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978.8
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1349228
GENEAL-CGV COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1833 01100 1721
3,.::.u
AND (JOLOllADO (lA/KTTEKll.
THOMAS H. BEOWN'S
MANVFACTrKER OF
Gentlemen's Road and Family
Is iittractiug great attention in New York and elsewlierc.
44 .A^iiams Street,
^e
ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Weill' pstiil |i?cliarge liilitniitor
This Amalgamator is capable of treating a ton or more at a chiu-gc, and is i>r<)-
vided with an
ADJUSTABLE MOTION.
l)y which its speed may be increased to any desired rate wJtile i/riiidinf/, and rciliu-i-d
to a verj' slow motion tvhile floiving off.
It is also provided with an
ADJUSTABLE CENTRAL DISCHARGE,
by which the flowing off can be so skillfully managed that the loss of mercury
and amalgamated gold is almost entirely j>revented.
These important features make it by far the most valuable and successful amal-
gamator in use, and a single trial will convince any competent person of its suite
I'iority over all others. Address
Agent I'helps' Process,
Box 395. ' CHICAGO, ILL.
ielps^ Amttmaile i#li Wmm
This simple and valuable invention supplies a long felt want, and will be
endorsed at once by practical men as an invaluabi.k improvement on the pres<nt
method of panning out by hand.
Any person can, with this machine, do the work of ten men with the ordinary-
gold pan, and so perfectly can the supply of water and the dhscharge be regulated,
that fifty pounds of pulp or concentrated tailings may be washed down to a few
ounces in less time than would be required to wash out a single panful by hand.
This obviates the necessity of so close a concentration from the amalgamator —
au operation usually attended with considerable loss of mercury and gold, and
hence its use gives better results than can possibly be obtained on a large scale
without it.
Address
Agent Phelps' Process,
Box 39S. CHICAGO, ILL.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER.
tip
the:
^1 cJk Jk I^I^I^i^ikB* #1
CONSISTING OF AN OXIDIZING FURNACE, A CENTRAL
DISCHARGE AMALGAMATOR AND AN AUTO-
MATIC GOLD PAN.
The Least Expensive and Most Successful Gold Saving
Process in the World.
JRA M PHELPS, JOHN BURTON & M. VEALE, Assignees.
M. VEALE & THOS. BURTON, Agents,
PHELPS' OXIDIZING FURNACE
Is designed especially for treating all those refractory gold and silver bearing sul-
phurets, except those containing a considerable portion of galena.
It is claimed for this wonderful invention that it possesses the following advan-
tages over all others of its kind in use:
First — It will receive and transmit a far greater quantity of air than any other
furnace, without carrj'ing any of the gold out, by force of the draft current.
Second — It compels the thorough admixture of the "oxidizing currents" with
the ore, thus supplying more available oxygen, in a less quantity of air, than any
other furnace.
Thi7-d— The ore is admitted into the oxidizing flue 40 feet from the fire-box,
where the temperature is comparatively low, and is gradually heated as the quan-
tity of sulphur diminishes.
Fourth— The ore is kept constantly in motion by its own gravity, thereby
avoiding the expense of labor and the carelessness of oi^eratives.
Fifth — The ore distributes itself over the terraced floor of the furnace in the
thinnest possible stratum, so that each particle is acted upon independently and
"slagging" entirely prevented.
iSix^/i— Sufficient time is secured to effect the perfect desulphurization and
oxidation of the largest particle admitted into the furnace.
Seventh— The sulphur is made to furnish its own fuel to a great extent, only a
small quantity of wood being required to complete the oxidation of the base
metals.
Fic/hih—So simple and perfect is it in its plan and mechanism that one man
can attend it, treating a ton an hour with a degree of perfection never yet attained
by any other means. Address
1^. "VE.i^IjE!,
P, O. Box SOS.
CHICAGO, ILL.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Manufacturer of Fire and Burglar Proof
Vaults, Doors and Dwelling House Safes
SARGENT & GREENLEAF'S BANK LOCKS,
60 and 62 South Canal Street,
Tlioy are so constructed that the bolts of the doors shut behind a wrought iron frame, which fornix
tlie front of the Safe, avoiding all danger of their being forced open by falling. Owing to tlie peculiiir
construction of the door jamb, they will resist the action of fire for a longer time than luvs thus far been
found necessary for perfect safety.
THET HAVE BEEN TESTED IX THE EAItGEST FIRES IN THIS COVNTIiY
■Without a single failure to preserve their contents.
S®"- Prices LO"WER than any other reliable Safe. °^a
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER.
m^i
P:
.1 JLLI
THE GREAT CENTRAL IOWA ROUTE
TO THIEI IB^^STI
BETWEEN
OMAHA, COUJ^CIL BLUFFS Sf CHICAGO
Des Moines and Roolc Island.
This route is newly equipped with ELEGANT NEW COACHP'.S ami
PALACE SLEEPING CARS,
"Which rnn over a thoroughly ballasted road-bod, laid witli heavy new vail, with
braced joints.
TRAINS LEAVE COUNCIL BLUFFS DAILY, AS FOLLOWS:
Arrive at Chicago 6.00 A. M.
Arrive at Chicago 4.15 P. .AI.
S.OO A.M., daily, (Sundays excepted)..
.•..•2U P.M., daily .".
Trains leave in connection with trains arriving from the AVest. Both trains are
EXPRESS TRAINS,
«g-AND CONNECT AT CHICAGO AVITH FAST TRAINS FOR THE EAST.-^fe^
THIS LINE IS OVER
lOO MILES SHORTER to CHICAGO than via ST. JOE
And the only road running through the CAPITAL OF lOAVA.
THROUGH TICItETS,
Via this line to all principal points EAST and SOUTH, for sale at the COMPANY'S
TICKET OFFICE, in
Corner of Planter's House, DENVER,
In Georgetown, Central Citj- and Denver, Colorado.
A. M. SMITH, H. RIDDLE,
Gcn'l Pass. Agt., Chicago. Qen'l Stipt., Chicago.
Li. VI£L£, General Freight Agent, Chicago
S. S. STEVENS.
Gen'l Agt., Council Bliifld
ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
GENTIiZSiaXSN'S
i§m
m
im^m^M'M'r
•^^^''' ^■<w;-'-\.^
A SPECIALTY.
We import the largest stock of fine woolens for men's
wear in America. We make them to measure in the most
thorou'gh, artistic style, at the LOWEST PRICES possi-
ble for the article furnished.
American Livery Artistically Furnished.
eniBT© W® MHAPWBH
Extra Durable and Perfect in Pit.
W
Tailor, Draper and Importer of Fine Woolens
for Men's Wear,
S and ^ Washington St.,
CHICAGO, - - - ILLINOIS.
Clergymen, 6 per cent, discount.
Established in Chicago in 1851.
THE
Rocky Mouniain Directory^
AND
For iSyiy
Comprising a brief history of Colorado, and a condensed but comprehensive
account of her Mining, Agricultural, Commercial and Manufactur-
ing Interests, Climatology, Inhabitants, Advantages and
Industries, together with a complete and accurate
DIRECTORY
Denver, Golden City, Black Hawk, Central City, Nevada, Idaho, Georgetown,
Boulder, Greeley, Colorado City, Pueblo, Trinidad, Etc.
^ir%t Qbht af j^ttbluaiian.
S. S. "WALIilHAN & COMPANY,
COMPILEKS AND PUBLISHERS
DENVER.
This gradual and continuous progress of the European races
towards the Rocky Mountains, has the solemnity of a providential
event. It is like a deluge of men rising unabatedly, and daily
driven onward by the hand of God.
De Tocqueville.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year of our Lord 1870 , by
S. S. WALLIHAN & COMPANY,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
HOUNDS & KANE,
Printers, Binders, and Electrotjpers,
CHICAGO, ILL.
TO OUR PATRONS.
The unlooked-for delay in the publication of this work, as well as some
^ material changes in its contents from what was originally designed, require
•0 brief explanation. Our best apology for the delay is the size, superior
.^ of typographical execution, style of binding and finish, and the extra value
\ the contents of the GtAZETTEEr. However, the time necessarily consumed
■^j in collecting the amount we present of historical, statistical and directory
matter must be considerable, and no publishing house, however extensive
^4 and complete, can do hurriedly this style of printing, electrotyping and
V, binding. Besides, a large amount of the proof of copy had to be sent to
I the senior editor, at Denver, for correction, which of course caused much
waste of time, which has been farther increased by the serious illness of the
^ junior editor, who superintended the publication of the work in Chicago.
fs: We trust these brief explanations, in connection with the superiority of our
* work, will be considered suitable excuse for apparent delay.
About the changes in character of contents, we have been compelled to
1^ omit all biographical matter and many personal sketches concerning the
*sf earlier settlers of the country, for lack of space. The historical, geo-
i graphical, geological and directory matter, together with a description of
J mines and mining, have taken up so much space that none remains for
less important though perhaps more interesting subjects. In our next
issue we will make ample provisions for what we are compelled to omit in
this. For your great liberality in aiding in our arduous enterprise, which
we trust will largely benefit our favored country, you have our hearty and
sincere thanks.
S. S. WALLIHAN,
T. 0. BIGNEY,
Editors and Publishers.
INTRODUCTORY,
Colorado is just now attracting a more general and earnest attention
than any other section of the new West.
Colonies are flocking to her borders.
Railways are girdling the continent with iron tram-ways, in the race to
tap her coffers.
Her agricultural and pastoral possibilities are unlimited.
Her mineral wealth is exhaustless and incalculable.
Her manufacturing facilities are scarcely inferior to those of factory-
fostering New England.
Her climate is delightful. Invalids here find a bahn for their hurts,
and healing for their disease-smitten souls.
Poets, artists and tourists grow enthusiastic over the magnificence of her
natural scenery.
While these facts are daily becoming more widely appreciated, no satis-
factory and sufficiently practical Guide Book, or Gazetteer, giving detailed
and reliable information concerning the resources and advantages of this
interesting and rapidly developing region, has yet been published.
We have no other apology to offer for the appearance of this book.
While no pains have been spared to make the work complete and accu-
rate, some mistakes will inevitably occur in the first, which will be corrected
in future issues.
The Directory portion is as complete as it is possible to make such a
work in a country so sparsely inhabited. Doubtless, some names will have
been omitted ; others will be incorrect in orthography, on account of the
impossibility of making a second canvass to correct the unavoidable errors
of the first.
Those who have so generously aided us, during the progress of the work,
will be ever gratefully remembered. The few who have opposed and hin-
dered our enterprise, are already forgotten by
The Publishers.
CONTENTS.
GENERAL DIVISIONS.
Introduction, etc. — General History — Mines and Mining —
Observations — Description of Cities and Towns, with Gen-
eral and Business Directories and Advertisements — Chicago
Business Directory and Advertisements — Appendix.
Introduction, Etc 1-16
GENERAL HISTORY.
Discovery and Earliest Settlement 17-23
Forms op Government Previous to Territorial Organi-
zation 23-29
geography.
Introduction 29, 30
Rocky Mountains , 30,31
Foot-hills 31
Other ranges 32,33
Parks 33-35
Plains 35, 36
Rivers 36-39
counties.
Arapahoe 39,40
Boulder 40-42
Clear Creek 42-45
Gilpin 45-47
Park 47-50
Summit 50,51
Jefferson 52, 53
Douglas 54, 55
Lake , 55-57
Fremont 57
Huerfano 57
Costilla 57,58
VI CONTENTS.
Conejos 58
Saguache 58, 59
Bent 59
Greenwood 59
Pueblo 59-61
Las Animas 61
Dick Irwin on Southern Colorado 61-62
Larimer 63
Weld 63,64
County Seats — Population — Acres in Cultivation — Total Valuation
of Property in Counties 64
GEOtOGY.
Introductory 65
First Division — Plains to the Base of the Foot-hills 65-83
Second Division — Foot-hills, the Main Range and Its Spurs, and
South Park 84-89
Third Division — Mountains, Valleys and Parks West of the Range 89-97
Fossil Insects Discovered in the Territory 97-100
List of Metals and Minerals 100-103
CLIMATOLOGY.
General Remarks 1 03-105
Colorado as a Resort for Invalids 105-111
Inhabitants 111-113
Agriculture 113, 114
railroads.
Denver Pacific Railway 115, 116
Union Pacific Railroad 116-119
Kansas Pacific Railway 119-121
Denver and Boulder Valley Railroad 121, 122
Colorado Central Railroad 123
Denver and Rio Grande Railway 123, 124
Southern Overland Mail and Express Company 124,125
Wagon Roads 125-127
Telegraph Lines 128
colonies.
Introductory 128, 129
Union 129-131
German 131
Chicago-Colorado 131, 132
Southwestern 132, 133
CONTENTS. vii
RELIGIOUS.
Introductory 133 134
Episcopal Church 134. 135
Methodist Church 135-138
Catholic Church 138, 139
Presbyterian Church I39 140
Public Schools 140, 141
societies.
Miners' and Mechanics' Institute, Central 141, 142
St. James Library Association, Central 142 143
Territorial Library 143, I44
Colorado Agricultural Society 144, 145
Boulder County Agricultural Society 145
Ford Park Association 145, 146
Turners 146, 174
Masonic 147-149
Odd Fellows 149
Good Templars 149, 150
O. A. R 150
Other Societies 150
Military Posts , 150
MINES AND MINING.
Introduction 151, 152
Discovery op Gold 152-156
Discovery of Silver 156,157
Prospecting 158, 159
practical mining.
General Remarks 159
Lode Mining 159-169
Gulch and Placer Mining 169-172
DESCRIPTION OP MINES.
Introductory 173
Lodes of Gilpin County, alphabetically arranged 174-185
Lodes of Clear Creek County, alphabetically arranged 186-207
Lodes of Boulder County, alphabetically arranged 208-213
Lodes of Summit County, alphabetically arranged 214, 215
Lodes of Lake County, alphabetically arranged 216
MISCELLANEOUS MINES.
Introductory 217-221
Description of Miscellaneous Mines 222, 223
Viii CONTENTS.
CHARACTER, TREATMENT AND VALUE OF ORES.
Character of Ores 226, 227
Treatment of Gold Ores 227-233
Description of Stamp Mills, Gilpin County 233-235
Clear Creek 235
Treatment of Silver Ores 236, 237
Reduction Works 237, 238
Concentration of Ores. 239,240
Other Reduction Works 240
Value of Ores 240-243
Swindling and Unsuccessful Mining Operations 244-247
OBSERVATIONS.
Scenery 248,249
To Immigrants and Colonists 250-252
To Tourists 252
First Impressions not Always Correct 253, 254
Purity of Atmosphere 254
Territorial 254-256
HISTORY OF CITIES, WITH DIRECTORIES, ETC.
Denver, History of 257-261
Denver General Directory 261-300
Denver Business Directory 300-31 8
Golden. History of 319-321
Golden General Directory 321-328
Golden Business Directory 328-332
Black Hawk, History of 332-835
Black Hawk General Directory 335-340
Black Hawk Business Directory 340-343
Central, History of 343-345
Central General Directory 345-356
Central Business Directory 356-360
Nevada, History of. 360
Nevada General Directory 361-365
Nevada Business Directory 365-367
Idaho Springs, History of. 367-372
Idaho Springs Directory 372-375
Georgetown, History of. 375-377
Georgetown General Directory 377-383
Georgetown Business Directory 383-386
Boulder, History of. 386
Boulder Directory 387-390
Greeley, History of 390
Greeley Directory 390-394
Burlington, History of 394
Burlington Directory 394-396
Valmont, History of 396
CONTENTS.
IX
Valmont Directory 3gg
Trinidad, History of. 397 393
Trinidad Directory 399-403
Pueblo, History of. 4O4
Pueblo General Directory 404-408
Pueblo Business Directory 409 410
Kit Carson, History and Directory 4X1
Colorado City, History of. 412
Colorado City Business Directory 4I3
Grand Island District 4I4 415
Caribou City 415' 416
Keysport 416
Haddairi 4I7
Chicago Business Notices 418-431
APPENDIX.
Gilpin County 432,433
Clear Creek County 433
Arapahoe County 433, 434
Boulder County 434,435
The Press 435,436
Mountain Ranches 436,437
Tunnels 437,438
0. K. Silver Lode 438
Pueblo 438
Pike's Peak 438
Mines and Mining 439
"Old Sulphurets" 439
Errata 440-442
LIST OF ADVERTISERS
DENVER.
Armstrong & McClaskey, Saddles, Harness, etc.
Ballin Charles, Dry and Millinery Goods.
Bailey Joseph L., Proprietor Corral and Stock Yard.
Bender L., Proprietor Denver Soap Works.
Belden & Powers, Attorneys at Law.
Bennett P., Attorney at Law.
Broadwell House.
Brooks Orson, General Insurance Agent.
Brinker Isaac & Co., Wholesale and retail Grocers.
Brunswick S., Jewelry.
Browne, Harrison & Putnam, Attorneys at Law.
Bucklin & Clark, Staple and Fancy Groceries.
Burton H., Boston Shoe Store.
Byers W. N., Notary Public.
Camp Z. M., Proprietor Gale's Patent Peanut and Coffee Roaster.
Camelleri Nick, Proprietor Denver Pacific Dining Rooms.
Carr S. H., Proprietor jMammoth Corral and Carr House.
California Powder Works.
Cheesman W. S., Wholesale and Retail Druggists.
Chain & McCartney, Stationers, etc.
Chamberlain W. G., Denver Photograph Rooms.
Chalfant, Cox & Co., Hosiery, Notions, etc.
Cone A. T. Mrs., Hair Goods, etc.
Cowell W., Groceries, Wines and Liquors.
Colorado Central Railroad.
Cornforth B., Wholesale Grocer.
Colorado National Bank.
Colorado Stage Company.
Crater & Cobb, Real Estate, Insurance and General Agents.
Crater David W., Attorney at Law.
Cramer & Nyce, Contractors and Builders.
Daugherty E., Marble Works.
Daniels & Eckhart, Wholesale and Retail Dry Goods and Carpets.
Denver Brewing Company.
Denver Woolen Manufacturing Company.
Denver Transfer Line.
Denver City Dining Rooms, George T. Breed, Proprietor.
Denver Theatre, J. S. Langrishe, Proprietor. ,
LIST OF ADVERTISERS. xi
Denver Pacific Railway.
Denver Dollar Store.
Denver Tribune.
Dietsch & Brother, Proprietors New York Store.
Douglas J. W., Wholesale and Retail Dealer in Queensware, etc.
Doolittle J. K., Dry Goods. Hats, Caps, Boots, Shoes, etc.
Duhem & Brother, Art Gallery.
Fawcett Richard, Civil Engineer and Surveyor.
Farrar A. & Co., Agents Wheeler & Wilson Sewing Machines.
Fink John P. & Co., Wholesale and Retail Boots and Shoes.
First National Bank of Denver.
Ford House.
France & Rogers, Attorneys at Law.
Freund & Brother, Sportsmen's Depot.
Geary R. H., Fresh Meat and Game.
Gill & Cass, Real Estate Brokers.
Grant S. A., Wholesale and Retail Booksellers and Stationers.
Greenleaf & Co., Cigars, Tobacco, etc.
Green H. R., Sash, Doors, Blinds, etc.
Hallack E. F., Lumber, Sash, Doors, etc.
Hauck C. C, Watchmaker and Jeweler.
Hatten House.
Hartman C. R., Livery, Feed and Sale Stable.
Hamilton H. H. & Co., Music Dealers.
Hannibal & St. Joe Railroad.
Hense & Gottesleben, Wholesale and Retail Jewelers.
Horner J. W., Attorney at Law.
Horner J. W., & Co., Real Estate Brokers.
Hussey Warren, Banker.
Ingols A. B., Jeweler and Dealer in Clocks and Silverware.
Jackson James W., Proprietor Denver Foundry and Machine Shop.
Jones John S., Pork Packing House and Dealer in Coal, Grain, etc.
Johnson B. F. & Co., Real Estate and Insurance Agents.
Johnson C, Boots Shoes and Rubber Goods.
Kansas & Pacific Railway.
Kassler G. W. & Co., Wholesale and Retail Tobacco, Cigars, etc., and
Stationery.
Kassler & Cram, Insurance Agents.
Kansas City Fire and Marine Insurance Company.
Kenyon Joseph, Wholesale and Retail Wines, Liquors, etc.
Kerr H. W., Wholesale and Retail Tobacco, Cigars, etc.
Knowlton & Dickey, Queensware and China.
Lee & McMullin, Farm Implements.
Levy W. W., Wholesale and Retail Wines, Cigars and Tobacco.
Leach C. C, Sign and Carriage Painter.
Lennon John A. & Son, Merchant Tailors.
Livingston & Schram, Hardware, Stoves, etc.
Leubbers Henry A., Civil Engineer and Architect.
Mayer George & Co., Stoves, Tinware, etc.
Matthews & Reser, Real Estate and Loan Agents.
Maguire & Brother, Upholsterers, Cabinet Makers and Undertakers.
XU LIST OF ADVERTISERS.
Marix-Mayer M., M. D.
Merriman Brothers, Sewing Machine and Safe Agents.
Melvin House.
Michael H. W. & Co., Wholesale and Retail Hardware.
Miller J. A. & Co., Forwarding and Commission Merchants.
Missouri Life Insurance Company.
Mowbray R. C, Dentist.
Myers William, Wagons and Farm Implements.
McCormic & Shallcross, Pharmacy.
McKnight, Green & Co., Key Stone Iron Works.
McPhee C D., Carpenter and Builder.
McClure Alvin, Wholesale and Retail Paints, Oils, Varnish, Glass, etc.
Nathan S., Wholesale and Retail Dry Goods and Clothing.
Nye Forwarding and Commission Company. "^
Osgood W. T., Whol. and Retail Hats, Caps, Gents' Furnishing Goods.
Parkhurst Brewery.
People's Restaurant.
Peabody D. G., Clothing and Dry Goods, Buggies and Carriages.
Pooler C E., Wholesale and Retail Foreign and Domestic Fruits.
Potter Charles, Billiard Hall.
Piitz Madame Eugenie, Milliner and Dressmaker.
Reithmann & Co., Wholesale and Retail Druggists.
Reichard & Winne, General Insurance Agents.
Richards James W. k Co-, City Transfer.
Richardson W., Boston Cracker Manufactory.
Riethmann L. D. & Co., Groceries, Wines, Liquors and Produce.
Rosenbloom I;, Merchant Tailor.
Roberts & James, Hardware, etc.
Rogers & Smedley, Dentists.
Rocky Mountain News.
Rocky Mountain Herald.
Salomon Brothers, Wholesale and Retail Grocers.
Sanderlin E. J., Bath House and Barber Shop.
Sayre Alfred, Attorney at Law.
Sargent & Trimble, Commission Merchants.
Schrader & Co., Eating House and Saloon.
Schleier George C, Real Estate Agent and Notary Public.
Schuler J., Confectioner.
Slaughter Wm. M., Attorney at Law.
Smith & Doll, Furniture.
Smith Alex., Wholesale and Retail Groceries and Provisions.
Southwestern Colony.
Spencer & Marchant, Harness, Saddles, etc.
Sprague & Webb, Groceries, Provisions and Fruits.
Stanton Fred. J., Surveyor, Draftsman and Law Claim Agent.
St. Mary's Academy.
Strickler & Mahar, Auction and Commission Merchants.
Stevenson Mary Mrs., Cigars, Tobacco, etc.
Steinhauer & Walbrach, Wholesale and Retail Druggists.
Tayler C. M., Wholesale and Retail Grocers.*
Taylor F. C, Proprietor Highland Nursery. "
LIST OF ADVERTISERS. xiu
Tappan & Co., Wholesale and Retail Hardware and Agricultural Imple-
ments.
Thompson W. C, Proprietor Clifton Boarding House.
Tritch Geo., Wholesale and Retail Shelf Hardware, Woodenware, etc.
Townsend M. H., Notary Public and Commissioner of Deeds.
Trounstine Phil., Proprietor "0. K." Clothing Store.
Tremont House.
Thayer H. L., Publisher Thayer's Map.
Tynon James, Hides and Wool.
Union Pacific Railroad.
Wallihan S. S., Agent Northwestern Life Insurance and Publisher
Rocky Mountain Directory.
Walker Wm. S., Wholesale Wines, Liquors and Cigars.
Wanless George P., Insurance Agent.
Washington House.
Whitsitt R. E. Real Estate Agent.
Witter Hiram, Real Estate Dealer.
Witter Daniel, Attorney at Law.
Woeber A. & Co., Carriage Manufactory.
Woolworth, Moffatt & Clarke, Wholesale and Retail Stationery
Zell's Encyclopedia, L. E. Brooks, Agent.
CENTRAL.
Barclay & Co., Contractors and Builders.
Burlingame E. E., Assayer.
Burrell James, Notary Public.
Butler Hugh, Attorney at Law.
Central Register, Collier & Hall, Proprietors.
Chaffee Jerome B. <fc Co., Bankers.
Charpiot J., French Restaurant.
Colorado Herald, Thos. J. Campbell, Proprietor.
Connor House, C Wentworth, Proprietor.
Cremer N., Billiard Hall.
Day John, Gunsmith.
Dupont Powder Co., Foster Nichols, Agent.
Fink John P. & Co., Boots and Shoes.
Freas L. M., Groceries and Provisions.
Giddings E. J., Insurance Agent.
Hazard Powder Co., J. 0. Raynolds, Agent.
Jones William, Proprietor Billiard Hall and Saloon.
Kennedy W. R., attorney at Law.
National Hotel, R. B. Smock, Proprietor.
Pitts J. W. Brewer.
Post C. C, Attorney at Law.
Rocky Mountain National Bank.
Sessler & Seaur, Wholesale Grocers.
Shultz A. Von, Assayer.
Smith J. Alden, Assayer.
Thatcher, Standley & Co., Bankers.
The "Pharmacy," John ]3est, Proprietor.
Xiv LIST OF ADVERTISERS.
GEORGETO-WN.
Barton House, Wm. Barton, Proprietor.
Bailey & Nott, Livery, Sale and Feed Stable.
Burdsal C W., General Merchants, Lower Greorgetown.
Chaffee Jerome B. & Co., Bankers.
Colorado Miner, A. W. Barnard, Proprietor.
Curtis A. F., Hardware, Tinware and Stationery.
Doyle House, Dan. Doyle, Proprietor.
Fish C. K,., Notary Public and Druggist.
Fillius Brothers, Groceries, Provisions, etc.
Freas L. M., Groceries, Provisions, etc.
Guard Brothers, Butchers.
Harrington H. G., Notary Public and Conveyancer.
Heywood & Co., Boots, Shoes, Hosiery, etc.
Johnson Albert, Civil and Mining Engineer.
Marshall E. G., Cigars and Tobacco.
3IcCoy House, J. 3IcCoy, Proprietor.
Mills J. K., Groceries and Provisions.
Moor Chas. H., Analytical Chemist.
Pollard Chas. W., Hardware, Groceries and Provisions.
Smith James & Bro., Boots, Shoes and Hosiery.
Spruance & Love, General Merchants.
Townsend C 0., Barber and Hair Dresser.
Wood & Cree, Cigars, Tobacco and Stationery.
BLACK HAW^K.
Black Hawk Billiard Hall and Saloon, Charles Stienle, Proprietor.
Boston Cracker Factory and Bakery, A. G. Rhoades, Proprietor.
Hughes Ed. E., Meat Market.
Kelly Thomas, Groceries and Provisions.
McLaughlin William, Harness and Saddles.
Mountain House, P. B. Wright, Proprietor.
Orahood & Nesmith, Druggists.
Rudolph C. G., Watches, Clocks and Jewelry.
Seiwell Ed. A., Druggist.
St. Charles Hotel, James H. Sutherland, Proprietor.
St. Charles Livery Stable. Wm. Germain, Proprietor.
Star Hair Dressing and Shaving Saloon, F. R. Walden, Proprietor.
Vosburg H., Fruit Dealer.
Walden F. R., Hair Dresser, etc.
Warner & Scobey, Wines and Liquors.
PUEBLO.
Barndollar Ferd. & Co., Forwarding and Commission Merchants, etc.
Colorado Chieftain, Lambert & Co., Proprietors.
Cooper Brothers, Hardware.
Hyde & Kretschmer, Blacksmiths and Wagonmakers.
Peabody & Jordan, Dry Goods, etc.
Thatcher Brothers & Co., Dry Goods, etc.
Thatcher Brothers, Bankers.
Thatcher J. A. & M. D., Dry Goods, Wholesale and Retail.
LIST OF ADVERTISERS.
XV
IDAHO SPRINGS.
Beebee House, F. W. Beebee, Proprietor.
Cowell & Patten, General Merchants.
Fall River House, Austin & Easley, Proprietors, Spanish Bar.
Faivre Dennis, General Merchants.
Mammoth Bath House, J. H. Phillips, Proprietor.
Montague H., Proprietor Ocean Bath House.
Springs' House, John N. Harden, Proprietor.
Theobold Peter, General Merchant.
Warner J. H., Proprietor Billiard Hall.
BOULDER CITY.
Boulder House, G. C. Squires, Proprietor.
Colorado House, E. Pound, Proprietor.
Mackey A. J., Broker.
Red Rock Mills, S. Douty, Proprietor.
Sommers Wilhelm, Meat and Vegetables.
Squires F. A., Dry Goods, Groceries, etc.
Westlake W. B., Wines, Liquors and Cigars.
NEVADA.
Haskins Henry, Hotel.
Haswell W. H., Drugs and Medicines.
Keystone Meat Market, J. W. Grow, Proprietor.
Ratliflf J. W., Notary Public.
Shanstrom J. A. & P. G., Butchers, etc.
Vietor & Gunther, Union Bakery, and Groceries and Provisions.
GOLDEN.
Carter T. J. & Co., Bankers.
Colorado Transcript, Geo. West, Editor and Proprietor.
Chicago Hall, Wines and Liquors, C. H. Judkins, Proprietor.
Doolittle Thos. S., Livery Stable.
Golden House, Chas. S. Abbott, Proprietor.
Rock Flouring Mills, 0. F. Barber, Proprietor.
TRINIDAD.
Baird & Boyles, Attorneys at Law.
Barraclough H. A,, General Merchandise.
Davis & Sherman, Groceries, etc.
Prowers & Hough, General Merchandise.
Wooten R. L., Jr., General Merchandise.
United States Hotel, W. G. Rifenburg, Proprietor.
BURLINGTON.
Beekwith & Co., Produce, etc.
Burlington House, J. M. Smith, Proprietor.
City Hotel, Mrs. Mary A. Allen.
Newman E. B. Blacksmith.
Streeter & Turrell, Drugs and Groceries.
OMAHA, NEB.
First National Bank.
Omaha Smelting Works.
XVI
LIST OF ADVERTISERS.
ST. LOUIS.
St. Nicholas Hotel, E. Jennings, Proprietor.
St. Louis and Peoria Plow Co., St. Louis and Kansas City.
St. Louis Novelty Works.
Indianapolis & St. Louis Railroad.
CHICAGO-COLORADO COLONY-LONGMONT.
Gillette M. Gr., Hardware and Agricultural Implements.
Terry & Bliss, Lumberman.
COLORADO CITY.
Gehrung Emile, Groceries and Drugs.
GREELEY.
Plumb Ovid, Farmers' Exchange.
VALMONT.
Peters A. W., Physician and Surgeon.
FAIR PLAY.
Janes A. N., General Merchant.
SANTA FE, N. M.
Neio Mexican, Manderfield & Tucker, Proprietors.
NEW YORK.
Rowell Geo. P. & Co., Advertisino; Aj'ents.
CHICAGO.
Atkins & Burgess, Steam Engines, etc.
Austin & Boyington, Patent Machine-
Made Rope Molding.
Avery, Murphy & Co., Lumber, Lath, etc.
Batchelder J. B., Photographic Materials.
Banks W. H., Hay and Cotton Press.
Babcock Fire Extinguisher.
Boyington k Son, Jewelry.
Bowen, Hunt & Winslow, Dry Goods.
Bradley & Banks, Agricultural Impl'ts.
Brunswick J. M. & Bro.; Billiard Tables.
Brunswick E., Billiard Tables, etc.
Chicago & Alton Railroad.
Chicago, Burlington (i Quincy Railroad.
Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad.
Chicago Gold and Silver Quartz Reduc-
ing and Separating Co.
Chicago Vise and Tool Co., Tools, etc.
Chicago Iron Works, Letz & Co.
Crane Bros., Foundry and Iron Works.
Eaton Collins, agt. Ames' Steam Engine.
Eagle Works Manufacturing Co.
Ely Edward, Draper and Tailor.
Gents' Furnishing Goods.
Esmay, Simmons & Co., Whol. Liquors.
Foster Thos., Lumber, Lath and Shingles.
Furst & Bradley, Mnfrs. of Plows, etc.
Forsman J. A., Mill Furnishing.
Gardner J. E., Artificial Legs and Arms.
Garden City Mnfg. and Supply Co.
Government Goods' Depot.
Goss & Phillips' Mnfg. Co., Sash, Doors,
Blinds, etc.
Harris S. H., Safes.
Hatch, Holbrook & Co., Hardwood Lum-
ber, etc.
Heeney & Campbell, Lumber, Doors, etc.
Hearson & Payn, Hand Rails, Stairs, etc.
Hubbard G. & Co., Ship Chandlers, etc.
Illinois Central Railroad.
Kane Geo. B. & Co., Printing Inks.
Mariner G. A., Assayer.
Meyer C. J. L., Sash, Doors, Blinds, etc.
Nevada House.
Noye Wm. F., Mill Furnisher.
Novelty Carriage Works, T. H. Brown.
Palmer, Fuller & Co., Doors, Sash, etc.
Phelps, Veale & Co., Miners' Tools.
Porter H. B., Annunciators, etc.
Pittsburgh & Fort Wayne Railroad.
Republic Life Insurance Co.
Piounds & Kane, Book and Job Printers.
Savage & Bro., Engine Builders, etc.
Schell H. A., Paper Boxes.
Schultz Henry, Paper Boxes.
Tansill R. W., Cigars.
Thomas G. G., Ivory Goods.
Western Bank Note and Engraving Co.
Western Star Metal Co., Brass Foundry.
Williams Charles R., Gen. Agt. Rocky
Mountain Directory and Colobado
Gazetteer.
GENERAL HISTORY.
DISCOVERY AND EARLIEST SETTLEMENT.
The first explorers of that portion of the North American continent
now embraced within the boundaries of Colorado Territory, were undoubt-
edly Spaniards and Mexicans — adventurers from New Spain. The first well
authenticated account of the discovery of the mountain ranges, plateaus,
streams, valleys and plains that form the diversified physical features of thi;:^
vast Territory, Ls the record of Vasques Coranada, a Spanish military cap-
tain. The expeditioB which he commanded was fitted out at the capital of
Sinaloa, a province of New Spain, by order of Viceroy Mendoca, the repre-
sentative of the Spanish crown in New Spain, now Mexico, and was com-
posed of over 300 Spaniards and 800 Indians. They were well armed and
equipped, and commenced their explorations early in the year 1540.
From Sinaloa, this expedition proceeded northward to the base of the
mountains — through canons to the source of the Gila — crossing mountains
to the Rio del Norte, and up this stream to San Luis valley. From thence,
they made their way over the Sangre de Cristo pass, to the great plains, in
what is now Southern Colorado, and thence northward along the base of the
mountains, and often far up their deep canons, until a point about the 40th
north parallel of latitude was reached. These adventurers had to contend
with all the usual difficulties that surround such enterprises in a wild country,
traversed by innumerable streams and towering mountain ranges, and in
many places infested with hostile savages. After months of fatiguing
marches, attended with unusual danger and hardships, they were compelled
to return to New Spain without accomplishing the object of their explora-
tion — the discovery of gold. They had, however, passed over some of the
richest deposits of gold in the known world, and explored a region unsur-
passed in fertility of soil, and beauty and grandeur of scenery — all of which
is now within the boundaries of Colorado.
The report of Coranada was published, and is now filed away in the
archives of Old Spain, and perhaps has a place in some American libraries,
but we have not been able to procure a copy, and give this sketch from a
verbal statement given us by a pioneer of the Territory. Traditions of this
expedition are related by many of the old settlers of New Mexico and Colo-
rado, who also talk of the exploration of Mexican padres, who proceeded as
far northward as the Missouri river, which they described as a dead, slug-
gish river, with muddy waters, not fordable. Tradition further asserts that
2
18 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
these Mexicans were more successful than Coranada, and actually discovered
gold in considerable quantities; formed settlements, and built towns; but
were eventually unable to withstand the continued assaults of hostile Indians,
and abandoned the country. There is some show of truth in these legends,
as there is un((uestionable evidence, in the southern portion of the Territory
especially, of the existence, at no very remote period, of inhabitants more
learned in the arts of civilization, than aboriginal races. There is also evi-
dence that placer diggings had been carried on in the Territory long before
the discovery of gold in 1858. This may, however, have been the work of
Indians, though it is the belief of the earlier settlers that the Mexicans or
Spanish took out gold from Spanish Bar, on Clear creek, long before the
arrival of Jackson and his party in 1859.
The failure of the Coranada expedition seems to have discouraged the
Spanish government, and we have no further accounts of authorized explora-
tions from New Spain proceeding any further north than the Rio del Norte.
This Territory was, at that time, supposed by the Spanish crown to be a por-
tion of its North American possessions, but no boundaries were established, or
any rightful claim maintained. The first record we have of this vast region
being embraced in any particular province, is the claim established by the
French colony of Louisiana, early in 1600. The vast region, which formerly
comprised this dependency of France, was bounded on the north and east
by the British North American possessions and Atlantic ocean, and on the
south and west by the Gulf of Mexico, New Spain and California. Actu-
ally, the first discovery of this region was made by the Spanish, in its extreme
western portion, as Coranada's expedition preceeded Ferdinand De Soto's, but
usually the discovery of Louisiana is attributed to De Soto, who traversed a
portion of the valley of the 3Iississippi in 15-41. These vast and fertile
regions were more fully explored by Col. Wood in 165-4, and visited by
Capt. Bolt in 1670, and M. de-la-Salle in 1682. The first settlers were
French colonists, who located upon the banks of the lower Mississippi and
Red rivers, and on the Gulf of Mexico. In November, 1762, France ceded
to Spain, then in her zenith of wealth, power and prosperity, this extensive
province. The measure was strongly opposed by the French colonists, and
Spain did not obtain full possession until the 17th of August, 1769. The
French population of Louisiana galled under the yoke of Spanish authority,
and never rested until they regained their allegiance to the French, which
was effected October 1, 1800. But Louisiana did not long remain a French
province. By treaty and purchase, during the presidency of Thomas Jeffer-
son, the 3d day of April, 1803, the United States became the rightful pos-
sessor of this rich and almost unbounded colony, and soon took measures to
develop its unrivalled resources, and establish authority and government in
due form over a vast extent of country, heretofore controlled, in the main,
by savage Indian tribes. During the years which passed while France and
Spain possessed Louisiana, but little was known of the middle and western
part of the province, and the vast plains had not been crossed by any white
adventurer who has left any record of his discoveries. As soon as United
States authority was fully established, attention was directed to the vast
extent of country between the Mississippi and Red rivers, and the discovery
of the source of these rivers, and the Missouri and Arkansas, in the great
mountains west of the plains, was determined upon by the authorities at
Washinjrton.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 19
The first expedition equipped by the War Department, under orders
from Gen. James Wilkinson, commander-in-chief of the ai-my, for the pur-
pose of exploring the comparatiYely unknown regions beyond the oreat
plains, and the sources of the Arkansas and Red rivers, was commanded by
Zebulon M. Pike, then a lieutenant in the United States army, but who, after
his return from this expedition, was promoted to the rank of Major, as a
reward for the skillful and daring manner in which his explorations were
conducted. Major Pike was assisted by Lieut. James B. Wilkinson and
Dr. J. Robinson. His party, composed of twenty-three men and officers,
left Bellefontaine, July 15, 1806; and after many adventures, reached the
Arkansas at a point near the mouth of the Pawnee Fork, on the 27th day
of October, 1806. From this place, he detached from his small command,
Lieut. Wilkinson and five men, to make a reconnoisance to the mouth of the
Arkansas, which was accomplished successfully. With the remainder of his
command, Maj. Pike continued his journey in search of the source of the Ar-
kansas and the great mountains that form the western boundary of the plains.
The first view of the mountains was obtained on the loth of November,
1806. We quote from Maj. Pike's diary, of that date: '-At two o'clock
in the afternoon, I thought I could distinguish a mountain to our right,
which appeared like a small blue cloud. Viewed it with the spy-glass, and
■was still more confirmed in my conjecture, yet only communicated it to Dr.
Robinson, who was in front with me; but in half an hour, they appeared in
full view before us. When our small party arrived on the hill, they with
one accord gave three cheers for the Mexican mountain."
Near the point from which the mountains were first discovered on the
Greenhorn river, a tributary of the Arkansas, (at that time named St.
Charles by Maj. Pike), a small fort was constructed, and a portion of the
party left for its defense. With the remainder, Maj. Pike proceeded in a
northwesterly direction toward the Grand Peak, now named Pike's Peak,
in honor of its first American discoverer. From the same diary, November
17, 1806, we make the following extract, which will be readily understood
by all Colorado tourists: "Marched at our usual hour, pushed with an idea
of arriving at the mountains; but found at night no visible diflFerence in
their appearance from what we did yesterday."
From the same, November 25, we quote: "Marched early, with expec-
tation of ascending the mountain, but was only able to camp at its base,
after passing over many small hills, covered with cedars and pitch pines."
Maj. Pike writes, on the 27th of November: "Arose hungry and dry, and
extremely sore, from the inequality of the rocks on which we had lain all
night, but were amply compensated for the toil by the sublimity of the pros-
pect below. The unbounded prairie was overhung with clouds, which
appeared like the ocean in a storm — wave piled on wave, and foaming, while
the sky was perfectly clear where we were. Commenced our march up the
mountain, and in about one hour arrived at the summit of this chain. Here
we found snow middle deep; no sign of beast or birds inhabiting the region.
The thermometer, which stood at nine degrees above zero at the foot of ^he
mountains, here fell to four below. The summit of the Grand Peak, which
was entirely bare of vegetation, and covered with snow, now appeared at the
distance of fifteen or sixteen miles from us, and as high again as what we
had ascended, and would have taken a whole day's march to arrive at its
base, where, I believe, no human being could have ascended to its pinnacle."
20 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
On the 3d of December, Maj. Pike continues: "Dr. Robinson and
myself went out and took the altitude of the north mountain, (now Pike's
Peak,) on the base of a mile. The perpendicular height of the mountain,
from the level of the prairie, was 10,581 feet, and admitting the prairie was
8,000 feet from the level of the sea, it would make the elevation of this
peak 18.581 feet." He adds, "This mountain was so remarkable as to be
known to all the savage nations for hundreds of miles around, and to be
spoken of with admiration by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and was the
bounds of their travels northwest."
Maj. Pike's measurement of the altitude of the peak has since been
proven incorrect, being too high by over 3,000 feet, but no overestimate can
be made of the importance of his discovery, which first attracted attention
to these remarkable regions, now known to be extremely rich in mineral
deposits and agricultural resources, and already the home of over 60,000
prosperous people. The first name very appropriately given to this country,
after the discovery of gold, Wiis the "Pike's Peak gold regions." To this
bold explorer, Maj. Zebulon Pike, whom no dangers or hardships could deter
from the rigid discharge of duty, or vigorous prosecution of his explorations,
the citizens of Colorado are indebted for the discovery of their rich and
beautiful Territory, and should award all honor.
After failing in his attempts to ascend the Grand Peak, Maj. Pike and
his party returned to the plains, and continued their explorations in a north-
westerly direction, along the base of the mountains. The ascent of one of
northwestern tributaries of the Arkansas to its source, brought the party to
the "Divide." which was crossed, when a stream, forty yards in width, flow-
ing northeast, was discovered, (December 13). This was, without doubt,
the south fork of the Platte. After fording this stream, the journey north-
westward was continued over plains, across mountains, and through deep
canons, until the 18th of December, when another river was discovered,
twenty-five yards in width, which "ran with great rapidity, and was filled
with rocks." This, Maj. Pike first supposed to be the Red river, the source
of which was the object of their continued search — but afterward acknowl-
edged his mistake, and pronunced and mapped it the Pierre Jaunor, the
Yellow Stone of to-day, a branch of the Missouri.
This river has since been considered by Col. Fremont and others, not the
Yellow Stone, but the Grand river (near its source), a tributary of the Great
Colorado, which empties its vast accumulation of waters into the Gulf of
California. According to this theory, Maj. Pike has the honor of being
the first American explorer who discovered the head waters of this famous
river, and the second that crossed the main range that crowns the Atlantic
and Pacific slopes of the continent.
Being now fully convinced that the object so diligently sought for, the
source of the Red River of Louisiana, must be further south, their course
was shaped accordingly. The suff"ering of the party at this time was extreme.
They were in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, in mid-winter, without
warm clothing or blankets — the latter had been cut up to make stockings
to protect their feet as much as possible. Still the search was continued
southward until the Rio del Norte was reached, and Maj. Pike found
himself and party Spanish prisoners.
This brief account of the portion of these explorations which refer to
parts of the country traveled over, that are now within the boundaries of
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 21
Colorado, shows that nearly its entire extent, north and south, was traveled,
without meeting any evidence of the existence of regular settlements of
civilized beings. No hunters or trappers — these pioneers of all wild coun-
tries — were met within the limits of the country which now embraces our
Territory, and probably nothing human, except the wild Indian, existed in
all these regions, now populous and prosperous.
The next expedition, sent west of the plains by the United States gov-
ernment, was fitted out under orders from John C. Calhoun, Secretary of
War, and started from Pittsburgh, Pa., in April, 1819. This was com-
manded by Col. S. H. Long, assisted by Maj. Biddle, Lieut. J. D. Graham,
Cadet W. H. Swift, Dr. Baldwin, Dr. Thomas Say, and others. This expe-
dition traveled westward as far as the Blue river, a tributary of the Kansas,
where their horses were stolen by the Pawnees, and they were compelled to
go into winter quarters. During the winter. Col. Long returned to Wash-
ington and completed arrangements for the further equipment of his party,
and on the 6th of June, 1820, again set out for the Rocky Mountains.
They first struck the Platte about forty miles south from where Fort Kear-
ney is now located, and followed its south fork to where it escapes from the
Rocky Mountains.
Col. Long's first view of the mountains was from near St. Train's fort,
and the peak which he first witnessed, towering above the clouds, was named
Long's Peak, by which it is still known. The party did not ascend the
peak, but from estimated measurement, pronounced it higher than Pike's
Peak, which has not been established by correct survey. By this expedi-
tion, a careful examination was made of the mountains, and the portions of
the plains that lie along their base from the South Platte to the Arkansas,
all of which is now within the limits of Colorado. Dr. James, of this party,
and two men, made the ascent of the Grand Peak, described by Pike, and
were, without doubt, the first Americans, if not the first human beings, who
ever stood upon the summit of this famous mountain. This party named
the peak James' Peak, in honor of Dr. James, and Col. Long describes it
under this name in his published narrative of the expedition ; but when
Col. Fremont visited the country in 18-12, he found that the white settlers
had called it Pike's Peak, and so styles it in his very interesting account of
explorations on the plains, in the Rocky Mountains, and on the western
slopes of the continent and California. Dr. James' ambition to have a
mountain peak named after him, has been gratified, however, and a very
respectable peak, in Boulder county, now bears his name. Col. Long and
his party have furnished names for three mountain peaks. Long's, Graham's,
and James', and for one mineral spring. Bell's Springs, near the Arkansas,
in southern Colorado.
Capt. B. L. E. Bonneville, of the United States army, in 1832, com-
manded an expedition fitted out by the American Fur Company, which
made very thorough explorations in the Rocky Mountains, but mostly in
portions of these either north or south of Colorado. The incidents of these
explorations form the subject of a most interesting work, written by Wash-
ington Irving, and published by Carey, Lea & Blanchard, Philadephia, in
1837, under the title of "The Rocky Mountains j or, scenes, incidents and
adventures in the far West; digested from a journal by Capt. B. L. E.
Bonneville, and illustrated from various other sources."
Capt. Bonneville claims to have been the first man who proved that the
22 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
head waters of the great rivers, that flow east and west from the Rocky
Mountains, had their origin very nearly together in the Sierra Madres, which
has not been disputed.
To Col. Fremont was entrusted the command of the next important
expedition organized by the United States authorities for explorations across
the vast plains, and over the Rocky Mountains to the the Pacific coast, by a
route which lay through the territory now within the limits of Colorado.
This expedition, by far the most complete and eiFective ever organized up to
that date by the United States for these purposes, commenced explorations
in 1842, which were completed in 1844. Col. Fremont's party, in 1842, was
composed of about twenty-three men, well armed, and provided with all
necessary equipments. Chas. Pruess was assistant-topographical engineer, and
the celebrated scout, Kit Carson, guide. They left Chouteau's landing, on
the Missouri river, (near the mouth of the Kansas), on the 10th day of June,
and after many adventures, which are most graphically described by Col.
Fremont in his interesting narrative of the expedition, arrived on the south
fork of the Platte, at a point about forty miles from Fort Kearney, early in
July. From here, Col. Fremont dispatched the larger portion of his party
to Fort Laramie, and with the balance proceeded up the South Platte.
Their first view of Long's Peak was obtained on the 8th of July, when
they were about sixty miles from the base of the mountain. The party con-
tinued their journey up the valley of the Platte as far as St. Train's Fort, a
trading post and stronghold occupied by St. Vrain and his company, seven-
teen miles east from Long's Peak, and about 100 miles north from Pike's Peak,
on the right bank of the river. According to Col. Fremont's calculations,
the longitude of this post is 105° 12' 12" west, and its latitude 40° 22' 30"
north; its altitude 5.400 feet above sea level. St. Vrain and his company
were engaged in trapping and Indian trading exclusively. Besides this
company. Col. Fremont met near this place a party of independent trappers,
mostly New Englanders; Chabonard, a Frenchman, in the employ of Bent
and St. Vrain, and his followers, and one Spaniard, which were all the white
inhabitants of the region. The Spaniard was the first of that nation met
west of the Missouri. As Col. Fremont was anxious to push his explora-
tions further north in the Rocky Mountains, and to join his party at Fort
Laramie, he traveled no further southward at this time, but left St. Vrain's
on the 12th of July. Journeying north, he crossed the *Big Thompson,
Cache-a-la-Poudre, and Crow creeks, and passed along the base of the Black
Hills to Fort Laramie, a post of the American Fur Company. From thifi
point. Col. Fremont's explorations were continued in a direction which led
him far north of the limits of our Territory, and we will not follow him.
At this time the Indian tribes on the plains were very hostile and trouble-
some, even to a party of troops numbering forty persons, well armed and
equipped, and often caused delay to the largest parties of emigrants on their
way to California.
Col. Fremont's next expedition, which traversed a much larger portion
of our Territory, was fitted out at Kansas, Mo., (now Kansas City), and
numbered thirty-nine persons. 3Ir. Charles Pruess, the topographical engi-
neer of the first expedition, was still one of the party, and its appointments
* The names of these branches of the Platte were given to them by the officers of
the American Fur Company, and trappers, and have .since been adopted by the United
States authorities.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 23
were in every way complete. Early ia July, 1843, this party reached St.
Vraiu's fort. From thence they proceeded southward to the "Divide," an
elevation of the plains, which separates the waters of the Platte and Arkan-
sas; across this to the Arkansas, and arrived at the celebrated Soda Springs,
near the base of Pike's Peak, on the 17th of July. After carefully exam-
ining these springs, and exploring the surrounding mountains and valleys,
they returned to St. Vrain's fort, and journeyed from thence up the Caehe-
aJa-Poudre, to the base of Long's Peak, and across the main range of the
Rocky Mountains, to the head waters of the Colorado. After further explo-
rations, westward and southward, they recrossed the main range, near the
base of Mount Lincoln, and made their way through South Park to the
Arkansas, and from thence eastward to the States. Space forbids our pub-
lishing any of the details of these most important explorations, which were
conducted with consummate skill and untiring energy. Col. Fremont's most
interesting narrative, and accompanying maps, have attracted much atten-
tion to this remarkable region, and contain excellent and accurate descrip-
tions of the country traveled over. They should be read by every person
interested in Colorado. A re^nme of our brief sketch of the discovery and
earliest settlement of the Territory, will show that there were no white
settlers in the country in 1843, except a ^a-^ independent trappers, traders
and adventurers, and the employes of the American Fur Company; and
that besides these, the only inhabitants were a small number of Pueblos, or
civilized Indians and Mexicans, in the southern portion, and bands of
savages, who roamed the plains. These latter were mostly Pawnees, Chey-
enes, Arapahoes and Utes. It will be seen, also, that none of these discov-
erers, explorers or settlers, who were in the country at this time, had any
knowledge of the existence of precious metals beneath the soil or rocks they
traveled over. Colorado did not commence to make history until the dis-
covery of gold.
FORMS OF GOVERNMENT PREVIOUS TO TERRITORIAL
ORGANIZATION.
If there were inhabitants in the territory, now embraced by the bound-
aries of Colorado previous to the organization of the province of Louisiana,
they were, undoubtedly, governed by the authorities of New Spain. After
the boundaries of Louisiana were defined, they would, of course, become
citizens of that extensive province, and be, first, subject to French authority,
then Spanish, again French, and finally, United States. When Louisiana
was divided into States and Territories, this portion became a part of the
Territory, and afterward State, of Kansas. Before the United Statesbecame
possessors of the country, we have no records of any settlements or inhabit-
ants except in the southern portion, where a few Pueblos, Mexicans and
Spaniards had possession ; but they considered themselves, and really were,
Mexican subjects, and were governed accordingly. After the United States
obtained possession, and, previous to th« discovery of gold in 1858, the only
24 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
American settlers were Indian traders, hunters and trappers, mostly under
control of the American Fur Company, and, of course, acknowledging the
authority of the United States government, but having no representation ia
any State or Territorial legislature, nor did they care for an}-. Their num-
bers were inconsiderable, and but little is known of them in any way. The
Fur Company enforced their regulations inside of their posts and forts by
semi-military authority, and, outside of these, every man was his own law-
maker, and enforced his enactments with the rifle or revolver. These
pioneers were bold, adventurous men, wedded to the dangers and excite-
ments of border life (as well as to Indian wives), and, as civilization
intrudes, they move southward and westward, to regions yet but little
known. In brief, the only recognized authorities in what is now Colorado,,
after its possession by the United States^ previous to the discovery of gold,
were the American Fur Company, and United States military, and these
controlled only within the limits of forts, posts, or camps. After the dis-
covery of gold, in 1858, and the great influx of inhabitants that immediately
followed this important event, the necessity of proper representation in halls
of legislation, and the enactment of local laws, were apparent. The first
movement toward accomplishing these worthy objects, was effected by
defining the boundaries of a county named Arapahoe, with Auraria as its
county seat; the next measure, the election of a representative to the Kan-
sas legislature and a delegate to Congress, This election was held in
Auraria, on the 6th day of November, 1858, and resulted in the choice of
A. J. Smith as representative and H. J. Graham as delegate. The delegate
proceeded to Washington at once, with instructions to do all in his power to
prevail upon Congress to separate the Pike's Peak gold regions from the
State of Kansas, and form thereof a new Territory, Mr. Graham was not
successful in his mission; but, no doubt, bis eftbrts did a good part toward
paving the way to its accomplishment in 1861. During the winter of 1858,
the citizens of Auraria, St. Charles, and such other settlements as were then
on the plains near them, governed themselves by local laws enacted by the
"people" of each settlement. The execution of these laws was entrusted
to a probate judge, and other officials, who nominally represented the
authority of the State of Kansas, but, really, that of the "people's courts,"
which have, since that time, occasionally been compelled to exercise authority
when other recognized powers have been unable to guard the public peace
and safety. When this court dictates, in Colorado, every body and every thing
obeys. In the spring of 1859, the discovery of gold in the mountains
attracted immense emigration, and miners thronged the mountain slopes,
gulches and valleys along Clear creek. For the government of this popula-
tion, congregated in these wilds from all portions of the world, rigid laws
were required; and, though the authority of the State of Kansas was
represented here, also, by oflicials elected by the citizens and commissioned
by the State, this was found inadequate to enforce laws and secure public
safety. Stronger power than that emanating from a distant State capital
was required; and this was found in miners' courts, and that superior court,
a miners' meeting.
The miners' courts were organized at a general meeting of the inhabitants
of a district, who enacted a code of laws, criminal and civil ; defined the
boundaries of the district; prescribed the duties of officers, and elected these
officers for the following year. The laws difiered in some minor points ia
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 25
each district, but were all nearly alike, as they were based upon similar
enactments in California and Nevada, and framed by miners from these older
mining countries. The oflBcers of the court were : A president, judge, sheriff
or constable, and a collector, surveyor and recorder, who was, ex-ojficio,
secretary and treasurer of the district. Each had his special duties defined,
and all were amenable to the miners' meetings, which were the superior courts
of the districts. These laws presented many extremely primitive features, and
were entirely free from the technicalities that retard the wheels of justice in
ordinary courts of law. No "circumlocution office" delays followed the de-
cisions of the miners' courts, and but little legal lore was required in those who
argued points of law before the august judge of a mining district. The fol-
lowing extracts from the laws of the miners' court of Spanish Bar district, in
I860, will illustrate these conclusions. From the Criminal Code, section first,
we quote: "Any person guilty of willful murder, upon conviction thereof,
shall be hung by the neck until he is dead." Section second : "Any person
guilty of manslaughter, or homicide, shall be punished as a jury of twelve
men may direct." Section third: "Any person shooting or threatening to
shoot another, using or threatening to use any deadly weapons, except in
self-defence, shall be fined a sum not less than fifty nor more than five hun-
dred dollars, and receive, in addition, as many stripes, on his bare back, as a
jury of six men may direct, and be banished from the district." Section
fourth : " Any person found guilty of petit larceny shall be fined in a sum
double the amount stolen, and such other punishment as a jury of six men
may direct." Section fifth : " Any person found guilty of grand larceny
shall be fined in a sum double the amount stolen, and receive not less than
fifty nor more than three hundred lashes, on his bare back, and be banished
from the district, and such other punishment as a j ury of six men may direct."
Not much chance for legal quibbling or evasion is apparent in these con-
cise rules of action. One prominent feature, plain to every one who reads
these laws, and perfectly well understood in the mining districts, is the pro-
vision which enacts measures certain to rid the community of the offender,
at once and permanently. In the first two sections, the manner by which
the violator of the law is gotten out of the district, is quite clearly defined —
he left for "that country from whose bourne," etc., rather suddenly, from
the end of a rope with a noose affixed. A rigid enforcement of the third
section, which always followed, sent him away with a lacerated back and slim
purse, and such other doses of Colorado justice as the ingenuity of miners
might suggest — in all, quite sufficient to last a life-time, without repetition.
One wise provision of these laws, which always legalized hanging, if deemed
necessary, was that "such other punishment" clause, that usually had a coil
of rope in connection with its enforcement.
Many of the sections of the civil code were Equally as pointed and con-
cise. For instance, section twenty-three defines what constitutes citizenship,
in the following unmistakable language: "Any person owning a claim, or
working or living in this district, shall be entitled to a vote^and all the
rights of citizenship." No distinction of sex or color in these Colorado
laws, which were in force years before the ratification of the fifteenth
amendment. Sturdy miners were the pioneers in the great progressive
movement which has resulted in giving equal rights to all men, and ahead
of all the world in the reform so much desired by the Cady Stantons and
Anthonys of to-day — female suffrage. The sorosis societies and clubs of
26 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
New York, New England, and elsewhere, should adopt resolutions of grate-,
ful acknowledgment to the pioneer miners of Colorado for the prompt
manner in which they admitted women to all the rights of citizenship.
Their preemption and other laws, which defined what constituted a lode
discovery and regulated the extent of each claim on the lode, and explained
what formed regular ownership or legal title to the same; which also defined
the extent and legal boundaries of mill sites, and water-powers, and giilch
and placer claims, and regulated sales and transfers of property of all kinds,
were primitive, and, perhaps, imperfect in regard to legal forms and techni-
calities, but were executed promptly — and all proceedings under these have
been already approved by enactments of Territoral legislatures and United
States Congress.
Besides exercising the authorities of criminal, district, and probate courts,
the officers of the miners' courts were, ex-oj/icio, county, village, and city
officials, and discharged all duties usually entrusted to these. Records of
preemptions, mining claims, and transfers of property, were duly filed at the
recorder's office, in books open for the inspection of all ; the recorder, beside
keeping these records, acting as surveyor for the district, secretary of miners'
meetings, and treasurer of the district. The president presided at miners'
meetings and at courts, when the judge was in any way interested in the case
at issue. He also signed all orders on the treasury, and appointed officers
of the district to fill vacancies. The judge presided at the courts, and per-
formed the duties of the president in his absence. The duties of the sherifi"
were similar to those performed by the same official in regularly organized
counties, such as the execution of all criminal penalties, service of official
papers, attachment of property on execution, sales of such, and the due
regulation of all courts. The collector performed the usual duties assigned
to such officials; and all gave bonds for the faithful discharge of their
respective duties. The laws were administered with promptness and fairness
as a rule, by the officers of these courts, and their enactments have since been
legalized by the General Government. Much litigation may result from the
imperfect manner in which mining claims were defined in those early days;
but, as yet, the old landmarks are respected, and old titles, however imper-
fectly made out, are considered good and sufficient guarantee of ownership.
The first miners' court in the Territory was organized in the mountains
in Gregory district (now in Gilpin county), which was the first mining district
organized after the discovery of a gold lode by Gregory, in honor of whom
it was named.
About this time (early in 1859) the discovery of many rich lodes and
gulch claims, and the remarkable increase of the mining population, neces-
sitated the organization of other districts, which followed rapidly. The
boundaries of these were established at a general meeting of the miners of
the districts, convened in Central City, Gilpin county, in Feburary, 1860,
the same as they exist to-day.
The failure of the delegate to Congress to efifect any Territorial form
of government, the remoteness of the capital of Kansas, and the entire
absence of United States officers of any kind, in the Pike's Peak gold
region, which had already a population of over 20,000, made it apparent to
all that some prompt measures should be taken by which a regular form of
government should be established. Political matters were freely discussed
by all classes, and the citizens of Arapahoe county, then the only county
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 27
organized in the region, convened at a general mass meeting in Denver, in
April, 1859, to take measures to effect the desired object. After much dLs-
cussion, this meeting adjourned until the first day of August, 1859, after
having decided that the adjourned meeting should be composed of delegates
elected by the people.
These were duly elected, and at the time specified, 128 met at Denver.
There were two prominent parties in the convention; one favoring a Terri-
torial form of government; the other, that the Pike's Peak gold region be
admitted at once as a State, under similar enactments to those that admitted
California. The former were in the majority, and decided to memorialize
Congress for a Territorial form of government, and submit their proceedings
to the people for confirmation. In accordance with this, an election was
held on the 4th of September, 1859, at which the proceedings of the con-
vention were ratified, and a delegate elected to visit Washington, and effect,
if possible, the desired organization, in accordance with resolution adopted
by the convention of August 1. Beverdy D. Williams was chosen for this
important mission, and succeeded in so representing matters to Congress,
that a Territorial organization was authorized by act of Congress; approved
February 26, 1861.
During the pending of these measures, the minority of the August con-
vention, and many other citizens, decided upon a provisional government,
and placed their proposition before the people. Pursuant to this measui'e,
representatives were elected from all parts of the country, and a session of
legislature was held in Denver during the months of xS ovember and Decem-
ber, 1859, and January, 1860. The following were the ofiicers of this
legislative body of questionable legality: James A. Gray, speaker of the
house; Eli Carter, president of the council, pro tern., and L. W. Bliss,
acting governor. They enacted laws, and passed special acts, which were
duly promulgated, and remained in force until the Territorial government
was inaugurated. Many of these have been confirmed by the regular law-
making authorities that followed in due course, and still make up a portion
of the general laws and special enactments of Colorado. The name for the
country, adopted by the provisional government, was Jefferson Territory,
and its boundaries embraced a much smaller section than that now within
the limits of Colorado Territory. While these parties were agitating seces-
sion frijm the State of Kansas, and the formation of a State or Territorial
form of government, there was yet a third party, a hopeless sort of minority,
who still claimed allegiance to Kansas, and elected representatives to the
legislative body of that State. Nothing was effected by these officials, and
the control of Kansas over the Pike's Peak gold regions was never duly
acknowledged, especially in the mountain mining regions. Among the
special acts of the Jefi'ersonian legislature, we find the following:
An act to charter and consolidate Denver, Auraria and Highland, under
the style and name of Denver. Approved December 3, 1859.
An act to incorporate the Denver Mutual Insurance Company, with the
following corporators: K. B. Bradford, D. P. Wallingford, Amos Steck, E.
W. Cobb, William Davidson, Jones & Cartright, Hart & Clark, M. D.
Hickman, and H. H. McAfee. Approved December 7, 1859.
To corporate the Golden Gate Town Company, with the following mem-
bers: J. L. Rodgers, Charles Fletcher, T. L. Golden, H. S. Hawley, and
W. G. Preston. Approved December 7, 1859.
28 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
To incorporate a wagon road from Auraria and Denver cities to South
Park, with Samuel Brown, J. H. Cochran and Joseph Brown, as corporators.
Approved December 7, 1859.
To incorporate the Cibola Hydraulic Company, with the following mem-
bers: J. W. Mclntyre, D. C. Vance, A. McPhaeder, D. McClery, and F. B.
Chase. This authorized the company to build a dam across Clear creek,
four miles above Golden City, and dig ditches through which water from
the creek could be brought to Golden City and surrounding country.
Approved December 7, 1859.
An act to incorporate the Boulder City, Gold Hill, and Left Hand Creek
wagon road; granted to T. J. Graham, E. D. Steele, and William Pelltheir.
Approved December 7, 1859.
The Consolidated Ditch Company, which is now well known in Gilpin
county, and supplies water to the extensive mining districts about Nevada
and Central, and the beautiful artificial lake near the latter city, was char-
tered by an act approved December 2, 1859, with the following as charter
members: W. G. Russell, B. F. Chase, J. M. Wood, C. K. Roberts,
Dufrees, A. H. Owens, Henry Allen, W. M. Slaughter, and G. W. Cleve-
land. These names are still as well known in Colorado as is their important
enterprise, and belong to men who have all been prominent actors in events
which have since become a part of the history of the country. This canal
conveys a portion of the waters of Fall river, from a point about twelve
miles from Central City, northwest to the lake above mentioned, and to all
of the mills and mines on both sides of Russell gulch; along the slopes of
Quartz hill, and surrounding gulches and mountains. Its waters have
washed from the sands of these districts millions of dollars of shining gold,
and supplied stamp mills, which have crushed hundreds of thousands of
tons of quartz, yielding fabulous amounts of precious metals.
By these extracts from the special acts of the provisional government, it
will be seen that the earlier citizens of Colorado took prompt measures to
develop, iu due form, their remarkably rich Territory, the results of which
are excellent wagon roads, connecting all important points, and traversing
the entire extent of every inhabited section; substantial bridges, spanning
the principal streams; irrigating canals, supplying water to millions of acres
of fertile soil, and to innumerable mines, mills and reduction works; and
well built towns and cities, with public buildings, store-rooms and private
residences, not surpassed in architectural beauty or capacity by those of
older eastern cities.
A brief resume of this sketch of forms of government previous to Ter-
ritorial organization, shows that but little attention was paid to legislative
matters previous to the discovery of gold, and that the vast extent of
country, now embraced within our limits, was controlled either by military
ofiicers of the Spanish, French or United States governments, or those of
the American Fur Company. The people had no representation iu any
legislative body, and were not much troubled with office seekers, caucuses
or primary meetings. Civil-service reform, retrenchment, or free trade
measures were not discussed by these hunters, traders and trappers, and
but little interest taken in the appointment of internal revenue officers.
Tax collectors, and even postmasters, were unknown. After the discovery
of gold, and the great emigration that followed, political matters were freely
discussed, delegates elected to Congress, and measures inaugurated for the
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 'JO
establishment of a Territorial form of government, which waa secured in
1861. _ 111 the meantime, the emigrants governed themselves by the neonle's
and miners courts, and a provisional government. During this unsettled
condition of governmental affairs, in a country remote from civilization with
a population composed of adventurers from all countries, of course more or
kss lawlessness existed, and acts of violence and bloodshed were not uncom-
mon; but the perpetrators of these crimes were soon dealt summarily with
by the law-abiding citizens, and early in 1860, after a few judicious hang-
mg-s, whippings and banishments had taken place, the population was L
orderly, and life and property as secure as in the old States.
GEOGRAPHY
Colorado embraces, within her limits, the most elevated region in North
America. The ascent to the summit of Mount Lincoln commences at the
Atlantic ocean, on the east; the Pacific ocean, on the west; the Gulf of
Mexico and Isthmus of Darieu, on the south ; and the unexplored regions
of the north pole, on the north. From these remote points, the a^scent,
though often interrupted, is gradual. The elevation reached falls short of
that of the highest peaks of the Andes, in South America, and the towering
summits of the Himalayas, in Asia, but exceeds that of any of the mountain
ranges of Europe.
The portion of the Rocky Mountains known as the Sierra Madres, of
which Mount Lincoln is the lookout tower,forms the most remarkable feature
of the Territory, and of the northern portion of the continent. Other
interesting outlines are the plains — the broad threshold to these vniit
mountain amphitheatres ; the foot-hills, which form the topmost stop of the
stairway, thousands of miles in length, that leads to their grand corridors ;
the parks, which are monster arenas within their walls ; and the great rivers,
that form their system of sewerage.
The location of the Territory is in the western central division of North
America and of the United States; between the thirty-seventh and forty-
first parallels of north latitude, and 102d and 109th meVidians of west longi-
tude. It is bounded, on the north, by Wyoming and Nebraska; on the cast,
by Nebraska and Kansas; on the south, by New Mexico; and on the west,
by Utah. The area embraced forms nearly a square, its greatest length, exst
and west, containing about 106,475 square miles, or 67,420,000 acres — a
greater extent of country than all of Great Britain, with a colony or two
included, and quite as large as New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachu.sett.s,
with New Jersey thrown in for good measure. The plains extend over one-
third of this vast region; the balance is covered by mountain chains, their
valleys, and the great system of parks. About one-third of this va.st area is
good agricultural lands, with soil of unusual strength and fertility ; the larger
portion of the balance, which occupies a location below " timber line." is covered
with dense forest, suitable for lumber or fuel, and traversed by innumerable
30 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
mountain ranges, many of these rent by deep fissure veins, bearing all kinds of
valuable minerals and the precious metals. The principal^ rivers that drain
the middle and western portion of North America, arise within the limits of
this Territory.
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
The Cordillera de la Sierra Madres of the Spaniards are the principal
mountain ranges of Colorado Territory and North America. The por-
tion of these which traverse the Territory, extend from Fisher's Peak, at the
southern boundary, to the Black Hills, at the northern. From Fisher's Peak,
which attains an elevation of 7,169 feet, the course of the main range is
nearly due north to Pike's Peak ; it then curves south, and west, and again
north, around South Park to Mount Lincoln ; then east, along the northern
boundary of Park county to its centre; then turning to the north, and
keeping that course to the centre of the western limits of Clear Creek
county. From this point, it makes a sharp turn to the west, around the
head waters of Clear creek; then curves north, and again east, along the
northern boundary of Clear Creek county, to its central point; and then.
away northward, to the limits of the Territory and the Black Hills. Follow-
ing the convolutions of the main range, the distance from Fisher's Peak to
the northern boundary of Colorado is over 500 miles; whereas, a direct line
connecting these points is not quite 300 miles in length. The average
breadth of the range, at its base, is about twenty miles. Its summit is
broken and serrated : hence the name, Sierra. The highest elevation
attained is the summit of Mount Lincoln, which, according to the estimate
by Prof. Dubois, the metallurgist of the Stevens Mining Company, is 17,300
feet above sea level. Other principal peaks attaining great elevations are :
Long's Peak, arising from the northern division of the range, 14,056 feet ;
Gray's Peak, south of this, 14,251 feet; Parry's Peak, near this, 13,133
feet; and Pike's Peak, in the southern division, 14,216 feet. The average
elevation of the base of the range is between 5,000 and 6,000 feet, and that
of its summit, between 11,000 and 12,000 feet. The lowest points in the
range — passes through which the wagon roads and trails have been con-
structed — are from 11,200 to 11,487 feet; the former, Ute's Pass,
and the latter, Georgia Pass, from South to Middle Park. The elevations at
which timber ceases to grow — " timber line " — are irregular, being greater on
the eastern than on western slopes, and greater on the peaks than on the
main body of the range. The highest point at which timber grows, on the
eastern slope, is over 11,800 feet; on the western, 11,300 feet; on the peaks,
over 12,000 feet. The region of eternal snows is not continuous in the Rocky
Mountains. In the warm summer months, the snow melts entirely from all
parts of the range, except where great masses have lodged in deep ravines,
near the summit. During the winter months, snows fall to great depths, and
whiten the bald brows of these mountain giants, which, when illumined
by the bright rays of the sun, shine with startling brilliancy, and presci:
features of wondrous beauty. The melting of these snows forms great river-
which do their part toward supplying the greater oceans with unfathome i
waters.
Branching from the main range are innumerable spurs, presenting sim:
lar features to those of the body of the range, and often reachins equ;:
elevations. These form the dividing ridge between the water courses which
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 31
flow from the slopes of the main mountains, and nearly inclose numerous
beautiful valleys and parks. Where these terminate, on the east, the foot-
hills begin. Until timber line is reached, forests, composed of different
varieties of pines, cover the declivities of these mountains, and spread out
over their valleys. Vegetation, including a great variety of grasses peculi-
arly nutritious, and many specimens of flowering plants unusually fragrant
and beautiful, is abundant in the valleys and on the range, even far above-
timber, skirting the everlasting snows. The frosts of winter do not kill
these grasses ; they never decay, but become cured during the winter months,
and are equally as nutritious, and afford equally as good pasture at all seasons.
This is characteristic of all the grasses of Colorado — a feature that makes
the Territory the best grazing region in the world.
The main range and its spurs are the principal homes of the silver
lodes, and have, locked in their granite vaults, untold mineral wealth.
These vaults open only to well-directed labor and enterprise, but reward
these with treasures of great richness. The extent of the belt of silver
mines is unknown, as new explorations always result in new discoveries ;
but at present the only well developed mines are in Boulder, Clear Creek,
Gilpin, Park, and Summit counties, although many lodes that promise
immense yields have been discovered in Lake county, and other locations
along the southern division of the mountain range.
FOOT-HILLS.
Running parallel with the main range, from the Black Hills, on the
north, to the Wet Mountains, on the south, are the foot-hills — a chain of
mountains, serrated, like the principal range, and broken through, at many
points, by the numerous tributaries of the Platte and Arkansas rivers. In
forcing their way through these monster hills, the streams excavate immense
ravines, or gorges, called canons, which present the appearance of huge fis-
sures in the rocky formation of the mountains, extending from their summit
to their base, and are often thousands of feet in depth. Through these the
waters rush with great violence, often carrying before them large boulders,
that become round by attrition with the bed-rocks of the streams. These
are frequently found, along the course of the tributaries of the Platte, con-
siderable distance from the base of the mountains. The foot-hills reach an
elevation of over 10,000 feet, and are from ten to twenty-five miles in width.
Their greatest width is attained in Clear Creek county, and their least, near
the base of Pike's Peak. Like the mountains, they inclose innumerable
valleys, and small parks, covered with forest trees — the different varieties of
pine, larch, and aspen — and other species of vegetation.
The soil of these valleys is of unusual strength and fertility, and pro-
duces the hardier cereals, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, and other vegetables,
abundantly, besides being the best hay-growing ground in the world.
Along the base of these hills, coal mines of vast extent have already
been developed, and iron and, copper ores exist in considerable quantities.
Traversing their slopes and summits, are the most extensive belts of gold
mines ever discovered. These bear immense quantities of ores, of unusual
richness, which have already yielded large sums of gold, and are now sup-
plying wealth to thousands of industrious miners. The belt of developed
mines lies chiefly in Boulder, Gilpin, and the eastern portion of Clear Creek
counties, a full description of which appears in the appropriate chapter.
32 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
OTHER RANGES.
South of the foot-hills, and east of the main range, are the Wet
mountains, which branch out from the range, south of Pike's Peak, and run
in a southeasterly direction, to the Huerfano rivers These forna the north-
ern and eastern walls of Huerfano park.
South of the Wet mountains, and east of the range, between the Huer-
iano and Purgatory rivers, forming the divide between these tributaries of
the Arkansas, are the Spanish peaks, an independent series of mountain
cones, drained by the tributaries of the Arkansas, north, east, and south, and
those of the Rio del Norte on the west.
South of the Purgatory and north of the Cimarron river (a tributary
of the Arkansas river), and forming the water-shed between these rivers, are
the Ratoon mountains, which run nearly east and west, and form the
southern base of Colorado. West of the main range, in the southern
portion of the Territory, are, first, the Sierra San Juan, which form the
western wall of San Luis park. These run nearly north and south j their
northern and eastern limits, the Rio Grande del Norte ; and their -western,
the Sierra la Platta, which also lie south of the Rio Grande del Norte, and
extend westward, from the San Juan range to the southwestern boundary of
the Territory. West of the main range, and north of the above series of
mountain chains, are the Sawatch mountains, which run nearly parallel with
the Sierra Madre, broken by many tributaries of the Gunnison (the principal
southern branch of the Colorado), and often arising to elevations of 11,000
feet above sea level. West of these are the Uncompahgre mountains, which
form the divide between the principal southern branches of the Colorado
and the Rio del Norte, and traverse the southwestern portion of the Terri-
tory, from the Sawatch range, westerly, to the Sierra San Miguel, which lie
between the Gunnison and the Rio del Norte, and extend westward to the
■western boundary of the Territory. They form the extreme southwestern
chain of the series of ranges that extend from the main range, west-
ward, in the southern division of Colorado, to Utah. Northward of these
mountains, and westward from the main range, in the central portion of
the western division of the Territory, are the Elk Head ranges, which
take a westerly direction from the range, until they join the Roan, or Book
mountains, near the western limits of the Territory, between the waters of
the White and Grand rivers. North of the latter chain, in the northwestern
corner of Summit county, are the Sierras Escalante, the last of the sierras
in Western Colorado.
The vast region in the Territory, west of the Rocky Mountains, embracing
an area of over 50,000 square miles (or over 32,000,000 acres), is traversed
in every direction by these mountain chains and their numerous spurs.
Their melted snows supply water to the tributaries of the great Colorado of
the West and the Rio Grande del Norte — two of the greatest rivers on the
American continent. Except the parks and valleys, but little of this vast
extent of country is suitable for agricultural purposes; but fine forests,
afibrding excellent fuel and timber, abound everywhere, except high up on
the mountain summits; and luxurious grasses, and other species of vegeta-
tion, are plentiful, making the greater portion of these millions of acres
excellent pasture lands.
Without doubt, innumerable belts of mines, bearing all kinds of minerals,
traverse the entire extent of these mountain ranges; but, as yet, no explora-
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 33
tious have been made, except in the southeastern corner of Sunmiit count}'.
on the head waters of the Snake and Blue, in a strip of Lake county, along
its eastern boundary, near the base of the main range, and in the mountains
around San Luis park.
The lodes already developed, are rich both in gold and silver, and yield
largely. The gulch claims are amongst the richest in the Territory, and
seem unlimited in extent.
PARKS.
The most remarkable feature of this or any other country, is the park
system of Colorado. The '"parks" constitute immense irregular basins;
shut in on all sides by lofty mountain ranges, and were, at some earlier
period of the geological history of the world, bottoms of great inland
oceans. The surface of these mountain-locked plateaus is diversified by
innumerable streams from the melted snows of the surrounding mountains,
and by the lesser spurs or foot-hills of the ranges. The level or valley
portion of the parks is clothed with luxuriant grasses and flowering plants of
different species, and is extremely fertile. The beds of the streams furnish
every variety of mineral and fossil, in remarkable quantities, and afford a
field for geological explorations, unrivalled in the new or old world. The
streams, which are the head waters of all the great rivers that arise in Col-o-
rado, abound in fish, especially excellent trout.
The hills or ridges which separate these water-courses, are covered with
dense forests of pine, in which game, such as bear, elk, and deer, are abundant.
Mineral springs, whose waters possess rare curative properties, bubble at the
foot of almost every mountain, and salt and coal beds of great extent seem
to underlie the entire surface. Besides these, gold gulch diggings, which
yield good pay, are abundant.
From the summit of Mt. Lincoln, or Gray's Peak, the observer looks
down into these basins, as be would into the parks of a large city, from a
lofty tower. The surrounding mountains are blocks of buildings; their
peaks the steeples and towers of grand old cathedrals, and their valleys the
streets and avenues. These have other features that resemble those of the
pleasure grounds of great cities. Groves of beautiful forest trees, which
shelter rare animals; pools of clear water, alive with uncommon specimens
of the finny tribe, and bearing on their surface swimming birds of unusual
beauty of plumage; and crystal streams, whose margins are bordered by
soft, grassy banks, and quaint grottoes, adorned with mineral crystalizations
■of unusual brilliancy.
The pleasure houses which adorn these parks are different, however,
from those in cities. Instead of fanciful structures, adorned with ornate
architectural designs, these have the lodges of Indian tribes, and cabins of
prospecters and hunters.
The four principal plateaus, which form this great system of parks, are
located in the central portion of the Territory, and occupy the largest part
of a belt running from the sorthern to its southern limits, between the
longitudinal limits 105° 50' on the east, and 106° 30' on the west. Com-
mencing north, the first is the North, the second the Middle, the third South,
and the fourth San Luis park.
The North park is bounded, on the northeast and south, by the main
range and its spurs, and, on the west, by the Rabbit Ears mountains and the
34 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
spurs of the Elk Head range. It embraces an area of about 25,000 square
miles, and is traversed by tributaries of the Morth Fork of the Platte, whick
unite, near its northern limits, and flow northward beyond the northern
border of the Territory. Its elevation is between 8,000 and 9,000 feet
above sea level.
Immediately south of this, and separated from it by spurs of the range, is
Middle park, one of the largest of these elevated plateaus This is walled iu
by spurs of the main range, and the range itself, on the northeast and south,
and on the west by the Elk Head mountains. The streams flowing through
this, mostly in a southwesterly direction, are all tributaries of the Grand —
the main northern branch of the Colorado. Including the slopes of the
ranges that surround it, and their spurs (which often extend far into the
body of the plateau and form divides between its streams), the area embraced
is about sixty-five miles north and south, and forty -five miles east and west;
in all, about 1,900,000 acres. A considerable portion of this will produce the
hardier cereals and vegetables. This park is connected with the plains by
a good wagon road, through Berthoud pass, in the main range, which is
11,349 feet above the sea.
One of the notable features of Middle park is the hot sulphur springs,
on a tributary of the Grand, about twelve miles from the southern boundary.
The waters of these springs possess valuable medicinal properties, and will,
eventually, attract the attention of invalids and tourists. These, with the
beautiful surrounding scenery, abundance of large and small game in the
forests, and speckled trout in the streams in the vicinity, will, eventually,
make this locality a delightful and much-frequented summer resort. The
altitude of this park is about 9.000 feet.
Again southward, but on the eastern side of the main range, is South
park, surrounded, on its northern, western, and southern boundaries, by the
range, and closed in, on the east, by the foot-hills. Embraced within these
rocky barriers is about 1,400,000 square acres, the greater portion of which
is suitable for agricultural purposes, and nearly all excellent pasture lands.
The lofty mountain towers which overlook this vast plateau are. Mount Lincoln
on the northwest, and Pike's Peak on the southeast. The streams, which
are supplied by melting snows from the surrounding mountains, and flow
eastward, through the park, to the plains, and onward to the great oceans, are
tributaries of the South Platte. Valuable salt springs have been discovered,
and their waters condensed into excellent salt by suitable and extensive works,
near the head of the park; and evidences of immense coal beds present
themselves at difierent parts. The highest elevation reached, within the
limits, of this plateau, is 10,000 feet; its average elevation, less than 9,000
feet above tide-water.
The largest of this system of parks, embracing an area quite as exten-
sive as that comprised within the limits of all the above named, is San Luis
park, which lies south of South park, from which it is separated by the
main range. This forms its northern and eastern boundary. Its west limits
are defined by the Sierra San Juan.
,. 7^^ niillions of acres inclosed by these mountains are nearly all extremely
tertile. The altitude of this park, never exceeding 7.000 feet, in connection
with Its southern location, insures it a mild climate, and makes it peculiarly
suitable lor agricultural industries. Already a population of many thousands,
mostly Mexicans, inhabit this delightful region. These are engaged in agri-
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 35
cultural pursuits and stock raising, and have already developed the country
considerably; still San Luis valley has room for, and offers superior induce-
ments to any reasonable number of emigrants who wish to engage in agri-
cultural pursuits. The Hon. William Gilpin, one of the pioneers of this
region — a most enthusiastic admirer and staunch friend of Colorado — owns
1,000,000 of acres in this valley, which he obtained, by purchase, from
parties holding Spani.sh grants; all of which he knows, from actual observa-
tion, to be excellent farming and grazing lands. Gold and silver lodes have
also been discovered in the surrounding mountains, and gulch diggings in
the valley. The Rio Grande del Norte, and its numerous tributaries, flow
through this park in a southerly direction, and afford innumerable water-
powers, and other facilities for vast manufacturing enterprises.
There are scattered through the mountains, west of the range, many
smaller parks, which complete this remarkable system; these present similar
features to those already described. m „r^ ^ ^^
THE PLAINS. -^^''-^->''-'^'0
The geographical division of Colorado, east of the mountains, is called
" the plains." This important division embraces over one-third of the entire
Territory — an area of over 27.000,000 acres — of which, at least, one-fifth is
suitable for agricultural purposes, with the aid of irrigation, and nearly the
entire extent good grazing lands. These plains were formerly considered
desert wastes, covered with arid sands, barren and desolate, and suitable only
for the hunting grounds of savage hordes ; but agriculturists, who followed
in the wake of the gold hunters, have already proven, by actual results, that
the supposed arid sands are surface deposits — washings from the great moun-
tains — carrying soil of unusual fertility and strength, requiring moisture
only to make it exceedingly productive. Irrigating canals already supply
the required moisture to millions of acres, and, literally, " the desert blooms
as a rose."
The surface of these plains is not one continuous level, but a series of
valleys, separated by ridges, and traversed by innumerable water-courses —
actually constituting a system of valleys not unlike the park system of the
mountains, flattened out and spread over a greater extent of territory. They
are the last of the elevated plateaus, that commence with the delta lands of
Louisiana, and terminate at the base of the Sierra Madres, included in which
are the prairies of the Southern and Western States.
The soil of the bottom lands, which border the water courses, is pecul-
iarly productive, without artificial supplies of moisture, and in its primitive
state supports dense vegetation, including a great variety of nutritious grasses,
flowering plants, shrubberies, and cotton-wood forests. The uplands and
ridges between the water-courses, in their natural state, are covered with a
short, crisp drab-colored grass, apparently devoid of all nutritious qualities,
but really affording excellent pasturage, upon which stock fatten readily.
This grass has furnished immense herds of buffalo and elk with abundance
of excellent food for thousands of years, and will eventually supply the same
to countless numbers of horses and cattle. Where herds of buffiilo can find
abundant pasture, an equal number of domestic cattle will fatten. This
fact establishes the future success of Colorado as a stock-raising country.
The formation of the surface of the plains facilitates irrigation, wherever
this is required. From the Sierra Madres to the Missouri river, the whole
36 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
face of the country has an eastward trend. This, in Colorado, is varied as
follows: From the "Divide," south to the Arkansas, the dip is southeast.
From the same, north to the main branch of the South Platte, it is north
and east. From the northern limits of the Territory, to the South Platte,
it is again south and east; and from the Raton mountains, in the south, to
the Arkansas, the trend is northeast. The streams follow these dips, and
as their sources are in elevated regions, and their currents swift, artificial
obstructions turn their waters through suitable channels, to all parts of the
surrounding country, without difficulty; and, already, many millions of acres
are well watered in this manner, which are cultivated and yielding abun-
dantly. In the eastern-central portion of the plains, in Colorado, there is a
considerable extent of territory that cannot be reached by irrigating canals,
without large expenditure, on account of the remoteness of streams. This
difficulty will be overcome, however, by a series of artesian wells, which are
already being sunk by the Kansas Pacific Railway Company,, on their lands,
along their line of railroad through this district.
The most prominent feature in the profile of the plains is the "Divide,"
a main ridge, approached by a series of lesser ridges, which rises to an ele-
vation of 7,500 feet. This separates the waters of the South Platte and
Arkansas, and supplies many of their smaller tributaries. The " Divide "
branches out from the foot-hills, north of Pike's Peak, and gradually slopes
northward, southward, and eastward, until it is lost in the plains. Pine
forests, exceedingly valuable for lumber purposes, cover this elevation, which
is also clothed with the grass and other vegetations peculiar to the region.
At Julesburg, in the northeast corner of the Territory, the elevation of
the plains above tide-water is 3,703 feet; at Denver, 5,317 feet ; along the
base of the foot-hills, from 6,000 to 7,000 feet ; and, at the summit of the
divide, 7,500 feet — making the average elevation of this vast plateau, within
the limits of Colorado, nearly 6,000 feet.
The mineral and agricultural resources, improvements, cities, towns,
geology, climatology, and inhabitants of this region, are fully described
elsewhere.
Previous to the construction of railways the passage of these plains was
attended with much difficulty and danger, from the entire absence of water
for considerable distances, and the attacks of hostile Indians. But all these
are now overcome by the completion of the Union, Denver, and Kansas
Pacific railways, which places the vast resources and advantages of Colorado
within the reach of all mankind.
RIVE lis.
The principal tributaries of the Rio Colorado, Rio Grande del Norte,
Arkansas, Platte, and Smoky Hill and Republican Forks of the Kansas,
make up the river system of Colorado. The principal river that flows east-
ward from the Sierra Madres, is the Arkansas, which arises at the base of
31ount Lincoln, on the western slope of the main range. From thence, its
waters flow in a southeasterly direction, along the base of the range, west
and south of South park, until they break through the range at Canon City.
I he river debouches from its mountain confines through a deep canon, which
gives the name to the above city. From this point it continues its south-
easterly course, across the plains, to the eastern boundarv of the Territory,
onward to the Mississippi. In its various windings through Colorado this
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 37
river traverses a distance of over 500 miles, and, after its exit from the
mountains, is skirted this entire distance by bottom lands, unusually fertile.
No part of this river, in Colorado, is navigable for boats of any size suitable
for transporting passengers or freights. Its chief southern tributaries,
which join it after it leaves the mountains, are, fir^t, the Greenhorn, which
rises in the Wet mountains, and flows easterly until it joins the main river,
a few miles east of Pueblo, and about fifty miles from the base of the moun-
tains ; next, the Huerfano, which receives its water from the western slope
of the Wet mountains and the Huerfano park, and runs, first south, then
east, and, finally, northeast, to the Arkansas. The principal branch of the
Huerfano is the Cochara, which flows from the Spanish peaks, nearly due
north, until it joins the main river about eighteen miles from its confluence
with the Arkansas. The next southern tributary is the Apishpa, taking its
waters from the Spanish peaks, and emptying them into the main river about
midway between Fort Lyon and Pueblo. East and south of the Apishpa is
the Purgatory river, the largest southern tributary of the Arkansas. This
rises from the southern and western declivities of the Spanish peaks and
the northern slopes of the Raton mountains, and flows easterly and north-
easterly, until it joins the Arkansas near Fort Lyon. The principal rivers
that empty into the Arkansas from the north are, first, the Fontain qui
Bouli, which has its source at the northern base of Pike's Peak, near the
foot of South park, from whence it flows, nearly due south, to its con-
fluence with the main river at Pueblo; east of this. Squirrel creek and
the Little Sandy and Big Sandy — all flowing southeastward, from the
"Divide" to the Arkansas — the two latter making their junction near Fort
Lyon.
The eastern slopes of the mountains north of the '-Divide" are drained
by the South Platte and its numerous tributaries. This river rises at the
southwestern base of the main range, at the foot of Mount Lincoln, in the
upper or northwestern corner of South park. While flowing through
the park in a southeasterly direction, it receives numerous smaller streams
from the surrounding ranges and spurs, and where it debouches from the
park about- seventy miles north of the base of Pike's Peak, it is already a
considerable stream of sparkling water. After breaking through the foot-
hills, it changes its course nearly north, and maintains it over 100 miles,
until it receives the waters of the Cache-a-la-Poudre. From this point the
Platte flows in an easterly and northeasterly direction, until it leaves the
Territory at its northeastern corner, near Julesburg.
The principal tributaries which the South Platte receives from the
mountains, all flow eastward, and join this river before its confluence with
the Cache-a-la-Poudre, which also has its source in the mountains north of
Long's Peak. There are, commencing south, the North Fork of the South
Platte, Clear creek — which rises near the base of Gray's Peak, and flows
through the rich mining districts of Clear Creek and Gilpin counties — St.
Vrain and Big Thompson. The streams that flow into the South Platte
from the "Divide" are Plum, Cherry, Terrapin, Kiowa, Bijou and Beaver
creeks. Those from the northern limits of the Territory are the Crow,
Pawnee, and Horse Tail creeks, which all flow in a southerly direction.
The Smoky Hill and Piepublican forks of the Kansas arise in the eastern
central portion of the plains, from the eastern terminus of the "Divide,"
and flow east to the limits of the Territory. The entire extent of country
38 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
in Colorado, west of the main range, and north of the Uncompahgre moun-
tains, is drained by the Rio Colorado and the south branch of the North
Fork of the Platte. The latter stream rises in North park and surrounding
mountains, and flows northward to the northern limits of the Territory.
The principal northern branches of the Rio Colorado are the Bear, White
and Grand rivers. The Bear, with its numerous tributaries, rises in Elk
Head, Rabbit Ears, and Escalantes mountains, and flows westward to the
main river. White river flows from the Elk Head and Rabbit Ears moun-
tains, west of North and Middle parks, to its confluence with the main
i-ange, near the western central boundary of Colorado. The Grand river,
the principal tributary of the Rio Colorado, really the Colorado itself, rises
from the northwestern slopes of the Sierra Madres, at the base of Mount
Lincoln. It also receives numerous tributaries from Middle park, and sur-
rounding mountains, and flows westward to its confluence with the Gunnison,
the principal southern branch, near the western central limits of the Terri-
tory. The course of this river is exceeding tortuous. It winds round the
bases of innumerable mountain ranges, and breaks through rocky barriers
of immense height, excavating a series of canons of unknown depth and
extent. The Gunnison has its source in the Sawatch and Uncompahgre
mountains, and flows northwest to its confluence with the Grand. This river
has numerous branches, and its entire course lies through a continued series
of mountain chasms. South of this, in western Colorado, are the Rio San
Miguel and Rio Dolores, arising in the Sierra San Miguel and Sierra
LaPlata, and flowing north and west to the main river. South of the
Uncompahgre mountains, and Sierra San Miguel; east of Sierra LaPIata,
and north and east of the Sierra San Juan, are the head water's of the
Rio Grande del Norte, which flows eastward till it reaches San Luis park,
and then south to the southern limits of the Territory. East of this,
arising from the southern slopes of Raton mountain, is the head waters of
the Cimaron river, which flows east to the southeastern corner of the Ter-
ritory.
This system of water-courses, thus briefly described, presents many
remarkable features, peculiar to the rivers of Colorado only. It will be
seen that, from the central division of the main range, near the base of the
highest peak of the range, arise three, among the greatest, rivers of the
Territory and of North America, the Rio Colorado, the Arkansas, and
the Platte. From this, the most elevated point in the continent, the water
naturally flows in every direction, and reaches the great oceans though
channels proportionate in magnitude to the unrivalled grandeur of the
surroundings at their source. On the plains, many of the smaller tributa-
ries of the Arkansas and Platte are, at difi"erent points, entirely absorbed by
the sands in their beds during the greater portion of the season, and instead
ot being rivers of water, are really rivers of quicksands, beneath which
the streams still continue their course, and still supply moisture to the
bottom lands along their borders, and water to the inhabitants, who obtain
It by digging to a trifling depth.
The lakes of Colorado are unimportant, and are noted only for the beauty
ana sublimity ot their surroundings, and receive mention in the chapter on
scenery Ihe elevation of Colorado prevents the accumulation of any great
body of tranquil waters within her boundaries. The only reservoirs suitable
tor the waters, that result from the melting of the snows of the Mother of
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 39
Mountains, are the great oceans ; and to these they make their way, through
channels of vast magnitude and importance.
The political divisions of Colorado will receive separate and appropriate
notice, in the following chapter.
COUNTIP]S
ARAPAHOE.
The first political division of that portion of the State of Kansas — now
in Colorado — which embraced the Pike's Peak gold region, was organized
by the emigrants in and about Auraria, in the fall of 1858, and included all
the region inhabited or explored at that time. Auraria was its principal
town and county seat, and was the arena in which the political gladiators of
those early days displayed their great prowess and endurance. The area
then embraced by Arapahoe was much larger than that defined by the
present boundaries, which were established by Government surveys, completed
in 1861. These include a strip about 175 miles in length, east and west, and
thirty miles in width, north and south; commencing at the eastern bounda-
ries of Jefferson and Boulder counties, and extending to the Kansas line,
east • and at the northern boundary of Douglas county, and extending to
the southern limits of Weld county, north and south. This belt lies entirely
in the plains, or valley division of Colorado, and presents all the features
peculiar to this district. It is watered by the Platte and many of its
branches — principal among them, the Clear, Cherry, Kiowa, Bijou and
Beaver creeks — also, by the Republican Fork of the Kansas.
Although gold was first discovered, in paying quantities, within the
present limits of Arapahoe county, the amount was trifling, and mining has
never been a leading industry. No mineral deposits of commercial value,
except coal measures, have been discovered; and these have not been suf-
ficiently developed to establish their value or importance, though, no doubt,
extensive lignite beds underlie the whole extent of the county. Fossils and
minerals, interesting to the student of geology, exist, however, in consider-
able quantities along the beds of water-courses and on the ridges, which
receive notice in the appropriate chapter.
With the exception of scattering cotton-wood forests, along the Platte
and its tributaries, there is no timber in the county ; but the usual vegeta-
tion of the plains is abundant everywhere, and the soil is very fertile and
productive. This makes agriculture the leading industry of Arapahoe,
outside of her principal cities, and has already grown to be of vast impor-
tance, and is attracting the attention of emigrants from all countries.
Although the great portion of the soil of Arapahoe county, as well as that
of other parts of the plains, requires irrigation, means of affording this are
ample, and many thousands of acres of wheat, corn, and vegetables are
already cultivated, annually, yielding large and profitable returns. Statistics
illustrating this will appear in the chapter on agriculture, and should be care-
fully examined by those seeking profitable agricultural investments.
40 ROOKY xMOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Denver, the principal city and capital of Colorado— tlie Queen City of
the Plains— is the county seat of Arapahoe county, and is located on the
Platte river and Clierry creek, at their confluence, in the western central
portion of the county. This is the mercantile and manufacturing centre ot
Colorado, as well as the most important city west of the Missouri river and
east of the mountains, and has already a population of over 8,000 inhab-
itants, noted for their prosperity, thrift, and enterprise. They have already
projected manufacturing? enterprises which will, eventually, contribute largely
to the general wealth o"f the. country, and established commercial relations
with the larger cities, east and west, of unusual importance, considering the
age and location of the city. These, with all the resources, advantages,
public buildings, institutions of learning, religion, etc., will receive full and
detailed descriptions in our history of Denver, in which will also appear all
statistical matter and gazetteer information concerning Arapahoe county.
The history of Arapahoe county and of Denver are so intimately connected,
we give them in detail in the same chapter.
There are no towns or cities of any importance in Arapahoe, besides
Denver ; but comfortable farm houses are abundant throughout the culti-
vated regions, and good wagon roads traverse every section. Besides these,
the iron tracks of the Denver and Kansas Pacific railways traverse a con-
siderable portion of the county, and pass through thousands of acres of
excellent farm lands, still awaiting the plow of the agriculturist, and rea'dy
to yield abundant wealth to all who may take advantage of their unusual
fertility. Arapahoe county wants, and offers peculiar advantages to, indus-
trious farmers, and can safely insure such comfort and competency.
BOULDER COUNTY
Embraces an area of 900 square miles, in one of the most delightful and
salubrious sections of the Territory, and is possessed of more than ordinary
attractions as a location for rapid development of material wealth to those
taking advantage of its mineral and agricultural resources.
It embraces that portion of the great mineral belt which approaches
nearest, and is most accessible to the plains, and adjoins Gilpin and Jeffer-
son counties on the south. Long's Peak forms its northwestern corner-stone;
its northern limit, Larimer county; Summit county its western boundary,
and Arapahoe and "Weld counties bound it on the east.
With its immense and valuable deposits of coal, gold, silver and iron
ores, 'and the extensive tracts of fertile land, only awaiting irrigation and
cultivation to become productive of gigantic crops and incalculable profit,
this portion of territory stands pre-eminent as an avenue to unbounded
prosperity.
The streams that rise in or near the range, and traverse this county to
the eastward, are the St. Vrain, Boulder, Little Thompson, and Coal creek,
tributaries of the Platte river. These are skirted in the mountains by beau-
tiful valleys, which occasionally widen out to fine parks, clothed with luxu-
riant grass and dense pine forests. The soil of the valleys, and a large
portion of the plains in the limits of Boulder county, is exceedingly fertile,
and the hardier cereals, potatoes, and other vegetables, and hay, are produced
abundantly. The plains, aided by irrigation, produce, besides these, wheat,
oats, barley, and corn, with that large average yield peculiar to Colorado.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 41
The cereal products of tlie cultivated acres furnish four good flouring mills
with a constant supply, besides large shipments of grain to markets beyond
the limits of the county.
To furnish timber for building purposes, and other improvements, thir-
teen s:iw-mills are kept in active operation. Among the number, the Wall-
ing steam mill, at Caribou City, Grand Island district, employs thirty men
constantly; and the Tucker mill, located at Keysport, is also actively engaged.
Besides agricultural and manufacturing interests, which are important,
Boulder possesses remarkable mineral Avealth, regarded as unsurpassed by
any other county of Colorado. Her belt of gold mines — among the very
earliest discoveries in the Territory — traverse the entire extent of the county
along the chain of mountains east of the main range. Her silver mines —
of recent discovery — extend along the main range and spurs for many miles.
in a northerly direction, from the southern boundary, to a point approaching
Long's Peak.
The principal mining districts are Sugar Loaf, Gold Hill, Central, Ward,
Phoenix, and Grand Island, the latter the home of the celebrated Caribou
lode, a full description of which appears in another chapter.
Early in 1858, the first gold discovery in Colorado was made within the
limits of Boulder county, on the St. Yrain. This occurrence brought in the
vicinity scores of prospecters, who zealously labored to discover hidden
riches; and ere long, (1859), gold was discovered in the mountains of the
adjoining county, (Gilpin), and was followed by similar discoveries in this
county. Among the most important lodes, first discovered, were the Horse
Fall, Williams, Hope, Gold Hill, Wisconsin, Sucker, and Syracuse; and
later, the Columbia, Horseshoe, Galena, and many others. The more recent
discovery of silver mines in the Grand Island district — of which a full
mention is made elsewhei-e — has given a sudden impetus to business, and
imparted a healthful vigor to the materia] interests of the county and the
Territory, and promises to add largely to the wealth of the entire nation.
Another important feature of Boulder county is her immense and inex-
haustible beds of coal, referred to in the commencement of this chapter, and
more fully described elsewhere. These are located near the foot-hills^
and have already been sufficiently developed to establish their real value
and importance. Cheap and good fuel furthers the interest of all manufac-
turing enterprises, and encourages emigration in any country possessing this
great desideratum; and, in this respect, Boulder county is peculiarly favored.
Prominent among the coal mines, already extensively worked, is the Marshall
mine, which receives due attention in an appropriate chapter. Still, too
much cannot be written concerning this coal measure, capable of supplying
a populous community and vast manufacturing enterprises, with abundance
of excellent fuel at moderate expense. Other coal beds, also duly noticed
elsewhere, are being actively developed, and their value fully established.
Fire and potter's clay, of superior quality, also exist in large quantities, and
altogether, the resources of Boulder county are unsurpassed, perhaps, by
any other district in the Territory.
If superior agricultural advantages, great mineral deposits, including
gold, silver, iron, lead and copper ores, and superior lignite, abundance of
excellent building material, superior water powers, healthy climate, and
glorious scenery will make a country prosperous, and a people happy, surely
the prospects of Boulder county are unusually brilliant, and the inhabitants
42 ROCKi' MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
amongst the most favored of mortals. That which is most needed to insure
entire success to the mining interest of Boulder county, as well as to those
of all similar districts in Colorado, is reduction works, capable of treating,
successfully and economically, the sulphuret ores of the mineral belts. Such
works, sufficiently capacious, and liberally managed, would give a fresh
impetus to mining enterprises, and not only enhance the value and insure
the working of mines already discovered, but stimulate prospecting, and
aus^ment the importance of the mining industries generally. And no portion
of Colorado affords more facilities or better inducements for the construction
of such works than that part of Boulder county which lies along the base of
the foot-hills. Everything requisite, except capital and skillful labor, is on
the spot; fire-clay, building material, abundance of coal, and besides all
these, easy access to the mining regions above.
The principal towns of Boulder county are Boulder City (the county
seat), Burlington and Valmont, which are fully described elsewhere.
CLEAR CREEK
Is the principal silver-producing county of Colorado, and second to none in
important and successful mining enterprises. A portion of the northern, the
entire western, and about one-half of the southern boundary of this county is
defined by three curves of the main range that indent the southeastern bound-
ary of Summit county. The balance of its northern, its eastern, and the other
half of its southern boundaries lie along spurs of the main range on the
north, and along the foot-hills east and south. The political boundaries of
Clear Creek are Summit and Gilpin counties on the north; Gilpin and Jef-
ferson counties on the east; Park and Summit on the south, and Summit oa
the west. The area thus defined is pear-shaped; the stem of the pear
formed by the extreme western point of the "county, surrounded almost com-
pletely by the main range; the body, by that portion inclosed by spurs of
the range, the foot-hills, and the range itself. The greatest length of the
county, east and west, is about thirty-five miles; its greatest breadth, north
and south, about fifteen miles. The area, thus embraced, incloses South
Clear creek and its tributaries entirely, except the point at which the creek
breaks through the foot-hills and join its northern fork, which drains the
gold regions of Gilpin county. The valley of this beautiful stream, which
gives its name to the county, is one of its most important physical features.
It extends from the junction of two of its principal tributaries at George-
town, to the carton near the boundary of Jefferson county, a distance of
over twenty miles. Its width varies from a few hundred feet to over one-
half mile. Its surface is quite level, except its eastward trend, and is clothed
with luxuriant grass and other species of mountain-valley vegetation.
The soil is excellent, and produces the hardier cereals and vegetables
abundantly. Besides these advantages, gold has been found in paying quan-
tities in the sands of the valley; and gulch and placer diggings have been
actively worked, at different points, along its eastern third, since 1859.
The first settlers of the county were prospecters in search of precious nug-
gets, which were first found by Americans— George Jackson and party— in
tlie spring of 1859, on Chicago Bar, now within the limits of Idaho Springs. ;i
That gold was taken out previous to this, by Spanish or Mexican explorers, fi
from Spanish Bar, near the mouth of Fall river, is probable, but not well ]\
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER, 43
authenticated. However, the value of the placer and gulch diggings of
South Clear creek have long since been fully established.
Another important, and perhaps the most valuable feature of Clear creek
and its beautiful valley, is the excellent water-power and mill-sites that
are continuous from its source to its mouth. The stream affords ample
supply of water at all seasons, and the valley peculiar facilities for the con-
struction of mill buildings and manufactories. The fall of the waters are
sufficient, in every 500 or 600 feet of the valley, to insure ample power to
drive massive machinery, and the existence of a smooth bed rock at no great
depth, at all points, makes the construction of dams, and the foundations of
manufactories, comparatively easy. The declivities of the ranges and mount-
ains which border this valley, and arise above it to elevations of from 1,000
to 4,000 feet, are covered with dense forests of mountain pine, suitable for all
lumber and fuel purposes, and are traversed their entire extent by lodes
bearing the precious metals, and copper, lead and iron, in great abundance.
The slopes of these mountains, besides furnishing abundance of pine lum-
ber, afford good pasturage, as they are covered, nearly to their summits, with
the mountain grasses peculiar to the region. Altogether, the advantages
and resources of Clear Creek county are unsurpassed for mining, milling,
manufacturing and grazing purposes, and these have been improved- already
by many thousands of industrious and enterprising citizens.
The first settlers of the county were gulch miners, who worked in the
valley along Clear creek only, but these were soon followed by prospecters
in the mountains, who made numerous lode discoveries. These were first
worked for gold only, with but little success, except inland about Empire, in
Upper Union district, where gold lodes of great value are still successfully
operated. At this time, the existence of silver in the ores of Colorado had
not been defined; but after this important fact was established in 1864, the
great value of the mining districts of Clear Creek county was fully con-
firmed, and from that fortunate event dates the present prosperity and
importance of the county. Idaho Springs was the first town surveyed in
the county. This very soon became the most populous portion of the
county, and the county seat and archives and offices were located here until
1867, when they were removed to the more populous town of Georgetown,
near the head waters of Clear creek. This town was first settled in 1860, by
the Griffith family, but did not commence a healthy and rapid growth until
the discovery of silver in the extensive belt of lodes that traverse the sur-
rounding mountains. This event secured the future prosperity of George-
town, and it has already taken a place in the front rank of mining towns in
Colorado, and may, ere long, rival that great centre of the mining industries
of the Territory, Central City, of Gilpin county.
The town next in importance to those above named is Empire, in Upper
Union district. This beautiful mining camp is most pleasantly located, on
the North Fork of Clear creek, in a beautiful valley at the base of Silver
mountain. It was first settled, in 1860, by gold miners, who had made
important discoveries of gold lodes in the adjacent mountain. The first
house was built by D. J. Ball and D. C. Daily, who are still residents of
the town, and among the prominent citizens of the county. The former
(D. J. Ball) is agent of the Star Gold Mining Company, and notary public
for the district. He is completely identified with the mining interests of
the county, thoroughly well-informed in all mining matters, and a most
44 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
reliable person from whom to gain information concerning these induatrie.^
His cabinet of minerals, metals, and fossils, is among the most caretuL;
selected, extensive, and best arranged in the Territory, and should be exa^r
ined by all visitors to Empire. Mr. D. C Daily is also large y interested ir
mining enterprises, and thoroughly competent to give reliable and valuab,.-
inforniation concerning the interests of the district. To Mr. August Guibo'
and his son— gentlemen also thorouahly conversant with mining matters, aiu.
laruely interested in those here and in Summit county— we are under
esp'I'cial obligations for valuable statistical information and urbane courtesio
Will they please accept our grateful acknowledgments ?
The present population of Empire is comparatively small, on account v
the suspension of work in nearly all the mines in the vicinity, from_ caus.
which receive due notice in our chapter on mines; but, in the earlier an
more prosperous days of the district, the town had over 1,000 inhabitant -
and numerous stores, hotels, etc.
A pleasant feature of this town, besides its beautiful location and su;
roundings, is the apparent attention paid by its citizens to religious an^
educational privileges. This is exemplified by a beautiful little churr'
(Episcopalian), built under the direction of Bishop Randall, of Denver;
Methodist church organization, and a good school — all of which receiv
liberal support.
Other towns, exclusively mining camps, now almost deserted, but f< •
merly populous, located in the valley of Clear creek, are: jMills' City ai;
Dowuieviile, between Idaho Springs and Georgetown; Silver Plume (a nc^
town), Brownville, and Bakerville, above Georgetown, on the middle tributat
of Clear creek; and East Argentine, on the south branch of the creek, al-
above Georgetown, on the main range. Besides these, there is a beautilr
little embryo city, nestled in the valley of P^iU river, about five miles fro:
its mouth, at Spanish Bar, which is named in honor of J. Mahaney, Esq..
Georgetown, and has peculiar facilities and advantages, both in regard r
location and wealth of the surrounding mines, that will, eventually, insure :
growth and population. Mahaneyvillemay,at some future day, be the centrt-
of vast mining enterprises, and count its population by tens of thousand-.
At present, however, it is only the abiding place of a few miners.
A full description of the mines and mills of Clear Creek county, historic -
of Georgetown and Idaho Springs, and complete statistical information co'.
cerning the resources of the county, appear in their appropriate chapter-
The altitude of the valley of Clear creek, at Idaho Springs, is 7,8ii
above sea level; at mouth of Fall river, 7,930 feet; and at Georgei.r»;
8,452 feet. The highest points on surrounding mountains average fror
9,000 to nearly 15,000 feet— the latter the summit of Gray's Peak. N..
withstanding these great elevations, the climate is unusually mild, and gre '
falls of snow seldom occur.
The principal branches of Clear creek are its North, Middle and Souti
branches. Fall river, and Chicago and Soda creeks. These are all skirted b
pleasant valleys, covered with grasses which aff"ord excellent pasturage, ani.
flow through ranges of mountains traversed by belts of silver and gold lodes,
and covered with pine forests.
The valley is reached by excellent wagon roads from Denver and Central
City, and will, no doubt, soon be linked to the rest of the world by a con-
tinuation of the Colorado Central railway, which already reaches the base
I
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 45
of the mountains, at Golden City. The practicability of this railway con-
nection has been fully detiued by recent surveys, and its completion is only
a matter of time. With railway communication with the plains, this county
will possess unrivalled attractions for capitalists seeking profitable mining
investments, and miners seeking paying returns for their labor.
GILPIN,
The smallest, but most important, of the political divisions of Colorado, lies
chiefly in the foot-hills, and embraces, within its limited borders, the richest
gold mining i-egion in the world. Its entire surface is broken by mountain
ranges and their intervening gulches and chasms, and presents the serrated
profile peculiar to all the mountain districts of the Territory; but it is rich
in gold — pure, glittering, precious gold ; and, to the gold-hunter, jagged
mountain steeps, inclosing the precious metal, are gently-sloping declivities;
and deep chasms, whose sands are glittering, are pleasant dells, beautiful and
enchanting; and all the surroundings of the coveted treasure, rose-hued and
delightful. And, even to the ordinary observer, Gilpin county presents
unusual beauties of scenery. The mountains are robbed of their naked
horrors by a garb of fine forests of pines, luxuriant grass, and flowering
vegetation; and the ravines of their terrors, by lippling water-falls and grass-
clothed bottoms. The bottoms occasionally widen to valleys of considerable
extent, which are unusually fertile and productive; and, under the careful
culture of ranch-men, yield abundantly. They are peculiarly adapted to
the culture of hay and vegetables, and have already made the agricultural
interest of Gilpin of considerable importance.
The northern liu)it of the county is Boulder county; its eastern, Jeffer-
son county; its southern. Clear Creek county; and its western, Summit
county. Its principal city and county seat is Central City, located in the
central portion of the county, on Gregory gulch, which is the water-course
of one of the branches of North Clear creek. This is the second city, in
population, in the Territory, and the great centre of the mining enterprises
of Colorado. It is surrounded and traversed by the richest belt of gold
mines in the world, and is in the immediate neighborhood of gulch and
placer diggings that have yielded millions of dollars worth of the precious
metal.
Nearly east of Central, on Clear creek, is the city of Black Hawk, also
surrounded and traversed by belts of rich gold lodes, paved with placer and
gulch diggings, and resonant with the clang of machinery and the thud of
the ponderous ore stamp.
West of Central, and also joining it, on a tributary of North Clear creek,
is Nevada, also belted and crowned and paved with gold mines and placer
diggings, and noisy with the unwieldy music of steam-engines and the "fall"
of the ore-crushing stamp.
The first discovery of gold in the mountains occurred in Gilpin county;
and some strange fate guided the first explorers of the region to the richest
deposits ever discovered by mortal man. The assertion that tne gold mines
of Gilpin county are not equalled, in richness or extent, by those of any
other district in the world, of equal proportions, is a sweeping announcement;
nevertheless, one that can be, and has been, fully confirmed by reliable sta-
tistics. It cannot be averred, however, that this paramount advantage has
46 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
secured large wealth or unusual prosperity to the inhabitants. The history
of mining enterprises in Gilpin county, as well as in all other parts of the
Territory, is not the description of a series of successful operations, yielding
immense profits; but, in too many cases, the story of gigantic failures and
proportionate losses. That gold should exist extensively, and in paying
quantities, in a district, and not be a source of large wealth to the inhabit-
ants thereof, seems impossible, but has been proven a fact, by actual results,
in Gilpin county. The various causes that bring this about receive due
condemnation elsewhere, and are, mainly, incompetent mining captains and
mill-men, swindling mining operators, buncombe companies with penniless
directors and senseless agents; charlatan metallurgical professors, with their
worthless processes; and not either the quality or quantity of the ores, or
the unusual actual expense of mining or reducing these. The wrecks, left
by the storms of failure and disaster that have swept over the country, are
painfully apparent everywhere. Crumbling walls and tottering chimneys of
played-out reduction works; ponderous machinery, rusted and broken; and
curious furnaces, whose fires have been extinguished years ago, m:ir the fair
face of this golden county, and chill the hearts of capitalists anxious to
invest in her rich mines. These accumulations of unsightly debris should
be removed at once and forever. They do a vast amount of injury to the
mining interest of Colorado, and benefit nobody. The charlatans and hum-
bugs, who have induced honest capitalists to invest money in their useless
processes, are disappearing rapidly from the country ; and these monuments
of their follies and failures should not be permitted to outlive their project-
ors. The lessons they inculcate have been already thoroughly learned by
the practical miners of the country, who are gradually becoming excellent
and experienced mining captains and competent mill-men, and can get along
very fairly, without the aid of imported German-Freiburg brains, or " Toot-
horn " professors.
The cry of "refractory ores'' has been raised against the gold-bearing
sulphurets of Colorado, and has been reiterated by every charlatan ore-
reducer, who has failed, in the country, and harped upon by every dis-
content and swindling operator, who has cursed it with his presence. This
howl, however, is being borne away on the pure mountain winds of the '
region, and entirely suppressed by the rush of flames in Prof Hill's reducing
furnaces, which are daily melting precious gold, from over twenty-five tons cf
these same refractory ores, in such quantities, and at such trifling expense,
that his company can declare dividends on capital stock of more than lOw
per cent., annually.
To fully establish the mining interests of Gilpin county, upon a perm;',-
nent, paying basis, and secure a complete development of the great miner;;'
wealth of the mines, other reduction works, of greater capacity, are requiretl.
immediately. The attention of capitalists is already directed to this impoi-
tant matter, and, without doubt, the much needed works will soon b-
constructed. Probably the most suitable location for these is at the base <: :
the mountains, near some of the extensive coal beds in Boulder or Jeff"ersou
county, on account of the abundance of fuel; but works can be constructed I
inUilpin county, where forests still supply great quantities of cheap fuel,'
and be carried on with large profit to their owners, as is proven by the works ,
relerred to above. To make such works valuable to the whole county, and,
the means of fully developing her resources, they should be conducted by
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 47
capitalists, who would be satisfied with a reasonable per centage on the money
invested, and be sufficiently public spirited and honest to insure fair and
liberal management of the enterprise.
Many years of expensive experiment have proven that stamp mills are
only adapted to the treatment of surface auriferous quartz. They fail to
save even fifty per cent, of the gold in the mineral ores, and, consequently,
cannot be used for the treatment of such without incurring large and
shameful loss. While the stamps are, and will always continue to be, a cheap
and appropriate method of reducing surface quartz and low grades of ores
carrying a large amount of gangue, they can never be available for the treat-
ment of the deeper and more valuable ores. In view of this, and the
absence of large reduction works (except. Prof. Hill's, which can be supplied
by any one of the large mines of the county, if fully worked"), it is not
strange that the mining industries of the county should be cramped and
impeded.
As the successful treatment of sulphureted gold-bearing ores is no longer
doubtful, and the fact of their existence, in numerous true fissure veins, fully
established, all that is now required to fully develop the mining interest of
the county, and insure large wealth to its inhabitants, are extensive reduc-
tion works, skillfully and economically conducted, and liberally managed.
Notwithstanding all disadvantages, mining is not at a stand-still in the
county, as will be fully understood by a perusal of our chapter on mines and
mills. The ore taken out, annually, yields a large amount of bullion, and
enables the mine owners to pay liberal wages — 83.50 per day — to common
miners, and realize handsome profits besides, in spite of the large loss of
gold by the stamp mill process, and the comparatively trifling price paid for
smelting ores by Prof Hill.
The mercantile and commercial interests of the county are important,
and are skillfully managed by a class of merchants and business men, possess-
ing unusual enterprise and ability. Educational and religious institutions
and privileges are liberally sustained, and carefully fostered ; the professions
represented by gentlemen of learning and character, and the "Press" con-
ducted with unusual enterprise and ability. A detailed description of all
these appear in appropriate chapters.
The altitude of Central is 8,300 feet above sea level, and the average
altitude of the whole county nearly 9,000 feet. The climate is mild, and,
like that of all the foot-hill regions, unusually healthy. Altogether, Gilpin
county offers great inducements to capitalists for safe, paying investments ;
to laborers, the assurance of good wages and prompt payment, and to all
classes of emigrants, a most desirable abiding place.
Superior wagon roads traverse the county in all directions, and furnish
ample facilities for communication between all parts of the mining districts,
and the towns and cities of this and surrounding mountain counties, and the
plains beyond; and soon the iron track of the Colorado Central railway will
connect this land of gold with all sections east and west. .
PARK COUNTY
Lies chiefly in a semicircular basin ; its southern, western and northern rims
form a curve in the main Ptocky Mountain range, from a point near Pike's
Peak, on the southeast, to Mt. Lincoln on the northeast; its eastern boundary
48 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
a series of mountain spurs broken by the tributaries of the Platte, which
connect Pike's Peak and Mt. Lincola by a nearly direct line, about 100
miles in length, running northeast and southwest. This county is the
central division of Colorado, and is bounded on the south by Fremont
county; on the east, by El Paso, a corner of Douglas, and Jefferson; on the
north, by Clear Creek and Summit; and on the west, by Lake. An ele-
vated plateau, over 10,000 feet above sea-level, the South park, covers the
larger portion of this area, locked in by mountain chains, and is the principal
feature of the county. The park embraces almost 3,000 square miles, nearly
level, except where traversed by numerous spurs of the mountains that form
its boundaries; is well watered with tributaries of the South Platte, and
covered with luxuriant grasses and pine forests. One hot and several warm
mineral springs, and extensive salt springs, have been discovered in the park
— the latter about twenty miles from its northern border. In 1866, large salt
works were erected at these, by Messrs. Kollius, Hall and Lane, at consider-
able expense, which were worked for several years with profitable results,
supplying the greater portion of the Territory ; but at present, from causes
unknown to us, are idle. The springs, two in number, furnish large quanti-
ties of brine of fair strength. The valley in which they are located is
covered with an efflorescense .of alkali, and there is every evidence of
extensive salt beds. About eight miles from the northern limit, lignite,
suitable for ordinary fuel purposes, has been discovered in considerable quan-
tities, and evidences of good coal beds present themselves at different parts.
The soil of the park is exceedingly fertile, and, notwithstanding its great
elevation, the hardier cereals, potatoes, turnips and other vegetables, mature
and yield largely; and no better grass or hay-growing country can be found
anywhere. The numerous streams which traverse the surface of the park,
and break through its eastern boundaries to the great plains and the greater
ocean beyond, are filled with brook trout of the finest species ; and game,
such as ducks, geese, deer, elk and mountain sheep, is abundant everywhere.
At the head of the park that giant among the mountain-monarchs of this
region, Mt. Lincoln, rears its snow-crowned summit far above timber line, to
an elevation of over 17,000 feet (Prof. Dubois' estimate). The melted
snows from its eastern declivities supply the principal tributaries of the
South Platte with clear, sparkling, eternal waters; and those from its
western slopes reach the Pacific ocean through the Blue, Grande and Colo-
rado. ^ The scenic view from Mt. Lincoln is unsurpassed in beauty and
sublimity.
The principal town and county seat of Park county is Fair Play, located
at the head of the park on a tributary of the Platte, at the base of the foot-
hills, ninety-five miles from Denver, by the Buckskin Joe, or Fair Play wagon
road, seventy-five miles from Caiion City, seventy miles from Colorado City,
forty miles from Granite, in Lake, and thirty-five miles from California
gulch. This town is on the direct or mountain route, from Denver to Santa
Fe, by way of San Luis park, and is reached from Denver, by a daily line
of first-class coaches, owned by the Colorado Stage Company; from San Luis
parjc and Lake county, by a semi-weekly line, owned by Frank Logan ; from
Canon City, by a weekly line, the property of W. H. Berry, of Fair Play;
and from Montgomery and other mining towns above, a weekly line. Monte-
zuma, Breckmridge, and the mining districts of Summit, are reached by a
good road, through one of the lowest passes of the main range. Fair Play has
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 49
a good church (3Iethodist Episcopal); school, with forty-five scholars; two
hotels — the South Park House, Hugh Murdoch, proprietor, and Clinton
House, David Miller, proprietor ; two stores — general merchandise and miners'
supplies, A. M. Janes; drug store, L. H. Valiton. The post-oflBce, express
office and land agency are at Janes' store. Livery stable, McLaughlin &
Hall, proprietors. The county officers are: S. A. Safford, county clerk and
recorder; Thomas Hubbard, probate judge; A. Hall, sherifi"; treasurer
and collector, W. H. Berry; assessor, R. Ware; school superintendent,
J. Marshall Paul, attorney at law; commissioners, Charles W. Lowe, James
Moynahan, S. S. Slater; justice of peace, Thomas Willey. There is a
United States land office at Fair Play, with James Castello, receiver, and N. H.
Owings, register. Six townships around this town have been surveyed and
are in the market for sale, and four more have been surveyed and are open for
preemption. They are all in or near the park, well watered, well timbered
with spruce and pine, and a large portion of them good agricultural lands.
The present population is about 400, within the limits of the town, and 600
in the surrounding mining districts, with this as a base of supplies. From
the valley or gulch in which Fair Play is located, over 8250,000 in gold was
taken out in 1S59, and all the placer diggings in the vicinity are rich and
have produced largely — among them, "Beaver Creek gulch," where Messrs.
Pease and Freeman have recently put in a bed rock flume, and have good
prospects; and " Four Mile gulch," where Charles 'SV. Lowe was actively and
profitably engaged last summer. The entire range of mountains in the
vicinity is traversed by a rich belt of lodes, carrying minerals of all kinds
Those of the greatest value and best developed are the "Orphan Boy." jMos-
quito district, from which a large amount has been taken (the ores in this
lode are sulphurets of iron, copper, lead and zinc, bearing gold and silver);
the " V.'ar Eagle" and "Hattie Jane," also Mosquito district; the " Parson-
age" and " Herrington," Montgomery district; the "Priest lode," Beaver
Creek district; and "Ten-forty," "Excelsior," "Sub-let," "Union Four,"
and celebrated "Phillips" (from which more than a quarter of a million
dollars was taken in a short time), all in Buckskin district.
The other towns in the county worthy of note are Montgomery, at the
base of Mt. Lincoln, twelve miles from Fair Play (an important mining camp
as early as 1S60), surrounded by a belt of lodes of unusual richness, many of
which have been extensively worked, and over a third of a million dollars
taken out since 1S59; several quartz mills. Buckskin, on Buckskin creek,
about nine miles north of Fair Play, surrounded by rich gulches and mines;
a prospect of active operations here next summer. Mosquito, on Mosquito
creek, also in the midst of a good mining district, considerably developed ;
with two stamp mills and several arrastras constantly employed; and prospects
of reduction works, for silver ores, next summer. Several gulch claims
between Montgomery apd Fair Play were worked, during the past year, with
fair results, and over $100, OUO in gold produced, being the principal yield of
the county, owing to the existence of causes adverse to active mining opera-
tions; principal among these, the lack of proper works for reducing ores,
and insufficient capital for mining purposes. The principal companies
owning mining and milling property in these districts are the Stephens
Company, Philadelphia capitalists; South Park Exploring and Mining-
Company, who own the "Orphan Boy;" and the Pioneer Mining Company,
who own lodes and stamp mill and arrastras in IMontgomery district.
50 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Stock-raising is fast becoming an important feature- in the industries of
Park county, for which its superior pasture-lands afford unusual advantages.
There are already over 6,000 head of cattle and 700 head of horses owned
by parties near Fair Play, and these herds will be increased rapidly.
The vast mineral and agricultural resources, superior water powers, coal
beds, mineral springs and salt beds, unrivalled scenery and healthful climate,
will eventually secure large wealth and population to this county. Its prin-
cipal town is already a good business point, and, from its beautiful and
healthful surroundings, should be a fashionable resort for siimmer tourists.
SUMMIT.
Summit is the extreme northwestern of the counties of Colorado, and
embraces all that portion of the territory lying to the west of the summit of
the main range, and north of the parallel 39° 30' of north latitude. To the
south of it lies the great counties of Lake and Park, to the west the Terri-
tory of Utah, to the north Wyoming, and to the east the counties of Larimer,
Boulder, Gilpin, Clear Creek and a part of Park. The length of Summit
county, on an east and west line, is about 145 miles, and north and south
about 115 miles. Very nearly all of this large area (over 16.000 square
miles) is uninhabited, save by wandering Indians; and it is only in the
extreme southeastern corner of the county, on the head waters of the Blue,
Snake and Swan rivers, that the adventurous and hardy miner has gained a
foothold. The county is entered by several passes; the most traveled, and,
indeed, the only road into it, being by way of Denver and the South park,
and thence over the Tarryall pass. This road is a good one, and could be
readily traveled all winter, were there vehicles enough passing over it to
break a road through the first heavy snow.
The Grand and its tributariee are the principal rivers of this county; and
it is in the southeast part of Summit that the head waters of the great Col- ■
orado river have their origin — as it is from the melting snows of Summit
county are fed the streams that make their exit into the ocean, through the
great canon of the Colorado river and Gulf of California. The county is i
densely timbered and possesses immense beds of valuable coal. The prin-
cipal metals and minerals found in the county are gold, silver, copper, lead,
iron and zinc, and the various combinations of these metals with sulphur,
arsenic, antimony, etc. The rock of the county is mainly primitive, granite i
and gneiss; and it is not until some distance from the range is obtained, is !
there met the younger formations. The sole business of the inhabitants of I
Summit county is mining, and mainly in the placer deposits of gold, of which I
the county possesses an immense area. I
Commencing on the head waters of the Blue river, and thence north and I
east as far as the Swan river, the gulches coming down from the range are [
auriferous. It was in 1859 that gold was first discovered in the gravel de- i
posits of Summit county; and Gold Run, Galena, American, Georgia, Humbug, I
French, Gibson, Corkscrew, Negro, Illinois and Hoosier gulches, and Stilson's '
and Delaware flats suddenly became endowed with reputation and a hardy,
energetic population of miners. The first extensive ditch, six miles in length,
was built in 1860, and the second, nine miles long, in 1862. The produc-
tion of gold in Summit county, from the time of its first discovery to the
present date, has been very large; but owing to the absence of mints, etc., in
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 51
the early days of the county, no accurate return can be made. Its present
production is about $500,000 per annum. Owing to the extent of placer
ground in the county, and to the gradual adoption of river mining, and also
to the gradual decrease in the price of labor, provisions, etc., the "gold crop"
of Summit county will gradually increase and probably soon reach $1,000,000
per year, which rate of production the county can sustain for an indefinite
length of time. No gold lodes are being worked in the county, although
such lodes undoubtedly exist. Gulch miners, as a class, are opposed to lode
mining; and while the placers of Summit county continue to yield as they
now do, there is but little lode mining to be done, except in the silver mining
districts of Peru and Montezuma. Such of the lodes as have been discovered
and opened in the county are mainly those containing ores of silver; this is
the case even in the immediate vicinity to the best paying gulches in the
county. There is no doubt, however, but that the deposits of valuable ores
of both silver and gold, in Summit county, are quite as extensive and quite
as valuable as those of any of the mining counties in the Territory. The
lodes of the county are characterized by great width and heavy deposits
of ore.
Of the fitness of the lands of Summit county for agriculture, but little
can be said. No attempt has been made to raise any crops in the county,
except a few feeble attempts at patches of potatoes and turnips, yet there is
no doubt but that wheat and other small grains, as well as turnips, potatoes
and other vegetables can be raised in the county. Summit is, however, ad-
mirably fitted for grazing stock. The grasses are those indigenous to the
country — red top, wild timothy, wild flax, wild oats, bunch grass, etc.; and
they grow with a wild luxuriance, surprising to those familiar only with the
plains grasses. The valley of the Blue river and its tributaries, and of the
Grand river and its tributaries, are as fine grazing grounds as any in Colo-
rado; and when an outlet is provided to the north and west, to the Union
Pacific railroad, or when a narrow gauge railway is built to connect with
some of the roads east of the range, there is no doubt but that stock growing
will be one of the permanent industries of the county. The extent and size
of the timber, mainly pine and spruce, that grows within the limits of Sum-
mit county, gives promise of a grand field for future population and wealth.
There is no doubt but that Summit county is as well, if not better timbered
than any other county in the Territory. The manufacturing of lumber is,
however, in a great measure, dependent on railroad communication to carry
the product to a market. The water-power of the county is large, and will
be sufficient to run any number of mills, and gives, when its resources are
fully developed, promise that the manufacturing industries of Summit county
are to be of great value to her and to the whole Territory.
The principal town, and county seat of Summit, is Breckinridge, which,
as early as 1860, was quite a populous mining camp. It is located in a valley,
on one of the tributaries of Blue, near the latter river, in the southeast cor-
ner of the county. W. P. Pollock, county clerk and recorder, resides here.
Montezuma, a mining camp on a branch of the Snake, at the base of Glazier
mountain, has a population of over 200 in summer. The reduction works
of the Sukie & St. Lawrence Mining Co. are located here, also a steam saw-
mill, the property of F. E. & W. W. Webster. These towns are reached
from Georgetown by a wagon road across the main range, near Gray's peak ;
from Fair Play, Park county, by a road across the range via a low pass at
52 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Hall's gulch, on one of the numerous tributaries of the Platte ; from Denver,
by way of South park and Tarryall pass, by a good wagon road, the best
means of reaching these and the mining districts of the county. About half
a mile from Montezuma, on a small tributary of the Snake, are the reduction
works, saw-mill and other buildings of the Boston Mining Association, the
proprietors of the Comstock lode. This little village is named St. John's,
and the greater portion of its inhabitants are employes of the Boston asso-
ciation.
JEFFERSON.
The western half of this county lies in the foot-hills, and the eastern
half on the plains. It is bounded on the north by Boulder and Weld coun-
ties; on the east by Arapahoe and Douglas counties; on the south by
Douglas, and on the west by Clear Creek and Gilpin counties.
Its western limits do not extend far enough up the foot-hills to reach the
belt of gold lodes that traverse these mountains, but include a series of
copper and iron veins, which contain ores of these metals in great quanti-
ties. Along the base of the foot-hills, in the upturned tertiary strata,
nearly the entire length of the county, coal measures of great extent have
already been discovered and extensively worked; and fire-clay, gypsum and
potter's clay also abound in unlimited quantities.
The agricultural advantages of this county are unsurpassed by any other
in Colorado. In the mountain portion, the valleys of streams (tributaries
of the Platte) widen out as they approach the plains, and form quite exten-
sive ranches, or farms, which are actively cultivated, with large and profit-
able returns. These yield oats, hay and vegetables, and when the plains
are reached, besides these, wheat, corn, and barley, with great profusion.
On the "plains" portion of the county, agriculture is aided by irrigation,
and ample facilities for this are in the reach of all, as canals traverse the
entire county, affording an abundant and unfailing supply of water at all
seasons. JelFerson county has but little waste land. The soil, not only of
the plains and valleys, but of the mountain slopes, is unusually productive,
and the climate favorable, even at the greatest elevations in the mountains.
With these advantages, the agricultural resources of the county are important,
and will afi"ord the means of support, and the opportunities for the accumu-
lation of wealth, to a large population; but from the greater facilities afforded
for manufacturing enterprises, these will, without doubt, eventually form the
principal feature of the county's industries. The principal inducements for
the investment of capital in manufactories are the abundance of cheap fuel,
supplied by the immense coal deposits; the inexhaustable supplies of excel-
lent building material; the existence of superior water-powers and mill-
sites,_and the proximity of large deposits of minerals, including copper and
iron in the county, and gold and silver in the adjoining counties of Boulder
and Gilpin. These advantages have already been improved to a considerable
extent, and the manufacturing enterprises of the county have assumed pro-
portions that place Jefi"erson county ahead of all other counties of Colorado
in such industries These embrace the manufacture of fire-brick, for fur-
naces; ordinary brick, for building purposes; coarse earthen or pottery ware,
and paper. Besides the factories engaged in the manufacture of these indis-
pensable articles, there are breweries, a distillery, planing mills, saw-mills,
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 53
a mill for grinding gypsum, and several extensive flouring mills. The fuel,
water-power, crude material, and material for tlie construction of factories,
used in all these, except that for paper, are among the products and resources
of the county, and exist in unlimited supplies. Coal for fuel, superior in
quality, and at cheap rates; fire, potter's, and ordinary clay, and gypsum at
the base of the foot-hills; lumber in the pine forest on the mountains; cereals
on the plains and valleys, and water-power from Clear creek and its tributa-
ries, which traverse the entire county from east to west. That these superior
advantages will induce the further investment of capital in manufacturing
enterprises is unquestionable; and no doubt, in addition to present indus-
tries, there will soon be constructed extensive reduction works, for the treat-
ment of the ores of the gold and silver belts of adjacent counties. The
facilities afforded for such works are unsurpassed, and should be taken
advantage of at once. Besides the superior wagon roads, peculiar to every
district of Colorado already inhabited, Jefferson is traversed by a railway,
the Colorado Central, which affords the medium of cheap and ample trans-
portation for her products to all markets, and places her in direct communi-
cation with all commercial centres.
The principal city, and county seat of Jefferson, is Golden City, located
in the valley of Clear creek, near the base of the foot-hills, in the northern
central portion of the county, about fifteen miles from Denver. This was
first settled early in 1859, by gulch miners, and soon became prosperous and
populous, and has remained so. It is not only the chief city of the county,
but the home of her principal manufacturing, mining, and mercantile enter-
prises, and educational and religious institutions. It is surrounded, traversed
and mined by coal measures, beds of fire and potter's clay, and ledges of
gypsum, and watered by Clear creek, which affords numerous superior water-
powers and mill privileges, and is in the immediate vicinity of pine forests
and cultivated lands. A detailed history of Golden and her advantages
appears in an appropriate chapter.
The only other town of importance in Jefferson county is Mount Vernon,
a beautiful little village, nestled among the foot-hills, about eighteen miles
from Denver, on the main wagon road from that city to Idaho Springs. It
is surrounded by quarries of limestone, which makes excellent building mate-
rial, and pine forests, affording good lumber in unlimited quantities. The
principal streams of Jefferson county are Clear creek and its tributaries^
and branches of the Platte — Deer, Turkey, Bear and Coal creeks, also
the North Fork of the South Platte, which flows through the southern
division of the county. They all have an easterly direction, and flow from
the foot-hills, across the county, to its eastern limits, and are skirted by
(■bottom lands, eminently fertile and actively cultivated.
The altitude of the county varies from 4,800 to 8,000 feet above the sea-
level, and the climate is that peculiar to the region — healthy, invigorating,
and free from all kinds of malarious or pulmonic diseases. Extremes in tem-
perature are unknown, and great falls of snow never take place. Stock fatten
at all seasons, without shelter, and without food save the grasses, which are
abundant and possess all the nutritious and perennial qualities peculiar to
those of Colorado.
Jefferson has already a population which numbers among the thousands;
but still has ample room, and offers superior inducements to tens of thousands
of industrious miners, mechanics and ranch-men.
54 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
DOUGLAS.
This county lies exclusively ia the "plains" division of the Territory.
Its southwestern limits take in a portion of the "Divide," which part is well
timbered with pine; the balance is entirely valley lands, and well adapted to
stock-raising (as the grasses are abundant) and agriculture, with the aid of
irrigation. The county is bounded, north, by Arapahoe county; east, by
the State of Kansas; south, by Greenwood county; and west, by Jefferson
county.
Nearly the entire county, from its southeastern border to its north-
western limits, is traversed by the Kansas Pacific railway. The lands along
this road are, at present, but partially improved, and, in fact, this is true of
the entire county; and its whole population is trifling, in proportion to its
extent and resources. But the completion of this line of railway (during
the summer of 1870) has attracted attention to the county, and afforded
facilities for its complete development; and soon emigrants, from the less
favored farming districts, east, will find comfortable homes in this portion
of the " great desert," and make themselves wealthy and the county populous.
Coal beds and iron ore have also been discovered in Douglas couaty — the
iron ore very superior in quality and in considerable quantities; but, at
present, mining enterprises form no part of the industries of the county.
In a country where gold and silver are abundant, but little attention is
attracted to the baser metals, especially when that country, like Colorado, is
remote from commercial and manufacturing centres, and not densely popu-
lated. Hence, the copper, iron and lead of the Territory have, as yet,
received but little notice; but the completion of two lines of railway, and
the consequent influx of all classes of citizens, will very soon effect a change
in the condition of things, and measures will be inaugurated by which our
vast wealth of copper, iron and lead will be made available, and contribute
their part to the general wealth of the Territory. Until this desired object is
effected, the iron ore of Douglas county will not be disturbed, and mining
enterprises will form no part of her industries. In the meantime, her pres-
ent agricultural and stock-raising advantages will be her only source of wealth
and population, and these are sufficiently important to make her populous
and prosperous.
In the western portion of the county, and on the " Divide," rains fall more
frequently than in other locations, and crops can be raised without irrigation;
but the greater portion of the county, like the balance of the plains, will
not produce without artificial moisture. This can be supplied, readily, at
comparatively small expense, as the county is traversed by streams which
flow from the "Divide," northward, to the Platte river, of which they are
tributaries. Principal among these are Plum, Cherry, Terrapin, Kiowa,
Bijou and Beaver creeks. The bottom lands along these are, like those of
all Colorado streams, exceedingly fertile and productive. It is along these
strean^ that the greater portion of the population exists, and Douglas has
no towns or cities of any importance, although her population is considerable.
In addition to the Kansas Pacific railway, the county has the usual good
wagon roads peculiar to Colorado; and these, combined, afford every facility
tor reaching all parts of the county and adjoining sections, and ample means
tor the transportation of her products to eastern and western markets.
1 he altitude of the county is between 3,500 and 8,000 feet above sea-
level, and the climate, like that of all the plains region, exceedingly healthful.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 65
This undeveloped county oflfers unusual inducements to colonists who
wish to engage in farming or stock raising, and should be carefully examined
by such, before making final choice of location.
LAKE.
This is one of the mining divisions, and one of the largest counties in
Colorado. It lies west of the Rocky Mountains, and has Summit county on
the north, Park and Fremont on the east, Fremont, Saguache and Conejos
counties on the south, and Utah on the west. This vast area, over 16,000
square miles, is walled in on the west and south by the Sierra Madres and
TJncompahgre mountains, and its surface broken by a continuous series of
spurs and ranges, extending from the Rocky Mountains to its western and
northern boundaries. The main southern branch of the Rio Colorado — the
Gunnison river and its tributaries — traverse the county from its eastern and
southern limits to its northwestern corner, and the head waters of the
Arkansas flow along its eastern limits, from the base of Mt. Lincoln, its
northeast look-out tower, about 100 miles, to the canon of that river, near
the foot of South park. It is along this river, and on the head waters of
the Gunnison, that the principal settlements, mining camps and mining
districts are located.
Lake has no continuous extent of level lands, but embraces a series of
valleys and small parks, which contain millions of acres, well adapted to
agricultural industries, and the greater portion of its entire area is suitable
for stock raising, from its mild climate, abundance of water and superior
grasses. Although farming and stock raising have not yet been engaged in
to any extent in Lake county, these will be among its important resources
when it is fully developed and densely populated. This county, with its
millions of acres of valuable timber, agricultural and grazing lands, numer-
ous water-powers, extensive belts of gold lodes, and vast areas of gulch and
placer diggings, has but few inhabitants, and is but partially explored. The
only settlements or improvements of any importance have been created by
gulch mining, mostly along the head waters of the Arkansas, near its source,
and are included in a belt along the eastern limits of the county, commencing
at the base of Mt. Lincoln, and extending south and east along the Arkan-
sas, to the caiion of that river.
The settlement of this region dates back to 1859. and the inhabitants
were more numerous in 1860, 1861, and 1862 than they have been at any
other period in the history of the country. The first settlers were gulch
miners and prospecters, and their operations were conducted mostly in the
following locations, in and about which are all the towns and mining camps
worthy of note in the county. Commencing with the most important gulch
mining district — California gulch — which has been extensively worked, with
large yields of the precious metal, we will enumerate a few of the most
important: Colorado gulch, Iowa gulch, Cache Creek diggings, Georgia bar,
Kelley's bar, Bortchey's gulch. Gold Run gulch, Gibson's gulch, Oregon
gulch. Lake Creek gulch, Lost Canon gulch, and Sacramento flats. There
are many other gulch and placer diggings besides the above named, all on
the tributaries of the Arkansas and head waters of the Gunnison, and quite
a number of lode discoveries, but we have no data concerning them. They
are nearly all included in the following mining districts, some of which were
56 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
or<?anized as- early as 1859: Lake Falls, Westphalian, Independence, Cali-
Ibraia, Sacramento and Adams. As mining enterprises in these districts
are now almost at a stand still, a detailed history of them would not be inter-
esting to the general reader. Their story is about the same as that of every
similar division in Colorado. First, wonderful discoveries of unheard of
treasures; great rush of miners, with great expectations, followed by disap-
pointment and failure — not in finding the precious metal in actual paying
quantities, but in not finding it in anticipated quantities; bad management and
fraudulent speculations, and then almost abandonment — not because gold did
not exist abundantly, but because it took patient and skillful labor to obtain
it. The principal settlements and towns are all in these mining districts,
and though now almost depopulated, formerly numbered their inhabitants
by thousands, which they will do again when proper measures are taken to
develop the actual resources of the county.
The only towns worthy of note are Granite, Dayton and Oro City. Day-
ton is most beautifully located at the head of Twin Lakes, near the main
range. These lakes are the largest bodies of tranquil water in Colorado,
and remarkable for the rare beauty and sublimity of their surrounding
scenery, even in the " Switzerland of America." They are, together, about
two miles in width, and five miles in length, separated by a strip of forest
land, about one-fourth mile in breadth. They give the name to the county,
and tourists, who have visited them, acknowledge all attempts at description
of their wonderful beauty, and the grandeur of the surroundings, as futile.
All lovers of the rare or beautiful in nature, who visit Colorado, should not
fail to witness the Twin Lakes.
This portion of the county is reached by good wagon roads from Fair
Play and other points in Park county, and by trails from Summit. The
roads reaching Lake county from Park county, all pass through South park.
The one from Fair Play to Dayton crosses the Montgomery spur of the
range north of Buffalo peaks, and winds along a tributary of the Platte,
and makes the passage of the mountain at a low point; and on the western
slope follows a tributary of the Arkansas. This route is available at all
seasons, and with further improvements in the present road, would admit of
the passage of heavily laden wagons, without difficulty. The best route,
however, is that via Canon City and the Colorado salt works, across the
range south of Buffalo peaks, where the elevation of the pass is not more
than 600 feet above South park. The passage of the range, at either of
these points, presents no barrier to railroad communication, and when Lake
county's resources are taken advantage of fully, the iron track will connect
her with the plains; and, without doubt, that time is not remote.
The lode mines of Lake present similar features to those of the western
slopes of the range, and no doubt equal, and perhaps surpass them in rich-
ness and extent; but, as before stated, they have not yet been operated to
any extent. It is impossible, from entire absence of data, to give any
approximate estimate of the amount of gold taken from the placer and
gulch diggings of Lake county, but it has been considerable, and still her
gulches and placers have only received partial development, and but little is
known of their great extent and value. Altogether, this vast area of all
sorts of mineral, grazing and farming, and timber lands, belongs mostly to
luture explorers and settlers, and will hereafter afford the historian ample
material lor statistics and observations. At present we can only record the
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 57
great natural advantages of the county, and dwell upon her wonderful system
of rivers, mountains and valleys, and the endless variety of geological forma-
tions, strata and fossils, which present themselves everywhere.
FREMONT COUNTY
Lies immediately west of Pueblo county, the Arkansas river passing directly
through it. It contains some beautiful and fertile valleys, but is chiefly
broken and mountainous in its outline. It contains a population of about
1,200. The now somewhat fiimous Wet Mountain valley, of German Colony
fame, lies partly in this county. Not so well adapted for agricultural pur-
poses or for grazing as many other less broken counties, yet the valleys are
very fertile, well watered, and the whole county is well supplied with a very
superior quality of bituminous coal — probably the only true coal in the Ter-
ritory — as shown in our chapter on Geology. Petroleum oil has also been
discovered in large quantities. Gypsum, marble and alum are among its
mineral productions. Canon City is the chief town and county seat, and
contains a rapidly increasing population of about 800. It is named from
the canon of the Arkansas, which has here cut its way through the rocky
barriers, and passes out to the plain through a deep canon, nearly eight miles
in length.
''Like a steed, in frantic fit,
Tliat flings the I'rotli from curb and bit,
The river chafes its waves to spray
O'er every rock tl>at bars its way,
Till foam globes on its eddies ride
Thick as the schemes of human pride."
The United States penitentiary for Colorado is located here.
HUERFANO
This county lies immediately south of Pueblo county, having Bent county
on the east. Las Animas on the south, and Fremont on the west. It is named
from the Huerfano river, which passes through it, and which, with its tributa-
ries, the Cucharas and Apache, forms a stretch of sixty miles of exceedingly
fertile valley land. It has a population of over 2.500, about one-half Ameri-
cans and the other half Mexicans, or of Spanish-Mexican descent.
Stock raising is the principal interest in this county, its grazing capacities
being almost unlimited. Cattle and sheep are raised by thousands every
year, and the business is highly remunerative. Agriculture is by no means
neglected, the numerous valleys being adapted to the production of the vari-
ous cereals in the greatest perfection. Corn, in particular, grows with great
luxuriance in Huerfano, and thousands of bushels are produced annually,
with very little outlay of husbandry. In the mountainous portion of the
county, the precious metals exist, but not in such quantities as to make
mining more profitable than agriculture, and they are accordingly neglected.
COSTILLA.
This county is located chiefly in the beautiful San Luis park, and on the
east side of the Rio Grande del Norte river. The population consists chiefly
of Mexicans, or Spanish-Mexicans, who do not speak English. The settle-
ments are scattered along the Costilla, Culebra, Ute, Trinchera, and Sangre
de Cristo creeks, and the principal industry is stock raising. Sheep, horses,
58 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Croats cattle and asses are reared extensively. The people are, for the most
part Catholics, and every little town has its church, located on the principal
plaza. The houses are usually built of adobe, or sun-dried brick, and not
more than one story high.
The population is variously estimated at from 2,000 to 3,000, although
the recent census returns less than 2,000. Fort Garland is in this county,
and is a prominent frontier post of the government. The principal town
and county seat is Costilla, situated on the Rio Costilla, a tributary of the
Rio Grande. It claims a population of 1,000. San Luis is a thriving town
of 700 inhabitants, and was formerly the county seat. It is on the Culebra
river.
CONEJOS.
This county, lying west of the Rio Grande river, contains a population
of over 2,500, chiefly Mexicans and half-breeds. Owing to its somewhat
isolated position, the resources of this county are comparatively little known.
It contains a large area of well watered and arable land, but the class of
inhabitants settled within its borders are not particularly noted for enterprise
or thrift; hence very little has ever been accomplished in the way of devel-
opment. The inhabitants live in adobe houses, grouped here and there into
little plazas, or villages, for purposes of protection from hostile bands of
Indians, as well as for social reasons.
Wheat is the principal crop raised, and wool-growing the chief industry.
In the mountain portions of the county the precious metals exist in greater
or less quantities, but mining is not engaged in to any extent. Gypsum is
found in abundance in various places in the county, and the native inhabit-
ants use this substance largely in whitewashing their adobe buildings.
Guadalupe is the county seat, and principal, town. It is located on the
Conejos river, about twenty miles above its junction with the Rio Grande.
The other villages, or plazas, are San Margarita, Rinsones, San Jose, San
Raphael, San Antonio, Pinos, Conejos, Guadaloupita, Tirvietta, and Hilaris.
Conejos is one of the largest counties in Colorado, containing over 11,000
square miles of territory, enough to make several States as large as Rhode
Island; but it is very much bnoken by mountains, and much of it yet unex-
plored. It occupies the southwestern corner of the Territory, its western
half being included in the Consolidated Reservation of the Ute Indians, and
therefore forbidden ground to all white men. The time is not far distant
when this interesting region, with its beautiful climate and rich grazing lands,
will attract more attention than it has yet done.
SAGUACHE.
Saguache county is bounded north by Lake; east by Fremont and Huer-
fano; south by Conejos, and west by Lake. It occupies the northern
extremity of the beautiful San Luis park, which, now that a portion of it
has been sold to Europeans by ex-Governor Gilpin for $2,500,000, bids fair
to come into much more general notice. As yet, it is the most sparsely
settled county in the Territory. It is a fertile and finely watered region, and
ofi"ers inducements to stock raisers and farmers, elsewhere unequalled. Its
valleys are great natural meadows, covered with the richest vegetation, and
Its table lands afford the finest natural pasture lands in the world. The
mountain scenery, hemming it in on three sides, is grand in the extreme.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 59
Near the centre of the county is the Saguache lake, from which it is named,
and which is certainly a most remarkable sheet of water. Its waters ebb
and flow with the regularity of the tides, and yet it is a comparatively small
body of water, measuring but twenty-four miles in length, and not more than
ten in width at the widest part. When at low ebb it is scarcely more than
an ordinary swamp; while at full tide it has considerable depth. Some
observers have attempted to show a similarity between its waters and those
of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, and there is a crazy theory afloat that there
is a subterranean communication between the two !
The population of Saguache, chiefly adventurous Americans, with their
herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, numbers between 300 and 400. A few
are engaged in cultivating vegetables and the cereals, and find ready market
for their produce in the mining settlements along the upper Arkansas, etc.
It is a beautiful county, and cannot fail to be densely populated at no dis-
tant day.
BENT COUNTY
Lies on both sides of the Arkansas, extending from Pueblo on the west, to
the Kansas state line on the east, and from Greenwood on the north, to Las
Animas on the south. It is a large county, but sparsely settled, and contain-
ing but one or two posts of any importance. It is named after Col. Bent,
whose "Old Fort" is still a landmark in this region, and for an account of
whose trapping and exploring expeditions, see chapter on Early History.
Las Animas City, opposite Fort Lyon, and near the mouth of the Las
Animas or Purgatoire river, is the principal town, and bids fair to become a
point of some commercial importance. Boggsville is the county seat of Bent,
but is a place of, as yet, but little importance. Except along the immediate
valley of the Arkansas, the lands of this county are only adapted for grazing
purposes, there being no facilities for irrigation. The population of this
county is about 600 or 700.
GREENWOOD.
This county stretches from El Paso on the west, to the Kansas line on
the east, and lies between Douglas on the north, and Bent on the south.
The Kansas Pacific railway passes through it from east to west. Its surface
is similar to that of the northern portion of Bent. It is, in fact, situated in
the heart of the "Plains." It has no genuine running streams; abounds in
bufi'alo grass and cactus, and possesses little interest, as yet, to the agricul-
turist. In time irrigation, by means of artesian wells, may demonstrate that
its soil is little inferior to that of more favored sections. For the present,
there are plenty of more desirable lands to be had for the asking.
Kit Carson, on the Kansas Pacific railway, is the county seat, and with
the exception of one or two small stations, the only town in the county.
The population of Greenwood is not far from 600.
PUEBLO.
This valley county lies on each side of the Arkansas river, and is
bounded, north, by El Paso; east, by Bent and a corner of Greenwood;
south, by Huerfano; and west, by Fremont. It is one of the finest agri-
cultural counties in Colorado — containing over 1,200 square miles of exceed-
ingly fertile land, and including, within its borders, several of the richest
60 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTOKY
valleys yet brought under the hand of the husbaudman, west of the Missis-
sippi. The numerous tributaries of the Arkansas— principal of which are
the Fontaine qui Bouille, St. Charles, Chico and Greenhorn— cut up this
county into a series of valleys, with intervening mesa or table-lands, most
of which can be easily irrigated. These undulated uplands form excellent
natural pastures, all the year round, for stock, while the valleys^ are readily
cultivated, and yield immense crops of vegetables and grain. Eastern and
Northern travelers here first meet with those large ranches, so common
further south, on which native Mexicans are employed to perform all the
the labor. Some of these farms contain several thousand acres, and, in
several instances, fifteen hundred acres are in cultivation on a single ranch.
The Mexican laborers occupy these lands as tenants, and, in case of the
larger farms, are so numerous as to constitute, each, a hamlet of several
hundred souls.
The county contains a population of over three thousand, and is
rapidly increasing. Agriculture and stock raising are the chief pursuits,
and both yield large returns to the industrious husbandman. Stock raising
has recently been attracting more attention than farming, and may now be
fairly stated as the leading pursuit of this county. The vast mesas lying
between the streams furnish pasturage for more cattle and sheep than it will
be possible to produce for many years to come.
There are two military posts in Pueblo county — Fort Reynolds, at the
junction of the Huerfano and Arkansas, and Fort Lyon, near the mouth of
the Purgatoire or Las Animas.
Water-power abounds along the various streams, and will, some day, form
an important element in the industries of the Arkansas valley.
The chief town of any importance in the county is Pueblo, which is the
county seat, and is beautifully situated on the Arkansas, just above the
mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouille. Pueblo has long been known as a dis-
tributing centre for the Mexican trade, and a rendezvous for the various
stage lines traversing Southern Colorado. It is a thriving town of nearly
1,000 inhabitants, and, next to Denver, is growing more rapidly than any
other town in the Territory. Already it possesses good schools, several fine
churches, and numerous elegant private residences. The Colorado Chieftain^
a weekly newspaper, is published here, and merits the praise of having made
itself decidedly the best local paper in Colorado.
The following exhibit is an approximate statement of the business of
Pueblo for 1870:
Value of merchandise sold $500,000
Bushels of grain sold 260 000
Sacks of flour sold 13 qoq
Feet of lumber sold \ 500 000
Value of goods manufactured— tinware, harness and saddlery, boots and
shoes, furniture, and agricultural implements $70,000
Number of pounds of freight received 2,'20o'oon
Amount paid for freight '$'J2!oOO
Cash receipts of hotels .55 000
Cash receipts of stage, offices for passenger and express fare 5o',000
When this county shall possess an outlet by rail — which it will shortly
have, either by direct connection with the Kansas Pacific at Bent's Fort or
Kit Carson, or by means of the Denver and Santa Fe line, which is now
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 61
being graded and is expected to reach Colorado City during the coming
season — its trade and prosperity will increase a hundred fold.
LAS ANIMAS COUNTY
Lies along the southern boundary of Colorado, and takes its name from the
principal stream running through it — the Las Animas, or Purgatoire (some-
times vulgarized into '• Picketwire").
The Las Animas ("The Spirits") valley forms one of the most magnifi-
cent tracts of farming land in Colorado, while the mesas or table-lands, out-
lying, furnish unequaled grazing grounds for thousands of cattle and sheep.
Tts population cannot fall short of 5,000, the official canvass in June, 1870,
registering 4,276 names in the county.
Trinidad is the county seat and principal town. It is situated on the
Las Animas, but a few miles north of the territorial line, and is the centre
of a large trade from New 3Iexico and the celebrated Moreno mines. The
place contains a population of nearly 1,200, largely composed of people of
Spanish and 3Iexican descent.
EL PASO.
This county lies immediately south of Douglas, below the great " Divide."
It has Greenwood on the east, Pueblo on the south, and Park county on the
west of it. Pike's peak is located in this county; also, the celebrated soda
springs, first described by Fremont in his account of explorations in 1843-4,
and the equally famous "Garden of the Gods." The country, as a whole, is
beautifully diversified with mountain, plain and valley. The dashing Fon-
taine qui Bouille leaves the mountains at the base of Pike's peak, and runs
southward through the whole breadth of the county. Its valley is very
fertile, and has been somewhat thickly settled along its whole extent.
The county contains nearly 1,500 people, chiefly engaged in farming and
stock raising.
In the northern portion of the county lies the beautiful valley of Monu-
ment creek, named from the natural curiosities of rock scattered along its
banks.
Colorado City is the county seat, and only town of importance in the
county.
The following concerning Southern Colorado, contributed by that famous
"prospector," Dick Irwin, will be found quite interesting:
"The southwestern portion of Colorado furnishes the theme of many a
camp-fire story. ^Twas here that Bill Williams was killed, in 1850, by the
Utes, near the dead camp of Fremont's expedition of 1849. General Kit
Carson made himself famous by exploits in this region, and died, a few years
ago, at Fort Garland. Ruinsof Aztec towns are found in many places. Tra-
dition says the civilized Indians abandoned their cities, rushed to the rescue,
over 200 years ago, when Cortez beseiged Mexico, and Montezuma called to
his assistance the worshipers of the sun; and the faithful went to fighl for
their God. Some of those ancient buildings, situated on the high mesa of the
Colorado of the West, contain as many as 300 small rooms, and are yet in an
excellent state of preservation. Most of these are built of cedar, well fitted
62 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
and plastered, but some are made of stone, and many have cellars. The Pagosa
hot springs, on the San Juan, are a remarkable natural curiosity, and the
■waters are said to possess wonderful medicinal properties. Hot springs are
found in other localities. This section of Colorado has been the ' stamping
ground' of many an old trapper and explorer, and quite a number of them
lie yet where they died, unburied. Camp-fire tales, that warm ambition or
freeze the blood with terror — tales founded on fact, with Kit Carson, the
Bents, St. Vrain, Bill Williams, Col. Pfieffer, the Autobeas, Roubideaux,
and other old mountaineers, as central figures; or Indian and Mexican
atrocities, the Ute and Navajo wars, the Taos massacre, and the fiendish
Espinosas — all have additional interest when told near the scene of their
enactment. Most of the heroic band of old mountaineers have passed away.
Many of them, after carrying life recklessly through the troubles incident
to a change of government and continual war with 'our red brethren,'
settled down to civilized life, ranching, and Mexican wives. None of
them ever went back to the States. Col. St. Vrain lives in Taos. Tom
Tobin (or Autobeas) has a ranch on the Trenchera, near Fort Garland;
his brother Charley lives on the Huerfano, and both are extensively engaged
in stock raising. 'Old Col. Pfieffer' (not yet quite forty-five) wanders,
almost alone, among the scenes of his warfare and the graves of his com-
rades. He was a careless boy, fresh from the military institute in Stock-
holm, Sweden, when he first came to the far west, in 1847. He was always
noted for his cool daring, and soon was distinguished as a good Indian
fighter. He took an active part in the long series of wars with the Coman-
ches. Apaches, Utes and Navajos, that have kept back progress in New
Mexico, Arizona and Colorado, and are not quite over yet. He was lieuten-
ant-colonel under General Kit Carson, during the Navajo campaigns of
1863-4-5-6, when 11,000 of those 'lords of New Mexico,' who called the
Mexicans their herders, were compelled to surrender to a small force, mostly
volunteers, and were removed from the San Juan country to the Basque
Redondo Military Reservation. Many wild stories are told of his exploits.
On one occasion, in Santa Fe, he wrapped a 'serape' around his head, and
went into a store that was on fire, and brought out two kegs of powder that
were charred and blazing. At another time, with a knife in his right hand,
he killed a grizzly bear that was chewing up his left arm. He fought a
duel, once, with two Capote Indians. The weapons were camp-knives. He
killed them both, though badly used up himself When the Apaches killed
his wife and children, at the Ojo del Muerte (Spring of the Dead), in 1863,
he was shot through both legs. In fact, there is hardly room for a fresh
cut or bullet hole on his body; and still he lives, but lives unhappy. Since
his family were killed his only pleasure has been revenge. It was a bad day
for the Apaches when they killed old Pfieffer's family. He made several
trips, alone, into their country, staying, sometimes for months, and always
seemed pleased, for a few days, on his return. If there was no party going
his way, in a few weeks he was off again, with his horse and trusty rifle.
He was always accompanied by about half a dozen wolves, in the Apache
country. 'They like me,' he said, once, 'because they're fond of dead
Indian, and I feed them well.' Col. Pfieffer, when not out in the mountains,
makes his home at Fort Garland and Conejos. He, too, will soon be gone."
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 63
LARIMER.
This county Las Wyoming Territory on the north, Weld county on the
east, Weld and Boulder counties on the south, and Summit county on the
west. The western portion of Larimer is extremely mountainous, and
embraces the eastern declivities and numerous spurs of the main range, from
Long's peak north to the northern boundary of the Territory, and also the
foot-hills. These latter are broken through at many points by mountain
torrents, where deep cartons are formed, which add much to the ruggedness
and inaccessibility of this portion of Colorado. In this mountainous portion
excellent pine timber is abundant, and available streams for water-powers
are plentiful. Among these is the Cache-a-la-Poudre, a considerable and
remarkably beautiful branch of the south Platte river.
The eastern part of the county presents the undulating surface peculiar
to that portion of the plains which lies along the foot-hills, and is exceedingly
well adapted to agricultural pursuits.
As yet mineral deposits of no great value have been discovered in
Larimer, although the mountains in this region may be traversed with fissure
veins and mineral belts that may enrich future prospectors and miners.
Laporte, a beautiful village on the Cache-a-la-Poudre, in the eastern cen-
tral portion of the county, is the principal town. The unusual beauty of the
scenery surrounding this town, and the healthfulness of the location, make it
a very pleasant place of summer resort for tourists. The manufacture of
lumber from the pine forests, and farming, are the principal industries of
Larimer county.
WELD.
This county lies entirely in the plains division and forms the north-
eastern corner of Colorado. It has Wyoming and Nebraska on the north,
Nebraska on the east, Arapahoe county on the south, and Boulder and
Larimer counties on the west. Although exclusively on the plains, the
surface of Weld county is beautifully diversified with valleys and ridges, and
the greater portion covered with grasses and other vegetation. But few
forest trees are to be found ^ but extensive coal beds exist. These supply
ample fuel for all domestic and manufacturing purposes, and when fully
developed will become a source of wealth to the county. Iron ores abound
in the western portion, but, from the absence of smelting works, are valueless
at present. The leading interests of Weld, however, will always be agricul-
ture. So much has been said in this work concerning the richness of the
soil of the valley lands of Colorado, that we need only state here that the
Platte river and many of its tributaries traverse the county ; this
establishes the fact that farming and stock raising will always be paying
industries in this division of the Territory. Already many thousands of acres
of excellent lands are under cultivation, which produce largely ; and vast
herds of fat cattle graze upon the succulent grasses in the valleys and upon
the ridges.
One of the largest settlements in this county is the Union Colony at
Greeley, which receives appropriate notice elsewhere.
Although Weld is one of the best watered of the plains counties, still
irrigation is necessary everywhere, and facilities for this abundant, except in
64
ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
the southeastern portion of the county, which presents but few inducements
to agriculturists. This arid portion of the county is like the balance of the
plains, covered with nutritious grasses, but the absence of moisture makes
it almost uninhabitable.
The entire county, from north to south, is traversed by the Denver Pacific
railway. Along the lines of this road are the best agricultural lands and the
largest towns in the county — Greeley and Evans being the principal.
The following official statement does not represent fairly the number of
inhabitants or total propertv valuation of Colorado, as there has been an
unprecedented increase of population by immigration during the last portion
of the past year and the first of the present, and proportionate increase of
taxable property; and all this since the compilation of this table. Another
matter to be considered is mining property — except a certain class of
improvements, buildings, etc., — is not subject to taxation.
Arapahoe ....
Bent
Boulder
Clear Creek.
Conejos
Costilla
Douglas
El Paso
Fremont
Gilpin
Greenwood ...
Huerfano
Jefferson
Lake
Larimer
Las Animas..,
Park
Pueblo
Saguache ....
Summit
Weld
COUNTY SEAT.
Denver
Boggsville
Boulder City..
Idaho
Guadalupe
Costilla ,
Frankstown...
Colorado City.
Caiion Citj'
Central City..
Kit Carson
Ba.lito
Golden City....
Dayton
Laporte
Trinidad
Fair Play
Pueblo ,
Saguache
Breckinridge ..
Popula-
tiuii.
6,829
592
1,939
1,596
2,479
1,779
1,388
987
1,064
5,493
510
2.250
2,390
522
838
4.276
447
2,265
304
258
l.'iSO
Total I 39,842
Acres in Cul-
tivation.
Total Proprrty
A'aluatiuii.
65,988
320
50,378
1.549
No return
3,727
37.434
60,019
12,915
9,597
No return
17,400
102,392
3,142
13,119
18,502
1,125
19,639
1,260
No return
53,133
S4,731
351,
1,121,
1,100,
205,
118,
574,
524,
375,
2.737,
446,
324,
1,034,
172,
332.
457,
175,
857,
129,
123,
854,
,830 00
,248 50
,972 00
,112 25
,702 60
,0G2 00
,397 00
,965 84
,950 00
,431 00
,924 00
,932 00
,738 50
917 00
510 00
932 00
559 00
811 00
653 00
920 31
381 00
478,239 16,752,954 50
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 65
GEOLOGY.
The province of geology is to investigate tlie formations of the globe,
and the various revolutions which have changed its surface; to define the
causes, and determine the conditions under which metals, minerals, rocks,
fossils and soils are developed and discovered; to classify the phenomena of
creation, and define periods, and describe landmarks in, and boundaries to,
the terrestial works of creative nature; to show how the Infinite has grad-
ually clustered on the surface of this sphere, and stored within its deep,
rocky recesses, all that is essential to the development and sustenance of the
higher order of animal life, and enacted laws and prescribed rules by which
that superior intelligence — reason — can make these conducive to the well-
being and happiness of man.
The geologist measures time by the same meter with which infinity is
scanned. He reads on tHe surface of rocks, fossils and minerals the histo-
ries of myriads of years, and records these intelligibly. He forges kej's to
unlock the vaults in which are stored the richest treasures of the universe,
and furnishes duplicates to every intelligent being. He dives beneath the
waters of oceans, and explores the deepest caverns of earth in search of
germs of scientific truth, which, under his skillful touch, expand to beau-
tiful flowers and rich fruits of useful knowledge; and nowhere can he find a
riper field for explorations than in this Territory. The beds of rivers and
smaller streams, the plains, valleys, parks, and cafions, the "Divide," the
foot-hills, and mountain ranges, furnish specimens of nearly every known
variety of rock, strata, mineral and fossil, from those of the azoic period
to the present era.
The scope of this work, however, will only admit of a brief compila-
tion from a recent survey, that of Prof. ¥. V. Hayden, United States
geologist, made in the summer and fall of 1869, and extracts from an able
chapter on tlte " Geology and Geological History of Colorado," prepared by
Prof. Wm. Denton, of Boston, and published in O. J. Hollister's comprehen-
sive work on the mines of Colorado. The following extracts are from Prof.
Hayden's preliminary field report, as his full report of his important survey
is not yet before the public; also, from Prof. Persifor Frazer's report of his
examination of the mines and minerals of the mining districts of Colorado,
made under direction of Prof. Hayden, and published with his preliminary
report. For convenience, we will divide the Territory into three grand
divisions. The first — the plains to the base of the foot-hills. Second — the
foot-hills and the main range, and its spurs. Third — the mountains, valleys
and parks west of the range. In the first division will be included the
"Divide," between the waters of the Platte and Arkansas. In the second.
South park, which is east of the main range.
From Prof. Hayden's report we make the following extracts, which define
the formations which present themselves in the northern portion of the first
division. The first extracts are made from a portion of his journal which
describes the geological features of the country between Cheyenne and
Laporte, on the Cache-a-la-Poudre, a distance of about forty miles :
"The distance from Cheyenne to Laporte, on the Cache-a-la-Poudre, is
forty miles. The tertiary pudding-stone beds extend along the immediate
flanks of the mountmins for twenty-five miles, but disappear from the plains
within ten or fifteen miles of Laporte.
3
66 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
"I have estimated their entire thickness here at from 1,200 to 1,500
feet. The high hills, near the station, are capped with coarse sandstone, with
horizontal strata, and are 800 feet above the bed of the creek that flows near
their base. From beneath these recent beds arise the more somber-hued
beds of the lignite tertiary. We have then broad grassy plains, dotted here
and there with buttes, like truncated cones, and long narrow belts of table-
lands, with perfectly plain surfaces to the eye from a distance. Why these
more modern tertiary beds are so persistent along the immediate sides of the
mountains, but have been entirely swept away tea miles to the eastward, I
cannot tell. This narrow belt, about ten or fifteen miles wide, extending up
to the granite rocks, and for the most part concealing all the intermediate
rocks, forms a sort of bench, with a gently ascending grade for the Union
Pacific railroad."
We omit Prof. Hayden's description of the coal beds that lie about
twenty miles south of Cheyenne, but quote fully from the matter which fol-
lows, so as to give the reader a correct understanding of the geological fea-
tures of this region.
"Near Park station, about twelve miles north of Cache-a-la-Poudre, the
upheaved ridges begin to spread out, revealing very clearly, to the scrutiny
of the geologist, all the sedimentary rocks, to the tertiary, inclusive. Com-
mencing in the plains, about ten miles east of the margin of the mountains,
we find a series of gently inclined tertiary sandstones, dipping from 5° to
10°. Then come the complete series of cretaceous strata in their order,
inclining from 20° to 35°. Underneath the ridge, capped with the sand-
stone No. 1, is a thin belt of ashen-gray marls and arenaceous marls, with
one or two layers, two to four feet thick, of hard blue limestone, which I
regard as of Jurassic age. These pass down into light reddish, loose arena-
ceous sediments. Further toward the mountains come one to three ridges
of brick-red sandstone, and loose, red sandy layers, sometimes variegated.
Close to the mai-gin of the mountains, sometimes forming the inside ridge,
is a bed of whitish limestone, underlaid by dull purplish sandstone and
pudding-stones, which are probably of carboniferous age. These beds dip
at various angles, from 30° to 60°, and, as far I can determine, conform
generally to the inclination of the metamorphic rocks which compose the
mountain nucleus.
" The opening in the foot-hills of the mountains, through which Box
Elder creek flows, exhibits the red beds and Jurassic in full development.
The whitish-gray sandstones, which lie- between the red beds and the well-
marked cretaceous strata, contribute much toward giving sharpness of outline
to the hills, and the broken masses of rock from this bed are scattered over
their sides.
" The valley of the Box Elder is very beautiful, and, like the valleys of
most of the little streams here, makes its way through the ridges and flanks
of the mountains, nearly at right angles to the trend of the strata.
"All these ridges, or 'hog-backs,' as they are called by the settlers of
the country, vary much in the angle of dip. It not unfrequently occurs
that the outer and more recent ridges incline at a very high angle, or stand
nearly vertical; and there are many examples where they have been tipped
several degrees past verticality; while the inner sandstone ridges, lying
almost agamst the metamorphic rocks, incline at a small angle, or are nearly f
horizontal; and again this maybe reversed. These mountain valleys are '
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 67
not only beautiful, but they are covered with excellent grass, making the
finest pasture grounds for stock in the world. The animals are so sheltered,
by the lofty rock-walls on each side, that they remain all winter in good
condition, without any further provision for them.
" The Box Elder separates into two branches in the foot-hills, and between
the forks there is a large circular cone, with nearly horizontal strata of the
7ed beds. A section, ascending, would be as follows:
"1. Brick-red sandstone, with irregular laminae, and all the usual signs
of currents or shallow water. Some of the layers are more loosely laminated
than others, thus causing projecting portions — 300 to 400 feet.
" 2. The red sandstone passes up into a yellow or reddish-yellow sand-
itone, massive — 60 feet.
'"3. Passing up into a bed of grayish-yellow rather massive sandstone^
50 feet.
" 4. Ashen-brown nodular or indurated clay, with deep, dull purple
bands; with some layers of brown and yellow fine-grained sandstone,
undoubtedly the usual Jurassic beds, with all the lithological characters, as
seen near Lake Como, on the Union Pacific railroad — 150 to 200 feet.
"Near the base of these beds are thin layers of a fine-grained grayish
calcareous sandstone, with a species of Ostrea and fragments of Pentacrinus
asteriscus. Scattered through this bed are layers or nodules of impure lime-
etone.
" 5. Above this marly clay there is at least 200 feet of sandstone and
laminated arenaceous material, varying in color from a dirty brown to grayish-
white, with layers of fine grayish-white sandstone.
" We have, also, in this vicinity, an illustration of the difference of incli-
nation in the same series of upheaved ridges. In the plains, some of the
lower lignite tertiary beds and cretaceous No. 5 stand nearly vertical, or 85°
east. No. 4 fills the intervening valley with its dark shale, and the next
ridge west — cretaceous No. 3 — inclines 36°. Then come the Jurassic beds,
capped with the sandstones of No. 1, inclining 8°. Then comes a series of
red beds, dipping 1° to 3°. The inner ridge, or "hog-back," is the largest
of all — 150 to 200 feet high — is partly covered on the east, or sloping side,
with the loose red send of the triassic; and on the west, or abrupt side, is
revealed a considerable thickness of limestone, which I suppose to be of car-
boniferous age. This ridge is remarkably furrowed on the eastern slope by
streams, but is too high up on the mountain side to be divided, by the cur-
rents, into the peculiar conical fragments, as the lower ridges are. And
hence it presents an almost unbroken flank for miles. There is no better
exhibition of the sedimentary rocks, with all their peculiar characteristics
and irregularities, than from the head of Box Elder creek to Cache-a-la-
Poudre, where the belt of upheaved sedimentary rocks varies from five to
fifteen miles in width. .
" Inside of the sedimentary ridges are the metamorphic rocks, mostly red
feldspathic granites, disintegrating readily, and easily detected by the eye, at
a distance, by their style of weathering. Still further westward are the
lofty snow-capped ranges, whose eternal snows form the sources of the per-
manent streams of the country.
"It seems clear to me that the more recent sedimentary formations, up
to the lignite tertiary, inclusive, once extended over the whole country.
Perhaps no finer locality exists in the West for the careful study of the
68 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
different sedimentary formations, and their relations to the metamorphic
rocks, than along the overland stage road from Laijfcmie to Denver.
" Before reaching Laporte, the road passes, for twenty miles or more,
through ridge after ridge, remarkably well exposed. After emerging from
the mountains eastward, it runs south for four or five miles along the creta-
ceous beds, with their upturned edges on the east side, and the Jurassic and
triassic (?) on the west, forming a slope much like the roof of a house.
The valley between the two ridges, through which the road runs, is a beau-
tiful one.
" South of Big Thompson creek, the belt of upheaved ridges, or un-
changed rocks, becomes quite narrow, and continues so to Denver, and even
beyond.
" The cretaceous rocks in this region, though plain to one who has care-
fully studied them on the Upper Missouri, are not separated into well-marked
divisions. If they had first been studied along the foot of the mountains,
only liom Cheyenne southward, it is very doubtful whether the five distinct
groups of strata would have been made out. The three divisions, upper,
middle, and lower cretaceous, are more natural south of the North Platte,
inasmuch as Nos. 2, 3, 4 and 5 pass into each other by imperceptible gra-
dations. Though very few organic remains are observed in them, yet I have
never found the slightest difl&culty in detecting the different divisions, at a
glance, by their lithological characters; but I find it quite impossible to draw
any line of separation that will be permanent. Quite marked changes occur
in the sediments of these divisions in different parts of the West ; but, by
following them continuously in every direction, from their typical appear-
ance on the Upper Missouri, the changes are so gradual that I have never
lost sight of them for a mile, unless concealed by more recent deposits.
" As I have before stated, I regard the group of sandstones, which are
always found between well-defined cretaceous No. 2 and the Jurassic beds, as
No. 1, or transition. No. 2 is certainly well shown, with many of its features,
but is a black shale, often arenaceous, containing many layers of sandstone,
with some concretions; but so gradually passing up into No. 3, that it is
quite impossible to separate the two. Only in thin portions of either Nos.
2 or 3 do we find any resemblance to the same groups as shown on the Upper
Missouri. No. 3 is a thinly-laminated yellow chalky shale, with some layers
of gray, rather chalky limestone, always containing an abundance of Inoce-
ramus, doubtless /. problematicus, and Ostrea congesta. Remains of fishes
are almost always found in the dark shales of No. 2. The black shales of
No. 4 are quite conspicuous and well marked, and have been quite thoroughly
prospected for coal, but to no purpose. These black shales pass gradually up
mto yellow rusty arenaceous clays, which characterize No. 5 ; and No. 5
passes up into the lignite tertiary beds, where they can be seen in contact,
without any well-defined line of separation, that I could ever discover. But
few species of fossils are found in Nos. 4 and 5 in their southern extension,
but BaculUes ovatus and several species of Inoceramus Ammonites, etc., are
common. ^ Another feature is well marked here, and that is, there are no
beds that indicate long periods of quiet deposition of the sediments. Nearly
all the sediments indicate either comparatively shallow water or currents
more or less rapid.
" Sometimes a single ridge will include all the beds of one formation, or
even those of two or three. I have often seen the sandstones of No. 1, the
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 69
Jurassic, aad a portion of the triassic included in one ridge and the adjoining
valley. Again, a single formation ■will be split up into two or more ridges.
" On the Cache-a-la-Poudre, about a mile above Laporte, on the south
side of the river, the sandstones of No. 1 are separated into four successive
ridges, inclining, respectively, 18°, 21°, 35° and 46° about southeast.
Much of this sandstone is a fine-grained grayish-white and rusty yellow
color, sometimes concretionary, or like indurated mud. Here all the divis-
ions of the cretaceous extend eastward in low ridges, until they die out in
the plains, or are concealed by the overlying tertiary. Along the Cache-a-
la-Poudre and its branches is a series x>f terraces, which are quite uniform.
" This valley is one of the most lertile in Colorado. The present year
there has been so much rain that irrigation has been unnecessary. The bot-
tom lands are about two miles wide, and thickly settled from mouth to
source. The grass is unusually fine this year, everywhere.
" In company with Dr. Smith, of Laporte, I visited the supposed gold
and copper mines at or near the sources of the Cache-a-la-Poudre river.
This stream makes its way through what might be called a monoclinal
rift, or between two ridges, whether of changed or unchanged rocks,
which incline in the same direction. We ascend to the axis of the main
Rocky Mountain range by a series of step-like ridges, each one inclining in
the same general direction at some angle, with their counterparts on the
opposite side of the main axis. Speaking of these ridges, locally, I have
called them in this report monoclinal, from the fact that, as a rule, their
counterparts, although they have once existed on the west side of the range,
are in most cases swept away. We passed up a beautiful valley, with the
red beds on our left and a few remnants of the red beds and metamorphic
rocks on our right, for about fifteen miles. We then came to the red feld-
spathic granites, in which the mineral lodes are located. We first examined
a local vein of black rock, in which hornblende predominates. It contains
some mica and iron, so that it might be called a local outcrop of black horn-
blende syenite. Masses ©f it have a rusty look, from the decomposition of the
iron in the rock, and sometimes it is covered with an incrustation of common
salt or potash. Iron, in some form, is one of the prominent constituents of all
the rocks of this region, changed or unchanged. So far as I could deter-
mine, the inclination of the metamorphic rocks is in the same direction as
the sedimentary. I have assumed the position that all the rocks of the
West are, or were, stratified, and that, where no line of stratification can be
seen, as in some of the massive granites, they have been obliterated by heat
during their metamorphism. Therefore, all the metamorphic rocks, whether
stratified or massive, that form the nucleus of the Rocky Mountains, must
have some angle of dip equal with the sedimentary rocks. In many cases I
have to be guided by the intercalated beds of mica or talcose slates. I am
of the opinion that there are anticlinals and synclinals among the metamor-
phic rocks of this region, and that the mountain valleys are thus formed, for
the most part.
" We examined a number of lodes, which were moderately rich in copper.
All the lodes have a trend about northeast and southwest, and are two to
four feet wide, with well-defined walls. Much of the gangue rock is spongy,
like slag, owing to the decomposition of iron pyrites; and there are large
masses of the casts of cubes, evidently cubes of iron pyrites. Our examina-
tions were not very thoroTxgh, but I was not very favorably impressed with the
•
70 . ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
district as a rich mineral region. Some of the copper mines, at some future
day, may yield a fair return; but it will be many years before the country
will be built up by its mineral wealth.
"Our route to-day was along the flanks of the mountains, from Cache-
a-la-Poudre to Big Thompson creek. Lying over the red beds, and
appearing to form a dividing line between the red beds and the ashen-gray
marly clays above, is a well defined bed of bluish semi-crystalline limestone,
two to four feet thick, somewhat cherty, though susceptible of a high polish,
too brittle and liable to fracture in any direction to be valuable for orna.
mental purposes — probably useful fo| lime only. I regard this as of
Jurassic age, although I was unable to find in it any well-marked organic
remains. The same bed occurs in the Laramie plains, where it contains
many fragments of crinoidal stems, which Professor Agassiz referred to the
well known Jurassic genus Apwonnites.
" On the summit of the first main ' hog-back ' is a bed of massive sand-
stone, immense blocks of which have fallen down on the inner side of the
ridge, adding much to the wildness, as well as ruggedness, of the scenery.
These rocks are made up almost entirely of an aggregation of small water-
worn pebbles. The layers of deposition are very irregular, inclining at
various angles. This irregularity in the laminae is a marked feature of this
sandstone. It forms a portion of the group which I have called transition,
or No. 1. They are certainly beds of passage from well-marked cretaceous
to the Jurassic, and the lower portion being, almost invariably, a pudding-
stone, they may well mark the boundary between the two great periods. In
many places along our route this group forms lofty perpendicular escarp-
ments, varying from thirty to sixty feet in height, indicating a considerable
thickness of the massive sandstone. For fifteen miles we can pass along
behind this 'hog-back' ridge parallel with the mountains, through a most
beautiful valley with fine grass, and over an excellent natural road. On our
left are the upturned edges of a ridge capped with No. 1, passing down into
the limestone and ashen marly clays of the Jurassic, with a few feet of the
red sandstone at the base, while the valley, which may be 300 to 500 yards
wide, is composed of the worn edges of the loose red beds of the triassic,
and on our right are the variegated sands and sandstones of the formation.
" South of Cache-a-la-Poudre there seems to be but two principal ridges
between the transition group No. 1 and the metamorphic rocks; although at
times each one of these ridges will split up into a number of subordinate
ridges, which soon merge into the main ridge again. In most cases the inner
ridge includes all the red beds proper, and there is a well-defined valley
between it and the metamorphic rocks, but sometimes the sedimentary beds
flank the immediate sides of the metamorphic ridge. Through these ridges
are openings, made by the little streams which issue from the mountain's
side. Sometimes these openings are cut deep through to the water-level,
and, at other times, for only a few feet from the summit. Sometimes there
is a stream of water flowing through them, but most of them are dry during
the summer. These notches in the ridges occur every few hundred yards,
all along the foot of the mountains.
"The cretaceous and tertiary beds generally form several low ridges,
which are not conspicuous. The principal ridge outside, next to the plains,
IS c^omposed of the limestones of No. 3, which is smoothly rounded and cov-
ered with fragments or chips of limestone. Between this and the next
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 71
ridge west there is a beautiful concave valley about one-fourth of a mile
wide. The line between the upper part and the foot of the ridge proper is
most perfectly marked out by the grass. The east slope of this ridge is like
the roof of a house, so steep that but little soil can attach to it, and, in
consequence of this, it can sustain only thin grass and stinted shrubs.
These ridges are sharp or rounded, depending upon the character of the
rocks of which they are composed. Cretaceous formation. No. 3, yields so
readily to atmospheric agfcncies, that the ridges composed of it are usually
low and rounded and paved with chipped fragments of the shell limestone.
The harder sandstones give a sharpness of outline to the ridges, which has
earned for them the appellation of 'hog-backs' by the inhabitants of the
country. In No. 3 I found Ostrca congesta very abundant, and a species of
Jnocerarmis identical with the one occurring in the limestone at South
Boulder, and the same as the one figured by Hall in Fremont's Report,
Plate IV, Fig. 2, and compared with Inoceramus involutus (Sowerby),
page 310. The lower part of No. 3, containing the Inoceramus^ is a gray
marly limestone, which passes up into a yellow chalky shale, which weathers
into a rusty yellow marl that gives wonderful fertility to the soil, while the
dark shales of Nos. 2 and 4, as well as the rusty arenaceous clays of No. 5, are
distinctly revealed at different localities. The light-colored chalky limestones
of No. 3 are more conspicuous, at all times, along the foot-hills of the moun-
tains, even to New Mexico, than any other portion of the cretaceous group.
" The valley of Thompson creek is very fertile, varying from half a mile
to a mile in width, is filled up with settlers, and most of the land is under a
high state of cultivation. The ci-eek itself is one of the pure, swift-flowing
mountain streams, which have their source in the very divide or summit of
the water-shed, and are rendered permanent by the melting of the snows.
All these mountain streams would furnish abundant water-power, most of
them having a fall of thirty feet to the mile.
" There seems to be a decided improvement in the soil as we go south-
ward. The geological formations are the same, but the climate is more
favorable.
"On a terrace on the north side of Big Thompson creek there is a bed
of recent conglomerate, quite perfect, and belonging to the modern drift
period. It is very coarse, and the worn boulders are held together by sesqui-
oxide of iron. I note it here as an example of very recent conglomerate.
There is much fine sand, and the rounded stones are exactly like those
which pave the bottoms of streams. The thickness of this boulder deposit
is considerable, and it seems to underlie the whole valley portion of the
country.
" The cretaceous beds of No. 3 pass down into a yellowish sandstone,
which forms a low ridge on the north side of Big Thompson creek. Two
or three low ridges of cretaceous appear east of this point, but die out in the
prairie. This ridge inclines 15°, then comes a valley about one-fourth of a
mile wide, and a second ridge of rusty reddish fine-grained sandstone, evi-
dently No. l,or the transition group. This ridge inclines 25°. Underlying
the sandstone, which forms a large part of this ridge, we find the ashen-
gray marly and arenaceous clays of the Jurassic, including some thin beds
of sandstone and one layer of limestone four to six feet thick, which has
been much used for lime among the farmers. These beds pass down, with-
out any perceptible break, into the light brick-r«d sandstones which form the
72 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
next two ridges westward. These beds have a dip of 30°. About the
middle of the red beds there is a layer of impure limestone standing nearly
vertical 65°, two to four feet thick, which has also been used somewhat for
lime. The next ridge west has a rather thick bed — ten to fifteen feet — of
very rough impure limestone, looking somewhat like very hard calcareous
tufa. The intermediate beds are loose brick-red sands.
" There is here a somewhat singular dynamic feature — a local anticlinal.
One of the ridges flexes around from an east dip to a west dip, from the fact
that one of the eastern ranges of mountains runs out in the prairie near this
point, forming at the south end originally a sort of semi-quaquaversal, the
erosive action having worn away the central portions. This forms a short
anticlinal of about a mile in length. On the east side of the anticlinal
valley the principal ridges are shown, including nearly all the red beds; and
on the west side, only the upper portions of the red sandstones with the
Jurassic beds and the transition sandstones. The latter rocks form the
nearly vertical wall in which is located a somewhat noted aperture, called the
' Bear's Church.' In the west part of this anticlinal, within twenty feet of
the brick-red sandstones, is a blue, brittle limestone layer about six feet thick,
inclining 78°. This west portion of the anticlinal might be described across
the upturned edges thus, commencing at the bottom :
"1. Rather light brick-red sandstones in three layers — estimated 200
feet.
"2. The red bed passes up into a massive reddish-gray, rather fine sand-
stone — 20 feet.
"3. Then comes a thin layer of fine bluish-brown sandstone — 2 feet; then
the bluish limestone — i feet.
"4. Then about twenty-five feet of ashen clay, with six to ten feet of blue
cherty limestone, with some partings of clay.
"5, About 200 feet of variegated clay.
"6. A bed of quite pure limestone, blue, semi-crystalline — four to eight
feet. The grass prevents definite measurements, and all the beds vary in
thickness in different places, as well as in dip, which is from G0° to 80°.
" 7. This intermediate space is covered over with a loose drab-yellow sand,
doubtless derived from the erosion of the edges of the beds beneath, which
are supposed to be Jurassic. There is one bed of limestone about two feet
thick, similar to that before described. All these limestones appear to con-
tain obscure fragments of organic remains.
"8. A nearly vertical wall of sandstone; dip 60° to 65°. This bed is
formed of massive layers, in all, 150 feet thick or more, and is composed
largely of an aggregate of small water-worn pebbles of all kinds. Most of
thepebbles are of metamorphic origin, but some of them appear to have bqen
derived from unchanged rocks. There are also layers of fine-grained sand-
stone. The prevailing color is a rusty yellow and light gray. Most of the
sandstones in this country are of a rusty yellow color j No. 1, cretaceous.
"9. A broad space, 300 to 400 feet, grassed over. The slope is complete,
but It IS undoubtedly made up of the sands and sandstones at the base of
the cretaceous group.
"10. A fine sandstone passing up into a close, compact flinty rock. This
IS a low ridge, appearing only now and then above the grassy surface. The
slope then continues down to the stream which flows throu-h the synclinal
valley, about a mile wide, and then we come to the gras^ slope' on the
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 73
mountain side, inclining east again. A little below this point, the creek
cuts through the sandstone and- black clays of No. 2, conforming perfectly^
to the wall of sandstone No. 1.
" Between Big and Little Thompson creeks, the ridges are very numer-
ous and bold, and it would seem as if the massive, fine-grained sandstones
predominated, for they cap all the ridges, and the broken masses, often of
large size, are scattered in great profusion everywhere. In one valley the
abrupt side, which was composed of red sandstone, presented an unusually
massive front, and in many places are weathered into the grotesque forms
so well shown southwest of Denver.
" Near the head of Little Thompson the ridges are admirably well shown.
Two beds of sandstone, belonging to the lower cretaceous group, seem to
have broken off in the process of elevation, and so tipped over that the
upper edges are past verticality. The upper cretaceous beds really form but
one principal ridge, although made up of three or four subordinate ones.
The sediments of these beds are so soft and yielding that they have been
easily worn down smoothly or rounded off and grassed over for the most
part. But by looking across it, it is not difficult to detect the black shales
of No. 4, the yellow laminated chalky marl of No. 3 passing into the alter-
nate layers of light-gray limestone and black plastic clays of No. 2. As the
little streams cut through these ridges at right angles, they reveal not only
the different beds, but also the dip very distinctly.
"The Little Thompson begins to show evidences of enormous drift agen-
cies in the thick deposit of gravel, the high table-lands on each side of the
creek, with here and there a butte with the top planed off, and over the
surface is strewn a vast quantity of loose material, which has been washed
down from the mountains. Each one of the little streams has worn its way
through the ridges of upheaval, usually making enormous gorges, but some-
times producing wide open valleys. The valley of St. Vrain creek is one
of these valleys of erosion, with broad table-lands or terraces on each side,
leaving the "Divide" in the form of a continuous smooth bench, extending
far down into the prairie, giving to the surface of the country a beautiful
and almost artificial appearance.
" The banks of the St. Vrain seem to be composed of an upper covering
of yellow marl, which soon passes down into gravel. The soil appears to
derive its fertility from the eroded calcareous sediments of No. 3, but it
rests upon a great thickness of a recent conglomerate, cemented, in part, at
least, with oxide of iron. The greatest width of this valley is over ten
miles, gradually sloping down to the bed of the creek from the north. The
abrupt side is on the south, where a bank, fifty feet high, is cut by the chan-
nel of the stream. This bank increases in height toward the mountains,
but becomes lower further down the stream, eastward. Above this bank,
southward, is a broad level plain about two miles in width, and then a gentle
rise leads to another broad table plain which forms a bench or divide.
" On the north side of St. Vrain creek, near the foot of the mountains,
there is a long ridge of rather rusty yellow and gray sandstone, with a trend
about north 5° east, or nearly north and south. There are also two other
ridges, with a dip varying between 45° and 55° east. The first ridge is
about 100 feet across the upturned edges, and there is then westward a
grassy interval of 300 feet, and then another ridge of about the same thick-
ness, the harder layers projecting above the grassy plain from two to thirty
74 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
feet. It presents the appearance, in the distance, of a high, rugged, irregu-
lar wall, or broken-down fortification, and is about three-fourths of a mile in
length. These are the lower sandstones of the lignite tertiary projecting
above the grassy plain.
"Near the foot-hills of the mountains, about four miles south of St.
Vrain creek, are some high cretaceous benches, extending down from the
base of the mountains. They usually do not extend more than one or two
miles in length before they break off, sometimes abruptly and sometimes
gradually. Not unfrequently a sort of truncated, cone-shaped butte is cut
off from the end of some of the benches. On the summit is a considerable
thickness of a recent conglomerate, which has been cemented so as to form a
yJ,olerabIy firm rock. In this drift some fragments of the red sandstone are
found, but the rocks are mostly granitic. Sometimes there is a valley
ftcooped out between these benches and the foot of the mountains; and
ftgain, they ascend gently up to the base and lap on to the flanks. Some-
times, in the interval between these benches, there is a low intermediate level
ur terrace, about fifty feet above the valley. The higher benches are about
1?00 feet above the bottom. It is to this peculiar configuration of the surface.
Into bench and terrace, that the wonderful beauty of this region is due.
In the distance, southward, can be seen a continuation of the ridges of ter-
tiary sandstone, as they project above the surface far in the plains, five to eight
miles from the base of the mountains. There are some of these sandstone
ridges from 100 to 300 yards apart; the intervals level and completely
grassed over, so that the laminated clays or coal beds are entirely concealed
from view. These ridges continue to appear above the surface, now and then,
nearly to Denver. Where they pass across the valleys of streams, or even
dry branches, openings are made of greater or less depth and width, which
give the irregular outlines to the sandstone ridges.
"Between St. Vrain creek and Left-hand creek there is a broad plateau,
about ten miles wide, which is as level to the eye as a table top. It is cov-
ered over with partially worn boulders. Near the base of the foot-hills,
behind this plateau, there is a most beautiful valley scooped out, about two
miles wide, which must have been the result of erosion in past times, for
there is very little water in it at present.
"Further southward, those long narrow benches extend down into the
prairie from the foot-hills. As we come from the north to the south side of
the plateau, we can look across the valley of Left-hand creek to near Boulder
valley, at least ten miles, dotted over with farm-houses, fenced fields, and
irrigating ditches, upon one of the most pleasant views in the agricultural
districts of Colorado. These plateaus and benches are underlaid by creta-
ceous clays, only here and there passing up into the yellow sandstones of No. 5,
with Inoceramus and BacuUtes. The plateau on the north side of Left-hand
creek comes to the stream very abruptly, and seems to have presented a side
Iront to the later forces which transported the boulder drift from the moun-
tains, the sides being covered thickly with worn rocks of all sizes. This
district IS very aptly called Boulder county; but the culmination of this
boulder drift is to be seen in the valley of Boulder creek.
" y <^™ Left-hand creek to Golden City the flanks of the mountains seem
to be termed of the transition sandstones, or cretaceous'No. 1. with all the
older sedimentary rocks lying against the metamorphic "rocks in such a way
as to render them very obscure and the scenery quite remarkable.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 75
" Indeed, south of St. Vrain creek the change in the appearance of the
belt, formed of the ridges, or ' hog-backs,' is very marked.
"Since leaving St. Vrain creek the tertiary beds, containing the coal,
have been approaching nearer the mountains. North of this point the belt of
cretaceous rocks has been quite wide, varying from two to five miles, but in the
valky of the Boulder the belt becomes quite narrow and forms a part of
the foot-hills themselves, while Nos. 4 and 5 are entirely concealed from view.
" In the Boulder valley the tertiary coal beds are enormously developed.
The Belmont or Marshall's coal and iron mines, on South Boulder creek,
are the most valuable and interesting, and reveal the largest development of
the tertiary coal-bearing strata west of the Mississippi.
" In the autumn of 1867 I had an opportunity of examining these mines,
tinder the intelligent guidance of J. M. Marshall, Esq., one of the owners
of this tract of land, and I wrote out the results of my examinations at that
time in an article in Silliman's Journal, March, 1868. In July, 1869, I
made a second examination of this locality under the same auspices. The
following vertical section of the beds was taken, which does not differ mate-
rially from the one hitherto published :
" 48. Drab clay with iron ore along the top of the ridge.
"47. Sandstone.
" 46. Drab clay and iron ore.
"45. Coal, (No. 11,) no development.
''44. Drab clay.
"43. Sandstone, 15 to 20 feet.
"42. Drab clay and iron ore.
"41. Coal, (No. 10,) no development.
" 40. Yellowish drab clay, 4 feet.
"39. Sandstone, 20 feet.
"38. Drab clay full of the finest quality of iron ore, 15 feet.
"37. Thin layer of sandstone.
"36. Coal, (No. 9,) nearly vertical, where it has been worked, 12 feet.
" 35. Arenaceous clay, 2 feet.
".34. Drab clay, 3 feet.
"33. Sandstone, 5 feet; then a heavy seam of iron ore; then 3 feet of
drab clay; then 5 feet sandstone.
"32. Coal, (No. 8,) 4 feet.
"31. Drab clay.
" 30. Sandstone, 25 to 40 feet.
"29. Drab clay, 6 feet.
"28. Coal, (No. 7,) 6 feet.
"27. Drab clay, 5 feet
26.
( Sandstone, with a seam of clay, 12 to 18 inches, intercalated,
^ 25 feet.
'^^ \ Drab clay, 4 feet.
^ I Coal, (No. 6,) in two seams, 4^^ feet.
^ [ Drab clay, 3 to 4 feet.
"25.
"24.
"23. _
"22. Yellowish, fine-grained sandstone in thin loose layers, with plants,
to 10 feet.
"21.") o' r Drab clay, excellent iron ore. ^
" 20. y "2: ^ Coal, (No. 5,) 7 feet. \ 15 feet.
"19. )5 (Drab clay. )
76 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
"18. Sandstone, dip, 11°. This sandstone has a reddish tinge, and is
less massive than 14.
" 17. Drab clay. ")
"16. Coal, (No. 4.) ,^20 feet, obscure.
"15. Drab clay. )
"14. Sandstone, massive, 60 feet. •
" 13. Drab clay.
"12. Sandstone.
"11. Drab clay.
"10. Coal, (No. 3.)
" 9. Drab clay.
" 8. Sandstone, 25 faet.
" 7. Drab clay.
" 6. Coal, (No. 2,) 8 feet.
" 5. Drab clay.
" 4. Sandstone, about 25 feet.
" 3. Drab, fire clay, 4 feet.
" 2. Coal, (No. 1,) 11 to 14 feet.
" 1. Sandstone.
"In bed No. 23 there are three layers of sandstone, which contain a
great variety of impressions of leaves. Belov? coal bed. No. 6, there is a
bed of drab clay, seven feet thick, with a coal seam at the outcrop, three
feet thick; but the coal appears to give out or pass into clay as the bank is
entered, so that there are ten feet of clay above coal bed. No. 6.
"Much of the iron ore is full of impressions of leaves in fragments,
stems, grass, etc. The ore is mostly concretionary, but sometimes it is so
continuous as to give the idea of a permanent bed. There are several varie-
ties of the ore, of greater or less purity. Above coal bed (5) there is a seam
of iron, with oyster shells, apparently Ostrea suhtrigonalls^ or the same
species found so abundantly near Brown and O'Bryan's coal mine, about
twenty miles southeast of Cheyenne. Nearly a dozen openings have been
made here for the coal.
" A beautiful valley has been scooped out by the South Boulder, leaving
a bench covered with debris between the two Boulder creeks. Before reach-
ing these huge sandstone walls, we pass over a portion of the cretaceous, and
a great thickness of the red beds, inclining at a high angle.
"Immediately south of the South Boulder creek there is a high bench
that extends up close to the base of the mountains, and is covered with drift
and boulders, three miles in width, entirely concealing all the unchanged
rocks. But in the valley of Coal creek seven beds of coal are revealed by
the scooping out of this valley. These beds all incline at a high angle, about
45°, and are not easily worked. The sandstones project up above the loose
material like irregular walls, and the creek itself forms a narrow passage or
gorge through one of these ridges.
"Between the sandstones, and apparently with very little clay either
above or below, is one bed of coal four to six feet thick, which was wrought
for a time, and then abandoned.
"The next finest exhibition of coal in Colorado, to Marshall's mine, is that
of the Murphy mine, on Ralston creek, five miles north of Golden City.
The coal bed is nearly vertical in position, and varies in thickness from four-
teen to eighteen feet, averaging sixteen feet from side to side. There are
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 77
nine feet of remarkably good fire-clay on each side of the coal, and above
and below, or on the west and east sides, are the usual beds of sandstone.
This mine is very near the foot of the mountains, and the belt of sediment-
ary rocks, which are all nearly vertical, is very narrow here — not more thao
half a mile in width — and are mostly concealed by debris.
" Mr. 3Iurphy thinks that there are eleven beds of coal within the dis-
tance of one-fourth of a mile, all nearly or quite vertical in position, of
which the one opened is probably the oldest. The mine is opened on the
north side of the creek, and may doubtless be followed above water-line
several miles to the northward, toward Coal creek.
''On the south side of Ralston creek the same bed has been opened, and
the indications are that it may be followed the same way southward, toward
Golden City. The entire surface is so covered with superficial deposits, and
grassed over, that it is impossible to work out these beds in detail, and the
artificial excavations afford us the most reliable, knowledge. A hundred
yards or more west of the coal bed there is a high ridge running parallel
with the mountain range, capped with lower cretaceous sandstones, No. 1.
'This ridge extends southward, with some interruptions, beyond Golden
City.
"At Golden City the upheaved sedimentary rocks are so swept away
that the metamorphic foot-hills are plainly visible. No rocks older than the
red beds or trias are exposed, and these somewhat obscurely. The red and
gray sandstones lie close on the sides of the metamorphic rocks, inclining
30° and 54°. In the trias there is a bed of silica, or an aggregation of very
fine grains of quartz, which has attracted some attention, and close to it a
layer of bastard limestone or calcareous sandstone. All the beds dip at a
high angle and lie side by side, so that one can walk across the upturned
edges of them all, from the metamorphic to the summit of the tertiary.
Outside of the cretaceous beds there is a small valley of erosion, and then
come the tertiary beds. The strike of the coal strata is very nearly north
and south, and, so far as I could ascertain, the sequence of the beds, from
within, outward, is as follows:
" 1st. Rusty, yellow, soft sandstone. 2d. A bed of fire-clay. 3d. Coal
about eight feet thick. 4th Fire-clay. 5th. Rusty, yellow sandstone.
'•The clay underneath the coal appears to be ten or fifteen feet thick,
with one or two unimportant seams of coal. These beds have been so ele-
vated that the upper edges have passed verticality 5° to 10°. The clay is
much used for fire-brick and potters' ware. In the bed of sandstone, above
the coal, we found several impressions of leaves of deciduous trees, among
them a Platamis^ probably P. haychniL From these we pass across the edges
of a series of beds of sandstone, with intervening strata of iron ore. The
thickness of all the tertiary beds here must be 1,200 to 1,500 feet. Near
the outside is a bed of pudding-stone, and outside or above this, the bed of
potters' clay, which supplies the pottery at Golden City. About midway, in
this series of beds, an entrance has been made, exposing a second bed of coal.
The surface is so grassed over that it is quite impossible to make out the full
series of beds clearly, but the softer strata are well shown by the depressions
between the beds of sandstones.
" The north mesa is two and one-half miles long and about one mile wide.
The south one is four miles long and about a mile wide. This one has an
irregular surface and gradually slopes down eastward until it becomes a low
78 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
ridge of tertiary sandstones and clays. The wall of basalt that surrounds
the top is nearly perpendicular most of the way round, from fifty to one
hundred and fifty feet in height. The lower portion of the basaltic bed, on
the north side of the south mesa, is very vesicular, full of rounded porous
masses somewhat like slag, and rests upon the slightly irregular surface of a
bed of fine fire-clay, which contains traces of vegetable remains. Below the
fire-clay are alternate beds of sandstone and arenaceous clay, inclining
slightly east, and evidently protected from erosion by the hard cap of basalt.
These beds are plainly tertiary lignite, and must be 600 to 800 feet thick.
The lowest bed of vesicular basalt is evidently more recent than the columnar
bed above.
" Green Mountain is a lofty, grass-covered hill, and is entirely composed
of the coal strata, while to the west of it is a nearly vertical ridge of sand-
stone. Just inside of this ridge, or beneath it, is a coal bed which has been
opened by Mr. John A. Roe. The entrance to this mine is the finest I have
seen in Colorado, and is 170 feet in length, through 144 feet of sandstone,
with a slope of 45°. The sides and roof of the entrance are not protected.
The bed of coal is nearly vertical in position at this point, though at some
places, where it is not wrought, it inclines east 70°. There are three seams
of coal, four feet each in thickness, with three and one-half feet of clay
intervening. Below the coal there is a bed of clay five feet thick, and,
above, three and one-half feet arenaceous clay. The coal is close, compact,
and makes an excellent fuel; and Mr. Roe, who is an old Pennsylvania
miner, considers it better than the bituminous coals for all domestic pur-
poses, but, for generating steam and smelting ores, he regards it as inferior.
The ash is white, resembling pine-wood ashes, and the quantity is small.
The coal at Murphy's, on Ralston creek and Golden City, leaves a red ash.
There are no cinders, and, in burning, it gives a bright, clear flame ; and,
although it burns iron, it does not give sufficient heat to weld it. I believe
this to be a continuation, southward, of the Golden City bed. It is also the
lowest of the coal strata in this region; for, in the valley immediately west,
and on the sides of the ridge can be seen the dark clays of the cretaceous
beds. This ridge is very high at this place, and is composed of the sand-
stones of No. 1, and a portion of the red beds or triassic (?). Still further
west are two or three rather low ridges of yellowish-gray and red sandstones,
which cover the gneissoid rocks of the foot-hills of the mountains. By far
the largest ridge here is the one containing the sandstones of No. 1, but it
soon splits up into smaller ridges in its southern extension,
" About twelve miles southwest of Denver, between Turkey and Bear
creeks, are some remarkable soda lakes, which are of unusual interest. They
are the property of Dr. Burdsall, of Denver, in whose company I made as
careful an examination of them as my time would permit. There are four
of these little lakes, and all are located on middle cretaceous rocks. The
principal one lies just east of a low rounded ridge of cretaceous shale, No.
3, and is surrounded, on the other sides, by low ridges of superficial sand
and gravel. A little west of this cretaceous ridge there is a lake, a fourth
of a mile in length, but, on account of the springs flowing into it from the
slopmg sides of the sandstone ridge, No. 1, the water is not strong. The
black shales of No. 2, cretaceous, underlie this lake. The soil, for twenty ;
feet m depth, is fully impregnated with the soda; and, on the surface of one'
of the lakes, is a crust which looks like dirty ice. A shallow ditch, which ■
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 79
Dr. Burdsall has made out into the lake a few feet, has a deposit of sulphate
of soda at the bottom, in a partially crystalline state, one and a half inches
thick Three and a half barrels of the water make one barrel of the sul-
phate of soda, and three pounds of the soil, well leached, makes one pound
of the salts. The salt, by analysis, contains sixty-three per cent of the
soda, and the water about thirty-three per cent. It contains carbonate of
soda, sulphate of soda, chloride of sodium, sulphide of calcium, and a trace
of magnesia. It would seem that these deposits of soda m»st, at no distant
period, play an important part in the industrial operations of Colorado.
These soda salts can be manufactured into bicarbonate of soda; can be used
in refining gold and silver; also, for the manufacture of glass, with silicic
acid. There is an unlimited amount of soda at this locality, and it can be
procured at a mere nominal cost.
"Within a few yards of these lakes, and located in the black, shaly clays
of cretaceous formation No. 2, are considerable quantities of brown iron ore
of superior quality — as good as the best observed in the boulder coal strata.
It occurs in the form of cretations, and occupies a very limited area.
"The city of Denver is located on the tertiary rocks which contain the
coal beds of the west, about ten to fifteen miles from the base of the mount-
ains. The surface is so thickly covered with superficial drift deposits that
the basis rocks are seldom seen ; but we have every reason to suppose that the
same beds of coal, that are exposed by the uplifting of the formations along
the immediate flanks of the mountains, extend eastward into the plains, and,
of course, underlie, at certain depths, the city of Denver.
"As we pass southward, up the valley of the South Platte, we find the
tertiary sandstones exposed occasionally in the banks of the river; and near
the canon a seam of coal has been opened and worked to some extent. The
tertiary beds extend quite close up to the foot-hills of the mountains, leaving
a comparatively narrow space for the exhibition of the older, unchanged
rocks. Still, we may walk across the upturned edges of them all and stady
them with care,
"The valley of the South Platte presents a fine display of the terraces;
and the drift, filled with water-worn rocks, is very thick. The sandstones
of the tertiary formation are also plainly seen, appearing to be nearly hori-
zontal, although not more than ten miles, iu a straight line, from the meta-
morphic rocks. The whole prairie country has been so planed off that it is
finely and gently rolling, and the drainage is excellent. The streams which
flow from the sides of the mountains are fed by perpetual springs, and are,
consequently, persistent and uniform in their amount of water, affording the
best water-power in the country.
"From the soda lakes to the great 'Divide' the cretaceous and tertiary
beds, outside of the No. 1 sandstone ridge, are smoothed down and grassed
over so that they are not conspicuous, though there are exposures enough to
guide the geologist. They are so concealed by superficial gravel and sand
that they present no good sections, either to show the strata or dip. This
regularity of the surface renders the Platte valley, as well as those of its
branches, remarkably fine for farming and grazing, and vast herds of cattle
already cover the grassy hills and plains. The terraces and benches, which
extend down from the foot of the mountains, are well shown.
"Along the Platte river, near the caiion, a coal bed was opened at one
time, but now it is covered with loose material which has fallen from above,
80 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIllECTORY
so that it is entirely concealed. The strata here are nearly vertical Thero
are two beds of coal, in all about five feet thick, separated by about two feet
of clay. The coal is not very good, and has not been used for three years.
It is probably the same bed seen at Golden City, thinning out southward
"Along the Platte, and Plum creek, the streams cut heavy beds of boul-
der gravel^and fiae sand, and it is under this deposit the coal is found. The
valleys of the South Platte and its branches, between Denver and the
mountains, are exceedingly fertile and productive, and, at this time, they are
covered with splendid crops. Nearly or quite all of the available bottom
lands are already taken up by actual settlers, and are under cultivation.
The present season has been unusually favorable for farming throughout the
West.
"The plain country south of Denver comes close up to the foot of the
mountains, so that the belt of upheaved sedimentary rocks grows narrower
and narrower, until, a few miles south of the Platte canon, they cease
entirely for a time. The ridges are very high, ranging from 400 to 600 feet
above the bed of the Platte. To the southward can be seen, rising like a
range of mountains, the high 'Divide' between the waters of the South
Platte and Arkansas rivers, covered quite thickly with pines.
" The first main ridge contains a few layers of No. 2 ; alternations of
clay and sand passing down into the sandstones of No. 1. This ridge is
quite massive, and inclines 43°. In the channel of the South Platte the
distance from the outside of the ridge containing the sandstones of No. 1 to
the metamorphic rocks is not more than half a mile. From this point to
the 'Divide' the ridges are split up and much crowded. The reddish and
variegated sands are worn, by atmospheric agencies, into the most wonderful
and unique forms, equal to the ' Garden of the Gods,' only on a much
smaller scale. Here, also, the red and variegated sandstones jut up against
the metamorphic rocks as if the continuity was unbroken. Indeed, the
apparent conformity is complete.
"The hills of the first range, composed of metamorphic rocks, are curi-
ously rounded and grassed over, and are made up of a reddish, decomposing
granite. But, as we ascend, these peaks or rounded cones become sharper,
the sides more rugged, and the rocks more compact.
"As we go southward the indications of beds of Jurassic age become
more and more feeble. Under the massive sandstones of No. 1 are a series
of yellow and white sands and sandstones passing down into brick-red sands.
Among this series of variegated beds are two thin beds of limestone. One
of these is a very white rock, and on its weathered surface are small masses
of chert, which appear to have the structure of corals. This bed is six or
eight feet thick. Separated by eight or ten feet of sandstones is another
layer of bluish limestone, which is much used for lime. I have never been
able to detect any well-defined organic remains in these beds; but I believe
a portion of them, between the lower cretaceous No. 1 and the true red beds,
are of Jurassic age; and it is even possible that a portion of the red beds I
are of that epoch.
"From the point where the Union Pacific railroad crosses the Laramie
mountains to Colorado City, I have been unable to find any well-marked I
carboniferous or silurian rocks. The red sandstones, which I have been ,
accustomed to regard as triassic, jut up against the metamorphic rocks, or
are the only exposures that meet the eye of the geologist. I do not believe '
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 81
that the carboniferous beds are altogether absent, for limestones of consider-
able thickness, and containing characteristic fossils, occur at Granite canon,
on the Pacific railroad, high up on the margins of the mountains; and also
at Colorado City, about 200 miles to the south. In this long interval, I
have been unable to discover any well-defined carboniferous or silurian
Tocks, yet I am inclined to think that the carboniferous beds, at least, exist
underneath all the other sedimentary rocks, but are not exposed by the
upheaval.
" About five miles south of the Platte canon, the upheaved ridges come
close up to the mountains, and are not worn away, but form the northern side
of the ' Divide,' so that the entire series of unchanged rocks, known in this
region, are exposed in regular continuity. A little further south, we come to
a series of variegated beds of sands and arenaceous clays, nearly horizontal.
Testing on the upturned edges of the older rocks. These beds form the
northern edge of an extensive tertiary basin of comparatively modern date,
either late miocene or pliocene age. From the point of their first appear-
ance, about five miles south of the South Platte cafion to a point about five
miles north of Colorado City, these beds jut up against the foot-hills of the
mountains, inclining at a small angle, never more than five to eight degrees,
and entirely concealing all the older sedimentary rocks. The upheaved
ridge entirely disappears. Far ofi" to the eastward stretches this high ter-
tiary divide, giving rise to a large number of streams, as Cherry creek, Run-
ning Water, Kiowa, Bijou, and other creeks. Through this basin also flows
Monument creek, which has become so celebrated for its unique scenery.
The beds of this formation are of various colors — reddish, yellow, and white
— and of various degrees of texture, from coarse pudding-stones to very
fine-grained sands or sandstones. There is very little lime in the entire
series of bed. There is much ferruginous matter in all the beds, to some
of which it gives a rusty brown color. The valley of Plum creek is scooped
)ut of this basin. The high ridge to the eastward is capped with coarse
sandstones and pudding-stones. Along the immediate sides of the mount-
ains the rocks are mostly coarse pudding-stones, the water-worn pebbles
"varying in size from a grain of quartz to a mass several inches in diameter.
But as we recede from the mountains, eastward, the sediments become finer
and finer, until the coarse pudding-stones disappear. I am of the opinion
that the materials composing the beds of this group have been derived from
the mountain ranges and vicinity. In their general appearance the rocks
of this group resemble the prevailing rocks which cover the country from
Fort Bridger to Weber canon, and also a series of sands and sandstones
along the Gallisteo creek below Santa Fe, which I shall call the Gallisteo
sand group. To this group of modern tertiary deposits, I have given the
provisional name of the Monument Creek group, and they occupy a space of
about forty miles in width from east to west, and fifty miles in length, north
and south.
" Continuing our course southward, we find some curious mesas in the
valley of West Plum creek. We ascended one lofty butte, with a flat table
summit, situated west of the Plum Creek road. The top of this butte is
about 1,000 feet above the road, and is capped with a rather close-grained,
cream-colored rock, which looks quite porphyritic, fifty to one hundred feet
thick, and plainly of igneous origin. Its fractures into slabs, which have a
clinking sound. The beds below are quite variegated, of almost every color
82 ROCKY. MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
an
„..d texture, mostly fine sand, brick red, deep yellow, rusty red, white ash
colored, dull black, etc. The rusty iron layers sometimes form a sort of
limonite, but are composed largely of an aggregate of water-worn pebbles,
cemented with the silicate of iron. There are also thick beds of quartzose
sandstone, or an aggregate of crystals of quartz and feldspar, so compact as
to look like a coarse granite. These large masses afford good illustrations
of the process of weathering by exfoliation.
" The evidence is clear, in a number of localities, that at a late period in
geological history there were dikes or protusions of igneous material, which
flowed over these Monument Creek sandstones in broad sheets or beds; and
these broad, table-top buttes and mesas are the evidences that they are now
left after erosion.
"This modern tertiary basin is very interesting, as the introduction of a
new feature in the geology of this region. The appearance of the country
also undergoes a decided improvement. The great ' Divide ' is covered rather
thickly with pine timber. It is full of excellent springs and fertile valleys,
which give origin to numerous streams. The grass is excellent and abun-
dant, even upon the summits of the table-lands. For a distance often miles
about the sources of Plum creek, the red beds or triassic jut square against
the sides of the metamorphic foot-hills of the mountains. The projecting
summits of the upturned ridges gradually fiide out in importance. They
have also lost their usual regularity, and are split up into an indefinite
number of fragments of ridges, varying in dip from 10° to 45°. Near the
water-divide these ridges gradually close up again toward the foot of the
mountains, and are entirely concealed by the sands and arenaceous clays of
the Monument Creek group.
" In the valley of West Plum creek and its branches, as they emerge
from the mountains, we have a fine exposure of the sedimentary beds. The
coarse, yellowish-gray sandstones and pudding-stones of the Monument Creek
group incline slightly, perhaps 3° to 5°. Then come the sandstones of the
lignite teatiary, inclining 25°. Then west of West Plum creek are some
ridges of cretaceous rocks. The first ridge is made up of a rather impure
limestone, filled with well-defined species of Inoceramus and other shells, of
No. 3, or middle cretaceous. The next ridge west is composed of No. 1,
and the intermediate valley is underlaid with the shales of No. 2. Among
the brick-red ridges is one low ridge, composed almost entirely of gypsum
— an unusual development of this material — to the thickness of thirty or
forty feet.
" There is an extensive series of low ridges of red and gray sandstones
extending up the base of the mountains.
"The high portion of country, which is plainly visible from Denver
when booking southward, and from the Arkansas river looking northward,
would seem to have been protected from erosion by causes which I cannot yet
well explain. The water divide is the long bench which extends down from
the very base of the mountains eastward, and forms the line of separation
between the sources of the streams which flow southward into the Arkansas
on the one side, and into the South Platte on the other. This water-divide
IS well worthy of especial notice, inasmuch as it is composed of the Monu-
ment Creek formation, and juts up against the almost vertical metamorphic
rocks retaining its nearly horizontal position, and perfectly concealing all
the older rocks for at least five miles north of the line of separation.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 83
" The valleys of Plum creek and its branches are quite wide, and are
scooped out of the modern deposits so as to form most beautiful and fertile
lands, while on each side a bench extends down from the mountains like a
lawn. The series of older rocks are exposed by the stripping off of the
newer tertiaries in the valley of Plum creek. The bench on the north side
conceals them, for the most part, close up to the foot of the mountains,
while on the south side they are entirely concealed, until they reappear near
Colorado City.
"The 'Divide' forms a high ridge, with a mesa-like top, stretching far
eastward beyond the horizon, covered with pines. On each side the beds
of whitish-yellow and reddish sandstones appear like fortifications, holding a
nearly horizontal position. Near the foot-hills there is a narrow valley, per-
haps one-fourth of a mile wide, and lying against the side of the mountains,
are remnants left after the erosion. I at first mistook them for the red
triassic beds, but on a close examination I found them to be a coaese aggre-
gate of feldspar and quartz, colored extensively with iron. There are
inclosed in the rock various water-worn pebbles of all sizes and textures.
This rock decomposes readily, especially by the process of exfoliation. The
whole rock is so massive and compact that it might easily be mistaken for a
metamorphic sandstone.
"Just south of the first branch of Monument creek there is a fine exhi-
bition of the erosion of the sandstones. At one locality they lie snug up
against gneissoid rocks, showing the discordant relations perfectly. These
illustrations seem to show plainly that the sediments of this recent tertiary
deposit have all been derived from the disintegration or erosion of the meta-
morphic rocks, and perhaps the older sedimentary beds in the immediate
vicinity.
"In a beautiful little basin near Monument creek, which leads to the
creek, is a lone pillar or column of sandstone, three-cornered, with the strata
perfectly horizontal, about thirty feet high. The sands composing this are
coarse, and of a yellowish or whitish color. It has been, for a long time, a
favorite object for the photographer.
"At one point on Monument creek the red granites, high up on the
mountain side, show the perpendicular lines of cleavage in a marked manner.
Some of the openings are several feet wide. The strike of these lines of
cleavage is about southwest and northeast.
"For a considerable distance, some ten or fifteen miles, along the imme-
diate base of the mountains, on the west side of Monument creek, the long,
smooth, grassy benches slope down toward the creek, sliced, as it were, or
cut by the numerous little branches. These lawn-like slopes or benches
vary in height. Sometimes, on the side of a little branch, where the valley
is deep, there is an intermediate terrace or step to the higher ridge.
" All these valleys seem to be occupied by farmers and stock-raisers.
Almost every available spot is taken up by actual settlers."
In the preceding copious extracts, from Prof. Hayden's journal, we have
endeavored to select matter which would be of interest to the general reader,
as well as to the scientific student; also, material which would show the
existence of coal beds and minerals having commercial value. While we
are aware we have omitted much valuable and interesting information, we
believe we have given sufficient data to prove, beyond doubt, the existence
of coal measures, carrying veins of unusual thickness and extent, capable of
84 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
yielding vast quantities of excellent fuel at small expense. The extracts
will also give a comprehensive exhibit of the physical features of this
region of valley, plain and ridge, and define the prominent geological
characteristics of that portion of the Territory which lies along the base of
the mountains and extends across the adjoining prairies. In selecting data
to define the features of the second division we have made of the Territory
— the foot hills, the main range and its spurs, and South park — we will use,
almost exclusively, material pertaining to the mineral belts. In describing
these, the general characteristics of the region will be fairly explained. We
quote from Prof. Hayden :
"The gold and silver lodes of this Territory, so far as they are observed,
are entirely composed of the gneissic and granite rocks, possibly rocks of
the age of the Laurentian series, of Canada. At any rate, all the gold-
bearing rocks about Central City are most distinctly gneissic, while those
containing silver, at Georgetown, are both gneissic and granitic. The mount-
ains in which the Baker, Brown, Coin, Terrible, and some other rich lodes
are located, is composed mostly of gneissic and reddish feldspathic granite,
while the Leavenworth and McClellan mountains, equally rich in silver, are
composed of banded gneiss, with the lines of bedding or stratification very
distinct.
" There is an important question that suggests itself to one attempting
to study the mines of Colorado, and that is, the cause of the wonderful
parallelism of the lodes, the greater portion of them taking one general
direction or strike, northeast and southwest. We must at once regard the
cause as deep-seated and general; for we find that most of the veins or lodes
are true fissures, and do not diminish in richness as they are sunk deeper
into the earth. All these lodes have more or less clearly defined walls, and
some of them are quite remarkable for their smoothness and regularity. We
assume the position that the filling up of all these lodes or veins with mineral
matter was an event subsequent to any change that may have occurred in
the country rock. Now, if we look carefully at all the azoic rocks in this
region, we shall find, more or less distinctly defined, depending upon the
structure of the rock itself, two planes of cleavage, one of them with a strike
northeast and southwest, and the other southeast and northwest. Beside
these two sets of cleavage planes, there are, in most cases, distinct lines of
bedding. The question arises, what relation do these veins hold to these
lines of cleavage? Is it not possible that they occupy these cleavage open-
ings as lines of greatest weakness?
" I have taken the direction of these two sets of cleavage planes many
times, with a compass, over a large area; and very seldom do they diverge,
to any great extent, from these two directions, northeast and southwest or
southeast and northwest. In some instances the northwest and southeast
plane would flex around so as to strike north and south, and the other one
so as to trend east and west; but this is quite seldom, and never occurs unless
there has been some marked disturbance of the rocks. There are, however,
a few lodes which are called 'east and west lodes,' and some, 'north and
south. A few have a strike northwest and southeast, but are generally very
narrow, and break off from the northeast and southwest lodes, are very rich
tor a time and then 'pinch' out. It would seem, therefore, quite possible
that the northeast and southwest veins took the lines of cleavage in that
direction as lines of greatest weakness, and that the northwest and south-
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 85
east lines cross the other set, and that a portion of the mineral material
might accumulate in that cleavage fissure. I merely throw out this as a
hint, at this time, which I wish to follow out in my future studies. I am
inclined to believe that the problem of the history of the Kocky Mountain
ranges is closely connected with these two great sets of cleavage lines. As
I have before stated, my own observations point to the conclusion that the
general strike of the metamorphic ranges of mountains is northwest and
southeast, and that the eruptive trend northeast and southwest. The dikes,
that sometimes extend long distances across the plains, in all cases trend
northeast and southwest, or occasionally east and west. The purely eruptive
ranges of the northern portion of the San Luis valley seem to be composed
of a series of minor ranges ' en Echelon' with a trend northeast and south-
west. But as soon as this range joins on to a range with a metamorphic or
granitic nucleus, the trend changes around to northwest and southeast.
Many of the ranges have a nucleus of metamorphic rocks, though the cen-
tral and highest portions may be composed of eruptive peaks and ridges. In
this case the igneous material is thrust up in lines of the same direction as
the trend. It becomes, therefore, evident that all the operations of the
eruptive forces were an event subsequent to the elevation of the metamorphic
nucleus. This is shown in hundreds of instances in Southern Colorado and
New Mexico, where the eruptive material is oftentimes forced out over the
metamorphic rocks, concealing them, over large areas.
" All over the mining districts are well marked anticlinal, synclinal, and
what I have called monoclinal valleys. Nearly all the little streams flow, a
portion or all their way, through these monoclinal valleys or rifts. In most
cases the streams pass along these rifts, from source to mouth, but occasion-
ally burst through the upheaved ridges at right angles, and resuming its
course again in some monoclinal opening. There are a few instances of
these streams flowing along anticlinal valleys, and, by any one, these remarks
will be at once understood by studying the myriad little branches of Clear
creek or South Platte, which flow, for long (^stances, through the mining
districts.
"In these valleys are oftentimes accumulated immense deposits of
modern drift. Sometimes there are proofs that these valleys have been
gorged for a time, and a bed of very coarse gravel and boulders will accu-
mulate, hundreds of feet in thickness. Near Georgetown there is a fine
example of this modern drift action.
"It would seem that the valley of that branch of Clear creek, in which
the Brown and Terrible silver lodes are located, was gorged, at one time,
perhaps, with masses of ice, and the fine sand and coarse materials accumu-
lated against the gorge, and, at a subsequent period, the creek wore a new
channel through this material. The upper side of this drift deposit is fine
sand, but the materials grow coarser as we descend, until, at the lower side,
there are immense irregular or partially worn masses of granite. On the
sides of the valley the rocks are often much smoothed and grooved, as if
by floating masses of ice. We assume the position, of which there is most
ample evidence all over the Rocky Mountain region, that, at a comparatively
modern geological period, the temperature was very much lower than at
present, admitting of the accumulation of vast bodies of ice on the summits
of the mountains. The valley of the South Platte, as that stream flows
through the range east of the South park, show, not only these accumula-
86 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
tions of very coarse boulder drift, but, when this drift is stripped off, the
underlying rocks are found smoothed, and, in some instances, scratched, as
if by floating icebergs.
" In regard to the character of the gold and silver mines of Colorado,
much information of practical value has been secured; but my limited time
will not permit me to present it in detail in this preliminary report. It will
be more fully elaborated during the coming winter. I would simply remark
that my observations indicate to me that the silver mines of Georgetown are
very rich, and practically inexhaustible, and that, under the present system
of working them, they are becoming, daily, more and more important. The
amount of labor that is continually expended in opening mines and driving
tunnels is immense, and their future importance, as a source of wealth to the
country, greatly increased. The same remarks will apply to the gold mines
of Gilpin county. There are some remarkably rich lodes, which have
yielded the enterprising miners untold wealth, and some that will continue
to do so. In the majority of cases, where proper management and economy
have been employed, the mines have been a great source of profit to the
miner. It is not necessary to enter into the causes of the wonderful failures
and swindling operations which have brought Colorado into such disrepute
in the past. It is sufficient for me to state my belief that the mining dis-
tricts of Colorado will yet be regarded as among the richest the world has
ever known."
In referring to Berthoud's pass through the main range, from the head
waters of Clear creek to the Middle park. Prof. Hayden writes:
"The range of mountains in which the pass is located is composed of
gneissic rocks — as are all the ranges in the mining districts. The ascent
was very steep on the south side, up to the region of perpetual snow; but
the descent on the north side is quite gradual.
"Great quantities of loose materials, from the basis rocks, are scattered
thickly over the summits, of every variety of the metamorphic class. Most
of the peaks are well rounded, and covered with soil and vegetation. Grass
and flowers grow far up above the limits of arborescent vegetation. As
we ascend, the pines, spruces, and cedars dwindle down in size until they
become recumbent and trail on the ground. Some of the highest peaks are
very sharp and covered with loose rocks, as if only the usual atmospheric
influences had ever affected them. Their sides are often massive escarp-
ments of rocks, down which an infinite quantity of fragments have fallen,
making a vast amount of debris at the base. Of course their rocky sides
are entirely free from vegetation, and the oxide of iron gives them a rusty
reddish appearance. One mountain at the head of Clear creek is called
Ked mountain, from the fact that the rocks have a bright red color in the
distance. The evidences of the outpouring of igneous rocks in this mount-
ain are very marked; indeed, it may be called an eruptive range.
"From the summit of Berthoud's pass, at a height of 11,816 feet, we
can look northward along the line of the main range, which gradually flexes
around to the northwest, while the little streams seem to flow through the
rifts. The general appearance of the western slope of this great range
would mdicate that it is a huge anticlinal, composed of a series of ranges
on each side of a common axis, and then smaller ranges ascend, like steps, to
the central axis. The western side of this ridge slopes gently, while the
eastern side projects over abruptly. This main range also forms a narrow
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 87
dividing line, or 'water-divide,' between the waters of the Atlantic and
Pacific. I stood where the waters of each side were only a few feet apart,
and felt a real joy in passing down the western slope of the mountain by
the side of a pure crystal stream, whose waters were hastening on to the
great Pacific.
''All down the western slope is a great thickness of superficial material,
loose sand, decomposing feldspar, with partially worn rocks of all sizes.
This is due, quite evidently, to local influences, ice and water wearing down
the sides of the mountains and depositing the material adhering to the
masses of ice along the slopes.
"The springs of water are very numerous, and the water seems to collect
in the thick grass and moss-covered earth, forming large bogs. It is also
interesting to watch the growth of a stream from its source, receiving in its
way the waters of myriads of springs, until it becomes a river too formidable
to ford easily. This little stream, which rises in the pass, we followed to the
park, where it is fifty yards wide, and contains an abundance of fine trout."
Concerning the mountains that surround the South park on the north
and northwest, and east, we make the following extract from Prof. Hayden's
report :
"But one of the most conspicuous formations, and greatest in extent and
importance, is the boulder drift. This seems to be mostly confined to the
northern and northwestern portions of the park, where the principal placer
diggings occur. In the valley of the South Platte, especially near Fair
Play, there is a prodigious exhibition of the boulder formation. The rocks
are well rounded by attrition, and apparently have been swept down from
the mountains. Wherever the drift occurs there are long table-lands or
terraces, especially in the vicinity of the little streams, and they seem to be
planed down with such wonderful smoothness that it must have been done
by the combined action of water and ice.
" Along the west and north sides of the park are a large number of lofty
eruptive peaks, which seem to me old volcanic cones. One of the peaks, in
the range west of Fair Play, seems to have a crater-like summit, the rim
broken down on the east side. All around the inside of the remainder of
the rim, the layers of basalt appear like strata, inclining from the opening
in every direction, as if the melted material had been poured out and had
flowed over the sides in regular strata. There are also tremendous furrows
down the sides of others. In the mountains north of the park are huge
depressions in these volcanic ranges, the sides of which are quite red, as if
they had been in active operation at a comparatively modern period. I am,
therefore, inclined to believe that the magnificent range of mountains on the
west side of the Arkansas river, extending far northward, is one series of
old volcanic cones. As we leave the plains and ascend the mountains at the
northeast side of the park, we pass immediately from the older tertiary beds,
covered thickly with drift, to the metamorphic rocks, mingled with outbursts
of eruptive rock. Toward the summit, there was a great series of gneissic
beds, of all varieties and textures. All these mountains east of the park
have a gneissic and granitic nucleus. As we descend the valley of a small
branch of the North Fork of the South Platte from the Kenosha House, we
pass down a monoclinal rift. On the west side is the slope, covered with a
thick growth of pine and spruce, while on the left side are the projecting
edges of the massive red feldspathic granites, with two sets of cleavage
88 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
lines- the vertical with a strike northeast and southwest, and the other
inclining at an angle of 30°; the strike, southeast and northwest; while the
bedding inclines with the hills. The bedding is so regular and massive that
it looks like massive sandstone stratification. The Platte, with all its little
branches, flows through these rifts or intervals between the ridges; one side
of the stream, a plain gradual slope; the other, extremely abrupt, with the
rugged ends of the gneissic or granitic rocks projecting out in a most remark-
able manner. After passing along massive granite walls about five miles, we
go through four or five miles of singularly banded gneiss, and then massive
granite again, of every degree of texture, from a fine, close feldspathic rock,
with no mica, to a coarse aggregate of quartz and feldspar and fine particles
of mica. One of the interesting features of these mountains is the fact that
all the little streams find their way through these monoclinal valleys. We
see also the main axis of the range, composed of massive granite, with a
distinct bedding, which is sometimes inclined, and sometimes horizontal,
with the banded gneiss inclining from each side. It seems quite clear that
each one of these great ranges of mountains is a grand anticlinal, with a
massive granite axis, with the gneissic granites inclining from each side in
the form of ridges, among which the various streams find their way. The
trend of these ranges is in the most cases northwest and southeast, or nearly
so. Some of the gneissic rocks in the Platte valley look like laminated
sandstone, with a regular dip 18*^ to 30°. The tops of the highest ranges
are, in some cases, covered very thickly with loose fragments of rocks.
"Passing down from the junction to Denver, we have some of the finest
examples of jointage structure in the gneissic rocks that I have ever seen;
there are two lines of fracture — one with a direction northeast and south-
west, the other northwest and southeast, with the lines of bedding — making
a fine study for the geologist. Some of the beds are thus broken into
nearly square blocks, and others in diamond-shaped masses.
" On reaching the base of the mountains, the usual ridges of sedimentary
rocks are passed over — red beds, Jurassic, cretaceous, and tertiary. The
tertiary beds commence within a mile of the foot of the mountains, soon
becoming horizontal in their position, and before reaching Denver, they are
scarcely seen on account of the superficial deposit of drift and alluvial which
covers them."
Of the South park and its geological features. Prof Hayden says:
"The South park is completely surrounded with gigantic ranges of
mountains, and inside of them the sedimentary rocks, when exposed, seem
to dip toward the centre of the park. Indeed, I should regard the South
park as one immense quaquaversal.
"Around the salt works is a group of laminated sandstones, mostly
brown and gray, overlaid by a great thickness of light gray gypsiferous marl
with a bed of crystallized gypsum four feet thick. The valley in which the
salt springs are located is covered with an efiiorescence of what is usually
called, in this country, 'alkali.' On the east side of the creek, which runs
past the salt works, is a high isolated basaltic butte. About a fourth of a
mile east there is a hill composed of the gypsiferous marls, on the surface of
which are numerous deposits of calcareous tufa, as if a number of springs
had issued from it in former times.
_ " These salt works are quite extensive and costly. The springs are two
m number, but the- brine is not abundant or strong. Salt has been manu-
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 89
factured here in considerable quantities, and a large portion of Colorado has
been supplied with it. These springs are very interesting, in a geological
point of view, though their origin is somewhat obscure to me, yet I believe
they belong to the triassic or saliferous sandstones.
" About four miles north of the salt works is a high ridge, inclining
northwest twenty degrees, composed of a series of variegated sandstones and
shales 300 to 400 feet thick. These are, without doubt, the group which I
have usually called triassic, or red beds. Still further north we find them
inclining southeast, with several thin beds of blue, very hard, cherty lime-
stone, which is characteristic of the red beds. Near Fair Play the brick-
red beds are well shown. It seems, therefore, certain that the principal
sedimentary rocks which are found in the South park are triassic.
'' About ten miles south of Fair Play several thin beds of blue, close, brit-
tle limestone appear, intercalated among the red sandstones, dipping a little
east of south, forming a sort of synclinal; that is, the dip is nearly opposite
that of the beds near the salt works. These limestones, with the red sand-
stones, may possibly be of permian age. No fossils could be detected in
them. The sandstone is, in some cases, micaceous, or composed of mica and
small crystals of quartz; in others, a fine aggregate of worn pebbles, a sort
of fine pudding-stone. These variegated or red beds continue close up to the
eruptive ranges for five miles. North and wesfe from Fair Play we come to
a high ridge of sandstone with a reddish tinge and slightly calcareous, the
dip being north of east, or nearly east, and the ridge forming a marked line
running nearly north or south, through the middle of the park, from the
mountains nearly to the salt works. Just east of this ridge is another ridge
of quartzose sandstone or cretaceous. Then comes a very large thickness of
the laminated cretaceous clays, covering the country for about fifteen miles.
Near McLaughlin's, twelve miles northeast of Fair Play, the lignite tertiary
sandstones and clays overlie the cretaceous and jut up against the mountain
side. About a mile north of the ranch Mr. McLaughlin has opened a coal
mine. Hje sunk a shaft eighteen or twenty feet through a bed six to ten
feet of very impure coal; some portions of it can be used for fuel. The dip
of the coal bed is forty-five degrees northeast from the base of the mount-
ains, which are not more than a quarter of a mile distant. Mr. McLaughlin
informed me that he had found 'oak leaves' in the shale above the coal.
These beds occupy the entire north end of the park, and no older rocks are
seen between them and the eruptive foot-hills of the mountains. It seems,
therefore, that the source of the elevating forces that upheaved these sedi-
mentary formations was in the range of mountains that form the western
rim of the park, and, so far as I could ascertain, there are no true ridges of
upheaval on the eastern side. Exposures of eruptive rocks are seen every-
where all over the park.
"Thefe are several localities where these rocks are thrust up through the
cretaceous and tertiary beds, and in the middle and southern portions of the
park are quite lofty isolated buttes and mountains of eruptive rocks."
Concerning the mountains south of the park, and the passage through
these by way of Trout Creek pass, we extract the following, from the same
report :
" As we ascend Trout Creek pass, we find granites of all textures, from
very fine compact feldspathic to a coarse aggregate of crystals. There are
also many intrusions of trap. All the rocks seem to weather in the same
90 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
way, by exfoliation, as if it were the desire of nature to round off all sharp
points or corners. I think it may be said that Trout Creek valley is a true
anticlinal.
" Sometime before reaching the top of the pass, we find on the sides of
the valley low foot-hills of carboniferous limestone, remnants of a once con-
tinuous bed. As we emerge into a little park, just before reaching South
park, we pass through a sort of canon, with walls of carboniferous limestone
on each side, inclining northeast at an angle of eighteen to twenty degrees.
This limestone rests directly upon the massive granite, and the bedding of
the granite inclines in the same direction and at the same angle. The lime-
stones are from 300 to 400 feet in thickness. There is one bed, about thirty
feet thick, of rusty quartzose sandstone about the middle of the limestone.
The lower beds are very hard, bluish, and cherty; but the upper ones are
yellow, purer, and contain imperfect fragments of fossils.
" There are here also several examples of the outbursts of basalt, assum-
ing very marked castellated forms.
" As we pass into this small park, which is about five or six miles long
and two wide, we have, on the north side of the road, a bed of very thinly
laminated black shale, passing up into a great thickness of laminated sand-
etones, all inclining northeast fifteen degrees, and on the summits of the
mountains, 400 to 600 feet directly above, are beds of limestone and quartzite
inclining in the same direction. The black shales have been prospected for
coal. Toward the upper end of this little park is a series of beds, some of them
with a reddish tinge, composed of alternate thin beds of shale, sandstone,
pudding-stone, and arenaceous limestones, which belong underneath the
black shales before mentioned.
"It seems to me that these beds are Jurassic, or much newer than the
carboniferous, but, in the upheaval, have fallen down below the carboniferous
limestones, which have been lifted far up in the ridge beyond. As we ascend
the ridge which forms the southwestern rim of the South park, we meet
with what appears to be the same black shales and sandstones on the summit,
which we saw some hundreds of feet lower, in the small park."
The following extract will sufficiently describe that portion of the second
division south of South park :
"The Kio Grande del Norte river rises in the park of the Animas, flows
east about 150 miles to the San Luis valley, then bends abruptly south
through the middle of the San Luis valley. The northern portion of the
valley is called the San Louis park proper. This northern portion, above
the bow of the Rio Grande, is about sixty miles in length, and has an average
width of fifteen to twenty miles. About the centre of this park is a singu-
lar depression, about ten miles wide and thirty miles long; it looks like one
vast thicket of 'grease wood,' Sarcobatus vermicular is, and other chenopia-
ceous shrubs. Into it flow some twelve or fifteen good sized streams, and
yet there is no known outlet, neither is there any large body of water visible.
It seems to be one vast swamp or bog, with a few small lakes, one of which
IS said to be three miles in length. Although entirely disconnected from
any other water system, the little streams are full of trout.
"On the south side of the Sierra Blanca the foot-hills are composed of
the hght-colored marls, and on the west side of the mountain, and near
Mosca pass, are the sand hills, which are composed of the loose materials of
this formation.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 91
" Here also is another conspicuous remnant of it left after erosion. On
the west side, just below Sawatch creek, and in the Rincon, are some rather
high hills of this marl at the base of the mountains. The materials thrown
out of the excavations of prairie dogs show that the valley is entirely under-
laid with it. I am convinced, therefore, that this fresh-water deposit occu-
pied the whole of this valley from Poncho pass to the mouth of Gallisteo
creek, and how much further southward I cannot tell; but there is evidence
that it extends, either continuously or with interruptions, through New
Mexico, and even further.
" From Fort Garland to the Poncho pass no sedimentary rocks of older
date than the marls are seen along the margins of the mountains on either
side until we reach Kerber's ranch, about ten miles below the summit of the
pass. On the west side of the valley, on the foot-hills, is a large thickness
of carboniferous limestones, lifted high on the summits, and dipping east at
an angle of fifty degrees. This limestone continues only a few miles, and is
another of the remnants that are left of the sedimentary rocks among the
mountains.
"Commencing at Fort Garland, the range of mountains that wall in the
San Luis park on the east side is grand in its proportions. From the Sierra
Blanca nearly to the Poncho pass it appears to be purely eruptive, and to be
composed of a series of ranges or axes trending nearly northeast and south-
west. At the northern end the eruptive portion ceases, and the lower meta-
morphic mountains flex around so as to trend northwest and southeast. On
the west side, the mountains are far less lofty, but they seem to form a
nucleus of metamorphic rocks, with a vast number of dikes, from which
the basalt has poured over nearly the entire region. All the foot-hills south
of the Sawatch are composed of eruptive rocks, but north of that point the
gneissie rocks are seen. This range of mountains seems to be made up of
a number of smaller ranges, with a general trend northwest and southeast.
It would seem that where a range of mountains is purely eruptive, the
minor ranges trend northeast and southwest, but that where there is a meta-
morphic nucleus the eruptive materials follow the strike of the minor
ranges.
"At the summit of the pass the hills are grass-covered and the road
excellent, but the nucleus of the mountains on the east side is metamorphic,
with dikes of eruptive rocks everywhere. The little stream, the valley of
which we descend, flows through a monoclinal rift or interval between the
ridges of metamorphic rocks.
"About two miles from the summit this little branch is joined by the
main fork, and the whole continues to flow through a monoclinal valley until
it empties into the South Arkansas. The main Poncho creek rises in
one of the loftiest peaks in Colorado. This peak has a large depression on
the east side, which may once have formed a portion of the crater. At the
junction of the forks commences one of the most remarkable examples, of
what appear to be igneous rocks, I have ever seen in the West. On the east
side of the creek we have the steep slopes, and on the west the projecting
edges. "We have here 800 to 1,000 feet of eruptive rocks with a sombre
hue, but with a stratification as perfect as in any sedimentary rocks. It is
composed of layers never over one to four inches in thickness, inclining south
of west forty-five degrees. Some of the layers would make good flagging
stones.
92 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
"A little further down we come to the gneissic rocks, inclining northwest
fifty to sixty degrees. Some of the black-banded gneiss has zigzag seams
of feldspar and quartz running through them.
"About three miles before reaching the Arkansas there is a curious
junction of the massive red feldspathic granites, inclining northeast seventy
degrees, with the dark -banded gneiss, inclining northwest twenty -five
decrees. At the point of synclinal junction all is confusion; the two kinds
of rocks are crushed together, and yet there is no break in the mountain.
As we emerge from the pass to the South Arkansas we have the finest exhi-
bition of banded gneiss I have seen in the West. The rocks are of various
colors — red, yellow, white, and black — and the layers are quite thin, and
their appearance is very picturesque. The general course of the Poncho
creek, from its source in the snow peak to the Arkansas, is north.
"The gneiss is very varied in its texture; some of it contains garnets;
some of it is very close feldspathic, micaceous, or whitish quartzose.
"On the east side of Poncho creek, about 150 feet above the Arkansas,
on the side of the mountain, is a hot spring surrounded with a large tufaceous
deposit. There is also, near the foot of the pass, on the side of the mountain,
an extensive deposit of the yellowish marl, filled with water-worn boulders.
" Between the South and North Arkansas there are some remarkable
terraces or benches, extending the whole breadth of the valley, from moun-
tain to mountain. On the north side of the South Arkansas are three
terraces, beside the rounded hills near the base of the mountains, which rise
iia succession like steps.
"The high eruptive range which seems to cross the South Arkansas, and
to pass up along the west side of the North Arkansas, appears to be com-
posed of a series of enormous dikes, in a chain, merging into each other,
and having a strike about northeast and southwest. The general trend of
the aggregate is about north and south.
" On the west side of the Arkansas valley the recent tertiary beds run
up to and overlap the margins of the mountains. They are composed mostly
of fine sands, arenaceous clays, and pudding-stones, cream-colored arenace-
ous clays and rusty yellow marls, fine sand predominating. These beds
weather into peculiar architectural forms, somewhat like the 'Bad Lands'
of Dakota Indeed, they are very nearly the same as the Santa Fe marls,
and were, doubtless, cotemporaneous, and dip at the same angle, three to
five degrees, a little west of north. The tops of the hills have all been
planed down, as if smoothed with a roller. I have called this group the
Arkansas marls. They occupy the entire valley of the Arkansas. This
valley is about forty miles in length, and, on an average, about five to ten
miles in width. It might properly be called a park, for it is completely
surrounded by mountains. On the west side is one of the grandest ranges
of eruptive mountains on the continent. On the east side is also a lofty
range with a metamorphic nucleus, but intersected everywhere with basaltic
dikes. The first and lowest range runs parallel with it, and is sometimes
cut through by it. It seems to be composed of massive feldspathic granite
of igneous origin.
"Near the mill, on a little branch just below the mouth of Trout creek,
^ there is a high rounded peak, with a crater-formed depression at the summit,
which is grassed over, while all around the rim there is a fringe of pines. I
am inclined to think it is an old volcano.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 93
"At the point where Chalk creek emerges from the eruptive range the
sides of the canon present a singuhir white chalky appearance. This seems
to be due to the decomposition of the eruptive rocks, which appear to be
true dolerite.
" The drift evidences in this valley are very conspicuous. All along the
Arkansas, and in the valleys of the little branches, are very thick beds of
water-worn boulders of all sizes. The last of the eroding forces seems to
have come from the range of mountains on the west side.
"The granite on the east side of the river possesses, in a wonderful
degree, the tendency to disintegrate by exfoliation. There is a kind of
bedding which breaks the exfoliation or confines it. In these massive
granites there are two sorts of cleavage besides the lines of bedding; one of
these is usually vertical, and has a strike northeast and southwest, and the
other southeast and northwest, inclining twenty to forty degrees.
"On the summit of the mountains is a series of beds, one above the
other, of what appears to be basalt, and these beds, with the granites beneath
them, incline each way from Trout Creek valley northeast and southwest,
forming what appears to be an anticlinal."
The scientific world is every season interesting itself more and more in
the study of the Colorado system of parks, and of the stupendous and, as
yet, scarcely explored volcanic structures beyond the snowy sierra. These
form the prominent features in our third division of Colorado. Active vol-
canoes are, for the most part, on the edges of continents, near the ocean
borders, and in the islands of the sea, while those which have been long
extinct, and whose seething funnels of eruption were long since closed, are
met with in great numbers in the more central regions of continents.
Of the extinct variety there are very many examples in western Colo-
rado, some of which are of immense size. The lava rocks are not usually
metalliferous, although they abound in mineral glass (obsidan). They
have passed through a complete process of liquefaction and distillation, and
are consequently brittle, porous, friable, and readily break down into fine
powder, and eventually go to form a very fertile soil. In some instances
the liquid ebullition has overflowed from fissures hundreds of miles in length.
Vast areas have been submerged, so that they now resemble lakes of black
solidified sea water. Pedrigal is the technical name applied to this forma-
tion, while the rocks are termed malpais. This formation is found contin-
uously over a considerable portion of New Mexico, Colorado, Utah and
Idaho. It lies west of the main range or snowy sierra, and is parallel with
its crest.
The Rio del Norte, from its source in the snowy San Juan mountains,
400 miles, to Albuquerque, uninterruptedly cleaves a pedrigal of wonderful
dimensions. Green river penetrates, longitudinally, the same pedrigal, pro-
longed to the northward. Its eastern shore is washed by the Great Salt
Lake. It stretches away to Snake river, whose chasm, for more than 300
miles, cleaves a naked plain of lava, which, in places, expands to a width of
100 miles.
This is, therefore, the site of what was once the most stupenduous vol-
canic region of which the world has any record, but where the fires of
nature have ceased to belch their wrath !
The direction of the mountains, and the drainage, is from north to south.
The waters sweep away to the Pacific, through the Great Colorado of the
94 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
West J to the Atlantic, through the Platte, the Arkansas, and the Rio del
Norte'. The average width of this longitudinal trough is about 400 miles;
the Rocky cordillera form its continuous eastern wall; the Sierras, Wasatch
and Sierra Mimbres form its western wall.
To give a more detailed description of the remarkable formations that
characterize this division of the Territory we again quote from Prof. Hay-
den's journal. Referring to the Middle park, he writes:
" About ten miles above the hot springs Grand river flows through an
enormous gorge, cut through a high ridge of basalt, which seems to be an
intrusive bed, for above and below the sedimentary rocks are well shown,
but partially changed. Underneath are the cretaceous shales of Nos. 4 and
5, and above are the lignite tertiary beds. These beds all dip west 23°.
" These eruptive rocks are very rough, as if they had been poured out
without much pressure. Much of it is a very coarse conglomerate, the
inclosed masses appearing to be the same kind as the paste; that is, origi-
nally, of igneous origin. Some of the inclosed rocks are very compact, close,
and all were more or less worn before being inclosed. This rock is a true
dolorite. I did not see any inclosed masses .that I could call unchanged.
This basalt extends a great distance, continuing a nearly uniform thickness,
and inclining: in the same direction with the cretaceous beds below and the
tertiary beds above.
" On both sides of Grand river, but especially on the east and northeast
sides, extending up nearly to the foot of Long's Peak, are quite large expos-
ures of the recent tertiary beds. They are nearly horizontal, and have
much the appearance, in color, of the Fort Bridger beds, of which Church
buttes is an example. These beds are composed, for the most part, of fine
sand and marl, but there are a few small rounded boulders scattered through
it. Below the gorge, on the north side of Grand river, these outflows of
basalt have formed some well-defined mesas; at least three beds ascending,
like steps from the river. Below the gorge the river fiows through what
seems to be a rift of basalt, that is, on the north side. The basalt lies in
horizontal beds, but on the south side is the sloping side of a basaltic ridge.
The dip is nearly northwest, though the trend of this basaltic ridge is by no
means regular. One portion of it has a strike northwest and southeast, and
another north and south. The tertiary rocks reach a great thickness, and
are elevated high up on the top of the basaltic ridge, 800 to 1,000 feet above
the river. They are mostly formed of fine sandstone and pudding-stone.
These fine sandstones contain some well-marked impressions of deciduous
leaves, among which are good specimens of Platanus haydeni. On the
north side of Grand river, in some localities, the tertiary beds are elevated
BO high, on many of the eruptive mountains, that they are covered with per-
petual snow. These eruptive beds are certainly among the most remarkable
examples of the overflow of igneous matter that I have ever seen in the West.
" At one locality I saw a remarkable intrusive layer between the red or
variegated beds, which are supposed to be triassic and the Jurassic. It is a
very compact, heavy syenite, and forms a ridge of upheaval, and dips in the
same direction and at the same angle with the unchanged beds above and
below.
" About four miles below the first basaltic canon on Grand river, appar-
ently, the same ridge comes close to the river again. On the north side
there is a high basaltic uplift, which shows well-marked lines of stratification,.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 95
as if the melted material had been poured out in thin regular sheets or
layers. The dip is about north. In many places the entire mass is made
up of a coarse conglomerate, and has the peculiar steel color which seems to
characterize modern eruptive rocks. The dip of this basaltic ridge, at this
point, is 36°. On the opposite side of the river there is an isolated portion
cut ofiF from the main ridge, with a dip about south or southeast 24°.
"Continuing our way west, down Grand river, we pass over a series of
upturned ridges of sedimentary rocks, inclining in the same direction with
the basaltic ridge, trending parallel with it, composed of cretaceous and older
tertiary beds. Looking eastward from the Grand canon, below the hot
springs, this remarkable basaltic ridge seems to form a semicircle, with a
general dip about north
" Immediately below the hot springs the Grand canon commences, and
the river cuts its way through an upheaved ridge of massive feldspathic
granite for three miles, between walls from 1,000 to 1,500 feet high. The
south side is somewhat sloping, and covered thickly with pines, while the
north side is extremely rugged, the immense projecting masses of granite
forbidding any vegetation to gain a foothold. It would seem that the river
had worn its way through a sort of rift in the granite, but at the upper end
it has cut through the uplifted sedimentary ridges nearly at right angles.
In some places the north side is gashed out in a wonderfully picturesque
manner, so that isolated columns and peaks are left standing, while all the
intermediate portions have been worn away. This granite ridge will aver-
age, perhaps, five miles in width, and extends an unknown distance across
the park northeast and southwest, and it is from the southeast side that the
ridges of upheaval above described incline.
"The granite ridge seems to form a sort of abrupt anticlinal. On the
southeast side the rocks are all bare or coverec* with a superficial deposit of
recent tertiary marls. None of the older unchanged rocks are seen on this
side, but the modern sands and sandstones are exposed in a horizontal posi-
tion in the channel of the river.
"The hot springs are located on the right bank of Grand river, at the
juncture of the sedimentary rocks with the granites. Just east of the
springs is a high hill, Mt. Bross, 1,000 to 1,200 hundred feet above Grand
river, which seems to be composed mostly of the older tertiary strata, alter-
nate yellow and gray sandstones, and laminated arenaceous shaly clays. The
whole is so grassed over that it is difficult to take a section. The beds
incline east of north at a small angle. I regard the beds as of the age of
the coal formations of the West, older tertiary. I found excellent impres-
sions of deciduous leaves, among which are those of the genus Magnolia.
Just opposite the springs the left bank of the river shows a perfect section
of all the layers from the cretaceous to the Jurassic. The bank is not more
than ten feet thick above the water, and yet it shows that the river itself
rolls over the upturned edges of all these beds.
"The section, in descending order, is as follows:
" 1. Tertiary strata, forming the greater part of the hill known as Mount
Bross.
" 2. Gray laminated sandstones, passing down into arenaceous clays with.
BacuUtes ovatus, etc.
" 3. Black clays of No. 4. These are of great thickness and every variety
of texture. As shown in a cut bank of the river, it is a yellow arenaceous
96 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
clay with layers of sandstone, in which the impressions of deciduous leaves were
observed. These layers project up a distance, along the bank , of seventy paces.
"4. Dark plastic clay with cone in cone, seams of impure clay, iron ore.
Then comes an interval in which no layers could be seen, sufficient to include
No. 3 — 250 paces.
"5. Dark, steel-black laminated slate, with numerous fish scales; dip,
twenty-seven degrees. This slate passes down into alternate layers of rusty
sandstone and shaly clay.
"In the upper bed of sandstone and shaly clay are obscure vegetable
impressions, leaves, stems, nuts, etc., evidently deciduous. In the upper bed
of sandstones are two or three thin seams of carbonaceous shale, and the
intervening layers of sandstone are almost made up of bits of vegetable
matter. Toward the lower it becomes a hard mud rock, passing down into
rusty, yellow sandstone with all sorts of mud markings. Then comes a bed
of bluish plastic clay with sulphur and oxide of iron; dip, thirty-three
degrees. Then rusty, fine-grained gray sandstone, passing down into a very
close massive pudding-stone, composed of very smooth nicely-rounded peb-
bles, surrounded with silica. This stone would be most excellent for build-
ing material, and is susceptible of a very fine polish. A fracture passes
directly through the pebbles, the paste being harder, if anything, than the
inclosed pebbles; dip, thirty-one degrees. This is a very thick bed, and is a
portion of No. 1, cretaceous, or a sort of transition bed between the creta-
ceous and the Jurassic.
"The red and variegated beds lie fairly upon the gneissic granites, and
although they are shown very obscurely here, yet I think they must exist,
inasmuch as they are so well revealed not more than fifteen miles east of
this point, so that I have no doubt they are lost beneath the mass of super-
incumbent material. I think the light-colored clays, lying underneath the
bed of chalky clay, are Jurassic. There is a bed of fine gritty clay under-
neath the pudding-stone, which would make excellent hones.
"In the intercalated sandstones above the pudding-stones are plants just
like those observed in No. 1 at Sioux City, on the Missouri river, and the
composition of the strata is the same ; there is a Sah'x, a coniferous plant,
the cones of a pine, etc.
"I have given this detailed description of thp cretaceous rocks to show
the exceeding variableness of their texture, and also to call the attention of
scientific men, who may hereafter visit this interesting locality, which will
soon become celebrated, to a section of the rock through which the waters
of the spring must pass in reaching the surface. Now, in whatever rocks
these springs may originate, the water must pass a long distance through
the almost vertical strata of the cretaceous period, in the sediments of which
are found, in other localities, nearly all, and perhaps a-11, the mineral constit-
uents found in these springs. The deposits around these springs are very
extensive. No analysis has yet been made, but large masses of gypsum and
native sulphur can be taken out, at any time, from the sides of the large
basin-like depression into which the water flows. They are properly ' Hot
Sulphur Springs,' varying in temperature from eighty to one hundred and
twelve degrees.
"About fifteen miles west of the springs is the valley of the Trouble-
some creek, a small branch of the Grand river, flowing from the basaltic
mountains on the northern side of the park.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 97
" I visited the region under the guidance of Mr. Sumner, an old resident
of the park. The surface of the country, along our road, was strewn with
eruptive rocks. We saw several localities where the basaltic rocks pro-
truded, and one place in Corral creek, about eight miles west of Grand river,
where the little stream has cut a deep channel through the red granites.
The older tertiary beds appear from time to time.
"Troublesome canon, at the head of the creek bearing this name, is
entirely basaltic, and the rugged walls, not only of the main stream, but also
of the little branches, form a most picturesque view.
'•Below the carton the valley of Troublesome creek, and also that of
Grand river near the junction, is occupied by belts of modern tertiary sands
and marls, like those observed at the entrance of the park by Berthoud's
pass. Where the little stream cuts the terraces, horizontal strata of whitish
and flesh-colored sands and marls are exposed. I looked in vain for fossils,
and found only specimens of silicified wood. There are cold sulphur springs
in this valley-. All through the park the benches or terraces are conspicu-
ous in the vicinity of streams, as at the bat^e of mountain ranges. In the
park through which Frazer's creek flows these benches or terraces are most
beautifully carved out from the modern marls.
"I regret that my visit to the Middle park was so short that I could not
explore the entire area with care, for few districts in the West can afford
more material of geological interest, and an entire season could be spent
studying its geology and geography with great profit.
"The agricultural resources of the Middle park are, as yet, unknown.
No attempt has been made to cultivate any portion of it. Grass and grazing
are excellent, and the soil good, and, if the climate will permit, all kinds of
garden vegetables could be raised in abundance, and some varieties of the
cereals. Timber is abundant, both for lumber and fuel.
"In summing up the geology of the Middle park, we find that all the
sedimentary rocks known in this country are found there. I did not see any
beds that I could define as carboniferous; but the triassic, Jurassic, creta-
ceous, and tertiary are well developed. I have no doubt as to the existence
of true carboniferous limestones in the Middle park.
"The tertiary deposits of this region may be divided into two groups,
viz., the lignite or older tertiary, and the modern pliocene marls and sands
which seem common to the parks and mountain valleys The former con-
form perfectly to the older beds, while the latter seldom incline more than
three to five degrees, and do not conform to the older rocks. The marl
' group is undoubtedly contemporaneous with the Arkansas and Santa Fe marls
"The geological structure of the Middle park is more varied, compli-
I cated, and instructive than that of any other of the parks."
From Prof. Denton's article on the "Geology and Geological History of
Colorado," published in 0. J. Hollister's valuable work on the " Mines of Col-
orado," we quote the following concerning the fossil insects discovered in the
Territory :
" Specimens of fossil insects from No. 3 (Petroleum shales, varying from
a cream color to black) were submitted to Mr. Samuel H. Scudder, secre-
tary of the Boston Society of Natural History, who has made fossil insects
a special study. The following is his description of them:
"'This is the fifth discovery of fossil insects in this country, if some
tracks and an apparent larva in the triassic rocks of the Connecticut valley
98 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
be correctly referred to insects; but it is the first time that they have been
found in the tertiary beds of America. These were obtained by Prof. Den-
ton on a trip of exploration west of the Rocky Mountain range, not far from
the junction of White and Green rivers in Colorado.
'"The specimens were brought from two localities, called, by Prof. Den-
ton, Fossil canon and Chagrin valley, lying about sixty miles apart. The
rocks in both cases are the same; above are the beds of brown sandstone,
passing occasionally into conglomerate, and thin beds of bluish and cream-
colored shale alternating with the sandstones, all dipping to the west at an
angle of about 20°. These contain fossil wood of deciduous trees, fragments
of large bones, most of which are solid, and turtles, some of which are two
feet in length, and perfect. Prof. Denton considers this sandstone as prob-
ably of miocene age. Beneath these rocks are beds of petroleum shale, a
thousand feet in thickness, varying in color from a light cream to inky
blackness; these shales are filled with innumerable leaves of deciduous trees,
and throughout their extent the remains of insects abound. Tfce specimens
brought home are about fifty in number, many of the little slabs containing
several diiferent species of insects upon them. The number of species
amounts to about fifty also, although a number of specimens are so fragment-
ary or imperfectly preserved as to be difficult and often impossible of iden-
tification.
" ' The most abundant forms are Diptera, and they comprise indeed two-
thirds of the whole number, either in the larval or perfect state; the others
are mostly very minute Coleoptera, and besides these are several Homoptera,
an ant belonging to the genus Myrmica, a night-flying moth, and a larva
apparently allied to the slug-caterpillars or Limacodes.
"'The perfect insects among the Diptera are mostly small species of
Mycetophilidge, a family whose larvae live mostly in fungoid vegetation, and
Tipulidge, whose larvae generally live in stagnant water; there are, besides,
some forms not yet determined, of which some are apparently Muscidae, a
family to which the common house-fly belongs. The larvae of Diptera
belong to the Muscidae and to another family, the latter of which live, during
this stage, in water only — none of the larvae, however, belong to the species
of which the perfect insects are represented on these stones. The Homop-
tera belong to genera allied to Issus, Gypena, Delphax, and some of the
Tettigonidae.
" ' A comparison of the specimens from the two localities shows some
differences. They both have Mycetophilidaj, but Fossil canon has a propor-
tionately greater abundance and variety of them. Fossil canon has other
flies also in greater number, though there are some in both; but Myrmica, the
very minute Diptera, and the minute Coleoptera are restricted to Fossil
carion. On the other hand all the larvae, both the Diptera and that which
appears to be a Limacodes, were brought only from Chagrin valley.
" ' Of course the number of specimens is too small to say that the faunae
of these two localities are distinct, although the same species has not been
found to occur in both, and the strata being 1,000 feet in thickness, there is
opportunity for some difference in geological age, for new collections may
entirely reverse the present apparent distinction. Neither is it sufficient to
base any satisfactory, that is at all precise, conclusions concerning their age.
Enough is before us, however, to enable us to assert, with some confidence,
that they cannot be older than the tertiaries. They do not agree in the
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 99
aggregation of species with any of the insect beds of Europe, or with the
insects of the amber fauna; and, since they have been found in Europe in
considerable numbers, only at rather wide intervals in the geological record,
we should need more facts than are at our command, by the known remains
of fossil insects, to establish any synchronism of deposits between Europe
and America. Much more satisfactory results could probably be reached by
a comparison of the remains of leaves, etc. Anything more than a very
general statement is therefore, at present, quite out of the question.'"
Of the region in which the shales that contain these fossil insects are
found, and of the shales. Prof. Denton writes:
"The country in which these are found is a most remarkable one. From
the summit of a high ridge on the east, a tract of country containing 500
or 600 square miles is distinctly visible. Over the whole surface is rock,
bare rock, cut into ravines, canons, gorges and valleys, leaving in magnifi-
cent relief, terrace upon terrace, pyramid beyond pyramid, rising to mountain
heights, amphitheatres that would hold a million spectators, walls, pillars,
towers, castles everywhere. It looks like some ruined city of the gods,
blasted, bare, desolate, but grand ■ beyond a mortal's telling.' Originally an
elevated country, composed of a number of soft beds of sandstone, of varying
thickness and softness, underlaid by immense beds of shale, it has been worn
down and cut out by rills, creeks and streams, leaving this strange, weird
country to be the wonder of all generations.
"In this region is found a deposit of petroleum coal, scarcely to be dis-
tinguished in any way from the Albertite of New Brunswick. In lustre,
fracture, and smell, it appears to be identical, and would yield as much oil
as this famous oil-producing coal. It is in a perpendicular vein, three feet
wide, and was traced from the bottom of Fossil canon, near Curtis Grove,
White river, to the summit level of the country, a thousand feet in height,
and for nearly five miles in length, diminishing in width towards the ends
of the vein. Its description and analysis is thus given by Dr, Hayes, of
Boston :
"'Black, with high lustre like Albertite, which it resembles physically;
specific gravity 1.055 to 1.075. Electric on friction; breaks easily, and con-
tains .33 of one per cent, moisture. It affords 39.67 per cent, of soluble
bitumen, when treated with coal naptha, and after combustion of all its parts
1.20 per cent, of ash remains; 100 parts distilled afforded bituminous
matter, 77.67; carbon or coke, 20.80; ash left, 1.20; moisture, .33; total,
100.00. It expands to five or six time its volume, and leaves a porous cake,
which burns easily.'
"The vein is in an enormous bed of sandstone. No. 2; and its walls are
smooth. Beneath the sandstone are the petroleum shales No. 3, one bed of
whjch, varying from ten to twenty feet in thickness, resembles cannelite, and
would, it is thought, yield from fifty to sixty gallons of oil to the ton. This
bed was traced for twenty-five miles in one direction, and was seen at points
sixty miles apart in another, and it no doubt extends over the entire distance.
If so, in that single bed are twenty million million barrels of oil, or a thousand
times as much as America has produced since petroleum was discovered in
Pennsylvania. There are few beds of coal that can compare with this in the
amount of bituminous matter which it contains, or in the great value that it
possesses as an article of fuel. The tertiary beds of Colorado are as rich
in fuel and gas-making material as any coal region with which we are
100 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
acquainted; though it is more than probable that the petroleum now in the
shales and petroleum coals came originally from the oil-bearing coral beds
of some much older formations."
In compiling this description of the geological features of the country,
we have occupied more space than the character of our work demands, and
still we have not done justice to the subject, nor to the author's from whom
we quote so fully, but trust we have given sufficient interesting information
to satisfy the general reader, and convey to the student of geology some idea
of the vast geological field within the limits of Colorado, as yet but partially
explored. In conclusion, we append Prof Frazer's list of metals and minerals :
" Iron pyrites, (FeSj.) — Almost universal in the mines. Occurs in cubes
from the size of a pin's head to those of an inch on the sides. Also, in
pentagonal dodecahedra.
" Copper pyrites, (CujS+FeSj.) — Is only second to iron pyrites in the
frequency of its occurrence.*
" Zinc-blende, (ZnS.) — Is also very common, especially in the Georgetown
region. Fine specimens were obtained from the Baker lode. West Argen-
tine, and the Griffith lode, close by Georgetown. Also, from Gilbert's
(formerly Commonwealth Mining Company) lode, near Nevada City.
" Galena, (PbS.) — Usually argentiferous. In all the lodes of the vicinity
of Georgetown. Contains from one hundred to six hundred ounces silver
per ton.f
^'■Brittle silver ore, (StephaniteSAgS-f-SbsSj.) — Occurs in the silver
mines of Georgetown. (Terrible and Brown lodes.)
'' Fahlerz, [(4RS-f4Cu2S)QS3. R=Fe, Cu, Zn, and often some Ag and
Hg=Q=Sb and As.] — Also in the region around Georgetown. The form-
ulae here given are from Naumann's Mineralogy. I am not aware that Hg
has been discovered in this ore ; but, as it coincides, in its physical properties,
with the ordinary fahlerz, I append the above formula.
'■'■Light ruby silver (Proustite), (SAgS.AsSs); Dark ruby silver (^Pyrar-
gyrite), (SAgS.SbSs.) — Handsome specimens of these two ores were observed
intermixed with the galena from the Brown lode. Also, from Snake river.
" Silver glance, (AgS.) — From the Georgetown neighborhood. Equator
and Terrible lodes. A ton of galena, containing much of this ore, was
recently sold, by a gentleman of Central City, to Prof. Hill, for $1,900 cash,
and the latter realized a profit of $700 from it.
" Copper glance, (CujS.) — Bergen district, near Idaho City, Pleasant
View, etc.
* " Both iron and copper pyrites of this region contain gold in indefinitely fine
particles. The former is, in fact, the gold ore. Where these minerals have been
exposed to the action of the weather, they have been decomposed and the gold set
free. The value of the gold in a ton varies from nothing to S500, and even more. I
have observed small octahedra of gold on the crystal faces of iron pyrites from the
Pleasant View mine near Central City.
t" It is somewhat remarkable that these veins of galena generally ' pinch up,' or
grow smaller, as the depth increases. I talce this general statement from the best
authority I could obtain on the subject. A gentleman, well acquainted with the
Georgetown ores, informed me that all attempts hitherto to produce lead for the market
had failed from the deficiency in the supply of galena. This statement, which I give
for what it is worth, appears all the more remarkable when one compares it with the
icxperience of miners in Freilberg, Przibram, and Clausthal.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 101
''Malachite, (CuO.COz); Blue vitriol, (CuO.SOs+SHO); Green vitriol,
(CuO.SOj+THO.) — Occur in various mines from the decomposition of the
pyrites.
'■'■ PyromoryMte, (PbO-POj+PbCl.) — Associated with the galena of
various mines near the surface.
" Specular iron ore, (FeO.FejOs.) — Cache-a-la-Poudre, St. Vrain, etc.
''Red and broicn hematite, (FcjOs ^^^ FejOg-f-HO.) — Of frequent
occurrence in the vicinity of the coal.
" Coal. — Beds of coal occur all along the flanks of the mountains; but
in the property of Mr. Marshall are perhaps the best exposures. Here are
no less than nine outcrops. They make their appearance at various points
along the range as far down as Santa Fe, and are of unknown extent.
Albertine coal, or solidified petroleum, is stated by Prof. Denton to occur on
White river, in the western part of the Territory.
" Gold — Occurs in the neighborhood of Central City, in the German
lode, and many others. In the Placer diggings. Some beautiful crystals
attached to cubes of iron pyrites in the ore from the Pleasant View
mine.
" Silver. — In many mines as wire or hair silver. Brown and United States
Coin lodes.
" Cerussite, (PbO.COj.) — Pleasant View mine. — In small translucent
crystals occurring in geodes.
" Anglesite, (PbO.SOj.)— Freedland lode. Trail run.
"Horn silver, (AgCl.) — Georgetown, Snake river.
" Emholite, (AgBr-|-AgCl.) — Peru district. Snake river.
" Titanic iron ore, {x TijOa-f-y FejOj.) — Quartz Hill, and Russell gulch,
near Central City.
"Micaceous iron ore, (FejOs- ) — Elk creek. In fine crystals, like
mica.
" Spathic iron ore, (FeO.COs-) — Eureka and Griffith lodes, etc.
" Smithsonite, (ZnO.COj-) — Running lode. Black Hawk, etc.
" Salt, (NaCl.) — From Salt springs in South park, twenty miles south-
east of Fair Play. Can produce 40,000 pounds per diem.
" By characteristic minerals, I mean to include all those that have no
commercial value. They furnish proof, in most cases, of the presence of
other minerals, of rocks, or of formations. Of the characteristic minerals,
among the most common are —
" Hydrated oxide of iron, (brown ochre, yellow ochre, bog iron ore, etc.)
— Occurs with the coal beds at South Boulder, Golden City, etc., etc., and
is frequently regarded as a surface indication of the presence of gold, silver,
and the precious ores generally.
" Quartz, (SiOj.) — The most important of the characteristic minerals.
Very widely diifused. Forms the gangue of nearly all the veins of the
precious metals in Colorado. As the gangue rock it crops out on the hill
sides in white or colored streaks, usually intersecting the planes of stratifica-
tion of the rocks. Uncrystallized, presenting sharp and jagged edges, and
a broken conchoidal uneven fracture, sometimes weathered by the disinte-
gration of the minerals it contained. Pebbles and partially rounded crystals
of quartz are abundant in the prairies east of the Rocky Mountains, whence
they have been carried down, and may be observed hundreds of miles east
of the easternmost 'hog-back.' Indeed, the abundance of these -small
102 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
pebbles of quartz, and of the red feldspar, is very remarkable, occurring, as
they do, in great quantities on the summits of the little prairie hillocks, at
such an immense distance from their place of origin.
" 1. Smoky quartz and black quartz. — Elk creek.
" 2. Rock or Berg crystal. — Near ' Dirtywoman's Ranch,' and in geodes
in various mines.
" 3. Rose quartz. — Quartz Hill.
« 4. Agate (Moss agate, etc.) — Middle park, Arkansas River park, etc.
" 5. Amethyst.— Nevada City, Mill City, etc.
" 6. Aventurine. — Elk creek.
" 7. Heliotrope (bloodstone). — Middle park.
" 9. Carnelian. — South park and Middle park.
"10. Chalcedony. — South park, Trout Creek pass, etc.
"11. Chrysoprase. — Middle park.
"12. Jasper. — South and Middle parks.
" 13. Onyx. — Middle park. Grand river, etc.
" 14 Sardonyx. — Golden City, Mount Vernon.
" Hornstone, flint, milk quartz, prase, cat's-eye, fire-stone, and other dif-
ferent varieties of silicic acid, are met with in the above localities, but have
no especial interest.
^'Opal, (hydrated silicic acid.) — Idaho City, Golden City, South Boul-
der, etc.
^^ Feldspar. — Very abundant in the mountains, and, as boulders and
pebbles, throughout the Territory. Associated with quartz iu the granites,
gneisses, and porphyries of the gold-bearing mountains.
"a. Orthoclase (Al2O3.3SiO3-f-KO.SiO3) is largely the predominant
feldspar in the rocks in Colorado.
"al. Pegmatolite. — Flesh-red, orthoclastic, abundant as pebbles, scat-
tered, with quartz, over the prairies for hundreds of miles. Forms red
granites and gneisses with quartz and mica, and red syenites with hornblende.
Very common.
" a 2. Adularia. — Forms a white porphyry when associated with quartz
in many places along Fall river, and in many veins. Not common.
" a 3. Sanidin. — Fine crystals of hopper-shaped sanidin from Quartz Hill.
"6. Plagioclastic feldspars.
"b 1. Albite, (AlA-aSiOs-t-NaO.SiOg.)— Trout Creek pass.
" b 2. Oligoclase. — Arkansas River park, etc.
"6 3. Labrador, (Al203.Si03-(-CaO.Si03.) — In the basalts and diabases
of the region about the Spanish peaks, Trinidad, the upper part of San
Luis park, and the Puntia pass.
^^ Hornblende^ (silicate of lime, magnesia, and suboxide of iron.) — In the
syenite in and around Idaho.
" Diorite. — Near Empire City, and elsewhere.
" Garnet. — South park, twenty miles from Fair Play. Breckinridge.
" Mica, (K0.Si03+ Al^Oa.SiOa-hRO.SiOs.)
"1. Potash mica. — Light colored. Frequent in the gneisses of Gilpin
and other counties.
" 2. Magnesian mica. — Dark colored. Frequent in the gneisses of South
park. Trout Creek pass, etc.
''Leucite, (Al203Si03-|-KO.Si03.)— In trachytic lava between the
Cuchara and the Apishpa.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 103
" Chlorite. — In diabase, near Trinidad.
^^ Amphihole, (augite.) — In basalts, near Trinidad, and diabase, near
Apishpa.
''Epidote, (CaO-SiOs+CAljOs+FeAjSiOs.)— Trail creek.
" Tourmaline. — Guy Hill.
" Calc spar, (CaO.Coa.) — Very widely distributed. Idabo, etc.
" Gi/psuni, (CaO.SOs-l-HO.) — Interstratified in the new red sandstone
or triassic beds. South park, etc. Also, accompanying the coal in thin
scales.
" Anhydrite. — Elk creek.
" Salt. (NaCl.) — In solution in many springs. As deposit on rocks in
their vicinity.
" Heavy spar, (BaO.SOg.) — As gangue rock in many mines. Baker
lode, etc.
" Meteoric iron. — Found near Bear creek.
''Beryl, (AlA-SSiOa+GlASSiOs.)— Bear creek.
"■ Brucite, (MgO.HO.) — James creek.
''Idocrase, [(CaO+MgO)Si03.]— Bear creek."
CLIMATOLOGY.
Although climate exerts an unlimited influence over every living thing,
in both the animal and vegetble kingdoms, and is the constant subject of
familiar and learned comment, and notwithstanding the fact that remarks on
that inexhaustible theme — the weather — fill up all awkward gaps in every-
day conversation, and become the forlorn (conversational) hope of timid
lovers and bashful young gentlemen, still climatology, as a positive science
(if it can be classed as such), is but little understood, and has not received,
from scientists, the careful investigation and thorough discussion its import-
ance demands. This is owing, in a great measure, to the absence of a com-
plete concerted system of obtaining and recording meteorological observations,
including every district of t-he country, and extending through any regular
series of years. It is true, the Smithsonian Institute has established stations
throughout the country, where suitable apparatus is placed in the hands of
competent persons, and a great amount of valuable data collected, which
reaches the public through documents published by that institution; and
that, recently, the War Department has also established numerous stations
within the limits of the States and Territories, where observations are taken
regularly, and trans mtted to Washington by telegraph; but, as yet, the
student of the climatology of Colorado receives but little assistance from
these, and the compiler of this Chapter has not had access to any connected
record of meteorological observations made within the borders of the Terri-
tory. In the absence of these, our remarKS can only be a series of obser-
vations — the result of personal investigation and careful inquiry.
All of Colorado is included in the boundaries of the temperate zone, and,
notwithstanding the great elevation of the mountain regions, no degree of
cold exists which will give any portion a right to be classed otherwise than
104 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
as temperate. According to Lorin Blodgett's maps, illustrating the mean
distribution of heat, the plains portion of Colorado is embraced in the same
isothermal lines that include New York and Philadelphia, on the Atlantic
coast; Columbus and Cincinnati, in Ohio; Indianapolis, in Indiana; Spring-
field, in Illinois; Leavenworth, Kansas; and Council Bluffs, Iowa. The
foot-hills are embraced by the same lines that take in Boston and New Bed-
ford, Massachusetts; New Haven, Connecticut; Albany and Buffalo, New
York; Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania; Detroit, Michigan; Chicago, Illinois;
Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin; St. Paul, Minnesota; Omaha,
Nebraska; and Fort Benton, on the upper Missouri. The main range and
its western slope, and the greater portion of the Territory west of the
mountains — that of Halifax, Nova Scotia; Frederickton, New Brunswick;
Portland and Bangor, Maine; Hanover, New Hampshire; Burlington, Ver-
mont; Montreal and Quebec, Canada; the upper Lake Superior region; and
the country surrounding the head waters of the Red River of the North.
Admitting the correctness of these lines, the periodical occurrence of
heat and cold, in Colorado, is not characterized with the extremes peculiar
to any of the locations above named. Although the altitude -of a great
portion of the Territory makes the degree of cold greater than in the same
latitudes at lower elevations, still the degree of cold indicated is not in pro-
portion to the elevation, basing the calculation upon rules the result of
established observations in European countries According to European
theory, every 380 feet of elevation makes a change in climate equal to a
degree of latitude. If this held good in Colorado, the summit of the main
range would have a temperature equal to Greenland, and the plains that of
the coast of Labrador, in British America; while the established fact is,
the average temperature of the plains is about the same as that of the
same latitudes on the Atlantic coast, and that of the mountain regions
the same as exists on the Atlantic sea-board in a latitude but three or
four degrees further north. It is not the province of this work to
theorize upon the causes of this phenomenon, but to give publicity to
the important fact which so largely influences the prosperity of the
Territory. That the elevation has something to do with generating a latent
heat in the soil and rocks, which destroys humidity, is apparent; and per-
haps the peculiar geological formations of the country may also aid in pro-
ducing the aridity peculiar to the plains and mountains of these regions.
But, whatever may be the causes, the results are a less average fall of rain
and a greater degree of dryness in the soil than in the same latitude on the
prairies, the Appalachian range of mountains, or on the Atlantic sea-board.
According to Blodgett, the average rain-fall of the plains is about eighteen
and that of the mountains about thirty inches. One of the effects of this is
the necessity of irrigation, on the plains, before the soil will produce vegeta-
tion to any great extent. This absence of moisture does not, however, affect
the growth of grasses indigenous to the country. These abound on the
plains and mountain slopes, and are peculiarly abundant and nutritious in
the valleys.
Its influence upon the atmosphere is remarkable. This is entirely free
from humidity, and wonderfully clear, health-inspiring, and exhilarating. It
destroys miasma of every kind, and forbids the existence of noxious gases
and offensive exhalations. In the mountain region the avera<.re deposit of
moisture is sufficient for all agricultural purposes; but on the plains, as before
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 105
stated, artificial means must be resorted to before the rich soil will produce
largely. The numerous streams, supplied by the snows and rains of the
mountains, furnish an ample supply of water for this purpose, and the for-
mation of the country makes the use of this water practical, with trifling
expense.
The greatest falls of snow on the plains, in the latitude of Denver, usually
occur in the autumn months, commencing in October. This never exceeds
ten or twelve inches, and never remains on the ground for any length of
time — not often longer than twenty-four hours. In the southern part of
the plains the fall of snow is trifling, and the winters very mild. Cattle find
abundance of food, from native grasses, at all seasons, and do not require
shelter.
In the mountains the fall of snow commences in September, and the
greatest amount falls in September, October and April. Although on and
near the summit of the range the fall is considerable, and there are places
where it remains the year round, still it does not usually remain on the
ground for any length of time. It is not unusual for the greater portion of
the mountains to be nearly bare at all seasons.
On the plains the heavy falls of rain are in the spring and early sum-
mer, scarcely any falling in autumn or winter. There is no "rainy season"
in any portion of the Territory. In the mountains rains are quite frequent
in the summer and autumn, but long continued rain storms are unknown.
The greatest extremes of cold and the most severe storms occur in
November and December, in all parts of Colorado. The balance of the
season is comparatively mild, except at great elevations, where considerable
cold is experienced at all seasons. Heavy wind storms are common in the
mountains, and quite frequent in all parts of the Territory; but tornadoes
are unknown.
The absence of clouds, the year round, is remarkable. The clear, beau-
tiful blue sky, and glorious sunshine, are seldom shut out by mists or fogs,
except when rain or snow is falling. Cloudy weather is not peculiar to
Colorado.
The average temperature of the plains regions of Colorado is from 50° to
55°; that of the foot-hills from 45° to 50°; and that of the mountains from
40° to 45°. The mercury rarely indicates below zero, on the plains, even in
the coldest weather, and seldom exceeds 80° in the warmest. Damp, chilly
days, or hot, sultry nights, are unknown in Colorado. On the summit of
the mountain ranges, and on the higher peaks, the cold is often extreme;
but in the mountain valleys and foot-hills it rarely reaches a point below
zero, and in midwinter we have seen delightful weather not more than five
miles from the region of perpetual snows.
The results of these climatological conditions are, an extremely healthful
and invigorating atmosphere, peculiarly beautiful and enjoyable, well adapted
to all agricultural pursuits, stock-raising, wool-growing, and all other out
door avocations.
COLORADO AS A RESORT FOR INVALIDS.
So much has been said of the wonderful eff"ects of a residence in Colo-
rado in restoring invalids to health, and, in particular, of her wide-spread
celebrity in the relief and cure of tubercular and pulmonary afiections, that
a brief consideration of this important subject will not be out of place.
106 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Probably it is not amiss to assert that at least one-third of the present
population of Colorado consists of reconstructed invalids. They have come
here from all sections of America, and some, even, from the old world— all
in ea-'-er search of the fabled Fountain. Some came with gnawing and
intractable dyspepsia; some with asthma or bronchitis; others had com-
menced "bleeding at the lungs," or were confirmed and hopeless victims of
old-fashioned "consumption." Many, it must be said, came too late to be
benfited, and only to be buried in the land of strangers, or expressed back
to their friends, in metallic caskets. On the other hand, thousands, whose
cases were considered hopeless, have here found permanent and gratifying
relief This is especially true of asthmatics. For this class of patients the
atmosphere of Colorado is almost a certain panacea.
Having given this subject especial investigation, and closely questioned
the best medical authorities of the locality, we are led to conclude that, in
cases of asthma, although the above statements are not exaggerated, the
cure is chiefly negative— an absence of the irritating and inciting causes —
rather than any miraculous healing qualities inherent in atmosphere or
climate. Without, however, entering upon a study of the metaphysics of
physiology, it is enough to know that, unless the convalescent returns again
to his old haunts and habits, and to the original causes of his disease, this
dreadfully distressing malady is here perfectly and permanently cured.
One of the most eminent medical authorities, in treating of asthma,
strongly urges a change of residence, as a last resort, and says:
"There are no fixed laws with respect to the best climate or situation for
asthmatics; each case has its own law, which is only to be ascertained by
experience. The principle to be acted on is that there is a locality in which
each martyr to this complaint will sufier less, and, perhaps, be entirely free
from it; and the plan should be, to make repeated trials until the desired
spot is found."
We can improve upon this advice by assuring its learned author (Prof
Austin Flint, of Bellvue Medical College, New York), who is himself a
great sufferer from asthma, that "the desired spot" has certainly been
found. The disease, in its most aggravated and long-seated forms, is relieved
in so nearly every instance, by a residence here, that the exceptions are not
to be taken into account; and almost perfect immunity from it is enjoyed by
every case remaining in the dry, salubrious atmosphere and perpetual sun-
shine of Colorado.
Consumptives, who come here before the ravages of the disease have been
already too long unchecked, almost certainly recover; while others, who could,
elsewhere, only exist in constant suffering and helplessness, are here enabled
to pass the remainder of their days in comparative comfort, frequently regain-
ing a considerable degree of vigor.
Dyspeptics also recover their lost DOwers of assimilation, and, by proper
care, become robust, and competent at table.
Those afflicted with bronchitis and affections of the throat, many of
whom have tried Minnesota, the West Indies, California and sea voyages, in
vain, become sound and well by a sojourn in Colorado.
An analysis of the elements combining to produce such apparently
remarkable results would lead to the consideration of the following :
1. Altitude. — As will be seen from our chapter on physical geography,
Colorado, as a whole, occupies the topographic centre, and is, in fact as well
I
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 107
as figuratively, the summit of the continent. Taken in detail, its different
localities present a great variety of elevation, ranging from 4,000 feet, in
the Arkansas valley, to 10,000 feet, in the mountain parks, above the sea-level.
Considerable difference of opinion exists, among medical men, as to
what altitude, other things being equal, is most favorable for chronic invalids
of the classes mentioned. This, undoubtedly, depends very much on the
chiiracter of the disease, the age, temperament, and habits of the patient,
and the particular stage of advancement of the malady, whatever it may be.
In some cases of asthma the higher the elevation the more speedy and per-
fect the relief. Occasionally inveterate cases fail of substantial aid until
they ascend to some of the mountain towns, a residence in the valley — as
everything outside the mountains proper is here termed — only ameliorating
the severity of the paroxysms. On the other hand, cases of advanced pul-
monary disease at the altitude of Georgetown (nearly 9,000 feet) would
prove speedily fatal; while at Pueblo, on the Arkansas (4,500 feet), the
patient would steadily improve, or, at least, live in comparative comfort.
Mere altitude is not, however, as a rule, the primary thing to be con-
sidered, although its influence is more or less marked in every case. . The
physiological effects of a residence in high altitudes are to hurry respiration,
and, consequently, accelerate the pulse; to compel an augmentation of the
breathing capacity rapidly and at once, in order to provide the requisite
quantity of oxygen from the rarified air inspired. Hence the danger to
those far advanced with tubercular consumption, and to such as are subject
to pulmonary hemorrhage. For the same reason, patients suffering from
certain forms of heart disease are more injured than benefited by a removal
to localities much more elevated than the one to which they have been
accustomed.
For almost every form of disease, barring the exceptions mentioned
above, the increased activity imposed on the respiratory organs, by residence
in high altitudes, is a direct and constant benefit. Nothing is better for a
dyspeptic, or a sufferer from hepatic disorder, indigestion, or general torpor,
than to make him breathe. Increase his respirations from sixteen to twenty-
four per minute, and you give him a new experience. His blood circulates
with equally increased rapidity, and is much more perfectly aerated; his
appetite is increased; digestion and assimilation promptly responding to the
increased demand and the increased action of the diaphragm, his biliousness
oozes out through the pores of his skin, and lo, he becomes a new being!
One of the curses of civilized life is the consummate stinginess with
which most people breathe. Here, whether in the "valley" or on the
mountain heights — for even the bed of the Platte, at Denver, is a lineal mile
higher, above the sea-level, than New York or Philadelphia — one must
breathe, both more fully and more rapidly, or die of suffocation. The result
is a permanent increase of the breathing capacity. The chest of a well-
proportioned man, by actual measurement, has been known to expand three
inches in as many weeks, after arriving here; and the appetite keeps pace
with the respiration.
The effect is a general awakening of all the vital powers, that often seems
lik§ very magic, so that, no matter what was the original complaint, the
patient is suddenly and substantially improved.
2. Climate. — This varies considerably with the altitude, as well as the
varying topography of the country. Almost any climate desired can be
108 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
found within the limits of Colorado. In the southern portion, and in some
of the sheltered valleys, there are days in midsummer when, for a few hours,
the mercury ranges above 100° Fahr.; while, at the same moment, there are
heights in the mountains where one would be comfortable in the fur wrap-
pings of a Laplander.
At Trinidad, near the southern borders, in the valleys of the Huerfano
and Apishapa, and at Pueblo, on the Arkansas, the season opens considerably
earlier than at Denver and other points north of the " Divide." Even at
Colorado City, on the Fontaine qui Bouille, the springs are noticeably earlier
than they are but a short distance further north and across the "Divide."
The southern slope of the latter, extending from its crest to the Arkansas — a
distance of eighty miles — is so situated as to catch the perpendicular rays
of the sun, and gather spring-like warmth from them, while yet the snows
lie, unmelted, on the northern slope. Also, more snow falls, in winter, on
the latter than on the former.
Colorado City is situated at about the middle, and Pueblo at the base of
the southern slope ; while Denver is midway, and St. Vrain at the foot of the
northern.
Located in that happy mean of latitude (37° to 41° north), between the
extreme winters of the Northern States and the enervating heats and
humidity of the Southern, Colorado enjoys, as a whole, the most equable
and desirable climate of any portion of the western hemisphere. Its win-
ters are mild, comparatively little snow falling, except on the mountain
ranges; and its summers are remarkably cool and bracing. There is about
a month of each season during which, in the valley country, the mercury, at
midday, ranges as high as at New Orleans; but one needs to keep on hand,
in July, about the same clothing as is required at Christmas; and there are
not half a dozen nights in the season when a pair of blankets to sleep under
are, in any degree, uncomfortable. In the mountain towns gloves and over-
coats are very convenient, even in dog-days • and flannel underclothing should
everywhere be worn the year round.
3. Alimentation. — By which is meant, not merely the kind and quantity
of food taken, but its essential qualities and its utilization in the animal
economy.
Bread, the leading staple in all dietaries, is of uniformly better quality,
in Colorado, than in any other portion of the western country. Not that
citizens of Colorado are, naturally or by practice, better bread-makers than
those of other sections, but they have much better material to use, and
could not, if they would, make an inferior article. The best specimens of
wheat raised in Colorado are not excelled by that of any country in the
world, while the quality of that cereal is more uniformly good than that of
any section of the United States, not even excepting California. It is
always plump, white, thin-skinned, and wholly free from every species of
hereditary taint, smut, rust, blight, etc. The famous "blue stem" of the
Genesee valley, the "white winter" of Michigan, and the "Southern white"
of Tennessee and Kentucky are, none of them, equal to the commonest
varieties grown from the fresh, airy and wholesome soil of these mountain
regions. P
Without extremely delicate and, as yet, impracticable scientific tests, it
cannot be demonstrated that wheat grown in one section is chemically diflPer-
ent from that of another; but, from various experiments, it would seem that
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 109
Colorado-grown cereals are unusually rich in some of those essential elements,
including the phosphates, now so highly extolled by physicians and physi-
ologists in the treatment of tubercular and other diseases involving a lowered
condition of the vital functions.
We have not space to pursue this inquiry further, except to state, in a
general way, that this soil, formed by centuries of slow disintegration and
drifting down of mountain masses, is exceedingly rich in free alkaline matter
— soda, potash, lime, etc.
The first crop of wheat raised, in some localities, was so imbued with the
alkaline principle that it would effervesce with an acid, and would almost
"suds" with water. In fact, it could not be eaten at all.
Since the same soil has been turned up to the air, exposed to frosts, and
washed with frequent rains and artificial irrigation, it has parted with this
superficial excess of alkali, and yet retains this element in sufficient propor-
tion to render other needed elements more soluble and easier of assimilation
by plants.
Whatever be the causes, evidently Colorado flour is richer than other
samples, in the earthy and essential elements that help to build up healthy
tissue. Even the bread of the everywhere poorest of all breadmakers — the
professional baker — is, here, fairly and uniformly passable and palatable.
It is neither tough nor tasteless; it has flavor, and satisfies.
Colorado beef is becoming equally famous with Colorado bread. One of
the first reasons for this is that it is never made by stall-feeding. All the
beef produced here is exclusively from animals that range at will, and grow
tender and fat with feeding on the succulent and perennial grasses of the
valleys and plains. It has the tenderness of the best stall-fed samples, while
it acquires a flavor as delicate and appetizing as that of the wild game of the
mountains, which, in respect to taste and tenderness, it certainly resembles.
Chronic invalids are, almost always, benefited by a mere change of regi-
men, even if it be, in some minor respects, for the worse. If some change
can be made from the humdrum of the Eastern home to the fresh and novel
life of a mountain country, with its more substantial bread, more virile,
blood-invigorating beef, its tempting mountain trout, and juicy wild meat,
the benefits are multiplied tenfold.
After what has already been said, specific maladies and conditions for
which this climate and its accompaniments may be confidently commended
need not be particularized, but will readily suggest themselves to the merest
tyro in pathology. A few of the more important may be further mentioned :
Consumptives, in the first and second stages, may come to Colorado with
assurance that whatever climate, natural hygienic surroundings, pure air and
water, good food, grand scenery, romantic adventure and perpetual sunshine
can do for an invalid here awaits them.
In the third and last stage no combination of favorable influences and
healthful climate, even with the aid of consummate medical skill, can avail
further than to smooth the hopeless pathway to the inevitable end. Patients
of this class can only be advised to come or stay according to the particular
circumstances or preferences of each individual case.
That eminent English physician. Dr. Chambers, in his incomparable
lectures on the Renewal of Life, gives this very sensible rule respecting the
choice of climate:
"In choosing a home for your consumptive, do not mind the average
110 ROCKT MOi:>'TAIX DIRECTORY
hei^tt of the thermometer or its variations ; do not trouble yourself about
the'^mean rain-fall: do not be scientilic at all. but find out. from somebody's
journal, how manv days were fine enou^rh to go out forenoon and afternoon.
That is the tost vou require, and by that you may be confidently guided."'
Jud-ed by this standard. Colorado is one of the most favored spots on
the face of the civilized globe for a consumptive's refuge. Although the
sun does not glare, day inland day out, as in the heart of the African desert,
but is. almostdailv. softened by "the interposition of blossomy clouds, there
are not a score of davs. in any year, in which even delicate invalids may not
sit out of doors, ride' or walk, forenoon and afternoon, with comfort and
pleasure. Add to this the fact, already cited, that the nights are always cool.
insurins plenty of restful and refreshing sleep, and two of the most essential
conditions for tlie restoration of shattered nervous systems and broken con-
stitutions have been secured.
Another verv important condition is the uniform drvness of the atmos-
phere. The air is never thoroughly saturated with moisture, as it so fre-
quently is in every portion of the older States. There is no such thing
known' as "damp nieht air.'' One may sleep with doors and windows wide
open, summer and winter, for that matter, without once "taking cold.''
Even invalids sleep on the open plains, wrapped in a pair of blankets, but
otherwise unprotected, with the most perfect impunity. Evervthing invites
to outdoor life, and herein lies half the mystery of the -cures'' which are
credited to the country.
Of the restilts in dyspepsia, and all forms of indigestion, enough has
aLreadv been said. Whatever will aid the consumptive will aid the dyspeptic ;
for the constimptive is first a dyspeptic, and, in fatal cases, always starves to
death.
In patients afflicted with bronchitis the restilts are very flattering.
Scarcely a case but is rapidly relieved.
With regard to that scourge of the Eastern and Northern States, catarrh,
there is c-onsiderable difference of opinion. In a sweeping sense, whatever
benefits the general health relieves this malady, and, in this regard, the
country may be considered favorable for sufferers from catarrh. On the
other hand, the uniform dryness of the atmosphere is thought to aggravate
many c-ases. by favoring the formation of incrustations or concretions upon
the inflamed mucous surfaces, and thus further irritating them. In a
country where the rain-fall is so scanty and the air and ground so dry, there
is also necessarily experienced more irritation from dust; but this latter is
much less annoying than it would be nattiral to expect. Some catarrh
patients rep-on immediate and thorough relief. Others assert that their
cases are rather aggravated than improved. Doubtless very much depends
upon the varying c-onstitutional conditions and general habits of the different
observers.
For aU of scrofulous habit — and, to the medical man, the term scrofula
covers a multitude of physical sins, ranging all the way from delicate com-
plexions and over-sensitive nervous systems to spinal complaint, sloughins |
ulcers, and consumption itself — there is no better climate than that of Colo- j
rado, and no country where nature so constantly invites this class of patients '
to recuperative efforts and occupations.
And yet it is not enough that an invalid shotdd come here to sit help-
lessly down, and wait for the climate alone to perform miracles in behalf of
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. Ill
his restoration. All the inestimable aids of air and food, and sunshine and
scenery, will be lost to such as allow themselves to mope in-doors, and pine
■for home and former associations, and. perhaps, for the loss of coddling
.habits and enervating indulgences. Let them, rather, take to the saddle,
explore the parks, shoot antelope on the plains, elk in the mountains, or
feast on brook trout at^d salmon of their own catching. If they must have
business, let them keep out of office pens and away from dusty counters; let
them herd their own cattle, and live half the time in the saddle and the
other half under a tent or on the naked sod. While his steers, grazing as
they jog slowly marketward. grow into money, the whilom, wheezy banker, or
short-of-breath merchant will gain avoirdupois, chest measurement and sun-
burn in equal proportions.
There is another great army of sufferers, impossible to classify, who will
find this country peculiarly adapted to their rapid and thorough restoration.
We refer to those who, by close application, sedentary avocations, in-door
confinement, or nervous wear and tear from afflictions, financial reverses or
social discordances, have become shattered in constitution, unfit for any kind
of business, and tired of life. For such, here are new scenes, fresh expe-
riences, intimate communion with nature in her most persuasive moods, rest
from the world, and that best of all balms for hurt consciences and constitu-
tions — sleep.
INHABITANTS
This brief notice of the inhabitants of Colorado will be confined entirely
to the present white, or quasi white, population. The aborigines of the country
still occupy some of the best agricultural lands of the Territory, but it is to be
hoped they will soon be pushed further west or south, beyond our limits.
The Indians should occupy no country which is suitable for the habitations
of civilization. We have no statistics at hand which give their present num-
bers in Colorado, and we do not intend to inflict upon the public the novelty
of a register of the Utes. The tough names found in some of our southern
towns are quite as much as our publishers can endure, and more than the
printers can manage with any deirree of accuracy. What they would do
with a dialect worse than bastard Spanish, we do not know, and do not
intend to find out, as we read proof ourselves.
The language of gold is universal, and all nations are equally familiar
with its glittering power. When it went abroad to the world that Colorado
was an El Dorado, representatives from all civilized countries were attracted
thither by the magic potency of untold mineral wealth; and hence, our
present copulation represents all nationalities.
It is always the most adventurous and enterprising individuals from all
communities who make up the pioneers of remote countries. It requires
energy and daring to overcome the great difficulties that present almost
insurmountable barriers to the development of new and distant sections; and
especially was this the case in Colorado, before the construction of railways.
112 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The Western pioneer has always been characterized by great daring and
energy, and the inhabitants of this Territory possess an unusual amount of
these qualities, so essential to the rapid development of a new country. This
is apparent everywhere. In a decade of years Colorado has made more pro-
o-ress in civilization, the building of cities and towns, the establishment of
institutes of learning and religion, and the accumulation of material wealth,
than any other section of the country.
As all classes of industries are represented, we have miners, mechanics,
business and professional men, agriculturists, stock-raisers and wool-growers.
These latter are mostly Americans, Englishmen and Mexicans. The miners,
who are perhaps the most numerous class, represent all nations, but, among
these, Americans and Cornishmen are most numerous. These make the
greater portion of the population of the mountain towns, and present more
peculiar characteristics than any other class. There is something in their
arduous and dangerous vocation, and the grandeur and beauty of their sur-
roundings, that makes them hospitable, daring, energetic, and generous.
They repi-esent all nations, but after a residence of a year or two in the
mountains, lose old national characteristics, in a great measure, and acquire
new ones, peculiar to the region. These changes are physical, as well as
mental. The thin, angular, and close-fisted Yankee becomes broad-shoul-
dered, deep-chested, and generous; the blustering and loud-mouthed Irish-
man is transformed into a quiet, industrious, and useful citizen; the canny
Scotchman does not forget his thrift, but loses his miserly and penurious
habits; the German retains all his industry, but becomes generous and
liberal. The Cornishman changes but little; still, his ideas become more
enlarged, and he is divested of his peculiar clannishuess. All classes become
nearer alike than the same varieties of nationalities in any other section.
One feature common to the miners of Colorado is unusual intelligence,
for a laboring class. They undoubtedly represent the better class of citizens
of the countries they migrate from, and many of them have, evidently, seen
varied phases of life in almost every country, before they sought the gold
mines of Colorado.
The professional men of our larger cities are, as a class, unusually culti-
vated and talented, for those of a new country. The want of professional
knowledge and culture which, too often, characterizes this class in new
countries, is not peculiar to our professional men.
The business men of Denver, Central, Golden, and all the principal cities
and towns of the Territory, are possessed of unusual enterprise, thrift,
business capacity and integrity. They are mostly Americans — the greater
number from the Eastern States. They retain all the thrift and capacity
native to this class, but none of the penuriousness.
The agricultural districts are populated mostly by "Western pioneers.
These possess traits characteristic of this class everywhere, and, besides
these, a spirit of progress and liberality peculiar to all the white inhabitants
of Colorado.
The mongrel races that inhabit the southern counties differ but little
irom the same specimens of degraded humanity, in New Mexico and else-
where, but that little is for the better. These races are neither industrious,
intelligent, nor energetic; but they form only a small portion the population,
and will soon be replaced by industrious citizens from the less favored agri-
cultural districts east of this.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 113
With the exception of the Indian and the mongrel races — a mixture of
Spanish, Mexican, Negro, and Indian — the inhabitants of Colorado are
peculiarly enterprising, intelligent, prosperous and hospitable.
In the large cities and towns good society exists, and moral and religious
teachings are observed with as much regularity as in the older Eastern cities.
The laws of the land are duly respected, and their enactments enforced as
rigidly as in any country, and life and property as safe in Colorado as in
Massachusetts. The days of lawlessness and unusual immorality are among
the things that were. We are not free from the vices and crimes that fol-
low civilization everywhere, but alive to the necessity of suppressing these
as much as possible; and immigrants can come to Colorado with the assur-
ance that they can enjoy the religious and educational privileges peculiar to
the older and more densely populated sections of the country.
AGRICULTURE.
How slight an accident sometimes brings about important results, initiates
a new order of things, makes the beggar a millionaire, the king a beggar I
In October, 1859, (that year from which the "oldest inhabitant" of
Colorado now dates everything), two heads of wheat were discovered ia
somebody's door-yard, in Denver. By some chance the seed had been
brought from the States, had fallen by the way-side, had taken root, and here
was the harvest. Probably but a single kernel was dropped, and the history
of that grain of wheat is the key-note of the present history of agricultural
experiments in the heart of the " Great American Desert." Ten years ago
this desert spread its inhospitable horizon over all that region of the conti-
nent now known as Colorado. Then hundreds of deluded seekers after gold,
venturing to cross the dreary and dreadful "plains," starved ere the journey
was half accomplished, and left their bones to whiten in the dry winds and
blanching suns of this human wilderness — so many monuments of grasping
human avarice. Those who survived to return, bronze-browned and half
savage from familiar contact with barbarism and the semi-scorched earth,
to tell the unwelcome tale of terrible suffering, hunger unsatisfied, thirst
unquenched, and hopes unrealized, could but paint the region as a realm of
horror, a dreary, unending and unmitigated waste of barrenness — treeless,
trackless, uninhabitable, and utterly forlorn.
But a single decade has passed, and lo, what a transformation ! Where
only the shaggy bison and the graceful antelope roamed unmolested and at
will, now a hundred herds of domestic cattle low to each other, from hill-top
to hill-top, and ruminate, at ease, in peaceful valleys. Then only the
war-whoop of the savage Indian, the fierce neigh^of the wild horse, or the
hoarse croak of the buzzard broke the oppressive stillness; now the hum of
human industry, the music of machinery, the whirl of swift wheels, and the
laughter of happy children greet the ear on every side; and the savage
"desert" has been made to teem with the ft-agrant rose of civilization.
To-day, Colorado produces better bread, beef and vegetables than any
other section of the known world. The yield of wheat from her tilled acres
8
114 ■ ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
exceeds that of every other portion of the Union, except, possibly, Cali-
fornia; while the quality is not equalled even by the best samples from the
Pacific coast.
The Colorado wheat crop of 1859 was two heads; that of 1S69, three-
quarters of a million, and that of 1870 nearly one million bushels.
The corn crop of 1870 amounted to 600,000 bushels; oats, rye and bar-
ley, nearly 1,000,000 bushels; and, of potatoes, turnips, and other root ciops,
350,000 bushels.
The wool crop exceeds 2,000,000 pounds, while the live cattle and beef
shipped to foreign markets or consumed at home, and dairy products of
every kind, were accurate figures at hand, would show a still better balance-
sheet in favor of the "arid waste."
The soil of Colorado is peculiar, in many respects. Some of it appears^
to the Eastern observer, to be utterly worthless — dry, hard, dead-looking,
and untillable. Very little grass grows on it in its wild state, and even
this is stunted and dried-looking, as though it had been close-sheared and
seared with a hot iron. But turn it up to the air, and give it a little water,
and it will produce anything that will grow in the temperate climate. It
produces not only a greater quantity, but, also, a much finer quality than
the best black loams of Illinois andOhio. It is remarkably well adapted
to the growth of wheat, oats, barley and rye. For corn, particularly in the
northern portions of the Territory, the nights in summer are too cool to bring
forward the crop to its greatest degree of perfection. In the southern valleys
there is no difficulty in raising the best quality of this cereal.
In fact, the grains of gold, that first tempted men hither, already begin to
sink into insignificance, in comparison with her golden grains.
Fruits, of every kind grown in this climate, have been tested sufficiently
to prove that they will grow here, of the finest quality. Apples, pears,
plums, cherries and grapes are an unquestioned success; while there is no
doubt but that peaches, apricots, quinces, nectarines, etc., will be equally :
successful. Grapes grown here are of an exquisite flavor, and very fine in I
size and appearance ; while the small fruits grow with a luxuriance and lus-
ciousness never attained east of the Missouri.
But Colorado is, par excellence, a grazing and dairy country. Millions I
of cattle may, yearly, be fattened on the succulent and nutritious grasses that
grow in her valleys and on her hill-sides. It is better than any tame grass
that ever grew, for the purpose, and, what is most singular of all, is as good
in winter as in summer — is practically perennial. Thus, cattle seldom need j
any artificial feeding in winter, but live and groio fat, from October till May, I
on nothing but what they pick of this wonderful grass. \
There is no limit to the business of agriculture and stock raising in I
Colorado. This is destined to become the dairy and granary of half the |
continent. i
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 115
DENVER PACIFIC RAILWAY.
This road was the first to give railroad communication to Colorado. It
extends from Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory, to Denver, Colorado — a dis-
tance of 106 miles — connecting with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne,
the Kansas Pacific and Colorado Central at Denver, and the Denver and
Boulder Valley at Hughes.
The advantages and benefits accruing to Colorado, from the completion
of this road, are incalculable. New life has been infused into her mining
and agricultural industries, and vigorous vitality given to all business enter-
prises. By this the tarifi^ on freight and passenger transportation has been
so reduced, from the high rates which were peculiar to stage and wagon!
lines, that it seems comparatively trifling. This has stimulated large immi-
gration and vast shipments of merchandise, which have increased the rev-J
enues of the Territory, and decreased the expense of conducting all business
and mining enterprises, and the cost of living generally.
The paramount advantages to Colorado of railroad communication, and
the practical benefits derived from that afforded by the Denver Pacific rail-
way, are everywhere apparent, and clearly demonstrated by the rapid increase
of population, the building of towns and cities, the active development of
mining property, and the extent and prosperity of agricultural industries.
Through the medium of this railroad Colorado first had direct communi-
cation with all business centres, east and west; her mineral and agricultural
products found a suitable market, at small expense and with trifling delay;
and capitalists, tourists, and all classes of immigrants, were enabled to avail
themselves of her unbounded resources, without the exposure and delay con-
sequent upon a journey across the great plains in a stage-coach or wagon
train.
The idea of constructing this railroad, which has afforded so much mate-
rial aid toward the complete development of the Territory, and the measures
which finally secured its completion originated with Colorado capitalists —
prominent among these, Gov. John Evans, of Denver.
In the fall of 1867 the initial steps were taken, by the organization of
a company for the purpose of connecting Denver with the Union Pacific
railroad, at Cheyenne, by means of a railway and telegraph line. The Board
of Trade of Denver took a prominent part in this important enterprise, and
were promptly and efficiently aided by the leading capitalists in the Terri-
tory, who influenced capitalists from abroad, and succeeded in raising the
necessary funds. Surveys were made at once, the route of the road decided
upon, and work pushed forward so energetically that fifty-eight miles of the
road — from Cheyenne to Evans — were completed and opened for business on
the 16th day of December, 1869. The further completion of the road was
effected without needless delay, and, on the 23d day of June, 1870, the first
passenger train arrived in Denver.
The financial exhibit of the company is represented by the following
figures :
Authorized capital stock $4,000,000
Paid in 4,000,000
Funded debt 2,600,000
Total cost of railroad and equipment 3,000.000
116 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The road and its equipments and appurtenances are, in every way, first-
class, and adapted to an extensive business. The management of the road
is entrusted to the following directors and officers :
DIRECTORS.
^JoHN Evans, Denver City, Col. D. H. Moffat, Jr., Denver City, Col.
John Pierce, " " Walter S. Cheesman, " "
W. M. Clayton, '^ " Robert E. Carr, St. Louis, Mo.
Frank Palmer', " " W.J. Palmer, " "
R, H. Lamborn, Philadelphia, Penn.
officers.
John Evans, President. C. W. Fisher, Superintendent and
John Pierce, Vice-President. General Ticket and Freight Agent.
D. H. Moffat, Jr., Treasurer. W. Wagner, G-eneral Accountant.
R. R. McCoRMiCK, Secretary. James S. Potter, Road Master.
S. C. Bradford, Master Mechanic.
The well known business ability and financial responsibility of these
gentlemen are sufficient guaranty to the public that this road will always be
kept in excellent condition, and the comfort and safety of passengers, and
the rapid transit of freight, be a certainty at all seasons.
Along the line of the road, nearly its entire extent, are some of the best
farming lands in the Territory, which have been already considerably
improved by colonists and settlers; and, at difi"erent points, beds of lignite
have been discovered, which promise to be valuable.
THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD.
One of the accomplished facts of the age is the existence of this great
trans-continental railroad, which connects the Atlantic with the Pacific, and
forms an unbroken chain in connecting the old world with the new. For
many years before the commencement of the work, this matter had been
constantly brought before the people, and agitated in Congress, by the friends
and projectors of the movement. The feasibility ot the plans submitted,
accompanied, as they were, by topographical surveys of the section of
country marked out for the iron pathway, received, at first, but little notice
or commendation ; but perseverance, and palpable assurances of success in
the enterprise, by those whose sympathies were enlisted, at last procured the
recognition and essential co-operation of the Government. Thus it was that
a company, comprising, among the number, many of our wealthiest eastern
capitalists, was formed, and arrangements immediately made for the com-
mencement of a work, the magnitude of which can hardly be realized at
this day, which witnesses the triumphant and successful completion of the
greatest enterprises ever inaugurated.
Omaha, Neb., located on the western bank of the Missouri river, was
selected as the initial point; and here, on the 5th day of November, 1865,
ground was broken, with appropriate ceremonies, and the work commenced
with vigor.
By the act of 1862, the utmost limit extended, in the completion of the
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 117
enterprise, was July 1, 1875; and the opinion became general, with a large
class, that the labor involved would prevent the work from being brought to
a successful issue within the time allotted, though time and subsequent
events have fully eradicated that impression.
The work, on its inception, was necessarily slow and retarded, through
the absence of available machinery and material essential in the prosecution
of so great an enterprise. Shops were to be built, forges erected, and tools
to be manufactured, and an army of mechanics and laborers to be procured ;
all of which occupied time. However, these obstacles were soon met and
overcome, and the work pushed forward with alacrity. As an evidence of
the rapidity with which the work progressed, it is proper to mention that, by
the 1st of January, 1866, forty miles of road had been constructed, which
was increased, during that year, to 265 miles; and, in 1867, 285 miles more
were added, making a total of 550 miles on January 1, 1868. From that
time, the work proceeded with greater energy, and the following May wit-
nessed its completion as far as Promontory Point, Utah Territory, where it
met the Central Pacific railroad — the last 53-4 miles having been constructed
in a little more than fifteen months, being an average of one and one-fifth
miles per day. Although the world is generally acquainted with the history
of the road, yet few can form an adequate conception of the immense
amount of labor performed in obtaining the material to construct the first
portion of it.
The nearest railroad was 150 miles east of Omaha, and all the road
material and supplies for the laboring force had to be brought from the
Eastern cities ; thus, the only means of transportation to be had was through
the agency of freight teams, at the most exhorbitant and extortionate prices.
The laboring force was transported by the same means. As the country
600 miles west of Omaha is completely barren of lumber, save a scanty
supply of Cottonwood in the vicinity of Platte rirer, the company was
obliged to purchase ties cut in Michigan, Pennsylvania, and Xew York, at
prices averaging as high as 82.50 per tie. It was not long, however, before
these obstacles were removed, and the work proceeded advantageously, on a
more economical basis.
The 10th day of May, 1869, was an eventful one in the history of the
Union Pacific railroad ; for it was then that the connection was made that
joined the Union with the Central Pacific road.
At a place called Promontory, a town (?) composed of about thirty board
and canvass structures, including a number of saloons and restaurants, the
great work of weary months was brought to a final and successful comple-
tion. The ceremonies of laying the last tie, and driving the last spike, were
not only impressive, but attended with the utmost enthusiasm. It was a
curious and motley group that gathered on that bright May day, to view the
consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises — an occasion
of great national importance. It was a day that was to demonstrate the
final triumph of the friends of the road over their croaking opponents ; and
it was resolved to give the utmost effect to the proceedings, and arrangements
were made accordingly, and carried out with great eclat.
It will be remembered, on this occasion, that the last tie laid was manu-
factured from California laurel, with silver plates bearing suitable inscrip-
tions, while, of the last spikes driven, there was one of pure gold, one of
silver, and another of gold, silver and iron.
118 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
When the locomotives of the two lines approached, and finally came
together and " kissed," the excitement was great, and the flow of wine
The cost of this gigantic enterprise has been variously estimated ; but
the estimate we publish is correct, as showing the amount of material used.
In the construction of the whole line, there were used about 300,000 tons
of iron rails, 1,700,000 fish-plates, 6.800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, and
23,505,500 spikes. Besides this, there was used an incalculable amount of
sawed lumber, boards for building, timber for trestles, bridges, etc. Esti-
mating the cost of the road, complete, by that of other first-class roads
(3105,000 per mile), we have the sum of $181,^0.000 as the approximate
cost of this work.
That out readers may be enabled to form some idea of the amount of
rolling-stock required to successfully operate a road of this magnitude, we
present the following exhibit, as showing the number of engines and
different kinds of cars now in use :
Locomotives 150 Fast freight cars 108
Passenger cars 40 Derrick and wrecking cars 3
Emigrantcars 22 Powder cars 2
Mail and express cars 16 Pay cars 2
Caboose cars 62 Officers' cars 3
^age cars 11 Fruit cars 12
Box carrs 1,032 Hay stock cars 48
Flat cars l.]t;5
Dump cars 52 Total 2,728
The number of ties to a mile is 2.650, on this road j but, on the eastern
roads, the number is far less.
The rails are " fished," making one continuous rail, thus adding to the
smoothness of the road, and securing an easy and pleasant motion to the
cars. Since its completion, the companies have been active in finishing up
and ballasting their tracks, so that, to-day, there exists no better road-bed in
the United States than that of the Union Pacific.
The principal works of the company are located at Omaha, and consist of
machine shops, round-house, blacksmith shop, foundry, car and paint shop,
stationary engine and water tank, and store-rooms.
The company is now actively engaged in the erection of a railroad bridge
across the Missouri, from Omaha to'Council Bluffs, Iowa. The bridge is of
the pattern known as the " Post patent," and will be of iron, a half mile in
length. ^ There will be eleven spans, of 250 feet each. It will rest fifty feet
above high water, and seventy feet above low water. The piers are to be
hollow cylinders — instead of stone— filled in with concrete, rocks, etc., and
similar in construction to the bridge crossing the Harlem river. New York.
This work will involve a cost of $2,000,000, and will be completed this year.
The railways which connect at the eastern terminus of this road, at
Omaha, and form, with it, a continuous line of communication to all the great
commercial centres of the Atlantic, Middle, and Southern States, are . The
Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Chicago & Northwestern ; Burlington &
Missouri; and St. Joseph & Council Bluffs. At the western terminus, the
Central Pacific forms the giant link in this monster chain that binds together
the shores of a continent. Its connection which is most important to the
inhabitants of Colorado, is that with the Denver Pacific, at Cheyenne By
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 119
this, the first railway commuuication was made between the great cities of
the east and the queen city of the plains — Denver. It is impossible to cal-
culate the importance of this line, which has already done more toward
developing our unrivaled resources than all other causes combined, and has
placed our vast extent of agricultural lands, and untold mineral wealth,
within the reach of all mankind.
The management of this road is, at present, entrusted to the following
officers, with their principal business office at Omaha :
President — Hon. Oliver Ames.
Vice-President — John Duff.
Treasurer — M. S. Williams.
Assistant Treasurer and Secretary — E. H. RoLLINS.
Chief Engineer — T. E. Sickles. ,
Auditor — J. W. Gannett.
General Superintendent — T. E. Sickles.
Assistant General Passenger Agent — W. C. Thompson.
General Freight Agent — H. Bkownson.
To these gentlemen, and, more especially, to the present efficient superin-
tendent and chief engineer, the traveling public are largely indebted, as the
road is always kept free from delays by snow, or other causes, and in excel-
lent condition ; thus ensuring safety and comfort. Freights over this road
are always pushed forward rapidly, as the rolling-stock is ample, and
thoroughly adapted to meet all requirements.
KANSAS PACIFIC RAILWAY.
The acts of Congress incorporating the Union Pacific Piailway Companies,
approved July 1, 1862, and July 2, 1864, authorized the construction of
this road under the name of the Union Pacific railway. Eastern Division
(name chan-ed to Kansas Pacific railway by joint resolution of Congress,
March 3d, 1869), from the confluence of the Missouri and Kansas rivers, by
the way of Fort Riley and the valley of the Republican river, to a junction
with the Union Pacific railroad at the 100th meridian.
The bonds and lands granted by the Government to this company were
the same per mile as those authorized for the Union Pacific railroad east of
the Rocky Mountains, viz.: §16,000 in bonds and 12,800 acres of land for
every mile of road, the lands being the alternate odd-numbered sections, for
twenty miles, on each side of the road.
By an amendment to the original act, approved July 3, 1866, this com-
pany was released from the obligation of connecting with the Union Pacific
railroad at the 100th meridian, and authorized to change their line west-
wardly up the Smoky Hill river from Fort Riley, on condition that they
should only receive the same amount of bonds from the United States, to aid
in the construction of their new line, that they would have been entitled to
if they connected with the Union Pacific railroad at the 100th meridian, as
was required in the original act of incorporation ; also, that they should join
120 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
the Union Pacific railroad at a point not more than fifty miles west of the
meridian of Denver, in Colorado. This company has accordingly followed
the general route of the Smoky Hill branch of the Kansas river from lort
Riley to the city of Denver, and from that point northwest to a connection
with the Union Pacific railroad. By the survey made by Major Howell, U.
S A under instructions from the President of the United States, the dis-
tance'for which the company was entitled to bonds of the Government was
found to be 393 15-16 miles, measured from the boundary line of Missouri
and Kansas, at the mouth of the Kansas river, to the 100th meridian on the
Union Pacific railroad. , , , -, r.
The land grant, under the acts of Congress, extends the whole length ot
the present line, from the initial point to the junction with the Union
Pacific railroad west of Denver. By authority of Congress, the lands and
franchises of that portion of the line from Denver to the junction with the
Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne, a distance of 106 miles, were transferred
to the Denver Pacific railroad and Telegraph Company, which is now com-
pleted and in operation from Denver to Cheyenne, making another through
line to the Pacific ocean.
The Kansas Pacific railway company has made careful surveys, by the
way of New Mexico, and the thirty-fifth parallel, to the Pacific coast, and
contemplate extending their road by that route if Congress grants the
necessary authority and aid in lands.
Grading was commenced at Wyandotte in September, 1863, and the
road was completed as follows :
To Lawrence, 88 miles, in July, 1865. To Ellsworth, 223 miles, in July, 1867.
" Topeka, 67 miles, in January, 1866. " Hays, 289 miles, in October, 1867.
" Junct'n City, 139 miles, in Oct., 1866. " Sheridan, 405 miles, in August, 18G8.
" Salina, 185 miles, in May, 1867. " Denver, 639 miles, in August, 1870.
The gross earnings have been as follows :
For the year 1865 $ 70,525 80
" " 1866 442,327 20
" " 1867 1,811,458 11
" " 1868 1,910.161 83
" '« 1869 2,225,850 11
ten months, 1870 2,927,477 99
Total $9,387,801 04
Rolling stock, December 19, 1870: Locomotives, 76; passenger cars>
43; baggage, mail and express cars, 15; freight cars, 1,158.
The following are the connections of the Kansas Pacific railway :
At Kansas City, with the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs railroad.
" " " " " Hannibal & St. Joseph railroad.
" " " " " North Missouri railroad.
" " " " " Pacific (of Missouri) railroad.
" " " " " Missouri River, Fort Scott & Gulf railroad.
" Lawrence, " " Leavenworth, Lawrence & Galveston railroad.
" Leavenworth, " " Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs railroad.
" " " " Leavenworth, Atchison & Northwestern railroad.
" " " " Pacific railroad (of Missouri).
" Topeka, " " Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroad.
" Junction City, " '"' Missouri, Kansas & Texas railroad.
" Denver, " " Denver Pacific railroad.
" " " " Colorado Central railroad.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 121
The land grant to the company amounts to over 6,000,000 acres, and
comprises some of the most fertile and valuable lauds iu Kansas and Colo-
rado. A portion of their lands were opened for sale January 1, 1868, and
the company have already sold over 600,000 acres, and the sales would have
been much larger, but that a large portion of the lands in western Kansas
and Colorado have never been surveyed by the Government until the present
year (1870). The lands are sold for cash, or part cash and part notes, the
latter bearing interest at six per cent, per annum and payable iu from one to
five years.
OFFICERS OF THE ROAD.
John D. Perry, President, St. Louis, Mo.
Adolphus Meier, First Vice-President, St. Louis, Mo.
KoBERT E. Carr, Second Vice-President, St. Louis, Mo.
Carlos S. Greeley, Treasurer, St. Louis, Mo.
Sylvester T. Smith, Auditor, St. Louis, Mo.
Chas. B. Lamboon, Secretary, St. Louis, 3Io.
A. Anderson, General Superintendent, Lawrence, Kan.
Geo. Noble, Assistant General Superintendent, Lawrence, Kan.
T. F. Oakes, General Freight Agent, Kansas City, Mo.
R. B. Gemmell, General Ticket Agent, Lawrence, Kan.
G. W. Gushing, Superintendent Machinery, Armstrong, Kan.
J. P. Devereux, Land Commissioner, Lawrence, Kan.
The completion of this road to Denver was a most important event in the
history of Colorado, and was duly celebrated by our citizens, the capitalists
connected with the enterprise, and the "Press" of the western country gen-
erally. By this, direct communication has been opened with the great
prairie regions east of the "Plains," and with the Middle and Southern
States, and millions of acres of good agricultural and grazing lands made
available to settlers. It has already substantially advanced all Colorado
industries, and inaugurated a new and permanent era of progress. The
management of the road, under Superintendent General A. Anderson, has
been acknowledged as nearly faultless as possible; and notwithstanding the
difficulties which surround railroad travel across the great plains during
inclement seasons, passengers and freight are transported safely and with
dispatch at all times. As a permanent source of advantage to Colorado, this
railway has no successful rival, and, besides our Territory, a large section of
country is largely benefitted by its construction.
THE DENVER AND BOULDER VALLEY RAILROAD.
This road branches from the Denver Pacific at Hughes, a station eighteen
miles from Denver, and extends, at present, to Erie, a distance of fifteen
miles, and will soon be completed to Boulder City, a further distance of six-
teen miles.
122 KOCKY I^IOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The Denver and Boulder Valley Railroad Company was organized in
October, 1870, with a capital stock of $1,000,000. The following well
known business men and capitalists constitute its board of officers :
Hon. Jerome B. Chaffee, Pres't. R. R. McCormick, Secretary.
W. S. Cheesman, Vice-Pres't. D. H. Moffat, Jr., Treasurer.
directors.
John Evans, W. S. Cheesman,
J. B. Chaffee, P. M. Housell,
D. H. Moffat, Jr., Granville Burklet,
General W. J. Palmer.
Bonds to the amount of $300,000, bearing seven per cent, interest, pay-
able semi-annually, were issued by the company — their payment guaranteed
by the Denver Pacific Railway Company. From the sale of these bonds the
necessary funds were realized, and work was commenced on the 24th of
October, 1870, and completed to Erie, its present terminus, in January, 1871.
From one of the Denver dailies we copy the following description of
the road :
"The work has been done in a first-class ma»Dner, and reflects high credit
on all engaged on it. The contractors were Messrs. Robert E. Carr, of St.
Louis, and D. H. Mofiat, Jr., whose energy and financial ability are too well
known to need any extended praise at this time. The engineer was Mr. H.
R. Holbrook, a young man of great experience and skill, and whose success
is a sufficient guarantee of bis ability. He was ably assisted by Messrs. M.
P. Reynolds and J. D. Schuyler. The tracklayers were Mike Green and
Alex. Stevens. The road is as good a piece of new track as was ever laid.
The bridges are substantially constructed, and everything about the con-
struction may be characterized as a success."
This road penetrates a portion of the best agricultural lands in Boulder
county, and its present terminus is at a newly-organized town — Erie — in the
immediate vicinity of extensive coal mines, the property of the Boulder
Valley Coal Company. This company is composed of Denver and Eastern
capitalists, with tTudge R. Balcome, of Biughampton, New York, president;
Hon. E. C. Kattell, vice-president; and Major H. C. Hill, superintendent.
Their property consists of nearly 7,000 acres of coal lands, on which
three or four distinct veins have already been discovered. Only one of these
veins are worked, at present, but that will furnish aa almost inexhaustible
amount of lignite, which forms excellent fuel. The roud affijrds facilities
for this reaching Denver and other markets, where consumers can be sup-
plied at small expense.
Altogether, the completion of the road, thus far, is an important event
in the history of Colorado enterprises, the fruits of which are already
apparent, as a Chicago colony has been attracted by the vast resources of
the region it penetrates, and has chosen a location near its terminus as the
head-quarters of the new and flourishing colony.
The road has been leased by the Denver Pacific railway, and will be
under the efficient management of that excellent company. This insures a
careful and efficient government of its afi'airs, and guarantees safety and com-
fort to passengers, and care and dispatch in the transportation of freights.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 12^
COLORADO CENTRAL RAILROAD.
The object of this road is railway communication between Denver and
the mountain towns and cities of Colorado. It was completed to Golden
City in September, 1870, which event was duly celebrated by the citizens of
Denver, Golden City, and Gilpin and Clear Creek counties. Its completion
thus far has already largely benefitted not only the rich agricultural and coal
mining region it traverses, but the gold and silver mining districts in the
mountains. This is the first railway to reach the foot-hills in Colorado, and
may be the first to penetrate these and climb the mountain ranges beyond.
'Careful surveys have already defined the line of this road through the foot-
hills and along spurs of the range to Georgetown, and have established,
beyond question, the fiict that our mountain cities and mining districts can
and will have railroad facilities. It is, perhaps, needless to add that the
mining interests of the Territory have already received a fresh impetus from
the success of this enterprise, and that their future prosperity will be largely
enhanced by the means of cheap and rapid transportation for freight and
passengers, which this road will aflFord, when completed, to the mining
districts.
The initial steps toward the formation of a company to construct and
stock the Colorado Central were taken by W. A. H. Loveland, of Golden
'City, who is one of the present directors, and has always been an active and
able friend of the enterprise. In his untiring efforts in pushing forward the
work he has been ably aided by T. J. Carter, Esq., also of Golden City — the
president of the road. These gentlemen have been promptly assisted by
other capitalists, and have displayed commendable energy and business
capacity in the management of the company's affairs ; and have not only
made rapid progress in constructing the road, but have made it first-class in
every way.
The work of completing the road to the mining districts is being pushed
forward with much energy, and in a short time miners of Gilpin and Clear
Creek counties will have railroad transportation for their ores to the base
of the mountains.
The officers who have immediate charge of the business of the Colorado
Central railroad are: T. J. Carter, President; J. B. Shepherd,
General Freight and Ticket Agent.
DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILWAY.
This line of road, when completed, will connect Denver with the
El Paso, in Old Mexico, and with the Denver Pacific, of which it is really,
a continuation, will make a continuous line of railway in Colorado, from the
northern to the southern limits.
Proceeding southward from Denver the road will cross the Divide at
the head of Plum creek — will pass down Monument creek to the Fountaine
qui Bouille — down this stream to the Arkansas, and up the Arkansas to
Poncho pass. From this pass it will follow the course of the Rio Grande
through New Mexico and onward to its terminus — El Paso.
124: ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The Denver and Rio Grande Railway Company has been organized, with
General W J Palmer, of Denver, as president, and has issued stock to the
amount of one million dollars, for the construction of the first 80 miles of road,
and work is progressing rapidly. One hundred thousand dollars ot the
stock was taken in Colorado ; two hundred thousand in other parts of the
United States, and seven hundred thousand in Europe. The first 80 miles
of this road will be completed during the summer of 1871, and the balance
as soon thereafter as possible. j -ii
The company expects the countries, through which their road will
pass, to aid them in securing the necessary funds required to complete it,
by voting bonds for that purpose. This should be done liberally, as the
road will develop the country and enhance the value of all kinds of property
along its line. The route of this road, in Colorado, is through the richest
agricultural and grazing districts, and sufficiently near the mountains and
foot-hills to benefit the gold, silver and coal mining regions.
The well known energy and business ability of the president of the
company make the success of this enterprise a certainty, and ensure Colorado
a continuous line of railroad from the northern to the southern borders.
THE SOUTHERN OVERLAND MAIL AND EXPRESS COMPANY.
This company was organized at Kansas City, Mo., in 1862, by Messrs.
Barlow, Sanderson & Co. At that time it consisted of a weekly line of post
coaches from Kansas City to Santa Fe, via Smoky Hill route to FortHarker,
Kan , and thence to Fort Zarah, on the Arkansas; up the Arkansas to Bent's
old fort, in Colorado, and on to Santa Fe by way of Trinidad, Fort Union,
and Las Vegas. The time occupied in making the through trip was
twenty days.
July 1, 1866, the Union Pacific Railroad Company, Eastern Division
(now Kansas Pacific), having reached Junction City, 138 miles west of
Kansas City, the company moved its initial office to this point, and changed
the line to a tri-weekly. Time to Santa Fe, eight days. In the spring of
1867 the company advanced to Saliua, Kan., continuing the line, as a tri-
weekly, from this point to Santa Fe; time seven days. During the summer
of 1867 the road reached Fort Harker, and the route was then traveled
from this point, by way of Fort Zarah, as before; time, six days. In the
fall of the same year, the iron track having been pushed as far as Fort Hays,
Kan., the route was changed to run from the latter, southwest, by way of
Fort Dodge, on the Arkansas, leaving forts Larned and Zarah to the east-
ward. From Fort Dodge the route continued as before. Time to Santa Fe,
five days.
In July, 1868, the company followed in the wake of the iron steed, to
Sheridan, Kas., 397 miles west from Kansas City. The route was now
reconstructed, striking west to forts Wallace and Lyon and Bent's Fort;
continuing west to Trinidad, and so on, as before, to Santa Fe, and was also
changed to a daily line. Time from Sheridan, four days.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 125
A branch line was also put in operation, from Bent's Fort to Pueblo,
connecting, at the latter place, with the Denver and Santa Fe stages for
Denver and Northern Colorado.
The line continued to start from Sheridan until in February, 1870,
when track-laying had proceeded sufficiently to warrant a new change of
base; and the company moved its head-quarters, respectively, to Pond Creek,
Eagle Tail, and finally, on the 9th of April, to Kit Carson, 485 miles west
from Kansas City.
The main route, since that time, has been and will, for some time, con-
tinue to be from Kit Carson, via Fort Lyon, Trinidad, etc., to Santa Fe,
and the trip is made in three days.
A second important line is now also operated by this company, as suc-
cessor to A. Jacobs & Co., running from Denver to Trinidad, by way of
Colorado City and Pueblo, connecting, at Trinidad, with the Kit Carson, or
main line, for Santa Fe. Daily coaches are run over the entire length of
both lines. Time from Denver, same as from Carson — three days.
The fare from Kit Carson to Santa Fe is $90.00; fare from Denver to
Colorado City, S9.00; to Pueblo, §15.00; Trinidad, 830.00; and to Santa
Fe, $80.00.
The company consists of J. L. Sanderson, B. Barlow, and Gr. J. Barnum.
The officers are: J. L. Sanderson, Superintendent, Kansas City; John
R. Griffith, Secretary and Treasurer, Kansas City; W. S. Stone, Denver,
Paymaster and Assistant Superintendent.
The number of coaches now in use on the several lines is fifty. The
company employs 100 men, and between 600 and 700 horses and mules.
WAGON ROADS.
The traveler in Colorado is equally gratified and surprised at the excel-
lent condition of the roads of the Territory, both on the plains and in the
mountains, and at all seasons. The expense of road making on the plains
is comparatively trifling; but on the mountains, thousands of dollars are
often required to construct a few miles of road, as almost insurmountable
barriers must be overcome.
On the plains the expense of constructing roads is borne mainly by the
counties which the roads traverse. This is the case also in the settled portion
of the Territory west of the mountains; but in the mountains roads are built
and kept in repair almost exclusively by individuals or companies, who remu-
nerate themselves by the tolls collected from all classes of travelers.
A detailed description of the wagon roads that traverse the plains in
every direction — connecting towns, cities and settlements, and forming
convenient mediums for the transportation of freight and passengers at all
seasons — would be superfluous in a work of this character; but a brief
description of a few of the roads in the mountains may be interesting, and
will serve to illustrate the statement that excellent wagon roads are one of
the important features of our new country.
126 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The following roads are only a few among the many in the mountains,
which are equally as good in all respects. We give them, because they
traverse the rich gold and silver mining regions, and afford excellent and
safe communication between the principal mountain towns and cities.
No tourist can visit Colorado, and interview her fine scenery and rich
mineral deposits, without traveling over nearly every road we mention, and
though he may find the indications that toll must be paid rather frequently,
he will feel satisfied that he has his money's worth in safety and comfort.
ENTERPRISE WAGON ROAD.
This road was chartered in 1861, by the first legislature of Colorado.
It extends from the centre of Black Hawk, ten miles east, down the valley.
At Black Hawk the road branches, and comes together again within two miles
of the terminus. One of the roads was built by Harry Fliggers & Co. in
1859, and is known as the old road; the other by the Smiths and Fliggers,
in 1860, and is known as the new road. Capital stock, §30,000. The first
President was N. K. Smith; present President, N. K. Smith; L. K. Smith
in charge of road, and acting Secretary. The route of travel between Central
City and the plains lies along this road. It is always in excellent condition.
BOULDER VALLEY AND CENTRAL CITY WAGON ROAD.
This road intersects the Enterprise wagon road, on Dory's hill, three and
a half miles from Black Hawk, and runs to Boulder City. Capital stock of
the Boulder Valley and Central City Wagon Road Co. is S75,000. C. N.
Tyler is Secretary and Business Manager. It is the main traveled road
between Boulder City and the gold regions of Gilpin county.
CENTRAL AND MIDDLE PARK WAGON ROAD.
The charter to build this road was granted by Gilpin and Summit coun-
ties, in July, 1870. Capital stock, $4,000. This road will be completed to
Middle park by July, 1871.
Officers. — Wm. Atcheson, President; Ben. Wiseburt, Secretary;
T. H. Potter, Treasurer; Maj. Geo. H. Hill, Surveyor.
This road is already nearly completed to James' peak, and tourists can
leave Central City in the morning and returti before dark, having time to l
remain an hour on the peak. The scenery surrounding this road, its entire
length, is unsurpassed in beauty and sublimity, and the road itself is in good
condition for traveling with buggies or carriages during the summer months.
THE central and GEORGETOWN WAGON ROAD.
This road extends the greater portion of the distance from Central to
Georgetown, via Eureka gulch. Fall river and Clear creek. It is twelve
miles in length. I
Officers.— Walter Bates, Superintendent; J. C. Eabley, in charge I
of toll gate.
This road is traveled extensively at all seasons, and is always in good
repair and suitable for all classes of vehicles.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 127
VIRGINIA CANON WAGON ROAD.
This road extends from Idaho to the head of Virginia canon, three miles,
and gains an elevation of 2,000 feet in that distance.
Officers. — Fox Diefendorf, President; F. W. Beebe, Secretary and
Treasurer; G. W. Decker, in charge at toll gate.
A ride down Virginia canon, via this road, in one of the six-horse coaches
of the Colorado Stage Co. — the horses at full trot — is thrilling in the extreme.
SOUTH CLEAR CREEK WAGON ROAD.
This road extends from Idaho to Burgen's ranch. It is twelve miles in
length. The owners are Edwards & Camp. This forms the first portion of
the main stage road that connects Idaho Springs with the plains, and is sur-
rounded by scenes ever varied and beautiful.
CHICAGO CREEK WAGON ROAD.
This road extends from Idaho Springs, seven miles up Chicago creek.
H. W. Teller, of Central, is its principal owner and manager. It lies
along the borders of the beautiful creek that carries the surplus waters of
Chicago lakes to Clear creek, and afi"ords tourists good facilities for reaching
these remarkable sheets of water.
IDAHO AND FALL RIVER WAGON ROAD.
This road was constructed by Clear Creek county in 1860. It was pur-
chased by the Idaho and Fall River Road Co. in 1869, put in a complete
state of repair, and converted into a toll road. It is three miles in length,
and extends from Idaho Springs to the mouth of Fall river.
Officers. — W. Teller, President; A. E. Patten, Agent in charge at
toll gate.
GEORGETOWN AND BRECKINRIDGE WAGON ROAD.
This road was built and is owned by the Baker Silver Mining Co., and
extends from Georgetown to the base of Gray's peak, being eleven miles in
length. The officers of this road are the officers of the Baker Silver Mining
Co. The cost of constructing this road was §16,000. Tourists from George-
town pass over this road on their way to Gray's peak.
GEORGETOWN AND ARGENTINE WAGON ROAD.
This road was incorporated under general laws in 1868, and built by the
Georgetown and Argentine Wagon Road Co., aided by subscriptions from
Clear Creek and Gilpin counties, at an expense of §5.000.
Officers. — W. Carpenter, of Chicago, President; Prof Frank Dib-
BEN, Vice-President; H. C. Chapin, Secretary and Treasurer.
This road was built under the supervision of Prof. Dibben. Its length
is seven miles. This road extends from Georgetown nearly to the base of
the main range, along the south fork of South Clear creek; and though
the region is extremely rugged, the road is accessible for all kinds of wagons
or carriages, at all seasons. Tolls, nominal.
128 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
TELEGRAPH LINES.
The first telegraph line across the continent was built by the Pacific Tel-
egraph Co., under a government subsidy of 140,000 per year. The line was
started from Brownville, Neb., in 18G0, and was run to Omaha; thence, up
the north bank of the Platte, to Ft. Kearney; thence, up the south bank ot
the Platte, to Julesburgj and from thence, via the Old Stage Road to Ft.
Laramie and Ft. Bridger, to Salt Lake, where it connects with a line that
had been previously constructed eastward from San Francisco.
In the summer of 1863 Mr. Edward Creighton obtained a liberal
subscription from the citizens of Denver, to aid in the construction of a
branch line from Julesburg to Denver. The building of this line was com-
menced in August, of the same year, and completed to Denver in October,
under the supervision of B. F. Woodward, who opened intermediate offices
at Valley Station, Junction and Living Springs, and assumed the manage-
ment at Denver, upon the completion of the line.
Two years later the Pacific Telegraph Co. was merged into, and became
a part of the system of lines of the Western Union Telegraph Co. Mr.
Woodward still continues to represent the Western Union Co. as superin-
tendent of lines in Colorado and New Mexico. This line has stations at
Golden, Central, Georgetown, and other mountain towns.
THE UNITED STATES AND MEXICO TELEGRAPH CO.
In the summer of 1867, an association of Denver gentlemen organized
the LTnited States and Mexico Telegraph Co. ; and, during the following
winter and spring completed the first Colorado telegraph enterprise, by open-
ing a line for business from Denver to Santa Fe. The first board of trustees
were —
> <
D. H. Moffat, Jr., Henry M. Porter,
William N. Byers, Fred. Z. Salomon,
George P. Shire, Samuel H. Elbert,
B. F. Woodward.
This line has done much towards promoting intercourse and traffic
'between the Territories of Colorado and New Mexico.
COLONIES.
^ The success of the Meeker-Greeley colony, organized at New York city
in the winter of 1869-70, and locating within the borders of Colorado in the
spring following, was such as to give a decided impetus to similar organiza-
tions m various sections of the States. Scarcely a State east of the Mississippi
but has had its colony scheme and colony excitement. In fact, colonization
schemesarejust now the rage, and the rage intensifies daily as the season
advances. The results thus far developed'set at rest the many grave doubts
expressed by wiseacres while the plans were being agitated, as to the practi-
cability of what might be termed cooperative immigration.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 129
^Ve cannot afford space to give an extended history of the various
organizations of this character which have, thus far, cast their lots — both
real and figurative — on Colorado soil. A brief outline of such as have
advanced far enough to have an initiatory history will be sufficient to show
that the colonization theory has been carried into practical execution, and is
an unqualified success.
l^y this means families retain their relative positions in coumiunity,
instead of each wandering alone and into comparative seclusion to wait iur
the slow development of the country about them. They do not break away
from the social circle, but carry it with them into the far-west wilds.
UNION COLONY.
The history of this colony is too generally known to require any extended
notice.
Organized in New York city on the 2.3d of December, 1869, by the
election of a president, vice-president and treasurer, and the appointment
of an executive committee of five persons, this movement has grown from
an enrolled membership of fifty-nine persons, until now it can boast of a
large settlement, a thrifty and substantial town ornamented with artificial
lakes, parks and water-courses, and a harmonious couimunity of several
hundreds of intelligent and energetic people. It was an experiment, but
the experiment, despite the predictions of croakers, has crystalized into a
pronounced success.
The executive committee of this colony, after having investigated the
advantages and inducements offered by Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah,
and Colorado, fixed upon the latter as in every way more desirable, while
presenting fewer and less formidable drawbacks than any of the other
sections inspected. After a careful and thorough examination of the various
localities, a selection of lands was made along the valley of the beautiful
Cache-a-la-Poudre river, in the northern portion of the Territory. The town
site was located on the banks of this stream, a few miles above its junction
with the South Platte.
In honor of one of its originators, the new town was named Greeley.
The site of the town is a delta formed by the Cache-a-la-Poudre and
South Platte rivers, and on the line of the Denver Pacific railway, midway
between Denver and Cheyenne. It has an elevation of a little less than
4.800 feet, and is in latitude 40° 25' north; and longitude, 27° 48' west
of Washington.
The colony purchased from the Denver Pacific Railway Company, and
from private individuals, twelve thousand acres of land. The preliminary
steps for the occupation of sixty thousand acres of government lands were
also taken, and a contract made with the Denver Pacific railway to purchase,
at any time within three years, fifty thousand acres more, at a cost of from
S3 to S4 per acre, by paying interest from date of contract. Thus the
colony at once gained control of nearly one hundred and twenty-five
thousand acres, including some of the finest lands in the Territory, with
charters for irrigating canals covering the entire area.
The town site was subdivided into 520 business lots, 25 x 190 feet; 673
residence lots, ranging in size from 50 x 190 to 200 x 190 feet; and 277
lots, reserved for schools, churches, public buildings, etc. The adjacent
9
130 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
lands were divided into plats of from five to one hundred and twenty acre?
each, according to distance from the town centre, and each member allowed to
select one of these plats under his colony certificate of membership. All
the lands are to be supplied with water, and are not subject to assessment on
any account, except for the nominal cost of keeping the irrigating canals
and ditches in repair. A plaza^ or public square, of ten acres was laid out
in the centre of the town, artificial lakes constructed, trees planted, and by
June, 1870, the first canal was completed, and water running through all the
principal streets. An island in the river, just above the town, comprising
nearly fifty acres, and nicely shaded with native cottonwoods, was reserved
for public uses, and named "Island Grove Park."
The usual experiences of pioneering, want of accommodations, remote-
ness from settlements, etc., were endured by the early arriving colonists; and
the inevitable dissatisfactions and disappointments attending such novel
enterprises followed. The faint-hearted and the visionary — those who could
not at once realize their chateaux en esjKigne — did the usual amount of
crumbling, and some returned to the States in disgust.
Other canals were, in time, completed ; the melted snows of the mountain
tops came splashing through the town and over the sun-parched soil, and
transformed the forlorn wilderness into a promise of paradise. The despond-
ing took heart as they saw the cactus gradually supplanted by the cucumhcr,
(columbine), and new comers were spared the disappointment and mortifica-
tion experienced by the advance guard of the colony at the apparent dcsolate-
ness of the country. Their doubts and prejudices respecting irrigation were
soon dispelled. Buildings were completed, gardens began to bloom, and
with the exception of a few discontents, who would find fault with the
climate or the soil, or the sunshine, or something, if they were to be turned
loose in Paradise, the colony became a community of cheerful, hopeful and
industrious men and women.
This, the oldest of the new experiments in the colony line, is a success.
Some mistakes have occurred in its management, and there has been some
dissatisfaction with various officers and leading spirits. As is usually the
case, self-aggrandizement and ambition have prompted over-reaching elForts
on the part of prominent managers. But, in the main, the original plan of
the organization has been as faithfully carried out as circumstances would
adn)it. There is no doubt but that " the thoughts of men arc widened by
the process of the suns," — especially western suns; and the Greeley colonista
will broaden in their sympathies and views of life, after inhaling thu
mountain atmosphere of this region for a few years. In turn they may
teach these recklessly extravagant; Coloradans a wholesome lesson of saving
and economy. For, while the hospitality of the latter knows no bounds,
their purses have come to be as open as their hearts. Scarcely a family in
the Territory but wastes as much as would support a similar family in Ne\f
England. They spend dollars where eastern-bred people are sparing of
dimes.
Greeley is a fixed fact. It has its schools, churches, banks and estab-
lished business houses. It has its newspaper — a sprig of its godfather, the
N. Y. Tribune,— Its Educational Board, Farmer's Club, Exchange Place,
Its ].yceum and Library Association. The town now contains over three
hundred and fifty buildings, ranging from board shanties to red brick
fronts. There are seventeen stores, three lumber yards, three blacksmith and
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. ICl
wapron shops, one printing office, and one livery stable. There is still oppor-
tunity to join the colony. All information can be obtained by addressing
the " Bureau of Statistics and Information," Greelc}^, Colorado.
THE GERMAN COLONY.
This colony, which was organized at Chicago in the spring of 1870,
under the leadership of Carl AV'ulsten, and which made the passage from
Chicago, via the Kansas Pacific route, to the Wet Mountain valley, wIlIi a
good deal of parade and echit^ has not succeeded in accomplishing as much
or making as satisfactory a record as the one already described. Charges
of corruption and dishonesty have been openly preferred against some of
the prominent men of the organization, by members who have left in disgust.
Others report that the situation selected is the very worst that could have
been found in Colorado. They assert that the elevation is so great, and the
valley so hemmed in by bleak mountains, that nearly all crops fail to mature
before the frost period cuts them off. On the other hand, these reports are
declared to be the exaggerated croakings of disaffected members, who fool-
ishly expected to find all the hills flowing with wine and honey, and milk,
and — lager!
We have no statistics at hand with which to either corroborate or con-
tradict the above statements. Doubtless the disaffected exaggerate the dis-
advantages and disappointments, while the managers equally overrate the
advantages and successes of the enterprise.
Wet Mountain valley lies south from Canon City, in Pueblo and Fremont
counties. It is well shut in by spurs of mountain ranges; well watered;
abundantly supplied with timber* in the vicinity of excellent and extensive
beds of coal, and will doubtless attract more and more attention as it becomes
better known.
CHICAGO-COLORADO COLONY.
This colony, yet in its infancy is one of the most important that has yet
selected this Territory as its home-site. Unlike the Union Colony, it orig-
inated at the West, and is chiefly composed of Western men. With their
characteristic enterprise and grit they have found a location just where
every locating committee, preceding them, had overlooked it; close to coal,
iron, timber and building-stone; well watered; near railroads and markets;
and comprising a soil, facilities for irrigation, water-power, and general
physical features every way desirable. The lands selected, amounting to
nearly 60,000 acres, lie along the rich valleys of the Boulder St. Yrain,
Left Hand and Little Thompson creeks. They include the lower range of
foot-hills, and extend eastward, from the base of the mountains, for a distance
of about twenty miles. The site for the new town, which is to be the radi-
ating centre of the new community, is located about a mile north from the
little village of Burlington, in Boulder county. It is to be called Longmont,
and is distant from the nearest railway station about eight miles. It is
thirty three miles from Denver, and about the same distance from Greeley;
fifteen miles from Boulder City, and from twenty-five to fifty miles from the
heart of the silver and gold mining regions of Boulder and Gilpin counties.
From Longmont the mountain view is magnificent. The foot-hills are not
more than eight miles distant, and Long's peak lifts its snowy crest 10,000
132 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
feet above the little hamlet, nearly due west, and, apparently but an hour's
drive, is distant about thirty miles. It is worth a journey of a thousand
miles even in a break-bone stage coach, to witness a winter sunrise dawning
upon tliis grand monarch of mountains.
The Boulder valley is one of the richest and most beautiful in Colorado.
The stream is clear, rapid and full of trout, affording facilities for irrigation,
idy
marliets. In fact, the coal fields of Boulder county are absolutely inex-
haustible.
Thus favorably situated, and carefully managed, the Chicago-Colorado
colony cannot but prove a success. The mistakes of its predecessors need
not be repeated, while its managers can certainly learn much from the expe-
rience of others. The spontaneity of the organization in the beginning; the
prompt and unhesitating action of the locating committee, and the enthusiasm
with which every man connected with the enterprise throws himself into the
work, are all characteristic of the locality from whence they come. Irriga-
ting streams of water already cover much of the colony's lands, and the
management have promptly ordered nearly 2,000 acres of grain to be soWn.
Lumber is on the ground; buildings are going up; the village of Burlington
has surrendered unconditionally, and most of its citizens have joined the
incoming colony. Until the advent of these tireless, driving, steel-sinewed
and steam-driven Chicagoans, the little community, now so full of ambition
and enterprise, was in a hopeless state of human hibernation.
To reach the colony from the East, tickets should be purchased to
Denver, where connection is made with the Boulder Valley railroad to Erie,
the present terminus of the latter, and but eight miles distant from Longmont.
THE SOUTHWESTERN COLONY.
This organization, although not so far advanced as others, has matured
its plans sufficiently to be mentioned. It was initiated at Memphis, Tenn.,
but its members are from various States, including Tennessee, Kentucky,
Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. A town site has been selected on the banks ol
the South Platte, twenty-five miles below Evans, on the Denver Pacific rail
way, and seventy-five miles from Denver. It is near the old landu)ark.;
known as "Fremont's Orchard," and just below an island in the river, which
is covered with native cottonwoods. The town has been named Greensboro,
in honor of its chief projector and patron, Col. D. S. Green, a gentleman
well and favorably known in Colorado. Lost Spring creek debouches into
the Platte, just above the town site, and its valley constitutes one of the
chief attractions of the locality. It is about two miles wide; its soil is o.
deep alluvial loam, as light and friable as an ash heap, and produces a mosf'
luxuriant growth of a peculiar kind of perennial grass, resembling the
famous blue grass of Kentucky. At least 15,000 acres of these valley'lands
need no artificial irrigation whatever, and the broad expanse of uplands,
further back, furnish unlimited range for pasturage. On the Platte bottom
there are also thousands of acres, which may be cultivated without irrigation.
Besides these, there are easy facilities for constructing an irrigating canal,
of not more than two or three miles in length, which will cover 8,000 or
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER.
10,000 acres more; while, eventually, by a little more outlay, water can be
carried over nearly all the highlands in the vicinity, including hundreds of
thousands of acres.
The plan of this colony is somewhat different from that of others now
located. Each member pays over a moderate membership fee, which entitles
him to special rates of transportation to the colony site, a share in the division
of the town property, and such other privileges as inhere to similar organiza-
tions. At the same time there are no restrictions or obligations imposed
upon members; no communism or cooperative interests. Each one is left to
make his own selection of vocation; to preempt lands; claim as homestead or
otherwise, as he may elect, and in every respect to act his or her own prefer-
ence as in ordinary communities. The location is certainly very desirable in
many respects. At present, it is twenty five miles to the nearest railway
station; but in time, no doubt, a line of railway will be constructed up the
valley of the South Platte, connecting, at the mouth of the latter, with the
Union Pacific, and opening up the grand expanse of grazing lands spread
out on either side of this stream. In this event, which can only be consid-
ered as a matter of time, Greensboro will have a much more direct eastern
outlet than any town or colony yet projected in Colorado. Among its promi-
nent members are some of the leading men of the various sections represented,
and the colony bids fair to become the nucleus of a large and thrifty settle-
ment. Full information concerning it, may be obtained by addressing Col.
D. S. Green, at Denver.
In addition to the foregoing there are numerous other colonies, whose
locating committees are actively exploring the different sections of the Ter-
ritory for the most favorable locations; but, up to this writing, they either
have not fioally fixed upon their sites, or they decline to make the chosen
spots known, lest wily land sharks thwart their purposes. Of these, there
is a Boston colony, a Western colony, a Tennessee colony, and several
others not specially named.
RELIGIOUS
The pioneers of this land of grains of gold and golden grains, though
lemote from the great centres of Christianity and civilization, have ever been
mindful of the importance of religious influences and teachings. At an early
period in the history of the country, when the gold excitement was inteiKe,
and all other interests seemed to have been absorbed in the one fascinating
pursuit — gold hunting — church organizations were not forgotten, and a
series of systematic efforts were inaugurated, which have resulted in the
present prosperous condition of the churches.
When every passion and emotion is aroused, and every faculty absorbed
by some intensely exciting pursuit, the importance of preparation for a future
life is often partially overlooked, or entirely neglected. No avocation so com-
pletely engrosses every sentiment of the human heart as the search for gold.
As this was the leading pursuit of the earlier settlers of Colorado, it would
134 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
not have beeu strange if religious interests had been neglected; but such
was not the case, and it speaks well for the hardy pioneers, when it can be
said that many of them were, and still remain in the front ranks of religious
progress, and that they have been the bearers of Christianity and civilization
wherever the attractions of glittering gold allured them.
We have not at hand sufficient data from which to compile a com-
plete history of all the church organizations in the Territory, nor is it to be
expected in a work of this kind, but we give sufficient statistics to illustrate
the important fact that religious matters have not been neglected in Colo-
rado, and to assure immigrants to our Territory, that they can enjoy all the
religious privileges they may have beeu accustomed to in their homes east of
the great plains.
Besides the data given below, the Presbyterians, Congregationalists and
Baptists have churches and church organizations in all the principal cities
and towns in the Territory, which are fairly supplied with clergymen, and
are enjoying a degree of prosperity encouraging to all lovers of gospel truths.
"We regret an almost entire absence of any detailed account of these churches,
except what follows, but can safely assert that every denomination has its
share of support and success, and that persons of every sect, who make a
home in Colorado, will find the means of enjoying their peculiar religious
privileges always at hand.
EPISCOPAL CHURCH.
DENVER.
St. John's Cathedral; the Rt. Rev. Geo. M. Randall, D. D., Bishop of
Colorado, rector; the Rev. Samuel J. French, A. M., assistant minister.
This parish was organized in 1860, by the Rev. John II. Kehler, who still
resides in Denver, and officiates but occasionally, in consequence of infirmi-
ties incident to increasing years. The church edifice has recently been
enlarged. Measures are in progress for securing the means wherewith to
erect a new church, which, in point of material, dimensions, and architec-
tural taste, will be worthy the sacred purposes for which it is to be used, and
suited to the wants of the metropolis of Colorado.
Wolfe Hall, a high school for girls, is situated in Denver. It has a corps
of well qualified instructors. This institution will compare favorably with
similar schools at the East. The pupils are thoroughly trained in all the
branches of education which fit girls to be accomplished and useful women.
Wolfe Hall is a large brick building; an ornament to Denver, and a credit
to the Territory. Of this school, Bishop Randall is the rector, and resides
in the institution.
GOLDEN CITY.
Calvary Church is a substantial brick edifice, built in the Gothic style
of architecture, with an open timber roof, and windows of stained glass.
The Rev. Wm. J. Lynd is rector of the parish, which was organized about
four years ago.
Jarvis Hall is a collegiate school, located about a mile from Golden, on
the road to Denver. This institution is designed to prepare boys for college,
and to fit them for the business pursuits of life. It has three departments:
grammar, classical and scientific. The buiMing is of brick, eighty-three
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 135
by tliirty-tliree feet, tliree stories, with a tower. On a line with the hall,
and about 100 feet from it, is another brick edifice, and of similar style of
architecture, forty by thirty feet, having three stories, with a tower, and is
to be used for purposes connected with a school of mines. The location of
this college is not surpassed for beauty and grandeur of natural scenery, and
for purity of atmosphere, by any institution in the land. With hills and
mountains within easy reach, it affords to the boys uncqualcd facilities for
that physical exercise which develops the muscles and promotes Jiealth. To
boys who are affected with bronchial trouble, or disease of the lungs, in its
incipient state, or asthmatic complaints, this school affords the rare opportu-
nity of securing the recovery of health, without sacrificing the educational
period of life. Jarvis Hall has an able faculty, of which Bishop Kandall is
the head.
St. Paul's Church, Central City, was organized in the early settlement
of the Territory. The church has been recently enlarged. A parish school
is maintained'undcr the supervision of the rector, the Rev. Jos. M. Turner.
Measures have been taken to establish a hospital under the auspices of the
church.
Christ Parish, Nevada City, of which the Rev. Francis Byrne is rector,
has a neat church edifice, which was erected about four years ago.
There are fine churches at Idaho and Empire City. In Georgetown, a
church is nearly completed, and will be soon consecrated.
St. Peter's, at Pueblo, is a comfortable, commodious church edifice.
Here also is St. Peter's Institute, a classical school, of which the rector of
the parish, the Rev. Samuel Edwards, is principal.
At Littleton, a church is in the course of erection, and is to be completed
on the first of March.
METHODIST CHURCH.
As usual, the earliest history of Colorado found the pioneering Metho-
dist preacher, whose seed-sowing has produced the harvest of a large and
flourishing church. We give a few historic and statistical items. The
Kansas conference organized a district here early in the settlement of the
Territory, and fully su-pplied the general demands of the work with preach-
ers. In proper succession, and with commendable increase, the work went
on in that form until in July, 1863, Rev. Bishop Ames organized the Rocky
Mountain conference (the name was changed in 1864: to the Colorado con-
ference). The preaching force appointed that year was composed of two
presiding elders, and six preachers in charge of circuits and stations. In
the changes since then, all the names of that list have disappeared from the
present list of appointments but one, John L. Dyer, familiarly known as
Father Dyer. This old storm-hardened veteran labors as heroically and suc-
cessfully as ever for his Divine Master.
Societies were organized at Denver, Golden, Boulder, Central, Black
Hawk, South Park, Blue River, California Gulch, Colorado City and Pueblo,
with a membership of 273. Ten Sunday schools were also reported, with
an average attendance of 520. One church worth §300, and one parsonage
worth $400, were reported. The little chapel in which this conference was
held, was situated on the west bank of Cherry creek, facing Larimer street.
It was carried away in the flood of 1864.
13G ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Seven annual sessions of the Colorado conference have been held, with
a steady increase of preachers and members from year to year. At its
or<ranization, only Colorado Territory made its limits, but now Wyoming
and New Mexico are embraced within its boundaries. It is our intention,
however, only to make a statement of Colorado Methodism in this artide.
There are few settlements of any importance that are not included in the
circuit system of this church, and few country school-houses in which the
Methodist itinerant does not occasionally or regularly preach. Societies and
Sunday schools are now organized in every considerable settlement. The
membership reported at the'last session of the conference, held in Pueblo,
June, 1870, was as follows: In full communion, 540; on probation, 173;
total, 713; twenty-five Sunday schools, with an attendance of 1,647; four-
teen churches, worth 076,000; five parsonages, worth $6,100.
We give now, for the general information of our readers, and for the
special convenience of strangers and new comers, an outline of each society's
history where church buildings have been erected :
DENVER.
The chapel, to which allusion has been made, was rented in 1863, and
fitted up very neatly and comfortably for church use, and was occupied by
the society until the flood of 1864. Services were then held in the Denver
Theatre, until the fine edifice, now occupied, was dedicated. This building,
which for beauty inside and out is not excelled in church architecture west
of the Mississippi, was begun under the pastorate of llev. Oliver A. Williard,
during the summer of conference organization. It was dedicated in the
spring of 1865, under the pastorate of Rev. Geo. Richardson, Mr. Williard
being presiding elder. The cost of this church was about §21,000. Its
pastors have been Gr. Richardson, W. M. Smith, 13. T. Vincent, and J. L.
Peck, the present pastor. The records now exhibit a membership of 150,
and an average of Sunday school attendance of 22b. A fine brick parson-
age was erected in the early part of 1870.
CENTRAL.
The services of this society were held in Lawrence hall and the court
room, until the autumn of 1868, when, through the labors of Rev. G. H.
Adams, the large stone church which now adorns this mountain city was so
far completed as to admit the congregation into its lecture room. This
building, though of plainer architecture than the church of Denver, is yet
not second to it in appropriate appearance, and is a commanding and beauti-
ful structure. Its cost, when completed, will exceed $20,000. The pastors
at Central, since the organization of the conference, have been B.T.Vincent,
W. A. Amsbary, Gr. 11. Adams and W. D. Chase, who was recently trans-
ferred from New York State, and is now in charge. The membership of
the church is now about 100; Sunday school, about 150.
BLACK HAWK.
The regular services of this society were held, in 186.3-4, in a hall over
a billiard saloon. A good brick building was then secured for several years.
In 1868, under the labors of Rev. G. W. Swift, a good, substantial building
of bnck and stone was begun. It was so constructed that the present room
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 137
may be the basement of a large and fine church, when the society may be
able, in the future, to build it. It was finished and dedicated under the
pastorate of Rev. G. Wallace. Cost, about 8-4,000. The pastors have been
B. T. Vincent, O. P. McMains, W. W. Baldwin, G. H. Adams, G. W.
Swift, and G. Wallace, the present pastor. The membership is about thirty,
and the Sunday school averages an attendance of sixty. Nevada is under
tlie care of this pastor.
GEORGETOWN,
Very early in the history of Georgetown an occasional sermon was
preached, in some private dwelling, by preachers in adjoining circuits. Beg-
ular services were established there in 1866-7, and halls were hired until, in
1868, a beautiful frame church was built and dedicated under the pastorate
of Bev. G. 3Iurray, at a cost of about §8,000. The pastors have been Geo.
Bichardson, Geo. Murray, and Isaac H. Beardsley, the present pastor. The
membership is sixty-three; the Sunday school about 100.
GOLDEN CITY.
A neat brick chapel was built here in 1S68, under the pastorate of Bev.
B. T. Vincent, costing a little upwards of 83,000. Its plan, as that of Black
Hawk, is to be built upon at some future duy, the present structure being so
arranged as to be the lecture room of the final structure. A very fine build-
ing is in contemplation, and, with the present promise of rapid growth of
Golden, it is hoped the entire building will be, ere long, completed. Th^
pastors here have been B. C. Dennis, 0. A. Willard, I). W. Scott, W. M.
Smith, B. T. Vincent, P. Peterson, E. C. Brooks, and F. C. Millington, the
present pastor, lately transferred from the State of New York. The mem-
bership is about fifty; Sunday school, 100.
COLORADO CITY.
A church worth §2,000 was built here in 1867, and a flourishing society
exists. Within the same circuit, at a point on Monument creek, another
neat church has just been dedicated, costing about 81,200. The pastors on
this circuit have been J. L. Dyer, George Murray, 0. P. McMains, and W.
F. Warren, who is now in charge. The membership is about sixty; Sunday
schools, in both churches named, average an attendance of about 100.
PUEBLO.
A good adobe church was erected here in 1869, under the pastorate of
Rev. 0. P. McMains. Its value is upwards of 8-1,000, and it is of very cred-
itable appearance. The pastors of circuits, including Pueblo, since 1863,
have been W. H. Fisher, C. H. Kirkbride, and 0. P. McMains, the present
pastor. Membership about fifteen; Sunday school averages an attendance
of fifty.
CANON CITY'.
A church and parsonage block is owned here by the Methodist society,
and valued at 82.500. The pastors have been W. H. Fisher, P. J. Smith,
(leo. Murray, W. M. Smith, and R. A. Hoffman, a late transfer from Ohio,
;tnd the present pastor. The membership is about thirty; Sunday school,
about fifty.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
FAIR PLAY.
Now called South Park City. This and aa adjoining town have Metho-
dist chapels, valued at $1,500. J. L. Dyer was the itinerant of this region
for many years, and W. F. Warren has worked faithfully there for the past
three years. Rev. Jesse Smith is the present pastor. The membership so
varies here in summer and winter, changes owing to the climate and mining
seasons, that we have no accurate report.
RALSTON.
This is a farming region, about six miles north of Golden City. A neat
little frame church was built here under the pastorate of Rev. Jesse Smith,
costing about $1,800. This is the first strictly rural church ever built in
Colorado. The pastors of this circuit have been W. M. Smith, D. W. Scott,
Jesse Smith, and G. W. Swift, the present pastor.
VALMONT.
Here a plain, brick chapel was built some years ago, under the pastorate
of Rev. C. King. The membership is about twenty-five. A good Sunday
school is in existence. The pastors of the circuit have been C. King, O. P.
McMains, W. W. Baldwin, R. Van Valkenburg, and R. W. Bosworth. who
was transferred here since the last conference, to take pastoral charge of this
place and Boulder.
MILL CITY
Has a small, unfinished chapel, built, under the direction of Rev. G. Rich-
ardson, in 1866-7. This place has been included in the Empire and Idaho
circuit.
Projects are in hand for building at Boulder, Idaho, Nevada, Littleton,
and Trinidad; and in other places the question of church building is being
raised.
The presiding elders of the Methodist Church in Colorado have been
as follows: 0. A. Willard, W. B. Slaughter, W. M. Smith, J. L. Dyer, Geo.
Murray, and B. T. Vincent. The last two are at present in charge of the
districts. The work is undergoing constant enlargement. A District jMin-
isterial Association and Sunday School Institute are in active existence in
the Denver district.
CATHOLIC CHURCH.
Before the organization of the Territory the churches, in what is now
Colorado, were under the jurisdiction of the Right Rev. Bishop Miege, of
Leavenworth, Kan. Bishop Miege transferred his jurisdiction to Bishop
Lamy, of Santa Fe, who retained the charge until 1868, at which time
Bishop Joseph P. Machebeuf, formerly Vicar General of the Territory, was
appointed Bishop of Colorado and Utah, and assumed the charge, which he
now retains.
In 1860, Bishop Machebeuf and Father John B. Raverdy came to the
Territory as missionaries. They both had charge of the whole Territory for
nearly three years, without any clerical assistance. When they came to
Denver there was no church, but there was one in course of erection, which
was soon completed and occupied.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 139
Early ia 18G0 a mission was organized in Central City, a most beautiful
location selected, a frame chapel built, which was attended, every two weeks,
from Denver. In 1863 a permanent pastor was appointed, and preparations
have been made for schools and a hospital under the care of the Sisters of
Charity.
In Georgetown a most commanding and central block was secured, some
improvements made, and a church is now being built; and a permanent
pastor will soon be appointed.
In Boulder county, on South Boulder creek, a beautiful farm has been
secured for the benefit of the church, a monthly visit made to the Catholic
settlement, and a church will soon be erected for their accommodation.
At Colorado City and Pueblo good locations have been selected, and a
church will be built, during the spring of 1871, at Pueblo. At Trinidad,
Calebra, Costilla and Conejos, in San Luis park, churches have already been
erected and parishes organized.
In Golden City a neat frame church was erected, in 1866, on a fine block
generously donated by Hon. W. M. Loveland and Judge Johnson. Prepara-
tions are also made for schools, etc.
In the southern part of the Territory, where there are from lO.OUO to
12,000 Catholics (mostly Mexicans), four parishes have been organized and
seven priests appointed to attend to their spiritual wants.
The diocese of the Bight Kev. Bishop Machebeuf includes Colorado and
Utah. His residence is at Denver. The church at Denver is in charge of
the Bev. Father McGrath ; that at Central City in charge of the Bev. Father
John B. Baverdy; and the one at Salt Lake is presided over by the Bev.
Father John B. Foley.
SCHOOLS.
St. Mary's Academy, under the direction of the Sisters of Loretto, was
established in 1864. The property of the institution comprises one and a
half blocks of ground on California street, between E and F streets, Denver.
When this property was purchased there was located on it a building — a
private residence. Since that time the Sisters have constructed a large brick
building, which was partially destroyed by fire in April, 1869, and rebuilt
the same year, with a third story, with capacity to furnish ample accommo-
dations for thirty boarders, and will be further enlarged to meet the wants
of this rapidly-growing Territory. There are at present, at the school,
thirteen Sisters, who have charge of all the departments. Every branch of
education usually included in a seminary course, with the modern languages,
is taught at this school. This institution has been liberally patronized by
all classes, and is amongst the first in the Territory.
Another flourishing school was established, last spring, at Trinidad,
under the care of five Sisters of Charity; and two more such schools will be
opened, during the spring of 1871, by the same Sisters, in Conejos and
Costilla, in San Luis park.
PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH.
The first Presbyterian church, of Denver, was organized December 15,
1861, in the International Hall, on Ferry street. It is now located on F
street, between Lawrence and Arapahoe streets, and is a substantial brick
building, valued at 88,000. Number of members, fifty-five.
140 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
Officers.— J. Q. Charles, W. F. McClelland, elders. J. Q. Charles,
J. W. Horner, J. E. Estabrook, J. Moncrief, 11. -11. Hamilton, trustees.
W. H. Hubbard is superintendent of the Sunday school; average attend-
ance, 112; volumes in library, 100.
The stated supplies of this church, since its organization, have been as
follows: Rev. A. S. Billinesley, December 15, 1861, to 18—; Rev. A. R.
Day, March 14, 1863, to>cbruary 10, 1865; Rev. J. B. McClure, Octo-
ber 1, 1865, to November 1, 1867; Rev. A. Y. Moore, March 15, 1868,
to May 15, 1868. Rev. E. P. Wells, the present pastor, entered upon the
discharge of his duties November 12, 1868.
PUBLIC SCHOOLS.
The public school system of Colorado is similar to that of other Terri-
tories and the States. The people are alive to educational interests, and, in
several instances, better and more expensive school buildings have been
erected than can be found in Eastern towns containing twice as many inhab-
itants. Many portions of the Territory are yet, unavoidably, without ade-
quate school facilities; but, as a whole, it is better supplied than any
Territory in the Union.
The whole number of school districts is 125; the whole number of
school houses, 100; school enumeration, 7,539; and the number of pupils
attending, 4,067.
There are high schools organized at Denver, Central City, Black Hawk,
Burlington, Boulder City, Pueblo and Greeley. The high school building
at Central City is built of stone, is a model of architectural taste, and, for
commodiousness and adaptation to its purpose, would do credit to the most
enterprising and fastidious New England city. It has recently been com-
pleted, at a cost of about S20,000. Another, at Black Hawk, cost nearly
§15,000; and, at Denver, arrangements are in progress to erect a building at
a cost of $40,000. At the latter place the authorities are now occupying
the Colorado Academy building; but it is inadequate to the wants of the
place, and must soon be superseded by an edifice which will fully accommo-
date the growing wants of the town, and correspond with its enterprise and
intelligence in other directions.
The school fund of 1870, raised by a special school tax in the various
counties, amounts to $61,881.27. There is, as yet, no Territorial fund,
although the usual reservation of school lands (sections sixteen and thirty-
six in each township) has been made by Government, so that, as soon as the
Territory shall have become a State, this will largely augment her ability to
foster means of public education.
There is a territorial superintendent of public instruction, and a county
superintendent for each county. These are all elected once in two jears.
The counties are divided into districts, and each district has its board of
three directors, who employ teachers and have general supervision of the
aifairs of the district. These directors are elected annually, ia May.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER.
141
The following is a list of the territorial and county superintendents of
Colorado, for 1871-2:
AY. C. LoTHROP, Territorial Superintendent of Puhlic Instruction.
COUNTY SUPERINTENDENTS.
COUNTT.
SUPERINTENDENT.
POST OFFICE.
W. C. Lothrop
Denver
Bent
Las Animas City
Valmont
A. R. Day
Clear Creek
Wm. M. Clark
Georgetown
Frank Sager
Loma
(No report.)
Cherry Creek
Colorado City
Canon City
Central City
El Paso
Fremont
W. R. Fowler
Gilpin
James Mills
M. A. Stewart
St. Mary's
•Jefterson
JI. C Kirhy
Golden City
Granite
Big Thompson
Las Animas
Jacob Beard
Trinidad
I'ark
J. Marshal Paul
Fair Play
Excelsior
Pueblo
John Cox
R. P. Powell
Sagauche
Delaware City
IT B Turner
SOCIETIES.
MINERS AND MECHANICS INSTITUTE, CENTRAL.
In the winter of 1866, the leading citizens of Central concluded, in view
of the rapid growth of their city, to organize, if possible, a public library
and literary institute. The want of such an institution was felt keenly by
the intelligent portion of the community, and the initial movement, which
has already brought about most favorable results, received the prompt sup-
port of all classes.
The first systemized action in the matter was taken at a public meeting,
convened by a general call in the newspapers of the day, which was held on
the 13th day of December, 1866. The attendance at this first meeting, for
the public discussion of the advantages of a public library and the adoption
of proper measures to speedily secure the desired object, was large, and a
lively interest in the matter was manifested by all present. The following
well known gentlemen were called upon to act as officers of this gathering:
President, H. B. Morse; Vice-Presidents, L. C. Tooles, A. J. Vanderen,
Charles W. Mather, George T. Clark; Secretary, Frank C. Young.
142 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The matter under consideration was discussed generally, and a copy of
resolutions, urging the necessity of immediately organizing and liberally sus-
taining a public library, was submitted by W. R. Thomas. These were suit-
ably amended and adopted. It was further resolved that a committee of
seven be appointed to draft a constitution and by-laws, to be submitted to a
subsequent meeting, which was to take place one week from that date.
At the time specified, December 20, 18G6, the friends of the organization
again assembled, with H. B. Morse in the chair. The committee on con-
stitution and by-laws reported, they believed, that to effect a regular organi-
zation, the granting of a charter was the first object to be accomplished;
and, that in view of this, they had drawn up a petition to be submitted to
the Territorial legislature, then in session. This petition was read before
the meeting, and became the subject of spirited debate. Certain portions
of it were extremely objectionable, and on motion of George T. Clarke, the
committee was instructed to present a revised report of the proceedings at
the next meeting. This was done; the charter was obtained; constitution
and by-laws adopted, and the following gentlemen elected as first officers of
the Miners and Mechanics Institute, at a meeting held in Washington Hall,
January 21, 1867:
President, G. P. Buchanan; Vice-President, S. P. Lathrop; Secretary,
Frank C. Young; Treasurer, J. H. Goodspeed; Librarian, C. E. Sherman.
This brief history of the initial steps in the organization of the institute
conveys but a poor idea of the magnitude and importance of the work accom-
plished by the sturdy friends of science and literature, who have been active
members of this association. But a visit to the institute to-day, and an exam-
nation of its shelves, laden with nearly 1,000 volumes of carefully selected
and well bound works on art, science and literature (besides numerous monthly
journals, and weekly and daily periodicals), and its rare and costly cabinets of
ores, minerals, fossils, petrifactions and specimens of the precious metals, will
give even the casual observer abundant evidence of the earnest and effective
manner in which the live members of this association have conducted their
arduous labors.
The charge of the affairs of the institute has always been entrusted to
officers chosen from among our most intelligent and energetic citizens. In
looking over the records, we find that James Burrell, Samuel Cushman,
Hugh Butler, George T. Clark, A. J. Vanderen, Charles E. Sherman,
and many others of Central's prominent citizens, have been especially active
in promoting its welfare. Such efficient aid ensures success. As an assur-
ance to the friends of the institute that its affiiirs are still under the control
of suitable officers, we append the names of those elected at a meeting; held
on the second Monday in October, at the rooms of the institute, in Odd Fel-
lows building, Lawrence street:
President, Samuel Cushman; Vice-President, Thomas J. Campbell; Sec-
retary and Librarian, E. E. Burlingame; Treasurer, T. H. Potter.
ST. JAMES LIBRARY ASSOCIATION, CENTRAL.
This library contains over 400 well bound volumes, besides journals and
periodicals, comprising many valuable literary, scientific and religious works,
selected with great care, by persons thoroughly qualified for the task, both
by natural tastes and educational attainments.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 143
The rooms of the association are in the basement of the Methodist church
building, on Eureka street, Central, and are tastefully fitted up and furnished
by the association for library purposes exclusively, and are a very pleasant
place of resort for lovers of good literature.
The character of the works in St. James' library are of a high order,
and, though not numerous, are exceedingly valuable, and the affairs of the
association are in a prosperous condition.
The library is conducted on the circulating plan, but is open to visitors
at all seasonable hours. The present officers are:
President, D. C. Collier; Vice-President, Hal. Sayre; Treasurer, A. J.
Yanderen; Secretary and Librarian, I. W. Stanton.
TERRITORIAL LIBRARY.
The valuable collection of books, public documents, and mineral speci-
mens which constitute this library are kept in suitable rooms in Denver, in
charge of the Territorial Librarian. The collection of works for this insti-
tution commenced early in the history of the Territory, and a librarian (W.
S. Walker) was appointed in 18G2. The duties of this librarian, and the
management of the library, are defined in chapter fifty-two of the Revised
Statutes; and a general supervision of the institution becomes a part of the
duties of the Territorial Legislature.
To give a fair exhibit of the condition of the library, and the number of
volumes contained therein, we publish the report of a committee of the
Legislature, who examined the library in 1870:
"Denver, Colorado Territory, February 9, 1870.
' lion. Geo A Hinsdale^ President of the Legislative Council:
"Sir: Your committee, to whom was referred the examination of the
Territorial Library, beg leave to submit the following report:
" We find the total number of volumes in the library to be 2,506, as
follows :
Books catalogued, on hand and accounted for 891
Books catalogued, but not accounted for 137
United States public documents (bound) 627
Statute laws, journals, reports, etc., of d:trerent States and Territories (bound).. i'l~
United States public documents (pamphlet form) 127
Laws and documents of diCFerent States and Territories (pamphlet form) 235
Miscellaneous books not heretofore catolosrued 62
"All of which is respectfully submitted
"J.C.Hughes, ')
J. W. Nesmith, V
J. M. Yelasquez, 3
J. W. Nesmith, V Committee."
Owing to the interest taken in this important public institution by the
present efficient librarian, Geo. T. Clark, valuable additions have been made
to the library since the date of this report.
The rooms are open to the public generally, and volumes can be taken
out, by complying with the prescribed rules.
144 KOCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTOKY
PICKENS CI.UB.
This is a literary society, organized at Georgetown in the spring of ISTO.
hv a few of the citizens of that beautiful city, who have, evidently, amoug
thoir nuuibors some true lovers of the artistic and beautiful, or they would
not have invoked the spirit of that great master of the human he;\rt, Charles
Dickens, to preside over their deliberations.
Althou;:h we sojourned in Georgetown some weeks, in the fall of ISTv),
we have no data concerning the society, except the list of officers, kindly
furnished by C. A. Hoyt, Esq., one of the club. They are as follows:
II. C. Chapin, President; C. 0. Marble, Vice-Pre'sident; K. S. Morri-
son, Secretary; E. C. Parmelee. Treasurer.
Executive Committee. — C. A. Iloyt, Chairman ; C. A. Martine, F. A
Pope.
COLORADO AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.
This organization, which has for its object the advancement of all Terri-
torial industries, as well as agricultural, is one of the most important institu-
tions of Colorado, and h:xs the hearty encouragement and support of all
public spirited citizens.
The first annual exhibition of the society was held in Denver, in the fall
of 1SG6, and yearly exhibitions have been holden regularly from that time
to the present. It has exerted a ]>owerful aud wide-spread influence in pro-
moting all industries, and has aided efficiently in increasing the material
wealth aud general prosperity of the Territory.
The steady and healthy growth of this society, and the never-failing
interest it has excited among all classes, is one of the best evidences of the
real solid basis upon which the superstructure of Colorado industries are
founded, aud insures the future greatness and wealth of her people.
The grounds and buildings of the society are located about two miles
from the centre of Denver, adjoining the grounds of the Ford Park Associ-
ation. The location is well chosen, and the grounds and buildings admirably
suited for the purpose of exhibiting stock, agricultural and mineral products,
manutacturers' material of every description, and the works of art, which
display the taste and cultivation of our educated citizens.
The exhibit of 1S70 surpassed all others in the quantity and quality
of the material displayed, and was attended by all the leading citizens of
the Territory, and vast numbers of people from all parts of this and adjoin-
ing Territories and States. The prizes awarded to those whose products
excelled, were appropriate and valuable, and the general management of ■
affairs, in all respects, satisfactory to all interested. The success of this
society, in every way, is beyond doubt, and its sphere of usefulness will be
constantly enlarged.
Although Colorado has only commenced her second decade — and her
limus reach far out into the unexplored regions of the Great West, and
embrace the Great Desert and inaccessible mountains — still her progress in
the arts, agriculture, stock raising and manufacturing, as exemplified" by tl;.-!
exhibitions of this society, gives her an enviable position amon^ the politicnl
divisions of the country west of the Missouri, and insure her from the rival-
ship of any adjoining districts.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 145
The following is a list of the officers and directors of this society :
Officers of the Association. — Horatio B. Bearce, President; Jos.
W. Watson, Vice-President; Oliver A. Whittemore, Secretary; David A.
Chever, Treasurer; Col. Ralph C. Webster, Chief Marshal.
Executive Committee. — David C. Collier, Peter Magnes, Isaac H.
Batchellor, James M. Wilson, George T. Clark.
Directors. — D. C. Collier, Gilpin county; S. G. Nutt, Jeffijrson county;
J. T. Lynch, Clear Creek county; John S. Wheeler, Weld county; W. B.
Osborn, Larimer county; J, B. Kice, Pueblo county; B. B. Field, Pueblo
county; Anton Schingelholtz, Douglas county; W^illiam Sheppard, Fremont
county; P. M. Housel, Boulder county; Jos. W. Bowles, Arapahoe county;
Ferdinand Meyer, Costilla county; William Craig, Huerfano county; L. S.
Head, Conejos county; W. J. Godfrey, Sagauche county; Samuel Hartsell,
Park county; W. P. Pollock, Summit county; H. H. DeMary, Lake county;
L. Mullin, Greenwood county; Mark B. Price, Bent county.
BOULDER county AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.
Like the parent society, at Denver, this institution has for its object the
promotion of all Territorial industries, and has done its part towards increas-
ing the general wealth of the Territory, by encouraging and fostering all
agricultural, mining and manufacturing enterprises.
Although a youthful organization, it has the the growth and strength of
manhood, and is under the management of gentlemen largely interested in
the welfare of the county, and anxious and able to advance her interests in
every way.
The grounds are finely located near Boulder City, and the buildings sub-
stantially constructed, and well suited to the purpose.
The exhibitions are held yearly, and are largely attended and well con-
ducted.
The usefulness of similar associations is well known in all countries, and
the Boulder County Agricultural Society is not behind any other of its
years, with equal facilities, and is a credit to the county and Territory. We
regret our paucity of statistics concerning this institution, as we are not able
to give its present officers and directors, but know of its general good repu-
tation and prosperity, and feel assured that its growth will be commensurate
with that of the county and Territory.
FORD PARK ASSOCIATION.
The initial measures toward the organization of this association were
inaugurated by William R. and H. F. Ford, who at that time owned a race
track on a part of the ground now belonging to the association. Among
the petitioners for a charter, which was granted by special act of the Terri-
torial legislature, approved January 7, 1867, we find the following names,
which are well and favorably known to the citizens of Denver, and the Ter-
ritory generally : James M. Broadwell, Henry J. Rodgers, Alexander Ben-
ham, Wm. F. Wilder, Charles A. Cook, Fox Diefendorf, Isidor Dietsch,
Isaac H. Batchelder, John Wanless.
A meeting of the corporators for reading and accepting the act of incorpo-
ration was held January 18, 1867, at the house of Ford & Bro., in Denver, at
10
146 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
which the following were present: Henry J. Rodgers, Isidor Dietsch, Charles
A. Cook, James A. Broadwell, Alexander Benham, William F. Wilder, and
Fox Diefendorf, by his attorney, Hiram F. Ford. The act was accepted,
and William F. Wilder was authorized to open books for subscription to the
capital stock of said association, and the entire stock was taken by the fol-
lowing gentlemen: William R. Ford, twenty shares; Hiram F. Ford, twenty
shares; William F. Wilder, ten shares; Charles A. Cook, ten shares; Henry
J. Rodgers, ten shares; Fox Diefendorf, ten shares ;_ Isidor Dietsch, five
shares; Alexander Benham, five shares; J. Bright Smith, ten shares.
William R. Ford was appointed a committee to report by-laws, rules and
regulations for the government of the association, to the next meeting, which
took place January 21, 1867, where ninety shares of the stock of the associa-
tion were represented by the following stockholders: Charles A. Cook,
Isidor Dietsch, Alexander Benham, William F. Wilder, Fox Diefendorf, by
his attorney, Hiram F. Ford, and William R. Ford. The report of the com-
mittee on by-laws, rules and regulations was submitted and approved. The
by-laws, comprising sixteen articles, embraced all the leading features of
similar codes elsewhere; and the rules and regulations — thirty-two articles
and twenty-four rules — were very comprehensive, and contained every sug-
gestion, explanation and direction necessary for the complete government
of a jockey club or racing association of the highest character. No racing
association in America has a better code of laws, or insists upon the observa-
tion of these more rigidly than the Ford Park Association of Denver.
The officers of the association are a president, vice-president, secretary,
treasurer, and three directors. The president, vice-president and directors
compose the board of directors.
The first officers were elected at the meeting held January 21, 1867, and
were as follows: J. Bright Smith, president; Wm. R. Ford, vice-president,
Wm. F. Wilder, secretary; Henry J. Rodgers, treasurer; Isidor Dietsch,
Charles A. Cook, Alexander Benham, directors.
The funds, accruing from the sale of stock and other sources, have been
used to improve the grounds, which are now inclosed with a concrete wall
of considerable height and superior workmanship. The grand stand, stables,
and other buildings are commodious, and well and tastefully finished, and
the track one of the best in America. It is so arranged that it can be flooded
with water, from a neighboring irrigating canal, at any time, and consequently
is free from dust, and is never heavy from the accumulation of mud.
The location of the park is about two miles from the centre of Denver,
near the junction of the Kansas Pacific and Denver Pacific railways, and
is reached by excellent roads from all quarters, and surrounded by scenery
of surpassing beauty and grandeur. At present, the greater portion of the
stock is owned, and the track entirely controlled by the following gentlemen:
John Hughes, David H. Mofi'att, Abram K. Lincoln
TURNERS.
This German society, so well known and so much revered by the children
of the "Fatherland" in every country, has already been firmly established
111 the principal cities of the Territory.
At Denver the Turners are numerous, and their society in a prosperous
condition.
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 147
At Central they have a fine hall, well furnished and fitted up as a gym-
nasim and concert and dance hall, with necessary dressing and withdrawing
roouis. The building, which was formerly an extensive ore mill, was pur-
chased by the society for the sum of $3,000, and additions and improve-
ments have been added at an additional cost of 85,000; and, altogether, the
hall is well adapted to the purposes of the society, and is valuable property,
and under the charge of A. Carstens, who resides on the premises.
The Turners of Central, Black Hawk and Nevada are united in one
society, under the following officers: Charles Steinle, President; E. Gold-
man, Vice-President. Number of members, forty.
MASONIC.
The first lodges of this ancient order, in Colorado, were organized under
charters granted by the Most Worshipful Grand Lodges of Kansas and
Nebraska. In 1861, the matter of the formation of a Grand Lodge of Colo-
rado was freely discussed, and on the 2d of August, of that year, the masters
and wardens of the several lodges in the Territory convened at Golden, in
accordance with previous agreement, and the Grand Lodge of Colorado was
regularly organized, and the following officers duly installed:
J. M. Chivinston, G. M., Gold Hill; S. M. Bobbins, D. G. M., Park-
ville; James Ewing, S. G. W., Parkville; J. M. Holt, J. G. W., Gold Hill;
Eli Carter, G. T., Golden; O. A. Whittemore, G. S., Parkville.
The following lodges were represented in this Convention : Golden City,
No. — ; Rocky Mountain, No. 8, Gold Hill; Summit, No. 7, Parkville.
The first annual communication of the Grand Lodge of Colorado was held
in Denver, December 18, 1861. Returns from the following lodges were
received:
Golden City, No. 1, Golden City, Wm. Train Muir, W. M., number of
members, 18; Summit Lodge, No. 2, Parkville, James Ewing, W. M., num-
ber of members, 31; Rocky Mountain, No. 3, Gold Hill, J. M. Holt, W. M.,
number of members, 13.
These lodges, with a total membership of 62, represented Masonry in
Colorado, in 1861. At the ninth annual communication, held at Denver,
September 28, 1869, returns were received from the following lodges, all in
' Colorado :
Golden City, No. 1, Golden City; Nevada, No. 4, Nevada; Denver, No.
5, Denver; Central, No. 6, Central; Denver, No. 7, Denver; Empire, No. 8,
Empire; Black Hawk, No. 11, Black Hawk; Washington, No. 12, George-
town; El Paso, No. 13, Colorado City; Columbia, No. 14, Boulder City;
Mt. Moriah, No. 15, Canon City; Pueblo, No. 17, Pueblo; Valmont, under
dispensation, Valmont; Germania, under dispensation, Denver.
Total number of members 717
Entered Apprentices 71
Fellow Crafts 18
Grand total 806
These figures demonstrate the growth and prosperity of Masonry in the
Territory.
J 48 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The following is a list of the officers of the Grand Lodge, regularly chosen
and duly installed at this meeting : ^ ^ ,, ^ t^ » ,
Henry W. Teller, G. M.; Richard Soporis, D. G. M.; W. D. Anthony,
S. G. W. ; Hal Sayr, J. G. W. ; Wm. W. Ware, G. T. ; Ed. C. Parmelee, G. S.
We have no data from the tenth annual communication of the Grand
Lodge, held at Central, in September, 1870, nor statistics from but few of
the subordinate lodges.
The following is all the data at hand :
Nevada Lodge, No. 4. — List of officers of Nevada Lodge, No. 4, F. &
A. M., for the ensuing year: Isaac N. Henry, W. M.; William Emperor,
S. W.; W. S. Haswell, J. W.; J. F. Phillips, Treasurer; J. W. Ratliff,
Secretary; Wm. M. Finley, S. D.; James Trezise, J. D.; Michael Braun
and W. R. Hyndman, Stewards; J. K. Jones, Tyler.
Denver Lodge, No. 5, at its regular communication, held December
17, A. L. 5870, elected and installed, for the ensuing year, the following
officers: G. G. Brewer, W. M.; F. M. Danielson, S. W.; J. Lambert,
J. W.; Phil. Trounstine, Secretary; George Tritch, Treasurer; ,
S. D.; L. McCarty, J. D.; A. T. Randall, Tyler.
Denver Union Lodge, No. 7, elected and installed the following, as
officers for the ensuing year, on the 24th of December, A. L. 5870: W. D.
Anthony, W. M.; E. A. Willoughby, S. W.; M. A. Rogers, J. W.; E. G.
Matthews, Secretary; Frank Palmer, Treasurer; , S. D.;
, J. D.; A. T. Randall, Tyler.
Black Hawk Lodge, No. 11. — The following is a list of officers for
the ensuing year: Geo. E. A. Coggdon, W. M.; Geo. F. Simmons, S. W.;
H. P. Cowenhoven, Treasurer; S. H. Bradley, Secretary; Geo. Wells, S. D.;
Robert Bushney, J. D.; Jacob Tullman and P. Willey, Stewards; J. M.
Sutter, Tyler.
Laramie Lodge, No. 18, A. F. & A. M., have elected the following
officers for the ensuing year: J. H. Hayford, W. M.; T. J. Dayton, S. W.;
G. W. Ritter, J. W.; Gustave Schuler, Treasurer; J. E. Gates, Secretary;
Martin Follet, S. D.; A. T. Williams, J. D.; J. S. Pfeiffer and Walter Sin-
clair, Stewards; W. W. Smithson, Tyler.
The masons of Greeley have been granted a dispensation for Occidental
Lodge, No. — , but have not, at this date, December 28th, been instituted.
The brethren recommended F. L. Childs, for W. M., E. W. Gurley, for
S. W., and H. W. Lee, for J. W. Address E. B. Annis, Secretary.
Chivington Lodge, No. 6, (Central), A. F. & A. M., was chartered
by the Grand Lodge of Colorado, December 11, 1861: Allyn Weston,
W. M.; Thos. J. Brower, S. W.; Henry M. Teller, J. W. At the annual
session of the Grand Lodge, in October, 1868, the name of Chivington was
changed to Central Lodge, No. 6, its present name. The present officers
are: E. C. Beach, W. M.; N. H. McCall, S. W.; Benj. Lake, J. W.; R. C.
Lake, Treasurer; S. I. Lorah, Secretary; Foster Nichols, S. D.; James
Hutchinson, J. D.; Geo. A. Pugh, Tyler.
Central City Chapter No. 1, Royal Arch Masons, was chartered by
the General Grand Chapter Royal Arch Masons, of the United States of
America, March 23, 1863, with the following officers: A. J. Van Deren,
H. P.; Aaron M. Jones, K.; James T. White, S. The present officers are:
Benj. W. Wisebart, M. E. H. P.; H. M. Orahood, K.; John W. Ratliff, S.;
R. C. Lake, C. H.; James V. Dexter, P. S.; A. M. Jones, R. A. C; John
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 149
Best, M. 3d Veil; Benj. Lake, M. 2d Veil; Wm. Fullerton, M. 1st Veil;
Thos. H. Potter, Treasurer; S. I. Lorah, Secretary; Geo. A. Pugh, Sentinel.
ODD FELLOWS.
Previous to the organization of the Grand Lodge of Colorado, at Denver,
in November, 1867, the lodges in the Territory were under charter from
the Grand Lodge of Kansas. The rapid increase in the number of Odd
Fellows in the Territory, in 1867, and the remoteness of the Grand Lodge
of Kansas, made the necessity of the above organization apparent, and active
measures for its completion were inaugurated. Dr. R. G. Buckingham, of
Denver, an active and honored member of the order, was prominent in this
desirable movement, and was ably aided in his efforts by leading members
from all parts of the Territory. The elective officers of the first Grand
Lodge of Colorado were the followinir:
R. G. Buckingham, M. W. G. W., ^Denver; H. E. Hyatt, R. W. D. G. M.,
Nevada; John Chamord, R. W. G. W., Denver; John W. Ratliff, R. W.
G. S., Nevada; Herman H. Heiser, R. W. G. T., Central; Clarence P.
Elder, G. R. to G. L. U. S., Denver.
The following are the officers of the Grand Lodge, regularly chosen and
duly installed at the session of October, 1870, at Denver:
C. H. McLaughlin, M. W. G. M., Denver; J. H. Vandeventer, R. W.
D. G. M., Denver; John H. Jay, R. W. G. W., Kit Carson; John W.
Ratliff, R. W. G. S., Nevada; George Wirth, R. W. G. T., Nevada; Omer
0. Kent, G. R. to G. L. U. S., Denver.
The following are the subordinate lodges in Colorado, with number of
members returned to Grand Lodge session, of October, 1870:
Union, No. 1, Denver, number of members, 90; Rocky Mountain, No.
2, Central, number of members, 83; Colorado, No. 3, Black Hawk, number
of members, 78; Denver, No. 4, Denver, number of members, 74; George-
town, No. 5, Georgetown, number of members, 40; Nevada, No. 6, Nevada,
number of members, 48; Canon City, No. 7, Canon City, number of mem-
bers, 23; Pueblo, No. 9, Pueblo, number of members, 35; Boulder, No. 10,
Boulder City, number of members, 39; South Park, No. 11, Fair Play, num-
ber of members, 28; Elder, No. 13, Kit Carson, number of members, 28;
in all, 11 lodges, with 566 members. We have no data from encampments
in the Territory, nor have we the names of the present officers of the sub-
ordinate lodges. The order owns valuable property in the principal cities
of the Territory, and is financially prosperous. Its condition, in regard to
number of lodges and members, is illustrated by the above statements. The
high character and great usefulness of this order in the Territory, require
no comment here — these are universally acknowledged.
GOOD TEMPLARS.
This most excellent and well known order is represented in Colorado by
the Grand Lodge of the Territory, and sixteen subordinate lodges, from
which we have no statistics. The number of lodges at this time must be
more numerous, but we have no recent data, on account of the remoteness of
our place of publication from the Territory.
150 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
The first annual session of the Grand Lodge was in 1867, and since that
time the growth of the order, in number of members and general usefulness,
has been ' uninterrupted, and it 'already includes among its members the
greater number of our prominent citizens, both male and female.
The efforts of this order to reclaim the victims of intemperance, and
place about them influences likely to prevent further attacks from this insid-
uous monster, are well known and deservedly commended by all respectable
members of society.
At the third annual session of the Grand Lodge of Good Templars, which
was held in Georgetown, in September, 1869, the number of members of
Colorado lodges amounted to 1,051. Since that time they have increased
steadily, and no doubt the actual number of the order at present is not far
short of 1,500.
The interest taken in this order, which has for its object the alleviation
of the worst form of human suffering, by the best citizens of Colorado, is
strong evidence of the high moral tone of public character, generally, in the
Territory.
We regret our inability to give complete statistics of the different lodges
of this order, but it has a strong hold in the Territory, and its success is
beyond question.
GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC.
This military order is represented by posts regularly organized, with
duly installed officers, in all the prominent towns and cities in the Territory.
Among the members of this order are most of the veterans of the " Grand
Army of the Union" in Colorado, and consequently many of the best and
truest citizens, and warmest lovers of human liberty in the country.
We have no statistics of the order that would be interesting to the gen-
eral reader.
OTHER SOCIETIES.
There are scattered throughout our cities and villages, different charita-
ble societies, base-ball clubs, and national associations, which are represented
by goodly numbers of citizens of all classes; but space, as well as a lack of
accurate and recent data, forbids particularization.
MILITARY POSTS
Colorado is in the military department of Missouri, division of Missouri,
with Gen. John Pope, commanding department, and Gen. Phil. Sheridan,
commanding division.
The posts and their commanders are as follows: Ft. Lyon, Maj. R. S.
Dodge Third Infantry, commanding; Ft. Reynolds, Capt. H. B. Bristol,
i^iith Infantry, commanding; Ft. Sedgwick,
Capt. H A. Elderkin. C. S., U. s! A., purchasing C. S., is stationed at
Denver, Col.
There are no hostile Indians in the Territory at present, and the number
or troops is inconsiderable, and their duties confined to escort and camp and
garrison duty. ^
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 151
MINES AND MINING.
INTRODUCTION.
The leading features of the past history of mining in Colorado are not
unlike those of other countries where the precious metals have been discov-
ered. When the key-notes of gold discoveries were sounded throughout
the length and breadth of the country, by Green Russell and his party, there
was the usual rush to the region, of men filled with high hopes and vague
visions of untold wealth. The greater portion of these gold hunters had no
idea, whatever, of the manner in which gold occurs in mineral districts; not
the slightest knowledge of practiciil mining, and but a limited conception of
the difficulties to be overcome, and the dangers to be encountered before any
part of these visions could be realized.
The greater portion of these pioneers were sorely disappointed when they
learned, practically, the exact condition of things, and not a few of them,
vxtterly disheartened and completely cured of the gold fever. These of course
abandoned the country after expending, in comparatively fruitless explora-
tions for the precious metal, all their available means. Others — who receive
due notice elsewhere — still persisted in the search for gold, and yet others,
more determined and adventurous, though partially discouraged and sadly
disappointed, concluded not to return to their Eastern homes unless well
supplied with treasures obtained in some way. These kept up the gold
excitement for their own purposes, until discoveries were made which estab-
lished the existence of gold in paying quantities in their adopted country.
Although the El Dorado of their bright visions was not found, a region
was explored which promised well, and presented to their keen optics a wide
field for successful financial operations. Knowing, from their own experi-
ences, how readily men are controlled by the magic potency of the language
of gold, they made themselves thoroughly conversant with this glittering
vocabulary, and soon became adepts in all the arts used in creating mining
excitements, and experts in mining operations and jobbing in mining stocks.
Deceived, themselves, at the outset, they soon became learned in the
science of deluding others, and never allowed the flames of excitement, kin-
dled by the first Pike's Peakers, to become entirely extinguished. The fact
of the existence of gold in considerable quantities in the gulches, and the
discoveries of many valuable gold mines in the mountains, served the pur-
poses of their speculations admirably, and through the influence these impor-
tant events had upon the public mind, and a series of sharp financial
practices, they managed to bring enough gold to Colorado and their own
pockets to make the country the El Dorado they had pictured. But these
unscrupulous speculators receive due attention elsewhere. Although they
152 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTOR Y
have done a vast amount of injury to the real finances of the country, they
managed to keep money afloat in the Territory at a time when it had not
yet been taken from the mines or the soil, and may have done a small quota
of good while efi'ecting a fearful balance of wrong against our mining inter-
ests. Be this as it may, while these swindling operations were being con-
ducted by sharpers, their blandishments and glittering reports of the richness
of the mineral deposits of the country attracted continued notice to Colorado,
and did their part towards bringing out to the mineral districts capitalists
and miners who had honesty of purpose and suflScient knowledge of their
business to enable them to fully develop the country. The efibrts of this
latter class are apparent everywhere, and the future prospects of our mining
interests never promised so well as at present.
Mining and dealing in mining property in Colorado is now a legitimate
pursuit, and has among those engaged in it the most reliable gentlemen and
the heaviest capitalists of the country. The day has gone by when it is
dangerous to dabble in Colorado mining stocks, and this most important
interest of the country is established upon a firm basis.
There may be hanging around the outskirts of mining camps a few of
the old sharpers, watching for some unwary greenhorn with a few paltry
dollars; but the majority of those who deal in mining stocks, and buy and
sell mining property, are men of business integrity and responsibility, and
deal as honestly and legitimately as any other financial operators in the world.
In a country where good gold and silver veins are as abundant as they
are in Colorado, that class of property will always be in the market, but in
no transfer of property does the buyer stand a better chance to get the value
of his money than when he purchases good gold or silver claims in the mining
districts of Colorado.
In the following chapters we have endeavored to give a fair exhibit of
the mines and mining interests of the Territory, together with some account
of the discovery of the precious metals, and other matters of interest per-
taining to our mining industries. While we know we have failed to do the
subject ample justice, and that there must be many errors and imperfections
in our descriptions, we are confident we have labored honestly and faithfully,
and that our shortcomings are attributable, mainly, to the difficulty of obtain-
ing correct data, and the impossibility of examining for ourselves in every
individual case. We expect the public to consider the difficulties we have
had to contend with, and not judge too harshly of a work, the magnitude
of which can only be understood by persons who have undertaken similar
tasks.
DISCOVERY OF GOLD.
This important event, the results of which have already peopled with
enterprising, energetic and prosperous inhabitants, a vast region, formerly
wild, unexplored and comparatively unknown, is surrounded by mystery and
uncertainty. Spanish documents, filed away in the archives of Spain, if
accessible, might furnish accounts of Spanish adventures and adventurous
Mexican padres, who, accompanied by bands of aboriginees from old Mexico,
pushed their explorations far north to the Missouri river and its tributaries,
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 153
and into the heart of the Sierra Madre mountains, in search of the precious
metals. These might also give data concerning the pioneer miners who dug
out gold from the Spanish Bar diggings on South Clear creek, and nuggets
from the sands of Cache-a-la-Poudre, llalston's creek, and other tributaries
of the Platte; but they are beyond our reach. Vague legendery traditions,
rife with the adventures of old trappers and Indian traders, who enriched
themselves with golden treasures from beyond the vast plains, and far up in
the wild canons of the Rocky Mountains, have been narrated around the
camp fires of western pioneers, since the earliest settlement of these regions,
and many of the Indian tribes who roam the great " American Desert," have
had in their possession nuggets of pure gold, such as are now dug from the
placers of the Territory; but nothing definite is known of the existence of
gold in what is now Colorado, previous to 1852. In the summer of this
year, one Parks, a Cherokee cattle trader, with a party of his tribe, on their
way to California, discovered gold on the banks of a small stream — Ralston's
creek — which empties its waters into "Yasquez" fork of the Platte (now
Clear creek). This was near the mouth of the stream, on the old Cherokee
trail. After this, parties of the tribe prospected at different times along the
tributaries of the Platte in this vicinity, and at length succeeded in obtaining
a small amount of the precious metal. This was carried to Georgia, where
a portion of the tribe still had habitations, and exhibited in the States
through which they passed. Rumor magnified this small quantity of glit-
tering dust to vast sums, and the Western and Middle States were filled
with exaggerated accounts of immense deposits of gold near the head waters
of the South Platte.
The first white man who successfully organized a party to explore these
regions, was W. Gr. Russell, a Georgian, of considerable mining experience
elsewhere. This party, composed of Green Russell and nine others, left
Georgia on the 9th day of February, 1858, and arrived on the head waters
of Cherry creek early in the June following. At Kansas City, Mo., this
party was joined by another, making the whole number who crossed the
plains together, about 100 persons. The Kansas City party became dis-
couraged and returned, after reaching Ralston's creek, but Green Russell's
followers, sustained by entire confidence in their leader, who was fully con-
vinced that gold existed in paying quantities in the Rocky Mountaios, and
along the course of streams which had their origin in these rugged ranges,
continued their explorations, and eventually were rewarded by finding the
long sought for treasure. This was on Dry creek, about five miles from
its confluence with the Platte, and seven miles south of Denver.
The first paying pan of dirt was washed by Green Russell himself, and
yielded 83 in pure gold. The land of gold was discovered, and the realiza-
tion of many a bright vision seemed certain. A portion of the party con-
tinued work at this point until winter set in, taking out from $3 to 810 a
day per hand. Others continued prospecting, and Green Russell returned
in the fall of the same year to Georgia, carrying with him specimens of the
precious metal, and glowing accounts of the richness of this promised land.
The tidings of this important event spread rapidly over the entire continent,
and crossed the great oceans, attracting adventurous spirits from all coun-
tries. Parties assembled at different points along the Missouri river; sup-
plied themselves with all the appliances for gold hunting, gulch minings and
pioneer life, and set out for the "Pike's Peak" gold regions. The wild
154 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
tribes of the plains were startled at the invasion of the pale face, with his
immense trains, laden with supplies and machinery. They questioned and
disputed his right to cross their vast domains, and were answered by the
bullet of deadly revolver or unerring rifle. The red skin could not impede
the march of progress or the hurried stride of the gold hunter, and was
compelled to see cabins of the white man built upon his favorite hunting
grounds, whilst his camp fires no longer illuminated the waters of the Platte,
nor his ponies grazed upon the rich grasses along its border. But the
Indian did not abandon his hunting grounds without a desperate struggle.
Truthful tales of deadly strife with these warriors of the plains are still
related by the hardy pioneers of Colorado; and tourists, in the Rocky Moun-
tains and along the valleys of the Territory, will often meet with quiet,
unassuming settlers, engaged in the peaceful pursuits of mining, farming
or stock raising, who, in the earlier days, participated in bloody frays with
the red men, when nothing but the most determined bravery and unerring
skill in the use of arms, saved them from horrible torture, mutilation, and
agonizing death.
Sufficient of these parties had reached " Auraria" and the other settle-
ments in the vicinity, to make the population about 400, who wintered in the
Territory in 1858-9. Early in the spring, many of these commenced pros-
pecting, and followed up the streams on which gold had been found. The
course of Clear creek prospected better than any other stream, and this was
followed up to a distance of about four miles from the foot-hills, where
extensive placer diggings were worked, and a town of nearly 400 inhabitants
and forty or fifty houses was built in a few weeks, named Arapahoe. This
was soon abandoned, when a town was started a short distance further up
the stream, named "Golden City," which soon became populous and pros-
perous, and remains so to this day. Notwithstanding the numbers hunting
incessantly for the precious metals, but little was found, and consequently
many became completely disheartened, and determined to seek their homes
beyond the plains — fully convinced gold did not exist in paying quantities in
the Pike's Peak country, and thoroughly disgusted with the prospecter's life.
In the way homeward, at ''Auraria," St. Charles, and along their line of
travel across the plains, they met with thousands eu route for the land of
gold, full of bright visions of golden nuggets, and untold treasures, for the
gathering. To these they told the story of failure and disaster — which
was repeated, until the tide of emigration was turned from Pike's Peak gold
regions, and a general stampede made for the Missouri river. Many inci-
dents of the stampede have been related to us, but space forbids their publi-
cation; one will suffice:
Maj. D. C. Oaks, now a citizen of Denver, was amongst the pioneers
of 1858. After satisfying himself that the peculiar advantages of the
country, and the existence of mineral deposits of value, would make it a
desirable place for permanent residence, he returned to the States for the
material to commence the business of supplying lumber to the settlers.
Previous to leaving for the States, he procured a copy of the journal kept
by Green Russell's Georgia party, in the spring and summer of 1858; and
alter his arrival at Pacific City. Iowa, his former home, he, in company with
S. W. Smith, another Pike's Peaker. determined to publish this, with full
descriptions of the best routes across the plains, as a guide-book to emisrrants.
This was done, and the work, with its glowing descriptions of the land of
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 155
gold, was largely circulated amongst the numerous parties then starting from
the Missouri to the Eldorado. These met with the stampeders, and were
horrified at their tales of suffering, failure, and disaster. They then looked
upon Maj. Oaks' book as the author of their misfortunes, and vowed sum-
mary vengeance upon its author. Deadly threats were made, and his effigy
hurried in the sands of the plains, and above it raised a Buffalo bone, with
the following poetical epitaph :
"Here lies the bones of Major Oaks,
The author of this G— D— Hoax."
The innocent cause of all this commotion was, at the time, on his way to
Auraria, with a steam saw-mill — the second in the country — and had the
pleasure of reading his own epitaph. This book was the first work ever
published on Colorado.
While the discouraged gold hunters were on their way to the States,
adventurous pioneers were pushing onward through deep canons and rugged
ravines, to the mountain ranges beyond — still believing the land of gold was
discovered, and untold treasures were within their grasp ! In the front rank
of these bold prospecters were George Jackson and John H. Gregory.
The former found his way up the valley of Clear creek, to the mouth of
Chicago creek, now within the limits of the town of Idaho Springs, Clear
Creek county, and commenced digging and taking out good pay from what
is still known as Jackson's diggings, on Chicago bar. The latter, entirely
alone, pushed forward through the deep ravines of the north branch of Clear
creek, to a point twenty-four miles above " Golden City." Here he commenced
prospecting in a gulch (now Gregory gulch), and from indications, believed
the long sought for treasure was found. Before he could fully satisfy him-
self, a severe snow storm occurred, which prevented further explorations at
that time, and nearly cost him his life. When the storm was over, he was
compelled to return to the valley for supplies. After procuring necessary
provisions, and a companion, Wilkes DeFrees, of South Bend, Ind., he
returned and completed his discovery of gold on the Rocky Mountains — one
of the most important events in the history of the continent. The first
pan of pay dirt, washed by the sturdy pioneer, yielded $4 in gold. The
treasure was found, and wealth, unsurpassed by the fabled riches of eastern
princes, was before him. His excitement was intense. Night came on, but
the realization of his brightest dreams, chased sleep from his eyelids, and
the night was spent in waking dreams of the joys and pleasures his new
found wealth would purchase. Around him were the stern old mountains,
yawning chasms, dense forests, and ferocious wild animals. But he saw
only gold! sparkling, glittering, precious gold! and the rare, beautiful and
pleasurable things that gold would buy.
The date of this discovery — the first discovery of a gold hearing lode in
Colorado — was May 6, 1859. The exact point. Claim No. 5, on Gregory
lode (named after its discoverer), in Gregory mining district, Gilpin county.
Gregory and his coniDanion soon returned to the valley with news of
their success, and S40 in gold, the result of one day's work. This joyous
intelligence swept like a tornado through the towns on the plains; away
across the vast prairies, and over the mighty ocean to all parts of the civilized
world. The tide of emigration from Pike's Peak was turned, and soon
thousands of prospecters were busy with pick and pan in the gulches, and
156 ROCKY MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY
on all the mountains surrounding this favored spot. The work of gold
hunting was pushed forward vigorously, and before the winter of 1859,
much valuable mining property— lodes and placer claims— were discovered
and developed; and in the spring of 1860, there were over 20,000 inhabit-
ants in the Territory. The pioneer miners and prospecters, who are still in
the mining districts, are known as "'59ers," and are proud of the title.
The development of the most extensive and richest gold and silver mining
districts in the world is attributable to these adventurous spirits, and it is
just that their names should be honored in this great country they have
have discovered and developed. By these, privations were endured, dan-
gers braved, and formidable difficulties overcome. Trackless plains, infested
by hordes of hostile savages, were crossed; wild cf.fions explored, and tow-
ering mountains ascended. Many of them may never reap a suitable reward
for all this; but the country and coming generations will owe them a lasting
debt of gratitude, and the monuments of their daring adventures will be
great and prosperous cities, vast fields of ripening grain, huge factories and
reduction works, and a wealthy and happy people.
DISCOVERY OF SILVER.
The actual discovery of the precious white metal, in the Territory, dates,
from the first discovery of gold, as silver exists, to some extent, in all the
gold ores of our metalliferous belts.
The exact time, when ores were pronounced silver bearing, is not gener-
ally known; and in the absence of any published records of this event, we
have taken pains to collect correct data in the matter, and arrive at the
truth as nearly as possible. Many of the important silver lodes of the Ter-
ritory, among these the celebrated "Seaton," in Idaho district, Clear Creek
county, and the Griffith, Turner, and others, in the silver mining districts of
this county, were first discovered and worked for gold only. These yielded
fair pay on the surface, but after any considerable depth was obtained, they
ceased to be profitable and were abandoned or worked deeper, with the hope
of finding more gold at greater depths. The "blossom rock," (quartz
stained with metallic oxides), which indicates the proximity of mineral
deposits, differs but little in gold or silver lodes, and no marked diff'erence
was detected by the earlier prospecters, who had no experience in silver
mining. The ores in these veins, however, differ materially in character
and analysis; but these features were not then understood by Colorado
miners — hence the most valuable silver sulphurets were passed by as worth-
less. A brief history of the Seaton lode, now among the most valuable
silver mines in the world, will illustrate this condition of afiairs.
From Mr. S. B. Womack, one of its discoverers and owners, we learn this
great fissure vein was discovered in July, 1861, and mined during the balance
of that year, and 1862 also, for gold only. After a depth of forty or fifty
feet was reached, the gold saved from the ores by stamp mill process — the only
successful manner of treating ores then adopted in the Territory — was pro-
nounced by bankers and experts almost valueless, and brought only $8 per •
AND COLORADO GAZETTEER. 157
ounce. The metal was nearly white, and received the name of " Seaton
gold." This unlocked for feature in the product of their mine nearly dis-
couraged the owners, and excited considerable interest and much comment
among miners. But few educated assayers were in the country at that
time, and none that had any amount of experience with silver ores, and
consequently a shaft was sunk on this lode to the depth of 278 feet, before
any correct assay was made. About the time the "Seaton gold" was excit-
ing considerable interest, Mr. Holman, a California miner, who had been in
the mines about Black Hawk for over two years, made a trip to California,
during which he visited Nevada, examined silver mines there, and brought
to Colorado with him on his return, specimens of silver ore from the cele-
brated Comstock lode. Mr. Womack had an interview with this gentleman,
examined his specimens of silver ores, and noticed at once their resemblance
to the ores from his mine. Mr. Holman was requested to visit and examine
the Seaton mine, which he did. He noticed similar characteristics in the
ores with those of the Nevada silver lodes, but said they could not be silver
bearing, because there were no silver ores in this Territory. About this
time — the winter of 1861-2, Messrs. Eben Smith and Jerome B. Chaffee, Cali-
fornia miners of considerable experience, also examined the ores, and decided
that from their general appearance they should be very rich, and thought if
a sufficient depth was reached, they would yield largely in gold. The shaft
was then about 150 feet in depth. Nothing was done to prove positively
the existence of silver in the Seaton ores, though Mr. "Womack felt con-
vinced the white precious metal was the leading feature of his mine, and
would eventually make it valuable. His convictions have proved entirely
correct, although the mine was not worked successfully until the fact of
the existence of silver ores in Colorado was demonstrated elsewhere.
In the summer of 1864, Mr. Cooley and Capt. Short, while on a pros-
pecting tour in Summit county, discovered ore in a lode (now the Cooley),
on Glazier mountain, Montezuma mining district. After gathering speci-
mens of this ore, these prospecters visited Central City, Gilpin cou 
