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ROSES

The Rambler hybrids are unsurpassed for house or pillar decoration
This is the Dawson, with bright pink flowers, produced in June

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AND HOW TO GROW THEM

A Manual for Growing Roses in the

Garden and Under Glass

ILLUSTRATED

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NEW YORK

Doubleday, Page & Company

1910

Doubleday, Page & Company

Published, June, 1905

including the Scandinavian.

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PREFACE

All that is really necessary for the amateur
rose grower to know in order that he may

intelligently make a rose garden, select his
varieties and grow the harvest of bloom, is
told in this volume. Many books on the
rose are more bulky, but the additional matter

not of an essential character. In thi

volume everything not directly to the point

of practical rose growing for the American
amateur is omitted.

The writings of several expert amateur
rosarians which have appeared in The Garden

Magazine and Country Life in America, have
been drawn upon freely in the preparation of
the text; notably articles by Dr. Robert Huey
and Mr. Aaron Ward for the outdoor culti-

vation. Mr. Leonard Barron provides the
chapters on "Roses for Special Purposes" and
" Roses Under Glass " — excepting the section
dealing with American Beauties, which is by
Mr. Henry Hentz, Jr.

268964

VI PREFACE

Acknowledgments are due to Prof. B. M.
Watson for information on propagation; and
to Professor Slingerland for information on
insect pests; Prof. Byron D. Halsted is
quoted on fungous diseases. Suggestions
have also been received from Mr. L. B. Craw

and from Mr. J. A. Payne, in regard to
greenhouse construction, and from Mr.

George H. Peterson in regard to the applica-
tion of natural and artificial fertilizers.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

PAGE

I. When, Where, and How to Plant

II. The Routine of Work .

III. Pruning

IV. Insects, Diseases, and Spraying .
V. The Rosarian's Calendar

VI. Roses for Cut Flowers Under Glass

VII. Types and Races ....

VIII. Roses for Special Purposes .

IX. Roses of American Origin

Index . . . . .

47
69

124

165

179

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Rambler Rose for House Decoration Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

How To Make a Rose Bed

Four First-class Garden Roses

Two of the Best Hybrid Tea Roses .

Killed by a Sucker ....

A Low-budded Plant ....

A High-budded Plant ....

How to Plant and Prune

Spring Pruning for Quantity of Bloom

Pruning Rosa Rugosa ....

Beating the Commoner Insect Pests

Portraits of Favourite Roses

Reine Marie Antoinette as a Trellis Rose

Standard Roses in a Famous Garden

Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriers

A Close View of the Altai Rose .

How Tender Roses Flourish in the Warmer

States

A Hybrid Tea Rose as Grown Under Glass

A Modern Even-span Rose House

A Modern Three-quarter-span Rose House

27
29

59
61

64
66

7i
86

93
96

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Spraying Roses Under Glass for Red Spider

The Best Rose for Hedges and Seaside
A Nearly Single Form of the Provence Rose
Rosa Blanda in Shrubbery Foreground .
An Ideal Rose Bed for Flowers, and One of the

Best H. P.'s ......

The Altai Rose in Shrubbery Plantings
The Only Type of Rose Fit for a Lawn .
Two Most Popular Roses ....

The Prairie Roses for Covering Tree Trunks
Roses Grown as Vines ....

A Garden of Roses and Herbaceous Plants
Rosa Setigera in the Wild Garden .

Pruning Diagrams

107
114

121

132

135

141

144

IS©
162

173
176

Pages 36, 37, 40, 41

ROSES

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ROSES

CHAPTER

When, Where and How to Plan

The site — Best exposure — Making the best of other con-
ditions— Why low ground is to be avoided — The soil
Must be well drained — Preparation of the soil —
Manure — Laying out the beds — Preparing to plant
on a lawn — Soils for different groups — Treatment of
newly arrived plants — Spring planting best — How to
plant — Budded or own-root plants — Planting from
pots.

The ideal site for a rose garden is airy but
sheltered (especially from the biting winds of
winter), open to the sun some part of the day,
quite free from the influence of large or

growing trees, and preferably a little above
the general level of the rest of the garden.

must not be the lowest spot. A southern
exposure is desirable, and, if it is necessary to

make a choice, the morning sun is best.
Partial shade will do less harm to dark-red

roses than to roses of other colours. Some

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ROSES

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protection from high winds is good, but not
at the cost of having a close, stuffy location.

The beginner in rose growing will do well
to weigh carefully the advantages and disad-
vantages of available sites. The soil may be
poor and unsuitable. We can change that
by taking away the present soil and filling in
with soil from the meadow. Drainage and
shelter can be provided, but if an error has
been made in the site, all these accessories
will avail little.

Low grounds are more subject to late spring
frosts than adjacent places only a few feet
higher, and late spring frosts are much to be
dreaded after the tender shoots of the rose
bushes have put forth. While shelter from
high winds is very desirable, it must not be
secured
beds.

trees whose roots can reach the

The roots of growing trees may

regarded as spreading from the trunk for at
least a distance equal to the height of the tree.

Thus if a tree is sixty feet high the rose bed
should be at least that distance away;
nearer, the tree roots will revel in the enriched
soil of the bed and appropriate the food

needed for the roses.

If th

must

made nearer than this it may be protected

TO MAKE A ROSE BED

Dig three feet deep; throw away the bad soil; put in broken bricks or
stones for drainage; then some inverted sods; then alternate layers of well-
rotted manure and loam; finally a foot of loam. When planting spread the
roots and work the soil thoroughly

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT

from encroachment of the tree root by sinking
a four-and-one-half-inch brick wall below the

bottom of the bed and building up to near the
surface. But this is troublesome and expen-
sive. A fence of hemlock plank will do well
for some years, but the roots will eventually
find their way through.

It is not to be inferred that roses will grow
only under these ideal conditions. Reason-
ably good plants and blooms can be attained
in much less favorable situations. Many
village gardens containing only a few feet of
ground, and shaded for at least half of the
day, yield flowers that are a delight to the

growers and their friends; but happy is he
who has the opportunity of selecting the best
place for a rose garden and does it.

THE SOIL AND WHEN TO PREPARE IT

The best soil is a deep loam. Well-drained
ground is essential and the site should never
before have been used for roses, unless fresh
earth is substituted for the old. /

Roses abhor wet feet, and if the soiL*s"wet

it must be thoroughly drained. This can
usually be accomplished by digging out the

bed to a depth of three feet and filling in one

ROSES

foot with broken stone, bricks, cinders, gravel,
or anything that will permit a free passage
of water.

If this is not sufficient and the water is not
carried away quickly, provision must be made

for this by tile draining, but except in very
extreme cases, the drainage before mentioned
will be sufficient.

At least three months before planting — to
allow time for settling — the soil for the beds
should be dug to the depth of two feet and
liberally enriched with well-rotted manure;
preferably with cow manure, though horse
manure is good.

MAKING BEDS

The size which the beds shall be made is
governed by the certain considerations of
convenience in after years. All the bushes
must be readily reached without leaving the
walks; the surface of the beds must be access-
ible in every part for frequent cultivation, and
the expense and labour of cultivating unneces-
sary space should be avoided.

With the exception of the climbers and the
Rugosas (which ought not to be planted in
the beds at all), a space of twenty-one inches

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT

from plant to plant is sufficient to meet the
above requirements. Accordingly rose gar-
dens are usually laid out in parallelograms of
any length, but with the width limited to five
feet. Such a bed should contain three paral-
lel rows, twenty-one inches apart, the outer
rows twelve inches from the edge. The paths
between beds should be not less than five feet

in width, to admit of the passage of the water
arrel. If more space is available, this width
of path, as well as the space between the
individual plants, could be increased to
advantage. The paths look best if in grass,

but well-rolled cinder paths are good and
save troublesome weeding. They are the
best for wet weather.

Beds for Hybrid Perpetuals made with a
width of four feet will usually be found most

satisfactory, as a double row can be planted
at intervals of two and a half feet, which will
be sufficient space for the strongest-growing
varieties, and the beds can be worked and
the blooms gathered without the necessity of
trampling the soil.

Space may be economised by setting the
plants not directly but diagonally opposite
each other. They will then be one foot from

ROSES

the edge and thirty inches apart, and each
plant will be fully exposed to the light and
air and will not interfere with its neighbours.
For Teas and Hybrid Teas the width of
the bed may profitably be reduced to even
three feet. The plants can be set eight
inches from the edge and two feet apart,
which will be ample space.

MAKING A BED ON THE LAWN

In preparing a bed on a lawn the sod and
soil should first be entirely removed and
placed apart. The best of the subsoil should
then be taken out and placed on the opposite
side of the trench, and finally the portion to
be discarded, making in all a depth of at least
two feet. The floor should be loosened up
to the full depth of a pick-head, the good sub-
soil replaced and mixed with a generous
dressing of well-decomposed manure (prefer-
ably that from a cow stable). Lastly the sod
should be well broken up and the top soil also
thoroughly enriched with manure, and the
bed filled with good unmanured top soil to
about two or three inches above the adjoining
surface, enough good soil being added to

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT

replace the discarded earth. When the bed
has settled, the surface should be one inch
below that of the adjoining sod, in order that
all rainfall be retained. It is a grave error to
make a rose bed higher than the adjacent sur-
face, as in hot weather the soil dries out and
the plants suffer for want of moisture. If

possible, the bed should be made several
weeks in advance of planting, to allow time
for settling.

SPECIAL SOILS TO BE PROVIDED

The different classes of roses have different

soil requirements, and wherever the best
flowers are sought the beds should be prepared
each for one class rather than mixing all
classes indiscriminately. The Hybrid Per-
petuals require a heavy soil containing some
clay — what is known as a heavy loam answers
admirably — and if this can be obtained from
an old pasture where the growth has been
luxuriant, nothing could be better. The top
spit should be taken with the grass roots and
chopped into very small pieces, care being
taken to bury the grass roots several inches
deep to prevent the possibility of growth. We
want the humus they contain for the roses.

10 ROSES

For Teas, Hybrid Teas, Noisettes and
Bourbons a lighter, warmer soil is desirable.

Three-fourths of the compost already de-
scribed, into which about one-fourth of sand

and leaf-mould has been thoroughly mixed,

will be found entirely satisfactory. It is
important to remember that all the manure

should be incorporated with the lower two-

thirds of the soil. The upper third should
not contain any recently added manure, as j

this will rot the roots of the new plants, which I

should be covered with fine, friable soil. j

When growth begins the roots attract the rich
moisture from beneath and appropriate it as
it reaches them, without any danger of the
roots being burned by fermenting manure

The beds or borders may be edged with
either stone, terra-cotta, cement coping, or
planted with a border of some close-growing
herbaceous plants, such as funkia or some
varieties of lychnis or dianthus. But still bet-
ter, for edging rose borders and other flower
beds in permanent flower gardens, is the old-
fashioned boxwood. The stone edge, or
anything related to it, will be avoided by the
artistic gardener. The beds being prepared,
we are ready for the planting.

KILLARNEY

The best Hybrid Tea rose. Blooms large,

pale pink, shaded deeper

— ■ -~« w^.- -**•—

■

■ ■ ■

ETIENNE LEVET

SUZANNE MARIE DE RHODO-

CANACHI

One of the best Hybrid Tea roses. Deep

French pink, a unique colour

ULRICH BRUNNER

H. P. Fine carmine red, large and of good The most satisfactory H. P. Cherry crimson,

form, but a shy bloomer

large size, develops all blooms well

FOUR FIRST-CLASS GARDEN ROSES

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT II

WHEN TO PLANT

Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas may be
planted in early November, and one need not
hesitate to plant most of the Hybrid Teas and
the hardier Teas at the same time if prepared
to protect them properly after the first frost.
But, as a rule, spring planting of roses gives
the most satisfactory results in the end. The

Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas should be
planted just as soon as the soil is in suitable

condition and the frost out of the ground,

usually about March 25th in the vicinity o
New York. All others are best planted after
April 20th, when the danger of sharp frosts
is past.

HANDLING NEWLY ARRIVED PLANTS

If the plants arrive in a shrivelled con-

dition, soak them thoroughly in water and
bury them completely in a trench, again

soaking them with water. Uncover after
three days and they will usually be found
revived. If the plants arrive in wet weather,
or when the ground is frozen, do not open the
box, but place it in a barn or other dry place
where there is no artificial heat. Cover it
with matting or blankets if the weather is cold.

12 ROSES

case they may be watered again. After the
plants become firmly established, which will
be in one season, there is much less likelihood
of their being injured by the cold.

When the weather is dry and conditions fit for
planting, unpack the roses in a place sheltered
from the wind and sun. From this time on
it is absolutely necessary to avoid undue
exposure of the roots. In sorting out the
varieties while still under cover, use old mats
or straw to keep the roots covered.

With the tender varieties, dormant planting I

out of doors is attended with much risk
because of the inability of these plants to
endure our rigorous winters before becoming
established. Consequently, they need much
more protection than the hardy sorts. Where
the thermometer reaches 150 below zero it is
better to defer planting until the early spring,
provided the plants can be safely housed
during the winter. This can be done
digging a Vlt about fifteen inches in depth
in a dry, cold cellar or outhouse and packing
the dormant plants in it, covering roots and
tops with fine earth. After one good soaking
with water they may be safely left until early
spring unless they become very dry, in which

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 1 3

Tender roses, planted on or about April
20th, may have thrown over them a few loose
andfuls of old hay, or other light covering,
to protect from possible late frosts and
from the glare of the sun. After about ten
days this shelter may be removed. The hardy
roses do not need even this.

HOW TO PLANT

is best to unpack the plants under the
cover of some convenient shed, and to take

to the beds, at one time, no more than can
be properly protected nearby or promptly
planted. During this move some people

protect the roots by dipping them in mud;
others carry the plants about in pails with the
roots immersed in water. All these precau-
tions are taken to avoid the immediate and
very harmful drying action of the sun, and
especially of the wind, upon the fibrous roots
of the plants. Hence the first rule for plant-
ing is to wait for dry soil and to select, if pos-
sible, a calm, cloudy day.

Too deep and too shallow planting are

equally damaging; the first is certain to kill
the plant by rotting the stem, and the second

14 ROSES

s to spindly, unsatisfactory growth,

5 exposing the roots to serious strain in

high winds, which dry out the soil to a remark-
able degree. The success of Mr. Prince in
England with shallow planting should not
govern us in the climate of America, where
the trials of the winter are more rigorous.

Moreover, in the case of budded stock,
deep planting has this added advantage, that

the upper part will develop roots of its own
and in time become independent of the stock

which carried it.

The planting can be done by one person,
but two working together will accomplish

relatively much more and do better work;
one holding the plant and the other filling in.

In planting a long row, it will save time to
trench out the site with a wheel hoe to a
depth slightly greater than is require
Measure off and stake out the rose places,
plant, and fill in.

BUDDED VS. OWN-ROOT PLANTS

Garden roses can be obtained from the deal-
ers grown in two ways, either on their own
roots or budded on the Manetti or brier stock.

■

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 1 5

There is some difference of opinion as to the
relative values of "budded " and " own-root "
roses. The advocates of the latter declare
that the wild wood will sooner or later choke

and kill the budded growth. This point is

well taken if we admit the necessity of per-

mitting the wild growth to develop, but
planting has been correctly done wild woo
rarely breaks out. If it does, as it happens

in exceptional cases, it can be easily dis-
tinguished and readily removed. The Man-
etti suckers nearly always push up outside
of the plant and are covered with minute

prickly spines. Suckers of the brier stock
bear seven serrated leaves instead of the usual
number of five, and so are easily identified.
If a shoot is suspected of being wild, positive
proof is easy to get. Remove the earth care-
fully, and follow the shoot down to the point
of union with the rest of the plant; if this is
below the bud, the shoot is a sucker and must

e removed. Cut it off close and rub the
wound with a little moist earth. Perhaps

1 per cent, of the roses in a well-cared-for

garden will push out wild wood in a year,
but in a badly tended garden a much greater

proportion will appear — the result of too

l6 ROSES

shallow planting. This is probably the only

valid objection that can be urged against
budded roses.

The most experienced amateurs, as exem-
plified by Dr. Huey, put their faith in budded

roses, in whose favour much can be said.
They are much more vigorous, produce finer

blooms, come into bearing sooner, and last
just as long, if not longer. Budded roses
give a fair amount of bloom the first season
after planting, and each subsequent year
adds to their vigour and beauty. Dr. Huey

in 1887 made a bed of budded roses, and

eighteen years after he reported in Country

Life in America (March, 1905) that four had
died, the others being still vigorous and
healthy, although the soil had not been
changed. Adjoining this bed, twenty-four

strong own-root plants of Ulrich Brunner
were planted ten years later, and at the time
of the report, nine of them had died, while of
the twelve budded Brunners immediately

adjacent all were still flourishing. From
this it is reasonable to infer that budded roses
are at least as hardy as those grown on their
own roots.

must be admitted, however, that some

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT IJ

of the stronger-growing varieties do very
well on their own roots, notably Ulrich Brun-
ner, Magna Charta and Caroline Testout,
but many fine varieties are utterly worthless
unless budded, such as Viscountess Folkes-
stone and Reine Marie Henriette.

There is a question as to which stock is

most suited to our hot, dry climate. So far
the Manetti has proven the best for most
varieties, and the Messrs. Dickson bud most
of their plants for export to America on this
stock.

The English growers favour the brier, and
the great majority of roses budded in England
are grown on this stock. This is quite right
and proper for the moist, temperate English

climate, but not so suitable for ours. It is
very probable that the best stock for our use

as not yet been introduced, and equally
probable that when found it will be a seedling
of Crimson Rambler. The hardiness and
great vigour of this variety, which does well
almost everywhere, commend it highly.

The budded plants grown in Europe are
taken up as soon as the wood is ripened in the
autumn and shipped to us in the dormant
state in time for planting before the ground

l8 ROSES

is frozen. They are usually received in such
excellent condition that rarely one in a hun-
dred of the hardy sorts fails to make good
growth and a fair bloom in the following

season.

PLANTING BUDDED ROSES

Before planting, each plant should be
examined, all broken roots cut off cleanly

with a sharp knife, and all eyes that can be
detected on the stock — i. e., the portion below

the bud — should be removed. If this is not

done, the eyes will push out and suckers will
develop from them. One difference in ap-
pearance between a sucker and a root is this:
the sucker swells the farther it is from the
stem, and the root tapers the farther it is from
the stem.

ole large enough to accommodate a

its roots without crowding should be made
for each plant. The collar or point where
the bud was inserted and from which the new

growth starts should be placed not less than
two inches nor more than three inches below
the surface of the soil, the roots spread out

carefully, nearly horizontally, but inclining
downward, taking care that no two roots

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WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 1 9

cross each other on the same level. If two

have grown so that one must lie above the
other, the earth must be carefully packe

between; all the roots having been covered
with fine soil free from fresh manure, the hole
should be almost filled up and the soil firmly
packed. This is very important, and the
foot of a man of ordinary weight is not too
heavy to accomplish the work well. Water
the roots freely, and when the water is ab-

sorbed fill up to the bed level, and see that

the union of the stock is where it belongs,
two inches below the surface.

When all the plants have been placed, level
the surface with a rake, cover with a top-

dressing of about three inches of rough
manure, and if planting is done in autumn,

cut the long wood back to about one foot to
prevent the plant being whipped and loosened

high winds. This extra wood is left to
encourage root action, and should be cut
back to two or three eyes as soon as the
dormant eyes begin to show in the spring.

PLANTING ROSES FROM POTS

Several American dealers start a large
number of imported budded plants in pots

20 ROSES

for sale in the spring, thus obviating with the
tender varieties the damage of winter killing.
An objection to this is the crowding of the
large roots that cannot be spread out in plant-
ing without endangering the life of the plant,
but good plants may be obtained in this way,
although the bloom is not so fine nor the
growth so strong during the first year. In
setting out pot-grown plants, either budded
or on their own roots, it is important to get

them into the beds as soon as all danger of
seyere frost is over, in order that the plants
may be firmly established before the heat of
summer. Roses planted late in the season
never do well, as they cannot attain sufficient
vigour to withstand the burning heat of our
summer sun.

The holes need only be made a little larger
than the pot in which the plant is grow-
ing. Choose a cloudy day, in the afternoon,

and after making the hole, knock the pot
off by inverting the plant and striking the
edge sharply on a firm substance. The
handle of a spade, which has been fixed in
the ground in an upright position, will answer
the purpose. Fill the hole with water, press
the ball of earth between the hands to loosen

WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 21

the particles, and insert to the required
depth, budded plants as previously directed,
and own-root plants about half an inch deeper
than when in the pot. Fill in with soil and
pack the earth around firmly. Pot-grown
plants will require staking if the varieties are
of upright growth.

CHAPTER II

The Routine of Work

Cultivation in spring — Suckers and how to know them
Feeding — How to cut — Advantages of disbudding
The summer mulch — Making snug for winter — Fer-
tilisers and manure — Propagation.

The beds once properly made and planted,

constant and regular cultivation is the se-

cret of successful rose culture. Just before
growth begins in the spring (about April 15th
in New York), the surplus rough manure
should be removed from the beds, and all the

remaining fine particles forked in. Deep
cultivation is not desirable, as the roots are
likely to be injured or broken. Three inches

in depth is quite sufficient to cultivate a bed

that has not been trampled upon. Use a
four-tine digging fork, as it is less apt to cause
injury than a spade. The beds should then

be edged and rake

Throughout the entire season until the
middle of July frequent stirring of the sur-

THE ROUTINE OF WORK 23

face with a hoe and a sharp steel rake is abso-

lutely necessary for all the rose beds. The

soil should never be permitted to become
aked. After a hard rain, when the surface
as been beaten down, it should be loosened

as soon as it is dry enough to work, and should
e kept loosened. This is one of the most

important points in the cultivation of the rose.

SUCKERS

During this cultivation, and at all con-
venient times, keep a sharp lookout for
suckers, which are growths shooting up from
the roots from below the graft. Where the
rose is budded on the brier, as is usually the
case, the difference of foliage is so marked
as to attract attention at once, the brier having
very light green and small leaves as compared
to the rose leaf, and also a gross reddish-white
stem when young. The brier leaf has seven
leaflets instead of only five as the garden roses
have. The suckers should be carefully broken
off at their point of junction with the root, if
this can be done without disturbing the plant.
Otherwise they should be cut off as low in the
ground as the shears will reach. If this detail

24 ROSES

is neglected, the result may be a choice crop
of briers with corresponding shyness of rose
bloom. Manetti stock is more difficult to
detect, as it resembles the rose in leaf,
should not be used as a stock for out-of-door
plants.

LIQUID MANURE

As soon as the flower buds begin to form,
about half a gallon of weak liquid manure
should be poured around each plant weekly
as long as the plant continues to bloom,
good time to apply this is just before a rain,
as it will thus be washed down to the tender,
feeding roots and eagerly appropriated. The
liquid manure should not be too strong.
"Weak and often" is the gardener's motto.
Half a bushel of cow manure to a barrel of

water is about the proper strength. The
liquids collected from the barn and stable,
diluted to the colour of ale, may be used in
the same quantities.

requent syringing with clean water, or
spraying with a hose, when that is accessible,
will do much to keep the leaves in a healthy
condition. This is especially necessary near
a large city, a factory, or a railway where soft

THE ROUTINE OF WORK 25

coal is burned. The floating particles lodging
on the leaves fill up the pores, which are the

lungs of the plant, and unless the foliage is
kept clean the plant will speedily sicken and

the leaves drop prematurely. In extreme
cases in towns it is necessary to sponge the
leaves in order to open the pores, but frequent
syringing under ordinary circumstances will
be sufficient. The frequent showering with

water will also keep insect pests in check,
especially aphis and red spider.

CUT THE FLOWERS FOR MORE BLOOM

When the roses are in bloom, be generous
to your friends. Cut as many as possible
each day. On the plant they soon attain their
full development and fall away. They en-
dure longer when cut and put into water
indoors. Cut in the early morning before the

flowers are fully open. It is better for the

plant to have the flowers picked as freely as
possible, and with as long stems as the growth
will permit, merely observing the precaution

of leaving an outward-growing eye, or per-
haps two for safety, on the stem below the cut.
Where it has been found impossible to pick

26 ROSES

all the roses for use, then the plants should be
gone over daily and all faded flowers removed
to a point at least two eyes below the flowers,
regular practice of this precaution is the
only means of insuring some autumnal bloom
from the Hybrid Perpetuals.

DISBUDDING

For large flowers disbud freely on all free
bloomers and a very much finer effect will be
obtained than in the effort to mature all that
are formed.

Some varieties form large clusters of buds
at the terminal point of the leading shoots, and
if all these buds are allowed to remain the

vigour of the plant is distributed among the
group, so that the best results cannot be

obtained unless one is striving for general
effect. If fine single specimens are desired,

the best bud only should be retained and a
the others removed as soon as they can be
pinched off. The centre bud is usually the
strongest, but as it may possibly be mal-
formed, the most promising bud should be
selected. Rodocanachi, Prince Camille, La
France, Magna Charta, Rosslyn, Clio, Jubilee,

** ^

KILLED BY A SUCKER

Beginners either do not know or neglect the fact that

almost all their roses are budded. Their choice varieties are
overgrown or killed like this

THE ROUTINE OF WORK 27

and Madame Isaac Pereire have this ten-
dency markedly developed.

In the case of the multiflora and polyantha

roses — all the cluster roses, indeed, including
the Noisettes — the object to be attained is

quantity of bloom rather than the large
development of individuals, so disbudding is

not advocated in those cases. Everything
depends upon the desire of the gardener.

WHY AND HOW TO MULCH

When the great heats are on and after the
last cultivation has been given, apply a liberal

mulch of cow manure, or well-spent stable
manure. The object is not to enrich the soil,
but to retain the moisture. Generally this
will suffice until autumn, but in some situa-

tions it may be necessary to water in spite
of this assistance. Remove the surplus mulch
in autumn before putting on the winter pro-
tection, so that the level of the beds may not
be raised too high.

WINTER PROTECTION

With the exception of the Hybrid Per-

petuals, Rugosas, Hybrid Polyanthas (Ram-

28 ROSES

biers) and Wichuraianas, roses are benefited
by protection in the East, and most of them
require it.

The amount of protection being varied

according to the severity of the climate.
Dr. Huey, at Philadelphia, advocates a three-
inch covering of rough manure over the entire

bed as sufficient for all except the tender
Teas, but farther west and north warmer
bed-clothing must be provided. A neat and
effective way for the latter is to surround the
beds with a temporary fence of twelve-inch
chicken wire filled with leaves. These are

easily obtainable and are often troublesome
to dispose of otherwise. Evergreen boughs
make a fair covering, but they are difficult to
obtain in quantity. Corn stalks are fre-
quently used. Leaves, however, answer the
purpose admirably, and a better or more
natural covering it is difficult to get. They
can go into the compost heap in the spring
and become a valuable addition to any new
beds later.

Commander Ward, on Long Island, pre-
pares his roses for winter thus : By November

15th all roses, including the hardy ones, are

to be given a liberal coating of well-rotted

BUDDED LOW

Naturally the strong-growing stock sends up many suckers
which must be removed at once. Watch for this daily

THE ROUTINE OF WORK 20,

manure around the base of the plant, forming
a cone about ten inches high. All shoots o
tender climbers relied upon for next year's
bearing are carefully bent down and buried,
with or without a salt-hay protection over the
earth, according to the degree of hardiness.
All beds except those of hardy roses are then
covered after the first hard frost with a coating
of dried leaves, at least twenty inches in thick-

ness, held in place by wisps of salt hay or
straw, the holding-down material not to be

too heavy. The covering should be com-
pleted usually by Thanksgiving Day, but o

course the final application of leaves will
depend upon the actual date of the first good
frost. Do not cover too soon, nor with
leaves which are wet and soggy or half
rotted. In the spring remove the covering
gradually, none of it as a rule before April
1st, and some should remain until at least
April 20th, to guard against late frosts.
What remains of the manure may be forked
in, being careful, however, not to get the rose
stems buried beyond the proper depth.

In still colder regions it becomes necessary
to protect even the Hybrid Perpetuals. When
this is necessary there is no real pleasure to

30 ROSES

be had from planting the Teas. One success-
ful amateur in the southern part of Ontario
adopts this method for the Hybrids:

Four or five layers of leaves are placed on
the rose bed and close around the bushes after
severe frost in the autumn, rather to prevent
too rapid thawing in the spring than as pro-
tection against the winter's cold.

Standards, which are not often grown, need
much more tender care than the ordinary

low-budded plants of the same varieties. In
Elizabeth Park, Hartford, Conn., where is
the finest public rose garden of the East, they
are dug up bodily each fall and buried in a

straw- or hay-lined trench and covered with

a foot or so of soil. In this way complete
success has been achieved under very trying
climatic conditions. Pillar roses can be win-

tered by being mulched and the whole top,
support and all, wrapped in mats, hay, burlap
or other convenient material.

FERTILISERS

The rose is a strong feeder and must not

be neglected. Each year the beds should
receive a dressing of manure. Indeed ani-

THE ROUTINE OF WORK 3 1

mal manure, from one to two years old, is,
where it can be obtained, the most desirable
of foods for the rose beds. Cow manure is
generally preferred, as it can be used most
liberally without any danger from burning.
Horse manure, when new, is very heating and
should not be used while in this condition

except as a winter mulch. Hog, sheep and
chicken manures are also very useful. The

last two should, however, be used sparingly.
Of the commercial fertilisers, ground bone
is the most useful. This may be obtained
in several degrees of fineness and is often
given in a mixture of grades — fine bone meal,

medium ground bone and coarse crushe

bone in equal parts. This may be use
separately or to supplement animal manures.
After the beds are well dug, scatter the bone
on the surface until the ground is nearly
covered; then, with the use of a fork, it can

be quickly and thoroughly mixed into the
already fined soil.

Nitrate of soda is one of the very best fer-

tilising agents we can employ if it is given
early in the season, and supplemented

bone later. It should be scattered thinly
(say, about a tablespoonful to a plant) on the

32 ROSES

surface of the beds about every five or six
weeks during the growing season.

Dr. A. B. Griffiths recommended, in his
"Special Manures for Garden Crops," a
chemical manure composed of one-half ounce
of superphosphate of lime, and one-quarter
ounce each of iron sulphate and sulphate of
ammonia. These quantities were to be put
into two gallons of water, and the liquid
applied to the roots without wetting the
foliage. In "The Book of the Rose" (third
edition), the Rev. A. Foster-Melliar states that
sulphate of iron is said to give a better colour
to the foliage, and in some sorts, such as Anna
Olivier, to the blooms as well, but he does
not place much reliance upon this. He recom-
mends the following mixture, as prescribed
by Mr. Tonks upon the result of analysis of
the ash left from the burning of rose plants:

Superphosphate of lime 12 parts

Nitrate of potash 10

Sulphate of magnesia 2

Sulphate of iron 1

Sulphate of lime 8

This mixture should be applied in March
and scattered over the previously hoed surface

BUDDED HIGH

Most desirable garden roses are weak growers, and are
therefore usually budded on a strong-growing stock

■

THE ROUTINE OF WORK 33

of the bed at the rate of one-quarter pound

to the square yard. A second and lighter
dressing may be applied at the end of May if
heavy rains have occurred.

PROPAGATION

Many methods are employed in propagat-
ing roses, but the practice here described
commends itself to the amateur because it is
simple and effective. Cuttings can be rooted
in the garden or in the greenhouse. For out-
of-door work they should be made in Novem-
ber, before severe frost, of wood of the current
year's growth. They should be cut into
lengths of six inches, tied into bundles with
tarred rope and buried in sandy soil, eighteen
inches deep, and furthermore protected from
freezing by a covering of leaves. In spring,

when the ground is thawed and settled, they

should be planted in V-shaped trenches in
well-prepared beds, using a little rotted barn-
yard manure. The cuttings should stand

nearly erect and be so deeply planted that
only one bud shows above the surface of the
ground, two inches apart in the row, with the
rows twelve inches apart. In this way many

34 ROSES

desirable hardy roses can be multiplied, e. g.,
Crimson and Yellow Ramblers, the Dawson
Rose, Rosa multiflora, R. Wichuraiana and
all their other progeny, R. setigera, Prairie
Queen and Baltimore Belle, etc., also the
Manetti Rose for stocks upon which the
Hybrid Perpetuals can be budded; but for
the amateur it is best to buy the plants.

When they are grown under glass these
same varieties will give a larger percentage of
rooted plants, if the cuttings are made two or
three inches long, planted in pure sand, in
pots or boxes, and kept in a greenhouse, in a
temperature of 450 F. These cuttings, also,
should be made in autumn, before severe
weather, of wood just completing its growth.
They should be planted thickly, about one-

alf their length deep, and well shaded for
three weeks. Keep the temperature so low
that the buds will not start into growth before
a callus is formed or the cutting is rooted.
The young plants can be set out in May or
early June, either directly from the cutting bed
or after having been established in pots.

■

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♦

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tt&

HOW TO PLANT AND PRUNE

A dormant budded Caroline Testout on Manetti stock. A
Point where bud was inserted. B — Surf ace of ground, showing
how deep to plant. C — About where plant should be cut
back in spring. Always cut above a bud pointing outwards

'"..

■•■-■ .

■ .

■

CHAPTER III

Pruning

Treatment of newly planted stock — Spring the best time
for the work — How to prune — The ideal in view —
Quantity or quality — Where to cut — The winter as an
ally — What not to prune — Autumn pruning — Pruning
rules for all classes.

When roses are planted in the autumn,
prune them as little as possible. All pruning
is best postponed until after February.
Sometimes, however, non-climbing roses will

shoot up at the end of the season in pithy,
worthless stalks or weak streamers, whose

swaying in the high winds is likely to be

injurious to the plants by disturbing the rooi
Such pithy shoots should be cut out altogeth
and the streamers topped off.

The pruning of the hardy roses, climbe

non-climbing, should be completed
the middle of March. Tender roses may be
pruned in early April; the object is to keep
the covering undisturbed as long as possible,

ROSES

but to avoid waiting until the sap is running

freely.

revision of the pruning will have

to take place

May 1st anyhow, but it

should be limited to what is indispensable.

prune

entirely and shortening others if necessary.

Prune back recently planted -roses rather

vigorously. Protect all severe cuts with tree

wax.

The degree of pruning each grower must
decide for himself. If the largest individual

PRUNING

flowers are sought the pruning can hardly
e too severe; but for ordinary garden pur-
poses a moderate cutting will be better.

The stronger the growth of the rose, the
less it should be pruned; many such roses,

too severely cut back, will run to wood
(Margaret Dickson) or die out altogether
(Gloire Lyonnaise).

In pruning, cut out all
the dead wood and weak-

est shoots first.

two limbs make a

cross and are liable to

chafe,

them,

remove

one

remembering

keep the centre of the
plant as clear as possible
to admit the circulation

Now consider

air.

what you have left and
what you want: i

The same plant of Crimson
Rambler, pruned, to be
grown as a bush.

but

few roses of surpassing size, then prune a
vigorous plant to three or four eyes on the
shoot; if you want quantity, leave six eyes,
or even more. If the effect of large masses
is wanted, four or five canes may be retained
three feet in length, and all very old or weak

ROSES

growth should be entirely removed. This
will give a large number of flowers effective

■

in the mass, but small, and with short, weak
foot-stalks, scarcely able to support the weight
of the blooms and not effective as cut flowers.

This sort of pruning is entirely for outside
show. After the bloom is over the canes
should be shortened back at least one-half

so that the plant may make strong wood for
the next season of bloom. Plants pruned in
this way require strong stakes.

If quality is desired, all weak growth

should be removed and every healthy cane
retained and cut back in proportion to the
development of each plant. The weakest
should not have more than four inches o
wood left on the root, while the strongest may
have eight or nine inches.

The canes should be cut off about a quarter

of an inch above an outside bud, and care
must be taken that the wood is not torn nor

the bud bruised. The shoot growing from
the uppermost bud will usually be strong, and
will grow in whatever direction the bud
points. Therefore the highest bud left should
point toward the outside of the plant, that the
head may be open and light and air admitted.

PRUNING 39

Roses pruned in this way do not nee
stakes. They are sufficiently strong and
stocky to hold erect any weight they may be
called upon to bear. They will require very

little summer pruning if the blooms have
been cut, as eight to twelve inches of wood

are removed with each flower. Of course,
the number of blooms will be much reduced,
but the quality of the fine specimens obtained
will amply repay the lack of abundance.

Pruning of Hybrid Teas and Teas may be
profitably left until the first signs of life are
discoverable, as evidenced by the bark becom-

ing greener and the dormant buds beginning

to swell. By that time any dead or dying
wood can readily be detected, thus making it
easier to select what should be removed an
what retained. They do not need such
severe pruning as that prescribed for the
Hybrid Perpetuals; twice the amount of

wood may safely be left if it is promising

Bourbon Roses, as Malmaison and Mrs.
Paul, require very little pruning. If the
weak wood is removed and the strong shoots
shortened a few inches the best results will be
obtained. This class will not bloom on the
new wood.

ROSES

pruning the
generally be found th

weak-growing varieties, it

winter

done most of th

work

little to ch

dy, leaving but

from

case

the very soil, if neces-
sary, to get to sound
wood. If anything
remains at all after

thi

apparent

struction,

these

same plants will be
found to bear pro-
fusely

before

the

season is over.

Rugosas, climbers
and pillar roses

pruned

should

Hybrid Perpetual Rose before

as little as possible,
merely removing the
old wood past bear-
ing, cutting out dead

pruning. (General Jacqueminot) Wood and trimming

back the ends of the
remaining shoots slightly, after training them.

may be stated here that in training a
climbers, you must avoid straight-up training,
or the sap will all tend to the top, denuding

PRUNING

the lower part of the plant. First bend the
shoot in one direction or another, then let it
tend upward if necessary. If a climber has
developed more shoots than it appears able to
support, the weakest may be removed, remem-
bering that in most cases the bloom of any
one year is best on the last year's shoots.

AUTUMN PRUNING

Before the high winds of November begin,

the bushy tops of all canes in the dwarf-
growing varieties should be removed unless

Thi

is is to

they are securely tied to stakes,
prevent the plants from being whipped
the wind and the tender feeding roots from
being broken,
better to leave the
canes about two feet

in length,
plant should not
cut back to the point
suggested for spring

pruning
hot

for

few

The same bush after pruning.

ays will force
out the uppermost eyes, which later will
destroyed in the winter. Enough wood should

42 ROSES

be left to insure the safety of the eyes that are
retained for next season's flowers.

RULES FOR PRUNING

I. Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, Pro-
vence and Moss Roses are best grown as bushy

plants. They should be severely cut bac
while dormant in spring, but never in summer
or early autumn, as is sometimes done be-
cause they are straggling and look unkempt
in an otherwise neat garden. From two-
thirds to four-fifths of last year's wood, and
all weak shoots, are removed. This results in
strong growths, producing large flowers, the
size of which can be increased by disbudding.
If numerous smaller flowers are desired —

i. e., quantity at the expense of quality — the
shortening-in need not be carried so far.

is permissible to cut back only one-half, but

this treatment is objectionable, and does not
tend to keep the plants in good condition.
This winter pruning should be supplemented

a summer pruning, which consists o
simply cutting out the flowering shoots after
the flowers fade. It is already done if all the

blooms have been gathered. Remove weak

Pruned in spring for quality of bloom. A Hybrid Perpetual
rose. Twelve canes from six to eight inches long, each cut
above an outside bud, giving an open centre to the bush

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The same bush eight months later. Showing that severe
pruning does not check growth. Also how bushy tops should
be cut back in autumn to prevent injury by the wind

PRUNING 43

growths and all sprouts from the stock as

they appear. As the plants age, worn-out

stems must be taken out and the centre left
open to encourage new shoots. Some of
these roses are short-lived and must eventually
be replaced. Hybrid Perpetual Roses of

weak habit — e. g., Prince Camille de Rohan

— should be cut back harder than vigorous
growers like General Jacqueminot, but only
when in good health. Hybrid Perpetuals, as a
rule, require the most severe pruning; Moss
and Provence Roses the least.

2. Climbing Roses — the Dawson, Baltimore
Belle, Prairie Queen, Crimson Rambler and

others — need not be pruned so hard as those

above described. Cut off in spring, before
the buds open, from one-fifth to one-third of
the previous year's growth; also, in estab-

ished plants, any of the old, flowering wood

which is enfeebled. Do not hesitate, even

a part of the trellis is laid bare. It is
this means only that these plants can be kept

vigorous. In summer take out most of the

old wood after it has finished flowering an
train new growths as desired, pinching out
weak and objectionable shoots.

Half-Climbing Roses y like the Japanese Rosa

44 ROSES

multiflora (R. polyantha) and its varieties,
the Sweetbriers, R. setigera, the type, and the
Dog Rose, are commonly grown as bushes and

pruned as above described, more attention
being paid to cutting out worn-out stems and
eeping the centres open; but the flowering
wood must not be removed after blooming
where fruit is desired in winter.

railing Roses (R. Wichuraiana and its
varieties) require comparatively little pruning,
particularly in the North, where unfavourable
seasons are apt to kill some of the wood. By
taking out dead branches and cutting back
enough to restore the balance, opportunity is
given for new growths which are essential
to keep them in good condition.

Half-climbing hybrids of this rose — e.

Sweetheart, Debutante, etc., and the old
Ayrshire Roses — R. arvensis (R. repens) and
their varieties — are pruned in much the same
way.

The Briers — the Persian Yellow Rose, Han-
son's Yellow, and Austrian Brier are not

strong growers. One must be cautious with
the knife, cutting out the flowering wood
after the blooms fade. In established plants
the worn-out stems can be removed at any

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PRUNING 45

time. Scotch Roses can be treated in the

same way, and are much benefited by being
cut clean to the ground once in about seven

years. Their habit of spreading by under-
ground stems helps the recovery.

3. Wild Roses, R. blanda, Carolina, lucida,
nitida, etc., are grown not only for the flowers,
but for the bright twigs and hips, in winter.
Consequently much depends upon sturdy
growth. They are frequently planted in
such quantity that careful pruning is impos-
sible. Take out the older wood from time to
time, and at intervals of several years, deter-
mined by their condition, cut clean to the

ground, at the same time give manure, and
reset the plants, discarding the old and feeble.
Rosa rugosa and its variety alba do not

require annual pruning, unless it be a little
shortening-in of the tips — an interminable
operation. After these plants are well estab-
lished, however, the older canes should be
cut out occasionally, thus keeping the centre
free and encouraging new growths. If at
any time they are in bad shape from winter

killing or disease, they can be cut to the
ground. Hybrids of Rosa rugosa, like Mad-
ame Bruant, are helped by spring pruning,

ROSES

cutting back the annual growths, and thin-
ning out old wood.

4. Tender Roses, like the Teas, Chinas, Ben-
gals, and Bourbons, should be cut in at the
beginning of the flowering season, and, since
they are really perpetual bloomers, this

process must be continued as long as the
season lasts. Weak and unproductive shoots
must be removed. Cloth of Gold, Lamarque,
Marechal Niel, and other roses of like habit
are closely pruned after their wood is well
ripened, when they are most at rest. Under
glass, this is usually done just before starting

them into growth. To bloom the Cherokee
Rose in a cool greenhouse in January and
February, four-fifths of the summer's growth
must be cut away in October. Worn-out canes
can be removed at any time. The double-

flowered varieties of R. Banksia are severely
cut back after the blooms have faded, in May
or June in a cool house.

CHAPTER IV

Insects, Diseases and Spraying

Only one really serious pest — Importance of general good
health — Every-day remedies — Water and poisons
The scales — Fungus diseases worse under glass — No
need for despair — When to spray.

INSECTS

Of all the ornamental garden plants, the
rose bush usually suffers the most from insect
pests, although well-grown, healthy roses in
the open air suffer little, except from the rose
bug or beetle, the most formidable enemy
of all.

ose beetle. This is very destructive
allowed to increase. Daily inspection is nec-
essary whenever it appears. The beetles are

oftenest found buried in the heart of the
choicest light-coloured flowers, and are most
numerous on sandy soils. Hand picking in
the early morning is the only remedy, and a
small vessel half filled with kerosene is a safe
and convenient receptacle. Paris green at

ROSES

the rate of one pound to two hundred gallons
will kill the beetle, but it also injures the
foliage. The application of arsenate of lead,
five pounds to fifty gallons of water, is recom-
mended.

ose slugs are usually found on the under
side of the leaves and may be detected

the skeletonised appearance of the leaf.
These small, green, slug-like worms are the
larvae of a small black saw-fly, which may
be seen busily at work in early June thrusting

its egg into the leaves. A second brood of
the slugs works in August. They are oftenest
found on plants grown in frequented places,
such as a porch, where the birds will not

remove them. A decoction made of two
tablespoonsful of powdered white hellebore
to four gallons of boiling water, applied when
cool with a whisk-broom, so that the under
surface is thoroughly wetted, proves most
effective. One thorough application will
usually suffice, but if the slug has appeared

in given places during previous years, an-
ticipate his coming and apply the hellebore
solution before the expected arrival, or, since
it is a chewing insect, a Paris green spray can
be used.

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INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 49

Aphis, or green fly, is the most common
pest that the the rose grower has to contend
with. Vigilance is the best remedy. The

should be attacked just as soon as it
appears, as the increase is on a scale of mar-
vellous rapidity. The finger and thumb are
excellent for the early attack. At that time
a plant may be cleansed in a few minutes,

but it should be at once sprinkled with
tobacco water in which a small portion of
whale-oil soap has been dissolved.

eaf hopper. Beginning early in June
and continuing throughout the season, the
leaf hoppers appear. These pests are a con-
stant menace. When the upper surfaces of
the green leaves show minute yellow blotches,
a glance on the under sides will reveal the
culprits, and when the bush is jarred, they

jump or fly off in large numbers. They are
minute, active, light-yellow leaf hoppers, or
the misnamed "thrips" of the rose grower.
Most of their life is spent on the under sides

of the rose leaves. They suck their food
from the inside of the leaves, often seriously
weakening the plant.

The plant lice and leaf hoppers are sucking
insects and must be suffocated with insect

50 ROSES

powder or tobacco dust, or they must be hit
with an oil, a soap, or a tobacco spray.

erosene emulsion, a strong tobacco decoc-
tion, or whale-oil soap (one pound in six to
eight gallons of water), will kill all that are
wet with the spray, but it is practically impos-
sible to hit them all with one application, and
they develop so rapidly that usually it is
necessary to repeat the dose several times

uring the season. Either of these sprays
will doubtless kill any slugs that may be at
work at the same time.

WATER AND POISONS AS REMEDIES

If a strong water pressure is available, one
can often master all of these serious enemies
of the garden rose bush with the hose and
a coarse spray nozzle, by simply knocking off
the insects with a spray every few days.

n trying poisons, remember that rose
foliage is tender and may be injured by strong
mixtures.

Very common is the bark louse, which sur-
vives the winter and is usually found on old

wood. It can best be treated before growth

egins in the spring and can be removed
scrubbing with a tooth-brush and a plentiful

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INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 51

supply of soap and water. Kerosene emul-
sion is of course a proper remedy for this, too.
The rose is just as likely as any other plant
in the garden to be attacked by the San Jose
scale, and must be treated similarly to other
infected plants. The lime-sulphur-salt wash
is found to be superior to all other remedies

yet tried. An objection to this lies in the
whitewashed effect given to the plants, but

the addition of lamp black to the mixture

tones down the colour to a dark greenish
grey, which in the garden is worth the little
extra trouble involved.

Sometimes curious half-circular pieces are
cut out of rose leaves by the leaf-cutter bee,
which deftly makes them into long tubes con-
taining several cells in which its young are
developed.

DISEASES

The rose is subject to a hundred or more

fungous diseases, the majority of which, hap-
pily, are not serious obstacles to the gardener.
There are a few, however, among the host
which add to the troubles of the grower.
The Black Spot is the most wide-spread and

nspicuous of all the diseases. It was first

52 ROSES

described in 1826. This is an old enemy, and
has long been known to the rose growers in
Europe. The foliage, when attacked, soon
develops the characteristic black spots, and
the leaves become elsewhere pale, and shortly
fall to the ground. As a result, rose houses
badly infested with the black spot show but
few leaves and fewer blooms. The micro-
scopic structure of this fungus has been fully
considered, with plates, in the first annual

report made by Professor Scribner as Chief

of the Section of Vegetable Pathology of the
United States Department of Agriculture, for
the year 1887. This trouble may be held in
check by the carbonate of copper compound,
using five ounces of the carbonate of copper
to three quarts of ammonia and sixty gallons
of water. The spraying should be done once
a week, using a hose with a nozzle that gives
a fine spray. The point should be to wet
every part of the plant, and yet not drench it.
If many leaves have fallen from the plant they
should be gathered up and burned.

Some varieties are more liable to the black
spot than others. When possible — that is,
when all other things remain the same — it is,
of course, wise to grow those least susceptible

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 53

to the disease. Dr. B. D. Halsted has seen
the black spot upon a species of wild rose
(Rosa humilis), where it was causing the
leaves to become spotted and yellow. The

wild plant was growing but a short distance
from a neglected estate where garden roses
were badly spotted.

The Actinonema, the fungus causing the

disease, belongs to a small genus, and some

of the species are parasites upon the bass-
wood, beach, ash, viburnum. The one upon
the rose is not found upon plants outside o

the genus Rosa, and there has its favourite
species and varieties. This is shown in a
remarkable manner with some of the cul-
tivated sorts grown side by side in the same

house. It is often very bad upon the Amer-
ican Beauty.

The Rose Leaf Blight disfigures and injures
the rose leaves almost as badly as the black

spot. A thoroughly diseased leaflet has
large irregular blotches of grey colour sur-
rounded by a margin of dark purple. The
grey dead centre of the spot bears a number
of pimples or specks — more numerous and
conspicuous near the centre — and in these the
spores are produced. It is closely related to

54 ROSES

the leaf blight of the strawberry. It is impor-
tant to know these relationships between
the various plant diseases, for it is helpful in
the struggle in overcoming them. The leaf
blight of the strawberry is very much more

common than that of the rose, and any
effective remedy found for the former may be
of value in checking the ravages of the latter.
Fruit growers have found this strawberry

leaf blight a hard one to check, perhaps
because of its many forms of spores and the
low habit of the plant and the consequent
difficulty of readily spraying the foliage upon
the under side. This difficulty does not obtain
with the rose, and it may be controlled more
easily. There is no question but that the

standard fungicides should be used when
this fungus is at work.

The Rose Mildew. — The most familiar
fungous enemy of the rose is the mildew
(Sphaerotheca pannosa, Wallr.). This dis-
ease has been known for a long time and is

quickly recognised by the powdery coat it

develops upon the affected parts. It is so
rapid in its development that rose growers are
sometimes inclined to assign the cause of the

growth to that which is in reality only the

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 55

condition or conditions favouring the appear

ance of the mildew. It comes from spores,
which falling upon the surface of the plant
will quickly germinate and produce a cob-
webby coating to the foliage. This fungus
is so different from the others that have been
mentioned, that a word is needed in way of
explaining the habit of the parasite, as this lies
at the foundation of the rational treatment of
the pest. In the first place the rose mildew
is a surface feeder and only attaches itself to
the epidermis of the host, through which
means of small suckers it derives its nourish-
ment from the deeper-seated substance. Being,
therefore, entirely upon the surface, the fine
threads of the fungus may grow rapidly and
make a mildew patch in a very short time
that is easily seen. The exact conditions that
favour this development of the spores are
pretty well known to rose growers. Some
of them claim that they can develop the fun-
gus at will, on plants under glass, by omitting
some essential point in heating, watering or
ventilation, particularly the last. If a certain
current of air is sure to produce the mildew,
it follows that the spores of the mildew were
widely scattered through the house, and that

ROSES

they started into vigorous growth at those
places where the proper conditions were
supplied.

The superficial nature of the mildew is of
great importance when the matter of remedies

is considered. It is a fungus that is in the
air, as it may be termed, in contrast with most
of the rose diseases that when active are
deeply seated in the plant. The spores are
produced as minute delicate cells upon

upright filaments that arise from the web
of horizontal vegetative hyphae. They are

easily reached by fungicides and apparently

destroyed without difficulty. Any of the
ordinary sprays will answer for the mildew,

but even these need not be resorted to, pro-
vided spraying is uncalled for by the presence

of other rose fungi. In short, if the mildew
is the only enemy at hand, it may be kept in
check by the use of flowers of sulphur, either
dusted upon the plants or even the pipes o
the greenhouse, the point being to produce a
gentle fumigation of the plants and the whole
house with the fumes of the sulphur. Profes-
sor Maynard, of the Massachusetts Experi-
ment Station, finds that a small kerosene stove
is most convenient for this purpose, and the

INSECT, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 57

sulphur, by means of it, is boiled in a kettle
for two or three hours twice a week, the house
being closed during the operation. The only
precaution is to use no more heat than is
sufficient to boil the sulphur, for should it
catch fire it might damage the plants. Mr.
John N. May writes that the best way to get
rid of the mildew on roses under glass is to

close the house about eight o'clock in the
morning, run the temperature up to 750,
then, with a bellows, fill the house full of

sulphur. Let the house remain closed till it

reaches 850 or 900, and afterward let air in

gradually. A constant circulation of air is
likewise recommended for roses at all times.
Potassium sulphide, one ounce to two gallons
of water, sprayed upon the plants has proved

an effective remedy. Dr. Massee states that
"flowers of sulphur mixed with about one-

third of its volume of slaked lime dusted on
the foliage prevents the spread of the disease."
Gardeners, from long experience, have come
to the belief that rose mildew is induced
a weak condition of the plant, resulting from
partial starvation, irregular or excessive water-
ing, and undue exposure to drafts of cold air.
The best success in rose growing, as in all

ROSES

other things, attends those who give constant,
intelligent care to the many details.

The mildews of the phlox and verbena
ave been effectually controlled by spraying
with kerosene emulsion of the standard
strength for insects. This mildew is so

closely related to the one of the rose that
similar results may be expected with the rose
ild

muaew.

The Downy Mildew of the Rose. — A secon

form of mildew (Peronospora sparsa, Berk.)
is sometimes troublesome to rose growers.
This is a close relative of a similar one upon

the greenhouse lettuce, and another is often
destructive to spinach, while a third is the

cause of a soft rot of potatoes. It produces
downy or velvety patches upon the leaf, quite
unlike the form above described, and the

threads run through the substance of the
leaf. In this case the fungus will have vege-
tated for a considerable time before it appears
upon the surface, which is entirely for the pur-
pose of producing its multitude of spores
borne upon the tips of the many aerial
branches.

is evident that the sulphur fumes may
cause the destruction of the spores, but may

REINE MARIE HENRIETTE AS A TRELLIS ROSE

Three hundred blooms three years from planting. An excellent way of using

climbing roses. A climbing hybrid tea

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 59

not reach the parts that are within the sub-
stance of the host. Such treatment, while
tending to check the spread by means of the

spores, will not be sufficient to arrest the
growth of the fungus that is already in the
tissue of the host.

There is also a second form of spore that
is produced beneath the skin of the leaf and
out of reach of fungicides. As a precaution
it is therefore well to destroy any mildewe
leaves, or else when they fall the spores may

e set free.

The Rose Rust (Phragmidium subcorticum,
Schr.) is a genuine rust similar to that of the
wheat, oats and other grains. It is not com-
mon upon indoor roses, but is sometimes and
in some places a troublesome pest upon roses
grown for ornament in the flower garden and

lawn. It attacks more especially hardy
hybrid varieties. All three forms of the fun-
gus are produced on the same host. The
aecidia appear in late spring on the leaves
and young shoots, forming powdery orange

patches, and often cause distortion of the
shoots. About midsummer the patches be-
come deeper in colour, owing to the formation
of uredospores. Finally the resting spores

60 ROSES

are produced as minute black dots on the
under surface of the leaves.

■

The appearance of the disease in spring

epends entirely on the presence of winter
spores in the neighbourhood. It is therefore
necessary to collect and burn all fallen leaves

in the autumn. Plants that have been at-

tacked the previous season should be thor-
oughly drenched with a solution of sulphate
of copper in water — two ounces in three
gallons — in early spring before the buds

expand. The soil around the plants may
also be sprayed with the same solution.
Diluted Bordeaux mixture, or ammoniated
carbonate of copper solution, checks the

aecidium and uredo stages.

The fungus also grows on wild roses, an
these may become a source of infection unless
precautions are taken.

When a shrub is badly infested there is
little better to do than cut the whole plant

away close to the ground. This fungus is
closely related to (he one upon the blackberry
and raspberry, causing the destructive rust
of those plants. It has been shown that the

fungous hyphae penetrate all parts of the
blackberry plant, even the roots, and the rose

' I

w . .

STANDARD ROSES IN A FAMOUS GARDEN AT SARATOGA, N. Y.

Standard roses are popular in England, but they do poorly in America, needing to
be buried in a trench for winter protection. They are effective in the formal rose garden
because they break the monotony of a uniformly low level

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 6l

grower may not find that severe pruning will
rid a plant of the pest when it is thoroughly
infested. Therefore, as with the raspberry
rust, it may be necessary to root out and
destroy the rose bush and start again with a
healthy plant. This rose rust is a good illus-
tration of the great depth to which a fungus

will penetrate in the host and the difficulty

of eradicating the same. It goes without
saying that ordinary sprays will be of little

curative effect upon a plant when the living
vegetative threads of its fungous parasite
penetrate to all parts.

In California the rust upon roses is very
much worse than it is in the East — sometimes

every leaf upon a shrub is badly affected. In
such a warm climate, when the plants retain

their foliage throughout the year, the dark
winter spores not being needed, are omitted
in the life cycle of the fungus and the orange-
coloured form of summer is perennial.

The Rose Anthracnose is chiefly charac-
terised by the scarcity of leaves. Instead of
a plant with foliage upon all the canes there
are but few leaves upon some stems, while
others are entirely defoliated. The who

plant is infested with the fungus, and this

■

62 ROSES

parasite so saps the vitality and interferes
with the processes of growth that the leaves,
even if they were healthy in themselves, are
unable to perform their work. The fact is,
that the leaves are infested with the anthrac-
nose filaments, and soon after falling, if not
before, they will show the spore formation of
the anthracnose fungus, Glceosporium rosae.
In general appearance and habits of growth,
this fungus is quite similar to the one causing
the anthracnose of the raspberry; possibly it
is identical, and if so the presence of the one
is a menace to the host of the other.

The rose plant is most likely to be attacked
while young, or at least it is to be presumed
that the young portions of a plant are most
susceptible. The attack is from without,
and the spores falling upon the surface of the
young, tender canes and leaves as well, there

germinate and produce, in a short time, an
affected spot. If this takes place in a cane, it
is natural to suppose that the portion above
the infested part will be girdled, in so far as
the attack is great, and this will interfere with
the direct support by the whole plant of the

part beyond the diseased place. Besides
this, the fungus spreads, and more rapidly, in

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING

the direction toward the tip of the cane,
is not unusual for a diseased plant to send up
apparently healthy shoots from near the base
of the stem, but these become infested in turn.
Roses whose foliage has a sickly colour, and

whose leaves fall, especially from the tips of
the canes, prematurely, may be suspected of

being victims of the anthracnose. A hand

lens should be sufficient to assist in finding
pinkish blotches upon the leaves, particularly
those that lie upon the moist earth beneath the
half-defoliated plant. Similar, but better
defined pimples usually occur upon some
portion of the cane.

The multitude of spores produced in pim-
ples upon canes and fallen leaves, the ease
with which they are transported by water,

the rapidity of germination — all these factors

combine to render this fungous enemy of the
rose highly contagious.

coating of the Bordeaux mixture upon
the leaves and stems prevents in large degree
the entrance of the germs. All plants that

are nearly leafless from this cause should be
either cut down close to the soil or thrown

bodily into the burn-heap.

The Rose-Leaf Spot. — Somewhat similar

64 ROSES

to the leaf blight previously mentioned but
rarely met with is the leaf spot, due to the
fungus Cercospora rosaecola. This produces
spots that are of a grey colour with a dark pur-
ple border, and the spores are long and borne
in little tufts upon the surface of the central
portion of the dead areas.

As yet this leaf spot is not common, but

when found at all is often quite destructive.
As the spot fungus produces its spores on the
outside of the plant, it is easily controlled by
fungicides.

Black Speck on Roses. — Closely associated
with fungous diseases of the rose, and generally
regarded as such is the black speck. Little

round, black dots about the size of a pin's

ead are seen scattered irregularly on the
(generally lower) surface of the leaves or on
the stem, label or stake near the plant.

This trouble is due to the indirect, and not
the intentional action of a fungus, and in this

respect is quite unusual and merits a word
of consideration. The fungus that is the
source of trouble is one of the moulds an
grows upon organic substances and not upon
the rose.

It forms in large numbers upon the manure

LORD PENZANCE HYBRID SWEETBRIERS

Brenda on right, taken two years after planting. Two seasons later the plants are four

times as large. Very desirable where there is plenty of space

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING

used to cover the bed where roses are growing.
As it matures a dark oval ball or sac is pro-
duced filled with spores. This black sac is
supported upon a swollen stalk rising from

the surface of the manure, and when ma-
ture the enlarged portion, filled with liquid,
suddenly forces off the spore sac and collapses,
throwing the ball of spores into the air. These
dark spore sacs are covered with moisture
as they are discharged and will adhere
to any object which they may strike in their
flight.

The height to which the dark sacs are
thrown is fully ten feet; but there is a rapid
falling off in the number upon any given
area when the height of two or three feet is

reach

These specks, of course, may be upon any
plant that is within range; but they do no

further harm than the disfigurement thereby
produced. They are more often met with in

rose houses, because there the manure is

more frequently left upon the surface than
with other kinds of plants.

This extensive list of things which are pos-
sible sources of trouble to the rose grower,
should not be regarded entirely as a karri-

66 ROSES

cade to frighten the prospective beginner.

The diseases and the insects exist, and they
may at one time or another make an assault
on the rose garden or rose house. They are
not among the essentials of rose culture, but a
reasonable knowledge of how to identify the
one or the other and how to advance against
it is a great aid to success. As a rule, these
pests thrive best when the cultural conditions
under which the plants are growing are of the

worst. It is not true that they are the
creatures of neglect, but they are certainly the
fruits of neglect.

WHEN TO SPRAY THE GARDEN ROSES AND HOW

Dates based on an average season in New

ork [Allow four days' difference for every
hundred miles of latitude].

Use the insecticides and fungicides at the
following strengths:

Sulphide of potassium in a solution of one-
half ounce to one gallon of water.

Arsenate of lead, five pounds to fifty gallons

of water.

Whale-oil soap, one pound to eight gallons

of water.

A CLOSE VIEW OF THE ALTAI ROSE

This excellent shrubbery rose has larger flowers and seems better adapted
to our climate than the Scotch rose, of which it is a botanical variety.
Flowers white, about two and a half inches across

INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING ' 67

o not use any poisons unless they are
really necessary.
Mid-April. — Spray roses and neighbour-

ing trees with Bordeaux mixture.
Late April. — Just before leaves open. Whale-

oil

soap

May 10th. — Leaves open. Potassium sul-
phide.
May 17th. — Potassium sulphide.

May 2 1 st. — Buds set. Whale-oil soap.

May 24th. — Potassium sulphide.

June 1st. — H.P/s begin to bloom. Potassium
sulphide.

June 7th. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Arse-
nate of lead.

June 14th. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Ar-

senate of lea
June2ist. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Whale-

oil soap (last application).

June 28th. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Arse-
nate of lead.

July 4th. — H.T. andT.; H.P.'s bloom ends.
Arsenate of lead.

July 1 ith. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Whale-

soap

July 1 8th. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Potas-
sium sulphide.

68 ROSES

July 25th. — H.T. and T.'s bloom ends.

Potassium sulphide solution.
August 1st. — Potassium sulphide solution.
August 8th. — Potassium sulphide solution. *
August 15th. — Potassium sulphide solution.

CHAPTER

The Rosarian's Calendar

The following calendar of work in the rose garden is
based upon experience in the neighbourhood of New
York City, and of course is subject to the usual variation
of dates according to the distance north or south of New
York. The vaearies of the season must also be taken

deration. The d

b solute

March 15th. — Finish the pruning of hardy
varieties already planted.

March 25th. — Plant new hardy roses, prun-
ing new plants rather more severely than
those of the same varieties already estab-
lished.

April 15th. — Finish the pruning of tender
varieties, as far as possible, without uncov-
ering completely. Give to all the beds and
to any neighbouring pear trees, grape vines,
or other plants subject to fungoid troubles,

a good spraying of Bordeaux mixture as a
preventive.

70 ROSES

April 20th-25th. — Uncover tender varieties.

Plant any new ones received, giving these

slight protection of loose hay for a short

time over the tops, and a rather severe

pruning.
End of April. — Roses generally in leaf. Give

a preventive spraying of whale-oil soap.

Final touches to pruning.
May 20th. — Buds forming. Second spraying

of whale-oil soap.

May 25th. — Earliest roses bloom (Scotch

followed by the Luteas). Apply liquid

manure to H.P.'s.

June 5th. — Hybrid Perpetual Roses in quan-
tity. Watch for rose bug.

June 10th. — Third spraying with whale-oil
soap. Rose bug. Treatment as neces-
sary. Apply liquid manure to H.T.'s
and T.'s.

June 20th. — Hybrid Teas and Teas in quan-
tity. Watch for rose bug and for mildew;
treat the latter with sulphide of potassium.

July 1st. — Last spraying with whale-oil soap;
Hybrid Perpetuals decreasing.

July 10th. — Rose bugs disappear. Com-
mence regular applications for black spot,
a wet season; sulphide of potassium

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THE ROSARIAN'S CALENDAR 71

every week, or dilute Bordeaux mixture
every twenty-four days, this treatment

depending wholly on weather and appear-
ance of foliage, and lasting, if necessary, to

August 20th.
July 20th. — Hybrid Teas and Teas decreasing.

Mulch beds by this date at the latest.
August 30th. — Hybrid Teas and Teas, second

bloom begins, lasting until frost.
September 15th. — Second bloom of Hybrid

Perpetuals begins, but usually it is not
very plentiful.
October 15th. — Prepare new beds for the

next spring planting. Remove from old

eds any of the mulch that cannot be

fork

ea in.

November 15th. — Commence placing manure
protection around roots, tenderest roses

first.
November 30th, or after a nip or two of

decided frost, cover up tender roses for the
winter.

CHAPTER VI

Roses for Cut Flowers Under Glass

Its importance — The style of house — Even span and
three-quarter span — Iron and wood frame — The cost
Benches or solid beds — The benches — Soil and
manures — How to compost — Soil preferences — Filling
the benches — Cleaning the benches — Lime and sul-
phur wash — Planting — Watering — Cultivation — Im-
portance of ventilation — Avoid changes of tempera-
ture— To prevent mildew — How to use sulphur — The
cutical autumn period — The early firing — Tempera-
ture— A combination of factors — Time from planting
to flowers — Prune when cutting — Blind wood not of
importance — Kinds that will grow together — Roses
with carnations — Manuring and mulching — Manage-
ment in spring — Professor Stuart's formula — Quan-
tities of fertilisers to use — Carrying over — Treatment
of new plants — Why buy from a dealer — Propagation
Select flowering wood — How to make a cutting — The
sand for propagating — Soil for young plants — After
the cuttings strike — Shifting into larger pots — Sum-
mer plunging — Spring care — Flowering Tea Roses in
pots — Hybrid Perpetuals in pots — All about growing
American Beauty.

The art of growing roses under glass has
been brought to its highest perfection in

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 73

merica. The commercial importance of
this one branch of the florist's trade is already

enormous and the tendency is for its con-
tinued increase. About 2,000,000 square

feet of glass are used in the greenhouses
devoted exclusively to the production of roses
for the cut-flower market in one large "rose
factory" area within twenty-three miles o

New York City. Under this cover an army
of 450 men is continuously at work, and fully
$20,000 a year are paid for the carriage of the
floral burden from the growing districts to the
city market. These figures represent but one
district — the most important one, it is true

but they should be doubled to be fairly rep-
resentative of the united sources of supply
for that one city. This will suffice to show
the immensity of the demand for good roses,
n these establishments the operations are
carried out upon a gigantic scale, but in their

details do not differ from what is necessary
for the private grower who desires to raise
roses under glass for home use. If it is
intended to grow roses at all, it will be worth

while to make one's plans to do the work
thoroughly. A " cheap" greenhouse may be
a continual source of worry and expense.

74 ROSES

THE HOUSE

good house is essential. Without an

adequate structure full success cannot be
expected. But that statement need not deter
anyone from making the attempt in a reason-

ably well built and sufficiently lighted house

where the heat can be had. The type of
house most favoured for forcing roses was
formerly what is known as the three-quarter
span, in which one side of the roof was much
wider than the other. Nowadays opinion is
equally favourable to the even span. On a

hillside the former style of house is to be
preferred, as it possesses some structural
advantages. The long slope of such a house
is to be open to the south, so as to receive the
greatest amount of sunlight. All houses of
whatever pattern will, of course, be run east

and west. On a hillside such a house does
not have an excessively high wall on the north
side which it has, of course, when built on the
level. The three-quarter-span roof makes
the house very high in the centre, as a regular
pitch of seven and one-half inches to the foot
is maintained. The even-span house, in
which both sides of the roof are of the same

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 75

size and the ridge is in the centre, is perhaps
to be preferred, as it is cheaper to build an
costs less for repairs. On a private place the
advantages of the even span are still greater,

because of the better adaptation of such a
ouse to a variety of uses. Thus, if the
owner is tired of growing roses, or has had no

success, the house is well adapted for some

other plant.

Houses may be either of wood, or of wood
and iron combined (which is to be preferred).
This is sometimes referred to as iron or steel
frame, with a wood veneer to act as a cushion

for the glass. The iron house costs more,
naturally, but it lasts longer. It costs less for
repairs and admits more light, because its
framework is more slender and casts smaller
shadows. A house suitable for roses, even

span, 25 x 50 feet, six-foot sides, iron frame

can be erected for about $2,200 without
masonry work, but covering cost of erection,
cement walks, iron frame benches with tile

bottom and glazed with 16 x 24-inch double

thick glass; also boiler and an adequate
system of four-inch cast iron pipes to main-
tain a temperature of 550 to 6o° in zero
weather and a cellar about ten feet wide

ROSES

across one end of the house. Such a house
should have two lines of ventilators, at the
ridge. If the house is to be built with a pos-
sibility of growing other plants at any time,

side ventilators may be provided also, to be
used when necessary. Certain fluctuating

charges on account of freight, cartage, ex-
penses of workmen, excavating and grading
would have to be added to the figure quoted.

The cost of these would vary according to
local conditions and might reach a total of
$700 more, and masonry work would consume
perhaps $1,000. Thus a sum of about $4,000
should be figured upon as necessary to build
a really first-class house of the most approved
modern type for roses, including American
Beauty, which requires more head-room an
more heat than the other varieties commonly

grown under glass. A house of the same
size built of sash bar, all cypress wood, and
without cement walks would cost about one-
third less. An iron frame house 20 x 50 feet
would cost about $1,900 for the superstructure

and $900 for masonry, including the cellar.
The height of the sides modifies the cost of

the house very materially, but necessitates a
greater expenditure to maintain the required

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 77

degree of heat. In fact the problem of what
house to use is to be looked at in the light of
adjustment to circumstances. The greater
the first cost, the less the after expense, and
as in all other things, the best, in the long run,
proves to be the cheapest.

BENCHES OR SOLID BEDS ?

As to whether benches or solid beds shall be
adopted there is a wide division of opinion.
The present-day trend is toward the latter,
especially for American Beauty. The Hybrid
Teas seem to flower more freely when planted
in beds; on benches they exhibit a tendency
to become dormant, and cease growth. Still,
benches are in very common use and give
abundant satisfaction, and in a private estab-
lishment the raised benches are usually the
more convenient to manage. Again, the
heating pipes will be run under the bench and
generally a neater appearance is presented.
The bed is certainly the more durable, and if
the plants are to be carried over for more than
the one year there is much to be said in its
favour.

The benches should hold about four and a

Jo ROSES

half inches of soil and drainage may be pro

vided by having the bottom pieces one-half

inch or even one inch apart. In solid beds
drainage material — broken stone — is filled in
for a space of fifteen inches and a soil depth

of six or seven inches allowed.

THE SOIL AND MANURE

The rose likes a rich soil. It is of prime

importance to have proper soil. Without it
the finest house will fail to produce good
roses, and with suitable soil one can get along
very well indeed in a make-shift sort of a
house. In many small places where it is not
practicable to give up one house entirely to
roses, it is nevertheless possible to attain a

ble result by paying strict attention to

the soil requirements. Much has been writ-
ten about soil for roses. That in certain dis-
tricts better roses are grown than elsewhere
nearby is abundantly true. All places are
not equally well suited to roses, and this local

adaptation is generally thought to rest upon

the soil rather more than upon the climate,
is important that the amateur bear this in
mind.

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 79

WHAT SOIL TO USE

The soil should be procured in the autumn
before the planting season, in August or Sep-
tember, so that the winter may act upon it.

By preference get soil from an old pasture
that has not been cultivated for many years.
A heavy loam from grass land that has been
regularly grazed is the ideal basis of the com-
post heap for roses. A good, tough sod full
of roots is to be sought. It is not the grass
tops which the rose grower seeks, but the
fibrous mass of root below. Having the
soil, stack it just before winter in proportion
of three parts soil to one of cow manure,
layer upon layer, in a mound of convenient
height — about five feet; it must not be too
high nor too broad for the frost to penetrate.

Let it remain here without any cover till

spring. In this composting fresh manure
can be used, but if the manure is added at the
time the soil is chopped down in the spring,
it must have been thoroughly rotted previ-
ously.

As soon as the weather in spring is "open"
and the soil sufficiently dried out to be worked,
the whole heap should be turned and allowed

80 ROSES

to remain fully a month, when it is turned
once more. Use a spade in these operations.
One month before the soil will be carried into

the house it should have the final turning,
when bone meal (one part to fifty) or other
fertiliser, as may be desired, may be added.

To a soil taken from a pasture yielding one
ton of hay to the acre one-fourth of its bulk

of manure may be added. Whereas a soil
from a pasture cutting two tons to the acre
will not need over one-eighth of its bulk o
manure. At the last turning of the compost
a dash of lime and bone meal may be given —

but neither in large quantities. It will be
better perhaps for the ordinary person to

omit the lime — which is given only when

there is an extra heavy soil — and apply the
bone meal (or wood ashes) directly to the

soil in the beds or benches as a top dressing
before planting, at the rate of one bushel to a
hundred-foot house of the standard width of
twenty feet. Or figuring by weight, ten

pounds each of bone meal and wood ashes,
or bone meal and sheep manure, to two hun-
dred square feet of glass, mixed with the soil
in the bench or while turning outdoors, will
be sufficient. Some growers add powdered

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 8 1

mica to modify a light and gritty or too sandy

soil.

VARIETY PREFERENCES

Different varieties of roses show prefer-
ences for different soils, but a soil prepared
as described above will be found to give the

best results with a majority. A soil that is
good for almost all varieties will, if taken and

rubbed between thumb and finger, have a
mellow, smooth feeling. Perle des Jardins,
La France, Duchess of Albany and Niphetos
succeed best on a lighter type of soil, while the
Bride, Bridesmaid, Catherine Mermet, Mad-
ame Hoste, Papa Gontier, Souvenir de Woot-

ton and American Beauty require a heavy
soil for their best development. It is obvious
from this that the varieties to be grown should
determine, in a measure at least, the nature

of the soil to be used. It is generally con-
ceded that roses grown on a clay soil produce
blooms of better colour and substance than

those grown on a lighter one.

PLANTING THE HOUSE — WATERING

Planting is done any time from the early

part of May to the end of July. The aim

82 ROSES

should be to get all the roses housed by July
ist, so that they can make a good growth
during the rest of that month. Two weeks'
growth then is worth twice as much in Octo-
ber or November.

The soil as previously prepared, by com-

posting either in the autumn or spring, is
brought into the house and put into the beds

in benches which have been thoroughly

cleaned. It is well to line the bottom of the
bench with sod to hold in the soil, putting the
grassy side downward. This is especially
necessary when the boards of the bench are
placed an inch apart, as is sometimes the case.

Fill up the benches — three inches of soil is
the proper depth for young roses — and apply
such fertiliser as may be necessary, mixing it
in thoroughly with the hands, at the same

time picking out all stones and any other
rough material. Finish it by leaving the

surface of the bed rounded rather than level
to allow for any subsequent settling. Don't

pound the soil, and use a fork to break up
any lumps if you like, but the most practical
men use their hands as the levelling an
finishing tool.

The actual work of planting is easy enough.

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS

By means of a line mark off the beds so as to
give the plants fifteen inches apart either
way, at least. The young plants being in
pots must be well watered a couple of hours
before they are to be planted; they will then
leave the pots readily and remain a solid

all. They must not be allowed to dry out
at this time. Gently disengage the roots,
place the plants in position no deeper than
they were in the pots, and firm well by press-
ure on each side with the closed fist. The

larger plants should be placed in the bac
rows. An essential detail in the planting

out from pots, whether it be a rose or any
other plant, is that the ball as it comes from
the pot be loosened and softened, being care-
ful not to break the roots. The object in
view is to get the soil of the ball and that of
the bench properly united so as to be as
nearly as possible of one texture. As soon as
they are all planted give them a good water-
ing and they will immediately begin to make
new feeding fibres. This watering is given

close around the plants individually rather

than over the whole bed. And this object
may be assisted by leaving a slight shallow

around the plant. After this they should

ROSES

never suffer for want of water, neither should

they be saturated at any time. Syringing
overhead two or three times a day on very
hot days is very beneficial, and all air possible,

top and sides, should be given, leaving an
approach for air on top at night. This treat-

ment will make a sturdy growth and solid

wood, which enables the plants to go suc-
cessfully through a winter forcing campaign.

DISINFECTING THE BENCHES

Preparatory to filling the benches with soil
it is necessary to disinfect the whole house.
Burn sulphur on a hot sunny afternoon, shut
up the house tightly as soon as the sulphur is
well lighted, and leave all snUg until the next
morning. The benches must then be washed
and cleaned inside and outside, and be given

a good coat of hot lime wash. This will
destroy any insect or spores remaining in the
bench. This wash is prepared as follows:
To nine pounds of unslaked stone lime add
two pounds of powdered sulphur, and water.
Pour the water over the lime and, when it
commences bubbling, pour in the sulphur
and stir until the sulphur is dissolved; then

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS

put it on the bench hot. This sulphur in the

ench will almost surely keep the roses free
from mildew. This wash helps to preserve

the wood of the benches and it kills any

insects that may be lurking in crevices,
plain lime wash without sulphur may be used
if desired. The whole of the house, walks,

and under benches must be cleaned up an
made tidy after the planting.

If planting is done during July the plants
ave to stand the strain of the hottest part
of the summer, and it is during their manage-
ment at this period that the foundation o
ultimate success or failure is laid. The rose
likes a moderately warm, moist condition,

which must be provided by the grower

WATERING

From the day the young rose plants are

put into the benches they must be watered

frequently and systematically. Eight times
a day is not too often during the most trying
period of the summer. There are great dif-
ferences of opinion on the subject of watering,

there are hardly two growers who treat

their plants alike. In cloudy, rainy weather
the most careful manipulation of ventilating

86 ROSES

and watering, coupled with the best judg-
ment, are necessary to maintain the vigour
and the health of the plants. It is not then

safe to syringe, but moisture can usually be
provided by dampening the walks.

ne successful gardener on a private
estate thus tells of his method of watering:
"The first good syringing is given at about
7 A. M., under rather than above the foliage,
with the idea of removing any insect. The
other six are given above the foliage, more
to moisten the leaves and to stop too rapid
evaporation from them. The point is this:
Planted as they are under glass without
shade, the evaporation through the foliage

is more than the absorption by the roots.

By this method I have found that the plants
develop foliage more rapidly and of better
substance, consequently are less susceptible
to attacks of mildew."

Of course care must be exercised that the

■

beds are not made over-wet by this treatment.
If so much time as this needs is not easi
to be given, the number of syringings may b

duced to two, but they must of necessity

heavier and the water must be g

equally to the soil and to the foliage. It is

Killarney, a Hybrid Tea rose as grown under glass for winter flowers. This rose

is also one of the best for the garden

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS

to be observed that in the case of the frequent
syringings the water is kept from the soil

as much as possible. The amateur is much

more likely to err on the side of giving too
little water than he is to make the mistake of
giving too much. The vigour of the plants
must be kept up.

After the plants have been in the benches
for two or three weeks they will be making

a good growth and can be watered more

freely. Keep the surface of the soil stirred
and clear of weeds. But don't work too

eeply — half an inch is enough.

GENERAL CARE, VENTILATION AND

TEMPERATURE

From the time of planting, pay strict atten-
tion to the ventilation. The rose house must

e well equipped with apparatus so that the
required conditions may be kept up easily.
Open the entire system every day from early
morning until after sunset, when the house
should be half closed. Aim to keep the
temperature inside one or two degrees lower
than the outside air during warm weather.
To do this means to balance very nicely the
two factors of (i) watering overhead, and

88 ROSES

damping down the house generally; (2)
admission of air. With full air on and ordi-
nary conditions the desired effect is main-

tained by using the hose under the benches

and on the walks. Above all things during
the summer stage avoid letting the house
get too warm. Sudden changes of temper-
ature are most inimical and are sure pre-
cursors of disease. Although it may not be
safe to syringe during dull days, we must at
the same time watch for red spider, applying
the remedy — water — at once if discovered.

MILDEW PREVENTION

As a preventive of mildew (one of the
worst enemies during summer and autumn),
if sulphur was not used in the whitewashing

of the benches and cannot be used on the

pipes it may be put on sheets of tin suspended
from the roof. This is easier and much
cheaper and more cleanly than dusting. But
the best preventive of mildew during summer
is abundance of air applied with judgment.
When sulphur is dusted on the plants they
should not be syringed for two or three days,
and the temperature during daytime in that
period run up to 85 and 90 degrees.

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS

WHEN AUTUMN COMES

The most critical time of all is as we ap

proach autumn, September and October.
Changes in the atmosphere are then sudden

of great degree. The rose grower who
has his house so piped that he can turn on a

little — only a little — heat even during Sep

tember is often very glad of his foresight.
Sometimes for this purpose a single pipe is
carried overhead in the ridge, or one on each
side of the house near the eaves. The night

temperature at that time should not drop

below 60 degrees; it will be better to

it at 65 degrees. The cold nights are very

treacherous to the rose grower and he must
e prepared. As the weather gets colder

the fire heat is gradually increased so as to
maintain 56 to 58 degrees at night for Teas,
and 58 to 62 degrees for Hybrid Teas, except
Meteor, which requires 10 degrees higher

both day and night. In the ordinary rose

house a day temperature of 65 degrees is

to be kept up. When the thermometer in-
side shows one degree above the temperature
outside open the ventilators on the side away

from the wind and at the top one inch

90 ROSES

increase the amount of air as the heat inside

rises, it is most important not to cause

sudden changes. As a rule we have a good
many bright days during September an
October, with cool nights — ideal weather for
rose growing. Put on plenty of ventilation
then to harden the plants for the winter, and
if the thermometer drops below 60 degrees at
night, keep on a little fire and leave a "crack"
open on the top ventilator, with the side
ventilators closed.

SEVERAL VARIETIES IN ONE HOUSE

It is of course far better to have one kind
of rose in one house — not necessarily one
variety, but varieties so much alike that they
accept similar treatment, as would be the

case with The Bride and Bridesmaid, the

two most popular roses for white and pink
colours. This is not always possible on the

private

a m

becomes neces-

ry; but try to reduce the number of

if the best results are sought. Much can
done in the heating arrangements to make th
house suitable for mixed varieties by havi
one end cooler than the other. With

degrees at the warm end and 53 degrees at th

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 91

cool end in ordinary weather, dropping to
55 and 50 degrees in zero weather or below,
quite an assortment can be handled satis-
factorily.

A good selection for a private place for all
purposes would be: The Bride, Bridesmaid,
or Killarney, Perle des Jardins, and Souvenir

e Wootton. Souvenir de Wootton is not
equal to Meteor in colour, but it is impossible
to grow the latter with the other varieties
named, as Meteor needs a night temperature
of 65 to 68 degrees, and a day temperature
from 72 to 85 degrees. Kaiserin Augusta
Victoria does best in a night temperature
from 58 to 60 degrees. Papa Gontier and

Souvenir de Wootton do best in a night

temperature from 53 to 55 degrees, and a
rise from 10 to 15 degrees on bright days.

Perle des Jardins, Sunset and Papa Gontier
will do in the cooler part of the house. Ameri-
can Beauty, the standard of merit in a rose

for winter flower, should have a house of its
own. It requires special treatment if it is to
do its best, and further details for the manage-
ment of that variety are given in another
section. It is sometimes grown in a mixed
house, where it occupies the centre bench

92 ROSES

of an even span because it demands more
head-room than the other forcing roses.
Liberty is another excellent dark rose, but
requires special treatment, and not everybody
has succeeded with it. For a fuller list of forc-
ing roses the reader is referred to the chapter
dealing with varieties for special purposes.

ROSES GROWN WITH CARNATIONS

is sometimes convenient to grow roses
with carnations, on the principle that any
roses are better than none. Such varieties
as Papa Gontier, Souvenir de Wootton,
Perle des Jardins, Madame Cusin, Niphetos,

Ivory, and Golden Gate (that is the cooler

kinds), can be grown with carnations pro-
viding the house is kept at 50 degrees
at night. To grow these plants in such a
temperature they require treatment a little
different from that usually followed in forcing
roses. They should be planted not later than
July 1st, should be good stock from not less
than three-inch pots, and grown liberally
on till September 1st. Then gradually reduce
the amount of water at the roots so as to
get them accustomed to a less amount o
humidity in the house than is usually givei

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CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 93

for roses. They will show a firm, soli
wood by the time the carnations are housed

From this time on the roses must be kept

rather dry, and when watered be given only

gh to moisten the soil through. Water

should only be applied on bright days,

then early in the morning as soon as
the sun is on the plants. The soil around
the roots should be made as firm as possible
soon after planting. About the middle of
February or early in March the plants should

ave a good mulching of manure. By
April they will want a larger proportion o
water, but care must be taken not to get too
soft a growth. This practice is followed on
some places and good roses are cut all through

the winter.

Liquid manure may be given as soon as
the plants are well rooted through the bench,
but it must be given with care. It is well to
examine the roots from time to time to see
that all is progressing favourably.

MANURING AND MULCHING

With the beginning of January generally,
or after two crops of flowers have been cut,
it will be time to feed. This can be done

94 ROSES

either by a mulch or by watering with liquid
manure made the colour of strong tea. For
many reasons the liquid is better, although
some growers prefer the mulch. In using
a liquid you know when the beds are made

wet, which is not the case if a mulch is on.
For the latter use thoroughly rotted cow

manure by preference. There is a fungus

which grows on the manure and which

greatly disfigures the flowers of the roses
producing little black specks, the appearance
of which is avoided if the liquid is used.

In the liquid a mixture of various anima
manures can be used — horse, sheep and cow.

Apply every two weeks. If cow or horse
manure liquid is used alone, four or five fork-
fuls to a barrel of water (fifty gallons) will
give a strong enough decoction for use in the
early part of the seasoti. Of sheep manure
take four to six quarts of the pulverized
article as sold in the seed stores to a barrel
of water, and let stan d for a couple of days
before use.

About March, when the sun begins to de-

velop more power, mulch the beds with a
dressing of thoroughly spent manure, such as
comes from an old mushroom bed, or give

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 95

a mixture of well-spent cow manure and soil
in the proportion of three to one.

If a chemical fertiliser is desired, the for-

mula presented by Prof. W. M. Stuart

(Vermont) may be tried:

6 ounces nitrate of soda.
12 ounces superphosphate.
6 ounces muriate or sulphate of potash.
Dissolve in fifty gallons of water and apply over 150
sauare feet of bench surface.

This is a quick-acting fertiliser and is pre-

pared "for general results. " Chemical ma-
nures should be tried on a small scale until
they are understood. The best fertiliser for

inexperienced nanas is animal manure.

successful formula has been cow manure,
one-half bushel; sheep manure, six-inch pot-
ful ; and a five-inch pot of bone meal, to fifty
gallons of water; or instead of sheep manure

a four-inch pot of hen droppings may be

used. Nitrate of soda or sulphate of am-
monia, a three-inch pot to fifty gallons o
water, gives excellent results.

CARRYING OVER

It is the general practice when roses are
grown on any large scale to start the benches

ROSES

afresh each year with new stock. This has

been found to be the most satisfactory way,
as fresh soil, clean benches and new, vigorous
stock are all assured. But the plants can be
"carried over" for a second, or third, or even

fourth year. The method is to withhold
water gradually, beginning at the end o
June, until the beds are quite dry. The

plants must then be carefully watched to
prevent the wood from shrivelling. Syringing
should be done daily, and if the weather is
very warm twice a day. If the plants show
signs of shrivelling a slight watering should be
given but not enough to start the buds. At
the middle of August the plants should be
pruned. Remove all but the best wood and
shorten the other. As soon as the cuts are
healed give a good watering and then remove

all loose soil; mulch with half manure and
half soil; give plenty of ventilation night and

day until the foliage shows a dark green
colour. Treated this way the plants have
a period of activity, and one of rest.

THE PLANTS TO USE

For growing on a smale scale buy the plants
all ready to set out. It saves a deal of trouble

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CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 97

if you can be sure of getting good properly
developed plants propagated from healthy
stock. Look out especially for the eel worm.
This flourishes most vigorously in a dry
soil and is now not common in commercial
stock. The plant raiser is very particular
for his own sake to clear out diseased plants,

he takes great precautions against ee
worm by sterilising his soil with steam. The
amateur is unlikely to attempt this. On the
other hand, if the home stock is good it is
well to propagate from that.

MAKING CUTTINGS

In home propagation the cuttings should
be taken from the plants in the benches
during January. Select flowering wood for
propagation. Take the last (say) six eyes
on the stem for cuttings, making them two
or three eyed. Insert in a propagating bed
in sand with a bottom heat of 70 degrees and
a temperature of 55 to 58 degrees.

Before putting in the sand for propagation

the benches should be thoroughly white-
washed and drainage provided. Place the

boards one-half inch apart, covering the
cracks with either moss or excelsior; over

ROSES

this a coat of crocking or cinders, making
the whole about two inches deep; level evenly
and beat down firmly. After this select good,

coarse grit sand and place on a coat of at
least two and one-half inches, beating it
quite firm. Give the whole a good watering,
and it is ready for the cuttings.

When inserting cuttings into the sand,

draw a line across the sand about one or
one and one-fourth inches deep with a blunt
knife; place the cuttings in the channel thus
made, pressing down firmly to the bottom of
the cut. When the row is full press the sand

firmly against the cuttings, and with a fine
rose watering pot (not hose) give a good
watering. Repeat this as fast as the cuttings

are put in, and do not make too many at
once, nor let them get dry at the base before
putting into the sand. Should it be neces-

sary to have strong fire heat to keep up the

esired temperature (55 to 60 degrees, with
70 to 80 bottom heat), the cuttings should be
syringed at least once a day, and if the sand
shows the least indication of getting dry give
another good watering. The floor of the

propagating house should be kept moist all
the time, so as to have a nice, moist atmos-

t
1

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 99

phere. When taking the cuttings be very
careful to keep the leaf on. If that is allowed
to fall off the chances are greatly against

success. Keep a good circulation of air, as
otherwise the cutting-bench fungus is likely

to appear.

The cuttings will be rooted in about twenty

or twenty-five days, which can be told

prying a few out of the sand by means of a
wooden ladle or other similar handy article.

If they have roots over one-half inch long

they are ready to be potted. For this pur-
pose use a mixture of loam three parts, sand

one part, and rotted cow manure one part

Use two or two and one-half inch pots for

the first potting and be sure to put them in
firmly, pressing down the soil with the thumb
and finishing off* with a sharp rap on the

bench. Place near the glass and water
heavily only after a few days. In five or six

weeks shift on to larger pots — three or four
inch — using a compost as before with bone

meal added at the rate of two quarts to a
barrow load of soil, and don't omit to pot
firmly. Some growers give the second shift
in three weeks and another into six-inch

pots five weeks later. Plants should be

100 ROSES

bought from the grower not later than
May.

The potted plants must be given attention
as regards ventilation up to the end of April,
giving air only at the ridge. Use the means
already told for fighting mildew and fumigate
with tobacco for aphis. After June 1st, air
may be freely given top and bottom, syringing
them as necessary about once a day to keep
them growing.

PLANTS IN POTS

Tea Roses can be successfully flowered in
pots instead of being put out into benches.
For this purpose they are put back into the
plunging material after the final shifting into

six-inch pots and grown on until the middle
of September. During August the amount
of water is reduced so that they get a slight
"rest." After being put into the house they
are mulched to the top of the pot with a mix-
ture of cow manure and ground bone, about
twenty to one. Liquid manure is given in
December, using the formula already advo-
cated for the plants in the benches, but it
can be given more often — once a week.
These plants will commence to flower in

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CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IOI

about two weeks after they are brought

inside.

As the mulch gets spent it must be renewed

about the middle of December. When the
spring appears and growth is more natural
the plants will take more water. In June
they are to be taken out from the house and
again plunged to the rim and after a little
while gradually get dried off to rest, care
being had of course that the wood does not
shrivel. They can be shifted to larger pots

after about a month. Prune in August
cutting out all but the strong young shoots.
Water again as signs of new growth appear

and put into the houses in September to be
treated for another year as already described.
Hybrid Perpetuals are less popular than
the Teas and Hybrid Teas. Their treatment
differs from that accorded to the others be-
cause they are dried off more thoroughly and
rested completely for several weeks. The
pruning is done as for the garden plants in
spring, but in September, when the wood is
thoroughly ripe. They are then gradually
brought into growth by watering and are re-
moved indoors as soon as the buds are
plunged and there is danger of frost. They

*• V ,

I V 1 V ' \ ^ i X

102 ROSES

will flower in three months or a little more

from starting. Begin in a low temperature
— thirty-five degrees at night, gradually in-
creasing to forty-five degrees at night, which
is maintained until the buds are forming.

After the buds are formed liquid manure
can be given, the same as for Teas.

GROWING AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSES UNDER

GLASS

The American Beauty Rose is one of the
special high-class products of modern glass
gardening. Its successful cultivation requires
close attention to many details. These de-
tails, as understood by professional florists, are
briefly set forth in this paper.

For propagating, use sharp sand, four
inches deep, well firmed and kept at a uniform
temperature of fifty-five to sixty degrees, and

overhead temperature at from sixty to sixty-
five degrees. The cuttings should be medium-
sized wood with two eyes. Trim the foliage
in such a manner as to prevent its lying on the
sand and turning yellow from too much
moisture. Shade for a few days by hanging

light-weight muslin over the bench, but no
closer to them than one foot from the top of

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IO3

the bench. Give more space, if possible,
to prevent condensation of moisture on

foliage.

When the cuttings have made roots an

inch long put them in two-inch pots and
place them on a bench in the house with a
temperature of fifty-six at night and sixty-

eight in the daytime. Shade for a few days,

as mentioned for cuttings. Paper shading
is too dense and is likely to sweat them too
much. For potting, use the same soil as
for general planting, adding a very small
quantity of bone meal. Shift into three-inch
pots, then into four-inch, never allowing the
plants to become root-bound.

Many a grower thinks additional bottom
heat essential, but, while it will root the
cuttings from three to four days sooner, it will
be at the expense of the vitality and strength

of the future plant. In the temperature
described, the cuttings will usually take root
in from thirty to thirty-five days.

As soon as they have roots from one-half
inch to an inch long, they should be carefully
lifted out of the sand and potted in two-inch
clean pots. The best soil to put young
roses into is a fresh loam. For the first

104 ROSES

potting it should have but very little manure
in it, and if of heavy nature a liberal propor-

tion of sand ought to be added. In potting

the plants be very careful not to break the
young, tender roots.

When potted place them on the bench
with some ashes or sand under them. Water

with a fine rose, and should we have bright
sunshine, give a syringing overhead at least
twice a day, and for about a week shade
them during the middle of the day from
direct sunshine. Such plants make good,

vigorous stock if kept growing steadily.
Never let them get pot-bound at any time,
and shift as required. The temperature
should be kept as nearly as possible to that
of the propagating house.

For soil, use five parts of the regular rose-

house sod to one part of pure cow manure,
put up the previous autumn and thoroughly
mixed in the usual way, by chopping down
and repiling at least twice before using.
It is immaterial whether the soil is of clay or
sandy nature, as good results may be obtained
from either kind.

n planting, fill the benches with soil four
inches deep, firming it before setting the

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IO5

■

plants, which should be fifteen inches apart
both ways. Leave a slight depression around

the base of the plant in order that the ball

may receive the direct benefit from a goo
watering after plants have been set. The
subsequent waterings should be very carefully
applied until heavy firing commences, when

the plants will be better able to withstand
water to a certain extent. That is, keep them

on the "dry side." If not allowed to dry
out, the earth will become sour and prevent

root action. It is essential at all stages o
growth to keep the plants growing without
any checks, but do not force them or they will
give poor results later in the season.

The plants should be disbudded. Pinch

off the first crop of buds when they have

shown colour. Have the plants well estab-
lished before allowing them to bloom, being
careful not to rob them of too much foliage.
Use judgment between the strong and weak
plants. When cutting the blooms from
young or matured plants, their future growth

should be taken into consideration. Try
to determine how many "eyes" of the wood
should be taken with the bud in order that they
may " break " freely and to the best advantage.

I06 ROSES

Give plenty of fresh air, avoiding draughts.
Moisten the walks twice a day in hot, dry
weather; otherwise avoid too much moisture.

Shading the glass has a tendency to make

plants spindling. Keep the house as nearly
as possible at fifty-eight to sixty degrees by
night, and seventy to seventy-five degrees
day, excepting cloudy days, when it should

e kept at sixty-five degrees. Ventilation
should be given gradually, avoiding extremes.
Letting the temperature run too high before
giving air is likely to induce mildew, black
spot and injury to the buds.

For mulching on the beds use half soil and

alf cow manure, composted and made fine
under cover at least four months before using.
Apply lightly in August, freely about January
1st, and a light application in April.

Syringing should be done on bright days
only, commencing early in the day, but not
before the sun is shining, in order that the
plants may have time to dry off before sunset,
particularly if the weather is too warm for

firing. Syringing is not necessary on every

bright day, providing red spider has been
kept in check from the start. A good nozzle
for syringing is made by taking a brass hose-

Spraying the foliage of roses under glass to keep down red spider. The spray

is directed at the under side of the leaves

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IO7

pipe ten inches long, attaching thereto a
sprinkler three inches in diameter at right
angles, with holes made a trifle larger than

ordinarily used. With a water pressure of
from seventy to eighty pounds directed to the
under side of the foliage this spray will
dislodge the spider without knocking the
plants about as much as by the older methods.

Green aphis is likely to be troublesome.
Do not wait until it makes its appearance.
Smoke the houses weekly in the autumn
with tobacco stems that have been moistened
with water to prevent blazing. Discontinue
when the mornings become too cold to admit
giving plenty of air; then tobacco stems
should be substituted, being suspended under

the edge of the bench in poultry netting

Stems will last much longer used in this
way, besides keeping the house sweeter an
cleaner.

For mildew, paint the flow-pipes with

ulphur mixed with water. This will not

adhere as readily to the pipes as if mixe
with oil or lime, but it will be more efficacious
in emitting the fumes, and is not as injurious
to the pipes. In warm weather, during the
absence of firing, dust the plants with

108 ROSES

sulphur mixed with air-slaked lime an
ply with a bellows especially made for this
purpose, or use "grape dust" in very much
the same way.

The plants may be supported by using two
wire canes or stakes five feet long (No. 8 wire)

for each plant and held in position one foot
from top of stake by a wire running lengthwise
over the bench. To have straight stems and

uniform foliage the growth should be kept

carefully tied, giving all the room that is

possible for light and air.

When the old plants have been discarded
and the old soil removed, the bench bottoms,
sides and corners should be thoroughly
cleansed by scraping and brushing. Then
fumigate with burning sulphur, and after

the house has been sufficiently aired, white-
wash inside of benches before filling with new

soil. In this, as in other horticultural
operations of importance, avoidance of trou-
e from fungous diseases depends largely
on cleanliness and the establishing of anti-

septic conditions. Especially is this true

when successive crops of the same sort are
grown under "forcing" methods.

Three-quarter-span houses of the usual

CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IO9

iron construction are to be preferred; the
benches being four feet three inches
five inches deep. American Beauties are
grown only on the two inside benches of
the house. Good results are also obtained

in houses of "even-span" with benches on
the same level.

CHAPTER VII

Types and Races

Key to the horticultural groups — Types commonly
grown — Time of blooming — The hardiest races.

broad division of roses into two great
natural classes may be made: (i) summer
flowering and (2) summer and autumn
flowering. While certain individual roses

may be picked out as typifying the many
groups into which these classes are again sub-
divided, such minute classification is not a

practical one nowadays. The border lines
have been overlapped in all directions so that
for garden purposes a broader significance
can be given to many of the old-time larger
groups, ignoring the finer distinctions of the
hair-splitting rosarians. For the average
amateur an acquaintance with the Hybrid
Perpetual, Hybrid Tea, Tea, Noisette, Multi-
flora (Rambler), and Rugosa and Wichura-
iana is all that is necessary. In many cases
there are perpetual flowering forms of the

TYPES AND RACES III

summer flowering groups, and climbing forms
of many bush types are in cultivation, so
that an exact classification long ago became
difficult, and the condition is more trying as
time sees new arrivals.

GARDEN

CLASS I. — SUMMER FLOWERING ROSES, BLOOMING ONCE ONLY

A. Large flowered (double).

B. Growth branching or pendulous; leaf wrinkled. . .Provence,
Moss, Pompon, Sulphurea.

BB. Growth firm and robust; leaf downy Damask and French,

Hybrid French, Hybrid Provence, Hybrid Bourbon, Hybrid
China.

BBB. Growth free; leaf whitish above, spineless Alba.

AA. Small flowered (single and double).

B. Growth climbing; flowers produced singly Ayrshire.

BB. Growth climbing; flowers in clusters. . . .Evergreen, Semper-

virens, Wichuraiana, Cherokee, Banksian.

BBB. Growth short jointed, generally, except in Alpine Briers,

Austrian, Scotch, Sweet, Penzance, Alpine, Prairie.
BBBBB. Growth free; foliage wrinkled Pompon.

CLASS II — SUMMER AND AUTUMN FLOWERING ROSES, BLOOMING MORE

OR LESS CONTINUOUSLY

A. Large flowered.

B. Foliage very rough Hybrid Perpetual, Hybrid Tea,

Perpetual, Moss.

BB. Foliage rough Bourbon, Bourbon Perpetual.

BBB. Foliage smooth China, Tea, Lawrenceana (Fairy).

\A. Smaller flowered.

B. Foliage deciduous.
C. Habit climbing.

D. Cluster flowered Musk, Noisette, Polyantha,

Wichuraiana hybrid.

DD. Flowers solitary Ayrshire Perpetual.

CC. Habit dwarf, bushy Perpetual Briers, Rugosa,

Lucida, Blanda, Microphylla, Berberidifolia, Scotch.

BB. Foliage more or less persistent Evergreen, Macartney,

Wichuraiana.

•

112 ROSES

Alba or White Rose. — A small

group

little known. Habit: Free growing. Foli-
age: Whitish above; deep green below.

rickles: None, in type, but hybrids with
other groups have prickles. Flowers: Light
colours, medium size. Flower once. Cul-
ture: Adapted to any soil; prune closely.
Type: Felecite Parmentier.

Alpine or Boursalt. — Habit: Climbing;
long, flexible, reddish-coloured shoots. Foli-

age: Glabrous, seven to nine leaflets, gland

ular. Prickles: Generally none. Flower:
Purple or crimson, mostly; in large clusters.
Bloom once. Culture: Adapted for shady

places; prune by thinning freely, but leave
flowering wood. Type: Amadis.

Ayrshire. — Habit: Climbing, slender
shoots, rapid growing, fifteen to twenty feet

in one season. Foliage: Five leaflets, dull
above, sometimes pubescent beneath. Tex-

ture thin. Prickles: None or very few.
Flowers: Produced singly, moderate size,
two and one-half inches across. White to

deep crimson. Bloom once. Culture: Hardy,

but not so hardy as the Prairie Roses. Do

TYPES AND RACES II3

not require rich soil. Prune very little.
Type: Queen of the Belgians.

Banksia. — Habit: Climbing, slender;

rapid grower. Foliage: Dark green, glossy,

often only three leaflets. Prickles: None.
Flowers: Small (one inch across) in umbels,

once in the season — May. Culture: In rich
soil in greenhouses in the North. Prune
very sparingly. Type: Yellow (scented like
violets).

Bengal or China (Monthly Rose). —

Habit: Moderate, branching growth three to
five feet high. Foliage: Glaucous green, dark
above, pale beneath, three to seven leaflets.
rickles: Brownish-red. Flower: Profuse

when well grown. Not fragrant. Small.

Produced all summer. Culture: Rich so
Prune close. Type: Agrippina.

Bourbon. — Habit: Vigorous. Intermedi-
ate between Bengal and Damask, with great

range. Foliage: Dark, lustrous, seven leaf-

lets. Prickles: Various. Flowers: Light
shades, generally with some purple, and pro-
duced in clusters all summer (some few do not

bloom freely in autumn). Culture: Rich so
Prune closely. If the shoots are cut back
immediately after flowering bloom will be

114 ROSES

continuous till frost. Moderately hardy.

Type: Hermosa.

Briers. — Austrian, Scotch, Sweet, Pen-
zance. Habit: Short jointed, branching

freely. Foliage: Small, spiny, fragrant in

Sweetbrier. Prickles: Abundant, except in

alpine. Flowers: Small. Yellow in Austrian.
Short lived. Bloom once. Culture: Scotch

grows well in sandy soil. Sweetbriers like

a heavy rich soil. Prune by removing some

of the oldest shoots. All are hardy. Do not
respond greatly to high cultivation. Type:

Rosa

spinosissima

Austrian Briers have chocolate-brown bark,
emand dry soil. Flowers, yellow. Type,
Persian yellow.

Scotch Roses are excessively spiny and
sucker freely.

Sweetbriers have fragrant foliage and deco-
rative fruits. Flowers, light coloured and
small.

enzance Hybrid Sweetbriers are hybrids
from the Sweetbrier, sixteen varieties, all

good. Lord Penzance is the prettiest in

colour, while Minna and Green Mantle are
most fragrant. They should have a high

trellis and be at least eight feet apart. To

! -

■

■ .

■

;:£*

■

THE BEST ROSE FOR HEDGES AND SEASIDE

Rosa rugosa, a Japanese species with thick, dark green, glossy wrinkled leaves

Free from insects and disease. The large red hips last into winter

TYPES AND RACES 115

prune, shorten back the over-vigorous growth
and remove some of the oldest shoots.

Damask and French. — Habit: Robust

green shoots, vigorous grower. Foliage: Five
to seven leaflets, downy, coriaceous. Pale

green in Damask, dark green in French.
Prickles: Very numerous in Damask; slightly
fewer in French. Flower: Generally flat.
Those of French Rose bleach in sunlight and
develop perfume in dried petals. Damask
Rose loses scent on drying. Flower once. Cul-
ture: Suited to any soil, very hardy. Prune
by thinning out the abundant shoots. Gener-
ally superseded by the hybrid of other groups.

Types: Mme. Hardy (Damask), Boule de
Nantenie (French). Variations: Hybri
French, less robust, smoother, short-jointed
wood. Hybrid China, derived from French,
Provence, Noisette, or Bourbon. More dif-

fuse growth, foliage shining, enduring late
in the season. Very hardy, adapted to poor
soils. Prune but slightly. The so-called
Hybrid Perpetuals, which, however, bloom
but once in summer, and which have helped to
diminish the proper appreciation of that
class, are properly Hybrid China Roses.
Type: Mme. Plantier.

Il6 ROSES

Evergreen (Sempervirens). — Habit:
Climbing. Very vigorous. Reddish bark.
oliage: Dark green, retained late in the

season. Seven leaflets, glabrous. Prickles:
Hooked. Flowers: Scanty in corymbs, once

in June. Culture: Hardy. Prune by cut-
ting out entirely shoots that need thinning.
Type: Felicite Perpetuelle.

Hybrid Perpetual. — The most important

group for general garden cultivation. For
practical purposes of the amateur all the
sundry roses which bloom once in the sum-

mer and again more or less intermittently
in the autumn are now included here. Hybrid

China Roses differ from Hybrid Perpetuals
in that they bloom once only, in summer.
Habit: Various. Generally stiff, upright,

sometimes inclined to pendulous. Foliage:

Dull green, wrinkled, not shiny. Prickles:
Various, generally strong and fairly abundant.

Flowers: Of all types, partaking of Tea,
Damask, French, Bourbon, etc., produced
in summer and autumn. Culture: Good gar-

den soil, rich and deep, inclined to heavy.

Prune by cutting back, according to habit;

if very vigorous, prune less severely than
weak, as heavy pruning tends too much to

TYPES AND RACES II7

wood production. Examples: Mme. Gabriel

Luizet, American Beauty.

Hybrid Tea. — The most popular roses
for all-round cultivation in the garden and
under glass. Habit: Intermediate between
that of the Tea and Hybrid Perpetual.
Foliage: Rougher than in the Teas and
slightly wrinkled; not so rough as in the

Hybrid Perpetuals. Prickles : Generally
large and strong, though not very abundant.
Occasionally very few. Flowers: Of various
types, generally well formed, with a large

number of petals and an elongated bud-
Bloom throughout the season. Culture:
Same as for the Teas, except that as a class
they require less protection. Examples:

Killarney, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, The
Bride, etc.

Multiflora (Rambler Roses). — Habit :
Climbing or recurving; very vigorous, green

shoots. Foliage: Bright green, slightly hairy,

serrate, nine leaflets. Prickles: Abundant
and strong. Flowers: In pyramidal corymbs,
once in the season. Culture: Good, rich
garden soil. Prune by cutting out old canes

that have flowered. Type: Crimson Ram-

bler. This group has been hybridised with

Il8 ROSES

other climbing roses and is very uncertainly
defined.

Musk and Noisette. — Habit: Slender

shoots, half climbing, six feet in height.
oliage: Shiny, usually pubescent beneath
five to seven leaflets. Prickles: Moderate in
quantity, hooked, reddish. Flowers: Pale
colours, including the best yellows, very
fragrant, generally in clusters. Culture :

Good garden soil; requires slight protection
in winter. Treated generally as the Teas.

rune moderately. Type: Cloth of Gold

(Chromatella).

Prairie. — Habit: Climbing, rapid grow-

ing. Foliage: Five to seven leaflets, dark

green, rough, large. Prickles: Stout and
moderately numerous. Flowers: In clusters,

once, late in the season. Culture: Any gar-
en soil. The Prairie Roses thrive over a

greater extent of territory than any other

group. Prune but slightly, cutting out old

canes as necessary. Type: Baltimore Belle.

Provence. — Habit: Branching, pendulous

and straggling. Foliage: Large, broad,
wrinkled, deeply serrate. Seven leaflets gen-

erally. Prickles: Sometimes fine and

straight, sometimes coarse and hooked.

TYPES AND RACES II9

Flowers: Large, globular, with a great num-
ber of petals. Very fragrant. Blooms once
only. Culture: Rich soil; prune closely,
unless very vigorous. Type: Cabbage Rose.
Sub- Varieties: Moss Roses. Pompon, dwarf,
with cupped flowers.

Rugosa. — Habit: Dense bushes, short
jointed. Foliage: Shiny, much wrinkled,
very dark green, remarkably free from insect

pests. Prickles: Numerous and stout, but
small. Flowers: Single or double, produced
intermittently throughout the season. Pink
or white, followed by handsome fruits. Cul-
ture: Does well in any garden soil and is well

adapted for seaside planting. Prune
cutting out nearly all old wood and shortening

the remainder. Examples: Rosa rugosa,
Mme. Georges Bruant.

Tea. — Habit: Slender growing bushes,
branching freely. Bark smooth, shiny. Foli-
age: Smooth, shiny, never rough or hairy.
Young growths often copper coloured.

rickles: Moderately abundant, or almost
absent in some varieties. Flowers: Generally
light coloured, darkened where exposed to
the sun. Tea scented. Produced through-
out the entire season — a really perpetual class.

120 ROSES

ulture: Very rich soil, thoroughly well
drained. Protection in winter is necessary
except in the real South or in California. In
the climate of the East and North the Teas
are not hardy. Prune by cutting back hard.

xample: Isabella Sprunt.

Wichuraiana Hybrids (R. Wichuraiana

X Teas or Hybrid Perpetuals). — Habit:

Prostrate, slender; green bark. Foliage:
Small, glabrous, nine leaflets, half evergreen.

rickles: Hooked, small. Flowers: Small,
numerous, in corymbs, July to September.

ulture: On any sort of soil; does well in all
sorts of situations. Prune only as necessary
to the overcrowded shoots. Type: Dawson.
This is a new group of immense importance
to American gardens, yielding the best climb-
ing roses for porch or trellis.

WHEN THEY BLOOM

The Hybrid Perpetual varieties have one
period of bloom, from about June 5th to July
5th. If judiciously cut back after blooming,

some additional flowers may be expected in

mid-autumn. But as a rule the term "per-
petual" is a very misleading name with
American conditions of climate. This is the

- •

FORM

PROVENCE ROSE

The French rose and the Damask rose have been hybridised with the Tea
and other China roses, producing the Hybrid Perpetual class, which includes
nearly all the common garden roses

TYPES AND RACES 121

reason why so many people are disappointed,
who expect these roses to flower freely a second
time, as described in English books, which
treat of English conditions. The Provence
and Damask Roses also bloom between June
5th and July 5th.

The Teas, Hybrid Teas and Bourbons have
two distinct periods of bloom, namely, from
about June 15th co July 25th, and again from
the beginning of September until cut down

frost.

The China (or Bengal) and Polyantha Roses
bloom off and on at intervals throughout the
season. Few of them attain to any great size
of flower, and most of the Polyanthas bloom
in clusters of miniature roses. But both are
very useful at times, when few other roses can
be had, and no garden of any large size should
e entirely without them. They should be
bedded apart from the larger growing
varieties, for most of them are small growers;
but this rule is by no means absolute; Eugene
Beauharnais (Bengal) and Marie Pavie (Po-
lyantha), for example, being very large bushes.

Rugosas, owing to their very bushy growth,

should be in separate beds. Four feet be-

tween plants will be none too much. They

122 ROSES

bloom once profusely, and off and on sparingly
thereafter.

The climbers follow their races in periods
of bloom, the climbing Perpetuals blooming
once and the climbing Teas having two good
periods of bloom. The Noisettes have the

ea habit; the climbing Hybrid Polyanthas

(which includes the Ramblers), and also the
Wichuraiana Hybrids, bloom but once.

The climbers of any given race take much
longer to be established than the non-climbing

varieties. Climbers, if planted in a row
along a fence or trellis, should be at least four
feet apart. Several varieties need twice the

space between plants. Their soil should re-
ceive at least as deep cultivation as the ordi-
nary rose beds and the plants themselves

should not be forgotten, as they often are,
when the food supplies are going around.

THE HARDIEST RACES

The Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas are
absolutely hardy in the latitude of New York
and for some distance north, and require no
protection. Polyanthas do not need much,
and indeed usually get along well enough
without any overcoat. All other kinds are

TYPES AND RACES 123

more or less tender. If the owner is satisfied

with a single month of bloom and cannot

devote the necessary time and attention to
protecting other varieties, then all the roses

should be selected from among the Hybrid

Perpetuals and Rugosas and the hardy

climb

ers.

In any case, start with the very best field-

grown plants that can be found. Inferior
stock is dear at any price, and plants grown
in greenhouses cannot be relied upon to sur-
vive the winter out of doors.

CHAPTER VIII

Roses for Special Purposes

Abbreviations. — (B.), Bourbon; (D.), Damask; (F.),
French or Gallica; (H.B.), Hybrid Bourbon; (H.C.),

Hybrid China ; (H.N.), Hybrid 'Noisette ; (H.P.),
Hybrid Perpetual, including some of the hybrid Bour-
bons; (H.T.), Hybrid Tea; (M.), Multiflora; N.),
Noisette; (P.), Prairie (roses derived from R. setigera);
(R.H.), Rambler hybrids (Crimson Rambler, one
parent); (T.), Tea-scented, (W.H.), Wichuraiana
hybrid.

We can have roses almost anywhere.

is even possible to have them in poor,
sandy soil, but it is not possible to have the
best double varieties without the best soil

and the best care. There can be roses on
walls, on trellises, on tree trunks, on arbours,
in the city garden, at the seashore, and about
the mountain home where your summer is
enjoyed. There are roses that bloom in the
summer, others that make the garden glow
in autumn, and some that are so lavish with
flower that they repeat their gifts of colour

124

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 125

and fragrance through the season. As a
whole, the rose family asks for a deep, rich
and heavy soil; but the Burnet, or Scotch,
roses will thrive in sand; so will the Memorial,
or Wichuraiana — and there are a score of
excellent varieties derived from this which
make rampant growth with almost no soil at
all, and seem not to ask much care.

We have been so long trained to think and
speak of roses as only for their individual

flowers that whole groups and families of
kinds that do not make a great display of
specimen individual flowers have been almost
lost to the sight of the ordinary individual,
is not true that all roses are ugly plants, to be
regarded only as the means of producing
glorious roses, and that therefore their proper
place is in an out-of-the-way corner where

they will never be seen. Roses there are
which are as good material for the garden
picture as any other of the flowering shrubs.
Let us have roses about our homes, and in
every garden. If there is no other possibility,
plant a climber to ramble over the piazza and
show its rose buds about the window frame.
Elsewhere have walks of roses, arbours of
roses, pillars of roses, roses climbing up, and

126 ROSES

roses in wreaths hanging down, and, indeed,
roses everywhere. Grow them for their

colour, for their fragrance, and — because
they are roses!

How to do this ? Select the proper vari-
eties of the proper groups, and, above all,
don't put up a fight against the inherent
nature of particular plants, for it will be a
losing struggle, and there is no lasting pleas-
ure in that sort of gardening. Certain con-
ceits of rose culture demand special methods
of setting about the desired end. Unless you
are wonderfully favoured, standards are not
possible under the usual method of perma-
nent planting, and it then becomes necessary

to take them into trenches each winter.
Again, climate controls the rose grower; a

garden of Teas and other of the tender roses
which is an easy matter in the South and on
the Pacific Coast is not a question of prac-

tical gardening in the East and the North.
The gardener has to make his garden from

the best possibilities, and the more this is
realised the less apparent is the effort.

American gardens have at hand a rich mass
of available material for rose effects without
a slavish adherence to the better known gar-

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 127

den roses of the Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid
Tea or pure Tea types. Even the native
species are of importance, especially for
shrubbery effects. What better than the bright
red bark of Rosa blanda, massed, in the
winter landscape! The Multiflora group, as

represented by the now ubiquitous Crimson

Rambler, has opened the eyes of thousands
of suburban home makers to the possibilities
of roses other than the ordinary. It is realised
that there are roses for many purposes, and

the Crimson Rambler itself has become a
many-purposed rose. How great a reality
it, and its contemporary arrival — the Wichu-
raiana — have become, will be better under-
stood by a reference to the following lists.

These two roses must be regarded reverently
by the progressive rosarian on account of what
has been accomplished through their accept-

ance as garden plants. They have helped
the million to learn that there are roses and
roses — and roses; that there are varieties
for all kinds of purposes, and that a rose

garden is a possibility anywhere if there

is a foot or two of soil and a few rays o

sunsmne.

What everybody wants, and what we shall

128 ROSES

never get is a perfect double rose that is fra-
grant, and borne in great profusion on a bush
that is beautiful even when out of bloom, and
which will grow without care, is free from
insects and diseases and will not die in the
winter. There are roses in Europe that come
within a mile of this ideal, but rose culture in

America is still in its infancy. Our climate
is fundamentally different from that o

urope, and the roses of the future must be

hybrids of the best double roses of the Old
World with the hardy roses of Japan, which
are better adapted for plant-breeding pur-
poses than the wild rose of the Northeastern
United States. Meanwhile we must endure
the nuisance of budded roses. Many desir-
able varieties are not strong growing enough

and have to be grafted upon the roots of
stronger-growing species. The latter natu-
rally throw out suckers which will strangle the
choice variety unless they are watched daily
and the suckers removed. By deep planting

the budded part may be induced to make
roots, and the original root dying, "own-root"
plants will result. The common roses that
everybody grows are the Hybrid Perpetuals,
or H. P.'s as they are commonly called.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 120,

This class includes practically all of the im-
portant double roses that are supposed to
be hardy in the North. This class has been
created by hybridising the French Rose and

the allied Damask Rose with the China Rose,

of which the Tea Rose is the favourite
type. The Tea Rose is the most fragrant
and has the most beautiful bud of any Rose,
ut the main reason for crossing it with

the roses of Western Europe is its ever-
blooming character. The Tea Rose blooms

intermittently all the summer and autumn

whereas the roses of western Europe usua
give a lot of bloom in the month of June and
do not flower again until the next year. Un-
fortunately the Tea Rose is not hardy, i. e.,
it will not survive the winter outdoors in cold
climates, except in special locations, and with
special treatment. Tea Roses are the glory
of the South and of California and the delight
of the Northern amateur who is willing to
fuss with them. They need winter overcoats

of straw or they must be covered a foot or
two deep with manure to prevent the roots

from freezing. The Hybrid Tea, a blending

of the tender Tea and the H.P., is hardier

than the Tea proper and gives some of the

I30 ROSES

most desirable roses; most of the modern
favourites are of this class.

It is impossible to have the best roses and
the best bush at the same time. The pruning

and general cultivation are entirely different.

The two purposes cannot be entirely recon-
ciled. If you want the best double roses,
your rose bushes are sure to be unsightly
when they are out of bloom. If you want a
rose bush that will look well through the sea-
son you cannot have the best double flowers.
If you want the individual flowers you must
grow flowers — not plants — by pruning hard

each year in the spring, cutting back almost
to the ground. In this climate the standard
roses should be grown on the Dog Rose stock,
every plant dug up in the autumn, laid in a
trench, and covered for the winter. The
standard is of service only to relieve the level

monotony of a formal rose garden. It does
not give larger flowers.

n the lists for special purposes, which
follow, the object has been to present selec-
tions of the best varieties suited to each case.
The lists, in other words, are not exclusive,
but suggestive rather. The previously pub-
lished statements of experienced growers have

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 131

een freely drawn from, and it is very inter-

esting to observe how frequently certain
varieties are named in widely separated parts
of the country.

VARIETIES FOR A ROSE GARDEN (DR. HUEY's

lists)

All Hybrid Perpetual Roses do not do well
in America, and some favourites in England
and Ireland are utterly worthless here. In
order to discover the best for this climate,

Dr. Robert Huey, of Philadelphia, Pa., has
been to considerable pains, and every Hybrid
Perpetual in Dickson's catalogue has been
thoroughly tested by garden cultivation. For
this valuable and complete trial the thanks

of all rosarians are due. The following va-
rieties have all given good satisfaction:

White Roses , H.P.

Merveille de Lyon
White Baroness
Frau Karl Druschki
Margaret Dickson
Mabel Morrison
Gloire Lyonnaise

The last is an H.T. but is a vigorous grower, blooms only

in June, and should be planted with this class.

J32

ROSES

Pink Roses, H.P

Baroness Rothschild

Caroline (TArden

Heinrich Schultheis

Her Majesty

Mme. Gabriel Luizet

Marquise de Castellane

Mrs. R. G. S. Crawford

Mrs. John Laing

Paul Neyron

Paul's Early Blush

Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi

Crimson and Carmine Roses, H. P,

Captain Hayward
Duke of Edinburgh
Duke of Teck
Duke of Fife
Etienne Levet
Fisher Holmes

General Jacqueminot
Oscar Cordel
Prince Arthur
Ulrich Brunner

The best of the very dark roses is Prince

Rohan. Sultan of Zanzibar,

Camille

Louis van Hotte and Xavier Olibo might also
be tried. They are, however, weak growers,
and do not often perfect their blooms.

Trellis Roses

Reine Marie Henriette
Gardenia

The wild Rosa blanda is unequalled for foregrounds of shrubbery belts. The bright
red bark gives a needed touch of colour to the winter scene. It can be mowed down
close to the ground every two or three years, when it will make fresh growth

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I33

Ard's Rover

Paul's Carmine Pillar

Rosa setigera

Dorothy Perkins

Queen Alexandra

Crimson Rambler

Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriers

eine Marie Henriette is undoubtedly the
very finest trellis rose for the climate of Phila-

delphia. It is a vigorous grower, fairly
hardy, and is a glory in June, while through-
out the entire summer, and autumn until

frost, many good blooms may be gathered.

In pruning, the leading shoots should be cut
back to a little above the trellis, and the
laterals shortened to two eyes.

Hybrid Teas

Some of the Hybrid Tea Roses are hardy and
vigorous in growth and constitution, and in
freedom and size of bloom they surpass all
other sections. About one hundred and fifty
varieties have already been introduced, a few
of which are excellent, some mediocre, and
most worthless for our climate. After a trial
of about eighty varieties, some fifteen are
believed to be well worthy of cultivation here.
There are some others that give good prom-

134 ROSES

ise, but they are not sufficiently known to
report upon. The following are recom-
mended:

Killarney

Caroline Testout

Antoine Rivoire

Viscountess Folkestone

Souv. de President Carnot

La France

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria

Alice Grahame

Ellen Wilmot

Clara Watson

Mme. Abel Chatenay

Liberty

Gruss an Teplitz

M. Bunel

Reine Marie Henriette

Killarney is the most satisfactory rose in
this or any other class for growing out of doors.
The growth is strong and vigorous, perfume
delicious, petals of great substance, colour
most beautiful, and it is a free and continuous
bloomer.

ROSES FOR VACATION HOMES

If the vacation home is occupied toward

the end of the summer rather than at the
beginning, plant about it those roses that

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ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I35

flower in the autumn. Selection has been
made for all-round qualities such as profusion
of bloom, cutting, garden effect, variety of

colour, and variety of type, as well as length

of season, which will do well although given
poor attention.

Bush Roses

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T-), white.
Gruss an Teplitz (H.P.), crimson.

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark red.

Burbank (B.), pink, flowers till frost.

Egan (W. H.), pink, always in flower.

Mme. Plantier (H.N.), white.

Souvenir de la Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh.

Mme. Caroline Testout (H.T.), silver pink.

Climbers

Debutante (W.H.), cherry red, flowers into time of frost
Seven Sisters (P.)> crimson.
Reine Marie Henriette (T.), bright cherry red.
Baltimore Belle (P.), white.

ROSES FOR CITY GARDENS

In districts crowded with residences, with a

■

minimum of light and air and a maximum of

smoke and shadow, only the strongest roses

of each group may be planted. A tolerable

success may often be had even where the

I36 ROSES

smoke is that from soft coal. Of course
roses must have some sunshine.

Hybrid Perpetuals, Dark

Baron de Bonstetten (H.P.), very dark red.
Charles Dickens (H.P.), rose colour, large.
Dr. Andry (H.P.), dark bright red.
Dupuy Jamain (H.P.) brilliant cerise.
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark bright red
Ulrich Brunner (H.P.), cherry red.

Hybrid Perpetuals, Lighter Shades

John Hopper (H.P.), lilac-rose with crimson centre.

La France (H.P.), silvery pink.

Mme. Gabriel Luizet (H.P.), pink.

Magna Charta (H.P.), bright pink, suffused carmine

Paul Neyron (H.P.), pink. The largest of all roses.

Bourb

ouroons

Boule de Neige (B.), white.

Mme. S. Cochet (B.), rose, edged white.

Mme. I. Pereire (B.), rosy carmine.

Queen of Bedders (B.), deep bright crimson

Teas and Noisettes

Aimee Vibert (N.), white, clusters.

Reine Marie Henriette (T.), cherry red.

Gloire de Dijon (T.), yellow.

Homer (T.), blush rose and salmon, variable

Climbers

Crimson Rambler (M.), crimson.

R. Wichuraiana, white, single.

Also selections of the Rambler- Wichuraiana hybrids

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I37

ROSES FOR SHRUBBERY

Flowers are here a secondary considera-

tion. The bush must be shapely, free from
insects and diseases and of easier culture than

garden roses.

Climbers

R. setigera and its group of garden forms, red chiefly.
Dundee Rambler (Ayrshire), white, good on tree trunk

Bush — Single Flowered

Penzance Briers, white, pink to yellowish

Persian Yellow.

The Scotch, white, pink, yellowish*

R. lucida, pink or white.

R. nitida, pink.

R. rubiginosa, pink.

R. rugosa, white or pink.

R. blanda, pink.

Bush — Double Flowered

A few hybrids of R. rugosa, white or red
Some Scotch roses, white or pink.
The Egan, pink (W.H.).
Austrian Brier, yellow.
Harison Brier, yellow.

ROSES FOR EDGING WALKS

Select dwarf compact roses, not of free

growth or else naturally dwarf bushes that
can be cut back with impunity; such are the
native species.

I38 ROSES

R. multiflora nana — a dwarf form of the tall species;

very free flowering, white.
R. Chinensis, van minima (R. Lawrenciana), one foot,

crimson.

The Scotch in variety: dwarf, arching, good in sandy

soil, white to pink.

Madame Norbert Levavasseur (R.H.), flowers when only

a few inches high, crimson.

Mow These Down Every Tear or Two

R. blanda, pink, bright red back.

R. lucida, white and pink.

R. nitida, pink, hardy.

R. rubiginosa, pink, sweet-scented foliage.

Train on the Ground or on a Frame

Crimson Rambler and allied hybrids.
R. Wichuraiana.
R. multiflora.

ROSES FOR THE WILD GARDEN

They must be of the easiest possible cul-

tivation, single, free growing and should be
allowed to climb or trail at will over other

shrubs. All the native species find a most
appropriate place in the wild garden where

they will flourish and attain a beauty of per-
fection not dreamt of in the fields; they
should be located in a meadow-like effect-
Any one who has visited the Arnold Arbore-
tum in Boston will recall the richness of the

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I39

wild rose flora in the meadow and along the
edges of the drives and walks. That is the
model.

Multifloras Polyanthas. All native roses, especially

R. lucida. nitida. and blanda.

ROSES FOR CLOTHING STEEP BANKS

These must be free or even rampant
growers that will cover the surface quickly.

beautiful effect can be had in some situa-
tions by planting on the top of a mound and
letting the growths trail down.

Downward Hanging

R. Wichuraiana, single white.

Debutante (Seedling from C. Rambler), soft pink, flowers

twice.
Dundee Rambler (Ayrshire), white.
R. multiflora, white, large corymbs of single flowers.
Crimson Rambler, crimson.
Wichuraiana hybrids.
Philadelphia (R.H.), flowers before Crimson Rambler,

almost same colour.
Evergreen Gem (W.H.), white, single.
Pink Roamer (W.H.).

South Orange Perfection (W.H.), rosy blush.
Sweetheart (W.H.), delicate blush.

Upright Bushes

R. lucida, pink or white.

R. blanda, pink.

R. setigera (semi-upright), and its varieties.

I4O ROSES

ROSES FOR CEMETERIES

Light-coloured roses that can stand neglect
But don't neglect them!

For Flower Only

Maman Cochet (T.), pink; also a white form
Hermosa (Bengal), pink.
Burbank (B.), pink, blooms till frost.
Mme. Plantier (H.N.), white.

For both Foliage and Flowers

R. rugosa, white form, also effective in fruit.
Mme. Georges Bruant (Hybrid of R. rugosa), white.
Harison Yellow (Brier), semi-double, easier to grow than

the Persian.
Egan (W.H.), pink, makes a shapely bush, free from

isease.

ROSES FOR VERANDAS OR PILLARS

If the arbours and arches are exposed to
severe winter winds bend down the wood and
bury it in a trench, leaving the roots undis-

■

turbed. Great things are now possible
through the hybrids of the Crimson Rambler.

Crimson Rambler Type

Crimson Rambler (M.), crimson.

Dorothy Perkins (R.H.), bright pink.

Philadelphia (R.H.), like the Crimson Rambler, but

rlier.

For shrubbery single roses are most fitting, and the bush must be sightly all
the season and of the easiest culture. The Altai rose (Rosa spinosisima, var.
Altaica), a variety of the Scotch rose, has larger flowers and more vigorous
habit than the type. It has white flowers succeeded by globular black fruit

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I4I

Psyche (M.), pink, large flowers in clusters.
Dawson (W.H.), a pink Rambler.
Lady Gay (R.H.), bright, clear red, very striking.
Debutante (W.H.), soft pink, small flowers until frost.
Minnehaha (W.H.), dark rose, very double.

Other Types

Baltimore Belle (P.), white.

The Ayrshire Roses (including Dundee Rambler), pink

to red and white.
Carmine Pillar (Single H.P.), very showy.
Rosa setigera, pink.
Queen of the Prairies (P.), crimson.

FOR SANDY SOILS OR SEASIDE

The favourite H.P. roses, if budded on the
Dog Rose or Brier, can often be grown very

successfully in such situations, but the one
rose par excellence is R. rugosa.

Trailers

R. Wichuraiana, semi-evergreen, single, white.
Gardenia (W.H.), a semi-evergreen, double white.
Evergreen Gem (W.H.), a semi-evergreen, creamy white,

single, large flower.

Upright

Egan (W.H.), pink.

Rosa rugosa and its hybrids, red to white

The Scotch, white, pink and yellowish.

142 ROSES

Penzance Sweetbriers — including Brenda, Rose Brad-

wardine, Amy Robsart, Meg Merrilies, etc. — white,
pink and orange.

ROSES FOR CUT FLOWERS IN WINTER

The following will bloom from autumn

frost until May if properly managed. It is
impossible to tell in advance of actual trial
whether a rose will force easily and well and
be acceptable to the public. The following
are commercially successful in the East and
are suitable for amateurs to grow. The list
is based on a selection by the late E. G.
Asmus.

The Unquestioned Leaders

The Bride (T.), white.

Bridesmaid (T.), pink.

Perle des Jardins (T.), yellow.

Golden Gate (T.), blush.

American Beauty (H.P. or H.T.), red.

Liberty (H.T.), glowing crimson.

Ulrich Brunner (H.P.), cherry red.

Other Favourites — Teas and Hybrid Teas

Mrs. Pierpont Morgan, cherry red.

Madame Hoste, yellow,

Mme. de Watteville, salmon-white.

Ma Capucine, apricot.

Sunset, deep apricot.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I43

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, white.
Meteor, very dark red.
Killarney, bright pink.

Hybrid Perpetuals

Baroness Rothschild, clear pink.

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), red.

Magna Charta, bright pink.

Gabriel Luizet, pink.

Paul Neyron, rose.

Anna de Diesbach, clear rose.

ROSES FOR POTS AT CHRISTMAS AND EASTER

Free-growing, cluster-flowered roses that
are easily forced for either holiday. White
and light colours are preferred for Easter,
red for Christmas. Plants two to four feet
high are generally preferred.

Crimson Rambler, the greatest favourite, grown naturally

or trained into fantastic forms.
Madame Norbert Levavasseur — the Baby Rambler — is

a dwarf hybrid from the above, crimson, flowers

from three inches up.
Little Gem (Moss), pink.
Blanche Moreau (Moss), white.
Dorothy Perkins (R.H.), bright pink equivalent of the

older Crimson Rambler.
Lamarque (N.), white, an old favourite now rarely seen.
Varieties of the Prairie group (e. g., Russell's Cottage)

do well; all of rich crimson red shades, worth a trial
the amateur.

144 ROSES

ROSES FOR GREENHOUSE DECORATION

Roses for this purpose should make a free

growth and cover a good space in a season;
therefore climbing roses are best. The

larger-flowered kinds may be used for cut

flowers also. Train the vines along the
rafters, on a wire or upon a trellis against the
wall.

The Cherokee — a very tender Southern rose (R. laevigata),

flowers single, white and large.
Marechal Niel (N.), yellow.
Niphetos (T.), white.
Reine Marie Henriette (T.), cherry red.
Gloire de Dijon (T.), creamy yellow.
Climbing La France and other climbing forms of the '

popular varieties.
Banksia — useful if grown only for its foliage, small

flowers, pale yellow or white, having the odour of

violets.

ROSES FOR BOUTONNIERES

gentleman who wears a rose bud in his
coat lapel every day wishes a moderate-sized,

compact, half-open bud of lasting quality.
The following are adapted to this purpose

(the Persian Yellow least of all), and are also

desirable for garden decoration and cut
flowers.

THE ONLY TYPE OF ROSE FIT FOR A LAWN

The common garden roses are worthless for landscape effects. Rosa
rugosa is the best for this purpose, because its bush is always sightly and
practically insect- and blight-proof. Elanc de Coubert, a semi-double white
hybrid variety four to six inches across, blooms all summer.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 14 i

Hardy

Common Moss, pink.
White Bath (Moss), white.
Persian Yellow (Brier), yellow.
Blanche Moreau (Moss), pink.
A. K. Williams (H.P.), dark red.
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark red
Prince C. de Rohan (H.P.), dark red.

Tender

Catherine Mermet (T.), pink.

Homer (T.), pink.

Ma Capucine (T.), pink.

The Bride (T.), white.

Meteor (T.), dark red.

Perle des Jardins (T.), light yellow.

W. A. Richardson (N.), terra-cotta,

ROSES FOR THEIR FRUITS

For table decoration in winter:

Euphrosyne, small hips in large clusters.
Thalia, small hips in large clusters.
R. rugosa, large hips.

Brenda, one of the Penzance Sweetbriers, is strikingly

effective.

ROSES FOR GREAT MASSES OF FLOWERS

It is impossible to have the best flowers and
the best bush at the same time. If roses are
rown for a big floral display, the bushes or

I46 ROSES

vines are almost sure to be unsightly when
out of bloom. Therefore, the rosarium or
formal rose garden, which is designed for a
big display of double flowers, should be in an
enclosed, out-of-the-way place where it will
not interfere with landscape effects. The
following are excellent for entrances to rose
gardens or hedges surrounding them:

Rosa Mundi (F.), striped red and white.
The Scotch, white to pink.
Mme. Hardy (D.), white.
Persian Yellow (Brier), yellow.
Crimson Rambler (M.), crimson.

R. rugosa, single, pink or white, best for hedges, always

sightly.

Also the stronger growing popular varieties
of the H.P. group as enumerated in the lists
of resistant and town roses.

ROSES FOR "STANDARDS" IN FORMAL GARDENS

The object of "standards" is to break the

low level of the rose beds. They fit formal
gardens only, and are effective for an "ave-
nue" effect on the sides of the principal walks.
As ordinarily grown, standard roses are not
successful in our gardens, as they suffer from
bark scald in summer and they die in winter.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I47

This list includes some roses that are noto-
riously not hardy in the East, but if the stems

are of R. canina and are wrapped in moss in
summer they will do grandly. Then for the
winter dig up the entire plants and bury in
trenches eighteen inches deep.

Reds and Pinks

Souvenir de la Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh.

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), deep red.

Paul Neyron (H.P.), pink.

Prince Camille de Rohan (H.P.), very dark crimson

Reynolds Hole (H.P.), extremely dark crimson.

La France (H.T.), silvery pink.

Yellows and Whites

Gloire de Dijon (T.), pale yellow.
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T.), white.
Madame Falcot (T.), saffron yellow.
Belle Lyonnaise (T.), deep canary yellow
William Allen Richardson (N.), apricot.
Marechal Niel (N.), yellow.

FOR HEAVY CLAY SOILS

All roses like a clayey soil, but the groups
here named are especially suited for very heavy
soil. Such soil should be lightened by plenty-
ful admixture of well-rotted manure. If the
soil is very stiff, the plants would best be on
Manetti stock, when not on own roots. This

I48 ROSES

selection gives a good range of all colours
except yellow.

The Bousalt group.
Damask group.
Hybrid Bourbon group.

ROSES FOR FOREGROUND

Dwarf-growing roses for fronting large beds
or for use in the foreground of shrubbery
orders where a double-purpose garden is
maintained are very useful.

The Scotch (suckers very freely and must have plenty of

room).
Gustave Piganeau (H.P.), eighteen inches to two feet.
Baroness Rothschild (H.P.), eighteen inches to two feet.
Fairy Rose, R. Chinensis, var. minima, known to the

trade as R. Lawrenciana, very dwarf, crimson.
Mme. Norbert Levavasseur (R.H.), very dwarf, crimson.

ROSES IN SPECIAL RELATION TO MILDEW

Resistent Varieties

From notes and records taken at Elizabeth
Park, at Hartford, Conn.:

Glory of Cheshunt (H.P.), crimson.
Comtesse Cecile de Chabrillant (H.P.), pink.
Victor Verdier (H.P.), bright rose.
Eclair (H.P.).

Dr. Andry (H.P.).

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I49

Madame Alfred Carriere (H.P.).
Gloire de Dijon (T.).
Reine Marie Henriette (T.).
Madame Plantier (H.C.).
Philadelphia (R.).
White Bath (Moss).

Particularly Subject to Mildew

The Hybrid Perpetuals as a class may be
said to be liable to mildew:

Captain Christy (H.T.).
Mildred Grant (H.T.).

Helen Keller (H.P.).
Caroline de Sansal (H.P.).
Madame Gabriel Luizet (H.P.).
Jules Margottin, slightly (H.P.).
Etienne Lever, slightly (H.P.).
Eugene Furst (H.P.).

Earl Dufferin (H.P.).
Lady H. Stewart (H.P.).
Marchioness of Lome (H.P.).
Blanche Moreau, badly (Moss).
Crimson Rambler (M.).

THE MOST SWEETLY SCENTED ROSES

As a rule, roses must be either sweetly
scented or large flowered to be really popular,
few famous roses have no appreciable
odour, e. £., Baroness Rothschild, Victor

Verdier, and Captain Christy.

150 ROSES

Medium-sized Flowers

Damask (R. Damascena group), scent leaves petals on

drying; pink and white.
French (R. Gallica group), scent retained on drying; all

colours.
Moss group, white to pink.
Musk group, generally white, a few pink or red; most

fragrant in a still moist atmosphere.
Noisettes, hybrids of the true musk; all colours.

Large Flowered

The Tea group; all are more or less scented with the

characteristic tea odour. They require winter pro-
tection. Gloire de Dijon, yellowish, and Marechal
Niel (really a Noisette), yellow, are especially fragrant.

Hybrid Perpetuals: Paul Verdier, light red; American

Beauty, red; Baron de Bonstetten, dark red; Com-
tesse de Chabrillant, pink; General Jacqueminot,
dark red; Senateur Vaisse, brilliant red.

ROSES FOR CHICAGO

Compiled from Mr. W. C. Egan's reports.
The climate of the lake shore is very trying,
and the experience of years has given the fol-
lowing as the most reliable:

Bedding or Bush Roses

Prince Camille de Rohan (H.P.), deep crimson
Magna Charta (H.P.), bright pink.
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford (H.P.), red.
Capt. Christy (H,T.)> white.

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ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 151

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), red

Mrs. Paul (H.P.), violet-red.

Louis Van Houtte (H.P.). red shaded amaranth

Crested Moss, pink.

Climbers

Seven Sisters (P.), crimson.
Crimson Rambler (M.), bright crimson.
Carmine Pillar (single H.P.), bright crimson
Dawson (R.H.), light pink.

ROSES FOR THE OHIO AND MISSOURI VALLEYS

By a rosarian in Kentucky. This is a
betwixt and between territory, too severe for
the real Southern roses, and yet decidedly
warmer than the regular Eastern section. In
the course of a tour these roses were noted as
thriving best over the widest areas. This list
shows how generally adapted to widely differ-
ent areas are some of the best-known roses
of the East.

Hybrid Perpetuals

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark red.
Charles Lefebvre, bright crimson.
Camille de Rohan deep crimson.

Cluster Roses

Pacquerette (Polyantha Perpetual), pure white, small
Hermosa (Bourbon), deep pink.
Agrippina (Bengal), velvety crimson.

152 ROSES

Tea and Hybrid Tea

La France (H.T.), silvery rose.
Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh.
Clothilde Soupert (T.), rosy carmine.
Duchesse de Brabant (T.), rosy pink.
Homer (T.), blush rose, variable.
Francisca Kruger (T.), coppery yellow.
Marie Van Houtte (H.T.), white tinted yellow
Sombreuil (T.), white, tinged, rose.

ROSES FOR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

From Mr. Ernest Braunton's list. California
is the land where Tea Roses can be grown out-

doors. Its climate is more like that o
southern Europe than the eastern United
States, and almost every kind of rose can be

grown on the Pacific Coast.

Bush

Marie Van Houtte (H.P.).
Maman Cochet (T.).

Lamarque (N.).
Marechal Niel (T.).
Reine Marie Henriette (T.).
Beauty of Glazenwood (C).

Climbers

ROSES FOR OREGON

Roses flourish in this region, and a list of
selections can be regarded only as a guide to
types — an immense number could be cited.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 153

These are selected from reports of Mr. W. S
Sibson, Portland.

Hybrid Teas

La France, pink.

Madame C. Testout, silvery pink.

Viscountess Folkestone, creamy white, salmon centre.

Hybrid Perpetuals

Abel Carriere, very dark colour.

Baron de Bonstetten, very dark.

Capt. Christy, white.

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), crimson.

Gloire Lyonnaise, white.

Marie Baumann, bright crimson.

Ulrich Brunner, bright rose colour.

Victor Verdier, bright rose colour.

Merville de Lyon, very light, white shaded pink

Clio, flesh pink.

ROSES FOR MISSOURI

rom a local correspondent. The climate
is trying and hardiness must be sought. Still
there are surprises in store, as some of the

Teas do well, with protection from frost in
winter, of course.

Hermosa (Bengal), pink.

Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh.

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T.), white.

Madame Caroline Testout (H.T.), silver pink.

Clothilde Soupert (T.), cherry red.

Homer (T.), pink.

154 ROSES

Mme. G. Bruant (Rugosa hybrid), white.
Isabella Sprunt (T.), yellow.
Papa Gontier (T.), rosy crimson.
Marie Baumann (H.P.), bright carmine.
Coquette des Alpes (N.), white shaded rose

TEA ROSES FOR OUTDOOR CULTIVATION IN

NEW JERSEY

List furnished by Mr. James M. Chapman,

Monmouth County, who is able to grow
Hybrid Teas by covering the plants with litter
a foot deep in winter.

Pink and Salmon

Augustine Guinoisseau, flesh pink.
President Carnot, pale pink.
La France, silvery pink.
Pink Maman Cochet.
Bon Silene, rosy salmon.
Mme. Abel Chatenay, salmon.

Red

Souvenir de Wootton, rosy red.
Liberty, glowing deep red.
Baldwin, deep red.
American Beauty, red.

White

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria.
White Maman Cochet.

Buff

Mme. Germaine Trochon
Safrano.

PRAIRIE ROSES ARE UNEQUALLED FOR COVERING

TREE TRUNKS

The Baltimore Belle, a cluster rose of this group, flowers eight months of
the year in California, and under the best conditions grows thirty or forty feet
high at Del Monte. It is equally valuable in the East as a climbing rose on
tree trunks, trellises, posts, etc. Tie or tack the main branches when planting

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I55

ROSES FOR ONTARIO

Captain C. R. Hext, Brantford, grows a
these H.P.'s with slight protection, in order
to insure complete safety, although they are

hardy and grow in the southern part of the
province without protection. After repeated
trials of giving protection with leaves, long
straw, manure, etc., success with Teas is still

lacking.

Alfred Colomb
Anna de Diesbach
Baroness Rothschild

General Jacqueminot

Jules Margottin

Louis van Houtte

Mabel Morrison

Magna Chart a

Marie Baumann

Merveille de Lyon

Paul Neyron

Prince Camille de Rohan

The Prairie Roses, for climbers

ONE HUNDRED GOOD ROSES FOR THE LATI-
TUDE OF NEW YORK

By Commander Aaron Ward. The assort-
ment of one hundred roses named in the
following list includes the leading varieties
found satisfactory in the North, when given

I56 ROSES

the general treatment recommended else-
where in this book. The color division is

rather arbitrary, and in the case of Teas and
Hybrid Teas it indicates merely the principal
or primary colour of the beautiful combina-
tions found in these roses. Single roses,
Luteas, Damasks, Wichuraianas and others
of interest only to the general collector are
intentionally omitted.

BUSH ROSES

White. — Bourbon: K. P. Victoria, Souv.

01 v-

de la Malmaison. Bengal: Ducher.
anthas: Etoile de Mai, Marie Pavie. Rugosa
Blanc Double de Coubert, Mme. G. Bruant

ea: White Mme. Cochet. Hybrid Teas:

Augustine Guinoisseau, E. Wilmot, Inno-

cence, Kaiserin, Mme. T. Combet, Souv.

res. Carnot. Hybrid Perpetuals: Frau K.

Druschki, Margaret Dickson, Merveille de
Lyon.

Pink and White. — Teas: Anna Ollivier,

Comtesse de Turenne. Hybrid Teas: An-

toine Rivoire, Clara Watson, Grace Darling

Lady Clanmorris, Prince de Bulgarie, Vis.

Folkestone. Polyantha: Clothilde Soupert.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I57

Pink. — Teas: Boadicea, G. Nabonnand,

Martian Cochet. Hybrid Teas: Belle Sie-
brecht, Camoens, Ferd. Jamin, Killarney,
Mme. C. Testout, Mme. J. Grolez, Papa

Lambert. Hybrid Perpeiuals: Anna de Dies-
bach, Baron de Rothschild, Mme. Gabriel

Luizet, Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. R. S. Craw-

ford, Paul Neyron. Bourbon': Mrs. Paul.
Rugosa: C. F. Meyer.

Salmon. — Tea: Souv. de C. Guillot (ten-

der). Hybrid Tea: Mme. A. Chatenay.
Bengal: Aurore, Queen Mab (tender).

Bright Red. — Teas: Jules Finger, Souv.

J. B. Guillot (thin). Hybrid Teas: Gruss an
Teplitz. Hybrid Perpetuals: Alfred Colomb,
Comtesse d'Oxford, Eclair, Fisher Holmes,
a France of '89, Mme. Victor Verdier,

Marie Baumann, Ulrich Brunner. Poly-

anthas: Leonie Lamesch, Mme. N. Le-

vavasseur.

Dark Red. — Hybrid Tea: Etoile de France.

Hybrid Perpetuals: G. Lefebvre, E. Furst,
Jean Liabaud, Louis Van Houtte, Prince

C. de Rohan, Souv. de W. Wood, Victor

Hugo.

Light Yellow. — Tea: Marie Van Houtte.

Hybrid Teas: Amateur Teyssier, F. Deegen,

158 ROSES

Mile. H. Cambier, Mme. Pernet Ducher.

Bengal: Frau S. Roeloffs. Polyantha: Perle

d'Or.

Dark Yellow. — Teas: Doctor Grill, Fran-

cisca Kruger. Hybrid Teas: Le Progres,

Mme. H. Leuillot, Mme. Ravary. Benga

Mme. E. Resal. Polyantha: Eugenie La-

esch.

CLIMBERS

White. — Prairie: Baltimore Belle. Po
antha: Thalia.

Bright Red. — Tea: Reine Marie Hen-

riette. Rambler: Crimson Rambler. Noi-
sette: Reine Olga. Hybrid Perpetual: ArcTs

Rover.

Yellow. — Polyantha: Aglaia. Tea: Duch-

esse d'Auerstadt. Noisettes: Bouquet d'Or,

Reve d'Or.

Violet-rose. — Multiflora: Helene.

Carmine and Yellow. — Tea: Souvenir de

Mme. L. Viennot.

Pink. — Bourbon: Climbing Malmaison.

olyantha: Euphrosyne. Prairie: Prairie

Queen.

Salmon Shades. — Tea: Mme. Berard.

Noisette: W. A. Richardson.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I59

ROSES THAT CAN BE EASILY BOUGHT

Of the thousands of roses that have been
introduced to our gardens, a great majority
are not known in the American trade to-day.
Some are not suited to the climate, others are
not sufficiently distinct from some others to

merit a place, or there may be reasons of a

trade nature why certain roses are not offered

to the amateur here. It is of interest to

know just what varieties may be ordered

with a reasonable certainty of having the
order filled without undue delay. The fol-
lowing list is compiled from the catalogues

of wholesale importers and the auction
sales lists. Rose specialists will be able to

supply others not named here, but these
are the roses in best actual demand:

Hybrid Perpetual

Abel Carriere, dark crimson purple.

Alfred Colomb, brilliant crimson.

Baroness de Rothschild, light rose.

Capt. Christy, delicate flesh coloured.

Celine Forestier, rich yellow.

Comtesse Julie de Schulenberg, dark red.

Duke of Edinburgh, very bright, rich scarlet crimson.

Duke of Teck, clear vivid scarlet crimson.

Elizabeth Vigneron, pink.

Emperor, dark crimson, nearly black.

Frau Karl Druschki, snow white.

l60 ROSES

General Jacqueminot, glowing scarlet crimson.

Gloire de Bourg La Reine, dark red.

Gloire de Margottin, red.

Jules Margottin, brilliant glossy pink.

Magna Charta, bright pink.

Marchioness of Lome, rich red, shaded carmine.

Margaret Dickson, pure white.

Marie Baumann, carmine.

M. Boncenne, velvety blackish crimson.

Mrs. John Laing, soft rosy pink.

Mme. Chas. Wood, brilliant red.

Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, clear rose, pink and

pale flesh.
Paul Neyron, deep rose.
Paeonia, light red.

Perle des Blanches, white, pale centre.
Princess de Beam, dark crimson.
Suzanne Marie de Rodocanachi, deep scarlet.
Tom Wood, cherry red.
Ulrich Brunner, cherry red.
Victor Verdier, cherry.
Victor Hugo, brilliant crimson.

TeaSy Hybrid Teas and Noisettes

Amabilis, pink.

Belle Siebrecht, bright rosy pink.

Dr. Grill, coppery yellow, shaded with light yellow.

Duchesse d'Auerstadt, bright golden yellow.

Duchess Hedwig Aremberg, pink, dark centre.

Etoile de Lyon, sulphur.

George Schwartz, dark canary yellow.

Gloire de Lyon, carmine, shaded with amber and cream

Grossherzog Ernest Ludwig, bright red.

G. Nabonnand, light rose yellow.

ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES l6l

Gruss an Teplitz, crimson scarlet.

Helen Gould (Baldwin), rosy crimson.

Jubilee, velvety crimson.

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, white.

L'Innocence, purest milk white.

Maman Cochet, deep flesh colour.

Marie Van Houtte, lemon yellow, edged rose.

Meteor, silvery crimson.

Mme. Abel Chatenay, rosy carmine, shaded with salmon.

Mme. Emil SoufFrain, dark yellow centre, pink outside

and light yellow.
Mme. Francisca Kruger, coppery yellow.
Mme. Jos. Combet, cream white shaded rose.
Mme. Jules Grolez, silver rose, shaded with yellow.
Mme. Lombard, rosy bronze, shaded with carmine.
Mme. Pierre Cochet, yellowish white, centre deep yellow.
Mme. Wagram, saintly rose and rosy flesh, changing to

Chinese red.
Papa Gontier, bright rosy crimson.
Perle des Jardins, pale yellow.
President Carnot, bright rose.
Princess de Sagan, velvety crimson.
Queen's Scarlet, rich velvety scarlet.
Souvenir de Catherine Guilot, coppery orange red,

yellow base.
Souvenir de la Malmaison, rich flesh colour.
Souvenir de Wootton, rich velvety red.
Viscountess Folkestone, creamy pink, centre salmon.
W. A. Richardson, deep orange yellow.
White Maman Cochet, white.

Climbing Roses

Aglaia, the yellow Rambler.
Baltimore Belle, double white.

l62 ROSES

Clothilde Soupert, white.
Euphrosyne, pink Rambler.
Helene, light rose.
Jules Margottin.

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria.

La France.

Meteor.

Prairie Queen, pink.

Pysche, pink.

Thalia, white Rambler.

Zepherine Drouet, practically thornless rose, beautiful

pink.

Sweetbner Roses

Amy Robsart, deep rose.

Edith Bellenden, pale rose.

Flora Mclvor, white tinged with rose.

Green Mantle, pink, white centre.

Lady Penzance, coppery, tinted yellow.

Lord Penzance, fawn colour.

Lucy Pertram, deep crimson, white centre.

Meg Merrilies, crimson.

Rose Bradwardine, clear rose.

Bengal or Monthly Roses

Agrippina, red.
Fellemberg, red.

Hermosa, pink.

Moss Roses

Blanche Moreau, pure white.
Captain Ingram, rich crimson.
Chapeau de Napoleon, red.
Comtesse de Murinais.
Crested Moss, pale rosy pink.
Crimson Globe, dark carmine red

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ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 163

Doctor Berthier, brilliant cherry red
Glory of Mosses, carmine rose.
Madame Moreau, red vermilion.
Madame William Paul, clear rosy*
Red Moss, red.
Salet, vivid rose.
White Moss, white.
White Perpetual, white.

Polyantba Roses

Clothilde Soupert, ivory white, shaded with silvery

rose.
Gloire de Polyantha, citron rose, pale carmine.
Marie Pavie, creamy white, edged with carmine rose.
Mosella, chrome yellow.
Mignonette, clear pink, passing to white.
Pacquerette, small, pure white.
Perle de Rouge, velvety crimson.
Red Pet, red.
White Pet, white.

Rugosa Roses

Double Red Rugosa.
Double White Rugosa.
Mme. Georges Bruant, white.
Single Red Rugosa.
Single White Rugosa.

American .Hybrid Ramblers

Dorothy Perkins, pink.
Evergreen Gem, creamy white.
Philadelphia, like Crimson Rambler.
Pink Roamer, pink, silvery white centre.
South Orange Perfection, rosy blush.
Universal Favorite, rose colour.

164 ROSES

European Hybrid Ramblers

Adelaide Moulle, pink.

Alberis Barbier, canary yellow.

Auguste Barbier, pink.

Edouard Proust, flesh colour.

Electra, double yellow.

Elisa Robichon, free flowering, rose yellow shades.

Francois Foucard, yellowish white.

Paul Transon, double rose coloured.

Queen Alexandra, very free flowering, semi-double, red

flowers. Like the Crimson Rambler*
Rubin, dark red.

> \ 1 \

* 1

CHAPTER IX

Roses of American Origin

America has contributed comparatively
few roses to the great list of varieties popularly
nown to-day. Yet two important groups
are credited to us. About the year 1814 the

first of the Noisette class was raised — a class

that has in it some of the most pleasing of
all cluster roses. John Champney of Charles-
ton, South Carolina, fertilised the White
Musk with pollen from the Blush China,
which was named Champney's Pink Cluster.
Charleston florist raised a seedling from
this which he sent to his brother in France —
ouis Noisette — about 18 17. From this be-

ginning the charming class of Noisettes

(which properly, however, should have been
called Champney Roses) was raised and
distributed. The modern members of this
group having a large admixture of Tea in
them are not quite hardy. Some of the
greatest of the yellow roses are of this section,

165

166 ROSES

including Marechal Niel and Chromatella.

From that one notable beginning little
was done until quite recently, when the
immense possibilities of the multiflora group
(as exemplified in Crimson Rambler) and
Rosa Wichuraiana gave a new impetus to
rose production in America. We are to-day
only beginning to realise the development
in this group, which bids fair to be one
characteristically American. These varieties
answer the requirements of the average
American garden better than many other
plants, and though not roses of the older

type, which will always be grown for cut
flowers, still they are roses and fill a place in
the garden and about the porch that no other
plants have done so far.

WHAT THE RAMBLER AND MEMORIAL ROSES

HAVE GIVEN US IN TEN YEARS

In 1893 the Wichuraiana Rose was first in-
troduced into this country from Japan, by Mr.
Jackson Dawson, and since then has steadily
grown in favour for the several purposes

to which it is so well adapted. It is a most
interesting species, being hardy, pure white

ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 167

single flowers, and resplendent green foliage.
It has proved a valuable variety for hybridis-
ing purposes, and from this plant as a seed-
bearing parent several hybridists procured
new varieties of the highest merit.

The Crimson Rambler, from Japan, was
also introduced in 1893, and it is safe to say

that more plants of this variety have been

than of any other rose for outdoor

cultivation. As a parent it has produced
some varieties of the highest merit.

These roses may be grown as ground
roses if so desired, or they may be trained as
climbers for porches, trellises, archways or
specimens on rustic posts. They grow vigor-

ously in ordinary soils well enriched with
manure, and are seemingly very free from
attacks of insects.

ne of the most progressive of modern
hybridists is Mr. Walsh, of Woods Hole,
Mass., who has given these:

Debutante (Wichuraiana and Baroness
Rothschild), with double flowers two and one-
quarter inches in diameter, pink, fragrant;

September until frost; a desirable acquisition

to the climbing roses. It is perfectly hardy.

Sweetheart (Wichuraiana and Bridesmaid)

168 ROSES

has flowers double, borne in clusters, hanging
gracefully. The flowering season continues
for six weeks, and some flowers may be seen

until frost. This may be classed as a semi-
evergreen variety, since the foliage remains

on the stems until February and the small
shoots retain their leaves the whole year.

Minnehaha (Wichuraiana and Paul Ney

ron) has dark rose flowers, borne on large
trusses on long, stout stems. The foliage is
light glossy green, hardy.

Evangeline, has flowers two inches across,
single, pure white.

ady Gay (Wichuraiana and Bardou Job)

experts have pronounced to be the best o
Mr. Walsh's hybrids. The colour is a

combination of cherry pink, touched with
vermilion, fading to pure white. It produces
canes twelve to fifteen feet in length in one

season, and so is admirably suited for
trellises, porches, pergolas, etc. This is a
fine forcing rose for Easter decoration.

Hiawatha (Wichuraiana hybrid), is very
floriferous; a bright crimson single flower, the
base of petals white.

Wedding Bells, a seedling from Crimson
Rambler, is most floriferous. Some plants

ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 169

in eight-inch pots at this writing have
actual count 300 flower buds on a plant.
This is very distinct in foliage, a very light
green colour with soft woolly texture, mid-
ribs of leaves bright red. The flower is pink
in the upper half of petal, white below; semi-
double.

W. A. Manda, South Orange, New Jersey,
introduced in 1897 and 1899 a number
of very distinct climbing roses, with R.
Wichuraiana as one parent. They are prac-
tically evergreen.

vergreen Gem, colour buff, changing to
almost white, sweetbrier perfume.

Jersey Beauty, pale yellow, large single
flowers, with bright yellow stamen, very
striking.

Manda s Triumph, double white, flowering
in clusters, sweet scented.

Pink Roamer, bright pink.

South Orange Perfection, white, tipped with

pink.

Universal Favourite, double pink flowers,
very fragrant.

Mr. Jackson Dawson, Arnold Arboretum,

Boston, Mass., has also produced some
splendid varieties, raised from the Wichurai-

170 ROSES

ana, among them the Dawson, vigorous
grower, branches covered with double pink
flowers.

The Farquhar, sent out in 1903 by R. and
. Farquhar, is a grand variety, bright pink
flowers, shiny foliage, a Wichuraiana hybrid,
suitable for climbing or as a ground rose.

W. H. Egan, another of the Dawson

hybrids, was raised from R. rugosa. It has

double pink flowers in clusters. The bush
is compact, foliage moderately glossy and

very free from insects. Always in flower.

The Jackson Perkins Company intro-

duced Dorothy Perkins in 1903; it is pink

shading to white, and can be described as a
pink Rambler.

THE MIDDLE ERA

The time between the two famous groups
named above was bridged by a number o

roses of various types, important in their
day, and of which there is definite record as
follows :

Belle Americaine, raised by Daniel Boll,

of New York, in 1837, and also Mme. Boll,
H. R., a grand rose and a favourite to-day
with many.

ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 171

Cornelia Cook, very large, pure white Tea,
for years the favorite white for forcing, raised
by Anthony Cook, of Baltimore, Md\, in 1855.

nna Maria, Superba, Mme. Caroline

Allen, Baltimore Bell and Queen of the

Prairies, all raised by the late Mr. Feast, of
Baltimore, in 1843. The two last-named

varieties are well known by the people at

large as hardy climbers suitable for almost
any climate and position. Many million
plants of these are now in general cultivation
in every section of this country.

Harisons Yellow, raised by the Rev.

Harison, New York, in 1830, is well known
as a lovely colour when in bloom, and as
hardy as an oak tree.

Beauty of Greenmount, I 854 ; Dr. Kane, 1 856,

and Geo. Peabody, 1857, all raised by Jas.
Pentland, of Baltimore.

Mrs. Hovey and Triumphant, 1850, two
good pillar varieties, raised by Joshua Pierce,
Washington, D. C.

ames Sprunt, Bengal, 1858, and Isabella

Sprunt, Yellow Tea, 1865, two good varieties

for many years; very popular; both raised by

Rev. James Sprunt, Kenansville, N. C.

Mrs. Degraw, Bourbon, a grand summer

172 ROSES

bedding variety, raised by Wm. Burgess,
Glen Cove, L. L, 1885.

Marshall P. Wilder, H. R., a very beautiful
variety and one of the best of its class, raised
and introduced by Ellwanger & Barry,
Rochester, N. Y., 1885, and Rosalie, another
gem, by the same firm in 1884.

Golden Gate, Tea, by Mr. Jones, of New
Orleans, about 1888.

merican Beauty. Though not an Amer-
ican variety, yet the credit of bringing it into
popularity is due to the energy and foresight

of one firm in this country, Messrs. Field

Bros., of Washington, D. C; the correct
name of this rose is Mme. Ferdinand Jamain;

raised in France but of no particular value
there.

merica (Noisette), raised by C. G. Page,
1859, a very nice climber but not quite hardy.

Peter Henderson & Co. have introduced
some very beautiful varieties — they are:

Setina, 1859, a sport from Hermosa, o
climbing habit and not as widely planted as
its merits deserve.

merican Banner, 1879, a striped form of

Bon Silene, of no great value, except as a
novelty.

Roses of various types planted freely with herbaceous perennials make a gorgeous

show of colour in June, and the general effect is pretty

ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 1 73

Sunset, Tea, 1883, a sport from Perle des
Jardins and an acquisition to our list o

forcing roses, being of a rich salmon shade
of orange.

Dinsmore, H. R., 1886, very similar to
Mme. Chas. Wood, but a better constitution;
a free, continuous, blooming variety for sum-
mer bedding.

Ruby Gold, Tea, 1892, raised by Mr. T.

O'Connor, of Providence, R. I.; it has an
interesting history. Mr. O'Connor grafted
Catherine Mermet on Marechal Niel, and
it was from this graft that the sport was

obtained.

ubilee, H. P., 1897, raised by Mr. M. H.

Walsh, of Woods Hole, Mass., from seed
of Victor Hugo X Prince Camille de Rohan.
s brilliant flaming crimson, with maroon

shading and large size ranks it among the
most distinct of its class.

Mr. John Cook, of Baltimore, Md., has
given us some really good roses in

ouvenir de Wootton, 1888, seedling o
Louis Van Houtte X Bon Silene, a very
valuable rose, deliciously sweet, of large size,
bright cherry crimson, very free flowering.

Marion Dingee, 1892, seedling of Duchess

174 ROSES

of Edinburgh X Caserta, a valuable bedding
rose, very free and good, bright glowing red.

Mrs. Robert Garrett, 1896, seedling of

Mme. C. Testout X Sombreuil, pale pink,
very large flower and very free — a noble rose.

White Cochet, 1896, sport from Maman
Cochet, and one of the most valuable roses
ever introduced for summer use.

The following were introduced by John N.
May, of Summit, N. J.:

The Bride, 1885, a white sport from Cathe-
rine Mermet, and the most beautiful white
rose ever introduced.

righton Beauty, 1 89 1, bright red, very

free flowering; as a bedding rose very desirable.

Mrs. W. C. Whitney, 1894, H. T., beautiful

clear deep pink, and the sweetest perfume of

any known rose.

Mrs. Pierpont Morgan, 1895, sport from

Mme. Cusin, deeper in colour and very much
larger, very sweet scented.

Mrs. Oliver Ames, 1902, sport from Mme.

Cusin, lighter than Mrs. Pierpont Morgan —
a very prettily shaded rose.

Bridesmaid. F. L. Moore, Chatham, N. J.,
introduced 1892, a sport from C. Mermet, and
the most valuable pink rose in commerce to-day.

ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 1 75

Climbing Perle, 1 890, by John Henderson,

Flushing, N. Y., very valuable yellow climber.

Pearl Rivers, 1 890, by Dingee & Conard,

West Grove, Pa., large ivory white, nice
form.

ainbow, 1 89 1, by John Sievers, San

Francisco, Cal., striped white and red, a
valuable bedding rose, sport from Papa
Gontier.

Viclzs Caprice, 1889, by James Vick, of

Rochester, N. Y., a sport from Archduchesse
d' Autriche, variegated pink and white, large
size and free.

Waban, 1891, by E. M. Wood & Co.,

Natick, Mass., another sport from C. Mer-
met, but superseded by. Bridesmaid.

Maid of Honour, 1899, by Hoffmeister,

Cincinnati, O., very similar to the last
named; also a sport from same variety.

Admiral Dewey, by John H. Taylor, 1899,
a very beautiful flesh-coloured sport of
Caroline Testout.

Dorothea, 1898, by Mr. John H.

Dunlop, Toronto, Canada, a lovely rose,

ground colour similar to Safrano, with

delicate pink shading, large size, and very
free flowering.

176 ROSES

RECENT ROSES

Philip Breitmeyer's Sons in 1903 introduced:

a Detroit, fiery pink, lighting up well at

night. Very strong grower and a large bud.

Urania, 1905, by Walsh, is a hardy ever-
blooming rose; vigorous grower, strong, stout
stems, colour bright scarlet crimson. Cup-
shaped flowers. Seedling from American
Beauty.

Wellesley, a Hybrid Tea raised by Alex.

Montgomery, 1904. A rose for forcing;
rich pink, large flower.

Richmond (Hybrid Tea), raised by the
E. G. Hill Co., is a competitor of Liberty;
hardy.

rcadia and Babette are Wichuraiana

hybrids of Walsh, quite new. The former?
remarkable in the double crimson scarlet
varieties, and the latter a double rose-coloured
variety of the Rambler type.

Doctor Van Fleet, of Little Silver, N. J., is
credited with these:

Ruby Queen, Wichuraiana X Queen Scarlet,
vigorous, hardy, bright, shining foliage; flowers
quite double, three inches across, bright ruby
red with clear white centre (1897).

■■■ * ▼

•

; .
-

Rosa setigera, one of the native species, is well adapted for the wild garden.

It is one of the parents of the Prairie Roses

ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN I77

May Queen, Wichuraiana X Mme. Degraw.
Very vigorous, canes ten to twenty feet long,

flowers very large and double; clear bright

pink (1897).

Pearl Queen, Wichuraiana X Mme. Degraw.
Vigorous grower, long canes and large
foliage; flowers large and very double; pure
white with blush centre (1897).

Clara Barton, Clothilde Soupert X American
Beauty. Very dwarf, ever-blooming; flowers
three and one-half inches across, very double
and perfect, highly perfumed, each bloom
set in a perfect rosette of green leaves (1898).

New Century, Clothilde Soupert X R.
rugosa alba. Entirely hardy, fine rugosa
foliage; flowers three to four inches across,
very double, clear light pink with bright red
centre, borne in clusters throughout summer;
very fragrant (1902).

Sir Thomas Ltpton, Clothilde Soupert X R.
rugosa alba. Similar to New Century but
longer foliage; flowers very double, pure white
and exceedingly fragrant. Opens out flat
like a camellia (1904).

Magnafrano, Safrano X Magna Charta.
Vigorous and constant blooming; flowers on
long stems, four to five inches across, double

I78 ROSES

and perfect; fine buds, bright rich crimson

with scarlet shade. A magnificent forcing
rose (1898).

Philadelphia, Crimson Rambler X Victor
Hugo. A duplicate of Crimson Rambler but
rather more stocky in growth; flowers larger,

more double, brighter crimson, ten days

earlier, and better finished in every way.
Foliage more resistant to disease; forces
splendidly. Will probably supersede its
parent in time (1903).

Of these last roses it is not possible to do
more than accord a mere mention, as their
actual merits are not yet determined. There
have been a number of other roses raised in

America, even named and introduced to
commerce, but they as quickly passed away.

These have been ignored in the present list;
the object being rather to demonstrate what
as really been achieved by the American

rose growers. Now, much more will un-
doubtedly be done in the future, especially
along two lines, namely: (1) Forcing va-
rieties for cut flowers under glass in winter,

and (2) hardy garden roses of the modern
types, and other than the Hybrid Perpetual,
Hybrid Tea, Noisette and Tea groups.

INDEX

Air and water, relations

of, 88.
Alba group, the, 112.
Alpine group, the, 112.
American Beauty, under

glass, 76, 77, 102.
American roses, list of

best, 165.

Animal manures com-
pared, 31.

Anthracnose, 61.

Aphis, remedies for, 49.

April pruning for tender

roses, 35.
Arsenate of lead solution,

66.
Austrian Brier group, the,

114.
Autumn flower of H. P

how to induce, 26.
planting, 19.
pruning, 41.
severe, bad results of,

41.
under glass, 89.
Ayrshire group, the, 112.

Banks, varieties for, 139
Banksia group, the, 113
pruning, 46.

Bark louse, the, 50.
Beds, edgings for, 10.

lower than adjacent
surface, 9.

on the lawn, making, 8.

sizes for, 6.
when to make, 6.
Benches, filling with soil,

82.
quantity of soil for, 77.
size of, 109.
vs. solid beds, 77.
Bengal group, the, 113.

pruning, 46.
Black speck, 64.

how to avoid, 94.
spot disease, 51.
Bloom, to be cut, 25.

periods of, 120.
Bone meal for the com-
post heap, 80.
Bottom heat for cuttings,

103.
Bourbon group, the, 113.

pruning, 39.
Boursalt group, the, 112.
Boutonnieres, varieties

for, 144.
Brier group, the, 114.

pruning, 44

179

i8o

INDEX

Brier group, suckers, 23.

how to tell, 15, 18.
Budded roses, experiment

with, 16.
objections to, 16.
planting, 18.
vs. own-root plants, 14,

16.
Buds, malformed, varie-
ties having, 26.

Climbers, time of flower-
ing, 122.

Cloudy weather, manag-
ing the house in, 85.

Colour best on clay soil,

81.

Compost

heap,

spring

California,

Southern,

roses for, 152.
Carnations grown with

roses, 92.
Carrying over, 95.
solid beds for, 77.

treatment of, 79.

Composting rose soil, 79.

Copper carbonate, for-
mula for, 52.

Cost of a house, 75.

Covering tender roses for

winter, 29.

Cow manure for com-
posting, 79. ^
the best fertiliser, 31.

Cherokee, rose, pruning, Crimson Rambler as a

46.
Chicago, roses for, 1 50.
China group, the, 113.

pruning, 46.
Christmas, varieties for,

143-
City gardens, varieties

for, 135.
Classification of roses,

practical, no.

Clay soil improves colour,

81.

varieties for, 147.

and

varieties,

Climate

128.
Climbers, pruning, 40, 43.
distance to plant, 122.
time for establishing,
122.

stock, 17.
Cultivation, deep,

not

good,

22.

time for, 23.

under glass, depth for,

87.
Cultural needs by groups,

112.

Cut flowers, varieties for,

142.
Cutting and pruning at

same time, 105.
Cutting-bench, the, 97.
Cuttings, how to make,

33, 97-
plants, setting out, 34.

propagation from, 97,

rooted, shifting on, 99

rooting, 33.

INDEX

181

Cuttings, time for root-
ing, 99, 103.

Damask group, the, 115.
Depth to cultivate, 22.

to plant, 13.
Disbudding, 26.
under glass, 105.
when to avoid, 27.
Diseases, fungous, etc.,

described, 51.
Disinfecting the benches,

84, 108.
Distance apart for Amer-
ican Beauty, 105.
to plant in beds,
under glass, 8^.
Dormant planting of ten-
der roses unsafe, 12.
Downy mildew, 58.
Drainage, essential, 5.

how to provide, 6.
Drying off potted plants,

101.

Easter, varieties for, 143.
Edging walks, varieties

for, 137.
Edgings for beds, 10.
Eel worm, 97.
English and American

comparisons, 14, 17.
Established plants more

hardy,

12.

Evergreen group, the,

116.
Exposure for rose garden,

best, 3.

February time to prune,

35-
Fertiliser added to com-
post, 80.
formula, Prof. Stuart's,

95-
formulas, 31, 32.

Fertilisers, 30.
for amateurs' use under

glass, 95.
when to apply, 31, 32.
Field-grown plants pre-
ferred, 123.
Filling the benches, 82.
Firming the soil, 19.
Flower characters of gar-
den groups, 112.
Flowers, faded, to be

removed, 26.
fine specimen, disbud-
ding for, 26.
specimen, growing for,

130.
time for cutting, 25.
Foliage features of gar-
den groups, 112.
Forced roses, great de-

mand for, 73.
Forcing under

glass,

Even-span house, advan- Foreground planting, va-

tages of, 74

rieties for, 148.

1 82

INDEX

Fork better than spade,

22.

used for levelling, 82.

French group, the, 115.

Frost in relation to situa-
tion, 4.

Fruits, roses having deco-
rative, 145.

Fumigation by sulphur,

84, 108.

Garden

roses, recom-

mended, 131.
Griffiths, Dr., fertiliser

formula by, 32.
Ground bone as fertiliser,

31-

Groups of garden roses,

no.
Growth, beginning of, 22.

Habit of growth of gar-

den groups,

112.

Half-climbing roses, prun-
ing, 43-
Hardiest races, the, 122.

Hardiness of budded and

own-root roses, 16.

Heating equipment neces-
sary, 75.

for a mixed house, 90.
pipes, disposition of,

77.

Hellebore decoction, for-
mula for, 48.

Hillside, cost of house for,

74-

Houses for rose forcing,

74.
Huey, Dr. R., on budded

stock, 28.

on protection, 28.

selections by, 131.

Humus wanted in rose

soils, 9.

Hybrid China group, the,

Hybrid French group, the,

115-

Hybrid Perpetual group,

the, 116, 129.
Hybrid Perpetuals, dis-
tance for planting, 7.

inducing autumn flower
in, 26.

in pots, 101.

protected in cold re-
gions, 30.

pruning, 39, 42.

soil for, 9.
Hybrid Tea group, the,

117.

pruning, 42.

pruning, time for, 39.

Ideal rose, unattainable,

127.
site for rose garden, 3.
Insect pests described, 47.
Insects do slight damage,

in greenhouses, killing,

85.

water for, 25.

INDEX

183

Iron sulphate as a fer-
tiliser, 32.
Iron vs. wood house, 75.

Key to garden groups

in.

Kerosene emulsion for

mildew, 58.

Late planting injured by

sun, 20.
Leaf blight, 53.
Leaf -cutter bee, 51.
Leaf hopper, the, 49.
Leaf spot, 63.

Manure, rotted for com

posting, 79.
liquid, 24.
liquid, for plants under

glass, 93, 94.
liquid, for potted

plants, 100.
liquid, how to use, 24.
where to put it, 10.
Manuring under glass,

93-
Masses of flower, varieties

for, 145.

Mica added to light soils,

81.

Levelling after planting, Mildew, 54

soil in benches, 82.
Lime for the compost

heap, 80.

Lime-sulphur-salt wash,

colouring for, 5 1 .

Lime wash, hot, formula

for, 84.

and lime wash, 85.
prevention of, 88.

sulphur for, 107.

varieties liable to and
resistent, 148.
Missouri, roses for, 153.
Monthly rose group, the,

Locality and soil rela- Moss roses, pruning, 42.

tions, 78.
Long Island, protection

in, 28.
Low ground and frost, 4.

Manetti suckers, 24.

suckers, how to tell, 15.

Manure, fresh, for com-
posting, 79.

for beds must be old,

10.
for new beds, 6.

Mulch, object of, 27.
removing in autumn,

27.
summer, 27.
Mulching American

Beauty, 106.
potted plants, 100, 101.
under glass, 93.
under glass in spring,

94.
Multiflora group

117.

the,

184

INDEX

Musk group, the, 118.

Native roses, pruning, 45.
New Jersey, tender roses

154

Newly arrived

plants,

handling, 11, 13.

New York, one hundred

good roses for, 155.

Nitrate of soda as fer-
tiliser, 31.

Noisette group, the, 118.

Ohio and Missouri val-
leys, roses for, 151.
Ontario, roses for, 155.
Oregon, roses for, 152.

Planting, depth for, 13.

evils of wrong, 13.

from pots, 19, 83.

in benches, distances
. for, 8s.

time for, 1 1 .

under glass, 81.
Plants, new, handling,
Plunging potted plants,

11.

101

Potassium sulphide solu-
tion, 66.

Pot-grown plants, setting

out, 20.
Potted plants, drying off,

101.
management of, 100.
Potting on young plants,

99.
Prairie groups, the, 118.
Paris green, how to use, I Prickles, character of in

Own-root

vs.

budded

stock, 14, 16.

48.
Pasture soils, comparison

of, 80.
Paths, grass or cinders

for, 7.
Penzance group, the, 114.
Philadelphia, protection

in, 28.
roses for, 131.
Pillar roses, protection

for, 30.
varieties, 140.
Pit for dormant roses, 12.
Planting, 13.
a row, 14.
budded plants, 18.

garden groups, 112.
Propagating house tem-
peratures, 98.

Propagation, t>^ 97-
Protection for new plants,

12.

for newly planted ten-
der roses, 13.

for pillar roses, 30.

for standard plants, 30.

for winter, 28.

from spring thaws, 30.

removing, 29.

roses requiring, 28.

winter, 27.
Provence group, the, ii8„

INDEX

185

Provence group, pruning,

42.
Pruning after autumn

planting, 19.

autumn, 41.

autumn -set plants, 35.

bad for some varieties,

37-
Bourbons, 39.

climbers, 40.

directions, by groups,

112.

for carrying over, 96.

for large flowers, 37.

for quality, 38.

for quantity, 37.

how to do, 37.

H. T. and T., time for,

39-
potted H. P.'s, 101.

potted Teas, 101.

Rugosas, 40. j

rules for by classes,
42.

strong-growing varie-
ties, 37.

Raisers and introducers,

American, 165.

Rambler and Memorial

roses of ten years,

166.
Rambler group, the, 117.
Rosarian's calendar, a,

69.
Rose beetle, the, 47.

Rose

garden

possible

everywhere, 126.
garden, where to make

a, 3.

slug, the, 48.

Roses, as plants or flowers,

124, 130.
decorative in

den, 124.
easy to grow, 5.
for warm light soils, 10.
grown with carnations,

the

gar-

of the future, 128.
recent, 176.
under glass, 72.
varied uses for, 124.

tender roses, time for, Rot due to deep planting,

35-

14.

weak-growing varieties, Routine of work, 22

40.
when best done, 35.
while gathering flowers,

25, 105.

with

37-

definite

views,

Purchase or grow young

stock? 97.

Rugosa group, the, 119
how to plant, 121.
pruning, 40.

Rust disease, 59.

Sand for cuttings, 98.
Sandy soil, varieties for,

141.

1 86

INDEX

Scale insects, 50.
Scotch Rose group, the,

114.
pruning, 45^

Seaside, varieties for, 141.

Seasons of flowering, 1 20.

Selection for special pur-
poses (see under va-
rieties) .

Sempervirens group, the,

116.

Setting out cutting plants,

34-
Settling of bed, allow for,

Shade for cuttings, 103.
Shallow planting, effects

of, 14.
Sheep manure for liquid,

94.
Shrubbery, varieties for,

137-
Site for rose garden, ideal,

3-
should be new, 5.

Soil

adaptations
groups, 112.

depth of, in benches,
depth of, in solid beds,

78.

for American Beauty,

104.
for different classes, 9.
for greenhouse, 78.
for rose beds, 5.
for young roses, 103.

Soil, heavy, roses for, 81.
light, roses for, 81.
preferences of varieties,

81.
rich, importance of, 78.
Solid beds, filling, 78.

vs. benches, 77.
Soot, soft coal, injury

from, 25.

South, roses for the, 129.

Spade, when to use, 80.

Spraying calendar, out-
doors, 66.

Spring vs. fall planting,

12.

Stakes, when necessary,

38.

when unnecessary, 39.
Staking sometimes neces-
sary, 21.
Standards, difficulties at-
tending, 126.
protected by burying,

3°-
purposes of, 130.

varieties for 146.

Starting up H.P.'s in pots,

101.

Teas in pots, 100.
Stock, Manetti vs. brier,

17-
the best, 17.

Streamers, when to cut

back, 35.
Suckers, due to shallow

planting, 16.
how to know, 15.

INDEX

187

Suckers, how to remove,

23-
how to treat, 15.

told by their foliage, 23.

where to look for, 23.
Sulphur, burning, 84, 108.

for mildew, SSy 107.
Sunshine a necessity, 3.

Sweetbrier group

the,

114.

Sweetly scented varieties,

Syringing, 106.
carried-over plants, 96.
for healthy foliage, 24.
in the greenhouse, 84,
88.

Tea group, the, 119, 129.
Teas and Hybrid Teas,

distance for plant-
ing, 8.
hybrid, etc., soil for, 10.
in pots, 100.
pruning, 39, 46.
Temperature, and varie-
ties, 91.
for American Beauty,

106.
for plants in pots, 100,

102.
for propagating house,

98.
under glass, 87, 88.
under glass, autumn,
89.
Tender roses, pruning, 46.

Three-quarter-span

house, advantages of,

74-
Thrips (see leaf hopper).

Time of bloom, 120.

Tobacco smoke for aphis,

107.

Tonk's fertiliser formula,

32-
Tools for cultivating, 23.

Trailing roses, pruning,

44.

Tree

roots, protection

from, 5.
rob roses, 4.

Vacation homes, roses

for, 134.
Varieties and tempera-
tures, 91.
easily bought, 159.
for a mixed house, 90.
mildew, resistent, 148.
mildew, susceptible,

149.
of American
165.

origin

sweetly scented, 149.

the best, 131.
Variety selections:

for banks, 139.
' boutonnieres, 144
' cemeteries, 140.
1 Chicago, 150.
' Christmas, 143.
1 city gardens, 135
' clay soils, 147.

i88

INDEX

Variety selections:

for cut flowers in win-
ter, 142.

Easter, 143.

edging walks, 137.

foreground, 148.

fruit effects, 145.

greenhouse cut
flowers, 142.

greenhouse decora-
tion, 144.

heavy soils, 147.

masses of flower,

145-

Missouri, 153.

New Jersey, 154.

New

York,

one

hundred, 155.
Ohio and Missouri

valleys, 151.

Ontario, 155.

Oregon, 152.

pillars, 140.

rose garden, 131.

sandy soils, 141.

seaside, 141.

shrubbery, 137.

Southern Califor-
nia, 152.

standards, 146.

steep banks, 139.

vacation

134.
verandas, 140.

wild garden, 138.

winter cut flowers,

142.

homes,

Ventilating the house, 85,
Ventilation, 84.

for

potted

plants,

100.

in autumn, 89.

Verandas, varieties for,

140.

Ward, Com., selection by,

155-
Ward's, Com., protection,

28.
Water as insecticide, 50.
for aphis and red spi-
der, 25.
Watering after planting

in greenhouse, 83.
American Beauty, 105.
before planting, 20.
cuttings, 98.
dormant plants, 12.
over mulch, 27.
under glass, 85.
Whale-oil soap solution,

66.
When and how to spray,

the,

66.
White rose group,

112.
Wichuraiana group, the,

120.

Wild garden, varieties for,

138.
Wild roses, pruning, 45.
Winds, must protect

from, 4.

INDEX

189

•

flower, varieties I Wood vs. iron house,

for, 142.
protection (see prote*.

Wire supports for plant

under g

108

75-

Young plants, potting on,

99.

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