members  to  become  professors 
in  .the  Society's  various  seminaries  and  colleges. 

c.     The  Franciscan  Monastery 

The  Franciscan  Monastery  of  Mt.  St.  Sepulchre  is  sit- 
uated about  half  a  mile  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  Catholic  University 
(take  Brookland  trolley  to  Quincy  St.,  and  then  walk  two 
blocks  E.).  The  Monastery  is  open  to  visitors  from  8  A.  M. 
to  5  P.  M.,  and  for  all  services.  Entrance  on  S.  side.  A 
Brother  will  show  visitors  to  the  chapels  and  grottoes.  No 
admission  fee  is  charged,  but  offerings  for  the  church  will  be 
accepted. 

History.  The  order  of  Friars  Minor,  founded  by  St.  Francis  of 
Assisi  in  1209,  has  always  been  closely  associated  with  the  Holy  Land. 
St.  Francis  himself  visited  Palestine  in  1219,  leaving  behind  him  some 
of  his  disciples,  who  became  the  successors  of  the  Crusaders,  and  there 
established  a  province  which  is  still  called  the  "Custody  of  the  Holy 
Land."  By  a  Bull  of  Clement  VI  (1342)  the  guardianship  of  the 
Holy  Places  at  Jerusalem  was  committed  to  this  Order,  and  they  still 
retain  it.  This  Custody  of  the  H'oly  Land  is  represented  abroad  by 
44  commissariats,  located  as  follows:  24  in  Europe,  13  in  South  and 
Central  America,  1  each  in  Australia,  Cuba,  Canada  and  the  Philippines, 
and  3  in  the  United  States,  namely:  in  Santa  Barbara,  Calif.;  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  and  lastly  the  Commissariat  General  in  Washington,  D.  C.  The 
last  was  formerly  established  in  New  York,  until  it  was  removed  to 
Washington  in  1889.  The  chief  purposes  of  these  commissariats  is  to 
promote  interest  in  the  holy  places  in  Palestine,  and  to  collect  alms  for 
their  preservation  and  care,  and  for  the  training  of  missionaries  for  the 
Holy  Land  Missions,  which  include — besides  Palestine — Armenia  and 
Lower  Egypt. 

The  site  of  Mt.  St.  Sepulchre  was,  throughout  the  first  half  of 
the  19th  century,  the  home  of  the  McCeeney  family,  which  in  later 
years  had  fallen  into  a  desolate  condition.  In  1897  a  Franciscan  Friar 
recognized  the  rich  possibilities  of  this  site;  the  Holy  See  sanctioned 
the  transfer  of  the  commissariat;  on  March  19th,  1898  (the  Feast  of 
St.  Joseph)  the  corner-stone  was  laid;  and  on  Sept.  17th,  1899  (the 
Feast  of  the  Stigmata  of  St.  Francis)  the  church  and  monastery  were 
dedicated. 


424  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

The  visitor  approaching  the  monastery  is  immediately 
struck  with  its  unmistakable  Byzantine  atmosphere,  a  simpli- 
fied adaptation  of  the  characteristics  of  Hagia  Sophia  at  Con- 
stantinople, modified  by  certain  purely  Italian  tendencies.  In 
point  of  fact  the  church  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  five-fold 
cross ;  the  large  cross  forming  the  main  body  of  the  church, 
while  the  small  crosses  are  utilized  as  chapels.  The  architect 
of  the  monastery,  inclusive  of  the  church,  was  Aristides 
Leonori,  of  Rome,  and  the  building  of  it  was  superintended 
by  his  brother,  Pio  Leonori. 

The  five-fold  cross  was  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  Latin  Kingdom  of 
Jerusalem,  adopted  by  Godfrey  de  Bouillon.  This  five-fold  emblem, 
symbolic  of  the  Five  Wounds  of  the  Saviour,  is  reproduced  on  the 
gable  of  the  church,  in  the  Venetian  mosaic  pavement,  and  elsewhere 
again  and  again,   emphasizing  the   scope  and  the  plan  of  the  institution. 

Before  the  main  entrance  to  the  church  is  a  statue  of  St. 
Francis  in  bronze,  fondling  a  bird,  one  of  his  "little  brothers 
and  sisters."  (Modeled  by  Rosignoli,  and  cast  in  Florence  by 
G.  Vignali.) 

From  the  office  the  visitor  proceeds  at  once,  through 
door  on  L.,  into  the  Sacristy.  Among  the  paintings  on  the 
walls  of  the  office  and  Sacristy,  the  two  likely  to  attract  the 
visitor's  attention  are  a  copy  by  Augustine  Flenker  of  Hoff- 
man's Virgin  of  the  Apocalypse,  and  a  copy  of  a  Botticelli 
Madonna  by  a  Japanese  artist,  who  has  imbued  it  with  a 
curiously   Oriental   atmosphere. 

Passing  through  the  N.  W.  door,  we  enter  the  Chapel 
of  St.  Joseph,  in  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  the  church.  On  the  altar 
is  a  statue  of  the  Saint  holding  the  Child  Jesus.  On  either 
side  are  bas-reliefs  representing  ((L.)  the  Espousal  of  the 
Blessed  Virgin  and  Joseph;  (R.)  the  Flight  of  the  Holy 
Family  into  Egypt.  Sculptor,  John  Earley,  of  Washington. 
On  the  E.  wall  is  a  large  painting,  The  Death  of  St.  Joseph, 
by  Augustine  Flenker. 

Passing  through  archway  on  N.  (opposite  altar)  we  find 
ourselves  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  central  aisle,  which  with 
the  transepts  forms  the  large  cross  of  the  church.  At  the 
western  end  of  this  aisle,  constituting  the  main  entrance  to 
the  church,  is  a  portico  which  supports  the  Altar  of  Calvary. 
At  the  opposite  end,  where  we  now  stand,  is  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulchre. At  the  extremities  of  the  N.  and  S.  transepts  are 
stately  apses  admitting  abundant  light  through  a  series  of 
stained-glass  windows,  portraying,  with  few  exceptions,  Saints 
of  the  three  Orders  of  St.  Francis.  The  prevailing  tones  of 
the  wall  decorations  are  cream  and  tan,  harmonizing  restfully. 


THE   FRANCISCAN   MONASTERY  425 

In  the  middle  of  the  eastern  aisle,  opposite  the  entrance 
to  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  is  the  Stone  of  Unction,  being  a  copy 
of  the  Shrine  in  Jerusalem  which  protects  the  rock  upon 
which  the  body  of  Christ  was  anointed  for  burial.  Like  the 
original,  it  consists  of  a  slab  of  reddish  stone,  encased  in 
black  and  white  marble.  At  the  four  corners  are  lofty  bronze 
candelabra,  designed  by  Bensiger  Brothers,  of  New  York. 
All  the  stone  work  was  brought   from  Palestine. 

The  Holy  Sepulchre,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  main  aisle,  is 
a  reproduction  of  the  Shrine  built  around  the  Tomb  of  Christ 
as  it  appears  to-day  in  Jerusalem.  According  to  tradition, 
this  is  the  tomb  which  Joseph  of  Arimathea  had  caused  to  be 
hewn  from  the  solid  rock,  in  which  a  bench  was  left  for  the 
reception  of  the  body.  The  tomb  had  the  customary  ante- 
chamber for  mourners — now  called  the  Chapel  of  the  Angel, 
because  it  was  there  that  the  angel  proclaimed  to  the  women 
the  Resurrection  of  Christ. 

Entering  the  vestibule,  we  find  a  pedestal  similar  to  the 
one  in  Jerusalem,  said  to  contain  a  fragment  of  the  stone  on 
which  the  angel  was  seated  on  the  first  Easter  morn.  Passing 
through  the  lower  doorway  beyond,  we  enter  an  exact  replica 
of  the  inner  tomb. 

Above  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  reached  by  two  flights 
of  stairs  (closed  to  the  public  except  for  Holy  Communion), 
is  the  Altar  of  Thabor,  commemorating  the  scene  of  the 
Transfiguration.  Above  the  altar  is  a  large  relief  panel, 
modeled  from  a  picture  by  Dore,  and  showing  Christ  with 
Moses  and  Elias  on  either  side. 

An  interesting  fact,  which  the  guide  will  probably  not  mention, 
is  that  the  figures  in  this  bas-relief  are  movable.  The  substitute  figure?, 
converting  tht  Transfiguration  into  tht  Resurrection,  are  to  be  seen  from 
Easter  to  Trinity  Sunday. 

The  Center  Altar,  at  the  crossing  of  the  main  aisle  and 
transepts,  is  dedicated  to  the  Mystery  of  the  Most  Holy 
Trinity.  The  large  canopy  covering  the  altar  is  reminiscent 
of  the  Papal  Altar  in  St.  Peter's,  Rome. 

In  the  N.  E.  cor.  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi, 
the  founder  of  the  Franciscan  Order.  Above  the  altar  is  a 
sculpture  representing  St.  Francis  in  the  embrace  of  the  Cru- 
cified Saviour  (after  a  painting  by  Micrillo).  On  each  side 
are  bas-relief  panels  :  (R.)  St.  Francis  blessing  St.  Louis,  King 
of  France,  and  St.  Elizabeth,  Queen  of  Hungary;  (L.)  St. 
Francis  receiving  the  Stigmata  of  the  Five  Wounds. 

Behind  the  altar  of  St.  Francis,  entered  through  the  east 
door,  is  the  Chapel  of  Penance,  set  apart  for  hearing  con- 
fessions. 


426  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Returning  through  St.  Francis'  Chapel  to  the  north  tran- 
sept, we  approach  the  Altar  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  This  altar 
occupies  an  elevated  position  in  the  northern  apse,  above  the 
stairs  leading  to  the  Grotto  of  Bethelehem. 

We  reach  next   (northwest  cor.)   the  Lady  Chapel. 

In  all  the  Franciscan  churches  the  Virgin  Mary  is  venerated  under 
the  title  of  her  Immaqulate  Conception.  St.  Francis  placed  his  whole 
Order  under  her  protection,  and  tradition  says  that  he  established  the 
custom  in  the  Franciscan  Order  of  saying  a  special  Mass  every  Saturday 
in  her  honor. 

The  two  relief  panels  on  the  altar  are:  I.  (L.)  The  Pre- 
sentation of  the  Child  Mary  at  the  Temple;  2.  (R.)  Her 
Coronation  in  Heaven. 

The  S.  archway  brings  us  to  the  western  main  aisle,  lead- 
ing to  the  front  entrance  of  the  church,  and  containing  a 
double  stairway  leading  up  to  the  Altar  of  Calvary.  This 
is  an  exact  replica  of  the  altar  erected  over  the  spot  where 
the  Cross  was  set  on  Mt.  Calvary.  The  visitor  ascends  the 
right-hand  stairs. 

The  platform,  upon  which  the  Altar  of  Calvary  is  erected,  corre- 
sponds in  height  with  the  elevation  of  the  Jerusalem  Altar  above  the 
level  of  the  Basilica.  Behind  the  altar  is  a  group  comprising  the  Criici- 
fied  Christ,  the  Virgin  Mary  and  St.  John  (memorial  gift  of  the  Lenne 
family  of  Cologne). 

Beneath  the  altar  is  a  small  disc  indicating  the  location  of  the 
Cross.  To  the  R.  is  a  strip  of  wood  indicating  the  rent  in  the  rock 
caused  by  the  earthquake   at  the   moment  of   Christ's  death. 

Descending  the  L.  stairway,  the  visitor  proceeds  to  the 
two  small  Oratories  underneath  the  two  stairways.  The  one 
on  the  N.  is  the  Coronation  Chapel.  It  contains  a  *Represen- 
tation  in  carved  wood  of  Christ  wearing  the  Crown  of  Thorns. 
On  the  S.  is  the  Flagellation  Chapel,  containing  a  *Statue  of 
Christ  after  His  scourging.  Both  of  these  statues  were  exe- 
cuted by  Tyrolese  wood-carvers. 

Continuing  southward,  we  reach  (southwest  cross)  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Anthony  of  Padua.  Over  the  altar  is  a  statue 
of  St.  Anthony  embracing  the  Infant  Jesus.  On  each  side 
are  bas-reliefs  representing:  i.  (L.)  St.  Anthony  the  Wonder- 
worker, healing  the  Sick;  2.  (R.)  St.  Anthony  giving  bread 
to  the  Poor ;  John  Earley,  sculptor.  Continuing  through 
eastern  arch,  we  reach  the  south  Transept,  terminating  in 
an  apse,  containing  the  Altar  of  the  Sacred  Heart.  Beneath 
this  altar  is  the  *Entrance  to  the  Grottoes. 

While  making  the  tour  of  the  chapels,  the  visitor  should  not  fail 
to  notice  the  richly  colored  windows  made  by  Meyers,  of  Munich,  most 
of  which  portray  Saints  of  the  three  Franciscan  Orders.  These  win- 
dows, from  R.  to  L.,  are  as  follows: 


THE   FRANCISCAN   MONASTERY  427 

1.  (Altar  of  Thabor) :  God  the  Father,  and  Holy  Ghost.  2.  (Altar 
of  the  Holy  Ghost):  St.  Rose  of  Viterbo,  III  Order;  St.  Agnes  of 
Assisi,  II  Order;  St.  Elizabeth,  Queen,  III  Order;  St.  B'onaventure, 
Cardinal,  O.  F.  M.;  St.  Louis,  Bishop  of  Toulouse,  O.  F.  M.;  St.  Ivo, 
Priest,  III  Order.  3.  (Chapel  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  N.  side)  :  St. 
Isabella.  Queen,  III  Order;  St.  Joachim;  St.  Anne;  St.  Ferdinand, 
King.  Ill  Order.  4.  (Same,  W.  side):  St.  Peter  Alcantara,  O.  F.  M.; 
Bl.  John  Duns  Seotus,  O.  F.  M.;  St.  Peter  Baptist,  O.  F.  M.;  St. 
Hyacintha,  III  Orler.  5.  (Altar  of  Calvary)  :  In  centre,  St.  Francis 
of  Assisi;  on  L.,  St.  Louis,  Crusader;  on  R.,  ;St.  Helen,  Empress.  6. 
(Chapel  of  St.  Anthony,  W.  side):  St.  Mary  Frances,  III  Order;  St. 
Leonard,  O.  F.  M.;  St.  Godfrey,  O.  F.  M. ;  St.  Francis  Solanus, 
O.  F.  M.  7.  (Same,  S.  side):  St.  Coletta,  II  Order;  St.  Delphina,  III 
Order;  St.  Elzear,  III  Order;  St.  Rich,  III  Order.  8.  (Altar  of  the 
Sacred  Heart):  St.  Veronica  Juliani,  II  Order;  St.  Margaret  Mary; 
St.  Clara,  II  Order;  St.  Paschal,  O.  F.  M.;  St.  John  Capistran,  O.  F.  M. ; 
St.   Bernardine,   O.   F.    M. 

In  the  choir  lofts  are  the  following  additional  windows:  Over 
Chapel  of  St.  Joseph  (N.  side),  L.  to  R.:  1.  St.  Barbara;  2.  St.  Joseph; 
3.  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  O.  P.;  St.  Cecilia  Patroness  of  Musicians. 
Over  Chapel  of  St.  Francis  (S.  side),  L.  to  R.:  5.  Bl.  Nicholas  of 
Tavilei,  Martyr,  O.  F.  M.;  6.  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  Cardinal,  III  Order; 
7.  St.  Bede  the  Venerable,  O.  S.  B.;  8.  St.  Didacus,  O.  F.  M. 

The  stairway  leading  down  to  the  Grotto  of  Nazareth 
brings  us  to  a  reproduction  of  the  home  in  which  Jesus 
is  supposed  to  have  dwelt  up  to  the  time  of  His  public  min- 
istry. This  house,  according  to  tradition,  consisted  of  a 
single  room  built  against  a  natural  cave,  which  served  as  an 
inner  apartment.  It  was  in  the  original  of  this  grotto  that 
the  Angel  of  the  Annunciation  is  supposed  to  have  appeared 
1o  Mary.  The  stairs  lead  us  to  the  outer  chamber,  known 
as  the  Chapel  of  the  Angel.  It  contains  two  altars  dedicated, 
respectively,  (R.)  to  St.  Joseph;  (L.)  to  St.  Anne.  Beyond, 
in  the  grotto,  is  the  Altar  of  the  Annunciation.  The  altar- 
piece  is  a  copy  of  Luca  Delia  Robbia's  famous  work,  "The 
Annunciation." 

From  the  Chapel  of  the  Angel  an  entrance,  facing  the 
altar  of  St.  Anne,  admits  us  into  a  narrow,  winding  passage, 
reproducing  a  portion  of  the  Catacombs  of  Rome — narrow 
subterranean  galleries  with  tiers  of  niches  in  the  wall  to 
receive  the  dead.  In  the  semi-darkness  the  visitor  receives  an 
impression  of  wandering  endlessly.  In  point  of  fact,  the 
whole  passage  extends  only  in  an  irregular  semicircle  from 
the  S.  to  the  N.  apse  of  the  church.  At  the  midway  point, 
directly  below  the  main  altar,  we  reach  the  Martyr's  Crypt, 
modeled  after  the  many  subterranean  chapels  still  to  be  seen 
at  Rome.  It  contains  the  remains  of  St.  Benignus  (a  Roman 
martyr,  formerly  buried  in  the  Catacombs),  which  are  now 
enclosed  in  the  wax  effigy  here  displayed.  In  the  niche  is  a 
semi-circular  mural  picture  of  the  Saviour,  the  painted  margins 
of    which    are   adorned    bv  a    series    of    12    religious    svmbols, 


428  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

beginning  with  the  Phoenix,  emblem  of  the  Resurrection  and 
ending  with  the  Lamb,  symbol  of  Christ,  standing  on  a  rock 
from  which  flow  four  fountains,  symbolic  of  the  four  Gospels. 

Facing  this  crypt  is  a  short  passage  leading  east  to  the 
Purgatory  Chapel.  On  all  sides  are  symbols  of  death : 
Black  draperies,  funeral  candelabra,  and  skulls  on  the  capitals 
of  the  pilasters.  On  the  N.  wall  is  a  painting  showing  the 
lifeless  body  of  Christ,  "The  First  Begotten  of  the  Dead" 
(Rev.  i,  5).  Opposite,  on  the  S.  wall,  is  a  vision  of  the 
prophet  Ezekiel,  to  whom  the  Lord  showed  a  valley  full 
of  bones,  saying :  "Prophesy  concerning  these  dry  bones,  and 
say  to  them  :  'Ye  dry  bones,  hear  ye  the  word  of  the  Lord'  " 
(Ezck.  2>7,  i)-  The  pictures  behind  the  altar  represent  (L.) 
Death  Appearing  from  behind  a  Curtain;  (R.)  The  Angel  of 
God  revealing  Eternal  Life.  On  opposite  sides  of  the  en- 
trance are  panels  showing:  1.  Tobias  burying  the  Dead;  2. 
Christ  Raising  Lazarus. 

A  doorway  behind  the  Altar  leads  to  an  extension  of  the 
Catacombs.  Note  in  first  room  paintings  on  stairways  repre- 
senting Martyrs  consigned  to  beasts  in  the  Arena.  Beyond 
are  two  typical  chapels  of  the  larger  class  called  Cubicula, 
wiith  decorations  copied  from  existing  frescoes  found  in  the 
true  Catacombs.  The  Chapel  on  L.  is  dedicated  to  St.  Cecilia, 
and  contains  a  copy  of  the  well  known  statue  by  Madcrno. 
On  R.  is  Chapel  of  St.  Sebastian,  containing  copy  of  statue 
by  Bernini,  in  Church  of  St.  Sebastian  on  Appian  Way,  Rome. 

Returning  to  the  Martyr's  Crypt,  and  continuing  through  a 
ipassage  to  the  R.,  through  the  passage  of  the  Catacombs,  we 
reach  the  Grotto  of  Bethlehem,  a  faithful  copy  of  the  grotto 
as  it  exists  to-day  in  Bethlehem.  The  two  stairways  leading 
upward  from  the  crypt  are  copies  of  the  Latin  and  Greek 
stairways  in  the  Church  of  the  Nativity  in  Bethlehem,  fn  the 
niche,  between  these  stairways,  is  a  reproduction  of  the  Altar 
of  the  Nativity.  To  the  R.  is  the  Place  of  the  Manger,  a 
recess  in  the  rock  containing  the  Altar  of  the  Wise  Men, 
above  which  is  a  painting,  'The  Adoration  of  the  Magi." 

Having  completed  the  tour  of  the  Catacombs,  the  visitor 
here  ascends  the  stairs  which  emit  him  beneath  the  Holy  Ghost 
Altar  in  the  N.  Apse. 

The  Monastery  of  Mount  St.  Sepulchre,  immediately 
E.  of  the  church  and  separated  from  it  by  a  long  corridor 
(into  which  visitors  are  admitted),  consists  of  a  large  rec- 
tangular structure  three  stories  in  height,  with  an  inner 
court-yard  laid  out  as  a  garden,  in  the  centre  of  which  is 
an  ample  cistern  for  the  storage  of  rain-water  collected  from 


THE   FRANCISCAN   MONASTERY  429 

the  roof.  This  court-yard  is  surrounded  on  the  first  floor  by 
the  traditional  Cloister  ambulatory,  below  which,  in  the  base- 
ment story,  is-  a  similar  corridor  with  this  difference  that  it  is 
enclosed  and  lighted  by  windows.  Women  are  never  admitted 
to  the  Monastery  proper.  Male  visitors,  properly  introduced, 
will  sometimes  be  allowed  the  privilege  of  visiting  the  cloister. 

In  the  spacious  grounds  surrounding  the  Monastery  are 
several  points  of  interest.  In  the  Gethsemene  Valley  to  the 
S.  of  the  Monastery  and  reached  by  a  stairway,  are  a  number 
of  shrines.  They  include :  1.  The  Grotto  of  Agony,  a  faithful 
copy  of  the  Grotto  in  the  Garden  of  Gethsemene;  2.  The 
Tomb  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  also  copied  from  the  shrine  in 
the  Garden  of  Gethsemene;  3.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Anne;  4.  The 
Home  of  the  Holy  Family  in  Egypt,  a  reproduction  of  the 
shrine  which  marks  the  traditional  spot  of  the  sojourn  of  the 
Holy  Family  during  Herod's  persecution;  5.  The  Grotto  of 
Lourdes,  an  accurate  facsimile  of  the  world-famous  shrine 
at  Lourdes,  in  the  south  of  France.  The  Brookland  Grotto 
was  dedicated  August  15th,  1913,  on  which  occasion  the  Right 
Rev.  Charles  W.  Courrier,  Bishop  of  Matanzas,  Cuba, 
officiated. 

To  the  northeast  of  the  Monastery,  in  a  lonely  grove 
surrounded  by  pine  and  cedar  trees,  is  a  little  chapel  modeled 
after  the  retreat  on  Mount  Alverna,  Umbria,  where  St.  Francis 
dwelt  in  solitude.  This  chapel,  intended  for  the  use  of  the 
Friars  only,  contains  a  statue  of  the  saint  wrapt  in  meditation, 
and  surrounded  by  his  "little  brothers  and  sisters,  the  birds." 

The  Cemetery  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  facing  the  east, 
and  it  dotted  over  with  cedars,  willows  and  white  rose  bushes. 
Since  its  establishment,  eighteen  years  ago  (1904),  eighteen  of 
the  Friars  have  here  been  laid  to  rest.  Both  these  are  within 
the  cloistered  grounds. 

The  Monastery  also  houses  the  College  of  the  Holy  Land, 
the  purpose  of  which  is  the  education  of  young  men  as  mis- 
sionaries to  the  Holy  Land,  and  the  special  preparation  of 
lectors  and  professors  for  the  members  of  the  Order  of  the 
different  provinces  in  the  United  States.  The  undertaking 
was  sanctioned  by  the  Holy  See,  November  23d,  18917.  The 
students  pursue  courses  in  the  various  departments  of  the 
Catholic  University   (p.  416). 


430  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

II.     Georgia  Avenue  to  Takoma  Park 

Georgia  Avenue  begins  at  Florida  Avenue  as  a  northern 
continuation  of  7th  St.,  but  verges  slightly  westward  until 
from  Brightwood  onward  it  lies  closely  parallel  to  13th  St. 
It  is  one  of  the  main  suburban  highways  affording  the  shortest 
route  to  the  Soldiers'  Home,  Rock  Creek  Cemetery  and 
Walter  Reed  Hospital,  and  continuing  as  one  of  the  principal 
automobile    roads   through    Montgomery    Co.,    Md. 

On  E.  side  of  Georgia  Ave.,  extending  from  U  St.  to 
W  St.,  is  the  American  League  Baseball  Park.  Two  blocks 
N.  Howard  PI.  leads  east  (one  block)  to  Howard  University. 

Howard  University  (PI.  Ill — C4),  situated  directly  E. 
of  Garfield  Hospital,  occupies  a  site  of  twenty  acres,  lying 
between  6th  St.  on  the  W.,  and  the  New  Reservoir  on  the  E. 
Immediately  adjoining  on  the  S.  are  the  new  Freedman's 
Hospital  grounds  and  buildings  (leased  by  the  University 
from  the  Government). 

Reached  by  9th  St.  trolley  (marked  "Soldiers'  Home,"  "Bright- 
wood"  or  "Takoma  Park")    to  Howard'  place. 

Howard  University  was  chartered  March  2d,  1867,  for  the  edu- 
cation of  the  young  "without  regard  to  sex  or  color."  In  point  of 
fact  it  has  included  among  its  students  American  Indians,  Chinese, 
Japanese  and  Europeans  of  several  nationalities;  but  it  is  today  at- 
tended almost  exclusively  by  the  colored  race.  Its  early  Presidents 
included:  1.  Rev.  Byron  Sunderland  (p.  134);  2.  General  O.  O.  Howard, 
after  whom  the  institution  was  named;  3.  Rev.  William  W.  Patton; 
4.  Rev.  Jeremiah  B.  Rankin.  In  addition  to  the  Academic  Department 
the  University  includes,  a  School  of  Theology,  a  School  of  Law 
(founded   1867),   and  a   School  of    Medicine    (founded    1868). 

Maj.-Gen.  O.  O.  Howard  (1 830-1909)  entered  the  Civil  War  in 
May,  1 861,  as  Colonel  of  the  3d  Maine  Volunteers,  and  as  senior 
Colonel  led  his  brigade  at  the  Battle  of  Bull  Run.  His  gallantry 
earned  him  the  rank  of  Brig.-General,  and  as  such  he  served  until, 
at  Fair  Oaks,  June,  1862,  he  received  wounds  which  cost  him  an  arm. 
After  the  war  he  became  head  of  the  Freedmen's  Bureau,  and  his 
splendid  service  on  behalf  of  the1  newly  made  citizens  was  publicly 
recognized   by  the  founding  of  this  University   named  in   his  honor. 

The  University  buildings  are  all  on  the  main  campus, 
excepting  the  Law  School  'building  (p.  140)  which  faces 
Judiciary  Square.  On  R.  of  Howard  Place  entrance  is  the 
attractive  Rankin  Memorial  Chapel,  erected  in  memory  of 
Andrew  E.  Rankin,  brother  of  the  late  President.  It  is  a 
rather  pleasing  example  of  English  Gothic,  the  exterior  being 
of  traprock.  The  main  auditorium,  with  its  heavy  oak  beams, 
is  suggestive  of  old  English  Halls.  Note  especially  the 
three-paneled  memorial  window  at  the  N.  end,  depicting: 
In   centre,   the   Landing   of   the    Pilgrims ;    on    L.   and    R.   the 


GEORGIA  AVENUE  431 

House  at  Scrooby,  and  the  City  of  Leyden.  The  attractive 
University  Library  is  opposite  the  chapel,  on  L.  of  entrance. 
It  was  founded  in  1910  by  Andrew  Carnegie. 

The  nucleus  of  the  library  was  started  in  1867  by  the  gift  of  a 
Webster's  Dictionary.  In  1874,  five-hundred  volumes  were  acquired 
from  Lewis  Tappan,  to  be  kept  permanantly  separate  as  the  Tappan 
Anti-slavery  Library.  There  are  now  approximately  30,000  volumes 
and    22,000   pamphlets.      The   President's    office   is   on    the   second    floor. 

The  main  building,  facing  the  campus,  immediately  E.  of 
chapel,  is  a  four-story  structure  measuring  184  x  95  ft  It 
contains  the  offices  of  Secretary  and  Treasurer,  recitation 
halls,   lecture   rooms,   an   assembly  hall  and  museum. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  campus  is  Clark  Hall,  the  young 
men's  dormitory,  named  after  David  Clark  of  Hartford,  who 
donated  $25,000  early  in  the  University's  history.  Miner 
Hall,  the  young  women's  dormitory,  stands  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  campus,  with  its  rear  windows  overlooking  Reservoir 
Lake.    The  New  Science  Hall  (1911)  is  S.  of  the  chapel. 

Opposite  Howard  University,  and  three  short  blocks  due 
W.  stands  the  Garfield  Memorial  Hospital,  incorporated  May 
18th,  1822.    Capacity,  250  beds. 

In  the  main  entrance  hall  are  tablets  and  other  memorials  of  bene- 
factors, including  a  marble  bust  of  Henry  A.  Willard.  The  Victoria 
Memorial  Room  is  in  honor  of  the  Queen's  Jubilee.  Upon  request, 
visitors  will  be  conducted  to  the  sun-parlor,  from  which  a  splendid  view 
may  be  had  of  the  city.  Note  in  the  elevator  a  tablet  acknowledging  it 
to  be  the  gift  of  the  comedian,  S.ol  Smith  Russell.  The  Willard  Me- 
morial, the  latest  of  the  hospital  buildings,  facing  nth  St.,  was  erected 
in    1 9 12.     Appleton  P.    Clark,   Jr.,   architect. 

Directly  W.  of  the  Garfield  Hospital  is  the  *Nezv  Central 
High  School  (PI.  Ill — C3),  erected  in  1916  and  formally  dedi- 
cated February  15th,  1917.  It  occupies  two  entire  city  blocks, 
with  its  main  fagade  on  Clifton  St.  The  visitor,  coming 
from  the  S.,  receives  a  first  impression  of  a  series  of  spacious 
terraces  and  stairways  leading  upward  to  a  huge  four-story 
structure  of  dark  red  brick  with  limestone  trim,  with  a  central 
pavilion  on  the  S.  flanked  by  one-story  ranges  to  E.  and  W. 
This  southern  side  overlooks  the  sweeping  curve  of  a  Stadium, 
with  a  seating  capacity  of  6000.  Both  S.  and  N.  facades  are 
of  Indiana  limestone.  The  latter,  forming  the  main  entrance, 
is  on  the  Roman  Doric  order,  with  three  arched  entrances 
flanked  by  four  pairs  of  Doric  columns.  Above  the  cornice 
is  a  50-ift.  bas-relief  frieze  in  three  panels.  Architect,  William 
B.  Ittner;  sculptor,  George  Julian  Zolnay. 

This  frieze  is  emblematic  of  the  distinctive  features  of 
the  New  High  School,  which  combines  the  Academic,  Busi- 
ness   and    Manual    Training    Departments.       Taken    from    L. 


432  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

to  R.,  the  three  panels  and  the  respective  significance  of  the 
successive  figures  portrayed  are  as  follows : 

East  Panel.  Business  Training:  i.  Ship  Building  (holding  ham- 
mer and  sail-hoat) ;  2.  Accounting  and.  Book-keeping,  (with  ledger); 
3.  Commercial  Geography  (with  globe  and  compasses) ;  4.  Commerce 
"(with  Mercury's  caduceus) ;  5  and  6.  Barter  and  Sale  (holding  re- 
spectively  merchandise   and   account   book). 

Central  Panel.  Academic  Training:  1.  and  2.  Chemistry  (holding 
retort);  3.  Mathematics  (with  sextant);  4.  Physical  Culture  (youth 
with  dumb-bells);  5.  Art  (female  iigure  with  palette);  6.  Music  (with 
lyre)  ;  7.  History  (this  figure  is  a  full-length  portrait  of  Emery!  Wilson, 
Principal  of  the  High  School) ;  8.  Biology  (with  microscope) ;  9.  Phil- 
osophy   (bust  of  Socrates). 

West  Panel.  Manual  Training:  1.  Domestic  Science  (woman  with 
a  rolling-pin) ;  2.  and  3.  Dressmaking;  4.  and  5.  Mechanical  Drawing 
(4.  is  a  portrait  of  Snowden  Ashford,  municipal  architect;  5.  Portrait  of 
William  B.  Ittner,  architect  of  the  school) ;  6.  the  Crafts  (symbolized 
as  Pottery  holding  an  urn);  7.  Mechanics  (holding  a  cogged  wheel; 
portrait  of   William   Dall,   the   contractor). 

History.  Although  for  several  years  previous  to  1876  the  Wash- 
ington public  schools  had  offered  a  certain  amount  of  work  beyond  the 
8th  grade,  the  first  step  toward  a  High  School  was  made  by  the  open- 
ing of  the  two  "Advanced  Grammar  Schools,"  one  for  girls  in  Septem- 
ber, 1876,  the  other  for  boys  (in  the  Seaton  School;  see  p.  362)  in 
December,  1877.  These  schools  began  with  a  one-year  course,  shortly 
increased  to  two  years,  and  again  to*  three  years,  in  1882,  when  they 
consolidated  in  the  Washington  High  School,  situated  at  O  and  7th 
Sts.  From  an  enrollment  of  412  students,  the  school  increased  in 
seven  years  to  more  than  one  thousand.  In  September,  1890,  the 
Eastern,,  Western,  and  Business  High  Schools  were  fqrmed.  The?  orig- 
inal school  now  took  the  name  of  Central  High  School,  and  the  course 
was  increased  to  four  years.  A  Manual  Training  course  was  added,  and 
resulted,  in  1901,  in  the  establishment  of  the  McKinley  Manual  Training 
School.  In  the  new  school  both  manual  and  business  training  have 
been    re-introduced    into    the    curriculum. 

Visitors  may  enter  the  building  freely.  In  the  centre, 
rising  through  two  stories,  is  the  Auditorium,  with  seating 
capacity  of  about  1800.  The  47  lecture  rooms  will  care  for 
2500  pupils  (a  number  nearly  reached  already).  The  Manual 
Training  Department  includes  print  shops  and  wood-working. 
Among  other  special  features  are  the  spacious  swimming  pool, 
the  physics  laboratory,  the  separate  gymnasiums  for  boys  and 
girls,  the  Domestic  Science  room  and  the  School  Bank,  de- 
signed to  inculcate  the  habit  of  thrift. 

Returning  to  Georgia  Ave.  and  continuing  N.  about  a 
mile,  we  reach  the  suburban  district  of  Petworth.  Here  a 
branch  trolley  line  turns  E.  on  Upshur  St.  to  the  main  en- 
trance of  the  Soldiers'  Home,,  and  passes  just  S.  of  Grant 
Circle,   at   intersection  of   New   Hampshire  and   Illinois  Aves. 

The  Soldiers'  Home  (PI.  Ill — B4)  is  situated  on  one 
of  the  highest  elevations  north  of  the  citv,  the  southern  bound- 


THE    SOLDIERS'   HOME  433 

ary  of  its  extensive  grounds  lying  about  2^2  miles  distant  from 
the  Capitol,  measured  along  N.  Capitol  St.,  which,  if  extended, 
would  intersect  the  grounds  almost  midway.  The  Home  may 
be  reached  most  directly  by  9th  St.  Line,  north  from  Penn- 
sylvania Ave.  Cars  marked  "Soldiers'  Home"  turn  E.  on 
Upshur  Ave.  (6  squares)  to  the  N.W.  entrance  or  "Eagle 
Gate."  The  N.  Capitol  St.  Line  also  passes  the  Home  at  the 
S.E.  corner.  The  tourist  will  find  it  convenient  to  go  or  return 
by  the  latter  line,  including  in  the  same  trip  the  Catholic 
University  (p.  416),  and  the  Franciscan  Monastery  (p.  423). 
Open  to  visitors  all  day,  including  holidays. 

History.  The  Soldiers'  Home  dates  officially  from  March  3d,  1851, 
when  Congress  passed  an  Act  "to  found  a  military  asylum  for  the 
relief  and  support  of  invalid  and  disabled  soldiers  of  the  Army  of 
the  United  States."  The  scheme  for  such  an  institution,  however,  was 
first  broached  in  1829;  and  in  1840  it  was  strongly  urged  by  General 
(then  Captain)  Anderson, — a  member  of  whose  family  has  published 
a  voluminous  monograph  to  prove  that  he  was  the  real  founder  of  the 
Soldiers'  Home.  In  February,  1848,  General  Scott  transmitted  to  the 
Secretary  of  War  a  draft  of  $100,000,  being  part  of  the  tribute  levied 
by  him  on  the  City  of  Mexico  for  the  benefit  of  the  Army,  and 
expressed  a  hope  that  this  sum  might  be  allowed  to  go  toward  the 
establishment   of   an   Army   Asylum. 

In  pursuance  of  the  above-mentioned  Act  of  Congress,  the  Home 
was  established  in  1851-52,  the  original  purchase  of  ground  amounting 
to  256  acres.  The  subsequent  acquisitions  were  small  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  estate  known  as  Harewood  (191  acres),  owned  formerly  by 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Breckenridge,  pastor  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church 
(p.  136),  and  later  by  W.  W.  Corcoran,  frdm  whom  it  was  acquired  in 
1872.  The  entire  holdings  now  amount  to  more  than  500  acres.  They 
form  an  irregular  pentagon,  bounded  on  the  E.  and  S.  E.  by  Michigan 
Ave.,  and  on  the  E.  and  N.E.  by  Harewood  Road,  on  the  N.W.  by 
Rock    Creek   Church    Road    and    on    the   W.    by    Park    Place. 

The  Home  at  first  received  both  volunteer  and  regular  soldiers,  but 
is  now  restricted  to  enlisted  men  of  the  regular  army.  Qualifications : 
Soldiers  of  twenty  years  standing,  and  men,  whether  pensioners  or  not, 
who  have  been  disabled  by  wounds  or  disease  in  service  or  in  line  of 
duty.  Such  men  are  admitted  to  the  Home  or,  if  they  prefer  to  reside 
outside,  may  receive  an  allowance  from  the  fund.  They  must  have 
been  honorably  discharged;  hence  they  are  all  civilians.  Each  man, 
however,  is  supplied  with  a  uniform,  and  is  permitted  such  insignia 
of  his  rank  (stripes,  service  chevrons,  etc.)  as  he  wore  in  service.  The 
inmates  are  organized  in  squads  and  companies,  and  all  are  subject  to 
the   "Rules  and   Articles  of  War." 

Approximately  1000  men  reside  at  the  Home,  ranging  in  age  from 
24  to  90.  The  majority  draw  pensions  which  the  law  permits  to  be 
paid  in  whole  or  in  part  to  relatives.  Otherwise  the  pension  money 
is  drawn  by  the  Treasurer  of  the  Home,  the  pensioners  drawing  a 
portion  only  and  receiving  the  remainder  when   they  leave. 

The  annual  income  of  the  Home  approximates  $250,000,  derived  from 
the  following  sources:  1.  Tax  of  12^  cents  a  month  on  each  enlisted 
man  of  the  army;  2.  Dues  to  deserters;  3.  Fines;  4.  Sale  of  unclaimed 
effects  of  dead  soldiers;  5.  Interest  on  the  surplus  fund  (approximately 
four   million   dollars,   drawing   3%  interest   from  the  United   States). 


434  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

The  visitor  will  find  himself  quite  free,  not  only  to  wan- 
der at  random  through  the  grounds,  but  to  enter  the  buildings, 
and  even  inspect  the  dining-room,  kitchen  and  sleeping  apart- 
ments. Instead  of  resenting  intrusion,  the  inmates  take  such 
pride  in  their  Home  that  they  seem  to  welcome  inspection. 

The  buildings  constituting  the  Home  are  grouped  around 
a  quadrangle  in  the  extreme  northern  section  of  the  grounds. 
Entering  the  Eagle  Gate  the  visitor  passes  first,  on  L.,  the 
Administration  Building,  a  two-story,  tiled-roof  building,  de- 
signed in  bungalow  style.  Just  beyond  on  S.  side  of  drive, 
is  the  Anderson  Cottage,  a  three-story,  many  gabled  structure, 
named  after  Gen.  Robert  Anderson,  a  hero  of  Ft.  Sumter. 

This  was  the  original  "Home,"  and  in  later  years  has  served  as 
the  summer  residence  of  several  Presidents:  Buchanan,  1856-60; 
Lincoln,  1861-64;  Hayes,  1877-80;  Arthur,  1882-84.  President  Gar- 
field   expected   to   occupy   it   in    1881. 

Directly  E.  stands  the  largest  and  most  conspicuous  of 
the  group,  the  Scott  Building,  including  the  northern  addition, 
the  Sherman  Building.  It  is  a  solid  granite  structure  consisting 
of  three  stories  and  basement,  with  main  facade  fronting  S., 
surmounted  by  a  lofty  square  castellated  clock-tower  (B.  S. 
Anderson,  architect;  Gilbert  Cameron,  builder).  Above  en- 
trance doorway  is  inscribed,  "A  grateful  country  to  her  De- 
fenders." 

This  principal  edifice  (forming  an  elongated  letter  H) 
Comprises  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  The  original  Scott  Building; 
2.  Middle  wing,  the  Scott  Annex;  3.  Sherman  Building. 

The  Annex  contains  the  Soldiers'  Home  Library,  dating  back 
almost  as  far  as  the  Home  itself.  It  occupied  a  single  room  in  the 
Scott  Building  until  1877.  It  was  then  moved  into  a  Japanese  building 
purchased  from  the  Centennial  Exposition  Commission  for  $39,000.  It 
remained  in  this  picturesque  structure  until  191 1,  when  it  was  removed 
to  its  present  quarters.  The  Library  is  open  from  7.30  A.  M.  to  8.30 
P.  M.  Its  resources  are  approximately  13,000  volumes,  40%  fiction. 
Open  to  the  public  for  reference;  circulating  privileges  limited  to 
members  and  employees. 

Continuing  west,  between  the  Scott  Building  and  the  lofty 
water-tower,  we  pass  the  Sheridan  Building,  a  three-story  dor- 
mitory with  mansard  roof  and  surrounding  balconies,  named 
in  honor  of  Gen.  Philip  H.  Sheridan,  who  was  President  of 
the  Board  of  Commissioners  when  the  building  was  erected 
(1883).  Directly  N.  is  the  Grant  Building,  architecturally  the 
finest  structure  in  the  Home.  It  is  a  three-story  building, 
faced  throughout  with  white  marble ;  at  the  main  entrance 
(facing  S.)  are  six  monolithic  marble  columns.  The  con- 
spicuous bronze  lanterns  flanking  the  entrance  were  cast  by 
the  /.  L.   Mott  Iron   Works,  N.  Y.     This   building  contains 


THE    SOLDIERS'   HOME  435 

the  dining-rooms  and  kitchens  of  the  Home.  Excepting  at 
meal  time,  visitors  may  freely  inspect  the  rooms  and  admire 
the  delightful  cleanliness  of  them. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  quadrangle,  directly  opposite  the 
Sheridan  Building,  is  Stanley  Hall,  the  Playhouse  of  the 
Home,  containing  on  main  floor  a  spacious  stage  and  audito- 
rium (note  the  artistic  woodwork  supporting  ceiling)  ;  also 
hall  in  basement  containing  interesting  collection  of  portraits, 
etc.,  crayons,  pen-drawings  and  photographs,  relating  mainly 
to  the  Civil  War. 

The  red  brick  building  to  S.E.  is  the  Guard  House  (no 
admittance).  S.W.,  facing  the  Scott  Building,  is  another  dor- 
mitory, the  King  Building,  named  after  Surgeon  B.  King,  for 
thirteen  years  the  attending  surgeon ;  also  Secretary  and  Treas- 
urer of  the  Home. 

To  the  south  the  grounds  widen  out  in  spacious,  undulating 
meadows,  occupied  by  tennis  courts  and  golf  links. 

The  *Scott  Monument  stands  on  a  knoll,  approximately 
one-third  mile  S.  of  Scott  Building,  on  the  crest  of  a  bluff 
commanding  one  of  the  best  views  of  the  city.  It  consists  of 
a  full-length  standing  figure  in  bronze,  heroic  size,  designed 
bv  haunt  Thompson  (1873),  and  cast  by  B.  Wood  &  Co., 
Phil. 

West  of  the  Scott  Monument  a  narrow,  undulating  brick  path 
(reached  behind  the  houses  of  resident  officials)  leads  S.  to  The  Lake, 
a  series  of  artificial  pools  containing  a  small  collection  of  aquatic  birds, 
including  black  swans,  Mandarin  Ducks,  Mallards,  etc.  To  the  S.W, 
are  the  barns  and  pastures  of  a  herd  of  thoroughbred  cattle,  reputed  to 
contain  some  of  the  best  stock  in  the  middle  Atlantic  section.  The 
inmates  of  the  Home  pride  themselves  on  the  immaculate  cleanliness 
of  the  barns. 

Directly  E.  of  the  Soldiers'  Home  grounds  is  a  small 
National  Cemetery  containing  the  Mausoleum  of  Gen.  John 
A.  Logan.  The  main  entrance  is  through  a  Memorial  Gate- 
way at  the  N.  W.  cor.,  facing  the  entrance  to  Rock  Creek 
Cemetery,  and  inscribed  with  the  names:  1.  Scott;  2.  Wash- 
ington; 3.  Jackson;  4.  Grant;  5.  Taylor;  6.  Greene;  7.  Brown; 
8.  Meade.  This  entrance,  however,  is  usually  closed,  and 
the  visitor  must  walk  S.  on  Harewood  Road  to  the  Western 
Gate  near  the  Superintendent's  lodge.  A  few  feet  N.  of 
entrance  is  the  Logan  Mausoleum,  built  in  the  form  of  a 
simple  English  Gothic  chapel  of  gray  granite.  Through  the 
iron  screen  in  the  jloorway  can  be  seen  the  memorial  East 
window  in  stained-glass,  bearing  the  Logan  coat-of-iarms. 

About  fi'fty  yards  E.  is  a  memorial  pavilion,  supported  on 
ten  Grecian  columns,  which  are  severallv  inscribed  as  fol- 
low: 1.  Lytle;  2.  Stevens;  3.  Berry;  4.  Richards;  5.  Kirby, 
6.  dishing;  7.  Russell;  8.  Baker;  9.  Kearney;  10.  Wadsworth. 


436  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

*Rock  Creek  Cemetery  (PI.  Ill— A4)  and  old  St. 
Paul's  Church,  Rock  Creek  Parish,  constituting  the  oldest 
church  and  burying  ground  within  the  District  limits,  are 
situated  directly  N.  of  the  Soldiers'  Home,  with  the  main 
entrance  diagonally  opposite  the  northern  gateway  of  the 
Home  grounds.  Although  the  cemetery  was  not  incorporated 
until  1872,  a  portion  of  the  ground  adjoining  the  church  has 
been  used  for  interments  since  1719,  in  which  year  Col.  John 
Bradford  donated  a  "Glebe"  of  100  acres,  to  be  held  in  per- 
petuity  for  church  purposes. 

On  R.  of  entrance  gate  just  beyond  the  dignified  granite 
lodge  in  English  Gothic,  is  a  Peace  Cross  erected  to  the  mem- 
ory of  John  Bradford,  the  donor  of  the  Glebe  (sculptured  by 
/.  and  R.  Lamb,  N.  Y.,  from  designs  by  W.  and  G.  Ardsley). 
The  left  hand  driveway,  running  slightly  N.  W.,  leads  to  the 
site  of  the  quaint  old  Rock  Creek  Church,  almost  wholly 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1921  (now  in  course  of  restoration),  it 
was  a  plain  square  structure  of  red  'brick,  with  long  narrow 
windows,  and  a  square  open  tower  above  front  entrance.  As 
recorded  on  a  white  marble  tablet,  inserted  on  W.  Side,  the 
original  church  structure  was  erected  in  1719;  rebuilt  in  1775 
and  remodeled  in  its  modern  form  in  1864.  The  interior  was 
austerely  simple,  its  square,  box-like  effect  being  relieved  only 
by  the  recesses  on  the  E.  containing  the  central  altar,  Baptistry 
and  organ-pipes.  There  were  six  memorial  windows,  by  F.  X. 
Zettler,  of  Munich. 

The  oldest  graves  are  those  immediately  surrounding  the 
church.  They  are,  however,  of  purely  local  interest.  On  the 
driveway  running  northward  from  N.  W.  cor.  of  church,  are 
several  handsome  vaults,  the  first  reached  being  that  of  Mont- 
gomery Blair,  1813-83,  and  of  his  father,  Francis  Preston  Blair, 
1701-1876,  for  many  years  the  distinguished  editor  of  the 
official  administration  organ,  The  Globe.  Following  this  same 
road  northward,  the  visitor  presently  comes  to  a  small  oval 
pool,  dignified  'by  the  name  of  "The  Lake."  On  the  higher 
ground  to  the  W.  is  the  monument  to  Levi  Ziegler  Leiter,  an 
elaborately  carved  sarcophagus  of  Italian  marble,  with  delicate 
bas-reliefs  (protected  from  the  weather  by  being  completely 
enlosed  in  glass.) 

The  Lake  is  a  convenient  landmark  for  the  tourist  who, 
without  its  help,  would  find  the  local  topography  sadly  con- 
fusing. Just  beyond  the  Lake,  on  R.,  (S.  W.  cor.  of  section 
C),  are  a  series  of  nearly  a  score  of  very  old  tombstones  re- 
moved from  former  burying-lots,  and  laid  flat  upon  the  turf. 
The  first  three,   directly  in  the  corner  of  the  lot,   mark  the 


ROCK  CREEK  CEMETERY  437 

■graves  of  David  Burnes  (p.  xxvii),  one  of  the  four  original 
proprietors  of  the  city  territory,  his  wife,  Anne,  and  his  son, 
John. 

It  was  generally  assumed  that  the  parents  of  Marcia  Burnes.  wife 
of  John  P  Van  Ness,  were  interred  in  her  lot  adjoining  the  old  Church 
of  the  Ascension,  on  H  St.,  and  later  transferred,  together  with  mauso- 
leum, to  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (p.  479).  In  comparatively  recent  years  the 
opening  up  of  new  streets  in  the  N.  E.  section  of  the-  city,  brought  to 
public  attention  the  fact  that  old  Davy  Burnes,  his  wife  and  young 
son,  had  all  been  interred  in  a  plot  assigned  by  him  to  an  intimate 
friend,  whose  holdings  covered  many  acres  of  the  N.  E  Section.  The 
city  improvements  compelled  the  removal  of  the  remains.  The  old 
tombstones  are  well  preserved.  They  now  lie  under  two  ancient  Tulip 
trees  and  can  still  be  read.  David  Burnes  lies  between  his  son  (on  W.), 
and  his  wife  (on  E.).  His  stone  bears  the  inscription:  "David  Burnes, 
Esq.,  of  the  city  of  Washington,  died  the  8th  day  of  May,  1800,  aged 
60  years,  2  months  and  24  days." 

South  of  the  Burnes  graves,  and  E.  of  the  Lake,  is  the 
*Kaufmann  Memorial,  consisting  of  a  granite  exedra,  seated 
on  which  is  a  haunting,  life-size  figure  in  bronze,  symbolizing 
Memory.  \n  the  curve  above  the  seat  of  the  exedra  are  seven 
bronze  panels  in  low-relief,  representing,  with  adaptations, 
Shakespeare's  Seven  Ages  of  Man.  JViUiain  Ordzvay  Part- 
ridge, sculptor). 

Diagonally  E.  of  the  Kauimann  Memorial  is  the  severely 
plain  granite  sarcophagus  of  William  Windom  (1827-91), 
former  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  S.  W.  of  Windom  stands 
the  monument  of  Hugh  McCullogh,  twice  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury    (1865-69  and   1884). 

Somewhat  N.  of  the  Windom  monument  and  almost  due 
E.  of  Kaufmann  lot  is  the  memorial  to  Charles  Mather  Ffoulke, 
a  semi-circular  enclosure  built  of  rough-hewn  granite, 
with  bronze  tablet  on  outer  side,  while  within  is  a  draped 
female  figure  of  bronze,  standing  beside  an  open  tomb,  and 
inscribed  "Rabboni!"  (Gutzon  Borglum,  sculptor).  Further 
E.  is  the  monument  to  Elisha  Francis  Riggs  (1851-1910),  for- 
mer partner  of  W.  W.  Corcoran. 

Turning  N.  on  second  path  E.  of  Lake  we  pass,  on  L., 
the  mausoleum  of  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  the  "Father  of 
modern  Washington"  (p.  xxxiv).  It  is  a  Greek  temple,  on  the 
Doric  order,  built  of  granite,  with  four  columns  on  main 
facade. 

If  the  visitor  now  goes  E.  to  next  parallel  path  and  turns 
S.,  towards  the  church,  he  will  pass  on  L.  a  circular  grove  of 
tall  evergreens,  surrounding  Augustus  Saint-Gaudcns'  world- 
famous  ^Memorial  to  Mrs.  Henry  Adams,  consisting  of  a 
mysterious    veiled    female    figure    in    bronze,    most    commonly 


438  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

called    "Peace    of    God,"    although    what    the    artist    meant    to 
symbolize   is  not   definitely  known. 

Beside  the  church  is  the  monument  to  Matthew  G.  Emery 
(1818-1901),  the  last  Mayor  of   Washington. 

*Fort  Stevens,  the  only  one  of  the  city's  chain  of  fortifi- 
cations during  the  Civil  War  that  was  called  into  action,  is 
situated  on  the  L.  of  Georgia  Ave.  (formerly  7th  St.  Pike), 
in  the  old  village  of  Brightzvood,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
beyond  the  Soldiers'  Home  (p.  432).  Take  9th  St.  car  marked 
either  "Brightwood"  or  "Takoma  Park." 

Brightwood  in  ante  bellum  days  was  the  summer  home 
of  the  Blairs,  the  Lees,  the  Blagdons  and  other  prominent 
Washington  families ;  also  of  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  the 
"father    of    greater    Washington." 

Leaving  the  car  at  Madison  St.,  just  S.  of  the  village  cen- 
tre, the  visitor  sees  on  his  R.  an  old-fashioned  country  resi- 
dence, standing  on  an  eminence  in  the  centre  of  spacious 
grounds.  This  is  Emery  Place,  once  the  country  home  of 
Matthew  Gault  Emery,  the  last  Mayor  of  Washington.  It 
was  subsequently  acquired  by  William  Van  Zandt  Cox 
(nephew  of  Sunset  Cox)  who,  prior  to  1900,  purchased  the 
ground  occupied  by  Fort  Stevens,  in  order  to  preserve  and 
eventually  make  it  a  Government  reservation.  During  the 
Civil  War,  Emery  Place  was  used  as  a  signal  station,  and 
also  as  headquarters  of  Generals  D.  W.  Couch  and  F.  A. 
Walker. 

A  few  hundred  feet  N.,  on  W.  side  of  Georgia  Ave.,  at 
corner  of  Rock  Creek  Ford  Road,  is  a  hotel  occupying  the 
site  of  the  headquarters  of  General  McCook  during  Early's 
raid.  On  W.  side  of  road,  just  jS.  of  a  small  white  wooden 
church,  is  a  vacant  lot,  the  site  of  the  Barracks  and  Officers' 
quarters  used  by  Union  troops,  and  also  as  hospital  during 
the  battle  of  July  12th,  1864. 

Just  beyond,  on  L.,  are  the  public  school  house  and 
(crowning  a  high  embankment  twenty  feet  above  street  level) 
the  Emery  Memorial  Church.  The  main  portion  of  Fort 
Stevens  is  in  the  rear  of  this  church,  and  is  reached  through 
the  school-yard,  on  N.  side  of  school,  then  N.  through  lane, 
and  W.,  past  a  row  of  two-story  wooden  dwellings.  The 
church  occupies  the  S.E.  extension  of  the  fort,  and  the 
curving  terrace  on  the  Ave.  side  is  part  of  the  old  Fort 
bastion. 

Although  these  historic  ruins  have  been  sadly  neglected, 
it  is  even  now  easy  to  trace  a  large  part  of  the  perimeter, 
with  the  help  of  a  faded  diagram  framed  on  the  outer  wall 


FORT  STEVENS  439 

of  the  westernmost  house  in  the  above-mentioned  row.  Mid- 
way on  the  northern  bastion,  reinforced  at  this  point  with 
concrete,  is  the  Lincoln  Bozvlder,  recently  marked  'by  the  erec- 
tion of  a  bronze  tablet.  The  place  was  identified  by  General 
Wright  as  the  spot  where  President  Lincoln  stood,  exposed  to 
the  fire  of  the  enemy,  during  the  battle  of  Fort  Stevens,  July 
12th,   1864. 

History.  Fort  Stevens  was  built  soon  after  the  first  battle  of 
Bull  "Run,  chiefly  by  General  D.  N.  Couch's  brigade;  and  because  two 
out  of  its  four  regiments  were  the  7th  and  10th  Massachusetts,  it  was 
originally  called  Fort  Massachusetts.  It  later  received  its  present  name 
in  honor  of  Brig.-Ceneral  Isaac  Ingalls  Stevens  of  Massachusetts, 
"killed    at    Chantilly,    Va.,    September    1st,    1862. 

This  fort  was  tegarded  as  the  key  to  the  defenses  of  Washington. 
It  had  an  armament  of  nineteen  guns  and  was  officially  described  as 
"a  powerful  and  satisfactory  work."  It  had  a  perimeter  of  1125  ft., 
and  was  321  ft.  above  mean  tide.  Within  the  enclosure  were  two 
magazines,   a   bomb-proof   and    block   house. 

During  the  battle  President  Lincoln  stood  by  the  side  of  General 
WTright  on  the  parade,  exposed  to  sharp  shooters.  General  Wright 
maintained  that,  as  Commander  of  the  Fort,  he  was  responsible  for  the 
President's  safety,  and  must  insist  that  he  should  retire  behind  shelter, 
but  Lincoln  claimed  his  rights  as  Commander-in-Chief.  This  was  the 
only  battle  in  which  any  President  of  the  United  States  was  ever 
present  and  exposed  to  fire.  General  J.  C.  Breckenridge,  the  candi- 
date for  President  who  had  received  the  votes  of  the  seceding  states, 
was  also  a  spectator  of  this  battle,  expecting  to  enter  the  Capital  with 
the  Army  of  North  Virginia.  The  fight  had  lasted  only  a  few  minutes 
when  the  stream  of  bleeding  and  mangled  soldiers  began  to  come  to 
the  rear.  The  little  brigade  of  Union  troops  numbered  only  1,000 
men  when  it  went  into  action,  of  whom  250  were  lost.  The  Com- 
manding officer  of  every  regiment  in  the  brigade  was  either  killed  or 
wounded. 

.  About  one  thousand  feet  N.,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Georgia 
Ave.  and  Piney  Branch  Road,  stands  a  comfortable  wooden 
residence  built  and  occupied  by  a  veteran  of  the  Fort  Stevens 
battle,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Toll-Gate  House,  occupied  by 
General  Early's  picket  line,  and  marking  the  nearest  ap- 
proach of  the  Confederates  to  Washington, 

A  few  hundred  feet  N.,  on  E.  side  of  Georgia  Ave.,  is 
the  small  Battle-Field  Cemetery  in  which  are  buried  forty 
of  the  fifty- four  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Fort 
Stevens.  The  entrance  is  flanked  by  two  old  cannon  mounted 
on  brick  piers.  On  R.  of  entrance  is  a  small  stone  lodge  on 
the  wall  of  which  is  a  bronze  tablet  inscribed  with  Lincoln's 
Gettysburg  Address. 

On  R.  of  entrance,  facing  the  highway,  are  four  monuments  com- 
memorating the  fallen  soldiers  of  the  four  regiments  that  took  part  in 
the  battle;  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Memorial  erected  by  the  State  of  New  York 
in  honor  of  the  25th  N.  Y.  Volunteer  Cavalry;  2.  Memorial  in  honor 
of  "98th   Regt.   P.  "V.    1st  Brig.   2d   Div.   5th   Corps";    3.   ''To  the  gallant 


440  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

sons  of  Onondaga  Co.,  N.  Y. — 1226.  N.  Y.  V.";  4.  The  Ohio  Memorial 
to  "Co.  K  150th  O.  N.  G.  I."  The  names  of  the  dead  are  in  each 
instance   inscribed   upon  the  side  or  rear  faces  of  the  stones. 

The  forty  graves  form  a  circle  in  the  centre  of  the 
cemetery  plot,   marked   by   small   marble  head-stones. 

North,  on  W.  side  of  Georgia  Ave.,  opposite  Butternut 
St.,  is  the  entrance  to  the  grounds  of  the  Walter  Reed  Army 
General  Hospital,  named  in  honor  of  Dr.  Walter  Reed,  185 1- 
1902,  Surgeon  (Major),  U.  S.  A.,  who  risked  his  life  in 
demonstrating  that  the  yellow-fever  germs  were  communi- 
cated to  man  through  the  medium  of  mosquitoes.  The  group 
of  buildings  within  this  Government  reservation  comprise 
the  hospital,  the  residences  of  the  medical  officers  and  dor- 
mitories of  the  nurses. 

About  100  ft.  from  the  entrance  stood  the  Sharpshooter's  Tree,  used 
as  a  signal  station  by  the  Confederate  army;  and  alsio  occupied  by  their 
sharpshooters  during  the  attack  on  Fort  Stevens.  In  its  last  days  this 
old  tree  was  ai  gaunt  wreck,  with  all  its  limbs  reduced  to  stumps,  and 
its  trunk  (circumference  approximately  18  ft.)  completely  overgrown 
with  vines.     It  was  blown  down  Dec:  9,   19,19. 

The  Takoma  Park  trolley  line  here  turns  E.  on  Butternut 
St.  three  blocks,  then  one  block  N.  to  its  terminal  at  Cedar 
St.  Takoma  Park  is  one  of  the  new  and  rapidly  developing 
suburbs  of  Washington,  and  the  new  western  portion  is 
crowded   with   attractive  bungalows. 

The  one  historical  interest,  however,  is  the  Second  Northeast 
Boundary  Stone  of  the  District,  easily  reached  as  follows:  Walk  E. 
on  Cedar  St.  under  the  bridge  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  branch  road; 
then  where  the  streets  fork  keep  to  the  right  on  Carroll  St.  to  Maple 
St.  The  Boundary  Stone  is  on  the  W.  side  of  Maple  St.,  150  ft.  N.  of 
Carroll  St.,  close  beside  the  end  post  of  the  fence  enclosing  the  corner 
lot. 

III.    Connecticut  Avenue  from  Rock  Creek  Bridge 
to  Chevy  Chase 

The  extension  of  Connecticut  Ave.,  W.  of  Rock  Creek 
Bridge,  leads  through  some  of  the  most  fashionable  suburban 
residential  sections,  to  Chevy  Chase  Circle,  on  the  District 
borderline — a  distance  of  approximately  3^  mi. 

Just  N.  of  Calvert  St.,  where  the  electric  car  line  rejoins 
Connecticut  Ave.,  on  W.  side,  is  Woodley  Park  (PI.  Ill — C2), 
a  high  class  residential  section  which  preserves  the  memory  of 
the  home  of  Philip  Barton  Key,  uncle  of  the  poet  Francis 
Scott  Key. 

The  elder  Key  was  brother-in-law  of  Gen.  Uriah  Forrest,  who  with 
Maj.  Benjamin  Stoddert  (once  Secretary  of  the  Navy)  jointly  ownea 
the  large  tract  of  land  N.  of  Georgetown  and  W.  of  Rock  Creek,  known 
as    Rosedale    (see   p.    45s).     Woodley   was    part    of   the   Rosedale   estate. 


CONNECTICUT  AVENUE  EXTENDED  441 

Facing  on)  Woodley  Road,  S.  side,  is  the  Wardman  Park 
Hotel.  (PI.  Ill — C2 — No.  71),  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
recent  of  Washington's  residential  hotels.  It  numbers  among 
its  guests  [  1922]  three  members  of  the  Cabinet :  Albert  B. 
Fall,  Sec.  of  the  Interior;  Henry  C.  Wallace,  Sec.  of  Agri- 
culture; and  Harry  M.  Daugherty,  Atty.  Gen.;  three  Senators 
and  15  Representatives.  Here  also  are  the  offices  of  two 
Legations,  Portugal  and  Salvador. 

At  Jewett  St.,  just  N.  of  Woodley  Park,  E.  side,  is  the 
western  entrance  to  the  National  Zoological  Park  (PI.  Ill — 
C2),  (p.  444).  Continuing  N.  to  the  point  where  Klingle 
Road  crosses  the  Ave.,  we  pass  on  L.,  Cleveland  Park,  another 
residential  'section,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  fact  that 
former  President  Cleveland  had  his  summer  home  here  at 
"Red  Top."  Adjacent  to  Cleveland  Park  was  "Twin  Oaks," 
the  former  summer  home  of  Gardiner  G.  Hubbard,  late  presi- 
dent of  the  'National  Geographical  Society. 

Half  a  mile  N.,  on  Pierce  Mill  Road,  we  reach  the  Bureau 
of  Standards  (PI.  Ill — Bi — No.  14).  This  is  a  Bureau  of 
the  Department  of  Commerce,  charged  with  the  custody  of 
the  standards  adopted  or  recognized  by  the  Government,  and 
employed  to  verify  those  used  in  scientific  investigations,  manu- 
facturing, commerce,  and  in  educational  institutions.  Visitors 
interested  in  technical  or  scientific  research  are  welcome. 

Hours:  10  a.  m.  to  2:30  p.  m.  on  week  days;  in  summer 
time  the  Bureau  closes  on  Saturdays  at  1  p.  m. 

The  functions  of  the  Bureau  of  Standards  include  not  only  the 
custody  and  comparison  of  standards,  both  of  measure  and  of  quality, 
but  also  the  construction,  when  necessary,  of  standards,  their  multiples 
and  subdivisions;  the  testing  and  calibration  of  standard  measuring 
apparatus;  the  determination  of  physical  constants  and  properties  of 
materials,  when  such  data  are  important  to  scientific  or  manufacturing 
interests:  and  other  investigations  as  authorized  by  Congress.  The 
Bureau  is  permitted  to  charge  a  reasonable  fee  for  all  comparisons, 
tests  or  investigations,  except  those  performed  for  the  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment or  for  State  Governments. 

The  Library  of  the  Bureau,  dating  from  1901,  is  devoted  entirely 
to  physics,  technology,  chemistry  and  mathematics.  Open  9  a.  m.  to 
4  p.  m.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  Visitors  are  welcome  to 
consult  books  not  available   in   the   general   libraries   of   the   District. 

Directly  E.  of  the  Bureau  of  Standards,  on  opposite  side 
of  Connecticut  Ave.,  is  the  Academy  of  the  Holy  Cross,  a 
Catholic  institution  for  young  women,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Sisters  of  the  Holy  Crloiss.  Further  E.,  on  Upton  St., 
stands  the  Geophysical  Laboratory  of  the  Carnegie  Institu- 
tion (PI.  Ill — B2),  devoted  to  the  investigation  of  questions 
relating  to  the  formation  of  rocks  and  minerals  under  the 
abnormal  pressures  and  temperatures  existing  in  the  interior  Of 
the  earth.     Still   further  N.  we  pass,  on  L.,   suburb   formerly 


442  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


known  as  Tenallytown  (later  Tenleytown).  On  its  upper 
border  is  the  closely  built-up  modern,  section  of  Reno.  Half 
a  mile  beyond  we  reach  Chevy  Chase  Circle  (PI.  Ill — Ai), 
situated  on  the  boundary  line,  approximately  three  miles  S.  W. 
from  the  comer  of  the  District.  Following  Belt  Road  a  few 
rods  S.  W.  from  the  Circle  we  reach  (in  turf  of  Golf  Course 
on  R.  side  of  road)  the  Third  Northwest  Boundary  Stone, 
dedicated  by  the  D.  A.  R.  Oct.  14,  191 5.  Belt  Road  was  so 
named  in  honor  of  Col.  Joseph  Belt,  original  patentee  of  Chevy 
Chase,  to  whom  the  Belt  Boulder  was  erected  by  the  Society 
of  Colonial  Wars  in  191 1,  in  the  grounds  of  All  Saints'  Epis- 
copal Church,  Chevy  Chase  Circle.     The  inscription  reads : 

"Colonel  Joseph  Belt  ( 1680-176 1),  Maryland.  Patentee  of  Chevy 
Chase.  Trustee  of  first  Free  Schools  in  Maryland.  One  of  the 
founders  of  Rock  Creek  Parish.  Member  of  the  House  of  Burgesses. 
Colonel  of  Prince  George's  County  Militia  during  the  French  and 
Indian  War." 

In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  iChevy  Chase  are 
numerous  golf  courses,  including  those  of  the  Columbia 
Country  Club,  the  Chevy  Chase  Club  and  the  Kirkside  Golf 
Club   (see  p.  28). 

The  first  road  on  P.,  beyond  the/  District  line,  leads  to  the  historic 
tract  long  known  as  Clean  Drinking  Manor,  a  name  derived  from  a 
particularly  clear  spring  on  the  estate.  The  first  owner  was  one  John 
Coates  who,  in  1680,  received  a  Crown  grant  of  1400  acres.  This 
property  was  inherited  by  a  granddaughter,  who  married  Charles  Jones, 
better  known  as  "Uncle  Charlie"  Jones,  famous  for  his  hospitality. 
Clean  Drinking  Manor,  erected  in  1750,  entertained  Washington  on  his 
way  home  to  Alexandria  from  Fort  Duquesne  in  1755.  Here  Postmaster 
Monroe  took  refuge  when  driven  from  Washington  by  the  British;  and 
here  at  a  later  date,   Clay,  Webster  and  Calhoun;  were  welcome   guests. 

IV.  Massachusetts  Avenue  from  Rock  Creek  to  the 

District  Line 

Beyond  Sheridan  Circle,  Massachusetts  Avenue  bends 
almost  due  northwest,  crosses  Rock  Creek,  a  few  rods  N. 
of  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (p.  479),  and  continues  about  3  mi. 
to  the  District  Line,  passing  the  Naval  Observatory,  the 
Washington  Cathedral  and  the  grounds  of  the  American  Uni- 
versity. Since  there  is  no  trolley  line  on  the  lower  section 
of  'Massachusetts  Ave.,  the  visitor  must  either  motor  out,  or 
go  first  to  Georgetown  and  take  a  Wisconsin  Ave.  Car,  which 
turns  off  onto  Massachusetts  Ave.  opposite  the  Cathedral 
Close. 

The  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory  (PI.  Ill— Ci)  is  situated  in 
Observatory  Circle,  about  JA  mi-  beyond  Rock  Creek,  on  S. 
side   O'f   Massachusetts   Ave.    (there  is  also  an  entrance   from 


MASSACHUSETTS  AVENUE  EXTENDED       443 

Wisconsin  Ave.,  beyond  No.  2521).  It  is  the  astronomical 
station  of  the  Government,  under  jurisdiction  of  the  Navy. 
The  superintendent  is  a  naval  officer  of  high  rank  (at  present 
[1922]  Capt.  W.  D.  MacDougall),  whose  primary  object  is  the 
collection  and  dissemination  of  information  of  use  to  mariners. 
The  staff,  however,  is  not  limited  to  naval  men,  but  includes 
civilians  as  well,  and  much  important  astronomical  work  of  a 
purely  scientific  character  is  conducted.  It  was  with  the  26- 
inch  equatorial  telescope  of  this  observatory  that  Asaph  Hall 
discovered  the  moons  of  Mars. 

Hours.  Parties  are  conducted  through  the  observatory 
Thursday  evenings  at  8  p.  m.  Admissiion  by  card  only,  which 
may  be  obtained  by  applying  at  office  of  the  superintendent 
between  9  a.  m.  and  4:30  p.  m. 

The  Naval  Observatory  at  Washington  and  the  Navy  Chronometer 
and  Time  Station  at  the  Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,  Calif.,  furnish  the 
country  standard  time  daily,  both  by  telegraph  and  radio,  respectively 
supplying  the  sections  of  the  country  east  and  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. The  Naval  Observatory  furthermore  supervises  the  outfit  of 
navigational  instruments  for  the  naval  service,  and  conducts  continu- 
ous observations  of  the  heavenly  bodies  for  use  in  preparing  the  annual 
Nautical  Almanac. 

History.  In  the  winter  of  1842-43  Lieut.  J.  M.  Gilliss  was  sent 
to  Europe  to  procure  the  instrumental  equipment  for  a  new  depot  of 
charts  and  instruments,  afterwards  known  as  the  Naval  Observatory. 
Incidentally  he  received  donations  of  books  amounting  to  nearly  500 
volumes  which  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  present  Observatory  Library, 
the  principal  donors  including  the  Royal  Society1  of  London,  the  British 
Admiralty  and  the  East  India  Co.  The  library  now  contains  about 
30,000  volumes,  and  is  reputed  to  be  the  best  collection  of  astronomical 
literature  in  the  western  hemisphere.  The  original  Naval  Observatory 
stood  in  the  grounds  of  the  present  Naval  Hospital  (ip.  215).  The 
new  Observatory  was  erected  on  its  present  site  in  1892,  thereby  giving 
the  world   a  new   meridian. 

The  clock  which  sets  the  standard  for  the  country  is 
kept  in  a  glass  case,  in  a  dark  underground  vault,  so  placed 
that  no  changes  of  temperature  can  affect  it,  being  surrounded 
by  three  walls  with  air  spaces  between.  Scientific  Govern- 
ment officers  watch  over  it  day  and  night,  continually  cor- 
recting it  by  observations  of  the  sun  and  stars.  The  correc- 
tions are  seldom  more  than  10  one-hundredths  'of  a  second. 
From  this  clock  wires  pass  to  two  time-sending  clocks  in 
another  room,  and  from  these  the  correct  time  is  sent  out  to 
the  country  at  large. 

Half  a  mile  beyond  the  Naval  Observatory  Massachusetts 
and  Wisconsin  Aves.  intersect  almost  opposite  the  entrance  to 
the  Cathedral  Close  of  5"*.  Peter's  and  St.  Paul's  (p.  45s). 

The  American  University  (PI.  Ill — Ci),  situated  at  the 
N.  W.  cor.   of  Nebraska  Ave.  and   Massachusetts   Ave.   Ex- 


444 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


tended,  is  an  institution  for  post-graduate  studies,  founded 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  The 
grounds,  comprising  ninety  acres,  were  laid  out  by  the  late 
Frederick  Lazv  Olmsted,  and  the  plans  call  for  a  group  of 
twenty-six  white  marble  buildings,  only  two  of  which  have 
as  yet  been  erected. 

The  origin  of  the  American  University  may  be  indirectly  traced 
to  George  Washington,  one  of  whose  ambitious  dreams  for  the  proposed 
Federal  City  was  the  establishment  of  a  National  institution  of  higher 
learning;  and  he  left  a  bequest  of  $25,000  of  stock  in  the  Potomac 
River  Company  for  this  purpose.  After  Washington's  death,  the  stock 
having  proved  worthless,  Congress  considered  the  question  of  appropri- 
ating a  sufficient  sum  to  found  such  an  institution  as  he  had  desired. 
An  outline  of  the  scheme  was  prepared  and  referred  to  a  committee; 
but  these  plans  were  burned  during  the  British  occupation.  Subse- 
quently, Congress  rejected  the  whole  idea  of  establishing  a  University 
as  a  memorial  to  Washington,  and  substituted  instead  the  Washington 
Monument. 

From  time  to  time  the  scheme  of  a  National  University  was  re- 
vived in  a  more  or  less  indefinite  form;  but  nothing  practical  was 
accomplished  until  1888,  when  Bishop  John  F.  Hurst  acquired  the 
ninety-acre  tract,  formerly  known  as  "Friendship,"  at  a  cost  of 
$100,000.  This  tract  was  originally  owned  by  Col.  Thomas  Addison, 
of  Oxen  Hill  (opposite  Alexandria),  who  gave  it  as  a  wedding  present 
to  his  daughter,  Nancy,  and'  her  husband,  WiTiam  Murdock,  a  Mary- 
land delegate  to  the  famous  Stamp  Act  Congress.  Col.  Addison  was 
a  cousin  to  Joseph  Addison,  the  essayist,  and  tradition  says  that  the 
two  were  students  at  Oxford,  and  that  Oxen  Hill  was  so  named  in 
honor    of    that    University. 

After  the  death  of  Bishop  Hurst,  in  1896,  the  work  was 
carried  on  by  his  successor,  Bishop  Cranston.  Ground  was 
broken  the  same  year,  and  the  cornerstone  of  the  College  o>E 
History  was  laid  by  President  Roosevelt.  This  building,  the 
first  of  the  group,  was  completed  in  1898. 

V.  The  National  Zoological  Park 

The  *  National  Zoological  Park  (PI.  Ill— C2)  compris- 
ing about  175  acres,  is  situated  in  Rock  Creek  valley  about  3  mi. 
N.  W.  of  the  Capitol,  with  its  main  or  W.  entrance  on  Connecti- 
cut Ave.  Reached  by  Chevy  Chase  Line,  from  7th  St.,  to  Con- 
necticut Ave.  and  Jewett  St.  (N.  W.  entrance)  ;  7th  St. 
Line  (marked  "Rock  Creek  Bridge")  to  Lanier  Place  (five 
minute  walk  to  S.  entrance)  ;  or  Connecticut  Ave.  Line 
(marked  "Mt.  Pleasant")  to  Harvard  St.,  at  intersection  of 
16th  St.  and  Columbia  Road  (five  minutes  walk  W.  on 
Harvard  St.  to  S.  E.  entrance). 

History.  Numerous  unsuccessful  attempts,  chiefly  commercial,  had 
previously  been  made  to  establish  some  permanent  exhibit  of  live 
animals  in  Washington.  It  was  not,  however,  until  1887  that  the 
first  serious  movement  was  started  by  Prof.  S.  P.  Langley,  Secretary 
of   the    Smithsonian   Institution.,   in   the   form   of   an   appeal   to   Congress 


THE  NATIONAL  ZOOLOGICAL  PARK  445 


446  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

for  the  establishment  of  a  National  Zoological  Park.  Professor  Lang- 
ley's  interest  arose  primarily  from  the  fact  that  an  important  number 
of  the  larger  native  American  Mammals,  including  the  Buffalo,  Moose 
and  Wapiti  seemed  doomed  to  extinction  within  twenty  years,  unless 
protected  in  adequate  government  preserves.  A  secondary  argument 
was  that  the  Smithsonian  Institution  had  been  for  years  embarrassed  with 
presentations  of  foreign  animals,  birds  and  reptiles  which,  in  the 
absence  of  suitable  quarters,  it  was  forced  to  present  to  some  of  the 
State   Parks. 

In  compliance  with  Professor  Langley's  appeal,  Congress  made 
an  appropriation  of  $200,000  to  establish  within  the  District  of  Columbia 
a  Zoological  Park  "for  the  Advancement  of  Science  and  the  Instruc- 
tion and  Recreation  of  the  People,"  and  also  abundant  space,  where 
these  "native  animals  that  were  threatened  with  extinction  might  live 
and   perpetuate  their   species   in   peace." 

The  resulting  Zoological  Park,  despite  its  175  acres  and  1500  exhibits, 
cannot  fail  to  strike  any  visitor  familiar  with  similar  institutions  in  other 
world  capitals,  as  somewhat  disappointing,  both  in  regard  to  the  range 
of  specimens  exhibited  and  the  inadequate  buildings  which  house  them. 
The  first  of  these  deficiencies  is  perhaps  more  apparent  than  real,  the 
chief  weakness  being  the  relative  lack  of  the  larger  and  more  spectacular 
mammals  of  Asia  and  Africa.  One  misses  the  giraffe,  the  rhinoceros 
and  most  of  the  African  antelopes;  the  Felidae  are  poorly  represented, 
with  few  lions  and  tigers,  while  most  of  the  smaller  cats,  the  Ocelit, 
Serval,  etc.,  are  lacking.  On  the  other  hand,  there  are  notable  bird 
collections,  especially  of  the  American  water  fowl  and  birds  of  prey; 
and  the  open-air  bear  dens  house  a  wide  variety  of  bears.  But  the 
indoor  exhibits,  however  excellent,  do  not  get  the  credit  they  deserve, 
because  of  cramped,  antiquated  quarters.  The  Monkey  House  and  Bird 
House  especially  are  so  dark  that  some  of  the  labels  in  the  cages  can  be 
read  only  with  difficulty. 

These  deficiencies  are  emphasized  by  the  rare  opportunities  offered  by 
the  Park's  spacious  grounds  and  scenic  beauties.  With  the  single  exception 
of  the  collection  in  Bronx  Park,  New  York  City,  which  occupies  204  acres 
exclusive  of  water  surface,  the  National  Zoological  Park  is  unrivaled  in 
extent  of  space.  The  famous  London  "Zoo"  has  only  36  acres,  the 
Jardin  des  Plantes  in  Paris  17  acres,  the  Thiergarten  in  Berlin  40  acres, 
the  Cincinnati  collection  36  acres  and  that  of  Philadelphia  60  acres. 
It  is  only  fair  to  add  that  the  Administration  of  the  Park,  which  is 
under  the  charge  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  has  done  surprisingly 
well  in  view  of  the  scanty  appropriations  that  Congress  has  half- 
heartedly granted.  A  landmark  to  this  parsimonious  spirit  is  still 
standing  in  the  shape  of  the  old  Elephant  House,  a  flimsy,  wooden 
structure  in  which  for  many  years  a  full-grown  elephant  was  kept 
heavily  chained,  until  the  women  of  Washington,  aroused  by  this 
needless  cruelty,  prevailed  upon  Congress  to  provide  the  means  for 
erecting  an  adequate  Elephant  House.  The  original  bill,  providing 
$20,000,  was  cut  down  by  one-half  after  a  debate,  during  which  one 
member  argued  that  $10,000  "ought  to  build  a  house  good  enough  for 
any   elephant  he  had   ever  seen." 

The  Zoological  Park  is  open  throughout  the  year  at 
7.30  a.  m.  The  exhibition  buildings  open  at  9  a.  m.  The 
closing  hours  vary  as  follows:  January  and  February,  Build- 
ings, 4.30  p.  m.,  Grounds,  6  p.  m. ;  March,  Buildings,  5  p.  m., 
Grounds,  6 130  p.  m. ;  April,  Buildings,  5  p.  m.,  Grounds, 
7  p.  m. ;  May  1  to  June  15,  Buildings,  5.30  p.  m.,  Grounds, 
7.30  p.   m. ;   June   16   to  August  31,    Buildings,   5.30  p.   m., 


THE  NATIONAL  ZOOLOGICAL  PARK  447 

Grounds,  8  p.  m. ;  September,  Buildings,  5.30  p.  m.,  Grounds, 
7.30  p.  m. ;  October,  Buildings,  5  p.  m.,  Grounds,  6.30  p.  im. ; 
November  and  December,  Buildings,  4.30  p.  m.,  Grounds, 
6  p.  m. 

Feeding  Hours:  Monkeys  at  9.30  a.  m.  and  3  p.  m. ; 
Lions  and  Tigers  at  1.30  p.  m.,  excepting  on  Sundays;  Wolves 
and  Foxes  at  1.15  p.  m. ;  Bears  and  Sea  Lions,  at  8  a.  m.  and 
3  p.  m. ;  Birds  in  main  Bird  House  at  2.30  p.  m. 

An  official  Popular  Guide,  National  Zoological  Park  is 
on  sale  at  the  Lion  House,  price  35  cents. 

The  Zoological  Park  grounds  lie  mainly  on  the  heights, 
which  rise  abruptly  from  the  W.  bank  of  Rock  Creek,  and 
much  of  it  is  forest  land  with  century-old  trees  towering  up 
from  deep  ravines.  The  Creek,  entering  the  park  at  the 
middle  point  of  the  N.  side,  curves  S.  E.  until  near  the  S. 
boundary,  where  it  makes  a  sudden  sharp  loop  to  the  N., 
forming  altogether  a  reversed  letter  S.  A  broad  carriage- 
drive  crosses  the  bridge  just  within  the  S.  E.  entrance,  and 
curving  to  the  N.  W.  follows  the  upper  course  of  the  Creek 
until  it  reaches  the  Bison  Range,  turning  thence  westward 
to  the  N.  W.  gate.  The  exhibits  are  all  adjacent  to  this 
driveway,  and  the  best  way  to  see  them  without  wearisome 
retracing  of  steps  is  by  entering  at  one  side  of  the  Park  and 
following  the  course  of  the  drive  to  its  exit  at  the  other. 
The  route  here  given  starts  from  the  Adams  Mill  Road  en- 
trance, at  S.  E.  corner  of  the  Park,  and  ends  at  the  Jewett 
Street  entrance  on  Connecticut  Avenue. 

Just  beyond  the  Adams  Mill  Road  entrance  may  be  seen 
the  Administration  Office  Building,  not  open  to  the  public.  It 
is  an  historic  house,  the  old  Holt  Homestead,  where  General 
Jackson  was  accustomed,  during  his  Presidency,  to  seek  relief 
from  the  summer  heat  of  Washington.  A  sign-post  directs 
the  visitor  northward  to  a  steep  path  and  stairway  descending 
to  Rock  Creek.  Continuing  E.,  beside  the  Creek,  we  reach,  on 
R.,  the  first  exhibits:  1.  Indian  Antelope  or  Black  Buck. 
Antelope  cerzticapra;  2.  Harbor  Seal.  Phoca  vitulina  {Linn.)  ; 
3.  Cinnamon  Bear,  Ursus  amcricanus ;  habitat :  forest  region 
of  North  America  from  Alaska  to  Mexico.  The  specimen 
here  shown  is  one  of  two  received  with  their  black  mother  from 
Yellowstone  National  Park  in  1908. 

Just  beyond  these  exhibits  is  the  Harvard  Street  entrance, 
and  the  beginning  of  the  main  driveway.  Following  this 
driveway  westward  across  the  bridge  over  Rock  Creek,  and 
taking  first  path 'on  L.,  we  reach  the  extensive  artificial  pond 
(about  600  ft.  long)  occupied,  by  American  Water  Fowl.  The 
collection  includes  at  present : 


448  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

i.  Wood  Duck,  Aix  sponsa  (Linn.)  ;  2.  Mallard,  Anas 
platyrhynchos  (Linn.)  ;  3.  Black  Duck,  Anas  rubripres  (Brezv- 
ster)  ;  4.  Baldpate,  Mareca  americana  (Gmelin)  ;  5.  Lesser 
Scaup  Duck,  M  aril  a  affinis  (Eyton)  ;  6.  Pintail,  DaRla  acuta 
(Linn.)  ;  7.  Redhead,  Marila  americana  (Eyton)  ;  8.  Canvas- 
back,  M.  Valisineria  (Wilson)  ;  9.  European  Widgeon, 
Mareca  penelope  (Linn.)  ;  10.  Barnacle  Goose,  Branta  cue- 
op  sis;  11.  Trumpeter  Swan,  Olor  buccinator  (formerly  in- 
habited a  large  part  of  interior  of  North  Aimerica,  but  is 
now  almost  extinct)  ;  12.  Whistling  Swan,  Olor  columbianus 
(Ord.)  ;  13.  Canada  Goose,  Branta  canadensis  (Linn.)  ;  14. 
Whitefronted  Goose,  Anser  albifrons;  15.  Greater  Snow 
Goose,  Chen  hyperboreus  nivalis;  16.  Blue  Goose,  Chen  cae- 
rulescens  (Linn.)  ;  17.  Brant,  Branta  vernicla  glaucogastra; 
18.  Ruddy  Sheldrake,  Casarca  ferruginea  Pallas;  19.  Green- 
winged  Teal,  Nettion  carolinense  (Gmelin)  ;  20.  Blue-winged 
Teal,  Querquedula  discors  (Linn.)  ;  21.  American  Coot,-  Fulica 
americana  (Gmelin),  and  nearly  20  other  species  of  American 
Waterfowl. 

The  path  continues  westward  beside  the  Water  Fowl 
Pond,  and  curves  northward  towards  the  Fox  and  Wolf 
Dens,  lying  in  a  narrow  gorge  through  which  a  brook 
flows,  to  join  Rock  Creek  just  below.  There  are  twelve 
of-  these  Dens,  occupied  as  follows:  (S.  W.  to  N.  E.)  :  1. 
Eskimo  Dog,  received  from  |Rear-Adm.  Robert  E.  Peary ; 
2.  Dingo,  Canis  dingo;  3.  Woodhouse's  Wolf,  Canis  frustror; 
4-6.  Plains  Wolf,  Canis  nubilus;  7.  Southern  Wolf,  Canis 
floridanus,  from  Arkansas  National  Park ;  8.  Red  Fox,  Vulpes 
fulva;  9.  Gray  Fox,  Urucyon  cinereoargenteus ;  10.  Coyote, 
Canis  latrans;  11.  Red  Fox;  12.  Texas  Red  Wolf,  Canis 
rufus. 

North  of  the  Wolf  Dens  are  a  series  of  pools  supplied  by 
the  brook,  and  containing:  1.  California  Sea-Lion,  Zalophus 
calif ornianus  (Lesson)  ;  2.  American  Beaver,  Castor  canadensis 
(Kuhl)  ;  3.  Swans;  4.  Florida  Otter,  Lutra  canadensis  vaga; 
5.  Coypu  or  Nutria,  Myo>castor  coypus;  6.  Woodchuck  or 
Ground  Hog,  Marmota  monax. 

The  Bear  Dens  curve  in  a  broad  semi-circle  around  the 
high  ledge  above  us  on  the  E.  Retracing  our  steps,  beside 
the  pools,  we  take  first  ascending  path  on  L.  (E.).  These 
Dens  are  ten  in  number,  containing  the  following  specimens, 
from  N.  to  E. :  1.  American  Black  Bear,  Ursus  americanus; 
Kodiak  Bear,  Ursus  middendorffi;  2.  *Blue  or  Glacier  Bear, 
Ursus  emmonsii,  from  Mt.  St.  Elias  Alps,  Alaska,  first  l'ving 
specimen   ever   exhibited ;    3.    Grizzly    Bear,    Ursus  horribilis. 


THE  NATIONAL  ZOOLOGICAL  PARK  449 

from  Yellowstone  National  Park;  4.  Kidder's  Bear,  Ursus 
kidderi,     from     Cook     Inlet;     Brown     Bear,     Ursus    arctos; 

5.  Peninsula  Bear,    Ursus  gyas;   Yakutat   Bear,    Ursus  dalli; 

6.  Polar  Bear,  Thalassarctos  maritimus;.  7.  Peninsula  Bear ; 
Kidder's  Bear;  8.  Kodiak  Bear;  9.  IBrown  Bear,  young 
specimen  born  in  Zoo  Jan.  7,  1921 ;  10.  Sloth  Bear,  Melursus 
ursinus;  Cinnamon  Bear,  U.  americanus  cinnamomum ;  Florida 
Bear. 

A  few  yards  E.  of  the  Bear  Dens  the  path  brings  us  once 
more  to  the  Main  Driveway,  almost  opposite  the  Lion  House. 
Just  S.  on  L.  of  Driveway,  are  a  group  of  outdoor  cages  in- 
cluding: 1.  California  Condor,  Gymnogyps  calif  omianus, 
several  fine  specimens  of  this  almost  extinct  bird ;  2.  American 
Barn  Owl,  Tyto  perlata  pralincola;  3.  Gray  Coatimundi,  Nasua 
narica;  4,  Red-tailed  Hawk,  Buteo  borealis;  5.  Great  Horned 
Owl,  Bubo  virginianus ;  6.  Rhesus  Monkey,  Macaca  rhesus;  7. 
Audubon's  Caracara,  Polyborus  cheriway;  8.  Barbary  Maca- 
que, Macacus  innuus;  9.  Brown  Macaque,  M.  speciosa. 

We  may  now  cross  the  Driveway,  due  E.,  to  the  Lion 
House,  which  lis  a  T-shaped  building  substantially  built 
of  gneiss,  with  foot  of  T  pointing  almost  N.  Entering 
at  S.  W.  cor.  we  may  proceed  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  build- 
ing from  R.  to  L. : 

South  Wall  (W.  to  E.)  :  1.  Bengal  Tiger;  2.  Lion,  Felis 
Ico ;  3.  Siberian  Tiger,  F.  tigris  longipilis;  4.  Lion;  5.  Tiger 
Cubs;  6.  Cheetah,  Acinonyx  jubatus. 

North  Wall,  East  Section  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  IRegal  Python, 
Python  reticulatus ;  2.  Chimpanzee,  Pan  troglodytes.  This 
specimen,  named  "Soko,"  was  received  from  the  French  Congo 
in  Sept.,   191 5,  and  is  about  ten  years  old. 

North  Wing,  East  Wall  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Orang-utan;  2. 
Spotted  Hyena,  Hyaena  crocuta;  3.  Striped  Hyena,  H.  striata; 
4.    Jaguar,  Felis  onca;  5  and  6.    Leopard,  F.  pardalis. 

West  Wall  (N.  to  S.)  :  1  and  2.  Pair  of  Brazilian  Tapirs, 
Tapirus  americanus  (Gmelin)  ;  the  male  was  received  1899, 
the  female  1901.  Eight  young  have  been  born  of  this  pair; 
3.  and  4.  Cage  and  tank  of  male  Hippopotamus,  received  from 
German  East  Africa  1914,  when  about  three  years  old. 

North  Wall,  West  Section:  Cage  and  tank  of  female 
Hippopotamus,  received  from  East  Africa  in  191 1,  and 
christened  by  the  keepers  "Sairy  Gamp." 

Central  Exhibits :  1.  Large  tank  containing  well-grown 
specimens  of  American  Alligator,  A.  mississippiensis  (Dau- 
din) ;  2.  Large  Glass  Case  containing  Snakes:  Common  Boa, 
Constrictor    constrictor ;    Black    Snake,    Coluber    constrictor; 


450  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Regal  Python,  Python  reticulatus;  Rock  Python,  P.  molurus; 
Chicken  Snake,  Coluber  obsoletus  quadrivittatus ;  Brown 
Water  Snake,  Natrix  taxispilotus. 

Directly  opposite  N.  exit  is  a  small  open  outdoor  cage, 
the_  summer  quarters  of  the  Chimpanzee,  Pan  troglodytes 
(Linn.).  This  specimen,  a  male,  was  received  September  8th, 
1915,  and  was  then  about  three  and  a  half  years  old. 

Opposite  the  N.  E.  side  of  the  Lion  House  are :  the 
Puma  Cage  (Fells'  concolor  Linn.),  and  the  Ostrich  Paddock. 
Continuing  N.  W.  along  the  path  which  here  skirts  the  brink 
of  the  deep  Rock  Creek  gorge,  we  come  next  to  the  Monkey 
House,  easily  distinguished  by  the  terra-cotta  models  of 
baboons  and  other  small  animals  which  surmount  the  roof. 

West  Wall  (N.  to  S.) :  Cage  1.  Bonnet  Macaque,  Macaca  sinica; 
Cage  2.  White-throated  Capuchin,  Cebus  hypoleucus;  Javan  Macaque, 
Macaca  mordax;  Brown  Capuchin,  Cebus  fatuellus ;  Cage  3.  Sooty  Man- 
gabey,  Cercocebus  fuliginosus ;  Cage  4.  Crab-eating  Macaque,  M.  cyno- 
molgus;  White-collared  Mangabey.,  Cercocebus  torquatus ;  Cage  5.  Bengal 
Monkey,  M.  rhesus;  Cage  6.  Mona  Monkey,  Cercopithecus  mono-;  Cage  7. 
Bengal  Monkey;  Cage  8.  Drill,  Papio  leucophaeus ;  Cage  9.  Moot 
Monkey,  Magus  mwurus. 

East  Wall  (S.  to  N.)  :  Cage  1.  Bengal  Monkey;  Cage  2.  Roloway 
Guenon,  Lasiopyga  roloway;  Cage  3.  East  African  Baboon,  Papio 
ibeanus;  Cage  4.  Black-crested  Mangabey,  Cercocebus  aterrimus  ;  Cage  5. 
Arabian  Baboon,  Papio  hamadryas ;  Cage  6.  Mandrill,  Papio  sphinx; 
Cage  7.  Burmese  Macaque,  Macaca  speciosa;  Cage  8,  Vervet  Guenon, 
Lasiopyga  pygerythra;  Cage  9.  Green  Monkey,  Lasiopyga  callitrichus; 
Cage  10.  Pig-tailed  Monkey,  Macaca  nemestrina ;  Cage  11.  Patas  Monkey, 
Cercopithecus  patas;  Cage  12.  Rhodesian  Baboon,  Papio  rhodesiae. 

At  the  N.  W.  end  are  two  tiers  of  cages  containing  Weasels,  Cavys, 
Agoutis  and  othere  small  animals:  (E.  to  W.)  :  1.  Trinidad  Agouti, 
Dasyprocta  rubrata;  2.  Guinea  Pig,  Cavia  porcellus;  3.  Cacomistle, 
Bassariscus  astutus;  4.  Azaras  Agouti,  Dasyprocta  azarae;  5.  Kinkajou, 
Potos  fiavus;  6.  Tayra,  Tayra  barbara;  7.  Malay  Palm  Civet,  Paradoxurus 
hermaphroditus ;  8.  Crested  Agouti,  Dasyprocta  cristata;  9.  Coatimundi, 
Nasua  narica;  10.  South  African  Crested  Porcupine,  Hystrix  cristata; 
11.  Central  American  Paca,  Cuniculus  paca;  12.  Malay  Porcupine,  Acan- 
thion  brachyurum. 

East  of  the  Monkey  House  a  steep  stairway  of  71  steps 
leads  down  to  the  lower  Driveway  and  Bridle-path,  which 
skirt  respectively  the  W.  and  E.  banks  of  Rock  Creek.  On 
the  W.  are  five  paddocks  containing:  (&.  to  N.)  :  1.  Panama 
White-tailed  Deer,  Odocoileus  vHrginianus  chiriquensis ;  2. 
Hog  Deer,  Hyelaphus  porcinus;  3.  Mountain  Goat,  Oreamnos 
americanus^  (gift  of  Canadian  Government)  ;  4.  Yak,  Poepha- 
gus  grunniens;  5.  Manchurian  Stag,  Cervus  xanthopygus.  A 
narrow  'foot-bridge  crosses  the  Creek  to  the  extensive  ranges 
of  the  American  Wapiti,  Cervus  canadensis  (ErxlebenJ. 

Immediately  N.  of  the  Monkey  House  are  (on  R.)  the 
large  open-air  Eagle  Cage;  and  (on  L.)  the  enclosed  Bird 
House.     In  the  former  are  housed:   1.  Golden  Eagle,  Aquila 


THiE  NATIONAL  ZOOLOGICAL  PARK  451 

chrysa'etos  {Linn.)  ;  2.  Bald  Eagle,  Halia'etos  leucocephalus 
(Linn.);  3.  Bearded  Vulture,  Gypaetos  barbatus  (Linn.); 
4.  Griffon  Vulture,  Gyps  julvus  (Linn.);  5.  Cenereous  Vul- 
ture, Vultur  monachus  (Linn.);  6.  Turkey  Vulture,  Cath- 
artes  aura  (Linn.)  ;  7.  Alaskan  Bald  Eagle,  Haliaetus  leuco- 
cephalus. 

The  Bird  House  has  a  number  of  outside  cages  on  the  southern 
side  containing:  (E.  to  W.)  Cage  i.  Condor,  Sarcoramphns  gryphus 
(Linn.);  Cage  2.  Australian  Crane,  Grus  australasianus  (Gould); 
Cage  3.  White-naped  Crane;  Cage  4.  Wild  Goose;  Cage  5.  Sandhill 
Crane,  Grus  mexicana;  Cage  6.  Crowned  Crane,  Bcdearica  pavonina 
(Linn.);  Cage  7.  Indian  White  Crane,  Grus  leucogeranus;  Cage  8.  Lil- 
ford's  Crane,  Grus  lilfordi;  Cage  9.  Doves  and  Pigeons;  Cage  10. 
Alaskan   Eagle. 

Inside  Cages.  Southwest  Side  (S.  to  N.) :  1.  Secretary  Vulture, 
Gypogeranus  secretarius  (Miller);  2.  Goliath  Heron,  Ardea  goliath; 
3.  Common  Rhea,  Rhea  americana  (Linn.) ;  4.  Sclater's  Cassowary, 
Casuarius  galeatus;  5.  Crowned  Crane,  Balearica  pavonina;  6.  Common 
Emu,  Dromaius  novae-hollandiae  (Latham);  7.  Somali  Ostrich.,  Struthic 
molybdophanes  (Richenow),  presented  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States  by  the  King  of  Abyssinia;  8.  Secretary  Vulture,  Gypogeranus 
secretaries  (Miller);  9.  Silver  Pheasant,  Euplocamus  nychtemerus 
(Linn.);  10.  King  Vulture,  Gypagus  papa  (Linn.);  11.  Hawaiian  Goose, 
Nesochen  sandvicensis;  12.  European  Raven,  Corvus  cora.x ;  13.  Aus- 
tralian Crow,  Gorvus  coronoides;  14.  Doves  and  Pigeons;  15.  Cage 
containing  a  large  variety  of  song-birds  and  other  small  birds,  including: 
Bob-white^  Colinus  virginianus  (Linn.);  Crimson-crowned,  Weaver  Bird, 
Pyromelana  Yammiceps  (Swainson) ;  Black-headed  Uun,  Munia  atricapilla; 
White  headed  Nun,  Munia  maja  (Linn.) ;  Pekin  Nightingale,  Liothrix 
Iuteus  (Scop.);  Spice  Bird,  Munia  punctulata;  Cardinal,  Cardinalis 
cardmali$  (Linn.);  Red-billed  Weaver  Bird,  Quelea  quelea  (Linn.); 
Paradise  Whydah-finch,  Steganura  paraduea  (Linn.) ;  Cut-throat  Weaver- 
finch,  Atnadina  fasciata  (Gmelin)  ;  Three  colored  Finch,  Munia  malacca 
(Linn.). 

North  Side  (N.  to  S.) :  Cages  1  to  20  contain  a  large  variety  of 
parrots,  parrakeets,  cockatoos,  macaws  and  allied  species.  Cage  21. 
Collection  of  small  birds  of  the  finiah  type,  26  species;  22.  Turtles; 
23.  Great  White  Heron,  Ardea  occi&entalis ;  24.  East  Indian  Gallinule, 
Porphyrio  calvus ;  2$.  White-backed  Trumpeter,  Psophia^  leucoptera; 
26.  Piping  Crow-Shrike,  Gymnorhina  tibican;  27.  Short-Winged  Weka, 
Ocydromus  bracypterus ;  29.  Giant  Kingfisher,  Dacelo  gigas ;  30.  South 
Island  Weka  Rail,  Ocydromus  australis;  31.  Satin  Bower  Bird..  Ptilcmi- 
rhynchus  violaceus;  32.  Kagu,  Rhynochetos  jubatus;  33.  King  Paroquet, 
Aprosmictus  cyanopygius;  34.  Boat  bill,  Cochlcarius  cochlearius;  35. 
Pennants  Paroquet,  Red-rumped  Paroquet,  Rosella  Paroquet;  36.  Cock 
of   the  Rock,  Rupicola  rupicola. 

Large  Cage  at  West  End:  a.  Snowy  Heron,  Ardea  candidissima 
(Gmelin) ;  b.  European  Flamingo,  Phoenicopterus  roseus;  c.  Australian 
Black  Duck,  Anas  superciliosa;  d.  American  Brown  Pelican,  Pelecanus 
fuscus  (Linn.);  e.  Whooping  Crane,  Grus  americanus  (Linn.);  f. 
Demoiselle  Crane,  Anthropoides1  virgo  (Linn.) ;  g.  Common  White  Stork, 
Ciconia  ciconia;  h.  Sacred  Ibis,  Ibis  aethiopica  (Latham)  ;  i.  Wbjte  Ibis, 
Guara  alba  (Linn.);  j.  Roseate  Spoonbill,  Ajaja  ajaja  (Linn.);  k. 
Eyton's  Tree  Duck,  Dendrocygna  eytoni;  1.  Anhinga  or  Snake  Bird, 
Anhinga  anhinga    (Linn.). 

Opposite  the  Bird  House  on  S.  W.  side  of  drive,  which 
here  curves  westward,  is  the  Small  Antelope  House,  con- 


452  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

taining  at  present  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  smaller  ani- 
mals. Like  the  Lion  House,  it  is  T-shaped,  with  central 
wing  extending  east. 

Cages  along  W.  wall  contain  (N.  to  S.) :  i.  Nilgai,  Boselaphus 
tragocamelus;  2.  Capybara,  Hydrochoerus  hydrochoeris;  3.  Blessbok, 
Damaliscus  albifrons;  4.  Young  Llama,  born  in  Zoo  iFeb.  19,  1922;  5. 
Yellow-footed  Rock  Wallaby,  Petrogale  xawthopus ;  6.  Rufous-bellied 
Wallaby,  Macropus  billardieri;  7.  Great  Gray  Kangaroo,  Macropus 
giganteus. 

East  Wall,  South  Section  (S.  to  N.) :  1.  Paca,  Cuniculus  paca;  2. 
Malay  Bear,  Melarctos  malayanus ;   3.    Capybara. 

East  Wing,  South  Wall  (W.  to  E.) :  1.  Brazilian  Ocelot,  Felis 
pardalis  braziliensis ;  2.  Indian  Antelope;  3.  Wallaroo,  Macropus  robustus; 
4.  Swamp  Wallaby;  5.  Kangaroo'  Island  Kangaroo,  Macropus  melanops; 
6.  Lechwe,  Kobus  leche ;  7.  Northern  Wart-Hog,  Phacochoerus  africanus. 

North  Wall  (E.  to  W.) :  1.  Wart-hog;  2.  Blessbok;  3.  and  4. 
Great  Red  Kangaroo,  Macropus  rufus;  5.  Trinidad  Brocket,  Mazamia 
simplicicornis ;  6.  Tasmanian  Devil,  Sarcophilus  ursinus;  7.  Striped 
Hyena,  H.   hyaena;  8.    Dusky   Phalanger,   Trichosurus  fullginosus. 

East  Wall,  North  Section  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Common  Phalanger,  Tricho- 
surus vulpecula;  2.  Gray  Coatimundi,  Nasua  narica;  3.  Brush-tailed  Rock 
Kangaroo,   Petrogale  penicillata    (Gray). 

Directly  N.  of  the  Small  Antelope  House  is  the  Old 
Elephant  House  (See  plan,  p.  445),  containing  two  young 
Sumatran  Elephants,  Elephas  sumatranus,  caught  wild  in  1918 
and  "purchased  for  the  children  of  Washington  by  60  friends." 
Just  beyond  is  the  Tapir  Pen,  containing  another  pair  of 
Brazilian  Tapirs,  interesting  for  having  stood  the  outdoor 
winter  weather  since  191 1.  Beyond  the  Tapirs  is  the  New 
Elephant  House  (See  plan,  p.  445),  originally  built  for 
"Dunk,"  an  Indian  Elephant,  presented  in  1891  by  the  Director 
of  the  Adams  Forepaugh  Circus,  and  the  first  animal  received 
by  the  "Zoo."  A  bronze  memorial  tablet  on  S.  wall,  erected 
by  the  children  of  Washington,  records  the  death  of  Dunk 
in  1917,  at  the  age  of  51.  The  building  now  houses  an  African 
Elephant,  Elephas  oxyotis. 

Back  of  these  buildings  are  several  small  cages  and  en- 
closures containing  respectively :  1.  Broad-winged  Hawk, 
Buteo  platypterus;  2.  Sparrow  Hawk,  Falco  sparverius  ;  3. 
Screech  Owl,  Otus  asio;  4.  Raccoon,  Procyon  lotor.  East  of 
these  and  north  of  the  main  Bird  House  is-  a  series  of  small 
out-door  cages  containing:  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  Kea  or  Mountain 
Parrot  Nestor  no tabilis,  a  sheep-killing  Parrot,  native  of  New 
Zealand,  which  tears  through  wool  and  skin  and  eats  the  fat 
around  the  kidneys  while  the  sheep  is  still  alive;  2.  Mexican 
Puma,  Felis  azteca;  3.  Canada  Lynx,  Lynx  canadensis;  4.-6. 
Bay  Lynx,  Lynx  ruffus;  7.  Snow  Leopard,  Felis  unria;  8. 
Plains  Wolf,  Canis  nubilus;  9.  Chacma  Baboon,  Papio  por- 
carins;    10.    Himalayan    Bear,     JJrsus     thibetanus;     II.    Wild 


THE  NATIONAL  ZOOLOGICAL  PARK  453 

Boar,  Sus  scrofa;  12.  Puma,  Felts  hippolestes,  from  Utah; 
13.  Puma  from  Southern  Arizona,  Felis  azteca. 

Continuing  N.  W.,  the  next  building  is  the  Zebra  House, 
containing:  1.  Grant's  Zebra,  Equus  burchelli  grantii; 
2.  *Zebra-horse,  Hybrid  "Juno" :  sire,  Grevy's  Zebra ;  and 
Morgan  mare;  3.  *Zelbra-ass,  Hybrid  from  male  Grevy's  and 
female  domestic  ass. 

Directly  W.  is  the  enclosure  occupied  at  present  by  Pea- 
cocks. North  is  the  small  circular  enclosure  containing: 
Prairie  Dogs,  Cynomys  liidoviliamts  (Ord.).  Adjoining  on  E. 
is  the  Rabbit  "Warren.  * 

Northwest  from  the  Zebra  House  are  Sheep  Pens 
(See  plan,  p.  445),  containing  at  present:  1.  Barbary  Sheep, 
Ammotragas  lervia;  2.  Cashmere  Deer,  Cerviis  hanglu;  3. 
Rocky  'Mountain  Sheep,  from  Banff,  Alberta  (gift  of  Cana- 
dian Government)  ;  4.  Livingstone's  Eland,  Taurotragus  oryx 
livingstonii,  presented  by  Duke  of  Bedford. 

To  reach  the  remaining  exhibits,  we  now  cross  the  drive- 
way and  proceed  westward  to  the  Llama  Pens,  at  which  point 
the  path  forks,  the  right  branch  following  the  curve  of  the 
Driveway  to  the  Jewett  St.  gate,  while  the  left  path  leads  to 
the  same  spot  in  an  almost  straight  line.  Following  the  curve 
of  the  R.  path  we  pass  the  following  exhibits :  1.  Llama, 
Lama  glama;  2.  Zebu,  Bos  indicus;  3.  Guanaco,  Lama  huana- 
chus;  4.  Arabian  Camel,  Camehis  dromedarias;  5.  Sambar  or 
Rusa  Deer,  Rusa  unicolor;  6.  Grevy's  Zebra,  "Jerry,"  sire  of 
the  two  hybrids  in  Zebra  House;  7.  Alpaca,  Lama  pacos; 
8.  Arizona  (Mountain  Sheep,  Ovis  canadensis;  9.  Tahr,  Hemi- 
t  rag  us  jemlahicus. 

Returning  to  the  fork  in  the  paths  we  may  now  follow 
the  L.  branch,  passing  on  R.  a  series  of  Deer  Ranges  con- 
taining the  following  species :  1.  Red  Deer,  Cervus  elaphus 
(Linn.)  ;  2.  Barasingha  or  Indian  Swamp  Deer,  Rucervus 
duvaucelii;  3.  Japanese  Deer,  Sika  nippon.  On  L.  in  the 
valley  below  these  Ranges,  are  three  large  Bird  Cages;  1. 
Aquatic  Birds,  including  White-faced  Tree  Duck,  Dendro- 
cygna  viduata;  Baikal  Teal,  Nettion  formosum;  Rosy-billed 
Pochard,  Metopiana  peposaca;  Garganey,  Qnerquedula  quer- 
quedula;  Mandarin  Duck,  Aix  galericulata;  2.  Large  Flying 
Cage,  used  as  summer  home  for  the  inmates  of  the  main  Bird 
House ;  3.  Smaller  Flying  Cage,  summer  home  for  Parrots, 
Macaws  and  Cockatoos. 

Southward  on  hillside  are  more  Deer  Ranges,  containing: 
1.  Fallow  Deer,  Dama  dama;   2.  Indian    Spotted   Deer,   Axis 


454  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

axis;   3.  White-tailed   or   Virginian   Deer,    Odocoileus  virgin- 
ianus;  4.  Mule  Deer,  Odocoileus  hemionus. 

Lastly,  just  before  reaching  the  Connecticut  Ave.  exit, 
we  pass  the  "extensive  Range  for  American  Bison,  a  herd 
numbering  approximately  17  head,  the  surplus  stock  of  which 
is  exchanged  to  other  parks  and  reservations.  Between  30 
and  40  calves  have  /been  born  in  the  park  herd. 

Rock  Creek  Park  (PI.  Ill — A2),  extending  from  Klingle 
Ford  Bridge  (the  N.  boundary  of  the  Zoological  Park)  to 
a  point  near  the  District  line,  constitutes  Washington's  largest 
public  park,  embracing  1606  acres  of  forest  and  stream,  hill 
and  valley.  Although  -this  territory  was  set  off  as  a  park  as  early 
as  1867,  in  a  map  prepared  by  the  Engineer  Corps  in  response 
to  a  Senate  Resolution,  no  further  action  was  taken  until  1889, 
when  fear  that  pollution  of  the  stream  might  cost  more  than 
the  price  of  the  land  involved  led  to  the  passage  of  an  Act 
for  purchase  of  the  territory.  By  the  terms  of  this  act,  ap- 
proved Sept.  27,  1890,  a  sum  of  $1,200,000  was  appropriated 
for  the  acquisition  of  a  tract  following  the  course  of  the  creek, 
of  a  width  nowhere  less  than  600  ft.  nor  more  than  1200  ft., 
wiith  a  total  area  not  to  exceed  2000  acres.  One-half  the  cost 
was  to  be  appropriated  from  the  Treasury  and  one-half  from 
the  revenues  of  the  District  of  Columbia. 

To  effect  the  purchase,  the  President  appointed  a  Com- 
mission including  among  others  the  Chief  of  Engineers, 
U.  S.  A.,  the  Engineer  Commissioner  of  the  District,  and 
Professor  Langley,  Secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 
After  a  long  delay  caused  by  dissatisfied  land  owners,  who 
carried  their  case  to  the  Supreme  Court,  the  desired  property 
was  at  last  acquired  at  a  total  cost  of  only  $1,174,511.45. 

"To  Rock  Creek  Park  there  is  nothing  comparable  in  any 
capital  city  of  Europe.  What  city  in  the  world  is  there  where 
a  man  .  .  .  can  within  a  quarter  of  an  hour  on  his  own 
feet  get  in  a  'beautiful  rocky  glen,  such  as  you  would  find  in 
the  woods  of  Maine  or  Scotland — a  winding  rocky  glen  with 
a  broad  stream  foaming  over  its  stony  bed,  and  wild  leafy 
woods  looking  down  on  each  side,  where  you  not  only  have 
a  carriage  road  at  the  bottom,  but  an  inexhaustible  variety  of 
foot-paths,  where  you  can  force  your  way  through  thickets 
and  test  your  physical  ability  in  scaling  the  faces  of  bold 
cliffs?"     (Viscount  James  Bryce). 

The  old  log  cabin,  for  many  years  occupied  by  Joaquin 
Miller,  "Poet  of  the  Sierras,"  was  some  years  ago  removed 
from  Meridian  Hill,  near  16th  St.,  to  Rock  Creek  Park,  near 
the  line  of  the  Military  Road. 


CATHEDRAL  OF  ST.  PETER  AND  ST.  PAUL    455 

VI.   The  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul 

The  Cathedral  Close  of  the  projected  *Cathedral 
Church  of  St.  Pf/ter  and  )St.  Paul  (PI.  Ill — Ci)  is  situated 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  N.  W.  of  the  United  States 
Naval  Observatory,  on  a  height  known  as  Mt.  Alban,  with 
its  main  entrance  on  Wisconsin  Ave.  The  Cathedral  Close 
may  be  most  conveniently  reached  by  taking  trolley  to  George- 
town and  then  transferring,  at  Wisconsin  Ave.  and  M  St., 
to  the  Tenleytown-Rockville  Line.  The  entrance  is  near  the 
intersection  oif   Wisconsin  and  Massachusetts   Aves. 

The  idea  of  a  great  National  Cathedral  for  all  people 
was,  according  to  Major  L'Enfant,  a  feature  of  Washington's 
original  scheme  for  the  Capital  city.  L'Enfant  defined  it  as 
"a  church  for  National  purposes,  such  as  public  prayer, 
thanksgiving,  funeral  orations,  etc,  and  to  be  assigned  to  the 
special  use  of  no  particular  denomination  or  sect;  but  to  be 
equally  open  to  all."  The  idea,  however,  was  abandoned,  and 
the  site  selected  is  to-day  occupied  by  the  Patent  Office.  By 
a  curious  coincidence,  the  land  finally  acquired  a  century 
later  once  belonged  to  Joseph  Nourse,  a  friend  of  Washing- 
ton, and  first  Registrar  of  the  Treasury,  who,  we  are  told, 
used  to  pray  "that  at  some  future  date  God  would  build  a 
church  on  Alban  Hill." 

Before  Joseph  Nourse  acquired  it,  Alban  Hill  formed  part  of 
Rosedale,  the  estate  of  Gen.  Uriah  Forrest,  First  Clerk  of  the  Court 
of  the  United  States  for  the  District  of  Columbia,  whose  daughter, 
Alice,   married   the  son   of   President   Yturbide  of   Mexico. 

The  tract  in  question,  about  60  acres  in  extent, 
is  a  wooded  height  some  400  feet  above  the  level  of 
lower  Pennsylvania  Ave.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
Woodley  Road,  on  the  W.  by  Wisconsin  Ave.  and  Garfield  St., 
and  by  the  extension  of  34th  St.  on  the  E.  It  slopes  into  a 
shallow  ravine  on  the  S.,  commanding  an  unrivalled  view 
of  the  capital  city.  The  vista  seen  through  All  Hallow's 
gate  has  been  compared  to  the  view  of  Florence  from  the 
Boboli  Gardens.  This  desirable  site  was  occupied  first  in  1845 
by  St.  John's  School  for  Boys,  and,  secondly,  in  1855,  by  St. 
Alban's  Free  Church,  the  first  free  Episcopal  church  in  the 
District. 

St.  Alban's  Church  and,  in  an  indirect  way,  the  Washington 
Cathedral,    owe    their    existence    to    the    modest   gift    of    Joseph    Nourse's 


CATHEDRAL  OF  ST.  PETER  AND  ST.  PAUL    457 

granddaughter,     Miss     Phoebe     Nourse,     who     left     by     will     forty     gold 
dollars   "for   a   free   church   on    Mount   Alban." 

The  charter  for  the  Washington  Cathedral  Foundation 
was  granted  by  Congress  in  1893.  Two  years  later 
the  Diocese  of  Washington  was  set  off  from  Maryland,  and 
in  1896  Dr.  Satterlee  was  consecrated  First  Bishop  of  Wash- 
ington. The  land  on  Mt.  Alban,  first  suggested  for  the  pro- 
posed Cathedral  of  Washington  in  1866,  was  purchased  in 
1898  for  $245,000. 

The  first  ceremony  was  the  erection  of  the  Peace  Cross, 
Oct.  23,  1898,  marking:  1.  The  close  of  the  war  with  Spain; 
2.  The  foundation  of  the  Cathedral  of  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul. 
There  were  about  7000  persons  present,  and  the  address  was 
made  by  President  McKinley.  On  Ascension  Day,  1906,  tool 
place  the  Hallowing  of  the  Cathedral  Close,  commemorated 
by  the  erection  of  a  Landmark  recording  the  final  payment 
of  the  purchase  money  for  the  land. 

The  following  month  a  committee  to  select  an  architect 
was  appointed,  consisting  of  D.  H.  Burnham  and  Charles  H. 
McKim,  of  the  "Park  Commission"  (p.  354),  and  Bernard  R. 
Green,  Sir  C.  Purdon  Clarke  and  Prof.  Moore,  of  Harvard. 
Their  unanimous  vote  resulted  in  the  selection  of  Henry 
Vaughan,  of  Boston,  and  Dr.  G.  F.  Bodley,  of  London.  The 
joint  plans  of  these  two  architects  were  accepted  in  June, 
1907.  Not  long  after  the  preliminary  drawings  were  made, 
Dr.  Bodley  died,  and  Mr.  Vaughan  continued  the  work  alone, 
until  his  death  on  June  30,  1917.  The  present  architects  are 
Froharjmn,  Robb  &  Little,  with  Cram  &  Ferguson  as  con- 
sulting architects. 

Since  the  Cathedral  has  advanced  only  so  far  as  com- 
pletion of  the  entire  foundation,  the  Apse,  and  the  Crypt  or 
Bethlehem  Chapel,  directly  beneath  it,  a  lengthy  description  of 
the  proposed  structure  would  here  be  out  of  place.  Briefly  stated,  the 
general  architectural  scheme  is  14th  century  English' Gothic,  a  style  which 
the  architects  characterize  in  their  report  as  "the  most  beautiful,  as 
we  think,  that  the  world  has  ever  seen."  In  dimensions  the  Cathedral 
will  compare  favorably  with  most  of  the  great  Cathedrals  of  Europe. 
Its  dimensions  will  be:  length  480  ft.;  breadth  132  ft.;  height  of  nave 
95  ft.;  span  of  nave  39  ft.  It  will  have  three  square  towers,  the  two 
smaller  ones  flanking  the  main  entrance  on  the  W.  facade,  while  above 
the  crossing  of  the  nave  and  transepts  will  rise  the  great  central  tower 
262  ft.  higgh.  Towers  have  been  chosen  in  place  of  spires  for  the  reason 
that  the  latter  "in  the  bright,  golden  sunshine  of  our  atmosphere  would 
appear  attenuated  and  indistinct."  An  illustrated  "Hand  book  of  Wash- 
ington Cathedral,"  containing  history  and  full  description,  may  be 
obtained  from  the  Verger,  price  25  c. 


458  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

The  Cathedral  Close  is  open  daily  to  the  public  from  sun- 
rise until  sunset;  the  buildings  are  open  for  inspection  except- 
ing during  the  hours  of  divine  service. 

The  visitor  entering  from  Wisconsin  Ave.  should  note 
to  W.  of  entrance  the  Braddock  Stone,  a  granite  boulder 
bearing  the  following  inscription : 

"This  memorial  was  erected  in  1907  by  the  Society  of  Colonial 
Wars,  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  to  mark  the  road  over  which  on 
April  14,  1755,  a  division  of  the  British  army  under  General  Braddock 
marched  on  its  way  to  Fort  Duquesne." 

Just  beyond,  on  L.,  is  the  quaint  old  Parish  Church  of  St. 
Albans,  much  modernized;  its  numerous  memorial  windows 
all  have  recent  dates.  Here,  in  1898,  the  remains  of  the 
Rt.  Rev.  Thomas  John  Claggett,  the  first  Bishop  consecrated 
on  American  soil,  were  temporarily  placed,  pending  completion 
of  the  Cathedral  Crypt,  where  they  now  lie;  and  at  the  same 
time  the  original  tombstones  of  Bishop  Claggett  and  Mary 
Claggett,  his  wife,  bearing  the  inscription  composed  by  Francis 
Scott  Key  were  set  in  the  Chancel  wall. 

The  small  dwelling  opposite  on  the  S.  is  the  Rectory. 
In  the  center  of  the  sloping  open  space  beyond,  toward  the 
E.,  stands  the  Peace  Cross,  an  Iona  cross  of  stone  20  feet  in 
height.  It  is  around  this  Cross  that  the  custom  of  Sunday 
open-air  services  has  been  established,  and  such  are  the  natural 
acoustic  properties  of  the  spot  that  25,000  persons  can  hear 
every  word  of  the  service  and  sermon.  For  the  purpose  of 
these  services  the  base  of  the  Cross  has  been  extended  on 
the  W.  side  into  a  sort  of  pulpit,  its  inlaid  pavement  consist- 
ing of  stones  from  the  Holy  Land,  the  central  stone  bearing 
the  word  "Salem,"  signifying  Peace.  Beyond  the  Peace  Cross 
is  the  Landmark,  commemorating  the  freedom  of  the  Cathe- 
dral land  from  debt  and  bearing  on  its  surface  a  sundial  so 
constructed  as  to  mark  the  different  seasons  of  the  Christian 
year.  To  the  R.  stands  a  quaint  little  Gothic  structure,  con- 
sisting of  the  Little  Sanctuary  or  chapel  of  the  Boys'  school, 
and  a  gateway  known  as  All  Hallow's  Gate,  leading  to  the 
Choir  school  for  boys. 

The  *Little  Sanctuary  contains  a  number  of  highly 
prized  relics  and  gifts. 

1.  The  Jerusalem  Altar,  the  joint  gift  of  various  Amer- 
ican dioceses  and  congregations  (see  bronze  tablet  on  opposite 
wall).  The  stones  of  which  the  altar  is  made  are  limestone 
rock  from  the  so-called  "Quarries  of  Solomon,"  the  entrance 
to  which  is  just  outside  the  Damascus  Gate  of  Jerusalem;  2. 
the  Glastonbury  Cathedra,  made  of  stones  from  Glastonbury 


CATHEDRAL  OF  ST.  PETER  AND  ST.  PAUL  459 

Abbey  in  England,  an  ancient  Abbey  which  once  bore  the 
name  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  and  which,  according  to  tra- 
dition, was  founded  by  Joseph  of  Arimathea;  3.  The  Book  of 
Remembrance  and  the  Hilda  Stone.  The  Book  of  Remem- 
brance, containing  the  names  of  the  benefactors  of  the  Cathe- 
dral, is  enclosed  in  a  stone  receptacle  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Chancel,  and  the  top  stone  closing  this  receptacle  comes  from 
the  ancient  Abbey  of  St.  Hilda  at  Whitby,  England;  4.  The 
Iona  Stone,  a  gift  from  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Argyle  and  the 
Isles.  It  comes  from  the  choir  of  the  ancient  Iona  Cathedral, 
founded  A.  D.  565  by  St.  Columba,  whose  dying  words  are 
inscribed  upon  the  stone :  "They  who  seek  the  Lord  shall 
want  no  manner  of  thing  that  is  good" ;  5.  The  Canterbury 
Ambon,  or  stone  pulpit,  made  of  stones  from  Canterbury 
Cathedral,  England.  The  Ambon  is  10  feet  high  and,  inclusive 
of  the  stone  steps,  about  14  feet  in  length.  At  its  angles  are 
four  statuettes  representing  the  four  men  most  closely  asso- 
ciated with  the  ^history  of  the  English  Bible:  y.  King  Alfred 
the  Great;  2.  John  Wycliffe;  3.  Lancelot  Andrews,  Bishop  of 
Winchester,  most  prominent  translator  of  the  King  James 
version ;  4.  Westcott,  Bishop  of  Durham,  one  of  the  leaders 
in  producing  the  revised  version. 

Between  these  figures  are  three  has-reliefs  representing 
from  L.  to  R. :  1.  The  Venerable  Bede  dictating  on  his  death- 
bed his  translation  of  the  Gospel  of  St.  John ;  2.  Archbishop 
Stephen  Langton  handing  the  Magna  Charta  to  King  John 
for  his  signature ;  3.  The  marytrdom  of  William  Tyndale. 
In  a  frieze  above  these  sculptures  are  recorded  the  names  and 
dates  of  the  principal  English  versions  of  the  Bible. 

6.  The  Altar  Paintings.  The  four  Altar  paintings  in  the 
Chancel  of  the  Little  Sanctuary  represent,  respectively,  St. 
Matthew,  St.  Mark,  St.  Luke  and  St.  Andrew  (Edward  Sat- 
terlee,  artist)  ;  they  were  originally  placed  in  the  Sanctuary 
of  Calvary  Chapel,  New  York  City. 

The  National  Cathedral  School  for  Boys,  in  the  S.  W. 
cor.  of  the  Cathedral  Close,  was  established  by  a  bequest  of 
$300,000  by  Mlrs.  Harriet  Lane-Johnston,  niece  of  President 
Buchanan,  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  a  building  to  be 
known  as  the  Lane-Johnston  building  in  memory  of  her  two 
sons  who  died  in  boyhood.  The  special  purpose  of  the  bequest, 
as  explained  in  Mrs.  Lane-Johnston's  will,  "while  not  restrict- 
ing the  general  objects  of  said  school,"  is  to  provide  for  the 
free  maintenance,  education  and  training  of  choir  boys,  pri- 
marily for  those  in  the  service  of  the  Cathedral.    The  corner- 


4<5o  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

stone  of   the   Boys'    school   was   laid   in    1905,   and   the   school 
opened  Oct.  7,  1909. 

The  visitor  retracing  his  steps  northward  past  the  Peace 
Cross  continues  between  St.  Alban's  Ohuroh  on  the  L.  and 
the  recently  erected  Bishop's  House  on  the  R.,  known  as  the 
Mabel  Murray  Memorial,  and  turning  to  the  E.,  reaches  the 
Baptistry,  containing  the  ^Jordan  Font.  This  building  is-  a 
temporary  structure,  erected  to  protect  the  costly  and  beauti- 
ful Font  from  injury,  and  also  to  enable  it  to  be  used  when 
required.  The  permanent  Baptistry  will  form,  part  of  the 
Cathedral  structure,  and  will  adjoin  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  the 
Nave.  The  Font,  15  feet  in  diameter,  is  one  of  the  few 
Baptismal  Fonts  that  have  been  built  since  the  rise  of  Chris- 
tian art  of  sufficient  size  to  allow  for  immersion,  and  testifies 
to  the  right  of  every  Christian  to  have  this  sacrament  admin- 
istered by  immersion  as  well  as  by  pouring. 

The  Font,  octagonal  in  shape,  is  wrought  from  pure 
white  Carrara  marble.  In  the  center  stands  the  figure  of  the 
risen  Christ,  holdiug  on  his  left  arm  a  little  child,  symbolizing 
his  command  to  St.  Peter :  "Feed  my  lambs."  The  interior 
of  the  Font  is  lined  with  stones  gathered  from  the  River 
Jordan  in  1903,  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  ^Herbert  E.  Clark, 
U.  S.  vice-consul  at  Jerusalem. 

The  eight  exterior  panels  of  the  Font  contain  bas-reliefs 
recording  the  principal  events  in  the  life  of  Christ,  in  the 
following  order:  a.  The  Nativity;  b.  The  Baptism;  c.  The 
calling  of  the  Apostles;  d.  The  Crucifixion;  e.  The  Resurrec- 
tion; f.  The  Ascension ;  g.  The  Day  of  Pentecost;  h.  The 
coming  of  Christ  to  ransom  his  own  at  the  Judgment  Day. 
Eight  apostolic  figures  stand  at  the  respective  corners  of  the 
octagon,  and  with  one  exception  (namely,  St.  Jude)  include 
all  the  writers  of  the  New  Testament :  a.  St.  Peter  ;  b.  St.  Paul ; 
c.  St.  John ;  d.  Joseph  of  Arimathea  (who  gave  his  sepulchre 
for  the  entombment  of  Christ)  ;  e.  St.  James  of  Jerusalem ;  f . 
St.  Mark;  g.  St.  Matthew;  h.  St.  Luke.  At  present  an  iron 
screen  prevents  the  visitor  from  making  a  complete  tour  of 
the  Font  without  special  permission. 

The  site  of  the  Cathedral  lies  almost  due  E.  At  present 
the  only  completed  portion  is  the  **Bethlehem  Chapel, 
situated  in  the  crypt  directly  beneath  the  Apse  of  the 
Cathedral.  This  chapel  has  been  pronounced  one  of  the  most 
perfect  adaptations  of  14th  century  Gothic  to  the  purposes  of 
crypt  architecture  that  have  been  executed  in  modern  times. 
It  should  be  noted  that  the  main  axis  of  the  Cathedral  does  not 


CATHiEDlRlAL  OF  ST.  PETER  AND  ST.  PAUL    461 

lie  directly  E.  and  W.,  but  at  a  slight  angle,  chosen  so  that 
the  rays  of  the  rising  sun  will  enter  the  east  windows  on 
the  traditional  day  of  Christ's  Ascension,  May  4th.  Beneath 
the  pavement  lie  the  remains  of  Rt.  Rev.  Thomas  John 
Claggett,  D.D.,  consecrated  Bishop  of  Maryland  at  Trinity 
Church,  New  York,  Sept.  17,  1792,  being  the  first  Bishop 
of  any  Christian  body  to  be  consecrated  on  American  soil. 
Immediately  E.  of  Altar  is  the  tomb  of  Henry  Yates  Satterlee, 
1843-1908,  who  was  consecrated  in  1896  first  Bishop  of  Wash- 
ington. The  tomb  is  of  English  alabaster,  designed  by 
W.  D.  Caroe,  London. 

The  first  object  which  commands  the  visitor's  attention 
upon  entering  is  the  Altar,  with  its  finely  carved  Reredos. 
This  Altar  is  erected  directly  above  the  Foundation  Stone 
of  the  Cathedral.  This  stone  was  quarried  in  a  field  adjacent 
to  the  Church  of  the  Nativity  in  Bethlehem  and  is  inscribed 
with  the  text,  "The  Word  was  made  flesh  and  dwelt  among 
us." 

The  central  panel  of  the  Reredos  represents  the  Nativity 
of  Christ ;  to  R.  and  L.  of  this  panel  are  figures  representing 
the  four  Evangelists,  St.  Matthew,  St.  Mark,  St.  Luke  and 
St.  John.  Surrounding  the  Reredos  is  a  border  representing 
the  conventionalized  "Holy  Thorn  of   Glastonbury." 

The  chapel  contains  a  number  of  richly  colored  windows 
made  by  Kempe  &  Co.,  England.  The  subjects,  beginning  on 
the  N.  side,  are  as  followis:  1.  The  Old  Testament  prophecies 
of  the  Messiah,  comprising  the  Prophet  Micah  and  the 
Prophet  Isaiah,  each  with  their  words  of  prophecy.  Between 
these  two  figures  is  the  genealogy  of  the  Christ  as  given  in 
the  Gospel  according  to  Luke ;  2.  The  "Gloria  in  Excelsis" 
window,  showing  the  Angel  appearing  to  the  Shepherds  ;  3. 
The  "Ave  Maria"  window,  representing  the  Annunciation ;  4. 
The  Epiphany  window,  representing  the  Adoration  of  the 
Wise  Men;  5.  The  "Nunc  Dimittis"  window,  showing  the 
Presentation  in  the  Temple.  The  light  over  the  N.  door 
represents  the  Visit  of  the  Virgin  Mary  to  St.  Elizabeth,  and 
that  over  the  S.  door  represents  the  Naming  of  St.  John  the 
Baptist. 

In  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  the  grounds  is  situated  the  National 
Cathedral  School  for  Girls,  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Phoebe  A.  Hearst. 
The  cornerstone  of  this  building,  laid  in  1899,  is  inscribed 
with  these  words:  "For  Christ  and  His  children.  That  our 
daughters  may  be  as  the  polished  corners  of  the  Temple." 


462  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

VII.    Georgetown 

Historic  ^Georgetown  (PI.  Ill — Di),  now  legally  a  part  of 
Washington,  lying  on  the  W.  bank  of  Rock  Creek,  comprises 
approximately  the  territory  bounded  by  the  Potomac  River  on 
the  S.,  T  St.  on  the  N.  and  the  grounds  of  Georgetown 
College  on  the  W.  Reached  by  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  F 
St.  Lines. 

History.  Georgetown  (originally  written  George-Town) 
was  created  by  an  Act  of  the  General  Assembly  of  Maryland 
which,  in  1751,  authorized  five  duly  appointed  Commissioners 
to  lay  out  a  town  on  the  Potomac  River,  above  the  mouth 
of  Rock  Creek.  The  original  sixty-acre  tract  selected  by  the 
Commissioners  formed  part  of  a  patent  of  705  acres,  called 
the  "Rock  of  Dumbarton,"  issued  November  18th,  1703  by 
Henry  Darnell,  "Keeper  of  the  Great  Seal  of  the  State  of 
Maryland,"  to  Col.  Ninian  Beall   (p.  471). 

Georgetown  obviously  did  not  owe  its  name  to  George  Washington, 
then  a  lad  of  nineteen,  nor  is  there  evidence  that  it  was  so  called  in 
honor  of  King  George  of  England.  The  original  sixty  acres  were  the 
property  of  two  Georges;  namely,  George  Beall  and  George  Gordon. 
But  if,  as  has  been  suggested,  the  town  was  named  after  them,  it  was 
an  undeserved  honor,  since  their  refusal  to  sell  forced  the  Commis- 
sioners to  condemn  the  land,  which  was  appraised  at  280  pounds  cur- 
rency. The  offer  of  this  sum,  together  with  the  privilege  of  selecting 
two  lots  each,  was  eventually  accepted,  although  Beall  did  so  under 
protest: 

"My  acceptance  of  said  lots,  which  is  by  force,  shall  not  debar 
me  from  future  redress  from  the  Commissioners  or  others,  if  I  can 
have  the  rights  of  a  British  subject.  I  ask  no  more.  God  save  King 
George." 

The  original  sixty  acres  constituted  the  limits  of  George- 
town for  upward  of  thirty  years,  after  which  came,  in  rapid 
succession:  1.  Beall's  Addition  (1783),  61  acres;  2.  The 
Beatty,  Threlkelt  and  Deakin's  Addition  (1785),  20  acres; 
3.  Beall's  Second  Addition  (1789). 

Georgetown  was  incorporated  December  25th,  1789.  The 
first  three  Mayors  were:  IRbibert  Peter  (p.  239),  Thomas 
Beall  and  Uriah  Forrest ;  the  early  Aldermen  included :  Dr. 
Charles  Worthington,  a  friend  of  Washington,  and  Thomas 
Corcoran,  father  of  William  W.  Corcoran. 

At  the  time  of  the  establishment  of  the  District  of  Columbia  the 
only  built-up  centers  within  or  near  its  limits  were:  1.  The  comparatively 
remote  Alexandria  (p.  512);  2.  The  sleepy  old  village  of  Bladensburg 
(p.  414),  lying1  just  outside  the  boundary  line;  3.  Georgetown,  a  place 
already  of  considerable  importance  both  socially  and  financially,  being 
a  thriving  port  of  entry,  constituting  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Potomac;  while  its  local  aristocracy  represented  some  of  the  best 
blood    of    Maryland    and    Virginia.      It    naturally    followed    that    during 


GEORGETOWN  463 

the  creation  of  the  National  Capital  in  the  midst  of  woods  and  marshes, 
Georgetown  became  the  social  center  of  official  and  diplomatic  circles, 
and  for  many  years  afterwards  maintained  its  prestige.  Here  for  the 
first  decade,  members  of  Congress  chose  to  reside,  making  the  daily 
trip  to  the  Capitol  through  the  moid  of  K  St.  Many  foreign  Ministers 
kept  their  residence  in  Georgetown  throughout  the  first  quarter  of  the 
19th   century. 

In  1871  the  original  charter  of  Georgetown  was  re- 
pealed by  an  Act  of  Congress,  whidk  established  a  Muni- 
cipal Government  for  the  entire  District,  but  provided  that 
all  that  portion  within  the  original  limits  should  continue  to 
be  known  as  the  "City  of  Georgetown."  This  provision  was 
cancelled  by  an  Act  of  1895,  directing  that  the  title  and  exist- 
ence of  Georgetown  as  a  separate  and  independent  city  by 
law  should  be  abolished,  and  that  the  nomenclature  of  the 
streets  and  numbering  of  the  squares  should  be  made  to  con- 
form, so  far  as  was  practicable,  with  the  system  in  force 
in  Washington. 

Although  Georgetown  covers  little  more  than  a  square  mile,  the 
points  of  interest  are  so  widely  scattered  that  to  include  them  all  in  a 
single  visit  involves  a  walk  of  at  least  four  miles.  If  time  permits, 
it  is  preferable  to  make  two  separate  trips,  taking  in1  Oak  Hill  Cem- 
etery and  Georgetown  Heights  the  first  day,  and  the  southern  section, 
including  Georgetown  College,  on  the  next.  The  following  itinerary, 
however,  has  been  planned  to  cover  all  the  principal  sights  in  one  day. 

a.     M    Street  and  the  "Court  End" 

M  Street  (formerly  Bridge  St.)  is  reached  by  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  trolley  line,  at  28th  St.,  one  block  W.  of  Rock 
Creek  Bridge.  It  is  a  typical  main  street  of  a  third-rate  town, 
lined  with  cheap  shops  and  saloons,  interspersed  with  junk 
yards,  a  public  market,  some  local  banks  and  a  pretentious 
Union  Railway  Station.  On  the  south,  the  Chesapeake  and 
Ohio  Canal  intersects  the  heart  of  the  negro  quarter.  It  is 
difficult  to-day  for  a  stranger  to  visualize  the  aristocratic 
Georgetown  of  a  century  ago,  before  the  canal  existed. 

"In  1776  the  fashionable  part  of  the  town  was/  below  Bridge  St.; 
there  beauty  and  wit  reigned,  the  upper  part  of  the  town  being  woods. 
During  President  Jefferson's  time  Sir  Augustus  Foster,  the  British 
Minister,  writes  there  is  no  lack  of  handsome  ladies  for  the  balls  in 
Georgetown,  and  asserts  he  never  saw  prettier  girls  anywhere.  Cherry 
Alley,  with  its  narrow,  winding  streets,  was  the  court  end  of  the  town. 
The  quaint  two-story  houses  were  built  of  brick  brought  from  Eng- 
land, and  had  sloping  roofs  and  queer  shaped  gables,  with  rows  of 
dormer  windows,  where  the  housekeeper  delighted  in  sunning  her  pre- 
serves and  pickles,  of  which  the  boys  in  the  neighborhood  uninvited 
would  enjoy  a  sample  every  now  and  then.  Many  a  taste  did  Francis 
Scott   Key   have   of   these    same   preserves.      In    Cherry   Alley   lived    the 


464  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

To-day  there  is  little  to  attract  the  general  visitor  S.  of 
M  St.;  but  the  lover  of  the  picturesque  will  find  himself  re- 
paid by  a  ramble  along  the  canal,  and  through  the  quaint  and 
dilapidated  back  alleys.  The  tracks  and  freight  yards  of  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.  R.  have  taken  possession  of  K  St., 
and  swept  away  most  of  its  ancient  landmarks ;  but  W.  of 
Wisconsin  Ave.  the  old  order,  in  part,  remains,  and  historic 
Cherry  Alley,  although  encroached  upon  by  factories  and 
tenements,   still  survives. 

•On  M  St.,  No.  2921-29,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  30th  St.  (formerly 
Washington  St.)  is  the  old  Union  Hotel,  known  also  as  "Union 
Tavern."  The  original  building  was  erected  in  1796  and 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1832.  It  was  rebuilt  in  1836.  Notable 
guests  of  the  house  have  included  Mr.  Murray,  the  first  Brit- 
ish Minister  to  this  country;  Louis  Philippe,  Count  Volney, 
Baron  von  Humboldt,  Talleyrand,  Jerome  Bonaparte,  Wash- 
ington Irving  and  John  Randolph.  It  was  a  favorite  stopping 
place  for  Congressmen  in  the  early  20's.  It  has  been  re- 
modeled in  recent  years,  but  a  large  part  of  the  building  still 
dates  from  1836.  Opposite,  on  S.  E.  cor.,  is  the  site  of  the 
Old  Presbyterian  Church,  the  earliest  church  built  in  George- 
town (1783),  which  stood  here  until  1879  when  it  moved  into 
a  modern  edifice  on  P  St.  (formerly  West  St.),  and  was  re- 
christened  the  West  Street  Presbyterian  Church. 

The  first  pastor  was  the  Rev.  Stephen  Bloomer  Balch,  whose  pas- 
torate extended  over  fifty-three  years,  until  his  death  in  1833,  when  all 
the  houses  in  town  were  draped  in  mourning,  and  places  of  business 
closed.  He  and  his  three  wives  were  originally  interred  in  the  old 
churchyard,  and  until  recently  one  of  the  curiosities  pointed  out  to 
visitors  was  an  old  tombstone  inscribed  to  two  of  them:  "Elizabeth 
first,    and    Elizabeth    second." 

Among  those  who  worshipped  at  this  church  were:  George  Wash- 
ington, Thomas  Jefferson  and  Albert  Gallatin,  all  of  whom  contributed 
to  the  enlargement  of  the   edifice. 

One  square  N.  on  Washington  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Gay 
St.  (now  N  St.)  formerly  stood,  facing  each  other,  two 
famous  old  schools,  the  Rodger's  Classic  Academy,  and  the 
Young  Ladies'  Seminary,  conducted  for  many  years  by  Miss 
Lydia  English. 

The  former  numbered  among  its  pupils,  Reverdy  Jornson,  William 
Wirt  and  Parke  Custis.  And  it  was  here  that  Washington  is  said  to 
have  passed  a  sleepless  night  trying  to  console  his  home-sick  step- 
grandson.  Among  the  pupils  in  Miss  English's  school  were  Jessie, 
daughter  of  Senator  Thomas  Benton,  who  later  eloped  with  John  C. 
Fremont  (p.  133),  and  Harriet  Williams,  whose  early  marriage  to 
the  middle-aged  Russian  Minister,  Baron  de  Bodisco,  was  the  biggest 
social  event  in  Georgetown  annals   (p.  470). 


GEORGETOWN  465 

A  few  doors  W.  on  N  St.,  No.  3017,  was  the  residence 
of  Newton  W.  Baker  while  Secretary  of  War. 

Westward  from  30th  St.,  on  M  St.,  we  reach,  No.  3<>49> 
the  Headquarters  of  George  Washington,  a  quaint  old  2}4- 
story  structure,  massively  built  of  irregular  stone  blocks,  now 
occupied  by  a  sign  painter. 

Here,  according  to  tradition,  General  Braddock  met  Georgt  Wash- 
ington when,  in  1755,  he  landed  in  Georgetown.  In  this  same  build- 
ing the  "Georgetown  Blues"  were  organized  by  Washington  to  aid  the 
English  in  the  French  and  Indian  Wars.  Here,  in  1791.  were  Wash- 
ington's headquarters  while  surveying  the  District  of  Columbia;  and 
here  also  was  the  office  of  Major  Charles  L'Enfant)  while  making  his 
plan   of   the   City   of   Washington. 

Diagonally  opposite,  south  on  Jefferson  St.,  E.  side,  still 
stands,  No.  1047,  the  house  occupied  by  Thomas  Jefferson 
while  Secretary  of  State.  A  huge  advertisement  of  a  popular 
chewing-gum  covering  the  entire  N.  wall,  makes  it  a  conspicu- 
ous object. 

Continuing  N.  on  M  St.,  past  31st  St.  (formerly  Congress  St.), 
we  reach  Wisconsin  Ave.  (formerly  High  St.).  Here,  at  N.  W.  cor., 
George  Peabody,  the  millionaire  philanthropist,  started  in  business  as 
a  clerk  in  a  drug  store   (see  p.  472). 

South  from  M  St.  on  Wisconsin  Ave.,  at  the  N.  W.  cor. 
of  the  canal  bridge,  is  a  small  monument  commemorating  the 
completion  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  (begun  July 
4th,  1828,  finished  October  10th,  1850;  Benjamin  Wright,  chief 
engineer).  South  of  bridge,  on  E.  side  of  Wisconsin  Ave., 
stands  the  P.  E.  Grace  Church,  very  nearly  marking  the  site 
of  the  historic  Sitter's  Tavern,  consisting  of  two  low  wooden 
buildings  with  slanting  roof  and  wide  porch.  It  was  kept 
by  a  southerner,  John  Suter,  and  later  by  his  widow.  Here, 
on  March  30th,  1791,  the  owners  of  the  land  comprised  with- 
in the  original  City  of  Washington,  met  George  Washington 
and  vested  in  two  trustees  the  title  to  this  land.  Here  also  met 
the  Commissioners,  Gen.  Thomas  Johnson,  Dr.  David  Stuart 
and  Daniel  Carroll,  September  gth,  1791,  and  agreed  that  the 
territory  selected  should  be  named  the  "City  of  Wellington." 

Historic  Cherry  Alley  (p.  463)  may  be  reached  by  turning  W. 
diagonally  opposite  Grace  church,  down  a  lane  through  rear  gardens, 
then  N.  up  a  steep  embankment.  All  that  remains  of  the  old  aristocratic 
section  is  a  short  row  of  two-story  brick  buildings  on  N.  side,  occupied 
by  negroes. 

Continuing  W.  on  M  St.,  we  pass  No.  3221,  the  house  in 
which  Dr.  William  Thornton  (p.  51)  resided,  1792-95;  it 
is  now  occupied  by  a  watch-maker's  shop. 

Spanning  the  river  to  Rosslyn,  from  the  foot  of  35th  St.  is 
the  new  Francts  Scott  Key  Memorial  Bridge,  authorized  by 
a  bill  approved  May  20,  1916.    N.  C.  Wyeth,  architect. 


466  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


The  Francis  Scott  Key  Home,  which  formerly  stood  on 
M  St.,  near  Aqueduct  Bridge,  has  been  recently  demolished 
to  make  room  for  the  N.  end  of  this  memorial  bridge. 
Here  Key  lived,  1808-28;  here  all  his  ten  children  were  born. 
From  here  he  began  the  journey  under  flag  of  truce,  to  ask 
release  of  a  civilian  friend  confined  on  the  British  warship 
Minden.  Lord  Cockburn  had  just  made  plans  to  attack  Fort 
McHenry,  and  Key  was  kept  prisoner  until  after  the  bom- 
bardment. The  fact  that;  the  American  flag  was  still  flying 
over  the  Fort  at  daybreak  was  the  inspiration  of  the  "Star 
Spangled  Banner." 

From  Aqueduct  Bridge  at  36th  St.,  the  further  bank  of 
the  canal  may  be  reached,  from  which  a  picturesque  view 
may  be  had  of  Georgetown  University  on  the  heights  above 
(p.  467).  This  bridge  very  nearly  marks  the  site  of  old 
Georgetown  Ferry  and  the  wharves  from  which  richly  laden 
vessels  used  to  sail  to  the  Indies.  Half  a  mile  W.,  along  the 
canal,  is  the  site  of  the  Foxhall  Foundry  (p.  202),  where  the 
cannon  for  the  War  of  1812  were  made.  Qf  this  century- 
old  structure  some  of  the  foundation  walls  are  still  standiing, 
on  which  has  been  erected  a  marble  slab  inscribed  with  the 
Ten  Commandments. 

Opposite  the  bridge,  at  36th  and  M  Sts.,  is  the  Georgetown 
Union  Station,  terminus  of  the  Washington  and  Old  Dom- 
inion Railway,  and  of  the  various  city  trolley  lines.  The 
station  is  three  stories  in  height,  the  upper  story  facing  on 
Prospect  Ave.,  at  top  of  bluff  (reached  by  stairway  of  75 
steps).  Opposite,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  Prospect  and  36th  Sts., 
still  stands,  though  badly  weather-beaten,  Prospect  Cottage, 
former  home  of  the  prolific  novelist,  Mrs.  E.  D.  E.  N.  South- 
worth. 

East  on  Prospect  Ave.,  at  S.  W.  cor.  of  35th  St.,  is  the 
stately  old  Steele-Morris  House,  now  fast  going  to  decay. 
Here  died  in  1875,  in  the  home  of  his  father-in-law,  Franklin 
Steele,  Commodore  George  Upham  Morris,  son  of  Commo- 
dore Charles  Morris,  and  Commanding  Officer  of  the  Cum- 
berland, which  was  sunk  with  colors  flying  by  the  Confed- 
erate ironclad  Merrimac  "after  the  most  desperate  battle  ever 
fought  on  shipboard."  In  recent  years  Commodore  Morris' 
widow  made  an  historic  fight  against  the  Capital  Traction 
Co.,  whose  blasting  operations  for  the  erection  of  their 
Union  Station  threatened  the  ruin  of  her  home  and  finally 
compelled  her  to  abandon  it. 

Diagonally  opposite,  on  the  N.  E.  cor.,  stands  the  Wor- 
thington-Kearney  house,   dating   from  the    18th   century,   and 


GEORGETOWN  COLLEGE  467 

still  in  fine  preservation.  It  was  originally  the  home  of 
Dr.  Charles  and  Dr.  Nicholas  Worthington,  two  noted  physi- 
cians in  the  early  days  of  Georgetown.  Here,  George 
Washington  was  a  not  infrequent  visitor.  Subsequently  the 
house  came  into  possession  of  James  Kearney,  an  Army 
Officer. 

North  on  35th  St.,  on  W.  side,  at  cor.  of  N  St.,  is  the 
Georgetown  University  Hospital.  Turning  W.  on  N  St. 
we  pass,  at  N.  E.  cor.  of  36th  St.,  Trinity  (R.  C.)  Church 
of  Georgetown,  established  1795.  The  present  edifice  was 
erected  in  1849-50.  In  the  rear,  on  N  St.,  the  Trinity  Paro- 
chial School  occupies  the  site  of  the  original  church  building. 
Continuing  one  block  N.  to  O  St.,  then  one  block  W.  we 
reach  the  main  entrance  to   Georgetown   College. 

b.     Georgetown  College 

♦Georgetown  College  (iPl.  Ill — Di),  constituting  one  of 
the  four  great  divisions  of  Georgetown  University,  is  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  Georgetown  Heights  overlooking  the  Poto- 
mac River,  in  grounds  comprising  78  acres,  a  large  part  of  which 
is  occupied  by  the  "Walks",  the  woodland  scenery  of  which 
has  long  been  locally  famous. 

The  main  gate  fronts  on  37th  St.,  north  of  N  St.  Reached 
by  Georgetown  cars  on  either  F  St.  or  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
lines.     Time,  about  twewnty-five  minutes  from  9th  St. 

History.  Georgetown  University  owes  its  origin  to  the  Rev.  John 
Carroll  (later  first  Archbishop  of  Baltimore)  who,  in  1785,  formed 
and  proposed  to  his  associates  a  plan  to  "establish  an  academy  at 
Georgetown,  Potowmak  River,  Maryland,"  to  be  opened  to  students 
of  "every  Religious  Profession."  The  plan  was  adopted  in  1786  by 
the  Corporation  of  Roman  Catholic  Clergymen,  which  at  the  same  time 
directed  a  sale  of  a  parcel  of  land  to  defray  the  cost  of  the  first  school 
building.  The  erection  of  this  building  was  begun  in  1788;  and  the 
first  students  were  received  in  1791.  In  1805  Georgetown  College 
was  transferred  to  the  Fathers  of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  under  whose 
control    and    direction   the    University    still   remains. 

An  Act  of  Congress,  passed  in  18 15,  conferred  upon  the  College  the 
power  of  granting  any  degree  in  Arts,  Science  and  Liberal  profes- 
sions "to  which  persons  are  usually  admitted  in  other  Colleges  or 
Universities  in  the  United  States."  In  1833  the  College  received  the 
power  to  confer,  in  the  name  of  the  Holy  See,  the  degrees  in  Philosophy 
and  Theology.      In    1842  the   institution  was   formally   incorporated. 

Georgetown  University  at  present  consists  of  four  de- 
partments, one  in  Georgetown,  and  the  other  three  more 
centrally  located  in  Washington.  These  comprise :  1.  The 
College  (on  Georgetown  Heights),  consisting  of  three  dis- 
tinct departments :  a.  The  Undergraduate  School,  dating 
from  1791;  b.  The  Graduate  School,  1856;  c.  The  Astronomi- 


468  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

cal  Observatory,  founded  1848.  2.  The  School  of  Medicine, 
opened  185 1  (p.  149)  ;  3.  The  School  of  Law,  opened  1870 
(p.  140)  ;  4.  The  School  of  Dental  Surgery,  opened  1901. 
In  1909  the  Seismic  Station  was  added  to  the  Georgetown 
group.  Closely  associated  with  the  Medical  School  (H  St., 
between  9th  and  10th  Sits.)  is  the  University  Hospital  in 
Georgetown,  at  which  most  of  the  clinical  instruction  is  given. 

In  19 16  the  matriculated  students  in  the  University  nuinbei'ed 
1305,  distributed  as  follows:  Georgetown  College  209;  Medical  School 
54;  Dental  School,  118;  Law  School,  924.  Among  the  students  are 
representatives  from  every  state  and  territory,  with  the  exception  of 
New  Mexico,  Indian  Territory,  Hawaii  and  Alaska.  The  26  foreign 
students  are  distributed  between  16  countries,  including  Greece,  Brazil, 
China  and  Japan. 

The  College  buildings  are  at  present  ten  in  number,  most 
of  which,  including  the  oldest,  the  "North  Building",  have 
been  ingeniously  gathered  together  into  one  comprehensive 
structure  surrounding  the  college  quadrangle,  and  present- 
ing an  aggregate  frontage  of  nearly  1,200  ft.  The  exterior 
of  the  whole  building,  as  it  now  stands,  is  constructed  of 
a  fine  variety  of  Gneiss  from  the  Potomac  Valley  (erected 
1877-79).     Smithmayer  &  Pelz,  architects. 

Passing  through  an  imposing  three-arched  gateway,  the 
visitor  will  first  note  the  large  bronze  seated  statue,  heroic 
size,  of  Archbishop  Carroll,  unveiled  May  4th,  1912  {Jerome 
Connor,  sculptor). 

Directly  W.,  behind  the  statue,  is  the  main  entrance  to 
the  College  offices  and  parlors  located  in  the  North  Pavilion 
of  the  eastern  or  Healy  Building.  The  College  is  not  offi- 
cially open  to  the  public ;  visitors,  however,  are  courteously 
received,  and  a  student  will  usually  be  assigned  to  conduct 
them  through  the  buildings. 

The  parlors  contain  several  works  of  art.  Note  espe- 
cially in  S.  parlor,  *The  Calling  of  St.  Matthew,  by  Luca 
Giordano ;  St.  Joseph,  by  Guercino;  portrait  of  the  *Rev.  John 
Carroll,  D.D.  (1735-1815),  the  founder  of  Georgetown  Col- 
lege, by  Gilbert  Stuart;  also  portraits  of  William  Brent,  Esq. 
of  Richland,  Stafford  Co. ;  and  of  Mrs.  Brent,  sister  of  Arch- 
bishop Carroll.  In  the  N.  parlor  is  a  full  length  portrait  of 
Mrs.  Henry  S.  Lehr,  by  Muller  Ury. 

On  the  second  floor  of  the  N.  pavilion  is  Philodemic  Hall, 
devoted  to  the  purposes  of  the  college's  leading  Debating 
Society.  On  the  walls  are  a  series  of  portraits  and  photo- 
graphs of  distinguished  alumni,  beginning  in  the  N.  W.  corner 
with    the    College's    first    student,    the    Hon.    William    Gaston 


GEORGETOWN  COLLEGE  469 

of  North  Carolina.  It  is  in  his  memory  that  the  beautiful 
Gaston  Hall,  immediately  above  Philodemic  Hall,  on  the 
third  floor,  was  named. 

Gaston  Hall  should  not  be  hurriedly  visited.  Its  architec- 
ture, its  windows,  its  murals  and  general  color  scheme  are 
all  in  admirable  harmony,  and  a  further  interest  is  added  in 
the  fact  that  the  interior  decorations  were  all  designed  and 
executed  by  a  member  of  the  Order,  Father  Schroen.  On 
the  W.  wall,  above  the  platform,  are  two  interesting  murals, 
each  consisting  of  a  group  of  three  symbolic  figures.  In  the 
right  group  is  Alma  Mater,  with  Art  on  her  right  and  Science 
on  her  left;  in  left  group  is  Faith,  holding  a  Bible;  on  her 
right  is  Morality,  on  her  left  Patriotism.  Higher  up,  in 
S.  W.  corner,  female  figure  personifying  Mens  Sana;  in 
N.  W.  corner,  male  figure  personifying  Corpus  Sanum. 

On  the  side  and  rear  walls  are  inscribed  a  series  of  well  chosen 
quotations  from  the  world's  great  writers,  appropriate  to  the  ideals 
of  an  educational  institution.  The  following,  copied  from  the  south 
wall,  will  serve  as  illustration:  Aristotle,  "Education  and  morals  make 
the  good  man,  the  good  statesman,  the  good  ruler."  Washington, 
"Learn  to  keep  alive  in  your  heart  that  little  spark  of  the  celestial  fire, 
'conscience'."  Cervantes,  "One  man  is  not  greater  than  another  unless 
he  do  greater  things."  Bourdalouc,  ''There  is  nothing  more  precious 
than  time,  for  it  is  the  price  of  Eternity."  Plato,  "I  know  of  nothing 
more  worthy  of  a  man's  ambition  than  that  his  son  shall  be  the  best  of 
men." 

The  Coleman  Museum,  so  named  in  recognition  of  the 
many  benefactions  of  James  V.  Coleman,  '69,  is  also  situated 
in  the  N.  pavilion.  The  special  features  Of  this  collection 
are  its  extensive  mineral  exhibits,  including  the  Langdale 
Collection  of  minerals  found  in  the  District  of  Columbia. 
Paleontology  is  also  well  represented,  and  contains  an  unusual 
number  of  specimens  of  fossil  vertebrates,  chiefly  from 
Alaska. 

The  Riggs  Memorial  Library,  founded  by  the  late  E. 
Francis  Riggs  in  memory  of  his  father  and  brother,  is  situ- 
ated in  the  S.  pavilion.  The  University  library  dates  back 
to  the  foundation  of  the  college.  In  1891  it  was  transferred 
to  the  present  Hall,  which  Mr.  Riggs  had  equipped  with  a 
main  reading  room  and  with  galleries  and  alcoves  affording 
shelf  room  for  104,000  volumes.  The  library  grew  so  rapidly 
that,  in  191 1,  Mr.  Riggs  furnished  an  "annex,"  consisting  of 
a  stack  60  x  40  ft,  situated  beneath  the  main  library,  with  a 
capacity  of  70,000  volumes.  In  this  extension  is  placed  the 
collection  of  Dr.  John  Gilmary  Shea,  rich  in  Americana, 
Ecclesiastical  chronicles  and  works  on  the  American  Indian 
languages. 


470  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Other  collections  included  in  the  library  are:  I.  Hirst  Col- 
lection, being  the  final  aggregation  of  the  three  libraries  of 
the  college  societies;  2.  Morgan  Maryland  Colonial  History 
Library,  the  important  feature  of  which  is  a  spacious  archive 
vault,  in  which  Maryland  and  District  families  are  invited 
to  deposit  their  ancestoral  papers ; '  3.  Observatory  Library, 
located  on  Observatory  Hill,  and  consisting  mainly  of  works 
on  astronomy  and  mathematics. 

In  the  reading  room  of  the  college  library  note  especially 
the  fine  old  elliptical  mahogany  table  which,  according  to 
tradition,  was  used  by  the  Council  of  Maryland  Province 
in  the  time  of  Leonard  Calvert,  the  founder  of  St.  Mary's. 

From  the  library  we  proceed  W.  to  the  Ida  M.  Ryan  Hall, 
the  gift  of  Mrs.  Thomas  F.  Ryan,  which  contains  on  the 
ground  floor  the  spacious  students'  dining  room,  the  W. 
windows  of  which  overlook  the  Potomac. 

Leaving  Ryan  Hall  by  the  N.  door  we  cross  the  quad- 
rangle to  the  W.  side,  where  stands  the  Chapel  of  the  Sacred 
Heart,  the  gift  of  Mrs.  John  Vinton  Dahlgren,  in  memory 
of  her  son,  Joseph  Drexel  Dahlgren.  The  cornerstone  was 
laid  by  Cardinal  Gibbons,  May  19th,  1892.  The  chapel  has  a 
seating  capacity  of  500. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  college  quadrangle  is  the  venerable 
structure  of  the  "Old  North  Building."  Note  the  many  quaint 
portraits  of  Cardinals  and  other  church  dignitaries  in  the 
main  corridor.  This  building  contains  the  Beanchamp  Hughes 
Art  Cabinet,  comprising  a  rare  collection  of  precious  laces 
and  needle-work,  bronzes,  china  and  other  objects  of  art, 
which,  for  all  its  interest,  seems  somewhat  out  of  place  in  a 
young  men's  college. 

The  North  Building  opens  directly  into  the  hall  of  the 
N.  pavilion,  bringing  the  visitor  back  to  his  starting  point. 

Returning  E.  on  O  St.  to  35th  St.  (formerly  Fayette  St.), 
then  ,N.  to  P  St.,  we  reach,  at  N.W.  cor.,  the  Convent  of  the 
Visitation  and  opposite,  the  Volta  Bureau.  (For  both  see 
below  p.  473  and  p.  475.) 

North,  on  W.  side  of  35th  St.,  stands  the  Western  High 
School,  a  buff  brick  structure  with  a  spacious  Ionic  portico. 
Turning  E.  one  block  on  Volta  Place,  then  S.  t»/o  blocks  on 
34th  St.,  we  reach,  at  No.  3314  O  St.,  the  former  home  of 
Baron  Bodisco  (p.  478),  still  in  excellent  preservation.  Con- 
tinuing E.  on  O  St.  we  reach,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  Potomac  St. : 

The  historic  St.  John's  Church  (P.  E.)  and  site  of  the 
old  St.  John's  Churchyard,  are  situated  at  the  S.E.  cor.  of 
Potomac    and    O    Sts.      The    old    church,    much    modernized, 


GEORGETOWN  COLLEGE  47* 

together  with  the  comparatively  modern  Sunday  School  and 
Church  and  Church  Parlor  (on  E.),  all  finished  externally 
in  stucco  or  "mastic,"  now  cover  practically  all  the  grounds. 
The  short  hall-way  or  "cloister"  connecting  them  was  added 
in    1915. 

On  a  granite  boulder,  in  the  corner  of  the  lot,  is  a  bronze 
tablet  bearing  the  following  inscription : 

"Col.  Ninian  Beall,  b.  Scotland!  1625,  d.  Maryland  1677.  Patentee 
of  the  Rock  of  Dumbarton,  Member  of  the  House  of  Burgesses,  Com- 
mander-in-Chief of  the  Provincial  Forces  of  Maryland.  In  grateful 
recognition  of  his  services  'upon  all  incursions  and  disturbances  of 
neighboring  Indians,'  the  Maryland  Assembly  of  1669  passed  'an  act 
of  Gratuity.'  This  memorial  is  erected  by  the  Society  of  Colonial 
Wars  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  1910." 

Old  St.  John's  is  the  third  oldest  Episcopal  church  in  the 
District  of  Columbia,  being  antedated  only  by  St.  Paul's 
Rook  Creek  (p.  436)  and  Christ  Church,  Navy  Yard  (p.  406). 

The  first  services  of  the  little  congregation,  destined  to 
become  St.  John's  Church,  were  held,  beginning  in  1794,  in 
the  Georgetown  Presbyterian  Church,  and  were  conducted  by 
the  Rev.  Walter  D.  Addison  who,  during  his  "loved  pastor- 
ate," became  blind. 

In  1809  the  first  church  building  was  consecrated  by  the 
Rt.  Rev.  Thomas  J.  Claggett  (p.  461),  the  first  Bishop  con- 
secrated on  American  soil.  Mr.  Addison's  successor  was  the 
Rev.  Stephen  H.  Tyng,  who  later  became  famous  while 
Rector  of  St.  George's  Church,  New  York  City. 

The  church  is  open  daily,  and  contains  some  fine  me- 
morial windows  by  Meyer  Bros,  of  Munich  (in  some  of 
the  windows  the  old  geometric  patterns  have  not  yet  been 
replaced). 

Nave,  W.  side :  2d  window.  The  Annunciation ;  4th  win- 
dow, The  Crucifixion :  "It  is  finished,"  St.  John,  xix,  30 ; 
above  are  the   four  Archangels  with  their  attributes. 

Nave,  E.  side:  1.  (opposite  Annunciation  window)  Mary's 
visit  to  Elizabeth  and  Zachariah :  "Blessed  art  thou  among 
women,"  St.  Luke,  i,  42;  2.  The  Angel  at  the  Tomb:  "Why 
seek  ye  the  living  among  the  dead?  He  is  not  here  but  is 
risen,"  St.  Luke,  xxiv,  5-6;  3.  The  Ascension:  "Ye  men  of 
Galilee,  why  stand  ye  gazing  up  into  Heaven?"  Acts,  i,  11. 

Immediately  S.  of  this  window  is  a  memorial  tablet  to 
John  J.  Sayre,  the  first  ordained  rector  of  this  church,  who 
died  January  6th,  1809,  aged  35  years.  The  verses  hereon 
inscribed  are  by  Francis  Scott  Key,  once  a  vestryman  of 
this  church. 

Chancel  windows  (west  side)  :  W.  Window :  (above) 
The   Sermon   on   the   Mount;    (below)    L.   to   R. :    Matthew, 


472  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Mark,  Luke,  John,  signed  Meyer  Bros.  N.  Window;  (above) 
The  Baptism  of  Christ  by  St.  John;  (below)  two  panels 
representing:  I,  The  embarkation  of  Noah  and  family  on 
the  Ark;  2.  The  Ark  on  Mt.  Ararat.  This  window  is  a 
memorial  to  Dr.  Walter  Dulaney  Addison,  founder  of  the 
church  in  1794. 

Directly  opposite  St.  John's  Church,  on  the  N.  side  of 
O  St.,  stands  the  Curtis  School,  containing  the  Peabody 
Library. 

When  George  Peabody,  the  well  known  financier  and  philanthropist, 
was  a  young  man,  he  began  his  business  career  in  Georgetown,  as 
clerk  in  a  drug  store  (p.  465).  He  later  treasured  grateful  memories 
of  the  town  which  had  given  him  his  first  start:  and  in  1867  he  gave 
in  trust  to  William  W.  Corcoran  and  four  others  the  sum  of  $15,000 
for  the  purpose  of  founding  a  free  public  library  in  Georgetown.  'I  he 
library  was  incorporated  as  the  "Peabody  Library  Association  oi 
Georgetown";  but  the  fund  was  allowed  to  accumulate  until  1872,  when 
Edward  M.  Linthicum  added  $50,000  for  the  purpose  of  a  free  school. 
The  library  is  open  evenings,  from  6  to  9,  except  Saturdays  and 
Sundays.      Circulating  privileges   to   subscribers   only. 

At  the  next  corner  O  St.  fails  to  cross  Wisconsin  Ave., 
but  continues  eastward  from  a  point  half  a  block  N.  At 
the  S.  W.  cor.  of  O  St.   and  31st    (formerly  Congress)    St. 

stands 

Christ's  Church,  organized  in  1818,  the  founders  in- 
cluding Francis  Scott  Key,  the  poet,  and  Thomas  Corcoran, 
the  father  of  William  W.  Corcoran.  The  original  church 
edifice  was  not  completed  until  1835.  It  stood  until  1886, 
when  the  present  structure  was  erected.  The  latter  is  an 
unpretentious  but  harmonious  example  of  pure  English 
Gothic.  Its  chief  attraction  to  the  stranger  lies  in  its  beau- 
tiful stained-glass  windows,  which  have  few  rivals  among 
Washington  churches.  They  are  all  memorial  windows, 
and  were  executed  by  Mayer  &  Company,  of  Munich,  accord- 
ing to  a  harmonious  plan,  and  all  imported  and  installed 
simultaneously.  The  church  is  open  daily  from  9  A.  M. 
until  5   P.  M. 

.  The  entrance  is  at  the  corner,  and  from  the  vestibule  two  doors 
open  respectively  into  the  E.  aisle  and  main  body  of  the  church.  The 
visitor  will  find  it  most  convenient  to  enter  S.  door,  continue  down  E. 
aisle,  through  Chantry,  and  then  cross  over  to  W.  aisle,  leaving  in- 
spection of  the  Clerestory  for  the  last. 

East  Aisle  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  "Not  my  will,  but  Thine  be 
done"  (Luke  xxii,  42);  2.  A.  "Simeon  came  by  the  Spirit 
into  the  Temple"  (Luke  ii,  27)  ;  B.  "Anna  departed  not  from 
the  Temple"  (Luke  ii,  37)  ;  3.  The  Beloved  Physician;  4.  (in 
Chantry)  Triple  window :  Madonna  and  Child,  between  Hope 


THE  CONVENT  OF  THE  VISITATION  473 

and  Faith ;  inscription :  "Thou  are  the  King  of  Glory,  O 
Christ!" 

Over  Altar :  Christ  Enthroned;  inscription:  "He  is 
King,  as  He  said,  of  all  Thy  Saints." 

West  Aisle  (S.  to  N.)  :  1.  A.  Resurrection  of  Jairus's 
Daughter:  "She  is  not  dead  but  sleepeth"  (Luke  viii,  52); 
B.  "I  will  give  thee  a  Crown  of  Life';  2.  The  Calling  of 
James  and  John  his  brother  (Matthew  iv,  21-22)  ;  3.  The 
Centurion :  "I  have  not  found  so  great  faith,  no,  not  in  all 
Israel"  (Luke  vii,  9)  ;  4.  *"Mary  hath  chosen  that  good  part 
which  shall  not  be  taken  away  from  her";  (Luke  x,  42)  ;  5. 
A.  "The  Lord  is  my  Shepherd" ;  B.  "He  leadeth  me  beside  the 
Still  Waters"  (Psalms  xxiii,  1-2)  ;  6.  A.  "In  the  night  His 
Song  shall  be  with  me" ;  B.  Boaz  and  Ruth :  "The  Lord 
recompense  thy  work,  under  whose  wings  thou  art  come  to 
trust"    (Ruth  ii,    12). 

North  Wall:  Large  *Te  Deum  Window:  The  central 
division  shows  (above)  The  Ascension,  "Thou  has  ascended 
on  High."  Below  are  three  panels  (L.  to  R.)  :  I.  Adoration 
of  the  Magi;  2.  Peace  through  the  Blood  of  the  Cross;  3. 
Christ  in  the  Temple.  Left  Division :  A.  "Angels  came  and 
ministered  unto  Him"  (Matthezv  iv,  11);  B.  Sermon  on  the 
Mount ;  Right  Division :  (above)  Last  Supper  (Luke  xxii, 
19);  (below)  A.  "Suffer  little  Children";  B.  The  Miracle  of 
the  Blind  Man. 

Clerestory  windows'-  E.  side  (N.  to  S.)  :  1.  St.  James 
minor,  St.  Matthew,  St.  Thomas ;  2.  St.  Gabriel,  between 
two  angels;  3.  St.  James,  major,  St.  John,  St.  Peter;  4.  St. 
Stephen  between  Dorcas  and  Lydia. 

Clerestory,  W.  side :  1.  St.  Paul,  between  Luke  and 
Mark;  2.  St.  Philip,  between  St.  Bartholomew  and  St.  An- 
drew; 3.  St.  Michael,  between  two  angels;  4.  St.  Jude,  between 
St.  Simon  and  St.  Matthew;  5.  Miriam,  between  Moses  and 
Aaron. 

c.     The  Convent  of  the  Visitation 

The  *Convent  of  the  Visitation,  the  second  oldest  Con- 
vent for  nuns  in  the  United  States,  is  situated  on  W.  side 
of  35th  St.,  from  P  St.  to  the  foot  of  Volta  Place  (formerly 
Q  St.).  The  four-storied  brick  Convent  building,  with  its 
green-shuttered  windows,  the  Academy  of  the  Visitation  (a 
school  for  young  girls)  and  the  intervening  chapel  form  a 
continuous  facade  on  the  street  side.  The  facade  of  the 
chapel,  brick  coated  with  plaster  and  painted  brown  with 
tan  colored  trim,   has   four  classic  pilasters   with   Doric   capi- 


474  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

tals ;  above  is  a  Greek  pediment.  Over  the  nave  rises  a  square 
tower,  shuttered  and  loop-holed,  with  a  quaint  balustraded 
belfry  spire.  A  tablet  above  the  main  entrance  is  inscribed 
"Vovete  et  reddite  Domino  Deo  vostro,"  Psalm  Ixxv,  vers. 
12  ("Vow  ye  and  pay  unto  the  Lord  your  God"). 

There  are  three  street  entrances,  opening  respectively  into 
the  Academy,  the  Chapel  and  the  Convent.  The  latter,  with 
its  spacious  vestibule,  has  such  a  hospitable  appearance  that 
tourists  not  infrequently  make  the  mistake  of  ringing.  They 
receive  no  answer;  for  those  doors  never  open  excepting 
when  some  of  the  lay  sisters  go  forth  on  necessary  errands, 
or  on  the  rare  occasions  when  outsiders  must  be  admitted  (i.e. 
physicians,  in  case  of  serious  illness,  and  others  under  special 
dispensation).  For  many  years  no  outsiders  have  been  ad- 
mitted even  to  the  Convent  grounds,  or  the  Academy,  with  the 
exception  of  parents  or  guardians  of  pupils. 

History.  The  history  of  this  Convent  reads  almost  like  a  romance. 
Among  the  nuns  driven  from  France  by  the  Revolution  of  1793,  were 
three  belonging  to  the  Order  of  the  Poor  Clares,  who  set  up  a  little 
convent  in  Georgetown  near  the  college.  Father  Neale,  later  second 
Archbishop  of  Baltimore,  was  then  President  of  Georgetown  College. 
Many  years  earlier,  while  toiling  as  a  poor  missionary  in  Georgetown, 
D'eimerara,  he  had  a  vision  (so1  the  tradition  runs)  of  St.  Jane  de 
Chantel  and  St.  Francis  de  Sales  (the  founders  of  the  Order  of  the 
Visitation)  who  said  to  him,  "You  will  erect  a  house  of  this  Order  at 
Georgetown."  In  the  later  years  of  his  prosperity  Father  Neale  still 
remembered  his  vision.  He  became  especially  interested  in  the  spiritual 
zeal  of  a  certain  Miss  Alice  Lalor,  and  two  of  her  young  friends,  who 
were  desirous  of  taking  vows,  and  for  a  time  boarded  and  taught  with 
the  Poor  Clare  sisters.  The  rules  of  this  Order,  however,  were  too  aus- 
tere, and  Father  Neale  (still  obsessed  with  his  vision)  bought  a  house 
and  lot  near  by  and  there  installed  the  three  American  nuns,  with  Alice 
Lalor  (Sister  Teresa)  as  the  first  Mother  Superior.  An  interesting  bit 
of  inside  history  is  that,  while  it  was  determined  in  advance  that  the 
newly  established  Convent  should  conform  to  the  established  rules  of 
the  Order  of  the  Visitation,  no  one  at  that  time  in  America  knew  what 
these  rules  were.  When  conditions  in  France  made  possible  the  return 
of  the  Poor  Clares,  their  possessions  in  Georgetown,  including  a  small 
library,  were  taken  over  by  the  Visitation  Order.  By  a  curious  irony  of 
fate  it  happened  that  none  of  the  Sisters  read  French,  and  consequently 
several  years  passed  before  they  discovered  that  this  library  contained 
a  volume  minutely  describing  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  Order  of 
the  Visitation,  which,  incidentally,  apprised  them  that  for  all  those  years 
they  had  been,  in  many  ways,  needlessly  austere. 

Glimpses  of  the  grounds  behind  the  Convent  may  be  had 
from  surrounding  elevated  points.  Along  the  boundaries  runs 
a  line  of  Pecan  trees  which,  according  to  tradition,  were 
grown  from  a  pocketful  oi  Pecan  nuts  given,  in  1807,  by 
President  Jefferson  to  Mr.  Threlkeld,  a  grandfather  of  one 
of  the  nuns  (the  Threlkeld  family  were  originally  the  princi- 
pal land  owners  of  this  part  of  Georgetown,  and  the  land  of 
Georgetown  University  was  acquired  from  them). 


THE  VOLTA  BUREAU  475 

Although  the  visitor  cannot  enter,  it  may  interest  him  to  know  that 
the  chapel  contains:  I.  A  marble  altar,  the  gift  of  Charles  X.  of 
France;  2.  A  painting  of  Martlia  and  Mary,  also  a  gift  of  the  King.  Be- 
neath the  chapel  is  a  mortuary  vault)  containing  the  tombs  of:  1.  Arch- 
bishop Leonard  Neale;  2.  His  successor,  Father  Chloriviere;  3.  Sister 
Teresa  Lalor,  the  first  Mother  Superior;  4.  MisSi  Yturbide,  daughter  of 
the  Mexican  Emperor;  also  three  Sisters,  members  of  the  Neale  family. 

Within  the  Convent  grounds  is  a  small  cemetery  containing  the 
graves,  among  others,  of:  1.  Sister  Mary  Frances  (Phoebe  Ripley), 
niece  of  Ralpn  Waldo  Emerson;  2.  Sister  Bernard,  niece  of  General 
Graham;  3.  Sister  Mary  Emmanuel  (Virginia  Scott),  daughter  of  Gen- 
eral Winfield  Scott;  4.  Sister  Stanislaus  (one  of  Georgetown's  most 
beloved    religieuses),    daughter    of    Commodore    Jones,    hero   of    1812. 

Facing  the  Convent,  at  S.  E.  cor.  of  Volta  Place,  stands 
No.  1525,  a  spacious  old  residence,  occupied,  from  1881  until 
shortly  before  his  death,  by  Professor  Alexander  Melville 
Bell  (1819-1905),  the  inventor  of  "Visible  Speech,"  which 
has  been  pronounced  as  being  "one  of  the  world's  greatest 
benefactions,  and  has  given  mankind  the  only  possible  Uni- 
versal Alphabet."  The  house  is  now  occupied  by  the  Wash- 
ington branch  of  the  Montessori  School,  Primary  Department. 

Opposite,  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Volta  Place,  stands  the 
♦Vblta  Bureau,  sometimes  defined  as  the  "World's  Clearing- 
house of  Knowledge  concerning  the  Deaf."  The  building 
is  a  small  rectangular  structure  of  limestone  and  buff  brick, 
standing  upon  an  elevation  approached  by  some  twenty-five 
steps,  and  in  general  plan  suggests  an  adaptation  of  a  Grecian 
Temple    (Peabody  and  Steames,  of   Boston,  architects). 

On  the  35th  St.  facade  are  two  tablets:  1.  (on  R.)  "Volta  Bureau 
for  the  Increase  and  Diffusion  of  Knowledge  relating  to  the  Deaf''; 
2.  (on  L.)  "American  Association  to  promote  the  Teaching  of  Speech 
to  the  Deaf." 

History.  The  Volta  Bureau,  founded  in  1887,  was  the  outgrowth 
of  extensive  researches  conducted  by  Alexander  Graham  Bell,  during 
the  years  1878-83,  to  determine  the  causes  of  deafness,  and  its  rela- 
tion to  the  laws  of  heredity.  The  Bureau  derives  both  its  name  and 
endowment  from  the  fact  that  Dr.  Bell  received  in  1880,  from  the 
National  Institute  of  France,  the  award  of  the  Volta  Prize,  amount- 
ing to  50,000  francs,  in  recognition  of  his  services  to  the  world  in 
inventing  the  speaking  telephone.  This  prize  money,  invested  in 
laboratory  equipment  and  experiments,  resulted  in  the  invention  of 
the  phonograph-gramophone,  which  proved  such  a  commercial  success 
that  Dr.  Bell  was  able  to  dispose  of  his  own  interest  for  $100,000, 
which  he  set  aside  as  an  endowment  fund  for  the  Volta  Bureau. 

The  first  trustee  of  the  Bureau  was  Dr.  Bell's  father,  Prof.  Alex- 
ander Melville  Bell;  and  its  first  quarters  were  at  No.  3414  Q  St. 
(now  Volta  Place).  The  scope  of  the  Bureau,  however,  increased 
with  such  unforeseen  rapidity  that  in  1892  plans  for  the  present 
building  were  prepared.  The  first  soil  was  turned  by  Miss  Helen 
Keller.  The  Bureau  remained  the  legal  property  of  its  trustee,  Pro- 
fessor Bell,  and  his  successor,  Charles  J.  Bell,  until  1909,  when  it 
was  transferred  to  the  American  Association  to  promote  the  Teaching 
of  Speech  to  the  Deaf,  another  association  founded  and  endowed,  in 
1890,   by   Dr.   Bell. 


476 


RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 


The  Bureau  is  open  daily,  except  Sundays  and  Holidays, 
from  8.30  A.  M.  to  5  P.  M.  (On  Saturdays  during  June, 
July  and  August  it  closes  at  12  M.)  The  main  entrance  hall 
contains  numerous  busts  and  portraits,  including  paintings, 
crayons  and  photographs  of  famous  teachers  of  the  deaf. 
The  portraits  are,  for  the  most  part,  fully  labeled,  and  the 
visitor  is  at  liberty  to  study  them  at  his  leisure.  The  present 
Superintendent,  Dr.  Fred.  De  Land,  is  most  courteous  in 
explaining  to  strangers  the  various  activities  of  the  Bureau. 

The  Bureau  possesses  a  specialized  reference  library,  which  in- 
cludes all  procurable  works  on  the  education  of  the  deaf,  and  the 
ways  and  means  of  ameliorating  their  condition.  The  collection  in- 
cludes 1720  bound  volumes  of  American  and  Canadian  periodicals,  and 
nearly  as  many  foreign  periodicals  published  for  or  by  the  deaf,  a 
large  percentage  being  the  only  copies  in  existence.  It  contains  also 
over  3000  reports  of  schools  for  the  deaf;  a  large  collection  of  photo- 
graphs of  persons  who  have  labored  on  behalf  of  the  deaf;  and  ex- 
haustive statistics,  including  a  card  catalogue  of  more  than  50,000 
deaf  children  admitted  into  schools  for  the  deaf  during  181 7-1 900. 
This   library   is   open   to   the   public  for   reference. 

One  of  the  main  activities  of  the  Bureau  is  the  printing  and 
free  distribution  of  many  thousands  of  pamphlets  and  books  contributing 
to  the  knowledge  of  deafness.  It  also  publishes  the  Volta  Record,  a 
monthly  magazine  devoted  chiefly  to  encouraging  lip-reading  and  the 
home    teaching    of    little    deaf    children. 

d.     Georgetown   Heights 

*Georgetown  Heights,  comprising  the  high  ridge  extending  along 
the  northern  limits  of  old  Georgetown,  between  West  St.  (now  P  St.) 
on  the  south  and  Rock  Creek  on  the  north,  was  practically  all  owned, 
up  to  179S,  by  Thomas  Beall,  and  represented  his  share  of  the  original 
"Rock  of  Dumbarton,"  inherited  from  his  ancestor  Ninian  Beall. 
Within  the  next  two  decades  the  squares  composing  it  had  become 
distributed  by  purchase,  marriage  or  inheritance  among  a  few  leading 
families  of  the  town,  for  the  most  part  closely  inter-related,  and  whose 
individual  holdings  were  squares  and  multiples  of  squares.  None  of 
these  original  holdings  have  remained  intact:  new  streets  have  been 
cut  through;  whole  sides  of  the  old  squares  have  bten  sold  off  as  city 
lots;  some  of  the  historic  mansions  have  passed  away,  leaving  no  trace; 
others  stand  half  surrounded  by  solid  blocks  of  modern  dwellings. 
Nevertheless  there  still  survives  on  the  Heights  a  distinctive  atmosphere 
of  old  traditions  and  pride  of  race,  which  the  casual  stranger  must 
feel   even  if  he  cannot  analyze  it. 

Turning  N.  on  31st  St.  two  squares  to  Q  St.,  we  reach 
*Tudor  Place,  the  most  important  surviving  private  dwelling 
within  the  present  District  limits.  This  estate  originally 
comprised  the  entire  square  bounded  by  31st  and  32d,  Q  and 
R  Sts.  It  was  purchased  from  Thomas  Beall  in  1794  by 
one  Francis  Loundes,  one  of  Georgetown's  merchants  whose 
shipments  of  tobacco  had  made  the  town  an  active  com- 
mercial centre.  In  1805  he  sold  the  square  to  Thomas  Peter, 
son  of  Robert  Peter  (first  Mayor  of  Georgetown),  and  hus- 
band  of   Martha   Parke    Custis,    granddaughter    of     Martha 


GEORGETOWN  HEIGHTS  477 

Washington.  The  house,  which  still  stands  as  originally 
completed,  was  built  by  Dr.  William  Thornton  (p.  51)  ;  the 
wings  were  erected  first  (whether  during  the  ownership  of 
Loundes  or  later  is  not  known)  ;  the  central  building  uniting 
them  was  paid  for  by  the  bequest  to  Mrs.  Peter  contained 
in  George  Washington's  will. 

Washington  had  a  deep  affection  for  Mrs.  Peter,  and  was  a 
frequent  visitor  at  her  home.  On  the  occasion  of  his  last  visit  to 
Washington  he  spent  the  night  in  what  was  then  their  city  residence  on 
K  St.   (p.   239). 

Mr.  Peter  had  two  daughters:  i.  America,  who  married  William 
George  Williams,  a  graduate  of  West  Point,  who  hecame  Chief  of 
Engineers  under  Zachary  Taylor,  and  died  at  the  Battle  of  Monte- 
rey; 2.  Britannia,  whose  first  husband  was  a  Wellington,  and  who 
later  married  Commander  Beverly  Kennon.  One  year  later  he  died 
with  the  other  victims  of  the  explosion  on  board  the  Princeton  of  the 
U.  S.  N.  His  widow,  born  at  Tudor  Place,  inherited  the  property  and 
resided  there  until  her  recent  death  at  the  age  of  96.  She  was  the 
oldest   living   descendant   of   Martha   Washington. 

Directly  S.  of  Tudor  Place  still  stands  the  almost  equally 
old  Bowie  mansion,  which  to-day  seems  a  part  of  the  closely 
built-up  city  block,  but  which  originally  occupied  the  entire 
square  S.  of  O   St. 

Gradually  building  lots  were  sold  on  all  four  sides  of  the  square; 
but  the  rear  gardens  have  remained  intact — and  they  are  encircled  by  a 
close-set  row  of  lofty  poplars,  the  tsj^s  of  which  are  plainly  visible  above 
the  modern  dwellings. 

Turning  N.  on  32d  St.  (formerly  High  St.),  we  pass 
between  Tudor  Place  and  the  square  on  L  acquired  in  1796 
by  a  certain  Thomas  Sims  Lee,  a  distinguished  Maryland 
patriot,  and  thereafter  always  known  as  "Lee's  Hill."  The 
highest  portion,  at  cor.  of  R  St.  and  Wisconsin  Ave.,  is 
occupied  by  the  Georgetown  Reservoir,  forming  part  of  the 
city  water  system. 

The  middle  line  of  R.  St.  was  in  18 19  designated  by  Congress  as 
the  official  northern  boundary  of  Georgetown;  and  for  a  large  part  of 
the  19th  century  boundary  stones  remained  standing  in  the  middle 
of  the  street. 

At  No.  3101  R  St.,  directly  north  of  TuJcr  Place,  stood 
until  recently  The  Oaks,  formerly  known  as  Monterey,  the 
second  in  importance  of  the  surviving  historic  mansions,  with 
its  beautiful  grounds  extending  W.  almost  to  Wisconsin  Ave. 
It  was  built  originally  by  William  H.  Dorsey  who,  in  1801,  was 
appointed  by  President  Jefferson  as  the  first  Judge  of  the 
Orphans'  Court.  Dorsey  sold  out  in  1805  to  Robert  Beverly, 
who  married  a  sister  of  Col.  John  Tayloe  of  the  Octagon 
House  (p.  209).  In  1823  it  came  into  the  possession  o<f 
John   C.    Calhoun,   who   occupied  it   while    Secretary  of   War 


478  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

under  Monroe.  Here  Lafayette  was  entertained  during  his 
last  visit  to  Washington  in  1824.  In  1846  the  property  was 
acquired  for  $11,000  by  Edward  Linthicum,  one  of  George- 
town's leading  merchants.  A  modern  dwelling  is  now  in 
course  of  erection. 

The  winding  roadway  which  marks  the  east  boundary  of  The  Oaks, 
and  known  successively  as  Parrott's  Lane,  Boyce  Lane  and  Lovers' 
Lane,  was  first  opened  in  1900  as  far  as  the  Branch,  and  to  this  day 
is  probably  the  best  known  suburban  road  in  the  District.  Many 
romantic  traditions  are  associated  with  this  picturesque  lane. 

Montrose  Park,  immediately  east  of  Lovers'  Lane,  is  a 
sixteen-acre  tract,  stretching  back  to  Rock  Creek,  with  its 
fine  old  woods  and  a  picturesque  gorge.  In  1804  it  was 
acquired  by  one  Richard  Parrott,  who  erected  the  stately 
old-fashioned  dwelling  which  until  a  few  years  ago  was 
one  of  the  neighborhood  landmarks.  In  1837  it  passed  into 
the  hands  of  William  M.  Boyce,  whose  sister  married  George 
Washington    Peter,   great-grandson   of    Martha   Washington. 

The  estate,  known  earlier  as  Parrott's  Woods,  was  re- 
christened  "Montrose,"  from  the  fact  that  the  Boyces  claimed 
descent  from  the  Earl  of  Montrose.  The  property  was  ac- 
quired by  the  Government  in  191 1,  at  a  cost  of  $110,000.  The 
old  house  was  in  such  a  precarious  condition  that  it  had  to 
be  demolished.  Only  the  kitchen,  which  formed  the  east  wing, 
survives,  and  is  used  temporarily  as  a  comfort-house.  The 
straight  path  running  directly  North  from  the  site  of  the 
house  is  still  called  the  Rope  Walk,  from  having  been  used 
for  that  purpose  by  the  original  owner,  Parrott. 

The  name  Parrott's  Woods  was  also  erroneously  applied 
to  the  land  on  the  east  of  Montrose,  now  occupied  by  Oak 
Hill  Cemetery   (p.  479). 

The  square  opposite  Montrose,  on  the  South  side  of 
R  St.,  is  an  historic  site,  although  no  landmark  remains  to 
mark  it.  On  the  N.  W.  portion,  during  the  first  half  of  the 
iQth  century  stood  the  housei  of  Brooke  Williams,  the  wed- 
ding of  whose  prettiest  daughter,  Harriet,  a  sixteen-year-old 
schoolgirl,  to  Baron  de  Bodisco,  the  fifty-year  old  Russian 
Minister,  was  Georgetown's  greatest  social  event. 

The  N.  E.  portion  of  the  square  was  known  as  Peter's 
Grove,  its  second  owner  being  David  Peter,  brother  of  the 
owner  of  Tudor  Place.  The  first  owner  (1798-1908)  was 
William  Craik,  son  of  Dr.  James  Craik,  the  physician  who 
accompanied  Washington  on  Braddock's  Expedition,  and 
throughout  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  and  attended  him 
during  his  last  illness  (p.  495).  Much  later  the  place  was 
occupied  by  Sir  John  F.  Crampton,  the  British  Minister;  and 


OAK  HILL  CEMETERY  479 

here  Thackeray  was  entertained  during  his  visit  to  Washing- 
ton. Its  next  occupant  was  the  French  Minister,  Count  de 
Sartiges,  during  whose  tenancy  the  old  house  was  totally 
destroyed  by  fire. 

The  next  square  to  the  E.,  between  29th  and  30th  Sts., 
was  the  home  of  Col.  George  Corbin  Washington,  great-neph- 
ew of  George  Washington,  and  at  the  time  of  his  death  in 
1854,  his  nearest  surviving  relative.  The  dwelling,  still  stand- 
ing, on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  near  the  corner  of  R  St.,  is 
a  large,  plain  two-story  brick  building,  with  main  entrance  on 
the  north  side. 

Turning  S.  on  30th  St.,  to  Q  St.,  then  E.  to  28th  St.,  we 
reach  the  Rittenhouse  Mansion,  earlier  called  "Bellevue,"  and 
generally  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  surviving 
specimens  of  architecture  dating  back  to  the  opening  years  of 
the  19th  century. 

Among  its  early  owners  were  Joseph  Nourse,  first  Register  of 
the  Treasury,  and  Charles  Carroll  of  Bellevue  (hence  the  estate'* 
name).  It  was  here  that  Mr.  Carroll  brought  Dolly  Madison  to  await 
word  from  her  husband,  after  she  fled  from  the  White  House  in  1814. 
Later  the  property  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Rittenhouse  family, 
relatives  of  David  Rittenhouse,  the  astronomer.  The  house  formerly 
stood  directly  on  the  line  of  Q  St.  Accordingly  when,  in  191 5,  it  was 
decided  to  open  Q  St.  through  to  the  new  Rock  Creek  Bridge,  the 
present  owner  had  the  house  removed  to  the  N.  side  of  the  new 
street,  where  it  now  stands,  carefully  restored,  and  with  all  its 
original    beauty    unimpaired. 

One  block  S.,  at  the  IN.  W.  cor.  of  28th  and  P  Sts.,  visitors  with 
an  antiquarian  sense  should  notice  a  curious  old  iron  fence,  with  a 
peculiar  history.  It  is  made  of  barrels  of  old  muskets  used  in  the 
War  of  181 2.  Although  disguised  by  their  topping  of  cast-iron 
lance-heads,  their  true  nature  can  readily  be  proved  by  the  small  pro- 
jection near  the  upper  end  of  each  barrel,  forming  the  sights  of  the 
gun. 

After  the  war  was  over,  it  was  felt  that  Georgetown  deserved  some 
recompense  for  the  special  services  she  had  rendered.  But  the  Gov- 
ernment, feeling  too  poor  to  make  any  expenditure,  announced  that 
any  citizen  of  Georgetown  was  welcome  to  help  himself  from  the  vast 
scrap-heap  of  iron  and  steel  lying  in  the  Navy  Yard.  This  explains 
not  only  the  above  fence,  but  also  the  presence  of  the  U.  S.  coat-of- 
arms  on  the  iron-work  of  many   a  century-old  Georgetown   building. 

e.     Oak  Hill  Cemetery 

*Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (PI.  Ill — D2),  is  picturesquely 
situated  in  the  N.  E.  section  of  Georgetown,  on  the  terraced 
heights  sloping  down  to  Rock  Creek.  It  consists  of  a  tract 
of  about  25  acres  of  woodland,  half  of  which,  formerly  known 
as  Parrott's  Woods,  was  acquired  in  1849  by  William  W. 
Corcoran,  who  incorporated  it  under  its  present  name,  adding 
an  endowment  of  $90,000.  The  terraced  grounds,  which  have 
justly  been  recognized  as  making  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful 


480  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

cemeteries  in  America,  were  orignally  laid  out  by  a  well  known 
landscape  gardener  of  Baltimore,  George  F.  de  la  Roche. 

Reached  by  cars  marked  "Georgetown,"  either  on  F  St. 
or  Pennsylvania  Ave.  lines,  to  30th  St. ;  then  walk  N.  four 
or  eight  blocks  respectively  to  main  entrance  on  R  St.  The 
cemetery  is  open  daily  from  7  A.  M.  to  sunset ;  Sundays  and 
National  holidays  from  8  A.  M.  to  sunset.  The  rule  that 
none  but  lot-owners  are  admitted  on  Sundays  is  not  enforced. 

To  the  L.  of  entrance  gate  is  the  Superintendent's  Office, 
where  inquiries  as  to  location  of  graves  and  monuments  will 
be  courteously  answered.  Several  hours  can  be  enjoyably 
passed  in  this  cemetery  which,  although  it  has  few  mauso- 
leums, contains  not  only  the  graves  of  many  illustrious  Amer- 
icans, but  also  a  rich  variety  of  artistic  memorial  monuments. 
Visitors,  however,  who  have  limited  time  will  need  the  "fol- 
lowing specific  directions  to  the  special  points  of  interest, 
since  hours  may  be  wasted  in  search  for  a  single  grave. 

Immediately  N.  of  entrance  stands  the  Monument  to  the 
Rt.  'Riev.^  William  Pinckney  (1810-88),  a  life-size  standing 
figure  with  full  canonical  robes.  Dr.  Pinckney  (Protestant 
Episcopal  Bishop  of  Maryland,  and  nephew  of  the  great  Mary- 
land lawyer,  William  Pinckney)  was  a  life-long  friend  of 
Mr.  Corcoran,  who  erected  this  monument  to  his  memory. 

Directly  E.,  conspicuous  in  a  wide  stretch  of  lawn,  stands 
the  monument,  surmounted  by  portrait  bust  of  John  Howard 
Pajme  (1791-1852),  author  of  ''Home,  Sweet  Home." 

Payne  was  only  a  temporary  sojourner  in  Washington.  He  visited 
the  Capital  in  1841,  seeking  some  diplomatic  or  consular  appointment. 
In  the  temporary  absence  of  Webster,  then  Secretary  of  State,  who  had 
conceived  a  violent  prejudice  against  the  poet,  the  latter's  friends  suc- 
ceeded in  having  him  appointed  consul  at  Tunis.  There  he  remained 
until  his  death  in  1852.  Thirty  years  later  W.  W.  Corcoran,  who  had 
known  him  personally,  secured  permission  to  bring  his  remains  back 
to  his  native  country,  and  erected  this  monument  to  his  memory.  To 
the  W.  lies  the  original  tombstone  brought  from  Tunis,  which  bears 
a  lengthy  inscription  reading  in  part:  "To  the  memory  of  Col.  John 
Howard  Payne,  twice  Consul  of  the  United  States  of  America,  from 
the  City  and  Kingdom  of  Tunis." 

Directly  E.  of  the  Payne  monument  stands  the  graceful 
little  chapel,  designed  by  James  Renwick,  on  the  English 
Gothic  order  of  the  Henry  VIII  period,  and  half  hidden  by 
an  overgrowth  of  ivy  from  clippings  from  Melrose  Abbey. 
Northward,  approximately  at  the  angle  of  an  equilateral  tri- 
angle constructed  from  the  chapel  and  Payne  monument, 
lies,  prone  on  the  ground,  the  memorial  stone  of  the  Rev. 
Stephen  Balch,  for  53  years  pastor  of  the  First  Presbyterian 
Ghurah  of  Georgetown  (p.  464).     During  the  war  of  1812  he 


OAK   HILL  CEMETERY  481 

drilled  the  boys  of  Georgetown,  and  he  and  they  took  part 
in  the  Battle  of  Bladensburg   (p.  414). 

To  the  N.  E.  of  the  chapel  a  pathway  with  a  broken 
series  of  steps  descends  from  the  terrace,  leading  (at  29th 
step)  to  the  simple  stone  marking  the  grave  of  that  prolific 
and  once  popular  novelist,  Mrs.  E.  D.  E.  N.  Southworth 
(p.  466).  Around  the  curve  of  this  terrace  towards  the  S., 
crowning  a  circular  mound,  is  a  noticeable  column  of  blue- 
gray  Swedish  granite,  with  inscription  in  gold  lettering: 

"Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Alexander  de  Bodisco,  Chamberlain, 
Private  Counsellor  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias,  for 
17  years  his  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  to  the 
United  States.  Born  at  Moscow  18/30  October,  1786;  died  at  George- 
town 11/23  January,  1854."  (Note  on  base:  "G.  E.  Osterholm,  Stock- 
holm."). The  funeral  cortege,  according  to  a  Russian  custom,  followed 
the  remains  on  foot  to  the  grave,  an  act  of  devotion  which,  owing  to 
inclement  weather,   nearly  cost  his  young  widow   her  life. 

The  S.  side  of  the  cemetery  consist  of  a  series  of  four 
high  plateaus  with  intervening  ravines.  On  the  first  of  these 
plateaus  stands  the  above-mentioned  chapel.  Following  the 
straight  path  beside  the  S.  fence,  we  reach  the  second  height 
where,  on  L.,  directly  opposite  the  corner  S.  E.  extension 
of  the  cemetery,  is  the  white  granite  obelisk  marking  the 
grave  of  Edwin  M.  Stanton  (1814-69),  Secretary  of  War 
Under  Lincoln.  S.,  opposite  adjacent  eastern  gateway,  is  a 
stone  table-tomb  to  Samuel  Hooper,  Representative  from 
Massachusetts  (d.  1825).  Twenty  feet  E.  from  Hooper 
grave  is  the>  monument  of  Napoleon  B.  Harrison,  U.  S.  N. 
"He  commanded  the  Flag  Gunboat  of  Bailey's  Division,  lead- 
ing the  fleet  at  the  capture  of  Newi  Orleans,  April  24-25, 
1862."  Immediately  S.,  on  a  flat,  weather-beaten  slab,  may 
still  be  read  the  last  tribute  to  Lorenzo  Dow,  an  eccentric 
itinerant  preacher  (1777-1834)  :  "A  Christian  in  the  highest 
style  of  a  man.  He  is  a  slave  to  no  sect,  takes  no  private 
road,  but  looks  through  nature  on  to  nature's  God." 

S.  of  Dow  grave  is  that  of  the  Rev.  Samuel  Davis  (d. 
1822),  first  pastor  of  the  historic  Foundry  Ohurch   (p.  202). 

The  third  monument  due  N.  from  Stanton's  grave,  is  a 
broken  shaft  commemorating  Maj.  Gen.  Jesse  Lee  Reno  (b. 
1823),  killed  at  Battle  of  Sjouth  Mountain,  September  14th, 
1862.  Halfway  down  the  terraced  slope,  toward  N.  E., 
three  simple  granite  stones  and  an  Iona  Cross  mark  respec- 
tively the  graves  of  James  G.  Blaine  (1830-93),  Secretary 
of  State  under  Benjamin  Harrison,  his  wife,  son  and  daughter. 

Fifty  feet  E.,  at  an  angle  of  pathways,  is  the  monument 
to  John  A.  Joyce,  "Poet,  Soldier,  Philosopher"    (1842-1915), 


482  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

author  of  the  well-known  lines,  "Laugh  and  the  World  laughs 
with  you,  Weep  you  weep  alone." 

The  monument  is  a  simple  pedestal  of  gray  granite,  surmounted 
by  a  bronze  bust  of  the  poet,  modeled  by  Jerome  Conner  (1875 — ). 
Joyce  himself  dictated  the  inscriptions  on  the  stone,  which  was  erected 
several  years  before  his  death,  and  had  himself  photographed,  standing 
beside  the  bust. 

Following  the  L.  path,  beyond  the  Joyce  monument,  we 
reach  the  Memorial  to  William  R.  Singleton  (1818-1901), 
a  prominent  Mason  in  the  District.  The  bronze  bust  was 
executed  by  U.  S.  J.  Dunbar. 

Further  E.,  at  the  N.  verge  of  the  third  promontory,  is 
a  simple  but  sturdy  obelisk  of  pink  granite,  marking  the 
grave  of  the  eminent  Professor  Joseph  Henry,  First  President 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institute  (d.  1878).  Nearby,  to  the  S.  E., 
a  broken  mast,  with  ropes  and  a  draped  sail,  commemorates 
Rear-Admiral  Theodorus  Baley,   U.   S.   N.    (1805-77). 

Across  the  ravine  and  crowning  the  easternmost  height 
is  the  *Van  Ness  Mausoleum,  designed  by  George  Hadfield, 
after  the  Temple  of  Vesta  in  Rome,  and  originally  placed  in 
the  grounds  of  the  Church  of  the  Ascension,  on  8th  St. 

This  venerable  monument,  now  sadly  in  need  of  repair, 
was  erected  to  the  memory  of  Marcia  Van  Ness,  wife  of 
Gen.  John  P.  Van  Ness,  and  only  daughter  of  David  Burnes 
(p.  xxvii).  It  was  chiefly  through  her  generosity  that  the 
Church  of  the  Ascension  was  first  established. 

At  the  extreme  opposite,  or  N.  W.  corner  of  the  ceme- 
tery, is  another  conspicuous  mausoleum  in  the  form  of  a 
circular  Greek  Temple,  of  white  marble,  marking  the  resting 
place  of  William  Wilson  Corcoran  (1798-1888),  his  wife 
Louise  Morris  Corcoran  (11818-4;  see  p.),  his  daughter  . 
Louise  Corcoran  Eustis  (1838-67),  and  her  husband  George 
Eustis  (1828-72). 

Almost  due  W.  from  the  Corcoran  monument  stands 
an  octagonal  shaft  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Hon.  John 
H.  Eaton  (1790-1856),  of  Tennessee:  "was  U.  S.  Senator 
for  18  years,  Secretary  of  War,  Governor  of  the  State  of 
Florida  and  Minister  to  the  Court  of  Madrid." 

The  chief  interest  in  this  grave  is  that  it  also  contains  the  remains 
of  General  Eaton's  widow,  the  beautiful  "Peggy"  O'Neale,  whose 
romantic  and  adventurous  career  have  made  her  one  of  the  most 
noted  of  local  heroines  (p.  217).  No  monument  marks  her  resting  place, 
but  her  name  is  indirectly  perpetuated  on  a  small  headstone,  sur- 
mounted by  a  lamb. 

''Erected    to     my     Daughter    and     Granddaughter. 

M.     Eaton." 


CABIN  JOHN  BRIDGE  483 

In  former  years  a  little  grave  unmarked  by  any  stone, 
but  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  Lilies-of -the- Valley,  was 
pointed  out  to  visitors  as  the  resting  place  of  an  infant  son 
of  Jefferson  Davis.  The  remains,  however,  were  removed 
to  Virginia  a  number  of  years  ago. 

VIII.  Cabin  John  Bridge  and  the  Great  Falls  of  the 

Potomac 
a.     Cabin  John  Bridge 

Cabin  John  Bridge  (PI.  Ill — Di),  and  Glen  Echo  Park, 
a  summer  amusement  resort,  are  reached  by  trolley  without 
change,  via  the  F  St.,  Georgetown  Line :  cars  marked  "Cabin 
John  Bridge"  run  at  half  hour  intervals;  most  conveniently 
taken  at  cor.  of  F  and  9th  Sts.,  twenty  minutes  before  and  ten 
minutes  after  each  hour.  Fare  to  Cabin  John,  10  cents.  The 
trip  may  be  combined  with  a  visit  to  Georgetown,  in  which 
case  the  visitor  takes  the  Cabin  John  trolley  from  the  corner 
of  36th  St.  and  Prospect  Place  (upper  level  of  Georgetown 
Union  Station). 

This  forms  the  most  attractive  of  all  suburban  trolley 
rides  around  Washington.  After  leaving  Georgetown  the 
road  steadily  rises,  skirting  the  verge  of  the  Palisades  of  the 
Potomac,  with  constant  picturesque  glimpses  of  the  Potomac 
River,  and  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  far  below  on  the 
L.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  before  reaching  Glen  Echo  a 
good  view  is  had  of  the  Little  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  the 
title  of  which  is  misleading  as  they  are  not  correctly  speaking 
falls  at  all,  but  a  series  of  picturesque  rapids. 

From  this  point  the  road  runs  inland  through  farming  lands  until 
Glen  Echo  Park  is  reached.  This  is  a  sort  of  miniature  Coney  Island, 
the  attractions  including:  a  Military  Band,  free  open-air  moving  pic- 
tures, a  popular  dance  hall,  a  "Gravity  Railroad,"  a  "Jolly 
Jigger,"  a  "Derby  Racer,"  "Carrousel,"  etc.     Admission  to  Park  free. 

Half  a  mile  beyond,  at  the  terminal  of  the  line,  is  the 
*Cabin  John  Bridge,  one  of  the  most  noteworthy  achieve- 
ments of  stone-masonry  in  the  world.  It  was  constructed 
for  the  purpose  of  carrying  across  the  deep  ravine  of  Cabin 
John's  Run,  the  acqueduct  which  furnishes  Washington  with 
its  water  supply  from  the  Potomac  River  above  the  Great 
Falls. 

All  surveys,  projectcs  and  estimates  for  the  city's  water 
system,  including  Cabin  John  Bridge,  were  prepared  by 
Captain  M.  C.  Meigs.  The  actual  work  was  begun  in  1857, 
and  was  supervised  by  Jefferson  Davis,  then  Secretary  of 
War.     On   December   5th,   1863,   the   water   was   turned   into 


484  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

the  aqueduct,  but  the  Bridge  proper  was  not  completed:  until 
the  following  year.  The  present  parapet  walls  constructed 
in  1872-73,  are  of  red  sandstone  from  the  quarries  at  Seneca, 
located  about  seven  miles  further  N.  on  the  Potomac  River. 

Dimensions.  Cabin  John  Bridge  is  450  ft.  long  over  all,  including 
abutments;  a  single  span  of  220  ft.  and  a  rise  of  57.26  ft.  It  is  4.2  ft. 
thidk  at  the  crown,  20.4  ft.  wide  and  carries  a  brick  conduit  9  ft.  in 
diameter.  The  cut  stone  arcn  is  of  Quincy  (Mass.)  granite.  The 
rubble  and  spandrels  are  Seneca  sandstone,  and  the  abutments  are 
gneiss  from  Montgomery  Co.,  Maryland.  The  total  cost,  including  the 
parapet  walls,    was   $254,000. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Bridge,  about  half  way  up  the  curve 
of  the  arch,  are  two  inscriptions.  The  eastern  one  reads : 
"Union  Arch :  Chief  Engineer,  Captain  Montgomery  C. 
Meiggs,  U.  S.  Corps  of  Engineers.     Este  perpetuum." 

The  western  inscription  reads :  "Washington  Aque- 
duct, begun  A.D.  1853.  President  of  the  United  States, 
Franklin  Pierce;  Secretary  of  War,  Jefferson  Davis.  Build- 
ing finished  A.D.  1861.  President  of  the  United  States 
Abraham  Lincoln ;  Secretary  of  War,  Simon  Cameron."  At 
the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  the  name  of  Jefferson  Davis 
was  erased  from  this  inscription ;  and  the  space  remained 
blank  until  the  name  was  restored  by  Act  of  Congress  dur- 
ing the   second   Roosevelt   administration. 

The  names  Cabin  John  Bridge  and  Cabin  John  Run  are 
popularly  attributed  to  a  hermit  fisherman,  Captain,  or 
Cabin  John,  who  is  said  to  have  formerly  lived  at  the  junc- 
tion of  Cabin  John  Run  with  Bowie  Run.  Romantic  imagi- 
nations have  evolved  a  tradition  identifying  this  obscure  her- 
mit as  the  husband  of  the  "Female  Stranger"  whose  tomb- 
stone in  Alexandria  (p.  52)1)  still  stands  as  a  memorial  to'  an 
unsolved   mystery. 

b.     The  Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac 

The  *Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  the  one  great  phe- 
nomenon of  nature  within  the  environs  of  Washington,  is 
situated  two  miles  above  the  head  of  tide  water^  and  fifteen 
miles  N.  W.  of  Washington.  The  river  above  the  Falls  is 
143  ft.  higher  than  tide  water.  The  Maryland  side  of  the  Falls 
may  be  reached  from  Cabin  John  Bridge  by  automobile  along 
the  Conduit  Road,  built  over  the  Washington  Aqueduct. 

The  best  view  of  the  Great  Falls  is  from  the  south,  or 
Virginia,  bank  of  the  Potomac,  which  is  reached  with  some 


THiE  GREAT  FALLS  OF  THE  POTOMAC        485 

difficulty  from  the  Maryland  side  across  a  chain  bridge.  The 
simplest  route  is  via  the  Washington  and  Old  Dominion  Rail- 
zvay,  Great  Falls  Division,  a  trolley  line  with  terminus  in 
Georgetown  at  36th  and  M   Sts.     Round  trip  is  35  cents. 

The  average  running  time  from  the  terminus  is  from  45  to  50 
minutes.  The  average  intervals  throughout  the  day  are  45  minutes, 
but  during  the  afternoon  and  evening  the  cars  run  somewhat  more 
frequently. 

The  trolley,  after  crossing  the  Aqueduct  Bridge,  turns 
W.  through  Rosslyn,  Va.,  and  proceeds  in  a  fairly  direct  line 
through  an  undulating  farming  district,  barren  of  interest 
to  tourists.  Its  terminus  is  in  the  midst  of  Great  Falls  Park, 
situated  just  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Rapids  below  the 
Falls,  at  the  point  where  the  Potomac,  divided  by  gigantic 
bowlders  in  three  separate  channels,  reunites  in  a  churning 
caldron,  beyond  which  it  spreads  out  once  again  into  a  broad 
and  placid  river. 

The  trolley  terminus  in  Great  Falls  Park  is  only  a  few 
hundred  feet  S.  of  the  Falls.  The  path  winds  down  past  the 
Merry-go-round,  and  crosses  the  historic  *Canal  planned  and 
supervised  by  George  Washington  from  1784  to  1789. 

The  idea  of  the  so-called  "Washington  Canal"  was  conceived 
shortly  after  Washington  surrendered  command  of  the  Federal  army. 
He  left  Mt.  Vernon  September  1st,  1784  (as  is  shown  in  his  manu- 
script journal),  with  the  intention  of  visiting  his  lands  in  the  Ohio 
valley,  in  order  to  discover  the  shortest  and  best  communication  be- 
tween the  eastern  and  western  waterways,  and  to  facilitate,  so  far  as 
possible,  the  inland  navigation  ot  the  Potomac.  On  September  6th 
he  examined  at  Bath  a  "model  of  a  boat  constructed  by  the  ingenious 
Mr.  Rumsey."  It  was  this  model,  "propelled  by  mechanism  and  small 
manual  assistance  against  rapid  currents,"  that  encouraged  Washington 
to  undertake  the  colossal  task  of  constructing  a  canal  around  the 
Falls    on    the    Virginia    side. 

On  May  7th,  1785,  Washington  became  the  first  President  of  the 
Potomac  Co..  and  retained  this  office  until  his  election  as  President 
of  the  United   States. 

One  part  of  Washington's  project  was  to  establish  a  manufactur- 
ing city  adjoining  the  locks  of  the  proposed  canal  at  Great  Falls. 
This  city  which  was  to  be  known  as  Matildaville,  was  laid  out  and 
many  of  the  lots  sold,  and  a  few  structures  built.  All  that  remains 
today   are   a    few   ruins    and   the   historic   Dicky's,    a   century-old   tavern. 

Midway  to  the  river,  the  path  crosses  the  old  canal  at 
the  point  of  its  present  termination,  where  its  waters  flow 
down  through  the  ruined  foundations  of  Washington's  Mill. 
North  from  here  to  the  dam  the  canal  is  still  in  fair  pres- 
ervation, and  row-boats  may  be  hired  for  a  trip  upon  it 
(25c.  per  hour).  South  of  the  Mill  the  canal  is  dry  and  partly 
filled  in,  although  its   former  course  can  still  be  traced. 

Opposite  the  Mill,  where  the  lofty  bluff  overhangs  the 
river,  are  a  series  of  jutting  crags  on  which  a  look-out  plat- 


486  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

form  has  been  built,  commanding  the  best  view  of  the  Falls. 
On  the  southern  face  of  these  rocks  is  the  following  bronze 
tablet : 

"In  memory  of  George  Washington  of  Fairfax  County,  Va. 
Patriot,  Pioneer  and  Man  of  Affairs,  who  spent  in  developing  his 
country  the  life  he  risked  in  her  defence.  This  is  exemplified  in 
the  Patowmack  Company,  incorporated  to  build  the  Patowmack  Canal 
of  which  George  Washington  was  first  President.  Placed  by  Fairfax 
County  Chapter  D.  A.  R." 

The  visitor  should  not  fail  to  see  the  five  *Great  Locks 
of  the  Canal,  for  they  constitute  the  only  surviving  examples 
of  Washington's  engineering  skill.  They  are  all  situated  S. 
of  the  mill  and  are  reached  by  following  the  straight,  broad 
path  running  southward  between  the  dancing  pavilion  and 
the  Great  Falls  Inn  (specialty:  Black-Bass-and-Chicken 
Dinner). 

The  path  terminates  at  a  field,  where  a  sign-post  marked  "Dicky's" 
points  to  the  historic  old  farm-house  on  the  right.  Crossing  this  field 
diagonally  to  the  S.  W.  cor.  we  pass  around  a  second  cottage  and  through 
the  barnyard  behind.  Here  the  path  divides,  one  branch  ascending  the 
hill  on  the  R.,  the  other  dipping  down  into  the  hollow  on  the  L.,  leading 
to  the  locks.  It  is  only  a  five  minutes'  walk  from  the  farmhouse;  but 
the  path  is  hard  to  follow,  winding  in  and  out  of  thickets,  and  over  and 
under  the  trunks  of  fallen  trees. 

The  first  of  the  five  locks  is  situated  one  mile  from  the  beginning 
of  the  canal;  the  other  four  follow  at  intervals  of  a  few  hundred  feet. 
They  are  all  of  practically  the  same  dimensions:  ioo  ft.  long  by  12  ft. 
wide;  and  all  but  the  last  are  constructed  of  massive  blocks  of  Seneca 
brownstone  carefully  dressed  and  fitted.  The  fifth  lock  is  a  cut  50  ft. 
deep,  blasted  out  of  the  solid  rock  and  piercing  the  bluff  clear  to  the 
river.  Note  the  century-old  iron  rings  in  the  rocky  walls,  once  used 
for   mooring    the    canal-boats    during   passage    through    the    locks. 

The  entire  descent  accomplished  by  the  five  locks  from 
the  level  above  the  Great  Falls  to  that  below  the  Rapids  was 
76  ft.  At  the  Little  Falls,  3l/2  miles  below,  there  was  for- 
merly another  canal,  2.y2  miles  long,  with  three  locks  and  a 
descent  of  37  ft.  to  tide-water.  The  dimensions  of  both 
canals  were:  6  ft.  deep  and  25  ft.  wide. 

The  financial  decline  of  the  Potomac  Company  began  almost 
simultaneously  with  the  completion  of  the  locks.  It  was  found  that 
between  the  ice  of  winter,  the  swollen  waters  of  spring  and  the 
drought  of  late  summer,  there  were  few  months  when  boats  could 
come  and  go  in  safety.  After  a  quarter  of  a  century  the  project  of 
using  the  upper  Potomac  as  a  waterway  was  abandoned,  and  the 
Potomac  Company's  Charter  and  property  were,  in  1825,  transferred 
to   the    Chesapeake    and    Ohio    Canal    Company. 


THE  VIRGINIA  SUBURBS 

I.     Mt.  Vernon 

Mount  Vernon,  the  home  and  burial  place  of  George 
Washington,  is  situated  on  the  western  or  Virginia  side  of 
the  Potomac  River,  sixteen  miles  S.  of  the  National  Capital. 
The  grounds  and  Mansion  House  are  open  to  the  public 
daily,  except  Sundays,  as  follows :  from  November  ist  to 
March  31st,  10  A.M.  to  3.15  P.M.  (closing  hour  4  P.M.)  ; 
from  April  ist  to  October  31st,  9.30  A.M.  to  4.45  P.M. 
(closing  hour  5.30  P.M.).  Admission  fee  25  cents.  Refresh- 
ments and  light  lunches  may  be  obtained  outside  the  grounds, 
near  the  railway  terminal. 

Routes.  Mount  Vernon  may  be  reached  either  by  all- 
rail  or  by  all^water  routes;  also  by  Sight-Seeing  Cars  (p.  21). 
1.  The  all-rail  route  is  by  the  Washington-Virginia  Electric 
Raihvay  (p.  19)  from  city  terminal  at  12th  St.  and  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.,  via  Highway  Bridge,  Arlington  Junction  and 
Alexandria  (p.  512).  Through  cars  to  Mount  Vernon  run 
approximately  once  an  hour,  from  6.20  A.M.  to  11. 15  P.M. 
From  9  A.M.  to  3  P.M.  (the  only  hours  of  interest  to  the 
tourist)  the  cars  leave  on  the  even  hour.  Round  trip,  with 
stop-over  privileges  at  Alexandria,  80  cents.  Combination 
trip,  including  Mt.  Vernon,  Alexandria,  Arlington  and  Ft. 
Myer,  90  cents. 

The  cars  run  W.  on  C  St.  and  Ohio  Ave. ;  thence  S.  on 
14th  St.,  passing  (on  L.)  the  greenhouses  and  offices  of  the 
Agricultural  Department,  and  (on  R.)  the  Washington 
Monument,  and  the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing.  The 
car  now  curves  W.  through  Potomac  Park  and  crosses  the 
river  on  the  Highway  Bridge,  which  has  replaced  the 
historic  Long  Bridge  of  the  Civil  War  times.  From  the 
Bridge  a  fine  view  is  had  of  the  Potomac:  and  in  the 
distance  (on  R.)  the  Lincoln  Memorial,  and  on  the  Virginia 
side,  Arlington  Heights  with  the  National  Cemetery  and  the 
historic  Lee  Mansion;  also  the  Radio  Station  at  Ft.  Myer; 
and  (on  L.),  in  the  distance,  the  mouth  of  the  Anacostia 
'River,  Congress  Heights,  and  the  Government  Insane  Asylum. 
After  crossing  the  Bridge,  note  the  numerous  brick  kilns  on 
either  side  of  the  line,  the  manufacture  of  bricks  and  tiles 
being  one  of  the  leading  local  industries.  About  a  mile 
further  on  we  reach  Arlington  Junction  (13  min.  from 
-Washington),     where     the     cars     for     Arlington     and     Falls 


488  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Church  division  branch  off  to  the  R.  Not  far  beyond  this 
point  we  pass  the  site  of  Abington,  the  old  colonial  home- 
stead, about  four  miles  N.  of  Alexandria,  where  John  Parke 
Custis  lived  after  his  marriage  with  Eleanor  Calvert,  and 
where  Nellie  Custis  was  born.  The  line  presently  crosses 
a  long  bridge  at  Four  Mile  Run  (16  min.),  where  Wash- 
ington once  owned  considerable  property,  and  where  one  of 
his  mills  was  situated.  A  mile  beyond  we  pass  St.  Asaph,  the 
site  of  an  old  race-track:  and  further  S.,  on  the  hills  to  the 
R.,  are  Braddock's  Heights,  where  General  Braddock  and 
his  army  encamped  before  starting  on  his  ill-starred  cam- 
paign against  the  French  and  Indians  at  Ft.  Duquesne  (now 
Pittsburgh),  in  which  the  General  lost  his  life,  and  the 
remnant  of  his  army  was  saved  only  through  the  skill  of 
Washington,  then  a  young  Colonel  of  23  years. 

On  the  outskirts  of  Alexandria  the  line  passes  the 
Union  Station  {22  min.),  the  local  station  of  the  Richmond, 
Fredericksburg  and  Potomac  R.\R.;  and  the  Washington 
Southern  Railway.  At  Alexandria  (30  min.)  the  visitor 
should  certainly  stop  over  for  an  hour,  either  going  or  com- 
ing, because  of  the  numerous  historic  spots  intimately 
connected  with  Washington  (p.  512).  Even  from  the  car 
window,  however,  a  few  landmarks  can  be  briefly  glimpsed : 
as  the  car  passes  E.  on  King  St.,  the  historic  Christ  Church 
(p.  514),  where  Washington  attended  service,  isi  seen  one 
block  N.  on  Columbus  St.  One  block  E.  the  Confederate 
Monument  (p.  521)  stands  conspicuously  in  the  middle  of 
Washington  St.,  one  block  S.  The  Marshall  House  (p.  521), 
where  Col.  Ellsworth  was  assassinated,  is  passed  at  the  cor. 
of  King  and  Pitt  Sts. 

Soon  after  leaving  Alexandria  the  line  crosses  a  long 
bridge  over  the  broad  estuary  of  Big  Hunting  Creek.  On 
the  heights,  at  the  head  of  the  estuary,  during  the  Civil  War 
stood  Ft.  Lyon,  one  of  the  most  important  links  in  the 
ring  of  defenses  around  the  Capitol.  On  the  right  or  N. 
Bank,  a  short  distance  W.  of  Alexandria,  is  a  large  brick 
building,  the  old  Episcopal  Theological  Seminary  where  both 
Phillips  Brooks  and  Bishop  Potter  were  prepared  for  the 
ministry.  Opposite,  off  the  heights,  on  the  S.  side  of  Big 
Hunting  Creek,  is  Mount  Eagle  (still  standing  in  1917), 
formerly  the  home  of  Bryan  Fairfax,  son  of  William  of 
Belvoir,  and  half-brother  of  Lawrence  Washington's  wife, 
Anne,  first  mistress  of  Mt.  Vernon.  He  was  for  a  time 
Rector  of  Christ  Church,  Alexandria.  Washington  was  a 
frequent  visitor  at  Mount  Eagle,  and  in  his  will  he  remem- 
bered   Bryan    Fairfax   with    a    bequest    of    a    Bible    in    three 


U 


MT.   VERINON  489 

volumes.  On  the  left  or  E.  side  of  the  car  we  command 
an  extensive  view  of  the  Potomac,  with  Jones  Point  Light- 
house (p.  522)  plainly  in  view  at  the  southernmost  point  of 
the  city  of  Alexandria.  A  mile  further  on  may  be  seen  the 
location  of  Ft.  Foote,  on  the  Maryland  side  of  the  river. 
From  this  point  onward  the  line  runs  through  land  which 
was  formerly  the  eastern  portion  of  Washington's  8000-acre 
estate.  Just  beyond  Wellington  Station  is  seen,  some  dis- 
tance to  the  L.,  the  old  white  Wellington  House,  dating  from 
1768,  and  left  by  Washington's  will,  together  with  the  adjoin- 
ing farm  of  360  acres,  to  his  Secretary,  Tobias  I^ear,  for  the 
latter's  lifetime.  From  this  point  a  short  run,  through 
undulating  farmlands,  brings  the  visitor  to  the  terminus  at 
the  North  Lodge  Gate  of  the  Mt.  Vernon  grounds. 

Route  II.  All-water  route  by  steamboat,  Charles  Mac- 
alester  (Mount  Vernon  and  Marshall  Hall  Steamboat  Co., 
limited),  sailing  from  7th  St.  wharf  (at  foot  of  7th  St.  S.W.) 
daily,  except  Sundays,  as  follows :  from  November  1st  to 
April  30th,  at  9  A.M.  and  1.45  P.M.;  from  May  1st  to 
'October  31st  at  10  A.  M.  and  2.30  P.  M.  Dining-room  on 
steamer. 

The  steamer  descends  Washington  Channel  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Anacostia  River,  passing  (on  R.)  East  Potomac  Park, 
and  (on  L.)  Washington  Barracks  and  the  Army  War  Col- 
lege. To  the  N.  E.  is  a  view  of  the  Anacostia  River,  with 
Sewage  Pumping  Plant,  and  United  States  Navy  Yard  on 
L.  and  on  R.  Congress  Heights,  Anacostia  and  Twining  City. 

Conspicuous  on  Congress  Heights  is  the  group  of  build- 
ings constituting  the  Government  Hospital  for  the  Insane, 
known  as  St.  Elizabeth's,  because  located  on  a  tract  of  land 
formerly  bearing  that  name.  It  has  cost  upward  of  $1,000,- 
000,  and  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  finest  institutions  of  its 
kind  in  America.  The  Administration  Building  was  designed 
by  Shepley,  Rut  an  and  Cooledge.  Insane  persons  of  the 
Army  and  Navy  and  U.  S.  Marine  Corps  are  treated  here. 
Among  these  may  be  mentioned  Lieut.  Cushing  of  Torpedo- 
boat  fame,  and  Captain  McGiffin,  hero  of  the  Naval  battle 
of  the  Yalu,  in  the  China-Japan  war.  On  a  nearby  hill  is  the 
house  where  Frederick  Douglass  spent  hits,  last  years.  Gies- 
boro  Point,  on  the  Maryland  side,  just  below  the  Govern- 
ment Hospital  and  almost  opposite  the  estuary  known  as 
Four  Mile  Run,  is  a  low  level  stretch  of  land,  used  during 
the  Civil  War  as  a  drilling  station  and  cavalry  camp. 
Alexandria  and  Jones  Point  Lighthouse  are  presently  passed 
on    R.     A    mile   below,   on    L.,   we   pass   Fort   Foote,   made 


490  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

famous  during  the  Civil  War.  Further  S.,  also  on  the 
Maryland  side,  diagonally  opposite  and  about  a  mile  north  of 
Mount  Vernon,  is  Fort  Washington,  situated  on  the  former 
site  of  the  Warburton  Manor,  residence  of  the  Digges 
family. 

"Washington  and  Diggas  had  a  code  of  signals  between  Mount 
Vernon  and  Warburton,  and  when  the  signal  went  up  that  there  were 
guests  on  the  way  the  handsome  barges  which  each  house  maintained 
shot  out  from  the  shores  driven  by  the  oars  ofi  gaily  liveried  black  men, 
and  met  in  midstream  to  transfer  the  visitors."  (Paul  Wilstach, 
''Mount    Vernon."} 

The  site  of  Fort  Washington  was  recommended  by 
Washington  himself,  and  the  original  plans  were  drawn  by 
L'Enfant,  and  constituted  his  last  public  work.  The  first 
fortress  erected  there  in  1808  was  destroyed  in  1814,  when 
the  British  advanced  upon  the  Capital.  The  present  fortifi- 
cations were  built  in  1808.  Facing  Fort  Washington  on  the 
Virginia  side  is  Fort  Hunt,  one  of  the  most  up-to-date  forti- 
fications in  the  United  States.  Both  of  these  forts  are 
equipped  with  exceptionally  large  calibre  and  long  range 
guns,  said  to  command  the  river  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles. 

Near  Fort  Washington  is  a  Fish-hatching  Station,  main- 
tained by  the  United  States  Bureau  of  Fisheries  (p.  245). 
Directly  opposite  Mount  Vernon  is  Marshall  Hall,  the  one- 
time estate  of  Thomas  Hanson  Marshall,  who  served  under 
Washington  during  the  War  of  the  Revolution.  According 
to  tradition  this  spot  was  visited  by  Captain  John  Smith 
in  1608;  and  here  also  was  the  last  home  of  the  Indian 
Chief   Powhatan. 

The  steamer  here  swings  westward  to  its  Mount  Vernon 
dock,  several  hundred  feet  S.  of  the  Mansion,  and  nearly 
opposite  the  new  tomb.  As  the  steamer  approaches  the 
shore,  the  tourist  should  take  advantage  of  what  is  admit- 
tedly the  best  view  of  Mount  Vernon  and  the  adjacent  terri- 
tory. Note  especially,  to  the  south,  on  the  west  or  Virginia 
shore  of  the  Potomac,  beyond  Dogue  Creek,  some  high- 
lands, constituting  the  estate  of  Belvoir,  the  former  home 
of  William  Fairfax,  where  George  Washington  met  Thomas, 
Lord  Fairfax,  who  gave  him  his  first  employment  as  a 
surveyor. 

The    low    land    south    of    Belvoir    marks    the    sitei    of 
Dunston  Hall,  the  home  and  burial  place  of  George  Mason, 
intimate    friend   of   Washington   and   author   of   the   Bill  0 
Rights  and  the  Constitution  of  Virginia. 


* 


MT.  VERJNON  49* 

a.     History  of  Mt.  Vernon 

History  of  Mount  Vernon:  The  title  of  the  Washington 
family  to  Mount  Vernon,  early  known  as  the  Hunting  Creek 
Tract,  dates*  from  a  grant  made  in  1674  ,by  Lord  Culpeper 
to  Lieut.-Coll.  John  Washington  and  Col.  Nicholas  Spencer 
jointly,  consisting  of  5000  acres  "in  the  Ffreshes  of  the 
Pottomeek  River,  and  neare  opposite  to  Piscataway,  Indian 
towne  of  Mariland."  This  Col.  Washington,  known  as  John 
the  Emigrant,  was  the  first  member  of  the  family  to  come  to 
America,  and  was  destined  to  be  remembered  in  history  as  the 
great-grandfather  of  the  first  President  of  the  United  States. 

John  Washington  arrived  in  Virginia  about  1656,  and 
settled  on  the  lower  Potomac,  some  seventy  miles  below  the 
present  Capital,  on  a  modest  estate  subsequently  named  Wake- 
field. There  were  born  his  eldest  son,  Lawrence  and  there 
also  the  latter's  eldest  son,  Augustine,  the  first  of  the  family 
to  make  even  a  temporary  home  at  Mount  Vernon,  originally 
known  as  the  "Hunting  Creek  Tract."  Emigrant  John  be- 
queathed his  half  interest  in  the  undivided  5000  acres  to  his 
son  Lawrence  who,  in  1690,  thirteen  years  after  his  father's 
death,  effected  a  division  whereby  he  retained  the  eastern 
half,  facing  on  Little  Hunting  Creek,  while  the  Spencer 
family  received  the  western  half,  extending  along  Dogue 
Creek.  Lawrence  in  turn  bequeathed  his  2500  acres  to  his 
daughter,  Mildred,  who,  in  1726,  by  a  deed  executed  jointly 
by  herself  and  her  husband,  Roger  Gregory,  sold  her  title  to 
her  brother,  Augustine,  the  father  of  George  Washington. 
Some  years  later,  conjecturally  in  1735,  Augustine  moved  up 
the  river,  erected  the  first  dwelling  house  on  the  Mount 
Vernon  site,  and  there  established  his  family,  consisting  of 
his  second  wife,  Mary,  and  four  children  by  her,  namely: 
George,  Elizabeth,  Samuel  and  John  Augustine.  Charles, 
the  youngest  child,  was  born  in  the  new  home.  The  two 
older  sons  by  his  first  marriage,  Lawrence  and  Augustine, 
probably  had  already  gone  to  England,  where  they  were  to 
receive   their   education. 

George  Washington  was  at  this  time  less  than  four  year9 
old ;  consequently  this  was  the  earliest  of  his  several  child- 
hood homes  that  remained  in  his  memory,  and  undoubtedly 
his  life-long  affection  for  Mount  Vernon  began  then.  It  was 
here  that  the  more  or  less  apochryphal  episode  of  the  hatchet 
and  cherry  tree  is  reputed  to  have  taken  place. 

The  location  of  the  house  erected  by  Augustine  Wash- 
ington is  not  known,  but  a  favorite  conjecture  is  that  it  occu- 
pied the  site  of  the  present  Mansion ;  and  supporters  of  this 


4Q2  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

theory  claim  that  the  crumbling  condition  of  the  cellar  walls 
would  be  best  explained  by  exposure  to  the  intense  heat  inci- 
dent to  the  burning  ot  Augustine's  house,  completely  de- 
stroyed in  1739.  , 

Instead  of  rebuilding,  Augustine  removed  at  once  to 
another  of  his  several  properties,  located  near  Fredericks- 
burg. The  Hunting  Creek  Tract  was  subsequently  deeded, 
October  28th,  1740,  to  his  oldest  son,  Lawrence,  a  grant 
further  confirmed  by  his   will   in   1743. 

When  Lawrence  took  possession  of  his  estate  in  1740,  he 
found  abundant  cabins  for  the  slaves  and  shelters  for  the 
live-stock;  but  the  only  buildings  of  any  importance  that 
conjecturally  date  back  to  this  time  were:  1.  The  historic 
old  mill  at  the  head  of  Dogue  Creek,  which  survived  nearly 
to  the  time  of  the  Civil  War;  2.  The  venerable  brick  barn 
on  the  mount  overlooking  the  river,  which  still  stands  in 
excellent  preservation. 

Lawrence,  at  the  age  of  twenty-two,  had  little  inclination 
to  settle  down.  England  was  then  disciplining  the  Spanish 
West  Indies;  and  he  obtained  a  captain's  commission,  and 
served  for  two  years  under  Admiral  Vernon,  after  whom  he 
subsequently  re-named  his  estate  Mount  Vernon.  In  1743 
his  roving  days  were  ended  by  his  marriage  with  Anne,  the 
elder  daughter  of  his  neighbor,  William  Fairfax  of  Belvoir, 
situated  on  the  other  side  of  Dogue  Creek.  Four  children 
were  born  of  this  marriage,  all  of  whom  died  in  infancy. 
Consequently  the  lonely  couple  were  glad  to  encourage 
Lawrence's  young  brother,  George,  then  a  lad  in  hts  teens, 
to  pay  frequent  visits,  and  in  1747  he  came  to  Mount  Vernon 
as    his   permanent   home. 

The  original  or  central  part  of  the  Mansion,  whether 
erected  by  Augustus  for  his  son,  or  by  the  latter  (as  is 
indicated  by  the  initials  "L.  W."  carved  on  the  corner-stone 
formerly  in  the  cellar),  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  in 
the  early  40's.  It  was  but  two  stories  high,  and  barely  half 
its  present  length,  consisting  only  of  the  central  hallway, 
the  four  rooms  opening  off  of  it  on  the  ground  floor,  and 
the  five  bed-rooms  opening  off  of  it  on  the  second  floor. 
The  library  and  banquet-hall  wings,  the  curving  colonnades 
at  each  end  of  the  portico  on  the  river  front,  the  third  story 
and  cupola,  were  all  later  additions,  erected  during  the  first 
years  of  the  Revolution. 

After  a  winter  in  Bermuda,  whither  he  was  sent  in  a 
vain  hope  of  recovering  his  failing  health,  Lawrence  returned 
to  Mount  Vernon  in  time  to  die  under  his  own  roof,  July 
26th,  1752.  In  his  will  he  left  Mount  Vernon  to  his  infant 
daughter   Sarah,   with   a  life  interest  to  his   wife  Anne,   but 


MT.  VERNON  493 

provided  further  that  in  case  Sarah  died  without  issue  the 
estate  should  pass  to  his  brother  George.  Sarah  survived 
her  father  barely  two  months;  and  Anne,  finding  the  house 
haunted  by  many  painful  memories,  was  glad  to  return  to 
Belvoir,  and  having  soon  afterward  re-married,  sold  out  her 
life  interest  to  her  brother-in-law. 

For  the  next  seven  years  Mount  Vernon  saw  compara- 
tively little  of  its  new  master,  who  was  laying  the  founda- 
tions of  hiis>  military  fame.  It  is  not  definitely  known 
whether  during  this  period  he  took  any  steps  toward  intro- 
ducing the  wonderful  order  and  system  which  later  made 
Mount  Vernon  a  model  estate.  An  event  of  crucial  import- 
ance, however,  was  his  marriage  to  Martha  Dandridge  Custis, 
January  6th,  1759.  In  preparation  for  the  arrival  of  its 
new  mistress,  the  Mansion  was  extensively  renovated  and 
raised  upon  new  foundations,  for  which  15,000  bricks  were 
burned  on  the  place,  the  windows  were  reglazed,  the  roof 
reshingled  and  new  floors  laid  in  several  rooms. 

Washington  now  settled  down  to  the  busy  and  health- 
ful life  of  a  country  gentleman, — a  life  which  he  infinitely 
preferred  to  that  of  the  army  or  of  statesmanship.  For  the 
next  sixteen  years  he  devoted  himself  heart  and  soul  to  the 
expansion  and  development  of  Mount  Vernon,  acquiring  ad- 
jacent tracts  one  by  one,  until  he  had  not  only  recovered  all 
of  the  original  5000  acres  included  in  the  Washington-Spencer 
grant,  but  other  tracts  to  the  N.W.  and  to  E.  beyond  Little 
Hunting  Creek,  which  brought  his  total  holdings  up  to 
approximately  8000  acres. 

Although  Washington's  marriage  remained  childless  there 
was  no  lack  of  young  life  at  Mount  Vernon,  for  with  his 
wife  he  brought  to  Mount  Vernon  her  two  children  by  her 
former  marriage,  Martha  and  John  Parke  Custis.  Fourteen 
years  later  both  of  these  were  lost  to  Mount  Vernon  within 
a  space  of  six  months,  Martha  having  died  in  the  summer 
of  1773,  while  in  the  following  February  John  was  married 
to  Eleanor  Calvert  of  Mount  Airy,  and  settled  at  Abington, 
four  miles  above  Alexandria  (p.  488).  It  was  this  same 
year,  perhaps  in  order  to  take  his  mind  off  of  the  new 
loneliness,  Washington  busied  himself  with  plans  for  enlarg- 
ing the  Mansion  to  its  present  proportions.  The  changes 
included  an  increase  of  44  ft.  in  the  length  of  the  house 
through  additions  at  each  end  measuring  the  full  width  of 
the  original  edifice,  32  x  22  ft.  The  building  operations 
were  begun  in  the  fall  of  1773,  and  at  least  one  of  the  new 
additions  was  completed  in  1775.  Meanwhile,  the  outbreak 
of  the  war  took  Washington  from  Mount  Vernon,  and  the 


494  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

work  on  the  building  lagged.  It  was  completed,  however, 
in  1778,  including  the  curving  colonnades  and  the '  lofty 
portico.  After  the  close  of  the  war  Washington  ^  enjoyed 
another  grateful  respite  of  five  years  from  public  life,  dur- 
ing which  time  he  was  seldom  many  miles  from  Mount  Ver- 
non. It  was  during  these  years  that  he  devoted  himself 
especially  to  the  final  decoration  and  embellishment  of  the 
estate.  From  this  period  date  the  Deer  Park,  the  "ha-ha" 
walls,  the  great  enclosed  two-acre  lawn  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Mansion,  surrounded  by  a  carriage  drive,  which  Washington 
called  his  Serpentine  Road;  and  the  two  walled  gardens 
devoted  respectively  to  vegetables  and  flowers. 

During  this  period  also  the  old  Mansion  once  more 
echoed  children's  voices  and  laughter.  John  Parke  Custis 
died  in  the  fall  of  1781,  leaving  three  daughters  and  a  son. 
The  youngest  girl,  Eleanor,  and  the  boy,  George  Washington 
Custis,  were  adopted  by  Washington,  and  until  his  death 
Mount  Vernon  was  their  home. 

The  choice  of  Washington  as  the  nation's  first  President 
once  more  necessitated  a  prolonged  absence  from  Mount 
Vernon,  to  which  he  bid  farewell  April  16th,  1789.  During 
the  eight  years  of  his  two  terms  he  was  able  to  make  only 
fifteen  comparatively  brief  visits  to  his  estate,  amounting 
collectively  to  434  days,  or  a  little  more  than  fourteen  months 
altogether.  He  managed,  however,  through  weekly  reports  to 
maintain  a  precise  knowledge  of  all  the  details  of  what  was 
happening  at  home,  and  directed  at  long  distance  the  planting 
and  harvesting  of  his  crops,  the  necessary  building  and  re- 
pairs, and  the  engaging,  discharging  and  disciplining  of  his 
servants  and  slaves.  With  all  the  cares  of  public  office  he 
found  time  to  plan  and  erect  several  new  and  important  build- 
ings, including  a  sixteen-sided  barn  of  his  own  invention  on 
Dogue  Run  farm. 

On  April  1st,  1798,  Washington,  rejoicing  in  his  release 
from  the  long  strain  of  public  service,  arrived  once  more  at 
Mount  Vernon  for  his  last  brief  residence  of  less  than  two 
years.  Life  at  the  Mansion  had  never  been  gayer  than  at 
this  time.  Young  Custis  was  away  most  of  the  time  at 
college;  but  his  sister  Nellie,  who  had  developed  into  a 
beautiful  young  woman  verging  upon  twenty,  was  constantly 
surrounded  by  a  large  circle  of  cousins  and  friends.  It  was 
at  this  time,  under  the  approving  eyes  of  the  General  and 
Mrs.  Washington,  that  her  inevitable  romance  ran  its  course ; 
and  on  February  22d,  1799,  she  was  married  in  the  Mansion 
"about  candle-light,"  to  Lawrence  Lewis,  the  son  of  Wash- 


MT.  VERJSBON  495 

ington's  sister  Betty.  It  was  also  at  Mount  Vernon  that  her 
first  and  second  children  were  born,  the  elder  on  November 
27th,   1799. 

Early  in  December  Washington  pointed  out  to  Lawrence 
Lewis  the  spot  where  he  intended  to  build  a  new  burial  vault 
to  replace  the  older  one  which  had  been  built  soon  after  the 
death  of  his  brother  Lawrence,  and  which  had  begun  to  dis- 
integrate. This,  he  said,  was  to  be  the  next  improvement  he 
would  make,  adding,  "for  after  all,  I  may  require  it  before 
the  rest."  On  December  12th,  during  his  customary  ride 
over  his  farms,  Washington  was  overtaken  by  a  storm  of 
mingled  snow,  hail  and  sleet.  He  seemed  the  next  day  none 
the  worse  for  his  drenching  beyond  a  slight  cold,  for  which 
he  refused  to  take  remedies.  Early  the  following  morning, 
however  (Saturday,  December  14th),  he  awoke,  realizing  that 
he  was  seriously  ill.  Dr.  Craik  and  Dr.  Dick  of  Alexandria, 
and  Dr.  Brown  of  Port  Tobacco,  were  summoned,  and  diag- 
nosed his  malady  as  what  was  then  called  quinsey.  He  died 
shortly  after  10  o'clock  P.  M.  On  Wednesday,  December  18th, 
he  was  buried  with  Masonic  ceremonials  in  the  old  family 
vault. 

In  accordance  with  the  custom  of  the  time  Washington's 
•bed-chamber  was  closed,  and  his  widow  moved  to  a  room 
directly  above  it,  on  the  third  floor,  from  the  dormer  window 

of  which  she  could  look  out  upon  his  tomb.    She  survived 
him  but  little  more  than  two  years,  passing  away  May  22d, 

1802. 

By  the  General's  will  his  estate  was  to  be  kept  intact  for 
the  use  of  Martha  Washington  during  her  life.  With  her 
death  began  the  breaking  up  of  the  large  property  which 
he  had  so  industriously  accumulated.  To  Bushrod  Washing- 
tonr  son  of  his  brother,  John  Augustine,  he  left  the  main 
tract  of  upward  of  4000  acres,  lying  between  Little  Hunting 
Creek  and  Dogue  Creek,  and  including  the  Mansion  House. 
The  River  farm  of  approximately  2000  acres,  situated  E.  of 
Little  Hunting  Creek,  he  left  to  the  two  sons  of  George 
Augustine  Washington,  son  of  his  youngest  brother,  Charles. 
The  balance  of  the  estate,  some  2000  acres  on  the  N.  W.  side, 
he  bequeathed  to  Lawrence  Lewis. 

Bushrod  Washington  was  master  of  Mount  Vernon  for 
twenty-seven  years,  dying*  November  26th,  1829.  By  Lis  will 
his  share  of  the  original  estate  was  further  sub-divided  among 
his  nephews  and  a  niece,  the  portion  containing  the  Mansion 
going  to  John  Augustine  Washington,  third  child  of  his 
brother   Corbin,   who,    dying  three  years   later,   left   it   to  his 


4Q6  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

widow,  Jane.  It  was  during  John  Augustine's  brief  tenure, 
in  1831,  that  the  General's  expressed  desire  to  have  a  new 
family  vault  erected,  was  at  last  fulfilled.  Upon  the  marriage, 
in  1843,  of  their  eldest  son,  also  named  John  Augustine,  his 
mother  retired  to  another  property  in  Jefferson  Co.,  leaving 
him  in  full  possession  of  Mount  Vernon,  which  in  1850  she 
conveyed  to  him  by  deed  of  gift,  thus  making  him,  as  it 
subsequently  proved,  the  last  of  his  name  to  own  the  historic 
Mansion. 

Mount  Vernon  was  at  thii&  time  in  a  ruinous  state  of 
dilapidation,  and  its  new  owner  lacked  the  funds  required  for 
repairs.  Nevertheless  his  reverence  for  the  traditions  of  the 
place  was  such  that  he  many  times  refused  large  sums  offered 
by  speculators,  being  determined  to  sell  only  to  the  National 
Government  or  to  the  State  of  Virginia.  In  fact  he  offered 
the  property  to  both  Governments  at  their  own  price,  but  in 
both  cases  met  with  refusal. 

The  problem  was  finally  solved  through  the  initiative  of 
a  patriotic  daughter  of  South  Carolina,  Miss  Ann  Pamela 
Cunningham,  founder  and  first  Regent  of  the  Mount  Vernon 
Ladies'  Association  of  the  Union.  The  purpose  of  this  Asso- 
ciation, incorporated  March  16th,  1856,  was  to  raise  funds 
for  the  purchase  and  restoration  of  the  Mansion  House,  and 
thereafter  to  maintain  it  in  perpetuity.  Their  first  act  was 
to  obtain  from  Mr.  Washington  a  contract  for  the  sale  oi* 
the  Mansion,  including  202  surrounding  acres,  for  $200,000, 
the  time-limit  for  final  payment  being  four  years. 

A  campaign  for  funds',  on  a  bafeis  of  dollar  contributions, 
was  instituted  throughout  the  country,  and  a  large  portion  of 
the  money  was  collected  in  small  amounts.  A  conspicuous 
exception,  and  the  largest  single  donation  received,  was  the 
fund  raised  by  the  Hon.  Edward  Everett  of  'Massachusetts,  in 
the  course  of  four  years,  through  public  lectures  and  mag- 
azine articles,  amounting  altogether  to  upward  of  $68,000. 
The  final  payment  was  made  in  December,  1859,  and  the  Asso- 
ciation took   formal  possession   February  22d,   i860. 

The  work  of  restoration,  which  was  pushed  rapidly  during 
the  ensuing  weeks,  was  abruptly  halted  by  the  Civil  War. 
It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  throughout  the  war  Mount  Vernon 
was  treated  by  the  soldiers  of  both  armies  as  neutral  ground, 
and  the  Blues  and  the  Grays  both  obeyed  the  request  to  leave 
their  arms  outside,  and  met  without  hostility  beside  Wash- 
ington's grave. 

For  twenty  years  after  the  war  little  was  done  in  the 
way  of  restoration,  the  society  finding  that  its  available  funds 
barely  sufficed  to  arrest  the  progress  of  decay.     Since   1886, 


MT.   VERNON  497 

however,  the  restoration  of  buildings  and  grounds  to  their 
original  condition  has  been  accomplished  with  thoroughness 
and  success.  The  board  of  Vice-Regents  apportioned  the 
work  among  their  several  states  so  that  each  room  in  the 
Mansion  Hiouse  is  in  the  care  of  one  particular  state.  The 
summer-house,  S.  of  the  Mansion,  was  rebuilt  in  1886,  with 
money  raised  by  the  school  children  of  Louisiana.  The  old 
tomb  was  restored  in  1887,  by  contributions  from  the  State 
of  Michigan.  The  concrete  sea-wall  and  wharf -house  were 
given  in  1891  by  the  late  Mrs.  Phoebe  A.  Hearst  of  California. 
The  iNorth  Lodge  Gates  were  erected  in  1892  by  "patriotic 
citizens  of  Texas."  The  original  brick  garden  walls,  screen 
walls  and  "ha-ha"  walls  have  at  last  all  been  restored,  and  in 
some  cases  largely  rebuilt :  the  'North  "ha-ha"  wall  in  1896, 
the  South  in  1910  and  the  West  in  1915.  The  latest  restora- 
tions of  the  Mansion  itself  were  the  reshingling  of  the  roof 
in  1913,  and  the  repaving  of  the  portico  in  1914.  After  a 
protracted  search  the  source  of  the  original  sandstone  blocks, 
laid  by  Washington  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War, 
was  at  last  discovered.  They  were  from  an  ancient  quarry 
on  the  estate  of  Lord  Lonsdale,  near  Whiting,  England,  and 
a  new  supply  of  blocks  was  obtained  for  the  work  of  re- 
storation. 

The  holdings  of  the  Association  now  amount  to  237J/2 
acres,  thanks  to  ia  33-acre  tract  presented,  in  1887,  by  jay 
Gould  of  New  York  City,  who  acquired  the  tract  in  question 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  Mansion,  to  defeat  a  proposed  plan  for 
desecrating  it  by  the  establishment  of  an  amusement  park. 

Visitors  arriving  at  Mount  Vernon  by  the  electric  railway 
enter  the  grounds  through  the  North  Lodge  Gates,  which 
while  harmonizing  with  the  general  spirit  and  architectural 
detail  of  their  surroundings,  are  wholly  new,  having  been 
erected  in  1892  by  the  Masons  and  other  patriotic  citizens  of 
Texas.  Following  the  main  driveway,  we  approach  the 
Mansion  House  from  the  W.,  skirting  the  two-acre  expanse 
of  shield-shaped  lawn,  surrounded  by  what  Washington  him- 
self named  his  "Serpentine  Road,"  and  ending  ini  a  circle,  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  a  Sun  Dial  (gift,  ini  1888,  of  the  citi- 
zens of  Rhode  Island,  to  replace  the  one  with  which  Wash- 
ington daily  compared  his  watch).  Fronting  on  this  circle 
and  half  enclosing  it  stands  the  Mansion  House,  with  its  curv- 
ing colonnades  extending  to  the  Lodgings  for  White  Servants 
on  the  L.  and  to  the  Kitchen  and  Servants'  Hall  on  the  R. 
Parallel  with  the  Mansion  and  in  direct  line  with  the  Sun 
Dial  are  the  North  and  South  Lanes,  the  former  passing: 
(on   W.)    a.    The    Tailor   and    Shoemaker    Shop;    b.    Car- 


498  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

penter  Shop;  c.  Spinning  House;  d.  (on  E.)  Blacksmith 
Shop;  the  latter  passing :  (on  W.)  a.  Store  House;  b.  Smoke 
House;  c.  Wash  House;  d.  Coach  House;  e.  Old  Brick 
Stable.  Visitors  arriving  by  steamboat  land  at  the  pier  at 
the  southerly  portion  of  the  grounds  and  approach  the  house 
along  this  same  iSouth  Lane. 

b.     The  Mansion  House 

Main  Floor,  Central  Hall.  On  the  W.  facade  is  a 
large  central  door,  with  original  brass  knocker,  which  opens 
into  a  spacious  Central  Hall  (10x30  ft.),  with  stairs  ascend- 
ing in  S'.  W.  cor.,  and  doors  opening  on  S.  side  into'  Sitting 
Room  and  Family  Dining  Room,  and  on  N.  side  into  the 
West  Parlor  and  Music  Room.  This  hall  contains,  on  S.  wall, 
in  crystal  case,  the  *Key  of  the  Bastille  (of  wrought  iron, 
7  in.  long),  sent  by  Lafayette  to  Washington  after  capture  of 
the  Bastille,  together  with  the  model  of  that  prison  now  in 
the  Banquet  Hall.  Below  it  hangs  a  facsimile  of  Lafayette's 
agreement  to  serve  in  the  American  Army,  On  the  N.  wall 
hang  four  of  Washington's  swords*:  1.  The  sword  used  dur- 
ing the  Braddock  campaign;  2.  His  dress  sword,  worn  at 
his  Annapolis  resignation,  on  his  inauguration  as  President  in 
New  York,  and  on  other  state  occasions;  3.  His  dress  sword, 
with  Latin  inscription  signifying  "Do  What  is  Right,"  and 
"Fear  no  Man" ;  4.  A  Prussian  sword  made  and  presented 
to  Washington  by  one  Theophilus  Alt,  a  famous  sword  maker 
of  Solingen.  From  the  ceiling  hangs  the  old  crystal  and 
wrought-iron  lantern  which  according  to  tradition  was  given 
to  Lawrence  Washington  by  Admiral  Vernon.  Nearby  is  the 
original  deed  given  by  Lord  Culpeper  to  Nicholas  Spencer 
and  John  Washington  for  the  tract  on  which  Mount  Vernon 
now  stands.     Reached  through  the  N.   E.  door  is  the — 

East  Parlor  or  Music  Room.  (17x11  ft.).  Contains 
the  Harpsichord  which  Washington  imported  from  London 
for  Nelly  Custis ;  Washington's  rosewood  flute;  two  of  Wash- 
ington's chairs,  and  the  famous  Houdon  bust.  The  cabinet 
in  N.  E.  cor.  contains  several  pieces  of  original  tableware, 
Washington's  spectacles,  green  goggles,  cane,  etc.  Most  of 
the   furniture  consists  of   reproductions. 

The  N.  W.  door  to  the  Main  Hall  opens  into  the  — 

West  Parlor  (17x17  ft.).  This  room  is,  as  nearly  as 
possible,  a  restoration  of  the  original.  Above  the  mantel,  at 
N.  E.  cor.,  is  carved  the  Washington  Coat-of -arms,  and  his 
crest  and  initials  are  cast  in  the  iron  fireback.  The  old  paint- 
ing  above   the   mantel,    supposed   to   depict    part  of   Admiral 


MT.  VERNON  499 

Vernon's  fleet  at  Carthagena,  was  given  to  Lawrence  Wash- 
ington iby  the  Admiral  in  1743.  The  circular  rug  of  dark 
green  with  American  Eagle  in  centre,  was  made  for  Wash- 
ington by  order  of  Louis  XVI  of  France.  Several  chairs  in 
this  room  belonged  to  Washington,  including  one  in  brown 
and  gold,  and  a  white  enamel  chair  upholstered  with  satin 
brocade  from  Lafayette's  birthplace,  the  Chateau  de 
Chavagniac. 

Directly  opposite  the  West  Parlor,  across  the  Hall,  we 
reach,  through   S.   W.  door  the — 

Family  Dining  Room  (17  x  15  ft.).  The  original  articles 
in  this  room  include:  A  Chippendale  Sideboard  (presented 
to  the  Association  by  Mrs.  Robert  E.  Lee)  ;  a  sixteen-gallon 
Wine  Chest,  and  four  Wine  Decanters,  a  pair  of  pitchers  and 
a  portrait  of  David  Rittenhouse.  The  ornamented  fireback 
from  Belvoir,  country  seat  of  Lord  Fairfax,  Washington's 
early  friend  and  patron.  The  china  in  corner  cupboard  is  a 
reproduction  of  set  presented  to  Martha  Washington  by  officers 
of  the  French  fleet  in  1792.  The  portraits  on  wall  include 
Generals  Marion,  Pickens,  Sumter  and  Moultrie,  and  Baron 
De  Kalb. 

East  of  the  Dining  Room  is  Mrs.  Washington's  Sitting 
Room  (earlier  Washington's  study  or  library).  It  contains  a 
mirror  and  card  table  belonging  to  the  Washingtons ;  also 
four  prints  which  hung  here  in  Washington's  time :  "The 
Siege,"  two  representing  "The  Defense,"  and  "The  Relief  of 
Gibraltar."  A  mahogany  chair  presented  to  Washington  by 
Lafayette  is  also  here. 

Since  these  rooms  are  all  railed  off,  either  wholly  or  in 
part  (allowing  ingress  only  far  enough  to  inspect  objects  in 
some  corner  cabinet),  visitors  must  pass  out-doors  in  order 
to  reach  the  rooms  in  the  N.  and  S.  wings — taking  this  op- 
portunity to  inspect  the  stately  eight-columned  portico  on  the 
river  side,  and  to  enjoy  the  magnificent  view  of  the  Potomac 
River. 

The  *Banquet  Hall,  in  the  N.  wing  (30  x  22  ft.)  con- 
tains the  one  complete  group  in  the  whole  Mansion  placed 
today  exactly  as  in  Washington's  time.  Here,  on  S.  wall,  is 
the  mantelpiece  of  Carrara  and  Siena  marble,  presented  to 
Washington  by  Samuel  Vaughan  of  London.  On  the  mantel 
stand  the  original  rosewood  pedestals,  clock,  candlesticks  and 
vases,  and  over  it  are  the  original  wall  lamps.  Within  the 
fireplace  are  the  identical  firedogs  presented  by  Lafayette. 
On  the  mahogany  claw-foot  dining  table  (similar  in  design 
to  the  original)  is  the  identical  plateau  of  mirror-glass  and 
silver  used  by  Washington  on  state  occasions.     The  Banquet 


5oo  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Room  is  a  veritable  museum  of  Washingtoniana — and  as  else- 
where in  the  Mansion  all  objects  are  fully  labelled.  Here  is, 
the  model  of  the  Bastille,  carved  from  one  of  the  stones  of 
its  prison  walls,  and  sent  by  Lafayette,  together  with  the 
Bastille  key  (p.  498)  ;  here  also  is  a  painting,  .by  Beck,  of  the 
Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac  (where  Washington  built  an  iron 
foundry  and  started  his  abortive  plans  for  a  canal).  In  the 
relic  cabinet  are  Washington's  punch  bowl,  his  gold  watch 
and  silver  spectacles,  the  needle-book  which  he  used  at  Valley 
Forge ;  also  various  silver  spoons,  champagne  g'asses,  silver 
toilet  articles  and  locks  of  General  and  Mrs.  Washington's 
hair.  The  relics  in  this  room  also  include  Mrs.  Washington's 
needle-book,  her  carved  and  painted  ivory  fan,  some  old  point 
lace  worn  by  her,  and  several  letters  written  by  her  to  Nellie 
Custis. 

The  Library  (one  of  the  rooms  added  by  George  Wash- 
ington) was  designed  for  his  study,  and  the  bookcases  are 
built  into  the  walls.  Very  few  of  the  original  books  are  now 
on  the  shelves ;  the  others  have  been,  so  far  as  possible,  re- 
placed with  duplicates.  When  Bushrod  Washington's  heirs, 
in  1848,  offered  for  sale  the  bulk  of  their  grand-uncle's  library, 
a  group  of  patriotic  Americans  rescued  it  from  a  prospective 
English  purchaser  and  presented  the  books  to  the  Boston 
Atheneum,  where  they  still  remain. 

"The  inventory  of  books  in  Washington's  library  .  .  .  does  not 
furnish  satisfactory  material  far  a  study  of  Washing-ton's  taste  in 
reading,  for  the  books  represent  his  selection  only  in  part.  ...  It 
is  interesting  to  observe  that  the  books  on  all  other  than  agricultural 
topics  were  in  the  cases  behind  glass.  The  books  on  farming,  however, 
were  'on  the  table,'  where  the  General  could  reach  them  handily.  This 
subject  formed  the  principal  and  almost  the  only  topic  of  his  reading." 
— Paul   Wilstachj    ''Mount    Vernon." 

The  Second  Floor  contains  the  following  rooms :  the  so- 
called  Lafayette  Room  and  the  River  Room,  on  N.  of  Central 
Hall ;  Nellie  Custis'  Room  and  the  Guest  Room,  on  S.  side  of 
the  Hall ;  and  George  Washington's  Bed-Chamber,  in  S.  wing, 
reached  directly  by  stairway  from  his'  library.  The  cab'net 
in  the  Upper  Hall  contains  several  Washington  relics,  includ- 
ing his  surveying  compass,  spyglass,  telescope,  leather  fire 
buckets  and  an  ivory  headed  cane,  the  gift  of  Louis  XVI. 

In  Nellie  Custis'  Room  is  a  quaint  old-fashioned  high 
bed  reached  by  carpeted  steps ;  and  all  the  furnishings,  includ- 
ing the  brass  handled)  chest  of  drawers,  are  of  the  period. 
One  of  the  chairs  and  the  folding  washstand  were  originally 
in  the  home  of  Charles  Carroll  of  Carrollton,  "suspected  of 
sentimental  intentions  in  regard  to  Nellie  Custis."  A  framed 
autograph  letter  of  Lawrence  Lewis  hangs  above  the  mantel. 


MT.  VERNON  501 

Lafayette's  Room  owes  its  name  to  having  once  been 
occupied  by  Lafayette.  The  room  contains  several  engravings, 
including  copies  of  portraits  of  Washington  (the  Lansdowne 
Stuart),  of  Martha  Washington,  by  IVallaston,  and  of 
Lafayette,  by  Ary  Sheffer. 

The  *Washington  Bed  Chamber  is  of  special  historic 
interest,  for  it  contains  the  identical  bed  upon  which  George 
Washington  died,  occupying  its  original  position.  Here  also 
is  the  chair  on  which,  at  the  moment  of  his  death,  lay  the 
Bible  from  which  Mrs.  Washington  had  been  reading  to  him. 
The  remaining  furniture  also  is  all  original :  the  mahogany 
table;  the  haircloth  coach  chest,  bearing  date  1775,  and  initials 
'Mj.  W." ;  also  a  large  chair  once  belonging  to  Washington's 
mother. 

Mrs.  Washington's  Room.  After  the  General's  death 
Mrs.  Washington  closed  his  bed  chamber  and  moved  to  one  on 
the  third  floor,  directly  over  the  one  she  had  occupied  with 
her  husband,  because  from  its  dormer  window  she  could  look 
upon  his  tomb.  This  room  she  continued  to  occupy  until  her 
death  on  May  22,  1802.  The  furniture  in  this  room  includes : 
the  original  washstand,  dressing  glass,  tea-stand  owned  by 
Mrs.  Washington,  and  a  Washington  desk  and  chair. 

The  Kitchen,  reached  through  the  southernmost  of  the 
curved  and  colonnaded  passages  dating  from  1778,  still  has 
the  original  great  fireplace  and  well-preserved  brick  oven.  The 
most  interesting  feature  of  the  fireplace  is  the  "smoke-jack," 
a  slender  belt  chain  running  over  a  flanged  wheel  at  the  end 
of  the  spit,  and  operated  by  a  circular  fan  in  the  chimney,  kept 
in  motion  by  the  draft. 

c.     The   Grounds 

•  The  present  quiet  row  of  neat  white  little  buildings  that 

line  the  North  and  South  Lanes  give  little  suggestion  of  the 

activity  which  they  formerly  witnessed : 

"Near  the  big  house  grew  up  little  houses  of  all  sorts.  In  one  the 
shuttle  bobbed  bade  and  forth  through  the  great  loom;  in  another 
buzzed  a  whole  battery  of  spinning  wheels.  In  one  year  at  Mount 
Vernon  a  man  and  four  girls  wove  ...  a  total  of  1365^  yards  (of 
linen,  woolen,  linsey  and  cotton).  .  .  .  Across  the  lawn  the  laundry 
rang  with  the  music  of  washboard  and  mangle.  Its  neighbor,  the  dairy, 
was  scarcely  less  active  with  the  gallons  of  milk  to  skim,  the  butter  to. 
churn  and  the  cheese  to  prepare.  A  nearby  smokehouse  .  .  .  was 
the   one   quiet   house   in   the   group." — Paul   Wilstach,    "Mount    Vernon." 

Following  the  South  Lane  from  beyond  the  kitchen,  we 
pass  successively  the  Smoke  House,  the  Wash  House,  the  Old 
Coach  House,  containing  an  oldtime  chaise,  which  according 
to  tradition  was  used  by  Washington;  and  just  beyond  is 
the  Barn,  the  oldest  building  at  Mount  Vernon,  said  to  have 


502  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

been   erected    by   Washington's    father   in    1733.     Further    S., 
between  the  lane  and  river  is  — 

The  Old  Tomb,  within  a  square  enclosure,  surrounded  by 
a  low  brick  wall,  surmounted  by  a  high  iron  picket  fence. 

This  is  the  tomb  built  by  George  Washington  (in  1752)  in  fulfil- 
ment of  the  directions  in  the  will  of  his  brother  Lawrence,  "that  a 
proper  vault,  for  interment,  may  be  made  on  my  home  plantation, 
wherein  my  remains  together  with  my  three  children  may  be  decently 
placed."  The  vault  was  built  of  brick  and  sandstone,  and  is  sunken 
into  the  green  bank  so  as  to  seem  part  of  the  hillside.  For  nearly  ioo 
years  it  held  the  remains  of  all  members  of  the  family  whoi  died  at 
Mount  Vernon.  At  the  time  of  the  General's  death  the  opening  of  the 
old  vault  was  closed  with  a  brickj  wall,  which  had  to' be  torn  away,  and 
by  Mrs.  Washington's  direction  was  replaced  by  a  wooden  door,  for 
she  said  prophetically,  "It  will  soon  be  necessary  to  open(  it  again." 

After  the  interment  of  Martha  Washington,  the  old  tomb  suc- 
cessively received  the  remains  of  Judge  Bushrod  Washington,  in  Nov., 
1829,  and  of  his  wife,  who  survived  him  a  few  days  only;  also  of  John 
Augustine  Washington,  who  died  in  1832,  after  barely  two  years' 
ownership    of   the    estate. 

By  this  time  the  old  tomb,  overgrown  with  vigorous  trees  which 
doomed  it  to  perpetual  dampness  and  drove  their  destructive  roots 
through  its  roof  and  walls,  had  fallen  into  sad  decay;  and  the  wooden 
casings  of  the  General's  leaden  casket  had  been  three  times  destroyed. 
It  was  not,  however,  until  an  abortive  attempt  was  made,  about  1830, 
to  steal  the  body  of  Washington  from  the  tomb,  that  Lawrence  Lewis 
and  G.  W.  P.  Custis,  surviving  executors  under  the  General's  will,  took 
steps  to  carry  out  his  wish  as  expressed  in  the  following  clause: 

"The  family  Vault  at  Mount  Vernon  requiring  repairs,  and  being 
improperly  situated  besides,  I  desire  that  a  new  one  of  Brick  and  upon 
a  larger  scale,  may  be  built  at  the  foot  of  what  is  commonly  called  the 
vineyard  enclosure  ...  in  which  my  remains,  with  those  of  my 
deceased  relatives  (now  in  the  Old  Vault),  and  such  others  of  my  family 
as  may  choose  to  be  entombed  there,  may  be  deposited." 

In  1 83 1  the  new  tomb  was  completed,  and  the  remains  of  all 
deceased  members  of  Washington  family  were  transferred  to  it  from 
the  old  vault.  From  that  time  the  old  tomb  was  abandoned  and  allowed 
to  decay;  until,  in  1887,  it  was  reclaimed  by  contributions  from  the 
State  of  Michigan.  The  capstone,  inscribed  "Washington  Family," 
long  missing,  was  rediscovered,  serving  as  a  carriage  block  at  Wood- 
lawn  Mansion  (the  home  of  Lawrence  and  Eleanor  Lewis),  and  restored 
to   its   former!   place. 

The  New  Tomb  stands,  as  directed  by  Washington's  will, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Vineyard  Enclosure,  and  immediately  at 
the  head  of  the  path  leading  from  the  steamboat  landing.  Its 
small  dimensions  and  modest  brick  design  also  accord  with 
Washington's  desires.  The  rear  portion,  extending  into  the 
bank,  and  enclosed  by  iron  doors,  contains  the  remains  of 
Major  Lawrence  Lewis  (d.  1839),  Judge  Bushrod  Washington 
(d.  1829),  his  wife,  Ann  Washington  (d.  1829),  John  Augustine 
Washington  (d.  1832),  his  sister,  Mary  Lee  Herbert  (d.  1852) 
and  his  wife,  Jane  C.  Washington  (d.  1855),  after  which,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  the  tomb  was  locked  and  the  key  thrown 
into  the  Potomac. 


MT.  VERNON  5°3 

The  open  Vestibule  in  front  of  the  vault,  where  rest  the 
Marble  Sarcophagi  containing  the  remains  of  George  and 
Martha  Washington,  was  a  later  addition  to  the  tomb,  and  not 
completed  until  1837.  Its  erection  incidentally  grew  out  of  a 
revival  of  the  often  agitated  proposal  to  remove  the  bodies  of 
Washington  and  his  wife  to  the  crypt  of  the  Capitol.  At  this 
time  John  Struthers,  of  Philadelphia,  received  permission 
from  the  Government  to  present  sarcophagi  for  their  bodies, 
which  he  chiseled  from  solid  blocks  of  marble.  When  the 
plan  to  remove  the  bodies  was  abandoned  Mr.  Struthers  pre- 
sented the  sarcophagi  to  the  Washington  family.  Since  it  was 
feared  that  the  marble  might  disintegrate  from  the  damp- 
ness of  the  vault,  it  was  decided  to  add  the  vestibule  in  order 
that  the  caskets  might  have  light  and  air. 

The  marble  sarcophagi  are  severely  plain.  That  of  Wash- 
ington bears  a  high-relief  sculpture  of  an  eagle  surmounting 
the  American  shield  against  a  drapery  of  the  American  flag. 
Beneath  is  the  single  word  "Washington."  The  other  casket 
bears  the  words  "Martha,  Consort  of  Washington,"  on  upper 
surface,  and  at  end  of  casket,  "Died  May  2>i,  1802,  aged  71 
years."  By  a  curious  error,  left  uncorrected  until  1916,  the 
inscription  gave  the  year  of  her  death  as  "1801." 

In  the  grounds  surrounding  the  tomb  of  Washington  are 
interred:  Eleanor  Parke  Lewis  (Nellie  Custis),  "d.  July  15, 
1852,  in  the  74th  year  of  her  age"  (spot  marked  'by  marble 
shaft)  ;  Mrs.  M.  E.  A.  Conrad,  daughter  of  Lawrence  and 
Eleanor  Lewis  (d.  1839,  and  buried  here  with  her  child)  ; 
John  Augustine  Washington  (nephew  of  Bushrod  Washington, 
and  last  private  owner  of  Mount  Vernon).  Here  also  stands 
a  monument  to  Judge  Bushrod  Washington  and  his  wife. 

Memorial  Trees.  Near  the  tomb  are  a  number  of  trees 
planted  as  tributes  to  Washington  and  interesting  because  of 
their  source,  or  the  circumstance  of  their  planting.  They 
include : 

1.  Elm  planted  by  Dom  Pedro,  Emperor  of  Brazil  (1876);  2.  Maple 
planted  by  Temperence  Ladies  of  America  (1881);  3.  British  Oak 
planted  by  request  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  (Edward  VII)  tO'  replace  the 
onq  planted  by  him  in  i860;  4.  Tree  planted  by  Sigma  Chi  Fraternity 
(1890);  5.  Concord  Elm  planted  by  Children  of  the  American  Revolu- 
tion (1897);  6.  White  Oak  planted  by  American  Society  of  Civil 
Engineers  (1899);  7-  German  Linden  planted  by  Prince  Henry  of 
Prussia    (1902);      8.   Elm  planted   by  Phi   Kappa  Psi  Fraternity    (1902). 

One  of  the  most  recent  memorial  trees  was  that  planted  by  the 
Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution  during  their  29th  Continental 
Congress.  It  was  a  mulberry  tree  brought  from  Yorktown,  and  planted 
in  historic  soil  contributed  from  every  state  in  the  Union.  For  example, 
that  from  Connecticut  came  from  the  homestead  of  Oliver  Ellsworth  at 
Windsor;    that    from    Massachusetts    came   from    under   the    Washington 


504  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Elm,  at  Cambridge;  New  York:  from,  the  battle  ground  at  Saratoga; 
Virginia:  from  the  graves  of  Patrick  Henry,  Thomas  Jefferson  and 
George    Wythe. 

Many  trees  planted  by  Washington  himself  at  Mt.  Vernon 
are  still  standing.  According  to  a  painstaking  research 
recently  made  by  Charles  Sprague  Sargent,  at  request  of  the 
Mount  Vernon  Ladies'  Association,  fifty-seven  of  these  trees 
survive.     They  include : 

Fragrant  blossoming  Honey  Locusts,  near  the  kitchen  gardens, 
planted  by  Washington  in  his  boyhood  when  visiting  at  the  home  of 
his  step-brother  Lawrence.  Several  Coffee  Bean  trees,  and  near  them 
three  huge  Peqan  trees,  the  latter  planted  by  Washington  March  25, 
1775,  from  Pecan,s  given  him  by  Thomas  Jefferson.  Buck-Eye  trees, 
planted  in  April,  1785,  from  seeds  gathered  on  a  hunting  expedition 
to  Cheet  River,  W.  Va.  Also  a  towering  Hemlock,  81  ft.  tall,  with  a 
trunk  measuring  2  ft.  6  in.  in  diameter,  planted  by  Washington  March 
11,   1785.     It  stands  on  the  flower  side  of  the  Bowling  Green. 

II.     Arlington  Cemetery 

*  Arlington  National  Cemetery  (PI.  Ill — F-i),  .the  most 
important  of  the  many  last  resting-places  set  aside  for  the 
Nation's  military  and  naval  heroes,  is_situated  on  Arlington 
Heights,  on  the  Virginia  side  of  the  Potomac  River,  about  two 
miles  due  S.  of  Georgetown.  It  may  be  reached  by  trolley, 
either  by  the  Washington-Virginia  Ry.,  from  its  terminal  sta- 
tion at  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  12th  St.  (transferring  at  Had- 
field  Junction),  or  by  the  Fairfax  Co.  Branch  of  Washington 
and  Old  Dominion  Ry.,  firiom  terminal  at  36th  and  Ml  Sts., 
Georgetown.  Cars  leave  12th  St.  station  at  half-hour  intervals, 
12  min.  before  and  20  min.  after  each  hour.  Round-trip  ticket, 
available  on  either  line,  30c. 

The  Cemetery  is  open  daily,  Sundays  included,  from  sun- 
rise to  sunset. 

History.  The  lands  comprising  the  Arlington  House  Es- 
tate form  part  of  an  original  grant  of  6000  acres  from 
William  Berkeley,  Governor  of  Virginia,  to  one  Robert  How- 
son,  October,  1669,  for  the  consideration  of  Howson's  having 
transported  a  number  of  settlensi  into  the  colony.  That  same 
year  Howson  conveyed  the  lands  to  John  Alexander,  in  ex- 
change for  six  hogsheads  of  tobacco.  The  title  later  descended 
to  one  Gerald  Alexander  who,  in  1778,  conveyed  the  Arlington 
tract  of  approximately  1100  acres,  for  iiaoo  Virginia  cur- 
rency, to  John  Parke  Custis,  son  of  Martha  Washington  by 
her  first  marriage. 

Upon  the  death  of  John  Parkei  Custis  in  1781,  his  two 
youngest  children,  George  Washington  Parke  Custis  and 
Eleanor  Parke  Custis  were  adopted  by  Washington.  The 
tormer,  who  inherited  the  Arlington  estate  from  his  father, 
was  a  member  of  Washington's  family  until  the  latter's  death 


ARLINGTON   CEMETERY  505 

m  1799.  Soon  afterwards  he  removed  to  Arlington,  where  he 
resided  until  his  own  death  in  1857.  He  bequeathed  a  life 
interest  in  the  estate  to  his  only  child,  Mary  Ann  Randolph, 
wife  of  Lieut.-Col.  Robert  E.  Lee,  with  remainder  in  fee  to 
nis  eldest  grandson,  George  Washington  Custis  Lee. 

By  an  executive  order  of  President  Lincoln,  dated  Jan. 
Oth,  1864,  the  eastern  tract  of  about  1100  acres  "was  selected 
lor  Government  use,  for  war,  military,  charitable  and  edu- 
cational purposes,"  and  by  the  same  order  it  was  directed  that 
the  property  should  be  sold  to  meet  the  payment  of  overdue 
taxes  amounting  to  $92.07.  At  the  sale  it  was  bought  in  by  the 
Government  for  about  $26,000.  After  the  death  of  Mrs.  Lee 
in  1873,  her  son,  George  Washington  Custis  Lee,  as  heir  under 
his  grandfather's  will,  brought  suit  to  contest  the  legality  of 
the  tax  sales,  and  in  1882  a  verdict  in  his  favor  was  con- 
firmed by  the  U.  S.  Supreme  Court.  Thereupon  Congress  ap- 
propriated $150,000  for  the  purchase  of  the  property,  part  of 
which  had  then  been  in  use  for  19  years  as  a  National  ceme- 
tery. Mr.  Lee  finally  conveyed  his  title  to  the  Government, 
March  3d,  1883. 

The  cemetery  had  itsi  inception  in  an  order  issued  by 
the  Secretary  of  War,  June  15th,  1864,  directing  that  Arlington 
Mansion  and  surrounding  grounds,  not  exceeding  200  acres 
should  be  appropriated  for  the  burial  of  all  soldiers  dying 
in  the  hospitals  of  Washington,  Alexandria  and  vicinity.  The 
boundaries  were  subsequently  extended  to  the  southern  line 
of  the  estate,  and  the  present  area  is  408  1-3  acres, 

The  interments  are  mainly  of  those  who  died  in  hospitals, 
but  include  also  the  remains  gathered  from  Biuill  'Rlun,  Ma- 
nassas, Chantilly  and  other  adjacent  battlefields,  aisi  well  as 
from  abandoned  cemeteries  in  the  District  of  Columbia.  The 
number  of  interments  is  nqw  about  18,000  known  and  4,700 
unknown  dead. 

Sight-seeing  wagonettes  will  be  found  waiting  at  the 
trolley  station,  Fort  Myer  Gate,  and  make  the  circuit  of  the 
principal  monuments,  with  stop-over  privilege  at  chief  points 
of  interest;  fare  35  cts.  Sight-seeing  automobiles  from 
Washington  alsojmake  the  circuit  of  the  cemetery  (p.  21). 
But  if  the  visitor  is  a  good  pedestrian,  the  satisfactory  way 
to  see  the  many  interesting  inscriptions  and  sculptures  is  to 
go  on  foot;  distance  about  three  miles. 

The  general  outline  of  the  cemetery  may  be  best  described 
as  a  high  plateau  forming  an  irregular  crescent,  at  the  N.  E. 
horn  of  which  stands  the  Arlington  Mansion,  while  along  the 
southern  horn  are  the  Confederate   Monument,  the   Spanish 


506  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

War  Monument  and  the  Miles  Mausoleum.  In  the  centre 
the  grounds  slope  downward  in  a  broad  hollow  toward®  the 
Potomac,  and  midway  in  the  descent  is  located  the  New  Me- 
morial Amphitheatre  (see  p.  510).  A  large  tombstone 
on  L.,  marks  the  grave  of  Lieut.  iRand,  the  first  man  to  answer 
Lincoln's  call  for  volunteers  in  1861. 

There  are  four  principal  entrances  to  the  Cemetery,  the 
three  on  the  E.  side  being  Memorials.  The  N.  gate  has  two 
stone  columns  on  which  are  inscribed  respectively  the  names 
"Ord"  and  "Weitzel."  The  next  or  Sheridan  Gateway  con- 
sists of  a  stone  tablet  bearing  the  name  "Sheridan,"  sur- 
mounting two  pairs  of  columns  inscribed  respectively  with 
the  names,  "Lincoln,"  "Grant,"  "Stanton"  and  "Scott."  The 
six  columns  of  these  two  northern  gateways  were  part  of  the 
north  portico  of  the  old  War  Department  Building,  demolished 
in  1879.  The  S.  or  McClellan  Gateway  consists  of  a  massive 
arch  of  Seneca  sandstone  composed  of  a  capstone  inscribed 
"McClellan"  resting  upon  two  columns  bearing  the  names 
"Hooker"  and  "Burnsides." 

Practically  all  tourists,  however,  now  approach  the  Ceme- 
tery by  the  W.  or  Ft.  Myer  gate.  The  entrance  avenue 
divides  almost  immediately,  the  right  branch  leading  S. 
to  the  new  portion  of  the  Cemetery;  while  the  left 
runs  almost  due  E.  to  the  Arlington  Mansion  and  old  Amphi- 
theatre. Following  the  latter  branch  we  pass,  on  N.  or  L. 
side,  a  number  of  fine  monuments,  every  one  bearing  an  his- 
toric name.  Near  the  entrance  is  the  monument,  erected  in 
1896,  to  the  Second  Connecticut  Heavy  Artillery,  "Defences 
of  Washington,  1862-65." 

In  the  third  line  of  graves  N.  of  entrance  avenue  are  two 
monuments  conspicuous  by  their  contrast.  The  one  is  a 
stately  sarcophagus  of  dressed  marble,  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Gen.  M.  C.  Meigs,  Soldier  and  Engineer  and  Quartermaster 
General  of  the  Army  during  the  entire  Civil  War;  the  other, 
marking  the  grave  of  his  young  son,  Lieut.  John  Rogers 
Meigs,  a  Civil  Engineer  on  Sheridan's  Staff,  killed  in  1864, 
consists  of  a  flat  bronze  tablet  in  relief,  showing  the  dead 
soldier  on  the  battle-field,  surrounded  by  the  foot-prints  of 
the  horses  which  have  trampled  upon  him.  Near  by  are 
memorials  to  two  generations  of  Caprons,  Captain  Erastus 
A.  Capron,  a  victim  of  the  Mexican  War,  and  Captain  Allyn 
Capron,  who  died  from  the  effects  of  the  Cuban  Campaign. 
Still  further  N.E.  is  a  monument  to  Maj. -General  Green  Clay- 
Smith,  1832-95  "(bronze  portrait  medallion  by  Gorham  Mfg. 
Co.).     Adjacent,   flat  on  the  turf,   are  a  number  of  ancient 


ARLINGTON  CEMETERY  507 

tombstones,  among  them  one  inscribed  "James  McCubbin 
Lingan,  1751-1812.  Captive  on  prison-ship  Jersey.  Original 
member  of  Society  of  Cincinnati,  Officer  of  Maryland  Line." 

Other  monuments  in  this  section  are  to  Royal  Emerson 
Whitman,  1833-1913  (a  bowlder  with  copper  bronze  medallion 
by  Gutzon  Borglum) ;  Lieut.-Col.  Garrick  Mallory,  1831-94, 
"Scholar,  Soldier,  Scientist"  (bronze  medallion  by  William 
Ordway  Partridge)  ;  Captain  John  G.  Burke,  1846-96,  "Aide- 
de-camp  of  Maj. -General  Crooke  through  all  his  Indian  cam- 
paign"; Maj.-Gen.  Abner  Doubleday,  1819-93  (Historian  of 
Gettysburg)  ;  Maj.-Gen.  William  V.  Belknap,  1829-90,  Secre- 
tary of  War,  1869-76  (medallion  portrait  by  Carl  Rohl-Smith; 
Maj.-Gen.  Benjamin  F.  Kelley  (bronze  high-relief  medallion 
by  W.  S.  Davis)  ;  Read  Admiral  Robley  D.  Evans,  1846-1913 
(bronze  portrait  bust  signed  "Charles  J.  Pike,  Brooklyn  Navy 
Yard,  July  1906")  ;  John  Wesley  Powell,  1834-1902,  "Soldier, 
Explorer,  Scientist"  (portrait  medallion  by  Leila  Usher)  ; 
Senator  Cushman  Kellogg  Davis,  1838-1900  (bronze  portrait 
bust  by  G.  Trentanove.) 

The  Arlington  House  (PI.  Ill — F-i — No.  2),  situated  on 
the  brow  of  the  N.  W.  bluff,  is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  due 
E.  of  the  Ft.  Myer  gate.  It  was  begun  by  George  Washington 
Parke  Custis  in  1804,  but  was  not  completed  until  after  the 
close  of  the  War  of  1812.  Its  most  notable  feature  is  its  stately 
eastern  facade,  consisting  of  a  colonnade  of  six  Doric 
columns  surmounted  by  a  pediment,  and  said  to  have  been 
modeled  after  the  Temple  of  Paestum,  near  Naples,  Italy. 
The  view  of  Washington  and  the  Potomac  from  this  main  en- 
trance is  almost  unrivaled. 

The  Mansion  itself  and  the  principal  outlying  buildings 
have  been  preserved  in  their  original  appearance,  and  are 
in  excellent  condition.  Visitors  are  free  to  roam  through  the 
principal  rooms  on  the  main  floor  of  the  Mansion.  On  the 
N.  and  S.  sides  of  the  spacious  entrance  hall  arei  a  pair  of 
large  bronze  tablets  inscribed  respectively  with  an  abridged 
history  of:  1.  The  Arlington  House  Estate;  2.  The  Arlington 
National  Cemetery,  prepared  "for  the  information  of  vis- 
itors, by  the  Quartermaster's  Department,  under  the  direction 
of  Daniel  Lamont,  Secretary  of  War."     (1896). 

The  Arlington  House  was  the  principal  residence  of 
Robert  E.  Lee,  down  to  1861,  when  he  resigned  his  Commis- 
sion  in  the  U.   S.   Army  to  join  the  Rebellion. 

The  eastern  slope,  immediately  in  front  of  the  Mansion, 
contains  the  monuments  to  some  of  the  most  illustrious  among 
the  Nation's  heroes.     Directly  in  front  of  the  main  doorway 


508  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

is  a  granite  table-monument  consisting  of  a  slab  supported 
on  six  granite  legs  (designed  by  W.  W.  Bosworth),  marking 
the  final  resting  place  of  L'Enfant,  who  planned  the  City 
of  Washington  (p.  xxvii).  Visitoris  are  not  allowed  to  walk 
across  the  surrounding  circle  of  turf  to  read  the  inscription 
on  the  stone,  but  a  copy  of  it,  on  a  bronze  tablet,  is  placed 
near  the  roadway : 

"Pierre  Charles  L'Enfant,  Engineer,  Artist,  Soldier;  under  the 
direction  of  George  Washington  he  designed  the  plan  for  the  Federal 
City.  Born  in  Paris  August  2d,  175  5;  died  at  Chilham  Castle  Manor, 
Prince  George  Co.,  Md.  June  14th,  1825.  Reinterred  at  Arlington 
April  28th,  1909." 

Directly  N.  of  the  L'Enfant  monument  is  a  granite 
obelisk   to    Maj.-Gen.    Horatio    G.    Wright. 

Directly  S.  of  the  L'Enfant  grave  is  the  monument  to 
Gen.  Philip  H.  Sheridan,  a  simple  granite  obelisk,  on  the  K, 
face  of  which  is  a  bronze  bas-relief  consisting  of  a  medal- 
lion portrait  bust  of  Sheridan,  against  a  background  formed 
of  a  waving  battle  flag.  Sculptor  (name  inscribed  on  flag- 
pole), Samuel  Kitson. 

Further  S.,  on  terrace,  is  the  monument  of  Maj-Gen. 
George  H.  Crook,  famous  for  his  many  campaigns  against 
hostile  Indians.  The  W.  fagade  has  a  large  bronze  bas- 
relief,  depicting  the  scene  of  the  surrender  of  the  Apache 
Chief,  Geronimo. 

West  of  the  Crook  monument,  on  N.  side  of  main 
driveway,  is  the  rectangular  granite  monument  "To  the  Un- 
known  Dead,"1  bearing  the   following  inscription : 

"Beneath  this  stone  repose  the  bones  of  21 11  unknown  soldiers, 
gathered  after  the  war  from  the  fields  of  Bull  Run  and  the  Route  of 
the  Rappahannock.  Their  remains  could  not  be  identified;  but  their 
names  and  deaths  are  recorded  in  the  archives  of  their  country;  and 
its  grateful  citizens  honor  them  as  of  their  noble  army  of  martyrs. 
May  they  rest  in  peace.     September,  A.   D.    1866." 

Almost  directly  N.  of  the  Unknown  Dead  monument  is 
the  old  Amphitheatre,  erected  in  1873,  the  columns  of  which 
are  encircled  with  vines.  Here,  for  many  years,  the  Decora- 
tion Day  ceremonies  have  been  conducted.  It  will  hold  ap- 
proximately 5000  people.  East  of  the  Amphitheatre  stands 
an  octagonal  Temple  of  Fame,  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter, 
consisting  of  eight  stone  pillars  and  entablature,  iron  roof 
and  concrete  floor.  The  pillars  and  entablature  were  removed 
ifrom  the  corridors  of  the  Patent  Office  (p.  142)  at  the  time 
of  the  restoration  of  that  building,  after  its  partial  destruc- 
tion by  fire,  September  24th,  1877. 

On    the    alternate    blocks     of    the    entablature    are    inscribed    the 
names:       Washington,     Lincoln,     Grant,    Farragut;    and    on    the    eight 


ARLINGTON  CEMETERY  509 

columns  are  the  names:  Meade,    Thomas,   Mansfield,  Sedgwick,   Garfield, 
McPherson,  Humphreys,   Reynolds. 

Southwest,  on  main  driveway,  stands  the  bronze  equestrian 
monument  to  General  Philip  Kearney,  heroic  size,  by  Edward 
Clark  Potter  (b.  1857). 

General  Philip  Kearney  was  originally  interred  in  Trinity  Church 
graveyard,  New  York  City  (see  Rider's  New  York,  p.  134),  and  there, 
facing  Wall  St.,  his  old  monument  still  stands.  Hisi  remains  were 
removed    to   Arlington   April    12th,    1912. 

Across  the  roadway  from  the  Kearney  monurr.ent  is  the 
Receiving  Vault,  a  small  marble  structure  capable  of  con- 
taining 15  bodies  at  a  time. 

The  visitor  should  now  continue  W.,  from  the  Kearney 
monument,  on  main  driveway  to  a  point  opposite  the  Meigs 
monument ;  here  an  ill-defined  pathway,  southward,  leads 
through  the  section  occupied  by  the  thousands  of  graves  of 
the  privates  and  non-commissioned  officers  of  the  Civil  War. 
and  known  as  the  Field  of  the  Dead.  All  these  graves  are 
marked  by  a  standard  stone,  inscribed  with  the  name  and  also 
the  number  corresponding  to  the  official  roster  in  the  War 
Department.  Note  that  some  stones  have  flat  tops,  and  others 
rounded  tops,  signifying  respectively  the  unknown  and  the 
known  dead.  Contrary  to  traditional  custom  there  are  no 
mounds  over  the  graves,  the  ground  being  uniformly  levelled. 
About  1000  ft.  S.,  on  the  L.  side  of  the  path,  are  the  isolated 
graves  of  George  Washington  Parke  Custis,  1781-1857;  and 
his  wife  Mary  L.  Custis,   1788-1853. 

Following  the  same  path  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  we 
presently  reach  the  Southern  Driveway,  running  E.  through 
the  new1  addition  of  the  Cemetery,  to  old  Ft.  McPherson. 
The  S.  W.  cor.  of  the  Cemetery  was,  in  1908,  the  scene 
of  the  death  of  Lieut.  Thomas  E.  Selfridge,  the  first  U.  S. 
Officer  killed  by  the  fall  of  an  Areoplane. 

The  ^Monument  to  the  Confederate  Dead  is  in  the  S. 
W.  section,  on  S.  side  of  driveway.  It  was  contributed  by 
the  Women  of  the  South,  through  the  efforts  of  the  United 
Daughters  of  the  Confederacy.  It  consists  of  a  bronze  female 
figure,  heroic  size,  symbolizing  the  South  in  Peace.  She 
surmounts  a  lofty  and  elaborate  pedestal,  consisting  of  three 
sections :  1.  an  octagonal  base  of  marble ;  2.  a  circular  frieze, 
symbolizing  the  South  in  War,  and  depicting  the  sweethearts, 
wives  and  mothers  of  the  South  sending  forth  their  men  to 
fight  for  the  Confederacy;  3.  circular  upper  section  sur- 
rounded by  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  southern  states.  The 
dedicatory  inscription  reads :  "To  Our  Dead  Heroes,  by  the 


5io  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

United  Daughters  of  the  Confederacy.  Victrix  causa  diis 
placuit,  sed  victa  Catoni"  (The  victorious  cause  was  pleasing 
to  the  gods,  but  the  lost  cause  to  Cato).  Around  the  upper 
base  is  inscribed  the  quotation :  "And  they  shall  beat  their 
swords  into  ploughshares,  and  their  spears  into  pruning 
hooks." 

The  statue,  frieze  and  other  bronze  deqorations  were  all  modeled 
by  Moses  Ezekiel  (1844-19 17).  It  is  not  generally  known  that  the 
figure  of  the  Confederate  soldier  in  the  frieze,  immediately  in  line  with 
N.  E.  cor.  of  the  base,  who  with  raised  hand  is  apparently  gazing 
upward  at  the  statue,  is  a  portrait  of  the  sculptor. 

Continuing  E.,  on  South  Driveway,  we  presently  pass, 
on  L.,  the  Monument  to  the  Rough  Riders,  inscribed :  "In 
Memory  of  Deceased  Members  of  the  First  U.  S.  Volunteer 
Cavalry,  Spanish-American  War.  Erected  by  members  and 
friends   of  the   Regiment,   1906." 

Directly  E.  of  the  Rough  Riders'  monument  is  a  small 
plot  occupied  by  the  graves  and  monument  of  the  American 
Nurses,  who  died  during  the  Spanish-American  War. 

A  few  hundred  feet  N.  of  the  Nurses*  monument,  on  the 
verge  of  a  slope,  stands  the  Monument  to  the  Soldiers  and 
Sailors  of  the  Spanish  War,  a  tall  marble  shaft  surmounted 
by  a  sphere,  on  which  is  poised  an  American  eagle  in  bronze. 
Flanking  the  monument  are  two  captured  Spanish  cannon, 
one  dated  "Sevilliat,  11  de  Mayo  de  1831 ;"  the  other,  "Sevillia, 
28  de  Mayo  de  1857." 

Northwest  from  the  Spanish-American  War  monument 
stands  the  monument  to  the  American  Battleship  Maine,  sunk 
in  Havana  Harbor  in  1808.  The  monument  consists  of  the 
mast,  conning  tower  and  anchor  of  the  Maine,  and  marks  the 
last  resting  place  of  163  unidentified  sailors  and  marines  who 
lost  their  lives  when  the  ship  was  sunk. 

In  the  hollow  of  the  horse-shoe  bluff,  on  the  southern 
side  of  whidh  the  last  two  monuments  are  located,  stands 
the  *New  Memorial  Amphitheatre  (PI.  Ill— Fi-^No.  3), 
dedicated  May  15,  1920. 

This  Amphitheatre  is  due  mainly  to  the  efforts  of  the  Grand  Army 
of  the  Republic,  who  desired  that  there  should  be  erected  here  a 
memorial  building  to  serve,  in  a  measure,  the  purposes  fulfilled  by 
Westminster  Abbey  in  England,  and  provide  a  worthy  memorial  for 
the  heroic  members  of  the  U.  S.  Army,  Navy  and  Marine  Corps. 

There  have  been  provided  in  the  crypt  a  few  places  of  interment 
for  men  who  have  specially  distinguished  themselves.  And  a  great 
many  spaces  have  been  left  for  busts  and  commemorative  tablets  to  men 
who   have    performed    distinguished   service   in   war. 

"To  protect  the  use  of  the  building  against  hasty  and  ill-considered 
subjects,  certain  legislation  will  be  provided  by  Congress.  For  example, 
no  memorial  shall  be  placed  to  any  man — until  ten  years  after  his 
death,   and  then  the  specific  consent  of   Congress  must  be  enacted." 


ARLINGTON  CEMETERY  5" 

The  plan  of  the  building  is  a  roofless,  wal  amphitheatre,  sur- 
rounded by  a  colonnade  of  white  marble  columns,  and  covering  an 
area  of  approximately  34,000  sq.  ft.  The  entire  structure  consists  of 
pure  white  Vermont  marble.  The  Architects,  Carrere  and  Hastings  of 
New  York,  endeavored  to  obtain  a  classic  and  serious  character  in 
their  design,  in  order  to  express  the  dignity  of  the  purpose  of  the 
building.  They  studied  especially  the  Theatre  of  Dionysius  at  Athens, 
and  the  Roman  Theatre  at  Orange,  France;  yet,  at  the  same  time, 
they  tried  to  keep  the  design  in  character  with  the  old  Colonial 
buildings    in    Washington. 

The  Amphitheatre  is  situated  approximately  600  yards  S.  of  the 
Arlington  Mansion.  Its  principal  entrance  is  through  the  E. 
front,  which  forms  a  distinct  building,  and  contains  a  spacious  recep- 
tion hall,  above  which  is  a  room  intended  for  a  museum  of  historic 
relics;  while  in  the  basement  there  will  be  a  mortuary  chapel.  The 
reception  hall  leads  to  the  mammoth  stage  overlooking  the  auditorium, 
the  outside  dimensions  of  which  are  260  x  236  ft.,  with  a  seating 
capacity   of    5000    people,    and    standing-room   for   about   4000   more. 

History.  $75,000  were  appropriated  by  Congress  for  the  building 
of  the  Memorial  Amphitheatre.  The  ground  was  broken  March  1st, 
1915.  The  cornerstone  was  laid  by  President  Wilson  October  1st,  $915. 
The  Amphitheatre  was  dedicated  May  15,  1920,  President  Wilson  and 
General  John  J.  Pershing  both  participating  in  the  ceremony. 

In  front  of  the  New  Amphitheatre,  looking  toward  the 
Potomac  River,  is  the  monument  marking  the  *Grave  of  the 
Unknown  Soldier,  whose  body,  brought  from  France  by 
General  Pershing,  was  buried  with  impressive  ceremonies 
Nov.  11,  '1921,  the  great  gathering  including  the  delegates  then 
assembled  in  Washington  for  the  Conference  on  the  Limita- 
tion of  Armament.  The  monument  consists  of  a  massive 
block  of  stone  bearing  a  brief  tribute  to  all  the  other  un- 
identified soldiers   who  lie  buried  in  France. 

Continuing  E.  from  the  Spanish  War  monument,  on 
Southern  Driveway,  we  pass,  on  R.,  the  historic  earth-works 
of  old  Ft.  McPherson,  part  of  the  defences  of  Washington, 
which  has  been  restored  so|  far  as  possible  to  its  original 
condition,  and  is  today  open  to  inspection  by  visitors. 

Northeast  from  Ft.  McPherson  the  southern  branch  of 
the  horse-shoe  bluff  terminates.  At  the  extreme  N.  E.  cor. 
stands  the  unpretentious  mausoleum  to  Gen.  Nelson  A.  Miles, 
in  which  the  remains  of  the  late  Rear  Admiral  Dewey  were 
temporarily  placed. 

Immediately  S.  E.  of  the  Miles  mausoleum  stands  a  monu- 
ment to  Mrs.  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie,  a  well-known  Washington 
sculptor,  consisting  of  a  pedestal  bearing  a  medallion  bas- 
relief  portrait  of  Mrs.  Hoxie,  signed  "C.  T.  Zolnay,  1910," 
and  surmounted  by  a  full  length  bronze  female  figure  designed 
by  Mrs.  Hoxie. 

As  the  visitor  retraces  his  steps  westward,  he  passes  a 
simple   rough   block  of   granite,  marking  the   grave  of   Rear 


512  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Admiral  Sampson,  and  further  on  a  monument  to  Dr.  Walter 
Reed,  with  the  inscription :  "He  gave  to  man  control  over 
that  dreadful  scourge,  yellow  fever." 

Immediately  W.  are  the  graves  of  Rear  Admiral  Schuyler 
Crowninshield  (1844-1908) ;  and  his  wife,  Mary  Bradford 
Crowninshield  (1844-1913),  novelist,  best  known  as  author 
of  "Where  the  Trade  Winds  Blow." 

Throughout  the  National  Cemetery  visitors  will  note  iron 
tablets  placed  at  intervals  along  the  paths,  and  inscribed  with 
stanzas   of  verse,  such   as : 

"The  muffled  drum's  sad  roll  has  beat 

The  soldiers'  last  tattoo ! 
No  more  on  life's  parade  shall  meet 

The  brave  and  fallen  few." 

All  of  these  quotations  are  selections  from  the  same  poet. 
"'The  Bivouac  of  the  Dead,"  by  Col.  Theodore  O'Hara,  a 
veteran  of  the  Mexican  and  Civil  Wars. 

III.     Alexandria 

Routes:  1.  Via  Washington -Virginia  R.  R.  (electric), 
from  Pennsylvania  Ave.  Terminal  at  12th  St.,  N.  W. ;  30.  min. 
Cars  leave  every  20  min.  or  oftener  throughout  the  day.  2. 
Via  Richmond,  Fredericksburg  and1  Potomac  R.  R.  and  Wash- 
ington Southern  Ry.,  from  Union  Station  to  Union  Station, 
Alexandria.  3.  Via  Washington  and  Old  Dominion  Ry.  from 
Georgetown  Terminal  (36th  and  M  Sts.,  N.  W.)  ;  45  min.  4. 
Via  Mt.  Vernon  and  Marshall  Hall  Steamboat  from  wharf, 
foot  of  7th  St.,  S.  W.) 

Hotels:  New  Hotel  Rammel,  126  N.  Royal  St.  (opposite 
Municipal   Building) ;    unpretentious!. 

Lunch  Rooms,  etc.  There  are  a  few  cake  shops  and  ice- 
cream parlors  on  King  St.,  where  tourists  may  obtain  a  light 
luncheon.  S human's,  516  King  St.,  and  Bloch,  615  King  St., 
are  as  good  as  any.  There  is  also  a  tea-room  adjoining  en- 
trance to  the  Carlyle  House. 

Souvenirs.  Souvenir  postal  cards,  etc.,  may  be  found  at 
R.  E.  Knight  &  Son,  stationers,  621  King  St.;  also  Gibson's 
Drug  Store,  cor.  King  and  Alfred  Sts. 


ALEXANDRIA  513 

Alexandria,  Va.,  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Poto- 
mac River,  about  8  miles  S.  of  Washington,  has  the  advantage 
of  an  excellent  harbor,  accommodating  large  vessels,  and  has 
a  considerable  shipping  trade  in  grains,  manufactures,  chem- 
icals, fertilizers,  machinery  and  bricks ;  it  is  the  seat  of  the 
Virginia    Theological    Seminary.     Population    (1910),    15,329. 

History.  Alexandria  indirectly  owes  its  origin  and  name 
to  John  Alexander,  the  emigrant,  who  settled  in  Virginia 
about  1640.  In  1669  his  son,  John,  Jr.,  acquired  from  one 
Capt.  Robert  Howsen  a  Crown  patent  for  6600  acres,  com- 
prising a  large  portion  of  the  present  county  of  Alexandria, 
for  which  he  paid  6600  pounds  of  tobacco,  together  with  some 
money.  In  1696,  Simon  Pierson,  a  connection  of  the  Alex- 
anders by  marriage,  located  on  what  later  came  to  be  known 
as  Pierson's  Island.  In  1730,  a  public  tobacco  warehouse  was 
established  on  Pierson's  Island,  about  where  the  gashouse 
now  stands.  Around  this  warehouse  a  settlement  grew  up, 
constituting  the  hamlet  of  Belhaven,  later  Alexandria,  which 
began  with  a  single  street,  Oronoco  St.,  named  after  the 
brand  of  tobacco  brought  here.  It  is  believed  that  the  name 
Belhaven  originated  in  the  pretty  cove  or  haven  formerly 
lying  between  the  points  of  Oronoco  and  Duke  Sts.,  long  since 
filled  in  and  built  over. 

Alexandria  was  the  county  seat  of  Fairfax  County  from 
1742  to  1800.  It  was  organized  as  a  town  July  13,  1749, 
mainly  through  the  initiative  of  Thomas,  Sixth  Lord  Fair- 
fax (1690-1781),  with  the  co-operation  of  Lawrence  Wash- 
ington, William  Fairfax,  Gerard  Alexander  and  others.  It 
was  incorporated  by  the  Assembly  of  Virginia  in  1779.  George 
Washington  was  closely  associated  with  its  development.  He 
helped  survey  and  lay  out  its  streets,  one  of  which  bears  his 
name.  He  endowed  its  school,  was  a  member  of  its  Town 
Council,  and  represented  it  in  the  House  of  Burgesses.  The 
town  was  ceded  to  the  Federal  Government  in  1789,  and  the 
first  boundary  stone  of  the  Federal  District  was  here  laid 
April  15,  1791  (p.  519).  It  was  retrocoded  to  Virginia  in 
1846. 

Streets.  What  staunch  loyalists  the  early  citizens  of 
Alexandria  were  is  attested  by  the  names  of  the  streets ;  King, 
Queen,  Prince,  Princess  and  Duke  Sts.;  Royal  St.  and  Pitt 
St. ;  while  Lord  Fairfax,  Baron  of  Cameron,  is  twice  com- 
memorated in  Fairfax  and  Cameron  Sts.  The  present  Lee 
St.  was  formerly  Water  St.,  reminiscent  of  the  fact  that  orig- 
inally it  skirted  the  river  firont,  since  reclaimed  two  blocks 
eastward. 


514  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

The  best  way  to  visit  Alexandria  is  by  the  Electric  Line 
(route  i),  preferably  in  connection  with  the  trip  to  Mt. 
Vernon  (p.  19),  taking  advantage  of  the  stop-over  privi- 
lege. From  one  to  two  hours  should  suffice  for  visiting  the 
principal  points  in  the  order  given  below.  Visitors  should 
leave  the  car  in  King  St.,  cor.  Columbus  St.,  and  walk  N. 
on  Columbus  one  block  to  Christ  Church,  the  starting  point. 
If  the  tourist  stops  off  at  Alexandria  on  the  return  trip  from 
Mt.  Vernon,  he  may  leave  the  car  at  the  cor.  of  Cameron  St., 
directly  in  front  of  the  Church. 

The  Protestant  Episcopal  *Christ  Church,  the  oldest 
church  edifice  in  Alexandria,  stands  surrounded  by  its  ancient 
graveyard  at  the  S.  E,  cor.  of  Columbus  and  Cameron  Sts. 
(or,  to  be  more  exact,  directly  in  the  line  of  Cameron  St.. 
which  here  makes  a  detour  on  the  N.). 

History.  Christ  Church,  known  until  181 3  as  "The  Episcopal 
Church,"  dates  from  1765.  On  Feb.  1st  of  that  year  the  Parish  of 
Fairfax  was  created  out  of  Truro,  and  on  March  28th  Col.  George 
Washington  was  elected  one  of  the  twelve  vestrymen.  The  Vestry  in 
Colonial  Virginia  possessed  extensive  civil  authority,  including 
attending  to  the  temporal  wants  of  the  church,  overseeing  the  needs  of 
the  poor,  and  the  power  of  imposing  fines  and  administering  justice. 
It  was  decided  to  erect  two  churches,  one  at  Falls  Church  and  the  other 
at  Alexandria.  To  provide  for  the  cost,  the  Vestry  imposed  upon  the 
parish  a  tax  of  31,185  pounds  of  tobacco.  In  1767  the  contract  for  the 
Alexandria  edifice  was  given  to  one  James  Parsons  for    £600  sterling. 

The  designs  accepted  were  by  James  Wren,  according  to  tradition, 
a  descendant  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  of  whose  characteristic  church 
architecture  this  simple  structure  is  reminiscent.  In  1772  the  work  was 
at  a  standstill,  Parsons  having  found  himself  unable  to  fulfill  his  con- 
tract, whereupon  an  additional  sum  of  £220  was  advanced  by  Col.  John 
Carlyle  (p.  519).  On  Feb.  27th,  1773,  the  chunch  was  placed  in  the 
hands  of  the  Vestry,  and  on  that  same  day  Washington  purchased  his 
pew  for  £36  10s.  In  1784,  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War, 
the  church  was  disestablished,  and  the  civil  authority  of  the  Vestry 
ceased.  In  18 14,  on  June  9th,  the  church  was  consecrated  as  Christ 
Church,  by  Bishop  Claggett  of  Maryland.  In  18 18  the  steeple  was 
erected.  In  1853  the  church  was  first  lighted  with  gas.  The  present 
Parish  Hall  dates  from  1854,  but  was  extensively  enlarged  in  1901, 
with  the  addition  of  five  class-rooms  and  the  tower.  In  1890  it  was 
decided  to  restore  the  old  Colonial  furniture  which,  after  the  Civil  War, 
had  been  replaced  by  walnut  furniture.  Fortunately  many  of  the 
original  pieces  had  been  preserved,  while  others  were  replaced  by 
furniture  reproducing  the  style  of  the  period.  Consequently,  excepting 
for  the  old  tiled  floor  and  square  pews,  the  church  looks  substantially 
as  it  did  a  century  ago. 

The  visitor  enters  the  southern  gate  and  through  the 
Lodge  (1913)  adjoining  the  Parish  Hall.  Open  week  days, 
9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. ;  admission,  ioc.  "History  of  Christ 
Church,"  ioc. 

Beside  the  entrance  door  is  a  bronze  mural  tablet  com- 
memorating the  Pallbearers   of  Washington,  some  of  whom 


ALEXANDRIA  515 

were  fellow  vestrymen  (erected,  1909,  by  the  Daughters  of 
the  American  Revolution).  The  interior  of  the  church  is 
severely  simple.  In  the  framed  original  specifications,  hang- 
ing on  the  western  wall,  one  may  read  that  "the  arches  and 
pediments  are  of  the  Tuscan  order,  the  altar  piece,  pulpit  and 
canopy  of  Ionic  style."  There  are  three  windows  in  the 
cttancel ;  and  on  R.  and  L.  two  panels  containing,  respectively, 
in  black  lettering  on  a  gilt  background,  the  Ten  Command- 
ments and  the  Lord's  Prayer,  with  the  Creed.  The  Communion 
table,  the  desk  and  chairs,  as  well  as  the  old  frosted  windows, 
are  all  original.  The  Baptismal  font  dates  from  1818.  The 
original  brass  chandelier,  with  its  crystal  prisms,  dating  from 
1819,  has  also  been  restored.  The  attendant  tells  visitors  that 
its  candles  are  now  lit  only  upon  the  occasion  of  a  wedding. 

On  the  L.  of  the  N.  aisle,  Nos.  59-60,  is  George  Wash- 
ington's pew,  the  only  double  pew  surviving.  Diagonally 
opposite,  No.  46,  is  the  pew  of  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee,  also  a 
vestryman  of  Christ  Church.  Both  pews  bear  silver  name- 
plates,  with  the  names  inscribed  in  autograph.  On  the  eastern 
wall,  beneath  the  galleries,  are  mural  tablets,  erected  in  1870, 
to  the  memory  of  Washington  and  Lee. 

In  the  Lodge  is  a  small  collection  of  early  relics,  includ- 
ing the  first  Bible  and  Church  Service ;  also  the  long-handled 
purse  used  in  Washington's  time  for  the  offerings. 

There  is  little  to  interest  the  visitor  in  the  old  graveyard.  Inter- 
ments ceased,  with  rare  exceptions,  in  1808.  In  the  N.  E.  cor.,  however, 
is  a  monument  marking  the  resting  place  of  34  Confederate  soldiers  who, 
according  to  the  inscription,  "were  disinterred  from  the  Alexandria 
Soldier's  Cemetery  (Federal)  and  reinterred  in  this  ground  Dec.  27th, 
1879,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Southern  Memorial  Association  of 
Alexandria,  Va.  These  men  were  prisoners  who  died  in  the  Federal 
Hospital  in  this  city." 

Walking  E.  on  Cameron  St.,  to  the  rear  of  the  church- 
yard, we  reach  Washington  St.,  on  the  L.  of  which,  midway 
in  the  next  block  N.,  is  the  site  of  the  old  Quaker  schoolhouse 
kept  by  the  noted  teacher,  Benjamin  Hallo  well,  who  here 
prepared  Robert  E.  Lee  for  West  Point.  Beyond,  at  S.  W. 
cor.  of  Washington  and  Queen  Sts.,  the  local  historians  record 
that  here,  in  the  Lloyd  Mansion,  Robert  E.  Lee  was  first 
notified  one  Sunday,  by  his  cousin,  Mrs.  Tabb,  that  a  com- 
mittee had  that  morning  come  to  Alexandria  to  offer  him  the 
Command  of  the  Virginia  forces. 

When  asked  by  Mrs.  Tabb  what  his  intentions  were,  Lee  replied 
that  it  would  be  improper  for  him  to  state  them  as  he  had  not  yet 
received  the  official  notification.  As  he  prepared  to  take  his  leave  Mrs. 
Tabb  drew  back,  saying,  "I  won't  kiss  you,  Cousin  Robert,  unless  you 
accept  the  Command."  The  following  morning  as  Lee,  in  company  with 
other  officers,  started  to  ride  South,  he  halted  at  this  same  corner  and 
sent  in  a   brief   note:     "I   shall   claim    that   kiss   from    my   dear   cousin." 


5i6  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

Returning  to  Cameron  St.  and  turning  E.,  we  pass  on  L. 
(last  house  on  block)  the  large  Fairfax  House,  with  quaint 
arched  doorway,  built  about  1815  by  William  Yeaton,  and 
acquired  in  1830  by  Thomas  Fairfax,  whose  descendants 
occupied  it  until  the  Civil  War.  Later  it  was  for  a  time 
occupied  by  Constance  Cary  Harrison  (Mrs.  Burton  Harri- 
son), the  novelist,  who  has  woven  the  romance  of  local  his- 
tory into  her  volume  of  Belhaven  Tales.  Continuing  to  the 
corner,  we  reach  St.  Asaph  St.,  north  on  which,  three  blocks, 
at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Oronoco  St.,  still  stands  the  home  of 
Robert  E.  Lee,  from  his  fourth  year  until  he  entered  West 
Point.  Continuing  on  Cameron  St.,  E.  of  St.  Asaph's,  we 
pass  on  R.  a  small  frame  house  (now  No.  510)  and  a  vacant 
lot  E.  of  it,  once  owned  by  Washington.  The  lot  was  the 
site  of  his  town  office,  which  survived  until  1857.  Cameron 
St.  next  crosses  Pitt  and  then  Royal  St.,  where,  at  the  S.  W. 
cor.,  stands  the  historic  Gadsby's  Tavern,  the  older  or  Cam- 
eron St.  portion  of  which  was  built  in  1750-54.  Here  Wash- 
ington had  his  headquarters  as  Colonel  of  the  Virginia  Militia 
when  drilling  his  troops  in  1754.  Here  the  first  celebration 
of  the  adoption  of  the  Federal  Constitution  was  held  June 
27,  1788,  and  from  the  doorway  on  Cameron  St.,  April  16, 
1789,  George  Washington,  on  his  way  to  his  first  inauguration, 
responded  to  a  farewell  address  made  by  the  Mayor,  Col. 
Dennis  Ramsey.  Here  Lafayette  and  John  Paul  Jones  first 
met,  in  1777.  In  1799  the  hostelry  was  enlarged  by  the  addition 
of  the  four-story  building  on  the  corner,  known  as  Claggett's 
Tavern,  and  in  more  recent  years  called  City  Hotel.  Some 
of  the  letters  of  the  latter  name  may  still  be  traced  on  the 
Royal  St.  facade.  In  November,  1709,  Washington  issued 
his  last  military  orders  from  this  house  when  reviewing  the 
"Independent  Blues."  It  was  also  the  scene  of  the  annual 
Birthnight  Ball,  first  instituted  at  Alexandria  during  Wash- 
ington's lifetime,  and  forerunner  of  the  National  celebration 
of  Washington's  Birthday. 

Here  also  Lafayette  was  three  times  entertained:  1st,  at 
a  public  dinner  in  1784;  2d,  at  a  banquet  given  by  the  citizens 
when  he  revisited  Alexandria,  October  16,  1824;  3d,  at  a 
banquet  given  in  his  honor,  February  21,  1&25,  by  the  Alex- 
andria Washington  Lodge  of  Masons. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  city  block,  immediately  E.  of 
Gadsby's  Tavern  and  bounded  by  Royal,,  Fairfax,  Cameron 
and  King  Sts.,  was  formerly  Market  Square,  the  historic 
center  of  the  town.  It  was  laid  out  in  .  1749.  Around  the 
open  space  were  built  the  County  Jail,  1755 ;  the  County  Court 
House,  1755 ;  the  Friendship  Fire  Co.,  founded  by  Washing-   3 


ALEXANDRIA  517 

ton,  1774;   the  Sun  Fire  Co.,   1775;   and  the  Masonic  Lodge 
on  its  present  location,  1802. 

In  this  square  the  troops  of  Braddock  were  drilled;  and  here  also 
the  news  of  his  defeat  and  death  was  announced  to  the  country,  July 
16th,  1755.  It  was  in  Market  Square,  in  1754,  that  Washington  had 
his  historic  altercation  with  a  Mr.  Payne  growing  out  of  an  election 
dispute,  in  the  course  of  which  Payne  struck  and  knocked  down 
Washington.  When  they  met  by  appointment  the  next  day,  instead  of 
the  expected  pistols  there  were  wine  glasses  and  a  decanter.  Washing- 
ton said:  "Mr.  Payne,  to  err  is  human.  I  was  wrong  yesterday;  but 
if  you  have  had  sufficient  satisfaction  let  us  be  friends." 

it  was  also  in  Market  Square  that  Washington  came  to  cast  his 
j  last  vote.  "The  polling  place  was  up  a  flight  of  outside  steps,  so  rick- 
ety that  when  the  huge  form  of  the  General  approached  their  foot,  the 
bystanders,  apprehending  danger  to  him,  with  silent  and  spontaneous 
accord,  braced  the  stairway  with  their  shoulders  as  he  mounted,  and 
waited  there   until  he  descended."     Mt.    Vernon,  by   Paul   Wilstach. 

The  market  house,  built  around  the  Square  in  181 7  with 
city  offices  and  Museum,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1871.  The 
present  building  dates  from  1872.  Near  the  N.  W.  cor.  the 
Colonial  Dames  of  America  erected,  in  1914,  a  marble  tablet 

j  commemorating  the  principal   historic   events   in   Alexandria. 

J  Just  E.  of  this  tablet  is  the  entrance  to  ♦Alexandria-Wash- 
ington Lodge  No.  22.  The  Lodge  is  on  the  second  floor  of 
the  present  building  and  is  open  to  the  public  week  days  from 

I  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  (admission,  10c). 

This  Lodge  is  one  of  the  most  famous  in  the  history  of 
American  Masonry.  It  obtained  its  first  charter  from  the 
Provincial  Grand  Lodge  of  Pennsylvania,  and  was  originally 
known  as  No.  39  of  that  jurisdiction.  Shortly  after  the 
Revolution,    Washington    was    elected   an    honorary    member. 

\  In  1788  the  Pennsylvania  charter  was  surrendered  and  a  new 
charter  obtained  from  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Virginia,  the  name 
being  changed  to  Alexandria  Lodge  No.  22.  Washington  be- 
came the  First  or  Charter  Master ;  and  the  instrument  con- 
taining his  name  and  signed  by  Edmund  Randolph,  Governor 
of  Virginia  and  Grand  Master  of  Masons,  is  one  of  the 
Lodge's  most  prized  relics. 

The  collection  of  Washingtoniana  in  possession  of  this 
Lodqe,  wihile  not  large,  is  second  only  in  interest  to  that  of  Mt. 

1  Vernon  itself.  A  few  unique  relics  were  destroyed  when  the 
former  Lodge  roTns  were  burned,  including  a  portrait  of 
Martha  Washington  taken  in  girlhood ;  some  others  are 
thought  to  have  been  stolen  at  that  time,  including  the  crepe 
placed  on  the  door  of  Mt.  Vernon  at  the  time  of  Washing- 
ton's death.  In  rece  it  years  the  vandalism  of  relic-hunters 
for  a  time  compelled  the  closing  of  these  rooms  to  the  public. 
The  relics  are  now  exhibited  under  glass  and  carefully 
marded. 


518  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  room  (the  only  part  occupying  the 
site  of  the  earlier  Lodge)  is  the  *"Old  Gainsborough" 
Chair,  occupied  by  General  Washington  when  Worshipful 
Master.  It  was  in  continuous  use  for  117  years,  and  the 
visitors  who  have  occupied  it  include :  Lafayette,  Vice-Presi- 
dent Fairbanks,  Speaker  Cannon,  and  Admiral  Schley. 

On  the  eastern  wall,  to  the  L.,  hangs  a  *Pastel  Portrait 
of  Washington,  by  Williams,  of  Philadelphia.  This  portrait 
was  ordered  by  the  Lodge  with  the  consent  of  Washington 
in  1793,  and  was  taken  from  life.  It  shows  the  General  in 
extreme  old  age  and  in  Masonic  regalia.  Note  the  unsparing 
realism  of  details :  the  mole  under  the  right  ear,  the  scar 
on  the  left  cheek,  said  to  have  been  received  at  the  age  of 
40,  the  pock-marks,  etc.  Offers  of  $50,000  have  been  refused 
for  this  picture.  On  the  same  wall,  to  the  R.,  is  a  portrait 
of  Lafayette,  said  to  be  by  Peale,  executed  immediately  after 
the  Revolutionary  War  and  showing  the  Marquis  at  the  age 
of  27.  Adjacent,  on  the  S.  wall,  is  a  ^Portrait  of  Thomas, 
Lord  Fairfax,  founder  of  Alexandria,  painted  in  London,  1730, 
and  claimed  to  be  the  only  extant  picture  of  the  Baron. 

On  the  W.  wall,  L.  and  R.  respectively,  are  two  other 
portraits  of  Washington  and  Lafayette,  executed  about  1840 
by  a  member  of  the  Lodge.  They  are  closely  copied  from  the 
portraits  in  the  House  of  Representatives,  but  the  artist  has 
added  the  Masonic  regalia. 

On  the  N.  wall  are  two  cabinets  containing  Washington- 
iana  and  other  relics  of  the  Lodge.  The  custodian  volunteers 
a  full  account  of  their  history  and  significance  (no  fee  ex- 
pected). The  more  important  exhibits  include:  1.  Washing- 
ton's Masonic  apron,  made  of  cream-colored  satin,  embroi- 
dered in  gold,  showing  the  French  and  American  flags  en- 
twined. J 

This  apron  is  said  to  have  been  woven  by  Mme.  Lafayette  and 
presented  by  her  husband  to  Washington.  The  latter  wore  it  at  the 
laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  Capitol.  The  few  occasions  on  which 
it  has  been  worn  since  Washington's  death  include:  the  laying  of  the 
corner-stcne  of  the  Washington  Monument  in  1848;  and  the  Yorktown 
Monument  in   1881. 

2.  Washington's  wedding  gloves ;  3.  Washington's  farm 
spurs ;  4-6.  His  pocket  compass,  cupping  and  bleeding  instru- 
ments ;  7.  Sealing-wax,  taken  from  his  desk  after  death ;  8. 
Portrait  of  Dr.  Elisha  Cullen  Dick,  one  of  Washington's 
family  physicians,  who  succeeded  him  as  Grand  Master  of 
the  Lodge ;  9.  Washington's  bed  -  chamber  clock.  Wrhen  : 
Washington  died,  Dr.  Dick  cut  the  pendulum-cord,  stopping 
the   clock   at  20  minutes    after    10  p.   m.     In   presenting  the 


ALEXANDRIA  *  519 

clock  to  the  Lodge,  Mrs.  Washington  said :  "Its  work  is  done, 
but  the  hands  still  point  to  the  minute  and  hour  that  mark 
the  close  of  the  greatest  life  in  history";  10.  Beside  the  clock 
stand  three  candlesticks,  the  original  "Lesser  Lights"  of  the 
Lodge,  used,  among  other  important  occasions,  at  the  laying 
of  the  corner-stone  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  1791 ;  of  the 
National  Capitol,  1793;  of  the  Washington  Monument,  1848; 
and  at  Washington's  funeral,  1799. 

Lastly,  there  is  the  *Little  Trowel,  of  silver,  with  an 
ivory  handle,  made  by  one  John  Duffey,  a  silversmith,  son- 
in-law  of  Washington's  landscape  gardener.  It  bears  this 
inscription  : 

"This  Trowell,  the  property  of  ALEXANDRIA  WASHINGTON 
LODGE  No.  22  A.  F.  &  A.  M.  was  used  by  General  Washington  Sept. 
18th,  1793  to  lay  the  Corner  Stone  of  the  Capitol  of  -the  United  States 
of  America  at  Washington,   D.   C." 

This  trowel  has  been  used  on  many  historic  occasions,  the  most 
recent  of  which  was  the  laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  new  Masonic 
Temple  in  Washington. 

Continuing  E.  on  Cameron  St.  to  Fairfax  St.,  we  reach 
at  the  N.  E.  cor.  the  historic  Wiese's  Tavern,  erected  before 
the  Revolution,  by  one  Thomas  Herbert.  From  1784  to  1868 
it  was  the  scene  of  numerous  festive  gatherings  and  Masonic 
banquets.  Here  the  District  Commissioners  were  entertained 
after  laying  the  first  corner-stone  of  the  District  of  Columbia, 
April  115,  1791  (p.  522).  The  stone  building  is  now  the  Anne 
Lee  Memorial  Home  for  the  Aged. 

Opposite,  on  the  E.  side  of  Fairfax  St.,  occupying  more 
than  half  the  block,  still  stands  a  rambling  structure  formerly 
occupied  by  Braddock's  Hotel  (now  an  apartment  house). 
The  lower  portion  is  at  present  used  for  shops,  lunch-rooms, 
etc.  Midway  is  the  office  of  the  Association  in  charge  of  the 
historic  *Carlyle  House,  which,  hidden  from  view  by  these 
modern  commercial  erections,  is  historically  second  only  in 
interest  to  Christ  Church. 

This  ancient  house,  still  in  good  preservation,  was  built  in  1745, 
by  John  Carlyle,  who"  came  over  from  England  as  Collector  of  Customs 
for  the  Crown.  He  married  Sarah  Fairfax,  a  daughter  of  William 
Fairfax  of  Belair.  He  was  one  of  the  original  trustees  named  in  the 
charter  of  the  city  of  Alexandria.  At  the  request  of  Washington  and 
Fairfax  he  was  later  appointed,  by  Governor  Dinwiddie,  Major  and 
Quartermaster  during  the  French-Indian  Wars. 

The  Carlyle  House  was  the  headquarters  of  General  Braddock 
during  the  French-Indian  Wars,  and  the  northeastern  room  (Blue 
Room)  was  the  scene  of  the  "Council  of  Royal  Governors":  Dinwiddie 
of  Virginia,  Shirley  of  Mass.,  Delancey  of  New  York,  Morris  of 
Virginia  and  Sharpe  of  Maryland,  at  which  the  first  suggestion  was 
made  by  British  officials  in  council  of  taxing  the  American  colonies. 
On  this  occasion  Washington  received  his  appointment  as  Aide  to 
Braddock.      Here    also    was    held,    in    1785,    a    conference    between    the 


520  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

Governors  of  Virginia  and  Maryland  which  was  called  primarily  to 
confer  on  the  right  of  navigation  of  the  Potomac  River  and  Chesapeake 
Bay.  It  resulted,  however,  in  an  epoch-making  convention  of  delegates 
from  other  states  which  met  at  Philadelphia,  in  1787,  and  framed  the 
Constitution   of  the   United   States. 

In  recent  years  a  "Society  for  the  Restoration  of  Historic 
Alexandria"  has  been  formed,  through  whose  efforts  the 
Carlyle  House  has  been  restored,  and  is  gradually  being  fur- 
nished in  Colonial  style.  Open  week  days  from  10  a.  m.  to 
5  p.  m.  (admission,  10c).  The  custodian  points  out  the 
historic  Blue  Room,  the  garden  at  the  rear,  formerly  sloping 
to  the  river,  the  great  wine-cellars  and  the  arched  vaults 
where,  it  is  stated,  Indian  prisoners  were  kept  during  the 
French-Indian  wars. 

One  block  S.  on  Fairfax  St.  brings  us,  N.  E.  cor.  of  King 
St.,  to  the  Ramsey  House,  built  1751  by  William  Ramsey,  one 
of  the  founders  of  Alexandria.  It  is  said  to  be  the  oldest 
surviving  private  residence.  Continuing  S.  on  Fairfax  St., 
we  pass,  on  E.,  midway  between  King  and  Prince  Sis.,  Printers' 
Alley,  where  the  first  newspapers  of  the  town  were  printed : 
Alexandria  Gazette,  1794  and  later  The  Times,  Advertiser, 
and  Columbian  Mirror.  The  Gazette  is  still  published  from 
its  modern  office,  321-23  King  St. 

Directly  facing  this  alley  is  the  site  of  Leadbeaters'  Drug 
Store,  established  1792,  the  oldest  firm  in  the  city  and  third 
oldest  firm  of  druggists  in  the  United  States.  It  was  in  this 
store  that  General  Lee  received  his  orders  to  proceed  to 
Harper's  Ferry  to  quell  the  insurrection  of  John  Brown, 
Oct.,   1859. 

One  block  E.  on  Prince  St.  brings  us,  N.  W.  cor.  of  Lee 
St.,  to  the  house  of  Dr.  E.  C.  Dick,  one  of  the  physicians 
present  at  Washington's  deathbed.  Continuing  S.  one  block, 
we  reach,  on  the  S.  side  of  Duke  St.,  midway  between  Lee 
and  Fairfax  Sts.  (No.  210),  the  residence  of  Dr.  James 
Craik,  whose  military  record  was  associated  with  Washington 
through  the  French-Indian  war  and  the  Revolution,  and  who 
was  one  of  the  attending  physicians  at  Washington's  death. 

Continuing  W.  on  Duke  St.,  we  reach,  S.  on  Fairfax  St., 
W.  side,  the  old  Presbyterian  Church,  built  1774.  Washington 
contributed  to  its  foundation  and  often  attended  service. 
The  original  structure  was  destroyed  by  lightning  in  1835. 
The  present  building  dates  from  1836. 

Three  blocks  W.  on  Duke  St.,  S.  W.  cor.  of  St.  Asoph 
St.  (now  No.  301),  stands  the  so-called  Laifayette  House, 
built  by  one  Thomas  Lawrason  about  1820-24.  Here  Lafayette 
was   lodged  and  entertained  when  he  revisited   Alexandria  in 


ALEXANDRIA  521 

1824.  West  one  block  on  Duke  St.,  then  N.  to  intersection 
of  Washington  and  Prince  Sts.,  we  reach  the  Confederate 
Monument,  erected,  1889,  on  the  site  of  the  departure,  May 
24,  1861,  of  the  17th  Virginia  Regiment.  The  inscription 
reads :  "Erected  to  the  Memory  of  the  Confederate  Dead  of 
Alexandria,  Va.,  by  their  Surviving  Comrades,  May  24th, 
1889."  Monument  designed  by  John  A.  Elder;  sculptor,  C. 
Buburl. 

Returning  to  King  St.,  thence  E,  two  blocks,  we  reach,  at 
S.  E.  cor.  of  Pitt  St.,  the  remodeled  structure  which  was 
formerly  the  *  Mar  shall  House.  At  the  opening  of  the  Civil 
War  this  was  a  tavern  kept  by  one  James  Jackson,  a  southern 
sympathizer.  On  the  night  of  May  23,  Alexandria  was  taken 
by  the  Federal  troops,  among  whom  were  the  New  York  Fire 
Zouaves,  commanded  by  Col.  E.  E.  Ellsworth.  Observing  at 
dawn  that  the  Marshall  House  still  flew  the  Confederate  flag, 
Ellsworth  entered  the  house  and  tore  down  the  offending 
colors.  As  he  was  descending  the  stairs,  Jackson  fired  upon 
him  with  a  double-barreled  shotgun,  killing  him  instantly. 
Jackson,  in  turn,  was  killed  by  the  Zouaves. 

Diagonally  opposite  the  Marshall  House,  on  N.  side  of 
King  St.,  stands  the  present  building  of  the  First  National 
Bank  of  Alexandria,  which  was  founded  in  1792  as  the  Bank 
of  Alexandria,  and  is  interesting  as  being  the  first  banking 
institution  ever  chartered  in  Virginia. 

The  cemeteries  of  Alexandria  lie  at  the  extreme  S.  W. 
cor.,  beyond  the  old  District  line,  and  offer  little  of  interest 
to  strangers,  with  the  exception  of  one  mysterious  and  ro- 
mantic grave  known  as  that  of  "The  Female  Stranger."  The 
known  facts  are  that  in  September,  1816,  an  unknown  couple 
arrived  at  Gadsby's  Tavern,  the  lady  being  evidently  seriously 
\  ill;  and  there,  on  October  4,  she  died.  Even  then  their  iden- 
tity remained  a  mystery,  the  widower  insisting  that  the  in- 
scription on  his  wife's  tomb  embodied  all  that  they  chose 
the  world  to  know. 

Visitors  may  readily  find  the  tomb  without  a  guide.  Go 
W.  on  Wilkes  St.  (Fourth  Street  S.  of  King  St.),  the  con- 
tinuation of  which  forms  the  main  driveway  through  the 
cemetery  grounds.  On  the  L.  we  pass  Bethel  Cemetery;  on 
the  R.  a  smaller  unnamed  burial  ground.  At  the  end  of  the 
drive  is  the  National  Cemetery,  containing  the  graves  of 
soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Civil  War.  Directly  opposite  the 
entrance  stands  a  simple  monument  to  Peter  Carroll  and 
others  who  lost  their  lives,  April  24,  1865,  while  in  pursuit  of 
Lincoln's  assassin,  Wilkes  Booth. 


522  RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

To  reach  "The  Female  Stranger's"  grave,  we  turn  into 
southern  driveway  before  reaching  the  National  Cemetery, 
and  presently  pass  between  two  gateways,  that  on  R.  marked 
Presbyterian  cemetery;  while  opposite,  on  L.,  is  a  red  brick 
gateway  opening  into  St.  Paul's  Episcopal  graveyard.  Enter- 
ing, we  reach,  at  first  corner  on  R.,  the  low  marble  slab,  sup- 
ported on  six  gracefully  carved  pillars,  and  bearing  a  lengthy 
inscription,  beginning  as  follows : 

"To  the  Memory  of  a  Female  Stranger  whose  Mortal  Sufferings 
terminated  on  the  4th  day  of  Oct.,  181 6,  aged  23  years  and  8  months. 
This  stone  is  placed  here  by  her  disconsolate  husband,  in  whose  arms 
she  sighed  out  her  latest  breath."  The  verses)  quoted  in  the  inscription 
are  from  Pope's  "Unfortunate  Lady."  Regarding  the  man}'  conjectures 
as  to  the  Female  Stranger's  identity,  Francis  E.  Lexipp  says,  in  Walks 
About  Washington:  "A  local  suspicion  that  she  was  Theodosia  Allston, 
the  daughter  of  Aaron  Burr,  seems  to  be  discredited  by  the  fact 
Theodosia's  disappearance  occurred  in  1812,  and  that  her  husband  was 
dead  long  before  the  Stranger  came  to  Claggett's  Tavern.'' 

Another  historic  point,  which  few  tourists  take  the  trouble 
to  visit,  is  Jones  Point  Light,  situated  at  the  extreme  southern 
point  of  Alexandria  Count}'.  This  spot  was  the  scene  of  the 
laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  District  of  Columbia  in 
1791.  The  point  is  reached  by  following  Lee  St.  to1  its  ter- 
mination on  Hunting  Creek,  then  south-easterly  across  a  filled- 
in  tract,  altogether  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Market 
Square. 

The  stone  itself  was  for  many  years  hidden  from  sight,  having 
been  embedded  in  the  masonry  of  the  outer  wall  surrounding  the 
Lighthouse,  and  its  exact  location  was  a  matter  of  controversy.  In  19 13, 
however,  when  certain  repairs  were  being  made  in  the  outer  walls  on 
the  S.  side,  the  stone  was  exposed  to  view.  In  order  to  make  it 
available  for  surveying  purposes,  Col.  W.  C.  Langfitt,  of  the  U.  S. 
Engineer  Corps,  encased  the  stone  in  a  concrete  cage,  with  an  opening 
in  the  side,   through  which  it  may  now  be  seen  by  visitors. 

Two  other  "Jurisdiction  Stones,"  No.  1  S.W.  and  No.  2  S. W., 
were  erected  within  the  limits  of  Alexandria.  The  first  still 
stands  in  the  backyard  of  No.  1200  Wilkes  St.  (on  way  to  cemeteries)  ; 
the  second  formerly  stood  on  the  N.  side  of  Shuter  Hill,  about  three- 
quarters    of     a    mile    due    N.W.    from    the    Alexandria    L'nion    Station. 

Shuter  Hill,  overlooking  the  Potomac  and  a  large  part  of  Washing- 
ton and  the  surrounding  country,  is  interesting  historically  because  it 
was  the  spot  selected  by  Thomas  Jefferson  as  the  site  for  the  Capitol 
of  the  United  States.  Steps  are  now  being  taken  to  erect  on  this 
spot  a  George  Washington  Masonic  National  Memorial,  to  be  devoted 
exclusively  to  Masonic  purposes,  "in  honor  of  Washington  as  a  man 
and  a  Mason."  The  building,  which  is  expected  to  cost  $500,000,  is 
also  intended  to  provide  a  safe  permanent  museum  for  preserving  the 
relics  of  Washington,  now  owned  by  the  Alexandria-Washington  Lodge 
(P-  Sl7)>  which  has  already  agreed  to  give  them  up  whenever  the 
Memorial   building  is   completed. 


POHICK  CHURCH  523 

IV.     Pohick  Church 

Historic  Pohick  Church,  the  parish  church  of  Truro 
Parish,  which  shared  with  Christ  Church,  Alexandria  (p.  514), 
the  distinction  of  being  for  many  years  the  place  of  worship 
of  the  Washington  family,  is  situated  about  seven  miles 
almost  due  W.  of  Mt.  Vernon.  It  is  difficult  of  access  except 
by  automobile,  the  only  railway  communication  being  by  the 
Richmond,  Fredericksburg  and  Potomac  R.R.,  the  schedule 
of  which  is  so  arranged  that  the  visitor  must  waste  his  entire 
day  from  7  :3s  A.  M.  to  6  140  P.  M.,  except  on  Saturdays  when 
the  round  trip  may  be  made  between  2.05  and  6,40  P.  M. 
The  train  stops  on  signal  at  Pohick  station. 

History.  The  original  edifice  of  Pohick  Church  was  situated  about 
two  miles  N.W.  of  the  present  location,  on  what  was  known  as 
Michael  Reagan's  Hill,  on  the  road  leading  from  Alexandria  to  Col- 
chester and  the  south,  and  it  was  in  this  earlier  building  that  George 
Washington's  father,  Alexander,  served  as  Vestryman  from  1735 
throughout  his  brief  residence  on  his  Hunting  Creek  property.  George 
Washington,  in  his  turn,  was  first  elected  Vestryman  October  25th, 
1762,  and  took  an  active  ipart  in  church  affairs  during  the  following 
twelve  years.  In  1705  Truro  Parish  was  divided  by  Act  of  Assembly 
which  created  the  new  Parish  of  Fairfax.  Since  Dogue  Run  was  part 
of  the  dividing  line,  Mt.  Vernon  found  itself  transferred  to  the  new 
parish.  The  general  protest  raised  by  the  parent  parish  resulted  in 
the  appointment  of  a  Committee  of  Burgesses,  including  Washington, 
who  two  months  later  secured  the  passage  of  a  supplementary  Act 
transferring  the  northern  boundary  to  Little  Hunting  Creek;  cotase- 
quently  Mt.  Vernon  is  to  this  day  included  in  Pohick  Parish.  In 
1767,  when  the  present?  surviving  edifice  was  projected,  the  membership 
of  the  church  included,  among  other  distinguished  men,  George  William 
Fairfax,  George  Mason,  Captain  Daniel  McCarty  and  Edward  Payne. 
These  four  men,  together  with  Washington,  constituted  the  building 
committee  who,  on  April  7U1.  1769,  signed  an  agreement  for  the  con- 
struction of  the  church,  the  contractor  agreeing  to  complete  the  work 
by  September  rst,  1772.  The  new  site  was  chosen  by  Washington, 
being  two  miles  nearer  his  home  than  the  old  building.  The  cost  of 
its  erection  wasi  met  mainly  through  the  generosity  of  another  member, 
Daniel  French,  who  did  not  live  to  see  its  completion,  for  it  is  recorded 
that  his  executor,  George  Mason,  tendered  the  completed  church  to 
the  Vestry  February  15th,  1774.  Washington  purchased  pew  No.  28 
in  the  new  church,  situated  in  the  centre,  before  the  Communion 
Table,  on  the  N.  aisle.  Pew  No.  29  was  first  taken  by  Lund  Washing- 
ton (for  many  years  manager  of  Mt.  Vernon),  but  later  bought  from 
him  by  George  Washington,  who  retained  both  of  these  large  square 
pews  throughout  his  life,  notwithstanding  that  in  later  years  he  and 
his  family   worshipped  chiefly  at   Christ   Church. 

Among  the  Rectors  of  Pohick  Church  were  two  men  somewhat 
intimately  associated  with  Washington;  Parson  Weems,  author  of  the 
famous  cherry  tree  and  hatcher  story,  and  Dr.  Charles  Green,  who 
was  an  M.D.  as  well  as  a  D.D.,  and  during  the  50's  was  the  family 
physician    at    Mt.   Vernon. 

_  The  venerable  church  survived  in  fairly  good  condition  until  the 
Civil  War,  during  which  the  whole  interior  was  ripped  out  by  soldiers, 
and  the  building  used  as  a  stable  for  their  horses.  After  the  war, 
practically  nothing  remained  but  the  brick  walls  and  a   dilapidated   roof. 


524  RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 

No  steps  were  taken  to  restore  or  preserve  the  church  until  after  the 
election  in  1895  of  Miss  Amy  Townsend  of  New  York  as  a  Vice-Regent 
of  the  Mt.  Vernon  Ladies'  Association.  She  promptly  interested  her- 
self in  this  undertaking,  and  thanks  to  her  energtic  efforts  through 
twenty  years,   Pohick  Church  is  now  completely  restored. 

.  The  work  of  restoration  was  carried  on  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  well  known  Washington  architect,  Glenn  Brown, 
who  has  endeavored  so  far  as  practicable  to  reproduce  the 
original  features,  both  in  design  and  decoration.  The  double 
pews  and  pulpit  and  chancel  are  painted  cream  color  with 
enamel  finish,  the  walls  are  light  buff  and  the  ceiling  ivory. 
The  windows  which,  as  well  as  the  doors,  were  donated  by 
J.  Pierpont  Morgan,  are  of  ground  glass,  and  the  outside 
is  of  a  green  tint  in  keeping  with  the  original  window  lights. 
Special  interest  attaches  to  the  railings  from  the  fact  that  a 
Federal  soldier  who  had  taken  a  baluster  as  a  souvenir,  sent 
it  back  when  he  heard  of  the  proposed  restoration,  thus  en- 
abling the  architect  to  make  duplicates.  The  stone  Baptismal 
Font,  missing  for  many  years,  was  finally  found  in  a  neigh- 
boring farmyard  where  it  was  utilized  as  a  watering  trough. 

The  belfry,  directly  opposite  the  church,  was  donated 
by  Augustus  Schermerhorn  of  New  York.  It  contains  a  large 
bronze  bell  inscribed  'Tn  Memory  of  Washington."  The 
wrought  iron  gates  and  colonial  brick  wall  at  the  entrance 
to  the  grounds  were  the  joint  gift  of  Roger  Winthrop,  James 
Ludlow,  Gerard  Beekman  and  Van  Horn  Stuyvesant,  all  of 
New  York. 

During  the  Civil  War  the  sandstone  trimmings  of  the 
church  were  much  chipped  by  soldiers,  and  today  many  of 
their  names  and  initials  may  still  be  read. 


INDEX 

For  explanation  of  abbreviations  used  see  p.  xii,  most 
of  them  are  self-explanatory.  The  names  of  architects, 
sculptors  and  artists  {of  mural  zvorks)  are  entered  here  in 
italics,  but  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  index  the  works 
of  sculptors  and  artists  in  the  various  art  collections  proper. 


Abbe,  Cleveland,  homes, 

215,    237;    introduces 

weather  forecasts, 

219 
Abbot,  C.  G.,  home,  239 
Abbott,  W.  L.,  Pac.  Is. 

coll.,  300 
"Abington,"    488 
Academy        of         Holy 

Cross,  228 
— '  of    Visitation,    473 
Accounts     &     Disburse. 

Bur.,     Agric.     Dept., 

252 
Adams,    Henry,    home, 

191 
— ,  Herbert,     sculp., 

375,    383,    403 
— ,  Mrs.       Henry,       St. 

Gaudens    mem.,   437 
— ,  Pres.    J.    Q.,    death, 

96;     first     impression 

of  White    House,  112; 

home,      134,      148; 

d  h  u  r  c  h,    137,    196, 

231,  233;  interviewed 

by  Anne  Royall,  364; 

Marine    Band    estab., 

407 
— ,  Samuel,    95 
—  Bldg.,    148 
Adath      Israel,       Syna- 
gogue,   141 
Addison,     Col.     T.,     of 

Oxen  Hall,  444 
— .  Rev.    W.    D.,   471 
Aeronautics,   Nat.  Adv. 

Com.,    offices,    347 
Agriculture       Dept., 

252-55 

,    lib..    38 

Aircraft    Bldg.,    251 
Alabama   claims,   237 
Alaska   purchase,    233 
Alban    Hill,    455 
Albert    Hall,    419 
Alden,      Adm.,      home, 

193 


Alexander,  John,  title 
Arlington  estate,   504 

— ,  — ,  Jr.,  title  to 
Alexandria    site,    513 

— ,  /.    W .,   murals,   383 

Alexandria,  earlv  'ncl. 
in  D.  C,  xxvi;  re- 
turned to  Va.,  xxxii; 
motor  bus  line,  21; 
landmarks,  488;  de- 
scrip.,    512-22 

— Washington  Lodge 
No.  22,  517-19;  pro- 
posed Washington 
mem.,    522 

Alger,  R.  A.,  homes, 
191,   201 

Alibi   Club,  31 

Alien   Prop.   Custodian, 

Office,  f202 

Alig,    M.,    mem.    tablet, 

141 
All      Saints'      (P.      E.) 

Ch.       Chevy       Chase 

Cir.,  442 
All  Souls'    (Unit.)   Ch., 

209 ;    history,    232 
Allen,  Ethan,  statue,    93 
— ,  W ..   sculptor,   92 
Allies   inn,    cafeteria,    9 
Allison,  W.   B.,  homes, 

220,   228 
Alms     House,     D.     C, 

225 
Altar         of        Calvary, 

Franciscan    Mon.,  426 
Amateis,    L.,   56;    Capi- 
tol   doors,    263-65 
Ameriqan       Acad.       in 

Rome,    off.    213 

—  Assn.  .  .  .  Speech  to 
Deaf,  475 

— 1  Assn.  Univ.  Wom- 
en, 30,  191;  history, 
236 

—  Ethnology  Bur., 
260;    lib.,    38 

—  Fed.  of  Arts,  off., 
213 

—  Fed.  of  Labor,  lib., 
38;    bldg.,   229 


—  Inst,   of  Archs.,   211 
— League    baseball    pk., 

13,    27,    430 

—  Red       Cros9      bldg., 

154-155 

—  Republics  Bur., 
former  home,    194 

—  S.    S.   Line,   43 

— ■  Surety  and  Trust 
Co.,   230 

—  Theater,    137 

—  Univ.,    443-44 

Americas,   Hall   of,    168 

Ames,  J.    T.,    75 

Amphitheatre,  old,  Ar- 
lington Cem.,  508; 
new,    510-11 

Anacostia,  trolley 
route,  16;  descrip., 
412-413 

Anderson,  B.  S.,  arch., 

434 
— ,  Larz,  home,   229 
— ,  Gen.    N.    L.,    home, 

194;  widow,    199 
Andrews,   E.   F.,   200 
Animal      Indus.      Bur., 

252 
Animals,      Zool.      park, 

,444-55 
Annapolis,       trolley 

route,  20;  motor  bus, 

21 
Anne  Lee  Mem.   Home 

for  Aged,   519 
Anthony,      Susan      B., 

relics,  331 
Apostolic       Mission 

House,   418,   421 
Appier's     (hotel),     106 
Aquarium,  245 
Aqueduct        bridge, 

Georgetown,    466 
Archaeological  Inst,    of 

Amer.,   office,  212 
Archaeology,         Amer., 

misc.   colls,   313-318 
Architect,    Supervising, 

office,    124 
Architects,  Amer.  Inst., 

211 


526 


RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 


A  rdsley,     W, 
sculp.,   436 

Area,    xvii 

Argentina,  embassy, 

40,    235;    former    le- 
gations, 207,  229 

Arizona   hotel,    133 

Arlington  (apt.  hotel), 
220 

— <  bldg,    189,    190,   219 

—  hotel,  former  site, 
189;    guests,    190 

—  house,   507 

—  Junction,   487 
— '  Nat.    cem.,    504-12 
Armory   bldg.,    245 

—  sq.,    244 
Armstrong,       Gen.      J., 

home,    217 
— ,  Sec.    of    War,    18 12, 

xxxi 
Army    and    Navy    Club, 

30;    site,    236 

—  Engr.    Sch.,    350-351 

—  Med.   Lib.,   250 

M.-US.,    247-51 

— Munitions  bldg.,   346, 

348 

—  War   Coll..   350-52 
Arsenal,    350 
Art    Coram.,    plans    for 

beautifying        Wash., 

240,  241,  358 
Art  dealers,  31 
— -galleries:      Corcoran, 

171-84;     Freer,     339- 

42;    Nat.,   271-80 
Arthur,     Pres.,     homes, 

404,    434 
Arts,    Amer.    Fed.,    213 

—  and  Indus.  Mus., 
322-339 

- — -Club  of  Wash.,  30; 
bldg.,   237 

Asbjornsen,    S.,    126 

Ascension,  Church, 
orig.  site,  149;  pres- 
ent,   227 

A  s  h  b  u  r  t  o  n, 
church,       15  a, 
home,    190 

— 1  Treaty,     191 

Assumption       of 

debts    by    first    govt., 
xxiv 

Astrophysical  Observa- 
tory,  251,   260 

Asylum,    city,    410 

Athletic    goods,    33 

Athletics,    26 

Atlantic   hotel,    100 

—  Transport   Co.,   43 


95 

Austria-Hungary,  for- 
mer    legations,     222, 

237 

"Avenue  of  Presi- 
dents,''  195 

Avenues,  arrangement, 
xix 


and     G.,\  Atzeroth,   hanged,   351    |  Barse,    G.   R.,  Jr.,    mu- 
I  Auditors'    bldg.,    348  rals,    390 

Augur,   Hezekiah,        •       Bartholdi,     A.,     sculp., 

sculptor,    67  244 

Austin,     S.     F.,     statue,  |  Bartlett,  P.    W.,   sculp., 

58,   402,   403 
Barye,  coll.  of  bronzes, 

174 

Baseball,    27 

Bastille   key,   498,    500 

Baths,   43;   first   public, 

136 
"Battle    Hymn    of    Re- 
public,"   in 
Baur,       Theo.,      sculp., 

402 
Bayard,     Sec,     church, 

150 
— ,  T.      F.,      residence, 

228 
Beall,    Charles,    413 
— ,  Gen.    E.  -F.,    home, 

193 
— ,  Geo.,    462 
— ,  N  i  n  i  a  n  ,    George- 
town    tract,     462 ; 
tablet,   471 
— ,  Thos.,    462,    476 
Beck  -  Washington    elm, 

242,    244 
Belasco   Theatre,    187 
Belgium,    embassy,    40, 
229;    former  leg.,  222, 
229,    237 
Belknap,    Gen.    W.    V., 
home,       188;      grave, 

507 

Bell,       Alex.       Graham, 
home,       224:       Volta 
Bur.,   475-476 
— ,  —  Melville,       death, 

224;    home,   475 
— ,  Chas.   J.,   475 
— ,  J.,   lodgings,    100 
"Bellevue,"    479 

—  Farms  Xunch,   9 

—  (hotel),    rates,    5 
Belt,    Col.    Joseph,    442 
"Belvoir,"   490 
Benjamin,  J.   P.,  home, 

193 

Benning    (town),   413 

— ,  Wm.,   413 

Benson,  F.   W.,  murals, 

39i 

Benton,  Jessie,  elope- 
ment, 133;  school- 
days,   464 

— ,  T.  H.,  statue,  95; 
home,   134 

Berge,  Edzvard,  sculp- 
tor,   148 


Lord, 
106: 


war 


B 

Babcock,    Gen.    E.     O., 

127 
Bacon,  H.,   land,  arch., 

224,    354 
— ,  R.,   home,   238 
Baggage,    1 
Bailey,  J.,    102 
Baird,      S.      F.,     hoane, 

228,    246;    Mem.    tab- 
let,  247 
Baker,       Newton       W., 

res.,   465 
Balch,      Rev.      S.      B., 

464 ;    grave,    480 
Baley,  Adm.  T.,  grave, 

482 
Ball,     Thos.,     sculptor, 

96,    366 
Ballin,     C.     E.,     sculp., 

403 
Baltimore,     Lord,    415 
— ,  trolley      route,      19; 

motor    bus    line.    21 

—  &   Ohio  R.    R..'  98; 
station,   358 

—  &     Potomac 
station,    358 

Bancroft,      G.,      homes, 

192,    194 
— 'hotel,    rates,    5 
Bank      of      Alexandria, 

521 
Banks,    42 

Baptist    churches.    34 
Barber    shops,    43 
Barbour,  Justice  P.  P., 

grave,    410 
Barlow,    J.,    home,    224 
— ,  Maj.-Gen.,    154 
Barney,       Com.,       fleet 

burned,  xxxii 
Barracks,    Wash. 
Barron  -  Decatur 

192,    414 
Barry,   Com.   J.,   statue, 

232 


R.     R. 


350 
duel, 


INDEX 


527 


Bernard,    Sister,   grave, 

475 
Berret,     J.     G.,     home, 

236 
Bertinatti,      J.,      home, 

217 
Berwyn,    trolley    route, 

18,  416 
Bethlehem   chapel,  Nat. 

Cath.,  460 
Beveridge,  A.  J.,  home, 

220 
Beverly,         Robert, 

Georgetown  home,  477 
Bibliography,       xxxviii- 

xlvi 
Big  Hunting  creek,  488 
Bill    of    Rights,    490 
Biological       Soc.       of 

Wash.,   188 
— '  Survev    Bur.,    252 
Birds,    Dist.   of    Colum- 
bia,   321 
— ,  habitat  groups,   308- 

310 

G.    U  .,    sculp., 


S.,    home,    238 
Sir      Thomas, 


Bissell, 

403 
— ,W. 
Bladen, 

Bladensburg,  trolley 

route,  17;  battle, 
414;    descrip.,    414-15 

Blagden  family,  sum- 
mer home.  438 

"Blagden's    Row,"    151 

Blaine,  J.  G.-,  homes, 
188,  193.  231;  grave, 
481 

Blair,  Gen.  F.  P., 
statue,  95;  homes, 
194,    438;    tomb,    436 

Blair,    Mrs.     J.,    home, 

193 

— ,  Montgomery,     tomb, 

436 
Blake,   Dr.    T.    B.,  pres. 

"Oldest  Inhabitants," 

216 
Blashiield.    E.    H.,    mu- 
rals,   400,    401 
Blatchford,    Justice    S., 

home,   238 
Blodgett's    Hotel,    site, 

142 
Blossom  Inn.   9 
Blue  Mill  Tea  Room,  9 
Bluemont,    Va.,    trolley 

route,    1 9 
Board  of  Trade,  Wash., 

106 
Boarding    houses,    6 


Boardman,  Mabel  T., 
154;   home,  234 

Bodisco,  Baron,  mar- 
riage, 464,  478; 
'home,  470;  grave,  481 

Bodley,  Dr.  G.  F., 
arch.,   457 

Boggs,  T.  K.,  coll. 
medals,   333 

Bolivia,  legation,  40, 
228 

Bonani,  89 

Bonanni  Bros.,   97 

Bonaparte,  C.  J.,  home, 
220 

— ,  Jerome,    home,    238 

Bonnesen,   C.  J.,   126 

Book  of  Remembrance, 
Nat.  Cath.,  459 

Bookstores,  31;  earli- 
est, 100;  Lowder- 
milk's,    149 

Booth.  J.  Wilkes,  146; 
buried  in  Peniten- 
tiary,   351 

Borglum,  G.,  sculptor, 
93,      163,     165,     229, 

437,    507 

B  0  s  w  o  r  t  h,  W.  W., 
sculp.,    508 

Botanic  Gardens,  241- 
242 

Botanical    Seminar,    188 

—  Soc,  188 

Boundaries,  early,  xxvi 

Boundary  stones,  2nd 
N.  E.,  440;  3d  N. 
W.,  442;  1st,  513; 
dornerstone,    519 

"Bouquillon"     lib.,    421 

Boutwell,  G.  S.,  home, 
150 

Bowie  mansion,  George- 
town.  477 

Bowling,   2^ 

Boxing,   27 

Boyce  lane,  George- 
town,  478 

— ,  W.  M.,  Georgetown 
home,  478 

Boyd,  Wm.,  ethnol. 
models,    372;    sculp., 

373 
Boyle,    J.    J.,    sculptor, 

232,    402 
Boys'    Club    of    Wash., 

132 
Bracken  ridge,        Rev. 

John.    136 
Bracquecond,       mosaic, 

324 


Braddock,    Gen.,    land 

ing»      352;      Brad 

Stone,      458;      hdqrs 

Alexandria,    519 

Braddock's    Hgts.,    488 

— ■  hotel,        Alexandria 

5i9 
Bradford,    John,    mem 

cross,   436 
Bradley,     G.     L.,     colt 

engravings,   370 
— ,  Joseph     H.,     home 

— ,  W.  A.,  pres.     "Old 

est   Inhabitants,''    216 
Brady    coll.    Civil    War 

photos,    352 
Brazil,      embassy,      40, 

191;  former  legation, 

199 
Brazilian  Coffee  House, 

9 
Bredkenridge,     Gen.     J. 

C.,  house,  362;  at  Ft. 

Stevens,   439 
— ,  Rev.,      Harewood 

est.,  433 
— ;  W.  D.,  botanist,  241 
Brewer,   Justice    D.    J., 

home,  207 
Brice,  C.  S.,  home,   192 
Brightwood,   438 
Brooke,     Gen.     J.     R., 

relics,   330 
Brookland,      trolley 

route,     15;     descrip., 

414-416,  422 
Brook's  mansion,  422 
Brooks,  R.  E.,  sculptor, 

95 

"Brother  Jonathan,"  93 

Brown,  Bedford,  engr., 
229 

— ,  Dr.,  phys.  to  Wash- 
ington, 495 

— ,  G.  H.,  114 

— ,  Glenn,  engr.  Rock 
Creek  bridge,  229; 
arch.,   524 

— ,  Justice  H.  B.,  home, 
204 

— ,H.  K.,  sculp.,  91, 
92,  200 

— ,  J.  B.,  early  land- 
lord,  100 

— ,  Gen.  Jacob,  grave, 
410 

— ,  M.,    home,    236 

— Betty  Tea   Room,  9 

—  Tea  Pot,  tea  room,  9 

Browne,  H.  K.,  sculp., 
366 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


Brumidi,      C,      murals, 
61,  65,  76,  79,  81,  83, 
87,  88,  362 
Bryan,   H.   S.,   Mexican 

coll.   295 
— »  W.  J.,  home,  403 
Bryce,    J.,    home,    224 
Bitberl,   C,   sculp.,    139, 

324,    521 
Buchanan,    Pres.,    lodg- 
ings,    152;     proposed 
mem.,     208;     church, 
231 ;     relics,     277; 
summer  home,  434 
—  st.,   bus  line,   21 
Budget,  Bur.  of,    124 
Bulfinch,    C,   arch.,   52, 

232;  home,   151 
Bulgaria,    legation,    40 
Bulwer,     R.,    "Lucile," 

190 
Bureaus,      Govt.     <  See 
under        individual 
names. 
— ,  Smithsonian,    259 
Burlingame,     A.,     res., 

100 
Burlington  apt.,   220 
Burke,     Capt.      J.      G., 

grave,  507 
Burnes,      David,     prop- 
erty,   xxvii;     on    Pa. 
Ave.,  97;   farm,   147; 
home,  170;  grave,  437 
— ,  Marcia,        marriage, 
107;       burial       place, 
437;    mausoleum,   482 
Burnett,    Mrs.    F.     H., 

home,   229,   239 
Burnham,  D.  H.,  arch., 

357,  358 
— ,  G.,  land,   arch.,   208 
Burr,  Aaron,  home,  149 
Butler,      Gen.      B.      F., 

home,  404 
Butt,      A.      W.,      mem. 

fountain,   153 
Butterflies,    Iddings 
aoll.,   321 


C   Street,    1 31-136 
Cabin      John       Bridge, 

trolley       route,       15; 

descrip.,  483-484 
Carle    offices,    23 
Cafeterias,  9 
Caffery,  Father  A.,  147, 

362 
Colder,    A.    S.,    sculp., 

250 


Caldwell,  Mary  G.,  gift 
to    Cath.    Univ.,    418 

—  hall,  418,  419 

— ' — -chapel,    419-420 

— 'house,    134 

Calhoun,  J.  C,  statue, 
93;  lodgings,  99, 
187,  364;  homes, 
133,  iSi,  4775  church, 
196;  temp.  bur.  place, 
410 

Calvert,   Benet,    415 

— ,  Eleanor,  marriage, 
488,   493 

— estate,   415-416 

Cameron,     Don,     home, 

239 

— ,  G.,    bldr.,    434 

Campbell,  G.  W.,  home, 
217 

— ,  H.    G.,    grave,    409 

— ■,  James,    home,    133 

Cannon,  J.  G.,  home, 
220 

Canoeing,   27 

Canterbury  a  m  b  0  n  , 
Nat.  Cath.,  459 

Capellano,  A.,  sculp., 
60,  63 

Capital  Traction  Co., 
10-13 

Capitol,  choice  of  site, 
xviii,  xxviii;  burned, 
1 812,  xxxii;  rebuilt, 
xxxii ;  restaurant,  7 ; 
gen.  descrip.,  50-96; 
o  r  i  g  .  ,  cornerstone, 
64 ;  Amateis  bronze 
doors,  263-265;  old 
b  i  d  g  .  ,  364-  365; 
trowel  used  for  cor- 
nerstone, 519;  site 
desired  by  Jefferson, 
522 

— ■  hill,  xviii 

—  park,   356 

— 'Park  (hotel),  rates, 
4;   restaurant,   7;loc, 

357 

—  power   plant,   405 
Capron,      Capt.     Allyn, 

grave,    506 
— ,  Capt.   E.   A.,   grave, 

506 
— ,  family  relics,   327 
— ,  Gen.     H.,    2d    com. 

agric,   252 
Carlyle,    J.     G.,    home, 

238 
— ,  Col.     John,     gift    to 

Christ     Ch.,     514; 

home,   519 


Carnegie,     A.,     gift    to 

Pan  Araer.   Un.,   163, 

171;     to     Pub.     Lib., 

226 
— ■  E  n  d  o  w.     Internat. 

Peace,  lib.,  39 
— 'Inst,  of  Wash.,  201; 

Geophysical  Lab.,  441 
Carpenter,  F.  B.,  87 
Carrere     &     Hastings, 

archs.,   11 1,  353,  365, 

404 
Carroll,    Chas.,    of    Car- 

rollton,    statue,    95 
,  of        "Bellevue," 

479 
— ,  D.,  first  c  o  m  m  r., 
xxvi;  property  hold- 
ings, xxvii;  friction 
with  L' Enfant,  xxviii; 
real  estate  venture, 
350;  work  rebuilding 
Capitol,  364;  church, 
411;    commr.,   465 

—  Hall,   site,    150 
— ■  Inst,   lib.,  40 

— 1,  J.,  1st  bp.  of  Mary- 
land,       xxvi,        411; 
founder     Georgetown 
Coll.,  467;  statue,  468 
— ,  J.    L.,    home,    521 
— ,  Peter,   grave,    521 

—  Tobacco   House,   405 
Carusi's,  dancing  acad., 

104 
Casey,     E.     P.,     arch., 

156,    241,    369,    377, 

385,    400 
— ,  Gen.    T.    L.,    engr., 

127,  344,  369 
Cass,  Lewis,  statue,  92; 

homes,     190,     214; 

church,   196 
Catacombs,     Franciscan 

Mon.,  427 
Caterers,  32 
Cathedral   of    St.   Peter 

and     St.     Paul,     455- 

458 
— •  Sch.    for    Boys,    459 

for   Girls,    461 

Catholic    Sisters'    Coll., 

418,   423 

—  Univ.  of  Amer.,  lib., 
38;    descrip.,   416-423 

Causici,  E.,  sculp.,  63, 
89 

Cemeteries :  Arlington, 
504-512;  Battle  Field, 
Ft.  Stevens,  439; 
Bethel,  Alexandria, 
521;    Christ    Ch..   Al- 


exandria,  515;  Christ 
Ch.  (Congressional), 
406,  408;  Convent  of 
Visitation,  475;  Glen- 
wood,  363 ;  Alt.  Oli- 
vet, 414;  Mt.  St. 
Sepulchre,  429;  Nat., 
Alexandria, 
521 ;  Nat.  Cem.,  435; 
Oak  Hill,  479-483; 
Prospect  Hill,  363; 
Rock  Creek,  436-438 

Cenotaphs,  Cong,  cem., 
408 

Census  Bur.,  office,  245 

Centenary  celebration, 
1893,    64 

Centre 'House  Inn,  site, 
152 

Ceramics,  Nat.  mus., 
339 

Chamber  of  Com.,  U. 
S.,  hdqrs.,    191 

,  Wash.,    106 

Chamberlain,  Dr.  L.  T., 

311 
Chaminade    Inst.,    418 
Chandler,  Z..  statue,  93 
Channing,   Rev.  W.  H., 

pastorate,    232 
Chase,        Salmon        P., 
home,     140;     church, 
196 
— 1,  Justice    church,    196 
Chelmonski,   106 
Chemical        S  o  c  .        of 
^  Wash.,    189 
Chemistry    Bur.,    252 
Cherry    Alley,    George- 
town,   463,    465 
Chesapeake     &     Ohio 
Canal,      463;      monu- 
ment, 465 
Chevy      Cha-:e,      trolley 
route,    12.    13 

Circle,   442 

— '—Club,    31,    442 
Chi-Kang,   home,    100 
Children's     Court,    362 
Childs'  restaurant,  9 
Chile,       embassy,       40; 
former  leg.,   199,  238 
China,       legation,       40; 
former  leg.,  201,  235, 
239 

—  stores,    32 
Chloriviere,    Father, 

tomb,   475 
Chodzinski,     C,    sculp., 

108 
Christian    churches,    34 

—  Science    churches,  34 


INDEX 

■  lib.,   40 

Christ  Church,  405, 
406;  cemetery,  406, 
408 

— ■ — ,  Alexandria,    514 

,  Georgetown,    472 

Churches,   33-37 

For  individual 
churches  see  their 
names;  also  denom- 
inations 

Cigar  stores,   32 

Cilley,  J.,  lodgings, 
133;    duel,   414 

Cinderella  Tea  Garden, 
9 

City   Club,   30 

—  Hall,    137 

—  hotel,        Alexandria, 

Civil  Service  Coram., 
lib.,  38;  office,   153 

—  W  a  r  ,  transforms 
city,  xxxiii;  review 
Fed.  veterans,  xxxiv; 
relics,    324-328 

Claggett,  Bp.,  ded. 
Christ  Ch.,  406;  bur- 
ial pi,   458,   461 

Claggett's  tavern,  Al- 
exandria,  516 

Claims  Court  of  U.  S., 
195 

—  Hall,  431 

Clark,      A.     P.,      arch., 

202 
— ,  Edw.,  arch.,  53,  97, 

M3 
— .  ^en.   W.  A.,  homes, 

202,    229 
Clarke,    J.     P.,     statue, 

92 
— ,  M.       S.,       mansion, 

190 
Clay,    H.,    lodgings,   99, 

187;        death,        100; 

church,      132;     home, 

192;    duel,    414;    Mo. 

Compromise   bill,   416 
C  1  a  y-S  m  i  t  h  ,      Gen. 

Green,   grave,   506 
Clean    Drinking   manor, 

442 
Clements,   Gabrielle, 

murals,    148 
Cleveland,     Pres., 

church,       134,       136; 

''Red      Top"      home, 

441 
— •  Park,    441 
Clinton,    G.,    statue,    91 


529 

— ,  Vice     Pres.,     death, 

217 
Clothiers,     32 
Clubs,   29-31.     See  also 

under  individual  clubs 
Cluss,   A.,    10 1 

—  and   Schulze,    archs., 
324 

Coast    and    Geod.     Sur- 
vey,   lib.,    39;    office, 
405 
Coaites,  John,   442 
Cobb,     Howell,     home, 

103 
Coqkburn,      Adm., 
blockade       of       city, 
1812,     xxxi;     hdqrs., 
403  , 

Coleman   Mus.,   469 
Colfax,     Vice-Pres., 
church,      136;     home, 
193 
Collamer,  J.,  statue,  92 
Cohnan,    N.    J.,    home, 

222 
Colombia,    legation,    40, 

201 
Colonization   Bldg.,   99 
Colorado    Bldg.,    150 
Columbia    car    line,    17 
— -Country     Club,     31, 
442 

—  Hist.    Soc,   37,    141 

—  Hosp.     for     Women, 
218 

—  Inst.      Deaf     Mutes, 
362,   366-368 

Columbian    Bldg.,    140 

—  Inst.,   est.   Bot.    Gar- 
dens, 241 

— 1  Title    Ins.    Co.,    140 

—  Univ.,   215 
Columbus     Mem.     Lib., 

regulations, 
37;   bldg.,    167 
Commerce    Bldg.,    216 

—  Comm.,       Interstate, 
216 

—  Dept.,    lib.,    38 
Commissioners,     of     D. 

C,        xxxv,      xxxvii; 

name   city,    465 
Compagnie  Gen.  Trans- 

atlantique.     See 

French    Line 
Concerts,  26 
Confectioners,    32 
Confederate         Dead 

Mon.  Arlington,   509; 

Alexandria,    515,    521 
Congregational 

churches,    34 


530 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


Congress  Hall  Hotel, 
rates,  4;  res't,  7; 
loc,    405 

Congress  Heights,  trol- 
ley   route,    16,    413 

Congressional 
Cem.,  408-410 

—  Club,   30,   207 
— Country   Club,  31 

— Lib.    See  Lib.  of  Con- 
gress 
— 'Record,  361 
Conkling,  Roscoe,  home,  j 

237 
Connecticut    (apt. 

house),    223 
— •  ave.,     222-225,     440_! 

442 
Connor,  J.,  sculp.,  468, 

482" 
Conrad    and    McMunn, 

—,  C.  H.,   90,  96 

—j  Mrs.     M.      E.      A., 

grave,    503 
Continental       Cong., 

records,    370 

—  Hall,  D.  A.  R., 
155-162 

—  Hotel,  rates,  4;  res- 
taurant,   7;    loc,    356 j 

Convent  of  the  Visita- 
tion,   473,    475 

Conway,  Rev.  M.  D., 
pastorate,    232 

Cooke,  Henry  D.,  1st 
gov.,   xxxiv 

Coolidge's    hotel,    364 

Coombs,  M.,  restaura-j 
teur,    103 

Cope  &  Stewardson,  108 - 

Copper  Bowl,  tea  room, 

9    .   . 

Coppini,    P.,   92 

Corcoran  Art  Gallery, 
171-184;  orig.  bldg., 
194 

— ,  School  of  Art,  171, 
184;  founder,  200 

— ■  Scien.   Sch.,  214 

— ,  Thos.,  Georgetown, 
462;  founder  Christ's 
Ch.,    472 

Corcoran,  W.  W.  107; 
gift  of  Art  Gall.,  171  ; 
home  site,  191;  court- 
ship, 199;  founder 
of  Louise  Home, 
228;  Harewood  est., 
433 ;  endows  Oak 
Hill  cem.,   479;   mon. 


Payne,     480 ;    mauso- 
leum, 482 
Correa     da     Serra,     J., 

home,    217 

Corrie,  John,  statue,  95 

Costa      Rica,     legation, 

40;    former   leg.,   222 

Cosmos    club,    30,    188- 

199 
— ■  theatre   rates,   25 
Costaggini,   F.,    61 
Costumes,     hist,      doll., 

331 
Council    of    Royal    Gov- 
ernors,  519 
Couper,     Wm.,     sculp., 

109,   223 
Court,    Children's,    362 
" —  End,"    Georgetown, 

463 
—  House,   District,    137 
— ■  of    Appeals,   District, 

138 
— •  of   Claims   of   U.    S., 

195 
Covenant     church,     223 
Cox,     Kenyon,    murals, 

393  v  «T7 

V .,       Emery 

438       ■ 

S.,    "Army," 


Cox,"  W. 

Place," 
Coxey,  J. 

xxxv 
Craik,   Dr. 


J.,  phys.  to 
Washington,  478,  495; 
home,    520 

— ,  AVm,    478 

C  r  a  m  &  Ferguson, 
archs. ,    45  7 

Crampton,  Sir   J.,  home, 

478 
Cranston,  Pp..  promoter 

Amer.    Univ.,    44 
Crawford,      T.,     sculp., 

58,   75;   doors,   House 

Rep.,    88;    "Liberty," 

329 

Crematory,    410 

Cret,    P.    P.,    architect,, 

163 
Crittenden,   Atty.    Gen., 

home,    189 
— ,  oak,    242,    244 
Crook,      Gen.      G.      TL, 

grave,  508 
Crop  Est.   Bur..  252 
Crosby     House.      132 
Crowninshield,    B.    W., 

home,    217 
— ,  Mary  B.,  grave,  512 
— ,  Adm.   S.,  grave,  512 
Crozier,       Gen.       Wm., 

home,    228 


Crutchet  house,   136 

Cuba,  legation,  40,  208; 
former   leg.,    199 

Cullum,  S.  M.,  home, 
228 

Culpeper,  Lord,  grant 
to  Col.  Washington, 
491,   498 

Cunard    S.S.    Line,   43 

Currency,  Comptroller 
of,   124 

Curry,  J.  L.  M„  statue, 
92 

Curtis  Sch.,  George- 
town,   472 

Custis,  Eleanor  (Nel- 
lie), birthplace,  488; 
adopted  by  Washing- 
ton, 494;  marriage, 
494;    grave,    503 

Custis,  Eliz.  Parke, 
350,    405 

— ,  G.  W.,  adopted  by 
Washington,   494 

— ,  G.  W.  P.,  title  Ar- 
lington Est.,  504; 
grave.   509 

— ,  J.  P.,  home,  488; 
marriage,  493;  death, 
494;  title  Arlington 
est.   504 

- — ,  Martha,    death,    493 

— >,  Martha  D.,  mar- 
riage to  Washington, 
493;   death,   495 

— ,  Martha  P.,  239, 
476 

— ,  Mary  L.,  grave,  509 

— ,  P.,    schoolda}^,    464 

Cutts.  R..  homes,  148, 
189 

Czechoslovakia,  lega- 
tion,  40,    225 

Czolgosz.  L.  F.,  slayer 
of     McKinley,    xxxvi 

D 

Daguerre,     L.     J.     M., 

mem.,   251 
Dahlgren    Adm.,    home, 

136;   daughter,    194 
Dallas,      Vice-Pres., 

church,    196 
D' Angers,   D.,   63 
Daniels,      Josephus, 

home,   225 
Danish  Rose  tea  room,  9 
Dante,   statue,   208 
Darnell,      H.,      George- 
town   tract,    462 


INDEX 


531 


D'Ascenzo,  N.,  fres- 
coes,   168 

Daugherty,  H.  M.,  resi- 
dence,  441 

Daughters  Amer.  Rev., 
37;  Mem.  Hall,  155- 
162 

Davidson,   S..  xxvii 

Davis,  Mrs.  B.,  jewels, 
198 

— ,  Sen.    C.    K.,    grave, 

S07 
— ,  G.   B.,  home,    192 
— ,  Jeff.,    church,     150; 

homes,     214,     236; 

Cabin      Tohn     bridge, 

483 
— ,  Rev.     Saml.,    grave, 

481 
— ,  W.    S.,    sculp.,    507 
Davis's   hotel,    100,    135 
Deaf,    Volta   Bur.,  475 
—  Columbia    Inst.,   366- 

368 
De    Bresson,     C  a  t  h  .  , 

grave,  409 
Debts,     state,     assumed 

by   first   govt.,    xxiv 
Ddqatur,     S.,    homes, 

185,    192;    temp.    bur. 

place,     225;     duel    w. 

Barron,    414 
Declaration      of      Inde- 

pend.,    signing  (paint- 
ing).   63 
Die  Garambonville,  Gen. 

T.,   home,   217 
Deinard   coll.   Hebraica, 

37o 
DeLand,   Dr.    F.,   476 
De    la    Roche,    G.    F., 

landscape  arch.,  480 
De  Nesti,  A.,  sculp.,  109 
De      Neuville,      Baron, 

home,    192 
Denmark,   leg..   40,    107 
Depew,     Cliauncey, 

home,    192,    234 
De  Sibour,  J.  H.,  arch., 

230 
Dewey,     Adm.     G.,     pa- 
rade in  honor,  xxxvi; 

home.       238;       temp. 

burial   place,   511 
Dewing.  T.  W.,  coll.  in 

Freer    Gall.,    340 
Dick,      Dr.,      phys.      to 

Washington, 

495:  home.  520 
Dickens,    Mrs.    F.    W., 

china   coll.,   330 


Dicky's      tavern,      485, 

486 
Dielman,    F.,    105;    mo- 

saic)s,   382 
Digges,   Dudley,  xxix 
—  family,    490 
Disbrow,    W.    S.,    coll. 

N.    J.    minerals,    311 
Disinfection   plant,    410 
Dispensary,  Central, 

209 
— 1,  Northern,   233 
"District     Bldg,"      108- 

110 
• — 'Court  House,    137 
— '  Court      of      Appeals, 

.138 
District     of     Columbia, 
early  strife  over  loca- 
tion,   xxiii-xxiv;    first 
boundaries,  xxvi  (see 
also  Boundary)  ;    cor- 
nerstone,  519;  fauna, 
321 
— ■  Police    Court,    137 
Dix,    J.    A.,    home,    135 
Docks,    arrival    at,    2 
Documents,  pub.,   Supt. 

of,    362 
Dodge,    R.    L.,    murals, 

395 
— ,  W .    de    L.,    murals, 

379;    frescoes,    396 
"D  oily      Madison 

House,"   189 
Dolph,   Sen.,  home,   194 
Dome,    Capitol,    dimen- 
sions,     57;      descrip., 
64-66 
— (,  Lib.    Cong.,   400 
Dominican         Republic, 

legation,   41,   228 
Danoghue,,     /„     sculp., 

402,    403 
Doors,    bronze,    Capitol,! 
59-6o.     75,     88,     263-; 
265;  Lib.  Cong.,  374    j 
Dorsey,    Judge    W.    H.,! 
Georgetown      home, 
477 
Doubleday,      Gen.      A., 

grave,  507 
Douglas    Hosp.,    362 

—  Row,    362 

— ■,  S.    A.,   home,    362 
— ,     IV.    J.,    arch.,    209 
Douglass,      F.,      oration; 

Lincoln    statue,    366; 

home,    412,   489 

—  Mem.    Assn.,   412 
Dow,     Lorenzo,     grave, 

481 


Downing,    A.    J.,    land. 
arc,h.,  114;    mem.  urn, 
!       251 
I  Doyle,    A.,    sculp.,    91, 

1       95 
Draft      Board,      former 

hdqrs.,    144 
Driscoll    (hotel),    rates, 

4;    restaurant,    7 
!  Drug   stores,    32 
Dubois,   P.,   sculp.,   208 
Duelling    ground,     Bla- 

densburg,    414 
Dumbarton,     Rock     of, 

462 
— '  Tennis  Club,   3 1 
Dunbar  H.   Sch.,  362 
— ,  P.    L„   362 
— ,  U.     S.     J.,     sculp., 

109,     no,    221,    482; 

ethnol.    groups,     292, 

293,   294 
"Dunston  Hall,"   490 
Dupont,     Adm.     S.     F., 

mem.  fountain,  224 

—  Circle,   224 

E 

Early,    Gen.   J.    A.,   ad- 
vance  on   city,   xxxiii 
Easby,  Capt.  Wm.,  410 
Eastern   branch,  412 
— ■  Br.    hotel,   410 

—  H.   S.,  411 

Eaton,     Gen.,    marriage 

to      Peggy      O'Neale, 

217 
— ,  J.  H.,  grave,  482 
Ebenezer     M.     E.     Ch., 
^  405,   411 
Ebbitt    House,    149 
Eccard,    A.,    arch.,    138 
Ecuador,     legation,     41, 

203;  former  leg.,  236 
Edmonds,    Sen.,    home, 

229 
Education  Bur.,  lib.,  38 
Educational  Assn.,  Nat., 

200 
Efficiency    Bur.,    office, 

..:S3 
EidlitZ,    L.,    tablet,    212 
Eighteenth    st.,    234-235 
Elder,  J.   A.,    521 
Eleventh    st.,   car    lines, 

16-17 
Eliot,  Chas.  W.,  in- 
scriptions on  post  of- 
fice. 357;  union  sta- 
tion, 359;  Lib.  Cong., 
402 


532 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


Elkins,     S.     B.,     home, 

238 
Ellicott,     A.,     2d     city 

engr.,    xxix 
— ,  H.    J.,    sculp.,    101; 

ethnol.    models,    289, 

299,  300,  372 
Elliott,     W.     P.,    arch., 

143;   grave,  409 
Ellis, m  G.    W.,    Jr.,    Li- 

berian   coll.,   301 
Ellsworth,    Col.    E.    E., 

Zouaves,    no;    death, 

521. 
— ,  H.   L.,  home,   133 
Emancipation     M  o  n  .  , 

Lincoln,   366 

—  Proclamation,,  sign- 
ing of    (painting),  87 

Embassies,    40-42 
Embroidery  shops,   32 
Emergency  Fleet  Corp., 

offices,   347 
— Hosp.,  209 

,  Northern,    233 

Emery,    M.    G.,    homes, 

362,  438;  mon.,  Rock 

Cr.,    438 

—  Mem.   Ch.,   438 
Emory,    Mrs.     W.     H., 

Alaskan   coll.,   291 
Employees',    _  (U.       S.) 
Compensation     Com., 

245 
Engineer    Sch.,    Army, 

350-351 

Engineers,  Wash.  Soc, 
189 

English,  Lydia,  Young 
Ladies'    Sem.,    464 

Engraving  and  Print- 
ing Bur.,  348-349 

Entomology    Bur.,    252 

Epiphany,  Church,  150, 
207 

Episcopal  Eye,  Ear  and 
Throat  Hosp.,, 231 

—  Theol.  Sem.,  Va., 
488 

Ethnology  Bur.,  260; 
exhibits,  Nat.  Mus., 
288-303;  Amer.,  misc. 
colls.,  313-318;  carv- 
ings on  Lib.  of  Cong., 

372-373 
Eustis,    W.     C,    home, 

192 
Evans,     Adm.     R.     D., 

home,  132;   grave,  507 
— ,  Wm.       T.,      coll. 

Amer.    art,   272,   273- 

275,  278 


Evarts,  W.  M.}  home, 
236 

Everett,  Edw.,  home 
site,  214;  contrib.  to 
Mt.  Vernon  fund, 
496 

— 'hotel,  rates,  5;  res- 
taurant,  9 

Evening  Star  (paper), 
105,   228 

Ewell,  Dr.,  home,   193 

Ewing,  Sen.  T  h  o  s., 
home,    194 

Executive  Mansion, 
1 11-122;  temp,  in 
Octagon    House,    211 

— ■  offices,   113 

Explorers,    early,    xxv 

Ezekiel,  M.,  sculp., 
i95>   5io 

F 

F   street,    141-149 
Fabre    S.    S.    Line,   43 
Fairbanks,    Vice    Pres., 

church,     134;    homes, 

229,  238 
Fairfax,    Bryan,    home, 

488 
— ,  G.  W.,  church,  523 
— ,  Sarah,  marriage, 

5i9 
— ,Thos.,    ou'g.     Alexan- 
dria,  513;   home,   516 
— ,  Wm.,  home,   490 
Falguiere,     A.,      scuId., 

185 
Fall,    A.    B.,    residence, 

441 
Falls        Church,        Va., 

trolley   route,    19 
Farm    Man,    and    Econ. 

Bur.,   252 
Farragut,    Adm.,    duel, 

185;        statue,       222; 

relics,  325 
—  sq.,    222 
Fassett,     Mrs.     C.     A., 

74,    103 
Federal       Farm       Loan 

Bur.,   off.,    144 
"Female  Stranger," 

484,   521;   tomb,   522 
Fencing,   27 
Ffoulke,    C.    M.,   home, 

229;    tomb,   437 
Field,    Justice,    church, 

150;    home,   365 
— ,  Cyrus      W.,       early 

cables,    325,    326 


" —  of  the  Dead,"  Ar- 
lington,   509 

Fifteenth    St.,    230-231 

Fillmore,  Pres.,  home, 
133;  church,  137,  196, 
231,   233 

Filtration     plant,      city, 

363 
Finland,    legation,   41 

Fire    dept.,    xxxvii 

First      Baptist      ch., 

former       site,        145; 

loc,    201 

—  Nat.  Bank,  Alex- 
andria,  521 

—  Presbyterian  ch., 
136 

Fish.  Hamilton,  church, 
196;    home,    201 

Fisheries  Bureau,  lib., 
39;  gen.  descrip., 
245  -  247 ;  hatchery, 
490 

Fixed  Nitrogen  Re- 
search   Lab.,    252 

Flag  and  Drum  Inn,  9 

Flagg,  E.,  arch.,    171 

Flags,  historic,  from 
Lincoln  box,  Ford's 
Th.,  .124;  Ft.  Sum- 
ter, 130;  funeral 
Amers.  lost  on  Tus- 
canict,  328;  the  "Star 
Spangled  Banner"  of 
Ft.    McHenry,    329 

Flanagan,  J.,  sculp., 
402 

Flannery,  Lot,  sculp., 
138     "       , 

Florida    ave.,    car    line, 

13 
"Florida      case     before 

Electoral       Com  m." 

(painting),  74,   103 

Florists,    32 

Football,  27 

Foote,  Adm.  A.  H., 
relics,    325 

—  (fort),    489 
Foraker,    J.    B.,    home, 

202 
Force,  P.,  site  of  home, 

103 
Force   Pub.    Sch.,   228 
Ford    warehouse,    99 
Ford's  opera  house,  102 

—  theatre,     103,    145 
Foreign        and        Dom. 

Com.    Bur.,   216 

—  trade  advisers,  office, 
194 


Forest       Glen,       trolley 

route,   is 
Forestry    Bur.,    252 
Fort  Myer,   route,   487, 

505 
— ■  Foote,    489  . 

—  Hunt,  490 

—  Lyon,    488 

— ■  McPherson,    509,511 
— Stevens,    438 

—  Washington,    490 
Forest,    Gen.   U.,   Rose- 
dale  home^   440,   555; 
mayor       Georgetown, 
462 

Fossils,   coll.,   280-288 
Foundry     Church      (M. 

E.),    orig.    site,    150; 

history,  202 
Four  Mile  Run,  488 
Fourteenth       st.,      car 

lines,    11-12;  descrip., 

231-234 
Fourth  st.,  car  line,   16 
Fox  &   Van    Hook,   real 

estate,  412 

—  G.  V.,  coll.  Russian 
life,  330 

— '-Randall    duel,   414 

Foxhall  Foundry,  site, 
466 

— ,  H.,  founds  Foundry 
Ch.,    202 

France,  embassy,  41, 
208;  former  leg.,  237 

Franciscan  Monastery, 
lib.,  39;  gen.  de- 
scrip.,   423-429 

Franklin,  B.,  statue, 
103;  cane,  129;  in- 
terest in  farmers, 
252;     printing    press,) 

—  house,  215,   217,   218 
— ■  school,    238 
Franklin    inn,    site,    151 
— park,    232,    2Z7 

—  sq.  hotel,  rates,  5 ; 
restaurant,    8 

Franzo)ii,  C,  sculp., 
home,     136,    403 

— ,  G.,    sculp.,   82,   89 

F razee,  J.,  67 

Freedman's    hosp.,    430 

Freeman,  Mrs.  Mar- 
garet,  home,    190 

Freemasonry,  Old 

Masoniq  Temple, 
144;  Masonic  Tern., 
231;  Scottish  Rite 
Tern.,  204-207;  cere- 
mony, cornerstone 
Washington    M  o  n  .  , 


INDEX 

343:  Washington 

Lodge  No.  22,  517- 
19;  p  r  oposed  W  ash- 
ington   Mem.,  522 

Freer  Gallery  of  Art, 
339-342 

Frelinghuysen,  J.  S. 
home,    199 

— ,  T..    home,    236 

Fremont,  Gen.  J.  C., 
elopement,    133 

French,  D.  C,  sculp., 
93»  154,  224,  368, 
402;  ''Lincoln 
Triumphant,"    355 

French  drawings,  con- 
temp.,   270,   272 

French    S.    S.    Line,    43 

Friends'  meeting 
house,   36,   237 

"Friendship"  tract. 
444 

Frohaman,  Robb  & 
Little,    archs.,    457 

Fuller,  Ch.  Justice, 
church,  196;  home, 
214,   229 

Fulton,  R.,  statue,  92, 
402;  first  steamboat, 
224 

Fungicide     Bd.,     252 

Furness-Bermuda    Line, 

43. 
Furnished    rooms,    5 


533 


G 

John, 


home. 


Gadsby 

193 
Gadsby's   hotel,   99 
— •  row,    218 
—  tavern,      Alexandria, 

5i6 
Gales,      Joseph,     home, 

190,    193 
— .  J.,    Jr.,    home,    152 
Gallatin,  Albert, 

church,  464 
Gallaudet    college,    366- 

368 
— ,    E.  M.,  367 
— ,        T.       H.,       367; 

statue,  368 
Gait,  A.,  67 
Games,  26-29 
Garfield     (apt.     house), 

235 
— ,  Pres.,    assassination, 

xxxv,      244;      statue, 

92;        church,        221; 

home    site,    235;    me- 
morial,  240 


431 


coli. 

arch., 
395, 


—  mem.    hosp., 

—  park,   406 
Garlington,       Gen.       E. 

A.,    head    Greely    Re- 
lief  Exp.,    235 

G  a  11  s  e  v  o  0  r  t 
swords.  330 

Garnscy,  E.  E., 
385;  murals, 
397 

Garrett,   J.   W.,   98 

— coll.   prints,    370 

Gaston      hall,      George- 
town coll.,  469 

Gayety     theatre,     rates, 
25 

Gems,   coll.,   311 

General      Land      Office, 
213 

General     Staff     College 
lib.,    37 

—  Supply  Com.,  offices, 
348 

Gentlewomen's  tea 

room,   9 
Geographic    Soc,    Nat., 

199 
Geological   Survey,  lib., 

39 }   offices,    213 
Geology,    xx-xxii.      See 

also    Paleontology 
Geophysiiejal   lab.,    441 
George     Washington 

Hosp.,  231,  232 
— ■ — -hotel,    Bladens- 

burg,  415 
inn,        rates,        4; 

restaurant,      7;      loc, 

405 
•  univ.,         214-215; 

law   lib.,    232 
Georgetown,    made   part 

of  city,  xxxv;   trolley 

routes,   10- 11,   15,  18; 

descrip.,    462-483 

—  Heights,   476-479 
— 1  univ.,    hosp.,    467 
s  Law    School,    99, 

140;     lib.,    38;     Med. 

Dept.  lab.,   149: 

467-470 
Georgia  ave.,  car 

15-16;    descrip. 

440 
Germany,    embassy,    41, 

224,    226,    228 
Gerry,    E.,    proposal    of 

capital      site,       xxiii; 

home,      217;      grave, 

409 


coll., 

lines, 
430- 


534 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


Gevelot,    N„  63 
Gibbons   Hall,    419 
Giesboro    Pt.,    489 
Gill,  De  Lancey,  arch., 

316 
— ,  W.     H.,     sculpture, 

Gilliss,    Lt.    J.    M.,    443 
Glastonbury       cathedra, 

Nat.    Cath.,    458 
Glen    Echo    park,    trol- 
ley route,   is,  483 
Glenwood:  cemetery,  363 
Glide,     G.     W.,     statue, 

92 
Globe    Hotel,     107 
Glover,     C.     C.,     home, 

i93>  239 
Golf,  28;   Potomac  Pk., 


352 


Gompers, 
363 

Gonzaga 

-site,    14; 


home, 


College,  old 
,5;    hist.,   362 

Goodyear.  Chas.,  home, 
236 

Gordon,  Geo.,  George- 
town,  462 

Gordon    hotel,    rates,    5 

Gorman.  A.  P.,  home, 
193.    238 

Gould,  Jay,  gift  to 
Mt.    Vernon,    497 

Government,  D.  C., 
first  experiments, 

xxx ;  modified,  1820, 
xxxii:  te  r  r  ito  r  i  a  1 
govt.,  1871,  xxxiv; 
commission,  xxxv;  ad- 
ministration, xxxvi- 
xxxviii 

" —  Hotels/'    356 

—  Prtg.    Off.,    361-362 

—  (Vedder),    385 
Governors.         royal, 

taxation   council,    519 
Grace      ch.      (P.      E.), 

Georgetown,   465 
Grace    Dodge    hotel,    7, 

356 
— •  Reformed    ch.,    231 
Grafton    hotel,    rates,    5 
Grain    Fuit.    Trad.    Act. 

Admin.    252 
Grammar.  G.  C.,  home, 

134 
Grand     Army      of     the 

Rep.,       Stephenson 

mon.,      1 01:      hdqrs., 

in 
Grant     bldg.,     Soldiers' 

H.,    434 


— circle,   432 

— ,  Gen.    F.    D.,    relics, 

326;    Philippine   coll., 

300 
— ,  Mrs.    U.    S.,    home, 

229 
— ,  Pres.,     inau  g  u  r  a  1 

ball,       124;       church, 

z34>         136;         mem. 

tablet,    135 ;      1865 

hdqrs.,      153;      mem. 

mon.,  242-243;   relics, 

324,   326;   home,   362 
Graphic       arts       exhib., 

258.        See        also 

Printers'    marks 
Graves,     W.     J.,     duel, 

414 
Gray    &    Pope,    archs., 

238 
— ,  W.  B.,  arch.,  201 
— ,  Justice      H,     home,: 

199 
Great  Britain,  embassy, 

41,   223;   former  leg.,! 

190 
Great   Falls   inn,   486 

of    Potomac,    trol- ! 

ley  route,  19 
—  —  park,  485 
Greece,      legation,      41, 


427;     of     Bethlehem, 

428 
Grover's    Theatre,     108 
Guatemala,         legation, 

41;    former   leg.,    224 
Guiteau,    C.    J.,    slayer 

of      Garfield,      xxxv; 

execution,   410 
Gunnell,      Dr.      T.      S., 

home  site,    1S7 
Gutherz,    Carl,    murals, 

382 
Gymnasium       (theatre), 

102 
Gymnasiums,   26 
Gwin,     W.     M.,    home, 

132 

H 


"Greek     Slave''     {Pow- 
ers),   174 
Greely,     Gen.     A.     W., 

home,    214 
—  relief    expedition, 

235 
Green,  B.   R.,   work   on 

Pub.    Lib.,   226,    369 
— ,  Dr.  Chas.,  523 
Greene,  Gen.         N., 

statue,  91,   366 
Greenleaf,    James,    real 

estate     venture,     350, 

412 
Greenleaf's    Point,    348 
Greenongh,    H.,    sculp., 

59.    259 
— ,  R.   S.,   90 
Greenwich   Inn,   9 
Grehum,        F.,       grave, 

409 
Gresham,  W.  Q.,  death,! 

190 
Gridiron   Club,    30,    no' 
Gross,      Prof.      S.      D.,; 

statue,  250 
Grotto    _  of       Nazareth, 

Franciscan       mon.,! 


:  Haberdashers,   22 
!  Hadfield,   G.,   arch.,   51, 
137,  482;  home,   144; 
;       grave,    409 
\  Hahnemann,    C.    S.    F., 
,       memorial,    200 
I  Hair    dressers,    32,    43 

Haiti,    legation,    41 
;  Hale,    J.    P.,    lodgings, 

100 
j  — ,  Rev.     E.     E.,     pas- 
torate,   232 
- — ,  Sen.    E.,    home,    199 
Hall,     Asaph,     astrono- 
mer,  443 
— ',  D.    A.,    home,    132 
Hallet,    Stephen   L.,    51 
Hallowell,     B.,     site    of 

school,    515 
Halsall,  W.  F.,  74 
Hamar,      F.,      sculptor, 

186 
Hamilton,    Ann,     135 
— ,  Alex.,     widow,     232 
Hamlin,  H.,  lodging,  99 
Hammersley,       Lolly, 

birthplace,    188 
Hancock,    Gen.    W.    S., 
monument,    101; 
relics,  327 
Hanna,     M.     A.,     resi- 
dence,   188 
Hanson,    John,     statue, 

95 
Hardenbergh,     H.      G., 

no 
Harlan,   Justice,   statue, 

95:     church,     231 
Harold,    execution,    351 
Harrington    hotel, 
rates,        4;        restau- 
rant, 8 


Harris,        Dr.,        home, 

193 
Harrison,  F.   B.,  home, 

201 
— ,  Mrs.   Burton,   home, 

5i6 
— }  N.  B.,  grave,  481 
— ,     Pres.,  church,    196, 

231 
Hartley,    J.    S.,    sculp., 

251 
Harts,     Col.     W.     \\\, 

115,   116;  plans  Meri- 
dian Pk.,  208 
Harvey's         restaurant, 

7,    103 
Hastings,  T.,  arch., 
Hattala  lib.    Slavic 

370 
Hawley,         Rev. 

mem.   tablet,    198 
Hay,   John,   home, 

199 
Hayes,     Pres.,     summer 

home,  434 
Hayne,     R.     W.,     lodg- 

99 

former       lega- 
220 

dept..    xxxvii 
home,   228 
A.,   erift   of 


154 

"lit., 

w., 

191, 


ings, 
Hayti, 

tion, 
Health 
Hearst,   Bp 
— ,  Mrs.    P. 


to 


seh.,      461;      gift 

Mt.    Vernon,    497 
Heat  on,    A.     B.,    arch., 

200,  224 
Heinzel  lib. 

philology,    215 
Hemming,    frieze, 
Henderson,         J. 

home,    207 
Hendley,    H.    W. 

tume      models, 

sculp.,    316 
Herald       (paper), 


Ger. 

150 
B., 

cos- 

331; 


106 
Henry, 

482" 
— ,  Prof 
Herbert. 


44, 


Jos., 


J.,   relics,  325 
M.,      ethnol. 

model,   301 
Herndon     House,     site, 

145 
Hewett,    R.,    coll.    Lin- 

aoln  medals,  333 
High  schools,  432 
Highlands         (apt. 

house),  224 
Hilda  stone,  Nat..  Cath., 

459 

Hillman    House,    356 


INDEX 

Hirst    lib.    coll.,    470 
History       of       city, 

xxiii-xxxvi 
Hoar,  G.   F.,  home,  234 

Hoban,  James,  arch., 
50,  111,  112,  142; 
home,    137 

Hobart.  G.  C,  resi- 
dence,  188 

Holiday,  B.,  home, 
237 

Holland-Amer.  Line, 
43 

Holliday,  H.,  windows, 
150 

Holmead    Mansion,    224 

Holmes,       Justice       O. 

W.,  home,  236 
— .  W.     H.,     ethnol. 

groups,       289,       290, 

292,         294;         Mex. 

temple    models,    316 
Holt    homestead,    447 

Holy   Cross   acad.,   228, 

441 
—  - —    coll..    418,   422 
Holy     Land,     Coll.     of, 

418,    429 
Honduras,    legation,    41 

Hookworm  disease  ex- 
hibit,  249 

Hooper,  Samuel,  grave, 
481 

Hopkins,  A.  S.,  sword 
coll.,  331 

Hornbloii'cr  &  Marsh- 
all,   archs.,    260 

Hopkins.  Capt.  Edw., 
duel,  414 

Horses  of  A.  E.  F., 
mem.    tablet,    131 

Hoiticu  1  t  u  r  a  1  Bd., 
Fed.,    252 

Hospitals,  42;  Colum- 
bia, for  Women, 
218;  Emergency, 
209;  Epis.  Eye,  Ear 
and  Throat,  231; 
Garfield  Mem.,  431; 
George  Washington, 
231 ;  Geor  getown 
Univ.,  467;  Lutheran 
Eye,  Ear  and  Throat, 
2}^;  Naval,  215; 
Northern  Emerg- 
ency, 233;  Provi- 
dence. 411 ;  St. 
Elizabeth's.,  413,  489; 
Walter    Reed,    440 


535 

Hotels,  list,  2-5.  See 
also  individual  names 

Houdon,    J.    A.,    statue 
of    Washington,    92; 
bust,    498 

House   numbers,    xx 

— ■  of  Reps.,  office 
bldg.,    403-404 

— ■  of  the  White  Pea- 
cock, tea  room,   9 

Houston,  S.,  statue,  90; 
l'odgings,  100;  resi- 
dence,   218 

Howard,  Gen.  O.  O., 
430 

—  hotel,    rates.    4 

— •  House,    100 

— Univ..  363,  430-431; 
law    dept.,     140 

Howe,  Justice  Ward, 
in 

— ,  T.    O.,   home,    236 

Howiand,  S.  S..  home, 
236;  coll.  Buddhist 
art,   297 

Howson,  R.,  orig.  grant 
Arlington  estate, 
504;  sells  site  of  Al- 
exandria,   s  1 3 

Hoxie,  Mrs.  J'.  R., 
sculp.,  63,  95,  96, 
222;  home.  238; 
monument,    511 

Hubard,    W.    J.,   63,   92 

Hubbard,  G.  G.,  Mem. 
Hall,  199 ;  coll. 
prints,  370:  "Twin 
Oaks,"    home,    441 

— ,  S.    G.,   home,    187 

Hubby,  Ella  F.,  coll. 
Ind.    baskets,    295 

Hughes,  C.  E.,  home, 
207 

''Human  understand- 
ing"  (Blashfield), 
401 

Hunt    (fort) ,    490 

— ,  R.    M.,    tablet,    212 

"Hunting  Creek 

Tract,''    491 

Hurst,  Bp.  J.  F.,  buys 
site  for  Araer.  Univ., 
444 

Hutchins    bldg.,     103 

— ,  S.,  103;  gift  of 
Webster  mon.,  201; 
home,  228 

Hygiene,  Naval  Mus., 
215 


536 


RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 


I   St.,  235-237 

I ar delta,   Francisco,   64 

Iddings.      J."    P.,     coll. 

butterflies,    321 
Immaculate    C  o  n  c  e  p- 

tion,     Coll.     of,     418, 

422 
Inaugural      balls,      124, 

138,     140,     143,    324 
Incunabula,         Thadher 

coll.,   370 
Indian      Affairs      Bur., 

offices,    213 
— ■  Queen,    100 
Indians,    native    tribes, 

xxv ;       ethnol.       e  x  - 

hibit,  288-296;  Aimer. 

aborigines,    313 
Ingalls,     J.     J.,    statue, 

92 
Inge-Stanley    duel,    414 
Ingersoll,  R.   G.,  home, 

189 
Insane       asylum,        St. 

Elizabeth's,         413; 

Govt.,  489 
Insecticide    Bd.,    252 
Interior     De.pt.,     bldg., 

213-214;  creation, 

252 
Internal      revenue  , 

coin'r.,    124 
International      A  m  e  r  . 

Conf.,   1st,  236 

—  Cat.      Scien.      Lit., 
260 

—  Exch.    Service,    260 

—  Joint  Cc«nm.,  hdqrs., 
144 

—  Reform    Bur.,    411 
Interstate         Commerce 

Comm.         lib.,         38; 

bldg.,    216 
Iowa    Circle,    221 
Iron      Hall       (theatre), 

103 
Italy.        embassy,        41, 

235;       former       leg., 

199,   222 
Itineraries,    46-49 
Ittner,     W.     B.,     arch., 

431 
Ives,   C.  B.,  93 


Jackson,  Justice  H.   E., 

home,   237 
— .,  Pres.    A.,    lodgings, 

99;         statue,         186; 


church,        136,       196, 
231;       homes,        217, 
447 
— ,  W.        H.,        pueblo 

model,   295 
Jaegers,     A.,     sculptor, 

186  _ 
Jail,   city,   410 
Japan,      embassy,      41 ; 

former    leg.,    220 
Japanese    cherry    trees, 

352 
Jefferson,  Pres.  Thos., 
relics,  328;  offers 
lib.  to  govt.,  369; 
church,  406,  464; 
names  Anacostia  R., 
412;  Georgetown 
home,  465 ;  choice  of 
site  for  Capitol,  522 
Jenkins       coll.       Mary- 

landiana,  421 
Jensen,  L.,  126 
Jerusalem     altar,      Nat. 

Cath.,    458 
Jewelers,    33 
Jewish    synagogues,    34 
Joan     of     Arc,     statue, 

208 
John     Marshall     Place, 

136-137 
—  Paul     Jones     Mem., 

352-353 
Johnson2        Pres.        A., 
residence,     106,     194; 
church;    231 
— ,  Harriot        L.,        be- 
quest   for    Buchanan 
mem.,  208 
— ,  R.,     site     of     home, 

189 
— ,  R.      C,      art      coll., 

272,  276 
— ,  iReverdy,     lodgings, 
99 ;    schooldays,    464 
— ,  R.  L.,  murals,    107 
— ,  Thos.,        C  o  m  m  r,. 

xxvi,  465 
Johnston,        Harriet 
Lane,     bequest,     271 ; 
collection,    272,    276- 
278 
Jones.  Dr.  Wm., 

home,   133 
— ,  Gen.       W.,       grave, 

410 
— ,  John     Paul,     Mem., 

352 
— ,  T.  D.,  67 
—  Pt.    lighthouse,    489, 
S22 


Jordan        font,        Nat. 

Cath.,    460 
Jouvenal,    J.,     103 
Judiciary,  Dist.,  xxxviii 
—  sq.,    137 
Justice,      Dept.      bldg., 

220 
Joyce,     J.      A.,      home, 

365;   grave,   481 

K 


K    St.,    2Z7-2Z9 

Kalorama    (estate) , 

224 
Kann's       dept.       store, 

,.  I01 

Kaufman,  S.  H.,  home, 
228 

—  mem.,  Rock  Cr.,  437 
Kearney,     J.,      George- 
town  home,    467 

— ,  Gen.       P.,       statue, 

91;    grave,    509 
Keenan,       Geo.,       coll. 

Asiatic  weapons,   296 
Keith's    theatre,    25 
Kelley,     Gen.     B.     F., 

grave,  507 
Kelsey,  A.,  arch.,   163 

—  &   Cret,   archs.,    170 
Kendall,      Amos,      sch. 

for  deafA  367 
— |  Green,    366 
Kenilworth,     trolley 

route,    17 
Kenna,    J.     E.,    statue, 

91 
Kennon,     Com.,     B., 

burial      place,      408; 

death,    477 
Key,   F.  S.,  home,   133, 

463,        466;        "Star 

Spangled        Banner," 

329 1   verses   by,   471; 

founder    Christ's   ch., 

472 

—  Mem.   Bridge,   466 
"—of    Keys,"    352 
— ,  P.    B.,    death,     r8s, 

187,      188;     Rosedale 

home,    440 
Kilpatrick.    Gen.,  relics, 

325,    326 
King,  J.  A.,  home,   193 
— ■,  /.    C,    sculptor,    96 
— ,  W.,   statue,   91 
Kirkside      Golf      Club, 

443 
Kirkwood,  S.         J., 

statue,   95 

—  House,    106 


INDEX 


537 


Kitson,     Mrs.     T.     A. 

R.,    125 

— ,  $.,    sculp.,    508 

Kiwanis   Club,    31 

Kneessi,  ]]'.  D.,  arch., 
138 

Knickerbocker  Theatre, 
collapse,    235 

Knights  of  Columbus 
bldg.,    151 

Pythias,      order 

formed,    406 

Knox,  P.  C,  home,  238 

Konti,  I.,  sculp.,  165, 
166,   263 

Kosciuszko,  T.,  monu- 
ment,  185 

Kossuth,  guest  of  Con- 
gress,  100 


Labor,  A  m  e  r.  F  e  d., 
hdqrs.,   227 

—  Dept.,  lib.,  38;  for- 
mer offices,  215 

Laae  exhibit,  Nat.  Mus., 

337 

—  shops,   32 
Lafayette,    mem.,     185; 

relics,  328;  relics, 
Mt.  Vernon,  498,  499, 
501;  entertained,  Al- 
exandria,   516,    520 

—  hotel,  rates,  5;  res- 
taurant,  8 

—  sq.,    184-195 

Lake  Erie,  battle  (paint- 
ing),  74 

Lalor,  Alice,  M.  _S.. 
Convent  of  Visita- 
tion,   474;    tomb,    475 

Lamb,  J.  and  R.,  436 

Lamont,   D.,   home,    191 

— ,  D.    S.,   home,   214 

Land  Office  bldg.,  144; 
gen.,  213 

Landmark.  Nat.  Cath. 
close,  458 

Lane-Johnston,  Harriet, 
bequest  Cath.  Sch., 
459 

Langley,  S.  P.,  mem. 
tab.,  257;  relics,  327; 
appeal  for  Zool.  Pk\, 
444;  on  Rock  Creek 
Pk.    Com.,    454 

Lansing,     Robt.,    home, 

234 
Latrobe,    B.    H.,    arch., 
52,    66,    88,    89,    171, 
192^  196,   225,  407 


Laurel,     trolley     route, 

18,    416 
Law     Sch.,     Howard 

L'uiv.,  430 
,  Geo.    Washington 

Univ.,   214 
— ,  Thos.,     home,     350; 

real  estate,  405 
— ,  Win.,  364 
Lawrason,  Thos.,    home, 

520 
Lea,  Dr.  I.,  coll.  gems. 

311 
Leadbeaters'  drug  store, 

Alexandria,    520 
Lear,  T.,  sec.   to  Wash- 
ington,    214;      grave, 
409 ;      bequest      from 
Washington,   489 
Leather  goods  stores,  33 
Ledroit     Park,     trolley 

route,    16 
Lee      family,      summer 

home,  438 
— ,  Gen.  R.  E.,  statue, 
92;  residence,  507; 
offered  command  Va. 
forces,  515;  ahurch. 
Alexandria, 
515;  home,  Alexan- 
dria, 516 
— ,  Geo.  W.  Custis, 
sale  of  Arlington  to 
Govt.,    505 

—  House,  rates,  5;  res- 
taurant,  9 

— ,  Rear  Adm.,  home, 
194 

— ,  Rich.  B.,  grave,  409 

— ',  Thos.    Sims,   477 

Legations,    40-42 

Leiter,  L.  Z.,  monu- 
ment.   Rock   Cr.,   436 

L'Enfant,  P.  C.,  plan 
of  city,  xxvii-xxix; 
grave,  xxix,  50,  97, 
508;  plan  for  Nat. 
Cath.,  455:  office,  465 

—  sq.,   413 

Leonori,    A.,   arch.,   424 

— ,  P.,   bldr.,    424 

Leupp,  F.  E.,  home, 
207 

Leittse,   E.,    85 

Lewis  coll.  Washing- 
ton relics,  329,  330 

— ,  Eleanor  Parke, 
grave,  503 

— ,  Lawrence,  m  a  r  - 
riage,  494;  tomb,  502 

Liberty  Loan  poster 
coll.,  267 


Libraries,  37-40; 
Agric.  Dept.,  254; 
Army  Med.,  250; 
Cath.  U  n  i  v.,  420; 
Chem.  Lib.,  Cath. 
Univ.,  421;  Coast 
and  Geod.  Sur.,  405; 
Columbia  Hist.  Soc, 
141;  Columbus  Mem., 
107;  Congress,  37, 
369-403;  D.  A.  R., 
158;  Fisheries  Bur., 
247;  Geo.  Washington 
Univ.,  215 ;  Geo. 
Washington  Univ. 
Law  Lib.,  232; 
Grand  Lodge  (Ma- 
sons), 231;  Howard 
Univ.,  431;  Internat. 
Reform  Bur.,  411; 
Labor' Statistics,  216; 
Nat.  Mus.,  265; 
Navy  Dept.,  131 ; 
Pat.  Off.,  143;  Pea- 
body,  Georgetown, 
472;  Pension  Bur., 
140;  Public,  226; 
Riggs  M  e  m.,  469; 
Soldiers'  H.,  434; 
Standards  Bur.,  441; 
State  Dept.,  129; 
Sup.  Council,  33d 
D  e  g.,  206;  Volta 
Bur..  476;  War  Dept., 
351;  Weather  Bur., 
219. 

Library  of  Cong.,  res- 
taurant, 7 ;  regula- 
tions, 37;  hist,  and 
resources,  369-370; 
exterior  and  entrance, 
370-377;  murals,  377- 
398;  rotunda,  398- 
403 

Lighthouse  pur.,    216 

Lincoln,  Pres.,  assassi- 
nation, xxxiv,  145, 
193;  Signing  Eman. 
Proclamation  (paint- 
ing), 87;  statue,  138; 
Oldroyd  Mem.  Mus., 
145-147;  church,  231; 
mask,  324;  Hewett 
coll.  medals,  333; 
Mem.,  353  -  355; 
Emancipation  m  o  n., 
366;  summer  home, 
434;  at  Ft.  Stevens, 
439;  selects  Arling- 
ton for  nat.  cem.,  505 

— ,  R.  T.,  horns,  228 
—  sq.,  366 


538 


RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 


Lincoln's   Hill,   414 

Lind,   G.  E.,  arch.,  228 

Lingan,  j.  M.,  grave, 
507 

Linthicum.  E.  M.,  gift 
to  lib.,  472;  George- 
town   home,    478 

Lions   Club,    31 

Litchfield,  Grace  D., 
home,  229 

Little  Sanctuary,  Nat. 
Cath.    cliose,   458 

Livingston,  E.,  home, 
192 

— ,  R.   R-,  93 

Lloyd  mansion,  Alex- 
andria,   515 

Locks,  Wash,  canal,  486 

Lockwood,  Mrs.  M.  J., 
237 

Lodge,  H.  C,  home, 
229 

Lodgings,    s 

Logan  hotel,   5 

— ,  J.  A.  residence, 
150;  statue,  221; 
mausoleum,    435 

— :,  Vice-Pres.,  church, 
134;  mem.  tablet, 
135 

Long,  Breckinridge, 
home,   209 

—  bridge,   487 

— ,  J.  D..  home,  220 

Longfellow,  H.  W., 
statue,    223 

— ,  Rev.  S.,  pastorate, 
232 

Long's   Hotel,  site,  403 

Lord  Baltimore  Coun- 
try   Club,    415 

Lorin  windows,  St. 
John's   Ch.,   196 

Lorraine    restaurant,    8 

Lotos  Lantern,  tea 
room,   9 

Louise   Home,   228 

Loundes.  Francis,  Tu- 
dor place,  476 

Lovell.  Dr.  J.,  home, 
194;   grave,  410 

Lovers'  lane,  George- 
town,  478 

Lawdermilk's  Old  Book 
Store,    149 

Lucas,  F.  A'.,  taxid., 
310 

Luggage,    1 
■Luther,   M.,  statue,  221 

Lutheran    churches,    34 

— ■  Eye,  Ear  and  Throat 
Infirmary,    233 


— >  Mem.    Church,    221 
Luxemburg,    leg.,    41 
Lyceum    (theatre),    104 
Lyon    (fort),   488 

M 

M  St.,  Georgetown,  463 
McAdoo,  W.  G.,  home, 

228 
McBlair's   Row,   218 
MoCarty,     C  a  p  t.     D., 

church,    523 
— ,  J.    M.,    duel,    414 
McCeeney    family,    423 
McClellan,  Gen.   G.  B., 

hdq.rs.,     189,     217; 

statue,      224;      home, 

230;    relics,    326 
McCook,    Gen.,    hdqrs., 

438 
McCullagh,     H.,    tomb, 

437 
MacDougall,    Capt.    W. 

D-,    443 

McElfatrick,  J.  B.}  & 
Sons,    107 

McElroy,  J.,  home,  201 

McEwen,  W .,  murals, 
380 

Macfeely,  Gen.  R.,  237 
237 

Mackay,  W.  A.,  mu- 
rals, 383,  390 

Smith,      Rev.      A., 

home,    201 

McKenna,  Justice  J., 
home,  223 

McKeown  hotel,    100 

McKim,  C.  F.,  arch., 
35i 

— ,  Mead  &  W  h  i  t  e, 
archs.,    113,    208 

— ,  Rev.  R.  H.,  home, 
238 

McKinley,  Wm.,  assas- 
aination,  xxxvi ; 
church,  134;  mem. 
tablet,  135;  home, 
149;  cast  of  death 
mask,  326;  at  erec- 
tion Nat.  Cath.  Peace 
Cross,  457 

McLain,  Rev.  Wm., 
home,    134 

McLean,  John,  home, 
194 

McMahon      Hall,     418, 

420 
— ,  Rev.    Jas.,    418 


MacMon'nies,  F.,  sculp., 

224,  402;   Lib.  Cong. 

doors,    374 
McPherson,  Gen.  J.  B., 

statue,   220 
— ,  (fort),   509,   51 1 
— ■  sq.,    220 
MacVeagh,     F.,     home, 

208 
Made's   Hotel,    99 
Madison,     Dolly,      120, 

189;    at    Octagon 

House,      212;      temp. 

bur.  place,  410;  flight 

from    city,    479 
— >,  Pres.,     home,     148, 

217,  218,  237;  church, 

196,    406 
"Magdalen  Tower,"  203 
M  a  g  r  u  d  e  r,    W.    B., 

home,  218 
Mail.      See    Post-office 
Maine   mon.,    510 
Majestic     (theatre),  102 
Mall,    240-255 
Mallory,     Lt.-Col.      G., 

grave,    507 
Maloney,       Martin, 

Chem.    Lab.,    421 
Mammals,  Amer.,  habi- 
tat   groups,    303-305; 

Euro,      and     Asiatic, 

305-306;    African, 

306-307 
Manning,    D.,    home, 

234 
Mansfield,  Gen.,   hdqrs., 

216 
Manuscripts,  in  Lib.   of 

Cong.,    370 
Marcy,    W.    D.,    site    of 

home,    190 
— ,  W.    L.,    home,    193 
Marine    Band,    406-407 
—  Barracks,   406 
Marist    Coll.,    418,    422 
Market  space,   101 
— •  sq.,    Alexandria,    516 
Markets   Bur.,    252 
Marlboro,    Md.,    motor 

bus  line,   21 
Marquette,     Father, 

statue,   91 
"Marsh''     Market,     102 
Marshall     house,    Alex- 
andria,  521 
— ,  John,      statue,      56; 

home,    214 
— ',  T.   H.,  home,  490 
Marston,   home,    151 
Martha    Washington 

inn,  9 


INDEX 


539 


Martineau,    Harriet,   99 
Martinelli,  Mgr.,  home, 

362 
Martiny,  P.,  sculptures, 

376 
Maryland,     cedes     land 

for       capital,       xxvi; 

apprn.  for    bldg.,  xxix 

—  Agric.    Coll.,    416 

—  car    line,    18 
Marylandiana,     Jenkins 

coll.,  421;  Morgan 
coll.,    470 

Mason,  Gen.  A.  T., 
duel,   414 

— ,  Geo.,  home,  490; 
church,  523 

— ,  J.  M.,  lodgings,    133 

— ,  J.   Y.,    home,    194 

Masonic  order,  lib.,  39; 
old  hall,  136,  144: 
Scottish  Rite  temple, 
204-207;  temple,  231; 
Alexandria  lodge, 
517  -  519;  proposed 
Wash,  mem.,  522 

Massachusetts  a  v  e  .  , 
225-229;  extended, 
442-444 

Matildaville,    485 

Matthews,   Father  Wm.  J 

147 

— .Justice      S.,      home, 

234 
— ,  Mrs.  Stanley,  home, 

236 
Maury,    J.    W.,    home, 

133;    grave,    410 
Maynard,  G.    IV.,  Pom- 

paiian      panels,      390, 

392;   murals,  394 
Mead,  L.   G.,  93 
Mearn,     W.     A.,     home 

site,    224 
Hears,  H.  F.,  sculp.,  95 
Medals,     Hewett     coll., 

333;    Boggs   coll.,  333 
Medical     S  c  h  .  ,     Geo. 

Wash.   Univ.,  214 
,  Georgeto  w  n 

Univ.,    149^    468 

,  Naval  *Sch.,    215 

Meiggs,     Gen.     M.     C.,\ 

arch.,    138,    139,    144, 

4S3;   grave,    506 
— ,  Lt.     J.     R.,     grave, 

506 
Melchers,  Gari,  murals, 

396 
Mercer,     T.     F.,     home, 

218 


Mercie,  A.,  sculp.,  185 
"Meredith,  Owen,"  190 
Meridian      Hill      Park, 

208 
Meteorites,   coll.,   287 
Methodist         Epis. 

churches,   35 
Metropolitan    Club,    30, 

234 

—  hotel,    rates,    4;    res- 
taurant,   7;    loc.,    100 

—  M.   E.   ch.,    134 
Metzerott      hall      (thea- 
tre),   103 

Mexico,     embassy,     41; 
former   legation,   209, 

Meyer,      G.      von      L., 

home,   201 
Middleton  mansion,  422 
Miiburn,  Heister  &  Co., 

archs.,    107,  216,  227 
Miles,      Gen.      N.      A., 

tomb,   511 
Miller,    Joachim,    cabin, 

208,  454 
— ,  Justice  S.  F.,  home, 

228 
Millet,     F.     D.,     mem. 

fountain,    153 
Milliners,  32 
MilJner,    I.    B.,    ethnol. 

models,   290 
Mills  Bldg.,   215 
— _,  C.,  sculp.,   186,  218, 

329;   workshop,   415 
— ,  R.,    arch.,    122,    143, 

144,    343 
— ,  Theo.,    ethnol.    mod- 
els,    293,     294,     297, 

299,   300,   301 
Mindeleff,     C.,     ethnol. 

models',   293,   315 
— ,  V.,    ethnol.    models, 

293 
Miner  Hall,   431 
Minerals,     colls.,     Nat. 

Mus.,     286-288,     311- 

3i3 
Mines  Bur.,  offices,  213 
Mint,    Director   of,    124 
Missouri        Compromise 

Bill,  416 
Model   House,  site,   145 
Monastery,       Mt.       St. 

Sepulchre,  428 
Monitor    and    Mervimac 

(painting),  74 
Monroe,    Pres.,   church, 

196;   home,  215,  237; 

oath  of  office,  364 
—  St.,   car   line,    16 


"Monterey,"    477 
Montessori  Sch.,   475 
Montgomery       Country 

Club,    31 
Montrose  Park,  478 
Moore,   Tom,  on  city   in 

1804,   xxv 
Morgan,     J.     Pierpont, 

gift    to    Pohick    Ch., 

524 

—  Maryland  col.  lib., 
381,  470 

Morris,    Com.     G.     W.„ 
home,    199;    of    Cum- 
berland, 466 
— ,  Justice,     home,     228 
— ,  Robert,     real     estate 

venture,   350 
Morrison,    G.    S.,    225 
Morse,    S.    F.    B.,    tele- 
graph relics,   325 
Morton,    J.     S.,     home, 

220 
— ,  L.   P.,    home,   228 
— ,  O.    P.,   statue,    90 
— ,  Vice-Pres.,     church, 

196 
Mosby,      John,      relics, 

327 
Mossman,   M.    H.,    88 
Motor   bus    lines,    21-22 
Mt,   Alban,  455 
— •  Eagle,"    488 

—  Olivet  cemetery,  414 

—  Pleasant,  trolley 
routees,    13-15 

—  Ranier,  trolley  route, 
18 

— ■  St.  Sepulchre,  lib., 
39:  monastery,  423- 
429 

—  Vernon,  routes,  19, 
487-90;  history,  491- 
497;  grounds,  497; 
mansion,  498  -  502; 
tombs,    502 

" •Alcove,"    215 

&    Marshall     Hall 

Steamboat     Co.,     43; 

route  to  Mt.  Vernon, 

489-90 

«  Ladies   Assn.,   496 

-sq.,   226 

Muhlenberg,  J.  P.  G.,  93 
Mullett,     A.     B.,      107, 

123,    126 
Municipal     bldg.,     108- 

110 
Munitions     bldg.,     346, 

348 
Munsey  bldg.,    108 


540 


RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 


Murals,  Capitol,  61-62, 
65-66;  Lib.  Cong., 
377-398 

Murdock,  Wm.,  444 

Murphy  &  Olmsted, 
archs.,   421 

Murray,  Mabel,  Mem., 
460 

Murtagh,  W.  J.,  home, 
193 

Museums,  Army  Med., 
247-251;  Amer.  Red 
Cross,  155;  Cath. 
Univ.,  421;  Coleman, 
469;  D.  A.  R.,  159; 
Naval  Hygiene,  215; 
Navy  Yard,  407; 
Oldest  Inhab.  Assn., 
217;  Oldroyd  Lin- 
coln Mem.,  145-147; 
U.  S.  Nat.,  259;  Nat- 
ural Hist.  Bldg.,  260- 
322;  Arts  and  Indus. 
Bldg.,    322-339 

Music  colls.,  Lib. 
Cong.,  370 

Musical  instruments 
coll.,  332.  See  also 
Pianos 

Myer    (fort),    487,    505 

Myers-Mason,  family 
relics,  325 

N 

Napier,  Lord,  church, 
150 

National  Amer.  Suf- 
frage Assn.,  coll.,  331 

—  Bank  of   Wash.,   101 

—  Cath.  Sch.  for  Boys, 
459 

— ■  —  Sch.  for  Girls,  461 

—  Educ.   Assn.,  200 
-—Era,    office    site,    151 

—  Gall,   of  Art,  271-280 

—  Geog.    Soc,    199 

—  hotel,  rates,  4;  res- 
taurant,   7;    loc,  100 

—  Intelligencer  105, 
151,   190 

—  Meth.  Epis.  Ch, 
South,   227 

—  Metrop.  Bank,  148, 
230 

—  Mus.,  lib.,  39,  265; 
org.,  259;  Natural 
Hist.  Bldg.,  260-322; 
Arts  and  Indus; 
Bldg.,  322-339 

—  Press    Club,    30,   230 

—  Republican,    193 


— ■  Savings  and  Trust 
Co.,   230 

—  Sel.  Draft  Board, 
former   hdqrs.,    144 

—  Sylvan    theatre,     348 

—  theatre,    107 

—  Zool.  park,  441,  444- 

455 
Natural      Hist.      Mus., 

260-322 
Naval    exhibits,    World 

War  coll.,  270 

—  hosp.,   215 

— -Med.   sch.,  215 

—  man.,     97 

—  Mus.  of  Hygiene, 
215 

—  Observatory,  lib.,  39; 
former  site,  215;  de- 
scrip.,    442-443 

—  relics,   327 

— ■  Reserve,   hdqrs.,   410 
Navigation    Bur.,    216 
Navy    Dept.,    lib,.,    131; 

first  office,  218;  bldg., 

346-348 
See      also      State, 

War  and  Navy  Bldg. 

—  Yard,  trolley  routes, 
12,    13;    descrip.,   407 

Neale,     Father,     estab. 
Convent     of     Visita- 
tion, 474;    tomb,    475 
Nelson,    Atty.     Gen., 

home,    190 
— ,  J.,   home,    190 
Neptune    fountain,    372 
Netherlands,      legation, 
41;   former   leg.,    237 
Neville-Stent,      E.      J., 

arch.,  150 
Nevin,  B.,  93 
New  Capitol  hotel,  98 
theatre,    24,     104 

—  Central   H.    S.,    431 
t-i  Church,  founding  of, 

203 

—  Ebbitt  hotel,  rates, 
5 ;  restaurant,  8 ; 
hist.,   149 

— 1  England  restaurant, 
8 

—  Hamilton   hotel,    5 

—  Jersey  ave.,  car  line, 


-7e 


erusalem    ch.,    203- 
204 
— '  Mus.,    260-322 

—  National  hall,    108  • 
■  theatre,    24 

—  Varnum    hotel,     405 


—  Willard  hotel,  rates, 
3;  restaurant,  8; 
loc,  no 

—  Winston  hotel,  rates, 
4 ;    restaurant,    7 

—  York  ave.,  209-215 
Ave.     Pre-b.     ch., 

231;    parsonage,    237 
Newberry,   Rep.,    home, 

193 
Newcomb,        Simon, 

home,       234;       relics, 

327 
Newman,     Bp.     J.     P., 

mem.   tablet,    135 
"Newspaper  Row,"   149 
Newspapers,  44 
— ,  Alexandria,    520 
Newton,     I.,     1st    com. 

agric,   252 
Ney,     Elisabet,     sculp., 

90,  95 
Niehaus,   C.  H.,  91,  92, 

93,  201,  353,  382,  402 
Nicaragua,  legation,  41; 

former   leg.,   223 
Nicholson,    J.,    real    es- 
tate venture,   350 
Nineteenth  st.,  235 
Ninth  st.,  car  lines,   15 
Nitrogen     (Fixed)     Re- 
search Lab.,  252 
Noah's  Ark,  tea  room,  9 
Noble,     J.     W.,     home, 

237 
Norfolk   &   Washington 

Steamboat  Co.,  43 
North    Capitol    St.,    356- 

3$3 

Norway,  legation,  41 ; 
former  leg.,    228 

No'urse,  Jos.,  prayer 
for  church  on  Alban 
Hill,  455;  home, 
"Bellevue,"    479 

Noyes,   C.   S.,   bust,  109 

— ,  Theodore,  105 ; 
pres.  "Oldest  Inhabi- 
tants," 216;  interest 
in  Pub.  Lib.,  226 

Numismatic    colls.,    332 


Oak  Hill  cemetery,  479- 

83 
"Oaks  (The),"  477 
Observatories,        Astro- 
physical,   260;   Naval, 
442 
Observatory  circle,   442 
Occidental  hotel,  5,  in 


INDEX 


54i 


O'Connell,        James, 

home,  363 
O'Connor,   A.,    91 
— ,  W.    D.,    home,    150 
Odd    Fellows    hall,    151 
Oertel,  J.  A.,  87 
O'Hara,    Theo.,    verses, 

Octagon   house,  209-213 
"Old"  Nat.  Mus.,    lunch 

r  o  o  m,     9;     descrip., 

322-339 
Oldest       Inhabitants 

Assn.,  216 
Oldroyd    Lincoln    Mem. 

mus.,    145-147 
Olmstcad,  IV.  B.,  arch., 

349 
Olmsted,     F.     L.,     53, 

368,   444 
Omnibuses,     20-21 
Oluss   and   S  c  hu  I  z  e, 

ar'c|hs.,  ,248 
O'Neale,  Peggy,  career, 

217;   grave,  482 
O'Neale's      hotel,      site, 

217 
Oppenheimer,    M.,    141 
Opticians,   32 
"Organic     Act,"     xxxv 
Oriental    shops,    33 
Orphan    asylum,    233 
Outdoor  theatre,    348 
Oxford  hotel,   111 


Pacific  Bldg.,    141 
Packers  and  Stockyards 

Admin.,   252 
Page,     T.     N.,     homes, 

228,  235 
Painter,    U.    H.,    engr., 

187 
Paintings,     historic,     in 

Capitol,   63 
Paleontology       colls., 

Nat.  Mus.,  280-288 
Palmer,   E.   D.,   95 
Palo  Alto   House   (Bla- 

densburg),  415 
Panama,     legation,     41, 

208;       former       leg., 

224 
—  Canal    Bur.,    hdqrs., 

Pan-American  Union, 
lib.,  37;  bldg.,  162- 
171;    estab.,   236 

Papal  legation,  former 
site,   362 


Park,    Emily   H.,  mem., 
J5S 

—  Cpmm.,     plans,     346, 
354,    358 

Parke,      Gen.      J.      G., 

home,    193 
Parker,    P.,    home,    194 
Parks,      Capitol,      356; 
Lafayette     sq.,      184: 
Mall,  240-245 ; 

Meridian  Hill,  208; 
Potomac,  352;  Rock 
Creek,  454;  Smith-' 
soman  Inst.,  255; 
Washington,  341 ; 

Zoological,    441,    444- 

455 
Parrott,    R.,   home,   478 
Parsons,    James,    bldr., 

514 
Partridge,         W.         O., 

sculp.,    67,   437,    507 
Patent     Off.,     lib.,     38, 

143;      descrip.,      142- 

144;    hist,   note,   252 
Patriots,      Gallery      of, 

168 
Patton,     Rev.     W.    W., 

430 
Paul  Pry,    (paper),   364 
Paulding,  Adm.,  home, 

188 
— ,  J.     K.,    home,     187, 

217 
Pauncjef  ote,         Lord, 

church,   196 
Pay        Officers'        Sch., 

Naval,   215 
Payne,     Edw.,     church, 

523 
— ,  H.   C,  death,   190 
— .John    Howard,    413; 

grave,  480 
— .    plotter  against  Lin- 
coln,   hanged,   351 
— ,  Mrs.  J.   B.,  restores 

St.  John's  ch.,    196 
Peabody,  Geo.,  clerk  in 

store,     465;    lib.,    be- 
quest,   472 
— ■  Lib.,         Georgetown, 

40,   472 

—  &   Stearnes,     archs., 

475 
Peace       Cross,       Cath. 
close,  457,  458;  Rock 
Creek  cem.,    436 

—  Monument,   97 
Pearce,    C.    S.,    murals, 

377 
Peary.     R.     E.,     North 
Pole   coll.,    327 


Pell,    Rev.    A.     D.,    art 

coll.,    272,    279-280 
Pels,  P.   J.,   arch.,   203, 

369 
Penitentiary,     old     site, 

35o 
Penn.    ave.,    car    lines, 

10-11;    bus   lines,   20; 

descrip.,    96-1 11,    215- 

219 

—  R.    R.,    station,    358 
Pension   Bur.,   lib.,    140 

—  Off.,    139-140 
Periodicals,    44 
Persia,      legation,      41, 

202 

Perry,  H.,  bas-reliefs, 
390,  391;  fountain, 
403 

Pershing,  Gen.  J.,  of- 
fice, 131;  at  New 
Amphitheatre      d  e  d., 

Persico,   L.,    58,    59,   60 

Peru,    legation,    41 

Peter,  America,  mar- 
riage, 477 

— ,  Britannia,  m  a  r  - 
riage,    477 

— ,  David,    478 

— ,  Robert,  home,  239, 
462 

— ,  Thos.,  Tudor  place, 
476 

—  and  Paul  tea 
room,  9 

Peter's    Grove,    George- 
town, 478 
Petersen,   Wm„    145 
Petworth,      motor      bus 

routes,    21;   432 
Peyton,    Mrs.    Eliz.,    99 
Pharmacy,     Nat.     Coll., 

214 
Pharmacies,    32 
Philatelic    colls.,    332 
Philip,    W.    H.,    home, 

194 
Photographers,   33 
Photography,     hist,    ex- 
hibit,   337 
Pianos^      Worch      coll., 

310 
Pike,   C.   J.,  sculp.,   507 
Pierce,   Pres.,   lodgings, 
133;       church,       136, 

—  -Mill    Club,    31 

Pi  erpont,     F.    H., 

statue,   91 
Pierson,    Saml.,    513 


542 


RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 


Pike,    Gen.    A.,    statue, 

132;    mem.,   207 
Pillars,    C.    A.,    sculp., 

90,    95 
Pinckney,       Rev.       W., 

227;    grave,    480 
Piney    Branch     Bridge, 

209 
Pitney,       Justice       M , 

home,    229 
Plager,     W.     SV,    arch., 

151 
Plant     Indus.     Bur., 

252;     Quarantine 

Div1(    254 
Plassman,   sculp.,   103 
Piatt,    Chas.    A.,    arch., 

339 
Plymouth      Cong,      ch., 

234 
Pohick    Ch.,    523 
Pohlmann,  Rev.   H.  N., 

memorial,   221 
Poland,      legation,      41, 

208 
Police,         metropolitan, 

xxxvii 
Poli's  theatre,  rates,  24 
Polk,       Pres.,      church, 

Polo.  28;  Potomac  pk. 
field,   352 

Pomeroy,  Sen.,  home, 
190 

Pompeiian  panels,  Lib. 
Cong.,   390,  392 

Poor  Clares  (relig.  or- 
der), 474 

Poore,  B.  P.,  home, 
149 

Pope,  C.  A.,  So.  Amer. 
coll.,    317 

— ,  J.     R.,     arch.,     204 

Popiel,      A.,      sculptor, 

l85 
Papulation,    xvu 

Porters,    1 

Portland     hotel,     rates, 

5;        restaurant,       9; 

loc,   220 
Portugal,    legation,    42, 

441;       former       leg., 

199,"  223 
Post   card    shops,    33 
—  foaper),       44,       103, 

228 
— .  office,  city,  facilities, 

22;    early  bldg.,    144; 

new  bldg.,   357-358 
Dept.,   bldg.,    104; 

early    home,     142 


Postage     stamp      colls., 

332 
Potomac      hotel,      rates, 

4;  restaurant,  7;  loc, 

405 
— •  Park,    trolley    route, 

11,     12;     motor    bus, 

121;      descrip.,      352- 

35.3 

—  river,  boats,  43 ; 
Little  Falls,  483; 
Great   Falls,   484 

Potter,    E.     C,    sculp., 

402,    509 
Powell,    J.    W.,    grave, 

507 
—,W.   H.,    63,    74 
Power  plant,    405 
— ,     Rev.  F.   D.,   mem. 

tablet,   221 
Powers,    H.,    67,    241 ; 

"Greek    slave,''     174 
— ,,  T.    T.,    grave,    410 

—."■P.,   92 

Powhatan  hotel,  rates, 
5 ;  restaurant,  9 ; 
loc,  216 

— ■  Indians,    412 

Pratt,  B.  L.,  bas-re- 
liefs, 395;  sculp.,  402 

Presbyterian  churches, 
35;  Alexandria,  520; 
Georgetown,    464 

Prescott    House,     107 

President's  room,  Capi- 
tol,  78 

—  sq.,    114 
Presidents,     papers     in 

Lib.    Cong.,    370 
Press    Club,    Nat.,    230 
Preston,    W.    C,    home, 

189 
Printers'   alley,   Alexan- 
dria,  520 
— •  marks,     Lib.     Cong., 
388,    389,     39L.     392. 
See  also  Graphic  arts 
Printing  Off.,   Govt., 

361-362 
Prints,   Lib.   Cong.,   370 
Proctor,    A.    P.,    sculp., 

209,   229 
— ,  R.,    home,    199,    228 
"Progress     of     Civiliza- 
tion"        (Blashfield), 
400 
Prospect       Hill       cem., 

363 
Protestant       Epis. 

churches,    35 
Providence   hosp.,    411 


Public    Docs.,    lib.,    38 

—  Gardens,    244 

—  Health     Service,     of- 
fices,   404 

—  Lib.    of    D.    C,    37, 
226 

— ■  Roads   Bur.,    252 
Publications         D  i  v  .  , 

Agric.    Dept.,   252 
Pujol,   P.,    185 
Pulaski,   C,  statue,  108 
Pullman  home,  208 
Purchase    price,    xxvii 
Pushmataha,    Indian 

chief,    grave,    409 
Putnam,     H.,     lbn.     of 

Cong.,    370 
Pyne,     Rev.     S.,     mem. 

tablet,    198 
Pythias,       Knights, 

found.,  406 


Quarantine,    Plant,    254 
— 1  Sta.,   410 

R 

Racquet   Club,    30 
Railway      Econ.      Bur., 

lib.,    38 
Railroads,   gen.,    1.   See 

also     Union     Station, 

and    individual    roads 
Raleigh      hotel,      rates, 

3;        restaurant,        7; 

loc,   106 
Rammel    hotel,    Alexan- 
dria,  513 
Ramsey,    Col.    D.,    516 
— ,  Wm.,    home,    520 
Rand,    Lt.,   grave,    506 
Randall-Fox    duel,    414 
Randolph,       John,       of 

Roanoke,    duel,    414 
Rankin.    A.     E.,     mem. 

chapel,    430 
— ,  Kellogg     &     Crane, 

archs.,    253 
— ,  Rev.     J.     B.,     pres. 

Howard    Univ.,    430 
Rathbone,  H.  R.,  home, 

193 
Rausher's  restaurant,   3 
Rawlins,     Gen.     J.     A., 

statue,      102;      burial 

place,   408 
Real    Estate    Title    Ins. 

Co.,    140 


Reclamation  Service, 
offices,   213 

Red  Cross.  See  Ameri- 
can   Red    Cross 

Line,    43 

Reed,  Dr.  Walter,  440; 
grave,   512 

— ,  — ,  hos'p.,    440 

Reform  Sch.,  414 

Reformed  church,   36 

Rcid,  R.,   murals,    388 

Reno,    442 

— ,  Gen.  J.  L.,  grave, 
481 

Renwick,  J.,  arch.,  172, 
194,  196,  256,  480; 
tablet,    212 

Representatives,  Capi- 
tol, orig.  wing 
burned,  52;  rebuilt, 
53;  portiqo,  58;  in- 
terior,   83-88 

— ,  readiing  room,  Lib. 
Cong.,    382 

Reservoir,  city,  363; 
Georgetown,   477 

"Residence  Act,"  xxiv, 
xxix 

Restaurants,  6-9;  Lib. 
Cong.,  375;  Union 
Station,    360 

Rlivnd,    J.    M.,    1 01 

Rice,  H.  M.,  statue, 
91 ;    home,   362 

Richardson,   arch.,    199 

Richmond  hotel,  rate?, 
5;  restaurant,  9;  loc, 
234 

Riding  and  Hunt  Club, 

30 
Rictschel,    sculp.,    221 
Riggs    bldg.,    230 
— ,  E.    F.,    home,    228; 

mon..    Rock   Cr.,    437 

—  G.   W.,   home,   236 

—  Mem.    Lib.,    38,    469 
Rinchart,     W .    H.,     75, 

88 
Ripley,    Plioebe,    grave,  | 

475 
Ritchie,    T.,    home,    191 


Rittenhomse 

mansion, 

479 
Riversdale. 

route,    18, 
Rives,     W. 

trolley 

415 

C,     home, 

193 
Ro-bbins,    Z. 

C,    home, 

193 

Roberts,  H. 
Robisso,    J. 

92 

T.,    sculp., 

220 

INDEX 

Rochambeau    apts.,    222 

— ,  Mon.,    186 

Rock       Creek       bridge, 

route,      13;     descrip., 

229 

cem.,    436-438 

park,    454 

" —  of  Dumbarton," 

462 
Rockville,    route,    18 
Rodgers   Classic    Acad., 

464 
—  House,    site,    187 
— ,  R.,  59,   123 
Rohl-Smith,    C.,    sculp., 

125,    507 
Roman   Cath.   churches, 

36 
Roosevelt,     T.,     homes, 

i93,  234,  235; 

church,   231;   African 

coll.,         306  -  307; 

secures  Freer  coll.  to 

U.      S.,      339;      lays 

cornerstone        Amer. 

Univ.,    444 
Root,       Elihu,       homes, 

199,    201,    228,    234 
Rose,  U.  M.,  statue,  92 
Rosedale     estate,      440, 

45  5 
Ross,   J.    W.,   bust,    109 
Rotary    Club,    31 
Rotunda,    Capitol,    por- 
tico,      58;       interior. 

60-66 
— ,  Lib.    Cong.^    398-403 
— ,  New       Nat.       Mus., 

262,   270 
Rough      Riders      mon., 

510 

Royall,    Anne,    "mother 

of  yellow  journal- 
ism,"  364 

Rucker,  Gen.  T.  B., 
home,   2^7 

Ruckstull,  F.  W., 
sculp.,    93,   403 

Rumania,     legation,     42 

Rush.  Dr.  B.,  monu- 
ment, 215 

Russia.  embassy,  42, 
199;  former  embassy, 
237,  239 


Sailors'      Home,     Tem- 
porary,   132 

St.     Alban's    Free    Ch. 
(P.    E.),    455,    458 


543 

—  Aloysius  Church, 
362 

—  Ann's  Infant  Asy- 
lum, 218 

—  Anthony  of  Padua 
Chapel,  Franciscan 
mon.,   426 

—  Asaph  race  track, 
488 

—  Augustine's  R.  C. 
Ch.     (colored),    231 

—  Austin's    Coll.,    418 
— '  Cloud      hotel,      site, 

145 
— 1  Elizabeth's        Hosp., 

413,    489 
— >  Francis      of      Assisi 

Chapel,        Franciscan 

mon.,   425 
— Gandens,   A.,    sculp., 

67,      402 ;      mem.      to 

Mrs.   H.   Adams,   437 
,  Louis,         statues, 

359 
— '  James     hotel,     rates, 

4;        restaurant,       7, 

loc,    100 

—  John's  P.  E.  Ch., 
185,  195-199;  George- 
town,    470 

,  Sch.,    site,    455 

—  Jose  p  h  Chapel, 
Franciscan  mon,, 
424-425 

—  Joseph's   Ch.,   365 

—  Mary's  R.  C.  Ch. 
(German),    141 

—  Matthew's  R.  C. 
Ch.,    234 

—  Patrick's  R.  C.  Ch., 
old  site,  145;  bldg., 
147-148 

— ■  Paul's  Ch.,  Rock 
Creek,    436 

—  Paul  the  Apostle, 
Coll.,  422 

—  Peter  and  St.  Paul 
Cath.,  455-458 

—  Peter's  R.  C.  Ch., 
411 

—  Stephen's  R.  C.  Ch., 
218 

— -Thomas  Coll.,  418, 
422 

—  Thomas  P.  E.  Ch., 
234 

—  Vincent's  Female 
Orphan    Asylum,    147 

Salon   des  Nations,    11 1 
Salvador,    legation,    42, 
441 


544 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


J.     J-, 

Augus- 


Sampson,   Adm.,   grave, 

512 
Sandford's    hotel,    in 
Sartiges,       Camte      de, 

home,    479 
Satterlee,    Bp.    H.    Y., 

residence,      228;      1st 

bp.  of  Wash.,  457 
Saxton,      Gen.      Rufus, 

home,    207 
Sayre,       Rev. 

tablet,   471 
Schermerhorn 

tus,     gift     to     Pohick 

Ch.,    524 
Schladermundt,    H.    T., 

mosaics,      377',      fres- 
coes,  400 
Schley,      Adm.,      home, 

237;   relics,    325,    326 
Schoolcraft,       H.        C, 

home,   133 
— ,  H.    R.,    home,    148 
S  c  h  r  o  e  n  ,  Father, 

murals,  469 
Scientific  lit.,    Internal 

cat.,  260 
Scott     bldg 

H,  434 

—  circle,   200 
— ,  Gen.       W., 

200;        home, 
Mon.,   435 
— ,  Virginia,     grave, 

475 
— ,  W.    L.,    home,    193 
Scottish     Rite     Temple, 

lib.,     19;    bldg.,    204- 

207 
Scrymser,    Capt.   J.    A., 

1 54 
Seaton     park,     E.     and 
W.,  244 

—  Pub.    Scih.,    362 
Selden,    M.    C.,    home, 

132 
Selfndge,   Adm.,  home. 

237  „ 

— ,  Lt.     T.     E.,     grave, 

509  _ 

Semmes,        Adm.        R., 

prisoner,    406 
Senate,     Capitol,     orig. 
wing  burned,    52;   re- 
built,      53;       portico, 
57;     interior,     69-83 
— ,  Office    Bldg.,    365 
— ,  reading    room.    Lib. 

Cong.,   383 
Sepulchre.    Holy,   Fran- 
ciscan   Mon.,    425 
Sequoyah,    96 


Soldiers' 


statue, 
216; 


Serbs,      Croats     and 

Slovenes,        legation, 

42,  224 
Sestini,    Rev.    B.,    362 
"Seven      bldgs,"      215, 

217 
Seventeenth     St.,      153- 

184,   234 
Seward   PI.,    211 
— :,  W.     H.,     residence, 

187;   attack   on,    187; 

church,   196 
Sewell,         Molly         E., 

home,    234 
Shepard,     C.     U.,     coll. 

minerals,   312 
Shepherd,     A.     R.,     2d 

gov.     D.     C,     xxxiv; 

removal    of    B.    &    O. 

yards,  98;  office,   106; 

statue,     no;     homes, 

149,    239,   458;    birth- 
place,     349;      mauso- 
leum,  437 
Sheridan    circle,    229 
— ,  Gen.,     statue,     229; 

grave,    508 
— ,  — ,  home   of    widow, 

229 
Sherman,    Gen.   W.   T., 

mon.,    125;    marriage, 

194;       homes,       231, 

362;    relics,   325 
— ,  J.    S.,    home,    201 
— ,  John,    church,    150; 

home,    238 
—  Plaza,    125 
— ,  Roger,    statue,    93 
Shields",  Gen.         J., 

statue,    91 
Shipley,    Rutan    & 

Cooledge,  archs.,  489 
Shipping     Bd.,     U.     S., 

offices,   347 
Shiras,        Justice        G., 

home,  228 
Shirlaw,    W.,    frescoes, 

387 
Shoe    stores,    31 
Shops,    31-33 
Shoreham    hotel,    rates, 

3;  restaurant,  8;  loc, 

230 
Shoup,     G.     L.,    statue, 

93 

Shrody,  H.  M.,  sculp., 
242 

Shubert-Belasco  thea- 
tre, 25 

Garnck    theatre,    24 

Shubrick,  Adm.  W.  B., 
home,   192 


Shuter    hill,     522 

Siam,    legation,    42^- 

Sibley   hosp.,    362 

Sickles,  Gen.,  kills  P. 
B.  Key,  185,  187; 
home,   193 

Sight-seeing  cars,    21 

Silversmiths,    33 

Simmons,  B.  S.,  arch., 
230,   235 

— ,  E.t    murals,    378 

— ,  F.,  sculp.,  63,  91, 
97,   222 

Sinding,   S.,    126 

Singleton,  W.  R., 
grave,    482 

"Six   bldgs.,"    215,    218 

Sixteenth    St.,    195-209 

Slidell,   J.,   home,    191 

Small-pox   hosp.,    410 

Smith,  Gen.  E.  K., 
statue,   90 

— ,  Hoke,    home,    238 

— ,  John  Cotton,  oh 
city  in    1800,   xxx 

— ,  S.  H.,  home  site, 
230 

Smithmayer  &  Pels, 
archs.,   468 

Smithmeyer,  J.  J., 
arch.,    369 

Smithson,  James,  hist., 
255;  mort.  chapel  and 
relics,    257 

Smithsonian  Inst.,  lib., 
40 ;  grounds,  247 ; 
hist.,  255-256;  old 
bldg.,  256-260;  Nat- 
ural Hist,  bldg.,  260- 
322;  Arts  and  Indus, 
bldg.,  322-339;  Freer 
Gallery  of  Art,  339 : 
int.  in  estab.  Zool. 
Pk.,   446 

Soccer    football,    28 

Sodini,  D.,   92 

Soils  Bur.,   252 

Soldiers'  Home,  routes, 
16;  lib.,  40;  descrip., 
363,    432-435 

,  Temporary,     132 

Sousa,  J.  P.,  birth- 
place,   407 

Southard,   S.   L.,  home, 

193 

Southern    bldg.,    230 
—  Ry.    bldg.,    107 
Southworth,         Mrs., 

home,      466;      grave, 

481 
Spain,       embassy,       42; 

former  leg.,   228,  229 


INDEX 


545 


Spanish-Amer.         War, 

infl.    on    city,    xxxvi; 

relics,      327;      Peace 

Cross       mem.,       457; 

mon.,    510 
• — ■  — ■  Veterans'      Assn., 

org.,    147 
Speedway,   352 
Spencer,  Col.  Nicholas, 

491 
Spofford,    A.    R.,  home, 

228;     lbn.    of    Cong., 

370 
Sporting   goods.   33 
Sports,    26-29 
Sprague,     Wm.,    home. 

140 
Stade   lib.,   Biblical  lit., 

421 
Stafford      coll.      Shake- 
speare, 421 
Standards      Bur.,      lib., 

39;    offices,    441 
Stanislaus,       Sister, 

grave,    475 
S  t  a  n  1  e  y-Brown,      J., 

home,   228 

—  coll.  Indian  paint- 
ings,  271 

—  Hall,     Soldiers'     H., 

435 

Inge    duel     414 

Stanton,    E.    M.,    home, 

i35>  238;  at  death  of 

Limooln,  145;  church, 

150;   grave,  481 
— •  hosp.,    362 

—  sq.,    366 
Star   bldg.,    105 

—  (paper),   44 
Stark,    J.,    statue,    90 
State     Dept.      lib.,     37, 

129;  early  bldgs., 
122,  216,  233;  pres- 
ent bldg.,  126-13 1 ; 
Annex,   194 

- — ,  Sec.   of,   offices,    128 

— ,  War  and  Navy 
Bldg.,    126-131 

States   Rels.   Serv.,  252 

Stationers,    33 

Stations,  railroad,  1, 
358-360.  See  also 
Docks 

Statuary  Hall,  Capitol, 
88-96 

Steamboat  Insp.  Bur., 
216 

Steamship   lines,    43 

Steele,  Gen.  F.,  home, 
193,    466 

Stelle's   Hotels,   405 


Stephens,  A.  H.,  lodg- 
ings,   100 

Stephenson,  B.  F., 
mon.,    1 01 

Sterling  hotel,  rates, 
4;    restaurant,    8 

Stevens.  Gen.  I.  I.,  439 

—  (fort),    438 

— ,  Thaddeus,  aid  to 
Prov.  Hosp.,  411 

Stier,  H.  J.,  arch.,  416 

Stockton,  R.,  statue, 
91;   home,    191 

Stockton-Sickles    house, 

193 

Stoddard,  C.  W.,  home, 

362 
Sioddert,    B.,    Rosedale 

home,    440 
Stone,    H.,    63 
Stoneleigh     Ct.      (apt.), 

222 
Stores,    31-33 
Story.  W.   W.,  56 
Strathmore    Arms,    237 
Streets,        arrangement, 

xvii-xx;      Alexandria, 

513 

Strother's      hotel,      no 

Struthers,  John,  gift  of 
Washington  sarcop- 
hagi,   503 

Stuart,  David,  first 
commr.,    xxvi,    465 

Suffrage,  Nat.  Amer. 
A=sn.,    coll.,    331 

Suites,    6 

Sumner,  Chas.,  home, 
190 

Sun  Chia-Ku,  resi- 
dence,   100 

Sunderland,  Rev. 
Byron,  home,  134; 
bust,  136;  pres. 
Howard    Univ.,    430 

Sunset   inn,    restaurant, 

9 
Supt,    Pub.    Docs.,    362 
Supreme     Court,     Capi- 
tol,       66-68;        home 
1814,    411 
Surface  car  lines,  10-20 
Surgeon    General,    lib., 
37;    dir.    Army    Med. 
Mus.,       248;       office, 
404 
Surratt,     Mrs.,     execu- 
tion,  351;  grave,  414 
Suter's      Tavern,      site, 
465 


Sutter,      Gen.      J.      A., 

death,  99 
Swain,    Justice    N.    H., 

home,    237 
Sweden,     legation,     42; 

former  leg.,   228,  234 
Swedenborgian    church, 

36 
Swimming,    28 
Switzerland,       legation, 

42 
Swords,      Gen.      Thos., 

relics,    327 
Sylvan      theatre,      Nat., 

348 


Taft,       Pres.,       church, 

233;    home,   238 
Tailors,     ladies',     32 
Takoma     Park,     routes, 

12,    16;    descrip.,   440 
Talburtt,  G.   W.,  home, 

412 
T  a  1  m  a  g  e  ,     Rev.     T. 

DeW.,    136 
Taney,     Chief     Justice, 

home,    132,    151,   187 
Tariff     Com.,      U.      S., 

hdqrs.,  144 
Taxicabs,  20 
Tayloe,      B.      O.,      city 

home,        199;        pres. 

"Oldest  Inhabitants," 

216 
— ,  Col.       J.,       Octagon 

House,  209 
Taylor,    Pres.,     church, 

196;        temp,        bur. 

place,  410 
Tea   rooms,    6-9 
Technology         exhibits, 

Nat.  Mus.,  333-338 
Telegraph,      first     mes- 
sage,  82,    133 
— ■  offi-qes,  23 
— ,  site    of    first    office, 

143 
Temple    of   Fame,    Ar- 
lington   cem.,    508 
Tenallytown.    See    Ten- 

leytown. 
Tenleytown,    trolley 

route,      18;     descrip., 

442 
"T  e  n^m  i  1  e     Square," 

xvi  i 
Tennis,    29 
Textile     exhibits,     Nat. 

Mus.,    334-335 


54^ 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


Thacher,   J.   B.,  incuna- 
bula,  370 
Thayer,  A.  H.,  coll.  in 

Freer    gall.,    340 
Theatres,     24-26.       See 
also    individual    thea- 
tres 
Theological         S  e  m  .  , 

Epis.,  488,  513 
Thomas       circle,       220, 

228,  233 
— ,  Gen,    G.   H.,   statue, 

228,    233 
Thompson,      J.,     home, 

214 
— ,  L.,   sciilp.,   224,   435 
— ,  M.,    murals,    379 
— ,     S.,    home,    193 
— ,  W.   P.,  lodgings,  99 
Thornton,         Sir         E., 

church,  150 
— ,  Wm.,  arch.  Capitol, 
51,  88;  saves  Patent 
Off.,  142;  homes, 
148,  465;  arch.  Octa- 
gon House,  209 ; 
grave,  409;  arch. 
Tudor  PI.,  477 
Threlkeld        family, 

Georgetown,    474 
"Tiber"    river,    xxv 
Times    (paper),   44 
Tingey,      Com.,     grave, 

409 
Tintern    tea    room,    9 
Tobacconists,    32 
Toll-gate    House,    439 
Tombs,   Washington, 

502 
Tomlinson's  Hotel,    364 
Toombs,    R.,    residence, 

I5I 
Topography,    xvii 

Totem    poles,    288 

Totten,     G.     O.,     arch., 

220 
Towncend.   Amy,   524 
Tracey,     B.     F.,    tragic 

death    of    wife,    236 
Tracy      &     Sivartwout, 

archs.,    245 
— ,  Uriah,  cenotaph, 

408 
Tramways.     10-20 
Trap    shooting,    29 
Treasury    Dept.,    bldg., 

122-126;    annex,    187; 

Bur.    Engr.   &    Prtg., 

349 

Treaty       of      Washing- 
ton,   237 


Trees,  historic,  the 
Mall,  241,  244:  Jap. 
cherry,  352;  Sharp- 
shooter's tree,  440; 
Mt.  Vernon,  503 
Trentanove,    G.,    sculp., 

91,  132,  201,  507 
Triebel,   F.  E.,  91,   93 
Trinity  Coll.,   418 
Trinity  M.  E.  Ch.,  411 

—  P.  E.  ch.,  132;  first 
site,    141 

—  R.  C.  ch.,  George- 
town,  467 

Trolley     lines,     10-20 
Trowbridge    &    Living- 
ston,   arch.     154 
Trowel,     used     to      lay 
Capitol      cornerstone, 

519 
Trumbull,    Col.    J.,    62, 

63 

— ,  Jonathan,   93 
Trunk   stores,    33 
Trust    companies,    42 
Truxton,       Commodore, 

home,    214 
Tryon,  D.    W.,   coll.   in 

Freer   Gall..    340 
Tucker,   Enoch,   412 
Tudor     place,     George- 
town,  476 
Tunmcliff,    Wm.,    410 
Tunnicliff's  tavern,  410 
Turner,    C.    Y.,    106 
Twining,    W.   J.,    413 

—  City,    413 

Tyler,  Pres.  J.,  oath 
of  office,  100;  church, 
196;    home,   244 

Tyng,   Rev.   S.  H.,   471 

u 

Umbrella   shops,    33 
"Uncle    Tom's"    Cabin," 
first  publ.    office,    151 
Union     hotel,      George- 
town,   464 
— 'Station,     1,    358-360; 

tunnel,    405 
— ?  — ,  Georgetown,    466 
— ■  Trust   Co.,   230 
Unitarian  Ch.,   36;  first 

site,    137 
United    cafeteria,    9 
— ■  States.     For  Govern- 
in  e  n't      departments 
and  bureaus,  see  spe- 
cific names 
Br.    Bank,    148 


Universalist    Ch.,    36 
University      Club,      30, 

220 
— p  Women,         A  m  e  r  . 

Assn.,    191 
Unknown   Dead,   monu- 
ment,  508 
— 'Soldier,    grave,    511 
Uphues,  T.,  sculp.,  352 
Upjohn,  R.,  tablet,  212 
Upshur,     A.     P.,     bur. 

place,    408 
Uruguay,    legation,    42; 

former   leg.,   234 
Usher,      Leila,      sculp., 
507 


Vale,    A.,  home,    191 

Valentine,    E.     V.,    92 

Valperti,   89 

Van  Buren,  Pres.  M., 
lodgings,  99;  home, 
192, 217;    church,  196 

Vancie,    Z.     B.,    statue, 

93 

Vanderlyn,  J.,   63 

Van  Deventer,  Justice 
W.,    homes,    207,    208 

Van   Hook,    res.,  412 

Van  Ingen,  W.  B., 
murals,   387,   397,  399 

Van  Ness,  J.  P.,  res., 
107,  171;  old  mauso- 
leum, 149 

— ,  Marcia  B.,  m  a  r  - 
riage,  1 07 ;  burial 
place,  437;  mauso- 
leum, 482 

" — Park,"    162 

Vaults,  Treasury  Bldg., 
124 

Vaughan,  Henry,  arch., 
457 

— ,  Sir  Chas.,  home, 
192 

Vedder,  E.,  murals, 
385;  mosaic,  399 

Vendome   Hotel,   99 

Venezuela,  leg.,  42, 
228;  former  leg.,  199 

Vermont    ave.,    219-222 


Christian 

Ch.  , 

221 

Veterans'    Bur., 

190 

Veterinary    Med. 

,    coll. 

of,    214 

Vice-President's 

room, 

Capitol,   78 

Virginia,      cedes 

land 

for      capital, 

xxvi; 

INDEX 


547 


retrocession,        xxxii; 
Constitution,    490 
—  Theol.      Sem.,      488, 

5i3 
Visitation,    Convent    of, 

473-475 
Vocational    Educ,    Fed. 

Bd.,  190 
Volk    L.  W.,  sculp.,  91, 

324 

Volta  Bureau,  lib.,  39; 
work,    475-476 

Volunteer  Engine  H., 
216 

Von  Herbulis,  A., 
arch.,    422 

Yon  Steuben,  monu- 
ment,   186 


classical 

Com.     A. 

237 
Jr.,     home, 


M.    R., 

home. 

murals. 


w 

Wacli9muth 

lib.,  215 
Wads  worth, 

S.,   home, 
— ,  J.    W., 

191 

Waite,  Justice 
church,  150 
235 

Walker,  H.  O., 
379 

— ,  N.   V.,  95 

— ,  R.  J.,  home,  217 

Wallace,  H.  C.,  resi- 
dence, 441 

— ,  Gen.  L.,  defense  of 
city,     xxxiii;     statue, 

9i 

Wallach,  R.,  homes, 
214,  362 

Wall  is   restaurant,   8 

Wall's  Opera  House, 
102 

Walsh.  T.  F.,  resi- 
dence,   229 

Walter  Reed  hosp., 
440 

—,  Thomas  U .,  53.  122, 
143,  144;  home,  141; 
tablet,    212 

V 'alters,     Rev.     T.     A., 

147 
Wanamaker,    J.,    home. 

236 
War  Dept.,  sword  coll., 

331.     See  also   State, 

War  and  Navy  Bldg. 

—  exhibit,  266-271,  3219. 
33i.   333 

—  of  1812,  attack  on 
city,    xxx-xxxii,    364, 


365,    369.    413:    Brit. 

h  d  q  r  s.,     403,     406; 

cannon,    466;    distnb. 

of   materiel,    479 
— ■  Risk  Ins.   Bur.,    190 
— ,  Sec.    of,   offices,    129 
Warburton    manor,    490 
Ward,     Herbert,     Afri- 
can   coll.,    301-303 
— ,  /.    Q.    A.,    sculp., 

228,  240,  402 
Wardman     Park    hotel, 

rates.  4:    loc,   441 
Warner,    O.    L.,    sculp., 

374.    37^ 

Warren,  H.  L.,  arch., 
203 

— ,  W.,    arch.,   208 

"Warwick,"   411 

Washington  &  Old  Do- 
minion Ry.,  19;  sta- 
tion, Georgetown, 
466 

— .  Apotheosis  (fresco), 

65 

—  Arsenal,   350 

—  Asylum,    410 

— .  Augustine,  b  i  r  t  fa- 
place,   491 

— .Bait.  &  Annap. 
Elec.   RR.,    19 

— Barracks,   350-352 

—  Board  of  Trade,  106 

—  Botanical    Soc,    188 
— ,  Bush  red.       at       Mt. 

Vernon,     495;     tomb, 
502 

—  C  anal,    102.    486 

— •  Chamber  of  Com., 
106 

—  circle,    21S,    239 

— ■  City  Orphan  Asy- 
lum,  231 

—  Club,  early  home, 
187 

— -  Col.      Beach      S'boat 

Co.,    43 
— ,  Col.   Geo.   C,   home, 

479 

—  Evening    Star,     105 
— ■  (fort),    490 

— .  G..  choice  of  site 
for  capital,  xxv; 
statue.  92;  Stuart 
(  ?)port.,  120:  sword, 
129 ;  equestrian 
statue,  218;  proposed 
mem.,  245;  Green- 
o  u  g  h  statue,  259; 
relics,  328,  332; 
Lewi«  coll.  relics, 
329:    Masonic   trowel, 


343;  houses  on  No. 
Capitol  st.,  356;  be- 
quest for  nat.  univ., 
444;  church,  464; 
Georgetown  hdqrs., 
465;  bequest  to  Mrs. 
Peter,  477;  canal 
around  Gt.  Falls,  485; 
childhood,  491;  title 
to  Mt.  Vernon,  493; 
marriage,  493;  presi- 
dency, 494;  death, 
495;  will,  495;  Mt. 
Vernon,  495-504;  int. 
in  Alexandria,  513, 
514;  church,  Alexan- 
dria, 515;  office  site, 
Alexandria, 
516;  quarrel  with 
Payne,  517;  relics  in 
Masonic  Lodge,  517- 
519;  proposed  Mas. 
Nat.  Mem.,  522;  int. 
in    Pohick    Ch.,     523 

—  Herald,    106 

— -hotel,  rates,  3;  res- 
taurant, 8;  loc,  in, 
149 

—  inn,    356 

— ,  J.     A.,     last     owner 

Mt.    Vernon,    496 
- — ,  1st,    tomb,    502 
— .  2nd,   grave,  503 
— ,  John      "the      Emi- 
grant," 491 
— ,  L.,    birthplace,    491; 
title    to    Mt.    Vernon, 
492;   death,   492 

—  Loan  &  Tr.  Co. 
bldg.,    145 

—  Market,    101 

— ■  Monument,      342-346 
" —  Parish         Bur. 
Ground,''     408 

—  Ry.  &  Elec.  Co.,  13- 
18 

—  Soc.    of    Engrs.,    189 
— 'theatre,    104,    137 

— .-Virginia  Ry.,  19; 
station,  107;  route  to 
Mt.    Vernon,    487-489 

— ,  W.  A.,  residence, 
224 

Washington's   Mill,   485 

Water  transp.,  hist,  ex- 
hibit, Nat.  Mus.,  336- 

337 
Watmough,     Pay. -Gen., 

home,    236 
Weather     Bureau,     lib., 

39;      office,      218-219, 

-252 


548 


RIDER'S    WASHINGTON 


Weber     coll.     Sanskrit, 

370 
Webster,      D.,      statue, 

96;  lodgings,  99,  100; 

church,     132;    homes, 

I37,    191;    monument, 

201 
Weddings,      White 

House,  119 
Weeks,    J.     W.,    home, 

207 
Weems,    Parson,    523 
Weinert,  A.,  sculp.,  372 
Weinman  n,    A.    A., 

sculp.,    205,    253 
Weir,  R.   W.,  63 
Welles,    Gideon,    home, 

191 
Wellington    house,    489 
Wendell,   Cornelius,  361 
Wesley   M.    E.    Chapel, 

134,    140 
Western  H.   S.,  470 
Westward      Course      of 

Empire  (painting),  85 
Wetmore,    Sen.,    home, 

238 
Wharves,        (trolley 

routes,    15,    16 
"Wheat    Row,"    350 
Whistler,    J.    M.,    coll. 

in  Freer  Gall.,   341 
White,     Henry,     home, 

208 
— House,    burned    and 

rebuilt,    xxxii;     hist., 

in  -  114;        grounds, 

114  -  115;        interior, 

1 1 5-122;    "Temporary 

White  House,"   193 

Whitman,  R.  E.,  grave, 

507 
Whitney,  Anne,   sculp., 

95 
— ,  G.   V.,  sculp.,   167 
— ,  W.   C,  home,   236 
Wiese's     tavern,     Alex- 
andria,   519 

Wilkes,  Com.  Chas., 
explorer,  144;  home, 
189;  Exploring  ex- 
ped.,    241;    coll.,    301 

Wilkins,  Beriah,  home, 
228" 

Wilkinson,  Gen.  J., 
residence,  218 

Willard,  Frances  E., 
statue,   95 


Williams,     Harriet, 
schooldays,  464;    mar- 
riage,   478 
— ,  R.,   statue,    91 
— ,  W.   G.,   death,    477 
Wilson,     Henry,     lodg- 
ings, 99 
— ,  Jas.,      homes,      220, 

223 

— ■,  John  M.,  home,  237 

— ,  Pres.,        inscriptions 

on    P.    O.,    357;    new 

amphitheatre    at,    511 

Winder  bldg.,   153 

— ,  Gen.  W.  H.,  defense 

of    city,    1812,    xxxi; 

rout  of   troops,  415 
Windom,      W.,      home, 

189,  228;   tomb,  437 
Winthrop,      J.,      statue, 

90 
Winthrop,    R.   C,  lodg- 
ings,    133;    addresses 

at   Wash,    mon.,    344 
Wirt,  Wm.,  home,  214; 

birthplace,    415; 

schooldays,   464 
Wirtz,     Capt.     H.,     im- 

prisonment, 

365;   grave,   414 
Wise,   H.    A.,   lodgings, 

99;    home,   214 
Wisedell,    Thomas,    55 
Wisteria  tea  room,  9 
Withers,    F.    C,    arch., 

368 
Witherspoon,   J.,  statue, 

223 
Wolcott,   Sec.,  xxx 
Woman's      party,      nat. 

hdqrs.,    364 

—  suffrage  coll.,    331 
Women's     Christian 

Tern.    Union,    hdqrs., 
141 

—  City    Club,    30,    193 

—  clubs.  See  indivi- 
dual clubs. 

—  outfitters,  33 

Wood,  Donn  &  Dent- 
ing,  archs.,   230,   231 

— ,  George,   res.,   102 

Woodbury,  Levi,  home, 
193 

Woodley   Park,   440 

Woods,     Elliott,     arch., 

138,   365,  404 
— .Justice    W.    B., 

home,   220 


Woodward  &  Lothrop, 
first  site,  10 1;  store, 
148 

—  bldg.,    230 

Woodward's  Centre 
tavern,    100 

Worch,  A.,  piano  coll., 
310 

Worden,  Adm.,  home, 
238 

World  War  hist,  coll., 
266-271,  329,  331,  333 

Worthington, 
Dr.  Chas.,  George- 
town, 462,  467 

Wren,  James,  arch.,  514 

Wright,  B.,  engr.,  C.  & 
O.   canal,  465 

— ,  Gen.,    at    battle    Ft. 

Stevens,    439;    grave, 

508 
Wyeth,     N.     C,    arch., 

209,    218,    466 


Ximenes,      E.,      sculp., 
208 


Yachting,   29 
Ye  Coffee  Shoppe,  9 
Yeaton,   Wm.,    516 
Young,  arch.,    123 
— ,  Notley,    early    prop- 
erty  holder,   xxvii 
— -Men's        Christian 
Assn.,  214 

Yturbide,    Miss,    tomb, 

475 
Yudin  lib.   Russian  lit., 

370 


Zodiac      signs,      Lib. 
Cong.,   375 

Zolnay,    G.    J.,    sculp., 

431,   511 
Zoological  exhibits,  Nat. 

Mus.,  303-310,   321 
Zoological      park,      260, 

441,    444-455 


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12  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 


OLD  CHOICE  and  RARE  BOOKS 

Engravings  and  Autographs 
75,000  volumes  of  selected  stock 

Visitors  welcome.     Correspondence  invited 

LOWDERMILK  &  CO. 

1418  F  Street  near  New  Willard  Hotel    : :  WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 


t^^m^^^-^^^— 


AN  INTERESTING  VISIT  AWAITS  YOU 

Established    1861 

Washington,  D.  C.  iith  and  F  Streets 

Furniture  Carpets  Linen  Upholstery 

Art   Gift   Department 


— ■mm—!^m—»— —■— j—^— i 


THE    ONLY    HOTEL    PROPERTY    IN    WASHINGTON 

OWNED    BY    THE    UNITED    STATES    GOVERNMENT 

ROOMS  WITH  PRIVATE  BATHS  HOT  AND  COLD  WATER  IN  EVERY  ROOM 

We  NEW  OXFORD 

Pennsylvania    Avenue    and    Fifteenth    Street 
J.  H.  WEAVER,  Proprietor  (opposite  u.    s.    treasury) 

RATES:    $1.50  and  up 


OquuLe  listers 

1106  Connecticut  Avenue 

Entrance  next  Peter  Paul  Inn  Telephone  Main  6956 

HAIK,  HENNA  AND    SKIN  SPECIALISTS 

Gentlemen    Treated    by    Appointment 

We  have   no   other  Washington   Office 

N.  Y.  office,  505  Fifth  Ave.  Paris  office,  23  Rue  de  la  Paix 


TRADE  ANNOUNCEMENTS  13 


WE   FIT   THE    HEAD  PHONE,   MAIN   6591 

>£  immermann 
jttfUbwrj)-- 

NEAR   DU   PONT  CIRCLE  1307  CONNECTICUT  AVE. 


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A  Good.  Place  to  See 


i^ljerratf  h  GUjttta  Art  %Xaxs 

608    18th    STREET,    NORTHWEST 
WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

Beautiful  hand  painted   and   lustred  china 

Royal  Dux  Ornaments 

All  kinds  of  materials  for  china  painting 

LARGE      LINE      OF      WHITE      CHINA 


"Say    it    With    Flowers"  Phones,   Main   2416-17-18 

CHOICEST  FLOWERS 

OF  ALL  KINDS  AT  REASONABLE  PRICES 

Deliveries  by  Express  and  Telegraph  Anywhere 

GEO.  C.  SHAFFER      Cor.  14th  and  I  Sts. 


"Hats  of-  Tomorrow  Shown  Today" 

ILeon  Co. 

1227  F  Street,  N.  W. 

New  York     ::     Boston      ::     Baltimore     :%     Pittsburgh 


14  RIDER'S  WASHINGTON 


ESTBD.  1804 

H.  O.  PLUGGE 

VICE-PRES.  AND  TREASURER 

LUTZ  AND  COMPANY, 

Inc. 

MANUFACTURERS    AND    IMPORTERS 

TRUNKS 

::    BAGS  AND  LEATHER 

GOODS 

"of  the  better  grade" 

1325  G   STREET                              TEIJEPHONE, 

MAIN  244 

ESTABLISHED    1 86 1 


tj~rankun  Or  Uo. 

©pticians 

1329     P     STREET     NORTHWEST 


Bert  L.  Olmsted  Geo.   F.   Triebler 

The  BARTHOLDI 

RESTAURANT  FOR  MEN 

♦ 

1341  F  STREET  NORTHWEST 
WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

♦ 
"BEST         PLACE        IN         TOWN        TO        EAT" 


TRADE  ANNOUNCEMENTS 


15 


Visitors 
are  Invited 


to  look  through  our  shop  at  their  leisure.  Here  are  displayed 
the  newest  thoughts  of  the  world's  fashion  creators.  From  Paris 
our  commissionere  sends,  fortnightly,  frocks,  hats,  novelties,  as 
they  appear  on  the  Rue  de  la  Paix.  Our  New  York  buying  office 
senses  the  pulse  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  shops  and  keeps  us 
informed.  Our  home  organization  makes  frequent  trips  to  these 
centers  of  fashion. 

A  visit  to  Jelleff's  will  surely  be  of  interest 
1216  F  STREET,  N.  W.  WASHINGTON,  D.   C. 


HARRIMAN  &  CO. 

MEMBERS  NEW  YORK  STOCK  EXCHANGE 

COLORADO    BUILDING 

MAIN    1603  MAIN  OFFICE 

Trinity    Building 

hi    Broadway 

New  York 

Cable  Address,  Harco,   New  York 


G. 

B. 

Chipman 

Resident 

Partner 

L. 

W. 

Todd,   Manager 

Franck   Hyatt,  Jr. 
Ass't 

Manager 

or 

a  la  Carte 


R  ESTAURANT 

404   12th  Street,  N.  W.    (Opposite   Raleigh  Hotel) 
Phone,   Franklin   4178  C.   GAL.L.OTTI,   Manager 


i6 

RIDER'S   WASHINGTON 

THE 

Rider  Press 

(INCORPORATED) 

♦ 

BOOK  AND  PERIODICAL 

PRINTERS 
AND 

PUBLISHERS 

♦ 

241  WEST  3?th  STREET 
NEW    YORK  CITY 

(|     106    8  9 

THIS     VOLUME   IS    A     SAMPLE    OF    OUR    WORK 


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