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Library
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ektoh
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^■^i
BOHirS ILLUSTRATED LIBRABY.
ROME,
IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.
VOL. U.
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arr THJ5
VOX. olio
i*^^-im. 1 .■ J ^*i-i.
TEMPLE OF PALLAS.
LOWDON HIJTRY 0 BOHN
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Ai' Ort, I-r.> ^X ^Nf) I
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ROME,
TS THB
NINETEENTH CENTURY;
OOTStTAJSISQ
A COMFLETB ACCOUNT OF THE BUINS OF THE AKCIBNT CITY,
THE BEMAINS 01* THE MIDDLE AGES, AND THE
MONUMENTS OF MODEBN IHMES.
mSMABKB OV THX TIMS AllTS, THX VUnUXS OT SCULnUBlS AND tAJjmVQf
TBS XAHnSU, CUSTOMS, AND XXLIOIOUS CKXIXONIIS,
OT THE MODXSN BOXAIIS.
By.CHAELOTTE a. EATON.
FIFTH EDITION.
TO WHICH IS NOW FIRST ADDED A COMPLETE INDEX,
AND THTBTY-FOUS ENORAVED ILLUSTRATIONS.
IN TWO VOLUMES. — ^VOL. II,
Honlroii :
HBNEY G.^BOHN, YORK STREET, CO VENT GARDEN.
1852.
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M
PBIKTBD BT HABBISO^ AND SOV,
LOHDOM GAZZTTS OFFTCK, ST. MABTIH'S LANK;
AND,
OBCHAKD STKEET, WESTVINSTEK.
^
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CONTENTS
VOLUME THE SECOND.
LSTTER Ll.
-Paintings-* Fresoos — Raphael's Sibyls and Isaiah —
rAogostines — Benedictines — Frescos of Domenichlno and
F-Giudo-^Angel's sapper with St. Ghregory — A. meeting wit^
[l^ Pope — %hiido's Archangel — ^The Capuchins— Trinity de'
I Monti — ^Ruined Frescos — Tomb and Habitation of Clande
' Iioaraine
Pige
LETTER LIL
of Ara Coeli — Steps ascended on the knees by Julius
Cffisar, and the Modem Italians — Theatrical Prsesepio—
General of the Frandacaos — ^Miraculous Bambino— Sacred
Island — iElscnlapius and St. Bartholomew— Indulgences —
Trastevere and Trasteverini — Assassination — Games — Con-
vents— Tasso's Tomb— View of Rome from Mount Jani-
culum — Comparison between Fhgan Temples and Christian
Churches.
16
LETTER LIII.
The Fountains of Rome
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IV CONTENTS.
' LETTER LIV.
Tage
The Vatican Library 3a
LETTER LV.
The Sistine Chapel — ^Tlic Last Jndgment — ^Michael Angclo — ^The
Paolina Chapel — Sala Borgia 39
LETTER LVI.
The Camerc of Raphael 46
LETTER LVIL
The Loggic of Raphael — The Paintings in the Vatican . . 56
LETTER LVIIL
Museum of the Capitol I' • 62
LETTER LIX.
The Paintings and the Palazzo de* Consenratori in the Capitol —
Academy of St. Luke— Raphael's St. Luke— Raphael's Skull 84
LETTER LX.
Roman Palaces — ^Palazzo Dona 91
LETTER LXI.
Palazzo Colonna , . 100
LETTER LXII.
Palazzi Barberini and Sciarra 106
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V
OOKXEITTS. V
LETTER LXm.
Pag«
The F&lazzi Massimi and Spada — Pompey's Statue — ^Palazzo
Costagati — P&Iazzo Mattel 113
LETTEK LXIV.
Fasqnin — ^Palazzo Brasclii— Palazzo Giustiniaiii — ^Pantheon bj
Moonlight — Palazzo Borghese ...... 120
liETTBB LXV.
PyasEzo Lndano ••••••••• 180
LETTER LXVL
Palazzo NuoYO di Torlonia—- Oanuiocim — OaTaUini's CoUection . .198
LETTER LXVII.
Cornni Palace — ^Farnesina and the Faiuese • • • • 137
LETTER LXVIII.
Qairinal Palace — ^Palazzo Albani — Palazzo Poniatowski — Gems —
Staircase of the Palazzo Rnspoli — ^The Nozze Aldobrandini
— Colussal Finger at Palazzo Altieri — Palazzo Stoppani —
RaphaeFs House — Guido's and Guercino's Aurora — Villa
Ludovisi and Palazzo Rospigliosi 14A
LETTER LXIX.
Roman Villas — ^Raphael's Casino and Frescos — Borghese Gardens
— ^Italian and English Gardening — Villas Altieri, Giraud*
Pftmfili, Doria, and Lanti — ^French Academy — Utility of an
English Academy — ^Visit to Monte Mario — ^Villa Madama,
Pastor FidO'— Raphael's Frescos Ig6
a 8
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VI COUTBHTS.
LETTER LXX.
Page
YiUaAlbani ]65
LETTER LXXL
The Pope 173
LETTER LXXIL
Trooeesaaa to the Mmerva— rPalm SandAy • • . . 176
LETTER LXXHL
The Holy Week— The Miflerere— Holy Thunday— ProoeMioii»— ^
The Xnterment of Christ — Sepulchral lUummationB of the
Ftolina Chapel— The Washing of Feet— The Serving at
Tbble — ^The Penitenza Maggiore— The Cross of I^^re— The
Adoration by the Pope and Cardinals— The Relics — Hln-
minated Sepfolchre of Christ at S. Antonio de' Portoghed—
Conoert of Sacred Music 182
LETTER LXXIV.
Good Friday— The Tre Ore— The Pilgrims » . . . 191
LETTER LXXV.
Saturday — Baptism of the Jews — ^An Ordination — ^The Resorrec-
tion — ^BI»3sing the Horses — Confession and Communion 198
LETTER LXXVI.
Sunday— The Benediction 203
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COKSBITTS. Tli
LETTER LXXVII.
Page
Bfaimiiuition of St. Peier*s, and Fireworks from the Castle San
Angelo .208
LETTER LXXVm.
CcniTents— Taking the YeU • . 212
LETTER LXXIX.
Mizades 226
LETTER UOCL
Blessingof the Horses — ^Festas — Italian Manners • . 233
LETTER LXXXI.
The Carnival 252
LETTER LXXXII.
Mnfflc and ihe Drama 260
LETTER LXXXIIL
ImprovTisatori — ^Accademie 272
LETTER LXXXIV.
, Literature and Science 279
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tm COKTIKTB.
LETTER LXXXV.
ChildlnTtli — ^Marriages and Funerals — ^Daneing^— Qame»-*OoiiUMn
Stain — ^Food of the Common People, &c 287
LETTER LXXXVI.
Italian Sculptors — Canora — ^Thorwaldsen — Schadow — Mosaics and
Cameos— Models — Works in the Ftedous Metals, etc.
LETTER LXXXVII.
Egina Marbles 313
LETTER LXXXVIII.
Hadrian's Villa 318
LETTER LXXXIX.
Tivoli Cascades — Qrotto of Neptune — Siren's Cave — ^Temple of the
Sibyl, and other remains of Antiquity — ^Tour of the Hill —
Villa of Meceenas — Lucien Bonaparte's Manufactories — ^Ruined
Villas of the Ancient Romans — Excursion to Horace's Sabine
Farm — ^Mtyestic Ruins of the Aqueducts .... 328
LETTER XC.
Frascati— "^nilas of the Modem Romans — Cato — ^Porcian Meadows
Lake Regillus — Rums of Tusculum — Site of Cicero's ViDa —
New Excavations — ^Tusculum and Pompeii — Lucien Bona-
parte's Villa — Tomb and Villa of Lucullus — ^Monuments to
Cardinal York and the Pretender 34D
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coKTEisrrs.
LETTER XCI.
Grotto Ferrata — Cicero's Tilla — ^Domenichino's Frescos
Pftgt
360
LETTER XCII.
Antiquities of Albano — ^The Emissaiimn of the Alban Lake^
Ruins of Domitiaxi's Villa — ^Tomb of Ascaniiu — ^Tomb of
Pompey — ^Alba Longa — ^Antediluvian Vases . . . 355
LETTER XCIII.
Ascent of the Alban Mount — Camp of Hannibal — ^Triumphal Way
— Convent of Friars — ^Volcanos — ^Lake of Kemi — ^Arida —
Civita Lavinia— Cora — ^Temple of Hercules — Cyclopean Walls 302
LETTER XCIV.
Frascati— -Banditti 373
LETTER XCV.
Banditti 377
LETTER XCVI.
Ostia 3S5
LETTER XCVII.
Sunset on the Bilatinc — ^The Colosseum and the Forum by Moon-
light 38t>
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LIST OF PLATES.
VOLUME II.
Pagt
TiMPLE OF Pallas .... Fronti»pieee.
Vintage Feast at a Villa of Trastevers . . 22
Raphael's Cartoons: Paul Preaching at Athens . 46
Apartment in a Roman Palace . . .91
BoRGHESE Palace ...... 124
Villa Madama ...... 164
A procession of Penitents . . . . 176
Energetic Preaching ..... 196
Carnival; the Corso ..... 256
TlYOLI^ FROM THE CoNVENT OF II SaNTO CoSIMATO • 328
Temple of the Sibyl ..... 330
Cicero's Villa ....... 350
Castel Gandolfo ...... 354
Gensano, on the Lake of Nemi .... 368
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ROME.
LETTER LI.
Chitbghes — PAiirraros — Frescos — Baphaxl's Sibtls
AiTD Isaiah — Attottstikes — BEmfiDicrninBS — Fbeboos
or DoMEiacHiKO akd Guido— Angel's Sttppeb with
St. Q-begobt — ^A Meeting with the Pope — Gutdo's
Abohanoel — The Capuchiks — TbikitI de' Monti—
EtTINED PbESGOS — ^TOMB AND HABITATION OE ClAUDB
LOBBAINE.
Ik my last, I believe, I enumerated the few cliurclies in
Borne that possess anj sculpture worth notice. Those that
are adorned with fine paintings — or paintings that were
once fine — are far more numerous ; but these have generally
suffered so much &om time, neglect, dirt, damp, and smoky
tapers, that their beauties, their colouring, and even, in
many instances, their yeiy design, are no longer discernible ;
80 that you may go fiur to look at altar-pieces which boast
the names of the greatest masters, and, after all, see nothing.
The obscurity of the lateral chapels of the gloomy dd
churches in which they are hidden, no doubt, is one cause
of this ; and many of them might yet be restored, if brought
out to light, and properly cleaned. If the Pope were to do
this, and substitute copies in their place, I cannot conceiye
that he would be thought to have committed any great
crime, eyen by the most orthodox of his subjects. At all
events, the Irench, who were restrained by no scruples
with regard to violating church property, or committing
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2 BOXX.
sacrilege^ and of whose Ioto for the arte we hear so mucliy
and see so little proof^ miffht surely have taken them out of
the churches, and arranged them in a gallerj^ at Borne.
But, unless it weie to ornament Fans, they took no
thought for the preserration of the fragile works of genius.
They have heen the rohbers, but I cannot discover how they
have proved themselves the protectors, of the arts. They
plundered Italv of its. most valuable portable paintingB, but
they left all the untransportable ones to pensh. I dlude
more particularly to the frescos, which, to the disgrace of
the past and present government, are mouldering away on
the mildewed walls of old churches, without a smgle pre-
caution being used to check the rapid progress of tneir
decay.
Neglect and iU-usafi;e are fast obliterating the touches of
departed genius; and those beautiM creations will soon
pass away, whose perfection can never be equalled, and
whose loss can never be repaired.
At the Church of Santa Maria della Face, above the
arches of the nave, are the four Sibyls of Baphael. They
have suffered much &om time, and more, it is said, jfrom
restoration ; yet the forms of Baphael, in all their loveliness,
all their sweetness, are still before us ; they breathe all the
soul, the sentiment, the chaste expression, and purity oi
design, that characterize the works of that immortal genius.
The dictating Angels hover over the head of the gifted
Maids, one of whom writes with rapid pen the irreversible
decrees of Fate. The countenances and musing attitudes of
her sister Sibyls express those feelings of habitual thought*
fulness and pensive sadness, natural to those who are cursed
with the knowledge of futurity, and all its coming evils — of
crimes which they cannot prevent, and calamities they can-
not avert.
In the same church is the Presentation to the Temple,
by Balthasar Peruzzi — ^a fine fresco; but it is extremely
difficult to turn our eyes &om the works of Baphael to those
of Peruzzi.
In the church of the Augustines, is Baphael's inimitable
fresco of Isaiah — ^a work sufficient of itself to have crowned
his name with immortality. The fire and fervour of the
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AVBvvnn ooimnfT. S
mcfphei beam fircmi that intpired and holy eoniiteiiftDee.
Even in force and sublimitr it will bear a comjpariaon with
the Fro^ets and Bibjls which Michael Angelo has left in
the Sistine Chapel; and which, in mj humble opinion, are
bj £ur the best of hia worka^ — at least, of the few that now
exist. It is in fi;eBco that the chief strength and gloiy. of
both these ^^eat masters lie ; and those who hare omy seen
Baphael's oil paintings, (even the Transfiguration itself^)
can form but a very inadequate idea of his transcendent
powers.
• In the convent adjoining the Church of St. Augustine^
there is an excellent library, containing upwards of one
hundred thousand volumes, open to the public ; I mean, of
course, the male part of it.
* This convent, hke every other, lost its rich possessions at
the arrival of the French, and will never regain them. But
the Augustine monks, to whom it belongs, stiU possess some
little property. They make a great deal more by begging,
by saying masses, and by the contributions of penitents;
besides which, the Pope allows to forty of them forty-five
paoH a-month (about thirteen guineas af-jeta) each. There
are above fifty monks in all, aod the majority of them are
young men. What can be expected from a government
that plunders the industrious to nay a pack of idle sturdy
beggars ! I mention those particulars, not that there is any-
thmg extraordinary in the Pope's pensioning these monks
more than others, out because I was led to inquire into the
affidrs of these Augustines by a circumstance which acd*
dentally came to my knowledge the other day ; which, scan-
dalous as it is, I shall relate to you, because I think hypo*
crisy ought to be unmasked.
Ihere Hved, and Hves, in a neighbouring street called the
Tia della Scro&, an honest cobbler, whose wife is youz^,
and, as one of these good fiithers thought, handsome. To
^am her against the snares and wickedness of the worid, he
took pleasure in giving her his ehosthr counsel; and she
became, in consequence, so sensible of her sins, as to come
d^uently to him for confession and absolution. One
morning, last week, the cobbler rose, as usual, at the peep
of day, and went away to hia woric; but, in an evil houTi he
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4 noioB.
happened to return Bome time afterwards, and foiind the
Augufltine in the place he had quitted, by the side dT his
wife. The neighbourhood was alarmed with the horrible
screams that issued &om the habitation ; but the cause was
made evident when the holy father appeared, pursued bj
the cobbler, who cudgelled him all the way to his convent.
A priest told me the friar would be sent to rusticate for a
time ; that is, banished into the country ; which is the usual
punishment in these cases — when they are discovered.
In the Church of San Luigi de' Francesi, there is a chapel
(the second on the right on entering) adorned with admir-
able paintings in fresco, by Domenidiino, of the holy deeds
and sufferings of St. Cecilia. The finest of them all is, I
think, the An^el presenting crowns to St. CeciHa and St.
Valerian, (her husband.) Nothing can surpass the exquisiiie
beauty of the kneeling saints. The next in merit is the
death of St. Cecilia. Beclioing on a couch, in the centre of
the picture, her hand pressed on her bosom, her dying eyes
raised to heaven, the saint is breathing her last; while
female forms, of exquisite beauty and innocence, are kneel-
ing around, or bending over her. The noble figure of an
old man, whose clasped hands and bent brow seem to
bespeak a father's affliction, appears on one side ; and lovely
children, in all the playful graces of unconscious infancy, as
usual in Domenichino's paintings, by contrast heighten yet
relieve the deep pathos of the scene. From above, an angel
— ^such an angel as Domenichino alone knew how to paint,
a cherub form of light and loveliness, is descending on rapid
wing, bearing to the expiring saint the crown and palm of
gloiT.
The other paintings in this chapel are the apotheosis of
St. Cecilia, extremely fine ; St. Cecilia expressing her con-
tempt of the idols, which is on a small scale ; and St. Cecilia
distributing clothes to the poor. These frescos are indeed
works of &st rate excellence, and, fortunately, though in-
jured, are still very visible ; but, as an old Italian said to
me, looking ruefully at the most beautiful of them, " Ventt
anni fa fu hella, hella asscd, ma adesso si vanisce giomaiU
menteJ*^
If these are spoiling^ tiie frescos, with which the rival
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DISTAITT PBOSPEOT. 5
pencils of Domenichino and Gruido adorned the Chapel of
St. Andrew, are spoiled. They are at the Convent of St.
Qregoiy, on the CcBliaa Hill, which we visited the other
We stopped upon the steps of the entrance, to contem-
plate the dark masses of rum heaped on the Palatine ; the
melancholy beauty of the cypress, with which they wero
blended, the majestic arches of the Aqueduct crossmg the
Via Triumphalis, and the grandeur of the mighty Colosseum.
The deserted site of ancient Eome lay oefore us ; the
gigantic monuments of her fallen magnificence were sprea
aromid us ; wild weeds waved over the palaces of her em-
perors, and the imbroken solitude that reigned through her
once busy scenes, stole over the fancy, with feelings of
deeper interest than the picturesque combinations of the
prospect alone could have awakened.
Whilst we were admiring it, the white robe of a Benedic-
tine monk was swept over our faces by the wind, as he
passed us. He apologized, and accompanied us into the
outer court of the convent, where he found our lacquey
pulling at the bell with all his might, and greviously com-
plaining that he puUed in vain. The monk was courteously
shocked to find we had been waiting, would not hear of our
going away without seeing the frescos; and promising to
send the porter immediately, he let himself m, while the
lacquey continued his exercise without ; but, though he made
a peal which seemed rather intended to summon the dead
than the living, nobody came. The brotherhood seemed to
be plunged into an everlasting sleep. "We heard the good
father storming about at intervals, above us, and making a
most tremendous clamour, while occasionally he put out his
head, which, to our inexpressible diversion, was, by this time,
enveloped in a night-cap, and exhorted the servant to ring
louder and louder still — his rubicund face turning at last quite
purple with rage, as he continued to vociferate " Corpo dt
BaccoJ Gaspettol Che vergogna T^ At last a lay brother
came 'drowsily forth, looking like Sloth, and the enragfed
monk, having severely reprimanded him, shut the window
of his ceU, and consigned himself to bed and to his siesta.
Our yawning conductor unlocked for us the doors of three
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6 9oia.
little dingy chapeb near the dmich; and on the damp walla
of one of them we saw the vestiges of the matchless frescos
of Domenichino and Gkiido — ^the spectres of paintings, ** the
ghosts of what they were."
Their decaying colours and fleeting fbrms, which the
absorbing moisture renders every dav more indistinct, leave
little room now to judge of their lormer perfection; but
while the faintest outline remains, the indestructible beauty
of their desi^ and composition must be visible.
Domenichmo's fresco represents the flagellation of St«
Andrew, which the Emperor at a distance is seated to wit*
ness. The suffering patience of the feeble saint is well con*
trasted with the brawny strength and unrelentiag cruelty of
the executioner — (a figure, by the way, which is an admirable
studv for a painter) — ^while the varying passions expressed
by the bystanders are beautifrdly told.
G-uido has chosen the moment in which the aged saint, led
to execution, &lls on his knees to adore the cross. His
fresco, beine^ on the dampest and darkest side of the chapel,
has suffered even more than the other ; and, from the defl*
ciency of light, it is still more difBicult to trace it : but, by
frequent and patient examination in the brightest part of
the day, much of the beauty of both may still be maae out.
But it would be the height of presumption now to attempt
to decide the question of their respective merits, on which
the first artists were divided in opinion, at the time ther
were originally painted. Annibal Uaracci declared himself
tmable to decide the point, but he let an old woman de-
cide it for him ; for he saw her so violently affected by the
flagellation, that he was ever afterwards convinced that
Domenichino's must be the finest.
That untutored nature is, after all, the most unerring
judge of excellence, even in many of those arts that seem
the last result of refinement and cultivation, I am far from
iutending to dispute; and in most cases, like Annibal
Caracd or Moli^re, I should be apt to take an old woman's
opinion before a connoisseur's ; but, in this instance, flagel-
lation is so immediately addressed to the senses and nerves,
that perhaps it was the nature of the subject, rather thaa
the superiozity of the work, that afidctea the old wCHnaa
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BITAI^ nKB90018. 7
witli Bach Tiolent agitation. Slie would sbrink with natanl
honor at the sight of the huhes that laoerated the bleeding
shoulders of the saint of Domenichino ; but could she enter
so folly into the holy rapture of devotion — ^the sublime act
of ad<»Btion, that burst &om the saint of Ghuido, and sus-
tained his soul in that last and dreadful moment of an im«
pending death of torture and ignominy, that human nature
shudders to contemplate P*
St. GhfegoiT used to feed twelve poor men every day here,
and once, to his great surprise, he found there were thu'fceen ;
but the interloper proved to be an angel^ who went away
after eating his dinner, for which purpose indeed he seemed
to have come, for he spoke not, and did nothing but eat.
Of the fact there can be no doubt, because we saw the very
table at which he sat. — "Eccola!" exclaimed the man,
triumphantly, strikinff it with his hand, when somebody,
laughmg, asked if he believed the tale. A fresco of Ghuido's
which represented this dinner of the an^l and the beggars,
is all but totally obliterated. Not so his choir of angek, in
another of the chapels ; but unfortunately, though beautiful,
iikev are by no means the best of his works.
Among them there was one brown angel, — for angels, like
women, are best distinguished by "black, brown, or fkir;"
there was one angel — ^brown as an Ethiopian, but with eyes
so bright and piercing, and shining with such liquid lus&e,
that they shot through the heart of poor , and pos-
sessed such fascination for him, that he actually returned
tliree times to look at them.
There is a statue of St. Gregory sitting in his pontifical
robes, and very stately he Iooks. It is said to have been
begun by Micliael Angelo, who could never persuade himself
to finish it; and I cannot wonder at it; for Popes, even
when they happen to be saints, are but hopeless subjects for
statuary.
I was, however, pleased to see the likeness of this eztn^
ordinary pontiff, who was favoured with the sight of an
archangel on the top of the Castle St. Angelo, — ^with the
company of an angel at dinner, — ^with the attendance of the
^ Thera are veiy fine eoplea of these admirable compoflitlons in the
MasBO Tenadf at Bolognik -
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8 BOHE.
Holy Ghost, in the form of a doye, at Ua ear, and witb tlie
lore of the ladies. Certainly, a personage so blessed with
the favours of angels and women, desenred to be sainted
among men.
The old walls of his house lie scattered about, and are
preserved with great care.
We had scarcely come away from seeing this Pope in
marble, before we met another m reality.
We were proceeding along the ancient Via Triwnphalis^
that leads from the Church of St. Gregory to the Colosseum,
when the coachman, observing to us, " Viene il Fapa^^ drew
up close by the side of the road, and stopped. His Holiness
was preceded by a detachment of the '^ Ouarda Nohile" who,
as soon as they came up with our open caleche, commanded
us, in no very gentle voice, to get out of the carriage.
But , whose spirit did not at all relish this mandate,
nor the tone in which it was uttered, manifested no inten-
tion to comply, and our servant, with true Italian readiness
at a lie, declared we were Ibrestieri who did not understand
Italian. The officers resolved to make us understand some-
thing else, repeated the order, and began to flourish their
swords about our ears. But sat with more inflexible
resolution than ever, and all that was John BuU in his com-
position now refused to move. Eor my part, I make it a rule
never to oppose these pointed arguments, and therefore
jumped out of the carnage, and purposely contrived to get
myself involved among the horses and drawn swords of tne
cavalry, knowing that I was in no real danger, and that
would forget his dignity, and come to my assistance, which
he accordmgly did; but otherwise nothmg, I believe, but
main force, would have got him out of the carriage. We
saw the papal procession advance up the Triumpmd Way,
along which the victorious cars of so many Eoman heroes
and conquerors had roUed in their day of triumph. His
Holiness seemed, however, content with the honours of an
ovation, for he was walking on foot, and instead of a myrtle
crown, his brows were crowned with a large broad-brimmed
scarlet velvet hat, bound with gold lace. This hat he very
courteously took off as he passed us, and afterwards madb
another bow, in return for our courtesies. Our lacquey wa0.
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ZX-SOTALTT. 9
on Ills knees in the dust, and all the Italians we saw, awaited
his approacli in the same attitude, then prostrated themselves
before him to kiss his toe, or rather the gold cross, em-
broidered in the front of his scarlet shoes. His robes,
which descended to his feet, were scarlet ; on state occasions
he wears no colour but white. He was attended by two
cardinals, in their ordinary dress of block, edged with scarlet,
followed by a train of servants, and by his coach, drawn by
six black horses, the very model of the gilt, scarlet, wooden-
looking equipages you may have seen in children's baby-
houses. It looked exactly like a large toy.
The Pope himself is a very fine venerable old man, with a
countenance expressive of benignity and pious resignation.
His is the very head you woi3d draw for a Pope. I have
sinee frequently met him walking in this manner, on the
roads, for exercise, after his early dinner.
The old King and Queen of Spain, and that iniquitous
wretch the Prince of Peace, may be seen every day, at the
same hour, about twenty-two or ^^^^y-three o'clock, or an
hour before sunset,* ta&g their accustomed drive, in two
large coaches and six. There is a most amusing collection
of ex-royalty, of all sorts and kinds, — ^remnants of old
dynasties, and scions of new, — heirs of extinct kingdoms,
and kings of ignoble families, — ^legitimate and illegitimate,
flU jumbled together just now at Eome. Besides the old
King and Queen of Spain, there are the Ex-Queen and the
yoimg King of Etruna — ^the abdicated King of Sardinia,
turned Jesuit — Louis Buonaparte, the dq)osed King of
Holland, living like a hermit — Lucien Buonaparte, the
uncrowned, living like a prince--and certain princesses
living like— like — ^but comparisons are odious, and some-
times they may prove scandalous. In this pious pilgrimage
of churches, we must think only of the lives of nims and
aadnts.
Let us go to the Capuchins. Their church, in the Piazza
Barberini, possesses Gf^uido's painting of the Archangel
* Time is always reckoned in the soath of Italy from the setting of
the sun, which is the venti-quaUro ore, — twenty-four o'clock. If yon
ordered your carrriage at one o'clock, your coadunan would bring it an
hour afker dark.
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lO BOXl.
Micluiel trampling upon Satan. It is a daring attempt
for a mortal hand to pourtraj the forms of heaven, to make
palpable to human vision those unreal, undefined images
of exalted sublimity and unearthly beauty that float before
the poet's fimcy, and are dimly revealed even in the dreams
of gifted genius. Perhaps it is impossible to satisfy the
mind with any representation of the Angel of Light, which,
in its loftiest aspuration it essays not to picture ; but Guide
has made the nearest approach of any painter to realize the
presence of a celestial spuit, and if the being he has pou^
trayed were to appear before us, we should worship him
unquestioned, as a delegate and a power of Heaven.
]aadiant with divini^, and clad in celestial beauty, that
light and ethereal form tramples into the bottomless abyss,
and chains in torture the gigantic and herculean fiend, that
howls and gnashes his teeth with unpotent rage. There
is no exertion or effort of strength on the part of the angel
—it .is the act of volition alone ; there is no struggle or
attempt at resistance on the side of the subjugated demon
-—for resistance is vain. We feel that the united powers
of earth and hell could not cope for an instant with the
might of that slender arm, which wields the omnipotent
sword of Heaven.
It is said that Ghiido, having a pique a^;ainst the Pope,*
** damned him to everlasting fame, by painting his portoiit
in the likeness of Satan, and so strong was the resemblance,
that it was impossible not to recognize it.
I imagine &uido did not exactly meet the same return
for this as Ghezzi, who caricatured Benedict XIY. and all
the college of cardinals ; but that good-humoured Pope was
so delighted that he made him a handsome present.
Domenichino's Ecstacy of St. Francis, which, in a fit of
piety, he gratuitously painted for this church, is not, per-
haps, one of the best specimens of his powerM pencil. It
is a good painting, but a bad Domenichiuo. The only
fresco of Giotto in Borne adorns this church. It represent
St. Peter walking on the waves; and, considering the
in&ncy (^ art in which it was painted^ it is, indeed, a
most wonderful and masterly performance. It is executed
• Urban VIII,
y Google
ukosvaaxsT tobw. U
in moflaie at St. Peter's; so also is Gtddo*s Archimgel;
'toad Domenichino's St. fVancis is at this moment bSng
eo]^d at the mosaic mamifactory.
There is in this convent a sort of museum of lxme%
formed from the skeletons of the deceased Capuchins, to
which the inexorable friars refused us kdies admittaaoe.
The Church of the S. S. Trinity de' Monti once boasted
what Nicolas Poassin pronounced to be ^ the third picture
in the world '* — ^Daniel da Yolterra's Deposition from the
Cross. It ranked, in his estimation, after the Transfigu*
ration, and the Communion of St. Jerome. But it was
totally destroyed by the French, in their clumsy attempt
to remove it, at the time thej^ plundered Italy of her works
<^' art ; and this masterpiece is now irreparably lost to the
world. St. Helena's Discoveij of the Cross, another cele-
brated work by the same artist, on which he spent seven
years of labour, was also ruined, and the church now con*
tains nothing worthy of a visit, except the tomb of Claude
Lorraine. His house, built upon his own design, with a
simple Doric p(»rtico, which he loved to introduce into his
paintings, stands dose beside it, and commands one of the
most enchanting prospects that the eye ever beheld ;* al-
though it is modem Eome only,— -the multiplied domes of
her (murehes, and the towers of her convents, rising beneath
the pine-covered heights of Monte Montorio and Monte
Mano, that meet the view. Ancient Bome is not visible;
one proud obelisk, that rises before the church, alone tells
of its ruined grandeur. But the scene has a charm so
inexpressible, a beauty so peculiar to itself, that its study
alone might well have formed the genius of a Claude ; and
those who have gased upon its morning brightness, and its
evening sunsets, — or watched the harmonious tints of golden
splendour fade in the soft floating purple clouds that man-
tle the west, must have beheld r^ilized the pictures of
Claude Lorraine. On the opposite side of the way, ad-
j<Hning tiie church, is the house of Nicolas Poussin ; and
« li was the residence of the anfhoren dnriiii; the diief part of her
stay in Borne,
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12 BOHX.
dose by it, a house once inliabited by Salvator Boss. The
Trinita de' Monti is still the favourite residence of men of
genius. It is thronged with the etudii and the dwellings of
artists.
The Church of Santa Maria YallicelK re-erected by that
renowned samt, Filippo Neri, and therefore called the
OUesa NuoYO, is built after the desims, and adorned with
the frescos of Fietro da Cortona. On the ceiling of the
Sacristy, the Archangel bearing the symbols of our
Saviour's Passion to Heaven, is one of the best of his
works I have ever seen; the colouring is thought parti-
cularly good, and the effect of the cross, which, though
painted on a horizontal ground, appears perfectly perpen-
dicular, has been much admired. But even when called
upon to approve and commend them, the paintings of Fietro
da Cortona do not touch our hearts with admiration ; they
want the vivifying powers of true genius. Equally remote
from its seducing errors and its redeeming beauties, they
keep on in the dull beaten path of mediocrity. We see
nothing to offend, and nothing to charm us; and even
without &ults they please less than many more imperfect
works.
This church was adorned with the altar-pieces of Bubens,
Guercino, and Caravaggio, all of which are utterly ruined.
In the Oratorio, into which the room where Saint Filippo
died has been converted, we were shown his portrait, by
Gnido. The fathers of the order of I Fadri delV Oratorio^
instituted by himself, are now only twelve in number, and
inhabit a convent large enough, I think, to contain some
hundreds. It is built in the form of a square, enclosing an
internal court, with open corridors, three stories high, and
every part of it is aiiy, clean, and commodious, — ^which we
ascertained; for as the good monks were, as usual, &st
asleep when we arrived, we took the liberty of walking all
over it.
Indeed, the lives of the whole race of monks and friars,
black, white, brown, and grey, in every country where I
have had the happiness of seeing them, may be aptly des-
cribed by some lines of Prior's : —
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nasooiB ov DOUKicHnro. 18
** ney aoondly deep the night am j.
They just do nothing all ^e day ;
They eat, and drink, and sleep— What thent
Why then— they eat and aleep again.
If human things went ill or well —
If changing empires rose or fell
The morning went—the erening eame—
And found mese Jriarsjnst the same/'
In the Church of Santa Maria dell' Anima, the Nativity,
by GiuHo Bomano, though it has suffered from injury and
restoration, is the best of his paintings I have seen in
!Bome.
The Church of San Andrea della Valle, is built upon the
spot where the Curia of Pompey once stood, in which Ctesar
fell. You may imagine the interest with which we visited
it, although not a stone remains, nor an object appears to
recall the memory of the deed that altered the destinies of
the world. Yet did that memorable moment not the less
strongly recur to us, when the blood of Cffisar was poured
forth on the ground on which we trod — ^when Brutiis, mis-
taking the excess of crime for virtue, stifled the soft plead*
ings of nature, the natural beatings of his own heart, and
plunged his treacherous dagger into the bosom of the friend
to whom he owed his life.
Paintings of the martyrdom of saints, and monuments
of the fanaticism of sinners, now met our view; yet was not
tbat memorable scene which our imagination recalled, much
tbe same P Was not Brutus a fanatic, and Caesar a mar-
tyr?
The one was a moral, or, if you wOl, a political fanatic
— ^the other, the martyr of ambition, — ^but it was the ambi-
tion of " heroes, not of gods."
But we came here, not to moralize over the death of
Csesar, but to admire the frescos of Domenichino. He
painted the Flagellation and the Gloriflcation of St. Andrew,
near the altar, and the Pour Evangelists on the angle of
the dome. Among the latter, the beauty of St. John caught
my attention. The colouring is pecunarly fine, the con-
ception grand, the design correct and perfect, the com-
position pure, and the expression true and forcible. * They
are works of real genius, and succeeding generations h^ve
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li BOU.
done them the jiutioe which theit CDntemporaries denied.
Hetro da Cortona, and all his crowd of scholars and imita-
tors, were envenomed in their animosity against Domeni-
chino ; and when these frescos were exposed to view, thej
raised so violent an outcry against them, that the prejudioe
was universal. Domenicnino, who heard them abused on
all sides, took it very patiently, and eveiy morning, as he
went past to his labours, he used to stop to look at these
much reviled productions ; and regularly, after attentively
gazing at them, he shrugged his shoulders, and ezdaimed—
" WeU, after all, they don t seem to me to be so very bad—
JVbn mi pare d'efser tanto cattwo,^*
His '* Cardinal Virtues," in the Church of San Carlo a*
Gatinari, could be surpassed only by himself. Yet, beau*
tiM as they are, I did not admire them, on the whole, quite
so much as these ; and his four frescos, in the Church of
S. Silvestro on Monte Cavallo, representing David dancing
before the Ark, — Judith with the head of Holofemes,— *
^Esther before Ahasuerus, — and Solomon and the Q^een of
Bheba, I tiiought inferior to both. Whether thev really
were so, or that I was then as tired with churches and
paintings as you must be at this moment, I won't pretend
to say. His Assumption, a small fresco on the roof of
Santa Maria in Trastevere, is well worth visiting.
In pity to you and myself, I will, for the present, con*
dude this pilgrimage of the churches; but do not flatter
yourself that you have done with thenu Good night.
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CHUBOH 07 ▲&▲ OOELI. U
LETTEELn.
Chuboh 07 Ajla. Cosli — Steps AsonrDiB ok thb xvus
BY JiTUTTB C^SAB, JJSTD THB MODBBV ItALIAKB —
Thbatbioal Pb£sspio — Qbnbbaii 07 THB Ebahoib-
CAKS — ^MlBACVLOVS BAlCBIISrO-~SAGBB]> IsiAlTD — ^iEsOIT*
LAFniB AlTD St. BaBTHOLOMBW — ^IirDIJLOBKCBB — ^TbAB«
TBTBBB AlTD TbASTBYBBINI — ^AsSASSnTATtOK — GaMBB —
ComTBHTS — Tabso'b Tomb — Vibw o7 Bomb 7bom
Mount Jajsiqxtljju — Compabisok bbtwbbk Faoak
Templbb abb Chbibtiak Chvbohbs.
Thb ugly old Churcli of Santa Maria in Ara CobH, which
crowns the highest summit of the Capitoline HiU, and is
Bup^osed to occupy the site of the splendid Temple of
Jupiter Optimus Mazimus, is adorned m the inside with
twenty-two ancient columns, and on the outside with a
flight of one hundred and twenty-four steps of Gkrecian
marble, said to hare formed the ascent to the Temple of
Bomulus Quirinus. Up these Pagan steps I have frequently
seen good Christians painfully mounting on their knees, —
a method of locomotion they seem to think more to the
taste of the Yirgin at the top of them, than the rulgar
mode of walking ; and it is either practised in order to repay
her for some benefit already Teceired, or to obtain some
desired spratification. One woman told me she had gone up
on her knees, because she had made a tow to do it, if the
Madonna would cure her of a bad sore throat ; in this case
it might be termed a debt of honour. Another performed
this exploit, in order to prevail upon the Madonna to give
her a prize in the lotteiy, and really, in this instance, it
could, 1 think, be considered no better than a bribe ; but as
the tidLet came up a blauk^ it is plain the Yirgin wm not to
be eoxmpted.
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16 Bom.
Nineteen centuries ago, JnliuB Cesar, at Us first trinmpliy
ascended on his knees* the steps of this rery temple, (that
of Jupiter Capitolinus). Strange! after the hipse of ages,
to see, on the same spot, the same superstitions infecnng
opposite faiths, and eniuaying equally the greatest and the
weakest minds !
The List time I yisited this church, it was crowded almost
to suffocation, by peasants from remote mountain villages,
arrayed in their grotesque and yarious holidaj costumes,
who had performed this festive pilgrimage in order to see
the Bambmo, the new-bom Jesus, and pay their respects to
the Virgin, who, at this season, sits in state to receive com-
pan;^. This exhibition is called the Frces^no, and, after
Christmas, is to be seen in almost every church, and in
most of the private houses in Bome ; but it appears in its
full glory in Ara CobH, and there we went to see it.
The upper part of the church, around the ^reat altar, was
adorned with painted scenes, and converted mto a stage, in
the front of which sat the figure of the Virgin, tomb of
wood, with her best blue satin gown and topaz necklace on,
and her petticoats so stuck out, that unless she wore a
hoop, which the friars, who were in the secret, positively
demed, it was impossible to believe that her accouchement
had yet taken place. There, however, lav, in proof of the
contrary, the new-bom Bambino, the little Jesus, rolled in
rich swaddling-clothes, and decked with a gilt crown ; beside
him stood St. Joseph and the two Marys ; and at a little
distance, were seen two martial figures, who, we were given
to imderstand, were Eoman centurions, made of pasteboard,
and mounted on white horses. Near them, projected from a
side-scene, the head of a cow. And all these figures, divine,
human, and bestial, were as large as life. But off the stage,
there was a figure even larger than life. He was the General
of the Franciscan order, who resides in this convent. The
rope that girded his waist could not, I think, have been less
than two yards in length. He might have represented
Ealstaff without stuffing ; and certainly I never saw, even
on the stage, a caricature of a fat fnar, approaching the
circumference of this portly fiEither. It is said there cannot
• Dion. 1. xliU. c. 21.
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TABBICIAK BBIBOl. 17
be too mucli of a good thixig, but certunly, I think, there
was rather a superabundance of this good capuchin.
I have heard many of the Italians, even of the middling
and lower classes, cut much the same jokes upon the friars,
and laugh as much at their fondness for eating and drinking,
and all sorts of sensual indulgences, as the English do. Yet,
by a strange apparent contradiction, they are almost inyari-
ablj the confessors, the preachers, the spuitual monitors and
counsellors, selected by all ranks, in preference to the secular
here are oTih a hundred capuchins now in this convent,
but, before the Erench turned them all out, there were nearly
four hundred.
I forgot to tell you, that the aforesaid Bambino which we
had been to see, was originally brought down from heaven
one night by an aiigel, and is endowed with most miraculous
powers, and held in wonderful repute. I suppose no physi-
cian in Eome has such practice, or such fees. AVhen people
are in extremity of sickness, it is sent for, and comes to visit
them in a coach, attended by one of the friars. One of our
Italian servants assured me it had cured her of a fever, when
all the doctors had given her up ; and I firmly believe it ;
for, upon inquiry, I found that the doctors, resigning her to
the care of the Bambino, discontinued their visits and medi-
cines. The «a? blisters they had put on were allowed to be
taken off; she got neither wme nor broth, and drank nothing
but pure water to relieve her thirst. After hearing this
account, I was no longer surprised at the Bambino^ % well-
earned reputation for curing diseases.
This church takes its name of ''Ara CcbH*' from the
vulgar tradition of the Sibyl's prophecy to Augustus, of the
birth of the Bedeemer, and his consequent consecration of
an altar on this spot, *'to the first-bom of Gh)d" — a
monkish imposition, wholly unsupported by historical tes-
timony.
Leaving the Capitol, we crossed the Bonte QuaUro Oapi,
anciently the Eabiician Bridge, to the island of the Tiber,
whose date, if history may be credited, is more modem than
that of Eome itself, and whose creation is not the work of
nature, but of chance, and of man.
VOL. n. 0
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18 Ttoio.
It is lekted Ij lawj,^ that at the expuLrion of the
Taiquiiui, a large field belonging to them which was oon-
aecrated to Man and afterwaraa called the Gampua Maitinay
was ooYored with ripe com. It became the propeiiy of the
Boman people ; but, dind«rning to eat l^e bread of their
tjrant, they threw the shearea into the river, which, as is
nsual at that time of the year, was low ; tiie com stuck in
the muddy bottom, and receiving continued aggregations of
slime, soil, and other substances, deposited by the stream :
it gradually formed a solid island, which was afterwards
strengthened, and the margin built round with walls.
When the ten ambassadors, sent from Bome during the
plague, returned from their solemn embassy to the Temple
of Esculapius in Epidauros, the sacred serpent, which had
voliintarily embarked itself with them, left tne ship, swam to
the island, and was never more seen by man.t l^iat it was
the ^od who had assumed this shape, and that he had choseii
the island for his habitation, comd not be doubted. The
pestilence ceased — ^the island was formed into the shape of a
ship, in commemoration of the sacred vessel which brought
him, and, near its extremity, the great Temple of JBscukpius
was built. An hospital was attached to it for the cure of
the sick; but the Boman slaves were almost invariably
exposed before the portico, to be cured, if such was the wiJl
of the god, or if not, to perish. To check this inhuman
practice, the Emperor Claudius ordained, that those whe
recovOTed should never more return to their former ser-
vitude.lt Even after the arrival of Esculapius, the island-
was denominated the Sacred Island; and the temples of
Jupiter, of Paunus, and perhaps of other deities, were built
upon it.
The site of the Temple of Esculapius is now occupied hj
the Church of Bt. Bartholomew; and in the garden of the
convent, where the statue of the god, now at Naples, was
found, there is still to be seen the sacred serpent, sculptured
upon the prow of the vessel, into which the extremity of the
island was formed. But, as the good fathers would by no.
means incur the guilt of letting a female look at it, we were
^ Vide lib. ii. cap. 5. Also, vide Flinj, Hist lib. ii in pHneipio.
t Utj, lib. ii. cap. 18, 14. t Soetoniia, Claadiiu^ 25.
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tiiVSAXt HTDVitOxirci. IS*
eoDBtniixiedtofarego thaterimi^ gnitificati<m, nd ^p^tieMj
to await the letum of the piivile^d tex of our ptttyy who
went to aee it.
In this diimsh they offer plenarjr indulgeooes : nostmms
for the cure of the soul have Bupphed the nostnmiB for the
cure of the hody, that used to be administered here. Cor-
poreal is changed into spiritual quackery, Pagan into Cv
tholic superstition, and Eaculapius into St. Bartholomew.
I soon grew tired of looking at some had frescos hy
Antonio Carraoci; and ohserving the inscription of '' JkM*
genseia Plenaria^^* I asked one of the j|roung nriars, whj, sinoe
they had the power of giving ^' unlimited indulgence " to all,
he would not grant us the restricted indulgence of walking
through the garden ? He crossed himself in admiration of
my extravagance, and ejaculated, " Jesu Maria 1" I then
urged him to explain to me what plenary indulgence meant.
He said it was ^ a mystery ; a thinff incomprehensihle to
us; a spiritual good; a hlessing of all the saints.*' But aQ
these, and all t£it followed, were separate and reluctant res*
ponses to my varied interrogations.
Did plenary indulgence give permission to perpetrate
murder r I inquired, ''No! no!—'' Could muraer, when
committed, he expiated hy it?'* That was again a mystery.
Murder mili he exniated. The " ^SbnA) fmlrv " (the Pope),
who had received nom the Prince of Apostles the keys of
heaven^ and the power to forffive sms, eoidd pardon that, or
any crime*— hut kow^ he might not say; all that he would
say to a heretic like me, after all my cross^uestioning, was
"that for hell, he helieved, no inaulgence was to to ob>
tained, hut from ^uneatory there was plenary indulgence
accorded to the fiuthml, through the Madonna, St. Peter,
and the Pope.'*
Our theological controversy was here broken ofi^ much
to TOUT satisfi»tion, I should suppose, as well as tiie fiiar's
and mine, by the return of our friends. We left the
church, and crossing the Ponte San Barfcolomeo, formeriy
called the Pon» Cestiuty from its founder^ though who he
was nobody knows or cares,*— entered Trastevere, that part
of Bome which lies beyond the Tiber, and dong the foot of
Mount Jameuium,
02
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20 iiom.
In Trasterere there are no remains of antiquitj, but
abundance of moniunents of superstition— churches full of
the shrines of saints, and convents full of imprisoned sinners
— ^plenty of houses, but few inhabitants. These inhabitants,
however, boast of being descended from the ancient Bomans,
and look on the upstut race on the other side of the river
with sovereign contempt. Thej will not intermarry with
them, nor associate with them.
They call themselves Mninenti, and support their claims
to superiority by the ferocity of their manners. Bloody
quarrels and vindictive passions, rage, jealousy, and revenge,
seem to reign among them with untameable violence. They,
among all the people of Some, are the most addicted to
carrying the prohibited knife, which, in the paroxysm of
irrepressible fury, they so often plunge into each other's
breast.
I think we are quite mistaken in our estimate of the
Italian character, in one respect. Murder is generally com-
mitted in the sudden impulse of ungovernable passion, not
with the slow premeditation of deliberate revenge. That it
is too common a termination of Italian quarrels, it would be
vain to deny ; and it is equally true, that however English-
men may Ml out, or however angry they may be— drunk or
sober — they have no notion of stabbing, but are usually con-
tent with beating each other. But in England murders are
generally committed in cold blood, and for the sake of plun-
der. In Italy, they are more frequently perpetrated in the
moment of exasperation, and for the gratification of the
passions. An Italian will pilfer or steid, cheat or defraud
you, in any way he can. He would rob you if he had
.courage ; but he seldom murders for the sake of gain. In
proof of this, almost all the murders in Italy are commit-
ted amongst the lower orders. One man murders another
who is as much a beggar as himself. Whereas, our coun-
trymen walk about the unlighted streets of Eome or Naples
at all hours, in perfect safe^. I never heard of one having
been attacked, although the riches of Milor* Inkiest are
Eroverbial. Ainongst the immense number of English who
ave lately travelled through Italy, though all have been
cheated, a few travellers only have been robbed; and of
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THE T1U.8TBTE]inn. 21
thesie not one has either been mnrdered or bnrt.* I am
far, however, from thinking that murders are more firequent
in England than in Italy. In England thej are held in fkt
more abhorrence; they are punished, not only with the
terrors of the law, but the execrations of the people. Bveiy
murder resounds through the land — ^it is canyassed in eveir
dub, and told by every village fire-side ; and inquests, and
trials, and newspapers, proclaim the lengthened tale to the
world. But in Italv, it is unpublished, unnamed, and un*
heeded. The murderer sometimes escapes wholly unpu-»
nished — sometimes he compounds for it Dy paying money,
it he has any — and sometin^es he is condemned to the galleys,
— but he is rarely executed.
The Trastevermi are passionately fond of the game of
Morra. It is played by two men, and merely consists in
holding up,* in rapid succession, any number of fingers they
please, calling out at the same time the number their anta-
gonist shows. Nothing, seemingly, can be more simple or
less interesting. Yet, to see them play, so violent are their
gestures, that you would imagine mem possessed by some
diabolical passion. The eagerness and rapiditr with which
they carry it on render it very liable to mistake and alter-
cation— ^then firenzy fires them, and too often furious dis-
putes arise at this trivial play, that end in murder. Morra
seems to differ in no respect from the ISxca/re DiffUis of the
ancient Bomans.f
There is another pastime among them called La Buaziea,
or La Bottiola, which seems to me to bear a close resem-
blance to an ancient Boman sport — ^that of throwing the
discus.
The Trastevere game consists in coiling a long string'
round a piece of wood, of the shape of a Gloucester cheese,
as tight as possible — ^then rapidly untwisting the string,
when the wood flies off with immense velocity, and the
* Not in 1818, when this work was written ; but subsequently, an^
English gentleman was killed, in consequence of his determined resist-
ance to b«ing plundered. The authoress and her brother, when travel-
ling, were stopped and robbed by a party of banditti near YeUetri, bni
not personally maltreated.
t Cic. DivhL 11, 41. Off. cxi. 28.
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22 som.
length of its coone is the criterion of rictory. This diyer-
sion was prohibited, for it sometimes happem^i that the legs
of unwfiiy passengers were broken, by coming in contact
with these bowling machines ; but it is still practised, though
nb longer in the stridets or public roads.
The resemblance of the lorm of the ruzadea to that of the
discus, and the attitude of the TrasteTcrini as th^ throw it,
so strongty recalled to my mind the Discobolus, tmt I could
not help thinking it muist haye taken its origin frcnn that
sport.
They are the only people in Borne at all fond of dancing,
and on the afltemoons of Sundays, and other festa» espedally
during the Camiyal and about Eastw, most amusing exhi*
Intions may be seen, of youi^ handsome couples, in their
picturesque holiday costume, dandng with an in&uj^ of
attitude and expression, in the courts and gardetis of Traa-
terere:
Trasteyereis saidto haye been the ancient quarter of the
. Jews, and its inhabitants now, as Ibnaerly, hear no yeiy
high character.^
The men struck me as a strong and yigorous taee ; yet
Trasteyere is said to be yery unhealthy, and it is certainly
yeiy depopulated. Its palaces are deserted^ and its streets
untrodoen. The scourge of thd malaria infests it in the
summer ; and it is apparently for this reason that'they haye
established so many conyents here, thinking, I suppose, it ia
no matter how many niins dier^^and, indeed, as mr as the
enjoyment of this world goes, it woidd, perhaps, have been
better for many of th^n that they had neyer been bom.
In Italy, a ** monagterio^* means a nunnery — and a '^cofi-
venio** a monkery or fiiairy, which is exactly the reyerse of
lihe application of these names in France and England.
l*his part of Eome seems to haye been considered insalu«
Mous eyen m ancient timesi Pliny, in one of Ins inyec-
tiyes against Begulus, says, ^ He [Begnlus] staid at his
yi]l% on the other shore of the Tiber, in order to haye the
malicious gratification of making people yisit it at Ihat un.*
wholesome season ;'*t an accusation mdch, by the way, is no
proof of the pbilosopher's discernment, since Begulua must
• Martial, 1. 1. Ep. 119. f Tide Ep.iLUb.iy.
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haire done &r more injury to his own health by a contmued
residence, than, his tiiends oonld hsYO received by their oo*
casional yisits — ^but it is a proof that the air here waa erea
then reputed imhealthy at certain aeaaons.
Tacitus, too, somewhere abusea the Vatican, which ia a
post of Trastevere, for its bad air.* As a proof of the dia*
oemment of the Popes, or the desire they have to send the
aick poor to a better world, they have set down the great
hospital of the Bor^o San Spirito in the very worst air of
this insalubrious region.
The Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, like all the
other old churches of Borne, is adorned with ancient oolumna,
all of which are of Oriental ^pranite ; but their varying pro*
portions and capitals proclaim them to be the spods of
different Boman edifices. There are seven of the Ionic
cafMtab of these columns mentioned by Winkehnan, which«
instead of the rose, have Lilliputian figures of the little god
Harpocrates, with his finger on hia mouth. On the left of
the fdtar are two ancient moaaica, one of which representa
a aearport; and the roof ia adorned with a amall AaaumptioB
in firesco, by Domenichino.
If we may believe the priests, this was a pnblio Christiaii
church as earlv as the beginning of the third centuiy. It
might be so ; for after the death of Septimius Sevenui (a..d.
211), the Christians, during a period of nearly forty years,
not only enjoyed toleration, ana obtained the privilege of
cypenly having places of worship,, but were even hij^ in
fiftvour at the Lnperial court. It is even aaserted, that
Alexander Severus, in the early part of his reign, '^imbibed
the maxims of Christ," and entertained serioua tiioughts of
erecting a temple to him as one <^ the gods.t
In these times, it is related, a miraculous fountain of
aacred oil sprung up in this church, and the spot ia still
Biarked with the inscription of JSbnt OUi,
As we had already visited the Convent of Saint Cecilia
* The Boldien of Yitelliui's annj, while qnaiiered there, fell victims
to the Mune &tal fever whieh stUl depopulates its piecincta. Ta4sitiu^
Hist lib. ii. cap. 98.
t Vide Gibbon, (Decline and Fall* VoL li. p. 869,) who qnotes the
Av^oetan History, p. 180*
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24' BOHE.
once, we did not return to it, but toiled on foot up b, long
and steep ascent to the Church of Sant' Onofrio, where the
remains of Tasso repose.
A paltry inscription on the wall alone marks the spot ;
for, neglected in death as well as life, his ungrateful country
has denied a tomb to the poet whose memory is at once her
glory and her shame. She has not even
" To buried genius raised the tardy bust."
Italy was miworthy of having Tasso for a son. But hia
name is worshipped m every land, — ^his moment is erected
in every heart ; and though the laurel crown, which neveu
encircled his living brows, is not suspended over his grave^
no traveller from the remotest regions of the earth will
leave "the Eternal City,*' without shedding a tear over the
stone that covers the genius and the sorrows of Torquato
Tasso.
In this gloomy convent was passed the close of a life
made wretched by oppression, by contumely, by poverty,
and by chains; — ^maddened by sensibility, and cursed by
genius. It was by his last request that he was buried here.
•—"Buried here!*- I involuntarily exclaimed, as we gazed
on the dark flag-stone, trodden by every vulgar foot that
records the tale. — ^And is the gemus that awakened those
straius of divine poesy, which will resoimd through the
earth while it rolls in its orbit, really biffied here ? — Is the
fency whose heaven-taught powers erected such glowing
visions of beauty and of bliss, sunk in this narrow spot ?
Is the heart whose blighted feelings wept immortal tears
through long years of neglected solituae, and burst its
prison bars, entombed beneath this lowly stone ? — How can
we believe, that the powers which embraced the universe,
and seemed intended for eternal duration, are thus shrunk
to nought ; and that in this speck of earth is all that remains
of Tasso P
From the tomb of Tasso we mi^ht have turned to the
frescos of Domenichino in the portico, which have for their
subject the miracles of Saint Jerome; but one glance at
their worn and washed-out appearance suf&ced ; and with
some feeling of iadignation against the land where the
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GI.OBI0178 PBOSPCCT. 20
fiioaticism and the miracles of saints are honoured and com-
memorated, while taste and genius are oppressed and for-
gotten— ^we gave one glance to the poet's grave, and left the
convent of Sant* Onomo.*
We again climbed the steep sides of Mount Janiculom to
S. Pietro in Montorio, and from the terrace in front of it^
which seems to overhang Borne, we enjoyed the finest view
of the Ancient and Mocfem City I had yet beheld.
Beneath us were spread its massive ruins, overshadowed
with the dark pine and cypress; its deserted mounts, its
fallen temples, its splendid basilicas, its gorgeous palaces,
and its cloistered convents; even the proud dome of St.
Peter's lay at our feet — the magnitude of the Vatican was
shrunk to nothing. Far over its glowing gardens and depth
deptes of cypress shade, the eye wandered delighted, to the
majesty of Monte Cavo, the storied Alban Mount, hung
with ancient woods ; to the purple hues that painted the
Sabine Bills, on whose sheltered sides reposed Tivoli, Fras-
cati, and Palestrina, as if inviting our approach; and to
*^^U AJpestri dossi d^JpenninOy*' whose snowy summits ter-
minated the view.
But I am forgetting, in the delight of retrospection, how
insufferable is description, and how wholly inadequate to
give the faintest idea of the beauty of any prospect.
I turned from this enchanting scene, slowly and reluc-
tantly, to enter the ugly old church of San Pietro in Mon-
torio, for which the finest picture in the world, the Trans-
figuration, was originally painted— but fortunately, both for
its preservation and the just display of its unapproached
perfrction, it is no longer here.
* These nearly obliterated frescos of Domenichino, of which, on snb-
seqnent careful examination, I found the outline still visible, represent
the Baptism of St. Jerome,— St. Jerome Tempted by the Devil, who is
rolling on the ground, and scratching his head in despairing perplexity
what next to essay against the virtue of the saint,— and St. Jerome
Scouiged by an Angel, an event which is gravely asserted to have hap-
pened, though why the saint was chastised in this extraordinary way I
could not learn. I afterwards saw, in a house adjoining the church, a
Madonna, by Leonardo da Yinci, unquestionably original ; to which,
being unprovided at our first visit with a Cardinal's pass of entrance to
convents, we, Udies, were refused admittance.
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26 BQMX.
The Flagellstion of Christ, designed with all the ener;|r
and GorrectnesB of Buonarotti, and painted with all the Tivtd
colouring of Sebastian del Fiombo, still adorns one of these
obscure chapels.
I believe Mr. Angerstein's Besurrection of Lazarus,*
which was also designed and painted by the united powem
of the same great masters of design and colouring, was taken
from this church.
In the cloister of the conyent, there is a small modem
eircular Doric temple, erected by Bramante, at the com-
mand and expense of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, on
the spot whicn tradition points out as the scene of the mais
tyrdom of the prince of the apostles.
SmaU and simple as this little building is, Bramante has
contrived to make it a proof that the best of Italian archi-
tects (and he was the best) would have succeeded as ill in
temples as they have done in churches.
If, however, there is a complete contrast in architecturai
beauty — ^it is curious to see m how many particulars, small
and great, modem Boman Catholic churches correspond to
ancient Pagan temples. It is not only in the pictures and
statues, in the plan and the decorations, in which we might
be glad to trace even a closer resemblance — but it is in the
plumii^ of gods, in the worship of images, in the holy
places, m the real presence, in tne altars and votive ofiEer*
mgs, in the holy water, in the multiplied ceremonies, in
the pompous processions, in the refuge of sanctuaries, — in
all that we see, hear, and do, — ^that we might almost as well
be in a Pagan as in a Christian temple. Even the glory
that surrounds the heads of saints formeriy encircled the
statues of gods. Images of Apollo and Diana, of Fortune
and Pallas, had this nvmbus, or halo of light, round their
heads — and it seems afterwards to have become oommon.t
The Virgin is often represented with the crescent, as the
symbol of chastity — exactlv like Diana of old.
It is curious, too, that the doorways of ancront temples,
]i&e those of all the Italian churches, were closed with a
• Kow in the BHtiah National Galleiy.
t Winkdman, Hist dsrAft, Uh. vi eap. 2. fM.
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cuBioiTS oonrcfiDEircES. 27
IieaYj curiam.* But we should neyer be done, if we
were to go through the parallel between them in all its
minuti®.
And here I gladly finish this hastj^ and perhaps imperfect
Bwpvej of the churches of Eome, with the fullest conviction
that you will not complain of its brevity, however you ma^
suffer imder its tediousness — ^that what is dull in investi-
^tion, cannot possibly be amusing in description ; and that
it is unreasonable to expect vou to listen with pleasure to
tiie description of what I coidd not see with patience.
« Wiiikehiiaii,fiirrAieli.i64.
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soxx.
LETTEE Lin.
FOUNTATETS.
Eboh St. Hetro in Montorio, where we finished our
weary visitation of Eoman churches, and, I believe, ahnost
made a vow never to enter another as long as we lived, from
motives of curiosity; we walked to the Fontana Paolina.
Long before we came in sight of it, the rushing of its
mighty waters stole gradually upon our ear ; but the sound
did not sufficiently prepare us for the sight, and we stood
transfixed with astonishment to behold three noble cascades,
falling in foam into an immense basin, whose surfEice was
agitated like the waves of a lake by their concussion.
The beautifrd solitude of its situation, surrounded by a
deep evergreen shade, and yet commanding one of the most
enchanting prospects over the whole of Bome and the plain
of the Campagna, bounded onlv by the romantic heights of
the distant Apennines, is one of its greatest charms.
The Fontana Paolina, by a whimsical coincidence, com-
bines the names of its architect and maker, Fontana, and
Paolo V. I never could forgive that good-for-nothing old
Pope, for despoiling the Forum of Nerva of its precious
remains, to ornament the tasteless fabric which the joint
skill of himself and his builder has raised. Two dragons'
heads, fixed on each side of them, and which, instead of fire,
spout out insignificant streams of water, contribute to spoil
the fine effect of these beautiful cascades, which have no
parallel even in Bome. Nothing, indeed, strikes a stranger
with more just admiration on ms arrivsd in this capital of
the world, than the immense numbers of fountains, which
pour forth their unceasiag flow of waters on every side. It
IS a luxury, the full value of which cannot be felt but in such
a climate as this; and those only who have known that
delicious moment, when the blaze of the summer-day fades
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roXTSTAJKB OT BOMS. 28
at last in tlie ^Iden clouds of eveninfi^, can understand the
Toluptuous delights with which, in its hushed hour of still-
ness and repose, you listen to the music of their dashing
murmur, ana rest beside their freshness.
The beautiful ibuntains that play before the erand front
of St. Peter's, alone of all those of Borne, satisij mj ima-
gination, and delight my taste. I know not how to des-
cribe to you their beauty; but visit them in the repose of
eyening, when that moon, which here shines like a brighter
planet, walks in her glory through the heavens ; when the
stars awake their mysterious fires, and the soft moon-beam
&I1b upon the lines of the Grecian columns, on the swelling
grandeur of the majestic dome, the tall height of the ancient
obelise, and the sweep of the circling colonnades; when
it brings every beauty into view, throws every defect into
shade — ^when the freshness of the new-bom breeze fans the
cheek with its voluptuous breath, and the voice of the
falling waters soothes the soul to rest; — ^visit them then,
and you will feel their enchantment.
To describe, or to listen to the description of all the
principal fountains of Bome, would indeed be a terrific
task. They are, generally speaking, all deficient in that
greatest of beauties, which, though it would seem the easiest
to be found, is always the last attained — ^the beauty of sim-
plicity; and which is to the fine arts what action is to the
orator, — ^the first, the second, and the third requisite.
The fountain of Trevi has been renownedt through the
world, and so highly extolled, that my expectations were
raised to the highest stretch ; and great was my disappoint-
ment when I was taken into a little, dirty, confined, miser-
able piazza, nearly filled up' with one large palace, beneath
which spouted out a variety^ of tortuous streamlets, that are
made to gurgle over artificial rocks, and to bathe the bodies
of various sea-horses, tritons, and other marble monsters,
which are sprawling about in it. After some cogitation,
you discover they are trying to draw Neptune on, who,
though stuck up in a niche of the palace wall, as if meant
to be stationary, is standing at the same time with his feet
on a sort of car, as if intended to be riding over the
waters.
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fM BOMS.
Now, all this seemi to me to be in reey bad taste. I
have no objection to the moiuurch or the nymphs of the sea^
to tritons, or rhrer-gods, or any other descnption of these
creatures, either in painting or sculpture, where all is equally
fictitious, and consequently all in unison ; but it strikes me
as an outraee upon probability and taste, to have real water
and artificiid monstcvs, and to see sea-horses and men carved
of stone, sitting immoveable in the pure liring stream. In-
deed, the copious quantity and pellucid deamess of the
water, is the only beauty that I could see in the Fontana
di Treri. It would, I think, be difficult to dispose of so
much water to less advantage than the contrivers of this
fountain have produced; and they have done their utmost,
by the enormous palace they have built above it^ and the
colosml statues they have stuck up in it, to diminish as
much as possible the effect of the immensity and the gran«
deur of such a body of water.
This water is the delicious Acqua Yeigine, the same that
flowed into Some in the age of Augustus, and was brought
by M. Agrippa for the use of his baths. Modem Bome is
chiefly supphed with it; although the Fontami Felice, on
the QttirinaL Hill, is said by some to be of still finer quality.
That Fountain is called '' Felice," because Sixtus Y ., who
built it, was called JB'ra i^lix in the cloister ; an auspicious
name, which augured well the fortunes of him who was
raised from the station of a shepherd boy to a throne,* and
not only to the rank of a prince, but to be a ruler of princes.
It is also called BowiatM di Shrmmi, from its vicinity to the
ThermsB of Diocletian.
It represents Moses striking the rock,-— or rather Moses
does not strike the rock, nor is there a rock to strike ; but
it is supposed he does ; and he stands in one niche with a
rod in his hand, and Aaron and Gideon, or some such supers
fluous persons, are sturtioned in others, amidst bas-reliefs.
"What have four lions, either ancient or modem, to do
with spouting out water? and what business have they
here P Two of these lions, formed of basalt, are of Egyptian
* He was the son of a poor peasant in the March of Ancona, tad
tended his father^s fiockSi
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VOKTAJTA SI TBBMnrC 81
extraetion, and are supposed to hare been biouglit captiyetr
to Bome, when Augustus returned after the battle of
Actium. The poor animals were taken from the portico
of the Pantheon, to perform this unnatural employment.
Bams' heads, lions, masks, all kinds of mouths, were used
for this purpose hj the ancients as well as the modems.
We seem to have kept all their absurdities in addition to
our own.
The front of the Fontana di Termini is built of large
masses of Trayertine, adorned with little columns of mar*
ble, and surmounted with a long inscription ; the whole is
weighed down ynth a cumbrous attic, and is much admired.
In the Piazza Navona are three fountains; the centre
one supports the obelise brought from the Circus of Can*
calla. It consists of a great mass of artificial rock, to which
are chained four river gods — a truly Bernini idea ! He has
not placed them at rest, in the recumbent, meditative, clas-
sical posture of river-gods, but fastened them in the most
uneasy attitudes, and unnatural contortions; and in order
to show proper contempt for the architecture of Borromini,
who built tne front of St. Agnes's church, the two watelf
deities on the side next it are made to throw up their eyes
to it in the shrinking attitude of terror, as if expecting it to
&U upon them. But the Church of St. Agnes stands where
it did, and has no appearance of moving ; so that the alarm
of these huge (creatures seems only ludicrous and cowardly.
If they had held up their hands and eyes at its ugliness, I
should have had some sympathy with them ; but of its sta-
bility there is, unfortunately, no reason to doubt. Prom
each of these colossal river gods, springs his own dribbUna
stream. You see at once the source of the Nile, whicn
some stupid people imagined had never yet been traced — •
and the Danube spouts out his mighty waters, in force
sufficient to M a moderate-sized bucket. After a short
course down the sides of the artificial rock, the four great
rivers of the different quarters of the world are lost in the
basin of the fountain, which represents the Ocean.
I forgot to mention that there is, besides, a cavern in the
rock, in which a lion and a horse reside in the most amicably
manner possible ; though what they do there in the middle
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82 BOios.
of tlie sea, I do not exactly compreliend. This fountain is
(Contrived so as to overflow annuallj ; and during the burn-
ing heats of sununer, for a few evenings in the month ot
August, it is the deUght of the people of Borne to drive
about among its waters, which fill the Piazza Navona. It
yras suggested by an ingenious Mend of mine, that this
custom was probably the remains of the sports of the Nau-
machia, exhibited at the annual games in honour of the
gods, at this very period of the year, and in this very spot,
which was the ancient Circus Agonalis.
There is a much-admired fountain in the Piazza Barbe-
rini, from a design of Bernini's, in which a stone Triton sits
upon four dolphins, and throws up the water &om a large
shell. But the prettiest of these minor fountains, in my
opinion, is that of the Tartantchey in the Piazza Mattei, in
vnuch four bronze figures, in singularly graceful attitudes,
support a vase, fix)m which the water flows. It derives its
name from the four tortoises that adorn it.
On the whole, I admire, with fond admiration, the foun-
taias of Eome; not that as fountains I think them beau-
tiful; but that falling water, in ample quantity, must be
beautiful in a climate like this, where its sound, even in
winter, is so sweet to the senses. I love to repose ^ly fancy
upon the three noble cascades that are poured forth at the
Fontana Paolina ; the copious streams which burst from the
rocks of the Fountain oi Trevi ; and those silver fountains
that throw high in air their glittering showers within the
grand colonnades of St. Peter's. These are beautiful; but
toT all the ugly statues of monsters and men, — sea-horses
and dragons, — prophets and lions, — and fishes and gods,—
I hold them in utter abhorrence, as well as the clumsy and
hideous buildings erected above them.
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THB YJlTICJLS UBBABT.
LBTTEE LIV.
Yatiojls Lebeaby.
The Vatican Library is called the largest in tlie world ;
not that it contaiiis the most books, but the most space ;
for although it has been formed ever since the days of
Hilary, pope and saint, and been augmented by the accu-
mulation of several subsequent popes and saints; and has
received the entire libraries of various kings and cardinals,
(amonjzst others, that of Queen Christina of Sweden,) and
part of the library of the Eoman Emperor of Constantinople
— yet, after all, I am assured, on what I believe to be good
authority, that it scarcely possesses forty thousand volumes,
although the amoimt is generally stated at double that
number.
The collection of manuscripts is, however, extremely rare
and valuable, and amounts to upwards of thirty thousand.
Some of these are very curious. The famous Virgil, with
its costume paintings of the Trojans and Latins, supposed
to have been executed about the age of Constantine ; the
Terence, with its paintings of masks, of nearly as ancient
date ; the manuscript of Phny, with its pictured Noah's ark
of aniTTiRla ; HcuTy VIII.'s letters to Anne Boleyn ; and
his Treatise on the Seven Sacraments, which he presented
to Leo X., and in return received the title of Defender of
that Faith which he was so soon to overthrow; the Tasso
and Dante, and an infinity of others, — ^interesting as they
are, have been already so o&en described, that I sh^ abstain
from any observation upon them. The Abate Maio dis-
covered, amongst these MSS., about the year 1824, a part
of the lost books of Cicero I)e Bepvhlica, over which, how-
ever, some of the treatises of St. Augustin had been written,
but the original MS., although much defisu^ed, is said to be
still legible.
TOL. II. O
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34 BOici.
The only access to the Vatican Library is from the
Museum. The great door, which is of bronze, and rery
magnificent, seems intended for ornament rather than use,
for it is never opened. The usual entrance is by a small door,
which opens into the office of the seven clerks, or writers of
the principal Euronean languages, who are attached to the
library. A cardinal is always the nominal librarian, and this
room is hung with the portraits of these Oardmali Bibluh
tecarjy amongst which there is one by Domeniclnno.
Passing on through an ante-room, you enter a hall two
hundred feet by fifty, entirely painted in fresco, with colours
so glanng, and contrasts so violent, that it reminded me of
an immense China bowl. This capacious apartm^it con-
tains no visible sign of books, and indeed you may walk
through the whole Vatican Library without seeing one : for
they are shut up in wooden presses, which may conceal
either great wealth or great poverty.
In this hall there is a column of most beautiful Oriental
alabaster, spirally fluted, brought from the Baths of the
Emperor Gbrdian, near the Trophies of Marius, and erected
upon a pedestal of verde antico. The capital is unfortu-
nately lost.
Here also are two small Etruscan cinerary urns, of terra-
cotta; with the common sepulchral bas-reHef of the fratricidal
combat of Eteocles and Polynices.
On either side of them appear their guardian spirits, who,
the Etruscans supposed, never left man from the cradle to
the tomb. Or rather, perhaps, they here represent the
Euries, who urged on the royal brothers to this sanguinary
combat, and who stand exulting over their victims, flapping
their long wings. But the Etruscan deities are generally
winged. Minerva is represented on an Etruscan monument
like Mercury, with wings both on her heels and shoulders ;
and Venus, Diana, and several others, have the same attri-
butes.
"We were shown the remnant of a piece of cloth of As-
bestos, found in a sarcophagus on the Appian "Way, which,
the man who exhibited it assured us was quite indestruc-
tible by ^e; at the same time that he very consistently
lamented that it was reduced aJmost to nothmg, by having
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VHS TATlOAlf LIBBABY. 85
been so often Imint. The fact is, that to a oertain degree
it resists the action of fire, and it was therefore used by the
Bomans to collect the ashes of the wealthy dead.
Haying conceiyed this halL to be the whole library, great
was my surprise to behold at its extremity, on either hand,
a long gaUery open upon me in almost mterminable per-
spective.* I actually stood mute with astonishment — a
rare effect on the female mind ; and like the ass between
two bundles of hay, I scarcely knew which gallery to
take.
The one is terminated by the Sacred, the other by the
Profime Cabinet, as they are pleased to call them; the
first being a collection of Chnstiaii, the last of Pagan
antiquities.
On our way to the former, we encountered the statue
of St. Hippolytus, with a modem head, but a body of un-
doubted authenticity, and unquestionably the most ancient
statue of a Christian extant. It is a work of the age of
Alexander Severus, and was dug out of the catacombs.
Opposite to him sits AriBtides,'not the ancient philosopher,
but a rhetorician of degenerate days; whose statue bears
no more comparison to that Aristides we had so much
admired at Naples,t than does his fame to that of the
Grecian sage; and we passed him without one tribute of
respect or admiration.
The Sacred Cabinet consists of curiosities taken £rom the
catacombs — ^laborious carvings of Madonnas in ivory — ^little
pictures of saints on ^ grounds— bas-reliefs of the bar-
barous ages, representrag martyrdoms — ^instruments used
in martyrising the early Christians, and a long et cetera
of all sorts of heterogeneous articles. There are a number
of red velvet jewel cases — empty; the French having carried
off all the precious stones they could find, without any
regard to their sanctity; so that the ear-rings and brooches
of the saints and martyrs, in all probability, are now adorn-
ing the belles and elegantes of Paris.
The adjoining chamber of the Papyri is the most beau-
* We affcerwards learned tliat it is 1200 English feet in length.
t Ponnd in Herculaneum. One of the finest statues in the world. .
J> 2
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86 soius.
tiful little hijau I ever beheld. Its architecture and deco-
rations are by Sapbael Mengs, who was employed by
Clement XIY. to miULe it, and to paint the roof in fresco.
He has represented History writing on the wings of Time,
and Fame hoyering in the air, and sounding forth to the
world the deeds she records. The composition is not, per-
haps, yery learned, but the figure of Tune is fine, and the
cofouiing, when compared with the horrible daubing of the
present Erench and Italian schools, deseryes the greatest
praise.
Mengs, like nuuiy other artists, was too much cried up in
his lifetime, and cned down since his death.
The payement of this superb little apartment is of the
richest marbles; the walls are encrusted with pallo and
verde antico, with porphyry and pilasters 6f Oriental granite
of the highest polish ; and the whole decoration is as much
distinguished by taste as magnificence.
The Papyrus manuscripts, which consist of ancient
yolumes unrolled, are enclosed in the walls in long columns
under glass. They are of the fourth, fifth, and sixth cen-
turies, in Ghreek and in Latin ; but in matter are of little
interest. When closely examined, the papyrus has the
appearance of waxed cloth.
The library, at this extremity, has been extended by the
present Pope, who has added some rooms, in which the
t)ooks can actually be seen, and eyen got at. He has also
formed a narrow httle gallery, the walls of which are entirely
composed of inscriptions in terrarcotta, that otherwise inight
haye been entirely lost. I am sorry I can giye you no
account of them, my attention havmg been entirely en-
grossed by some Etruscan, or, more properly, Grecian
yases, of singular beauty. An immense number of yases
are ranged on the top of the book-cases, along the whole
extent of the gallery; but these are by far the largest and
finest, and, indeed, surpass any I haye seen, except the un-
riyalled collection at [Naples.
This library possesses a yery fine cabinet of medals, which
was carried off^ and has been restored, by the French ; but
it is still in such complete confusion, tliat it cannot be in-
spected.
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THX YATIOAJer LIBBABT. 87
There is, too, attached to the libnuy, a whole chamber
filled with a fine collection of prints, to which it is neoes-
eaiy to have a particular order for admittance, and in an-
other chamber, are the secret archiyes of the Vatican, to
which there is no admittance at all.
We traversed the whole extent of this immense galleiy
to the Profane Cabinet, at the other extremity, whidi con-
tains a most entertaining collection of antiques. Some of
the bronzes, especially, are extremely curious and rare.
Two bronze heads, fiwm their singular beauty, first catch
the eye; and also, but from an opposite cause, a bronze
Etruscan figure with the buUa, or amulet, about his neck,
bearing an Etruscan inscription, a part of which has been
deciphered, signifying that it was a votive statue. It is very
mucn in what we should call Chinese taste ; the form and
features, as well as the style, bear a near approach to it.
There are numbers of Penates ; of those long-legged, spindly,
little bronze figures, with enormous casques, exactly like
cocked hats, on their heads, which abound m every museum.
Among these I saw the Egyptian Sethas, dressed in a tunic,
and armed with a shield and a long sword, which, I think,
precisely answers to the description of the Seeutor,* I
observed some types for stamping — so close an approach to
types for printing, that I cannot but marvel how the an-
cients missed that invaluable invention.
There are several lead water-pipes, marked with the
f lumbers' names ; but I might write a Httle volume, were
to particularise one half of the curiosities I observed. I
will, therefore, pass over the most complete collection of
antique kitchen and household utensils I have ever seen,
and many exquisite .Httle pieces of art in gems, bronze,
Ac.
Perhaps the most singular thing in the whole, of its kind,
is the long hair of a Eoman lady, found in a tomb on the
Appian Way, and in perfect preservation. It is strange
* The Secutores were one of the kinda of gladiatore. They fought
with the Retiarii, who endeavoured to entangle them by throwing
their net over their head, while the Secutores pursued them to prevent
their puzpose, and slay them. — Tide laidor. zviii. 55.
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88 Bim.
bow it alone Bbould have escaped the oommon doom, and be,
I may 8ar» tbe sole pbysical remnant of bundreds of geneia-
tions. Tbeir bones, tbeir asbes, tbeir every vestige of mor-
tality, bave all vanisbed; not even tbe paring of a nail,
as far as I know, is left of all tbat lived and died in tbe
long ages of Boman glory or degeneracy — except tbese
tresses; wbicb still remain brown and unchanged, as
wben tbeir beauty first pleased tbe eye of ber wbom tbey
adorned.
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THE BISTDTS CHAPEL.
LETTEELV.
The Sisthtb Chapel— The Last Judgmbitt — Michael
Angblo — ^Thb Paolina Chapel — Sala Bobgla.
Ths TVench, in permaxiently placing the most celebrated
portable productions of art at Paris, would have committed
an irreparable iujury to sculpture and painting ; for, by remov-
ing the apparent strongest temptations to artists to travel
through Italv, they would have excluded the majority of
them £rom the true schools of art, which are the n*e8COS of
ancient masters, and the inumerable and unremovable works
of Ghrecian sculpture, — especially bassi rilievi, — ^to the study
of which paintmg itself owes much that is great and beau-
tiful in its design, conception, and execution.
There is no part of Italy that does not present a field of
study. Bologna, Florence, Y enice, Naples,* and even Gfenoa
and Milan, abound in instruction and delight. But Eome
surpasses all. Here, at every step, the artist wOl drink in
instruction, that years of study could not give him in our
Grothic countries. If he has taste or genius, here it must
develope itself^ and find in every surrounding object aliment
hr its growing powers.
The inexhaustible treasures of the Vatican, the Capitol,
and the Villa Albani, with iimumerable statues, bas-r^efs,
and fragments of exquisite sculpture, that meet the eye at
every turn ; the frescos of Michael Angelo, Baphael, Annibale
Caracd, Ghuido, Domenichino, and Guercino--all these, and
far more, does Bome contain. Until you know these frescos,
* Naples for the ecalptor, Bologna and Venice for the painter, and
Florence for both, are inestimable schools. But let it be remembered,
that tiiough the sculptor may be excused the study of painting, the
painter can never sufficiently study sculpture.
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40 SOME.
you cannot know what painting is. .From these alone can
you understand the true principles, powers, and perfection of
the art. Experience only can make this be felt. Thousands
who behold the Transfiraration never dream that they see
the least part of Eaphael. Hence the student, satisfied with
the collection of the Louvre, would rarely have explored
Europe to visit the forgotten Ireasures of Italy.
The French only lopped a few branches of the tree of
art — ^they could not remove its root and stem.
But, independent of the inconceivable mine of instruction
contained in those models, which must be fixtures here, the
artist will here find a finer nature. Forms, whose contour
and symmetry far surpass in perfection those of our ungenial
climates; whose attitudes and expression, untaught grace,
and classical beauty, I have often thought even approach the
ideal, — continually meet his sight; and their study must
give to his imagination new combinations of aU that can
constitute perfection.
To return to the frescos, the value of which cannot be
justly estimated at the first glance, — I imagiue no one can
now see the Last Judgment of Michael Angelo without a
feeling of extreme disappointment. It is, indeed, somewhat
difficmt to see it at all. The architect of the Sistme Chapel
has so ingeniously contrived to exclude the light, that, unless
when the sun shines unclouded, high in the meridian, the
attempt is vain ; and even then, blackened with the smoke of
innumerable tapers, during three centuries, it may be sup-
posed that many of its beauties are now obscured. Besides
this, a huge, high, red velvet canopy, hfts its awkward back
from the altar into the very centre of the picture, breaking
up the subject, and spoiling the effect of the whole.
We had interest enough with some of the red-legged race
to get this machine removed, for our especial benefit, during
two or three days ; but until a Pope of taste shall wear the
tiara, there is no chance of its being carried off alto-
gether.
The common engraving—bad as at is, for a good one is
still a desideratum, — ^will give you a far clearer idea of this
celebrated fresco than the most laboured description ; there-
fore I shall content myself with observing, that it covers the
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whole of the wa31 of the upper end of the chapel, from the
ceiling to the floor. High in the centre, is Cniist jadgine
the world, in the yery act of denouncing to the wicked
beneath, on his left hand, that awful sentence — "Depart,
je cursed, into everlasting fire, prepared for the devil and his
angels." While ^lorj ineffikble surrounds his head, and saints
and beautified spirits hover around him, the heavenly minis-
ters of divine vengeance are hurling the condemned down-
wards to the bottomless abyss. Their last uplifted looks to
that heaven which is shut against them forever, — the ghastly
fear depicted on their countenances, — and their desperate
struggles of resistance, are horrible beyond conception.
At this comer of the picture, at the bottom, is repre-
sented Charon, fenying them in his boat over the dark
waters of Styx, and driving the reluctant spirits out with
his oar, exactly as Dante describes him —
" Batte col remo qnalunque B*adagia."
The depths of hell open on its brink, and yelling demons,
with diabolical gestures, and girt with hissing snakes and
scorpions, such as even Dante's imagination could scarcely
have conjured up, stretch forth their fiery arms to seize
the trembling victims.
On the other hand, around the throne of glory, angels are
sounding the golden trumpet, at which the dead arise.
Their lifeless re-animating forms, half lifted from the grave,
are so finely designed, that, unnatural as is the subject, they
seem to come to life before your eyes. Others, disencum-
bered of their mortal clay, are ascending into heaven, and
angels, stooping from the clouds, are assisting them to rise
into light and glory.
Tke grand and prominent figure of the Judge and £e-
deemer of the world, instantly strikes the eye, serves as the
dividing point of the picture, and gives to the composition
fdeamess, grandeur, and efiect. Above his head, the fleet-
ing forms of angels are seen bearing the symbols of his
passion. St. Bartholomew, below, olers up his skin, the
symbol of his martyrdom ; and the figures of some other
paints are done with a force and grandeur of design truly
wondeifril. But I have a particular objection to some of
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42 soiOB.
the female samts. St. Catherine of Siena, in a green sown,
and somebody elae in a blue one, are aupremelr hideous.
It seems that one of the popes — ^I believe Paul lY. — in an
unfortunate fit of prudery, was seized with the resolution of
whitewashing over the wnole of the Last Judgment, in order
to cover the scandal of a few naked female figures, in the
grandest painting in the world ! With difficulty his Holiness
was at last prevented fix>m utterly destroying this unrivalled
composition, but he could not he dissuaded from ordering
these poor women to be cbthed in these unbecoming pet-
ticoats. Daniel da Yolterra, whom he employed in this
office, received, in consequence, tiie name of "II Braghet-
tone."
On the whole, I think the Last Judgment is now more
valuable as a school of design, than as a fine painting, and
that it will be more sought for the study of the artist, than
the delight of the amateur. BeautiM it is not — ^but it is
sublime; — sublime in conception, and astonishing in exe-
cution. Still, I believe, there are few who do not feel that
it is a labour rather than a pleasure to look at it. Its
blackened sur&ce— its dark and dingy sameness of coburinff
—-the obscuriiy which hangs over it— the confusion and
multitude of nifiked figures which compose it, (to say no-
thing of the grossness of such a display)-— their unnatoraL
position, suspended in the air, and the sameness of form,
attitude, and oolouriuff, confound and bewilder the senses.
These were, perhaps, defects inseparable fix>m the subject,
although it was one admirably calculated to call forth the
powers of Michael Angelo. He has, indeed, here shown
himself master of the grand and the terrible ; and the learn-
ing, the science, the perfection of desi^ the vigour of
genius, and the grandeur of thought, this sublime compo-
sition evinces, must be admired by all who are capable of
estimating them.
To merit in colouring it has confessedly no pretensioiu^
and I may venture to say, that I think it also deficient in
expression — ^that in the conflicting passions, hopes, fears,
remorse, despair, and transport, that must agitate the breasts
of so many thousands in that awM moment, there was room
for powerful expressioui which we see not here. But it is
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THX BIflTCT COASVL. 48
&ded and defiaoed; the touclieB of immoital genius aie lost
for ever; and from what it is, we can form but a &int idea
of what it was. Its defects daQj become more gburing— 4t8
beauties vanish; and, could the spirit of its ^eat author
behold the mighty work upon which he spent the unre-
mitting labour of seyen years, with what gnef and mortifi-
cation would he ^e upon it now !
It may be fanciful, but it seems to me that in this, and in
every other of Michael Angelo's works, you may see that
the ideas, beauties, and peculiar excellencies of statuary,
were ever present to his mind ; that they are the concep-
tions of a sculptor embodied in painting.
Michael Angelo, indeed, deserres our highest veneraticm
for the just principles which he rescued mm oblivion, for
the emancipation nrom GK)thic barbarism, and for the total
and happy reformation he effected in art, by introducing the
study of the antique, of ideal beauty, and of nature, m all
their truth, simpncity, and grace. He was the reviver of
true taste, and jdaj be called the author of all the excellence
we have since enjoyed — ^the master of successive genera-
tions ; but, perhaps, at least as far as painting goes, he is
rather to be admired for the excellence he has caused in
others, than for his own.
In &ct, he always painted unwillinglv, and few of his
works remain. The Sistine Chapel may be said to contain
them all. The frescos of the roof were painted before the
lidst Judgment, aiid, though less £Eimed, are, in my poor
opinion, &r superior, more especially the noble figures of
the Sibyls and Prophets, round the frieze, which have a
grandeur and subhinity that painting has rarely equalled.
These are in fSEir better preservation than the last Judgment ;
so also are the nine Jdmonic pictures, which adorn the roof
— ^representing the figure of uie Etenaal Father, calling the
world out of chaos — ^the Creation of man, and of woman —
their bliss in Paradise — and, above all, the last beautiful
picture of their expulsion from those blessed seats. But it
would be vain, by description, to attempt to give you any
idea of the perfection of these great master-pieces of paint-
ing. I will therefore refrain, even from the expression of
admizatiany and the dear delight of criticism.
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M BOKK.
These, then, are all that lemain of the painter — ^Michael
Aiigelo—
" quel ch'^ per Bculpe e colors
Michel, pitL che mortal, Angel divino !"*
for we are told that he never painted more than one piece
in oils,t which is in the gallery at Florence. But many of
his designs, some of wmch may be classed amongst the
grandest compositions in the world, were executed by Sebas-
tian del Piombo, Marcello Venusti,J and others.
In the Paolina Chapel, indeed, there are — or rather were
— some of his frescos ; but they are so thoroughly blackened
with the smoke of the thousand tapers that bum before the
Sepulchre of our Saviour in Passion "Week, that they are all
but totally obliterated.
Besides, the dungeon darkness that reigns in this chapel,
even on the brightest summer's day, renders it absolutely
impossible to see them. As well as I could guess at them,
under such circumstances, they must have been grand com-
positions. The subjects are the Conversion of St. Paul, and
the Crucifixion of St. Peter — ^both admirably suited to his
powers.
It is cruel to see works such as these, the sole remains of
the Father of Painting, which might serve for the instruc-
tion and admiration of future generations, not only aban-
doned to neglect and decay, but mercilessly, and one would
think, sedulously destroyed. But it is no use to be
e Sala Borgia, the ante-hall to the Sistrna and Paolina
♦ Arioflto, Canto 83. t Vide Vaaari.
X Marcello Yenusti, of whose works I have seen little in England,
wajs a native of Mantua> and, when a boy, only a colour-grinder to
Perrin del Vaga, but his genius forced its way, in spite of all his
master's efibrts to depress it. He found a protector in Michael Angelo,
and, by copying his designs, and receiving his instructions, caught so
much of his spirit, as well as that of Baphael'^ whose works he inces-
santly studied, that he is thought, by many critics, to have united much
of the peculiar excellencies of both masters. Perrin del Yaga, the
envious master of Marcello Yenusti, was by far the most successful of
Saphaers pupils in copying and imitating his works, although decidedly
deficient to Giulio Bomano in original genius.
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THE SISTHnB CHAPEL. 45
Chapels, is painted with frescos, more remarkahle for their
subject than execution. They represent the Massacre of
St. Bartholomew's Day, thus commemorated on papal wfdls,
and by papal command, as a meritorious action ! Times are
changed. JN'o Pope, I imagine, would venture now to give
openly a sanction of approval to such a deed ; nor, in feet,
could any human being, I should hope, be found capable
of planning or of .perpetrating it. These are the days of
pohtical rather than of religious fenaticism.* ^
* Such was the case in 1820, when these letters were first pnhlished.
But a lamentable change has sioise taken place — a retrograde movement
in society, which may be dated from the " Emancipation ** of the
Boman Catholics. The mask has been at length thrown off; the spirit
of bigotry and insolence has now manifested itself, and avowedly wants
but the power to renew persecution in its most unrelenting form. See
the recent charges, manifestoes, letters, &c., of the soi-diaaiU Boman
Catholic Primate of Ireland, and other heads of that church.
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46 SOICB.
LETTER LVI.
The Cahsbb ot "Raphato.
Ttbisk there is a character in Eaphael which Buonarotti
wants — a truth of expression, a soul-touching beauty, a
sentiment, a majesty, wliich none but Baj)hael ever so emi-
nently possessed, but which Buonarotti strikes me as being
peculiarly deficient in. — We turn firom his works with our
understanding satisfied and inslsructed, but our soul un-
moved. They only address themselves to the head, but Ba-
Ehael's touch the heart. The folrmer will only be admired
y the learned, the latter will be felt by all.
It ought not to be forgotten, in estimating the perform-
ances of these two great men, that Michael Angelo lived
more than two lifetimes of Eaphael. "What Eaphael would
have been, had he not been cut off in the very day-spring
of his genius, we may with sorrow estimate, from the works
which even at sii-and-thrrty he left to the world* He might
be inferior to Buonarotti in learning — ^he might owe to hia
more advanced studies much of Ms grandeur of style — ^but
he drew his perfection from himself. In the noble air of
his heads, and the grand flow of his draperies, he is con-
fessedly unrivalled — and in that touching beauty of expres-
sion— ^m that power which speaks from his works to the
understanding and the heart — ^neither Buonarotti nor any
human being ever approached him.
It is years since I saw the Cartoons, and still they are
present to me. Even while I write, the image of Paul
preaching at Athens, and that sublime head of Saint John
m the death of Ananias, return upon my remembrance.
"What sentiment! — What soul! — "What holiness! — ^What
beauty ! What must have been the mind of him who con-
ceived, it ; and what an ineffaceable impression does it leave
upon the heart I
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11.,-:
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bafhail'b camebe. 47
To how few has been given that wondrons faculty of
breathing into their works more than human beauty, sub-
limity, and grace — ^the power of surpassing nature, without
departing from her laws, and creatmg by the conceptions
of their own exalted minds, forms of nnunagined thvnkmg
beauty!
On Baphael, and on the unknown author of the Apollo,
this precious g^ was bestowed ; and the admiration of suo-
cessiye generations, the fruitless imitation of artists of every
age and country, have made us feel '* we shall never look
upon their like agaiu !"
One can never sufficiently regret that Eaphael was tied
dovm so continually to the sameness and senseless repe-
tition of Madonnas and Holy Faniilies. He knew, indeed,
how to vary them — ^to give them that unparalleled grace,
that tenderness of expression, and that soul-affecting beauty
and divinity, which make us gaze upon them for ever with
unsatiated delight. Still, if there be any feebleness of
design in his works, it is in such as these, feut it is in his
great historical compositions, in the sublimity of the Trans-
figuration, the matcnless Cartoons, and, more than all, the
immortal frescos of the Camere, that we feel in all their
force his transcendaut powers ; and these imperishable me-
morials will for ever consecrate his name.
. Imperishable, did I sav? Alas ! while we gaze upon the
mouldering frescos of the Camere, how do we mourn over
the decay of works such as the world can see no more !
All that brutal injury, culpable neglect, and still more
culpable restoration, could do to accelerate their destruction,
has been added to the slow attacks of time. Scarcely ten
years after they were painted, when Eome was taken by
assault;* the hcentious soldiers lived in these chambers,
lighted their fires, in default of chimneys, on the stone
floors, blackening the paintings with smoke, (which is far
more destructive to frescos than to oil paiatiags,) and even
wantonly iojured and defaced many of the finest heads.
These, Sebastian del Piombo was employed to restore;
though a capital colourist, his powers were by no means
equal to the task, and he executed it so ill, that Titian,
* A.D. 1628.
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48 Boia.
who afterwards visited these chambers with him, pur-
posely asked him, if he knew who was the presmnptuous
and Ignorant blockhead that had daubed over these noble
heads?*
But the injuries that would have wholly mined any other
paintings, have scarcely^ thrown a doud over these; and
while the faintest outbne remains, they must retain their
pre-eminent superiority. But that superiority, in their
present state, is by no means striking at the nrat fflance.
After all your nigh-raised expectations, you will walk
through a set of cdld, square, gloomy, un^irnished rooms,
with some old, obscure, faded figures painted on the walls ;
and these are the Camere of JSaphael ? You will inquire,
UH est Baphael? Your disappointment will have no
bounds. But have patience — suspend your judgment —
learn to look on them — and every fresh exammation will
reward you with the perception of new beauties, and a
hi^er sense of their exoellence.f
Every inch of the walls, from the ceiling to the floor, and
the whole of the roofs, are covered with paintings. They^
are not, however, all done by his own hand — ^many of them,
either entirely or in part, were executed by his principal
pupils, under his eye, and from his designs. Such a niunber
and variety, it may be supposed, are marked by varying
de^ee of excellence; but Jbtaphaers success seems to me
tol)e always in exact proportion to the grandeur, the inte-
rest, and the difficulty of the subject.
By far the finest of these pieces, in my humble opinion,
are the Burning of the Borgo San Spirito, the Liberation
of St. Peter from Prison, and the School of Athens. In
the first, which covers the whole side of a room, is repre-
sented the conflagration of a part of Bome, adjoining the
Vatican, which happened in the pontificate of Leo IV.
The <Hstraction of the mothers, and the poor little naked
* " Che fofise quel presantuoeo ed ignorante, che aveva embrattati
que' volti V*— Lanzi, Storia Pittorica.
t Such is the gloominefls of these chambers, and the obscurity of the
paintings, that they never ought to be visited except early on a bright
clear day. £yen before tiro o'clock in winter, the light is lost for
them.
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BAPHASL*B CAHBHS. 40
clifldten clingmg to them ; the red raging of the flames on
the one hand, the terrified groups on the other— among
which, the people, like true Italians, instead of taking
measures to extmguish the fire, are falling on their knees
to implore the meduktion of the Pope, who appears, sur-
rcmnded with priests, far in the distance, at a window in
the palace, making the sign of the cross, bj which the flames
miraculouslj disappeared : — ^the woman with the bucket of
water — the men escaping naked over the wall — ^all are ad-
mirable.
The most strildng group is a family escaping from the
fire ; under which fiaphaei has introduced ibbieas, bearing
Ancfaises on his shoulders, and leading Ascanius in his
hand, while Creusa follows at a little oistance-^for ''the
pious iEneas^* — ^both in the poet's and the painter's repre-
Bentation of that event, whilst he took good care of himself,
his ^Either, and son, left his wife to shifb for herself.
The powerless hanging Hmbs, and the helpless feebleness
of the old man, are beautifuUy represented.
Every subordinate part is as perfect as the whole of
this great composition, without attracting attention imduly.
The very pavement of the street is inimitable.
This was the last, and perhaps the best of the frescos
painted by Baphael himself. The ceiling of this room is
painted by Pietro Ferugino, whose works, from respect to
ais master, Baphael refused to efl'ace.
• In another painting in the same room — ^the Coronation
of Charlemagne by Leo III., chieflv executed by B4iphaers
pupils, I was much struck with the beauty of the little
page. There is a contrast, too, between the youth and
smiling innocence of the boy, and the weight of cares and
woes one attaches to the idea of the crown he bears, that
perhaps adds to its effect. The head of one of the bishops
too — ^but we should never finish, were I to enumerate the
hundredth part of the beauties that delight me in these
frescos.
The head of Charlemagne is the portrait of Francis I. of
France, and that of Leo III. of Leo X.
The Justification and Purgation by oath of Charlemagne
before Pope Leo and his Cardinals, over the window in this
TOL. n. X
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M Boia.
duuuber, and the Deecent of the Sanoens upon Ostifl,
aire alao painted from Baphael'a deaignsy by his p\ipila. Not
BO tiie School of Athena, which waa evioeotly the work of
hia own handa. I cannot find worda aofficient to apeak m j
adnuration of thia wonderful nerformance, which ia, perhaps,
the fineat picture in the world, and one of the greateat and
moat pcxrfect productiona of mind. The akill of the com-
poaition— the art with which fifly-two figorea, all nearly of
equal importance, all philoaophera, all in the aame atyle of
dreaa, are arranged in one piece, without monotony, crowd-
ing, or confuaion — ^the character preaerved in each, the inte-
reat giyen to a cold achokatic diacuaaion— no praiae can do
it juatice, and without aeeing it you never can conceiye its
perfection.
On the atepa of a Ghrecian portico, atand Ariatotle and
Plato engaged in argoment, and each holding a yolume in
hia hand. Their diiMn^plea are ranged around, attentiyely
liatoiine to them. Beneath ia IHogeneB«-an inimitable
figure— ^iatleadj extended on the atepa. On the left, at the
top, ia Socratea, eameatly talking to young Alcibiadea, who
listena in a lingering aort of' attitude, aa if half aubdued by
the wiadom of the aae^e— half willing to tum away from it ;
acknowledging inwardly the truth of hia doctrinea— yet still
reaolyed to giye the reins tQ pleasure, and run the career
of gay enjoyment. I know not, howeyer, why the young
Grecian waa not made more handaome. The old man
beside him, with a cap on, listemng to Socratea, ia inimi-
table. Another looking oyer the ahoulder of I^hagoraa,
who ia wiitiug hia works, ia, if poaaible, atill finer. The
figure, in deep abatracted thought, leaning on his elbow,
with a pen on hia hand; Zoroaster holding a globe ; Archi-
medes (which, it is said, ia the portrait of Baphaera undo,
Bramante, the architect,) stooping to trace a geometrical
figure, with compasaea, on a alate on the ground, and the
mole group that surrounda him, are beyond all praise. In
the comer on the right, the figure with a black cap ia the
portrait of Baphael mmself, and that beside him, of Pietro
Perugino. Seyeral other figures are aaid to be likeneaaes
of hia contemporariea. But whateyer were the featurea ho
copied, he has giyen them that rhnntiber and -^
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BAPHAXL*S nESCOlfl. 81
wbich' exacdy snited his subject, togeUier with tbe Terj
truth of nature itself.
With siief do I say, that this inestimable work has suf-
fered still more than the rest, and I even fimcy that since
I first saw it, now nearly two years, some of the heads are
more defaced.
Opposite is the Dispute upon the Sacrament, the first
of these frescos which Baphael painted. Surrounding the
altar appear the four Doctors of the Soman Church,
attended by the Apostles and Blessed Saints, in hiffh dis*
pute^ and above their heads are seen in air the Patheri
the Son, and Holy Ghost, — with the Yirgin Mary, and John
the Baptist.
Above the window in this room, is painted, by Baphael
himself, Apollo, on mount Parnassus, encircled by the
Muses, and playing on the violin — ^I could have wished it
had been the lyre, especially since we were to see, not to
hear it. The whole group is beautiful, and the figure of
Sappho, reclining, below, peculiarlv so. Homer, Virgil,
Horace, Ovid, Dante, and many other great poets, appear
in t'he sacred choir. I had repeatedly passed many hours
in gazing at the walls in this room, before I thought of
looking at the ceiling, which is painted by Baphael hunself.
The figures of Philosophy, Poetry, Theolocy, and Justice;
and the pictures of Adam and Eve, of the Judgment of
Solomon, and of Marsyas and Apollo, amply repay the
fiktigue of contemplating them, which, j&om tneir position
and obscurity, is not small.
The ceiling in the next chamber is painted in chiaro
oscuro by Baphael, and aU the four paintings on the walls
are executed by himself. Th^ consist, first, of the Miracle
of Bolsena — in which the Beal Presence appears in the
eucharist, for the conversion of the unbelieving priest, who
is administering the sacrament, and who looks sufficiently
scared at this literal manifestation of the truth of tran*
substantiation. The next painting represents a miracle of
somewhat more importance, and doubtless of equal authen-
ticity. It is the meeting of Attik and his victorious army
on their progress to Borne, by St. Leo L, attended by his
train of priests on the earth, and by the Apostles St. Peter
a 2
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n BOIOL
and St. Paul in the sky,— «n apparition which immediately
frightened all the Huns back again. The figure of Attihi
is Teiy fine. Pope Leo I. is the portrait of Leo X., who
was rope when tuis fresco was painted.
The liberation of St. Peter from prison is one of the
finest paintings genius ever produced; but such is its
wretched situation, immediately above the great gothic
window which cuts into it, that its effect is, in a great
deme, lost, both from the bad light and the uncouth
awkwardness of its form.
This wall has been the bed of Procrustes, on which the pro-
ductions of genius have been stretched out or compressed.
As it is, this may perhaps be considered three paintings,
rather than one. In the centre, through the grated window
of the dungeon, is seen St. Peter in chains, and the angel
appearing to him, and commanding him to rise. The tran-
scendent glory that surrounds the head of the celestial
visitor, forms the sole light of the piece. Again, on the
right, at the prison doors, the angel appears leading forth
the apostle. Their figures, in both repetitions, are won-
derfully fine. On the left, (at the other side of the win-
dow,) are two soldiers, hasl^y descending; the steps leading
from the dungeon, in consternation and alann ; the moon
shining bright on their glittering armour, and shielding"
their eyes from the sudden blinding glare of the torch held
by their comrade at the foot of the stair, which falls full
on the face of 'another soldier, awakening from sleep — ad-
mirably expressed ! But vain is all description — ^vain would
be all- imitation. The veiy mechanism of this wonderful
picture — ^the variety of lights, the moonlight shining on the
distant coimtry, and on tne soldiers' arms ; the torch gleam-
ing on their mces ; and the two celestial lights emanating
from the presence of the angel, — are alone, in their manage-
ment and effect, a prodigy of skill and sdence.
We now turn to the last of the four paintii^ in this
chamber, the Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple by
Angels. The history is related in Maccabees. When
attempting to seize " the money laid up here for the hther-
less and widows, an apparition appeared — a horse with a
terrible rider, adorned with a very mir covering, and he ran
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BAPHA£L*B TBXSC0V8. 68
fiercelj and smote Heliodoms, and two jounj^ men, notable
in strength, excellent in beauty, and comelj in apparel, who
flcourged him continually." *
Nothing can exceed the rushing of the attack — ^the rapi-
dity of the onset — ^the magic that makes the action seem
to go on before your eyes.
The superhuman force and actiyity of the Tengeful mes-
sengers, strike you with awe ; but there is no exaggeration,
no violence, no overstraining. Pope Julius II. insisted
upon being brought into this scene, though it happened
at least eighteen hundred years before he was bom. So
Baphael was obliged to introduce him, and he appears at
the comer, borne in on his chair of state. Baphael nas ceiv
tainly done this group, (which, of itself, is a masterpiece of
painting,) the honour of painting^ it with his own hand, but
I doubt the executive part of the whole of the rest of the
picture being his, though it is generally reputed so.
In the fourth and kst chamiber, none of the paintings
are executed b^ Baphael, excepting the figures of Justice
and Mercy, painted in oils by himself; and, according to
Bome accounts, the last works of his hand. That grand
painting, the battle between Constantino and Maxentius, at
the Fonte MoUe, near Bome, designed by Baphael, and
painted after his death by Giulio Bomano, is worthy alike
of the master and the scholar. The colouring, indeed, has
the faults of his ^reat pupil,^-too much of that red hue,
that opaque brickmess, that general diffusion of lights, and
want of chiaro oscuro, that we see in his works; but it
is given with all his characteristic spirit and energy.
In this grand composition, Bapnael has successfullv tri-
mnphed over all tha confessed oifficulties of the subject.
It has all the action and hurry and movement of a battle,
without the smallest confusion. At one glance you see the
whole. The figure of Constantine, riding over the field on
his milk-white charger, at once catches your eye. Victory
sits on his crowned and lofby front, while the defeated
usurper, sinking in the stream, grappling, in his last con-
vulsive agonies, with instinctive desperation, the bridle of
* II. Msocabees, chap. iii.
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64 ROMl.
his spent and panting steed, forces you, shuddering, to gaze
upon its horrors.
In this room, and painted also by Giulio Bomano, is the
apparition of the Fiery Cross in the Heavens, which Con-
stuitine witnessed previous to the battle. Though excel-
lent in itself^ it is inferior to the battle. The rest of the
paintings in this room are executed bj other pupils of
Baphael, from his designs ; none, excepting the comer ngures
of the eight Popes, being by Qiulio Eomano. The roof of
iMa chamber was painted by an inferior artist many yeara
afterwards, and not from the designs of Baphael.
It may possibly interest you to know the order in which
Baphael painted his frescos. It was as foUows : —
1. The Dispute upon the Sacrament, intended to exemplify
Theology.
2. Jurisprudence, — exemplified on one side by the Em-
peror Justmian, who receives the Code of Laws from Tre-
Donian; and the other by Gregory IX., who delivers the
Decretals to a member of the Consistory, — painted above
the windows of the same Camera.
8. Mount Parnassus, with Apollo and the Muses, repre-
4. The School of Athens, representing Philosophy. After
finishing this great work, Baphael painted the Prophet
Isaiah, in the Augustine Church, and the Sibyls in SK
Maria della Pace. He then painted,
5. The Miracle at Bolsena, of the Beal Presence in the
euchaiist.
6. Heliodorus expelled from the Temple by the Angels.
After this, he painted the Cartoons for the Flemish Tapestry;
seven of which we have in England. Then returning to
the Yatican, he successively executed,
7. The Liberation of St. Peter fiK)m prison by the Angels.
8. Attila arrested in his progress to Bome by St. Leo,
with the apparition of St. Peter and St. Paul in the sky.
9. The Burning of the Borgo San Spirito.
I have passed over almost without notice, many of the
frescos, which I have spent hours, and I might add davs, in
studying and admixing, from the wish not to swell this
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SAPHAEJi's nxsooxfl. U
letter with vain and tedious descriptions. It is not for me
to attempt to praise the last and best works of this greatest
of painters. Little as, perhaps, I am able to estimate all
their merit and science, I have felt their perfection, and
drawn from their study a delie;ht which words can never
describe. It is impossible, indeed, to see works such as
these, without feeling the mind enlarged, and conscious of
higher ideas of beauty, of perfection, of moral dignitjr and
gower. That I have seen them — ^that their imsj^e is inde-
bly ez^graved upon my mind — ^will be, through life, a source
of unalienable pleasure to me ; nor would I part with their
veiy remembrance, for much that this world could bestow.
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86 Bom.
LETTER LVn.
The LoGana ov "Rapttaeti — The FAnrrnros nr the
Vjltioajbt.
I HATE but a few words to say on the Loggie of Bapliael ;
for, besides that enough has already been said and written
upon them — ^that they are decidedly inferior to the inimi-
table frescos of the Camere, painted at a much earlier
period, and for the most part executed from his designs by
his pupils — ^to enter into them at all, would require a
minuteness of detail that would be perfectly intolerable.
The first story consists merely oi ornamental paintings of
treillage, shells, flowers, Ac., wmch merit little notice. The
second comprises that series of pictures, from the creation
of the world to the crucifixion of our Sayiour, which has
sometimes been called Eaphaers Bible. These paintings
are on a very small scale. Each arcade, or hggiay or space
between two piUars, contains four, on the four sides of its
corered roof.
The first of these, which represents Gk)d the Father, in
the void of chaos, calling forth the world and the deep, is
unquestionably the woi^ of EaphaeFs own hand, and is
prodigiously extolled by connoisseurs. Michael Angelo
himself must have been struck with its sublimity, for he
exclaimed, that Baphael could never have painted it had he
not seen his own figure of the Eternal Eather on the roof of
the Sistine Chapel, from which, at his desire, Baphael had
been jealously excluded. No one, however, butliis rival,
will charge Blaphael with this petty pilfering. The work is
his own, whatever be its ments or defects. Eor my own
part, I confess, that I do not see in this, or in any of the
paintings of the Loggie^ that greatness of style, that eleva-
tion of thought, and wondrous beauty of expression, that
characterise ma later and better works ; nay, more, that this
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]UFHAXL*B nSSOOBB. 57
%iire of the Supreme Being, sprawling about, with his anns
and legs extended in evei^ opposite direction, so &r from
striking me with its sublimity, was so inexpressibly shocking
to me, that I turned from it with disgust.
The quadruple image of the Almighty fills the four com-
partments of this first Loggia, In one of these, painted by
&iulio Somano, he is represented with the sun iu one hand
and the moon in the other, kicking the earth to its place
with his feet.
Not even Baphaers pencil can reconcile me to any repre-
sentation of the Deity. Numa forbade the Bomans to re-
present the Divinity under a human form. It would have
Deen well had Christians obserred the same respect.
The Baptism of Christ, which is, I believe, almost the
only other picture of the Loggie executed by the hand of
Baphael himself, I admired the most of any. But the
examination of them is so peculiarly fatiguing, from their
number, and from ttie position into which it throws the
head, that I have not studied them with the attention they
deserve. On the whole, however, good engravings will give
give you a far better idea of the Loggie, than of most paint-
mgs, for their chief merit consists m their design and com-
position; the colouring is now much iujured by time and
exposure to the atmosphere.
The gidleiT of oil paintinc^s in the Vatican, in the Bor-
ghese Chambers, contains the two finest pictures in the
world — The Transfiguration of Baphael, and the Conmiu-
nion of St. Jerome of Domenichino. It is the fashion, I
believe, in consequence of Madame de StaeFs conunendation,
to give the preference to the latter. The fact is, that
Baphael is the first, and Domenichino the second, painter
in the world — and these are their master-pieces. But we
must not estimate the merits of the masters from these
works. The Conmiunion of St. Jerome equals, if not sur-
passes, any of Domenichino's frescos : — the Transfiguration
does not approach to those of BaphaeL The Transfigu-
ration, too, has suffered more from tmie, injuiy, and, above
all, restoration, and it is only to the eye that has the true
feeling for the highest species of perfection, that its supe-
riority will be manifest. The beauties of the. Communion,
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68 Bon.
whicli is in far finer preservation, are mncli more palpable^—
the action is one, simple and clear — and it is consequently as
much admired at the first si^ht as the last. But the Trans-
figuration will be far more admired the hundredth time than
the first. It is, besides, infinitely more difficult. Many
painters might have made a fine Communion of St. Jerome,
but who but Baphael could have painted the Transfigu-
ration!
The glorified — ^the super-human figure of our Saviour
transfigured in the clouds, is an attempt the most difficult,
I had almost said presumptuous, that was ever made in
painting — and, at the same time, perhaps the most suc-
cessful. It is, indeed, the triumph of gemus. I have neva*
seen it without the vain wish that it could be divested of
Moses and Elisha, on each side; but the truth of gospel
histoiy condemned Baphael to this. Look at the Trans-
figuration of our Saviour alone, without these accompanyiag
prophets, and you will better judge of its wondeiiul per-
fection.
It is somewhat strange to see the whole picture of the
Transfiguration — including the three apostles, prostrate on
the mount, shading their dazzled senses from the insuffer-
able brightness — occupying only a small part of the top of
the canvas — and the principal field filled with a totallv dis-
tinct, and certainly imequalled, picture — ^that of the demo-
niac boy, whom our Saviour cured on coming down from
the moimt, after his transfiguration. This was done in
compliance with the orders of the monks of St. Pietro in
Montorio, for whose church it was painted. It was the
universal custom of the age — ^the yet unbanished taste of
Gbthic days — ^to have two pictures, a celestial and a ter-
restrial one, wholly unconnected with each other; accord-
ingly we see few, even of the finest paintings, in which there
is not a heavenly subject above and an eartmy one below — ^for
the great masters of that day, like our ovni Shakspeare,
were compelled to suit their works to the taste of^their
employers.
Bomenichino lived in an age which had shaken off many
barbarisms — ^his angels are connected with the picture, and
look down upon the dying saint, whose &iling, trembling
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LOGGH OT THX TATICAir. W
limbs are Bupported, kneeling, in life's last moments, to
receiye the cup of Christ — ^with looks of sndi holy loye and
rapture, that we could not wish them away. I do not think
the Communion of St. Jerome equal to tne Transfiguration
— it is a work of less science, less difficulty, less complica-
tion, and less power; but I do think it the second painting
in the world, and perhaps the Murder of Peter the Martyr
is the third.*
Certainly, the unriTalled superiority of the great masters
of art cannot with justice be ascribed to the patronage they
met with. Domenichino received fiftjf Boman crowns-—
about twelve ^[uineas — for his Commumon of St. Jerome !
The cokmrmg of that great masterpiece, the Madonna
del Eoligno, in this collection, is the finest, perhaps because
the least imured, of Baphaers works. It may vie with
Titian. It has suffered in some deeree from Erench resto-
ration, but nothing compared with the Transfiguration.
Guide's Fortune, one of his beautiAil poetical thoughts,
is enchanting. You long to detain her, but it is vain. She
eludes your grasp, and poor little Cupid, who is pursuing
her through the ambient air, you see will be left in the
lurch. A sentimentalist might say, that Love seldom lays
hold of Fortune. But what shall we say to Love pursuing
Fortune so eagerly ? That it is in life as in the picture !
I have seen some duplicates, and many copies of this beau-
tiful work, in various parts of the world, but this is by far
the finest.
Andrea Sacchi's Dream of St. Bruno, is his masterpiece.
This saint, the founder of the Carthusian Order, had, it
seems, a dream, in which he saw a number of monks, in
long white fiannel gowns, eo up the steeps of the Apen-
nines ; in consequence of which the order was founded, and
Certo9a convents built all over Italy; and as painters in
those days had no choice as to their subjects, and were
obliged to paint what piety rather than taste, dictated—
Andbr^^ was ordered to paint this dream. There could not
well be a more unpromising subject; and it is wonderful,
that with all its disadvantages, — ^the want of action or
• The masterpiece of Titian, at Yeaioe.
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80 BOKIt.
interest, the unifonn wHte figures, db^ssed in garments of
the same hue and form, and ranged in a long row, — he could
produce such a capital picture as this.
Ghiercino's Santa Fetronilla* is a work of mat power
and science, and is justly considered one of the first master-
pieces of this great artist. His Incredulity of St. Thomas
IS very fine, and has all the breadth and force of effect,
without exaggeration, for which his works are so conspi*
cuous. His models are said to have been the heads of
peasants ; but, at least, there is nothing low or ignoble in
them. In Caravaggio we see both. We may turn to his
Deposition from the Cross, fine as it is, in proof of it. He
never painted anything without vulgarity — ^nor yet anything
without forcing us to admire it.
Titian's Martyrdom of St. Sebastian has been quite as
much commended as it deserves. The colouring; of the
saint, indeed, is beyond all praise. It lives and breathes.
But this very animation disunites it from the rest. It
seems a real figure amon? painted ones. It attracts the
eye entirely to itself, and by no means pleases it ; for it is
m drawn — absolutely mis-shapen. His model has been
bad, and he has copied it as closely in the form as in the
colouring. The expression of St. Catherine is fine ; but, on
the whote, the composition is but poor.
Barocci's Annunciation is esteemed his capo d'opera. In
my humble opinion, he never produced any capo d'opera
at aU. I have never been able to admire sufficiently the
peach-blossom colouring of this most affected and maniere
painter; but the generality of connoisseurs call it very
fine.
I have passed over the most part of the paintings at the
Vatican. Though not very numerous, they are all very
fine, with not more than one or two exceptions. But 1
know how tiresome all descriptions of paintings are, and
how often these have been described; and, therefore, I
abstain even from mentioning them.
I could wish they were in better lighted rooms, and
* After these Letters were written, this admirable painting was i^
moved to the Mufleum of the Capitol, and placed in a much better
light and situation.
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TATICAJT ICUSBinC. 01
Bhonld not be sony tliat they had frames; but chiefly, I
wish that the whole tribe of copyists, with all their lumber,
was kicked out. Both here, ana in the Camere of Baphael,
their huge pictures and sca^olds block up one's view of the
originals. Copying is an unfailing trade at Bome. Num-
bers Hve upon Saphael alone ; and it is amazing how well
these gentlemen often seem to be satisfied with their own
works. ^*^ Non e eattivay** (which, in Italian acceptation,
means very good indeed,) observed one, after comparing his
own daub with the Transfiguration. Another subscribed
to the compliment of a judicious friend, that his copy from
one of the frescos was tale quale with the original. And
3ret it was* an artist of rather more fame, who, in former
times, after repeated attempts to copy one head from the
School of Athens, threw away his pencil in despair, declar-
ing it was impossible.
I am now, once more, at the very entrance of the noble
galleries and halls, which form the Vatican Museum of
Sculpture — ^and yet I must not enter it. *Tis true, I have
^ven you only a hasty and imperfect sketch of my first
visit to the pmce where I have spent so many dehghtful
hours, or rather days ; but to describe it at all, 1 must write
volumes, and I therdbre forbear. Nor will I say anything
of our visit to it by torchlight, except that the masterpieces
of sculpture, in general, certainly appeared to far greater
advantage, and the inferior ones to less. You cannot be
said to see the Torso at all, if you only.view it by day-light.
Much depends upon the manner in which the torch is held.
In some lights even the Laocoon looked ill, though, in the
proper situation, it was beyond expression fine. The Apollo
requires to have the torch held behind it.
Nobody ever goes to see the Museum of the Capitol by
torch-light, though everybody makes a point of visiting the
Vatican; and yet, I daresay, the Dymg Gladiator would
have as fine an effect, tried by this test of sculpture, as the
Apollo and the Laocoon. But I believe I have never given
you any account of the noble Museum of the Capitol at all.
I will, therefore, do it in my next letter. Pew cities can
boast even of one fine museum of sculpture; but Bome
has three— the Vatican, the Capitol, and the Villa Albani.
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AS BOMJE.
LETTEELTin.
MirsEUH OP THE Capitol.
A siTGOEssioK of profound criticB, among whom is the
celebrated Winkelman, have written most Toluminously on
the Museum of the Capitol. But this very redundancy of
description annuls itself Pew will explore nine or ten ioHo
volumes, but all must wish for some account of one of the
finest collections of ancient sculpture in the world. There
is, however, no medium between a little dry two-pennj
catalogue, and these ponderous tomes; and, thou^ far
be from me the presumptuous thought of supplyiag the
deficiency, I will, as I hastily lead you through the noble
halls and galleries of the Capitol, point out, on the way,
a few of the most remarkable of its varied works of ancient
art and genius.
You enter the court, and discover, in the opposite recess,
the figure of Ocean, reclining, not upon his own vast plaina
of water, but upon a little Dubblin£^ fountain. This oriny
god was the ancient respondent of Fasquin, and, if report
says true, infused much attic salt into his pleasant replies.
According to some authorities, he is the Ehme ; but be this
as it may, this hoaiy &.ther of the flood is universally called
MarforiOf from havrng been found in the Via Marforio, the
name of which has obviously been corrupted from the an-
cient Forum of Mars. Near it are two satyrs, as Carya-
tides; three consular fasces (on the left wall), and two
Pagan sarcophagi, found in the catacombs (that receptacle
only of Christian martyrs), on one of which is inscribed the
portrait and name of the Pagan Boman whose remains it
contained. The Genius of Plenty, with the horn at its
feet ; marine monsters ; the chase of the wild boar and the
stag ; and such heathen devices, adorn these urns.
On the centre of the portico of the court, two long, lank,
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cdossal, and truly Egyptian figures of Icob, staro you in the
face. One of basalt has the modkim on its hea^ which is
coTered with hieroglyphics, as well as its shapeless back*
The other, which is of^red mmite, has the lotus flower on
its brow, and three figures of the Ibis, the sacied.bird of the
Nile, on its back.
The best statue I saw in this portico, was Diana looking
after the arrow she had just thrown. The spirit and atti-
tude of the figure are very fine. It expresses all the life
and freedom of the huntress of the woods. The diapery,
blown by the wind, displays to great adrantage the beau-
tiful buskined leg. Diana's petticoats, I must beg to ob-
serve, are always tucked up ; so that, you see, the Scotch
&8hion of the women kilting, is quite dassicaL
At the eztremily of this little portico is a pedestal, on
whicb is sculptured, in reHevo, the bound and captiTe per-
sonification of the proTince of Dacia, known by the axe she
bears. Beside it stands a fine firagment in pawmaaeHo
marble, of one of the statues of the captive Dacian kings,
that once adorned Trajan's Arch of Triumph. It was re-
moYcd by Constantine to his own arch, and from thence, by
one of the Popes, here. The full trousers of those captive
kings are exactly the Turkish dress of the present day-HSO
long do modes continue. There is also a still finer frag-
ment— ^the le^ of a Hercules trampling upon the Hydra.
The rude sculpture of the Wolf and the Twins, found at
Albano, seems to prove its antiquity, although we can
scarcely admit its claims to have adorned Alba Longa.
Adrian, as Pontife;x Maximus, is sacrificing, with the h^
uncovered — ^which, therefore, must have been to Saturn, for
to every other deity the priest was veiled.
The restorers have made fine work here. Ton wiU see
Polyphemus, notwithstanding his eye over his nose, trans-
formed into Pan — Muses and G-eniuses, which have be-
come celestial since their mutilation— one figure, by the
beh) of a cornucopia, transformed into Plenty, and another
dubbed an Immortality.
A warrior in complete armour and a long beard, usually
called Mars, is also called Pyrrhus, who, as well, as all the
Greeks of his day, it is well known, used to shave himselfl
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'Winkelman, liaving assigned this reason why it cannot be
Pyrrhus, very sagaciously conjectures that it is either
Jupiter or Agamemnon.* Now, though it is certain that
the Greeks did not begin to shave till the age of Pericles,
and that Jupiter never was known to shave at all, the as-
sumption that it is either the king of the gods, or the
" king of men," is purely gratuitous. It may just as well
represent an ancient Boman, as a Greek hero, n)r thej also
wore beards.t It is gravely related in history, that m the
year of Borne 454, barbers first came from Sicily to Borne,
and first began to shave the Eomans.^ Caligula used to
wear a aolden heard fixed to his chin.§ Hadrian, on account
of a blemish, allowed his beard to grow, and afterwards
beards grew common. This colossal statue is, however, at
all events, extremely interesting, from the minute details of
the martial accoutrements it bears. The weight of the
lorica, compressing the thick folds of the tunic, looks as if
the man encased m it could never have moved, much less
fou^t. It reminds one of the heavy coat of mail described
by Virgil, that two servants could scarcely hold, though,
under it, the swift Grecian did such execution —
'* LeYibuB hole hamis conflertoin auroqae trilioem,
Loricam,
• • • • •
Yix illam tunvli, Phegeos, Sagarisqne, ferebant
Multiplicem, connixi humeriB : indutus at olim
BemoleoB cursu palantes Troas agebat."
^n. V. 268
A whole room is filled with Egyptian sculpture, brought
from the Egyptian Temple, or Canopus, of Adrian's Vma.
•^Hiat. de TArt, Mr. vil. chap. 4 § 19.
t*Iii Beaaons of deep affliction, the BomaxiB at all periodB frequently
nBed to allow their bcArds to grow. Thus bearded statues may repre-
sent a Boman in any age, mourning the loss of friends or the reverBes
of fortune. A bearded head of Augustus on a fine cameo, noticed by
Winkelman, lib. ▼!. cap 6. $ 7. is supposed to represent him in grief
for the defeat of Yams and the three legions.
X Plutarch's Life of Camillus.
§ Suet. Calig. 52.
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XOTFTIAV okBIKET, W^
CanoptiB bimself, the Egyptian Neptune,* has the lotos
flower on his little head — and is of black basalt.
In this room, all the sculptures in basalt are ancient
Egyptian. The rest, in nero amtieo marble, which look,
from their beauty and dazzling polish, as if fresh from the
artist's hand, are of the age of Hadrian. Of the latter class,
are the beautiful conjoined heads of the Sun and Moon, or
Osiris under the form of Apis and Isis ; and both are ex*
quisitely finished. The hawk-headed divioity, the tutelar
or guardian god we see so constantly on the hieroglyphical
monuments of the Egyptians, whether in painting or sculp-
ture— on tbeir mummies or their statues — ^is also supposed
to be Osirist represented with a hawk*s head, from the sup-
|)08ed power of the hawk's eye to fix its gaze upon the sun ;
m consequence of which, even among the Ghreeks, the hawk
was sacred to Fhoebus.t Serapis, whose image is also here,
was undoubtedly the true Serapis, the Egyptian Pluto.
This statue was first imported into Egypt from Sinope, in
Pontus, in consequence of a vision of one of the Ptolomies.§
His worship was not received in Eome till the reign en
Antoninus Pius. He bears the modius on his head, as an
emblem of fecundity. Here is an Isis, with a wis of pea-
cock's feathers, which also bears the modius on its head.
Anubis, the Egyptian Mercury, with his canine head, is the
only deity in white marble. He bears both the cistrum
aad the caducous, and is also of Hadrian's age. Certainly
these works are greatly relieved from the straight, stretchecU
out, perpendiculsor rigidity, of the true Egyptian sculpture.
* CanopuB, which was the name of one of the mouths of the Nile, was,
in fact, nothing but the vase, in which its waters, at the annual inunda*
tion, were carried in the religious rites. But from the propensity of
the Egyptians to deify everything, it was worshipped as a god of great
importance, and had a beautiful little human &ce, which surmounted
the vase. It does not appear to have been of very high antiquity ; for^
if we may believe history, this mouth of the Nile itself received its
name from Can opus, a Spartan pilot, who was buried on the spot at the
time when Menelaus was driven on the coast, and in memory of whom
a city was built.— Tacitus, Ann. lib. IL cap. 60.
t Kircher, tom. iii. 601. % Odyss. v. 626.
§ Vide Tacitus, Hist. lib. iv. cap. 83, 84. Civ. Div. 2. 69.— Pau.
tanias, iib. i. cap. 18. lib. ii. cap. 84.
VOL. II. " ' ' t ■■
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ThiMi people- BOMEad to. hma much resembknoe ta tbe^
CbineBe in their worb^.a^ much of their stationary and^
unprogresfiiTe charficter. Tb&j made no advaocea in »rt;
and, indeed, where anatomi^ was a subject o£ religious mj»^^
t&jj, aod an incision made into a dead bodj accounted worse,
than murder— excellence in the representatio);i of the human,
form was manifestlj unattainable.* It. always seemed to,
be their aim, to make men as. much as- possiple like mui»-.
niies. Their images:— for I cannot call them Bt9^esr--*^had.
never any: princijue of life; far less. did. they bear any-ap*
proach to freedom, or grae% or eispression, . <»: momenta^,
action. Their stiff, upxight figuresy their long baboon anns^
hanging close to their aides ; their liu^e flat feet, tbeir mut^
insensible faces, their unformed limbs> destitute of all. acti'^
oulation of joints and musdes, remixed op^ rather of tlve
first rude attempts at sculpture tban^of its &usbed state. .
The Sgyptians might give the art. of sculpture to tbe^
Greeks, but theirs was oi^y the lifeless figure of : day. . 11?
was the Greeks who staruck the promethean spark, that.gavo
it life.
During the enlightened reigns of the Ptoleipies, however,
Alexandna livaUed Athens, and the artists even of Greece^
received in their courts that asylum and. paitronage, whid^
their own exhausted and oppressed country could no.long^
afford.
Beyond the !E!gyptian room, is a damber filled with in<^
aoripmonS) f^oiibracing tiie whole period of the Boman empire^
firom Augustus to Theodosius* Here stands the Columni^
MiUiarium, an ancient Boman marble mile-stone, with two
inscriptions, one in Latin, the other in Greek. A pedestal,
of the finest style of Greek sculpture, represents the labours
of Hercules' ; and, on the sepulchral cippus, and also cm a
column, I observed all the ancient instruments used in
architecture, and in,mensuratiou— the trowel, the hammer,
* Vide Winkelman, Histoire de TArt, liv. ii. cap. i. § 9, who quotes
Diod. Siculus, 1. L § 91. The embalming of the dead among the
Egyptians was intrusted to one family, and transmitted from father to
to son. It is related, that these operators, after having finished their
work, were generally obliged to ran away, from the childish rage of the
relations at the necessaiy incisions that had been made for this pnipose
in the corpoQ of the deceased.
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fbe compasses^ i^& plummet, and tlie qnadraDi,' Sbo: exms&j '
such as we use at the present day.
The hist room contaiiisi the greats marble Bsrcopha^asj in
wMch was found the Barbeirini— or the Poridand Va«e*,- as j
it was called from its possessor, the Duke of Portland. The >
subject represented on that eicjuisitely beautiful vase^ which:
has excited so much speculatLon^ is. supposed, by, the 'best)
critics, to be the story of- Peleus and Thetis^. who metaanoiv.
i^iosed herself into a: serpent. to escf^ the;puxamt of ber
lover.
The sarcophagus itsdf,from two figures, of badlaonlpture,,
at the top, has been called the twnbof Alenoinder QeyenMy ,
and Mammea, his mother. But Winkelman obserres,. that,
ae the -man r^resented. here is at least fifty, and Alexander >
Sevenis was murdered before . he was thirty, l^s is i impos- •
sible. It is more reasonably supposed to be the tomo of]
the parents of Alexander Severus. The bassi rilievi, .on^he .
four sides, are of yaxying degrees of excellence. . The fronts
which is very fine^ represents the contest betwe^i Achilles r
and Agamemnon at i the departure of Ohryseis for Briseis;^.
The trembling maid,. the assembled Greeks, the noble figures,,
the contending passious expressed by their action, . and,.
thove all, ths.traoiqmrt of Adiilles, whose uplifted am is;
withheld by Mineira, are admirably sculptured.
On the side next I the window, the fair caplive is leaying'
i^ tent withtlie.heraM& The scul|)to7 has aimed at giving
erven a stronger interest to this partmg scene; than the poet)
who describes her,
" Oft looking: buck, slow moving o'er the strand,'
by the ^qyression of longing regret which she. throws upon-
her departing lover, whose horse is held by. his : attendants..
The third side, which repreeentib the Gf^reeks supplicating
Achillesto revenge the death of Patroclus, is of very inferiooR
sculpture; and the fourth — ^the principal actions of Achillea
-—is iqpparently the work of a barbarous ^ageu.
]jx this apartment there is a. vexy^ cunous insciiptioniis:
* It WM. placed in the British Hueeum, where it was wantonly
destroyed by a visitor, who dashed it to pieces, some years after this
work was first published.
p 2
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68 BOHX.
the PalmyTeaii langaage, the only one I ever met witli^
m^y of tne letters are tmknown.
While my companions were admiring an ancient mosaic,
representing Love conquering Force, or little Loves mounted
on the subdued Lion, I was much amused with a curious
basso relievo of one of the Qalli, Cjbele's vagabond priests,
(supposed to be the Archigallus,) in full costume, and sur-
rounded with all the symbols of her worship.
"While examining them, I could not refrain from specu-
lating upon what had become of the sacred simulacrum of
Cybele, which the Somans having obtained by humble sup-
r£cation, transported by solemn embassy from Phiygia to
Kome. Li the early ages of Greece, not only Cybele, but
all its deities — Bacchus, Venus,* Cupid, and even the
G-races themselves, were represented and worshipped under
the forms of shapeless masses of stone. The combined
figure in the Zodiac, which still designates Castor and
Pollux, shows that they were ancientlv adored under the
form of two parallel sticks connected together.t What
strikes me with admiration in this is, that in the very
iiifancy of society, while the arts were unequal even to the
rudest imitation of the human form, such abstract and
Soetic ideas as those of Beautv, of Love, of Grace, of that,
evoted affection which could make an immortal ^resign
immortaUW, or share it with the being he loved J — of " the
Common Mother," of man, and of creation, — should ever
have been conceived at all — ^much less generallv adopted
and worshipped. The origin of the Grecian mythology, its/
high antiquity, and the complicated and refined ideas it
involves, considered in a philosophical light, would form a
very interesting subject of inquiry. But to proceed on our
way through the Museum of the Capitol.
On the staircase, are the twen^-six fragments of the
ancient plan of Bome, which formed the pavement of the
Temple of Eomulus and Bemus, or the Church of S. S..
Cosmo and Damiano. BLalf way up, is one of those nume-
zous statues, generally called Modesly — ^the head veiled, and
* See the description in Tacitus of the Paphian Venus,
t Winkelman, Hist, de I'Art, liv. i. t PoUux,
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AimQITB BUSTS. 09
t^e %ure enyeloped, but not concealed, in the thin, trans-
parent, clinging oraperj. They used to go by the name of
■yestals, and are now supposed, like all veiled statues, to be
sepulchral figures.
In the gafiery, you will stop to admire the striking, but
.disgusting figure of an old, drunken, screaming Bacchante,
grasping with both hands a skin of wine ; the deep despair
of the abandoned Psyche ; one of the finest of the oiaughters
of Niobe ; the torso of a Discobolus, restored as a SiUing
'Gladiator; the head of Jupiter Ammon ; the sarcophagus,
with the bas relief of the Eape of Proserpine ; but more
particularly, the in&nt Hercules stranglmg, without an
effort, the serpents — ^which has always seemed to me a
beauti^ allegory of Innocence destroying Evil.
Here we have the bust of Scipio Africanus — of whom I
have seen at least six heads, dinering from each other in
everything but ugliness ; for evefj bust marked with a scar
is invariably called the bust of Scipio ; but as this is inscribed
vrith his name, and resembles the bust of green basalt of
the Palazzo Eospigliosi, which was found in the ruins of
Lintemum, we may contemplate it with the hope, at least,
that we really behold the portrait of that truly great
Itoman.
Here, too, we have a bust of Brutus — ^though he who had
dared to preserve the head of the assassin of C»8ar, would
probably not long have retained his own on his shoulders ;
another of Pompey may be genuine, though his nose is
somewhat apocryphal;* a third is called Cato the Censor,
though we have not even tradition to help us to his phy-
siognomy— ^and many more of the famous heroes of the
Bepublic, which nothing could prevent us from contem-
•platiQg with the deepest interest, except the conviction that
they are all impostors.t But the fine colossal bust of
Mflurcus Agrippa is both beautiful and authentic. Here,
* I mean compared with the medal, the impression of which may be
seen in Mafiei Bac. di Stat. tav. 127. Neither does it bear the smallest
resemblance to the statue at the Palazzo Spada.
+ Once for all, I must notice the mortifying truth, that, with scarce
an exception, there is no authority for any head of Republican date,
Pompey,— and even he is dubious.— as &r as I remember, is the sole.
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too, is a bust you wotdd, perhaps/bardlj expect to see,
that of Cecrope, King of Athens !
I' observed a sarcophagus, the sides of which are sculp-
tured with the education of Bacchus, and his &rst adoration,
after having planted the vine ; and in the centre, a most
curious representation of a sport celebrated in his honour,
in which a party of men are jumping upon a skin, swelled
out with wine,>and well oiled ; while old Silenus is laughing
at aa unlucky wight who is sprawling on the ground.
On a votive altar, of vile sculpture, which now serves fete
- a pedestial to a statue of Jove, you see the Vestal Claudia,
• drawing after her the vessel containing the simulacrum of
Cybele.
Two rooms on the right of the galleiy, contain a laosb
enterfcaining variety of inscriptions, marbles, bronzes, vases,
&c. Ac. Of these I shall mention very few ; but I cannot
altogether pass over aibeautiM bronze vase, found in the
sea at Antium, which, as the inscription upon it proves, was
given by Mithridates, King of Pontus, to the CJollege of
Grymnasiarchs. There is also a noble G^reek marble vase,
which gives to the room its title of Stanza del Vaso, en-
circled with its sculptured foliage. of vines, which was found
among the ruined tombs of the Via Appia — ^as if the spirits
of the ancient Eomans had been quaffing nectar from its
brim. It is placed upon a marble pedestal, sculptured with
the twelve great goos — a work which Winkelman enume-
rates among' the very few undoubted monuments of Etruscan
.art. He remarks, that Vulcan, who appears young, and
without a beard, is armed with a hatchet, with which he ia
preparing to. cleave Jupiter's skull, in order to help Minerva
out; exactly as the birth of Minerva is Tepresented on the
Etruscan pateras. But in those Jupiter is always sitting;
here he is standing : nor eould I trace -any design of break-
ing his head on the part of Vulcan : not to mention that it
seems wholly unnecessary, as Minerva is already out, and
'appears on ner legs in this procession of deities. This
curious piece of ancient sculpture has apparently served as
the mouth of a well, for the marks, worn l)y the cords, are
. still distinctly visible. Thus, the ancients, with true refine-
ment 4aid taste, carried the embellishment of the Pine Arts
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THI ILIAO TABUB. 71
'eren'to^the bomblert eonreniencai of '^domestic Ufe. The
• meanest utensil was elegant in its form — ^the poorest ear-
ment graceful in its fol£ and drapery — and the prodigiJity
of painting and sculpture, with which not only tneir»streets
• and public buildings, but their private habitationB were
adorned, may well raise our wonder and our shame. Nor
were they ^nfined to patrician wealth. The humble dwel-
lings of an obscure little country sea-port, such as Hercu-
laneum or Pompeii, were adorned with jpaintings of ex-
quisite beauty, and filled with statues which must be for
ever- the admiration of every countiy and every age; while,
in London itself^ the modem metropolis of t^e world, over-
flowing with wealth and luxuiy, scarcely one of the private
houses of its wealthy citizens can boast a single piece of
scolptttre. However opulent, however prodigal, nowever
kourious, it is rarely on works of art that Englishmen
lavi^rh their wealth. Nor is it their cost that renders them
now unattainable ; for, strange as the het may seem, aneieiit
sculpture ^etually bore a higher price among the ancients
themselves, th^ai it does even in the present day.* Yet,
notwithstanding the extravagant price of statues m ancient
times, we hear of one hundred and sixty different statues of
bronze being ereeted in one year to one man f at Athens.
^But to return from Athens, whither this long digression
hasr carried us, to the Museum of the Capitol— I must not
pass unnoticed the &mous Iliac table. A jovial priest,
who was out huntiDg, found it on the Ap|>ian ^ay, at *a
pkce * called Mle m-aUoehie^X where, it is believed, the
Smperor Ckudius had a villa, and this remarkable^ bas relief
a»ifiupposed>to be a work of his reign.§ It is only a small
s^^dare slab Of marble, though it has made so much noise in
t^e world ; 'and upon it are sculptured the principal aetiona
of 4!he Biajd, with an explanatory inscription inGrreek, which
■)x»A been so often translated and commented upon, that it is
• Hist. deTArt, liv. iv. 7,§ 61.
t Ddmeiritia^f Phalerias. Vide Riny, L ocxxiv. cap. 6.
X Fonnerjy Bovillae, where the murder of Clodius by Milo is sap-
'j^osed to hate happened.
% Winkelman, Hist, de TArt. liv. iv. chap. 2. The. engraving and
full ezplanaUonirillbe foimd in^FogS:im'Mas. Capit'L iv. tav. 68.
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72 BOMX.
•not necessajry for me to say anything about it; a dicom-
Btance that is peculiarly fortunate, as I do not understand it.
Diana Tr^ormtM is a small bronze sculpture, as light and
portable-looking as a child's plaything; the three figures
joined together, back to back, iu the form of a small tnimgle.
This goddess certainly forms the Pagan trinity. She is three
in one — here she appears in hell, on earth, and in heaven,
at once : — ^as Proserpine, crowned with the six rays of the
planets, a serpent in one hand — as Hecate, her brows bound
with laurel, holding a key — as Diana Ludfera, a lotus flower
on her forehead, and bearing a torch. In aJl these varied
characters — ^in the chaste huntress, and in the motionless
Ephesian idol incased like a mummy in mystic symbols, who
can recognize the same goddess P
Here is a bronze foot of the colossal statue of Gaius
Cestius ; a bronze inscription of Sep. Sererus and CaracaUa,
(the name of Geta erased,) a triumph of Bacchus, columns,
busts, bassi-reKevi, cinerary urns, minute images in bronze
and alabaster of gods and goddesses ; ancient tripods and
candelabras ; besides a hun(&ed little other interesting an-
tiques which will catch your eye.
I noticed a statera, with its weight, exactly like our steel-
yard, which I had no notion was so classical a thing.
In the wall of this room is the famous JEkirietH mosaic,
found by the Cardinal of that name at Hadrian's Villa,
representing four doves, perched on the brim of a large vase
or basin, filkd with water, one of which is drinking from it.
Simple as the subject is, the taste of the design is most
beautiful. It answers so exactly to Pliny's description of
the &mouB Mosaic of Sosus, in the temple of Per^amus,
that if not the original, which I confess I do not beheve, it
must at least be considered a copy. Winkelman* denies its
originality, from the diflBculty of transportation, a reason we
can scarcely hold valid ; but his commentator observes very
justly, that as Hadrian was remarkable for his careful pre-
servation of ancient works of art, encouraged their imitation,
and emulated their perfection, but never carried them off
from their proper possessors and situations, (unlike oyr
* Winkelman, Hist, de 1' Art, Uv. vi. chap. 7.
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i&odera patrons of the arts,) it is mucli more probable
that he caused the beautiful mosaic of Sosus to be copied
hj the best artists of his own time, than that he tore it
up from the Temple of Fergamus, to embellish his own
palace.
There is a sarcophagus in this room, adorned with a has
relief of wretched sculpture, perhaps of the fourth or fifth
century, but the subject of which is very curious. It repre-
sents the whole Promethean creation of man. First, we see
Prometheus moulding the figure out of clay, while Minerr a
is iofusing into the lifeless mass, the spirit, in the form of
a butterfly. Cupid and Psyche embracing each other, also
represent the union of the body and soiu. The four ele-
ments necessary to the life of man, surround them, and are
personified by jEoIus blowing his airy horn — Ocean, with
the monsters of his watery reign — ^Vulcan at his fiery forge,
and the "Common Mother," raising her breast above the
ground, with a cornucopia in her hand. Man then appears
endowed with life; and the three implacable Fates, who
attend him fi*om the cradle to the tomb, start up by his
side. He is laid low iq death. The G-enius of life, weeping
over his corpse, extinguishes his torch. The soul, bursting
upwards on its butterfly wings, is conducted to heaven by
Mercury. Lastly, we behold Prometheus sufiering the
gnawing anguish of remorse, or the vulture preying on his
vitals. It is destroyed by Hercules. Will it be deemed
pro&ne to find ia tms a type of our Saviour's conquest over
the penalty of sin ?
There is a whole room fiUed with the busts of the em-
perors and their families, nearly complete. Even Com-
modus, an admirable bust, notwithstanding the decree to
destroy every image of him, is here ; and the unfortunate
Geta, in spite of the labours of his brother and murderer
to erase even his name from the earth, still stands by his
side, as if haunting him in death. The busts of G-erman-
icus, of Nero, and of Poppsea, are exquisitely beautiful.
The contrasts of the countenance between Nero young, and
Nero in more advanced life, will strike you forcibly ; the
beauty of the innocent fiice of Annius V erus will charm
you; and the hideous head of Julian the Apostate will
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74 BOIDB.
puzzle yon to detenniiiie wliethflr the secd^ture or Ae
subject is the woTSt. The hend of Otho, which is here, is
extremely rare. THbe fine bust of l^erra, which has been
erroneously reported to be modem, is a genuine antiqtie.
So is the head of Yitellius — ^though most of the busts of
that emperor are modem.
You will never be satiated witii admiring the noble seated
statue of Agrippina, the wife of G^ermanicus. Yet the
Agrippina of Naples is perhaps superior even to this. It
realizes our highest conceptions of the august dignity of an
ancient Boman matron.
The bassi relievi on the walls, of Perseus liberating
Andromeda, and Endymion sleeping, are full of grace and
beauty.
The bassi relievi in the next room, (the Stanaa de* M-
losofi,) from their subjects, rather than their execution^
afforded me great entertainment. Among them are, 'a
woman teachu^ a eat to dance, while she plays upon the
lyre to it; poor Grimalkin trying aU the time vaialy to
reach two birds suspended over its head — Calliope teaching
Orpheus to play upon the lyre, before the image of a man^
whom the strains seem to animate with life— Esculapius
and Hygeia laying their heads together ; and, in the next,
the consequences not uncommon of such consultations, — a
funeral procession. There are many more ; but I was paas
ticularly struck with the tragedy of the death of Meleager.
The uncles, pierced with their death-wounds, — ^his inftiriated
mother burning the fetal brand, to which the life of her
son is attached, — ^his faintin? form felling on the couch,
and his beloved Atalanta vainly weeding over him,— alto-
gether form a subject of the highest interest, but which is,
perhaps, better adapted to painting than to sculpture;
though no modem painter could do it justice.
In the middle of the room is placed an exquisitely bean*
trful little bronze statue of a youth, seated in a meditative
posture, — a model of juvenile beauty. It is supposed to
represent one of the twelve Oamilli,^
As to the philosophers, some of the 'most iiiteresting, mich
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BUSTS OT PHtLOSOPHXBS. 75
88 Yirgjl, and Cicero,* and Seneca, are purely sapposititioQB.
There is not a head of any poet or f^osopher of ike
Augartan age, that \9e kaaw to be geniime. The authen-
ticity of some of the Greeks is ascertained, either from
faayijBg been fbund with the ancient inscriptions of their
xuimes upon them, or from being prototypes of others to
authenticated. The Homers, for there are seyeral, are the
very heads your fimcy would pourtray for the old blind
baid, the father of poetry. I understand they were iden-
tified with the apotheosis of Homer, formerly in the Colonna
palace ; and if (which is probable) no bust was really taken
of him in life, this seems, at least, to have been the head
cuirent among the ancients as Homer ; just as the post-
humous, picture of Shakespeare passes among us. Aristides
is known from the incomparable statue at Naples. Socrates
cau nerer be mistaken. Metradorus, Epicurus, PLndar,
Aiiacreon,'aiid some others, are also ascertained. The little
bronze and bearded bust of Demosthenes, found in Hercu-
laneum, has identified the great orator. Sappho had a
good right to be here; but how Cleopatra t got among
these Grecian sages, we cannot guess. Her neighbour,
Aspasia, was too much in their company, when alive, to be
turned out of it now. The Flatos are all recognized to be
the heads of barbarians, notwithstanding their philosophic
name inscribed below. The last of these busts, that of
^aerao, an architect of Cremona, is one of the (now) rare
works of Michael Angelo. I dare not tell you, that I think
I hare seen finer busts, by less celebrated hands, and there-
fore I will say nothing of it.
In the great hall, one is struck with the modesty of
Clement XII., in haying taken two Victories, from the
Triumphal Arch of Marcos Aurelius, to support his coat
of arms! It must, indeed, be acknowledged that the Popes
want no tnnnpeter. Every little thing they make or mend,
be it a wooden door, or a leaden cistern, or a few etone
* ItlareUted that a mddal was fomid of Cicero; but all the busts
tnd-iUktiiM which bear the name of that great orator are now acknow-
ledged to be impositions.
1 1 need scarcely obserre, there is no anthoriiy for the name this
host snd many of the others bear.
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76 BOKB
steps, or a little bit of brick wall, is marked with their
mun^enza I These multiplied mtmifieenzd's of every Pope,
as far as large gilt letters can prove it, stare you in the face
in Eome, on all sides, wherever you go.
By their mtmificenza — two columns of giallo antico, from
the neighbourhood of the tomb of Cecilia Metella, support
the principal niche. But the sculptures in the middle of
the room first attract the eye. Jupiter, iq nero antico
marble, is, after all, but poor ; and, indeed, I have never
anywhere seen a fine statue of the great thunderer. Escu-
lapius is no better. The young Hercules (veiled) inpietra
paragoncy* found on the Aventine, looks fat and puflfr, rather
than strong ; but the famous Furietti Centaurs 1 admire
extremely; indeed more, I suppose, than I ought; for
Winkelman (and, of course, all the critics echo hun) gives
them small praise, though he does not mention in which
way they displease him, and only observes, that the^ have
have anciently borne children on their ba<^s, which is evi-
dent from the holes. The oldest, who bears the pedum in
his hand, is thought to be Chiron carrying Achilles on his
back, to instruct him in horsemanship and the chase. He
looks back at the infant hero with a joyous and triumphant
air. The other is dejected, and apparently vanquished ; his
hands are bound behind his back. I was much charmed
with the life and spirit, the action, the freedom, and the
grace, of these two beautiful Centaurs. They are of dark
grey marble, were found in Hadrian's villa, and are inscribed
witn the names of two G-reek artists, supposed to be of his
own time.
A fine, but imknown consular statue, is foolishly called
Marius, though, from his countenance, his air, and his
action, it is obvious that he is an orator and a philosopher ;
and the rude, imlettered soldier was neither. Some critics
call it a sepulchral figure.
The Amazons are fine. One of the heads is modem;
both, as usual, represent wounded Amazons. Indeed, so
dose is the resemblance between all these statues, that we
cannot but suppose they have been all taken from one or
* Commonly called touch-stone.
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mrssuM OT ths oapitol. 77
two celebrated ancient models, as well as most of the Fauns,
Dianas, Yenuses, Cupids, Baccbuses, &c., which, without
variation of attitude or conception, crowd every museum.
There were three rival statues of Amazons, — ^the productions
of Ctesilaiis, Polycletes, and Phidias, — the fame of which
has come down to our times.
The drapery of the fine Grrecian statue of Isis, in this hall,
knotted on the breast, and falling in graceful folds to the
feet, is singularly beautiful. She wears the fringed peplvm^
or mantle, to denote her eastern extraction — the Grecians
wore it plain. AU the statues of this goddess, in white
marble, are of the time of the Empire, after her worship
was adopted in Some, and are, for the most part, the work
of Greek artists ; but this is by far the finest.
The ancient bronze (and once gilded) Hercules, found in
or near the Eorum Boariimi, with his head too small for his
body, looks rather awkward and ungainly.
The old shrivelled crying crone — whether she be a Frte^
fica* a Hecuba, or any other of the innumerable descrip-
tions of ugly old women, it is possible she may be — is cer-
tainly good of the kind, that is, well executed, though a
disagreeable subject. I must pass by Antoninus Pius, with
the civic crown he deserved so well ; the Altar of Fortune,,
on which that goddess, who is now as ever the object of
men's worship, is represented, seated on her throne, crowned
with her diadem, holding in her left hand the cornucopia,,
and in her right the rudder with which she turns the
world. I must pass by the pedestal on which the birth
and concealment of Jove — the stupidity of old Saturn, in
swallowing a stone instead of his son — the din raised by
the Gorybantes to stifle his cries — ^the care taken to suckle
him by his four-footed nurse Amalthea — and, finally, his
exaltation to the throne of heaven, are all very minutely
represented. I must pass by many things — ^but I must
stop for one moment at the finest stsitue in this room, and
one that has never received its due share of encomium.
It is the fine figure of a man speaking, with drapery round
the lower part of the body only, in an easy graceful attitude^
* This is not probable, because these hired mourners had their haif
^^Btreaming to the troubled air," andthis old woman has hers boimd up*
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78 xoiCEv
one foot resting on a nosed stoistt or step,- and: liifl finger^
held up as if to enforce attention. It is called a professor:
of the ^nmastic art, or the master of an academy, of gla^/
diatorS) instructing his disciples. It is an admirable statue^
and unique; but Haxpocrates, that little mysterious god^,
with his brimming cornucopia in his hand, his brow adorned •
with the lotus flower, and his expressive flnger pressed upon
his lip, enjoins me silence. Plainer than words. can speak,,
his gesture tells me how fat and flourishing he has grown:
hj holding his tongue. I dare say you. wish I would foUow ?
his example; but few. of my sex ever did, and I shall go-
on to talk of the room where the jocund Faun, (in rosso,
antico,) eyeing the tempting bunch, of grapes, which he-
holds suspended in his hand, and surrounded with his goat,,
his pedum, and his basket, looks the happiest of created
beings; But notwithstanding the symmetry of his finely*
formed limbs, you will soon turn from him to one of the.
finest statues m the world — Cupid bending his bow. Its
unrivalled grace, its faultless perfection, and its truly celes-
tial beauty of form, are indeed a. triumph of art.. The.
Apollo Belvidere, and a few other great statues excepted^
I am disposed to think this one of the finest exempHficationa
of the beau-ideal in existence. It is an ancient copy from
the famous masterpiece of Praxiteles, of Cupid benoing his
bow, which was destroyed in the age of Titus. I have.seen
one copy in England, and there is another in the YiUa
Albani ; but this is incomparably the finest. It is one of
the few statues that I can return to ^e at, day after day,
with still increasing delight and admiration. I am no con-
noisseur,^— ^but few, very lew, I believe, receive more pleasure
fit)m works of art, whether in painting or sculpture, when. of
first-rate excellence.
I was delighted with the beauty and pkyfrd sweetness, of
a smiling girl with a dove, — ^a personification of Innocence;
a child playing with a mask ; and, more especially, an: urchin
struggling with a swan, which Winkelman instancesjas. a
peculiarly beautiful sculpture of infancy;
One of the finest hassi reldevi in the world — ^the;battIe,of
the Amazons — ^is on a sarcophagus. in this room. Critics
all. agree,, that the generality oi sarcophagi,, (aud^, indeed.
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THB DYWQ GXASIATOB. 79)
of bav-rdiefs^ wUch for the most part haxe , been cut out of
the sides of sajrcophagi,) a^^ works of the declining periods,
of art.; but this. beautiM piece of sculoture is an exception.
Opposite to it stands, aaother saccopnagus, well worthy of
Dotioe, though of very inferior sculpture.. It represents,
the noctunm visits of Diana to the sleeping Endjmion.
The goddess descends . from her car, led oj the Lgyes, a:
winged Genius restrains the fiery steeds. At the other
end, bj a liberty common to basso relievo, she mounts it,
again to depart, casting ba^ck her looks of love on the un-
conscious shepherd, over, whose drooping form moth-winged;
dumber still hovers, ^e Earths—personified in a female
form, whose bust is raised above the ground, beneath the.
wheels of Diana's car— and a man tiding Endymion's flock^
complete the composition.
Hheare is a very amusing bas-relief here of the Triumph
of Gtipid over the Gods. It. seems to have formed a part of
a fiieee, and is left imperfect. We see, first, a car drawn
hyramS) in. which this roguish god is carrying off the spoils
of Mercury; then follow, in a car drawn by stags, those of
the chaste. Diana herself; in a car drawn by tigers, those of
Baochus; and in another drawn by hippognfis, those of
ApoUo.
I must, not quit this room, without mentioning a more
recondite, though less amusing, paece of antiquity^— the
table, of bronze, on which is inscribed the " royal law,"
found near St, John Lateran's,. in which the Boman Senate
decrees to Vespasian supreme power.
You now enter the last room, in which you will, for a long
time, see nothing but the Dying Gladiator. It is, of its
kind, the finest statue in the world. The learned connois-
seur, and the untaught peasants, whom you may see as-
sembled round it on Sundays, are equally struck with its
&idtless perfection. It is one of the finest of forms, as far
as mere corporeal formation can go ; but," unlike most of the
celebiated works of ancient art, there is no ideal beauty,
no expression of those high qualities and attributes, that
spring from the soul. It is nature, pure nature, that
arrests so forcibly our deepest sympathy. It is not a god
nor a hero, but a man — and a man of servile condition and
unelevated mind — ^that we behold. The coaraeness. of the
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80 boms;
features and the whole expression of the head and figure
prove it. The hands and the soles of the feet are hard and
homy with labour, and a rope is knotted round the neck.
He seems endeavouring to suppress the expression of agjony;
not a sigh, not a ^an escapes him ; unsubdued in spirit, it
is his body, not his mind, that yields ; but the hand of death
is upon him ; his life-blood trickles slowly and feebly from
the wound in his side ; he sinks in that last dreadful faint-
ness of ebbing life, which all must sooner or later feel. He
still supports himself with difficulty upon his fisdling arm,
but his Junbs have lost their force ; his bristling hair and
agonized face, express the dreadful workings of present
suffering, and the inward conviction of approaching death.
He is lying upon a shield ; a short sword or dagger beside
him, and a broken horn.
The critics say that this statue cannot represent a gla-
diator, because, at the period when this great work of
Grecian art must have been produced, Greece had no gla-
diators, neither were the snield and short sword that
lie by his side, the proper arms for gladiators ; and yet we-
know that the Secutores, in their combats with the BetiarUy
fought with swords, — whether long or short seems un-
certain,— and with shields, — ^and why may they not have
been such as these?* The Dimachoeri also fought with
two swords. The cord round the neck, and the horn, sadly
perplex the critics; but it appears from an ancient Greek
mscription, that the heralds of the Olympic Games had
a cord tied round their necks, and gave the signal for
their commencement by blowing a horn ; nay, this very in-
scription was affixed upon the statue of a herald, who was
also a victor in these games ;t so that the statue we now see
* Pliny says, the porticos of the temples erected to the Claudian and
Domitian families, were adorned with statues, the work of a freedman
of Nero, representing the most celebrated gladiators of those days.
The Apollo Belvidere is now believed to be a work of the age of Nero;
and if so, the same age may have produced this statue, and it may re-
present a barbarian gladiator,— for barbarians were trained to tiieee
cruel sports. Nero's visit to Greece seems to render this supposition
more probable ; so also does the circumstance of its having been found
in the same spot with the Apollo Belvidere and the Fighting Gladiator,
at Antium, on the site of Nero's favourite villa.
t Winkelmsn, liv. vi. chap. -2, § 24.
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THE DYIKG GLADIATOB. 81
may also combine both characters, and represent a herald
and a wounded combatant. The mustachios, also, puzzle
the antiquaries ; for thej maintain that the Greeks, even in
the ancient times, when they wore beards, never wore mus-
tachios; and that, therefore, this is not a G^reek, but a
barbarian ; — nay, some late critics have maintained, that it
is a barbarian chief, — ^but the cord round the throat is of
itself a sufficient re^tation of such an idea.
Winkelman conjectures that it may represent Gopreas,
the herald of Eurysthenes, '^ the most uimous herald of
Grrecian mythology," who was massacred by the Athenians
while attempting to force away the descendants of Hercules
from the altar of Mercy; and for whose murder a solemn
feast of expiation continued annually to be held at Athens,
even in the days of Hadrian. But as Copreas was a Greek,
he could not have had whiskers, and therefore this statue
camiot represent him.
Indeed, these unfortunate whiskers come in the way in
every possible supposition, excepting one. There was a
statue, celebrated even in the brightest period of ancient
sculpture, the work of Ctesilaiis,* " the statue of a wounded
and dying man." The description t exactly answers to this
statue. This is " a wounded and dyiug man;" — ^Why may
not this be the statue ? It is not probable that there should
be two great masterpieces of ancient art, representing two
"wounded or dying men;" or, if so, that Plmy would have
noticed one only. !Nor is it probable that a sculpture of
such pre-emiuent excellence as this, should be passed over
unnoticed by Pliny, Pausanias, and aU the ancient writers
who have described works of art; and there is no other
description iu any author that can apply to it, excepting of
this masterpiece of Ctesilaiis. The style, too, answers to
that date.
I am therefore iadined to think it probable, that this
statue is either the original or a fine ancient copy of the
famous " wounded and dyiug man" of Ctesilaiis. J
• A celebrated Grecian sculptor, who is supposed to have lived about
the 62nd Olympiad,
t Pliny, Hist. Nat. lib. xxxiv. cap. 19, 4.
X Winkelman's objection to this supposition is worth stating^ from
TOL. II. G
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82 BOHE.
But be it what it may, " the Dying GladiatDr" will'alwya
be accounted one of the finest nieces of sculpture that time
haa spared. Statuary has, inoee^, bequeathed few of its
.ancient treasures to us, and we are vainly left to regret tlxat
only a few scattered fragments of that heavenly art
" Float down the tide bf yesrt,
As, baoyant on tiie stonny main, ,
A parted wreck appeals."*
I must not trust myself to describe the exquisitely beau-
tiful group of Cupid and Psyche, which stands in this room,
nor even to mention the far inferior, but extremely fine
statues with which it is fiUed : the Flora, which 'Winkelman
supposes not to be that goddess, but the portrait of some
beautiful womou, under the image of Spring, — ^the Venus,
the finest in Home, — ^the Juno, — ^the beautifiil Antinoiis, in
the heroic style, — ^the Antinoiis as an Egyptian priest, or
rather deity, as worshipped at Antinoe, so much extolled
by the critics, — ^and the admirable ancient copy of the cele-
brated Faun of Praxiteles. The head of Alexander the
Great has been set on awry with great care by the restorers,
in order to prove it to be his ; notwithstanding which, it is
the fashion now to doubt it. For my part, I fully beKeve
it, because it bears a strong resemblance to the ancient
gems of undoubted authenticity, and because his is a head
that, once seen, can never be mistaken. "We are told, that
Its absurdity: — " Je craia que eette figure [that of the celebrated statue
of CtesilaUs] reprSaentoit un hdros, parceque je mCimagine que I'artisie
n'auroit ^pas voala degcendre ^ traiter des sujets d'un ordre infSrieur,
atiendaqae:8on grand mSrite consistoit, suivant Pllne^ ft donner encore
plus de noblesse aux caract^res nobles/' — Vide Winkeucan, 1. vi. chap*
2. — Which, in plain English, is as much as to say, " Pliny, indeed*
'fays it 'was the statue of a wounded and dying man; but he is wrong
— he does not mean what he says. It must have been the at&tne
of a-'wounded and dying hero ; because asCtesilaUs was remarkable for
giving great nobleness to noble figures, he never wx^uld condescend to
make the statue of a mere man. It was not noble enough for him."
If it had been the statue of a wounded and dying hero, Pliny would
have said it was the statue of a wounded and dying hero ; nay, he would
probably have said of what hero. But as he says it was the statue of a
** wounded and dying man," I shall believe it.
* Sir Walter Scott.
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TlJRXETn OXNTAirBS. 88
Apelles onlj had tlie right of painting it, Lyrippns of catt-
ing it in bronze, Pyrgotelus of engraving it in gems ; but
bistorj is silent as to the name of its priyileged scolptor in
marble.*
In lookiag back on the contents of this museum, I should
say that the finest works it contains are the Osiris and Isis,
the Furietti Centaurs, the Professor of the G^ymnastic Art,
the seated statue of Agrippiua, and of the Camillus, the
Child playing with a Swan, the Cupid bending his bow, the
Cupid and Psyche, and above all the Dying Gladiator ;t
together with the noble marble vase, and its pedestal; the
mosaic of the Eour Doves, the beauly of which was com-
memorated by Pliny; and the bas-reliefs of the dispute
between Agamemnon and Achilles, the Nine Muses, and
the Battle of the Amazons, which are instanced by Win-
kelman as three out of the six most beautiful bas-ieliefs in
the world.
* 'Winkelman, Hist, de TArt, liv. vi. chap. 3, who quotes Pliny in
Bnpport of the' feet.
t^I forgot tomention that this statue was admirably restored by
Hiehael Angelo. A part of one foot and arm, one hand, and some
other minuter morsels, are replaced in the true spirit of the original,
It is said to have been found at Nettuno, or Antium, in the same spot
where the Apollo was discovered; and, like it, probably adorned Nero's
&vourite viUa. There, also, was found the Boighese, or Fighting
Gladiator.
G 2
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-81 BOMl.
LETTEE LrX.
The Paiktikgs ajstd the Palazzo de' Coksebvatoei
IN THE Capitol — ^Academy or St. LrKB — ^Raphael's
St. Luke — Eaphael's Skttll.
Peom the Museum of Sculpture, at the Capitol, we must
now proceed to that of Paiiitmg, which is, however, of very
inferior interest. It is contained in the opposite Palazzo
de' Conservatori,* in which are also some remarkable anti-
quities. Crossing the Piazza by the Equestrian Statue of
Marcus AureHus, we enter the court. All here reminds us
of the grandeur of ancient Eome. Opposite to us sits
Eome triumphant. At her feet weeps a captive province.
By her side stand two prisoner barbarian kings : their muti-
lated limbs bear dreadful proof of her own barbarism ; for
it is evident, on inspection, that they represent captives
whose hands have been cut off.f
* The Conservatori are officers appointed to keep the streets, roads,
publip buildings, &c., in proper repair and order. They seem, in some
degree, to fulfil the office of the ancient ^diles. They sometimes give
great public feasts at the Capitol, to the cardinals and nobility, as if in
imitation of those which were formerly offered up here to Jupiter and
the gods, but really eaten by the priests and the senators.
f One of them has been cut off above the elbow, the other at the
wrist. They are smooth and polished, and the drapery touches them so
closely, that it is evident they were originally formed so. According
to Winkelman, (lib. vi. cap. 5), they represent Thracian kings, of a
people called Scordtsci, and in the note it is asserted, on the authority
of Florus, that the Bomans cut off the hands of all their Thracian pri-
soners, and sent them back into their own country, to strike its inha-
bitants with terror. It is also recorded, that Quintus Fabius Mazimus
cut off the hands of all the Roman deserters in Sicily.— VcU. Max. lib.
ii. cap. 7.
We shudder at such horrors; and while we see that the most
civilized of Pagan states far surpassed in cruelty the most barbarous of
Christian nations, we bless the divine spirit of that religion which has
worked the change.
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BOBTSAii coLviar. 86
^e court is strewed with fragments of colossal figures of
gods and emperors, of the most enormous size. CfBsar and
Augustus stand entire. At the bottom of the staircase is
placed the modem imitation of that ancient Bostral Column
of Gains Duilins in the Eorum, that commemorated the
first naval triumph Some ever obtained. A portion of the
ancient inscription, which was found in making an excava-
tion, is fixed m it. The whole was done under the direction
of Michael Angelo. While this reminds us of the early-
days of EepubHcan glory, and the reHevo of Curtius plung-
ing into the gulf recalls the great sacrifices of Soman
patriotism, — the beautiful sculptures from the Triumphal
Arch of Marcus Aurelius commemorate one of the proudest
periods of her empire, and of those wide-extended conquests
that subdued the world.
We observed two Egyptian idols, similar to those in the
opposite court, and a remarkably fine animal group, of
' ^ ' ful
Trecian sculpture — a lion springing on the back of a horse ;
its fangs closed in the back of the animal. Though now
defective, it is said to have been restored by Michael Angelo,
who admired it particularly.
An ugly and headless image of a monk^ in basalt in this
court, bears an impudent inscription in dreek, that " Phi-
dias, and Ammomcus, the son of Phidias, made it" — and
Winkelman, though he acknowledges the inscription has
every mark of being a forgery, and that the sculpture of the
monkey itself is " meprisable,^^ yet, having got an idea into
his- h^kd, that a colony of Greeks once established them-
selves in a part of Africa, so infested by monkeys that they
took the name of " Orecs Fiihecusins,^^ he next supposes
tiiat they took to worshipping monkeys ; and, finally, arrives
at the preposterous conclusion, that this frightful object
was made by Phidias, for an object of adora^on to these
same " Qrecs Fitheeusim,''* However, it appears that
liiere never were a^iy such Greeks ; and that Diodorus Sicu-
lus only says, such a name would have suited the barbarous
inhabitants of that monkey-infested and monkey-worship-
* *' Je sais done port^ll eroire que le singe dn Capitole a 6i4 an objet
de la v6n6nktion des Grecs Pithecnsms.— JETm^. -de VArt, lib. iv. cap. 6.
§ 68. • .
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$6 noMEi
ping country,* not that they actually assumed it, much teas
that they were Grreeks. The colossal head and hand, of
hronze in this court, are erroneously, reputed to he fmg*
ments of a statue of Gommodus..
After ascending the staircase, we pasa tlirou^h two iX)ojns^
and in the third, which is adorned wit^ a fine meze, painted
by Daniel di Yolterra, representing the Triumph of Marius^
we find the bronze statue of the W olf and T^inns, supposed
to h& i^e same which Cicero states to have been, struck/!^,
lightning, ou: the Capitol^ previous to the murderi of Jidiu»
Cs^sar. This Wolf, nowever, (for the Twins are modem,)
was found at the Church of St. Theodore, in the Forum:
below. It has a fracture in the inside of the hind leg, but
it seems to me almost impossible that the lightning Siould
have struck it in such a part, and in no other.. TSs WoJf
is one of th^ few genuine productions of Etruscan art which
remain to our days. It may be of very, high antiquily:,. fos
even &om the beginning, Kome waa adorned with statues
of bronze: a fact curious, not merel^^.asi proving the eodyi
period at. which the fine arts had atttoned: to this; degree o£
perfection in Italv, but the refinement o£ tiie people>.w4^Qy
in the in£Emcy of society, sou^t. those embelashmeinW. of
sculpture which are usually the latest appendages* of drili'-^
zation and ^lished lile< The statue of xUanulus, .(^rown^d
by Victory, in. a triumphal car. drawn; by four. h<waes:;t «nd
the statues iOf the successive Kings of Jbome in the: Capitol ;.
the statue of Horatius Cocl^s^ in the Eorum^. woii th^
^Equestrian statue of Clelia§. in the* Via> Sacra,. 'were i can?*
tempararyr with the persons, in whose, honour- they weres
erected^ and several of them were still standing) and atiU-
admiredt in the: ages of Augustus Ij; and of FlixQf«.% They^
were aIl.of bronze, and undoubtedly, all executed by Etruscan;
artii^.. The bronze colossal statue, of ApoUo^ made finm-
the helmets and cuirasses, of tiie conqu^sed Samnites,^waa.
even l^ought worthy ta adorn the^ lifarm7&(tf;the,tea^iofi
Auguatusi**
* Tide Note 2d, to § 64. cap. 6. 1: it. Htet dh TArt
t Dionys. Halic 1. u».iy..U^«. it^Xdon^.U.iv, I). 22iU,
§ Id^m, 1» V. p. 28i. ii. Soa. CfifusplAU adMacciain*
K Plin. Ub. 84. •♦ Plin. Ub. 84, cap. 6.
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YABTI OOSBTTLAXEB. WT
The beantSfbl' lAroQze statue of Mfenrtnu the Bhispbeidboj'
pulling^ the thorn oulrof his fbot, and ike. figure of one of
die Camillij are admirable, but thej are tiie.only sculptures
in the room worth- notice, unless. 70U wisk to aee the pre-
tended hustf of the elder Brutus^ the liberator of Bome,
Btonding by that of Julius CaMsrv its enaliirer«
The next room isalmoet entirely: occupied with the Pasti.
Qensulares — the suooeseion of consuls, fi>und near the three
oolUmns of the Comitium, in the Eonun.
In the fifth chamber you aie shown two ancient broncee,
said to be of the Sacred Geese, whose, clamour awakooied
ManliuET, and preserved Borne from the Gaula; which re-
nunded us that Borne, on the same spot,* was betrayed < by>
ft woman, and saved by a goose; but these geese on more,
aoemnte inerpeotion turn out to be ducks.
The Medusa's Head, by Bevnini, a. piece of sculpture:
generally much admired^ is here. The portrait of Michael
Anselo, by himself, is extremely interesting, although soma
doubt has l&tely been thrown on its authenticity. There is
a> Holy Family, by Giulio Bomano, said to be very fine ; but:
the light is so had^ I have neiner yet been able to. see it..
There is (one of the many absurdities of Boman Museums)/
a' bust; said to be of Appius ClaudiuB (the blind,) in rosso
anl^oa-^ material whoUy^ unknown to: the. Bomansin his:
simple republican age.
The fneze of the sixth chamber is painted in firesoo, by
Anmbale Caraed, wilh the achievements of Scipio ; and the
last chamber is painted' in ftesco by Fietro Pernio, and
adorned' with two unknown statues, christened Cicero, and
Virgil.
In the little chapel beyond, a fresco of the Btemal Father,
in' the ceilings by Annibale Caraoci, and the Altar^dece byj
Avanzino Nemi, are worth notice.
These paintings in this palace, which fiU three rooms,
have been the most ill-used collection, that ever was made ;
and though really the works of some of the. best maatera,
Ihey present the most black, battered, and forhinL i^peaxy
ance,, that can w^ be; imaged. A little, cleaning, and
*'Th» Tarpeian rook, widoU. xeoeiTediUriianie. froiB.ib«{treaohe)7 of
Tarpeia.
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88 SOME.
Tarmsli* midit do somethmg for them ; but many of them
are irreparably injured. There are some, iadeeiy the de*
fltruction of whicn excites little regret. Amongst these
maj, perhaps, be reckoned the large and laboured produc-
tions of Pietro da Cortona, which abound here ; though hia
Triumph of Bacchus is a pretty composition, rich, yarious,
and classical. His Eape of the Sabines, Death of Darius,
&c. have also considersible merit. It is the fashion to czy
him down so immercifully, that nobody will even look at his.
works ; and I must own I never had any great pleasure in
them mpelf, nor have I the smallest desire to vindicate
him from the opprobrium he labours under so justly, of
being; the first corrupter of painting, the beginner of that
rapid descent we have since made down the hill of taste.
Still I think he is too outrageously viMed ; and I am sure
that, however inferior he may be to the great masters who
preceded him, Italy can produce no artist now to compare
with him.
His productions have certainly some learning, but little
taste or genius. We can point out no glaring £siults in
design or composition, but we feel the absence of that which
constitutes perfection. He draws good figures, but they
want ejroression. He breathes no interest, no soul, no
oharm ot nature, or ideal beauty into them. His colouring
wants truth, and his lights effect.
Let us turn from them to Foussin's Triumph of Flora,
which, faded and injured as it is, is still a most beautiful
composition. His Orpheus playing on the Lyre, surrounded
by Nymphs and Loves, is extremely fine, yet has some faults
of execution which seldom occur in so careful a master.
Domenichino's Sibyl is a masterpiece of pamting. Its
rival, the Sibyl of Guercino, has not the same nigh character
of inspiration in the beaming eye and the half-sundered lip.
She is at rest, unmoved by those stormy passions, and that
shuddering sense of coming evils, which are the curse of
the prophetic spirit. But there is in her eye that settled
sadness natural to one who can penetrate the darkness of
* Since the publication of the first editions of this work, the author
has been informed, that the paintings in this galleiy have been recently
cleaned and re-arranged.
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ACABEKT 07 ST. LTHOB. 89
futurity, and see all its crimes and sottowb. Like most of
the others, this beautiful painting has been much injured.
Guidons Bacchus and Ariadne is unfinished, and it would,
perhaps, have been quite as weU for his fame if it had never
been begun. The drawing is bad, and the colouring worse.
We must suppose it one of the manj paintings which he
dashed off to paj his gambling debts. His ''Beatified
Spirit," is far superior, vet still it seems to want something
of celestial and glorified beauty, that, in his happier mo-
ments, he could have given it. His St. Sebastian, though
extremely fine, is inferior to that at the Colonna Fala^.
A clever gipsy, telling a siQy youth his fortune, at the same
time she is cheating him out of it, is one of Caravaggio's
admirable productions. It is much injured, and not quite
so good as a duplicate I have somewhere seen of it. He
ought never to have painted any but such subjects as these.
A beautiful Holy Family, by Benvenuto Garofalo; an-
other, very smaU, by Albano— the Sick Man waiting by the
Pool for the moving of the Waters, a beautiful little com-
position by Domemchino — ^a Landscape by the same — ^the
Kape of Europa, by Paul Veronese, nearly invisible fix)m
dirt and injury, but reminding me, through it aU, of his
splendid Europa in the Doge's palace at Venice — ^Agostino
Caracd's Communion of St. Jerome, diminished fix>m his
great painting at Bologna; these, and several more, by
Q-uercino, A. Caracci, fVancesco Mola, Ac. are well worth
your attention; but I wiQ spare you any further enume-
ration of them.
I must, however, when here, carry you down iuto the
Porum to the Academy of St. Luke. This society of sculp-
tors, painters, architects, and engravers — of all, in short,
who practise the arts of design, male and female, — ^possess
for their Academy two mean, unimposing-looking apart-
ments, behind the church of their patron saint. One of
them is filled with models, desi£;ns, &c. some of which are
by Michael Angelo ; the other by a collection of painters,
chiefly composed of the works of the modem Boman artists,
and therefore not pre-eminent in their merit. The speci-
mens of the great masters, which chiefly consist of a few
little Claudes, Salvator Eosas, Foussins, &c. &c, Slc,, are by
no means first-rate.
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90 BOICE.
The famous picture in this Acsdem^r is, however, Raphael's
St. Luke painting the Yirffin's Portrait.* In this- adnurable
work, Eaphael has realiised his own conceptions of an artist.
St. Luke has all the fire, the. riow, the< inspiration^ of com-
manding genius. It struck me with the most extraordinary
admiration the first thne I beheld it. I was then fiesh ftom
iESngland, where, excepting the Cartoons, I had seen nothing
worthy of the name of Uaphael — ^none of the tareasures of
his genius which Kome contains, and I actually dreamt of
this figure.
The skull of Baphael is pres^^ed here, under a- glass
case! I suppose tms musi^ be a transporting sight tb
Sdiessrs, Gail and Spurzheim, and all their disciples, but to
me it was rather a. shocking one. I had no pleasure in
viewing the eyeless sockets, the grinning mouth, the moul*
deriug vacant bones, that once beamed with intelligence and
beaaily — and hearing that this was BaphaeL
* Originally the altar-pieoe in thfi Ghiirch;of St. Luke;
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TF-
V"
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APAKTMrNT IN A ROMAN PALACE
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PALAZZO SOBIA. 91
I.ETTBB LX.
BOMAK FAI1AGB&— 'FAUkSZO DOSIA.
PAitAOSB, to an lEbgUsh ear, conv«j an idea of all that the.
imaginatkni' caa figure- (xf elegance and splendour. But,
after a certain resid^ice in Ituy, eren this obstinate earij
associatioii is conquered, and the word immediatdy brings to
our mind images of dirt, neglect, and decay. The palaces
of Borne are innumerable; but then erery gentleman's house*
is a paiaoe, — ^I shbidd'say, every nobleman's, for there are
no gentleman in Italy except noblemen ;• society being, as of
old, dxrided into two classes, the^ patricians and the plebeians:
but though eveiy gentleman is a nobleman, I am sorry to
say, every nobleman^ i$ not a gentleman; neither would
many- of their palaces be considered' by any means fit resi-
. Thele • •
dences for genllemen< in our cotintry. The legitimate appli-
cation: of the wordj which^ with i^s, is confined to a buildmg
forming a quadrangle, and enclosing a court within itself, is
by no means adhered to here. Every house that, has & parte
wekere^ and many that have not, are called palaces ; and, in
short, under that high-sounding appellation, are compre-
hended places whose wretchedness w surpasses the utmost
stretch of an English imagination to conceive.
Borne, howevOT, contams real: paiftces, whose magnitude
and magnificence^ are astonisking to trancidpine eyes ; but
their taateless architecture is idore astonishing stiU.
Though they have the ^at names of Michael Angelo,
Bramante, Yerospi, Bemimj Sito* &Q. among their architects;
though they are built of ixavertine stone, which, whether
viewed with the deepened hues of age in the Cok^seum, or
iiie^briffhtnesB of recent finish in St. Peter'^, is, I think, by
&ir the finest material for building' in the -■ world; andthoug^,
from i^e grandeur of their scale, and the prodigidity (A their
decoration, tbey. admitted of grand Gond)ination8) and strik-^*
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92 BOHS.
ing effect, jet tbey are lamentably destitute of architectural
beauty in the exterior ; and in the interior, though they are
filled with vast ranges of spacious apartments, though the
polished marbles and precious spoils of antiquity have not
oeen spared to embellish them, tnough the genius of paint-
ing has made them '^er modem temples, and sculpture
adorned them with the choicest remains of ancient art, yet
they are, generally speaking, about the most incommodious,
unenviable, uncomfortable dwellings, you can imagine.
I know it may be said, that comrort in England and in
Italy is not the same thing ; but it never can consist in
dulness, dirt, and dilapidation, any where. Italian comfort
may not require thick carpets, warm fires, or close rooms ;
but it can be no worse of clean floors, commodious furniture,
and a house in good repair.
In habitations of sucn immense size and costly decorations
as these, you look for libraries, baths, music-rooms, and every
appendage of refinement and luxury; but these things are
rarely to be found in Italian palaces. If they were arranged
and kept up, indeed, with any thing of English propriety,,
consistency, order, or cleanliness, many of them would oe
noble habitations ; but, in the best of them, you see a bar-
renness, a neglect, an all-prevailing look of misery — defi-
ciencies every where — and contemptu>le meannesses adhering
to grasping magnificence. But nothing is so offensive as
the dirt. Among all the palaces, there is no such thing as a.
palace of cleanliness. You see (and that is not the worst) you
smell abominable dunghills, heaped up against the walls of
splendid palaces, and foul heaps of ordure and rubbish defil-
ing their columned courts ; you ascend noble marble stair-
cases, whose costly materials are invisible beneath the accu-
mulated filth that covers them; and you are sickened with
the noxious odours that assail you at everj turn. You pass
through long suites of ghastly rooms, with a few crazy old
tables and chairs, thinly scattered through them, and behold
around you nothing but gloom and discomfort.
The custom of abandoning the ground-floor to menial pur-
poses, except when used for shops, which is almost universal
throughout Italy, and covering its windows, both for security
and economy, with a strong iron grate without any glass >
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BOMAK SOCIETT. 9d
behind it, contributes to give the bouses and palaces a
wretched and dungeon-like appearance.
It is no uncommon thing K)r an Italian nobleman to go
up into the attics of his own palace himself, and to let the
principal rooms to lodgers. !nx)ud as he is, he thinks this
no degradation ; though he would spurn the idea of allowing
his sons to follow any profession save that of arms or of the
church. He would sooner see them dependants, flatterers,
eaves-droppers, spies, gamblers, cavalieri servenHy polite
rogues of anj kind, or even beggars, than honest merchants^
lawyers, or physicians.
Gfhe Fiano ralace has its lower story let out into shops,
and its superior ones occupied by about twenl^ different
funilies; among which the duke and duchess live, in a comer
of their own palace.
It is the same case with more than half the nobles of
Eome and Naples. But the Doria, the Borghese, and the
Colonna, possess enough of their ancient wealth to support
their hereditary dignity, and their immense palaces are filled
only with their own fiamilies and dependants. Not but that,
though lodgings are not let at the Doria Palace, butter is
regularly sold there every week, which, inEngland, would seem
rather an extraordinary trade for one of the first noblemen
in the land to carry on in his own house. Yet this very
butter-selling prince looks down with a species of contempt
upon a great British merchant.
Commerce seems to be no longer respected in Italy — ^not
even in Florence, where its reigning princes were merchants.
■Yet the proudest Florentine noblemen sell wine by the
flask, at their own palaces. I wonder the profits of this
little huckstering trade never induced them to think of
entering into larger concerns, that they might have larger
returns. I wonder it never led them to remember, that
commerce was the source of the modem prosperity of Italy.
But commerce cannot exist without jfreedom ; a truth that
princes and people have yet to learn here.
The palaces of all the ancient Eoman nobiHty have, in
the entrance hall, a crimson canopy of state, beneath which
the prince sits on a raised throne to receive his vassals,
hear their complaints, redress their grievances, and admi-
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94 • BOHB.
nister jufitilse. Perhaps I ought to spc^k in the pa«t, rather
than the present tense; but thej still exercise a sort of
.feudal jurisdiction over their numerous tenantiy, among
whom'their willfis k^.
Above the door of eyery palace, upon the escutcheon of
the family arms, we seldom £ul to see^-^^u if in mockery-^
the S. P. Q. R;— " The Senate and Boman People,*' serving
only to swell the state of a poor Italian Oonde or Marchese.
The galleiy of the Horia Palace is reputed to be one of
the best collections of paintings in Italy. It is more certain
that it is one of the largest. For, along with some very-
good paintings, there are a great many very bad ; so bad,
that while the revered names of the greatest masters are
sounding in your ears, you involuntarily turn away with
indifference or disgust.
The whole of one very lar^ room is filled with very large
paintings by Ghaspar Poussm. I mention their size first,
because I really think it is their chief merit. They are
among the earliest and least excellent of that profound and
learned master. They seem to have been executed with
lightning rapidity, with the impatient haste of a man that
is conscious of powers not yet fully developed, and hurrieb
through an irksome task that he may be at leisure to
mature them by study.
Graspar was a servant in the Doria family. He was not a
TVenchman, as is generally supposed, but a Roman of low
condition and 'untutored mind. His real name was Dughet,
but he afterwards assumed the name of his brother-in-law,
Nicolas Poussin, who, it is weU known, came in youth to
Rome, and finished his life there.
Beside this room-full, there are two landscapes by Gaspaar
and one by Nicolas Poussin, said to be very fine, but in
lights so bad, that I never yet could succeed in seeing
them.
Of the five Claudes— the "Molino" and the "Tempio
d'ApoUo,'* are exquisitely beautiftd, and indisputably the
finest Italy now possesses, though they are surpassed by
several in England, whither the talisman of wealth has
transported the master-pieces which its sullen skies forbid
it to create.
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DOBIA eAXLEBT. 05
The '* Holino '' is the most admired jby comioisaeurs ; but
I am not a comibisBeur^ oiid I am afiraid the composition jci
the Temple, on "theiwhole, pleased me the most.
Bomenichino's thise landscapes are original and adnmv
able. This artist, Titian, and Eubens, have proved to ns, in
their works, that they could have been great masters in
landscape, if they had not chosen to be greater in historical
painting.
How strikingly do the beauty of the landscapes, in the
Communion of St. Jerome, and the Murder of Peter the
JMartyr,* add to the effect of the painting !
The '* Belisarius *' of Salvator Bosa, though the subject
seems well adapted to his wild and gloomy genius, is yet
by no means the happiest of his productions. His charac-
teristic faults, especially of colourmg, are more than usually
apparent, and it possesses fe^er of his redeeming beauties.
It is too black, too heavy, dull, and exaggerated — Nature is
not faithfully copied, nor pleasingly heightened; nor, after
all these sacrifices to obtain it, is there true sublimii?|r. The
attempt to combine historical with landscape paintmg, has
not been successM here; their defects, rather than their
beauties, are mingled; the interest is too much divided
between the hero and the scene, and we have neither a
landscape nor a historical piece.
AnnJJbale Oaracci has, I think, succeeded better in the
same perilous undertaking. His is a small but beautifully
composed landscape, in the foreground of which, a Magdalen
is extended, at the root of an aged tree, in all the aban-
donment of solitude and despair. Her uplifted eyes and
clasped hands any painter could have designed; but who
could have made the paleness of the cheek, the quivering
Kp, and the tears that tremble in the glistening eye, speak
so forcibly to the heart? Annibale Caracci seldom ad-
dresses himself so directly to the feelings. He commands
our approbation, he satisfies our judgment, he improves our
understanding ; but the strong expression of the passions,
the agony of grief; terror, pitjr, supplication, and pathos, he
has left to those who formea themselves upon his instruc-
tions— to Guide, Domenichino, and Guercino.
* At the Church of St. John and Si Paul, at Venice.
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96 BOHX.
His La Fiethy or the Virgin and the Dead Christ, will
be £ur more praised and valued than this little Magdalen in
the Deserts. It is safer from criticism, it has far fewer
fiiults, and beauties of a higher stamp. But is it not cold
and dead? Is there no want of interest, no absence of
feeling and expression, in that piece of correct design and
pure composition ?
La Fieta is a subject which artists seem inyariablj to
treat with established insensibility ; yet, surely, in a mother
embracing the lifeless corpse of a son torn irom her by a
premature and ignominious death, there should be more of
grief, of tenderness, of melting pity, and maternal love, than
we ever see in those placid, inanimated, and undisturbed
Madonnas ; not to mention the feelings of her who was the
mother of the crucified Saviour of the world. But I must
get on faster through this long gallery, or you will tire by
the way.
Q-uerdno's Magdalen, Caravaggio's Magdalen, Cignani's
Magdalen, Murillo's Magdalen, and Titian's Magdalen, all
differ widely from each other, and are all fine paintings in
their way, though Guercino's only has the character of a
Magdalen. As for Titian, though an excellent painter » of
youth and beauty, he had no notion of penitence or pathos ;
and this Magdalen, like all his others, is a fine, fat, comely
young creature, who differs in no respect from the picture of
his unrepentant mistress, that hangs up here. His Sacrifice
of Isaac is his chief work in this gallery ; but it is not one
of his great masterpieces. Tou wQl admire his portrait of
the great Andrew Dona, for the sake of the man as well as
the painter, and you will be delighted with that exquisite
fainting, said to be Luther and Calvin, and St. Catherine,
t is a copy from G-iorgione, from whom Titian learnt much,
and whose paintings live and breathe on the glowing canvas,
irhey have a charm about them that fascinates you, and
makes you stand and gaze upon them with unwearied
delight.
The very antipodes to the works of Qiorgione or Titian,
are the productions of Sasso Ferrato, the Eoman Carlo
Dolce. His Holy Family here is the best (excepting one at
the Church of Santa Sabina,) I have ever seen of his works.
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THB DOBIA OALLSBT. 97
The St. Joseph, espedaJlj, is admirable. But in g^ieral,
at Eome, nothing is to be seen of his but a mere multipli*
cation of Madonnas, which bear, indeed, a curious coinci*
dence with his name, for thej always look like figures of
stone.
Prom Sasso Ferrato turn to B^hael, and see all that
Sasso Perrato wanted. Here is a Holy Family, in his early
style, before he had unlearned the instructions of Fietro
Perugino; and also a duplicate of one I weU remember
seeing in the Stafford gallery, in his best and latest stjrle.
It is small ; the figures are full-length, the Virgin is benmng
over the children, while the in&nt Jesus leans against her
knees. The graceful flow of outline, the beautiml compo*
sition, the ha^onized splendour of colouring, the tender-
ness of expression, and, above all, the chastened purity and
holLness in. the divine face and form of the virgin, are
Baphael's, and Baphael's alone. It is thought by many
connoisseurs to be a copy, perhaps by one of his pupils ; to
me it seems to be oriepnal ; at aU events it is beautiful.
Leonardo da Yind s portrait of Queen Joan of Arragon,
is also of disputed authenticity. I think it bears intrinsic
evidence of being done by Leonardo's own hand; and if
this be the copy, where is the original ? It has the violet
tint, and the magical ivory smoothness of his finish, the
oval contour of face, — all nis peculiarities ; and, above all,
hispeculiar excellence.
Here are two of these little trumpery crucifixions, falsely
attributed to Michael An^elo Buonarotti, of which we see
so many in Italian galleries. His contemporary, Vasari,
tells us ne only painted one oil picture ; but it has been my
lot, in this city alone, to see some dozens of his reputed
works. If his great spirit could arise, and behola the
wretched paintings shown under his name, he would
assuredly annihilate with a firown the utterers of such a
calumny.
IS'icolas Poussin's copy of the Nozze Alddbrandim is
admirable. It was a suDJect well suited to that classical
artist, whose enthusiastic admiration, and unwearied study
of ancient painting and sculpture, made him at last enter
TOI*. II. H
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t
99 BOMS.
into the true spirit of the luicients bo completely, that his
style, his figures, and decorations, even to the minutest
Srts, are strictly antique. His very fency became Grecian,
e thought as the^r would have thought, and designed ad
they would have designed. But, with all his poetic^ ima-
gination, his classic taste, his purity of composition, his
original thoughts, and tho correctness and science of his
designs, Foussin never will be a popular painter, from his
neglect of colouring.
The Eour Misers, an admirable piece of comic painting,
Worthy of Albert Durer, is by Quintin Matsys of Antwerp,
whom love made a painter. He was a farrier, and feU in
love with the daughter of an artist, who rejected him with
scorn, declaring that "none but a painter was worthy of
the daughter of a painter." The lover immediately laid
down the hammer and took up the palette; and some of
his productions having obtained the highest praise from the
prejudiced father, who little suspected they were his, he at
length obtained the fair object of his affections.
Among a great many of Caravaggio's paintings which
^om this collection, I noticed a St. Eoque and his dog in
prison ; for it is a picture which compels you to look at it,
and to allow that it is the work of a great and original
genius. But the saint is a vagabond, a coarse peasant
from the lowest class of men, unennobled by his sacred
mission. How weU Caravaggio loved to debase the lofti-
ness of grand conceptions, annihilate sublimity, and, with
his energetic touch, force us to dwell upon lowness and
vulgarity !
Gnercino's Prodigal Son is the best of his works I saw
here. The Visitation of Saint Elizabeth is the finest of
Benvenuto Garofalo's two paiatings, both of which will
catch your eye by their brilliant and beautiful colouring.
You must see the Casta Snsauna, and six little landscapes
and figures, quite miniatures, by Annibale Caracci; Fan
teaching Apollo to play upon the pipes, by Ludovico Caracci,
coarse, but forcible, and designed by a 'master's hand and
mind; Santa Veronica, with the admirable head of Christ,
by Andrea Mautegna; Queen Semiramis, by Paolo Vero-
nese I the Madonna adoring the Sleeping Jesus, by Guido
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DOSIl. 0ASLIBT. M
— ^ihe porfcnut of Bubens's Gonfessor, bj himself-— Pope
PamfiK Doha, by Velaaquer — ^Machiayelli, hy Bronzino —
and Bartolo and Baldo, hj Baphael — all these 70a must see ;
but they form a rerj smiill T)art of the collection, although
70U will probablj think the nst alieady too long.
H 2
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LETTEB LXl.
PALAZZO OOLOlinrA.
The Colonna has by &r the finest galleiy, and about the
worst collection of pictures, of any in Eome. The immense
length and beautiful proportions of this building, the noble
Corinthian columns and pilasters of giallo-antico marble
that support it, the splendour of its painted roof, and the
lustre of its marble pavement, delight the eye with the rare
imion of magnificence and taste, and weU accord with the
ancient greatness of the " Gloriosa Colonna." So indis-
solubly associated is that name in my mind with the
remembrance of Petrarch, and of those days of brightness in
which poetry shed her revived light over the classic regions
of Italy, that although the ancient palace in which he
sojourned has long since been razed to the s^und, his very
name gave to this modem building a (marm which no
palace, however splendid, could ever have possessed of
itself.
Among the statues that adorn this gallery, there are none
worth notice except an ancient Diana, and a small female
figure reclining on her arm, an exquisite piece of Grecian
sculpture, apparently very ancient. None of the people
here could give it a name ; but I remember a similar figure
in the Townley collection at the British Museum, of very
inferior sculpture, which is there called a Nymph of Diana
reposing.
The Apotheosis of Homer, which Addison describes, the
servants assured me was no longer in the palace. It pro-
bably was sold at the same time the finest paintings were
disposed of, which was done, we were informed, to satisfy
the rapacity of the !Prench, who levied repeated contribu-
tions upon the noble families of Bome, to an immense
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COLOKITA PALACB. 101
amount. One of tlie present Colonna faxmij assigned tliis
to me as tbe cause why two sides of this noble gallery, which
are standing unfinished, have not been completed.
There are several fine paLutin^ scattered through this
immense pahice ; but so many bad ones, that the good are
almost lost in the evil company among which they hare
£Jlen.
There are three Poussins, and in the gallery there is a
Claude, which must once have been very mie. It is called
the Temple of Yenus, — and the beauty of the composition
stOl charms the eye, through aU the injuries it has sus-
tained.
There are a great many of Orizonti's Lmdscapes ; some
of them much superior to any of his I ever saw before. But
there is stiU all the difference between the worst of Claude
Lorraine's paintings, and the best of Orizonti's, that can
exist between the straios of a true poet, and the epic of a
dull rhymester. For Claude Lorraine's paintings are the
poetry of nature ; and he who ever e;azed upon ^em with-
out feeling in his inmost heart their Deauty and their senti-
ment, must have a soul that would be unmoved by those
emotions, not bom of earth, that stir within us at the call of
divine music, or diviner poesy.
Descriptions of paintings are so insufferable, that I should
never mention one picture, if I did not know that by notic-
ing the good ones, I may save you in part the slavery of
examining a whole gallery of bad paintings, to find the few
worth admiring. But, in pity to you and to myself, I must
pass over several worth notice, or we shall never have done.
There is one, a Feasant e&tms his smoking hot dinner,
gaping impatiently to take in a hug^e spoonfm of scalding
beans, but deterred by the fear of burning his mouth,—
admirably told, with infinite truth and comic effect, by
Annibale CaraccL
There is another in the same style, also said to be by him^
but painted with all the comic humour of Carava£;gio. It
represents a knavish clown, with his dinner beiore him,
grasping a flask of wine in one hand, and a glass in the
other, and grinning so, that he absolutely makes Sie beholder
grin too.
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I obaerred a fine libdoxma, hy AimibaliBi Caraod — ^Albano's
Bape of Earopa, and Christ betwa^i two Ajigels ; two fino
Tintorettoa ; Christ deliyermg the souls of the Blessed in
Limbo, designed by Buonarotti, and painted by Marcello
Yenusti ; a Madonna and Child, by Itaphael, not, however,
in his best style ; and two Portraits^ said to be of Luther
and Calyin, by Titian. But the picture that riveted my
attention was Ghiido's St. Sebastian ; in whtcb, joined to his
usual chaste composition, and wonderful powers of expres*
sion, he has dis{>Iayed a srandeur of conception, a force and
freedom of pencil, a breadth, and a rare perfection of colour-
ing, that 1 have seldom seen equaUed in any of his
works.
From this magnificent gallery we went to the garden, in
which are to be seen the uffly and uninteresting remains of
the Baths of Constantino, which I once before mentioned to
you, and which certainly did not invite us either to explore
or describe them again.
The garden hangs on the steep side of the Quirinal Hill,
on the summit of which, the broken but massive fragments
of an immense pediment of Parian marble, covered with the
finest sculpture, repose on the sofb green turf, overshadowed
by an ancient pine-tree.
It was Just a combinaticKn that a painter would have
wished. It was more than picturesque. It was what hia
fancy could never have formed, but his taste must at once
have selected. These fragments toe called the remains of
the magnificent Temple of the Sun, built by Aurelian, afber
his triumphant return to Bome, with Zenobia, the captive
Queen of Syria, in his train. It is very well a thing should
have a name, but the sculpture is far too fine for Aur^ian's
age ; and, in fact, it is merely talking at random, to say to
wldch of the sploidid edifices that adorned the Quirinal Hill
in Soman times, they belonged.
I wish the '^ Glorious Colonna" had let this ruined
Temple of the Sun, or whatever temple it was, stand where
it did. But the indefatigable labours of Martin Y. and the
succeedinff Colonna nrinces, transported the noble columns,
and all the rich spous of antiquity found here, to embellish
their palace ; and unmercifully hewed down the beautifiilly
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HOtrSE 07 TBI BCIFI08. 108
Bculptured marble remams of this superb building, for the
payement of the galleiy, the balustraoes of the chapel, and
the chimney-pieces of the sitting-roomB.
This garden has the remembrance of the Scipioa attached
to it. It is said, that the ancient site of their house, known
eyen in Italian dajs bj the name of Gaga de* Comelj^ was
within, or close to, that part of the garden which adjoins the
Conyent of the S. S. Apostoli* But this, I think, I before
alluded to.
Upon jour return to the house, you will be taken through
a suite of carpeted apartments, that look as if they might
easily be made habitable, to see a little twisted column of
rosso antico, about three feet high, which is called, impu-
dently enough, the Cohmna Bellica, that stood before the
Temple of Bellona, and from whence the arrow of war was
thrown by the Consul, on the commencement of hostilities
against any nation. To suppose that this bauble is that
republican column is truly the height of absurdity. The
material of which it is made was unknown till luxury
brought her train of elegance and corruption, and twisted
columns were imheard of till the decline of taste. The style
of the triumph represented upon it in bas-relief, proyea
it to be the work of a degenerate period. I shoula haye
tjonjectured it to haye been of the low ages, and brought
from the Baths of Constantino in the gardens ; but better
judges pronounced it to be the sculpture of the Oinqtte
Cento,
I turned from this toy to the only painting in this suite
of rooms that had power to interest me — Guide's Portrait
of Beatrice Cenci. She was younff, beautiful, and noble —
but a parricide. Yet, when you look upon her, it is scarcely
possible to belieye it. Did that sweet and expressiye face,
that gentle form, harbour a soul, that, with cool premedita-
tion, could embrue her hands in the blood of her father ?
But I know not how to giye the crimes of that father a
name. They were such as to make humanity shudder —
such as a fiend incarnate might haye rejoiced to haye per-
petrated. The brutal insults, the wanton cruelties, the
* Nardini, Sul Quiriiuae.
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104 BOKS.
diabolical sufferings, of whicli He made Us innocent children
the victims, were not the worst. He was a monster with-
out shame, remorse, or pity ; and if he had had ten thou-
sand lives, ho well deserved to lose them — hj any hand but
hers. Yet it was his daughter, who, in the silent midnight,
when even the iron hearts of the ruffians she had hired re-
lented, seized the avenging dagger from their nerveless
arm, and plunged it into the breast of a sleeping parent.
But, how shall I find words to stigmatize that government
which could afford no protection from trrsiwij the most
atrocious, fi^m sufferings the most cruel, nom insults worse
than death ; and which drove this young and ill-fated being
to murder, for the very security of her innocence ! How
shall I speak my horror at a government that condemned
the whole of a yoimg and innocent family, even the little
children, to the tortiu^, that the perpetrator of the murder
might be discovered ! And what heart does not melt with
pity when they hear, that though she had herself borne
the rack with unshrinking firmness, yet, when her little
brother was seized by the executioner to be placed upon
it, and his plaintive voice cried, " O save me f save me ! "
she burst forward, and screamed aloud, " I am the mur-
The utmost efforts of the unhappy girl were directed to
save her mother, who was implicated in the guilt. She
asked no mercy for herself. But all was in vain, and the
mother and daughter perished together, by a public and
ignominious execution.
I may be wrong, but the fate and misfortunes of this
young and criminal being sunk deeper on my heart than
the sufferings of many of pure and unsullied fame. For
the deepest misery had driven her to the deepest guilt, and
she passed on to death without the unutterable consolations
of approving virtue.
There is a settled sorrow, a wQdness, and a prophetic
melancholy in her ^e, that is inexpressibly touching ; and
weak though it be, I own that I have wept over the feeling,
the speaking, the angelically lovely countenance of her who
stabbed her father.
Above, in a suite of very little rooms, full of very stupid
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C'OLOinrA OALLZBT. 105
little pamtings, yon will see a Magdalen by Gnido, the
speaking beauty and pathos of which I shall never forget.
My feeble praise cannot do justice to its merits.
You will also find there, and dispersed over the palace,
a multiplicity of imitations of Salvator Bosa, by that parrot
of landscape painters, Andrea Locatelli. Farewell.
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106 ' BO¥a«
LETTEE LXn.
PaLAZZI BaBBEBUTI XSB SoiAJtBiL.
The present representative of the Barbermi family, one of
the most ancient, and once one of the most proud, wealthy,
and powerful of the Italian nobility, now lives in one half of
the attic story of his own palace. The other half is occu-
pied by the Frince of Peace ; and the principal floor is in-
habited by Charles YII., the late king of Spain, and his old
Queen.*
Poverty, which drove the Prince Barberini to his garrets,
has compelled him to dispose of that celebrated Museum of
ancient sculpture, vases, gems, cameos, intaglios, medals,
Ac, which was so long the wonder and admiration of Europe.
Whither it is now dispersed, no one can say. When a mu-
seum is once sold and scattered, I have often thought it as
good as lost to the world.
The famous Sleeping Eaunf is cased up in wood, ready to
be sent off to Mumch, and only waits to cross the Bhsetian
Alps, tin the JEgina Marbles, which the Prince of Bavaria
has also purchased, are ready to bear it company.
A noble ancient lion, in white marble, found in a tomb
near Tivoli, adorns the staircase. I believe the sculptures,
* A.D. 1820, when this work was first published, and many yean
subsequently.
t This Faun was found in the ditch of the Castle of St. Angelo, and
is supposed to have been one of the statues which Belisarius is accused
of having hurled down upon the beBiegers.t (Vide Procopius. De
Bello Qoth.) But a Faun, reclining in sleep, seemed a stnmge orna-
ment for the exterior of a mausoleum; and other accounts render it
dubious whether any other statue than that of Hadrian himself ever
stood upon the Holes HadrianL
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TALAMO BOnXRk. 107
as well as the pamtings of this palace, were diyided with the
Prince Sciarra, another branch of the fJEunilj. Of the Bar-
berini half of the pictures, the finest have been sold, and
those that remain are seen under all the disadvantages of
bad lights, dirt, and utter neglect.
But some among them trimnph over every disadvan-
^icholas Foussin's death of Qermanicus, is one of the
finest of his learned and masterly compositions. Its colour-
ing, never, perhaps, very good, lias sunered much from time
and injury ; but its other merits atone for this ffrc»t defect,
and the more it is studied, the more it will be a£nired. The
energy of spirit, struggling with the sinking weakness of ap-
proaching dissolution, the heroic fortitude of the sufferer,
and the grief of the inimitable ^oup that surrounded his
death-bed, are finely pourtrayed. Poussin has, indeed, trans-
fused into this painting the true spirit of the ancients. He
has not copied them, but he has composed and created as
th^ would hare done.
His Miracle of St. Peter, who restores to life and strength
a boy that had fallen from a vnndow, and shattered his limbs
dreadfriUy on the pavement, is extremely fine, and in much
better preservation than the Death of Gfermanicus.
Baphael's Portrait of his Mistress, the Pomarina, is not
in his best style. There is a hardness, a poorness, a con-
straint, in the manner; no freedom of pencilling, or glow of
colouring. She wears an armlet, vdth the name of Bafi&ello
Sanzio & TJrbino, inscribed upon it.
There is a small Holy Pamily, by Eaphael, so much in-
jured that its beaut;^ is nearly effaced. A fallen Corinthian
capital, introduced into it, adds to its picturesque effect;
ana, perhaps, is intended typically to represent the over-
throw of Paganism by the birth of the infant Christ, at
whose feet it lies. A beautiful little Claude has also been
most cruelly defaced.
Tintoretto's Christ is fine. The Piet^ is designed by
Buonarotti. It exactly resembles his group, in sculpture,
of the Virgin and dead Christ, at the Cathedral of
Plorence.
Guide's Portrait of St. Andrea Corsini, the original of
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108 SOMB.
tlie Mosaic in the Gorsini Chapel, at St. John Lateran, is
in his best style. Chnst disputing with the Doctors, by
Albert Durer, is excellent in its kind. I never yet saw
any one whose risibility was proof against these Doctors'
faces.
The other paintings best worth notice are, Farmegiano's
Marriage of St. Catherine (much injured.) Caravaggio's
Martyrdom of St. Catharine ; Ghuido's St. Agatha ; Andrea
SaccM's Apostles ; Cignano's Joseph and Potiphar's Wife.
Those worthy personages, the old King and Queen of
Spain, and the Prince of Peace, go out to take an airing
diumally, at the ventu-due e mezzo^* in two heavy coaches
and six, with outriders to dear the way, &c.
We understood that the paintings in the apartments of
their ex-majesties could not be seen without their own royal
permission; but as soon as this procession drove off to-day,
we went to try, having no other passport or introductioii
than & piastre. It is worthy of remark, that on oiur request
of admittance, it was declared to be " impossible ;" but, on
the production of this talisman, a pretended leave was
askea of some invisible person, and, lo! the doors were
opened.
Of the paintings, or other curiosities contained in tbese
regal chambers, however, I can give you no account, (a
loss I can suppose you capable of bearing with becoming
fortitude ;) but my companions of this morning could atone
for my deficiency, for they saw the whole collection, before
I had found out half the beauties of two splendid Murillos,
and hurried me away, without staying themselves to give
one glance to the great hall, painted in fresco by Pietro da
Cortona.
They carried me up the opposite staircase to the apart-
ments of the Prince of Peace, whose paintings have a merit
rare here, — ^that of being clean, and in gocS preservation.
They are worth seeing. There are many gooa copies, and
a few originals.
The garden of the Barberini Palace is pointed out as the
site where the ancient capitol of Numa Pompilius stood. X
* Half'past twenty-two o'clock, or one hour and a-half before
«im8et.
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AimSEA DEL 8ABT0. 109
^ow of no creditable anthoiiiy to support the opinion that
IN'uina, that priestly kin^, ever had a capitol on the then
uninhabited Quirinal HiU, for Plutarch seems to speak of a
house only. The minute and accurate livy would not haye
omitted mentioning it, had it existed, or been known to
exist ; and surely, m his day, he had more chance of dis-
covering that such a thing had been, than we have now.
FaiuIlzzo Soiabsa.
The proud lords of the Sciarra, one of whom in ancient
times struck a pope, whom he took prisoner, with his gaun1>-
let, now share with other tenants tneir only palace on the
Corso.
The other division of the Barberini paintings are in their
apartments; and as they are imimpau^d both in number
and value, they are one of the most select collections of any
in Eome.
There is here a Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto, which
is extremely admired. Andrea was so successful a copyist
of the works of Eaphael, that when that great master's
fiimous portrait of Leo X., between the Cardinals Medici
and Eossi, and his copy of it were placed side by side, Giulio
Somano, who had himself painted the draperies in that very
picture, after much attentive examination, pronounced An-
drea del Sarto's copy to be the original.
This poor man's real name was Andrea Yanucchi, but he
was called Andrea del Sarto from his father's trade, and
Amdrea senza errori from his own faultless works. They
might have been more &ultless, if he could have prolonged
his studies in Eome ; but it was his misfortune to be cursed
with a wife who embroiled him with all his friends, bereaved
him of his pupils, drew him from the patronage of Francis I.,
and involved him in debt and dishonour. In his last sick-
ness he was abandoned by the ungrateM woman for whom
he had sacrifled friends, K>rtune, lame, and integrity. He
died at the age of foriy-two, in the extremity of poverty,
misery, and even of famme.*
There is another Holy Family, by another great master of
the Florentine School, which I admired far more. It is by
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110 BOMB.
Tn* Baxtolomeo: tHe glow and fireslmess of colotcrmg in
this admirable pamting, the softness of the skin, the beauty
and sweetness of the expression, the look with which the
mother's eyes are bent upon the baby she holds in her arms,
and the innocent fondness with which the other child gazes
up in her fece, are worthy of the painter whose works
Eaphael delighted to study, and fipom which, in great mea-
sure, he formed his principles of colouring.
The cloister has produced many great logicians, theolo-
gians, and politicians; many renowned diplomatists, in-
triguers, and prime ministers ; indeed, more men versed in
the knowledge of this world, than could be expected from a
spot sancti&ed to the purposes of another ; but very few
poets, painters, or men of genius. It did not produce, but
rather Duried one, in Era' Bartolomeo della Porta; for he
entered the cloister in consequence of a rash vow, and was
persuaded, or obliged, from Mse scruples, to destroy all hk
studies and paintins^ in nudities. Lif^, and Sebastian del
Piombo, and several other great painters, however, emerged
from the cloister ; but by far the greatest number of cele-
brated painters have sprung from the lower classes. Giotto
was a shepherd ; Andrea di Mantegna, a cattle-driver ; Gas-
par Poussm, an errand-boy; Claude Lorraine, a pastry-cook;
Marcello Venusti, a colour-grinder ; Tintoretto, as his name
implies, the son of a dyer; Caravaggio, a plasterer; and
Saivator Eosa, a lazzarone in the streets of Naples.
Leonardo da.Yinci and Buonarotti were both of noble
birth, and both Florentines.* Leonardo so far surpassed all
his predecessors and contemporaries, that he seemed to be
the only painter in the world, till his fame was eclipsed by
Buonarotti, who was twenty-two years his junior. Perhaps
Buonarotti' s contempt for colouring was, in some measure,
derived from Leonardo's superiority in it. He chose to
imdervalue that in which he did not excel.
In their rival cartoons of the Battle of Pisa,t so decided
was the superiority of Michael Angelo's in design and com-
position, that the preference was unanimously given to it,
* Leonardo was bom in the villag^e of Yind on the Amo, near
Florence.
t Lanzi, Storia Pittori<Ja,
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LEOKABDO DA TUTOI. Ill
Bnt both these ffreat works were spoken of as prodigies of
art, and formed the study of succeeding artists, till they were
unfortunately, or rather maliciously, destroyed.
It is unfortunate for the fame of Leonardo, that both his
greatest works have perished. This cartoon disappeared
early; and his Last Supper, in the deserted refectory of the
Dominican convent at IVlilan, nearly destroyed by the French
soldiers who occupied this convent as a barrack, is scarcely
the shadow of a shade; indeed, it has been so often re-
touched and restored, that no trace of the original painting
is now supposed to remain.
Oonsid^mg these disasters, and the extreme slowness
with which he painted, for it is recorded that he was em-
? loved four years on the portrait of Qioconda alone ;♦ it is
ttiink, wonderfiil that so many of his works still exist, for he
was not only a painter, a sculptor, and architect, and an engi-
neer, but one of the most accomplished men of his age. In
poetry, music, dancing, fencing, and riding, he was unrivalled.
He invented a new lyrical instrument, formed chiefly of
silver, and he excelled as an improvisatore. He was the
delight and ornament of society m the court of the Duke
Sforza at Milan ; nor was his time entirely devoted to the
fine arts. His predilection for science, and his studious
habits, are proved by the voluminous manuscripts still
extant in his handwriting, in the Ambrosian Library at
Milan .t
His residence at Eome was short. The ill-judged and
iOib^ral sarcasms of Leo X. disgusted him, and the fiiend-
ship of Francis I. drew him to the French capital, where,
during a lingering and hopeless illness, he was cheered by
the unremittmg kmdness, and is even said to have expired
in the arms, of that amiable and noble-minded monarch.
The portrait of Leonardo, in the Gallery of Florence, by
♦ That it mght be four years before it was finished, I can believe;
but that he was employed four yeare solely upon painting one portrait,
is not credible, nor consistent with the activity of his mind and his
unwearied application.
t Nine volumes of these manuscripts have been retained in Paris,
whither the whole work was transported at the time the French plun-
dered Italy.
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112 BOMS.
bis own hand, is one of tho finest lieads, and the most
exquisite painting, I have ever seen. One of his best works
is in this palace, — ^Modesty and Vanity, which is, I think,
inferior only to his Herod's Daughter, in the IMbune at
Florence.
Here is a masterpiece of Caravageio's ; a sharper playing
at cards with a youth of fisunily and fortune, whom his con-
federate, while pretending to be looking on, is assisting to
cheat. The subject will remind you of. the Flemish school ;
but this painting bears no resemblance to it. Here is no
faxce, no caricature. It is true to nature ; and the expres-
sion, though admirably given, is not in the least overcharged.
Character was never more strongly marked, nor a tale more
inimitably told. It is life itself, and you almost forget it is
a picture, and expect to see the game go on. The colouring
is oeyond all praise.
Eaphael's Portrait of a Musician, a Mend of his own, ia
supremely beautiful.
There are two Magdalens, by Guide, almost duplicates,
and yet one is incomparably superior to the other. She is
reclining on a rock, and her tearful and uplifted eyes, the
whole of her countenance and attitude, speak the oyer^
whelming sorrow that penetrates her soul. Her face might
charm the heart of a stoic ; and the contrast of her youth
and enchanting lovelines, with the abandonment of grief, the
resignation of all earthly hope, and the entire devotion of
herself to penitence and to heaven, is so affecting, that it
has drawn tears from many an eye. Every picture in tho
last apartment is a masterpiece.
There are some fine Samts by Ghiercino ; a Portrait of a
Lady, by Bronzino; a capital Housemaid by Leonetta
Spada ; an exquisite painting by Giorgione ; and many more
that ought to be seen, and must be aSmired — ^but they can-
not be described ; for palaces appear before me in long array,
and before we have got through them, I shall have exhausted
both your patience and my own.
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XHl JOMOOmOILVU. US
LETTBELXm.
Thb Palazzi Mabsiki Ain> Spaba— Pomvit's Status—
Palazzo Cobtaoitti — ^Palazzo Mattel
Thx Palazzo MwwiTni, though one of the smalleflt and
worst Bituated of the Soman Palaces, is, I think, the
prettiest building of them alL The simplidtj of its Doric
portico and court particularly pleased me, and does great
credit to the taste of Balthazar Peruzzi, who was its archi-
tect. In those dajs eyerj painter was an architect ; yet I
cannot think the two arts well adapted to be united in the
same profession.
We visited this palace to see the &mouB Discobolus,*
which is the finest in the world. — at least, aboTe ground.
It is, indeed, an admirable piece of Grecian sculptiue, and
well worth seeing. It differs in nothing, except its supe-
riority of execution, from every other Discobolus. All of
them are ancient copies from one orimnal — ^the celebrated
Discobolus of bronze, the masterpiece of Myro.
Judas returning the thirty pieces of silver to the Chief
Priest, by Caravaggio, is tbe only painting here worth
looking at.
We were shown a chapel, formerly a bedroom, in which
that notable saint, Pilippo Neri, raised from the dead a son
of this noble house, on the 16th of March, 1583, in con-
sequence of which grand miracle S. Eilippo Neri was
canonized, the plsfce was consecrated, and a solemn service
is still annually performed in it upon the anniversary of the
day.
We Protestants, being, in the opinion of the Boman
Catholics, of the number of those "who will not believe,
though one came from the dead to tell us it is so," went
* Found in the grounds of the Villa Palombari, on the Esqnilino
HilL
TOL. II. I
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U4
awaj in tHe persuasion that the Humane Sodety worked
such miracles every day, though nobody made saints of them
ki consequence.
In the stables of the neighbouring Palazzo Pio, it is said
some of the remains of the walls of Pompey's Theatre may
be seen. I did not go to look for them.
Palazzo Sfada.
We afterwards visited the Palazzo Spada, to see the cele-
brated Statue of Pomt>e^, at the foot of which Cesar fell.
Every one knows that it wus found below the foundation*
wall of two houses, in a lane near the site of the Curia of
Pompey — ^that the proprietors, unable to settle to which of
them it belonged, tne nead being under one house and the
feet under the other, imitated the judgment of Solomon, and
resolved to cut it in two — and that a cuuning Cardinal^
heariug of this, persuaded the Pope to buy it,, and to make
him a present of it.
The statue is larger than life, and in the heroic styles--
that is, with no other drapery than the chlarnvs, which
covers one shoulder. The style is certainly not of first-rate
excellence, but tlus statue has an interest beyond all that
statuary can give ; and we ^azed upon it till the long-past
scene seemed again realized — till CsDsar, defending hmself
against the conspirators, saw at length the dagger of his
most trusted Mend ; and, willing to leave a world in which
faith and Mendship were empty names, exclaimed — " Et tu.
Brute!" as he folded his head in his robe, and sank in
c[eath.
But there is no recollection or belief that the fimcy loves
to cling to, that these vile antiquaries do not come with
their "doubts," to disturb. They "doubt whether this be
the statue of Pompey — Possibly an emperor, because he
carries the ^obe in his hand." An emperor! — ^But what
emperor P — They are all, except the last dregs of the empe-
rca», pretty well known. They took care to multiply their
persons, and what with statues, busts, medals, and coins, one
sees them so continually, that there is no mistaking their
physiognomy. I feel as intimately acquainted with the
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STATUE 01 POHFET. 116
twelve Csesars as if I iiad known them all mj life ; and the
countenance of the mild and martial Marcus AureLus, and
his coxcombid^il colleague, the whiakered Lucius Yerus ; the
plain features of Hadrian, and that dark ruffian Caracalla^s
unbending &own, are as familiar to me as my own &oe.
The statue of Fompej bears no resemblance to any known
emperor. Erom the style of sculpture, it cannot represent
any of the latter ones — ^it answers to the state of the arts
at the close of the EepubHc ; — it was found on the spot
where the Statue of Pompey stood; it bears a strong
resemblance to the head on nis medal, (published in the
Museo Eomano ;) and as to the objection of his bearing the
globe, was there any thing extraordinary in the adulation
of marking the extent of his conquests, by putting that
symbol into the hand of a victorious generid, whose triumphs
liad extended over the then known world, through Europe,
A&ica, and Asia ; and who^ tiU his gloiy was eclipsed Dy
the brighter star of Cessar, was the idol of the Eoman
people, and virtually the master of the world P No ! the
conviction is irresistible ; and in spite of all the antiquaries,
I will believe it to be the Statue of Pompey, that very
individual statue, at the foot of which ''great Cssar fell."
Eustace says, tiiat the arm of the statue was sawn off
by the French, in order that they might transport it with
more focilit^ to the Colosseum, where they acted before it
Voltaire's foolish tra^dy of the Death of Brutus. That
may be, but the arm is known to be a modem restoration ;
and, therefore, as the Erench only cut off what had before
been put on, they did no great harm. ELad the arm been
Ancient, the question as to the identity of the statue would
have been decided at once, for, if tliat of an emperor, it
would have borne the sceptre.
Winkelman says, that " if it be the statue of Pompey, it
is the only statue of a Eolnan citizen of republican times in
the heroic siyle." But it is the only statue of a Boman
citizen of republican times, in any slyle, that has come down
to our day; and how» therefore, can we be so very sure
that they were never so represented? All the statues of
CiesaTy the contemporary of Pompey, are in the heroic
I 2
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116 son.
style ; wlij, therefore, maj not thia P IndeeMi, the times of
Pompej and Cesar were no longer republican, except in
name. Wealth and Inxury had introduced as total a change
in manners as in politics. Ghreeoe had become the great
standard of perfection — ^the model of imitation; and, as we
kiow that Ix>mpe7, more particularly, affected to adopt the
arts and modes of the Greeks in eyerything, can we wonder
that his statue should be in the same stjle as all the statues
of their great men P
There are several pieces of ancient statuary here : th^
little Qod of Slumber reposes in the sweet sleep of infiant
innocence, his poppies luring in his ungrasped hand.
But the finest by far is the Statue of an old Philosopher,
sitting in a chair ; supposed to be intended for Antisthenes
listenmg to Socrates, an admirable piece of Grecian sculp^
ture.
There are two fine antique bas-relie&, which were brought
j&om the staircase of the Church of St. Aaaeajtiori le mtira,
representing Perseus liberating Andromeda, and Endymion
sleeping. They are duplicates of those in the Museum of
the Capitol.
There cannot be imagined a more deserted, dreary, de-
cayed, and deplorably dniy place, than this poverty-struck
Above stairs, there is a collection of pictures, some of
which are, or rather have been, good ; for they are cracked,
spoiled, defaced, and destroyed with damp and darkness,
dirt and neglect.
The best I observed among them were, St. Anne teaching
the Virgin to sew, admirable for its nature and truth, by
Caravag^o, in the style in which he excelled ; Christ led to
Crucifixion, by Andrea Mantegna; St. Jerome, by Albert
Purer; Lucretia^ and also a fine Portrait of a Cardinal,
(a Spada) by Guido.
There is a little practical perspective in the court, formed
by a dimiuishiTig colonnade, which ^ves the efiect of great
length, though really very short. It was made by Borro-
mini, whose genius 1 could wish had been confined to such
nice little works as these.
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PALAZZO OOSTAaUTI. 117
Palazzo Gobtaoitti.
The Palazzo Costaguti is a most dismal, dirty, miserable
place. Words cannot give you an idea of its utter wretcHed-
ness, and I could scarcely believe these forlorn, filthy cham-
bers were the residence of the.Marchesa I had seen blazing
in diamonds at the ♦♦**♦ ambassador's ball, the night
before. We visited it to see the ceilings, painted in fresco^
with which it was adorned in its earlier and more prospe*
rous days.
The first is by Albani. It represents the Centaur car-
mng off Dejanira, and Hercules slaying him with the arrow,
what it may have been, it would now be unfair to judge,
for the colouring is faded, and very little of the grace and
beauty of Albani remains.
The ceiling of the second room has fallen in; the de-
stroyed fresco was Polyphemus and Galatea, by Lanfranco.
I cannot be sony that the works of a man, whose envious
malignity pursuea the amiable Domenichino through life,
literally persecuted him to death, and defaced the matchless
frescos that he could not equal, should, by a sort of poetical
justice, be in turn destroyed.
In the third chamber Apollo appears in his car, drawn by
four horses, white, red, grey, and black — ^I suppose to re-
present the different tunes of the day ; but such horses !
they may be like heavenly steeds, but I am sure they bear
no resemblance to earthly ones. In a comer of the room is
old Time, seizing hold of a frightened woman called Truth*
I gazed with astonishment and disappointment on this
ceiling, for they say it is by Domenichmo. I can only say,
I hope not ; and that, I am sure, if Domenichino did paint
it, he never painted any thing else so bad. Amongst the
immense variety of frescos with which he has adorned £ome,
this is the only one unworthy of his genius.
Einaldo and Armida, borne through the air in the car of
the Enchantress, drawn by dragons, is by far the finest
fresco in this palace. It is by Guercino, and designed with
all his force and energy, heightened by all the splendour of
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118 BOM^.
his chiar'oscuro. The figure of Einaldo is^very fine; but
Armida is not what the poet's fancj would have painted.
Justice and Peace, by Laofiranco, so far as the extreme
darkness of the room would allow us to judge, is a very fine
painting ; but, perhaps, the uncertain light gave it an ima-
ginary beauty, as I have sometimes seen an ordinary womaa
look almost divinely lovely in the soft beam of feding twi-
light, or shaded moonlight ; and witnessed, for the first time,
scenes at that ma^c hour, which seemed beyond descrmtioa
beautiful, but which, when viewed in the garish eye of day,
were stripped of every charm.
Next — ^I saw
-Arion on a dolphin's back.
Uttering such pleasing and harmonioos breath,
That the rade sea grev civil at his song.
And certain stars &ot madly from their spheresy
To hear the minstrel's music."
Poetry apart, however, Arion on the Dolphin's back is a
beautiful paiating, by Bomanelli. Upon another ceiling, are
some Gods and Goddesses, and Peacocks, by the Cavaliere
d' Arpino ; and plenty of bad paintings, with high-sounding
titles, on the walls.
Palazzo Mattel
We have been several times' at the Palazzo Mattei, if pos-
sible a still more deplorable place than the Palazzo Costa-
guti, in order to see Eachael and Jacob, a fresco by Dome-
nichino, which, by a kind of fatality, we have never yet seen.
Our attempts have been all fruitless ; either we thundered
for half an hour at the door and got no answer, or, if we ob-
tained admittance, the Cardinal Mattei was in bed or at
dinner ; or else he had gone out with the key in his pocket,
even when a time had been fixed ; so that we have given it
up in despair. By means of oxa frequent visitations, we saw
some very fine ancient bas-reliefs in the court and on the
staircase, and one fine painting in the house — ^a Holy family,
painted by Parmegianp, with all that grace and captivating
sweetness to which he always aspired ; and without any of
that unfortunate affectation which too often marred his
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PALAUaO IC^TTXI. 110
works. Yet the best of them prove that he was a man-
nerist, and a close, though a successful imitator of Correggio.
But an imitator, in any of the fine arts, can never be great :
or, rather, a truly ^at genius wiU never be an imitator;
for the very act of imitation is a confession of inferiority.
Still, so beautiM are many of his paintings, that we cannot
but regret that this infatuated man should have wasted his
time, ms talents, his fortune, and his life, upon the wild and
visionary pursuit of alchemy, in which he blasted all his
hopes, and sacrificed even his integrity.
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120 BOMB.
LETTBEIXIV.
Pasqttik — Palazzo Beabchi — Palazzo QiUBTisiAm. —
Paittheok by Mooklioht — Palazzo BoBanxsE.
The mutilated statue of Pasquin* stands at tHe comer of
the Palazzo Braschi, where he has cut his caustic jokes for
many an age, and levelled, with impunity, his sarcasms
against priest^ and princes, popes and cardinals, church and
state.
The statue of Marforio, in the court of the Museum of
the Capitol, was his ancient respondent: but their witty-
dialogues and smart repartees are now at an end.
There is another mutilated figure in a street in Bome,
which is known by the name of Madam Lucretia,t but, un-
like the loquacity of her sex, she has always maintained a
strict silence.
Pasquinades, however, are still occasionally current in
Eome, though, perhaps, no longer affixed to Pasquin.
Amongst many smart epigrams and squibs of satire, some
of which would not be intelligible out of Eome, the follow-
ing seems to me one of the best, and it has, at least, as much
truth as point to recommend it.
" Yenditur hie ChriBtus, vendnntnr dogmata Petri,
Besoendam infemum ne quoque vendar ego."
Pasquin did not spare the French during tbeir stay here.
Among the many squibs against them he said,
" I Fiancesi son' tutti ladri."—
*' Kon tutti — ^ma Buona parte,**
was the anticipated reply.
* It received its name from Pasquino, a sarcastic tailor, vho used to
work at his shop hard by. Though excessively mutilated, it has evi-
dently been a fine piece of sculpture.
t This figure is usually supposed to have been an Lds.
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PABQtrnr Aim haxfobto.. 121
On a tremendous storm, which took pkoe after the de-
crees of Buonaparte were put in force at Bome, the fdlow-
ing somewhat pro&ne pasquinade appeared: —
^L'AltWmo in sii, d manda la tempests,
L'Altiflrimo qua giil, toglia quel che rests*
E fra le dne Altissimi,
Stiamo noi MalianmL**
Canova finished the figure of Itslj (a draped statue,) for
the tomb of Alfieri, about the time the French overran the
country. Soon afterwards the following appeared : —
" Quests volta Ganova Ilia sbagliato^
Ha ritalia yestita, ed e spogUata."
One of the best things of the kind, I think, was made on
the colonnade in front of Carlton House,t hj an Italian, a
man of some taste, who, being accustomed to see columns
supporting something, or of some use, stood amazed at the
si^t of tms sinecure row, and questioned them as to their
employment, thus —
"Care Colonne ! che &te qflkT
" Non sapplamo in yeiitH,"
was their innocent reply.
But to return to the Palazzo Braschi. As you ascend the
staLrcase, you will be struck ¥dth its noble architecture,
which is in the most chaste and classical taste. The stairs
are led up between a colonnade formed of columns of red
Oriental granite, the high polish of which accords well with
the lustre of the yariegated marbles, of which the stairs and
ballustrades are composed, and with the graceful symme-
try and just design of the whole. The coup^'oeil, as we
mounted it the other night, when brilliantly lighted up for
a grand fete giyen by the Austrian ambassador, was more
striking than any thing of the kind I eyer saw.
* On the yisit of the Emperor Francis to Borne in 1819, a pasquinade
appeared free from this &iQt : —
"Gandinm Urbia. Fletns Proyincianun. Risos Mmidi."
f Formed by a long range of remarkably beantifhl, but unmeaning,
useless columns. The Colonnade and Palace of oouise disappeared
together.
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123 BOia.
Like most of tlie noble &inilie8 of Borne, the Duca di
Braschi no longer inhabits his patem^palace. His was the
crime of being the nephew of Pius Vl., and consequently
of opposing the surrender of Borne to Erench despotism.
It was atoned for by the confiscation of his pro^rfy; and
amidst the wreck of his fortune, and the dispersion of his
&mil7, the Palazzo Braschi was left in unfinished magni-
ficence.
In the gallery of the palace, the bare unnlastered walls
of which torm a striking contrast to its noble proportions,
stands the beautiful Colossal Statue of Antinous, which was
dug up on the site of the ancient Ghabii, bj the late Oavin.
H^mlton. Its colossal size was probably the cause why it
was not removed to Paris ; for the late conquerors of Italy
could have had no scruples of conscience in appropriating
this statue, if they could conveniently have carried it ofi^
after seizing upon every other piece of sculpture belonging
to that unfortunate fiunily that was worth taldn£;.
I do not recollect anj thing more in this gfdlery worthy
of notice ; but my eyes were so entirely engrossed by the
matchless beauty of Antinous, that I could hx)k at nothing
else ; and scarcely, as I gazed upon it, could I wonder that
Hadrian believed that form to be inhabited by a god.
This admirable piece of sculpture is secluded from the
Sublic eye hj the present inhabitant of this palace, the
Lustrian minister. As we we were acquainted with him
and his amiable fiunily, we had no difficulty in seeing it ;
but I cannot admire this system of exclusion.
Pix^zo GiusTiNiAiirr.
The ancient and wealthy Giustiniani fiunily are now
beggars, and their palace is inhabited by strangers. All its
fine paintings are gone. We inquired m vain for Poussin's
Massacre of the Innocents, Domenichino^s St. John the
Evangelist, Annibale Carracci's Chiist and the Cananean, or
Caravaggio's Incredulity of St. Thomas. It would be easier
to make a list of what this palace has lost, than what it pos-
sesses. There is not a single good painting left. We were
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Tisw or THX -pAjsnaois. 128
eihown a great ntunber of frightM daubs, each of whicH was
dignified witli the name of some great artist. I once asked
the man if he was certain one he called a Domenichino was
an original, — ^to' which he replied, " Ori^finalissimo, Signora!"
This snperlatively original painting was so superlatively-
bad, that it was weU the spirit of Domenichino, wno, during
his life, was accustomed to eveiy insult, could not know this
greater opprobium cast upon him after his death.
This palace is built upon the ruins of Nero's Baths, and
a prodigious quantity of statuary, of all kinds, was found
in them, which once adorned its magnificent ealleries and
spacious halls ; but the finest of the statues, like the pic-
tures, have disappeared.
An immense number are still standing, in utter confusion,
in a set of miserable, unfurnished, dusty, and desolate apart-
ments ; and though the most part of the busts and statues
are mutilated, and aU of them are discoloured and abomin-
ably dirty, there are many among them of very fine sculp-
ture. Among these I will only mention the Statue of Mar-
cellus, in the hall, and a youthM male figure, the Torso of
which is very fine ; but it is badly restored, which, indeed,
is the case with many of them.
The Etruscan Vestal is not allowed to be Etruscan, and
seldom acknowledged to be a Yestal ; but she is unquestion-
ably very ancient* — too ancient to be perfect. There is an
admirable goat dose beside her, which I liked much better ;
and there is the statue of the little Harpocrates, holding up
his finger and looking wise— a sod I always admire, though
I cannot be reckoned among his disciples. Pray, can you tell
me why the ancients gave the Qod of Silence a cornucopia?
The best view of the Pantheon is from the windows of
this palace. I saw it by moonlight, when the softened light
gleamed beautifully in silver lines upon the tail columns of
tho portico, more distinctly marked by the dark shade of
the intercolumniations, while the serenity of the s^, and
the stillness that reigned over eveiy thing, made its Deauty
more deeply felt.
* Winkelman " dar^ not maintain that it is the work of any
Etmacan artist;' but thinks it is " perhaps, the most ancient statue in
Borne.
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124 XOKX.
You will wonder wliat took me to the GKiuitiziiani VtiBcih'
at night, but we hjippened to be diniog^ with Count Funchali^
the rortaguese ambaMador, wbo lives tbeie ; and, as it waflf
moonlight, I took the opnortunitj of looking oat at i3a»
Pantheon; ever since whicn time, his excellency has entiof^.
tained a rooted conviction that I am slightly deranged ; aiid>
never sees me without asking, if, when the moon is at the
full, I will not return to h^ house to see the Pantheon^
** Well, that is what I don't understand," said an. Italian'
Principessa, when he told her of this extraordinaty fancj of
mine — " for, certainlj, one can see plainer in the daj-time
than the night." •
Palazzo BosaHSSE.
The Palazzo Bor^hese, one of the largest and handsomest
palaces in Eome, is now inhabited omj hj Pauline, the
sister of Buonaparte, and the wife of the Pirince Borghese,
who himself lives constantly at Florence. This bunding,
which would seem large enough to contain some hundreds of
people, is, apparently, too small for a single lady ; for there
is another, *' JJ Palazzo deUa Bamiglia Borghese,^^ to which
my unlucl^ stars once conducted me ; and its filth and foul
oaours have left an uneffaceable impression upon the re-
membrance. The famiglia^ in modem as in ancient Soman
davs, means the servants; and not the domestic servants
only, but the tradespeople, all of whom are included in this
comprehensive term ; and this horrible hole, of which I have
been speaking, is inhabited by the artisans who are, as well
as by many who are not, employed in the service of the
Borghese.
When a Eoman prmce has, or hady a grand entertainment,
(for such a thing rarely occurs now,) all the tailors, shoe-
makers, joiners, carpenters, upholsterers, smiths, and arti-
sans, whom he employed, were dressed out in state liveries,
kept for this purpose finom generation to generation ; and,
for the time being, were turned into footmen. Therefore it
* Kon lo capiflco— <U certo, si pud vedere piU chlaro da giomo che
danotte.
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ITAUAir HBBTAim . 125
was no uncommon thing on the day of a ftte to see half a
hundred liyeiy eer^ants ; but if jou returned when it was
over, JOU would not find half a dozen.
It 18 a literal fact that, happening to return to the PAhMse
of a Eoman nobleman rather earlj on the morning aoter a
ball, in order to inquire after a croBS of jewels I had lost, I
found, in the gre^fc hall, piles of liyerj-coats, and the Frinci-
pessa herself teUing them oyer.
It was not, howeyer, the Prindpessa Borghese, who is a
Terr different personage.
Some years ago Oanoya scuptured a statue of this lady, as
Yenus, and it is esteemed by himself one of the yery best of
his works. No one else can have an opportunity or judging
of it, for the prince, who certainly is not jealous of his wife's
person, is so jealous of her statue, that he keeps it locked up
in a room of the Bor^ese Palace at Bome, of which he
keeps the key, and not a human being, not eyen Ganoya
himself, can get access to it.
The fine Museum of Sculpture which the prince gave to
Buonaparte in exchange for the bubble of the Yiceroyalty
of Turm, is irreparably gone ; but the principal part of the
paintings are now restored, and form by far me best collec-
tion of any in Bome. They appear to eyery disadyantage,
for they are arranged in a suite of yery ill-lighted apartments
on the ground-floor; the only ground-floor I ever remember
to haye seen inhabited in Bome.
The Domenichinos, the Titians, and the Albanos, are cer-
tainly the finest in Bome. Domenicluno's Sibyl^ and his
Aborts of Diana and her Nymphs, are works that no praise
of mine can do justice to. 1 haye returned to them again
and again with undiminished delight, and found them as
new, and quite as beautiM, the twentieth time as the
first. They are by far the finest of this fine collection of
paintings.
Titian's Graces are yery fat, not yery young, and dressed
in yery old-fashioned gowns; but they are exquisitely painted.
They are employed in binding Oupid. But, out of Venice,
I haye seen nothing of Titifoi's to compare to his Sacred
and Profane Loye, which is here. It represents two figures,
one, a heayenly and youthful form, unclothed, except with a
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126 Bon.
light drapery; tho other^ a lovely female, dressed in the most
splendid attire ; both are sitting on the brink of a well, into
which a little winged Love is groping, apparently to find his
lost dart.
Description can give you no idea of the oonsummate beauty
of this beautiful composition. It has all Titian's matchless
warmth of colouring, with a correctness of design no other
painter of the Venetian School ever attained. It is nature,
but not individual nature ; it is ideal beauty in all its per-
fection, and breathing life in all its truth, that we belK>ld.
And, if the character of Profane Love has too much in it of
Sacred, such is the charm of the expression, tliat what we
criticise as a fault, we yet admire as a beauty. For this
Eowerful genius has not only called down Divine Love from
eaven, but ^ven to Earthly Love that character of senti-
ment and feeling that allies it to divinity.
There are several other Titians, and some yeTj fine ones.
His Prodigal Son is a splendid painting. The Woman
kneeling in Supplication before Christ, wants the greatness
of manner his better works display.
Here are Y onuses in abundance ; but the true painter
of Venus, in my opinion, was Albani. It was he who in-
vested her with those captivating graces and charms tiiat
seem to spring from the magic cestus, and proclaim her the
Queen of Love. It may be a £i>ult, the continual repetition,
of the same &ce in all his paintiQe;s, however lovely and
engaging ; but when we remember that it was the counte-
nance of his wife he loved to draw, we willingly pardon it.
He has represented Venus in four different pictures;
1st, borne on her triumphant car, and surrounded by her
laughing Loves ; 2ndly, equippii^ herself at her toilette ;
3r<uy, busy at Vulcan's furnace, rorging arrows for Cupid;
and, lastly, gazing enamoured upon Adonis, which is the
masterpiece of the whole.
David with Gbliath's Head is a masterly work of Cara-
vaggio's. It has all his strong lights and nervous energy;
but it wants what he always wanted, elevation ; though the
ghastly expression of the head, the livid lips, and the d^ndlj
paleness of David himself, gave it all the norrible effect he
could have desired.
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St. Anthony Preaching to the Fishes, bj Fbul YeronaBe,
is one of the oddest paintings I ever saw. The saint is on a
rock, and hi9 %are, especiaUy his right leg, is much admired
hj the cognoscenti. The groups that surround him, in
various listening attitudes, are admirable; but they occupy
only one small corner of the picture ; the rest is one waste
of Dright dauby green — sea and sky, douda and ether, all
the same shade of grass-green. I concluded that the blues
had turned green, never oonceiring that any body would
thiok of painting a green sky; but was assured by a con*
noisseur ihat it was quite correct, and done on purpose; that
the painting would otherwise have been worth nothing, and
that it was extremely fine. If so, it is certainly the most
simple receipt for fine painting I ever heard of.
BEffmegiano's St. Catharine, his favourite subject, has great
grace and sweetness in the face, great elegance and flow of
outline, and none of his usual affectation.
I cannot give the same praise to Leda, by Leonardo da
Vinci, which is distorted, even to Rightfulness, with excess
of affectation.
Elizabeth Sirani's painting, on touch-stone, of Judith in
the act of prayer, before she muiders the sleeping Holo-
femes, is by mr the best of her productions I have ever
seen. A mere imitator can never be great, and she was cer-
tainly a mere imitator of Guido ; but in this little work she
seems to have felt the true spirit of her master.
A landscape, by Annibale Carracci, is a beautiful compo-
sition, and the head of St. Erancis is extremely fine. Oigon's
St. !EVancis, a full-length, is an excellent painting. The
divine expression of the uplifted eyes, and the hands clasped
in transport, the force of the design, and the glow of
colouring, are admirably thrown out by the cold dai^ back-
ground.
Christ tied to the Column, designed by Michael Angelo
Buonarotti, and painted by Sebastian del riombo, is a very
fpnmd work. The Saviour is not too much hinnanized; even
m the lowest state of ignominy and degradation, he is
undebased. The Divini^ speaks in each gesture and
lineament; and while we execrate the impious hand that
could lift the scourge against that suffering spirit, we
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shudder ta tUiik bqcIi wretches were of the same nature
with ouiselyes.
Baphael's Deposition from the Cross, is said to be one of
his earliest paintings ; but it is not in the stiff stretched-ont
style of Retro Femgino ; and though it leas unquestionabty
done before he had staid long enough at Florence to hare
studied the works of the Morentine School,* it is, even in
design, a nmsterlj performance. The body is being borne
to the Sepulchre, and the bearers, and the whole croup that
surround it, with all their varying expressions and passions,
are extremely fine. We behold grief under every varying
form. St. Peter, old, sober, and sorrowful; his srej ludrs,
and sUent, composed, vet deep-seated affliction, finely con-
trasting with the passionate sorrow of Mary Magdalen, at
his side ; but the "Virgin, and the unutterable heart-breaking
agony of spirit expressed in her fiunting form, touches the
heart the most powerfully. It was a beautiful thought, for
painting could never have expressed overwh|elming griei^
such as hers, but by insensibili^. The distinction bei^een
her figure and that of the dead Christ, is finely and strongly
marked. Though both are pale and lifeless, m her you see
it is the suspension of hfe, in him a total extinction ; that
she will revive to all the bitterness of affliction; but that the
soul which animated his diviue form is fled for ever.
The coldness, the rigidity, the insensibility of death, are
strikingly portra3red ; but those touching features, and that
paUid corpse, while they tell of mortal sorrows and suffer-
ings, still bear the hope and the sublimity that are triumph-
ant over the grave ; and we gaze upon them till we almost
exclaim, — ^** How beautiful is death ! '
Baphael's admirable Forfcrait of that monster CsBsar
Borgia, his fine Fortrait of a Cardinal, Benvenuto Garo-
ffilo's Deposition from the Cross, Gior£;ione's Saul and Go-
liath's Read (exquisite colouring), a lovely Yenus in the
Bath, by GiuHo Bomano, Venus and Adonis, by Luca Cam-
biasi, Lanfranco's Oreo seizing Lucilla (from Ariosto), and
Leonello Spada's exquisite Concert of six men and a boy,
are amongst the pictures I remember best. But this cata-
* Lanzi, Storia Plttoiica.
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BOSGHXIV Cb^LLBBT.
lo^ne, unooiiflcionable as you may tbink it, does not com-
pnse one half of those worth notice in this oollection, which
contains the greatest number of fine ones, and the fewest
bad^ of any in Borne.
TOL. n.
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180 soxi«
LETTER LXV.
"Palazzo Lttciaito.
LxroiEN BtroNAPABTE, the prince of Oanino, has purchased
a large palace in the Via de' Condotti, for his winter re-
sidence. A very small part of it is inhabited hj himself;
the rest is let to a variety of lodgers. This seems somewhat
extraordinary, since he is said to be immensely rich.
I cannot applaud his liberality in refusing all strangers,
excepting those personally acquainted with Mm, permissioa
to view the admirable paintings his fine taste has coUected.
We, indeed, were not sufferers by this illiberal, and I fear,
more peculiarly our English system, being among the pri-
vilegea few ; but- the more we admired them, the more we
regretted the general exclusion of our countrymen horn the
PsQazzo Luciano.
This collection is small, but entirely composed of masteiv
pieces, and kept in beautiful preservation ; a very unusual
circumstance in £ome. Many of the famous pictures of the
Giustiniani Gallery have found their way here.
The Massacre of the Lmocents, a most masterly, but
horror-striking pamting, by Nicholas Poussin, makes us
shudder while we gaze, yet rivets us before it. It is a com-
plete tragedy. The agony of the mother is given, even to
the extremity of nature itself, and her screams seem to reud
the very heart.
Christ before Pilate, the masterpiece of Gherardo delle
Kotti, is extremely fine ; and he must be wedded to system
indeed, who would refuse his admiration to such a work, be-
cause, forsooth, * he does not approve of candle-lights.' No
lights wiU enlighten such critics as these — critics who think
and feel by rule, and never know what it is to yield to the
Ijipontaneous judgment of nature and truth.
But, among aU the various and inviting attractions of this
collection, the masterpieces of the Caracei drew my unsa-
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PALAWI LrCIAHO. 181
tiated admirstioii. I can find no words to opeak my praue
of ' Cbrist ^ving sight to the Blind,' hj Ludovico Cancel ;
'Christ and Marr Magdalen,' hj Annibale Caracd; or
' Baising the Widow's Child from the dead,' hj Aeostino
Caracd. I may be wrong, but to me, these works of these
three great masters surpass eren the celebrated ones at
Bologna. Thej are, indeed, works of such surpassing per-
fection that I may not trust myself to speak my sense of
their beauty, for I feel that I could not restrain myself; and
that, like Dr. Johnson, I can better practise abstinence than
temperance. For the same reason I lorbear to describe (nor
eould I) the exquisitely beautiful Holy Family of Baphael ;
(Za Madonna de* Oandelahri;) Christ and the Woman of
Samaria, by Qiulio Bomano; Titian's Diana suiprised by
Acts^n ; Domenichino's Saint John and other Samts, ador-
ing the Virgin; GKddo's St. Cecilia, (a divine head, in a
turban, playing on the violin ;) Christ expiring on the Cross,
designea by Michael Angelo Buonarotti; and many other
first-rate paintings. Here are some noble portraits. One
of the Dukes d'Urbino, (I could not leam which ; and could
only hope it was that of the good and great Federijgo,) by
Baphael; Bubens, by Vandyke; one of Bubens's Wives, by
himself; Francis I., by Holbein ; and several others,
e Our artists complain that portrait-painting cramps their
genius, and ruins their fame. But these are portraits that,
of themselyes, would confer immortality on the hfmd that
painted them. !Neyer, then, let it be said, that this branch
of the art affords no field for eminence. If Baphael, and
O^tian, and Gioi^one, and Bubens, and Bembrandt and
Vandyke, and Velasquez, had neyer painted any thing else,
their works would have been invaluable, and their names
imperishable.
Here is an admirable painting by Van Molle, Diogenes
idth a lantern looking out for an Honest Man; an Old
Woman vdth a Do^, by Francesco Mola (capii^); and
Modesty and Vanity, oy Leonardo da Vinci, a duplicate, (per-
haps the original,) of that in the Sciarra Palace. But this is
only rehearsmg a list of names — ^names that call up to me
all the unspeaJcable beauty of the originals, but which, to
you, must be a dull, dry, unmeaning catalogue.
K 2
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182 tOKM.
LBTTEBLXVL
Palazzo Nuovo m Toblowia.— Paiazzo FAixioirasEi— *
CAMUoonn aitd his Colleotiok.
NoBiLiTT ifl more oertamlj the fruit of wealth in Itafy
than in England. Here, where a title and estate are sold
together, a man who can buy the one secures the other.
Prom the station of a lacquey, an Italian who can amads
riches, may rise to that of a duke. Thus Torlonia, the
Boman banker, purchased the title and the estate of the
Duca di Bracdano, fitted up the JPalazzo Nuovo di 2hrlonia
with all the ma^;nificence that wealth commands; and a
marble gallery, with its polished walls, lofty columns, inlaid
floors, Inodem statues, painted ceilings, and ^ded furnitur^,
far outshines the faded splendour of the halls of the old
Boman nobility.
The new gdlery is adorned with Canova's colossal group
of Hercules and Lychas, which is by no means one of his
finest works. Like Guide, the forte sMe is not suited to his
beautiful genius ; and the sculptor of Venus, with all her
smiling ti^in of Loves and G-races, could not do justice to
the frantic giant, maddened with the pain of the poisoned
immtle, and hurling its wretched bearer into the gulf— a hor-
rible subject, which would have suited Michael Angelo, if it
had suited statuary at alL
The fresco of the Marriage of Cupid and Psyche, by
Camucdni, — incomparably the first modem historical painter
of Italy, — ^unhappify reminds one of BaphaeVs beautiful
&ble in the Eamesina. But the composition is good with«
out plagiarism, and it is admirably designed. In design,
indeed, Camuccini excels ; and it is no light praise. I can-
not say so much for the colouring ; and on this account, the
'Original sketch, which we saw at his own studio, is fiur supe-
rior to the finished painting.
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GAIiLEBY OF OABDINAL FESCH. IM
Palazzo FM.coinxsi.
' The Palazzo Palconieri, when this work was first published,
was occupied bj Cardinal Fesch, the uncle of Bonaparte,
and contained a large and valuable collection of the Italian,
Plemish, and Erench schools. It is now dispersed in con-
sequence of his death, and consequently would have been
passed over unnoticed but for one remarkable work, the
^lutation of Elizabeth, origuially painted in fresco on the
wall of the Church of Santa Maria deUa Pace, in which are
the Sybils of Baphael, and taken off on canvas (that hazardous
operation) in which the Prench destroyed, as was supposed
irremediablj, the great masterpiece of Daniel da Yolterra,
although it was subsequently almost miraculously restored
by a secret process invented bj Camuccioi. But this admi-
rable paintmg (the Salutation of Elizabeth) designed by
Michel Angelo, and painted by Sebastian del Piombo, to
whose merits no description of mine can do justice, was suc-
cessfully transfered from fresco to canvas, and was, as I have
stated, m the possession of Cardinal Fesch up to his death.
Where it is now and who is the fortunate possessor of this
treasure, I know not.
The whole of Cardinal Eesch's noble gallery of pictures
was offered by him, in the last years of his life, for sale to the
English government, for an annuity of £4iOOO per anntmi !
I do not hesitate to say that this single picture was worth the
price to the British nation. The works of the great masters
are too few and too inaccessible in our country to those who
most require their study — ^young artists, whose early promise
is often entirely bhghted by the want of this inestimable
advantage. This large and varied collection would have formed
the nucleus of a grand national museum of paintings, not
then even projected, nor until long afterwards. But this
great opportunity, by the parsimony of our government, in
all that relates to the Pine Arts, was lost for ever.
Another of the treasures of this collection was the Ascen-
sion, by Guide, one of the most splendid of his works. The
grandeur of conception, the glowing; colouring, and the divine
expression of the Virgin's face^ radiant like that of a celestial
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184 soicKi
beioj; or beatified spirity ''with less of earth in it than hea-
Ten, can never be forgottoi. It aeems, literaQj, one blaze
of glory.
This reminds me of another admirable picture of Ghiido's
— the two Mary's weeping at the foot of the Cross. Dark*
ness covers the earth. The pale and cold form of the cruci-
fied Eedeemer — ^the divine expression of his face, even in
death — ^and the agony of the soul that darkens the counten*
anees of the two Mary's — ^find their way to the heart.
This picture, with many others of rare merit, was in the
private collection of Gamuccini, who ranked highest among
the modem painters of Borne when this work was first pub-
lished; and though probably this most choice collection has
been dispersed by his death, I cannot forbear enumerating a
few of them, particularly Q-uido's Madonna adoring the
!bifant Chnst. The infimt was perfectly enchanting; the
glossy smoothness and purity of the skin — ^the sweetness
and innocence of the slumber — ^the health of the cheek — and
the nature *and grace of the attitude, could not be su]T)assed.
This is a proof that Guido knew how to suit his colouring
to his subject. The rosy hues of infSancv, in his sleeping
children, and the dazzling brightness of his Ascension, are
not less adapted to their peculiar expressions, than those
pale silveinr tones, that give such pathos to the countenances
of his suffering martyrs, his supplicating Magdalens, or his
sainted Madonnas. What I have heard called the faults of
Guido's colouring, I have often felt are beauties. They
accord so touchingly with the expression, that the want of
glow and life is more than compensated by their sweetness
and perfect harmony.
But perhaps the gem of this choice collection was a beau-
tiful little original sketch, by Baphael, in sepia; a mere
scratch on a bit of parchment ; which, more than the ** circle
drawn at a stroke,' marks the masterly genius of that incom-
parable painter. Although not lar^r thm my hand, yet what
IS there that the most finished pamting should have, that is
wanting to this hasty sketch ? The astonishing genius of
the composition, the chasteness of the desi^, and the pow-
erful expression, I can never sufficiently admire. The subject
is the I>epo8ition of Christ, in the moment in which his
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VAUOSaO VAX.001CIXBI. 135
Bttnted form is to be deposited within its Iftst eartbk home,
hj his cUflciples. The grouping of such a number or figures
in 80 small a space, the yanous expressions of the same paa*
skm — ^but, aboTe all, the Virgin in an agony of affliction, em*
bracing the feet of Jesus, — ^her long nair falling over her
head, and her figure, her action, her hidden countenance,
more deeply expressive of the abandonment and desolation
of srief, than all that the most laboured effects of the pencil
oomd otherwise have done — ^are txt beyond my feeble praise.
Esther before Ahasuerus, from the Barberini Collection,
one of Ghiercino's finest works, and in his best style, was
also here.
The portrait of Scaliger, bjr Annibale Caracci; and that of
Sebastian del Piombo, exquisitely painted by himself, are
truly admirable ; also the portrait of Lavinia, Marchesa di
Pescara, by birth one of the princesses of the Golonna family,
said to be designed by M. A. Buonarotti, and painted by
Harcello VenustL This distinguished woman waa the Mend
of Michael Angelo, and of every contemporary man of genius,
and was hersen a being of most extraordinary endowments.
She was a celebrated improvisatrice, and gemus, sensibility,
and intelligence beam on her beautiful &ce. She has chosen
to be drawn with no symbols of science — a pretty little dog
is sitting on her arm.
The Sketch of a Head, by Leonardo da Yinci; and an
Ecce Homo, by GadLo Dolce, are extremely fine. So also, is
a beautiful little group of Cupid borne along by the Loves,
who are sporting around him, by Quido.
There was a Claude, a duplibate of one in the Louvre — a
Sea-port, Boats, Ships, and figures on the Beach, illumined
by those golden beams of sunset that Claude alone could
paint.
The Gods and Goddesses, travestied, holding a sort of
burlesque masquerade, is a veiy curious and valuable painting,
by Gian Bellini, the master of Titian, and father of the
V enetian School The landscape, which is painted by Titian,
is, like all Titian's landscapes, truly beautind. Gian Bellini
was &r superior to his brother, Gentile Bellini, whose fame,
however, must have spread even to the utmost depths of the
Ottoman seraglio, for Mahomet 11. invited him to Constan-
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186 BOMS.
tinople, Bat to him for his picture, loaded him with presents,
and treated the painter of Venice with all the pomp and
splendour of Asiatic magnificence. But it unluckily hap-
pened that Gentile painted a Decollation of St. John the
Baptist; and Mahomet, who, no doubt, had firequentlj
studied the subject in nature, descried a defect in the man-
ner in which the blood spouted out in the picture, and, after
making his criticism, very cooUy turned round, and ordered
the head of a slave who happened to stand near him to be
instantly struck off before their eyes, by way of illustration,
in order that Gentile might see his error. The unfortunate
paini^r was so terrified at this sight, that he scarcely felt
certain that his own head was upon his shoulders, and neither
could sleep by night nor rest by day, till he obtained Maho-
met's permission to return to Venice, where heads were not
chopped off by way of experiment.
Camuccini possessed some exquisite firescos of Domeni-
chino, which, for want of room, were locked up in a sort of
coach-house, along with some marbles, of the most beauti^
sculpture, brought from the Forum of Trajan ; those in alto-
relievo were amongst the finest I ever saw.
What may have become of these invaluable treasures of
art now, I Imow not.
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7ALA8E0 coRsnrt. 187
LETTEELXVn.
The Pasitesika, Ths Cobbiki, ajstd Easitsbi Palaces.
Yoir may generaDy form a tolerably correct conjecture of
what a gallery will contain, as to subject, before you
enter it.
A certain quantity of Landscapes, a great many Holy
Pamilies, a few CrucifixionB, two or three Pietiis, a reason-
able proportion of St. Jeromes, a mixture of other Saints
and Martyrdoms, and a large assortment of Madonnas and
Magdalens, make up the principal part of all the collections
in Kome ; which are generally composed of quite as many bad
as good paintings, like this at the Corsini Palace.
How much more pleasure there would be in seeing them,
if the good were placed apart for your inspection, and you
were not sickened and disgusted with the quantity of rubbish
you must sift, to find those really worth looking at !
I have been persecuted all this morning with a connois-
seur, fiill of the cant of connoisseurship witnout one particle
of real feeling for the beauties of the art — a man who walks
about the world, seeing, and thinking, and feeling, with
other peoples' eyes, and understanding, and taste— who
does not say what he thinks, but thinks what he shidl say —
who is, in short a determined dilettanti by rule. But, per-
haps, what he is to me I am to you, for, though no connois-
seur, I may be sufficiently^ wearisome; and as one's own
Bufferings cuspose one to pity those of others, I will endea-
Tour to mitigate yours, and give you a Teiy short account of
a very large gallery of pictures.
The first we saw was the * Ecce Homo* of Gnercino, a
painting which, notwithstanding the painful nature of the
subject, and all its hackneyed representations, is full of such
deep and powerful expression, is so elevated in its concep-
tion, and so faultless m its execution, that it awakens our
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196 BOKB.
Ugheet admiration, and leayea an indelible impression on
the mind.
There are two fine portraitB, Paul III. when Cardinal
Pamese, and Julius II., by Eaphael. If the last be an
original, it is a triplicate at least, for I have seen one at
Florence, another at Naples, and another subsequently at
Dresden. There is, besiaes, an admirable Portrait by Gior-
gione, and a Babbit, and a Cardinal by Albert Durer ; two
Cardmals by Domenichino, and a Pope by Velasquez — ^aU
good, though Velasquez does not, in this effort, reach his
usual excellence in portrait-painting ; and Scipione di daeta
has left a portrait here which would certainly not entitle
him to the name of * the Vandyke of the Boman School.'
Tintoretto's portrait of a Doge, I could not be brought to
admire. That most rapid of painters was also the most un*
equal, and his inequality was unpardonable, because wilfuL
With more avidity for money than fame, he would paint
pictures to any price, and proportion their merit to their
cost ; and he, who could finish historical pieces faster than
others could conceive them,* would throw portraits off his
hands that would have disgraced his meanest apprentice.
One of the Albania in this collection, in which Cupid is
supplicating Venus to restore his arrows which she has
tasen from him, is full of c;race and beauty.
Murillo's Virgin and Child is a splendid piece of colour-
ing, and nature itself; but there is nothing^ elevated or ideal
in it. Let us fancy it a mother and baby m the lower walks
of life, and it will have no fault.
To Caravaggio's Holy Familjr the same remark applies.
There is nothmg holy in it ; but it is a beautifulpaanting in
its way, and true to nature. Fra Bartolomeo's Holy Family
is of a much higher class, and is one of the best of hia
works in Borne. Many other good, though not first-rate
paintings, are dispersed about the rooms; amongst these,
a spirited Tiger Hunt, by Bubens, in his best style, caught
our attention. There are two beautiful little landscapes by
* He completed his grand oompoeition in the Scuola di Sant' Bocoo,
before the other artists employed to paint the rest of the hall had half
done their sketches. Nobody can judge of Tintoretto oat of Venice^
any more than of Baphael out of Borne.
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OOBSIKI 0A&DXK8. 189
Sahrator Eosa, without bis umial manneriflm and bluckneas.
But the real treasures of the collection are the landsci^B of
Ghispar Foussin ; one, in particular, which they call Binaldo
and Armida, cerfcainlj has something of the witchery of the
enchantress about it, for it charmed me so much, that I
returned to the palace again and again to look at it. A
Judith with the head of Holofemes, which I saw this mor^
ning, reminded me a little of that exquisite painting Jbr Bron-
zino,* of the same subject, in the Palazzo Htti at Florence.
The extreme calmness and placidity which Judith usually
wears after perpetrating a deed of such blood and horror,
is surely unnatural and disgusting. Perhaps there is no-
thing so revolting as the semblance of cruelty in woman.
Painters would do well to remember Aristotle s precept to
the sex, — "that women should never leave theur natural
character, nor appear invested with cruelty or boldness."
This palace was the habitation of Christina of Sweden,
who certainly did not follow that excellent precept. The
room in which she died is distinguished by two columns of
yellow-painted wood. This collection of paintings has been
formed since her death. So also has the library, which is a
very fine one, and possesses a most valuable collection of
prints ; but I will spare you the description. Do not, how-*
ever, forget to see it.
"With that liberality characteristic of the Italians in every
thing relating to liteniture and the arts, this library is open
to the public.
The gardens are quite in the Italian style, very stiff and
formal, divided with nigh evergreen hedges, decorated with
bad statues, and furnished vdth multifarious aiuoehi d* oc-
gua. The war is carried on most successfiilhr against na-
ture and taste; and the grounds are more mghtful than
you would a priori have thought it possible to have made
them, beneath such a sky as this.
They extend to the summit of Mount Janiculum ; and the
view from the Casino at the top is said to be very beauti^,
though inferior to that from 8. Pietro in Montorio. I will
not speak of what I have not seen — ^accidental circumstances
* HU proper name was Cristofiino AUori, detto il Bronzino,—- a title
sometimes allso given to his brothers, who were painters.
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140 BOMl.
haTepreTenied me from visiting it, but I haye no doubt tbe
prospect would amply recompense the toil of tbe ascent.
Thx PABiTBsnrA.
The Corsini is one of the many uninhabited palaces in
the deserted region of Trastevere. Exactly opposite to it,
in the long, wide, aud grass-grown street of the Lungara,
stands the Eamesina, a melancholy Casino, which was origi-
nally built for the scene of a grand entertainment, given by
a rich Soman banker to Leo X. But it now, imforhmately,
belongs to the Boyal EamiLy of Naples ; and on its damp
walls the frescos oi Eaphael are shut up, and left to moulder
in decay.
The first hall was painted by his pupils, but the designs
are Baphaers.
These represent the story of Cupid and Psyche ; and the
whole of that beauti^ fable from first to last — ^from the
dawn of passion, through the wrath and machinations of
Venus, — ^uie consent at last accorded by Jupiter to the sup-
plications of the enamoured god for tne union, the return
of Psyche, conducted by Mercury, from her banishment in
hell, to the highest heaven, and her presentation with the
cup of immortality — till the nuptials are crowned with the
banquet of the Gbds, and followed by the triumphs of the
Loves, — all is told here. It is a complete poem ; and I
do not hesitate to say, that the beauty, the fmcy, the
poetic spirit of this wonderful composition, have never been
eq[uallea. The red tints of Giulio Bomano prevail in the
colouring, and prove that he had the chief share in the exe-
cution. Baphael himself retouched most parts of it ; and
the figure of one of the Graces, whose beautifrd shoulders
and back are turned to us, bears evident marks of his pen-
cil; and it is said, he finished it with great care, ana es-
teemed it one of his happiest paintings.
It is said that Carlo Maratti 4id not retouch these figures,
when he threw behind them the deep blue ground, which
certainly injures their fine effect. However this may be,
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THS VAKlrSBIirA. i4ti
the Galatea in tHe next room remains exactly as it was left
hj the hand of Eaphael. He not only designed, but exe-
cuted it ; and faded as is its colouring, that mind must be
dead to the highest beauties of paintmg, that can contem-
plate it mthout admiration. The spirit and beautjr of the
composition, the pure and perfect design, the flowmg out-
line, the soft and gracefdl contours, and the sentiment and
sweetness of the expression, all remain imchanged ; for time,
till it totaUy obliterates, has no power to injure them.
The Groddess, standing on her shell, is borne through the
waves hj two dolphins. Her form, her attitude, and ex-
pression, surpass all that your fancy can paint. The figures
of the attendant Nereid, and of the triumphant Triton who
embraces her, are beautiful beyond description.
The first of ancient sculptors would have seized the beau-
tiful design and expression of tbese figures, and transmitted
them in their works, for the admiration of all succeeding
IBHilly to understand the perfection of the desi^, you
should conceive what a beautiful bas-relief or gem it would
make.
You are shown a gigantic black bead on the wall, whicb,
it is said, Michael £igelo drew one day while he was wait-
ing bere for Daniel da Yolterra, in derision of the littleness
of Haphael's design. This is extremely possible, for he
had not the power to portray, nor perhaps to feel, the charm
of grace and beauty, or the tenderness of expression. He
could not move the gentler feelings of the soul. The bold,
the colossal, the terrible, and the sublime, were his ; but
feminine softness and sentiment, and gentleness and ele-
sance, were unknown to him. These Eaphael possessed ;
but not to these was he confined; for he had elevation,
grandeur, dignity, and true sublimity.
Tl^ere are frescos by Daniel da Volterra, and by Balthazar
PeruJzzi, in this room ; but I dare not give any account of
them, for, to confess the truth, though I have returned
to the Eamesina times without number, and always with
a sincere intention to examine them, I have never yet been
able to bestow my attention, except for a transient glance,
'upon anything but the Galatea of Baphael. '
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141 soia.
Thx Fasitesx FaXiAOe.
One little inan, the Neapolitaii ambassador, inliabits the
whole immensitjr of the Famese Palace. It would have
been impossible to have admired a building, however beau-
tiful, formed out of the overthrown grandeur of the Coloa-
seum; and luckily, although the architecture of Michael
Angelo, there is nothing to admire. Indeed, it is some
gratification to see that it is quite as uglj as could be
desired. ^
Its proprietors, the kings of Staples, have carried to their
kingdom all the ancient sculpture which formerlv adorned
it ; but there is the sarcophagus of Cecilia Metella in the
court, and some fine marble statues in an outhouse; and
there is what they could not take away, the fistr-famed gallery,
painted in fresco by Annibale Garacd, and for which, after
eight years of imremitted labour, that great artist was re-
wardea by the munificence of Cardinal Pamese, with five
hundred crowns !
No one can form a just idea of the powers of Annibale
Garacci, without seeing these astonishing frescos ; which are
in themselves a school of painting.
The first time I ever saw this gallery, was at a ball given
by the ambassador, soon after I came to Eome. The g^ery
was brilliantly lighted up, and my attention was frequently
drawn from the beauty of the mortals below to the oeauiy
of the immortals above. Nor were the quadrilles we were
dancing on the floor at all to compare to the sj^irit of the
gracefm measures the Bacchantes were performing on the
ceiling.
It is adorned with the Triumph of Bacchus and Ariadne,
drawn in their golden cars by tigers, and surrounded by a
train of Satyrs, Fauns, and Bacchantes, led on by old
Silenus. Classic fable forms the subject of every picture;
and their numbers, variety, and beauty, are astonishing.
The Triumph of Galatea, and Aiux>ra carrying off her beloved
Cephalus in her car, are by Agostino Caracci, whose culti-
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VALAZZO VABirXBI. 148
Tated mind, and poetic imagination, are said to have mate-
liallj assisted his Drother in the composition of the whole.
It is, I believe, a mistake, that their master, Ludoyico
Caracci, had any share in it, for he never was at Borne,
excepting for a few weeks, during the whole time it was
painting. The Persons and An^omeda, and the Njmph
and Umcom, are said to be painted hj Domenichino ftom
Annibale Caracci's designs.
I will spare yon all further description of these admirable
frescos; but I cannot recal them to my memory without
delight. I have spent hours in this gallery, and never left
it without increased admiration for them.
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144 • BOMS.
LBTTBE LXVni.
QuiBiKAL Faulce — Palazzo AuiAm — ^Palazzo Pohia-
TOWSEI — GbMS— StaIBCASB or THE PaIiAZZO BirSPOLI
— The Nozze AiiBOBBAiTDnin — Colossal ForaEB at
Palazzo Altibea — Palazzo Stoppani — Eaphabl's
House — Gurpo's Airo Gueboiko's Auboba — Villa
LuDOYisi, ADD Palazzo Eospioliosi.
That palace-building, ruin-destroying Pope, Paul III.,
besan to erect the enormous palace on the Quirinal Kill ;
and the prolongation of his labours, by a long series of suc-
cessive pontiffs, has made it one of tne largest and ugliest
buildings extant. a
The French, during whose reign it was of course the
Palazzo Impenale, new-furnished a part of it ; and another
part of it, m the expectation of the threatened yisit of the
Emperor of Austria, was fitted up for that great personage's
reception, under the special direction of Cardinal Gk)nsaLvo
himself.
I cannot describe silk hangings and rich carpets, neither
shall I stop to criticise the Secretary of State's taste as an
upholsterer. Our object was to see the paintings; but I
was edified to observe in one of the rooms, the consideration
of the minister, in providing for his Imperial Majesty's re-
creation, several suitable diversions. There was a solitaire
board, and a little table to play at '* fox and geese."
As for the paintings, luckily for you there are not many
food ones, and of these I shall mention few. Guercino's
aul and David — or the Madness of Saul, as I believe it is
called — ^is designed with great force and truth ; the colour-
ing beautiful, and the expression powerM. It is one of bis
finest works.
Caravag^o's Christ disputing with the Doctors, merits
similar praise.
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QriSnTAL VALAOI. 145
The sketch of the Transfiguration is very fine. But the
striking inferiority in the figure of our Saviour, leads me
to doubt that it is, as is said, the original sketch by Baphael
himself. I should rather thmk it a dimmished copy by one
of his pupils.
Domenichino's Ecce Homo is painfully fine. One of the
persecuting Israelites is mocking the suffering Christ, whose
brows, crowned with thorns, eyes filled with tears, cheeks
stained with drops of blood, and hands bound with cords,
are sorrowful to behold.
St. Peter and St. Paul, by Fra' Bartolomeo, are ccmceived
in true grandeur of style. St. Jerome, by Spagnoletto, a
subject repeated so often that the sight and sound become
at last disgusting, is one of the very best of the few good
ones I have seen.
There are some paintings by Carlo Maratti, which I was
told to admire ; but I could not. The same thing happened
when I went to see a painting in the church of S. Carlo al
Corso, which is reputed to be his masterpiece. In aU his
works there is, to me, wondrous insipidity. I never yet
saw one that I had any wish to see a^ain.
In a small chapel the altar-piece of the Annunciation, by
Guide, is full of beautiful expression, but the drawing is
incorrect ; and the Virgin's blue mantle breaks all harmony,
a charm one rarely misses in his paintings. In the fresco
there are some beautiM little cherubs; and the angels in
the dome, faded though they be, are still divine; particu-
larly one angel, who is playing on some kind of heavenly
instrument, her face raised to heaven, with that beautiful
look of more than earthly expression that G-uido alone could
give, and a beam of light illumining her countenance.
This chapel is, or rather was, entirely painted by Guide, —
for it is about time to speak of these aeparted frescos in the
past tense, as they are little better than ghosts now — and
there are also some green saints on gold ^unds, by Albani,
of the merit of widen I say nothing ; for if an angel were to
come down from heaven to paint green figures on gold
grounds, I am certain I could not admire the performance.
In one of the rooms, there is the plaster of the beautiful
ftieze in baa-reUef, of the Triumph of Alexander the Great,
TOL. u. I*
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146 BOHX.
modelled for Napoleon^ bj Thorwaldsen, the first sculptor in
relievOy of modem times/ It will never now be executed in
marble for the Quirinal Falaoe ; but it is to be hoped that
the patronage of some other protector of the arts will enable
the artist to perpetuate this grand work.
The gardens oiP the Quirinal Palace are adorned with par-
terres, planted, not with flowers, but with the Pope's armB
and initials, and other pretty devices, formed of httle white
shells or stones; besides which, there are trees cut into
divers shapes; melancholy Casinos, and absurd giuochi
tPac^ua.
Palazzo Albajsti.
In one of the deserted rooms of the Palazzo Albani,
near the Quattro Fontane, there is an ancient painting
of Jupiter and Ghmymede, in a very uncommon style, —
uniting considerable grandeur of conception, great force and
decision, and a deep tone of colouring, which produce great
efiect. It is said to be Grecian.
Among the paintings, most of which are worth nothing,
there are two Bacchanalian Feasts, by Qiulio Eomano,
sketched with great spirit; and a wild coarse landscape of
Salvator Eosa's ; a Holy Pamily by Albani ; aiiother repe-
tition of EaphaeFs Holy Pamily at Lord StaJSbrd's and the
Doria Palace, purporting also to be an original, but pro-
bably a copy by one of his pupils; and two paintings by
Pietro Perugino, one of which, a very fine specimen of his
works, is composed of four parts, the Nativity in the middle,
the Annimdation on each side, and the Crucifixion at the
top.
In the court there are some Pagan altars and inscrip-
tions; a fine old mask, and an unknown statue in consular
robes.
In the Palazzo Poniatowski, in the Via della Croce, there
are some good paintings, chiefly of the Memish School. But
the charm of tnis pamce was, to me, the finest cabinet of
gems I had ever aeei^ which, on the first day of our acquain-
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BO8FIGIIO0I PALAOI. 147
anee with him, Frinee PoniAtowski had the politeness spoil-
taaeoiisly to offer to show to us, though thej are rerj rarely
exhibited to stmngers.
In the Palazzo EospoH, on the Corso, the ground-floor of
which has been turned into an immense cai6, there is a much
admired staircase.
On the staircase of the Palazzo Altieri, there is an ancient
marble colossal fifger^ of such extraordinary size, that it is
really worth a visit. In the Palazzo Verospi, I hear there is
a fresco by Albani, which I haye not yet seen; and the
Palazzo Stoppani, the Palazzo Gaffiffelli, and the stables of
the Palazzo Ghhigi, are of the architecture of Sophael, and
therefore interesting. Still more so is Baphaers house,
built by himself, xou pass it on the right-hand side, in
going to St. Peter's, very near the Piazza Yaticano, in the
widest of the two streets that lead from the castle St. Angelo.
It may easily be known, by being the only house in that
neighbourhood with a stone front, or with anything like
architectural ornament about it.
Before building it, he lived in the Via de' Coronari, in a
house, No. 124, which is marked by a washed-out painting
on the outside, intended for the portrait of Saphael, and
painted by Carlo Maratti.
PiXAZKO BOSFI0LIOS1.
On the roof of the summer-house of the Palazzo Bospig-
liosi, is painted the celebrated fresco of Ghiido's Aurora.
Its colouring is clear, harmonious, airy, brilliant — ^un&ded
by time; and the enthusiastic admirer of Guide's genius
may be permitted to hope, that this, his noblest work, will
be immortal as his fame.
Morghen's fine en^vinff may give you some idea of the
design and composition of this l]^utiM painting; but it
cannot convey the soft harmony of the tints, the living
touches, the brilliant forms, i^e realized dream of the imagi-
nation, that bursts, with all its magic, upon your enraptured
flight in the matchtess originaL It is enuKKhed poetry. The
L 2
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148 BOHX.
Hours, that hand-in-hand encircle the car of FhoBbus, ad-
Tance with rapid pace. The paler, milder forms of those
gentle sisters who rule over declining day, and the glowing
glance of those who bask in the meridian blaze, resplendent
in the hues of heaven, — are of no mortal grace and beauty ;
but they are eclipsed by Aurora herself, who sails on the
golden clouds before them, shedding ' showers of shadowing
roses ' on the rejoicing earth ; her celestial presence diffiising
gladness, and Hght, and beauty around. Above the heads of
the heavenly coursers, hovers the morning star, in the form
of a youthful cherub, bearing his flaming torch. Nothing is
more admirable in this beautiful composition, than the monon
given to the whole. The smooth and rapid step of the cir-
cling Hours as they tread on the fleecy clouds ; the fiery-
steeds ; the whirling wheels of the car ; the torch of Lucifer,
blown back by the velocity of his advance ; and the form of
Aurora, borne through the ambient air, till you almost fear
she should float from your sight; aU realize the illusion.
You seem admitted into the world of fancy, and revel in its
brightest creations.
In the midst of such youth and loveliness, the dusky figure
of Phoebus appears to great disadvantage. It is not happily
conceived, xet his air is noble and godlike, and his tree
commandiQg action, and conscious ease, as he carelessly
guides, with one hand, the fiery steeds that are harnessed
to his flaming car, may, perhaps, compensate in some degree,
for his want of beauty ; for he certainly is not handsome ;
and I looked in vain for the youthful majesty of the god of
day, and thought on the Apollo Belvedere. Had &uido
thought of it too, he never could have made this head, which
is, I think, the great and only defect of this exquisite paint-
ing ; and what makes it of more importance, is, that Apollo,
not Aurora, is the principal figure — ^the first that catches the
eye, and which, in spite of our dissatisfaction, we are to the
last obliged to contemplate. The defects of his Apollo are
a new proof of what I have verv frequently observed, that
Ouido succeeded far better in feminme than in masculine
beauty. His female forms, in their loveliness, their delicacy,
their grace and sweetness, are flsiultless ; and the beauty and
innocence of his infimts have seldom been equalled ; but he
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TILU ZVDOJJML 140
nrel J gave to manly beauty and Tigonr, a charaetor that
was noble.*
From the Aurora of Guido, we nrnat turn to the rival
Aurora of Guercino, in the Yilk Ludoyifli. In spite of
Guido's bad head of Apollo, and in spite of Guercino's magio
chiar' oscuro, I confess myself disposed to giye the preference
to Guido. In the first place, there is not the same unity of
composition in Guercino's. It is yeiy fine in all its parts ;
but still it if in parts. It is not so fine a tehole, nor is it so
nerfect a composition, nor has it the same charm aa Ghiido's.
Neither is tbere the same ideal beauty in tbe Aurora. Guer-
dno's is a mortal — Guide's a truly ethereal being. Guercino's
Aurora is in her car, drawn by two heayenly steeds, and the
shades of night seem to dissipate at her approach. Old Ti-
tbonus, whom she has left behmd her, seems lialf awake ; and
the morning star, under tbe figure of a wineed genius bearing
his kindled torch, follows her course. £l a separate com-
partment, Nigbt, in the form of a woman, is Bitting musing, or
slumbering oyer a book. She has much of the character of a
sibyl. Her dark cave is broken open, and the blue sky and
the coming light break beautifull]^^ m upon ber and her com-
panions, the sullen owl and flapping bat, which shrink from
its unwelcome ray. The Hours are represented imder the
figure of children, fluttering about before the goddess, and ez-
tiuguiahing the stars of night — a beautiful idea; but one,
perhaps, better adapted to poelay than painting. The Hours
of Guercino are, howeyer, mfinitely less poetic and less beau-
tiful than the bright female forms which encircle the car of
day, in Guide's Aurora. Yet it is a masterpiece of painting;
and but for the Aurora of Guido, we could haye conceiyed no-
thing beyond the Aurora of Guercino.
In another room, in the same Casino, I was struck witb
* Domenichino, however, was, in my opinion, the painter that mort
trnly and beantifully represented the graces of childhood. There is a
chann of nature, of playful, happy, unconscious innocence ahout them,
that gives dreadful effect to the horrors of his Martyrdoms. In his St.
Agnes, and the Mysteries of the Bosaries, at Bologna, (which, after the
Communion of St Jerome, are his great masterpieces of oil painting,)
and in his frescos of S. Andrea and S. Sebastiano, at Rome, I was parti-
cularly struck with this. The Sleeping Babes of Guido are quite a
different description of beauty, but exquisite in their kind.
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150 BOXB.
admiratkni bja pamtm| I had nerer heard of, "Ftaoe blowing
her Trumpet, by Guercino.
The celebrated pieces of aacient statuary, at the Yilla Lu*
doYisi, which are inyaluable because the^aie unique — (no
other copies of them existing) — are all distinguished by names
that have as usual been proved with great learning and at
great length, not to belong to them ; and the names that do
belong to them hare not yet been discovered. You must,
therelore, excuse my calling them by their usurped titles.
The first is Mars in repose, a beautiful figure. He is sitting
. with his foot resting on his helmet, his hand grasping a swor^
and a shield by his side. A little Love is seat^ at his feet.
The figure is scarcely robust, fiery, or fierce enough for the
boisterous ^od of war, nor does the expression accord with it.
It is more like a youthful and a humaa warrrior. It has been
called Quirinus ; and it seems to accord better with the son
of Mars, the godlike foimder of Bome, snatched from earth
without tasting of death, than with Mars himself. But be it
what it may, it is a statue of first-rate excellence. It has
been restored by Bernini.
The ^up called Pfetus and Arria, is excuisitely beautiful.
She is sinking in death ; the last breath of me seems to tremble
on her lips, and a faint smile still illumines them. Her form,
the perfection of female beauty and erace, is in the most in-
teresting attitude it could be taken; half-cliuCTig in death to
him who has just plunced the dagger into his own breast:
the blood springs fiom tne wound, and the powerful contrast
between the athletic strength of his form^ — ^that strength
which we know the death that he has inflicted must so speemly
annihilate, — and the expiring figure of the lovely being he
supports, is very striking and impressive. Taking the figures
separately, they are perhaps fiaultless ; but, considered as a
group, it has one fault. In the point of view for the female,
vou lose the male figure altogether, and the reverse. It is,
however, a noble piece of sculpture, whatever it be. It cer-
tainly is not Arria and Psetus, because the female figure has
a frinsed robe, a certain proof that she was of a foreign nation;
and because the man has mustachios, which, at t£ftt period,
were not worn by the Bomans; besides, ^e critics have
lately discovered that they are 2Jkeb(m mititaekiot I But ii^
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TILLA L17D0TISI. ISl
dependent of mustachios, tiie man is too inforiated for PntnSy
who, so £ur from driving the sword into himself in this yenge-
ful maimer, was too cowardly to kill himself at all, and was
actuallj executed. It is evident, too, from the ei^ression of
the work, that he has stabbed idie woman, — ^and mdeed, the
wound is in her right shoulder ; so that if she had committed
suicide, it must have been in a most awkward manner, with
her left hand.
The £Eite of Fsstus and Arria was no subject for statuary;
hut if it had been, the sculptor would have chosen the
moment, when, loolung up to him with expiring love, she
presented the dagger, and murmured, " It is not painful, my
Pffitus!"
She was the heroine of that beautiful story ; but the man
is the hero of this group, — ^the female figure is secondary —
therefore, for all those multifarious reasons, it is not Ajtxia
and FaBtus.
The Thebon mustachios have given rise to the supposition
that this group represents BiBmon and Antigone, a favourite
subject of Greek tn^edy, and often seen upon gems ; but
HsBmon killed himselfupon her tomb, therefore he could not
be represented thus, as dying with her.
Wmkelman iooAgines that it represents the obscure story
of Canace, and that the man is the soldier sent to her by her
father, .^lus, on the discovery of her gmlt, with the poniard,
and the command to kill herself. But this is surely a still
more unfortunate idea — ^for what right have we to suppose
that the soldier was foolish enough to kiU himself ?*
The group called Fapirius and his Mother has been, and
will be, the subject of continual dispute amongst the connois-
seurs. Some of them see, in the boy*8 face, the roffuish
mirthful expression of his witty imposition. Winkeunan,
who at first maintained it to be Ph»dra and Hippolytus, read
in this same mirthful countenance, the excess oi horror with
which he heard the avowal of her incestuous passion. After-
* Winkehnan's giatuitoiis supposition of this unreasonable snioide is
tmuang enoiigfa. — " Comme aucun teriyain ne fiut mention au garde,
nous pouvons nautjiffurer, par rinspecHon de Vouvrage, que ce Mddat,
n'syant pas 6t6 ins^t de Tobjet de sa mission, remit d'un air triste
1ft &tale 6p6e H Canac6, ei qu*%l itn eat perei U seitif apris avoir vu gue
luPrinoem^itmiiMiUr AlUMljstMjl
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152 BOMB.
\rard8, he finds it out to be Electra and Orestes; and &ea
the expression of this same *mirthftil,' and *horror-stricken
face,' is changed to extreme affliction ; and according to him,
''On Yoit les jeux d'Oreste inond^s de larmes, et ses pau-
Si^res gonfl^s, a force d'ayoir pleiir6. II en est de mdme
'Electra," &c. It may be so, but I saw none of these ex-
pressions in the poor boy's fiace ; and certainly, they cannot
all be there.
The female is a ^at deal the taller and older of the two,
and the difference m their age seems irreconcileable with that
of brother and sister, though Electra was older than Orestes.
But she has the air of a matron — ^he of a boy ; and her look
and caressing manner would seem to indicate a mother's
feeling. But then, say the critics, " her hair is cut, which
was esteemed infamous among the Bomans ; and, therefore,
she cannot be the mother of Papirius." Besides, had the boy
been Papirius FrcstextatuSy he would haye been represented
with the pratexta ; for, it was on the occasion of being in-
vested with that juvenile robe, that he was taken by his fiithep
to the senate ; and, on his return, he eluded the interroga-
tories of his mother as to what had passed there, with the tde,
that they had been deliberating whether the men should have
two wives, or the women two husbands — ^which sent her, with
all her female Mends and acquaintance, in a body, next day,
to the senate, to implore that the law should be for the
women to have two husbands — ^to the iuexpressible amuse-
ment of the conscript fathers.
There is another reason why this group cannot represent
Papirius and his mother, nor the other, Psetus and Arria,
because the ancient sculptors never chose a subject from
Boman history.* But it is much easier to prove what it is
not, than what it is: we may be content to confess that we
know nothing about it; and to call it, for want of a better
name, Electra recognizing Orestes.
It is, however, certain that it is a group of singular beauty,
and the work of Menelaus, a Gfxecian sculptor, whose name
is inscribed upon it.
We saw the statues and paintings of the ViQa Ludovisi
only once, and in haste ; and we were indebted to the kind-
* Vide Winkelman, Hist de I'Art, liv. vi., chap. 6, § 28.
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TIIXA XTTDOYIBI. 158
•
nefls of Canora, ytho conducted ns there, for seeing them at
all. But this privilege is now denied even to him ; and the
most respectful re<]|ue8ts of the most distinguished foTeigners,
for permission to view them, are treated by Prince Piombino
with contemptuous neglect, or answered with haughty refusal.
It is not that strangers can intrude upon him, for he resides
constantly at Bome. Yet such is his dread lest they should
obtain admittance by bribery to see them, that he has been
known, on a wet day, to walk under an umbrella, through
miry lanes, and watch within sight of the gate — a spy upon
his own servaats. What would this Ir^rrant have been upon
a throne ! The only excuse that can be alleged for hitn is,
that he is supposed to be mad ; but it is tmiortunate when
Buch a madman, instead of being locked up himself, has it in
his power to lock up such works of art.
The Villa Ladovisi stands in one of the most beautiful
situations in the neighbourhood of Bome, for, though enclosed
within the walls of the city, it is completely in the country.
The view from the top of the Belvedere Casino is one of the
most varied beauty. The blue mountains rising behind the
dark shade of the pines and cypress, which form the fore-
ground ^but I forget that I must not describe. I see you
yawn already.
These pines and cypress are ever green and ever beau-
tiful ; — ^but in all directions of right lines and angles, ex-
tend tall hedges of ilex and laurel, clipped into green walls,
impenetrably thick, and inconceivably dull. With two miles
of pleasure-ground, close to a capital city, on such a soil,
and beneath such a sky, what would an English viUa and
its gardens have been ? But gardening, which iq our coun-
try is the art of creating lanctcape, is, in Italy, the art of
marring it.
In my enthusiasm for the Aurora of Guido, I forgot to
mention the paintings of the Bospigliosi Palace.
Tou are taken, reluctantly, from the contemplation of
the Aurora, iato an adjoining room in the same Casino,
to see Domenichino's Adam and Eve in Paradise — a very
poor production indeed. The whole of an immense piece
of canvas is crowded with a heterogeneous assemblage of
qH the birds of the air and beasts of the field, and reptiles
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154 BOHX.
thafc ever crawled upon the earth; and in the middle of
them stand our first parents, in a most unenyiable situa-
tion. 1%
Some bad bronze heads, and other wretched scraps of
sculpture, and a Diana and Minerva, more frightful than
any thing you can conceive, are stuck round the room.
Thej were found in the baths of Constantine, upon a part
of which this palace was built. Here is a pretty httle
bronze horse, also found in them — ^the work, probably, of
a better age. The beautiful bas-reliefs which adorn the
exterior of the Casino, and are unmercifully exposed to
all the injuries of the weather, are of the age oi Trajan ;
and the larger ones are said to have been brought nrom
his Eonim. They are placed at such a hight from l^e
ground, that the beauty of the sculpture is lost.
Two magnificent colunms of rosso-antico, the only ones
of this size in the world, are judicioushf wedged into the
wall of the Casino, and so totally hidden in it, that they
would pass unobserved were they not pointed out. If ther
were made of painted stucco, they woiud look quite as wel!!^
in such a situation, as this precious marble — for the beauty
of the material is totally lost.
The palace itself contains a scanty collection of paint-
ings-^generally {passed over in haste, — ^for what stranger
can view them with patience, before he sees the Aurora 8
and after it, how can he admire them ? Among them, how«
ever, are some paintings of considerable merit.
Guide's Andromeda is one of these. It is seldom Guido
erred from want of expression, but she is surely too cahn»
and too placid for such a situation. Neither Perseus wing*
ing his flight to her rescue, nor the sea-monster raising its
jaws to devour her, seems to have the power to agitate her
with hope or fear. But she is beauty's self; and it is a
painting that irresistibly forces admiration,
Domenichinos Triumph of David, is not, on the whole,
one of his finest compositions. The figures are larger thfui
nature. One of the daughters of Israel, who welcomes him
with the harp and the timbrel, has all the living brightness^
and beautiful expression, of his pencil.
Sa2QS(ni pulling down the temple on the Fhili$tineS| bj
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Aironm nuEBOOs. 155
Ludoyico Garacci, is eztremelj admired ; but tbe subject is,
I think, a peculiarly unfortunate one for painting. The
gigantic columns, and tumbling roofs, yielding to tne force
of a single man of human size, has somethio^ in it of re-
Toltrufi; impossibility and disproportion.
Eighteen ancient firescos, found in the baths of Gonstan*
tine, once adorned this palace. They belonged to the
Prince Pallavicini, the owner of the second story of this
palace. But the servants here say, that the Frmee Bos-
pigliosi carried them off with him to Florence, where he
now resides ; and his servants there maintained they were
at Borne. They are not now to be seen or beard oi any-
where.
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160 ^ BOMS.
LETTEE LXIX.
BoHjjT Villas — Bafhael's Casino, aitd Fbesgos —
BoBGHESE Qaedens — ^Italiabt aitd Enolish Gakden-
TSQ — ^Villas ALDOBHANDiifi, Altiebi, Gieaud, Pam-
EILI-DOBIA, AND LaNTI — FbENCH AoADEMT — UTILITY
OF AN English one — Visit to Monte Mabio — ^Villa.
Madama — Pastob Fldo — Baphael*s Ebesgos.
Singe I baye been in Eome, many are the visits I have
paid to the Casino of Eaphael, which was the chosen scene
of his retirement, and adorned by his genius, It is about
half a mile from the Porta del Popolo. The first wooden
gate in the lane, on the right of the entrance into the
grounds of the Villa Borghese, leads you into a vineyard,
which you cross to the Casino di Eaffaello ; for it still bears
his name. It is unftimished, except with casks of wine,
and uniohabited, except by a contctdina, who shows it to
strangers.
"We passed through two rooms, painted by his scholars ;
the third, which was his bedroom, is entirely adorned with
the work of his own hands. It is a smalL pleasant apart-
ment, looking out on a little green lawn, fenced in with
trees irregularly planted. The walls are covered with ara-
besques, in various whimsical and beautiful designs, — such
as ike sports of children; Loves bakncing themselves on
poles, or mounted on horseback, full of glee and mirth;
Eauns and Satyrs ; Mercury and Minerva ; flowers and
curling tendrils, and every beautiful comnosition that could
suggest itself to a mind of taste, or a classic imagination,
in its most sportive mood. It is impossible to describe to
you the spirit of these designs. The cornice is supported
by painted Caryatides. The coved roof is adorned with
four medallions, containing portraits of his mistress, the
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TILLAS or MOBSBK BOHI. 157
Fomarma — ^it seemed as if lie took pleasure in multiply-
ing that beloved object, so that wheiever his ejes tumedy
her image might meet them. There are three other paint-
ings, one representing a Terminus with a target before it,
and a troop of men shooting at it with bows and arrows,
which they have stolen from unsuspecting Cupid, who is
lying asleep on the ground, his quiver empty beside him.
One or two roguish-looking Loves are creeping about on the
ground, one of them beanng a lighted torch. The marks-
men are all bending forward, and some are quite horizontal,
with their feet in air.
The second picture represents a figure, apparently a God,
seated at the foot ot a couch, with an altar oefore him, in a
temple or rotunda ; and from gardens which appear in per-
spective through its open intercolumniations, are seen ad-
vancing a troop of gay young nymphs, with something of
the air of Bacchantes, bearing on their heads vases lull
of fresh-gathered roses. I could not make out the image to
he a female, or else I should have supposed it to be the feast
of Mora ; therefore, for want of a better explanation, I con-
cluded it meant for the feast of the God of the Gardens.
The last, and best of these paintings, represents the nup-
tials of Alexander the Great and Eoxana. I never saw a
fig^ure of more ex<juisite loveliness, — more touching modesty
and grace. She is seated at the foot of a couch ; a little
Love beside her is drawing off a veil which yet half conceals
her beauty. Hymen, with his safiron robes and torch, leads
in Alexander, (usarmed, but wearing his helmet. A crowd
of attendant Loves are employed in their service; some
are carrying off his sword, &c. ; and one, a comical little
Love, has put on his heavy coat-of-mail, which is ridiculous-
ly large for it, and having tumbled down, is unable to get
up again.
I have perhaps described with too much minuteness the
Casino of Eaphael ; but in general he painted for others, —
here he painted for himself, — ^and it is interesting to see
those sports of his mind, and to trace the fond delight with
which he amused his leisure hours in decorating his home,
the scene of his pleasures.
Julius Cffisar bequeathed his gardens, at his death, to the
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168 BOia.
Bomaat people ; the Bortthese prinoefl do more,— tbey giTO
tbem in their lives; and the only difference I can see ia
their title to them, and that of every d^iizen of Bome^
is, that the former have the en>enae of keeping them up,
and the latter the enjovment oi them. The citizen enters
when he pleases, — on KK>t, on horsehack, or in a carriage ;
and he is, to all intents and purposes, their uncontrolled
master.
A park would be a more appropriate term in English,
than gardens, for grounds that occupy nearly three miles
in circuit. They are situated on the broad summit of
the FinciBn Hill, immediately without the walls of Borne,
which endose a part only of its wide and broken extent.
The Borghese Gardens are professedly laid out in the Eng-
lish s^le ; and though they certainly are not English, they
are — ^from being devoid of trees cupped into shapes, and
lone straight avenues enclosed between evergreen walk-*
by far the most beautiful pleasure-grounds ia Bome. I was
too much rejoiced to see once more the unmutilated, un-
tortured shades of nature, though ungrouped and unem*
bellished by the hand of taste, to quarrel with the melan*
choly monotony of the scene, — ^with the formality of the
sta^poant pond, in which is erected the Temple of JSscu-
lapius, — the woe-begone Nereids, that are obliged to "sit
on rocks, and muse o'er flood and fell," — ^the modem ruins
that are tumbling about like bad actors, vainly trying to be
tragical,— or the mock aqueducts that have been built up
only that they might be pulled down.
There is one of the fine arts which is truly of BritisK
growth, and in which, by the unanimous voice of Europe, we
excel all other nations — ^the art of gardening. We have
attained our perfection in it by the only means m which per-
fection in any of the fine arts is attainable, — following simpli-
city, and obeying nature. This is the golden rule of taste.
These are the omy guides to beauty. But those who have
sought it in distorting the lovely features of nature, and
substituting the paltry conceits of affectation for beautiful
simplicity, nave wandered far from their aim. Such have
been the means of o\ir success ; its remoter causes I cannot
but attribute to that fondness for domestic enjoyment which
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HODEKir TILLA8 OF SOME. 109
leads us to embellish evetytWng that sunxmnds our home, or
that can add to its pleasives. Our oountry-houses, as well
as gardens, are confessedlj uuriyalled ; they are the admira-
tion of all enhghtened foreigners, and their superioiily arises
from being contrived, not liJce those of other nations, for the
wonder of visitors, but for the happiness of their inmates, —
not for show, but for enjoyment. Xong, oh, long may it be
the boast of England, that while other Lands can show more
splendid palaces, hers are filled with happier homes !
It is indeed striking to a native of our winlay island, on
coming to a climate inmere unbidden beauty springs around,
and scarcely asks the hand of cultivation, to see, instead of
smiling shnibberies, varying walks, scented flowers, budding
blossoms, and all the beautSul combinations of English taste,
— ^nothing but clipt evergreens, formal hedgerows, doleful
fish-ponds, spirting fountains, and frightful statues. With
the sun and the soil of Italy, what a paradise could be created
by English gardening I
It does not appear to me that the ancient £omans had a
much better taste in gardening than the modem Italians.
Pliny, in his laboured description of his Tusculan villa, tells
us its gardens were adorned with "figures of various animals,
cut in box; evergreens shaped into a thousand difierent
forms; sometimes into letters expressing different names;
walls and hedges of clipped box ; and trees cut into a variety
of shapes ;" so what we abuse as Dutch, is really classical.
IS'othing, however, can make it otherwise than hideous ; and,
be it the praise of our own nation to have introduced true
taste, and invented the art of landscape-gardening.
The drive through the grounds of the Villa Sorghese is
Tery pleasant ; the road winds alon£ through deep evergreen
groves of the ilex, the laurel, and the cypress, whose taU
spiral form rises far above every other tree, and contrasts
beautifrdl^ with the pale and drooping weeping-willows that
bathe their flexile branches in the dear waters. But the
columnar cypress itself scarcely overtops the majestic pine,*
which bears on high its broad horizontal head, and throws
around its deep and spreading shade. This beautiful tree,
which 'grows to such perfection in the climates of the souths
* Th« Fmw pinea of Liiui»ii8.
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160 BOifS.
gives to the scenery about Borne its peculiar charm. It has
a character that no other possesses ; and nothing can be more
in harmony with the melancholy grandeur of the ruingf it
loves to accompany, than its dark and motionless beauty, and
its luxuriant depth of shade. It is the same which enters so
beautifully into the composition of Claude Lorraiue's land-
scapes. Such scenery as the Borghese Q-ardens should never
be visited except when the sun sbines forth unclouded ; then
the contrast between the brightness of its rays, the deep blue
of the heavens, and the thick shade of the groves, is seen in
all its beauty.
The Casino, at the extremity of the drive, is well worth
seeiag ; not for anything it contains, for its famous treasures
of art are all gone, but lor its own magnificence. The splen-
dour of its marbles, and the beauty of its halls, are unim-
pabed. Instead of its masterpieces of G^recian sculpture, we
, see now a Curtius on horseback, throwing himself into the
gulf; and two groups of Bernini, a scowling David with his
sling, and Apollo ana Daphne, who is in the act of undergo-
ing the process of her transformation into a laurel. Amongst
some pamtings of Luca Giordano and Orizonte, I remarked
two beautiful winter landscapes by a painter not known to
flame, and whose name I have imluckily forgotten.
There are a great many villas in the immediate neighbour-
hood of Eome, and even within its walls ; but I cannot con-
ceive that a particular description of them all could be
amusing to you. Every villa has one Casino, and often
more, in its grounds. Wt, perhaps, you may not have a
very clear idea of what a Casmo is. It is a building, gene-
rally two stories high, and containing a suite of entertaming
rooms, for company and recreation, but no sleeping-rooms ;
and they are usually fitted up with aU the luxuiy of p£tinting
and sculpture.
The V ilia Aldobrandini is now in the possession of GFeneral
MioUis. The gardens are gay and pleasant, and kept in ex-
cellent order. A considerable number of ancient statues and
inscriptions are arranged in one part of them. There seemed
to be a great multiplication of Bacchuses, Dianas, Mercuries,
Venuses, and the common herd of statues ; but nothing
remarkable, either for rarity or beauty. However, I must
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▲LSOBBAITDIKI YILLA. 161
confess that I only gare them a hasty gkuce, for my whole
soul was in the flower-beds. It was sillj enough, to be sure ;
but there was such a delightful profusion of roses and lilies,
and jonquils and hyacdnths, that when Flora herself with all
her fresn-bom beauties, appeared before me, I could not
think of musty old representations of the rest of the gods
and goddesses ; and I was still regaling my senses with their
sweets, when the rest of the ^ar^ returned from the house, *
where there is a large collection of paintings, and, assuring
me there was not one picture worth seeing, cbagged me away
with them.
In the weed-covered grounds of the Villa Altieri, which
are unconscious of flowers, there are some remains of ancient
buildings, that have occasioned much dispute amon^ the an-
tiquaries, who have never been able to settle whether they
belonged to the Ludus MatiUimu, or place of exercise for
the soldiers — or to public baths that were contiguous to it —
or to the Baths of St. Helena, which might have extended
here — or to fifty other things.
In an excavation that was made here about the end of
the seventeenth century, a chamber was discovered, adorned
with arabesques and landscapes ; and a very large
was saved, which was in the collection of Cardinal ]
and, I believe, was purchased by the late Lord Bristol.
Th& deserted and ruinous Casiao contains nothing except-
ing one very small ancient painting of a man and horse, —
a common sepulchral device. The design is good, but the
colouring feded. Gi^he servants say — ^and they are right-
that it was brought from the Tomb of Ovia ; but Yenuti
asserts that it was found in the ruin in the garden.*
On the deserted field of the Esquiline is the Villa Palom-
bara, where the famous Discobolus of the Palazzo Massimi,
and the more famous Meleager, are said to have been dis-
covered. It once belonged to Queen Christina of Sweden,
who has left upon the little doorway, exactly opposite to the
ruin called the Trophies of Marius, a curious record of her
credulity. It consists of a collection of unintelligible words,
signs, and triangles, given her by some alchymist, as the rule
to make gold, and wMch, no doubt, he had found successful,
• Yenuti, parte L cap. 7.
YOX. n. M
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162.
baying obtained from her, and probably manjr other votaaeni^
abundance of thai pcedoaa metal in exchange for it. But
as she could msake nothing of it, she caused it to be insmbed
here, in case any pasaen^, wiser than herself, should ba
able to de^elope the mystic signs of this gcdden secret.
All these Tilias, and their grounds, are within the walls of
Borne ; so also is the Villa Mattei, on the Coelian Hill, now
*in the possession of the Prince of Peace ;, whose name^ bo
fiunous, or rather so in&mous in history, has fallen into sneh
insignificance, that his Tezr existence would be foigotten,
but for the diurnal rattle of his coach-and-six. One of tho
pleafiures which diversify his retired and monotonous Hfe,
seems to be adorning this villa, which he visits every day.
His improvements, and the possession of an f^^piian
obelise, and the famous head d Seneca, certainly render it
worthy of & visit.
The Villa Giraud in Trastev^re, has (O rare invention !)
a Gasino, built in the shape of a ship of war, which stands
most appropriately and pacifically on ory land!
The Villa Pamnli, on Mount Janiculum, commands from
its summit a most beautiftil prospect ; and has in its gardens
a theatre of fountains, each of which, when set a-going,
performs its part, by spirting out driblets of water ; not to
mention the glory oi tb^ whde, a statue of a Faun, standing
iu a summer-house, with a barrel-organ bid behind it, and
set in motion by water, which grinds music that you are in
duty bound to suppose proceeds fix)m the said marble Faun,
though he is neither smging nor pla3ring, and the flute in
his hand is at arm's4ength from his nu)uth. *
The Villa Lanti, also on Janiculum, is rather better worth
seeing than these:; and it has the rare recommendation of
being clean. It was built by Giulio Eomano, and it con-
tains four rooms, the ceiUngs of which a^e painted, partly by^
himself, and partly by his pupils, in fresco, with some very
pretty arabesques, portraits oi Dante, Petrarch, Tasso, Boc-
caccio, and the Fomarina ; and with two fine compositions
of Clelia swimming over the Tiber, and the discovery of the
Sibyl' 8 books on Mount Janiculum.
The magnificent Villa Medici, almost the only modem
villa on the Pincian Hill, the OaUig. H&rtuUyrum — has been.
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fB£NC]i ACADEHT. 163
QQ&T€^d into, tba IV^ick Acadeo&y, whevei nfc^ the ohsrge of
^eir own Qovemment, a certain number of young Fi^bg^
furtists of promise enjojc the inestimable advantages, of a &w
jreara' stuay at Borne. I think this, institution aa hoQOUi>>
able to that nation, as. the want of it is disgraceful to our own.
The iBiberality, and th^ pitiful penunous spirit our govern-
ment has alwsf a manifested in everything ifelatjve to the
fine arts, form a remarkable contrast to its lavish ex^penditure
in all other respects. The utility of such an academy is toot
obvious to require comment. Taste and ^nius are confined
to no rank.; and^ in general, in all countries) men who have
attained eminence in the arts, have risen from the middle:
and lower classes of society. To such me^^ iiberefere, in oui!
remote island, poverty will, in most instances, be an insuper-
able bar to the prosecuticm of their studies in Italy, without
which^ I do not hesitate to say,^ it is not to be expected thali
they should ever become great artists. Thus^ those who th^
most require such advantages are entirely cut oW iVom th<^n.
But this is an imgrateful subject, and I will npt enlarge
upon it.
To return to the Eoman villas— 'none of which, I thinks
remain to mention, excepting those upon Monte Mario.*
It was a beautiful day in February, when spring already
"purpled all the earth with verdant flowers^" and the blos-
soms of the peach and the nectarine, by the road-side, shed
their -fragrance through the air, that we ascended Mont©
Mario, which Hes about a mile and a half to the north-west of
Home. The ascent is too steep for a carriage, and we dis-
mounted and walked to the top. It is from this hill that th&
inajestjr of the Yatican is seen to most advantage ; and from
hence, if I were a painter, I would draw it. The summit of
Monte Mario is enclosed in the grounds of an old villa, but
is fortunately left unmolested in its native carpet of soft green
turf, which is canopied by ancient evergreens ; and beneath
their dark shade, the proud dome of St. Peter's at its base ;
the windings of the Tiber ; Eome, with the distant mountains
that bound the Campagna, and the soft purple light which
* Monte Mario, a high hill, about a mile and a half to the north of
Itome, is little noticed by classic writers. It is belioTed to have been
auciently the Clivua Cmncc.— Vide Nardini, Roma Antica.
M 2
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164 BOHE.
the skies of Italy shed over the scene, form a most striking
and beautiful picture.
On the other side of the hill, about half-way up, stands the
Villa Madama, which, like every possession or the royal house
of Famese, is in a state of decay that presents a dreary con-
trast to the grandeur of the scale on which it is constructed.
The frescos, deiSiffned by Eaphael and executed by Giulio
Bomano, are momderrng on the mildewed walls of its porticos
an4 saloons ; but these designs are still most beautiful, though
their cotouring is faded, and their spirit gone.
They consist of a series of beautiful little pictures, »Bpre-
senting the sports of Satyrs and Loves ; Juno, attend^ by
her peacocks ; Jupiter and Ghnymede ; and various sulaects
of mythology and fable. The paintings in the portico Jiave
been of first-rate exceUerice ; and I cannot but regret^ that
designs so beautiful should not be engraved before their last
traces disappear for ever. A deep frieze on one of the
deserted chambers, representing angels, flowers, Caryatides,
&c. by G-iuiio Eomano ; and also a mie fresco on a ceiling, by
Giovanni d' tJdine, of Phoebus driving his heavenly steeds,
are in somewhat better preservation.
It was in the ^oves that surrounded the YiQa Madama,
that the Pastor Mdo of Guarini was represented for the first
time, before a brilliant circle of princes and nobles, such as
these scenes will see no more, and Italy itself could not now
produce. Even to the lofty height of Monte Mario, and to
the villas which crown the ancient hiUs of Eome, most part
of which are contained within the walls, the gradually in-
creasing scourge of the Malaria has now spread its baLefril
influence, and broods over their summer beauty, like a lurking
demon of destruction.
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vnxA ALBAiri. 165
LETTEE LXX.
Villa Albaihc.
The magnificent galleries and porticos of the Villa Albani
are filled with the most precious collection of ancient
sculpture that any private cabinet ever contained ; and even
those great public museums which have been accumulated
by the labour of nations and of ages, can scarcely boast any-
more rare and valuable than this still is ; thoughit has been
robbed of many of its choicest treasures.
Its beauty and rarity so strongly excited the cupidity of
the French, that, although private property, they had carried
off upwards of two hundred pieces of sculpture, and had
packed up many more ready for embarkation, when the un-
expected reverses of their Emperor drove the plunderers
beyond the Alps.
The diminisaed fortune of their present proprietor, the
Prince Albani, rendered him unable to incur the heavy ex-
pense of their re-transportation ; and the inimitable ruievo
of Antinous is the only one that has been brought back.
Impoverished as this museum is, so inexhaustible are its
treasures, that I have spent whole mornings in its beautiM
cabinets, and reluctantly left them only with the last light
of day, without feeling that I have yet sufficiently seen it.
Many collections, indeed, are more numerous ; but none are
80 choice. In general, with much that is beautiful, there is
more that is bad ; even the magnificent halls of the Vatican
contain a good deal of very mediocre sculpture ; so also does
the Capitol, the Galleiy of Morence, and that still finer col-
lection, the Studii of Naples. But here there is scarcely a
single piece that is not remarkable either for its rarity or
beauty, and their intrinsic value is only exceeded bv the
taste and elegance with which they are arranged. Volumes
might and have been written upon this museum. It was
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166 3K}KI*
the school of the celebrated Winkelman, and he has left so
complete and critical an account of its sculptures,* that it
would be the height of presumption in me to paiticularize
them ; indeed, I almost feel afraid to speak of them at all^
lest I should be led to dwell too long upon what is so inte-
resting in inspection, and so dull in description.
The viQa, or casino, in which they are placed, by far the
most beautiful building of the kind I have seen at Borne,
possesses a light polished elegance, and a decorated beauty,
which is truly Italian, and accords with the scene, the CU-
Inate, and the statitary.
In the principal portico, which is sustained by forty-four
ftnagnificent columns of various marbles, stands a Ime of
Emperors; rare bassi-relievi are encased in the walls;
'Egyptian Spihinxes rest on the marble pavement, and at the
far extremity appears Juno Lucina, descending from Olympug
to Erebus, bearing her torch ; her drapery blown back by
the wind — her feet in air — (the whole figure being advanced
in front of the lofty pedestal,) and her easy rapid gliding
motion through mid-aiT, are reptesented with so much art,
that the statue actually seems to move. It seems, indeed, to
realize the description of the ancient poets, who compare the
progress of Juno to that velocity with which thought can
traverse distant regions.
The unique statue of Domitian, the only one which has
escaped destruction, was found broken, and buried under-
ground, the limbs, head, and body sundered, and hacked all
over with the furious blows of axes, (the marks of which are
still visible,) proofs of the violence that had been used to
destroy every image of the monster whose crimes had dis-
graced humanity.
Attached to the lower part of the building, are two gal-
leries, chiefly filled with Termine, or Herme8,t of Grecian
• Chiefly in his * Monumenti Inediti,' and also in the * Storia dell*
Arte. ' The reader will find a more than complete eatalogue of them in
the ' Indicazione Antiquaria/ which contains those taken away.
+ It(jan scarcely be necessary to observe, that all the figures of this
description bore originally the bead of Merculy, from which they
derived their generic name. They were very eommoa among the
ancients, and 8ome have supposed that they were even used as posts for
gates and fences, about their pleasarergvounds. To their :mult|pliei1iy
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TSBlCIirAIi TIGURES. 167
tASoBOp|her8 or meka; maay of wbicH are unknown, and
many of very doubtful authenticity. The most interesting I
flaw, were the fine genuine head of Epicurus, the Mercury
wtt^ the douhle inscription, and the very ancient and curious
g^tue of the Priestess of Iws, bearing a sistrum of bronze
and marble pwefericulum ; its fine draroery, of the kind called
Btmscan, is more properly of the early &recian school, and
the head bears a close resemblance to those of the Egina
marbles.
By far the finest statues in the lower part of the building,
are the two exquisitely beautiful Caryatides, representing
Ghrecian Oanephorae, or basket-bearers, carrying tneir offer-
ings to the temple of Venus or Pallas. They were found
on the Appian Way, near the tomb of Cecilia MeteUa, and
must have once adorned some Eoman villa or sepulchre.
According to the inscriptions upon them, they are tne work
of Criton and Nicolaus, Grecian sculptors, who are supposed
to have come to Eome before the death of Julius Caesar.
I must pass over the beautiful ancient copies of the Cupid
bending his bow, and the Faun of Praxiteles; the Irwo
Ptolemies of Egypt, — ^the unique Nemesis, — ^the figure of
Marsyas suspended to a tree, the living victim of the ven-
geance of ApoUo, — the relievo, in rosso antico marble, of
IMogenes in his tub talking to Alexander the Great, —
Dseoalus forming the wings of of Icarus, — and a thousand
other admirable works, — and conduct you to the grand
we owe muny heads <^ the ancients, which would otherwise have been
iiTCCoverably lost. These Termine are nearly of the human height, with
heads only; the rest of the marble unformed, and sloping gradually
down to the base, as if the man had been immured in a marble case up
lo the shoulders. In fact, horrible - incredibly horrible as the tale
may i^eem, this fate was once endured by a human being. An unfortu-
nate, but guilty woman, was walled up alive in this manner by her own
«on, her head only being left at liberty ; and fed with bread and water
for the space of about thirteen months, when she died. The fact is
mentioned in Gingu6ne s * Hist. Littfiraire de I'ltalie;* although I can-
not remember in what part of it. But in many monasteries abroad, and
even in England — for instance, in the crypt of Gloucester Cathedral,
which anciently belonged to the monatsteries - cavities are still shown,
fashioned in the wall, apparently intended to immure a human body,
tLe chest and head only l)eing above the walL Tradition tells of many
victims having Buffered this horrible fate.
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168 BOME.
liliero of Borne TriumpHaat, guarding the prin<^al
entrance.
The pretended statue of Bratus, but more probably of a
Boman actor, and several others here, will not detain you
lon^; but the colossal masks, the ancient paintings, the
curious mosaics, and the rare bassi-rilievi, which decorate
the walls, wiU greatly impede your progress up the stair-
case.
In the oval vestibule at the top, between the two no-
ble columns of giallo antico, appears the celebrated and
beautiful little statue of the Faun. The grand rilievo
represents the Sacrifice of Mithra, an exquisite piece of
sculpture ; and the ancient marble Meze all the minutisB
of the circus races.
A little room is furnished with singularly beautifol ta-
pestry, executed from designs of the Memish School, at
Kome, by one of Cardinal Albani's own servants, who dis-
covered an uncommon talent for the art, and, encouraged
by his master, established a manufactory of it, which has
long since perished.
£1 the most beautiful little apartment (or cabinet, as
it is called) that was ever beheld, are contained some of
the choicest treasures of art. The beauty of the little
bronze statue of the Famese Hercules, the Pallas, the
Diana, the Canopus, the exquisite little Faun with the
Thyrsus, the Diogenes, the Expiation of Hercules, the ala-
baster busts and inimitable bassi-rilievi, are aU surpassed
by the famous Apollo Sawroctonos, which, in the judg-
ment of Winkelman, is the original of Praxiteles, de-
scribed by PHny, and the most beautiful bronze statue
now left in the world.* It was found in a perfect state
upon Mount Aventine, but the trunk of the tree and the
lizard are wanting. These are preserved in an ancient
copy, said to be very inferior, which was in the Borghese
Collection.t
There is a curious little sculpture in emerald plasm,
(plasma di smeraldo,) a sort of green crystallization, (not,
• Winkelman, Hist, de TArt, \iv. vi. chap. 2. v. 47—60.
+ The Borghese Collection was given up by Prince Boi^hese to the
French. The whole, or the greatest part of it, is now in the Louvre.
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MINSBTA AITB AJBTTISOVn. 169
however, according to mineraloffistB, bearing any real af-
finity to the emerald,) said to be the only known speci-
men ia sculpture of thjuB subatanoe.
It is impossible for me to describe to you the richneaa,
delicacy, beauty, and taste, either of this costly cabinet
itself, of the next that follows it, or of the great hall. I
might tell of ceiling painted by Mengs, of floors payed
with pictured mosaics, of walls inlaid with precious ala-
basters of columns and pilasters of polished porphyry and
ancient marbles, of mirrors, of gilding, of mches, and of
gems, without end ; but I could neyer convey to you the
effect to the eye of such magnificence, united with such
taste — of materials so rich, and architecture so beautiful.
In one of the alcoves of this noble hall, stands by far
the finest statue of Jupiter I have ever seen; and the
Other is filled by the finest statue of Minerva in the world,
which is pronounced by Winkelman to be the only monu-
ment now existing at Home, of the sublime style of art
that lasted from the age of Phidias to that of Praxite-
les.* It is in perfect peservation, — afresh as when it
first issued from the sculptor's hands. Nothing can ex-
ceed the majesty of the figure, nor the exquisite grace
of the drapery. There is a peculiarily in the JEgis and
helmet, which has given rise to much learned and tedi-
ous discussion.
I must pass over, unnoticed, the four beautiful bassi
rilievi in this magnificent hall, of Marcus Aurelius, the
Choice of Hercules, Icarus and Dsedalus, and Bellerophon
holding Pegasus — ^though hours may well be spent in ex-
amining them — and conduct you into a Httle sitting-room,
in the marble chimney-piece of which is fixed the far-famed
rilievo of Antinous, crowned with lotus flowers. If the
Minerva be a monument of the * style sublime,' this is
incontestably a specimen of the * beau style' of art, which
began with Praxiteles, and lasted imtil the decline of taste
once more introduced imitation of the Egyptian. The
characteristic of the * beau style' was grace, — -but " Grace,"
* Hist, de TArt, liv. iv. chap. 6. § 28. Besides this Mineira.
Niobe and her Children are the only other sculptures Winkelman
classes as works of this epoch " du style sublime"
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170 BOXX.
811^8 WinkdnnB, '' aa revered bj iihe «BGieDt% was of two
kinds, — 'the one of celestial, the other of human birth,'* —
one, " the companion of the god«» the divine oH^ring of
heaven, addresses itself to the mind rather than the eye,
conceals itself in the inmost recesses of the soul, and re-
veals itself onlf to gifted genius. It wa« this grace which
inspired Phidias."* The second grace, the humble and
earth-bom companion of the other, gives to beauty its
charm, and alone ddgns to. visit the modem masters of
art. But the great masters of the ^ beau stjle' associated
the first grace with the second; — and there can 8urel7
be no better instance of their union, (the Apollo Belve-
dere excepted,) than in this exquisite fragment of sculp-
ture, which, it is no exaggeration to say, we can return
to gaze at for ever with unwearying admiration. It is
supposed to have formed a part oi the Apotheosis of An-
tinous ; the hand, in which the restorer nas now placed
a garland of flowers, seems, frdm its position, to have held
the reins, and the figure to have been placed in a car of
triumph, in which manner the ancients represented the
elevation of their heroes to gods, as commonly as borne
on the wings of the eagle. " As fresh, and as highly-
finished, as if it had just left the studio of the scidptw,
this work, after the Apollo and the Laocoon, is, perhaps,
the most beautiful monument of antiquity which time has
transmitted to U8."t I could not but feel as if it had
been treated with degradation, in being stuck ioto a com-
mon chimney-piece.
I shall conclude by mentioning the famous Thetis, so long
an ornament of this museum, which was carried off by the
French to adorn the Louvre. It was originally discovered
by Cardinal Albani, in making an excavation at the Villa of
Antoninus Pius, at Lanuvium, " but it is assuredly a work of
a date far anterior to that age, and undeniably one of the
most beautiful figures of antiquity." J
From the attitude — an oar in the left hand, resting on a
Triton, and one of the legs a little raised, as if riding on the
prow of a vessel — ^it is conjectured to represent Thetis, though
* Hiflt. de r Art, liv. iv. chap. 6. § 80, 87, Ac.
t Ibid., Uv. ri. chap. 7. § 28. t Ibid. $ 89.
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STATUI OF THETIS, 171
it flivf bie l^e Cmdiftn Wniu, sumaiB&cL the Yentus bf profii-
JMsroufi ftavigatioti. Winkeltnan goes into ecstasies about itw
'* In no feliaid^ statoe," fae exclmms, " scaiKely even in the
Ventis de' Medids, do we see, as in this, /«a fraicheur et
rinnocenoe de la pita tendre jeunesse,^^ &c, and yet this
Bttftne, with all the ** bloom of tender youth,*' had no head!
But he supplies the want with a head like a rose-bud. —
" Upon this beautiM body," he adds, " Vimagmation aime h
placer une tite semblahle a un houton de rose qui commence a
s'epcmouir^'* &c. The bead which the restorer has placed
upon it, is not in the least like a rose-bud; but when a
fine ancient statue has but an indifferent modem head,
which often happens, the best way is to look at it as if it had
none. The raptures, however, into which Winkelman is
thrown by this head, which he sees only in imagination, are
nothing to the transports excited by the body which he
actually beholds; and he hopes "he may be forgiven for
believing, that the poets of Greece alluded to this very
statue, when they spoke of the limbs of Thetis, as the model
of beauty. "The man of genius,'* he proceeds, "at the sight
of this beautiful Nereid, transported beyond the time of
Homer, sees Thetis rising from the bosom of the ocean —
before she was sensible to the love of any mortal — before her
union with Peleus was thought of — before her youthful
charms had kindled the passion of the three gods — before
even the first ship had cut the waves of the ^gean sea ; for
the prow on which she rests her foot, is only an attribute to
make her known."*
He goes on in this way through several pages. What
he did not do well, I cannot hope to do better. Perfection
in art, is, indeed, indescribable. All we can learn from
the most ingenious description by the man of taste and
genius, or the critic of judgment and discernment, is, that
the thing described must be something very pretty. Such
the Thetis certainly is, as all who have seen the original, now
at Paris, or the cast at Eome, must allow.
If I were to enumerate aU the sculptures in the smaller
casinos, porticos, billiard-rooms, caf6, &c., which, however,
are in general inferior to those of the great building, I
• Hist, de r Art, liv.' vii. chap. 7. § 40.
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172 B0M1C.
fihould but vainly try to give you an idea of the treasures of
this museum, — of the beautiful statues I have left wholly
unmentioned, of the curious mosaics, the ancient paintings,
the bronzes, the inscriptions, the marble columns, the vases
the sarcophagi, and the innumerable and inestimable bassi-
rilievi, which adorn this wonderful temple of art. The hours
of pleasure I have spent within it are over. This very day
I have visited it for the last time, and its remembrance is ah
that is left me.*
* I ought to have mentioned, what Winkehnan pronounces to be
one of the six finest bas-reliefs in the world, — ^the Marriage of Peleus
and Thetis; but I grieve to say that, by some nnfortnnate chance, in all
my visits to the Villa Albani, I never saw this remarkable piece of
sculpture, if indeed it still remains there.
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PBESXKTATIOK TO THE FOFE. 178
LETTER LXXI.
The Pope.— Pitts VH.
To-DATwe were presented to the Pope in a summer-house
of the Vatican gardens, where he went to receive ns ; for his
Holiness may not admit a female within the sanctuary of his
palace. 'Now, to my thinking, his stealing in this private
mamier into the garden to meet ladies, according to a pre-
vious assignation, wears a much more equivocal appearance,
and might, indeed, give rise to much scandal.
Five o'clock was the hour fixed for the interview ; and we
had just arrived at the indicated summer-house, which con-
tains two good carpeted drawing-rooms, when, " punctual as
lovers to the moment sworn," the Pope entered, took off his
large round red hat, and, severally bowing to each of us,
passed on into the inner room, whither we were conducted
bj Cardinal • • • and presented. But, alas ! here the
similitude failed — ^the natural order of things was reversed —
for instead of the Pope, like an impassioned lover, dropping
down on his knees to us, it was our business to kneel to
him.
This, however, his holiness, being apprised of our being
^^LutTieramj^ would bv no means allow. Jjistead of his toe, we
kissed his hand, which ceremony being performed, he seated
us beside him, and chatted with us very pleasantly for above
half an hour — ^told us about old times and old stories, and all
he used to do when he was a raaazzo, ^' Like all other old
people," he said, laughrDg good-numouredly, " he thought all
thiDgs were changed for the worse. The very seasons were
chained, opinions were changed, times were changed." —
" TuUo e mutato : jmrna le teste, epoi gU tempi : sopra ttUto
son nrntato io,^* contiuued he, laughing ; and he drew a very
droll picture of what he was when a mischievous little urchin
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174 BQICK
He was polite enougli to choose to think *' it was scarcelj
possible we could be English, though he had heard so — we
spoke Italian so well ; and could hardly believe we had only
been a few months in Italy. He said .he particularly dis-
liked speaking French — he supposed because he spoke it
particularly ill ; but, indeed, he had little reason to like any-
thing French." Seizing upon this opening, we made some
remarks on the occupation of Italy by the French, which
drew from him a most energetic picture of the miseries which
they had brought upon this unhappy land — of the wrongs
th^ had committed, and the curse they had entailed upon it.
" xou see it now,'* he added, '' a chaoiged country, exha^ted
and bleeding un<W the wounds of its enemies. Their rapa-
city, not content with despoiling it of its ornaments, has
robbed it of its prosperity, and of that spirit of iateroal
peace and conci^rd, which no time can restore."
He spoke of Venice, his native state, of its flourishing con-
dition before they seized it-^— of the rapid destruction to which
it has ever since been haafeaning.
I happened to observe, how fortunaJse it was that they had
been compelled to restore all they had plundered from Bome
(meaning works of art). "All!" he exclaimed — "What I
have they restored the blood they have spilt — ^the wealth they
have squandered — ^the morals they have corrupted? Have
they restored the noble families they reduced to beggary —
the sons to the mothers they rendered childless— the hmt-
band to the widow ?'*
When venerable age is roused to the energy and emotioA
we expect only from youth — ^when the quenched eye lightens,
and the hoary locks are shook with the bitter sense of wrongs
and regrets, there is something sacred in its feelings, which
commands our respect and awe.
This burst of feeling over, he spoke of the French with
that mildness of spirit, which is the governing principle of his
truly christian character. " In sorrow more iaian anger** he
seemed to look on the past ; and throughout, that inde-
scribable something far stronger than Words — in the tone,
eye, mind, and gesture, made us feel that it was abhorrence
of injustice, vidence, oppression, and impiety, and not the
sense of pei^onal injury and insult, thail moved the virtuji^us
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PBOTESTAVTICaC AT BOMS. 175
indignation of this venerable old man; whose meekness,
patience, and humility, have through life been his most cha-
racteristic qualities.
We retired with his blessing, and an invitation to return
again, which we are told is, as well as the length of our in-
terview, very rare. Accordingly, we were much flattered.
The honour of having him afl to ourselves — ^for even the
Cardinal retired — ^was, however, I believe, purely accidental.
In general he holds a female levee, and receives all at once.
Everybody is desired to be dressed up to the throat, and to
wear a veil, which is however, almost always thrown back.
Some of our very scrupulous countrywomen have declined
presentation to the Pope, because it goes against their con^
sciences to call him 'vostra Santita.' There are certainly
some people who strain at a gnat and swallow a camel.
I forgot to answer one of your queries. You tell me that
you hear the Pope is a bigot. I can only tell you, in proof
of hi^ liberality, that he permits the English to have regular
public worship, according to the rites and service of our
own heretical church; and that during three successive
winters, we have, had a set of rooms openly hired for the
express purpose. I cannot exactly say that he gave hi»
consent ; for when it was asked, he rather signified that. it.
might be as well to do without it.
If the spirit of Martin Luther could look down, he would
surely rejoice to see his own tenets and doctrines openly
preached in the very city which would have burnt him for
holding tbem.
This toleration of Lutheranism is, however, an unpre-
cedented circumstance; and some of the cardinals are ex-
tremely scandalized with this unhallowed license, and even
pretend ignorance of it. To those to whom I know it is
peculiarly obnoxious, I have a mischievous pleasure in intro-
duc.ng the subject, as if by chance ; for instance, at the con-
versazione on Sunday evenings, complaining of the rooms
haxing been too much crowded in the morning during the
English service, or lamenting that we were likely soon to
lose one of our best clergymen, &c., &c., — or remarking, as
if in compliment, the liberal policy of the court of Borne, in
now. permitting the exercise of our religion, almost as freely
as we allow of theirs.
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176 SOME.
LETTEB liXXIL ,.^
Peooessiok to the Minebva — Palm SnrDAT.' "/
■ Eome ifl foil of pilgrims, who, ^th their stares, liie^
scrips, their cockle-shells, their oil-skin tippets, aaid' iStiiAe
large slouched hats, remind one more of days of joa:« jgf^
tales of romance, than anything one could have expe<sbed^ip
have seen realized in the nineteenth century.
It is also crowded with much less picturesque objedas^^-^
carriages full of bewildered forestieri, driving iabout; a^
se^dng for a' place wherein to lay their heads, vi i^Bdki.
Every hotel and lodging is full, even to overflowing. ii?|Sfh
curious heretics; every church is crowded with i&^i^
Eomans; and every pulpit resounds with the stentoGtei
voice of some fiiar, denouncing, with all the vehemeaicii of
Italian energy and gesticulation, the horrors of hell, and
demonstrating that his congregation are in the fair way
to tumble into that fiery abyss. A preacher has not the
smallest chance of popularity here, who does not fing^ten
his auditors out of their senses. Even iu the open piazzas,
these zealous friars raise their crucifix, and hold forth to the
gaping multitude.
- Frequent processions of penitents, covered with long dark
robes, which pass over the head, and have holes cut for the
eyes, girded round the waist with ropes, preceded by a large
black cross, and bearing skulls, and bones, and begging-
boxes- for the souls in purgatory, are to be seen passmg in
silence along the streets, or gHdmg through the solitude of
the Colosseum, or beneath the Triumphal Arches and ruins
of ancient Eome. A party of these mysterious-looking
figures that I saw yesterday emerging mym the Arch of
Titus, and entering the Colosseum, where they knelt in
silence and in deep prayer upon its once blood-stained, area
before the altars of the Yia Cruds, had a very striking
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PALM BITJnDAT. 177
effect. AH these are foreruimers of the Holy Week, to
which munense multitudes still flock £rom all parts ; though
now, I believe, more from curiosity than pie^, and &r
amusement than penitence. A real penance, however, it
has proved to me ; and if I were to hve in Bome for fiftj
years, I would never ^o through it again; though I am
glad that I have seen it once — ^now that it is over. Before
the Holy Week our sufferings began ; we were disturbed
the very morning after our return from Na^es, with the
information that it was a grand festa — ^the Pesta of the
Annunciation, and that a grand fimzione waa to take place
at the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, preceded by
a still more superb procession — ^and that we must get up
to see it, which we accordingly did; and drove tmx)ugQ
streets Imed with expecting crowds, and windows hung
with crimson and yellow «& draperies, and occupied by
females in their most gorgeous atibire, till we made a stop
near the church, before which the Fope*s horse-guards, in
their splendid Ml-dress uniforms, -were stationed to keep
the ground ; all of whom, both officers and men, wore in
their caps a spri^ of myrtle, aa a sign of rejoicing. After
waiting a short time, the procession appeared, headed by
another detachment of the guards, mounted on prancing
black chargers, who rode forward to dear the way, accom-
panied by such a flourish of trumpets and kettle-drums, that
it looked like an^hing but a peaceable or religious proceed-
ing. This marnal array was followed by a bare-headed
pnest, on a white mule, bearing the Host in a gold cup, at
the sight of which everybody, — ^not excepting our coach-
man, who dropped down on the box, — fell upon their
knees, and we were left alone, heretically sitting in the
open barouche.
The Pope, I understand, used formerly to ride upon the
white mule himself; whether in memory of our Saviour's
entrance into Jerusalem on an ass or no, 1 cannot say ; and
aU the cardinals used to follow him in their magniflcent
robes of state, mounted either on mules or horses ; and as
the Emmentissvm* are, for the most part, not very eminent
* Mminentissimo is the title by wliich a Cardinal is addressed ia
eonversatioxL
VOL. II.
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178 noia.
horsemen, they -^te generallj tied cm, lert they shoiild
tumble off. This eavtaleade must have been a very enter-
taining sight. I understand that Pius VI., who was a very
handsome man, kept up this custom, but the present Pope,
Pius VII., is far too infirm for such an enterprise ; so he
followed the man on the white mule in his state coach ; at
the very sight of which we seemed to have made a jump
back of t^o hundred years at least. It was a huge machine,
composed almost entirely of plate-glass, fixed in a ponderous
Carved and gilded irame, 'through which was distinctly visible
the person of the venerable old Pope, dressed in robes of
white and silver, and incessantly givmg his benediction to
the people, by a twirl of three fingers — ^which is typical of
the Trinity.
On the gilded back of this vehicle, the only part I think
that was n^ made of glass, was a picture of tne Pope in
his chair of state, and the Virgin Mary at Ms feet This
fextraordinary machine was drawn by six black horses, with
Buperb httmess of crimson velvet and gold ; the coachmen,
or rather postilions, were dressed in coats of silver tissue,
with crimson velvet breeches, and full-bottom wigs well
powdered, without hats.
Three coaches, scarcely less antiquely superb, follotred
with the assistant cardinals, and the rest of the train. In
the inside of the church, the usual tiresome ceremonies
went on which take place when the Pope is present. He is
seated on a throne, or chair of state ; the cardinals, in suc-
cession, approach and kiss his hand, retire one step, and
make three bows or nods, one to him in front, one on
the right hand, -and another on the left; which, I am told,
are intended for him, (as the personification of the Father,)
and for the Son, and for the Holy Ghost, on either side of
him ; and all the Cardinals havmg gone through these
motions, and the inferior priests having kissed his toe — ^thjit
is, 'the Cross embroidered on his shoe — high mass begins.
The Pope kneels during the elevation of the Host, prays in
"silence 1)efore the high altar, gets up and sits down, reads
something out of a great booK which they bring to him
with a lighted taper held beside it (which must be eminently
useful in broad daylight) ; and, having gone through many
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PBOCEB8IOK8 OF THE HOLY WSSK. 179
itiof««!xch ceremoiries, finally^ esrids as he^begam, with giving
his %e]iedietaB& with three fingers, ail the way as he goes
•eat.
!Dfirmg aH the time of this high mass, the Tope's military
bund, stationed on the platform in front of the church,
plsy^ so many clamorons murtial airs, that it would hare
'dffeetually put to Bight any ideas of religious solemnity — ^if
•anythere had been.
The Pope, on this day, gives to a certain number of
young women a marriage-portion of fifky crowns, or some-
times more. Such of them as choose to become the spouse
of heaven, carry it 'to a convent, in which case it is always
a IfErger sum. We expected to have seen them walk in
the procession, but it seems the practice has fallen into
Misuse, and they did not appear ; probably because the Pope
used formerly to portion from one to two hundred young
girls ; but now that his finances are reduced, the number
is necessarily more limited. We heard contradictory ac-
counts of the numbers portioned to-day ; the highest state-
ment was between. seventy and eighty.
This exhibition over, we had lu(My no more procesmons
to see tiU Palm Sunday came, which, at half-past eight
o'clock, beheld us seated in the Sistine Chapel, where we
waited a fiill hour before the Pope made his appearance.
At last he entered, attired in a robe of scarlet and gold,
which he wore over his ordinary dress, and took his throne.
The Cardinals, who were at first dressed in under-robes of
a violet-colour, (the mourning for Cafrdinals,) with their
rich antique lace, scarlet trains, and mantles of ermine,
suddenly got quit of these accoutrements, and arrayed
themselves in most splendid vestments, which had the
appearance of being made of carved gold. The tedious
ceremony of each separately kissing the Pope's hand, and
mt^dng their three little bows, being gone through, and
some little chanting and fidgeting s^ut the altar being
got over, two palm branches, of beven or eight feet in
length, were brought to the Pope, who, after raising over
them a cloud of incense, bestowed his benediction upon
them. Then a great number of smaller palms were brought,
and a Cardinal, who acted as the Pope's aide-de-camp on
N 2
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180 BOHE.
this occasion, presented one of these to eyeiy Cardinal as
he ascended the steps of the throne, who agaii^ kissed the
Pope's hand and the palm, and retired. iSien came the
Archbishops, who kissed both the Pope's hand and toe,
followed by the inferior orders of clergy, in regular grada-
tions, who only kissed the toe, as they carried off their palms.
The higher dignitaries being at last provided with palms,
the Deacons, Canons, Choristers, Cardinals' train-bearers,
&c., had each to receive branches of olive, to which, as well
as to the palms, a small cross was suspended. At last, all
were ready to act their parts, and the procession was drawn
up in readiness to move. It began with the lowest in
clerical rank, who moved off two by two, rising gradually,
till they came to Prelates, Bishops, Archbishops, and Car-
dinals, and terminated by the Pope, borne in his chair of
state (sedia gestatoria) on men's shoulders, with a crimson
canopy over ms head. By far the most striking figures in
the procession were the Bishops and Patriarchs of the
Armenian church. One of the latter wore a white crown, and
another a crimson crown glittering with jewels. The mitres
of the Armenian Bishops were also set with precious stones ;
and their splendid dresses, and long wavy beards of silver
whiteness, gave them a most veneraMe and imposing appear-
ance.
The procession issued forth into the Sala Borgia (the
hall behind the Sistine Chapel,) and marched round it,
forming nearly a circle ; for, by the time the Pope had got
out, the leaders of the procession had nearly got back again ;
but they found the gates of the chapel closed against them,
and on admittance bein^ demanded, a voice was heard from
within, in deej) recitative, seemingly inquiring into their
business, or claims for entrance there. This was answered
by the choristers from the procession in the hall ; and after
a chanted parley of a few minutes, the gates were again
opened, and the Pope, Cardinals, and Pnests returned to
their seats. Then the Passion was chanted; and then a
most tiresome long service commenced, in which the usual
genuflections, and tinkling of little beUs, and dressings, and
undressings, and walking up and coming down the steps
of the altar, and bustling about, went on; and which at
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PBOCESSIOKS or THE HOLY WEEK. 181
last terminated in the Cardinals aU embracing and kissing
eacK other, which is, I am told, the kiss of peace.
You must be nearly as tired with this account of this long
jwmone as I was of seeing it, and it is quite impossible you
can be more so.
The procession would really have been worth seeing, if
it had teken place in St. Peter's church instead of this con-
fined little chapel and hall, in which, from the crowdinff and
squeezing, the fine dresses and palin branches, and aU the
pomp of the pageant, lost their effect.
The palms are artificial, formed of straw or the leaves of
dried reeds, plaited so as to resemble the real branches of
the palm-tree, which are used in this manner for this cere-
monv, in Boman Catholic colonies in tropical climates. These
artificial palms, however, are topped with some of the real
leaves of the palm-tree, brought fiom the shores of the Gulf
of Genoa.
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182. BOMK.
LETTEE LXXHL
Thb Holt Week — The Misebsbe — Holt THimsDAX —
Fbogebsioks — The Interment of Chbist — S^epiil-
CHBAL Illuminations op the Faolina Chapel — Thbt
Washino op Feet — The Sebvino at Table — ^Tbb
Penitenza Maooiobe — The Cboss op Fibe — The
Adobation bt the Fope and Cardinals — Th^ Belics
— Illuminated Sepulchbb of Chbist at San Anto-
nio de' Fobtoghesi — CoNCEBT OP Sagbed Music.
We enjoyed three days' relaxation from the toils of the
Holy "Week ; foi^ we did not go to see the body of St. Joseph
of Arimathea at St. Feter's on Tuesday, wJbich we might
have done ; but on "Wednesday evening, in our impatience
to secure places for the first Miserere in the Sistine Chapel,
we went at three o'clock, and sat waiting nearly an hour and
and a half, before the service commenced. Even at that
hour, however, the gentlemen had difficulty enough in find-
ing standing room, so great was the pressure in the confined
space allotted to them. Many were unable to get in for
want of room ; and many were turned back, for- presenting
themselves in boots or trowsers, instead of silk stockings;
for no man may attend this service of religion and penitence
imless he be dressed as if going to a ball ; and if he has and
description of military uniform, it is highly expedient fcr
him to wear it.
The seats for the ladies ,are at the lower end of the chapel,
where we are caged up behind a gilded grate, like so mapy
wild beasts ; being accounted almost as mischievous among
Fopes and Cardinals. "We were all dressed, according to his
Holiness*8 taste, in black, and with veils ; and I am told we
looked like a sisterhood of nuns through the gnCte.
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SEBYI0S8 IK THE SlflTIirE CHAPEL. }JS^
' An' el0yat^d place, called the Tribune^, appropriated foi^
kings, anji the princes; of. rp^al bloody was occupied by the^
old. e£-Kiog and Queen of Spain, Brince Ilenrj of Prusaia^
the Queen and young- King of Etruria, the Puke and]
Puchesa of G:enoa, the Prince Carignano, the young heir o£
Turin, and several other sprigs of fesh budding, or blighted;
iioyalty. Behind them sat the foreign ambas^^adors dl ini
Qrrow.
When at last the service, which the Italians call thq
Mcdtutino deUe Thtebre, did commence, nothing could exceed
Qiy disappointment. It was in no degree superior to thet
most ordinary chant of a Catholic church ; and finding no-,
thing .in it to occupy me, I amused myself with watching
the ill-concealed drowsiness of many of the Cardinalsi, who,
having just risen from dinner, seemed to have the greatest-
difficulty in refraining from taking their customary siesta.
Though broad day-light, there was a row of caudles of
ijjourning wax (of a &rk brown,, or purple colour) ranged
upon the top of our grate, the -utility of which was uot veryj
apparent, as they were extinguished before it grew dark.
There were also fifteen similar mourning candles, erected on
high beside the altar, which, I wag given to understand,,
represented the Apostles and the three Marys, rising gra-
dually in height to the central one, which was the Virgin*
As the service proceeded, they were put out one by one, to.
typify the falling oflf of the Apostles in the hour of insl ; so
that at last they were all extinguished, except the Virgin
Maiy, who was set under the altar.
The shadows of evening had now closed in, and we should;
have been lefc almost in total darkness, but for the dull redi
glare which proceeded from the hidden lights, of the unseen
choristers, and which, mingling with the aeepening twilight,,
produced a most melancholy gloom.
After a deep and most impressive pause of siJeiiQe, the
solemn Miserere commenced ; and never by mortal ear wa»
heard a strain of such powerful, suqh heart-moving pathos.
The accordant tpneg qf a hundred human voices — and one-
which seemed. i?iose thp.n human— ascended together tOi
heaven for mercy to mankind — ^for pardon to a guilty ani
sinning world, it hft4 Qothii:^ ift.it pf this, earth— wthing
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184 BOME.
that breathed the ordinary feelings of our nature. It seemed
as if every sense and power had been concentred into that
plaintiye expression of lamentation, of deep suffering and
supplication, which possessed the soul. It was the straia
that disembodied spirits might have used who had Just
passed the boundanes of death, and sought release ^om
the mysterious weight of woe and the tremblings- of mortal
agony that they had suffered in the passage of the grave.
It was the music of another state of bemg.
It lasted till the shadows of evening leU deeper, and the
red dusky glare, as it issued stronger from the concealed
recess wnence the singing proceeded, shed a partial but
strong light upon the figures near it.
It ceased — a priest with a light moved across the chapel,
and carried a book to the officiating Cardinal, who read a
few words in an awful and impressive tone.
Then, again, the light disappeared, and the last, the most
entrancing harmony arose, in a strain that might have moved
heaven itself — a deeper, more pathetic sound of lamentation,
than mortal voices ever breathed.
Its effects upon the minds of those who heard it, was
almost too powerful to be borne, and neveiv-never can be
forgotten. One gentleman fainted, and was carried out;
and many of the ladies near me were in agitation even more
distressing, which they vainly struggled to suppress.
It was the music of Allegri ; but the composition, however
fine, is nothing without the voices who penorm it here. It
is only the singers of the Papal chapel who can execute the
Miserere. It has been tried by the best singers in Ghsr-
many, and totally failed of effect.
There is never any accompaniment, though at times the i
solemn swell of the softfened organ seemed to blend with
the voices.
This music is more wonderful, and its effect more power-
ful, than any thing I could have conceived.
At its termination, some loud strokes, that reverberated
through the chapel, and are intended, I was told, to repre-
sent the veil of the Temple being rent in twaiu, closed the
service.
With Holy Thursday our miseries began. .
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' THE HISEBEBE. 185
On tliis disastrous day we went before nine to the Sistine
Chapel — after sitting an hour, saw the Pope enter — ^wit-
nessed the Cardinals' kissiog of hands, and priests' kissing
of toes, as usual — ^underwent the same tiresome repetition
of mass — and beheld a procession, led by the inferior orders
of clergy, followed up Dy the Cardinals in superb dresses,
bearing ion^ wax-tapers in their hands, and ending with the
Pope himsdf, who walked beneath a crimson canopy, with
his head uncovered, bearing the Host in a box; and this
being, as you know, the reiu flesh and blood of Christ, was
carried from the Sistine Chapel, through the intermediate
hall, to the Paolina Chapel, where it was deposited in the
sepulchre prepared to receive it, beneath the altar. The
ceremony of the deposition we did not witness; for the
moment the Pope entered, the doors of the chapel were
closed.
I never yet could learn, why Christ was to be buried
before he was dead; for, as the <3ruciflxion did not take
place till Good Friday, it seems odd to inter him on Thurs-
day. His body, however, is laid in the sepulchre, in all the
churches of Eome in which this rite is practised, on Thurs-
day forenoon ; and it remains there till Saturday at mid-day,
when, for some reason best known to themselves, he is sup-
posed to rise from the grave, amidst the firing of cannon,
and blowing, of trumpets, and jingling of beUs — which have
been carefiSly tied up since the dawn of Holy Thursday,
lest the devil should get into them. But I am anticipating.
The moment the Pope left the Paolina Chapel, the gates
were thrown open. Nothing could exceed the brilliancy of
its illumination, which lasted as long as the body lay in the
tomb. During these two days and nights, hundreds, clad in
deep mourning, were continually kneeling, in silence the
most' profound, and in devotion the most fervent, aroimd
the illuminated sepulchre of their crucified Eedeemer, over
which they wept in anguish of spirit. I have entered it on
tiptoe again and again, amidst the most awful silence, and
heard no sound but the sigh of penitence.
It was a cruel sight to see these thousands of sepulchral
tapers blackening the frescos of Michael Angelo ; and yet I
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JS6 BOHl.
don't know liow the^ can reasonably be objected to,, aince he
himself planned their arrangement.
We did. not wait for the re-opening of the chapel at pie^
sent, nor for the benediction the Pope waa a^rwards to^
give from the balcony of St. Peter's, knowing it would be^
repeated on Sunday; but hurried away to endeavour td
get places in ihe Sala della Lavatura^ to see the washing;
of feet.
It was not, however, till after great exertions on the paiii
of the gentlemen of our party, and afcer being nearly pressed"
to death in the most terrible squeeze I ever encountered^,
that we found ourselves in the hall, which was already}
crowded almost to suffocation ; and, completely exhau3teaj.
and scarcely half alive, we were placed upon the raised stepa^
reserved tor ladies,, exactly opposite to the pilgrims, or ratheir
priests, whose feet the Pope was to wash.
The ceremony is instituted in commemoration of our
Saviour's washing the feet of the apostles ; but here therQ
were thirteen instead of twelve. The odd one is the repre*.
sentative of the angel that once came to the table of twelve
that St. Gregory was serving ; and though it is not asserted
that the said angel had his feet washed^ or indeed did
anything but eat, yet as the Pope can hardly do less foi?
him than the rest^ he shares in tne ablution as well as th&
repast.
The twelve were old priests, but the one who representect
the angel was very young. They were aU drassed in loose
white gowns, with white caps on .their heads, and clean
woollen stockings, and were seated in a row along the waJl^
nnder a canopy. When the Pope entered and took his seat
at the top of the room, the whole company of them knelt in
their places, turning towards' him ; and on his hand being
extended in benediction, they all rose again and reseated
themselves.
The splendid garments of the Pope were then takea
off; and, clad in a. white linen robe which, he had on un-
der the others, and wearinff the bishop's mitre instead of
the tiara^ he approached the pilgrims, topfc from an. at-
tendant Cardinal. % silyec bucki^ of water«. knelt befco^
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8EBTICES 01^ THE HOLT WESK. 187
titfr firat of iheiB^. inrnteified one foot, in ikie wa^r, pui
water over it with his hand, and touched it with a squarO)
firinged cloth -^ kissed the leg, and gave the cloth, and a
sort of white flower, or feather, to the. man ; then went;
on to the next. The whole ceremony was orer,. I think,
in less than two minutes, so rapidly was this aot of hu-<
miUty gone through. From tnence the Pope returned
to his throne,, put on his robes of white and silver again,
and proceeded to the Sala della Tavola, whither we fol-
lowed, not without extreme difficulty, so immense waa
the crowd. The thirteen priests were now seated in a
tow at the table, which was spread with a variety of dishes,,
and adorned with a profusion of flowers. The Pope gave(
the blessing, and, walking along the side of the tables
apposite to them, handed eaoh of them bread, then plates,
and, lastly, cups of wine. They regularly all rose up ta
receive what ne presented; and the Pope having gone
through the fbrms of service, and given them hia parting
benediction, left them to finish their dinner in peace.
They carry away what they cannot eat, and receive ai
small present in money besides.
The ceremonies of this morning, which we were nearly
pressed to death to obtain a sight of, in my humble-
opinion, are not in the least worth seeing. Those, on
the contrary, which we witnessed in the evening,, were,
attended with no difficulty, and were, in all respects,,
highly interesting. I chiefly allude to the divine Miserere
ia the Sistine Chapel, which was, if possible, finer than
that of the preceding day. Before we went up to bean
it, (about four o'clock,) we stopped at St. Peter-s. to see;
the Penitenza Maggiore, a Carainal, who is armed with
powers to give absolution for crimes which no other priest
can absolve, and who sits on the evenings of Holy Thurs-
day, and Good Friday, in the great Confessional of St.
Peter's.
A man was on hisr knees, at confession when we were
there, whose face, of course, we could not see. The Car-
dinal had unceasing employment in touching ^ith his long
white wand, the heads of those who knelt before him for
this purpose, and who thereby receive great spiritual be-
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188 BOMB.
nefit. Yesterday he sat at the same hour in the Churct
of Santa Maria Maggiore.
The effect of the blazing cross of fire suspended from
the dome above the Confession, or tomb of St. Peter's,
was strikingly brilliant at night, when, at the conclusion
of the Miserere, we descended iato the church, whose inoi^
mense e^manse was thoroughly illuminated with its res-
plendent Brightness. The Cross is covered with innumer-
able lamps, which have the effect of one blaze of fire.
Though eighteen feet in length, its proportion to the im-
mensity of St. Peter's is so small that it looked like a
minute ornamental cross, such as a lady might wear round
her neck ; and its dimiuutiveness disappointed us all. The
whole church was thronged with a vast multitude, of all
classes and countries, from royalty to the meanest beggar,
all gazing upon this one object.
m a few minutes, the Pope and all the Cardinals descended
into St. Peter's, and room being kept for them by the Swiss
Ghiards, the aged Pontiff, whose silver hairs shaded his pale
and resigned head, prostrated himself in silent adoration
before the cross of fire. A long train of Cardinals knelt
behind him, whose splendid robes and attendant train-bearers
formed a striking contrast to the humility of their attitude.
Three abdicated monarchs knelt beside them, — ^the aged
King of Spain, the poor blind King of Sardinia, in the
simple garb of a Jesuit, and the King of Holland, (Louis
Buonaparte), in the dress of the plainest citizen ; the young
King of Etruria, and his mother Queen,* and many reigning
Princes of Germany and Italy, bent before the cross. SSence
the most profound reigned, while those whom all were bound
to worship upon earth, knelt before the throne of Heaven.
This striking scene has been so beautifrdly described by
Madame de Stael, that I will not attempt to give you any
account of it. She justly observes, that as soon as the act of
adoration is finished, St. Peter's resembles an immense cafe,
in which the people perambulate, apparently thinking of any-
thing but religion. The effect oi the fiery cross is much
diminished by the distracting lights in a little raised gallery
* Created Archduchess of the once happy Republic of Lucca.
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SXP08ITI0K OF BELICS. IW
on one side of the dome, in wMch tlie exposition of the relics
is made. These chiefly consist, I thinx, of a piece of the
true cross on which Christ was crucified, incased in gold ; a
bit of the spear which pierced the side ; a morsel of the
sponge ; and the volto santo, as the Italians call it, or ' the
toie unage' of the face of our Saviour on Santa Veronica's
handkerchief, whose statue, flourishing a marble pocket hand-
kerchief, stands immediately below. Each of these precious
relics were brought out successively by a priest, who carried
it iu his hands, and, followed by two others who carried
nothing, walked continually to and fro in the little gaUery —
much as I have seen a lion exercise himself in his aen.
Then stopping full in face of the people, he presented it to
their view, and at last went out with it at a door which
opened upon the gallery, from behind the scenes, and re-
turned with another.
Leaving St. Peter's we drove to S. Antonio de' Portoghesi,
to see the sepulchre of Christ. The open portal of this
small but beautiful church poured forth one flood of light.
The walls, columns, shriues, and lateral chapels, which are
entirely formed of the most beautiful polished marbles, re-
flected like a mirror the blaze of the innumerable tapers
with which it was illuminated. The sepulchre, which was in
the great altar, was overpoweringly resplendent. The
churdi, though crowded with people, was as silent as the
grave ; not a whisper — ^not a footstep was to be heard. AU,
except ourselves, were prostrate on the ground in silent
prayer; and, with light K>otsteps, we left it as soon and as
silently as we could
This evening we attended a grand Accadomia of sacred
music, in the house of an Italian lady. Voices, which almost
seemed more than human, sane, iu the alternation of recitative,
solo, duet, trio, and grand cnorus, a succession of the most
original, the most solemn, the most astonishing compositions
that mortal genius surely ever framed, or mortal ear ever
heard. It was music which resembled, in its wonderful
pathos and power over the soul, nothing that I could have
conceived this world to have produced. Never shall I forget
the divine Miserere with which it concluded. It surpassed
that which we heard at the Sistine Chapel, not only m the
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199 BOMB.
BUperioriiy of the con^position, but in havinff full tmS ex-
tremely hne Accompauiments ; whereas, at the latter, H^he
fDTisic is iurariably purely YoeaH, Out of Borne no sucfa
music is to he heard ; but it is in sacred mufioe, and especiaUy
in this branch of it, that the Eomans excel, or rather the^
possess it exclusively.
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BXBTICBB Olr GOOD FBIBAT. Wl
UBTPTEE LXXTV.
Good FBrDAT— Thb Tbb Gee— The Pilobims.
Os the morning of Good Fridajr, we resumed our weari-
«ome labours by going to the Sistine Chapel. About ten
o'clock the Pope appeared; and after a long service, the
crucifix over the altar, which had been covered up all the
week with a violet or purple-coloured cloth, (the mourning
of crosses and cardinals here), was uncovered. This is
called the Discovery of thp Cross ; and then, after a great
deal of fuss and mummery, it is laid on a napkin on a stand
before the altar, and after some chanting, and much loss of
time, the Pope comes to it, kneels to it, prays, or seems to
pray, over it, and goes away, and all the Cardinals come one
by one, and do the same. And this is called the Adoration of
tne Cross. Then they all set off upon the usual procession
to the Paolina Chapel ; the only difference being, that the
Pope walks without any canopy over him, and uncovered.
The doors of the Paolina Chapel were closed upon them, and
what they did there I don't know; only I understand their
business was to take up the Host which they had deposited
in the sepulchre yesterday. Certain it is, they came back
just as they went, except that the Pope wore his mitre. As
soon as this was over, without waitmg for the long mass
which was to follow, I went to the service of the Tre Ore,
* the three hours of agony' of Christ upon the cross, which
lasts from twelve to three.
It is a complete drama, and is performed in seyeral
churches. I attended it in S. Andrea delle Fratte, which,
before I arrived, was crowded almost to suffocation; but a
chair, in a commodious situation, and a soldier to guard it,
had been kept for me by the attention of the priests, who
had been apprised of my coming.
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182 Boia.
The upper part of tHe cliurcli was arranged like a theatre,
with painted trees, and pasteboard rocks and thickets,
representing Mount Calvaij. A little way down, two
Boman centurions, large as life, dressed in xniutaiy uniforms,
and mounted on pasteboard horses, were flourishing their
pasteboard swords. Higher up on the mount, on three
cruciflxes, were nailed the figiures of Christ and the two
thieves ; so correctly imitating life, or rather death, that I
took it for wax-work.
The Eoman Catholics saj that Christ spoke seven times
upon the cross,* and that at every saving a dagger entered
the heart of the Virgin, who is tieretOTe painted with seven
daggers sticking in her breast, and adcHred as 'Nostra Signora
de* sette dolori — Our Lady of the seven sorrows. -
The service of the H'e Ore, is, therefore, divided into
seven acts, between each of which there is a hvmn. In everv
act, one of the seven set dissertations, unon the sette parole
of Christ, is read — or begun to be reaa — ^by a priest, who
foes on until his lecture is interrupted by the preacher, who
reaks in upon it at whatever part he pleases with a sermon
(as they call it) or rather a tirade, of nis own, which seems
to be extempore, but I am told is previously learnt by rote.
A fat Dominican filled the pulpit on tms occasion. He
opened his seven sermons by a preparatory exhortation,
iaviting us to come to listen to the last accents of Christ, to
witness his dying agonies, &c. — ^in these words :
^^Venite ai ascoltar gli uUimi accenti di Ghsu. Quanto
sia giusta cosa e davuta, che i Christiani aceompaanino U hr*
Bedentore in queste ore tenerissme delV agonia, ' &c.
Then he said it was our ingratitude which caused him
these tremendous agonies.
* The seven sayings of Christ are as follows : —
Ist. — " Father I forgive them, for they know not what th^ do !"
2nd.~(To the go^ thief.) "To-day thon shalt be with me in
Paradise."
3rd.— (To the Virgin Mary,) ) " Woman ! behold thy son !
(and to the Apostle John,) f " Son 1 behold thy mother ! "
4th.—" My God 1 my God ! why hast thon forsaken me ! "
5th.—" I thirst."
6th.—" It is finished \" {Coruummatum est !)
7th.—" Father 1 into thy hands I commend my spirit 1 "
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ITALIAlSr FUBACHOTG. 198
" Ghtardatelb hene, O Jnime! (a term of great abuse) e la
vostra ingratitudvne che gli camona quelle tremende aganie di
morte. Quardelo bene su quetla eroce; tutto da capo a piedi
fatto una piaga, le spalle e tutto U corpo lacerati dai Jlagelli,
U petto snervato daUe percosse, il cc^ trapasstUo orrihil-
mente dalle spines i eapelU strappati, la harba schimtata, U
volto ferito dalle gtumciate, le vene vuote di sangue, la hocca
inaridata dalla sete, la lingua amareggiata dal fiele e dalV
aceto, le mani e piedi trivellaU e trafitti da fieri chiodi, e
questi squard inaspriti anehe piu dal peso del sua medesimo
oorpo,'^* &c. Ac. &c.
Then he burst forth into a string of apostrophes to Christ
on the cross, being an incessant r^etition of interjections
and vocatives, interlarded with a few metaphors, most of
which I hold to be perfectly untranskteable. The following,
which I took down verbatim from his mouth, were utter^
without the smallest interruption or pause : — " O mio Q^su /
O Ghsu amorosigsvmo ! O Fratello Qesu! Fratelh amoro-
sissimo ! O Oesu del mio cuore ! O amaratissimo mio Q-esu I
O &e9u affiitto ! O Q-esu coronato da spine ! O Oesu caro !
O Oesu mio ! O Oesu dohissimo ! O Oesu dohrosissimo !
O Oesu henignissimo ! O amcmtissimo nostro O^su! U cm
incendio amoroso non poterono estinguere le acque di tanti
crudelta e trihulazione / That is to say, " 0 my Jesus ! O
most beloved Jesus! 0 brother Jesus! Most beloved
brother ! O Jesus of my heart ! O most suffering Jesus !
O Jesus afflicted ! O Jesus crowned with thorns ! O dear
Jesus! O my Jesus! O most sweet Jesus! O most
sorrowful Jesus! 0 most benign Jesus! O our most
beloved Jesus ! whose burning love the waters of so much
cruelty and tribulation could not extinguish !"
Then he reviled us all, under every sort of vituperative
epithet, in which Mtmdani ! Anime ! Feecatori insensihili!
* " Look at him upon that cross — ^from head to foot one entire wound
— his shoulders, and aU his body lacerated with soouiigeB, Ms breast
braised with blows, his head torn cruelly with thorns, Ms hair pulled
away by the roots, his beard savagely plucked out, his £Ace battered
with blows, his veins devoid of blood, his mouth dried up with thirst,
his ton^e embittered with gall and vinegar, his feet and hands
wrenched round and transfixed with strong nails, and the torture of his
broken legs aggravated by the weight of his body," &;c. &;c.
VOL. II. O
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194 BOMX.
jPeceatari viP e gparohiuimi! were the best tHat fell to our
share, and reproached ub bitterly because we did not die
with grief at the sight of the suffermgs of our Bedeemer, as
the MdrHriy ConfeMori, and PemtetiH of old had done — ^Who
"morirono per impuUo d*un fervido voHro amore, J^tm
amore inespUcabUe mori Mana vostre Madrey d^tm amore
vivissmo mori la cara vosira Maddalena e la vottra Sposa
Caterina, Mmam* dtmque, Anime! Mmam* d^amoreT'*
Howeyer, we did not die, and he reviled us worse than ever.
*^ La vostra amma rascolta, e si rimane insensibile, eieca,
sorda, e mtUa, Vede morire il suo IHo, e non sotpira, non
piofwe I Fercke non muore quando muore egli /" f <Sx^* ^*
J^fay, he once called us stones, (pietrij and he not only
abused men, but aaseh — ^not only €»rth, but heayen — ^which,
under the name of ^^Ingrato Vielo!" he reproached with
being unworthy of him, and adjured to pnze him as it
ought.
When he reviled us for disobedience to the Ordinances of
Holy Church, through the gates of which, he said, were the
only ^ths to salvation, and depicted to us the flames of hell,
in wmch, he informed us, we should be consumed, if we did
not implicitly follow her icommands; and more than all —
when I heara him abuse us for not sufficiently mortifying
the flesh, and looked on his own surprising fatness — I own I
could not restrain a snule.
^ During his last discourse, which, in vehement emphasis,
ejaculation, and gesticulation, far exceeded the six preceding
ones, he continually importuned Christ for one sign, one
look — "Da mi tmo sguardoT^ &c.; at last he said he had
given him one look full of mercy — " wno sguardo pieno di
carita!^* — ^and he asked for another — "«wo sgua/rdo aneoray
wC altro sguardo — O Gesu mioP* &c. &c. At length the
discourse was drawn out to the right instant of time — ^the
three hours were expiring — "JScco il momenta T* he cried,
* " YTho died through the impulse of a fervid love for you, (Christ,)
of an inexplicable lore died Maiy, your mother ; of a most Uvely love
died your dear Magdalen ; and your wife Catherine (of Siena). Let us
die then, wretches as we are f Let us die of love."
f ** Your souls remain insensible, bUnd, deaf, and dumb. Yon see
your God die, and do not sigh nor weep. Why do you not die when he
diesl" &C.
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VSTOWiUtST 07 OHBIST. 195
and everybody sunk prostrate on the ground in tears ; — ^and
iaobs, and groans, and cries, and one loud burst of agony
Med the church — " Uceo il momento ! Qia spira Oesu Cris"
to! — Qia muore il nostro Bedentore! — Qihjinisce di vivere
il nostro Fadre ! " •
I believe mine was almost the onlv dry eye in the church,
excepting the priest's. The sobs oi the soldier, who leaned
on his firelock behind my chair, made me look round, and I
saw the big tears rolling down his rugged cheeks.
From this time I took no more notes, and therefore will
not pretend to give you any more quotations from the good
father's discourse, which he continued to pour forth with
still increasing vehemence, both of words and action, in a
strain of eloquence certainly of a kind well calculated to pro-
duce the effect he intended^ that of moving the passions of
his hearers.
At length the preacher cried, " Here they come — ^the holy
men — ^to bear the body of our Bedeemer to the sepulchre;
and from the side of the scene issued forth a bana of friars,
clad in black, with white scarfs tied across them, and gradu-
ally climbing Mount Calvary by a winding path amongst the
rocks and bushes, exactly like a scene upon the stage, rea^^hed
the foot of the cross, unmolested by the paper centurions.
But when they began to unnail the body, it is utterly im-
possible to describe the shrieks, and cries, and clamours of
grief, that burst from the people. At the unloosening of
every nail, they were renewed with fresh vehemence, and the
Sobs and tears of the men were almost as copious as those of
the women.
Five prayers, separately addressed to the five wounds of
Chriflt — ^first, the woimd on the left foot, then that of the
right foot, and so of the two hands, and, lastly, of the side,
were next repeated. They were nearly the same, and all
began, " Vi adoro piaga santiasimaJ'^ — (" I adore you, most
hofy wound.")
The body of Christ being laid on a bier, decked with
artificial flowers, and covered with a transparent veil, was
I brought down Mount Calvary by the holy men, — as the
I * " The moment is come ! Now Jesus Christ expires ! Now our
Bedeemer dies I Now our Father ceases to live ! "
o 2
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196 BOU.
preacher called them, — who deposited it on the fix>iit of ' tlie
stage, where all the people thronged to kiss the toe through
the veil, and weep oyer it. I was conducted round to it, alomg
with some Italian ladies of m^ acquamtance, through :..«
private passage, bj one of the civil priests, and so e^^oftd
the crowd. Upon dose inspection, I found that the bo4^
was made of pasteboard, extremely wdl painted for effect;
it had real hair on the head, and it was so well executecL,
that even when closely viewed, it was marked with the agony
of nature, and seemed to have recently expired.
The congregation consisted of all ranks, irom the prince
to the beggar, but there was a preponderance of the nigher
classes. Some ladies of the first rank in Borne were besi^
me, and they were in agitation the most excessive.
You may depend upon the accuracy of the quotations I
have given you from the good friar's harangues ; and they
may enable you to form some idea of the strain of pulpit
oratory here. I took them down from the preacher*s mou&,
while apparently I was occupied with my prayer-book, aad
I believe my employment was undi8C0v^*ea, except by tifee
soldier at my back.
After the last Miserere of the week at the Sistine Chapel
this evening, which I thought scarcely equal to that of
yesterday, we stopped in St. Peter's only to give a last
glance to the cross of fire; and without waitmg for its
second adoration by the Pope and Cardinab, we drove to
the Hospital of the OMmta de JPellegrini, where poor pil-
grims of all nations are gratuitously lodged and fed for three
days, during the Holy Week. This immense building has
sufficient accommodation for five thousand pilgrims, and is
frequently fuU. On the evening of Holy Thursday and
Good Pnday, many of the Cardinals, and Koman nobilitv of
both sexes, may be seen here, washing the pilgrims' &et,
and afterwards waiting upon them at supper like servants.
In the female apartments above stairs, we saw some of the
loveliest of the IU)man prmci^esse on their knees, washioj?,
with their own fair hands, the dirty feet of the female pu-
grims — ^while the old Cardinals below were performing the
same menial offices to the men. They do not, like the Pope,
ii^jsi^lj go through the form of it, but really and truly wash
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WASHUra TliE PILaSIMB* RET. 197
tbeir dirhr feet — as we can testify ; — ^for although females
are not allowed to enter the wards of the male pflgrims, jet
being curious to see how the old Cardinals looked, we ob-
tained permission to peep in, and found them scrubbing
away in good earnest, cleansing, I suppose, at once, the
pilgrims' feet, and their own soms. It was easy to see how
proud they were of this act of humility.
A Mend of ours tins evening attended a pious exercise of
a different sort, at a small church or oratorio, the name of
which I have forgotten, but belonging, I think, to the PP.
Caravita. Almost aU. present were clad as penitents, their
whole figures — even their heads and faces, — completely co-
vered with coarse dark cloth, and holes cut for their eyes.
The doors of the church were shut, and after a suitable
exhortation firom a &iar, scourges were distributed, the lights
were extinguished, and in total darkness the flagellation
began, which continued for twenty minutes, — while a dismal
sort of chanted music, like the wailings of suffering souls,
was sung. The candles were then relighted, and all de-
parted in peace.
The shops of all the pizzicaruoli, — ^the cheesemongers,
sausage-defers, &c. — are to-night most brilliantly illumi-
nated. It is the general custom they say, but I cannot
learn the reason.
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198 BOMS.
LETTEELXXV.
SATtTKDAT — ^BaFTISH OF THE JBWft— Ak OKDHTATIOir —
Tkb Bestjbbectiok — ^BLSBsnra the Houses — GomfES-
SIOK Ain> OO^SMTTSIO'S.
We were sillj enougli to get up this morning before six
o'clock, to see some Jews baptized at St. John's Lateran.
A couple of these unfortunate Israelites, and sometimes
more, are always procured on this day, every year, for this
purpose. Turks are preferred when they are to be had,
but they are rare. The Jews, I understand, are at present
very dear ; no less weighty arguments than eighlr Itoman
crowns each, I heard, were necessary to convince these new
proselytes of the Isruth of Christianity. Besides these
golden reasons, I am assured that no sooner does a Jew
see the error of his ways than his debts towards his brother
Jews are cancelled ; so that, as soon as he becomes a Chris-
tian, he is at liberty to be a rogue ; and if the wife of a
converted Jew refuses to embrace Christianity, he is held
to be divorced from her, and may marry another. Con-
siderinff this, it really says a great deal for them, that there
are so few converts. It is even hinted, that there are fewer
converts than baptisms; and that the baptismal rite is
sometimes performed upon the same neophytes.
The two devoted Israelites prepared iot this occasion,
attired in dirty yeUow silk gowns, were seated on a bench
within the marble font of the Baptistry, which resembles a
large bath, both in form and shape, and, in iauct, was used
as such in primitive times, when baptism was performed by
complete submersion. The font itself was empty, but the
ancient vase at the bottom of it, in which, according to an
absurd legend, Constantino was healed of his leprosy by
St. Sylvester, stood before them filled with water, and its
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BAPTISH 0¥ JEWS. 190
margin adorned with flowers. The unhappy Israelites, with
most rueM countenances, were conning tneir prayers out
of a book, while, close to their sides, stuck their destined
godfathers, — ^two black-robed Doctors of divinity, — ^as if to
guard and secure their spiritual captives.
The Cardinal Bishop, who had been employed ever since
81X o'clock in the benediction of Are, water, oil, wax, and
flowers, now appeared, followed by a long procession of
priests and crudnxes. He descended into the font, repeated
a great many prayers in Latin over the water, occasionally
dipping his hand into it. Then a huge flaming wax taper,
about six feet hi?h, and of proportionate thickness, painted
with images of the Yirgin and Christ, which had previously
been blessed, was set upright in the vase; more Latin
prayers were mumbled, one of the Jews was brought, the
Bishop cut the sign of the cross in the hair at the crown
of his head, then, with a silver ladle, poured some of the
water upon the part, baptizing him in the usual forms, both
the god£skthers and he having agreed to all that was required
of them. The second Jew was brought, upon whom the
same ceremonies were performed; this poor little fellow
wore a wig, and when the cold water was poured on his
bare skull, he winced exceedingly, and made many wry
faces. They were then conveyed to the altar of the neigh-
bouring chapel, where they were confirmed, and repeated
the Creed. The Bishop then made the sign of the cross
upon their foreheads with holy oil, over which white fillets
-were immediately tied to secure it. Then the Bishop ad-
dressed a long exhortation to them, in the course of which
he told them, that having now aWured their * ridicola super-
stizione,' and embraced the true mith, unless they continued
in their hearts good Christians without wavering, they
would bring upon themselves greater damnation, and be
thrown into the lowest pit of neU-fire; nay, if they ever
entertained a single Jewisn thought, or felt the least hank-
ering after their abominable idolatries, (there, I think, the
Jews might have retorted the charge,) nothing could save
them from this doom. He frightened them so, that the
little Jew with a wig began to cry most bitterly, and could
not be comforted. This being over, the Jews were con-
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200 aoxB.
ducted with great oeremonj from the Baptistry to the door
of the churcl^ where they stopped, and it was not till after
much chanting by the JBishop that it seemed settled they
should pass the threshold. Accordingly this was effected,
and they were seated within the yery pale of the altar,
where they had to witness such a tedious succession of
foolish ceremonies, that I marvel much they did not repent
them of their conversion. It was an ordiimtion of pnests
of all kinds and degrees, which lasted nearly fiye nours;
and though we had nothing to do with it, deluded by the
fallacious promise of some fine music, which never came,
we were foolish enough to stay till the end. The Bishop,
disrobed, and in his Hnen tunic, his golden mitre ex-
changed for one set with precious stones, threw himself
pros^te on the steps of the altar, with his face and arms
extended on the ground, and all the priests who were to
be ordained fell na,t on the floor behmd him in the same
posture. In about a minute the Bishop got up, said a few
unintelligible words, and threw himself down again. Then
up they all got, and after much fidgetting up and down, and
moving about, and chanting in their usual drawl, the Bishop
took a pair of scissors, invested several little boys with the
tonsure, by cutting a round piece of hair out of the crowns
of their heads, and then, after much ado, he put the little
white shirts over their heads, and made priestlings of them.
Poor little things, some of them did not seem to be more
than ten years old. I was glad to hear they might, after
this, leave the priesthood if they chose it. Then a batch
of deacons (irrevocable priests) were ordained; but these
cannot yet perform high mass, nor give extreme unction
nor absolution, nor perform any of those higher functions
of the church. It was a terrible time before their dressing
was completed. Then a number of deacons were created
priests, and their fore-finger and thumb were anointed with
holy oil, that they might elevate the Host ; and between
every time of using this holy oil, the Bishop always rubbed
his hands with lemon. But mortal patience would fail
under the recital of the endless little wearisome ceremonies
that were gone through — the dressings and undressings,
the pulling off and the putting on of mitres and robes, uie
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OBDrETATIOir OT PBIESTS. 201
.gettings up and sittings down, tKe bowings and scraping,
the hair-cuttings, the anointings, the chantings, and the
mummery of all kinds, that filled up these five mis-spent
hours.
At twelve o'clock we left the church aJong with the Car-
dinal Bishop, who ended the ordination by carrying out the
cup, followed by all the new-made priests and priestUngs.
At the same moment the resurrection was announced by
much ' tintionabular uproar,' as a witty friend of ours called
it ; and certainly the larum was astoimding. The bells of
every church in Eome, (and there are upwards of three
hundred,) began to jingle at once, the cannon from the
Castle of St. Angelo to fire, and at the Church of Santa
Maria Egyzziaca, the blowing of horns and trumpets, the
clang of kettle-drums, and every species of tumult, pro-
claimed the sacred event to the world.
During the days in which the bells are tied up — ^from
Holy Thursday to Saturday at noon, — the hours on which
they are usually rung for prayers, viz., six in the morning,
three in the afternoon, and the Ave Maria, which is imme-
diately after sunset, are announced by a little wooden
machme, called tric-trac, making a sound similar to its
name, but very noisy, with which some of the inferior clergy
run about the churches at the proper times. Though the
resurrection takes place on Saturday at noon, the fast is
not over till midnight, at which time most good Catholics
eat areisso, — ^that is, an enormous supper of fish, flesh, and
fowl. A total abstinence from food during the two previous
days is still practised by many, but the feasting is now more
universal than the fasting.
The priests are very actively emplojred at Easter in run-
ning in and out of every house, blessing it with holy water.
I could not think what one of them was about whom I
encountered on the stairs, dabbling away with a little brush;
when explained, I found the rest of the house had been
sprinkled, but that the Conte, our noble landlord, had not
ventured to introduce the holy water into our appartamento^
thinldng such an ablution would not be at all to our here-
tical taste; but I begged the good father to return and
besprinkle our rooms to his full satisfaction, assuring him
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202 xom.
I Bhonld be sony to depriye them of sach an advantage^
at which, and the sight of a piece of monej, he kughed most
heartily.
Every Italian must at this time confess, and receive the
oommunion ; it is compulsory. A Mend of ours, who has
lived a great deal in foreign countries, and there imbibed
very heterodox notions, and who has never to us made
any secret of his confirmed unbelief of Boman-catholic
doctrines, went to-day to confession with the strongest
repugnance.
" What can I do?" he said. " K I neglect it, I am re-
primanded by the parish priest ; if I dela^ it, my name is
posted up in the parish church ; if I persist in my contu-
macy, the arm of tne church will overtake me, and my rank
and fortune only serve to make me more obnoxious to its
power. If I chose to make myself a martyr to infidelity,
as the saints of old did to religion, and to suffer the extre-
mity of punishment in the loss of property and personal
lights, what is to become of my wife and family P The
same ruin would overtake them, though they are Eoman
Catholics; for I am obliged not only to conceal my true
belief, and profess what I depise, but I must bring up my
children in their abominable idolatries and superstition ; or,
if I teach them the truth, make them either hypocrites or
beggars." I shall not enter into the soundness of my friend's
arguments, or defend the rectitude of his conduct, but cer-
tainly the alternative is a hard one; and I believe there are
thousands whose virtue would not be proof against it ; for
this reason, he would not live a day in Italy if he could live
out of it, which is not in his power.
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SASTEB BUITDAT. 203
LETTER LXXVI.
Easteb SinrDAT— The BsinsBiOTioifr.
The grandest Eoman-catholic festival of the year is
Saster Sunday, which was doubly welcome to us, because
the last of the holy shows of this exhausting season. On
this day the church puts forth all her pomp and splendour.
The Pope assists at nigh mass, or, as the priests have it, — »7
tommo FotUefice canta Messa solen/nemente in 8, Fietro^—
and there is a procession, which, as it is seen to the highest
advantage in that noble church, is as grand as any such pro-
cession can be. A pen was Erected for us ladies in the left
of the high altar, for wherever the Pope comes we are always
cooped up, for fear of accidents. Luckily, however, it was
unprovided with a grate, so that we could see to perfection.
It was, in all respects, a happy liberation from the gloomy
imprisonment we had been sustaining day after day, in the
Sistine Chapel. The sable robes of the past week were uni-
versally thrown aside, and the gayer — ^the more catholically
orthodox — ^were we.
The church was lined with the Guarda Nobile in their
splendid uniforms of gold and scarlet, and nodding plumes of
white ostrich feathers; and the Swiss guards, with their
polished cuirasses and steel helmets. The great centre aisle
was kept clear by a double wall of aimed men, for the grand
procession, the approach of which, after much expectation,
was proclaimed by the sound of a trumpet from the farther
end of the church. A long band of priests advanced, loaded
with still augmenting magnificence, as they ascended to the
higher orders. Cloth-of-gold, and embroidery of gold and
silver, and crimson velvet, and mantles of spotted ermine,
and flowing trains, and attendant train-bearers, and mitres
and crueifixeB glittering with jewels, and priests and patri-
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20li soiis.
archs, and bishops and cardinals, dazzled our astonished eyes,
and filled the long len^h of St. Peter's. Lastly, came the
Pope, in his crimson chair of state (sedia gestatoria), borne
on the shoulders of twenty palfiremeri. He was arrayed in
robes of white, and wore the tiara, or triple crown of the oon-
ioined Trinity, with a canopy of cloth of silver floating over
his head, and was preceded by two men carrying enormous
fans composed of large plumes of ostrich feathers, mounted
on long gilded wands, lie stopped to pay his adorations to
the miraculous Madonna in her chapel, about half-way up ;
and this duty, which he never omits, being performed, he was
slowly borne past the high altar, liberally giving his benedic-
tion with the twirl of the three fingers as he passed.
They set him down upon a magnificent stool, in front of
the altar, on which he knelt, and his crown being taken off,
and the cardinals taking off their little red skull-caps, and all
kneeling in a row, he was supposed to pray. Having re-
mained a few minutes in this attitude, they took him to the
chair prepared for him on the right of the throne. There he
read, or seemed to read, something out of a book, for I know,
from having seen him read in private, that it was impossible,
without his spectacles he could really make it out ; and then
he was again taken to the altar, on wliich his tiara was placed ;
and, bare-headed, he repeated — or, as by courtesy, they call
it, sang — a small part of the service, threw up clouds of in-
cense, and was removed to the crimson canopied throne ; and
high mass was celebrated by a Cardinal and two Bishops, at
which he assisted, that is, he got up and sat down in par-
ticular parts.
During the whole service I could not help observing, that
the only part of the congregation who were in the least
attentive, were the small body of English, whom curiosity,
and perhaps sense of decorum, rendered so. All the Italians
seemed to consider it quite as much of a pageant as our-
selves, but neither a new nor an interesting one ; and they
were walking about, and talking, and inrerchanging pinches
of snuff with each other, exactly as if it had been a place of
amusement, — ^till the tinkling of a little bell, which an-
nounced the elevation of the Host, changed the- scene.
Every knee was now bent to the earth, every voice was
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THI pops'b BBKEDICTIOK. 205
Iiiislied, the reyersed arms of the mflitary rang with an
instantaneous dang on the marble pavement as thej sunk
on the ground, and all was still as death. This did not last
above two minutes. The Host was swallowed, and so began
aud ended the only thing that bore even the smallest out-
ward aspect of religion.
They brought the Pope, however, again to the footstool to
pray. Two Cardinals alwajs support him, some priestly
attendants bear up his tram, and others busy themselves
about his drapery, while two or three others put on and off
his tiara and mitre ; and so conduct him to and fro, between
the altar and throne, where he sits at the top of this magni-
ficent temple, exactiy like an idol dressed up to be wor-
shipped. The long silver robes, the pale, dead, inanimate
countenance, and helpless appearance of the good old man,
tend still more to give him the air of a thing without any
will of its own, but which is carried about, and set in motion,
and managed by the priests, and taught by them to make
certain movements.
At last they put him again into the chair of state, set the
crown iipon his head, and, preceded by the great ostrich-
feather fans, he was borne out of the church.
We made ail possible expedition up to the Loggia, — a
temporary sort of gallery erected on the top of the colon-
nade, opposite to that occupied by the royal families, — and
secured places in the front row. An expecting crowd had
long covered the broad expanded steps and platform of the
church, and spread itself over the piazza.
The military now poured out of St. Peter's, and formed an
immense ring before its spacious front, behind which the
horse-guards were drawn up, and an immense number of
carriages, filled with splendidly-dressed women, and thou-
sands of people on foot were assembled. But the multi-
tude almost shrank into insignificance in the vast area
of the piazza; and neither piety, curiosity, nor even that
all-universal gregarious passion that makes people crowd
to a crowd, had collected together sufficient numbers to
fill it.
The tops of the colonnades all round were, however,
thronged with spectators ; and it was a curious sight to see
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2106 &OHE.
Bucli a mixture of all ranks and nations, — ^from the coroneted
head of kings, to the poor cripple who crawled along the
pavement, — assemhled together to await the hlessing of an
old man, their fellow-mortal, now tottering on the hrink of
the grave.
Kot the least picturesque figures amon^ the throng, were
the cantadini, who, in every variety of cunous costume, had
flocked in from their distant mountain villages, to receive
the hlessing of the Holy !Father, and whose hright and eager
countenances, shaded by their long dark hair, were turned
to the balcony where the Pope was to appear. At length
the two white ostrich-feather fans, the forerunners of his
approach, were seen; and he was borne forward on his
throne, above the shoulders of the Cardinals and Bishops,
who filled the balcony. After an audible prayer he arose,
and elevating his hands to heaven, invoked a solemn bene-
diction upon the assembled multitude, and the people com-
mitted to his charge. Every head was uncovered, the sol-
diers, and manif of the spectators, sunk on their knees on the
pavement to receive the blessing. That blessing was given
with impressive solemnity, but with little of gesture or
parade. Immediately the thundering of cannon from the
Castle of St. Angelo, and the peal of bells from St. Peter's,
Eroclaimed the joyful tidings to the skies. The Pope was
orne out, and the people rose from their knees. !But at
least one half of them had never knelt at all, which greatly
diminished the impressive effect of the whole. There is
something in the sunultaneous expression of one imiversal
feeling among a multitude, especiaUy if that feeling par-
take of rejoicing, enthusiasm, devotion, or any generous
passion, that is affecting and sublime in the highest de-
gree; but if it be only partially diflftised, its effect is ut-
terly lost. I forgot to say, that, after the benediction,
several papers were thrown down by one of the Cardinals,
which contained, I tmderstand, the mdulgences granted to
the different churches, and a most pious scuffle ensued
among the people to catch them.
The Pope's benediction this day, the Italians say, ex-
tends all over the world, but on Thursday it only goes to
the gates of Eome.
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THE pops' s: BSKEDIGTIOir. S07
On Thursday, too, previous to the benediction, one of
the Cardinals curses all Jews, Turks, and heretics, * by bell,
book, and candle.' The little bell is rung, the curse is sung
from the book, and the lighted taper thrown down amongst
the people. The Pope's benediction immediately follows
upon all true believers.
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206 soxx.
LETTER LXXVn.
iLLTTMIKATIOir OF 8t. PeTBE's, AST) FiSSWOBKS FBOM
THE Castle San Anqelo.
Ws have just witnessed one of the most brilliant specta-
cles in the world — ^the illumination of St. Peter's ; and the
girandola, or fireworks, from the Castle San Angelo. In
general they are only given at the anniversary of the Festival
of St. Peter, which falls in the middle of summer, when Borne
is deserted by every stranger, and by all the inhabitants who
can escape ; but tms year, the old custom of exhibiting them
on the evening of Easter Sunday, has been revived, in com-
pliment to the Prince Eoyal of Bavaria,* who has been here
several months ; and it is only one of the many pleasures hia
residence at Some has yielded so those who have enjoyed the
advantage of his acquaintance.
At Ave-Maria we drove to the Piazza of St. Peter's. The
lighting of the lamtemoni^ or large paper lanterns, each of
which looks like a globe of ethereal nre, had been going on
for an hour, and by the time we arrived there was nearly
completed. As we passed the Ponte San Angelo, the appear-
ance of this immense magnificent church, glowing in its own
brightness — ^the millions of lights reflected in the calm waters
of the Tiber, and mingling with the iJast golden glow of even-
ing, so as to make the whole building seem covered with bur-
nished gold, had a most striking and magical effect.
Our progress was slow, being much impeded by the long
line of carriages before us ; but at len^h we arrived at the
piazza of St. Peter's, and took our station on the right of its
rarther extreminity, so as to lose the deformity of the dark
dingy Vatican Palace. The gathering shades of night ren-
dered the illumination every moment more brilliant. The
* Now King.
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iLLVMiHATioir 01* iT. fstib's. 200
whole of this immense chmrcli — its columns, capitals, corni-
088, and pediments — the heautiful swell of the lofty dome,
towering mto heaven, the ribs converging into one point at
top, surmonnted bj the lantern of the church, and crowned
by the cross, — aQ were designed in lines of fire ; and the vast
sweep of the circling colonnades, in eveij rib, line, mould,
cornice, and column, were resplendent with the same beau-
tiful li^ht.
While we were gazing upon it, a bell chimed. On the
cross of fire at the top, waved a brilliant light, as if wielded
by some celestial hano, and instantly ten thousand globes and
stars of vivid fire seemed to roll spontaneouslv along the
building, as if by magic ; and self-iindled, it blazed in a
moment into one dazzfing flood of glor^. Fancy herself, in
her most sportive mood, could scarcely have conceived so
wonderM a spectacle as the instantaneous illimiination of
this magnificent fabric. The agents by whom it was efiected
were unseen, and it seemed the work of enchantment.
In the first instance, the illuminations had appeared to be
complete, and one could not dream that thousands and tens
of thousands of lamps were stiQ to be illumined. Their
vivid blaze harmonized beauti^illy with the softer milder
li^ht of the Icmtemom. The brilliant glow of the whole
illumination shed a ros^ light upon the fountains, whose
silver &I1, and ever-playmg showers, accorded well with the
magic of the scene.
V iewed from the Trinita de' Monti, its effect was unspeak-
ably beautiful. It seemed to be an enchanted palace nung
in air, and called up by the wand of some invisible spirit.
We did not, however, drive to the Trinity de' Monti, till
after the exhibition of the girandola, or great fireworks from
the Castle of St. Angelo, which commenced by a tremendous
explosion, that represented the raging eruption of a volcano.
'Red sheets of fire seemed to blaze upwards into the glowing
heavens, and then to pour down their liquid streams upon
the earth. This was followed by an incessant and compli-
cated display of every varied device that imagination could
figure, one changing mto another, and the beauty of the first
efifaced by that of the last. Hundreds of immense wheels
turned round with a velocity that almost seemed as if demons
TOL. II. P
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210 BOHI.
were whirling th^n, letting fall thousands of hissing draeous
and scorpions and fiery snakes, whose long oonyolutions dart-
ing forward as fiir as the eye could reach in every direction,
at length vanished into air. Fountains and jets of fire threw
up their bhuring cascades into the skies. The whole vault of
heaven shone with the vivid fires, and seemed to receive into
itself innumerable stars and suns, which, shooting up into it
in brightness almost insufferable, vanished — ^like earth-born
hopes.
The reflection in the depth of the calm clear waters of the
Tiber was scarcely less beautiful than the spectacle itself;
and the whole ended in a tremendous burst of fire, that,
while it lasted, almost seemed to threaten conflagration to the
world.
But this great agent of destruction was here wholly inno*
cuous. Mui, who walks the earth, ruling not only the whole
order of beings, but the very elements themselves,' has turned
that seemingly uncontrollable power, which might annihilate
the very globe itself, into a plaything for his amusement, and
compelled it to assume every whimsical and fantastic form
that his fancy dictates. It sdone, of all things in existence — >
reversing the order of nature, — arises from earth towards the
skies ; vet even this he has bowed to his will. Wonderful as
these fireworks were, — and let not that name lead you to
imagine they bore any resemblance to those puny exhibitionB
of squibs and crackers which we denominate fireworks in
England, for nothing could be more different, — wonderM as
they were, the illumination of St. Peter's far surpassed them.
It is a spectacle which, unlike other mere sights that are seen
and forgotten, leaves an indelible impression on the mind.
The expense of the illumination of St. Peter's, and of the
girandola, when repeated two successive evenings, as thej
mvariably are at the festival of St. Peter, is 1000 crowns ;
when exhibited only one night, they cost 700. Eighly men
were employed in the instantaneous illumination of the lamps,
which to us seemed the work of enchantment. They were so
posted as to be imseen.
I have now been in Bome during a second Holy "Week,
and have enjoyed the immunity I dearly earned Last year
from all its show and &tigues.
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OHBISTMAB OSBBMOimfiS. fill
The tliree Misereres in the Sistme Chapel — ^the exhibition
of the cross of fire in St. Peter's, and the rope's benediction
fi-om the balcony of the church, are all that 1 have attended,
and all that I should attend, if I were to live fifty years in
Eome. The procession into St. Peter's, and the high mass
either on Easter Sunday, or on Christmas-day — ^for they are
exactly the same — are, however, very well worth seeing otce,
but once will suffice.
Excepting this, none of the ceremonies at Christmas in
tiie Church of Eome are worth seeiug at all, and indeed
there are very few to see. On Christmas-eve, a mass is said
in the Sistine Chapel, if the Pope be at the Vatican Palace ;
or at the Quirinal Chapel, if he be at the Quirinal Palace,
which lasts till midnight. But there are no ceremonies what-
ever to see — ^no music whatever to hear ; the Pope himself
never attends it, and the Cardinals who do, like the rest of
the congregation, are more than half asleep.
Yet most strangers go to it, and all repent of so doing.
Prom thence the^ generaUy proceed to some church where
there is music, wnich is rarely worth hearing ; and at four in
the morning they adjourn to Santa Maria Maggiore, where
the grand vigO of Christmas-eve is held ; and after sitting
out a most wearisome mass, they are at last rewarded with
the sight of the new-bom Christ, carried about dressed in
magnificent swaddliag-dothes, for the devotion and delight
of the people.
I once went through this ceremony in a Portuguese cathe-
dral, and never repented any other act of foUy so much ; in-
deed, it is whoUy without an object, for the same doU which
represents the in&nt Saviour of the world, may be seen at
any hour you please, either before or after the time of its
birth, and I cannot understand the advantage of looking at it
just when one should be in bed.
This vigil of Christmas-eve was formerly really held on the
eve ; it began before midnight, and lasted till three or four in
the morning ; but such scenes of indecorous gaiety and in-
trigue went on, on this occasion, in the church itself, that Ihe
hours were altered.
p2
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213
LBTTBE LXXVm.
CoirrEKTs— TAmro the Veil.
The re-institation of tlie Inquisition, of the Jesuits, and of
Monastic orders in the nineteenth oentuiy, is a retrograde
step in the progress of sociel^.
The French suppressed all conyents of men, without ex-
ception. Thej seized upon their revenues, took possession
of their ancient habitations, invested as manj of their ton-
sured heads with the military cap and feather as could be
made to submit to them, and shipped off those who refused
to renounce their vows, to imprisonment in Corsica and
Sardinia. That the poor and the old, who had passed their
Hves within the peacefid cloister, and given to their convent
the little stipena that was to secure support to their latter
years, must have suffered severely when thus deprived of
all, there can be no doubt. But these excepted, I own that
lor the whole race of monks and j&iars, " blacl^ white, and
grey, with all their trumpery," I feel little compassion. In
tbe same summary manner, all the nunneries in Eome,
excepting two, were suppressed; but, however wise mifi^ht
have been their gradual abolition, the propriety of tummg
out at once so many secluded, and, in many cases, destitute
and harmless females, may be doubted. Of the consequence
of this step, judging of them, as I must do, from hearsay
only, I wHl not venture to speak. But since they had been
suppressed, and all those evil consequences once incurred, I
cannot but lament that they should have been again restored
— especially in such numbers ; and, above all, that convents of
men, which I look upon to be nests of vice, hypocrisy,
ignorance, and abomination, and which, for the most part,
are filled with young sturdy beggars, should have been
reestablished at all. The exact number of convents, and sidll
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ooirYEirrs .utd xokastbbibb. 218
more of their inmates, it is difficult to ascertain ; but all
allow that the friars oonsiderablj' oat-number the nunis^
With the assistance of one or two aboH, I counted upwards
of fifty convents for men, and five-and-thirtj for women, in
Itome and the immediate yicinity, and probably we left many
unreckoned.
I have visited many of the nunneries, and one or two of
the convents in Bome ; for a con/venio always means here a
monastic community of men, and a monasterio^ of women ;
—although the reverse is the case in general parlance in
England; — ^but as the interior of one much resembles an*
other, and as there is nothing particularly interesting about
any of them, I shall only give you a short account of my
visit to that of S. Svlvestro ifi Capite, originally founded for
the noble sisters of the house of Colonna^ wno dedicated
themselves to Gfod.* None but the daughters of noble
families are admitted here; and yet in this living grave,
where rank, riches, youth, beauty, and genius, are aU buried
in equal nothingness, and where nearly all but the mere
animal powers are extinguished — ^what can it signify with
what titles they were once adorned ?
The Convent of S. Sylvestro stands in the Campo Marzo,
in one of the best situations of modem Bome. It is an
immense building, three stories high, in the form of a quad-
rangle, enclosing a small garden in the centre, which, from
being so enclosed, is neither blessed with much light nor
air. Here, however, alone the nuns can enjoy " these com-
mon gifts of Heaven;** for, unlike the monks and friars,
who may roam about the town and country, they may never
cross the threshold of their prison-house. Yet these nuns
are of the Franciscan order, the mildest of all. They are
allowed to see all their near relations at the grate, and even
occasionally to receive the females in the parlour of the
convent. They are not obliged to rise to nocturnal prayer,
nor to practice fasts and penances of peculiar austerity.
The privilege of speech is not denied them ; nor is the use
of linen forbidden, in order that the dirt of the body may
serve for the purification of the soul.
♦ In the year 1818. — Vide Gibbon's Decline and Fall, vol. xii., chap.
70, p. 814.
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214 BOKX.
About forty nuiui, with about half the number of Isy
nsters, or BerrantB, oecupy this spacious monastery, which
would contain more than a hundred; indeed, during the
whole time the Fr^ich were in Borne, it also receired a
community of expelled nuns of the Capuchin order, who
voluntarily continued to practise all its austerities, though
living with the Franciscans of San Svlvestro. None of
either sisterhood left their order, though all, at that time,
were at perfect liberty to do so.
The Superior, a fine-looking woman, conducted us throujgh
the convent, and seemed much gratified and amused with
our visit. She is now near fifty, and had herself taken the
vows at the age of twenty, not only voluntarily, but in oppo-
sition to the wishes of her parents, and assured us she had
never repented it. When aisked why she had chosen at that
age to leave her family, and renounce the world, she replied,
" Because Gt)d called me !" — (Ferche Dio mi chiamb.)
The convent contains nothing remarkable. There is a
large, wild-looking, cold, cheerless hall, or refectory, in which
the^ all assemble to dinner and supper, but no sitting-room.
Their own apartments, in which they usually sit as well as
sleep, are tolerably lai^, and decently clean, but have no
fire-place, and consequently lose that important ventilation.
This deficiency of a chimney, however, is common in all true
Italian houses, and a brazier Ml of ignited charcoal is the
usual and unwholesome substitute for the cheerM and salu-
tanr blaze of a fire.
Six or seven of the nuns were sitting at work together," in
one of their bed-rooms ; for they have nothing in the world
to do, except to pray and make their clothes. They do,
indeed, take in children to educate, though how they educate
them is more than I can conceive ; for though I was in every
Eart of the convent I could neither see nor hear of an^
ook, except their prayer-books. When I asked them if
they had not a Bible, they were shocked at such a pro&ne
idea.
Luckily, aa we thought, for the poor children, they had
then only three pupils; but, in general, they have a con-
siderable number. They showed us a little theatre in the
convent, where their scholars, assisted by some of the nuns.
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TAKnrO THZ TEIL. 215
occasionally act sacred dramas during the CamiTal, to a
select audience of their female rektires.*
The nuns' apartments in erery story open upon a gallery
-vrhich runs round the quadrangle that forms their convent,
and from the top of all they have a halcony, from which,
6b, height of happiness ! they can catch a distant glimpse of
the Corso. They eagerly showed it to us, and this peep
of the world they had left^ seemed their highest enjoyment.
Their eager curiosity ahout us — our persons, names, situa-
tions, ages, reasons for coming to Italy, and to their convent
— but, above all, about every article of our dress, its make,
texture, &shion, and value, was quite insatiable; and the
questions they asked perfectly unanswerable.
They have a large apothecary's shop in the convent, where
-medicines are compounded by two ot the nuns, which must,
I should think, be the death of many of them. The doctor,
however, is the only man ever admitted into the convent,
except the confessor and the Pope, — ^who once paid them
a visit— an event never to be forgotten.
I ought, too, to have excepted the Cardinal Vicario, who
has the charge of all the convents (I mean mmneries), and
must have enough upon his hands, I should think.
We saw two cofwerH, girls destined to be nuns, but who
had not yet taken the noviciate veil. They were, however,
called sposme, the affianced spouses of Christ. Both were
Toung, and one was very pretty and lively. She was a
liucchese of a noble &mily, and had lived here two years, —
and yet was resolved to be a nun, a thing which is to me
quite incomprehensible. Two days, I should think, would
cure any body. She was only waiting for her portion, which,
in this convent, is unusually nigh, bemg 1500 crowns, beside
a small annual stipend ; the exact amount of which I have
forgotten.
A novice, after taking the white veil, may leave the con-
vent ; and instances of it have occurred, but they are rare.
Extreme ill health, an incurable disease, or the death of
* These sacred dramas would, however, be considered of rather a
profane nature in our countiy. Our Saviour, the Virgin Maiy, Maiy
Magdalen, the whole host of heaven — ^and even the Deity himself— are
among the dramatis personn.
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216 Boici.
Im)t1ieni and nusters, widcli makes it neeeflsaiy for ike fncHm
to be recalled to support the name or fortune of the fEuniljy
are almost without exception, the reason of such erents,
when thej do occur. Bepentanoe, disinclination, however
often they may happen, are oonccMaled or avowed in yain.
A woman who should persist in returning to the world,
would be welcomed, not only with its dread laugh, but its
severest reprehension. Her fan^y would consider them-
selves dishonoured, and, in all proDabiHty, would refuse to
receive her. Her friends and acquaintance would scarcely
associate with her. No man would ever look upon her for
his wife. She would be an object for the finger of scorn to
point at. Under such circumstances she must take the
vows or die.
It is only a few days since I saw a young lady, of noble
fisunily, — ^the Contessa M , witmn these very walls,
take tiiose vows, which must therefore be considered irre-
vocable. She was young and handsome, and it was said that
she entered the cloister by her own choice, uninfluenced by
her parents. Still, it was a sufficiently melancholy sig^ht,
and I could not help thinking how often, in the long tedium
of the living death to which she had doomed herself, she
might look back to this moment with vain repentance, — not
the less bitter because she could only blame herself: nor
when I saw the crowds that filled the church — ^the pathway
and altar strewed with flowers — ^the public applause — ^the
gaze of strangers — the chorus of nuns — ^the blessings of
Cardinals — the flattery of priests, and the tears of friends —
could I help asking myself, if the secret vanity of being the
heroine of such a scene, might not have had its influence in
her determination ?
By particular favour, we had been furnished with billets
for the best seats, and after waiting about half an hour, two
footmen, in rich liveries, made way for the young countess,
who entered the crowded church m full dress, her dark hair
blazing with diamonds. Supported by her mother, she ad-
vanced to the altar. The ceremony you must often have
heard described, and I need not fatigue you with a minute
repetition of its details. The officiating priest was the Car-
dinal Yicario, a fine-looking old man ; the discourse from the
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TAEIIf0 THE TXn. 217
mipit WHB pronounced by a Domimcan monk, who addressed
ner as the affianced spouse of Christ, — a saint on earth ; —
one who had renounced the vanities of the world, for a fore-
taste of the joys of heayen. There was much of eulogium,
and little of admonition — ^much rhapsody, and little sober
reason or religion in it — ^very much that was calculated to
inflame the inexperienced imagination, but little that could
direct the erring judgment.
The sermon ended — ^the lovely victim herself, kneeling
before the altar at the feet of the Cardinal, solemnly abjured
that world whose pleasures and affections she seemed so well
calculated to enjoy, and pronounced those irrevocable vows
which severed her firom them for ever.
As her voice, in soft recitative, chanted these fatal words,
I believe there was scarcely an eye, in the whole of that vast
church, unmoistened by tears.
The diamonds that sparkled in her dark hair were taken
off; and her long and beautiful tresses fell luxuriantly down
her shoulders. One lock of it was cut off by the Cardinal.
The grate that was to entomb her was opened. The
Abbess and her black train of nuns appeared. Their choral
voices chanted a strain of welcome. It said, or seemed to
say,
" Sister spirit, come away ! "
She renounced her name and title — adopted a new appella-
tion— received the solemn benediction of the Cardinal, and
the last embraces of her weeping Mends — and passed that
bourn through which she was never to return.
A pannel behind the high altar now opened, and she
appeared at the grate again. Here she was despoiled of her
splendid ornaments, her beautiful hair was mercilessly severed
from her head by the fatal shears of the sisters, and holding
up a temporary curtain, they hastened behind it, to take off
her own rich dress, and invest her with the sober robes of
the nun — the white coif and the novidate veil. This veil, it
may be necessary to explain, is a piece of cloth fixed on the
top or back part of the head, and falling down behind, or on
each side, in the same manner as on a veiled statue. It is
not intended to conceal the face, nor can it answer that pur-
pose ; 80 that all you read in foolish romances about blush-
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i218 BOMS.
ing nnsB or novices pulling down their yeOs, to sare them
from the gaze of some admiring youth, is sheer nonsense.
Indeed, they are in no danger of iJeing incommoded with it,
as they can never more be seen by man. Their ordinary-
devotions are practised in a private chapel within the con-
vent, and when they attend mass, they sit high up in a lofty-
church, completely screened from view by a gflded grating,
so dose, that it is impervious to the external gaze, thougli
the nuns can see through it.
The dress of the Franciscan order, and, indeed, of every
other I have ever seen, is plain and coarse, and far from
beautiful. The gown is a black stuff, but made so awkwardly,
that it is a complete disguise to the figure. The graces of
the "Venus de' Medicis herself, if she were attired in such
habiliments, would be lost. But the quantity of white linen
that surrounded the head and face, was rather becoming to
the bright eyes and lovely countenance of the young novice,
and when the curtain was removed, we all agreed that she
looked prettier than before.
Throughout the whole ceremony she showed great calm-
ness and firmness, and it was not till all was over that her
eyes were moistened with the tears of natural emotion.
She afterwards appeared at the little postern-gate of the
convent, to receive the sympathy, and praise, and congra-
tulations of all her friends and acquaintance ; nay, even of
strangers, all of whom are expected to pay their compliments
to the new spouse of heaven.
The history of one of the former nuns of this convent,
as related to me by one of the sisters, is quite a romance,
and in its most common-place style. Her name was Sasso
Ferrato; she was left an orphan and an heiress from in-
fency, and placed by her undo, her sole guardian, here,
with the intention of inducing her to take the veil, that her
fortune might descend to him and to his family. It hap-
pened, however, that at one of the ^rand processions of tne
Virgin, which the nuns were assembled to behold, the young
Sasso Eerrato saw, and was seen by the captain of the
guards, stationed at the convent, a yoimger son of the
Giustioiani £eunily, and a brother of one of her youthful
companions in the convent. His visits to his sister became
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rAMHSTTABCB CiLTASTBOPnX. "Sltf
vwy frequent, aixd Sasso Ferrato ^nerally contrired to ac-
componj her friend on those occasions. They became despe-
rately in love ; but the cruel unde refrised his consent, and
by arts which intimidated the young and inexperienced
mind of Sasso Ferrato, by powerful interest, wmch ren-
dered the complaints of her lover vain, and by his autho-
rity as the representative of her parents, he succeeded in
obliging her to take the veil. She only lived two years
afterwM^.
Ker lover became a maniac, and after being confined for
some time, continued, during the remauung years of his
life, to roam about the neighbourhood of the city, his
hair and beard growing wild, his dress neglected, and his
manners gloomy and ferocious, though harmless in his
actions.
A stiU more horrible catastrophe ensued at a convent in
the north of Italy. An unfortunate girl, whose father was
resolved to compel her to take the veil contrary to her
inclination, persisted for a long time in her refusal, but was
treated with such dreadful brutalify at home, that at length
she consented; but no sooner had she pronounced her
vows, than she requested a private interview with her
father at the grate of the convent; and when left alone
with him, killed herself before his eyes, cursing him with
her latest breath.
This story, horrible and improbable as it may seem, is
quite true. I know the family, but refrain, from obvious
reasons, from mentioning their name. It is not, however,
true that girls are often forced to take the veil ; but to say
they never are, is equally false. I am informed that young
nuns often faU in love with young friars, but the attacnment
is perfectly platonic. Indeed, so strict are now the rules
of female monastic life, that I believe it must necessarily
be so. But love, it is well known, will break through bolts
and bars, and grates and convent walls; and love once
inspired a nun with the project of getting out of her con-
vent through a common sewer, which, however imsavoury
a path, she frequently practised after night had covered
the world with her sable curtain, and wrapped the peaceftd
sisterhood in the arms of Morpheus. Her nun's dress was
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'220 BOMS.
deposited in her chamber, and the exterior dirfy garment,
with which she paAsed through the sewer, was exchanged
for one her lover wrapped her in at its mouth. She n^ed
to walk with him sometmies for hours, but always returned
to her convent before the dawn. One evening, however,
on returning from her romantic ramble bj moonlight, what
was her horror to find the sewer — ^the weU-known passage
— completely choked up with water, and all entrance im-
Eracticable ! Discovery would bring certain destruction on
erself and her lover. Their lives would be the forfeit, or
a solitary dungeon their mildest doom. Concealment was
impracticable; for who would harbour them? — ^flight im-
possible ; for without passports, the gates of the city would
De closed against them ; and could they scale the walls, no
other refuge would be open to them. In this situation
the courage and presence of mind of the nun saved them
both. She went, dressed in her lover's clothes, to the
house of the Cardinal Vicario, who was an old friend of
her father's, disturbed the family, had the Cardinal roused
out of bed on the plea of the most urgent and important
business, obtained a private audience, tlu*ew herself at his
feet, and confessed all. So earnestly did she implore him
to save her and her family from the public disgrace of an
exposure, that, melted by her tears, ne followed the plan
she suggested, ordered his carriage, took her and one con-
fidential chaplain on whose fidelity he could rely, drove to
the convent, rang up the portress, and pretending he had
received information of a man having entered and being
concealed in it, demanded instant admittance to search it,
which, in virtue of his office, could not be refused at any
hour. He ordered the terrified sisters to remain in their
rooms, and having dropped the disguised nim in hers, pro-
ceeded in his mock examination iSjl she had disrobed her-
self, and his attendant had conveyed away the bundle of
her clothes ; then professing himself perfectly satisfied that
the information he had received was fisdse, he left the con-
vent,— taking care, however, next day, to have the sewer
so closed that it could never serve for anything but a pas-
sage for dirty water a^n.
The most severe of the female monastic orders is that of
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THB 8EP0LT0 TITO. 221
Santa Theresa^ in which its unfortunate yotaries are doomed
to unceasing midnight vigils and daily &8ts, to penance,
austerity, and mort^cation, in every possible form; while
all intercourse with their friends, all indulgence of the
Bweet affections of nature, are as sedulously mterdicted as
if these were crimes of the blackest dye. It is the great
merit of their lives that death is to be continually before
their eyes, continually present to their thoughts, — ^like a
man that should stand rooted before a dock, with his eyes
fixed on the hour to which it was tending, and lose, in its
<3ontemplation, the intervening moments. But to all intents
and purposes, to all the duties, pleasures, and hopes of life,
they are as completely dead as if the grave had already
closed over them. And what is it but a living death, a
more lingering mode of being buried ahve ? That punish-
ment which the fanaticism of Pagans inflicted on guilty
vestal virgins, the fanaticism of £[)man Catholics inflicts
upon the mnocent — and they call this religion and virtue !
W as man, then, bom voluntarily to seek to suffer, or was
life given to him only to contemplate its close ? Was he,
whom the very voice of Nature calls to partake of the
common blessings Heaven has diffused upon the earth, con-
demned by the voice of Heaven itself, to exclude himself
from the social duties, the natural enjoyments, and the
sweet and innocent pleasures of our nature ? Is he acting
his allotted part, when, like a flend on earth, he increases
the quantity of human misery, and cuts off the sources of
natural happiness ? But I must restrain my indignation,
as vain as it is just; for when did it avail to exclaim
against any of the follies, the infatuation, or the crimes of
man?
There is in Eome a convent called, and justly called, the
Sepolto Ywo^ in which are buried alive contumacious or
fanatic nuns, from all convents ; females condemned by the
Inquisition for too little or too much religion — and wives
and daughters, whose husbands and fathers have the means
to prove they deserve, or the interest to procure the order
* It is near the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore; and there
were about forty unfortunate females immured in it when I was in
Boma.
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222 HOME.
for such a dreadful ptmishment. Instances have occnrred,
where mere resistance to the will of a parent, or causeless
jealousy conceived by a husband, have been followed by
this horrible vengeance. What may pass within its walla
can never be known; none but its victims may enter, and
none of them may quit it. They see no human beings
excepting once a-year, when, in the presence of the abbess,
they may have an interview with their father or mother;
but they must not tell the secrets of their prison-house.
They hear no tidings of the world that surrounds them, nor
even know when the friends dearest to them are removed
by death.
I have been much interested in the fate of a poor nun,
who, in the exaltation of a heated imagination, lately fancied
herself inspired by heaven, and destined to convert sinners
to repentance. The tribunal of the Inquisition has decided
that ner claims to inspiration are unfounded, and though it
appears that she was a fanatic, not an impostor, they hare
thrown her into this horrible tomb, whither, if it be the fit
punishment for all holy cheats, I think its members might
aU go themselves.
By far the least exceptionable species of nunnery here, is
that of the Tor' d^ SpeccM, where a company of respectable
women, chiefly widows of small fortune, live together, and
lead a rational, regular, and religious Hfe, without binding
themselves by any vows, but obey certain rules, and are
under the direction of a Superior, who is elected by them-
selves, and only holds her office for a limited period. They
wear a uniform dress, have the power to go out, with cer-
tain restrictions, and are much more free and independent,
in all respects, than any other similar community. They
may leave it if they choose. Such an institution as this in
our country would be a respectable and comfortable asylum
for unprotected unmarried women, and widows of smaH
fortune. These ladies also educate children. There are
likewise several meritorious communities of females, who,
under the name of Maestre Fie, devote themselves to the
education of children of the poor.
I forgot to mention, that m the month of May, there are
few convents in which the nuns do not enjoy the privilege of
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PI0XJ8 JL9S0CIXTI0VB, 223^
ffomg out in a body in coaches into tlie country, where they
aine and spend the day at the house, aud with the female
friends of the Superior or some of the sisters. Some con-
vents have both a whole and a half holiday ; others only the
latter. I often met them last spring in their annual festi*
vals ; and it was delightful to see their countenances of
ahnost anxious joy, and the wild astonished eagerness with
which they gazed on the houses, the passengers, the carriages,
the fields, the trees, the fair face of nature, and the inter-
dicted figure of man.
It is very common in the higher orders among the laity
of both sexes in Bome, to retire into a convent for a few
days or a week, (generally Passion week,) of every year,
to practice prayer and penance, during which period they
strictly conform to the rules of the community, and not
unfrequently increase the austerity of their proscribed fasts
aud vigils : not to mention hearing four sermons a-day.
Por this purpose of secular penitence, there is one convent
appointed for men, and another for women, which are amongst
the most rigorous in their discipline. That destined for the
poor females, is in reality a dreary abode ; but the Convent
of St. John and St. Paul, which is the place of penitence for
the male sex, appeared to me rather a desirable retreat. Its
long corridors and spacious apartments, are clean, light, and
cheerful, and it contains an extensive library.
There is nothing worth notice in the church of this con-
vent, excepting that you are shovni the very spot of the
martyrdom of St. Jolm and St. Paul, — ^not the apostles —
only two Saints of that name. Lorenzo de' Medici v^rote a
pious drama, or mystery, commemorating their fate, which
was acted at Morence with all the magnificence of his reign.
These saints, who were brothers, were treated with distin-
guished favour b^ Santa Constantia for being Christians, and
beheaded by Juhan the Apostate for the same reason. Their
death was avenged by a certain St. Mercury, — apparently
the old pagan god, enlisted as saint, — who got out of his grave
on purpose to kill that emperor in a battle. These murders
are the only incidents of the piece ; which ends, like Tom
Thumb, in the slaughter of the whole dramatis personsB.
The monks had never heard of this drama, but seemed
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pleased when I mentioned it, though they did by no means
agree to my proposal of hayins it enactea in honour of their
patron saints, on the .spot of their maitjrdom.
The gardens of this convent, which hang on the summit of
the Codian Hill, amidst a durk grove of cypress, command
one of the most striking prospects which even Borne can
boast,-— of the mighty Colosseum in the plain beknr,*— the
Triumphal Arches, — and the mouldering pahice of the Cffisars,
which crown the dark summit of the Palatine.
An aged palm-tree, which is supposed to have flourished
here from time immemorial, and may almost be reckoned a
natural antiquity, still throws its tropical shade in the court
of the convent. I once descended m)m these gardens into
the vineyard beneath them, to examine the ancient walls of
imknown Eoman ruins, which here surround and support
the precipitous banks of the Coelian HiU. Their date, and
author, and purpose, are alike unknown. The deep cavities
and recesses into which they are formed, are not easily refer-
rible to any known species of building.
Facing the Colosseum, there is an isolated fragment of
ruin, to which tradition has assigned the name of the Eos-
trum of Cicero, and from which, it is said, he harangued the
Eoman people. I scrambled up its broken walls, and stood
on the green platform at its simimit, merely because the
name of Cicero had attached to it a charm ; for there is no
probability that his voice ever poured forth its persuasive
eloquence here.
The Superior of this convent, with four hundred other
priests and friars, was sent to Corsica, and was imprisoned,
(as he said) during two years and a half, in a dungeon, upon
bread and water, tor refusing to take the oath of allegiance
to Bonaparte.
At the expiration of that period, he was liberated with his
companions from prison, but kept under strict surveillance ;
and only regaLned his liberty when the Pope returned, and
the French were expelled.
The conduct of these ecclesiastics will be censured or ap-
plauded, according to the views of those by whom they are
judged. This, however, I wiU observe, that their fidelity to
their banished and degraded master, through exile, poverty,
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BEYOTION OT THE CLEBGT. 225
and imprisonment, when, no hope of the re-establishment of
his power could actuate them, has something in it of sincerity
and disinterestedness, that would seem to place the reality
of these qualities above suspicion, — even although their
possessors are &iars.
VOL. II. Q
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BOXl.
LETTEELXXIX
MntAOLES.
The age of miracles I thouglit had passed, but I Have dis-
covered my mistake. "Within this little month three great
miracles have happened lq Some. The last took place yes-
terday, when all Itome crowded to the Capitol to see an
image of the Virgin opening her eyes. Unluckily, we were
in the country, and did not return m time to witness it ; for
as this miracle was thought a very improper one by the
higher powers, who would rather she had wmked at certain
practices which it is thought she had not only opened her
own eyes upon, but those of other people — she was carried
away, and certain priests, who are supposed to have been in
her confidence on this occasion, have been shut up in prison.
Two officers of the Q-uarda Mobile are also in custody in the
state-prison at the Castle San Angelo, for expressions which
implied no extraordinary admiration of the present state of
thmgs. It is so nearly impossible to get at the bottom of
anything in Bome, that both these disgraced military and
clergy may have given much more reason for their enthral-
ment than we hear of; but this very concealment of their
offences makes one rejoice in UviDg under a government, in
which the truth must be made known, and in which no man
can be shut up in a dungeon at the pleasure either of priests
or princes, without being tried and condemned by his feUow-
citizens. In this respect, things are neither better nor
worse here now, than m the time of the French, who shut
people up with quite as little ceremony, and still less lenity.
iSie last miracle was of a much more orthodox description.
The miraculous Madonna, in this case, opened her mouth
iostead of her eyes, and spoke to an old washerwoman, to
whom she imparted her discontent at being so much neg-
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THE EITAL MADOl^AS. 227
lected, and her chapel left in sueh a dirty and rainous con-
dition ; while so many other Madonnas, no better than she,
had theirs made as mie as hands could make them. The
Madonna spoke no more, but the old washerwoman proved a
very loquacious reporter of her wijshes and sentimentB. The
news of the miracle spread like wildfire ; thousands (I am
not exaggerating) may be seen every day CTowding to this
little old chapel, near St. John Lateran, about four in the
afternoon, the hour at which the Virgin addressed the washer-
woman ; it being supposed that this is her favourite time for
conversation ; but I have not heard that sho has made any
new observations. Not only the lower orders, but crowds of
well-dressed people, and handsome equipages of all sorts,
daily throng the door ; and the long green avenue that leads
under the walls to the Porta San Giovanni, instead of an
unbroken sohtude, now wears the appearance of a fair.
At the comer of every street, you stumble over a chair set
out with a white cloth, a little picture of the Madonna, and
a plate f<Hr collections to beautify her chapel. You are
assailed on all sides with Httle begging-boxes for the Ma-
donna's beautification ; and even the interests of the holy
Bouls in purgatory are forgotten, in the pious zeial to make
. her fine enough.
To see the luck of some Madonnas ! — Thus this Madonna,
who opened her mouth to one old washerwoman, has come to
great nonours and credit ; while the other, who opened her
eyes to hundreds, has fallen into great disgrace. One
Madonna is bom, I suppose, according to the proverb, with
a silver spoon in her mouth, and another with a pewter one.
But this IS by no means the whole of our miracles ; for, as if
one Madonna scorned to be outdone by another, there is an
old dirty cobwebby Virgin in the Pantheon, which has lately
begun to work miracles, and has drawn such crowds to her
shnne, that an unhappy stranger can scarcely get in to see
the building itself. It is probably by no means the only
miracle which its walls have witnessed. Italy seems always
to have been the land of superstition; and the Pagan miracles
that are upon record, at least equal the Eoman Catholic, both
in number and absurdly. Every page of Livy and Plutarch
abounds with them. JNot a year ever passed without two
q2
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228 BOHS.
or three oxen speaking, though we never hear any of their
sayings. Now, even a Madonna but rarely makes use of
her ton^e, and oxen have entirely given up talking. How-
ever, it 18 a different thing hearing nonsense that was cre-
dited ages ago, and seeing it before one's eyes : and when
I behold crowds flocking to kneel before these taUdng and
winking Madonnas, I cannot help asking myself if this is
really the nineteenth century ? One would have thought
there had been miracles enough of late in Eome to have
satisfied any reasonable people ; but the Pope and a detach-
ment of Cardinals are going about every day after dinner
in quest of more. They visit all the Madonnas in town, in
regular succession. They began with Santa Maria Maggiore,
who takes precedence of all the rest here, and they mil not
leave one imapplied to tiU they get what they want, — ^which
is rain; for the country, with the unexampled cold and
drought of the spring, is dried up, vegetation is pined and
withering; and tnere is but too much reason to oread that
the miseries which the poor have suffered during the last
dreadful year of scarcily, will be increased tenfold in the
next. Pestilence is already added to famine; the lower
orders are perishing by hundreds, of a low contagious fever,
brought on by want, and numbers have literaBy died of
hunger by the way-sides. This dreadful mortality at present
extends all over Italy, and the sufferings of the livmg are
still more cruel and neart-rending than the number of the
dead. You daily see human beings crawling on the dung-
hills, and feeding on the most loathsome garbage, to satisty
the cravings of nature. That this may occasionally be done
to call forth charity, is unquestionable ; but it is also done
when no eye is visibly near : and the extremity of misery, —
the ghastly famine that is written in the looks, cannot be
feigned. The fiedlure of those teeming harvests that usually
cover the earth, spreads among the improvident and over-
flowing population of this country", horrors of famine of which
you can nave no conception, llie dying and the dead sur-
round us on all sides ; the very streets are crowded with
sick, and the contagion of the fever is thought so virulent,
that a cordon of troops is drawn around the great hospital
of the Borgo San Spirito, to prevep^t co^^nunication with its
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ITAILAJBT HOSPITALS. 229
infected inmates. The medical treatment in this fever is
universally condemned by all the English physicians here ;
and the general management of the hospitals cannot be suffi-
ciently reprobated. W ant of medical skill, and want of care,
perhaps equally conduce to the remarkable mortality which
reigns in them ; but from the returns, it appears that forty-
six per cent, die at the Hospital of San Spirito at Eome ;
whereas at Paris the average is only seven per cent., and in
!Ekigland it seldom exceeds four !
With some few exceptions, I have observed throughout
Italy a want of cleanliness, and especially of ventilation, in
the hospitals, which is more unpardonable, because they are
built upon an immense scale; and yet the patients are
crowded together, while spacious wards are left unoccupied,
to save the paltiy expense of a few additional attendants.
Such at least was the reason repeatedly assigned to us for
this gross mismanagement. The bad effects of such heat and
confinement to the sick must be doubly prejudicial in this
climate.
It was oriffmally a trulv Italian idea, to erect a ereat
hospital for the recovery of health, in the very spot which,
£roni the days of the ancient Bomans to the present time,
has been the most noted for its unhealthiness. The Hospital
of the Spirito Santo stands in the worst region of the ma-
laria ; so that if the object had been to kill instead of cure
the patients, this should have been the place chosen for the
purpose. K the Hospital of the Incurables, which stands in
a very healthy situation, had been placed here, there might
have been some excuse for it, since it could scarcely be
regretted that the lives of those destined to hopeless suffer-
ings should be shortened. But even abandoned infants are
received and nurtured in sickness, at the Hospital of San
Spirito ; and its benefits, such as they are, are open to all
ages, sexes, and nations.
I remember at Morence, in driving about the town, being
struck with the extraordinary appearance of an hospital,
entirely open to the street, at one end, from top to bottom,
and divided from it only by iron bars, so that the passengers
had a fiiU view of all the patients ia their becfe ; and of
every operation, of whatever nature, which went on during
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280 fiOHE.
eickness ; while the poor invalids must have been distracted
with the incessant rattle of the wheels. Some of the patients
who were up, were talking to their acquaintance without the
grate ; so that diseases neyer could hare a finer opportunity
of spreading. The want of decency, as well as common sense
and humani^, in this arrangement, is too obvious to require
comment. I have, however, only been as yet one day of my
life in Florence, and consequently know nothing of the
reasons for this strange system, — ^if reasons there be.
But to return to tne miracles, from which I have wan-
dered so far. I understand that not one happened during
the whole reign of the French, and that it was not until the
Streets were purified with lustrations of holy water, on the
return of the rontiff, that they began to operate again.
Private miracles, indeed, affecting individuals, go on quite
commonly every day, without exciting the smallest attention.
These generally consist in procuring prises in the lotteiy,
curing diseases, and casting out devils.
The mode of effecting this last description of miracle was
communicated to me the other day by an Abate here ; and,
as I think it extremely curious, I shall relate it to you.
It seems that a certain friar had preached a sermon during
Lent, upon the state of the man mentioned in Scripture
possessed with seven devils, with so much eloquence and
imction, that a simple countryman who heard him, went
home, and became conviaced that these seven devils had got
possession of him. The idea haunted his mind, and sub-
jected him to the most dreadful terrws, till, unable to bear
his sufferings, he unbosomed himself to his ghostly father,
and asked his counsel. The fisither, who had some smattering
of science, bethought himself at last of a way to rid the
honest man of his devils. He told him it would be neces-
sary to combat with the devils singly ; aad on a day ap-
pointed, when the poor man came with a sum of money to
serve as a bait for the devil — without which the good father
had forewarned him no devil could ever be dislodged — he
bound, a chain connected with an electrical machine in an
adjoining chamber, round his body — ^lest, m he said, the
devil should fly away with him — ^and having warned him
that the shock would be terrible when the de^ went out of
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STTPEBSTITIOB'. 231
him, lie left him praying devoutly before an image of the
Madonna, and after some time, gave him a pretty smart
shock, at which the poor wretch fell insensible on the floor
firom terror. As soon as he recovered, however, he protested
that he had seen the devil fly away out of his mouth, breath-
ing blue flames and sulphur, and that he felt himself greatly
relieved. Seven electrical shocks, at due intervals, having
extracted seven sums of money from him together with the
seven devils, the man was cured, and a great miracle per-
formed.
To us this transaction seemed a notable piece of credulous
superstition on the one hand, and fraudulent knavery on the
other ; but to our friend the Abate, it only seemed an iQge-
nious device to cure of his fears a simpleton, over whose
mind reason could have no power; as the physician cured
the ladv who fancied she had a nest of live earwigs in her
stomach, not by arguing with her on the absurdity of such
a notion, but by showing her that an earwig was killed with
a single drop of oil, and making her swallow a quantity of
it. But with respect to the man and his devils, I would ask,
why inspire superstitious terrors to conquer them by deceit,
and why make him pay so much money?
Yet this is nothing to other thiQgs that daily happen.
Woidd you believe that there has actuallv been in E-ome a
trial for witchcraft ? — a grave formal trial for witchcraft, in
the nineteenth century ! I began to think I must be mis-
taken, and that the world had been pushed back about three
hundred years. But it is even so.
There is certainly more superstition in the south of Italy
than the north, because there is more ignorance. In Milan,
and in most of the cities of Lombardy, it is rapidly disap- .
pearing with the diffusion of knowledge and science. Yet
Florence, enlightened as she is, has a reasonable share ; and
miracles, and miraculous Madonnas, abound nearly as much
in Tuscany as in the States of the Church, as I have good
reason to know. Even the liquefaction of St. Januarius's
blood, — ^which is generally quoted as the comhle of supersti-
tion, is not without its parallel. At Mantua, a bottle of the
blood of Christ is Uquefied every year, to the great edifi-
cation of the compatriots of Virgil, The bottle contaioing
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232 BOi^OB.
this real blood of Christ was dug up at Mantua in a box,
about two centuries a^o, with a written assurance that it bad
been deposited there by a St. Longinus, a Boman centurion,
who witnessed the crucifixion, and became conyerted, and
ran awaj &om Judaea to Mantua with this bottle of blood ;
and after lying sixteen centuries in the ground, the box, the
writing, the bottle and the blood, were as fresh as if placed
there only the day before !
But I might write a book of miracles, were I to relate
the hundredth part of all that take place erery year — nay,
every day, in Italy. So I have done.
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THX BLESSIKO OF A^IITIMALS.
LETTEE LXXX.
Elessiitg of the Hobses — Festas — ^Itaiiak
MAmfEBS.
"We were present to-day at one of the most ridiculous
tscenes I ever witnessed, even in this country. It was St.
Anthony's blessing of the Horses, which began on that
saint's day, and lasts for a week ; but as this was Vkfestone^
I rather unagine we saw it in its full glory. "We orme to
the church of the saint, near Santa Maria Maggiore, and
could scarcely make our way through the streets, from the
multitudes of horses, mules, asses, oxen, cows, sheep, soats,
and dogs, which were journeying along to the place of Dene-
diction ; their heads, tails, and necks, decorated with bits of
coloured riband and other finery, on this their unconscious
gala-day. The saint's benediction, though nominally con-
fined to horses, is equally efficacious, and equally bestowed
upon all quadrupeds ; and I believe there is scarcely a brute
in Eome, or the neighbourhood, that has not participated
in it.
An immense crowd were assembled in the wide open
space in front of the church, and from the number of beasts
and men, it looked exactly liko a cattle-fair. At the door
stood the blessing priest, dressed in his robes, and wielding
a brush in his hand, which he continually dipped into a
huge bucket of holy water that stood near him, and spirted
at the animals as they came up, in unremitting succession,
taking off his little skuU-cap, and muttering every time,—
'* IPer mtercessionem heaii Antonii Abatis, h(BC ammalia libe^
rcmtur a malts, in nomine Fatris et Mlii et Spiritus Sancti. —
Amenr
The poor priest had such hard work in blessing, that he
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234 noHB.
was quite exhausted and panting, and his round face looked
fieiy red with his exertions. The rider, or driver of the
creature, always gave some piece of money, larger or smaller,
in proportion to his means or generosily, and received an
engravms of the saint and a little metallic cross ; however,
all animcds might be blessed gratis.
Several weU-dressed people, in very handsome equipages,
attended with outriders in splendid liveries, drove up while
we were there, and sat uncovered till the benediction was
given. Then, having paid what they thought fit, they drove
oSy and made way for others.
One adventure happened, which afforded us some amuse-
ment. A countryman having got a Messing on his beast,
putting his whole trust in its power, set off from the church-
door at a grand gallop), and had scarcelv cleared a hundred
yards, before the ungainly animal tumbled down with him,
and over its head he rolled into the dirt. He soon got up,
however, and shook himself^ and so did the horse, without
either seeming to be much the worse. The priest seemed
not a whit out of countenance at this ; and some of the
standers-by exclaimed, with laudable stead&stness of faith,
'^ that but for the blessing, they might have broken their
necks,"
San Antonio must get very rich with this traffic. I can-
not omit mentioniag, however, that the priest, who very
civilly presented us with some of the prints and crosses of
San Antonio, could not be prevailed on to accept of any
remuneration.
There is a peculiar and more solemn sort of blessing,
given to two lambs, on the 21st of January, at the Church of
Sta. Agnese ftiori le mwra, from the sainted fleeces of which
are manufiactured, I believe bv the hands of nuns, two holy
mantles, called palli; which the Pope presents to the
Archbishops, as his principal shepherds. It is incredible
the sums of money that used to be given in former days
for the least scrap of these precious garments, — ^but times
are sadly changed, as an old priest pathetically observed
to me.
They still, however, carry a remnant of the Virgin Mary's
own nuptial veil annually in solemn procession to the
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OBSEBTAITCE OP H0LIDAT8. 235
Cliiipch of Santa Maria del Popolo, where it is still adored ;
and the marriage of Christ and St. Catherine is still cele-
brated with great pomp, on the anniyersary of their wed-
ding-day, the 29th of January, at the Church of Santa
Maria sopra Minerra, and held as a grand Festa. But the
^esta which pleased me the most was that of the children.
On the eve of Twelfth-Day, the Oratwre (the children), with
trembling mingled with hope, anticipate a midnight visit
from a mghtfdi old woman, called the Befcma (an obvious
corruption of H^fania, the Epiphany), for whom they
always take care to leave some portion of their supper,
lest she should eat them up ; and when they go to bed,
they suspend upon the back of a chair a stocking, to receive
her expected gifts. This receptacle is always found in the
morning to contain some sweet things, or other welcome
presents, — ^which, I need scarcely say, are provided by the
mother or the nurse.
There is here a dressed up wooden figure of La Befana,
sufficiently hideous, — ^the bugbear of all naughty girls and
boys.
On the eve of the Epiphany, the lighted up Piazza di
Sant' Eustachio (the firuit-market) is a very pretty sight, —
but the happiness of the cratwre the next morning is a still
more delightful one.
Nothing can exceed the strictness with which the obser-
vance of the Eestas is enforced in Eome. I have seen a
printed proclamation which was circulated on the Pope's
return, inculcating, in the strongest terms, this duty so
long comparatively neglected, of doing nothing on holiclays ;
and denouncing heavy penalties against the disobedient.
Idleness, this paramount obligation, thus enjoined by the
religion and laws, is, besides, too consonant to the dispo-
sition of the people to be disobeyed; and, accordingly, there
are upwards oi seventy Festas in the year, besides the
hebdomadal one of Sunday, in which the sin of being guilty
of any useful employment, or, indeed, any employment at
all, is cautiously avoided by the Romans, The manner in
which these Festas are spent is, indeed, highly characteristic
of the people.
After mass the lower orders throng the streets in a state
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236 BOHi.
of complete apathetic yacuity of mind and bodilj inertion.
You see the strange spectacle of a crowd at rest, content
with the delight of listless indolence, and seeming to £eel
that exertion is positive evil — ^they neither talk, walk, act,
think, sing, dance, smoke, nor play. With a loose coat or
cloak folded round them, they stand lounging about, bask-
ing in the sun, or He doggishly on the ground — solitary,
though in a crowd, — and grave, though without thought.
I have seen the Tuscan peasants dance merrily to the
bagpipe, and the Neapolitan lazzaroni sing at evening to
'^ the light guitar," or dance in rags on the pavement of the
Chiaja. I have heard that child of pleasure, the happy
Venetian, forgetful of all his wrongs and sorrows, carol
through the soft summer night the melodies that endear to
him his amphibious countiy; but I have rarely seen the
Boman populace do anything.
Dancmg publicly on Sundays is not, indeed, allowed at
Bome, any more tnan plays or operas ; but there are many
Festas when they might dance, and do not ; nor do they
resort to music, or any sort of amusement or occupation for
pleasure.
The only active diversion of the common people here, is
one I scarcely know how to " name to oars pohte." It is
a sort of chase — a hunting of heads — ^not for ideas, but for
things much more tangible and abundant. You see them
eagerly engaged in this pursuit on a Sunday, or Festa,
sitting at their doors or windows, or in the open streets ;
often three, one above another, the middle one at once
hunting and being hunted. I remember the Portuguese,
even those of the higher orders, used to follow the same
sport.
The middle classes dawdle about the streets, or the pro-
menade on the Trinita de' Monti, in a dull, torpified sort
of state, not seeming to snail along with any sensation or
hope of enjoyment, but because they cannot tell what else
to do with themselves.
The women of this shopkeeper class are sometimes dressed
most ludicrously fine : satin gowns of all colours, and often
white, trailing about the dM^ streets, and thin pink or
yellow slippers, sticking fast m the mud ; their necks, and
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nrDOUENCE OF THE EOMANS. 237
often tlieir heads bare. The ladies of Eome, and indeed
throiigliout Italy (by ladies, I mean exclusively the nobil-
ity), never walk, never ride on horseback, and never move
but in a carriage. Indeed, the men rarely walk, and still
more rarely ride. The only time I ever remember seeing a
Eoman nobleman on horseback, he tumbled off.
The country around Borne, perhaps abounds more in
game than any other part of the civilized world, yet no
Iloman is ever seen to engage in any description of field-
sports. Many of the English gentlemen have gone from
hence to the mountains, to chase the wild boar ; but the
Eomans never hunt now. The days when even the distant
echoes of the lake of Bolsena rang with the horns of Leo X.
and his jovial Cardinals, are indeed gone by ; and though
such diversions may not be very becoming in a Pope, they
are very proper for a prince.
But the Eoman nobility hunt not, shoot not, read not,
write not, think not. — What then do they do ? — ^Why —
-through the dull nnyaried round of life,
They keep the joyless tenor of their way.**
Sunk in indolence, they perhaps dawdle through the fore-
noon with their damayhke duteous cavalieri serventi; and
in the afternoon, daily do these unfortunates meander up
and down the Corso in their carriages, for two mortal hours,
just before dark, when the evening is setting in cold and
gloomy. There is some sense in this in summer, but none,
that 1 can discover, in the dead of winter. I have often
seen young Italian noblemen performing this dowager-like
airing, shut up alone in a coach. On Festas, not only all
the nobles who have carriages, but all the bourgeois who
can hire them for the occasion, drive up and down the Corso,
at this fashionable hour, dressed, of course, as fine as they
can make themselves; for the sole diversion must consist
in seeing and in being seen, — in furtherance of which
laudable end they generally appear in open carriages, in
defiance of the cold winter tramontana* and wear their
heads and necks uncovered. Often when I have been
* The north-west wind, which blows, as its name implies, from the
Alps. It is the mitigated hue of Switzerland.
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238 BOHX.
BUvering in mj furs, I have seen the Boman beSles at
night-fall sitting motionless in open carriages, exposed to
the cutting bhut, in this open drawing-room costume. A
drawing-room costume, however, here it is not ; for, in the
evening conversazione, a large bonnet is the usual head-
dress, and it often appears with an exposed neck. In
general, indeed, it is only in the grand accctdemie of muaic
or dancing, which are equivalent to our private balls and
concerts, that the sWle of evening dress to which we are
habitually used in TJnglaud is seen. But these grand en*
tertaiiunents are rare, and even the humbler conversazione
is far &om common ; so that in a town where there is no
theatre, or place of public amusement, except during the
Carnival, and where dmner and supper parties are unknown,
nothing can be conceived more unsocial, or more ghomik^
domestic, than the habits of the nobility of Bome.
It is more certain, that before the spoliations and heavy
contributions arbitrarily levied upon them by the Erendi,
by which numbers of ancient families were reduced to com-
plete beggary, and almost aU to comparative indigence,
their lives were much gayer, and their intercourse, both
with each other and with strangers, much more frequent
and unconstrained. To this, not only the Eomans them-
selves, but many of our English friends who have been at
!Bome at different periods (from fourteen to thirty years
back), and are now revisiting it, bear witness. It certainly
seems strange, that even poverty should put an end to
society that costs nothing ; for in the few Iloman conver-
versazioni that still remain (the wrecks of happier days),
no refreshment whatever, not even a glass of eau sucree^ is
ever offered. But the pomp of long trains of liveried
menials; without which the proud Eoman will not open hia
house, few can boast, and many have no houses to open.
Their palaces are let to strangers, conveii^d into shops
or cafes, half shut up, or wholly abandoned. In general,
the poor duke, count, or marquis, — ^the poorest denizen of
his own palace, — inhabits some mean apartment in the
attics, among obscurity, dirt, pride, penury, and wretched-
ness.
Even among those noble families whose once princely
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SOCIETY AT BOMS.
revenues, however dnainished, are still considerable, not
even the outward semblance of cordiaHtj, or the hoUowness
of the courtesies of polished life, seems to exist ; but cold
repulsive distrust and dislike are openly manifested.
Ancient feuds and jealousies seem to have abated nothing
of their bitterness ; and in the recent changes and revolu*
tions, new ones have been engendered. £eal or imaginary
wrongs, political differences, private pique and quarrels,
envy, jealousy, and suspicion, have combined to alienate
these few &om each other.
Almost the only Boman house now which is regularly
XI for a conversazione in the old style, and to wmch all
have been introduced have a general invitation, is that
of the Duchess di Fiano, a woman of considerable spirit and
talent, who is wise enough not to forego the pleasures of
society, because she has lost those of opulence. She re-
ceives company on the evenings of the two ordinary weekly
Festas, Sunday and Thursday. Thursday, being before
these two days of mortification (Friday and Saturday), is
considered a fsatma ; but Sunday, being after them, is a
grand Eesta.
This lady contrives to make her parties tolerably pleasant,
without music, dancing, cards, books, prints, amusements,
or refreshments of any sort. It is liteiaUy a cotweraazione ;
for there is nothing else to be had, and not always even
that. Whether it is from the perversitv of human nature,
that people are always less inclined to what thiy are obliged
to do, or not, I cannot say, but sometimes the conversation
languishes, and I have serious apprehensions that we shall
aU begin to yawn in each other's fsices. One advantage is,
that one need never stay above ten minutes, if it should
wear this dull aspect, but drive off in search of something
better. Pew Eomans are to be seen at these parties, but
all the ambassadors and distinguished foreigners of all coun-
tries. Of late there has been a great intermixture of
English.
Thepensieri ttretH are certainly the ruling principle of
Italian society. The set bows and unmeaning compliments,
the form and parade, the restraint, the finesse, the total
want of confidence, and of the fiow of nature and feeling,
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240 BOHE.
take from society its true charm, and render it a scene
where you perceive at once that everybody is acting a
part.
The want of hospitality is also to an Englishman a strik-
ing picture of Italian character. However intimate you
may he with an Italian, however warm the regard he pro-
fesses for you, however often — ^if he haa been a traveller —
he may have been entertained at your table in England, he
never dreams of asking you to his. It is common to hear
people say, that *' Engl^hmen always think there can be no
society without eating and drinking." But it is not the
mere want of a dinner that we miss ; it is the absence of
those social feelings, of that hospitable spirit, of all those
kindly overflowings of our nature, that lead us to open oup
tables, our houses, and our hearts, to the Mends we love ;
and that makes the intercourse with Italians inupid and
distasteful to an Englishman.
Excepting the English, the foreign ambassadors are the
only people in Eome who have dinner-parties, and they give
very good entertainments,
Torlonia — ^now Duke Torlonia — ^the banker, has a weekly
party, something like an English rout ; and music and gamb-
ling are there the amusements.
Twice a-week, the feshionable world lounge through the
rooms of the French ambassador. Count Blacas. There is
a gaming-table for those who like to play, and ices for those
who like to eiffc, and scandal for those who like to talk. But
the best parties in Borne are given by a lady whose learn-
ing and talents would place her in the first class in any
country, and who perhaps, in habits and character, is more
Italian than British. I mean the Duchess of Devonshire.
The mass of English visitors give chiefly to the English
such parties at Eome as they would give in London, only
on a smaller, duller, meaner scale. At these there are few
foreigners, excepting a certain Cardinal, who goes every-
where, and is a great flirt of the English ladies, and per-
haps some half dozen of different nations besides.
Occasionally, the Austrian, Neapolitan, Portuguese, and
French ambassadors, open their houses for a grand ricevi-
mentOf or accademia of music, or dancing, and these are at-
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BOMAir SOCIETT. 241
tended by many of the Eoman nobles and Cardinals. But
at the first sound of the dance, the red-logged race must
yanish, like evil spirits at the crowing of the cock. One
great cause of the stagnation of society in Borne, is evidently
the want of the lead and impulse of its head. A court
which has its fetes in the church, instead of the drawing-
room, can be no promoter of gaiety ; and the princely priests,
who form its members, can now give no entertainments,
because they can now receive no ladies. Besides, where
ladies do not reign, the spirit of society is wanting.
I have, however, spent many delightful hours in the se-
lect circles of those who neither derive their consideration
firom rank nor fortune ; and where I have rarely seen any
English &^ except my own. I speak of Eoman fomiUes,
as well as foreigners.
Lucien Buonaparte receives, in the evening, in his own
family circle, without form, a select few, who have been pai>
ticularly presented to him ; and those who have once felt
the charm of that chosen society, will not easily relinquish
it. His sister, the Princess Pauline, sees only her particu-
lar friends; and perhaps more gentlemen than laaies are
included among them.
Eome, from its peculiar attractions, must always be the
chosen resort of the most enlightened strangers, as it is the
permanent residence of many men of the first genius of the
age. It therefore possesses, to a certain degree, some of
the best elements of society ; and yet it must be owned,
that neither Borne, nor any part of Italy, can boast the
splendour or brilliancy of the first circles of London, or
even of Paris. The tone of Fashion, fortune, high-bred ease,
and polished gaiety, is wanting. The framing of the pic-
ture IS not good.
A traveller always exposes himself to suspicion, who cen-
sures the society of the country which he visits. Even by
his own countiymen he is thought an illiberal and preju-
diced— or, at best, an incompetent judge. Whereas, he who
praises, obtains at an easy rate, a reputation for candour,
liberality, and discernment. Fully sensible of this, and of
the invidious nature of the office 1 am undertaking, I still
must, if I am to speak at all, speak what I think. "We nar
VOL. II. E
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242 ROME.
turally, wherever we go, compare the state of society and
maimers to those of our own country, and that oomparison,
I must say, tends much to the disadyantage of Italy.
From the false inferences and egregious misconceptions
into which many enlightened foreigners have &llen in judg-
ing of English manners, I feel considerable diffidence in
censuring those of other countries; but prolonged expe-
rience, and, I think, impartial observation, have only shown
me, in more glaring colours, the general corruption of
manners, and contempt of moral duties, which reign in this
country. I have endeavoured to divest myself of my
EngHsh prejudices, but there are some no l&glishwonaan
can wish to get rid of. Accustomed, from our earliest
infancy, to all the refinements of social life, to delicacy of
sentiment, propriety of conduct, and a high sense of moral
rectitude, their violation shocks our habits, our principles,
and even our taste. It seems to me that the low standard
of morals here degrades manners alsp.
In the manners and habits, in the very air of the Italian
ladies, there is a want of elegance and delicacy. A certain
grossness and vulgarity of mind seem to adhere to them in
all they do and say. They encourage liberties of speech
which would offend and disgust our countrywomen ; and the
strain of imiform gallantry, hyperbolical flattery, and un-
adulterated nonsense of the worst description, in which the
men usually address them, and which they seem to like and
expect, is a very decisive proof of the difference between the
female character here and in England. Until a very decided
change take place in that of the Italian women, there can be
no improvement in the society at large ; and I look upon
the system of cavaUeri serventi to be destructive of the
morals, the usefulness, and the respectability of the female
character.
It is true, that it is considered necessary here, if a lady
visit at all, that she should be attended by her eavaliere
gervente; and if her husband should escort her, she would
inevitably be laughed at, — ^but who are the imposers of this
necessity, and who the raisers of the Lmgn? It is the
ladies themselves. The cause of this vile system may be
easily found in tiie s^ more odious one of marriages 1>eing
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ITALIAN lOJtBIAGES. 243
made an afiaar of mere conyenience, — a bargain transacted
by the parents or guardians ; the inclinations of the parties
thus disposed of, rarely, if ever, beiBg consulted. It some-
times happens that' they are betrothed in infancy; and
sometimes the whole treaty is concluded without their even
meeting. I know an instance in which the sposa was intro-
duced to her future lord and master, for the first time, the
day before the nuptial ceremony took place. Nor is it only
young people dependent upon the will of their parents, who
are thus tied together for life. A yoimg nobleman of my
acquaintance, completely his own master, and possessed of a
reasonable share of sense, and abundance of self-will about
other things, lately passively took a woman whom his Mends
singled out for mm as a suitable match, nerer dreaming of
choosing for himself.
A man ma^ fall in love and marry, in Italy, but it is a
rare occurrence. Both sexes genially marry without love,
and love without manying. With sucn unions, it is evident
there cannot be much domestic happiness. The lady, sooner
or later, looks out for a cavaUere servente. This privilege,
indeed, is not, as has been pretended, stipulated in the
marriage-contract, for that would be cjuite unnecessary, — ^no
husband ever dreams of opposing this just right ; and if he
did, he would be exposed to univCTsal derision. In general,
he seems quite reconciled to it, and the lady, the cavaliere,
and the husband, harmoniously form what a witty friend of
mine once called an eqmlatero tnangolo. The only thing
that surprises me in Italy is, that there ever should be such
a thing as a husband at all. Such things are, however, and
the poor man often consoles himself by choosing a lady to
his own taste, and becoming the ca/oaUere servente of some
other man's wife ; or, dislilong the shackles of this servitude,
he amuses himself with more general gallantry, or more
varied intrigues. Indeed, if the husband's lot be hard, that
of the cavaliere servente is harder siill. How the Italian
ladies get any man to submit to it, is to me incompre-
hensible. I am certain no Englishman could be made into
one for a single week, by any art or contrivance. These
unfortunate creatures must submit to all their mistress's
humours, and obey all h^ commands, — ^run up and down
B 2
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244 lioxn,
wherever she directs them, tie her shoe, cany her kp-dog or
pocket-handkerchief, flirt her fen, and flatter her vanity ; be
constant in their attendance on her morning toilet, her
evening airing, and her nightly opera. He must retire
before dinner, — ^for she and her caro sposo dine tete-a-tete,
and he must return after. Sometimes one lady has two or
three of these poor animals, whom she distinguishes by
different degrees of favour, but in general one is the stated
allowance; and constancy to her cavaliere is considered
highly praiseworthy, though attachment to her husband is
only laughed at ; I am serious in asserting that it is laughed
at, — I mean, that a woman who has no cavaliere servente at
all, and makes her husband her companion and protector, is
despised and ridiculed by aU her female acquaintance. The
instances are indeed rare.
I am, however, &r from intending to insinuate that th(^
connexion between a lady and her. cavaliere servente is
always, or even generally, of a criminal nature. But I will
say, that nobody can prove that it is innocent. "We may
charitably believe that she is virtuous ; but we cannot feel
the same certainty of the puriijr of her character as we do
of that of an Englishwoman, who has no such connexion.
The Mr Italian admits him at all hours, constantly asso-
ciates with him, exacts unremitting attention from hun, and
lays herself under daily, and often pecuniary, obligations to
him. She may be innocent ; but we also feel it is possible
she may not. Yet, granting the connexion, to be purely
platonic, is it likely to be conducive to domestic happiness,
or female respectability, that a woman should allow her
time, thoughts, and affections, to be more devoted to her
lover than her husband ; that she should take more pains to
please him, and live more in his society ? or, grantmg him
not to be her lover, but only her friend, is it desirable
that she should have a better and dearer friend than her
husband ? I will not say that the system of cavalieri ser^
venti is universal. There is no rule without exceptions.
But after a two years' residence in Italy, and a very general
acquaintance among the Italians, I have known very few
without them; except brides, who as yet have not chosen
them, or aged ladies, who have lost them. In the past,
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DEFHATED STATE OF MOBALS. 245
present, or future tense, awalieri serventi are common to
them all.
But whatever may he our opinion of the nature of this
connexion, and of the virtue of the fair Italians, that of
their own countrymen, as well as of aU the foreigners of all
nations whom I have heard speak of them, is undeviating
as to their general frailty. Indeed, to do them justice, the
very pretence of virtue is often wanting. Such is the
general toleration of vice, that no extremes of licentiousness,
however open, — ^no amours, however numerous or notorious,
— ever, in this country, exclude a woman from the society in
which her rank entitles her to move.
In the other sex it is the same. The most dishonourahlo
and contemptihle conduct a man can he guilty of, will not
banish him from his place in society. The countenance
thus given to unhlushmg |)roflieacy, and the indifference,
perhaps the sneers, with which virtue is received, is one of
the most painfully convincing proofs of the depraved state
of morals.
The Italian noblemen, for the most part, are ill-educated,
ignorant, and illiterate. I could give some curious proofs
of this, but J will content myself with mentioning one,
which I witnessed the other night at the Opera, when half a
dozen dukes, marquesses, and counts, from different parts of
Italy, who were in the box with us, began disputing whether
Peru, which happened to be the scene of the piece, was in
the East Indies, in Africa, or, as one of them, for a wonder,
was inclined to think — ^in America !
It is not, however, so much their want of knowledge, as
their want of principle, that renders them despicable. No
ennobling pursuit, no honourable end of existence, gives its
useful stimulus to their lives, or energy, dignity, and con-
sistency, to their characters. In little things as well as
great, their conduct is mean. At a select ball given by the
King of Naples in the 'Rojsl Palace, I remember seeing
nunmers of the pincipal Neapolitan nobihtv who made it
their sole occupation to stand beside the tables of refresh-
ments, and pocket the cakes and sweetmeats by large
handfiils, as fast as the servants brought them. Their
dresses, for it was a fancy-dress ball, seemed to be com-
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246 BOUE.
posed of large sacks, from the quaatdty which they con-
tained.
In Sicilj, at the British mess-table, some Mends of ours
were eje-witnesses to the fact of the silver spoons being
pocketed by two Sicilian noblemen, who dined there by
myitation, and this circumstance happened more than
once.
I might easily multiply instao^es, but I will only add,
that, in two cases which came under my own knowledge
at Naples, two noblemen of the first consideration there,
cheated two English Mends of ours, to whom they had let
a part of their houses, ia the most dishonourable manner.
One of them, afber letting his rooms, by a written agree-
ment, on the same terms as those on which the preening
occupier had rented them, pledged his solemn word of
honour that he had received firom him a much higher price
than, on investigation, it was proved to be ; and the other,
with whom the agreement was verbal, repeatedly sent back
the proffered monthly payments, expressing a wish to receive
it aU when our friend quitted his house ; at which time he
demanded double the stipulated sum, and confirmed his
assertion on oath. Anything may be proved at Naples,
for witnesses regularly attend the courts to be hired to
swear to any fact; and our Mend was obliged to pay this
iniquitous demand.
Another Italian nobleman swindled one of our country-
men out of a large sum of money, in a still more dishonour-
able way; and though, notwithstanding the frequent in-
stances I have seen of them, I would stiQ hope that such
instances and such characters are not common, yet the hct
of these men, and such as these, being received into society,
is a proof of that extreme laxity of morals, that want of high
feelings of honour, and that lamentable toleration of vice,
which I have already noticed. In England, afber such con-
duct, would men be received into society at all ; or, indeed,
could England produce men of birth and family capable of
such conduct ?
I know, however, some Italian noblemen incapable of a
dishonourable action, and perfect gentlemen, botn in man-
ners and mind ; but I know very few who are not Mvolous
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THE MEDICAL PBOPESSIOIT. 247
and dissipated^ to the neglect of private duties and moral
restraints.
One great defect in the constitution of society on the
continent, is the want of the order of commons, that middle
rank which links together by insensible gradations the high
and the low, and di&ses propriety, cultivation, and honour*
able ambition through all. From the want of this, the
privilege of nobility is tenaciously preserved, and injudi-
ciously extended. Every son of a count is also a count, and
all his son's sons are counts also. These nobles follow no
plebeian profession; the church and the army alone are
open to them; there is no navy; commerce, the source of
the wealth and greatness of Italy, is extinct ; or, at least,
v^chat remains, is generally carried on by foreigners, never
by native nobles. Bankers sometimes become noblemen,
but noblemen seldom become bankers.
Medicine is not considered the profession of a gentleman,
and is most injudiciously despised : for common sense would
surely dictate, that those to whom we entrust our life and
health, should have every advantage of education, character,
and respectability; and that such an office should not be
filled by men of low birth, limited means, and dubious repu-
tation. In small towns, the physician is chosen by the cor-
poration, firom whom he receives a small salary, and his
patients pay him nothing ; though it is customary to send
him a smaU annual present- If discontented with their own,
they are at Ml liberty to have the physician of any neigh-
bouring town, whom then they must remunerate; and as
there is a hope of such employments, and of being chosen to
fill a more lucrative situation, or condotta, as it is called, the
spur of interest is not wanting. In capitals, of course,
every practitioner sets up for himself, and all have a train of
young pupils, who, like G-il Bias and Doctor Sangrado, are
taught to kill according to their master's recipe; and in
due season these tyros are generally elected physicians to
country places, — or go in condotta, as they call it — unless
they choose to remain in the metropolis, i do not mean to
say that there are not men of great medical skill and science
in Italy, but — ^I speak fix)m the information of better judges
than myself-— the general standard is far below tlmt of
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248 BOMB.
England ; nor is the profession at all pursued by the first
classes.
Law is much more respected, and consequently more
respectable than medicine. Eveij small town always elects
it&podestay who is changed trienniaUy, lest he should imbibe
pamalities.
Thus debarred by custom, &om useful and respectable
professions, the younger sons, and the whole numerous race
of poor nobles in Italy, have often recourse for subsistence
to a state of the most humiliating servility and dependence,
to fawning, flattery, and cavaHen^ervenH-abiip, — and to arts
and employments, I am afraid, even worse than these.
There is a lamentable want of true dignity and of proper
pride among the Italian nobles. They "will not practise
useful employments; but too often stoop to base actions.
Counts, in fall dress, often come to you a-begging; and
Marcheses, with lace veils and splendid necklaces, will
thankfully accept half-a-crown. A woman dressed very ex-
pensively begged of us the other day in the streets, and we
nave had several visits &om men of rank, soliciting charity.
It may be said of them, that " they cannot dig, but to beg
they are not ashamed.**
Generally speaking, the fair Italians are certainly not
women of cultivated minds, or fine accomplishments. They
are occupied with pursuits of the most puerile vanity ; they
carry their passion for dress to the most ruinous extrava-
gance, and are victims of languor, indolence, and ennui.
The Neapolitan ladies are more addicted to gambling than
the Eomans ; though there are some here entirely given up
to it, and on whose countenances I read, at the nightly faro
table, the deadly passion of their souls.
The Italian ladies scarcehr ever nurse their children, or
attend to their education. The boys are instructed at home
by some domestic chaplain, or placed in public seminaries.
The girls are either brought up at home, where they have
no proper governess — and their mothers are seldom qua-
lified, and still more rarely disposed to ftdfil the office ; or
else they are educated in convents by nuns, who are too
often ignorant, prejudiced, and bigoted, and perhaps less
'^^ed for the important task of forming the female charao-
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ITALIAN WOMEBT. 249
ter than any other class of women : they escape from this
fjloomy prison to the world, without having formed a taste
or any rational pursuits or domestic pleasures ; are married
to some man chosen for them by their parents, and to whom
they must consequently be indifferent; — and what better
can be expected from them ?
The exclusion of young unmarried women from society
in this couniry, deprives it of one of its greatest charms.
I am ready, indeed, to own, that too many young ladies,
just come out, weigh at times somewhat heavily on a party
in our own country; but conceive what a blank the ab-
sence of the whole would make, and you will better un-
derstand the variety, and interest, and animation they give
to it! -
Though the fair sex in this coimtry are generally ex-
tremely ignorant, there are certainly many very learned
women in Italy; so learned, that here, where there is no
literary Salic law, the chairs in the university have often,
both in past and present times, been filled by female pro-
fessors. Signora Tambroni, late professor of Greek in the
university of Bologna, only died within these few months,
though she retired from her situation a few years ago ; nor
was she less remarkable for her piety and excellence than
for her uncommon attainments.
"With a few bright exceptions, however, it unfortunately
happens, that the class of literary women in Italy are too
violently Mteraij. The blues are too deep a blue. They
are either wholly unlearned, or overpoweringly learned.
A taste for hterature is not generally diffused and inter-
mingled with other pursuits and pleasures, as in England ;
it is confined to a few, and reigns m them without control.
Neither does the love of letters exclude the love of adula-
tion. Their vanity is of a different cast, but not less in-
satiable than that of the other fair Italians. They entertain
you too much with talking of their works, or repeating their
ovm compositions ; and their houses are generally infested
by a herd of male scribblers, who make mrge demands on
the patience and applause of their auditors, by reading or
recitmg their various works in verse or prose ; and bepraise
each other, that they may be praised themselves.
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250 BO^IE.
I liaye spoken, somewhat too mncli at length, perliaps, on
the character of the higher classes ; and I am sony I eannot
say much for the morab of the middle and lower ranks,
among whom truth, honesty, and indizstry, are rare and
little prized. They will cheat if they can, and they some-
times take more pains to accomplish this than would have
enabled them to gain far more by fair-dealing. When
detected in falsehood and imposition, they show a wonderful
degree of coolness and carelessness^ I have met with
honest and excellent Italians in all ranks ; but I must say,
knavery, meanness, and profligacy, are far more common.
The venality of the people of Bome is, however, pro-
verbial, even in Italy. It is a common saying, that a
Eoman * venderehbe il sole per cinque 'paoli^ * would sell the
sun itself for two-pence.'
Their indolence, however, is, to an Englishman, the most
extraordinary feature of their character. I have frequently,
in asking for goods at a shop in Eome, been answered with
a drawlnig *^non c'e,' even when I saw them before my
eyes; and once was actually told they were too high to
reach ! Nay, a shoemaker, after getting through the laboup
of taking my measure, resigned my future custom, rather
than take the shoes home at the distance of two streets.
Another, three months ago, agreed to make me two pairs,
and still continues to promise them ' next week.'
The women of these classes are indolent, useless, and
vaiQ. They never seem employed about domestic cares ; in
fact, the small matter of cleaning, which is bestowed upon a
house, is generally done by men. It id they who make the
beds and dust the rooms. They cook; they clean; and
sometimes even make gowns. I never shaJl forget my
astonishment at Naples, in sending for a dress-maker, when
a man appeared ; but he professed his capacity for the un-
dertaking. I was in haste, and he stitched me up a very
superb ball-dress before night.
In Eome, however, I think the dressmakers, and all the
washerwomen, are of the female gender. But the Boman
females are really generally a useless indolent set ; slovenly
and dirty in their persons and dress at home, and tawdrily
fine when they go abroad. Their virtue, I fear, cannot be
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zmmobjllity or hiddls classes. 251
much boasted of, and, like their superiors, few of them are
without their lorers and their intrigues. I know the hand-
some wife of a substantial shop-keeper, who, with the
consent of her husband, has been the mistress of three
successive noblemen, Italian and foreign, and lived with
them. The last sent her back in disgrace, on discovering,
that even in his house, she had contrived to receive her own
favoured lover. The husband took her back, and thej are
now living together.
Another tradesman makes over his wife at this moment
to a nobleman, for a certain annual compensation, and yet
these men do not seem to be despised for it. These facts I
know to be true, beyond the possibiiity of doubt ; and, in
spite of their grossness, I mention them, because you cannot
otherwise conceive the state of morals in this country.
The celibacy of the clergy is another cause of the want of
virtue among the women; for, by the perverse and un-
nxitural institutions of the church, those who ought to be
guardians, are too ofben in secret the corrupters of morals.
They thus strike at the root and bond of all morahty ; for
the virtue of a community will always be found to be in
proportion to the chastity of the women.
But I began about the Blessing of the Horses, and I
have been led, I know not how, into a long disquisition on
the morals and manners of the Italians.
Much more might be said upon them, but the subject is
not particularly pleasant, where we find so much to censure,
and so little to approve. In fine, the censure of Juvenal
may still be passed upon the Eomans —
Paupertate omnes.'
- hie yivimus ambitiofl&
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252 BOiOE.
LETTER LXXXI.
The Caxstiyjll.
Ths Bomans, in throwing off the shackles of moral
restraint, do not seem to have gained much gaietj or plea-
sure hy their release. Nothmg is more striking to a
stranger, than the sombre air which marks every counten-
ance, from the lowest to the highest in £ome. The faces
even of the young are rarely lighted up with smiles ; a
laugh is seldom heard, and a merry countenance strikes us
with amazement, from its novelty. £ome looks like a city
whose inhabitants have passed through the cave of Tropho-
nius. Tet, will it be believed, that this serious, this unsmil-
ing people, rush into the sports of the Carnival with a
passionate eagerness far surpassing all the rest of the
Italiaas? Thev are madly fond of the Boman Catholic
Saturnalia ; and, by a strange annual metamorphosis, from
the most grave and solemn, suddenly become the most wild
and extravagant people in the creation. It seems as if some
sudden delirium had seized them. AU ranks, classes, ages,
and sexes, — ^under the same intoxication of high spirits,
parade the streets. The poor starve, work, pawn, beg, bor-
row, steal, — do anything to procure a mask and a dress ; and
when the beU of the Capitol, after mid-day, gives licence to
the reign of folly to commence, the most ridiculous figures
issue forth, — ^wild for their favourite diversion. Characters
they can scarcely be called, since there is no attempt at sup-
porting, or even looking them, — either in the Corso in the
morning, or the Festino (the masked ball) in the evening.
Their only aim is to dress themselves, and " to fool it to the
top of their bent," and they do both to admiration. They
assume rich, picturesque, grotesque, or buffoon costumes,
according as it is their object to excite admiration,
laughter, or love. They may assume any disguise but what
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THE CAEKlViX. 253
is connected with religion or government. They are neither
permitted to be cardinals, priests, nuns, pilgrims, hermits,
friars, magistrates, or ministers. In general, the motley
multitude is made up of indescribable monsters. But
Punch and Harlequin abound. Pantaloon is a prime
favourite. The Doctor of Bologna is a great man; and
Pa^liataccio, a sort of clown or fool, dressed all in white,
even to the mask, is the most popular of all. Turks, Jews,
bakers, cooks, and camerieri, are common. The female
costumes of the Italian peasantry, especially of the vicinity,
imitated in gay spangled materials, are the favourite dress of
the young women. Some, however, go as Jewesses, because
then they may accost whom they please, without any breach
of decorum. Many of both sexes are dressed entirely in
white, even to the masks, with shepherds' hats; many in
black dominos, their heads covered with a black silk hood,
which is a complete disguise; and many, — ^perhaps the
majority, — ^wear no mask at all, but appear in gay dresses.
The proportion of masks here, however, is far greater than
at Naples. When a carriage contains masks, the servants,
and sometimes the horses, are often masked also, and the
coachman generally appears in the shape of an old woman.
The Carnival is just terminated, and we find it as amusing
here as it was stupid last year at Naples and Florence.
Even Venice, I hear, has lost her ancient pre-eminence in
its diversions; nor is it wonderM that, pining as she is
Tmder a mortal atrophy, she should want the spirit for
gaiety now. Eome is the place in which it is now seen to
the greatest perfection ; and for a day or two it is really an
amusing scene.
The Carnival, properly speaking, begins after Christmas-
day, and ends with the commencement of Lent, and during
that period the opera and theatres are licensed; but it is
only during the last eight days, — allowing for the inter-
Tening Fri&ys and Sun£iy, — ^that masking is allowed in the
streets. The Corso is the scene of this curious revelry : the
windows and balconies are hung with rich draperies and
filled with gaily dressed spectators. The Httle raised troUoirs
by the side, are set out with chairs, which are let, and occu-
pied by rows of masks. The street is, besides, crowded with
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254 BOics.
pedestrians, masked and unmasked; and two rows of carri-
ages, close behind each other, make a continual promenade.
Notwithstanding the crowd, the narrowness of the slTeet,
and the multitude of foot-passengers intermixed with the
carriages, no accident ever happens ; and though a few of
the horse-guards are stationed at intervals to preserve order,
and prevent the carriages from leaving then* line, I never
saw any occasion for their interference.
Both the masked and unmasked carry on the war. by
pelting each other with large handfiils of what ought to l)e
comfits ; but these being too costly to be used in such pro-
fusion, they are actually nothing more than pozzolana covered
with plaster of Paris, and manufactured for the purpose,
under the name of confetti de gesso (plaster comfits). TMb
coating flies off into hme-dust, and completely whitens the
figures of the combatants ; but its pungency sometimes does
serious mischief to the eyes.
Strangers seldom attack you, but those who know you, as
seldom let you escape ; and we, being unmasked, and in an
open carriage, were generally most unmercifully pelted by
masked antagonists. We took care to return the comph-
ment with interest, — ^abxmdance of this material, which may
be called the wit of the masquerade, being on sale, so that
you can never be at loss for a repartee.
Sometimes, indeed, we were assailed by an unexpected
volley from some passing pedestrian mask, on whom we
could at the time, inflict no retaliation ; but we never fiuled
to mark him as a subject for future retribution, when the
course of the promenade brought him again within our
reach.
It often happens, in the many steps of the carriages, that
two in the opposite lines begin the assault, and quantities of
ammunition being poured in, a furious pitched battle is car-
ried on, until the cavalcade being put in motion again,
separates the combatants. We sometimes received a dis-
charge of real comfits ; but they came " like angels' visits,
few, and far between."
Half a dozen masks were often hanging together on the
back of our carriage, chattering to us iniSl languages ; and
in many of them we recognised our English or foreign
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LA2<rGTJA6E OT SIGKS. 255
acquaintance. But tlie ItaHans seem to commtmicate with
each other less by words than signs. It is wonderM with
■what rabidity and facility they can cany on this interconrse,
at any visible distance ; and wey thus conyerse through the
medium of the eye, not the ear. Whether this custom
originated in that ancient jealousy which secluded Italian
women so rigorously from society ; or in that inquisitorial
fovemment which still renders freedom of sjjeech dangerous,
shall not inquire ; but it is certain that it is a language as
"w^eU understood by aU Italians as their mother tongue. The
signs they use are chiefly made by touching certain features,
or parts of the face with the fingers, or the whole hand, in a
particular manner ; and they thus express love, flattery, sup-
plication, admiration, jealousy, disdain, aversion, assent, dis-
sent, &c. These signs are used by all classes, and at all
time — even at church. At the church of the SS. Apostoli,
for example, which, on Sundays, at the last maes, is the
fashionable resort of the fine women and intriguing belles of
!Bome, a great deal of this mute conversation may be seen
going forward. The demeanour of the ladies, mdeed, i»
there generally distinguished by no small appearance of
coquet^ and flirtation, while that of the gentlemen is
marked by strong signs of devotion and adoration — ^which
are expressed in the Einguage of the eyes, and in this stiU
more explicit language of signs, which is to conversation
exactly what short-hand is to writing. This species of
telegraphic communication between the sexes is so rapid, so
immeaning in appearance, and yet so expressive, that it is
scarcely possible for the most watchful jealousy to prevent,
or even to detect it, if any care be taken to conceal it. It
struck me that more of it goes on during the Carnival than
at any other period.
Every day of the masquerade the Corso becomes more
crowded and more animated, tiU, on the last, the number
and spirit of the masks, the skirmishes of sweetmeats and
Jime-dust, and the shouts and ecstacies of all, siu*pass des-
cription.
The whole ends by exti/nguislimg the Carnival. Just
before dark, all the masks apjjear with a lighted taper,
labouring to blow out their neighbour's candle and keep
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*. -^Tir 3. -lar TEiiZst zt a : but,
— -r: - -ae^sz* -^ -x. ^vpt ]anCT«i ovi-
-s-^TL ^RTtlt. -£ii^ ~7^g" :?^S^ "i£^»50
T*" rr: vTr-rjss-sis. I lai told
^ -=ri :a. aat^i. -jy 3^^ » more
-: — t:jl r i i-w^ — oat CKH^ni
^* • '■^r^ ^*-T;;n "Trr«!^ssirQ5: and
^ --Ti ?*•— ^-^v 3sfc*-aECe^. ««^ to
^ a* ~ ■-> zj--r*-u;. rns rair, one
■ ~ " ■ -^-'V^. :i. Ir i;^ eeprered
azEMss. or
^OD the
'"-^ y'_ — '^^^^ lasdkssly
^7^ ^ t^aL^TntHaaaJl
- .. ^ ^^^"^^^^^^siia^i V tke farce
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256 EOME.
ill tlieii^ own. I can, easily believe thajb you cannot cohceiTe
the fun of this, unlesa you were in thye midst of it ; but,
ridiculous as it in9>y appear, I assure you we laughed our-
eelves merry .at this absilrd scene, ana that great philoso-*
pher, Mr. . ■ , nearly went into convulsions. I am told
the masking during the Carnival used to be far more
splendid in former times than it is now — ^that eastern
monarchs, followed by their Ethiopian slaves ; cars of vio-
tory, with laurel-crowned heroes; Koma^ processions.; and
the triumph of Bacchus, surrounded by Silenus and all his
crew of drunken- Fauns and possessed Bacchantes, used to
parade the Corso. But nothing so classically magnificent
18 now to be seen. Gn the last day, indeed, this year, one
large car - attracted everybody's attention. It was covered
with tapestry, and adorned with immense branches .of laur^,
amongst wmch were seated eight or ten black dominos, or
demons, who, sheltered by their own . evergreens firoxn Ae
pelting of the pitiless storm, dealt their fury mercilessly
round in showers of rattling hml. We afterwards found
this car contained Prince Leopold of Naples, with some
companions.
Every day of the masquerade, there is a race run by small
spirited horses, without riders. Their impetuosity in the
race, however, is not so much owing to their natural spirit,
as to the agony of the goads, or balls covered with snarp
spikes of metal, suspended from their backs, which at every
motion, fall heavily upon the same spot, making large raw
gory circles over then* bodies, horriole to behold. Some-
times six or eight ofthiese goads are beating their bleeding
sides at once, and as if this-w^^ not torment enough, fire
is likewise appHed to them, so that the poor animals, furious
under these tortures, often cannot be restrained by the force
of eight or ten men, from leaping the cords which confine
them at the entrance of the Corso. At the discharge of a
cannon, this barrier is withdrawn, and the whole competi-
tors fly off at fuH speed. The course, which is along the
CorsOy and consequently paved, is about a mile in length,
and the horses are stopped by a piece of cloth which is
suspended across the street, near the Yenetian Palace, at
the Eipresa de^ Barberi, so called from Barbary horses
being the original racers.
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HOBSE BACES OlS THE COBSO. 257
A little spirited English horse, never meant, however,
for a racer, won almost all the prizes, or palU, this year.
They consist of a rich piece of velvet, furnished at the cost
of the Jews, who were formerly compelled to run foot-races
themselves — ^which afforded much christian diversion to the
populace. It often happens that some of the horses run
aside down other streets; and one day the people waited
for the race in vain, the whole of the steeds having gone
off together towards St. Peter's. I was not one of the
disappointed ; having previously witnessed the races twice,
I was ever afterwards glad to get out of the way. To see
these poor animals thus wantonly tortured and infuriated
by pain, is anything but a pleasing or humane spectacle,
and one I most certainly never wish to see again.
Priests are forbidden to join in these revels ; but who
may be present under the mask, I suppose would puzzle
even the Pope's infallibility to find out. Occasionally, how-
ever, some curious discoveries have been made by chance.
In a late Carnival, the horses in a hack carriage, containing
two masks, becoming restive, ran off at full speed, threw
the coachman from his box, and never stopped till they
overturned the vehicle, near the Ponte Sant' Angelo. Both
the masks seemed to be severely hurt. The female, who
loudly bewailed her sufferings, proved to be a noted lady
of no very fair fame ; but her male companion, though the
blood from his wounded head trickled down his dress, reso-
lutely held on his mask, refused to speak, and though unable
to walk, endeavoured to escape from the crowd that wanted
to assist him. At length his mask was taken off by force ;
and he proved to be a Cardinal, whose name I refram from
mentioning.
There are only three Mstini, or public masked balls, al-
lowed during the Carnival. They are held in the Teatro
Alberto, a large handsome sala, now only used for this
purpose. The stage and pit are open to the masks, and
dancing of quadrilles, &c., goes on with much decorum;
though I need hardly observe, that none above roturier
rank ever participate in this part of the amusement. The
price of admittance is about one shilling and sixpence
!Einglish, and you may guess that the company is not very
VOL. II. * 8
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258 BOMS.
select, when I tell 70U that our Italian servants were there.
Yet nothing ever appears which could offend the most fasti-
dious deUcacj. The higher orders have boxes, and are
generallj unmasked ; but in the course of the night, thejr
often walk about among the people, and mix with the
motley crew, without ever meeting any impertinence or
unpleasant adventure.
There is no attempt whatever at supportiag; characters,
and none indeed are assumed. They have no idea of those
character masks, which we consider the very essence of a
masquerade. The masks are dressed whimsically, grotesque-
ly, laughably, and sometimes tastefully ; but they are mere
orosses, and they speak in a false squeaking tone, to perplex
each other, interchange compliments, or banters, and chatter
abundance of nonsense, but not in character. No doubt,
a great deal of intrigue may go on, but nothing of it is
seen, nor is there much time for it, for the Eestino begins
at eight, and at twelve everybody is turned out, and the
lights extinguished. The omv attempt at characters was
made by a few Englishmen, who supported their parts ad-
mirably, in our style. One, in particular, a Grub-street
poet, was excellent ; but his ballads, pinned about his hat,
nis elegies, sonnets, and odes, offered to aU, his heroic re-
citations, his own ecstacies at their beauty, and his tattered
and beggarly attire, seriously persuaded some of the Ita-
lians, to our infinite entertainment, that he was a poor mad
Endishman, in good earnest ; and they expressed the most
unteigned compassion for him.
I must end my account of the. Carnival with what I
ought to have commenced it, by telUng you that its amuse-
ments are uniformly ushered in bjr a public execution. If
any criminals are destined to condign punishment, they are
reserved for this occasion ; and I suppose it never happened
that some head was not laid on the block at this &stive
period. GPhree were guillotined this year. It is done with
a view to restrain the people, by the immediate terrors of
the example, from the commission of crimes, to which the
lic^ice of the season may be supposed to lead. A number,
of penitents attended these unhappy criminals to the scaf-
fol<^ 88 well as the pious brotherhood, who make this their
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PBOCESSIOKS OE PENITEKTS. 259
peculiar duty ; and both before and after the execution, they
Degged alms to say masses for their souls, to which hun-
dreds, even of the very poorest of the people, contributed
their mite. These processions of penitents, even during
the Carnival, make at times a pious, instead of a profane
masquerade. Dressed in long robes of sackcloth, girt with
ropes, their heads and feces covered with hoods, and their
eyes alone appeanng through holes cut for them, they pa-
rade the streets, and prostrate themselves before the altar
in prayer that the sins committed during this lawless season
may be forgiven. I am told, but cannot vouch for the fact,
that some of the gayest and most licentious masks on the
Corse make this preparation for the sins thev iutend to
commit, and perform subsequent penance again during Lent,
in expiation of the score they have run up.
The Carnival, iu its licence, its mirth, and its levelling of
rank, nay, even in its season, bears an obvious resembluice
to the Eoman Saturnalia. But it perhaps approaches still
more closely to the annual feast of Cybele,* when, according
to Livy,t the richest draperies were hung from the windows,
masquerading took place in the streets, and every one, dis-
gruismg himself as he pleased, walked about the city in jest
and biJdSbonery. This is premely a modem Carnival.
* The Gallic or priests of this goddess, seem to have borne a cnrions
resemblance to some of the Roman Catholic religious orders. They
were mendicants, and under the obligation of perpetual celibacy ; in
short, begging friars. There is a bas-relief in the Capitol which repre-
sents one of these priests with a scourge in his hand ; so that it would
seem flagellation was also practised amongst them as a religious virtue.
f Livy, lib. zxix. cap. 14. It took place on the 27th March, when
the simukcrum, or image of the goddess that fell from heaven, was
nrashed in the Almo.
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260 BOMl.
LETTER LXXXn.
Music aito the Dsama.
I CAME to Italy expecting to find it the land of song, to
hear music wafted in every gale, and every valley vocal with
harmony. Grreat has been my disappointment. I have not
only heard very little good music, but very little music at
aU. During the whole course of the eighteen months that
have now nearly elapsed since I first set foot in Italy,
during all my travels through the country, and my residence
in the towns, the sound of music has seldom met my ear
unsought. I find it, indeed, as in all great cities — in public
theatres, in crowded assemblies, and stately drawing-rooms ;
but it is not the spontaneous " voice of the people."
In their constantly recurring festas, when the streets are
thronged day after day with a listless loitering crowd, the
sound of music is seldom or never heard. It does not
beguile these long days of idleness, nor, as among the
Spaniards, the Portuguese, and the G-ermans, is it resorted
to after the hours of labour, to charm away their evening
cares. Even the artisan, plying his daily task, and "the
spinners in the sun," as they sit at their doors, twirliag the
slow thread on the distaff and spindle, are never heard
singing at their work.
The first music that saluted me at Eome, and that was
after I had lived nearly a month in it, was the bagpipe-
I was awakened one night from a feverish slumber by the
well-known drone of that mellifluous instrument. I ima-
gined, that being in a fever, I was also in a delirium ; but it
was by no means an ecstatic delusion, and these real, or
imaginary national tones, were so far from proving a treat
to my ungratified ears, that when a second bagpipe set up
its throat, and a third joined in the droning chorus, 1
thought I should have gone distracted.
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I
ITINEEANT MUSICIAKS. 261
The next night the same horrible disturbance was re-
peated ; and now convinced it was only too real, I found,
upon making inquiry, that numbers of Zampoffnari, or Pi/%-
Tori, as these bagpipers are called, aonuaUy come up from
Campania before Christmas, to play hymns upon then: bag-
ipes to the Virgin, who*, if she has any ear for music, must
e nearly deafened with this piece of their courtesy.
The serenades that had broken my rest, I found were
addressed to a Madonna immediately below my bedroom
-windows, and for many a night, or, as they call it, morning
(about four o'clock), did these pious pipers continue to
drone out their strains to this stony image, whose deafness
and insensibility I was tempted to envy.
The bagpipe, as my more travelled friends teU me, is a
very classical instrument, and extends not only over Italy,
but throughout Greece, and is supposed to be one of the
most ancient musical (query, unmusical?) instruments in
the world. I can only say, that if " Music, heavenly maid!*'
played upon it
" when she was young,
And first in early Greece she sung,"
I cannot enter into the poet's regret at not having heard
her ; but, on the contrary, am perfectly satisfied
** With all that charms this laggard age ;"
to wit — ^the strains she gives us now she has grown old.
Some wandering harpers from the south of Italy, too,
sometimes visit Home. Their music is simple, very peculiar,
probably very ancient, and certainly very sweet. They are
called Carciofolari, Excepting these itinerant musicians,
and one old blind man, who is stationary, I have heard no
street music in Eome, and very little in any town, village,
or hamlet of Italy, in which it has been my lot to sojourn,
excepting Naples and Venice. There the voice of music is
contmuaBy heard at evening, over the calm waters of the
Bay of ifaples and the canals of the Adriatic, — on the
Chiaja and the Piazza di San' Marco. The favourite instru-
ment in both places is the guitar, or viola, — an excellent
accompaniment for the voice. When I was at Naples,
' Bicciordello Antonio,' a beautiful playful little air, was the
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262 BOMS.
most popular among the lazzaroni ; and at Venice, ' Buona
notte, Amato bene,' met me at every comer ; both sung with
a spirit and gaiety that gave them an inexpressible charm.
One thing, indeed, 1 must remark, that wherever one
does hear music in Italy, it is really music (excepting the
bagpipe) — something deserving of the name.
One's ear is never tortured with the horrible tunes,
executed in a still more horrible style, with which it is
continually assailed in England. But the fact is, music
with us is au exotic, and the plant has a sickly and artificial
existence. In the great hotbed of London alone it comes
to any perfection, and there, though fine, it is forced.
K Italy bears away the pahn in vocal excellence, Ger-
many far surpasses it in instrumental music, in the refined
and universal taste, or rather passion, for music, diffused
among all classes, and in the excellence both of the com-
position and execution. There you may hear the compo-
sitions of Mozart, and Haydn, and Beethoven, in the
dwelling of every artisan ; but in Italy, her own imm rtal
ancient masters are neglected and forgotten, or heard now
only in other lands.
The higher orders have not the same strong passion for
music that I expected. It forms no part of the entertain-
ment in their conversaziones, except when a rare accademia
renders it the sole purpose of the meeting. Indeed- it
seems less generally than with us, a source of domestic
amusement ; but I am not sure that this is to be regretted :
it may perhaps be doubted, whether the invaluable years of
ever^ young English lady's lile that are devoted to the
attainment of a certain degree of expertness in running over
the keys of a pianoforte, might not, where there is no
natural taste for it, be better employed.
In Italy, though every lady of a certain rank is not a
musician, there are many who sing and play with a taste
and science worthy of first-rate professional performers. In
the other sex there are stiU more examples of this, though it
is said to be less common now than in lormer times. Italian
noblemen may still be found fiddling all night for their own
amusement in an orchestra ; but these things are, compara-
tively speaking, rare.
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SAGSES MUBIO. 263
I have frequently attended a weekly aeeademia of music
given at Eome by a man who made a fortune hj selling
fiddle-strings. Notwithstanding his ]^beian on^, his
concerts are frequented by most of the^Boman nobility, by
foreign ambassadors, and royal princes. The performers
are, for the most part, amateurs, and some of them very
good ; but who does not see, that though the company at
large loudly applaud the performance, and cry, 'flow
charming! how divine!' their whole souls ore intent upon
the looks, dress, flirtations, and admirations of each other, —
upon bowing, smiling, coquetting, manoeuvring, — upon any-
thing, in short, but the music ; and that, though the osten-
sible, it is not the real source of attraction P
Eome has at present the worst opera in Italy, but the
best sacred music in the world. In all the churches, the
festas of the saints to whom they are dedicated are an-
nually celebrated with a grand sacred concert of vocal and
instrumental music, by a band of professional performers ;
and, on these occasions — in the Jesuits' church at the close
of the old, and commencement of the new year, — ^in the
chapel of the choir at St. Peter's on Sundays, at vespers
durmg Lent and Advent, — and more particularly in the
three grand Misereres of the Holy Week, and the accade-
mias given at that time in private houses, — ^the music is
indeed of unrivalled excellence, and fraught with a lofty
sublimity and pathos, to which nothing I ever heard else-
where even approximates. Yet it is strange, that with such
heavenly harmony at command, the ordinary church music
should be absolutely bad; indeed, scarcely deserving the
name.
In the chapel of a convent on the Quirinal HiQ, called,
I think, the Church, or Chapel of Santa Anna, the singing
of the nuns, at vespers, is singularly touching. In this
chaj)el there is the perpetual exposition of the Host ; and,
in. consequence, it is perpetually illuminated, night and day,
with wax tapers. I have never entered it without finding it
filled with people, all on their knees on the marble floor, and
a silence so profound reigning through it, that every half-
stifled sigh of penitence that broke m)m them reached the
ear. Every being there seemed as unconscious of the pre-
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264 BOME.
sence of those with whom he was in contact, as if in a
desert. No doubt, the a^^l stillness that prevailed amidst
this crowd of people, and the unnatural glare of the illumi-
nation within, when all without was bright in day, had their
influence in giving effect to the full harmoiiious voices of
the invisible inmates of the cloister, whom men might see
no more. But so powerful was the pathos of their choral
strain, that it affected many, " albeit unused to the melting^
mood," even to tears.
The romantic custom of serenades is still very generally
practised among the middle and lower classes. On a
moonlight evening, the lover conducts a little band of hired
musicians below the windows of his mistress, and while they
pour forth the melting strains of melody, he stands to watch
her appearance, to breathe forth his sighs, or, by mute signs,
implore her pity. Her name is echoed in the songs, which
are sometimes really composed, and are always supposed to
be so, by him. A fair Italian, who lives a few doors from
us, has been serenaded almost every night this week, by her
enamoured swain.
Though the time of the Carnival, there is only one theatre
(La Valle) open here ; and even this, like the Fiorentini at
Naples, is a melange of the Opera and the Theatre. The
dancing is wretched beyond description ; the music is bad,
and the acting not many degrees better. Some of the farces
and buffooneries, however, have been amusing. * Gli Ciar-
latani,' a farce I saw the other night, had abundance of low
humour, and was irresistibly laughable, and weU played. I
have not yet seen any of the very few good comedies of
Groldoni, but I have yawned through several representations
of his tedious and trifling colloquies of five acts, without
incident, interest, character, or vis comica. He really seems
to think that the common occurrences of a domestic day,
such as drinking a cup of chocolate, sitting down to dinner,
scolding the servants, or spoiling the children, are sufiicient
materials for a drama. One would wonder that any author
could ever have written such trash, or that any audience
could have listened to it ; still more, that any one who had
ever written anything so good as a few of his well-known
pieces, should have produced so much that is so very bad aa
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GOLDOHl'S PLATS. 265
xiine-tenths of his puerile trash, misnamed comedies. * II
Burbero Benefico,' which is one of the best of them, was
written at Paris, after a long and diligent study of the
French comedy, which it resembles, without equalliag ; and
though it may be a very curious circumstance that he wrote
it originally in Erench, it cannot make it a better play.
He has occasionally traits of coarse humour and of character,
but never of genuine wit or genius ; and everything he ever
wrote is tinctured with gross vulgarity, and betrays his
extraordinary ignorance, as well as the limited scope of his
ideas. Even in the best of his productions, there is a de-
plorable want of life and interest, and plot and wit. The
three wearisome plays upon Richardson's * Pamela,' though
great favourites with the Italians, whose dramatic personi-
fications give as false an idea of the English character, as
ours of theirs, are a proof how rarely authors succeed in
painting the manners and characters of any nation except
tbeu* own.
In seizing those of his own gay Venetians, Groldoni has
been far more happy, and perhaps, upon the whole, some of
the whole host of plays he wrote in that sweet patois, are
superior to all those in what he is pleased to call the lingtia
Toscana. My acquaintance with his four-and-forty volumes
of comedies, however, is by no means universal, and has
been a good deal impeded by an unlucky habit of falling
asleep over them.
GFoldoni wrote sixteen bad comedies in one year ; it would
have been better if he had written one good one in sixteen
years. He may more properly be called, a play-monger than
a comic poet. I have never seen any of Alfieri's tragedies,
nor indeed any tragedy at all, performed; nor is it likely
I should, for Aliieri is much talked of, but little read, and
scarcely ever acted. AH his plays, except four, were prohi-
bited by the Erench, from political motives, nor is it likely
that the interdict will be taken off by the present govern-
ments. The loss is the less, because they are confessedly
ill adapted to the stage ; they are unpopular in representa-
tion, even among the Italians themselves ; and such being
the case, they may be fine poems, but cannot be considered
fine playfl.
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266 BOKX.
It is tme they bear a liigh name in Italy, because there
thej stand alone. AMeri has no competitor, and wins the
prize like a race-horse that walks over the course. They
may be comparatively, without being positively good. It
may, indeed, seem presumptuous to assert that Alfieri's
plays are deficient in dramatic merit, but their total want of
success on the stage is surely a decisive proof of it. As
compositions they may be fine; but as dramas they are
deficient in plot, character, action, interest, incident, and
passion, and most of all, in nature. High-soundiug senti-
ments are uttered, and high heroic deeds performed, but by
imaginary beings. Alfien has cast men in moulds of hia
own, and made them act as he pleases; he has not pene-
trated into the deep recesses of the human heart, like
Shakespeare, and pamted from what he traced there. His
plays are addressed to the head rather than the heart, and
consequently they never touch our hearts, nor move our
feelings. Besides, in most of them, there is far too much
said and too little done ; an unredeemable fault in dramatic
composition.
Italy must yield to England, Prauce, and even to Spain,
both iu tragedy and comedy. I do not speak of the G^rmaji
theatre, because I cannot judge of it iu the original, there-
fore not at aU. Italy was the first seat of modem dramatic
performances. Long before any other of the nations of
Europe had a stage, himdreds of tragedies and comedies
were represented here. But what were these comedie
arUiche? — ^Dry, lifeless imitations of the Grecian and Eoman
dramatists, tolerated at first with difficulty; even by the.
learned, never endured by the body of the people, and long
since consigned to dust and utter oblivion. In fact, para-
doxical as it may seem, the true legitimate drama of life and
nature is not the natural growth of Italy. The Opera and
the Pantomime, BCarlequin and Punchinello, Music and
Buffo, are indigenous, and flourish in fuU perfection. But
the Theatre is everywhere secondary to the Opera. While
the veiy names and memories of the singers of Italy are re-
echoed with rapture in every country, there are not, nor ever
have been, any actors of great popular fame, — ^not at least in
the regular drama ; for in the old native Commedie deV Arte^
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XXTEHPOBB PLATS. 267
wbich Goldoni laboured so hard to banish, while his best
works, afber all, are formed upon its model, they were excel-
lent in their way. In these, nothing was written, — ^the
action and dialogue were entirely left to the extempore wit
of the performers, who had. only for a guide the dry bare
skeleton, — ^the scenario, as they cisdled it, of the play ; which
was previously planned, and stuck up behind the scenes;
bnt they Med up the sketch al improwiso, with their own
colouring ; their merry dialogue, their smart repartee, their
practical jokes, their buffoonery and grimace. Thus they
were at the same moment authors and actors. Their cha-
racters, to be sure, were all established. There were Pan-
taloi^ (Pantaloon) the old Venetian merchant, il Dottore
(the T)octor of Bologna), the Neapolitan PollicineUo (Punch),
the Bergamasque Arlecchino (Harlequin), a blundering ser-
vant, the Calabrian Clown (Griangurgolo or CorieUo), the
Ferrarese Eogue (BrigheUa), the Bull^ of Naples (Spa-
viento), the Coxcomb of Eome (Ghelsomino), and the Srni-
pleton of Milan, whose established name I have forgotten.
^ All these wore masKS. Besides which, there were the
Lovers (Gl* Innamorati), in eveiy play, who were senti-
mental, and were not masked, and spoke in Un^^ua Toscana,
It was observed to me, by an ingenious Italian, that the
extempore nature of these pieces, — ^the acting in masks, and
the whole style of the performance, includmg, I fear, its
licentiousness, — seemed to prove the Oommedie deV Arte to
be the legitimate descendant of the ancient Atellana. I
confess I should be sorry to see anything so truly national,
and so highly ingenious, banished Italy altogether; but it
is certainly on the wane. The higher orders learn from
foreigners to decry and discountenance it, and the lower
orders have little voice here.
The Italians show a good deal of the same talent in the
management of the JEhntoccini or Burattini — the acting
puppets, which are as much superior to the Marionettes of
tVance, as a pantomime to a puppet-show. Thev are so ad-
mirably managed, that one contmually forgets tliey are not
real men and women ; and their dialogues have all the air
of proceeding from their own mouths. I have certainly,
hitherto, met with no actors here to compare to those
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268 BOME.
wooden ones, and I shall not soon forget the diversion I
experienced the other night from their performance. They
first represented a most kughable little comedy. This was
followed by a melo-drama taken from Ariosto, and full of
enchantments. The magic mirror, the flying horse, the
brazen palace, the Oreo, Astolfo's journey to the moon,
Bradamante's prowess, &c., &c., were formed into a con-
nected plot of adventure and romance, terminating in Brad-
amante's marriage with Euggiero. The last piece was still
more classical ; it was the tale of Orpheus and Eurydice,
travestied. Orpheus himself, fiddling, in a huge bag-wig
and an old-fashioned court-dress, ana aU his adventures in
hell, and out of it, were inexpressibly laughable. By fer
the best Fantoccini are at Eome ; the next in merit are at
Milan.
The ancient Miracles, or Mysteries, or Moralities, the
earliest attempts at drama in every country in Europe, and
the favourite amusements of the middle ages, still maintain
their ground in Italy. Several of these pious plays were per-
formed at Rome this year about Christmas-time. The subjects
are taken from Holy Writ. Our Saviour, with the Twelve
Apostles and the three Maries ; and Saints, and Angels,
and Prophets, without end, hold long colloquies together ;
and the devil seldom fails to perform a principal part. But
will it be believed, that the Supreme Being is impiously
represented in these wretched mummeries on the public
stage, by a strolling actor, and that they blasphemously
presume to put into His mouth their low doggrel rhvmes ?
The time was, indeed, in England, when the parish clerks
used " to put forth a play for the goodlie entertainment of
the King, the Queen, and all the nobility ;" and the famous
* Play of Coventry' * (in forty acts) was represented ; — ^the
first act or pageant of which was opened by a set speech
from the Deity himself, seated upon his throne. But that
an exhibition, which can scarcely be traced in England, even
in the fourteenth century, should be tolerated at Eome in
the niueteenth — may well excite our unqualified amaze-
ment.
• Ludus Coventriae, or Corpus Christi, a Mystery, — still extant
(Vide Strutt's Sports of the People of England, book iiL chap, ii.)
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THE OPERA. 269
The state of the regular theatre in Italy, both as to the
drama and the performers, is, in all I have seen of it, at
a very low ebb. At Naples, however, I was often well
amused; at Some I have almost invariably been wearied
or disgusted.
The opera at Eome, I imderstand, is always bad, but this
winter it is intolerable. The instrumental and vocal parts
seem to contend in rivalry of wretchedness. Eossini's beau-
tiful * Tancredi ' has been mercilessly murdered all winter ;
still the boxes of the Argentina are as crowded with the
beauty and fashion of Rome, as if the music were of the
first description. Nor can it, as at Paris, be the dancing
which forms the attraction ; for nothing can be so wretched
as the ballet.
The best operas are at Milan and Naples ; the greater
population and consequence of these cities, as well as the
splendour and magnitude of the Sala in both places, will
probably long enable them to support this superiority. The
world can produce no theatres to rival La Scala at Milan,
and San Carlo at Naples. The latter is superior in fresh-
ness of decoration, but perhaps the other is quite as noblo
in architecture. The finest singers of Italy are to be found
abroad, rather than at home. . The superior emoluments
which London, and indeed every other capital offers, charms
away her native syrens. The low prices oi entrance through-
out Italy (the highest for the pit being, I think, about
eighteen-pence of English money, and a whole box often
hired for the night, even during the Carnival, for five
shillings), render the salaries of the performers necessarily
low. I have, however, sometimes heard, in very unpromis-
ing places, a very delightful musical treat. Almost every
little town has its opera during some part of the year, and
this certainly is a strong proof of a imiversal passion for
music among the people. It would be stiU stronger, how-
ever, if they attended to the music; but I must say, I
never was so much disturbed in the box of any woman of
fashion at London, as in those of my Italian ^ends at
Milan and Naples, which, with Venice, are reputed, and
justly, to be the most musical places in Italy. In fact,
the Italians go to the Opera for society, and the night is
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270 BOHE.
spent in paying yisits &om one box to another, and in
incessant cliattering. The continual repetition of the same
opera during the whole season, is perhaps one great caiuse
01 this. I observed, on the only first representation I ever
witnessed, that the utmost silence and attention preyailed
till the piece was concluded.
In fine, I must end as I have begun, by acknowledging^
myself disappointed in the music of Italy, disappointed in
the quantity, disappointed in the quality, and disappointed
in the execution. I expected from it (and who would not ?)
pre-eminent excellence ; but I have heard much finer music,
both vocal and instrumental, at the Opera, at the Philhar-
monic Concerts, in London, and in most of the great, and
many of the little towns in Germany, than I have ever
heard in any part of Italy. I speak now of cultivated
music, — of the music of courts, and operas and concerts.
In the untutored music of the people, I am sure there is
nothiug, among the whole cont<tdmi of Italy, to compare
to the singing of the peasant girls of Unterseen, Brienz,
and many parts of German Switzerland and Germany.
The true Italian connoisseurs, indeed, say that music,
and musical taste, have wofully degenerated in this country,
and I cannot but believe them. Indeed, though such com-
plaints seldom meet with much attention, and are always
ascribed to a querulousness that is dissatisfied with the pre-
sent, I am inclined to believe that they are generally-
founded on truth. Nobody thitiks of saying t£it taste
for the fine arts has declined among the Engnsh, or taste
for politics among the French, or tastf for reformation
among the Grermans, for these things have greatly and
manifestly increased; and so many people would not say
that musical taste had declined in Italy, nor should we
see so many appearances of it, if it were not in some mea^
sure true.
But even if this be the case, Italy is still the second
musical country in the world ; it must at least rank after
Germany. In England, as I before observed, music is an
exotic ; we have it, indeed, in its highest perfection, as we
have grapes in our hot-houses ; but the produce is, after all,
forced and scanty, and entirely confined to the metropolis.
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MTISIC. 271
and even there, to the rich, who often taste, without en-
joying it ; in fact we import, rather than grow it ; and unless
we bestowed much labour aud expense • upon it, we should
never have any at all. The English are not naturally a
musical people. Nor yet are the French. Neither in
France, nor even in French Switzerland — ^which aflfords a
striking contrast to the German Cantons, where the people
are highly musical — ^in Holland, nor in Belgium, in Great
^Britain nor in Ireland, have I ever heard anything that
deserves to be called music ; for the simple national melo-
dies of Scotland, whose beauty and pathos I feel with all
the soul of a native, are not that true superior scientific
music, that men of cultivated taste, from every part of the
world, will equally admire and relish.
Perhaps such music is pretty much oonfmed to Germany
and Italy; and perhaps the thing that is most remote
from it, is that class of native productions in England
and France, which those countries are pleased to denomi-
nate music.
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272 BOins.
LETTEE LXXXIII.
ImPEOTTSATOBI — ^ACOASEMIE.
I HATE heard one of the most extraordinary Improvisatori
that I suppose ever appeared, even in Italy. For four op
five successive hours, he continues to pour forth a flood of
unpremeditated verse, without the smallest hesitation, or
apparent effort, and with far more ease than any of us
could, after hard labour, recite a composition by rote. But
this is not the wonder. This prodigy can compose entire
extempore tragedies on any given subject, with all the plot,
incident, and dramatis personsB, — ^repeat all the parts him-
self, and bring the whole to a regular denouement, with
as much ease as you and I would cany on a common con-
versation.
I assure you that I do not exaggerate. No words can
do justice to the perfect ease, the energy, and unhesitating
flow of verse, in which he poured forth this long, and, in
some respects, fine tragedy; for there were scenes and
passages m it, that not only possessed real poetic beauty
and the warm irresistible eloquence of passion, but might
have done honour to a drama deliberately finished off in
the closet. I, a poor unskilled foreigner, you may be sure,
would not have the presumption to pronounce so decisively
upon its positive merits, though I might be allowed to have
an opinion of its comparative ones ; since I must be as well
qualified to judge of one Italian play as another ; but the
solemn critics who surrounded me — ^with brows bent to
frown, and dispositions prepared to condemn — ^were them-
selves carried away into tne same extravagant applause,
admiration, and astonishment which possessed me.
That it was really improwiso, not a shadow of doubt could
exist, even in the minds of the most incredulous, of whom.
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THE IMPBOTIBATOSE SGBIGGI. 273
before I went, I believe I was one. A variety of subjects,
Sroposed by different persons in company, were written
own by a man on the sta^e, sealed, and thrown into a vase,
which was shaken by vanous people among the audience,
and the billet was drawn by a gentleman of our acquaint-
ance. On' this occasion it proved to be * Medea ;' a subject
so hackneyed, that when Signore Tomaso Sgricci — for that
is the name of this extraordinary person — received it on
his entrance, he expressed a wish tnat another lot might
be drawn ; both from the difl&culty of avoiding an imitation
of the great writers who had already treated it, and from
having very lately, at Florence, dramatized on the same.
The Sala, however, resounded with cries of * Medea !
Medea!' to the ioy of an Italian gentleman of my ac-
quaintance, behind me, who had heard him on this veiy
theme at Florence, and was curious to see if he would
repeat it verbatim. Signore Sgricci bowed, paused a single
minute, and then said, that to avoid repetition as much as
possible, he would make a different cast of parts. He
introduced, as my Florentine friend acknowledged, two
new characters, opened the action in a different part of
the story, and neither in a single scene, nor even speech,
^proached to the tragedy he had composed at Florence.
The character of Medea, throughout, was supported with
wonderful force and effect; and her invocation to the
hellish brood was horribly sublime. The second tragedy,
which I heard on another occasion, was a much more novel
subject ; it was the death of Lucretia, which gave far more
scope to his powers ; and there were many parts in it which
absolutely electrified the house, and drew forth loud and
continued 'Evviva'sT of applause. I should observe, that
these tragedies were both in verse sciolto, without rhyme ;
but improvmso poems, on any given subject and measure,
he pours forth with the same inconceivable rapidity.
He is a native of Arezzo (the birth-place of retrarch),
and the harsh Tuscan accent is very distinguishable in his
enunciation. His language, however, is remarkably pure,
and its flow and variety are most wonderful,
Signore Sgricci is, as far as I know, the only improvi- .
satore who ever attempted tragedy. Of the tribe who
VOL. n. T
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274 BOia.
spout forth torrents of Terse on ererr possible theme, tb^e
is no end. It is, however, &r from bemg mj intention to
speak of them disparae^inglj ; on the contrary, I think it
a wonderful talent, and one which, I believe, is exclusively
Italian; for, though I have heard, in the evenings of
summer, a knot of Portuguese peasants singing to their
guitar, improwuto (which they call gloggare) ; — ^their little
extempore songs can scarcely be styled poetry; aspiring
to no elevation, fancy, or even regularity of metre, but
merely stringing together the rhymes into which their
euphonious language naturally runs. The genius of the
Italian language affords considerable facility to the com-
position of verse ; yet, when that composition is to be on
any ^ven subject, without a moment's pause or hesitation,
and m the fiice of an expecting audience, it is amazing that
its diiEculties can be conquered at all. Few people in our
country would find it easy to make a tolerable dissertation in
prose, on any given theme, in such a situation ; how much
more difficult would they find it, when encumbered with the
fetters of rhyme and measure ! But the Italian improvisatoii
could make no extempore oration in prose on a given theme;
and this seems to prove that it is a sort of inspiration, or
poetic fervour, that carries them on. They often compose
with rime obligate, that is, the rhymes and measure, as well
as subject, are assigned them. This, to my great astonish-
ment, one of them assured me, he found even easier than
unshackled composition, because the rhymes being chosen
saved him the necessity of searching for them ; so that it
is plain he adapted the sense to the sound, not the sound
to the sense, it is very common, too, to have a verso
(Migato, a distich taken from any popular poet, assi^ed
them, which they must introduce at ttie end of every eight-
Hue stanza.
It is scarcely possible that verses so composed should
ever be very ^q, and sometimes they are very bad; but
they are occasionally wonderfiilly pretl^, and adorned with
images and allusions which it is amazing they should have
been able to conjure up in the moment. But the truth is,
they have similes and thoughts ready prepared ; they are
versed in all the common-place of poetry, have ail its
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IHFBOTISATOBI. 275
lifickneyed images at command, and bring in on all occa-
sions, the gods and goddesses, and muses, as auxiliaries.
StOl, when themes are given on which these useM per-
sonages cannot be brought to their assistance, and on
which, from their oddity, they could not be prepared, they
sometimes hit off very happily-turned verses. I gave *a
cat,' as a subject one night to a Eoman improvisatrice,*
who instantly composed some very pretty lines upon it;
and ' a pen/ upon another occasion, called forth a stul more
ingenious poem from a gentleman.
By far tne most interesting performance of the kind is,
when two sing together, or rather against each other, in
alternate stanzas; something like the contests in Virgil's
Eclogues, or the trials of skiH between ancient bards. The
improvisatori, fired by each other's strains, by rivalry, and
emulation, pour out their strophe and antistrophe, with a
degree of mcreasing fervour and animation, that carries
away their audience, as well as themselves.
Of the improvisatori of Eome itself, Signore Bionde is,
in my opinion, by far the first, and I believe he is almost
a Bontaiy example of the publishedpoems of an improvi-
satore being received with 6clat. He, too, with the excep-
tion of Signore Sgricci, is the most calm in his action, the
most free from &ose violent contortions or distortions
which, whether the effect of natural agitation or affected
passion, are peculiarly unpleasant to witness. These, iur
deed, I have invariably observed to be strongest in an
inverse ratio to the goodness of the performer ; and Sgzicci,
who confessedly stands at the head of the race, is wholly
free from them.
A young Neapolitan improvisatrice, Bosa Taddei^ has lately
excited great interest at Eome ; she is only nineteen, not
hands(Hne, but with a countenance fidl of expressipn, inteU
ligence, and sensibility. That she is endowed with great
natural genius, it would be vain to deny ; and though very
unequal, her compositions are sometimeB lighted up with
bursts of beauty, that seem really the effect of inspiration ;
* A lady of remarkable talent, who, from diffidence, never would
attempt to perform, except in a aniall circle of her own fiiendB. She is
since dead.
t2
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276 E0MT5.
but it is almost painful to see her, firom the agitation under
which she labours, and the violent physical effort which
every line seems to cost her. She is the daughter of a
comedian, and has enjoyed no advantage of education ; yet
her manners have that natural elegance which results from
a mind of genius and sensibility. She is /now studying
Latin, that universal and rational foundation for a good
education here, and is making rapid advances in knowledge
in history. With the Italian poets she is already con-
versant.
I never pitied any one more than this poor girl, at two or
three sittings of the ticcademie. These sapient institutions
are confraternities of male and female poets, who elect and
eulogize, and stun each other with their own lackadaisical
sonnets, elegies, and pastorals. There are two grand aeca-
demie in Eome, the Tiburina, which is quite of modem date,
and the Arcadia, which is the ancient parent of the whole,
and has planted its colonies in every ciijr of Italy: for the
Arcadians, — ^these enraptured swains, who so unweariedly
extol the pleasures of rural simplicity and pastoral innocence,
win be sought in vain among peaceful plains or secluded
hamlets,* or anywhere, except among the din of populous
towns. Every member, on admission, becomes a shepherd,
and takes some pastoral name, and receives a grant of some
fanciful pastoral estate in the happy re^ons of Arcadia,
where he is supposed to feed his narmless sheep. This
pastoral brotherhood holds its meetings in a large hall,
adorned with portraits of some of the most famous worthies
among its deceased members ; among whom, Sir Isaac New-
ton, and several other great philosophers of our country, had
the Tumour to be included. Once a-month, — ^moved I pre-
sume by the influence of the moon, — ^they assemble to
disburden their minds, and rills of nonsense meander from
every mouth. I was once seduced into one of these assem-
blages, and sustained the infliction of the incessant recitation
of the most wretched rhymes during three mortal hours.
Nothing could be much more ridiculous than to hear an
Arcadian, in the shape of a huge, clumsy, ungainly-looking
man, in dirty boots, and a great coat, called upon by some
such absurd name as ' XL Pastor Corydone,' and then to see
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EOSi. TADDEI. 277
him get up and begin to repeat some silly ditty about his
sheep, or to bewail himself on the cruelty of his MUtde.
The natural effect ensued, and one of these plaintive pastorals
was interrupted by the loud snores of a fat Arcadian swain.
They convened an extraordinary sitting the other night, in
honour of Bosa Taddei, the fair improvisatrice, whom, of'
course, they have made a shepherdess. She was handed into
the crowded sala, which on this occasion presented not its
usual beggarly account of empty benches, but boasted of
cardinals, dukes, and duchesses, foreign ambassadors, — and
Canova, who accompanied us. One after another they began
addressing her, in long Latin and Italian pastorals, and other
rigmaroles, in -which they made her out to be a star come
down from heaven ; an amaranthine flower transplanted to
earth ; the soul of a seraph, usually employed in singing in
heaven, now come down to perform in this nether world:
they said Gorilla was a dunce to her ; even Sappho herself
was undone: she was a tenth Muse, and beat the other
nine all to nothing, — had been nursed upon Olympus, and
was Apollo's prime favourite, &c. &c.
She is really modest, and without any affectation it was
easy to see she was extremely discomposed with the absurd
hyperboles that were mercilessly addressed to her. After
this weary performance, her own began. The parting of
Titus and Berenice, — ^the address of Moses te the IsraeHtes
on the passage of the Eed Sea (some passages very fine),
— ^the Fall of Man, — Adam and Eve expelled from Paradise,
— ^the Death of Arria, — the Parting of Venus and Adonis
(by far the best), — ^the Battle of Constantine and Maxentius
(not suited to her, and ven^ poor), and Calliope at the Tomb
of Homer, — a favourite Italian mode of verse-making, in
which the supposed visiter, whether muse or man, pours
forth an appropriate strain of lamentation; these were
some of the principal subjects on which she sang, with
various, but sometimes distinguished success. She is almost
the only performer in whom I have ever seen much hesita-
tion. She was fre<juently obliged to repeat the last line
twice, and even thnce. I beheve I forgot te tell you that
few improvisatori, except Sgricci, ever perform without
muBic, and none ever accompany themselves. They choose
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278 xoia.
a simple, but marked measure, suited to the rhythm thej are
going to compose in, which is ph&jed on the pianoforte bj
another person ; and the cadence, and strong intonation in
which the^ recite, is nearly singing.
The utility of the music is not so much to conceal any
irregularity m the metre, as to give a certain inspiration to
the performer,— to kindle a certain feeling of enthusiasm,
which it is vam to describe, but which all who are suscep-
tible of the power of music or poesy must have felt. The
improvisator! seem to have the power, by certain associations,
of calling up at will those trains of feeling under which
alone they can pour forth the unpremeditated strains of
lyric song. Several of the Italian improvisatrice, in their
raised and inspired moods, pouring forth their unpremedi-
tated strains, — exactly as if possessed, — ^remind me of all I
have heard of the Sibyls of old, who, I believe, were nothing
more than improvisatrice, except that they spoke, and were
heard, under the belief of their oracular divine mission.
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BOiCAir fOETS. 279
LETTEE LXXXIV.
POETET, LlTEEATXTBE, AITO SOIENCE.
Theeb are few places in which the Latin classics are more
generally studied, or underatood, than at Eome, nor are the
ffreat Italian poets less duly appreciated. There is not a
fine of Dante, or Tasso, or Petrarch, that is not diligently
conned. Yet, in spite of all this studying of poets, there is
no poetry. IHdes of verae are poured forth in an unceasmg
flow, but nothing remains. They all pass into the quiet
Btream of oblivion.
Of all the innumerable living poets of Eome, there is not
one whose works I ever yet could read to an end ; perhaps,
therefore, I am not competent to give an opinion xfpon their
merits ; and posterity, I suspect, will not have the means of
deciding upon them. It certainly proves a disinterested love
of the Muses, that there should be so many of their votaries
in a country where a poet must be poor, and where indeed
no author can easily make any money; but these capricious
ladies do by no means seem to respond to the passion enter-
tained for them, or bless with their favours theur importunate
Eoman suitors.
If I am not struck with the charms of their verse, I am
scarcely more captivated mth their prose. Its tedious for-
mality, its unvaried dulness, and its wearisome verbosity, are
inconceivable, except to those who have laboured at it ; and
these qualities, witn few exceptions, are characteristic alike
of the old and new writers. At least, I can truly say that,
during the two years that have elapsed since I jBrst came to
Home, not a work has passed the press to which their own
expressive * Seccatura!* does not apply. Why they always
thmk it necessary to involve their meaning, wlien they have
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280 -ROUT..
any, in such a cloud of words, is more tban I can pretend to
explain. Neither do I understand how it hiwpens, that men
who in conversation are so deyer and entertaining, should in
their writings be so tedious and stupid.
These observations, in some measure, applj not to IBome
only, but to the whole of Italy. At the same time, wide is
the difference at present between the south and the north of
this country. Tbe scale of intellectual gradation may be
said to rise regularly with the degrees of latitude, firom
Naples to Milan. It is there you must look for literature
and science. It is there, too, that the last poets of Italy
flourished. Perhaps I ought to speak in the present tense,
for Pindemonte is still alive, tmd it would be ungrateful to
pass over one who sang the praise of the beauty, the virtue,
and the mental charms and graces of my countrywomen, in
strains that ought to live. Passerone*s poems, too, possess
great merit ; but none, in my opinion, are equal to Tarini,
the Pope of Italy, whose admirable Oiomati, in ♦ts witty
strain of satire, may even court a comparison with the Eape
of the Lock.
Like Pope, too, he was deformed, and even from childhood
a cripple; and like Bums, this elegant satirist, the idol
and the scourge of drawing-rooms, and the bugbear of a
court, raised himself from the station of a ploughman, and
struggled with poverty and with hardship, cruelly aggra-
vated by a long life of sickness and suffering. He wrote
many admirable pieces, but La Qiomata is by far the best.*
With this sohtary exception, — and we can scarcely call
that a poem of the day, which has been read nearly half a
century, — ^the most popular modem poems in Italy are, at
present, translations' from the Enghsh ; and Ossian and The
seasons are scarcely less admired m the vales of Italy than
among their native Caledonian moimtains. Poetic genius,
indeed, seems to have taken its flight to our favoured island,
and while the names and the lays of Byron, Campbell, Scott,
Moore, Crabbe, Wordsworth, &c. &c., resound beneath our
gloomy skies, none have caught the ear of Fame, in the
* It is divided into four parts/ * II Mattino, il Meriggio, il Vespro, e
la Notte ;' and gives an exqaisite satirical picture of the life of an
Italian fashionable.
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POETBT OF ITALY. 281
country which would seem to be the native land, and to
boast tne native language of song.
The modem bards of England surpass those of Italy as
much as the immortal poets of Italy's better days excel
all other nations. I scarcely know how to name another
modem Italian poet, — Ugo !Fosco1o*s prose is better than
his verse, and neither are of pre-eminent merit.
Casti is dead ; and his Animali Farlawti, though it had all
the advantages of being prohibited, first by Bonaparte, and
next by the existing government, is, in my humble opinion,
more talked of than read, more praised than admired, and
more admired than it deserves. The strain of bitter sar-
casm which runs through it, shows quite as much malignity
as wit ; and who can read with patience the colloquies of
lions and other beasts, through three long volumes ?
No work of modem dajs boasts any of the fire of fancy —
the bright creations or mspired spirit of true poetry ; and,
sickened with the dull, maudlin common-place that is thrust
upon one in every circle, one is tempted to ask one's self if
this is reaUy the coimtry that produced an Ariosto ? But
it did produce Ariosto, and that is atonement sufficient.
One delightful flight of his imagination is worth all that
Italy has to boast in latter days.
His inexhaustible beauties and magic creations, that
master both the fancy and the heart, have to me a witchery
beyond all that the strains, even of my native language,
ever possessed. But it is not the present fashion among
the critics, who judge from rule, and do not venture to trust
to the true unbiassed voice of native taste and feeling, to
extol Ariosto, — I mean as compared to Dante, and Petrarch,
and Tasso, and aU these more regularly marchrug poets.
How little must they have ever felt his enchantment I
But it is excess of presumption* in me to oppose their
decision on such a subject, and Ariosto alone can be my
excuse.
The Italian drama, I have already observed, is poor
indeed, compared to ours. Poets out of nimiber have
written plays, but none of them have risen to any name or
reputation, either in or out of Italy, excepting Alfieri and
Goldoni, of whose works you have perhaps already dis-
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2R2 BOKi.
covered that I am not so enthusiastic an admirer as many of
my countrymen.
Italian literature has one great desideratum, that of
noyels. You will stare and tell me of Boccaccio, and all his
tribe of imitators ; but, not to mention their licentiousness,
their novelli are not what we call novels. This will be
sufficiently evident without reading them (which I by no
means counsel you to do), from their size. When a hundred
and one tales go to the making up of an octavo volume, it is
plain they must be of a different species. These are, perhaps,
peculiar to Italy ; but Italy has nothing to put in competi-
tion with the mcomparable Don Quixote and Gil Bias, of
Spain and France; and with these exceptions, England
stands unrivalled in this delightful species of composition,
to which every passing year now adds new and imperishable
treasures.
The style and matter of the periodical publications, more
especially of the critical journals of Italy, are, beyond all
comparison, beneath those of England, and are as remark-
able for their unwearied dulness and verbosity, as ours for
their wit and ability. The restrictions on the freedom of
the press, are doubtless, in a great measure, the cause of this.
So curbed, English journals could scarcely have been much
better.
If literature is not in a very flourishing condition at
Eome, science is still less prosperous. It has ever been the
policy of the Papal government, &om the days of Gralileo to
the present time, to discourage, as much as possible, the
search after truth. A spirit of inquiry, or of philosc^hical
investigation, is that which it most deprecates. Conse-
quently, the few who have any glimmermgs of light upon
such subjects, are glad to hide their talent in a napkin, as if
it were a crime. It is, indeed, true that the study of anti-
3uities is now unprohibited; that there is no longer any
^aul II. to seize upon a whole academy of antiquaries,
throw them chained into dungeons, and put them to the
torture, as conspirators and heretics ; and that the name of
academy may now be pronounced, either in jest or earnest,
without being guilty of heresy.* Abundant use has been
* PaoluB tftmeQ bmrttticQs eos pronuxiciavlt qui nomea Academisd, vel
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NATrBAX ANTIQUITIES. 283
made of this privilege : academies of all kinds and sorts have
been formed; books without end have been written, and
still accumulated discussions daily appear on the hundred-
times-discussed brick walls and other unintelligible frag-
ments of the antiquities of Eome. — ^But the antiquities of
Nature are left unexplored. This term may be allowed me,
for the lavas of the Campagna of Eome, which may be seen
at the Capo di Bove (the tomb of Cecilia Metella), are con-
sidered by geologists to be even of higher antiquity than
those which are found below the foundations of the houses,
and with which the streets are paved at Herculaneum and
Pompeii, and which, therefore, must have been deposited
many ages before the foundation of those cities ; and when
we reflect, that from the earliest records of time, not even
tradition had told of volcanic eruption here, we are startled
at the visible trace of these subterranean fires, which we
know have been extinguished at least during three thousand
years, and are compelled to ascribe the devastating torrents
we behold, to a penod almost coeval with the birth of time.*
The marine shells (bivalves) which are found in immense
number, imbedded in clay, on the summit of Monte Mario,t
twenty miles from the coast, and also on the top of the
Apennines, afford a curious proof that the ocean has had its
changes as well as the land, and that Italy has been inun-
dated vdth torrents of water as well as of fire.
These shells, which are in perfect preservation, are, gene-
rally at Bome, referred to the time of the deluge ; andnow-
ever that may be, when we think of the thousands of years
aerio Tel joco, deinceps commemorarent. — Vide ' Lives of the Popes,' by
Platina (in Paulo II.), or P. L. Guing6ii6 (torn. iii. chap. 21), 'Histoire
liitt^raire d'ltalie,' where I met with this curious statement : — The Pope
had seized Pomponius Lsetus, and his whole Academy of antiquaries, —
Platina himself among the rest, — and after confining them in dungeons
and chains for nearly two years, and torturing them until one died in
the rack, he was compelled virtually to acknowledge their innocence,
by his inability to produce a single proof of their guilt, and at lengUi
liberated them, enacting the above-mentioned sapient law.
* The lavas of the Capo di Bove consist of eighteen different beds,
or strata, forming the most complete and instructive series of volcanic
substances known. They contain lencite, augite, zeolite, and nephelii^
besides a great variety of undescribed substances.
f A steep hill two miles from Rome.
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284 HOME.
tbey have unquestionably lain there, they may, ae well as
the lavaB, safely lay claim to the title I have given them of
natural antiquities.
But the wide field of research which is open to the
naturalist in the vicinity of Rome, is little regarded, except
by a few passing strangers.
I am no botanist, but it is impossible for the eye of a
florist, or of a lover of nature, not to be struck with the
variety and prodigality of beauly which paint the hills, the
woods, and the plains around Eome, when the breath of
spring wakes tne vegetable creation into life. Fields
covered over with patches of purple anemones ; others blue
with hyacinths; others yellow with a pretty species of
ranunculus ; others white with little bulbous-rooted plants,
like crocuses. The cliffs and rocky hills abound in shrubs
similar to the laburnum, but of a mfferent species, and with
Daphnes, Passerinas, and Euphorbiums; the woods with
Primulas, Yerbascums, and Cyclamens. The common daisy
is generalljr found twice as large as in our cottage gardens,
and its crimson tips are infinitely more brilliant. I am
assured by one of our first English botanifets, that the
botanical riches of this country, particularly in the month of
March, and about Albano, La Eiccia, and Velletri, are
scarcely to be equalled in Europe ; and that, excepting the
plain of Grenada, there is no other equal to the Campagna
of Eome; indeed, the fine luxuriant leaves of the plants
that cover it, as well as the rich tints of the flowers, seem to
afford the strongest proof of the excellent quality of the
soil.
" I wish," said a botanist to me one day, carried away by
his enthusiasm for his favourite pursuit, — " I wish I could
give you any idea of the scenes presented every day to a
botanical eye in Italy. Nothing can exceed tne pleasure
and delight which they afford; and whatever may be the
superior beauty of tropical climates, there is one charm
attached to the Itahan plants, of which they can never be
deprived — I mean that many of them are mentioned by
So great is the variety of plants that have rooted them-
selves upon the ancient walls of the Colosseum alone, that
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STATE or BCIEKCX. 285
Sebastiani, the professor of botany at Eome, published a
work in quarto, entitled * Flora Colisea,' in which he describes
260 different kinds that are found there. But I am in-
formed this does not nearly include the whole, which, with
the various sorts of mosses and lichens, amount to upwards
of 300 species. Nearly one quarter of these are papilio-
naceous ; and there are three sorts of hyacinths (one very
beautiful) peculiar to the vicinity of Eome. The remainder
of the plants of the Colosseum are chiefly such as are found
on old walls in the south of Europe.
At Eome, however, the botanical garden is scarcely worth
a visit. The science seems fallen into total neglect, and the
professorship is a sinecure. At Pisa and Padua the plants
are arranged according to the system of Toumefort, not of
LinnsBus. The gardens in both places are very well kept,
and filled with a great variety of beautiful plants ; so also is
the botanical garden at Naples. Many of the finest have
been described, and beautifully portrayed by Dr. Tenore, in
his superb work, the * Flora Neapolitana.' But with this
exception, nothing can be more mert than the spirit of
science at Naples, although one would suppose that the
wonderful phenomena of Nature in its vicinity would rouse
the observation and inquiry, even of the most obtuse minds.
In the north of Italy, on the contrary, amidst its flat, un-
varied, alluvial plains, science and philosophy have of late
made rapid advances, and almost aU the scientific men that .
Italy can boast, are to be found there, particularly at
Bologna and Milan. Many other cities, no doubt, can boast
men of science and erudition ; but Milan, upon the whole,
struck me as being the metropolis of literary talent, as
Borne is of art. Schools, on the Lancasterian plan, have
lately been established there, under the direction of Count
Gonfalonieri, — a decisive sign of the active spirit of improve-
ment which distinguishes this enlightened city.
But Milan is not my theme, nor Modena, — though I
must stop to observe that the celebrated Amici, a native of
that place, has brought the microscope to a wonderful degree
of perfection, and has completely succeeded in conquering
the difficulty of increasing the magnifying power, without
^iminiwliing the light ; £rom which defect in the old micro-
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286 SOME.
scope, the more tlie object was magnified, the more confused
it became, and it was impossible to obtain a perfect image.
In the best of this kind, the light was only 0*0025, but in
his it is as 100 ; and the magn%ing power, which in them
never exceeded 150 times, in his may be increased to 1000
times : while the object, instead of being, as formerly, con-
fused and indistinct, is perfectly clear and defined.
This is effected bv tne rays of light from a bright lamp
being concentrated oy a concaye murror, placed laterally to
the tube, and thrown on the object ; by means of another
concave mirror, of an elliptical form, placed at the extremity
of the tube, and by a small plane mirror at right angles
between them, a magnified and distinct image of the object
is formed in the focus, and is viewed througn a magnifying
lens, of any degree of power.
At Home, however, there are few who are scientific, or
who have even any interest in science. Nor is there a
single museum of natural history, public or private, worth
looking at.
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MABBIAOES AlTD FimiSBALB. 287
LETTEE LXXXV.
CHrLDBIBTH — MiLltBIAaES AlTD FmirBEALS — DxT!(CTSf3t —
Games — Flats, akd Commoit States — Meat —
COOEDBBT — ^FOOD FOB THE OOMMON PeOPLE, &C.
Toxr ask me so many questions, inquire so much about
births, marriages, burials, balls, houses, games, meat, cookeiy,
Michael Angelo, wild boars, and singrug-birds, that I scarcely
know how or where to begin. Some of these questions I
belieye I hare abeady anticipated, and the rest I shall try to
answer as laconically as possible.
It is certainly true that women seem to suffer less in
childbirth in Italy — and I believe in all warm climates,
where the muscles are more relaxed — ^than in England, or
any colder country ; but they hj no means look upon it as a
mere joke, nor is there anything entertaining m it, — ^for
they not unfrequently die. Women of fortune scarcely
ever nurse their children, and babies of all degrees are
most cruelly cased up in swaddling-clothes. As for mar-
riages, you will be shocked to hear that there is a great
proportion of the year in which people cannot marry at all.
The forbidden seasons are from the beginning of Advent till
the seventh day of the new year ; and from the beginning of
Lent till the end of Easter. Besides these stated interreg-
nums, the people voluntarily refrain from marrying on
Friday, — a day which, on account of the Crucifixion, has
been esteemed unlucky in all Christian countries.
The marriage ceremony, I think, differs very little from
that of the Church of England, except in a few signs of the
cross and sprinklings of holy water ; and people are dressed
very fine to look happy, and cry a great deal to look miser-
able ; and make great dinners, wh^h nobody can eat, and
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288 SOME.
receive the congratulations of their friends, which nobody
can like, — just as they do in England.
Burials, however, are conducted after a very different
fashion. In no part of Italy, or any other country, have I
seen such long and lugubrious funeral processions as in
Eome. This custom, however, is confined to the wealthy
citizens, for the lower orders, of course, cannot afford it,
and the nobility, possibly for the same reason, do not prac-
tise it. But when a rich shopkeeper or any of his family
dies, Eome is fiMed with the funeral train. The corpse,
dressed out in gay and splendid' attire, exactly as if going
to a ball, with the cheeks painted, is carried at the close of
evening through the streets on an open bier, attended by
every description of mourners that can be collected, and
invariably followed by hired deputations of friars from at
least three or four different convents, clad in the long peni-
tential garb that covers even the head, with holes cut for
the eyes, chanting the slow and solemn service for the dead.
These dismal sounds, — the long funeral procession that
Bometiiiies fills the Corso as far as the eye can reach, seen
by the lurid glare of the immense wax tapers that are borne
by the mourners, and, more than all, the shocking sight of
the corpse itself, exposed to view, and dressed up, as if in
mockery, with the unseemly decorations of life and vanity,
have an effect upon most people's nerves that is far from
agreeable.
In every respect, — in the open bier, the corpse clad in the
garments of life,* the painted face, the flaming torches,t the
chanted hymns, the hired mourners, J the long procession, —
* Livy (lib. xxxiv.) says that the dead were clothed in the robes of
their oflSce,— exactly as an officer of the Ouarda N chile is now carried
in his bier, in his full-dress uniform, and a Cardinal laid out in his
richest vestments. Juvenal (Sat. 3, 1. 171) observes, that great part of
the people of Italy who never wore the toga when alive, were dressed
in it when dead.
t Persius, Sat. 3, 1. 103. ^n. lib. ii. v. 142, and Ub. ii. v. 144.
• Lucet via longo
Ordine flammarum."
X The PragficcR, or hired mourners, who, however, were women, used
to chant the funeral song. The Romans had also pUyexs and buffooas
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pthsteeai. pbocbssions. 289
in all the pomp and circumstance, — ^tliese modem funerals
remind us of the funerals of the ancient Bomans ; — and it
is curious to see a similitude in such minutiaB after the lapse
of two thousand years, and a change of religion and manners
so complete.
The homrgeoia funeral processions are always on foot, for
carriages at interments are a privilege confined to the no-
bility, whose funerals are sometimes almost as indecent
from the want of proper respect, as those of the plebeians
from the superabundance of parade. In these noble funerals
the body is enclosed, as it snould be, in a coffin ; but this
coffin, instead of being carried in a hearse, or on a bier, is
put into a coach, and being much too long for the vehicle,
one end of it sticks out at one of the windows, while four
piests, who occupy the four corners, chant the service as
fast as ever they can ; the lighted tapers they bear in their
hand, twinkling about and dropping as they go. A few
livery servants, also bearing lights, precede the coach on
foot; and this is all! No sorrowing friends or relations
attend, to their last home, the remains of one whom they
were bound to love and honour. At least in all the funerals
I have seen, including those of members of some of the
most ancient and opulent families of Italy, — ^the Doria, the
Colonna, and the Piano, — ^they were conducted in this man-
ner. The body, whether of prince or plebeian, always lies
all night in the church in which it is to be interred, and is
consigned to the vault the following morning.
When any member of a noble Soman ramily dies, it is
cufitomary to send round billets to all the nobility with
whom he had the slightest acquaintance, to request them
to pray for the soul of the deceased.
we saw the fimeral of a Cardinal the other day. He
was laid out on a sort of large state-bed, in a church,
dressed in his richest robes of state, with diamond buckles
in his shoes, and his face painted so yetj like life, that,
during the whole ceremony, we could not help expecting
to see him get up every moment. After a very long and
peculiar bunal-service, — for Cardinals have one of their
to perfonn their antics before the bier; iw plays were originally tatro*
daced as religioiis ceremonies. Vide Letter XXYI.
TOIi. II. U
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290 liOMS.
own, the Pope, who had ' assisted/ as they call it, that is,
he had sat still and heard it, at last got up, and having
prayed^ or seemed to pray, beside the bed, for the Oardinal's
soul, he walked twice round it, sprinkling it with holy
water,* throwing up clouds of incense, and so the ceremony
ended. The Pope and the Cardinal were each put into
their respective coaches. The Pope went to his present
home to eat his dinner, the Cardinal to his long home,
not to eat, but to be eaten.
I since overheard^ to my great amazement, an old woman
lament herself that her son, who was very iU, had not died
that dqy. On enq^uiry, she told me that a Cardinal always
carries up with him to heaven all those who die between
the period of his death and burial. This accounts for an
old painting I once saw on the mildewed wall of an Italian
church, representing a Cardinal in the act of flying upwards,
with a number of people hanging to his skirts — ^which must
be a very convenient mode of bemg smuggled into heaven.
Home, I think, is the only great city of Italy in which
the abominable practice of burying exclusively in churches
is persisted in. At Naples, and some other places, they do
occasionally inter the great in them ; but stiU they have
the Campo Santo for the mass of the people. At Florence,
and most of the towns in Tuscany, there is a large burying-
ground without the citv ; but of all cemeteries I have ever
seen, that at Bologna pleased me the most. It was formerly
a Certosa convent: the cloister contains the tombs of the
rich ; the central enclosure, the graves of the poor. It is
beautifully kept, a^d, without exception, the cleanest place
in Italy.
Prom burials to balls. What can I tell you of them?
BftUs are much the same all the world over : People put on
gay dresses and faces, and smiles and civility; outwardly
everybody is alike, but inwardly, what different feelings
agitate every heart ! It would be curious to analyse what
degrees of pleasure, pride, anger, hatred, malice, envy, mor-
tification, vanity, ana a thousand other opposing passions,
* The iincient Romans besprinkled the monmeis at funerals with
Instral or holj water three timea^ bat nol^ I believe, the dead body. —
JEoL lib. Vii
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KATIOMFAL BA170SS. 291
go to the making up of every ball, what schemes are in
people's heads, and what thoughts in their hearts ! But I
presume you do not want the morale of it, only the out-
ward show. AU the difference, then, that I can discoTer
between a ball here, and a ball at home, is, that the Italian
ladies have finer jewels, and the English ladies prettier
faces ; that the Italian gentlemen are more easily attracted,
and the English gentlemen better worth attracting; that
here, people eat more ice, and no supper ; and dance more
quadrilles, and no country dances.* They waltz, too, at all
their balls, but not remarkably well. The Germans and
Swedes surpass the rest of the world in the waltz. The
Neapolitans, I thought, almost excelled the French them-
selves in quadrille dancing. There was no exertion, no
effort, no showing off. It was the most easy and natural,
yet smooth and graceM motion in the world.
I have never seen the Tarantella, that extraordinary dance
that is supposed to be involuntarily caused by the bite of
the tarantula, and to work its cure ; but it may be doubted
whether this dance be really independent of volition or
not ; for as the tarantula is found all over Italy, it is proba-
ble that it sometimes bites people in other places ; yet it
ia only at Naples that they are seized with this dance;
and even there, it is not to be supposed that it always
refrains from putting its fangs into the bodies of the higher
•orders ; yet none of them are ever attacked with it.
The lower class of Eomans, I think I told you, are no
great dancers: except at the conclusion of the vintage,
when they come into Eome like a set of Bacchanals, dan-
cing, leapmg, bearing torches, and playing on musical instru-
ments ; and at the Bacchanalian sports which ensue, at that
period, on Monte Testaccio, little dancing goes forward.
The Saltarello, as its name implies, is a dance of great
action, and is, for the most part, confined to the Trasteve-
rini. I have already mentioned the Morra, and the Buzzica,
and some other games, chiefly practised amongst them,
which seem to be of ancient Koman origin. There is also
the JPallone, a game at ball, common, I believe, throughout
* The old Bnglifih dance was not then (1820) exploded in
Kngland;
r 2
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Italy, and played by two parties, who throw the paUone,
or great leathern ball, from one to another, by means of the
hracciale, a wooden instrument covered with knobs, in which
they thrust their arms. It seems to be very similar to the
game of ball, which the Eoman philosophers of old used to
practise by way of exercise and amusement. There is also
a game of foot-baU among the modem Italians, called Caldo,
which I have never seen.
The people here live in flats, and have a common stair, as
in Edinburgh ; a plan by no means confined to that much
vilified ciiy, or even to this — but common throughout
France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. Though by no means
conducive to cleanliness or comfort, it is highly favourable
to grandeur of appearance, and architectural effect : for by
this means the houses are built upon so much larger a scale,
that their exterior is susceptible of fine design and orna-
ment ; and even when plain, or in bad taste, it is scarcely
possible they should not have a more noble air than the
mean, paltry, little rows of houses in England and Holland,
where everybody must have one of his own. It is the office
of a mason to build these rows of plain walls with holes for
doors and windows in them, that constitute the houses in
English towns ; but it is that of the architect to erect them
on the Continent.
There is one peculiarity of the flats of Eome, which
(thank Heaven!) cannot be found in Edinburgh. As you go
up a comipion stair here, you observe a square grating in
every door. Knock at one of them — somebody comes,
uncloses ths wooden shutter that covers it, and eyes you
suspiciously through the bars before he ventures to open it
—and this at noonday ! Wherever you live in Eome, you
must be content to live on a common stair. If your abode
be a palace, it will be the same thing. The most you can
hope for is a prvmo or secondo piano to yourself. Lodgings
for single gentlemen, or smsul families, abound; upon a
larger scale, it is more diflicult to find accommodation. On
the whole, however, th^ are tolerably commodious, and by
no means exorbitant. Living is very good throughout Italy,
in large towns ; miserably b^ in the country. Tor instance,
you are sure to find plenty of milk and butter in a cit^, but
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ITALIAN COOKEET. 293
none amidst fields and fann-houses. Eome is well suppKed
with good cow's milk and cream, and butter. Asses, too,
are brought to your door morning and evening, to be milked
if you choose it, — a great advantage to invaEds ; but cows
do not perambulate the streets here, as at Naples, for that
purpose, with bells to their necks.* Butcher-meat at Eome
IS plentiful, but not cheap. The price is kept up by the
absurd interference of GTovemment. Beef is good, but, by
a curious prejudice, it is very little used at the tables of the
higher orders, being considered a coarse, gross kind of food,
only fit for the vulgar — ^and the English. Veal is accounted
a delicagr ; it is dear, and what in England would be called
bad. Mutton is not good here, nor in any part of Italy.
Pork is thought very fine. Kid is much used, and is sweet
and delicate, but as inferior to lamb, as goat's fiesh is to
mutton. The fish is not remarkably good. Gtane is
abundant, cheap, and excellent. Q-eese are not eaten at all.
Pigeons are large, strong-fiavoured, and not unlike ducks.
In fact, neither meat nor poultry are so good in any part of
the Continent as in England. The Erench cooks certainly
excel ours — perhaps because the meat is worse; just as
Scotland produces the best gardeners, having the worst soil
and climate. Italian cookery, however, in large towns, is
reasonably good. In country inns, jou must expect to be
poisoned with oil and garlic, in spite of all your precau-
tionary prohibitions against olio and (wlio;'\ but this is of
less consequence, because, in these places, there is seldom
anything to cook.
At Eome, strangers who live in private lodgings, generally
have dinners sent home to them from a trattoria in the
Piazza di Spagna. The dishes are all conveyed in a large
basket, lined with tin, with a little stove or iron heater
inside; so that they are quite hot, and very good — ^but
certainly not cheap, for they are very scanty in quantity, and
* When at Kaples, I was astonished to find that the milk, which was
drawn from the cow at the door, was so thin and blue. At last it was
discovered that the milkman had contrived to adulterate it with water,
which he carried in a bladder mider his cloak, although constantly
watched by our servant.
t Oil and garlick.
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cost ten pauls, or about &ve shiUings, per Kead, without wine,
bread, or dessert.
Some English families, whose lodgiogs had the lare
appendage of a kitchen, tried the plan of haying dinner
dressed at home, but their cooks cheated them so umnerci-
fullj, that they were nearly ruined ; they then made a con-
tract with them, and were nearly starved.
But English habits and acccoomodations must necessarily
spread rapidly throughout Italy, with the unceasing torrent
of English traveUers and English wealth which pours into it.
The indux of strangers, indeed, into this countiy is astonish-
ing, but they are aU fix)m the north of Europe. No
Spaniards or Portuguese, and very few Erench, are to be
seen. But Germans, Swedes, Foles^ Bussians, and more
especially English, descend from the Alps in such numbers,
that Borne seems in danger of another invasion of the
Goths. Americans too — men from a world imknown to
the Eomans — may be seen gazing at the ruined monuments
of their power and grandeur.
** Qu8B tarn seposita est, qnse gens tam barbani, Caesar,
£z qua spectator non sit in arbe toA V *
The lower orders certainly live upon very little in Italy.
It is only at Naples that macaroni is the food of the people.
At Rome, and in most parts of Italy, polenta, a sort of
pudding made of Indian com, is the principal article of
subsistence: probably the same as the polenta of the
ancients.t This is varied with the luscious pods of the
caruba tree ; J the ahnond-tasfced kernels in the cones of the
spreading pine-tree ; different sorts of fruits, particularly
roasted chesnuts, which, in the mountainous parts of the
country, the people almost live upon; and various kinds of
beans, lupins, and lentils. Of course, in all places they eat
bread — ^when they can get it ; and cheese, sausages, Ac., are
universally liked. Indeed, these, with salt-^Mi (haecaU^
and .soup (minestra), made chiefly of boiled meat or maca-
roni and water, and mixed with a little grated cheese, are
* Martial.
t Pliny, Hist Nat. lib. xviiL cap. 7.
t According to tradition, the tree upon which Judas hanged himself.
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BOBDB HABITS. 295
their luxuries. But the thin, sour, ordinary wine of the
country, is indispensable to them ; and, truth to say, in the
heat of summer, it is far from being an unpleasant beverage.
It is considered at its perfection in a year — * Vino d' un'
anno' is proverbially good.
Sobriety is a national virtue here, as in most warm
climates ; and indeed no quantity of such wine can intoxi-
cate ; but the Italians, of all ranks, are fond of rosolio and
other liqueurs, though they scarcely ever drink them to
excess. The abstemious habits of the Italians render
seasons of scarcity, when they do occur, peculiarly dreadful.
In the consumption of a people who already hve upon as
little as wiU support human nature, no reduction can be
made. Hence scarcity is synonymous With famine.
The common oaths in this coimtry have such a classical
sound that they do not offend your ears. The people swear
hy Bacchus, either *per Bacco!' — *Corpo di Bacco!' or
* Cospetto !' (by the presence of Bacchus) : — or else they
swear by Nero, who stands them instead of the devil; —
althougn they by no means refrain, like other Christians,
'from invoking, personally, that much-caUed-for personage.
It is the umversal, and extremely disagreeable custom all
over Italy, for the lower orders to kiss the hands of their
superiors, — ^a custom, by the way, which seems to have come
down frx)m the ancients, for there are frequent allusions to
it in the classics.*
^e infatuation of the lower Orders for the never-ceasing
lotteries which go on here, is inconceivably pernicious to
their industry and morals, and brings misery and ruin upon
thousands. Too dften the last necessary of life, taken from
a starving family, i& pawned at the Monte di Fieta to pur-
chase a lottery-ticket. The scene at the drawing of the
lotteries here, maiy be a study for the paiuter or the philo-
sopher, but it is a painful sight for a man.
These MbnU di Fieta, — ^these pawnbroking and banMnff
concerns, which are instituted in every city of Italy, are said
to carry on rather a lucrative traffic, though I understand
* I hftve met with eevetal, but can only at this moment instance
one : — Tacitns (Ann. lib. i. cap. 34) says the soldiers flocked round
Oermanicus, eager to kiss his hands on Ms return to the cainp.
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their prooeedings are equitable, and their tendency chari-
table. They lend money on pledges, or on proper security,
on established conditions, tor a certain period, without
interest ; but at the expiration of the stipulated term, the
pledge or security, if unredeemed, is forfeited, unless a fixed
rate of interest be paid upon the loan.
Such an establishment, if conducted, by a respectable com-
pany in England, might perhaps protect the property of the
poor firom the rapaciousness of unprinciplea pawnbrokers,
and the property of the rich from aepredation, by shutting
up one great channel for the disposal of stolen goods. If
conducted with the same secrecy and honour as in Italy,
many an unfortunate being might receive, upon equitable
terms, timely aid, whose honest pride cannot brook the igno-
miny of an open application to a pawnbroker.
But to return to your queries. Of Michael Angelo you
have heard, by this tune, I am sure, more than enough. Of
wild boars there are great abundance, but of singing-birds
very few. The * songsters of the grove ' are generally eaten
up ; not that the Itauans are quite so unmerciful to them as
the French, who would make no scruple of baking " four-
and-twenty nightingales aU in a pie, if they could get
them ; but still they do occasionally make a classical dinner
upon thrushes ; or, in defeult of better, string a dozen cock-
robins on one little spit.
The wild boars abound among the Sabine Hills and the
wild country around them. The peasants shoot them, and
bring them to market at Eome. Their flesh is firm, dark,
high-flavoured, and delicious ; as different as possible from
pork, both in appearance and taste. Vegetables are the
greatest desideratum at an Italian table. In towns they are
scarce and far fi^m good; in the country there are none.
And this must arise from the indolence of the people ; for in
such a climate and soil as this, with good management, they
might have the finest vegetables of aU kinds, all the year
round.
The indolence of the Italian character, indeed, is the
feature that, from first to last, forces itself most strongly on
the stranger's notice. No doubt this is in a great measure
to be ascribed to the climate ; but it also pardy arises from
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IKDOLEIfCB AIO) DISHOITBSTT. 297
the government, the institutions, and above all — ^the religion
of the country. Wherever the Eoman Catholic religion is
established, 1 have uniformly observed indolence, with its
concomitants, dirt and beggary, to prevail; and the more
Catholic is the place, the more do they abound. Spain and
Portugal, and Italy and Ireland, might be quoted as examples;
and in going &om the Protestant to the Eoman Catholic
cantons of Switzerland, the change uniformly struck us.
There is another and more powerful cause in Italy for the
indolence of the people, — the constitution of socieiy. It is
framed so as to hold every man in the situation in which he
is bom. There are barriers he can never pass. "Wealth,
even if he can get it, will not give him that for which it is
most sought — ^respect and importance ; and I must say, that
if a man does become rich m Italy (a rare occurrence!),
it is generally by knavery, by iniquity, by the most nefa-
rious practices ; not by honourable industry, integrity, and
good conduct. That they might become rich by these
means, I do not doubt ; on the contrary, I think, in thus
continuaUy labouring to cheat others, they often cheat them-
selves, and that they would find " honesty the best policy,"
if they could be persuaded to try it ; but it is certain that
men in Italy do sometimes make large fortunes by practices
that, in England, would lead them to the gaUows.
In England everything is open to talent, merit, and
enterprise : in Italy everything is closed. A man, by his
own personal exertions, scarcely can expect to make himself
other than he is. Thus the powerful stimulus of hope is
taken off; and can we wonder at the paralysing effect ?
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BOIO.
LETTEE LXXXVI.
ItALIAJT SoTJLPTOBS — CaJTOVA— ThOEWALDBBK — SCHADOW
— Mosaics and Cambos — Models — Woeks ts the
Pbsoious Mbtals, etc.
EoME indisputably possesses both the first ancient and
modem school of scnlptiire. The incomparable Museums
of the Vatican, the Capitol, and the Tilla Albani, have
drawn around them those great artists whose genius far
surpasses aU that the world has seen since the days of
Michael Angelo and John of Bologna, and, in the judg-
ment of many, even soars above those celebrated masters.
The first of these, both in fame and merit, is Canova.
To him the renovation of modem taste, which had fallen
into the most woeful corruption through the tortuous labours
of Bernini and his wretched imitators, must be attributed.
He restored the study of the fine forms of Nature and of
the Antique ; and sought, in these true sources of beauty,
for that purity of taste, and that chastened simplicity and
S ace, which can alone make the works of the artist live,
e first had the merit of striking into the long-neglected
path, and even if others should outstrip him in it, they
must own him for their guide. In one great branch » of the
art, that of basso-rilievo, he is unquestionably surpassed by
Thorwaldsen (of whose works I shall speak hereaJfter), but
it is the brancn in which Canova is remarkably deficient. I
should say his bassi-rilievi are positively bad.
Canova was bom at Passagno, a small viUag^e in the
Venetian territory, of parents whose poverty disabled them
from giving to the genius his earliest youth displayed, the
usual cultivation or encouragement. But he resolutely
stmggled with every difficulty, and finally triumphed over
hismte.
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ITALIAir SOULPTOBS. 290
At the age of fotirteen, Having obtained the long-wished-
for boon of a small piece of marble, he sculptured out of it
two baskets of fruit, which are now on the staircaae of the
Palazzo Farsetti, at Venice.
The next year, when only fifteen, he executed Eurydice,
his first statue, in a species of soft stone, caHled pietra dolee,
found in the vicini^ of Vicenza; and, three years after,
•Orpheus; both of which are in the Villa Falier, near Asolo,
a town about fifteen miles from Treviso.
His first group in marble, that of Bsedalus and Icarus,
he finished at the age of twenty, and brought with him to
.Borne, where he vainly solicited the patronage of the
Venetian ambassador and many of the great; but when
almost reduced to despair, without money or friends, he
became known to Sir "William Hamilton, whose discern-
ment immediately saw the genius of the young artist, and
whose liberahty furnished him with the means of prose-
cuting his studies, and of establishing himself as an artist
in Home. To this, his firat patron, and to all his family,
Canova has tiirough life manifested the wannest grati-
tude.
Through Sir "William Hamilton his merits became known
to others ; even the Venetian ambassador was shamed into
some encouragement of his young countryman, and ordered
the group of Theseus and the Minotaur. A few years after,
Canova was einployed to execute the tomb of Pope Qtin-
ganelli, in the Church of the SS. Apostoli at Eome. "With
these exceptions, all his early patrons were Englishmen.
Amongst these were Lord Cawdor, Mr. Latouche, and
Sir Henry Blundell, for the latter of whom the Psyche,
one of the earliest and most beautiful of his works, was
executed.
In the bewitching grace and softness of feminine beauty,
and the playful innocence of childhood, Canova excels a^
others — and even himself; for in the heroic style he cer-
tainly does not soar so high. His heroes either border on
effeminacy, like his Perseus ; or fly into extravaffance, like
.his Hercules. Tet, with all their faults, his works in this
style are conceptions of true genius. The idea is bold and
grand; biit we feel that he has ovenihot his mark. He has.
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300 ftOHXi
got out of Nature, in attempting to rise above it ; an J tlie
eye that has been accustomed to the chaste design and
correct forms of ancient art, must be hurt with their glaring
defects.
Indeed, it is luireasonable to suppose that any one
artist, of whatever powers, should excel in departments so
opposite. One might as well expect that Michael Angelo,
whose genius, by the way, is the very antipodes of that of
Canova, should have produced Ms smiling Hebes, volup^
tuous Venuses, and dancing Nymphs ; that Albani should
have pourtrayed the gloomy anchorites and martyrdoms
of Caravaggio and Spagnoletto ; Salvator Eosa painted the
warm sunshines of Cuyp; or Pindar written the epic
poems of Homer ; as that Canova, who can call forth at
will the most bewitching forms of female beauty and grace,
should excel in an Ajax or a Hercules.
Canova' s sepulchral monuments, too, for the most part,
seem to me to have a heaviness and want of interest.
GHiere is one, indeed, erected to the Marchesa di Santa
Croce, if I mistake not, of uncommon merit ; particularly
the bent figure of the old man advancing to the tomb,
contrasted with that of the child. But, with few excep-
tions, we feel these monuments have been a labour to hia
fancy, and they are rather a toil to us : — ^for whether Italy
weeps over the tomb of Alfieri, — ^Eome writes on a tablet,
' — Padua's castellated head meditates over nothing, — or
Religion looks clumsy on the tomb of Eezzonico, — ^we turn
wearied from their contemplation, and from the expression
of the unmeaning lisp of admiration which habit or polite-
ness draws forth, to the bright and immortal creations of
his genius, — ^to his Hebe, his Yenus, his dancing Nymphs,
his mfant Loves, and his laughing Q-races.
Of these, his Hebe,* which he has four times repeated
with variations, is, perhaps, the most universally admired.
I camiot, however, approve of the gold necklace with which
the last is adorned ; not even the sanction of antiquity can
ever reconcile me to decorations so unsuited to sculpture.
"We know the practice of some of the greatest masters of
* Of all statues, Hebe is the rarest. I never saw it in ancient
sculpture, and I believe it is only to be found upon one Grecian gem.
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WOEKS OF CAirOTA. 301
Greece may be adduced, not only for necklaces, and ear-
Tings, and ornaments of all kinds in cold and precious
stones, — ^but for painted cheeks; and that the honour of
being rouged was more particularljr reserved for the statues
of Jupiter.* Certainly the descriptions handed down to
us of the famous colossal ivory-and-gold Jupiter Olympius
with painted cheeks, and the equally celebrated ivory Pallas
with gems set for eyes — do not seem to promise much
beauty, even fh)m the hands of Phidias. I^ however, this
painting of statues was introduced in the vain attempt to
create a nearer approach to living nature, the objects of
sculpture seem to have been stnmgely mistaken and de-
based. Most certainly they do not consist in the close
imitation of life ; for, m that case, a common raree-show of
wax-work would exceed the finest sculpture of Phidiafl.
Upon what principle this custom can be reconciled to true
taste, I am at a loss to understand. To me it seems about
as bad as the Gothic custom of investing painted heads with
real crowns.
The Venus coming out of the Bath,t in all its fourfold
repetitions, varies, in some points, from the original ; and
the last, destined for Lord Lansdowne, and perhaps the
most beautiM of them all, is, in &ct, a new statue.
But Canova's own favourite was the Venus Victorious,
under which the beautified portrait of Napoleon's sister,
the Princess Pauline, was represented ; and this, I think I
before told you, is withheld from view by its possessor.
. Perhaps the most beautiful of all his works, — the Venus
and Adonis,^ — ^was finished at the age of six-and-thirty.
This exquisite group, in my opinion, £ar surpasses the Mars
and Venus, executed for the Prince Begent, and which was
intended to represent Peace and "War — ^but it is not suffi-
ciently chaste or severe for such a subject ; the expiression
is too voluptuous, — a fault, by the way, with which the
* Cicero, lib. viii. Ep. 20. Winkehnan, Hist de I'Art, lib. i, cap. 2,
sect. 2. Pliny also mentions that the statue of Jupiter Capitolinus was
rouged on festivals.
t Originally done by GanoTa for the Galleiy of Florence, when it
was robbed of the Yenns de Medicis, and now in the Palazzo PittL
;( In the palace of the Harchfse Berio, at Naples.
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d02 BOMS.
works of this great artist are sometimes chargeable. "Yet
it is a beautifiu group, and if considered merely as Yenus
hanging on the enamoured God of War, the expression is •
appropriate and fibultless. As jet, it has not adyaiiGed
beyond the model, and there seems little prospect of its ■
bem^ soon finished. Three blocks of marble have already
failed, after the labour was considerably advanced, owing
to the blemishes in the heart of them, and the fourth is
about to be tried.*
The beautiM figure of the Beclining Nymph, half-raising
herself to listen to the lyre of the sweet little Love at her
feet, is on the point of being despatched to the Prince
Ee^nt, to whom it was ceded by Lord Cawdor.
The group of the Graces, the beauty of which is the
object of universal admiration here, is also destined for our
country, and will adorn Wobum Abbey. Beautiful as it
is, I own it struck me as being rather maniere, esneciaUy
in the attitude and face of the central figure, wnich is
chargeable with somewhat of affectation, somewhat of.
studied opera-house airs and put-on sweetness of counte-
nance. But as Zeuxis said of one of his own paintings,
'* It is easier to criticise than to imitate it ;" and it is with
reluctance I see any faults in a work which has rarely been
equalled in modem art, and the progress of which I have
long watched with unspeakable interest and delight. It is
only a few days since i saw the finishing strokes given to
it by the hand of Canova.
Perhaps you may have no very clear idea of the progress
of a sculptor in his work ; at least, I find that many of my
countrjnmen, whom I have introduced to Canova' s studio,
had previously supposed that his custom was to fall upon
a block of marble, and chisel away tDl he had made it into
a statue. Forgive me for the improbable supposition that
you should be in such an error ; but let me explain, that
a sculptor begins upon much more ductile materials than
marble. He forms his model in clay, and this is generally
(iand ought to be always) entirely the work of his own
hands ; but before he begins, the statue is perfectly ideato —
the visionary figure is before him.
♦ In 1818.
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CANOVA. 303
"When finislied, a cast is taken from it by his asBistants,
which is dotted over with black points at regular intervals to
guide the workmen. Erom this model they begin to work,
and having reduced the block of marble into form, and made
it a rough-hewn statue, the sculptor himself resumes his
labours. The exterior surface, as it were, is his to form
and perfect, and the last finishing touches he generally
gives Dy candle-light. It is afterwards polished with pumice
stone.
This is the invariable process. Many are the delightful
hours I have spent with Canova, both when he has been
employed in modelling and chiselling; and few are the
companions whose society will be enjoyed with such interest
or remembered with such regret.
The warmth and kindness of his disposition, the noble
principles and generous feelings of his mmd, and the unpre-
tending simplicity of his manners, give the highest charm to
his exalted genius. By the friends th^t know him best, he
will be the most beloved.
Canova has the avarice of fame, not of money. He
devotes a great part of his fortune to the purposes of
benevolence. "With the title of Marchese, the Pope con-
ferred upon Canova three thousand piastres per annum, the
whole 01 which he dedicates to the support and encourage-
n^ent of poor and deserving artists. But I should never be
done, were I to recount one-half of the noble actions, the
generous exertions, and the extensive charities of his life,
which are as secretly and unostentatiously performed, as
judiciously applied. He is now building a church in his
native village, and has aUenated the greater part of his own
fortune for the support of charitable institutions.
It is not, I beheve, generally known, that Canova is a
painter as well as scidptor. He has pursued the sister art
occasionally, for the amusement of his leisure hours, and
xnaOT of his designs are truly beautiful.
The Colossal Horse (a noble animal), originally intended
for Napoleon's equestrian statue, is about to be mounted by
the figure of old King Perdinand of Naples.
It must be a gratifying circumstance to England to knoWj
that even when living under the immediate dominion of the..
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804 BOME.
French, be modelled, for bis own private pleasure, a tribute
to the memory of Nelson.
He is at present occupied in modelling a statue of Wash-
ington for the United States. The hero is represented
seated, but is not yet finished, so I must not speak of it ;
especially as I am at present the only person who has been
honoured with a sight of it. I may add, that it promises
to be worthy of the subject and the sculptor.
The seated statue of the Princess Esterhazy is full of
grace and dignitjr, and worthy of ancient art. That of
Maria Louisa, which, however, reminds us strongly of the
seated Agrippina, is also very fine : I mean the copy, with
an ideal head ; for her own features are wholly inamnissible
in sculpture. She would have done wisely to have been
taken in a moment of affliction, her fiice buned in her hand*
kerchief, or mantle.
The figure of the Penitent, or Magdalen, is most beautiM.
It proves he could pouitray the touching image of youth
in all the abandonment of settled sorrow, as beautimUy as
youth in all the buoyancy of sportive mirth.
But if I were to enumerate all Canova*s masterpieces, and
all his merits, I might write a volume.*
The rival of Canova is ThorwaJdsen, a Danish artist,
whose genius has already borne him through every obstacle,
and far beyond every other competitor (Canova excepted)
to the head of his aft ; whose statues must be ranked next
to those of Canova ; and whose bassi-rilievi surpass all that
has been given to the world since the brightest era of
Grecian art.
His greatest work, the Triumph of Alexander the Grreat,
was ordered by Napoleon, for a frieze to ornament a chamber
* Since the publication of the earlier editions of this work, the
world has been deprived of this celebrated and exemplary man,
whose character presented a union of genius and of virtue, rarely
equalled. All may be the judge of his works; but few can know, as I
did, the noble qualities of his mind, the honour, the delicacy, the
generosity of his spirit, and the warm oyerflowing afiections which
endeared him to the hearts of his friends. Some more able biographer
will do justice to his worth, but I cannot withhold this humble tribute
of heartfelt respect to the memory of one whom I have known so well,
and moomed so truly.
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ALEXAin>£B's TBIT7MPH. 305
of the Quirroal Palace (in wWcli the plaster east is now put
Tip) ; but before it was sculptured, the career of the emperor
was run; and the present government, with crippled re-
sources, and an overpowering priesthood, could not afford to
lavish monev on a work of taste ; so that Thorwaldsen was
in despair of ever giving to his masterpiece the durability
of marble ; when, only a few days ago, the liberaHty of a
private iadividual, Count Sommariva (an Italian nobleman),
gave him the long-wished-for order.
I^othiDg can surpass many parts of this &ieze. I may
iiistance Alexander m his car of triumph ; but, as a whole, it
has, perhaps, been drawn into too great length; there is
occasionally a paucily of subject, a want of variety, of action,
and of figures of high interest, which give it an air of
poverty. A flock of sheep, extended over a space of many
feet, for example, is wearisome alike to the eye and to the
mind. Modem artists, indeed, labour under an immeasur-
able disadvantage in having all their fine models in art, not
in nature. They cannot, fike the ancients, imitate the ob-
jects, the modes, the costumes, that are for ever in their eye,
in all their happy accidental combinations ; they must turn
from life to inanimate marble, and coldly copy from it, in
fisunt transcript, the ancient car, the classic pomp, the laurel
crown, the heroic armour, the graceful flowing roTbes. What
sort of figure would our coadies, our coats and neckcloths,
our boots and spurs, or our military uniforms with cocked
hat and feather, make in sculpture ?
The constant exhibitions of the finest youthful forms, in
the athletic games, and the Hberty of designing their great
men in the nude or heroic style, were amongst the many
great advantages the ancients possessed over the modems.
Still, however, the female form, with its variable draperies,
is almost as well adapted to statuary as ever ; for tnough
^shion has rendered its habitual attire totally unfit lor
sculpture, its flowing robes are so much more tractable than
male costume, that they may be considered at the disposi-^
tion of the artist ; and accordingly we find that all the great
artists of the present day have succeeded best in female
figures.
.The busts of some of my fair countrywomen, with their
TOL. II. X
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306 BOIOB.
hair dressed, aocordmg to their own express desire, in the
extreme of the present stiff and unnatural French fashion,
sometimes draw a smile, as thej catch one's eye in the
studU of Soman artists, heside the dassic models of a Vestal
or an Agrippina. The female husts of certain periods of
the empire, however, will, at least, match them in the extra-
Ta^mce and u&;liness of their weU-wigged head-dresses.
Independent of hair and fashion, however, the men of our
country make far finer husts than the young ladies, whose
small delicate features were never meant for marble.
The finest bust I have seen in Bome is that of Lord
Byron, by Thorwaldsen ; though perhaps it is to the subject
rather than the execution thi^ it owes its superior excel-
lence. Certainly, neither Thorwaldsen nor Canova, in this
branch of art, surpasses our own Chantrey.
Thorwaldsen' s exquisite and poetic rihevo of Night has
rarely been equalled in any age. The Forging of Achilles'
Armour has ori;en been taken by connoisseurs for one of the
finest productions of ancient art, and many of his sepulchral
bassi-nlievi are pre-eminently beautiful. One, in particular,
to the memory of a Gbrmaa youth who fell in battle, struck
me with peculiar admiration. His &.mily are hanging over
him in every attitude of deep and speechless woe; his
brother bears in his hand the crown won by his valour ; and
the Genius of Life, bending over his inanimate form, seems
to mourn the extinguished torch, whose brightness he has
been compelled to quench.
Of his statues — the Adonis is one of the first, and most
beautiful of his works. The Mars, though wonderfully fine,
is, perhaps, scarcely equal to it. The Shepherd Boy, seated
on a rock, is supremely beautiM — ^fuU of grace and expres-
sion. His Mercury, his Yenus^ and his Jason — ^the earliest
of his works — are admirable; but I should never have
finished were I to describe the one-half of the beautifiil
sculptures which I have gazed upon a thousand times with
unwearied delight in Thorwaldsen s studio.
He is now employed in modelling a beautiful figure of
,Hope, the idea of which waQ, perhaps, suggested by the
smeul mutilated statue among the Egma Marbles, though I
do not fear contradiction in asserting i^ this is infinitely
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BODOLFH SGHADOir. 307
finer ; in passing iliroagli Hs inimd, lie lias given the idea a
beau^ and orig&ality that stamp it all his own.
Slie is represented, as in the original, bearing in her hand
a budding pomegranate flower ; me seems to see in fancnr
the time when its bloom shall fiilly expand, and its rich
fruit be matured. I marvel that an image flo lovely and
natural did not more frequently suggest itself to the poet's
fancy. It is to Greece, after all, that we owe everything of
taste and imagination.
I feel that, in this imperfect sketch, I have done little
justice to the merit of this truly great genius, who has come
from the frozen shores of Icelgmd* to the land of arts, to
astonish the natives of her brilliant cHme, with works that
might have done honour to her earlier days.
If those works were better known in our own country,
they would not need my humble tribute of applause, to
speak their excellence or dwell his fame. But that must
rapidly increase, and ^^rill be immortal. More competent
judges may appreciate more highly and more justly his
merits ; but none can better know and estimate the sensitive
modesty and sensibility, the warm genei^osity, and the rare
and estimable virtues of his character.
The sculptor who ranked third in eminence at Eome,
when this woA was published, was Eodolph Schadow, a
native of Pnissiai an artist of fine genius, whose career of
high early promise has since been cut short by a premature
death.
By far the most beautifrd of his Works, among^ many
extremely beautiful, -v^as the Mlaince, a female figui*e of
singular delicacy and gi'ace, sitting and Winding a golden
thread upon a spindle. The greatest artists of antiquity
might have been proud 6f this adniirable production.
Another of his woi*ks wag almost eqiially admired, the liljtle
girl, just issuing from the bath, tying her sandal upoA
her slender foot, whi6h recalled to mind the 'vt^ell-known
statue in the Florentine gallery, in a similar attitude.
Perha|is indeed in this, and in some ofiiers of hit^ wbrk's,
he approached rather too closely to individiial models of
* The fathw of Thorwaldsen was an Icelander, who settled at
Copenhagen.
X 2
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308 BOMS.
Grecifln art — ^for the general spirit ean never be too eloselj
preserved; but he was quite as close an imitator of the
beauiy as the forms of ancient sculpture, and I know not
how £gher praise can be ^ven to any modem artist.
It is singular that Bodolph Schadow, and almost all the
great modem sculptors, excelled in the female form ; whilst
the reyerse of this remark applies to modem painters.
These three great names, Ganova^ Thorwaldsen, and
Schadow, stood pre-eminent in feune among the crowd of
artists of Some, among whom many of our own countrymen
■^G-ibson especnally — ^were of distinguished merit. Another
highly interesting artist was the Signora Teresa Benin-
campe, whose beautiful bust of GsBsina^ and many of her
other works, were uniyersaUy admired.
In busts, however, Chantrey, I think, equalled, nay,
excelled, all foreign artists, and had he enjoyed their inesti-
mable advantages of living among the masterpieces of
ancient sculpture, and drinking in their beauties at every
glance and at every moment, I have no doubt he would have
rivalled them in the higher departments of sculpture— even
in the ideal. But before his genius was fuUy matured, it
unfortunately met in England with an excess of patronage —
far more detrimental than its deficiency. An immense
demand for the unripened fruits of £;emus tends to force
the quantity of produce, before the plant, by slow growth,
with time and care, has reached its vigour. Thus a manu-
factory of busts and figures is produced, instead of the
masterpieces of a sculptor.
But sculpture demands those means and opportunities of
study and cultivation which England cannot afford. This,
indeed, is the true school of art. If there be any taste or
talent, it must develop itself h^e.
The painters were scarcely inferior in number to the
sculptors of Bome, but infinitely fio in excellence. Gamuc-
cini, who then ranked highest, and many others, are now
dead; and amongst the whole tribe not one historical
painter has risen U> fame; nor has one great or even good
landscape painter ever appeared in Italy.
It is wonderM, that, in a country where the soft lights,
tiie harmonious tints, and the bright aerial hues of the sky,
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MOSAIC lOiraPAOTOBY. 809
slied enchantment over every object, and make every scene
a picture, the artist can fail to excel, where he has only to
copy nature. Yet through Italy, France, and the whole
of the continent, we may search in vain for anything like
excellence in landscape painting. To portrait painting, the
same remark applies. There is not, in either branch of the
art, an artist at present in the world to compare with our
own.
The engravers of Bome have made themselves so justly
celebrated by their works, that they do not require my
feeble tribute of praise. Yet some of our engravers at
home would not suffer by a comparison with any here. But
it is invidious to quarrel about degrees of excellence, where
aU are so good.
In this, as in most other branches of art, we see that
Eome is the nurse, rather than the mother of genius. It
is her adopted children who form her glory.
There are many minor fine arts practised at Eome, which
are whoUy unknown in England. The most remarkable of
them is the Mosaic MaauKictory, upon which I believe I
have touched before. It was about to be removed into a
vacant Palazzo, which was, when I left Italy, preparing for
its reception ; but was then carried on in the palace of the
Holy Office at Eome, from which the Inquisition was ousted
by the French, and into which it was destined to be
reinstated by the Papal government. Indeed, the papers
and archives belongmg to it were then conveyed back
into some of the vacant chambers of this immense
building.
The Inquisition at Eome has always been remarkable for
its mildness ; and, compared with the horrible and tyran-
nical iniquity of the same tribunal at Venice and Madrid, it
deserves the epithet of lenient. Nothing, however, can
alter its nature, or make a court, whose proceedings are
secret, whose decision is absolute, whose information is
derived from insidious spies, whose accusers are concealed,
and imconfronted with the accused, whose judges are not
accountable, and who can inflict imprisonment and torture
to any extent on the unconvicted ; nothing can make such
an institution as this anything but an execrable and diar
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810 BOHX.
bolical engine of cnielty, injustice, ^d oppression, worthy
of the invention of Lucifer himself.
But I have got into a passion, and into the Inquisition,
instead of the Mosaic Manufactory. It is carried on under
the direction and at the cost of government ; and its fruits
are theirs. The workmen are constantly employed in copy-
ing paintings for the altar-pieces of churches. I grieved to
see such as Camuccini*s, tnough one of his best, the In-
creduhty of St. Thomas, copying at this immense expense,
when the works of the first masters are fast mouldering
away on the walls of forgotten churches. They wiU soon
be lost for ever ; it is yet possible to render them imperish-
able by means of mosaic copies ; and why is it not done ?
The French, at Milan, set an example of this, by copying,
in mosaic, the Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinci ; although
they signalized their bad taste by copying a bad copy of it.
But it was thieir pl^i^ to dp much for Milan, and nothing
for Eome ; and the invaluable frescos of Michael Angelo,
Baphael, Domenichino, and Guide, were, and are left to
pensh here. It never has seemed any object to the Papal
government to copy the paintiags that are perishing, and
very many of those that have been executed in mosaic are
in no danger of being destroyed, and not very well worth
preserving.
It requires about seven or eight years to finish a mosaic
copy of a painting of the ordinary historical size, two men
bemg constantly employed. It generally costs from eight
to ten thousand crowns; but the time and expense are
regulated, of course, by the intricacy of the subject and
quantity of work.
Baphael' s Transfiguration cost about 12,000 crowns, and
the labour of nine years ; ten men constantly working at
it. The late works seem to me of very inferior execution
to the copies of Guido's Archangel, Guercino's Santa Petro-
idlla, and many of that date.
The slab upon which, the mosaic is made, is generally
formed of Travertine stone, connected by iron cramps.
Upon the surface of this a mastic, or cementing paste, is
gradually spread as the progress of the work requires it,
and forms the adhesive ground or bed on which the mosaic
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MOSAIC PICTTJEES. 311
is laid. This mastic is composed of lime burnt from marble,
and finely powdered Travertine stone, mixed to the con-
sistence of a strong paste, with linseed oil. Into this paste
are stuck the smalts (smalti) of which the mosaic picture is
formed. They are a species of opaque vitrified glass, par-
taking of the mixed nature of stone and glass, and composed
of a variety of minerals and materials, coloured, for the most
part, with different metallic oxides. Of these, no less than
seventeen hundred different shades are in use; they are
manufactured in Borne in the form of long slender rods like
wires, of different degrees of thickness, and are cut into
pieces of the requisite sizes, from the smallest pin-point to
an inch. "When the picture is completely finished, and the
cement thoroughly dned, it is highly polished.
This mosaic work, during the two years that I have
known Home, proceeded in that creeping indolent manner
in which all undertakings go on here, if they go on at all.
Pew workmen were employed, and those work Httle. This
manufactory now, in all the world, exists only in Eome ; for
the establishment in Milan, founded by the French, has
fallen with them, and its abolition was decreed by the
Austrian government.
Mosaic, though an ancient art, is not merely a revived,
but an improved one ; for the Eomans chiefly used coloured
marbles, or natural stones, in their mosaics ; and although
they appear to have also had the knowledge of some sort of
composition, it admitted of comparativelv little variety ; but
the mvention of smalts has given it a mr wider range, and
made the imitation of painting far closer.
The Morence work is totally different from this, being
merely inlaying pietre dtire, or natural precious stones, of
every variety, in marble or porphyrv tables, by which beau-
tiful and very costly imitations of shells, flowers, fibres,
&€., are formed, but it bears no similitude to mosaic or
painting.
Besides this government establishment at Eome, there
are hundreds of artists, or rather artisans, who carry on the
manufactory of mosaics on a small scale. Snuff-boxes, rings,
necklaces, brooches, ear-rings, &c., are made in immense
quantity ; and since the EngSsh flocked in such numbers to
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812 BOMS«
Borne, all the streets leading to the Piazza di Spagna aie
lined with the shops of these MusaicigH.
Oriental shells are made at Bome into beautiful cameos,
by the white outer surface being cut away upon the deeper-
coloured internal part, forming figures in minute bassi-
rilievi. The subjects are chiefly taken from ancient gems,
and sometimes from sculpture and painting. The sbeUa
used for this purpose are chiefly brought from the Levant.
The most celebrated artist in this curious branch of art,
which was then peculiar to Eome, was Dies. These shell-
cameos make beautiful ornaments.
The modem gems of the Pichlers, Natali, &c., are so well
known, and so nearly approach to the perfection of the best
Gbedan ones, that I need say nothing in their praise.
Though these celebrated artists are now dead, many of the
living ones at Eome are little inferior to them, both in
cameo and intaglio. Their subjects are sometimes taken
from the paintings of great masters; but more frequently
fi^m ancient or modem sculpture.
Besides those, hundreds of artists find support at Bome,
in making casts, sulphurs, &c., from ancient gems a<nd
medals, and in fabricating antiques, a most important and
lucrative trade. Marble and stone-cutting are also beauti-
fully executed both at Bome and Florence. Hopmartin, a
remarkably ingenious German, executes models in bronze
of the triumphal arches, columns, ruins, ancient vases, &c.
of Bome. He has executed a bronze model of Trajan's
Pillar, with the whole of the bas-reliefs, accurately copied —
an extraordinary work.
If the fine arts prosper in Bome, the useful arts are in a
woefully degenerate state. The mean, useless, unworkman-
like style in which everything of common life, every handi-
craft trade, is got through here, strikes one with much
surprise. It is very bad, even compared to France, and
what a contrast to England ! Even jewellery is miserably
finished here. The taste in the arts which might have been
expected to pervade every branch, from the models of beauty
which meet the eye at every turn, seems totally wanting.
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X6IKA MABBLES. 318
LETTEE LXXXVn.
Egika ajsv Phigaxian Maebles.
The Egina marbles have been so completely restored by
Thorwaldsen, in the true spirit and force of the original,
that, in contemplating them, the eye feels nothing to de-
sire.
The discovery of seventeen perfect specimens of a cele-
brated school, unique in its character, which flourished six
hundred years before the Christian era, which was kuown
to us only by the report of writers of antiquity (for not
a single monument of it was extant), was beyond all hope,
and is, perhaps, the most important accession to art that
has taken place for ages.
A blank in its gradation is hereby filled up. The Egina
School stands between the Etruscan and the Grecian, and
verges upon both in some respects, though distinct from
either in more important characteristics.
The best judges, indeed, have felt and acknowledged the
difficulty of drawing a clear distinction between the Etrus-
can and the early Grecian; but, comparing the Egina
marbles with undoubted Etruscan sculptures, it seems to
bear a near resemblance to them in the well-known style
of the drapery, and in the arrangement of the hair; in
which two formal rows of the stifiest little curls are ranged
round the unmeaning face. "With diffidence, too, I would
say, that the form of the helmets in the Egina marbles
bears a striking similitude to those in that common sepul-
chral subject of the Etruscan xims, — the combat of Echeties;
but I speak of the latter from remembrance. However
this may be, the Egina sculpture ,has lost much of the
monotony and the stiff erect rigidity of attitude that
adheres in some degree to all the Etruscan statues, m
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314 BOHX.
which the Egyptian, softened down and thawed into life,
still appears. The Egyptian figures, indeed, always remind
me of their mummies. One sees, too, that the artist,
conscious of his weakness, timorously confined himself to
that which was most easy of execution, making man as
much as possible an erect piUar, — a sort of regular mathe-
matical figure ; and that ne durst not venture upon any
approach to the grace or freedom of nature, much less
to momentary action, for which the Egina statues are
remarkable.
Above all other sculpture, indeed, they are distinguished
for their varied display of the human figure, for the strong
muscular delineation, the wonderful anatomical precision,
and the nice imitation of life which charms the eye. Still
more striking are their bold and original attitudes, and their
powerful expression and force of action.
What is the most singular, however, and the least ad-
mirable about them, is, that all the faces are prototypes af
each other; and so far inferior to the figures, that it is
obvious the style of an earlier age has been retained in
them. This can only be accounted for from motives of
religious veneration towards some particular model. It
has been thought, on this account, that they represented
the Uacida, the deified heroes of Egina; but no actions
are recorded of these worthies that can explain the subject
of this sculpture ; besides, Minerva and the men are pre-
cisely similar, and it could not be necessary that she should
bear the faniily resemblance ; and all are equally devoid of
expression, even to a degree of vacant idiotism. The coun-
tenances of the prostrate heroes^ pierced with the death-
wound, wear the same senseless smile as the rest.
All of them are on a scale considerably below that of
nature, which obviously arose from the necessity of con-
forming their height to that of the pediments of the temple
they adorned. They were found, I may say, by mere acci-
dent, in the island of Egina, in the year 1811, by Mr.
CockereU and Mr. Foster, Baron Haller and Mr. Linkh,
in making an excavation, which had for its object the
determination of some disputed points in Grecian archi-
tecture. From two of these gentlemen I had the parti-
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INTEBESTIKa GBOUF. 315
culars of this interesting discovery, and to their valuable
observations I have been indebted for much of the pleasure
I received from the examination of the sculpture.*
On the western pediment of the temple, eleven of the
statues were found nearly entire. On the eastern, five only
were recovered, and these much shattered. All the rest
on this side were wholly destroyed, and their scattered
fragments have been collected in vain. This is the more
to be lamented, because these statues are far superior to
the others, and have been pronounced to be the work of a
greater master. Their subject and arrangement seem to
have been much the same, and will be best understood by
attending to those which were found entire on the western
pediment.
In viewing them, no one statue can, or ought to be, con-
sidered apart. They are parts of one great group, and we
must attend, not so much to their individual appearance as
their general effect. "We see that the action of each has
reference to the others, like the figures in a picture ; and,
indeed, never — except in these grand historical statvumf
pictures^ which adorned the pediments of the Parthenon, of
this Temple of Egina, and of most of the temples of ancient
Greece — were th^ beauties aad effects of sculpture and
painting intimately combined ; for to sculpture, besides its
own peculiar advantages, is here given the grouping, com-
position, and relative action of painting. It is obvious that
the combat here represented, is for the body of the dying
hero ^by &x the most beautiful of them all), which one
party is trying to seize, and the other to defend ; and among
911 the varied explanations which have been given of the
subject, that of the combat for the body of Patroclus seems
to me by far the most satisfactory. In the midst appears
Minerva, as described by Homer, animating the Grecians.
Her statue and drapery are peculiarly fine. There is a
peculiarity in her iEgis, which is destitute of the snakes.
The figure of the ^cher in the Phrygian cap, and the
♦ The accurate designs of their original position, drawn by Mr.
Cockerel], from notes taken on the spot, give a very satisfactory idea
of their conneuon iritU each otiier. — ^See Quarterly Jouiual, Nos. 12
and li.
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^16 BOHE.
close elastic dress, which covers, without concealing, his
body, is very anguW. He is supposed to be one of the
Troians.
Perfect common nature is represented in these statues,
with admirable skill and science ; but there is little of the
ideal in any of them, except in the faultless figure of the
dying hero, which is a masterpiece of sculpture.
They are obviously the works of an age when art had
shaken off the shackles of earlier times, and made great
advances to that perfection at which it afterwards arrived ;
but they are far removed from the ^andeur of those works
with which Phidias enriched the Parthenon; or the still
brighter period, when the Laocoon, the Torso, the Dying
Gladiator, and the Apollo, were designed, for the wonder
and admiration of future ages.
The temple in which they were found is believed, I know
not upon what authority, to have been that of Jupiter
Panhellenius ; yet, though there is abundant proof that
there was such a temple in Eguia, there is none whatever
that there was no other ; and as the statue of Minerva was
found surmounting both pediments, it would seem more
reasonable to ascribe the temple to her, especially as no
vestige whatever of Jupiter has been discovered. This
point is, however, extremely immaterial ; further than that
if this be not that famous Temple of Jupiter, and if its
site could be elsewhere traced, the discovery of more hidden
treasures might reward the industry of future excavators.
The earthquake that buried these, may have involved other
temples and other sculpture in its ruins.
It is a strange paradx)x, that it is to the destructive con-
vulsions of nature we owe the preservation of some of the
most valuable remains of art. Herculaneum and Pompeii,
the bas-reliefs of the Arcadian Temple of Apollo* on Mount
Cotylion near Phigalia, and the Egina Marbles, are by no
means the only instances.
It is well known that the two English discoverers of the
Egina Marbles took infinite pains to have them secured to
our country, but in vain. At their sale, in the island of
' "^ The Phigalian MarbleB, now in the Britkh Musenm ; the work of
the same era as ti^oae of the Parthenon, but of yeiy inferior sculptore..
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BBITISH FABfllMONT. 317'
Zante, the Fnnce IRojal of Bavaria, not the Prince Be^ent
of England, was their purchaser: they therefore adorn
Munich, and not London. This is another instance of the
miserahle parsimony of the British Groyemment in all
matters relative to the Fine Arts.
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818 BOicx.
LETTEE LXXXVIIL
TTADEiAy's Villa.
We left Borne this morning for Tivoli, by the Porta San
Lorenzo. Three miles from it we crossed tne Ponte Mam-
molo, over the Anio, or Teverone, whose sleepy course is
here destitute of beauty ; and proceeded through the dreary
waste of the Campagna, for ten long miles ftirther, without
meeting any passengers (excepting two or three beggars),
or seeing a single sign of human habitation or of life ;
though ipementos of death in abundance stared us in the
face; for, besides the ruined tombs, black crosses by the
wayside marked the frequent spots where murder had been
committed. Artij&cial caves, hoUowed out in the soft poz-
zuolana rock that bounded the road, were pointed out to
us as the frequent lurking-place of assassms. So poor,
however, and so few, seem to be the passengers between
Some and Tivoli, that I should suppose these murderers
would get nothing but blood for theur pains — and but little
of that.
Longing for some object to break the tedium of the way,
we looked out with great earnestness for 'the Lake of
Tartarus,' which we were to pass ; but it was not from our
eyes that we had the first intimation of our approach to
it; for we scented it from afar in such offensive ejfluvia,
that every foul and fetid odour seemed congregated in one
potent stench, which increased every moment tiU we passed
the spot. Lake, there is none. Excepting one muddy
pool, the thick viscid waters are dried up, or encrusted
with a hard uneven substance, of an aricl yellow colour,
on which patches of stunted bushes were growing. The
wide extent of this hideous crust marked the ancient sur-
face of ' the Tartarean Lake.' Eeeds, roots of plants, all
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SrLPHUBEOUS LAKE. 319
things of vegetable kind that grow near it, are rapidly
changed, by its petrifying qualify, into stone. The masaeS
of rock all round it are of this curious fibrous teiture.
Near this dismal lake stands a ruined Gothi(i fortress, called
Castello Archione.
As we proceeded on our way, the fumes still continued
to increase, till, at the distance of about two miles, we
reached the artificial bed of another foul blue fluid, for
I cannot call it water, — ^which flowed across the road, con-
ducted from the celebrated 'Sulphureous Lake,' about a
mile distant, to drain which it has been cut. In part it
has succeeded, and, besides, it is the nature of such waters
to diminish, so that the ancient size of this lake is now
greatly reduced. We left the carriage to walk to it, and
on onr way we picked up a bare-legged cicerone, a poor
goat-herd, who told us ail he knew about it, — ^and more.
Arrived on the brink of the filthy flood, he embarked him-
self upon it on a little floating island of about two feet
diameter, which was near the shore, and by the help of a
long stick navigated himself about in this new species of
vessel. Several of these floating islands, some of much
larger dimensions, were dispersed over the pond ; they are
produced by the plants cohering together, and formed into
a solid mass by the thi^k deposit from the sulphureous
water,^ which possesses the same petrifying property as the
Tartarean: LaJke. Several rustics had, by this time, col-
lected round, us, all of whom assured us that the lake is
bottomless. That, however, is not the case, though it is*
very deep, and in one place measures upwards of thirty
fiEithoms. They threw in stones, and made us observe how
it 'boiled,' as they called it. It certainly bubbled for
several minutes afterwards with great activity, which arose,
I presume, from the sulphuretted gas being rapidly dis-
engaged from the bottom by the percussion of the stone,
and rising through the water. In the morning at sunrise,
they assured ia» it spontaneously throws up these bubbles,
and is quite covered with mist and steam. The water,
though rather . higher than the ordinary temperature, is cold
to the touch. The peasants told us that the quarries of
Tiburtine* stone were near the lake, and assured us that
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■ - * "* **■■ * ^^^^>i£^i2r^i. ~'r aieciia^ pur-
f r_- \ .-=:.:* — ^.-r?- -r- pa^-« jf Queen
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820 BOME.
some ruins on its margin — apparently tlie remains of some
of the baths which were much frequented for medical pur-
poses in the days of the Eomans — ^were the palace of Queen
Zenobia. But though that royal captive, after gracing
Aurelian's triumph, did take up her abode in the neigh-
bourhood of Tibur, one would scarcely imagine she would
choose to plant herself on the brink of this pandemo-
nium.
Here are now no vestiges of the Saicred Ghrove and
Temple of the Faun, who, in the days of the pious .tineas
and his father-in-law, was the oracle of the whole country.
I do think the old Latin monarch must have passed rather
an uncomfortable night on the margin of this pestilent
basin, in spite of his bed of a hundred sheep-skins, when
he went to dream of the expediency of the future nuptials
of Tumus and Lavinia.*
Soon after leaving the lake, we reached the Ponte Lucano,
a spot so well known in painting, that I need scarcely
describe it. It owes all its picturesque effect to the tower
close by the bridge ; for the Anio here, though shaded by
trees, is nothing in itself. This tower, as the inscriptions
upon it prove, is the tomb of M. Plautius and his femily.
It nearly resembles that of Cecilia MeteUa; like that, it
is built of Tiburtine stone, and in ^similar manner, it bears
on its summit the walls and fortifications raised in the days
of feudal warfare. It differs, however, in having had a
front towards the road, composed of six Corinthian columns,
some broken remains of which are still visible, and in not
having had a sculptured frieze. It was built in the days of
Vespasian.
It is curious that the inscription on this monument,
* At rex, Bollicitus monstris (Layinia's hair taking fire, &c}
oracula Fauni,
Fatidici genitoris, adit, lucosque sub alta
Consnlit Albunea : nemorum quee maTima sacro
Fonte sonat, sseyamque ezhalat opaca mephitim.
Hinc Itallae gentes, omnisque (Enotria telliis,
In dubiia responsa petunt : hue dona sacerdos
Quum tulit, et caeaarum ovium suf> nocte silenti
Pellibus incubuit stratis, somnosqne petivit.
Ms, lib. ylL
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hadeian's vilia. 321
wMcli records the dignities M. Flautius enjoyed and the
victories he gained, ends with vmT ajsts, Ia. Though it
is impossible that a consul and a general could have died
at nine years of age, there is no appearance of any figure
having been obliterated. Could it mean that he was consul
during nine years ?
The ancients were right in making a circle the symbol of
eternity, not only from its having no commencement or
termination, but because of its durabiliiy. Excepting the
Pyramids, almost all the ancient buildings that remain
entire, are circular. Not to mention the Colosseum, and
the Amphitheatre of Verona, and the Sepulchre of Augustus,,
which, Dy great exertions, have been in part destroyed^
the Pantheon, the Tombs of Hadrian, of Cecilia MeteUa,
and of Munatius Plancus at Molo di Gueta, are the mosi
perfect remains of antiquity which our times can boast.
To the left of the route Lucano, are some unknown
ruins, apparently of Eoman villas, and near them an ancient
consiilar road may still be traced. "We soon after passed,^
on the right of the road, the remains of two Eoman tombs,,
on one of which, — ^probably the tomb of a knight, — ^is the-
common sepulchral rilievo of a man holding his horse by
the bridle. Some people have called these the lodges to
Hadrian*s magnificent villa, — ^a truly English idea; but
a little attentive observation wiU make their sepulchral'
destination sufficiently obvious.
Soon afterwards, we turned off to the right, and a short
mile of bad rocW road brought us to the present entrance
to the ruins of Hadrian's wonderful villa. It is situated
on the plain at the foot of the hiU of Tivoli, and,, accord-
ing to the writers of antiquity, covered an extent of three
miles with its multiplied structures, its gardens, and its
appurtenances. It rather resembled a city in itseK than a
single mansion. We know that Hadrian imitated her©
everything which had struck his fancy during his travels,
and that the buildings and institutions of Egypt, Syria>
and Gbeece, were assembled within its walls *
These proud imperial ruins are now lost among thiek
* Vide Spartianus.
TOL. n. T
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322 Bosns.
olive groves; their floors, instead of being paved with
pictured mosaics, are overgrown with grass; their broken
reticulated walls are overhung with wild creeping plants;
and their once magnificent hiuls are filled with thickets of
aged ilex, and overshadowed by mournful cypresses and
pme-trees ; yet enough still remains to attest their former
extent and splendour.
The house of the custode, on the left in entering, which
is dignified by the title of a Casino, is built on some of the
ancient walls. Close by it is a building with some niches
for statues, and an arched recess for a fountain, the walls
of which are covered with petrifactions. There is also a
room, the roof of which is adorned with beautiful indented
stucco, in patterns resembling arabesque, and in wonder&l
preservation. On the right is a theatre : the eye can still
trace the semicircular ranges of seats, the porticos below
them, the proscenium, and the orchesi^ in the middle of
which a colossal torso of a marble statue, supposed to have
been of Hadrian, was Iving on the ground. "We trod the
grass-grown stage, and oisin^bed £rom their ancient haunts,
— ^not the Tragic nor the Comic Muse, nor yet the ranting
Mask with his cothurnus, that had so often *' &etted his
little hour upon this stage," — ^but a company of black
hooded crows, whose hoarse complaining clamour now alone
resounds here, iostead of the dialogues of Plautus or Ter-
ence. Near it is the Sipj^odromus, a large open oblong
space, for equestrian exercises, &c., now an olive grove;
yet still, in its broken walls, the niches for the statues that
once ornamented it, may be traced.
We proceeded down a long green avenue of tall cypress-
trees, to the Foecile, a double portico, built in imitation of
the PoBcile of Athens, so called from the varietv of the
paintings with which it was adorned.* All that now
remains of it consists of the lofty reticulated wall, nearly
six hundred feet in length, on either side of which was a
portico, supported by marble columns. Thus the poets and
philosophers, who took their daily jjromenade here, and
with whom Hadrian often used to mingle, could choose at
pleasure its sunny or shady side.
* Pausanias, lib. i, cap. 15; and Pliny, lib. joxy, cap. 9.
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-RviNB or hadbiak's tilla. 823
The south side commands a view of a large open space,
supposed to have been a sort of parade for the troops to
exercise in: and in the centre are remains of a sort of
loggia, said to have been the station of the Emperor when
be reviewed them.
A ruined semicircle to the left of the Poecile is called
the Temple of the seven "Wise Men of Grreece, because of
its having seven niches for statues; although it bears no
very decided appearance of ever having been a temple at all,
and looks quite as like the upper end of a large hall. Then
follows an immense rotunoa, or circular building, which,
because some marine monsters were observed amons; the
paintings on the walls, is called a Marine Theatre. £i the
centre are some vestiges of a small building. In one part
of the circle there is a recess, and opposite, about half-way
up, are some traces of a roof, as if a corridor had run round
it, which perhaps served also as a ^Hery.
Not far off is a vaulted grotto, with sn niches in it, which
our cicerone called a fountain, and maintained had supplied
this maritime theatre, — just as effectually, certainly, as a
pump would fill the sea.
Near the Eotunda are the remains of what are supposed
to have been the libraries, one Greek, and the other Latin.
They have been two stories in height, and old people say
they remember a ruined staircase which led to the upper
one, but there is now no trace of it left. Both here, and in
some small adjacent apartments, we observed some vestiges
of ancient paintings, almost obliterated ; a vase, with flames
rising firam it, was all I could make out.
Beyond these we passed through what they call the
Hospital, with divisions, as if for beds ; and at its extremity
we came upon a loggia, or elevated seat, from which we
looked down on the artificial Vale of Tempe. Deserted and
neglected as it is, the deep verdure of the carpet of turf that
covers it, the taU cypress-trees that shade it, and the aged
ilex that wreathe round the ruins which hang over it, deep
rooted in their massy walls — ^in their wildness and luxuriancy
of vegetation, have a beauty and a melwicholy charm which
accord with the ruined grandeur of this magnificent palace
of the proud master of the ancient world.
T 2
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324 BOMS.
Near here there seems to have been a stadium for foot-
races. Two semicircular buildings, apparently baths, bave
been christened the Temples of Venus and Diana, although
the four alcoves for statues within are of equal size and
importance; consequently it is very improbable they have
ever been dedicated to any one deity. Many are the
scattered and unknown ruins to which not even antiquarian
ingenuity has been able to aflBx a name. From these let us
proceed to what has obviously formed a part of the palace
itself: it consists of a great number of apartments of various
dimensions — some very large and noble. It has evidently
been two stories high ; but how the lower story was lighted
is certainly rather puzzling, for there is no appearance of
windows. Possibly this range of rooms was only frequented
at night, and therefore was only lighted by lamps ; but there
may have been another cause tor it. The walls are in many
places double, with a vacant space between them. This
cannot have been intended as a precaution against damp in
a climate such as this ; and it is more reasonably sup-
posed to have been a defence against the scorching blasts
of the sirocco ; and possibly the whole of this lower story
was built without windows for the same reason, to serve
as a cool retreat during the long continuance of this
sultry wind in summer. The upper story was probably
lighted from the roof. We observed a corridor which has
evidently been so, for the square apertures at the top still
remain.
The most interesting part of the ruins of the dwelling-
house is the Cavaedium, or open court, forming a fine oblong
square, round which runs a corridor, supported by a noble
colonnade; and in the centre, where a fountain formerly
flowed, a lofty pine-tree has sprung up, throwing around its
broad canopy of shade. "We still traced here some faint
vestiges oi ancient painting and mosaic pavement. Not
far from hence are some magnificent ruins, called the
Quarters of the Praetorian Guar^ which form an immense
oblong square, and consist of arches four stories high.
Some of the apartments seem to have been very small ; four
large rooms at the end are remarkably elegant. The stucco
ornaments of the vaulted roofs are, in many parts, in high
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THE CAirOFXrS AND KAUMACHIA. 325
preseiration, and beautiAilly executed — almost with the
effect of rilievo.
Can this be the Frytanewm which we know was built at
Hadrian's Villa, in imitation of that of Athens, and was not
merely a court of justice, but surrounded with the habita-
tions of the judges and officers ?
One of the most curious remains of Hadrian's Villa are
the Canopus and Naumachia, supposed to be an imitation
of the famous Egyptian Temple near Alexandria. The
Naumachia is an oblong square, nearly six hundred feet in
length, which has evidently, from the marks on the walls,
been filled to a certain height with water. At the upper
end of it is the Canopus, or temple of that deilrr. It is in
the form of a semicircle, with an alcove like a fountain at
the top, forming the seat of Canopus, the IWptian Neptune,
from which the water rushed down the rapid descent into the
Naumachia. In the sides are niches for statues, and here
all the Egyptian sculpture now at the Capitol was found.
Behind the Temple of Canopus are covered channels for water;
smaU secret chambers, supposed to have been intended for
the convenience of the priests, and a very remarkable semi-
circular gallery, with conduits in the walls, for water,
lighted irom above. The ceiling is painted, but the designs
can scarcely be traced. Prom the remains of buildings on
one side of the Naumachia, and some corresponding vestiges
on the other, it would seem that an elevated ^dlery or
corridor, has surrounded it, for spectators to view the naval
games, mock-fights, and races of this grand Aquatic Theatre.
When Hadrian celebrated the Enccsnia in this villa, it is
said some Christian martyrs formed a part of the great
samfice he offered up to Hercules.
The cicerone, alias vine-dresser, of this villa, next con-
ducted us to the Schools and the Habitations of the Philo-
sophers, which he seemed to be as well acquainted with as
if ne had lived among them ; and then to what he denomi-
nated the Baths of the Women (the Baths of the Men had
been abeady shown to us in a differentpart of the grounds),
which are really elegant building. Thejr chiefly consist of
small apartments, two stories mgh, which are called the
baths, and in the front of them are a hall and rotunda. Not
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826 BOME.
far from hence are the Oento OamereUe. They consist of
about one hundred and fifty small arched apartments, or
Bubstructions made to support the hill, in some places of
two, in others of three stories, according to the varying
height of the ground. They are all arched, and plastered at
the top, to resemble hewn stone, though built of reticulated
work ; they have no light or air but m>m the entrance, and
no communication with each other, and are all the same size,
excepting one large circular room, at the angle of the hill,
probably for the commanding officer ; for they are supposed,
and probably with reason, to have served as barracks for
soldiers.
At the Eocca Brune, there is a dark circular building,
not worth describing, called the Temple of Minerva. Near
it are 'the Elysian Fields,' which present a most melan-
choly aspect. Some narrow stagnant canals, like ditches,
may have been meant for Cocytus, &c., and are certainly
Stygian in hue ; but images of the infernal gods, and Izion
on his whirling wheel, were found here, which serves to
identify the place.
The Temple of Apollo, at a distance, on high ground,
rising from the woods which embosom it, had a very striking
and picturesque effect as we approached it, the golden sky
of evening shining through the yawning chasms in its walls.
It is said the statues of Apollo and the Muses, now in the
Vatican, were found here.
The resurrection of the statues which once adorned this
imperial villa, has filled the museums of Europe with some
of their choicest treasures. It is, indeed, wonderful that so
much of ancient sculpture should have come down to our
times ; for such was the ardour of the Christians, after the
establishment of their religion, for demolishing the beautifid
statues of the gods, — ^the fidse idols of Paganism, — ^that in
order to preserve these prodigies of art, it was found neces-
sary to appoint an Inspector of Statues; and a nightly
guard patrolled the streets, to preserve them firom muti-
lation or destruction.*
The age of Hadrian was the last great era of art, after
which it rapidly declined, to rise no more. The sculptures
* Hist, de TArt, Uv. vi, c. 8.
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WIDE EXTBITT OF ETTINS. 827
of tliat period are distinguished by peculiar grace and
beauty; and by that elegant contour, delicacy, and high
fini:sh, that denotes the poKsh of the last stage of refinement.
It is scarcely necessary to observe, that they were entirely
the work of Grecian artists. The Eomans never attained to
any celebrity in the arts, and to the last were obliged to
bow to the genius of the people they had enslaved. It is
iudeed remarkable that the Grreeks should have maintained
their perfection in the arts so long after the degradation of
their fiterature ; for even in the reign of Commodus, their
very language was so corrupted that they were unable to
read their own poets.*
The destruction of the Villa Adriana, though not yet
consummated, was early commenced. Caracalla began to
despoil it of its exquisite sculptures, and from that time
forward, it seems to have been abandoned to decay ; and its
wonders of art, its glories of antiquity, have perished along
with it. Even the most portable of these, the masterpieces
of statuary, have been buried in its ruins ; and after serving
as a quany of the fine arts for ages, it probably still contains
treasures destined to astonish future generations.
To attempt to form a regular plan of the roofless and
broken walls of this once magnificent imperial palace, seems
now to be the extreme of absurdity; yet many have been
executed by Ligorio, Kircher, E6, and others, which may be
had at Eome.
"We left it at last with regret, after having spent many
hours in wandering among its ruins and its groves.
* Hist, de I'Art, liv. vi, c. 7, sect. 60.
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LETTEB LXXXIX.
TivoLi — Cascades — Qbotto or !N"EPTim»— Sibbn's Cati
— Temple or the Sibtl, ajstd otheb Bemaiks of As-
TIQUITT — TOUB or THE HiLL — ^VlLLA OF MeOJEKAS—
LuciEN Bonapabte's Maktfactobieb — BuzinBD Villas
OF THE Ancient Eomanb — ^Excubsion to Hobace's
Sabote Fabm — Majestic Buins of the Aqueducts.
The beauty of Tiyoli consists in its rocks and waterfails.
It is to the Anio,— still the " prseceps Airio,"— that it owes
it ail. And jet this is sufficient to consktute the most
enchanting scenes. Amidst the drearj wilds of the Ciun-
parna you would never dream that « spot so romantic was
at hand. For twenty tedious miles you cross its bare, and
houseless track, you ascend the hill of Tivoli amidst the^ sad
sameness of the pale olive ; you enter its narrow street and
behold nothing but nieanness and misery ; you walk- but a
few steps, and what a prospect of unspeakable beauiy buists
UDon your view ! . Tremendous precipices of rock, down
which roars a headlong torrent, — ^treefs and bushy plants
shading its foaming course, — cliffs crowned with tte most
picturesque ruins, and painted in tints whose b^iuly art
can never imitate, — ^hilb, and woods, and hanging vijae-
yards ; and Tivoli itself, which, peeping out amidst the dark
cypresses at the top of these sunny banks, looks like an
I deaf little in description, — ^for words are inadequate to
convey an idea of the beauties and varieties of nature. The
pencil only can describe Tivoli; and though unlike other
scenes, the beauty of which is g^ierally exaggerated in
picture, no representation has done justice to it, it is yet
impossible that some part of its peculiar charms should not
be transferred upon the canvas. It almost seems as if
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T : V O L! , F p. O Fv' ! L S A MO COG ] ¥. A": O.
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CASCADES OT TITOLI. 329
nature had herself turned painter when she formed this
beautiful and perfect composition.
Having viewed the fall from above, we descended the long
steep precipice hj a zigzag path to the Grotto of Neptune,
Bi cave at the bottom, hollowed out in the worn and petrified
rock hj the boiling flood which for ages has beat against it.
and on the brink of the tremendous gulf which receives it.
The contrast between the white silvery foam of the water
in the fall, and their Stygian blackness as soon as they reach
this atill and deep abyss, is most striking. It is like the
torrent of life swallowed up in the gulf of death : — and like
the promise of immortality, as we gazed upon it, a bright
and beautiful rainbow suddenly sprung up, shooting across
the spray, and connecting earth with heaven in a radiant
arch of glory. Upon this painted arch, it is fabled that the
messengers of the gods and the angels of light have de-
scended from the skies ; and may it not to us, in fancy, open
the passage to brighter realms r It ia the arch of promise,
the oridge between distant worlds; and it seems set in
heaven to re-assure guiltv man, that to the height from
which he has fallen by sin he may reascend by faith.
But I must turn from the Ml of man to the foil of water
— or rather the falls — ^for here there are two : one formed
by a small branch of the river, the other by its main body.
Their united streams rush onward, and precipitate them-
selves into a tremendous abyss beneath a natural bridge of
rock, called the Ponte del Lupo. This wonderful view can
only be seen from the Siren's Cave, to which we descended
on the opposite side of the river, by a path continually wet
with the dew of the spray, and so steep and slippery that,
to save ourselves from falling, we had to cling to the Dushes
which fringe the sides of the precipice. At length we
reached the Siren's Cave. But what a prospect is here!
!Prom these hollow dripping rocks, on the very brink of the
impetuous torrent, which mmost laves our feet as it foams
along, we look up to the thundering cataracts above us,
almost deafened with their ceaseless roar — and look down
into the shuddering unseen depths of that dark abyss, which
yawns beneath to swallow up tne foaming waters.
Never shall I forget the view from the Siren's Cave. The
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tremendous catarlMH^B above — tie fearful gulf below — ttie
depth of which our shuddering sight vainly seeks to fathom ;
the roar, the rage, the strife of the maddening waters, im-
pelled onward as if by an irresistible destiny to their terrific
doom ; the narrow step that separates us from their sweep-
ing fury, hovering as we stand on the brink of perdition.
No : words can never speak its sublimity !
To me a mighty cataraet has always seemed the most
sublime of all the terrors of nature. There is something in
its continuity and its Tinabating rage, which strikes bur soul
with awe and wonder. All things else ia nature change mi
perish, — and all that are the most fraught with force ^i
power, are the most evanescent, excepting this. The tempe»fe
of the ocean pass away, — the thunder-storm endures biit^r
an hour, — ^the dread hurricane is soon at rest— the Y(Acsb^4
red streams of liquid fire grow cold, and are extinguiishefct
and the earthquake itself, that shakes the foundations ^^Slo
earth, and swallows up whole nations in its yawiiung wbii^^
is but fche convulsion (Mf a day. But we behold the ceaseless
fall of that torrent, which has held on its raging course ft?^
the beginning of time, and will continue till its latest ok^
— ^which knows no rest, no stop, no change, — ^by night ifxi
by day, iu storm and in sunshine, the same In etiry
moment of the past and the future — ^yesterday, to-day, i^
forever! • * •'
Few can stand on that giddy brink, without horror a&d
trepidation I Such is the roar of the waters, that the voiei^
of my companions were unheard; and- such the extrebae
cold produced by the rapid evaporation- of the thick fihowers
of spray, that on a day of intenise heat, our te^h chattered
in ourhead^.
; The river emerging below from this.dfeep abyss, rushes
foaming down the rociy windiag dell, forming in its course
other fells, and receivuig those of a third branch of flie
Anio, which separates above the town, flows round it, and
foams down the precipice at the Villa of Mecffiuas; i^ many
a glittering cascade, to join its parent stream.
Tivoli itself is lost froni below. We might be amidst the
remotest solitudes of Nature ; but the airy temple of the
fiibyl on the cliff above, overhanging the flood, reoals the
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TEMPlt or THF SIBYL, iK^^'rP^^S'^
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TEMPLE OF TESTA. 331
works of man in all their ancient greatness, and the times
when he himself was great.
This heautiful temple, which stands on the very spot
where the eye of taste would have placed it, and on which
it ever reposes with delight, is one of the most attractive
features of the scene, and perhaps gives to Tivoli its greatest
charm. One cannot but marvel at the inconceivable bar-
barism of that Gk)th who, after gazing upon it in a spot like
this, would have packed it up and camea it away, to bury it
in an obscure pans: in England.*
Independent of the situation, it may serve as a model of
architecture ; so perfect and so exquisitely beautiful are its
design, its symmetry, and proportions. It is believed to be
of the Augustan age. The small circular cella is surrounded
with a portico, which has formerly consisted of eighteen
Corinthian columns, of which ten only are now standing.
Portunately they are left on the side most essential to the
beauty of the view; and those which are fallen, perhaps
tend to give it the interest and picturesque character of a
ruin, without destroying its beauties as a building. The
foliage of the capitals is of the olive, the frieze is sculptured
with rams' heads and festoons of flowers ; and it is remark-
able that the columns, which are of TLburtine stone, have no
plinths.
It is the fashion now, merely because it is circular, to call
it the Temple of Vesta. But this was one of the most
common forms of ancient temples, and by no means exclu-
sively appropriated to that goadess. Why, therefore, may
not the famous Temple of the Sibyl have been circular also ?
Does it not exactly answer to the situation ? Is it not still
" Albunea alta ?" the "Domus AlbunesB resonantis?"t
• The late Lord Bristol — ^that man of taste — formed this project, and
actually bought it of the innkeeper in whose yard it stands, and was
proceeding to have it packed up to send to England (every stone
numbered, so as to re-erect it), when luckily the government interposed,
declared Roman ruins to be public property, and as such prohibited its
removal.
t I need scarcely observe, that Albunea, the Tiburtine Sibyl, was one
of the ten gifted maids whose books of prophecy were preserved in the
t«mple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus, and received as the Oracles of
Italy.
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882 BOMS.
Not far from it axe tbe remams of another ancient temple,
of an oblong form, now metamorphosed into the Churcn of
S. Giorgio, with a portico of four Ionic columns in front.
A sepulchral figure of a man on a tomb, which was found
here, and also the Anio reclining on his urn, were each in
turn christened the Sybil, and uds building is now, by all
the erudite, called the Temple of the SibjL It may as
probably have been any one of the many temples that
adorned ancient Tibur.
We are told to look for the site of the Temple of Hercules
where the Cathedral now stands, and we may fimcy it where
we please. As early as the days of Constantine it is said to
have been converted into a christian church, and dedicated
to S. Lorenzo. Augustus, who generally spent the sanuner
here, used to sit in its portico to administer justice.* I
believe it was here too he sometimes appeared as a mendi-
cant ; for he used to beg one day in every year, holding out
his hand to receive alms, — a penance he suDJected himself to
in order to propitiate the wrath of Neme8is,t whose sup-
posed delight it wab to humble the proud and the pros-
perous.
Tibur was the town sacred to Hercules ;X so indeed was
almost every neighbouring place and scene, not excepting
early Borne itself But the antiquity of Tibur goes as fiar
back as the light of historv. It can be traced more than
five hundred years before Kome had a name, and its origin
is lost in the obscurity of &ble. According to Yirgil, it was
founded by some youths, who must have come from Argos,§
while the world was vet young, for that purpose. Stxabo,
as well as the poet8,|| ascribes its origin to a Greek colonj.
Still, in the town arms, it calls itself * Superbum Tibur,'^!"
though a more wretched place can hardly be conceived.
But enough of antiquities.
* Snetoning, Angpist. f Suet, in Yit. Calig.
t " UrlM HercuU sacra." $ iEn. lib. yiL
II " Tibor Aigeo poatum Colono."
Horace, lib. 11, ode vi.
" jam mtenia Tibnris udi,
" Stabani, Aigolictt qua poanere manus."
Ovro, F«8ti» It. 71.
% VirgU, Mu. Ub. vii, y. 627.
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CASCADE 07 THE JlSIO. 338
Mounted on asses we made tKe tour of the bill. We first
cross the Anio by a wooden bridge, in face of a cascade,
which at any other place would be loudly extolled, but at
Tivoli is never even named, — ^then wind along the steep side
of the lull, — ^its oHve-crowned banks rising steep above, and
the river roaring in its rocky bed below. In the whole of
this delightful little tour of about two miles, we see almost
at every step a new and beautiful picture. The cascades at
the Grotto of Neptune, the temples, the caves, the rocks,
the woods, and the ruins, appear in continually varying
combinations of beauty. The spring was out in all its joy
and freshness. The flush of nature, the young green of
the tender foliage, the banks 'tufted with violets, the trees
glowing with blossom, the song of the birds, the sweet smell
of the flower of the vines, and the brightness and luxu-
riance of vegetation, made one*s heart bound with joy.
We descended the precipitous bank nearly to the bed of
the river, to see the yron' cascatelle, as our rustic ciceroni
called the beautiful broken fall, or falls, which the river
makes below. The effect of the dtist of the water (polvere
dell' acqua), as they called the spray, in the brilliancy of the
noon-day sun, was peculiarly fine. They assured us this fall
is a hundred and eighty feet in height ; be this as it may, it
forms one of the most enchanting and picturesque scenes in
the world. I cannot say quite so much for the long small
straggling cascatelle wmch come tottering and tumbling
down the face of the rock at the Villa of MecsBuas, like long
silver hairs, "streaming like a meteor to the troubled air,"
though they too are beautiful ; and seen, as we first beheld
them, gleaming through the trees, with the long arcades of
the ruined villa above, they had a very striking effect. We
crossed the river by the Pontecelli, and reascended its
opposite bank to the town, by the Via Valeria,* an ancient
consular road. Part of its original construction, huge, flat,
irregular blocks of stone, fitted closely into each other, like
the Appian Way, still remain.
We stopped to examine il Ihr^no della Ihsse^f as the
* Yicovaro is supposed to be the ancient Valeria,
t Temple of the Cough. Great antiquaries have doubted that there
could be so absurd a deity: I cannot see why there might not as well
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834 BOMS.
people of Tivoli call a picturesque ruin of hexagonal form,
overhung with wild shrubs and eyergreens, with four arched
entrances, windows, and niches for statues within and with-
out. Bearing a considerable resemblance to the Temple of
Minerva Medica, it has equallj puzzled the antiquaries,
Home of whom call it a bath, some a temple, and some a
tomb.
Two other vestiges of ruins, siipposed to have been sepul-
chres, near here, are, from their form, called the buttresses
(gli pilastri) of Tivoli.
On the other side of the road, close to the town, we
entered the Villa of Mecaenas. It is quite certain that
MecsBuas had a villa here, and wholly impossible to prove
either that this was or was not it. But since tradition
has affixed to it, perhaps rightly, the name, why should it
not be retained ? Why should we not indulge the belief,
whilst standing beneath its ruined arches and corridors, and
g&zms upon the classical scenes it commands, that this was
mdeed the far-famed Villa of MecsBnas ? Whatever it was,
however, the remains are very extensive, and the situation
singularly fine. It stands on the highest ridge of the
height, overlooking, on one side, the far-extended plains of
the Campagna, with Eome in the distance, bounded by
purple mountains, and on the other the deep romantic deU
of the rushing river, with its waterfalls, its woods, its rocks,
its ruins, and its caves.
On the side of Eome you still see the arches under which
passed the public road, and the Doric porticos, looking to
the Anio, are in high preservation. The style of buil<un?,
which consists of small stones fitted curiously together, is
very remarkable. These arcades and porticos, the large
open court or cavaedium, the atrium, the chambers opening
upon it, the second story to which we can stiH ascend, the
10%- subterranean hall beneath, the massive arches of stone,
be a temple to Cough on the Anio, as to Fever on the Palatine; nor
why it was not as reasonable to deify diseases as vices, — ^which were
common objects of worship among the Romans. Besides, as the air of
Tibar was noted for its salubrity, it was probably famous for its cure of
cough ; and so a temple for sacrifices, prayers, propitiation, and thanks-
giving to it, would naturally arise here.
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BriKS OF TILLAS. 835
and all the iimumerable and interesting restiges we see,
impress us with a high idea of the extent and magnificence
of this ancient villa.
I grieye to say that it is deformed hj the greasy opera-
tions of a filthy oil-mill, and the grimy apparatus of a gun-
powder manufactory, together with the hideous wreck of an
iron-foundiy, which luckily failed. The project was aban-
doned, but the dirt remains. All the black Elba iron-stone,
and the dross and the cinders, and the abomination belong-
ing to it, are still blackening every place, reflecting no great
credit on the taste of the present proprietor — Prince Lucien
Bonaparte.*
Many were the ruins, or rather substructions, of Boman
villas, which we had passed in our tour of the hill, and our
rustic cicerone did not fail to attach to each of them the
name of some celebrated Boman who had once possessed a
retreat here. We did not, however, see the villa which
Julius C»sar sold to de&ay the expenses of his ^dileship,
nor that in which his own murder was planned by Brutus
and Cassius ;t but we saw the Villa of Horace at the church
of S. Antonio — ^though I see little reason to imagine he ever
had a villa at Tibur ; for he was poor, and his Sabine farm
was only twelve miles off; and when he resided amidst the
beauties of Tibur, it was probably at the country-houses of
Mecffinas and his other fiiends. We saw, too, the Villa of
Quintilius Varus, still called Qamtiliolo; and of Catullus,
which bears the name of Truglia, supposed to be derived
from Catullii; though, for the life of me, I cannot see any
very great resemblance between these names. To these
* I beliere this smelting bosinesB was only a pretext to enable
Lucien Bonaparte, unsuspected, to send vessels to the island of Elba
from whence he imported the iron-ore, and thus to hold constant com-
munication with his brother. It ceased with Kapoleon's flight from the
island.
t Vide Suetonius. Life of Julius Caesar. I was amused by the
experience I had of the method of christening ruins here. On my first
viidt, I asked one of our ciceroni, ironically, if he could not show mc
this Villa of Cassius, but he had no place for it : on my return in
autumn, he accompanied us again, but having forgotten me, he pointed
to a heap of stones, saying, " Ecco gli avanzi creduti della Villa di
Cassio."
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88U BOUE.
two, howerer, we maj attacb some credit ; but we also saw
the villas of Lepidus, of the poet Archias, of Piso, of Pro-
pertius, of Yopiscus,* and of numj others, which I think
was enough in all reason.
We saw one which was more than enough, — a modem
villa, a princely villa, and a most hideous vuLa, — ^the Villa
d'Este. It was erected by the Cardinal Hippolito d'Este,
the nephew of the patron of Ariosto, and A is really of a
piece with the taste which his worthy uncle showed in
that famous speech he made to the poet, on returning the
Orlando : — " Dove, Messer LudovicOy a/oete pigliato tv/tte queste
cofflionerief'^f
One cannot but wonder who couW have turned from the
beautiful waterfells of Tivoli to invent these foolish waters
works. Who could have beheld these luxuriant shades and
groves, and projected these vile clipt hedges and tormented
trees? Who, amidst all these enchanting beauties of
nature, could have collected together aH these deformities
of art P What strange depravity of taste! And yet,
stranger still, these wretched gardens are admired and
imitated by the Italians ! They were, it seems, the first of
the kind — ^the fruitful parent of all trees clipped into animals
and cyphers, and all water converted into bushes and mu»cal
men ; on which account I bear them a peculiar grudge, for I
hold in utter abhorrence the whole of their monstrous and
unnatural progenv.
Not under this deiSnition, certainlv, come the water-
fSeillfl of Tivoli itself, though you will be surprised to hear
they are artificial. Sixtus v. made the cascade at the
Grotto of Neptune, as it now stands. That most active
of popes, not satisfied with his indefatigable labours in art,
set to work to alter nature herself. However, he seems
to have borne in mind, better than the Cardinal, the poet's
precept,
L'Arte che tutta tsi, nuBa si 8copre/':|:
• From the minute deacription of the villa of Vopiacus by Statins, U
seems to have been exactly in the situation of some ruins near tli«
Temple of the Sibyl.
t " Where, Ludovico, did yon pick up all this nonsense 1"
t Tasso.
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MODEBir BOCIC-DEPOSITS. 337
for the eye detects nothing of it, — nature seems un-
aided.*
I forgot to mention, that, on the wajr down to the Grotto
of Neptune, there is a distinct impression of the segment of
a modem cart-wheel in the solid rock. It is difficult to
understand how such an immense body of stone should have
been formed above it since the very earliest period such a
wheel could have been left here; and still more difficult
otherwise to account for the phenomenon. "We were told,
too, that an ancient iron instrument had been extracted
from the heart of a block of stone, some years ago. It cer-
tainly seems as if these precipices of rock had oeen depo-
sited by the Anio, because it rapidly petrifies every sub-
stance left in its waters, and encrusts it with a deposit
which, both to the eye, and when subjected to chemical
analysis, is precisely similar to the stone of which they are
composed, — the Tiburtine, or Travertine stone. This cart-
wheel impression has made a great impression upon the
"Wemerians. They think it puts a spoke in the wheel of
the Huttonian h3rpothesis. Far be it m)m me to enter upon
the perilous field of geological controversy, and I scarcely
venture to hint even to you, that I cannot but believe that
both the elements of ftre and water, so powerM in decom-
position, had a considerable, and neither of them an exclusive
share, in the composition of the globe. That there should
be parties at all in matters of science, is at once ridiculous
and lamentable; but I must leave the subject, and close
my letter, which already so greatly exceeds all reasonable
bounds, that I have no room to give you much account of
the excursion to Horace's Sabine Farm. It is about twelve
miles from Tivoli; the place is now called Licenza, corrupted,
we may fency, from Digentia. Little of the poet's mansion
remains, excepting some mosaic pavement, but the natural
features of the scene are unchanged ; and it well repays the
labour of the journey, to drink of the spring which he has
* The flame remark applies also to the famous Fall of Tend,— the
Caduto del Marmore, which is likewise made by art. It is curious, too,
that the waters of the Yelino, as well as the Amo, have a powerfully
petrifying quality.
VOL. II.
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888 BOHX.
described, to gaze upon the scenerj whicli formed tlie daaly
objects of his contemplation, and to fancy we discoyered ful
that had in turn been the theme of his song,
" He qnoties reficit gelidns Digentia liTus,
Quern Mandela bibit," &c.
Hob. lib. i, Ep. 18.
Even if you have not sufficient leisure or patience to under-
take this distant and fatiguing expedition upon donkeys (the
only steeds which Tivoli affords) 1 would recommend you, by
all means, to visit the aqueducts, which are little more than
a mile from the Porta San Q-iovanni. Here, the noble arches
of the Aqueduct of Claudius, thrown over the river and the
road, built of immense blocks of Tiburtine stone, overgrown
with ivy and wild brushwood, strike the eye with their
grandeur ; immediately behind them appears a lower line of
ancient arches, on the top of which stands a ruined Gt)thic
tower, the remains of bloody feudal wars ; the river rushing
beneath, amid rocks, and crossed by a rustic bridge, forms a
most picturesque contrast to the stupendous arch of the
great aqueduct, which also spans its bed ; beneath another
of its arches, the rural road we were traversing, passes. The
effect of this scene — ^the dark ivy, ^e ruined tower, the
distant hiOs, the rocks, the woods, lighted up by the brilliant
tints of the evening sky of Italy — ^with the group of our-
selves, our asses, and our peasant guides — formed altogether
one of the most picturesque combinations I ever beheld.
Beyond this, the aqueducts accompanied us a long way,
now entering the hills, through which the water was carried
in conduits, and again emerging ; appearing and disappear-
ing in this manner, sometimes three or four times m the
space of half a mile ; but the scenery becomes comparatively
tame and uninteresting, and there is nothing worth seeing.
We left Tivoli at last with great regret. It is not merely
its natural beauty, great as that is, that forms its strong
attraction to every mind of taste and feeling. There is not
a mouldering heap of stone, that once formed the villa of a
Eoman, that does not recal those great names and that
bright age of antiquity so dear to remembrance ; nor a spot
that is not immortalized in the most classic strains of poesy.
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ASSOOIATIOHTB OF TTTOLI.
On scenes of beauty, sucli as these, we must ever gaze with
admiration ; but we view them with redoubled interest; when
we think that the great in every age have also gazed upon
them ; and we feel that they possess a more powerful charm
from having been the chosen retreat of those whose memory
is consecrated among men.
The voices of its bards still seem to whisper in its winds
and murmur in its fountains ; the muses still linger in its
consecrated groves ; and the spirits of its great philosophers
still seem to hover round tne mouldering walls of their
ancient homes, and the forgotten sepulchres where their
remains repose.
z2
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^
840 BOMI.
LETTER XC.
PsASCATi — Villas or the Modesn^ Eoman-s — Cato —
PoBCLAir Meadows — ^Lake Eegillus — ^Euins of Tus-
cxTLiTM — Site or Cicero's Villa — ^New Excayations
— TUSCXTLUM AITD PoMPEII — LtTCIEN BoNAPABTE's
Villa — Tomb and Villa op Litcullus — ^Mokumebtts
TO Cabdikal Yob£ aitd the Pbetekdeb.
Ip Tivoli was the favourite retreat of the ancient Eomans,
it is not so of the modems. They leave its rocks, its caves,
its woods, its waterfalls, and its ruins, to be gazed upon hj
peasant eyes — ^for none but rustics inhabit it ; and for the
most part, they fix their large, dull, formal, comfortless,
country-seats, in a cluster at Frascati ; which may be a very
pleasant place, but wants that living stream that gives
Tivoli its charm, and all those classic ruins and remem-
brances, that invest it with a still higher interest. Frascati
does not occupy the site of the ancient Tusculum, which
was on the top of the hill, while it is built on the side, a
mile at least from it ; nor is there a single vestige of anti-
quity, or spot fiamed in classic lavs, near its proud villas.
But it is only half the distance u*om Eome, and that is,
perhaps, the greatest beauty to a people who consider rural
life as banishment.
Frascati is said to have derived its name from the frmche^
or leafy boughs of trees, with which the unfortunate inha-
bitants of Tusculum constructed their huts, when their city-
was razed to the ground by the barbarous (barbarized)
Eomans, in the twelfth century.* In frasche^ it may be
said, they still live; for beautiful woods of arbutus. Hex,
• In the year 1187. A few years previous to this the Tusculans had
defended dieir city bravely from the attacks of the Romans, whom they
had defeated, when led on by Frederick Barbaroesa, with immense loss.
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TBABCATI. 841
cypTess, and the stone-pine, shade the stately villas which
surround, and indeed ahnost compose, Erascati.
We went through a most tiresome succession of these
villas. They are aU like large palaces, carried from the city
into the country. Booms of state, not of domestic habita-
tion ; and decorations, not conveniences, seem to prove that
all is meant for show, not use, and made to look at rather
than to live in.
Out of doors, their little circumscribed, artificial grounds ;
their clipped tress, formal theatres, bad statues, vile giuoehi
d^acqua, tricks, and puppet-shows, are a wretched substitute
for gardens and pleasure-grounds and extended parks, in all
the bloom and luxuriance of '' Nature to advantage dressed."
At the Vill^ Ludovisi (now Conti) we saw long waterfalls
tumbling down stone steps, in a most leisurely manner, and
divers y»tM>cAi cTaeaua of different species. But at the Villa
Aldobrandini, or Belvedere, we were introduced to the most
multifarious collection of monsters I hope ever to behold.
Giants, centaurs, &runs, cyclops, wild beasts, and gods, blew,
bellowed, and squeaked, without mercy or intermission ; and
horns, pan's-pipes, organs, and trumpets, set up their com-
bined notes in such a dissonant chorus, that we were fain to
fly before them ; when the strains that suddenly burst forth
m>m ApoUo and the nine Muses, who were in a place apart,
compelled us to stop our ears, and &ce about again in the
opposite direction.
When this horrible din was over (and it was put an end
to at our earnest supplication), we were carried back to
admire the now silent Apollo and Muses, — a set of painted
wooden dolls, seated on a little mossy Parnassus, in a
summer-house, — a plaything we should have been almost
ashamed to have made even for the amusement of children.
All these creatures, in the meantime, were spouting out
water. The lions and tigers, however contrary to their
usual habits, did nothing else ; and the *" great globe itself,"
which Atlas was bearing on his shoalders, instead of *^ the
solid earth," proved a mere aqueous ball, and was over-
whelmed in a second deluge. I was sitting patiently on one
of the steps at the door, waiting the pleasure of my com-
panions to depart, when, to their inexpressible amusement,
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842 BOMB.
water suddenly began to spirt up beneath me, and all round
about me, drenching me with a shower fi*om the earth
instead of the skies.
The view from this villa is beautiful ; aud there are some
frescos in the rooms, said to be veiy fine ; but whether my
admiration was chiUed by my cold bath, or whether they
really are not very admirable, I did not think them so.
The Yilla Mondragone has more windows than days in
the year ; I ought rather to speak in the past tense ; for, about
eighteen years ago, it was despoiled by Neapolitan brigands,
and has now scarcely any wmdows at all. I saw nothing
but the colossal bust of the younger Faustina, lying neg-
lected on the ground among rubbish ; the head severea from
the neck. The famous bust of Antinous (the finest Antinoiis
iu the world), which also belonged to this villa, was carried
off by the French as a part of the Borghese Collection, and
stiQ remains in the Louvre.
The ride to Mondragone, through magnificent avenues of
ilex, is truly beautiful. From the grounds near it rises the
beautiful height of Monte Algido,* once the seat of the
ancient city of Algidum, now covered with woods, the haunt
of notorious robbers. Monte Porcio, on the west, the re-
Euted birth-place of Cato, and the hereditary property of
is family, is a highly interesting object. It was here that
Curius bentatus, the triumphaiit conqueror of Pyrrhus,
fixed his humble abode, and was found boiling his turnips
when the Samnite ambassadors came to proffer him their
gold. Below Monte Porcio the country people pointed out
to us the Porcian Meadows, the Frati Forciiy as they still
call them. They also showed us Colonna, near which, and
at the base of Monte Falcone, is the Lake Eegillus, — ^now
little better than a puddle, — so famed for the victory gained
over the sons of Tarquin, when Castor and Pollux, after
fighting in the ranks oi the Eoman army, brought the news
of the victory with preternatural speed to Eome, and dis-
appeared with their foaming steeds in the waters of the
Li^e Jutuma.
At Frascati we mounted our asses and ascended the hill
to visit the site of Tusculum, having, with some difficulty,
* Horace, lib. i, Od. 21, calls it " OeUdo Algido."
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SITE OF Tir^CITLFM. 348
got the mob of ragged ciceroni who flocked around us, —
ambitious, not of the honour but the profit of attending us,
reduced to one-half. Emerging from the woods which cover
its lower part, we passed the Capuchin convent, and soon
began to remark the stones and weed-covered heaps that
form the scattered remains of the city whose name is famed
throughout the civilized world.
The laurel flourishes at the Buffinella, formerly the
country-house of the Jesuits, now Lucien Bonaparte's, and,
in the opinion of many, once the site of Cicero*s Tusculan
Villa, it is situated high on the hill, near the ruins of
Tusculum, and therefore it perhaps would seem a more
probable situation for it than &rotta Ferrata, two miles off,
in the valley. Some bricks that were picked up here, in-
scribed with the name of Cicero, seem to give support to
this opinion ; for if his villa had been at Grotta Ferrata, it
seems improbable that such heavy articles would have been
brought from thence up this mountain to add to the useless
heaps that were before lying here from the wreck and ruin
of the city. We may therefore, perhaps, venture to indulge
the belief that we really stand upon the site of the Villa of
Cicero, and that the beautiful mosaic pavement found here,
of a Minerva's head surrounded with masks, now in the
Vatican, once belonged to it.
Some people again have imagined that he had one villa
here, near the top of the hill, and another at the bottom, at
Grotta Ferrata. It certainly seems improbable that he
should have had two villas within two nules of each or the,
— ^though the Borghese family have now three within a
circuit of the same extent. Cicero, however, always speaks
of one Tusculan villa only, and he ought to know best.
But the hypothesis of the two villas was that which pleased
our guides ; and they pointed out to us some ruins above
the Kuffinella, consistmg of a sort of portico with two
ranges of arches, and assured us these were the real iden-
tical ruins of Cicero's upper villa, and that a subterranean
way, of which they showed us the mouth, leads from hence
to Grotta Ferrata, his lower villa: though why Cicero
should have made the road to his house underground rather
than above is somewhat difficult to understand. One of
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844 BOHX.
these men declared he had advanced akn^ it more tiian a
mile with a Eussiao, who would explore it, but that thej
were then obliged to turn back, being nearly suffocated — ^a
misfortune that might probably hare happened to Cicero
himself, if he had ever eone that road.
My learned donkey-ariYer and cicerone — ^for so he styled
himself-— next pointed out some remains of buildings, which
he called ^ La seuola di Oicerane' (the school of Cicero),
and he straightway began to explain to us who Cicero was,
conceiying him to be a personage whom we neyer could
haye heard of; and he certainly eaye us much new informa-
tion concerning him, for he tola us that he waa ' u» grofiC
maestro,^ not of philosophy or rhetoric, but ' of languages ;'
and that he taught a great many ragazTsini (little boys)
twenty-four different tongues — ^not to mention reading,
writing, and arithmetic !
It would haye been impossible to haye conyinced him that
Cicero was not a schoolmaster.* To this ayocation, he
assured us, Oicerone added that of showing all the eose rare
of the place to strangers (like himself), on which account
he, our cicerone, was called after him !
Among the shapeless heaps of ruin which coyer the hiH,
the aradus of an ancient amphitheatre are yery discernible,
the lower parts of which are entirely oyergrown with bushes
and brambles. Our guide called it a Colcieo ; for this, from
an indiyidual, has become a generic, name for amphitheatres,
— at least I suppose so, for I heard it also at Old Capua, —
just as a Vesvmo is the uniyersal Italian appellation of a
yolcano.
On one of the large blocks of stone that were lying about
near here, dug up in Lucien Bonaparte's late excayation, I
obseryed this inscription :
.... LOCAVIT P. GABINI
I haye since found that other yestiges had preyiously given
* We find, by one of Cicero's letters, that when driTon into retire-
ment, after the death of Pompey, he instituted a philosophical academy
in his own house at Tusculum ; some confused idea of which, picked up
from the discourse of the strangers whom he followed, had doubtless
occasioned the blunder <tf our ragged guide as to the profession of
Cicero.
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BTJiyS AJSTD EXCATATIOKS. 845
rise to the belief that the villa of Gkibinius was near here,
aoid this inscription, perhaps placed by some descendant of
the Tribune, seems to confirm it.
Prince Lucien is carrying on the excavations amongst
the ruins of Tusculum with great spirit. He has abeady
brought to light an ancient street, or road, paved with large
flat unsquared stones, laid down in their natural irregular
form, but closely fitted together, like the pavement of the
Via Appia, or the streets of Pompeii. It has a very solid,
but somewhat rude and clumsy appearance. This Tusculan
street, however, has not, like those of Pompeii, side-paths,
or trottoirs, for foot-passengers, though, like them, it has a
fountain at the comer.*
The reticulated walls of a row of houses, with remains of
yellow stucco upon them, still more strongly reminded us of
the disinterred mansions of Pompeii. I wonder if the tra-
vellers, who tell us that in its streets " they could not help
being astonished that the inhabitants of the town did not
appear," would have the same feelings here. I own I never
experienced them in either place. I never "hesitated to
enter a house in Pompeii, lest the master should come to
meet me," or expected che oil-merchant, or the wine-seller
"to jump up behind the little marble counters of their
shops." t Indeed, this impression is to me wholly incom-
prehensible. Broken walls, open doorways, empty chambers,
* In these simple fountams, the water genenlly flows through the
open mouth of a marble ram's head, or sometimes a mask, into a deep
trough or cistern.
t There are two oil-shops at Pompeii, with large earthem jars for
the oil, sunk in the narrow marble counter. In another shop, this little
dab of marble is marked with rims, apparently stained from the wet
bottoms of cups ; and as coffee was unknown in those days, we must
suppose it to have been a plaoe for the sale of wine, or liqueurs, if they
had any. We know that Thermopolia, or shops where warm liquors were
sold, were in use as early as the first Punic war, and probably this was
one of the Thermopolia of Pompeii Next door to one of the oil-shops,
is a baker's shop, with a furnace and oven for baking bread, and great
stone mills, exactly on the construction of our coffee hand-mills, for
grinding the flour. Is it possible that the ancient Romans had no
better contriyance) Scripture, which was contemporaneous with this
period, speaks of "two women grinding at a mill;"— in all probability
just such a mill as this at Pompeii
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846 BOME.
with the painted stucco half stripped off; floors, with the
parement torn up ; and houses whoUj roofless, and open to
the li^ht of heaven,— can this give an idea of habitation ?
No — ^it presents an appearance of a ruined and forsaken
city, whose inhabitants have gone down to the grave. It
is, indeed, wonderful to think that two thousand years ago
these chambers, and streets, and theatres, and temples, were
thronged with busy citizens — ^wonderful to see the fi^shness
of the paintings where they have been left on the walls, of
the names of the people above their doors, of the idle, un-
meaning scrawls, scratched in their vacant hours, of the
stone trielimum where they used to eat, and of the marble
altars where they used to worship. But there is nothing to
remind us of present life, or human occupation. All is
ruinous and desolate. I ought, perhaps, to except the half-
finished buildings of the Forum, with its basOica, temples, &c.,
which, having been shattered by one of the earthquakes that
gave warning (unheeded, uncomprehended warning) of the
coming destruction, — ^the unfortunate Fompeians were in
the act of repairing and rebuilding, when Vesuvius, after the
repose of countless ages, burst forth into those flames that
have never since been quenched, and into that tremendous
eruption which overwhelmed their city beneath its ruins.*
There, indeed, every object tends to impress the eye with
the belief of present business and occupation. The large
blocks of stone, half-chipped over with the fresh marks of
the chisel, — ^the flags lymg ready to insert in the hatf-
finished pavement — ^the Doric columns round the Porum
* Pompeii was covered with the soft ashes from the volcano, which
are easily removed. So, probably, was the neighbouring village (or
rather, perhaps, villa) of Stabiae. Herculanetun is, however, filled with
a substance which time has turned into stone. It was formerly thought
to be congealed lava ; but had that fiery torrent inundated the city, the
bronze statues, and all the metallic and glass vessels, which were found
entire, would have been fused ; it is therefore conjectured that the beds
of ashes which filled it almost instantaneously, were mixed with the
streams of boiling water which are thrown out in every eruption, and
were, we know, in this ; and that this mud, hardening, has produced
the tufo which fills it. The impression of the head of one of the bronze
statues was found on the stone in which it was cased, like a mould ; so
that the mass must have been in a liquid or soft form when it closed
round it.
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VIEW TEOM TEASCATI. 347
half-raised, — ^the temples at the extremities half-built, — the
walls of unequal height half-carried up, — ^all had such an air
of new buildings going on, that, mistaking the men who
were digging out the rubbish for workmen employed in
erecting them, a gentleman of our party indignantly asked
them what they were building there r
Excepting this spot in Pompeii, — the last excavated, and
by far the most interesting, — there is nothing to call up
such a delusion ; nothing that does not speak of the past
rather than the present.
I remember nothing surprised me more in Pompeii, thau
the diminutive size of every object. The narrow track of
the wheels down the streets, which showed the smaUness
of their carriages ; the little streets themselves ; the little
houses ; the ridiculously little rooms, no larger than a light
closet ; the little shops, and even the Httle temples, seemed
calculated for a race of pigmies ; and one could hardly un-
derstand how that portly personage — ^a Eoman in his toga,
could have moved about in them.*
But I forget that I am at Tusculum, not at Pompeii.
Its few remaiQs that are above ground I have already
noticed. It seems to have been built upon the bed of some
volcanic eruption of incomputable antiquity, for lavas have
been dug out below the ruins, and also quantities of cinders,
like those of Vesuvius ; with which, indeed, the whole hill
is covered. In this respect, too, it resembles Pompeii,
where, beneath the foundations of the houses, lavas, &c.
are brought up ; and even at the distance of three hundred
Ealmst below the surface (the greatest depth that has been
ored), volcanic matter is stiU found.
Prom the summit of the hill of Prascati, the view is most
grand and extensive. The eye, resting for a moment on
the towers and cupolas of Home, and, more than all, on the
great dome of St. Peter's, wanders far over the wide plain
of the Campagna, to the purple heights of Mount Ciminus
and Soracte, on the north ; to the Sabine Hills, backed by
* Excavations have been carried on to such an extent at Pompeii
since the authoress visited it, that many larger streets and buildings
may probably have been brought to light.
t Upwards of 170 feet.
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348 BOHX.
the lof^ Apemunes, on the east ; and to the blue waters
of the Mediterranean, which bound the prospect, on the
west.
On our left, immediately above ns, rose the wood-covered
height of Monte Cavo, towering in majesty to the skies.
Far beneath us, on the right, the little lake of Gabii, where
stood the ancient city of that name, attracted the eye by
its gleaming waters ; so totally destitute of banks, that it
looked like a looking-glass lying on the ground.
In descending, we stopped at the Euffinella. Lucien
Buonaparte has bestowed much money, but little taste, in
its embellishment. Ancient ilex, the growth of ages, have
been lopped into skeleton trees, and are interspersed with
little parterres, newly made, embroidered with the names
of Homer, Virgil, Eacine, Ac, planted in box, and framed
in the same! The statue of Apollo has been stuck up
amongst them, as if this ingenious device had been inspired
by that god himself. There is no want of bad busts and
modem statues, clipped hedges, and formal ^rass walks.
Forlorn dirty offices meet the eye ; the slovenly, neglected
appearance of everythiag gives this princely villa an air
of utter wretchedness ; and we look in vain for flowers or
shrubs, for bloom or fi*agrance, for nature or beauty.
The chapel in the interior is pretty, and contams three
tolerable paintings by Carlo Maratti, — ^a monument, erected
by Prince Lucien to his first wife, who died at the age of
twenty-six; another to his son, who died in the prime of
youth ; and a third to his own and Napoleon's father, who
was bom at Corsica, and died at Mon^elier, at the age of
thirty-six, and who, judging from his bust, must have had
an uncommonly fine commanding coimtenanee.
In the little town of Frascati, we saw the tomb of
Lucullus, a name which tradition alone has given. Once
it has been a magnificent building, but now it serves for a
•ig-stye. The exterior is nearly destroyed, and two dirty
lOuses are bmlt against it.
I forgot to mention, in their proper place, the (knironi
di Lucmlo, as the country people call some curious and very
extensive substractions, in the form of an oblong square,
which Centroni they maintain to have been the cellars of
t
n<
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TOMB OF THB STTTAET TAMILT. 349
that great epicurean's villa. Their extent, indeed, enormous
as it is (and by pacing, the gentlemen of our party com-
puted it to be about 450 feet in length), would scarcely
be disproporfcioned to that of a yilla, which, according to
Pliny,* covered whole acres, and " made land scarce."
According to some accounts, Prascati was the real birth-
place of Metastasio.
In the cathedral, — ^a paltry structure, — ^is a paltry monu-
ment to Cardinal York, the last of the Stuarts, who was
cardinal bishop of this diocese; and another to Prince
Charles Edward, the Pretender.
The inscription, which is sufficiently simple, you may
perhaps like to see. It is as follows : —
"Hie situs est Carolns Odoardus cut Pater Jacobus III. Eez AnglisB,
Scotise, Francise, Hibemise, Primus Katorum, patemi Juris et regisa
dignitatis successor et hasres, qui domicilio sibi Bomae delecto Comes
Albaniensis dictus est
"Vixit Annos LVII et mensem; decessit in Pace. — Pridie Kal.
Feb. Anno MDCCLXXXVIl. "
It was not over the dust of the last of this ill-fated race,
that we could recal to mind their errors ; pity for their mis-
fortunes could not fail to find its way to our hearts ; yet we
could not but reflect, that had they sat on the throne of
their fathers, and their royal tomb arisen in the land of
their birth, we might now have had cause to mourn for the
wrongs and liberties of our country, instead of the misfor-
tunes of her expelled kings.
♦ Pliny, lib. iv, cap. 6.
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850 BOHS.
LETTEB XCI.
Gbotta Febbata — CiCBBo's Villa — Dou^miosrso'B
Fbesoos — Mabiko.
NoTHtNCh caa exceed the beauty of the diire from Frascati
to Albano ; for nine miles we continue to pasa through a
varied succesBion of the most romantic and picturesque
scenery! We first drove through the grounds of the Villa
Giustiniani, and. along a road sh^^cLe^ with umbrageous
woods of oak and ilei, to the church and convent of Grotta
Ferrata, one of the supposfed sites of Cicero's Tusculan
ViUa. The situation is delightful; the ancient trees and
so£k verdant meadows around it, almost remiaded me of
soffl,e'Of the loveliest scenes of England; and the little
brook "that babbles by," was not the less interesting, from,
the thought that its murmurs might, perchance, have once
soothed the ear of Cicero. It is now called the Marana,
but is generally thought to be the Aqtia Orahra, which he
celebrates. Certainly this rivulet affords a strong presump-
tion that it is the true site of Cicero's Villa. He would
scarcely have described it as he does, had it been two miles
off. Some remarkable pieces of sculpture are said to have
been discovered here, which answer to descriptions he gives
in his letters of the ornaments of his villa — ^particularly a
Hermathene, or united statue of Mercury and Minerva —
and a table supported by images of the Gods. A headless
bust inscribed with his name was also dug up here ; and a
medal with a head of Cicero, in fine preservation, is also
said to have been found here. Two small bas-reliefs, which
are placed in the adjacent episcopal palace,* are still to be
• The same palace fonnerly inhabited by Cardinal York, which at
the time of our visit, was in the posaession of Cardinal Qonsalvo, the
then Bishop of FrascatL
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I TIL.
^■-.H-^ i
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GEOTTA rSBEiiBA. 851
t9een. One represents a young philosoplier, sitting with a
scroll in his hand; the other (a strange subject), martial
figures, supporting legs of a semi-colossal size.
But so numerous and thickly set were the yillas of the
Bomans at Tusculum in all ages of the republic and empire,
that perhaps fancy alone could lead us to suppose it pos-
sible now to trace the vestiges or the site of the only one
which excites our interest — ^the Villa of Cicero; and the
spot we view with veneration as consecrated by his genius,
may have been the retreat of the infamous Agnppina.*
The convent of G^reek BasiHan monks at Qrotta Eerrata
was founded by a St. Nilo, or Nilus, in the tenth century,
and if there was anything so heathenish as a vestige of
Cicero's Villa at that time, no doubt he would piously sweep
it all away. But the loss of the ruins of Cicero's Villa did
not give me half so much pain as the sight of the ruins of
Domenichino's eighteen frescos, which are mouldering on
the mildewed walls of the musty old chapels of the saints,
and are already so destroyed that the next generation will
probably never behold them. Yet there is one of them (the
Demoniac Boy) which is beyond all comparison the finest
of his works, — ^not even, I tmnk, excepting the Communion
of St. Jerome ; nor do I know any painting in the world
that surpasses it, except some of Itaphad's. You will
remember that the subject is the same tnat forms the lower
and principal picture of the Transfiguration ; but Domeni-
chino has avoided all approach to it, as completely as if he
had never seen the work of his great predecessor. The poor
possessed boy, — ^the touching agony expressed in his twisted
muscles and distorted features, — ^his upturned eyes, his
gasping mouth, his convulsed Hmbs, ana his whole figure,
struggSng in the arms of his afflicted father, perhaps equal,
— and, if I may be allowed to say so, surpass — the iJemoniac
of !fiaphael. In other respects, the composition is less
learned and complicated. There are fewer figures, — conse-
quently not the same room for the masterly variety, and
contrast of forms, expression, and attitude, that excite
never-ending admiration, in the crowd without confusion
* Agrippina had a splendid villa here. Tacitns, Ann. lib. ziv,
cap. 3.
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852 BOMi.
that fills the canvas of Bapbael. But the few figures that
Domenichino has introduceo, perhaps possess, &om that rery
circumstance, a deeper interest, and an expression that takes
more forcible hold on the mind. The saint, whose finger is
pressed on the lip of the poor sufferer, while his other hand
reaches the sacred oil that is to work the cure, is stnkinglj'
fine ; and the earnest attention of the two little boys looking
on, is nature itself. But the mother kneeling, watching in
breathless suspense the fate of her child, as if life hung upon
its gasp, — the whole expression, countenance, attitude, and
drapery of this figure, are a masterpiece of perfection, and
may well stand a comparison with the female in the l^^ans-
figuration.
The next in merit of these frescos, is the visit of the
emperor to this convent, and his reception by St. Nilus, —
with all the pomps of attendants and horses; a splendid
composition, full of spirit and life. In the youth who is
retreating from an unruly horse, Domenichino is said to
have painted the portrait of the young woman of Erascati
with whom he was in love, but who was refused him by her
parents. St. Nilus is also the portrait of one of the monks,
a friend of Domenichino' s.
The next fresco represents a miracle which took place at
the building of the very chapel in which we are stending.
We behold the fell of a column upon the afl&ighted people,
in consequence of the ropes breaking by which the work-
men were raising it ; but it luckily happens that St. Bartho-
lomew is looking at the plan of the bunding at the moment,
and, therefore, one of his disciples miraciuously saves the
people's heads from being broken by propping up the falling
column. This is an admirable production, but it is even
more injured than the other.
Another fresco, but of somewhat inferior merit, represents
St. Bartholomew, by his prayers, saving the harvest of his
convent from destruction by rain. Another seems to repre-
sent the assembled monks, attended by a long frmeral train,
praying around the dead body of St. Nilus. In another,
and one of the finest of the whole, the Virgin appears
surrounded with angels and seraphim stooping from the
clouds to present to the kneeling saints (Nilus and Bartho-
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IcMnew) a golden apple. Of the rest, the subjects can now
be scarcely traced.
At Marino — a pretty little town, most picturesquely situ-
ated on the summit of a rocky hill, overhanging a romantic
woody deU — ^we stopped to see the churches, which, being
Priday evening, were crowded with people. At one of
them we saw — what I had rather not have seen — ^the Trinity
by Guido — in which the Eternal Father is represented as a
stupid-looking old man in a red cloak. In the cathedral
we saw an injured but very fine painting of Gruercino's St.
Bartholomew ready to suffer Death — ^two ruffian execution-
ers by his side. At another altar there is a painting of
considerable but inferior merit, which seems to be only in
part his work. It represents the martyrdom of St. Barna-
bas, who was roasted alive, and who is supposed throughout
Italy to be the great protector from fire. A little penny
print of this saint pasted on their cottage-doors, is esteemed
by the Italian peasants a far surer guarantee against the
injuries of the devouring element, than all the stamps of
the fire-insurance offices amongst us.
Marino, anciently Ferentinum, was so called from the
fountain of the Aqua FerentinaB, the source of which is still
shown in the Colonna gardens. A ruined building in the
woods, which, unfortunately, the closing day forbade us to
visit, we were assured, is the remains of the Temple of
Ferentina.
Pursuing our way, we walked down the steep hill into
the romantic dell below, the carriages following. At the
bottom, the bridge crossing the brawling stream; the rocks
overhanging it, shaded by drooping plants ; the ruined ivy-
covered Gothic tower, rising far above the deep thick woods
of oak and ilex ; and the bright verdure of the gay meadows;
formed one of the most delightful scenes I ever beheld, —
admirably calculated for painting. In the foreground was
the road winding abruptly round, and at one comer, a
fountain and large peservou*, at which the country women,
in the most picturesque dresses imaginable, were washing
and beating their clothes, talking and laughing with a
hilarity that was Cfoite new to us, after bemg so many
months shut up with the sombre Eomans. We proceeded
VOL. II. 2 A.
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354 BOMS.
along thiB beautiful woody dell,, with Monte Gavo towermg
above us, till we came at once into full view of the Lake of
Albano, and beheld the deep clear basin of its waters, the
bright verdure of its sloping banks, the rich foHage of the
chesnut-trees, contrasting with the dark Cyprus and ilex,
and the glowing tints of the evening sky, which assumed
every varying hue as we contiaued to wina along above the
lake. Passing Castel Gandolfo, the summer residence of
the Pope, we entered Albano by an avenue of noble ilex
trees,, two miles in length.
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THE ALBAir LAKE. 355
LETTEE XCn.
AlTTIQXTITIES OP AlBAJ^O — ThB EmISSABITTH OF THE
Alban Lake — The Nymphjeum of Domitiaw — ^Eijlns
OF Domitian's Villa — Tomb of Ascaniijs — Tomb of
Pompet — ^Alba Lokga — ^ANTEDiLimAir Vases.
These is no antiquity in the world more remarkable than
the great Emissarium, or outlet of the Alban Lake.. It
was made nearly four hundred years before the Christian
era, when Eome was an infant state. It is a tunnel a mile
and a half in length, bored through the mountain of Albano,
for the most part through the solid rock, and built of solid
mason-work. It was done to carry off the waters of the
lake, which, without any apparent cause, had suddenly over-
flowed their banks, and then risen to such a height as to
threaten Eome itself, and the whole plain of Latiimi, with
inundation. This happened during the long-protracted siege
of Veii. Messengers were sent to consult the Delphic
oracle, who brought back for answer, that Eome would
never be safe, nor Veii taken, till the waters of the Alban
Lake were made to flow to the sea. A Veian prophet and
prisoner had previously announced the same fiat. Inspired
at once by fear and hope, this wonderful work, which
seemed to require a degree of skill and science far beyond
that early age, was, in the same year, begun and ended ;
and so executed, that it would shame this degenerate age.
After a lapse of twenty-two centuries, we find it still answer-
ing its original purpose, as if only built yesterday, and
behold the waters or the Alban Lake still flowing through
it, as they did in the days of Camillus. The channel is six
feet in height, by three and a half in breadth. Three men
only could have laboured in it once; and it is calculated
that by three men (beginning at each end) the most un-
remittmg perseverence would not have brought it to a
conclusion during at least three years. How it was finished
2 A 2
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856 BOMX.
in one, is the question. Piranesi supposes that thej bored
pits in several places through the mountain, down to the
proper level, ancl let men down to continue the works, just
as tunnels are excavated at the present time; and it is
curious to think, if such was the case, that the ancient
Eoman (or more properly Etruscan) system of engineering
should have descended down to us, even to the present day.
Be this as it may, we cannot otherwise now understand the
rapidity with wliich it was executed; we can only admire
the perfection and durability of this grand piece of architec-
ture, which is, perhaps, without exception, the most ancient
and the most noble work of Eoman tunes. The arch, which
is still standing here, must convince the most sceptical, that
the structure of the arch was known to the Bomans at least
four hundred years before the Christian era, and three hun-
dred before the epoch at which certain connoisseurs have
fixed its introduction. But if they shall still maintain that
the polished Greeks, even while they raised those magnifi-
cent buildings that have been the sole models to succeeding
ages and nations, were ignorant of this — one of the first
principles of architecture ; — ^if they shall still maintain, that,
though practised during so many centuries by their* rude
neighbours, the Etruscans and Komans (with whom, too,
they held constant intercourse), it was unknown to them,
I shall certainly leave them in undisputed possession of
their paradox.
In front of the channel of the Emissarium is an open
chamber, or vestibule, — ^if I may call it so, — ^which is in
some degree ruined ; and the machines, works, &c., that
were attached to it for relating the flow of water, as well
as those for the takine of fish, have, of course, long since
vanished. On one si<k of the arch of the Emissarium, from
amongst the immense blocks of stone which form the
massive walls, an ilex tree — ^the largest I ever beheld, that
almost seems coeval with the building itself— has wreathed
its old fantastic roots, and stretching ^rth into four immense
trunks, spreads its broad honzontal branches and luxuriant
depth of shade over the whcde court.
^ot far firom hence, along the shore of the lake, are some
lo% artificial cavesy or grottos, hoUowed out in its rocky,
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GBOTTOS 07 ALBAKO. 357
precipitous banks, called, by the country people, the Bagni
di XHuma, or Orotto delle Ninfe, which are supposed to be
the remains of a NymphsDum built by Domitian.
A soft green sward, spotted with magnificent trees, gently
slopes to the margin of the water ; luxuriant ivy, hanging in
wreaths nearly to the ground, shades its mouth, and a
multitude of wild plants mingle their green pensile foHage
from, the rocks above. The natural grandeur of this im-
mense cavern, the vaulted roof, the lofty arches, and long
withdrawing recesses, partially seen within the deep shade
of its interior ; the sunny brightness of the rocks ana trees,
and romantic banks without; the woody height of Monte
Cavo towering into the bright blue heavens, and reflected in
the (»*ystal mirror of the lake; the verdure and stillness
and seclusion that breathe around, fbiin one of the most
enchanting scenes I ever beheld.
The ancient nymphsBa were generally hollowed out like
this in the sides of steep hills, and no place could be more
happily chosen for this purpose than the cool margin of the
Alban Lake. I have alreaay noticed those delicious retreats
of coolness and of shade, where the luxurious Eomans, in
the oppressive heats of suinmer, used to recline on marble
-seats, to breathe in stillness and repose, amidst their fresh
flowing fountains, and to gaze on theur limpid basins, which
reflected the statues of the nymphs that were fabled to
haunt them.
Virgil beautifully describes them :
'^ Fronte sub adversa scopulis pendentibus antrum ;
Intus aquae dulces, vivoque sedilia saxo ;
Kympharum domus."*
As the grottos on this lake, however, form, so far as I
know, the only undoubted remains of an ancient nymphseum
now left in the world, I shall give you a more particular
account of them.* The entrance of the principal grotto is a
widei^and lofty arch of fine Eoman brickwork, through which
the sunbeams, playing amidst waving wreaths of ivy, break
• Mn. lib. i, ver. 167.
"t An andent mosaic picture of a Kymphaeum was found on the
Quirinal Hill, and fonnerlj was in the Barberini CollectioE. There is
an engraving of it in the Rom. Ant torn, iv^ p. 99d.
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BOILB.
beautifiiUj on the cavemed roof. On the left, on entering,
is a large semicircular recess, or alcove ; on the right, four
niches for statues. Another arch, of the same span as the
entrance, here crosses the grotto, and beyond it, on either
side, are three niches for statues.
Opposite, at the far extremity of the grotto, two arches
of unequal size divide the breadth into two .alcoves, op
recesses ; the largest contains one reservoir which has much
the appearance of a bath ; the other has two smaller reser-
voirs, or baths, close to each other. Behind the wall on the
left side, which contains the alcove and the three niches
already mentioned, and between it and the rock, a narrow
concealed passage runs along, and issues out in the large
alcove at the farther extremity of the grotto. But a sketch
of the plan, however clumsily drawn, wiU perhaps give you a
clearer idea of it than my description.
Larger Becesa,
Smaller Recess.
Arch of Entrance.
The channels for the water to flow down the rock into the
reservoirs are still distinctly visible, and the reservoirs are
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DOMITIASr's VILLA. 869
yet more than lialf-filled with water. The irregularity of
their size and that of the whole plan is singular, and the nse
of the concealed passage rather unaccountable. Perhaps
the great recess at the side contained the statue of Diana,
and the ten niches the statues of her nymphs. I should
suppose this grotto to have been a natimil one, but con-
Biderably enlarged by art. There is a smaller cave formed
in the rock on each side of this, but no remains of bmlding
about either of them. The mouth of one of them is so
choked up with trees and wild bushes, that it is difficult to
discover it, and stiU more difficult to penetrate into it, which
we did, without making any very notable discoveries in
reward for the scratches we received.
These are by no means the only remains of the erections
of Domitian at Albano. Among the extensive grounds of
the YiOa Barberini, near the town, on the hill above, are
scattered many vestiges of his magnificent villa, which is
said to have comprised the ViOas of Clodius and of Pompey.
The most curious of these are some long ranges of a Crypto
JPartico, by some thought a part of Clodius* s "insane
structures," as Cicero calls them.* Inunense conduits for
water, shattered waUs, and other fragments of ancient
buildiiigs, are met with here and there overgrown with a
Profusion of ivy, half-lost in thickets of laurel, myrtle, and
oily, — ^while ilex-trees, the growth of centuries, throw over
them their impenetrable depth of shade.
The view from the terrace of this villa, which is supported
on these ancient arches and substructions of Domitian' s
(perhaps, too, Clodius' s) Villa, is in the highest degree
striking and beautiful ; but I resist the temptation of de-
scribing it, although the Mils, the plains, the shores, were
* "Insanis molibus oppresserat." — Oic. pro T. Ann, MUone. It was
impossible, amidst these hills and " sacred groves/' not to remember
Cicero's beautifal invocation to them, towards the close of the above
unparalleled oration, or to raise our eyes to the majestic summit of that
lofty mount, without being tempted to exclaim with him, — " Tuque ex
tuo edito monte, Latialis sancte Jupiter, cujus ille lacus, nemora,
finesque," &c.
At a place called Le Fratocchie, formerly Bovillee, near the base of
the Alban Mount, the murder of Clodius by Milo is supposed to have
taken place.
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360 BOlfE.
replete with a thousand classic remembrances ; and far over
the blue waters of the Mediterranean, which bathes the long
line of coast, my eye was caught by the Island of Ponza, the
ancient abode of illustrious IU)man exiles.
At the Convent of St. Paul, are some walls built of large
square blocks of stone, supposed to have formed part of
Domitian*s PrsBtorian Camp; and in the gardens of the
convent are some ruins of an amphitheatre.
In a vineyard, called, I think, the Vigna Marzellif for-
merly belonging to the Jesuits, are some trifling remains of
an aqueduct, and of a building called the Tomb of Tullia.
The ruins called the Celle 3fo;e,. obviously Gella Moffni—
or halls of the Great [Pompey], must have Deen remains of
his villa.
We also observed a church which seems to have been
an ancient circular building — probably the Eotunda to some
Thermae.
At either end of the tovm of Albano, an ancient tomb
excites the attention of the traveller. That which stands a
little on the left of the road, on entering Albano fix)mEome,
is a high pyramidal structure, once covered with marble and
adorned with three orders of marble columns, but now
entirely despoiled : it is called the Tomb of Ascanius. The
other, at the southern extremity of -the tovm, and on the
road to Naples, is a square edifice of immense soHdity, built
of large blocks of stone, and crovnied with five small pyra-
mids, of which two only are now entire. This is called the
Tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii, the ^ye pyramids being
thought to commemorate the five slaughtered combatants;
and accordingly an inscription, placed upon it by a modem
Eoman family, asserts tiie facH But Livy tells us, the
scene of that memorable combat was at the Mssa Ohdlia^
the spot where Hannibal afterwards encamped, supposed to
be on the Yia Latina, beside the reputed temple of Fortuna
MuMebris; and certainly vdthin five miles of Home;* and
as the five fallen combatants were interred on the field of
battle, it is vain to look for their tomb here.
By others, this sepulchre is denominated the Tomb of
^ lAvjy lib. i, c. 23 ; lib. ii, c. 89. Liyy also states that Haimibal
afterwards encamped upon the same spot.
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CITY 07 AI.B1. LOlfTGA. 861
V
Pbmpey, whose ashes, according to Plutarch, were brought
from Egypt by Cornelia. According to Pliny, Strabo, and
many ancient authors, he was buried at Moimt Casius, in
Egypt.* According to a third supposition, it is a cenotaph
erected to his memory ; and, in either case, the five pyra-
mids are supposed to commemorate the five victories he
gained before his first consulship. Plutarch also tells us,
that the family mausoleum of Pompey was at Alba Longa,
but we have no reason to imagine tms to be it. The fact is,
that this ancient sepulchre, as well as * the Tomb of Asca-
nius,' is unknown, and busy conjecture has supplied the
place of history.
According to Dionysius Halicamassus, th6 ancient city of
Alba Longa was between the Alban Mount and the sea.
Any of the antiquaries will show you the exact site, and you
may choose out of the variety you will see, if you apply to
them all. There is not, of course, a single vestige of it,
A great deal of noise was made about some cinerary urns
of terra-cotta, which were dug up near Castel Grandolfo, and
which we were gravely assured last winter, were antedilu-
vian, and had been deposited in that spot before the
Peluge! Several treatises of great length and learning
were written to prove this, and it was established in the
most satisfactory manner, till suddenly, to the confusion
of the antediluvians, they proved to be Gothic! Some
foreigners (in their right senses) brought indisputable
evidence of urns, so precisely similar, having been found in
Prussia, and various parts of G-ermany, in Sweden, Den-
mark, and England, that even the antediluvians were com-
pelled to admit the truth. What can we think of the
sanity of a set of archeological Academicians, that gravely
pronounced some clay urns to be antediluvian !
I ought to have told you that this notion was put into
their heads, in consequence of finding the urns, as was
pretended, under a stratum of tufo. If this was true, the
stone might have been subsequently formed without being
antediluvian. Modern geological discoveries prove not only
the possibility, but frequency of such formations.
* Pliny, lib. xii.
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BOMJS.
LETTER XCin.
Ascent of the Albait Mouttt — Camp of HANismsAL —
Tbiumphal Wat — Convent ,or Feiaes — ^Yolcanos —
Lake of Nemi — Aeicia — Civita Layinia — Coea —
Temple of Heectjles — Cyclopean Walls.
If I could, by description, convey to you any part of the
pleasure I myself enjoyed in our expedition to the top of
Monte Cavo, I would give it to you at large ; but as mere
words can never paint the varied beauty of such scenery, I
shall be as sparing of them as possible.
After breakfast; on a beautiful May morning, at the door
of the inn we mounted our donkeys, which carried us all
with great ease and safety, although the long legs of some of
the gentlemen neariy touched the ground. We passed the
Capuchin convent, the terrace of which — ^forbidden to women
— commands a most beautiful prospect, and then, turning
along the banks of the lake, wound through magnificent
woods and thick copses of oak, chesnut, and hazel, looking
down into the deep crystal basin below, and above to the
towering summit of the classic mountain, whose sylvan sides
we were ascending. I observed some ancient broken con-
duits for water here and there in the ground on our right.
Amidst the trees appeared a rustic chapel to the Madonna.
She is called La Madonna del Tufo^ because she was found
under the tufo or soft volcanic stone. Like the vases, I
wonder they did not make her out to be an antediluvian
Madonna. But she is a very miraculous Madonna; and I
am assured the day never passes without her working some
miracle, more especially in the curing of cows, for which she
is highly famed. We soon passed Palazzuola (the most
favourite site for Alba Longa), which is now a villa of the
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MOKTE OAVO 363
Coloniia family, with anotliep convent of Franciscans attached
to it. Near it, by the road-side, are some immense caverns,
supported by pillars of rock, said be natural, but evidently
much enlarged by art. The wide arches of the rocky roof,
the long perspective of the interior, indistinctly seen in dis-
tance, dividing into remote passages and crossing arches, had
a singularly fine effect beneath the hanging rocks and ancient
trees that bend over them. The country people call them
the Grottos of Ascanius, and a tomb, a httle farther along,
they call the Tomb of Ascanius, not satisfied with the one
he has already got possession of at Albano. But as As-
canius was not a Boman consul, and as this tomb has twelve
consular fasces, with the axes, it must have been the tomb
of a consul, and consequently not his. It has also a Eoman
eagle and a globe resting on a sceptre, sculptured upon it,
so that it would seem to have been the tomb of an emperor.
Some, however, think that it was an habitation for the living,
not for the dead ; a part of the Consular House, where the
Boman consuls slept during the celebration of the Ferice
LatifKP, which the deputies of forty-seven cities attended.
This solemnity, in latter times, lasted four days ; and if any
informality or omission had taken place in the ceremony,
the whole was recommenced JS-om the beginning. The
principal magistrates of all the cities of Latium assembled
lor this purpose, and, led by the Boman consul, ascended in
solemn procession to the Temple of Jupiter Latialis, where
they offered the sacrifice of an ox, of which every one
carried away a portion. States at war with each other
desisted from hostilities during this holy "truce of Grod;"
and every treaty or engagement was here solemnly ratified
in the sacred presence of their Supreme Deity.
StiU ascendmg through the woods, we at length emerged
from them at the village of Bocca di Papa, anciently Forum
iPoptdi, which hangs over the lake on a steep shelving ledge
of bare rock that terminates in a fine point, crowned with
tufted ilex. We scrambled through this almost perpendi-
cular village, on our feet, the poor asses being here scarcely
able to pull themselves up, and were much pleased with the
appearance of the people, who seem a much hardier, more
industrious and contented race than those of the plain.
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364 BOMS,
The women, decently and most picturesquely dresised, were
sitting twirling the spindle at their ootta^doors; and,
strange to tell, they did not beg I The children, too, had
genendly shoes and stockings ; a change I had also obseired
at Prascati and Albano.
The soil green sloping lawns above the village, which we
next passed through, are called I Fruti d* Annibale; and
the tradition is still told, that the Carthaginian pitched his
camp here, and looked down upon the city he meant to
suboue. There is nothing improbable in the tale ; for, from.
the account Livy gives of Hannibal's route, both on his
way fix)m Campania, when he vainly summoned Tusculum
to surrender, and back again, after his unsuccessM bravado
at the gates of Eome, it is plaiQ he passed over these lulls.*
Previous to this, on his way to Capua, inmediately after the
fatal battle of CanmB, it would seem he made a halt upon
the mountains near Eome.t
We now began to ascend the last and steepest part of the
mountain, through thick woods of chesnut, and soon joined
the ancient Via Triumphalis, which is paved in the usual
way with large irregular shaped stones closely fitted to-
gether, and forming a flat surface. It has the letters Y and
N in many places still engraved upon it. The road is in
high preservation, about the same breadth as the streets of
Pompeii, and like them marked with the wheels of the cars
or carriages. In this case, however, it could not be the
track of the triumphal cars, for the lesser triumph only, the
ovation, was celebrated here, when the victor walked on
foot. Pope Alexander VII, indeed, was drawn up it in
triumph in a carriaige !
The summit of the mountain is covered with soft green
turf, perhaps one-fourth of a mile in circumference, the
centa'e of which is occupied, not by the proud temple of
Jupiter Latialis, but by a convent of Passionist Friars,
built on its substructions ; and some large blocks of stone,
which form the only remains of it, are set up to form a
slovenly fence for their weed-covered garden, which they are
* Livy, lit), xxvi, cap. It).
t "In propinquis urbis montlbus moratus est" — Com. Nepos, in
Hannibal.
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HISTOBIO BGEHTEUr, 865
too lazy even to cultivate. These good fathers were, luckily
for us, at dinner when we arrived, and weU knowing we
should obtain no admittance with their consent, we stole in
at the open door, and proceeded straight up to the very top
of the convent, from whence we enjoyed one of the most
beautiM, extended, and classic prospects in the worid. All
Latium lay like a map beneath our feet ; the regions far to
the south, which, in returning from Naples, we had seemed
to leave behind for ever, were once more revealed to our
view. From the rocky cliffs of Anxur washed by the waves,
where fancr^, even at this distance, almost seemed to give to
our sight the ruined temples we had visited on its height ;
along the low marshy waste of the Pontine Marshes,
bounded on one side by the range of the Yolscian Hills,
on the other by the blue line of the Mediterranean, whose
waters encircled the lofty promontory of Circe, and bathed
the depopulated walls of Antium, Lavinium, and Lauren-
tium; we gazed upon towns and villages, and mountains,
&med in early history and in classic song ; upon the very
field of all the battles in the iEneid, where Tumus and
^neas had fought, and
" The Bwift Camilla Bcoured along the plain ;'^
— ^upon the ancient Tiber, winding its silent course through
the deserted Campagna, and encircling, in a last embrace,
the Insula Sacra, Defore its waters mingled with the ocean ;
— upon Eome, with the stupendous ruins of the Colosseum,
and the proud dome of St. Peter's; — ^upon the northern
heights of Mount Ciminus and Soracte, that seemed to shut
us from the land of our birth ; — ^and upon the range of the
Sabine EiUs, and the lofty summits of the Apennines, that
in proud and embattled grandeur rose up into the heavens,
as if to fence in the classic plains of Italy. The very spot
on which we stood, at the summit of the mountain, was the
same from whence Juno surveyed the two contending
armies, previous to the last combat of the -Slneid, and
addressed her angry complaints to Jutuma, the goddess
of the lake below, the transformed sister of the msfartii-
nate l\imus.
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866 BOMS.
At Juno, e summo, qui nunc Albanus babetnr,
Turn neque nomen erat, nee honos aut gloria monti*
Prospiciens tumulo, campum adspectabat, et ambas
Laurentum TroUmque acies, urbemque Latini.
Eztemplo Tumi sic est affata sororem,
Dira deam, stagnis quae, fluminibusque fiororis,
Pnesidety Ac. &c. Ms. lib. zii, y. 134.
"We were disturbed from the enjoyment of tracing, in this
delightful prospect, a thousand spots which our early studies
had made almost as interesting to us as the very recollec-
tions of our childhood, by the approach of the fat old friars,
who came puffing and blowing up the stairs, in grievous
horror and perturbation, caused by hearing of our daring
profanation of their holy j^remises, and who, at the sight of
a party of young ladies, in actual possession of the very
heights of the convent, commenced an outcry such as it was
hardly possible to hear with gravity. Doubtless their rage
and despair were exceedingly increased by the thought of
the smoking viands they had left in the refectory below.
They are a convent of renitents ; and, to judge from their
appearance, eating and drinking must be to them a great
penance, and one they practise most rigorously, for they
are twelve as fat Iriars as ever wore a cowl, — ^more especially
the one whose superior authority was denoted by his supe-
rior corpulency, and who continued to vociferate in alternate
tones of anger, lamentation, menace, and supplication, his
desire for us to depart. At last we did so, and our parting
donation, I believe, almost reconciled them to our trespass.
It is impossible to look down from this height, into the
basin of the Alban Lake, deep sunk within its high and
shelving banks, without feeling impressed with the popular
behef that it has once been the crater of a volcano. Its
form is circular, its circumference is not more than five
miles ; and the hiUs, the rocks, the plains, the very crust of
the earth all around, are so evidently composed of volcanic
matter, that this conviction is irresistibly impressed on our
minds. The Frati d' Armiffale, — the green meadows where
Hannibal was encamped, — are generally thought to have
been the last mouth oi the flaming volcano ; and all around
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LAKE 07 ITEMI. 367
the village of Eocca di Papa, we observed great masses of
lava, and other volcanic stones, precisely similar to many of
the specimens we brought from Mount Vesuvius. It is
curious, if this spot was once the reservoir of fire, that it is
aiow that of snow. Home is supplied with ice from hence,
and it is kept here in pits of fifty feet in depth, with a drain
at the bottom.
The beautiful little Lake of Nemi, a few miles further to
the south, which we had visited on the road to Naples, by
all the vulgar, and most of the scientific, is believed to have
been once a crater. It is still smaller in circumference —
stiU more deeply sunk in woody banks than that of Albano.
So deep, indeed, is the gulf, and so small the aperture, that
it is said even the stormy winds have no power to ruffle its
calm basin, and the poets, therefore, caUed it the Speculum
Dtams. Near this beautiful looking-glass, the goddess had
her celebrated temple. The high priest was called Bex
Nemcyrensis, and was always a fugitive slave, who had ob-
tained his office by killing his predecessor in single combat,
and who held it by the tenure of fighting all the candidates
that aspired to it. The Capuchm convent here, which
commands one of the most heavenly prospects I ever beheld,
is supposed to stand on the hiU and grove of Yirbius.* An
ancient circidar tower, one hundred and twenty feet in
height, called the Torre di Diana, built on a rock projecting
over the lake, has a strikingly picturesque effect, and the
old castle of the Duca di Braschi beneath it is the very
scene for a story of romance.
An ancient Eoman ship was found under water in this
lake, in the fifteenth century, which is called by Di Marchi,
* Where, after Hippolytus had been mardered an^ brought back
to life, —
" Peeoniis revocatum herbis, et amore DianaB,"
and Father Jupiter, in, a passion, had sent old iEsculapius to the
Stygian waves for his pains, he was concealed by Diana —
" At Trivia Hippolytum secretis alma recondit
Sedibus, et nymphes Egeriae nemorique relegat;
Solus ubi in silvis Italis ignobilis sevum
Exigeret, versoque ubi nomine Yirbius esset."
Ms, lib. vii, v. 774.
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868 BOME.
' the bark of Trajan,' though the leaden pipes were inseribed
-with the name of Tiberius. It is minutely described by
Pope Pius II., in the seeond book of his Commentaries. It
seems to. have, been a sort of floating summer vOla for the
Emperor, and to have been fitted up with astonishing splen^
dour; yet still it did not approach to the immensity and
magnincence of the bark of Hiero of Syracuse, which con-
tained haUs paved with mosaic, baths, theatres, and temples ;
nay, even gardens and aqueducts.
Upon the Lake of Nemi is the pretty li^le town of Glen-
sano, the name of which far-fetching .etymologists derive
from Ckfnthianum,* or the fane of Cynthia. Between G-en-
sano and Albano is La Poiocia, or Aricia, where Horace slept
•the first night, of his journey to Brundusium. The Yia
Appia, which crosses the vaUev below the town, is supported
by an immenfle mole, with arcUes; a truly Eosian work, and
well worth seeing, although it is generally passed unnoticed.
It is necessary to descend into the valley in order to have
a good view of it^ for from above, it ia so overgrown with
wild plants, that nothing is disceimible, andTOu may travel
along it without discovering it. This beautiSil valley,-r-the
Vhr Aricia, is the far-famed spot where the nymph Egeria
retired to mourn for Numa, and where, changed into a
fountain, her niuriniirs still teU to the woods her grief.
The fountain of Egeria, or Fonts Gendo, a.8 itjis now cdled,
rushes forth such a powerful and impetuous torrent, that it
immediately turns. mills..
From La Eiccia we made an, excursion, to Ciyita Lavuu%
the Lanuvium of republican days, and passed on the right
the riiins of the famous Temple of Juno Lamuvina, or
Argiya ; so at least it was conjectured, because the statue
of the goddess was found here, whose rites were celebrated
with almost, as much secrecy as those of the Bona Dea, or
the Eleusinian mysteries. We were, however, assiired that
these ruins were a part of the Palace of Evander ! At
Civita Lavinia we saw a ring, to which we were gravely
informed that iElneas had moored his ship! But the La-
* Corrupted into Gensanum, OeMano. It may be ©beerved that
nearly all the Italian nouns, whether proper or common, are taken from
the ablative of the Latin noon.
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TISIT TO GOBI. 869
viiiium of ^neas is supposed by the learned to have been
at a place now called Santa PetroniUa, about eight nules
north of Nettuno, (the ancient Antium,) at the source of
the Numicus, — or what they call the Numicus, which runs
into the sea after a course of three miles. We saw some
ancient Cyclopean walls at Civita Lavinia ; but the Cyclopean
walls at Cora are far more perfect and entire. In our
journey to Naples, we made an excursion from Velletri,*
oyer the Volscian HiUs, to that ancient city. Cistema
would have been a much nearer noint to Cora, but there
we could not procure donkeys ; ana our pilgrimage of four-
and-twenty mortal nules on the backs of these slow animals,
which occupied us from the dawn of day to the fall of
night, through untracked woods and wilds, was not unat-
tended with fatigue, and eyen peril ; these hills being the
notorious haunt of banditti, and Cora itself one of the
chief places of their abode. Luckily, however, we accom-
plished it in safety, and persuaded ourselves that the sight
of its antiquities was a sufficient recompense. The most
striking of these are the remains of the Temple of Hercules.
The ancient Doric portico, with its whole entablature, is
entire. It has four Doric columns in front, which sustain
the simple and beautiful frieze and pediment. Its archi-
tecture was much admired by Baphael, who studied it with
great attention at the time he was employed in the build-
ing of St. Peter's at Eome.
This beautiM portico stands in a singularly fine situation,
upon a led^e, or platform, supported by an ancient wall, on
wnich the murels and cypress, the rocks and wild-spnngiQg
aloes, form a fine foreground. Even the old tower of the
church, rising behind it, adds to the picturesque efiect.
In this church, we saw a beautiful Pagan altar found
here, sculptured with rams' heads and wreaths of flowers,
* At Velletri I was amused to see how aH the Velletriang,— even the
dirty camerieri of onr beggarly inn, piqued themselves upon Augustus
having been a native of Uieir town , — not that this was really the case,
for he was only nursed there. Suetonius (Augustus, 5) expressly says,
that Augustus was bom at Rome, in the ward of the Palatium, at ^e
sign of the Oz-heads, where an JSdicola was afterwards dedicated to
him. The good people of Velletri, however, have actually got his head
stuck up for a sign-post at a public-house.
VOL. II. 2 B
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370 SOME.
and a noble ancient yase, wbich seires for a baptismal font.
In the walls of this church there is a blocked-up doorway;
above which I observed the following inscription : —
M. MANLIUS M. F LIVR.
FILIUS D. DUOMVIRES
PASINASUS .... ENTB AEDBM.
FACIENDAM COLA VERUNTE
lODAMQUE PROLAXBRA.*
It is curious that the name of this man should be M.
Manlius, for none of the family of Manlius were ever
allowed to bear the name of Miircus, after the death of
Capitolinus; and I do not remember that there was any
other family of that name of any note. In another part of
the town, and at another church, are the remains of the
Temple of Castor and Pollux, which chiefly consist of two
noble Corinthian columns, and a fragment of the Meze, on
which is inscribed, —
M. CASTORE POLLUCIDE, C. S. FAC
M. CALYIUS. M . . . . P. N.
In the court of a house are two small Doric pillars, said
to have belonged to the Temple of Diana. But the most
curious of the antiquities at Cora are the Cyclopean Walls,
of which there are very extensive remains. They are of
immense solidity, at least thirty feet in height, ana built of
enormous irregular-shaped stones, set up like flags, with
their smooth flat expanse outwards, and fitted to each other
with the greatest nicety, but without any cement. They
really look as if they had been hammered together by the
labour of the Cyclops. It has been justly remarked, that
they most resemble the ancient pavement of the Via Appia,
or the streets of Pompeii, set up vertically .f
One of the most striking peculiarities in these Cyclopean
walls — and one that, as far as I know, has never yet been
noticed, is that they are built in continual angles, something
* The marks in this inBcription I have made to signify obliterated
letters.
t Vide Winkelman but rArchitectnre.
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CTCLOPEAir WALLS. 871
like the creases of a great Indian screen, when not mucli
drawn out — -in this manner —
There is a very curious ancient bridge, too, called the Ponte
di Catena, built in the same Cyclopean mode of construc-
tion, but, of course, not in these angles. Yitruvius, in
speaking of these very walls of Cora, calls this extraordinary
style of building, * antiquum,' and * incertum,' but throws no
light upon its origin. * Dubious' it must still continue to
be. There is no account more satisfactory in Winkelman,
or any other author of it ; and, excepting that it is of the
highest antiquity, nothing respecting it seems to be known.
One writer (Father Volpi), attributes it to the Groths; but
more enlightened critics will recognize these Cyclopean
walls as works of a very ancient period.
On Trajan's colmnn, an ancient city is represented, with
walls of this construction ; and remams of it are found in
several parts of Greece, and in many of the ancient towns
near Rome, which, like Cora, boast a Greek origin. At the
ruins of a city among the Volscian Hills, about five miles
from hence, called Civita Penatoria, and which I believe was
anciently called Alatri;* at Fondi, in the kingdom of
Naples, where we also saw them ; at Civita Lavinia, and at
Palestrina, vestiges of them still stand.
Circumstances, over which I have no control, have pre-
vented me from visiting Palestrina, so that I can give you
no account of the Cyclopean walls there — ^nor yet favour
you with my opinion, in addition to the numbers already
given, on the subject of the famous mosaic of the Temple of
Fortune, which is preserved in a palace there, to perplex the
heads of antiquaries and cognoscenti. These are misfor-
tunes which probably you will not lament very deeply,
neither do I ; but Palestrina was the ancient PrsBneste, —
therefore I should have Hked to have seen it; though of
Praeneste there are now no remains. Even of the celebrated
* Alatri was one of the five Satumian cities. The names of the
others are Anagni, Atina^ Arce, and Arpino.
2 B 2
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372 BOM£.
temple of 'Hhat most fortunate of Fortunes," as Cameades
tlie Athenian, from its surpassing magnificence, called tlie
Fortune of P^SBneste, — ^there is not now one stone left upon
another, though the platform on which it stood can stiU be
distinctly traced.
At the Church of La Madonna della ViUa (so called from
the ruins of a Eoman imperial viUa on which it was built),
in the town of Falestrina, I am assured that considerable
remains of porticos, halls, baths, and corridors, can still be
traced. At a place called Volmontone, about five miles
from the town, there is a great hall painted in fresco, by
Ghispar Foussin, said to be one of his finest works. But at
Genezzano, about six miles from Falestrina, there is an
object much more visited, — a far-famed miraculous Madonna
who, in emulation of the renowned Virgin of Loretto, flew
there, all the way fi^m Albania, — ^not, however, bringing
her house along with her. But, in other respects, her
exploits, if I had time to narrate them, do by no means flail
short of hers of Loretto. Many are the pilgrims, among
whom may be reckoned crowned heads even of this genera-
tion, who have come from distant countries to visit the
shrine of this flying Virgin of QeneMano. The nuts and
roses, for which FraBneste was £Eunous in Eoman days, I am
.assured still abound there.
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FBASCATI. 373
LETTEE XCIY.
Feascati — Bai^ditti.
CoH^STEBNATiON fills this little peaceftil town. Yesterday
evening Lucien Bonaparte's viUa was entered by a gang of
banditti; — ^but I must tell you the story in order as it
happened.
About four in the afternoon Monswnore (as the old priest
of the fanuly is through courtesy cafled) set out to take his
accustomed walk; and, unluckily for himself, directed his
steps up the hill to the ruins of ancient Tusculum ; when,
suddenly, from the bushes which shade the cavity of the
amphitheatre, two armed robbers sprung out, dragged him
among the thickets, where four others were lying in ambush ;
and having stripped him of his watch, money, and clothes,
they tied his hands behind his back, and gave him notice,
that the first moment he attempted to speak, or make the
smallest noise, would be the last of his life. They kept
him prisoner there tiU after sunset, when they crept through
the wood to the house, and made a halt among the thick
laurels and shrubs close to it. In the meantime the dinner-
bell rang, the family sat down to table ; but as MoBsignore
was not to be found, a servant was sent into the pJeasure-
ground in search of him, who left the house-door unfastened.
The banditti softly made their approaches. Five of them
entered unseen and unheard, and the sixth staid to guard
the door. Monsignore seized this moment to betake himself
to his heels, and gained a remote out-house, where he buried
himself overhead among straw, and was found many hours
after more dead than alive.
In the meantime the five robbers, with their fire-arms
presented, cautiously advanced into the house, but they
were soon descried by the servants, whose shrieks they
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374 BOMS.
stilled in a moment by the menace of instant death if they
moved a step or uttered a sound. One maid-servant, how-
ever, escapea, and gave the alarm to the party in the
dining-room, who all fled in different directions to conceal
themselves, excepting the imfortunate secretary, who had
previously left the room to inquire into the cause of the
tumult, and was seized, on his way down stairs, by the
robbers, who mistook him for the Prince ; and, in spite of
his protestations, was carried off, together with the head-
butler, and a poor facchino* whom they encoimtered on the
grounds, to the mountain above Yelletn, a distance of seven
miles, without stopping.
This morning the captured ^occAww, like another Eegulus,
has been sent as ambassador, or charge d^affavres^ from the
banditti to the Prince, to propose terms, which are, to
deliver up their prisoners on the payment of a ransom of
4000 crowns ; or, on the non-payment of it, within four-and-
twenty hours, to shoot them. Lucien Bonaparte sent back
one half of their demand in money, and an order on his
banker for the rest. The robbers sent back the order, torn
through the middle, with a further demand of 4000 crowns,
in hard money, besides the 2000 they had already received
under pain of the immediate death of their prisoners. The
Prince received this insolent mandate in his palace at Eome,
where he took refuge this morning, and has been obliged to
obey it.
I wonder the government do not feel ashamed that such
outrages should be perpetrated within ten miles of Eome,
and that they should be obliged to admit delegates firom
banditti into the very seat of government — ^the capital
itself. A detachment of troops, and about two hundred
armed peasants, levied by Lucien Bonaparte, are ready for
the pursuit of the villains, the moment their captives are
released — ^but, till then, they dare not move ; for the eyrie
on which they have perched themselves commands a view of
the whole country in every direction, and they have sworn
to put the prisoners to death the moment they see the
approach of an armed man.
The Pope's soldiers, indeed, it would seem, are not much
• Porter, or out-door labourer.
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BAITDITTI. 375
to be depended upon themselves, for it is not long since the
guard from the Trinita de' Monti, and the Porta del Popolo,
at Eome, walked off one fine moonlight night, with their
arms and accoutrements, to the hills, and joined a party of
banditti.
It was the intention of the banditti who entered Lucien
Bonaparte's villa, to have seized both him and his daughter,
who had been betrothed that very day to Prince Ercolani, a
young Bolognese nobleman ; and haa they succeeded, their
demands would haye had no bounds.
Frascati, Nov. 19.
After a captivity of two days and a half, the prisoners
returned, and the troops ana armed peasantry mstantly
began the pursuit. The mountain on which they were
stationed, it is said, was previously completely surrounded
with guards, and every part of it has been searched, — an
immense reward has been offered for the apprehension even
of one of them, — but all in vain. No traces of them have
been discovered ; and Lucien Bonaparte, in addition k) the
ransom, has had to pay an immense sum to the peasantry he
hired, without the satisfaction of bringing the offenders to
justice. >
The unfortunate secretary has been confined to bed ever
since, partly from the effects of fright, fatigue, and cold, and
partly from a wound he received in his forehead in the
scuffle, when he was first taken prisoner. The captured
butler, andi facchino, whom I have seen, say that the robbers
did not treat them ill, and gave them plenty of food ; more,
indeed, than they could eat ; for it may be supposed that in
such a situation their appetite could not be very keen.
Neither could they enjoy much repose, surrounded with
cocked carbines. The captain of those banditti, who was a
remarkably little man, used to say to them, with great
politeness, " We shall really be sorry to murder you, gen-
tlemen ; but if the Prince does hot send the money we must
do it — our honour is engaged."
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376 SOME.
They knew, indeed, too well, he would keep liis word, for
it is not long since a joung woman was earned off between
Yelletri and Terracina, and the ransom they required not
being paid, she was murdered, and her body left on the
mountains.
Nor is this the only exploit of the sort in this neighbour-
hood. A few weeks ago, a Soman gentleman and his
daughters were taking a walk after mass on a Sunday, close
to tne town of Palestrina, when a party of banditti rushed
upon them, and carried them off to the mountains. The
poor old man, who was asthmatic, and unable to keep pace
with the rapidity of the flight, was brutally murdered before
the eyes of his unfortunate daughters, whose ransom en-
riched these monsters with the wealth of the man they had
slain.
About two months ago, a bride, on the day of her
nuptials, was carried off from a villa near Albano, while
sitting at table, surrounded by her husband and relations,
and after passing a night on the mountain, she was libe-
rated, on the payment of a heavy ransom, without insult or
injury.
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BAITDITTI. 877
LETTEE XCV.
BA3n)ITTI.
Eome, Febniary 4th, 1818.
Tor haye been misinformed about our robbery. It is
true, that about half an hour after sunset, and by the light
of an early moon, the carriage was stopped by a ferocious
looking party of brigands, who, armed to the teeth, and with
cocked pistols held at our heads, demanded our money or
our lives. But it is not true that thej^ personally mal-
treated us. Our ears were not cut off, neither were we left
without any clothes ; and I must beg to assure you, what-
ever you may have heard to the contrary, that we were not
murdered. Our assailants, who were four in nvimber, or
perhaps more (but four only appeared), were, indeed, by no
means sparing in their threats to put an end to us, and
flourished then* glittering knives, and held their disagreeable
pistols to our ears, with great perseverance; but this was
done in order to frighten us iuto giving them aU we had ;
for though I am convinced they would have had no more
scruple in kiQiug us than a butcher a sheep, or a sportsman
a partridge, if they could have got a single ducat by it ; yet,
as that was not the case, — and as the mere abstract act of
murdering a set of harmless people cannot afford any extra-
ordinary gratification, they granted my reiterated prayer,
(which W disdained to second,) to take our money and
spare our lives ; and we have good reason to bless ourselves
in escaping out of the hands of these banditti with no injury
except to our purses. Some gentlemen of our acquaintance
have not been so fortunate, having been very roughly
handled ; but that I attribute entirely to their having had
pistols, and not having had a lady to plead for them, and
cajole the ruffians with her silvery tongue. However, I
contrived to save a bag of gold, — the chief part of the money
we had ; but I was nearly murdered for diamonds which I
had not. Lady , whose carriage these banditti were
waylaying, and expected they had stopped, was known to
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378 ROME.
have jewels of immese value, having shown them impru-
dently on the journey. Her ladyship, however, unex-
pectedly stopped for the night at the last post on our
journey, where she had vainly tried to induce us to remain
also, in consequence of the alarm about banditti ; and thus,
having been mistaken for her, I became the victim, and was
very neariy shot for not dehvering up diamonds which I did
not possess. JSTay, I believe I should have been shot, but
for an alarm we opportunely raised that the troops we had
left behind at the last post were coming up.
"We hear fresh accounts every day of captives carried off
to the moimtains by the banditti, and the most daring out-
rages practised with impunity. A party of them came down
the other evening into the town of Terracina, took the post-
master out of his own house, and barbarously murdered him.
They had, it seems, vowed vengeance against him, on ac-
count of the steps he had taken to bring them to justice.
A few days ago, Barbone, the noted chief who holds his
reign in the woody fastnesses of Monte Algido,* in defiance
of the powers of papal justice, and who, during four years,
has been the terror of the whole country, after performing
various recent achievements at the head of his band, went
in open day alone into the town of Velletri, ordered, and
ate an excellent dinner at the inn, drank the best wines,
walked about with the utmost nonchalance, and talked about
the very robberies he had been committing. He was, how-
ever, recognized at last; but strange to say, he made his
escape, though slightly wounded in the leg by a shot.
The numerous bands of robbers which infest this country,
by no means live either upon their depredations on travel-
lers, or the ransom of their prisoners ; their grand resource
is the plunder of the farmers, particularly those who live
among the hills, many of whom are extremely rich, not only
in flocks and cattle, and such sort of rural property, but in
money. The whole range of Volscian hiUs, which extend
from the Alban Mount far into the kingdom of Naples, and
branch off into various chains, stretching up to the Appen-
nines, and through the heart of Calabria, are all infested
* Anciently Mount Algidum, a high and beautiful hill in the same
chain as the Alhan Mounts about twelve miles from Borne.
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IMPBISONED EOBBEBS. 379
with banditti. The Frencli would allow no robbers but
themselves, and kept the country tolerably clear of them ;
but since they went away, they have increased and mul-
tiplied.*
The consequence of all the horrible outrages that have
been practised during these nine months, has been, that the
Secretary of State has gone in person to Terracina to hold a
solemn conference with the brigand chiefs ; has entered into
a formal treaty with them, complied with their terms, and
offered friendship, protection, and reward, to hands still
dripping with innocent blood ! In the name of His Hoh-
ness, a general proclamation has been issued, inviting all the
banditti to surrender themselves, and engaging to pay them
a certain sum per day, to maintain them at the public
charge, and to furnish them with good accommodations in
the Castle of St. Angelo, and after six months' honourable
imprisonment to liberate them again !
This is a high premium for robbeiy and murder ! And
the more heinous the crimes they have committed, the
higher is to be their reward! The chiefs get double as
much as the rest. The way for a man to get a pension in
Itome, seems to be to turn an assassin.
A considerable body of these banditti have already de-
livered themselves up upon the faith of this engagement,
and are now living m clover at the Castle of St. Angelo.
People flock to see them as if they were wild beasts. We
went a few days ago, and I intend to repeat my visit, for
their appearance and manners are beyond description inte-
resting. We found them amusing themselves m a large
open court, apparently enjoying the novelty of their situa-
tion, and the notice they attracted. They are a very fine
* The English completely rid Sicily of robbers, simply by making all
proprietors, townships, &c. responsible for the robberies committed
within their estate, or jurisdiction. The system they established is
still persevered in; and, from being the most notorious country for
robbery in the worid, the crime is now unheard of. A man may now
[1818] travel alone, and unguarded, all over the Island of Sicily with a
bag of money in his hand, in perfect safety. Several friends of ours,
lately, though known to be remarkably well furnished with cash, made
the whole tour, at different times, without fire-arms, and with only one
attendant
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880 BOME.
looking set of men, — ^fine limbs, fine features, fine flashing
dark eyes and hair, and bright brown complexions. Their
air ana deportment is &ee and independent, expressing un-
daunted confidence and fearless resolution. But their coun-
tenance ! — ^I can give you no idea of the sinister expression
— ^the confirmed villany that many of them wore, especially
when they talked and laughed.
Their dresses were very rich and picturesque. One of
them had a magnificent embroidered scarf twisted round
him, which he laughed as he said he had taken from a lady.
Tie captain boasted of having killed eighteen men with
his own hand. His wife waa with him : she is only nineteen,
and really the most beautiful creature I think I ever beheld.
Several people have made presents to these wretches, and
more especially to this woman, a practice I must say I think
highly reprehensible ; and I am afraid the example was set
bv an English lady of high rank, the Duchess of Devon-
shire, who, as the patroness of learning, taste, and talent, I
should have thought would scarcely have deigned to become
the patroness of robbers.
Several of them had little images of the Virgin and the
saints suspended round their necks. One of them took out
his little Madonna, kissed it, and said he should never have
had any success without it, — that it had often saved his life,
and that whenever he wanted anything, he always prayed to
it. Another, being asked what they would do when they
were liberated, replied, with a face which it would be vain
to describe, — "Oh, we shall repent!" — (ci pentvremo^ I
wonder if the poor wretches who were executed on the
guillotine the other day deserved it better than those who,
in six months, are to be released with free pardons to prey
on society again.*
The whole system of the government is marked by the
same weakness and iucapacity. It would be endless to
enter iuto the minutiae of the mal-administration which per-
vades every department; but, for example, the petty im-
* After my retam from Italy, I learnt that the Roman Qovemment
did not keep their faith with the robbers, and that at the end of twelve
months they were still in the Castle St. Angelo. I leave the whole of
this transaction without any comment.
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TEXATIOTTS IMPOSTS. 381
posts, absurd restrictions, ruinous monopolies, and frivolous
impediments, with which commerce is fettered, act as a
complete interdict to it. So many difficulties and perplex-
ities are in the way of every branch of business, and so
many delays and forms, and offices and vexations, have to be
passed through in the importation and exportation of evenr
commodity — even of the native produce of the Pope's domi-
nions, in their passage from one part of it to another — ^that
a man had need of the patience of Job to transact business
at Eome.
To give you some faint notion of this : the wine of Monte-
fiascone, though remarkably delicious, is scarcely to be had
in Eome at all; and that of Orvietto, though grown at a
trifling distance, sells at nearly treble its price on the spot.
The Annona laws, with aU their absurdities, are still in
force ; and the popularity of the Pope and his ministers is
by no means increased by the heavy duties {gabelle) which
their wisdom has seen fit to lay on every sort of article-
Duties carried to excess equally impoverish the revenue
and the subject. The consumption is so materially dimi-
nished, that the smaU quantitv used produces far less under
an extravagant tax, than a large quantity would under a
moderate one ; not to mention the temptation to smuggling,
the expense of keeping up a check upon it, and the impos-
sibility of preventing it. Besides, the smaller, quantity of
your neighbour's produce you import, the less of yours they
can afford to take from you; for all commerce is barter.
There are many instances of governments acting on this dog
and the shadow kind of principle ; but none, I imagine, ever
carried it to moi« perfection than this. If a merchant from
any remote part chooses to send his wine, or oil, or cheese,'
or wool, or Hnt, or cloth, or what not, to this metropolis, he
must pay a heavy duty, not only on entering the city, but at
every town it passes through.; while there are various sapient
laws enacted against the exportation of the chief articles of
native produce.
The government here looks with a jealous eye on Austria,
who intermeddles strangdy in all affairs ; so much so, that
sundry sagacious politicians have predicted that the Pope
will soon no longer be armed wim independent temporal
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882 HOME.
power, and tliat the Papal will soon be merged in the
Austrian States. Of this, however, I should hope there is
little probability; for though an ecclesiastical government
is, and must be bad, an Austrian one is ten times worse.
It would really be to fall, as they say themselves, " dalla
padella nelle brace;** or, according to our homely equivalent
proverb, " out of the frying-pan into the fire."
Bad as the papal government is, indeed, it is by no means
so bad as that beneath which a great part of Italy is groan-
ing. Not so bad, for instance, as Naples, or Piedmont, or
Genoa, abandoned by English broken faith to Sardinia ; or
ill-fated Lombardy ; or expiring Venice ; or even the little
Duchy of Parma; or the stiQ smaller morsel of Lucca,
which have been carved out to satisfy the cravings of king-
domless royalty.
Tuscany, upon the whole, has by far the least to com-
plain of. But people in England who talk of erecting Italy
mto one great independent kingdom, know nothing of the
Italians. They hate each other with a hatred surpassing
that of common Christians, and the nearer the neighbour-
hood, the more inveterate the animosity.
Eome and Naples, Pisa and Florence, Florence and Siena,
Modena and Bologna, — in short, wherever there are two
cities within a reasonable distance of each other, be sure
the most cordial detestation reigns between them. A man
from a little town or village ten miles off, calls himself a
foreigner, and is considered so by the people he comes
amongst, just as much as if he came from the other end of
the world. A man's * patria,' in Italy, is the most limited
thing imaginable. It is confined to the village which gave
him birth.
It is true, that there was, and is, a strong spirit of inde-
pendence in the north, and, indeed, over the whole of Italy,
and it was the want of that principle of union, to which I
have alluded, that alone prevented them from asserting their
liberty, in that auspicious moment when the French yoke
was taken off, and no other was yet imposed. At present,
however, the friends of freedom, or the faction of the car-
honari, as they call themselves, increase every day ; and it
will be strange, if in Lombardy, at least, they do not soon
assume courage enough to break their chauis.
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AKTI-GAXHCAK SPIBIT. 383
They want no masters, neither French nor Austrian.
" Oe sono clue hestie,'* said a Milanese to me, with a bitter
gesture of detestation. Of the two, however, the present
• bestia ' 1/ should suppose to be by far the most generalljr
and deservedly detested. Such, certainly, was the senti-
ment of a' pocfr man, to whom I happened to observe, that
they had n«w got the Austrian eagle with two necks, instead
of the rrenkh with one. " Si, Signora,^^ he replied, heaving
a deep sigh, *^ e mangia doppioy
Indeed, the French ought to be beloved at Milan, if any-
where; for they did a great deal for it; instituted new
manufactures — erected new buildings — elevated it into the
seat of government, the capital of the kingdom — ^made the
wealth of the country flow into it, and in a great measure
sacrificed to it the rest of Italy.
And yet their government was so far from popular, that
the moment the terror of their arms was removed, we know
that the governor was literally torn in pieces. If, therefore,
they were so little liked at Milan, which they had patro-
nized, we may conclude they could not be much beloved at
Borne, which they had oppressed; or Venice, which they
had destroyed. Much good, however, and much evil, may
with truth be reported of the French ; but the good is gone,
and the evil remains. At the same time, it must be owned,
that if they were equally rapacious and despotic, they were
by no means so senseless, as the governments which have
succeeded them; and which seem to have vied with each
other in the generous design to whitewash their character
at the expense of their own.
Independent of this contrast, however, I own I cannot
see that anything Napoleon ever did for Italy was so very
surprising. He made himself master not only of the im-
mense revenues of churches and convents, but too often of
hospitals ; he imposed heavy burdens on the people ; and at
Home, at least, reduced many of the nobles to beggary, by
exorbitant contributions. Possessed of these immense re-
sources, he made military roads for the progress of his
ambition, and built triumphal arches for the gratification of
his vanity. Ambition he possessed — ^insatiate ambition —
but not tnat ambition which is
** The glorious fault of heroes and of gods;^
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384 BOHS.
his ambition was for power, not for glorj ; to suliogate, not
to bless the world. It was the vice of a demcti, not the
failing of an angel.
I am aware these observations will give great offence to
that numerous body of English, who pour forth iQtjualified
praise of Napoleon's reign in Italy; and who, -'lule they
profess themselves warm advocates of liberty, vefy consist-
ently eulogize the man who sought to establish universal
despotism through blood and carnage — ^to lay bas iron-bound
tyranny, not onlv over the persons, but the minds of men, —
over the press, the commerce, the literature of Europe.
The desolating effects of his reign, I fear, Europe will
long feel, in the exhausted resources, increased burdens,
and palsied commerce^ which weigh down her states ; and
the hopeless atheism, and dread demoralization, which poison
her people.
But I have fallen into a gloomy vein. So adieu I
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XXCUBBIOir TO OSTIA. 3JBd
LETTEE XCVI.
OSTIA.
Otjb last excursion from Eome was to Ostia. Nothing
can be more dreary than the ride to this once magnficent
sea-port. Even before you leave the gates of Eome, you find
yourself in a desert. Tou issue out through the Porta San
j?aola; pass the graves of your countrymen, and the proud
sepulchral pyramid of Caius Cestius, the deserted convent of
San Paola alle Tre Fontane — and proceed through a con-
tinued scene of dismal and heart-sinking desolation; no fields,
no dwellings, no trees, no landmarks, no signs of cultivation
— except a few scanty patches of com, thimy scattered over
the waste, and huts, like wigwams, to shelter the wretched
and half savage people that are doomed to live on this field
of death. For, by a strange paradox, man, in order to drag
on a miserable existence, is here driven into the very jaws of
certain destruction.
The Tiber, rolling turbidly along in his solitary course,
seems sullenly to behold the altered scenes that have withered
around him. Two thousand years ago, and his shores were
blooming in beauty, and crowded with the proud palaces of
the great and the gay. Here, it is not only the works of
man that have perished; Nature herself seems to have fallen
into decay : and the total absence of existing objects seems
to give more place for remembrances.
A few miles from Ostia, we entered upon a wilderness
indeed. A dreary swamp extended all around, intermingled
with thickets, through which roamed wild buffaloes, the only
inhabitants of the waste — sometimes seen breaking through
the brake, or treading down reeds higher than themselves —
sometimes swimming across the stagnant waters — in their
habits grown amphibious, Uke the scenes they tenanted.
TOL. n. 2 0
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aw Bou.
A considerable part of the way was upon the ancient pave-
ment of the Via Ostiensis, in some places in good preserva-
tion, in others broken up and destroyed. When this flailed
us, the road was execrable.
The modem fortifications of Ostia appeared before us long
before we reached them. At lenp;th we entered its gate,
guarded by no sentinel; on its bastions appeared no soldier;
no children ran out from its houses to gaze at the rare splen-
dour of a carriage ; no woman stood with rock and spmdle
at her cottage-aoor ; no passenger was seen in the grass-
grown street. It presented the strange spectacle of a town
without inhabitants. After some beating and hallooing, on
the part of the coachman and lacquey, at the shut-up door of
one of the houses, a woman, unclosing the shutter of an upper
window, presented her ghastly face ; and having first care-
fully reconnoitred us, slowly and reluctantly admitted us
into her wretched hovel.
" Where are aU the people of the town ?" we enquired.
" Dead !" was the brief reply.
The fever of the malaria annually carries off almost all
whom necessitv confines to this pestilential region. But this
was the month of April, the season of comparative health,
and we learnt, on more strict inquiry, that the population of
Ostia, at present, nominally consisted of twelve men, four
women, no children, and two priests. A body of convicts,
whose lives it is found convenient to shorten, are also kejpt
here; but they, with the few soldiers who constitute their
guard, were out at labour when we arrived ;* the men were
roaming about the marshes, shooting birds and buffaloes, and
the woman whom we saw was HteraUy the only person in this
deserted town. Yet it still has three churches, and is the
see of a bishop.
The ruins of Old Ostia are farther in the wilderness. The
sea is now two miles, or nearly, from the ancient port. The
cause of this, in a great measure, seems to be, that the extreme
* I understand their principal work is at the atagni, or salt manihes,
where, by natural evaporation, the salt is made (and very bad it is)
that is used in Rome. One of the priests told me the conTict^tation
k«re was an asylum for criminals, and that, guil^ of whatever crimes,
if they fled here they escaped trial and further poniahment, bat that
few x>r none sought it uncondemned.
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08Tii.. 387
flaiaieas of the land does not allow the Tiber to carry off the
immense quantity of earth and mud its turbid waters bring
down ; and the more that is dejposited, the more sluggishly it
flows; and thus the shore rises, the sea recedes, and the
marshes extend.
Ostia was originally founded by Ancus Martins,* and it
continued to be the only port of Borne until the time of
. Claudius, who built Porto, on the opposite bank of the river.
The marshy Insula Sacra, in the middle of the river, once
sacred to Apollo, and now inhabited by wild buffaloes, divides
the two ancient harbours which Cassiodorus calls * the eyes
of £ome.' After the building of Claudiuses new port on the
right bank of the river, the Mt stream, by which Maeas had
entered its "yellow" tide, and on which Ostia stands, was
quite deserted.
We had intended to have crossed to the Sacred Island, and
firom thence to the village of Fiumicino, on the other side,
where there are said to be still some noble remains of ancient
Porto, particularly of the mole ; but a storm suddenly came
on, with such tremendous fury, that it was with the utmost
difficulty we could keep our reet ; and our plan of crossing
the wide mouth of the Tiber, in a crazy boat, was wholly
frustrated. Bribery itself would not induce the boatmen
to venture.
The hats of the gentlemen were bound on their heads with
handkerchiefs, and arm-in-arm wo tried to conteind with the
fury of the blast, so far as to see the remains of Old Ostia.
They are on higher ground, scattered over a green plain,
** purpled with vernal flowers." Broken columns of granite,
slabs of marble, and fragments of inscriptions without num-
ber, were strewed along the grass. AU over it the turf was
heaved in many a verdfmt hillock, which seemed to cover the
ruins of magnificent temples and palaces.
We saw the fine Boman brick walls of an ancient buil-
ding, called by the vulgar a Temple, and by antiquaries a
Curia, — but why a senate-house at Ostia? We looked in
vain for any traces of the camp of -/Eneas,which must have
been near here ; and as for the Numicus — the
" Fontis stagna Kumici,"
♦ Liyy, 1. i, c. 83 ; " In ore Tiberia Oatia urbs condita," &c.
2 0 2
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388 BOicB.
it is nowhere to be seen, not even by antiquarian eyes, along
the whole extent of coast.
We saw, indeed, the diy bed of a stream, called the
Mume MortOy but it is close to, and has evidently been, the
bed of the Tiber. Another Mume Morto, the people told
us, is in the Isola Sacra.
Our examination of the remaLos of antiquiiy at Ostia, if
any more there be, was, however, abruptly terminated.
Obliged to yield to the increasing violence of the storm, we
were driven back to the wretched osteria we had left. In
its large black kitchen, hall, and common apartment, the
only habitable place in it, we found assembled some wild
ruman-lookiQg men, who had sought shelter, like ourselves,
from the gale ; two of them were playing at the game of
morra, theur countenance inflamed with eagerness, and ooca-
sionally with passion, as disputes arose about the number of
fingers they had shown.* But no bloody termination en-
sued. Three or four of their companions were lookiag on.
They soon resigned to us the dirty table of boards, and
the wooden benches, which, except a few crazy stools and
empty casks, formed the only furniture of the place; and
here we ate the cold dinner we had brought with us from.
Bome.
The storm also prevented us from visiting the site of
Laurentinum, the wmter villa of the Younger Pliny,t which
is about four miles from hence, on the coast. Some of the
walls, I tmderstand, are still standing.
"We delayed our departure as long as possible, in hopes
the storm would abate ; but in vain. We returned at last
without having visited the Insula Sacra, or the ruins of the
Port, on the opposite shore, where now stands the village of
iPiumicino. we consoled ourselves for our disappointment
by the resolution to make another excursion to tnem from
Bome by the other side of the Tiber ; but this, like many
such resolutions, has never been accomplished.
* For some account of this gamot see Letter LII.
t The same so nxinately described ia Wmj, 1. ii, Epist. 17.
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8UKBET OK THI PALATHfE.
LETTER XCVn.
SxJirsBT ON THE Palatiite — ^Thb Colosseum and the
EoBiTM BY Moonlight.
On one of those delicious evenings that close the bright
andbeantiM days of autumn in tms country, I lingered on
the Palatine until the sun sunk in a flood of light and glory,
such as no power of language or of painting can portray.
Vainly would imagination try to body forth the beauty of
an hour like this beneath the heavenly sky of Italy. The
Boft mist that floated over the landscape like a silver
▼efl, softened, without obscuring, every object, and gave a
shadowy beauty to the grev tombs that covered the wide
glain of the Campagna, wmle the hues that painted the
•abine Hills, the purple lights that, fading, blended into
distance, and the last crimson glow that was reflected from
tihe tops of the embattled Apennines, altogether formed a
picture that would have awakened admiration in the coldest
breast.
I stood on the terrace of the Palace of the CaBsars,— on
that ancient hill where the kings of Eome, the heroes of the
Bepublic, and the imperial tyrants of the world, had suc-
cessively triumphed and passed away.
The last honzontal beam of the god of day, darting under
the broad shade of the dark pine-tree, fell on the shattered
ruins at mj feet. Eighteen centuries had now almost com-
pleted then* course since first his radiance had illumined the
golden walls of this magnificent fabric ; a thousand years his
light had seen them laid in ruins, and still his setting ray
seemed to shine with redoubled splendour on the fallen
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300 Bon.
marbles of that proud fane within which he was once
adored.*
** Slow Binkfl, more lorel j ere his course be run.
O'er Latinm's desert plains — the setting sun;
Not, as in northern climes, obscurely bright^
Bat one unclouded blaze of living light :
O'er Home's proud seat, o'er Tiber's sacred isle.
The god of gladness sheds his paring smile;
O'er his own regions lingering lores to shine,
Though there lus altars are no more divine."
Transitoiy as beautiM, the deep glow of the western sk^r
quickly faded away ; — the shades of evening rapidly closed
around — ^no twilight here interposed its meditative hour,
but the moon arose with a brightness and beauty unknown
to our wintry climate, and the evening star hghted her
glowing lamp in the west ; as beneath their mingled rays,
which trembled through the dark shade of the tall cvpresses,
we slowly passed along the now forsaken Triumphal Wa^y
towards the Colosseum. Would that I could describe it to
you as it stood in its ruined loneliness amidst the deserted,
hills of ancient Eome, surrounded with the remains of over-
thrown temples, imperial palaces, triumphal arches, and
buried thermffi, — mighty even in decay !
The still, pale moonbeam fell on the lines of its projecting
columns, range above range, to the lofby attic, in ealvef^
light, leaving the black arches in mysterious darkness.
We passed under the great arch of entrance, crossed the
grass-grown area, ascended the long staircases, and tra-
versed the circling corridors. No sound met our ear but
the measured tread of our own footsteps, and the whispered
murmurs of our own voices. The deep solitude and sLLencey
the immensity and the ruin of the great fabric that sur-
rounded us, filled our minds with awe ; and as we caught
the view of the stars appearing and disappearing through
the opening arcades, marked the moonbeams iUumining the
wide range of these loffcy walls, and raised our eyes to the
beauty of the calm, dear firmament above our head, — ^we
* The broken Corinthian columns, and capitals of a temple on thia
hin, are supposed to be the ruins of the famous Temple of Apollo on
tlie Palatine.
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DESOLATED XUINB. 981
dovld not but remember that, msaj Ages past, these eternal
lights of heaven had shone on the sloping sides of this vast
amphitheatre when thejr were crowded with thousandB of
humaa- beings, impatient for the barbaroos sports of the
rising day, — where now only the wild weeds wared as 1^
night-breeze passed over them.*
Ib^ature holds her eternal course ; — ^the works of man
perish. Earth is strewed over with the mouldering vestiges
of his vanity and ambition ; and yet, compared with his own
little space, how durable are even those mute memorials 1
How wonderful is the discrepancy between the duration of
his works and his own existence ! The bmldings he raises,
the characters he impresses on the page, the colours he
spreads on the canvas, the forms he creates in the breathing
marble — ^live ; they enjoy a species of immortality on earth :
but he passes away like a shadow.
"We gazed around us on the gigantic wreck of this mighty
fabric ; and as we recalled what it had once been, the long
procession of years which had gone bv — ^the silent march of
time — the countless generations that had gone down to the
dust, rushed forcibly upon our mind. The proud masters
of the world were no more ; and we, pilgrims from a then
despised and barbarous land, were wandering amidst the
ruined moniunents of their pride and their power, to admire
their grandeur and to mourn over their decay 1
We quitted the Colosseum; we passed along the im-
tracked course of the Yia Sacra, amidst ruined temples
and tottering arches ; we beheld before us the once-proud
Capitol; we stood in the Boman Forum. How well did
this hour of stillness, when nature itself seemed hushed,
accord with this scene of ancient glorv ! How softly the
silver moonbeams fell on the Corinthian columns and
broken porticos of the temples, whose very gods are for-
gotten! How distinctly its clear light marked the dark
decaying marble of that proud sculpture, meant to immor-
talize the triumphs of heroes ; and how beautifully its pale
and moumM rav harmonized with the mouldering anehes
sunk in earth, like the deeds they commemorate ! I could
* It was customary for the common people thus to secure places
over-night to see the games.
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SOICB.
almost hare fancied that I saw Time seated amidst l^e
rains he had made, mocking at their yanity, as he wovked
at their destruction. Our thoughts turned upon those
over whom he has no power, — ^for whom there is no monu-
ment,— ^but whose memory is immortal on earth ; and we
felt, not without emotion, that we stood on the yenerable
soil where CamiUus, and Scipio, and Brutus, and Cicero
had trod:
In future years, how often in my nafciye land shall I
recal to my mind
" that in my youth
When I was wandering, — upon such a night
I stood within the Colosseum's walls,
'Midst the chief relics of almighty Bome.
The trees which grew along the broken arches
Wared dark in the blue midnight, and the star&
Shone, through the rents of ruin ; from afar
The watch-dog bayed beyond the Tiber; and
More near from out the Caesar's palace came
The owl's long cry ; and interruptedly
Of distant sentinels the fitful song
Begun and died upon the gentle wind."
And thou didst shine, thou rolling moon^ upon
All this, and cast a wide and tender light
Which soften'd down the hoar austerity
Of rugged desoUtion, and fiU'd up.
As 't were, anew, the gaps of centuries ;
Leaving that beautiful which still was so.
And making that which was not, till the place
Became religious, and the heart ran o'er
With silent worship of the great of old.
The dead but sceptred sovereigns, who still rule —
Our spirits from their urns !"
LoBD Btbon.
"Whilst our hearts were touched with feelings such as
these, a bell from a distant convent on the Ceelian Hill,
which tolled to call the friars to their midnight devotions,
broke upon the silence of night. At the sound, a figure
glided from the shade of the Temple of Concord, passed
before us like a shadow, and disappeared among the trees.
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THE FABSWXLL. 396
We were somewhat startled at this apparition, which, ac-
cording to all the rules of romance, should have served
88 the prelude to some mysterious adventure ; but it only
served to warn us to go home to bed ; and, as it appeared
to us no more, nor even condescended to explain why it had
appeared at all, you may conceive it to have been a ghost
or a man, a monk or an assassin, as best suits your mncy.
Parewell.
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INDEX.
Absolution granted by the Pope,
1.421
Academy of Fine Arts, at Siena,
i. 33, 35
French, establidied in
Rome, ii. 163
of St. Luke, ii. 89, 90
- of Music, ii. 263
Acanthus, wild luxuriance of the,
contrasted with its sculptured
form, i. 142; growth and bloom
of, i. 143; decorative use of, in
architecture, i. 222
Accademia of sacred music, ii. 189
Accius NseTius, i. 3
Acqua Pendente, romantic fiitu»-
t tion of, i. 46
Actors first sent to Rome, from
Etruria, i. 274; present infe-
riority of, ii. 269
:.£diles plebeian, i. 835, n.
.^sop, a celebrated actor of anti-
quity, i. 277
' Aggeres, or mounds of defence, i.
159
Agrippa, battles of, 1. 304
iAlaric, destruction of Rome by,
i. 124
Alba Longa, the Trojan town, the
mother of Rome, i. 89, ii. 361;
site of, i. 150
Alban Lake, once the crater of
a Tolcano, ii. 366; remarkable
outlet to, ii. 355
— Mount, first view of, i, 89;
afleent of, ii. 362, 364
Albano^ situation of, 1. 89; anti-
quities qX, ii. 355; grottos of,
ii. 354, 357, 359
Alexander Severus, aqueduct ^,
i. 348
Alfieri, tragedies of, ii. 265
Algidum, city of, ii. 342, 378
Algido, Monte, ii. 378
Almo, chissic stream of, i. 384, 430
Alter of Census, i. 259
Alter of the Elician Jove, erected
by Numa, i. 164, 165
of Jupiter Viminalis, 1. 177
to MiE^ortune, i. 175
of Murcia, i. 259.
Pagan, at Siena, i. 32
of Serapis, i. 268
to the god of Secrecy, i. 259
to the god Terminus, i. 154
of Vulcan, i. 199
Amazons, stetues of, it 76; battle
of the, ii. 78
Amici (Amisi), improvements in*,
the microscope by, ii. 385.
Amphitheatre of Pompeii, i. 289
Amphitheatres first built in Rome,
i. 286 ; wild beasts, for the, fed .
with criminals, 1. 291
of wood, built by
Nero, i. 286
Flavian.— See Co*
loMeum.
Amphitheatmm CaBtrenae, i. 122,
199, 222
Ancient bridges of Rome, i 338
Temple of Piety, erected to
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IKBIX.
the Roman daughter, who Bayed
her father when condemned to
perish with hunger, i. 249;
ehurch on the site of the, ibid.
- Temple of Bellona, site of.
i 251 ; priests of, ibid.
Temple of Janus, i. 260
■■ Borne, remains of, i. 75;
mins of, i. 450
Anens Martiiis, i. 114
Animals, hall of, i. 96
Anio, a river which runs into the
Tiber, i. 335; cascades of the, il
338; petrifying quality of the
water, ii. 387; rock-deposits of,
r ibid.
Annibale Oaracci, frescoes of. See
Fre$eo€9,
i^— paintings of. See
Paintings,
Annunciation, festa of the, ii. 177
Antiques, manufactory of, ii. 812
Antiquity, remaius of, on the Via
' Appia, i 884 ; on the Via La-
tina» i. 889; yestiges of, found
in the walls of Rome, i. 119
Antiquarianism, trite definition of,
i.l49
Antiquities, natural, of Rome, ii.
. 283
-Antium, the birth-place of Nero, i.
r 106 ; ancient town of, ii. 369
Antoninus Pius, Forum of, i. 211 ;
temple of, i. 213
' A&tinotis, colossal statue of, ii. 122;
far-famed rilieyo of, ii. 169, 170
Anxur, yiew from the clifis of, ii.
366 .
Apartment in Caesar's palace, i.
136
' Apellicon, library of, i. 284
Apennines, the, 1. 21, 89
Apollo, statue of, i. 6; temple
of, on the Palatine, i. 141 ;
library and museum of, i. 142 ;
colossal statue of, i. 269, ii 86
Apollo Belyidere, i. 104, 105
Apotheosis of Homer, ii. 100
Appius, tribunal of, i. 199
Aqua Acetosa, or mineral sprii^,
876
Appia, Aqua Martia, and
Aqua Tepula, waters with which
Rome was supplied, i. 347
Crabra, celebrated by Cicero^
ii. 360.
Aqueducts first constructed in
Rome, L 347; care of, under
Augustus, i. 348; description of
the, ii 338; destruction of, i.
349
Aqueduct of Alexander Seyema; i.
348
' of Augustus, i 347
of Claudius, arch of, L
123, 346, ii 338; remains of
the, i 348
- Martian, ruins of, i. 347;
immense reseryoir of, i. 350
of Nero, i 346
Ara Coeli, church and conyent of,
i 76, ii. 15; situation of, L
154
Maxima, the great altar con-
secrated to Hercules, i. 166, 235
Arabesques, by Raphael, in the
Vatican, i 316; in the baths of
Titus, i 316
Arbor Sancta, or sacred tree, i. 172
Arch of Claudius Drusus Nero,
i 340, 344
of Constantino, i 81, 342
of Dolabella and Silanus, L
344
of the Fabii, i 183
of Fabius the Censor, i. 199
of Gallienus, i. 344
— ^ of Germanicus, i 844, 346
of Gordian, i. 340
of Janus, i 843
of Marcus Aurelius, L 345 ;
ii 86
of Musagetcs, i. 98
of Nero, L 157 «.
of San Lorenzo, i 344
of Scipio Africanus, i. 157
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HTDEX.
897
Arch of Septimins Seyerns, i. 79 ;
ezeaTation of the, by the French,
ibid ; rains of, i. 190, 841
of Tiberius, i. 197
ofTitus, 181,341
of Trajan, i. 209 n.
Archias the poet, villa of, ii. S36
Archdukes, palace and tomb of the,
at Florence, i. 9
Aricia or La Riccia, where Horace
slept on his way to Brundnsium,
U. 368; valley of, ibid.
Amo, i. 21
Arnold of Brescia, the champion of
civil and religious liberty, i. 160
Artists of modern Rome, ii. 298
Asbestos, cloth of, impervious to
fire, ii. 34
Ascanius, grottos of, ii. 363 ; tomb
of, ii. 360
Asylum for outlaws, consecrated
by Romulus, i. 167 ; ibid. n.
Athenaeum, or public library, i.
159
Augustus, house of, i. 185, 145;
temple of Apollo, built by, i.
141; hippodrome of, i. 146;
crimes of, i. 254, n.; mausoleum
of, i. 369; the sarcophagus of,
i. 370, birth-place of, ii. 369, n.
Augustinian convent, monks and
library of the, ii. 3
Aurelius, column of, i. 88, 213
Aventine Hill, i. 163 ; origin of ii*
name, ibid.; extent of, i. 164;
church on the summit of, 1. 165;
view from the, i. 166; temples
on the, i. 166, 167
Aventinns, King of Alba, i. 163
Baccano, near it is obtained the
first view of Rome, i. 61
Bacchus, Indian, statue of, i. 101
Balthazar Penizzi, remarkable
painting by, "The Sibyl pro-
phesying the birth of our
Saviour,'* i. 36
Bambino, or infant Jesns, remark-
able image of, ii. 16, 17
Banditti, ii. 373, 378 ; imprison-
ment of, ii. 379 ; negotiation of
the Papal Gk>vemment with,
ibid ; noted haunts of, i. 89
Baptistery of St. John Lateran, i.
400
Barberini palace, ii, 106; piazza^
i. 257
Barbone, a noted chief of banditti,
ii. 878
Basalt, Egyptian, lions of, men-
tioned by Madame de Stifcel, t
155
Basaltic columns, i. 43, 46, 51
Basilicas, or ancient Ronun
churches, i. 393, 429
Basilica Emilia, i. 198
Julia, i. 196
of Livia, i. 141
of Panlus iEmilitts, re-
mains of, i. 80, 198
Porcia, remains of, most
ancient in Rome, i. 191
of St John Latenin, i.
393, 397
. of St. Peter, i. 70, 7«»
423, 426
of Santa Maria Maggiore,
i. 428 ; Christmas ceremony in,
ii. 211
of St. Paul, i. 430
of Santa Croce, i. 488
of San Lorenzo, i. 436
• of San Sebastiano, i, 88S>
435
Ulpia» i. 208
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808
IITDXX.
Baths of Agrippft. i. 304
of CaracaUa, i. 305 ; plan of,
i. 806 ; halls of, i. 308 ; statues
found in the, and present pre-
Yervation of, i. 810
of ConBtantine, 1. 177, 304;
ii. 102
of Decins, i. 805
— of Diocletian, i. 177; con-
verted into a Christian church,
L882
of the Empress Helena, i.
804; ruins of the, ii. 161
for women, in Hadrian's villa,
U. 325
of Nero, i. 144; U. 123
of St. Philip, calcareou
springs at, i. 43
-*— of Tiberius, i. 141
of Titus, i. 311 ; vestiges of,
L82
ancient, of the Romans, i.
801 ; uses, and remains of, i. 302,
304; various kinds of, i. 309
— antique, in the court of the
Vatican, i. 95
Beatrice Genci, portrait of, by
Guido, ii. 103; history of, ii. 104
Befano, the, ii. 235
Belisarius, prophetic warning of,
to Totila, i. 125; troops of,
lodged in the palace of the
Caesars, i. 139; stone, bearing
the inscription of the death o^
i. 121
Bellona, temple of, i. 251, 254;
priests of, i. 251, 252
Belvedere, extensive view from, i.
165
museum, i. 98
Benediction of the Pope at the
close of the Holy Week, ii. 205;
extent of the, ii. 206
Bernini, colonnades by, in St.
Peter's, i. 74 ; statues by, i. 23;
remarkable group by, i. 459
Besendina, i. 48
Bibliotheca Ulpia, i. 828
Boas, wild, among the Sabine
Hills, ii. 296
Bocca della Verity, a singular
stone in the church of Santa
Maria in C!osmedin, i. 284
Bologna, John of, statue of Mer-
cury by, i. 7
cemetery of, ii. 290.
Bolsena once destroyed by lire
from heaven, i. 48 ; lake of, ib.;
antiquity of, i. 49; temple of,
ibid.; forest of, i. 60, 51
Bona Dea, temple of, i. 167; femide
freemasonry of, ibid.
Bonaparte, his spoliations in Italy,
ii. 383
Lucien, ii. 348, 873
Borghese palace, ii. 124
chapel, i. 429
Borgo San Spirito, or great hos-
pital of Rome, ii. 28
Botanical riches of Rome, ii. 284
Brickwork, excellent, of the reigns
of Augustus, Kero, and Titus,
i. 242
Bridge ^lius, i. 334
of Caligula, i. 187
of Cestius, i. 883
first, built of wood, i. 881
of stone, i. 382
of Fabricius, mentioned by
Horace, i. 882, 388 ; ii. 17
Janiculensis, L 833
Milvian, the only bridge
over the Tiber out of Rome,
i. 334
Palatine, i. 832
of San Angelo, i. 384, 402
of Santa Trinit4, view of
Florence from the, i. 16
triumphal, still visible on
the Tiber, i. 333
Bridges, ancient and modem, i.
331, 339
Britons, sale of, in Rome as slaves,
i. 195; the proximate cause of
the introduction of Christianity
into this country, i. 196
Digitized by
Google
I9BSX.
Boll-fight in the ColoflBeum, L 293
Buon Convento, village of, i 39
Boiattini, ii. 267
Burials in Borne, 1. 356 ; ii 288
Busts, antique, ii 69
— _ of the Emperors, ii. 73
■ of the Poets, in the Pan-
theon, i. 228
CABDiKr, Profane, in the Vatican,
ii. 37
Sacred, in the Vatican, ii. 35
Oaciis, cave of, i. 165, 169
CsBsar, palace of,i. 139; apartment
in, i. 136
Cnnaenla, or eating rooms, 1 144
Gains Cestius, pyramids of, i. 367,
369
■ BailiiUy the first Boman who
gained a naval victory, i. 250
- and Lucius, colossal statues
of, L 155
Caligula, houses of, i. 136 ; bridge
built by, ibid. n.
r OaUimaehus, L 142
Cameos, ii. 812
Camere of Raphael, ii. 46
Camnccini, the Artist, ii. 134 ; his
fine cabinet of paintings, ibid.
Camp of Hannibal, ii. 860, 364
Praetorian, of Domitian, ruins
ofthe, 11.360
for foreign soldiers, i. 173
Campagna, view over the, i. 61-64;
rains on the, i. 378
Campidpglio, pUice of execution
for male&ctors, i. 75
Campo Santo, or cemetery of
I^iq>les, ii. 290.
Vaccine, i. 76
Campus Martins, i. 70, 88, 119
Sceleratus, in which the
Vestal virgins were buried alive,
. i. 124, 270
■ Ustrinns, i. 867
Caaova, Perseus and Pugllisto of,
i. 107 ; the first Italian sculptor
of the age, ii 298 ; works of, ii.
299, 301
Capitol, modem, i 75, )i9; i»azza
of the, once the place of ezecntion
for malefactors, ibid.; tower of,
i. 85; view of modem and
ancient Rome from, ibid.; re-
mains of, i 153
Capitoline Hill, colossal statues on
the, i. 155; temples and aUars
on, i 156, 159
Capuchins, diturch of the, ii 9;
convent of, ii. 362, 367; museum
of bones of monks, ii 11
Car, used in chariot-races, model
of. in the Vatican, i 264
Caracalla, baths of, i. 305; civens
of, i 265, 354
Caracci, paintings of, in the palace
of Lucien Bonaparte, ii. 130
Caravaggio, paintings of. See
Paintings*
Carceres, divisions for cars in the
circus, ii. 266
Cardinal, at confession, i 41.8
Oonsalvo, i. 455
Fesch, his galleiy of
paintings, ii 135
Carlo Maratti, tomb of, i. 326
Carnival, festivities of, ii. 253, 259
Carthusians, church and convent
of, i 827
Cartoons of Raphael, i 101 ; ii 47
Caryatides, i 99
Casa Romuli, or thatched cottage
of Romulus, i 193
Cascade, artificial, made by Sixtus
v., ii. 336
Cascades of Tivoli, ii. 329
Casino, Roman, description of, ii.
160
in the Borghese gardens,
U. 160
of Raphael, ii 166
Castel. Qandolfo, the summer resi-
dence of the Pope, ii. 854
Digitized by
Google
400
nrssx.
GuteUo Arehione, gothio fortreai
of, IL 819
Gtstle of Si Angelo, i. 408 ; pre-
Bont employment of, L 4C4 n.;
firewcd'ks from, at Easter^ ii. 209 ;
impriflonmeiit of baniUtti in,
it 879
Castor and Pollux, colossal statues
of L 155; appearance of, i 189,
190; temple of, i. 189; ancient
remains of the, ii. 878
Gaatra Peregrina, or camp for
foreign soldiers, i. 178
Catacombs, extent and primary use
of, i 880, 881; comparison be-
tween those of Naples and Rome,
ii.882
Cataracts of Tivoli, ii. 880
Cathedral of Florence, baptistery
and remarkable gates of, i. 12, 16
ofMUan, i. 451
■■ Portuguese, ceremonies
in the, on Christmas-eve, ii. 211
of Siena, 1.30
-of St. Peter's i. 69
Cathedral of Yiterbo, murder at
the altar of, by De Montfort, i. 56
Cathedrals, comparative length of,
thronghont the world, i. 416
Cato, birth-place of, ii. 842
Catullus, villa of, iL 335
CavsBdium, or corridor of Hadrian's
villa, ii. 828
Cave of Cacus, L 165, 169
of Sirens, ii. 329
Caverns, immense natural, ii. 868
Caves, artificial, ii. 356
Cecilia Metella, tower of, i,
tomb of, i. 365, 366
Cella Solearis, i. 308
Cemeteiy of Bologna, ii. 290 ^
of Florence, Ii. 290
of Naples, ii. 290
Cemeteries of Italy, ii. 290
Cento Camerelle, of Hadrian's villa,
u. 826
Celle, ruins on the Campagna,
i878
86;
Centaurs and LapiUue, combat of,
i. 99
Centum Qradus, the western ascent
of the capitol, i 162
CesUus, bridge of, L 833
Chapel of the early Christians,
i 320
of La Madonna del Tufou
U. 862
subterranean, of St. Peter'^
L408
Chariot-races, description of, L 263;
exhibition of, by Nero, i. 264
Charlemagne, marble statue o( L
71
Chartreuse, retreat of Pius VI., in
exile, i. 25
Christ, fourteen representations of,
bearing the cross, according to
Bomish tradition, i. liZ,n,; the
true cross of, i. 488 ; sepulchre
of, ii. 189; ceremony of the en-
tombment of, ii. 115, 195; resur-
rection of, iL 201; miraculous
discovery of the real blood o^ ii.
232; alleged marriage of, with
St Catherine, i. 88
■ ■ painting of the flagellation
of, by Sebastian del Piombo, ii.
26
statue by Michael Angelo,
i. 456
Christian church, i. 198
Christians, put to death in the Cir-
cus of Nero, i 258; ten thou-
sand put to death in one day,
i. 432
Christianity established in Bome,
i. 129 ; triumph of, i. 334 ; free-
dom of, from human samfice, a
proof of its divine origin, L 258
Christina, Queen of Sweden, resi-
dence o( ii. 161; credulity of,
ibid.
Christmas ceremonies in the
Church of Borne, ii. 211
Church of Ara Coeli, i. 154; ii. 15,
flight of 124 steps ascended on
Digitized by
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I2n)EX.
401
the knees by Julius Caesar, ii. 16;
origin of the name of, ii. 17
Church of the Capuchins, ii. 10;
painting of the Archangel
Alichael trampling Satan, by
Guide, ibid.; ecstacy of St.
Francis, by Domenichino, ibid.
— of Franciscan friars, at
Viterbo, i. 55, 66
of Grotta Ferrata, ii. 362
■ of the Jesuits, i. 464
of La Maddalena, i. 464
of St. Agnes, i. 440, 441
of S. Alessio, 1. 168
of St. Andrea deUa Valle,
31 ii.
■■ San Andrea al Noviziato
de' PP. Gesuiti, i. 454
- Santa Anna, ii. 263
sepulchre of Christ in the, ii.
189
St. Adrian, i. 198, 204
St. Augustin, ii. 3
8. Antonio de* Portoghesi,
ii. 189
— — St. Bartholomew, ii. 18
San Bernardo, i. 823
of Sta. Bibiana, i. 246
- of San Carlo al Catinari, ii.
14
1.460
- Santa Cecilia in Trastevere,
of St. Clement, the most
ancient existing church in the
world, i. 488
• Sts. Cosmo and Damiano,
i. 238
332
of Santa Croce, i. 433
S. Georgio, at Tivoli, ii.
- of St. John Lateran, i. 393,
396; remarkable relics in, i.
398; baptistery of, i. 400
of San Lorenzo fuori le
murll, erected by Constantine, i.
436
San Luigi do' Francesi, ii.
Church of La Madonna de' Monti.
1. 174
della Villa, in
Palestnna, ii. 372
of Santa Maria degli An-
geli, i. 825
ii. 13
solazione, i 196
dell* Anima,
della Con-
in Cosme-
din, the supposed school of St.
Augustin, i. 233, 234
Liberatrice,
di Loretto,
i. 80
1.460
nerva, i. 465
173
-Maggi^re, i.
428; remarkable relics in, i.
429, 434; religious ceremonies
in, on Christmas-day, ii. 211
Bopra Mi-
- Navicella, i.
- della Pace,
- del Priorata,
-in Trastevere
-of theTrinia
- Vallicella, H.
ii. 2
i. 166, 167
ii. 13, 28
de' Monti, i. 88
12 ; built by St. Filippo Nerij
ibid.; portrait of, by Guido,
ibid.
of SS. Martin and Sylvester,
i.819
of Santa Martina, i. 197
of Santa Martina and St.
Luca, i. 183, 197
of San Nicola in Carcere.
i.249
-- in Pane
Pema, i. 176
of Sant' Onofrio, where the
remains of Tasso repose, ii. 24
2 D
Digitized by
Google
402
XNDSX.
Ohnrch of St. Pitul faori le mxak i.
43
■ alio ire fontaae^
the place of the Apostle's mar-
tyidom, i. 482
of St. Peter, i. 70, 78;
colonnades of, i. 74 ; erection of,
i. 407; subterranean chapel in,
L 408; confessionals of, 1. 415;
services in, during the Holj
Week, ii. 186, 189; illumination
of, ii. 208
— — St. Pietro^ on the
Bsquiline, i. 456
St. Pietro in Montorio,
Tiew of ancient uid modem
Borne from, ii. 25
> ■ Santa Sabina, i 168
of St. Sebastian, i. 388, 435
of S. SUvestro, i. 819
of San Ste&no, I 442;
Botondo, i. 171
of St. Theodore, i. 86; here
the twins were exposed and
suckled by the wolf, ibid.; re-
building of, 193 n.
St. Urban VIII., I 886
Cicero, connection of, with the
Boman forum, i. 78; eloquence
and fame of, i. 79; murder of,
i. 78; house of, i. 129; Bostrum
of, ii. 224; Tusculum villa of, ii.
343 ; school of, ii. 344 n.
Cimabue, the father of painting,
i. 35
Oimlnus, the ancient, i. 57
Circle, ancient symbolical meaning
of, ii. 321
Circus, sports of, i. 260 ; the only
remaining one, i. 264, 265; right
of place in, i. 267
. Agonalis, games of, i. 256
Flaminius, i. 256
of Caracalla, i. 265, 354
of Flora, games of, exhi-
bited every spring festival, still
retained, i. 267
——- of Hadrian, .258
Cirous Maximus, i. 256, 259;
260; plan of the, i. 258
of Nero, i. 267 ; ChristiaiLs
put to death in, i. 258
of Sallnst, i. 257 ; site and
form of, i. 269
Civita OastelUma, L 373
Lavinia, ii. 368
Classic mountains, i. 89, 90
Claude Lorraine, house of, mi^^-
ficent view from, ii. 11. See
Paintings,
Claudius, temple of, in Britain,
near the Thames, i. 213; banish-
ment of the Jews from Borne,
by, i. 285; aqueduct of, ii. 338
Drusus Nero, arch of,
i. 340 ; fame of, ibid.
Cleopatra, beautiful statue of, i. 97
Clivus Asyli, ascent from the
Forum to the altar of Bomulus,
i. 162
Publicii, ascent of Mount
Aventine, i. 165
Cloaca Maxima, most ancient of
the Boman remains, i. 217; pre-
sent utility of, after a lapse of
3000 years, ibid.
Clodius, villa of, ii. 359 ; murder
of, ibid. n.
Cocles, Horatius, defence of the
Pons Sublicius by, i. 87 ; statue
of, i. 202
Coelian mount, i. 82; oonyent of, i.
170, 171; temples and monu-
ments on the, i. 172
Coins, Boman, i. 138
Cola di Bienzi, abode of, i. 447; cha-
racter of, ibid.; titles of, i. 446;
coronation of, i. 448; rise and
fall of, ibid. ; death of, i. 449, 450
Collis Hortulorum, (m the Pincian
Hill, i. 66
Colonna palace, gallery of, ii. 100.
105; statuary and painting of
the, ii. 101, 103
Colonnades of St. Peter^s, i. 74;
the work of Bernini, ibid.
Digitized by
Google
INDEX.
403
OoloBBal Btataes, i. 155, 177; ii. 63
Coloeseum, ruins of the, i. 81 ; sitn-
ation of, i. 82; conBecration of,
by Benedict XIY., ibid. ; dese-
cration of, by the French, i. 83 ;
prophecy of Bede respecting the,
i. 286 ; opening of, by Titus, i.
287 ; architecture and plan of, i.
288, 289; £all of, i. 292, 295;
gigantic ruins of, i. 299 ; romantic
Tiew of, by moonlight, ii. 390
Columbaria, or sepulchral cham-
bers, i. 365
Column of Aurelius, i. 88, 213
Phocas, i. 186
Rostral, ii. 85
of Trajan, i. 88, 211
Colnmna Bellica, i. 251 ; the ab-
surdly reputed, ii. 103
Columns, aatique, i. 431
— — Corinthian, of Grecian
marble, i. 79, 185; dispute re-
specting, i. 187
Combats of wild beasts, i. 290;
Christians exposed to the rage
of, i. 291
Comedy, Roman, i. 275
Comitium, the, i. 187, 203
Commerce of Italy, ii. 93
Commodus fights as a gladiator,
i. 291 ; body of, hurled from the
Pons Sublicius, i. 331
Commons, want of, ii. 247
Concord, temple of, i. 185, 199
Confessionals in St. Peter's, i. 415,
Confefasors, i. 416, 417; ii. 202
Constantia, one of the first Chris-
tian princesses in the world, i.
100
Constantino the Great, arch of, i,
876; marble statue of, i. 71;
hipi>odrome of, i. 378, 441;
defeat of Hazentius by, i. 384;
church erected over the tomb of
St. Paul, by, i. 480; mother of,
1. 379 n.
Census, altar of, on the Metae, i. 259
Oonyents, existing number of, in
Rome, ii. 213 ; general pnctke
of retiring to, ii. 223
Convents of Viterbo, twenty-eight
in number, i. 63
Convent of Carthusians, i. 25
of the Chartreuse, i. 26 -
of Greek Basiliean monks
at Grotta Ferrata, ii. 350, 361
of Passionist friars, ii. 864
of Penitents, ii. 366
of St. Augustin, ii. 8
of Santa Croce, i. 436
of St. Gregory, ii. 6; le-
markable frescos in, ii. 6
of St. John, i. 82 ; ii. 228
- of Santa Maria dell' Im-
prunata, 1. 25; famous image of
the Virgin in the, 1. 26
of St. Paul, i. 82 ; ii. 223
of Santa Rosa, i. 54
of S. Sylvestro, ii. 213;
ceremony of tiding the veil in,
ii. 215, 218
of Santa Theresa, ii. 221
Sepolto Vivo, in which
contumacious nuns «re impri-
soned, ii. 221
of Tor' de' Specchl, ii. 222
of the Vallombrosa, i. 21
Conversazioni, ii. 259
Cora, ancient city of, ii. 369 ; anti-
quities of, ii. 370
Corsini chapel, in the church of
St. John Lateran, i. 396; palaee,
ii 187
palace of, ii. 189
Cono, &e principal street of the
city of Rome, i. 66; ii. 256
Cosmo de' Medicis, tomb of, at
Florence, i. 11; character and
fame of, ibid; i. 12
Criminals, public execution of, ii.
268
Critics, court of, instituted by Au-
gustus, i. 142
Cross, illuminated, in St. Peter's,
ii 188; illustrious votaries of
the, ibid.
2 D 2
Digitized by
Google
4M
HTDEX.
Curia or Soman Benate-houec^ i. 80
Calabra, where the priefits
made their astronomical obsenra-
tions to fix the Ides and Nones,
i. 158
Hostilia, the senate-house of
TuUus Ho8tiliu8,i. 171--174
Julia,!. 188
of08tia,ii. 887
Curiatii, tomb of the, ii. 360
Curius Dentatus, humble abode of,
ii. 842
Custom-house, on the Soman fron-
tier, i. 43, 44
at Rome, i. ^&
Cyclopean walls, ii. 869, 371
Cjrbele, first temple of, i. 143;
jmnual feast of, ii. 259
D.
Dancing ?aun, statue of the, i. 4
Dante, portrait of, i. 16; inspired
muse of, i. 18
Decius, baths of, i. 304
Deity, statue of the, i. 14
Delubrum, a temple dedicated to
many gods, i. 224
Depraved state of morals in Borne,
ii..245
Diana, temple of, i. 166, 1G9 ;
prayer of Gracchus in the, i. 170;
statue of, ii. 63; bronze sculp-
ture of, as the Pagan Trinity, ii.
72; baths of, ii. 357; tower of,
ii. 367
Diocletian, parentage of, i. 320, n;
baths of, i. 323 ; massacre of his
subjects by, 1. 328
Discobolus, statue of the, i. 101
— in the Palazzo Massimi,
ii. 113
Disputed columns, the, i. 187, 189
Dogana, on the Soman frontier,
i. 43,44; of Some, i. 66
Domenichino, frescos of, ii. 6, 13,.
24. Seei^rftrcoes; paintings «f,
ii. 88, 95, 125, 145, 153, 154.
Sec Paintings ; remnants of the
frescos of, ii. 351, 352
Domitian, tomb of the family of,
i. 120; celebrated ancestor of,
i. 190 n; only statue of, ii 166 :
villa of, ii. 359 ; nymphamn of,
ii. 357; camp of, ii. 360
Doria, palace of, u. 94 ; gallery of,
ii. 95,99
Dramas, first performed in Greece,
and in Some, i. 275 ; invention
of, traced to Egypt, ibid; present
state of in Italy, ii. 269 ; sacred,
ii. 268
Duilius, the first Soman who ob-
tained a naval triumph, i. 250
Dying Ghidiator, statue of, ii. 79,
82; Winkelman's opinion of,
ibid, n.
Early Christians, martyrdom of
the, i. 291, 321, 432; altar of, in
the Church of St. Sylvester,
i. 320 ; place of concealment of,
i. 380; chapel of, i. 882; ex-
posed to the wild beasts, i. 291
Easter Sunday, festival of, ii. 203
Egeria, fountain of, i. 384 ; grotto
of, i. 385 ; supposed transforma-
tion of the nymph, ii. 368
Egina Marbles, ii. 313; discovery
of, ii. 314, 316; interesting
group of, ii. 315
Egypt, Obelises of, i. 259; brought
to Some, i. 851, 855
Egyptian ancient sculpture, ii. 65
Caryatides, of granite,
supposed to represent AntinoUs
as a priest, i. 99, 100
lions in basalt, i. 155
obelisk of granite, i 6jf
N
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Google
iin)Ex.
405
Egyptian temple, ii. 325
JEjmissarium, the, or outlet to the
Alban Lake, ii. 855
ISmeiald plasm, sculpture in, ii.
168
Eminentissimi, a title given to
Cardinals, ii. 177
Emperors, busts of the, ii. 73, 74
— forums of the, i. 214
— statues of the, i. 98
Empress Helena, said to kaye been
an Englishwoman, i. 879. n;
ohurch of Santa Croce built by, i.
438 ; relics from the Holy Land,
collected by, i. 484; sarcophagus
of, i. 100
Eficsenia, celebration of the, at
Hadrian's villa, ii. 325
Ennius, the first poet of Eome,
i. 166
Epiphany, festa of the, ii. 235
Equestrian statue of Trajan, i. 210
of Marcus Aure-
lius, i. 76
Esculapius, temple of, in the sacred
island, ii. 18
Esquiline Hill, ruins of, i. 178,
174; derivation of its name,
i. 175 ; palace of Tullius on the
summit, i. 174 ; Imperial dwel-
lings on, ibid ; ii. 161
Eternal Father, statue of the, i. 14
Etruria, i. 49
Etrurians, obscurity of their his-
toiy, i. 49; cultivation of the
fine arts by, i. 50 ; ii. 70
Etruscan yascs, i. 6
sculpture, ii. 313
statue, i. 193
356
- system of engineering, ii.
Euripus, canal round the circus, i.
260
Executions, public at Itome, pre-
noiis to the carnival, ii. 258,
259
Fabius, the Roman Consul, i. 57
"■ the censor, arch of, i. 199
Fabii, arch of the, i. 183
Fabricius, bridge of, mentioned by
Horace, i. 332 ; ii. 17
Falconieri PaUce, paintings in, ii.
183, 135
Fantoccini, or Burattini, Italian
puppet-dramas, ii. 267
Farce, Oscan, or Atellanas, plays
performed by young Roman
amateurs, i. 274
Farm, Sabine, of Horace, ii. 337
Famese, Popes and Princes, i.
189 ; gardens, i. 140, 143 ; con-
vent, ibid; palace, ii. 142
Famesinay painted hall of the, ii.
140
Fasti Consulares. ii. 87
Faun, Dancing, statue of, i. 4
Ferentinum, modern Marino, foun-
tain and temple of, ii. 353
Feri80 Latinaj, i. 89; celebration
of the, ii. 363
Festa of the Annunciation, ii. 177
of the Epiphany, ii. 285
Festival of St. Peter's, ii. 208
Festini, or public masked balls, ii.
257
Feudal ruins, i. 391
wars, of the Homan nobles,
i. 139
Fiano Palace, ii. 93
Ficus Naevia, i. 194
Ruminails, the tree beneath
which Romulus and Remus were
nurtured by a wolf, i. 86, 192—4
Fiesole, romantic situation of, i. 17 :
convent on the summit of, once
the residence of Milton, i. 21
Filatrice, statue of, ii. 307
FilippoNeri, St.,mii'acle performed
by, ii. 113
Digitized by
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406
uxumx.
Fine Arts, pre-eminence of the, i.
18, 20 ; academy of, i. 83, 35 ;
general adaptation of, by the
ancients, ii. 70^ 71 ; cultivation
of, in Rome, ii. 309, 312;
parsimony of the British gorem-
liient in all that relates to, ii.
133, 317
FlaminiuB, circus of, i. 256
Flavian Amphitheatre, See Colos-
seum.
Flora, a favourite goddess among
the Romans, i. 257; games in
honour of, ibid
Floralia, or games of Flora, i. 257
Florence, i. 12, 17 ; the Athens of
Italy, i. 18 ; museum of, i. 6, 9 ;
cathedral of, i. 12, 13 ; sculptured
altar-piece of ditto, by Michel
Angelo, i. 14 ; gates of ditto,
representing the histoiy of the
Old and New Testament, i. 15 ;
last view of, i. 21 ; residence of
Milton, in the vicinity of, i. 21 ;
hospital of, ii. 229 ; cemetery of,
ii. 290 ; mosaics of, ii. 311
Florentine gallery of sculpture, i.
1, 5, 92
Florentini theatre of Naples, ii. 264
Fons Olei, or fountain of sacred oil,
ii. 23
Fontana di Felice or di Termini,
ii. 30
Paolina, ii. 28
in the Piazza Barberini,
ii.32
of the Piazza Navona, i.
854, ii. 31
of St. Peter's, ii. 32
di Termini, so contrived
as to overflow during the heat of
summer, ii. 31, 32
Fonte Gerulo, ancient fountain of
Egeria, ii. 368
Fora Civilia, for the transaction of
public business, i. 182
or Fonims, of which there
were anciently two kinds, i. 182
Fora Yenaliay a market, L 182
Fomarina, the beloved mistrew of
Raphael, portrait of, i. 5, 6
Fortune, Temple of, inscriptioa on
the, i. 185, n ; statue of, in tiie
Vatican, i. 93
Forum of Antoninus Pius, i. 211;
remains of, converted into a
Custom-house, i. 212
— — of Augustuai, i. 205
Boarium, or cattle-market,
description of, i. 214, 215; living
sacrifices offered in the, L 216,
217
of Julius Csesar, i. 204
of Mars, i. 205
of Nerva, i. 205 ; remains
of, still extant, i. 205, 207
Olitorium, i. 249
of Peace, i. 205, 241, ».
Populi, ii. 363
Roman, degradati(m of, to
a cattle market, i. 76; Corinthian
columns, triumphal arches, and
ruined temples in, i. 77; plan
of the, 179, 188, 191 ; in tiie
plain of this Forum was fought
the battle between the ravishers
of the Sabine women and their
foes, i. 86 ; remarkable buildings
of, i. 190, 202; ruins of, i. 190,
199; lakes, gulf^, groves, &c. of, i.
201, 202 ; remarkable scenes in,
i. 78, 203; visit to, by moon-
light, ii. 391
of Trajan, piazza of, exca-
vated by the French, i. 207, 208;
erection of, by Apollodorus, i.
209; library of,i. 210; statues of,,
i. 211
Forums of the Fmperors, i. 214
Forum& of Greece and Rome com^
pared, i. 182
Fossa Cluilia, i. 391 ; scene of the
combat between the Horatii and
Curiatii, ii. 360
Quiritium, i. 115
Fountain of Juturna, i. 219
Digitized by
Google
INSBX.
407
FonntAin Of Meta Sadans, i. 299
— — of the Aqua Ferentinee,
u. 353
of the nymph Bgeria, i.
384 ; medicinal properties of its
waters, ibid.
- of the Tartarache, in the
Piazza Mattel, ii.
• of Trevi, ii.
Fountains of Rome, ii. 29. 32
Fraacati, i. 62 ; modem road to, i.
389, ii. 340 ; origin of the name,
ibid, ; viJlas of, ii. 341; extensive
view from, ii. 347
French taste in converting the
Boman Forum into a promenade,
1.179
academy, established in
Some, ii, 163; occupation of
Italy by the, i. 180, ii. 174;
desecration of the Colosseum by
the, L 83
Frescoes by Albani, ' Centaur car-
rying off Dejanira, and Hercules
slaying him with an arrow,' ii.
117.
■ by Agostino Caracci, ' Tri-
umph of Galatea ;' ' Aurora car-
rying off Cephalus,'' ii. 142.
by Annibale Caracci, of
the ' Eternal Father,' ii. 17; ' Tri-
umph of Bacchus and Ariadne,'
ii. 142 ; ' Perseus and Andro-
meda,' ii. 143 ; ' Nymph and
Unicom,' ibid.
- by Camuccini, ' Marriage of
Cupid and Psyche,' ii. 133,
by Daniel da Volteria, ii.
141.
' by Domenicheno, ' Martyr-
dom of St. Sebastian,' i. 326;
''The Angel presenting crowns
to St. Cecilia and Valerian,' ii.
4 ; ' Death of St. Cecilia/ ibid. ;
' Flagellation of St. Andrew,' ii.
6; 'Flagellation and Glorifica-
tion of St. Andrew,' ii. 13 ; ' The
Four Evangelist 8^' ibid; 'The
Cardinal Yirtnes/ ii. 14; ' David
dancing before the ark,' ibid.;
Judith with the head of Holo-
femes,' ibid. ; ' Esther before Aha-
suems,' ibid. ; ' Solomon and the
Queen of Sheba,' ibid ; ' The As-
sumption/ ibid; 'Baptism of
Si Jerome/ ii. 25 ; ' St Jerome
tempted by the Devil/ ibid.;
' St. Jerome scourged by Angels,*
ibid. ; * Apollo/ ii. 117 ; * Time
seizing hold of Tmth,' ibid;
' Baehael and Jacob/' u. 18 ;
minsof 18 frescoes, ii. 351.
Frescoes by Giotto, * St. Peter
walking on the waves,' in the
church of the Capuchins, ii, 10.
by Guercino, 'Aurora,' in
the villa Ludovisi, ii. 149, 150.
by Guide, ' Flagellation of
St. Andrew,* ii. 6 ; ' Angel and
Beggars at dinner with St.
Gregory/ ii. 7; 'Choir of An-
gels,' ibid. ; ' The Annunciation/
ii. 145 ; 'Aurora/ ii. 147,
by Giulio Bomano, ii. 162
by Lanfranco, ' Polyphe-
mus and Galatea,' ii. 117.
by Michael Angelo, 'The
Last Judgment,' ii. 40, 42 ; ' Si-
byls and Prophets,' ii 42 ; ' The
Eternal Father/ ibid.; 'The
Creation of Man and Woman,'
ibid. ; Expulsion from Paradise/
ibid.; ' Paradise/ ibid.
by Balthasar Perazzi, ' Tho
Presentation in the Temple,' ii.
141.
by Pietro di Cortona, ' The
Archangel bearing the symbols
of our Saviour's Passion to Hea-
ven/ ii. 12.
by Raphael, ' Burning of
the Borgo San Spirito ;' ' Libe-
ration of St. Peter from Ptison;'
* School of Athens,' ii. 48 ; ' Co-
ronation of Charlemagne by Leo
III./ ii. ^9; 'Dispute upon the
Digitized by
Google
40S.
I^fPSX.
Sftcrament/ ii. 51 ; ' ApoUo on
Mount Parnassus,' ibid. ; * Mi-
racle of Botoena/ ibid. ; ' Meet-
ing of Attila with Pope Leo I.,'
ibid. ; ' Expulsion of Heliodorus
from the Temple by Angels/ ii.
52 ; ' Cupid and Payche/ ii. 140 ;
'Nuptials of Alexander the
Qreat and Boxana,' ii. 157.
Funeral of a cardinal, it 298
Funerals, origin of the term, i.
866 ; early practice of parrying
lights at, still enforced by Boman
Catholics, ibid.
— — in Borne, ii. 288 ; simi-
larity between the modem and
ancient processions, ii. 289
Fnrietti mosaic, the, found in
Hadrian's Tilla» ii. 72
Gabu, the ancient, i. 89
Qabinetto di Kerone, or balcony
whence Nero riewed the circus
games, i. 145
Oabinus, yillaof, ii. 345
Galileo, monument of, i. 12
Gallery, geographical, in the Vati-
can, i. 101
of paintings in the Va-
tican, i. 103
- of Statues, i. 07
Gallienus, arch of, i. 844
Gambling, in Borne, ii. 295
Games, Agonal, i. 257
—- of the Amphitheatre, i. 290;
total abolition of, i. 301
of the Circus, i. 260, 261 ;
signal for commencing, i. 262
- of Flora, i. 257
— Javanese, i. 300
— Secular, in honour
of
Apollo, i. 269
of Trastevere, ii. 21
Gardens, Boighese, iL 158, SCO
— — — of Julius Cffisar, ii. 157
Gaspar Poussin, landscapes painted
by, L 319
Gate of Pompeii, i. 356
triumphal, at the end of the
Circus, i 26<{
Gates of Borne, i. 117, 128, 124,
125; ancient inscriptions on the
Porta Maggiore, i. 117, n; at
the Porta Pinciana is an inscrip-
tion to Belisarius, i. 121
Gauls^ defeat of the, by the intrepid
Manlius, i. 837
Gems, ii. 812
Genezzano, a town near Palestrina,
ii. 372 ; miiacolous Madonna of,
ibid.
Gensano, a town on the lake of
Nemi, ii. 368
Genseric the Vandal, iuTasion of
Borne by, i. 124; pillage of the
palace of the Caesars by, i. 189 ;
spoils taken from the Pantheon
by, i. 227
Germanicus, enthusiasm of the
people at the supposed recovery
of, i. 226, «.; arch of, i. 344,
845
Germany, music of, ii. 262
Ghetto, the quarter where the Jews
are compelled to reside in Borne,
i. 284
Giotto, the Siencse painter, sculp-
tor, and architect, origin and
fame of, i. 35
Girandola, the, ii. 208
Giuliano de' Medici, assassination
of in the Cathedral of Florence,
i. 14
Gladiators, combats of, i. 84 ; shows
of, i. 204; death of, i. 292; ex-
pensive exhibition of, by Caesar,
in the Circus, i. 261 ; senators,
and women of rank fought
as, i. 262 ; statue of the Dying'
Gladiator, ii. 79, 82
Glass, use of by the ancients, i.
Digitized by
Google
INDEX.
409
182; discovery of, at Hercnlft-
neum, ibid.
Glazing, art of, when introduced,
i. 132
Golden house of Nero, i. 186-137
Goldoni, plays of, ii. 264, 265,
267
Good Friday, services on, in Roman
Catholic churches, ii. 191
Gothic architecture, i. 73
Government of Italy, ii. 380, 382
Gracchi, the, i. 196
Gracchus, prophetic prayer of, ful-
filled in Rome's debasement,
i. 170
GrsBooBtasis, or hall for foreign
ambassadors, i. 190, 191, n.
Grecian architecture, i. 78
Graces, ancient group of,
1.32
.— . sculpture, i. 3, 4 ; ii. 113
statues, the pride of Flo-
rence, i. 2
Greece, forums of, i. 182
Gregory the Great, remarks of, in
the slave market, i. 195, 196
Grotto of Bgeria, i. 385, ii. 868
— Ferrata, ii. 850; convent
of Greek monks in the, ii. 351
-of Neptune, ii. 329, 388,
337
Gvottos of Ascanins, ii. 363
of Albano, plan of the, ii.
^58
Grove of Laurels, on the Aventine,
i. 163
Sacred, of the vestal virgins,
i. 192
of Virbius, beautiful prospect
from the, ii. 367
Guard, PraBtorian, ruins of the
quarters of the, ii. 824
Ouido di Siena, i. 34 ; frescoes of,
ii. 6. See Frescoes ; remarkable
painting by, the Arehangel
trampling upon Satan, ii. 10 ;
f>aintings of, ii. 89, 183, 184,
146, 147. See Paintings.
GnlfofOnrtius, 1.202
Gymnasium, or Paleestra, arena of,
i. 325
H.
Habits and food of the Italians,
ii. 294, 295
Hadrian, splendid temple erected
by, i. 244 ; inhuman murder of
the artist who ci-iticised the plan,
i. 209, 244 ; death of the wife of,
i. 245; patronage of arts and
letters by, i. 245 ; ii. 72 ; circus
of, 1. 258 ; tomb of, i. 404; villa
of, ii. 321 ; mosaic found in the,
ii. 72 ; mausoleum of, i. 370
Hair of a Roman lady found in a
tomb in the Appian way, ii. 37
Hannibal, retreat of, from Rome,
temple in honour of, i. 387 ;
camp of, i. 388, ii. 860
Hall of Animals, in Uie Vatican,
i. 96
oftheBiga, i. 100
of the Grecian cross, i. 99,
100
of Inscriptions, in the museum
of the Capitol, ii. 66,70
of the Muses, i. 98, 99
of Niobe, i. 7.
of the great Porphyiy vase, i.
199
Hawkswood, Sir John, i. IS
Heliogabalns, Baths of, i. 310;
body of, hurled from the Pons
Sublicius, i. 331 ; hippodrome of,
i, 146
Herculaneum, library at, i. 136
Hercules, great altar of, i. 285 ;
temple of, ii. 332 ; town sacred
to, ibid; remains of the temple
of 11.369
Hills, the seven, i. 127
Digitized by
Google
410
imiBX.
Hippodrome, the place appointed
for chariot races, i. 255
— — of Constantme, i.
441
u. 322
146
■ of Hadrian's villa,
of Heliogabalus, i.
Historic scenery, i. 62, 63, 89 ; ii.
365
from the Pala-
tine, i. 147, 148
Holy days, obserrance of, in Borne,
ii, 235
doors, i. 421, 422
Sepulchre, i. 149
staircase, which Christ de-
scended from the judgment seat
of Pilate, i. 398
week, services of the, ii. 183,
202
years, invented by Boniface
VIII, i. 421, 422
Homes of the Italians, ii. 292
Honorius, games of the amphi-
theatre abolished by, i. 300
Horace, Sabine farm of, ii. 329;
villa of, ii. 335
Horatii, tomb of the, ii. 860
Horse-races during the Carnival,
ii. 267
Horses, Bomish ceremony of bles-
sing, ii. 233
Hospital of Florence, ii. 229
of Hadrian's villa, ii. 323
■ of San Spirito, at Bome,
ii. 229
of the TriniUfc de' Pelle-
grini, here pilgrims are lodged
during the holy week, ii. 196
Hospitals, Italian, situation and
character of, ii. 229
House of Augustus, i. 135, 145
of Claude Lorraine, ii. 11
of Meceenas, i. 312
of Nero, i. 136,137
of Nicholas Poussin, ii. 11
of Ovid, site of the, i. 159
House of Pilate, i. 445 ; insoriptiflii
upon the, i. 446; the resideaee
of Cola di Bienzi, i. 447
of Plautius Lateranus, i. 398
ofPliny, i. 175
of Baphael, ii. 147
of St. Catherine, i 38
of SaUust, I 270
of Salvator Bosa, ii. 12
of the Scipios, i. 179; ii. 103
of Tiberius, i. 136, 146
of Virgil, i. 175
of the Virgin, i. 434
Houses of ancient Borne, i. 130
of Caligula, i. 136
of Pompeii, i. 131
of the ancients, i. 133, ld4;
methods of warming, as related
by Virgil and Horace, ibid.
Human sacrifices, i. 254
Hunting, ii. 236, 237, 296
loHNOoBAPHT, or plan of Borne, i.
188, n.
Iliac table, representii^ the prin-
cipal scenes of the Iliad, ii. 71
Illumination of St. Peter's, and
fireworks from, ii, 200
Image, miradulous, in St. Peter's^
i. 413
Immorality of the middle classes
in Bome, ii. 250, 251
Imperial Palace, baths of the, i,
140, 141
Improvisatore, Sgricci, the celebra-
ted, ii. 273
Improvisatori, academy of in.- Bome,
ii. 272, 276
Improvisatrice, ii. 276, 277
Indolence of the Italians, ii. 287,
296
Indulgences, sale of inthechorehes
of Bome, i. 398, 419, 420, n.
Digitized by
Google
ISfSXX.
411
Indulgences promised to the to-
t&ries of the black cross in the
arena of the Colosseum, i. 83
. plenaiy, ii. 19 ; theo-
logical conference respecting,
ibid.
Inquisition of Rome, i. 455, ii.
309 ; founder of the, i. 169
Inscriptions, hall of, ii. 66, 70
Instruments used in sacrifice, com-
pared with those now used in
Boman churches, i. 216
Interment of Christ on Holy Thurs-
day, iL 195
Isis, temple of, i. 166; fine Grecian
Btatue of, ii. 77 ,* ancient statue
of, ii. 167
Island, Sacred, i. 87 ; ii. 18, 387
Italy, scenery of, i. 28, 379; palaces
of, ii. 91, 92 ; commerce of, ibid ;
occupation of by the French, ii.
174; gardens of, ii. 159; hospi-
tals of, ii. 229; superstitious
character of the inhabitants, ii.
284; vexatious imposts in, ii,
881
Italian character, ii. 20, 248 ; cook-
exy, ii. 293 ; literature, ii. 282 ;
marriages, ii. 243; nobility ii.
98, 245, 246, 248; peasantry,
i. 272; preachings, ii. 193;
servants, ii 125; women, ii.
> 219
Intermontium, in which stood the
Zelum consecrated by Romulus,
1.167
Island of Ponzo, to which the early
Romans were exiled, ii. 360
Itinerant mumcians, ii. 261
Jani of ancient Rome, i. 215
Janiculum, mount, i. 87, 114, 166,
206
JTanus, arch of, i. 343
Quadrifrontis, ruin of, i. 214
Jews, Roman, i. 284, 285 ; banish-
ment of, by Claudius, ibid;
baptism of, during the Holy Week
in Rome, ii. 198
John of Bologna, fiune of, i. 7
Jugurtha, imprisonment and death
of, i. 160
Julius Caesar, birth place of, i. 175;
temple of, converted into a slave
market, i. 196; forum of, i.
204 ; descent of, from the god^
dess Yenus, i. 248, n ; exhibition
of gladiators by, i. 261; hia
value of time, ibid ; divorce of
the wife of, i. 167; monument
of, i. 459
Juno Lucina, beautiful statue of, in
the Villa Albani, ii. 166
Jupiter, remarkable statue of, in
the Vatican, i. 97
Capitolinus, temple of, i.
75 ; statue of, i. 154
Feretrius, i. 153, 164
OptimuB Maximus, i. 200
Stator, templo of, i. 152,
n ; the first temple dedicated ta
that g^d in Rome, i. 80
Tonans, temple of, i. 79 ;
statue of, ii. 169
- Viminalis, altar of, i. 177
Justinian, Pandects of, i. 12
Jutuma, lake of, i. 190; miraculous
appearance of Castor and Pollux,
twice on the margin of the, ibid;
fountain of, i. 219
K.
Kino of Spain, residence of the,
in Rome, i. 168
Knights of Malta, church in Rome^
belonging to the, i 167; gar-
dens of, ibid.
Digitized by
Google
412
I^PEX.
IiACUB» i. 187
Ladies, litenury, ii. 249
Lago di Patria, 1. 361
Lake, Alban, ii. 355, 366
— of Bolsena, i. 48 ; two floating
iBlaada of, ibid.
— of Jaturna, situation, i. 190;
remarkable appearance of Castor
and Polloz on the borders of,
ibid.
of Nemi, ii. 868
— ^- of Nero's Golden House, i. 137
— ^ RegiUus, ii. 342
Sulphureous, ii. 319
Tartarean, ii. 318; petrify-
ing quality of, ii. 319
ofVico, L57
of Viterbo, I 56
L^mbs, ceremony of blessing the,
ii. 234
Language of signs^ use of, by the
Italians^ ii. 255
Laocoon, statue of the, i. 110, 111 ;
discovery and restoration of, i.
112, «., i. 318
Li^is specularis, use of for glazing
windows, i. 133; found chiefly
in Spain, ibid.
LaScala, i. 41
Last Judgment, the noted fresco
of Michel Angelo, ii. 41
Lateran Baptistery, i. 400, 401
paUwe, i. 400
Laurentinum villa of the younger
Pliny, ii. 388
Lavinium of the Trojans, i. 150, ii.
368
Lectistemum, entertainment given
to the gods, i. 273, 368, n.
Leonardo da Vinci, character and
genius of, ii. 110; works and
jesidence of, ibid; portrait of,
ii. 112 ; portrait of Joan of Arra-
gon by, ii. 97 ; origin and fame
of, ii. 110, 111. See Paintings.
Lepidus, villa of, ii. 336
Libraiy of Apellicon, i. 284
at Hercnlaneum, i 136, n.
Laurentian, in Florence,
i. 12
of Liberty, the first public
library in Home, i. 166
of Marcellus, i. 149
at Milan, i. 36
"■ Palatine, i. 142
Ulpian, i. 210
— — of the Vatican, ii. 33, 38 ;
sacred and profane cabinets of,
ii. 35; papyrus manuscripts of,
ii. 36
Libraries of Hadrian s villa, ii. 323
Lintemum, i. 361 •
Literature of Italy, ii. 249, 282
Livia, battles of, i. 141 ; villa of,
i. 374
Loggie of Baphael, i. 92 ; ii. 56
of the Vatican, ii. 59
Lorenzo the Magnificent, duke of
Florence, character of, L 12;
library founded by, ibid ; attemp-
ted assassination of, i. 14
Lotus, planting of the, by Romulus,
coeval with the cypress, i. 199 ;
ornamental use of in statuary,
ii. 65, 72 ; relievo of AntinoUs
crowned with, ii. 169
Lucien Bonaparte, villa of, ii.
343 ; occupation of by banditti,
ii. 373; stratagem of, to hold
communion with Kapoleon in
Elba, ii. 835, n.
Lucius Verus, villa and gardens of,
i. 374 ; busts of, ibid. n.
LucuUuB, tomb of, ii. 348 ; exten-
sive cellars in the villa of, ii. 349
Ludus Matutinus, ii. 161
Lung* Amo, i. 17
Lupercal, antiquity and situation
of, i. 194, 195
Lupercalia, feasts of the, i. 253
Lutheranism, toleration of,, in
Bome, i. 175
Digitized by
Google
INDEX.
413
M.
Macelluh Maonitm, or market
-for provisions in Komc« i. 173
Madama, villa of, ii. 164
Madonna, by St. Luke, i. 16
miracles wrought by
the, ii. 226
Maestre Pie, communities of
females for the education of the
the poor, ii. 222
Magna Grsecia, climate of, i. 134;
here the Acanthus blooms, i.
143
Malaria of Bolscna, i. 47, 50
of Rome, i. 64, ii. 23, 386
Malediction, on Jews, Turks,
and Heretics, ii. 207
Mamertine prisons, dungeons of, i.
160, 161; here St. Peter and St,
Paul were imprisoned, ibid.
ManliuB Capitolinus, site of the
house of, i. 153
' Torquatus, origin of the
surname, i. 337 ; inscription in
memory of, ii. 370
Mantua, relics found at, ii. 232
Manuscripts, rare and vabiablc, in
the Laurentian library, i. 12;
— on papyrus, in the
Vatican, ii. 36
Marana, or Aqua Crabra of Cicero,
11. 350
Marbles, Egina, ii. 313
Phigalian, ii. 316 «.
Marcellus, library and museum of,
i. 142; statue of, ii. 123
Marcus Agrippa, urn of, 1. 395
Aurelius, ancient temple
of, i. 66; famous equestrian
statue of, i. 76 ; statue of, i. 93 ;
triumphal arch of, i. 211, 345;
11.86
Marino, picturesque situation of, ii.
353 ; churches and ancient name
of, ibid.
MarioneUcs, theatre of, Ii. 267
Marius, disputed trophies of, i.
155, 156
Mark Anthony, the murderer of
Cicero, 1. 78
Market for slaves, i. 195
for provisions, i. 173
Marriages in Italy, ii. 243; periods
of the year when forbidden, ii.
287 ; ceremony of, in Catholic
churches, ibid
Mars, temple of, erected by Augus-
tus, 1. 197 ; church on the site
of, ibid.; forum of, 1. 205;
priests of, i. 262
Marsyas, statue of, in the Floren-
tine gallery, 1. 8, n.
Martona, i. 48
Martyrdom of Saints, i. 319
Martyrs, ground of the Colosseum
consecrated by the blocd of, i.
82; place of Interment of, i.
459; relics of, sold throughout
Christendom, i. 382
Masaccio's fresco of St. Catherine,
in the church of St. Clement,
i. 439 ; death of, i. 440
Masquerade at the Carnival in
Kome, ii. 254, 257
Mass, when performed at the
great altar of St. Peter's, i. 416
Mausoleum of Augustus, i. 3G9
of the dukes de Mcdicis,
i. 11
37a
- of Hadrian, 1. 861
of Santa Constantia, 1.
Maxentius, defeat of, by Constan-
tino, 1. 334 ; remarkable appari-
tion previous, ibid.
Mazimus, The Circus, L 256 ; plan
of the, 1. 258
Mec8enas, house of, i. 312 ; classic
remains of, 1. 313
Medical profession in Rome, Ii.
247
Medusa, head of, i. 99
Meleager, one of the finest statues
In the world, 1. 95, 109
Digitized by
Google
414
nn)Ex.
Memmi, Simone, i. 35
Mercury, statue of, by John of
Bologna, i. 7
Meridian, traced by Bianchini in
1701, i. 827
Meta Sudans, fountain of, i. 299
Metaatasio, birth-place of, ii. 849
Michael Angelo Buonarotti, in-
feriority of existing works to the
fame of, i. 6, 10 ; tomb of, i. 22;
life and character of, i. 458;
favourite study of Torso, i. 93 ;
painting of the Virgin and dead
Christ, in St. Peter's, i. 412;
frescos of. See Frescoes; the
Last Judgment by, ibid. ; statue
of Christ by, i. 466; statue of
Moses, ibid.
Milan, the metropolis of literature,
ii. 285; cathedral of, i. 451;
library of, i. 36
Mile-stone, recording the distance
of the great Boman roads, i.
196
— — ancient Roman, i. 155 ;
in marble, ii. 66
ancient Eoman, disco-
very of, i. 124, w.
Milliarium Aureum, i. 196
Military amphitheatre, ancient re-
mains of, i. 122
Milton, residence of in the convent
of Fiesole, i. 196 ; scenes in the
vicinity of Florence, consecrated
in his Paradise Lost, ibid.
Miltonic pictures in the Sistine
chapel, ii. 43
Minerva Medica, i. 86
■ pi-ocession to the, on
Palm Sunday, ii. 176
- the finest statue of in the
world, ii. 169; church of, i. 456;
procession to the church of,
ii. 176
Mint, the, i. 153
Miracles, Pagan and Boman, ii.
226, 230
by Madonnas, ii. 226
Miserere, service of the, in the
holy week, ii. 182, 185
Mithra, worship of, first introduced
into Rome, i. 96; statue of, ibid.;
rilievo of the sacrifices of, ii. 168
Modem Rome, i. 88
Monasterio, a nunnery, ii. 22, 218
Mons Albanus, i. 89 ; ii. 362, 364
Mons Janiculus, i. 114
Mons Sacer, the hill to which the
Roman army retired during the
civil wars, i. 335, 336
Soracte, i. 88
Monte Algido, i. 89; the site of
the city of Algidum, ii. 342 ; now
the resort of banditti, ii. 378
Caprino, i. 153; ii. 158
Cavallo, the modem name
of the Quirinal, i. 177
Cavo, i. 89, ii. 362 ; ascent
of, ii. 363 ; summit of, ii. 364
Falcone, ii. 342
Mario, i. 164 ; ascent of, ii.
163; geological treasures of, ii.
283
Montorio, i. 114
Porcio, the birthplace of
Cato, ii. 342
Testaccio, formed of frag-
ments of earthenware, i. 429 :
wine-stores formed in the, i. 430
Montefiascone, i. 52; celebrated
wine of, i. 53 ; ruins of, ii. 381
Monterosi, i. 59
Monti di Pie«l, of Rome, ii. 295
Monument of Salvator Rosa, i. 326
to Julius CsBsar, i. 457
Morals, depraved state of, in Rome,
ii. 245
Mosaic painting in St. Peter's, i.
413
Mosaic pavement in the cathedral
of Siena, i. 31
in the hall of the
Vatican, i. 99, 100
Mosaics, beauty and indestructi-
bility of, i. 413; remarkable one
found in the churdi of San
Digitized by
Google
IKPEX.
415
Lorenzo, i. 437 ; ancient ones in
the Hall of Inscriptions, ii. 68,
72; manu&ctory of, ii. 809,
311
Moses, statne of, by Michael An-
gelo, i. 456
Mount Augustus, 1. 172
Aventine, i.l64
Ciminus, ii. 346
C<Elius, L 113
Janicukun, i. 87, 114, 166,
206.
■ Soracte, i. 63, 88, 89 ; ii,
847
Badicofoni, i. 41
Mountains, classic, i. 89
Mnrcia, altar of the Meta, 1. 159
Muio Torto, the, i. 119, 121
Musa,- Antonius, i. 93
Museo Ghiaramonti, i. 92
■ Pio Clementino, i. 93
Muses, hall of the, i. 98
sacred, ii. 189
Museum, Bclvidere, i. 98
of the Capitol, ii. 62, 71
of the bones of the
Capuchins, ii. 11
of Florence, i. 6, 9
of Mareellus, i. 142
— - of Natural History, i. 142
of Paintings, at the
Capitol, ii. 84—89
- of the Vatican, ii.
61
Music, academy of, ii. 263
of England, ii. 271
of France, ii. 270
of Germany, ii, 262
ofItaly,ii. 270, 271
of Naples, ii. 261
Musicians, itinerant, ii. 261
IN.
Nafues, music of, 11. 261 ; cemetery
of, ii. 290; catacombs of, ii, 382
Naples, theatres of, ii. 269
botanical gardens of, ii.
285
Napoleon, imprisonment of monks
by, ii. 224 ; stratagem by which
he held communication with his
brother Lucien, when in Elba, ii.
336, «.; reign of in Italy, ii.
384 ; despotism of, ii. 224 ;
tomb of the father of, ii. 348
National dances, ii. 291
habits of the lower classes.
ii. 294, 297
Natural antiquities of Borne, ii.
283, 284
Naumachia, curious ruins of the,
ii. 325
Navalia, the, i. 66
Nemi, lake of, ii. 368
Nero, tower of, i. 45; palace or
golden house of, i. 136, 137 ;
destruction of the, i. 138 ; baths
of, i. 144, ii. 123; arch of, i.
157 ; descent of, i. 190 n ; circus
of, i. 257 ; escape of, from assas-
sination, i. 334; death of, i. 336;
tower of, i. 450 ; tomb of, i. 64,
120, 371; remarkable tree grow-
ing therefrom, ibid.; aqueducts
of, i. 346 ; arch of, i. 157, n.
Nettuno, the ancient Antium, ii.
369
Nile, statue of the, i. 244
Niobe, statue of, and her fourteen
children, i. 7, 8 ; casts of in the
British Museum, i. 8, n. ; hall of
i. 7
Nozze Aldobrandini, celebrated
painting in the baths of Titus, i.
316; ii. 97
Numa, visits of to the grotto of
Egeria, i. 385; burial-place of,
i. 87 ; site of the Capitol of, ii.
108
Numicns, a river of Nettuno, ii.
369, 387
Nymph Egeria, ii. 368
NymphBBum, a place of cool retreat
Digitized by
Google
416
IHDEX.
attached to Roman viUag, i. 386;
only remaina of, ii. 357; plan of,
ii. 358
Kymphniim of Domitian, ii. 357
OsELiscon the Ooelian Hill, i. 354
in the Church of Santa Ma-
ria Maggiore, i. 354
- Church of Santa Ma-
ria fiopra Minerva, i. 354
— Egyptian, i. 65
Fameaina, the, ii. 139
Fiano, ii. 93
- on the Fountain of the
Piazza Navona, i. 854
- on the Fountain in the
Piazza della Botonda, i. 354
- in the court of the Vatican
Palace, i. 354
Palaestrina, i. 325
■ Pincian, 'in the Circus
of Sallust, present position and
description of, i. 355
" — on the Pincian Hill, i. 354
of Titus, i. 312
Obelises of Egypt, brought to
Rome, i. 351, 355; description
of that before St. Peter's, i. 70,
352
in the Piazza del Popolo,
brought from Egypt by Augus-
tus, i. 352
at the entrance of the
Mausoleum of Augustus, sup-
posed to have been erected one
thousand years before Christ, i.
354, 869
in the Campus Martins,
i. 353
1. 364
in the Circus of Caracalla,
353
in the Circus Mazimns, i.
Obelise in the Circus of Sallust^ I.
259, 354
Objects of worship in the Italian
churches, i. 15, 16
Octavia, the neglected wife of An-
thony, i. 282 ; portico of, ibid ;
284
Operas and opera-singers, ii. 263,
269
Oppius and Cispius, summits of
the Esquiline Hill, i. 175, 176
Oracles at Bome, i. 251, 252
Orizonti, landscapes of, ii. 101
Orvietto, i. 53 ; wines of, iL 881
Orti Famesiani, or Famese gar-
dens, i. 143
Ostia, gate leading to, i. 124; for-
tifications of, ii. 386 ; population
of, ibid. ; origin, and remains of,
ii. 387
Ovid, house of, i. 159 ; villa of, i.
374 ; tomb of, ibid.
P.
Padua, botanical gardens of, Ii.
285
Paganism, religious rites and faith
of, i. 253
Pagan miracles, ii. 227
altar of Parian marble,
i. 32 ; remains of, i. 49
temple and worship, simi-
litude between, and Roman Ca-
tholic churches, ii. 26, 27
Psecile, of Hadrian's villa, ii. 322
Painters, celebrated, risen from the
lower classes, ii. 110
Paintings, by Albani, *Vennses,'
ii. 126.
■ by Albano, 'Rape of
Europa,' ii. 102.
by Andrea del Sarto,
* Holy Family,' ii. 109 ; ♦ Por-
trait of Leo X.,' ibid.
Digitized by
Google
I>"DEX.
417
Paintings by Andrea Sacclii, 'Dream
of St. Bruno/ ii. 59 ; ' Apostles/
ii. 108.
by Annibale Caracci,
' Magdalen in the Desert/' ii. 95 ;
' La Pieta/ ii. 96 ; ' Peasant at
dinner/ ii. 101; 'Madonna/ ii.
102; * Landscape/ iL 127 ; 'Christ
and Mary Magdalene/ ii. 181.
by Fra' Bartolomeo,
'Holy Family/ ii. 109, 110, 139;
' St Peter and St. Paul/ ii. 145
by Agostino Caracd,
'Baising lie Widow's child/ ii.
131
by Lndovico Caracci,
' Christ giving sight to the Blind,'
ii. 131 ; ' Samson pulling down
the Temple/ ii. 154
by Caravaggio, * Game-
sters/ii. 112 ; ' Judas returning
the thirty pieces of sllyer to the
Chief Priest,' ii. 113 ; ' St. Anne
teaching the Virgin to sew,' ii.
116; 'David with Goliath's
head/ ii. 126. 'Holy Family,'
ii. 138.
by Cignani, ' Joseph
and Potiphar's Wife,' ii. 108
by Claude Lorraine, the
'Molino,' ii. 94; the 'Tempio
d'Apollo,' ibid; 'Temple of
Venus/ ii. 101
by Daniel da Volterra,
' Deposition from the Cross/ ii,
11; 'St. Helena's Discovery of
the Cross, ibid.
by Domenichino, ' Com-
munion of St. Jerome/ ii. 67,
59 ; ' Sibyl/ ii. 88 ; ' Murder of
Peter the Martyr,' ii. 95 ; * Sports
of Diana and her Nymphs,' ii.
125; 'Ecce Homo/ ii. 145;
'Adam and Eve in Paradise,'
ii. 153 ; ' Triumph of David,' ii.
154
by Francisco Mola, ' An
old Woman with a Dog. ii. 131
Paintings by Garofalo, ii. 99
: by Gherardo delle Notti,
* Christ before Pilate,' ii. 130
by Giulio Romano, ' The
Nativity, ii. 13 ; * Image of the
Almighty,' ii. 57; 'Battle be-
tween Constantino and Maxen-
tius,' ii. 53 ; 'Venus in the Bath/
ii. 128 ; ' Christ and the Woman
of Samaria,' ii. 131 ; Bacchana-
lian Feasts/ ii. 146
by Guercino, 'Santa Pe-
tronilla,' ii. 60 ; ' Sibyl, ii. 88 ;
' Magdalen,' ii. 96 ; * Prodigal
Son,' ii. 98; 'Saints,' ii. 112;
' Rinaldo and Armida,' ii. 117 ;
' Fame blowing her Trumpet/ ii.
150 , 'Saul and David,' ii. 144 ;
' Ecce Homo,* ii. 137.
by Guido, ' Archangel
Michael trampling upon Satan/
ii. 10; 'Fortune/ ii. 59; 'Bac-
chus and Ariadne, 'ii. 89 ; Por-
trait of ' Beatrice Cenci,' ii. 103 ;
'St. Sebastian/ ii. 102; 'The
Ascension/ ii. 133 ; ' Marys at
the Cross/ ii. 134 ; ' Madonna
and Infant Christ/ ibid ; ' The
Annunciation,' ii. 145 ; ' Andro-
meda,' ii. 154
by Lanfranco, 'Justice
and Peace,' ii. 118 ; 'Oreo seiz-
ing Lucilla/ ii. 128
by Leonardo da Vine',
portrait of ' Queen Joan of Ar-
ragon/ ii. 97 ; * Leda,' ii. 127 ;
' Modesty and Vanity,' ii. 131
by Michael Angelo,
' Prophets and Sibyls,' ii. 3, 43
by Parmegiano, 'Mar-
riage of St. Catherine, ii. 127
by Pietro da Cortona,
* Triumph of Bacchus,' ii. 88
by Pietro Perugino, 'The
Nativity,' * Annunciation,' and
Crucifixion,' ii. 146
by G. Poussin, 'Land-
scapes,' ii. 94
2 £
Digitized by
Google
418
UTDBI.
PahitingB by N. Pouasin, ' Tri-
umph of Flora/ u. 88; 'Or-
pheus,' ibid ; copy of the ' Kozze
Aldobrandini/ ii. 97, 101;
'Death of Qermaaicus, iL 107;
< Miracle of St. Peter^ ibid ; ' The
MasBacre of the Ixmocenta,' ii.
ISO
«^_ by Qttintin Matays, 'The
Four MiserBy' ii. 99
— by Eaphael, ' St. John
the Baptist/ ii. 5; 'Transfi-
guration/ i. 229; ii. 57, 59:
'Sibyls/ ii. 2; 'Justice and
Mercy/ ii. 53 ; ' Baptism of
Christ/ ii. 57 ; ' Madonna del
Foligno/ ii. 69; 'St. Luke
painting the Virgin's portrait/
ii. 90 ; * Portrait of Fomarina,'
u. 107; 'Holy FamUy/ ibid;
'Portrait of a Musician/ ii. 112 ;
'Deposition from the Cross,' ii.
128; 'La Madonna de' Cande-
labri^ ii. 131 ; ' Portraits/ ii.
188
■ by Rubens, 'Altar-
Pieces/ ii. 12; 'Portrait of
Bubens' Confessor/ ii. 99 ; ' Por-
traits, ii. 131 ; ' Tiger Hunt, ii.
138
by Salvator Rosa, ' Beli-
sariuB,' ii. 95 ; ' Landscs^es, ii.
138, 146
by Sasso Ferrate, ' Holy
Family,' ii. 96 ; 'St. Joseph/ u.
97 ; ' Madonnas/ ibid.
-^— on touch-stone, by Si-
rani, 'Judith in prayer/ ii. 127
— by Sebastian del Piombo,
' La Pieti/ i. 55 ; ' Christ tied to
the column/ ii. 12; 'Flagella-
tion of Christ,' ii. 26 ; ' Resurrec-
tion of Lazarus/ ibid.
— by Paul Veronese, 'St.
Anthony preaching to the Fishes,'
ii. 127
by Tintoretto, 'Christ/
ii. 107
Paintings by Titian, 'Martyxdom
of St. Sebastian/ ii. 60; * Mag-
dalen,' ii. 96 ; ' Sacrifice of Isaac,
ibid; portrait of ' Andrea D<Nria»
ibid ; ' Luther and Calvin,* ibid ;
St. Catherine,' ibid; 'Giaoes,'
125 ; Sacred and Profane Love^*
ibid; 'Prodigal Son/ u. 126;
' Landscapes,' ii. 135
by Van MoUe, ' Diogenes
looking for an Honest Man,' ii.
131
. — by Vandyke, 'Portrait
of Rubens/ ii. 131
Palace, origin of the term, i. 129
— of the Caesars, founded by
Augustus, i. 134; situation, of,
i. 135 ; destruction of, i. 189
Corsini, the, ii. 137
of Domitian, ii 359
of Evander, ii. 868
of Licinius, i. 246
of Nero, i. 145, 147 «.
Palaces of Rome, ii. 91
of modem Rome, ii. 308
of Siena, i. 29
Palatine Hill, form and height of,
i. 127 ; valley of, celebrated for
the capture of the Sabine women,
i. 86; history of the, i. 128;
etymology of, ibid.; stntetores
of, i. 129; ruins of, i. 130, 147;
discovery of paintings in a laige
hall on the, i. 138 ; temples of,
i. 143 ; sunset on the, ii. 389
libraiy, i. 142
Palazzo Albani, ii. 146
Altieri, ii. 147
— Barberini, iL 106 ; pFMsnt
prince of, ibid., museum of, ibid.,
gardens of« ii. 108
Borghese, one of the largest
palaces in Rome, ii. 124; seu^
ture of, ii. 125; galley of, ii.
126, 128 ; gardens of the, iL 159
Brasehi, noble ardiitee-
ture of, ii. 121; gallery of the,
iL 122
Digitized by
Google
IKDEX.
419
Palazzo Caffarelli, ii. 147
of the Colonna fiunUy, ii.
362
de* Conservatori, ii. 84
Costaguti, freacoa in the,
ii. 117
— — Dona, ii. 94
Falconieri, ii. 138, 136
Farnese, ii. 143
Giustiniani, i. 221, ii. 122
Imperiale, of the French,
ii. 144
Luciano, gallery of, ii. 130;
paintings of Carracci, in the,
ii. 131
Massimi, chapels of the,
ii. 113,* in the stables are the
remains of Pompey's theatre,
ii. 114
Mattei, ii. 118
Nuovo di Torlonia, ii. 132
Pitti, at Florence, gallery
of scalptare in the, i. 9
Poniaiowski, ii. 147
■ Quirinal, ii. 144
- Bospigliosi, ii. 147; con-
tains the fomoos fresco of Qnido
'Aurora,' ibid.
— Ruspoli. ii. 147
Sciarra, paintings in the.
ii. 109, 112
Spada, description of, ii.
116 ; remarkable statue of Pom-
pey, in the, ii. 114, 116
Stoppani, ii. 147
Vecchio, i 20
' Verospi, ii. 147
Palestrina, ancient Prssneste, i. 89;
cydopean walls of, ii. 371
Palilla, or festiTals in honour of the
god Pales, i. 129
Pallas, temple of, i, 29
Palm Sunday in Bome, ii. 176
Falmsy artificial, bome in proces-
tions, ii. 181
Palombara. or gunpowder maaa-
ftctoiy of Bome, i. 311
Pandects of Justinian, i. 12
Pantheon, now the Botunda, i. 219 ;
degraded state of, i. 220; con-
secration of, as a Christian
church, ibid. ; plunder of, by
Gonstantine, i. 221 ; height,
diameter, and circumference of,
i. 123 n, ; statues in the, i. 227
n. ; best view of, ii. 123
Pantomines represented in Rome,
i. 274
Paolina chapel, ii. 44; illumination
of, ii. 186
Papal goremment, ii. 880
Papyri, chamber of, in the Vatican,
ii. 36
Papyrus, manuscripts on, in the
Vatican, ii. 36
Paris, statue of, L 97
Partisans, supporters of colours in
the chariot-races, i. 263
Pasquin, statue of, ii. 120; pas-
quinades or witticisms of, ibid.
Peace, temple of, i. 240
forum of, i. 206, 241
Peasants at confession, i. 417
Penitents, convent of, ii. 366
frequent processions of,
ii. 171.
Penitenza Maggiore, or eardinal
who absolves from crhnes which
no other priest can, ii. 187
Perseus, statue of, i. 107, 108 ;
imprisonment of, i. 161
Pestilence, expedients for staying
the progress ot; in Bome, i. 273
Phaontes, Nero's freedman, under
whose roof that emperor slew
himself, i. 886
Phidias and Praxiteles^ colossal
statues by, i. 178
Phigalian marbles, ii. 313, 816 n.
Philosophers, busts ot, iii 76;
theatre of, i. 276
Phocas, column of, i. 186
Piazza Barberini, i. 267
of the Capitol, now Campi-
doglio, i. 76
2 E 2
Digitized by
Google
420
KTDEX.
Piazza of St. Peter*s, description
of. i. 74
Navona, i. 250
della Botonda, i. 220
Tnyana, i. 207
Vatican©, ii. 147
Pietre Dure, at Florence, ii. 811
Pictures, Mil tonic, in the Sistine
chapel, ii' 43
■ of statuaiy in the Egina
marbles, ii. 815
Pila Horatii, on which the Rpoils of
the Curiatii were heaped, i. 202
Pilate, house of, i. 445
Pilgrims to the church of St.
Peter's, i. 419
Pincian hill, i. 66
Pine, luxuriance of the, in southern
climates, ii. 159
Pindemonte, the poet, ii. 280
Pisa, botanical gardens of. 11. 285
Piscina Publicaor public reservoir,
i. 311
Plan of the Circus Maximug, 1.
258
of the Forum, i. 179
of the walls, gates, and seven
hills of Rome. L 118
of Pompey*s theatre, i. 218
of Bome. ii. 68
of the Roman towns, ii. 391
Plautius, Lateranus. house of. i. 75
M., tomb of, ii. 820
Plays first introduced into Rome,
1. 273; cause of their introduc-
tion, ibid. ; representation of,
before the court of critics, i. 142
extempore, ii. 267
of Goldoni, ii. 265
of Alfieri, ii. 265
Plebeian ^diles^ establishment of,
1. 885 n.
Plenary indulgence, doctrine of,
i. 419, 420 w.
Pliny, house of, i. 175
Poe^, and poets of Italy, ii. 279,
281
Poets, busts of the, i. 228
Poggibonzi, i. 26
Pomoerium, the. i. 115
Pompa Circenais, i. 262
Pompeii, houses of, i. 131; climate
of. i. 134; amphitheatre of, i.
289; ruins of, ii. 345 n., 346.
847
Pompey, remarkable statue of.
ii. 114; remain? of the theatre
of, ibid. ; tomb of the family of,
ii. 360 ; mausoleum of, ii. 361 ;
halls of, ii. 360
Pons iElius. i. 334
Cestius, i. 333, now Ponte
Bartolomeo, ii. 18
Fabricius, i. 332, now Ponte
Quattro Capi, ii. 17
Janiculensis, i. 33
Milvius, i. 65
Komentanus, i. 335
Namiensis, or ruined bridge
ofNami, i. 338
Palatinus, i. 332
Sublicius, the first bridge of
wood in Rome, i. 114. 331
Triumphalis, i. 333
Pont au Gard. i. 388
Ponte Bartolomeo, ii. 18
Pontecelli, a bridge over the Anio,
ii. 833
Ponte di Catena, ii. 371
della Santissima Trinita, i.
17
del Lupo, at Tivoli, ii. 329
Lamentano, i. 385
Lucano, ii. 320
Mammolo, i. 335, ii. 318
MoUe, i. 65; the scene of the
eventful battle between Constan-
tine and Maxentius, i. 384
Quattro Capi, ii. 17
Rotto, the first stone bridge
in Rome, i. 832
Salario, remarkable tower
of, i. 386; here Hannibal pitched
his tent, i. 338
San Angelo, L 70, 334
Sisto, I 334
Digitized by
Google
ISTDBX.
421
Ponte Vecchio, i. 17
Ponzo, island of, ii. 360
Pope Pius VII., palace of, i. 88 ;
character of, i. 455; meeting
with, ii, 8, 9 ; belief of the friars
in his power to pardon sin, ii. 19 ;
presentation to the, ii. 173 ; bene-
diction of, on Easter Sunday,
ii. 204, 207
Porcia Basilica, the most ancient
remains of a Roman church, i.
191
Porcian meadows, ii. 342
Porta Asinaria, i. 125
Capena, or San Sebastiano,
i. 124
Collina, i. 124, 247
Flaminia, i. 65
Latina, L 125
Maggiore, the finest gate of
Kome, i. 123
Portese, i. 117
Pia, i. 125
Salaria, Quirinalis, or
Scelerata, i. 1 24
San Giovanni, i. 119, ii. 338
San Lorenzo, i. 121, 125
San Paola, i. 124
Santa, or holy door in St.
Peter's, i. 421
del Popolo, i. 65, 124
Portico, Doric, of the temple of
Hercules, ii. 369
of Clodius, ii 359
of Liberty, i. 166, 198, 284
of Octavia, erected by Au-
gustus, i. 282 ; library of, i. 284 ;
remains of, i. 285
Public, i. 168, 282
of St. Peter's, i. 71
Porticos of ancient Rome, 1. 282,
284
Portland vase, discovery of, ii. 67 ;
destruction of, in the British
Museum, ibid, n,
Porto, the port built by Claudius
on the Tiber, ii. 387
Poussin, landscapes of, i. 319,
ii. 88; house of, ii. 11. See
Paintings.
Prati Porcii, or Porcian meadows,
ii. 342
d* Annibale, or meadows of
Hannibal's encampment, ii. 364,
366
Praesepio, ii. 16
Precious stones, costly figures
wrought in, i. 7
Pretorian camp, remains of, i. 119;
form of, i. 121
Priests, ordination of, ii. 200
Prisons, Mamertino, of Rome, i.
160, 163; here St. Peter was
imprisoned by command of
Nero, i. 161
— _ of the Decemviri, beautiful
temple in the, i. 249
Procession in the Sistine chapel on
Palm Sunday, ii. 180
on
Easter Sunday, ii. 203, 204
Processions during the Holy week,
ii. 179, 181
Processions of knights, priests, &e.,
in Pagan times, i. 252
— — of penitents, ii. 176,
259
Praeficsa, or hired mourners, ii. 77
Proeneste, now Palestrina, ii. 371
Promethean creation of man, ii. 73
Protestant burial-ground in Rome,
i. 368
Protestantism at Rome, ii. 175
Piytaneum, at Hadrian's villa, the
residences of the judges, ii. 825
Pulchrum Littus, or beautl^l shore
of the Tiber, i. 233
Purgatory, doctrine of, i. 383
Pyramids of Caius Cestius, i. 367,
369
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Google
4&2
IITDXX.
QuBur GHBisnyA of Bwedra, her
abdication of a proiestant crown
to embrace the catholic faith, i.
409 ; reudence of, ii. 161
• Zenobia, supposed palace
of, ii. S20
Qiiirinal Hill, etymology, popola-
tion, and ancient buildings of,
i. 177; colossal statues on the
summit of, i. 177, 178
Palace, a 144
Radioofovi, mountain of, i. 41,
42 ; village and fort of, ibid.
Baphael, house of, iL 147; grave
of, i. 229 ; painting of St. John
the Baptist by, i. 5 ; first fresco
of, i. 32, 33; sibyls of, ii. 2;
frescos of, ii. 61, 57 ; last work
of, i. 229 ; arabesques of, i. 315,
316; cartoons of, ii. 47; his-
torical paintings of, ii, 47, 49;
loggie of, i. 93; ii. 56; oil
paintings, in the Vatican, com-
pared with those of Domenichino,
ii. 57; skull of, preserved in
Some, ii. 90; earliest paintings
of, ii. 128; casino of, ii. 156;
mosaic copy of the Transfigura-
tion by, ii. 310. See Paintings.
Keclusorio for females in Rome, i.
435
Becords, public, destruction and
restoration of, by Vespasian,
i. 158
Eediculus, temple of, i. 387
Belies of the martyrs, sale of,
throughout Christendom, i. 328
— — from the Holy Land, i. 397,
398, 433, 434
Belies at St. Peter's, exhibitioii of,
ii. 189
Beligicm, rites of, among the
ancients, i. 252
Remains of the circus, L 266
Besurrection of our Saviour, iL 200
Bienzi, abode of, i. 447 ; character
of, ibid.; coronation of, i. 448;
rapid fall and disgrace of, ibid.
Bipa Grande, the modem port of
Bome, i. 87, 166
Bival frescos of Guide and Dome-
nichino, ii. 6
Eiver gods, i. 76
Beads, Boman, i. 201
of Boma Vecchia, i. 391
Bocca Brune, ii. 326
di Papa, anciently the Forum
Populi, ii. 363
Bodolph Schadow, a Prussian
sculptor, works of, ii. 307
Roma Vecchia, i. 391
Boman Catholic churches and cere-
monies, compared with pagan
temples and worship, ii. 26
coins, discovery of, i. 138
Forum, erection of by
Constantino the Great, L 184;
179; excavation of, by the
English and French, i. 180, 181;
monuments of the, L 183; dis-
puted columns in, i. 187, 189;
ruins of, i. 190
houses, i. 180, 132, ii. 92,
93; ancient remains of, i. 243
palaces, general description
of, ii. 91, 94
roads, i. 201
senators, i. 159; office and
appointment of, 1. 160
society, ii. 93, 238, 241 ;
great defect in the constitution
of, ii. 247, 297
Bome, first view of, i. 61; cam-
pagna and surrounding hills,!.
62, 63; climate of, i. 64, 69;
gradual extension of the city,
i. 114, 118; when founded, 1.
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UfTDEX.
423
129; ooiiflAgrati<m of, in ^e
reign of Nero, i. 146. 147, «. ;
%€aicer*8 poetic description of,
i. 148 ; early legends of, i. 151 ;
modes of supplying the city with
water, i. 346, 849, ii. 80 ; laws of
interment, i. 256, ii. 288; desert
country around, i. 875; ancient
streets of, i. 452, 458 ; churches
of, i. 454; plan of, i. 238, ii.
68 ; botanical riches of, ii. 284
view of, from the tower of
the Capitol, i. 85; from the
dome of St. Peter's, i. 425
Homalus^ the deified founder of
Bome, i. 153 ; straw-roofed cot-
tage of, i. 129 ; citadel of, i. 86 ;
temple of, converted into a
Christian church, i. 193; alleged
translation of from earth to
heaven, i. 1 99 ; point from whence
he set out to trace the boundary
of his infont city, i. 215; statue
of, ii. 86
Ronciglione, ruins of, i. 67, 69
Hosa Taddei, a celebrated impro-
visatrice, ii. 275, 277
Bostra, Julian, position of the, in
the forum, i. 191, n.
E^stral column, ii. 85
JKostrum, site and total ruin of,
i. 78
of Cicero, ii. 224
Botondo of the Pantheon, i. 222
Buffinella, the residence of Lucien
Buonaparte, ii. 848; chapel of,
ii. 348
Bnins of the Colosseum, i. 83,
85
in the Pish market, i. 284
Sabinb Hills, first view of, i. 62
'■ ' distant view of, ii. 347
Sabine farm of Horace, ii, 387
Sacellum, i. 172
Sacred Dramas, performed in Borne,
ii. 268
• island, origin of, i, 87;
natural formation of, according
to Pliny, ii. 18 ; present occupa-
tion of, ii. 387
Sacrifices, human, i. 254
Saints, martyrdom of, 1. 321
Sala della Lavatura, where tho
Pope washes the feet of pilgrims,
ii. 186
della Tavola, ii. 187
Sale of indulgences, i. 420 n.
Sallust, circus of, i. 269 ; ruins of
the house of, i. 270
Salt marshes near Borne, ii. 386 n.
Saltarello, ii. 291
Salvator Bosa, house of, ii. 12 ;
tomb of, i. 326 ; See Paintings
San Casciano, town of, i. 25
Lorenzo Nuovo, built by Pins
VI., i. 47
— — Bovinato, picturesque
ruins of, i. 48
Sancta Sanctorum, i. 299
Santa Casa, or house of the Virgin,
i. 434, 445
Constantia, tomb of, i. 376
Croce, convent of, i. 436
Petronilla, the ancient La-
vinium , ii. 369
Bosa, visit to the convent of,
i. 54
• Sabina, thrown into the
Tiber, for her adherence to
Christianity, i. 169
— - Theresa, convent of, ii. 221
Trinita, bridge of, ii. 221
Santo Spirito, hospital of, ii. 229
Saraconi, or Sienese Palace, i. 87
Sarcophagi of the Empress Helena,
and Constantia, i. 100
Sarcophagus of Augustus, i. 370
of Lorenzo, in the anti-
chapel or Capello de' Depositi,
i. 9
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424
INDEX.
Sarcophagus of Scipio Barbatna,
i.95
-^— of ancient Grecian
scalpiiire, i. 50
Sasso Ferrato, paintings of, ii. 96 ;
See paintings.
Saturnalia, modem (The Camiyal),
ii. 252, 259
Satyrce, dramas of Etruscano rigin,
1.274
Saxa Rubra, or Grotto Rosso, the
resort of Mark Antony, i. 375
Scala Cordonata. the ascent to the
modem Piazza of the capitol, i.
76 n.
Scenery, comparatiyc, of France
and Italy, i 23
Bchola Xanthi, or office of public
notaries, i. 197
School of arms and letters, i. 172
— ^- of gladiators, i. 172
— — of St. Augustine, i. 234
of painting, i. 34
Schools of the philosophers, ii. 825
Science, depressed state of under
the papal goyemment, ii. 282,
285
Scipio Africanus, triumphal arch
of, i. 157; tomb of, i. 359;
marble bust of, ii. 69 ; house of,
ii. 103
Sculptors, Italian— Canoya, ii. 298,
300, 304 ; Thorwaldsen, ii. 305 ;
Rodolph Schadow, ii. 307, 308
Sculpture, museum of, in the Capitol,
a 70, 84
— • Egyptian, ii. 64
Grecian, ii. 85, 133
Hall of, in the Vatican,
i. 103
Scythian, commanded by Apollo
to flay Marsyas, i. 3
Secretarium Senatus, where the
writings of the senate were kept,
i. 197
Senate House, or Roman Curia,
i. 80, 188 ; dungeons of, i. 160,
161
Senator of Rome, i. 159; original
appointment of, 160
Senator's Palace, i. 75; statue of
Rome Triumphant, at the foot of
the steps to the, i. 76 ; remains
of an ancient edifice beneath, i.
158
Sepolto Vivo, conyent in wliich
nuns are imprisoned, ii. 221
Septimius Severus, little arch of,
i. 214
triumphal arch
of, i. 79
Septizonium, i. 138
Sepulchre of Christ at St. Antonio
de' Portoghesi, ii. 189
Serapis, altar of, i. 268
Serenades, ii. 264
Seryices of the Holy week, ii. 3 83,
187
Servius TuUius, murder of, by his
son-in-law, i. 174
Sette Salle, ruins of the, i. 322
Seyen Hills of Rome, i. 88, 114,
126
Sgricci, the improvisatore, remark-
able talent of, ii. 273
Shops of Rome, ii. 92, 93
or Tabemae, ancient remains
of, i. 146
Sibyl, ancient books of the, i. 142,
n. ; , temple of the, at Tivoli,
ii. 330, 331
Sicily, improved condition of so-
ciety in, ii. 379, n.
Siena, volcanic formations in tlie
vicinity of, i. 28 ; antiquity,
population, language, and society
of, i. 29, 38 ; cathedral of, i. 30 ;
pagan altar of Parian marble in
the church of, i. 32
Sienese school of painting, i. 34
Signs, language of, used by the
Italians, ii. 255
Simulacrum, a sacred stone, said to
have fallen from Heaven, i. 385
Siren's Cave at Tivoli, ii. 829
Sistine Chapel, containing the four
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IKDEX.
425
frescos of Michel Angelo, ii. 40,
45 ; services in, during the Holy
Week, ii. 182, 187
Slaughter of Roman citizens by
Sylla, Marius, and Augustus, i.
254
Slave, statue of the, overhearing
the conspiracy of Cataline, i. 2
Slaves, traffic in, i. 195
Sober habits of the Italians, ii. 295
Spectacles, Roman, corresponding
to the melo-drama of England, i.
277
St. Angelo, castle of, i. 402
— Jolm the Baptist, painting of,
by Baphael, i. 5
— Philip, baths of, i. 43
Speculum Dianae, or looking-glass
of Diana on the lake of Nemi,
ii. 367
Spoils of the Temple of Jerusalem,
i. 243; restoration of, by Jus-
tinian, ibid.
Stadium for foot-races, i. 255
Statue of the Eternal Father, i. 14
of Marcus Aurelins, i. 76
of the Nile, i. 244
Statues, Grecian, i. 2
St. Anthony, blessing of, on horses,
ii. 233,244
— Augustin, supposed school of,
i. 234 ; convent of, ii. 3
— Catherine of Siena, house of,
i. 38 ; alleged marriage of, and
correspondence with Christ, ibid.
— Cecilia, the inventor of the
organ, i. 460 ; church of, ibid.
— Dominic, founder of the Inqui-
sition, i. 169
— Ctregorj', convent of, ii. 5;
statue of, ii. 7
— John, convent of, ii. 223;
giurdens of the, ii. 224
— John Lateran, church of, i. 393
— Luke, academy of, ii. 89
— Lorenzo, martyrdom of, i. 176 ;
church of, ibid.
St. Paul, imprisonment of, i. 161 ;
martyrdom of, i. 432
*- Paul's cathedral, contrasted with
St. Peter's at Rome, i.74
— Peter, imprisonment of by Nero,
i. 161 ; dungeon of, with mira-
culous spring of water, ibid.;
pillar of, ibid ; death of, i. 405 ;
visit to the sepulchre of, i. 408,.
409
— Peter's, cathedral of, i. 69; inte-
rior and exterior view of, 72, 73 ;
colonnade of, 74 ; tomb and chain
of St. Peter in, I 406, 408 ; ge-
neral plan of, i. 407 ; tombs <^
the popes in, i. 412; ascent to
the top of, i. 423 ; view from
the dome of, 1. 425; illumina-
tions of, ii. 208, 209
— Sebastian, martyrdom of, i. 146 »
painting of the, i. 326
Statues, ^lleiy of, in the Vatican,
i. 103
Steps to the church of Ara Coeli,
ascended by Julius Caesar, ii. 16
Stone, Tiburtine, of which St.
Peter's is built, i. 74 ; properties
of, ibid.
first bridge of, i. 832
Street of tombs, 1. 356
Suburbs of Rome, i. 116, 118
Sybilline books, preservation of by
Augustus, i. 142
Tabulariuu, an ancient edifice
in which the laws and public
records were kept, i. 158; de-
struction of, in the reign of
Vespasian, ibid.
Tapestries from the cartoons of
Raphael, i. 101 ; removal of, by
the French, and recovery by tlie
present Pope, i. 102
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426
UTDXX.
Tapesizy chAmbera in the Yatican,
ilOl
TanntellA, origin of the dance, ii.
291
Taip«ian rock, origin of the name,
i. 151; downifhich malefactors
were thrown, i. 152; present
elevation of, i. 153; Milton's
description of, ibid.
Tasso, tomb of, ii. 24
Taremella, town of, i. 25
Telemaehas, an Asiatic monk, who
died a martyr to the cause of
humanity, i. 801
Tempo, vale of, ii 323
Temple of Antoninus and Faustina,
description and plan of^ i. 183
237
of Apollo, built by Augus-
tus after the battle of Actium, i.
141, 202; ii. 326
of Antoninus Pius, i. 218
of -fflsculapius, ii. 18
of Bacchus, i. 877
— — — of Bellona, i. 251 ; priests
of, ibid.
of the Bona Dea, i. 167
of Canopus, the Egyptian
Neptune, ii. 325
of the goddess Camse, i.
172
of Claudius, i. 172; in
Britain, i. 213
• of Castor and Pollux, situ-
ation and antiquity of, i 189;
remains of, ii. 370
• of Concord, in the Forum,
i. 77, 185 ; Ionic portico of, ibid.
of the Cough, ii. 333 n.
of Diana, site of the, i. 167
ofEgina, ii. 315
of the Faun, ii. 320
of Fortune, I 81, 185
of Fortuna Muliebris, or
Fortune of women, built in com
memoration of Coriolanus spar-
ing Rome at the entreaties of
his wife and mother, i. 389
Temple of Hercules^ L 280; at
Coii» ii 369
of Hope, i. 250 ; roiiffi of
the, i 379
of Isis, i. 166
of Janus, i. 260 n
— — of Juno Honeta, ©r the ^
mint, i. 153
of Juno Lanuvina, mins of
the, u. 86d
Begina, i. 167
Sospita, i. 250
i 282
- of Juno in the fish-maiket.
236
372
.Virilis,i232, 235,
at Prsdneste, ii.
• of Julius Csesar, i 195, 196
of Jupiter Capitolinus, i.
75; statue of, i. 154
Feretrius^ i.
151 ; the most ancient temple
in Bome, i 154
- of Jupiter Latialis, i. 60 ;
convent of Friore on the site of,
view from, ii. 364
■ Optimus Maxi-
mus, i. 200
- of Jupitor Stator, the first
temple vowed to the gods in
Rome, i. 80, 185
Tonans, i 79;
excavation of by the French, i.
180; disputed columns of, i.
186; ruins of, i 192
of Liberty, i. 166
of Marcus Aurelius, i. 66
of Mars, erected by Au-
gustus, i 197, 252
of Minerva, i. 206
• Medica, i. 245 ;
architecture of, i. 247
of the Muses, i. 386
of Neptune, i. 92
of Nerva, i. 88
- of the Palatine Apollo, i
141
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INPSX.
427
Temple of Pallas, i. 207
of Peace,!. 81, 239 ; destruc-
tion and re-erection of, i. 240;
cause of its original erection,
i.243
— : of Piety, erected in honour
of the daughter who saved the
life of her father, i. 249
- of Rome, remains of, i. 75 ;
ruins of, i. 450
of St Urban, i. 386
- of Romulus and Remus, L
86 ; present occupation of, i. 238
Quirinus, i.
88, 114, 177
of Saturn, i. 80, 196
— of the seven wise men of
Greece, it 323
Sibyl, at Tiroli, ii.
330, 331
• Sun, ii. 102
270
■ of Venus Erycina, L 247,
Genetrix, i. 248
and Diana, in
the Yale of Tempe, ii. 324
■ and Rome, i. 82;
one of the most splendid of
Hadrian's works, i. 244
in the Circus
Mazimus, i. 258
and Cupid, i.
247; inscription on the statue
of the goddess, i. 247 n.
of Vesta, disputed situa-
tion of, i. 132, 230, 232, 270, ii.
331
- of Virtue and Honour, i.
269, 386
■ of the god Rediculus : ori-
gin of the name, i. 387
— of the goddess Voltumna,
magnitude and magnificence of,
i. 49
Temples on the Palatine Hill,
i. 143
Tepidarium of the Baths, i. 324
Terminal figures, ii. 167
Terracina, town of, the resort of
banditti, ii. 378, 379
Terra-cotta, Etruscan and Grecian
vases of, i. 6 ; urns of, suppoaed
to be antediluvian, ii. 361
Theatre Alberto, ii. 257
of C. Balbus, i. 280
Grecian, i. 273, 275
of Marcellus, i. 249; re-
mains of, i. 280
- Marine, in Hadrian's villa.
ii. 823
of Pompey, i. 218
— — - of Scaurus, i. 276
in the convent of S. Syl-
vestro, ii. 214
of Jja Valle, ii. 264
Theatres, Roman, i. 273, 275 ; first
built by Pompey, i. 276; plan
of, i. 278
existing state of, in
Rome, ii. 264, 269
Theatrical Presepio, or exhibition
of the Virgin and infant Jesus
at the church of Ara Coeli, ii. 16
Thermae, or baths of the Romans,
1. 301, 311 ; total destruction of,
i. 331
Thermae of Consiantine, remains
of, in the Colonna gardens, i.
330
ancient, at Albano, ii. 360
of Diocletian, i. 323
of Nero, i. 64, 120, 371
of Titus, i. 311 ; paint-
ings in, i. 316; temperature of,
i. 318 ; remains of one especially
used by the Emperors, ibid. ;
ruins of, i. 319
Trajanse, i. 3?3
Thetis, statue of, now at Paris,
ii. 171
Thorwaldsen, the first sculptor in
rilievo of modern times, ii. 146;
works of, ii. 304, 306
Tiber, first view of, i. 64 ; sacred
island of, i. 87; inundation of
the, i. 274
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428
IXDEX.
Tiberius^ baths of, i. 141 ; house of,
i. 136, 146; triumphal arch of^ i.
197
Tibur, ii. 332 ; antiquity of, ibid.
Tiburtine stone, of which St. Peter's
is built, i. 74
Time, mode of reckoning, in the
south of Italy, ii. 9 n.
Titian, picture of the Graces, by,
* ii. 125, 126 ; sacred and profane
Love, by, ibid. See Paintings,
Titus, baths of, i. 311; triumphal
arch of, i. 81, 341
Tiyoli, i. 89; ii. 828 ; cascades of,
ii. 329, 330; beautiful scenery of,
ii. 339; temple of the Sibyl at,
ii. 330; its projected removal, ii.
331
Tomb of AscaniuB, ii. 360, 363
< of the Archdukes, in the
cathedral of Florence, i. 9
of Cecilia Metella, the most
beautiful sepulchral monument
in the world, i. 365, 366
— — of the Claudian family, i. 358
of Clement XII , i. 395
■ of Cosmo de* Medici, i. 11
Dante, i. 16
of the Empress Helena, i. 379
of the Horatii and Curiatii,
ii. 360, 663
of Lucullus, ii. 348
M. Plautius and his family,
ii. 320
of the Magnilla family, i. 366
of Michael Angelo, i. 12
— ■ — of Nero, i. 64
of Ovid, i. 374
of Paul III., i. 410
Pompey, ii. 360
of ^alvator Rosa, i. 326
of Santa Constantia, i. 376
of the Scipios, recent dis-
covery of, i. 359 ; reputed tomb
of the, i, 364
of the Servilia family, i. 365
of the Stuart ftimily, ii. 349
of St. Peter, i. 72, 406
Tomb of Tasso, ii. 24
-— TuUia, ii. 360
Urban VIII., in SL Peter's,
1.41
of Vibius Marios, at Siena, L
86
Tombs of the Popes in St. Peter's,
i. 411
of the Eomans, i. 356, 35S
form and arrangement of, i. 363:
inscription on one of the few per-
mitted within the city, i. 357 n.
streets of i. 356
Torre di Quinto, i. 372
Torso, the favourite study of
Michael Angelo, i. 94; criticisms
on the, by Winkelman, i. 94 n.
Totila, destruction of Aurelian's
walls by, i. 118 ; entry of, into
Home, i. 125; threatened de-
struction of the city by, ibid. ;
bridge destroyed by, i. 337
Tower of Cecilia Metella, i. 86
' of the Capitol, view of Eome
from, i. 85
on the Ponte Lucano, ii. 320
of Nero, i. 45
Trajan, forum of, i. 207; famous
equestrian statue of, i, 210;
triumphal arch of, i. 211 ; bark
of, discovered in the Lake of
Nemi, ii. 367 : column of, i. 9^2,
211, ii. 371
Trastevere, that part of Rome be-
yond the Tiber, ii. 19; insalu-
brious climate of, ii. 22 ; church
of Santa Maria in, ii. 23
Travertine stone, used in Italian
buildings, i. 74
Tre Ore, or " three hours of agony,"
service of the, ii. 191, 192
Trevi, fountains of, ii. 29
Tribunal named the Sessorium, i.
247
Tribune, gallery of, paintings in
the, i. 6.
in the Sistine chapel, ii.
183
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INDEX.
429
Trinity de' Monti, the favourite
residence of men of genius, ii. 12;
Tiew of the illumination of St.
Peter's from, ii. 209
Triumphal Way, ii. 364
Trophies of Marius, on the Gapito-
line Hill, i. 156 ; ruins of the,
ii. 161
True Cross, portion of the, exhi-
bited in the church of Santa
Croce, i. 433 ; discoyery of, at
Jemsalem, ibid.; exhibition of
the, at St. Peter's, during the
Holy Week, ii. 189
Tullia, tomb of, ii. 360
Tallian Wall, i. 119
or Mamertine Prisons, i.
160
TuUus Hostilius, extension of Borne
by, i. 114
Tascnlum, site of, ii. 343; exca-
vated ruins of, ii. 345
Twins, royal, nurtured by a wolf,
i. 86; Etruscan statue of, i. 193;
dedication of, 1 192
U.
Ulpian library.
Unfinished statues by Michel
Angelo, i. 10
Unique Grecian sculpture, i. 5, 34
Urban VIII., tomb of, i. 411
V.
Val Aricia, ii. 368
Vale of Tempe, ii. 828
Murcia, or Myrtia, i. 259
Vallombrosa, yineyards and olive-
groves of, i. 21, 22
Vase, Portland, ii. 67
Vases, ancient and modem, i. 7
in the gallery of the Vatican,
ii. 70
Vases, Antediluvian, ii. 361
Vatican, description of, i. 91, 96 ;
statues of heroes, emperors, and
gods in the, i. 93; octagonal
court of, i. 95 ; hall of animals
in the, i. 96; origin of the name,
i. 98 ; geographical galleries of,
i. 101 ; gallery of statues, i. 108;
library of, ii. 33, 88 ; loggie of
the, ii. 59 ; museum of, ii. 61 ;
picture-gallery of, i. 103
Vegetation, luxuriance of, in the
southern climates, i. 21
Veii, site of the ancient city of,
i. 373 ; siege of, ii. 355
Veil, ceremony of taking, ii. 215,
218
Velabrum, the, i. 192, 215
Velletri, reputed birthplace of
Augustus, ii. 369; now the
resort of robbers, ii. 374
Venetian school of painting, ii
39, n ; music of, ii. 261
Venus, Cnidian, of Praxiteles, de-
scription of, by Pliny, i. 9
of Canova, i. 9, ii. 301
di Medicis, description of,
i. 1,2
■of Titian, i. 5
temples of, i. 244, 247, 252
Vesta, temple and sacred grove of,
i. 192
Vestal virgins, first institution of,
by Numa, i. 192
■ buried alive, i. 271 ;
Vesuvio, the generic name for a
volcano in Italy, i. 43
Vesuvius, eruptions of, ii. 346, n.
place of interment, i. 124
Vetturino travelling, i. 24
Via Appia, i. 146, ii. 868, 384
Argentina, i. 364
Cassia, i. 53, 64
Crucis, i. 143
Flaminia, i. 64
— Latina, the modern road fo
Prascati, i. 389 ; remains of an-
tiquity on the, i. 390
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430
iin>xx.
Via Komeataiut, 1 122, 335
Nova, i 201
OstensiB, ii. 386
Sacra, origin of the term. i. 87;
description of, i. 200
Triumphalia, i. 82 ; ii. 868
Valeria, i. 864
Yibing Marians, tomb of, i. 64
Yico, lake of, i. 57
de Come\j, i 79
Yicns Jugarius, L 201
TuBcoB, i. 201, f>.
View of Florence, i. 12
of Rome, L 61, 85, 147, 148,
425
Villa Adrianay inyalnable stataes
found in, i. 98
— — Aldobmndini, ii. 160, 841
»— Albani, ii. 165; mnseum of,
ibid. ; description of, ii. 166
Altieri, ii. 161
of Archias, the poet, il 386
Barberini, ii. 359 ; view from
the terrace of, ibid.
of Catullus, ii. 835
— of Cicero, ii. 360
of Ciodius, iL 359; portico
of, ibid.
of Domitian, scattered
yestiges of, ii. 359
d'Este. erected by Cardinal
Hippolito d'Este, ii. 336
of Qabinius, ruins of the, ii.
345
— Giraud, in Trastcvere, remark-
able Casino of, ii. 162
of Horace, ii. 335
— of Hadrian, ii. 321 ; ruins of,
ii. 322, 326; destruction of,
ii. 327
Lanti, ii. 162
of Lepidus, ii. 336
— of Liyia, i. 874
Ludovisi, iL 149; statues and
paintings of, ii. 150, 153
Hadama, on Monte Mario,
li. 164
— Magnani or Spada, L 144
Villa Masaimi, i. 828
Mattel, ii. 162
of Mecsenas, ii. 884
Medicis, on the Pineian
Hill, ii. 162
MondrBgone> ii. 342; xiuig-
n|ficent avenues of the, ibid.
— Palombara, ii. 161
— Pamfili,on Mount Janiculum,
ii. 162
of Piso, ii 386
— of Pliny the younger, ii. 898
Roman, rooms in a, i. 889
Tusculan, of Cicero, i. 89;
mosaics brought from, i. 100;
site of the, iL 343, 350
of Pompey, ii. 359 ; remains
of, ii. 360
— Gt Propertius, ii. 386
of Quintilius Varus, iL 835
of Vopiscus, iL 836, n.
Villas of Modem Rome, ii. 156
Viminal Hill, present uncertainty
of its locality, L 176 ; etymology
of, i. 77
Vines and vineyards of Italy, L 23;
mode of cultivating, in Madeira,
ibid.
Vintage feast, in Trastevere, iL 22
Virbius, grove of, iL 867
Virgil, manuscript copy of, in the
libraiy of Milan, L 86 ; house of,
175
Virgin Mary, preference given to,
as an object of worship in Italian
churches, L 15; miraculous
image of, L 25; portrait of,
painted by St. Luke, LI 68; house
of, L 434, 435
Virglnius, site of the murder of
Virginia by, L 199
Viterbo, this town contains 28
convents, i. 58 ; churches o^ i.
54, 55
battle of, L 66
mountains of, thedanical
Ciminus, i. 57
Vivarium, in which wild beasts mce
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INDEX.
431
kept for exhibition in the Colos-
seum, i. 297
Volcanos, i. 28, ii. 347, 366, 367
Volscian Hills, extent of the, ii.
378
YoMnium. site of, i. 48, 50
Vulcan, altar of, i. 199; here blood
rained from heaven for 2 days,
ibid.
W.
Walls of Aurelian, i. 116, 118
Walls of the city, and Praetorian
camp, i. 121
Cyclopean, remains of, at
Cora, ii. 370; peculiar formation
of, ii 371
at Palestrina,
ii. 371
of the palace of the CsBsars,
built of brick, i. 242; durability
of, i. 243
of Rome, i. 113, 115,119;
ancient buildings comprised in
them, i. 120, 122 ; vestiges of
antiquity found in the, i. 119
of Republican Rome, i. 271
Walls of Servius TuUius, i. 119
271
Waterloo Bridge, Canova*s opinion
of, i. 339, w.
Whetter, Remouleur or Arrotino,
i. 2, 4 ; Livy's account of the
statue, i. 3
Wild beasts for the Amphitheatre,
fed with criminals, i. 291 ; com-
bats of, ibid. ; dens for, i. 297
-^- Boars in the vicinity of
Rome, ii. 296
Windows, adaptation of to Gothic
architecture, not to Grecian, i.
73; disputed existence of in
Roman houses, i. 131, 132,
133, n.
Wolf and Twins, bronze statue of,
i. 193 ; ii. 86
Wool, sacred, manufactured into
robes for the Archbishops, ii. 234
Works in precious stones, i. 7
Wrestlers, the famous group of, in
the Florentine Gallery, i. 4
Xystum, or place for wrestling, i.
325
Zelum, or asylum for outlaws, i.
157
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DON QUIXOTE, PICTORIAL EDITION. Translated by Jakvis, car«fUlly revised.
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EOYIT AMD THE' PYRAMIDS.-COL. VYSES^ GREAT WORK ON THE
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HUMPHREY'S COINS OF ENGLAND, a Sketch of the progreea of the English i
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ing specimens, illumiuated in gold, silver, and copper, square Svo, neatly decorated binding, IS*.
"Ky"^^E.XAMPLES OF TUDOR ARCHITECTURE ADAPTED TO MODERN
HABITATIONS. Royal 4to, S7 PUtes (pub. at 2/. 2t.), half morocco 1/. 4«.
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»*'S'''^.P^1S'!!* ^O" J^i^T^ lr9P^^^f GAMEKEEPERS- COTTAGES, ETC.
Aojral 4to, 13 Platei ( pau. at II. It. ), half morocoo, lU. IM 1
HUNTS ARCHITETTURA CAMPESTRE; OR, DESIGNS FOR LODGES, OAR-
DBNERS' HOUSES, etc. IM THE ITALIAN STYLE. » Plates, royal 4to (pub. it
U. 1«.), halfmorooco, 14s. 1827
ILLUMINATED BOOK OF CHRISTMAS CAROLS, aqoan Sro. 14 Boidcn inoinlnated
iB Gold and Coloun, and 4 beaatiful Minlatuni, richly OmauMBltd Binding (pub. at U. 5«. ).
15«. 1846
ILLUMINATED BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK, By Mm. Owxk. withaHistoiT oTKeedle.
work, by the Couktxss of Wiliok, Colonred Plates, post syo (pob. at Ut.), gilt cloth, ite. 1847
ILLUMINATED CALENDAR FOR 1850. Copied from a celebrated If issal known as the
*' Hoars " of the Duke of Anjou, Imperial 8to, 36 exquisite Miniatures and Borders, in gold and
colours. Ornamented Binding (pub. at 2/. 2t.}, 15«.
ILLUSTRATED FLY-FISHER'S TEXT BOOK. A Complete Guide to the Science of Trent,
and Salmon Fishing. By Thbophxlub Sovth. Gent. (Ed. Chittt, Babjustsr). With
23 beautidt] Engravings on Steel, alter Paintings by Coopxx, NxwiOK, Fxeldiko, Lee, and
others. 8T0 (pub. at U. lit. 6d,), cloth, gilt, lOt. 6d. IMS
ITALIAN SCHOOL OF DESIGN. Consisting of too Plates, chiefly engraTcd by Bakto-
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CHixo, AmriBALB, LvBOVico, and Agostivo Cakacci, Pietro da Cobtoha, Carlo Ma-
3LATTI, and others, in the Collection of Her Majesty. Imperial 4to (pub. at 1(0. 10*.), half mo-
roeeo, gilt edges, it. it. 1812
JAMES' (G. P. R.) BOOK OF THE PASSIONS, royal 8yo, Uhistrated with 16 splendid
Line EngraTinn, after drawii^eby Edward Courbould STSrHAVoFr Chalov, Kehmt
MsAoows, and Jevkixs; engraved under the superintendence of Charles Heath. New
and iminroved edition (Jvsi pobliahedj, elegant ia gilt cloth, gilt edges (pub. at ll. lu. 6cf.),
IS*.
JAMESON'S BEAUTIES OF THE COURT OF CHARLES THE SECOND. ItoU.
Inpl. 8vo, n beautlAil Portndti (pub. at U. Sfc), cloth, U. U. 1838^
JOHNSON'S SPORTSMAN'S CYCLOPEDIA ofthe Science and Practice of the Field, the
Turf, and the Sod, or operations of the Chase, the Course, and the Stream, ih one very thick
Tol. Svo, illustrated with upwards of 50 Steel Engravings, after Coopbr, Ward, Havcock, and
others (pub. at U.1U. 6d.), eloth, 15t.
KMIGHTS (HENRY GALLY). ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF ITALY,
FROM THE TIME OF CONSTAMTINE TO THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY. With an
Introduction and Text. Imperial Ibllo. First Series, containing 49 beautiful and highly Inte-
resting Views of Ecclesiastical Buildings in Italy, several of which are expensively iliuminated
In gold and colours, half-bound morocco, M. b$. 1843
g Views of Eccle-
tive Letter-press.
1844
Second and Concluding Series, containing 41 beantlfhland highbr-interesting V
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Imperial fblio, half-bound morocco, 51. 5«.
KNIGHTS (HENRY GALLY) SARACENIC AND NORMAN REMAINS. ToUlns*
trate the Normans In Sicily. Imperial folio. SO large Engravings, consisting of Picturesque
Views, Afchiteetural Remains, Interiors and Kxterlon of Buildings, with Deserlptive Letter*
press. Coloured like Drawings, half-bound morocco, U. St. 1840
But very few copies are now first executed in this expensive manner.
KNIGHTS PICTORIAL LONDON. 6 voU. bound in s thick handsome rolt. imperial Svo,
illustrated by 650 Wood Engravings (pub. at ZU 3«.), cloth, gUt, II. 18«. 1841-44
LONDON.-WILKINSON'S LONDINA ILLUSTRATA ; OR, GRAPHIC AND
HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS of the most Interesting and Curious Architectural
Monumente of the City and Suburbs of Loadon and Westminster, e.y.. Monasteries, Churches,
Charlteble Foundations, Palaces, Halls, Courte, Processions, Places of early Amusements,
Theatres, and Old Houses. 2 vols, imperial 4to, containing 207 Copper-plate Engravings, with
Historical and Descriptive Letter-press (pub. at 761. St.), half-bound morocco, 6L &§. 1819 -25
LOUDON'S EDITION OF REPTON ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND
LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE. New Edition, 350 Wood Cute, Portrait, thick 8T0, cloth
lettered (pub. at li. 10«.), 15«.
LVSON'S ENVIRONS OF LONDON ; being an Histerieal Account of the Towns, Villages
and Hamletolnthe Counties of Surrey, Kent, Essex, Herte, and Middlesex, 5 Tols.4te, FUtes
(pub. at 101. 10s.), cloth, 21. 10«.
The same, large paper, 5 vols, royal 4to (pub. at 15/. 15t.), cloth, 3/. U.
MACGREGOR'S PROGRESS OF AMERICA FROM THE DISCOVERY BY
COLUMBUS, to the year 1848, comprising Ite History and StstiaUcs, 2 remarkably thick
voliunes, imperial Svo. cloth lettered (pub. at 4/. I4«.6tf.),l<.il«.6<(. 1847
MARTIN'S CIVIL COSTUME OF ENGLAND, ftt)m the Conquest to the PteientPerio*.
ftpm Tapestry, MSS. fte. ^yal 4m 61 PUtes, l>eautiAiUy lUumluated In Gold and Colours,
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S vTineai iBquiry loio Ansieat Armour mm n cswicu in amcvp«, dim pawuviuMrij in sngHuia,
from tbc Nornuut Conquest to the Reign of Charles II, with a Oiossknr, etc. by Sir SiLitCBi.
RusM Mbtbick, LL.O., F.8.A., etc., new aid greatly improvod EditioQ, cocrectcil and en-
l*qie4 ilirougbout b* the Author hltoaelt; with the aasUtaace of Ufnxj and AatiqaBTian
Frlenda (Albbkt way, etc.)t 3 vola. Imperial 4to, lllustratad by more than 100 Plates,
■plendiilly Illuminated, mostly In gold ana silver, exhibiting some of the finest Specimens
extotkig in England; alio a new Plate of the TourMmMife of Locka and K^f (jfah» ai 3tU.U
hair-bound morocco, gUt edges, 191. lOt. Uii
Six Walter Scon Justly descrtbei title eottectton u -twB XMCOurxMUMtM ammovxx."
..JSiUnburgk Rnitw.
MEYRICK'S DESCRIPTION OF ANCIENT ARMS AND ARMOUR, in the Collee-
tlon of Oeodrlch Court, IM Bngrarlngs by Jos. Skbltov, 2 toU. folio (pab. at lU. lU.),
half nsoroeeo, top edgea gilt, 4L lU. 6d.
MILLINGEN'S ANCIENT UNEDITED MONUMENTS: eomprislng Painted Greek
Vases, SUtues, Busta, Baa-Reliefs, and other Remains of Oreciaa ArL 62 lane and beaiitifUl
Engravings, mostly coloured, with Letler^ress DeicriptioMU fanpeiitl4tB mib. at SL Bs.).
half morocco, iL lit. td. 1822
MOSES' ANTIQUE VASES, CANDELABRA, LAMPS. TRIPODS, PATERi€,
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other Ornaments, 170 Plaus, several of irUch are eolooxed, vtth Lettn^press, by aofi, small
tvo ( pub. at at. St.), cloth, it. it. I8i«
MURPHY'S ARABIAN ANTIQUITIES OF SPAIN; representing, in lOO Tery highly
flniahed line Engrsvings, by Lx Kxox, Fiwdbk, LxyDSXEX, O. Cooks, &e., the most
remarkable Remains of the Architecture, Sculpture, Paiatiogs, and Mosaics of the Spanish
MURPHY'S ANOIEIfrCHUilOH OF BATALH^ IN PQRTUQAU Piu«, Ete-
vattons. Sections, and Views of Uie; with its History and Description, and sn Introductory
Discourse on OOTHIC ARCHITECTURE, imperial fblio, 37 fine Copper Plates, engraved
by Lo wjiT (pub. at 4U. fi«.) , half morocco, U» u» WS
NAPOLEON GALLERY; Or IIlustntiQns of the U(h asd Times of the Bmperark with 99
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NttOLAS'S (SIR HAMtlS) HISTORY OF THE ORDERS OF KNIGHTHOOD
aw THE B1UTI8U EMPIRE; with an Acooant of the Medals, Ctos«ca,and Clasps which
have bees conferred for Naval a»d Military Services : together with a History of the Order of
the Onelplis of Hanover. 4 vols. Imperlsl 4to, splendidly printed snd Ulttstratcd by numerous
flae Woodcuts of Badges, Crosses, Collars, Stars, Medals, Ribbands, Clasps, etc. and msny
large Ptates, illuminated In gold and caiours, including fuU* length Portrarts of Queea Vlc-
tom. Prbice Albert, the King of Hanover, and the Dukes of Cambridge and Sussex. (Pub.
at Ui 14«.), cloth, with morocco backs, it. 15«. 6rf. •4»* Con^tiete to 1847
• the same, wldi the PUttt .rhShly cotovied 'but not ISviniiiated* xnd wdfttHt the
extre portraits, 4 vols, royal 4to. clotii, 8^. I0fl> M.
Sir ITaRle Nicolaa has produced the-flnt comprefaenaive Hleter;j'of the BtilMi (^ersof
Knighthood: and it Is one (fftKe mott etm^ntely prepmte«l tntl ipkndidlp prmted 'workt th*i ever
* iteued from the preit. The Author appears to ns to have neglected no sources of Informstton,
snd to have exnausted them, as fbr as regards the general scope and purpose of the inquiry.
The Ghwphleal IHustratioas are such as Moeme a work of thiaeharacter upon such a auhieot;
at, o fcourse, a lavish cost. The reseuniea of the recently re«l«ed art of wood-engsavhagbave
been combined with the new art of printing in colours, so as to produce a rich effect, almost
rivslling -that of the monastic illumtnaaons. Snek n b9ok it ture ^ « jilesf m -eneiy great- Hbrary.
It contains matter ealculatcd to interest extensive classes of xeadeie, axd w«<hDpe by our
specimw to excite their corlosity."— ^MNtrfy Anrirw.
NICHOLSON'S ARCHITEOTURC: ITS PRlNQtPLES AND PRACTIC& 2lf
Plates by LowftK, new edttloB, reviled by Joe. Owux, Bm., one Yohuuey r^Nl 8vo,
l^llt.6d. 1849
For elassiea] Architecture, the text book of the Profession, the most uaeftil 0<tiide to the
Student, and the best Compendium for the Amsteur. An emtuent Architect has declared
it to be '* not only the most usefUl book of the kind ever published, butabtoltttely Indlipen-
aable to the Student."
PICTORIAL HISTORY OF GERMANY DURIfiQ THE RCIGN OF FREDERICK
THE GREAT, including a complete History of the Seven Years' War. By Fiusvcis
KcoLxa. Illustrated by Ajmuh MBirBsx.. iLtiai «v>tf, with ahov* fi«ft WoedWU (pub. at
ICSf.), cloth gUt,12«. laiS
PICTORIAL UALLERY OP RACE'HORSCS. Contalnlog Poftnite of all the Wisning
Horses of the Derby, Oaks, and Su Leger Stakes during the laatTMrteea Yeant, aad a His-
tory of the principal Operations of the Turf. By Wilpxakb (Qee. Tatteraall, EsoJ. Royal
ivo, containing 9ft beautiftil Engravings of Horses, sfler Pwtures by Coopbr, fftewnw,
Hamcocx, Af.KBii, Jte. Also fttll-leng^ characteristie Porfraiu of eeiebtated Uvlac BMrte-
nen (''Creeks of the Dav"), by Sxtxoux (p>*b. at U. S«.), scarlet cle*h, gilt, II. 1^
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PiCTURESqUE TOUR OF THE RIVER THAMES, in Ita WMton Coarw, ineluilte
£ articular PeBcriptions of Richmond, Windsor, and Hampton Court. By Joliir Pishsk
[VJUU.T. Illustrated V upwards of 100 very liigbly-fi niched Wood EngraTiugs by Orriv
Smith. Bkakbton, Landblls, Limton, aod «ther eminent artista; to which ai« add«4
eeveral beautlfal Copper and Steel Plate BnmTings by Cooks and others. Oo« luge kand-
Kome volume, royal 8vo (pub. at R 5a.\ flit cloth, 10«. 6d. IMi
The most bMutifttl volume of Topographical Lignegraphs ever pvodueed.
PINELU'S ETCHINQS OF ITAUAN MANNERS AND COSTUME, Includtng hb
Carnival, Banditti, ftc, 37 Plates, ImpeKial 4to, haIf>bound morooeo, Ite. iioMe, IMt
PRICE (SIR UVEDALE) ON THE PICTURESQUE in Scenery and Landscape Garden,
ing, vlth an Essay on the Origin of Taste, and much additional matter. By Sir Thomas
Dick Laudkk, Bart. 8vo, with 60 beautuUl Wood Bngnvings by Movtaav Stamlbt
(pub. at !(. 1«.), gilt eloth, 12*. IMf
PUGIN'S GLOSSARY OF ECCLESIASTICAL ORNAMENT AND COSTUME;
setting forth the Origin, UUtory, and Slmlflcatlon of the various Emblems, I>evlees, and Sym.
bolical Colours, peculiar to Cbilatlan Designs of the Middle Agas. Illustrated by nearly M
Plates, splendidly printed In gold and colours. Boyal 4to, half moroceo eadra, top edges gilt,
7t7«.
PUGIN'S ORNAMENTAL TIMBER GABLES, selected from Andant Examples In
England and Normandy. Boyal 4to, ao Plates, cloth, II. U. 1830
PUGIN'S EXAMPLES OF GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE, selected from Ancient
Edifices In England; consisting of Plans, Elevations, Sections, and Parte at large, with Histo-
rical and DescriptlTe letter-press, Illustrated by 225 Engravings by Lx Kaox. 8 vols. 4te
(pub. at 12A 12*.), cloth, 71. 17«. td. Ulg
PUGIN'S GOTHIC ORNAMENTS. 90 fine Plate*, drawn on Stone by J. D. Hammho and
others. Boyal 4to, half morocco, 3i. 3*. 1844
MUCIN'S NEW WORK ON FLORIATED ORNAMENT, with so plates, splendidly
printed in Gold and Colonn, royal 4to, elegantly bound la cloth, with rich gold ornamantik
3L3».
RADCLIFFE'S NOBLE SCIENCE OF FOX-HUNTING, for the use of Sportemen, royal
8vo., nearly 40 beautiful Wood Cute of Hunting, Hounds, ftc (pub. at 1/. 8<.), Cloth gilt,
10*. id. lot
RETZSCH'S OUTUNES TO SCHILLER'S "FIGHT WITH THE DRAGON,"
Boyal 4to., eontelning 16 Plates, Bngraved by Mosxa, stllT covers, 7t. 6d.
RETZSCH'S ILLUSTRATIONS TO SCHfLLER'S ^FRIDOLIN," Boyal 4to., contain.
Ing 8 Piatea, Engraved by Moses, stiff covers, 4«. 6d.
REYNOLDS' (SIR JOSHUA^ GRAPHIC WORKS, mo beautlftal EnaraVioa (com.
prising nearly 400 subjecte) after thia deligbtftal painter, engraved on Steel by 8. W. Baynolda.
3 vols, folio (pub. at 36^.), half bound morocco, gilt edges, 12/. 12«.
REYNOLDS' (SIR JOSHUA) LITERARY WORKS. Comprising his Discourses,
delivered at the Boyal Academy, on the Theory and Practice of Painting; his Journey te
zanders and Holland, with Criticisms on Pictures; Du Fresnov's Art of Painting, with Notes
xe which is preflxed, a Memoir of the Author, with Bemarks illustrative of his Principles and
>i8etice, by Bbxckxt. New Edition. 2 vols. fcap. 8vo, with Portrait (pub. at 18i.), gitt
xjoth, lot. 1846
**Hls admirable Dlscouzees contain such a body of Just criticism, clothed la such perspicnousi
elegant, and nervous lai^uage, that it is no exaggerated panegyric to assert, that tliey will last
as long as the English tongue, and contribute, not less Uian the productions of his pencil, to
render his name ImmortaL*'— iVbrtAeote.
ROBINSON'S RURAL ARCHITECTURE; being a Series of Designs for Ornamental
Cotteges, in 96 Plates, with Estimates. Fonxth, greatly improved. Edition. Boyal 4to (pub.
at 4/. 4i.), half morocco, 2/. 6«.
ROBINSON'S NEW SERIES OF ORNAMENTAL COTTAGES AND VILLAS.
86 Plates by H ardivo and Allom. Boyal 4to, half morocco, 2^ 2s.
ROBINSON'S ORNAMENTAL VILLAS^ MPlataa(pub.«t4i.4s.),ha]fmon>coo,tLU.
ROBINSON'S FARM BUILDINGS. 66 Plates (pub. at2<.3s.), half noiocco,]/. lis. 64.
ROBINSON'S LODGES AND PARK ENTRANCES. 4S Plates (pnb. at St Ss.), half
morocco, iL 11<. 6d.
ROBINSON'S VILLAGE ARCHITECTURE. Fourth Xditkm. wMh addlttonal Plate. «1
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RUOINQ'8 ANNALS OF THE COINAGE OF GREAT BRITAIN AND ITS
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SHAKSPEARE PORTFOLIO; a 8«riM oTM Okafhic iLLUsnATiovs, alter Deilgm br
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SHAW AND BRIDOENS' DESIGNS FOR FURN ITURE, with Candelabra and laHerior
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SILVESTRE^ UNIVERSAL PALEOGRAPHY, or Facafanfles of tba writings of ererr
aae, taken from the most authentic Missals and other inttreetlag Manuscripts existiag in the
libraries of France, Italy, Germany, and England. By M.Slfrestre, eoauining upwards of
~~0 large and most baautifully executed fac-stmiies, on Copper and Stone, most richly lilumi-
itad in the finest style of art, 2 vols, atlas folio, half morocco extra, gilt edges, 3U. lOa.
ac, and Cham-
Tha Historical and Descriptive Lfttei^press by Charapnliion, Figea
. With additions and corrMUoiu by str Frederick Madden, a v<
polUon, jun. With additions and corrtctioiu by Str Frederick Madden, a vol*, royal Svo,
etoCh, \U l«t. 1S50
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of
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SMITH'S ANCIENT COSTUME OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. From
the 7th to the ICth Centnnr, with Historical Illustrations, foUo, with «a coloured plates ttlo-
minated with gold and sUvsr, and highly flniahed (pub. at lOL I0t.j half bound, morocco,
extra, gUt edges, s;. Vis. ftd.
SPORTSMAN'S REPOSITORY: comprising a Series of highly llnisbed Line En«rsvlng«,
reprasenting Uie Horse and the Dog, in all their varieties, by the celebrated engraver JoHX
Scott, from original paintings by Reinagle, Gilpin, Stubbs, Cooper, and Landseer, arooafr-
panied by n comprehensive Description by the Author of the <* BriUsh Field Sports," 4to, with
37 large Couper riaUs, and nomaroua Wood Cuts by Baractt and others (pub. at 3/. 12«. (xL),
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STOREfff CATHEDRAL ANTIQUITIES OF ENGLAND AND WALES. 4 vols.
•to., wltti 3A6 engravings (pub. at 7*. iOs.), half morocco, 31. 12. 6 J.
STOTHARD'S MONUMENTAL EFFIGIES OF GREAT BRITAIN ur beautBUHy
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gold and colours, with Historical DescripUons and Introduction, by Kkxpk. FoUo (pub. at
\9L)t half morocco, St. 9s.
STRUTTS SYLVA BRITANNICA ET S*^TICA; or, Portraits of Forest Trees, dbtin-
guiahed tor their Antiquity, Magnitude, or Beauty, comprising M very large and hlghly-flmshed
painters' Etchings, imperial folio (pub. at 9/. 9«.), half morocco extra, gilt edgea, 4L l««.
1S36
STRUTTS DRESSES AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND, from
the Establiahment of the Saxons in BriUin to the present time; with an historical and
Critical Inquiry Into every Itranch of Costume. New and greatly improved Edition, with Cri-
tiftal and Explanatory Notes, by J. R. Plakche', Esq., F.S.A. 3 vols, royal 4to. 153 Plates,
cloth, 4/. 4s. Tlie Plates, coloured, 7^. 7*. The Plates splendidly illuminated in gold, sUver,
and opaque colours, in the Missal style, 20/. 1B4S
STRUTTS REGAL AND ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES OF ENGLAND-
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Confessor to Henry the Eiahtb ; together with many of the Great Personages that wem asM-
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STUBBS' ANATOMY OF THE HORSE. 34 fine large Copper-plate Engravinga. Impe.
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The original edition of this fine old woik, which is indispensable to artists. It baa loBgbtek
considered rare.
TATTERSALL'S SPORTING ARCHITECTURE, comprising the Srad Farm, the Stall,
the Stable, the Kennel, Race Studs, &c. with 43 beautilUl staei and wood illnstrations, sa^«r»I
after Hakcock, cloth gUt (pub. at 1/. lu. 6d.), It. is. ' ISM
TAYLOR'S HISTORY OF THE FINE ARTS IN GREAT BRITAIN. 3 toIs. post
svo. WoodcuU (pub. at U. 1«.), cloth, 7«. Sd. IMi
" The best view of the sUte of modern art."— I7m'i«d States* Gaxette.
TODS ANNALS AND ANTIQUITIES OF RAJASTHAN : OR, THE CENTRAL
AND WESTERN RAJPOOT STATES OF INDIA, COMMONLY CAIlED RAJPOOT-
ANA). By Lieut.- Colonel J. Ton, imperul 4to, embellished with above 28 extramely baauti-
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TURNER AND GIRTIN'S RIVER SCENERY; tolio, so beautiful ennavlBn on ite«L
after the drawlnpi of J. M. W. TirKirK&, brilUant impmiioni, in a portfolio, vftli morocea
back (pub. at U. 5t.). reduced to 1/. lit. 6cf.
the same, with thick glazed paper between the platea, half bound morocco: riit
mt I'.l C \ m^AttttmA *A •# o« ' "
edges (pub. at it. 6i.), reduced to 2U 2«.
WALKER'S ANALYSIS OF BEAUTY IN WOMAN. Preceded ^7 a critical View of the
Sneral H}-pothese8 respecting Beauty,, by Lsovakdo da Vixcj, Mbkos, Wivckeluamk,
UME, HooARTH, BuRKE, Kkiuht, Alisov, and others. New Edition, royal gvo, illus-
trated by 22 beautiful Plates, after drawings from life, by H. Howaxj>. by Gauci and Lav r
(pub. at 2i.2«.),gUt cloth, 1/.U. 1M6
WALPOLE*S (HORACE) ANECDOTES OF PAINTING IN ENGLAND, with some
Account oftlie Principal Artists, and CaUlojrue of EngraTers, who hare been bom or resided
in England, with Notes br Dallawat; New Edition, Revised and Enlarged, by Rai^pii
WoRMiM, Esq., complete in 3 toIb. 8to, with nmneroua beautiAil portralta and plates. Si. 2«.
WATTS'S PSALMS AND HYMNS, Itr.vsTRATBD Editioit, complete, with Indexes of
'* Sul^ccts," " First Lines,'* and a Table of Scriptures, Sto, printed in a very large and beauti-
Ail type,/embe]tished with 24 beautiful Wood CuU by Martin, Westall, and others (pub. at
U. 1*.), gUt cloth, 7«. 6d.
WHISTON'S JOSEPHUS» ILLUSTRATED EDITION, complete: containing both the
Antiquities and the Wars of the Jews. 2 vols. 8to, handsomely printed, emhelliiibed with AS
beautiAil Wood Engraving*, by various Artists (pub. at IL is.), cloth lids., eiegantly gilt, 14s.
WHITTOCK'S DECORATIVE PAINTER'S AND GLAZIER'S GUIDE, eonUining the
moHt approved metliuds of imitating every kind of fkncy W^ood and Marble, in Oil or Distemper
Colour, Designs for De;,orating ApartmenU, and tlie Art of Staining and Painting on Olass,
&c., with Examples fr-im Ancient Wlndov^b, with the Supplement, 4to, illustrated with 104
plates, ofwhich 44 are coloured, (pub. at 21. 14«.) cloth, U. lOt.
WHITTOCK'S MINIATURE PAINTER'S MANUAL Foolscap Svo., t eolotmd pUtes.
aad numerous woodcuts (pub. at 5«.) cloth, 3$.
WIGHTWICK'S PALACE OF ARCHITECTURE, a Romance of Art and Hiatorv. Tmpc
rial Svo, with 211 Illustrations, Steel PUtes, and Woodcuto (pub. at 2U 1S«. 6iL), doth, II. 1*.
1S40
WILD'S ARCHITECTURAL GRANDEUR of Belgium. Germany, and France, S4flne
Plates by Le Keux, &c. Imperial 4to (pub. at If. 18«.|, half morocco, H. 4a. 1197
WILD'S FOREIGN CATHEDRALS, is Plates, coloured and mounted like Drawings, In a
handsome portfilio (pub. at I2l. 12«.), imperial folio, iL ft*.
WILLIAMS' VIEWS IN GREECE, 64 beautiful Line Enjrravings by Mtt.t.xii, Horsbvmh,
and others. 2 vols, imperial Svo (pub. at 6<. 6«.), half bound mor. extra, gilt edges, 2L 12i. U.
ISSV
WINDSOR CASTLE AND ITS ENVIRONS, INCLUDING ETON, hj tziTcn
Reitchie, new edition, edited by E. Jes8E, Esq., illustrated with upwards of SO beaunnu
Engravings on Steel and Wood, ruyal 8vo., gilt cloth, lia.
WOOD'S ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES AND RUINS OF PALMYRA AND
BALREC. 2 {vols, in 1. imperial folio, eontninlng 110 flue Copper-plate Engravings, some
very large and folding (pub. at 71. 7<.), half morocco, uncut, 3/. 13i. 6d, M27
iaatural l^istors, glgrfculture, ice.
ANDREWS' FIGURES OF HEATHS, wtth Scientific Descriptions. < vols, royal )»v«,
with 300 beautifully coloured Plates (pub. at lU.), cloth, gilt, 7/. 10«. ISift
BARTON AND CASTLES BRITISH FLORA MEDICA ; OR, HISTORY OP THE
^IKDICINAL PLANTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2 vols. Svo, illustrated by upwards of 20«
Coloured Figures of PlanU (pub. at 31. 3«.), cloth, 1/. 16«. 184S
BAUER AND HOOKER'S ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE GENERA OF FERNS,
in which the characters ofeact. Genus are displayed in the most elaborate manner, In a series
of magnified Dlbsections and Figures, highly finished in Colours. Imp. Svo, Plates, 6/. 18SS-4S
BEECHEY. — BOTANY OF CAPTAIN BEECHETS VOYAGE, compriMn; an
Account of the Plants collected by Messrs. Lat and Collie, and otiier Officers of the
Expedition, during the Voyage to the Pacific and Behring's Straits. By Sir William
Jacemcv Hooker, and G. A. W. Arkott, Esq., illustrated by 100 Plates, beautlfiillv en-
graved, complete in 10 parts, 4to (pub. at 71. 10a.), &/. 183M1
BEECHEY.— ZOOLOGY OF CAPTAIN BEECHEY'S VOYAGE, compiled from the
Collections and Notes of Captain Beecitbt and the Sriendfie Gentlemen who accompanied
the Expedition. The Mammalia, by Dr. Richartison : Ornithology, by N. A. Vigors, Esq.,
Fishes, by G. T. Lat, Esq., and E. T. Bekxbtt, Esq.; Crustacea, by Rich Ann Owbx;
Esq.; Reptiles, by Jonv Edward Gray, Esq.; Shells, by W. Sowbrby, Esq.; and Geology,
by the Rev. Dr. Bucklakd. 4to, illustrated by 47 Plates, containing many hundred Figures,
beautifully colcured by Sowbrby (pub. itiU U,), cloth, 3i. I3a. OiL IS3S
10 CATALOGUE OP »BW BOOKS
BOLTON'S NATURAL HISTORY OF BRITtSH SONG BIRDS. lUustnted nitb
FIfiirM, th« liie of Llf», oftbe Birdi, both Mfele and F«inaJe, in their moat Natural Attitudes:
their Neeti and Enr^t rood, Favourite Plants, Shrubs, Trees, ftc. fee. New Edition, revisea
and very eonsiderabiv augmented, a vols, in 1, medium 4to, containing 80 Iwaatifull/ coloured
plates ( pub. at li. S«. ) , bslf bound morocco, gilt badcs, gilt edgtM, 31. St, 1845
BRmSH FLORIST, OR LADY'S JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE. •toIs.8«o. n
coIoutmI plates of flowers and groups (pub. at 4t. lOs.), eloth, U. lis. 1849
BROWN'S ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE LAND AND FRESH WATER SHELLS
OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND; with Figures, DcaAcipCions, and Local iUes of aU
the Species. Royal 8?o, containing on 27 large Plates, 330 Figures of all the known British
Species, la their tail alM, aMUrateijr Atvitu teoux Natura (puh. at iSfc), cloth, I0». 6ef. 1845
CURTIS'S FLORA LONDINENSIS; EeTlsed and Improred hy Qnomos Gkatbs, ex-
tended and continued by Sir W. Jacksov Hookbr; comprising the History of Plants indi-
C nous to Oreat Britain, with Indexes; the Drawings made by Stdenhax, Edwards, and
MDZimr. 6 vols, royal folio (or 10» parts), containing 647 Plates, exhibiting the fbll natural
dM of each Plant, with magnifled Dissections of the Parts of Fructification, ftc, aU bcauti-
ftdly colonrad ( pub. at STi. 4t. in parts), half bound morocco, top edge* gilt, 30i. 183S
DENNY— MONOQRAPHIA ANOPLURORUM BRITANNliC, OR BRITISH
SPBCIBS OP PARASITE INSECTS (published under the patronage of the Britbh Assoefa.
tlon), 8to, numerous beautiftillf eotoured plates of Lice, eontailnlng several hundred magnified
flgures, cloth, li. lis. fid. 1849
DON'S GENERAL SYSTEM OF GARDENING AND BOTANY. 4 ToiomM, royal 4to,
nnmeions woodcuts (pub. at UL 8«.}, cloth. If. lU. Set. 183UlgS8
DON'S HORTU8 CANTABRIGIENSIS; thirteenth Edition, 8vo (pub. at 12. 4i.), elotb, U».
1843
DONOVAN S NATURAL HISTORY OF THE INSECTS OF INDIA. Enlarged, by
J. O. Wbstwood, Esq., F.L.S., 4to, with 58 pistes, containing upwards of 120 exquisitely
coloured figures (pub. at 61. Ot.), cloth, gilt, reonced to 21. 2«. 1842
DONOVAN S NATURAL HISTORY OF THE INSECTS OF CHINA. Enlarged, by
J. O. Westwood. Esq., F.L.S., 4to, with so plates, containing upwards of 180 exquisitely
coloured flgures (pub. at 8/. 0«.)» clotn, gilt, 2/. 5«.
** Donovan's works on the InseeU of India and China are splendidly Illustrated and ex-
t^maly useful."— iVa/urati*<.
''The entomological plates of our countnrman Donovan, are highly coloured, elegant, and
_jeful, especially those contained In his quarto volumes (' .. .. .-,... ..
great nnniber of speciea are delineated for the first time."-
DONOVAN'S WORKS ON BRITISH NATURAL HISTORY. Vis.-Insects, 16 vols.
•»Blrds, 10 vols.— Shells, 5 vols.— FIsIms, 5 vols.— duadrupeds, 3 vols.— together 39 vols. Svo.
oontalniiw 1 108 beautifully coloured plates (pub. at 66<. Ot. ) , boards, 2U. 17«. The same set of
89 vols, bound in 21 (pub. at 73/. 10«.), half green morocco extra, gilt edges, gilt backs, SOf.
Any of the classes may be had separately.
DOYLE'S CYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HUSBANDRY, and Run! Aflhlrs In
General, New Edition, Enlarged, thick 8vo., witii 70 wood engT««4ngs (pub. at 13««), doth,
8». fld. IVl
ORURY'S ILLUSTRATIONS OF FOREIGN ENTOMOLOGY; wherein are exhibi ed
upwards of 600 exotic Insects, of the Bast and West Indies, China, New Holland, North and
Sooth America, Germany, Stc. By J. O. Wxstwood, Esq., F.L.S., Secretary of the Entomo-
logical Society, ftc. 3 vols. 4to, 150 Plates, most beautifully coloured, conUining above 600
flgures of Insects (originally pub. at 15/. \&t.), half bound morocco, 6/. 16«. M, 1837
EVELYNS SYLVA AND TERRA. A Discourse of Forest Trees, and the Propagation of
Timber, a Philosophical Discourse of the Earth: with Life of the Author, and Notes by Dr. A.
Hunter, 3 vols, royal 4to. Fifth improved Edition, with 46 Plates (p^b. at 5L St.), cloth, V.
FtTZROY AND DARWIN.-ZOOLOGY OF THE VOYAGE IN THE BEAGLE
166 plates, mostly coloured, 3 vols, royal 4to. (pub. at 9/.), cloth, at, 5*. 1838-43
GREVILLE'S CRYPTOGAMIC FLORA, compriilng the Principal Species found in Great
Britain, Inclusive of all the New Species recently discovered in Scotland. 6 vols, royal 8vo,
360 beautifully coloured PUtes (pub. at lit. 16«0* half moioceo, SL 8«. 1833-8
This, though a complete Work in itself, forms an almost indispensable Strnplement to the
thlrty'six volumes of Sowerby's English Botany, which does not comprehend Cryptogamous
Plants. It is one of the mort seientifle sad best executed work* ou IndigenouaBoteny ever
produced in this country.
HARDWICKE AND GRAY'S INDIAN ZOOLOGY.. Tw«ty parts, forming two vols.,
royal folia, 303 coionied plate* (pub. at 21/.), sewed, OL Us., or half morocoa, gilt edges,
14/. 14«.
HARRIS'S AURELIAN; OR ENGLISH MOTHS AND BUTTERFLIES, Their
This extremety beantiful work is the only one wfaiah_ contains our English Moths and Batter-
Otes of the full natural sine, in all their changes of Olterpttlar, Chrysalia, fte., wMh the planM
en which they feer< ^ ,
Digitized byVjOOQlC
FCBLXSHEB OR SOLD BT H. G. BOHN. 11
HOOKLR AND QITEVILLE, ICONES FILICUM: OA. FIQURCS OF FERNS'
With DESCRIPTIONS, many ervhiob bavebcen altosetber iinii«ticed 1^ Botuilatt, or have
not been correcUy flgrured. 2 vols. foUo, with 340 beaudAiUy eolound PlatM (p«ib. at 25/. 4«. i,
half morocco, gilt edges, lai. 12*. 1829^1
The grandest and most ralnable ofUie many sctoatlAc Works ytodae«d byStrWIUlam Hpoker.
HOOKEft'S EXOTIC FLORA, conUlning Figures and DescrlpllonB of Rare, or otherwia«,>
interesting Exotic PlanU, especially of such as are deserving of being cultivated in our Gar-
dens. 3 vols. Impeilal Svo, containing 232 large and beautifully coloured Plates (pub. at 15^.),
cloth, 6L 6«. 1823-1827
, This is the most superb and attractive of all Dr. Hoo1cer*s valuable works.
••The • Exotic Flora,' by Dr. Hooker, U like that of all the Botanical publicatiom of the in-
defatigable author, excellent; and It assumes an appearance of finish and perfection to
which neither the Botanical Magazine nor Register can extemaUy lay claim."— loiuteii.
HOOKER'S JOURNAL OF BOTANY; coatalnlag Figures and Desertptions of such Plants
as recommend themselves bv their novelty, rarity, or history, or by the uses to which they are
g>plied in the Arts, In Medicine, and In Domestic Economy; together with occasional
oUnieal Notices and Information, and occasional Fortraiu and Memoirs of eminent
Botanists. 4 vols. 8vo, numerous plates, some coloured (pub. at 8/. ), cloth, II. 1834-42
HOOKER'S BOTANICAL MISCELLANY; containing Figures and Descrtptloits of Plants
which recommend themselves by their novelty, rarity, or history, or by the uses to which they
are applied in the Arta, in Medicine, and in Domestic Economy, together with occanional
Botanical Notices and Information, including many valuable Communications f^om distin-
guished Scientific Travellers. Complete in 3 thick v<ds. royaf 8vo, wltii 153 plates, many finely
coloured (pub. at 51, 5«.), gilt cloth, iL 13«. 6d. 1830-33
HOOKER'S FLORA BORrALi-AMERICANA; OR, THE BOTANY OF BRITISH
NORTH AMERICA. Illustrated by 840 plates, complete in Twelve Parta, royal 4to, (pub.
•t 12^. 12a.), 8^ The Twelve Parte compute, done up in 2 vols, royal 4to, extra clotli, 9L
1829-40
HUISH ON BEES; THEIR NATURAL HISTORY AND GENERAL MANAGEMENT.
New and greatly improved Edition, containing alao the latest Discoveries and Improvemcnta
In every department of the Apiary, with a desciiptlon of the most approved Hivxa now in use,
thick 12mo, Portrait and numerous WoodcuU (pub. at 10*. M.), cloth, gilt, t$. 6d. 1S44
JOHNSON'S GARDENER, complete in 12 vols, with numerous woodeuta. containing the
potato, one vol.— Cucumber, one vol.— Grape 'tine, »wo tiris.— Auricula and Asparagus, one
vol.— Pine Apple,twovolB.— Strawberry, one vol.— Dahlia, tmt vol.— Peach, one voL— Apple,
two vols.— together 12 vols. 12mo, woodeuta (pub. at II. ie«.), cloth. It*. 1847
■ I ' dtlierdfthevolMneB may be had aeparataly (pub. atts.M.), at la.
JOHNSON'S OfCTIONARY OF MODERN GARDENtNG, mnnmona Woodeuta, very
thiek lamo, cloth lettered (pub. at 10«. 6d.), 4«. A comprehensive and elegant volume. 1846
LATHAM'S GENERAL HISTORY OF- BIRDS. Being the Natural History and Descrip-
tioa of all the Birds (above four thoussnd) hitherto known or described by Naturalista, with
the Synonymes of preceding Writers : the second enlarged and Improved Edition, compre-
hending all the discoveries fin Ornithology subsequent to the former pul)Iication, and a General
Index, 11 vols. In 10, 4to, with upwards of 800 coloured Platas, lettered (pub. at 26/. 8*.), clotii,
71. 17'. 6d. Wmchuter, 1821-28. The same with Che plates exquisitely coloured like drawings,
11 vols, in 10, eleganljy half bound, greooimoroooo, gilt edges, \2l. 12«.
^EWIN'S NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BIRDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
Third Edition, with an Index of the Scientific Names and Synonymes by Mr. 6ovu>and Mr.
Bytok, folio, 27 plates, coloured (pub. at 4/. it.), hL bd. morocco, 2/. tt. 1838
LINDLEY'S BRITISH FRUITS J OR, FIGURES AND DESCRIPTIONS OF THE MOST
IMPORTANT VARIETIES OF FRUIT CULTIVATED IN GREAT BRITAIN. 3 vols,
royal 8vo, containing 132 most beautifully coloured plaUs, chiefly by Mas. Withbks, Artist
to the Horticultural Society (pub. at lOL 10*.), half bound, morocco extra, gilt edges, U. &$.
1841
••This la an exqulsitaly beautiful work. Every plate la Ilk* a^hlghly iinlshed dnwlngt
dmllar to those In the Horticultural Transactions."
LtNDLEY^ DIGITALIUM MONOGRAPHIA. Folio, S8 plates of the Fbxglofe (pnh. at
4/.4«.),eloth, W. ll«.6d.
— ■ ■ the same, the plates beautifully coloured (pub. at tL <•.), clotli, U, VU. 9d,
LOUDON'S (MRS.) ENTERTAINING NATURALIST, being Popular DeseriptloM,
Tales, and Anecdotes of more than Five Hundred Animals, cemprebendmg all the Quadropeua,
Birds, Pislies, Reptiles, I nsecta, &c. of which a knowledge Is indispensable in polite educa>
tlon. With Indexes of Scientific aii Popular Names, an Explanation of Terns, and an Ap-
pendix of Fabulous Animals, illustrated by upwards of soo beautiful woodcuts by B&wicz,
Hakvbt, Whtmpkk, and others. New Edition, revised, enlarged, and corrected te Hi*
present state of Zoological Knowledge . In one thick vol. post 8vo. gill cloth, 7a. id. 1858
LOUDON'S (J. C.) ARBORETUM ET FRUTICETUM BRITANNICUM, or th»
Trees and ShruliS of Britain, Native and Foreign, delineated and described; with their propa-
gation, culture, manMoment, and uses. Second improved Edition, 8 vols. 8vo, with abovo
400 platea of Uees, and upwasda of aato woedcuu of uses and shrubs (pub. at IW.), U. 8«. 18M
12 CATALOGUE OF KBW BOOKS
MANTELL'S (DR.) NEW QEOLOQtCAL WORK. THE MEDALS OF CREATIOir
or First LMamu In Ocology, and In the Study of Omnie Remsina; ineludinK Oeolofricn! Ex~
cuntons to the Itio of Shtppey, Brighton, Level, TUgnte Forest. Charnwood Forest, Fsrrtng'
dun, Swindon, Calne, Bath, Bristol, Clifton, Matlork, Crich HilL &c. By Oidbok Alokr-
Nov Mantbu., Esq., LL.D., F.B.S.. &c. Tvo thick vols, foolscap 8vo, vith colourad
Vlates, and seveiml hundred beaatiAil WoodcuU of Fo*sU Remains, cloth gUt, IL U. ' IBM
MANTELL'S WONDERS OF GEOLOGY, or a Familiar EzposlUon of Geologieal Phe-
nomena. Sixth greatly enlarged and improved r
upwards of 8M WoodcuU, gilt cloth, IBf.
nomena. Sixth greatly enlarged and improved Edltloii. 3 Tols. post Svo, coloured Pistes, and
MANTELL'S GEOLOGICAL EXCURSION ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT,
and along the adjacent Coast of Dorsetshire. In 1 vol. post 8v«, with numerous beautifully
cxecuUd Woodcuts, and a Geological Map, cloth gilt, 13f. IM
MUDIE'S NATURAL HISTORY OF BRITISH BIRDS; OR, THE FEATHERED
TIIIBES CF THE BRITISH ISIJiNDS. 3 vols. 8vo. Mew Edition, the FUtes beanti-
fuUy coloured (pub. at 1/. 8<.), cloth gilt, 16«. 183S
'* Tills is, without any exception, the most truly chsrmiag work on Omitbology which has .
hitherto appeared, ftrom the days of WUIoughby downwards. Other authors describe,.
■ Mudie paints; other authors give the husk, Mudie the kerneL We most heartily concur
with the opinion expressed of tliis work by Leigh Hunt (a kindred spirit) in the first few
numticrs of his right pleasant Lmdon JnumaL The descriptions of Bewick, Pennant,
Lewin, Montagu, and even Wilson, will not for an instant stand comparison with tho'
splrit-stirring emsnatlons of Mudie's * living pen,' as it has been called. We are not ac-
quainted with any author who so felicitously unites beauty of stvle with strength and nerve
of expression ; he does not specify, but paints."— WooePi Omitkoioffieal Guidt,
RICHARDSON'S GEOLOGY FOR BEGINNERS, comprising a fhmiliar Explanation of
Oeology and ita associate Sciences, Mlnpralc^rri Physical Oeolonr, Fossil Conchology, Fossil
Botany, and Paleontology, including Dircctions for forming Collections, ftc. By G. F.'
RicHAnDsoK, F.Q.S. (formerly with Dr. Mantell, now of the British Museum). Second
Edition, considerably enlarged and improved. One thick voL post 8vo, illustrated by upwards
of 160 WoodcuU (pub. at 10«. 6d.), cloth, 7«. 6d. IMI
SELSrS COMPLETE BRITISH ORNITHOLOGY. A most msgnlfleent work of the
Figures of British Birds, containing exact and faithfVil representations in their ftall natural sixe,
of all tiie known species found in Qreat Britain, S83 Figures in 238 beautifully coloured Plates.
2 vols, elephant folio, elegantly half bound morocco (pub. at I05l.)i gilt back and gilt edges,
91/. 1U«. 1884^
*' The grandest work on Ornithology published in this country, the same for Britbk Birds'
that Audubon's Is for the birds of America. Every figure, excepting in a very fsw instances of
extremely large birds, is of the fiUI natural sixe, beautifully and accurately drawn, with all the
spirit of life."— OmtlAo/oou<'« Tait Book.
" What a treasure, during a rainy forenoon In the country, is such a gloriously Uhunfaiated
work as this of Mr. SelbyT It is, without doubt, the most splendid of the kind ersfr published
in Britain, and will stMid a companson, without any eclipse of its lustre, with the most magni-
ficent ornithological illuatrations of the French school. Mr. Selby has long and doatcredly
ranked high as a scientific naturalist."— ^tectitwod'* Maffusme.
SELBY'S ILLUSTRATIONS OF BRITISH ORNITHOLOGY. 3 toIs. tro.
Edition (pub. at It. Is.), boards, 13i. 1833
SIBTHORP'S FLORA GR^CA. The most costly and magnificent Botanical work o^er pub-
lixhed. 10 vols, folio, with 1000 beautiftilly coloured Plates, half bound morocco, pabliahing
br subscription, and the number strictly limited to those subscribed for (pub. at SSSt), 63i.
Separate Prospectuses of this work are now ready for delivery. Onlv forty copies of tfat
original stock exist. Mo greater number of subscribers' names can therefore be rocdivod.
SIBTHORP'S FLORA GRACA PRODROMUS. SIve Plantarum omnium Enameratio,
quas in Provinciis aut Insulls Craciic invenit Joh. SiBTiionp: Oharacteres et Synonyms
omnium cum AnnoUtionibus Jac. Est. Smith. Four parU, in 3 thick vols, 8vo (pub. ati
2/.2«.), U«. loiKCmt, 1818-
SOWERBY'S MANUAL OF CONCHOLOGY. Containing a complete Introduction to the
Science, illustrated by upwards of 6A0 Figures of Shells, etched on copper-plates, in which the
most characteristic examples are given of all the Genera established up to the present time,
(•rninged in Lamarekian Order, accompanied t>y copious Explanations: Observations respect-
ing the OeoKraphical or Geological distribution of each; Thbular Vlewa of the Systems of
Lamsrck and De BZainvillr : a Glosssry of Technical Terma, tte. New Edition, eoosidenhl}"
enlarged and Improved, with nnmetoas WoodcuU in the text, now flrst added, gvo, cloth, IS«.
The plaus coloured, cloth, 1/. 16*. 181S
SOWERBY'S CpNCHOLOGICAL ILLUSTRATIONS; OR, cOLorRSD FIGURES
OF ALL THE HITHERTO UNFIOURBD SHELLS, complete In MO S^tells, 8vo, compris-
ing several thousand Flgurea, in parU, all beautifully eoloured (pub. at 15/.), 74 10s. 1815
SPffYS BRITISH COLEOPTEKA DELINEATED; containing Figures and Descriptions
of all the Genera of British Beetles, edited by Siiitckaiio, 8vo, with 94 plates, comprising 688
figures of Beetles, beaotlftdly and most accurately drawn (pub. at ^4 3*. ), cloth, \L U. 1848
** The most perfect work vet published in this department of British £ntomol«c7.*«
STEPHENS' BRITISH ENTOMOLOGY, 12 voU. Svo, loo coloured PUtea (pnb.atsil.V
half bound. 6l.it. m|g |{
—Or separat«iy, Lkpidoptsra. 4 vols. 4/. 4«. CotxopTERA, S vols. 4L It. OsaaKArmuk.
OnTUOP., Mi(0««fV ,*LO,t vol U m UvMtKu»Tss.A, 2 vohi. SL U, ^^
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PUBLISHED OR SOLD BY H. G. BOHIT. 13
SWAINSON'S EXOTIC CONCHOLOGY; OIL FIOUBS8 AND DESCRIPTIONS OF
RAKE, BEAUTIFUL, OR UNDESCUlBED SHELLS. RoyaUto, contiinin^; M large and
beautifully colouxed figures of Shells, half bound mor. gilt edges (pub. at M. 5«), 2^ 13i. M.
SWAINSON'S ZOOLOGICAL ILLUSTRATIONS; OR, ORIGINAL FIGURES AND
DESCRIPTIONS OP NEW, RARE, OR INTERESTING ANIMALS, selected chieflj
tiom the Classos of Ornithology, Entomology, and Conchology. 6 vols, ro^-al 8to, containing
S18 finely coloured plates ( pub. at 16^. 16*. ) , half bound morocco, gilt edges, 91. 9*.
SWEETS FLORA AUSTRALASiCA; OR. A SELECTION OF HANDSOME OR
CURIOUS PLANTS, Natires of New Holland and the South Sea Islands. 15 Nos. forming
1 Tol. royal two, complete, with 56 beautifully coloured plates (pub. at s;. 15*.}, cloth, U. 16a.
1827-2S
SWEETS CISTINE>E; OB, NATURAL ORDER OF CISTUS, OR ROCK ROSE. SO
Nos. forming 1 vol. ro/al Svo, complete, with 112 beautifully coloured plates (pub. at U. 5*.),
cloth, 3^. lit. td. 183t
** One of the moat interwtliiff, and hitherto the scareeit of Mr. Sweet's beautiful publieationi."
iKtscellaneottS dBnt^Mfiif) Hiteraturt,
INGLVDIXO
HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, POETRY AND THE
DRAMA, MORALS, AND MISCELLANIES.
BACON'S WORKS, both English and Latin. With an Introductory Essav, and copious
Indeaus. Complete in 2 large yoU. imperial Sro, PortraU (pub. at »U »$.), cloth, i:. 16*. ia»
BACON'S ESSAYS AND ADVANCEMENT OF LEARNING, with Memoir and Notei
by Dr. Taylor, square 12mo, with 34 Woodeuta (pub. ai 4*.), ornamental wrapper, It. td,
BANCROFTS HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES, from the Discovery of the
American Continent. Tweliih Edition, 3 vola, Sto (publiahed at 2L 10*.), doth, 1^ lb. td,
1847
BATTLES OF THE BRITISH NAVY, from a.b. looo to 1840. By Josbph Allbw, of
Greenwich Hospital. 3 thick elegantly printed vols, foolscap 8to, illustrated by 24 PortralU
of British Admirals, beautifully engraved on Steel, and numerous Woodcuu of Battles (pub.
at U. 1*.), cloth gilt, 14*. 1842
*« These volumes are invaluable; they contain the very pith and marrow of our best NaYal
Ulatories and Chronicles."— Snk.
**The best and most complete repository of the triumphs of the BiiUsh Navy which haa yet
issued firom the press."— (/nttrd Service Gtutette.
BORDERER'S, THE TABLE BOOK, or Gatherings of the Local History and Romance of
the English and Scottish Borders, by M. A. Ricraxdsok (of Newcastle), 8 vols, hound In 4,
royal tvo, Illoatrated with nearly 1000 interesting WoodcuU, extra cloth (pub. at 3^. lOt.),
1/. lU. NewaulU, 1846
«»* One of the cheapest and moat attractive seta of books imaginable.
BOSWELL'S UFE OF DR. JOHNSON; BY THE RIGHT HON. J. C. CROKER,
Incorporating hia Tour to the Hebrlde8,and accompanied by the Commentaries of all pre-
ceding Editors: with numerous additional Notes and lUustratfve Anecdotes; to which are
added Two Supplementary Volumes of Anecdotes bv Hawkiks, Piozzi, Murphy, Tykes,
KKyKOi.DS, Stjsjsvkns, and others. 10 vols. 13mo, illustrated by upwards of so Views, Por-
traits, and Sheets of Autographs, finely engraved on Steel, from Drawings by Stanfield, Hard-
ing, &e., cloth, reduced to 11. 10*. IMg
Tills new, improved, and greatly enlarged edition, beautifully printed In the popular form of
Sir Walter Scott, and Byron's Works, is just such an edition as Dr. Johnson himself loved and
recommended. In one of tlie Ana recorded in the supplementsry volumes of the present edi-
tion, he says: ** Books that you may carry to the Are, and hold readily in your band, are tbo
most useful after all. Such books form the maas of general and easy reading."
BOURRIENNE'S MEMOIRS OF NAPOLEON, one stout, closely, but elegantlv printed
vol., foolscap 12mo, with fine equestrian Portrait of Napoleon and Frontispiece (pub. at A*.),
ctotli, 3*. 6d. 1814
BRITISH ESSAYISTS, vlx., Spectator, Tatler, Guardian, Bainbler, Adventurer, Idler, and
Coniioiseur, 3 thick vols. 8vo, portraits (pub. at 21. 5*.), doth, 1/. 7*. £ilber volume may be
had separate.
BRITISH POETS, CABINET EDITION, containlPg the complete works of the principal
English poetJi, from Milton to Kirke While. 4 vols, post 8vo (size of Standard Library)
printed in a very small but beauiilul t) pp, 22 Mraalliou rortraiu (nub. at 2^ 3*.}, cloth, 13s.
14 04TALOOI7E OF VBW BOOKS
KHOUQHAM'S (UORO) POLITICAL PHILOSOPHY, uASM«y«mth«BillMi(
Uoa, S volt. 8vo (pub. at IL lb. 6^}. clgtli, IL U.
I BfftUib CoaaUtutiM (a pailloa of tha praaaiWag ««fc)r tva, aloth. U,
BKOUOHAM'S (LORD) HISTOMCAL SKETCHES OF STATESNIEN. aad
Public Cbaraetan of th« ttae of Ooa«|« III. Ttd. III. toftX »vo, wMi !• fiae p«
(pub. at li. U. ), cloU^ lOb td. IMO
BROUGHAM'S (LORD) UVES OF MCN OF LETTERS AND SCIENCE. Vho
lloumbed la tlia time of Oaori* III, rojal Svo, vttli 10 flaa poctnita (pub. at 1^ U.), elotb, 12i.
x^— th« ttwa, alao vHh tht portnlla, temj tro (pub. at U. Uk doth, 10«. fti. 1H6
BROWNE'S (SIR THOMAS) WORKS, COMPLETE. ineludlBg Ma Vulgar Etiwa.
Bellflo Mediclf Urn Burial, Chrlatlan MaraiB, Cormpandeac^ Jounala, aad ftecta, laaBy of
tham hitherto unpublished. The whole oollaotod aad adMad by Suiox Wujeik, F.L^. «
vols. 8to, fine Portrait (pub. at U. ••.), cloth, 1^ 11«. 9d. Piekamif, 1836
**8ir Thonus Browne, the coatanporajy of Jaranjr Tajtor, Hotke, Baean, SeMcp^ and
Kol>«rt Burton, Is nndoubtadlf one of the most eloquent and poetical of that great literary era.
Uis thoughts arc often trulj aublime, and always conveyed la the most ImpressiTe laaguascS
BUCKINGHAM'S AMERICA; HISTORICAU STATISTICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE,
▼ia. : Northern States, 3 rola.: Eastern and Western Sutes, 3 vols. ; Soutbara or Slave States,
i vols.; Canada. Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and tiie other British Paovinces in Noztii
America, 1 vol. Toffatber 9 stout vols. 8vo, uumerons fine Enrravlnss (pubi.'at GL 10«. btL),
cloth, Si. iti. Od, 1841-43
**Mr. Bttckingliam goes deliberately fhroufili the Statea, treating of all, hiatiMlcally and ata-
ttstically— of Uielr rise aad progress, their manufactures, trade, population, topography, fer-
ttUty, resourctfs, morals, manners, education, and so forth. Hit vintmet wiU U/oiatdm tUn-
homae qf tiunnUdge.".^Aiktiimim.
** A very entire and comprehendTe view of the United Statas, dlOgantly collected by a mam
of great acuteness and observation."— /.aerai^ Gasetle.
BURKE'S (EDMUND) WORKS. With a Blocraphlcal and Critical Introduction by Bogcks. '
a vols, imperial Svo, closely but bandaomeiy printed ( pub. at ai. 2s.), cloth, lU lOc. IMI
BURKE'S ENCYCLOP/EOtA OF HERALDRY; OR, GENERAL ARMOURY
OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND,. AND IJB^LAND. ComprUing a Registry of all AmociM
Bearings, CreaU, and Mottoes, ftwn the EarUeet Period to the Present Time, including tte
lata OtanU by Oe GoUaga of Anas. WHh an Introduction to Heraldry, and a Didtidaary of
Terms. Third Edition, with a Sunplement. One verj' large vol. imperial 8vo, beautiAilly
printed in small type, in double columns, by Whittihcham, emhellUaed with aa elaboaUa
Fiontisplece, ricMy Ulwnlaated in gold aad colours; also Woodcuts (pub. at 2^. S*.), dou
(lit, 1/. to. 1844
Tlie most elaborate and nsefiil Work of the kind ever published. It contains upwards of
M,000 snnorisl bearings, and incorparatcs all that bave hitherto been «lven by Goultm, Si^
mondson, ColUns, Nishel, Berry, Ilobson, and oUiers; besides many thousand names which
have never appeared in any previous Work* I'bis volume, in Xact, in a asnaU compass, but
without abridgment, contains more than four ordinary quartos.
BURNS' WORKS, WITH LIFE BY ALLAN CUNNfHGHAM. AND NOTES BY
SIR WALTER SCOTT, CAMPBELL, WORDSWORTH, LOCKHA&T, Ac Boyal 8vo,
fine Portrait and Plates (pub. at 18«.), cloth, uniform with Byron, I9:.6d. Wt2
Tills is positively the only complete edition of Burns, in a ainglc volume, Svo. It contains
not only every scrap which Bums ever wrois. wketlier proae ar veiae, but also a ooaaldec^ie
number of Scutch national airs, collected and iUustrsted by him (not given elsewhere) and full
and interesting accounts of the occasions and clroumstances of his various writiqgs. The
vary complete and interesting Life by Allan Cunningham alone occupies 164 pages, and the
Indices and Glossary are very copious. The whole forms a thick elegantly printed volume,
extending in all to 848 pages. The other editions, including one published in similar shape,
with an nbridement or the. Life by Ad Ian Cunniagbam, comprised in only 47 pages, and tb«
whole volume in only 504 pages, ;«io .not contain above two^hiMs of the bbove.
CAMI^BELL'SUFE AND TIMBS<OF PETRARCH. With Notices alBoceaccio and hia
lUnatrlous Contemporaries. Second Edition. 2 vols. 8vo, ftne Poftaaiu aad Plates (pub. at
IL 11«. 6d. ), cleith, 12*. IMi
GARY'S EARLY FRENCH POETS, a Seiiaa of Notices and TraoalaUons, with an Intro,
ductory Sketch of the Uiatoiy oCftaneh Poetry; Edited by his Son, the Bev.HxKnr Cjiar.
foolscap, 8vo, cloth, a. IIU&
CARYS LIVES OF ENGLISH POETS, anpplemenlary to Dr. JomrsoK's "Lives.»»
Edited by his Son, foolscap Svo, cloth, 7«. IMS
CHATHAM f>APERS, being the Correspondence of Wllltam Pitt, Earl of Chatham
Edited i>y the Executors of his Son, John Earl of Chatham, and pnblished (torn the Origins.
ManuscripU in their possession. 4 vols. 8vo (pub. at 3/. 12i.), cloth, 1/. &«.
AfMirsy, 1828.49
'*A production of greater historical interest could hardly be imagined. It is a standard
work, which will directly pass into every library."— Lifprary Gatttte.
" There is hardly any man in modern times who fills so large a space in our history, sftd of
whom we know so little, as Lord Chatham ; be was the greatest Statesman and Oratir tlMfl
this country ever produced. We regard this Work, therefore, aa one of the greatest vai«a."<«
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CHATTEIITON'S WORKSt both Prose and Poetiral, Includlns kU Letters; with Notices
of his Life, History of the Rowlev Controversy, and Notes CnlicKi aiio Explanatory. 2 vol'c
Mst Sto, elefantiy priatcd, with Kn|;rwred Ftc^slmfle* of Chatterton's Hatidwrltins and tho
Jbnriey M88; (paib. 44 IM.), eiotii, 9H Lwge P*p«r, 3^ol8< crown tvo (pnb. at IL U.). cloth.
USi 1842
**'WtatmL, Ms(Ien»i Croft, Dr. Knox, Dr. Shefirln. and others, tn prase; and Scott, Words-
Worth, Kirlce White, Mont^mrry, Shelley, Coleridft, and KaaUi in veiM ; have coaferred
jMtin* immortality upon the Poems of Chatterton."
*' ChattertoH's iraa a veniiia I > that of Homer and ShakspMre, wttteh stppcan n«t abore
once In mnny eentnrlos.^'— FWifsnn Anor.
CLARKE'S (DR. E. D.) TRAVELS IN VARIOUS COUNTRIES OF EUROPE,
ASIA, AND APR1 CA, 11 vols. «to , mstps and plsIM (puh. al MM. ), cloth, 91, 9s. 1827-34
CLASSIC TALES, Cabinet EdKlon, eomprlslnr the Vlenr of Walccftcid, RliKabetb, Patil and
Virsioia, Onlliver's Travels, Sterne's Sentimental Jonmey, Sorrows ot Werter, l'h«odasias
andConstantla, Castle of Otranto. and Raaselas, compleu to 1 vol. lamo.; 7 medalUen por-
traits (pub. at 10b. Oct.), cloth, 3«. Od.
COLMKN'S (QEORGE) POETICAL WORKS, containing his Broad Orlns. Vagaries, and
Eecentrieltles, 2'4mo, woodcuU (pnb. at 2$. M.), cloth, is. Od, 18it)
COOPER'S (J. F.) HISTORY OF THE NAVY OF THE UNITED STATES OT
AMERICA, from the Earliest Perloa to the Peace of ItlA, J voki« Svo (pub. at IL I9t.), gilt
cloth, 12>. issa
COPLEY'S (FORMERLY MRS. HEWLETT) HISTORY OF SLAVERY AND ITS
ABOLITION. Second Edition, with an Apfpendlt, thick small avo, fine Portrait of
ClarksoD (pub. «t 8«. ), elotb, 4s. 6d. Itit
COSTELLOS SPECIMENS OF THE EARLY FRENCH POETRY, from the time of
the TroubadoanXo the Reign of Henry IV, post Svo, with 4 Plates, epiendklly illumlaated in
gold and colours, cloth gilt, I8t. 1835
COWPERB COMPLETE WORKS, EDITED BY SOUTHEY; comprlsiag his Poems.
Correspondence, and Translations; with a Life of the Author. U vols, post Svo, cmbeilished
witta^merons exquisite Engravinga, after tlnr designs of HanvST (rnk at 3^4 I5«.),rieth,
This is the only complete edition of Cowper's Works, prose and poetical, which has ever
been given to the world. Many of them are etiU excluiavely copyright, and coose^ently
cimnet'appear In any other edition.
CRAWFURD'S (J.) EMBASSY TO SIAM AND COCHIN-CHINA, s role. 8vn.
Maps, And M PlaUs (pub. at U, lit. 6d.), ololh, 13a. 18M
CRAWFURD'S EMBASSY TO AVAj *ith an Apjendfx on Fossil Remains by Professor
BucKiJiKi}. 3 vols. 8V0, with 13 Maps, Plates, and > jgnettes (pub. at 1/. lU. id.), cloth.
cilUIKSHANKS THREE COURSES AND A DESSERT. A Series of Tales, in Three
Bets, viz., Irish, Legal, and Misceilaoemis. Crown 8vo. with 51 extremely clever and comic
JUnstrations ( publishing in the lilustraled Library alit.)
"This is an extraordinasy performanre. Such an union of the painter, the poet, uid the
novelist, in one person, is unexampled. A tithe of the ulent Uiat goes to making the storlea
wmM set up a dotan of annual writers ; and a tithe oftbe inventive genius that is displayed ill
theillnstratfons would finish a gallery."— ^rta/or.
DAVIS'S SKETCHES OF CHINA, During an Inland Jotmiey of Four Months; with an
Aceeunt or the War. Two vela., pestgvo, with a new map of China (pnb, at Ms.), doth, 9:
1841
OIBDIN'S BIBUOMANIA: OR BOOK-MADNESS. A Bibliographical Ronmnce. New
Edition, with considerable Additions, including a Key to the assumed Characters in the
Drama, and a Supplement. 8 vols, royal 8vo, handsomely printed, embellished by nwnierooa
Woodcuts, many of which are now first added ( pub. at 3/. 3*. ) , cloth, W. 1 U. 6ii. Large Paper,
imperial »vo, of'^whteh eniy very few copies were printed (pub. at 5<. 5«.), cloth, 3/. I3«. 6d.
This celebrated Work, which unites the entertainment of a romance with the most valuable
'^^ — "'on on an bibliographical snhjeets, has long been very scarce and sold for coaaldorabl*
B small paper for ti. 8s., and the large 'paper fnr upwards of SO guineas i 1 1
niimffS (CHARLES) SONGS, Admiralty edition, complete, with a Memoir by T.
DVtOxyr^ IJhistrated with 12 Characteristic Sketches, engraved on Steel by Oxonon Cnuix-
•HAiTK, 12mo, cloth lettered, 5«. 1848
DOMESTIC COOKERY, by a Lady (Mr*. Rvmcti.) New EdKfon, with numerous additional
Receipu,hy Mrs. Birch, 12mo., with 9 plates (pub. at Ct.) cloth, 3«. 1846
OBAKE'S SHAK6PEARE AND HIS TIMES, ineluding the Biography of the Poet,
Criticisms on his Genius and Writings, a new Chronology of his Plays, and a History of the
Maaaers, Customs, and AnMiscments, Superstitions, Poetry, and Literature of the Eiisahethaa
Era. 2 vols. 4to (above 1400 pages), with fine Portrait and a Plate of Autographs (pnh. at
5t. 5«.), cloth, W. U. 1817
*'A masterly production, the publication of which will form an epoch in the Shaksiierlan his-
torr of tMs country. It comprises also a complete and critical analysis of all the Plays and
P^eow of Shakspeare : and a compreoensive and powerful sketch of the conteai|t>rary Utcnu
tun*"—Genileiiian'i Mv^ugiM.
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CNQU8H CAUSES CELEBRES, OB, RKMARKABLB TRIALS. Sqoan Umo, («#■.
M 4t. ), onnmtBtol wrapper, U, fvM
PENH'S PASrON LETTERS, Wgtiul Lettm orthe Parton Vtotly, wrtttea dn^ lh«
JUisBS of Henry VI, Bdwanl iV, ud Bichwd III. Lj TBrimu Pcrwiia of Bsnk u^^Mike-
^oenco, chiefly oo Hiitorleal SnVlocts. Now Bditton, wtth Notes and Correctfons, cmnplcto,
S toIb. bouad la 1, iquAro Ifno (pub. ot Ito.), cloth gilt, te. Quaintly boand ia maraoii
aoroceo, carved boards, ia the early style, gilt edges, lit. «IM9
The original edition of this very cwloos and interesting Sf ries of historical Letters ia a rare
book, and sells for upwards of ten guineas. Tbe present is not an abridgment, as might be
sappoaed from its form, but give* the whole matter by omitting the duplicate Terstoaor^he
letters written in an obsolete language, and adopting oaly the mora moaem, nadable venioa
mbllshed by Feaa.
*' Tbe Fasten Letters are an faaportaat testimony to the progresslTe condition of society, aad
come in as a precious link In the chain of the moral histoty ef Eaglaad, which they aloim te
this period supply. They itaad Indeed singly in Europe."-— Aeiten.
FIELDING'S WORKS, EDITED BY ROSCOE, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME.
(Tom Jones, Amelia, Jonathan Wild, Joseph Andrews. Flays, Esssts, and Miscellanies.)
Medium 8to, with 20 capital Plates by CnaiKsii avk vpub. at U. 4«.), cloth ^It, 14«. I»4t
*' Of all the works of imagiaatioa to which English geaius has giren «»iMi, the wtftincs of
Hennr Fieldinr are perfaaps most decidedly and exclusively her own."— Ar WmlUr Srett.
**The prose Homet of hnmaa nature."— /.ore/ ^yron.
FOSTER'S ESSAYS ON DECISION OF CHARACTER; on a Man's Writtas Memoirs
of Himself : on the epithet Romantic: on the Aversion of Men of Taste to Evaagelteal Reli-
gion, ftc. PcKp.8vo, Eighteenth Edition (pub. at 6«.), cloth, ««. 184S
** I have read with the greatest admiration the Essays of Mr. Pouter. He is one of the most
profound and eloquent writers that England has produced."— Sir Jtmea Jtfsettiteak.
FOSTER'S ESSAY ON THE EVILS OF POPULAR IGNORANCE. NewBditioa,
elecantly printed, ia tup. Svo, now flrat uaifonn with bla Essays on Decision of Character,
cloth, ii. 1S47
**Mr. Foster alwaye eoasidered this his best work, and the oae by which he wished hia
literary claims to be estimated."
'* A work which, popular aad admind as it eoafsssedly Is, has never met with the thoaaandfk
part of the attention which It deserves."— Z>r. P^ SmUh.
FROIS5ARTS CHRONICLES OF ENGLAND. FRANCE, AND SPAIN, &C. New
Edition, by Colonel Jobnes, with UO beautUUl Woodcuts, 2 vols, super-royal Ivo, doth
lettered (pub. at U. 16f.), U. 8*. lS4t
FROISSART, ILLUMINATED ILLUSTRATIONS OF, 74 plates, printed la sold and
colouxa, S vols, super-royal Svo, half bouad, uncut (pub. at 4/. 10*.), 3/. lOt.
■ the same, large paper, S vols, royal 4to, half bound, uncut (pub. at lOl, lOt.), 6/. 6s
FROISSARTS CHRONICLES, WITH THB 74 ILLUMINATED ILLUSTRATIONS
INSERTED, S vols, auper-royal tvo, elegantly half bound red morocco, gilt edgea, emble-
matically tooled (pub. at 6L te.}, *L 10*. 1S49
GAZETTEER.-NEW EDINBURGH UNIVERSAL GAZETTEER. AND GEOGRA-
PHICAL DICTIONARY, mora complete than any hUberto pnbliahed. New Edition, nvimd.
and completed to the present time, by Johv Tbomsov (Editor of the Univenal Atttu^ ftc),
verv thick 8vo (1040 pages), Maps (pub. at 18«.), cloth, 12«.
Tnis comprehensive volume is the latest, and by far the best Universal Gaxetteer of Its siae.
It Includes a full account of Affghanistan, New Zealand, ftc ftc
CELL'S (SIR WILLIAM) TOPOGRAPHY OF ROME AND ITS VICINITY. An
improved Edition, complete in 1 vol. Svo, with several Plates, cloth, lU, With a very li
Map of Rome and its Environs (from a most careftil trigonometrical survey), mounted on ch
andfoldedlnacasesoas toformavolume. Together 2 vols. 8vo, cloth. If. l«.
hat is ^
leagre i
, „ jeranr e , , „ ^
anee, and one dear, not only to every scholar, but to every reader of inteUigenoe to whom the
truth ef history is an object of consideration."
imi^oved Edition, complete in 1 vol. 8vo, with^seyeral Pjates, cloth^U*. With a very large
184S
"These volumes are so replete with what Is valuable, that wera we to employ «ar enttro
Jouinal, we could, after all, afford but a meagre indication of their interest and worth. It is,
indeod, a lasting memorial of eminent literanr exertion, devoted to a subject of grant Import-
GILLIES' (DR.) HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS, Relating to Remarkable Periods of the
Success of tbe Gospel, including tbe Appendix and Supplement, with PreCacee aad Con-
tinuation by the Rev. H. Bovax, royal 8vo (pub. at lit, od. ), cloth, 7s. td, 1S45
GLEIG'S MEMOIRS OF WARREN HASTINGS, first Govemor-Oenerml of Bengal, s
vols. 8V0, fine Portrait fpub. at 2L te. ), cl<Uh, 1/. 1«. 1841
GOETHE'S FAUST, PART THE SECOND, as completed in mi, translated into EagUsh
Verse by Johv Macdokau) Bbzx, Esq. Second Edition, fiuip. ivo (pub. at St.), cloth, as.
COLDSMITH'S WORKS, with a Life and Notes. 4 vela. feap. »vo. with engraved Tttlee and
Plates by Stotkakd and Cjivxxshavk. New aad elegant AdUtion (pub. at U.), extra
cloth, 12«. ISM
"Can any anOior— can even Sir Walter Scott, be compared with Goldsmith for the variety,
beauty, and power of his compositions r You may take him and * cut him out in little atars,* ao
many iighU does be present to the Imafrination."— W^Aentfum.
"Tlie volumes of Goldsmith will ever constitute one of the moat preclocu 'wells of BaetHi
nndefiled.'"— Quar^eWy^OTno.
GORDON'S HISTORY OF THE GREEK REVOLUTION, and of the Wan and Cam.
paiffns arising ft-om the Struggles of the Greek PatrioU in emanclpatlng-thcir country from the
Turkish yoke. By the late Thomas Gordok, General of a Division of the Greek Anar.
lecond Edition, S vols, svo. Maps aad Plans (pub. at U. Ite. ), cloth, Ite. fid. lats
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QOftTON'S BIOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY, S thick toIi. Svo, cloth l«tt«rcd (pnb. m
2/. 2«.)tW•"«.w•
GBAflVlLLE8 (OR.) SPAS OF ENGLAND wd Principal Sm Btthhig Plieei. 9 to!*.
pott 8V0,' with larve Map, aad upwards of M beautiful Woodcnto (pub. at U. ISt.), cloth. Uf.
It41
GRANVILLE'S (DR.) SPAS OF GERMANY, Iro, vitfa » Woodcuts and Mapa (pub. ac
18..), cloth, 9#. IWJ
HALL'S (CAPTAIN BASIL) PATCHWORK, eon>istinr of TraTcIs, and Adventures In
Switzerland, Italy, France, Sicily, Malta, ke. 3 vols, Uoio, Second Edition, cloth, fUt (pub. at
HEEREN'S (PROFESSOR) HISTORICAL WORKS, translated from tho Gorman, vix.-
Asia, New Edition, complete in S vols.— Aprjca, I vol.— Europb akd its CoLOiaBfl, t
vol.— AncisiiT Grescb, and Historicai. Treatisxs, 1 vol Mamval or Aroirvt Bis-
tort. 1 vol.— together 6 vols. 8vo (fbmerly pub. at 7'.)* cloth lettered, uniform. Si. Sf.
*»* New and Canute Editknu, wUh General Indexe$.
. ** Professor Heeren's Historical Researches stand in the very highest rank among those with
which modem Gwrnany has enriched the Literature of Europe."— QH«rf«r<y Jtrvieto.
HEEREN'S HISTORICAL RESEARCHES INTO THE POUTICS, INTERCOURSE,
AKO TRADES OP TBS ANCIENT NATIONS OP AFRICA ; including the CarthaglnlanB,
Etbiopiana, and Egrptlans. New Edition, corrected tliroughoui, with an Index, Lile of the
Author, new AppendiRes, and other Additions. Complete in 1 vol. 8vo, cloth, 16«. I860
HEEREN'S HISTORICAL RESEARCHES INTO THE POLITICS, INTERCOURSE,
AND TRADES OP THE ANCIENT NATIONS OF ASIA; including the Persians, Phv-
nicians, Babylonians, Scythiank, and Indians. New and Improved Edition, complete in S
vols. 8vo, elegantly printed (pub. originally at 2^ M.), cloth, 1^ la. 1846
<* One of the most valuable acquisitions made to our historical stories since the days of
Qihhan,"-Atkenaunu
HEEREN'S MANUAL OF THE HISTORY OF THE POLITICAL SYSTEM OF
EUROPE AND ITS COLONIES, from lU formation at the close of the Fifteenth Century,
to its re-estahHshment upon the Fall of Napoleon, translated from the Fifth German Edition.
New EdIUon, complete in 1 vol. ftvo, cloth, U*. 184fi
«*The best History of Modem Europe that has yet appeared, and it la Ukely long to remain
without a rivaJ."— W<A«ii*wiit,
''A work of sterling value, which will dilTnse usefiil knowledre for generations, after all the
shallow pretenders to that distinction are fortunately forgotten."— Ii/erery GmzetU.
HEEREN'S ANCIENT GREECE, translated by Barcrovt; and HISTORICAL
TREATISES; viz:— 1. The Political Consequences of the Reformation. II. The Rise, Pro-
gress, and Practical Influence ofPolitical Tlieories. III. The Rise and Growth of tlie Conti-
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HILL'S (REV. ROWLAND) MEMOIRS, by his Friend, the Rev. W. Joirss, Edited, with
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DAWMII LEXICON GR>ECUM, HOIVtERtCUM ET PINDARICUM. CnraDirxcAx.
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HOLIDAY LIBRARY, Edited by Wiuiak HASLm. Vnlfonnly priotad In S vols, plates
<»«h. St itfc Cd.Keloth« Ite 6ri., or soparataly, ▼ls;>-Orphan of Waterloo, 8«. «dL Holly
Qmm^U^U, laeaaiti •f Bwhaaahlt aad Faliy Talea, Is. M. liu
HOWITT8 (WILUAM) «IACK OF THE. MIU. S wala, u«o (pob. at iK.), eloUi gilt.
7s. ad. . 1844
HOWITTS (MARY) CHILD'S PICTURE AND VERSE BOOK, eommoaly called
•* Otto Speektec's Fable Book:" translatod late Enallsh Verse, with French aad Oenaan
Vtrsca opposHa, fonnlac a Trtelott, aqMsre Unao, wUh IW laif* Wood Eaffravioga (pub. st
XOi. 6d.). extra Turkey cloth, glTi edges. S«. *^ 1S45
This Is one of the moat elegant JuTenlla books orer produced, and baa the aoTalty of being in
three languages.
LAMB'S TALES FROM SHAKSPEARC, deataaedpiinclptfljrfBrthouaaofToangPenoBs
(written by Miss snd Charlbs Lamb). Sixth Edition, embellislied with Mlargaaad beaatfful
Woodeiit BngiBTfaiga, flnom designs by Habtbt, fcsp. Bvo (pob. at 7s. 6d.), cloth gilt, St. I84S
** One of the most useAii and agreeable eempanlons to the understanding ofShakspeare which
ka*e been produced. The yontbrul reader who is about to taste the chams of our great Bard,
Is strongly recoauaaBded to pcepaio himsolf by flratraadlBg these elegank talaa." — QmtrUrty
Mttwiew,
t. E. L TRAITS AND TRIALS OF EARLY LIFE. ASerieaofTalesaddiaaeedto
Young People. By L. B. L. (Miss Labsow). Fooftk Edition, fbap. 8to, with a beautiful
Portrait Engraved en Steel ( pub. at 5t. ), gilt cloth, St. 1S45
UHIDON'S (MRS.) ENTERTAIN1NQ NATURALIST, beteg popular D«ierhtlons.
Tales and Anecdotes of more thaa 50* Animals, comprehending all the tluadrapeds. Birds,
riabcs. Reptiles, Insects, kc. of which a knowledge Is Indispensable In Polite Edueatlhn;
Ilustoated by upwards of MO beautUtei Woodcuts, by Bswzok, Ha&tbt, WIukpbb, snd
olhan, poet 8to, gilt chrth, 7t. M . 1850
MARTIN AND WESTALL'S PICTORIAL HISTORY OF THE BIBLE, the letter-
Sreas by the Rev. Hobabt CAVKTEBi 8to, 1M extremely besutlfyil Wood Engravings by the
rst Artiste (incladtng reduced copies of Mautiv's celebtated Pictures, Beishassar^s Feast,
Tha Doluga, FaU of Ninavoh, fta.), ekrtli lAU, giU adgea, reduced to Us. Wkalo boond mor.
rkhly gtlt, glH edges, ist. ists
A most elegant present to young people.
PARt.ErS (PETERy WONDERS Of. HISTORY. Square iflmo, nuneraua Woodcuts
(pub. at Ci. ), cloth, gilt edges, St. 6d. 1846
PKROY TALES OF THE KINGS OF ENGLAND; Stories of Camps and Battla-Flelds,
win, and VIctoriea (modemlzed flrom Holixsubd, FmorasAUT, and the other Chroaldcrs),
9 vols, in 1, square l2mo. (Parley size.) Fbnrth Edition, considerably improved, completed
to the present time, embellished with 16 exceedingly beautlnil Wood Engravings (pub. atdi.),
cloth gilt, gilt edges, St. 18M
This beautiful volume has enjoyed a large share of success, and deservedly.
ROBNHOOD AND HIS M£RRY FORESTERS. By Snraair Pbrct. Square lano,
S Illttstratioas by Oilbbbt (pub. at U.)^ cloth, St. fid., or with coloured Plates, U. ISJS
STRICKLAND'S (MISS) EDWARD EVELYN, aTaleof theRebelUonofms: to which b
added "The Peaaaat'a lUe," by JxnBmvs Tatxak, teuf* *^ * A** FlaiteB (iiub.«t&i.),
elethfilt. It. fld. ists
By tho popukur Amther of4ha Uvoa of tlte«
7t>MKIN*8 BEAUTIES OF ENQUSH POETRY^ aeleoted for tha Use of Youth, snd
designed to Inculcate the Practice of Virtue. Twentieth Edition, with considerable additions,
rural lana, ve^ alagattljr prlatad, vMh a boanttftdFtaatkpieco after HiUtrsT, elagaatgllt
ediaa,St.dd. 1847
WOOD-NOTES FOR ALL SEASONS (OR THE POETRY OF BfRDS), a Series of
Songs and Poems for Young People, eontiibuted by Barkv Coubwali., W«iu)awoaTH,.
MttOUB, COLBlUSeB, CAtfPBBLL, JOAVKA BAtLLIB, EUZA CoOK, MaBT HOWITT, HBS.
HsaiAxs, Hogg, Chabi.ottb Smith, &c. fcsp. 8vo, very prettily printed, withlS beautifU
Wood Engravings (pub. at St* <dw), doth, gilt edgea, St. I8«t
YOUTH'S (THE) HANDBOOK OF ENTERTArNING KNOWLEDGE, m a Serisa of
Familiar Conversations on the most interesting productions of Natum and Art, and on other
iBstrucsive Topica of Polite Education. By a Lady (Maa. PAXAiasx, the SIsivr of Captain
MnuiTAi), f vole. fcap. tvo, Woodcuts (pub. at ite.), cloth gilt, U* 1844
This is a very clever and lastruetlve book, adanted to tht, capacltlw of yos'if paaplgyeathe
plan of the Conversations on Chembtry, Mineraiog}', Botai.r, «c.
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£Vlvi%it an& i^ttstcal seaarfcs.
THE MUSICAL LIBRARY. A Mcelion of flie bwt Toeal and Imtnanmtel Miuie, teth
Bnslbb and Foreign. Sdited by W. Atktov, Em. of tbm Ofmtf Houm. 8 volt, folio, com-
pKbending more thjui 400 ptecM of Mudc, besutlniUy printed with meUUie types (pub. «l
4<. 4f.). ««wedt 1M1«. W.
Tbe vocal and Initrumental maj ba kMt aepanUdyt wdi IB 4 TOls. 181.
MUSICAL CABINET AND HARMONIST. A CoIlectlMi of CkMlcal and Pomilar Vocal
and iMtnimental Music: comprislBg <8al«e1loas fkvm the beat produetlonB oT all the Great
" "• ^ — ^--.-^ w_.^-*_ ^^^^ jjjyyjy of_tha National Ai» of other
" " *■* * Oallopades; also
Piano-forte, the
^, ,. -.__ „ . . , under the superin-
tendence of an eminent Professor. 4 vols, small folio, comprahendiac mora thaa «00 piaess of
Music, beauttfnlly printed with metallic types (pub. at JL ai.), seared, I6«.
The great sale of the Musical LlbrMy, in consequence of Its extremely low price, bas induced
tbe Advertiser to adopt the same plan of selling the present capital selection. As the contents
are quite different from the Musical Libraiy, and 'tlie Intriaile nerit of the Mlaction is eqval,
the work will no doubt meet With similar luccass.
MUSICAL GEM ; a Oolleetion of soo Modem Songa, Duets, Gleea, ke, by the most celebrated
Composers of the present day, adapted for the Voice, Flute, or Violin (edited by Joh w Parry),
3 vols, in 1, 8vo, with a beautifillly engraved Title, and a very richly illomiaated Frontispiece
(pub. at lLU.h cloth silt, lOt. 6d. 1841
The above capital eolleetion contains a great munber of the beet copyright placea, Includinf
aome of the most popular songs of Braham, Bishop, &c It fbrms a moet attactlve volume.
iWelrtcftte. Sburgerg, anatemg, aDJemfettp,
BARTON AND CASTLE'S BRITISH FLORA MEDICA; Or. History of the Medteiaal
Planu of Great Britain, 2 voia. Svo, upwards of aOO finely coloured figures of Plants (pub. at
S{.8«.), cloth, H. 16a. 1845
An exceedingly cheap, elegant, and valuable work, necessary to every medical practitioner.
BATEMAN AND WILLAN'S DELINEATIONS OF CUTANEOUS DISEASES.
4to, containing 72 Plates, beauti(UIly and very accurately colotu'ed under the superintendence
of an eminent Professional Gentleman (Dr. CAKSwau), (pub. at 121, Ut.), half bound mor.
2LU. M40
**Dr. Bateman*s valuable work baa done mora to extend the knowledge of cutaneous diseases
than any other that has ever appeared."— Dr. A. T. J%amjuom,
BEHR'S HAND-BOOK OF ANATOMY, by BinKBn(Demonstnlar al Ovy'a Hospital),
thick l2mo, closely printed, cloth letteied (pub. at lOt. 6d.), S«. 6d. 1846
BOSTOCKS (DR.) SYSTEM OF PHYSIOLOGY, comprising a Complete View of the
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BURNS'S PRINCIPLES OF MIDWIFERY, toitli and beirtadltlon, thick Svo,eloth lettered,
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CELSUS DE MEDICINA. Edited by B. MnxxoAir, H.D. cum Indies copiosisslmo ex edit.
TMwae. Thidk Svo, FrontUpieee (pub. at 16t.), doth, te. 1831
This Is the very best edition of Celsus. It contains critical and aedleal notes, applicable to
the prsctice of this country: a parallel Table of ancient and modem Medical terms, svnonymes,
weighta, measures, fte. and, indeed, everything which can be uaefiil to the Medical Student;
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HOPE'S MORBID ANATOMY, royal Svo, wifli 48 highly finished coloured Plates, contain-
ing 260 aocniBte Dallaeattona of Cases In ea«Tr known \ariely of Dlsasee (pub. at 6L bs,\,
cieth,8f.afc 1834
LAWRENCE'S LECTURES ON COMPARATIVE ANATOMY. PHYSJOLOgY,
ZOOLOGY, AND THB NATURAL HlfiTOBT OF MAN. New Edition, post Svo, with a
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LAWRENCE (W.) ON THE DISEASES OF THE EYE. TWrd Edition, revised md
enlarged. Svo (830 closely printed psges), (pub. at 1^. 4f.), cloth, 10s. 6d. 1844
LEY'S (DR.) ESSAY ON THE CROUP, Svdi, 6 PUtes Ipvib, at i&i.), cloth, u, fid. 1836
LIFE OF SIR ASTLEY COOPER, interspersed with his Sketches of Distinguished Cha-
racters, by BXAVSBY Cooper. 2 vols. Svo, with fine Poztrait, after Sir Thomss Lawrence
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NEW LONDON SURGICAL POCKET-BOOK, thick rojalllmo (pub. at m.), hf.bd.^.
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SINCLAIR^ ISIR JOHN) OWJE OF HEALTH AND LONGEVITY; Sixth B4it>en.
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rrEPHENSpNS MEDICAL ZOOLOGY AND MINERALOGY; including also «o
account of the Aaiaal and Minenl Pol«)ns, 45 coloured Plates, royal 8vo (pub. at U. It.),
cloth, I^ U. 1838
TYRRELL ON THE DISEASES OF THE EYE, being a Practical Work on their Treat-
ment, Medically, Topically, and by Operatloa, by F. Tranxi,!,, Senior Surgeon to the Roya!
London Ophthalmic Hospital. 8 thick vols. 8to, Ulustxated by 9 Plates, containing upwanU of
60 finely coloured figutes (pub. at 1/. I6«.), cloth, l^ ic IMO
WOODVILLE'S MEDICAL BOTANY. Third Edition, enlarged by Sir W. Jacxsoit
HooXEiu i vols. 4to, with 310 Plates, Engraved by Sowerby, most carefully coloured (puh.
at lot. 10«.)i hairbound morocco, U, S*. The Fiftli, or SupplemenUry Volume, entirely by Sir
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boards, IL lU. id, " iist
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BRADLEY'S GEOMETRY, PERSPECTIVE, AND PROJECTION, for the tiic of
Artiats. 8 Plates and numerous Woodcuts (pub. at 7*. )» eloth, 5«. 1M6
CUCUD'S SIX ELEMENTARY BOOKS. bT Dr. Laxdnxk, with an Explanatory Com-
mentary, Geometrical Exercises, and a Treatise on Solid (Geometry, 8to, Ninth sdition,
cloth, C«.
EUCLID IN PARAGRAPHS : The Elements of Euclid, containing the first Six Books, and
the first Twenty~«ie Propositions of the Eleventh Book, Mmo, with the Planes shadedTiPub.
at 6«. ), cloth, 3«. 6d, C*Mi. 1843
JAMIESON'S MECHANICS FOR PRACTICAL MEN, including Treatises on the Com-
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trated by Examples and Designs. Fourth Edition, ffreatiy hnprared, 8vo (pub. at ist.i,
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**▲ great nMhanlcal treasore."— i>r. BirJtbeck.
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JOYCE'S SCIEHrriFIC DIALOGUES, enlarged by Pihvocx, for the InstrucUon and
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William Pikkocx, completed to the present state of knowledge (600^ peges), numerous
Woodcttts, 9<.
«TURM'S MORNING COMMUNINGS WITH GOD, or Devotional Mediuaona for
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CHILUNGWORTHS RELIGION OF PROTESTANTS. 500pp.3«.6d.
GARY'S TRANSLATION OF DANTE. (Upwards of 600 pages), extra blue cloth, vith «
richly gUt back, 7*. 6d. 1847
MAXWELL'S VICTORIES OF THE BRITISH ARMIES, enlarged and improved, ana
brought down to the present time; several highly finished Steel Portraitt, and a Fkontispieee.
extra gUt cloth, 7«. 6d. 1847
MICHELETS HISTORY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION, transuted oycCocxi,
3 vols, in 1, 4f.
DOBINSON CRUSOE, including his further Adventures, with a Lifs of Defoe, ftc. upwanM
of 60 fine Woodcuts, from designs by Uarvet and Whimpex, 5i.
STARLING'S (MISS) NOBLE DEEDS OF WOMAN, or Examples of Female Conn* .
Fortitude, and Virtue, Third Edttion. enlarged and improved, with two very beautinil FronUf •
pieces, el^^ant in cloth, 8«. IBM
iiOirpov; PMjnao >t uxxMxaow aid »ev, st. vaatdt*! lajra.
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