Rock gardens; how to make and maintain them

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ROCK GARDENS

THE IRIS VALLEY
(In the Author’s Garden)

ROCK GARDENS

HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN
THEM

BY

LEWIS B. MEREDITH

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY

Srr FREDERICK W. MOORE

M.A., A.L.S.

SECOND EDITION

NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
597/599 FIFTH AVENUE
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I DEDICATE THIS, MY FIRST BOOK,

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PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION

i Am glad to have an opportunity of rectifying
an omission that occurred in the Preface to
the First Edition of this book—namely, to
acknowledge, when writing Chapter XI., the
great help I received from the valuable paper by
Mr Clutton Brock in the Royal Horticultural
Society’s Journal, vol. xxxv., part 2, page 167
et seg., to which I would refer my readers.
Since the First Edition rock gardening has
‘ecome increasingly popular, and to meet the
growing demand many new plants have been
put on the market. Some of them are
acquisitions, while others, though new to
horticulture, are of little value. I have
endeavoured to select those likely to prove
worthy additions to the already long list of

plants for the rock garden.
vii b

Vill PREFACE

My best thanks are due to Mr Clarence
Elliot for the list of plants he has found
suitable for the moraine, and also for the
description and cultural directions of the
novelties he has introduced.

LEWIS B. MEREDITH.

November 1913.

PREFACE

A worp of introduction seems needed to
explain the purpose of this book. No branch
of horticulture at the present time occupies
so much general attention as rock-gardening.
Yet not a single book deals with the subject of
the cost, which I have attempted to estimate,
basing it on my own practical experience. It
is superfluous to observe that I have not
aspired to any literary graces, but merely to
tell simply what I believe to be needed.
My aim has been to provide a practical
volume which will enable anyone to make and
plant a rock garden. When making my own,
I know what I had to find out for myself, and
in the following pages my endeavour has been
to save others the trouble. If I may occasion-

ally seem to repeat myself, it is because I wish
ix

x PREFACE

to emphasise more clearly the salient points
of my subject. A rock garden is one of the
most fascinating of possessions. It is an in-
exhaustible mine of pleasure; it entails no
heavy labour, and is within the most modest
means. If others derive half the enjoyment
from their rock gardens that I have from
mine, they will be abundantly repaid for any
trouble they may take. Should I be of use
to any unknown reader, I trust he will not
hesitate to write to me, as I shall be delighted
to reply to any questions he may care to put.
My warmest thanks are due to Mr Frederick
W. Moore, Curator of the Royal Botanic
Gardens, Glasnevin, who not only assisted me
throughout by his kind advice, but also for
ushering in my book. A preface from an
acknowledged authority of his renown dig-
nifies my own modest effort and gives it an
importance to which it could not otherwise
aspire. JI am also deeply indebted to Mr
W. Irving, of the Royal Botanical Gardens at
Kew, for so kindly checking the lists of plants
at the end of the book. Passed by him, they,

can be safely commended both to the novice

PREFACE xl

and to the more experienced owners of rock
gardens. Grateful acknowledgments must also
bev mace to «Mir Fy W. Moore and (Mrs
Delves- Broughton, who have so graciously
given me photographs, and to the Editor of
the Ladies Fld for kind permission to

reproduce some of them.

LEWIS B. MEREDITH.

GRAIGUECONNA,
Bray, Co. WicKLow.

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INTRODUCTION

LITERATURE treating of gardens and of garden-
ing has been offered in plenty to garden lovers
in recent years. It may fairly be said that
much of it had better have been left unwritten,
as it really has served no useful purpose, and
has only tended to confuse rather than to assist
novices, or even those with some experience
of plants and their requirements. Such stric-
tures cannot apply to this volume. Tt; 1s 4a
practical work, written by a practical man
about a subject which he thoroughly under-
stands, and by one who has experienced all the
joys and sorrows connected with the cultivation
of rock plants and alpines. The rock garden
is no longer a feature to be found only in large
establishments or in Botanical Gardens. The

pleasure which is derived from the successful

xlil

XIV INTRODUCTION

cultivation of miniature gems and of dwarf
alpine plants is now fully recognised, and rock
gardens have become a popular feature in
gardening of to-day. Ina properly constructed
rock garden many little plants which refuse
to grow and live under the ordinary conditions
of an herbaceous border, and which resent the
ageressive attentions of their more robust
neighbours, generally demonstrating their re-
sentment by dying, can be cultivated and kept
in health and vigour for many years, protected
by stones, sheltered from drying winds, and from
shade or sunshine, dryness or moisture, accord-
ing to their requirements. They can, owing
to their raised position, be seen and tended in
a manner more conducive to the comfort of
the observer and cultivator than would be
possible if they were grown on the flat.

To ensure even moderate success in rock
gardening two main points are essential: a
properly constructed rock garden, and a re-
liable guide to the nature and requirements of
plants to be grown on it. There existed a
demand for a sound practical work, giving

explicit and detailed information on _ these

INTRODUCTION XV

points, and this volume meets it. Mr
Meredith writes with practical experience.
His own rock garden, constructed by himself,
is artistic in conception, covers a considerable
area, and suits the requirements of a large and
varied collection of all classes of alpines. In
it many difficult subjects, such as Edrianthus
Pumilio, Morisia, Androsace Sarmentose, Carnea,
Villosa, Saxifraga retusa, aretioides, cesta,
Diapensoides, Daphne cneorum and Blagayana,
flourish and grow into good-sized tufts.

The details of how this success has been
achieved are fully explained, concisely but
clearly, and all necessary information is given.

F. W. MOORE, M.A., A.L.S.

Royat Botanic GARDENS,
GLasNEVIN, DuBLIN.

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CONTENTS

PART T
CHAPTER I

THE SITE

Surroundings—What to avoid—Objections to trees
—Aspect—Contour—Nature of soil—Chief
points to be noted—Typical site

CHAPTER II
THE TYPES OF ROCK GARDEN

The natural—The artificiak—Types of the natural
—The old quarry—The amphitheatre—The
horseshoe—The valley—The clitf—The rocky
bank—The rocky knoll—Points to be noted—
Types of the artificial _— The sunken — The
eravel-pit—Bank and knoll types—The rocky
bed—The very large rock garden—Advantages
and disadvantages of the natural—Advantages
and disadvantages of the artificial

CHAPTER III
THE NATURAL ROCK GARDEN

First preparations—Cleaning ground—Exposing and
preparing the rock—Pockets natural and artificial

CHAPTER IV
THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN

What can be done with a level field—Laying out the

garden—Boldness of design—Preparing banks
xvil

PAGE

13

32

XVIll CONTENTS

for rockwork—Treatment of natural valley—
Formation of banks—Example of a “valley”
garden—Points to be noted in excavations—
The hollow garden— Gradient of slopes —
Drainage—Aspect—Bank and knoll types and
their treatment—Rock bed—Very large rock
garden—Difficulties connected with this type
of garden—Points to be noted in artificial rock
gardens

CHAPTER V
THE ROCKWORK

Kind of rock to use and what to avoid—Principles of
particular construction—Types of rockwork to
avoid— The placing of individual rocks—Fissures
and how to make them—Strata—Principles of
general construction — Paths — Steps — The
moraine

CHAPTER VI
THE SOIL

Importance of climate—Best type of soil—Supplying
deficiencies in soil— Necessity of loosening
ground—Drainage

CHAPTER VII
THE BOG GARDEN

Position—Natural bog Sata OREN bog garden
—The stream : : : A

CHAPTER VIII
THE WILD AND WATER GARDENS

The wild garden—Treatment—List of plants suit-
able—T’he water garden—Treatment—List of
plants suitable

38

64

85

95

108

CONTENTS

CHAPTER IX
THE WALL GARDEN

Position and SS ano ache aa the old
wall

CHAPTER -X
PROPAGATION

Propagation by seed—By division and cuttings—
Methods of raising from seed— Methods of
propagation by division — By cuttings — By
layers . : ; : 3

CHAPTER XI

CULTIVATION

Climatic difficulties—-Contrasting natural and artificial
conditions—Tendency to loss of characteristic
growth—Methods of overcoming climatic difh-
culties—Importance of proper planting —Time
to piant—Importance of top-dressing in spring
woo i and how to deal
with them . : :

CHAPTER XII
PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN

Points for consideration—Difference between alpines
and rock plants—Grouping—Examples of same
—Planting bulbs— Ferns— Caution against
rampant-growing plants—Importance of pro-
portion—Planting shrubs

xix

PAGE

117

126

155

xX CONTENTS

CHAPTER XIII
COST

Points affecting the cost—Labour—Clearing scrub—
Drainage—Estimated cost of rocks, sand, etc.—
Cost of making artificial bog garden—Cost of
plants . : : s i . 4

Vii Jie AYO eh

Alphabetical list of plants suitable for the rock garden

A selection of plants for dry and sunny positions, and
time of flowering

A selection of plants for full sun or partial sunny
positions, and time of flowering .

A selection of plants for positions in deep shade
A selection of plants for partial shady positions .

A selection of plants for moist positions in sun or
shade

A selection of plants suitable for trailing over rocks
List of plants suitable for the moraine
A selection of dwarf shrubs, pines, and conifers

A selection of hardy ferns suitable for rock garden in
sun or half shade.

A selection of hardy ferns for shady position
A selection of bulbous plants
Plants for massing s -

INDEX .

PAGE

201

215

374

375
376
377

378
378
380
381

382
383
383
385
386

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Tue Iris Vatiey, in AuTHoR’s GARDEN

(in colours) . ‘ ; : ‘ . Frontispiece

TO FACE PAGE

Rock GARDEN AND STREAM, Mount UsHER ._ 10
VALLEY TyPE . ; : : i ; a SRO
A » PORTION OF AUTHOR’s GARDEN . I4
Fowore “Type. 3 ‘ d : ; a BO
Bank Type. (In course of construction) . MeO
ms ue (Site being cleared) : : hy a2

a a (Rocks in place) . : ‘ ape
Rocky Bep : ; : : : : aN pee
HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS . : ‘ ; pant |
Warrey Tyree. E ‘ : : : ON ZO

Tue Bank. (Roughly formed before rocks are put
into place) . E - : : ‘ ae eo

First Line or Rocks Lain. : : PS)

Seconp LINE oF Rocks IN POsITION . ; : 50

xX1

Xxil LIST OF TLEUSTRATIONS

TO FACE PAGE

Rockwork ADVANCING UP THE HILL. L Bas
NEARING CoMPLETION 4 : : : J) ae
THe CompLtete Rock work : 4 : Se
EXAMPLE OF RocKworK . ‘ ‘ , Par 6

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A WELL-covERED Rock Bank . ‘ 1 98
Rocky STEPs . : A : : ; a1) (OQ
Boc GARDEN IN AuTHoR’s Rock GARDEN . tage
WatTER GARDEN ; : ; ‘ : . aa
Part oF Watt Garpven, Mount UsuHer . .) 1126

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DIANTHUS ALPINUS . : : dH : 3)
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SAXIFRAGA APICULATA : : . Bae
SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA . : : ; 2|) a
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CHAPTER: 1

THE SITE

Surroundings — What to avoid — Objections to trees—
Aspect—Contour—Nature of soil—Chief points to
be noted—Typical site.

“WuereE shall I lay it out?” This is the
first of the many problems to confront one
who intends to become the happy possessor of
arock garden. In some cases this unfortu-
nately presents but few difficulties—unfortu-
nately, I say, for then the ground that is avail-
able, frequently not of the most suitable, is so
limited that there is little, if any, choice in
the matter. But others, who have a greater
variety of positions to select from, will need
to give the question more careful considera-
tion. Therefore it would be a mistake to
lay down any hard and fast rule as to where

the site should or should not be, for this
3

4 ROCK GARDENS

must obviously greatly depend on what choice
of positions there is.

A rock garden can be made almost anywhere
—almost, be it emphasised ; for under certain
conditions, which I shall point out later on,
the chances of success would be but small.

But no matter what the position is, whether
the spot selected be the most ideal, or the
most unpromising, it will require considerable
thought and no little skill to lay out the
garden to the best advantage.

The object of this book is to help the reader
to approach as near as circumstances will
allow to the ideal rock garden: that earthly
Paradise, which, alas! the skill of mortal
man has not yet achieved, nor ever will,
I fear.

Though there is a great difference of opinion
as to what this lovely spot should be like, at
the same time there are many points on which
all agree. Some indeed are absolutely essential
to the well-being of those alpine gems, which
one hopes to see grow and thrive as they do
in their natural home, though too often one
is doomed to disappointment. Yet be not

THE, SITE 5

discouraged, for there are many and _ lovely
plants which are not in the least difficult to
cultivate, and which will amply repay the care
devoted to them. But two conditions they do
require, light and pure air, which, as with all
plants, are essential to success, and indeed
I may add a third, sufficient drainage. One
has only to remember where most of these
treasures make their home in order to realise
how important these factors are.

Let us for a moment imagine ourselves on
some mountain slope where the alpines are in
their natural state ; where the Androsaces and
Saxifrages carpet the boulder-strewn ground,
or beautify the weather-beaten rock with their
dainty loveliness ; where by the tiny stream can
be seen the lovely Soldanellas and Ranunculus
and a thousand other plants to delight the
heart of man. Standing there, gazing around,
what a picture meets the eye! The craggy
height above ; below, the wind-swept pines ;
and, far as the eye can reach, range upon range
of mountains with their eternal snow-capped
peaks glistening in the sunshine. Here is no

jarring note ; all is peace and quiet. Nowhere

6 ROCK GARDENS

has the hand of man marred the beauty of the
landscape. We see Nature as she is.

With this picture in our minds let us see
how best to apply the lesson it has taught us.

First we learn that the rock garden
should, where possible, be out of sight of all
stiff surroundings ; out of sight of the formal
garden, with its trim beds and smooth lawn,
its close-clipped hedges and rose-clad walls, in
some quiet and secluded spot merging from
the shrubbery or wild garden. At the same
time let it not be so far from the house as to
prevent us snatching odd moments amongst
our treasures to see what flower has at last
bloomed out, or what special plant was raided
by the slugs last night.

As variety of outline is one of the keystones
of success, endeavour to select a spot that will
afford this with the minimum amount of
labour.

As the spots to choose from are so many
and varied, perhaps it would be best, first of
all, to find out what should be avoided and
what conditions would militate against success.

The worst and perhaps really the only hope-

THE SITE 7

less site is one with large overhanging trees ;
for the drip from their branches would all
too soon prove fatal to the plants underneath.
Although there are some plants that will live
and even thrive beneath trees, they are not
sufficiently attractive to cultivate exclusively.
So to choose such a spot would be but to
court disaster; and in addition to the damage
caused by the drip from the branches, the
roots of the trees would very soon exhaust the
soil that had been so carefully prepared for the
alpine treasures. It would surprise many to
find to what a distance these roots extend. So,
above all, let there be no trees overhead, and,
if possible, none within at least 15 yards—this
is the minimum,—and then only to the north
and west. On the other points, south and
east, they should be still further away—at
least 30 yards,—and even at that distance, as
few of them as possible. For if they are closer,
the air, which all plants so urgently require,
will be shut out, and part at least of the
garden will be in constant shade during
the winter, with fatal results to many of the
plants. Therefore, when feasible, choose a

8 ROCK GARDENS

position where there is no chance of trees
intercepting the low winter sun, for this is
more valuable when the days are short than
during the summer months.

In cases where, owing to unavoidable
circumstances, the trees on the north and
west are rather close, provided there is no
drip on the garden from their branches, much
may be done to overcome the root trouble.
A narrow trench sunk rather deeper than the
roots of the trees descend, and filled with rough
concrete, will form an effectual barrier.

Now, having decided that the site must
not be overshadowed nor shut in by trees,
the next point to be considered is the aspect.

This is all-important. The problem is to
find out at what point sufficient, but not too
much, sunshine can be obtained with due
regard to shelter from cold winds. A spot
should be selected having an aspect as nearly as
possible south-east ; and if there be a wood or
a belt of trees some distance off on the north-
west, so much the better. This aspect will
give the maximum amount of the winter’s sun,

and, as south-west is theoretically the hottest

THE SITE 9

point, the rock garden will not be so liable
to be burnt up during the summer.

The next point to be investigated is the
contour of the land, and on this will depend to
a great extent the type of rock garden to be
constructed.

Sloping ground, undulating if possible, is
undoubtedly the best, for thus more pleasing
effects can be obtained, with less labour and
expense, than can be expected on level ground,
and the fact that the drainage can be made
more effective is by no means the least im-
portant consideration. Hollows should at all
times be avoided when there are any difhi-
culties in the way of draining them effectively.
Nothing is more fatal to alpines, and indeed
to all plant life, than stagnant moisture, which
so quickly makes the ground sour.

The nature of the soil should be also taken
into account. Itis a great mistake to imagine
that rock plants do not require good soil; the
very best fibrous loam, the deeper the better,
with a light sandy subsoil, is what they delight
and revel in. Therefore, in the selection of a

site, avoid as far as possible anything in the

10 ROCK GARDENS

nature of a heavy clay soil in which it will be
found difficult if not impossible to grow many
of the choicer plants, and which will require
more drainage and be always hard to work,
whether in very dry or wet weather. A
stream should be brought through the garden,
if it can be obtained by fair means or foul.
The merest trickle will suffice, so long as it is
constant, but constant it must be, and it will add
tenfold to the charm of the garden and afford
unlimited possibilities.

Having fully described the chief conditions
favourable and unfavourable in selecting a
site, I briefly recapitulate them as follows :—
The garden, when circumstances will permit,
should be away from and out of sight of any-
thing formal, approached through the wild
garden or shrubbery, but still within reasonable
distance of the house; the ground should be
undulating, with good light fibrous loam, facing
south-east, with, when possible, a stream ; but,
most important of all, it must be free from
encroaching or overshadowing trees and have
plenty of air and sunshine.

Bearing these points in mind, a typical

[Zo face page 10,

ROCK GARDEN AND STREAM, MOUNT USHER.

(From a Photo. by Mrs Delves Broughton. )

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Pre. SITE II

position for this would-be garden of delights
may be considered. Perhaps at the foot of a
nicely wooded hill facing south-east, with
undergrowth around, there may be some open
spot, the extent of which is not altogether
important ; by removing some shrubs and
perhaps a few trees, it can be enlarged, if too
small, and, on the other hand, if too big, it will
afford scope for judicious planting. This open
ground may be in the form of a little valley
sloping up the hill, or, again, a small prominence
thrust out from the surrounding and gradually
rising ground, or undulating with natural hills
and hollows. Or, perhaps, the site could be a
miniature gorge with wooded heights on either
side and a stream flowing through it. These
are indeed ideal positions from which to select,
provided always that they afford sufficient air
and sunshine.

But with far less promising material—for
instance, a sloping field, or even a level one
—much can be done. The former is by far
the better of the two, for on level ground
the question of drainage would probably arise

and cause serious difficulties.

12 ROCK GARDENS

Sunken ground in the form of a large hollow,
such as an old sandpit, can be utilised to some
advantage, as can also an old quarry. These,
if wooded above, will make charming sites ;
but here again attention must be given to the
essential necessity of obtaining sufficient fall for
the drains. On that point let there be no un-
certainty, for, if the drains prove defective, but
a poor return will be made for time and money
expended.

The foregoing are, I think, a few of the most
usual sites to select, and their description will,
I hope, suggest to the reader how to make the
best choice of the ground he has at his disposal.
What form the garden will eventually take,
and how it can most advantageously be laid
out, will in a great measure depend on such
details as soil, locality, contour of ground,
money to be expended, etc. All these will be
dealt with in the following chapters.

CHAPTER II

THE TYPES OF ROCK GARDEN

The natural — The artificial — Types of the natural —
The old quarry — The amphitheatre — The horse-
shoe—The valley—The clif—The rocky bank—
The rocky knoll— Points to be noted — Types of
the artificiaa—The sunken—The gravel-pit— Bank
and knoll types — The rocky bed — The very
large rock garden — Advantages and disadvantages
of the natural — Advantages and disadvantages of
the artificial.

Tue different types of rock garden may be

divided into two sections, which can be called

the natural and the artificial.

In the Natural garden the rocks are already
placed there by Nature, and all that is required
is to utilise them to the best advantage.

In the Artificial garden—the name speaks
for itselfi—the rocks have to be placed, and in
some cases even the banks on which to lay

them have to be formed.
13

14 ROCK GARDENS

In the first section, the Natural, there are
three types—the old quarry, the rocky bank,
and the rocky knoll.

The second section is more varied, and in it
may be included the sunken garden, the old
gravel-pit, the bank, the knoll, the rocky bed,
and the very large rock garden.

The old quarry, a favourite and very
charming site for a rock garden, and one that
has many points to recommend it, is hard to
deal with owing to the difficulty of adorning
the large masses of perpendicular rocks, which,
although capable of giving very striking effects
with their cataract of flower and foliage, require
years of growth even under the most favour-
able conditions. It usually takes one of four
forms, which may be called the amphitheatre,
the horseshoe, the cliff, and the valley.

First let us note the amphitheatre, a very
uncommon type. This formation, as the name
would imply, is a hollow almost or entirely
surrounded by rocky sides, and will seldom be
a really suitable site. Most probably it will be
‘found very difficult to drain thoroughly, and

even were this done, there would still be that

[To face page 14.

VALLEY TYPE,

VALE Vib E PORTIONS OE AUTHOR'S GARDEN.

(Veronica Lavaudiana and Aubrietia Dr Mules in foreground, )

oe TYPES OF )ROCK) GARDEN | 15

want of air which causes plants to damp off,
especially during the winter. The only occasion
on which this form of quarry is admissible is
when it is on a very large scale, at least 25
yards across, and even then it will generally
prove but a doubtful success.

The next and perhaps the commonest form
is the semicircle or horseshoe, usually an excava-
tion into the side of a hill, giving bold rocky
places for planting. This is an excellent form
to choose, provided it fulfils certain conditions.
It should not open towards the north, for then
it would be exposed to the cold winds and
the greater part of the rocks would constantly
be in shade, and although some shady corners
will be found useful, the majority of plants
like the sun. In fact, any point but this will
do, for so long as the entrance is sheltered
from the north it is a matter of no great
importance where it may be; but the south-
east is preferable, for it gives greater variety
of position, both for sun- and shade-loving
plants.

The valley or defile form can be made very
effective. The best way for it to lie is east

16 ROCK GARDENS

and west, but this is not so important provided
that its course winds sufficiently. ‘The more
it winds the better, for it then provides the
greatest variety of aspects and sheltered and
shady nooks, the advantage of which will be
duly appreciated when the time comes for
planting. It will also be beneficial if the
bottom of the valley slopes gradually from
one end to the other, thereby ensuring more
efficient drainage. A stream down the centre,
when it can be obtained, greatly enhances the
charm and considerably enlarges the scope
for variety in plants that can be cultivated,
because those preferring moisture can be
planted on its banks, and those requiring a dry
soil will find a home on the heights above.
The cliff type, as the name implies, is of
abrupt formation, rising from comparatively
level ground, and is one of the best and most
effective forms, provided the aspect is suitable.
South-south-east is the best, but any other
point will do so long as it does not face towards
the north, for with a northern aspect the
garden would get but little sun, certainly not

the amount all alpines so imperatively require.

THE TYPESHVOP, ROCK -GARDEN > 27

In this type the surroundings should be care-
fully noted, so that they may be in keeping
with the proposed rock garden. ‘The ideal
approach is through some open and undulating
stony ground, with occasional patches of stunted
gorse and heather, dotted here and there with
oak, holly, or birch trees; then a stretch of
grassy sward, with occasional rocks, which
become more numerous as the slope gently
rises towards the foot of the cliff. Even this
is a delightful scene; but picture the face
of the rock, now bare, clothed with sheets
of Aubrietias, Rock Roses, Dianthus, and in-
numerable other equally lovely plants, the
Silver Saxifrages springing from some almost
invisible chink or cranny, and nestling close
to the rock, with their airy blooms waving in
the breeze, while from some shady nook the
Ramondias peep forth. This is indeed a de-
lightful picture, therefore care should be taken
to see that the frame is worthy of it.

There are now a few points to be noted
which apply equally to all the foregoing forms
of garden made from an old quarry.

The first and most important is to observe
2

18 ROCK GARDENS

the state of the quarried face of the rock. By
this is meant, whether it is much broken in
outline or presents a sheer, perpendicular face.
It should be rough and jagged, so as to give a
number of ledges—the more numerous they
are and the greater their variety the better—
forming steps or terraces, by which easy access
can be had to all parts. Otherwise it will
probably be necessary to plant the alpines and
examine them from the steps of a ladder, which,
to say the least, is not desirable. But, bad as
a too smooth surface may be, an overhanging
rock face is even worse. An odd protruding
ledge here and there does not so much matter,
in fact they may prove of service, but even
they should not be of sufficient size to prevent
the rain from reaching the plants below. The
whole tendency of the rock should be to slope
back from the ground at the foot, for it is
necessary that rain should have access to every
part. ‘Though it is wonderful in what ap-
parently dry and arid spots alpines will thrive, it
is certain that their roots must find moisture
somewhere. Few people realise to what an

extent rocks retain moisture even during a dry

fH: TYPES OF ROCK ‘GARDEN: t9

season, so it is important that the slope should
be sufficient to catch and store the rain. If it
is intended to conduct a stream through the
garden, make sure the outlet will be such as to
prevent any risk of the garden suffering from
flood.

The next type is the rocky bank. This,
as its name would imply, is a bank of natural
rock, and may be the face of a small hill, or
form part of a large one.

It is, in fact, rather similar to the quarry
cliff, already described, except that the rock,
being as nature left it, will probably have a
more gradual slope, and therefore possess the
advantage of being easier to clothe.

The advice as regards surroundings applies
equally here. The rock garden should be
approached through shrubbery or wild garden,
and situated in some open, though not too ex-
posed, spot facing south-east, with a back-
ground of suitable trees, such as oak, holly, or
birch, or any of the Conifer family.

The rocky knoll is the next and the last of
the natural types. It may be a small eminence

of rocky ground standing out by itself, or a

20 ROCK GARDENS

sort of promontory on the side of a hill, or on
sloping ground.

This type is practically identical with the
last described, except that in this case the whole
or the greater part of the hill is dealt with,
whereas in the former only one face of it was.
The knoll is undoubtedly the better of the two,
for with it a much greater variety of aspects can
be obtained, and also more scope for developing
the different natural undulations of the ground.
The aspect is, of course, unimportant, for a hill
standing by itself will be open to all points of
the compass ; and even if it be part of a larger
hill, it will be shaded only on one side, which
will not so greatly matter. With this type,
also, care should be taken that the surround-
ings are suitable.

As this concludes the types of the natural
rock gardens, a few points in connection with
them may be mentioned before proceeding to
the artificial.

In the first place, large masses of rock have
to be dealt with as placed by Nature’s all-
powerful hand, and we must therefore adapt

ourselves to whatever conditions we may find.

| Zo face page 20.

KNOLL TYPE.

BANK TYPE,

(In course of construction. )

THE TYPES OF ROCK GARDEN 21

Since the chief object is to provide as many
spots as possible to plant in, select the type
of rock that will give the greatest variety of
pockets, remembering at the same time that
all pockets, no matter of what size, must be able
tobedrained. The necessity of draining having
already been emphasised in the first chapter, it
is superfluous to dwell further on it here.

The quality of the rock should be carefully
observed, and if there be any choice in the
matter, select a soft and porous stone, such as
sandstone, in preference to hard rock. The
former has the double advantage of absorbing
the moisture essential to plants, and minimising
labour when it comes to making drains.

Examination of the different types of arti-
ficial rock gardens reveals that they are, as
one would naturally expect, more difficult and
probably more expensive to make, demanding
more thought and skill to engineer successfully
than do the natural gardens. On the other
hand, they possess the great advantage of ex-
treme adaptability, for they can be made
almost anywhere, from a level field to the

side of a mountain.

22 ROCK GARDENS

The first and perhaps the most usual is that
type which, for the want of a better name, I
shall call the sunken garden. One form of
this is a sunken path, the centre of a little
valley. ‘The other is represented by a large
hollow with banks surrounding level ground,
rather similar to what was called the horseshoe
in the quarry type.

Of these two, the former is the more usual
and indeed the most attractive ; nor is the reason
far to seek, for in this type every aspect can
be obtained by making the paths wind sufh-
ciently ; this at the same time has the advan-
tage of providing, in a limited area, more surface
whereon to plant. This form can be made
on the level; but sloping ground is to be pre-
ferred, for the effect is better, and, what is more,
or at least equally, important, the drainage can
thereby be assured. The surroundings, as in
all other cases, should be as wild and natural
as possible, though much may be accomplished
by judicious planting. As the latter, however,
takes years to become really effective, it is best,
whenever practicable, to have the surroundings

provided by natural means.

[Zo face page 22.

ee
1 kod ty aor

BANK TYPE.
(Site being cleared. )

ee

Rigen >
Yan &
Ee ary *

BANK TYPE,
(Rocks in place.)

THE, TYPES OF, ROCK)|GARDEN 22

The large hollow is not a form which re-
commends itself very much, for it is apt to
look too artificial and also entails considerable
labour to make. But in cases where there is
only a very limited extent of ground it is useful,
for in this form the maximum amount of
surface available for planting can be obtained.
It must be on sloping ground, for to dig a
large hollow in the level will usually result
in the formation of a small lake. The lower
side should be open and at least level with the
surrounding ground, above it if possible. This
entrance should face either east or south ; the
north is the least desirable aspect, because
then so little of the garden would get any sun.

The grave/-pit is practically identical with
the foregoing, except that the hollow is already
made. The lie of the ground here must also be
such as to ensure the drainage being efficacious,
and the open side should face any point except
the north, preferably south or east.

The dank and knoll types are exactly the
same as the rocky bank and rocky knoll
already described, except that in the former

the natural rock is already there, while in the

24 ROCK GARDENS

latter cases we have only the soil, and the rock
will have to be placed.

Both these types are attractive, but in a
great measure dependent on the natural contour
of the ground, which should lend itself to their
several requirements. ‘The bank form can be
made in a gently sloping field, but the labour
entailed would be great. In the case of the
knoll, so great would it be that I would not
advise the reader to embark on it, not at least
on a large scale, for I doubt if the result
would sufficiently repay him.

Next we will deal with the rocky bed or
very small rock garden. This is a most
delightful and useful way of growing alpines
for those who can only spare a few square yards,
or who do not wish to attempt anything
larger. The surroundings in a garden of this
kind are not, of course, of such importance
as in the case of the larger gardens, but all
the same it is as well to select as sunny and
open a spot as can be obtained, and removed
as far as possible from the shade or drip of
trees. There is no garden, no matter how

small, that cannot have a rocky bed, tiny

THE TYPES OF ROCK GARDEN 25

though it may have to be; and it is surpris-
ing with what success some of the most diffi-
cult alpines can thus be cultivated, creating no
small amount of envy amongst the possessors
of larger rock gardens.

The best and most usual form is a raised
bed, the outline of which may be as varied as
fancy dictates. It can also be made on the
sunken principle, but would then occupy more
space and not prove as satisfactory in many
ways, whilst it would also entail more labour
and greater cost. For all that is aimed at in
a garden of the rocky bed type is to have some
spot in which to grow the choicest treasures.
It is useless to endeavour to imitate larger
gardens, because the result would be only
disappointing and would look puny and out of
keeping. ‘Therefore I most strongly recommend
those who cannot, owing to circumstances,
have any of the foregoing types, to try the
rocky bed, and I feel sure they will never
regret the experiment.

We will now go to the other extreme and
describe the very /arge rock garden. This
garden is diametrically opposed to all other

26 ROCK GARDENS

types hitherto dealt with, in which the alpines
are grown on the lower banks or slopes, with
shrubs and trees above; for in this case the
shrubs are planted in the valleys and the alpines
on the heights. Without doubt this is copy-
ing nature more closely; but to be effective
the plan must be on a large scale, and cover
at least two or three acres, composed of natur-
ally very broken ground, with hills and hollows
well defined and as varied as possible.

The rockwork must correspondingly be of a
bolder formation and its lines more generous.
If this is not the case, the result will be but
a poor and insignificant imitation of Nature’s
handiwork, and consequently be far from
pleasing. As, however, bold rockwork entails
larger rocks, with cost and labour increased
proportionately, I should not advise anybody
to whom expense is a matter of importance
to embark on a garden of this type. But
those who are fortunate enough to be indiffer-
ent to cost, and who possess suitable ground,
may well be urged to make this style of garden,
and I feel sure that they will never have cause

for regret, provided it is skilfully laid out.

[Zo face page 26.

ROCKY BED,

HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS.

THE TYPES; OF, ROCK GARDEN 47

The surroundings are, if possible, even more
important than in any of the foregoing types,
for here ugly spots cannot be planted out with
banks of shrubs, and, as the paths and rockwork
are on the heights, there is every opportunity
of seeing those walls and hedges which we fain
would imagine to be miles away. For these
reasons, therefore, the site should be some
distance from any of those blots which mar
the view, and the approach should be through
some wood, or ground of a similar and un-
cultivated character.

A spot such as the following would be
ideal : a large open stretch of very undulating
and broken ground at the foot of a wooded
hill—with perhaps a stream running through
it into a piece of marshy ground at its lower side
—which in turn merges into scrub and stunted
trees, fully exposed to all points except, per-
haps, the north, where it is sheltered by a belt
of ancient and majestic pines. This would
indeed be a spot worthy of the bestowal of every
care and trouble, in order to develop it to the
best advantage. ‘The ground for a garden of
this sort must be very undulating ; by undulat-

28 ROCK GARDENS

ing I do not mean merely uneven ground, but
a spot with well-defined hills and hollows—the
bolder and more marked they are the better.
This concludes a terse survey of the various
types of rock gardens, and some consideration
of the various advantages offered by each may
assist in deciding which of them shall be
adopted. Asa rule, though, the choice is but
“¢ Hobson’s choice,” for the site in most cases
decides the type that will have to be adopted.
The advantages of all rock gardens belong-
ing to the natural section, quarry, rocky bank,
or knoll, are that the rock is there ready
placed by nature in masses far larger and
bolder than could ever artificially be put into
position, and that, for this reason, more striking
effects can be obtained, both as regards height
and boldness of outline. It may also bea very
cheap garden to make. But this is a very
uncertain quantity, and is difficult to ascertain
at first. It may ultimately turn out to be both
expensive and troublesome, because so much
depends on the formation and description of
the rock. One of the disadvantages is that it
is often very difficult, and, in fact, at times

THE TYPES OF ROCK GARDEN 29

almost impossible to get as much soil into the
pockets as the plants that are to inhabit them
require. Often, indeed, it is hard to find
pockets or ledges of any description where
they are wanted, and although rocks are
attractive in conjunction with flowers, still
they are only the means to an end, and that
end the cultivation of the plants. Effective
drainage may at times be found difficult
and expensive to carry out successfully, but
as this depends enormously on the texture
of the rock and other circumstances, it would
be a mistake to lay down any hard and fast
rules regarding it.

It is a great fallacy to imagine that alpines,
because they are dwarf-growing, do not re-
quire a deep rooting medium, for there is
no class of plants whose roots penetrate so
deeply in comparison to their height. In
addition, as all the rockwork has to be artificial,
every description of pocket and ledge can be
made, as varied and numerous as the needs of
the plants demand, the benefit of which will
be found when the time comes for putting the

alpines into their home.

30 ROCK GARDENS

The chief disadvantage is purely a matter
of cost, though this is often a rather important
point. The labour of digging out the garden
and, in all probability, of having to cart the rocks
some distance means expense. ‘Those people
are fortunate indeed who have the rocks close
at hand, and only those who have had to
draw their supplies of stones from a distance
can fully realise how great a saving it is.

The merits of the sloping bank and knoll
types are, that if the ground has the necessary
conformation, the only labour entailed is to
clear the surface of scrub and weeds, and to
place the rocks in position ; therefore, unless
any unforeseen difficulty should arise, they are
probably the least costly types to make, but
at the same time they are not so effective as
are some of the other forms.

As regards the old sand- or gravel-pit, pretty
well the same remarks apply to them as the
foregoing, except that in these cases soil may
have to be procured in addition to rocks, and
perhaps, the outline being bolder, better effects
may be obtained.

The small rocky bed (we can scarcely call

[ Zo face page 30.

VALLEY TYPE.

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THE TYPES OF ROCK GARDEN 31

it a rock garden) has this advantage over all
the other types, that it can be made in a very
limited space ; but it does not give scope for
the effective massing of plants; its purpose
is merely to satisfy those who wish to grow
alpines, but do not desire to embark on any
large undertaking.

We now come to the last, namely, the large
rock garden with its shrub-filled valleys. This
form, provided that the space is large enough
and its undulations sufficiently well and boldly
defined, can be made most effective ; but it is,
without doubt, the most difficult to lay out
really well, and the cost, owing to its size, must
be considerable, for in order to get the proper
effect it must be made on very generous lines.
Big, bold masses of rockwork are essential to
success, and these should so combine with the
undulations of the ground as to give it that
natural appearance which should be the
characteristic feature of all rock gardens.

CHAPTER III

THE NATURAL ROCK GARDEN

First preparations—Cleaning ground—Exposing and pre-
paring the rock—Pockets natural and artificial.
Tuis chapter will be devoted to the develop-
ment of the natural rock garden, the various
types of which have been dealt with in the

previous chapter.

As may be expected, very similar treatment
will be required for all types, in order to convert
them from rocks, either bare or covered with
rank vegetation, into gardens in which the
choicest flowers can be grown. ‘The follow-
ing directions will therefore equally apply to
all natural rock gardens, irrespective of their
various forms.

When the scene of operations has been
decided on, the first thing to be done is, if

necessary, to expose the surface of the rocks
32

THE NATURAL ROCK ‘GARDEN | 33

and clean out every nook and cranny, remov-
ing all weeds or other vegetation growing
there. This will at times be found no light
task, for it is surprising how roots, especially
those of weeds, penetrate into almost invisible
fissures. It is difficult to oust such a plant as
a dandelion when it gets its long and fleshy
tap-root down several inches into some crack
in solid rock, for it will not be sufficient merely
to cut off its crown—its severed crown will
promptly reappear worse than before.

All overhanging trees should be cut down
which are likely to cause a drip on to the
plants below, or which would in any way
shut out light and air from the garden. It
is, however, advisable, in the initial stages at
least, to leave any small stunted trees or shrubs
springing from fissures in the face of the
rock, or clinging to its summit, especially
if these include such kinds as mountain
ash, oak, holly, or any of the Conifer
family. They are characteristic of and in
keeping with mountain plants, and can
easily be removed later, if it be deemed
advisable.

34 ROCK GARDENS

When the work of clearing and exposing
the rock has been done, the next operation is
to prepare receptacles for the soil in which
to grow the plants. These may be obtained
by opening up and developing natural fissures,
by making new ones, or by forming pockets
among the rocks.

The only means of accomplishing this 1s
with the crowbar or cold chisel, assisted at
times with some explosive, such as dynamite
or gunpowder; but this latter method is
dangerous in every sense. Besides requiring
very careful manipulation, it is very apt to do
more harm than good by removing rocks that
would have been better left, or by impercep-
tibly loosening others, the first intimation
of whose unstable condition is finding them
one morning at the foot of the cliff burying
some of our choicest plants in their déérzs.
It is well to remember, when splitting rocks,
whether it be for the purpose of making or
enlarging some crevice, or opening up some
pocket, to first find out how the “grain”
of the rock runs, and split the rocks with, not

across it. For rock, like wood, has a regular

THE NATURAL ROCK GARDEN — 35

and defined dip or grain, though perhaps not
as well marked as the latter.

As it is obviously impossible that any
definite rules can be laid down as to how
such pocket or fissure is to be formed, the
reader must exercise his own judgment in
the matter, and utilise the grain of the
rock to the best advantage. In no case
should a pocket or a crevice, whether per-
pendicular or horizontal, be made in an
overhanging rock face. Of even greater
importance is the necessity of ensuring that
the bottom of each pocket can be drained
thoroughly, even should this entail cutting
through solid rock. If this, however, be
found impossible owing to position, or other
circumstances, in order to prevent water
lodging, fill up the pocket with rough
concrete to the point where the draining
becomes effective.

When there is a difficulty in getting a
sufficient number of natural pockets in the
rock a good deal may be accomplished with
the assistance of cement, yet it should never

appear in the completed work, but always

36 ROCK GARDENS

be most carefully hidden by either plants
or soil.

Examples of this kind of work are the
building of a small terrace of stones along
the front of some ledge, incapable of holding
any or a sufficient depth of soil, or the fixing
of wedge-shaped pieces of stone with their
thin ends up in some large vertical fissure to
keep in the soil, which otherwise it would be
found difficult, if not impossible, to prevent
being washed out by heavy rain.

Bare rocky ledges which slope outwards in
such a way that the rain is thrown off, instead
of being directed back towards the soil behind,
can have this fault remedied by raising the
front with a layer of concrete.

Steps may also have to be cut to give access
to the plants. These should never be formal,
but as uneven as possible, and merely form
stepping-stones from one ledge to another.

Where a stream comes over the face of the
rock, its volume and course should be so con-
trolled that even in time of flood it can do no
damage to the plants growing beside it.

The two chief things to remember in the

THE NATURAL ROCK GARDEN 37

preparation of natural rockwork are first to
ensure thorough and efficient drainage of every
pocket, and next to provide space sufficient to
give that depth of soil all rock plants so
urgently require.

Great care should also be taken, when
putting soil into the pockets and crevices, to
work it thoroughly into every corner, so that
there is no possibility of leaving any air space,
which so often proves fatal to plants. With
regard to the soil required, full particulars

will be found in Chapter VI.

CHAPTER IV

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN

What can be done with a level field—Laying out the garden
—Boldness of design—Preparing banks for rockwork
—Treatment of natural valley—Formation of banks—
Example of a “valley” garden—Points to be noted in
excavations—The hollow garden—Gradient of slopes
—Drainage—Aspect—Bank and knoll types and their
treatment—Rocky bed—Very large rock garden—
Difficulties connected with this type of garden—Points
to be noted in artificial rock gardens.

Even more care and study are required to lay

out the artificial rock garden to the best

advantage than is the case with the natural
rock garden; for whereas in the latter the
position chosen will to a great extent, if not
altogether, determine the type it has to be,
this is not so with the artificial garden, or at
least not to the same extent. Take, for example,
a narrow field, sloping gradually from one end

to the other, which all will agree does not
38

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 39

appear the most promising material on which
to work. Yet even this can be developed into
three different types of garden.

By levelling a piece of ground across the
face of the slope, and raising the upper part
with the soil removed, we have the founda-
tion for the bank type; again, by sinking
a path up the slope of the field a little valley
is obtained ; and, lastly, by excavating into
the slope the foundation for a garden is made,
which will in a great measure correspond to
the horseshoe type. It is therefore quite
evident that it is necessary to devote con-
siderable thought and exercise no little skill
in laying out the ground, if it is to be done in
the best possible, and at the same time most
economical manner, and full advantage be taken
of all its natural formations.

The fact that the same piece of ground can
be laid out in several very different ways, all
equally good, or nearly so, does not simplify
the task.

It should also be realised that one cannot
expect to get quite such bold effects in the

artificial garden as are found in the natural, and

40 ROCK GARDENS

the reason of this is not far to seek, for in order
to obtain them large masses of rocks, weighing
at least several tons, would have to be put into
position, a Herculean task involving no little
cost, and a bigger undertaking than the majority
of people would care to attempt. But let it
not be for a moment supposed that these large
boulders are an absolute necessity, for quite as
attractive gardens can be made by using com-
paratively small rocks, so long as these rocks are
skilfully placed. On the placing of them the
ultimate result will in a great measure depend.

As it would be best perhaps to take the
several types by themselves, the little va//ey
shall be dealt with first.

Having selected a site of ground sloping, if
possible, for reasons already stated, the first thing
to be done is roughly to lay out its general lines.
Place a few stakes in the ground along the pro-
posed lines and study the effect from various
points. There are several things to be noted
when doing this. Let the valley lie as nearly
east and west as possible, and especially let it lead
from one definite point to another, and not look

as if it had come there by chance and with no

[ Zo face page 40.

THE BANK,

(Roughly formed before rocks are put into place. )

FIRST LINE OF ROCKS LAID.

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 41

object. Study the contour of the ground, and if,
owing to the surroundings, it appears as though
a path should come from one special place and
lead to another, mark these two points and lay
out the garden between them. The garden
should neither begin nor end too abruptly ;
let it commence with a barely perceptible
hollow, the height of the banks on either side
of the path gradually increasing ; while in a
similar manner they should decrease in height
at the further end, merging by degrees into
the rising ground beyond. Nothing could
look more unnatural than to come suddenly
from comparatively level and probably rockless
ground upon some bold rockwork which is
there for apparently no reason, and which ceases
equally abruptly and inconsequently. The
same rule applies to all artificial rock gardens ;
avoid anything sudden in the way of rockwork,
but lead up to it gradually, with odd rocks
scattered here and there, increasing in number
as you approach your garden proper. If this
be done it will only be copying nature, which
should always be your guide.

If the space available for working upon be

42 ROCK GARDENS

rather limited, and it is desired to obtain the
utmost possible surface on which to plant, resist
the temptation to make two small valleys in
preference to one large one. This is most im-
portant and one of the most essential points to
be noted, and I cannot impress it too strongly
on the reader ; for in laying out a rock garden,
one of the chief objects is to obtain the boldest
effects the site will permit of. This cannot be
achieved if more is attempted than the space
conveniently allows. If space is available
and it is desired to have two parallel valleys,
they should be at least 20 or 30 yards apart, in
order to allow for planting on the top. The
path should so wind about that it is impossible
to see both ends simultaneously from any
spot. The garden will be far more attractive
and its size apparently very much increased if
we see only a small portion of it at a time, and
if round every corner some fresh attraction can
be provided.

Having laid out the general lie of the main
path, the next procedure is to mark out lines
on either side about 20 feet from it, following
its course throughout, which we will call lines

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 43

of section. Then from the ground, between
the lines of section, the sod must be removed,
skinning it off as thinly as practicable and
stacking in a heap in some spot convenient, but
well out of the way. ‘The next operation is
to begin to dig out the valley. But should the
work be done after the method practised in
railway and other similar cuttings, the top,

and most valuable, soil would become buried

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FIG. I

beneath the almost useless subsoil. Therefore
some other method must be adopted. A
practical way of doing this is to divide the
ground between the lines of section into plots
about ro yards long; each of these will then
measure about 30 feet long by 40 feet wide.
From the first plot remove the top spit to
say a depth of 6 inches, putting it in heaps
(B, B,, fig. 1) on either side, and about 10
yards away. Next, dig out the soil down to
the subsoil, also putting it in heaps (B, B,) on

either side, and about 5 yards from ground

44 ROCK GARDENS

marked out. ‘Thus a cutting will be obtained
(A A) about 40 feet wide, and probably from
12 to 18 inches deep, with all soil of any
value in heaps (B, B,) on either side. But the
banks must be quite 6 feet high, and at least
another 3 feet will have to be sunk in order to
achieve this. In the centre of the excavation
dig a trench (C) about 3 feet deep and g feet
wide, the bottom of which will be the path,
and throw the soil back on either side over
the ground (D) between the heaps (B, B,) and
lines of section. Now cut out the portion
E E, and throw the soil over what has just been
removed from C. This will probably raise the
bank to from 4 to 5 feet above the bottom of
the path, with its sides sloping towards it. At
this stage it is well to work out the general
formation of the banks in the plot being dealt
with ; by this I mean that where it is ultimately
intended to have a long and gentle slope, keep
the subsoil further back and roughly make the
desired gradient, or if a bold and almost per-
pendicular bank is required, work accordingly.
For further particulars with regard to the

formation see page 47.

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 45

Having done this, the second plot is ap-
proached. Remove top spit as before, but the
rest of the soil, down to the subsoil, instead
of being put into a heap, should be thrown
over the two sloping banks of plot 1. Then
proceed to dig out the subsoil as before, again
making the general formation of the banks as
the work proceeds. Plot 3 is dealt with in
a manner similar to plot 2, and so on till the
last plot, when the soil removed from plot 1
and left in a heap (B,) must be put over it.

The result of all this will be a cutting with
sloping banks on either side about 5 to 6 feet
high, with the good soil over the subsoil, and
with heaps of the top and best soil available
for use later on when the time comes to place
the rocks in position.

This method undoubtedly entails consider-
able labour. The only alternative is to treat
the whole in a way similar to that adopted for
plot 1, and after having roughly formed the
banks to throw back the soil removed. This,
of course, has the advantage of saving the labour
of carting the soil from the first to the last plot,

and also it is easier to work out the general

46 ROCK GARDENS

formation of the banks when all excavations
are completed ; but, on the other hand, there is
more labour in throwing the good soil into
heaps and then putting it back again than in
placing it directly over that plot which has
just been dug out. It is, however, a matter of
individual taste which method to choose, and
though perhaps the latter alternative does entail
a little more work, it is the better of the two,
on account of its being easier to lay out the
general scheme when all digging is completed.

I have described these operations rather fully,
as I wish them to serve as a basis for the reader
to work on; but he will, of course, have to
modify them according to the circumstances
of each individual case.

Where, however, there is a natural valley it
may only be necessary to make it a little deeper.
This can easily be done by sinking the centre
path and throwing the soil up on either side,
having first removed the sods, or whatever was
growing on it, for it is essential to have clean
ground to start with. The chief point to look
to when excavating is that the subsoil shall be

in its proper place beneath the upper soil, and

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 47

also that the latter shall be of the greatest
possible depth.

It has been already pointed out that the
course of the valley should wind about consider-
ably. The slopes forming the banks must also
vary as much as possible, in order to avoid pre-
senting a too artificial appearance. In some
places let the bank recede in a gradual slope,
whilst in others a more abrupt formation will
lend a pleasing contrast. Here and there some
flat patches may skirt the path and be almost
on the same level with it; further on they
may be raised considerably above the path level.
These are a few suggestions whereby to break
a stiff and formal outline and give the variety
which should be aimed at. As I said before,
it is far more satisfactory, and will probably in
the end save considerable trouble, if the rough
formation of the banks is made when cutting
out the valley and before the rockwork proper
is commenced. Nothing is more annoying
than to find, when making a hollow in a certain
spot, and when it is nearly completed, that the
subsoil appears, for this entails removing the

good soil for some distance round the spot and

48 ROCK GARDENS

sinking the hollow deeper, with every chance of
leaving it in a form that will retain water—the
last thing to be desired. For these reasons let
the rough scheme be worked out in the initial
stages.

It may perhaps assist the reader and be the
simplest way of showing what is meant by
these variations in the slope of the banks, if I
describe one artificial valley that I know.

This valley is made in a piece of ground
about 85 yards long by 35 yards broad, with a
fall of about 1 foot in 16. Owing to the cir-
cuitous course the valley takes, its actual length
is about 105 yards, with a path varying from
7 feet to 12 feet wide, while the banks on
either side vary from 5 feet to g feet in height.

Particulars of the formation of the right
bank may now be given, beginning from the
lower end of the valley.

For the first 15 yards or so the slopes are
very gradual, but increasing in gradient until
some bold rockwork at A (fig. 2) is reached.
This is almost perpendicular, and is from 8 to
g feet high. Round this the path turns sharply

to the right, and then follows an almost semi-

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 49

circular course to the left for about 15 yards.
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After passing the corner at A, the bank gradu-

ally takes a more gentle slope, receding from
4

50 ROCK GARDENS

the line of the path, thereby forming an almost
level piece of ground at B between the base of
the bank and the path. This continues to
about the centre of the semicircle, when at C
the bank again advances towards the edge of
the path, at the same time increasing its
gradient until, by the time the end of the semi-
circle is reached at D, the slope again reaches
the line of the path. Here it bears rather
sharply to the right and continues to wind on
gently for the next 17 yards, when it takes a
decided bend to the left at E for about 20
yards, then once more curves gently to the
right and gradually dies away towards the
rising ground beyond.

Beyond the rather steep part at D, the bank
by degrees assumes the form of two terraces,
the lower one about 3 feet above the level
of the path, and of a very gentle gradient, while
the upper one is much steeper. This formation
continues until about the point E, when the
terraces once more merge into one bank, with
a gentle gradient, which does not vary very
much for some distance, when it again becomes

steeper as it winds round the curve, after

[Zo face page 50.

Cea eee |

SECOND LINE OF ROCKS IN POSITION.

ROCKWORK ADVANCING UP THE HILL.

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 51

which it gradually dies away into the rising
ground beyond.

If the reader has been able to follow this
description, he will see the necessity of working
out the general scheme of the banks as he
proceeds with his excavations.

There are a few things to be observed
which may help him in deciding where the
level or where the steeper places should be.
It is generally found to be more effective if
the sharper gradients are made on the con-
vex curves, while on the concave are the level
spots and more gentle slopes. The advantage
of this is fairly obvious, for in the former case
the steep rockwork will stand out boldly and
naturally form a corner, while in the latter the
banks form a hollow which lends itself to the
formation of a level spot at their base.

If these ideas are carried out, there will be
no danger of having the same formations
opposite each other on either side of the path,
for where the curve is concave on one side it
follows that it must be convex on the other,
and vice versa.

It will give a pleasing variety if in some

52 ROCK GARDENS

places the valley has the appearance of forming
a gorge, while in others it may pass between
two hills; but even then the steep parts need
not be exactly opposite, for the high ground
can be cut diagonally.

It is only the general outline of the banks
that is being dealt with at present. In the
chapter dealing with the placing of rocks in
position, it will be shown in more detail how
they should be worked up to give that
appearance of natural rockwork which is
to be aimed at.

There is yet another point to be noted
before leaving this type of garden, though,
indeed, it applies generally to all gardens
which have to be artificially dug out. It is
this, when excavations have to be made, always
be careful to get the top soil well away from
where actual work is being done. You will
thus ensure there being plenty of room, if,
as may easily happen, it is found desirable to
slope the top of the bank further back than
had originally been intended. If the good
soil be in the way, extra labour will be entailed

clearing the required space.

ait) AR EIRICIAL,) ROCK) GARDEN 53

The next type of garden is what may be
called the hollow. If it is to be made on the
face of a hill or rising ground, lay out the site
in a manner similar to that adopted in the
case of the valley ; the outline should be as
varied as possible, and be careful to avoid
the appearance of its being marked out with
a compass. Remove sods or whatever may
be growing on it, then take off top soil to a
depth of about 6 inches, putting it in heaps
at a convenient distance from the ground
marked out. After this has been done, dig
out the remaining soil to the subsoil, also
putting it aside. Then continue the excava-
tions, throwing the subsoil removed on to the
ground above until the required depth has
been attained. The banks must not be made
too steep; they should have a general slope
of not more than 1 foot in 4 feet, because
the steeper the formation the more numerous
and the larger are the rocks required. In
places, of course, the slope may be fairly
perpendicular; but even there a gradient of
2 feet in 5 feet is quite enough, and effects
as good, if not better, can be obtained than if

54 ROCK GARDENS

a miniature cliff be constructed. After having
dug out the garden in the rough, the good
soil can be spread over the bank that has
been made, keeping the first 6 inches for use
when making the rockwork.

In this case also it is advisable to work out
the formation of the banks in a general scheme
before commencing to build in the rocks.
Make it as varied as possible—a steep place
here, there a little hollow looking like a tiny
gorge which might at one time have been a
watercourse. In another spot let the slope of
the bank be very gentle, merging into a level
stretch at its foot. Variety should always be
aimed at, and the sequence of formations
should not be repeated.

When deciding on the depth to which the
hollow is to be sunk, always look to the
drainage to see that there will be a good fall
towards the entrance, in order that the water
from the surrounding rocks may be carried off.

This type of garden should always face south,
or as nearly towards that point as possible.

If there is a natural hollow to work on, then

the labour of making the garden is consider-

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 55

ably reduced. All that is required to be done
is to first clear the ground and then to develop
it as far as is deemed necessary, treating it
in much the same way as in the more arti-
ficial type. For a natural hollow merely
means that Nature has already done a certain
amount of the work, and man will have to take
it up where she left off.

Now to deal with the dank and &nol/
types. These, as may be expected, do not
require the same amount of work in the
earlier stages as those types already described,
for, instead of the general formation having to
be made, the outline is already there and only
requires judicious development. If they are
not sufficiently high, this can be rectified by
sinking the ground at the base and raising that
above with the soil dug out, having previously
cleared the ground of whatever was growing
on it. Very probably there will be occasional
and solitary rocks just showing above the sur-
face. Dig round these to ascertain their size
and how they can eventually be worked into
the general scheme of the rockwork. The
banks in gardens of this type are usually

56 ROCK GARDENS

higher than in the case of the valley gardens,
and it will be expedient to make paths over
them ; it will therefore be advisable that their
general lie should be planned out, and the
formation of the banks made in the rough.

The rocky bed requires comparatively little
work in the preparatory stage. It usually is
made on ground that is level or fairly so;
therefore make sure that it can be properly
drained. When the site has been marked out,
making its outline as varied as possible, dig
out the soil to a depth of about 23 feet, and
put in 6 to g inches of broken stones, coarse
first and smaller above, which will facilitate
drainage. At the same time take care that
there isa proper outlet for the water to get
away. The soil can, if necessary, be replaced,
adding more then to bring it to the required
height ; for the top should be quite 3 feet
above the surrounding ground.

In dealing with the /arge garden it is
difficult to give any very definite instructions
for its treatment, as so much depends on the
natural formation of the ground. One of the

more important points is to lay out the garden

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 57

in correct proportions: a most difficult thing
to achieve. Try to avoid having a number
of small and abrupt hills with wide valleys
between, looking like a collection of ant-hills
dotted over the ground. If the valleys are
wide, let the hills be large, not necessarily
high, but covering a good extent of ground.
Three or four, or even two, are quite enough,
rising gradually in long and gentle gradients.
For example, we have two fairly large hills,
each covering about half an acre or more, with
a curving valley about 30 feet wide between
them. As we advance up this valley another
and rather larger hill appears in front, round
the foot of which the valley winds towards
the left, while on the right a miniature pass
crosses the range. These three hills, with the
valley and pass, are quite enough to cover a
couple of acres of ground; any more would
look out of proportion and give a fussy effect,
which should always be avoided. This is
merely a description of the main scheme, for
the hills will need to be broken up and varied
in outline.

As the rockwork is on the higher ground,

58 ROCK GARDENS

the paths leading through it will probably
have to be on almost the same level as the
plants, or at least more nearly so than in the
types of gardens hitherto described. There-
fore, in order to show the plants to advantage,
and to be in keeping with the surroundings,
the rocks should be considerably larger and
the whole scheme worked out on bolder and
broader lines. Where, for instance, in the
valley type, the level spots cover a couple of
square yards or so, three or four times that
extent would be scarcely sufficient here.
Again, when in the former case the bank
rises 6 feet in a distance of as many yards,
here it may take 15 or 20 yards, and the
eventual height from the bottom of the valleys
to the tops of the hills will be anything from
10 feet to 30 feet. The inclines should
always be more gradual than in any of the
gardens thus far noticed. In fact, to put the
whole matter concisely, in the former types
the idea was to copy some small portion of an
alpine scene, while in this it is to produce,
though on a very reduced scale, the scene in

its entirety.

[ Zo face page 58.

NEARING COMPLETION.

THE COMPLETE ROCKWORK,

(Note general dip of stones from right to left. )

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 59

How difficult it is, only those who have
tried can fully realise ; but if it is successful,
amasterpiece of engineering and artistic skill
will have been achieved. ‘There are few who,
on account of expense, could attempt a garden
of this description unless they had ground that
lends itself naturally to it, when it would
perhaps only be necessary to make the valley
or valleys deeper and slightly raise and vary
the heights and contours of the hills. In this
case one need clear only the ground that is
intended to be rockwork, namely, the heights,
unless indeed the valleys are overgrown with
trees or scrub, when it should be thoroughly
cleaned.

As the surface to be planted is so large, and
as it is always necessary to reach all parts
easily and without fear of walking on the
plants, a number of paths will be required.
Not paths in the generally accepted term—
nice gravelled walks with stone edges—but
almost imperceptible ways winding in and
out amongst the boulders, starting from the
main valley up a gentle slope for perhaps a

few yards, then round some large rock and

60 ROCK GARDENS

on, ever gradually rising, through some tiny
gorge, then perhaps a rock-strewn valley,
bending its way round some lesser peaks of the
main hill, till at last the top isreached. Then
let this summit, while bold and conspicuous,
be no mere incongruous mass of piled-up
rocks.

The object of a rock garden is to grow
plants, and the rocks are merely an adjunct,
though an important one, but still only the
means to an end.

So unlimited is the scope for variety in a
garden of this sort, that space will not admit
of the enumeration of all its possibilities, so
much must be left to the reader’s discretion.
Almost every type of garden thus far described
can be worked into it more or less ; the object
being to get the greatest variety of aspect and
formation. 'To him who is in want of ideas
there is no better teacher to go to than Nature.
There is, however, no need to travel all the
way to Switzerland. Let him but study the
rocks and hills at home, and on his return
try to reproduce the formation or scene on a

smaller scale in his garden. More ideas can

THE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 61

be obtained in a day’s walk ina wild and rocky
country than in a week’s reading, and a few
studies of natural rock made with a camera
will prove of untold assistance. The chief
difficulty is found when one comes to try to
reproduce and adapt these pictures on the
reduced scale: such at least has been my
experience.

Those who, undeterred by expense, or the
magnitude of the undertaking, wish to make
such a garden, but have only sloping ground out
of which to form it, will have to dig out the
valleys and raise the hills. ‘To such I should
recommend working on lines somewhat similar
to those laid down for the valley, only, of
course, on a very much larger scale, the valleys
wider in proportion to their depth and the
hills with a more gradual incline. To get the
soil in its proper place and to avoid burying
what is wanted on the top and to distribute it
evenly will be even more difficult than before.
For while alpines require at least 12 inches of
good soil as a general rule, the shrubs in the
valleys require far more, and great ingenuity

will have to be exercised to provide all this.

62 ROCK GARDENS

Keep the very best fibrous loam for the alpines,
because shrubs, though requiring more depth,
are not so particular as to quality. Even if the
soil is mixed with a little subsoil, ‘“‘ weathering ”
will soon improve this and do no harm.

In all artificial rock gardens aim at variety
of outline, but avoid too sudden transitions
from one formation to another. Let the
change be gradual, and always try to make it
look as if there was a reason for it, for such
is invariably the case in nature. Try to
keep the lines of the garden in proper propor-
tion. It is not an easy thing to do, for in
ten yards you must reproduce what in nature
covered ten times that distance ; but as pro-
portion is the keynote to success, it 1s worth
taking considerable trouble to achieve it.

Do not attempt more than the size of the
ground will allow. One good wide valley
looks far better than two narrow ones. There
should always be the feeling of openness and
expanse. Also remember that all-important
point, drainage. Whenever making a hollow
or forming a level plateau, see that there is

no chance of water lodging: this is the stage

HE ARTIFICIAL ROCK GARDEN 63

at which to do it, and not after the rock-
work is finished. It is hardly necessary to say
that the real effect cannot be judged until after
your rocks have been placed in position ; but
please remember that the hills and banks are
not made to grow rocks, but that the rocks
are placed there to keep up the soil in which
the plants are to grow. Without the rocks
the soil on any steep gradient would soon be
washed down, although there is an angle, called
“the angle of repose,” at which soils of every
description will remain stationary. But this
angle is generally of a far more gentle gradient
than is suitable for a rock garden, therefore it
will be necessary to adopt the other alternative
and build the slope up in the form of terraces,
each of which will, in all probability, have
a gradient considerably less acute than the
“‘angle of repose,” and there will, therefore, be
less chance of the soil being washed down by

heavy rains.

CHAPTER V

THE ROCKWORK

Kind of rock to use and what to avoid — Principles of
particular construction—Types of rockwork to avoid
—The placing of individual rocks—Fissures and how
to make them—Strata—Principles of general con-
struction—Paths—Steps—The moraine.

Havine made the garden in the rough, the

next step will be to construct the rockwork,

and the first thing one naturally wants to
ascertain is the best description of rock for this
purpose. On this point there is a diversity of
opinions, but the majority consider that sand-
stone, which has special properties of retaining
moisture, is the best all round, though others
prefer mountain limestone. But almost any kind
will do provided that it has a sufficient variety of
forms, the greater the variety the better for our
purpose. ‘The stone from the nearest quarry

will, generally, be found most desirable, if for
64

| Zo face page 64.

EXAMPLE OF ROCKWORK,

EXAMPLE OF ROCKWORK,

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THE ROCKWORK 65

economical reasons only. Quarried stone will
give more pleasing results, and is easier to build,
the faces of the stones working in better
together than is the case with those rounded
by the action of the weather or water. Some
people indeed object to the freshly hewn rock
as looking too new, but the advantage of
having rocks that will join closely together
more than makes up for this, and a couple of
years will give the desired weather-beaten
appearance.

It is impossible to build rocks with
rounded surfaces properly together, for, being
invariably convex, it follows that on either
side of the point where they touch there must
be a gap, which has to be filled up somehow
or other with small stones. This is seldom
satisfactory, for frost and rain have a marvellous
way of working soil through any opening, no
matter how small.

The rock for building should consist of
solid blocks, with as much variety of surface
as possible, and must have a good base to
rest upon. The area of the base should be
about two-thirds of the surface exposed, and

66 ROCK GARDENS

quite one-third of the rocks should be buried
in the ground ; some people say even as much
as half, but this is rather more than is necessary.
As I have already stated, almost any class of
rock will do ; but avoid anything in the shape
of thin slabs or round boulder stones—the
former because they have an ugly and mono-
tonous face and are difficult to make steady
in the ground, the latter on account of the
difficulties already mentioned in working them
together satisfactorily ; though a few indeed
may be half buried on the summit of a mound
to give the idea of the point of a rock just
appearing over the surface of the ground.
Above all things, avoid anything in the
nature of artificial rock, clinkers, burrs, bricks,
or the like. The bottom of a drain is the only
place for such as these. Equally to be shunned
are old tree stumps or wood in any form, for
it so quickly rots away and promotes the
growth of fungus, which is pretty certain to
kill any plant growing near it. Nothing but
good rough stones should be used. The size
will in a great measure depend on the facilities
for dealing with them, and also on the nature

THE ROCKWORK 67

and size of the garden; the larger the rocks,
the bolder the effects obtained. All sizes can
be used, weighing from a few pounds to a ton
or more. A good building material is about
1§ or 20 rocks to a ton.

Not only do I recommend quarried stone, but
go so far as to say that it should all come, not
only from the same quarry, but even from the
same part of it; for you will then get both a
uniform colour and strata, which will to a great
extent simplify the building and also give the
ultimate rockwork a more natural appearance.
It should never look like a collection of geo-
logical specimens.

The fundamental principle governing the
construction of rockwork is to make the
visible rock appear as if it is merely a part,
and only a small part, of what is hidden by the
soil. To carry out this idea, there must be
uniformity in the arrangement of the strata.
No rock should look isolated, but part and
parcel of those adjoining. If this is carried
out, a very different effect will be obtained from
that found in those so-called rock gardens,

now fortunately becoming less common, which

68 ROCK GARDENS

consist of a mound of earth and a number of
stones. Long, flat, spiky ones are generally
chosen, and stuck up on end like so many
solitary gravestones, without the least connec-
tion one with the other ; in another, though
perhaps less objectionable, form, the stones are
laid flat ; or, in yet another type, a number of
large and ugly boulders are strewn over the
ground, apparently for no special purpose, and
certainly with no sense of cohesion. In none of
these types are the stones of the least use, either
for keeping the soil in position, or for showing
off the alpines planted there. The general result
is that the owners of these gardens, despairing
of ever making them “a thing of beauty ” or
‘“‘a joy for ever,” cover them as best they can
with Ferns, Sedums, Nasturtiums, or anything |
that can be found to quickly hide their ugli-
ness. Mr Reginald Farrar, in his book My
Rock Garden, so aptly designates these forms
as the “almond pudding,” the ‘“ dog’s grave,”
and the “‘ devil’s lapful.”

But bad as the above types are, they are yet
a great advance on that form, remains of which

are still occasionally seen—hideous arches,

THE ROCKWORK 69

grottos, or bridges, without a spot to hold more
than a handful of soil. The constructors of
such atrocities must have thought, if indeed
they were guilty of thinking at all, that alpines
lived on air and stones alone. For nothing
else was provided. It is needless to say no
self-respecting plant would grow under such
conditions. The only remaining hope was
that some friendly ivy would soon cover
their nakedness.

These, then, are some of the most usual forms
to be avoided ; but there are others more or less
on the same lines, all hideous and unnatural.
Why they were ever made will always remain
a mystery. It may be presumed that the
object in view was to grow alpines in a place
somewhat akin to that from which they
originally came. But how was this attempted ?
A home was prepared for them as diametrically
the opposite in every way as human ingenuity
could contrive. The result was a foregone
conclusion. It is only within comparatively
recent years that the more natural and reason-
able method has been adopted, with the result

that success in place of failure has crowned

70 ROCK GARDENS

the efforts of those copying Nature more
faithfully.

Having now pointed out how the rocks
should not be placed, there is no need to dwell
further on the subject, and I will proceed to
show how they may be used to the best
advantage.

There are a few rules that should be
observed in the construction of rockwork.
In the first place, every rock, big or little,
should be made quite firm in the ground ; as
this is often rather loose owing to the bank
having so recently been made, the bed for each
rock should be well trampled in order to get as
solid a foundation as possible and minimise its
chances of moving. The soil also should be
rammed in well around it; for although the
rocks will get firmer in time as they settle, it
is better not to rely too much on this.

Each rock should be sunk for at least one-
third of its height below the surface ; it should
be able to bear the weight of a man without
moving, for it will often be necessary to stand
on the rocks when working in the garden, and

if they should move, considerable, if not fatal,

THE ROCKWORK 71

damage might be done to the plants growing
over and around them. Another advantage
also gained by sinking the rocks is that most
alpines like to get their roots amongst stones.

To all rock plants moisture is most essential,
but at the same time it must be accompanied
by sharp drainage to prevent any water lodging
at the roots. For this reason the top surface
of all rocks should slope down towards the
bank behind, in order that the moisture may
be directed towards the roots of the plants
growing there.

The faces of the rocks should not as a rule
overhang so as to prevent the rain reaching
the ground at their foot, for this would prove
fatal to many kinds of plants. There are
indeed some, especially those species having
woolly leaves, that require some shelter over-
head, for damp lying on their leaves soon kills
them ; but even these require that their roots
be kept moist, which can be achieved by sink-
ing flat stones in such a manner as to catch the
rain from the rock above and direct it to the
roots of the plant.

In the construction of rockwork, more

72 ROCK GARDENS

especially when negotiating the bolder masses,
it may often be found necessary to deal with
spaces, or, to use a more correct term, fissures,
between two rocks. These are of three kinds,
oblique, vertical, and horizontal.

The oblique: fissure looks externally very

Fic. 3.

much the same as the horizontal, the differ-
ence being that in the case of the former
it slopes down towards the back, while the
latter keeps to the same plane. In both of
these it is very important to make sure that
the under rock projects beyond the upper,
otherwise rain falling on the sloping face

of the rock above will miss the fissure

THE ROCKWORK 73

altogether, and whatever is planted in it
will in all probability soon die; for if no
moisture reaches the roots from the front,
they will have to extend 12 inches or
more to the back of the rock before they
obtain any. This is more than most are
capable of doing, certainly in the juvenile
stage, in which they must be planted.

It is necessary to keep the rocks slightly
apart in order to give room for a good layer of
soil between them, and this should be done,
while building the rockwork, by inserting some
pieces of hard stone. The layer of soil should
be filled in before the upper rock is put in
position, so that no air space may be left,
which it may be found very difficult to avoid
later on.

Vertical fissures should, when feasible, be
made wider at the top than the bottom, for
then, as the soil settles, its tendency will be to
compress itself against the sides of the rocks,
instead of leaving them, as would occur were
the shape reversed. Where the fissure is
sufficiently large, wedge-shaped pieces of stone
should be inserted, and care should be taken

74 ROCK GARDENS

to place them in such a way that their thin
ends are uppermost.

The object of placing the stones in this
manner is to separate up the fissure in such
a way that each of the divisions may form an

integral part of the whole and become com-

Vertical Fissure. Vertical Fissure.
Wrong Method of Building. Right Method of Building.

Fic. 4.

pressed as the soil sinks under the action of
the rain and its own weight.

This indeed is the theory on which a
vertical fissure is built. It is, however, in
practice far from easy to carry out with any
degree of success, for it will generally be found
that, no matter how carefully it is made, nor

how tightly the stones are rammed into posi-

THE ROCKWORK 75

tion, a few winters frosts and rains will work
them loose and a quantity of the soil be washed
out, to the great detriment of whatever is
growing in it. This applies chiefly to the
larger fissures, for in the smaller ones the soil
is less likely to be dislodged.

A number of the rarer alpines, however, so
dislike moisture lying about their crown that
they can only be grown successfully in this
type of fissure ; the chief difficulty is to get
the plant well established; but once it is
established, the roots will help to keep the
soil in position and the leaves protect it from
being washed away by the action of the rain.

The oblique and horizontal fissures are, on
the other hand, quite easy to make, and prove
very satisfactory. Of the two the oblique is to
be preferred, as it ensures utilising all available
moisture.

On studying the face of a quarry, it will
be seen that there is a certain uniform grain
or strata running through it; this may vary
greatly in form, and is very much more marked
in some kinds of rock than in others. In

limestone it is very apparent, and in a less

76 ROCK GARDENS

degree in granite or sandstone. Now this
grain should, in a great measure, rule the
construction of the rockwork. When in its
natural position the strata runs in a certain
uniformity ; therefore when building the rock-
work each stone should be so placed that its

grain coincides with that of those next it.

Right Method.
FIG. 5.

Examine carefully the formation of each
rock, and, if its strata is vertical, the rock
adjoining must be the same; if oblique, it
should be built into one having a similar
formation. In this case it is necessary to note
that its dip should continue in the same plane,
as otherwise the lines of grain would meet in
a V shape (fig. 5). If, as is sometimes the

THE ROCKWORK 77

case, a certain amount of “live” rock exists
and it is necessary to add to it, the rocks
added must observe the same “ dip” or forma-

b

tion as the “ live”’ rock.

If these rules be carefully followed, little if
any difficulty should be experienced in building
the rocks into one another. Each will, how-
ever, have to be chosen with some care, in
order that it may correspond both with its
neighbour and also with the general formation
that has been laid out; that is to say, if it is
required to form a corner, the stone chosen
should have one of its faces to correspond with
and be in the same line as the last previously
placed stone, whilst another face will give the
direction in which to continue the rockwork.

Having now dwelt at sufficient length on the
way in which the individual rocks should be
treated, the next thing is to show how to
construct the rockwork in general.

As was pointed out in a previous chapter,
the primary object of the rocks is to keep the
soil in position and prevent it being washed
down the sides of the garden by heavy rains.

The most usual and effective and also the

78 ROCK GARDENS

simplest method of accomplishing this is, with
the help of the rocks, to make the banks into
a series of terraces; at the same time the rock-
work should follow the same line or dip of the
strata throughout.

These terraces should vary in every con-
ceivable manner: height, width, outline, and
gradient. This last is important, for if it is too
steep the moisture will run off too quickly and
not percolate the soil, and if it is too flat the
ground is apt to get sodden. AQ fair gradient,
such as 6 inches in 2 feet, is about right. It
will also be necessary during the construction
to make a number of pockets or compartments
in order to give a variety of aspects, the
advantage of which will be fully appreciated
when the time for planting comes.

In order to avoid getting the terraces in
regular planes, let them, in places, merge into
each other ; perhaps where they join a fresh
one may be started on yet another level.

In the long and gentle gradients the terraces
will naturally be wider and not so deep, very
different from the formation in the bolder and

steeper parts, where each rock almost touches

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THE ROCKWORK 79

that below it. Keep the largest rocks for the
boldest and most perpendicular formation.
Where the banks slope back with a gentle
gradient there should be no hard and defined
line of rockwork along the top to give the
impression of a ridge, but rather they should
recede gradually, with the rocks becoming fewer
and more scattered, until eventually the forma-
tion is lost in the shrubs beyond. On the
other hand, in the bold and precipitous forma-
tion, the top of the rockwork may be abrupt
and well defined, but even in this case the
effect is more pleasing if the ground beyond
rise gradually towards the shrubs forming the
background.

Build up the main rockwork first, keeping
in view the chief object, which is to maintain
the soil in position. Afterwards, if there
appear to be any large extent of ground with-
out rocks, it will be easy to put in a few here
and there to break the monotony, or form a
position for some plant requiring a special
aspect or treatment.

Do not fall into the rather popular error of

imagining that a rock garden must be covered

80 ROCK GARDENS

with rocks: it is a mistake from every point of
view. The cost will be greater, for more rocks
must be used, and the effect be less pleasing.
The rocks should monopolise the ground in
only a few places, as is the case in nature,
and, as a general rule, in the wider terraces
an odd one appearing here and there is quite
sufficient.

In the case of the large garden, where the
shrubs are in the valleys instead of being on the
heights, the rocks should increase in number
as you ascend. They should also become
larger and the construction of the rockwork
bolder as the summit is approached, for this is
how it is in nature.

Once more, let me advise the would-be con-
structor of rockwork to go to that master-
builder, Nature, and study some natural rock
formation ; it will prove of great assistance in
carrying out the directions I have just given.

As a parting word of advice, have some
definite scheme and stick to it. Do not let
the rockwork meander about in an aimless
sort of fashion, but endeavour all through to

carry out some well-defined geological forma-

THE ROCKWORK 81

tion ; if this is done, the extra trouble it entails
will be more than repaid.

Paths are an important and necessary factor
to be considered. The main paths, such as
those that go through the centre of the valley or
across the bank and knoll types, may be from
7 feet to 12 feet wide, and should be well
made. A good surface may be obtained by
laying a foundation of about 4 inches of stones,
broken fairly small, and covering it with
about 2 inches of the finest riddlings from a
stone-crusher. They should be rolled well
together to make them bind properly. The
path should have a decided fall from one
end to the other, in order to ensure efh-
cient drainage of the banks on either side.
This is a point that should be carefully
noted.

It is also very advisable to lay flat stones
throughout the rockwork at convenient dis-
tances apart, in order to facilitate getting at
the plants and to avoid treading on them.

The main paths will require something in
the way of a rocky edging, if only to prevent

the soil from being washed over them from
6

82 ROCK GARDENS

the banks ; but anything the least formal must,
of course, be most carefully avoided.

In order to prevent formality the line of
rocks should be varied as much as possible.
In some places, especially where the construc-
tion of the rockwork is abrupt, they may be
as much as a couple of feet high, while in other
places they need not be more than a couple of
inches above the level of the path.

Steps are often a necessary adjunct, and, if
well made, will prove a very attractive feature.
Here again there must be no formality, nothing
built up with cement. Large flat stones, the
more varied in size and shape the better, may
be just laid on the ground, after it has been
made level and solid, to form the steps. The
commoner Sedums, Saxifrages, Campanulas,
and other dwarf-growing species should be
planted between each of the steps, so that in a
short time but little of them is visible.

In conclusion, when building the rockwork,
make quite certain that the soil is well packed
in behind and between each rock, and that there
is not the least chance of an air space being
left. Myriads of plants have been lost through

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THE ROCKWORK 83

neglecting this apparently unimportant detail.
It must be done in the building stage, for
later on it may be found very difficult, if not
impossible, to do it properly.

Some of the higher-growing alpines would,
if planted in anything like good soil, quickly
succumb to over-feeding. Many of these plants
are found growing in the moraines deposited by
the action of the glaciers, the soil of which
consists chiefly of grit and small stones, with
just a trace of vegetable loam in it. There
some of the rarest alpines will be found
growing in a state of health never arrived at
in this country. For them a special place will
have to be prepared, to supply as nearly as
possible the conditions to which they have
been accustomed. Choose some bank the
drainage of which is ensured, facing south,
about 3 to 4 feet above the level of the
path, and having a gentle gradient of not
more than 1 foot in 16 feet. Remove the
soil to a depth of about 18 inches or 2 feet,
and put a layer of about 4 inches of coarse
stones in the bottom; then about 2 inches

of smaller stones. On top of this place a

84 ROCK GARDENS

layer of fibrous loam or sods, then fill up
with a mixture of stone chips, sand, loam,
peat, and leaf soil, in the proportion of four
parts of chips to one of the other constituents
in equal proportions. For those plants requir-
ing lime, chips of limestone should be added.
The alternative method is to build up
instead of sinking. This can be done with
large blocks of stone, filling up the intervening
space with the required compost. Though
somewhat more expensive to make, it will
probably give better results. ‘The one essen-
tial need of the moraine is drainage of the
most perfect description ; for this reason let it
be fairly high and exposed, when it will also
be less liable to suffer from ground damp.
Many people might imagine that in such a
spot as this plants would suffer greatly from
drought during a dry summer, but this is not
the case, for so well does the stone retain
moisture that even in a dry season the soil a

few inches below the surface remains damp.

CHAPTER VI

THE SOIL

Importance of climate—Best type of soil—Supplying de-
ficiencies in soil—Necessity of loosening ground—
Drainage.

Cumarte has more effect on rock plants than

either soil, aspect, elevation, or any other

natural factor. ‘This may not sound encourag-
ing, for, whatever else we may do, we cannot
control the climate, so all that remains is to
adapt ourselves to, and make the best of,
existing conditions. Perhaps it is just as well
that it is so, for the result would indeed be
curious were we able to secure the amount of
sunshine or rain that each desired. Uncertain
as the climate of the British Isles now is, it
would then be a hundred times more so.

Next to the climate, the soil, as might be

expected, is of the chief importance. But
85

86 ROCK GARDENS

with regard to it we can assist or adapt the
natural soil to meet our needs.

Leaving for the present those plants which
require a special receipt for their nutriment,
as a general rule the majority of alpines
like a cool, deep, light, and gritty soil, rich
in humus, such as a good light fibrous loam.
Anything in the nature of a clay-soil is to be
avoided, for in winter it is liable to get sodden,
owing to its being very difficult to drain effec-
tively, and in summer to bake and crack. It
would be difficult to get anything better than
the top 6 inches or so of an old pasture, if
the soil is of a loamy description.

Unless the soil is naturally very light and
gravelly, sand will have to be mixed with it:
good sharp river sand is the best. Small broken
stones, such as would pass through a 3-inch
riddle, are beneficial. Alpines like, above all
things, to get their roots round and between
stones ; it keeps them cool and damp, as stones
retain moisture much longer than the soil
and are not so easily affected by change of
temperature.

If the garden is of large extent and the

THE SOIL 87

soil is not of a gravelly nature, spread sand
and broken stones over it to the depth of
about 2 inches. This, when well dug in,
about 18 inches deep, ought to give a good
material to work on. Some plants will re-
quire an even lighter mixture, but it can
be prepared for them when they are being
planted.

It is a fallacy, and I fear rather a popular
one, to imagine that alpines do not require
good soil, This may have arisen from the
fact that they are often found, and in a thriv-
ing condition, in places where apparently
other herbage could not exist. To a great
extent this is due to the deep-rooting powers
of the alpines, which enable them to obtain
moisture and nourishment in places where
other species of a more shallow-rooted nature
would soon die.

But although these alpines require and
appreciate a good light soil, anything rich and
heavy is very detrimental, for, if they do not
damp off in wet weather, they will probably
run to leaf so much that the flowers will be

but sparse, and, in addition to this, the foliage

88 ROCK GARDENS

will lose that hard and compact form which
it should have, and which is the joy and pride
of those who are successful in the cultivation
of rock plants.

If the soil be deficient in humus it may be
supplied in the form of leaf-mould, but it
should be old and well decayed.

Many and various are the opinions about
lime-hating and lime-loving plants, but on one
point all are agreed, namely, that some plants,
such as the peat-lovers, will not live if there is
any lime in the soil ; this unfortunately cannot
be eradicated if there naturally, but it is easy
to supply artificially if required; it is clear,
therefore, that a soil free from lime is to be
preferred.

Lime can be supplied either in the form of
old lime-rubbish or well-slaked lime; but in
order to be sure that the latter is quite “‘dead,”’
it should be dug into the ground some weeks
before planting. It is recommended by some
authorities, such as Mr Robinson, that separate
portions of the garden should be prepared for
those plants exclusively requiring lime, or

peat, or so forth, in preference supplying the

THE SOIL 89

necessary ingredients to the individual plant.
This method, while having much to recom-
mend it, has, I think, the disadvantage of rather
restricting one as to the position of certain
plants, irrespective of the suitability of aspect or
how they will work into the general scheme of
planting. On the whole it seems a better plan
to supply each plant, or group of plants, with
whatever they need at the time they are being
put in. This, however, is entirely a matter
of individual taste, so long as each plant gets
what it specially requires. But it will not do
to just put the soil each plant likes round its
roots; there must be sufficient for them to
extend through.

It has been proved by experience that some
plants, although found in nature growing in
soils of a special character, will thrive quite
satisfactorily in ordinary soil; as an example,
most of the Ericas, Rhododendrons, or Azaleas,
which are essentially peat-loving plants, will
thrive quite satisfactorily in good fibrous loam,
provided it has no trace of lime. In fact, the
only exception I know of to the above rule is
that those plants disliking lime will not, as

90 ROCK GARDENS

already mentioned, live if there is any present
in the soil.

There are some plants indeed, and amongst
them some of the most difficult alpines to grow,
that require the very poorest of soil, composed
chiefly of grit and small stones, and to these
anything in the nature of high feeding quickly
proves fatal.

For these the moraine, as described in the
previous chapter, is eminently adapted, ensur-
ing as it does the quick and efficient drainage
so essential to maintaining them in health.

Alpines, even those that are found most
difficult to cultivate in this country, grow freely
in their native habitat, and it is now becom-
ing generally recognised that this condition of
things is due, not so much to the soil as to
the climate, the altitude, rainfall, temperature,
length of growing season, duration of snow,
humidity of the air, etc.

Although the winter in high altitudes is
so much longer and far more severe than is
ever experienced in this country, the alpines
lie dormant during it, nursing their strength
and vigour under a thick blanket of snow,

THE SOIL gt

which keeps them dry and warm and protects
them from sudden changes of temperature or
extremes of cold. When the spring comes
again, melting the snow, they are found ready
to shoot up and adorn those arid slopes with
the glory of their bloom.

How very different are the conditions in
this country, where the winters are made up
of sudden changes, one day dry and warm, the
next bitterly cold, and always the ever-present
damp, which is more fatal than anything else !

Owing to the mild days the plants never
become really dormant, and are, therefore, far
more susceptible to cold than they would be if
they had ceased growing.

As, however, the climate cannot be altered,
all that can be done is to protect those plants
which are most affected by the damp, such as
the Androsaces and other of the woolly-leaved
species. This protection can be obtained by
placing sheets of glass over the plants during
the winter months, say from November to
April, which, though unattractive in appear-
ance, will often save some treasure from
extinction.

92 ROCK GARDENS

Many plants are not only affected by damp
in winter, but also may suffer from drought
in the summer, and generally it will be those
kinds which are found fully exposed to the sun
in their native homes. ‘This may perhaps, to
a certain extent, be accounted for by the differ-
ence of altitude, for there is a theory that the
sun, Owing to the air being so much more
rarefied, does not have the same parching effect
as at a lower level. The only remedy for this
is watering, which in a large garden may prove
rather an arduous task, but is preferable to
losing the plants.

It is also advisable in dry weather to keep
the surface of the ground loose. It is rather a
popular error to imagine that stirring the soil
conduces to evaporation ; the result is quite
the reverse, for by loosening the surface the
capillary action of the soil is encouraged and
moisture is drawn up from below.

A very useful tool for this purpose is the
‘“‘ Baby Bucco,” a miniature form of that very
excellent cultivator, “The Bucco,” so widely
advertised in all gardening papers.

If one comes to analyse it, it will be seen

THE SOIL 93

how impossible it is to supply the climatic
needs of a collection of plants gathered from
all parts of the globe, such as is found in the
modern rock garden, where such extremes as
Mesembryanthemums and Androsaces grow
side by side, the former almost a_ semi-
tropical plant, while the latter comes from
the snowline of the Alps. So it can scarcely
be ja. maatter of .surprise, jf difficulty) 1s
experienced in growing them equally well.
But be the climate what it may, there is one
thing that must always be seen to, and that is
drainage, to which I have so frequently referred,
for damp is more fatal than anything else in
this country.

If the subsoil is of a very open and porous
nature, few drains will be required ; but if, on
the other hand, it is heavy and retentive, the
drainage will need to be most thorough.

In the artificial rock garden, where the
subsoil during primary operations is exposed, it
should be left in a slope, so that there may be
no hollows for the water to lodge in. A few
inches of broken stones over it will greatly
assist the drainage. At the foot of the bank it

94 ROCK GARDENS

is well to make a drain of loose stones which
can run along at the back of the rocks bound-
ing the pathway ; this will act as a main drain,
and other short ones, if thought necessary, can
be made to lead into it. This main drain
should be made in the earlier stages and before
the good soil is filled in.

Although drainage is so very important,
it is a mistake to imagine that it cannot be
overdone, for this is quite possible.

The object to be attained is to direct all
moisture to the roots of the plants, and then
to remove whatever the soil cannot readily
absorb. If this is done the excess of
moisture will not lodge in the ground

and prove fatal to the plants.

CHAPTER VII

THE BOG GARDEN

Position—Natural bog garden—Artificial bog garden—

The stream.
A BoG garden, on any extensive scale at least,
should not be amongst the rockwork, but
should rather adjoin it in such a way that the
approach to the rock garden may lead through
it. But marshy patches of, say, from 5 to 10
square yards in area, here and there through-
out the garden, will be found an additional
attraction, and give scope for a wider range
of plants.

These spots should have a variety of aspects,
some in shade and others in the sun, to suit
the requirements of the different plants ; they
should not have any formal or well-defined
outline, but should merge imperceptibly

from the rockwork. To those who are
95

96 ROCK GARDENS

fortunate enough to have a stream through
their garden the task will be easy, for then
all that is necessary to do is to remove the
soil to a depth of about 3 feet, where these
boggy spots are required, and fill the hollow
so made with about 6 inches of coarse stones, a
little charcoal, and a compost made up of about
equal parts of peat and fibrous loam, with a
little sand and broken stones added. If there
is difficulty in procuring peat, leaf-mould will
do, but peat is to be preferred. ‘The course of
the stream should then be directed in such
a way that it flows through the spots so
prepared ; and in order that the water may
be evenly distributed, it is well to divide up
the stream into several smaller channels, thereby
ensuring the thorough percolation of the soil,
and the maintenance of constant moisture all
over these marshy spots. Sink the bog garden
slightly below the level of the surrounding
ground, in order that it may catch all the
surface moisture from the rockwork adjoining.

As many of these spots as desired can be
made by directing the course of the stream

from, one to \ the. other.) lt vis, howeverwe

THE BOG GARDEN 97

troublesome matter when the stream is so
small that there is not sufficient volume of
water to supply all the boggy patches with the
required amount of moisture, or when it is
liable to dry up in summer ; and still more
dificult when there is no stream at all to
work with. In either of these cases it will be
necessary to prepare these marshy beds in such
a way that the moisture will be retained.

To accomplish this it will be necessary to
make the bottom of the bed fairly water-tight
with either concrete or yellow clay. Of the
two, concrete gives better and more permanent
results.

The directions are fairly simple. Dig out
a hollow about 2 feet 6 inches deep of the
required size and shape.

Over the bottom of it put a layer 4 to 6
inches thick of concrete, about 6 parts of
coarse sand to 1 of cement. At the lower end,
about 13-inch above the level of the bottom,
put a pipe of 1-inch or 14-inch bore; this
should lead into some drain or other means of
carrying off the water, in case it at any time be

thought expedient to run it off from the bog-
7

98 ROCK GARDENS

bed. There will have to be a plug or tap at
the lower end of the pipe, in such a position
that it can be easily got at, and the end which
is in the hollow should be covered with per-
forated zinc to prevent it getting choked.

Having fixed this pipe, build a wall of
concrete, or bricks if preferred, round the sides
of the hollow, about 4 to 6 inches thick, and
about 1o inches high, making sure that the
top of this wall is approximately on the same
level all round.

On the lower side, and about 8 inches from
the bottom, fix a pipe of about 14-inch bore.
This will act as an overflow, and also conduct
the water to the next marshy spot and keep
the water in the hollow at a constant level,
and should have its end covered with per-
forated zinc. This being in position, put a
layer of about 1-inch thick of pure cement
all over the bottom and sides to ensure their
being water-tight.

It is advisable to put on the cement before
the concrece has set very hard, say on the
following day, for it will be found to bind
together better and not be liable to chip off.

[ 70 face page 98.

‘NHGUYVS MOO S MOHLAV NI NHGuYvd DO

THE BOG GARDEN 99

It should then be left for several days to
thoroughly set, when it can be tested by filling
up with water, which should rise to within
about 2 inches of the top of the wall and give
a depth of about 8 inches. [ff all is found satis-
factory, empty by means of the bottom pipe.
Now put in a layer about 6 inches deep of
fairly large stones, brick-bats, or any coarse
rubbish, to act as drainage; over these place
a layer of sods, with the grass sides next the
stones. When doing this make sure that the
end of the overflow pipe is quite clear and that
the water can easily get to it. Having made
all secure, now fill in with a compost of peat,
leaf-mould, fibrous loam, sand, and broken
stones in the same proportions that were given
in the beginning of this chapter.

If these directions have been carried out, you
will have a small (underground) pond with the
water kept at a constant level just over the sods
covering the drainage. The capillary attraction
of the soil will draw the moisture up and keep
it constantly damp. If the water to supply
these marshy beds has to be brought in pipes,
they should have a tap, so that the flow may

100 ROCK GARDENS

be regulated. It is scarcely necessary to
mention that every trace of cement and all pipes
or taps should be hidden from view by either
soil, stones, or plants. When circumstances
will permit, it is advisable to have a constant
flow of water through these beds; and although
this be but a mere dribble, say 10 to 15 gallons
per diem, it will be sufficient to keep the water
from becoming sour or stagnant.

If the supply pipe is arranged so that it
reaches the bottom of the bed, it will ensure
the water being constantly changed.

If it is desired to make the bottom of the
bed of yellow clay, the same directions will
have to be followed, except that it will be
necessary to puddle in about 6 inches of
yellow clay instead of the concrete; but
neither so water-tight nor lasting a result may
be expected.

If it is wished to make a bog garden on a
scale larger than that just described, and the
water supply for it is limited, a concrete basin
should be made, following the directions already
given. Owing, however, to the expense and
the difficulty of getting the levels correct, it is

THE BOG GARDEN IOI

not advisable to attempt a bog garden of this
description of over 150 or 200 square yards
i area.

But where there is a stream, provided the
volume of water is sufficient, there is nothing
to limit the size of the garden. It will be
necessary, of course, to spread the water from
the stream over the bog garden in such a way
that it can reach all parts; and as in all proba-
bility the proposed site is not level, the simplest
and most efficacious method is to cut small
channels running from the:stream on either
side, in the way the farmer irrigates his fields.
This method has also the advantage that the
moisture can be regulated at will. Another
plan, if the channels are considered unsightly,
is to lay pipes with a number of holes bored
in them a couple of inches below the surface
of the ground and connected with the stream.
The great disadvantage of this method is that
the pipes are so liable to become choked with
mud or leaves.

The surface of the bog garden should not
be flat; undulating or, more correctly speaking,

uneven ground is much to be preferred. This

102 ROCK GARDENS

will give different degrees of moisture, which
will be found most useful, for all plants do not
need the same amount. In the hollows can be
planted those kinds that require a wet soil,
while the higher-lying ground can be reserved
for those preferring a drier position. If desired,
a pool here and there can be made, and a very
charming and attractive addition to the garden
these will be, if judiciously placed. ‘They can
be made of either concrete or yellow clay. In
either case it will be necessary to edge these
patches of water with stones or plants, in order
to avoid the possibility of any formal outline,
and, needless to say, all concrete must be carefully
hidden from view.

Should the garden be of any considerable
size, it will not be feasible to fill it up with any
specially prepared compost, such as was recom-
mended for the smaller bog beds ; nor indeed is
it necessary, for the majority of bog plants, and
certainly the coarser-growing ones, are quite
happy in any cool, rich, and moist soil ; but in
places the ground should be prepared for those
which are more delicate or fastidious in their

tastes. These spots may be of peat or other

THE BOG GARDEN 103

compost, according to the requirements of the
future inhabitants.

As the soil of the bog garden in general
needs to be richer and heavier and to contain
more vegetable matter than does that of the rock
garden proper, some old manure, leaf-mould,
and peat can be dug into it with advantage,
after the surface has been thoroughly cleaned.
The reader should note most particularly the
necessity of getting the ground perfectly clean,
for nowhere do weeds grow so rampant or
increase and multiply with the same extra-
ordinary rapidity as they do in the bog
garden. If the ground be not clean and free
from weeds to start with, the rightful denizens
will have but a poor chance in the struggle
for existence, so let no trouble be spared nor
time grudged in the preparation of the garden,
for if properly done the extra trouble expended
will be more than repaid.

A few stones half buried may be placed in
the bog garden, more especially on the higher
and drier spots, for many bog plants like to get
their roots under and around them, just as do

their neighbours in the rock garden.

104. ROCK GARDENS

Whatever paths are required should be
made of flat stones in the form of stepping
stones.

The bog garden should be made in such a
position that part of it is exposed to the full
sun, while part is in shade, to suit the require-
ments of the different plants. This can be
done, either by planting the edge with bamboos
or similar suitable and fairly tall-growing plants,
or by making part of the garden in the shade
of some higher-lying ground.

As has been mentioned earlier in this chapter,
a bog garden of any size should not appear
amongst the rockwork, but may adjoin it, A
very suitable place is at the foot of the rock-
work in the hollow or bank types. Or, in the
case of the valley, the approach to the main
walk may be through the bog garden.

These are merely suggestions, and individual
taste and skill will need to be exercised as to
where the bog garden would look most natural
and work best into the general scheme of the
rock garden.

Another point that must be taken into con-

sideration before fixing on the site is the water

THE BOG GARDEN 105

supply, which should be brought by the easiest
and most direct route possible, and care must
be taken that the overflow can be readily
disposed of. Fortunate indeed are those people
who have a stream, no matter how small, run-
ning through their garden, or are able to
conduct one to it. My advice is to have one,
if it is at all feasible, for it is the means of
adding enormously to the charm of the garden
and of considerably extending the range of
plants possible to cultivate. If the rock garden
is of either the hollow or hill types, the stream
may be brought down the face of the rock-
work in a series of little cascades into a pool
at the foot. The ground on either side should
slope gently towards its course.

The banks of the stream, at least so much of
them as are affected by the water, should be
made of fairly large rocks to prevent its en-
croaching or washing them away. ‘These
rocks, it is scarcely necessary to say, should not
be placed in the form of a straight wall; the
stream should be made to wind about, for it
will then look so much better. The bottom
of the stream should be paved with flat stones,

106 ROCK GARDENS

otherwise the soil will be liable to be washed
down, especially in time of heavy rains.

If the rock garden is of the valley type, the
stream can be brought beside the central path,
first on one side and then on the other, in order
to provide places for planting, both in sun and
also in shade. The stream should wind about
considerably, and not follow the exact line of
the path.

The possibilities of variety are endless, though
they must depend greatly on the circumstances
of each case. While a stream is a good servant,
it is a bad master. If provision is not made,
great damage may be done by it in time of
flood. It should be possible, therefore, to
control the volume of water in some way:
This can be simply done. Build a wall across
the stream at the point where it enters the
garden, and in this wall make a hole of such a
size that no more than the maximum amount
of water conducive to the safety of the garden
can come through at a time. As this hole
will in all probability not be large enough to
carry off all the water when the stream is in

flood, a cutting should be made to take away

THE BOG GARDEN 107

the overflow and prevent the risk of flooding
the rock garden. The bottom of this control-
ling hole should be made a foot or more above
the bed of the stream, in such a way that the
wall below this hole will act as a dam. The
advantage of constructing it in this way is that
the sand and mud washed down by heavy rains
will be checked at the wall and not carried
down into the garden.

This accumulation of sand and mud must be
cleared out periodically, otherwise the dam will

cease to be of any benefit.

CHAPTER VIII

THE WILD AND WATER GARDENS

The wild garden—Treatment—List of plants suitable—T he
water garden—T reatment—List of plants suitable.
Tue wild garden has frequently been re-
ferred to in previous chapters, so a few words
upon how best to deal with it may be found
useful. As may be supposed, there is no mak-
ing in a garden of this description ; all that is
needed is to plant with discretion and judg-
ment. That the secret of obtaining effect is
to plant in bold masses has already been
pointed out; and important as this is in
the artificial garden, it is. many times
more so in the case of the wild garden.
Whereas in the former type the available
space is more or less limited, in the latter
case the ground is not so curtailed ;_ therefore,

in order to be in keeping with the surround-
108

————

Se SO

Sew

>

THE WILD AND WATER GARDENS to09

ings, the planting should be done on very
bold lines.

It is a great mistake to imagine that only
so-called wild-flowers are suitable for the wild
garden; many of those species now found
in the herbaceous border or enclosed garden
would not only look better, but also grow
more luxuriantly when introduced into wilder
surroundings. Another advantage to be derived
from a garden of this sort is that one is enabled
to cultivate in it a number of lovely plants
which, on account of either their undue vigour
or encroaching habit, cannot be associated with
choicer and more delicate species. For these
the wild garden is the fitting home, in which
the full value of their beauty can be obtained.
In short, any species of plant can be used, so
long as it is strong enough to take care of
itself without the attention of the gardener.

Every spot should be planted. The ground
under trees may be carpeted with the lovely
Wood Anemones, Trilliums, Cypripediums,
Cyclamens, Snowdrops, Dielytras, Ferns, and a
host of others ; while by the margins of streams

or in damp meadows the Caltha, Trollius, many

IIO ROCK GARDENS

species of Primula, Ranunculus, etc., should
find a congenial home, and in any grassy spot
may be planted Narcissus, Daffodils, Crocus, and
other bulbous plants. The Genistas, Cistus,
Helianthemums can be used to cover dry and
stony banks. In short, whether it be under
trees or in the open glade, on margins of a
stream or on sunburnt slopes, there is no spot
that should not be fully planted.

When the approach to the rock garden 1s
through an open glade or fairly exposed bank,
no more suitable plants can be found than
those of the Heath family, which should be
grown in bold masses, and will indeed make
an ideal setting for a home of alpine treasures.
The best kinds for this purpose are Erica
arborea, Codonoides mediterranea, which grow
from 3 to 8 feet high. The dwarfer kinds
are Erica carnea, carnea alba, ciliaris, cinerea,
tetralix, vagans, vagans alba, vulgaris.

The large rocks and trees may be covered
with many kinds of Roses, the numerous
hybrids of the wichuriana type, the Polyantha
and Wild Roses, also Clematis, Vitis, Lonicera
(Honeysuckle), and such-like. When rearrang-

ee eee

THE WILD AND WATER GARDENS 111

ing the herbaceous border in the spring or
autumn and dividing up the clumps of plants,
instead of assigning the pieces taken off to
the rubbish-heap, let them be planted in the
adjacent woodland, which will shortly and with
no expense be converted into a garden that
will vie with, if not excel in beauty its more
formal prototype.

The following is a selection of plants
specially adapted for the wild garden :—

Achillea Eupatorium.

A. millefolium rosea.

Ae °Ptarmica.

Aconitums, in variety.

Anemone apennina.

A. blanda.

A. nemorosa.

A. japonica, in variety.

A. sylvestris.

Aquilegias (Columbines).

Asphodelus luteus.

Asters, in variety ; any of the taller-growing
species are excellent.

Astilbe, in variety.

Caltha.

Campanula celtidifolia.

112 ROCK GARDENS

C. persiciflora Moorheimi.

Cardamine trifolia.

Crocus, Cypripedium spectabile and calceolus.

Delphiniums, Daffodils.

Dictamnus, in variety.

Dielytra spectabilis.

Digitalis (Foxglove).

Doronicum excelsium.

Dracocephalum virginicum.

Echinacea purpurea.

Echinops exaltatus and giganteus.

Epilobium angustifolium, and other varieties.

Epimedium, in variety.

Erodium Manescavi, and other varieties.

Eryngium giganteum, planum, and other
varieties.

Euphorbia polychroma and Lathyrus.

Geranium, armenium, sanguineum.

Heleniums, in variety.

Helianthus: Miss Mellish, giganteus, multi-
florus, and others.

Helleborus (Christmas Rose).

Iris, in variety.

Lobelia cardinalis, Queen Victoria, and others.

Mimulus.

Monarda.

Montbretia, in variety.

Myosotis (Forget-me-not) palustris, sylvatica.

THE WILD AND WATER GARDENS 113

GEnothera Lamarckiana, macrocarpa and
speciosa.

Papaver orientale, in variety.

Pceonies, in variety ; these look very well planted
in grass.

Polemonium, in variety.

Polygonatum (Solomon’s Seal).

Primula cashmiriana, Japonica, in variety ;
sikkimensis.

Ranunculus aconitifolius, speciosus.

Sanguinaria canadensis.

Saxifraga peltata and megasea.

Senecio, in variety.

Spireas in variety are excellent subjects for
shady or damp positions.

Symphytum caucasicum, Bohemicum.

Telekia speciosa.

Tradescantia.

Trillium grandiflorum.

Trollius, in variety.

Veratrum album and luteo-virides.

Verbascum olympicum (Mullein), and other
varieties.

THe WatTeR GARDEN

Fortunate indeed are those people who

possess some pond or lake on the margins
8

114 ROCK GARDENS

of which they can carry out some water
gardening.

These margins should be always left in their
natural state, provided, of course, the pond has
not been made artificially, in which case it
may be necessary to break the outline, for
anything formal should be carefully guarded
against. It will be necessary to have access to
the plants which are grown on the margins,
and as these latter, in all probability, are soft
and boggy for some distance from the water-
line, some sort of path will have to be made.
Where a firm bottom can be found, this may
be done by laying down some rough ballast,
ramming it well in and then placing flat stones
over it. But where the ground is too soft,
a good foundation can be obtained by laying
brushwood tied in bundles or by driving piles
into the ground.

It is scarcely necessary to emphasise the
fact that these paths must be in no way
formal ; they should meander through rushes,
sedges, and other plants growing on the
margins.

As before, plant in bold masses to get the

[Zo face page 114,

(‘u0yYySnorg saajaq sayy Aq
“NGGUVS WALVYM

‘ojo q)

THE WILD AND WATER GARDENS 115

best effect. The following are a few of the
best species for this purpose :—

Acorus calamus and gramineus variegatus.

Alisma natans, and plantago; will grow in
shallow water.

Aponogeton distachyon ; will grow in shallow
water.

Brasenia peltata; will grow in_ shallow
water.

Calla palustris. These Arum Lilies can be
grown in water 3 to 4 feet deep, but are
not very hardy.

Caltha, in variety; boggy, moist ground or
shallow water.

Cyperus longus; shallow water or boggy
ground.

Gunnera manicata; grows very large, moist
ground.

Gunnera scabra ; moist ground.

Heracleum giganteum and mantegazzianeum ;
for wet margins.

Hottonia palustris (Water Violet) ; for shallow
water.

Hydrocharis Morsus-rane.

Iris Pseudacorus, sibirica ; levigata.

Menyanthes trifoliata (Bog Bean).

Nymphia (Water Lilies).

116 ROCK GARDENS

Polygonum amphibium and Sieboldi ; sacha-
linense.

Pontederia cordata.

Sagittaria japonica, fl. pl., sagittifolia variabilis.

Thalictrum flavum.

Bamboos, in variety.

Zizania latifolia.

CHAPTER IX

THE WALL GARDEN
Position and T ypes—Building—Beautifying the old wall.

Wuere shall I make my wall garden? This
may appear a difficult problem at first, but
perhaps the answer may be easy. Make it
just where it is most needed. Wherever
there has been levelling for lawn or garden,
banks will be found of, perhaps, some height.
These may not have been laid in grass, owing
to the trouble and expense of keeping them
constantly mown, and they may be easily
clothed in a way more attractive than the
usual carpeting of ivy or periwinkle. This
is just the place for a wall garden, and if it be
made here a double purpose will be achieved,
for the wall will give a support to the bank,

and in a short time, when covered with masses
117

118 ROCK GARDENS

of rock plants, will prove a very attractive
addition to the landscape.

But it is not only as a support, or retaining
wall, as it might more correctly be called,
that a wall garden can be made ; for by build-
ing what is known as a dry wall (which is in
fact a wall without mortar), a very effective
division can be made in a garden or elsewhere,
which can soon be turned into a home for rock
and alpine plants. Nor is it only in walls
built specially for the purpose of growing this
type of plant that they can be cultivated. Many
old walls—the older the better—which are now
but an eyesore, can with very little care and
trouble be converted into a veritable garden
that for many months of the year will be a
blaze of colour. Unlike most other gardens,
these, when once properly established, will
practically look after themselves and require
but little further attention.

It will surprise many people that not only
will they be able to grow a great variety of
plants in the wall garden, but they will be
able to cultivate there, with comparative ease,
some kinds acknowledged to be amongst the

THE WALL GARDEN 119

most difficult to keep in the rock garden
proper. Nor is the reason difficult to find,
for in the wall there is the perfect drainage,
and there is not the same risk of loss
from excessive damp, which more often than
anything else proves fatal to alpines in this
country. The chief and only difficulty con-
nected with wall gardening is that of establish-
ing the plants. If planted after the wall is
finished, they can only be very small and
therefore young; for they will have to be
inserted in the narrow crevices between the
stones, often no easy task to accomplish, and,
having to be so young, they are more liable to
be affected by the vicissitudes of temperature
than would the older and _ better-matured
plants. For these reasons it will be found
advisable, when at all practicable, to plant as
the building proceeds. Larger and stronger
plants can then be used, and their roots can be
properly spread out and encouraged to pene-
trate into the cooler mass of soil behind the
stones forming the wall. This will render
them far less liable to suffer from drought.
Although this method of building the retain-

120 ROCK GARDENS

ing wall is very similar to that used in the
construction of the division wall, I think it
would be better to deal with each separately,
and afterwards I will show what can be done
to metamorphose the old wall.

The main principle underlying the construc-
tion of retaining walls made for the purpose
of growing rock plants is to place the stones
in such a way that all available moisture be
directed back towards their roots. For this
reason, and also because additional strength
will be obtained, the walls should not be built
perpendicular, but should rather slope back
from the foot at say an angle of 60 degrees.
Fairly flat stones may be used, and it will
simplify the building if they be of much the
same thickness, for then the “courses” will
work in evenly. These stones should be firmly
fixed and should all slope down towards the
back. The lower stone should slightly
protrude beyond that immediately above it, in
order to catch the rain falling from it. No
mortar should be used, but soil only, and not
very much of that—just a sprinkling between
each course of from $ to } inch thick; if

[ Zo face page 120.

GARDEN, MOUNT USHER.

WALL

OF

PART

(Photo. by Mrs Delves Broughton. )

CREA Vr oe es

THE WALL GARDEN 121

more soil were used it would be liable to be
washed out by heavy rain. Pieces of slate
may be inserted between the stones, and provide
a little room to plant in, and also to take off
undue pressure on the plants. As has been
said earlier in this chapter, it is advisable, when
possible, to insert the plants as the building
proceeds, for larger plants can thereby be used
and their roots properly spread out, and also
the chances of leaving vacant spaces behind
them, which is so often the cause of plants
unaccountably dying, will be reduced to a
minimum.

The advantages of planting at this stage can
only be fully realised by those who have spent
many and weary hours, both trying to the
temper and not unfrequently most painful
and damaging to the skin of the knuckles,
endeavouring to insert the delicate and
obstinate roots of alpines into chinks where
they did not wish to go.

So, having laid a course of stones, put a
sprinkling of soil over them ; then the plants,
spreading the roots out well ; then a little more

soil, making sure that all the crevices are well

122 ROCK GARDENS

filled, and on top another course of stones, and
so on till the desired height is reached.

Where a dry wall, which is also to act as
a dividing wall, is required, it must be built
hollow in the centre, to allow for the soil
which is needed for the plants,

Both sides of the wall should slope back
from the foot at an angle of 80 degrees, and
there should be at least a foot of soil in the
centre. A wall of say 6 feet high and 2 feet
thick at the top would require a base of 4 feet
6 inches wide, allowing for the stones being
about 12 inches long (fig. 6). This wall

THE WALL GARDEN 123

should be built in exactly the same way as
described for the retaining wall, and the stones
must slope back so as to catch the rain.

It will be found a good plan if about
6 inches of stones are laid in the bottom of
the wall to act as a drain, and this will also
reduce the chances of heavy rain affecting its
stability.

In this case also it is advisable, when cir-
cumstances permit, that the planting be done
simultaneously with the building. The soil
in the centre should be filled in as the stone-
work progresses, and should be well rammed
home and made solid.

We now come to the old wall’ which
requires beautifying ; and the older it is the
better, so long as there is no danger of its
collapsing and thereby burying our treasures
or ourselves in its ruins.

The first thing to do is to open up as many
holes in its face as is consistent with its stability.
In the bottom of these holes it is a good
plan to place pieces of slate or flat stones,
tipped up in front and slightly protruding, say

about 4 to + inch, in order to catch the rain ;

124 ROCK GARDENS

these may be, if necessary, made secure by a
little cement or mortar, which, however, should
not be visible. Into the holes thus prepared
a compost made up of finely sifted loam, leaf-
mould, and a little sand should be packed, every
care being taken that all nooks and crannies
are well filled and that no empty spaces are
left.

The top of the wall will most probably be
covered with grass and weeds. This should
all be carefully removed, and then as many
pockets as possible made, using, as described
above, pieces of slate or stone to keep the soil
in position. It is well, when making the
pockets in the face of the wall, to vary their
position as much as possible. By this I mean
avoid having the protruding stones immediately
one above the other, for the rain will be pre-
vented from reaching the lower one, a state of
things that should be carefully avoided. One
of the chief difficulties to contend with in wall
gardening is the liability of the plants to suffer
from drought when young and tender and be-
fore their roots have had time to work back
into the cooler regions behind. As the space

THE WALL GARDEN 125

available for planting is generally so small and
cramped that it is necessary to use very tiny
plants, which will often be found difficult to
establish, it is advisable to use seed. There is
then a better chance of the seedlings establish-
ing themselves, for they will not at any time
suffer from disturbance. One method which
will be found particularly useful when dealing
with some very tiny crevice is to mix the seed
and soil into a sort of paste, which can be
worked into the required spot.

As the aspect of the wall must unavoidably
be governed by the circumstances of the case,
all that can be done is to adapt the plants to
suit the situation ; if in shade, plant with those
preferring a shady home, and vice versa.

A list will be found in Part II. giving
the names of plants best suited either for sun

or shade.

CHAPTER X

PROPAGATION

Propagation by seed—By division and cuttings—Methods
of raising from seed — Methods of propagation by
division—By cuttings—By layers.

Many alpines when in cultivation enjoy at
the most but a short life ; in some cases not
more than five to eight years. Whether it is
the same in nature is for obvious reasons
difficult to say, but the fact remains that plants
will have to be frequently renewed. It is
therefore advisable to keep a stock at hand to
meet the deficiencies.

There are four ways of propagating
alpines, namely, by seed, division, cuttings,
and layers.

Reproduction from seed is in some ways the
best. It ensures healthy and vigorous plants,

which, being more acclimatised, are therefore
126

PROPAGATION 127

more likely to thrive than would be the case
if propagated by any of the other methods.
Seed also provides the only means of raising a
new variety and of improving a freshly im-
ported strain. But, on the other hand, unless
artificially fertilised, the results from seeds are
often disappointing, for, in place of being an
improvement, they frequently turn out to be
only very inferior copies of the parent plant.
This is due to cross-fertilisation, especially
noticeable in the case of Aubrietias, Aquilegias,
and many of the Saxifraga family. Neverthe-
less, many species do come quite true, a great
deal, of course, depending on whether there
are varieties of the same species grown sufh-
ciently close for bees to carry their pollen from
one to the other. Another disadvantage in
raising plants from seed is that they often take
two or even three years before they flower ;
indeed, the seeds of some kinds take as long as
eighteen months, or even more, to germinate
at all. During this time the seed-pans need
to be carefully looked after and kept free from
weeds and that arch-enemy, Marchantia ; to

say nothing of the trouble and difficulty of

128 ROCK GARDENS

judicious watering, neither letting soil get too
dry nor keeping it too moist.

Propagation by division or cuttings, when
possible, is on the whole preferable, for the
plants are then sure to be true and reach
maturity much sooner. As this method, how-
ever, can only apply when one either possesses
or has access to a plant from which to take
the pieces or cuttings, and when it is possible
to pot them up soon after being removed from
the parent plant, it would not be feasible
when collecting abroad, in which case try
to get seeds and raise plants from them.
There are some kinds, indeed, though not
many, which will neither admit of division
nor grow readily from cuttings: for example,
many of the Aquilegias family ; these can
therefore only be raised from seed. In grow-
ing alpines from seed, the secret of success
lies in procuring fresh seed that will germinate
readily, and also yield a much larger per-
centage of plants. In order to ensure its
being fresh, when possible save the seed your-
self. Therefore look out carefully for seed,
especially in the case of the rarer kinds. Often

PROPAGATION 129

the first intimation that is given of fertile
seed having ripened is the finding of small
seedlings round the parent plant. It isa great
mistake to be in a hurry to remove the flower-
heads as soon as they are withered, and, more-
over, the seed-pods are in many cases nearly as
ornamental as the flowers themselves. At the
same time it is well to exercise discretion, for
the seedlings from some plants may prove as
troublesome as any weed.

Having gathered the ripe seed, sow at once.
Nature sows her seed as soon as it is ripe;
why should we imagine we know better and
lay it aside for several months?

Seeds may be sown in the open or in pots,
but many species of plants do not ripen their
seeds till late in the autumn, and these should
be sown in pots and wintered in a frame or
cold-house. In any case I should recommend
this treatment for any of the rarer species.
The best time to sow in the open is in
April, but seeds may be put in any time from
April to August. So, should seeds come to
hand during the summer months, it is better to

sow at once rather than to keep them over for
9

130 ROCK GARDENS

the following spring, for then a whole season’s
growth is gained. Even if sown as late as
the beginning of August, the seedling ought
to be strong enough to take care of itself
during the winter. Yet it is not advisable to
sow in the open so late in the season except
in the case of seed from plants of a hardy
nature, which germinates quickly.

The seed-bed, which should not be more
than 4 feet wide, will require to be carefully
prepared, in some warm but sheltered position.
Dig the soil well to a depth of 8 inches,
making it as friable as possible; clean the
ground well, removing all weeds and large
stones, and, if not naturally light, add plenty
of sand and leaf-mould. Over this put a
layer about 4 inches thick of a good light
compost made up of loam, leaf-mould, sand,
and refuse from the potting bench. This
mixture should be all put through a 4-
inch riddle. Now level the surface of the
bed, which will be ready for the seeds.
Choose a day for sowing in calm, mild, and
open weather, when the ground is rather

dry and in good friable condition. Make

PROPAGATION 131

little drills across the bed about 6 inches
apart. These should not be made with a
hoe or similar tool, but get a piece of straight
stick about 14 inch wide, and, laying it
on the ground, press it gently down till it
leaves an even and smooth hollow about an
inch deep. This will give a good firm bed
for the seeds. Therein sow the seeds as
evenly and thinly as_ possible, and cover
sparingly with some good light soil put
through a ;4,-inch riddle. In many cases
the merest sprinkling will suffice, for seeds
should only be covered to a depth about
equal to their diameter.

Nothing more need be done except to
keep down weeds and see that the beds do
not get too dry; but watering will have
to be done very carefully and with a very
fine rose, otherwise the ground will become
baked and hard. Watering should be limited
as much as possible, and, in order to pre-
vent undue evaporation, the beds should be
protected from hot sun. It is a good
plan to put a little cocoanut fibre between

the drills, which will help to keep the

132 ROCK GARDENS

ground damp and lessen the chances of its
getting baked. The seedlings may be left
where sown until they are fit to transplant
to their final habitat. In the stronger-
growing kinds, if they come up too quickly,
a little thinning can be done with advantage ;
but care should be taken not to disturb the
roots of those that are to remain.

In this way many of the best rock plants
may be raised. They have this advantage
over those sown in pots, that they are less
liable to suffer from the vicissitudes of
temperature, nor do they receive any check
when being pricked out. But do not imagine
that your bed of seedlings is free from all
dangers, for sooner or later hungry slugs
will find them out during their midnight
forays, and then woe betide them, for untold
havoc will be wrought before you visit in
the morning what was the night before the
pride and joy of your heart. There is one
thing, however, no slug or snail will cross,
and that is zinc... So get a sheet of zinc
and cut it into strips about 3 inches wide,

and after the seeds are sown put this all

PROPAGATION 133

round the bed, thereby making a rampart
which, from the slug’s point of view at
least, is impregnable.

I never sow, nor would I recommend other
people to risk sowing, the rarest or finest
seeds in the open air when they come to
hand at a time unsuitable for sowing out of
doors, such as the late autumn. But as
they should be sown at once, it is advisable
to use pots which can be put in a frame or
cold-house.

In this treatment there are two great
difficulties to contend with, namely, the
growth of Marchantia, and keeping the pots
at an even degree of moisture.

With regard to the first, there are several
ways of preventing its growth. ‘The best and
surest means is to bake the soil thoroughly
and use nothing but boiled water. This is
an absolute preventative, but entails rather
more trouble than most people would care
for.

Another way is, to prepare the pots for
sowing, and then to water them thoroughly
with boiling water—but it must be boiling

134 ROCK GARDENS

—and then leave them for a day or more
before using. This will destroy most of the
seeds and spores of weeds and kill all worms
and insects, which is no little advantage.
For subsequent waterings use nothing but
boiled water. If neither of these plans is
adopted, the only course left is to pick off
every particle of the Marchantia as soon
as it appears, which is by no means easy
to do without disturbing the seed or young
plants, and will entail considerable labour
if there are a large number of pots to look
after.

It is most essential to keep the soil at
the proper degree of moisture, which is not
at all easy to accomplish, and will require
constant attention. Nothing proves more
fatal to seeds than to allow the soil to
become dust-dry ; while, on the other hand,
if it is kept too moist, the seeds are very liable
to rot away. Above all, avoid alternate
conditions of wet and dry. For, germina-
tion having once commenced, if the soil is
subsequently allowed to dry up, the seeds

will be irrevocably destroyed.

PROPAGATION 135

Watering overhead is all right in the case
of seeds that germinate fairly quickly, say
in a month or two; but not when, as is the
case with some, it will take twelve or even
eighteen months before any signs of life are
visible. Under such circumstances it is very
dificult to prevent the surface getting hard
and baked, when the pots will not “take the
water.” So, for all seeds which are slow in
germinating, I should advise not watering
from overhead, but supplying the moisture
from below. This may be done by placing
the pots in a saucer of water, when the capil-
lary attraction of the soil will draw it up,
and if there is plenty of drainage in the pots,
as there should always be, there is no danger
of the soil becoming water-logged. Personally,
I am trying another method, which so far
seems quite satisfactory, and will, I hope,
still further reduce the attention required.
As perhaps my readers may care to try it for
themselves, I will explain my system. Into
one of my small two-light frames, 6 feet by
4 feet, I put a wooden partition down the
centre from back to front. In one of these

136 ROCK GARDENS

divisions I fixed a lead trough or tray, com-
pletely filling the bottom. ‘This tray, which
is filled with water, is therefore 4 feet by 3
feet, and about 4 inches deep. An inch pipe
connected with the tray goes through a hole
cut in the back of the frame, and protrudes
about 24 inches beyond the woodwork. By
means of this pipe it can be seen at a glance
what amount of water is in the trough, and,
through it, more can be added if necessary.
When I had ascertained that the trough was
quite level, which can easily be done by filling
with water, I placed perforated zinc all over
it, about 2 inches from the bottom. The zinc
I kept in position by resting it on some flat
tiles about 2 inches thick. Over this I put
small stones to a depth of about half an inch,
and then about 8 inches of granulated peat. If
this description has been carefully followed, it
will be seen that about 1 inch of the peat is in
water. By this means moisture will be drawn
up through the whole mass, which will be kept
constantly damp, and all that will be necessary
to maintain this condition is occasionally to
look at the pipe which protrudes outside the

PROPAGATION 137

back of the frame, and, when required, to add
water to keep it up to the desired level.

Pots containing seeds should be plunged up
to the brim in the peat, which will keep
them sufficiently damp, and also tend to
preserve them at an even temperature. By
this device the danger of the pots becoming
too dry is reduced to a minimum, and as the
moisture is merely absorbed from the outside,
there is no chance of their becoming water-
logged. A few minutes two or three times a
week is all the attention they will require.

Much time may be gained, especially in
the case of the slower germinating seeds, by
making, in a pit or frame, a very gentle hot-
bed, and either sinking in the bed the pots
in which the seeds are sown, or else covering
it with about 4 inches of fine soil and sowing
the seeds on that. Personally, I think the
chief objection to this method is that the seed-
lings will require to be very carefully treated
until they are sufficiently hardened off. There
is also the danger of the hotbed cooling down
before the seedlings are strong enough to look

after themselves, I therefore much prefer the

138 ROCK GARDENS

cold frame, for although its action is slower,
better and stronger seedlings are thereby
obtained. Some people also recommend
soaking the seeds for a short time in warm
water before sowing. This treatment rather
tends to hasten germination, as it softens the
outer covering of the seed, which with some is
so very hard that it would take, in the ordinary
course, a long time before it becomes affected
by the moisture of the soil.

There is a right and a wrong way of doing
most things, and, although it may be thought
dificult to make a mistake in sowing seed, it
is by no means as simple a process as many
people imagine.

With the seeds at hand, choose out the
requisite number of pots of 5 or 6 inches,
according to the amount to be sown, a separate
pot for each kind. Into these put the drainage
of broken crocks, filling to about a quarter the
depth of the pot, and over this put a layer of
moss to prevent the soil getting into and
choking up the drainage.

Next prepare the compost, which will of

course vary according to what is to be sown,

PROPAGATION 139

but for general purposes it may be made up of
good light fibrous loam, mixed with a fair
amount of sharp sand and leaf-mould in the
proportion of about three to one. Put this
through a ;,-inch riddle, keeping a sharp
look-out for worms, which should be promptly
removed. Put the coarse part remaining
in the sieve over the drainage in the pots,
filling them half full. Then fill up the re-
mainder with the fine soil. Now press all
down firmly, either with a piece of wood or
the bottom of a pot, which will answer just
as well, until the surface is about half an inch
below the edge of the pot and fairly smooth.
This will leave things ready for sowing.

Take the seed packet and open carefully,
either over the pot or a sheet of paper, if the
seeds are very small, and then sow as evenly
and thinly as possible. To cover, hold the
riddle in one hand at an elevation of about 6
inches over the pot, and on it scatter the soil,
keeping the riddle gently moving all the time.
By this method the soil will be spread evenly
over the surface of the pot. The depth of

covering is generally supposed to be equal to

140 ROCK GARDENS

the diameter of the seeds ; but these are often
so very small, that a better way is just to
cover till no seeds are visible on the surface.
In some cases the merest dusting will suffice.
Over this I find a thin layer of fine silver
sand very beneficial in keeping the surface
clean and free from moss, which, even if it
does grow, can easily be removed without dis-
turbing the seeds.

Special mixtures of soil will be required for
some seeds. For those that like lime, the Saxi-
frage family, for example, and especially the
encrusted section, it can be added in the form
of lime rubbish, and less loam and leaf-mould
used ; whilst for those that like peat, such as the
Ramondias, Rhododendron, etc., the compost
should consist of fibrous loam, peat, and leaf-
mould, with a little sharp sand. In the case of
the Androsaces, sandstone broken up quite small
will be found of service. In short, whatever
soil the mature plant does best in should be
used for its seeds. The soil for either potting
or sowing seeds should not be so dry that it
will not take water readily, nor yet so wet that
it is liable to cake or stick to the riddle ;

PROPAGATION 141

it should just be sufficiently damp to work
easily.

Having sown the seeds, label carefully, and
then cover the pot with a piece of glass to
prevent undue evaporation. This should not
be removed till the seedlings are well up.
Now place in a cold frame, close to the glass,
and see that each pot is as level as possible.
The frames should be kept shaded from the
direct rays of the sun, whilst admitting as much
light as possible. Try to keep the tempera-
ture as even as can be. Before the seedlings
appear, the frame may be kept closed ; but
when they are up more air will be required,
or they will be liable to damp off.

As some seeds take such a very long time to
germinate, do not be in a hurry to throw them
away, even should they not appear within
twelve months. Presuming the seeds are
sown in March and nothing appears up to
the autumn, they should be surfaced with a
light dusting of soil and kept over the winter,
being watered sparingly during the winter
months. Except in the case of seeds that

are known to germinate quickly, I should

142 ROCK GARDENS

not despair of their coming up, even had
they been sown eighteen months; but after
that they may be thrown away, for the
chances of success are by then almost nil.

If there is no frame available, the seeds
should be sown rather later, say about the
beginning of April, and the pots plunged in
sand or cinders in a warm and sheltered corner,
protected from the hot sun and heavy rains.
But I strongly recommend a frame when-
ever possible, for the temperature and
moisture can then be so much more easily
regulated and kept even.

After the seedlings are up and strong enough
to handle easily, they may be pricked off into
4-inch pots, or, still better, into shallow boxes
about 5 inches deep. After pricking out, the
pots or boxes should be kept protected from
the sun for a few days until the seedlings have
recovered from the move. As frost has great
effect on pots and is very liable to loosen the
roots of plants in them, some protection will
be required during the winter months, although
this may be obviated to a certain extent by

plunging into a bed of sand or fine cinders.

PROPAGATION 143

The seedlings may remain in these boxes or
pots till the following spring, by which time
they should have made good roots and may be
transferred to their final home, or, if required
for stock, be potted up into 24-inch thumb-pots,
which should be plunged in the sand or cinder
bed. Another method which may be adopted
in the case of stronger-growing plants is to
prick out direct from the seed-pot into a bed
specially prepared with fine soil. Plants so
treated will also require protection for a few
days from hot sun.

If the instructions just given are carefully
followed there is every reason to expect that the
result will be a success. But, to give it every
chance, it is absolutely essential to obtain fresh
and fertile seed, to provide ample drainage in
seed-pots, keep them clean and free from all
weeds and moss, and, above all, to keep the
moisture even, for nothing proves more fatal
to germination than alternate conditions of
moisture and drought.

Most alpine and rock plants lend themselves
very readily to propagation by division, espe-
cially that large and typically alpine family

144 ROCK GARDENS

the Saxifrages, as do also the Androsaces,
Primulas, and a host of others too numerous to
mention.

As an example of the method to be adopted,
let it be assumed it is wished to increase the
stock of Saxifraga apiculatum. Remove from
the parent plant some of the shoots next
the ground, breaking them off as close to the
main stem as possible. A careful examination
will disclose tiny rootlets attached to every
piece so removed, each of which, when potted
up in suitable soil, will grow readily. In a
similar way any number of rooted pieces may
be obtained from the mossy Saxifrages, without
in the least spoiling the appearance of the
plant from which they are taken. In deal-
ing with the rarer kinds of Saxifrages, especially
those of the encrusted section, such as dapen-
stoides, Bursertana, Boydi, etc., more care will
have to be exercised, and it is advisable, before
removing a portion of the plant, to see if it is
rooted. With some Saxifrages, such as ¢rifur-
cata, Whitlavii, roots will be found springing
from joints along the creeping stem, much in
the same way as with strawberry runners. In

PROPAGATION 14.5

the case of 8S. Cotyledon and its varieties,
hybrids of S. Jongifolia, 8. Griesbachu, and
others of a like habit, the rosette from which
the flower-spike springs dies after flowering,
but round it will appear a number of offshoots,
each of which will have developed roots by
the autumn. They can easily be separated
from the main stem, and will have formed
sturdy plants by the following year.

The Androsaces also are easily increased
by division. Take a plant of Adndrosace
Chumbyi: after flowering, a number of small
woolly rosettes will appear attached to the
parent plant by thin wire-like stems. Each
of these in a month or more will develop
roots and form a complete plant which can
easily be separated. Androsace lanuginosa, and
its variety Leichtlim, will, on careful examina-
tion, be found to have made roots on some
of their trailing stems, and these will readily
grow when separated from the parent plant
and potted.

Few families lend themselves better to
division than do the Primulas; in fact, it is

essential to their successful cultivation that
10

146 ROCK GARDENS

they should be taken up and divided annually,
owing to the way they have of growing out of
the ground. This is especially applicable to
the alpine Auriculas. When the plant is lifted,
break off each crown or shoot, and roots will
be found attached to each of the pieces, which
will soon form a good-sized plant.

Most of the dwarf Campanulas, such as
pulla, pulloides, Stansfieldu, G. F. Wilson, etc.,
spread by means of a creeping rootstock, from
which pieces can easily be detached, each of
which will readily grow.

The various Phloxes, and some of the
Dianthus family, especially suavis and cesius,
will, if closely examined, be found to have
made roots in places. These rooted bits
should be separated from the parent plant,
and then carefully raised with a ball of earth
if possible. There are, in fact, very few
alpine or rock plants from which rooted bits
cannot be obtained, which, when divided
and carefully potted, appear usually to gain
increased vigour and strength, instead of
suffering from the effects of the division.

The best time to propagate in this manner

PROPAGATION 147

is immediately after flowering, when the fresh
growth is commencing and the sap is most
active. Having taken off the rooted pieces in
the ways just described, make up a compost,
similar to that in which the parent plant is
growing, and put each piece in a 24-inch
thumb-pot. It is advisable to put a pinch
of sharp silver sand round the roots, for it
encourages growth and lessens the chances
of their damping off. After planting, keep
the pots fairly close in a frame, plunged up
to the rim in sand or fine cinders, and keep
moderately, but not too moist. They should
remain in the frame till they are thoroughly
established, and are forming roots, which will
be shown by their making growth, and then
they may be moved to the open and plunged
in a sand or cinder bed.

It may be taken as a universal rule, to which
there is no exception, that all pots containing
plants should, when in the open, be sunk up
to the rim in either earth, sand, or cinders.
The latter two are much to be preferred, for
in earth the pots are liable to become water-

logged. The object of sinking the pots is to

148 ROCK GARDENS

keep the temperature as even as possible, for,
treated in this manner, they have but the top
surface exposed to either the frost of winter or
the hot rays of the sun in summer, and the
plants in them are therefore much less likely
to suffer from cold or heat than would be the
case if the whole surface of the pot were
exposed.

It will be found a good plan in many cases
to put small pieces of sandstone round the
neck of the plant; they will keep it secure
and prevent undue evaporation.

Propagation by cuttings is an easy method,
and especially applicable to shrubs and any of
the hard-wooded plants. The best time to
take cuttings is between August and November.
They should be made from well-ripened wood
of the year’s growth, choosing vigorous
shoots. ‘These should be shortened to about
3 inches and the lower leaves trimmed off ;
then take a sharp knife and cut through
immediately below a joint from which the
roots will eventually spring. The cutting is
now ready for insertion in pot or bed.
Another method is to break off the cutting

me

PROPAGATION 149

with what is known asa “heel.” This is, in
fact, a portion of the main stem. This heel
should be cut across immediately below where
it joined the stem. Of the two methods the
former, namely, without a “heel,” is that most
generally preferred.

Having prepared the cuttings in either of
the above ways, the next procedure is to insert
them in pots or in an open bed. For any of
the choicer or less hardy kinds, pots are to be
recommended. Take a 4-inch pot, put in
drainage to about a quarter of its depth;
then fill up as full as possible with a com-
post made up of about equal parts of good
fibrous loam and sharp sand. Round the
edge of the pot, and about 2 inches apart,
make with a pointed stick small holes about
11 inch deep, into each of which drop a
pinch of silver sand. Now put a prepared
cutting into each of these holes, making sure
that they reach the bottom. Then place the
thumb of each hand on either side of the
cutting and press the soil firmly down: this
should be done to each cutting in turn.

The great secret of putting in cuttings is to

150 ROCK GARDENS

make the soil round each quite firm. It is
nearly impossible to make it too firm; while,
on the other hand, it is very easy to have it
too loose.

Place the pots containing the cuttings in a
frame or cover with a hand-light, and keep
close, well shaded from the direct sun, until
the cuttings begin to grow. Watering should
be done sparingly ; for while the pots should
on no account be allowed to get too dry, on
the other hand, excessive moisture might cause
the cuttings to damp off. Of the two ex-
tremes it is better to err on the dry side.

For the hardier plants or shrubs, such as
the Helianthemums, Cistus, Philadelphus, etc.,
it is preferable to strike them in the open in
a specially prepared bed, which should be
situated under a wall in some shady and
sheltered corner. Some people, indeed, recom-
mend having it under a wall facing south and
exposed to the full sun, but personally I prefer
a western aspect. Having decided on the site,
remove about 2 inches of the soil, and make
the hollow so formed as firm and solid as

possible. On this prepared surface put about

PROPAGATION 151

6 inches of soil, composed of fibrous loam
and sand in equal parts, which should be put
through a 4-inch riddle. Consolidate this also
as much as possible.

The bed is now ready for the cuttings, which
should have been prepared as already described,
and which may be inserted by making a hole
and dropping in a pinch of silver sand, much
in the same manner as was done in the pots,
except that in this case, instead of being 2 inches
apart, they should be placed quite close to one
another. As before, make quite sure that the
end of the cutting reaches the bottom of the
hole, and above all see that the soil is pressed
firmly round its stem. After the cuttings are
inserted give a good watering to settle the
ground. Little further attention will be needed,
except to shelter, if necessary, from strong sun
or to protect from severe frost or snow. By
the spring it will be found that a large per-
centage of the cuttings have rooted.

Aubrietias are frequently found rather diffi-
cult to strike, owing to their liability to damp
off. The following treatment should, however,
be found to yield a good result. Take the

152 ROCK GARDENS

cuttings in early summer, choosing the young
growth, and cut to joint, as already described ;
then insert in the prepared bed, and cover with
a hand-light, keeping quite close for a couple
of weeks ; after that let a little air in at night,
closing again in the daytime. In all probability
a very large proportion of the cuttings will be
found to have rooted by the autumn.

Some of the hard-wooded shrubs are often
very slow in striking. If at the end of the
year the bark remains fresh and firm, but still
there are no signs of growth, remove it from
the pot. On examination it may in all pro-
bability be found that although there are no
roots, a covering will have formed over the
end of the cutting, which is known as a
“callus,” and from which the roots will
eventually spring. If this is found to be
the case, pot it up again with fresh soil, using
plenty of sharp sand. Very likely in a few
months’ time growth will appear, showing that
it has made roots. In fact, as long as the
cutting continues fresh and the bark un-
shrivelled, there is always the chance of its

striking. I have had cuttings as long as two

PROPAGATION 153

years before they made any roots, but in the
end I was successful by adopting this treatment.

Layering is found a useful way of increasing
some plants which do not, in this country at
least, produce seed, or are difficult to strike
from cuttings; the Rhododendron, Azalea,
and Daphne species, for example. By layer-
ing, stronger plants can often be obtained
than from cuttings. The process of layer-
ing is quite simple. Choosing a convenient
branch or shoot near the ground, cut it half
through near a joint, and then peg firmly to
the ground, which should at the point of con-
tact consist of fine loam and sand in equal
parts ; then cover about 2 inches deep with the
same compost. If, as is sometimes the case, it
is found impossible to make the branch touch
the ground, it may be inserted in a box, raised
to the required height. The great thing to
remember is to make the piece that is to be
layered quite firm, so that it cannot be shaken
about in the soil. In the following spring, if
roots have been made (which may be ascertained
by trying if the layered portion is firm in the
ground), cut this piece from the parent plant,

154 ROCK GARDENS

but do not take up for another month, when it
will be quite safe to move it. Many shrubs and
plants layer themselves quite freely: all that
need be done is to place a little fine soil over
the stem, and on it place a stone to keep it

firm.

CHAPTER XI

CULTIVATION

Climatic difficulties—Contrasting natural and artificial con-
ditions—Tendency to loss of characteristic growth—
Methods of overcoming climatic difficulties—Import-
ance of proper planting——Time to plant—Importance
of top-dressing in spring—-Weeding—Garden pests
and how to deal with them.

Berore discussing the cultivation of rock and

alpine plants in general, let us for a moment

study them growing in their native homes.

We shall then be able to realise and be ina

better position to cope with the difficulties to

be contended with when cultivating them in
the rock garden in this country.

Long, cold, dry winters followed by hot, dry
summers of short duration are the conditions
in which they thrive. From the time of the
first snows in late autumn until these are melted

by the summer sun, the plants are covered
155

156 ROCK GARDENS

with a thick mantle of snow, which keeps
them dry and protects them from the severe
frosts. Then, during their flowering and
growing season, their roots are kept constantly
moist by the melting snows, which gives them
a vigour of constitution which is unaffected
by the scorching sun of late summer.

How very different are the conditions at
home, where, during the winter, there is no
friendly covering of snow to keep them dry
and warm. Instead, there is constant damp,
varied by occasional frosts, which, though not
nearly so severe as they would experience in
their mountain homes, have a much more
harmful effect, owing to their never having
become properly dormant. Then the flower-
ing and growing season in March, April, and
May is, in this country, so often accompanied
by parching east winds. And this lack of
moisture at the period when it is so essential
for them to have abundance of it, to swell the
flower-buds and to promote growth, has the
not unnatural result that when the summer
comes, though they are not subject to any-
thing like the heat of their native place, they

CULTIVATION bey

have neither the vigour nor constitution to
withstand it, and will surely pine away, unless
kept constantly watered.

From this we learn that the failure to keep
such choice alpines as Eritrichium nanum,
Gentiana bavarica, Androsace glacialis, and many
others, or to flower with any success such
plants as So/danella alpina, Androsace obtusifolia,
is due not to the severity of our winters, nor
yet to the heat of our summers, but to the fact
that, owing to the conditions of our climate,
the plants never become dormant, and their
constitution is thereby so weakened that they
are unable to withstand the comparatively
temperate heat of our summers. And, in
addition, though alpines at certain seasons must
have abundant moisture at their roots, they
dislike above all things the continual humid
atmosphere which is one of the character-
istics of the British Isles. From this one
may infer that the secret of success and
the chief thing to aim at is to encourage
strong and vigorous growth in the spring by
careful watering until the plants are sufficiently
established to enable them to withstand a

158 ROCK GARDENS

great deal of drought during the latter part
of the year.

In parts of the Alps, and especially in the
higher valleys, the ground, with scarcely a rock
upon it, will be found carpeted with alpine
flowers, just as daisies and buttercups carpet an
English meadow. There will be found grow-
ing side by side Anemone sulphurea, Myosotis
alpestris, Gentiana acaulis and verna, Silene
alpestris, Primula farinosa, Androsace Sarmentosa
and obtusifolia, Aquilegia alpina, Pinguiculas,
Ranunculus, and a host of others, covering
the bare and rockless ground. Should we,
however, with this scene in our minds, be
tempted to try and reproduce the dazzling
picture at home, we shall only court disaster,
for it cannot be done, or at least it has never
been achieved up to the present. With us
it is found to be impossible to grow Silene
acaulis and Primula farinosa in the same spot,
nor will the Prnguzculas flourish with the
Androsaces. And why is this? ‘The reason
is not difficult to discover; it is that the Swiss
valleys suit all these plants equally well.
Moreover, there is no need of rock to pro-

CULTIVATION 159

tect them during the winter from moisture
or from drought in the summer.

But since, in this country, similar conditions
cannot be reproduced, it is neither possible to
have a spot free from drought in summer and
excess of moisture in winter, nor to persuade
the plants themselves to retire to rest for at
least half the year: all that remains is to try
to learn the peculiar weakness of each and to
provide to the best of our ability what may
suit their several needs.

Yet another lesson is to be learnt from the
study of alpines in their own land, where they
are found growing so close together as to form
a regular turf, and carpeting the ground so
thickly that they leave no bare spaces. It is
that the rock garden at home should show
nothing but plants, and rocks half hidden by
them, and, if this is done, the plants will not
be so liable to suffer from drought. As one
might expect, there will be some difficulty in
accomplishing this, especially in the beginning,
when plants must have room to grow, and
when they are also most liable to suffer

from bare spaces and the attendant danger

160 ROCK GARDENS

of drought. ‘To a certain extent this may be
guarded against by covering the bare spaces
with chips of stones, but plants are more beauti-
ful than stones, therefore endeavour to clothe
the ground completely. But while it is right
to aim at the ideal, it will require considerable
skill to combine the plants in such a way that
one will not crowd out the other; we must
seek to eliminate, as far as possible, that
struggle for existence which is the pre-
dominant feature in nature.

Another point to remember, and one which
does not help us in the choice of subjects to
plant together, is that alpines, when brought
into cultivation, in a great measure lose their
characteristic growth, and not unfrequently the
brilliance of their bloom. It will be necessary,
therefore, to know the habit of the plants
when growing in an English garden, to enable
one to combine them together successfully.
Therefore it should not be taken for granted
that those which live together harmoniously
on the Alpine slopes will do the same with us.

One reason, and probably the correct one,

why some alpines, when brought into cultiva-

[ Zo face page 160.

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CULTIVATION 161

tion, lose the characteristic dwarf and stunted
habit they display in their native homes, is
that there they have not time to make much
growth, for within the space of perhaps three
or four months at the outside they have to
perform the whole cycle of growth—leaf,
stem, flower, and fruit—while at the same time
they are exposed to every wind.

Nature provides for this by making the
typical -alpine close growing, with short-
stemmed flowers. But when the growing
season is extended and plants protected from
exposure to wind, the flower-stems are apt to
become taller and the foliage more straggling
and rank.

We should aim at combining and massing
the same species together in our rock gardens
as far as space will admit, for in nature we
see them growing in large masses or forming
a carpet of different kinds interwoven together ;
and it is unnecessary to have many rocks, only
a few here and there for the plants to get their
roots under and around.

So much for the different conditions in

which the alpines find themselves when gleaned
EL

162 ROCK GARDENS

from their mountain homes and brought to
an English garden. It is, unfortunately from
the alpines’ point of view, impossible to create
a climate similar to what they have been
accustomed to; we must therefore see how
best we can make up for the deficiencies by
artificial means.

A study of the chief characteristics of
the Alpine climate will show that, when
compared with that of the British Isles, the
chief difference is in the certainty of the
former and the uncertainty of the latter.

In the Alps, once the frost and snow come
in the autumn, they hold all nature in their
grip until the summer sun dispels them for
a few short months.

What a contrast to this country, with its
wet and cold summers, its parching springs,
uncertain autumns and winters! One day
we are frost- and snow-bound, on the next
revelling in misplaced summer weather, which
induces the tortoise-shell butterfly to disport
itself over the few withered remains of the
past summer’s flowers.

Since it is out of the question for us to

CULTIVATION 163

attempt to reproduce the conditions necessary
to induce alpines to become dormant during
the winter, as they are in their native homes,
all that can be done is to protect them from
undue moisture, and, as far as possible, from
sudden variations of temperature. This is
best achieved by covering them from about
November to April with sheets of glass. We
shall be amply repaid for the temporary dis-
figurement during these months by the healthy
appearance of the plants when the glass is
removed in April. This treatment is especially
necessary in the case of the Androsaces and
other woolly-leaved species, which, if left fully
exposed to the winter’s damp, will be very
liable to disappear. It is, however, often very
difficult, owing to the adjacent rockwork, to
fix these panes of glass so as to prevent their
slipping or being knocked down by wind or
the midnight cat. If fitted in a regular frame
with legs, these will be sure to come in
contact with some rock, when it is a case
of either removing one of the legs or the
offending obstacle, neither of which is
desirable.

164 ROCK GARDENS

To overcome this difficulty the following
contrivance will be found quite simple and
easy to make:—From a length of round bar
iron }-inch diameter, cut pieces 6 to g inches
long. Hammer out the top inch of each
quite flat, and bore two holes in it; then
screw on, at a slight angle, a piece of fairly
hard wood 2 inches long by 14 inch, pro-
jecting over the top of the flange about }-inch.
On the top of this block nail a strip of sheet
lead about 14 inch wide and 2 inches long,
which will fold in two to hold the glass,
much as is done in Simplex lead glazing, an
illustration of which can be found in almost
any garden paper.

To fix the covering, select a piece of strong
21 oz. glass large enough to completely cover
the plant. Put the supports into the ground
wherever possible on one side; slip the glass
into the lead clips and place the supports
on the other side of the glass wherever
required, and by gently closing the lead clips
together make all secure. If the glass is too
high above the plant, the whole can be easily
pressed down. The glass should always be

CULTIVATION 165

slightly inclined, to throw off the rain. By
using these supports and employing a little
ingenuity, the glass can be fixed in any spot
and at any angle without danger of damaging
the plant.

So much for the protection of the plants
from the winter’s rain. We shall now see
how we can best supply the moisture necessary
during the growing season, which too often
in this country is the driest and most trying
time of the year. For this there is but
one remedy, and that is constant watering.
This can, to a certain extent, be assisted, or
rather the moisture may be retained, by plac-
ing round the plant pieces of stone, which will
prevent undue evaporation. The spring is the
crucial time; for if strong, healthy growth is
then produced, there will be little need to
trouble about the drought of the summer.
Strong plants will be well able to withstand
any that is likely to be experienced in this
country.

The beginner must not, however, imagine
that all alpines or rock plants require this

amount of attention, or are so exacting, for

166 ROCK GARDENS

it is only these difficult and tantalising higher
alpines, such as the Androsaces, Gentians, some
of the Campanulas, and a few others, that
demand so much care. But there is, and
always will be, a certain fascination in trying to
grow those kinds that others have failed with,
and with every new treatment tried there is
always the hope that the secret of success has
been found. Moreover, so many of these
perverse plants are so typically Alpine that no
rock garden worthy to be called by that name
is complete without them.

But the numbers of other plants are countless,
and amongst them are some of the most attrac-
tive, which will need little attention, but will
increase and multiply as freely as weeds,
provided there is good light soil and plenty
of it, sufficient and ample drainage, as well
as plenty of light and pure air.

Some plants, such as varieties of the Andro-
saces, Campanula lanata, and others, so dislike
much damp lying on their leaves and about their
crowns that they should at all seasons of the
year be protected from moisture from overhead.

Therefore plant them under an overhanging

CULTIVATION 167

ledge ; but since in this position they will be
liable to suffer from drought, thin pieces of
stone and slate should be inserted in the ground
round the plant in such a way that they will
catch the moisture falling from the rock above
and direct it towards their roots. Others,
again, are found to do best when planted in the
perpendicular face of the rockwork—such, for
example, as Saxifraga /ongifolia, the Ramondias,
the Edrianthus ; whilst some, such as Gentiana
verna, prefer a slight hollow. In short, there
is no spot in the properly made rock garden
for which an inhabitant cannot be found,
whether it be in sun or shade, or partial sun or
partial shade, whether in a hollow or on the
level, whether on the perpendicular face or
gentle slope.

In Part II. will be found, after the descrip-
tion of each plant, the position and aspect that
suit it best and the soil it specially prefers.

Many plants die owing to their not having
been properly planted. How often are people
seen planting in somewhat the following
fashion :—Scooping out a slight hollow, some-

times even using their hands ; then, placing the

168 ROCK GARDENS

plant in it anyhow, with its roots all bunched up,
and covering it with soil, they press the earth
down closely round the neck of the plant.
If the plant is too high out of the ground,
they try to rectify the error by pressing down
still harder, and with what result? The tender
and delicate roots get broken and bruised, and,
even if they survive such treatment, take a long
time to establish themselves and become recon-
ciled to “pastures new.” The proper way
is, to make the hole rather larger and deeper
than the plant will require, then to draw
the soil up into the shape of a mound in
the centre; then, very gently disentangling
the tender roots, place the plant on the top of
the mound, spreading its roots out all round
and over its sides, and cover them with soil;
press it gently but firmly down on the outside,
but not close to the neck of the plant, or at
least only as much as is required to keep it
firm and unaffected by the wind. If the
specimen you wish to plant is growing in a
pot, remove it from it by placing the left
hand over the surface of the pot, if necessary
allowing the stem of the plant to come up

CULTIVATION 169

between the fingers; then, taking the pot
in the right hand, turn it upside down, and
strike the rim sharply two or three times
against some solid object, such as the side of
a barrow, or corner of a rock; if this fails
to dislodge the plant, push a piece of stick
through the drainage hole at the bottom, and
press it firmly up. On removing the plant
from the pot, its roots will often be found to
have formed a solid mass, completely filling all
the available space. In this case it would be
a hopeless task to try to unravel them, and
would, in fact, do more harm than good ; so
all that need be done is to pick out the pieces
of drainage which will be found encased in the
roots at the bottom; then squeeze the mass
gently, and, having shaken out the roots a little
at the bottom, plant as already described.

If the plant should be tall-growing or likely
to catch the wind, stake at once, for before the
roots have established themselves the plant is
much more liable to be affected by the wind.

Never, under any consideration, plant when
the ground is sodden or in such a wet state
that the clay sticks to the trowel or fork used ;

170 ROCK GARDENS

it is far better to leave the plants “ heeled in”
for a week, or even more, than to plant when
the ground is unsuitable.

Nor should you plant during hard frost.
The ideal time is in mild, open weather, but
not too hot, when the ground is fairly dry
and in good friable condition. If it is found
necessary to plant in very dry weather, after
putting in the plant, and before completely
filling the hole, give it a good soaking with
water. The hole can be made up to the
required level as soon as this has drained
away.

With regard to watering in general, there is
one golden rule which should never be broken.
Never water unless it can be done to the extent
of thoroughly soaking the ground to a depth
of at least 3 inches. This is applicable equally
to either the newly planted or the old estab-
lished plants. The effect of a light sprinkling
is merely to encourage the roots of the plants
to come to the surface, which is exactly what
should be avoided, for they will then be far
more likely to suffer in hot weather. So if

the watering cannot be done thoroughly, it is

CULTIVATION 171

much better not to water at all. Watering,
once commenced, should be continued; but if
the garden is properly made and the slopes not
too steep, little will be required when once the
plants are established, unless in an exception-
ally dry summer.

It is a good practice to put stones, pressing
them in firmly, close to and round the neck
of alpine plants. These help to keep the
roots moist and cool, and prevent the leaves
lying on the damp ground.

Top-dress the rock garden in spring to
counteract the effect of the winter’s rain and
frost. It is a very important and necessary
operation, and one which is too often neglected.
Nature herself does it by bringing down with
the melting snow, soil and grit, which are
deposited over and around the plants.

The best compost that we can use for
this purpose is the refuse from the potting
bench, mixed with sharp sand and grit, or,
failing this, fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and
sand in about equal parts will do well; the
addition of a little powdered granite will

be found beneficial and suit many plants.

172 ROCK GARDENS

This mixture should be fine and be put
through a }-inch riddle.

Every spring we should carefully examine
our plants, especially such kinds as Androsace
villosa, Chamajasme, and Laggeri, many of
the Potentillas, Saxifrages, Erigerons, Asters,
Campanulas, ‘Daphne cneorum and Blagayana,
Silenes, Dianthus, Anemones, Primulas, Gen-
tians, etc., and wherever it is found that the
soil has been washed away from the plants,
expose their roots and stems, gently open the
tufts out, and carefully work in the soil and
grit through them. Small chips of stone
can with advantage be used to keep straggling
shoots in position and encourage them to
layer. It may, and probably will, be a
troublesome operation, but the result will
more than repay the time expended, for
plants so treated will shortly appear to take
a new lease of life and display that vigour of
healthy growth that is the pride and joy of
all gardeners.

The surface of the whole garden should
be gone over, and wherever roots or off-

shoots of plants are exposed they should be

CULTIVATION 173

covered. Frost also tends to loosen plants,
which, when so found, should be firmly
pressed home again. In places where rain
has formed a miniature channel, it should be
filled up and a stone or two put in to keep
the soil in position.

The frost, snow, and rain of winter, besides
removing the soil from the plants, has often
the effect of dislodging or loosening the very
rocks themselves, no matter how carefully
they have been originally built in. There-
fore in the spring examine the rockwork
carefully, and whenever a crack appears in
the soil behind some rock it is a sure sign
that it has moved. It should immediately
be made firm, either by packing the soil
around it or driving in a wedge-shaped stone
at its base to get it back into position. When
this is accomplished, make quite certain that
no air space is left at the back of the rock,
even if it should entail removing some of
the soil to ascertain it. During the summer,
and more especially in very hot, dry weather,
the exposed surface of the ground should be
kept loose and well pulverised, and, when

174 ROCK GARDENS

doing this, care should be taken not to
disturb the roots of the plants.

Weeds must, at all costs, be kept down.
The secret of success is never to let them
seed. ‘The only safe and sure way to remove
the weeds is by the hand. The hoe is a
dangerous instrument, even in the hands of
the skilled, and fatal in the hands of others.
Besides, alpines should be encouraged to
sow themselves, and the young seedlings
would most certainly come to a speedy and
untimely end. When feasible, do the weed-
ing yourself, unless you are lucky enough to
command the services of a man, or boy, who
can distinguish the difference between weeds
and plants—by no means an easy thing to do
when they are in the seedling stage—and who
possesses that rare and divine gift of walking
over a rock garden without treading on the
tufts of one’s most precious plants. Personally,
I have not yet met this gifted creature, for
my experience is that a month’s weeds do
less harm than an hour of the labours of the
garden boy; but others, perchance, may be

more fortunate.

CULTIVATION 175

How very true is that trite old saying,
‘“OQne year’s seeding gives five years’ weed-
ing

not, indeed, that weeds seed more freely

o> |

and especially so of the rock garden ;

there than they do in the ordinary border,
but that the weeds, once established, are so
much more difficult to dislodge, owing to
the way they have of getting their roots
around and behind the rocks, choosing gener-
ally the largest and hardest to get at. Some-
times, indeed, the only way to exterminate
them is to remove the rock itself. This
should, however, be the last resource.
Garden pests! I cannot say whether it
is More in sorrow or in anger I write these
words; a good deal of both perhaps. In
sorrow at the picture it recalls to my mind
of tender and choice plants mutilated almost
beyond recognition by some bird, or in one
short night by the attention of one voracious
slug. In wrath certainly at the spoiler of
these treasures. Gardening is, alas! one
long fight against the elements and against
nature in the shape of birds, beasts, and insects.

Fishes, so far, have not yet attacked me.

176 ROCK GARDENS

Perhaps, however, if gardening were all plain
sailing it would not have the same fascination.

In hard weather, when snails and slugs are
not abroad, birds tear to pieces our choicest
tufts of Saxifrages and Campanulas, seeking
for insects. It was only yesterday that, going
round my own garden after a week’s frost
and snow, I found my best plant of Saxifraga
Apiculata strewn in small pieces over the
path, and a patch of Arenaria Balearica looking
as though an army of men had been at it with
rakes.

In mild weather the birds very kindly leave
us more or less alone, except when, in a play-
ful mood, they amuse themselves by cutting
off and scattering on the ground the open
flower-buds of our alpines, choosing with an
almost uncanny certainty those of the shyest-
blooming varieties. But in case we should
be congratulating ourselves on the waning
interest in our garden displayed by the birds
in mild weather, the slugs and snails will sally
forth in quest of pastures new and rare! Is
it towards such strong-growing plants as the
Aubrietias, Arabis, or mossy Saxifrages that

[ To face page 176.

DIANTHUS ALPINUS.

ROMAZOFFIA SITCHENSIS.

CULTIVATION 177

they wend their slimy way? Not at all. But
yonder is a plant of Phyteuma comosum just
showing its purple leaves. What more
could heart (if it has one, which I doubt) of
slug desire for a luscious supper? Or per-
chance it is a struggling plant of Campanula
Zoyzi, or Erigeron, or Symphydra pendula, or |! }
A volume could be filled with all the or’s!
How can we cope with such difficulties? For
if the birds be destroyed, then there promptly
will be a plague of insects, and the last state
will be far worse than the first. So it were
better to destroy all the insects. But can this
be done? ‘The answer is short. Quite im-
possible. So let the birds live, or some of
them at least, to keep the balance of nature.

Dire indeed would be the result if this
were lost. The one example of the rabbits
of Australia too easily proves the truth of
this.

Many mixtures are advertised for destroy-
ing these pests, but personally I have not found
any of them very efficacious. Perhaps I did
not use them properly ; but, be that as it may,

the result was that neither slugs nor snails
12

178 ROCK GARDENS

were destroyed or kept at bay for more than
a few days at most. The only thing I have
found really efficacious in warding off their
attack is a ring of zinc round the plant. It
is not ornamental, but can be removed as
soon as the plant has made its growth, when
the slugs can do but comparatively little
damage, the crucial time being when growth
is just commencing.

These zine rings are simple to make. Get
a sheet of zinc and cut into strips about 1}
inch wide, and long enough to go round the
plant, and fasten the ends together with copper
wire. The theory is that as zinc and copper
in contact create a certain amount of electricity,
the marauding slug gets a shock on touching
this barrier. Whether this is the case or
not I cannot say, but the fact remains that
they will not cross the zinc. When putting
this ring round a plant, make sure there are
neither slugs nor snails in the plant or ground
around it. If any are within the magic circle,
there they will remain and concentrate all
their energies on the one unhappy plant, with

dire results.

CULTIVATION 179

Powdered alum, which is quite harmless
to plant life, is also a good preventative for
slugs, and snails most strongly object to any
astringent, though I doubt if it would kill
them unless applied in considerable quantities.
As an experiment I have tried sprinkling
slugs with a mixture advertised for killing
them, and the only result I could get was
that, though they apparently very much dis-
liked the stuff and at first seemed to be
dead, after a short time they were able to
throw off what appeared to be a skin of slime
and then crawled away none the worse.
There is, in my opinion, but one way to
get rid of these pests, and that is by hand-
picking. The earlier in the year this is done
the better, before they commence to breed.
The practice I adopt is to go out as soon as
itis dark with a lantern (those “ ever-ready ”
electric lanterns I find very light and handy),
and armed with long pointed scissors, such
as are used for thinning grapes; and every
slug or snail, be he large or small, I—well,
the guillotine was supposed to be an instan-

taneous and painless death, and I can assure

180 ROCK GARDENS

my readers that, judging from appearances,
the scissors are equally speedy in dealing with
slug or snail.

By persevering with this treatment, these
pests, though not completely banished, can
be kept within reasonable bounds. Wire-
worms, of which there are several varieties, are
the larve of various kinds of beetles, known
by the popular name of the click, or skip-
jack. These wire-worms, especially in new
ground, are a great scourge. They are about
half an inch long, and somewhat thicker than
an ordinary knitting-needle, and of an orange
colour. They obtain their name from the
toughness of their skin. They can be ham-
mered into the ground, which treatment,
unless it be peculiarly hard, appears to have
but little effect on them. They are most
destructive, especially to any of the Dianthus
family, and dearly love the tuberous-rooted

>

plants. ‘ Vaporite” is very successful in
warding off their attacks, and will in fact
kill them, while it is perfectly harmless
to even the most delicate plants. It can

be obtained from almost any seedsman or

CULTIVATION 181

chemist, and full instructions are given with
each tin.

A very good and simple way of catching
wire-worms is to bury a carrot or potato in
the ground, marking the spot, and after a day
or so dig it up again. By that time all the
wire-worms for some distance round will have
found it out and burrowed into it.

Earwigs are especially harmful to the
blooms of carnations, cutting the petals off at
the base. They can be easily trapped. Being
night-feeders, they rest during the day, choos-
ing for preference such a spot as a hollow
stalk ; so by placing pieces of bean-stalk about
6 inches long, or any other hollow stalk,
amongst the flowers of the plant attacked and
blowing the contents into a tin of boiling
water every morning, many of these trouble-
some pests may be destroyed. For cater-
pillars, aphis, and the like, hand-picking and
spraying with some of the many mixtures
advertised for that purpose are the only
remedies.

The wood-louse has got a bad name, but

has done me little or no harm in my garden.

182 ROCK GARDENS

To catch him, cut a potato in half and hollow
out each portion, then place on the ground,
hollowed side down. Examine each day, and
destroy the wood-lice that will be found hiding
in these traps by shaking them into boiling

water.

CHAPTER All

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN

Points for consideration—Difference between alpines and
rock plants—Grouping—Examples of same—Planting
bulbs — Ferns — Caution against rampant - growing
plants—Importance of proportion—Planting shrubs.

Ir the reader has been able to derive sufficient

help and information from the earlier chapters,

he will naturally be anxious to know how
to plant his garden, and the best varieties of
plants to use, and as the ultimate result will
largely depend on the selection made and
whether the plants are judiciously grouped,
their choice and arrangement should most
carefully be considered. Otherwise the result
will be but chaotic and inartistic, no matter
how skilfully the garden has been engineered.

How to group plants so as best to show

off the beauty of the individual, while at the
183

184 ROCK GARDENS

same time producing the most telling effect in
the general scheme, is in my opinion one of,
if not quite the most difficult branch of rock
gardening, while it is also the most important.

It is at times almost impossible to know
how best to produce the desired effect ; there
are so many points to be considered before the
final home for any plant is selected. First
arises the question of aspect, whether that
chosen will suit it; then how it will combine
in colour, habit, and time of flowering with
its next-door neighbour. One is sometimes
almost in despair, for no place seems to answer
all requirements, and one is almost induced to
follow the slovenly and lazy gardener’s motto
of ‘‘Oh, put it in anywhere.” But anywhere
is nowhere, and there must be some spot that
will suit it best, and that spot should be found,
even if it entails a considerable amount of
trouble.

I do not profess to be an artist, nor will I
attempt to venture into those mystic schemes
of colour of which one hears so much, but
sees so little, except in the catalogues of

nurserymen.

| Zo face page 184.

SAXIFRAGA APICULATA.

SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA.

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 185

In rock gardening, and in fact in all kinds
of gardening, the best results are frequently
obtained by the simplest means. The chief
thing to avoid is a confused mixture of many
brilliant colours, giving crude contrasts ; at its
best it has but a patchy appearance, and does
not give that harmony of colour which it
should be one’s object to obtain. And the
beauty of the individual plant will suffer no
loss from a judicious blending for general
effect; rather the contrary, for by a good
combination the individual also will be shown
at its best.

Before proceeding to discuss further the
planting of alpine and rock plants, it would
perhaps be as well to explain what is meant
by alpine and what by rock plants, lest
some confusion should arise, owing to the
two names being often used synonymously.
Alpines derive their name from their original
home—the Alps. Rock plants, which include
alpines, are those collected from all parts of
the temperate world, be it mountain or valley,
which, so long as they are suitable in habit
and height, are used in the rock garden.

186 ROCK GARDENS

Henceforth it may be understood for the
sake of brevity that in “rock plants,” alpines
and all suitable varieties are included.

Rock plants, looking at them with a view
to grouping in the garden, may be divided
into two classes: (1) those which, on
account of their freer growth and more
generous bloom, can be effectively used for
massing; and (2) those which are grown
chiefly on account of their intrinsic beauty,
but which, owing to their slower and more
diminutive growth, will not, in this country
at least, give the same bold dashes of
colour.

In the former class may be included such
families as the Aubrietias, Rock Roses, Arabis,
Cerastium, Campanulas, etc.—in fact, most of
the commoner plants grown in the rock garden.
In the latter class one has such lovely things
as Soldanella alpina, the rarer Saxifrages, such
as S. diapensioides, cesta, Burseriana, Faldonside
etc., Campanula Zoyzi, Rainera, Edrianthus
serpyllifolius, Phyteuma comosum, and many
others too numerous to mention here, all and

each lovely in themselves, but whose beauty

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 187

would be lost if planted beside, say, a yard-
square avalanche of Aubrietia. So it is ad-
visable that these more diminutive treasures
be grown in a part of the garden reserved for
them alone, and not mixed with the coarser
kinds. It is all very well for people to talk
about carpeting the ground with Androsace
glacialis, Eritrichium nanum, or Campanula
Rainera ; it is so in Switzerland, but it cannot
be achieved in the British Isles. ©

Keep all the choicer Saxifrages together,
choosing a well-drained spot fully exposed to
the sun, with soil containing a good propor-
tion of lime-rubbish, sand, and broken stones.
I have grown together, and bloomed well,
S. diapensioides, Faldonside, cesta, Ferdinand,
Coburgi, Boydu, Burseriana, and others of the
choicest kinds, which would have been lost and
passed unnoticed if scattered throughout other
parts of the garden. ‘There are numbers of
other Saxifrages strong-growing and beautiful,
such as apiculata, sancta, Wallacet, Rhei, Guil-
ford, and Cotyledon, which will make as much
growth in one season as the previous mentioned

kinds will in ten. So use these latter in

188 ROCK GARDENS

large bold masses for covering your rocks and
level spaces.

The following general scheme of planting
might well be adopted :—To fall over the
rocks bordering the paths, mass Aubrietias of
all kinds, Arabis, Hypericum reptans, Androsace
lanuginosa and its variety Leschtlini, Dianthus
suavis, Thymes, etc.; while in places where the
rocks are but little over the level of the path,
tufts of mossy Saxifrages, Campanulas, etc., may
be allowed to spread on to the path. Behind
this, which may be called the edging, plant
over the rocks the lower-growing kinds and
creeping varieties, while on the level spots place
such plants as St/ene alpestris, Campanula pulla,
and Gentians, Dianthus, etc., interspersed here
and there with plants of a taller - growing
habit, so as to avoid a too flat appearance.
Behind these again the bolder-growing plants
and smaller shrubs or shrubby plants, merging
gradually into the shrubs which form the
background.

Always endeavour to plant in bold masses.
Avoid single specimens dotted here and there.

If the garden is large, one or even two square

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 189

yards is not too much space to devote to one
variety ; but this is not always easy to accom-
plish. It takes so many plants of one kind
to cover the space desired, especially con-
sidering how small they usually are when
received from nurserymen, and the expense
of a large number is often prohibitive. But
if only two or three plants can be obtained in
the beginning, instead of the dozen or more
required, I would still advise assigning the
larger space, and in the autumn propagating
from one of your own plants. It cannot be ex-
pected that the garden will be properly clothed
much under four years, unless a very large
number of plants are purchased to begin with.
And even when this cannot be done, it is
still better to adopt the system of massing,
for massing is the secret of effect. Though
often the individual flowers of rock plants
do not possess much intrinsic beauty in them-
selves, when grown in large quantities they are
most effective.

When massing plants, endeavour to vary the
shape and outline of each group as much as

possible, for otherwise a formal effect will be

190 ROCK GARDENS

produced, which is very objectionable. The
formation of the ground will help in this, to a
certain extent at least.

As an example of what can be obtained by
this method, imagine a drift of Campanulas
stretching half way up the face of the bank,
with a tuft of mossy Saxifrages covering the
rocks which bound the path, while in another
place a cascade of Androsace Jlanuginosa falls
on to a strip of Silene alpestris growing at
its foot; while again a dazzling patch of
Gentiana acaulis is seen extending right up
to rocks covered with a snow-white torrent
of Thymus Serpyllum alba. Many such pictures
as these could be suggested did space permit.

Annuals may give a great show of bloom
for some months during the summer, and are
usually very easy to grow; but they have the
great objection that once their bloom is past
they die away, leaving an ugly blank in the
garden. With the majority of perennial rock
plants it is different. ‘They are beautiful even
when not in bloom, on account of their
foliage and habit of forming compact tufts,

which increase year by year, and give that idea

[Zo face page 190.

iat,
WES at

ANDROSACE LANUGINOSA, IN THE AUTHOR’S GARDEN.

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 1g91

of permanence so lacking in annuals. For
these reasons I never use annuals of any kind,
if I can avoid it, except that dainty little
yellow Saxifrage, Cymbalaria, which appeared
in my garden of its own accord, and goes on
sowing itself from year to year, but never
encroaching.

Many varieties of bulbs can be used with
delightful effect on the slopes of the rock
garden. ‘They have, however, one objection,
that they only make a show during the flower-
ing season, which, alas ! is all tooshort. Once
that is over, little else but withered leaves
remains. ‘To remedy this defect, put your
bulbs under dwarf- and close-growing plants,
such as the Thymes, Sedums, mossy Saxifrages,
etc. In the spring they will push up through
these carpets, have their flowers, and disappear
until the following year.

Ferns can also be used with good effect in
the shadier and damper parts of the garden.
Their lovely green foliage will show off and
accentuate the livelier colouring of the flowers.

My reiterated emphatic advice with regard

to the scheme of planting is to mass. Mass

192 ROCK GARDENS

boldly, covering the rocks and all the surface
of the ground. The fully matured rock garden
should have no untenanted spot, nor in summer
show any bare spaces. Therefore, mass ;
but it must be left to individual taste and
circumstances to decide how to obtain the best
effects from the material at hand.

With regard to what are the best species to
plant together, colour and time of flowering
will have especially to be considered, provided
always that the aspect suits both species equally
well.

It is not advisable to devote too large a
space to plants of the same flowering season,
for though the result during that period may
be pleasing, it will be apt to make rather a
blot on the general effect when their bloom is
over. Sol prefer to mix the plants in such
a way that from April to September there will
be no part of the garden quite devoid of bloom,
though, as might be expected, the garden will
be much gayer at some times of the year than
at others.

Another point to look to, and one often
rather liable to be forgotten, is that no very

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 193

strong and rapid-growing plant should ever
be put beside one that is of slow growth and
delicate habit, or the former will sooner or
later smother the latter.

Never plant rubbish. Do not be persuaded
by your friends “just to fill up your garden
with anything to make a show the first year.”
This is the greatest mistake, for you may
afterwards have difficulty in getting rid of
what you planted merely as a “stop-gap.”

A word of warning may not be out of
place with regard to very strong and rampant-
growing plants, especially those that have a
creeping rootstock, for great discretion will
have to be exercised in planting them owing
to the difficulty of removing them when once
established behind some large rock. Nothing
in the shape of a rampant grower should be
planted in the part of the garden reserved for
the choicer kinds. The wild garden is the
place for such dangerous characters, for their
encroaching habits will not so much matter
there.

I speak from experience. In a weak mo-

ment, and I must confess in ignorance of its
13

194 ROCK GARDENS

habit, I planted in one of the choicer parts of
my garden a plant of Convo/vulus altheoides, a
very attractive plant in itself. In two months
it had made wonderful growth, clothing the
adjacent rocks with its creeping stems. My
suspicions having been aroused, I examined the
ground around, and about 4 feet from the parent
plant I found a sucker of it just appearing in the
middle of my best plant of Daphne Blagayana.
To get there it had to work its way behind
a rock weighing about a quarter of a ton.
Further investigations showed that it was
spreading in all directions, and had reached as
far as 5 feet from the original plant, which
was hastily banished to the wild garden. All
the rockwork had to be taken down in order
to thoroughly clean the ground. So that two
days’ hard work was the result of a thoughtless
moment. Let this experience of mine bea
warning to the reader on no account to plant
anything, except in the wilder parts, that will
be likely to take possession of his garden.
Leaving the rock plants, we will now deal
with the shrubs, the dwarf-growing kinds,

which can be mixed with the plants, or form a

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 195

connecting link with those of stronger growth
which are to make the background of the
garden.

Too much care and attention cannot be
devoted to the planting of the shrubs, both
large and small. On their judicious and
skilful arrangement the success of the garden
from an artistic point of view will greatly
depend.

The modern rock garden is usually a copy,
or more often an attempt to copy, some
mountain scene on a very reduced scale,
and that it is on a very reduced scale is
evident from the fact that where in nature
we find rocky crags or cliffs 30 feet or
40 feet high, we, in our puny imitations,
have to be content with rocks measuring as
many inches. In order, therefore, to carry out
this idea correctly, we should use trees and
shrubs proportionate in size to our rocks.
Amongst the rocks should be planted dwarf
shrubs, such as Ledum buxifolia, Azalea amena,
or Cuzstus florentinus, and such miniature trees
as the dainty little Pius sy/vestris Beuvronensts,

or some Retinospera obtusa pygme@a, pigmy re-

196 ROCK GARDENS

productions of those gnarled and aged giants
found on the scene we wish to copy.

The secret of a faithful reproduction is
proportion. For example, by planting one
of these dwarf trees at the foot of some
rock, or inserting it in some fissure, such
an added value of dignity and height will
be imparted that the rock will appear to
be transformed into a rugged cliff. So
again, by planting on some height a group
of Juniper Sabina, the idea is conveyed of a
wind-swept mountain crag. Time will indeed
be well spent in working out pictures like this -
and trying where such as these will look best
and most effective. Place a group here ora
single specimen there, and study the effect
from different points before finally planting.
The | results: that’ ‘can’ be.) obtained jyare
wonderful so long as the sense of proportion
is preserved. So also with the dwarf shrubs,
though in a somewhat lesser degree, for they
are not such faithful copies of their larger
prototypes. But with the grouping and
arrangement of these dwarf trees and shrubs,

the faithful picture ends, for I must confess

[| Zo face page 196.

UM.

v7

SEMPERVIVUM ARACHNOIDE

—-4

ef 4 a te

ae

er. |

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN 197

I find it difficult to assimilate a pigmy Scotch
fir of say 8 or 10 inches high with a 4 feet
specimen bush of Cistus Jadaniferus or
Olearia Hasti, though it is undeniable that
such shrubs are a necessary and attractive
adjunct to the rock garden. The only way
I can find out of the difficulty of combining
dwarf shrubs and trees with those of larger
growth, is by planting the latter so far away
from the pigmy specimens that they form
merely a background.

As it is imperative that this background
should be permanent, evergreen shrubs
should chiefly be used. But do not for a
moment think it is desirable to ignore the
deciduous section, containing, as it does,
many of the most beautiful of flowering
shrubs. ‘These should be so placed that the
full value of their beauty when in flower is
obtained, while not at other times affecting
the permanent scheme.

This may appear to be somewhat contra-
dictory advice, but by judiciously mixing the
evergreen with the deciduous, such an effect

can be achieved. ‘The advice as regards the

198 ROCK GARDENS

massing of the plants applies also, in a certain
degree, to shrubs, for when several of the
same species are planted together, the effect
is far more striking than when they are
grown singly.

Of shrubs suitable for covering the heights
and the intermediate space between the rock
plants and the larger shrubs, I should advise
a selection from the following :—The family
of Rhododendron is of chief importance, and
varieties suitable for our purpose will be
found in such dwarf-habited kinds as ci/atum,
hirsutum, ferrugineum, Racemosum, myrtifolium ,
also Azalea amaena and its varieties; the
Menziesias, polifolia, polifolia alba, and
Bicolor; and of the Ledums, Pa/ustris and
latifolum; while amongst the numerous
Cistus family such varieties as florentinus,
formosus, lusitanicus, and Rosmarinifohus will
be found most useful. Of the Genistas and
Cytisus one cannot go far wrong in select-
ing the following: Cytisus Ardoim, Kewensts,
purpureus, and Purpureus albus, Gentsta pro-
strata, saggitalis, and tinctora, ft. pl.

Some of these, such as Cytisus Ardoint

PLANTING THE ROCK GARDEN ig9

and Kewensts, and Genista prostrata, which
grow only a few inches high, will creep
over a rock, covering it with a compact green
cushion, which in summer will be transformed
into a sheet of cream or gold.

It is not, however, a good plan to line all
the heights with these dwarf shrubs, for that
would tend to give a monotonous appearance.
Therefore, vary the effect. by planting here
and there, almost up to the rock plants, a
group of the stronger-growing brooms, such
as Cytisus Praecox and Precox alba, Carheri,
scoparius, etc.

Shrubs, deciduous and otherwise, suitable
for massing in the background, are legion,
and every year new varieties are being intro-
duced — some hardy, and others only half
hardy.

Therefore, to a certain extent, the selection
made will depend on the climate. For
instance, in my garden in County Wicklow,
I can grow without the least protection
during the winter such shrubs as Metrosideros
floribunda, Carpenteria Californica, Cistus

formosus, Myrtus apiculata, Grevillea rosmarini-

200 ROCK GARDENS

folia, and many others which are considered
only half hardy; but all people are not so
fortunate.

Unfortunately, Rhododendrons will not grow
everywhere, for they belong to that group of
shrubs which includes so many lovely and rare
species, namely, the peat-lovers, or, as they
should more accurately be called, the lime-
haters. I have a little lime in the soil of
my garden, and Rhododendrons, though they
live, will not thrive as I should wish them
to; otherwise I would grow them as freely
as I would advise all others to do, whose
soil is more suitable.

In Part II. will be found a list of the

choicer shrubs, both dwarf and free-growing.

CHAPTER XIII

COST

Points affecting the cost — Labour — Clearing scrub —
Drainage—Estimated cost of rocks, sand, etc.—Cost
of making artificial bog garden—Cost of plants.

Wuen undertaking any work, whether it be
the laying out of a pleasure-ground, the build-
ing of a house, or the making of a rock garden,
the question that first arises is the probable
cost; and very rightly so too, for to commence
an operation of this kind without having any
idea of the expense incurred, is, to put it
plainly, the act of a fool.

With regard to buildings, the estimate
is, comparatively speaking, simple, for it
merely resolves itself into a mathematical cal-
culation, with a well-recognised basis, such as
the cost of a cubic yard of masonry or a square

of roofing. These are known and acknowledged

202 ROCK GARDENS

factors, and, except in very exceptional cases,
not liable to much variation.

But very different is the case in landscape
gardening, for difficulties may arise, such as
finding unexpected rocks or a very hard stratum
of subsoil, etc., which could not have been fore-
seen or guarded against when the work was
commenced. So any estimate made must be
more or less approximate, and it is wise to
leave a good margin.

In the case of a rock garden much will
depend on whether it is natural or artificial ;
if the former, on whether much clearing has
to be done to expose the rock, and on what
facilities there are for making and draining
the necessary pockets. The texture of the
rock, whether hard or soft, will also affect
the estimate. In the artificial garden there
are even more points to consider: if the
ground has to be cleared from scrub, when it
will cost less than if there are also trees to
be removed; if it is necessary to excavate
for the site, and, if so, to what extent;
also, what the facilities are for getting rocks,

sand, water, and many other things.

COST 203

But in order to form an estimate some data
will be needed as to labour, quantities of rocks
required, etc. I therefore propose to give some
figures which may be found useful, based
partly on my own experience and partly on
engineering tables.

I shall take labour first. But as wages vary
so much in different parts of the country, I
think the most practical way of dealing with
it is, instead of giving cost, to give particulars
of the amount of work an ordinary labourer
might reasonably be expected to accomplish in
a day, and then, with a little calculation of
quantity and knowledge of the local rate of
wages, a very fair estimate of the probable cost
can be made.

One man in a day of eight hours should dig
out and throw up on either side of a cutting
ten cubic yards of light friable soil.

If the soil is stiff clay, which entails much
pick-work, he probably would not be able to
remove more than half that quantity. If there
are large boulder stones mixed with the earth,
it may take even longer. About three cubic

yards of soft rock, or about half a cubic yard

204 ROCK GARDENS

of hard rock should be removed in the day’s
work.

Should the soil have to be removed in a
wheelbarrow to a distance, say, of fifteen to
thirty yards, two men and two barrows should
be able to remove ten cubic yards of friable
loose soil ; if of stiff clay, about five cubic yards.

This is presuming the run to be fairly level.
If up a steep incline they will only be able to
remove about two-thirds of the above amounts.
The method of work is for one man to dig
and fill the barrows, while the other wheels.
If the soil should be hard or difficult to dig,
three men will be required altogether ; two to
dig and fill, and one to wheel, for otherwise the
barrow-man would be idle, waiting till the
load was dug out and filled.

When the earth has to be removed some
distance or the gradient is too steep for barrow-
work, carting will be necessary. Assuming
the distance the soil has to be drawn is a
quarter of a mile, four men with two horses and
carts should remove about twenty cubic yards
of loose earth in the day. An extra man would

be required if the soil is hard.

COST 205

Sometimes, while yet too steep for barrow-
work, it is not possible to work a horse and
cart, as was the case when I was making my
garden. The means I adopted of overcoming
this difficulty was as follows :—I made a small
tilting truck, holding about a ton, similar to
that used in quarries, etc., which I ran on
some light rails, about nine pounds to the
yard; these were quite portable and could
easily be moved about in sections. The
motive power I used was an old ship’s winch,
and with about thirty yards of a three-inch
cable I had a most useful little railway, by
means of which I drew and deposited where
I wished many hundred tons of soil, up a
gradient of nearly one in five. The winch
being geared very low, a small boy could work
it easily, even with a full load on the truck.
In place of the winch, horse power could
be used, but this was not in my case feasible.
However, even had I the choice, I would
prefer the mechanical power.

Some few suggestions as how best to utilise
labour may be found to be a help.

Two men will get through more work in

206 ROCK GARDENS

one day than one man in two days. It is,
nevertheless, a mistake to have too many men
working at the same spot, for they are apt to
get in one another’s way. If possible, try to
arrange your workmen so that one has to keep
steadily working in order to keep another
supplied with work ; for example, with two
men and two barrows, one should be dig-
ging and filling while the other is wheeling ;
the first should have the barrow filled by the
time the second one has returned from deposit-
ing his load. If the distance is considerable a
third man and a barrow may be worked into
the cycle of operations. So also with carting :
arrange your men and carts so that an empty
cart is never kept waiting at the scene of
operations while another one is being filled ;
but time it so that the empty cart arrives at
the spot as the full one leaves. It is wonder-
ful, the amount of time, and consequently
money, that can be saved by a little arrange-
ment of this sort.

It is difficult to make anything of an
accurate estimate of the cost of clearing land

from scrub, so much depends on its nature

COST 207

and age. But—and I think it may be taken
as a maximum—one man ought to clear and
stub one square perch of thick scrub in the
day. This does not include the removal of
tree-stumps, which may easily entail a good
deal of labour and expense.

Piped drains sunk about three feet deep will,
in ordinary soil, cost about two-and-sixpence
per chain of twenty-two yards.

The cost of materials, such as rocks, broken
stones, sand, peat, etc., varies so much in
different localities and depends so much on
the distance they have to be drawn, that it
is dificult to give more than a very rough
estimate.

Rocks of all sizes and broken stones,
which have to be carted about two miles,
I get for three-and-sixpence a load of one ton.
Sand costs about four shillings per load. Peat,
which has to be drawn five miles from a
mountain, costs me five-and-sixpence a load
of about twelve cwt. The quantity of rock
required for making a garden largely depends
on the gradients of the banks in it, and is
difficult to estimate with any degree of

208 ROCK GARDENS

accuracy. Judging from personal experience,
I would say roughly, but it must of necessity
be a very rough estimate, that, taking one
part with another, banks varying in gradient
from four in ten to two in ten would take
about one ton of rocks to every ten square
yards. The steeper the formation the more
and larger the rocks required. Parts with a
gradient of one in two would demand from two
to three tons for the same extent of ground.
The rocks I here refer to are not large masses
weighing fifteen or sixteen cwt. each, but
good serviceable stones weighing from one to
five cwt. apiece, say about ten to fifteen rocks
to a load of one ton. These figures are based
on what I used in my own garden. In it
the actual rockwork, including parts with
rocks scattered only here and there, covers
about twelve hundred square yards, and took
about one hundred and thirty tons of rocks.
The gradients vary from five and a half in
eight, in the steepest parts, to two in ten,
on the gentlest slopes. A good, useful, and
effective gradient is about three and a half

in ten.

COst 209

The description of rock used will also, in
a certain measure, affect the calculations, as
some kinds of stone weigh so much _ heavier
than others in comparison to their bulk. A
solid block of sandstone (quartzite), weigh-
ing one ton, would contain fourteen and a half
cubic feet, while the same weight of whinstone
(basalt) would only contain twelve and a half
cubic feet. So it is apparent that the bulk
is very considerably affected by the nature of
the rock.

For building a dry wall, estimating the
stonework at two feet thick, it would require
about three-quarters of a ton of stones for
every square yard. I have not touched on
the question of cost as regards the actual
building of the rockwork, as this calls
for considerable artistic skill, and is alto-
gether outside the sphere of ordinary
labour. ‘There are many landscape gardeners
nowadays whose services can be obtained,
if desired, at fees varying from one guinea
to four guineas per day, according “to skill
and reputation.

When it is necessary to dig sand or small
14

210 ROCK GARDENS

stones into the soil, it will be useful to have
an idea of the quantities required.

One ton of dry sand contains twenty-four
and a half cubic feet in bulk. So by spread-
ing a ton one inch thick it will cover thirty-
two square yards, and a ton of broken stones
about twenty-five square yards. If either is
very wet, the bulk will naturally be reduced
as compared with the weight, and correspond-
ingly cover less area.

Those who wish to make an artificial bog-
bed with concrete, as described in Chapter VII.,
may find the following calculations of service.
For the foundation, one ton of broken stones,
laid six inches thick, will cover three square
yards. For the concrete, use it at a strength
of six to one. ‘Take one bag of Portland
cement (weighing two hundred and eleven
pounds), and mix with eleven cwt. of gravel ;
this should give about thirteen cwt. of con-
crete, equal in bulk to about twelve cubic feet.
By spreading this three inches thick it should
cover about five and a half square yards. In
order to make the basin of the bog-bed water-

tight, a coating of pure cement will have to be

COST 211

applied. This should be about half an inch
thick. One bag of cement at this thickness
will cover ten square yards.

The number of plants needed will vary
considerably, according to their nature and
habit, some requiring to be planted not more
than six inches apart, while others may be left
as much as eighteen inches or two feet ; but
taking one with another, roughly, about twelve
plants to the square yard would be a fair
number to allow.

The cost of plants varies also not a little ; but,
excluding the rarer kinds, I should say about
five shillings a dozen is a fair price to pay.
This, though only for the commoner kinds,
would mount up to a large figure for even a
garden of moderate dimensions, and when the
cost of rarities is added, the total will often
frighten one.

But nobody expects to fully plant their
garden the first year, so I should recommend,
if economy is an element to be considered,
not buying more than half a dozen of one
sort of the commoner plants, and of the rarer
kinds only one or perhaps three. As most

212 ROCK GARDENS

rock plants can easily be increased by propaga-
tion, the full complement can be made up in
the course of a couple of years or so, at a
considerable saving to one’s pocket, and with
greatly added interest and knowledge of the
habits of the plants.

PAR aie

ALPHABETICAL’ LIST OF) PLANTS: SUITI-
ABLE FOR THE ROCK GARDEN

GIVING FULL PARTICULARS OF THEIR HABIT, TIME
OF FLOWERING, CULTIVATION, ETC.

ABRONIA (NYCTAGINACEAE)

A SMALL genus of plants of trailing habit, bearing clusters of
verbena-like flowers. Only the following species are suitable :—

A. arenaria.—Fully exposed position in light sandy soil.
Flowers lemon-yellow, borne in dense clusters in July. Fragrant.
Not very hardy. Increased by seed, the outer skin of which should
be peeled off before sowing, or by cuttings taken in spring.

A. Crux Maltae.—Open position in sandy soil. Flowers purplish,
pink, with a green throat, in shape resembling a Maltese cross.
Blooms in August. Increased by seed and cuttings same as above.

A. fragrans.—Same soil and position. Flowers white and
fragrant, borne in terminal clusters. Blooms during May, flowers
expanding during the evening. Increased by seed and cuttings.
Grows 12 to 18 inches high, and of a more erect habit.

A. mellifera.—Exposed position in sandy soil. Stem decumbent,
only rising some 4 to 6 inches high. Flowers orange-coloured,
borne in loose clusters in July. Seed and division.

ACAENA (ROSACEAE)

Dwarf creeping plants, of which there are about twenty varieties
in cultivation, but mostly of only secondary value for the rock
garden, where effect is desired. They are all evergreen and
quite hardy.

A. adscendens.—Any aspect. Sandy loam. Creeping habit.
Rapid grower. Silvery leaves. Purplish-coloured burrs. Easily
propagated by division.

215

216 ROCK GARDENS

A. Buchanani.—Any aspect. Any light sandy soil. Close
creeping habit. Rapid grower, but at the same time does not
appear to have the encroaching habit of some of the other varieties.
Finely divided foliage of bright pea-green colour. Round, reddish
burrs freely produced, flowering July to August. Division. This
is one of the best of the family, and on account of its lovely foliage
and less rampant growth may be used for the choicer parts of the
rock garden.

A. inermis.—Any aspect and soil. Creeping habit and rapid
grower. Bronzy-green foliage. Reddish, rather insignificant burrs.
Propagated by division. Useful for carpeting the less choicer parts.

A. microphylla (syn. Novae Zealandiae).— Any aspect. Will
thrive in almost any soil, but prefers that of a light and sandy
nature. Creeping habit, forming a dense carpet about $ inch high.
It is slow-growing as compared with others of the family. The
inconspicuous small round heads or burrs which are freely produced
are furnished with bright crimson spines from July to December.
Pretty finely cut, small, bronzy-green foliage. Easily propagated
by division. This is quite the best variety of the family, being
neat of habit, and during the autumn and even into December the
crimson burrs make quite a feature. It is altogether an indispens-
able plant for some level spot beneath the eye.

A. ovalifolia.—Indifferent to either aspect or soil. Grows about
9 inches high; of vigorous habit. Purplish-coloured burrs, pro-
duced from July to September. Bright green fern-like foliage.
Propagation by division. Too rampant a grower to plant in the
choicer parts of the garden, but in the wilder will be found useful
as a carpet under trees.

A. pulchella.—Any aspect and soil. Creeping habit and very
vigorous growth. Bronzy-green foliage. Propagation by division.
Is a useful plant for covering large stones or bare spaces, but owing
to its growth should be reserved for the wilder parts of the garden.

A. Dryentea, A. glabra, A. myriophylla, A. Sanguisorbae.—Are
all useful for carpeting, but should not be associated with the choicer
rock plants.

A. laevigata.—Is a somewhat shrubby species, with glaucous
green leaves.

ACANTHOLIMON (PLUMBAGINACEAE), Prickly Thrift

A delightful and attractive genus of dwarf mountain plants which
should be grown in every rock garden. The flowers resemble those
of the Thrift, to which genus they are allied. The plants form
branching, cushion-like mats of rigid spiny leaves, from which they
get the name of Prickly Thrift. They all require a sunny and well-

MEPMABETICAL) LIST OF PLANTS. 217

drained position, and are slow of growth and not easy to propagate.
The best method is by working plenty of sand and cocoa fibre well
into the tufts in early autumn, having previously carefully torn some
of the branches, at a junction, so as to half sever them. After this
treatment water well to settle the soil. By spring many of the
growths so treated will be found to have rooted. Cuttings are
uncertain. The best time to take them is in August and September.
Tearing them off with a eed, insert without further preparation in
very sandy loam.

The following are the only varieties in cultivation, but none, with
the exception of A. e/umaceum, are at all common.

A. acerosum,.—Sunny, sheltered corner. Light, well-drained soil.
Close-tufted habit, forming a cushion of spiny, grey, glaucous leaves.
Very slow-growing. Rosy-pink flowers on stems 6 inches high in
July. Propagate as already described. Hardy. A rare and attractive
species ; the grey, glaucous, spiny leaves rather remind one of the
foliage of Dianthus caestus, but, on touching, they will be found to
be armed with sharp spikes.

A. androsaceum.—Soil and aspect same as last. A dense tufted
species. Leaves, grey, glaucous, spiny. Bright pink flowers with a
shade of purple in them, on sprays 4 inches high. Flowers in July.
Propagate as described. Hardy. A very good and choice rock -
plant of easy culture ; will spread over the ledge of a rock. Owing
to the pliant nature of the leaves, the rosettes appear to be less
spiny than in the case of A. venustum, which it resembles.

A. armenum.—Hot, sunny aspect and well-drained soil. Spiny
foliage and pink flowers on sprays nearly 6 inches high.

A. glumaceum.—Sunny aspect and light, well-drained soil.
Forms spiny cushions of narrow dark-green leaves 6 inches high.
This is the most vigorous grower of the family. Bright rose-
coloured flowers, six to eight in a spikelet, with bracts rather like
a Thrift. Flowers June to August. Propagated by cuttings or
layers as described. Quite hardy. The best known of the family,
and should be in every rock garden, where, in any suitable position,
it will thrive well.

A. cephalotes—Well-drained soil in a sunny position. Rosettes
less compact than most species, and composed of narrow spiny
leaves. Globose heads of rosy-pink flowers. A rare species, but
well worth cultivating.

A. Kotschyi.—Requires same soil and aspect as other kinds.
Rather broader spiny leaves than most of the others, and about
4 inches high. White flowers freely produced.

A. libanoticum.—Dry, well-drained, sunny position. Dense in
growth and very woody. Pink flowers.

A, venustum (syn. A. laxiflorum).—A sheltered, sunny aspect.

218 ROCK GARDENS

Deep, well-drained soil, composed of sandy loam, leaf-mould, and
brick rubbish. Dark green spiny leaves with an overlying slightly
grey or glaucous shade. Forms close tufts 6 to 8 inches high.
It is a slow-growing plant, freely producing bright rose-coloured
flowers on arching, one-sided spikes during July. The flowers
are rather longer than those of A. glumaceum. Propagation by
layers and cuttings. This is one of the most attractive and choicest
of rock plants. It requires firm planting.

AcCANTHUS (ACANTHACEAE)

There is only one variety of this genus suitable for the rock
garden, namely, A. Perringi (syn. Roseus Caroli and Alexandrt).
Ordinary soil in a sheltered position. Leaves long and lanceolate,
low-growing habit. Flower-spikes about 12 to 18 inches high, each
producing twenty-four to thirty blooms of deep pink flowers. Quite
hardy and vigorous. A useful and attractive new introduction,
though it has not the brilliancy of some alpines.

ACHILLAE (ComposiTAE), Yarrow

A numerous, though not particularly interesting family of
Compositae, some of which, owing to their rampant growth, are
suitable only for the herbaceous border; but the dwarfer-growing
kinds come in useful for grouping in the rock garden, and are
easily grown and increased. Some of the higher alpine kinds are
liable to become “leggy” in our open winters and will occasionally
require division and replanting. Most of the Achilleas are good
subjects for the wall garden. All like a hot, dry position.

A. ageratifolia (syn. Anthemis Atzoon).—Sunny aspect. Light
sandy soil. A neat and spreading plant about 5 inches high, of
moderately rapid growth. The crinkled leaves, which are narrow
and tongue-shaped, are covered with a white down. White, daisy-
like flowers are freely produced in June. It is easily cultivated
and readily increased by division or cuttings, and quite hardy. A
useful plant on account of its silvery foliage.

A. aegyptiaca (syn. taygetea).—Requires a well-drained, sunny
position. Rather a tall-growing, shrubby plant of 12 to 18 inches
high. Not a very rapid grower. Stems and finely cut fern-like
leaves of a silvery colour. Handsome heads of pale yellow flowers
during August. Easily increased by cuttings. This Achillea is
not very hardy, except in well-drained, sunny, and sheltered spots.
A useful and attractive, half-shrubby plant for the higher parts of
the rock garden.

A. alpina.—Indifferent to either soil or position. Grows 6 to

AUPHABETICAL) LIST OF } PLANTS 219

12 inches high, with pretty serrated leaves and white flowers in
September. Propagated by root division, cuttings, or seed. Quite
hardy. Not of much value for rock garden.

A. aurea.—Any position. Loamy soil. Grows about 12 inches
high, with finely cut leaves, tufted habit. Showy, bright yellow
flowers freely produced during July. Propagated by root division,
cuttings, or seed. Is a good rock plant, and one of the showiest
of the family.

A. Clavennae.—Prefers a sunny position in light loamy soil. A
somewhat shrubby plant of compact habit, growing 6 to 9 inches
high. Silvery-white leaves, which colour is due to the short silky
down with which they are covered. Pure white flowers freely pro-
duced in May and June. Is propagated by root division and seed,
and is quite hardy. One of the best of the family for the rock
garden, if only for the foliage, but the flowers also are a good white,
which many of the other kinds are not.

A. Griesbachit—Sunny position and loamy soil. Grows about
4 inches high, with glaucous foliage and white flowers.

A. Huteri (Huters Varrow).—Sunny position in any soil. Grows
about 6 inches high, of spreading habit, with bright green foliage.
Good, pure white flowers during June and July. Propagated by
division. Is quite hardy. This species should be divided and
replanted every two years.

A. Jaborneggit.Not particular as to soil or situation. Grows
about 6 inches high, of spreading habit and moderate growth.
Distinct silvery foliage. Pure white flowers during the summer.
Quite hardy, and easily propagated by root division or seeds.

This Achillea is a hybrid between A. Clavennae and A. moschata.
It is one of the most worthy of being cultivated, and is really
beautiful.

A. Herba-rota.—Any aspect and soil. Grows about 6 inches
high, with white flowers during May and June. Foliage aromatic
smell.

A. tomentosa.—Sunny position in ordinary light soil. Of spread-
ing, tufted habit, growing about 6 to 9 inches high, of moderately
rapid growth. Woolly, fern-like, evergreen foliage, with flat corymbs
of golden-yellow flowers, freely produced from July to October. It
is quite hardy, and easily propagated by division. A good and
attractive dwarf plant.

A. rupestris—Warm sunny bank, in poor soil. Of compact,
prostrate habit, only growing 4 inches high, producing white flowers
from June to September. A free bloomer. Easily cultivated and
quite hardy. Increased by division. A useful and attractive rock
plant from Italy.

A. Viellerest—Loamy soil. Any aspect. Grows about 6 inches

220 ROCK GARDENS

high. Silvery foliage. Pure white flowers during June and July.
Hardy and easily propagated by root division and seed. A good
rock plant.

A. nana, A. moschata, A. umbellata, etc.—Have silvery foliage
and white flowers, and are all of dwarf habit, easily cultivated and
increased. They mostly bloom during the summer months, and
are useful for carpeting, but call for no special attention.

Acts (AMARYLLIDACEAE), syn. LEUCOJUM

A small genus of bulbous plants, all hardy, and related to the
“ Snowflake.”

A. autumnale.— Sheltered position. Fine, very sandy soil.
Grows about 3 inches high. Narrow green leaves, which disappear
during the summer. Flowers, which appear in September before
the leaves, resemble delicate pink snowdrops. This is a very
uncommon plant, and is a gem for the rock garden, and looks its
best springing from a mat of delicate-rooted Sedum, such as
aasyphyllum.

The following are all worthy of a choice spot, and should be
cultivated in sandy soil :—

A. grandifiora.—Grows 6 inches high, with large, white, bell-
shaped flowers in August.

A. roseus.— Grows 3 inches high, with bright rose-coloured
flowers in August.

A. trichophyllum,—Grows 6 inches high. Rather hairy leaves.
White flowers in January.

ACTAEA (RANUNCULACEAE), Baneberry

Hardy perennials, chiefly suitable for the wilder garden. In-
creased by seed and division.

A. alba.—Partial shade and deep sandy soil. Grows about 18
inches high. Long, white, feathery flower-spikes, rather like a
Spiraea, followed by white berries. Flowers in June.

A. spicata.—Similar, with black poisonous berries.

A. spicata, var. rubra.—Same as above, only with scarlet berries.

ACTINELLA (COMPOSITAE)

A small genus of hardy plants. Increased by division of root in
spring. .

A. grandiflora.—Deep sandy soil, in a sunny position. Dwarf,
tufted habit, about 9 inches high. Yellow flowers about 3 inches
across, borne on many-branched stems, in August

Wer HABE DICAL, LIST OR PLANTS 221

A. scaposa.—Similar, but with silvery leaves and yellow flowers
on long scapes, in July.

ADONIS (RANUNCULACEAE)

Handsome plants of easy cultivation, belonging to the Buttercup
order. They all dislike disturbance and are slow to increase.
Planting should be done in autumn. Strong seedlings are prefer-
able to pieces from old plants. Most varieties produce seed freely,
which will easily germinate if sown in a moist, shady spot and
lightly covered. The following are the best perennial varieties :—

A. amurensis——Sunny position, sheltered from cold winds, in
moist, rather heavy loam. Increases very slowly, and grows about
g inches high. Beautiful fern-like foliage, which dies down towards
the end of the summer. The flowers, which are yellow, and about
2 inches across, are borne on stout leafy stems, and appear as early
as January. It is quite hardy, and can be increased by seed or
division. An attractive and valuable plant, as it blooms when there
is little else in flower. The foliage and colour tint of flower are
rather variable.

A. amurensis, fi. pl—A double form of the above, and a very
handsome plant. Large, quite double, golden-yellow flowers, with
a curious green circle formed of green segments, which rather
enhances than otherwise the beauty of the flower.

A. Viekinsaki.i—Has feathery leaves and small yellow flowers,
which bloom in January and February. It requires same treatment
as above.

A. pyrenaica—Sunny position in stony, well-drained, though
moist, sandy loam. Grows about 1 foot to 18 inches high. Pale
green leaves, rather like curled parsley, at the base of the much-
branched stems. These decrease in size, till round the flower they
are mere mossy tufts. Rich yellow flowers, 2 to 3 inches across,
which appear in June. Hardy and increased by seed. If drainage
is deficient, the crown of the plant is liable to decay.

A. vernalis.—Sunny position in rather moist, heavy loam.
Increases slowly and dislikes disturbance. Grows about 9 inches
to a foot in height. Finely cut leaves. Each stem, which does
not branch freely, bears a single flower of rich, glistening, golden-
yellow, about 2 inches across, in March. Quite hardy, propagated
by seed. A well-known border plant, but one that should be in
every rock garden.

A. volgensis.—Requires same soil and treatment as A. vernalis,
which it very much resembles as regards its flower. Its foliage is
quite distinct, being of a bright green, stems much flatter and thinner
and more branched.

292 ROCK GARDENS

A. pyrenaica.—It bears rich yellow flowers on all the branches
of its slender stems in April.

A. walziana,—This is a hybrid: A. vernalis and A. volgensts.
It requires same treatment and position as the last named. It bears
narrow-petalled, yellow flowers in April that expand very fully.
The stems, which are stiffly erect, and about 12 inches high, are
clothed with finely cut pale green foliage.

ALTHIONEMA (CRUCIFERAE)

A charming family of dwarf-growing rock plants, forming rather
untidy little bushes, with leaves mostly of a glaucous blue colour.
The flowers are borne in crowded terminal racemes. All the
species can be cultivated on the warmer slopes of the rock garden,
and increased by seed or cuttings in the summer. They are all
deep-rooted, and dislike disturbance or damp soil.

4. armenum.—Warm, sunny position, requiring a deep root-run
of a light, dry, stony nature. It does well in limestone. It is of
dwarf habit, growing only 3 or 4 inches high, with dense spikes
of small, purplish-rose-coloured flowers. Dislikes damp, and is
liable to perish in a wet winter.

42. capitatum.—Same position and soil as the last. Numerous
thick stems, growing only a few inches high, with somewhat acute
linear leaves rather scattered. Small and inconspicuous flowers.
It is chiefly remarkable for its dense heads of boat-shaped seed-
vessels with entire wings.

Ae. cepeacfolium (syn. Hutchinsta rotundifolia). — Requires
a deep, dry root-run in a sunny position. Densely tufted
stems, rising 3 to 6 inches, with glaucous, green, fleshy leaves ?
to 1 inch long, those from the root obovate, those on the
stem sessile. Flowers pale lilac, with a yellow eye, half an inch
across, in cylindrical, crowded, erect racemes. A pretty and
attractive plant.

42. cordatum.—Sunny position; deep root-run. A shrubby
little plant, growing 9g inches high, with rather large sulphur-yellow
flowers in dense heads in August. Propagated by cuttings or seed.
A good rock plant for a dry bank.

LE. cordifolium.—Sunny position and dry, deep root-run
required. A compact, shrubby little plant, growing only about 6
inches high. Short, crowded leaves, and rather large, rosy-pink
flowers in clusters. Blooms in June and July. Hardy in dry
situation, and propagated by seed or cuttings. A handsome
species.

LE. grandifiorum.—Demands same position and soil. Forms
quite a little bush about 12 inches high, with rather long slender

MEPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 223

branches and leaves oblong, linear. Spikes of rosy-purple flowers
of a good size freely produced in June. Quite hardy, and easily
propagated by seed or cuttings. One of the best of the genus, and
should be grown in every garden.

AE. theridewum.—Requires a deep, dry soilon a warm bank. A
dwarf-growing species with white flowers. A good plant, and a new
addition to this already large genus.

AS, persicum.—Deep soil; dry, warm position. A prostrate and
free-growing plant, with rosy-purple flowers in the summer ; a good
plant.

4, rubescens.—Same soil and position. A showy species with
large rose-coloured flowers and elliptical seed-vessels.

AE. spectosum.—Same soil and position. A densely tufted species,
growing 3 to 4 inches high, with ovate, oblong leaves, and freely
producing rather large rose-pink flowers during the summer. Seed-
vessels toothed and tinged with purple. One of the best and
showiest of the genus.

A great deal of confusion exists amongst the Athionemas, and
it is difficult to get them true to name. Those already described
are about the best of the genus. The following are, however, in
cultivation, and all require similar treatment, namely, a deep, dry
root-run and a sunny position.

. bourget.—F lowers rose-coloured and of good size.

A, chloraecfolium.—Leaves slightly papillose and scabrid at the
edges. Rather large rose-coloured flowers.

LE, cordiophyllum.—Stiff, densely leaved stems ; leaves sessile,
deltoid, cordate, lobes embracing the stems, lower ones opposite.
Medium-sized rose-coloured flowers. Plant grows 6 to 12 inches
high.

LE. diastrophis, 42, pulchellum.—Both of these are very nearly
akin; the difference lies in the former having longer fruiting
racemes and seed-vessels. Both bear dense heads of small rosy-
lilac coloured flowers.

4. graecum.—Short, numerous stems; small, rosy - purple
flowers.

2. Jucundum.—Dense, shrubby little plant. Glaucous leaves
and pink flowers in July. Grows about 12 inches high.

LE. Moricandianum.—Short stems and leafy, not of dense
growth. Leaves opposite, sessile, obtuse, ovate. Large yellow
flowers.

4. membranaceum.—Grows about 6 inches high, with erect
stems. Small, oblong, linear leaves.

4, rotundifolium.—This is very like 4. opfositifolia, and
should not be confused with . cepeaefolium, from which it is quite
distinct.

224 ROCK GARDENS
> |

4°, sagittatum.—Stiff, many nerved, oblong leaves ; rather large 4
white flowers.

A. thesitfolium.—Grows about 18 inches high, with slender
twiggy stems and long narrow leaves. Large pink flowers marked
with purple.

A. tenue, heterophylium, and cespitosum.—Are all densely tufted,
dwarf-growing species, with pink or white flowers.

42. thomasianum.—Dwarf-growing ; glaucous leaves, and rosy-
pink flowers.

AE. trinervium.—Dwarf-growing ; leaves hard and three-nerved ;
large white flowers.

. saxatile.—Twiggy branches with rosy-purple flowers, and
freely produced.

AjyucA (LABIATAE)

A dwarf, free-growing genus of plants of procumbent habit.
Though not of first value for the rock garden, they are useful for
carpeting. Are all of the easiest culture in ordinary soil, and are
indifferent to position.

A. genevensis (syn. A. alpina and A. Rugose).—Creeping habit ;
bright, shiny green leaves. Flowers vary in colour from blue to
rose and white, in spikes about 4 to 5 inches long. This plant
should not be associated with the choicer alpines, which it would
quickly overrun. There is a variety of this plant known as JA.
genevensis Brockbankii which is of dwarfer habit.

A. genevensts crispa (syn. A. metallica crispa).—The leaves of
this variety are curly and have a metallic sheen. Spikes of deep
blue flowers.

A. repftans.—A native plant useful for carpeting in the wilder
parts on account of its vigorous growth and dark green purplish
leaves and blue flowers. There are three varieties :—

A. reptans alba.—A white form.

A. reptans atropurpurea.—Dark bronze-purple leaves.

A. reptans variegata.—Variegated silvery leaves.

ALCHEMILLA (Rosaceae), Ladies’ Mantle

A genus of but little value except for their foliage. Light sandy
soil and open situation suits them all. Easily increased by division
of roots, and seed.

A. alpina.—Has evergreen silvery leaves, and grows about 6
inches high. Small greenish flowers in July. Other varieties are:
A. maxima.—Large leaves, downy underneath ; 12 inches high.

A. pentaphylla.—Grows 6 inches high ; silvery-white leaves.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 225

ALuIUM (LILIACEAE)

A genus of bulbous plants with compact heads of flower, and not
particularly suitable for the rock garden. They all like rich loam
in any position. They are of easy culture and readily increased
by offsets. The following are the most suitable :—

A. acuminatum.—Deep rose. Grows about g inches high, and
flowers in July.

A. acutangulum (syn. A. angulosum).—Heads of rosy-purple
flowers in July. About 9 inches high.

A. caeruleum.—Pale blue flowers in May. Grows about 6 to 9
inches high.

A. cyaneum.—Blue flowers ; dwarf habit.

A. glaucum.—Purplish blue flowers ; glaucous foliage. Grows
about 9g inches high.

A. grandiflorum.—Pendant clusters of reddish-purplish flowers.
About 9 inches high.

A. Holparowskearium.—Heads of light rose-coloured flowers of
a good size.

A. narcissiforum (syn. A. pedemontanum).—Pink flowers rather
like a chinodoxa in shape. Grows about 6 inches high.

A. triquetrum.—Pretty heads of drooping white flowers.

ALyssuM (CRUCIFERAE), Madwort

A numerous genus, of which, however, only the best are worthy
of cultivation in the rock garden. They are all of the easiest
culture in almost any light soil in a sunny position. Readily
increased by cuttings of the young shoots.

A. alpestre.—Sunny position in rather poor soil. Forms compact
tufts of hoary leaves. Only about 3 inches high, the whole plant
being covered with minute, shining, star-like hairs. Golden-
yellow flowers very freely produced from May to July. A pretty
plant. There is a double variety of this which is rather better in
colour.

A. gemonense.—A dwarf-growing variety about 6 inches high.
Flowers good, pure pale yellow colour, in corymbs.

A. Idacum.—A sandy soilinsun. A tiny, prostrate species. The
small roundish leaves, which grow in pairs down the stem, are of a
true silvery colour. Yellow flowers in summer. Fairly hardy, and
can be increased by cuttings or division. One of the gems of the
genus, and worthy of a choice place in the garden.

A. moellendorfianum,—Sun and sandy soil. Forms a compact
plant 6 inches high, with silvery-grey leaves and yellow flowers

15

226 ROCK GARDENS

freely produced in June and July. Propagation by division and
cuttings. After flowering, cut back to prevent the plant getting
bare and “leggy.”

A. maritimum.—Hot, dry, sandy soil. It is an annual with
sweet-scented white flowers. It sows itself freely about, and is
useful for tops of walls, etc. It is a native.

A. montanum.—Sunny position in sandy soil. Spreads into
compact tufts about 3 inches high. Glaucous green foliage covered
with stellate hairs plainly visible. Fragrant yellow flowers, like
alpine wallfiowers, in early summer. Quite hardy, and readily in-
creased by cuttings or division. It is a very attractive feature when
grown into a large mass partially falling over some rock.

A. podolicum.—Sun, and light dry soil. A dainty little species,
only growing some 3 inches high, with small white flowers freely
produced. Is quite hardy, but not of any special value.

A. pyrenaicum—Sun, and sandy soil. A diminutive species
growing only 3 to 4 inches high, with grey downy leaves and
white fragrant flowers. Quite worthy of a place.

A. saxatile.—Sun, in any light soil. Spreading habit and fairly
rapid growth. About g to 12 inches high. Covered from March
to May with a profusion of golden-yellow flowers. Rather
dislikes heavy, moist, rich soils, where it is liable to perish
in the winter, otherwise of easiest culture. Readily increased
by cuttings. An old favourite, and should have a place in every
garden.

A. saxatile, fl. p1.—A double variety of above. Blooms quite
as profusely, and is altogether rather an improvement.

A. saxatile citrinum.—A variety with pale, sulphur-coloured
flowers, which are very pretty. Another indispensable plant.

Old plants of the last three-named varieties should be cut
back after flowering to prevent their getting bare and leggy.

A. saxatile,“ Tom Thumb.”—A very pretty, diminutive form of
saxatile, forming compact little cushions some 3 inches high. Also
a plant for a choice spot.

A. serpyllifolium.—Fully exposed position in sandy soil. Forms
small bushy plants about 3 to 4 inches high, which become as
compact as moss. Grey-green leaves, and yellow flowers freely
produced. A dainty and attractive little plant.

A. spinosum (syn. Koniga sfinosa).—Light soil and exposed
position. Plants forma pretty little silvery bush. Leaves covered
with minute stellate hairs. Flowers insignificant and not pretty.
This plant merits a place in some not over-choice part on account
of its distinctive appearance. Easily increased from cuttings.
There is also a very pretty form, 4. s. vosem, with small rosy
blossoms. A more attractive plant.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 227

AMPHICOME (BIGNONIACEAE)

Very pretty evergreen Himalayan plants, rather like a Pents-
temon. They unfortunately are only half hardy, but are well worth
trying in favoured localities, giving them a position sheltered from
cold winds and where they can be protected from severe frosts.
Increased by cuttings struck in gentle heat.

A. arguta—Requires sheltered position in sandy loam and leaf-
soil. Dwarf-growing, shrubby plant about 12 to 18 inches high.
Neat pinnate foliage. Drooping, rosy-purple flowers at the axils,
and also in terminal racemes. Blooms in August.

A. Emodi.—Dwarfer-growing than the last, being only from 9
to 12 inches high. Rose and orange-coloured bell-shaped flowers
borne in axillary racemes in August. A very handsome plant

ANAGALLIS (PRIMULACEAE), Pimpernel

Pretty dwarf plants, mostly annual, but so dainty that they may
be used where bare spots occur in bog or rock garden.

A. Monelli (syn. A. Linifolia).—An Italian species with large
deep blue flowers shaded rose.

A. tenella.—Our native bog Pimpernel. Creeping habit. Small
round leaves on slender stems, among which appear the tiny pink
flowers. A pretty and dainty little annual for the bog garden.

ANDROMEDA (ERICACEAE)

A genus of dwarf shrubs nearly allied to the Heath family. There
is only one true species of Andromeda known ; the others generally
known as Andromedas really belong to the families of Cassandra,
Cassiope, and Pieris.

They are interesting plants, but not easy to grow, doing best
in moist sandy peat in cool, but not shady spots, and should be
associated with the dwarfer-growing plants.

A. angustifolia (syn. Cassandra angustifolia).—A pretty, small
evergreen shrub growing about 2 feet high, producing sprays
of white flowers in terminal racemes in April. Propagated by
layers.

A. calyculata (syn. Cassandra calyculata).—Snow-white flowers
in April. Very similar to the last.

A. Fastigiata (syn. Cassiope Fastigiata)—Cool position, fully
exposed to sun and air in deep, moist, peaty soil well-drained. A
beautiful heath-like shrub growing about 12 inches high. The
leaves, which overlap along the stems, have a thin, silvery, chaffy

228 ROCK GARDENS

margin, and a deep and broad keel by which it may be distinguished
from A. tetragona, which it otherwise much resembles. White,
waxy, bell-shaped flowers borne at the end of each branch. A
beautiful little shrub, and worthy of some care, though difficult to
cultivate. It should have stones placed round the neck of the plant
and should be pegged down when first planted.

A. floribunda (syn. Pieris floribunda).—Requires the same
position and soil as the last. A beautiful, compact evergreen shrub
growing about 3 feet high, and producing white, waxy, bell-shaped
flowers very freely. It is of easy culture.

A. hypnoides (syn. Cassiope hypnoides).—Requires a position,
fully exposed to the sun and air, in moist, very gritty, sandy, well-
drained, peaty soil. A tiny, spreading, moss-like shrub, only grow-
ing I to 4 inches high, with small wiry branches densely clothed

with minute bright green leaves. Small, white, waxy, drooping ~

flowers borne on reddish stems in June. It is one of the most
beautiful and most difficult to grow of alpine plants, and is seldom
seen in a robust state. The chief difficulty is procuring healthy
plants to start with. It is advisable to carefully peg down the main
branches, and place stones round neck of plant to prevent evapora-
tion. Drought is fatal to its successful cultivation.

A. japonica (syn. Pieris japonica).— Open, though sheltered
position, in good, moist, peaty soil. A graceful evergreen shrub
growing some 3 feet high. It is of slow growth. Flowers white,
borne in long pendulous clusters in May. Quite hardy. A choice
shrub for the rock garden.

A. polifolium (Wild Rosemary).—The only true species of
Andromeda, and a native of Great Britain. It requires an open
position in moist, peaty soil, in which it forms a compact little shrub
about 12 inches high, with beautiful, very dark glossy green leaves,
glaucous beneath. Drooping, bell-shaped flowers of a lovely
delicate pale pink shade, produced in May. Easy of culture and
quite hardy, and can be propagated by layers or seed. One of the
choicest shrubs for the garden. There are several varieties, which
differ principally in colour of flowers.

A. tetragona (syn. Cassiope tetragona),—Half-shady position in
very moist, well-drained sandy peat. Of compact habit, seldom
more than 8 inches high. Deep green foliage. The whole plant has
the appearance of a miniature Cypress. Beautiful drooping, white,
waxy, bell-shaped flowers rather like Lily-of-the-valley, produced
singly. Blooms in April. Quite hardy, and one of the most
delightful and choicest of peat-loving shrubs. Easily increased
by division. It may be distinguished from A. Fastigiata,
which it much resembles, by the absence of the chaffy margin
of leaf.

MUPHABE TICAL LIST ‘OF PLANTS ‘229

ANDROSACE (PRIMULACEAE)

The choicest and most typical plants of the highest mountain
ranges. All are beautiful and gems for the rock garden. Whilst
some are of easy cultivation, others are amongst the most difficult
of alpines to grow. They all require a deep root-run in well-drained,
gritty soil. Some varieties will grow on the level, while others need
to be planted in vertical fissures of the rock, where they cannot
suffer from damp lying about them, which quickly proves fatal,
though at the same time they require moisture at their roots.

It is advisable to cover those kinds that have hairy leaves with a
sheet of glass during the winter to protect the foliage from exces-
sive moisture. A clear pure air, free from dust, is essential ; they are
almost sure to perish in a smoky atmosphere.

A. alpina.—Vertical fissure shaded from the sun and protected
from damp overhead, though it requires moisture at its roots, which
must also have free escape. Requires gritty, fibrous loam mixed
with pieces of sandstone, and at least 15 inchesdeep. Forms dense
cushions about 3 inches high, with pink flowers in June. A lovely
plant, but difficult to grow.

A. arachnoidea.—Can be grown on the level in fine, sandy, gritty
loam. Grows about 3 inches high, forming little rosettes which
in the early part of the year are not covered with the white silky
hairs that appear later. Flowers white, with a distinct red eye,
towards the end of May. Fairly easily cultivated.

A. brigantiaca.—Requires sloping ground, half-shady position,
and sandy soil. Dwarf-growing, with deep green foliage, free from
the characteristic fine down. White flowers. This species does
not require so much protection from the rain as do some of the
others.

A. carnea.—Can be planted on a level, exposed spot in a mixture
of peat and sandy loam at least a foot deep. A distinctive plant,
growing about 3 inches high. The small pointed leaves, instead
of forming rosettes, as most of the other kinds do, make a dense
spiny cushion rather like Sazxifraga Juniferifolia. The flowers
rose-coloured, with a yellow eye, are freely produced in May. It
is not difficult to cultivate, and can be raised from seed. It is one
of the best of this attractive genus. A. ex¢m7a is a larger form.

A. Chamagasme (syn. A. villosa Chamaejasme).—Plant in a
position fully exposed to the sun, in light sandy loam mixed with
pieces of sandstone. The surface of the ground should also be
covered with pieces of stone. The foliage forms rather large rosettes
of fringed leaves a few inches high. Flowers white at first, with a
yellow eye, changing to crimson. Blooms in June, and fairly freely.

230 ROCK GARDENS

Not difficult to grow. A lovely little plant which no rock garden
is complete without.

A. Char pentiert.—Forms a dense cushion with bright red flowers.
Will do on a level in deep, gritty loam.

A. ciliata.— Requires sunny fissure in deep, gritty, sandy loam.
Densely packed leaves, glabrous on the surface and downy on the
margins. Carmine-red flowers in June.

A. cylindsica.—Requires a sunny fissure and deep root-run in
gritty loam. Stems rise about half an inch, with leaves which form
columns on the stems. Tufted habit. It has pure white solitary
flowers in April and May. This is, by some, thought to be a
variety of A. ciliata.

A. foliosa.—Requires an open situation on the level in full sun.
Does best in good, deep, heavy limestone soil, with pieces of stone
added. Grows about 6 to 8 inches high, with rather large,
coarse, hairy leaves. It is free-growing, and will form a plant a
foot across in one year. Rather large umbels of rosy-lilac flowers.
A good plant, though much coarser than the type.

A. glacialis.—Requires fully exposed, open, sunny position in
wet, very gritty soil, composed almost entirely of granite chips.
Forms spreading tufts, the leaves of which are completely hidden
in summer by the mass of the most lovely, pure, soft, rose-pink
flowers. A gem amongst gems, and as difficult to grow as it is
lovely, being one of those plants that have so far baffled nearly all
attempts to cultivate. It comes from the high moraines, and is
found growing there in wet debris.

A. helvetica.—Requires partial exposure to the sun in a well-
drained spot tightly wedged between stones, which will guard it
from excessive moisture, whilst allowing the roots to work into the
gritty soil behind. It forms dense little masses of tiny ciliated
leaves in diminutive rosettes and grows fairly quickly. The white
flower, with a yellowish eye, is almost twice as large as the rosette
from which it rises. Blooms in July, and very freely. Hardy, but
requires careful cultivation, and is but short-lived. It is essentially
a limestone plant. A lovely little gem. Propagated by seeds.

A. imbricata (syn. A. argentea).—Sunny situation in light, well-
drained loam ; requires granite. Forms dense tufts of white, silvery
rosettes. The flowers are stemless and rest so thickly on the
rosettes as to overlap each other. Propagated by seeds and division.

A. lactea.—Should have an eastern or western aspect, in gritty
loam. Vigorous habit. Numerous white flowers, with a yellow
throat, borne in umbels in June. Forms compact rosettes. Of
easy culture.

A. Laggeri.—Light, gritty soil in partially shaded situation.
Tiny rosettes of sharp pointed leaves. Bright pink flowers, with a

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 231

lighter eye, freely produced in April. Of fairly easy culture, and
increased by seed or division.

A. lanuginosa. — Half-shady position in good loam. Forms
trailing, many branched stems, with leaves nearly an inch long, and
covered with white silky hairs. Of fairly rapid growth in a position
it likes. Delicate, rose-coloured flowers, with a yellow eye, borne
in umbels, and freely produced from May to October. Hardy and
easily propagated by seeds or layers. It is advisable, when possible,
to protect from rain during the winter. A most attractive plant,
which should be so placed that its trailing stems can fall down over
some rock.

A. t. Leichtlini (syn. A. Oculata).—Plant to fall over the edge of
a rock in a half-shady position. Prefers a light, limestone soil.
Foliage not so downy, and flowers larger and of a paler colour
than the last, of which it is a variety. Quite hardy, and of easy
culture in light soils.

A. primuloides.—Likes a sheltered, half-shady situation, protected
from moisture overhead, in gritty soil. Forms rosettes of bright
green leaves and produces rosy-lilac flowers. A rare species, but
no better than many of those better known.

A. fubescens.—Sunny crevice in deep, sandy, gritty peat.
Densely packed, ratner hoary leaves, with large, solitary white
flowers scarcely rising above the plant. Flowering freely in July,
it is of easy culture, and is a very attractive little plant.

A. pyrenaica.—Requires fissures in rocks in deep, sandy, and
peaty loam. It can also be grown on the level in similar soil and
protected from drought by half-buried stones. Forms a compact
mass of tiny grey, downy rosettes. The flowers are white, with a
yellow eye, and rise about 4 to 4 of an inch over the plant. It is
closely allied to A. helvetica and A. imbricata, and is not of
particularly easy cultivation.

A. sarmentosa.—Prefers an open, sunny situation in deep, well-
drained, sandy loam mixed with limestone. Forms dense rosettes
of silvery foliage, from which spring runners bearing rosettes at
their extremities, which, if pegged down and covered with sandy
soil, will root quickly. Flowers, which are freely produced, are
rose-coloured, with a white eye, and borne in trusses, rather resem-
bling the Verbena. Blooms in May. Of easy culture. It is very
advisable to protect during the winter with a sheet of glass. The
surface of the ground under the rosettes should be covered with
finely broken sandstone to keep them dry.

A.s. Chumbyi.—It requires the same treatment as A. sarmentosa,
which it much resembles, except that it is a stronger-growing plant
and the flower is deeper in colour and borne on shorter stems.
It is quite one of the best species of this attractive genus, and

239 ROCK GARDENS

should be grown in every rock garden. It also is the better of pro-
tection during the winter. It is a hybrid, 4. sarmentosa x villosa.

A. spinulifera.—Tufts of spatulate leaves from which spring
upright stems 3 to 8 inches high, bearing heads of rose-coloured
flowers with yellow centres. A new introduction from China
requiring treatment similar to A. sarmentosa.

A, villosa.—Plant in fine, sandy loam on level, in sunny position.
Dwarf-growing ; leaves covered with silky hairs, mostly on the under-
side. Pale rose-coloured flowers, yellowish eye, in umbels about 3
inches high, freely produced. Easily cultivated ; a dainty little plant.

A. vitaliana (syn. Douglasia vitaliana).—Partially shaded situa-
tion in moderately damp, light, sandy, calcareous soil. Has little
narrow leaves about an inch high. Yellow flowers of a good size and
colour. Forms a good tuft in right position, but is a shy bloomer.

A. wulfeniana.—Should be planted on the level in light, sandy
soil. Very compact foliage and deep rose-coloured flowers barely
rising above the leaves. A good plant, and not very difficult to
grow. Other varieties are—

A. coronopifolia (syn. A. lactiflora).—Biennial ; white flowers.

A. Hausmanni.—Like A. ciliata, with red flowers.

A. obtustfolia.—White, with yellow eye. Pretty.

A. sempervivoides.—Small rosettes and umbels of rosy-purple
flowers in May.

ANEMONE (RANUNCULACEAE), Wind Flower

These, though more strictly meadow rather than rock plants, are
of such beauty and variety that they should, the best of them at
least, be grown in every rock garden. They are all of the easiest
culture in any good, deep, warm, rather rich loam in some open,
though partially shaded spot. To ensure success, in preference to
old plants, get seedlings or good young plants to start with; or,
failing these, seed, which should be sown as soon as procured,
for they make great woody rootstocks, which are nearly impossible
to move without damaging them. All the following are deciduous,
and are a selection of the best and most suitable kinds for the
rock garden.

A. alpina (syn. Pulsatilla alfina).—Good loam. Open, rather
damp position. Fern-like foliage, sometimes clothed with long
silky hairs, growing from 6 inches to a foot in height. Of fairly
vigorous habit. Big, starry flowers, white inside and pale blue
outside, in May. Increased by seed or division. A dainty and
lovely plant.

A. al. sulphurea.—A yellow form of the above, rather larger, and
also very lovely, and requiring similar treatment.

A. angulosa (syn. A. Hepatica).—In any open spot in good loam,

ALPHABETICAL. EIST ‘OF PLANTS 233

A large form of the common Hefatica, with sky-blue flowers about
23 inches across, blooming in February. It is of free growth, and
is more suitable for margins of walks through woods than the rock
garden. Varieties of the above are—

A. an. alba.—A white form,

A. an. lilacina, gd. fil.—Large lilac flowers.

A, an. major.—A large variety of A. angulosa.

A. an. rosea.—A pink form, rather scarce.

A. baldensis.—A rocky crevice in peaty loam in partial shade.
Grows about 6 inches high. Flowers white inside and pale pink
outside. A dainty little plant, and one of the best of the family.
Easy of cultivation, and readily grown from seed.

A. blanda.—Good loam in sunny spot. Grows about 6 inches
high. Spreads slowly. Deep sapphire-blue flowers. Is quite
hardy, of the easiest culture, and quite one of the best of the alpine
Anemones. There are two varieties :—

A. b. alba.—A pretty white form.

A. b. scythinica.—Large white flowers, pale blue on the outside.

A. fulgens.—Partially shaded position in good, rather moist, rich
loam ; likes burnt earth. Hard, deeply lobed leaves, about 6 to 8
inches high. Flowers of a most vivid scarlet, in April. Hardy
and easily grown from seed. Words can scarcely describe the
appearance of a large mass of these plants when in bloom and the
sun shining on them: the effect produced is quite dazzling. With
me, at least, I find they are rather uncertain. Good young plants
are essential to success. There are many varieties of shade, and
some double, but the type is the best.

A. Halleri.—Sunny position in deep, well-drained, rich soil.
Deep lilac-coloured flowers of good size, produced singly on erect,
slender stems about 9 inches high, in April. This is the finest and
perhaps the rarest of the Pasque-flowers.

A. Hepatica.—Half-shady position in good loam and leaf-mould.
The well-known Aefatica of gardens, growing about 6 inches high,
and making neat little plants. Pale blue flowers, rising just over
the leaf, in February. Of the easiest culture, but dislikes disturb-
ance, and is beloved of slugs. There are many varieties.

. H. alba.—White form ; less robust.

. Hf. alba, fi. pil.—Double.

. HZ, coerulea.—Pale blue.

. H. coerulea, fi. pl.—Double ; rather darker shade.

. H. “ Royal Blue.”—Deep shade.

H. rubra.—Bright red. Poor grower.

. H. rubra, fl. pl—Double ; rather darker shade.
narcisstfiora.—Any position in good, deep loam. Soft,
velvety leaves, much lobed. White flowers tinged with pink on the

coh ee oe

234 ROCK GARDENS

outside, and borne in umbels on stems about 18 inches high in June.
Propagated by seed. Avery beautiful and rather neglected Anemone
of the easiest culture. It should be found in every garden.

A. nemorosa.—Half-shady position in leaf-soil. Grows about
6 inches high. Flowers generally white. The well-known native
Wood Anemone, of which there are several good varieties.

A. n. coerulea—Very nearly, if not identical with A. 2.
robinsoniana.

A. n. robinsoniana.—Any position in loam; leaf-mould with a
little sand added. Soft, pale blue flowers about 6 inches high.
Quite hardy, and easily grown, and increased by division. A most
lovely and dainty form of the Wood Anemone, and should be freely
used everywhere. There are several varieties, giving different shades
of blue, purple, and rose, and are equally attractive.

A. palmata.—Level, sunny position, in deep, cool peat or peaty
loam. It has leathery lobed leaves rather like a Cyclamen. Erect
stems, bearing glossy, golden-yellow flowers in May and June. Of
fairly vigorous growth, and quite easily cultivated. A handsome
plant, readily increased by seed or division. There are two varieties,
albida and alba.

A. patens.— Another Pasque-flower very like A. Pulsazzlla, only
a little larger, but not of as good a colour.

A. pratensis.—Sunny position in loam. Leaves finely cut, and
pendulous flowers of a deep purple. Differs from the following in
having rather smaller flowers.

A. Puisatilla (Pasque-flower).—Plant in various aspects to secure
a longer bloom. Does best in a light, dry loam. In heavy soil it
is rather inclined to run too much to foliage. Likes chalk. Pretty
finely cut foliage and violet-blue flowers, hairy on the outside.
Golden-yellow stamens. Blooms April and May. Quite hardy,
and of easiest culture. A lovely and quite indispensable plant, and
one of the best of the Anemones. ‘There are four varieties.

A. P. alba,—A rather dirty white form.

A. P. lilacina.—Pale lilac.

A. P. rubra.—Rosy-brown form. Golden stamens. Much
smaller than the type.

A. P. Mrs Van-der-Elst.—Shell pink and very beautiful.

A. rivularis—A wet, cool spot in the bog garden suits this
Anemone best. Grows about 2 feet high. Leaves villous. Rather
small white flowers, with deep purple anthers. Very easily cultivated.
Isa most choice and lovely plant for the bog garden. Is readily
grown from seed.

A. vernalis.—Deep, cool, rather moist peaty loam in a half-shady
position. The dwarfest-growing of the Pasque-flowers, forming
compact tufts, from which rise on shaggy stems large goblet-shaped

AUPRMABETICAR) EIST OF PLANTS 235

flowers, pure white within, and covered with golden-brown hairs
without. Is not of particularly easy culture ; seedlings are best to
start with. These, unfortunately, vary a good deal, as some of the
flowers are of rather a greenish-white ; but if the true white form
be obtained, no more exquisite plant can be grown in the rock
garden.

The above are the best of the Anemones for the rock garden.
Others, though also very lovely, are better suited for naturalising
in the woods. The following are the best for this purpose :—

. apennina.—Clear, pale blue flowers.

. Coronaria.—Various shades of colours.

. memorosa, and its varieties.
sylvestris.—Pretty white flowers.

AS AN AA A

ANOMATHECA (see LAPEYROUSIA)

ANTENNARIA (CoMPOSITAE), Cat’s-ear

Are of only very secondary value for the rock garden. They
are all dwarf and neat-growing plants with silvery leaves, and are
of the easiest culture, indifferent either to soil or aspect. Their
chief merit lies in the colour of their foliage, and are useful for
carpeting bare spots.

A. alpina (syn. Gnaphalium alpina).—White, downy foliage.

A. dioica (syn. Gnaphalium adioicum).—Silvery leaves and pink
flowers.

A. tomentosa.—Only grows about 1 inch high. Silvery foliage.

ANTHEMIS (ComposiTaE), Chamomile

Of those in cultivation few are worthy of a place in the rock
garden. All of easy culture in any position or soil. Propagated
by division.

A. Aizoon (see Achillea ageratifolia).

A. Biebersteiniana.—The pinnately divided leaves are covered
with a white, silky down. Large, yellow, composite flowers, about
12 inches high. Rather a showy species.

A. macedonica.—Spreading tufts of silvery-grey leaves about
6 inches high, and large, solitary white flowers in July. A pretty
plant.

A. montana.—Silvery-grey tufts of finely cut leaves and white
flowers, freely produced from May to August. Only grows 6 inches
high.

These represent about the best of the genus,

2.36 ROCK GARDENS

ANTHERICUM (LILIACEAE)

These, though scarcely suitable for a rock garden, should, on
account of their beauty, be given a place amongst the more vigorous
plants or shrubs. They all do well in rich, moist, sandy loam and
partial shade.

A. Hookeri (syn. Bulbinella Hookeri).—Peaty bog suits this
variety best. Bright yellow flowers growing 18 to 24 inches tall.
Blooms in June. A showy plant.

A. Liliago (St. Bernard’s Lily).—Pure white flowers in spikes, in
August. Grows about 12 to 18 inches high. Free-flowering.

A. Liliastrum (syn. Paradisia Liliastrum, St Bruno’s Lily).—
Cool soil and half shade. Spikes of white, lily-like flowers in early
summer. About 2 feet high. A very pretty plant, and one that
slugs appreciate.

There are varieties of this, 4. Z. major and A. L. giganteum ;
both showy plants.

ANTHYLLIS (LEGUMINOSAE), Kidney Vetch

Dwarf-growing plants of the Pea-flower order. Pretty and
attractive rock plants.

A. montana.—Dry, sunny aspect in loam. Compact-growing,
with white, downy, pinnate leaves about 6 inches high. Rose-
coloured or purplish flowers in dense heads in July. Quite hardy,
and propagated by division or seeds. One of the best little rock
plants.

A. m. atrorubens.—Is a variety of the above, with deep, red-
coloured flowers.

A. Vulneraria.—Dwarf-growing, with yellow flowers, useful for
dry banks. There are red and white varieties.

ANTIRRHINUM (SCROPHULARIACEAE), Snapdragon

There are a few of this genus of Snapdragon which are suitable
for the rock garden. They all require a warm, dry spot.

A. Asarina.—Hot, dry position in light, poor soil. Creeping
habit and of rapid growth. Clammy, woolly, rounded leaves.
Creamy-white flowers June to September. Afree bloomer. Ause-
ful and pretty plant for old walls, or growing overa rock. It dislikes
excessive moisture, and, being rather brittle, should be sheltered
from the wind.

A. glutinosum.—Also requires a hot, dry position. Of trailing
habit, with downy leaves and quantities of pale, primrose-coloured
flowers all the summer. A charming plant for a dry spot, and also
rather brittle.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 237

A. sempervirens.—Of more bushy habit. It has whitish flowers
and requires same treatment as Asarvina.

APHYLLANTHES (LILIACEAE)

A. monspeliensis—Requires a sunny position in almost pure
sand. Rush-like leaves about 9 inches high, and clear blue flowers.
A pretty plant.

AQUILEGIA (RANUNCULACEAE), Columbine

The genus of Columbines includes some of the fairest and
daintiest flowers that can be grown in the rock garden, some of
which, unfortunately, are not particularly easy to cultivate. They
all like deep, moist, rich loam, thoroughly drained, in a sunny
position. They come readily from seed, but interbreed so freely
that it is difficult to obtain them true.

A. alpina.—Requires a sheltered but not shady spot in deep loam
and leaf-mould soil with quick drainage. Bears lovely, big, soft
clear blue flowers on dainty stems about 18 inches high. Is of easy
culture. One of the most beautiful plants for the rock garden.
This, as with most others of the family, is not easy to get “ true.”
Propagation by seeds. There is also a white variety.

A. canadensis.—Looks its best planted amongst rocks in loamy
soil. Sharply notched leaves and bright scarlet and yellow flowers,
with long spurs, borne on stems about 12 inches high. Blooms in
June. Easily raised from seed. Mana is a dwarf form, and also
very lovely.

A. coerulea.—Sheltered spot in cool, deep loam well drained. Its
exquisite, long-spurred, pale blue flowers, with creamy-white centres,
are borne on slender stems 9 to 12 inches high, and is in flower
from May to September. The plant is, unfortunately, little more
than a biennial, and should be treated as such, for even if it lives
over the second year, it rarely does well. It comes freely from
seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe. It is impossible to
bestow too much praise on this glorious little plant, which is about
the loveliest of a lovely genus.

A. filabellata.—Cool, ordinary soil. Pale green leaves, and waxy-
white, tinted violet-rose flowers. Dwarf of habit and blooms
early.

A. glandulosa.—Requires a position in partial shade, in deep,
moist soil composed of loam, peat,and sand. Dwarf-growing, with
large, handsome blue flowers, with a white centre, borne on slender
stems 9 to 12 inches high in May and June. Another gem, but,

238 ROCK GARDENS

unfortunately, is rather apt to go off unexpectedly. It greatly
dislikes disturbance, so it is advisable to grow from seed.

The above are the most suitable kinds for the rock garden, others
being of rather too tall a habit, but should, when possible, be
naturalised in woods or planted amongst shrubs. The following
are the best kinds for that purpose :—

A. californica.—Thriving in a half-shady position in deep, moist
loam. Deep orange, with slender, bright orange spurs. Liable to
perish after flowering, so seed should be saved. Seedlings usually
come “true.”

A. chrysantha.—Half-shady situation in almost any soil. Grows
as high as 4 feet. Golden-yellow, long-spurred variety.

A. Stuartii—Moist loam, half shade. Large blue and white
flowers in May. Grows about 2 feet high. A fine plant.

There are also many hybrids, most of which are pretty.

ARABIS (CRUCIFERAE), Rock Cress

This genus contains some useful varieties, but none can be
called choice plants. All are of easy culture and will grow in
almost any aspect or soil.

A. albida.—Any soil or aspect. Trailing plant, covered in early
spring with a profusion of snow-white flowers. This well-known
plant needs no further description; there is no rockery or rock
garden from which it is absent.

A. altida, fi. #l—A double variety of the above and an improve-
ment. Flowers last longer, though coming in a little later. There
is also a variegated form of this.

A. androsacea.—Warm position in gritty soil. Tufts of silvery
leaves. Flowers white. An attractive and rare species, and well
worth growing.

A. aubrietotdes.—Of compact habit, only growing about 3 inches
high. Pale pink flowers in May. Quite a pretty plant. It should
be grown in rather a dry position, as it is apt to go off in a damp
spot.

A. Billardieri rosea.—Likes a dry soil in sun. It is a compact
grower, with small pink flowers in April.

A. Sturit.—Any position or soil. Compact grower, with little,
hard, dark green leaves and pretty, pure white flowers. A garden
hybrid, and perhaps the choicest of the family.

The following varieties are of little value except in a botanical
collection :—

A. procurrens.—Dwarf habit and small whitish flowers. Rather
pretty.

A. Ferdinandi Coburgi.—Very dwarf-growing, with white flowers.

APH ABETICAI LIST, OF. PLANTS 239

A. purpurascens.—Grows about 6 inches high, with pale purple
flowers in May.

ARCTOSTAPHYLOS (ERICACEAE)

Very pretty, trailing, mostly evergreen shrubs, for moist, peaty soil.

A. alpina (Black Bearberry).—Moist, peaty loam in half shade.
A deciduous shrub with small-toothed leaves, white or flesh-coloured
flowers in terminal racemes, and bluish-black berries. A rare
native plant.

A. californica.—Peaty loam and half shade. Evergreen shrub
of vigorous growth and trailing habit, with spatulate, leathery leaves
and white flowers in July and August. A useful plant for covering
rockwork.

A. Uva-urst (Bearberry).—Almost any soil, but prefers that of a
peaty nature. Half shade. Dwarf, prostrate-growing shrub, with
dark leathery leaves and pretty rose-coloured flowers clustered at
extremities of the branches. Blooms in July and August, followed
by scarlet berries. One of the best of trailing shrubs, evergreen,
and of easiest culture in almost any soil. Propagated by layers.

ARENARIA (CARYOPHYLLACEAE), Sandwort

A family giving us several very pretty species. Most are of
easy culture and increased by division in early spring or July and
August.

A. balearica.—The only thing this plant needs is a cool and
shady spot ; it is indifferent as to soil. A quick-growing, diminutive
little plant coating the surface of rock with an emerald-green
mantle not a quarter of an inch high, from which in summer
spring countless upright, tiny, star-shaped white flowers borne on
thread-like stems about an inch long. The daintiest little plant
imaginable, which in a moist climate becomes a veritable weed.
But, frail as it looks, do not allow it to encroach on other diminutive
treasures, for it will smother them to death.

A. caesfitosa (syn. A. verna caesfitosa).—A neat little plant
growing about 4 inches high, with very leafy stems. White flowers
during the early summer.

A. gothica.—Very poor, stony soil in sun. A trailing plant with
dark green glossy leaves and pure white flowers. A lovely little
plant, which is apt to perish in any soil but the poorest and stoniest.

A. Huteri.—Requires very sandy, light soil and sun. Only grows
about 3 to 4 inches high, with large white blossoms. Top dress
with sand and leaf-mould. A delightful little plant.

A. laricifolia—Likes a high ledge in sandy loam. Dwarf-

240 ROCK GARDENS

spreading plant about 4 inches high, with very narrow leaves
arranged in clusters and pretty bell-shaped white flowers. Increased
by division. A charming little plant.

A. montana.—Light sandy loam in partial shade. A fairly quick-
growing plant of trailing habit. Narrow dark green leaves and a
profusion of large pure white flowers in early summer. Seed and
division. One of the most attractive flowers of early summer, and
should be grown so as to fall over the face of a rock.

A. m. grandiflora.—Very similar to the above. Flowers larger.
Flowers in June.

A. purpurascens.—Ordinary soilinsun. Prostrate habit. Densely
tufted, narrow, pointed, glossy leaves, with pale purplish, star-shaped
flowers in May. A free bloomer. Propagated by division or
seed. A very pretty little plant.

A. verna.—Light sandy soil in sun. Grows in neat, prostrate tufts
of emerald-green leaves, awl-shaped, with numerous small, starry
white flowers in April. Also an attractive little plant, readily pro-
pagated by seed.

A. multicaules.—Like A. balearica, but larger flowers and more
ovate leaves.

A. tetraquetra,—White flowers and prostrate habit. A pretty
little plant.

Other varieties grown, but of more botanical than garden interest.

ARETHUSA BULBOSA

Shady position in very wet soil, composed ot spongy peat and
sphagnum moss. Hardy American orchid with solitary rose-purple
flowers, sweet-scented and very lovely. A very difficult plant to
cultivate.

ARMERIA (PLUMBAGINACEAE), Thrift

Well-known plants of easy culture and much beauty.

A. caespitosa.—Well - drained crevice in rocks in sun. The
dwarfest of the genus, only growing 1 to2 inches high. Forms tufts
of grassy foliage. Pale pink flowers in June. Very pretty.

A. cephalotes (syns. A. latifolia and A. formosa).—Sandy loam
in sun. Grass-like leaves about 8 inches high in dense tufts, from
which spring tall stems 15 to 20 inches high, each bearing round,
dense heads of closely packed flowers of a bright rose colour.
Quite easy of cultivation, and readily increased by division or seed.
Colour liable to variation when grown from seed. There is a white
form, alba, also a handsome plant.

A. maritima (syn. A. vulgaris)—The well-known Sea Pink of
Great Britain, growing in very sandy soil. There are several

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 241

varieties :—A white form, a/va ; a pink form, vosea ; and laucheana,
a bright rosy-pink.

A. setacea.—Sunny position in vertical crevice. Narrow, acute
leaves in denserosettes. Distinct. Grows 3 inches high, and rosy-
pink flowers from April to June.

Other varieties are advertised in catalogues, but all are very
similar to A. maritima, only with flowers of different shades of pink.

ARNEBIA ECHIOIDES, The Prophet Flower

Partial shade in rich, well-drained loam. A compact-growing and
well-known plant, with its primrose-yellow flowers, which open with
five black spots on the corolla, gradually fading away. The spikes
of flower are about 15 inches high and continually produced. A
very charming plant, and well worthy of a spot in the rock garden.
Propagated by cuttings in the autumn.

ARNICA (COMPOSITAE)

Hardy, dwarf perennials allied to the Groundsel. Increased by
seed or division in spring.

A. montana.—Deep, peaty, soil. A pretty plant, growing about
12 inches high. Tufted habit, with large heads of composite flowers
of a rich golden-orange colour.

A. Pallens.—A sulphur-coloured form.

A. Chamissonis.—Rather smaller in habit and flowers ; neither so
brilliant in colour nor as large as monfana. Also requires deep,
peaty soil.

ARONICUM GLACIALE (syn. DORONICUM GLACIALE)

Requires rather heavy loam and half shade. Grows about 6 to
8 inches high, with big broad leaves, and large, clear, yellow flowers
about 2 to 3 inches across, borne on short leafy stems. The flowers
are rather like the Doronicums in appearance.

ARTEMISIA (COMPOSITAE), Southernwood, Wormwood

Dwarf-growing, half-shrubby perennial plants with silvery-grey
leaves, but only of secondary value for the rock garden. The
following are a selection :—

A. Baumgarteniz.—Sun, in ordinary sandy loam. Silvery foliage
growing about 6 inches high.

A. brachyphylla splendens.—Sun and loam. Silvery leaves, and
of creeping habit. A nice little plant.

A. sevicea.—Suitable for a hot spot. Silky white leaves, and
of dwarf habit.

16

242 ROCK GARDENS

ASARUM (ARISTOLOCHIACEAE)

A family of plants more curious than pretty, and of no great value.
They are all dwarf-growing and form mats of cyclamen-like leaves
and brownish flowers. Their chief beauty lies in their foliage. They
are useful for a cool, damp, shady corner and easily propagated by
division in spring. The following are the best-known varieties :—

A. europacum, canadense, and Sieboldit.—This latter has varie-
gated and marbled leaves.

ASPERULA (RUBIACEAE), Woodruff

Pretty little plants of easy culture in any soil or position. Pro-
pagated by division of the roots in spring or early summer.

A. ciliata.— Ordinary soil in sun. Compact-growing, with myriads
of little white flowers.

A. hirta.—\n sunny position, in light gritty soil. Forms compact
tufts with small white flowers changing to pink. Grows about
3 inches high.

A. nitida (syn. A. Gussonii).—Sandy soil. Compact dwarf-
grower, only about 4 inches high, and very pale pink flowers.

A. odorata. — Light soil. Neat-growing, with small, fragrant
flowers.

A. suberosa (syn. A. Athoa).—Likes a dry, sunny spot. Has
rather downy foliage about 4 inches high, and small, pink, trumpet-
shaped flowers. A very pretty little plant, which dislikes damp.

AstTER (ComposiTaE), Michaelmas Daisy

A very large genus, including many lovely plants, but mostly of
too tall a growing habit to be suitable for the rock garden. There
are a few, however, which should be included in every collection.
They are all hardy and quite easily cultivated, and propagated by
division in spring or autumn.

A. alpinus.—Ordinary loam in half shade. Forms sturdy tufts
about 6 inches high of rather downy leaves. The daisy-shaped
flowers, which are about 2 inches across, are of pale blue, with a
golden-coloured eye. It is a fairly rapid grower, and easily increased
by division. A good plant, to which slugs and mice are much
devoted. This may be taken as the type, for there are many forms,
giving a variety of colours.

. al, albus.—A white form.

. al, altro-violaceus.—Deep violet in colour.
. al. ruber.—Deep red flowers.

. al. roseus.—Pink flowers.

DS a A aS

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 243

A. al. speciosus.—Rather deeper-coloured than the type.

A. al. superbus—A good, deep, violet-blue form.

A. al. himalaicus—Deep blue. One of the best.

A. al. subcoerulea.—F lowers 2 inches across; of a most lovely
shade of blue. A choice form.

A. acris.—Likes sun and loam. Grows about 2 feet high, and
is in late summer smothered with a cloud of small, soft, purple
flowers. Of easiest culture and readily divides. A lovely and
dainty plant, which should be freely grown in bold masses.

A. “ Patterson.” —Dwarf-growing, rather similar to a/finus, with
pale blue flowers.

AstraGALus (LEGUMINOSAE), Milk Vetch

A numerous genus of the Vetch tribe, of which there are few
suitable species. Increased by division or seed. The latter is the
best method.

A. alpfinus.—Ordinary soil in sun. Prostrate habit. Flowers
bluish-purple, in summer. A good plant.

A. hypoglottis (syn. A. danicus).—Likes sunny aspect in cal-
careous, well-drained soil. Trailing habit, with heads of blue
flowers in July and August. Very easily grown, and a useful plant
There is also a white-flowered form of this, which is pretty.

A. monspessulanus.—Sunny aspect in rich, moist, calcareous
soil. Trailing habit. Only some 4 inches high. A vigorous grower.
Should be planted to fall over the face of arock. Flowers pale rosy-
lilac, with bars of white on upper petals ; the unopened buds a deep
crimson. A useful plant, of easy culture. There is also a white
form, albus, of this.

A. onobrychioides.—A handsome, strong-growing variety, with
purple-crimson flowers in profusion in capitate spikes. A good
plant for the rougher parts of the garden.

A. purpureus.—Prostrate-growing plant, rather hairy. Bright
purple flowers in June.

A. pannosus.—Ordinary soil. Tufts of woolly, pinnate leaves
about 9 inches high. Flowers rose-coloured, in compact, globose
heads. Blooms in July.

AUBRIETIA (CRUCIFERAE)

An indispensable genus of trailing plants, so well known that a
description is unnecessary. They are all most accommodating,
thriving in any soil, and quite indifferent to aspect. Readily grown
from seed, cuttings, or division. They are practically all of the
same type, though varying much in colour of flower. The following
are the best varieties, and mostly garden hybrids :—

244 ROCK GARDENS

“ Bridesmaid.’ —Large flowers, rosy pink. A good variety.

“ Craven Gem.”—Good purple.

“ Dr Mutes.”—Best habit of growth of any Aubrietia, being very
compact. Deep violet-purple flowers. Better grown in shade, as
in sun the flowers fade.

“ Fire King.” —Of rather straggling habit. Flowers crimson, with
a trace of magenta, so will require care in grouping, but is all the
same a very desirable plant.

Lloyd Edwards.—About the best purple aubrietia yet raised.

A. Moerheimi.—F lowers pale rose, rather like, but not so large
as, “ Bridesmaid.”

Prichard’s A1.—Deep violet-coloured flowers of large size, but of
rather loose growth.

A. Wallacet.—Deep violet-blue flowers, blooming both in spring
and autumn.

There are also two with variegated foliage—A. argentea, silvery
white; A. aurea, gold variegation; both tidy, compact growers,
and quite pretty.

A. tauricola.—A distinct deciduous species, which forms compact
tufts and has deep blue flowers.

AURICULA (see PRIMULA)

AZALEA (ERICACEAE)

A very large genus of lovely shrubs, many of which are evergreen.
They are typically mountain bushes, growing only to a moderate
height and very free-flowering, and are most eminently suitable for
planting in the rock garden. They also have the advantage of
being easier to grow than the Rhododendrons, to which family
they are very closely allied. Although supposed to grow only in
peat, they will be found to thrive and flower well in ordinary loam,
provided it is fairly free from lime, which, like all other peat-lovers,
they detest. There are a vast number of named kinds, all of which
are lovely and most suitable for planting amongst rocks. But as
space will not permit me to enumerate them all, I shall only give
a few of the more distinctive types.

A. amoena.—FPeat or ordinary loam; any aspect. Forms a
compact little evergreen bush about 12 to 18 inches high. Small
dark green leaves and rosy-crimson flowers. Blooms in May in the
greatest profusion. A delightful little shrub, which should be freely
planted in masses.

A. procumbens (syn. Lotseleuria procumbens).—Deep, sandy peat
in half shade. A small, trailing shrub with wiry branches, not
growing more than from 2 to 3 inches high, and forming a compact

ALPHABETICAL (LIST OF PLANTS ‘245

mass. Bears small, pink, bell-shaped flowers in spring. Very
difficult to grow, and rarely seen in health in the garden. Good
young plants with perfect roots to start with are essential. A little
gem, and worthy of some trouble to grow.

A. rosacfiora.—Peaty soil. A compact-growing little bush
rather similar to A. amoena, with salmon-rose-coloured flowers in
spring. Quite hardy, of easy culture, and very attractive.

A. serpyliifolia.—Peaty soil and half shade. Of compact growth,
with narrow leaves and a profusion of small pink flowers.

A. s. latifolia.—A stronger-growing form of the above. Other
lovely kinds, but of taller habit, are—

. calendulacea.—Orange flowers.

. mudifiora, of which there are endless hybrids.
. mollis.—Shades of orange and orange-red.

. viscosa.—Fragrant white flowers.

. Vaseyz.—Lovely delicate pink flowers.

MAS A DS aS

Betis (ComposiTaE), Daisy

Few forms of the Daisy are worth growing in the rock garden,
The following are a selection :—

B. perennis—Numerous named and unnamed double varieties.
Great favourites with some people.

B. rotundifiora coerulea.—Requires sheltered, sunny position
and protection in a severe winter. White, daisy flowers tinged with
lavender. A charming little plant.

BELLIUM (COMPOSITAE)

A genus closely allied to the common Daisy; neither very
beautiful nor very hardy. They all require a warm, sunny spot and
sandy loam.

B. bellidiotdes—Very dwarf habit, with small, white, solitary
flowers.

B. crassifolium.—F lowers whitish-yellow, rather downy. Blooms
in June.

B. minutum.—Very small, like a miniature Daisy. Pale white
and yellow flowers from June to September.

BERBERIS (BERBERIDEAE), Barberry

A handsome genus of shrubs, of which there are a few kinds
suitable for the rock garden. They are all of easy cultivation.

B. buxifolia nana.—Evergreen dwarf species, growing only
12 inches high. Small yellow flowers in abundance.

246 ROCK GARDENS

B. Darwinit nana.—A dwarf form of the well-known evergreen
species. Orange-coloured flowers.

B. stenophylla Irwinit.—A delightful little shrub.

B. Thunbergi minor.—A miniature of Thunberg?, and well worthy
of a place.

B. empetrifolia.—Likes rather peaty soil. Grows 18 inches to 2
feet, with bright orange-coloured flowers. Most charming and useful.

BLETIA HYACINTHINA

A hardy orchid. Requires peaty soil in a half-shady spot.
Flower-stems about 12 inches high, bearing deep, rosy-purple
flowers. A pretty plant for drier parts of the bog garden.

BORAGO LAXIFLORA (BORAGINACEAE)

Dark-green hairy leaves. Lovely pale blue flowers on hairy
branching stems freely produced throughout the summer. Loam in
open position. Quite hardy.

This is a plant that deserves to be more freely used, as the flowers
are an exquisite shade of blue ; but, being somewhat coarse in habit,
it should not be planted in the choicer parts of the rock garden.

BRACHYCOME (COMPOSITAE)

A genus of beautiful little half-hardy plants, closely resembling
the daisy.

B. Sinclairiz—Requires a sunny aspect, where it can get ample
moisture. Grows in a compost of loam, leaf-mould mixed with
small stones. A very dwarf-habited plant, only about 2 inches
high, spreading moderately. Leaves deep bronzy-green, and rather
downy, arranged in tufts. Small, white, daisy-like flowers all the
summer. A delightful wee plant.

B. tberidifolia—The Swan River Daisy, though an annual, may
be used to temporarily fill bare spaces.

BRUCKENTHALIA SPICULIFOLIA

Half-shady position in dry, peaty loam. A dwarf-growing plant of
the Heath family, only some g inches high, with pale purple flowers
in July.

BRYANTHUS (ERICACEAE)

A genus of small trailing shrubs of Heath family.

B. empetriformis (see Menziesa empetriformts).

B. erectus.—Small alpine shrub, said to be a hybrid (Kalmia
glauca x Rhododendron Chamaecistus).—A_ half-shady position in
sandy peat. A neat evergreen shrub, about 8 to 1o inches high,

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 247

with pale green leaves and large red campanulate flowers. A
delightful little shrub of fairly easy culture.

B. glanduliformis.—Sandy peat. A very dwarf shrub, only some
3 to 4 inches high, with bright magenta-red flowers, rather like a
pentstemon in shape, and about 14 inches long.

Buxus (EUPHORBIACEAE), Box

Dwart-growing forms of the common Box may be used for giving
evergreen effects. Quite hardy.

CALAMINTHA (LABIATAE)

A small genus of hardy plants of easy culture in ordinary soil.
Readily increased by seed, or division of the roots in spring.

C. alfina.—Sandy loam. Only growssome 4 inches high. Freely
branched, tufted habit, with purplish flowers in whorls in June.

C. grandifiora.—Rather larger form.

C. glabella.—Tubular, lilac-coloured flowers, sweet-scented. Suit-
able for growing with the very dwarfest plants.

CALANDRINIA UMBELLATA

Requires a very hot and dry position in poor sandy loam. Neat
little shrubby plant growing about 6 inches high. Narrow, rather
hairy leaves, and dazzling magenta-crimson flowers freely produced.
Hardy only in dry soils. Very easily raised from seed. The flowers
will only open in full sun, and for brilliancy are equalled by few ; but
having a shade of magenta in their colouring, care should be taken
as to what plant it is associated with. It very much dislikes dis-
turbance, and young plants are the best. It is a succulent plant,
and the hottest, driest spot is the best place for it. It should be
treated as biennial.

Other varieties, C. grandiflora, C. Menziesit, and C. nitida,
have purple-rose-coloured flowers, and should be treated as _half-
hardy annuals.

CALCEOLARIA (SCROPHULARIACEAE)

There are three varieties of this genus well worth growing;
they are quite different from the well-known and, I think, ugly green-
house kinds.

C. plantaginea.—Raised parts of the bog garden and peaty
loam. Rosettes of plantain-like leaves, pubescent. Bright yellow
flowers borne on stems about 12 inches high from June to August.
A good plant.

248 ROCK GARDENS

C. polyrhiza.—Moist peat and loam in half shade. Dwarf-grow-
ing, with spikes of incurved and spotted canary-yellow flowers in
July, borne in profusion. Quite hardy, and a good plant.

C. violacea.—Sheltered position in sandy loam. A _ shrubby
plant, growing 18 inches to 2 feet, with pale blue flowers, spotted
violet. Is hardy only in favourable localities. Easily increased by
division. A lovely plant, and well worth giving protection to during
the winter.

CALLIRHOE (MALVACEAE), Poppy Mallow

Dwarf plants of the Mallow tribe.

C. involucrata.—Hot, dry position in very light sandy loam.
Grows about 6 inches high, with trailing stems, cut leaves, and
crimson-magenta-purple flowers, rather like a Mallow. Blooms
in June. Easily raised from seed. Colour of the flowers is
brilliant, but merging on the magenta shade, so care should be
taken with what flowers they are associated.

CaLTHA (RANUNCULACEAE), Marsh Marigold

Lovely and showy plants for the waterside. The single form,
though lovely, is so common that it is hardly worth while giving
it a place, but there are some very good double forms which should
be grown. All are of easy culture.

C. biflora.—Compact grower, with white flowers.

C. monstrosa, fl. fl.—A fine double form.

C. palustris, fl. pl.—A double form of the common Marsh
Marigold.

C. polypetula.—Large leaves and yellow flowers.

C. polysepala.—Enormous leaves and flowers, said to have been
obtained from the Vatican.

C. purpurascens.—Rather distinct species, with purplish stems
and the outside of bright orange-coloured flowers of a purplish
tinge.

C. parnassifolia.—Yellow flowers in April and May.

CAMPANULA (CAMPANULACEAE), Bell-flowers

A large genus varying greatly in habit, height, and colour.
Many are too coarse and tall-growing for the rock garden, but
amongst the dwarfer-habited kinds will be found some of the
choicest plants for the garden. They mostly like a sunny aspect
and sandy loam, and are all very partial to limestone, except
Allionit, pulla, and pullotdes, which all three dislike extremely.
there are so many varieties and hybrids, some scarcely dis-

AUPIABETICAL, EIST OF PLANTS’ 249

tinguishable from one another, that it would be impossible to give
anything like a complete list; but the following kinds are the
best and most distinct forms, dwarf of habit, and well suited for
the rock garden. Unless otherwise stated, it may be understood
that sandy loam and sun are what they require.

C. Abietina.—Close green mats of leaves, 2 inches high. Lovely
open, star-shaped, purple flowers in May, on slender, erect stems
about 6 inches high. Increased by division, which it requires
occasionally. One of the best kinds.

C. Allionit (syn. C. alpestris and C. nana).—Small stone chips,
with a dash of peaty soil, in sun, are the needs of this plant, which
hates lime. Long, narrow, hairy leaves and blue, bell-shaped flowers
on slender stems about 6 inches high. Blooms in July. One of
the loveliest and most difficult Campanulas. Requires abundant
moisture during growing season.

C. alpina.—Rather long leaves covered with a greyish down. Of
erect habit, growing from 6 to Io inches high. Spikes of fine dark
blue flowers, pendulous, tubular-shaped, about 1 inch long. Blooms
in July. Division or seeds.

C. barbata—Compact tufts of shaggy leaves. Lovely pen-
dulous, pale blue, bell-shaped flowers nearly 1 inch long, all
fringed at the mouth. These are borne four or five on a spike,
in May. Unfortunately not always perennial. Dislikes excessive
damp in winter, so should be planted in a dryish spot.

C. 6. alba is a lovely form ; requiring same treatment.

C. caespitosa.—A dwarf, spreading little plant. Tufted habit,
4 to 6inches high. Round glossy leaves and a cloud of pale blue
flowers in summer. Too strong a grower for association with
choice plants; but for planting between steps and clothing odd
corners there is no better or more lovely little flower. Readily
increased by division. There is a white form, which is difficult to
distinguish from pusilla alba.

C. carnica.—Rather of the type of the native Harebell. Flowers
long, narrow, and tubular, and lilac-purple in colour. Quite hardy
and a good grower.

C. carpatica.—Erect, deep blue flowers, funnel-shaped, growing
in loose panicles about 9 to 18 inches high, according to the rich-
ness of the soil, and very freely produced during the summer.
Stems leafy and branched. This is the type, but there are an
endless number of hybrids and varieties; of the latter the best
and most distinct are—

C. car. alba.—A pure white form, very lovely.

C. car. pallida.—Palest of blue flowers.

C. car, riverslea.—A good and very free-blooming and vigorous
variety, with deep blue flowers.

250 ROCK GARDENS

C. car. pelviformis.—A more distinct variety, and one of the best.
Grows as high as 18 inches, and bears a profusion of large, rather
flat, saucer-shaped flowers of a pleasing shade of pale blue. Not
quite as robust as some of the other kinds. Slugs, therefore, are
rather devoted to it.

C. car. “ White Star.”—Large, saucer-shaped flowers, nearly 2}
inches across, white, with just a trace of blue in them, which, if
anything, rather enhances their beauty.

C. centsta.—Deep, very gritty, sandy soil. Spreads vigorously
underground, and above makes compact rosettes of light green
leaves. Grows only about 3 inches high, with funnel-shaped, solitary
blue flowers. Division.

C. collina.—Likes a hot, stony bank. Greyish, downy leaves of
medium growth. Pendulous, long, funnel-shaped flowers of the
most beautiful violet colour, rivalling C. fwZ/a in intensity. A lovely
and uncommon plant of the easiest culture. Quite one of the gems
of the genus.

C. Elantines.—Of trailing habit, with hairy leaves and blue
starry flowers, rather flat-shaped. Dislikes damp, and should be
planted in a crevice or moraine in full sun. Slugs are very devoted
to this species.

C. elatinoides.—Very similar to the above, but of taller habit.

C. excisa.—Open position in gritty peat and loam. A rapid-
growing little plant of spreading habit. Thin, erect stems, 3 to 6
inches high, and drooping, bell-shaped flowers of pale violet. It
derives its name from having a small round hole at the base of
every lobe. Acharming little plant. Does not likelime. Increased
by division.

C. fragilis.—Requires well-drained, sandy loam, as it dislikes
excessive moisture. Prostrate, trailing habit, barely 5 inches high.
Rather large, pale, clear lilac-blue, bell-shaped flowers, with a white
centre, borne on half-prostrate stems. The stems of this plant are
very brittle, from which it derives its name. A very pretty little
plant.

Other Campanulas very nearly allied to and requiring much the
same treatment as fragilis are Barrelieri, Balchiniana, rupestris,
and Zemnoriz. These are all so much alike that to the ordinary
gardener, at least, it is very hard to distinguish them apart.

C. garganica.—Prostrate, compact habit, and free-growing.
Toothed, heart-shaped leaves. Plant covered in summer with a
profusion of bluish starry flowers, with a white centre, rising about
3 inches. One of the best and easiest-growing Campanulas. Should
be planted in crevices in vertical parts of the rock garden to show it
at its best. Easily increased by division or seed. A/ba isa white
and lovely form.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 251

C. g. hirsuta.—This is a very hairy form of the above, and of
rather coarser growth. A gem amongstthe Campanulas. Hirsuda
alba is a white, rare, and very beautiful form,

C. grandiflora (syn. Platycodon).—Good, well-drained loam in
partial shade. “The balloon Campanula,” so named from the shape
of its large inflated blossoms just before they fully open ; when fully
expanded, they are about 3 inches across, of a deep, rather slaty-
blue, borne on stalks about 15 inches high. There is a white form,
aloa. Also a dwarfer-growing variety, Marzeszz, which also has
a white form. All these balloon Campanulas have fleshy root-
stocks, very liable to decay in undrained situations. They all
come readily from seed, and vary much in shades of white and
blue.

C.“G. F. Wilson.”—A hybrid, C. carpfatica x pulla. Very free
grower, spreading underground rapidly. Quite dwarf habit.
Deep blue, semi-pendulous, bell-shaped flowers, with a lighter
centre. A charming plant, of the easiest culture. Increased by
division.

C. glomerata.—Sun, in ordinary soil. Grows 12 to 18 inches
high. Flowers bluish-violet-coloured, borne in terminal heads.
There are many varieties of this species.

C. g. acaulis.—Is a dwarf form of C. glomerata, which bears its
flowers on stems a foot or so high; but in this case the deep violet
clusters of flowers nestle close to the downy foliage, which slugs
much appreciate.

C. g. daharica (syn. sfeciosa).—This plant is true to the type,
bearing on stems about g inches high flowers of the most brilliant
blue. It is a striking plant, very easily grown, and readily
increased by division.

C. haylodgensis.—This is a hybrid between Justia and carpatica.
Yellowish-green leaves and pale blue, open, bell-shaped flowers
in summer and autumn. It is of easy culture and a useful
plant.

C. hederacea (syn. wahlenbergia).—Requires a moist, boggy
spot, or by the edge of astream. A fragile, creeping plant, with
delicate leaves on thread-like stems, and small, pale bluish-
purple flowers. A pretty little plant for a wet spot, and a
native.

C. Hendersoni.—Forms a pyramid 10 inches high, of large saucer-
shaped, showy purple flowers. A handsome plant, but rather
inclined to go off. Probably a variety of carfatica.

C. hosttt.—-Very nearly allied to C. rotundifiora, but is somewhat
stronger in habit, growing about 12 inches high, and has flowers of
a deeper shade of purple.

C. tsophylla.—Sunny position in well-drained, sandy loam. Of

252 ROCK GARDENS

trailing habit, free-growing. Roundish, toothed leaves. Lovely
pale blue, salver-shaped flowers, with a lighter centre. It flowers
in July and August. A well-known plant, generally grown in the
house, and a familiar object in cottage windows, with sheets of
blossom from some hanging basket. In the rock garden there can
be no more beautiful sight than a good plant of it, when in full
bloom, falling over the face of some sunny rock. It is not very
hardy, and dislikes excessive damp, so will need a little care in any
but very favoured localities. C. zsophylla alba is a white, and, if
possible, more attractive form.

C. lanata (syn. velutina).—Requires the hottest, driest, sunniest
crevice to be found. Large woolly leaves. Flower-spikes short,
with large, hairy, bell-shaped flowers. Primrose-coloured, and
tinged with pink. A lovely and attractive plant, but not easy to
keep, as it is very liable to damp off. It should be planted in a
vertical fissure and protected from moisture overhead. Flowers in
July. Grows readily from seed.

C. macrorrhiza.—Likes a vertical fissure in full sun and cal-
careous soil. It has a thick, woody root-stock and numerous light,
drooping stems, with clusters of fine blue flowers during the winter.
A perfectly hardy and easily grown species, and one that should be
more frequently used, not only on account of its hardiness, but also
because of its blooming in winter.

C. Mayli.—Warm, sunny position in light gritty loam. Roundish
hirsute leaves. Lovely pale blue salver-shaped flowers. This
species is of the zsofhylla type, and should be protected in
winter from damp. A very beautiful and well-known basket
plant.

C. mollis —Forms a spreading carpet of glossy leaves about 6 to
8 inches high. Flowers dark blue, and freely borne in May and
June. Quite hardy, and a useful plant.

C. muralis.—Smooth, dark green leaves, forming a carpet some
6 inches thick, with deep blue, bell-shaped flowers. Of the hardiest
constitution, and one of the best dwarf-growing Campanulas. Some
authorities claim this species as being synonymous with Porten-
schlagiana, while others say the latter is a more robust and distinct
form. There is also in catalogues Portenschlagiana Bavarica,
which claims to have larger flowers. But there is a form of C.
muvalis of rather taller habit, with larger and deeper-coloured
flowers, and if anything more floriferous.

C. pulla.—Open, level, sunny spot in peaty soil. Spreads under-
ground fairly rapidly, sending up shoots of bright green leaves, and
on hairy stems about 3 inches long a solitary, pendulous, bell-shaped
flower of the deepest violet-blue in July and August. Of easy
culture so long as there is no lime in the soil. It is said to

AEPHABE TICAL LIST *OF PLANTS. 253

die off during the winter, so it is advisable to keep a stock of it
in pots to replace casualities. One of the gems of the genus, and
indispensable.

C. pullotdes.—A chance hybrid, probably between carpatica and
pulla. The same parentage as “G. F. Wilson,” which its flowers
resemble in shape and size, but they have the deep purple of Zzz//a.
It is of the same habit, but taller and stronger-growing than Zz//a.
Blooms very freely in July and August. A glorious Campanula,
than which there is none better grown, and very few, if any, as
good. Readily increased by division. There is a variety of it
named Aewemszs, which claims to be larger and of a'‘more gorgeous
violet-purple, and altogether a superior plant. I have not seen it
myself, but if it answers the description it must indeed be some-
thing to rave about.

C. punctata.—Ordinary soil in partial shade. Grows about 12
inches high and has long, drooping, white, bell-shaped flowers
spotted with dark red. Not long-lived, but easily raised from seed.
Quite a handsome plant.

C. pusilla.—Very like C. caespitosa, but of rather dwarfer habit.
Pendulous, pale blue, bell-shaped flowers. Leaves glossy, toothed,
and heart-shaped. Blooms in June and July. There is a white
form, alba, and pallida, a variety with even paler blue flowers. All
three are of easy culture and very pretty plants. Increased by
division.

C. p. “Miss Wilimott.’”—-A recent introduction bearing larger and
paler blooms than the type, and in greater profusion. Well worth
growing.

C. rvaddeana.—A beautiful new species from the Caucasus.
Leaves deep green. Stems about 6 to 8 inches high, from which
spring numerous semi-pendent cup-shaped flowers of a rich purple.
Ordinary light soil in sun or half-shade. Grows and spreads
rapidly. Quite one of the best.

C. Raineri.—Needs a sunny chink in strong, gritty loam. Rare,
dwarf-growing species, with large, erect, dark blue, funnel-shaped
flowers. Easily grown, and a very good plant for a dry spot.
Slugs are very fond of it.

C. rhomboidalis.—Nearly allied to C. rotundifolia. It has deep
blue flowers, and grows Io to 12 inches high. Ordinary light soil
in sun. Increased by seed or division.

C. rotundifolia.—The common native Harebell, but, though
common, is well worthy of a spot in the less choice parts. There
is a white form, a/éa, which is a good thing, and C. ». soldanelli
Jlora plena, which is particularly attractive.

C. r. alpina.—Deep blue colour, and is very fine.

C. rupestris.—Very gritty, well-drained soil in full sun. Dwarf

254 ROCK GARDENS

habit. Greyish silvery leaves and large pale blue flowers, a very
attractive plant. Increased by seed and division.

C. sarmatica.—Ordinary soil in any position. Grows about 10
inches high. With pale blue flowers. Somewhat similar to
C. barbata.

C. Stansfieldi.—Likes rather a shady or half-shady spot in well-
drained loam. Forms compact little plants with hairy, yellow-
tinted foliage, and clear blue, bell-shaped flowers. Quite hardy, and
easily grown. It dies down during the winter. Readily increased
by division. Quite in the front rank of dwarf Campanulas.

C. Stevenit nana.—Ordinary light soil in sun or half-shade. Very
similar in habit to C. Adde¢ina. Forms a carpet of narrow, glossy
leaves, from which rise large pale blue flowers on slender 6-inch
stems. A recent introduction from the Caucasusana. One of the
best and most attractive of the genus.

C. S. alba is also a good white form, rare and very beautiful.

C. tridentata.—Of tufted habit, with large purple flowers.
Requires light, very gritty soil in fullsun. A really a¢¢dvactive plant,
which should be more often grown.

C. Tommasiniana.—Rather a bushy-growing little plant, about
8 inches high, with spikes of pale blue, pendulous, tubular
flowers. A particularly good species, of which slugs are very
fond.

C. turbinata.—Dwarf-growing plant, with greyish-green leaves
and solitary, salver-shaped flowers 14 inches across, of a deep blue
colour, borne on erect stems about 6 inches high. Quite hardy,
and easily grown. A good plant. Also known as C. carfatica
turbinata.

C. ¢. Zsabel—Is a good variety, with large rich blue flowers.

C. Waldsteiniana.—A neat little plant, growing about 6 inches
high. Flowers star-shaped and bright blue, with a white eye,
borne on wiry stems clothed with narrow leaves. One of the
easiest to grow and best of Campanulas.

C. Zoysit.—Forms dense little tufts, about 3 inches high, of tiny
ovate leaves. Flowers drooping, bright blue, tubular, and curiously
contracted at the mouth. Blooms in June, and very freely. Quite
easy to grow in a sunny chink in gritty loam. A most delightful
little plant, but beware of slugs and snails, for they will come any
distance to feast off Campanula Zoysit.

CAMPHOROSMA MONSPELIACA (CHENOPODIACEAE)

A curious and little-known half-shrubby plant, like a silvery
grey cedar. Should be planted so that its branches can hang over
a rock. Ordinary soil in any position.

ALPHABETICAL) LIST OF PLANTS: 265

CARDAMINE, syn. DENTARIA (CRUCIFERAE), Ladies’ Smock

Vigorous-growing plants for a half-shady position in damp loam
and leaf-mould. They are more useful than choice plants for
associating with the coarser-growing kinds in the bog garden.
The following are the best varieties :—

C. bulbifera.—Fern-like foliage and pale purple flowers in loose
spikes. Flowering in spring and growing 1 to 2 feet high.

C. digitata.—Grows only about 12 inches high. Rich purple
flowers in flat racemes. Blooms in April.

C. enneaphylla.—Creamy-white flowers in clusters in April and
June. Grows about 12 inches high.

C. trifolia.—Forms a neat mass of dark green leaves about
3 inches high, of rather creeping habit, from which rise spikes about
6 inches long of large, pure white flowers. This variety is about
the choicest of the genus.

CARLINA ACAULIS

An everlasting. Requires full exposure to the sun in the
poorest of soil, otherwise it loses its brilliant appearance and grows
coarse. Thorny rosettes of leaves, on each of which lie silvery-
white, thistle-like flowers. Propagated by seed.

CASSANDRA (see ANDROMEDA)
CASSIOPE (see ANDROMEDA)

CASTILLEJA ACUMINATA

Peaty soil. Spikes of labiate yellow flowers ; with the envelop-
ing bract are a most brilliant vermilion. Quite hardy, but difficult
to cultivate. Grows 18 inches to 2 feet high.

CATHCARTIA VILLOSA

Requires a sheltered nook in light, rich soil. Of the Poppy tribe,
and nearly related to the Meconopsis. Grows about 12 inches
high, with silky, vine-shaped leaves, and large yellow flowers with
brown anthers. Hardy, but only a biennial. Increased by seed,
which is freely produced.

CERASTIUM (CARYOPHYLLACEAE), Mouse-ear Chickweed

Tufted plants of spreading habit and silvery leaves. Useful, but
by no means choice rock plants. All grow freely in hot, dry
positions in ordinary soil.

256 ROCK GARDENS

C. alpinum. — Dwarf-tufted plant, about 2 to 4 inches high.
Leaves ovate, lanceolate, densely covered with whitish down.
Large white flowers in early summer. Does not like excessive
moisture on its foliage, otherwise quite hardy. Increased by
division or cuttings inserted after flowering.

C. Biebersteinit.—Silvery-white leaves, ovate, lanceolate, and small
white flowers in early summer. Grows 6 inches high.

C. grandifiorum.—Very soon forms large tufts of hoary, narrow
leaves. Bears large pure white flowers in the greatest profusion in
the summer. Grows anywhere, and freely increased by cuttings or
by division. A well-known and showy plant for the rougher parts
of the rock garden, but too rampant in growth to put near anything
choice.

C. tomentosum.—A form similar to grandiflorum, but with smaller
flowers and more compact habit.

The above are the only varieties of Cerastium worth growing
except in botanical collections, to which might be added g/aciale,
a large and handsome variety, and vefems, useful dwarf carpeter.

CHAMAEBATIA FOLIOLOSA (ROSACEAE)

A little-known, dwarf, evergreen, shrubby plant of the Rose family.
Pretty fern-like leaves and bramble-like flowers # inch across.
Quite hardy, and worth a spot in the less choicer parts of the rock
garden in light loam.

CHAMAELIRIUM CAROLINIANUM (LILIACEAE)

Raised parts of the bog garden. A pretty plant with wand-like
spikes of white flowers.

CHAMAEMELUM CAUCASICUM (syn. MATRICARIA)

Dry position. Trailing habit, with fern-like leaves and white
flowers. Nearly allied to the Camomile family, and not of much
value.

CHEIRANTHUS (CRUCIFER#), Wallflower

Wallflowers are very useful for the wall garden. Besides the
well-known bedding varieties, there are a few of a rather distinct
habit. All are of the easiest culture.

C. alpinus.—In old walls and dry banks. Forms neat little tufts
of dark green foliage, covered during the summer with a profusion
of small sulphur-coloured leaves. A very pretty little plant, of the
easiest culture, and well worth a spot in the rock garden.

AbPEPABREIICAT)/LISK (OF PLANTS 257

C. Chetrt.—The old-fashioned flower, with its shades of yellow,
orange, and purplish-red, both double and single. In ordinary
garden soil these grow rank and coarse, but on the tops of walls
they form stout, dwarf little bushes, covered with flower during the
summer.

C. mutabilis—Old walls and dry banks. A shrubby plant, grow-
ing 2 to 3 feet high. Orange-purple-coloured flowers and buds deep
red. Quite hardy, and of easy culture. A pretty and distinct little
plant. Increased by division. Other varieties: A//oniz, hybrid
growing 12 inches high; flowers deep orange. JZarshaliz, another
hybrid with orange-coloured flowers.

CHIMAPHILA (ERICACEAE)

Low-growing evergreen shrubs of the Heath order, from North
America.

C. maculata (syn. Pyrola maculata).—Sandy, peaty soil in shady,
but not wet position. Grows only 3 to 6 inches high. Small,
glossy, leathery leaves, upper side variegated with white, under
surface red. White pendulous flowers in June. Rather difficult
to grow. Increased by division.

C. umbellata (syn. Pyrola umbellata).—Same soil and position.
Reddish-coloured flowers, rather larger than the last, and leaves
unvariegated. Both increased by careful division.

CHIOGENES HISPIDULA (syn. GAULTHERIA SERPYLLIFOLIA),
Creeping Snowberry

Wet, peaty soil in a shady, cool spot. A creeping evergreen
plant like a small Cranberry. Small white flowers and round white
berries. A plant for the bog garden.

CHRYSANTHEMUM (COMPOSITAE)

The section of this genus, better known as Marguerites, though
as a rule more suitable for the herbaceous border, gives a few
varieties of dwarfer habit which would look well in the rock
garden.

C. alpinum (syn. C. Leucanthemum).—Likes poor, gravelly soil.
Grows only about 4 to 6 inches high, with small, deeply cut, hoary
leaves and pure white flowers, with a golden eye, a miniature of
the common one-eyed daisy. Blooms in summer.

C. arcticum.—Grows about 9 inches high. Rosy-white flowers from
May to July. A pretty little plant.

17

258 ROCK GARDENS

C. hybridum coronopifolium.—Dwarf habit. Finely cut leaves.
Numerous white, daisy-like flowers.

C. Tchihatchewit.—Dry, stony banks. Rapid-growing dwarf
carpeter, with evergreen, fern-like foliage. Small, whitish, daisy
flowers with yellowish-coloured eyes. A very useful plant. Will
quickly clothe the most arid and hopeless-looking spots, where
nothing else would grow.

CHRYSOGONUM VIRGINIANUM

A plant of the Compositae order, of neat branching habit, growing
6 inches high in loamy soil. Has yellow flowers, freely produced
during the whole summer. Will grow under trees. A useful, if
not brilliant, little plant.

CHRYSOPSIS VILLOSA (COMPOSITAE)

Ordinary soil in any aspect. Dwarf-growing plant with downy
leaves and golden-yellow flowers from July to September. Of easy
culture, and increased by division in spring.

Cistus (CIsTINEAE), Rock Rose

This genus may be included amongst the most beautiful of our
flowering shrubs. They all love hot, dry, sandy banks; some
varieties are not hardy in a cold, wet climate. The flowers, though
lasting but one day, are borne in such profusion that a constant
succession is kept up for a considerable time during the summer.
The dwarfer kinds can be used amongst the rockwork, while the
taller-growing varieties may be associated with other shrubs. All
grow readily from cuttings and seeds.

C. albidus.—Compact-growing bush, 2 to 4 feet high. Leaves
and young shoots covered with a white pubescens. Large purplish-
rose-coloured flowers with yellow at the base.

C. algarvenses (syn. Helianthemum ocymotdes)—Neat shrub,
growing about 2 feet high, with narrow grey-green leaves. Rather
small, bright yellow flowers, with a crimson-purple spot at base of
each petal. Increased by division. Requires shelter from strong
winds, as its branches are rather brittle. A lovely little shrub, and
quite one of the best of the family. Other names of this variable
plant are Helianthemum algarvense, candidum, and rugosum.

C. Bourgaeanus.—Grows about 12 inches high, with prostrate
branches and narrow dark green leaves like Rosemary. Flowers
white, about 1 inch across.

C. Clusit (syn. C. rosmarintfolius).—Leaves and flowers the same

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 259

as the last, but of more erect habit, growing about 2 feet high. Not
very hardy.

C. Corbariensis (Salvifolius x populifolius).—Forms a compact
bush about 2 feet high. Leaves glutinous; margins fringed.
White flowers about 14 inches across, with a yellowish centre, in
June and July.

C. crispus—Grows about 2 feet high, with large flowers of 2 to 3
inches across, of rosy crimson, flowering from June to November.
One of the best.

C. cyprius.—Grows up to 5 feet high. Dark green leaves, smooth
above and hoary beneath, which in winter assume a glaucous tint.
Flowers borne in clusters, white, with a dark base and petals, and
4 inches across. Flowers in July. A very good shrub, often sent
out as the Gum Cistus.

C. florentinus (monspelicnsis x salvifolius).—Grows from 12 to
18 inches high. Compact habit. Dark green leaves and large white
flowers, with base of petals yellow, borne in the summer in the
greatest profusion. Quite one of the best of the dwarf kinds.

C. formosus (syn. Helianthemum formosus).—Rather a loose
habit. Grows up to 3 feet high. Small hoary leaves and yellow
flowers, with a dark purplish-brown blotch at the base of each
petal. Very pretty, but liable to succumb in a hard winter. As it
strikes easily from cuttings, a stock should be kept to replace
casualties.

C. glaucus.—Grows about 2 feet high. Dull green glabrous
leaves, downy underneath. Large white flowers with a yellow
blotch. Pretty.

C. hirsutus.—Leaves downy on both sides. Flowers white, with
yellow base. Rather smaller than the last, which it otherwise
resembles. Grows up to 2 feet high.

C. ladaniferus (Gum Cistus).—Grows about 3 feet high. Dark
glossy leaves, white and woolly underneath. Large white flowers,
4 to 5 inches across. Blooms in June to August. A well-known
and handsome shrub, not very hardy everywhere.

C. 1., var. maculatus.—F lowers white, with a maroon blotch at
base of petal. Otherwise the same as above, of which it is a
variety.

C. laurifolius.—F lowers white, with a yellowish mark at the base
of each petal, but otherwise similar to the above, except that it is
very hardy, standing any amount of cold and wet. Grows readily
from seed or cuttings. Blooms in June.

C. lusitanicus.—G rows about 18 inches high, of rather prostrate
habit. Dark green, slightly viscous leaves, and large white flowers,
each petal having a yellow base, with a dark green maroon blotch
above it. A lovely little shrub, and quite one of the best,

260 ROCK GARDENS

C. purpureus.—Growing about 2 feet high, with large reddish-
purple flowers, with a dark purple spot at base of petal, in the
summer. Leaves rather hairy. Not common.

C. rosmarinijolius (see C. Clusit).

C. salvifolius.—Slender habit, growing some 2 feet high, with
sage-like leaves and white flowers; very hairy. The above are
the most distinctive kinds, but others are also well worth growing.

C. Gauntlettit—Crimson flowers.

C. obtusifolius.—White flowers, yellow eye.

C. monspelienses.—F lowers white.

C. recognitus.—Dwarf-growing. White, crimson-spotted flowers.

CLayTonta (PORTULACEAE)

Rather uninteresting little plants for damp spots in loam and leaf-
mould. Some varieties are only biennials. Rather fleshy, obovate
leaves in compact tufts about 3 inches high, and loose racemes of
small flowers, rose-coloured, with deeper veins. The following are
the best varieties :—C. Asarzfolia, C. siberica, and C. virginica.

CLEMATIS (RANUNCULACEAE)

The following varieties can be used to clothe large masses of
rock or waste banks.

Many species are known under the name of A/¢vagene.

C. alfina.—With large violet-blue flowers.

C. tangitica.—Yellow flowers and fluffy seed-pods.

C. Viticella,—Large blue, purple, or rose-coloured flowers.

C. Douglast—Non-climbing variety, only growing about 1 foot
high. Flowers deep purple inside, lilac outside. Leaves hairy.

COCHLEARICA ALPINA (CRUCIFERAE)

A native. Forms neat rosettes of glossy, heart-shaped leaves.
Dwarf-growing. White flowers. Of no great value. Should be
planted in poor soil to prevent its growing coarse.

Coponopsis (CAMPANULACEAE)

A genus of plants of the bell-flower order, growing from 1 to 2
feet high. They should be planted high up on the rock garden, so
that the curiously veined markings inside the pendulous bells can
be seen. All are of easy culture in a warm corner.

C. Bulleyi.—Of trailing habit, large lavender-blue flowers. Of —
recent introduction, and should become popular.

C. ovata.—The best known. Pendulous, pale blue flowers with

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 261

white and yellow markings inside the bells. Partially erect stems
6 to 12 inches long. Not very hardy.

C. rotundifolia,—Large yellowish-coloured flowers with dark
purple veining. Climbing habit and an annual.

Other varieties :—

C. ussurtensts.—Blue flowers of more climbing habit, and distinct.

C. Clematidea.—White flowers tinged with blue. Grows 2 to 3
feet high.

Cotcuicum (LILIACEAE), Meadow Saffron

Very closely allied to the Crocus family. They are, however,
rather larger than the true Crocus. They should be grown in light
sandy loam, enriched with manure, in rather a moist spot. As the
flowers come before the leaves, they look better when appearing
through a carpet of Sedums, which also protect their bloom from
being splashed with the earth. Being mostly autumn flowers, they
give a bit of colour to the rock garden at a time when it is much
needed. They also look well planted in masses on grassy slopes.
There are a great many varieties, but the following is a good
selection :—

C. alpinum.—Deep rosy lilac.

C. autumnale.—Bright purple. There are several varieties :—
Roseus, rosy lilac; Striatium, rosy lilac, striped white; album,
pure white; atvofurpureum, deep purple ; and others.

C. crociflorum.—F¥ lowers white, striped purple. Spring flowering.

C. lébanoticum.—Rosy-white flowers in February.

C. Parkisoniz.—Purple flowers netted with white; blooms in October.

C. Sibthorpfit.—As large as C. speciosum, but richer in colour,
and of a more compact form, netted with crimson lines.

C. speciosum.—Large, rosy-purple flowers, nearly a foot high.
Blooms in October.

C. s. album.—A magnificent, pure white form with golden anthers.
As large as the type. Quite the pick of the family.

C. s. atrorubens.—A very much deeper and richer-coloured variety
of the type.

CONANDRON RAMONDIOIDES (GESNERACEAE)

Shade, in vertical fissures in deep, moist, peaty, and gritty loam.
Forms flat tufts of thick, wrinkled leaves, from which rise pale
purple and white flowers on wiry stems about 5 inches high. Of
doubtful hardihood, at least it is a difficult plant to keep. It is
very closely allied to the Ramondias, and should receive similar
treatment,

262 ROCK GARDENS

CONVALLARIA MAJALIS (LILIACEAE)

The well-known Lily-of-the-valley, and a universal favourite.
Although of suitable habit, is better confined to the beds in the
kitchen garden than in the rock garden proper, but can be made
use of for planting amongst low shrubs or in half-shady spots in the
woods.

ConvoLvuLus (CONVOLVULACEAE), Bindweed

Climbing plants of graceful habit. Many of them, however, far
too vigorous to be allowed into the rock garden. The more
moderate growers will be found useful for draping rocks or covering
banks. They are mostly indifferent to soil, but prefer it light, and
in sun. The following are the better kinds, easily increased by
division of roots or seed :—

C. althaeoides.—Dry banks. A non-climbing variety, with large
pale red or blue flowers, variable both in leaves and colour. In-
creased by seed or division. Hardy and deciduous.

C. arvensis. — White or rose-coloured flowers, wide, trumpet-
shaped, very pretty, but an awful weed. This variety should only

be planted in the wildest part of the wild garden, where it can run —

riot without doing any harm.

C. Cantabricus.—Grows about 12 inches high. Pink flowers in
clusters during August. Hardy and deciduous.

C. Cneorum.—Warm, sunny bank, sheltered. A very distinct
shrubby kind, growing about 18 inches to 2 feet. Leaves covered
with silvery tormentum, and white, shaded pink, flowers. A beautiful
plant, and should be freely grown when possible, but it is not very
hardy in cold climates. Easily struck from cuttings.

C. lineatus——Dry, warm position in sandy soil. Very dwarf-
growing, only about 6 inches high. Tufts of small, silvery, pointed
leaves, amongst which appear pale reddish-purple-coloured flowers
an inch across, in June. A choice deciduous plant for covering arid
slopes in the rock garden.

C. mauritanicus.—Requires warm, sunny position in sandy loam.
A trailer, though not of rampant growth, with lovely, clear, pale
azure-blue flowers, with a white throat and yellow anthers. A lovely
plant, but not of renowned hardihood. Increased by seeds or
cuttings.

C. soldanella.—The native Bindweed of our seashores. Pale
pink flowers on trailing stems. Very sandy soil will suit it well.

CoRIS MONSPELIENSIS (PRIMULACEAE)

Dry, sunny spot in well-drained, light, sandy, and peaty soil.
Branching and dwarf habit, growing about 6 inches high. Small

Ne

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 263

purple flowers with yellow anthers, 6-inch spikes. Hardy only in
warm and sheltered position. Doubtful perennial. Increased by
seed, sown as soon as ripe in a cold frame.

Cornus (CoRNACEAE), Dogwood

Genus of hardy shrubs, but only two are suitable for rock garden.
Readily increased by cuttings or suckers.

C. canadensis (Dwarf Cornel).—Deep, sandy, peaty soil in half
shade. Very dwarf-growing, with whorled, ovate leaves, dark green
turning red in winter. Flowers greenish-white and insignificant.

C. suectca.—Similar position and soil as last. Flowers dark
purple, in terminal umbels, produced in June. Red berries. Grows
about 6 inches high.

CoRONILLA (LEGUMINOSAE), Crown Vetch

Plants and shrubs of the Peaflower order, some of which are
worth growing. The Coronillas are all deep-rooted.

C. iberica (syn. cappadocica).—Sunny position in light sandy loam.
Neat, prostrate habit, with foliage not rising more than 3 or 4 inches
from the ground. Bright golden-yellow flowers, freely produced
during the summer. Fairly rapid grower. Hardy in dry position.
A most attractive plant, which should be freely grown. Division.

C. minitma.—Warm, sunny position in deep, light soil. Very
dwarf and prostrate-growing, and bright yellow flowers in June and
July. Is of easy culture, and well worth a place in some hot corner.
Increased by division or cuttings.

C. montana.—Light soil in full sun. Trailing habit. Bright
golden-yellow flowers in the greatest profusion in June and July.
This species deserves to be more widely cultivated.

C. varia.—The well-known Coronilla of railway banks, with its
rosy-yellow flowers, which, however, vary considerably. It may
be found useful for covering some sun-baked waste corner of the
rock garden where little else will grow.

CortusaA MATTHIOLI (PRIMULACEAE), Bear’s-ear Sanicle

Nearly allied to the Primulas. It requires moist, sandy peat
and loam in half shade and sheltered from the wind. Large
rather hairy leaves about 6 inches high. Pendulous, deep purplish-
crimson flowers, with a white ring at base, are borne in umbels on
stems about 8 inches high. Increased by seed or division. A very
pretty plant for the bog garden.

C. grandifiora.—I|s a larger form and of more vigorous habit.

C. Pubens.—Has flowers of a magenta-purple colour. A dwarfer-
growing plant than C. Mazthioli.

264 ROCK GARDENS

CorYDALIS (PAPAVERACEAE), Fumitory

Nearly all the Fumitories are pretty and attractive, and increased
by division after flowering ; they are a large family, of which only
a selection of the best is here given.

C. bracteata.—In ordinary soil. Sulphur-yellow flowers and
rather thin foliage. Very easy of culture.

C. chetlianthifolius.—Ordinary soil, rather light. Very pretty
fern-like foliage, and clear Naples yellow flowers. Grows about 12
inches high. Is of the easiest culture, seeding itself about. A new
species, and one of the best.

C. nobilis.—Likes light, rich soil. Grows about 18 inches high.
Fern-like foliage and stout leafy stems with large heads of rich
yellow flowers. A handsome plant, easy to grow, but slow to
increase. Propagated by division and seeds.

C. thalictrifolia.—Requires a sheltered position in light soil.
Tufted and spreading habit. Distinctive foliage, which in autumn
assumes a reddish hue. Grows only about to inches high. Large
pale yellow flowers borne in racemes. A handsome and new
introduction, flowering from spring to autumn. Less hardy than
some of the other kinds.

C. Wilsont.—Sunny position in ordinary soil. Handsome, divided
glaucous leaves and yellow flowers. Grows about 8 inches high.
Quite hardy. A recent introduction from China, and likely to prove
an addition.

Other species :—

C. capnotdes—Creamy-white flowers, very pretty.

C. lutea.—The common yellow Fumitory.

C. ochroleuca.—Pale yellow flowers.

C. exima.—Bright rose-coloured flowers.

C. formosa.—Bright rose.

CoTONEASTER (ROSEACEAE), Rock Spray

A very large genus of trees and shrubs ; but a few of the dwarf-
growing kinds are charming for covering rocks and banks. The
following are the most suitable for that purpose :—

C. adpressa.—Ordinary soil. A very compact, close, and fast-
growing prostrate shrub. MRosy-pink flowers, followed by red
berries. Deciduous. A new Chinese species, very attractive, and
a valuable addition.

C. congesta nummularia.—Close, prostrate habit.

C. horizontalis—Branches grow fan-shaped, and lie close to a
wall or face of arock. The small, dark green, ovate leaves take a
brilliant orange-red tone in the autumn, with vermilion-coloured
berries. A fairly fast grower. A charming and valuable shrub.
Deciduous,

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 265

C. humifusa.—Long trailing shoots and dark green leaves.
Useful for covering rocks.

C. microphylla— Handsome evergreen species of trailing habit,
but too strong and rapid a grower for any but the rougher parts of
the rock garden, where it should make a pretty picture with its
sheets of white flowers in summer and crimson-red berries in winter,
which show up so well against its dark green foliage.

Crocus (IRIDACEAE)

These well-known little bulbous plants look well in masses in the
wild garden, or in groups in the less choice parts of the rock garden.
There are a great number of varieties, a selection of which can be
made from any bulb catalogue.

CyanantHus Lopatus (CAMPANULACEAE)

Sunny position in sandy soil mixed with peat and leaf-mould.
Trailing habit, and small dark green foliage. Flowers deep purplish-
blue, with a whitish centre. Deciduous plant, flowering in late
autumn. Requires moisture during growing season. A very pretty
and distinct plant, and well worth growing.

C. incanus.—Dry, sunny position in well-drained, peaty loam.
Flowers not as large as C. Lobatus, but of a most beautiful shade
of blue, with a tuft of white hairs at the throat of the corolla. A
most exquisitely lovely and rare plant, and not easy to cultivate.

CYCLAMEN (PRIMULACEAE), Sowbread

Besides the greenhouse varieties, there are a large number which
are quite hardy, and may be used with good effect in the garden.
They do best when planted beneath low bushes, which gives them
shelter. They require half shade in loam and leaf-mould and
perfect drainage to ensure success. The corms should be planted
just below the surface of the ground, and should not be allowed to
become exposed. A light top dressing of leaf-mould when at rest
is advisable. Amongst many others the following are well-known
varieties :—

C. Coum.—Crimson flowers.

C. hederefolium.—Crimson flowers and prettily marked leaves.

C. vernum.—Various colours.

Cyponia JAPONICA SIMONI

A dwarf and creeping form of Pyrus Japonica, with blood-red
flowers in early spring. A handsome and useful shrubby plant,

266 ROCK GARDENS

C. Pygmaea.—Compact habit and brick-red flowers. Also a
charming little shrub for the rock garden.

CyPRIPEDIUM (ORCHIDACEAE), Lady’s Slipper

Most interesting and beautiful hardy orchids.

C. acaule (syn. C. humile).—Deep, moist loam, peat, and sand, in
half-shady position. Large rose-coloured flowers blotched with
purple. Very pretty, but not easy to grow.

C. Calceolus.—Half-shady position in fibrous loam; likes limestone.
Flowers, reddish-brown sepals and petals; lip yellow. A very
pretty native plant.

C. macranthon.—Good fibrous loam and limestone. Rich purple
flowers about 12 inches high. A very handsome species.

C. parvifiorum.—F ull shade in very moist peat, loam, and sand.
Flowers rather small. Sepals and petals brown and purple; lip
yellow, spotted red. One of the best.

C. pubescens (syn. C. hirsutum).—Rather heavy loam and lime-
stone, well drained, in half shade. Sepals and petals yellow,
streaked brown ; lip yellow ; stems and leaves pubescent.

C. spectabile. —Half shade in moist, loamy peat and sand.
Flowers large, white-pink, tinted with crimson-veined lips. The
handsomest and freest blooming of the family. A good mass of
these hardy orchids is indeed a gorgeous sight.

All the Cypripediums need a well-drained position, though at the
same time requiring moisture. They like to get their roots into
decaying leaves, so choose a well-drained, low-lying spot in half
shade.

Cytisus (LEGUMINOSAE), Broom

A genus of very graceful and extraordinarily floriferous shrubs.
Some of tall-growing habit, while others are quite prostrate ; but
they are all suitable for the rock garden, and can be used in
different parts; they are typically rock shrubs. They are all of
the easiest culture, and mostly indifferent to soil, and many kinds
come readily from seed. The brooms are so closely allied to the
Genistas that much confusion arises.

C. albus (White Spanish Broom).—Growing 4 or 5 feet in a few
years. White flowers borne in long racemes in the greatest
profusion. A grand shrub for bold masses. Cut back after
flowering.

C. a. durus.—A prostrate, weeping variety of more moderate
growth.

C. Ardotni.—Forms a low trailing mass 4 to 6 inches high,

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 267

covered in April and May with deep yellow flowers. A lovely plant
for growing over a rock.

C. Carliert.—Forms compact bush about 3 feet high. Erect
spikes pale yellow flowers from July to October. One of the
choicest Brooms.

C. Kewensis.—A hybrid raised at Kew. Prostrate, trailing habit.
Creamy-white flowers in May in the utmost profusion. One of the
most beautiful of dwarf Brooms.

C. praecox.—Grows about 5 feet high, but slowly. Another lovely
Broom. Covered in May with pale primrose-coloured flowers, it is
indeed a beautiful sight. Cuttings strike freely. There is a white
form equally good.

C. schipkaensis.— Dwarf habit. Quantities of creamy-white
flowers. A good plant.

C. scopartus.—The common yellow Broom has many lovely
varieties: andreana, pallidus, Firefly, all lovely and completely
smothering the bushes with the profusion of their flowers. There
are many other varieties, but the above selection includes the best
and dwarfer-growing kinds.

DaLIBARDA (syn. RUBUS) REPENS (ROSACEAE)

Deep peaty soil in shade. Tufted, creeping plant, about 2 inches
high. White shaded rose-coloured flowers in June. Slow growing.
Hardy. Division.

DaPHNE (THYMELACEAE)

Shrubs of the highest value, some tall-growing, while others are
quite dwarf. Beautiful and fragrant flowers. Not easy to keep
in health.

D. alpina.—Loam and sand, shaded from mid-day sun. Low-
branching shrub, seldom growing over 2 feet high. Fragrant
yellowish-white flowers, borne in clusters on the sides of the
branches from April to June; red berries in the autumn. This
species does not dislike lime as much as some of the others do.
Deciduous.

D. blagayana.—Peat and loam, cool, well-drained soil, in a rather
shaded position. Prostrate habit and straggling growth. Leaves
form rosettes at end of branches and encircle the dense clusters of
creamy-white, most deliciously fragrant flowers. Blooms in April
and May. Evergreen. Not very hardy, and, except in favoured
localities, should have protection during the winter. Stones should
be placed on all the prostrate branches to encourage them to layer,
for, like all other Daphnes, it is liable to go off without any apparent

268 ROCK GARDENS

reason. A most lovely plant, and worth considerable trouble to
grow.

D. Cneorum.—Peaty and sandy soils. Spreading habit, growing
only 10 to 12 inches high. Rosettes of small leaves and clusters of
rosy-red flowers in the summer, and also very fragrant. Hardy.
Propagated by layers. This delightful evergreen shrub should also
have stones placed on its prostrate growths. Difficult to keep in
health, suddenly dying off without any apparent cause, but a gem
amongst dwarf, shrubby plants. There is also a white form, a/ba,
which is very lovely.

D. fioniana.—Loam and half-shady aspect. Compact evergreen
shrub 2 to 3 feet high. Dark glossy leaves and rosy-coloured, sweet-
scented flowers. Hardy, and not difficult to grow.

D. Genkwa—Peaty loam and half shade. A small deciduous
shrub of straggling growth. Greyish-coloured leaves and violet-
coloured flowers in clusters before the leaves come. A rare plant,
not hardy in cold districts.

D. Mezereum.—Light, warm soils. Erect habit, growing some
3 to 4 feet in height. Deciduous. Rosy-coloured, sweet-scented
flowers in early spring before the leaves appear. A fairly common
shrub in gardens. There is a white form which is prettier.

D. rupestris.—Peat and stones and silver sand in half-shady posi-
tion. Compact, very slow-growing little shrub. Waxy-pink flowers
in profusion. Hardy. One of the very choicest miniature shrubs.

Other varieties of Daphne, but of no special note, are—

D. Houtteana.—Grows 3 feet high. Small, dark purple flowers.:

Quite hardy,
D. striata,—Trailing habit. Sweet-scented, rosy-purple flowers
in clusters. Quite hardy, and a useful and attractive shrub.

DARLINGTONIA CALIFORNICA (SARRACENIACEAE)

The Californian pitcher plant. Requires a wet bog in fibrous
peat and sphagnum moss in sun. Pitchers rise as high as 2 feet.
Not very hardy. Should be sheltered from cold winds.

DELPHINIUM (RANUNCULACEAE), Larkspur

A genus of tall-growing, herbaceous plants, of which there are few
kinds suitable for the rock garden.

D. grandifiora.—tin ordinary soil. Grows about 18 inches high,
with very large, brilliant blue flowers. Easily raised from seed,
which produce a variety of shades of blue. There is also a white
form. They are very attractive plants, and should be used in
masses.

D. nudicaule.—Dry, sunny position, and well drained. Beautiful

—

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 269

orange-scarlet flowers, growing about 18 inches high. Not easy to
grow, except in a fairly dry climate. Seed germinates freely.

D. tatsienense.—Light sandy loam in full sun. Grows about 12
to 18 inches. Numerous bright blue flowers on branching stems
A most attractive plant of recent introduction.

DENTARIA (see CARDAMINE)

DiantHuS (CARYOPHYLLACEAE), Pink

A large genus of neat-habited plants essentially suited for the rock
garden. With few exceptions they are quite easy to grow. They
mostly like sunny, open positions in light soil, with a little lime
rubbish added. The wire-worm is a great enemy of this genus, and
should be guarded against.

D. alpinus.—Open position in rather moist, light soil, but will
not stand baking by the sun, so a half-shaded spot suits it best. It
requires plenty of moisture during the growing season. Forms neat,
compact tufts of dark glossy leaves. Large, handsome, carmine-
rose-coloured flowers spotted with crimson, about 3 inches high, in
June. Very floriferous. Easily raised from seed. A lovely little
plant, and one of the best of the genus, but a little uncertain, going
off suddenly without any apparent cause.

D. al. alba.—A white form of the above, but not as pretty as the
original, the coloar being rather a dirty white. Also a very free
bloomer.

D. al. grandiflorus.—I\s a new form of the type, claiming to have
larger and deeper-coloured flowers and to be of more robust
constitution.

D, Atkinsoni.—Light sandy soil. This is a hybrid, and about
the most brilliant-coloured of the genus. Spikes of flowers of the
richest crimson imaginable, and so very floriferous that it generally
blooms itself to death, putting all its vigour into the flower-spikes
and making no “grass.” It is advisable, therefore, to keep a stock
plant, cutting off all bloom-spikes, or to group several plants together
in the garden, only allowing some of them to flower in the same
season.

D. arenarius.—Requires a very dry, sandy, and sunny position.
A compact little plant, with numerous white, deeply fringed flowers,
with a carmine blotch at the base of petals. Blooms in May and
June.

D. arvenensis.—Delights in a sunny chink amongst rock, in
sandy loam. Compact little cushions of glaucous leaves and rose-
coloured flowers. A diminutive form of D. caescus, and very
pretty.

270 ROCK GARDENS

D. caesitus.—Old walls or sunny fissures in limy, sandy, poor soil.
Compact tufts of glaucous leaves and clouds of rosy-pink flowers, on
stems about 6 inches long. Blooms in the summer. The native
cheddar pink, growing freely from seed, which should be sown on old
walls and amongst rocks. One of the prettiest and easiest grown.

D. callizonus. — Rather cool, very well-drained, sandy loam,
amongst stone and rocks. Dwarf-growing, with broad, greyish
leaves, and of rather spreading habit. Large, brilliant pink flowers,
with a dark belt of crimson at base, about 4 inches high. A most
lovely and difficult plant to grow, going off in that unaccountable
manner so characteristic of many of the alpine pinks. Easily raised
from seed when it can be obtained; but it ripens it but sparingly.
Keep well watered during growing season.

D. cal. alpinus.—I\s a hybrid of the above with a//znus, and is of
more robust constitution.

D. cruentus.—Light gritty, sandy loam, in sun. Foliage rather
sparse. Deep crimson flowers in crowded heads on stems about
12 inches high. Very easily grown and raised from seed.

D. deltoides—Will grow almost anywhere in light sandy soil.
Forms spreading mats, about 2 inches high, of smooth, blunt leaves.
Flowers very numerous, on branching stems about 8 inches high,
either rosy-pink or white, with a crimson base and petals. Comes
very freely from seed. Easily grown, and apparently not affected
by the wire-worm. Flowers nearly all the summer. Young plants
are best, as when old they are apt to get ragged in growth. Very
pretty and useful species. Szferbus is a bright ruby-red variety
and very pretty.

D. Fischeri.—Half-shady position in rather moist, gritty loam,
Light, rose-coloured, solitary flowers, 3 to 4 inches high, freely pro-
duced in the summer.

D. Freynit.—Peaty, gritty loam, without lime, in a cool, well-
drained corner. Glaucous foliage and large rosy-purple flowers,
Dwarf of habit, and difficult to grow.

D. fragrans.—Light sandy loam,in sun. Fragrant white flowers,
deeply fringed. Pretty and compact-growing.

D. glacialis.—Crevices of rockwork in half-shady corner. It re-
quires cool, peaty, and leaf-mould soil mixed with granite chips. It
very much dislikes lime. Forms compact tufts of narrow leaves,
and during the summer numerous pink flowers rather smaller than
D. alfinus. A pretty and attractive little plant, very difficult to
cultivate. Requires plenty of moisture during the growing season.

D. g. gelidus.—Of much the same habit, and requires similar
treatment as D. glactalis. Pure pink flowers, white spotted at the
throat.

D. Knappit.—Light sandy soil and lime rubbish. In position not

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 271

fully exposed to the sun. Heads of sulphur-coloured flowers on
prostrate stems, about 12 inches long. Distinct on account of the
colour of its flowers, but is a ragged and weak-growing plant of but
secondary beauty and little value. Grows freely from seed.

D. monspessulanus.—Sandy loam in sun. Pink fringed flowers
on slender stems about 12 inches long, rather similar to D. swperbus.
A pretty and useful plant. Varieties of above are a/bus and
dependens.

D. neglectus.— Light sandy loam and lime rubbish, in sun.
Compact tufts of grass-like, wiry, glaucous leaves about 2 inches
high, from which rise on slender stems, about 3 inches long, numerous
bright rosy-pink flowers, having the undersides buff-coloured.
Blooms from June to September. Comes very readily from seed,
though by this means the colour of the blooms is apt to vary
somewhat as to shade. WD. neglectus is the gem of the genus.
Lovely and dainty in appearance, and of the easiest culture, it
should be freely grown, and can be associated with the choicest
plants.

D. petraeus.—Dry, sunny position in sandy, limy loam. Compact,
hard tufts of narrow, sharp-pointed leaves, 1 to 2 inches high. Rosy-
white, solitary flowers. Hardy, and of easy culture.

D. plumarius.—Sandy soil on sloping bank. The original from
which many of the garden pinks were raised. It has pink and
fragrant flowers, is easily grown, and is useful for massing in the
less choice parts.

D. Robinsonit.—Sandy loam, in sun. An attractive hybrid, bear-
ing, on 12-inch stems, large double salmon-pink flowers of a most
delicate shade. A most persistent bloomer, being in flower for
about nine months of the year. Of easy culture, and quite hardy.

D. sylvestris.— Open, sunny position in dry, stony, and sandy loam.
Flat tufts of rather sparse leaves, and on stems 6 to 8 inches long
two or three rosy-pink flowers. A lovely species, but having the
same characteristic of some of the alpine pinks of dying off without
warning.

D. suavis.—Sandy loam, in any situation. Should be planted to
fall over the face of a rock. Forms rapidly spreading, compact
mats of stiff, grass-like leaves, from which spring countless small
white, rather flat-shaped flowers, borne singly on slender stems, and
about 6 inches long. Quite hardy, and easily increased by rooted
layers. Quite one of the best, although not as brilliantas some. Its
delightful habit of growth would give it a place in the front rank.

These comprise about the best and most distinctive varieties of
Dianthus, for although there are many others, they have more a
botanical than garden value. New hybrids are constantly being
advertised in catalogues, some of which are acquisitions. There

eagle) ROCK GARDENS

are also numerous garden hybrids, pinks rather stronger-growing
than most of the above, but in the larger rock gardens should be

used in big masses. The following are some good kinds :—“ Her
Majesty,” large white; “ Mrs Simékins,’ well known, fragrant
white pink ; “ Wellie” ; “Edmond Maithewit,’ crimson, with a

darker crimson blotch, very handsome ; “ Primcess May,” apricot
pink ; and many others.

DIAPENSIA LAPPONICA (DIAPENSIACEAE)

A rare little evergreen shrub of very dwarf habit. Requires
damp, peaty, and gritty soil in open position. It grows in dense,
rounded tufts, with narrow leaves, I to 2 inches high. Cup-shaped,
solitary flowers, pearly-white, with yellow stamens, in the summer.
Hardy, but not easy to cultivate. Easily raised from seed.

DIASCIA BARBARA (SCROPHULARIACEAE)

The only representative of the genus. Ordinary soil in any
position. Grows about 4 to 6 inches high. Flowers salmon
pink, freely produced. Spreads freely underground. It is in
flower practically the whole year. It is reputed to be only half-
hardy, but I have never found it suffer in the least, although it
has been exposed to very hard frosts. Increased readily by
division. A most attractive and uncommon plant.

DIcENTRA (syn. DIELYTRA) (PAPAVERACEAE)

A genus of graceful-growing plants, useful for wilder part of the
rock garden. The following are a selection of the best kinds :—

D. canadensis.—Grows about 6 inches high. Flowers white, in
May. Leaves glaucous.

D. eximia.—Shady position, rich, sandy soil. Pretty, fern-like
foliage. Grows 12 to 18 inches high. Reddish-purple flowers,
borne in long drooping racemes.

D. formosa.—Dwarfer-growing form of the above, with lighter-
coloured flowers. Requires same treatment and position.

D. spectabilis—A well-known plant, with its pink heart-shaped
blooms, which give it the popular name of “ the bleeding heart.”

DIPHYLLEIA CYMOSA (BERBERIDACEAE), Umbrella Leaf

A dwarf plant, growing about 9 inches high, of the Barberry
family. It likes very moist peat and is suitable for edges of streams
or in the bog garden. Large, umbrella-like leaves, arranged in
pairs, and loose clusters of white flowers, in June, succeeded by
dark blue berries.

bea CA

MUPMABRAICAL LIST OF PLANTS, 27%

DOoDECATHEON (PRIMULACEAE), American Cowslip

Attractive and distinct plants, very closely allied to the Primulas.
They are all of easy culture in cool, half-shady, and rather moist,
sandy, and leafy soil. They all have clusters of flowers like
Cyclamens, borne on the top of upright stems.

D. Hendersoni.—Clusters of Cyclamen-like, rich, deep, crimson
flowers, on stems about 12 inches high.

D. integrifolia—Moist, peaty loam and stone chips in half
shade in the bog garden. Tufts of small, rather oval, and entire
leaves. Clusters of rosy-crimson flowers, on stems 4 to 6 inches
high, in early summer. This is the best of the genus and the most
difficult to cultivate. Easily raised from seed, which it ripens freely.

D. Jeffreyt.—Has larger and thicker leaves than the type, and
of a darker green. Flowers rich, dark rose colour, borne on
stems 18 inches to 2 feet high. The largest of the genus, anda
good plant for a sheltered spot in the bog garden, where its big
leaves will not be torn by the wind.

D. Meadia (Shooting Star).—Varies a good deal in the colour ot
its flowers, in shades varying from lilac to purplish-rose. Quite
hardy, and of easy culture and readily grown from seed. This
well-known plant should find a place in every bog garden.

Donpia Epipactus (syn. HacQueEttia)

A dwarf-growing plant about 4 inches high, very distinctive on
2 of the bright yellow involucre which surrounds its rather
insignificant greenish-yellow flowers. It is quite hardy, and easily
grown in stiff loam, and is one of our earliest plants to flower.

DOUGLASIA LAEVIGATA (PRIMULACEAE)

Gritty loam in open position. Closely allied to the Androsaces.
Of dwarf and tufted habit, bearing bright carmine flowers. One of
the gems for the rock garden.

DraBa (CRUCIFERAE), Whitlow Grass

A genus of minute plants, with white or yellow flowers, requiring
sandy soil in full sun, and should be associated with the dwarfest-
growing plants.

D. aizoides.—Sandy soil on a sunny bank. Forms dense little
tufts about 3 inches high. Slow to increase. Flowers freely
produced, and of a bright yellow colour, in March. Increased by
division and seed.

D. Atzoon.—Sun, in sandy soil. Forms compact rosettes of dark
green, stiff little leaves, with small, bright yellow flowers, on 3-inch
stems. A pretty and very early-flowering little plant, of easy
culture, and readily raised from seed, which it ripens freely.

18

274 ROCK GARDENS

D. alpina.—Well-drained chinks in the rock garden, in light soil,
and sun. Grows about 2 inches high. Dark green leaves and
bright golden flowers. A delicate and difficult plant to grow.
The attacks of slugs should be guarded against. Nearly allied to
this is D. aurea, with taller-growing flowers, and less compact
habit.

D. ciliata.—Has white, diminutive flowers. Growth only about
2 inches high.

D. cinerea (syn. D. borealis). — Good white flowers, and
dark green leaves, of free-growing habit. Seeds and division.
Biennal.

D. cuspidata,—Very small tufts of dark green ciliated leaves, and
yellow flowers, in March. Increased by seed.

D. grandifiora.—The largest-growing of the genus, with white
flowers.

D.imbricata.—Forms dense green carpet from which rise tiny
yellow blossoms on threadlike stems 3 inches high. Flowers in
spring. Very dainty.

Other varieties, all of very diminutive growth, are—D. bruniejolia,
ciliaris, Kotschyi, Olympica, and rigida, all bearing yellow
flowers. Those with white flowers are — D. bryotdes, Mawit,
nivalis, and salamonti.

DRACOCEPHALUM (LABIATAE), Dragon’s Head

This genus, though generally considered herbaceous plants, give
a few varieties suitable for the rock garden. They can all be
increased by seed or division.

D. grandifilorum (syn. D. altaicense.—Requires very well-
drained, sandy loam. Of rather compact, shrubby habit, growing
only about 8 to 12 inches high. Narrow, greyish leaves, and
handsome blue flowers, in early summer, in whorled spikes not
very easy to grow in any but a dry climate. Young plants should
be protected from the attacks of slugs. Increased by division.

D. Ruyschiana.—Light sandy soil, well drained, on elevated
spots. Spreading, rather prostrate habit, of fairly rapid growth.
Rosy-purple flowers, freely produced in late summer. Increased
by seed or division. Jafonica is a deeper and better-coloured
form of this, and altogether a finer plant.

Other suitable varieties, all requiring the same conditions as to
soil and position, are—

D. austriacum.—tLarge blue flowers, in whorled spikes.

D. botroides.—Purple flowers in June.

D. speciosum.—Grows about 18 inches high, with pink and blue
flowers, in July.

a ae

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 275

DrosERA (DROSERACKAE), Sundew

Interesting little sundews for the bog garden, growing them in
wet sphagnum moss. Besides our native kinds, D. zutermedia,
D. longifolia, and D. obovate, we should try the North American
sundew, D. filiformis, with its rose-purple-coloured flowers, and
glandular, hairy leaves. It is quite hardy, but difficult to cultivate
even in wet sphagnum moss.

Dryas (ROSACEAE)

A small genus of woody, spreading plants of much beauty and
value.

D. octopetala (syn. D. tntegrifolia)—Mountain Avens. Sunny
slopes, peaty loam, well drained, yet rather moist. Likes limestone.
Of close, prostrate, creeping habit, free-growing,and forming a carpet
of dark green leaves, which in winter turn brown, looking as if the
plant had died. Large creamy-white flowers, with yellow stamens
like the Burnet rose. Profusion of blooms in summer, followed by
fluffy-headed seed-vessels, like those of the “ traveller’s joy” clematis.
A native, and quite hardy, and of easy culture. Increased by layers
and seed. One of the gems for the rock garden, which should be
freely grown, not alone on account of its flowers, but also for the
fluffy seed-vessels.

The variety #znor is dwarfer and more dense in growth; alsoa
treasure. :

D. Drummondit.—Requires same treatment as above, which it
exactly resembles, except that it has pale yellow flowers, which,
however, have the reputation of not opening.

D. lanata.—Poor stony soil on sunny slopes. Small silvery
leaves. Creamy-white flowers, smaller and in greater profusion
than D. octopetala, of which it may be regarded as practically a
miniature form. A really good plant.

D. tenella is a rare species from Labrador, rather similar to
octopetala,

EDRIANTHUS (see WAHLENBERGIA)

EMPETRUM NicRiuM (EMPETRACEAE), Crowberry

Dwarf evergreen shrub, growing about 12 inches high. Like a
heath, it has black berries. Aubrum has red berries. Both of
easiest culture in damp, peaty soil, and may be used with the
dwarfer shrubs. Evergreen.

276 ROCK GARDENS

EPIGAEA REPENS (ERICACEAE)

A small, trailing evergreen shrub, Requires shelter from cold
winds in a shady position, in peaty, fibrous loam and sand. Very
pretty, fragrant, rose-coloured flowers in terminal racemes in early
spring. Difficult to grow. Grows wild in parts of North America
in sandy, rocky soil, under the shade of pines.

EPILOBIUM (ONAGRACEAE) “ Willow Herb”

Few of this genus are suitable, being generally of too coarse and
rank a growth. Increased by seed and division.

£. Dodonaet (syn. E. Fleischeri).—Sandy, gritty soil. Of rather
shrubby habit, with rosy-red flowers in July. Pretty and useful.

£. nummularifolium.—Of creeping habit and very rapid growth.
Pale pink flowers. As it spreads rapidly, it should be given plenty
of room.

E. obcordatum.— Also of creeping habit and rapid growth.
Cherry-pink flowers. Looks well planted to fall over a stone.
Requires a moist, well-drained spot.

EPIMEDIUM (BERBERIDACEAE), Barrenwort

A genus of perennial plants, with pretty foliage, and suitable for
associating with the dwarfer shrubs. They all grow about 12 inches
high, with pretty, though not striking flowers, which are half hidden
by the foliage. They should be grouped together in peaty soil in
shade, in which position they should thrive well and give a pleasing
effect. The following are a good selection :—

£. alpinum.—F lowers crimson and yellow.

E. coccineum.—Red flowers ; foliage turns red in autumn.

£. niveum.—White.

£. roseum.—Rose-coloured.

£. rubvum.—Dark red.

E. sulphurium.—Y ellow.

EpPIPpACTIS PALUSTRIS (ORCHIDACEAE)

A hardy orchid, with handsome, slightly drooping flowers,
whitish, tinged crimson. Spreads fairly rapidly underground.
Thrives in any moist, peaty soil. A good plant for the bog
garden. Blooms in July.

ERANTHIS HyEMALIS (RANUNCULACEAE), Winter Aconite

This well-known “harbinger of spring” needs no description.
Patches of it, if planted in odd corners, will brighten our rock
garden with its yellow blossoms in January.

To eee Mae

Stes Ae ee

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 277

Erica (ERICACEAE), Heath

A large genus of well-known shrubs, some growing into almost
trees, while others are prostrate, shrubby plants. They all require
peaty soil and hate lime in any form. The following are the
dwarfer kinds suitable for the rock garden :—

£. carnea.—Prostrate-growing, delightful little plant, gladdening
our hearts with its rosy-pink flowers in January. A well-known
plant, which should be freely grown. There is a white form,
E. c. alba, equally attractive, blooming at the same time. It also
goes by the name of &. herbacea.

£. cinerea.—Rather taller-growing than the last. Flowers vary
considerably in shades of white and pink. Amongst its varieties
are alba, bicolor, coccinea, purpurea, and rosea.

E. lusitanica (syn. £. codonodes).—A lovely shrub, often growing
4 feet high. White flowers tipped with pink, borne in wreaths
during the winter. Perfectly hardy, and a precious shrub, and
quite one of the prettiest and best.

E. mediterranea.—A lovely, peat-loving shrub, growing 3 to 5
feet high, flowering in spring.

E.. Tetralix.—The well-known bell-heather, growing in moist,
boggy places on our moors. It will also do in ordinary garden soil.

E. vulgaris (syn. Calluna vulgaris).—The well-known common
“Ling,” and, being quite indifferent to soil, may be used for the
wilder parts of the rock garden. There are many varieties, some
of which are of little value. The best are £. v. alba, pilosa, Alportii
rubra and rosea, serlet, hypnoides, py zmea, tenella, and tomentosa.

£. dabaecia (syn. Menztesta polifolia).—A lovely shrub, growing 18
inches to 2 feet high, and found wild in the west of Ireland. It does
best in a partially shaded position in peaty loam. Bears during the
summer and autumn a profusion of large drooping bells, borne in
racemes of a crimson-purple colour. There are few more beautiful
shrubs grown. There are several varieties : e/a, a white one, even
prettier than the type. A deeper-coloured form, atropurpurea ; and
one with purple and white flowers, called dzcolor.

E. Vettchit is a cross between £&. lusctanica and arborea, and is
well worth growing and quite hardy.

ERIGERON (COMPOSITAE)

A genus of plants with large daisy-like flowers, resembling the
Michaelmas daisies. Only the dwarfer kinds are suitable for
growing in the rock garden. The following are a selection, all of
which are of easy culture in a half-shady position in good loam.

E. alpinus.—Like an inferior Aster alpinus. Pale blue flowers.

278 ROCK GARDENS

But the variety, evandifiorum, is good, with large, deep blue, daisy-
like flowers.

E. aurantiacus.—Large orange-coloured flowers. Floriferous and
pretty.

£.. Coulteri.—Large white flowers, with golden centres. Blooms
late into the autumn. A handsome plant.

£. glaucus——Smooth glaucous leaves. Large deep lavender-
coloured flowers, from July to October.

E. letomerus.—Small tufted species. Narrow grey-green leaves,
and lovely pale violet-blue flowers. Quite one of the best of the
genus and quite hardy and easily grown.

E. mucronatus (syn. Vittadenia triloba).—Prostrate and much-
branched habit, bearing a profusion of white, small, daisy-like
flowers the whole summer. A very charming plant, of rapid
growth. Easily raised from seed. Quite indifferent to soil or
aspect. Not very hardy.

E. Royleiz.—Dwarf tufted habit. Bluish-purple flowers, with a
yellow centre. Very pretty.

E. trifidus.—Small blue flowers. Dwarf habit, only growing 3 to
4 inches high. Rather a distinct plant.

Of the taller-growing kinds, the following are all good :—
£. glabellus, \ilac flowers; £. salsuginosus, pale lilac flowers ;
and £. speciosus splendens, with deep lilac-coloured flowers.

ERINUS ALPINUS (SCROPHULARIACEAE)

A pretty little plant, admirable for growing in old walls and in
any odd chink, or for crevices between steps. Forms very dwarf
tufts of downy, toothed leaves. Rosy-purple flowers in racemes the
whole summer. There is a white form, and also a very hairy
form, hirsuta.

ERIOGONUM UMBELLATUM (POLYGONACEAE)

Small shrubby plant. Requires a sunny position in sandy loam.
Forms a dense, spreading tuft, with numerous yellow flowers in
umbels, borne on stems 4 to 8 inches high. Quite hardy, and
blooms profusely during the autumn. Seed or division,

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 279

ERIOGYNIA PECTINATA

A distinct plant, nearly allied to the Spiraeas. It is an evergreen
of trailing, tufted habit, spreading by means of slender stolons.
Bright green, ferny foliage. White flowers in terminal spikes.
Likes a shady corner in good sandy loam. A pretty little plant.

ERITRICHIUM NANUM (BORAGINACEAE)

An alpine gem, which so far has defeated all efforts to cultivate
with any degree of success. Its needs, though few, are difficult to
supply. No moisture during the winter, while during the spring
and summer it requires moisture at its roots, but none on its leaves.
This, though it may sound simple, is not so easy to supply. The
following method may be tried. Plant in a mixture of coarse
sand, grit, and granite dust, and a little fibrous peat, under some
overhanging rock fully exposed to the sun. Round the neck of the
plant sink pieces of slate in such a way that the moisture from the
overhanging ledge is directed towards the roots of the plant, and
also place stones on the surface of the ground to keep its leaves
dry. It makes tufts of tiny little woolly leaves, from which in
spring rise, in the greatest profusion, diminutive flowers of the most
dazzling azure-blue, with a yellow eye. A gem indeed, and worth
any amount of trouble to obtain success.

Eropium (GERANIACEAE), Heron’s Bill

Dwarf-growing plants of the Geranium order, requiring warm,
dry, sunny spots. All very lovely, and worth growing in the
choicer parts of the garden.

E. guttatum.—Pretty silvery, fern-like foliage, forming a neat
tuft, with pure white flowers veined with purple, borne on slender,
branching stems. A dainty and attractive plant, but not very
robust.

E. macradenum.—Dwarf - growing. Violet-pink flowers with
deep purple markings, borne on stems about 4 inches high, in June
and July.

E. cheilanthifolium,—Fern-like leaves, with dark veining on its
white petals.

&. chrysanthum.—Has sulphur-coloured flowers,

280 ROCK GARDENS

E. corsitum.—Dwarf habit. Soft round leaves. Flower pink.
Gritty soil in dry position.

E. olympicum.—Of rather bushy habit. Silvery foliage. Loose
heads of delicate pink flowers. Very lovely.

E. pelargonifolium.—Sunny position in light gritty soil. Of
rather prostrate habit. Flowers white, marked with purplish-red.
This species rather resembles the greenhouse Pelargoniums both as
to flower and leaf. Rather a tender plant, liable to die off in the
winter, and possibly for this reason is not as much used as it
deserves to be.

E. petracum.—Warm and dry chinks. Grows about 5 inches high,
with smoothish, pinnate leaves, and purple flowers in June.

E. Reichardt (syn. E. chamaedryoides)—Very dwarf-growing,
making flat tufts of little heart-shaped leaves, and solitary white
flowers, very faintly veined with pink. Likes moist, sandy soil. A
wee, dainty plant.

E. supracanum.—This plant has hoary leaves and bright pink
flowers. Very lovely.

ERYSIMUM (CRUCIFERAE), Hedge Mustard

Very similar, but not so good as Wallflowers. The best of the
genus are—

E. comatum.—Narrow, silvery foliage and yellow flowers.

E. linifoltum.—tLilac flowers. Very profuse bloomer, and free
grower. About the best of the genus.

E. pulchellum (syn. E. rupestre).—Blooms profusely in spring and
autumn, and has bright golden-yellow flowers.

E. rhaeticum.—Densely tufted, covered with clear yellow flowers
in early summer. They all like dry and sunny positions in well-
drained, gritty soil. Increased by seed.

ERPETION RENIFORME (syn. VIOLA HEDERACEA)

A small and delicate little plant, only half hardy, covering the
ground with a mass of small leaves, and has slender, creeping
stems. Blue and white flowers, very pretty, and only about 2 inches
high. It likes a shady position in good sandy loam. Except in a
warm climate, it will require to be lifted in the autumn and taken
into a cold house.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 281

ERYTHRAEA (GENTIANACEAE)

A genus of pretty, dwarf-growing plants with pink flowers. They
like a partial shady position. Increased by seed. The two best are—

E. diffusa.—A rapid grower, with pink blossoms in summer in
great profusion.

E.. Muhlenbergt.—Grows about 8 inches high, with a profusion
of flowers, about 34 inches across, of a deep pink colour, with a
greenish-white star in the centre. Blooms in the spring.

ERYTHRONIUM (LILIACEAE)

The “ Dog’s-tooth” Violet, a well-known genus of bulbous plants
of the easiest culture, and may be planted in odd nooks in the rock
garden. A selection can be made from any bulb catalogue.

FRAGARIA MONOPHYLLA (RosAcEAE), Alpine Strawberry

This form of the wild strawberry, with its large white flowers, is
a pretty plant for the rock garden, to cover some waste bank.

fF. indica.—\Is a pretty trailer, flowering later, and has golden-
yellow flowers and red, insipid fruit.

FRITILLARIA (LILIACEAE), Fritillary

These distinct and graceful bulbous plants, though not strictly
rock plants, can be grouped with good effect in shady corners, in
rich, well-drained soil. There are a great number of species, of
which a selection should be made.

Fucusia (ONAGRACEAE)

A genus of shrubs which are hardy only in a warm climate or
near the sea. There are many lovely varieties, but, being so
delicate, cannot be generally used.

F. procumbens.—Sunny position in light sandy soil. A trailing
species, with erect, yellowish-green flowers and large purple berries.
Only half hardy.

F. pumila—A dainty, dwarf, erect-growing shrub, bearing a
profusion of crimson flowers in the summer. Needs protection in
the winter.

GALAX APHYLLA (DIAPENSIACEAE)

An evergreen perennial plant with a creeping rootstock. It should
be planted in moist, sandy, peaty loam, in partialshade. The round,
shiny leaves, on slender stalks, in autumn and winter, assume a

282 ROCK GARDENS

brilliant crimson colour if planted in a position exposed to the
sun, In June appears a wand-like spike of small white flowers
about 12 inches high. Hardy, and easily grown in the raised parts
of the bog garden. Increased by division. A very pretty subject.

GAULTHERIA (ERICACEAE)

A large genus of low-growing, evergreen shrubs for the peat bed.
The following are the most suitable :—

G. procumbens (Creeping Wintergreen).—Moist peat or loam, in
half shade. A pretty, very dwarf-growing evergreen shrub. Pro-
cumbent habit, forming dense masses, about 6 inches high, of shining
leaves, and in June small, pendulous, white flowers, succeeded by red
berries. Quite hardy, and increased by division. An attractive
little shrub for a moist spot.

G. nummularioides.—Moist peat and sand, in half shade. A
small, evergreen, creeping shrub, about 4 inches high, with wiry
stems. White, Lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, tinged pink, in
summer, succeeded by scarlet fruit.

G. tricophylla.—Moist, peaty, and stony soil, in half shade. Com-
pact grower, forming tufts of box-like dark green leaves margined
with minute hairs. Pinky-white, small, bell-shaped flowers, in
summer, followed by large, indigo-blue berries. Quite hardy, and
propagated by division. A very pretty little creeping shrub. It is
a good plan to plant it in a slight saucer-shaped hollow amongst
stones. The berries are most attractive.

G. Shallon.—A coarse-growing, evergreen shrub, with dark green
leaves, so not particular as to soil. Useful for planting under trees
in the wilder parts, but too rampant a grower for the choicer parts.
White flowers and purple berries.

GazANIA (CoMposiITAE)

A genus of very handsome plants, which unfortunately are not
quite hardy, but can easily be propagated by cuttings, made from
the side shoots near base of plant. These should be taken in July
or August, never in the spring, and inserted in sandy loam in a
close frame.

They all require a position in full sun, in light sandy loam and
peat.

G. bracteata (syn. G. nivea).—Leaves 5 to 8 inches long, grown
in the form of a rosette. Flowers 2 inches across, white, with a
yellow disk.

G. b. grandifiora.—A hybrid, G. bracteata x G. splendens.

G. montana.—Prostrate habit. Flowers pale yellow,

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ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 283

G. pyzmaea.—Dwarf habit. Flowers small, white, with a purplish
band.

G. Pavonia.—Grows about 18 inches high. Leaves hairy.
Flowers yellow, with a brown spot at base, with a green tinge.
Blooms in July. A handsome plant.

G. rigens.—Grows about 12 inches high. Leaves spatulate and
hairy. Flowers of a brilliant golden colour, in June.

G. spiendens.—Trailing habit. Leaves a silky white beneath.
Flowers brilliant orange colour, with a black and white spot at the
base of each ray-floret. Blooms July to October.

G. uniflora.—Decumbent habit, shrubby growth. Leaves downy
beneath. Flowers yellow. Blooms July and August.

There are also several hybrids of garden origin, some with
variegated leaves.

GENISTA (LEGUMINOSAE)

A genus of shrubs very nearly allied to the Cytisus ; in fact it is
not easy to distinguish one from the other. They all grow easily
in any dry, sandy loam, and are very useful and attractive. They
are a numerous genus, and the following is a selection of the dwarfer
and most suitable kinds. The tall-growing varieties can be used
with good effect for massing with other shrubs.

G. anglica.—A dwarf-growing, native shrub, seldom reaching
2 feet in height. The yellow flowers in leafy racemes appear in
June and July.

G. anxsantiea.—Very similar to the native G. ézmctora. Its yellow
flowers appear in late summer.

G. germanica.—Grows about 18 inches to 2 feet, with arching
branches and yellow flowers produced in summer and autumn.
A useful shrub. Very pretty.

G. hispanica (Spanish Gorse)—A most useful, very compact,
dwarf, evergreen shrub, only growing some 12 to 18 inches high,
with a profusion of yellow flowers the whole summer.

G. pilosa.—A dense, prostrate-growing shrub for dry, gravelly
soils, and yellow flowers very freely borne in May and June.

G. prostrata.—A creeping shrub, scarcely more than 2 inches
high. Yellow flowers very freely produced during the early summer.
A very useful and attractive evergreen shrub for growing over stones
or banks. One of the best.

G. vadiata.—Evergreen, much-branched spiny shrub, growing
3 to 4 feet high, and a wealth of yellow flowers during the summer.
Hardy, and one of the best and most useful of the genus.

G. sagittalis—A creeping shrub about 6 inches high. Very
distinct, with peculiar winged stems and a profusion of rich yellow
flowers. A shrub more peculiar than attractive.

284 ROCK GARDENS

G. tinctoria, fi. £1—A compact, dwarf-growing, deciduous shrub,
about 12 inches high, of spreading habit and fairly rapid growth.
Profusion of yellow flowers in the summer. Very useful and attractive.
There is a single form, but the double is the better of the two.

GENTIANA (GENTIANACEAE), Gentian

A very numerous genus of mountain plants, amongst which are
some gems for the rock garden. I shall deal only with the
perennial, for although there are many annual and biennial kinds,
their beauty is of too fleeting a nature to be suitable for our
purpose. The perennial kinds are, unfortunately, all somewhat
unreliable in cultivation, growing like weeds in some places, while
in others, under apparently similar conditions, unaccountably
pining away in a short time. They all exceedingly dislike dis-
turbance, and drought at certain times of the year is fatal
to them.

G. acaulis (“ Gentianella”).—South-east or south-westerly aspect,
on slight slope. Loam, plentifully mixed with limestone and gravel,
and well drained, though not so as to render the soil very dry. It
forms a dense carpet of compact tufts of glossy green leaves, from
which rise large tubular, deep blue flowers, in the spring and
summer. Quite hardy, and increased by division. This plant is
the well-known “Gentianella,” than which no more lovely plant
can be found in the rock garden. It is, however, very uncertain in
cultivation, for while in some places it will grow and flower freely
without the least trouble, in others no amount of care will make it
thrive. One thing specially to observe is to plant it deep and as
firmly as possible: to this particular attention should be paid.
With me, a gravel walk is what it revels in. It is also a good plan
to put chips of stones over the surface of the ground, which helps
to retain the necessary moisture, and amongst which its shoots like
to ramble. If the weather be very dry during the spring and
summer, it should be watered freely. It is difficult to lay down
any rules for its cultivation, for what appears to suit it in one garden
will not do so in another ; but if the above directions are carried
out, there is every reason to expect success. There is also a white
form, which is not so pretty as the type.

Very nearly akin to G. acau/is, and which may almost be taken as
varieties of it, are a/fina, which is rather smaller. Angustifolia,
deep blue throat and spotted with green. C/zszz, very similar to
alpina, has lanceolate leaves and very dark blue flowers. Coelestina,
sky-blue, with interior of throat white. Kochiana, elliptic-shaped
leaves and flowers spotted with black. All like a limestone soil,
except the last-named, which requires a soil free of it.

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ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 285

G. altiaca.—Ordinary soil. Open position. Head of blue flowers.
Prostrate habit. A new species from Altai Mountains. Easily
increased by seed.

G. angulosa.—In form very similar to G. verna, though more
robust and having rather taller-growing flowers. A very persistent
bloomer.

G. asclepiadea (Willow Gentian).—Rather moist loam. Sheltered
position in partial shade. A tall-growing, deciduous species,
reaching 3 feet. Numerous large deep blue flowers on willow-like
spikes. Quite hardy, and easily cultivated. This is rather more of
a herbaceous than a rock garden plant. There is a very handsome
white form.

G. bavarica.— Requires sunny position in sandy peat, very wet,
though thoroughly drained. Such a spot as the banks of a tiny
stream should suit it. Forms close, dense tufts, with very small, box-
like leaves of a yellowish-green. Deep sapphire-blue flowers, rather
larger than G. verna, borne in profusion. It is a very difficult
plant to grow, but a gem withal.

G. brachyphylla.—Likes limestone soil in sun. Tufted, compact
habit, with flowers slightly paler in shade than G. verna. Fairly
easy to grow.

G. ctliata.—Sunny, well-drained position in fibrous loam mixed
with broken limestone. Grows about 12 to 18 inches high, with
large, solitary flowers deeply fringed, and of a fine azure-blue colour.
Requires to be kept rather dry during the winter. It is not an
easy plant to cultivate.

G. decumbens.—Should have a sunny position in rather moist,
gritty loam. Prostrate stems with numerous flowers of a fine blue
colour, borne in terminal spikes. Blooms in July and August.
It is of comparatively easy culture and quite hardy. There is also
a white form of good colour.

G. Favrata.—-Sun in moist, stony peat andloam. Forms compact
tufts, and has large deep blue flowers. It is a natural hybrid
between davarica and verna, and is of fairly easy culture.

G. freyniana.—Sandy loam in half shade. The clusters of
brilliant blue flowers are freely borne in July. Rather an uncommon
species, but very lovely, and not specially difficult to grow.

G. Kurroo.—Sunny position; sandy peat and leaf-soil mixed
with pieces of stone. Rosettes of smooth leaves about 4 inches
high. Branching stems, with flowers of brilliant azure-blue, in July
and August. Fairly easy to cultivate.

G. ornata.—Cool gritty loam or moraine. Forms a fairly compact
carpet of dark green leaves. Flowers a lovely shade of pale blue
inside, the outside of the corolla tube a rich chocolate purple striped
with ivory yellow. A recent introduction from the Himalayas. A

286 ROCK GARDENS

glorious plant, which does not appear difficult to grow and should
prove a valuable acquisition.

G. Pneumonanthe.—Moist, peaty loam, in sun. Grows about
6 inches high, of a fine blue colour. A native, and of easy culture.
It is well worth a spot in the rock garden.

G. Przewalskiz.—Moist loam and peat. Sun. Forms loose tufts
of long, narrow leaves. Prostrate stems and deep blue flowers in
clusters. Not very free-flowering. Easy to cultivate and readily
raised from seed. A delightful plant, which should be freely grown.
It blooms in July.

G. pyrenaica.—Full sun, in moist peat and loam. Procumbent
habit. Forms tufts of narrow, sharp-pointed leaves. Dark violet,
almost stalkless flowers. It is a difficult species to grow, but one
of the best.

G. seplemfida.—Requires full sun, in moist, sandy peat and loam.
Bears flowers in clusters on stems about 9g inches high. Blue and
white inside, and brown outside. Of fairly easy culture in a cool,
moist position. A very lovely plant, flowering in August.

G. verna.—Requires sun, in moist, peaty loam and limestone
chips. Forms compact tufts about 14 inches high, from which
spring flowers about 3 inches high, of the most dazzling azure-blue.
Seed and division. A lovely little gem, and one of the choicest
rock plants, but, though a native, is not easy to keep when grown in
the garden. Good tufts of it, to start with, are essential, and copious
waterings during the spring and early summer. It likes very
fibrous loam, so a good plan is to half bury a sod of turf, grass side
down, and plant the Gentian in it. Firm planting is also very
important ; after the winter’s frost it is well to go round and press
the plants firmly home. Protecting the plants with glass during
the winter has proved effective in promoting growth and flowers.
It is so lovely that no trouble should be spared to endeavour to
grow it, trying it in different positions. South-east is a good
aspect.

This completes the selection of the dwarf choicer varieties of
Gentians. There are many others also of low-growing habit, but
they are either very nearly akin to G. acaulis or G. verna, without
having their brilliancy of flower,so are scarcely worth growing,
except in a botanical collection. Of the taller and coarser-growing
varieties, most of which, though easy of culture, are only suitable
for the rougher parts, the following are the most showy of this
description :—G. Andrewsit, Burseri, lutea, saponaria, all require
moist loam and bear blue flowers, with the exception of /u¢ea, which
has yellow blossoms, and is the strongest-growing of the genus,
reaching 3 feet in height.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 287

GeraniuM (GERANIACEAE), Crane’s Bill

A genus of showy perennials, but too strong-growing for the rock
garden, with the exception of the following. They are all of easy
culture in sandy, well-drained loam, and are not particular as to
aspect, provided they get a fair amount of sun. Propagated by
seed and division.

G. argenteum.—Grows about 6 inches high, with silvery-grey
leaves and large, pale rose-coloured flowers. A charming, compact-
growing plant, flowering in June; it should have a place amongst
the choicest plants.

G. cinereum.— A dwarf, compact-growing plant, with silvery
leaves and pink flowers veined with red. Quite a vigorous grower,
easily increased by seed or division. A very good plant for a choice
spot in the sun.

G. Endresst.—A useful plant, growing 9 to 12 inches high, with
rose-pink flowers freely produced during the summer.

G. Traversit.—Of prostrate habit, forming, by means of trailing
stems, a dense carpet of grey hairy foliage from which rise large
rose-pink flowers on slender stems ; these are very freely produced
during the summer. A recent and valuable introduction from the
New Zealand Alps, and one that should be found in all rock
gardens.

G. sanguineum.—A close-growing plant, about 18 inches high,
of vigorous habit. Deep crimson-purple flowers, about 14 inches
across. A handsome and striking plant. The white form, a/éa, is
even more lovely. Both of these are of such strong growth that
they should not be associated with the more diminutive plants, but
are so lovely and of such easy cultivation that a place should be
found for them where they can have room to spread and form large
bold masses.

G. s. lancastriense.—Grows about 4 inches high, and has
pink flowers veined with red. It is a valuable and attractive
little plant of spreading, though not encroaching, habit, compact
in form and of easy culture. It is a rare British native found
on the coast of Lancashire. Readily increased by seed or
division.

G. sesstliflorum.—Forms compact little tufts, with whitish flowers
almost hidden by the foliage. More curious than pretty. Seed and
division.

G. subcaulescens.—Grows about 9 inches high, with large, rosy-
crimson flowers, and a dark eye. Pretty.

288 ROCK GARDENS

G. tuberosum.—Large, rosy-purple flowers. Grows about 9 inches
high.

G. wallichianum.—Grows about 6 inches high, of compact habit,
with large violet-blue flowers freely produced during the summer.
An attractive species of easy culture.

For massing in woods, or growing in the wilder parts of the rock
garden, the following will be found suitable :—

G. armenum.—Purplish-rose-coloured flowers of a large size.
Free-flowering and of vigorous habit.

G. grandifiorum.—Grows about 12 inches high with large rose-
purple-coloured flowers. An attractive and showy plant.

G. macrorhizum. — Large crimson flowers freely produced.
Grows 9 to 12 inches high, a vigorous and effective plant.

G. sylvaticum.—A vigorous-growing species with pink flowers
freely produced during the summer.

G. s. alva.—A white form of the above, and equally vigorous in
habit, free-flowering and attractive.

G. thericum (syn. G. platypetalum).—A very handsome plant, with
large blue flowers, and of vigorous habit.

GERBERA JAMSONII (CoMPOSITEAE), Transvaal Daisy

Sandy loam and peat. Hot, dry, and sunny aspect. Large
feathery leaves in a rosette. Tall, daisy-like flowers, 3 inches
across, of a most brilliant orange-scarlet colour. Scarcely hardy,
and, even in the most favoured climate, will in this country need
protection in winter. It requires to be kept dry during the winter.
Raised from seed, when fertile seed can be obtained. A great
number of lovely hybrids, between this plant and G. viridifolia,
have been raised, which are rather more robust.

GrEuM (ROSACEAE)

Though a fairly numerous genus, only a few are suitable for the
rock garden. They all like good sandy loam, in sun. Propagated
by seed or division.

G. Heldreichit—Forms a compact tuft, with brilliant orange-red
flowers, on stems about 12 inches high.

G. montanum.—Forms very compact rosettes, growing close to the
ground, and of a spreading habit. Large bright yellow-coloured
flowers, borne singly on stems about 5 inches high, and succeeded

ALPHABETICAL’ LIST OF PLANTS) 289

by feathery seed-vessels. A very pretty plant for the rock garden,
and of easiest culture. Increased by seed or division. There are
two varieties, azvantiacum, with rather deeper-coloured flowers, and
grandiflorum (syn. Maximum), which has larger flowers ; both are
good plants and should be grown.

G. reptans.—Requires rather a dry position, in full sun. Forms
compact tufts of greyish-green leaves, which are velvety and
rather deeply cut. Flowers are large and of a beautiful pale yellow
colour. The plant spreads rather quickly by means of slender
runners, which often extend as far as 8 or Io inches. Is rather a
shy bloomer, and it would be well to grow it in poor and very stony
ground. Quite the best of the genus. Division.

G. rvivale—Forms spreading tufts, increasing fairly rapidly.
Flowers rather a reddish colour, borne on stems about g inches
long. Increases very readily from seed. In bloom the whole
summer,

GLOBULARIA (SELAGINACEAE)

Creeping plants for dry, sunny positions in moist, light, sandy loam.
Not of very great value for rock garden. Increased by seed and
division.

G. cordifolia—Forms a dense carpet, only about 3 inches
high, with round, terminal clusters of blue flowers in early summer.
Of easy culture, and readily increased by seed or division.

G. nana.—Only grows about 1 inch high, forming a dense carpet
with compact heads of light blue flowers from May to August. Is
a pretty plant for growing over stones. Easily increased by seed
or division.

Other varieties are G. bellidifolia, nudicaulis, and trichosantha,
all of which are much the same and carry heads of bluish-white
flowers in early summer.

GNAPHALIUM (see LEONTOPODIUM AND ANTENNARIA)

GOODYERA PUBESCENS (ORCHIDACEAE)

A pretty little hardy orchid for a moist, peaty spot in shade. Its
flowers are white but insignificant, but its attraction lies in its leaves,
which lie close to the ground and are veined with silver. It likes
pieces of sandstone in the soil for its roots to cling around.

GUNNERA MAGELLANICA
Very prostrate, creeping plant for covering some moist corner ;

it spreads rapidly. Pretty leaves, not rising more than a couple of
inches from the ground. Den/a¢a is an even smaller form.

19

290 ROCK GARDENS

GYPSOPHILA (CARYOPHYLLACEAE), Chalk Plant

The dwarf-growing species of this genus are indispensable rock
plants, of the easiest culture. Although chalk-loving, they do quite
well in ordinary, well-drained soil in full sun.

G. cerastoides.—Only grows about 3 inches high, and of spreading
habit. Itis a fairly rapid grower, forming a good tuft in a couple of
years. In very sandy soil. Flowers are white, with violet streaks,
and are freely produced during the summer. A first-class plant,
and easily increased by division or seeds.

G. prostrata.—A rapid-growing, trailing plant, forming mats of
glaucous, succulent-looking foliage, and myriads of small white
flowers. Of easiest culture, and readily increased by layers or seeds,
A delightful plant for growing over a rock or bank. fosea is a
variety, having pink flowers equally floriferous.

G. repens.—Of creeping habit. Leaves glabrous. Flowers white
or rose-coloured. Shy bloomer. G. vefens Monstrosa is a variety,
larger in all its parts and rather coarse-growing.

G. Sundermanni.—Has glaucous foliage and pink flowers.

HABENARIA (ORCHIDACEAE)

A genus of hardy orchids charming for the bog garden. They
all require a moist soil composed of equal parts of sand, peat, and
leaf-mould, in partial shade. In order to protect the roots from the
sun, mulch the plants with mown grass. The following are the
best kinds to grow :—

H, blepharoglottis.— Beautifully fringed white flowers in June
and July.

FH. ciliaris.—Golden-yellow flowers, with a fringed lip, borne in
spikes about 12 inches high, in July.

HT. fimbriata.—Beautifully fringed lilac-purple flowers, borne in
long spikes.

H. psycodes.—Fragrant rosy-crimson flowers, borne in spikes
g inches long. Very pretty.

HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS (GESNERACEAE)

A shade-loving plant, forming rosettes of leaves very like
Ramondea pyrenaica,from which spring slender stalks about 4 inches
long, each bearing three to four flowers exactly like a Streptocarpus,
of a bluish-lilac colour, with a yellow throat. It requires to be
grown in fibrous peat, and should be planted in vertical fissures in
a northern aspect, where the sun never reaches. It can also be
planted on the level, but in such a way that rain cannot lie in the

=

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 291

rosettes, which would be likely to cause them to damp off. There
is a white form, vzvg7nalzs, even more lovely than the type. Both
increased by seed and careful division.

HABRANTHUS PRATENSIS (AMARYLLIDEAE)

A bulbous plant of much beauty and brilliancy. The flowers,
which are of the brightest scarlet, and feathered at the throat with
yellow, are borne on upright stems about 12 inches high. It is
easily grown in loam, leaf-mould, and sand, and is readily increased
by division. The variety /u/gens is the best form, and is a very
choice plant.

HEDYSARUM (LEGUMINOSAE)

A very numerous genus of plants belonging to the Vetch family,
some of which are good for the rock garden. They are quite easily
grown in sandy loam, in open, sunny spots. Increased by seed.

FT, multijugum.—A shrubby plant, growing about 2 feet, of
graceful habit, and having long panicles of crimson-purple flowers.
Propagated by seed or division.

HT, neglectum.—Very pretty flowers of a brilliant rosy-purple
colour. Blooms in June, and grows about 12 inches high.

FH. obscurum.—A creeping plant, growing from 9 to 12 inches
high, with brilliant purplish-crimson flowers in long spikes, in August.
It has silky leaves, and is a good rock plant, of free growth. Seed
and division.

HELIANTHEMUM (CISTACEAE), Sun Rose

A genus of shrubby plants, mostly dwarf-growing, and of the
greatest beauty and value for the rock garden. They are of the
easiest culture, all they require being a light, rather poor soil, fully
exposed to the sun. They all strike readily from cuttings. There
are an endless number of hybrids, both single and double, giving all
shades of yellow, pink, and crimson, any of which are well worth
growing. The blossoms, though only lasting the day, are borne in
such profusion that the flowering season lasts a long time. They
all require to be cut hard back after flowering, which induces them
to grow more compact ; for if this were not done, they would become
rather leggy and straggling. They all growrapidly. Not including
the various named hybrids, the following are the most distinctive
kinds :—

HT. canum.—A native plant only growing about 3 inches high, with
small pale yellow flowers.

HT, Tuberaria (syn. H. globulariaefolium).—Quite a distinct plant,
not having woody branches, but from the root sending up hairy,

292 ROCK GARDENS

plantain-like leaves. On stems about 9 inches high, yellow flowers,
about 2 inches across, are borne ; these droop when in the bud. It
blooms during the summer, and likes a warm aspect in good light
loam. Increased by seed or division.

HELICHRYSUM (ComposITAE), Everlastings

Hardy perennial plants requiring a hot, sunny position in loam.

Hi. arenarium.—Has grey, downy leaves. Flowers bright yellow,
borne on stems 4 to 8 inches high, which are furnished with narrow,
hoary leaves. Blooms in July.

H. bellidioides.—Gritty soilin sunny position. Prostrate habit
with small ovate silvery leaves. Pure white daisy-like flowers with
a yellowish eye. A dainty little plant from New Zealand and an
acquisition for the rock garden.

Hi. microphyllum.—A small bushy plant, with narrow, silvery-
coloured leaves and yellow flowers, in the summer.

HELLEBORUS (RANUNCULACEAE)

The well-known Christmas Rose and its varieties are so essentially
border plants, that I do not think it necessary to do more than
allude to them. In rock gardens of some size they can advan-
tageously be used.

HELONIAS BULLATA
A marsh plant, requiring moist, fibrous, peaty soil, in a shady
position. Rosettes of long, narrow leaves, and oval-shaped spikes
of small, rose-coloured flowers. A pretty, though not showy plant.

HeEpaTIca (see ANEMONE)

HERNIA GLABRA (ILLECEBRACEAE)
Carpeting plant of dense creeping habit, pretty deep green foliage,
and inconspicuous flowers. It will growin anysoil. Of no value
except for carpeting purposes. Awvea is a golden-leaved variety.

HESPEROCHIRON PUMILUS (HYDROPHYLLACEAE)

A very dwarf-growing plant, for a well-drained position, in light
loam. Forms a tuft of slender-stalked leaves. Flowers bell-shaped,
white, with a purple tinge, and half an inch across.

H. californicus.——Has white flowers with dark stripes, and
requires similar treatment.

HEUCHERA (SAXIFRAGACEAE), Alum Root

Of the Heucheras, though described in such glowing colours
in all catalogues, the best is A. sanguinea splendens, which is

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 293

a handsome plant, with its graceful sprays of coral-red flowers.
They all are easily cultivated in any ordinary, well-drained soil.
They require to be divided and replanted every few years, as they
grow out of the ground.

Hieracium (ComposiraE), Hawkweed

A very large genus, very few of which are suitable, being mostly
of too coarse and rank-growing a habit. They are all of the easiest
culture in any soil. Propagated by division in spring.

ff, rubra.—Dwarf-growing and spreading habit, very vigorous,
forming a carpet, only about 1 inch high, of dark green leaves.
The flowers, which are borne in great profusion on stems about 3
inches high, are of a brilliant, deep orange-red colour. It is in
bloom all the summer. A very pretty plant, but too strong-growing
to associate with the choicer rock plants. Increased by division.

ff. villosum.—Forms good tufts, about 6 inches high. Flowers
bright yellow, on stems about 12 inches long. The leaves and stems
are clothed with long, white, silky down, which gives it a very
attractive appearance. A good plant. Grows very freely from seed.

Other kinds are: A. aurantiacum, which is similar to rubra, but
flowers orange-yellow. Good for the wild garden, but too rampant
in growth for the choicer parts.

HH. gymnocephalum.—Y ellow flowers and silvery foliage. Grows
about g inches high.

#1. lanatum.—Y ellow flowers and evergreen, downy, leaves.

HIPPOCREPIS COMOSA (LEGUMINOSAE), Horseshoe Vetch

A prostrate-growing native plant, of trailing habit. Light, chalky
soil in sun. Small pinnate leaves, and deep yellow flowers in
clusters. A pretty and useful little plant for draping the face of a
rock. Hardy, and of easiest culture.

HORMINUM PYRENAICUM (LABIATAE)

Forms dense tufts of thick, crinkly leaves, from which rise spikes
of purplish-blue flowers in July and August. Not of easy culture.
Not a plant of much value or interest. Increased by seed and
division.

Hovustonia (RUBIACEAE)

Delicate and dainty-growing little plants, which are difficult to
succeed with, but they are worth some trouble. They like a soil
composed of peat, sand, leaf-mould, and fibrous loam, in an open,

294 ROCK GARDENS

but well-drained ledge. Require plenty of moisture during summer,
but in winter should be kept dry, by placing a piece of glass over
them. Propagated by careful division in the autumn, or by seed.

H. caerulea (Bluets)—¥orms dense cushions of bright green
leaves about half an inch high, which from May to July is thickly
studded over with lovely little pale sky-blue flowers, on thread-like
stems about 2 inches high. A most dainty little gem, and should
find a place among the choicest rock plants.

H. c. pallida has paler blue flowers, and a/éa, white. Both lovely.

H. purpurea.—Has purple flowers.

A. serpyllifolia.—Is even of dwarfer habit, and has white flowers.

HUTCHINSIA ALPINA (CRUCIFERAE)

A dainty, neat-growing little plant, forming dense little cushions
of dark green leaves about 3 inches high, which in summer are
covered with small pure white flowers in clusters. Grows readily
in any sandy soil, is of vigorous habit, and can easily be raised from
seed. In fact the trouble is to prevent it seeding itself over the rock
garden. A very charming little plant. :

FT. rotundifolia (see A-thionema cepeaefolium).

Hypericum (HyprricackEak), St John’s Wort

A large genus of shrubs, some quite tall-growing, while others are
little more than trailing plants. They are all of easy culture in
ordinary, light sandy loam, in an open position. Of the dwarf-
growing kinds.

H. Coris—Makes little tufty bushes about 9 inches high, with
small, blue-grey foliage, and numerous golden-yellow flowers. A
very pretty and amenable little plant, and one of the best of the
genus. Evergreen.

H.. empetrifolium.—A half-hardy, evergreen, shrubby plant, grow-
ing 6 to 12 inches high. Numerous small, golden-coloured flowers
in the summer.

H. fragilis.—A prostrate-growing evergreen plant, forming very
compact tufts, about 8 to 10 inches high, of slender branches, clothed
the whole length with small, bright green, ovate leaves. Large,
golden-yellow flowers borne in the greatest profusion the whole
summer. Of easy culture and quick growth, in any warm, well-
drained position, and readily increased by division. A very gem
for the rock garden ; the best of the family.

H. Kotschyanum.—Gritty loam in sun. A dwarf trailing species.
Flowers buff-coloured. Very pretty.

H. repens.—A dwarf, trailing plant, with small, heath-like foliage.

;
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ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 295

Flowers, borne in terminal racemes, are of a bright golden-yellow.
It is a pretty plant, but not nearly so good as H. reptans, with which
it must not be confused.

Hi. repians.—Forms a close mat, some 2 inches high, of long,
trailing stems. Small leaves and large golden-yellow flowers in the
greatest profusion from July to October. A very quick grower.
There is no better plant for covering a rock. Second only to
H. fragilis in value and beauty, and by some, in fact, considered
better.

The above represent the best trailing kinds. The following are
the choicest of the shrubby type:—Z. egypitacum, balearicum,
olympicum, Hlookerianum, and moserianum.

IBERIDELLA ROTUNDIFOLIA (CRUCIFERAE)

Acharming little plant, found at very high altitudes in the Alps.
It requires light shingly loam, well drained, and makes dense mats
only about 3 inches high. The glaucous, olive-green leaves are
thick and leathery. The flowers are bright rosy-lilac, and sweet-
scented. They are borne in some profusion from April to June. A
very delightful little plant, of easy culture, and coming freely from
seed. It should be grown among the choicest rock plants, and
should find a place in every garden.

IBeRIS (CRUCIFERAE), Candytuft

A genus of evergreen, dwarf-growing plants, of the easiest culture
in any light loamy soil, in an open situation. With one or two
exceptions, they are all quite hardy. Propagated by seeds, division,
or cuttings.

I. correacfolia.—Grows about 12 inches high, making quite a
shrubby little plant. Compact, flat heads of large, pure white
flowers. It blooms rather later than the other kinds, not coming into
flower until about the beginning of June. Of free and vigorous
growth, and easily increased by seed or cuttings. It is one of the
best.

I. gtbraltarican—A somewhat straggling-growing plant of some
12 inches high, with larger flowers and leaves than the other kinds.
The flowers, which are very 'freely produced, are borne in close
heads and of a rosy-lilac colour. It blooms about May. Not very
hardy, and, except in a favoured climate, should be protected during
the winter. Easily propagated by cuttings. A most attractive
plant, which is well worth taking some trouble about.

I. petraea.—Of very dwarf and prostrate habit, and a great pro-
fusion of white flowers. Very pretty species, of fairly easy culture
in good loam. It is given by some as a variety of /. Tenoreana.

296 ROCK GARDENS

I. sempervirens.—A dwarf-growing and well-known little ever-
green, shrubby plant. It bears a profusion of white, sweet-scented
flowers in April and May. Readily increased by cuttings and seeds.
It is hardy and of easy culture. Varieties of this plant, which are
rather better, are: “ Zz¢t/e Gem,” more compact and dwarfer in
habit, with smaller flowers. “ Szow/lake,’ an improved form of
sempervirens. More compact growth, and larger flowers of a purer
white. The best white of the family, blooming in April and May.

I. stylosa (syn. Noccaea stylosa).—A very dwarf-growing plant,
with pale lilac flowers, sweet-scented. Blooms in spring.

INCARVILLEA (BIGNONIACEAE)

A genus of plants of rather recent introduction, of which only a
few kinds are at present in cultivation.

I. Delavayi.—Requires a very deep root-run in good loamy soil,
plentifully mixed with sand and leaf-mould. It likes a half-shady
position. Handsome leathery leaves about 12 incheslong. Flowers
trumpet-shaped, and of a rosy-purple colour, borne in racemes on
stout stalks from 1 to 3 feet high. Quite easy to grow, provided the
crowns are kept fairly dry during the winter. It is a herbaceous
rather than a rock plant, and can easily be raised from seed.

1. grandifiora.—This is of dwarfer habit, with smaller leaves and
rather larger and better-coloured flowers. It requires the same
treatment and position as the last named. It comes equally freely
from seed.

I. Olgae.—Tall-growing, reaching about 3 feet. Pinnate leaves.
Rose-pink, trumpet-shaped flowers. Not a very hardy kind, nor a
very free bloomer.

I. variabilis.—Sl\ender stems and loose panicles of rose-coloured
flowers. Also of doubtful hardiness, and a shy bloomer.

InuLA (CoMPosITAE)

A genus of plants chiefly suitable for the herbaceous border, but
a few kinds can be used for the rock garden. These should be
associated with the more robust-growing plants. They are all of
easy culture in ordinary loam. They have large, composite flowers,
and are easily increased by seed or division.

I, acaulis—Dwarf foliage, and large yellow flowers on stems
about 6 inches high.

I. enstfolia.—Is of compact habit, and has yellow flowers, one or
more, on erect stems 9g inches high.

I. montana.—An early flowering species, growing about 9 inches
high.

ADPHABE TICAL bRIST OF PLANTS 297

IONOPSIDIUM ACAULE (CRUCIFERAE), Violet Cress

This, though only an annual, may be included, being such a dainty
little plant, which, when once established, sows itself, and causes no
further trouble. It likes rather a damp spot, and only grows from
I to 2 inches high, with small, pale violet-coloured flowers, borne in
endless profusion the whole summer. It often comes into flower a
couple of months after being sown. One of the very few annuals
admissible into the rock garden.

Iris (IRIDACEAE)

A very large genus of plants, wonderfully varied, both in habit
and flower. They are mostly too coarse-growing for the rock
garden, but a few of the dwarfer kinds are suitable. The following
are some of the best :—

I. arenarta.—Sandy soil in sun. Grows 3 to 4 inches high,
Flowers bright yellow, striped purplish-brown. Blooms in
May.

I. cristata.—Light sandy, stony soil on a level spot, in sun. Of
dwarf habit, spreading freely by means of rhizomes. Flowersa lovely
blue, and of a large size. A beautiful plant, of which the slugs are
inordinately fond. There is also a white form, @/da, which is very
lovely.

I. gracipiles.— Requires a partial shady position in fibrous loam,
well drained, and plentifully mixed with leaf-mould. A dwarf-
growing and very lovely little plant, with clear blue flowers shaded
with lilac. It is quite hardy and not difficult to grow.

I. lacustris.—This is a miniature form of /. cristata, with flowers
pale blue and gold. It requires similar treatment. A charming
and dainty plant.

J. verna.—Requires sandy peat and shady position. Only grows
about 4 inches high. Flowers a rich violet-blue, and sweet-
scented.

Other species suitable for growing in the rock garden, in light
soil and sunny position, are—J. alata, J. aphylla, I. Chamaetris and
its varieties, J. Aumzla and its varieties.

IsoPYRUM THALICTROIDES (RANUNCULACEAE)

A graceful and dwarf-growing little plant for a half-shady position
in light, rather poor soil. It has greyish-green leaves rather like a
maiden-hair fern, and panicles of small white flowers. It is quite
hardy, and easily propagated by seed or division.

298 ROCK GARDENS

JANKAEA HELDREICHI (GESNERIACEAE)

A plant very nearly allied to the Ramondias, but most difficult to
grow. It requires a northern aspect, in such a position that no
moisture can fall on its leaves, while at the same time it likes a
moderate amount at its roots. The best way to achieve this is to
plant in a miniature cavern, so arranged that no drip can fall on it,
though soaking the ground around. It requires sandy peat. It
forms flat rosettes of thick leaves, coated with white silvery down.
Lovely, pale violet-blue flowers, and shaped rather like a Soldanella.
One of the gems for the rock garden.

JASIONE (CAMPANULACEAE), Sheep’s Scabious

A genus of plants bearing flowers resembling a scabious. They
are not of much interest for the rock garden.

J. numilis.—Requires a dry, well-drained position in sandy loam.
Of spreading, tufted habit, growing about 6 inches high. Flowers
small and of a bright blue colour, borne in July and August. It is
not very hardy and needs protection from damp and cold during
the winter. Propagated by seed sown in the autumn.

J. Jankea.—Requires light sandy soil in sunny position. Forms
rosettes of a deep green colour, from which rise stems about 9 inches
high, bearing heads of deep blue flowers in July. Increased by
seed.

J. perennis.—Sunny position in light loam. Bears dense heads
of bright blue flowers in July. Of taller habit than either of the
preceding. Often over 12 inches in height. Increased by seed
sown in autumn.

JEFFERSONIA DIPHYLLA (BERBERIDACEAE)

A plant for a shady spot in the raised parts of the bog garden, in
sandy peat. Leaves large and two-lobed. Flowers white, with
yellow stamens, and about an inch across, freely produced in April.
Increased by division during the winter, or by seeds sown as soon
as ripe.

KaumiA (ERICACEAE), American Laurel

Evergreen shrubs, and among the most beautiful grown. They
are of the greatest value for the rock garden. They all requirea
peaty soil.

K. angustifolia.—Rather damp, peaty soil. It grows about 18
inches high, and of graceful habit. Clusters of rosy-pink flowers

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ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 299

towards the end of May. Quite hardy, and easily grown. There
are several varieties, bearing flowers of different shades of
pink.

K. glauca.—Moist, peaty soil. Of dwarf habit, growing I to 2
feet high, with smooth leaves, silvery below, and purplish-pink
flowers. A good rock garden shrub.

K. hirsuta.—Moist, peaty soil. Leaves rather hairy. Of dwarf
habit, growing 1 foot high, and not very hardy.

K. latifolia.—Moist, peaty soil. The largest-growing of the
family, reaching a height of 8 to 10 feet. Leaves are broad. Waxy
pink flowers in clusters. A very handsome shrub of slow growth,
having several varieties, the best being maxzma, which has larger
and deeper-coloured flowers. MJyrééfoliais a dwarf-growing variety
with flowers as large as the type. A lovely little shrub. They can
all be propagated by cuttings or layers.

LAPEYROUSIA (see ANOMATHECA)

LaTHRAEA CLANDESTINA (OROBANCHACEAE)

A very curious little parasitic plant, living on the roots of willow,
poplar, and beech trees, provided they are in boggy ground. Only
the flowers, which are ofa lilac-purple colour, appear over the ground,
the stems and small white leaves remaining underground.

LaTHRUS (LEGUMINOSAE), Pea

In large rock gardens some of the rarer species of the everlasting
pea will be useful, for in no way are they more effective than when
falling over the face of a large rock. Some of the following kinds
are suitable for this purpose :—

L. cyaneus (syn. Platystylis cyaneus).—Likes a light soil in a
sunny position. Grows about g inches high. Blue flowers in
April and May. Hardy, and of easy culture. This is an upright,
not trailing species.

L. latifolius.—Indifferent to soil or position. A vigorous-growing
and trailing species, with rosy-coloured flowers. There are also
white varieties which are good.

L. hirsutus (syn. Orobus hirsutus).—Quite hardy in any soil or
position. Of trailing habit. Bears a profusion of purple flowers
the whole summer. An attractive plant.

L. rotundifolius.—Of easiest culture in any soil or position. It
is of trailing habit. Flowers very numerous, and of a bright rose-
pink colour. Useful for draping a rock,

300 ROCK GARDENS

L. Sibthorpi (syn. L. undulatus).—Light soil in sunny position,
Trailing habit, but not so vigorous as some of the other kinds.
Purplish-red flowers, borne in spikes. It blooms in May.

L. magellanicus.—Ordinary soil. Trailing habit. Leaves and
stem covered with a bluish bloom. Lovely sky-blue flowers in
bunches, freely produced during the summer. A _ beautiful,
though not very hardy, almost evergreen plant. Grows readily
from seed.

L. variegatus.—Ordinary soil. A compact plant, growing about
1 foot high. Bears rather small flowers ; upper petal rose-coloured
and veined with purplish-crimson, and points of the wings blue.
A pretty plant, quite hardy, and easily grown. Propagated by seed
or division.

L. varius (syn. Orobus varius).—Ordinary soil. Of erect and
graceful growth, about 1 foot high. Flowers white and very pale
rose-coloured, borne in loose spikes. Blooms in early summer.
Quite hardy, and of easy culture.

L. vernus.—Ordinary soil. Erect growth, about 12 inches high.
Flowers purple and blue, very freely produced in April. A charm-
ing, spring-flowering plant, and of easiest culture and quite hardy.
Readily increased by division or seed.

Lepum (EricacgaE), Labrador Tea

Dwarf-growing shrubs for moist, peaty, and sandy soil, well
drained. Propagated by layers. When transplanting any of the
Ledums, care should be taken that the ball of earth around the roots
remains intact.

L. buxifolium (syn. Letophyllum buxifolium), Sand Myrtle.—
Moist, peaty soil in partial shade. Very dwarf-growing, with tiny,
box-like foliage, and numerous heads of small pink-and-white
flowers in the summer. A pretty little shrub for a choice spot.

L. latifolium.—Peaty loam. Grows 2 to 3 feet high. Of compact
habit, with small, dull-green leaves, brown beneath. Numerous
clusters of small white flowers in April and May. Quite hardy, and
a useful, if not striking, shrub.

L. Lyoni.—\s of very dwarf habit, with numerous clusters of rosy-
pink flowers. Likes a peaty soil. A pretty shrub.

LEONTICE ALTAICA (BERBERIDACEAE)

Ordinary soil in an open position. Grows 3 to 6 inches high.
Flowers yellow, in terminal racemes. Forms tuberous rhizomes,
and may be increased by offsets or seeds. Not very hardy, or of
any special merit.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 301

LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM (COMPOSITAE)

The well-known “ Edelweiss” needs no description. It should
be planted on an exposed position in the rock garden, in full sun,
and in very poor, gritty soil, with plenty of lime rubbish added. If
grown in rich soil, its flowers become greenish, and it is liable to
die from over-feeding. An old wall is a good spot for it. There
are several varieties: 2. maximum, a larger form, and ZL. Lzn-
dauicum, flowering in late summer.

LEUCANTHEMUM ALPINUM (see CHRYSANTHMEUM ALPINUM)
LEUCOJUM (see ACIS)

LEUCOTHOE (ERICACEAE)

Pretty evergreen shrubs, liking a peat or leaf-mould soil. Pro-
pagated by seeds or layers.

L. acuminata (syn. Andromeda acuminata)—Grows about 2
feethigh. Long, pointed leaves on arching stems, which in summer
are wreathed with small, bell-shaped, white flowers. A very choice
shrub, easy of culture, and quite hardy.

L. axillaris, L. Catesbaet, and L. racemosa, all known under the
generic name of Andromeda, are very similar to the above.

L. Davisiae.—Forms a neat evergreen bush, 2 to 3 feet high,
Small leaves on slender stems, on the ends of which dense clusters
of small white flowers are produced in May. A very choice and
attractive little shrub, and though not as hardy as some of the
other kinds, it should be cultivated.

LEwisia (PoRTULACACEAE)

Pretty plants, allied to the Mesembryanthemums.

L. cotyledon. — Full sun in light well-drained gritty soil or
moraine. Large delicate pink flowers. A beautiful species.

L. Howellit—Same soil and position as above. Rosettes of
crinkled leaves from which rise panicles of large pale salmon-
coloured flowers. A very beautiful and attractive species.

L. rediviva.—Wants a sunny, dry, and very well-drained spot
in gritty loam. Forms rosettes of rather long leaves on a woody
stalk, The flowers are large, about 3 inches across, rose-coloured
on the outer edge, shading to nearly white at the centre. They are
borne in the summer in such profusion as nearly to hide the plant.
A delicate plant, disliking much moisture in the winter, so it is
advisable to protect it with a sheet of glass during that time.

L. Tweedyt.— Lovely salmon-pink flowers. Is even more
beautiful andalso more delicate. The least excess of damp seems to

302 ROCK GARDENS

prove fatal, so, unless in an exceptionally favoured climate, it should
be kept as a house plant. Soil and treatment same as the last.

LiperTIA (IRIDACEAE)

A genus nearly allied to the Irises.

L. formosa.—Light peaty soil, well drained. It forms tufts of
grass-like leaves, and bears on spikes about 18 inches long, large,
pure white flowers. A beautiful plant, and the best of the genus.
It is easy to grow and hardy.

L.txtoides, white flowers with yellow stamens, and Z. Magellanica,
white flowers. These are both very similar to Z. formosa, only with
much smaller flowers, and require the same soil and treatment.

Litrum (LILIACEAE)

Some of the Lilies are amongst the choicest plants for the bog
garden, while the smaller ones can be grown in damp spots in the
rock garden. A selection should therefore be made from some
catalogue. Those for the bog garden like cool, moist, well-drained
slopes in very rich soil, in partial shade. The following are a
few of the best:—Z. auratum, Platyphyllum, Martagon and
varieties alba and dalmaticum, monadelphum, Krameri, longt-
fiorum and varieties, and giganteum. These fairly represent the
various types, and are mostly of easy culture, but all Lilies are some-
what uncertain.

LINARIA (SCROPHULARIACEAE), Toadflax

Of this genus only a few should be grown in the rock garden.
The following are a selection of the most suitable :—

L. alpina.—Any soil or position. A dwarf, spreading plant of
rather dense habit. Bluish-violet-coloured flowers with orange
throat, in the greatest profusion. It is, strictly speaking, only a
biennial, but it sows itself about so freely that it does not matter.
It should only be planted on a spot in which it can be allowed to
run wild, and not smother out choicer plants.

L. antirrhinifolia (syn. Cavanillesti).—Any aspect in light soil.
Is of neat spreading habit, only growing about 6 inches high, and
is not so rampant a grower as some of the other kinds. Bright
purple flowers throughout the summer. Most easily cultivated and
raised from seed. A good plant, though an annual.

L. compacta.—Tiny little, creeping species, with minute, mauve
flowers. Dainty little plant for clothing steps, etc.

L. pallida (syn. Cymbalaria maxima).—Attractive foliage, and
large flowers of a pale violet colour, with a white throat. A most

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 363

rampant grower, spreading under stones, etc., by means of under-
ground stems. It should only be planted in the wilder parts,
where itcan dono harm. A decidedly pretty flower.

LINNEA BOREALIS (CAPRIFOLIACEAE)

A trailing evergreen plant. It requires a shady position in moist,
sandy peat. It forms long, rather straggling stems, on which are
borne graceful, pale pink flowers in the summer. A pretty plant,
which looks well falling over the face of some rock.

L. canadensis.—\s a larger form of the above; more brilliant in
colour and stronger in growth. It is not particular as to aspect or
soil, but thrives everywhere. It is altogether a more desirable
plant.

Linum (LINAcEAE), Flax

A genus of lovely and graceful plants, which should be freely
massed in the rock garden.

L. alpinum.—Light sandy loam and peat, in any open position.
Of quite dwarf habit, growing only 3 to 6 inches high, with large,
dark blue flowers in summer. A very dainty and choice plant.

L. arboreum.—Requires a warm, sheltered position in light sandy
loam. Forms a small, shrubby bush. Large flowers of a clear
yellow colour. Not hardy, and needs some protection.

L. campanulatum.—Requires an open position in sandy loam.
Grows about 12 inches high. Flowers yellow, freely produced in
summer. A very desirable plant.

L. flavum.—Dry, sandy loam in sun. A shrubby evergreer
plant, growing about 18 inches high, with bright yellow flowers in
branched heads in the greatest profusion. Fairly hardy, and very
easily raised from seed. A most attractive and useful plant.

L. monogynum.—Likes a sunny position in sandy loam. Grows
about 18 inches high, of slender habit. Large, pure white flowers
in summer. Hardy, except in cold districts, where it is said to
need some protection. Grows freely from seed. A very beautiful
plant, which should be boldly massed.

L. narbonense.—Sunny aspect in good, light soil. A very
graceful plant, growing from 15 to 20 inches high, and during the
whole summer a profusion of light blue flowers, veined with violet-
blue. Quite hardy, and of easy culture. Makes a lovely and strik-
ing picture when planted in a bold mass. Increased by seed or
division.

L. perenne.—Ordinary soil, in a sunny aspect. Grows 12 to 18
inches high, in dense tufts, and bears a profusion of clear cobalt-blue
flowers during the summer. Also a beautiful plant, readily increased

304. ROCK GARDENS

by seed or division, and of easiest culture. Quite hardy. There is
also a white form which is good. LZ. Leoniz, L. sibiricum, and L.
provinciale are considered forms of perenne.

L. salsolotdes—Likes a sunny aspect in well-drained, sandy soil.
A dwarf, half-shrubby species, growing about 12 inches high, with
rather heath-like foliage. Large, pure white flowers, with a purple
centre, freely produced in June and July. Quite hardy, and of
easy culture, and readily raised from seeds. A very choice
plant.

L. viscosum.—Well-drained, sunny position in sandy loam. A
dwarf, half-shrubby plant, growing about 12 inches high, with rather
hairy stems. Large, pale purple-coloured flowers, veined with a
deeper shade, are borne during the summer. Of easy culture, and
can be readily propagated by division or seed. A handsome, showy
species for the rock garden.

LIPPIA NODIFLORA (VERBENACEAE)

A plant of the Verbena order, growing 6 to 12 inches high. It
bears, during the summer, heads of pretty white or pink flowers
It is useful for covering waste spaces, and will grow in any ordinary
soil. Half hardy.

LITHOSPERMUM (BORAGINACEAE), Gromwell

A genus of dwarf, half-shrubby plants of the greatest beauty and
value for the rock garden. Some of them, unfortunately, are not
quite hardy. Propagated by seed, cuttings, or division.

L. canescens.—Requires a dry, sunny position in sandy and gritty
loam, mixed with a very little lime rubbish. It forms a compact
little bushy plant about 12 inches high, with greyish, hoary foliage.
The flowers, which are of a good size, are orange-coloured, and borne
in clusters from April to June. A hardy, deciduous plant, and very
choice.

L. Gastoni.—Likes a sunny position between rocks, in sandy peat
and loam, mixed with grit. Grows about 9 inches high, and bears,
during the summer, lovely azure-blue flowers, with a white eye, in
terminal clusters. Fairly hardy, but rather difficult to cultivate.
When planting, care should be taken not to disturb or break any of
its roots ; if grown in a pot, do not break the ball of earth, but plant
intact. One of the choicest of the whole family. They are lucky
indeed with whom it will thrive.

L. graminifolium. — Likes a sunny position in sandy loam.
Forms rather a compact tuft, about 9 inches high, with rather
long and narrow foliage. The flowers, which are small, and of

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 305

a deep blue colour, are borne in drooping terminal clusters.
Hardy, and of comparatively easy culture. It requires top
dressing occasionally. A very choice species, flowering from June
to August.

L. hirtum.—A sunny, dry position in grittyloam. Rather similar
to LZ. canescens, but of dwarfer habit. Clusters of orange-yellow
flowers from May to September. It is difficult to keep in any but
a dryish climate.

L. petraeum (syn. Moltkea petraea).—Very sandy peat and loam
in a sunny position. It grows from 9 to 18 inches high, forming
compact little bushes, with clusters of lovely deep blue flowers, very
freely produced during the summer. Fairly easy to cultivate, and
one of the choicest of the family. Easily raised from seed or
cuttings.

L. prostratum.—A warm, sunny aspect in sandy peat and loam.
It has a great aversion to lime. A prostrate-growing, half-shrubby
plant; evergreen. Beautiful deep blue flowers nearly the whole
year. Quite hardy, but rather uncertain, in places growing most
freely, while in others it barely exists. It should be planted so that
its prostrate stems can fall down the face of a rock or bank. A
lovely and indispensable plant, of the greatest value for the rock
garden. It can be increased by cuttings. There is a new variety,
known as “ Heavenly blue,” which is lighter in colour and very
choice, but in no way superior to the type.

L. purpureo-coeruleum.—Likes a little lime in the soil. Grows in
sun or shade. Of rather rampant habit, sending out runners which
ought to be removed, as otherwise it will not bloom. The flowers
open red, soon change to a deep blue. Of very easy growth, but
should not be allowed in the choicer parts of the rock garden. It
is a native plant.

L. rosmarinifolium.—Likes a sunny position in a rather moist
soil of peat, loam, and grit. A compact-growing plant, rather
similar to graminifolium, but with longer and narrower leaves.
Deep blue flowers very early in the year; it is sometimes in full
bloom by the end of January. A very good plant, but not very
hardy, and needs protection during hard frost.

LoBetia (CAMPANULACEAE)

Some varieties of the Lobelia look very fine grown in masses ina
large bog garden. In any but fairly mild climates, they require a
little protection from hard frosts, and though requiring a great deal
of moisture during the spring and summer, in the winter months
they should be kept fairly dry.

L. cardinalis and L. fulgens, and the numerous hybrids raised

20

306 ROCK GARDENS

from these species, are the best kinds to grow. They give many
shades of colour, from the most dazzling vermilion to almost salmon-
pink.

LOISELEURIA DECUMBENS (see AZALEA PROCUMBENS)

LONICERA (CAPRIFOLIACEAE), Honeysuckle

The various species of Honeysuckle will be found useful for
clothing large rocks or banks, and when grown in this manner will
look far better than in their usual position, stiffly trained against
some wall.

Lupinus (LEGUMINOSAE), Lupine

A genus of shrubs of rapid growth and very floriferous. They
will grow in any soil.

L. arboreus.—Of very rapid growth in any good soil; it will reach
a height of 4 to 5 feet in a few years. It should be sheltered from
the wind. Flowers yellow and very fragrant, abundantly produced.
Easily raised from seed. “.Szow Queen” isa lovely white form.
There are also numerous hybrids.

L. decumbens.—Has pale lilac flowers borne in spikes, and silky
leaves.

LycHNIs (CARYOPHYLLACEAE), Rose Campion

A genus of showy plants, of which a few kinds are suitable for the
rock garden.

L. alpina.—Should be grown in rather moist, sandy loam. Grows
only a few inches high, and has rose-coloured flowers in compact
heads. Of quite easy culture, and readily propagated by seeds.

L. Lagascae (syn. Petrocoptis pyrenaica).—Likes a sunny position
in sandy loam, and looks best planted in a fissure. Of slightly
spreading habit, though neat and compact. Leaves rather glaucous.
Bears a profusion of bright rose-coloured flowers, with white centres,
and blooms in early summer. Not difficult to grow, and quite one
of the best of the genus. Propagated by seed.

L. pyrenaica.—Sunny position in light soil. Grows 3 to 4 inches
high. Flowers pale pink, borne in forked clusters during the
summer.

L. Viscaria.—Any light soil. Forms compact tufts, about 4 inches
high, of long narrow leaves. Heads of rosy-red flowers,on stems
about Io to 12 inches long. The variety of this, named sflendens,
is more worthy of culture, being of a brighter colour. There is also
a white anda double variety, both of which are good plants. All
are of the easiest culture, and readily propagated by seed or division.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 307

Lysimacuia Nummu.ariA, Creeping Jenny

A native plant of creeping habit and very rapid growth. It likes
a shady position in moist soil. Bright yellow flowers in the greatest
profusion all along its trailing stems. Too rampant a grower for
any but the wilder parts. There is a golden-leaved variety, aurea,
which is well worth cultivating, and is not nearly so encroaching.

L. henryi.—Trailing habit. Flowers old gold. A good recent
introduction from China.

The other varieties of Lysimachia are too coarse-growing.

MACROTOMIA ECHIOIDES (see ARNEBIA ECHIOIDES)

MAGNOLIA (MAGNOLIACEAE)

Of this genus there is only one kind which is suitable for growing
in the rock garden: this is 17. ste//ata. It likes a sheltered position
in good loam. It is a deciduous shrub, growing 3 to 4 feet high,
covered in March, before the leaves appear, with waxy white, star-
shaped flowers, about 4 inches across. It is quite hardy, but
requires to be well established before flowering.

MAIANTHEMUM BIFOLIUM (syn. CONVALLARIA BIFOLIA)

It is very like, and closely allied to, the Lily-of-the-valley. It
prefers rather a damp, shady spot. The flowers are small, and not
fragrant. It is of quite easy cultivation.

MAtvastrRuM (MALVACEAE), False Mallow

Prostrate, growing plants, with flowers very like the Mallows.
They all require a warm, well-drained position, in light sandy loam,
and are not very hardy.

M. Munroana (syn. Sphaeralcea Munroana).—F lowers reddish-
pink, tinged with brown, in June.

M. coccinitum.—Scarlet-coloured flowers. Six inches high.

M. lateritium.—Has flowers of a brick-red colour. Prostrate
habit. A handsome plant.

MARGYRICARPUS SETOSUS (ROSACEAE), Pearl Fruit

A pretty evergreen, creeping plant, which in winter is covered
with white berries, which look well against the dark green foliage.
It likes an open position in peat and loam.

308 ROCK GARDENS

Mazus PumiLio (SCROPHULARIACEAE)

A very dwarf-growing plant, spreading underground very rapidly.
Likes a warm, dry position in partial shade, and should be planted
in sandy loam. It quickly forms dense tufts, scarcely an inch high.
Flowers are a pale violet colour, with a white centre, which barely
rise above the leaves. Hardy, and easily increased by division.

M. rugosus.—Light soil in any position. Trailing habit, spreading
rapidly. Violet labiate flowers with orange spots.

MEconopsiIs (PAPAVERACEAE)

These glorious poppies, of comparatively recent introduction,
some of them at least, grow to a considerable height, but, being
truly mountain plants, should find a home in the rock garden.
Being little more than biennials, should be raised annually from
seed. The seedlings, which require great care in handling, should be
grown in pots during the first winter, and planted out the following
spring. They all require a partially shady position, in a moist,
very deep, rich, and gritty soil of peat, loam, and sand, with very
quick drainage.

M. aculeata.—Grows from 18 inches to 2 feet. The leaves are
cordate and covered with brownish hairs. Flowers, borne in a
pyramid shape, are of a beautiful violet-blue colour. A singularly
handsome and striking plant.

M. cambrica.—Our native Welsh Poppy, the only representative
we have of the family, is of the easiest culture in any dry spot, and
is of such vigorous habit, that it should not be allowed into the
choicer parts of the garden. It has handsome, fern-like foliage,
and bright yellow flowers. The double form is rather a better
plant, and not so rampant a grower. The gem of the species,
however, is 1. ¢c. aurantiaca, fi. fl., a double form, with beautiful
orange-yellow flowers.

M. integrifolia.—Grows 2 to 3 feet high. Woolly leaves and pale
primrose-coloured flowers. Lovely.

M. nepalensis.—Grows 3 to 5 feet high. Soft, yellow-green
leaves, and flowers of a lovely pale yellow colour.

M. punicea. — Grows 2 to 3 feet high. Bears drooping,
crimson flowers. Distinct.

M. simplicifolia—Only grows about 9 to 12 inches high, and bears
clear blue flowers.

M. Wallichit.—Grows 4 to 5 feet high. Divided leaves, covered
with silky hairs. Lovely blue flowers, with yellow stamens. A
glorious plant.

These poppies do not always come true to seed, varying con-
siderably in shade, which is all the more unfortunate, as seed is the
only means of propagating them.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 309

MEGASEA (see SAXIFRAGA)

MELITTIS MELISSOPHYLLUM (LaBIATAE), Bastard Balm

A plant of the Sa/vza order, growing about 18 inches high.
Leaves ovate and slightly hairy. Flowers rather pretty, of a creamy-
white colour, and spotted purplish-rose. A useful plant for growing
amongst the shrubs adjoining the rock garden. Increased by seed
or division.

MENTHA REQUIENI (LABIATAE), Mint

A pretty little creeping plant, with tiny, pale purple flowers.
Smells strongly of peppermint.

MENYANTHES TRIFOLIATA (GENTIANACEAE), Buckbean

An aquatic plant with pale pink flowers. A pretty plant, which
can also be grown on the edges of ponds or streams.

MENZIESIA (ERICACEAE)

Dwarf and compact-growing shrubs, for moist peat.

M. caerulea (syn. Phyllodoce taxifolia)—Grows only 4 to 6
inches high, with pinkish-lilac flowers. It blooms in autumn.

M. empetrifolia (syn. Bryanthus empetriformis).—A tiny shrub
of neat habit, thriving in moist, sandy peat. Heath-like foliage.
Flowers borne in clusters, bell-shaped, and of a rosy-purple colour.
A very choice and pretty little shrub.

M. ferruginea.—Has brown flowers, and only grows about
6 inches high.

M. f. globularia.—Grows 2 to 5 feet high, and has pink flowers
in May.

M. polifolia (see Erica polifolia),

MERENDERA BULBOCODIUM (LILIACEAE)

A pretty bulbous plant bearing erect flowers of pale rosy-purple,
blooming in the autumn. Increased by seed or division.

MERTENSIA (BORAGINACEAE)

Very beautiful plants of the Borage order, of graceful habit.
M. alpina (syn. M. lanceolata)—Requires a cool spot, in moist,
peaty soil. Grows from 6 to Io inches high, with bluish-green

310 ROCK GARDENS

leaves. On each stem is borne one to three terminal droop-
ing clusters of pale blue flowers, in spring. A rare and beautiful
plant.

M. dahurica (syn. Pulmonaria dahurica.)—It should be planted
in a mixture of peat and loam, and in a sheltered nook, to save its
leaves from being broken by the wind. It grows from 8 to 12
inches high. The bright azure-blue flowers are borne in panicles
on erect, branching stems. It blooms in June. Quite hardy, and
of easy culture. It is a choice plant for the rock garden, and
propagated by seed and division.

M. echtoides.—Requires peat and leaf-mould soil, in a cool spot.
Grows about 12 inches high. The flowers, which are produced in
spring and autumn, are of a lovely rich blue colour.

©. elongata.—Cool, peaty loam. Grows about g inches high.
Narrow, blue-grey leaves. Buds rosy-red, opening to pale blue. It
blooms in the spring. It is not difficult to grow, and can be raised
easily from seed. About the best of this lovely genus.

M. lanceolata (see M. alpina).

M. maritima.—Requires a light, very sandy soil of good depth.
It forms long trailing stems, and has bluish, glaucous leaves.
Flowers are of a lovely turquoise-blue colour. Quite easy to grow.
Slugs have a great love for this plant. It blooms in the summer.
It can be increased by seed or division.

M. oblongifolia.—Cool spot, in peat and leaf-soil. Grows only
3 to 4 inches high. Fleshy, dark green leaves, and clustered heads
of pale blue flowers.

M. primuloides.—Cool, light, peaty loam. Heads of lovely
flowers, changing from ruby to a deep blue colour as they open. It
grows from 6 to 9 inches high. It is of easy culture, and a very
choice and lovely plant.

M. p. var. Chitralensis has larger flowers and deeper colouring.

M. sibirica.—Light loam, in a cool spot. Grows 12 to 18 inches
high. Small, bell-shaped flowers, in loose, drooping terminal
clusters. They vary in colour from the rosy-pink of the half-opened
bud to the purple-blue of the fully expanded flower. It is in bloom
from May to June. Of easy culture, and may be increased by
division. There is also a white form.

M. virginica.—Likes rather a moist soil of rich, light loam. It
should be planted in some sheltered spot where the wind cannot
affect its lovely glaucous leaves. The trumpet-shaped flowers,
nearly an inch long, and of a lovely purple-blue colour, are disposed
in drooping terminal clusters from stems 12 to 18 inches high. It
is of easiest culture in any but stiff or dry soils, and can be
increased by division. A most lovely and attractive plant, bloom-
ing in April.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 314

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM (FICOIDEAE)

A genus of succulent plants, some of which are fairly hardy
in a very dry, sandy position in a favourable climate. They are
mostly of a trailing habit, and of very rapid growth. The flowers,
which only open in the sun, are extraordinarily brilliant and of every
colour and shade. Anybody enjoying a warm, dry climate should
certainly try a selection of them. They strike with the greatest
ease from cuttings inserted in pure sand.

MICROMERIA (LABIATAE)

A large genus, of which the following are the only suitable kinds.
Easily grown in ordinary soil in an open position, and are useful
for planting in chinks. Increased by cuttings.

M. croatica.—Grows 3 to 6 inches high. Flowers pale rose-
violet. Summer.

M. graeca.—A pubescent shrubby plant, growing 9 inches high,
with pink flowers, in June.

Other species are (7. Juliana, with pink flowers, and MZ. rufestris,
with white or purple flowers.

Mimu.us (SCROPHULARIACEAE), Monkey Flower

A numerous genus, of which a few of the named varieties may be
planted in the bog garden, and will give a good patch of colour
during the summer. J. Brilliant and M. Model are the two best
for this purpose.

M. radicans.—A tiny, creeping plant, with brownish, rather hairy
leaves lying close to the ground. Small white flowers, with a violet-
coloured blotch. It requires to be planted in a very damp spot.
Quite hardy, and of easiest culture in any moist, boggy position.
An interesting and charming little plant. Propagated by division.

M. primuloides.—Is also a minute, creeping species, for a wet spot,
and has pretty yellow flowers, Easily propagated by division.

MITCHELLA REPENS (RuBIACEAE), Partridge Berry

A charming little evergreen, trailing plant, for a damp spot in
shade, and planted in light peaty loam and sand. It has roundish,
shiny leaves, and white flowers tinged with purple, followed by red
berries in the autumn.

MITELLA (SAXIFRAGACEAE)

Hardy perennials of no special merit.
M. diphylia.—Likes a partially shaded position in light peaty

B12 ROCK GARDENS

soil. Serrated leaves in tufts, growing about 6 inches high.
Slender racemes of white-fringed flowers from April to June.

M. pentandra.—For a shady spot in peaty soil. Forms a good
tuft of palmate leaves, and spikes of yellowish flowers on slender
stems. Sows itself about freely.

MODIOLA GERANIOIDES (MALVACEAE), syn. MALVASTRIUM
GILLIES

A trailing plant, growing 4 to 6 inches high, with rosy-purple
flowers, with a dark line in the centre, borne singly on slender
stalks. Quite hardy, and of easy culture in light, well-drained soil.
Increased by division.

MOoEHRINGIA Muscosa (CARYOPHYLLACEAE)

A dwarf evergreen plant for a damp spot in fine sandy loam.
It grows 2 to 3 inches high, with prostrate stems clothed with very
narrow leaves. Small white, solitary flowers, produced in May and
June. Increased by seed or division.

MOLTKIA PETRAEA (see LITHOSPERMUM PETRAEA)

MONESES GRANDIFLORA (syn. PyROLA UNIFLORA)

Hardy perennial plant for a half-shady position in moist, spongy
peat and sandy loam. Forms flat rosettes of leaves about 6 inches
high. Solitary pink or white flowers about # of an inch across. A
very difficult plant to cultivate.

MorIsIA HYPOGAEA (CRUCIFERAE)

One of the most charming little rock plants. It likes a very well-
drained, sandy soil in an open position. I find it does best in a
fairly cool spot not baked by the sun. It forms flat little tufts of
glossy leaves, and the flowers, which bloom in April, are of a bright
clear yellow and about 1 inch across, borne singly on very short
stalks. Quite hardy, and a little gem for association with the
choicest rock plants. Increased by seed and careful division.

MUEHLENBECKIA NANA (POLYGONACEAE)

A dwarf evergreen shrub of trailing habit, forming a carpet only
a few inches high. Sunny position in well-drained, sandy soil. The
leaves are small and of a dark green colour, and borne on slender,
wiry stems. Other varieties, suitable only for clothing very large

ALPHABETICAL, LIST OF PLANTS 313

rocks or for growing amongst shrubs, are JZ. complexa and adpressa,
both of which bear rather inconspicuous white flowers.

Muscari (LiLIacEaE), Grape Hyacinth

Little bulbous plants commonly known by name of Grape Hyacinth.
Only one or two species are really distinct. They are early flower-
ing, and valuable on that account. They like a sunny spot, and
increase fairly rapidly.

M. conicum.— Heavenly blue” is the best coloured, having deep
blue flowers very freely produced.

M. moschatum.—Rather ugly flowers of a greenish-yellow colour,
but most deliciously fragrant, and well worth growing on that
account alone.

M. szovitsianum.—Has large and pretty spikes of a pale blue
colour.

Myosotis (BORAGINACEAE)

The “Forget-me-nots” give us some lovely and valuable plants
for a moist or shady spot. So long as the ground is damp they do
not require shade, in fact they bloom better in the open.

M. alpestris (syn. M. rupicola).—Likes a half-shady position
between pieces of sandstone, in a light, well-drained, though rather
moist soil ; is apt to perish in the winter in excessive moisture. It
forms close tufts of dark green, rather hairy leaves, and grows only
about 2 inches high. The flowers are of a beautiful blue colour,
with a yellow eye, which are borne in the greatest profusion during
the early summer. Though hardy, it is not easy to keep in health.
Easily raised, and comes true from seed. There are considerable
differences of opinion as to whether 7wficola is merely a variety
of alfestris, or a distinct species. I have taken them as being
synonymous, as from a gardeners point of view they are so
similar in appearance, and, requiring the same treatment, there
is no advantage in separating them. There are several named
varieties of MM. alfestris, the raisers of which claim them to be
superior to the type.

M. azorica.—Likes a sheltered, half-shady position in deep, moist,
sandy loam. It forms spreading tufts. It has rich purple-blue
flowers, borne on arching stems about 6 to 9 inches long. It is not
very hardy, but can be easily raised from seed, which should be sown
in the autumn, and seedlings kept in frames during the winter and
planted out in May. A very choice and lovely plant.

M. dissttiflora—Likes moist loam in sun and partial shade. It
is very similar to JZ. sylvatica in appearance, but blooms earlier in

314 ROCK GARDENS

the year, its flowers appearing in January or February. Easily in-
creased by division, and of easy culture. A good plant on account
of its early flowering proclivities.

M. palustris —Grows freely in any wet spot, but so freely does
it grow, that it should only be planted where it can have plenty of
room to spread without damaging other and choicer plants.
“The Czar” is a good free-flowering variety of this.

M. sylvatica.—Is of easy culture in almost any soil or position,
so long as it does not suffer from drought. It should be treated as
a biennial and a stock raised annually from seed. A very pretty
plant for massing in waste spots.

M. Reichsteineri—A tiny creeping species, which will grow in
any fairly damp soil. It makes a little matted carpet of smooth,
bright green leaves, and in early summer spikes of small turquoise-
blue flowers are borne on stems, rising barely 2 inches from the
ground. Increased by division. A little top-dressing of sandy leaf-
soil should occasionally be applied. A most delightful and choice
little plant, and one of the best for making a carpet for bulbous
plants. It is a variety of WZ. caesfitosa, which is almost identical
with MW. palustris.

Narcissus (AMARYLLIDEAE)

Well-known, spring-flowering bulbous plants, of which there are
so many new and lovely varieties that it is impossible to keep pace
with all the later hybrids, unless one were a specialist in that branch,
Many, however, of the commoner kinds should be planted in and
about the rock garden, to give colour to it in early spring. In no
position do they look better than in grass or coming through a
carpet of some creeping rock plant.

NARTHECIUM OSSIFRAGUM (LILIACEAE), Bog Asphodel

A native plant for the bog or marsh garden. Somewhat like an
Iris in growth, with spikes of yellow flowers. Pretty plant of easy
culture in any wet spot.

NeEPETA Mussini (LaBiaTAE), Catmint

A very old garden plant. It forms a dense, prostrate tuft about
Io inches high, with greyish, fragrant leaves, and a great profusion
of lavender-blue flowers during the summer. It is a rapid grower
in any light soil in full sun. A most valuable and attractive plant
both on account of its foliage and flowers, and should be freely
used. It can readily be struck from cuttings.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 315

NERTERA DEPRESSA (RUBIACEAE)

A very diminutive, creeping plant for a moist spot. It forms a
close, compact mat of bright green leaves about 2 inches high.
The flowers are inconspicuous, but the bright orange-red berries
which appear in autumn are most attractive. It is not very hardy,
and should be protected from snow. Increased by division.

NIEREMBERGIA (SOLANACEAE)

An attractive genus of perennial plants.

NV. Frutescens.—A most dainty and attractive plant, like a Linum
both in foliage and flower. It likes a rather dry and sheltered
position in sandy loam. It forms a half-shrubby plant, about 12
to 18 inches high. The flax-like flowers are blue, shading to white
at the edges, and are most lovely. This most attractive plant is
unfortunately not very hardy, except in a mildclimate. Propagated
by seed and cuttings.

NV. gracilis.—Light sandy soil in sun. Grows 6 to 12 inches
high. Flowers white, streaked with purple, centre yellow. Blooms
in the summer, and very freely. Attractive, but not very hardy.

NV. Rivularis.—Sunny position in light gritty soil. Dwarf and
creeping plant, spreading rapidly by means of underground stems.
The ovate leaves rise about 3 inches. The cup-shaped flowers are
creamy-white, and rise just above the foliage. A shy bloomer, though
of free growth and quite hardy. Easily increased by division.

CENOTHERA (ONAGRACEAE), Evening Primrose

Of this large genus the only species suitable for the rock garden
are:

@. Arendsti.—Light gritty loam on a sunny bank. Of trailing
habit. Lovely delicate shell-pink flowers, July to October. Free-
growing and very beautiful. It is a hybrid (sfecéosa x rosea),

CG. caespitosa(syn. G. eximia and marginata).—Requires a light
loamy soil, Not particular as to aspect. It is of trailing habit, and
grows about g inches high. Large white flowers, changing to pale
rose colour, and sweet-scented. A handsome plant, of easy culture,
and increased by cuttings or division. It is night-flowering.

CE. eximia (see CE. caesfitosa).

G@. fruticosa Youngit.—Ordinary, well-drained soil. Grows
about 18 inches high, and bears a profusion of bright yellow flowers
during the summer. A very good species, also night-flowering.

@. Fraseri.—Well-drained, light soil. Grows about 12 inches
high. Bright yellow flowers in great profusion, from July to
October. Of easy culture. This plant is a variety of @. glauca,

C@. marginata (see CE. caespitosa).

316 ROCK GARDENS

G. missouriensis latifolia (syn. EZ. Macrocarpa).—Likes a light,
well-drained soil. It grows about 8 inches high, and is of trailing
habit. Clear yellow flowers, 4 to 5 inches across, borne in such
profusion as to hide the plant. It blooms from June to September.
It is night-flowering, and one of the best of the genus. Increased
by cuttings made in April, or by careful division.

@. rosea.—Grows 12 inches high. Flowers pink, in July. Not
very hardy.

C. spectosa.—Requires well-drained loam. Forms a neat, almost
shrubby plant, 12 to 18 inches high, with quantities of large white
flowers, which come out during the day. A lovely plant, and of
fairly easy culture, but it does not stand a wet winter well. In-
creased by division or cuttings.

C. tavaxactfolia (syn. @. acaulis).—Does best in a deep, cool,
rather rich soil. Grows about 6 to 9 inches high, and is of trailing
habit and free growth. Leaves rather greyish and deeply cut.
Flowers large white, changing to pale rose as they become older.
It is fairly hardy, but is liable to perish in a wet winter or cold soils.
Easily raised from seed. Quite one of the best of the genus, anda
most desirable plant ; also has the advantage of blooming in the
daytime, though at its best at night.

OMPHALODES (BORAGINACEAE)

A genus of hardy and attractive plants.

O. Lucilig.—A rare and rather capricious plant, requiring
thoroughly drained and very gritty soil ; in fact the compost should
be made up of about equal parts of loam, grit, and small stone
chips: a little powdered slate is said to be a help. It likes an open,
sunny position, and grows 6 to 9g inches high. The leaves are
glaucous, grey, and very pretty. Flowers are pale sky-blue, and
borne in racemes. It blooms in the summer. A plant, lovely as
it is rare.

O. nitida.—Light soil in open position. Leaves glabrous above
and downy beneath. Flowers white, borne in long racemes. Fairly
rapid grower, spreading by means of strawberry-like runners. A
very pretty plant.

O. verna.—Likes a damp soil in half shade. Grows about 4
inches high, and is of spreading and vigorous habit. Flowers deep
blue, with a white throat, blooming in early spring. A charming
old plant for a shady nook. Is easily increased by division.

Ononis (LEGUMINOSAE)
The “Rest Harrows” are useful and pretty plants for dry, poor
soils, though not of very great interest. They all can be increased
by seed or cuttings.

=

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 317

O. arvensis —A dwarf-growing plant, forming dense, spreading
tufts about 6 inches high. Masses of pink flowers in June. Quite
a useful plant, and of the easiest culture.

O. fruticosa.—\s a dwarf, shrubby species, growing about 12
inches high. Flowers purple, and borne in racemes during the
summer.

O. Natrix.—Also a somewhat shrubby plant, growing about 18
inches high, with yellow flowers veined with red.

O. rotundifolia.—A half-shrubby plant, growing 12 to 18 inches
high. Flowers rose-coloured, upper standard veined crimson. A
useful and handsome plant for the rougher parts of the rock garden.

OnosMaA (BorAGINACEAE), Golden Drop

A genus of plants, some of much beauty. They all require deep,
well-drained, sandy soil in full sun, in such a position that no wet
can lie about and rot them. They do well planted between rocks,
round which they can get their roots and keep them cool and moist.
As some kinds are of but little beauty or value, the following is a
selection of the best :—

O. albo-roseum.—F orms a compact tuft about 6 inches high, with
hairy, rather silvery leaves. Flowers white, changing to pale rose,
borne in racemes during June and July. There is also a form
called a/éa, in which the flowers remain white. Both are very
pretty, and can be propagated by cuttings in the summer.

O. Bourgaet.—Grows about 6 inches high, forming compact tufts
of silvery-white leaves, and bearing deep yellow flowers in June and
July.

O. tauricum (syn. O. echiotdes).—Forms compact tufts of rather
hairy leaves, about 6 to 8 inches high, with clear yellow, fragrant
flowers, borne in drooping clusters on stems about 14 inches high.
Can be increased by cuttings. A handsome plant for a dry ledge.

O. Thompsoni.—Forms a tuft of rather hairy leaves. Flowers
red, borne in a dense head on an upright stem about 14 inches
high.

Opurys (ORCHIDEAE)

Small terrestrial orchids, mostly too delicate and difficult to grow
to be of much value for the rock garden. There are, however, a
few native species which may be tried.

O. apifera (Bee Orchis).—Requires a dry, warm soil of loam and
broken limestone, and should have the surface of the ground, in
which it grows, covered with cocoa fibre and sand about 1 inch
thick to keep it moist. The leaves are glaucous and lie close to the
ground. Flowers, borne on stems about 12 inches high, are velvety
brown, with yellow markings.

318 ROCK GARDENS

Other varieties worth growing and requiring similar treatment
are: O. muscifera (Fly Orchis), O. avanifera (Spider Orchis),
O. Arachnites, O. bombilifera (Humble Bee Orchis), and O. Troll.

Opuntia (CACTACEAE)

Plants of the Cacti order, some of which are hardy in the warmer
districts, and many are very beautiful when in flower. They all
require a very hot, dry situation in light soil, with plenty of lime
' rubbish mixed with it. They should be kept dry during the winter.
As these can scarcely be considered typically rock plants, but are
more generally associated with tropical vegetation, it would be
better to group, in a spot reserved for them, when the needed pro-
tection during the winter could be more easily given. Most
nurserymen keep them, and a selection can be obtained.

OrcHIS (ORCHIDEAE)

Many of the terrestrial Orchids are very beautiful for the bog and
rock garden. Orchids, even our own native species, are generally
considered difficult to cultivate. This, however, is due not so much
to the nature of the plant, as to the time of planting. They should
never be moved when in flower or making growth, which so fre-
quently is just the time when they are transplanted, with the result
that they die, and thereby get a bad reputation. August and
September are the best months for planting them. The following
selection will give some of the hardiest and best species :—

O. foliosa.—Rich, rather damp, heavy loam in a sheltered nook.
Dense spikes of rosy-purple spotted flowers, rising about 18 inches
from the ground. A very handsome species, flowering in May.

O. latifolia (Marsh Orchis).—Damp, rather rich, boggy soil, in
partial shade. Purple or red flowers in long, dense spikes, coming
into bloom about June. There are several good varieties of this—

O. l. incarnata.—F lesh-coloured.

O. 1. sesguipedalis.—Violet-purple colour, in very long spikes.

O. laxiflora.—Moist loam and peat in partial shade. Loose
spikes of rich purplish-red flowers in May. Handsome.

O. maculata.—The well-known “Spotted Orchis” will be found
an excellent plant for the bog garden. The variety swferdba is very
fine.

O. papilionacea (Butterfly Orchis).—Heavy loam and limestone.
Flowers reddish-purple.

Other varieties that can be grown are—

O. militaris and O. purpurea, in limestone and heavy loam.

O. mascula, O. pyramidalis, O. sambucina, and O. sfectadbilis,

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 319

in rich, rather heavy, moist loam and peat, with sand added, in
a partially shady position.
All Orchids require a considerable depth of soil.

ORIGANUM (LABIATAE)

A genus of shrubby plants of not much value. The following are
a selection of the best :—

O. dictamnus.—A sub-shrubby plant for a dry, sunny position in
light loam. Grows about 12 inches high, It has mottled, downy
foliage, and its heads of small pink flowers are borne from June to
August in great profusion. Itis rather a tender plant, and will need
some protection in a severe winter.

O. pulchrum.—Sunny position in sandy loam. Sub-shrubby
plant, with silvery leaves, and rosy-purple flowers in August. A
good rock plant.

O. Sipylewm.—A shrubby plant of procumbent habit. Flowers
pink,

OTHONNA (COMPOSITAE)

A large genus of glabrous plants only half hardy. The following
are the only species suitable :—

O. chetrifolia (syn. Othonnopsis chetrifolia).—Dry, sunny position.
A vigorous, trailing plant, growing 12 inches high, with greyish,
glaucous leaves. The flowers are bright golden-yellow, and are
produced during early summer. A useful evergreen plant, which
can be easily propagated from cuttings.

O. crassifolia.—Light sandy loam in full sun. A creeping plant
of rapid growth, with curious, succulent leaves, like a Sedum, of a
bright green colour. Numerous yellow, daisy-like flowers are borne
during the summer. A pretty and useful plant. Not hardy, but
can so easily be propagated by cuttings that it is quite worth
while wintering a few plants in a cold-house.

OURISIA COCCINEA (SCOPHULARIACEAE).

A lovely plant, but of rather uncertain habit in cultivation. The
two conditions it requires are half shade and moisture ; given these,
it in all probability will thrive. Rather heavy loam seems to suit it
best. That, at least, is my experience, but others recommend deep,
gritty peat. It is of creeping habit, forming tufts of crinkled leaves
about 4 inches high, from which rise stems about 8 inches high, on
which bright crimson flowers are borne in racemes during the
summer. It is quite hardy, and may be increased by division.

O. macrophylla.— Quite a new introduction from New Zealand,
and not yet in general cultivation. It forms tufts of handsome leaves

320 ROCK GARDENS

and white flowers in whorls, and rising about 12 inches over the
foliage. If it proves hardy, as it appears to be, it should be an
acquisition for the rock garden.

OxaLis (GERANIACEAE)

A large genus of dwarf-growing plants, few are hardy except our
own native species. The following are of proved hardiness :—

O. Acetosella.—The native Wood Sorrel, which, however, grows
so freely in woods that it is scarcely worth devoting a place to it in
the rock garden.

O. Adenophylia.—Requires cool, sandy loam in partial shade.
The foliage and habit resemble O. enneaphylla, but the flowers are
a lovely, very pale pink, with a blue line down the centre of each
petal. A most lovely plant, but as yet very rare in cultivation ; it
is, if possible, prettier than its prototype, O. enneaphylia.

O. enneaphylla.—Likes a cool, moist, light sandy loam free from
lime. It grows more freely in shade, but flowers better if exposed
to a certain amount of sunshine. It forms a compact tuft of very
pretty, glaucous, grey, crinkled leaves. It has a curious scaly
bulbous root. The flowers, which are rather like a Convolvulus, are
pearly-white, with a purple stain at the base of each petal, and
nestle amongst the leaves. It blooms in June and July, and is quite
hardy, and not difficult to grow. There are few more fascinating or
dainty plants for the rock garden. There is a very lovely variety,
rosea, which was collected by Mr C. Elliot in the Falkland Isles.

O. flortbunda.—Any soil in partial shade. Forms a compact tuft
of pretty leaves growing about 6 inches high, and produces during
the whole summer a succession of pretty rose-coloured flowers. It
is of the easiest culture, and of rapid growth. There is also a
pretty white form equally free-flowering.

OxytTropis (LEGUMINOSAE)

A genus of dwarf-growing plants of the Vetch order. They all
require a sunny, warm position in well-drained, light sandy loam.

O. baicalensis.—About 4 inches high, flowers blue in July.

O. campestris ——Grows about 6 inches high. Has rather downy
foliage. It has erect spikes of yellowish flowers in the summer.
Increased by seed or division. Nota very striking plant.

O. pyrenaica._-A dwarf, very prostrate species. The leaves are
clothed with a silky down, and only rise a few inches from the
ground. Purplish-lilac flowers, borne in rather dense heads. It is
of fairly easy culture, and can be increased by seed or division.
Blooms in July.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 321

O. montana.—Dwarf-growing, with silky foliage and blue flowers
in the summer. Seed and division.

O. Lambertit.—Silky foliage, and rosy-carmine flowers, in August.
A rare and beautiful species.

O. Yunnanensis.—Of dwarf tufted habit, with pale blue flowers,
rather like a trefoil.

PACHYSANDRA PROCUMBENS (EUPHORBIACEAE)

Dwarf-growing evergreen plant for a shady spot, with small
spikes of white flowers in March.

P. terminalis.—A hardy evergreen plant, with dark green,
leathery leaves and inconspicuous flowers. There is also a
variegated variety. Both like half shade.

PAPAVER (PAPAVERACEAE), Poppy

Only two species of the Poppy family are suitable for the rock
garden. Both are of the easiest culture.

P. alpina (syn. P. pyrenaicum).—Sunny position in light loam.
Very dwarf-growing, forming compact tufts of pretty, finely cut,
bluish-grey leaves. The flowers, which rise about 6 to 8 inches
over the foliage, are of various colours, there being white, yellow,
and scarlet in cultivation. It is difficult to transplant, so it is
advisable to raise from seed on the spot assigned to it. A very
dainty and attractive plant. The variety, /laviflorum, has orange-
coloured flowers, and is rather hairy.

P. nudicaule.—The Iceland Poppy is almost too wild a grower
for the rock garden, but is so showy and pretty that a place should
be found for it in the rougher parts. The original type had yellow
flowers, but every shade of orange, yellow, and red are in cultiva-
tion, besides a white form. It is practically only a biennial.

PARADISEA LILIASTRUM (LILIACEAE)

The lovely “St Bruno’s Lily” should find a place in the rock
garden in some shady nook, or planted amongst the shrubs
adjoining. It is of the easiest culture, in any ordinary soil in
partial shade. Its pure white flowers, about 2 inches long, are
borne two to five on each stem, which rises about 18 inches from
the ground. There isa larger form, major, with longer stems and
bigger flowers.

PARNASSIA (SAXIFRAGACEAE)

Plants for a wet spot in the bog garden.

P. caroliniana.—Requires a wet, marshy spot. The stem grows
from 18 inches to 2 feet high, and has large white flowers, 1 to 14
inches across, and large leathery leaves.

21

222 ROCK GARDENS

P. fimbriata.—Grows freely in any rich, damp soil. Flowers
white, and of a good size, with a fringe of white hairs at the base of
each petal. Flower-stems rise about 12 to 18 inches from the
ground. A handsome plant, of easy culture.

P. palustris—The native “Grass of Parnassus,’ which grows
freely in damp soil. The white flowers, veined greenish, are borne
on stems about 6 to 9 inches high. Easily raised from seed, which
should be sown, as soon as gathered, in moist spots assigned to the
plants.

PAROCHETUS COMMUNIS (LEGUMINOSAE), Shamrock Pea

A lovely creeping plant for a damp, sheltered spot. Its clover-
like leaves rise only some 3 inches from the ground. The flowers,
which are pea-shaped, are of a most beautiful azure-blue, and
freely borne during the summer. It is rather inclined to go off
in extra cold or damp winters. It is a most vigorous grower,
quickly covering large spaces, so should not be planted near
anything choice. It is a very lovely plant, and should certainly be
grown when space will admit.

PARONYCHIA SERPHYLLIFOLIA (ILLECEBRACEAE)

Small, creeping plant of dense, tufty growth, of little value except
to clothe some bare, dry bank.

PaRRYA MENZIESII (CRUCIFERAE)

A plant nearly allied to the Aubrietias, growing only about 6 inches
high, with spikes of soft, rose-coloured flowers.

PASCHKENIA SCHILLOIDES

A bulbous plant for an open situation in light sandy soil. Grows
4 to 8 inches high. Flowers white, striped and tinged with blue,
and borne in racemes, on stems about 6 to 8 inches high. Hardy.
Increased by division. A very charming little spring-flowering
plant.

PELARGONIUM ENDLICHERIANUM (GERANIACEAE)

Requires a sheltered, sunny nook in gritty loam. It grows about
6 inches high, with deep, rose-coloured flowers, borne on stems
about 18 inches high. Hardy in most places. An interesting and
handsome plant.

PENSTEMON (SCROPHULARIACEAE)

A genus of beautiful plants, many of which, however, are too large
and coarse-growing for the rock garden. The following will be

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 323

found suitable and hardy. They all require a warm spot in light,
free loam, and can easily be propagated by seed or cuttings.

P. azureus.—Is of branching habit, bearing numerous violet-blue
flowers in whorls during the summer. This plant is quite hardy.
P. Jeffreyanus is a variety of this, with larger flowers.

P. caeruleus.—Grows about 9g inches high. Has glaucous, grey
foliage, and lovely, pale turquoise-blue flowers. It is not very
hardy. It comes freely from seed, but, unfortunately, frequently
not true, the same batch of seedlings giving many shades of colour,
and only a very small percentage of which will be the desired tint.

P. Davidsoni.—Gritty, well-drained soil in a warm position or
moraine. Forms a tiny shrub of rather prostrate habit. Small
glaucous, leathery leaves. Flowers large and brilliant ruby-red.
A really lovely plant.

P. glaber.—Rather dwarf, prostrate habit, with dense heads of
a fine shade of blue, tinged with rose. Very variable from seed.

P. glaucus.—Forms a compact plant about g inches high, with
bluish-grey foliage and dense heads of large, purplish-blue flowers
in July. Rather a distinct plant.

P. heterophytlus.—Grows from 12 to 18 inches, forming a graceful,
sub-shrubby plant. Flowers pale, violet-blue, with throat of azure-
blue. A lovely plant, and hardy, except in a severe winter. It, like
many others of the genus, varies considerably from seed.

P. humilis.—Requires a sunny spot in gritty loam and leaf-mould.
Forms a compact tuft 8 inches high. Large flowers of a reddish-
purple colour in May and June. It should be watered freely.

P. procerus.—\s of creeping habit, forming neat tufts, from which
rise 6- to 12-inch stems, bearing dense spikes of amethyst-blue
flowers. One of the best of the family and the earliest to bloom.
Can be raised easily from seed.

P. Scoulert.—A plant of half-shrubby habit, growing about 12
inches high. Flowers a pretty shade of pale purplish-blue, borne
in terminal racemes. A good plant, of easy culture. Propagation
by seed or cuttings in spring and struck in a little bottom heat.

PERNETTYA MUCRONATA (ERICACEAE)
Dwarf-growing, evergreen shrub, growing freely in peaty loam,
or even in heavy soil with leaf-mould added. Flowers small and
pinky-white, followed in the autumn by small purple-black berries.
A very useful shrub for the higher slopes of the rock garden. Quite
hardy, and will grow readily under trees. Increased by division.

PETROCALLIS PYRENAICA (syn. DRABA PYRENAICA)

A very dwarf-growing little plant for a warm spot in fine, sandy,
fibrous loam soil. Pieces of limestone should be buried in the soil

324 ROCK GARDENS

for it to get its roots about. It forms dense green tufts, about 3
inches high, from which rise its fragrant, pale lilac-coloured flowers,
scarcely half an inch over the foliage. A very dainty little plant
for a choice spot, needing careful culture, though quite hardy. A
yearly top dressing of lime rubbish is beneficial.

PHILESIA BUXIFOLIA (LILIACEAE)

A lovely dwarf, evergreen shrub. It requires a half-sunny aspect,
sheltered from the north, in rather damp, fibrous, sandy peat. The
lovely flowers, which are like a Lapageria, are of a carmine-red
colour. Not hardy except in the southern counties, and is not easy
to cultivate. It may take a year or more before becoming estab-
lished, or, at least, making any growth. Shoots should be pegged
down to encourage them to layer. A most exquisite gem, and worth
endless trouble to obtain success.

PHLOx (POLEMONIACEAE)

The taller-growing species of this very large genus are suitable
for the border only. But there are many dwarf and creeping kinds
which are amongst the most valuable and easiest cultivated plants
we have for the rock garden. Any ordinary light soil will suit them,
and they are not particular as to aspect, but bloom and grow better
in sun. They can be easily increased by cuttings taken in July;
and inserted in sandy soil and placed in a frame shaded from full
sun, they root quickly, and should be flowering plants by the follow-
ing year. Another way is by layers, pegging down some of the
prostrate stems in sandy soil: they will soon make roots at that
point.

P. amoena.—Of spreading habit, with rosy-coloured flowers in early
summer. Very hardy, and of easiest culture.

P. Carolina (syn. P. ovata).—Of procumbent habit, with clusters of
large rosy flowers, on stems about 12 inches high.

P. divaricata.—Grows about 12 inches high, with flat heads of large,
pale lavender-coloured flowers. Very pretty, but not of the prostrate
habit of the creeping Phloxes. There are several varieties of this
plant, all excellent. They are—

P. a. alba.—White.

P. ad. canadensis.—Rather a darker shade of colour from the type,
and of looser growth.

P. da. Laphami (Perry’s var.).—Finer form of P. @. canadensis.

P. da. Douglasit.—Pale lavender-coloured flowers, with an orange
eye.

P. pilosa.—Grows about 12 to 14 inches high, and has flat heads
of large purple flowers. The true plant is very rare.

——— oe

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 325

P. procumbens.—Of creeping habit, and brownish foliage.
Panicles of purple flowers in June from its prostrate growth.

P. reptans.—Creeping habit and rapid growth, covering the
ground and rocks with its soft green foliage, about an inch high.
The purplish-rose-coloured flowers are borne in clusters on stems
4 to 6 inches high. Easily increased by division.

P. Stellaria.—Forms a fairly compact tuft of narrow leaves, with
spikes of bluish-white, star-like flowers. Quite distinct.

P. subulata.—Of dwarf, prostrate habit, forming a compact ever-
green mass, about 6 inches high. The leaves are awl-shaped and
very numerous. The flowers are rose-coloured, with a dark eye, so
freely produced as to hide the plant. It is of rapid growth, and very
hardy ; the only thing it dislikes is excessive drought. This is the
type of the indispensable creeping, mossy Phlox, of which endless
varieties are in cultivation, and are amongst the most valuable
plants there are for the rock garden, and should be freely grown
either to cover a bank or to clothe the face of a rock. They are all
lovely, and of the easiest culture. A selection should be made from
some catalogue. Mr T. Smith of Newry has a remarkably fine
collection, and many of the most beautiful hybrids are of his
raising.

PuysariA DrpyMocarRPA (CRUCIFERAE)

Hot, dry position in very sandy loam. Curious large, succulent,
glaucous leaves, growing about 6 inches high, and yellow flowers.
A recent introduction,

PHYTEUMA (CAMPANULACEAE)

Pretty plants for the rock garden, of the Bell-flower order.

P. comosum.—Requires a warm, sunny chink in well-drained, very
calcareous, sandy soil. It should have plenty of root room, and
should be so placed that water cannot lie about and rot its crown.
The leaves are dark green, and only grow about 2 inches high.
The flowers are deep purple and of a curious shape, and are borne
in flattish heads on very short stems. It is quite hardy, though
having the reputation of being difficult to grow ; but with plenty of
lime rubbish and good drainage there should be no trouble. Slugs
are particularly fond of this plant, and if not guarded against will soon
destroy it. One of the gems for a choice spot in the rock garden.

P. paucifiorum.—Light sandy, calcareous soil in sun. Forms a
compact little tuft of narrow leaves, and has heads of deep blue
flowers. Difficult to cultivate, but very attractive.

P. hemisphaericum and P. orbiculare are very similar to the last-
named, but not quite so choice, though both are good rock plants
for a limestone soil.

326 ROCK GARDENS

P. Siebert.—Requires a sunny aspect in moist, peaty, and loamy
soil, with sand added. Forms a compact tuft, with dark blue flower
heads on stems about 5 inches high. Blooms in May and June, and
can be increased by division.

P. humilis.—Dry, sheltered position in sandy loam. Dark blue
flowers on stems 6 inches high, in June. It should be kept dry
during the winter, but requires plenty of moisture during the
summer. It blooms in June.

P. Scheuchzeri.—Sandy soil in open position. Forms a nice tuft
of rather long narrow leaves and round heads of deep-blue flowers,
on stems about 8 to 12 inches high. Easily raised from seed.

PIERIS (see ANDROMEDA)

PINGUICULA (LENTIBULARIACEAE), Butterwort

Interesting little plants for wet, boggy spots.

P. alpina.—Needs moist peat and gravelly soil, and forms flat
rosettes of fleshy leaves. Flowers white, with yellow markings on
the tip. Roots firmly by means of woody fibres, and in this is very
different to P. grandiflora.

P. grandiflora.—Requires moist peat. Forms rosettes of light
green, fleshy leaves lying close to the ground, from which rise, on
stems about 3 inches high, the deep blue flowers like a violet. It
is not easy to cultivate, though a native. This is owing to the roots
being very few and only on the surface. Probably the best way
would be by sowing seed on the spot assigned to it. PP. vulgaris
is a commoner and smaller form.

P. vallisneriaefolia.—Requires a dripping fissure in limestone
rock, with ample drainage. Large, pale yellowish-green leaves.
Large, pale lilac flowers, with white centres. Rather a distinct
species.

PLATYCODON (see CAMPANULA GRANDIFLORA)

PLUMBAGO LARPENTAE (PLUMBAGINACEAE), syn.
CERATOSTIGMA PLUMBAGINOIDES

A deciduous plant, with rather woody stems, of a semi-prostrate
habit, growing about 12 inches high. It will grow in any soil, but
in a light sandy soil it blooms better. The flowers, which are
borne in trusses, are ot a fine deep blue. It is a valuable plant
on account of its late flowers, which last till the November frosts
destroy them. Quite hardy, and grows rapidly. Easily increased
by division.

AUPHABE VICAL, LIST, OF PLANTS 327

PoLEMONIUM (POLEMONIACEAE), Jacob’s Ladder

Only the dwarfer species of this genus are suitable for the rock
garden.

P. confertum.—Requires a warm position in well-drained, deep,
loamy soil. It has slender and deeply cut leaves, and clusters of
clear blue flowers, borne on stems about 6 inches high. Of easy
culture, but dislikes disturbance. Can be raised from seed.
mellitum is a white form.

P. humile.—Requires a dry, light soil. Forms tufts of pale green
leaves and bears numerous pale blue flowers on stems a few inches
high. Blooms in June. Hardy in a well-drained position, but a
damp subsoil will prove fatal. Propagated by seed or division.

P. reptans.—l\s of creeping habit, and has loose panicles of slaty-
blue flowers, borne 6 or 8 inches high. Propagated by division or
seed. Slugs are very partial to this plant.

PoLyGaLa (PotycaLacEAk), Milkwort

Interesting little plants, and some most suitable for the rock
garden.

P. Chamaebuxus.—Likes a half-shady position in sandy peat and
loam, well drained. It is evergreen, and forms compact tufts.
Flowers cream-coloured, and borne in profusion. The variety
purpurea is better, having purple flowers with a yellow centre. Of
easy culture, and increased by division. Both are most attractive
plants.

P. Rhodoptera and P. Vayredae are of the same type, with
crimson flowers. They are both of recent introduction.

P. calcarea.—Very similar to the common Milkwort of our hills,
and is alsoa native. It will grow easily in calcareous soil, and is
a pretty little plant.

PoLyGoNnaTuM (LILIACEAE), Solomon’s Seal

Attractive plants for growing amongst shrubs or on the higher
parts of the rock garden, where their graceful arching stems will
show to advantage. All are of easy culture in any light, well-
drained soil in partial shade, and are readily increased by division.
They are all deciduous.

P. biflorum.—Grows 1 to 3 feet high, with arching stems, and
small greenish-white flowers in pairs.

P. japonicum.—Grows about 2 feet high, and has white flowers
tinged with purple.

P. latifolium.—Bright green leaves on arching stems 2 to 3 feet

328 ROCK GARDENS

high. Flowers white and of a good size. The variety commutatum
grows as high as 7 feet, and is glabrous throughout.

P. multifiorum.—The common “Solomon’s Seal.” Grows 2 to 4
feet high, with bright, glaucous green leaves and white flowers.

P. officinale-—Only grows about 12 to 18 inches high, and is
otherwise similar to the last-named.

P. oppositifolium.—Requires rather a sheltered spot. It has
arching stems 2 to 3 feet high, with bright, glossy green leaves.
Flowers white, marked with reddish lines and dots, and borne in
bunches, followed by red berries in the autumn.

P. punctatum.—Angular, arching stems about 2 feet high. Hard,
leathery leaves, and white flowers with lilac dots. A handsome
plant.

P. roseum.—Arching stems 2 to 3 feet high. Leaves in whorls,
and flowers rose-coloured, borne in pairs at the axils of the leaves.
Very pretty species.

PoLyGonum (POLYGONACEAE)

A very large genus, of which a few are suitable for planting in the
rock garden, and even those, with a couple of exceptions, not of the
highest value. They can all be propagated by division.

P. affine.—Likes a moist, though well-drained position in loam.
It grows from 6 to 8 inches high, and has spikes of rosy flowers in
the autumn. It is a very pretty plant.

P. Brunonits.—Similar to theabove, with pale rose-coloured flowers,
borne in dense spikes, 12 to 18 inches high.

P. sphaerostachyum.—Dwarf-growing, with spikes of deep crimson
flowers. Very handsome, and one of the best.

P. vaccinifolium.—oOf neat, trailing habit and rapid growth.
Spikes of bright rose-coloured flowers in the summer and autumn.
A good plant for covering rocks or banks, and is not particular as
to aspect or soil. The best of the genus.

P. viviparum.—Very dwarf habit, with spikes of creamy-white
flowers. Quite a pretty little plant, and not so encroaching as
many of the genus are.

POTENTILLA (ROSACEAE)

Of this large genus there are only a few that should find a place
in the rock garden, but amongst these few are some of the best plants
we have. Propagated by seed, cuttings, or division.

P. ambigua.—W ell-drained, open position in sandy soil. Dwarf
and creeping habit, only about 3 inches high, forming a compact
mass. Large, clear yellow flowers. Of moderate, though not

—

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 329

rampant growth. Increased by division. A very pretty and
charming plant, of the easiest culture, and quite hardy.

P. alba.—Sunny position in ordinary light soil. Of a dwarf habit,
only a few inches high. Leaves green, and smooth above, but
covered beneath with a white, silky down. Flowers white, with
an orange ring at base of petals. Blooms in June. Is of the easiest
culture, and not a rampant grower. A good plant.

P. argentea.— Ordinary soil. Creeping and dwarf habit, growing
only about 6 inches high. Foliage covered with a silvery down.
Flowers yellow. Of easy culture, and useful as a variety, though
not otherwise possessing any special charm.

P. aurea.—Sunny position in light soil. Very dwarf habit, only
about 2 inches high. Leaves palmate, and fringed with silvery
hairs. Large yellow flowers, orange spotted at base. Blooms from
May to July. Is of easy culture, and increased by seed or division.

P. calabra.—Sandy soil in sun. Prostrate habit; undersides of
leaves silvery. Lemon-yellow flowers, produced during the summer.
Is of easy culture and worthy of a place.

P. davurica.— Light sandy soil in sun. A _ dwarf-growing,
compact little bush, about g inches high, of almost prostrate
habit. Dark green, glossy leaves, and white flowers. Of easy
culture. An attractive plant that should be more generally grown.
It is generally considered a form of P. fruticosa.

P. ertocarpa.—Ordinary soil in open position. Grows about
6 inches high. Large soft yellow flowers with an orange blotch
on each petal. Hardy and good grower and well worth a place.

P. fruticosa.—Light sandy soil and sunny aspect. Forms a
neat bush, about 2 feet high. Clusters of pretty yellow flowers,
freely produced during the summer. A very desirable and useful
shrub for massing, and of easy culture. Increased by cuttings.

P.f. humtlis.—Is a quite dwarf form of the above, with yellow
flowers from spring to autumn.

P. Friedrichseni.—Ordinary soil, open aspect. A shrub of erect
habit, growing about 3 to 4 feet high, and covered during the
summer with large, sulphur-coloured flowers. Charming, of quite
easy culture, and hardy. A hybrid, P. fruticosa x davurica.

P. nitida.—Dry, light, poor, sandy soil in a sunny position.
Only grows about 2to 3 inches high. Leaves covered with a silvery
down. Flowers delicate rose-coloured, from June to September.
Of easy culture, but a shy bloomer, except in poor, light soils.
A plant for a choice place. Readily increased by division.

P. nivalis.—Ordinary light soil in an open position. Grows 3
to 6 inches high. Leaves densely covered with a silky down.
Flowers white. Blooms in July.

P. nivea.—Light soil and open position. Very dwarf habit.

B20 «4 ROCK GARDENS

Leaves grey above, and snow-white beneath. Yellow flowers in
the summer.

P. Tonguet.—Ordinary soil in sunny position. Of trailing habit,
growing about 2 inches high. Flowers coppery-orange, with a
crimson centre. Not a very free bloomer. This plant should be
grown so that its branches can hang over some rock or stone.
It is of the easiest culture, and one of the best of the genus.

P. verna.—Any aspect in ordinary soil. Forms dwarf tufts,
which in summer are covered with bright yellow flowers, about
1 inch across. Quite easy to grow, pretty, and well worth a place.
Very closely allied to this plant is P. a/pestris, which is somewhat
coarser in growth, and is also a good plant.

PRATIA ANGULATA (CAMPANULACEAE), syn. LOBELIA
LITTORALIS

A pretty, creeping plant, indifferent to soil or aspect. It forms
a dense carpet, about 3 inches high, covered, in late summer, with
white flowers like a Lobelia, and followed by dark blue berries.
Of easy culture, and readily increased by division.

P. begonifolia. — Likes rather a sheltered, sunny position in
damp, peaty loam. Rather similar to the above, but has larger
and rounder leaves, which are downy. White flowers and purple
berries. Suitable for the drier parts of the bog garden.

PRIMULA (PRIMULACEAE)

This very large genus of well-known plants, of which there are
over two hundred species in cultivation, have botanically been
divided into twenty-one sections ; but, for our purpose, it will be
sufficient to separate them into three groups. The first, the rock-
loving kinds, such as P. auricula and P. marginata, which
should be grown wedged between stones, or in rocky crevices.
Next, the bog and moisture-loving plants, of which P. japonica
and P. stkkimensts are well-known types; and lastly, those that
can be grown in any moist, shady border, which include such
species as P. cashmeriana and P. capitata.

As might be expected in a genus containing so many species of
such diversity of habit and requirements, it is not possible to deal
with their cultural requirements as a whole, but directions will be
given with each as they appear in alphabetical order. The kinds
described in the following pages only contain about a quarter of the
known species, and are a selection of the most suitable and of easiest
culture, it being obviously impossible in a work of this kind to
give anything approaching an exhaustive list, nor would it indeed

ALPHABETICAL (LIST OF PLANTS ‘331

be advisable. Primulas hybridise so easily that new varieties are
constantly being put on the market, many of which have but a
botanical interest. A selection, which will be found on p. 334, has
therefore been made of the best and most distinct kinds not included
in the above list. In this country at least, Primulas, though
theoretically perennials, are but short-lived; it will therefore be
necessary, in order to keep up the stock, to raise plants from seed,
which should be sown as soon as ripe; for, if kept over the winter
many kinds may take a year, or even longer, to germinate, if they
do so at all.

P. algida.—Bog-loving ; in peat and loam, in half shade. Obtuse
leaves, finely toothed. Rich violet-purple flowers. Rather rare and
difficult to keep. Increased by seed, when it can be obtained.
Nearly allied to P. farinosa.

P. Allioniz— Requires gritty loam and plenty of moisture at its
roots. Plant in vertical position, or under ledge of rock, so that no
moisture can lie on its leaves, which are very susceptible to damp.
Of compact habit, forming cushion-like tufts of rather hairy leaves.
Flowers rosy-purple, with a pale centre, on short stems. A very
choice plant, but of difficult culture. Increased by seed or division.

P. amoena (syn. P. cortusoides Steboldi).— A half-shady and
sheltered position in rich, rather moist loam. Forms tufts of
rather rugose leaves, with umbels of violet-coloured flowers on stems
about 6 to 7 inches high, in April. Of vigorous growth, increased by
seed or division.

P. auricula.—The Auriculas may roughly be divided into two
groups. The one self-coloured, with leaves and other parts
smooth and not powdery. The other has flowers and stems
thickly coated with a white, powdery matter. Of the first group,
those known as alpine Auriculas are the hardiest and most suitable
for the rock garden. The second group are mainly florists’ varieties,
and are more delicate. They have again been divided into different
sections, according to the colour of the edge of the flower ; but I do
not propose to deal with these subtleties, and shall take only the
alpine section. The other kinds can of course be grown, and a
selection should be made of the most distinct and hardiest varieties.
The P. auricula, the parent of all these numerous varieties, is by no
means common. It is a limestone plant, and should be grown
wedged in between rocks in a vertical position, in partial shade. A
good, rather stiff, loamy soil suits it well. It has glaucous, rather
fleshy leaves, and yellow, sweet-scented flowers, borne in dense
umbels on stems 4 to 5 inches high.

The variety P. a. ciliata (syn. P. Balbistz) has its leaves edged
with granular hairs, and its yellow flowers are scentless, and not
farinose.

332 ROCK GARDENS

P. a. marginata, another variety, has a white margin to its
leaves, and yellow flowers. It is very liable to be confused with
P. marginata, a very distinct plant.

P. Balbisii (see P. auricula, var. ciliata).

P. Beestana.—Similar in requirements and habit to P. Bulleyana.,
Flowers rich velvety purple with a yellow eye, borne in whorls.
13 to 2 feet high. Handsome, free-flowering, and quite hardy.

P. Bulleyana.—Rich, moist loam in half shade. Leaves like the
common Primrose. Flowers orange-yellow, shaded on the outside
with apricot. Borne in whorls, and rising 9 to 12 inches high. A
very handsome new Chinese introduction, and said to be quite
hardy.

P. calycina (see P. glaucescens).

P. capitata.—Cool, shady position in good soil of peat, loam,
leaf-mould, and sand. The flowers, which are of a deep violet-blue,
thickly coated with a white powder on outer and lower parts, are
borne in dense globular heads on stems 6 to 9 inches high. It
blooms in the autumn. It is hardy, but reputed only a biennial,
though Mr Farrer says he had a clump for seven years, growing on
a well-drained slope, in light soil, which treatment I am trying, but
have not had time to fully test its efficacy, though, so far, all is well.
It can easily be raised from seed, and is one of the gems of the
genus.

P. capitellata—Shady position in very moist peat and sandy
loam. Forms a compact plant, with rather thick leaves and close
heads of purplish or deep red flowers, borne about 9 inches high.
Hardy and vigorous. A very attractive and uncommon plant.

P. carniolica (syn. P. Freyert and P. jellenkiana).—Requires a
half-shady spot in gritty loam. It should be grown wedged in
between rocks, in a sloping position. Forms rosettes of smooth
green leaves. Flowers bluish-purple, with a white centre. Blooms
in July, and of vigorous growth. Increased by division and seed.

P. cashmeriana (see P. denticulata).

P. ciliatum (syn. P. auricula ciliata).

P. clustana.—Half-shady position in calcareous and gritty loam.
Leaves dark green, margined with white. Large handsome violet-
carmine flowers, which bloom in April. Vigorous habit, and
one of the most beautiful of the genus. It much resembles
P. glaucescens (which is often sold for it), whose petals are not
divided as they are in P. clustana.

P. Cockburniana.—Half-shady position in moist, rich loam and
leaf-mould. Forms rosettes of primrose-like leaves. Erect stems
rise about 8 to 12 inches, and bear in whorls brilliant orange-
scarlet flowers. A unique shade in the genus. Quite hardy, but
unfortunately only a biennial; but it can readily be raised from

5

ALPRABE DICAL LIST \OF PLANTS 333

seed, which germinates quickly if sown as soon as ripe. A recent
introduction, and a most beautiful and valuable addition.

P. cortusotdes.—Requires a sheltered, shady position in rich,
sandy loam and leaf mould. Leaves soft and wrinkled, and spring-
ing from creeping stems 2 to 4 incheslong. The flowers deep rose-
coloured, borne in clusters on stems 6 to 8 inches high. Blooms in
spring, and foliage dies down early. Of very easy culture, and
increased by seed or division. Hardy.

P. c. Stieboldi.—The Japanese variety of this is synonymous with
P. amoena, which see.

P. deflexa.—Shady position in moist, sandy loam and leaf-mould.
Its leaves, which are hairy on both sides, form a rosette. Flowers
rose-purple, in a dense head, which are individually deflexed. It is
a biennial, and will require same treatment as P. Cockburniana.

P. denticulata.—Rich, moist soil in a shady position. Large
leaves in rosettes, and globular heads of deep lilac-coloured flowers,
on stems about 12 inches high. Blooms inthe spring. Quite hardy,
and is a very vigorous grower. Easily raised from seed or division.
A handsome and valuable plant.

P. d., var. cashmeriana.—Differs from the last in having the
undersides of its leaves thickly coated with a yellow powder, and
having rather lighter-coloured flowers. It is also a charming and
useful plant, of robust habit and easy culture. P. pulcherrima
and P. Henryi are also varieties of P. denticulata, but neither so
good as the above.

P. deorum.—A bog plant, requiring a very wet position in rich
loam and leaf-mould. Leaves long and lanceolate. Rich rosy-
purple flowers in large umbels, and very freely produced. Division
and seed. A rare and lovely plant.

P. erosa (syn. P. Fortunet).—Requires an open, sheltered position
in light, sandy loam and leaf-mould. Flat heads of light lavender-
coloured flowers, with yellow eyes. It is very similar to P. denéz-
culata, but may be distinguished from it by its smooth and regularly
toothed leaves, which are sometimes quite powdery. Seed and
division.

P. farinosa.—A bog plant for a shady position in rich, moist loam,
or it can be planted in a moist crevice between rocks. The leaves,
which form a rosette, are covered with a silvery-white powder, as is
the rest of the plant. Dense umbels of lilac-coloured flowers, with
a yellow centre, borne on stems 8 inches high, are freely produced
in May and June. Of easy culture, and can be increased by seed
or division. A very lovely plant, P. farinosa, var. Scotia, has
deeper-coloured flowers, and is of dwarfer habit.

P. Forresti.—Shady position in moist, sandy loam. The flowers,
which are of a rich golden-yellow, shading to deep orange, are borne

334 ROCK GARDENS

in umbels, the individual flower slightly deflexed. Flower-stem
erect, and about 9 inches high. Both leaves and flowers are
fragrant. Quite a new introduction from China, and very hand-
some. It has been proved to be hardy, and of easy culture.

P. Fortunei.—Open position in gritty loam and leaf soil. Rosy
lilac flowers, very like P. frondosa. Stems richly powdered with
white farina. A very attractive species, but not very hardy. It
requires Copious moisture at all times.

P. Fosteri—Half shade in sandy loam. Dwarf habit, forming
compact tufts with large carmine-coloured flowers. Vigorous and
free-blooming, this hybrid between P. viscosa and P. minima is
one of the best kinds we have.

P. frondosa,—Likes a half-shady position in moist, sandy peat
and loam. Similar to P. farinosa, except that its leaves are larger.
It is of vigorous habit and easy culture. Readily increased by
division.

P. glaucescens (syn. P. calycina).—Likes a half-shady position in
calcareous loam, and does well planted in fissures of rocks. Forms
a tuft of bluish-grey, hard leaves. Loose umbels of carmine-lilac
flowers in March and April. A good plant, of easy culture.

P. glutinosa.—Requires partial shade in moist, peaty soil mixed
with sphagnum. Leaves long and narrow. Flowers purple, borne
on stems 4 to 5 inches long. A difficult plant to cultivate. A
native of granite soils.

P. grandis.—Partial shade in moist, loamy soil. Foliage large
and handsome. Small yellow flowers, of drooping habit, and
produced in umbels on stems about 12 inches high. Quite hardy
and vigorous. Flowers freely produced in the spring. Increased
by seed or division.

P. hirsuta.—Should be grown between rocks or stones in sandy
peat or loam plentifully mixed with stones. It forms rosettes of
coarse, downy leaves, serrated at the edge. Flowers purplish-
crimson, borne on stalks about 4 inches long. It is a granite-
loving plant, and not difficult to grow. This plant is rather variable
in colour, and of the several forms the best is that known as P.
nivalis, which has lovely pure white flowers, and is of easiest
culture, and increased by division. Other plants known as P.
ciliata, and its varieties coccinea and purpurea, are forms of this
plant, both of which are well worth growing.

P. integrifolia.—Half-shady position in sandy loam and pieces
of limestone. Forms diminutive, dense, crowded tufts of smooth
shiny leaves lying close to the ground. Flowers rose-coloured,
and borne on very short stems rising scarcely above the leaves.
Rather a shy bloomer in cultivation, and not an easy plant to
grow.

ABRPHABEIICAL LIST OR (PLANTS. 335

P. involucrata.—Likes a shady position in very moist, sandy
loam. Fragrant flowers, creamy white, with a yellow centre, and
borne in umbels on stems 6 inches high. This plant is practically
only a biennial, and so should be raised annually from seed, which,
if good, germinates quickly.

P. japonica.—Though not very particular as regards soil or
aspect, so long as there is a sufficient amount of moisture, it is finer
and more effective when grown in half shade in rich, moist loam.
The flowers vary considerably in colour, from white to deep
crimson, and are borne in whorls on stems from I to 2 feet in
height. It is of easiest culture, and bold masses of it planted by
the side of a stream are very effective. Easily raised from seed,
which sows itself freely.

P. kitaibeliana.—Moist soil in partial shade. Downy leaves and
rose-coloured flowers. It is a variety of P. sfectadilis.

P. latifolia (syn. P. graveolens).—Likes an open position in sandy
peat and loam. Will do well planted between rocks. It requires
plenty of moisture during the growing season and perfect drainage.
Soft, greyish leaves. Rather broad and large heads of violet-
coloured flowers in some profusion during the early summer. A
handsome plant, of easy culture. Readily increased by division or
seed.

P. Littoniana.—Partial shade in rich, moist loam. Leaves of
rather upright habit. The calyx in which the flower-bud is
enveloped is bright red. The flower itself varies in colour from rich
dark purple to pale lilac. These are borne on stems from 12 to 18
inches high, in pyramidal heads shaped more like an orchid. The
effect of the purple flowers and the red calyx is very striking and
beautiful. This is quite a new introduction from China. It is
reputed quite hardy, and not difficult to cultivate, and should prove
a great acquisition.

P. longiflora.—Likes a half-shady position in very moist, sandy
loam. Leaves and all its parts covered with a white, mealy powder.
Umbels of lilac-coloured flowers, having tubes 1 inch or more in
length. A handsome and distinct species, and of easy culture, and
increased by seeds.

P. luteola.—Rich, moist loam in partial shade, though this latter
is not essential. Forms compact tufts of bright green leaves.
Umbels of soft yellow flowers, borne on stems about 6 to 9 inches
high. Vigorous, and of easy culture, and should be freely grown,
and is one of the best. Increased by division.

P. marginata.—Open situation amongst stones in gritty loam,
plentifully mixed with lime rubbish. Forms branching stems, each
bearing a rosette of smooth, greyish, powdery leaves, with a silvery
edge. Small heads of pale lilac flowers in April and May. One of

336 ROCK GARDENS

the best and easiest to cultivate. It is liable to grow leggy, and
when this happens it should be taken up and divided.

P. megasaefolia.—Requires a very sheltered position in sandy
loam and leaf-mould. Large, round, leathery leaves and rosy-
purple or pale lilac-coloured flowers in umbels, on stems about 12
inches high. It flowers in winter, so will need shelter. It is quite
hardy, and is easily increased by division.

P. minima.—Sun or partial shade in a well-drained, sandy soil,
with abundant moisture at its roots. Dwarf-growing, and forming
tufts of coarsely toothed, prostrate leaves. Flowers rose-coloured,
and borne singly or in pairs on short stalks. Not very easy to grow,
but is well worth taking trouble about. It may be increased by
division.

P. muscariotdes.—Shady position in richloam. A very distinctive
species; the flower spikes of rich purple remind one more of a
Grape Hyacinth than a Primula. It is very dwarf in habit. A
miniature gem and quite hardy.

P. nivalis (see P. hirsuta).

P. obconica.—Sheltered and sunny position in loam and leaf-
mould. Umbels of pale lilac flowers freely produced. This
species, generally considered a greenhouse plant, will, in favourable
climates, grow out of doors, and should find a spot in the rock
garden.

P. Parryi.—Partial shade in moist, well-drained, spongy loam,
leaf-mould, and peat. Leaves erect, and large umbels of very
brilliant crimson-purple flowers. It is difficult to grow, and will
not thrive everywhere ; but as it is one of the handsomest of
the genus, it is worth taking some trouble about. Readily raised
from seed.

P. Palinurt.—North aspect, planted between pieces of sandstone
in light loam and leaf-mould. Like an Auricula, but leaves larger
and a brighter green. Yellow flowers, rather small. A rather
curious and rare species.

P. pedemontana.—Half shade in fissure of rocks in light soil.
Forms large rosettes, and bears bright crimson-purple flowers.
Very nearly allied to P. viscosa.

P. Potssont.—Rich, moist, loamy soil in partial shade. Rather
similar to P. japonica, except that its leaves are glaucous. Whorls
of lilac-purple-coloured flowers. Easily raised from seed, which
should be done annually, for, like others of this family, it is rather
liable to die after flowering. It is a handsome plant.

P. pulchelloides.—Rich, deep, moist loam. Rather similar in
appearance and habit to P. stkkimensis. Flowers pale lilac flushed
with rose. The whole plant richly coated with yellow farina. A
very handsome plant and quite hardy.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 337

P. pulverulenta—Rich, moist loam in sun or partial shade.
Very similar in foliage and habit to P. jafonica, except that it has
brighter-coloured flowers, and the stems and calyces are coated
with a white powder. A very handsome plant, and very effective
grown in masses. Easily increased by seed or division.

P. Reidit.—A most lovely plant, but very difficult to grow in this
country. Of dwarf habit, it forms rosettes of leaves covered with
silky hairs, and bears a few large and lovely ivory-white, drooping
flowers. It is best to grow this plant in a frame in light soil. Seed
germinates readily.

P. rosea.—Likes a shady position in rich, very moist loam and
leaf-mould. It forms good-sized tufts, from which spring stems
about 6 inches high, each bearing umbels of lovely rose-coloured
flowers, which bloom in early spring. One of the easiest to cultivate
and most beautiful of our Primulas. It can easily be increased by
seed or division. There is a form known as P. rosea grandiflora
which has larger and brighter-coloured flowers and is equally robust.

P. scotica.—Is a sturdy, dwarf form of P. farinosa, with larger
purple flowers, and requires similar treatment.

P. secundifiora.—Requires a damp position, though ample
drainage is essential. It appears to do best on a raised mound,
where the roots can descend into moisture below. Habit much the
sameas P. stkkimensis. Flowers a rich purple, very freely produced
and sweet-scented. One of the many recent introductions from
China, and well worth growing.

P. stkkimensis.—Rich, deep, very moist soil in shady position.
It forms nice tufts, which die down completely in the winter. The
lovely, drooping flowers are bell-shaped and sweetly scented, and
are borne in umbels on the top of tall, slender stems, which some-
times are nearly 3 feet high. It blooms in May and continues in
flower foralong time. Itis one of the easiest to cultivate, and quite
one of the loveliest. It can readily be raised from seed or division.

P. spectabilis.— Likes loamy, calcareous soil, and should be
planted in well-drained fissures of rocks. It has bright green
viscous leaves margined with white. Flowers large, and of a violet-
carmine colour. It is rather difficult to grow successfully. It is
very nearly allied to P. glaucescens.

P. Stuartit.—Shady position in rich, moist, sandy loam. Very
large leaves, green on top and powdery underneath. Bright
golden-yellow flowers are borne in umbels. There is also a
variety, purpurea, with rich purple-coloured flowers. Both are
very difficult to maintain in health, and seedlings are very liable
to damp off. They are very lovely, and considered by some
varieties of P. stkkimensis, but unfortunately do not possess its
constitution.

22

338 ROCK GARDENS

P. suffruticosa.—A shrub-like species, and very distinct. It likes
a warm, sheltered spot in light stony soil. Leaves narrow and
spatulate. Flowers rosy-purple, and borne on stems 4 to 5 inches
high. It bloomsin May. It is rather tender, and in most places
requires some protection during the winter. Can be readily
increased by cuttings.

P. tyrolensis—Open position in loamy soil. This species is very
similar to P. All/ionit, but leaves are of a brighter shade of green,
there are fewer flowers borne on each umbel, and it is not so
impatient of exposure to sun and rain.

P. Veitchiit.—Good, loamy soil in sheltered position. In foliage
and habit rather like P. cortusoides. Rose-coloured flowers,
with an orange ring at the throat. It is quite hardy and vigor-
ous. It dies down completely during the winter. Increased by
division.

P. viscosa.—Light, gritty, sandy, peaty loam in any aspect,
wedged between rocks or stones. Rosy-purple flowers, with a
white eye, blooming in summer. It is of the easiest culture,
so long as the soil is free from lime, which it dislikes. Readily
increased by seed or division. The flowers vary considerably
in colour.

P. winteri.—Good, loamy soil in shady position. Forms tufts of
broad, leathery leaves. Flowers delicate soft lilac with fringed
petals. Whole plant heavily powdered. A new introduction from
the Himalayas.

P. wulfeniana.—Half-shady position between stones in well-
drained, calcareous soil. Forms tufts of rather shiny leaves.
Flowers deep purple, and borne in loose heads. Blooms in April.
Of the easiest culture, and quite hardy. It is an excellent rock
plant. Increased by division. The following are some hybrids :—

P. assimilis (superhirsuta x integrifolia)—Large downy leaves
and purple flowers.

P. bifiora (glutinosa x minima).—F lowers lilac-mauve.

P. Facchinii (minima x spectabilis)—A strong-growing form of
minima.

P. Heerit (integrifolia x viscosa).— Free habit and crimson
flowers.

P. kewensis (floribunda x verticilata).—Y ellow flowers in whorls.
Hardy only in southern counties.

P. Sturit (minima x villosa).—Rose-lilac flowers.

P. unique (Cockburniana x pulverulenta).—One of the most
beautiful hybrids. Striking cinnabar-red flowers. Quite hardy, and
a good perennial.

P. Venzoi, a hybrid (wulfeniana x tyrolensis).—Flowers rosy-
purple, freely produced. Hardy and free flowering.

ae

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 339

PRUNELLA (LABIATAE), Self-Heal

A genus of plants suitable for the rougher parts of rock garden.

P. grandiflora.—Fairly light rather damp soil in partial shade.
Of compact habit, growing about 6 to 12 inches high. Flower
violet-purple, produced in August. Fairly hardy. Readily
increased by division, but has not any special merit for the rock
garden.

P. laciniata.—Same habit as above, requiring similar treatment.
Flowers white, freely produced in summer.

P. Webbiana.—Of dwarf and compact habit, growing about 9
inches high. Reddish-crimson flowers with darkish-coloured
bracts. The best of the genus.

Prunus (ROSACEAE)

A genus of hardy trees and shrubs, of which few are at all suitable
for the rock garden.

P. prostrata.—Ordinary soil in open situation. Of semi-prostrate
habit. Profusion of rose-coloured flowers in spring. Hardy,
deciduous shrub, and increased by cuttings.

P. pumila (syn. Cerasus adepressa).—Open position in ordinary
light soil. Prostrate habit. White flowers, borne in umbels during
May. Very pretty, and quite hardy and easily cultivated.

PULMONARIA (BORAGINACEAE), Lungwort

A genus of plants more suitable for borders, though a few varieties
may find a place in the less choice parts of the rock gardens. Pro-
pagated by seed or division.

P. arvenense.—Ordinary soil in open position. Compact habit,
growing about 6 inches high. Flowers purple, borne in early
summer. Quite hardy. Increased by division.

P. angustifolia.—Pretty blue flowers. There is also a variety
alba, with white flowers. Both quite hardy.

P. a. azurea.—Azure-blue flowers of a brilliant shade.

P. rubva.—Beautiful clear rose-coloured flowers freely produced.
The most attractive of the genus. Also quite hardy and of easy
culture.

PyRETHRUM (COMPOSITAE)

A genus of herbaceous plants, mostly too coarse-growing for the
rock garden ; but the following are of dwarf habit. They are of
easy culture in ordinary soil and open position. Propagated by
division or seed.

340 ROCK GARDENS

P. argenteum.—Shrubby habit, growing only a few inches high. |

Silvery foliage. Flowers yellow.

P. densum.—Dwarf, shrubby plant, with silvery, fern-like foliage.
Flowers dull yellow.

P. Hausknechi.—Silvery foliage and yellow flowers. Would grow
in the wall garden.

Pyrota (ERICACEAE), Wintergreen

A genus of dwarf evergreen, hardy plants of much beauty, but
some rather difficult to cultivate.

P. elliptica.—Half-shady position in moist, sandy, and peaty soil.
Grows about 6 inches. White campanulate flowers in racemes
during June and July. Increased by division. Pretty, and not
specially difficult to cultivate.

P. incarnata. —Half shade in moist, sandy vegetable soil.
Rosettes of roundish leaves. Grows about 6 to 8 inches high.
Flowers rosy-red colour. Hardy, but difficult to grow with any
success. It is very attractive, and about the prettiest of the genus.
Propagated by division.

P. rotundifolia—Half shade in moist, peaty, and sandy soil.
White fragrant flowers, borne in drooping racemes on erect stems
about 6 to 12 inches high. Leaves roundish, forming rosettes.
Blooms in the summer. Increased by division. Not at all difficult
to grow, and a very charming little plant.

P. uniflora (see Moneses unifiora).

Pyrus (ROSACEAE)

This large genus gives some very beautiful and suitable species.

P. Maulei (syn. Cydonia Maulet).—Ordinary soil and open posi-
tion. Dwarf habit. Flowers bright red, followed by golden-yellow
fruit. A very beautiful spring-flowering shrub,

P. prostrata (syn. Cydonia prostrata).—Ordinary soil; open situa-
tion. Prostrate habit. Rich crimson-coloured flowers in spring.
Also a very lovely shrub, of easy culture.

PYXIDANTHERA BARBULATA (syn. DIAPENSIA BARBULATA)

A very dwarf little evergreen shrub, only growing about 2 inches
high. Requires a sunny position in nearly pure sand, with a very
little vegetable loam mixed with it. The solitary white or rose-
coloured flowers are stalkless, and borne on the branches in pro-
fusion during earlysummer. A very lovely little plant. Hardy, but
not easy to cultivate. Increased by division.

~ Seat

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 341

RaMONDIA (GESNERIACEAE)

A small genus of attractive plants, of easy culture in a shady
spot, in light, well-drained, damp, peaty soil. They are excellent
for planting in vertical fissures, as they like such positions, where
no moisture can lie on their large, flat rosettes of leaves. They
will quickly shrivel and die if exposed for long to the direct rays of
the sun, so an aspect either north or east should suit them. They
are all lovely, of easy culture, and quite hardy. Propagated by
seed, or by one of the leaves. These should be broken off close
to the plant, and the footstalk inserted in moist, sandy peat, and
kept close.

R. pyrenaica.—Forms large, flat rosettes of dark green, crinkly,
rather hairy leaves. Flowers violet-purple colour, with an orange
eye, borne on stems about 4 inches high. Blooms in June.

R. p. alba is a pure white form, even more lovely than the type.

hk. p. rosea is a rose-coloured form, also extremely beautiful.

Between these two last there are a variety of intermediate shades.

R. Serbica.—Has rather brighter-coloured leaves, and the flowers
are a very pleasing shade of mauve. It requires similar cultivation
to the last.

R. S., var. Nathaliae.—\s a variety of the last, with rather deeper-
coloured flowers.

R. Heldreichit (see Jankea Heldreichit).

RANUNCULUS

A very large genus, giving many lovely plants, of which the
following are a selection of the most suitable :-—

R. aconitifolius.—Half-shady position in rich, moist loam. A
much-branched plant, growing 8 to 12 inches high, bearing a pro-
fusion of small pure white flowers in May and June. Propagated
by division. Quite hardy, and a very pretty and excellent plant
for the bog garden.

k. alpestris—Sunny position in moist, gritty loam. Forms
compact tufts about 4 inches high. Leaves three-lobed, and of a
dark glossy green colour. Flowers pure white, with a yellow eye,
borne two or three on each stem. Flowers very freely produced
during the whole summer. Quite hardy, and of easy culture.
Propagated by seed or division.

R. amplexicaulis.—Cool, light loam, in open position. Leaves
glaucous, and stem-clasping. Flowers pure white, with a yellow
centre, and very freely produced. Grows 7 to Io inches high.
Blooms in April and May. A very lovely plant, of easy cultivation,
and should be freely grown. Propagated by seed and division.

342 ROCK GARDENS

R. anemonoides.—Cool, moist position, in light loam. Leaves
glaucous green, and divided. Large white, pink-tinted flowers, on
stems 4 to 6 inches high, in April and May. Hardy, and easily
cultivated. A very charming little plant. Increased by seed or
division.

R. bulbosus fl. £l.—This is a double variety of the common
Buttercup.

R. bulbosus F. M. Burton.—\s a pale, sulphur-coloured variety of
the common Buttercup.

R. crenatus.—Gritty soil in open position. Very similar to
R. alfestris in habit and appearance.

R. glacialis.—Open position in very gritty, rather heavy, moist
loam. Forms good tufts 6 to 8 inches high. Of spreading habit.
Leaves palmate, dark green, and usually smooth, but some are
downy. Flowers white or reddish, suffused with purple, with a
hairy calyx, borne in profusion from June to August. It is of
easy culture, and readily increased by division. This species is
found growing at a higher elevation than any other European plant.

R. gramineus.—Open position in cool, light loam. Grows 6 to
12 inches high. Grass-like, bluey-green leaves. Flowers yellow,
borne three or four on each erect stem. Blooms in May and June,
and very floriferous. Of easy culture, and a very charming plant
of moderate growth. Division or seed.

R. Lyallii.—Peaty soil in open position. Very large, peltate,
glossy leaves. Pure white, waxy flowers, 3 to 4 inches across.
Grows 2 to 3 feet high. A very difficult plant to cultivate, and as
handsome as difficult.

R. montanus.—Open position in light, sandy loam. Dwarf and
compact-growing, and of spreading habit. Flowers yellow, and
freely produced from May to July. Of easy culture and vigorous
growth. Increased by seed and division.

R. nyssanus.—A large edition of the common Buttercup, with
citron-yellow flowers in May. A free-growing species.

R. parnassifolius—Open position in light, calcareous soil.
Leaves dark brownish-green, rather heart-shaped. Flowers pure
white, one to a dozen borne on each many-branched stem, about 5
inches high. A most lovely and attractive plant, of easy culture.
Propagated by division or seed.

R. pyrenaeus.—Rather moist, open position in light loam. Grass-
like leaves, 6 to 10 inches high. Flowers white, produced from
June to August. Of easy culture, and a very attractive plant,
especially when grown in fairly large masses. Very similar to this
is R. plantagineus, in fact by some considered only a variety.

R. rutaefolius.—Open situation in sandy loam. Leaves pinnate
and glaucous, and of a bluey-grey colour. Flowers white, with an

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 343

orange centre, which are borne in some profusion from May to
July. Of easy culture, and increased by division or seed.

R. Seguiert.—Almost similar to R. glacilis.

k. Thora—Open position in gritty loam. Leaves smooth,
growing about 6 inches high. Flowers yellow, and borne in some
profusion in May. Of easy culture. The tuberous root is said to
be poisonous.

RHEXIA VIRGINICA (MELASTOMACEAE)

A half-shrubby plant for the bog garden in deep, moist, sandy
peat. Forms a compact little bush 6 to 12 inches high. Flowers
rosy-purple, on square stems, borne during the summer. Hardy,
but rather difficult to cultivate. Division. Other species of this
genus are not sufficiently hardy.

RHODODENDRON (ERICACEAE)

Of this large genus of beautiful evergreen shrubs I shall only
deal with those of dwarf habit suitable for using amongst the larger-
growing rock plants ; but for massing on heights to form a back-
ground there are no better shrubs, and few as good.

R. ciliatum.—Peaty soil in sheltered position. Hairy leaves,
and flowers reddish-pink, and of good size. Compact and dwarf
habit, only growing about 2 feet high. A very good shrub.

R. ferrugineum (Alpine Rose),—Has scarlet-coloured flowers.

R. hirsutum.—Red flowers.

R. myrittfoltum.—Pink flowers.

R. ovatum.—Rosy-purple, spotted darker purple.

R. parviflorum.—Sulphur-coloured flowers.

R. racemosum.—Pale pink flowers.

The above are a few of the dwarfer species, but there are others
equally good. They all like a sheltered and cool position in a
fibrous, peaty soil devoid of lime, except &. 4zrsutum, which will
grow in a limestone soil.

RHODORA CANADENSIS (ERICACEAE)

A deciduous shrub nearly allied to the Rhododendron. Likes
a moist, peaty soil. Leaves oblong, and downy beneath. Rosy-
purple flowers in clusters before the leaves. Grows 2 to 4 feet
high.

RHODOTHAMNUS CHAMAECISTUS (ERICACEAE)

A shrub also nearly allied to the Rhododendron genus. Peaty
soil in limestone fissures of rocks. Dwarf habit, only growing

344 ROCK GARDENS

about 6 inches high. Leaves ciliated, small, and fleshy. Flowers
purplish-pink, solitary, at end of branches. A difficult plant to
cultivate, but very pretty.

RODGERSIA PODOPHYLLA (SAXIFRAGACEAE)

Requires shady position in a rich loam and peaty soil. Large,
erect, palmate leaves, five-sected, of a bronzy-green colour, growing
from 2 to 4 feet high. The flowers yellowish, borne in spikes, are
inconspicuous. Propagated by division of its stoloniferous root-
stock. A good plant for bog garden. Deciduous,

ROMANZOFFIA SITCHENSIS (HYDROPHYLLACEAE)

Gritty soil in sun. Grows only 4 inches high, and has white
flowers in May. Is very like some of the Rockfoils.

ROMNEYA COULTERI (PAPAVERACEAE)

This shrubby perennial is better known as the Californian Tree
Poppy. Likes open, though sheltered position, in rich, sandy loam.
Grows 4 to 6 feet high. Glaucous leaves. Flowers pure white,
with yellow stamens. The petals are most beautifully crinkled like
tissue paper. It is not reputed very hardy, but will stand a good
deal of frost. Increased by division, but it should be carefully done,
as it rather resents disturbance. One of the most beautiful half-
shrubby plants that can be found for associating with the taller-
growing shrubs in the rock garden.

Rosa (ROSACEAE)

Description of the Rose, the fairest of flowers, is unnecessary.
Besides the following dwarf-growing varieties, many of the new
Wichuriana hybrids, such as “ Dorothy Perkins, “Crimson
Rambler,” “Lady Gay,” etc., will, if space permit, look lovely grow-
ing over some large rock or bank, while for the wild garden such
species as acicularis, polyantha, gd. fl., rugosa hybrids, etc., would
look lovely falling over some craggy height. Of the dwarf kinds the
following are the best :—

k. alpina.—F lowers single, pink or red colour. Grows about
2 feet high.

R. al. pyrenaica—Is a variety, but quite distinct. Of dwarfer
habit, and stems spiny. Flowers rosy-red.

R. nitida.—Is also very charming, only growing 12 to 18 inches
high, with rosy-crimson flowers.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 345

Also the native Burnet Roses give every shade from creamy-white
to bright rose, and should find a home in some sunny spot.

ROSMARINUS PROSTRATA

A prostrate form of the well-known shrub. It only grows about
6 to 8 inches high. It likes a dry, sunny, sheltered position. A
most charming little shrub for growing over some rock. It is of
vigorous habit, but not hardy everywhere, or, at least, is likely to
suffer in severe frost.

Rusus (Rosacea£), Bramble

Of this large genus there are a few species suitable :—

R. arcticus.—Peaty soil in a sheltered nook. Grows only about
6 inches high. Flowers bright carmine-pink. Hardy, and a very
charming little plant.

R. Chamaemorus (Cloudberry).—Likes rather a damp soil. Of
erect habit, but only growing some 4 to 8 inches high. Large
white flowers in July. Hardy, and very pretty.

R. pedatus.—Sheltered position in peaty soil. Of rather trailing
habit. Leaves palmate. Flowers white and large. A charming
plant.

R. fruticosa Caesius (Dewberry).—Damp, peaty soil. Prostrate
habit. Flowers white.

Ruscus (LILIACEAE)

Half-shrubby plants, useful for shady places in or near the rock
garden. They are not particular about soil, but prefer that of rather
a free and leafy nature. Propagated by division of the roots.

R. aculeatus (Butcher’s Broom).—Insignificant flowers. Berries
bright red.

R. Hypophylium.—F lowers insignificant. Berries red.

R. racemosus (Alexandrian Laurel).—A pretty foliage plant with
dark, glossy green leaves.

SALIX (SALICINEAE), Willow

There are some dwarf species of the Willows which are pretty,
and might find a place in the rock garden in the less choicer parts.
All are of the easiest culture. The best for this purpose are S.
lanata, S. reticulata, and S. herbacea.

SANGUINARIA CANADENSIS (PAPAVERACEAE), Blood Root

Likes a shady position in rather moist, peaty soil. Leaves large
and greyish, springing from the prostrate rootstock, and about 6

Gabi yi? ROCK GARDENS

inches high. Handsome white flowers, borne singly on stems about
8 inches high. Propagated by division, and of fairly easy culture.
It derives its name from the red juice that is in the leaves and
stems.

SANTOLINA (ComposiITAE), Lavender Cotton

A genus of shrubs which mostly have yellow flowers and silvery
foliage. They grow about 2 feet high, and are of easy culture.
Propagated by cuttings. They are useful for parts of the rock
garden, but should not be associated with any of the choicer plants.
The following are suitable:—S. Chamaecyparissus, S. ¢. tncana,
S.c. Sguarrosa, S.c. tomentosa, and S. rosmarintfolia.

SAPONARIA (CARYOPHYLLEAE), Soapwort

A genus of plants nearly allied to the Pinks. Easily propagated
by division or seed.

S. Boissiert.—Sunny position in light sandy loam. Of vigorous
and spreading habit. Flowers bright pink. Of easy culture.

S. caespitosa.—Sunny position in light sandy soil. Forms rosettes
3 to 6 inches high of glabrous leaves. Flowers rose-coloured, on
short stalks, in July. Hardy, and a pretty little plant.

S. Zutea.—Sunny aspect in sandy soil. Compact habit, and only
grows from 3 to 6 inches high. Leaves narrow. Yellow flowers
with a woolly calyx. Not very hardy.

S. ocymoides—Sunny position in deep loamy soil. Prostrate,
trailing habit. Flowers rose-coloured and very numerous, and
produced from May to August. Of very easy culture, and quite
hardy. Should be planted so that its trailing stems can fall over a
rock. A very pretty and valuable species. There is a variety,
splendidissima, even better than the type.

S. wienmanniana.—Loam in sunny position. Bears pink flowers.

SARRACENIA (SARRACENIACEAE), Pitcher Plant

A few species of this orchid are fairly hardy in favoured localities
and may be grown in the bog garden in moist peat and sphagnum,
in a sheltered position. The following are the best species to try:
—S. Drummondt, S. purpurea, and S. flava.

SAXIFRAGA (SAXIFRAGACEAE)

This very large genus of dwarf-growing plants is of the greatest
possible value for the rock garden. There are over three hundred
species, so it is not surprising that considerable confusion exists as

AEPHABEDICALM LIST OF PLANTS: 944

to classification and names. They have botanically been divided
into fifteen sections, but for our purpose it will be simpler to arrange
them in groups, more or less according to their cultural needs. The
species, for convenience sake, will he arranged alphabetically, and
after each will be found the number of the group to which it belongs.
If it needs any special treatment, this will be given; otherwise it
may be understood that it will require the same cultivation as was
given for the group. The Saxifrages are all readily increased by
division or seed. It may generally be taken that any species
showing silvery encrusted markings on their leaves require a lime-
stone soil, or lime in some form.

Group I. The Mossy

These make compact, mossy tufts, and are of the easiest culture.
They are about the most valuable species for the rock garden, not
only on account of the wealth of their bloom in summer, but also
because of their evergreen foliage, which is beautiful even in the
depth of winter. These species do best in well-drained, gritty soil,
in an open, sunny position. Some, however, of the red-flowered
kinds, such as 5S. “ Gudldford Seedling,’ keep their colour better if
planted in partial shade. Examples of this group are S. muscozdes,
S. trifurcata, and S. Wallacez.

Group II, The Encrusted or Silver Saxifrages

These form flat rosettes of stiff, leathery leaves, more or less
encrusted with a silvery deposit, chiefly on the edges. From the
centres of these rosettes rise tall, loose spikes of flower. These
species require a sunny position, and look best when planted in
some crevice or chink of a rock, where they can have a deep root-
run in well-drained, gritty loam, plentifully mixed with lime rubbish.
They are mostly of easy culture. Examples of this group are
S. Atzoon and its varieties, S. longifolia, and S. Cotyledon.

Group IIT, The Cushion

These are so called because they make dense, hard little cushions,
somewhat variable in appearance, being in some cases formed of
erect, spiny leaves, while in others of small flat rosettes. They
include some of the most difficult of the genus to cultivate. As a
general rule they require an open, sunny position, yet one not too
sunburnt, in well-drained, light gritty loam, plentifully mixed with
lime rubbish. Stone chips in the soil and around the plants will be
found beneficial. Examples of this group are S. durseriana and
its varieties, S. diapenstoides, and S. apiculata.

348 ROCK GARDENS

Group IV. The Creeping

S. opposttifolia and its varieties are typical of this group, which
contains but few species. They require a sunny position in well-
drained, gritty loam.

Group V. Umbrosa “ London Pride”

The species included in this group are mostly of easy culture, and
not particular as to position, doing equally well in sun or partial
shade. All they require is good, well-drained, gritty soil. S. Geum
and S. umbrosa are typical.

Group VI. Megasea

These plants are of quite a distinct type, and do not form the
compact cushions or tufts so typical of the other species. They
have large fleshy leaves, sometimes as much as 15 inches across,
which often in winter and early spring take a fine dark crimson
colour. The flowers are borne in bold spikes. They will do well
in partial shade, and are not very particular as to soil; any good
gritty loam seems to suit them. They are useful for associating
with the stronger-growing plants. .S. cordifolia is an example of
the type.

Other species not included in any of the above groups will be
dealt with as they occur in the alphabetical list. Provided the soil
is light and well drained, but little difficulty should be experienced
in growing any of the Saxifrages.

S. aegilops (Group I., Mossy).—Rather blunt-looking leaves and
numerous pink flowers in June and July. Grows about 6 inches high.

S. afghanica (see S. Strachey2).

S. atzoides (Group II., Encrusted).—Though belonging to this
group, it is very different to the type, having rather succulent-looking
leaves with no trace of silver on them. It has yellow flowers,
dotted with yellow, and blooms in June and July. It is a native,
and is found growing in wet bogs, so will be found useful for a
moist spot in the bog garden.

S. Aitzoon (Group II., Encrusted).—This species is one of the
most typical of the group. It has yellowish-white flowers, borne in
panicles on erect stems about 6 inches high, in June. A very
variable species, and some doubt exists as to what the true plant is.
The following are the best varieties :—

S. A. balcana.—F lowers large, white spotted pink.

S. A. flavescens.—Flowers pale yellow. Distinct, and good
variety, and free-blooming.

S. A. lutea—F lowers yellow ; also a good plant.

ALPHABEPICAL -LIST ‘OF PLANTS 349

S. A. minor.—A small form with speckled flowers.

S. A. paradoxa.—Flowers yellowish-green, not very attractive ;
but foliage is very pretty. Rosettes of narrow blue-grey leaves
heavily margined with silver, and is worth a place for the foliage
alone.

S. A. rosea.—F lowers clear, pure pink, and unspotted, and quite
one of the best.

S. A. vosularis.—F lowers white, spotted crimson. Strong and
vigorous-growing, forming large rosettes, curving slightly inwards.

S. A. sturmiana.—Rosettes not quite as large as the last, and
quite flat, otherwise similar. There are other varieties of S. Azzoon,
but they are only of botanical interest.

S. Allioni (Group I., Mossy).—A very dwarf-growing mossy, with
white flowers.

S. ambigua (Group ITI., Cushion).—Spikes of pale flesh-coloured
flowers. A pretty and rather rare plant.

S. Andrewsti (Group V., Umbrosa).—Supposed to be a hybrid
between S. Geum and S. Azzoon. White, pink-spotted flowers in
loose panicles. The leaves are long and narrow, and more of the
encrusted type, while the flowers are typical of the “‘ Loudon Pride”
species. A very good plant, and of easiest culture.

S. apiculata (Group I1I., Cushion).—Forms dense tufts of bright
green spiny leaves. Flowers pale primrose-yellow, in panicles -
about 4 to 6 inches high. Blooms in March, and is one of the
best and freest-flowering species, of very easy culture. There is a
white form of this, of recent introduction, which is quite as robust,
and a great acquisition.

S. a. Mayliz.—\s a late-flowering form.

S. aquatica (Group I., Mossy).— Rather coarse, fleshy-looking
foliage. Requires a very moist position in sandy peat and loam.
Large white flowers in rather dense heads. A difficult plant to
obtain true to name.

S. aretioides (Group III., Cushion)—¥orms dense, hard, tiny
rosettes of ligulate, silvery-grey, spiny leaves. Flowers golden-
yellow, on short, few-flowered stems. A rare plant, and rather
difficult to cultivate. There is a very lovely form, with pale
primrose-coloured flowers, named S. ~7zmulina, and even more
difficult to grow.

S. aspera (Group IV., Creeping).—Rather large flowers, yellowish-
white, in very loose panicles. Blooms in May and June. Rather
a distinct, but not a very attractive species.

‘S. biflora (Group IV., Creeping).—Likes very gritty, well-drained
soil. Rather loose habit, and its leaves are not so closely packed
as in the native S. offositifolia, to which it is nearly allied. The
flowers large, and of a pale pink to deep red colour, and are borne

350 ROCK GARDENS

two to three on a stem, and not singly, as in others of the type.
It is not of particularly easy culture, but a handsome plant.

S. bryotdes.—Is a glabrous form of above, distinct and stronger.

S. Boryt (Group IIL,, Cushion).—Forms a very compact little
tuft of very small rosettes. It has white flowers very like S. Boydiz
alba. Avyrare plant, but not difficult to grow.

S. Boydit (Group IIl., Cushion).—A hybrid, S. avetioides and
burseriana. Forms dense, spiny tufts of greyish-coloured leaves.
Large yellow flowers. A very slow-growing species, and not easy
to cultivate. S. B. alba is a white form. Very handsome and
vigorous, quite one of the best, and of very easy culture.

S. bronchialis (Group IV., Creeping).—Creamy-white flowers in
panicles, and spiny leaves.

S. Buckland (Group V., Umbrosa).—Rather like a small version
of S. Geum, and of easy culture, and quite pretty.

S. burseriana (Group III, Cushion). — Forms dense little
cushions of grey spiny leaves. Flowers large and solitary. Buds
and stems ruby-red. Blooms in March. One of the most beautiful

of the genus. Though not difficult to cultivate, it is liable to“ go — |

off.” An annual top-dressing of grit and loam, worked into the
crown of the plant, will be found beneficial. Rather a shy bloomer.
There are several forms of this.

S. brunoniana.— Allied to S. sarmentosa. Flowers yellow.
Hardy. A recent introduction which should prove popular.

S. 6. elegans.—Compact. Somewhat smaller than the type.
White flowers flushed with lilac. Easy to grow, and a gem.

S. 6. Gloria.—Of free habit, and has enormous pure white flowers,
sometimes If inches across, on stems 4 to 5 inches high. A glorious
plant, the gem of this species, if not of the group.

S. 6. major.—Has larger flowers, and more freely produced than
the type, and is of more vigorous habit. It is also a very desirable
plant.

S. b. speciosa.—\s freer-flowering, and of more generous habit
than the type. The flowers are borne on very short stems.

S. caesta (Group ITI., Cushion),—Forms very minute rosettes,
each leaf spotted with silvery dots. Large milk-white flowers, one
or two on each slender stem. A rare plant, and difficult to get
true to name. .S. cvustata is sometimes sold for this plant.

S. caespitosa (Group I., Mossy).—A pretty, free-growing species,
with numerous white flowers.

S.c. purpurea is a red variety of the above.

S. Camposti, syn. S. Wallacec (Group I., Mossy).—Very free and
vigorous habit. Large white flowers, borne in the greatest pro-
fusion in May. The best of the white-flowered mossy Saxifrages.

S. cartilaginea (Group I1., Encrusted).—Drooping panicles of

t

<2

SERIE

i a

AEPRMABE MCA LIST ‘Ob PEANTS i391

white flowers in early summer, with rosettes of silvery-grey leaves.
One of the best of this group. Very similar to it are S. catalaunica,
S. carinthiaca, and S. carniolica, which latter is the most distinct.

S. ceratophylla (see S. trifurcata).

S. Churchilli (Group I1., Encrusted).—Forms fine rosettes of
acutely pointed grey leaves, and panicles of white flowers.

S. “ Cherry Trees” (Group [11., Cushion).—A hybrid, S. avetotdes
x burseriana, the same parentage as S. Boydiz has, but is more
robust. The flowers are a pale lemon-yellow, large, and very hand-
some. A most desirable plant.

S. ciliata (Group VI., Megasea).—The fleshy leaves are slightly
hairy. Flowers white. It is an early-flowering species, and should
have a sheltered position.

S. cochlearis (Group Il., Encrusted).—¥Forms rosettes of blue-
grey, silvery spatulate leaves. Slender panicles of white flowers, in
June. A good plant. There are two recognised varieties: a
larger form, major, and a smaller, mznor.

S. cordifolia (Group VI., Megasea).—Has roundish, heart-shaped,
rather fleshy leaves on rather serrated stalks. Heads of large,
clear rose-coloured flowers. Blooms from March to May, and grows
about 12 inches high. There are several varieties.

S. ¢. purpurea.—Has rich crimson flowers and handsome foliage.

Of the garden hybrids, “ 7z//iant” has rosy-purple foliage and
richly coloured foliage ; “ Coralie” has rich rose-coloured flowers
and red stems ; “ Gzant” has bright rose-coloured flowers and large
bronzy leaves ; “ Progress” has rosy-purple flowers.

S. Cotyledon (Group I1., Encrusted).—Bears erect stems I to 2
feet high, much-branched, and pyramidal in form and many-flowered.
The flowers are white and free from dots. A very handsome and
indispensable species, typical of the encrusted group. There are
several forms, but the differences are very slight.

S. C. icelandica.—F lowering spike about 3 feet high. Blooms in
July.

S. C. pyramidalis— Has somewhat larger flowers, dotted with
crimson, and slightly narrower leaves.

S.C. gracilis and minor.—Are rather smaller forms.

S. C. Mepalensis—Has red stems.

S.C. montavoniensis.—Is of dwarfer habit. A handsome plant,
and is reported to dislike lime. This species is considered by some
to be distinct, and not a variety of S. Cotyledon.

S. crassifolia (Group VI., Megasea). — Large, fleshy leaves.
Flowers red, borne in thyrsoid panicles on stems about 12 inches
high. Handsome. There is a white form, a/éa, and a dwarfer,
nana. Also a variegated form, aureo-marginata, with a gold edge
to the leaves.

352 ROCK GARDENS

S. C. cristata (see S. crustata).

S. crustata (Group Il., Encrusted).—Compact silvery rosettes
from which rise erect panicles of white flowers. S. crustata and
S. pectinata are so nearly allied as to be almost indistinguishable.

S. cunetfolia (Group V., Umbrosa).—Like a small version of —

“ London Pride,” with a yellow mark at the base of each white petal.
S. afennina is a variety of this species.

S. Cymbalaria.—A very pretty little annual, with bright green,
rather fleshy-looking leaves and citron-yellow flowers. Attractive,
but only an annual. It sows itself freely, but never encroaches.

S. decipiens (Group I., Mossy).—Very similar to S. hypnotdes, but
the foliage is rather hairy. There is a very fine form of quite
recent introduction, named S. decipiens hybrida grandiflora, with
foliage larger than the type, and of a brilliant pink colour. Other
forms are S. Airta, S. Sternbergiz, and a red form, S. atropurpurea.

S. diapensiotdes (Group I1Tl., Cushion).—Forms very hard, dense
tufts of very small, tight rosettes, of a blue-grey colour, picked out
with silver. Flowers large and white, three to four in terminal heads
on short stems, about 3 inches high. Blooms in March and April.
This species likes plenty of lime. One of the very best and most
beautiful of Saxifrages, and not difficult to cultivate.

S. diverstfolia.—Very similar to S. Hirculus, and likes a moist
spot. Flowers yellow, obscurely spotted, borne in branched, flat
heads. Of moderately easy culture, but a rare species.

S. “Dr Ramsey” (Group Il., Encrusted)—Is a hybrid, S.
macnabianax S. lantoscana superba.—lIt has pure white flowers,
with a few red spots, and is handsome.

S. Elizabethae (Group ITl., Cushion).—F orms dense tufts of dark
green spiny leaves. Flowers large canary-yellow, three or four to
each head. Of the easiest culture, and one of the best of the genus.

S. Engleri (Group I1., Encrusted).—A hybrid, S. Azzoonx S.
cunetfolia. Narrow, dark green leaves, changing to golden-yellow
in the winter. Margins slightly crustaceous. Flowers white and
small. Rather a shy bloomer.

S. exarata(Group I., Mossy).—Leaves wedge-shaped, sessile, and
three-lobed. Flowers white, four to six ina panicle. Grows about
6 inches high, and blooms in June and July.

S. Faldonside (Group ITT., Cushion).—A hybrid of S. Boydiz.
Compact tufts of blue-grey, spiny leaves. Flowers round and very
large and of a lovely yellow colour. A most exquisite plant, though
reputed not very robust. It blooms in March, but not very freely.

S. Ferdinandi Coburgi (Group IIl., Cushion).—Forms a close
tuft of spiny, blue-grey leaves, and heads of small, deep yellow
flowers. A new species, pretty, easy to cultivate in limestone chips.
It blooms in March, and only grows a couple of inches high.

a a -

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 353

S. Fergzusont (Group I., Mossy).—Practically a variety of S. Rhez.
A good red “ mossy,” and about the earliest of that group to flower.
Blooms in March.

S. florulenta (Group I1., Encrusted).—Requires a shady posi-
tion in a well-drained crevice in vegetable soil. Forms large
rosettes, 5 to 7 inches across, of dark green spiny leaves, without
a trace of the silver encrustation. Flowers pale lilac, in thrysoid
panicles. A very slow-growing species, taking several years to
mature the rosettes, from which the flower-spike rises. After
flowering the plant dies. A very difficult plant to grow.

S. Fortune?.—Likes a partial shady position in gritty, well-
drained loam. Leaves reniform, cordate, dark green, and glossy.
White flowers in erect, many-flowered panicles. Blooms in October.
A pretty and useful plant on account of its late-flowering character.

S. Frederici-Augusti (Group III, Cushion).—¥orms bluish,
rounded rosettes. Flowers small and pink, with purple-red calyces
borne in spicate heads ; the whole flower-spike covered with a dense
purplish-rose-coloured fur. A rare plant, rather like S. Griesbachi.

S. Geum (Group V., Umbrosa).—A species very near to S. wmbrosa,
and a native, growing freely in Killarney.

S. G. cochlearts.—Is a dwarf variety.

S. granulata.—Rather a distinct deciduous species, forming little
bulbs. Of vigorous growth, and spreading fairly quickly. It likesa
partially shaded position in gritty soil. Leaves reniform. Flowers
large and pure white, borne in heads on branching stems about 12
inches high. A pretty and easily grown plant. There is also a
double form which is very attractive.

S. Griesbaché (Group II1., Cushion).—Forms compact rosettes,
glaucous blue leaves, with a silvery margin, from which rise in
February spikes of inconspicuous flowers, with crimson bracts.
The rosette from which the spike rises dies after flowering, but side
rosettes are formed. A distinctive plant, rather like S. /vedezzci-
Augusti. It is not difficult to cultivate.

S. guthertana (Group V., Umbrosa).—Very nearly allied to S.
Geum, and has heads of white flowers. The variety S. ¢. vartegata
has soft pink flowers, with a broad stripe of yellow on its glaucous
leaves.

S. Hirculus.—Requires a damp position in peaty soil. It is of
stoloniferous habit, with dark green leaves. Very beautiful, large,
bright yellow flowers in July. It is not an easy plant to grow, and
ashy bloomer. There is a form, S. 47. major, which is finer, more
vigorous, and blooms more freely.

S. Hostit (Group IT., Encrusted),—Rosettes of narrow, dark grey-
green leaves, and numerous spikes of white flowers, spotted purple.
There are two varieties, S. 7. altissima and S. H. elatior, both good.

23

354 ROCK GARDENS

S. hypnoides (Group I., Mossy).—The common native Saxifrage,
with white flowers, known as Dovedale Moss, and of the easiest
culture. Itis typical of this group. There is amore compact form,
S. h. densa, and a variegated form, S. 4. variegata, and another
variety known as S. Whitlavit.

S. juniperina (Group III,, Cushion).—Forms compact tufts of
dark green, spiny leaves. Yellow flowers, rather like S. sazcfa, but
produced rather earlier. A vigorous plant, but a very shy bloomer.

S. Kestonit (see S. Sardica).

S. kolenatiana (Group II., Encrusted).—Rather like S. Azzoon,
but with pink flowers. A very attractive species, nearly allied to
S. cartilaginea. There is a larger form, major.

S. Kotschyt (Group ITT., Cushion).—F orms bluish-green, densely
tufted rosettes, with bright yellow flowers. A pretty and good plant.

S. la graveana (Group II., Encrusted).—A very compact species
of S. Azzoon, for a hot crevice. This species appears in catalogues
under the name S. La Gave Dauphne.

S. latina (Group IV., Creeping).—Very similar to S. oppositifolia.
Flowers the same, but the creeping stems are more erect. A new
introduction. Early flowering and very desirable.

S. Leichtlini (Group VI., Megasea).—Grows about 12 inches
high. Leaves large and crimson-coloured. Flowers rose-coloured.
A good species on account of its handsome foliage.

S. lilacina (Group I1I., Cushion).—Makes tufts of very small,
hard, dense rosettes. Large, rich lilac-blue, solitary flowers on stems
about I inch high. It likes a partially shaded position. Of easy
culture and vigorous habit, this new species is likely to prove a
great acquisition to this large genus.

S. lingulata (Group II., Encrusted).—Makes rather heaped-up
tufts of blue-grey leaves, of unequal length. White flowers, in large,
very branching panicles. A very variable species. A most attrac-
tive and very beautiful plant, somewhat like a small S. Cotyledon.

S. 1. lantoscana.—A beautiful variety of S. /éngulata, with heads
of white flowers in arching panicles. There is even a better form,
S. 1. Ll. superba.

S. longifolia (Group II., Encrusted).—The finest of all the silver
Saxifrages, making enormous rosettes, several inches across, of
blue-grey leaves edged with silver. White flowers in large, dense,
pyramidal panicles. The true S. Longéfolia may be known by its
never making side rosettes. It takes a couple of years to come to
maturity, and when it flowers the plant dies, but produces seed
very freely. Flowers in June and July.

S. macnabiana (Group I1., Encrusted).—Forms large, rounded
rosettes of narrow, rather erect leaves. Flowers creamy-white,
lightly spotted. It is a vigorous and rapid grower, and a very

ALPHABETICAL) LIST OF PLANTS 355

beautiful and desirable plant. It is a hybrid, S. Cotyledon and S.
Hlostiz. The true plant is not easy to obtain.

S. marginata (Group Ill. Cushion). — Forms small, dense
rosettes of oblong leaves, with the margins dotted with lime encrusta-
tions. White flowers, borne in rather compact heads.

S. maweana (Group I., Mossy).—Very similar to S. Camfosiz,
but of more compact habit. It requires a hot, sunny position. It is
a good plant, but not as fine as its prototype.

S. media (Group TIII., Cushion).— Rather similar to S.
Griesbachi, but the flowers are borne in racemes instead of spikes ;
the small flowers are enclosed in purplish calyces. Of vigorous
habit and easy cultivation.

S. minima (Group II., Encrusted).—A small and attractive
silver Saxifrage of the Azzoon type.

S. montavoniensis (see S. Cotyledon).

S. muscotdes (Group I., Mossy).—The type of the red-flowered
mossy Saxifrages, from which endless varieties have been raised.
They are amongst the most desirable species of Saxifrage. As the
colour of the flowers quickly fades in sun, a partially shaded position
is best. The following are some of the best varieties :—

S. m. “ Bakeri.”—Dwarf habit and red flowers.

S. m. atro-purpurea.—Bright rose-coloured flowers, deeper than
the type.

S. m. “ Bickham’s Glory.”—Similar to Gudtldford Seedling, but
rather earlier flowering.

S. m. Clibranit.—Bright crimson flowers, very handsome.

S. m. Gloria.—Similar to S. decifens hybrida, gd. fi. Vigorous
habit, with very fine, large crimson flowers. Quite new, and likely
to prove a great acquisition.

S. m. Guildford Seedling.—Deep crimson flowers. One of the
best.

S. m.‘ Miss Willmot.”—Very fine creamy-white flowers.

S. m. Rhei.—Fine rose-coloured flowers. Of larger habit than
the type.

S.m. R. superba.—A deeper-coloured and larger form of the above.

S. m. “R. W. Hoster.’—Deep crimson flowers, changing to plum
colour. A very handsome and fine variety.

S. m. sanguinea superba.—Very handsome new crimson variety,
quite one of the best.

S. nepalensis (see S. Cotyledon).

S. odontophylla (Group VI., Megasea).—Has handsome, rather
heart-shaped leaves, and panicles of pink flowers.

S. oppositifolia (Group IV., Creeping).—Very small, dark green,
opposite leaves on trailing stems. Flowers very large and of a
purplish-crimson colour, and borne in the greatest profusion in the

356 ROCK GARDENS

beginning of March. If planted in anything of rich soil, it will be

liable to run to leaf too much and not flower well. It is a very —

handsome plant, of which there are several forms, which, except in

name, differ but slightly. They are coccinea, splendens, major, ~
W. A. Clark, and latina, which has more compact-shaped flowers
of a rosy-purple colour. There is also a white form which has —
flowers smaller than the type. j

S. Paulinae (Group IIl., Cushion).—Rather similar to S. Boydit, —
but far more vigorous, and has larger flowers, of a lovely pure
lemon-yellow, freely borne. One of the gems of the genus.

S. pectinata (see S. crustata).
S. peltata (Group VI., Megasea).—To see this handsome Saxifrage
at its best, it should be planted in rich, very moist soil, such as the ~
edge of astream. It has large fleshy leaves, sometimes 15 to 18 ©
inches across, and heads of pale pink flowers on stems 2 to 3 feet ©
high. A very fine plant for a marshy spot.

S.“ Primrose Bee” (Group ITT., Cushion).—This hybrid, raised —
by Bees, Limited, may be described as a soft, primrose-coloured ~
form of P. marginata.

S. primuloides (Group V., Umbrosa).— Forms dark green ~
rosettes, and loose racemes of bright carmine-rose-coloured flowers.
Very pretty, and of easiest culture. )

S. purpurascens (Group VI., Megasea). — Large, handsome, ~
glabrous, obovate leaves. Flowers purple, in June.

S. pyramidalis (see Cotyledon).

S. retusa (Group IV., Creeping).—Like a very small, smooth-

leaved S. offositifolia. It has lovely ruby-red flowers, in May. A _

shy bloomer, and of slow growth. A very attractive plant.

S. vivularis.—Requires a very moist position. It has largewhite

flowers, one or two on each stalk. Stems decumbent and rooting. _
A native. An attractive plant for a wet spot. a

S. vocheliana (Group ITI., Cushion)—¥orms a compact tuft of ~
small rosettes of leaves, white at the edges, with distinct impressed
dots. Rather flat heads of white flowers in April. A very good
plant, and of easy culture, and blooms freely.

S. rotundifolia (Group VI., Megasea).—Rich soil in a half-shady
position. Large, roundish, fleshy leaves. Flowers white, spotted
with pink, in May and June. A deciduous plant for the bog garden.

S. rudolphiana (Group IV., Creeping).—Very like S. retusa, but
of more compact habit. It is a rare species and difficult to cultivate.

S. Salomoni (Group ILl., Cushion).—Makes tufts of spiny grey
leaves. Pure white flowers, one to three on each stem. Blooms in
early spring. Itis a garden hybrid, S. durseriana x S. rocheliana,
and is of much beauty and value, and of easy culture.

S. sarmentosa (“ Mother of Thousands”).—This species, though

ALPHAGETICAL LIST ‘OF: PLANTS: 359

only considered half hardy, can in favoured climates be grown out of
doors, provided it is planted in a sheltered position, in full sun,
fairly protected from the winter rains. It spreads by means of
creeping runners. It has hairy, heart-shaped leaves, which are red
beneath. Flowers white, the two inner petals having a yellow spot,
and the central one scarlet spots at the base. Of easy cultivation.

S. sancta (Group ITT., Cushion).—Forms large, dense cushions
of bright green spiny leaves. Small yellow flowers, borne in rather
dense heads, on stems about 2 inches long. Blooms in early
spring. One of the best known Saxifrages, and very like S.
Juniperina. Itis of the easiest culture, but is not a profuse flowerer.

S. scardica (Group ITl., Cushion).—Rather pointed, silvery-grey
leaves in hard rosettes. Flowers white, and borne four to six in
flattish heads, on stems about 2 inches high. Bloomsin March. Not
difficult to cultivate, and fairly vigorous. A very desirable plant, but
difficult to get true. S. Kes¢oniz is very nearly allied, but blooms
somewhat earlier.

S. serratifolia (Group V., Umbrosa).—Very similar to S. Geum,
but with long and very serrated leaves.

S. speciosa (Group II., Encrusted).—A hybrid of S. longtfolia.
It forms very compact tufts of handsome dark green silvery leaves.
Flowers white, and borne in rather dense heads on short stems.
A pretty and attractive plant.

S. splendens.—Is also another hybrid, S. longifolia x Cotyledon.
It has handsome rosettes of silver-margined leaves, but the flowers
are of rather an ugly shade, of a greenish-white colour,

S. sguarrosa (Group I11., Cushion).—Rather similar to S. caesia.
It forms tiny tufts of rosettes of stiff little green leaves very minutely
marked with silvery dots. Flowers pure white, and larger than
S. caesta, and borne two to three on slender stems. Blooms in
June.

S. Stracheyt (Group VI., Megasea).—Only grows about 6 inches
high, with pretty bluish-pink-coloured flowers. There is also a
pretty white variety.

S. stellaris—A small-habited native species, for a very wet spot
in peat, sand, and sphagnum moss. Its flowers are white, spotted
crimson, and borne in feathery heads like a small “ London Pride.”

S. Stribnryi (Group III, Cushion).—Very similar to S. Fredericé-
Augusti, but flowers borne in a flat head instead of a loose spike.
A vigorous and attractive plant of quite recent introduction.

S. taygetea (Group VI., Umbrosa).—Very similar to S. rotundi-
folia, of which it was at one time considered only a variety.

S. thessalica (Group ITl., Cushion).— Forms flat rosettes of
narrow, pale blue-grey leaves, rather thorny in appearance. Flowers
and bracts deep crimson, and spike red. A very distinct plant,

358 ROCK GARDENS

more like S. Frederici-Augusti than any other, but there is some
confusion about it. It is a rare species. Of vigorous habit.

S. tombeanensis (Group I1l., Cushion).—Very like S. diapen-
stoides, but not as good. Its rosettes are rather more spiny, and
leaves devoid of silver markings. Flowers white.

S. trifurcata (Group I., Mossy).—Has rather distinctive foliage,
its leaves being rather like stags’ horns. It is of vigorous growth,
and quickly makes large tufts. The panicles of flowers, which
are white and of a good size, are borne on slender stems about
6 inches high, and in such profusion as to hide the plant. Of the
easiest culture, and quite one of the best of the mossy Saxifrages.
S. ceratophylla is a variety of this species.

S. triternata (Group IT., Encrusted).—Of the Azzoon type, form-
ing small rosettes, and bearing heads of lovely rose-pink flowers.

S. umbrosa, “London Pride.”—This well-known Saxifrage needs
no description. It is quite indifferent to position, growing well
under trees, and making a fine show in summer, with its airy spikes
of white flowers dotted with crimson.

S. valdensis (Group II, Encrusted).—So very closely allied to
S. cochlearts that it may be considered but a small variety of it.
A very attractive plant, of easy culture, and will do in a position not
fully exposed to the sun.

S. Vandellit (Group I1I., Cushion).—¥ orms very hard, dense tufts
of spiny grey leaves, quite devoid of any trace of silvery markings.
The flowers are pure white, and borne several on a head on stems
3 to 4 inches high. It is doubtful if this species likes lime.

S. Wallacei (see S. Camposiz).

S. Wulfeniana (Group IV., Creefing).—Very akin to, if not a
variety of, S. retusa.

S. Zimmeteri.—A hybrid between S. Azzoon and S. cunetfolia.
Small rosettes of dark glossy green leaves, and white flowers in
loose clusters.

The above fairly represent the best species.

Scapiosa (DIPsACEAE), Scabious

A genus of the Compositae order, of little value for the rock
garden, being mostly too coarse-growing. The following are the
best species :—

S. alpina (see Cephalaria alpina).

S. caucasica.—Grows about 12 inches high, and has flower-heads
of a pale blue colour. Blooms from June to August. It is of the
easiest culture in any soil.

S. pterocephala.—Forms mounds, 4 to 6 inches high, of grey-green
foliage. Flowers pale purple, freely produced. A very pretty
species, of easy culture in any light soil.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PALNTS 359

S. Webbiana.—Rather hoary foliage, and creamy-white heads of
flowers in July. Grows about 6 inches high. Division and seed.

SCHIZOCODON SOLDANELLOIDES (DIAPENSIACEAE)

Half-sunny position in well-drained, rather moist peat, loam, and
sand. Forms rosettes of leathery-looking leaves, very similar to
Galax aphylla. The flowers are bell-shaped, fringed, and of a deep
rose colour in the centre, shading to white; they are pendulous,
and borne in heads of six to eight. Blooms in April. A species
from Japan, but of difficult cultivation, and as yet a rare plant. It
is very nearly allied to the Shortias.

ScitLa (LILIACEAE), Squill Bluebell

A genus of pretty bulbous plants, early-flowering, and suitable
for growing through dwarf rock plants. They are of easy culture
in ordinary light soil. They should be planted in the autumn.
They die down after flowering. Increased by division. The
following is a selection of the most suitable :—

S. amoena.—Leaves about 9 inches long. Flowers rich indigo-
blue, with conspicuous yellow ovaries. Blooms in March.

S. btfolia.— Dark blue flowers, freely produced as early as
February. And its varieties.

S. zttalica—Small pale blue flowers, in spreading racemes.
Flowers in May. Should have a sheltered spot. Not quite so
hardy as some of the other species.

S. stbtrvica.— Deep blue flowers, very freely produced. A
vigorous plant of much beauty, blooming in April. A well-known
plant. Amongst other species is a/da, very attractive. A selection
should be made from some bulb list.

SCUTELLARIA (LABIATAE), Skull Cap

Of this numerous genus, the following are suitable species for
the rock garden. They are all of easy culture, in ordinary soil in
a sunny position. They are readily increased by cuttings or
division.

S. alpina.—Of procumbent and spreading habit, growing 9 to
12 inches high. Flowers purple, with the lower lip yellow. Very
freely produced in August. A pretty plant, vigorous, but not too
rampant.

S. macrantha.—Procumbent habit. Grows 12 to 18 inches high.
Flowers purplish-blue, and very freely produced in August. A
useful plant for associating with the bolder-growing species.

360 ROCK GARDENS

S. indica.—Procumbent habit. Blue flowers, very freely pro-
duced. Dwarf-growing and pretty.

SEDUM (CRASSULACEAE), Stonecrop

Dwarf, spreading, succulent-looking plants, often confused with
Saxifrages, though bearing no resemblance to them. They are all
of the easiest culture, some species, in fact, becoming almost a
weed. They are useful for covering waste spots, and are typical
rock plants, but must be kept within bounds. They are all very
readily increased by division. The following are some of the best
kinds :—

S. acre.—The common British species, which will grow anywhere,
and in summer looks pretty, covered with its bright yellow flowers.
There are several varieties of it: S. a. aurea and vartegatum.

S. anglicum.—A native species, very like the last, but bearing
rosy-coloured flowers in June. Very floriferous.

S. brevifolium.—The leaves are covered with a_ silvery-rose
powder. Flowers pinky-white. Not very hardy, so requires rather
a sheltered position. Very pretty.

S. dasyphyllum.—Very similar to the last, and is in summer a
sheet of soft, pink-coloured flowers. One ofthe best. Not supposed
to be very hardy, though with me it grows like a weed, in any
position, and receives no attention.

S. Ewersiz.—Of somewhat trailing habit, with glaucous leaves,
evergreen. Flowers pink or pale violet. A very good species, and
quite hardy. Its variety, zurkestanicum, has rose-coloured flowers,
and is even better.

S. kamtschaticum.—Rather distinct, of more erect habit, with
broader leaves than most of the type. Flowers a deep orange
colour. Quite hardy, and of easy culture. It is quite one of the
handsomest of the genus. There is a variety which has very pretty
leaves, variegated, with orange-coloured markings.

S. primuloides—A distinct and attractive new species from
China. White flowers rather like Lily-of-the-valley.

S. pulchellum.—Of trailing, dwarf habit. Flowers bright red or
purplish, arranged in branching cymes. A very handsome ever-
green species. Quite hardy.

S. roseum (syn. S. Rhodiola).—A taller-growing species, with erect
stems 8 to 12 inches high. Reddish-purple flowers in flat terminal
heads. Handsome.

S. spathulifolium.—\s of creeping habit. Makes rather dense
rosettes of fleshy, glaucous leaves ; terminal, many-branch heads
of bright yellow flowers in profusion in July. One of the best.

S. spectabile——This well-known species grows about 18 inches

]
;
:

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 361

high, with large, fleshy, yellowish-green leaves, and flat, terminal
heads of rosy-pink flowers in August and September. There is also
a white form.

S. spurium.—Trailing species, with flat heads of handsome pink
or white flowers. There is an even better form, a¢rosanguineum,
which has deep rosy-red flowers. Both are very free-flowering and
handsome.

S. ¢estaceum.—Has rather waxy-looking white flowers, borne in
flattish heads. One of the best.

The above are a few of the best and most distinctive.

SEMPERVIVUM (CRASSULACEAE), House Leek

A genus belonging to the same order as the last. There are over
a hundred species, but many of them are either unsuitable or not
hardy. All of the easiest culture in any hot spot and in light soil.
They are most useful for walls, growing readily in any odd crevice.
They are readily increased by division of the offshoots.

S. avrachnotdeum (Cobweb House Leek).—A most distinctive
species, the top of the rosettes being covered with innumerable fine
threads, stretching from point to point, looking exactly like a spider’s
web, from which it gets its popular name of “‘ Cobweb House Leek.”
Spikes of handsome rose-coloured flowers appear in the summer.
It is a most charming and attractive plant, and should be grown in
large patches in some dry and hot spot.

S. a. Laggert.—Is a larger form of the above.

S. ciliatum.—The margins of the leaves are fringed with trans-
parent, hair-like bodies. Flowers, in close, flat heads, are a good
yellow colour. A hot and dry spot.

S. doellianum.—Rosettes rather hairy, with tips connected by
a few cobwebby threads. Flat heads of bright red flowers, in dense
panicles 4 to 6 inches high.

S. rubicundum.—The leaves are bright orange, tipped with
green ; very distinct.

S. Zrista—Red-brown rosettes and bright red flowers. Pretty.

Other varieties are: S. asvernense, S. Tectorum, S. calcareum,
S. globiferum, S. piliferum, and many others.

SENEcIO (ComposiraE), Grounsel, Ragweed

A large genus of over one thousand species, but only a few are
suitable, being mostly too coarse-growing. They are all of easy
culture in any loamy soil, and readily increased by seed, division, or
cuttings. The following are a selection of the best :—

S. aurantiacus (syn. Cineraria aurantiacus).—Sunny, sheltered

362 | ROCK GARDENS

position in light sandy soil. Handsome silvery foliage, and flat
heads of orange-coloured flowers. A handsome plant, and not of
too vigorous a habit, and worthy of a choice spot.

S. clivorum.—A large-growing, handsome plant for the bog or
wild garden, in deep, rich soil. It grows as high as 6 feet, but
does not spread too much. The flowers are large and of a deep
orange colour, and borne in many-flowered heads.

S. Doronicum.—Has blue-grey leaves, white beneath. Flowers
deep orange-coloured, and produced in May. A handsome plant.

S. incanus.—Bright silvery-coloured leaves and large, flat heads
of yellow flowers. Dwarf-habited plant, only growing from 3 to
6 inches high. Pretty.

S. japonicus (syn. Ligularia japonica).— Leaves round and
deeply incised. Heads of yellow flowers on stems 3 feet high. A
good plant for the bog.

S. pulcher.—Glaucous, blue-grey leaves. Flowers purple, with
a yellow disc, borne on branched stems about 18 inches high. A
handsome plant, blooming in the late autumn.

SHORTIA (DIAPENSIACEAE)

Very attractive plants for a moist, peaty spot.

S. galacifolia.—Partially shaded position in some cool, rather
damp spot, in peat, loam, and leaf-mould, with sand added. The
best sort of leaf-mould to use is that got in oak plantations. The
soil must be free from lime. Of compact habit, making a low
mound of leathery leaves, which assume a brilliant tint in autumn.
The flowers are ivory-white and crimped at the edges, anthers
lemon-coloured, buds and stems ruby-red. The flowers are solitary
and bloom in April. Of fairly easy cultivation, and quite hardy.
A most lovely plant, and worthy of no little attention.

S. uniflora. — The cultivation and position the same as for
S. galacifolia. It forms a nearly prostrate tuft of leathery leaves
of a crimson colour. The flowers, borne on 3-inch stems, are
rather similar in form to S. galactfolia, but somewhat larger, and
of a pink tinge. Not easy to cultivate, it being difficult to establish.
An exquisite plant.

SILENE (CARYOPHYLLACEAE), Catchfly

A genus giving some very attractive plants for the rock garden,
and mostly of fairly easy culture.

S. acaulis (Cushion Pink).—Open, sunny position in light, gritty,
sandy soil. It forms very compact little mats, about 1 inch high,
of small, rather spiny little leaves Bright rosy-pink flowers in

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 363

summer. Easy to cultivate, but rather a shy bloomer. It is an
attractive and indispensable plant. There are several varieties:
“ Bernarti,’ which has flowers much larger than the type and
more freely borne ; 77. f/., a double form ; and adda, a white.

S. alfestris.—A position in full sun, but where its roots can get
into cool, rather moist soil. It is of dwarf, compact habit, growing
only 4 to 6 inches high. Lovely little pure white flowers, delicately
notched at the edges. It blooms freely in the summer. It is of
easy culture and quite hardy. A most lovely and altogether indis-
pensable plant. Increased by seed or division.

S. californica.—Sunny position in light gritty soil. Of rather
prostrate habit. Deeply cut brilliant orange-scarlet flowers.

S. Elizabethae—An open, sunny position in very well-drained,
sandy soil. Rather narrow leaves, slightly viscid. Flowers likea
diminutive Clarkia, and of a bright rosy colour, which are quite
freely produced in July. Increased by seed or division.

S. Hookeri.—Sunny position in light gritty loam. Large salmon-
pink flowers.

S. maritima (Sea Campion).—A native plant growing in shingle
on the seashore. It forms trailing mats of glaucous foliage, and
solitary white flowers with purple, inflated calyces. Blooms in June.
Useful for draping over some rock. It is of easiest culture, but
of not very great attraction. There is a double form rather better
than the type, and worthy of a place in the less choice parts.

S. pumilo.—Light gritty soil in a sunny position. Very dwarf-
growing, making dense little tufts of shining green leaves about
1% inches high. Bright rose-coloured flowers in the summer. A
pretty plant, rather uncertain in cultivation.

S. pustila.—Light sandy soil in sun. Forms close tufts of bright
green foliage. White starry flowers in spring.

S. Schafta.—Any position in light sandy soil. Forms neat tufts
4 to6inches high. Flowers purplish-rose, in the greatest profusion
from July to September. Of the easiest culture, and quite a useful
plant on account of its late flowering, though the colour of the
flowers is not of a particularly pleasing shade. Readily increased
by seed or division.

S. virginica (Fire Pink).—Sunny position in light loam. Grows
from I to 2 feet high, and of rather straggling habit. Flowers large,
nearly 2 inches across, and of a brilliant scarlet colour. A very
handsome plant for association with the taller-growing plants.
Readily increased by seed or division.

SKIMMIA (RUTACEAE)

Dwarf-growing evergreen shrubs, of which S. japonica and
S. Fortunet are the most suitable.

364 ROCK GARDENS

SOLDANELLA (PRIMULACEAE)

Charming little true alpine plants, found on the snowline. There
are several species in cultivation. They have rather a bad reputa-
tion as to culture, but are not really difficult if a few points are
observed. They like moisture in summer, but require to be kept
dry during the winter. A partially shady position, or, in a dry
climate, the edge of the bog garden, suits them. The soil should be
composed of peat, leaf-mould, loam, and alittle sand. Stones should
be placed about the plant to prevent evaporation, and during dry
weather, occasional copious waterings. A pane of glass should be
placed over the plants in October till the flowering season, which
is very beneficial in producing flowers. They can be increased by
seed or division.

S. al~ina.—Roundish leathery leaves, and beautiful fimbriated,
pendulous, bell-shaped flowers, of a lovely shade of blue. These are
borne two to four on each stem, which rises about 3 inches high.
Blooms in April. This is quite one of the best of the genus.
There are several varieties, but differing little from the type. S. ad.
albaisa whiteform. |S. al. Zyrolaefoliais a good form of S. alpina.

S. minima.—Dwarfer form, with solitary flowers of a lovely
suffused lilac colour, and the interior striped with purple, which
are borne on 2-inch stems. A lovely little plant.

S. montana.—Leaves almost round. Two to four purple, deeply
cut, and pendulous flowers are borne on each stem, about 4 inches
high. A very lovely plant, blooming in April.

S. pustlla.—F lowers blue, with margins notched. One or two
flowers borne on each stem, 2 to 3 inches high. There is also a
white form of this. It is an easy plant to cultivate, and very attrac-
tive. There is some confusion as to the name of this species.
There are also several hybrids, but not in general cultivation.

SPHAERALCEA MUNROANUM (see MaLvaSTRUM MUNROANUM

SPIGELIA MARILANDICA (LOGANIACEAE)

Deep, moist, sandy peat in partial shade. Of erect habit, with
acute sessile leaves. Flowers 13 inches long, red outside, and
yellow within, and borne six to twelve in a terminal spike on stems
about 12 to 15 inches high. A very desirable plant for the bog
garden, and not of difficult culture.

SPIRAEA (ROSACEAE)

A large genus of handsome shrubs, of which a few of the dwarfer
kinds are very suitable for associating with other shrubs in the rock
garden. The following are a selection, blooming in summer :—

SPREE TO

|

arcane

Sa

Cage eS

ee ee

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 365

S. Bumalda.—Has heads of pink flowers.

S. bullata.—A dwarf shrub, only growing 12 to 18 inches high,
with deep pink flowers.

S. decumbens.—A dwarf, trailing shrub, with flat terminal heads of
white flowers. One of the best.

S. caespitosa.—Grows only 6 inches high, and produces white
flowers in dense heads.

S. pectinata.—Of trailing habit. Flowers creamy-white, in woolly
racemes. Grows about 6 inches high, and is very pretty.

For the bog garden the following will be found very desirable :—

S. Aruncus.—With creamy-white plumes from 4 to 6 feet high.

S. astilboides—Like S. Aruncus, but only growing about 2 feet
high.

S. gigantea (syn. S. camtschatica).—Large, flat heads of white,
sweetly scented flowers, on stems from 4 to Io feet high.

S. Balmata.—-Plumes of soft, bright rose-coloured flowers. Grows
about 2 to 3 feet high. Blooms from June to August.

S. venusta (syn. S. lobata).—Feathery heads of rosy-pink flowers,
growing from 3 to 8 feet high, and blooming in August.

STATICE (PLUMBAGINACEAE), Sea Lavender

Pretty and useful plants for a sunny position in sandy soil. They
are all of easy culture. The dwarfer and best kinds are :—

S. bellidifolia (syn. S. casfia).—Lavender-coloured flowers on
branching stems. Blooms from August to September.

S. tartarica.—Tufted habit and glabrous leaves. Grows about
12 inches high. Flowers ruby-red, in many-branched heads.
Blooms in June and July.

S. ¢. angustifolia (syn. S. tncana).—Has narrow leaves, and
grows about the same height.

Other species suitable for the rock garden are—S. minuta,
S. eximia, S. sinuata.

STERNBERGIA (AMARYLLIDACEAE), Winter Daffodil

A genus of bulbous plants of value because of their flowering in
autumn. They require a sunny position in light sandy soil.

S. colchicifiora.—F lowers erect and nearly 14 inches long, and of
a pale sulphur yellow. Very fragrant.

S. fistheriana.—Similar to S. /utea, but flowering in the spring.

S. lutea.—Has leaves about 12 inches long and 4 inch broad.
Flowers yellow.

S. macrantha.—-Bright yellow flowers. Leaves blunt and rather
glaucous.

366 ROCK GARDENS

STYLOPHORUM DIPHYLLUM (PAPAVERACEAE)

Greyish foliage and large yellow flowers. Blooms in June. Is
of easy culture, and grows about 12 to 18 inches high.

SYMPHYANDRA (CAMPANULACEAE)

A small genus belonging to the Campanula order. They require
well-drained, rich, sandy loam and leaf-mould.

S. pendula.—lIs of trailing, pendulous habit. Flowers large and
funnel-shaped, and of a transparent creamy-white. Blooms in
August. Hardy, and of easy culture. A very choice plant for a
shady position to hang over some rock. Slugs are very fond of it.
Division or seed.

S. Wanneri.—Of erect habit, growing about 12 inches high.
Blue funnel-shaped flowers, freely produced, on branching racemes.
Blooms in the summer. Of easy culture, and likes a half-shady
position.

TANAKAEA RADICANS

Likes a north aspect in peaty soil. It has rosettes of leathery,
lanceolate leaves. Flowers white and small, in feathery spikes,
rather like a Spiraea. Blooms in early spring. A recent introduc-
tion from Japan.

TEucRIUM (LABIATAE), Germander

Few species of this genus are worth growing. They are all of
easy culture in any light soil. Increased by seed or division.

T. Chamaedrys.—A good wall plant. Rosy-purple flowers in
whorls.

T. Marum (Cat Thyme).—Rosy-lilac flowers in pairs at axils of
upper leaves.

T. pyrenaicum.—Purple and white flowers in whorls. Prostrate
habit, growing only about 4 inches high. Quite a pretty little
plant for an odd corner, and the best of the genus.

T. Polium.—Silvery foliage. Flowers white, yellowish, or purple,
in whorls.

THALICTRUM (RANUNCULACEAE) Meadow Rue

Of this genus the following are the most suitable for the rock
garden. They can be increased by seed or division.

T. alpinum.—Cool, peaty corner. Grows 8 to Io inches high.
Flowers purplish, in drooping racemes.

T. anemonotdes.—Light, well-drained soil in a sheltered corner.
Grows 6 inches high. Foliage like a maiden-hair fern. Flowers

la aaa

Rp

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 367

white, nearly an inch across, likean Anemone. Hardy, and of fairly
easy culture. A very choice plant for a cool, moist corner. There
is a double form with flowers smaller than the type.

T. aguilegifolium.—A very good plant for the bog garden.
Handsome, fern-like foliage. Flowers white, and borne in corym-
bose panicles on stems about 3 feet high. Blooms from May
to July.

7. minus.—Any soil and in any position. Very pretty, finely cut
leaves. Loose panicles of yellowish flowers. A native, and of
the easiest culture. There are a number of varieties.

T. tuberosum.—Deep, peaty soil. Fern-like foliage, and cream-
coloured flowers in profusion in June. Quite hardy, and of easy
culture. A pretty plant.

Tuymus (LaBiaTAE), Thyme

Of this genus there are some very attractive species, mostly of
creeping habit. They are all of easy culture in any light, well-
drained soil. Propagated by seed or division.

T. azoricus.—A small shrubby plant, with purple flowers in July.
Grows about 6 inches high.

T. Serpyllum (“Wild Thyme”).—The native species, making a
dense carpet of its fragrant, small, dark green leaves, and covered
in summer with rosy-crimson flowers. From this plant several
garden hybrids have been raised, which are pretty and very choice
for the rock garden, to carpet a bank or fall over a stone.

T. S. alva.—ls a lovely, pure white form.

T. S. atropurpureus.—Dark purple flowers in the greatest pro-
fusion. A most attractive plant.

T. S. lanuginosus.—A woclly-leaved form, with rosy-purple
flowers.

Other forms are 7. S. coccineus; and T. S. rotundifolius, which
has rounded leaves and is more floriferous than the type.

TIARELLA (SAXIFRAGACEAE)

Attractive plants for shady position.

T. cordifolia (“Foam Flower”).—Forms a compact tuft, from
which are sent out numercus runners which root easily. Leaves
rather like a Heuchera. These turn a pretty russet-red in the
autumn. Long heads of starry white flowers in the spring. Of
easy culture, and a very delightful plant, growing about 6 to 8 inches
high. It does better if occasionally divided.

T. unifoliate.—Like a large edition of 7. cordifolia, but emitting
no runners. Long heads of creamy-white flowers on stems about 2

368 ROCK GARDENS

feet high, and very freely produced. Of easy culture in good, deep,
rich soil. A rare and very handsome plant.

TRIENTALIS EUROPEA

Half-shady position in peaty soil. Slender, erect stems, bearing
whorls of leaves and starry, white, pink-tipped flowers. Is not
difficult to cultivate if good, well-rooted plants are obtained. It is
a native plant, found growing in woody and mossy places. Increased
by division. Quite a good plant.

TRIFOLIUM ALPINUM, Clover

Of trailing habit, with large rosy-crimson flowers in June. A
handsome plant, and the only one worth cultivating out of this large
genus.

TRILLIUM (LILIACEAE), Wood Lily

Very pretty deciduous plants for a shady position. They thrive
in deep, rich loam and leaf-mould soil, so long as it is devoid of
lime. They can be propagated by careful division of the roots or
by seed.

T. grandifiorum.—On stems from I to 2 feet high. The three
large leaves are borne surmounted by the big, lovely, white, three-
petalled flowers. A very beautiful plant, and of easy culture.

T. erythrocarpum (“ Painted Wood Lily”),—A very lovely plant.
The pure white flowers, like a small 7. grvandiflorum, have purple
streaks at the base of each segment. Rather difficult to grow, and
a shy bloomer.

Other species worth growing are the rose-coloured form of J.
grandifiorum, T. sessile, T. californicum, and T. nivale.

TROLLIUS (RANUNCULACEAE), Globe Flower

Very handsome plants for a moist position in deep, rich soil.
Easily propagated by division or seed. They mostly grow about
2 to 3 feet high, and are amongst the best and finest plants for the
bog garden, and are all of easy culture.

T. acaulis.—A dwarf species, only growing some 6 to 8 inches
high. Golden-yellow-coloured flowers, with brown outside. Very
desirable for a damp spot in the rock garden.

T. euvopaeus.—The common Globe Flower, which is the parent of
all the lovely garden varieties. It grows about 18 inches to 2 feet
high. Flowers pale yellow.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 369

Amongst the best garden kinds are—“ Citron Queen,” “ Golden
Globe,’ “ Orange Globe,” “ Prince of Orange,’ “ T. Smith,’ “ Gold-
smith,’ all giving shades from citron-yellow to deep orange.

TROPAEOLUM (GERANIACEAE)

Climbing and trailing plants of great beauty.

T. polyphyllum.— Sunny position in light loam. A distinct
deciduous plant. It has long trailing stems, with densely crowded
glaucous leaves, and is of vigorous habit. The flowers are like
Nasturtiums, and of a bright orange-yellow colour, and very freely
produced. A very handsome plant for a sunny bank, or to fall
over a large rock.

T. speciosum (Flame Nasturtium).—A climbing deciduous plant.
It requires to be planted on the north side of some rock or tree,
and requires good, deep, moist soil, freely mixed with leaf-mould
and sand. The flowers are a most brilliant vermilion colour. A
lovely subject for trailing over some bold rock or bank, or through
some dark-foliaged tree, such as Holly, which contrasts well with
its brilliant flowers. It is not difficult to cultivate, but dislikes dis-
turbance and takes some time to establish itself. Increased by
seed or division.

T. tubcrosa.—Sunny position in warm loam. Of trailing habit,
with large leaves and red and yellow flowers. Is not hardy except
in a dry climate.

Tuuipa (LiviaczeaE), Tulip

A showy genus of bulbous plants, mostly early flowering. The
choicer kinds can find a spot in the rock garden. There are a
great many species, and a selection should be made from some
bulb list.

TuNnICcA SAXIFRAGA

A pretty little plant of the Pink order for a sunny position in light
soil. It has wiry, branching stems and narrow leaves. In the
summer it is covered with a profusion of small pink flowers. A
very attractive plant, but sows itself about so much that it becomes
rather a nuisance. There is, however, a double form which is an
improvement on the type.

Vaccinium Vitis-IDAEA, Red Whortle-berry

This native mountain plant has evergreen box-like foliage and
clusters of pretty pale rose-coloured flowers, followed by red acrid

24

370 ROCK GARDENS

berries. It grows about 9 inches high, and is an attractive little
plant for a peaty corner. There are a great number of American
species, but either too coarse-growing or not of sufficient value for
the rock garden.

VERONICA (SCROPHULARIACEAE)

A very large genus, very variable in habit. While some are
creeping, others form good-sized shrubs. The following are a selec-
tion of the best and hardiest :—

V. Autumn Glory.—A shrubby garden hybrid of much beauty
and value. Foliage very dark green and handsome. Spikes of
deep violet-blue flowers, freely produced in the autumn. A species
of much value and beauty, of easy culture, and propagated readily
from cuttings.

V. Bidwillit—A sub-shrubby plant of prostrate habit. Dark
green foliage and starry white or pink flowers in great profusion
during the whole summer. Any cool, open spot suits it well.
One of the prettiest and best.

V. canescens.—A very minute, creeping species, with tiny, whitish,
hairy leaves, and comparatively large pale blue flowers. A most
dainty little plant for a choice spot on a level with the eye. Any
light soil suits it well.

V. Chamaedrys (Germander Speedwell).—The well-known native
species. Has heart-shaped, hairy leaves, and bright blue flowers in
the greatest profusion. Creeping habit.

V. chathamica.—A prostrate shrubby species, making long,
rambling growths and box-like leaves, and spikes of purple
flowers. A very choice plant, and should be grown in a sheltered
spot, to hang over the face of some rock.

V. cupressotdes——A shrubby species, growing 2 to 3 feet high.
The foliage is attractive, being like a cypress. Violet-coloured
flowers. Comes from New Zealand, and is fairly hardy in this
country.

V. Hulkeana.—A shrubby species. Bright green, rather leathery
leaves. Flowers a very beautiful shade of pale lilac, freely pro-
duced in May and June. Rather straggling habit, and growing 2
to 3 feet high, but needs support. It looks very well in a semi-
decumbent position on some bank. One of the most lovely of all
the Veronicas, but not very hardy, and should be planted in a
sheltered and sunny position in good sandy loam. Easily
propagated by cuttings.

V. Lavaudiana.—Sheltered position in sandy loam and leaf-mould.
Stems decumbent, branches erect. Compact habit, growing about
9 to 12 inches high. Leaves dark green, margined with dark
brownish-crimson. Flowers white, and buds red, borne in spreading

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS 371

heads. The effect of the red unopened buds and white flowers is
most beautiful. This species is rare, and one of the most beautiful
of the Veronicas. It is unfortunately supposed not to be hardy,
but with me it has stood 18 degrees of frost without the least pro-
tection. The flowers appear in May in the utmost profusion. It
can also be propagated from cuttings.

V. pyrolaeformts.—Spreading habit ; foliage light green. Small
arching spikes of pale lilac similar in shade to V. Hulkeana. This
dainty little “‘ Speed-well” is well worth growing.

V. Teucrium prostrata.—A trailing species, with bright blue
flowers in racemes, in the utmost profusion. A variable species.

Other good varieties of the dwarf and trailing type are V. zucana,
V. saxatil’s and its varieties, V. Teucrium and its varieties, “ Royal
Blue,” “ Trehane.”

Of the shrubby species V. Zzlacina, V. loganoides, V. Lyalliz, V.
Balfourstana, V. Gauntlettt, V. La Sediusante, V. Redruth, and
V. salicifolia are among the best of the newer kinds.

VESICARIA (CRUCIFERAE)

A genus of bushy plants of the easiest culture in any light loam.
They are not of much value for the rock garden.

V. graeca.—Grows 9 to 18 inches high. Flowers yellow.

V. utriculata.— Grows about 12 inches high, with yellow
flowers, very like a Wallflower.

ViciA (LEGUMINOSAE)

Pretty perennial species of the Vetch tribe. They are all of the
easiest culture in any soil, and can be propagated by seed.

V. argentea.—Prostrate habit. Silvery-coloured leaves. Large
whitish flowers veined and spotted purple. Useful trailer on
account of its foliage.

V. Cracca.—Trailing habit and purple flowers. A pretty plant
for a wild corner.

V. sylvatica.— Beautiful white and blue flowers in June and July.
Of trailing habit, and useful for growing over some rock.

Vinca (APOCYNACEAE), Periwinkle

These well-known trailing plants may be useful for clothing some
bare bank under trees, where little else would grow.

V. herbacea.—Is a deciduous species, with deep blue flowers, and
not nearly as rampant in habit as the type, and may be used for
covering some rocks in the choicer parts.

372 ROCK GARDENS

VIOLA (VIOLACEAE), Pansy Violet

This genus has given us some of the most beautiful flowers that
deck the hedgerows at home, or the alpine slopes abroad. The
garden Pansy is but a hybrid Viola, and the well-known garden
Viola, so near akin to the Pansy, is but a cross between the
Pansy and other Violas. Of this large genus the following is a
selection :—

V. biflora (Two-flowered Yellow Violet).—Half-shady position in
moist loam. Flowers yellow, and generally two borne on each
stalk. Increased by division. Flowers in May and June.

V. calcarata (Spurred Violet).— Half-shady position in loam.
Flowers purple or white, borne in great profusion. A variable
species. Propagated by seed and division.

V. cornuta (Horned Pansy).—Half-shady position in moist loam.
Pale blue or mauve-coloured flowers. Seed, cuttings, or division.

V. gracilis—Of the Wild Pansy type. Open position in light
soil. Deep purple flowers in great abundance in spring. A very
pretty species.

V. hirta.—Of the Violet type. Forms compact tufts, with blue,
white, or reddish-purple flowers. Grows anywhere, even on hot,
dry banks.

V. odorata (Sweet Violet).—Same as above, except that the
flowers are sweet-scented. The parent of the well-known
garden Violets.

V. pedata.—Of the Violet type. Half shade in good, well-drained
light soil. Dwarf and compact habit. Leaves deeply divided.
Flowers bright blue, but very variable. One of the most beautiful,
and, at the same time, hardest to cultivate of the genus. Pro-
pagated by seed and division.

V. tricolor (Heart’s-ease).—This is the species from which all the
garden Pansies are supposed to have descended. Some of the
choicer varieties may be included in the rock garden.

Besides the species just described, the following are worthy of
cultivation :—V. cenisia, V. canadensis, V. lutea, V. pinnata, V.
heterophylla, V. sorora, V. striata.

VITTADENIA TRILOBA (see ERIGERON MucronatTus)

WAHLENBERGIA (CAMPANULACEAE)

A very attractive genus of essentially Alpine plants, which are
closely allied to the Harebells. They are all hardy and free-
flowering, requiring full exposure to the sun in light gritty soil;

eR AE IE

ee ee ere

ALPHABETICAL LIST (OR PLANTS ‘373

they do best when planted in a position slightly raised from the
surrounding ground, so as to ensure perfect drainage. Propagation
is best by seed, as they do not readily divide.

W. Dalmatica.—Tufted habit with narrow leaves. Deep violet-
blue flowers in July and August. A very pretty plant.

W. gentianoides.—Well-drained soil in open position. Pale blue
flowers on stems 6 to 8 inches high. Well worth growing and
quite hardy.

W. gracilis.—Narrow hairy leaves. Stems square and branched.
Blue terminal flowers in May and August. This is a variable
species of which the best known are, Cafillaris, Littoralis,
and S¢rieta.

W. graminifolia.—Forms close tufts of long grass-like leaves.
Large purple flowers in bunches. Quite easy to grow and readily
raised from seed.

W. hederacea (see Campanula hederacea).

W. pumilio.—Forms dwarf compact tufts of narrow leaves of a
bluish-grey-green tint. Large lilac-blue, bell-shaped flowers in May
and June.

W. pumiliorum.—Very similar to the last, but of a somewhat
more straggling habit. A good hardy plant.

W. saxicola—Of quite a distinct habit. Requires a sunny
position in light loam, in which it spreads freely, throwing up
tufts of narrow leaves. Flowers white veined with purple,
borne on slender stems 3 inches high. Blooms during the
whole summer. A beautiful and attractive plant and well worth
growing.

W. serpyllifolia.—Forms tufts of small narrow leaves. Flowers
purple. An attractive plant, doing well on rocky ledges. One of
the best of the genus. The variety major has larger flowers, and,
if possible, more brilliant than the type.

W. tenuifolia.—Dwarf and compact in habit. Heads of small
deep purple flowers on stems 3 to 4 inches high.

W. vincaeflora—Grows about 12 inches high, forming loose
tufts of narrow wiry leaves. Lavender-blue flowers, freely
produced.

WALDSTEINIA (ROSACEAE)

Pretty plants nearly allied to the Strawberry.

W. fragariotdes.— Trailing habit, with bright red stems
and large bright yellow flowers. Of easiest culture in ordinary
soil,

374 ROCK GARDENS

W. trifolia.—A trailing species of vigorous habit and bright
yellow flowers. A pretty evergreen plant for covering any bare
spot. Is indifferent to position or soil.

WULFENIA CARINTHIACA

Dwarf evergreen plant for a half-shady position in deep, rather rich
soil. Purplish-blue spikes of flowers. Not difficult to cultivate.
A very pretty and attractive plant. Increased by seed or division.

XEROPHYLLUM ASPHODELOIDES

A tuberous-rooted plant, forming tufts of grassy leaves and spikes
of white flowers. A nice plant for a moist, peaty spot.

ZAUSCHNERIA CALIFORNICA

A deciduous shrubby plant. Requires a warm position in very
sandy soil. Grows about 18 inches high. Small, rather hairy
leaves, and bright vermilion flowers in the autumn. A pretty and
hardy plant, but requires shelter, as the branches are very brittle and
easily broken by the wind. The varieties I/extcana and Splendens
are very similar to the type.

ZENOBIA (see ANDROMEDA)

A SELECTION OF PLANTS FOR DRY
AND SUNNY POSITIONS, AND TIME
OF FLOWERING

Antirrhinum “ . Summer.
Calandrinia . “A
Callirhoé ; : -
Cheiranthus : . Early summer.
Erinus : : a
Geranium . ; . Summer.
Gerberia . ; Ss
Gypsophila . : d -
Helianthemum ‘ ‘5
Hieracium . : i as
Leontopodium +
Malvastrum

Mathiola . , :

iene ge ye rag

Se a

SELECTION

Mesembryanthemum

Ononis
Onosma
Opuntia
Origanum

Rosmarinus.

Sedum

Sempervivum

Thymus
Tunica

Zauschneria

A’ SELECTION

OF PLANTS 375

Summer.

”
Early summer.

Summer.
9
”

”
Autumn.

OF PLANTS FOR FULL

SUN OR PARTIAL SUNNY POSITIONS,
AND TIME OF FLOWERING

Acantholimon

Achillea
AEthionema
Alyssum
Androsace

Antennaria
Anthemis .
Arabis
Arenaria .
Astragalus
Aubrietia
Campanula

Cerastium .
Cistus

Convolvulus
Cytisus

Delphinium
Dianthus .
Draba :
Dryas ‘
Epilobium
Gentiana .

Globularia

Summer.
Early summer.
Spring and summer.
Spring.
Most species, spring and early
summer.
Summer.
Early summer.
Spring.
Spring and early summer.
Autumn.
Spring.
These like rather more shade.
Most species, spring and summer.
Summer.
Early summer.
Summer and autumn.
Early summer.
Summer.
”
Spring.
Summer.
”
Some species, early summer.
Most Gentians prefer shade.
Summer.

376

ROCK GARDENS

Hypericum
Iberis
Inula
Jasione
Linum
Lithospermum
Lychnis
Nepeta
Noccaea
Pentstemon
Phlox :
Phyteuma .
Polygonum
Potentilla .
Primula
Rubus
Saponaria .
Saxifraga .
Scabiosa .
Silene
Statice
Thalictrum
Tropaeolum
Veronica .
Vciia
Vinca
Wahlenbergia

Early summer.
”
Summer.
”

”
Spring to autumn.
Early summer.
Summer and autumn.
Early summer.

” ‘

Spring and summer.
Summer.
Summer and autumn.
Summer.
Some species, spring and summer.
Summer.
Spring to autumn.
Most species, spring and summer.
Summer.
Spring.
Summer and autumn.
Summer.
Summer and autumn.
Spring to autumn.
Summer and autumn.
Summer.
Early summer.

A SELECTION OF PLANTS FOR POSI-
TIONS IN DEEP SHADE

(Most of these will also do in partial shade.)

Arenaria balearica
Epigaea repens
Ferns.

Summer.
Spring.
Many species.

Haberlea rhodopensis andvirginalis. Early summer.

Houstonia :
Jankaea Heldreichii .
Mitchella repens 5
Ourisia coccinea
Primula

Ramondia

Summer.
”
Early summer
Summer.
Some species, spring and
summer.
All species, early summer.

SELECTION OF PLANTS zy

A SELECTION OF PLANTS FOR PARTIAL

SHADY POSITIONS

Acaena .
Adonis
Ajuga
Allium
Androsace
Anemone
Aquilegia
Asperula .
Aster
Campanulas
Celmisia .
Coronilla .
Cyclamen
Cypripedium
Daphne .
Epimedium
Erigeron .
Erodium .
Hepatica.
Incarvillea
Iris
Lysimachia
Meconopsis
Morisia .
CEnothera
Omphalodes
Oxalis
Parochetus
Platycodon
Primula .
Saxifraga
Soldanella
Spiraea

Symphyandra
Tanakaea
Tiarella .
Tricyrtis .
Trillium .
Viola

Summer.
Early spring.
Summer.
”
Some species, spring and summer.
Spring and summer.
” ”
Spring.
Spring and summer.
Some species, early summer.
Summer.
Early summer.
Autumn.
Summer.
Spring and summer.
Spring.
Early summer.

9
Early spring.
Summer.
Some species, summer.
Summer and autumn.
Summer.
Early spring.
Summer and autumn.
Early spring.
Summer and autumn.
Summer.

”
Most species, spring and summer.
A few species, spring and summer.
Early spring.
Some species require moisture.
Summer.

Autumn.
Summer.
Spring.
Autumn.
Spring.
Summer.

ROCK GARDENS

A SELECTION OF PLANTS FOR MOIST

POSITIONS IN SUN OR SHADE

Anagallis Summer.

Caltha . Spring.

Cornus . Summer.

Cortusa . Early summer.

Cypripedium Some species, summer.
Dodecatheon Early summer.

Galax Spring.

Gaultheria Summer.

Gentiana. Some species, spring and summer.
Gunnera . . Summer.

Iris Some species, summer.
Meconopsis ‘a of

Mertensia Spring and summer.

Mimulus . af 4s

Mitchella Summer.

Myosotis . Spring and summer.

Orchids . Some species, spring and summer.
Ourisia . , Summer.

Primula . Some species, spring and summer.
Ranunculus Spring and summer.

Rodgersia Summer.

Saxifraga Some species, spring and autumn.
Shortia . Spring.

Spiraea . Many species, spring to autumn.
Trollius . Spring and summer.

A SELECTION OF PLANTS SUITABLE
FOR TRAILING OVER ROCKS

Acaena.

Ethionema, most species.

Alyssum, most species.

Androsace lanuginosa, A. 1. Leichtlini.

Antirrhinum : A. asarina, A. glutinosum, and A. sempervirens.
Arabis, all species except A. androsace.

Arenaria, most species, especially A. montana.

Aubrietia, all species.

Callirhoé involucrata.

Calystegia, all species.

SELECTION OF PLANTS 379

Campanulas: C. Elatines, C. garganica and varieties, C. isophylla,
C. muralis, C. portenschlagiana.

Cerastium, most species.

Cistus florentinus and some other species.

Clematis, all species except C. recta.

Convolvulus, all species.

Coronilla iberica.

Cotoneaster adspressa, C. humifusa, C. microphylla.

Cydonia japonica and varieties.

Cytisus ardoini, C. decumbens, C. Kewensis.

Daphne cneorum.

Dianthus caesius, D. deltoides, D. deltoides alba, D. fimbriatus,
D. plumarius and hybrids, D. suavis.

Dryas octopetala.

. Epilobium obcordatum.

Erica carnea and varieties.

Genista prostrata.

Gypsophila prostrata, G. repens and varieties.

Helianthemum, all varieties.

Hippocrepis comosa.

Hypericum fragile, H. repens, and H. reptans.

Iberis, all varieties.

Lippia nodiflora.

Lithospermum prostratum, L. purpureo-coeruleum,

Lysimachia Nummularia and L. N. var. aurea.

Mesembryanthemum Muchlenbeckia and all species.

Nepeta Mussini.

CEnothera, most varieties.

Othonnopsis (syn. Othonna) cheirifolia and O. crassifolia.

Parochetus communis.

Phlox procumbens, P. reptans, P. Stellaria and varieties, P. subulata
and varieties.

Polygonum vaccinifolium.

Ribes prostrata.

Rose, all of the Wichuriana type.

Rubus, many species.

Salix herbacea, S. repens, S. sericea pendula.

Saponaria ocymoides and varieties.

Saxifraga, the mossy type.

Sedum spurium.

Silene alpestris, S. Schafta.

Sphaeralcea Munroana.

Symphyandra pendula.

Thymus Serpyllum and varieties,

Tropaeolum polyphyllum.

380 ROCK GARDENS

Tunica Saxifraga.

Veronica Chathamica, V. repens, V. Teucrium, and other varieties.

Vinca, all species.

Waldsteina fragarioides and W. trifolia.

LIST OF PLANTS ‘SUITABLE HOR
THE MORAINE

Achillea rupestris.
Androsace carnea.
es ciliata.

x villosa.
Armeria caespitosa.
Asperula hirta.
Campanula Allionii.

ss carnica.

oS waldsteiniana.

Dianthus Freynii.

ra neglectus.
Douglasia vitaliana.
Erodium corsicum.

53 guttatum.
Geranium cinerium.
Hypericum Coris.
Inula acaulis.
(Enothera caespitosa.
Omphalodes Luciliae.
Penstemon Davidsoni.
Potentilla nitida.

a 3 |) alba.

Saxifraga Boryi.

Boydii.
» alba.

burseriana and varie-
ties.

caesa.

Elizabethae.

lilacina.

oppositifolia and varie-
ties.

Paulinae.

retusa.

rocheliana.

Salomoni.

rh)
Sedums in variety.
Sempervivums in variety.
Silene acaulis.

”

”

”

9 Bernarti.
Elizabethae.
Hookeri.

Wahlenbergias in variety.

SELECTION OF DWARF SHRUBS 381

A SELECTION OF DWARF SHRUBS,
PINES, AND CONIFERS

Abies (syn. Picea) excelsa Clanbrasiliana, 4 feet, A. e. pygmea,
A, e. Remonti, A. e. procumbens, A. e. parviformis, A. e. pumila
and pumila glauca.

Amydalus Nana, 2 feet.

Andromeda polifolia, 1 foot.

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi and varieties, Californica and Nevadensis.

Azalea amoena and varieties (see p. 244), A. procumbens (syn.
Loiseleuria procumbens).

Berberis Darwinii nana, 1 foot, B. Stenophylla Irwinii, B, Thun-
bergii minor.

Betula, var. crenata nana.

Cassiope (syn. Andromeda) fastigata, C. hypnoides, and C. tetra-
gona (see p. 228).

Cassinia Fulvida, 3 feet (syn. Diplopappus chrysophylla).

Cedrus Comte de Dijon.

Cistus (see p. 258).

Cotoneaster (see p. 264).

Cryptomeria japonica nana.

Cupressus Lawsoniana nana, and minima glauca.

Cydonia (syn. Pyrus) japonica Simonii, prostrate habit.

Cytisus (see p. 266).

Daphne (see p. 267).

Erica (see p. 277).

Euonymus Kewensis, E. nana.

Fuchsia (see p. 281).

Gaultheria (see p. 282).

Genista (see p. 283).

Helianthemum (see p. 291).

Hypericum calycinum, 1 foot; H. coris, 1 foot ; H. empetrifolium,
1 foot. For other varieties see p. 294.

Juniperus communis aurea, I to 2 feet; J. Hibernica compressa,
J. prostrata, J. recurva densa, J. Sabina tamariscifolia. Pros-
trate habit.

Kalmia (see p. 298).

Ledum (see p. 300).

Ligustrum Delavayanum, 2 feet.

Lonicera depressa and L. rupicola.

Menziesia (see p. 309).

Pernettya (see p. 323).

382 ROCK GARDENS

Philadelphus candelabra, P. Manteau-d’ Hermine.

Pinus sylvestris Beuvronensis, P. s. globosa, and P. s. g. viridis,
P. s. pygmaea.

Polygala (see p. 327).

Potentilla fruticosa, P. Friedrichseni and other varieties.

Prunas prostrata (syn. Amydalus incana).

Pyrus Cydonia japonica pygmaea, P. jap. Simonii, P. jap. Sargenti.

Retinospora (syn. Chamaecyparis) obtusa nana, R. o. aurea, and
R. o. pygmaea, R. pisifera nana, R. Sanderi.

Rhododendron (see p. 343).

Ribes prostrata.

Rosa (see p. 344).

Rosmarinus prostrata.

Rubus nutans, I to 2 feet; R. pedatus (see p. 345).

Salix ambigua, 1 to 3 feet; S. herbacea, S. repens, S. retusa,
S. r. serpyllifolia (see p. 345).

Senecio Grayii, 2 feet.

Skimmia japonica, 2 feet.

Spiraea arguta multiflora, S. bullata, S. decumbens, S. Hacquetii,
S. japonica rubra, S. tomentosa, S. trilobata.

Teucrium latifolium.

Thuya nana aurea, T. plicata nana, T. umbraculifera, T. minima
glauca, T. occidentalis, “ Little Gem,” T. recurva nana.

Thuyopsis nana.

Ulex nana.

Vaccinium (see p. 369).

Veronica (see p. 370).

A SELECTION OF HARDY FERNS SUIT-
ABLE FOR ROCK GARDEN IN SUN
OR HALF SHADE.

Allosorus crispus (Parsley Fern).

Aspidium (syn. Polystichum) acrostichoides, A. aculeatum, A. angu-
lare.

Asplenium fontanum, A. adiantum-nigrum, A. viride, A. angusti-
folium, A. Ruta-muraria, A. Trichomanes, A. Ceterach.

Athyrium felix-foemina and varieties.

Cystopteris alpina, C. fragilis, C. montana.

Nephrodium (syn. Lastrea) Cristatum, Felix-max and varieties
N. marginales, N. rigidium, N. recurva, N. spinulosum. All
the Nephrodiums like half shade.

SELECTION, OF BULBOUS PLANTS. 38a

Onoclea (syn. Struthiopteris) germanica (Ostrich Fern).

Osmunda Claytoniana, O. gracilis, O. Regalis and var. cristata.
The last two like moist, peaty soil.

Polypodium Cambricum, P. Dryopteris (Oak Fern), P. Phegopteris
(Beech Fern), P. vulgare and varieties.

Woodwardia aspera, W. japonica.

A SELECTION OF HARDY FERNS FOR
SHADY POSITION

Adiantum Capillus Veneris, A. pedatum.

Aspidium aculeatum, A. cristatum, A. munitum.

Asplenium marinum, A. adiantum nigrum, A. Trichomanes, A.
thelypteroides.

Botrychium Lunaria.

Hymenophyllum tunbridgense.

Nephrodium (syn. Lastrea) marginale, N. aemulum, N. recurva,
N. noveboracense.

Woodsia ilvensis, W. oregana, W. obtusa, W. polystichoides.

Woodwardia aspera, W. virginica, W. japonica.

All the above like a moist soil.

A SELECTION OF BULBOUS PLANTS

Allium (see p. 225).

Anomatheca cruenta; sunny position in sandy loam ; rosy-crimson
flowers, August to October ; seed.

Anthericum (see p. 236).

Brodiaea gracilis ; deep yellow flowers. B. uniflora.

Calochortus Benthami; 6 to 8 inches; rich yellow flowers in July
and August. C. caeruleus ; grows 3 to 6 inches high; lilac-
coloured flowers in July. C. lilacinus; grows 6 inches high ;
large purple flowers. C. Maweanus; grows 6 inches high;
purplish-white flowers in June and July. C. pulchellus ; grows
10 to 12 inches high; bright yellow flowers in the summer.
Other species are also well worth growing. They all like a
sunny position in light sandy soil.

Chionodoxa Luciliae ; grows about 6 inches high; flowers deep
blue, shading to white in the centre ; blooms in early spring ;
very pretty. There are several varieties which are also good.

Colchicum (see p. 261).

384 ROCK GARDENS

Chionodoxa Luciliae ; grows about 6 inches high; flowers deep
blue, shading to white in the centre; blooms in early spring ;
very pretty. There are several varieties which are also good.

Colchicum (see p. 261).

Crocus (see p. 265).

Erythronium (see p. 281).

Fritillaria armena ; dull purple flowers in spring. F. aurea ; bright
yellow flowers ; grows 6to 8incheshigh. F. coccinea; scarlet-
coloured flowers. F. Meleagris (Common Fritillary) ; colours
various. F. pallidiflora; grows 1 foot high; flowers yellow.
F. pudica ; dark yellow flowers in May; grows 6 inches high.
F. tulipifolia ; purple-coloured flowers. And other varieties.

Galanthus (Snowdrops).

Habranthus (see p. 291).

Iris (see p. 297).

Lapeyrousia anceps ; grows 9 inches high ; bluish-purple flowers in
September. L.corymbosa ; grows 6 inches high ; blue flowers
in May.

Leucojum (see p. 220).

Lilium (see p. 302).

Muscari (see p. 313).

Narcissus (see p. 314).

Orchids (see p. 318).

Puschkinia scilloides (“Striped Squill”); grows 6 inches high;
flowers white, striped blue ; blooms in spring.

Scilla (Squill), various species.

Sternbergia (see p. 365).

Trillium (see p. 368). T. aurea; flowers yellow, in April.

Triteleia (syn. Brodiaea) uniflora; pale blue-coloured flowers in
April and May.

Tulipa (see p. 369).

Zephyranthes rosea ; flowers pink, in May. Z. versicolor ; grows
about 12 inches high ; rose-coloured flowers in the winter.

PLANTS FOR MASSING 385

PLANTS FOR MASSING

Besides the plants which can usually be grouped together because
they belong to the same family, the following are particularly
useful for massing on account of the positions they like, their colours,

and time of flowering :—

Silene alpestris.
Campanula pulla.
pulloides.

Aubrietia, in variety.

{ Arabis albida.
Alyssum saxatile.

Campanula turbinata.
Armeria cephalotes.

Lithospermum prostratum.
Saxifraga, encrusted species.

Dianthus neglectus.
Hutchinsia alpina.
Noccea alpina.

Ourisia coccinea.
Tiarella cordifolia.

Androsace Chumbyi.

Saxifrages, encrusted species.

Nepeta Mussini.
Cerastium tomentosum.

Shortia galaxifolia.
Galax aphylla.

Omphalodes verna.
Ourisia coccinea.

Veronica repens.
Thymus serpyllum alba.

Cortusa Matthiolo.
Primula luteola.

Primula sikkimensis.
Anemone rivularis.

Gentiana acaulis.
Lychnis Viscaria alba.

Hieracium villosum,
Campanula turbinata Isabel.

Ethionema, gd. fl.
Campanula muralis.

Dryas octopetala.
Thymus serpyllum coccinea.

Ramondia, in variety.
Haberlea rhodopensis.
Ferns in variety.
Caltha palustris.
Primula rosea.

{ Wahlenbergia serpyllifolia.
Saxifrages, encrusted species.

Hypericum fragilis.
Campanula portenschlagiana.

Gypsophila prostrata.
Genista prostrata.

Anthericum Liliastrum.

Saxifraga umbrosa.
Trilliums.

Erysimum ochroleucum.

Cheiranthus alpinus.
Lithospermum prostratum.

Dianthus deltoides.

Tunica saxifraga.
Mossy Saxifrages.

25

INDEX

Alpine plants and their habitat,
5, 90, 155, 158.
cultivation of, 155 e¢ seg.
essentials to success, 5, 61.
list of, suitable for rock
gardens, 215 eZ seg.
loss of characteristic
growth, 160.
propagation of, 126 ef seg.
protection of, 163.
protection from
conditions, 9I.
raising from seed, 126 e¢ seg.
soil for, 61, 86 e¢ seg.
watering, 165, 170.
Alpines and rock plants, differ-
ence between, 185.
difficulty of rearing various
kinds of, 157.
Alum, powdered, as an insecti-
cide, 179.
Amphitheatre form of
garden, the, 14.
Androsaces, division of, 145.
protection from climatic
changes, 9I.
soil for, 140.
suitable for rock gardens, list
of, 229-232.
Annuals, objections to, 190.
Antirrhinum (cf Snapdragon).
Aphis, destroying, 181.
Arabis, useful varieties of, 238-

climatic

rock

239.
Artificial bog garden, 9, 97.
making, 210.
plants and cost, 211.
the water supply for, 104.

386

|

Artificial fertilisation, 127.
rock gardens, 21 ef seq.
advantages and disadvan-
tages, 29.
a typical example of a valley
garden, 48.
bank and knoll types, 23,
39; 55-
banks and rockwork for,
Are
bold effects desired, 42.
difficulties of large, 59.
preparing banks for rock-
work, 42.
the bank type, 39.
the gravel pit, 23, 30.
the hollow garden, 53.
the horseshoe type, 39.
the large hollow, 23.
the rocky bed, 24, 30, 56.
the “sunken garden” type,
22.
the valley type, 39 e¢ seq.
the very large rock garden,
2G:
nae hints concerning, 61-
be
what can be done with a
level field, 38.
Aster (cf Michaelmas Daisy).
Aubrietias, treatment of, 151.
Auricula (cf Primula).
Azaleas, layering, 153.
in the rock garden, suitable
shrubs, 244-245.

““ Baby Bucco,” the, 92.
Beds for cuttings, 150.

=

INDEX

Bell-flowers, list of, suitable for
rock gardens, 248-253, 325.
Birds and the garden, 175-177.
Bog gardens, 95 e¢ seq.
artificial, making, 210.
Boiling water as an insecticide,

134.
Bulbous plants for rock gardens,

a selection of, 383-384.
Bulbs in the rock garden, I91.

Campanula (cf. Bell-flowers).
Campanulas, division of, 146.
list of, suitable for rock gar-
dens, 248-253.
Candytuft, 295-296.
Caterpillars, 181.
Cistus, the, how to strike, 150.
Cliff type of rock garden, the, 16.
surroundings and approach,
17.
Climate, importance of, on rock
plants, 85.
Climatic difficulties, methods of
overcoming, 163 ef seg.
plants and, 156.
Cold frames, 141.
Columbines, 237-238.
Compost for top-dressing, a
good, 171.
Conifers, a selection of, suited
for rock gardens, 3381-

382.
Convolvulus, 262.
Convolvulus altheoides, au-

thor’s experience of, 194.
Cowslip, American, 273.
Creeping Jenny, the, 307.
Cultivation of plants, 155 ef seg.
Cuttings, best time to take, 148.

planting, 149.

Damp, its effect on plants, 91,
92, 93, 119, 150.

Daphnes, layering, 153.

Dianthus (c/ Pinks).

Drainage, 5, 9, 12, 29, 35, 37; 54,
62, 71, 93, 94, 207.

Dry wall, building of a, 209.

Earwigs, 181.
Evening Primrose, the, 315.

387

Everlasting flowers, 292.
peas, 299-300.

Farrar, Mr Reginald, on rock
gardens, 68.
Ferns, hardy (sun or half shade),
a selection of, 382-383.
hardy, for shady positions, 383.
in the rock garden, rol.
Fertilisation, artificial, 127.
cross, 127.
Fissures, 21, 34, 64, 78, 124.
and how to make them, 72
et Seq.
Flax, 303-304.
Flower-pots, preparation of, for
sowing seeds, 133.
Forget-me-not, the, 313-314.
Fumitories, a selection of, 264.

Garden pests—

Aphis, 181.

Birds, 176.

Caterpillars, 181.

Earwigs, 181.

Slugs, 177, 179.

Snails, 177, 179.

Wire-worms, 180.

Wood-lice, 181.
Gardening tool, a useful, 92.
Gentians, perennial, 284-286.
Globe Flower, 368.

Heath family, the, suitable posi-
tion for, 110.

Heaths, suitable forrock gardens,
277.

Helianthemums, how to strike,
150.

Hollow gardens, aspect of, 54.

Honeysuckle, hints regarding,
306.

Horseshoe form of rock gardens,
the, 15.

Hotbeds, 137.

Insecticide, boiling water as an,
134.

Insecticides, 177, 179, 180.

Iris, a selection of, suitable for
rock gardens, 297.

388

Jacob’s Ladder, 327.

Larkspurs, 268-269.

Laurels, 298-299.

Layering plants, process of, 153.

Leaf-mould, 88.

Lilies, a few of the best for rock
gardens, 302, 321.

Lime, how to supply, 88.

Lime-hating plants, 88, 89, 200.

Lime-loving plants, 140.

Lithospermum, valuable, 304-

305.

Loam, 62, 86, 89.

Lobelias, 305-306, 330.

Lupines, the, and their habits,
306.

Madwort, 225-226.
Marchantia, the arch-enemy of
seeds, 127, 133, 134.

Mertensia, the, list of, 309-310.

Michaelmas Daisy, the, 242.

Mimulus (Monkey Flower), 311.

Moraine, list of plants suitable
for, 380.

Moraines, natural and artificial,
83, 84, 9o.

“Mother of Thousands,” 356—

357:
Myosotis (cf Forget-me-not).

Narcissus, 314.
Natural bog garden, a, 96.
rock gardens, 13 ef seg.
advantages and disadvant-
ages, 28.
development of, 32.
exposing and preparing rock
for, 32.
pockets, natural and _arti-
ficial, 21, 34 ef seg., 78, 124.
the cliff type, 16.
the old quarry, 14.
the rocky bank, 19.
the rocky knoll, 19.
weeding and
ground, 33.

cleaning

Papaver (cf Poppy).
Pea, the everlasting, 299-300.
Peat-loving plants, 89, 140, 200.

INDEX

Perennials, advantages of, 190.
Philadelphus, how to strike, 150.
Phloxes, propagation of, 146.
varieties of, 324-325.
Pimpernel, 227.
Pines, a selection of, suitable for
rock gardens, 381-382.
Pinks suitable for rock gardens,
269-272.
Planting, improper, 167.
the correct way, 168.
the ideal time for, 170.
when inadvisable, 169, 170.
Plants and climatic difficulties,
156.
cultivation of, 155 e¢ seg.
for dry and sunny positions, a
selection of, 374-375.
for full sun or partial sunny
positions, a selection of,
375-376. ‘
for moist positions in sun or
shade, 378.
for partial shady positions,
377-
for positions in deep shade, a
selection of, 376.
for rock gardens, alphabetical
list of, 215-374.
for the moraine, list of, 380.
for trailing over rocks, a selec-
tion of, 378-380.
layering, 153.
necessity of examining, 172.
rampant-growing : a warning,

193.
suitable for massing, 385.
Pockets, natural and artificial,
21, 34 ef seg., 72, 78, 124.
Polygonums, 328.
Poppies suitable for rock gar-
dens, 308, 321.
Prickly Thrift, the, 216-218.
Primulaceae, 364.
suitable varieties for rock gar-
dens, 229-232, 330-338.
Primulas, division of, 145.
Propagation by division or cut-
tings, 128, 143 e¢ seg.
of plants by seed, 126-143.
sinking the pots containing
plants, 147.

INDEX

Quarry gardens, noteworthy
points concerning, 17-19.

Ramondias, soil for, 140.

Ranunculaceae, the, 221-122,
232-235, 237, 268-269,
341-343.

Rhododendrons, difficulty of cul-
ture, 200.

dwarf varieties of, 343.
layering, 153.
soil for, 140.

Rock Cress (cf Arabis).

Rock gardens, alphabetical list
of plants suitable for, 215
et seq.

artificial, 21 ef seg.

aspects of, 8, 15 e¢ seg.

bulbous plants suitable for,
383-384.

contour of the land, 9.

cost of making, 201 ef seg.

drainage of, 5, 9, 12, 29, 37;
54, 62, 71, 93, 94, 207.

ferns suitable for, 382-383.

large, 25, 31, 56; an ideal
spot for, 27.

natural, 13 ef seg.

nature of soil for, 9.

planting, 183 e¢ seg.

plants for massing, list of,
385.

quality of rock, 21.

scheme of planting, 188 e¢
Seq.

sites for, 3-12, 14 ef seg.

small, 24, 30.

suitable plants for, 186 e¢
S€q., 215 e¢ seg.

the importance of propor-
tion, 196.

typical sites for, 10-12.

plants and alpines, differ-

ence between, 185.

best type of soil for, 86.

importance of climate on,

5.
soil and, 85 e¢ seg.
roses, 258-260.
Rocks and sand, approximate
cost of, 207.

389
Rockwork, an artificial moraine,

construction of, 67.

different kinds of, 64-67.

fissures between, 72.

method of construction, 6, 70,

77:

paths, 81.

plants for, 82.

steps, formation of, 82.

terraces, 78.

types to be avoided, 66-67, 69.
Rocky bed, the, 24, 30, 56.
Roses, 344.

St John’s Wort, dwarf-growing
varieties, 294-295.
Sandwort, 239-240.
Saxifrages, 140, 167.
how to increase, 144, 145.
list of, suitable for rock gar-
dens, 321, 346 e¢ seg.
soil for, 187.
Scrub, clearing, 206.
Sea Lavender, 365.
Seed, propagating alpine plants
from, 126 e¢ seg.
Seed-bed, the, preparation of,
130.
Seedlings, pricking out, 142.
Seeds, correct way of sowing,
138.
disadvantages of raising alpine
plants from, 127.
fertile, 129.
germination of, 137, I4I.
sowing, 129, 139.
sowing in pots, 133.
watering, I3I, 135.
Shrubs, hard-wooded, striking,
152.
suitable for rock gardens, 195
et seg., 382-383.
Sites for rock gardens, 3-12, 14
et seq.
Slugs, alum as a preventative
for, 179.
zinc as a protection from, 132,
178.
Snails, alum as a preventative
for, 179.

39°

Snails, zinc as a protection from,
132, 178.

Snapdragon, a few varieties

suited for the rock gar-
den, 236-237.
Soapwort, 346.
Soil, adaptation of natural, 86
ét S€q.
and alpine plants, 61, 33.
drainage of, 5, 9, 12, 29, 375
54, 62, 71, 93) 94-
for rock gardens, 9, 61, 83.
for rock plants, 86.
for Saxifrages, 187.
leaf-mould, 88.
lime and, 88.
loamy, 62, 86, 89.
poor and stony, necessary for
some alpine plants, go.
stirring the, 92.
suitable for various plants,
140.
Solomon’s Seal, 327-328.
Stonecrop, 360.
Strata or grain of rockwork, the,

75-

“Sunken garden” type of arti-
ficial rock gardens, the,
22.

Thrift, 240.

Toadflax, 302-303.

Top-dressing a rock garden,
171.

INDEX

Trailing plants, a list of, 378-
380.
Trees, overhanging, 7, 33.

Valley type of rock garden, the,
15.

““Vaporite,” a successful insecti-
cide, 180.

Veronica, 370-371.

Vetches for rock gardens, 236,

_ 243, 263, 293.

Violas, a selection of, for rock

gardens, 372.

Wall garden, the, 117.
plants suitable for, 378.
Wallflowers, 256-257.
Water garden, the, 113.
plants for, 115-116.
Watering, a golden rule concern-
ing, 170.
seeds, 135.
Weeds and weeding, 33, 103,
.. 174, 175.
Wild garden, the, 108.
plants for, 109-113.
Wind Flower, 232-235.
Wire-worms, 180, 181.
Wood-lice, 181.

Yarrow, varieties of, 218-220.

Zinc, utility of, against snails
and slugs, 132, 178.

PRINTED BY NEILL AND CO., LTD., EDINBURGH.

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